CAS S'EJXjL/ ^ 
 DICTIONAECf 
 
 OF 
 
 GOOKEK 
 
 -:;4-:^---^tT-.ut=^^m^ 
 
LIBRARY OF THE 
 NEW YORK STATE COLLEGE 
 OF HOME ECONOMICS 
 
 CORNELL UNlVERSITir 
 ITHACA, NEW YORK 
 
Cornell University 
 Library 
 
 The original of this book is in 
 the Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/cletails/cu31924003567728 
 
CASSELL'S NEW 
 
 DICTIONARY OF 
 COOKERY 
 
 Containing about Ten Tliousand Recipes 
 
 With Coloured Plates and Numerous Illustrations in 
 Black and White 
 
 GASSELL AND COMPANY, LTD 
 
 London, New York, Toronto and Melbourne 
 
All- KIQHTS RF.SEKVEP 
 
PREFACE 
 
 THE aft of Cookery is every day receiving increased attention ; and no 
 wonder. Life is made all the brighter by satisfactory feeding ; and he 
 is a dull philosopher who despises a good dinner. The pleasures of the 
 table are enjoyed by us more than a thousand times every year, and 
 whoever thoroughly realises that fact will need neither argument nor eloquence to 
 persuade him to an experimental acquaintance with all possible cooking processes 
 and all possible recipes. 
 
 But the strong point of good cookery is not its gratification of the palate, but 
 its influence on health. This is a matter of far greater importance than is generally 
 thought. It is no exaggeration to say that the explanation of many fatal disorders 
 is to be found in nothing but badly-cooked and ill-assorted viands. Our households 
 would enjoy better health, and be better able to withstand sickness when it came, 
 if pains were only taken to have food well chosen and properly made ready. Every 
 housekeeper, then, will give the subject of eating and drinking a prominent place in 
 her daily round of duties. 
 
 The practical part of the following work has been preceded by a complete treatise 
 on the " Principles of Cookery." This has been written by a gentleman in every 
 way entitled to speak with authority, thus making our Dictionary a marked contrast 
 to many publications of a similar kind. " Too many," says a distinguished cfe/, 
 " who have presumed to write upon the art and science of Cookery are far from 
 possessing any real or adequate knowledge of what they so recklessly attempt to 
 teach." By reading these " Principles of Cookery " the cook will become possessed 
 of the whole alphabet of her art. 
 
 In the arrangement of the recipes the dictionary form has been chosen as the most 
 convenient. Cross-references have been inserted where they were needed, and it 
 is believed that any article in the work may be found without difficulty and at a 
 moment's notice. 
 
 The work is in every respect thoroughly up to date, and it includes the most 
 approved recipes of some of the most famous modern chefs. The intrinsic excellence 
 of the recipes will commend them to every judge of good cookery, and the clear and 
 explicit instructions given places their preparation within the capacity of any ordinary 
 cook. They have all been tried and tested, and have been chosen with a view to the 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 various requirements of English households. No branch of cookery has been ignored^ 
 and not only everyday fare, but fare for special occasions, has been included. 
 
 In view of the fact that Paper-Bag Cookery has been so much to the fore, the 
 chapter dealing with that subject will be of especial interest. It treats of the practical 
 side of the subject, telling of a housewife's own experiences in the art of cooking in 
 paper bags. 
 
 Among the other subjects that have received special notice are : — The Cooking 
 of Australian and New Zealand Meat, Invahd Cookery, Marketing, the Care and 
 Management of Kitchen Ranges, Cooking by Gas, Table Decoration and Service, the 
 Store-room and Larder, and Chafing-dish Cookery. , A very full Glossary of Terms 
 used in Cookery is given, and a Classified Index will be found at the end of the book, 
 which adds materially to its value as a work of reference. 
 
 The numerous illustrations, both in colour and black and white, have been pre- 
 pared at the National Society's Training College, Berridge House, Hampstead, to 
 the Principal of which we tender our grateful acknowledgments of the courtesy and 
 assistance which have been shown us. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 PREFACE vii 
 
 PRINCIPLES OF COOKERY AND TABLE MANAGEMENT i— xcvi. 
 
 DICTIONARY 1—1098 
 
 APPENDIX A— Kitchen Utensils 1101—1115 
 
 ■f 
 
 „ B — Seasonable Food 1116 — 1118 
 
 „ C — Glossary of Terms used in Cookery . . 1119 — 1122 
 
 CLASSIFIED TABLE OF CONTENTS ... . 1125—1165 
 
LIST OF COLOUR PLATES 
 
 1. Plain Chicken Salad Frontispieee 
 
 2. Calf's Foot Jelly of Foue FRyiTS Facing page 92 
 
 3. Game in Aspic Jelly „ 236 
 
 4. Lamb Cutlets a la Jardiniere 
 
 5. Mayonnaise of Lobster 
 
 6. Raised Pigeon Pie 
 
 7. Potted Meat Basket 
 
 8. Raspberry Souffliss 
 
 9. Salmon Trout with Truffles 
 
 10. (Larded Sweetbread a la Financi4:re 
 
 11. Breast of Veal with Spring Vegetables 
 
 12. Winter Salad 
 
 350 
 384 
 542 
 614 
 674 
 768 
 890 
 970 
 1082 
 
THE PRINCIPLES OF 
 COOKERY AND TABLE MANAGEMENT 
 
THE PRINCIPLES OF 
 COOKERY AND TABLE MANAGEMENT. 
 
 THE NATURE OF FOODS. 
 
 ^EFORE dealing in detail with the various principles and processes of cookery^ 
 it will be well to devote a little space to the nature of foods and the philos- 
 ophy of feeding. The subject is one of more than theoretical interest,, 
 because what is called a practical knowledge must be preceded by some idea 
 of the theory of the work that one is called upon to do, and of the tools 
 employed to do it. 
 
 Broadly speaking, food has three purposes to fulfil :■ — (1) the maintenance of the 
 temperature of the body ; (2) the generation of force or energy ; and (.3) the building, 
 up and renewing of the tissues, and repairing the waste which is the inevitable result of 
 tear and wear. 
 
 The mechanism of the human machine is in constant operation. Cessation, even for 
 a moment, means death. Even in sleep respiration goes on, and the heart beats with un- 
 failing regularity. All this means work and the expenditure of energy, and requires food 
 in order that it may be maintained. Just as, to make an engine move, you must provide 
 it with a combustible, such as coal, so the human body must be provided with divers- 
 aliments in order that it may be kept in good going order. And as the engineer must 
 know something of the internal mechanism of his engine, so should the cook be instructed 
 in the physiology of the human body, in order that he or she may know the effects of 
 difierent kinds of foodstuffs upon it, and may see that it is neither cloyed nor starved. 
 
 The quantity and quality of food required vary, of course, with the age, the climate, 
 the state of health, and the habits of the consumer. Without going into figures, which 
 would probably be misleading, it will be sufficient to say that a young, growing lad needs 
 more food than an old person, and an active man who has much outdoor exercise requires 
 a greater amount of sustenance than one whose occupation is of a sedentary nature. Again, 
 the inhabitants of cold climates, such as the Esquimaux, require a difierent kind of food 
 from the natives of tropical regions such as the East Indies. 
 
 But, in order that any kind of food may be beneficial to the human body, it must be 
 transformed into a condition which will enable it to be absorbed into the system. The 
 process by which this is done is called digestion. Far from being a simple process, as 
 many people suppose, digestion is a combination of many different processes, the object 
 of which is to reduce the food into a liquid state. The useful parts are then taken into 
 the blood, while the insoluble and indigestible portions are thrown ofi by the excreting 
 organs. 
 
 Thus, we have mastication and salivation (or the mixing of the food with the saliva 
 in the mouth), swallowing, the digestive process which takes place in the stomach, and 
 the action of the bile and various other fluids secreted by special organs. All this 
 
CASSELL'S NEW DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. 
 
 presupposes an ordinary state of good healtt, and thus we see why, in the cases of sick 
 people, of the aged, and of infants, it is necessary to prepare the dishes in such a way as to 
 render them easily assimilable, without casting too heavy a strain on the digestive organs. 
 The infant, as we know, thrives upon milk, which is an almost perfect food ; milk, beef-tea, 
 and such like, form the staple of the diet of an invalid ; while the aged require their diet 
 to be limited to such articles of food as they can easily digest. 
 
 Whatever may be said by faddists, it is certain that man thrives best upon a mixed 
 diet composed of meats, fruits, and vegetables. The ultimate elements of which a man's 
 body is composed must be the same as those contained in his food, but difEerent kinds of 
 foods have diifecent functions to perform. 
 
 Foods may be divided into two great classes — the inorganic and the organic. The 
 inorganic foods are water and salts. Water is one of the necessaries of life. A person 
 ■could live without it only a few days. It constitutes by weight three-fifths of the human 
 body, and enters largely into all organic matter. Water is an aid to the performance 
 ■of many of the functions of the body, holding in solution the various nutritious principles, 
 and also acting as a carrier of waste. It usually contains foreign matter, but the nearer 
 it is to being pure the more valuable it becomes as an agent in the body. Some vegetables, 
 such as vegetable marrow, are almost entirely composed of water. Salts are simply 
 minerals, such as phosphate and carbonate of lime, phosphate and sulphate of potash, 
 phosphate and sulphate of soda, phosphate of magnesia, chloride of potassium, and chloride 
 •of sodium. These are distributed in various parts of the human frame. Thus, phosphate 
 ■of lime is demanded by the bones, phosphate of soda by the cartilages, phosphate of mag- 
 nesia and phosphate of potash by the muscles. Silica is monopolised by the skin and 
 nails ; iron occurs in the colouring matter of the blood, and sulphur exists in the hair. 
 These facts afford valuable guidance in the intelligent drawing up of dietaries. Alkaline 
 :salts exist largely in fresh vegetables, and the absence of such articles from daily diet 
 may induce that state of malnutrition which we call scurvy. A 'deficiency of phosphate 
 ■of lime in the food of children causes that weakness of the bones which goes by the name 
 ■of rickets. 
 
 The organic foods are the most important. They are divided into three groups, — 
 namely, the albuminoids, represented by the white of egg and the lean, or fibrin, of meat ; 
 the fats, which contain carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen ; and the carbohydrates, which 
 include sugar and starch. The white of egg is composed of albumen, a clear white fluid 
 which solidifies when exposed to a temperature of 108' Fahr., a fact which should be borne 
 in mind by everyone who has occasion to cook an egg. The vegetable world also contri- 
 butes to this group of foods, for oatmeal, peas, and many vegetables are very rich in albumen. 
 Englishmen, as a rule, eat far too few vegetables. It is quite possible to maintain heailth 
 on a properly regulated vegetarian diet, although for many reasons it is not desirable. 
 For persons in dehcate health or prostrated with illness, vegetables are, as a rule, inadmissible 
 for they require a longer time to digest, and hence throw too much work on the organs • 
 while a great part of them is thrown off as solid and indigestible matter. The main part, 
 the albuminous — or, as they are sometimes called, the nitrogenous — foods have to play 
 is the building up of waste tissue. It should be noted that the gelatines, of which calf's 
 foot jelly may be taken as a type, belong to this group. Fibrin, in the solid state, con- 
 stitutes the bundle of minute fibres of which all the muscles of the body are composed 
 In a liquid state, held in solution in the blood, it also circulates through the system. When 
 iound in the vegetable kingdom it is knowu as gluten. Besides its value as a nutritive 
 
THE WHY AND THE WHEREFORE OP BOILING, GRILLING AND FRYING. V 
 
 constituent of oats, barley, wheat, and other cereals, gluten helps the rising of dough when 
 inflated by carbonic acid gas, and thus renders the bread light and spongy. Casein, which 
 is found in milk, and forms the basis of cheese, is also included among the albuminoids. 
 It differs from fibrin chiefly in containing no phosphorus. The fact that it is the only 
 flesh-forming constituent of milk is a proof of it& nutritiveness, and also of its digestibility 
 when in a fluid state. 
 
 The next division of the organic foods is constituted by the fats. The fats are obtained 
 from both the animal and vegetable kingdoms, for the oil expressed from the olive and 
 the wax manufactured by the bee are both alike fats. The main object of the fats appears 
 to be to maintain heat. This is effected by a process precisely similar to the combustion 
 of a candle, although in the body it takes place at a much slower rate. The production 
 of heat by combustion is simply due to the chemical act of the combination of oxygen 
 with carbon. This is effected in the body as follows: The carbon, which the blood has 
 extracted from the food, meets in the circulation with the oxygen which the act of inspir- 
 ation has inhaled from the external air, and the two commingle ; and it is a well-known 
 axiom of chemistry that every chemical combination is attended with the production of 
 heat. 
 
 Lastly, we come to the group known as the carbohydrates, which includes the sugars 
 and starches. It may be mentioned here that starch, before it can be absorbed into the 
 system, has to be converted into sugar. The carbohydrates are almost exclusively con- 
 fined to the vegetable world. Sugar we get from fruits, but some vegetables — such as 
 the beet — contain large quantities of it. Potatoes, rice, arrowroot, and wheat are also 
 rich in starch, and their nutritive value depends almost entirely on it. The carbohydrates 
 are composed chemically, like the fats, of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen ; but, while 
 doubtless they act as heat-producers, their main function seems to be the evolution of 
 force or energy. The primitive food instincts of man, which nearly always lead him to 
 sound conclusions in the choice of his diet, seem to point to this fact, for while we find 
 the lethargic inhabitants of the Arctic circle existing chiefly on the fat obtained from 
 blubber, we have at the other extreme the lithe and active natives of India, who can undergo 
 great physical strain, supporting life on a diet chiefly composed of the carbohydrates. 
 
 THE WHY AND THE WHEREFORE OF BOILING, 
 GRILLING, AND FRYING. 
 
 If we understood more than we do the princijiles on which cooking depends, the fact 
 
 of being able to make one dish, combined with knowing the reasons for the result, would 
 
 often lead to our being able to make a large variety of similar dishes, which a very slight 
 
 ■ inventive talent would enable us to vary so much in flavour that, instead of knowing one 
 
 recipe, we should know twenty. 
 
 It is evident that in all cooking one of two great principles must constantly be brought 
 into play. One, to keep the flavour in ; another, to get the flavour out. 
 
 Let us for one moment contrast boihng a leg of mutton and making good mutton 
 broth. It is evident that in the one case, since we eat the mutton, our endeavour should, 
 be to keep as much flavour in the meat as possible ; but in the second, since what we want 
 
il 
 
 CASSELL'S NEW DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. 
 
 is the broth, not the meat, our endeavour should be to extract as much flavour out of 
 the mutton as possible. 
 
 Nov/ there are many persons who positively proceed to prepare both in almost the same 
 way. There is a certain principle, or rather chemical fact, and that is, that albumen 
 coagulates and becomes hard at boiUng-point. This very important fact should never 
 be lost sight of in cooking meat, for it should be remembered that meat largely consists 
 of albunien in the form of fibrin. 
 
 First, then, to boil the leg of mutton. Place the leg of mutton in boiling water ; this 
 will take the water off the boil ; let the saucepan remain on the fire till the water boils 
 up again, then remove the saucepan to the side of the fire, or place it on top of the range 
 after closing the aperture, and let it simmer, not boil, very gently, till the leg of mutton 
 is done. The time, of course, varies with the size, but one about nine pounds should take 
 about two hours and a half. 
 
 Next, let us inquire. Why did we do this ? 
 
 The leg of mutton, by contact with this boiUng water, acquires a rim or coating of 
 coagulated albumen. Were we to leave the leg to actually boil for long, the whole 
 would become hardened, and consequently the mutton would be tough ; but by 
 removing the saucepan ofi the fire we get the mutton to cook slowly, surrounded as 
 it is by a thin casing of hard meat, not thicker than a thin sixpence, which keeps in the 
 gravy and flavour. 
 
 Now, in making mutton broth, we must proceed on exactly contrary principles. Our 
 •object is to extract all the flavour we possibly can from the meat and get it into the broth ; 
 we therefore cut up the meat into small pieces, and put them into cold water, and let them 
 simmer as long as possible without boiling. By this means all the juices of the meat 
 gradually get extracted, and the solid part of the meat that is left, after the broth is well 
 drained off, contains scarcely any nourishment at all. 
 
 I may here add, however, as some may possibly not know how to make mutton broth, 
 that for invalids, to whom vegetables are forbidden, the proper proportions for the broth 
 are about two pounds of mutton and two ounces of pearl barley and a little salt to one 
 quart of water. For ordinary mutton broth the barley (and, if desired, dried peas soaked 
 over-night) should be put in along with the meat to simmer. When it comes to boihng 
 point two carrots cut into dice should be added. An hour afterwards add two leeks, a 
 •couple of turnips (cut up), and a little thyme. Shortly before hfting add a little fresh 
 parsley, chopped up flne. Skim thoroughly all the time. The pieces of mutton should 
 be served up in the soup. 
 
 This same principle of keeping in the flavour applies to a large variety of dishes. For 
 instance, suppose we want to have that good old-fashioned English dish, rumpsteak 
 and oyster-sauce, how rarely is it that you get the latter fit to eat ! Too often oyster- 
 sauce is simply thick melted butter, with a few oysters in it that feel like leather — they 
 are so hard. Now oysters are a great delicacy, and require great care in cooking ; I will 
 describe as briefly as possible how to make oyster-sauce, and at the same time explain 
 the reasons for what we do. 
 
 In the flrst place, if an oyster is boiled it becomes quite hard and indigestible ; secondly, 
 an oyster, if put into hot liquid, very quickly loses all its flavour. 
 
 Suppose, then, we have a dozen large oysters. First of all have them opened so that 
 every drop of the liquor is saved. Take off the beards, and place the oysters in a small 
 separate basin, tajcing care, of course, that no little pieces of shell are left adhering to 
 
THE WHY AND THE WHEREFORE OF BOILING, GRILLING AND FRYING. vii 
 
 them. Next take half a pint of milk, and add to it the oyster .hq^uor, and put this on the 
 fire to simmer gently. Thicken it with a Httle butter and flour previously mixed together. 
 This is done by adding the butter and flour little by little, and stirring the sauce while it 
 gently boils over the fire. As soon as the sauce has by this means become about as thick 
 as cream, melt in about an ounce and a half more butter, and stir gently. Should the sauce 
 appear to run oily, it shows you have too much butter, and by suddenly checking the 
 heat, and keeping on stirring, the sauce will become all right again — a little piece of ice 
 is the best, or a table-spoonful of cold milk will do. Now add a little pepper and a tea- 
 spoonful of anchovy sauce. It is wonderful how anchovy sauce brings out the fiavour 
 of oysters. I would advise cooks to taste the sauce which is flavoured only with the oyster 
 liquor before adding the anchovy sauce, and after it has been added. The change in the 
 flavour is so wonderful that they will have a good practical lesson of the importance of 
 little things for flavouring purposes. 
 
 The next point is the oysters, which we left in a Uttle basin. First have ready the 
 sauce tureen, empty, but thoroughly hot. Have also ready on the fire a large saucepan 
 or stewpan with boiling water. Next take a small strainer in the right hand, and hold it 
 in the boiling water with the metal part of the strainer in it. Lift the strainer just above 
 the boiling water, and pour the oysters out of the little basin into it. Let the oysters be 
 in contact with the boiling water not more than two or three seconds ; let the water strain 
 ofE them, and then throw them into the hot tureen. Pour the sauce on to them, and the 
 oyster sauce is ready. 
 
 Now a moment's consideration will show that we have treated the oysters just on 
 the same principle that we did the leg of mutton — viz. we have surrounded each oyster 
 with a very thin film that keeps in the flavour. Had we allowed the oysters to remain 
 in the boiling water for two or three minutes instead of two or three seconds, we should 
 have made them as tough as leather ; had we not put them in at all, they would have 
 lost much of their flavour as soon as they were put into the sauce, besides having a some- 
 what flabby taste. By doing what I have said, the hardening process went on just long 
 enough to surround each oyster with a coating not thicker, perhaps, than a piece of gold- 
 beater's skin, but then, when the oyster arrived at its destination— the mouth— the moment 
 this coating was broken the whole of the flavour could be tasted. 
 
 Why does a well-cooked chop or steak look black outside and red in ? and why does 
 it require a clear, bright fire ? Because this is the only way in which it can be cooked 
 to keep the flavour in. The fierceness of the fire surrounds the chop or steak, as the case 
 may be, with a hard coating almost directly the meat is placed on the gridiron. When 
 the steak comes up and is cut, you can then see the red gravy run out, and not before. 
 Many a chop and steak is spoilt by turning it with a fork, as of course it lets out the gravy, 
 which runs into the fire. 
 
 I will now turn to quite another subject— viz. omelets. The principle Of cooking here 
 to be considered is how to make things Ught. Now how often do you get an omelet m a 
 private house fit to eat ? Very seldom— at least, that is my experience. And yet an 
 omelet is really a very easy thing to make. The secret of a light omelet is to froth the 
 eggs. But I will go through the recipe ah initio. 
 
 Suppose first the omelet to be a savoury one. First take an omelet-pan ; it is no use 
 trying to make an omelet in a frying-pan that has been used for all sorts of purposes. Take 
 three eggs, and break them one by one into a cup, to see if they are good, and put them in 
 a basin. Add a small onion, about <.he size ^f a small hazel-nut, chopped finely, and 
 
Vlii CASSELL'S NEW DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. 
 
 about half a tea-spoonful of parsley chopped equally fine, about a salt-spoonful oi salt, 
 and half that measure of pepper. Add two table-spoonfuls of milk. 
 
 Now place in the omelet-pan. a small spoonful of fresh butter. Place the pan on the 
 fire, to melt the butter till it froths. Next, with a fork — a wooden fork is best — ^beat up 
 the eggs with the milk, chopped onion, and parsley, and pepper and salt, till it is quite 
 frothy. Keep on beating it till the last moment, and then pour it quickly into the butter 
 which, as I have said, must be frothing in the pan. 
 
 Take a large spoon and stir it all up very quickly, scraping the bottom of the pan all 
 the time, to prevent the omelet from sticking and burning. As soon as it begins to set 
 take the pan a little from the fire, and with a spoon work the omelet into a half-moon 
 shape. When it is nearly set, take the pan ofi the fire, and hold it in front of the fire^ 
 resting the edge of the pan on the bottom bar, and slanting the pan as much as possible ; 
 but, of course, care must be taken not to let the omelet slip right into the fire. Hold the 
 •pan like this for a couple of minutes or so. This causes the omelet to rise, and it thereby 
 becomes lighter. In large French kitchens, where there is no open fire, they hold a red-hot 
 salamander over the omelet, which has the same efEect. A red-hot shovel does very well 
 if you have a shut-up range. 
 
 The omelet-pan must never be washed, as, if you wash it, the omelet will stick to the 
 bottom of the pan. Before using it wipe it clean with a cloth, and be careful of damp 
 or rust. 
 
 A sweet omelet is made in exactly the same maimer, only of course there is no pepper, 
 onion, or parsley, and only a tiny pinch of salt. Add, however, instead, a tea-spoonful 
 of very finely powdered sugar, and half a tea-spoonful of essence of vanilla. This last is 
 an immense improvement. When an " omelette au confiture " is required, the omelet 
 must be kept in the frying-pan round, a spoonful of the jam placed in the centre, and 
 covered with the ends of the omelet. These omelets must be made very quickly in 
 order to be tender, and iced with sugar on top. A little rum, brandy, or kirsch may be 
 poured over and set alight when being served. 
 
 For a soufile omelet the yolks must be separated from the whites. Whip the whites 
 till firm, and mix with the yolks, to which sugar has been previously added. Flavour 
 with vanilla or lemon. An omelet must be served directly it is cooked ; so do not begin 
 to prepare it until just before it is required to be served, as it only takes two or three minutes 
 to make. 
 
 As I said before, the secret of a hght omelet is frothing the eggs. Why ? Because 
 by so doing you mix the omelet up with an infinite number of tiny air-bubbles. Now 
 we all know that heat expands everything, air included. These little bubbles, therefore 
 — some, perhaps, the size of a pin's point — ^become under the action of heat the size, 
 possibly, of a pin's head ; and as long as the omelet remains hot it is light — pufied out, 
 in fact, by air-bubbles expanded by heat. 
 
 If you let the omelet get partially cold, it in consequence gets heavy. This point 
 is, however, more strongly exemplified in the case of souffles. A cheese souffle is a very 
 nice thing to finish dinner with, and if you know how to make one, is a capital extra dish 
 in case some one comes in to dinner quite unexpectedly. I will try and tell you how to 
 make it, and also, as far as I can, explain why. 
 
 I will describe how to make as small a one as possible, as it is easy to increase the 
 size, and experiments are always most economical on a small scale. Take a round tin 
 or silver-plated vegetable dish- about four inches in diameter, and quite three deep. Next 
 
THE WHY AND THE ■WHEREFORE OF BOILING, GRILLING, AND FRYING. ix 
 
 take two table-spoonfuls of finely- grated cheese — Parmesan is the best — and place it in 
 a basin with a quarter of a pint (half a tumbler) of milk, about half a salt-spoonful of salt, 
 and a quarter of that quantity of pepper. Next break a couple of eggs, keeping the whites 
 separate from the yolks in a small basin. Mix up the yolks with the milk, cheese, etc., 
 thoroughly. Now take these two whites, and whip them up into a stifE froth, and then 
 mix in quickly the milk, etc. Butter the inside of the tin, and put it in the oven until it 
 is very hot. Pour the mixture into the tin quickly, and place it in the oven. The oven 
 must be of moderate heat, otherwise the souffle gets burnt outside and remains pappy 
 in the middle. The average time of baking is about twenty-five minutes to half an hour. 
 The souffle, which when placed in the tin did not half fill it, will rise up a couple of inches 
 above the tin. Everything, however, depends upon its being served quickly. Probably 
 the souffle, if it is two inches above the edge of the tin when it leaves the oven, will sink 
 nearly level with the top before it reaches the table. This cannot be helped, but everything 
 that saves time must be thought of beforehand. For instance, some people delay to pin 
 a dinner-napkin round the tin. Of course, the best plan is to have a silver-plated souffle- 
 case, and then there is no occasion for any delay. These, however, are not always obtain- 
 able. 
 
 Have a piece of clean white ornamented paper with a frill ready, and let there be 
 plenty of room for the souffle to rise. Drop the tin into the round paper, which should 
 not be higher than the edge of the tin ; but whatever you do, or however you do it, be 
 quick. Have a hot cover ready to pop on, and run with it to the dinner-table. 
 
 The next point to consider is. Why did the souffle rise ? Because of the air-bubbles. 
 It is easy to whisk the whites of eggs into a foam, but not the yolks. By separating the 
 whites, therefore, and beating them up separately, we increased our number of air -bubbles 
 to an enormous extent. These bubbles expand with the heat, hence the lightness of the 
 souffle. On the other hand, as the souffle cools, the bubbles contract, the souffle goes down, 
 and a cold souffle would be as heavy as a hot one is light. 
 
 Now the princifle is the thing to grasp. For instance, in making a cake, you want, 
 of course, to make it light ; therefore remember the souffle — i.e., beat the whites up separ- 
 ate from the yolks. This will have the efEect of considerably lightening the cake, though, 
 of course, as the process of baking a large cake is slower than that of baking a souffle, the 
 cake would not rise in anything like the same proportion. 
 
 Another important point on which we ought to examine into the principles of cooking 
 is that of frying. And here we may observe that there are two distinct and separate pro- 
 cesses of cookery both known by that name — viz. frying in deep fat, and dry frying. The 
 first of these is used in the frying of fish, rissoles, etc., and requires a deep frying kettle 
 or saucepan ; while the second denotes frying with a small quantity of dripping or butter 
 in a shallow frying-pan. A few rules for frying in deep fat will be useful. 
 
 It is essential that the fat be very hot before anything is immersed in it, otherwise 
 the foo^d cooked will not brown properly and will be fatty, a defect which cannot be remedied 
 by raising the temperature afterwards. To test if it is the proper heat, throw in a small 
 piece of bread ; if it browns in a few seconds, the fat is hot enough ; if it burns, the fat is 
 too hot for frying. A few drops of water thrown in will make the fat bubble violently 
 if it reaches "from,, say, 360° to 400°, which is the proper temperature. A gas stove 
 is very suitable for frying in deep fat, as the heat can be regulated to a nicety. A cook 
 will soon be able to judge for herself by its appearance when the fat is hot enough. It 
 will be perfectly still,' difiering in this respect from water, as the latter bubbles when at 
 
X CASSELLS NEW DICTIONARY OP COOKERY. 
 
 boiling point, whereas fat bubbles only until the moisture has evaporated. When a thin 
 blue vapour rises it is fit to use ; this is a certain test, but the saucepan must be seen against 
 the light to discern it, and many kitchens are too dark to allow of this. There should be 
 enough fat to cover whatever is being fried. Anything to be fried in deep fat should be 
 dry ; fish should be floured before being egged and bread-crumbed or dipped in batter. 
 Potato chips should be dried in a cloth. Rissoles should not be soft and wet. If this 
 important rule is not attended to, the different preparations will turn out flabby or burnt, 
 and this cannot afterwards be rectified. If dark meat, such as beef, be used for rissoles, 
 a second application of egg and breadcrumb will make them fry a nicer brown, and will 
 lessen their chance of bursting. 
 
 Four or five pieces at most, whether fillets of fish, potato balls, fritters, or what not, 
 are sufficient to fry at a time, even in a large saucepan ; if more are placed in the fat the 
 temperature will become too low for successful results. From three to ten minutes is 
 the average time taken to cook in hot fat ; if anything becomes brown before the centre 
 is cooked, draw the pan to the side of the fire for a few minutes. A wire frying basket 
 is a very useful adjunct ; it should be somewhat smaller than the saucepan, or frying 
 kettle, as wire expands with heat. Place the fillets or rissoles in it, and immerse in the 
 boiling fat. When cooked, lift the basket, and hold it over the saucepan for a second 
 or two to drain. Take out the fillets, and lay them on a hot dish, or, better still, on a tin 
 baking sheet covered with blotting paper, where they can lie until all are cooked and ready 
 to be arranged on a dish for table. A fish-slicer and spoon will be found useful to lift 
 out of the fat whatever is being cooked, when a frying basket is not used. 
 
 After the fat has been used a few times it is well — when it cools, but before it cakes 
 — to pour on it some cold water ; this will clarify it, and the impurities will sink to the bottom. 
 Cooks must not fear to fry fish, rissoles, cheese dainties, and even sweets, in the same fat, 
 ior if it be heated to the proper temperature not the slightest taste will remain. 
 
 There is, perhaps, no word in the English language so little understood as the word 
 economy. Just as political economists are too often considered by the vulgar to be men 
 of hard hearts, so, too, in the art of cookery is economy often associated with meanness 
 and stinginess. I have no hesitation in saying it wiU invariably be found that the better 
 the cook, the more economy will be practised. There is more waste in the cottage than 
 in the palace, for the simple reason that the cottage cook is entirely ignorant of an art 
 which the chef has brought to perfection. What your so-called good plain cooks throw 
 away, an ingenious French artiste will make into entries. The French are a nation of 
 cooks, and they cannot afford to dine without soup. Probably the contents of the dust- 
 bins of England would more than fill the soup tureens of France. I will give a very simple 
 instance of what^I term economy in the ordinary living of middle-class families. We all 
 know that grand old-fashioned fiece de resistance, the British sirloin. Who has not seen 
 it in its Idst stages ? — the under-cut gone, the upper part dug out, on which some greedy 
 individual has evidently grasped after the under-done piece in the middle, but who, at the 
 same time, has entirely ignored the end. The kitchen more than follows suit to the dining- 
 room, and what is despised above is scorned below, and perhaps the real destination of 
 the end of the sirloin, which the young housekeeper fondly imagines has done for the ser- 
 vants' supper, has been the dog-kennel. Suppose, now, this end had been cut off before 
 the joint was roasted, and placed in a little salt water, a nice, wholesome, and agreeable 
 hot dinner would have been obtainable with the assistanfce of some boiled greens and 
 potatoes. A little forethought in these matters constitutes real' economy. Scraps of 
 
THE WHY AND THE WHEREFORE OF BOILING, GRILLING, AND FRYING. XI 
 
 meat, fag ends of pieces of bacon, too often wasted, will, with a little judicious manage- 
 ment, make a nice dish of rissoles. 
 
 I have called attention above to the principles on which joints should be boiled, and 
 I will now say a few words on an equally important subject, namely, the principle on which 
 joints should be roasted. Just as in the former case, so in the latter, the one point to be 
 born3 in mind is to keep in the -flavour. Now, in roasting a joint, perhaps some people may 
 think that to lose the flavour is impossible. Such, however, is not the case. Just as in 
 turning a steak on the gridiron you let out the gravy if you stick a fork in it, so in roasting 
 a leg of mutton you do, to a certain extent, though not equally great, let out the gravy 
 if you run a hook right into the meat itself. There are ingenious machines made — which, 
 however, are chiefly intended for haunches, particularly haunches of venison — by which 
 the whole joint is surrounded by thin metal rods expressly intended to obviate the necessity 
 of sticking anything into the meat. These cradles, nowadays, are very rarely met with. 
 Some little ingenuity will be sufficient, however, for the purpose in point. All practical 
 cooks know the difficulty of hanging a leg of mutton or a haunch on the spit. After an 
 hour or so the joint, under the influence of the heat, is apt to give, and the thin bone 
 adjoining the shank breaks away. Now by placing a small piece of wood underneath 
 the bottom of the joint, and fastening a piece of copper wire to either end of the wood, 
 and bringing it up to the top or knuckle end, the joint is supported in a kind of cradle. 
 The copper wire, however, is very apt to slip, but by tying two pieces of string round the 
 centre of the joint, this difficulty will be overcome. Again, in basting a joint, that part 
 requires most basting which is least covered with fat. Should you have a haunch 
 in which a part of what we may term the breast had the appearance wTien raw of 
 being somewhat lean, then slices of fat placed over it, and tied on to it, not skewered in, 
 or a few sheets of well-oiled foolscap paper, will have the efiect of checking the heat during 
 the earlier period of roasting, and consequently will prevent the joint from having the out- 
 side dried up, a fault too often met with. 
 
 But in these days of close ranges and gas stoves, a roast joint, cooked on a spit before 
 the fire, is almost a rarity, and the various ingenious appliances that were once in "common 
 use for turning the meat at a properly regulated speed are looked upon with curiosity by 
 the rising generation. 
 
 There can be no doubt that the most economical institution in any kitchen is the 
 stock-pot ; and it is in this respect that our French neighbours show their enormous 
 superiority over ourselves. It is obvious that the larger the Jcitchen, and the greater the 
 number of persons to be supplied with food, the greater will be the number of odds and 
 ends that find their way back from the dining-room. In private houses it will be too 
 often found that huge plates of what are ingenuously termed " broken victuals " are given 
 to the dog, the greater portion of which, if placed in the stock-pot, would have been con- 
 verted into most excellent soup. Now, it is unquestionably not agreeable to the Enghsh 
 taste to use for culinary purposes bones that have been left upon plates. The economy 
 of honing a joint — for instance, a loin of mutton — before cooking it, is very considerable, 
 as the bones, which in the one case would have been left only half scraped upon the plates, 
 are in the other converted into excellent soup. 
 
 As we have before pointed out, when once the principles of cooking are understood, 
 one recipe will often lead to another. Cooking is an art — a high art — and cannot be 
 learnt in a day, nor can it be learnt by simply reading a book on the subject. The study 
 of cookery must be combined with practice. Now there is perhaps no part of this practice 
 
^1 CASSELLS NEW DICTIONARV OF COOKERY. 
 
 SO important as the knowledge of varying recipes as o;jcasion may require. It will be evident 
 that no work on cooking, however large or however good, can adapt its recipes to meet 
 the requirements of every family in quantity as well as quahty. We have endeavoured, 
 therefore, when it is possible, to give in our present work different methods of preparing 
 the various dishes, etc. ; but, of course, it would be impossible to give separate recipes, 
 ■ adapted to various families differing perhaps as much in temperament as in size. 
 
 We will illustrate what we mean by referring to an excellent recipe for preparing 
 bechamel sauce, which will be found in its proper place. We have there recommended 
 the cook to boil down an old fowl, three pounds of knuckle of veal, and three pounds of 
 very lean ham. This is, of course, for the preparation of a large quantity. Now, we will 
 suppose the case of a family consisting of but two persons, and say two servants — a by 
 no means uncommon occurrence. Of course, to purchase such quantities for two would 
 be extravagant to a degree ; however, are we, say our newly -married couple, to be debarred 
 from the occasional taste of sauce bechamel ? By no means. If the cook is in possession 
 of some little education and common sense, she would have no difficulty whatever in 
 grasping the principle of the recipe to which we have referred. 
 
 We wiU suppose the house to possess such very ordinary dishes as the remains of a 
 cold fowl and a piece of boiled bacon. Now, suppose the cook to read the recipe care- 
 fully, and see in about what proportions the different ingredients should be mixed. The 
 carcase of the fowl is cut up and placed in a saucepan, with one or two of the bacon bones, 
 which, being lean, form the best substitute for the lean ham. A little piece of veal — say 
 a quarter of a pound, or indeed a spoonful of gelatine would do — must be added. Add 
 to these a slice of carrot, or even the whole of a small one, a good slice of onion, a tiny 
 piece of mace, one or two peppercorns, and salt to taste. Let all these simmer gently 
 for a couple of hours or so, and then strain ofi, water having been added in a due pro- 
 portion. Now, this stock would, of course, make excellent bechamel sauce, for the simple 
 reason that every ingredient in the recipe has been used, the difference between the lean 
 bacon bones and the lean ham being too trifling to make any material change in the flavour. 
 If this broth be well strained and well skimmed, and every particle of grease removed, 
 and then be simmered down to about three-quarters of a tumbler in quantity, it has, of 
 course, just like the other broth, only to be mixed with an equal quantity of good boiling 
 cream, and slightly thickened with a httle arrowroot, to be equal in flavour and excellence 
 to any bechamel sauce served up in a first-class large hotel. 
 
 In many hundreds of the recipes we shall give, it will be the duty of the cook, in order 
 to render such recipes practical, or, in other words, to make the recipe fit in to the ex- 
 ceptional circumstances of the family or place, to make such httle alterations as we have 
 described. Of course, in some instances, the quantities must be increased, such as in the 
 case of large schools, and in others decreased. 
 
 STUDYING APPEARANCES. 
 
 In addition to the first and primary principle of cooking — i.e., of supplying the body 
 with nourishment — there are two other important principles to be constantly borne in 
 mind : one is to please the palate, the other to please the eye. We have called them two 
 principles, but in reahty they are one, for the reason that the palate is pleased by means 
 
STUDYING APPEARANCES. 
 
 of the eye. There are some good old sayings pregnant with meaning, such as, " It makes 
 one hungry to look at it," or " It makes one's mouth water." Have you ever observed 
 a very hungry animal tied up, or in a cage, just before it is red, wJien a fine and to him 
 tempting piece of juicy meat is brought in view ? Making the mouth water is no figure 
 of speech, but a reality that can be witnessed any day at the Zoological Gardens. 
 
 I believe that in teaching young cooks one cannot begin too soon to impress upon 
 them the importance of appearances. 
 
 For instance, in making a mayonnaise salad, it is almost as easy to make an elegant 
 dish as a plain one. Why not therefore do so on every occasion ? The lettuce, etc., inside, 
 the sauce made as thick almost as butter, and spread over the salad. A little lobster coral 
 or fine-chopped green parsley, sprinkled with a few bright green capers on the white sauce. 
 A few little strips of red beetroot added, and, if the salad be a chicken one, a few slices of 
 white chicken, stamped in the shape of a cock's comb, placed alternately with some similar 
 shaped pieces of red tongue placed round the base ; some filleted anchovies and stoned 
 olives will be found an improvement. What a difference to all the ingredients being piled 
 together in a dish anyhow without regard to appearances. 
 
 I will take another instance. In London, at times, in cheap eating-houses, will be 
 seen a window with perhaps fifty or a hundred cold roast fowls all heaped up together, 
 going cheap. Does it make your mouth water, even if you are hungry ? No. Suppose 
 however, we were to take one of these fowls, and put it on a nice bright silver dish, and 
 ornament it with some green double parsley, and a few thin slices of cut lemon — the dish 
 must be placed on a cloth as white as snow — what a difference ! 
 
 Again, look at a sirloin of beef that has got cold in the dish in which it was originally 
 cooked. The gravy has settled, and the whole joint is studded with wafers of fat ; the 
 edge of the dish, too, is greasy. Suppose some stupid servant were to bring up the joint 
 just as it is. It is perfectly wholesome, but would it look tempting ? On the other hand, 
 look at a cold sirloin on the sideboard, in a large clean dish, with plenty of curly white 
 horseradish and parsley. There are to my mind few dishes more tempting ; and yet, 
 bear in mind, the difference between the two is simply that of appearance. 
 
 Take, again, butter — especially in summer time. The same butter on a smeary plate 
 looking like pomatum, or in a bright cut-glass dish done up into neat little pats, with here 
 and there a tiny piece of parsley to set it off. 
 
 I have known cooks exclaim, " Oh, never mind what it looks like, as long as it tastes 
 :all right." This is, however, a great mistake. Now in boiling fish, not only should the 
 cook endeavour to boil it properly — i.e., not too much or too little — ^but also endeavour 
 to make the fish white. How, you may ask, can this be done ? By bearing in mind that 
 the colouring matter in fish is affected and partially dissolved by acids. Suppose you have 
 a large turbot. Before putting it into the fish-kettle, all you have to do is to rub the fat, 
 white side of the turbot with a slice of lemon, the effect of this being to render the fish far 
 whiter when it is taken out of the water than it otherwise would be. Here, again, when 
 you know the principle, it is a guide to boiling all large fish. Of course, too, in lifting the 
 fish out of the water, the scum floating on the top of the water should in every case be first 
 removed, as it would otherwise settle on the fish, and destroy not only the appearance, 
 but even the flavour. 
 
 In boiling all large white fish, regard should be had to appearances ; no fish should 
 be sent up quite plain. If the cook would always have in his or her possession a small 
 •quantity of lobster coral, a little could be easily sprinkled over the surface of the fish. It 
 
XIV CASSELLS NEW DICTIONARY OP COOKERY. 
 
 is wonderful how a fish, is improved in appearance by such a simple means as this. If, 
 in addition, some fresh parsley, cut lemon, and a few good-sized prawns are used by way 
 of ornament, the fish that would otherwise present quite an ordinary appearance is made 
 into a really elegant dish. 
 
 This principle of " making things look white " will extend beyond the region of fish. 
 For instance, good cooks will put a few drops of vinegar into the water in which they poach 
 eggs. Why ? For the simple reason that the eggs will look whiter ; the colouring matter 
 mixed in with the eggs is more soluble in boiling water slightly acid than in ordinary water, 
 and, consequently, poached eggs treated this way will come to table presenting that snowy 
 appearance that renders them far more appetising — not that they taste better, but that 
 the palate is affected through the eye. 
 
 COOKING A STEAK. 
 
 As we have already adverted to those good old sayings current upon the subject of 
 the principles of cookery, we would refer to that perhaps most common one of all, viz. 
 " The test of a good cook is to cook a steak and boil a potato." Let us dwell for a few 
 moments on the important dish in all English households — a steak, or a chop. 
 
 I candidly confess that I think a chop or steak one of the very best tests of a good 
 cook, for the simple reason that the proper cooking of either calls forth certain qualities 
 on the cook's part, which nothing but experience can give. 
 
 .These qualities may be briefly summed up in the words — forethought, patience, and 
 common sense. In the first place, the state of the fire is of paramount importance ; and 
 probably the chief cause of chops and steaks being, as a rule, inferior when cooked in 
 private houses to those prepared in public establishments is the difficulty of maintaining 
 a clear fire in the former. To attempt to cook a chop over a fire on which coals have been 
 recently placed is simply an act of insanity. Here, therefore, comes in the quality of 
 forethought to which we have alluded. By keeping the fire bright, and supplying it with 
 half-burnt cinders and the ashes of previous fires, much may be done to rival " the 
 grill " of large establishments. 
 
 We will, therefore, suppose a moderately bright fire, free from gassy exhalations, 
 and also suppose the cook to be above the barbarism of even thinking of a frying-pan as 
 an easier, and, with a view to the " grease-pot," a more profitable piece of machinery than 
 the gridiron. 
 
 First, place the gridiron on the fire for a minute or so, and then take it off and smell 
 it. It may seem to some absurd to mention such trifling matters of detail, but then cooking 
 — good cooking — consists in constantly observing details. As we said, smell it, for the 
 simple purpose of finding out if it has been properly cleaned. Suppose, for instance, it 
 has cooked a bloater on the last occasion ; the heat will bring out the possible omission 
 of cleanliness on the part of the person whose duty it was to see the gridiron put by in its 
 proper state. Having, therefore, warmed it, rub it carefully with a piece of paper ; and 
 let those who doubt the advice thus given go down themselves to their kitchens and try 
 their own gridiron, and observe the colour of the paper after this very necessary operation. 
 If the gridiron has been used on the last occasion for fish, it will be found a good plan, after 
 wiping it with paper, to finish with rubbing the bars with a small piece of onion. By this 
 
COOKING A STEAK. 
 
 means a flavour highly objectionable is destroyed, and one that, even if detected, would 
 do no harm is given. Suppose, therefore, the gridiron clean, and the chop or steak placed 
 on it. No advice with regard to time is here possible. The cook has to depend entirely 
 on his judgment, but the old rule of " ten minutes and ten turns " is generally a safe one 
 to go upon. Next, cook the chop or steak quickly in the early period ; the reason of this 
 — to keep to our subject, the principles of cookery — is in order that we may surround it 
 with that hard rim that keeps in the flavour. Next, do not be too much afraid of what 
 cooks call " a flare." In fact, err, if possible, on the side of encouraging a flare. Some- 
 times it will be found advisable, when you think the cooking process is not going on suf- 
 ficiently quickly, to drop a little piece of fat or dripping into the fire to make a blaze. The 
 end desired is red inside, Hack out. The difficulty is to know when the chop or steak is 
 done ; and the only proper method to find this out is to pinch the meat. Uncooked meat 
 is flabby, over-cooked meat hard. A well-cooked chop or steak hits the happy medium 
 between these two alternatives. 
 
 The proper thing with which you should turn or test a chop or steak is a pair of cooking 
 tongs, made especially for the purpose. Whatever you do, however, do not cut it to look 
 at it, for in this case you sacrifice all the first principles of cookery, and commit that most 
 deadly sin for a cook — viz., you let out the gravy. Suppose, therefore, you pinch the steak 
 with the tongs, or press it with the side of a fork on the gridiron, and it feels spongy ; this 
 means that the inside is not simply red but blue, and that, therefore, it requires a little 
 longer cooking. Suppose, however, it feels firm, not hard ; this means it is done, and the 
 outside appearance of being black, which, for fear of being misunderstood, we will call 
 being well browned, like the outside of a well-roasted sirloin of beef, should for this very 
 reason have been acquired early in the cooking, as any further attempt to obtain colour 
 would be attended with the risk of over-cooking and, consequently, drying up the meat. 
 
 There are many things best cooked on the gridiron besides chops and steaks ; for 
 instance, kidneys, mushrooms, tomatoes, bloaters, etc. ; but we would here mention one 
 case of the use of the gridiron, not perhaps generally known, and that is of cooking sub- 
 stances wrapped up in oiled paper ; for instance, a slice of salmon grilled. It is, of course, 
 at once apparent that a clear fire is here indispensable. Should any blaze exist, the paper 
 would catch fire, and there would be an end of the attempt. The principles of cooking, 
 however, are here very clearly exemplified. Why should the slice of salmon be wrapped 
 up in this oiled paper ? Simply for the good old reason of keeping in the fiavour. Just 
 as in cooking mutton cutlets en -papiUote, all the fiavour that would otherwise escape is 
 by this means kept in the meat. To grill, therefore, properly, it is requisite that the cook 
 should possess patience. It is no use placing a chop on a gridiron, and leaving it to look 
 after itself for a few minutes. It may, for instance, stick to the gridiron a few seconds 
 after it is put down ; and the smaller the fire and the gridiron the more likely this is to 
 occur. To obviate this possible contingency, a push, if only to move the chop an eighth 
 of an inch, is requisite. Again, if the chop appears to be cooking slowly, lower the grid- 
 iron to the fire ; on the other hand, if it appears to be doing too fast, raise the gridiron ; 
 and, as we have before suggested, if the browning process does not take place as it should, 
 make a flame by means of throwing in a little piece of fat or a little dripping. 
 
 In serving up a chop or steak, it should be borne in mind that, like a souffle, it should 
 be sent up directly. A mutton chop to taste right should almost burn your mouth. This 
 principle is well recognised in some of our public restaurants which possess their " grill 
 room." You cannot warm up a chop or steak any more than you can warm up an omelet. 
 
XVI CASSELL S NEW DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. 
 
 In removing the chop from the gridiron, especially if it be in a flaring state, take care 
 to let it rest for a few seconds in mid-air to let the fat drop from it, as, should it be placed 
 on the dish just as it is, a little of the fat will run off it and give a greasy appearance to 
 the dish that is far from desirable. Of course, too, the dish on which the chop is placed, 
 as well as the cover which goes over it, should be made not merely warm, but hot. 
 
 CLEANLINESS. 
 
 Of all the principles upon which really good cooking depends, there is perhaps none 
 so important as that of cleanliness. I would here remark in passing that real cleanliness 
 is by no means so common as many would imagine, the reason being that often servants 
 do not know how to be properly clean. I will give one very simple example — a wine 
 decanter that looks dull. You will be told it has been thoroughly washed, and perhaps 
 some brush inserted, with great difficulty and loss of time, down the neck. Still the 
 decanter does not look bright. Suppose, however, a person in charge of the glass had 
 been properly instructed — a handful of silver sand put in the decanter with a little water 
 — what a difference ! The decanter, after being well rinsed so as to get rid of every particle 
 of sand, reassumes that bright appearance that it originally possessed when, sparkling 
 on the velvet stand under the sunlight in the window, it tempted the passer-by to enter 
 the shop and purchase it. 
 
 It may seem a rude statement, but nevertheless true, that the ignorance of some 
 persons — especially women — is simply unfathomable. There are cases on record in which 
 attempts have been made to wash greasy things without soda. This ignorance is, of course, 
 rare ; but, too often, cooks wash up incompletely for the sole reason that they will not use 
 enough soda. For this they will assign various causes. They say it chaps their hands, 
 but I would remind cooks that very often they moisten their hands with hot soda and 
 water very unnecessarily. It is easy, with a little management, to avoid strong soda 
 and water touching the backs of the hands and wrists at all, and these are the parts princi- 
 pally affected. A little grease, too^ rubbed on the backs of the hands is a great protection. 
 
 Next to having a clean range and a good fire, it is most important that all pots, pans, 
 saucepans and other cooking utensils should be scrupulously clean. 
 
 To clean an iron saucepan, a pail of hot water, soda, flannel, soap, and sand are re- 
 quired. If there be any soot adhering to the exterior scrape it off with an old knife, then 
 put the saucepan into the water, soap the flannel, sprinkle a little fine sand on it, and 
 wash the utensil well both inside and out, lemoving all grease and remnants of food ; rinse 
 in clean cold water, and dry thoroughly with a dry dish-cloth, as the saucepan will rust if 
 put away damp. The outside, but not the handle, may be blackleaded, the saucepan 
 dusted inside, and placed upside down on the pot-board, so that the air but no dust may 
 enter. 
 
 Another point often omitted is the washing of the lids of the saucepans as well as the 
 saucepans themselves. The saucepan may be perfectly clean ; but many a dish has been 
 spoiled by a dirty lid having been placed on it, the perhaps decomposed flavour of the 
 last ingredients cooked in it dropping down with the condensed steam. 
 
 Take, for instance, ■ the case of a large fish-kettle which will take in a turbot whole 
 or a salmon. Now, the water in which fish has been boiled will often turn to jelly when 
 
CLEANLINESS. Xvii. 
 
 cold, and little pieces of fish are very apt to stick in comers, etc. I would strongly re>- 
 commend every cook, before filling the fish-kettle, to put it for an instant on the fire, just 
 long enough to make it warm ; then smell the kettle ; the warmth will be sufficient toi 
 melt any little congealed particles that may by chance have remained behind. Many in. 
 fine fish has been utterly spoilt, and the fishmonger blamed, when the real party at fault 
 has been the cook. 
 
 To clean the lid, first wash it in a similar manner to the saucepan with soap, soda,, 
 and a little sand ; then apply whitening mixed with water to the consistency of cream ;. 
 let this dry, and polish ofi, taking out the whitening from the crevices with a wooden 
 skewer if necessary. Tin saucepans may be cleaned in the same way as the lids — ^namely, 
 first washed and dried, and then brightened with whitening. 
 
 In washing china and delf it is well to have two vessels — one containing hot water 
 and soda, the other cold. Take care to clean round the handles of cups and jugs. When 
 very hot water is required for washing greasy plates and dishes a mop is necessary, as the 
 plate can then be held a little out of the water and thoroughly cleansed without scalding 
 the hands. Pie-dishes that are burnt and are black at the bottom may be perfectly cleaned 
 with a little silver-sand, and then rinsed in cold water. Dinner-plates, etc., when washed 
 in two waters, should be placed in a rack to drain. If dried in this way they retain a polish. 
 Other articles may be dried with clean soft cloths. China ornamented with gold ought not 
 to be washed in soda and water. 
 
 Equal in importance to having the saucepans and utensils in good condition is the 
 necessity for cleanliness with regard to the pastry-board, rolling-pin, kitchen table, etc: 
 Many cooks use their pastry-boards but little, and may be seen filleting fish, trimming 
 cutlets, and even making cakes and pie-crusts on their kitchen table, while the pastry- 
 board is lying in a corner unused. This is a great mistake. It is much more cleanly,, 
 more orderly, and more business-like to use the pastry-board. The necessary ingredients 
 can be placed near at hand, and thus the kitchen will always be tidy and fit to be seen,^ 
 and much afterwork will be spared. 
 
 To know how to scrub is a necessary accomplishment for anyone who undertakes 
 the care of a kitchen. . Even in cleaning boards there is a right and a wrong way. Have 
 ready a pail of hot water, a scrubbing-brush, some common yellow soap, sand, and a house- 
 flannel. Wring out the flannel loosely, and, if an ordinary kitchen table is being cleaned,! 
 wet half of it at a time ; if a floor, wet as much of it as can be comfortably reached. Sprinkle 
 a little sand on the surface, dip the scrubbing-brush into the water and soap it, scrub the 
 table up and down, till clean, in the direction of the grain of the wood. Then wash the 
 table with the flannel, rolling it over and over to gather up the sand and moisture; Einse,- 
 and dry with a coarse cloth. In the case of pastry -boards, rolling-pins, etc., it is well to 
 place them in the air to dry. Soda should not be used, except for very old boards, as it 
 has a tendency to darken wood; 
 
 Another important point in the principles of cookery for cooks to remember is, to 
 avoid sending things up " smoky." Have your ever tasted a really smoky dish ? — say 
 soup — and have you any idea how it is rendered so ? For the only way to avoid the 
 disaster is to understand the cause. We will suppose the house well ordered, the kitchen 
 chimney swept regularly, the kitchen stove properly cleaned, and the soot regularly and 
 carefully brushed away, not only from the back and sides of the grate, but from the outsides 
 of the saucepans. Yet the soup comes up smoky. 
 
 I will describe the performance of smoking soup. We will suppose the saucepan, 
 
XVIU CASSELLS NEW DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. 
 
 toiling gently on the fire, which is getting somewhat low ; the cook very properly puts 
 on some coals, which, of course, causes the smoke to rise ; shortly afterwards she looks 
 at the soup to see how it is getting on, or whether it is boiling too fast. We will suppose 
 her young and careless ; and she replaces the lid with a bang, and, in so doing, shuts 
 in some of the smoke into the saucepan. Alas ! the deed is done, and the soup, or indeed 
 any other food, ruined, so far as taste goes. 
 
 The moral of all this is. Do not take off the lids of saucepans at all over a smoky fire. 
 There are, of course, many persons to whom these simple elementary truths are so familiar 
 that they may smile at the caution. On the other hand, however, they should recollect 
 it is our duty to teach the ignorant and not the educated ; and we can assure our readers 
 that there are in this country hundreds of so-called cooks, or we may say women who dc 
 the cooking, who have sent up dishes smoky from the very cause we have named, who 
 have not the slightest notion of why they became so. Another way of rendering dishes 
 smoky, even when the fire is fairly clear, is to rest the lid of the saucepan on the hob while 
 its contents are being inspected. 
 
 We would ask some young cook to rest the lid on the hob as we have described, and, 
 instead of re-covering the saucepan, to smell the lid. The lesson would be a very practical one. 
 
 In cooking, as in every other art and science, to be forewarned is to be forearmed. 
 
 We have already called attention to the fact that the palate is considerably affected 
 by the eye ; so also is it affected by the nose. The best illustration of this is a glass of fine 
 old Burgundy or Chateau Margaux claret, in which, in addition to the flavour, and the 
 colour or brightness, we have the magnificent bouquet, which appeals to the palate through 
 the organs of smell. 
 
 Accordingly, it becomes an important principle in cooking to consider not only the 
 flavour and appearance, but also to use the sense of smell as a criterion whether a dish 
 is being properly prepared or not. Who does not recollect occasionally passing outside 
 some large restaurant or first-class hotel and being greeted with a rich perfume arising 
 through the railings, which somehow inspired perfect confidence in the dinner about to 
 be served ? On the other hand, has it been your fate to dine where you have had placed 
 immediately in front of you a dish of greens improperly strained ? To some persons of 
 sensitive palate and nose a dinner is absolutely spoilt by a little contretemps of this kind. 
 
 In the preparation of all dishes, therefore, the cook should constantly bear in mind 
 the importance of using her scent as well as her palate and her eye. Many a good dish 
 has been utterly spoilt by one of the many ingredients which, being bad, has, when added, 
 contaminated the whole — a very little care in smelling would have prevented that. For 
 instance, gravy that has been left, or the remains of beef-tea, is always added to the stock- 
 pot or mixed up with the soup. Now it often happens, especially in hot weather, that 
 little quantities of this kind turn sour, and in fact get putrid. This is easily and instantly 
 detected by smelling. Again, the flavour of anything burnt or smoky is best detected 
 by the nose. Who has not at times had soup served that tastes smoky, or an omelette 
 that tastes burnt ? Here again the nose is the quickest organ to detect the fault — a very 
 good proof of which is the common observation heard in the higher regions, such as the 
 staircase or dining-room, " Ah, there's something burning ! " Sauce piquant, if too acid, 
 can be detected by the smell ; soup too greasy can likewise be detected by the smell, as 
 well as dishes over-spiced ; but experience alone will tell when th^ nose can be used instead 
 of the palate, and it must be borne in mind that good cooks never keep tasting, as the result 
 of that is invariably temporary suspension of palate altogether. 
 
KITCHEN MANAGEMENT. six 
 
 KITCHEN MANAGEMENT. 
 
 Another condition upon which successful cookery depends is the proper management 
 of the kitchen. Now, of all the various points that comprise kitchen management, perhaps 
 none is more important than what we will call " clearing up as you go along." 
 
 Contrast a well-ordered kitchen with a badly-managed one at that trying moment 
 that cooks call dishing up. In the latter you Vill find the cook with a flushed face and 
 hurried manner, surrounded by a perfect chaos of dirty saucepans, dishes, spoons, basins, 
 knives, and forks ; and woe be to that natural enemy of the cook, the Buttons, who speaks 
 to her under these circumstances. " There ! don't bother me ! I don't know which 
 way to turn ! " 
 
 Who has not at some dinner-parties witnessed those awful pauses between the courses, 
 and quite felt for the hostess, whose utmost endeavours to appear unconcerned are 
 but ill-concealed, and whose eyes turn anxiously towards the door through which nothing 
 seems to make its appearance. 
 
 But if the mistress above is to be pitied, much more to be pitied is the maid below, 
 whose flurry of agitation is increased by the footman's " Come, cook, make haste ; they 
 are all waiting ! " 
 
 Now all this confusion arises from want of forethought. The good old maxim, " Never 
 put ofE till to-morrow what can be done to-day," never applies with greater force than in 
 the arrangement of a good dinner. As far as possible let everything be arranged before- 
 hand in proper order. The soup, of course, should always be made beforehand if possible, 
 and be of a nature that will keep. There are so many little things that can only be done at 
 the last moment that it is of the utmost importance that everything which possibly can be 
 done before should be finished and put by. I will give an illustration of a dinner — a very 
 ordinary one — ^in which the cook can have plenty of time to herself at the finish. Suppose 
 now a long dresser neatly covered over with old newspapers, on which are stood in row 
 cooking utensils as follows : — First, a saucepan, containing mock-turtle soup ; second, 
 a stewpan, containing, say, some stewed eels ; third, a tin of oyster patties ; fourth, a 
 stewpan, with some haricot beef ; here a saucepan containing some rich brown gravy, 
 and another in which an onion reposes quietly imbosomed in bread-crumbs and milk. 
 
 Now, all these things might have been placed there hours before dinner. Say the 
 number of persons for dinner is eight. Now, on the dresser in front of the soup-tureen should 
 be placed a pile of eight clean-dusted soup-plates, and a pile of eight ordinary plates in front 
 of every other dish. We will suppose two roast fowls to be twirling round in front of the fire 
 or roasting in the oven, and that the cook, when she put them down, took into her calculations 
 the time it would take to consume the soup, fish, and two entrees of oyster patties and 
 Haricot, and also the average length of delay common to the family : for masters of families 
 who have a trick of ordering dinner at seven o'clock, and coming home at half-past, must 
 put up with two alternatives — one to have dinner regularly half an hour late, the other 
 to have the dinner at times utterly spoilt, from nearly everything being overcooked. 
 
 We might have added to our list a saucepan full of cold water, in which float sufiicient 
 peeled potatoes, and a basin of water, in which float some well-washed brussels sprouts. 
 Now, if a cook arranges all these things a good hour before dinner, has a good clear fire, 
 and every thing, around bright and clean and washed up, I defy her to get into a muddle. 
 
XX cassbll's new dictionary of cookery. 
 
 The soup-tureen and the vegetable-dishes must be filled with boiling water some time 
 before they are wanted. 
 
 If there is a proper plate-warmer the plates can be placed in it at the right moment^ 
 and everything will go straight. 
 
 Some cooks, however, with such a simple httle dinner to arrange as we have described, 
 would, from simple dilatoriness, get into a muddle just at the finish. You will perhaps 
 find them skimming the gravy or making the bread-crumbs all of a hurry when it wants 
 but half an hour to dinner time. 
 
 Another instance in which a little for^hought will save a great deal of trouble is that 
 of pouring a little boiling water into a saucepan directly it comes ofE the fire and is emptied. 
 We shall have, another time, to speak of the enormous power enamel saucepans possess 
 of retaining heat. Now, suppose the cook boils up the gravy, pours it into the hot tureen 
 ready for it, and puts the saucepan down just as it is. The dregs of the gravy cake on it as 
 hard as iron from the action of the heat, and the saucepan requires three times more washing 
 than if the cook had had the common sense to put the saucepan under the boiler tap for a 
 second or two, and given it a rinse round. 
 
 Having now briefly pointed out the outlines of the first principles on which good 
 cookery depends, we will proceed to discuss these principles more in detail. In all large 
 works on cookery it must be borne ininind that recipes are of necessity brief. A certain 
 amount of knowledge on the part of the cook must be pre-supposed. For instance, in 
 cooking fish — say, a fried sole — the directions given would be, " Egg and bread-crimib 
 the sole," etc. I recollect once asking a person of good education (an M.A. of Cambridge) 
 what he would do were he to egg and bread-crumb a fish. He candidly con- 
 fessed he had not the slightest idea ; and on being pressed for an answer, guessed 
 that the best method would be to first boil the egg and chop it fine, etc. Now, 
 of course, this is ignorance of a certain kind, but a very common form of ignorance 
 which, indeed, does not deserve the name. Persons with a little knowledge of a special 
 subject are very apt to laugh at others who, while better educated and better informed 
 generally than themselves, happen to exhibit a little ignorance on that particular subject, 
 which may not be within everybody's province. For instance, a carpenter's apprentice 
 would probably laugh at and feel great contempt for a man who should walk into his 
 workshop and be unable to pick out a jack-plane from the others; For all that, however, 
 this man might be the most brilUant statesman of the age. Again, the greatest living 
 scholar or historian might be supremely ignorant as to the best method of cleaning pewter, 
 and might very possibly be regarded in consequence as a fool by the pot-boy. We consider 
 it, therefore, necessary in our present work to supply for the benefit of absolute novices a 
 few simple directions and explanations which, if given in each recipe, would enlarge the 
 book much beyond reasonable limits. For instance, there is a story on record of a certain 
 royal personage many years ago who remarked that he wondered how the apples were 
 got into the dumpling; Now,- why should an ignorant person any more than an educated 
 one be ashamed of saying, " It is all very well to say, ' Baste it thoroughly,' but what do 
 you mean by ' basting ' ? " Probably any cook of exceedingly elementary knowledge 
 would laugh at the idea of explaining anything so simple. On the other hand, a professed 
 French cook might as well laugh at her for not knowing how to bone a turkey, or to lard 
 a fillet of beef, or make mayonnaise sauce. In teaching cooking, as in teaching every- 
 thing else, the great art for the teacher is to bring down his own mind and thoughts to 
 the level of the pupil. We wish, therefore, in the present work, to take nothing for granted. 
 
GRAVY. 
 
 XXI 
 
 The greatest astronomer commenced his course of study by learning the axioms of Euclid, 
 the first of which is the self-evident fact that " things that are equal to the same thing 
 are equal to one another." There was a period in the Ufe of Francatelli — as of every other 
 cook — when he did not know what it meant to baste a joint, and was ignorant of how 
 to clean a greasy saucepan. 
 
 GRAVY. 
 
 One of the best tests of a good cook, in our opinion, is good gravy. Good gravy should 
 be perfect in all the four following particulars : — ^Flavour, colour, smell, and consistency. 
 How very often, especially in private houses, do you get gravy — or, rather, so-called gravy 
 — in the shape of thin beef-tea, or else it comes up resembling gruel not only in colour, 
 but absolutely in taste ! 
 
 In speaking of gravy, we will first refer to the gravy that is naturally formed in roast- 
 ing a joint ; and secondly, to -that far higher branch of cooking — viz. good gravy served 
 in a small tureen with chickens, ducks, game, etc. 
 
 First, the gravy naturally formed in roasting a joint — say, a leg of mutton. We 
 will compare two legs of mutton as they appear when sent to table, which we will call, 
 respectively, the cheap lodging-house leg, and the gentleman's-house leg. The first will 
 be generally sent to table surrounded with a thick greasy gravy resembling light-brown 
 gruel, and indeed differs but little in appearance, flavour, and consistency from the gravy 
 generally sent up surrounding roast veal. The method pursued is as follows : — First, 
 the joint has been hung up before the fire or placed in the oven in the usual way, a large 
 pan (called the dripping-pan) having been placed underneath it to catch the fat. The 
 joint, having been roasted sufiiciently, has been probably dredged with flour — i.e. some 
 flour has been shaken over it from a round tin box with holes in the lid. After a time, 
 the woman cooking the joint has unhooked it, or taken it out of the oven, and placed it 
 on a dish which ought to be a hot one ; she has then taken a basin and poured off the greater 
 portion of the fat in the dripping-pan into it, leaving the sediment or dregs in the pan. 
 She has then poured a little water into the dripping-pan, and given it a rinse, and poured 
 this into a saucepan or frying-pan ; but as this appears to her too thin, she proceeds to 
 thicken it in the following rough-and-ready way : — She first adds to the contents of her 
 saucepan a tea-spoonful or more of ordinary flour, this latter being first mixed with a little 
 cold water, and the whole is then briskly stirred with a spoon, brought to a boil, and poured 
 over the meat. This is the ordinary elementary and most unscientific method of thicken- 
 ing gravy. There are many small families where the master of the house goes out early 
 every morning, returning home to supper, and where but one joint a week is cooked — 
 viz. the Sunday early dinner. The leg of mutton is the usual joint, and is invariably 
 prepared in the way we have described. 
 
 Now, there are thousands of persons who prefer a leg of mutton cooked this way to 
 any other, just as they would prefer a lettuce with half a pint of vinegar with it, to one 
 dressed with mayonnaise sauce from the hands of a Soyer. It is, perhaps, as well that all 
 our tastes are not alike. The proper method of serving up the gravy is as follows : — 
 Avoid two things — viz. flour and grease. Have you ever seen a spoon dipped in the gravy 
 of a joint, and lifted ? On one side a film of fat hangs. Now, when I see this, the efiect 
 on the appetite is exactly similar to a sudden lurch on board ship, when, after a little 
 
XXll CASSELL'S NEW DICTIONARY OP COOKERY. 
 
 misgiving, you have taken your seat in the cabin at breakfast. We will suppose the leg, as 
 before, sufficiently roasted. Then take the dripping-pan carefully, and pour ofE slowly 
 from a corner of the dripping-pan all the fat into a small basin. At the bottom of the clear 
 hot fat or dripping in the dripping pan wiU be seen a brown sediment. This is really the 
 concentrated gravy, and the cook's object is to pour off all the grease and yet retain the 
 sediment. With a little care this can be done easily. Next place the dripping-pan under 
 the boiler-tap, and pour about half a pint or a little more of boiling water into it, and 
 with an iron spoon simply wash off all the brown streaks and spots on the dripping-pan. 
 These brown marks are really gravy dried up from the action of the heat, and very much 
 resemble in composition what is known as exttact of meat. Having stirred up all the 
 water thoroughly in the well of the dripping-pan, the grav^ can now be poured through 
 a strainer over the joint. This gravy should be clear and bright, and very nearly, free 
 from fat. Of course, some little amount of fat is unavoidable, and this will make its 
 appearance in the shape of wafers during the cooling process which takes place during 
 carving, but if proper care has been exercised the gravy will not be speedily covered with 
 large cakes of fat, nor will that dreadful hanging from the spoon take place, with the result 
 of setting you against your dinner almost before you commence. Some will say, however, 
 " Ah, but you can't get the mutton nice and brown without flouring it at the finish ! " 
 First, I deny this if the fire is really a fierce one ; secondly, if you use flour to brown 
 the joint, I would suggest that it is quite possible to flour the joint without flouring the 
 dripping-pan, by simply taking the latter away, and placing a tin under the meat for a 
 little while. The joint can then be dredged, and pushed closer to the fire at the finishing 
 of the roasting to brown, while the cook goes on with the gravy in the manner we have 
 pointed out. 
 
 I have here again given the ordinary way in which most cooks in fairly well-to-do 
 families cook a plain joint. The gravy to a haunch, loin, or saddle of mutton is obtained 
 in exactly the same manner. It is, however, an improvement to substitute a little broth 
 — I do not mean stock — for the boiling water ; for instance, if there are some trimmings 
 from the joint, including a good-sized bone, place these on the fire in a saucepan with 
 some water and a pinch of salt, and let them simmer as long as you like, taking care there 
 is little or no grease on the top, and use this to pour into the dripping-pan instead of the 
 plain boiling water. If the gravy is wished to be particularly good, stock- — i.e. broth 
 made from meat, flavoured with onion, parsley, celery, etc. — may be used in the case of 
 a joint of beef, but it is really quite unnecessary. In the case of mutton or lamb it is 
 absolutely objectionable. The great desideratum in roast mutton is simplicity. Hot 
 and red from the gravy being in it, and not blue from being underdone, and served as 
 simply as possible in its own gravy, is what the really simple English palate most prefers. 
 
 Recollect, the highest cooking is often the perfection of simplicity. Good beef and 
 mutton give ofi, as a rule, plenty of good gravy. Lamb, veal, and pork but little ; these 
 three latter kinds of meat, which in passing we would mention require longer cooking in 
 comparison to their size than either mutton or beef, should have a little gravy made 
 leparately. Only in the case of lamb, remember, have a very simple broth made from 
 Jamb-bones or mutton-bones, or it will overpower the flavour of the lamb. But in reality 
 lamb does not want much gravy if it is brown and crisp, and has good wholesome mint 
 sauce served with it. 
 
 We next come to the ordinary gravy for roast fowls, chickens, game, etc., the principal 
 difficulty in the preparation of which will generally be foimd to be the thickening ; and 
 
GRAVY. xxiii 
 
 as this question of thickening lies at the root of many failures, both in soups, gravies, 
 jnd entrees, we shall have to dwell on it at some length. This gravy is made from stock. 
 It is, however, of course, impossible to describe everything at once. We are of necessity 
 compelled to use such words as " stock " without describing what stock means. We will 
 treat the subject " stock " more fully another time, in addition to the ample and clear 
 directions given under the letter S. 
 
 We will briefly state stock to be the juice of meat — beef, veal, etc. — extracted by placing 
 it in water, and allowing it to simmer slowly for a long time, extra flavour being imparted 
 to the " meat tea " by the addition of various vegetables and herbs, such as onions 
 parsley, carrots, turnips, celery, etc. Good stock made in the old-fashioned way requires 
 a pound of meat to every quart, and is consequently somewhat expensive. On another 
 occasion we shall point out various methods by which stock can be made without this 
 allowance of one pound to a quart. Now stock, however made, although if done properly 
 is a jelly when cold, is of the consistency of water when hot. By thickening we mean the 
 process by which the stock is brought, when hot, from the consistency of water to that 
 of cream. 
 
 A great many cooks, by means of having plenty of meat placed at their disposal, 
 often succeed in the early stage of gravy— i.e. they get the stock good and strong, although 
 of a poor colour. It is too early yet in our lessons on the Principles of Cookery to descrilbe 
 how good stock may be made to assume a bright golden colour by simply being left to 
 make its own colour in the stock-pot, and consequently it will be more practical to show 
 how to make a light-coloured stock into good brown gravy. We have already described 
 the elementary process of thickening by simply adding flour ; the next stage in advance 
 is flour and butter combined. This is, perhaps, the most common of all methods. A 
 cook will place a smaU amount of butter on a plate, and by its side a little heap of flour. 
 She will place this plate in front of the fire for the butter to dissolve, and will then, with 
 a steel knife, or, if a trifle more advanced in knowledge, with a spoon, knead the butter 
 and flour together, add this to the stock, stirring it in till it boils, when the stock will be- 
 come thick in proportion to the amount of butter and flour put in. By extravagantly 
 using extract of meat, or colouring of some sort, such as sugar, or still worse, a colouring 
 ball, a certain amount of brown colour is imparted to the gravy, which, if the stock is 
 really good and well flavoured and the pepper not forgotten, will be by no means bad. 
 What, however, is the drawback ? The flour has been used raw, and a keen palate will 
 detect the flavour we have mentioned and described as " gruelly." What, however, is the 
 remedy for this ? Let the flour be fried instead of raw ; or, in other words, instead of 
 simply using butter and flour to thicken the stock, use brown thickening, or brown roux 
 as the French call it ; and let me here tell cooks that in the end they will absolutely save 
 both time and trouble by making some of this roux or brown thickening beforehand in 
 a fairly good quantity, as when it is made it will keep for a very long time. 
 
 We all know the difference in the taste of a piece of pie-crust before it is baked and 
 afterwards — one tastes of the flour, the other has a rich taste altogether different. Just 
 such is the difference between ordinary butter and flour and brown thickening. In making 
 thick mock-turtle soup, brown thickening is used to impart that rich flavour which is 
 the characteristic of all thick soups. It would be a most instructive experiment to a 
 young cook if she has a trustworthy taste to try the difference in the flavour of a little 
 good stock or soup ; the one thickened with ordinary butter and flour raw, and the other 
 with brown thickening, which we will now describe how to make at somewhat fuller length 
 
.^xiv cas^ell's new dictionary of cookery. 
 
 than would be justifiable in a recipe wLich, as we have before said, necessarily presupposes 
 a certain amount of knowledge. Suppose, then, a cook to possess some fine dry flour — 
 say, half a poimd — the same quantity of butter, an enamelled stewpan, a clear brisk fire, 
 and an onion. First place the butter in the stewpan, and melt it till it runs to what cooks 
 call oil. It will be found that there is a white scum at the top, and a milky sediment at 
 the bottom. Recollect, melt the butter, but do not boil it — simply melt it. Skim the 
 frothy top, and pour ofi what may be called the clarified butter, leaving the milky sediment 
 in the pan. Now you have got rid of what is often called the milk in the butter. Next 
 take the stewpan, and having wiped it clean, pour back the clarified butter into it, and 
 gradually mix in the dried and sifted fiour : this will make a sort of pudding, which will 
 all cling together, and will not — or ought not if proper care has been taken to follow these 
 directions — cling to the stewpan. Keep this pudding over the fire, and keep stirring with 
 an iron or wooden spoon till it begins to change colour — i.e. it will gradually from being 
 almost white turn to the colour of underdone pie-crust or the covers of those old- fashioned 
 books which treat of mediaeval times. As soon as the colour begins to change, redouble 
 the stirring, and occasionally remove the stewpan from the fire for a few minutes altogether, 
 in order that the flour should not be fried too quickly, for this is really all that is being 
 done. It will be found that the butter and flour will go on boiling in the stewpan for a 
 long time after it has been removed from the fire — ten minutes or more : such is the power 
 enamelled stewpans possess of retaining the heat. Have ready, close at hand, two slices 
 out of the centre of a good-sized onion about a quarter of an inch thick. Keep stirring 
 the butter and flour till it is of a light brown colour, not quite so brown as ripe corn, then 
 take the stewpan ofi the fire, throw in the two slices of onion, which have the double ad- 
 vantage of slackening the heat and of imparting a rich fiavour to the thickening. This _ 
 wiU cause a great spluttering, and care should be taken to avoid a few Httle splashes on 
 the backs of the hands. Keep stirring the mixture till all bubbling has ceased, and this 
 wiU be longer than many would imagine. Pour off what will now be a rich brown fiuid, 
 which will assume the appearance of light chocolate when cold, into a deep dish^old 
 marmalade pots are as good as anything — for use. It will keep for months, and is always 
 at hand for thickening gravy. A good-sized table-spoonful of this mixture, which is called, 
 as we said, brown thickening, or brown roux, will, when mixed with half a pint or a little 
 more of good stock, transform it into good rich brown gravy, which only requires a few 
 additions, varying with what the gravy is intended for, to complete it. If the gravy is 
 intended for roast fowls, for instance, a little mushroom ketchup may be added ; if for game, 
 such as a pheasant, a dessert-spoonful of sherry. The effect of brown thickening in gravy 
 is that not only is the gravy thickened and the raw flavour inseparable from butter and 
 flour avoided, but the important element — colour — is introduced or assisted. You 
 may use half a dozen pounds of meat in making gravy, but if it comes up pale and thin, 
 it will be thought poor. The better the cooks the better do they understand the importance 
 of appearances. Good thick mock-turtle soup owes its rich colour to this thickening, 
 and it is because brown thickening is so rarely made, or the use of it so little understood 
 in private houses, that home-made thick mock-turtle is so invariably poor, although the 
 amount of real calf's head — and not pig's head — used in its preparation is probably 
 double that used in any ordinary pastry-cook's. One great advantage of having brown 
 thickening is, that it is possible to make enough at once to last a couple of months. Gravy 
 is constantly being wanted ; and in the end the cook will find time saved by having the 
 thickening at hand ready made, instead of the plate, the dab of butter, the mixing, the 
 
GRAVY. 
 
 XXV 
 
 uncertainty as to quantity, etc., wiich is her usual wont in melting a little butter and 
 flour fresh, for each occasion. 
 
 As, however, we are on the subject of thickening, by means of brown roux, soups, 
 such as mock-turtle, gravies, etc., it may occur to some to inquire — How would you thicken 
 white soup, such as Palestine soup, oyster soup, etc. ; or. How would you thicken cheap 
 bechamel sauce where no cream is used ? Our answer is — By using white roux instead 
 of brown. But then white roux or white thickening is not necessarily butter and flour 
 just melted together, which, as we have said, has a tendency to give whatever is thickened 
 a raw and gruelly flavour: The cook will have observed in making the. brown thickening 
 what a long time it took before it began to turn colour — in fact, her patience the first time 
 was probably nearly exhausted, and she would very likely confess afterwards, flushed 
 with triumph, that she began to think the " stufi " would never turn colour at all. 
 White roux is simply, to use an Irish expression, brown thickening just before 
 it gets brown ; or, in other words, the grains of raw flour are cooked, but not 
 coloured. 
 
 Now, it is evident that brown thickening is of no use when the substance thickened 
 is required to be clear or bright. Brown gravy and thick mock-turtle soup are what may 
 be called muddy — i.e. they do not pretend to be bright. There are, however, sauces, 
 and even gravies, that should be thick, and at the same time bright and clear. Here, then, 
 it is apparent that we must have some other thickening altogether. We will take as a 
 specimen that exceedingly nice-looking, and at the same time nice-tasting, sauce, called 
 sauce Bordelaise, made from claret ; and as of course any ordinary sound claret will do 
 for the purpose, in the present day of cheap French wine the sauce is by no means so dear 
 as it would have been some years ago. 
 
 To make Bordelaise sauce, you must first have some very good stock, perfectly bright 
 and absolutely free from fat. Take, say, half a pint of such stock, and boil, it down in 
 a small saucepan, in which has. been placed one bead of garlic and a very little piece of 
 mace and cinnamon, with just a suspicion of cayenne pepper. When the stock, by means 
 of being. gently boiled, has evaporated away till there is only one-third of it left, strain 
 it very carefully ofi, and mix it with nearly a tumblerful of claret, and warm it up. It 
 will, of course, be quite thin. Next take a little arrowroot, and mix it with a table- 
 spoonful of cold water in a cup ; stir it, and mix it in gradually with the sauce, which must 
 be just simmering on the fire. As soon as the sauce gets as thick as prepared gum or very 
 thin treacle, it is done. The sauce should, however, be as bright as claret itself. This 
 sauce does for a variety of purposes, such as sweetbreads, boiled fish, or even .cold meat 
 may be cut in slices and warmed up in it. The advantage of arrowroot as a thickening 
 is very marked in this sauce, as the brightness of the colour is not in the least destroyed, 
 and the exact consistency liked can easily be obtained by simply adding a little at a time, 
 and keeping the sauce well stirred and simmering. Eecollect, however, in, using arrow- 
 root as a means of thickening, always to mix it with cold water in a cup, and stir it up 
 before taking any out, or the arrowroot will settle and cake at the bottom of the cup. 
 Arrowroot is the best thickening when clearness is desirable ; there are many kinds of 
 gravies, however, which are necessarily clear, and yet which are ill-adapted to bear brown 
 thickening. The gravy for ordinary hashed mutton is one. Colour can be imparted by 
 browning a little sliced onion with a little butter in a frying-pan, or by means of burnt 
 brown sugar and water, or toasted bread. This gravy is best thickened with corn-flour 
 or arrowroot, as mutton previously cooked is not savoury enough to bear the rich flavouring 
 
CASSELL S NEW DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. 
 
 of brown thickening like roast goose, or duck, or fowl. Colouring from sugar is made 
 by simply melting some coarse brown sugar in an old frying-pan till it looks like 
 blood, and tten pouring some boiling water on it, and stirring it till it is dissolved. 
 
 Colouring-balls for soups, gravies, etc., are sold in bottles, and are made in France 
 from vegetables, but they vary considerably, and sometimes impart by no means an agree- 
 able flavour to the soup or gravy. Used with caution, however, they are at times very 
 valuable; as a little piece will go a long way ; but I will defer going into the question of 
 colouring soups until we enlarge on that most important branch of cooking — viz. letting 
 stock colour itself, by being reduced to a glaze in the making, which is far preferable to 
 any artificial means. 
 
 There is one most important point which the cook should always bear in mind when, 
 brown thickening is used for either soup or gravy, and that is, removing the fat or butter 
 which will always rise to the surface of the soup or gravy after boiling. Should this important 
 point be omitted, the gravy or soup ladle might possibly have a film of fat hanging from it 
 similar to what we have already described as happening to the gravy from a roast joint 
 when the cook has been careless in pouring ofE the grease. After the -gravy or soup has 
 been thickened, allow it to boil up, and then stand it on one side of the fire. In a very 
 few minutes a film of grease from the butter in the thickening will make its appearance 
 on the top, and requires removing ; this must be repeated several times. The safest 
 method is to allow the gravy or soup to simmer gently, when it will gradually as it is 
 said " throw up the grease." If, then, when the liquid is simmering, it be occasionally 
 skimmed, all fear of greasy gravy or soup is removed. The same process applies in using 
 white thickening. Suppose you have thickened some Palestine soup, which is made from. 
 Jerusalem artichokes, allow the thickened soup to boil. The top will have a yellow, oily 
 appearance, owing to the butter in the thickening. This must be skimmed off ; but even 
 after all has been skimmed, by allowing the soup to simmer gently some inore probably 
 will be thrown up. Some cooks have an idea that if when they have made some soup they 
 allow it to get cold, and then remove all the fat that cakes on the top, it is impossible 
 for there to be any more fat in the soup at all. This is a great fallacy, easily made manifest 
 by allowing the soup, after the fat has been removed, to boil up again. On its getting cold 
 a fresh cake of fat will appear if the soup was at all greasy. Soup made from pig's head 
 will somewhat astonish a young cook on this point. 
 
 We have already explained that the chief reasons for preferring brown thickening 
 to flour and butter melted together are the appearance and the flavour — i.e. the latter 
 causes the gravy not merely to look gruelly, but to taste so. It will, of course, often 
 happen that, notwithstanding the cook's best endeavours to be prepared for emergencies, 
 at times gravy will be wanted in a hurry, and yet no brown thickening is at hand for the 
 purpose of converting the thin stock into thick gravy. In this case, a small quantity 
 can be easily made in a very short time, which, though not as a rule equal in quality to 
 that made in the way we have described, will at any rate be far preferable to the ordinary 
 plain butter and flour. The method is simply to melt sufficient butter and flour together 
 in a saucer, place the saucer in the oven, and occasionally stir it ; the flour soon becomes 
 baked, which avoids the gruelly taste ; next, the flour soon becomes of a light fawn colour 
 at the top, and after the saucer has been stirred a few times the whole quantity will assume 
 the colour required. Indeed, some persons make brown thickening in large quantities 
 in a pie-dish, and place it in the oven, taking it out at times, and stirring it. The stewpan 
 is, however, we think, a far preferable method. 
 
STOCK. xxvu 
 
 We have in speaking of gravies confined our attention almost entirely to the thick- 
 ening, which, as we have pointed out, is the chief point on which cooks break down. Of 
 course, the exact consistency to which gravy must be brought is another important point 
 which must be left entirely to the cook's judgment. The advantage of having brown 
 thickening ready is that only small quantities need be added at a time. The cook, con- 
 sequently, has only to exercise a little patience — i.e. to stir the thickening well in, see that 
 it is all dissolved and that the gravy boils gently, to avoid the common but unpardonable 
 fault of having the gravy too thick. Good brown gravy should be of the consistency of 
 cream at the outside, and never thicker — if, indeed, so thick. It would be almost impossible 
 to describe all the various methods of flavouring gravies in order to suit them to the dishes 
 with which they are served, but we may mention here that there is perhaps no method 
 of bringing out and at the same time improving the flavour of good gravy equal to that 
 of adding at the last moment a good slice of raw lean ham ; and when we say lean we 
 mean a slice absolutely destitute of fat. Another very good addition to gravy is part 
 of the pulp of a fresh ripe tomato, especially when the gravy is intended for some dish 
 with which tomato sauce would not be inapplicable, such as roast fowl. When a fresh 
 tomato cannot be obtained, a spoonful of tomato sauce will answer just as well. We would, 
 however, particularly caution cooks against the indiscriminate use of Worcester sauce, 
 as this particular sauce is so powerful, that when used for gravy, unless added with the 
 greatest caution, it is apt to overpower the flavour of everything else. Again, the stewpan 
 or small saucepan used for warming up the gravy can be rubbed with a bead of garlic 
 when this somewhat strong flavouring is not objected to. 
 
 STOCK. 
 
 In describing the general principles upon which all good cooking depends, it will be 
 seen that we have dwelt at some length on thickening, and have described the proper 
 method of making brown thickening, or brown roux, and white thickening, or white roux. 
 We win next proceed to discuss the proper method of preparing stock, and the two chief 
 stock sauces — viz. white sauce and brown sauce, which require in their composition the 
 white roux and brown roux respectively. It may possibly be thought that a description 
 of the proper method of making stock should have preceded the description of the thick- 
 ening ; bear in mind, however, that in preparing any dinner, the thickening should be 
 made before the stock, and also, that whereas there is but one method to be pursued in 
 making thickening, there are necessarily many different ways of preparing stock. We have 
 purposely, therefore, impressed upon our readers the great importance of making thick- 
 ening in the way we have described, as upon it will, to a very great extent, depend the 
 whole character of the soups, gravies, sauces, etc., the recipes for which are given in the 
 present work. We will, therefore, presume the cook to have at any rate mastered this 
 part of the subject before we proceed to discuss such an extremely important branch of 
 cookery as stock. Stock is necessarily a branch of the art approached by everyone with 
 the slightest pretension to any knowledge of the subject with a certain amount of preconceived 
 opinion. We would, by way of preface, however, remind our readers that the better the 
 cooks, probably the more willing will they be to admit that they have much to learn. 
 Cooking in its higher branches is a science, and the most scientific cook that ever served 
 
XXVIU CASSELL'S NEW DICTIONARY OF COOKEBY. 
 
 up a Parisian banquet could probably learn something new from tbe ignorant savage who 
 chews strange herbs to help him to digest the meat that his intellect has not sufficiently 
 expanded to enable him to cook. 
 
 But we must commence our stock, and as it is obvious that the method of preparing 
 stock for a large hotel and for a family consisting of only two must be widely difEerent, 
 we will first describe how to make stock in large quantities. First, common stock, then 
 the two principal stock sauces, brown and white, the first being used to make the other 
 two. 
 
 Take of top ribs, or shoulder, or leg of beef, in the proportion of twenty pounds of 
 meat to twenty quarts of cold water. Add whatever bits or scraps of fresh beef, veal, 
 or chicken there may be ; salt slightly, and let it gradually come to boiling point. Before 
 it boils skim it carefully, then add another pint of cold water, afterwards removing all 
 the scum as it rises to the surface. Let it simmer gently near the fire, and add (for the 
 quantity stated) four carrots, four leeks, two turnips, one parsnip, a head of celery, and 
 two onions, into one of which stick two cloves. Add a few peppercorns. No other flavour- 
 ing should be put into the pot. Special care must be taken that it boils very gently, so 
 as to preserve the liquor clear and maintain its flavour. It is a mistake to cook the meat 
 to shreds under the belief that the flavour is improved. From three to four hours sufiices 
 to extract all the juices, and leaves the meat in such a condition as to permit of it being 
 employed in the making of several excellent dishes. When the meat is cooked, it must 
 be taken out of the pan at once. The vegetables should also be taken out at the same time, 
 and, as they are far better than those boiled in water, they can be used to great advantage. 
 The beef and vegetables having been removed, the stock must be allowed to stand for 
 a few minutes to permit any deposit to settle. Then remove the scum and pass the stock 
 through a cloth into an earthenware basin, which should be placed in the open air or 
 in some dry place to cool. It is now the stock which forms the basis of consommes 
 and many other preparations. It should be clear and light, and of a yellow colour. 
 
 It may here be advisable to look, in a general way, at what is done to make ordinary 
 stock. It is simply beef placed with the few vegetables mentioned, and the whole gently 
 simmered for some hours, care, as we have said, being taken to skim at intervals, and to 
 avoid fast boiling. What probably will at once excite the attention of ordinary cooks 
 is the absence of flavouring, but this is the very point we would have them bear in mind. 
 They too often in making stock simply make a highly-seasoned soup. Good stock shoxdd 
 not be seasoned, as it may be wanted for a variety of purposes where seasoning would be 
 objectionable. EecoUect, soup is made from stock by adding flavouring, etc., to the stock ; 
 when, therefore, it is possible, make the stock as simple as possible, and add to it afterwards 
 what is considered necessary, which, of course, will depend upon the nature of the soup 
 or gravy that has to be made. 
 
 We will now proceed to describe how brown sauce and white sauce are to be made in 
 what we may call wholesale quantities; 
 
 Take two large copper stewpans, and see that they are perfectly well tinned. Butter 
 the bottom of each, and cover them with slices of thin lean ham, then add the veal pre- 
 viously saved, placing half in each stewpan, and put in one stewpan the carcases of some 
 wild rabbits, the best part of the meat of the rabbits being reserved for some entrees, and 
 in the other stewpan an old hen or the carcases of some fowls. The stewpan in which the 
 rabbits have been placed is intended for the brown sauce, and the one in which the fowl 
 has been placed for the white sauce. Pour in sufficient of the stock previously made to 
 
STOCK. xxix 
 
 cover th.e meat, and place tlie two stewpans on the fire, of course covered, to boil quicMy. 
 We now have to subject the contents of these two stewpans to a process very similar to 
 the brown and white roux — viz. we have to allow one to cook till it turns a bright golden 
 colour, and we have to remove the other from the fire just before it begins to alter in appearance. 
 
 First, the brown sauce : what is necessary is to allow it to boil away till it becomes 
 a sort of gum, which will gradually turn a beautiful reddish-brown ; the great difficulty 
 being for the cook to know when to slacken the heat of the fire. If the stewpan be allowed 
 to remain on the fire too long the glaze (for such is the stock called when boiled down to a 
 gummy consistency) will become burnt, and the flavour of the stock very much destroyed. 
 On the other hand, if the cook does not allow the stewpan to remain on the fire long enough 
 the proper colour will not be obtained, and the result will be that in order to attain that 
 colou-t recourse will be had to colouring of some kind or another, which should always be 
 avoided if possible. 
 
 The cook consequently must carefully watch, and as soon as the liquid begins to turn 
 colour must slacken the heat, and allow the glaze to gradually deepen in colour till it has 
 that reddish-brown appearance we have described ; then fill up the stewpan with some 
 common stock, and add to it a couple of onions in which a few cloves have been stuck, 
 a carrot, a small piece of mace, some parsley, green onions, a bay -leaf, and a little thyme. 
 Let all this sirmner gently, taking care to skim it from time to time. After gemtly boiling 
 for about two hours, strain the whole through a sieve, and put it by for use, removing 
 every particle of fat when the stock has got cold. The white sauce being treated and 
 added to in exactly a similar manner, with the one exception that the glaze is not allowed 
 to turn colour. Thus, the sauces should be quite clear, though it will often happen that 
 perfect clearness has not been attained ; the clearing process we will consequently describe 
 by-and-by. 
 
 Sauces are, however, seldom required bright and liquid ; the brown roux and white 
 roux must consequently be added respectively to the brown sauce and white sauce to 
 render them the requisite thickness. Having added the roux to each in sufficient quantity 
 to obtain the desired consistency, recollect to allow them to boil a sufficient time for the 
 butter contained in the roux to be thrown up, and removed by skimming. Both sauces 
 can then be sent through a tamis or cloth, and put by for use, this last process rendering 
 them smooth and more velvety in appearance. 
 
 We may add before going further that one very good method of ascertaining when 
 the glaze is ready for filling up is to stick a knife in it, and give it a twirl ; should the glaze 
 adhere to the knife, and be in that state in which it can be rolled up into a ball in the hands 
 without sticking to the fingers, and at the same time be of the desired colour, it shows 
 that it is sufficiently advanced for the stock to be added. 
 
 Now, in the preparation of all large dinners where a great variety of dishes have to 
 be prepared, it would be impossible even to commence until a considerable quantity of 
 brown sauce and white sauce are ready made and put by for use. 
 
 In French works on cookery this brown sauce we have described is called sauce Espagnole, 
 and the white sauce vdouU. Cooks will readily see that in cases where, perhaps, twelve 
 or more difierent kinds of entrees have to be made, what an enormous saving of time it 
 is to have two such rich sauces ready at hand. Indeed, in all works of cookery it will often 
 be found that directions are given as follows :— " Add a ladleful of brown sauce." It is 
 evident that it would be impossible for the cook to commence to make, and go through 
 the process of making, brown sauce for the sake of one ladleful. 
 
XXX CASSELL'S NEW DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. 
 
 We have described how to make ordinary stock, and brown and white gravy, both 
 thick and thin, from raw meat ; but it should be borne in mind that in all large establish- 
 ments, as well as in small private houses, there is much left of cooked meat, bones, car- 
 cases of fowls and game, etc., which will materially help to fill up the stock-pot. The 
 bones of large joints, such as sirloin of beef, or haunch of mutton, ought never to be thrown 
 away, but should be added to the raw bones in the stock-pot. Indeed, meat that has 
 been roasted helps greatly to increase the flavour of good stock. 
 
 When, therefore, we recommend carcases to be added, such as rabbits, fowls, etc., 
 it is assumed that such carcases have been at any rate partially cooked, and the best part 
 of the meat removed for other purposes. In cases, however, where an old hen or a very 
 old bird, such as a partridge, evidently too tough to be eaten, is added, it is always best 
 to partially roast it before placing it in the stock-pot. An old hen that has been a most 
 serviceable bird in its day, when it ceases to lay eggs is, as a rule, far too tough for any 
 purpose save that of the stock -pot ; and old birds like this, that make the best soup, can 
 sometimes be bought as low as Is. or Is. 6d. a-piece. 
 
 In small houses, cooks should endeavour to do on a small scale what we have shown 
 is done in great hotels on a large scale. First, the common stock, made from any bones 
 and pieces of cooked meat left, should be put on with some gravy-beef and, if possible, 
 a, knuckle of veal, the best part of the meat of the veal being cut off to use in transform- 
 ing the common stock into good soup or gravy. 
 
 In choosing meat for making stock it will always be fcmnd best to pick out the very 
 freshest-killed possible, and bear in mind that meat should never be washed before it is 
 used. In fact, that part of the meat which contains the greatest amount of real flavour 
 is soluble in cold water ; consequently, meat that had been washed would never make such 
 good stock as meat that had not. 
 
 When stock has been made from fresh meat free from fat, and when there has been 
 no great preponderance of bones, if care has been taken — first, that the stock did not boil 
 too furiously ; secondly, that the stock was strained ofi carefully and through a fine cloth 
 — it will generally be found that the stock will be clear enough for all ordinary purposes. 
 Sometimes, however, it will be found that, notwithstanding every precaution, the stock 
 will present a cloudy appearance ; or again, sometimes it may be wished that the stock 
 should be not merely clear, but absolutely bright. When such is the case, the best method 
 of clearing stock is as follows :— We will suppose the quantity of stock required to be cleared 
 to be two quarts. Take the whites of two eggs separated from the yolks, and be very 
 careful that no tinge even of yolk be with them. Place these two whites in a basin, breaking 
 up and adding the egg-shells if clean, and add nearly a tumblerful of cold water, and mix 
 it well up till the whole froths on the top, then pour this into the saucepan or vessel in 
 which the stock is, which ought not, however, to be boiling at the time. Mix it all well 
 up, and place the saucepan on the fire to boil. While it gently boils, skim it thoroughly, 
 then stir it all up aga^n, let it stand some little time, and then strain it through a fine cloth, 
 or, better still, a thick flannel jelly-bag. By this means quite cloudy stock can be rendered 
 as bright as sherry, only bear in mind that every particle of fat should first be removed 
 from the stock. 
 
 We will now proceed to discuss the best method of making stock without the use 
 of fresh meat at all. It should be borne in mind that in the present day the prices of pro- 
 visions have so much increased, and also show such an upward tendency, that it is very 
 desirable for every family throughout the country to do their utmost to save consumption 
 
STOCK. 
 
 of meat, thereby doing wliat little they can towards rendering meat cheaper to others 
 who may not be possessed of so much wealth as themselves. Where the bones of joints 
 that are left are thrown away and given to -dogs, and fresh meat bought in quantities for 
 making soup, it is evident that a large amount of nutritive matter is absolutely wasted, 
 which under other management would support the life of many starving persons. 
 
 We will now take the very common case of a leg of mutton bone being left, and 
 will describe how to turn it into stock, though at the same time we must, of course, admit 
 that the result would not be equal to the stock made from the fresh gravy-beef and veal. 
 
 First, take the leg of mutton bone and chop it up into small pieces with a hatchet, 
 and place these bones in cold water in a saucepan, with a good handful of fresh green parsley, 
 a good large onion in which two or three cloves have been stuck, a carrot, or two small 
 carrots, one turnip, if young — ^but do not put in any during very hot weather, or when they 
 are old and sweet — one head of celery, or, if no celery is in season, a little celery -seed (about 
 one-third of a salt-spoonful, or about enough to cover a threepenny piece), a small pinch 
 of thyme, a little cayenne pepper, and a little salt ; also, if they can be obtained, a couple 
 of leeks. 
 
 Let all this simmer gently for three or four hours, and then strain it off into a large 
 basin. We are supposing sufficient water to have been added to make the quantity when 
 strained off about two quarts. Then add to this a good tea-spoonful of extract of meat ; 
 this will not merely have the efiect of making the stock richer and more nutritious, but 
 will also very materially assist the colour, as the leg of mutton bone was not in itself sufficient 
 to enable the cook to boil down the stock to a glaze, and to obtain a colour by that means. 
 
 By this method an exceedingly palatable and nice stock is obtained, that can be 
 thickened for gravy with brown thickening, or can have various ingredients added to it, 
 such as yoimg vegetable cut up, macaroni, vermicelU, etc., to transform it into excellent 
 soup. 
 
 Good stock, when it is cold, should form a jelly, owing to the presence of the gelatine 
 in the meat or the bones used ; indeed, stock made from bones alone will often be found 
 to be a harder jelly than stock made from meat alone, owing to the fact that bones contain 
 a great quantity of gelatine. Now, in making stock, we have referred to extract of meat 
 — one of the most useful of modern inventions — that has not only assisted the cook, but 
 the doctor. Good beef-tea is in reality a very plain stock made from gravy-beef, with- 
 out the assistance of the few herbs we have named. Beef-tea when cold, if properly made, 
 is, like good stock, a firm jelly. 
 
 Of late years, extract of meat has been largely used as a substitute for gravy-beef, 
 as a quick method of making beef-tea where the absence of meat, or lack of time, have 
 rendered its substitution desirable. It is not our province to discuss the respective merits 
 of beef-tea made from meat, and that made from its extract. Medical men, however, 
 are unanimous in their opinion that where the former cannot be obtained, the latter is a 
 most valuable substitute. We will, however, show how stock can be made quickly — 
 say, at a quarter of an hour's notice — without using either gravy-beef or bones. 
 
 We would first remind our readers that extract of meat when dissolved in water is 
 a thin liquid, and however great the quantity of extract used, the mixture exhibits no 
 symptoms of becoming a jelly. This is simply owing to the absence of gelatine. We 
 will now take the extremely common case of a little stock being required at almost a moment's 
 notice to make a little soup. For instance, an unexpected stranger has arrived, when, 
 unfortunately, the mistress of the house feels conscious that the dinner happens to be 
 
xxxii cassell's new dictionary of cookery. 
 
 what is called a made-up one. Under these circumstances the cook who can improvise 
 an extra dish or two is a valuable one ; but as we are speaking at present on the subject of 
 stock, we will confine our directions to the instantaneous manufacture of that necessary- 
 basis of all culinary operations. We will suppose the house, or at any rate an adjacent 
 grocer's, to contain some extract of meat and some gelatine. Most houses likewise have 
 at hand a few onions and some parsley. Let the cook proceed as follows : — Take an onion, 
 and having peeled and split it into two, stick two or three cloves in it, and place it in a 
 saucepan of water with a good bunch of parsley, a little salt and cayenne pepper, and a 
 small quantity of gelatine — about a quarter of one of those little packets generally sold 
 by grocers for making jelly — let all this boil till the gelatine is dissolved, and then strain 
 it off into a basin, taking care in straining it to press the onion and parsley so as to squeeze 
 as much as possible the goodness out of them. If any celery-seed happens to have been 
 in the house, a very little may have been added, only care should be taken not to put too 
 much in, as the flavour is exceedingly strong. Having then strained ofE this Uquid, add 
 to it about a tea-spoonful of extract of meat, and stir it all up till the extract is dissolved ; 
 after which taste it often, as the addition of extract of meat entails the addition of more 
 salt, and as extract of meat unfortunately varies both in flavour and goodness, it is difiicult 
 to give any exact quantities to be used. We now have a very fair stock, which indeed 
 may be sent up as soup just as it is. It is, of course, perfectly pure from grease, and should 
 be, if the gelatine be good, perfectly bright ; the stock is, however, by no means equal 
 in flavour to that made from meat, and consequently a good cook would, if possible, take 
 advantage of anything in her possession to impart a little additional flavour. Now, for 
 this purpose, nothing is better than a few fresh tarragon leaves, or, if fresh tarragon leaves 
 cannot be obtained, a very small pinch of dried tarragon can be put in with the parsley, 
 which will have the efiect of imparting the flavour ; but it should be strained off with 
 the onion, etc., whereas the fresh tarragon may be served up in the soup. Stock thus 
 made can, of course, have vermicelli or anything else added to it should a perfectly plain 
 soup not be wished. There are, however, a number of persons who have the mistaken 
 notion that a thin soup is of necessity poor. If by chance you are aware of their ignorance 
 it is as well to remind the cook to thicken the soup, which can be done, as previously directed, 
 in a very few moments by boiling in it a little arrowroot, mixed up and well stirred in a 
 little cold water. When this is done, be careful not to over-thicken the soup, or the deception, 
 becomes too apparent ; enough arrowroot should be added to make the soup appear of the 
 consistency of thin prepared gum. 
 
 Very often in private houses stock is made from the water in which mutton has been 
 boiled. Now, of course, mutton will not make by any means the same quality of stock 
 that beef or veal will, and consequently stock made from mutton should, when possible, 
 be reserved for certain kinds of soup, such as oyster soup ; but we will refer to this subject 
 more fully when we come to speak on soups in general, and will now conclude our remarks 
 on stock with general directions for the removal of fat and grease, which is very often a 
 great difficulty with young and inexperienced cooks. 
 
 First, cooks should bear in mind that there are different kinds of grease — one hard, 
 the removal of which gives comparatively little trouble ; another soft, and held in solution 
 by the stock, which is far more difficult to remove. To illustrate what we mean, we will 
 contrast the stock made, say, from boiling a leg of mutton, and that made by boiling a 
 pig's head. If both are allowed to get cold, the mutton Stock will be found to be covered 
 with a coating of fat as hard almost as wax, and the broth underneath will, when this fat 
 
STOCK. xxxiii 
 
 has been removed, be entirely free from grease. Not so, however, the other ; the pork 
 stock will likewise be found to be covered with fat, not so hard ; but when that has been 
 removed the stock itself will still be very greasy. Again, stock made from bones containing 
 gristle and soft fat is often greasy, even after it has got cold ; so, too, with the liquor in 
 which bacon or ham has been boiled, though nothing can be better than lean ham to flavour 
 stock. When lean and fat are mixed together, the stock becomes often so saturated with 
 grease as to be almost useless. When, therefore, stock is in this state — viz. that it holds 
 fat in solution — the only method by which the fat can be got rid of is by placing the stock 
 on the fire, and allowing it to simmer gently ; while it is simmering the cook should from 
 time to time carefully skim it. The longer this process is continued the freer will the stock 
 be from fat. When butter has been in any way mixed with stock or soup, as in the case 
 of using the brown or white thickening, this is the only method by which it can be got 
 rid of again. In fact, cooks would do well to disabuse their minds of the fallacy that if 
 stock is allowed to get cold the fat hardens on the top, and that consequently if this be 
 removed it is impossible for a particle of fat to remain. Such is not the case, and as one 
 fact is worth fifty arguments we should recommend them to try the simple experilnent 
 — when they get a somewhat greasy stock — of letting it get cold, removing all the fat, 
 and then putting on the stock to boil again for, say, an hour. They will find that when 
 the stock gets cold for the second time, there will be almost as much fat on the surface 
 as before. 
 
 Another important little art in which good cooks ought to excel is the removal of 
 grease from small quantities of stock or gravy without letting it get cold, and without 
 going through that somewhat laborious and wasteful process when only small quantities 
 have to be dealt with — of skimming. 
 
 Some cooks have a great knack of blowing the grease off stock. Recollect, we do not 
 recommend the custom, but simply refer to it ; the stock or gravy is poured out into a 
 small basin, so that the surface of the stock is nearly on a level with the edge of the basin. 
 In a very few minutes the grease will rise to the top, looking hke oil floating on the surface. 
 By blowing gently, this oil can be driven to one side of the basin, then tilting the basin 
 and holding it, say, over the sink, by allowing a little to be blown over the edge, in a very 
 short time all the grease can be got rid of with, comparatively speaking, a very small sacri- 
 fice of stock. The method is ingenious, and very often resorted to by cooks. The objection 
 is the natural one against blowing, many objecting to it on account of its not being an 
 altogether cleanly custom. 
 
 A better and perfectly unobjectionable plan is using blotting-paper — or, indeed, any 
 rather rough kind of paper — for the purpose. Of course, if there is any very large quantity 
 of grease floating on the surface the best part of it must be removed by skimming ; as long 
 as there is plenty of grease, then skimming is easy enough, but it is when the stock gets 
 down to that state in which it is not covered with large pools of fat, so to speak, as large 
 as the bowl of a spoon, but is dotted over with little round specks of fat ranging in size 
 from a pea to a pin's head. When the stock has got into this state, continuous skimming 
 only wastes it, and very little impression is made on the grease. Now, what is wanted 
 is to remove the surface only. Get, therefore, a piece of white blotting-paper, or even a 
 clean piece of common brown paper, and let this just touch the surface, the grease will 
 adhere to the paper, and by using a few pieces of dry paper one after the other, the whole 
 of the grease can be removed. This method of removing fat will be found to be particularly 
 useful in preparing beef-tea for invalids. Beef-tea is often wanted in a hurry, and there is 
 
 d 
 
xxxiv CASSELL'S SEW DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. 
 
 probably no time to allow it to get cold, yet it is of the greatest importance that every 
 particle of fat be removed, for nothing looks so bad as to see by the bedside of a sick 
 person beef-tea covered with wafers of fat. The cook should consider such a circumstance 
 as a positive disgrace. 
 
 One very important point in reference to stock, soups, gravies, etc., is their preservation. 
 Of course, in cold, frosty weather stock will keep for almost any time, but in hot weather 
 stock is very apt to turn sour or high. Suppose you leave some stock in the larder over- 
 night a firm jelly, and the weather, say, is very warm ; if in the morning when you come 
 down you find it has altered in appearance, and instead of being a jelly it looks watery 
 in some parts and lumpy in others, you may rest assured that the stock has turned bad. 
 
 There is, however, one method by which stock can be preserved far longer than it 
 otherwise would be, and that is by being boiled up afresh every day. In winter this is 
 not necessary, but in summer should any stock, soup, or gravy be left, and a day pass 
 without its being wanted, the cook should always put it in a saucepan, boil it up, and then 
 place it in a fresh clean basin, and when cold, or nearly so, put it back in the larder or safe 
 where it is generally kept. I say when it is nearly cold advisedly, for cooks should always 
 avoid putting hot stock or soup in the larder where other things are kept. In the first 
 place, the heat tends to raise the temperature of the larder, and, still worse, the steam that 
 rises from the hot stock has a tendency to make the larder foul, thus probably affecting 
 the flavour of some of the other dishes. 
 
 Before leaving the subject of stock there is one more kind to which we would refer, 
 and that is fish stock. Few persons are aware how exceedingly nutritious a stock can 
 be made from fish. For instance, from a turbot. Very often, the water in which a large 
 turbot has been boiled, when it gets cold is firm jelly. 
 
 In preparing fish stock as a basis for fish soups of various kinds, it will be found best, 
 if possible, to have half the fish from which the stock is made fresh-water fish and half 
 sea-fish. In preparing the stock the greatest attention should be paid to the skimmings. 
 Fish contains a large quantity of albumen, which, being disengaged, coagulates and rises 
 to the surface, carrying with it many of the little impurities of the fish ; this should be 
 skimmed ofi as it rises. In straining off the stock after the fish has been removed^-for in 
 almost every instance of making fish stock the fish is taken out and eaten separately — 
 care should be taken not to empty the fish-kettle down to its dregs. After the stock has 
 been strained ofE it should be put on again to boil partly away, an onion with three or 
 four cloves in it and a little parsley being added, some salt, of course, having been put 
 in with the fish. The stock should also have added to it an anchovy, pounded thoroughly 
 in some butter ; this should be added to the stock and dissolved in it ; the anchovy having 
 an extraordinary efiect in bringing out the fiavour. Should there be any oil, it should 
 be carefully taken ofi. If cod-fish is part of the fish used for making the stock, the cod's 
 liver should be boiled separately, as that gives ofi a very large quantity of oil — cod-liver 
 oil, in fact — which would have the efiect of rendering the stock exceedingly disagreeable. 
 
 Recollect, however, that fish stock, especially in hot weather, will not keep. 
 
SOUP. 
 
 XXXV 
 
 SOUP. 
 
 We now come to consider soups in general, and we will divide them into three classes 
 -clear, thick, and purees. Clear soups are, of course, as the word imphes, bright as well 
 as thm ; thick soup is generally of the consistency of ordinary cream, or not quite so thick 
 and IS, of course, not transparent. By a puree we do not necessarily mean a soup of a 
 thicker consistency than ordinary thick soup, but we would distinguish between thick soups 
 and purees as follows :— A thick soup owes its consistency to the addition of some artificial 
 thicken ng, such as brown roux, arrowroot, etc. ; a puree owes its consistency to the fact 
 that the ingredients have been rubbed through a tamis or a wire sieve. This latter dis- 
 tinction is of the utmost importance. Unfortunately, we have no English word that 
 conveys exactly the same idea as the French word puree, and consequently we are often 
 obliged to use the word soup where the word puree would convey a better meaning. ' For 
 instance, pea-soup should really be called puree of peas ; Palestine soup, puree of arti- 
 chokes. 
 
 The first soup known to humanity was probably composed of milk and grain. Before 
 the art of making bread was known, a nutritious food was obtained from crushed seeds 
 added to the milk of domestic animals. This was the first step in culinary art. As 
 civilisation advanced new methods were adopted, and some of these were of so singular 
 a combination that the very mention of them in the present day excites a feehng of dis- 
 gust. In the reign of Louis XIV. an immense variety of soups was served at the same 
 repast, and one called " soupe a la moutarde " was partaken. of with relish. It included 
 among its ingredients fried eggs, mustard, ginger, sugar, and spices, the whole boiled in 
 water or broth and flavoured with vinegar. 
 
 Soup has always been appreciated as an article of food, and now that greater care 
 is given to its preparation it ranks first among ahments. Nothing can be better than 
 soup to aid digestion, especially at an evening meal ; it prepares the way for more solid 
 substances, and prevents their having a bad effect on the stomach. 
 
 As we have already described how to make good strong stock, and also how to clear 
 it, our remarks with regard to clear soup must be almost entirely confined to the ingredients 
 that are added to the stock, and give rise to the various names by which soups are distin^ 
 guished. For instance, vermicelli soup is simply vermicelli boiled in stock, macaroni 
 soup is macaroni boiled in stock. The best method of preparing these and al\ soups will 
 be found under the proper headings in another part of the present work ; but I would 
 remind cooks of the general principle to be observed in adding these ingredients to stock, 
 and that is, cleanliness. Whenever macaroni, vermicelli, pearl-barley, etc., have to be 
 added to soup, they should invariably be at any rate partially boiled in plain water first, 
 in order that the outside dirty part may be washed off by being dissolved. 
 
 It is of no use to wash vermicelli, macaroni, barley, etc., in cold water to clean 
 it — it must be boiled ; and in the case of macaroni of all kinds and vermicelli it 
 is best to boil it in plain water till it is tender, and then add it to the stock. Of course, 
 in the case of an ingredient like barley, where it is added to broth to increase the nourish- 
 ment, it should only be boiled sufficiently long to ensure all the outside being dissolved, 
 so that perfect cleanliness may be obtained. How many cooks are there who can call 
 to mind the following misadventure with the soup ? They have got the stock as bright 
 
xxxvi cassell's new dictionary op oookeey. 
 
 as sherry, they have added the vermicelli, and it has turned, not thick, but cloudy — the 
 reason being that they did not boil the vermicelU in water separately. 
 
 We next come to that very large variety of soups that contain vegetables; the best one to 
 take as a type of the class perhaps being spring soup. Spring soup is simply a number of 
 vegetables boiled in stock ; such vegetables as turnips, celery, carrots, small spring onions, 
 cauliflowers, asparagus tops, green peas, etc. Now when we come to speak generally on the 
 principles of boiling vegetables, we shall have to explain the importance of leaving plenty 
 of room for the steam to escape, in order to ensure a good colour being attained. These 
 vegetables, therefore, should not be thrown into the stock direct, but into boiling water 
 first. By this means, besides perfect cleanliness being guaranteed, the vegetables will 
 look brighter than they otherwise would do ; and we all know the difierence between 
 soup in which the carrot is a bright red and the peas a bright green, and soup in which 
 the former is a dirty brown and the latter a dirty yellow. I would here, in passing, observe 
 that many English cooks imagine that spring soup and Julienne soup are the same thing. 
 In properly made Julienne soup the vegetables are first stewed in a little butter 
 in a stewpan till they begin to turn colour slightly, or, in other words, till they just begin 
 to brown ; then the stock is added, as well as a little sugar. Owing to this difEerence 
 in the preparation, the flavour is materially altered — of course, the butter is thrown up 
 by boiling and removed by skimming. We will next discuss that exceedingly delicious 
 soup known as clear mock turtle. An excellent recipe is given in its proper place. I 
 would, however, remind the cook of the importance in making clear mock turtle of having 
 the flavouring herbs in proper proportions. Sweet basil should form quite one-third of 
 the whole quantity, and marjoram, lemon- thyme, and winter savoury should make up 
 the other two-thirds. We will suppose, of course, that as a rule calf's head is used to 
 make the soup — though a very excellent imitation can be made by using pig's head instead. 
 But we will not enter into the whole details of soup-making, which, as we have said, will 
 be found elsewhere, but will say a few words on the general principles to be remembered 
 when adding wine to soups. A very rich, glutinous soup like mock turtle — or, of course, 
 the still richer genuine turtle — ^will bear a large quantity of wine. Madeira is by far the best, 
 but good sherry will answer the same purpose. And here I would strongly appeal to the 
 mistress of the house against the folly of using, not cheap sherry, but some extraordinary 
 compound that is not sherry at all, for cooking purposes. Bad sherry will no more make 
 good soups or jellies than bad eggs will make good puddings or custards. 
 
 I should be glad if some of my readers would try the following experiment :— Have 
 some good clear mock turtle soup made ; taste it before the wine is put to it — suppose 
 the quantity to be three quarts. Add a tumblerful of Madeira, and then taste, and let 
 them ask themselves whether the difEerence in the flavour is not well worth the money. 
 
 There are several soups that will bear, and be very much improved by, the addition 
 of sherry, and we would mention soup made from calves' feet or ox feet, giblet soup, and 
 soup made from any kind of game. Hare soup requires port wine, and not sherry, and of 
 course the same observations that applied to sherry apply to the port. If you cannot 
 afford or obtain real port, do not put in any bad wine to spoil the hare. I would here 
 mention the fact that wherever port is used in cooking, a few cloves, a very little piece of 
 cinnamon, and a httle lemon- juice may always be added with advantage. The great 
 secret of success in making good hare soup is rubbing the meat well through a tamis, or 
 wire sieve. The best part of the meat should, of course, be kept to add to the soup after 
 it is made, while the remainder should be well stewed, together with the bones, until these 
 
SOUP. xxxvii 
 
 have become bare and wbite. They should then be taken out, and all the meat and 
 celery with which they have been boiled rubbed through a wire sieve with a wooden 
 spoon. Hare soup requires no thickening. 
 
 Mulligatawny soup is another not exactly thick soup, and yet not a puree, but a mix- 
 ture of the two, that we may here allude to, though perhaps a little out of its proper place. 
 Here again the secret of success is patience in rubbing the fried onion, apples, etc., through 
 the tamis ; but we will speak of the tamis more fully when we come to " Purees." There 
 is one little point in which mulligatawny soup difiers from others, and that is, it requires 
 sour apples in its composition. If sour apples should not be obtainable, a tablespoonful 
 of Edmund's mtdligatawny paste will give the soup the peculiar acid twang beloved by 
 epicures. 
 
 With regard to thick soups in general, little more need be said than that, as a rule, the 
 only difierence is the addition of brown or white roux. We must, however, again remind 
 our readers, as we have done before, almost ad nauseam, of allowing the soup to boil and 
 throw up the butter, which must be removed by skimming. Soups thickened by arrow- 
 root, cornflour, or plain flour and water, do not require this skimming. The common mistake 
 into which inexperienced cooks fall in making thick soup is making it too thick. By adding 
 too much brown roux the flavour of the soup itself is overpowered. Again, in using arrow- 
 root for thickening, if care be not exercised the soup will be rendered the consistency of 
 a pudding rather than a soup. Recollect, in thickening soups, gravies, etc., the full effect 
 of the thickening added is not felt till the soup or gravy has boiled up for a minute or two ; 
 what, therefore, is most requisite is that the cook should possess that quaUty which of 
 aU others I regard as a sine qud non for success — viz. patience ; and, to proceed to purees, 
 I will commence with a remark that sounds hke a proverb — Patience makes the puree. 
 I doubt if, of all the trying ordeals a good cook has to undergo throughout the year, 
 any is so trying as that of standing over a large wire sieve, wooden spoon in hand, en- 
 deavouring to coax the contents through. Let cooks, however, rest assured that this 
 is not labour spent in vain. Take, for example, really good Palestine soup. We will 
 suppose the artichokes — say, a quarter of a peck — to have simmered and got soft in a 
 couple of ounces of butter, and that proper care has been taken to prevent them getting 
 brown. We will then suppose them to have been boiled gently in a quart of good 
 strong white stock, and a bay-leaf added to improve their flavour. Now the whole must 
 be rubbed through a tamis, or wire sieve, otherwise the soup will be poor. However, 
 rub it through, and add half a pint of boihng cream, and you will have a soup that you 
 need not be .ashamed to set before the most particular person in the world. By-the-by, 
 if the artichokes— Jerusalem, of course — are not very young, add a httle pounded 
 white sugar to the soup at the finish. 
 
 Carrot soup, turnip soup, vegetable marrow soup, chestnut soup, pea soup, green-pea 
 soup, potato soup, asparagus soup, etc. etc., are all ahke in one respect, namely that the 
 one secret of the soup being good is the amount of perseveranc.e displayed in rubbing the 
 ingredients through the tamis. 
 
 In rubbing these ingredients through, the cook will often find it advisable to scrape 
 the tamis or wire sieve underneath, as the puree will cling to the bottom of the sieve after 
 being worked throiigh it with the spoon. It will also be necessary from time to time to 
 moisten the contents of the sieve with some of the liquid part of the stock that has run 
 through it. 
 
 However, much allowance should be made for women cooks, who, perhaps unassisted 
 
XXXVIU CASSELLS NEW DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. 
 
 by a kitchen-maid, have to prepare soups of this description. A considerable amount 
 of time must necessarily be spent, and a considerable amount of strength expended, in 
 order to obtain a satisfactory result. 
 
 In large kitchens, where a man cook superintends, and perhaps two or three young 
 men assist, there is, of course, no difficulty ; but where only a woman unassisted has to 
 manage the whole dinner, it should be the duty of the mistress to avoid ordering, as is 
 often done through mere thoughtlessness, many dishes, all of which require a certain amount 
 of manual labour in their preparation. For instance, green-pea soup, whipped cream, 
 and mayonnaise sauce in one dinner would probably overtask the powers of any woman • 
 cook unassisted. 
 
 Most of these vegetable soups and purees are very much improved by the addition 
 of cream, and it will be generally found that boiling cream is ordered to be added. This 
 distinction is important : not merely is the risk of curdling avoided, but the flavour is 
 difEerent. All know, for instance, how different coffee tastes that has had boiling milk 
 added to it instead of ordinary milk. Just so with cream — when cream is used for adding 
 to soup of any description, boil it separately before adding. Now, of course, in ordinary 
 private houses cream is far too expensive to be used often, and, indeed, in London to be 
 used at all, except in small quantities. Milk is a very obvious substitute for cream, especially 
 if the yolk of an egg be added to it ; but care must be taken in adding this yolk, or the soup 
 win get curdled. We will suppose, therefore, you are recommended to add a pint of boiling 
 cream to some soup, and that you are obliged to substitute milk and the yolk of an egg. 
 If possible, allow the soup to reduce itself by boihng, and you can then add more than 
 a pint of mUk. However, boil this amount, taking the usual care that it does not boil over 
 (which, in the case of milk, happens very suddenly), and pour the boiling fluid through a 
 strainer into the soup ; next, have ready the hot soup-tureen and the yolk of egg. Just before 
 serving up the soup, throw the yolk into the tureen, take a spoonful of the soup out of 
 the saucepan and throw it in and beat it up with the yolk, add a few more spoonfuls, 
 one at a time, to the tureen, and mix in the yolk thoroughly ; then pour in the remainder 
 of the soup, which should not be absolutely boiling, though thoroughly hot. The effect 
 of this milk and egg will be very similar to a pint of cream, but of course much more 
 economical. When cream or milk is used for these white vegetable soups or purees, a 
 bay-leaf and a sitsficion of nutmeg may be added. Only be careful with the 
 nutmeg ; a very, very little will go a long way, and too much woidd utterly ruin the 
 soup. 
 
 Before leaving the subject of soups, there is one I should like to describe, because 
 it is supposed to be a rare and recherchi dish, but is in reality very simple, and can be 
 made without much trouble — I refer to bisque made from crab. When the weather is 
 not too hot, and crabs are cheap, take a nice heavy crab that is not watery, and pick 
 the mleat from the claws into shreds with a couple of forks. Then take the soft inside 
 of the back, and pick out all the meat from the rest of the crab, and pound it thoroughly 
 in a mortar with a little boiled rice (about half as much boiled rice as there is crab) ; add 
 some good stock and cayenne pepper, and rub the whole through a tamis ; add some 
 boiling cream, and the shredded meat from the claws at the last moment, just before serving, 
 only take care not to let the bisque boil. Bisque of lobster, bisque of crayfish, is ninety- 
 nine times out of a hundred made principally from crab, and if you can get some lobster 
 butter to colour it no one can tell the difierence. Lobster butter is simply the coral of 
 lobster pounded with a little butter and cayenne pepper : it is a beautiful colour, and 
 
FISH. 
 
 XXXIX 
 
 looks like vermilion paint. This will easily dissolve in soup and turn it a bright red. 
 Lobster sauce and shrimp sauce both require lobster butter. 
 
 Finally it is desirable that brief reference should be made to that somewhat modern in- 
 vention—soup preserved in tins. To maintain that tinned soups are equal to those properly 
 made from fresh meat would of course be ridiculous ; but the invention is most useful, 
 and, in cases of long voyages, etc., most valuable. A tin or two of soup in the house has 
 always this advantage — ^it furnishes an extra dish at almost a moment's notice for an un- 
 expected guest. I will now proceed to explain how these tinned soups may be utilised 
 and improved, if their contents are found to be not quite what was expected. 
 
 Unfortunately, preserved soups difEer immensely from one another in quality. Very 
 much, however, can be done by the cook to transform these soups from a flavourless con- 
 coction to a really nice soup, only recollect I do not mean that all soups preserved in tins 
 require what cooks call " touching-up," but only that some do. Take, for instance, that 
 most commonly-bought soup — mock turtle. If the tin is a good one, and the weather 
 not extremely hot, the soup when the tin is opened will be a hard jelly. It only requires 
 warming up ; but if, on tasting, it appears poor and looks thin and of a bad colour, very 
 much can be done in a few moments to improve it, both in flavour and appearance. A 
 table-spoonful of brown thickening or roux will' render it darker and thicker, a little extract 
 of meat or a small piece of glaze will give a better flavour, and last, but not least, half a 
 wine-glassful or a little more of fairly good sherry will transform it, as if by magic, into 
 excellent mock-turtle soup. Almost any soup is improved by the addition of extract 
 of meat, whether it be thick or thin. Hare soup, again, when in a tin, of course requires 
 port wine instead of sherry. Mulligatawny soup is wonderfully improved'by the addition 
 of a little curry paste. 
 
 It is, perhaps, scarcely necessary for me to remind you that soup, like stock, will be 
 preserved in hot weather better by being boiled up fresh every day, and also that soup 
 that has had cream added to it is very apt to turn sour. Consequently, when it is possible, 
 just sufiicient should be made for the day. In conclusion, I would add that a little and 
 good is far better than an enormous quantity and poor. I fear in summer time it is a very 
 common thing for cooks to make soup in such quantities that half of it is nearly always 
 wasted. 
 
 FISH. 
 
 We will next proceed to discuss the general principles to be borne in mind in cooking 
 fish. Before fish is cooked it is of the utmost importance to see that it is perfectly fresh. 
 Fortunately, fish when not perfectly fresh soon tells its own tale. Now, some kinds of 
 fish will keep far better than others, just like meat. For instance, a piece of silver-side 
 of beef will keep perfectly good whete a shoulder of mutton or, still worse, a shoulder of 
 lamb would get bad. So, too, with fish : a solid fish like turbot or salmon will keep much 
 better than fish like whiting, eels, or whitebait. There is one fish—viz. red mullet— that 
 is absolutely better for being kept. We will begin with boiled fish, and run through the 
 general principles to be observed in boiling. First, a very common fault with cooks ia 
 that they omit to put sufficient salt into the water in which the fish is boiled. In boiling 
 large fish, such as cod, salmon, etc., where the backbone is exposed after the fish has been 
 cleaned, it will be found to be a good plan to rub the bone with a piece of salt. The fish 
 
xl CASSELLS NEW DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. 
 
 should then be placed gently in a large fish-kettle, with sufficient cold water to cover it. 
 Salt should be added in the proportion, for large fish, of nearly half a pound of salt to a 
 gallon of water ; the minimum of salt should be six ounces to a gallon. In the case of small 
 fish, such as mackerel, small plaice, etc., a quarter of a pound of salt to the gallon will 
 be sufficient. Most fish should be placed, as we have said, in cold water, unless it cooks 
 very quickly or the fish is very small and intended for a fish souchet. The fish should then 
 be allowed to boil up as quickly as possible. Directly the water begins to boil, it will be 
 found that a good deal of scum will rise to the surface. This scum should be taken ofi 
 at once, as otherwise when the fish is removed from the kettle it will settle on the surface 
 of the fish, rendering it unpleasant, not merely to the eye, but to the palate. 
 
 At the bottom of the fish-kettle is generally placed a strainer, so that the fish can be 
 gently lifted without breaking. It should be always borne in mind that fish is very tender 
 and apt to break. Indeed, many a good cod-fish has been broken owing to the cook care- 
 lessly pouring cold water on to the fish from a little height. 
 
 It would be almost impossible to give any general directions as to the length of time 
 fish takes to boil. The time is generally best calculated after the water has boiled. For 
 instance, a good large turbot will be sufficiently cooked by allowing the water to boil for 
 half an hour. Experience alone, however, will enable the cook to form a correct estimate. 
 The fact of the flesh separating easily from the bone is quite enough to prove that the 
 fish is amply done. 
 
 When a very large cod or salmon is boiled whole, recollect that it will not do to judge 
 by the tail whether the whole fish is done or not, as of course the tail being thinner than 
 the shoulder will cook through much quicker. Boiled fish should always be served up 
 on a strainer covered with a nice clean napkin, and care should be taken to allow the water 
 to run ofi the fish-kettle strainer before the fish is moved or rather sUpped ofE on to the 
 napkin. Boiled fish should be ornamented with slices of cut lemon and green parsley, 
 and of course a garnish of prawns or very small crayfish forms a great improvement to 
 its appearance. In the case of large fiat fish, like a turbot or good-sized brill, a little 
 lobster coral sprinkled sparingly over the surface of the fish is the best method of making 
 it ornamental. When lobster sauce is served with the fish this can generally be done ; 
 when there is no lobster, and the fish is served simply plain with melted butter, a httle 
 parsley, not chopped up too finely, will, with the cut lemon, form an admirable garnish 
 which will in appearance be little inferior to the lobster coral. 
 
 But we must again refer to a point previously mentioned, and that is _the whiteness 
 of the fish. A fat turbot looks infinitely more tempting when it is of a snowy whiteness 
 than one that is sent to table presenting a dirty appearance. Now this white appearance 
 is much increased by the simple means of rubbing the fish over with a little lemon-juice 
 — the efiect of acid lemon-juice is to slightly dissolve the outside impurities of the fish, 
 which are then thrown up in boiling, and removed by skimming. In choosing a large 
 turbot, avoid one with the backbone that looks red, as these fish rarely present that white 
 appearance when boiled, like those whose backbones when raw are white and colourless. 
 
 We will now discuss or rather remind our readers of the general principles to be re- 
 membered in frying fish which we considered at some length in the early pages of this 
 work. The principles are mainly these : — ^Let the fat be boiling. Let the fat cover the 
 fish. In preparing fish for frying when eggs and bread-crumbs are used, take care first 
 to dry the fish, secondly to flour it, then dip it in the wdl-heaten egg and sprinkle it with 
 the dry bread-crumbs. The bread-crumbs are best made from bread that is not too fresh ; 
 
FISH. Xli 
 
 new bread will not crumble easily. Cut tbe soft part of a loaf and rub it through a wire 
 sieve. This is a much quicker and better method than to grate on a grater, as the crumbs 
 will be of a small, uniform size. Have plenty of crumbs ; it is impossible to prepare the 
 fish well with a small quantity, and any left over may be sifted and used for other pur- 
 poses. Beat one or two eggs lightly on a plate according to the quantity of fish ; if they 
 are beaten much they do not adhere so well. Place the bread-crumbs on a sheet of kitchen 
 paper beside the plate on which the eggs have been beaten. Dip each portion of fish into 
 the egg, blushing over both sides thoroughly with a small brush kept for the purpose. 
 Lift on a knife and lay it on the bread-crumbs. Take the corners of the paper and shake 
 the crumbs over and over, that they may touch every part of the fish, and then place it 
 in the frying basket. It should come out of the fat crisp, and of a nice golden brown colour. 
 Not more than three pieces of fish should be fried at a time unless the saucepan (or fish- 
 kettle) is quite large, as the more fish is put in the cooler the fat becomes, and no amount 
 of after-heat makes up for the fat being cool in the first instance when the fish is plunged 
 in. The fish being done, have ready a baking sheet with two layers of kitchen paper, 
 lift the fish from the fat with a slicer, let it drain a moment, and then leave it to dry on 
 the paper. When sufficient has been cooked, serve it on a hot dish, covered with a fish 
 paper and garnished with fried parsley. 
 
 We next come to grilled fish, and there can be no doubt that the grill somehow brings 
 out a flavour that nothing else will. For instance, a fine fresh herring just out of the water, 
 cooked on a gridiron, what can compare to it ? Fish especially requires a clear fire. Take, 
 for instance, filleted soles going to be done d, la Maitre d' Hotel : unless the fire be quite 
 clear, the fish will get smoky, perhaps — or look dirty. First, extra care must be taken 
 to have the gridiron perfectly clean, as the white fish will show marks in a way that a 
 chop or steak of course would not. As an extra precaution, therefore, I would recommend 
 you to rub the gridiron with a piece of mutton fat, and warm it. Then wipe it with a 
 cloth, and see if any black remains. After this, again rub it with the fat, as it helps to 
 prevent the fish from sticking and consequently burning, which it is very apt to do. The 
 filleted pieces of soles are first dipped in a httle oil mixed with some chopped parsley and 
 pepper and salt ; the pieces are then placed across the gridiron, and if the fire be "bright 
 will look transparent, and directly this transparent appearance changes to an opaque 
 one the fish is done. Underdone fish is extremely nasty, but, as we said, the universal 
 fault is the other way — fish, as a rule, being as nauch overcooked as a boiled leg of mutton 
 is generally undercooked. Another important point to be remembered in grilling fish 
 is generally to keep in the fiavour. For instance, a slice of grilled salmon tastes far nicer 
 if the slice has been wrapped in oiled paper. Of course, cooking anything wrapped in 
 oiled paper on a gridiron requires great care, as should there be the slightest flare the paper 
 will catch fire. What is wanted is a fierce heat. When fish has been cooked in paper it 
 should be sent to table just as it is, paper and all. The paper must be proper cooking paper, 
 and not printed. So few fish are ever baked that general directions on the subject are 
 scarcely necessary. There is one case, however, to which we will refer — viz. fish en fapillote, 
 or, in other words, fish baked in paper. Take, for instance, the case of rouget en fapUlote. 
 The very best way of cooking red mullet is to wrap it up in oiled paper with plenty of 
 butter and a little pepper and salt, the one thing to be borne in mind being that it is scarcely 
 possible to have too much butter. If you place a red mullet — or, indeed, any fish — in 
 paper with what is generally called a little dab of butter, you simply dry up and spoil the 
 fish altogether. 
 
xlii cassell's new dictionary of cookery. 
 
 There is one delicious little fish that deserves special notice, and that is whitebait. 
 How very iew cooks are there who can send this deUcacy to table ! Indeed, very often 
 in country houses, when what are called grand dinners are given, a man is specially 
 sent down from London to cook the whitebait. 
 
 Of course, we presume the whitebait to be fresh. Now, what is the difficulty ? I 
 think the principal one is drying the whitebait. I will therefore describe exactly how 
 whitebait is cooked at some of those charming httle river-side hotels. The whitebait 
 is first thrown on to flour on a cloth, not merely a floured cloth, but flour an inch deep. 
 The whitebait, when thus dosed in flour, is put into a large sifter or very coarse, open cane 
 sieve — something like that used for sifting oats — and shaken ; all the loose flour is thus 
 shaken ofi. The floured and sifted whitebait is then put in a wire basket, and plunged 
 into boiling fat. Unless the fat be really boiling, and sufficiently deep to cover the fish, 
 it is of no use. Half a minute or a little more is quite sufficient to cook' the whitebait, 
 which must be sent to table instantly. 
 
 Recollect, however, the whitebait must be cooked directly it is floured. It is no use 
 flouring the whitebait and putting it by ; if you wait any time you will have it flabby 
 and spoilt. The one point to be remembered is expedition. Take care also that the 
 whitebait is not in a broken state. 
 
 Plain whitebait is generally followed with a little devilled whitebait. There are two 
 kinds, called black devil and red devil. The correct way to devil whitebait is to take 
 out the whitebait basket in the middle of cooking and pepper the fish, using mixed black 
 pepper and salt for a black-devil, and mixed cayenne pepper and salt for a red-devil. The 
 basket should then be re-plunged into the boiling fat for a few seconds, and the whitebait 
 sent to table. 
 
 In nearly all hotels — and really the plan seems quite unobjectionable — the devilled 
 whitebait is made from the ordinary whitebait left and sent downstairs from the first course. 
 This is peppered and replaced in the whitebait basket, which is then re-plunged into the 
 boiling fat — a very few seconds, of course, being necessary to heat it. 
 
 An indispensable accompaniment to whitebait is thin brown bread and butter and 
 cut lemon. Whitebait, however, is such an exceedingly delicate fish that it seems to possess; 
 an extraordinary property of bringing out the flavour of the butter. Consequently,' 
 unless the butter is of the very befet description it will taste bad. Unfortunately, too, 
 this bad flavour will be attributed to the fish rather than to the butter. Remember also 
 in serving whitebait, as in serving a souffle, a very few minutes' delay means ruin. 
 
 There is one compound so intimately connected with fish that we think some reference 
 should be made to it while we are discussing the subject of the principles to be observed 
 in cooking fish of all kinds. We refer to melted butter. There are, perhaps, few dishes 
 more essentially English than that large tureen of so-called melted butter, but which is 
 in reality milk, or perhaps water, thickened with butter and flour, in which the latter really 
 predominates. There is, too, probably nothing sent to table so extravagant as ordinary 
 melted butter, as, for some reasons unknown, the cook seems possessed with an idea that 
 persons eat melted butter as they do soup. It will almost invariably be found that melted 
 butter — say, for four persons — ^is sent up in sufficient quantity for twenty ; and as there 
 are few cooks who know, or care even if they do know, how to utilise the melted butter 
 that is left, too often the greater part of this expensive and extravagant sauce is absolutely 
 thrown away. I say expensive and extravagant advisedly, for properly made melted 
 butter is very nearly literally what the name impUes. 
 
FISH. xliii 
 
 As good melted butter — or, as it is sometimes called, butter-sauce — is an exceedingly 
 nice and delicious accompaniment to most kinds of fish, and as in nine houses out of ten 
 it is sent up in an uneatable form, I will, at the risk of being tedious, describe how to make 
 it, and will at the same time remind cooks that melted butter is often looked upon as a 
 crucial test of a good cook. 
 
 Good melted butter is a happy medium between that very small quantity of curdled 
 oil sent up as an accompaniment to fish at second-rate French hotels or restaurants and 
 that large tureen brimming full of thick milk generally served in private houses. Just 
 as in life we ofttimes learn as much from our mistakes as we do from our successes, so it 
 is often a good method of teaching to describe first " how not to do it." The usual but 
 wrong method of making melted butter is as follows. The cook cuts ofE a lump of butter 
 at random, and places it on a plate with about an equal quantity of flour, standing the 
 plate in front of the fire to allow the butter to sufficiently dissolve to enable her to mix 
 the flour "and butter all together, which is generally done, too, with a steel knife. This 
 kneaded butter and flour is then added to a pint or more of milk or water, or a mixture 
 of the two, and the whole stirred together till thick, in a saucepan over the fire — the reason 
 of the butter and flour being kneaded together first being that it is then much less liable 
 to render the sauce lumpy and curdled. All this is generally done by guess-work, and 
 too often, owing to the quantity of flour being miscalculated, the result resembles in con- 
 sistency a pudding rather than a sauce. 
 
 The great mistake in this method is the absurdly large quantity of milk or water 
 and the equally absurdly small quantity of butter. The first idea the cook must clearly 
 grasp is quantity. Butter, especially in the present day, is very expensive, and as butter- 
 sauce consists mainly of butter, the cook must make sufficient, but not more than sufficient. 
 
 Suppose, therefore, there are eight persons going to sit down to dinner, it may be 
 calculated that each person will take one ladleful of melted butter with their fish, and 
 no more ; for if it be properly made it will look sufficiently rich to deter anyone from what 
 is vulgarly called " swimming " their plate with it. Let, therefore, the cook who feels 
 willing to learn act as follows. Take a small basin, or the sauce-tureen, and pour into it 
 with the sauce-ladle eight ladlefuls of water, and two over, or ten in all, and then look at 
 the quantity, and bear in mind that that is the limit of the quantity she must make- 
 viz, about half a pint. 
 
 I will now describe how to make a small quantity of melted butter, supposing only a 
 quarter of a pound of butter used. First take the butter, and divide it into six equal 
 portions, great accuracy not being essential. Take one of these sixth parts, and place 
 it in a small enamelled stewpan to melt over the fire, and add to it not quite an equal 
 quantity of flour, a small pinch of pepper, and a susficion of nutmeg. When this httle 
 piece of butter is melted, and the flour, etc., well mixed with it, have ready half a tumbler 
 of cold water, and pour the best part of it into the stewpan, and stir it up over the fire 
 till the whole becomes about the same consistency as cream. When this is the case, 
 gradually dissolve in it the remainder of the quarter of a pound of butter, taking care to 
 stir it carefully, and not to apply too great a heat. It will sometimes be found that the 
 melted butter thus made has a tendency to " curdle," as cooks say, or to run oily. The 
 moment any symptoms of this appear, add a spoonful of cold water, slacken the heat, and 
 stir quickly. When all the butter thus made is dissolved, the whole may be poured into 
 and sent through a tamis, which causes it to present a much smoother appearance than it 
 otherwise would. 
 
xliv cassell's new dictionary op cookery. 
 
 Really good melted butter ought properly to be made from fresh butter ; wien, tiere- 
 fore, the circumstances of the house allow of fresh butter being used, a little salt must 
 be added. However, very good melted butter can be made from salt or tub butter. 
 There is much adulterated butter in the market, despite the vigilance of county councils 
 and municipal authorities, and the only way in which to make sure of obtaining the 
 genuine article is to deal with a tradesman of good standing and reputation, and to pay 
 the full market price for it. 
 
 THE JOINT. 
 
 We will now proceed to discuss that all-important point in cooking — viz. the pre- 
 paration of joints, roast and boiled. Simple as such preparation would seem, yet the fact 
 remains that there are still many families, like that of David Copperiield, which fail appar- 
 ently ever to hit upon the proper medium between redness and cinders. Or should the 
 joint happen to be a leg of mutton boiled, the first incision of the knife causes that appear- 
 ance which has been graphically described as " gushing horrible among its capers." 
 
 Roasting and boiling joints must in the present day be necessarily divided into two 
 classes — viz. those cooked before or over an open fire, and those cooked in an oven con- 
 nected with and heated by a close fire, or an oven heated by gas. There are not many 
 kitchens, except in country places, where the old-fashioned open fire and bottle-jack are 
 now in use. Nor can we wonder at this, for the disadvantages of this way of cooking are 
 many. There is the great cost of fuel, owing to the large fire necessary ; the discomfort 
 of those in charge, owing to the incessant basting required ; and the loss of weight caused 
 by the melting of the fat and the evaporation of the juices. And yet it must be said that 
 there is no other way of cooking a joint quite equal to roasting it before the fire. Sur- 
 rounded with air and yet exposed to the direct heat of the fire, it has a flavour distinctly 
 its own, which can only be described as " tasting of the fire." 
 
 We will take as an example of joints to be roasted at an open fire that most common 
 one of all — viz. a leg of mutton. First, with regard to the condition of the joint — for 
 much depends upon this — a leg of mutton kept till it is ripe, or just fit for cooking, and 
 one fresh killed, are two distinct things. The fact is, that the great principle of cookery 
 — forethought — is as much overlooked in ordering a dinner as in cooking it. House- 
 keepers too often will simply order a leg of mutton from the butcher's when the man calls 
 for orders in the morning, and when the leg is sent they do not know whether it was killed 
 that morning or a fortnight before. 
 
 In cold weather it is a very simple plan to pick out a nice joint at the butcher's, asking . 
 when it was killed, and then have it hung up in the larder, or any cool place where there 
 is plenty of air, till it is tender. The length of time say a' haunch or leg of mutton will 
 keep in this country depends entirely upon the weather. In the sultry atmosphere of a 
 typical August a leg of mutton will sometimes turn bad in one day ; but such days are 
 rare, and in such weather large hot joints by no means desirable. 
 
 In winter, especially during a frost, there is scarcely any limit to the time a leg of 
 
 mutton will keep. Only bear in mind that if the leg gets frozen it is spoilt. In ordinary 
 
 cold but not necessarily freezing weather, a leg of mutton will keep from ten days to a 
 
 fortnight. Recollect, too, the importance of keeping the meat dry. For this purpose, 
 
 -flour with a dredger the whole of the joint, and look to it every morning, and re-flour any 
 
THE JOINT. xlv 
 
 part that looks in the least degree moist. Experience alone will tell you when the joint 
 should be cooked. Damp close weather is very bad for keeping meat, even if it is not 
 very hot. Cold dry weather is, of course, the best of all, when the temperature is just 
 above freezing. 
 
 We will now suppose the joint to be hung sufficiently long ; next let us consider 
 what is the best method of cooking it, and — ^why. One most important point is to have 
 a good clear bright fire to start with, and for this purpose the cook must see to the fire 
 quite an hour before the joint is " put down." It is no use to " put down " a leg of 
 mutton or large joint to a dull fire, and for the cook to say, " Oh, it will soon burn 
 up ! " This corresponds to putting the leg of mutton into lukewarm water, and saying. 
 Oh, it will soon boil ! " The principle of boiling and roasting is the same — to endeavour 
 as quickly as possible to surround the joint with a hard film of meat, in order to ^eep the 
 flavour in. Consequently, the fire must be clear, bright, and fierce to start with, and the 
 leg of mutton must be put rather near the fire at first. After a short time, varying 
 from ten minutes to a quarter of an hour, according to the heat of the fire, draw 
 the joint a little back, and let it cook steadily. Another important point in roasting meat 
 is the basting. A leg of mutton cannot be basted too much. Also, basting should commence 
 almost directly the meat is put down. Now, it will often, in fact generally, be found that 
 women cooks place the dripping-pan in front of the fire, then hang the joint ; next take a 
 basin with some dripping in it, and place a lump in the dripping-pan to melt — the piece 
 placed in front of the dripping-pan generally sUpping round to the back as soon as the 
 melting begins. This melting process takes time, and too often the skin and surface of 
 til e meat gets hard and dry, and cracks before sufficient dripping has melted to baste with. 
 
 What cooks should do is to place the dripping-pan in front of the fire, with the drip- 
 ping or lard in it, a quarter of an hour or more before they hang up the joint, and also to 
 make it a rule not to hang the joint at all before they see sufficient dripping has run into 
 the well of the dripping-pan to make a good spoonful of melted fat in the basting-ladle. 
 
 With regard to time, this not merely depends upon the size of the joint, but upon the 
 fire and the time of year. Roughly speaking, a leg of mutton weighing eight pounds will 
 take a couple of hours, and one of ten pounds two hours and a half. For a large leg of 
 mutton, a difference of nearly half an hour should be made for summer and winter — in 
 winter, of course, the meat requires a longer time. If the fire has been properly attended 
 to, and the basting kept up during the whole time the joint is roasting, it will generally 
 be found that the leg of mutton will be sufficiently browned without having recourse to 
 flouring it and drawing it near to the fire. Should, however, the meat look light-coloured, 
 draw the ieg a little nearer the fire, and allow those parts that look lighter than the rest 
 to brown by stopping the roasting-jack from going round. Should it be thought necessary 
 or desirable to use flour, do not let the flour fall into the dripping pan in any quantity, for 
 this, as we before pointed out, will have the efiect of thickening the gravy. 
 
 In roasting a haunch of mutton, exactly the same process should be followed as in 
 roasting a leg, only as the haunch is of course far larger, it requires a much longer time to 
 cook ; consequently, the outside is very apt to get overcooked and dried up before the 
 joint is cooked through. Now, a large haunch of mutton weighing over sixteen pounds 
 will take four hours to cook ; when, therefore, a joint of this size has to be cooked, it will 
 be necessary to protect the outside parts not naturally covered with fat, with some arti- 
 ficial covering, such as thin slices of fat, or oiled foolscap paper. 
 
 The best way of treating a fine large haunch of mutton that has been well hung 
 
xlvi 
 
 CASSELL S NEW DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. 
 
 is to cook it exactly in tie same way as a fine hauncli of venison. First, however, 
 remember that a haunch of venison, of all joints in the world, depends upon the 
 attention that has been bestowed upon it during its hanging. Like the haunch 
 of mutton, it must be put in a cold and airy place, and also kept dry. Great 
 care also should be taken in the early transport of the meat to prevent its getting 
 in any way bruised. A haunch of venison will keep much longer than a haunch of mutton, 
 and is generally preferred when just on the turn towards getting what is called " high." 
 It is, however, a great mistake to keep a haunch too long, so that when it is cut it has a 
 strong gamy smell. The following is the best method of roasting a haunch of venison, and 
 perhaps few recipes better illustrate that important principle. of cooking — viz. " keeping the 
 flavour in." First, all the dry skin on the underneath part and skirt should be removed, 
 and t\e shank-bone neatly'sawn off. • Then a piece of buttered paper should be put over 
 what we may call the breast of the haunch, or that part where there is least fat, and where 
 it is generally first cut. Then the whole haunch should be covered over with a flour-and- 
 water paste half an inch thick, and outside this paste large sheets of oiled paper should 
 be tied. 
 
 The joint should then be hung up, or, better still, put in a cradle-spit, and roasted. 
 The time a good-sized haunch of venison will take to roast varies from four to five hours, 
 though of course it would be useless to attempt to roast one at all, except before a very 
 large fire. About half an hour before the joint is wanted remove the paste and paper, 
 and sprinkle all over the haunch a Httle salt out of a pepper-box. Next bring the haunch 
 near the fire, and baste it with some fresh butter heated till it is frothed, and at the same 
 time dredge the haunch with flour. The point to be aimed at is to get a rich brown colour 
 all over the joint. A good brisk fire will generally be sufficient ; but if any difficulty is 
 experienced, a salamander will be found of great assistance. Indeed, for obtaining a colour, 
 a salamander will often be found a desirable kitchen utensil. It is simply a large flat piece 
 of iron with a handle to it. This iron is made red-hot and held near to what requires 
 browning. A salamander will be found extremely useful in browning cheesecakes, or in 
 raising an omelette. 
 
 A rich but not strongly-flavoured gravy should be served with a haunch of venison, 
 and also red-currant jelly. French beans are by far the best vegetable to be eaten with 
 it, and stale bread is better than new. If possible, have a plate with hot water under- 
 neath it ; and if you know a haunch of venison is coming, reserve your appetite as much 
 as possible, and do not spoil it by eating entrees first. Of course, the reason of covering 
 the haunch with the paste is to keep in the flavour. We shall speak more fuUy on this 
 point of keeping in the flavour when we come to consider cooking joints in closed vessels. 
 
 One great secret of successfid roasting is the basting. Now, it is evident that any 
 joint covered with fat requires less basting than a dry or lean joint. For instance, a loin 
 of mutton, because it is generally much fatter, requires less than a leg. Again, in the 
 case of a sirloin of beef, the sides or lean part should be liberally basted, while for the fat 
 upper part and undercut basting at all is scarcely required. If done with fat or dripping 
 it should not go on till the joint be taken down, but discontinued about ten minutes or a 
 quarter of an hour before ; as, if a joint has been basted up to the last moment with fat, 
 it has a tendency to make the meat, especially the outside cut, taste greasy. 
 
 This does not apply to basting with butter. Butter, however, is now so dear that 
 it is scarcely ever used for basting purposes. 
 
 One great difficulty— the chief, perhaps, with inexperienced cooks — ^is the time a 
 
THE JOINT. xlvii 
 
 joint will take to roast. Too much dependence must not be placed on nC6te weight. For 
 instance, take a shoulder of mutton. A large but thin shoulder will not take so long to 
 roast as a smaller but thicker one. So again, the old maxim of allowing a quarter of an 
 hour to a pound of meat will not apply to ribs of beef rolled. This latter joint is all solid 
 meat, and thick, and consequently takes a long time to get heated right through. So 
 again, a loin of mutton boned and stuffed, which is the most economical way of cooking 
 it, will take a longer time to roast than an ordinary loin of mutton with the bone in it. 
 Of course, the weight of a joint is a great criterion as to how long it will take to cook ; but 
 then it should always be borne in mind that the weight and thickness should be considered 
 together. 
 
 One very common mistake made by cooks is to suppose that lamb does not require 
 cooking so long as mutton, because it is young and tender. The contrary is, however, 
 the case. Underdone lamb is far worse than underdone mutton. A well-roasted haunch 
 or saddle of mutton when cut should show signs of having good red gravy in it. Under- 
 done lamb will be flabby and sodden ; in fact, lamb really requires considerably more 
 time than mutton. Lamb, too, should be always cooked before a particularly brisk fire, 
 and should be constantly basted. Just as lamb requires more roasting than mutton, 
 so does veal require longer roasting than beef. I think, as a rule, the principle will be 
 found to be, that the closer the meat the longer does it take to cook, whether the process 
 be roasting, baking, or boihng. For instance, a leg of mutton is closer meat than a' shoulder, 
 and consequently, supposing a leg and a shoulder to be the same weight, the former would 
 require longer roasting than the latter. So, too — supposing the weight the same — would 
 a silver-side of beef, which is very close meat indeed, take longer to boil than an aitch- 
 bone of beef. Veal is, as a rule in this country, a closer meat than beef, and requires a 
 great deal of cooking. Underdone veal, like underdone lamb, is extremely unwholesome. 
 Pork, again, is a white and close meat — it is almost impossible to over-roast pork. A 
 large leg of pork weighing twelve to sixteen pounds will take four or five hours to roast 
 properly. It will also be found advisable to rub the skin of the pork over with oil previous 
 to roasting it, as otherwise the skin has a tendency to get hard and split. 
 
 There are some things that are nearly always overcooked, and among these we would 
 particularly mention geese and ducks. Cooks should recollect that geese and ducks are 
 hollow, and that the meat on the breast is very often only an inch and a half deep at the 
 outside. Too often ducks are sent to table so dried up that the flavour is completely gone, 
 and when carved the breast-bone is dry and white. A large duck does not require more 
 than three-quarters of an hour to an hour to cook, and a good-sized goose one hour and 
 three-quarters. In roasting poultry the same thing holds true as in roasting meat — viz. 
 that the closer the meat the longer the time which must be allowed. This is very marked 
 in contrasting the time it takes to roast a goose and the time it takes to roast a turkey — 
 the latter, in proportion, taking nearly double the time of the former. A large turkey 
 weighing, say, fourteen pounds would require three hours and a half, whereas a large 
 goose that weight would only require one hour and three-quarters. 
 
 In roasting all kinds of poultry and game, basting is of the utmost importance, as 
 otherwise the meat is certain to be dry and flavourless. 
 
 In roasting some kinds of game it is a very common custom, especially abroad, to 
 fasten a piece of fat bacon over the breast, and, indeed, sometimes the bird is sent to table 
 with the bacon on it. Of course, this is purely a matter of taste ; but to my thinking 
 the bacon spoils the flavour of the bird. What should be done in roasting partridges is 
 
xlviii cassell's new dictiona.rt of cookery. 
 
 to calculate exactly the time wten they will be wanted, and not to roast them too soon. 
 Some cooks get nervous, and in fear of being late, absolutely get ready when dinner begins 
 some dishes that are not wanted till quite the finish. In large parties, partridges should 
 not be put down to roast tiU after the soup and fish have come downstairs. The entrees 
 invariably take a long time handing round, and then the joint has to follow. I have 
 no doubt that many will remember how frequently at large dinner-parties the game is 
 overcooked and dried up. 
 
 Hare is a very dry meat, and requires a great deal of roasting. Nevertheless, over- 
 roasted hare is one of the most insipid things sent to table. Yet too often hare will be 
 found to be quite dried up. The proper form of roast hare is, that when the knife cuts 
 into the back the meat, though not red, should be juicy ; too often it will be found to be 
 quite dry. So, too, with a roast pheasant. After the breast has been cut, when the knife 
 separates the wing-bone from the merry-thought, the bone where it is divided should look 
 a little pink ; this will show that the bird has not been dried up. When we come to small 
 birds, like woodcock and snipe, we must be still more careful of over-roasting, as it is a 
 cruel thing to spoil such expensive dehcacies owing to a little carelessness. It is difficult 
 to lay down any exact time — so much depending on the fire — only be sure of one thing, 
 and that is, baste the whole time. Snipe especially should be rather underdone. 
 
 There is an old saying which cooks would do well to remember — viz. " A well-cooked 
 snipe is one that has only flown once through the kitchen." This is merely an ex- 
 travagant way of saying how very little cooking snipe require. Of course, in serving 
 small game, no delay should take place. Game half cold is not worth eating — and it is 
 apt to lose its heat very quickly. Some dishes have special power of retaining heat, such 
 as Irish stew and hasty puddings. Others seem to lose their heat quickly, and among 
 the latter class we would especially mention roast loin of mutton, which seems to possess 
 the power of getting cold quicker than any other joint I know. 
 
 Up to quite a recent date it was impossible to apply the word " roast " to meat cooked 
 in an oven, as there was no free circulation of air, and the meat was simply baked in an 
 atmosphere charged with its own exhalations. But in the best modern ranges a perfect 
 system of ventilation is kept up, whereby the vitiated air is carried from the oven into 
 a flue at the back, and no unpleasant odour is allowed to escape into the kitchen. The 
 flue passes completely round and under the oven, thereby utilising nearly the whole of 
 the heat, and resulting in great economy of fuel. The roasting of meat and poultry can 
 thus be done in the oven almost as successfully as in front of an open fire. As but little 
 heat passes up the chimney, it is almost impossible for the latter to take fire. The com- 
 bustion of the smoke and the noxious gases is ingeniously effected by means of intensely 
 superheated air. The cold air, in the first place, being admitted through a ventilator in 
 the fire door, is made to travel through flanged chambers, of which the firebox itself forms 
 in every case one side. In its passage it is thoroughly heated, and meets the smoke and 
 gases as they leave the firebox, where the progress of the latter is somewhat arrested by 
 means of a plate called a " baffle plate." At this point the heated air, smoke, and gases 
 mingle, producing perfect combustion before travelling round the flues surrounding the 
 ovens and boilers. The range, therefore, is practically a smoke-consuming one, and very 
 little soot accumulates in the flues. 
 
COOKING BY GAS. xlix 
 
 COOKING BY GAS. 
 
 Gas Stoves for cooking purposes are much used nowadays, and are rapidly increasing 
 in public favour. Cleanliness, convenience, and ecdbomy are the advantages claimed for 
 gas as a cooking agent, and, when controlled by a competent {)erson, the claim may fairly 
 be allowed. The economy of gas in relation to coal is entirely a matter of management. 
 If the gas be turned off when not in use, and is not used extravagantly, it need not be any 
 more expensive than coaly especially when the labour of lighting, stoking, and cleaning 
 is taken into account. The main causes of waste are wrong utensils, the hghting of large 
 burners when small ones would suffice, the neglect to transfer the vessel from a large to 
 a small burner after boiUng point has been reached, and carelessness in leaving the gas on 
 when it is no longer required. If a burner has been lighted for cooking potatoes and a 
 second for boiling a pudding, and the oven heated for a joint, it may be thought that there 
 is not much amiss ; yet, with a little forethought, the consumption might be reduced by 
 cooking the potatoes in a steamer over the pudding, or by baking instead of boiUng the 
 potatoes, and so saving an extra burner. Then, again, supposing a meat stew or pie is being 
 baked, a rice or other milk pudding may be cooked at the same time, or fruit may be baked. 
 When the oven is used all the burners must be lighted ; it is therefore great waste to cook only 
 one thing at a time. It is a mistake also to use heavy iron pots and pans on gas stoves, 
 as the cost of the extra gas required to bring them to the boil would pay for suitable new 
 utensils many times over. Gas is also wasted by turning it on too high ; when the flame 
 is burning round the pans instead of underneath, it is obvious that the vessels , are" being 
 prematurely worn out. With the exercise of a httle common-sense those who study the 
 matter will soon find out how to manage their gas stove in the most economical manner, 
 and they will be surprised at the small amount of gas required to keep the contents of a 
 large stewpan at simmering point. 
 
 As the result of a long series of experiments it has been proved that meat roasted by 
 gas loses less in weight than when cooked in the oven of a coal range. In other words, 
 a larger proportion of the nutritious juices of the meat are retained when it is cooked by 
 gas. Looked at from this point of view, it must be acknowledged to be an economical 
 way of cooking. The heat of a gas stove can be regulated with the utmost exactness, 
 the required heat can be got just when it is wanted, and either a slow simmering fire or 
 a brisk boiling fire can be had at a moment's notice. There need thus be Uttle or no 
 waste of heat, as the requisite amount for any required purpose can at all times 
 be got. 
 
 Broadly speaking, there are two difEerent classes of gas-cooking apparatus — namely, 
 those in which the gas flames are of a luminous type, that is, similar to the burners used 
 for lighting rooms, but on a smaller scale ; and those whose burners produce what is called 
 " atmospheric flames," in which the gas is largely admixed with air before being burned. 
 The products of combustion from luminous flames are steam and carbonic acid only, which 
 are no more hurtful than the products from good gas burners used in a sitting-room. The 
 atmospheric burners, in addition to steam and carbonic acid, .produce carbonic oxide^ 
 a most dangerous and poisonous gas, generally attended by a very noxious smell, and 
 requiring very thorough ventilation to carry it away safely. Moreover, it has been found, 
 JSifter a series of exha^istive trials, that the flavour of meat cooked in ovens heated by blue 
 
] cassell's new dictionary of cookery. 
 
 atmospheric flames is not so good as that of meat roasted by the radiant heat of white 
 flames. 
 
 In choosing a gas stove one should be selected which has its oven lined with white 
 enamel, thus securing great cleanliness, as the interior is easily washed out with a flannel 
 dipped in hot water and sprinkled with a little soap powder, then rinsed and wiped dry. 
 
 Full information on the subject of gas stoves is given in a little book entitled, 
 " Cooking by Gas," issued by the publishers of this work. 
 
 We will now go on to consider what is really another form of roasting — viz. grilling. 
 There is perhaps no better test of a cook than a rump-steak and a boiled potato. If you 
 can get the former black outside and red in, and the latter a floury mass as white as snow 
 that crumbles to pieces on your plate, you may rest assured that the cook thoroughly 
 understands his or her business. The same principles, of course, apply to grilling a chop 
 or steak as to roasting or boihng, the point being as much as possible to surround the meat 
 very quickly with a hard film to keep in the juices and flavour. For grilling it is essential, 
 therefore, to have a perfectly clear fiie, and also to place the chop or steak near the fire 
 at starting. It is obvious, too, that the very first principles of cookery are overlooked 
 if the cook is foolish enough to stick a fork into the steak or chop to turn it. By this 
 means you commit the unpardonable crime of letting out the gravy. 
 
 We have, however, already fully described the principles to be observed in the use 
 of the gridiron. It will always be found best to have one gridiron for meat and another 
 for fish. In grilling kidneys, also, it is best to remove them every now and then, and dip 
 them into a httle hot fat if there is any handy. 
 
 We have already discussed the general principles of cooking to be observed both in 
 frying and boiling. I would, however, remind you that, in choosing a joint, such as a leg of 
 mutton, when it is for boiling and not for roasting, it is advisable to have it rather fresher. 
 A leg of mutton for roasting may be left till it is on the verge of turning. Not so a leg 
 Joir boiling. First, if the mutton be kept too long it will be of a very bad colour' when 
 sent to table ; secondly, the liquor in which it was boiled will not be fit for anything. 
 
 In boiling a leg of mutton, it should always be borne in mind that even with the greatest 
 care some considerable amount of nourishment will get out into the water. Indeed, it 
 would be a very practical lesson, not only to cooks but to heads of households, to make 
 a few experiments in weighing materials beforfe roasting or boiling and after. They should 
 remeinber, too, that there is no such thing in nature as annihilation. Very often when 
 turnips- are a little old, the cook, in order to save herself a very httle trouble, wiU boil all 
 the turnips with the leg of mutton, thereby rendering the Uquor too sweet to make Solip. 
 To my mind, one great drawback to salt beef is that even with plenty of soaking previously 
 in cold water, the liquor in which the beef is boiled is unfit for making soup. I have no 
 hesitation in saying that in the majority of estabhshments the refuse of the joints should 
 be sufficient to enable the family to have soup every day. By " refuse " I mean. the water 
 in which meat is boiled, the trimmings, etc., but especially the bones left from joints. A 
 silver-side of beef when fresh if boiled makes capital soup, and yet cases are found where 
 such liquor is absolutely thrown away. I recollect once on board ship seeing the cook 
 empty overboard the 'Kquor in which had been boiled — over-boiled, of course — a huge 
 fresh aitchbone of beef. Waste is absolutely sinful ; and when we consider for one moment 
 that we injure our fellow-creatures more by wasting a leg of mutton than by burning a 
 £20 note, we shall the better realise the importance of economy in cooking in its strictest 
 sense. The truest economy is to get the greatest amount of nourishment possible out of 
 
STKWING. 
 
 the materials we use. Nor should we waste because the materials are cheap and plentiful. 
 Even were it in our power to multiply food to a miraculous extent, it would still no less 
 be our duty to gather up the fragments that remain, that nothing be lost. 
 
 In boiling poultry of all kinds, it should be our endeavour to obtain— just as in boiling 
 fish— a good colour, and of course the principle is the same. In boiHng, say, a fowl or 
 a turkey, by rubbing the breast over with lemon-juice, or by placing a few thin slices of 
 lemon on the breast, and covering them over with a piece of buttered paper, and wrapping 
 the whole in a cloth, you will be able to send the fowl to table with that snow-white appear- 
 ance which renders it so much more tempting to the appetite. The reason of the flesh 
 being whiter is that the acid of the lemon helps to dissolve the outside impurities of the 
 skin on the breast of the fowl. 
 
 STEWING. 
 
 Speaking of economy in cooking naturally brings us to that most economical way of 
 cooking — viz. stewing. Really, the principles of stewing — the French method of cooking 
 nearly everything — are so simple that they hardly require explanation. Let us for one 
 moment contrast a mutton chop grilled and one stewed in rice. In the former case, some 
 of the chop goes up the chimney in the shape of vapour, and some into the fire in the shape 
 of fat and perhaps a little gravy, and is absolutely lost, so far as the eater is concerned 
 Take the chop, however, and put it in a small stewpan with just suffiicient water to cover 
 it, and a spoonful of rice ; cover over the stewpan, put a heavy weight on the hd< and let 
 it gently simmer by the fire for two or three hours. What is the result ? Nothing is lost. 
 Again, take that economical dish — an Irish stew — and see how much farther three pounds 
 of neck of mutton will go as Irish stew than as mutton cutlets. 
 
 In speaking of stewing as the universal custom in France, recollect I do not refer so much 
 to Parisian restaurants as to the nation generally, and especially the poor. I believe the 
 contrast in the cooking between the French and English soldiers during the Crimean War 
 was very marked. A very large employer of labour in the North of England told me he 
 had noticed that the few French workmen he employed lived more than twice as well 
 on the same wages as the other men, so far as eating was concerned. 
 
 Fortunately for this country there seems to be a change gradually going on for the better. 
 Open kitchen grates are now rarely seen ; and stewing over a close stove is far easier than 
 over open ones. The reason of this is, that the principle of stewing is to keep the ingre- 
 dients at a certain but not too great a heat. Stewing is very difierent to boihng. Irish 
 stew allowed to hoil is hard ; Irish stew that is really stewed will almost melt in the inouthj 
 Stewing can be done in an ordinary saucepan, but a stewpan, specially adapted- for the 
 purpose, is more suitable. It differs from a saucepan in having straight sides and a flat 
 Ud with a handle, and is made in different metals, varying in price according to «ize and 
 quality. Copper stewpans are the best, but they are expensive, and must be kept scrup'u^ 
 Ibusly clean and bright. Iron stewpans with block tin covers can be had, aecordiiig toi 
 size, from about four to twelve shillings. Flat covers are the most serV'iceable. CookS 
 must be very careful in using enamelled stewpans, as should the contents of onfe Of these 
 vessels begin to boil, such is their power of retaining the heat that it will -be found th«' 
 boihng process will continue some time after the • vessel has been reinoveid -from the AiEeff 
 
■Ki CASSELLS NEW DICTIONAEY OF COOKERY. 
 
 Perhaps one of the best instances of the power enamelled stewpans have of retaining heat 
 is seen when one is used for the purpose of making brown thickening. It will be re- 
 membered that we recommended, when the butter and flour mixed together had assumed 
 a proper colour, that a few sHces of onion should be thrown in, and the stewpan removed 
 from the fire, without, however, any abatement in the stirring. Now, it will often be 
 found that the stewing process will continue for over ten minutes after the vessel has 
 been taken ofE the fire, and placed, say, on a cold slab. 
 
 Of course, anything can be fried in butter or oil at a lower temperature than that of 
 boiling water. Still, the extraordinary length of time the " bubbhng " of the butter goes 
 on is a capital means of impressing on the cook's mind how very much these vessels retain 
 the heat. Consequently, in stewing, when boiling is particularly to be avoided, an enamelled 
 stewpan should be carefully watched, and it will be foimd to be a good method to have a 
 Uttle cold water ready — a dessert-spoonful will be sufficient — ^to throw in to stop the boiling, 
 should it accidentally take place. A copper stewpan retains the heat comparatively 
 for a very short period. 
 
 Stewing is especially useful in a household where economy has to be practised. Less 
 fire is required than for any other mode of cooking ; indeed, to attempt to stew over a 
 large fire would be fatal to the success of the dish. Less attention is necessary ; a stew 
 may be prepared and set on the fire, where it can be left while household matters are being 
 attended to, an occasional stir with a wooden spoon being all that is needed. Less ex- 
 pensive joints are suitable for stewing ; and those which are tough or gelatinous — such as 
 knuckle of veal, mouse round of beef, thick or thin flank, leg of beef, etc. — may be thus 
 prepared, because the slow, moderate heat — which should not exceed about 165° — and 
 the moisture soften the fibres and render the meat tender and palatable. Then, agaiOj 
 as we have already said, in stewing nothing is wasted ; whatever juices escape from the 
 meat enrich the gravy, and where there are young children this gravy with some vegetables 
 will form a suitable and nourishing meal. Vegetables and floury foods may be added to 
 a meat stew, and a small quantity of mutton or beef will flavour the whole. When carrots 
 are used it is well to boil them first, as, when old, they require brisk cooking. Very Uttle 
 liquid is needed ; stews are frequently spoiled by neglect in this respect. The saucepan 
 is half-filled with water to cook a small piece of steak ; the consequence is that the steak 
 will probably be tough and the gravy will have very little flavour. 
 
 For preparing many stews the meat is first fried, to give it a nice brown appearance, 
 and also to harden the albumen on the surface, and so keep in, to some extent, the juice 
 and flavour. Dried herbs, onions, parsley, cloves, allspice, etc., improve a savoury stew, 
 since while the meat gives out some of its juices it absorbs the flavour of the condiments. 
 
 Haricot mutton is a good example of a stew. To make it, trim the fat off about two 
 pounds of the best end of neck of mutton, and cut it into rather thin chops. Fry them 
 for three or four minutes, till they are a nice brown colour. Eemove them from the pans 
 and fry in the same fat a carrot, a turnip, and an onion, cut into dice. The vegetables 
 should not get brown, but are merely fried to bring out their flavour. Lay the mutton in 
 a stewpan, pover with the vegetables, and pour in sufficient hot water or stock to barely 
 cover the whole. Put the lid on the stewpan, and let the contents just come to a boil; 
 then draw to the side of the fire to simmer gently for at least two and a half hours. This 
 is a dish which may with advantage be cooked the day before it is required, as if allowed 
 to get cold the fat will settle on the top and can then be readily removed. Some tumips 
 ^nd carrots, cut into fancy shapes and boiled separately, serve as a garnish. If to be 
 
VEGETABLES. liii 
 
 served at once, the fat, which always rises to the surface, must be skimmed off, otherwise 
 the gravy is apt to be too rich and greasy. 
 
 There is one method of cooking to which we must refer before passing on to the general 
 principles to be observed in cooking vegetables, and that is exposing meat to the heat of 
 an oven which is heated on the outside by steam instead of fire. This is, in fact, the 
 principle of Welbank's BoUerette. The joint is placed in an inner chamber, the outside of 
 which is surrounded with steam. Consequently the joint is cooked in its own juice and 
 vapours. The invention is valuable, owing to the very important fact that it is the most 
 economical way of cooking possible. At the same time it gives, comparatively speaking, 
 but little trouble to the cook. 
 
 Should it be wished that the joint should be a roast one, it has to be taken out of the 
 cooking pot and browned. However, when this is done the joint cannot compare with one 
 roasted before an open fire, or baked in one of the new ovens. I would therefore recommend 
 — ^when Welbank's Boilerette is used — keeping as much as possible to the plan of eating 
 the joiat simply as it is, as browning the outside merely makes it a sort of compromise - 
 between a roast leg of mutton and a boiled one. One other advantage possessed by 
 Welbank's Boilerette is that the hd is so constructed that while the meat is cooking, 
 in the inner chamber vegetables can be cooked by steam in a chamber above. 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 These may roughly be divided for cooking purposes into two classes — viz. roots and. 
 greens ; the chief point of distinction between the two being that in cooking the latter 
 class due attention must be given to the fact that a good colour is an important point for, 
 consideration. 
 
 One almost universal principle in cooldng vegetables is the addition of salt to the 
 water in which they are boiled ; and another, almost as universal, is that they should be 
 put into boiling and not cold water. The quantity of salt that should be added will generally 
 be found to be in the proportion of a good brimming table-spoonful of salt to half a gallon 
 of water. Now, the whole of the following vegetables should be cooked by placing them 
 in boiling water, salted in the proportion named. Turmps, cauliflowers, carrots, cabbages, 
 artichokes (French), asparagus, French beans, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, parsnips, new 
 potatoes, green peas, and vegetable marrow. The whole of these will, of course, vary as 
 to time, according to their size and age. Old potatoes should be placed in cold water, and 
 medium-aged potatoes in lukewarm water; the reason, of course, why old potatoes are 
 placed in cold water being that otherwise, the root being hard, the outside part of a large 
 potato would be apt to get pulpy before the inside got soft. In cooking Jerusalem arti- 
 chokes it seems to be an open question whether they should be placed in hot water or cold ; 
 they should, however, be treated like potatoes— when young and small, boiling water ; 
 when old, cold water. Spinach is, again, a vegetable about which there is much dispute ; 
 some cooks maintaining that the less water used the better the spinach ; some going even 
 so far as to steam the spinach, and use no water at all ; others boiling the spinach till it 
 is tender in an ordinary quantity of water, and then draining it, and rinsing it in cold 
 water before pbunding it in a mortar. My own opinion is, that the latter method is the 
 preferable one. 
 
liv cassell's new dictionary of cookery. 
 
 We next come to consider tte principle of obtaining a good colour. Of course, if 
 the vegetables — such as peas — are old and stale, and of a bad colour to start with, there 
 is no way of making them green by cooking. However, it wiU often be found that quite 
 young and fresh green peas — and we take peas merely as the type of a class — ^will turn 
 yellow in boiling. The chief points to be considered for the purpose of avoiding a bad 
 colour are — first, see that the water is boiling before the vegetables are put in ; secondly^ ~ 
 do not shut in the steam. 
 
 Consequently, whenever it is possible, let green vegetables boil in an open saucepan.' 
 Of course, when you have a shut stove and a hot-plate this is very easy ; when, however^ 
 it is an open fire, care must be taken to place the lid half open, in such a way that the 
 steam may escape, and yet afEord no opportunity for the smoke to be sucked into the 
 saucepan. Smoky vegetables are extremely disagreeable. To obtain a good colour for 
 carrots, they must be lightly scraped, and not peeled. 
 
 Another important point in cooking the majority of vegetables is to have plenty of 
 water. 
 
 First, if the quantity of water is not large, the moment the vegetables are put in 
 the water goes ofE the boil, whereas it is important the water should boil the whole 
 time. Again, it is well known how extremely disagreeable green-water smells ; con- 
 sequently, should, say, a cabbage be placed in a small quantity of water, this disagreeable 
 green- water becomes more concentrated. Let me here, however, give you one most important 
 word of warning with regard to green-water, and that is, never on any account allow 
 it to be poured down the sink, as the smell that will consequently arise will probably have 
 the very uncomfortable result of rendering the whole house disagreeable for some time 
 after. The best way of getting rid of green-water is to pour it down an outside sink. 
 
 Of course, in all culinary operations the first principle of cookery — viz. cleanliness — - 
 should be strictly attended to. But in cooking vegetables even extra care, if possible^ 
 should be taken on this point. For instance, in cooking potatoes the unsightly black 
 spots should be scooped out with the greatest care. In boiling spinach, the enemy to be 
 encountered is grit ; consequently the spinach should be washed in several waters, the 
 Water being sufiiciently deep to allow the dirt to settle. In boiling greens, and especially 
 oauUflowers and broccoli, those most disgusting enemies, caterpillars and little slugs, must 
 be met and defeated. 
 
 Now, in a close cauliflower or broccoli this is not always so easy a task as some would: 
 imagine ; but by letting the vegetables soak in cold salted water for an hour or more, 
 and occasionally shaking them, every one of these nasty creatures can be got rid of — for 
 to find a boiled caterpillar on one's plate at dinner is quite sufficient to destroy one's enjoy- 
 ment of the meal. The fact really implies that the cook is dirty ; and when this is the 
 case, it is difficult to really fancy any of the dishes that have necessarily passed through 
 her hands. 
 
 The re-heating of vegetables is a matter that should be considered in every econotnical 
 household. While good housekeepers know many appetising ways of re-heating meat, 
 cold vegetables are too often thrown out on the dust-heap or behind the fire. The remains 
 of cold cabbage, haricot beans, peas, and potatoes are considered absolutely useless, and 
 many odds and ends are thrown away which might make nice little luncheon or supper 
 dishes. 
 
 Take, for example, the remains of cauliflower. Probably all the centre has been eaten, 
 and only the stalks remain, but still much that is good is left. Cut all that remains over 
 
VEGETABLES. Iv 
 
 of tte cauliflower into neat pieces, melt a little butter or clarified dripping, and brush each 
 piece with it. Grate any stale cheese that has become too dry to send to table and lay 
 it on the vegetable. Sprinkle browned bread-crumbs plentifully over all. Place the pieces 
 of vegetable thus prepared on a baking-tin, and cook them in a moderate oven for twenty 
 minutes. The result is a supper dish that will not be despised. 
 
 Again, we will suppose that there is some cold cabbage in the larder. Do not warm 
 it up on the frying-pan, as is so often done. Instead of doing so, grease a small pudding 
 basin, then throw in browned bread-crumbs, and turn the basin round and round so that 
 these may adhere evenly to the sides. Having thus prepared the basin, press the cabbage 
 through a wire sieve with a wooden spoon, and season it with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. 
 Stir in about an ounce of butter, more or less, according to the amount of cabbage, and 
 an egg well beaten up. Mix the ingredients thoroughly, fill the pudding basin, and bake 
 in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. Turn it out on a very hot dish, and serve with 
 brown sauce. 
 
 The following is a good way of using up cold potatoes. Cut the potatoes into slices; 
 Make a sauce with a table-spoonful of gravy or good stock, an ounce of grated cheese, an 
 ounce and a half of butter, the juice of half a lemon, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and the well- 
 beaten yolks of two eggs. Whisk these ingredients over the fire until they thicken, or are 
 near boiling point. Place a layer of the sliced potatoes on a fireproof dish, mask with the 
 sauce, and so on in alternate layers till all the potatoes and sauce are used up. Sprinkle 
 grated cheese and browned bread-crumbs over the top layer of sauce. Bake for half an 
 hour, and serve hot. 
 
 Croquettes, made with haricot beans left over from a dish of the previous day, will be 
 found excellent. Pass the beans through a wire sieve, or mash them finely with a fork, 
 season with chopped onion, pepper, and salt ; add sufiicient bread-crumbs to make them 
 mould easily. Shape them either into balls or rolls ; egg and bread-crumb them, and 
 fry in deep hot fat imtil a nice brown colour. 
 
 Before leaving the subject of vegetables, one word in regard to preserved vegetables 
 in tins. Take, for instance, peas. Of course, hke everything else, peas are best when 
 fresh gathered and in season ; but it is really wonderful to what perfection the art of pre- 
 serving vegetables has been brought. However, just as in the case of tinned soups we gave 
 a few simple directions for the improvement of the contents of the tin when opened, so, too, 
 with vegetables much may be done to what we may call " increase the illusion." For 
 instance, take the case of a tin of peas. Of course, they are already cooked, and only 
 want warming up. Now, these tinned peas will be found, as a rule, to be not quite so 
 sweet as fresh-gathered young ones ; consequently, whenever you use a tin of peas as a 
 vegetable, or to be piled up in the centre of an entree, such as chicken cutlets, act as follows. 
 First obtain, if possible, a few leaves of fresh mint, and boil these leaves in a httle water 
 till tender ; then turn out the tin into a small stewpan, liquor and all, and put it on the 
 fire to warm gently. Suppose the tin contains a pint of peas, add about half a salt-spoonful of 
 salt, and one third of a salt-spoonful of powdered sugar. The sugar will, of course, cause 
 the peas to taste sweeter, and consequently more like the real fresh ones. Add the mint- 
 leaves, which, in addition to really improving the flavour of the peas, undoubtedly help 
 the imagination to regard them as fresh-gathered ones. Really, if the tin is a good one, 
 it requires a very sensitive palate to distinguish between fresh peas and preserved ones. The 
 same method must be pursued with French beans— the latter, however, are improved 
 by having a little chopped boiled parsley added instead of mint, and a piece of butter 
 
Ivi 
 
 CASSELLS NEW DICTIONARY OF COOKEEY. 
 
 mixed with them when they are strained ofE. In heating preserved vegetables (and this 
 applies to all kinds) do not allow them to remain on the fire longer than is necessary simply 
 to make them hot through. 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 Though entrees are, as a rule, served before joints, we have gone briefly through the 
 general principles to be observed in cooking joints before those to be considered in refer- 
 ence to entrees. It should be remembered, however, that cooks must learn simple things 
 before they attempt difficult ones. Too often it will be found that cooks have what may be 
 termed a few specialities — i.e. they have a few savoury dishes for which they are famed, 
 but at the same time invariably fail to send up the joint and vegetables correctly. That 
 cook is the most valuable who has the most all-round ability. Amateur cooks are very prone 
 to fall into the fault of wishing to begin at the higher branches of the science — for such it 
 deserves to be called — of cooking. Young ladies in households often like to " assist " (as 
 they call it) on certain occasions ; but if the truth were known, they probably hinder rather 
 than help the cook, who frequently has to leave ofi her own duties to wait upon the amateurs, 
 who generally choose jeUies or a trifle as the dish with which to commence their experi- 
 mental cooking. Cooking, as we have said, is a science ; and persons who think they 
 can begin at the wrong end will find, in point of fact, that they fail signally. 
 
 To give any general principles with regard to such an enormous variety of dishes as is 
 comprehended in the word entree is somewhat difficult. Some few general explanations,- 
 however, can be given of certain classes of entrees. As one very common specimen we would 
 mention kromeskies, taking them as a specimen of that large and usually very nice class 
 of entrees which may generally be described as a hot entree, in which the inside is soft 
 and moist, enclosed in a hard, thin cover. The cover is composed either of egg and bread- 
 crumbs or batter, the inside of which may be termed generally as croquettes, which we have 
 elsewhere described as a savoury mince moistened with sauce, if necessary bound together 
 with yolk of egg, dipped in beaten egg, rolled in bread-crumbs, and fried crisp. 
 
 Now it will be, I think, universally admitted tha'^ these croquettes and kromeskies 
 are far nicer when the inside is pappy instead of hard. 
 
 We will now imagine an inexperienced cook with the following difiiculty : — She is 
 aware that the croquettes are far nicer when moist, but then how is she to egg and bread- 
 crumb that which is so moist as to be almost a liquid ? We will suppose the case of some 
 croquettes made from the remains of a cold fowl. The meat has been cut off the bone, 
 and minced with the lean ham, mushrooms, etc. Now, the bones should have been put 
 on the fire, to assist in making the sauce that will moisten the mince. This sauce, with 
 the bones in it, should be boiled away — i.e. reducied by allowing the steam to escape, till 
 only sufficient to moisten the mince is left. If this is done properly, when cold the sauce 
 wiU be a hard jelly ; consequently, the mince when hot will be quite moist, and almost 
 hquid, but when cold will be quite hard. Now, this moist mince should be allowed to get 
 cold, and then shaped into Uttle pieces, either square for kromeskies, or into pieces 
 l^ce oval picnic biscuits, to look hke cutlets. None of the trimmings in so shaping them 
 need be lost, as they can easily be dissolved by heat and allowed to get cold again, which 
 they will soon do on a small plate or dish. Now, it is evident that these hard pieces when 
 cold can be readily egged over and bread-crumbed. Great care should, however, be taken 
 
ENTRIES. Ivii 
 
 in so doing, as should there be a flaw in the covering of egg, when fried the inside will run 
 out. 
 
 Careful attention should therefore be given to the following remarks. Suppose the 
 inside mince is very savoury— perhaps flavoured with truffle, or composed of those dehcioua 
 delicacies, oysters. Having egged and bread-crumbed the cold piece of mince, which the 
 jelly will have rendered firm, let it get dry, which it will soon do if left in a cool place. 
 Ee-dip it just as it is into freshly beaten-up egg, and shake some more fine dry bread- 
 crumbs over it. By this means you have a double doat, so to speak, round your mince. 
 Next, to cook them. We will suppose a small, deep stewpan half full of boiling fat or 
 lard. The croquettes are carefully but suddenly plunged in. What is the effect ? The 
 heat, of course, attacks the outside first ; consequently, the egg covering coagulates directly, 
 before the inside melts ; when the inside melts it is surrounded with a thin film which keeps 
 it together. Great care, of course, must be exercised in draining such moist croquettes and 
 in serving them ; but when the little cutlet or ball reaches the plate without accident, and 
 that delicious gush of inside pours on to the plate, owing to the fork of the eater being 
 inserted into it, how far preferable are such croquettes to those that have almost to be cut ! 
 Indeed, anyone can make the latter ; but when a good judge gets one of the former, or moist 
 ones, he knows that in proportion to the moisture is the skill of the cook. Should, indeed, 
 the inside be very moist and almost Uquid, he may smack his hps and mentally ejaculate, 
 " Ah, an artiste ! " Recollect, however, in maldng croquettes of which the insides are moist 
 that there must be a hmit to size. If very moist, they must be small ; indeed, a middling- 
 sized walnut should be the hmit, for it is evident that the strength of material of a thin 
 film composed of coagulated egg would not alone be sufficient to overcome the force of 
 gravity of a moist mass, the tendency of which is, of course, to become level. The best form, 
 indeed, to make these croquettes is cutlet-shape, or, as we have before described, the shape 
 of an oval picnic biscuit. My own experience is that this shape is less liable to break than 
 any other, besides which, when arranged round on a dish with plenty of fried parsley, by 
 placing a tiny claw of a crab or lobster — one of the small ends of the lesser legs, not the 
 pincers — a very ornamental red handle can be made to the cutlet to represent the bone. 
 
 While we are speaking generally on the subject of entrees, we would wish to comprise 
 under that heading savoury dishes in general ; and just as in soups and gravies we called 
 attention to the importance, of having brown roux or brown thickening constantly at hand, 
 so, too, in any estabhshment where savoury dishes are liked would we call attention to 
 the importance of the cook always having ready to hand, for seasoning, a small bottle of 
 what are usually called aromatic spices. The advantage of having these spices ready is 
 that an enormous amount of trouble is saved by having them at hand, and as they will 
 keep for years, and a small bottle lasts a very long time indeed, a httle exertion on the 
 part of the cook on some day when she has httle to do will have the very beneficial result 
 of improving the cookery of the house for years afterwards. 
 
 Before explaining how these herbs are made, I would mention a few of their, if not 
 every-day, at any rate weekly uses. Take the very common case of a rump-steak pie, 
 or that exceedingly nice, and when larks are cheap by no means expensive, dish — ^lark 
 pudding. Now, the addition of a very small pinch of these flavouring herbs makes a differ- 
 ence in the flavour of the pie or pudding in question that is almost incredible ; and yet 
 when the herbs have been mixed this improvement is gained at a cost so small as to 
 be scarcely appreciable. The flavour thus given to the lark pudding is particnilarly 
 marked, bringing out a gamy taste, which, considering the exceedingly small quantity 
 
Iviii cassell's new dictionary of cookery. 
 
 put in, will give the cook a very good notion of tie power these spices possess. Again, 
 they are of the greatest value in making various kinds of forcemeats for preserving game, 
 such as hare or grouse. These herbs are best made as follows : — Take half an ounce of 
 mace, half an ounce of nutmeg, one ounce of white peppercorns, and one ounce of cloves ; 
 half an ounce each of marjoram, thyme, and basil, and a quarter of an ounce of bay -leaves. 
 Have all these herbs and spices thoroughly dried, wrapping them up in several sheets of 
 paper, one over the other, in order to prevent the goodness evaporating, and then have them 
 thoroughly pounded as quickly as possible, and sifted through a fine sieve, and put in a 
 glass-stoppered bottle for use. These herbs can be used for a variety of purposes, and, as 
 I have already said, are paj-ticularly useful, in flavouring all kinds of forcemeats — espe- 
 cially when such forcemeat is made from calf's liver or calf's udder. 
 
 I would here remind you that in all cases where calf's liver k used for forcemeat for 
 dishes in which any kind of game is introduced, the addition of -the liver of the game 
 itself makes a vast improvement in the flavour. When game is plentiful there is never 
 any difiiculty in obtaining livers from the poulterers, who are obUged to throw away a 
 considerable quantity every day, as the liver is apt to get high long before the rest of the bird. 
 
 It is in the preparation of entrees more than any other class of dishes that the really 
 experienced cook wiU best exercise that primary principle of cookery — economy. 
 
 It may seem a somewhat strong statement, but I reaUy beheve it to be true, that the 
 materials out of which some of the most dehcious Parisienne entrees are made are in English 
 hotels and private houses either given to (and often refused by) an over-fed dog, or are 
 allowed to get putrid and breed fevers by being thrown into the dust-bin. There is an 
 old picture — of which, probably, Englishmen are proud — contrasting the English hog and 
 the French hog, the difierence being as striking as that between the fat and lean kine seen 
 in the vision of the Eastern king of old. Alas, that we should feel proud of this striking 
 contrast ! It is but too often the case that our glory is in our shame. I fear that the 
 contents of our EngUsh pig-tubs are a national disgrace. I have seen large pieces of bread, 
 whole legs of fowl, etc., floating in what might be called greasy stock, thrown to the 
 pigs. The pig-tub is too often the constant resource of idle and extravagant cooks, 
 whose one idea of household management is to get rid of the odds and ends. 
 
 Now a great variety of nice entrees can be made out of the cold remains of any of the 
 different joints. For instance, take the cold remains of a calf s head that has been sent 
 to table with tongue, brains, etc., and a white sauce flavoured with marjoram, which, 
 when cold, will be a jelly. Cut up the remains into small pieces. Take a Uttle of the 
 tongue, brains, and jelly, and make them adhere to a piece of what is called the horn 
 part of the calf s head ; see that the whole is nicely trimmed, sUghtly flour each piece 
 thus composed, dip it into batter, and fry in some boiling fat till it is of a beautiful golden 
 colour. Of course the batter, when it is properly made, will harden before part of the 
 inside dissolves ; this entree, therefore, has the advantage of coming to table a light- 
 looking fritter, which when opened presents a moist inside. It is, however, essential that 
 the fat be boiling, as otherwise the inside will melt, and break through the fritter skin. 
 Care also should be taken in making batter for entrees of this description that the batter 
 be sufficiently thick. The best method of preparing batter is as follows. Take half a 
 pint of milk, and mix it up thoroughly with the yolk of an egg, adding a pinch of salt, 
 then gradually add sufficient flour till the whole has become of a consistency rather thicker 
 than double cream. This batter should be mixed in a large basin, and worked perfectly 
 smooth with a wooden spoon. 
 
ENTRIES. ■ , liX 
 
 We have before remarked on the importance of making entrees the means of using 
 up the materials that have been left from the previous day. One very useful form is that 
 of salmi of game. Too often the remains of game are sent up, almost as they are, cold 
 for breakfast,, the result being that a large portion is wasted, the bones being generally 
 left half picked on the plates, while the gravy that was on the dish with the hot game 
 the day before, and into which what may be termed almost the essence of the bird has 
 run, is very probably wasted altogether. Suppose, therefore, some remains of pheasants, 
 partridges, or indeed any other kind of game, are sent down from dinner, a most dehcious 
 entree can be made in the following manner. Cut off all the best parts of the meat, such 
 as the wings, legs, breast, etc., and trim them neatly. Should it be found that there is not 
 quite sufficient, the addition of a single bird more, which can be roasted on purpose, might 
 complete the dish. Next take all the remains — the carcases, trimmings, etc. — and put them 
 on to boil gently in the remains of the gravy that was served with the game the day before. 
 After these bones have boiled so that they come out perfectly dry, send the gravy and the 
 small pieces of game that have fallen in it from the bones through a wire sieve— this will 
 have the effect of thickening the- gravy, and also of imparting to it a decidedly " gamy " 
 flavour. Add to this sauce — ^we suppose it to be half a pint in quantity, or a httle more^? 
 about a wine-glassful of sherry. It is astonishing how this glass of sherry helps to bring 
 about a complete alteration of flavour. This salmi sauce is now complete, and the joints of 
 game have simply to be warmed up in it, taking care, if the game was sufficiently cooked on 
 the first day, that it remains on the fire only sufficiently long to warm it through and no longer, 
 as otherwise the game would get over-cooked, and become hard and flavourless. We have 
 recommended sherry to be added to the sauce, but »t the same time would acknowledge 
 the superior quahties of Madeira for the purpose. Madeira can now be bought from, 
 respectable wine merchants at from 30s. to 48s. a dozen, and is, on account of its 
 quality, a far cheaper wine than any sherry that can be bought at the same price. When- 
 ever sherry is used for cooking purposes, golden sherry is better than pale dry wine. ■ 
 
 One most important point in the serving of entrees is their appearance. The cook . 
 should endeavour to please the eye as an accessory to the palate. 
 
 I will now run through a few of the most common faults that inexperienced cooks 
 exhibit in serving various entrees. A very common one is putting too much in a single 
 dish. The quantity should always be in proportion to the dish. Indeed, I have seen 
 dishes so piled up that, when first handed, persons have had considerable difficulty in avoid' 
 ing a sort of shower of pieces on their plate. This is, of course, rare ; but it will be very 
 often found that dishes are so filled that any attempt at ornament or garnish is simply, 
 impossible. Another equally common fault is, that when any entrees are served which 
 require gravy, this is not only too thin but too abundant. With regard to gravy poured 
 round entrees, few maxims can be better for the cook to bear in mind than — " Little and 
 good." Perhaps few dishes would better test a cook than hashed venison, made, say, 
 from the remains of a haunch, and as the same remarks would equally apply to hashed 
 mutton, a short description will not be superfluous. 
 
 We all know that generally inartistic dish called hashed mutton, once the scorn of 
 Mrs. Gamp. Certainly a large dish — ^large enough to hold a haunch — in which thin shces 
 of mutton float in an ocean of thin pale gravy, surrounded by sodden sippets of toast, cut 
 in the old-fashioned wedge pattern, does not look tempting. Suppose, however, we serve 
 hashed venison or mutton, nicely ornamented in a silver dish, in the way about to be 
 described— premising that, should you not possess a silver dish, we would recommend 
 
Ix cassell's new dictionary of cookery. 
 
 an ordinary vegetable dish instead — then its appearance alone is enough to induce 
 appetite. Mrst, make some strong gravy with a good colour, using up the bone of 
 the joint for the purpose ; get the gravy to a proper consistency, hke that of double cream, 
 dark in colour, and thickened with arrowroot in preference to brown thickening. Next, 
 in cutting up the meat, take care to avoid pieces of skin and gristle, and also avoid having 
 thick lumps of meat. Warm up the meat in this gravy, taking care, as before, not to let 
 the meat remain in for a longer period than is absolutely necessary to that end. Should 
 the hash be venison, a little port wine and red currant jelly can be added to the gravy ; 
 and should it be mutton, one or two onions fried soft and of a nice brown colour, and a 
 dessert-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, will" be found an improvement. Next, take the 
 dish, and, having thoroughly warmed it, pile the meat into a pyramid shape in the centre 
 of the dish, leaving the border of it as bare as possible. Pour the remainder of the 
 gravy gently over the piled-up meat, and place round the edge, instead of toast sippets, 
 a garnish made by stamping out with some cutters a few pieces of stale bread into the 
 shape of hearts, and frying them a nice bright golden-brown colour in some lard. Place 
 these near each other round the base of the pyramid, and one — choosing the best looking 
 ^^on the top of the pyramid, with a small silver arrow stuck in it. Of course this method 
 of preparing the hash will give rather more trouble than the ordinary inartistic method, but 
 then the difierence in the appearance of the two dishes more than repays the trouble; the 
 one, in fact, is an entree, and the other a dish only suitable for an early dinner for childrenj. 
 and which, if served in the kitchen, would too often — alas, for human nature !— be more 
 than half wasted. Really, hashed mutton, especially the remains of a haunch or saddle/ 
 nicely served the way we have described, makes an entree that no one need be ashamed 
 of sending to table. 
 
 Small crayfish make one of the very nicest-looking garnishes. If the entree, there- 
 fore, is hashed venison, a small crayfish could be placed at each of the four corners of the 
 dish and a small one on the top of the pyramid. To ornament hashed mutton with 
 crayfish would, I think, be going a little too far. 
 
 We will now take another form of ornamenting entrees — viz. fried parsley. Prob- 
 ably cooks are more indebted to parsley than to anything else for ornamenting their dishes. 
 The great secret, of fried parsley is, first, it must be fresh-cut double parsley, and rather 
 dark in colour ; secondly, it must be perfectly dry before it is fried. Again, the fat must 
 be boiling, and the greatest care exercised in draining the parsley so as not to break it 
 more than possible. The best method of frying parsley is to put it in a little wire basket 
 in a small deep stewpan. This basket can be easily made at home out of two-pennyworth 
 of wire, by a very little exercise of ingenuity. The advantage of the basket is that it can 
 be fitted to the stewpan, and the parsley can be lifted out bodily, thereby rendering 
 the risk of breaking very small. 
 
 Fried parsley can be used to ornament or garnish various kinds of patties, the dark 
 green contrasting well with the Ught-brown pastry. Fried parsley should also be served 
 with kromeskies, croquettes, fried sweetbreads, fried oysters, lobster cutlets, and a variety 
 of other light entrees. 
 
 To continue the idea of entrees made from remains of joints, we will next consider 
 the number of nice dishes made from boiled turkey, boiled fowl, etc. Suppose, for instance, 
 the dinner has consisted of one of these, with that very usual accompaniment — a boiled 
 tongue. Now, an.exceedingly pretty -looking entree can be made from them. Cut ofi the best 
 pieces of the white meat that has been left, and make a strong white stock with the bones* 
 
ENTEEES. Ixi 
 
 which may be thickened with a little white roux, and, if possible, two- or three-pennyworth 
 of cream. Warm up the meat in some of this sauce, pile it up as before in a pyramid 
 shape on the dish, and pour the remainder of the thick white sauce over it, the sauce being 
 made sufficiently thick to what is called " mask " the surface. Sprinkle over this white 
 pyramid, sparingly and lightly, a little rather coarsely chopped dark-green parsley, and 
 ornament the base oi the pyramid with thin pieces of white meat from the turkey, stamped 
 into the shape of cocks' -combs, or some such pattern, with a crimped edge. Also cut 
 some thin slices of the red tongue, and stamp these out in the same pattern. Warm up these* 
 slices of white meat and red tongue in a little hot clear stock, and place these shoes round 
 the dish at the base of the pyramid of meat, alternately red and white, having, of course, 
 the crimped edge outwards. A single small crayfish on the top of the pyramid, or a Uttle 
 sprig of parsley, will complete the dish. This entree, it should be borne in mind, is, in 
 addition to being a really handsome dish, a most economical one, for, with the exception of 
 the cream — which is not absolutely necessary — everything is used up, the bones forming 
 sauce instead of being left on the plates and given to the dog in the ordinary manner. 
 Of course, this dish will be vastly improved by the addition of button-mushrooms and 
 shces of truffle. When truffles are used, the alternate shoes of black, red, and white look 
 extremely nice ; or should the truffle be in small quantities, httle pieces can be reserved 
 to dot the stamped frill of the white meat — a small piece in the centre of each round. 
 
 In all dishes that have vegetables served with them, much may be done to improve 
 their appearance by having some at least of the vegetables stamped of a nice pattern ; 
 even in large dishes that do not come under the heading of entrees, boiled turnips and 
 boiled carrots always look better if roughly shaped Uke pears, and so cut that they will 
 stand upright. When placed alternately round a boiled leg or neck of mutton, over which 
 some caper sauce has been poured, the general appearance of the dish is far superior to 
 what it would be if simply out carrots and turnips were placed on haphazard; 
 
 To teach even the elementary principles of making dishes look elegant is, we fear^ 
 a task beyond the power of mere words. Some persons are naturally artistic, and others 
 are not. The cook who will go out on Sunday afternoon in a pink bonnet with a blue 
 parasol will never learn so to arrange colours in garnishing a dish as to really attract the 
 eye. We will, however, give a few hints to those — and we are glad to say they are many 
 ■ — ^who seem to possess the power of using garnishes when they have them. 
 
 First, much may be done with artificial flowers cut from turnips or beetroots. For 
 instance, a tongue glazed, with a paper frill round the root, and a nicely-cut flower made 
 from a turnip, and just tinged with cochineal in imitation of a roseate camellia, placed on 
 the top, always looks an exceedingly handsome dish. The turnip flower should be stuck 
 on to a small stick of wood, and a couple of bay -leaves tied on to the stick with it. This 
 method of ornamenting dishes, though old-fashioned, is very efEective. 
 
 For hot entrees and hot dishes of every description the following garnishes will be 
 found especially useful : — Fried croutons of bread cut into the shape of hearts or starsy 
 and fried a golden-brown colour ; button-mushrooms glazed — i.e. small button-mushrooma 
 that have had some bright glaze brushed over them ; pieces of white chicken or turkey 
 placed alternately with pieces of red tongue, each piece being cut into some pattern with 
 a cutter ; stamped pieces of vegetables, such as carrot, turnip, parsnip, artichoke, or even 
 the root of a French artichoke ; fried parsley or fresh parsley ; whole truffles or truffles 
 cut in slices or patterns ; cocks'-combs, plovers' eggs, small crayfish, prawns, stoned olives ; 
 occasionally, even, small slices of gherkins or the skin of a chilli. For instahce, take the. 
 
Jxii 
 
 CASSELLS NEW DICTIONARY OP COOKERY. 
 
 case of a filleted sole a la maitre d'hfitel. Place the slices of rolled grilled sole on end in 
 a silver disH, pour over them thick white sauce, made by boiling the bones of a sole in 
 a little milk, thickening it with a little white roux, and seasoning with salt and pepper. 
 Pass this sauce through a tamis to render it smooth, and take care that it is nice and thick. 
 Now place alternately on the top of each httle roll of fish a small piece — say the size of 
 the thumb-nail — of the bright-red skin of a chilli, and a shoe of the bright outside of a green 
 gherkin or the skin of a green chilli. What a wonderful alteration in the appearance of 
 'the dish ! Yet recollect the extra cost is next to nothing, and the whole cost of the dish 
 less than that of a plain fried sole in egg and bread-crumbs with melted butter. 
 
 It is in garnishing cold dishes, however, that the greatest efiect in appearance is generally 
 produced. For instance, a ham plain boiled, and one glazed and ornamented with a border 
 of what looks Uke butter, what a contrast ! Yet this border can be easily made with a 
 little practice, We will describe how to make a ham look nice, and will first suppose the 
 ham boiled sufiiciently, and allowed to get cold in the water in which it was boiled, in order 
 that the jelly, that gives a ham such a delicious flavour, may get cold in the ham itself, 
 instead of running out into the dish, as it would do had the ham been taken out of the 
 liquor. Next we will suppose some nice bright glaze has been placed over the surface 
 of the ham with a brush till it resembles in appearance a new mahogany dining-table. 
 Now, how are we to make the bright trellis-work to go round the ham ? First, take some 
 plain white lard and melt it, and, if it be winter time, add to it a little plain salad oil, in 
 order to make the mixture thiimer when cold. Now take an ordinary sheet of common 
 jiotepaper, and roll it into the shape of a cone ; take the point of the cone between the 
 thumb and finger of the right hand, and pour some of the melted lard, or mixed lard and 
 oil, into the cone, and so hold the point that the lard can be made at will to run out in a 
 thin stream at the end — i.e. so hold it that you can regulate the thickness of the stream or 
 stop it altogether. It is now evident that you can write or even draw with this cone, as 
 with a soft pen, making as desired either thick strokes or fine strokes. Of course, to do 
 it well a person must first be a good writer or drawer, and then have a considerable 
 amount of practice. A very little practice, however, will suffice to enable one to put a 
 pimple ornamental border round a ham. My own experience is as follows. I practised 
 on a clean, black, shiny tea-tray, as then the lard — ^which, of course, hardens as it falls — could 
 be scraped up with a knife (an ivory paper knife is best), re-melted, and used for the ham. 
 
 On the occasion of a birthday or at Christmas-time, a suitable device, such as " Many 
 happy returns of the day," or " A Merry Christmas," can be written in the centre of the 
 ham, and a border placed round the edge. A paper frill tied on to the bone, and plenty 
 of fresh parsley round the dish, will always ensure an inviting appearance. 
 
 One of the prettiest and most useful garnishes for cold dishes is beetroot, especially 
 for any white kind of dishes. Take, for instance, that exceedingly handsome dish when 
 properly prepared-^^a salad mayonnaise. First prepare the sauce, taking care to make 
 it sufiiciently thick, so that it can be used to mask or cover an uneven surface. It will 
 be found best, in making mayonnaise sauce, to commence by adding the oil drop by drop 
 to the yolk or yolks of eggs alone ; do not put in the pepper and salt or vinegar till after 
 it has got quite thick. Indeed, it will be generally found best in making an ornamental 
 salad of any description to reserve the pepper and salt till the whole salad is mixed' up 
 together. Having, by beating the oil and egg well together, got the sauce as thick almost 
 as butter in summer timie, arrange the salad. First pile the lettuce-leaves into a pyramid 
 phape, with the cut lobster inside, supposing the salad to be a lobster one. If you ha\e 
 
ENTRIES. Ixiii 
 
 a lettuce with a good round heart to it, reserve the heart, cutting the stalk flat, so 
 as to make it stand upright. This heart, if you hke, can be placed on the top as an 
 ornament, as it is green, or can itself be masked over with mayonnaise sauce. Next 
 cover the pyramid completely over with the mayonnaise sauce, and place the heart of 
 the lettuce, also covered, we will suppose, on the top. Arrange the small red legs of 
 the lobster round the base of the pyramid as garnish. Now take some coarsely-chopped 
 parsley, and place little specks of green alternately with little specks of lobster coral 
 over the white pyramid, the distance between these bright-green and red spots being 
 about half an inch. Place also a few bright-green capers on the top and round the base 
 of the pyramid. Inside the bend of the legs should be placed hard-boiled eggs cut in 
 quarters, stoned olives, filleted and washed anchovies, and a few capers. Should you have 
 a good-sized silver dish, place, if possible, a small red crayfish in each corner, with its small 
 claws stretched out. There are few dishes that repay the trouble of ornamenting more 
 than lobster salads, especially for occasions such as wedding breakfasts or suppers. When 
 you have a lobster salad, the red beetroot garnish is unnecessary. But suppose the salad 
 mayonnaise is a salmon mayonnaise, or a chicken or turbot mayonnaise, beetroot will 
 here take the place of the red lobster legs and the red coral. Eed strips of beetroot can 
 be placed in a sort of trellis-work round the base of the salad, and small specks of red beet- 
 root can be arranged on the white sauce alternately with the specks of green parsley. 
 
 One very pretty garnish for cold dishes is aspic jelly. Make some good aspic jelly 
 according to the recipe given in its proper place, and pour it while liquid into a large dish. 
 Reserve a little of the jelly, and add to it a few drops of cochineal, which will make 
 it a bright red ; pour this also into a similar-shaped dish, and allow the jelly to get 
 cold. You can now cut it into any shape you may wish — a diamond pattern is 
 as good as any — as the jelly will settle on the dish, which should have been filled about 
 a quarter of an inch deep. You will consequently have alternate pieces of a bright pale 
 yellow and bright red to place round any dish you may wish, such as cold chicken cutlets. 
 Again, the trimmings of the jelly can be beaten up with two forks, and piled up as a sort of 
 glittering heap in the middle of any dish. 
 
 Of course, the simplest and most useful of all garnishes is plain green parsley, and 
 you can generally tell by simply watching how a cook will send to table a common dish, 
 like a cold roast fowl, whether she is possessed of any taste or not. A cold roast turkey 
 glazed and sent to table tastefully decorated with parsley is always a handsome 
 dish. 
 
 One very common form of handsome dishes is cold turkey or chicken, boned, etc., 
 dressed with forcemeat, but modelled the shape, say, of a boar's head or a swan. These 
 dishes are made by means of copper moulds, tinned inside, which are rather expensive 
 to buy. The meat is placed in the mould warm, and mixed with a strong stock, which 
 being a jelly when cold causes all the meat to adhere together ; some liquid strong stock 
 can also be poured in after the mould has been shut together. On turning out, of course, 
 the shape is perfect, so far as the mould itself is ; it may occasionally, however, require 
 a little trimming. This moulded dish now requires glazing. Suppose, for instance, it 
 is a boar's head. Get some very strong dark but bright glaze ; keep the glaze dissolved 
 in a little basin placed in a larger one into which some boiling water has been poured. 
 In fact, heat the glaze just like what it so much resembles^ — glne. By means of two artificial 
 eyes and the kernels of two brazil nuts stuck in for tusks, the resemblance becomes very 
 perfect. Should the model be a swan, a real swan's head is generally placed on the top,- 
 
Ixiv cassell's new dictionary of cookery. 
 
 and joined to the mould hj means of a wire. If the mould be a pheasant, the head of the 
 pheasant can be affixed, and wings with the feathers on placed each side, while the long 
 tail-feathers are stuck in to represent the tail. 
 
 SWEETS. 
 
 We now come to consider the general principles of cooking to be observed in the pre- 
 paration of that large class of dishes that come generally under the name of sweets, and 
 will commence with that division of which eggs may be considered as the basis, such as 
 rich light puddings, omelets, and souffles. Now, as the latter of these best illustrates the 
 principles of this branch of cookery, we will commence with a short account of souffles in 
 general. The chief point in regard to souffles, is of course, the hghtness, and the lighter 
 the souffle the better the cook. The whole secret of the lightness of a souffle is the amount 
 of pains taken in beating the whites of the eggs to a stifE froth. By this means, when the 
 beaten whites are added to the batter, the whole mass contains an almost infinite number 
 of air-bubbles that expand with the heat, and cause the whole to rise. Consequently, the 
 greatest expedition should be used in sending the souffle to table, for, of course, as it cools 
 these bubbles contract, and the souffle, which probably on leaving the oven was an inch or 
 more above the souffle-pan, sinks to an inch below it on reaching the dining-room door. 
 Souffles can be flavoured with cheese or even game. Small souffles made from the remains of 
 woodcock or grouse are exceedingly nice, but great care should be taken in rubbing the flesh 
 through the wire sieve so as to ensure the meat being, so to speak, pulverised. Another 
 great secret of having successful omelets is to have perfectly fresh eggs. 
 
 In breaking eggs for any purpose, it should always be borne in mind that even with 
 the greatest care bad eggs will occasionally make their appearance. When eggs are taken 
 fresh from the nest there is practically no danger, still it seems imwise, in the absence of 
 any other satisfactory reason, to abandon a simple precaution which involves no trouble. 
 Consequently, always break each egg separately, or you will run the risk of having one bad 
 egg spoil the whole lot. 
 
 In making an ordinary omelet, of course the eggs are all beaten up together, yolks 
 and whites ; and, if you want a light omelet, the eggs should be beaten up till they froth. 
 In breaking the eggs, avoid what cooks, call " watery eggs " ; what I mean is, the white 
 of an egg, to make a good omelet, should be of the consistency of a jeUy-fish, and not look 
 thin and run away from the yolk. 
 
 The butter in the omelet-pan on the fire should also be frothed before the eggs are 
 added, and the cook should stir quickly and scrape as fast as she can the whole of the 
 bottom of the omelet-pan till the eggs and butter begin to set. The omelet-pan should 
 then be withdrawn a little from the fire, the omelet shaped with the spoon ; and in the case 
 of a savoury omelet, the omelet-pan should be tilted in front of an open fire, or have a good 
 hot salamander held over it. This will have the effect of making the omelet rise, and con- 
 sequently of being lighter, as well as slightly browning the surface. If gravy is served 
 with a savoury omelet, pour it round the omelet, and not over it. For a sweet omelet, 
 always have some white powdered sugar to shake over the top. 
 
 It is a somewhat open question as to whether it is advisable to mix milk with the 
 eggs in making omelets. As a rule, the French do not add milk, and it will generally be 
 noticed that omelets abroad are more yellow and streaky than in England, where it is a 
 very common custom to add about a couple of table-spoonfuls of milk to every three or 
 
SWKETS. Ixv 
 
 ^four eggs used. When milk is used, tte omelet takes a rather longer time to set than when 
 the eggs are used by themselves. 
 
 The greatest diificulty cooks experience in making omelets is to avoid burning them. 
 The fire should be fierce, but the omelet-pan should be withdrawn directly the omelet 
 sets. Also the stirring process should be kept up very briskly. 
 
 While on the subject of the management of eggs, we may next take that very common 
 English dish — custard. Now, just as the principle of making good omelets is to get 
 the eggs set without having them burnt, so may the secret of successful custard-making 
 be said to consist in getting the eggs to thicken without allowing them to set. 
 
 The chief point in making custard, or any form of liquid the consistency of which 
 depends upon heated eggs, is to know when to stop short of the boiling point. 
 
 In making custard, it will always be found most economical to use the yolks only. 
 The whites of the eggs add nothiiig to the flavour or excellence of the custard, and yet are 
 invaluable to the cook for a variety of purposes, from clearing soups to garnishing sweets 
 — ^the latter being a point upon which we shall touch on some future occasion. 
 
 The best method of making a custard is first to flavour the milk, by boiling the 
 bay-leaves in it (if these are used), previous to adding the yolks of eggs. When, 
 however, the latter are added, let the mixture — i.e. the milk, sugar, and yolks — be 
 poured into a jug, which should be placed in a saucepan of boiling water. The cold 
 vessel will, of course, take the water immediately off the boil. Keep stirring the custard 
 till it begins to thicken ; when nearly sufficiently thick, take the jug out and plunge it 
 into some cold water, but still continue the stirring for a time. By this_ means all fear 
 of curdling will be done away with. Should the custard be flavoured with essence of 
 vanilla (that most delicious of essences), more of the flavour will be retained if it is 
 added when the custard is nearly cold. Should vanilla in stick be used it will be found 
 best to tie a piece up in a small muslin bag, and boil this in the milk till a sufficient 
 flavour is imparted. This small bag of vanilla will do over and over again, though of 
 course it must be left in for a longer period each time it is used, as naturally the 
 substance will lose some of its virtue on every occasion, and consequently more time will 
 be required to draw out whatever of flavour is left in it. The flavour of the stick 
 vanilla will be found to be far superior to the essence of vanilla sold in bottles ; indeed, 
 the latter varies so much in quality that it is impossible to say how much should be 
 added to any given quantity of custard. 
 
 A little nutmeg should always be grated over the surface of the custard before it is 
 sent to table. 
 
 Of all departments of cookery probably that which is comprised under the general 
 name of " sweets " gives the greatest range wherein the real artist can exercise his skill. 
 We will not now enter into the unpractical subject of describing how to build those magni- 
 ficent but useless temples of sugar- work, etc., that figure at wedding breakfasts and great 
 suppers, but will discuss the practical details of the general principles of making sweets 
 look nice. As a rule, sweets are so ornamental in themselves that they do not require 
 what may be generally called garnish. For instance, a jelly or a mould of blancmange 
 is so pretty in itself that, provided it be bright, and put into either an equally bright cut 
 glass dish or a silver one, studied embellishment is superfluous. Occasionally, indeed, 
 httle pieces of cut lemon may be placed round the edge of the dish ; but this is not 
 necessary, unless the dish be rather too large for the mould, in which case the cut lemon 
 will cause it to look less bare. 
 / 
 
Ixvi cassell's new dictionaey of cookery. . 
 
 The great secret of making jelKes bright is to take pains in the clearing. Patience 
 and cleanliness are indispensable ; also bear in mind that jelly-bags should never be 
 washed in soap and water. They should, after being used, be simply rinsed and re-rinsed 
 in boiUng water and wrung out. 
 
 One important point in making sweets look nice is to exercise some little taste in 
 colouring. We will suppose, for instance, that there are two moulds in the house : the 
 top of one is in the very common shape of a bunch of grapes, and the other the almost 
 equally common shape of a cucumber. Now it is at once obvious that the cucumber should 
 be coloured green and the grapes red. Suppose, therefore, two moulds are being made 
 af, say, blancmange. The green cucumber and the red grapes on the white base will form 
 two very pretty dishes. Unless, however, the tops are done carefully, the dish wiU present 
 a very poor appearance — indeed, in all ornamenting, unless the decoration be done neatly, 
 it had far better not be done at all. Slovenly ornament in dishes corresponds to tawdry 
 finery in ordinary dress. 
 
 We will suppose, therefore, the blancmange prepared and in a Uquid state ready to 
 be poured into the moulds. First pour just sufficient water into each mould to fill up the 
 shape of the bunch of grapes and the cucumber. Pour this back again into two glasses — 
 elar-et glasses are best — and notice the exact quantity required for each design. Then, 
 having emptied the water, fill the respective glasses with the warm blancmange to exactly 
 the same spot. Add the colouring matter, which will, of course, be cochineal for the 
 grapes and spinach-juice for the cucumber. As only a few drops of cochineal are required, 
 it will not matter adding such a small quantity, but whenever colouring matter is used in 
 which more than a few drops are required allowance should be made, or too much will be 
 poured into the shape. When the exact quantity is coloured, transfer it to the shape, and 
 let it set quite firm before any more is poured into the mould. If possible, set the mould 
 in some chopped ice, which will cause such a small quantity to set almost immediately. 
 When the shape is quite set, add the remainder of the blancmange — only be careful 
 how you fill the mould. If, for instance, you simply pour the blancmange in, especially 
 if it is lukewarm, the fresh quantity will partially re-dissolve what has been set in the 
 shape, and the white and red or white and green, as the case may be, will run into one 
 another, and the efiect will be quite spoilt. The best method of filling up the moidds is 
 first to wait till the blancmange is nearly cold — of course, avoiding waiting too long, as 
 it would then set in the basin. Then take a spoon, and pour the first part into the moidd 
 a spoonful at a time ; this will settle gently down over the coloured part, but will not 
 mix. After the mould has been filled by this means — say, an inch deep — the whole may 
 be gently added, taking care to pour very slowly, and to keep the vessel from which the 
 blancmange is emptied as close as possible to the mould, for if it be poured in a manner 
 corresponding to frothing beer up in a glass it will probably break the coloured shape. 
 
 There is a great art in turning out jellies from moulds. Of course, a very stiff jelly 
 is easily turned out, but then stiff jelly is never good. The best moulds for jelUes are copper 
 ones tinned inside. The mould, after being taken out of the ice, should be placed for a 
 few seconds in lukewarm water ; the dish into whicb the jelly is going to be turned should 
 be placed upside down, so that the bottom of the mould comes exactly in the centre of 
 the dish ; the two should be quickly turned over together, and very often the jelly will 
 at once slip of its own accord. When the mould is first raised it should be only hfted 
 an eighth of an inch"; if the jelly has sUpped all round, the mould can be slowly 
 raised ; should, however, the jelly have slipped only on one side, instantly put the mould 
 
SWEETS. Ixvii 
 
 close on to the dish again. One very good way of causing the jelly to slip is to take 
 the dish and mould in both hands, keeping the mould firmly touching the dish, hands 
 high in the air, the mould being upright. Then suddenly bring the dish downwards 
 with a jerk, and stop dead short when the hands are lowered. The jelly itself, having of 
 course acquired a momentum downwards, will have a tendency to go lower, and will often 
 by this means sUp from the mould into the plate. Indeed, turning out jellies requires 
 a certain amount of pluck ; a nervous cook is far more apt to fail than a strong-minded 
 one. Some persons think that shaking and patting the mould assists ; very often, however, 
 this patting results in breaking. When earthenware moulds are used it is of no use plunging 
 them into warm water. Earthenware conveys heat so slowly that the result would be, 
 either to convey so little heat that no effect at all is produced, or so much that all the out- 
 side of the mould will run. In turning anything out of an earthenware mould the only 
 way is to jerk it out as we have described. If thfe substance inside the mould is firmly 
 set, it will be advisable to see how far it can be eased round the edge by pulling gently 
 with the tips of the fingers. The substance is elastic, and will adhere together, and can 
 be pulled from the edge of the mould all round, after which it will of course turn out easily. 
 When copper moulds are used for jellies the greatest care should be taken in dipping 
 them into lukewarm water, first, that the water be not too warm ; secondly, that the mould 
 does not remain in too long. Of course, the efiect is to very slightly dissolve the outside 
 rim — only the rim — so that the jelly will have a less tendency to adhere to the mould- 
 One very useful medium for ornamenting sweets is whipped cream or whipped white of 
 egg. Of course whipped cream is in itself a very nice sweet ; whipped white of egg can, 
 however, be used as a cheap substitute. Take, for instance, that most delicious supper 
 dish — a trifle. Good trifle is made by soaking ratafias and macaroons in various kinds of 
 liqueurs, though for ordinary purposes sherry and brandy are used instead. The whip 
 for the trifle is generally best made some time before it is wanted, as by keeping a few hours 
 it gets firmer instead of softer. The firmest whip is made by mixing the whites of eggs 
 beaten up into a stiff froth with, say, a pint of fresh cream to two whites, three ounces 
 of powdered and sifted white sugar, and about a wine-glassful of some rich sherry — the 
 sweeter the better. The whole should be beaten up thoroughly, the froth, of course, 
 being skimmed off the top, when sufficient rises : it should be placed gently into a sieve, 
 standing over a dish. A little cream, etc., will be found to drop from the froth, and this can 
 be poured back into the basin, the beating or whisking process being continued till all is 
 frothed up. This froth can be made the day before it is wanted, and will be found an 
 exceedingly useful garnish for all sorts of dishes besides the trifle, as it is always easy to 
 make more than is quite necessary for this elegant centre dish. 
 
 For instance, take that nice but somewhat inelegant dish— stewed Normandy pippins. 
 Let the pippins be placed in a glass dish surrounded by their juice,' which can be coloured 
 red by a little cochineal. Then take about a tea-spoonful of the whip we have mentioned, 
 and pile it on the top of each pippin, and take a very few of those tiny httle sweetmeats 
 called hundreds and thousands, and sprinkle them over the whip Hghtly so that they stick 
 to it, and observe what a wonderful change will take place in the appearance of the dish. 
 The hundreds and thousands should not be added till the last moment, as they get dis- 
 solved in the whip. 
 
 One very useful method of ornamenting dishes and particular cakes is what is known 
 as icing. We all know how very handsome, and at the same time how exceedingly rich, 
 indigestible, and expensive a wedding cake is. We will, however, take the simple case 
 
Ixviii cassell's new dictionary of cookery 
 
 of a child's birthday; and, naturally, a- cake at tea is one of the features of the day's fes- 
 tivities. What parents should endeavour to do is as much as possible to please their 
 children, but never at the expense of their health. Now, a simple, plain cake can be bought, 
 or made at home ; but what a difEerence if this simple, wholesome cake is iced over ! And, 
 after all, what is icing ? Nothing but sugar and white of eggs ; and sugar in moderation 
 being good for children rather than otherwise, when the icing few the cake is home-made, 
 and consequently unadulterated, there can be no harm in the children eating it. 
 
 Icing for cakes can also be made into ornamental buttons, white and pink, by baking 
 the icing on a sheet of paper, the pink buttons, of course, being coloured with cochineal. 
 Icing is easily made as follows. Take, say for a good large quantity, six whites of eggs, 
 and place them in a large basin, and have ready about a pound and a half of very finely 
 powdered and sifted white sugar. Mix these well together with a large wooden spoon, 
 adding the sugar gradually, occasionally squeezing in a httle of the juice of a fresh and 
 rather green or acid lemon. This must be worked together with the spoon, and suf&cient 
 sugar added till the whole mass becomes a thick, but at the same time liquid, and some- 
 what shiny substance. Of course, the purity of the white is of great importance, and, 
 consequently, care should be taken in the selection of the sugar, which should be the whitest 
 that can be obtained. This icing can be now spread over any cake, and one of the best 
 spreaders will be found to be an ordinary broad ivory paper knife. Place a large sheet of 
 white paper over the cake to keep ofE the dust, and place it in a warm place to dry ; then 
 ornament the top with- any wholesome sweets you may think fit, such as candied fruits 
 of various kinds, or dried cherries. Eeally, icing a cake is so simple and so cheap, and gives 
 children so much delight, that it is to be regretted it is not more generally resorted to on 
 festive occasions. 
 
 One great advantage of the icing is that you can pass ofE a plain and consequently a 
 wholesome cake for a very grand one ; by this means the children can have a good thick 
 slice, and come two or three times, without being made bilious the following day. Oranges 
 filled with jelly can be cut up to ornament the top of a plain cake for children. 
 
 Fruit pies and puddings require but little comment. One word of warning, however, 
 against that too common fault of mixing fruits indiscriminately. Of course, some fruits 
 are improved by mixing ; for instance, I consider currant and raspberry tart to be the very 
 king of tarts, but some persons are disposed to mix apples and plums, apples and black 
 currants, etc. As a rule, fruit pies are best when they only contain one fruit. 
 
 The best sauce for puddings is German custard, which is made by putting, say, four 
 yolks of eggs into a small stewpan, and adding to them a couple of ounces of pounded 
 sugar, some of which before being pounded has been rubbed on a little lemon-peel. Add 
 a glass of golden sherry, and beat this up over a very slow fire till it gets warm and frothy, 
 but do not let it get too hot, as should it boil it would be utterly spoilt. 
 
 In making sweet sauce for puddings some sherry and sugar should be added to melted 
 butter made with milk, but instead of adding brandy, as is usually recommended, try an 
 equal quantity of rum instead. Indeed, a couple of table-spoonfuls of rum with a Uttle 
 sugar and melted butter make an admirable sauce of itself. 
 
THE LARDER. bcJX 
 
 CHEESE. 
 
 Witli regard to cheese, little need be said; to enter into the general principles of 
 making cheeses would be far from our province. With regard to choosing cheeses, 
 some of the best to be obtained now at reasonable prices are those that come from 
 Canada. Some are, indeed, so similar to our own Cheddar and Cheshire that few can 
 tell the difEerence. In choosing a Stilton, always select one that combines moisture 
 with blue motdd. This is by far the best cheese of the country. What is the secret 
 of its composition that makes it so far superior to other cheeses I cannot say. 
 However, be on your guard against a worthless imitation which resembles it in 
 shape only. Persons attempt to sell this cheese as a sort of Stilton. Its outside is 
 smoother than genuine Stilton, and its inside inferior in flavour to Dutch and common 
 American. 
 
 The best of foreign cheeses are Brie, Gorgonzola, Gruyere, and Camembert. Parmesan 
 cheese is thought by many an improvement to soups, and in Italy is almost invariably 
 handed round with every soup served. 
 
 THE LARDER. 
 
 We will now run lightly through the ordinary daily duties of a cook, finishing up with 
 that greatest of events in the everyday life of an Englishman — ^his dinner. Of course, 
 the cook must consider herself responsible for the larder and its contents, and should con- 
 sequently be careful not' to allow bloaters, haddocks, lobsters, crabs, etc., or any strong- 
 smelling thing of a similar description, to remain among the cold meat, butter, etc. Again, 
 care should be taken to keep the larder scrupulously clean, and the shelves, especially if 
 of wood, should from time to time be scrubbed. Let me here also warn servants generally 
 against that too common practice of putting meat on the wooden shelf instead of on a 
 dish or slab. For instance, the butcher sends, perhaps, a couple of pounds of gravy beef, 
 and a careless cook, in hot weather, places this piece of raw meat on a wooden shelf, the 
 result being that the blood adheres to the shelf, and becomes a fruitful cause of contaminating 
 the whole larder. . 
 
 The atmosphere of the larder must be dry, cool, and airy, if the meat that is hung 
 in it is to be kept in good condition. The best meat will go wrong if kept in a damp, ill- 
 ventilated spot. It is obvious, therefore, that the larder must not face the sun, and 
 that it should not be near enough the kitchen to be influenced by the heat of the kitchen 
 fire. It should have wire-gauze in the window frame instead of glass. Perfect ventilation 
 may be ensured by having ventilators at opposite sides of the room, such as over the window 
 and over the door ; or the panels of the door as well as the window may be made of wire- 
 gauze. 
 
 Stone-work should be used wherever possible in the fittings of the larder, and the floor 
 should be of asphalt or of concrete. The shelves should be covered with paper, such as 
 old newspapers. Plenty of strong iron hooks should be fixed into the ceiling, from which 
 to suspend hams, joints of meat, poultry, and game. A refrigerator is an indispensable 
 
Ixx cassell's new dictionary of cookery. 
 
 adjunct of tlie larder, especially in hot weather. By keeping perishable articles in good 
 condition it soon pays for itself. Earthenware jars, fitted with lids, and labelled with the 
 names of their respective contents, should also find a place in the larder. Old biscuit 
 canisters can also be utilised for a variety of purposes, and a good supply of wire meat 
 covers, to keep flies from meat, fish, etc., should be provided. Various measures are 
 necessary in the larder, in order that the exact quantities necessary for the dishes to be 
 cooked may be used — no more and no less. The tablespoons, dessertspoons, and teaspoons 
 used for the purpose should be of the regulation size, and the cup should be the regulation 
 kitchen cup, holding half a pint. In measuring dry materials, we may here remark, a 
 spoonful means that whatever is measured should round as much above the spoon as the 
 spoon rounds underneath. When a level or a heaped spoonful is required, it is so stated 
 in the recipe. A spoonful of hquid is the spoon full to the brim ; half a tea-spoonful should 
 be measured lengthways of the spoon — not across. 
 
 It need hardly be added that a set of weights and scales should form part of the equip- 
 ment of every larder, and that nothing should be received from the tradespeople without 
 checking the weight of the goods. Many unpleasant disputes would be prevented if this 
 were universally done. 
 
 BREAKFAST AND LUNCHEON. 
 
 The first meal of the day is, of course, breakfast. I believe a substantial breakfast 
 to be most conducive to good health, yet too often we find this meal the most neglected 
 of the day. A good breakfast and a light lunch are far better than a Hght breakfast and 
 a heavy lunch. The cook should always send up to the breakfast-table any cold joint of 
 meat that is in the house ; the cold joint must be placed on a good-sized clean dish, all 
 wafers of fat that have settled from the gravy being first removed, and the whole joint 
 nicely ornamented with fresh parsley. The parsley that has decorated a cold joint will 
 always do to use for cooking purposes, so there is no need to ornament the meat with a 
 stingy hand. One of the most common of breakfast dishes is fried bacon. Here, again, 
 let the cook be careful to have the dish thoroughly hot, or else the fat from the bacon 
 wiU settle and get cold in the dish, and make it look far from tempting. Fried bacon is a 
 very good proof of a cook for one reason — viz. it tests that elementary principle of 
 cooking, cleanliness. Next time you have a dish of hot fried bacon, observe the fat, and 
 see if it is streaked with black ; if so, it shows the cook does not properly clean her frying- 
 pans, and no good cooking can ever proceed from dirty cooking utensils. 
 
 Bloaters should always be split open like a haddock, and cooked on a gridiron kept 
 for the purpose. The gridiron should be rubbed with a piece of mutton fat to prevent 
 the bloater from sticking. After the bloater is cooked, rub a little piece of butter over 
 the inside, which makes it look rich and moist, and improves the flavour. One great 
 advantage of cooking bloaters this way is, you avoid that dreadful gush of offensive steam 
 that issues forth on opening them when they are cooked without first being treated as 
 described above. Indeed, the great drawback to this fish is the unpleasant odour. 
 
 In poaching eggs, it will be found that they assume a white appearance when a little 
 drop of vinegar is mixed with the boiling water in which they are poached. Great care 
 
DINNER. Ixxi 
 
 should be taken, however, to drain off the water from the flat strainer used for taking out 
 the eggs, as they will otherwise taste acid. 
 
 In frying eggs, he sure to trim them so as to have the yolk in the centre, surrounded 
 by a neat rim of white. Too much fat in the frying-pan is conducive to increasing the 
 large bubbles, and results sometimes even in breaking the yolks of the eggs. Take care 
 also that the fire is not too fierce, as then the under surface of the eggs will get burnt and 
 taste disagreeable. 
 
 Sausages are always best home-made, for the most convincing of reasons — viz. that you 
 then, and only then, know what is in them. Every house should have a small sausage machine, 
 which, in addition to making simply sausages, will make rissoles, forcemeats of all kinds, 
 as well as croquettes. Indeed, a small hand sausage machine repays itself quicker than 
 almost any other kind of kitchen utensil. Sausages are best served up on toast ; then the 
 fat that runs from them can be poured over them and soaked up and eaten, and not emptied 
 to help to swell that household disgrace — the cook's grease-box. 
 
 Kidneys should be cooked so that they retain the red gravy : they are nicest done 
 on the gridiron. After they are taken off, a little piece of butter should be placed in the 
 inside of each, and a tiny pinch of chopped parsley dropped on the butter. 
 
 In many houses it will be found that the staple breakfast dish is cold bacon and boiled 
 eggs. Now, although mew-laid eggs are very nice boiled, yet they are often difficult to 
 get, and when bought are, especially in the neighbourhoods of large towns, very expensive. 
 Shop eggs are only eaten boiled by persons whose palates are, to say the least, not very 
 keen. Why not, however, make the eggs you boil and the butter you spread on your 
 bread into a savoury omelet ? Take, say, three eggs, two ounces of butter, a little pepper 
 and salt, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a piece of onion or shallot the size of the 
 top of the first finger, and chop that finely with the parsley, and you have a far more 
 palatable method of serving the eggs. The omelet, being eaten with plain bread, is 
 quite as economical, and far nicer. 
 
 Luncheon is generally a make-up meal, at which it is lawful to serve up half fowls 
 and cut tarts, and is so comprised in the details of that greater meal, dinner, that, simply 
 observing that what is left from dinner can generally be utilised at lunch, we will at once 
 proceed to discuss that great event of the day, and will run briefly through the general 
 principles to be observed in serving a dinner for, say, ten or more persons. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 We will first have a few words, to say on that somewhat neglected English accom- 
 paniment, " appetisers." First appearances go a great way, and the cook should exercise 
 all her art and taste in presenting that deHcate organ, the stomach, with a hon bouche to 
 induce it to throw out its gastric juice with no sparing hand, in order to dissolve and digest 
 all the glories that are to follow. Perhaps the very best commencement to a good dinner 
 is half a dozen native oysters — small, round, white, plump, and fat, and resting on a Httle 
 shell black almost on the outside, but like mother-of-pearl when the deHcious little fish 
 has been swallowed. Brown bread and butter is often served with oysters ; but when 
 taken as an appetiser at the commencement of dinner they should be eaten quite alone 
 — no pepper, no vinegar, etc. Little natives are excellent appetisers : the large coarse 
 
Ixxii 
 
 CASSELL'S NEW DICTIONAEY OF COOKERY. 
 
 oysters, though admirably adapted for stewing and for a variety of cooking purposes, 
 have rather a contrary efiect. 
 
 It is customary to have little dishes of what we term hors d^oeuvres placed in front of 
 each person. I will mention a few of the best : — Ohves, sardines, pieces of Dutch 
 herring, filleted anchovies, capers, and small radishes. 
 
 There is one Uttle appetiser, so pretty and yet so effective, and so admirably adapted 
 to commence a dinner, that I will describe it. First cut out some small round pieces of 
 stale bread the size of small draughtsmen, and fry them of a nice golden-brown colour 
 in some lard, and allow them to get cold. Next stone some ohves neatly, and fillet and 
 carefully wash some anchovies. Roll up the filleted anchovies into a little ball, and fill 
 the stoned ohves with them. Next place a little drop of mayonnaise sauce, about the 
 size of the top of the little finger, in the centre of each round of fried bread, and place the 
 stoned ohve filled with the filleted anchovy on it on end ; the mayonnaise sauce, if made 
 properly — viz. as thick as butter — assisting to keep the olive upright. Then place on 
 the top of the ohve another little drop (very small) of mayonnaise sauce. The whole 
 should be eaten at one mouthful. The mingled taste of the anchovy and ohve, moistened 
 as it is with the mayonnaise sauce, is exceedingly delicious, the crisp fried bread assisting 
 to bring out the flavour. 
 
 These pretty little appetisers may be handed roimd, and a httle highly-flavoured 
 aspic jelly may be placed by way of garnish on the dish with them. 
 
 We next come to the soup, which we presume the cook to have prepared the day 
 before it is wanted. As a rule, it will always be found best to have clear soup, i.e. if only 
 one soup is supplied. A thick soup at the commencement of dinner is too heavy, and 
 is apt to spoil the appetite for what is to follow. For instance, thick mock-turtle or thick 
 ox-tail soup are admirable for lunch, but at dinner are far better clear than thick. Should 
 there be two soups, of course one should be clear and the other thick ; but, as a rule, even 
 then the thick soup should be in the form of a white soup or a bisque, rather than a thick 
 soup that owes its thickness to brown roux. Clear turtle is far superior to thick, both 
 in flavour and in the fact that it does not take away the appetite so readily. 
 
 Next follows the fish. If only one kind is served at dinner, regard should be had to what 
 goes before and what comes after. For instance, a rich soup had better be followed by 
 a plain fish. Indeed, the great principle to be constantly borne in mind in ordering a 
 dinner is to avoid a succession of rich things, and also to avoid a repetition of the same 
 flavour. For instance, it is obvious to anyone how exceedingly disagreeable three dishes 
 would be running as follows : — Bisque of lobster for soup, turbot and lobster sauce foi 
 fish, and lobster patties for an entree. Still, it will often be found that codfish and oyster- 
 sauce are immediately followed by oyster patties. Some repetition of flavour during 8 
 dinner is, however, unavoidable. Suppose, then, in a dinner where there are four entrees, 
 you have lobster sauce with the fish, the same lobster that made the sauce will, in addition, 
 make a very nice dish of lobster cutlets. Warn the servants, however, in handing the 
 entrees to take round the lobster cutlets last of all, so that there is a choice of three difierent 
 dishes between the lobster sauce and the lobster cutlets. 
 
 Too often in small houses, where the extent of kitchen range and kitchen utensils 
 is necessarily limited, when delay or confusion arises in a dinner, it is owing to a want 
 of forethought in those who order the dinner. The dinner should so be ordered that at 
 any rate a certain number of the dishes can be prepared and finished beforehand. Again 
 — and such cases are very numerous — where, perhaps, there is only one servant to wait) 
 
DINNER. Ixxiii 
 
 regard should be had to the dishes ordered. For instance, contrast the trouble to both 
 cook and waiter given by the two fishes — boiled salmon and stewed eels. The stewed 
 eels can be prepared and finished early in the day, and simply require putting into 
 a hot dish. In serving the stewed eels, the waiter has merely to go once to each person. 
 With regard to salmon, it must be, of course, boiled at the last moment ; it also requires 
 some fish sauce, as well as cucumber. In addition, therefore, to taking the fish to each 
 person, there is the sauce to be handed, as well as the cucumber, and, probably, in addition 
 to the last sauce, many will ask for some anchovy sauce, or cayenne pepper, etc. ; the one 
 waiter will get muddled, and forget to take round the wine. 
 
 I do not mean that this is necessarily the case ; but when persons give little dinners, 
 and know that their servants are not altogether first class, a little forethought in ordering 
 will often save an infinity of trouble. It is, indeed, quite possible to order a dinner, and 
 a small one too, that implies so many saucepans in use at once that the establishment is 
 not equal to the task, nor the fireplace large enough to hold the saucepans, even were they 
 in sufficient quantity. Avoid, also, in ordering dinner, to have too many entrees or other 
 dishes that can only be done at the last moment. For instance, fried oysters, kromeskies, 
 mutton-cutlets, and a savoury omelet, would be a sore trial to a cook were they ordered 
 as four entrees together. The probable result would be that the kromeskies and fried 
 oysters would be cooked before and warmed up in the oven, and in consequence the 
 outsides of the kromeskies would be heavy and the oysters tough. The cutlets would also 
 be cooked and kept warm for a time. Now of all dishes there is probably none so dependent 
 on immediate serving as cutlets. Warmed-up cutlets are never fit to eat. Indeed, the 
 cook should never begin to cook cutlets till three or four minutes before they are wanted. 
 They should be red and juicy inside, or they are not worth eating. A nice mutton cutlet 
 — i.e. as I have said, red inside and not blue, and black out — is a certain sign that the cook 
 is a good one. 
 
 No dinner can be properly served unless there is a perfectly good understanding be- 
 tween the cook and those waiting at table. It will be found very desirable for the cook 
 to arrange beforehand some signal with those upstairs, in order that she may know when 
 to commence getting any particular dish ready. It is so easy for those waiting to touch 
 the dining-room bell in order to warn the cook. Too often the cook, from over-anxiety, 
 will become fidgety, and get everything ready too soon, the result being a series of over- 
 cooked dishes, either half cold or having that warmed-up taste which so often spoils them. 
 It is far better at dinner to have occasional pauses than to have a series of spoilt dishes. 
 Indeed, a little management on the part of the host or hostess will very often smooth over 
 these awful pauses in th"e middle of dinner. A Httle intentional delay over eating what 
 was last handed and a brisk conversation are great helps. The wine can also always be 
 taken round while waiting for the cook to send up the next dish. In fact, after persons 
 have had some soup or fish and an entree, a pause is rather agreeable than otherwise, unless 
 it is accompanied by a dead silence, which makes everybody uncomfortable. 
 
 Probably the most constant failure at dinner-parties — I use the expression in dis- 
 tinction to everyday dinners — is the jdece de resistance. Cooks will hurry with the joint. 
 How often will it be seen that the joint is placed on the table immediately the fish is re- 
 moved, and there kept till all the entrees have been handed round and eaten and the plates 
 removed ! In addition to this, probably the cook took the joint ofi the spit or out of the 
 oven long before it was even sent to table. Indeed, I have known cooks take down the 
 joint because, they said, they wanted to get at the fire. The consequence is that when the 
 
Ixxiv cassell's new dictionary of cookery. 
 
 cover is removed no steam rises, the meat is warm, but not hot, and (das I alas ! the gravy 
 in the well of the dish is caked over with an icy sheet of fat. In fact, the joint is not worth 
 eating. What should happen is, that after the last entree has been eaten, and a hot plate 
 put round to each person, the joint should arrive. Never mind waiting even two or three 
 minutes ; when the cover is lifted, the rush of steam — for we presume a hot and a really 
 hot cover — ^will more than make amends for the slight delay. A nice hot haunch or leg 
 of mutton with the gravy in it red and that outside steaming is one of the nicest dishes 
 sent to table. On the other hand, lukewarm, flabby mutton and cold gravy are absolutely 
 disagreeable. Nothing spoils a dinner more than the feeling that the roof of the mouth 
 has got, so to speak, encrusted in mutton fat. 
 
 Now, sending a joint up to table as we have said, hot and at the right moment, re- 
 quires management and forethought, and very often the cook does not possess either of 
 these requirements. The mistress of the house, when she finds the cook wanting in 
 these respects, should take the responsibility on herself. 
 
 Indeed, sometimes it is necessary to give positive orders with regard to the joint being 
 taken down. The cook may be fussing downstairs in the firm belief that she will be all 
 behindhand, and that the people above will be kept waiting, However, let her fuss, but obey 
 her orders, and not take the joint o£E the spit till she hears the bell ring. After one or 
 two successful results, the cook will herself see how feasible it is to wait, and she may be 
 rewarded afterwards, perhaps, by hearing from the neighbours' servants that their master 
 
 or mistress has said they hke dining at Mr. 's — the dinner always comes up so nice 
 
 and hot. 
 
 We have before called attention to the fact that in nearly all private houses at dinner- 
 parties the game is invariably over-cooked. What cooks shoidd do, is to endeavour to 
 learn by experience. For instance, let every cook, when she sends up the soup, look at 
 the kitchen clock — suppose the dinner is for ten persons, and that it consists of soup, fish, 
 four entrees, two joints, and game. Let her then again look at the kitchen clock when 
 the game is asked for, and act accordingly another time. It is qiute impossible to lay 
 down any exact rule for the length of a dinner, which indeed varies, some houses being 
 always — I don't know why — quicker than others. Perhaps the difierence is dependent on 
 the host's conversational powers. 
 
 The success of dinner very much depends upon the forethought of those who wait. 
 First, let the cloth be laid a good hour before dinner, and let the waiter remember this 
 one great principle of success — Let everything required be in the room if possible beforehand. 
 No dinner can be successful when the waiter or waitress has first to run downstairs to get 
 some more bread, then to disappear again for the red-currant jelly to hand with the mutton, 
 or the mustard with the beef, and so on throughout the dinner. It is so easy to look ahead. 
 Again, it is shocking bad management to have to open fresh sherry in the middle of the meal. 
 If champagne be served, either have enough or don't give any. I consider one bottle of 
 champagne sent round for eight or ten persons far worse than giving none at all. Have 
 also the wires of the champagne bottles taken off beforehand — it saves time. 
 
 It also saves time to put a good-sized piece of bread to each person at starting. It 
 is ■ quite ridicidous to see what small pieces of bread, or what tiny rolls, are put round 
 at some houses. Some persons' dinners are quite spoilt for the want of bread, and bread 
 is one of those things that even good waiters are very apt to forget to hand of their own 
 accord. It is not pleasant at dinner, unless you are very intimate with the people, to have 
 to ask for things. Let each person remember in how many instances their dinner has been 
 
IXXT 
 
 spoilt by the want of bread, and at any rate resolve that in their own houses they will take 
 precautions not to spoil the dinners of their guests. It is a good plan to tell the waiter 
 to hand round some bread early in the repast, and have it cut up, some large pieces, and 
 some small. Some persons are what may be termed greedy bread-eaters, and by this 
 means you give them a chance to help themselves. It is exceedingly annoying to have a 
 nice piece of partridge or woodcock getting cold on one's plate, and to see it and smell 
 it while waiting for bread. 
 
 It will always, too, be advisable to have the bread so kept that it is what may be called 
 a happy medium between being too new and too dry. New bread should never be eaten 
 with meat, as it is exceedingly indigestible. The meat in sandwiches which is cut from 
 new bread is apt to turn bad very quickly, and it will be found that new bread eaten at 
 dinner has the unpleasant tendency of causing the dinner to disagree. 
 
 One very important point essential to the good order of a dinner is that the cook or 
 head-waiter should calculate beforehand the probable number of plates, knives, and forks 
 that will be required, and to be prepared, so that the supply of either does not fail. We 
 will take the ordinary and simple case of a dinner-party of twelve persons, the dinner con- 
 sisting of soup and fish, four entrees, two joints — say, roast beef and boiled fowl — game, 
 and sweets — ^the latter being pie and pudding — and four side dishes. 
 
 Now there are probably very few establishments that would be capable of going through 
 a dinner of this description without washing up some things during the time it is actually pro- 
 ceeding. First, there will be required twelve soup plates and twelve dessert-spoons. Now, 
 unless the plate chest is of an unusual magnitude, these same dessert-spoons will probably 
 be again required for the sweets, as should these latter be at all of good quality a relay 
 of spoons may very possibly be required for them. But it is the large forks that will be 
 found to require the greatest care. For instance, supposing in the dinner we have mentioned 
 that each person takes fish, two e^itrees, a slice off one of the joints, and some game — 
 a fair average, we believe, of what ordinary healthy people would eat. This means sixty 
 large silver forks, and probably the estabUshment only boasts twenty-four. What is 
 universally done, even at large public dinners, is for the forks to be quickly washed imme- 
 diately they are taken out of the room. For this purpose there should be two good-sized 
 jugs outside the dining-room door, one containing hot soda and water, and the other plain 
 cold water ; also there should be handy a couple of cloths. As the forks are cleared away, 
 let them be first wiped on a dishcloth, then plunged into the hot soda and water, and shaken 
 backwards and forwards for a few seconds, and then plunged into the cold water and again 
 rinsed, and then dried on a clean cloth. A dozen forks can by this means be washed under 
 a minute. 
 
 Now exactly the same principle apphes to the plates as to the forks, only these latter, 
 of course, must be washed up downstairs. In the dinner in question, sixty large plates 
 would be as requisite as the sixty large forks. Should there be therefore two persons 
 waiting at table, another person acting as a messenger between the dining-room and kitchen 
 and the cook downstairs ; if each and every one of these persons understands his and her 
 duty, there should be no delay, no confusion, and above all no talking or whispering on 
 the part of those waiting. The cook downstairs should have ready at the commencement 
 of the meal two large tubs, one full of hot water with plenty of soda in it, the other full of 
 plain hot water. The plates should be treated just like the forks, first scraped or wiped 
 — the former is the best, and there are indiarubber combs sold for the purpose — next plunged 
 into the hot soda and water, and again wiped with a dishcloth ; then rinsed for a few 
 
Ixxvi cassell's new dictionary of cookeky. 
 
 Beconds in the hot water without soda, and then allowed to drain on the ^ack, or they 
 may be quickly wiped. In washing up in the ordinary method, it is customary to wash 
 the plates in hot soda and water first, and then rinse them in cold water. In washing up^ 
 however, during dinner, recollect it is necessary that the plates should be hot. Conse- 
 quently, by rinsing them in hot water to get rid of the soda and water the temperature 
 of the plates is maintained, though, of course, if there is sufficient time it will be advisable 
 to stand the plates on the plate-warmer. 
 
 WASHING UP. 
 
 I would, however, here give a few words of advice to cooks about this very subject 
 of washing up, which is most important. Now you all know how very quickly a dozen 
 plates are washed up, supposing they are wanted immediately for the dinner that is going 
 on. Probably the dozen dirty fish-plates and the two dozen plates used for the entrees 
 are quickly washed. Yet how is it that you will not persevere and wash up all the things 
 as they come downstairs, down to the cheese plates, instead of as a rule only going on washing 
 as long as you know the things are wanted immediately ? Half an hour's more perseverance 
 at the time would probably save you two hours' work later on. Yet it is your custom to give 
 up washing when it becomes certain that they have got enough to finish with upstairs ; and 
 consequelQtly, after dinner is over, the wash-house or back kitchen, as the case may be, pre- 
 sents the appearance of stacks of dirty plates getting cold, the grease hardening and settling 
 on them, while heaps of dirty forks and spoons are lying by the side. The amount of trouble 
 that would be saved by washing all these up at once is something wonderful. Recollect 
 that the time taken to wash up two dozen plates is not double the time taken to wash one 
 dozen. What occupies the time principally is getting the things ready — the hot water, 
 the tubs, etc. 
 
 Another point for the cook to bear in mind is that joints on being removed from the 
 table should never be allowed to get cold or to be put away in the dish in which they were 
 sent to table containing the gravy. Let the joint be placed on a cold clean dish, and let 
 the gravy be poured off through a small strainer, in order to get rid of the fat on it, into a 
 basin, and be put by : this gravy is useful for a variety of purposes, either to act 
 as gravy again, or it can be added to the stock ; or should there be very young children 
 in the family it can be made into a dish of bread and gravy for the early diimcr. 
 
 Another point of warning to cooks in reference to their usual method of pouring away 
 the dirty water in which things have been washed. They empty the large tubs into the 
 sink, causing the sink to be some inches deep in water, which requires time to run 
 down. However, impatience is natural to all of us, and too often, to save time, as they 
 imagine, cooks will pull up the strainer in the sink bodily, upon which the water goes down 
 fast enough, finishing with a grunt of satisfaction. But, alas ! in addition to running a 
 considerable risk of blocking up the pipes, this is the fruitful cause of losses of all descriptions 
 in the shape of forks, spoons, etc., that get overlooked in the sink, and often sucked 
 down with the water. A case once came under my immediate notice in which the pipe 
 leading from the sink to the drain was blocked up, the cause being that no less than five 
 steel knives were found wedged in the pipe near the bend, all of which had accidentally 
 got down, owing to the foolish habit of lifting the strainer. Again, these strainers are used 
 
WASHING UP. Ixxvii 
 
 as traps, in order to prevent unpleasant odours rising into the house. A strainer once lifted 
 is very apt to be forgotten, and the sink is thus often put into open communication with the 
 drain ; the sewer gas rises and spreads over the house, sowing the deadly seeds of fever. 
 
 The same remarks that applied to the washing of plates and spoons and forks apply 
 equally to the washing of glass. Glass should always be washed in plain cold water. Now 
 it is evident that a tumbler, say, that has contained stout, or a wine-glass that has con- 
 tained port wine, will be easily washed when moist, but that if the stout or port be allowed 
 to get dry in the glass some time will have to be expended in cleaning it. Directly 
 glasses are brought downstairs they should be rinsed in cold water and turned upside 
 down to get dry by themselves. Wet glasses take a long time to dry, and when dried 
 generally present a flufiy appearance, that necessitates their being re-wiped. There- 
 forej let the glasses dry themselves, and then let them be poUshed with a good large soft 
 leather ; and, whatever you do, do not use the -glass leather for any other purpose save 
 that of polishing the glass. 
 
 Again, glasses when being dried with a cloth very frequently get broken, especially 
 those that have very thin stems, as the cloth sticks to the glass and in twisting it is apt 
 to crack it. When, therefore, a leather is used, care should be taken that it is perfectly 
 dry, as a damp leather is as liable to break glass as a damp cloth is. 
 
 When dinner is brought to a close, those waiting should bear in mind that their first 
 thought ought to be the table. It will sometimes be found that in clearing away this is 
 overlooked, and that the waiters begin what may be termed clearing the room before they 
 finish clearing the table. The one thought should be, not to keep people waiting one in- 
 stant longer than is absolutely necessary. Consequently, it is more important to put 
 the wine-glasses, wine, etc., on the table than it is to get rid of some of the things from the 
 dinner that may have been left in the room. Where there are two persons waiting it will 
 be found a great saving of time if one carries a large tray in both hands whilst the other 
 removes the things quickly and quietly from the table and places them on it. 
 
 There is one point in connection with dinner that should never be forgotten, and 
 that is the importance of having a menu. When the dishes are not placed on the table 
 a menu is absolutely essential ; and even when the dishes are placed on the table it is always 
 desirable to know — ^first, what the dishes are ; secondly, what is to follow. In 
 many private houses a menu is omitted because the host and hostess think that having 
 one has the appearance of ostentation. This is, however, a very mistaken notion. How 
 often do persons, not knowing it was coming, pass by perhaps their favourite dish simply 
 because they have taken something before ! Again, how often would some small eaters 
 decide on, say, a second piece of mutton or not according to whether game would follow ! 
 
 There is a story told of some great gourmand, who was " taken in " by a friend in the 
 following manner. A leg of mutton was placed on the table, and the gourmand was informed 
 that he saw his dinner before him, and, as was his wont, he accordingly ate freely, while his 
 so-called friend scarcely touched a mouthful. What the gourmand's feelings were when 
 a splendid haunch of venison followed the mutton can better be imagined than 
 described. He is reported, however, to have said, " It was a cruel thing not to have told 
 me." Whether such a piece of exquisitely bad taste was ever perpetrated or not we do 
 not know, but the story serves to illustrate onr point about the menu, as without one, 
 recollect, the guests are treated, though to a lesser extent, 'like the unfortunate gourmand. 
 Little sheets of decorated paper are now sold for the purpose, and form an additional 
 ornament to the dinner-table. 
 
Ixxviii cassell's new dictionary op cookery. 
 
 When all the plates and glasses are cleared off the table, it is customary for all the 
 crumbs likewise to be removed ; for this, however, avoid using those useless things called 
 crumb-brushes, which are the means too often of sending nearly as many crumbs on to 
 the floor as on to the tray — as when the brush is used qiiickly the bristles bend and cause 
 the crumbs to fly over the edge. There is a small silver shovel now used for the purpose, 
 which is far better, and when one of these is not at hand, an ordinary table-napkin will 
 answer very well. 
 
 COFFEE. 
 
 Many people enjoy a good cup of coffee after d'nner, but too often a very flavourless 
 fluid is served up under that name. It is not difficult to make good coffee if a few simple 
 rules are followed. The success of the coffee naturally depends upon the quality of the 
 coffee bean, on the blending of different growths, and on the roasting. Unfortunately the 
 beans are often roasted when too green and not sufficiently dry, and are not subjected 
 long enough to the influence of the fire. Hence the beans are only half roasted, the inner 
 portion being hardly touched, and sometimes the outer grain has not even been deprived 
 of its shuck. Coffee made from such beans has neither aroma nor colour. 
 
 It is important to bear in mind that good results can only be obtained from coffee 
 roasted the came day, and, if possible, just before the moment of using. Never buy ready- 
 ground coffee. When ready-ground, it loses much of its aroma. 
 
 Always use china or porcelain coffee-pots. Tin utensils always give a bad taste 
 to the liquid, and coffee that remains in them for any length of time becomes undrinkable. 
 
 Coffee should never boil. Boiling entirely destroys the delicate volatile aroma of 
 the berry, and makes it bitter to the taste, and injurious to the stomach. Coffee should 
 ^always be infused, not boiled. 
 
 The simplest method of making it is the best, and the following is a good recipe. Put 
 four ounces of coffee, well roasted and freshly ground, into the filter of a china coffee- 
 pot ; put on the cover of the filter and add in small quantities one quart of boiling water, 
 pouring slowly through the filter just sufficient at a time to thoroughly moisten the coffee. 
 The water must be quite boiling each time a small quantity is added. One quart of boiling 
 water will give about one and a half pints of good black coffee. Never shake the pot to 
 make the fluid pass quicker. The hot water poured on it ought to pass slowly and gently 
 through the thickness of ground coffee, and thus bring out its essence and aroma. In 
 doing so it filters itself, like water passing through a bed of sand, and comes out bright 
 and clear ; but if stirred up to hasten filtration it becomes thick and discoloured. One 
 sort of coffee alone will not make a good beverage ; generally two or three kinds are mixed 
 together. The most esteemed and the dearest is old Mocha, small yellow beans, very 
 •shrivelled and unequal in shape, the ugliest looking of all ; then comes the Java, a large 
 beaned coffee, of a dull colour and excellent taste j but as dear as the Mocha ; then follows 
 the Mysore, a middle-sized closed bean; in taste resembling the Mocha ; next again is the 
 Porto Rico, a good coffee for mixing, cheaper than the first named, excellent to mix with 
 the Mysore, to which it imparts a dark colour. The Columbia and Martinique are both 
 excellent with the Java or Mocha. All the South American kinds make good coffee if 
 .mixed with half quantities of Mocha, Java, or Mysore. The addition of chicory 
 
WINE. Ixxix 
 
 should not be allowed when you wish to make good cofiee. It may be used by second 
 and third-rate cofEee-shops for economy's sake to supply so-called coffee at a cheap price, 
 but in good houses any such admixture should always be eschewed ; the connoisseur can 
 never be deceived. In Belgium, Holland, Germany, and the north of France, chicory is 
 much used, because " cofEee " is drunk in large quantities at every hour of the day, and 
 its use is excusable, as the price of the pure article is high ; but in good families, where 
 quality is the first essential, the use of chicory is forbidden. 
 
 In families where a cofEee roaster would be too large for their requirements, the beans 
 may be roasted as follows. Put as much as is wanted into a clean steel or iron frying-pan. 
 Place the pan on a slow coal or gas fire, and shake it continually until the beans attain a 
 •dark-brown colour. Then put them in the cofiee mill, grind, and make into the fragrant 
 beverage at once. In this way alone is it possible to have cofEee in perfection. If not 
 required at once, let the beans cool upon a sheet of clean paper, and put them into an air- 
 tight canister. On no account grind them until just before use. 
 
 Cofiee mills, in wood or metal, may be obtained at any ironmonger's, at prices from 
 two shillings upwards, so that no one has any excuse for not grinding his own cofiee. 
 
 WINE. 
 
 We now come to another subject in reference to dinner, and that is the wine. It is 
 not, however, on the manufacture of wines that I shall treat, but on the selection of wine. 
 It is, of course, of the utmost importance that during dinner the fluid food should be adapted 
 to and kept in harmony with the solid food. 
 
 We will endeavour to examine the general principles to be observed in the service 
 of wine. This is a much debated question, and has long been the subject of controversy 
 amongst epicures. We must disc aim setting ourselves up as an infallible authority in 
 these matters, and can only give the advice which is based upon our own judgment. 
 
 To begin with the hors d'ceuvres, our Russian and German neighbours wash down these 
 appetising dehcacies with " schnaps " of all kinds, such as kummel, krohnwasser, kirsch, 
 etc. This is a barbarous habit, and I am glad it has not been introduced into good society 
 in England. There is no occasion to drink anything whatever with our sardines, caviare, 
 or anchovies, but, if a drink is wanted, a small glass of manzanilla sherry will serve the 
 purpose. 
 
 There is one hors d'ceuvre, however, with which wine is permissible — ^namely, oysters. 
 A glass of light Chablis, or hock, or still Moselle, is an admirable accompaniment to a dozen 
 of natives. The oyster being delicate in flavour, the accompanying wine must be delicate 
 also. A sweet wine or a sparkling wine would be entirely out of place. 
 
 No further wine should be served until the soup has been taken. While the soup 
 plates are. being removed, a small glass of sherry or Madeira may be poured out. If the 
 soup has been real turtle a glass of nulk punch will be appreciated by most people. Let 
 the wine be good, as the palate is keen after hot soup, and any defect is noticeable. 
 
 The wine that goes best with white fish is hock or Chablis, but with heavier fish, such 
 as salmon, Sauterne should be served. 
 
 With your entrees commence to serve claret. Some people will prefer to continue 
 with the white wines, and others may want dry champagne ; but the lover of claret will 
 find plenty of scope for the high-class brands from the entrees on to the sweets. 
 
IXXX CASSELL'S NEW DICTIONARY OP COOKERY. 
 
 Some people are so ill-advised as to give instructions to serve champagne throughout 
 the dinner. This is entirely wrong from a gastronomical point of view, because cham- 
 pagne does not go well with everything. It is positively cruel to one's guests to give them 
 nothing but champagne to drink. Most people must drink something, and after the second 
 or third glass even the best champagne begins to assume a sort of cider taste, which no 
 fine bouquet^can hide. A really fine, dry champagne is a delicious drink, but its proper 
 place is with the roast, and not with every item of the menu. 
 
 Red wines, such as clarets and burgundies, are more invigorating than the white kinds, 
 aad are therefore preferable where only one wine is served to the viands. But whichever 
 is supplied, one should stop serving any more as soon as the sweets are upon the table, or 
 the cheese has been brought up ; then port, old sherry, and Madeira are the only suitable 
 wines. Some years ago fine clarets were served at dessert, but this custom has, happily, 
 died out. A fine claret, iowever superb in quality, tastes tart after pudding and sweets 
 or fruits ; its proper place is earlier in the dinner. With the pudding or ices, rich (not dry) 
 champagne is served and continued until the cofiee appears. A small cognac or other liqueur 
 finishes the meal. 
 
 Great care should be taken to select wines in proper condition for the table. It should 
 be remembered that if one takes a bottle of claret out of the cellar, thus exposing it to 
 change of temperature, one is doing a similar thing to a gardener picking his strawberries 
 or cherries, which, of course, he wishes should be eaten as fresh as possible. In other 
 words, a bottle of claret taken from the cellar should be consumed that very day in order 
 to be served in perfection. 
 
 Many clarets are moved from one cellar to another, as, for instance, from the stores 
 of a wine merchant to the cellar of his customer, and it should be borne in mind that the 
 wine then wants rest before it attains again its former vivacity and perfection. It is 
 analogous to transplanting in gardening ; the plant requires to take root in its new soil 
 before it will grow and develop. Many wines, particularly very old wines, require months 
 of rest before they get over a journey of only a few hours' duration. 
 
 A very stout and early-bottled claret, which is likely to remain a long time in bin, 
 should be sealed and put away with the utmost care where it is not likely to be disturbed. 
 If the temperature of the cellar is not quite even, bin such wine in sawdust. When fine 
 clarets, old in bottle, are received, let the wine stand for twenty-four hours before laying 
 down in bin, in order to be quite sure of a.elean neck. 
 
 Burgundy is a stronger and richer wine than claret, and has the reputation of being 
 the most blood-making wine there is. As a rule. Burgundy is a little dearer than claret, 
 but, like claret, it varies immensely in quality and price. In bottling and keeping Burgundy 
 almost as much care is needed as in the case of port, since it suffers from change of tempera- 
 ture far more than claret. 
 
 On the subject of hock and Moselle little need be said. Good hock is always bottled 
 in the district in which the wine is made. The price varies very considerably, but it may 
 be said at once that cheap hock and cheap Moselle are both apt to be somewhat cjbudy, 
 and it is a universal rule with regard to wine that cloudiness denotes inferior quality. 
 Moselle is a more delicate wine than hock, and has a slight muscatel flavour. It matures 
 quickly, and does not possess the keeping qualities of hock. In selecting both hock and 
 Moselle the three chief points to be borne in mind are — freedom from acidity, brightness, 
 and bouquet. 
 
 Sherry may be divided into two classes — dinner sherry and after-dinner sherry, I 
 
WINE. Ixxxi 
 
 am here speaking of comparatively cheap sherry, as of course good old East India sherry 
 worth 7s. or 8s. a bottle is exceedingly oiice with dinner as well as after, but then in the 
 generality of houses we expect to get sherry that has cost from 24s. to 36s. a dozen. 
 
 When sherry is consumed in any quantity, it will generally be found best to keep it 
 in the wood. A quarter cask contains close upon fourteen dozen of wine, or twenty-eight 
 gallons. I would here disabuse some of your minds of a too-common fallacy. Many 
 persons imagine that because some fine old wine is good, that therefore all old wine is good. 
 Old bottled wine, to be worth anything, must possess a certain quality before it is bottled, 
 or it will not only not improve, but absolutely deteriorate, and ultimately become bad. 
 
 One great advantage of drawing ofi ordinary sherry from the wood is that it is always 
 bright. Sometimes in bottled sherry, especially of a rather superior class, it will be found 
 that the last glass or half-glass is a little thick ; in decanting sherry, therefore, bear in 
 mind to reserve this ittle drop and not make the whole decanter cloudy for its sake. When 
 sherry is known to be like this it will be found best to put a bottle upright two or three days 
 before it is wanted ; then, if decanted carefully, and so that the light can be seen through 
 the bottle, very little indeed need be wasted. 
 
 Never throw away the dregs of any kind of wine, but have what is called a cooking 
 bottle. The dregs of sherry when mixed together will settle down, and do for flavouring 
 gravies, such as salmi sauce or mock-turtle soup. The dregs, too, of port wine do for jugged 
 hare, venison, etc. 
 
 The chief point to be avoided in sherries is spirit. Some of the very cheap sherry 
 contains a great deal of an exceedingly unwholesome spirit, which is very injurious. These 
 fiery sherries are almost the worst form of stimulant in which anyone can indulge. 
 
 We will next proceed to discuss port, which still retains much of its old-time popu- 
 larity in this country. Much that has been said of cheap sherry applies equally to cheap 
 port, the only difEerence being that port is a somewhat dearer wine than sherry. When 
 the consumption of port in a house is large, it will be found advisable to draw the port 
 from the wood — ^that is, if you are sure the cask will be finished within twelve months. 
 When port is kept in the wood too long it is apt to lose colour and deteriorate in 
 flavour. 
 
 Port wine requires great care in keeping, as it is utterly ruined if exposed to great 
 cold. Any that has been exposed to severe frosts gets cloudy, and never properly recovers 
 its character. The best cellars for keeping wines are those that remain at about the same 
 temperature all the year round. A temperature of between 50° and 60° is very good for 
 wine. In fact, a good cellar strikes cold in summer and hot in winter. 
 
 One very common cause of wines being spoiled is bad corks, and I have often wondered 
 at it. The difEerence between good and indifierent corks is so slight, that spoiling wine 
 from corkage reminds one of the old saying of " spoiling the ship for the sake of a ha'porth 
 of tar." 
 
 In choosing corks for bottling wine, the best plan is to take a quantity up in both 
 hands, and smell, them : should there be a peculiar musty smell, the corks are bad, and will 
 utterly spoil a delicate wine. 
 
 Port for ordinary everyday consumption is, as we have said, best from the wood. 
 Sometimes, however, a cask of it is ordered in, and after some has been .drawn ofi the 
 rest is bottled. Now very much depends upon the way in which this is done. In the 
 first place, the wine must be f^rfecUy bright in the cask ; secondly, the bottles must be 
 not only clean, but quite dry inside ; thirdly, the wine must be well sealed up, the corks 
 9 
 
Ixxxii cassell's new dictionary op cookery. 
 
 must fit perfectly tight, and should properly be moistened in a little of the wine that is 
 being bottled, and then hammered down with a wooden mallet. 
 
 It is by some supposed that the crust on port-wine bottles is the sediment of the wine, 
 which has been put into the bottle rather cloudy. The wine is always bottled bright, 
 but after bottling it will turn cloudy of its own accord, especially in spring and autumn; 
 a crust then settles and adheres to the bottle, and the wine gradually matures and 
 improves if it is kept at an equal temperature all the year round. Port wine, however, 
 that has to undergo the variations of temperature that occur in this cUmate will never, 
 mature at all. 
 
 Good port is one of the most wholesome and nourishing wines that can be taken — 
 of course, being strong it must be taken in moderation. 
 
 We next come to what many regard as the highest of all wines — ^i.e. champagne. At 
 what exact price good champagne can be bought it is very difScuIt to say. The cheaper 
 kinds vary immensely, some years being far better than others. I would, however, roughly 
 state the minimum price at which any champagne that is the pure juice of the grape can 
 be bought to be from 48s. to 60s. a dozen. A large quantity of wine is sold in this country 
 under the name of champagne, much of which indeed comes from the champagne district, 
 but really is champagne only in name. 
 
 Whether this is made by using up the refuse of the grapes from which good cham- 
 pagne is made, or by using unripe grapes, rhubarb, gooseberries, or apples, I cannot say, 
 but all wUl agree that the majority of cheap champagne is unfit to drink. 
 
 As a rule, of course, the general principle holds good, that it is far better to give either 
 good wine or none at all. It is true with regard to champagne especially, and I would 
 particularly urge those who are going to give champagne with a little dinner-party about 
 to come off to bear this in mind, and act accordingly. Ask your conscience as to what 
 is your real motive. Do you wish to please your guests ? Or do you wish to show ofE ? 
 — i.e. is your motive in giving champagne simply that of vying with or perhaps surpassing 
 your neighbours 1 If the former is your motive, and you can afiord it, lay in some cham- 
 pagne of a really good Brand. Have it cool — i.e. nearly freezing, a degree or two above 
 freezing-point ; and whatever you do, do not put ice in the wine if. the champagne is really 
 good (and it ought to be at the price I have named) ; it is a barbarous custom. Next, 
 let your guests have enough. I should say a fair allowance is a bottle between two persons. 
 Do not, however, open one bottle, and then ask if anybody will have any more. If you 
 do, everyone will say, " No, thank you." On the other hand, if you open a bottle first 
 and take it round, every single one will have a second glass, and a good many a third. 
 
 Champagne is best kept in a cooler cellar than that which is requisite for ports, clarets, 
 or Burgundies. Great care should also be taken in seeing that the bottles are placed on 
 their sides, as if this wine is kept upright for any length of time it will become flat. 
 Champagne is generally imported in wooden cases, and it is usual to keep the wine in these 
 boxes, which are, as a rule, marked " Keep this side up," as a guide how they should be 
 placed before they are opened. 
 
 We have now run through the general wines drunk in this country — ^viz. sherry, port, 
 claret. Burgundy, hock. Moselle, and champagne. There is another wine, however, once 
 most popular, but which went out of fashion a few years ago — and that is Madeira. The 
 vines in Madeira, which so completely failed some years ago, have very much recovered. 
 Good old East India Madeira, such as is now rarely to be obtained, save at a public dinner 
 of some City company, will bear comparison with almost any wine in the world. 
 
WINE. Ixxxiii 
 
 The new Madeira now imported is, for its price, really a far cheaper wine than sherry, 
 the principal drawback to it being that it is somewhat sweet. The objection of sweetness 
 is fatal to a large class of wines, and as the public taste just now runs upon dry wines, it 
 is a bad time to attempt to introduce any save those that possess this quality. The con- 
 sumption, for instance, of sparkling hock, sparkling Moselle, and sparkling Burgundy is less 
 in proportion than that of former years, owing to the difficulty of obtaining these wines dry. 
 
 One very agreeable form of drinking cheap hock, claret, etc., in summer time is in 
 the shape of " cup." There are various ways of making claret cup, but I.will give one 
 of the simplest. Take a few lumps of sugar, about six or eight, according to the size, 
 and let a few drops of boihng water be poured on them to assist in dissolving them. Take 
 a bottle of claret, and add in addition to the sugar two slices of a hard lemon, a glass of 
 sherry, a table-spoonful of brandy, a small piece of cucumber-peel, and a table-spoonful 
 of noyeau or maraschino. 
 
 A little balm and borage is an improvement to claret cup, but then there is generally 
 considerable difficulty in obtaining them. 
 
 Another capital claret cup is made by substituting an orange cut into slices for the 
 two slices of lemon. Again, if no noyeau is at hand — and noyeau is an expensive liqueur 
 — add a couple of drops of essence of almonds to the brandy. To every cup, of course, 
 must be added one or two bottles of soda-water, and a large lump of pure ice. 
 
 If good pure ice cannot be obtained, but only what is called rough ice, do not put any 
 at all in the cup, but surround it with chopped ice mixed with salt, and you will very soon 
 reduce its temperature quite as low, and, indeed, lower, than if a large piece of ice had 
 been put in the cup itself. I would advise persons who use rough ice indiscriminately to 
 melt a tumblerful, and then hold the glass up to the light. The lesson is very practical. 
 
 Champagne cup is very simply made by adding either a slice or two of lemon or an 
 orange cut into slices to a bottle of champagne as well as a bottle of soda-water, a small 
 liqueur glass of brandy, and a large lump of ice. Of course, just as it would be a terrible 
 waste to use a bottle of Chateau Lafitte or Chateau Margaux claret to make a claret cup, 
 so would it be equally wrong to use a bottle of first-class champagne, such as Pommery et 
 fils, or Montebello Carte Blanche, for a similar purpose. Again, a rather sweet champagne 
 makes a very good " cup," as the ice and soda-water take off from the sweetness very con- 
 siderably. It will be found, however, for general purposes that some wines that are not 
 strictly speaking champagnes nevertheless make excellent " champagne cup." We would 
 call particular attention to a wine named Sparkling Saumur. A bottle ,oi this, and an 
 orange sliced (avoiding the outside slices with too much peel on, as well as the pips), with 
 a bottle or even two bottles of soda-water, and a large lump of ice, make a most refreshing 
 summer drink. 
 
 Lastly, but by no means least in importance of the beverages consumed in this 
 country, are the wines produced in our Australian Colonies. Although for lack of better 
 titles the larger number of the best known brands are styled Burgundies, clarets, ports, etc., 
 they actually possess important characteristics not to be found in the products of other 
 countries. These characteristics are the extraordinary fullness and grapiness possessed 
 by the bigger Australian Burgundies, and the wonderful bouquet and vinous flavour of 
 the higher class lighter vintages. Among the cheaper ruby wines we might mention 
 Sauvigon and Red Harvest Burgundy, which are full-bodied, characteristic Australian 
 wines of the robust type. Tintara is a more expensive wine of the heavy Burgundy type, 
 which is recognised as a valuable recuperative, and on that account has been adopted for 
 
Ixxxiv cassell's new dictionary of cookery 
 
 use in naval and military hospitals. Ophir is a characteristic Victorian Burgundy which 
 is eminently luscious and palatable. 
 
 Amongst the white wines are White Harvest Burgundy and Highercombe — ^the first 
 an inexpensive drink for everyday use, which has of late come much to the fore, and the 
 latter one which might well replace much more expensive varieties of hock. 
 
 One of the most interesting of all Australian wines is Muscat of Alexandria, a dessert 
 wine of the most lovely flavour. Its rich flavour resembles the first crush in the mouth 
 of three or four fine ripe Muscat grapes. A most refreshing summer cup can be made by 
 mixing this with soda-water, sugar, a few slices of lemon, and a lump of ice. 
 
 The finest wines imported from Australia are Coomaree Burgundy and Coomaree Amber; 
 These are literally fit to set before a king. 
 
 We have now run through the principal wines drunk in this country ; we ought not, 
 however, to forget to mention our national beverage — ^beer. 
 
 It is needless to touch upon the point of making home-brewed beer, because, as a 
 matter of fact, good beer can now be obtained so cheap in almost aU parts of the country 
 that ale is very rarely brewed at home. First, I would call attention to the importance 
 of always having beer in cask ; by so doing purity is generally ensured, and the cost is 
 considerably less. 
 
 One of the moso important points to be remembered in the management of beer is 
 to ensure its being bright. Therefore- it should always be kept in a cool place, though in 
 winter care should be taken that it is not exposed to too severe a frost. A cask of beer 
 should always be ordered in at least a week before it is wanted, in order to give the liquid 
 time to settle. Beer is often allowed to get flat and dead through the carelessness of 
 servants, who forget to put in the vent-peg ; consequently a tap requiring no vent-peg is 
 to be preferred. When a cask requires tilting, a very Uttle common sense will often prevent 
 the whole of the beer left in the vessel from becoming cloudy. First, it will be found 
 advisable to have a beer-stand that will tilt by simply turning a handle. However, when 
 bricks or lumps of wood are used for the purpose, bear in mind to first choose your time : 
 say you have drawn enough beer for supper, tilt the cask then, so that you have the benefit 
 of the night's settling. Too often, from carelessness and procrastination, servants will 
 draw ofi the beer till the last drop runs level, and wiU then tilt the barrel while they draw 
 a jugful, afterwards lettiag it drop again, thereby cloudiog the whole of the remainder. 
 
 Brightness is even more important in the case of bottled than draught beer. When 
 kept for any length of time bottled beer should be laid on its side, but to ensure its being 
 bright it only requires to be kept upright for a short time before it is opened, in a moderate 
 temperature. If bottled ale is kept too warm it is very frothy, and by no means invariably 
 bright. On the other hand, beer exposed to frost is sure to be thick. Bottled beer con- 
 sequently ia summer-time should not be placed in an ice-chest, except for ten minutes or 
 a quarter of an hour before it is opened, to cool it, but not freeze it. When, therefore, 
 you have bottled beer in quantities, always stand six or eight bottles upright, and as these 
 are used replace them by others; Good ale will generally get bright in bottle if stood upright 
 for a week, though a longer period should be allowed if it is only just brought in. In pour- 
 ing out beer always have two glasses ready together, so that you can continue to pour 
 without tilting back the bottle, as when this latter is done too often it will be found that 
 the first glass is the only one that is bright. 
 
 With regard to spirits, but little care is required in keeping them, as they are quite un- 
 affected by variations of temperature, the greatest amount of cold failing to influence them. 
 
PAPER-BAG COOKERY. ]xXXV 
 
 PAPER-BAG COOKERY. 
 
 The Britisli housewife, in spite of her well-earned character for conservatism of method, 
 and her rather marked distrust of such domestic instruction as is handed to her direct from 
 a man, has recently been paying a great deal of attention to what is known as paper-bag 
 cookery, trying to make up her mind whether or not this comparatively new system will 
 have any material efiect upon the future furnishings of the scullery ; whether, for instance, 
 the brides of a few years ahead will almost entirely forgo the purchase of saucepans and 
 frying-pans, and content themselves with laying in a stock of paper bags and an enlarged 
 set of wire grids. 
 
 The first thing that tells in favour of paper-bag cookery is the fact that it almost 
 entirely abolishes " washing up " — so far as cooking utensils are concerned. 
 
 The washing of saucepans has, since ever women developed the art of cooking, been 
 considered the greatest grievance of the scullery, the very lowest step in the long flight 
 of domestic duties, a work scarcely ever delighted in, and only carried out thoroughly and 
 efficiently from a sense of duty and a knowledge that these grimy and greasy utensils cost a 
 great deal of money, and must certainly be taken care of and made to last as long as possible. 
 
 The use of the paper bag entirely abolishes saucepan-washing and the cleaning of 
 greasy oven-tins. For this one reason alone the idea should be welcomed with the utmost 
 enthusiasm by bachelor girls, single women, and wives whose midday meal is eaten in 
 soKtude. The paper bags now upon the market are fashioned of special makes of the 
 paper commonly known as grease-proof. The prices of the bags vary from 2s. 9d. per 
 100 for bags &} inches by 4J inches, to 8s. 6d. per 100 for bags 18| inches by llj inches. 
 
 It is an absolute fact that almost any kind of fish, flesh, or fowl cooks to perfection 
 in a paper bag, and, when served, reveals a delicacy of flavour and a dainty attractiveness 
 of appearance quite beyond anything produced by ordinary methods of cooking. A small 
 joint of beef, for instance, boned and rolled in the usual way, slipped into a well-greased 
 paper bag that will hold it conveniently, and fastened securely by two or three wire paper 
 chps, will, if set on a wire grid, and placed in a thoroughly hot oven, cook to perfection 
 in three-fourths of the time usually allowed for the process, will not shrink in the cooking, 
 and will provide its own exceptionally rich brown gravy, the latter being quite ready for 
 table when carefully skimmed, diluted with boiling water, and, if desired, thickened with 
 a little cornflour. 
 
 There is nq need for " peeping into the oven " to see how the joint is progressing, no 
 basting to be done, no fear of the joint being scorched, and there is also the assurance that 
 it will not dry up, even if overcooked. Further than this, it will be decidedly more tender 
 than if baked or roasted, and will disclose a rich and delicious flavour, such as seldom belongs 
 to a joint cooked in an open oven, with a pie or pudding on the shelf above or below it. 
 
 And here we touch upon another point that is very greatly in favour of paper-bag 
 cookery. No matter how many diverse flavours you have enclosed in separate paper 
 bags, and set on different shelves of the same oven, each dish " keeps itself to itself," and 
 does not in the very sightest degree intrude upon its neighbours. 
 
 The least expensive kinds of fish, such as cod, hake, or haddock, should be chosen 
 for the earliest experiments in paper-bag fish cookery. If, for instance, you take three 
 steaks of cod or hake, trim them neatly, lay over them three tomatoes cut in halves and 
 arranged cut sides downwards, squeeze over all a few drops of lemon juice, sprinkle lightly 
 
Ixxx 
 
 CASSELL 8 NEW DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. 
 
 with salt, p/ace m a well-greased bag, and fasten securely at the end with wire clips, you 
 have laid the foundations for a simple little breakfast dish that will, when cooked, deUght 
 you by its delicate flavour and dainty appearance. The process is in every instance the 
 same — a well-greased bag, the ends carefully folded and secured with wire fasteners, the 
 grid to serve as a stand, a thoroughly hot oven, and a complete assurance that the viand 
 will be cooked to perfection in something less than the time generally allowed for ordinary 
 baking. In the case of white fish the surface is delicipusly creamy and white, the fibre 
 much more tender, and the flavour such as will commend the dish to the epicure. 
 
 Ragouts and stews are particularly successful when prepared by this new process. 
 It has long been a settled doctrine with expert cooks that the success of a ragout or stew 
 depends entirely upon a thorough amalgamation of the various flavours. This desired 
 blending of flavours cannot be brought about in any ordinary vessel with quite so com- 
 plete a result as within the paper bag, where the difEerent essences or juices are closely 
 conserved and gently persuaded to combine the one with the other, until no special flavour 
 predominates. When, added to this, one has the comfortable assurance that the meat, 
 poultry, or game of the ragout will be deUciously tender, the final success of the dish is 
 a foregone conclusion. 
 
 Light breakfast dishes, such as Pindon haddock, kidneys, rashers of bacon, sausages, 
 cutlets, or the more homely fresh herring, kipper, or bloater, are especially appetising when 
 cooked in the paper bag. 
 
 Whatever else may be said about paper-bag cookery, there is no doubt that one of the 
 real important points in its favour is that it displaces the old-fashioned and tedious pro- 
 cesses, such as basting, turning, stirring, and close watching. Further, by relieving the 
 cook of all fears as to whether the dinner is being spoiled, and by its bewitching power of 
 making tender that which would otherwise be tough, this new system will daily gain in 
 favour. When, added to all this, one notes that paper-bag cookery effects a distinct saving 
 in coal or gas, and an even more marked saving in bulk of food — ^the wastage that accom- 
 panies ordinary cooking being practically reduced to a minimum — ^then it is not by any 
 means rash to predict that the paper bag will henceforth be known as one of the most 
 valued allies of the economical and thrifty housewife. 
 
 The first question that the present writer asked was, Will the things brown ? An 
 experiment gave a delightful assurance that they certainly will acquire that most delightful 
 tint which means so much to the lover of a really well-cooked and toothsome-looking dish. 
 
 Below are a few hints gathered partly from the advice of friends who are trying the 
 new cookery, and partly from personal experience. 
 
 Taking first of all an ordinary stew, let me make it quite clear that meat, vegetables 
 and seasonings are prepared and blended in the usual proportions. The ingredients are 
 all placed in the bag, and water is added with great discretion. It must be remembered 
 that there is little subsequent shrinkage of the solid food, and no evaporation of the water, 
 and it is because of this latter fact that considerably less water is necessary than would 
 be required if the stew were being cooked in the ordinary way. Care must be taken to 
 use a bag amply large enough to hold all the ingredients. The edges of the bag should be 
 folded twice, and carefully secured with wire clips. If the right sort of bag is used, no 
 fear need be entertained that the paper will give way when the liquid contents reach boiling- 
 point. The stew should bp placed in a hot oven, the gas or other heat being lowered at 
 the same time as the bag is put in. The time required for actual cooking is less than that 
 ordinarily allowed but, unless the meat is very young and tender, and liable to be " done 
 
THE FEEDING OF INVALIDS. Ixxxvii 
 
 to rags," the flavour and appearance of the stew or ragout will be greatly enhanced by 
 long cooking. 
 
 Before placing a bird in the paper bag, spread the breast lightly with either butter 
 or dripping. Fowls or ducks may be stuffed in the usual manner, and will prove particu- 
 larly delicious, the full flavour of the forcemeat being conserved. A fowl weighing 1 lb. 
 12 oz. will cook to perfection in 55 minutes, and will lose only IJ oz. in weight during the 
 process. A bird of the same weight, roasted in the ordinary way, takes 1;^ hour to cook 
 and the average loss of weight is 4 J oz. 
 
 Tartlets are very delicious made turnover fashion, a teaspoonful of jam being enclosed 
 in a small round of pastry. Short paste should be brushed over with milk and dusted with 
 castor sugar before being placed in the bag. Puff paste will be found very delicious in 
 flavour when baked in a paper bag. 
 
 Ten minutes will be sufficient time to allow for baking, and such delicate pastry as 
 this would be better laid on a baking-sheet before being put into the paper bag. 
 
 Every variety of fruit that requires more than ten minutes' cooking should be lightly 
 stewed before being placed beneath pastry that is to be cooked in this new way. Goose- 
 berries, cherries, apricots, apples, plums, and damsons fall under this rule, but raspberries 
 and strawberries may be excepted. 
 
 Rice, sago, and tapioca puddings acquire a much more deUcious flavour when cooked 
 very slowly for a long time than when served directly the grain is tender. The pudding 
 should be made in the usual way and poured into a dish, the dish being afterwards enclosed 
 in the paper bag. Two hours is not too long to allow for a milk pudding. The heat 
 of the oven should be very moderate. 
 
 The best way to remove the bag from cooked dishes is to cut it open with a pair 
 of scissors, provided especially for the purpose, and kept for the one use. Care must, of 
 course, be taken not to spill the gravy during the process. 
 
 THE FEEDING OF INVALIDS. 
 
 It is a truism to say that the proper feeding of the invalid is one of the most important 
 means of restoring him to health. 
 
 There are one or two preliminary points to be noticed in regard to the diet of the sick- 
 room. First of all, scrupulous cleanliness must be preserved ; secondly, no cooking must 
 be done in the room itself, and no food or utensils must be left there after the patient hap 
 finished ; thirdly, nothing must be given but what the doctor orders ; and fourthly, the 
 meals must be served at regular intervals. It should be remembered that, in the case of 
 invalids, the smallest details are as important as general principles. The best nurse is 
 she who not only knows these details, but takes a pleasure in carrying them out. 
 
 It is important, as far as possible, to humour the patient's likes and dislikes. It is 
 thus useful to have at one's command more ways than one of preparing a dish. If beef 
 tea, for instance, is repugnant in one form, it may be acceptable in another. If the invalid 
 who is ordered a milk diet cannot take milk pure and simple, he may be induced to take 
 it under some tempting disguise. A patient should never be forced to take anything he 
 does not hke. 
 
 Beef tea may be considered the staple article of invalid dietary. There are many 
 methods of making it, but the following is the best for the sick-room. Take a paund of 
 
Ixxxviii cassell's new dictionary or cookery. 
 
 the best rump steak, free it from fat, chop or cut it into very small pieces, place these in an 
 earthenware jar to which there is a lid, pour half a pint of cold water over them. Put the 
 Ud on the jar, and let it stand for three hours. By this time all the parts of the meat that 
 are soluble in cold water will be extracted. Pour off the fluid into a jug, cover it, and place 
 it on one side. Then pour another half-pint of water over the cubes of meat, and heat 
 it up to 160° Fahr., and keep it at that temperature for three more hours. Then pour off 
 this fluid into the jug in which the cold extract is, and you have all the nourishing material 
 that can be drawn from the meat by warm water. Next, pour another half-pint of water 
 over the meat, bring it gradually to boihng point, and keep it simmering at that point 
 for three hours, then add it to the previous solutions. You have now all that can 
 be extracted from the meat by cold, warm, and boiUng water. Heat it up as required, 
 unless it is ordered to be taken cold. 
 
 That is the most perfect way of preparing beef tea, but, as will be noticed, it takes 
 nine hours to accomplish. Often it is necessary to make it in a much shorter time. Here 
 is a recipe which will give a good beef tea in about half an hour. Take half a pound of 
 rump steak, free it from fat, chop it up or scrape it into very fine pieces, and place them in 
 a jar. Pour half a pint of cold water over them, and let them stand five minutes, stirring 
 meanwhile, and adding a httle salt. Tie a paper cover over the top, place the jar in a 
 saucepan of warm water, put it over a very slow fire, bring it gently to boiling point, and 
 keep it simmering for half an hour. Strain it, and use immediately. 
 
 From beef tea to broths is but a step. Those chiefly used are made from mutton, 
 veal, or chicken, the last being generally preferred. One of the best ways of making 
 chicken broth is to put the half of a young tender fowl into a saucepan, with salt and pepper 
 to taste. Pour over it a pint of cold water, and simmer gently for an hour and a half, 
 skim carefully while simmering, strain it, and put it away into a cool place until wanted. 
 Heat up the quantity required, and before serving remove all fat. 
 
 For mutton broth the scrag end of the mutton is generally used, while for veal the 
 knuckle is the best part to employ. To make about a quart of broth put into a sauce- 
 pan one pound of meat with three pints of water. Add pepper and salt, a turnip, 
 an onion, a bunch of herbs, and some barley, and bring the whole gently to boiling point, 
 skimming carefully all the time. Then put the hd upon the saucepan, and allow the con- 
 tents to simmer for an hour. Strain, and put aside to cool. When required to be served, 
 heat a sufficient quantity and remove all fat. When allowed by the doctor, a quarter 
 of a pound of mashed potatoes may be added to each pint of brOth. 
 
 Calf's-foot broth is a very nutritious article of diet for an invaUd. A foot should be 
 well cleaned, and allowed to stew very gently in a pan with three pints of water and a slice 
 of lemon, until the bulk of the mixture is reduced to one-half. The liquor is then skimmed 
 and put aside in a jug until it cools. About a pint of the liquor is next warmed up gently 
 and gradually, with a lump of sugar, a small piece of butter, and a little grated nutmeg. 
 Tdke it off the fire, add to it the yolk of an egg well beaten up, place the pan back on the 
 fitre, and warm until the whole begins to thicken. Be careful that the heat does not get 
 to boihng poinj} after the egg has been added. 
 
 A very nutritious broth may be made from eels in the following manner. Skin and clean 
 an eel, about half a pound in weight ; cut it into small pieces and place them in a pan with 
 three pints of water, a small onion, some chopped parsley, and seasoning. Warm it gently 
 until the bulk is reduced one half, carefully skimming all the time. Strain through a 
 hair sieve, and cool. Warm up when wanted, and serve with pieces of toast. 
 
THE FEEDING OF INVALIDS. Ixxxix 
 
 Milk is an indispensable sick-room food, but it sometimes disagrees witb delicate 
 stomachs, causing nausea and vomiting, owing to the formation of curd. This may some- 
 times be overcome by getting the patient to drink it slowly and in small quantities. In 
 other cases it may be necessary to dilute the milk with soda water, lime water, or barley 
 water, in order to ensure its digestion. 
 
 When milk in any form is refused by the patient, recourse may be had to one of those 
 malted foods, of which Mellin's may be taken as a type. Arrowroot, too, is a most useful 
 food, which can be prepared simply with boiling water, although it is much more nutritious 
 with milk. The secret of making arrowroot is to see that it is rendered completely smooth 
 and free from lumps by first mixing the required quantity thoroughly with a little cold 
 water. The boiling milk or water is then to be poured over it very slowly, and the whole 
 is to be constantly stirred during the process. 
 
 A good gruel should be made from the finest oatmeal procurable, in preference to 
 groats. Mix two table-spoonfuls of the meal with a little cold water, till a perfectly smooth 
 mass is the result. Then pour over it half a pint of cold water, and boil gently. To ensure 
 perfection, about three-quarters of an hour should be allowed to the process. It should 
 then be strained, and sugar or salt added according to taste. Oatmeal may also be use- 
 fully combined with beef tea to furnish a most nutritious diet. 
 
 Bread and milk forms another pleasant change in the routine of milk diet. Some 
 stale bread should be cut into dice-shaped pieces of uniform si^e. Scald out a basin with 
 boiling water, and place the pieces in it. Boil the milk, and the moment it boils add 
 it to the bread. A saucer or plate should be placed as a cover over the basin for about 
 ten minutes. 
 
 Eggs, as a highly concentrated form of nutriment, may be considered an adjunct 
 to milk diet. They may be taken raw, or beaten up with milk, tea, or cofiee, or added 
 to some of the broths already described. The best of all ways of cooking eggs for an 
 invalid, when he is able to take them, is in the form of an omelette. 
 
 Cooling drinks form an important item in invalid dietary. In many cases a sick 
 person sufEers more from thirst than from the pains of his disease, and it is therefore necessary 
 to have a relay of refreshing drinks at hand. 
 
 It is a popular idea— for which it is difiicult to account — that cold water is harmful 
 to invalids. This is an entirely erroneous behef, and is often the cause of imnecessary 
 suffering. The patient may, in the great majority of cases, be allowed to drink water 
 freely. The water should, of course, be filtered, and freshly drawn from the filter, and 
 it should be slowly sipped, or drunk out of an invalid feeding-cup. 
 
 Next to water comes ice, which should be the best and purest obtainable. To keep 
 it properly, wrap the block of ice in flannel, and place it on a piece of wood in a basin. 
 When wanted for use, remove the flannel, and chip off some small pieces. Tie a piece 
 of muslin round the top of a tumbler, so that it may form a pouch, and put the chips of 
 ice in it. Leave the tumbler within easy reach of the patient, so that he may help himself 
 as often as he feels inclined. The water that drips from the muslin bag may also be drunk. 
 
 Effervescing or aerated waters will often be taken by an invalid in preference to plain 
 water, as being more refreshing. These should always be from a manufacturer of high 
 repute, such as Schweppe — the cheap are never to be depended upon. When a syphon 
 is used, a little of the first water that comes should be thrown away, in case any impurities 
 may lurk in the spout. 
 
 A very refreshing cooling drink may be made by dissolving half a teaspoonful of cream 
 
XC CASSELLS NEW DICTIONABT OP COOKERY. 
 
 of tartar in a pint of boiling water, and adding sugar and lemon peel according to taste; 
 When quite cold it is fit for use, either alone or with aerated waters or ice. Another excellent 
 drink is made as follows. Take the juice of six lemons and the thinly-pared rind of two. 
 Add three pounds of loaf sugar, and pour over the whole two quarts of boiling water. After 
 standing an hour or more, strain it, and let it get thoroughly cold before using. 
 
 Barley water is often prescribed for invalids. Take an ounce of the best pearl barley, 
 and wash it well in several waters. Pour a pint and a half of water over the barley, add 
 the rind of half a lemon thinly pared, and a little sugar. Let it simmer gently over the fire, 
 stirring constantly, until reduced to one pint, then strain it ofi. 
 
 Toast and water is another drink that is frequently ordered by medical men. This 
 is prepared by toasting a sUce of stale bread until it is browned all over without being 
 burnt. Pour a quart of boiling water over it, and let it stand till cold ; then strain it off 
 into a jug. The flavour of this somewhat insipid drink may be vastly improved by the 
 addition of a roast apple and a httle lemon rind and sugar. 
 
 Such are the leading principles of invalid dietary, and by bearing them in mind the 
 nurse will be able to vary the preparations of many different dishes so as always to have 
 something tempting and appetising to put before her charge. The recipes of many dishes 
 suitable for invalids will be found in the body of this work under the heading of " Sick, 
 Cooking foe the," and the names of others are given in the Classified Index. 
 
 TABLE SERVICE AND DECORATION. 
 
 A good picture deserves a good frame, and the success of a dinner depends largely 
 upon the way in which it is put upon the table. Snowy tablecloths, sparkling crystal^ 
 and glittering silver are necessary accompaniments, and in the arrangement of flowers 
 and ferns the artistic taste of the hostess is shown. It goes without saying that a hand- 
 some centre-piece should adorn the table, and candelabra should be placed at proper 
 distances. 
 
 The flowers should always be diminutive in height, so that every guest may have an 
 uninterrupted view of his vis-&-vis, and they may be placed in glasses, baskets, iron stands, 
 or porcelain vases. The flowers may be of whatever kinds are in season, but care should 
 be taken to select those of quiet colours. It is a good thing to have a scheme of colour 
 with one prevailing tint throughout in all the decorations. Feathery asparagus and smilax 
 form a fitting contrast and background. Smilax especially is a most useful plant for this 
 purpose, as it can be laid along the cloth, twined around the lamps, intermixed with the 
 flowers, and be, in fact, ubiquitous. Autumn foliage may be introduced when the leaves 
 are fading, and their rich golden-brown hues contrast well with the snowy damask. 
 
 Even in winter time it is possible to make a goodly show. Chrysanthemums afford 
 endless varieties of colour, and the hardy outdoor bushes produce small flowers which, 
 although despised by gardeners, are very effective for table decoration, and last a long 
 time in water. If the beautiful large blossoms from the greenhouse are used, be careful 
 not to overload the table ; a very few specimens will go a long way, and be far more effec- 
 tive than masses of flowers. The very dark-red chrysanthemums show up well against a 
 white and gold table-centre, and all sorts of charming Oriental stuffs are now to be had 
 so easily that no one need sigh for a pretty table-centre as for an unattainable luxury ; 
 but it is not a necessity in making an artistic table, though undoubtedly a great help, and 
 an economiser in perishable materials. These same dark-red flowers can be as success- 
 
TABLE SERVICE AND DECORATION. Xci 
 
 fully treated without one, arranged in white china or plain glass, and a touch of yellow 
 in the foliage, if possible ; pyrethrum is usually available for this purpose. 
 
 The deep-yellow chrysanthemums are very telling against a pale-blue, or blue and 
 white centre ; while the pale blossoms, which are neither exactly pink nor heliotrope, 
 are very effective with a good deal of foliage against the plain white cloth, a httle dark 
 evergreen, and plenty of something lighter and more graceful ; or a dark-red centre, deep 
 magenta or puce, with some silvery lace on it, would throw up the flowers well. Then 
 the wonderful range of tawny reds and yellows, glorious flame-coloured beauties, are quite 
 bewildering in the possibilities they afEord. With almost any table-centre or without 
 one, with any foliage so long as it is not too heavy, they will be efiective, and even striking. 
 Wliite chrysanthemums are best by themselves or with yellow, and with white at any 
 rate one is safe from vulgarity, so this is good material to provide if entrusting the table to 
 someone of whose taste one is ignorant. 
 
 As to foliage, if this has to be bought, a handful of asparagus fern, although it is 
 expensive, may be regarded as a good investment ; it lasts for an almost unlimited period 
 in water. But where there is a garden, however small, there is sure to be something green 
 to be found almost all the year round. 
 
 A good plan for a busy person who cannot attend to decorations every day is to have 
 some little "ferns in pots ; these remain nice for some time, and may be in white china pots, 
 used with various coloured table-centres, or merely in common pots with full covers of 
 silk. Cr^pe tissue paper in any pretty and artistic colour looks well, and affords an infinite 
 variety of contrast and harmonies. 
 
 A good waiter is a treasure. He is deft of hand, soft of speech, and knows every item 
 of the menu as if he himself had compiled it. Waiters, like poets, are born, not made ; 
 but there are a few elementary rules which are essential to success. Mr. C. H. Senn, in 
 his work on " Practical Gastronomy," has thus epitomised them : — 
 
 1. See that every plate, knife, fork, spoon, glass, cup, saucer, and dish placed before 
 guests is properly clean. 
 
 2. Make a practice to wipe the bottom of every dish before placing it on the table, 
 and, when found necessary, the edges of dishes should be wiped with a towel or napkin 
 before presenting same at table. 
 
 3. Plates and dishes must be cleared with as little noise as possible. Dirty plates, 
 glasses, etc., should never be allowed to accumulate in a dining-room. 
 
 4. Never place a spoon in a guest's soup-plate, coffee or tea cup, or, indeed, into any 
 liquid food, because it is the custom that the guest and not the waiter should have that 
 privilege. 
 
 5. When serving tea, coffee, milk, or any other kind of drink, special care must be 
 taken not to spill the contents, so that the under plate or saucer is clean and dry when 
 placed on the table. 
 
 6. In filling glasses with water or wine, do not fill them right up, and when putting in 
 ice for coohng, use a spoon and not the fingers. 
 
 7. Waiters, when speaking to guests or when handing anything to them, should avoid 
 having their face in too close contact with that of the guest, this being considered verj 
 objectionable. 
 
 8. The removal of plates must be effected from the right, and must be done as noise- 
 lessly as possible. Special stress must be laid upon this ; the rule should be strictly 
 observed throughout the meal when the changing of plates takes place. 
 
xcu cassell's new dictionary of cookery. 
 
 9. The waiter handing the soup should take care to place it in front of the guest from 
 a position on the right, though it must be remembered that all the other dishes are pre- 
 sented to the guests from the left. 
 
 We now come to a subject which in its strict order should have preceded cookery, 
 and upon which the success of the cook's labours very largely depends. We refer to the 
 important subject of 
 
 MARKETING. 
 
 Too Uttle attention is paid in this country to the art of marketing. There is not one 
 English lady in twenty who can tell the names of the various joints of beef and mutton 
 that are exposed for sale in butchers' shops, and not one in fifty who can go out and do 
 her own marketing with discrimination and economy. Ladies who will spend hours in 
 shopping when lace and furs and ribbons are concerned, think it entirely beneath them 
 to visit the fishmonger's or the butcher's in order to select a fresh fish or a prime joint 
 for dinner. Consequently, the tradesmen send in pretty well just what they please, the 
 weights are rarely checked, and the prices are a penny or twopence a pound more than 
 the same articles could be purchased for in the various shops. There is no country in the 
 world that has such a plentiful supply of good material for food as our own. There is no 
 beef hke that of Aberdeenshire, no mutton hke the Southdown, no fruit so luscious as 
 that from English orchards, no vegetables so succulent as those of our market gardens, 
 and no fish with the flavour of those of our seas ; but it requires practice and experience 
 to select the best of these good things, and to purchase with judgment and discretion. To 
 be able to discriminate between good food and bad, and between prime meat and inferior, 
 is a duty which every chatelaine owes to herself, to her cook, and to her household ; to 
 herself, in order that she may not be taken advantage of by dishonest tradesmen ; to her 
 cook, that full justice may be done to her culinary skill ; and to her household, that their 
 bodies may be nourished and their palates gratified with well-flavoured, succulent food. 
 We will proceed; therefore, to give a few practical directions regarding the choosing of 
 the various articles of food in general use. 
 
 Fish.— As an article of food fish deserves to be held in high esteem. Owing to the 
 quantity of phosphorus and nitrogen contained in it, it forms a valuable diet for brain- 
 workers, while its digestibility renders it specially suitable for invalids and persons of 
 sedentary habits. Fish may be divided broadly into three classes — white, oily, and shell 
 fish. The first class includes whiting, soles, turbot, brill, plaice, flounders, haddock, and 
 cod in the order of digestibility. In the oily class of fish are salmon, mackerel, eels, and 
 herring ; these are highly nutritious when they can be digested easily, but with many 
 people they disagree. Mackerel decompose very rapidly, and should never be eaten unless 
 they are absolutely fresh. There are two classes of shell-fish, known as the crustacean 
 and the mollusc. Familiar examples of the former are the crab, lobster, shrimp, prawn, 
 and crayfish, while the latter is represented by the oyster, mussel, cockle, and scallop. 
 
 In choosing fish the purchaser should be guided by the following rules : — ^Bright eyes, 
 red gills, flesh firm to the touch, and scales not easily rubbed off, are a sure sign of fresh- 
 ness. A short, plump fish, thick about the shoulders, is much to be preferred to a long, 
 thin one. 
 
MARKETING. XCm 
 
 The sole is, perhaps, the most generally esteemed fish, and it has the advantage of 
 being obtainable all the year round. Soles vary considerably both in size and price, but 
 are never what might be called a cheap fish, being seldom obtainable under a shilling a 
 pound. Do not buy a sole in roe, as the flavour is insipid, and always select a large-sized 
 fish in preference to two or more smaller ones. The best cod-fish are those that are plump 
 and round at the tail, the sides having a slightly ribbed appearance, with yellow spots 
 on a clear skin. Cod is at its best about Christmas time. From the middle of January 
 to March it is not so good nor so abundant ; in May, again, it is generally very fine. The 
 flesh of the salmon is rich and delicious in flavour. When perfectly fresh there will be 
 found between the flakes a creamy white curd, which is much valued by epicures. The 
 highly-esteemed smelt, when fresh, has an odour hke a newly-cut cucumber, which passes 
 away in about twelve hours after it has been caught. Turbot should be moist, the skin 
 not blistered, and the colour of the light side very pale cream. Plaice is in good condition 
 when the body is thick and firm, the eyes bright, and the pale side tinged with pink. 
 
 When choosing unboiled lobsters, press them between the eyes ; if they are alive 
 they will move their claws. To test boiled lobsters, take the tail between the finger and 
 thumb, and draw it out from the body. If it springs back the fish is fresh ; if devoid of 
 elasticity it is stale: Lobsters and crabs should be chosen by weight, those of medium 
 size having the best flavour. " Native " oysters have small, smooth shells, and are the 
 best for eating raw, but large rough-shelled oysters, which can be purchased for a shilling 
 a dozen, are quite good enough for sauces, stews, and steak puddings. 
 
 Beef is best during the winter months, and it can then be hung for several days to 
 ensure its being tender. The meat should be red, of a good colour, neither too bright nor 
 too pale, and the fat should be slightly tinged with yellow. Ox beef is considered the 
 choicest. Heifer beef has a closer grain, paler colour, and whiter fat than ox beef. Bull 
 beef is dark-coloured, lean, coarse-grained, and strong smelling. Beef in prime condition 
 should have little streaks of fat running through the lean, and the flesh should rise quickly 
 when pressed with the finger. When a line of homy substance lies between the fat and 
 the lean, or when a thick layer of gristle is under the fat, it shows that the animal was 
 aged. 
 
 Veal. — Veal is considered to be specially in season from May to September, although 
 it may be obtained all the year round. The marks of good veal are : Pale pink flesh of 
 good colour, firm fat of a pinkish white, and a small kidney. The flesh of the bull-calf 
 is usually preferred for joints on account of its being firmer in grain and fuller in flavour, 
 but for many dishes that of the cow-calf is chosen because of its superior whiteness. Veal 
 is at its best when the animal is about three months old. It should be used soon after 
 being killed, as the flesh rapidly decomposes. 
 
 Mutton. — Mutton stands next in order to beef for its nutritious qualities, and as 
 regards digestibility it is superior to any other kind of butcher meat. A sheep should not 
 be killed for food until it is three years old, nor when it is more than six. Younger mutton 
 is flabby and flavourless, and older is strong and stringy. The flesh of a five-year-old is 
 preferred by an epicure. At that age it should be firm, succulent, and juicy. Good mutton 
 is finely grained, the lean of a darker colour than beef, and the fat white rather than yellow, 
 the latter colour indicating poor quality. On an old animal the skin when pinched remains 
 wrinkled. The flavour and colour of the flesh are affected to a considerable degree by 
 the herbage and other food of the sheep. Scotch and Welsh mountain mutton are darker 
 than Lowland mutton, and have a slight gamy flavour. Southdown mutton is much 
 
xciv cassell's new dictionary of cookery. 
 
 prized on account of the delicacy of its flavour. Wether mutton is the best, and 
 should be chosen for roasting. Ewe mutton, which is cheaper, is quite good enough for 
 boiling or stewing. Mutton should be well hung before being cooked, the length of time 
 depending upon the state of the weather and the quality of the meat. The leg will keep 
 for a much longer time than the loin or the shoulder. A leg should always be hung with 
 the cut side up, in order to retain the juices. 
 
 Lamb. — The flesh of lamb should be firm and of a light colour ; the fat should also 
 be firm and light. Avoid lamb which has yellow fat and flabby red flesh. Lamb born 
 in the winter time, brought up under shelter, and fed principally upon milk, is considered 
 the best, but is rather an expensive luxury. Grass lamb — that is, lamb fed upon pasturage 
 — comes into season in April. The quality of lamb can be easily tested by the appearance 
 of the veins of the neck, which should be of a ruddy or bluish colour ; if green, it is not good. 
 
 Pork. — The pig is peculiarly liable to disease, and if its flesh is in a diseased condition 
 when eaten evil results are sure to follow. For this reason pork should be chosen with 
 the greatest care, and only during the winter months. The fat should be white and firm, 
 the lean finely grained, and the rind thin and smooth. Pork from which the rind has been 
 already pared should not be bought, as this indicates that it has been taken from a heavy, 
 coarsely-fed animal. Discolorations in the fat prove an unhealthy condition at the time 
 of killing. Pork that has been dairy-fed is the best. In order to avoid inferior qualities 
 it should always be purchased from a dealer of standing and reputation. 
 
 Venison. — There are three kinds of deer indigenous to this country — red deer, roe- 
 buck, and fallow deer. The last-named is the commonest. Buck venison, considered 
 the finest, is in season from June to the end of September, and doe venison from October 
 to December. Venison should be hung from fourteen to twenty-one days in a dry larder, 
 and well wiped with a dry cloth each day. Powdered ginger and pepper should be dusted 
 over it to keep ofi flies. In order to ascertain its condition, run a skewer close to the bone, 
 and judge from the smeU whether it is sweet or not. If musty, it should be washed first 
 in lukewarm water, and afterwards in tepid milk and water, and then dried very thoroughly. 
 The lean should be fine-grained and dark ; the fat plentiful, firm, white, and clear. The 
 age may be told by the cleft of the hoof ; if smooth and small, the animal is young ; if 
 rough and large, it is old. 
 
 Poultry and Game. — The weight of fowls and chickens should be great in proportion 
 to their size, but an over-fat bird is not economical. A young fowl can be recognised by. 
 its feet. The claws should bend backwards without cracking, and there shoidd be no 
 spur upon the legs ; the spur does not begin to grow until the bird is a year old. The 
 skin should be soft and silky, and the breast ftill and plump. Ducks should have a full 
 breast, supple feet, and a clear skin. Geese should be eaten when young. Thei breast 
 should be plump, the skin white, and the feet yellow and pliable. Red feet and bill denote 
 an old bird. A good test is to squeeze the windpipe close to the body. If it yield easily 
 to the pressure, the goose is tender ; if it resist, it is tough. When purchasing a turkey 
 choose one of moderate size. In young birds the skin is soft and even ; in old ones it is 
 coarse and wrinkled. The legs should be smooth ; a long spur with rough, pale legs denotes 
 age. Hen turkeys are considered the best, especially for boiling. Pheasants and par- 
 tridges should be hung for some days before cooking, the time depending upon individual 
 taste, as what is offensive to some is pleasing to others. An old bird may be known by 
 the length of its spurs, which in young birds are short and blunt. A young grouse may 
 be known by the tenderness of its beak, which will break if the bird is held up by it. Snipe, 
 
COOKERY AS A BRANCH OF EDUCATION. 
 
 ■when old, have thick, hard feet ; when' the feet are solr and tender, the birds are young. 
 Woodcock should be fat, and should never be drawn, as the trail is considered a delicacy. 
 A young hare has smooth, sharp claws, and the cleft in the lip is not much spread. A 
 hare should hang for at least a week — longer if the weather permits. 
 
 COOKERY AS A BRANCH OF EDUCATION. 
 
 Before bringing these pages to a close, there is one subject remaining that demands 
 our greatest attention, and that is : — How far it is possible to impart even an elementary- 
 knowledge of the principles of cookery to the poor and uneducated classes ? There is 
 probably no country in the world that has any pretensions to civilisation in which there 
 is so profound an ignorance of even the rudiments of cookery as in our own. Indeed, the 
 difEerence in the mode of hfe between a French family and an English one, in which, say, 
 the goodwife in the former is allowed thirty francs and the latter thirty shillings a-week 
 for housekeeping purposes, is something astounding. In the former there is comfort and 
 even luxury, and, in addition, money is regularly saved ; whereas, in the latter, the week 
 which commences with a hot dinner on Sunday usually terminates in the plainest kind 
 of food, such as bread and dripping, and that too often obtained on credit. 
 
 Again, amongst the English poor it wiU be observed that there is scarcely any variety 
 of food whatever. The hot dinner on Sunday is almost invariably the same. A blade- 
 bone of beef and a heap of baked potatoes cooked at that real poor man's friend, the baker's 
 oven — the usual charge for baking being twopence on Sundays and three-halfpence on 
 week days. Week after week the fare is the same — ^baked meat and baked potatoes — the 
 one change coming with Christmas, and, Kke it, but once a year, when " the goose " takes 
 the place of the meat, the huge heap of sage and onions being placed in a saucer under- 
 neath the goose to catch the fat. 
 
 Again, in sending rice pudding to the baker's, his man is frequently obliged 
 to take out some of it, as otherwise the pudding would be so close as to be barely 
 eatable, the rice having no room to swell. Sometimes a batter pudding is sent with the 
 ■dish so full of batter that it would be certain to overflow when baked unless some were 
 removed. 
 
 Perhaps the greatest difficulty to be contended with is the rooted and unreasonable 
 prejudice to be met with in some of the poor. They despise soup and fish, unless the latter 
 be a bloater with their tea. Great changes have taken place lately in regard to education, 
 which is now compulsory, and the young girl who a few years back was the mother's chief 
 help in household duties is now, at any rate for a certain number of days, compelled to 
 attend a school. In all these schools cooking should form a part of the regular routine 
 of school duty. It should be borne in mind that it is quite as important for the future 
 wives of the poorer classes to be able to cook their husbands' and children's food as to 
 make or mend their clothes. What a wonderful efiect it would have on the future generatiop 
 were each child — i.e. each girl — ^properly instructed by some corri'petent teacher in the elements 
 of domestic economy ! Unfortunately, at present it will be found that girls who have 
 shown ability at school too often rather despise household work ; and generally it will be 
 found in a family where there is more than one girl that one sister will cook and scrub, 
 while the other— who prides herself somewhat on her " gentility," as those sort of people 
 
XCVl CASSELLS NEW DICTIONARY OP COOKERY. 
 
 call it — looks out for a business that is light and fanciful, such as millinery. Suppose, 
 however, the girls get married in their own station of life, which would make the better 
 wife of these two ? It is only first-class cooks who reaUse the first principles of cookery — 
 viz. cleanliness and economy, and it is on these points that the poor chiefly break down ; 
 indeed, we have already called attention to the want of cleanliness on the part of cooks, 
 which arises not so much from indolence as ignorance. 
 
 Unfortunately, our English kitchen utensils are, as a rule, so shaped that perfect 
 cleanhness, such as is met with in France, is barely possible. The English enamelled 
 stewpan is, however, quite equal to the tinned copper utensils of France for ordinary pur- 
 poses, and in these vessels perfect cleanliness is, comparatively speaking, easy. We shall 
 refer to the shape of vessels at more length when we come to consider kitchen utensils, 
 but would here say one word to housekeepers on jugs. Is it reasonable on your part to 
 continue buying milk- jugs shaped bulb-hke, with narrow necks, into which the hand can- 
 not be inserted, and yet to express surprise that your milk is sometimes sour ? I am per- 
 fectly aware that jug-brushes exist, but it is almost impossible to get servants to use them. 
 
 With regard to economy, we have already explained that we do not mean living plainly 
 or even cheaply, but using up ail the material we have. There is no want of economy 
 in the strictest sense of the word in giving broken victuals to the poor, provided we know 
 they eat them. Want of economy is exempUfied in giving a half-picked sirloin of beef- 
 bone to the dog, in throwing the end in the pig-tub, or in leaving the ends of mutton^ chops 
 and the bones half picked on the plate. 
 
 Again, a fruitful source of waste, which is in reality a synonymous term for want of 
 economy, is allowing, through carelessness, ignorance, or want of forethought, food of 
 any description to get bad. For instance, forgetting in hot weather to warm up soup 
 when it has been left, but is not required for the next day's consumption ; or in leaving 
 in sultry weather a joint of meat all night in a hot place, instead of preserving it by placing 
 it in a cool larder or ice-chest. Again, milk can often be preserved from turning sour for 
 one night by the simple plan of boiling it, and pouring it into a clean jug. These and a 
 htmdred other simple methods by which food can be preserved, and thereby added to the 
 wealth of the coimtry, are principles of education that ought to form part of every girl's 
 elementary education. 
 
 There is perhaps nothing that would so afEect the future prosperity and greatness of 
 our country than universally inculcating in the minds of the young throughout the length 
 and breadth of the land the importance of economy in the necessaries of life. Our present 
 teachers of the young have high responsibihties. It is not so much that a great multitude 
 follow them as that a great multitude are driven imto them. Whatever difEerences may 
 arise as to creed or no creed, surely all will unite in agreeing with the great Teacher that it 
 is our duty to gather up the fragments that remain, that nothing be lost. 
 
GASSELL'S 
 
 NEW DICTIONARY OF COOKERY 
 
 ABERNETHY BISCUITS. 
 
 Eub one ounce of butter into one pound of the 
 best flour, adding a dessert-spoonful of sugar 
 and half an ounce of caraway seeds. Mix all 
 together with two eggs and a little milk. Boll 
 the batter out, knead it into small round cakes, 
 making holes with a fork to allow the steam to 
 escape, and bake in a moderate oven. Time 
 to bake, fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 6d. 
 Sufficient for eight biscuits. 
 
 ACID ICE FOR PUDDINGS, TARTS, &C. 
 
 Strain the juice of a large lemon, add to it 
 three ounces ofj-sifted sugar, and the whites of 
 four eggs beaten to a firm froth. Pile this over 
 the pudding after it is cooked, and return it to 
 the oven for a few minutes to stiffen. Time to 
 bake, ten minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Suffi- 
 cient for a pudding for four or five persons. 
 
 ACIDULATED ALKALI. 
 
 Grate the rind of two lemons upon four 
 ounces of loaf sugar, pound it, and mix it thor- 
 oughly with two ounces of bicarbonate of soda 
 and two ounces of tartaric acid. Bottle it, cork 
 it closely, and keep in a dry place. A small 
 tea-spoonful stirred briskly into half a tumbler- 
 ful of water will make a pleasant draught, and 
 it should be drunk during effervescence. Time 
 to prepare, half an hour. Probable cost for 
 this quantity, 6d. 
 ACIDULATED DROPS. 
 
 Clarify some sugar as follows : to every two 
 pounds of sugar allow one pint of water and the 
 white of one egg ; put the sugar and water into 
 a saucepan, and stir them over the fire until 
 the former is thoroughly dissolved; add the 
 white of the egg, and boil, skimming constantly 
 until the syrup looks quite clear. Eemove it 
 from the fire, strain it, and return it to the 
 saucepan. Mix with it tartaric acid or lemon- 
 juice, according to taste, and let all boil to- 
 gether until the syrup crackles when jiut into 
 cold water. Have ready a well-oiled dish, and 
 drop the sugar as regularly and quickly as pos- 
 sible into it. If there is any appearance of 
 the syrup boiling over, two or three drops of 
 oil, or a little cold water, may be put in. Time 
 to prepare, aboiit half an hour. Probable 
 cost. Is. 
 ACIDULATED LEMONADE. 
 
 To three pints of boiling water add four 
 ounces of fresh lemon-juice, half an ounce of 
 thin lemon-peel freshly cut, and four ounces of 
 B 
 
 finely-powdered loaf sugar. When cold, strain 
 through a jelly-bag. If not wanted immedi- 
 . ately, it must be bottled and carefully corked. 
 
 ACIDULATED PUDDING. 
 
 Take the thin rind of three lemons and two 
 Seville oranges, with a quarter of a pound of 
 sugar ; place them in a bowl with a pint of 
 boiling water, and let them remain about an 
 hour and a half ; then remove the rinds, and 
 add the juice of the lemons. Put three or four 
 slices of sponge-cake into a glass dish, and 
 strain the liquid over them; let them soak till 
 they have absorbed the syrup, then pour over 
 them a good custard, and strew a little pink 
 sugar over the top. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. Probable cost. Is. 2d. 
 
 ADELAIDE PUDDING. 
 
 Put a pint of water and the thinly-peeled rind 
 and juice of a lemon into a saucepan. Bring it 
 slowly to a boil ; then- take it off the fire and 
 stir into it, while hot, six ounces of butter and 
 a cupful of sugar ; mix with it, very gradually 
 and smoothly, half a pound of flour; let it cool ; 
 add six well-beaten eggs aiid a tea-spoonful of 
 baking-powder. Half fill some buttered cups, 
 and bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, about 
 half an hour. Sufficient for one dozen cups. 
 Probable cost. Is. 4d. 
 
 ADELAIDE SANDWICHES. 
 
 Cut up cold chicken and ham in small squares, 
 in the proportion of two-thirds of chicken to 
 one-third" of ham. Next place two large table- 
 spoonfuls of Worcester sauce and one of curry 
 paste in a stowpan, and when they boil add the 
 chicken and ham, mixing all well together. Pre- 
 pare thin slices of stale bread, cut in small 
 circles, by frying them in clarified butter. 
 Spread the prepared chicken and ham lightly 
 between two slices of the bread. Upon the top 
 of each sandwich place a ball, about the size 
 of a walnut, composed of grated Parmesan 
 cheese and butter in equal parts, kneaded into 
 a paste. Place the sandwiches on a baking- 
 cloth, bake for five minutes in a brisk oven, dish 
 up on a napkin, and serve as a second-course 
 savoury dish. 
 
 ADMIRAL'S SAUCE. 
 
 Make half a pint of melted butter, and put 
 into it one tea-spoonful of chopped capers, three 
 or four shallots chopped, two pounded ancho- 
 vies, and a little thin lemon-rind. Let all sim- 
 mer gently; add pepjjer, salt, and the juice of 
 
AGN 
 
 ALE 
 
 a lemon, and serve in a tureen. Time to sim- 
 mer, till the anchovies are dissolved. Probable 
 cost. Is. Sufficient for a pint of sauce. 
 
 AGNEW PUDDING. 
 
 Pare and core eight russets, and boil them to 
 a pulp with the rind of half a lemon. Beat up 
 the yolks of three eggs, and add to them three 
 ounces of melted butter; sweeten to taste, and 
 beat all together. Line a pudding-dish with 
 puff paste, pour in the mixture, and bate until 
 it becomes a light brown colour. Time to bake, 
 thirty minutes. ''Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient 
 for four persons. ' 
 
 AIGUILLETTES DE DINDONNEAU ECARLATE. 
 
 {See TcEKET, Slices of, with Tokgx'e.) 
 
 ALBANY CAKES. 
 
 Lightly beat six eggs, and stir them into a 
 quart of milk; add a tea-spoonful each of bi- 
 carbonate of soda and salt, dissolved in a little 
 hot water. Stir in sufScient fine flour to make a 
 thick batter. Butter small tins the size of a 
 tea-saucer, and half fill them with the mixture. 
 Bake them in a quick oven. This makes very 
 nice cakes, which are much used for breakfast 
 in America. Time to bake, twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost. Is. 2d. 
 
 ALBEMARLE PUDDING. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of sweet and three 
 or four bitter almonds ; blanch and pound them, 
 being careful not to let them oil. Beat four 
 eggs and add to them their weight in sifted 
 sugar ; whisk them over the fire till the sugar is 
 melted, then pour them out at once ; let them 
 get cold, and then stir in the almond paste. 
 Beat altogether to a froth, and while in this 
 state put the misture into a well-oiled tin, and 
 bake immediately. Time to bake, half an hour. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable 
 cost. Is. 
 
 ALBERT CAKE. 
 
 Take the yolks of twelve eggs and the whites 
 of two, and beat them up with ten ounces of 
 pounded sugar and eight ounces of finely- 
 
 ALBEET CAKE. 
 
 chopped almonds, for twenty minutes. Whisk 
 the remaining whites of the eggs, and mix with 
 them six ounces of flour, two ounces of finely- 
 shred candied orange-peel, a tea-spoonful of 
 cinnamon powder, half a tea-spoonful of ground 
 cloves, and a little grated lemon-rind. Mix all 
 thoroughly together, pour out the batter into a 
 .convenient sized mould, and bake in an oven 
 with a moderate heat for about an hour. When 
 
 done, and sufficiently cold, cut into thin slices 
 ready for serving. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Suffi- 
 cient for a quart mould. 
 ALBERT PUDDING. 
 
 Beat six ounces of butter quite thin, then 
 gradually mix with it five well-beaten eggs, half 
 a pound of flour, and six ounces of loaf sugar 
 on which the rind of a lemon has been grated; 
 add half a pound of stoned raisins, and place 
 the entire mixture in a mould which has been 
 
 AlBEET PUDDING. 
 
 well buttered and lined with sUces and stars 
 made of citron peel and figs. Tie it up closely, 
 and steam or boil it for at least three houi-s. 
 Serve it with good melted butter, flavoured witk 
 lemon and brandy. Sufficient for six persons. 
 Probable cost, 2s., exclusive of brandy. 
 ALBERT PUDDING (another way). 
 
 Well beat two ounces of butter to a cream, 
 and stir into it the yolks of three eggs. Add 
 gradually three ounces of sugar, two ounces of 
 flour, two ounces of bread-crumbs, quarter of a 
 pound of sultana raisins, and tte whites of the 
 eggs well whisked. Pour into a buttered mould, 
 cover with an oiled paper and a cloth, and steam 
 it. Serve with wine sauce. Time to steam, 
 three hours. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for 
 four persons. 
 
 ALDERMAN'S PUDDING. 
 
 Pour three pints of boiling milk over six 
 table-spoonfuls of finely-grated bread-crumbs, 
 and soak for half an hour. Shred finely six 
 ounces of firm beef suet; mix with it a heaped 
 table-spoonful of stoned raisins and another of 
 currants; add a little sugar and grated nut- 
 meg, and the rind of half a lemon chopped 
 finely. Mix these ingredients together with five 
 e^gs well beaten. Line the edges of a shallow 
 pie-dish with good crust, place the pudding in 
 it, and bake. It is also very nice steamed. 
 Time to bake, forty minutes ; to steam, two 
 hours. Sufficient foi six or eight persons. Prob- 
 able cost, 2s. 
 
 ALE-BERRY. 
 
 Soak two large spoonfuls of oatmeal groats 
 in a little water for an hour, strain the liquor, 
 and add to it half a pint of boiling beer or 
 porter ; pour the mixture into a saucepan, and 
 boil it; grate a little whole ginger into it, and 
 any seasoning which may be preferred ; sweeten 
 it to taste. Time, ten minutes to boil. Suffi- 
 cient for one person. Probable cost, 3d. 
 ALE CUP. 
 
 Squeeze the iuice of a lemon into a round of hot 
 toast ; lay on it a thin piece of the rind, a table- 
 spoonful of powdered sugar, a little grated nut- 
 meg or powdered allspice, and a sprig of balm. 
 
ALE 
 
 ALL 
 
 Pour over these one glass of brandy, two of 
 sherry, and three pints of mild ale. Do not 
 allow the balm to remain many minutes. Suffi- 
 cient for five or six persons. Probable cost, 2s. 
 
 ALEj DRAUGHT (to keep in good condition), 
 
 Keep the ale in a cool, dry, well-ventilated 
 cellar, with a temperature of from fifty to sixty 
 degrees. If allowed to fall below fifty degrees 
 the appearance of the beer may be spoilt; if it 
 rises above sixty or sixty-five degrees it may 
 turn sour. Place the cask firmly and securely 
 on its Btand, and leave it undisturbed for the 
 first twenty-four hours, as if drawn too soon 
 th9 beer may never brighten at all. Leave the 
 vent-peg loose for twelve hours after the ale is 
 placed on its stand, and then if it has ceased 
 to effervesce, but not unless, drive it in tightly. 
 If the ale is not to be used immediately loosen 
 the vent for three or four minutes each day. 
 With this exception the vent may be left un- 
 touched, as if too much air is let into the barrel 
 the ale will become flat. When it is necessary 
 to tilt the barrel, raise it steadily at thfe back end 
 and fasten it securely, so that it need not after- 
 wards be disturbed. It may then be drawn -off, 
 and remain good until the very last. As soon 
 as a cask is empty cork it up at once, or it will 
 become foul. ^ 
 
 ALE FLIP. 
 
 Put. into a saucepan three pints of ale,'' a 
 table-spoonful of sugar, a blade of mace, a clove, 
 and a small piece of butter, and briner the 
 liquid to a boil. Beat the white of one egg 
 and the yolks of two thoroughly, mixing with 
 them a table-spoonful of cold ale. Mix all to- 
 gether, and then pour the whole rapidly from 
 one large jug to another from a good .height, 
 for some minutes, to froth it thoroughly, biit 
 do not allow it to get cool. Probable cost. 
 Is. 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 ALE POSSET. 
 
 Boil a pint of new milk and pour it over a 
 slice of toasted bread. Stir in the beaten yolk 
 of an egg, and a piece of butter the size of a 
 nutmeg, and sugar to taste. Mix these with a 
 pint of hot ale, and boil for a few minutes. 
 When .the scum rises it is sufficiently ready. 
 Time, five minutes to boil; Probable cost, 8d. 
 Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 ALE PUNCH. 
 
 Put into a bowl one quart of mild ale, one 
 wine-glassful of sherry, the like quantity of 
 brandy, a table-spoonful of icing sugar, the peel 
 and juice of one lemon, a little grated nutmeg, 
 and a small piece of ice. Serve in small tum- 
 blers. Probable cost, about Is. 2d. 
 
 ALE SANGAREE. 
 
 Put into a small jug half a pint of boiling hot 
 ale, add a tea-spoonful of icing sugar. Mix 
 well, serve in a tumbler, and dust with grated 
 nutmeg. This may also be made as a summer 
 drink, by putting the ale in cold, with a small 
 lump of ice. Probable cost, 3d. 
 
 ALE, TO MULL. 
 
 Put half a pint of ale, a clove, a little whole 
 ginger, a piece of butter the size of a small 
 marble, and a tea-spoonful of sugar, into a 
 saucepan, and bring it to boiling point. Beat 
 
 two eggs with a table-spoonful of cold ale, and 
 pour the boiling ale into them, and then into a 
 large jug. Pass the whole from one jug into 
 another for some minutes, and at a good height. 
 Return it to the saucepan and heat it again, 
 but do not allow it to boil. Time, a quarter of 
 an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for one 
 person. 
 ALE, WITH CHEESE. 
 
 Crumble about a quarter of a pound of 
 Cheshire or Gloucester cheese, and put it into 
 a saucepan with a small tea-spoonful of sugar, 
 another of mustard, and enough ale to cover it. 
 Let it remain on the fire until thoroughly 
 melted, stirring all the time, and then add the 
 yolk of an egg. Serve it on a very hot dish, 
 and stick all over it little sippets of toasted 
 bread, or pieces of pulled bread. Time to pre- 
 pare, fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 6d. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 ALLEMAND SAUCE. 
 
 Put into a saucepan one pint of chicken stock, 
 with a little salt, six mushrooms, a tMn strips 
 of lemon-peel, and a little parsley. Let it boil, 
 then draw it to the si(fe of the fire, and allow it 
 to simmer slowly for half an hour or more. 
 Thicken it with a little flour, let it boil for a few 
 minutes, and strain. Add the beaten yolks of 
 three eggs, and replace it on the fire. Stir it. 
 constantly, and make it thoroughly hot; but it 
 must not boil up again, or the sauce will be 
 spoiled. When off the fire, stir a little butter 
 into it, and the juice of half a lemon. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. Sufficient for » pint of sauce. 
 
 ALLEMAND SAUCE (anotlier way). 
 
 Put into a saucepan two ounces of butter. 
 When melted, stir in briskly a dessert-spoonful 
 of flour and half a pint of white stocJi, or fail- 
 ing that, water. Add a little lemon-peel, salt 
 and pepper to taste, a small lump of sugar, an 
 onion, and a little nutmeg. Let all simmer by 
 the side of the fire for a little while, then 
 strain. Mix with the sauce half a cupful of 
 milk or cream, and the yolk of one egg; put it 
 on the fire once more, and stir it briskly till it 
 thickens. It must not boil. Add a little 
 lemon-juice. Time, forty minutes. Probable 
 cost, 8d. Sufficient for three-quarters of a pint 
 of sauce. 
 
 ALLSPICE. 
 
 This useful spice is the berry of the Eugenia 
 Pimenta, a small tree growing in the West 
 Indies. The fruit is gathered when green and 
 unripe, and put to dry in the sun, when it turns 
 black. Large quantities are used in the manu- 
 facture of bottled sauces. The berries combine 
 the flavour of cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg, 
 hence the name allspice. It is also known as 
 pimento or Jamaica pepper. 
 
 ALLSPICE, ESSENCE OF. 
 
 Pour two drachms of oil of pimento very 
 gradually into three ounces of spirits of wine, 
 and let it stand for a few minutes. Put it into 
 a bottle and cork it closely. Probable cost. 
 Is. 8d. Five or six drops will flavour a pint. 
 
 ALLSPICE, TINCTURE OF. 
 
 Put two ounces of powdered allspice into a 
 bottle with one pint of brandy. Let it soak for 
 
ALM 
 
 ALM 
 
 a fortnight, shaking it up every three days. 
 Pour it into another bottle, leaving the sedi- 
 ment, and cork it closely. Half a tea-spoonful 
 wiU flavour a pint. Probable cost, exclusive of 
 the brandy, 4d. 
 
 ALMOND APPLES. 
 
 Peel and take the cores from six large cooking 
 apples ; pound two ounces of almonds to a paste 
 with two ounces of butter, the same of sugar, 
 two eggs, and a few drops of essence of almonds. 
 When quite smooth fill the cavity where the 
 core was taken out, bake slowly until soft; let 
 them get cold, then heap up a little whipped 
 cream on top, and serve. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 ALMOND CAKE, PLAIN. 
 
 Blanch and pound in a mortar three ounces of 
 sweet almonds and seven or eight bitter 
 almonds. Hub the rind of a lemon upon four 
 ounces of loaf sugar, and pound this with the 
 almonds. Add the yolks of four eggs well 
 beaten, and . a piece of butter the size of a 
 walnut.. Work in a quarter of a pound of fine 
 flour, and, lastly, the whites of the eggs beaten 
 to a solid froth. Put into a welKouttered 
 mould, and bake in a good oven. Time, three- 
 quarters of an hour. Probable cost, Js. 
 
 ALMOND CAKE, RICH. 
 
 Whisk and strain six eggs, mix them with 
 four ounces of pounded sweet almonds, half an 
 ounce of pounded bitter almonds, and six ounces 
 of sifted sugar; sift in six ounces of flour, 
 heating constantly all the time. Then add six 
 ounces of butter, which must be melted, but 
 not hot, a small portion at a time, beating very 
 thoroughly as each portion is added, and lastly 
 "the finely grated rind of a lemon. Line a caKe 
 tin with buttered paper, and rather more than 
 half fill it with the mixture. Bake in a well- 
 lieated oven for about an hour, covering the top 
 with a buttered paper when sufficiently coloured. 
 Test with a small skewer or knife in the usual 
 way. Probable cost, 2s. 
 
 ALMOND CAKE (Small, for Tea). 
 
 Whisk and strain three eggs, mix them with 
 two ounces of pounded sweet almonds, a quarter 
 of an ounce of pounded bitter almonds, and 
 three ounces of sifted sugar ; sift in three 
 ounces of flour, beating constantly all the time. 
 Then add three ounces of melted butter, a little 
 at a time, beating thoroughly as each portion 
 is added; lastly add the grated rind of half a 
 lemon, and beat all well together. Butter 
 some patty-pans, and rather more than half 
 fill each with the mixture. Bake in a well- 
 heated oven, taking care that they are nicely 
 browned but not burnt. This should take from 
 twenty to thirty minutes. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 
 ALMOND CANDY (or HARDBAKE). 
 
 Boil one pound of sugar and half a pint of 
 water until it becomes brittle when dropped in 
 cold water; then add a quarter of a pound of 
 almonds blanched and spht, the juice of half a 
 lemon, and one ounce of butter. Boil until the 
 candy hardens at once in the water. Pour it 
 out on a well-oiled dish. When cold, it may be 
 taken off the plate and kept for' use in a tin 
 Box. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 7d. 
 
 ALMOND CHEESECAKES. 
 
 Blanch and pound four ounces of sweet and 
 five or six bitter almonds with a few drops of 
 water ; add a quarter of a pound of sugar rubbed 
 with lemon-rind, a spoonful of cream, a small 
 piece of butter, and the whites of two eggs 
 thoroughly whisked. Mix, and fill small tartlet- 
 tins, lined with pufl: paste, and bake in a moder- 
 ate oven for twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. 
 
 ALMOND CHEESE-STRAWS.. 
 
 Take four ounces ground almonds, four 
 ounces castor sugar, one egg, and two ounces 
 butter. Eub the butter into the ground 
 almonds, mix in the castor sugar, and add a 
 pinch of salt. Beat the yolk of the egg and 
 stir in. EoU the mixture, and cut into thin 
 strips. Beat up the white of the egg, and 
 brush each strip with this. Sprinkle lightly 
 with castor sugar and bake in a moderate oven' 
 till pale brown. Probable cost, lOd. 
 
 ALMOND CHOCOLATE DROPS. 
 
 Put a metal mortar in a hot oven till it is well 
 heated, throw into it a quarter of a pound of 
 cake chocolate, broken into small pieces; pound 
 it to a paste, then mix with it a quarter of a 
 pound of finely-sifted sugar. Blanch, slice, and 
 dry in a cool oven two ounces of sweet 
 almonds ; roll each slice smoothly in a, little of 
 the chocolate paste, and put them upon sheets 
 of writing-paper till they are cold. Time to 
 prepare, about one hour. Probable cost, 8d. 
 
 ALMOND CREAMS. 
 
 Blanch and pound five ounces of sweet and 
 one ounce of bitter almonds to a paste'; put to 
 this loaf sugar to taste^ rubbed with lemon-rind, 
 and pounded. Rub smoothly a dessert-spoon- 
 ful of corn-flour into a quart of milk, or if it is 
 to be had use a pint and a half of cream ; add 
 the yolks of three eggs well beaten. Put the 
 whole, when well mixed, into a saucepan, set it 
 on the fire, and stir constantly until it thickens ; 
 but on no account allow it to boil. The whites 
 of the eggs may be whisked, and a little placed 
 on the top of each glass. Time, about ten 
 minutes to boil the cream. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 
 ALMOND CREAM ICE. 
 
 Blanch and pound two ounces of sweet al- 
 monds with a tea-spoonful of rose-water and a 
 little loaf sugar; add gradually a quart of 
 cream, and boil gently for a few minutes. Let 
 it cool slowly, and place it in the ice-pail. Serve 
 with sponge-cakes. Time to freeze, about half 
 an hour. Probable cost, 3s. 6d., with cream at 
 Is. 6d. per pint. 
 
 ALMOND CROQUANTE8. 
 
 Blanch and pound half a pound of sweet 
 almonds, with half a pound of sugar rubbed on 
 the rind of half a lemon, and a glass of white 
 wine. Add a quarter of a pound of butter and 
 the yolks of four eggs. Mix all into a stiff 
 paste, roll out, cut it into diamonds, stars, etc., 
 and bake these in a quick oven. Dip them for 
 a minute into boiling sugar, and let them drain 
 until cool. Keep them in a dry place, and they 
 will be useful to garnish any kind of sweet dish. 
 Time, about half an hour. Probable coat. 
 Is. lOd. 
 
ALM 
 
 ALM 
 
 ALMOND CUSTARD. 
 
 Place in a saucepan over the fire a pint of new 
 milk or cream, with a few lumps of sugar rubbed 
 on the rind of a lemon, a piece of cinnamon, 
 and four bitter almonds. Let it simmer gently 
 for ten minutes. Blanch and pound two ounces 
 of sweet almonds, with a little rose-water to 
 prevent oiling. Mix the ingredients well to- 
 gether, and add the yolks of four eggs, well 
 beaten. Stir the custard gently over a moderate 
 fire until it thickens, but on no account allow it to 
 boil; and pour into glasses. Probable cost, made 
 with milk, 9d. Sufficient for six or seven glasses. 
 
 ALMOND DARIOLES. 
 
 Beat two ounces of fresh butter to a cream. 
 Mix with it the same weight of flour, a heaped 
 table-spoonful of sugar, half a pint of milk and 
 half a pint of cream, four well-whisked eggs, 
 and a little chopped lemon-peel. Mix all well 
 together, and then add, a drop at a time, a 
 little essence of almond, to suit the taste; too 
 much of the essence will make the dish disagree- 
 able. Stir over the fire for ten minutes. Line 
 dariole moulds with tartlet paste, fill them three 
 parts with the batter, and bake in a quick oven 
 until the pastry is sufficiently ready. Turn the 
 darioles out of the moulds, strew sifted sugar 
 over them, and serve. Time to bake, about 
 twenty minutes. Sufficient to fill about half a 
 dozen dariole moulds. Probable cost, Is.^ 8d. 
 
 ALMOND DIAMONDS. 
 
 Blanch and pound six ounces of sweet al- 
 monds ; add six ounces of finely-sifted sugar, 
 and mix them to a stiff paste with some white 
 of egg. Strew a little sugar on the board, and 
 roll out the paste to the thickness of a penny- 
 piece, then stamp it into diamonds with a 
 pastry-cutter. Bake in a cool oven, and when 
 cold, brush them over with a little syrup, strew 
 sugar over them, and dry them in the oven. 
 Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost. 
 Is. Sufficient for about two dozen diamonds. 
 
 ALMOND DRINK. 
 
 Put six ounces of ground sweet almonds and 
 two ounces of ground bitter almonds into a 
 saucepan with one quart of water, and let it 
 simmer for a quarter of an hour; then add one 
 pound of loaf sugar, broken small, and when 
 dissolved strain through a bag or sieve. .When 
 cold it is ready for use. A table-spoonful of 
 orange-flower water added is a great improve- 
 ment. One wine-glassful of this mixture put in 
 a tumbler with a bottle of soda water is a most 
 excellent and refreshing drink. Probable cost. 
 Is. without the soda water. 
 ALMOND FLUMMERY. 
 
 Cover one ounce of gelatine with water ; let it 
 stand half an hour, then pour upon it a pint and 
 a half of boiling milk or cream that has been 
 flavoured with one ounce of sweet and one ounce 
 of bitter almonds which have been previously 
 blanched and pounded, and eight or nine lumps 
 of sugar — in the lump, for fear of dust— on which 
 a little lemon has been rubbed. Stir the mix- 
 ture occasionally till cool, to prevent a scum 
 forming. Strain it carefully. Pour it into a 
 mould which has been wetted with cold water, 
 and let it stand until quite firm. If liked, isin- 
 glass may be used instead of gelatine. Prob- 
 
 able coat, if made with milk. Is. Sufficient for 
 a quart mould, which will be enough for six or 
 eight persons. 
 ALMOND FRITTERS. 
 
 Blanch and pound two ounces of sweet 
 almonds with a little water ; mix them gradu- 
 ally in one pint of new milk or cream witii two 
 table-spoonfuls of ground rice and the well- 
 beaten yolks of four eggs, and the whites of 
 two. Sweeten according to taste. Melt two 
 ounces of butter in the frying-pan, and, when 
 hot, fry the mixture a spoonful at a time. Stir 
 it well till it is a golden-brown. Cover it with 
 sifted sugar. Time to fry, five minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, if made with milk. Is. Sufficient for 
 three or four persons. 
 ALMOND GAUFFRE5. 
 
 Mix a table-spoonful of fine flour with a little 
 sugar, the rind of a lemon chopped small, and 
 two eggs. When thoroughly mixed, add to 
 them four ounces of blanched and finely-sliced 
 sweet almonds. Make a baking-tin quite hot, 
 and oil it well. Spread the mixture on it very 
 thin, and bake it in a moderate oven until 
 slightly coloured. Take it out and stamp it in 
 rounds, and fold each over a reed in the shape 
 of a small horn. This must be done while they 
 are hot, and great care must be taken not to- 
 break them. Fill them with a little bright- 
 coloured jam, and put them in a hot place ta 
 dry. Probable cost. Is. 
 ALMOND GINGERBREAD. 
 
 Melt half a pound of treacle with two table- 
 spoonfuls of butter, and add to them two table- 
 spoonfuls of flour and two of ground rice, a 
 small cupful of sugar, a little chopped lemon- 
 and candied-peel. When these ingredients are 
 thoroughly mixed, put to them a quarter of a 
 pound of almonds blanched and pounded. Beat 
 well together for a few minutes, then bake in 
 small cakes on a well-oiled tin. The oven must 
 not be hot. Time to bake, forty minutes. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. per pound. 
 
 ALMOND ICING FOR CAKES. 
 
 Blanch one pound of sweet almonds and eight 
 bitter almonds. Pound them in a mortar to a 
 smooth paste, and drop in once or twice during 
 the process a very little orange-flower water. 
 Add to them one pound of sifted sugar, and as 
 much white of egg as will make a soft stiff 
 paste. When all are well mixed together, lay 
 the icing on the top of the cake, already baked, 
 a little more than half an, inch thick, as 
 smoothly and evenly as possible. Pul it in a 
 cool place to dry. The sugar icing goes over 
 this (see Icing, SuGfAE). Time to dry, about one 
 day. Probable cost of almonds. Is. to 2s. 6d. 
 per pound. 
 ALMOND JELLY. 
 
 Put one ounce and a half of best isinglass, a 
 quart of water, a little sugar, and a quarter of a 
 pound of blanched and pounded almonds into a 
 saucepan. Let them boil half an hour. Strain 
 the liquid carefully through a jelly-bag, flavour 
 it with a little brandy, and pour it into a wet 
 mould. If calf's-foot stock is used, the almonds 
 should be boiled with a little sugar and water 
 separately for some time, to extract the flavour, 
 then the liquid mixed with the stock, and all 
 boiled Up together again, with a tea-spoonful 
 
ALM 
 
 ALM 
 
 of isinglass to a quart of stock. Time, an hour 
 and a half. Probable cost, 2s., without the 
 brandy. Sufficient for a moderate-sized mould. 
 ALMOND JUMBLES. 
 
 Work two ounces of butter into half a pound 
 of flour, then add two table-spoonfuls of sifted 
 sugar, a little lemon-juice, and two ounces of 
 sweet and four or five bitter almonds, blanched 
 and beaten to a paste with the white of an egg. 
 Mix thoroughly, roll it out rather thin, cut 
 into small round cakes, place them on well- 
 oiled tins, and bake in a quick oven. Time to 
 bake, ten minutes. Probable cost. Is. 4d. per 
 pound. 
 
 ALMOND MERINGUES. 
 
 Whisk the whites of four eggs to the firmest 
 possible froth, and mix slightly with them a 
 •quarter of a pound of sifted sugar. Have ready 
 some pieces of writing-paper fastened upon a 
 board, to prevent the meringues being too much 
 •coloured at the bottom, and drop them upon it 
 in the form of a half egg. Sprinkle some finely- 
 shred almonds over them, and upon this a little 
 coarsely-sifted sugar. Place them in a cool 
 oven, and, when they are firm, take them out, 
 scoop out a little of the inside, place them on 
 clean paper, upside down, and return them to 
 the oven, and when they are crisp through they 
 are done. When ready to serve, place almond 
 cream inside, and join them together with the 
 white of an egg. Time to bake, half an hour. 
 Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for a small dish. 
 ALMOND MILK. 
 
 Blanch and pound four ounces of sweet and 
 six bitter almonds to a paste, adding a few 
 ■drops of orange-flower water every now and 
 then, to prevent oiling. Add a quart of cold 
 wcter, and let it stand two or three hours, then 
 ^strain and bottle for use. A table-spoonful of 
 brandy may be added if liked. When wanted, 
 a little of the almond and orange-flower water 
 must be mixed with the milk, and sweetened, 
 and it will be found to be a very refreshing 
 Taeverage for feverish patients. Time, four hours. 
 Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for a quart of milk. 
 ALMOND NOUGAT. 
 
 Blanch and chop roughly six ounces of sweet 
 and five bitter almonds, and put them in a cool 
 oven till they are slightly browned. Put three 
 ounces of sifted sugar into a saucepan, and 
 when it is dissolved throw in the almonds, and 
 mix all together for a few minutes. The 
 almonds must be hot when they are put into the 
 saucepan. Spread the paste about a quarter of 
 an inch thick, quickly and evenly on a well- 
 oiled slab, cut it into fingers, strew some small 
 white comfits over these, and arrange them in a 
 pile. Or, the nougat may be spread on a well- 
 oiled pie-dish, and when it has taken the form, 
 turned out upon a dish. The nougat should be 
 made and moulded as quickly as possible, or it 
 will harden. Probable cost, 9d., for this quan- 
 tity. Sufficient for a small dish. 
 ALMOND OMELET. 
 
 Beat four eggs with a little milk for a minute 
 or more. Have ready as many sweet almonds 
 as may be wished, blanched and pounded. Put 
 into an omelet-pan a piece of butter the size of 
 a large egg; let it get quite hot, but not 
 
 browned ; pour in the mixture, stirring it gently 
 until it begins to set. Then arrange it nicely, 
 lay the pounded almonds on the top, and double 
 the omelet over, to cover the almonds com- 
 pletely. Keep shaking the pan, and add a little 
 butter if it seems likely to. stick. When it is a 
 nice golden-brown, place it on a hot dish, and 
 cover with a little sifted sugar. Time, five 
 minutes to fry. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient 
 for two piersons. 
 ALMOND PASTE (to Make Quickly). 
 
 Pound as many almonds as are required, 
 moistening with white of egg to prevent oiling, 
 and then roll them with a rolling-pin until they 
 are smooth. They will be nicer if they have 
 been kept in a warm place. This quickly-made 
 almond paste is very useful for garnishing 
 pastry. 
 
 ALMOND PASTRY. 
 
 Blanch and pound to a paste three ounces of 
 almonds and a little rose-water. Add to them 
 gradually four ounces of loaf sugar and an 
 equal weight of fine flour. Stir in the well- 
 whisked whites of two eggs, and roll out on a 
 pastry-board. Stamp out any pretty shapes 
 that may he fancied; bake in a moderate oven, 
 and keep in a dry place in a tin box to orna- 
 ment sweet dishes of any description. Time to 
 bake, eight or nine minutes. Probable cost, 8d. 
 
 ALMOND PUDDING, BOILED. 
 
 Blanch and pound with a little water three 
 ounces of sweet and four or five bitter almonds ; 
 add a pint of new milk, sugar to taste, a little 
 nutmeg, a table-spoonfnl of flour, mixed 
 smoothly, a table-spoonful of grated bread- 
 crumbs, two eggs well beaten, and lastly, the 
 whites of two eggs whisked to a froth. Pour 
 the mixture into a well-buttered mould, and 
 steam gently till the pudding is set. When 
 done, let it stand for a few minutes before turn- 
 ing out. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for four 
 persons. 
 
 ALMOND PUDDING, JEWISH. 
 
 Put four ounces of sweet almonds, and three 
 bitter ones, into a saucepan of cold water. Heat 
 it gradually, and when too hot to bear the fin- 
 gers put the almonds into a basin, slip off the 
 skins, and throw them at once into cold water. 
 Dry them well, and pound them in a mortar 
 until they form a, smooth paste ; drop a tea- 
 spoonful of cold water over them two or three 
 times to prevent them oiling. Mix with them 
 four ounces of powdered loaf sugar, and add 
 two table-spoonfuls of rose-water, together with 
 the yolks of four, and the whites of three, eggs 
 well beaten. Stir briskly for ten minutes, pour 
 into a well-oiled mould, and bake in a quick 
 oven. Turn the pudding out of the mould before 
 serving, and pour round it a thick syrup, 
 flavoured with the rind and juice of a lemon, 
 and coloured with cochineal. Time, half an 
 hour to bake. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient 
 for three or four persons. 
 
 ALMOND PUDDING, PLAIN. 
 
 Soak three table-spoonfuls of finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs in milk. Add four ounces of 
 blanched and pounded almonds, a piece of but- 
 ter the size of an egg melted in a pint of new 
 milk, sugar to taste, a tea-spoonful of grated 
 
ALM 
 
 ALM 
 
 lemon-rind, a scrape of nutmeg, and three eggs 
 well beaten. A, glass of sherry or raisin wine 
 may be added. Palace in a pie-dish lined with 
 paste, and bake in a moderate oven. Time, half 
 an hour. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Enough for 
 three or four persons. 
 ALMOND PUDDING, RICH. 
 
 Blanch and beat to a paste a quarter of a 
 pound of sweet almonds and five or six bitter 
 ones, with a little water to prevent oiling; add 
 a little sugar rubbed on lemon-rind, a piece of 
 butter the size of an egg, melted in a glass of 
 warm cream, five eggs well beaten, a little nut- 
 meg, and a glass of sherry. Put the mixture 
 into a pie-dish and bake in a moderate oven, or 
 put it into buttered cups, and turn out. Serve 
 with bweet sauce. Time to bake, half an hour. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 4d. Sufiicient for four per- 
 sons. 
 ALMOND PUFFS. 
 
 Blanch and pound two ounces of sweet 
 almonds with a little water. Add two table- 
 spoonfuls of finely-sifted svigar, two ounces of 
 clarified butter, two tablp-spoonfuls of flour. 
 When these are thoroughly mixed, add the 
 beaten yolks of two eggs, and a cupful of cream. 
 Well oil about a dozen patty-pans, and half fill 
 them with the mixture. Bake in a moderate 
 oven for half an hour. Probable cost. Is. 
 ALMOND QUEEN CAKES. 
 
 Mix a quarter of a pound of fresh butter with 
 half a pound of castor sugar, and beat to a 
 stiff cream; then add three ounces of ground 
 almonds, and one pound of flour containing two 
 teaspooufuls of baking powder. Beat up three 
 eggs, and stir in ; then add a teacupful of milk. 
 Beat for ten minutes; bake in patty pans. 
 
 ALMOND ROCK. . 
 
 Blanch three-quarters of a pound of sweet 
 almonds, and dry them in a slow oven, turning 
 them occasionally, and taking care that they 
 do not burn. Put half a pound of loaf sugar 
 and a quarter of a pint of, water in a small cop- 
 per preserving pan, and boil them together until 
 the syrup is very thick and begins to whiten. 
 Then add a tea-spoonful of lemon juice, and stir 
 constantly over a brisk fire for a, few minutes. 
 Try it constantly by dropping a, little into a 
 basin of cold water, and as soon as it solidifies 
 immediately and snaps between the teeth, lift 
 the pan off the fire and stir in the almonds. 
 Have ready a baking tin very lightly buttered, 
 pour in the almond rock, spread it out evenly, 
 mark it in divisions, and cut up into slabs as 
 soon as it is parlily set. 
 ALMOND SAUCE. 
 
 Blanch and pound two ounces of sweet 
 almonds with a few drops of water. Pour over 
 them, boiling, half a pint of new milk. Mix a 
 tea-spoonful of flour smoothly with a little water 
 and the yolk of one egg.. Stir all together 
 briskly, over a moderate fire, until it froths. 
 Serve with any sweet pudding. Time, ten 
 minutes to boil. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient 
 for a medium-sized pudding. 
 
 ALMOND SOUFFLES 
 
 Mix gradually half a pint of milk with three 
 table-spoonfuls of flour and one ounce and a 
 
 half of butter; stir until it comes to a stiff 
 paste, then add two dessert-spoonfuls of sugar, 
 the beaten yolks of four eggs, two ounces of 
 ground almonds, and lastly the well-whisked 
 whites of the eggs. Mix lightly, then turn into 
 a souffle dish, and bake until of a light brown. 
 Probable cost, Is. 
 
 ALMOND SOUP. 
 
 Take one quart of white stock (see Stock) made 
 either from bones which have been soaked for 
 a few minutes in salt and water to whiten them, 
 or, if preferred, from fresh meat. Boil the 
 liquor with a small piece of mace, five or six 
 cloves, and a piece of stale bread. Take out the 
 spice, and rub the soup through a ^ieve. Blanch 
 and pound six ounces of sweet almonds with the 
 hard-boiled yolk of an egg. Add tfie paste 
 smoothly and slowly to the stock when it is cool. 
 Boil it again, and just before serving the soup 
 add a tea-cupful of milk or cream. Probable 
 cost, if made from bones and with milk. Is. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 ALMOND SPICE BISCUITS. 
 
 Put two pounds of loaf sugar into a saucepan 
 with sufficient water to dissolve it. Have ready 
 two pounds of flour, mixed with two pounds of 
 sweet almonds blapched and pounded, a whole 
 nutmeg grated,, the rind of a lemon finely 
 ctopped, and a tea-spoonful of finely-ground 
 ginger. Pour the hot syrup into this mixture, 
 and make it into a stiff paste. Roll it into a 
 long, thick piece, and bake in a quick oven. 
 When sufficiently cooked, cut it into convenient 
 pieces, which should be placed before the fire 
 for a little while to dry. These biscuits should 
 not be exposed to the air. ' Time to bake, about 
 an hour. Probable coSt, 3s. 6d. 
 
 ALMOND SPONGE-CAKE. 
 
 . Take half a pound of loaf sugar, rub the rind 
 of a lemon on two or three of the lumps, and 
 crush the whqle to powder. Then take five, eggs, 
 separate the whites from the yolks, and beat 
 the latter for some minutes ; then shake in the 
 sugar gradually, and beat together. Stir in six 
 ounces of flour, with about ,twenty drops of 
 essence of almonds. Beat the whites to a solid 
 froth, and add them to the rest. Fill a well- 
 oiled tin about half full, and bake in a quick 
 oven. Time to bake, about an hour. Probable 
 cost. Is. Sufficient for a moderate-sized mould. 
 ALMOND SYRUP (or ORGEAT). 
 
 Blanch and pound three ounces of sweet and 
 four or five; bitter almonds thoroughIy,_ adding 
 a little rose-water to prevent oiling. Add gradu- 
 ally one quart of milk, and water, and sugar to 
 taste- Boil and strain it, when it will be ready 
 for use. It is a nice flavouring for sauces, pud- 
 dings, creams, etc., and also makss a beneficial 
 drink for persons affected with chest-complaints. 
 Time, quarter of an hour. Sufficient for one 
 quart. Probable cost, 9d. 
 ALMOND TARTLETS. 
 
 Put two ounces of butter and two ounces of 
 pounded sugar ipto a basin, and beat them to- 
 gether with a wooden spoon until the mixture 
 becomes smooth and creamy. Add four ounces 
 of pounded almonds, one ounce of crushed rata- 
 fias, and the beaten and strained yolks of two 
 eggs. Whip a table-spoonful of cream to a stiff 
 
ALM 
 
 ALIM 
 
 froth, and mix it thoroughly with all the other 
 ingredients. Butter some patty-pans, line them 
 with paste, put some of the mixture in each, and 
 bake carefully in a moderately quick oven for 
 twenty to thirty minutes. Probable cost. Is. 
 ALMOND TOFFY. 
 
 Boil a pound of sugar, with half a pint of 
 water, until it is brittle. Throw in one ounce 
 and a half of sweet almonds, blanched and cut 
 into halves, with two ounces of butter. It is 
 done when it hardens on a little being put into 
 cold water. Pour out on a well-oiled dish. 
 Time, quarter of an hour. Sufficient for a small 
 dish full. Probable cost, 8d. 
 ALMONDS, CANDIED. 
 
 Blanch some almonds and fry them in butter 
 or oil until tney are nicely browned. Drain and 
 dry them. Boil half a pint of water with half a 
 pound of sugar, and bring it to the candying 
 point — that is, boil until the sugar adheres to 
 the finger and thumb, when a little is taken be- 
 tween them and opened. The finger and thumb 
 must first be dipped in cold water. Pour this, 
 boiling hot, upon the almonds, and keep on stir- 
 ring till cold. Time, half an hour. Probable 
 cost. Is. 6d. per pound. 
 
 ALMONDS, CROQUETTES OF. 
 
 Blanch and pound a quarter of a, pound of 
 sweet and seven or eight bitter almonds with 
 three table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar, the white 
 of an egg, and a glass of sherry or raisin wine. 
 Crumble a quarter of a pound of sponge-cake 
 and add it to the mixture, with the frothed 
 whites of three more eggs. Beat it into a solid 
 paste, and mould it into balls about the 
 size of » small orange. Dip them first into 
 egg, then bread-crumbs, then sugar ; fry them a 
 few minutes in boiling butter or oil ; drain and 
 serve. Time to fry, six minutes. Probable cost, Is. 
 
 ALMONDS, DEVILLED. 
 
 Melt two ounces of butter in a stewpan, 
 sprinkle half a pound of blanched sweet almonds 
 with cayenne pepper and salt, fry them in two 
 ounces of butter till of a rich golden colour; 
 shake them well, and take care not to burn 
 them. Drain on blotting paper. Probable 
 cost. Is. 2d. 
 
 ALMONDS, SALTED. 
 
 Take two ounces of sweet almonds, throw 
 them into boiling water, and let them remain 
 on the fire till the skin can be slipped off easily. 
 Skin them, and dry them in the oven. Make a 
 table-spoonful of oil or butter hot in the frying- 
 pan, and fry the almonds in it till lightly 
 browned. Drain, and dust with fine salt, and 
 toss the almonds until each one is savoured. li 
 preferred, they can be served hot as soon as 
 salted, or they may be set aside until quite cold. 
 Probable cost, 4d. 
 ALMONDS, SUGARED. 
 
 Boil together a syrup made of one pound of 
 sugar and one pint of water. Blanch one pound 
 of sweet almonds, and put them in ; let them 
 boil for some minutes. Take them out and 
 drain them ; let the syrup boil until thick, then 
 return the almonds, and take them out when 
 coated with sugar, which will be in a minute or 
 two. They should be thoroughly dried, and 
 kept in a warm place. Time to boil, ten minutes. 
 
 ALMONDS, TO BLANCH, 
 
 Put some almonds with a little coI3 water 
 upon the fire, and let them remain until the 
 water is hot, but rwl boiling. Drain them and 
 draw the skins off, placing them immediately 
 in cold water, to preserve the colour. 
 
 ALMONDS, TO POUND. 
 
 Almonds pound more easily when they are 
 blanched for two or three days before using, 
 and kept in a warm place. They should be first 
 slightly chopped, then thrown into a mortar, 
 and beaten until they are quite smooth, a few 
 drops of any suitable liquid, such as rose-water, 
 orange-water, white of egg, lemon-juice, or cold 
 water, being added now and then to prevent 
 them oiling. 
 
 ALMOND AND BREAD PUDDING. 
 
 Blanch and pound three ounces of sweet and 
 six or seven bitter almonds, and allow them to 
 simmer gently in half a pint of milk by the side 
 of the fire for a quarter of an hour, to draw out 
 the flavour. Then pour them into four ounces 
 of moderately stale crumbs of bread. Stir in a 
 quarter of a pound of beef suet finely shred, two 
 table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, the same of 
 flour, the finely-minced rind and the juice of a 
 lemon, and two well-beaten eg;gs. Beat the 
 whole thoroughly, and pour it into a well- 
 oiled mould; let it boil without stopping for 
 three hours, and serve with sweet sauce. SufS- 
 cient for four or five persons. Probable cost, lOd. 
 
 ALMOND AND ORANGE ICE. 
 
 Blanch and pound one ounce of sweet almonds 
 with a little orange-flower water to prevent them 
 oiling. Put them into a saucepan with one 
 pint of cream and the yolks of three eggs well 
 beaten. Stir constantly till the egg thickens, 
 then pour it out, let it cool, put it into the 
 freezing-pot, and work the handle jintil it is 
 sufficiently frozen. Put half a pound of loaf 
 sugar and a cupful of w^ater into an enamelled 
 saucepan, with the white of an egg beaten to a 
 stiff froth, and the thin rind of an orange. Put 
 it on the fire and bring it to a syrup, then add 
 to it three-quarters of a pint of orange-juice. 
 Strain this and freeze it like the almond cream. 
 Put a piece of cardboard into the mould, divid- 
 ing it in two. Place the almond ice on one side 
 and the orange ice on the other. Remove the 
 cardboard, close the mould, and let it remain in 
 the ice until wanted. Time, half an hour to 
 freeze. Sufficient for a quart of ice. Probable 
 cost, 4s. 
 
 ALMOND AND RAISIN FUDGING. 
 
 Soak a quarter of a pound of the stale crumb 
 of bread in half a pint of new milk ; add two 
 table-spoonfuls of finely-shred suet, the same of 
 currants washed and picked, a little sugar, the 
 juice and flnely-chopped rind of a lemon, three 
 well-beaten eggs, and a table-spoonful of ale. 
 Well butter a mould or basin. Place raisins in 
 rows round it with four ounces of sweet almonds 
 blanched and split in alternate rows (the butter 
 will make them stick), and pour the mixture in. 
 Put it into boiling water, and allow it to boil 
 for three hours. Turn out and serve with wine 
 sauce. Sufficient for five or six persons. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 
 
ALP 
 
 AME 
 
 ALFHA ROCKS. 
 
 Beat four ounces of butter to a cream, then 
 stir ill three-quarters of a pound of flour, six 
 ounces of loaf sugar, two ounces of sweet al- 
 monds blanched and sliced, and one egg; mix 
 thoroughly, then drop it in spoonfuls on a well- 
 oiled tin, and bake in a moderate oven. Lemon- 
 or citron-peel and currants can be added if 
 approved. Time to bake, about twenty min- 
 utes. Probable cost. Is. 2d. 
 
 AMBER PUDDING. 
 
 Beat half a pound of butter to a cream. Mix 
 with it a quarter of a pound of flour, six table- 
 spoonfuls of bread-crumbs, sugar to taste, the 
 finely-chopped rind of three lemons, a pinch of 
 salt, and three well-beaten eggs. Beat all well 
 together, fill a buttered mould, and boil four 
 hours. Finely-shred suet may be substituted for 
 the butter. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufiicient 
 for five or six persons. 
 
 AMBER PUDDING (another way). 
 
 Shred finely half a pound of beef suet without 
 skin, and dredge a little flour over it to prevent 
 it adhering. Mix it with a quarter of a pound 
 of flour, four ounces of bread-crumbs, two table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar, the grated rind of a lemon, 
 three eggs well beaten, and three table-spoon- 
 fuls of orange marmalade. Beat all well to- 
 gether, put the mixture into a buttered mould, 
 and boil for three hours. Serve with wine sauce^ 
 Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 AMBROSE PUDDING. 
 
 Beat a quarter of a pound of butter to a 
 cream, add to it two table-spoonfuls of pounded 
 sugar, the juice of two lemons, a coffee-cupful 
 of new milk, three well-beaten eggs, and twenty 
 drops of essence of almonds. In another bowl 
 mix two table-spoonfuls of chopped raisins, the 
 same of currants, one ounce each of candied 
 lemon, orange, and citron, three large apples 
 chopped small, two table-spoonfuls of marma- 
 lade, and a pinch of salt. Well butter a mould, 
 place in it a layer out of each bowl alternately, 
 until both are emptied, and bake in a quick 
 oven. This pudding may be eaten either hot or 
 cold. Time, two hours and a half to bake. 
 Probable cost, 2s. Sufiicient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 AMBROSIAL SALAD. 
 
 Take one and one-half cupfuls of cold pota- 
 toes, which have been boiled in clear stock, cut 
 in dice, two and one-haJf cupfuls good, white 
 celery, shredded into small Julienne strips 
 (keep in water acidulated with lemon juice and 
 dry thoroughly on a cloth before using), a few 
 pickled nasturtium seeds and one can of truffles. 
 There are usually five in a can. Select fhe best 
 ones to cut in thin, oblong strips, and the rest 
 shave ,into small, transparent slices. Boil two 
 eggs hard, cut the whites into twelve equal 
 strips, pointed at both ends; put the yolks 
 through a fine strainer. Chop fine two table- 
 jpoonfuls of parsley, wash and thoroughly dry 
 five very small, crisp lettuce hearts. Mix pota- 
 toes, celery, nasturtium seeds, odd-shaped pieces 
 of truffles, and the parsley with a generous 
 supply of highly seasoned French dressing and 
 add the yolks carefully. Hub a salad dish with 
 a cut onion. Arrange the salad in a mound; 
 
 imbed one of the lettuce hearts in the top and 
 radiate from it the white egg slices, alternating 
 with the long truffle strips. Around the base, 
 in the equal spaces between the other lettuce 
 rosettes, place at regular intervals the remain- 
 der of the long pieces of truffles cut in halves. 
 They will look as black as velvet. Probable 
 cost, 2s. 
 
 AMERICAN BISCUITS (or WAFFLES). 
 
 Pour two pints of good milk into separate 
 vessels. In one put a quarter of a pound of 
 butter, cut up and melted with a gentle warmth, 
 and allow it to cool. In the other vessel put 
 eight eggs, beaten up lightly; mix these with 
 the milk gradually. To this add, also gradually, 
 a quarter of a pound of flour, then the milk 
 containing the butter. Stir in a large table- 
 spoonful of strong new yeast, cover the pan, and 
 set it near the fire to rise. When the batter is 
 quite light, take what in America is called a. 
 waffle-iron, in which the batter can be shut in, 
 baked, and turned over. This is greased, some 
 of the batter is poured in, and it is put among 
 the coals of a clear bright fire. The biscuits 
 should be sent to table quite hot, half a dozen 
 on a plate, with a little powdered cinnamon and 
 white sugar. We have heard American ladies 
 complain sadly of being unable to get these 
 delicious biscuits made in England. WafB^e- 
 irons may be obtained at Jewish ironmongers. 
 These biscuits, which are called waffles, only re- 
 quire a few minutes to bake, and the above in- 
 gredients will make sufficient for five or six 
 persons. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 AMERICAN BISCUITS (2). 
 
 Mix together two cupfuls of sifted flour, one 
 level teaspoonful of salt, and one level table- 
 spoonful of baking powder. Work into this 
 mixture two tablespoonfuls of fresh butter, 
 and mix with a knife to a soft dough. Stir 
 in two-thirds of a cupful of skimmed milk. 
 Well flour a pastry board, turn the mixture 
 on to it, and shape it lightly with the hands. 
 It should be kneaded out to about half an inch 
 in thickness. Dip a biscuit-cutter into flour, 
 and cut the dough into shapes, place on a 
 well-floured baking tin, brush the tops with 
 milk, and bake in a hot oven for fifteen 
 minutes. Split the biscuits open, and eat hot 
 with butter between. It will be seen that no 
 waffle-iron is necessary for making the biscuits 
 by this second method. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 AMERICAN BREAKFAST BUNS. 
 
 Take the chill ofi a quarter of a pint of milk, 
 and mix it with the same quantity of fresh 
 yeast; add a quarter of a pound of butter 
 melted, but not hot, sugar to taste, and a couple 
 of eggs well beaten, and then, very gradually, 
 sufficient flour to make a tolerably firm dough. 
 Put it into small tins, well oiling them first; 
 set them before the fire for about twenty 
 minutes to rise, and bake in a quick oven. Do 
 not make the buns too large. Time to bake, 
 twenty minutes. Sufljcieat for a dozen buns. 
 Probable cost, 8d. 
 AMERICAN BREAKFAST (or GftlDbLE) CAKES. 
 
 Whisk two eggs, stir them into a quart of 
 lukewarm milk, and add a tea-spoonful of 
 
AME 
 
 10 
 
 ANC 
 
 baking powder, and a salt-spoonful of salt. Mix 
 with them sufficient Indian meal to make a sfiff 
 batter, and bake them in small round tins 
 which have been oiled or buttered. Bake in a 
 good oven. Time to bake, twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost. Id. each. This will make about 
 two dozen cakes. 
 
 AMERICAN LEMONADE. 
 
 Put into a large tumbler the juice of one 
 lemon, a table-spoonful of icing sugar, a wine- 
 glass of water, and fill up to three parts with 
 shaved or crushed ice. Shake well, fill up with 
 soda water, dash with raspberry or strawberry 
 syrup, and place a slice of lemon and a slice of 
 orange on top. Serve with a straw. A delicious 
 summer drink. Probable cost, 8d. 
 AMERICAN MUFFINS. 
 
 Sift together two breakfast cupfuls of flour, 
 a level teaspoonful of salt, and a level table^ 
 spoonful each of baking powder and castor 
 sugar. Take two small eggs, and beat the 
 yolk and white of each separately, stirring in 
 the yolks one a^t a time. Now add three- 
 quarters of a cupful of milk, and stir in a 
 tablespoonful of melted butter. Butter some 
 gem pans, arid just before pouring in the 
 mixture add the whipped whites. If liked, 
 a cupful of chopped dates may be added, as 
 these make a delicious muffin for afternoon tea. 
 A cupful of currants dusted in flour may be 
 used for another change. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 AMERICAN OVEN. 
 
 This oven is neither so generally known nor so 
 highly appreciated as it deserves to be. In hot 
 weather, when a large fire which would heat an 
 oven or roast a joint is most objectionable, and 
 when the house is unfortunately not fitted 
 with a gas stove, this little article, when once 
 its management is understood, may be used 
 to cook meat and puddings, or even pastry, 
 and will be found to do its work perfectly. 
 It is particularly adapted for those prepara- 
 tions which require to be cooked slowly. A 
 little experience is all that is necessary in 
 using it. The only directions which can be 
 given are that the oven must not be placed 
 close to the fire, but about a foot and a half 
 distant from it ; that the meat should be turned 
 and basted frequently; and that it should be 
 put down in good time, so that it can be cooked 
 slowly. A very small, though clear fire, ia all 
 that is necessary. If these hints are attended 
 to, no difficulty need be experienced in using 
 this convenient and economical apparatus. 
 Probable cost, 9s. to 12s. 
 AMERICAN PANCAKES. 
 
 Mix the yolks of four and the whites of two 
 eggs, with two table-spoonfuls of water. Put in 
 a pinpji of salt, and add gradually six heaped 
 table-spoonfuls of flour ; beat the mixture till it 
 is quite smooth, and then add new milk, suffi- 
 cient to make a thin Jjatter. Put a piece of 
 butter the size of an egg into an oinelet-pan. 
 Let it melt, but not brown. Then j)our in a 
 little of the mixture — enough to thinly cover 
 the pan. Let it stiffen, loosening it round the 
 edges, and shaking it to prevent it sticking. 
 Throw it up to turn the pancake or turn it over 
 gently with a wooden spoon, and when it is 
 
 nicely browned on both sides it is ready. Send 
 to table on one dish, piled one over the other, 
 with pounded cinnamon and sifted sugar over 
 each : cut into quarters, and serve hot. Time, 
 fiv& minutes to try. Probable cost, lOd. Enough 
 for a good-sized dish. 
 
 AMERICAN SANDWICHES. 
 
 Get half a pound of cold boiled ham or tongue, 
 chop it fine, and put it into a basin, with a 
 table-spoonful of chopped pickles, a tea-spoonful 
 of mustard, and a little pepper. Put about six 
 ounces of butter in a basin, and stir it quickly 
 with a spoon till it forms a kind of cream ; add 
 the chopped meat and seasoning, and mix all 
 thoroughly. Cut some bread into thin slices, 
 and some very thin slices of veal, fowl, or game ; 
 spread a slice of the bread with the above mix- 
 ture, then a slice of the meat ; lay on another 
 slice of bread, and so on, till the quantity re- 
 quired is prepared. If cut into small shapes, 
 these sandwiches prove very acceptable for 
 breakfast or for evening parties. The above 
 quantities will make as many sandwiches as will 
 fill a moderate-sized dish. Probable cost, 29. 
 
 AMERICAN TEA PUNCH. 
 
 Put into a bowl a quarter of a pound of pow- 
 dered sugar, one quart of hot tea, half a pint of 
 brandy, half a pint of Jamaica rum, and the 
 juice of one lemon. Put it in the ice-chest to 
 cool, and serve in wine-glasses. Probable cost, 
 3s. 6d. 
 AMERICAN VELVET BREAKFAST CAKES. 
 
 Put a pint of new milk on the fire ; let it sim- 
 mer a few minutes, but do not allow it to boil. 
 Stir into it a piece of butter the size of a walnut. 
 Add a little salt, and three spoonfuls of good 
 yeast, with three well-beaten eggs. Mix with 
 these sufficient flour,, which will be about three 
 pounds, to make a soft dough. Knead all well to- 
 gether, and put the mixture in a basin with a 
 cloth over it, and stand in a warm place for two 
 hours or more. Then make it up into small 
 cakes, lay them quite near each other on a well- 
 oiled tin, and bake in a quick oven. Time, 
 quarter of an hour to bake. Probable cost. Is. 
 This will make about twenty-four cakes, and 
 two are sufficient for each person. 
 AMERICAN WHITE CAKE. 
 
 Beat half a cupful of butter to a cream : work 
 in gradually two and a half cupfuls of flour, a 
 cupful of milk, the whites of six eggs, and, last 
 of all, a tea-spoonful of cream of tartar, and half 
 a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda. Poui' the 
 mixture into a buttered tin, and bake in a quick 
 oven. Directly it is taken out of the oven, brush 
 whisked white of egg over the top, and sift loaf 
 sugar on it. Time to bake, about an hour. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for a quart mould. 
 ANCHOVIES. 
 
 The best anchovies are those which are small 
 and plump. The pickle should be red, and the 
 scales white. They are preserved in brine, 
 and the bottle which contains them should be 
 kept closely covered, as the air soon spoils 
 them. They should be washed in cold water 
 before being used. 
 ANCHOVIES, MSENCE OF. 
 
 Clean and remove the bones from one pound 
 of anchovies, beat them into a pulp, and pass 
 
ANC 
 
 11 
 
 ANC 
 
 the soft portion through a sieve, so as to 
 separate the flesh from any small bones,, etc. 
 Put those parts of the pulp that will not pass 
 through the sieve into a pan with the bones, and 
 simmer them, with the liquor in which they have 
 been pickled, a blade of mace, a little cayenne 
 pepper, a heaped tea-spoonful of salt, and a pint 
 of water, for twenty minutes, and strain. Now 
 add the soft portion of the anchovies that passed 
 through the sieve. Boil all together at a moder- 
 ate heat for a few minutes. Then take the 
 vessel from the fire, and add a quarter of. a pint 
 of strong vinegar. Essence of anchovies should 
 be kept in small bottles, with the corks covered 
 with bladder, and sealed to render them air- 
 tight. Probable cost, 4s. 
 
 ANCHOVIES, ESSENCE OF (another way)., 
 
 Remove the bones from three anchovies, and 
 beat them into a paste with four green chillies, 
 or a small quantity of cayenne pepper, and two 
 shallots. Then mix them with a quarter of a 
 pint of walnut ketchup, and half a pint of 
 mushroom ketchup, and preserve the essence in 
 well-closed bottles. Time, half an hour to prepare. 
 Sufficient for one pint bottle. Probable cost, 2s. 
 ANCHOVIES, ESSENCE OF, MOCK. 
 
 Boil a quart of old ale for a quarter of an 
 hour, let it stand till it is cold; take five Dutch 
 pickled herrings, with their liquor (removing the 
 heads and roes), pound or mince them finely, and 
 put them into the ale, with a stick of horse- 
 radish scraped ; boil the liquid for twenty min- 
 utes, then strain it. Hold a clean frying-pan 
 over the fire, that it may be quite dry; put in a 
 quarter of a pound of flour ; keep stirring it with 
 a wooden spoon, till it is of a reddish brown 
 colour ; put the liquor to it, and stir till it boils ; 
 when cold, bottle it. If not of sufficient colour, 
 put a little lobster coral or cochineal to it. 
 Probable cost. Is. 4d. Sufficient ior two or 
 three persons. 
 
 ANCHOVIES, FRIED. 
 
 Wash a dozen anchovies and dry them well, 
 cut off the heads, open them, and remove the 
 backbone without breaking the fish. This can 
 be easily done with the fingers. Dip them 
 in a light batter, and fry them in boiling 
 oil, or lard, until they are slightly browned. 
 If preferred, they may be soaked for three- 
 quarters of an hour in a little milk, and floured 
 before frying. Time to fry, five minutes. 
 Probable cost. Is. 4d. Sufficient for two or 
 three persons. 
 ANCHOVIES ON TOAST. 
 
 Make two or three slices of very; crisp toast 
 of moderate thickness. Butter while hot, and 
 cut into six or eight fingers, which should all 
 be of equal size. Lay an anchovy on each, 
 sprinkle with pepper, and put them in the oven 
 to become very hot, but take care not to let 
 them become hard and dry. Serve quietly. If 
 a gas-cooker is used they can be placed under 
 the toaster for two or three minutes, instead 
 of in tie oven. Probable cost, one penny each. 
 ANCHOVIES, POTTED. 
 
 Potted anchovies are made in the same way as 
 anchovy paste, spices and cayenne being added 
 .to the former. The air should be carefully ex- 
 cluded, or they will soon loise their colour. 
 
 ANCHOVIES, SIMPLE METHOD OF SERVING 
 
 Wash the anchovies lightly, and dry them in a 
 soft cloth, being careful to handle them gently 
 while doing this. Open them, and remove the 
 backbone without injuring the fish. Arrange 
 them neatly on a dish, garnish with the white of 
 egg and a little finely chopped parsley; cover 
 them with oil, and serve. Probable cost. Is. 
 for a half-pint bottle. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 ANCHOVIES, TO FILLET. 
 
 Wash the anchovies; cut off the heads and 
 fins, scrape the skin, and split them open with 
 the fingers and thumbs; remove the backbone, 
 and cut each fillet, or side, in two. They may 
 be seasoned with cayenne, and used for sand- 
 wiches. Time to soak, four hours. Probable 
 cost. Is., for a half-pint bottle. Sufficient for 
 three or four persons. 
 ANCHOVY AND CAPER SAUCE. 
 
 Take a piece of butter ^he size of an egg ; melt 
 it in a saucepan; stir into it. with a wooden 
 spoon, half a teacupful of flour; then add a 
 quarter of a pint of water. When boiling, add 
 two anchovies boned and chopped small, with a 
 dessert-spoonful of bruised capers. A little 
 lemon-juice is an improvement. Time, ten 
 minutes. Sufficient for a small dish of fish. 
 Probable cost, 6d. • 
 
 ANCHOVY BUTTER. 
 
 Take six pickled anchovies, cut off their heads, 
 wash and bone them; then pound them with 
 sufficient butter to make a paste, and add a little 
 scalded and chopped parsley. If a pestle and 
 mortar should not be at hand, the anchovies 
 may be made into a paste and mixed with the 
 butter with a broad knife on a piece of board. 
 This butter is very useful to flavour many 
 sauces, especially -thoge that aj'e used for beef 
 steaks. Average cost for a half-pint jar. Is. 8d. 
 Time, half an hour. 
 ANCHOVY BUTTER SAUCE. 
 
 Add to half a pint of good brown sauce, or 
 sauce Jtls-pagnple, a piece of anchovy butter half 
 the size of an egg, and also some lemon- juice to 
 conceal the salt taste produced by the butter. 
 Mix thoroughly and serve. 
 ANCHOVY EGGS. 
 
 Boil four eggs hard ; when quite cold, shell 
 them, and cut a little piece off each end so that 
 they will stand. Cut them in halves crosswise 
 and remove the yolks, which should be pounded, 
 together with a tablcspoonf ul of. anchovy paste 
 and a sprinkling of cayenne. Refill each half 
 egg with the mixture, and stand them on small 
 squares of toast, freshly buttered and not too 
 thin. Serve cold, garnished with parsley or 
 small cress. Probable cost, 8d. 
 ANCHOVY KETCHUP. 
 
 Put half a gallon of mild ale into a saucepan 
 with half a pound of anchovies, three blades of 
 mace, one tea-spoonful of sifted sugar, a little 
 whole ginger, six small onions, a couple of 
 cloves, and twenty black peppercorns. Let all 
 boil up once, then draw them from the fire, and 
 allow them to simmer slowly for three-quarters 
 of an hour. Strain through a fine hair sieve, and 
 stir into the strained liquid two table-spoonfuls 
 of mushroom ketchup. When it is Quite cold. 
 
ANC 
 
 12 
 
 ANG 
 
 bottle it, and cork it securely. Probable cost, 
 Is. 6d. per quart. Sufficient for two quart bottles. 
 ANCHOVY OLIVES. 
 
 Boil an egg for ten minutes, then take the 
 yolk and mix it thoroughly with a tea-spoonful 
 of anchovy paste. Stone six or seven Spanish 
 olives, and fill them with the mixture. Pre- 
 pare two slices of buttered toast as for ancho- 
 vies, but cut into small squares. Put an olive 
 on each, make very hot, and serve. 
 ANCHOVY OMELET. 
 
 Take half a dozen salted anchovies; wash 
 them lightly in cold water to remove a little of 
 the salt taste, and fillet the fish. The fillets of 
 anchovy, bottled in oil, sold at Italian ware- 
 houses, answer perfectly. Fry thin slices of 
 bread, cut them into small squares, and on each 
 square lay a little piece of anchovy. Beat up, 
 rather more than for an ordinary omelet, a dozen 
 eggs; season with pepper and salt. V/ith half 
 the quantity make a laiige, flat, thin omelet, like 
 a pancake. Do not turn it, but lay it on a hot 
 dish. Over its surface distribute the pieces of 
 fried bread and anchovy. With the remainder 
 of the eggs make another omelette like the first. 
 Lay it over the other with the browned side 
 uppermost. Set it a few minutes before the fire, 
 or in a gentle oven, to make the two surfaces 
 adhere, and serve tvith any savoury sauce that 
 suits the taste. Time to fry, five minutes for 
 each omelet. Sufficient for six persons. Prob- 
 able cost, 2s. 
 ANCHOVY PASTE. 
 
 Take a dozen anchovies, scrape them clean, 
 raise the flesh from the bones, and pound them 
 most thoroughly in a mortar; then press them 
 through a fine sieve. Add about two ounces of 
 butter melted, but not hot. The less butter used 
 the strongf-r will be the flavour of the anchovies. 
 Time, about half an hour. Probable cost. Is. 
 Sufficient for a small jar. 
 ANCHOVY POWDER. 
 
 Pound some anchovies in a mortar. Rub 
 them through a hair sieve, and make them into 
 a paste with dried and sifted flour. Eoll them 
 into cakes, then toast them before the fire, and 
 rub them to powder. If the flavour is liked, 
 grated lemon-rind and cayenne may be added 
 after the cakes are baked. Put the powder in a 
 bottle, cork it closely, and it will keep for years. 
 It is useful for flavouring purposes, and makes a 
 nice relish when sprinkled over sandwiches or 
 toast. Time to prepare, about an hour. Prob- 
 able cost, Is. for a half-pint bottle. A dessert- 
 spoonful of powder will flavour half a pint of 
 sauce. 
 ANCHOVY SALAD. 
 
 Wash six anchovies in water, remove the 
 bones and the insides, and also the heads, flns, 
 and tails. Put them on a dish with two large 
 lettuces cut small, half a dozen young onions, a 
 salt-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a sliced 
 lemon. Pour over them the juice of a lemon 
 mixed with salad-oil, and send to table. Time 
 to prepare, ten minutes. Probable cost, 6d. 
 Sufficient for a small dish. 
 ANCHOVY SAUCE. 
 
 Take six anchovies, cut off their heads, and 
 ■wash them well, then let them boil gently in a 
 
 quarter of n pint of water until they are dis- 
 solved. Strain the liquid, and add to it a pint 
 of melted butter, cayenne and nutmeg to taste, 
 and two table-spoonfuls of port wine. Serve 
 with the fish. The sauce should be poured over 
 boiled fish and round fried fish. Time to boil, 
 half an hour. Sufficient for a large-sized dish 
 of fish. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the wine. 
 ANCHOVY SAUCE (another way). 
 
 A quick and easy way of making anchovy 
 sauce is to stir two or three spoonfuls of pre- 
 pared essence of anchovv, which may be bought 
 at any grocer's, into a pint of melted butter. 
 Let the sauce boil, and flavour with lemon-juice. 
 Time, ten minutes to boil. Probable cost, 4d. 
 Sufficient, two tea-spoonfuls to a pint. 
 ANCHOVY SAUCE FOR BEEF. 
 
 Wash four anchovies lightly and dry them 
 well, then remove the bones, and cut the flesh 
 into small pieces. Dredge some flour thickly 
 over these, and fry them in a little butter over 
 a gentle fire for five or six minutes. Pour half 
 a pint of stock broth over them, and salt and 
 pepper if required, and an inch or two of cu- 
 cumber cut into dice. Simmer the sauce gently, 
 and before sendinjf to table stir into it a tea- 
 spoonful of bruised capers. Time to simmer, 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. 
 ANCHOVY SAUCE FOR SALMON. 
 
 Incorporate with a pint of boiling melted but- 
 ter a couple of tea-spoonfuls of essence of an- 
 chovies, and add cayenne and lemon-juice to suit 
 the taste. Anchovies boned and pounded in a 
 mortar may be substituted for essence of ancho- 
 vies. Time, ten minutes. Probable ~ cost, 6d. 
 Sufficient, two tea-spoonfuls of the essence to 
 a pint of sauce. 
 ANCHOVY TOAST, 
 
 Prepare the toast as for anchovies on toast. 
 Spread each finger with anchovy paste, sprinkle 
 with pepper, or finish with a little made mus- 
 tard if preferred. Make very hot, and serve. 
 ANGEL PUDDING. 
 
 Beat two ounces of butter to a cream, with 
 two ounces of powdered sugar; stir in two 
 ounces of flour, the yolks of two eggs, half a 
 pint of new milk, and lastly the whites of the 
 eggs beaten stiff. Pour the mixture in some 
 buttered patty-pans, and bake in a quick oven 
 a quarter of an hour. Sprinkle with sifted 
 sugar, and serve on a napkin. Lemon should 
 be handed round with them. Probable cost. Is. 
 ANGELICA, CANDIED. 
 
 Take the plant in April: boil it in salt and 
 water until it is tender. Eemove and drain it 
 well, scrape the outside, and dry it in a clean 
 cloth. Place it in a syrup, and allow it to remain 
 there for three or four days, closely covered. 
 The syrup must be made from the same weight 
 of sugar that there is of fruit, allowing half a 
 pint of water to a pound of sugar, and must be 
 boiled twice a day, and poured over the fruit 
 until it is nearly all absorbed; after which it 
 should be rut into a pie-dish, and placed near 
 the fire. Time to make, about ten days. 
 ANGELICA RATAFIA. 
 
 A very rich, fine cordial, made by putting half 
 a pound of the shoots of the above plant into 
 
ANG 
 
 13 
 
 APP 
 
 two quarts of brandy, with a pint of water, two 
 pounds of sugar, a few cloves, and a little cinna- 
 mon. The angelica must infuse for two months 
 in a close vessel before it is strained and bottled. 
 Probable 'Cost, . per pint, 3d., exclusive of the 
 brandy. 
 
 ANGELICA TART. 
 
 Pare and core some golden pippins ;. then take 
 an equal quantity of the stalks of angelica, peel 
 them, and cut them into small pieces. Boil the 
 apples in water enough to cover them, with 
 lemon peel and fine sugar. Do them gently, till 
 they produce a thin syrup, and then strain it off. 
 Put it on the fire, together with the angelica, 
 and let both boil ten minutes. Make a puff- 
 paste, lay it at the bottom of the tin, then a 
 layer of apple and one of angelica, till full. 
 Pour in the syrup, put on the cover, and bake 
 moderately. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 
 ANGELS ON HORSEBACK. 
 
 Cut some little round pieces of bread about 
 a quarter of an inch thick, and two inches in 
 diameter. Fry them in clarified butter to a 
 golden brown, then spread over them a thin 
 coating of anchovy paste, and on this place a 
 little slice of crisply fried bacon. On the bacon 
 put a bearded oyster which has been simply 
 warmed in the oven between two plates with a 
 little butter and its liquor, and seasoned with 
 a tiny dust of nutmeg. Then sprinkle over the 
 top a little chopped parsley, and dish the crusts 
 up in a row. Pour the oyster liquor round 
 them, and serve for a savoury or a breakfast 
 dish. Probable cost, 3d. each. 
 
 ANISEED CORDIALui 
 
 To one pint of plain sugar syrup add one pint 
 of good brandy and thirty drops of aniseed 
 syrup; shake well. Use as a cordial either 
 mixed with water or not, as required. 
 
 APPLE, THE. 
 
 The apple is a British fruit, and may be eaten 
 raw, or cooked in various ways. The best for 
 eating are: the Blenheim Orange, Eibstone, 
 Margaret, Golden and other Pippins, Nonpareil 
 Eussets, Pearmains, Kentish Codlins, and Dow- 
 tons. . As a rule the rough-rinded apples are the 
 best for eating, while those of smooth exterior 
 are most suitable for preparation. For cooking 
 the most preferable are : the Wellingtons, Col- 
 villes. Rennets, Pearmains, and Russets; while 
 both for eating and for baking purposes the 
 American Pippins occupy a high place. 
 
 APPLE AND BLACKBERRY JAM. 
 
 {See, Blackbeeet and Apple Jam.) 
 
 APPLE BATTER PUDDING. 
 
 Put into a bowl half a pound of flour and" a 
 little salt, and stir very gradually into it half a 
 pint of milk. Beat it until quite sinooth, then 
 add three eggs. Well butter a pie-dish, and 
 pour about half the batter into it. Place it in a 
 quick oven, and bake it until quite firm. Nearly 
 fill the dish with apples, pared, cored, and 
 sliced, and slightly stewed with a little sugar, 
 and lemon-rind, or any other flavouring. Pour 
 the rest of the batter in, and replace in the 
 oven. Time to bake, one hour and a half. Suffi- 
 cient for six persons. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 APPLE BIRDS' NESTS. 
 
 Choose six large apples, the same size, peel 
 and remove the cores, place them apart in a 
 large pie-dish. Put in each apple a clove and as 
 much sifted sugar as it will hold. Put in the 
 pie-dish two tea-cupfuls of water, the juice and 
 peel of one lemon, and some more sugar. Put 
 it in a slow oven with a dish over. As each 
 apple is done put it in the glass in which it is to 
 be served, the hollow-side uppermost. Strain 
 the juice into a stew-pan, add half an ounce of 
 soaked gelatine to it, and more sugar if not 
 sweet enough. Simmer until dissolved, colour 
 with cochineal, strain into a jug, let it cool, then 
 pour round the apples. When set, fill each apple 
 with apricot jam, and cover with whipped 
 cream. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 APPLE BLACK CAPS. 
 
 Take a few firm, juicy apples, pare them, and 
 take out the cores without breaking the apples. 
 -Fill the hollow of each with some pounded sugar 
 and one or two cloves. Place them in a shallow 
 dish with a little sweet wine, sugar to taste, and 
 a little lemon-rind, a few cloves, or any flavour- 
 ing that may be preferred. Let them stew 
 slowly in the oven until the apples are soft 
 throughout, but do not let them break, and 
 when they are sufficiently done, heat the tops 
 with a salamander, to make them look black. 
 They may be served hot or cold, and will keep 
 some days. Time, about half an hour to bake. 
 One wiU suffice for each person. 
 
 APPLE BUTTER, AMERICAN. 
 
 Pill a preserving-pan with apples peeled, 
 quartered, and cored. Add a slight flavouring 
 of cloves, allspice, and cinnamon. Cover with 
 good cider, and boil slowly, stirring from time 
 to time with a wooden spoon, until the whole 
 becomes a dark brown jam, with only juice suffi- 
 cient to keep it soft and buttery. Remove it 
 from the fire, and place in well-covered jars, and 
 in a few weeks it will be ready for use. It 
 makes an excellent substitute for butter, and is 
 very wholesome for children. Time to prepare, 
 five or six hours. Probable cost pfer pint, lOd. 
 
 APPLE CAKES. 
 
 Take two pounds of apples, pare, core, and 
 quarter them. Stew them gently with one pound 
 of sugar, the juice and finely-chopped rind of a 
 lemon, a table-spoonful of butter, and half a 
 nutmeg grated. Beat these ingredients thor- 
 oughly together, and drop them in small rounds 
 upon a sheet of well-oiled paper. Place them 
 in a cool oven, and bake them until they are 
 firm, which will take about a quarter of an 
 hour. Theyshould be kept in a tin box. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 
 
 APPLE CAKE PUDDING. 
 
 Take three pounds of finely-flavoured baking 
 apples, and boil them to a pulp with the rind of 
 two lemons, a cupful of water, and eight ounces 
 of sugar. Beat them well, and mix with them 
 gradually, six good-sized potatoes, boiled and 
 crushed quite small. Then add three or four 
 well-whisked eggs, pour into a buttered mould, 
 and boil quickly. Serve with sweet sauce. Time 
 to boil, one hour and a half. Sufficient for six 
 persons. Probable cost. Is. 2d. 
 
AFP 
 
 14 
 
 APP 
 
 APPLE CALF'S-FOOT JELLY. 
 
 Take four pounds of good cooking apples, core 
 them, and stew them gently, with the thin rind 
 of two Ismons, in a, quart of water, until they 
 are reduced to a pulp. Then strain the liquid 
 through a jelly-bag once or twice, until it is 
 quite clear. When cool, place it in a saucepan 
 with three pints of strong calf's-foot stock, the 
 
 APPLE CALP'S-FOOT JELLY. 
 
 juice of the lemons, sugar to taste, and the 
 shells and beaten whites of four eggs. Bring it 
 quickly to a boil, and allow it to simmer for a 
 quarter of an hour, bfiing careful not to stir it. 
 Draw it ffom the fire, and let it stand for 
 another quarter of an hour. Strain it two or 
 three times through », "jelly-bag, until perfectly 
 clear. Pour into moulds, and let it stand until 
 next day. Time to stew the apples, about an 
 hour. Sufficient for two quart moulds. Prob- 
 able cost, 2s. per quart. 
 
 APPLE CHARLOTTE. 
 
 Pare, core, and slice three pounds of good 
 cooking apples, and stew them gently to a pulp, 
 with a little sugar and the thinly-chopped rind 
 of two lemons. Well butter a mould, and place 
 at the bottom and round it thin slices of stale 
 bread dipped in melted butter, and fill with the 
 apple. Let the pieces of bread overlap each 
 other, or the apple will escape. Lay a thin 
 slice of bread the shape of the mould over the 
 top, cover it with a plate, and place a weight on 
 it, and bake in a quick oven. Turn it out, and 
 serve hot, with sifted sugar. Time to bake, 
 one hour. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for a 
 pint mould. 
 APPLE CHARLOTTE (another way). 
 
 Well butter a pie-dish, then place in it in al- 
 ternate layers: first bread and butter, without 
 the crust, then apples cored, pared, and, sliced, 
 a little sugar, and the juice and thinly-chopped 
 rind of lerQon, and repeat until the dish is full. 
 Clover with the peel of the apples, and bake in a 
 brisk oven. Turn out, and serve with sifted 
 sugar. Time to bake^ one hour. A medium- 
 sized dishful will serve four persons. Probable 
 cost, 8d. 
 APPLE CHARTREUSE. 
 
 Boil gently a cupful of the best rice and a 
 little finely-grated lemon-rind in a quart of milk, 
 until the rice is tender and the milk absorbed in 
 it; add sugar to taste. Then take ei^ht or ten 
 apples, and core without breaking them : put 
 them in a dish with a little raspberry or red 
 currant jam in each hollow, and place the rice 
 between the apples until the dish is full. Brush 
 the whole over with the white of an egg, and 
 sift a little sugar over it. Bake in a quick oven. 
 
 Time to bake, one hour. Sufficient for six per- 
 sons. Probable cost, ls> 
 
 APPLE CHEESE AND CREAM. 
 
 Stew to a thick pulp two pounds of apples, 
 one pound of sugar, a little chopped lemon-rind, 
 and half a pint of water. Put it into a mould, 
 and when stiff, turn it out, and pour round it a 
 little custard made of two cupfuls of new milk, 
 the- rind of a lemon, the yolk of an egg, and a 
 tea-spoonful of ground rice, mixed togetner, and 
 boiled for a few minutes. Time to boil, five 
 minutes. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 APPLE CHEESECAKES. 
 
 'Pare and core half a pound of apples, and 
 stew them with half a pound of sugar, the finely- 
 chopped rind of a lemon, and a tea-cupfulof 
 water. Melt three ounces of butter; take five 
 eggs, leave out the whites of two, beat them 
 well, and mix all thoroughly together. Bake for 
 a quarter of an hour in patty-pans lined with 
 puff paste. Allow one cake for each person. 
 Probable cost. Is., without the puff paste. 
 APPLE CHUTNEY. 
 
 Peel and core twenty-five large green apples, 
 and slice them in long thin strips, throwing 
 them into cold water as soon as cut. Take an 
 enamelled pan and boil them in one pint and a 
 half of vinegar, without any water, till quite 
 soft ; let them stand till quite cold, then turn 
 them into a large basin, and cover them with 
 one pound of Salt, crushed fine, one pound of 
 laisins, picked and stoned, half a pound of 
 white mustard seed, husked, ' half a pound of 
 blanched almonds, sliced, half a pound of pow- 
 dered chillies, one pound of green ginger, 
 poun'ded, and half a pound of garlic, pounded, 
 in layers. Make four pounds of preserving 
 sugar into a thick syrup by boiling with half a 
 pint of vinegar. Pour the boiling syrup over 
 the apples and other ingredients, and lastly add 
 one pint of vinegar. Stir all well together with 
 a wooden spoon; bottle, and cork when ' cold. 
 Let it stand five or six weeks before using. 
 Probable cost, 8d. per bottle. 
 APPLE CREAM. 
 
 Peel throe pounds of apples, remove the cores, 
 and cut them in thin slices. Put them.into a 
 saucepan with half a pound of crushed sugar, 
 the rind of a lemon finely shred, half an ounce 
 of ground ginger, and four table-spoonfuls of 
 red wine. Let thein simmer until they are soft 
 enough to press through a sieve,'then put them 
 in a dish, and allow them to cool. Boil a quart 
 of cream or new milk, with some nutmeg, and 
 add the apples to it; beating all thoroughly to- 
 gether. Time to simmer, about half an hour. 
 Probable cost. Is. 2d., if made with milk. Suffi- 
 cient for eight persons. 
 APPLE CREAM (another way). 
 
 Boil six or seven large apples, with a little 
 cinnamon, to a pulp, -Bith sufficient sugar to 
 sweeten them; the quantity of sugar must be 
 regulated by the acidity of the apples. When 
 cold, add to them the well-whisked whites of 
 three eggs. Beat all together until they are 
 nicely frothed; then serve, heaped on a dish. 
 Time to beat, a quarter of an hour. Probable 
 cost, 8d. Sufficient for a small side-dish. 
 
APP 
 
 15 
 
 APP 
 
 APPLE CREAMED TART. 
 
 Make au ordinary apple tart, flavoured and 
 sweetened. When baked, cut out the middle of 
 the top, leaving merely a border all round. Let 
 the apple become quite cold, and then pour a 
 nicely-flavoured custard over it, and strew on 
 the top a littie pink sugar. Time, three-quar- 
 ters of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Suffi- 
 cient for half a dozen persons. 
 appIle custard. 
 
 Take four pounds of finely-flavoured apples, 
 and stew them' gently, till tender, with a pint 
 and a half of water, one pbund of sugar, and a 
 little cinnamon. Strain the liquid, and stir into 
 it, very gradually, eight well-beaten eggs. Put 
 the mixture into a saucepan, and stir it until it 
 thickens, which will be in about ten minutes. 
 Pour into custard-glassea, and cover with sifted 
 sugar. Probable cost. Is. '6d. Sufficieit for 
 nine or ten glasses. 
 
 APPLE CUSTARD PUDDING. 
 
 Take a dozen finely-flavoured apples, peel, 
 core, and boil them with the rind of two lemons, 
 half a nound of sugar, and a cupful of water, 
 until they will pass through a sieve. Let them 
 get cold ; then add to them a little butter, and 
 the whites of four eggs well whisked. Beat all 
 together until the mixture is smooth and firm. 
 Turn into a well-buttered dish, and bake in a 
 quick oven. Sift a little sugar over them. 
 They are nice either hot or cold. Time to bake, 
 about half an hour. Suflicient for six persons. 
 Probable cost. Is. 
 
 APPLE DUMPLINGS. 
 
 Shred as finely as possible from six to eight 
 ounces of suet; mix with it a piuph of salt, one 
 pound of flour, a small spoonful of baking-pow- 
 der, and enough cold water to make it into a 
 stiff paste. Use a fork in mixing. Roll it out, 
 and line a well-buttered basin with it. Pill the 
 basin with apples, pared, cored, and sjjced ; add 
 a little sugar, one or two cloves, and a little 
 water. Cover it with the paste, an,d pinch it all 
 round. Tie it in a well-floured cloth, and boil 
 for two hours and a half. As Boon as it is- turned 
 out of the basin, cut a little hole in the top, or 
 the steam will make the pastry heavy, serve 
 with sweet sauce. Sufficient for six persons. 
 Probable cost. Is. 
 
 APPLE DUMPLINGS (another way). 
 
 Take as many apples as you wish to make 
 dumplings, allowing one dumpling for each 
 person. Pare ■ them, and scoop the core out 
 without breaking them. Into each cavity put 
 a clove, a little piece of butter, and as much 
 sugar as will fill it. Cover each apple separately 
 with a little piece of suet paste, tie in a floured 
 cloth, and boil. Before serving, put a little 
 piece of butter and sugar into each dumpling. 
 Loosely-knitted cloths are very nice for pud- 
 dings ; they are most easily washed, and ;. pro- 
 duce a pretty effect. Boil half an hour. Prob- 
 able cost, 2d. each dumpling. 
 
 APPLE DUMPLINGS, BAKED. 
 
 For a change, apple dumplings may be baked 
 instead of boiled. They are made exactly in the 
 same way as the preceding, but instead of being 
 tied in a cloth and boiled, they are placed upon 
 a buttered tin, and put into a moderate oven. 
 
 Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour. Prob- 
 able cost, 2d. each. 
 
 APPLE FLUMMERY. 
 
 Pare, core, and slice two pounds of apples, 
 and' put them into a stewpaii with one pound of 
 sugar, the finely-chopped rind of a lemon, and 
 sufficient water to cover them. Let them stew 
 gently until quite tender, then drain them from 
 the juice, and' beat them to a pulp. Soak an 
 ounce of gelatine in a little cold water for 
 twenty minutes. Put it into a saucepan with 
 the apple-juice, and stir until the gelatine is dis- 
 solved : add the apples and a cupful of cream. 
 Stir for a few minutes over the firej liut do not 
 let the mixture boil. Turn it into a mould that 
 has been soaked in cold water, let it stand until 
 stiff, then turn out, and pour a, good custard 
 qver.it. Time to stiffen, eight or ten hours. 
 Probable cost. Is. lOd., exclusive of the custard. 
 Sufficient for six persons. 
 APPLE! FOOL. 
 
 Take two pounds of apples pared and cored. 
 Put them into a saucepan with a cupful of 
 water, one or two cloves, and sugar to taste. 
 Let them simmer till quite soft, and beat them 
 well with » wopden spoon. Mix with them, 
 gradually, a pint of new milk, or milk and 
 cream, boiled and allowed ;to become cold, sweet- 
 ened and fiavoured. Time to simmer the apples, 
 about half an hour. Probable cost, made with 
 milk, 8d. Sufficient for four .persons. 
 APPLE FRITTERS. 
 
 Make a smooth, stiff batter of half a pound of 
 flour, a little salt, one' table-spoonful of clarified 
 butter, three well-beaten eggs, about a quarter 
 of a. pint of milk, and a table-spoonful of beer: 
 the latter may be omitted. Pare and scoop out 
 the cores of a few large apples ; slice theni in 
 rounds . about half an" inch thick ; strew sugar 
 thickly over theni, and let them remain for two 
 hours. Then throw them into the bafter ; take 
 each piece out separately, and fry it in plenty 
 of boiling lard or oil. When the^ are nicely 
 browned on both sides, lay them on a piece of 
 blotting-paper to absorb the grease; then heap 
 them up on a hot dish, and serve with sugar. 
 Time, eight minutes to fry. Probable cost, lOd. 
 Sufficient for four persons. 
 APPLE FRITTERS, RICH. 
 
 Take a pint of hot cream, two glasses of port 
 wine, and a cupful of ale ; mix ■well, and when 
 cold, add the yolks of four eggs and the whites 
 of two, all whisked : a little salt, ginger, and 
 nutmeg are an improvenient. Let the apples; 
 prepared as in the preceding recipe, soak in wine 
 and' sugar for two or three hours before using. 
 Throw them into the batter, drain, and fry them 
 in boiling oil or lard. When they are tender, 
 place them on blotting-paper for two or three 
 minutes, and pile them m a pyramid on a hot 
 dish. They should be dry enough to be eaten 
 ■ypith the fingers. Time to fry, eight minutes. 
 Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. Probable 
 cost, 2s., exclusive of the wine and ale. 
 
 APPLE GATEAU. 
 
 Boil one pound of loaf sugar in half a pint of 
 water till it makes a rich syrup. Peel, core, and 
 slice very thinly two pounds of Nonpareil, or any 
 other nicely-flavoured apples which will pulp 
 
APP 
 
 16 
 
 APP 
 
 easily. Boil iu the syrup with the rind and juice 
 of a lemon until stiff. Pour the mixture into a 
 mould, and the following day turn it out and 
 serve with custard. Time, about two hours. 
 Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 APPLE GINGER. 
 
 Boil gently together a quarter of a pound of 
 whole ginger bruised, three pounds of sugar, a 
 pint and a half of water, and the juice of three 
 lemons. Bring it to the boiling point, then put 
 in three pounds of apples, weighed after they 
 have been pared and cored. Simmer them gently, 
 and let them remain until the apples have be- 
 come clear, but be careful that they are not 
 broken. They must be kept in a covered jar in 
 a dry place, and will keep good for some time. 
 Time, three-quarters of an hour, to boil the 
 apples. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient for 
 nine or ten persons. 
 APPLE GINGER (another way). 
 
 Imitation of Pbeseeved Gikgee. — Take four 
 pounds of apples, weighed after they have been 
 pared and cored, and cut them into quarters ; 
 make a syrup of two pounds of sugar boiled in 
 one pint of water, and pour it over the fruit. 
 Let the apples stand in this two days ; then add 
 four pounds of loaf sugar, and the chopped rind 
 and juice of three lemons. Put into a muslin 
 bag two ounces of bruised ginger, and half a 
 tea-spoonful of cayenne. Let all simmer until 
 the fruit is soft, but not broken, and the juice 
 clear ; add a glass of gin. Time to simmer, 
 about an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Suffi- 
 cient for four one-pound jars. 
 APPLE HEDGEHOG. 
 
 Take two dozen large apples, pared and cored : 
 boil them to a smooth jam, sweetened and 
 flavoured with essence of almonds. Pare one 
 dozen and a half more, scoop out the cores, and 
 boil them in sugar and water until tender. Take 
 them gently out of the saucepan, and fill the 
 hollow in the middle of each with any bright- 
 coloured jam, and arrange them on a dish, in 
 two or three layers, as nearly as possible in the 
 form of a hedgehog. Fill the empty space with 
 the jam, and make all smooth. Cover the whole 
 with sugar icing, and stick almonds blanched 
 and split thickly over it. Place the dish in 
 a good oven, to make the apples hot and brown 
 the almonds. Time to simmer, about half an 
 hour. Sufficient for eight persons. Probable 
 cost, 2s. 6d. 
 APPLE HEDGEHOG, ICED. 
 
 Dissolve in a well-lined saucepan eight ounces 
 of good sugar with half a pint of water, and 
 stew in the syrup until tender a dozen or more 
 good-sized apples, pared and cored. Drain them 
 from the sugar, and pile them on a dish to re- 
 semble the form of a hedgehog. Slice eighteen 
 or twenty good boiling apples, keep tliem over 
 a very slow fire until they are a smooth, dry 
 pulp, then fill in with it, so as to make an even 
 surface, all the spaces between the apples, as 
 well as the hollows from which the cores were 
 taken. Spread it evenly all over with the back of 
 a spoon. Make an icing with the whites of three 
 *ggs, and three heaped tea-spoonfuls of white 
 sugar. Of this lay on a thick coating, which 
 must again be covered with sifted sugar. Cut 
 
 half a pound of blanched almonds iu the usual 
 spiked form, and fix them thickly over the 
 hedgehog. Bake to give the almonds a little 
 colour, and warm the apj^les through in a moder- 
 ately hot oven. Time, twenty to thirty min- 
 utes to stew apples. Probable cost, 2s. Sufi- 
 cient for five or six persons. 
 
 APPLE JAM. 
 
 Pare, core, and slice four pounds of good 
 baking apples : put them iu a saucepan with 
 three pounds of sifted sugar, and tue grated 
 rind and juice of four lemons. Stew gently, 
 stirring constantly until the jam is firm and 
 smooth. Put it into covered jars, and keep it 
 in a dry place. It is a good plan to lay the 
 apples and other ingredients in layers in a stone 
 jar, and place the jar in the oven in the middle 
 of a tin full of water, which is to be replenished 
 as it boils away, until the fruit is tender. Then 
 pour it into a preserving-pan, and boil for 
 twenty minutes. Time to stew, three or four 
 hours. Probable cost. Is. lOd. One pound of 
 apples will make about one pound of jam. 
 APPLE JAM (another way). 
 
 Pare, core, and slice three pounds of apples. 
 Place them in a preserving-pan with a little cin- 
 namon, two or three cloves, the juice of two 
 lemons, two and a half pounds of sugar, and 
 just enough water to keep them from burning. 
 Stir them continually with a wooden spoon, 
 until they are reduced to pulp. Pour this into 
 jars, and cover closely. It will not keep so well 
 as jam made by the preceding recipe, but it is 
 more quickly made. Time to boil, three-quarters 
 of an hour. Probable cost, Isj 8d. Allow one 
 pound of fruit for a one-pound jar. 
 
 APPLE JELLY. . 
 
 Pare, core, and slice three pounds of apples. 
 Put them into a stewpan with a, tea-cupful of 
 water. When reduced to a pulp, put them into 
 a jelly-bag and let them drain all night; they 
 must not be squeezed. Next morning put the 
 juice into a saucepan, being careful not to put 
 any sediment with it, adding a pound of sugar 
 to a pint of juice, and a few drops of the essence 
 of Vanilla. Boil it until it will stiffen when 
 cold; cover the jars as soon as possible. The 
 pulp may be made into jam. Time to boil with 
 the sugar, about twenty minutes. Probable 
 cost. Is. 
 
 APPLE JUICE FOR JELLY. 
 
 Peel, core, and weigh four pounds of finely- 
 flavoured cooking appfes : put them into a stew- 
 pan with three pints of water, and let them sim- 
 mer gently until they are broken. Strain the 
 juice from them, and boil it again, with half a 
 pound of sugar to each pint of juice. This juice 
 is very nice to use in preserving other fruits. 
 Time to boil with the sugar, five minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, Is. Sufficient for three or four pints. 
 APPLE MANGE. 
 
 Reduce to a pulp a dozen fine apples, and 
 sweeten and flavour according to taste. When 
 quite cold, pour it into a glass dish, and cover 
 it with whipped cream, which will be much 
 firmer if made the day before it is wanted. 
 Time to simmer the apples, forty minutes. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable 
 cost, 23. 3d., with a. pint of cream. 
 
APP 
 
 17 
 
 APP 
 
 APPLE MARMALADE. 
 
 Pare, core, and slice four pounds of apples, 
 and place them in a saucepan with sufficient 
 water to cover them barely. Boil them until 
 quite pulpy, then pass them through a sieve. 
 Put a pound of sugar and a, little cinnamon to 
 a pint of pulp, and boil once more, stirring 
 constantly, for half an hour or more. Place the 
 marmalade in jars, and cover them as soon as 
 possible. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for 
 five or six one-pound jars. 
 APPLE MINCEMEAT. 
 
 Stew a pound of beef until very tender, mince 
 it as small as possible ; add two pounds of 
 apples, one pound of finely-shredded suet, two 
 pounds of currants, half a pound of stoned rais- 
 ins, and three-quarters of a pound of sugar. The 
 apples, raisins, and suet should all be minced 
 separately. Mix these ingredients veil to- 
 gether, with one nutmeg grated, a little mace, 
 the gravy in which the meat was stewed, a whole 
 lemon chopped, one glass of brandy, and two 
 glasses of port wine. Keep it in covered jars. 
 Time to prepare, about an hour. Probable cost, 
 3s. 6d., without the brandy and wine. Suffi- 
 cient to make six pounds of mincemeat. 
 APPLE MOULD. 
 
 Pare, core, and slice two pounds of golden 
 pippins. Put them into a saucepan with a 
 pint of water, one pound of sugar, and one 
 ounce of isinglass. Let all boil gently together 
 until the apples are quite soft. Then beat them 
 well, until quite smooth, with a few drops of 
 ■Vanilla flavouring. Oil a mould, lay the apple 
 smoothly into it, and let it stand in a cold 
 place. Serve with whipped cream. Time to 
 simmer, half an hour. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. Probable cost. Is. lOd., exclusive of 
 the cream. 
 APPLE PANCAKES. 
 
 Make a good stiff batter with four table- 
 spoonfuls of flour, a little sugar, three eggs, 
 lialf a pint of milk, a little powdered cinnamon, 
 and a pinch of salt. Chop six moderate-sized 
 apples very small, mix them with the batter, 
 and fry the pancakes in the usual way. They 
 will require great care in turning. Time to 
 fry, ten minutes. Probable cost. Is. Suffi- 
 cient for a moderate-sized dish. Serve one for 
 each person. 
 APPLE PASTY (or TURNOVER). 
 
 Make a short crust with half a pound of 
 flour, two ounces of butter, two ounces of lard, 
 and a little salt. Eub the butter thoroughly 
 into the flour, mix it with very little water, and 
 roll it out thin on the pastry-board. Stamp out 
 with a small cup-plate as many rounds as you 
 wish to make pasties. Moisten the inside of 
 the round; lay stewed apples, sweetened and 
 flavoured, on one half, and lift the other half 
 right over it. Press the edges, and bake in a 
 quick oven. A plain and very nice crust may 
 be made with good beef dripping and a little 
 baking-powder. ' Time to bake, a quarter of an 
 hour. This will make a dozen pasties. Serve 
 one or two for each person. Probable cost. 
 Id. each. 
 APPLE PIE, 
 
 Make a good light crust; wet the edge of the 
 pie-dish, and lay a thin strip all round. Pare, 
 C 
 
 core, and slice the apples, and lay thein in the 
 dish with a little sugar and any flavouring that 
 may be preferred — such as powdered ginger, 
 two or three cloves, grated lemon^rind, with the 
 juice of the lemon, a little cinnamon, etc. Lay 
 a crust over the top, and ornament with pastry 
 cut into leaves. If the apples are dry, the par- 
 ings and cores may be boiled with a little sugar 
 and flavouring and the strained juice added to 
 the fruit. Bake the pie in a quick oven. It 
 may be served hot or cold. A little custard or 
 cream is an improvement. Time, three-quarters 
 of an hour to bake. Probable cost, lOd. for a 
 pie, suflicient for five persons. 
 APPLE PLUM PUDDING. 
 
 Shred finely six ounces of beef suet ; add to it 
 a pinch of salt, half a pound of finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs, four ounces of sugar, half a pound 
 of raisins, half a pound of currants, half a pound 
 of chopped apples, two table-spoonfuls of dried 
 flour, two ounces of chopped candied peel, and 
 half a tea^spoonful of mixed spice. Mix the 
 dry ingredients thoroughly, then beat four eggs 
 in a wine-glassful of brandy, stir well together, 
 pour into a well-oiled mould, or tie up in a well- 
 floured pudding-cloth, and boil four hours. 
 Serve with brandy sauce. Time to boil, four 
 hours. Sufficient for six persons. Probable 
 cost. Is. 8d., without the brandy. 
 APPLE PUDDING, BAKED. 
 
 Pare, quarter, and core three pounds of good 
 baking apples: put them in a saucepan with 
 six ounces of sugar and half a cupful of water, 
 and the rind and juice of a lemon. Boil them 
 gently until they are quite soft. Turn them 
 out of the saucepan, and put them aside to cool. 
 Butter the inside of a shallow pie-dish, and line 
 it throughout with good ordinary pie-crust. Add 
 to the apple pulp two or three well-beaten eggs, 
 and put the mixture into the dish. Make the 
 top smooth, and grate a little nutmeg over it. 
 Bake in a quick oven. This pudding may be 
 served either hot or cold. Time to bake, three- 
 quarters of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 Sufficient for six persons. 
 APPLE PUDDING, BAKED (another way). 
 
 Line a baking-dish with pufi' paste, and cover 
 the bottom with sliced pippins, which should be 
 peeled and cored. Mix together the crumb of 
 a French roll and a pint of thick cream ; add 
 eight eggs well beaten, three or four ounces of 
 sugar, nutmeg, and the same weight of candied 
 peel (orange) cut into small pieces. Spread this 
 mixture over the pippins and bake. Serve with 
 sifted sugar over the top. Bake in a moderate 
 oven. Time, three-quarters of an hour to bake. 
 Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for seven or 
 eight persons. 
 APPLE PUDDING, BAKED (another wayV 
 
 Put a dozen apples into a saucepan with 
 enough water to keep them from burning, a. 
 piece of butter, a little powdered cinnamon, 
 and sugar according to taste. Let them simmer 
 , gently until they fall, then beat them well. 
 Place them in the middle of a pie-dish, and pour 
 round and over them a good thick arrowroot 
 custard. Put into a quick oven, and bake until 
 brown. Time to brown, twenty minutes. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
APP 
 
 18 
 
 APP 
 
 APPLE PUDDING, BAKED, RICH. 
 
 Line a pie-dish with good short crust. Stew 
 four pounds of apples, and when hot, add a 
 quarter of a pound of butter. Let them stand 
 aside to cool, then add a cupful of cream, four 
 well-beaten eggs, sugar to taste, grated lemon- 
 rind, and grated nutmeg. Stir all well to- 
 gether, then place the mixture in the pie-dish, 
 and bake in a good oven. Serve with Devon- 
 shire cream, or custard. Time, half an hour to 
 bake. Sufficient for six persona. Probable 
 cost, 3s. 
 APPLE PUDDING, BOILED. 
 
 Make a light batter with two eggs, four 
 heaped table-spoonfuls of flour, a little salt, and 
 a large breakfast-cupful of milk. ■ Beat it well, 
 then stir into it a few apples' pared, cored, and 
 sliced. Put all together into a well-oiled mould, 
 tie it in a floured cloth, and boil for an hour 
 and a half. Serve with sweet sauce. Probable 
 cost, 8d. Sufficient for six persons. 
 APPLE PUDDING, NOTTINGHAM. 
 
 Pare half a dozen good baking apples, re- 
 move the cores without dividing the fruit, and 
 in their places put two or three cloves and a 
 little sugar. Place these in a buttered^pie-dish, 
 pour over them a light batter, and bake in a 
 moderately hot oven. Time to bake, two hours. 
 Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 APPLE PUDDINGS (ALEXANDRA'S). 
 
 Pare, core, and quarter half a dozen finely- 
 flavoured apples. Place them in a saucepan 
 with a table-spoonful of water, the thin rind of 
 half a lemon chopped small, and two table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar. Simmer gently until re- 
 duced to a pulp ; then stir in, while hot, a piece 
 of butter the size of an egg, and when cold add 
 two eggs well beaten, a breakfast-cupful of 
 finely-grated bread-crumbs, half a cupful of 
 milk or cream, and a little grated nutmeg. Mix 
 thoroughly, then pour into little cups previ- 
 ously oiled, and bake for twenty minutes in a 
 moderate oven. Tiirn them out, and serve with 
 sifted sugar. Probable cost, lOd. 
 APPLE PUDDINGS (MOTHER'S). 
 
 Roll out two pounds of crust of good suet or 
 dripping (see Cextst Suet poe Puddings), and let 
 it be thicker in the middle than at the edges. 
 Pill it with layers consisting of four table- 
 spoonfuls of sliced apples, one tea-spoonful of 
 finely-shred suet, and one table-spoonful of cur- 
 rants. When full, fold it over, tie it in a well- 
 floured cloth, boil, and serve with sweet sauce. 
 Time to boil, two hours.. Sufficient for six per- 
 sons. Probable cost. Is. 
 APPLE PUFFS. 
 
 Stew some apples with lemon-juice and sugar 
 until they become a dry jam. Make a light 
 sweet crust ; stamp it out in small rounds, with 
 an inner round marked, but not cut quite 
 through. Bake them in a quick oven, take a 
 little of the pastry out of the middle, and put 
 the apples in its place. Time to bake, a quarter 
 of an hour. Sufficient, "one for each person. 
 Probable cost, Id. each. 
 APPLE PUNCH. 
 
 Put into a bowl an apple sliced, half a lemon 
 sliced, and a table-spoonful of icing sugar. Add 
 
 a bottle of claret, cover, and let it stand for 
 three hours; tnen strain, and put in a small 
 lump of ice. Serve in claret glasses. 
 
 APPLE PUPTON. 
 
 Prepare one pint of apple marmalade {see 
 Apple Marmalade), and mix with it the yolks of 
 five eggs, a handful of bread-crumbs, and a piece 
 of butter the size of an egg. Three ounces of 
 stewed pears or cherries make an agreeable ad- 
 dition. Pour the mixture into a well-oiled 
 mould, and bake it in a slow oven. Time to 
 bake, an hour and a half. Sufficient for six 
 persons. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 APPLE ROLLS. 
 
 Chop a few apples very fine, and sweeten them 
 with sugar. Lay three or four table-spoonfuls 
 of this in the middle of a circular or oval piece 
 of paste, rolled out a quarter of an inch thick. 
 Fold it in two, lengthwise ; unite the edges, and 
 press or scallop them with the bowl of a tea- 
 spoon. Lay the rolls on a baking-tin that has 
 been previously greased, and put it into a 
 moderate oven. It is a good plan to use apple 
 marmalade instead of chopped apples, as then 
 there is no fear of the fruit not being sufficiently 
 cooked. Time to bake, half an hour. Suffi- 
 cient, one roll for two persons. Probable cost, 
 2d. each. 
 APPLE ROLY-POLY. 
 
 Shred very finely six ounces of beef suet, and 
 mix with one pound of flour. Make into a paste 
 with half a pint of water. Roll it out about 
 the third of an inch thick, and eight or ten 
 inches wide. Spread over, rather thickly, three 
 pounds- of apples boiled to a pulp and sweet- 
 ened and flavoured. Leave half an inch of the 
 edges untouched with fruit. Roll round, fasten 
 the ends securely, tie the pudding in a floured 
 cloth, and boil. Serve with sweet sauce. Time 
 to boil, one hour and a half. Probable cost. Is. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 APPLE SAUCE, BAKED. 
 
 Apple sauce may be made by placing the 
 apples and the water in the oven in a closely- 
 covered jar until they are reduced to a 
 pulp, and then beating them as in the next 
 recipe. 
 
 APPLE SAUCE FOR ROAST GOOSE. 
 
 Pare, core, and slice four or five large apples; 
 place them in a saucepan with only just enough 
 water to keep them from burnings Let them 
 simmer gently, stirring frequently, over a slow 
 fire, until they are reduced to ,pulp. Turn them 
 into a bowl, and beat them well, with one tea- 
 spoonful of sugar, the squeeze of a. lemon, and 
 a small piece of butter. Time, half an hour to 
 simmer. Sufficient for a small goose. Probable 
 cost, 4d. 
 
 APPLE SNOW. 
 
 Reduce half a dozen apples to a pulp, press 
 them through a sieve, sweeten and flavour them. 
 Take the whites of six eggs, whisk them for 
 some minutes, and strew into them two table- 
 spoonfuls of sifted sugar. Beat the pulp to a 
 froth, then mix the two together, and whisk 
 them until they look like stiff snow. Pile high 
 in rough pieces on a glass dish, stick a sprig of 
 myrtle in the middle, and garnish with small 
 
APP 
 
 19 
 
 APP 
 
 pieces of bright-coloured jelly. Time to beat 
 Jhe snow, three-quarters of an hour. Probable 
 
 APPLE SNOW. 
 
 cost. Is. 4d. Sufficient for a medium-sized glass 
 dish. 
 
 APPLE SNOW WITH SPONGE CAKE. 
 
 Put four or five slices of sponge-cake into a 
 glass dish, and pour over them first two table- 
 spoonfuls of sherry and then a cupful of cream. 
 Place in a saucepan five or six finely-flavoured 
 apples peeled and cored, with a little water, 
 sugar, grated lemon-rind, and lemon-juice. Ee- 
 duce them to a pulp, press the pulp through a 
 sieve, and beat it with the whiteis of six eggs 
 until it is white and frothy. Heap it over the 
 cakes as high as possible, and serve immediately. 
 Time to beat, about an hour. Probable cost, 
 2«. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 APPLE SNOWBALLS. 
 
 Take half a dozen large apples. Pare and core 
 them without breaking them, and place in the 
 hollow of each a spoonful of sugar, a piece of 
 butter the size of a small nut, and either a pinch 
 of powdered cinnamon, a little grated lemon- 
 rind, some nutmeg grated, or a clove. Boil a 
 cupful of rice with a little milk till it is half 
 
 APPLE SNOWBALLS. 
 
 cooked. Put each apple into a separate cloth 
 with a portion of rice sufficient to cover it all 
 round. Spread the rice out, tie it firmly round 
 the apple, plun|;e the balls into boiling water, 
 and let them boil gently till done enough. Turn 
 them upon a dish,- sift powdered white sugar 
 thickly over them, and serve. If liked, a little 
 s^yeet sauce can be served with these puddings. 
 Time to boil, three-quarters of an hour or more, 
 according to the quality of the apple. Prob- 
 able cost, lOd. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 APPLE SOLID. 
 
 Melt a heaped table-spoonful of isinglass in 
 a little water. Take half a pint of nicely- 
 
 flavoured apple-pulp, mix it well with half a 
 pint of cream, then add the dissolved isinglass 
 and sugar to sweeten it agreeably. Let it stand 
 till nearly cold ; add a glass of wine or a table- 
 spoonful of brandy, pour into a buttered mould, 
 and keep it in a cool place until the next day. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, 
 2s. 6d., exclusive of the brandy. 
 APPLE souffle'. 
 
 Reduce half a dozen apples to a pulp, sweeten 
 and flavour them nicely, and place them in the 
 middle of a large dish. When cool, pour over 
 them a good custard, made with half a pint of 
 cream, the yolks of four eggs, sugar, and 
 flavouring. Whisk the whites to a solid froth, 
 place it in rock-like pieces over the custard, 
 and sift a dessert-spoonful of white sugar over 
 it. Put it in the oven till the icing is lightly 
 browned, and serve cold. Probable cost, Is. lOd. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 APPLE SOUP, GERMAN. 
 
 Peel half a dozen large fresh apples, cut oufc 
 tha cores, and boil them thoroughly with three 
 pints of water, a thick slice of the crumb of 
 bread finely grated, the rind and juice of half a 
 lemon, and a quarter of an ounce of powdered' 
 cinnamon. When cooked to a pulp, rub them 
 through a sieve. Add two glasses of white wine,, 
 and sweeten to taste. Serye with toasted bread. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. Time, one 
 hour. Probable cost, 7d., exclusive of the wine. 
 APPLE SQUARES. 
 
 Make a short crust (see Paste, Short), cut 
 out twice as many squares a,s you wish to make 
 pasties. Moisten the inside of each square; 
 lay stewed apples, sweetened and flavoured, on 
 one half, and place another right over it. Press 
 the edges together, so that the juice shall not 
 run away, and then bake in a quick oven for 
 a quarter of an hour. 
 APPLE SUGAR. 
 
 Boil a pint of apple- juice (see Apple- Jtjice) 
 with two pounds of loaf sugar, until it becomes 
 brittle as soon as it is dropped in cold water. 
 Then pour on a well-oiled dish, draw it out into- 
 twisted sticks : dry them, and keep them in a 
 tin box. Time to boil, about twenty minutes^ 
 Probable cost. Is. per pound. 
 APPLE (SWISS) PUDDING. 
 
 Butter a deep pie-dish. Fill it with alter- 
 nate layers of apples sliced, sweetened, and 
 flavoured, and rusks which have been soaked in 
 milk and beaten with a fork. Let the rusks be 
 at the top and the bottom. Pour melted butter 
 over the whole, and bake until nicely browned. 
 Serve with sifted sugar. Time to bake, forty 
 minutes. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. 
 APPLE TANSY. 
 
 Pare and core six or eight large apples, cut 
 them into thin, round slices, and fry them in 
 butter. Then beat up three eggs in a pilit of 
 cream, and pour this upon the apples. Time 
 to fry the apples, five minutes. Probable cost. 
 Is. 8d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 APPLE TART OR CAKE. 
 
 Line a shallow pie-dish with good puff paste. 
 Make a mixture consisting of two pounds of 
 apples pared, cored, and chopped, the peel of 
 
APP 
 
 20 
 
 APP 
 
 two lemons grated, a piece of butter tEe siie of 
 a large egg, four egga well beaten, and a cup- 
 ful of cream or new milk, and sugar according 
 to taste. Mix these ingredients tlioroughly. 
 Put them on the paste, leaving a narrow rim all 
 round. Blanch a few almonds, cut them into 
 long strips, place them over the top of the 
 apples, and bake in a quick oven. Care should 
 be taken that the almonds are not too much 
 baked. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Suffi- 
 cient for three medium-sized dishes. Probable 
 cost^ 2s. 6d. 
 
 APPLE TART, ECONOMICAL. 
 
 Take three-quarters of a pound of flour : mix 
 with it a tea-spoonful of baking powder, and a 
 little salt ; rub well in six ounces of clarified 
 beef dripping, and make it into a paste with 
 cold water. Roll it out two or three times. 
 Line the edge of a pie-dish with a little paste 
 about a quarter of an inch thick. Wet it all 
 round to make the cover adhere. Pare, core, 
 and quarter a dozen apples. Put them into the 
 dish with a little moist sugar, a couple of cloves, 
 and a table-spoonful of water. Cover it over 
 with paste. Trim it nicely round the edges. 
 Make a hole in the middle for the steam to 
 escape, and bake in a good oven. Time to bake, 
 one hour. Sufficient for six persons. Probable 
 cost, lOd. 
 
 APPLE TART, OPEN. 
 
 Line a shallow tart-dish with puff paste. 
 Spread over it snLoothly apple-pulp flavoured 
 and sweetened, about half an inch in thickness. 
 
 OPEN TAET. 
 
 Cut strips of pastry, twist them, and lay them 
 in cross-bars over the tart. Bake in a good 
 oven. Time to bake, about half an hour. Suffi- 
 cient for four or five persons. Probable cost, 
 8d. for a small tart. 
 
 APPLE TART, PLAIN. 
 
 Line the edge of a tart-dish with good short 
 crust, fill it with apples pared, cored, and quar- 
 tered, and a little lemon-juice and sugar strewn 
 over. A little water may be added if the apples 
 are not juicy. Cover it with paste and bake in 
 a good oven. Time to bake, nearly an hour. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable 
 cost. Is. 
 
 APPLE TART, RICH. ^ 
 
 Line a tart-dish with puff paste. Rub the 
 apples well before paring them, then put the 
 skins and cores into a saucepan, with the rind 
 and juice of a lemon, one clove, some fine sugar, 
 and enough water to cover them. While they 
 are simmering, fill the dish with apples sliced. 
 Pour the strained liquid over the apples, cover 
 with the puff paste, and bake. Serve with 
 cream or good custard. Time to bake, nearly 
 an hour. Probable cost, Is. 4d. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 
 APPLE TRIFLE. 
 
 Take eight or nine fine apples. Stew them 
 gently to a pulp, adding sugar according to 
 taste, and flavouring with grated lemon-rind or 
 cinnamon. When cold, place in a glass dish, 
 and pour over them a good cold custard, made 
 of the yolks of three eggs, one pint of milk, a 
 little sugar, and a little sherry, simmered gently 
 together and allowed to cool. Then take a pint 
 of thick cream, warm it a little while over the 
 fire with a little sugar, and another small glass 
 of sherry. When cold, whisk it into froth, and 
 as the froth rises, place it on a sieve to drain, 
 and after it has stood some time (for no whip 
 is solid that has not stood some hours), place it 
 on the apple and custard in a rough, rocky form, 
 and ornament with pink sugar, etc. Time for 
 the whipped cream to stand, twelve hours. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 6d., exclusive of the sherry. 
 Sufficient for a moderate-sized dish. 
 
 APPLE WATER. 
 
 Rub well three large apples to make them 
 perfectly clean. Slice them, pour a quart of 
 boiling water on them ; let it stand some time, 
 then strain it, and boil it up with the juice of 
 half a lemon and a little sugar. Time to boil, 
 five or six minutes. Sufficient for a quart of the 
 liquid. Probable cost, 4d. 
 
 APPLE WATER (another way). 
 
 Pare, core, and quarter five or six tart apples. 
 Place them in a saucepan with a quart of water, 
 the peel of half a lemon, four ounces of cur- 
 rants, and a little sugar. Let all simmer slowly 
 together. Strain, cool, add a little white wine, 
 and the apple-water is ready for use. This is a 
 pleasant drink for hot weather. Time to sim- 
 mer, one hour and a half. Sufficient for a pint 
 and a half of the liquid. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 APPLE WATER, ICED. 
 
 Boil six large juicy apples cored and quar- 
 tered, until they can be pulped through a sieve, 
 when add to the strained juice a quart of lemon- 
 water, and freeze in the usual way. The pre- 
 serving-pan containing the apples should he 
 placed far enough from the fire to prevent them 
 from being burnt or losing their nice colour. 
 Time to freeze the liquid, about twenty-five, 
 minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for 
 three pints. 
 
 APPLES {k I'Adeline). 
 
 Peel and core six large apples without slicing 
 them. Cook them gently in the oven in a 
 covered pie-dish with a little water till tender. 
 Let them get cold, then dip them into a mixture 
 made of two table-spoonfuls of flour, two of 
 castor sugar, and half a tea-spoonful of pow- 
 dered cinnamon. Beat up an egg, brush each 
 apple over with it, then roll the apple up in 
 fine cake crumbs, and fry to a golden colour in 
 boiling fat. Drain on paper. Fill in the middle 
 of each apple with a little jam, and put a little 
 whipped cream on top. Serve cold wfth any 
 nice fruit syrup. Cost, about Is. 6d. for six 
 persons. 
 
 APPLES (a la Cherbourg). 
 
 Choose firm but good boiling apples. Pare 
 them, and cut them into bricks. Put a pound 
 of sugar, the thickly-peeled rind of two lemons, 
 
APP 
 
 21 
 
 APP 
 
 and a little ginger, to every pound of apples, 
 and cover tliem closely for some hours. Then 
 place them in a preserving-pan, being careful 
 not to break the apples, and put to them half a 
 cupful of cider. Let them boil until the apples 
 look quite clear, then remove them one by one 
 to a dish. When cold, place them in cross piles, 
 and crown the whole with the lemon-peel. Pour 
 the syrup round, and eat with Devonshire 
 cream. Time to boil, about twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost of apples cooked this way, lOd. 
 per pound. 
 APPLES (a la Marie). 
 
 Pare some large, firm apples, and scoop out 
 the core without dividing them. Pill the 
 cavity with cream or custard. Cover each apple 
 
 APPLES (A LA marie). 
 
 with a little short crust, with a sort of knot or 
 bow at the top, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 Serve with sifted sugar. Time to bake, half an 
 hour. Sufficient, one for each person. Prob- 
 able cost, 2d. each. 
 
 APPLES (k la Portugaise). 
 
 Peel and core, without dividing, half a dozen 
 large baking apples. Put into a stewpan a cup- 
 ful of sugar "and a cupful of water, place it on 
 the fire, and when the scum rises, put the 
 apples in, and let them simmer very gently 
 until they are tender throughout. Lay them in 
 a glass dish, colour the syrup with a few drops 
 of prepared cochineal, and pour it round them, 
 and lay on the top of each apple a spoonful of 
 bright-coloured jam. Time to boil the apples, 
 twenty minutes or more. Probable cost, 9d. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 APPLES, BAKED. 
 
 Pare some good apples, and scoop out the 
 cores. Put a. little sugar and two cloves into 
 each hollow, place them in a dish, not allowing 
 them to touch each other, strew powdered sugar 
 over them, and a little sweet wine with some 
 thin lemon-rind in it. Cover the dish, and bake 
 in a slow oven. Time to bake, three-quarters of 
 an hour. Sufficient, one apple for each person. 
 Probable cost. Id. each. 
 
 APPLES, BAKED (another way). 
 
 Take eight or nine good baking apples : wipe 
 them carefully, and place them in a shallow 
 earthenware dish, half an inch apart. Put them 
 in a gentle oven, cook them as slowly as pos- 
 sible, and do not allow them to burst. When 
 quite tender, set them aside to cool, and serve 
 with sifted sugar. Time to bake, three-quar- 
 ters of an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Allow one 
 for each person. 
 
 APPLES (BAKED) FOR CHILDREN. 
 
 Take a large earthen jar, and fill it to within 
 three inches of the top with well-wiped apples 
 of any sort in the house. Neither peel them nor 
 remove the stalks. Pour over them, so as to 
 
 cover them completely, a mixture of treacle or 
 brown sugar and water. If the apples are wind- 
 falls, you may allow a little extra sweetening. 
 Put with them some pieces of orange or lemon- 
 peel, and a few cloves. Cover the jar; leave it 
 for three or four hours in a cool oven. If the 
 oven is too hot, the liquid will boil over or 
 evaporate, and the apples be dried up or burnt. 
 Probable cost. Id. each. Allow one or two for 
 each person. 
 
 APPLES, BUTTERED. 
 
 Pare and core without breaking a dozen gol- 
 den pippins. Cut pieces of bread in rounds 
 large enough for an apple to stand upon, and 
 place them in a well-buttered dish with an apple 
 upon each. Pill the holes with butter and 
 sugar. Bake them in a gentle oven until ten- 
 der, then put them upon a hot dish with a little 
 apricot jam on the top of each, and cover with 
 sifted sugar. Time to bake, thirty minutes. 
 Probable cost, lOd. Allow one for each person. 
 
 APPLES, COMPOTE OF. 
 
 Put half a pound of sugar into a pan with a 
 pint of water and the rind and juice of two 
 lemons. Let it remain on the fire until the 
 scum rises, then put in half a dozen large apples, 
 pared, cored, and quartered. Let them simmer 
 gently, leaving the lid off the saucepan, until 
 the apples are clear. Time to boil, about twenty 
 minutes. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for six 
 persons. 
 
 APPLES, COMPOTE OF, BAKED. 
 
 Pare a dozen golden pippins, or any other 
 finely-fiavoured apples, and core them without 
 breaking them. Place them in a deep dish with 
 
 COMPOTE OF APPLES. 
 
 a cupful of water, a pound of sugar, and a few 
 drops of the essence of vanilla or lemon. Cover 
 the dish, and place it in a moderate oven until 
 the apples are cooked through. Take them out, 
 place them in a glass dish, and serve with cus- 
 tard or cream. Time to bake, three-quarters of 
 an hour. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for six 
 persons. 
 
 APPLES, FROSTED. 
 
 Take enough apples — pippins will be beat for 
 the purpose — to fill a dessert-dish. Simmer them 
 gently in a pan of cold water, with a small piece 
 of alum, and a few vine-leaves between and over 
 them. When the skins can be easily pulled off 
 with the fingers remove them, and have ready 
 some clarified butter in which to dip each one 
 as it is peeled. Strew with crushed white sugar, 
 and bake in a slow oven. The sugar, if care- 
 fully done, will sparkle as if frosted. When 
 quite cold place them on a glass dish, piling 
 them high. They should simmer about ten 
 minutes. Probable cost, Is. 6d. per dozen. 
 
APP 
 
 22 
 
 APP 
 
 APPLES IN PASTRY. 
 
 Peel and core two pounds of apples. Put 
 tliem into a pint of cold water with two pounds 
 of loaf sugar, a little cinnamon, the juice of a 
 small lemon, and a little butter. Boil to a pulp. 
 Well oil a pie-dish : line it with good pastry 
 about half an inch thick, and bake it in a quick 
 oven. Place the apple pulp inside, pour cus- 
 tard over it, and ornament with alternate dots 
 of red jelly and white of egg. Lift the pastry 
 out of the dish before serving. Time to bake 
 the pastry, twenty minutes. Sufficient for five 
 persons. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 
 APPLES, MIROTON OF. 
 
 Pare, core, and slice half a dozen finely- 
 flavoured apples. Place them in a stewpan with 
 very little water, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, 
 and some powdered cinnamon, and let them 
 simmer very gently until reduced to a pulp ; lay 
 this smoothly in a dish. Then boil seven or 
 eight lumps of sugar with a tea-cupful of water 
 and the thinly-gyrated rind of two lemons : add a 
 lump of butter the size of an egg, a spoonful of 
 flour, another of brandy, the yolto of three eggs, 
 and the white of one. Mix these well over the 
 fire until quite smooth; pour over the apples; 
 then whisk to a stiff froth the remaining whites 
 of the eggs. When the custard is cold, pile the 
 ■«gg whites upon it, sift a dessert-spoonful of 
 ..sugar on the top, and set the dish in the V)ven 
 till the surface is lightly browned. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 
 APPLES, PRESERVED. 
 
 Pare, co/e, and chop small three pounds of 
 good cooking apples. Have ready some thick 
 boiling syrup, made of three pounds of sugar 
 and a pint of water. Throw in the apples, with 
 the chopped rind of three lemons ana one ounce 
 of whole ginger. Let it simm,er gently until the 
 apples look clear. Time to simmer, about half 
 an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 
 half a dozen jars of moderate size. 
 
 APPLES, PRESERVED, FOR WINTER USE. 
 
 When it is desired to preserve apples for use 
 in winter, the fruit should not be allowed to 
 remain too long on the trees, as there is a 
 "danger of its being blown down when it becomes 
 ■quite ripe, and then it is not good for keeping. 
 Apples, and indeed all fruit intended for keep- 
 ing, should be hand-picked. The best way to 
 remove them from the tree is to cut them off 
 with a pair of strong pruning scissors, and to 
 handle the fruit as lightly as possible. If prac- 
 ticable, the apples should be gathered in fine, 
 •dry weather. They should then be wiped 
 thoroughly dry, and every one which appears in 
 the slightest degree unsound rejected. In stor- 
 ing apples, they should be placed in a dark, dry 
 place in single rows upon clean straw, with 
 straw placed between each row, so that they are 
 not allowed to touch each other; each layer 
 must be treated in a similar way. They should 
 be looked over frequently, and any that may 
 have become unsound removed. Apples may be 
 also stored in boxes or jars, care being taken in 
 packing the fruit that it is not bruised or in- 
 jured, and that every apple is quite sound. The 
 air must be excluded from the cases as much as 
 possible. 
 
 APPLES, RED HOT. 
 
 Take a quantity of Keswick codlingjs, pared, 
 cored, and cut in quarters. Stew them in a little 
 water, but not so long as to allow them to be- 
 come pulp. Sweeten amply with pounded loaf 
 sugar, and flavour to taste, with cayenne 
 pepper; colour with cochineal. 
 
 APPLES (RED) WITH JELLY. 
 
 Take half a dozen very fine apples. Pare and 
 core without dividing them, andT put them in a 
 saucepan with a pint of water, the rind of a 
 lemon, and half a pound of loaf sugar. Place 
 them on the fire and stew them very gently until 
 the apples are quite tender, then lift them out 
 and lay them in a glass dish. Boil the sugar 
 and water with a little melted isinglass to make 
 it set, then strain it, and add a. few drops of 
 prepared cochineal, and put it aside. When it 
 is quite cold, lay it in rock-like pieces among 
 the apples, and garnish the dish with sprigs of 
 myrtle, the white of egg beaten to a froth, 
 etc., etc. Time to simmer the apples, about 
 three-quarters of an hour. - This forms a very 
 pretty supper dish. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 APPLES (SOUFFLE OF) IN RICE. 
 
 Put into a saucepan a quart of new milk, a 
 cupful of rice, the rind of half a, lemon, a piece 
 of butter the size of a nut, and sugar to taste. 
 Let it simmer very gently until the milk is 
 absorbed and the rice quite tender. Beat it well 
 for four or five minutes; brush the edges of a 
 good-sized dish with white of egg to make the 
 rice adhere, then lay it round in a border about 
 four inches wide. Take a breakfast-cupful of 
 apple jam, and mix with it a piece of butter, 
 melted, the size of an egg, and the well-beaten 
 yolks of three eggs. Stir this over the fire 
 gently for a few minutes, then add the whites 
 of four eggs whisked to a froth. Fill the dish 
 and bake in a good oven until the souffie rises. 
 Serve immediately. Time to bake, about half 
 an hour. Sufficient for six persons. Probable 
 cost. Is. 8d. 
 
 APPLES, STEWED. 
 
 Apples are very nice pared, cored, sliced, and 
 gently stewed with a little white wine, sugar, 
 and flavouring. They are quickly prepared;, 
 served with custard are a pleasant substitute 
 for apple pie, and are an agreeable addition to 
 the tea-table. They may be mixed with plums 
 or other fruit. Time to stew, a quarter of an 
 hour. 
 
 APPLES, STEWED, FOR DESSERT. 
 
 Wipe carefully six or eight large apples. 
 Place them in a saucepan with half a pound of 
 sugar, a few cloves, the rind and juice of a 
 lemon, and a pint and a half of water. Let them 
 simmer at the side of the flre until the apples 
 are tender but not broken. Lift them out 
 with a spoon, and lay them in a glass dish. 
 Strain the juice, then let it boil a few minutes 
 longer to reduce it. When almost cold, pour 
 it over the apples. Invalids find apples 
 stewed in this way much more tender than 
 if simply baked. Time to stew, varying with 
 the quality. 
 
APP 
 
 23 
 
 APR 
 
 APPLES, STEWED, IN HALVES. 
 
 Pare, core, and halve half a dozen good-sized 
 baking apples. Place them in a saucepan with 
 three table-spoonfuls of sugar, a httle water, 
 the rind and juice of a lemon, and of an orange. 
 Let them simmer gently until they are soft. 
 Serve with the syrup strained and poured over 
 them. Time to simmer, half an hour. 
 
 APPLES AND ALMONDS, PUDDING OF. 
 
 Stew to a pulp six or eight good baking 
 apples,, sweeten and flavour them; then lay 
 them at the bottom of a well-buttered dish. 
 Blanch and pound a quarter of a pound of sweet 
 almonds; add to them four table-spoonfuls of 
 sifted sugar, two table-spoonfuls of flour, the 
 grated rind and juice of a lemon, and four well- 
 beaten eggs. Spread the mixture over the 
 apples, and bake in a good oven. Time to 
 bake, about forty minutes. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. Probable cost. Is. 2d. 
 
 APPLES AND APRICOTS, CHARLOTTE OF. 
 
 Take slices of the crumb of bread about a 
 quarter of an inch thick, or, if preferred, a few 
 Savoy biscuits. Have ready a plain round 
 mould. Cut a round large enough for the 
 bottom of the dish, and a number of fingers for 
 the sides. Fry them in butter to a light brown, 
 and spread them thinly on one side with apri- 
 cot jam. Arrange them in the mould, the round 
 at the bottom and the fingers at the sides^ each 
 piece overlapping another to prevent the fruit 
 escaping.' Fill the middle with apple marma- 
 lade, over which spread, a thin layer of apricot 
 jam. Cover the top closely with pieces of fried 
 bread, place a dish over it, and bake in a quick 
 oven. Serve hot. Time to bake, half an hour. 
 Probable cost of a moderate-sized mould. Is. 6d. 
 Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 APPLES AND APRICOTS, CHARTREUSE OF. 
 
 Put a quart of new milk into a stewpah with 
 a cupful of rice, the rind of a lemon or a little 
 cinnamon, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and a 
 piece of butter the size of a nut. Let it simmer 
 gently until the milk is nearly all absorbed ; 
 then beat it well, and place a thick layer of it 
 at the bottom of a well-buttered pie-dish. Pare 
 and, core half a dozen good-sized apples, but 
 neither divide them nor open them quite 
 through. Fill the cavity in each with a little 
 butter and sugar. Arrange them in the dish, 
 and pour the rest of the rice round them, mak- 
 ing the whole smooth. Put the dish into a 
 moderate oven, and when sufficiently cooked, put 
 a large spoonful of apricot jam at the top of 
 each apple. Serve with sifted sugar. Time to 
 bake, fgrty minutes. Sufficient for six persons. 
 Probable cost. Is. 8d. 
 
 APPLES AND APRICOTS, CCIMPOTE OF. 
 
 Place in a Saucepan half a pouiid of sugar 
 and half a pint of water. Let it boil for ten 
 minutes to thicken, then put into it eight or 
 nine golden pippins pared and cored without 
 being divided. Let them simmer very gently 
 until they are clsar and soft, but not broken. 
 Lift them out carefully, and lay them in a deep 
 glass dish ; pour round them some good cold 
 custfird, arid put on the top of each apple a 
 
 spoonful of apricot jam. Probable cost. Is. 4d. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 APPLES AND PEARS, THE PIPS OF, 
 
 When bruised in a mortar, these impart a 
 delicious flavour to tarts. 
 
 APPLES AND RICE. 
 
 Put eight or nine good-sized apples, pared, 
 cored, and sliced, into a saucepan with a little 
 cinnamon, three ounces of sugar, a small piece 
 of butter, and sufficient water to prevent burn- 
 ing. Allow them to simmer gently until re- 
 duced to a pulp, which must be spread at the 
 bottom of a well-oiled pie-dish. Boil half a 
 cupful of well-washed rice in a pint of milk, 
 with a little cinnamon and sugar, until the 
 milk is absorbed and the rice quite soft; then 
 mix in the yolks of two eggs well beaten, and 
 boil two or three minuted longer, stirring 
 quickly. Pour over the apples, smooth it 
 evenly, and place the dish in a quick oven to 
 brown. Serve with sifted sugar. Time to bake, 
 a quarter of an hour. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 APPLES AND RICE (another way). 
 
 Simmer a cupful of rice in a quart of milk 
 until the rice is tender and the milk absorbed. 
 Add a heaped-up table-spoonful of sugar, and 
 half a dozen drops of essence of almonds. Beat 
 well for a few ininutes, then place in the centre 
 of a large dish a round jar, and pour the rice 
 round it. Pare, core, and cut six or eight 
 large apples into slices half an inch thick. Fry 
 them in boiling oil or butter until they are 
 cooked through, but do not allow them to 
 break; stick thein into the rice, and ornament 
 it prettily with coloured jam, pink sugar, red 
 jelly, or in any way that the fancy may suggest. 
 Before serving, lift the jar from the centre of 
 the dish, and fill the hole with a good custard 
 (see Custabd). This may be eaten either hot or 
 cold. Time to boil the rice, forty minutes. 
 Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost, 2s. 
 
 APPLES WITH CUSTARD, PANCAKE OF. 
 
 Pare, core, and slice four good-sized apples. 
 Fry them in butter, and when they are brown 
 on one side, turn them over, and pour over them 
 a custard made of four eggs beaten, a cupful of 
 cream or new milk, and a little cinnamon. Fry 
 to a light brown. Turn carefully, and serve 
 with sifted sugar. Time to fry, ten minutes. 
 Sufficient for three persons. Probable cost. Is., 
 if made with milk. 
 
 APRICOT, THE 
 
 The apricot is a fruit of- foreign origin, but 
 many varieties are now cultivated in this coun- 
 try, chiefly by grafting on plum-trees. When 
 perfectly ripe it is a delicious table fruit, 
 although it possesses qualities of a laxative ■ 
 tendency, and on that account should not be 
 partaken of too freely by persons of delicate' 
 constitution. A large variety of excellent made- 
 dishes can be formed of apricots, and for pre- 
 serving purposes they are very valuable. The 
 fruit should not be kept long after gathering, 
 as it soon becomes insipid. The skin has a fine 
 flavour, and if the apricots are prepared quickly 
 after being plucked the perfume gives an agree- 
 able piquancy to the dish. The finest arricot 
 
APR 
 
 APR 
 
 is the Moorpark, and the Breda is considered the 
 best species cultivated in the South of England. 
 The fruit is in season in June and July. 
 
 APRICOT BRANDY. 
 
 Put the apricots, which must be sound, but 
 not quite ripe, into a preserving-pan, with suffi- 
 cient water to cover them; allow them to boil; 
 then simmer gently till tender. Remove the 
 skins. To every pound of fruit, take one pound 
 of loaf sugar and a wine-glassful of water. 
 Clarify and boil the sugar, and pour it 
 over the fruit. Let it remain twenty-four hours. 
 Then put the apricots into glasses, and fill them 
 up with syrup and brandy, half and half, and 
 keep them well corked, and the tops of the 
 corks securely sealed. They must be kept twelve 
 months before using. They should be prepared 
 in July. Time to simmer the apricots, about 
 one hour. 
 
 APRICOT CHARLOTTE. 
 
 Well butter a plain round mould. Cut pieces 
 of stale bread — a round for the bottom and 
 fingers for the sides. Fry them in butter, and 
 arrange them in the dish, each piece overlap- 
 ping another, so that the fruit may not escape. 
 Pour in while hot a little apricot jam. In mak- 
 ing the jam, allow half a pound of sugar to 
 every pound of fruit, blanching two or three of 
 the kernels and boiling them with it. Put 
 pieces of buttered bread over the top, and bake 
 in a moderate oven. Turn out carefully, and 
 serve hot, with a little sifted sugar, or with a 
 sauce made of the juice of a lemon stirred into 
 a cupful of milk, and heated over the fire 
 gently, whisking all the time to bring it to a 
 froth. If a richer pudding is desired, slices of 
 sponge-cake may be substituted for the bread, 
 and a custard served with it. Time to bake, 
 half an hour. Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 APRICOT CHARLOTTE (another way). 
 
 Butter an ordinary pie-dish. Put at the 
 bottom a layer of bread-crumbs about a quarter 
 of an inch thick, and then a layer of hot apricot 
 marmalade, and repeat until the dish is full. 
 Lay two or three pieces of butter on the top, 
 and pour a cupful of cold water over the whole. 
 Bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, half 
 an hour. Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 APRICOT CHIPS. 
 
 Put one pound of unpeeled apricots, cut into 
 slices, into a thick syrup made of two pounds 
 of sug;fir boiled with a pint of water until it is 
 nearly candied. Let them stand in this a couple 
 of hours ; then put them into a preserving-pan, 
 and make them as hot as possible without boil- 
 ing. Take them from the fire and let them 
 stand all night. Next day remove the chips 
 from the syrup, spread them on plates, and dry 
 them. Time to remain in the candy, twenty- 
 four hours. 
 
 APRICOT CREAM. 
 
 Take a dozen and a half ripe apricots: pare, 
 stone, and halve them, and place them in a 
 saucepan with a cupful of sugar dissolved in a 
 cupful of water. Let them simmer gently until 
 they are reduced to pulp, when they must be 
 pressed through a fine sieve, and put aside to 
 cool. Boil a pint and a half of new milk or 
 
 cream with three table-spoonfuls of sugar. If 
 these cannot be easily obtained, Swiss milk may 
 be substituted, and will answer very much the 
 same purpose, but it must be remembered that 
 whenever this is used, less sugar will be re- 
 quired. Let it cool after boiling, then put to 
 it the yolks of eight eggs well beaten. Pour 
 this into a jug, which must be placed in a sauce- 
 pan of boiling water and stirred one way until 
 it thickens. Add one ounce and a half of isin- 
 glass which has been boiled in a little water, 
 and when the cream is cold, mix the apricot 
 with it; pour the mixture into a well-oiled 
 mould, and keep it in a cool place. If apricots 
 are out of season, apricot marmalade may be 
 used instead. Time to thicken the cream, ten 
 to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 4s. Bd., if 
 made with milk, and with apricots at 2d. each. 
 
 APRICOT CUSTARD. 
 
 Line a pie-dish with a good short crust. 
 Spread smoothly at the bottom a layer of 
 apricot marmalade about an inch in thickness, 
 and pour over it a custard made of a pint of 
 new milk, three eggs, and a tea-spoonful of 
 ground rice, a little sugar, and four drops of 
 the essence of almonds. Bake in a quick oven. 
 Time to bake, fifteen minutes. Probable cost. 
 Is. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 APRICOT DRINK. 
 
 Peel a dozen apricots, and, after taking out 
 the stones, pour on them a quart of boiling 
 water; allow them to stand for an hour, then 
 strain off the clear liquid, and sweeten with a 
 quarter of a pound of sugar. Probable cost, 
 2s. 2d. Sufficient to make one quart. 
 
 APRICOT fCLAIR. 
 
 Prepare some batter made as follows : Dis- 
 solve one ounce of butter in two ounces of 
 water, add an ounce and a half of flour, and mix 
 well together over the fire ; remove it, and mix 
 in, one after the other, three eggs, a pinch of 
 salt, and three ounces of powdered white sugar. 
 Have ready a buttered baking sheet. With a 
 wooden spoon work up the batter into twelve 
 rolls, each about four inches long and half an 
 inch wide and deep. Cover them with pounded 
 sugar, and shake-it off; the paste will not leave 
 the sheet. For the apricot pulp, peel, slice, 
 and stew one dozen apricots with a quarter of a 
 pound of white sugar. Hub through a hair 
 sieve into a basin. Make a hole at one end of 
 the eclair, and force in two table-spoonfuls of 
 the apricot, and put a neat layer down the 
 _ centre on the top of each eclair. Probable 
 cost 2s. 6d. 
 
 APRICOT ICE CREAM. 
 
 Take half a pound of apricot jam : mix with 
 it a pint of cream, the juice of a lemon, halt 
 a dozen almonds blanched and pounded, and 
 two table-spoonfuls of noyeau. Mix and strain 
 thoroughly. Freeze and serve either in a mould 
 or glasses. Time to freeze, about half an hour. 
 Sufficient for a. pint and a half. Probable cost. 
 Is. ed. 
 
 APRICOT ICE CREAM (another way). 
 
 Rub through a, fine sieve half a pound of 
 apricot jam with a pint of cream, the strained 
 juice of a lemon, half a dozen bitter almonds 
 
APR 
 
 25 
 
 APR 
 
 pounded, and a glass of noyeau. Freeze twenty- 
 five minutes. Or, take a dozen fine ripe apri- 
 cots. Skin, stone, and pulp them through a 
 sieve with a pint of hot cream and five or six 
 ounces of the finest sifted sugar. Mould and 
 freeze. The apricots may he scalded before they 
 are pulped. Sufficient for six or more persons. 
 
 APRICOT JAM. 
 
 Pare three pounds of fresh sound apricots, 
 halve them, and take out the stones. They 
 should be ripe enough to halve with the fingers. 
 Place them in a deep dish, and strew over them 
 one pound of finely-sifted sugar. Let them 
 remain for eight hours. Then place them with 
 the syrup that will have oozed from them in a 
 preserving-pan; add a few of the kernels 
 blanched and sliced, and another pound and a 
 half of sugar. Let them boil very gently, and, 
 when done, put them into jars and cover closely 
 with gummed paper. Time to boil, half an 
 hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 
 APRICOT JAM, GREEN. 
 
 Take two pounds of young apricots : place 
 them in a jar, and pour a little boiling water 
 over them. Let them remain in this for one 
 minute; remove them and rub off the down. 
 Place them in a preserving-pan with a cupful of 
 thick syiup, and let them simmer very gently 
 until the fruit is quite tender. Take them out 
 and put them on an inverted sieve to drain. 
 Make a syrup of two pounds of sugar and two 
 cupfuls of water. Put the apricots into this, 
 and boil for twenty minutes; then put them 
 into jars, and cover the fruit in each jar with a 
 piece of paper dipped in oil, and cover the jars 
 with thin paper brushed with white of an egg 
 or a little g^m-water. Probable cost, 2s. 
 
 APRICOT JELLY. 
 
 Pare, core, and halve about thirty ripe 
 apricots. Blanch and pound a few of the 
 kernels, mixing with them the juice of a lemon. 
 Weigh the apricots, put them into a saucepan 
 with an equal weight of sugar and the pounded 
 kernels; let them boil gently, stirring continu- 
 ally, until they form a thick marmalade. Then 
 pour it into a mould which has previously been 
 filled with cold water. Let it remain until quite 
 stiff, and turn out on a glass dish. This is an 
 excellent dish for invalids. 
 
 APRICOT JUMBLES. 
 
 Pour boiling water over the apricots and let 
 them remain until they are soft, then remove 
 the stones, and dry the fruit in a pan over the 
 fire, or in an oven. Then beat it into a stiff 
 paste with an equal weight of sugar, roll it 
 into lengths, tie the lengths into knots, and 
 preserve for use in a dry place. If it is wished, 
 these jumbles may be coloured red by the 
 addition of a little cochineal to the fruit pulp. 
 
 APRICOT MARMALADE. 
 
 Peel, quarter, and stone four pounds of ripe 
 apricots, and put them into a preserving-pan, 
 without either water or sugar, and let them 
 boil gently, stirring continually, until the fruit 
 is reduced to a pulp. Then add three pounds of 
 sugar, and a few of the kernels blanched and 
 halved, and boil once more. Put into jars, 
 cover the fruit with an oiled paper, and fasten 
 
 over each jar a piece of thin paper dipped in 
 gum-water. When dry it will be tight and 
 hard. Time to boil with the sugar, twenty 
 minutes. Sufi[icient for four or five jars. Prob- 
 able cost, 3s. 6d. 
 
 APRICOT PASTE. 
 
 Peel arid stone some apricots, and put them 
 into a dish in a warm oven ; cover the fruit with 
 another dish, and let them remain until they 
 are tender; then take them out and let them 
 get cold. When this is done, take the same 
 weight of powdered loaf sugar as there was 
 fruit, and moisten it with a small quantity of 
 water ; boil it until ready to candy, and then 
 mix the apricots with it; stir the syrup con- 
 tinually, and boil it until it becomes of the con- 
 sistency of marmalade. Make this paste into 
 the shape of apricots, and put it in a warm 
 place. When dry it will be found very trans- 
 parent. Time to boil the sugar and fruit, till 
 it is stiff and smooth. 
 
 APRICOT PASTE, GREEN. 
 
 Scald the apricots, beat them up, and strain 
 the soft pulp. Mix it with syrup containing 
 twice the weight of the fruit in loaf sugar, and 
 let it boil for a short time ; then remove it 
 from the fire, and when cold pour it into moulds. 
 Boil until it is stiff. 
 
 APRICOT PIE. 
 
 Pare, stone, and halve the apricots. Place 
 them in a pie-dish, piling them high in the 
 middle. Strew over them a little sifted sugar, 
 and a few of the kernels blanched and chopped 
 sinall. Cover them with a good light crust, and 
 bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, three- 
 quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 2s. for » 
 moderate-sized dish. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 APRICOT PRESERVE. 
 
 Peel and stone some moderately ripe apri- 
 cots; put them at night in a deep jar between 
 layers of crushed loaf sugar. Next morning 
 pour over them some white currant juice, or 
 white wine, and place the jar in a large sauce- 
 pan of water, which must be kept boiling until 
 the sugar is completely dissolved; then take 
 the saucepan off the fire and let it get cold. 
 Place the fruit and syrup in a preserving-pan, 
 and boil very gently until the fruit is tender. 
 Allow half A pint of juice and a pound and a 
 half of sugar to every pound of fruit. Time to 
 simmer, forty minutes. 
 
 APRICOT PUDDING. 
 
 Pour a. pint of new milk (boiling) over six 
 table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs. Let them 
 stand until cold. Then add the well-beaten 
 yolks of three eggs, two table-spoonfuls of 
 sherry, a slight flavouring of the essence of 
 almonds, and four ounces of sifted sugar. 
 Beat them thoroughly, then add to them twelve 
 apricots which have been pared, stoned, and 
 simmered gently until they have been reduced 
 to a pulp. Lastly, whisk the whites of two eggs 
 to a firm froth, and add them to the rest. Place 
 the whole in a pie-dish which has been lined 
 with good puff paste, and bake in a quick oven. 
 Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 
 2s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
APR 
 
 26 
 
 APR 
 
 APRICOT PUDDING, BAKED. 
 
 Peel, stone, and halve a dozen fresh ripe 
 apricots : place them in a saucepan with a glass- 
 ful of white wine, and let them simmer very 
 gently for a quarter of an hour. Take .them 
 from the fire, and add four of the kernels 
 blanched and pounded, and two table-spoonful's 
 of sifted sugar. Beat them with a fork; then 
 mix with them four sponge-cakes crumbled, a 
 breakfast-cupful of new milk, and three eggs 
 well beaten. Pour the mixture into a well- 
 oiled mould, and bake immediately. This pud- 
 ding may be eaten hot or cold. If cold, turn it 
 out into a glass dish, and pour round it a good 
 custard. Time to bake, forty minutes. Suffi- 
 cient for six persons. Probable cost. Is. lOd., 
 with apricots- Id. each. 
 
 APRICOT PUDDING OF TINNED APRICOTS. 
 
 Take one and a half ounces of cornflour, 
 two eggs, two and a half ounces of sifted 
 sugar, one pint of milk, and half a tin of 
 preserved apricots. Mix the cornflour with a 
 little of the cold milk, then add the rest, and 
 boil for ten minutes. Remove the saucepan 
 from the fire and let it cool, then add the yolks 
 of the eggs and some of the syrup from the 
 apricots, ' and bake for fifteen minutes. Beat 
 the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, together 
 with an ounce of sifted sugar. Put a layer of 
 apricots over the baked cornflour, and spread the 
 stiff whites over all, making it look as rocky as 
 possible. Put into the oven to brown for four 
 or five minutes. Serve hot or cold. Sufficient 
 for four persons. Probable cost, 8d. 
 
 APRICOT RATAFIA. 
 
 Cover some sliced apricots with white wjne, 
 and simmer them gently until they are reduced 
 to a pulp ; then pour them into an earthen jar. 
 Add to them a cupful of brandy, and a quarter 
 of a pound of sugar to each quart of liquid. 
 Put in with them three or four of the kernels 
 of the fruit broken in pieces, with a little mace, 
 cloves, and cinnamon. Let these materials 
 macerate' in the ratafia for a fortnight; then 
 strain the liquid, and preserve it in well-closed 
 vessels. Time to simmer the apricots, half an 
 hour. 
 
 APRICOT SOUFFLf. 
 
 Pare, stone, and slice one dozen large ripe 
 apricots. Place them in a saucepan with three 
 table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar and three of 
 water. Let them simmer gently until reduced 
 to a pulp, then mix in very smoothly three 
 table-spoonfuls of ground rice or flour, a piece 
 of butter the si^e of a walnut, and a breakfast- 
 cupful of cream or new milk. Wheri the liquid 
 boils J)our it out and add to it the yolks of sii 
 eggs. Well oil the souffle-tin, and at the last 
 moment add the whites of the eggs beaten to a 
 firm froth. Bake in a quick oven, and let the 
 souffle be served directly it is taken out, or it 
 will be spoilt both in taste and appearance. 
 Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 2s., 
 if made with milk ; apricots, 2d. each. Sufficient 
 for a moderate-sized tin. 
 
 APRICOT SYRUP. 
 
 Take off the skins from some ripe apricots, 
 stone them, and cut them into small pieces; 
 
 place them in a dish, and strew over them a 
 thin layer of sifted sugar. Let them remain a 
 couple of hours; place them in a saucepan with 
 a little water, and let them simmer gently until 
 they are soft. Strain the juice, and add to it 
 sugar in the proportion of a pound to a pint. 
 Boil it gently, skimming thoroughly all the 
 time ; let it get cold, then bottle it ; it will be 
 found useful to flavour custards, cream ices, 
 etc. The fruit in the jelly-bag must not be 
 squeezed. After the juice has run from it, it 
 will make very nice tartlets, with the addition 
 of a little sugar. Time to boil with the sugar, 
 ten or twelve minutes, by which time it will 
 become thick and clear. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 per pint. 
 
 APRICOT TART, GREEN. 
 
 Take as many green apricots as may be re- 
 quired for the dish; put them into a saucepan 
 with a little water, to keep them from burning, 
 and half their weight in sugar. When they 
 are soft through, put them, with the syrup, 
 into a pie-dish which has been lined at the edges . 
 with good puff pasts. Pile them high in the 
 middle, cover, and bake in a good oven. The 
 dish will be much improved in appearance if it 
 is iced before sending to the table. To do this, 
 beat the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, lay on 
 the tart, and shake sifted loaf sugar over it; 
 then put it into a moderate oven for five minutes 
 to set. It must not be allowed to colour. When 
 apricots cannot be obtained, young apples taken 
 from the tree before the cores are formed are 
 an excellent substitute. Time to bake, half 
 an hour. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 APRICOT TOAST. 
 
 Take part of a tin of preserved tomatoes, turn 
 the juice into a saucepan with a little sugar and 
 half a glass of sherry. Boil it up, put in six 
 apricots, and simmer a few minutes. Cut some 
 rounds from a milk roll, a little larger than the 
 apricots, fry in butter to a golden brown, drain, 
 arrange in a circle, and place on each a piece 
 of apricot, concave side uppermost; put a 
 kernel in the centre of each, pour the syrup 
 over, and serve with whipped cream in the 
 centre of the dish. Prbtiable cost. Is. 6d. 
 APRICOT TRIFLE. 
 
 Take six penny sponge cakes, split them in 
 three parts, and cover them with a thin coat- 
 ing of apricot jam. Open a tin of apricots; 
 then line a large glass bowl with the sponge 
 cakes, and put the apricots into the middle. 
 Pour one wineglassful of sherry over the cakes, 
 then put about two dozen ratafias to soak in 
 another wineglassful of sherry or Madeira. 
 Make a custard with two eggs and a, pint of 
 new milk, add in a tablespoonful of castor 
 sugar; when cool, add three drops of essence 
 of almonds, and pour the custard over the 
 fruit and cakes. Let it stand till cool, then 
 decorate with the ratafias. Whip a gill of 
 cream, and .place little heaps of this between 
 the ratafias. Put a quarter of a glace cherrv 
 ou each blob of cream. Cut a dozen skinned 
 almqnds into thin slices, and stick round each 
 cherry so that star-like shapes are the result. 
 If preferred, angelica can be used instead of 
 
APR 
 
 27 
 
 APR 
 
 the almonds. Cover with a thin muslin cloth, 
 and stand in a bowl of cold water until needed. 
 
 APRICOT WINE. 
 
 Boil twelve pounds of sliced ripe apricots and 
 a pound of sugar in three gallons of water for , 
 half an hour, and strain the liquor into a pan. 
 Put' with them a few of the kernels of the fruit, 
 mix all together, and having covered the vessel, 
 leave the liquid to cool. Mix one table-spoonful 
 of fresh brewer's yeast with it, and leave it for 
 three or four days to ferment. Then pour ofi 
 the clear liquid into a cask, which must be 
 scrupulously clean, and let it remain until the 
 fermentation is ended. A pint of Rhenish or 
 other white wine should then be added, and the 
 cast closed for six months. At the end of that 
 time it should be decanted into bottles, and 
 kept for a year longer before being used. Time 
 to boil, half an hour; ferment, three or four 
 days. Probable cost, 3s. a gallon. Sufficient to 
 make three gallons. 
 
 APRICOTS (AU RIZ). 
 
 Put a cupful of rice in a saucepan with a quart 
 of milk, a piece of butter the size of a nut, two 
 table-spoonfuls of sugar, and the rind of a 
 lemon. Let all simmer gently, and when the 
 milk is absorbed and the rice tender, add to it 
 four well-beaten eggs. Boil up again, stirring 
 all the time, to cook the egjgs. Remove the 
 lemon-rind. Put a gallipot in the middle of a 
 large glass dish, and heap the rice round it : 
 smooth it with the back of a spoon, and let it 
 slope down to the edges of the dish. When it is 
 cold, remove the gallipot, and place the apri- 
 cots in the hollow, piling them pyramidically. 
 They must be prepared thus : Take two dozen of 
 the fresh fruit, sound and ripe : .pare, stone, 
 and slice them. Make a syrup of a breakfast- 
 cupful of sugar and the juice of two lemons. 
 When it is boiling, throw in the slices, and cook 
 them quickly. A few of the kernels may be 
 blanched and chopped and strewed over the 
 fruit. Place a layer of apricot marmalade 
 mixed with the syrup at the bottom of the 
 hollow, and pile the stewed fruit on that. Time 
 to stew the slices, five minutes. Probable cost, 
 4s. 6d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 APRICOTS, COMPOTE OF. 
 
 Take one dozen large sound apricots ; halve 
 them, remove the stones, and blanch the kernels. 
 Put three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar into 
 an enamelled stewpan with a pint and a half 
 of water. Let it boil ; then put in the apricots, 
 and let them simmer very gently for a few 
 minutes. Take them out, drain them, and 
 arrange them in a dish. When the syrup is 
 cold, pour it over the fruit. Put half a kernel 
 upon each piece of apricot. Probable cost. 
 Is. 3d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 APRICOTS, COMPOTE OF GREEN. 
 
 Remove, by rubbing with a dry cloth, the 
 down from a pound of young green apricots. 
 Put into a saucepan three-quarters of a pint of 
 water and half a pound of sugar; 14t it boil for 
 ten minutes or more, being careful to remove 
 the scum as it rises. Put in the apricots ; sim- 
 mer them very gently. Lift them out one by one 
 with a spoon to prevent them breaking, and 
 
 place in a glass dish. When the syrup is cool, 
 pour it round them. Probable cost. Is. Suffi- 
 cient for half a dozen persons. 
 
 APRICOTS, FLANC OF. 
 
 Make a good short crust with one pound of 
 flour, six ounces of butter, a table-spoonful of 
 sugar, the yolk of an egg, and enough milk to 
 make the pastry of a proper consistence. Well 
 butter a plain oval mould, and line it with the 
 crust about half an inch in thickness, pressing 
 it well in to take the shape. Let it rise above 
 the mould about half an inch, and pinch it at 
 regular distances to ornament it. Fill it with 
 flour, and bake it in a good oven for about half 
 an hour. Then empty out the flour, take the 
 case from the mould, being very careful not to 
 break it, and put it back in the oven for another 
 quarter of an hour. It is now ready for the 
 apricots, which should be pared, stoned, and 
 halved, then simmered gently in a syrup made 
 of half a pound of sugar boiled in half a pint of 
 water, until they are quite tender but not 
 broken. Lift them out, arrange them neatly in 
 the crust; boil the syrup until it is reduced to 
 a jelly, and pour it over the fruit. Serve either 
 hot or cold. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for 
 three or four persons. 
 
 APRICOTS, FROSTED. 
 
 Choose twelve sound apricots : put them into a 
 saucepan with cold water to cover them and a 
 piece of alum the size of a nut. Let them stew 
 a few minutes very gently, until the skin can 
 be drawn off. Remove the skin, dip the apri- 
 cots in clarified butter, and strew thickly over 
 them sugar coarsely crushed. Put them into 
 a moderate oven until the sugar sparkles ; but 
 take care that the fruit is not broken. Pile them 
 on a dish, and serve cold. Time to bake, a 
 qiiarter of an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 3d. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 APRICOTS PRESERVED IN JELLY. 
 
 Take two pounds of sound and not over-ripe 
 apricots, and four of powdered loaf sugar ; pour 
 a little boiling water upon the fruit; then draw 
 oil the skin, and take out the stones by making 
 a slit with a knife at one end, and pushing them 
 gently put. Strew half of the sugar upon a 
 dish, place the fruit upoji it, and cover with the 
 rest. Let it remain thus for two or three hours, 
 then put the whole carefully into a preserving- 
 pan ; let it boil very gently until the apricots 
 are tender, turning them frequently to prevent 
 them burning, and taking off the scum as it 
 rises. Put the apricots into the glasses in which 
 they are to be kept, then add to the syrup half 
 a pint of apple-jjiice, and half a pound of sugar ; 
 let it boil until it. will jelly, which it should 
 do in a few minutes, then pour it over the fruit. 
 
 APRICOTS (TINNED) WITH CREAM. 
 
 Place the fruit in a glass dish with the con- 
 cave side uppermost ; pour the syrup round the 
 fruit, and with a tea-spoon remove any syrup 
 that may have settled in the little cups or con- 
 cavities. Get a small jar of Devonshire clotted 
 cream ; take about half a tea-spoonful and place 
 it in the middle of each cup, and put a single 
 preserved' cherry on the top of the cream. T^is 
 dish can be improved in appearance by chop- 
 
APR 
 
 28 
 
 ARO 
 
 pin^r up a little green angelica like parsley, and 
 sprinkling a few of the little green specks on the 
 cream. Probable coat, 2s. 
 
 APRICOTS, TO BOTTLE (For Tarts in Winter Time). 
 Choose some ripe apricots : pare, stone, and 
 quarter them. Lay them on a dish with pow- 
 dered sugar strewn over them in the proportion 
 of two ounces of sugar to every pound of fruit. 
 Let them remain thus for two or three hours; 
 then put them into wide-mouthed bottles, cover 
 them and place them up to their necks in a 
 saucepan of cold water. JKeep them there until 
 the water boils. Cork the bottles and wax them 
 securely. Time to boil, half an hour. 
 
 APRICOTS, TO CANDY. 
 
 Slit the fruit on one side and take out the 
 stone, dry them separately on a dish, and cover 
 them with crushed lump sugar. Bake them in 
 a hot oven, and then dry them in a warm place 
 for a few days. 
 
 APRICOTS, TO DRY. 
 
 The apricots should be taken before they are 
 quite ripe. Scald them, draw off the skin, 
 divide and stone them. Place them in a dish, 
 with their weight in sugar strewn over them, 
 and let them remain twenty-four hours. Then 
 put the whole into a preserving-pan, and sim- 
 mer them very gently until they are clear. They 
 must remain m the syrup for two days. It must 
 then be drained from them, boiled, and poured 
 over them, and they must remain in it two days 
 more. It must then be drawn off, and used for 
 flavouring or other purposes, and the apricots 
 dusted with sugar and placed a little apart from 
 each other in a cool oven to dry. TTiey keep 
 best in a tin box with writing-paper between 
 the layers. The apricot syrup mixed with an 
 equal quantity of brandy also makes an agree- 
 able liquor. Time to make, six days. 
 
 APRICOTS, TO DRY (a qu!cl< and easy method). 
 
 Pare, stone, and halve the fruit, then place 
 it in a deep stone jar. Put the jar in a sauce- 
 pan of boiling water over a good fire, and keep 
 boiling until the fruit is quite tender. Lay 'the 
 apricots on a sieve, that the juice may drain 
 away, and afterwards put them on plates. Strew 
 sifted sugar thickly over them, and put them in 
 a warm place to dry, before storing them away. 
 Time to boil the fruit, about half an hour. 
 
 APRICOTS, ■<"0 DRY (French method). 
 
 Take some sound but not over-ripe apricots : 
 wipe them and weigh them ; make a hole with 
 a knife at one end, and remove the stone with- 
 out dividing the fruit. Put them into cold 
 water, and simmer until they are quite tender. 
 Take an equal quantity, by weight, of sugar, 
 and boil it in water, allowing a cupful to each 
 pound. When the scum rises, put in the cooked 
 apricots, and let them remain until they look 
 quite clear; then put all into a jar, and let it 
 remain until the next day, when the syrup must 
 be drained off, boiled for five or ten minutes, 
 and poured again over the fruit, to remain 
 another twenty-four hours. This process must 
 be repeated three times. Then the liquor must 
 be drawn from them for the last time; and the 
 apricots placed separately on dishes, and dried 
 very slowly. Time to make, five days. 
 
 APRICOTS, TO PRESERVE (Whole or in Halvei). 
 Take four pounds of fine apricots which are 
 not fully ripe. Let them be gathered, if pos- 
 sible, in the morning, when the sun is on them, 
 as the fiavour is then much the best; make a 
 small slit with a knife at the end where the 
 stalk has been, and push the stone gently out. 
 If they are to be preserved in halves, the stone 
 can be easily removed. Throw them into cold 
 water, and simmer them gently until they feel 
 soft when a pin is pushed through them. Take 
 them out and put them in fresh cold water. 
 Put into a preserving-pan one quart of water 
 and four pounds of loaf sugar. Put it on a 
 moderate fire, and stir it until the sugar is 
 dissolved. When it boils, put in a table-spoon- 
 ful of cold water ; when it boils up again, take 
 it off the fire and let it stand for a few minutes 
 to settle; take off the scum, and boil it again. 
 Drain the fruit, and put it into the syrup; let 
 it boil up four or five times, every time taking 
 it off to cool, when it must be well skimmed. 
 The last time, let it remain until the fruit is 
 quite clear, which will be ia about fifteen 
 minutes. Just before it is taken from the fire, 
 blanch and slice a few of the kernels and add 
 them to it; or they may be blanched and put 
 into a little spirit until the jars are ready to 
 be tied up, and then a few strewn at the top 
 of each. This plan may be followed in preserv- j 
 ing whole many of the better kinds of fruit— i 
 such as peaches, nectarines, greengages, pears, 
 etc. 
 
 APRICOTS WITH BAVARIAN BLANC-IVIANGE. 
 
 Put an ounce of either superior gelatine dia- \ 
 solved or clarified isinglass (see Isinglass, to 
 CLAErFT) with a pint of cream or new milk. ( 
 Squeeze the juice of a lemon over a tea-cupful ' 
 of apricot jam, and mix with it very gradually 
 four table-spoonfuls of milk. ' Stir all together yj 
 for a few minutes ; strain through coarse muslin, '" 
 and when nearly cold, put it into a mould which 
 has been previously soaked in water. Let it 
 stand twelve hours in a cool place. Time to boil 
 the mixture, five minutes. 
 
 APRICOTS WITH RICE. 
 
 Simmer very gently a email tea-cupful of rice 
 with a quart of milk. When the milk is ab- 
 sorbed and the rice thoroughly cooked, put it 
 into a bowl and beat it, for five or ten minutes, 
 with two table-spoonfuls of sugar and six drops 
 of almond flavouring. Press it into a mould' 
 which has been previously soaked in water, and 
 when it is quite cold turn it into a glass dish, 
 and pour round it apricots stewed in halves in 
 a syrup made of a pound of sugar, the juice of 
 three lemons, and three or four spoonfuls of 
 water. A few drops of prepared cochineal put 
 into the syrup will improve the appearance of 
 the dish. Apples or pears may be used instead 
 of apricots. Time to boil the rice, three- 
 quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 28. Suffi- 
 cient for six persons. 
 
 ARABIAN PILAU. 
 
 (See Pilau, Arabian.) 
 
 AROIMATIC CORDIAL. 
 
 Put two ounces of ground ginger, half an 
 ounce of pepper, an ounce of cardamom seeds. 
 
ARO 
 
 29 
 
 ARK 
 
 half an ounce of bruised cinnamon, half an 
 ounce of mace, and half an ounce of orange- 
 peel, iu a g^uart of good whiskey. Let it stand 
 for a fortnight, tightly corked ; then strain and 
 bottle it. It is good to take two or three tea- 
 spoonfvils in wine or water when suffering from 
 indigestion or debility. 
 
 AROMATIC SEASONING OF HERBS AND 
 SPICES. 
 
 Take an ounce and a half of thyme, one ounce 
 of bay-leaves, an ounce of savoury, an ounce of 
 basil, and an ounce and a half of marjoram. 
 Dry them thoroughly, pick the leaves. Pound 
 in a mortar a quarter of an ounce of cayenne 
 pepper, with an ounce of peppercorns, an ounce 
 of cloves, a clove of garlic, the thinly-peeled 
 rind of a lemon, half an ounce of mace, and one 
 nutmeg grated. Mix all well together, pass 
 them through a sieve, and keep stored in well- 
 corked bottles. Time to prepare, one hour and 
 a half. Probable cost. Is. 6d. for a pint bottle. 
 ARROWROOT BISCUITS. 
 
 Beat, a, quarter of a pound of butter to a 
 cream : add gradually three well-beaten eggs, 
 a quarter of a pound of flour, a quarter of a 
 pound of sifted sugar, and three ounces of 
 arrowroot, pounded to crush the lumps. Mix all 
 smoothly together. Have ready a well-oiled tin, 
 and drop from a spoon in pieces about the size 
 of a florin. Bake iu a slow oven. , Time to bake, 
 a quarter of an hour. Sufficient for two dozen 
 biscuits. Probable cost, lOd. 
 
 ARROWROOT BLANCMANGE. 
 
 Mix two ounces of arrowroot with a cupful of 
 water, taking care to make it quite smooth. Put 
 a pint and a half of milk into a saucepan with 
 the rind of a lemon and a table-spoonful of 
 sugar, and when it boils, strain it, and pour it 
 over the arrowroot. Set it on the fire to thicken, 
 and before pouring into the mould, which must 
 be well oiled, add a little brandy. It is better 
 to oil the mould than to soak it iu water, as it 
 gives the blancmange a glistening appearance. 
 Garnish with bright red jelly or jam. Time, 
 half an hour. Sufficient for six persons. Prob- 
 able cost, 6d., without the jam and brandy. 
 
 ARROWROOT CREAM. 
 
 Mix a table-spoonful of arrowroot with two 
 of cold water. Boil a pint and a half of new 
 milk with a bay-leaf, or the thin rind of a 
 lemon, and a dessert-spoonful of sugar. Strain 
 "it and pour it, boiling, upon the arrowroot ; 
 stir it frequently till it is cold, then pour it 
 into a glass dish. This may be served with 
 tarts or stewed fruits. Time to boil, ten 
 minutes. Probable cost. Is. for a pint and a 
 half of cream. 
 ARROWROOT CUP. 
 
 Put one table-spoonful of arrowroot in a cup, 
 mix with a tablespoonful of milk, put half a 
 pint of milk in a saucepan and boil up ; stir the 
 mixed arrowroot into the boiling milk, add one 
 tea-spoonful of sugar, and stir over the fire 
 until it thickens. Serve in a small pie-dish, or 
 cups, with a pinch of grated nutmeg on top. 
 
 ARROWROOT FRITTERS. 
 
 Put a pint of new milk and a table-spoonful 
 of sugar into a saucepan with three or four 
 
 bay-lsaves. When it boils, stir into it a 
 quarter of a pound of arrowroot which has been 
 smoothly mixed with a little cold water; then 
 add the beaten yolks of four eggs. Stir it con- 
 stantly until it is thick and smooth ; then pour 
 it into a well-oiled pie-dish, and' bake iu a good 
 oven. Allow the mixture to cool ; then stamp 
 it out in rounds; dip them in egg and bread- 
 crumbs ; fry them in hot lard, and heap them 
 iu a dish. Serve with jam sauce. Time, twenty 
 minutes to boil; ten minutes to bake; five 
 minutes to fry. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. Probable cost. Is., without the jam. 
 
 ARROWROOT JELLY. 
 
 Soak the thin rind of a lemon and a table- 
 spoonful of sifted sugar in a cupful of cold 
 water. Let it remain four hours; then strain 
 the liquid, and mix it with three table-spoonfuls 
 of arrowroot, a table-spoonful of brandy, the 
 juice of four lemons, and three drops of almond 
 flavouring. Put it into a saucepan, and stir it 
 until it is thick. Put it into a damp mould, or 
 let it get cold; then serve it in glasses. Time 
 to boil, five minutes. Probable cost, 8d., ex- 
 clusive of the brandy. Sufficient for a half-pint 
 mould. 
 
 ARROWROOT JELLY (another way). 
 
 Mix two table-spoonfuls of arrowroot with a 
 little water, and pour upon the paste a half pint 
 of boiling water, and a half pint of white wine 
 sweetened and flavoured with almond or lemon 
 flavouring. Stir it well; then put it again on 
 the fire, still continuing to stir it until it is 
 quite thick- Pour it into a mould which has 
 been soaked in cold water; turn it out the 
 next day, and serve it with cream-custard or 
 jam. Time to boil with the arrowroot, three or 
 four minutes. Sufficient for a pint mould. Prob- 
 able cost, 4d., without the wine and cream, etc. 
 
 ARROWROOT, NOURISHING, FOR INVALIDS 
 AND SICK CHILDREN. 
 
 Boil half an ounce of hartshorn shavings and 
 a little lemon-rind in a pint of water for fifteen 
 minutes ; strain, and pour the liquid upon two 
 dessert-spoonfuls of arrowroot which has been 
 previously mixed with a little cold water. Stir 
 briskly, and boil for a few minutes; then add 
 a tea-spoonful of sugar and a glass of wine. 
 Probable cost, 3d. per pint, without the wine. 
 Sufficient for one person. Time to boil the 
 shavings, a quarter of an hour. 
 
 ARROWROOT PUDDING. 
 
 Mix two dessert-spoonfuls of arrowroot with 
 half a cupful of milk. Place a pint and a half 
 of milk in a saucepan with the grated rind of 
 half a lemon and a table-spoonful of sugar. 
 Boil it, and pour it upon the arrowroot. Stir 
 it well, and when cool, add three well-beaten 
 eggs and a piece of butter the size of a walnut. 
 Line the edges of a well-buttered pie-dish with 
 puff paste, spread a layer of preserved fruit at 
 the bottom, then pour m the mixture, and bake 
 iu a good oven. Time to bake, half an hour. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable 
 cost. Is. 
 
 ARROWROOT PUDDING, PLAIN. 
 
 Mix two table-spoonfuls of arrowroot with a 
 little water. Put into a saucepan » pint and 
 
ARR 
 
 ZQ 
 
 ART 
 
 a half of milk, with a little grated nutmeg and 
 a table-spoonful of sugar. When it boils, pour 
 it upon the arrowroot, stirring it well, and 
 add a piece of butter the size of a walnut. Pour 
 it into a well-buttered pie-dish, and bake in a 
 moderate oven" for an hour or more. This is a 
 wholesome pudding for the nursery. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. Probable cost, 6d. 
 ARROWROOT PUDDING, STEAMED. 
 
 Mix two table-spoonfuls of arrowroot with a 
 cupful of milk. Flavour a pint and a half of 
 milk with cinnamon, lemon, orange, almonds, 
 or whatever may be preferred ; put it on the 
 fire, and when it boils, pour it upon the arrow- 
 root. Stir well, and when it is cool add three 
 well-beaten eggs, a table-spoonful of sugar, and 
 the same of brandy. Put it into a well-buttered 
 mould, cover it over, and steam it. When ready 
 to serve, turn out, and put jam round it in the 
 dish. Time to steam, one hour and a half. 
 Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for six persons. 
 ARROWROOT SAUCE. 
 
 Mix a desr irt-spoonful of arrowroot with half 
 a pint of water. Put it into a saucepan and let 
 it boil gently, stirring all the time. Add two 
 table-spoonfuls of sugar, and any flavouring 
 chat may be preferred. A table-spoonful of 
 brandy will be an improvement. This sauce is 
 suitable for rice, bread, or plum pudding. 
 Time, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 
 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 ARROWROOT SAUCE, CLEAR. 
 
 Rub the thin rind of a lemon on large lumps 
 of sugar, anU put tliem in a saucepan with a 
 breaHast-cupful of raisin or gooseberry wine. 
 Mix a heaped tea-spoonful of arrowroot with a 
 little water, stir it gradually into the wine, and 
 pour it round the pudding. Time to boil, ten 
 minutes. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 ARROWROOT souffle'. 
 
 Mix four table-spoonfuls of arrowroot with a 
 cupful of milk. Stir it gradually, into a pint 
 of boiling milk, and add two table-spoonfuls of 
 sugar on which the rind of a lemon has been 
 rubbed. Let it boil for a quarter of an hour, 
 stirring all the time. Take it from the fire and 
 let it cool, then stir in the well-beaten yolks of 
 six eggs. Well oil a plain tin mould, and when 
 everything is ready, whisk the whites to a solid 
 froth, and add them to the rest. Fill the tin 
 three-parts full, and bake for twenty minutes 
 in a good oven. Serve immediately. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 
 ARROWROOT, TO PREPARE. 
 
 Mix a dessert-spoonful of arrowroot with a 
 little cold water. Pour on it, very gradually, 
 half a pint of water boiled with a little lemon- 
 rind; stir it briskly, and boil for a few minutes. 
 Sweeten it, and add a little sherry or port wine. 
 For infants, a drop of cinnamon-water, or i^^ the 
 essence of caraway-seeds; may be put in. Fresh 
 milk may be substituted for the water, when 
 the wine may be omitted. If there is any fear 
 that the milk is in the slightest degree adul- 
 terated, it will be much better to use condensed 
 milk, if for invalids. In that case no sugar will 
 be required. Probable cost, 2d. per pint with- 
 out the wine. Sufficient for one person. 
 
 ARROWROOT TO THICKEli SAUCES. 
 
 Arrowroot may be used to thicken sauces for 
 those wlao object to butter, as invalids often 
 do. Mix a dessert-spoonful of arrowroot 
 smoothly with a little cold water, and stir it 
 into a pint of the boiling sauce. Time to boil, 
 four or five minutes. Probable cost. Id. Suffi- 
 cient for one pint of sauce. 
 ARROWROOT AND PRUNE TART. 
 
 Take three-quarters of a pound of prunes, 
 scald them, remove the stones, and place the 
 prunes in hot water. Make a syrup with half 
 a pint of water and two heaped tablespbonfuls 
 of Demerara sugar, and stew the prunes in 
 this. Cut up the rind of half a lemon very 
 finely, and add to the fruit. Take out the 
 kernels, and add these. ' Then put in a level 
 tablespoonful of cranberry juice, and simmer 
 slowly till the fruit is well done. Stand on 
 one side until cold. Mix one and a half table- 
 spoonfuls of arrowroot with a little cold milk, 
 then stir it into a pint of boiling milk, to- 
 gether with a tablespoonful of sugar, gtir till 
 it thickens, then set aside to cool.' lane a 
 pie-dish with short crust, put in a layer, of 
 prunes and a layer of arrowroot ; repeat, till 
 the dish is full, and then; bake to a delicate 
 brown in a, moderate oven. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 ARROWROOT WATER A Drink for Invalids. 
 
 Boil the thinly-peeled rind of a small lenjon 
 in a quart of water. Pour it, when "boiling, 
 over a table-spoonful of arrowroot which has 
 been mixed with two table-spoonfuls of wi,ne 
 or brandy, if these are allowed, if not, with a 
 little cold water ; stir it well, sweeten it slightly, 
 and let it boil again two or three minutes. A 
 little lemon-juice is an improvement.. Sufficient 
 to make a quart of the liquid. Probable cost, 
 without the wine, 3d. 
 ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS. 
 
 Take a few artichoke bottoms, dried. Soak 
 them, and boil them in sufficient clear stock to 
 cover them. When tender, wliich may be ascer- 
 tained by sticking a fork ' into them, take them 
 out, let them drain, then put a little forcemeat 
 into each one, and serve them in a napkin. Time 
 to boil, if young, three-quarters of an tour; if 
 fully grown, an hour and a half. Sufficient, 
 one for each person. Probable cost, 3d. each. 
 
 ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, FOR GARNISH. 
 
 The trimming of artichoke bottoms for gar- 
 nish should be done in this way : Choose a very 
 sharp knife; lay the artichokes on their sides, 
 and cut right through the leaves about two 
 inches above the stalk ends. Trim off the leaves 
 all round the fronds, and plunge them into boil- 
 ing salted water sharpened with a tea-spoonfiil 
 of vinegar. As soon as they are sufficiently 
 cooked to allow of the scooping out of the 
 chokes, lift them out, drain, let them get cold, 
 remove the chokes, trim the fronds neatly, and 
 use according to directions. 
 
 ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, TO PICKLE. 
 
 Parboil the artichokes; pull out the leaves, 
 and do not remove the choke. Allow them to 
 cool; put them into pickle-bottles Boil sufK- 
 cient vinegar to fill up the bottles, adding to 
 every quart of vinegar a dessert-spoonful of 
 
ART 
 
 31 
 
 ART 
 
 salt, a small tea-spoonful of white pepper, and 
 a blade of mace. Simmer it for twenty minutes. 
 Put it aside, and when cold pour it into the 
 bottles, which must be corked closely. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. for a pint bottle. 
 
 ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, STEWED. 
 
 Dried artichoke bottoms should be soaked for 
 two or three hours, in warm water, then boiled 
 in salt and water, and served with white sauce 
 poured over them ; or stewed in gravy flavoured 
 with ketchup, salt, and pepper, and thickened 
 with flour. Time to boil, three-quarters of an 
 hour. 
 
 ARTICHOKE SALAD. 
 
 Wash thoroughly and quarter some very 
 young artichokes. Remove the chokeS,.and eat 
 them like radishes, with pepper, salt; vinegar, 
 and oil. They taste like nuts, and make a nice 
 relish. Time to prepare, ten minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, 2d. or 3d. each. 
 
 ARTICHOKE SAUCE. 
 
 Put a piece of butter the size Of an egg into 
 a saucepan; let it melt; put into it an onion, 
 sliced, half a head of celery, a table-spoonful 
 of chopped ham, a pinch of powdered cinnamon, 
 one salt-spoonful of salt, and a little cayenne. 
 Stir the ingredients constantly over a fire gently 
 for a quarter of an hour, adding more butter, if 
 necessary. Then add to them a pound of Jeru- 
 salem artichokes, boiled and beaten to a pulp, 
 and a pint of milk. Boil all together until the 
 sauce is rather thicker than creain. Strain, boil 
 again, and serve hot. Time, to boil the in- 
 gredients together, ten minutes. Probable cost, 
 Is. 2d. per pint. Sufiicient for rather more than 
 a pint of sauce. 
 
 ARTICHOKES (a la Barigoule). - < 
 
 Wash and trim three or four artichokes ; re- 
 move the chokes, and fry the tops of the leaves 
 and the bottoms of the artichokes in hot lard or 
 fat for three or four minutes. Fill the cavities 
 with a forcemeat made with two ounces of finely- 
 shred suet, two ounces of undressed veal free 
 from fat or fibre, two ounces of bread-crumbs, 
 two tea-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, a quarter 
 of a tea-spoonful each ot marjoram and thyme, 
 half a tea-spoonful of chopped shallot, half a 
 tea-spoonful each of salt, pepper, powdered 
 mace, and grated lemon-rind. Mix thor- 
 oughly; then work: them together with the 
 yolk of an egg. Fasten a piece of bacon on the 
 top of each artichoke. t'Bind them with string 
 or tape to keep them in their proper 'shape. 
 Put them in a stewpan with brown gravy suffi- 
 cient to cover them. Let them stew gently till 
 tender; remove the strings; put them on a dish 
 with a little of the gravy, thickened, round 
 them. Time to stew, half an hour. Probable 
 cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for four persons. 
 ARTICHOKES (i la St. Cloud) 
 
 Trim and boil them till the chokes come out ; 
 then drain and let them qool. Have ready as 
 many small pigeons stewed and well-seasoned as 
 you have artichokes, and stuff each artichoke 
 with a pigeon. Dip them in a good batter made 
 of flour, eggs, a spoonful of oil, and a little salt ; 
 fry in a very hot pan with plenty of dripping. 
 Probable cost. Is. 2d. each. 
 
 ARTICHOKES (k I'Hulle). 
 
 Allow one artichoke, if small, for each person ; 
 trim them neatly, cutting off the ends of the 
 leaves, and put them in a saucepan with plenty 
 of boiling water, salt, a tiny bit of soda; and 
 the juice of a lemon. Keep the lid of the sauce- 
 pan on, and when the artichokes are done, put 
 them on a dish to drain thoroughly and get 
 cold. Serve with the following sauce in a boat. 
 Beat up together in a basin for a few minutes 
 six dessert-spoonfuls of salad oil, two ounces of 
 tarragon vinegar, half a tea-spoonful of salt, 
 the same quantity of French mustard, and 
 pepper to taste, then add some finely chopped 
 tarragon. This can, ,of course, be prepared 
 beforehand, but it must be mixed well with a 
 fork before being sent to table. Probable cost, 
 2d. to 4d. each. 
 ARTICHOKES (i I'ltalienne). 
 
 Well wa&h, trim, and quarter the artichokes,^ 
 and boil them in salt and water , until tender. 
 Eemove the chokes, drain thoroughly, and ar- 
 rangie them on a dish with the leaves outwards, 
 and intersperse them with watercress. Pour 
 good white sauce^ flavoured with stewed mush- 
 rooms, over them. Time to boil the artichokes, 
 half an hour. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. each. 
 Allow one artichoke for each person. 
 ARTICHOKES (k la Lyonnai^e). 
 
 Wash, blandh, and trim four artichokes ; then 
 place them in a stewpan with two ounces of 
 butter, the juice of a lemon, a pinch of salt, 
 and a pinch of pepper. Simmer them gently 
 until they are sufficiently cooked, then drain 
 them from the fat, and put them into the oven 
 to brown slightly. Put a cupful of good stock 
 into the saiicepan in which the artichokes were 
 stewed. Stir gently for a few mintites, add a 
 glass of white wine, and serve. Time, three- 
 quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 2d. to 4J. 
 each. Sufficient for three persons. 
 ARTICHOKES (i la Poivrade). 
 
 Take four or five young artichokes ; trim 
 them, remove the chokes, cut off the lower 
 leaves, divide the artichokes into four, and throw 
 them into vinegar and cold water to preserve the 
 colour. When wanted, drain them from the 
 vinegar and water, put them into a dish, and 
 serve like radishes. Pepper, salt, oil, and vine- 
 gar should be sent to table with them. Probable 
 cost, 2d. to 4d. each. Sufficient for a small side- 
 dish. 
 ARTICHOKES, BOILED. 
 
 Soak the artichokes, and wash them in several 
 waters to expel any insects. Cut the stalks even, 
 and trim away the lower leaves and the ends 
 from the upper one. Boil them in plenty of 
 salted water with the tops downwards, and let 
 them remain until the leaves can be easily 
 drawn out. Send a little Dutch sauce to table 
 with them. Boiled artichokes often form a 
 separate dish. The leaves should be pulled out 
 with the fingers, dipped in the sauce, and car- 
 ried to the mouth. Time, if young, about half 
 an hour; longer, if old. Allow one for each 
 person. Probable cost, from 2d. to 4d. each. 
 ARTICHOKES, BORDEAUX FASHION. 
 
 Trim your artichokes and blanch twenty 
 'minutes, place them in cold water, then scoop 
 
ART 
 
 32 
 
 ART 
 
 out the interior with the handle of a spoon, 
 taking out every particle of the inside, and have 
 ready the following sauce. Peel thirty large 
 button onions, and cut them up in rings, put 
 them in a stewpan with a little oil, and fry 
 to a light yellow colour; add half a pint of 
 white sauce and two table-spoonfuls of bread- 
 crumbs, mix well, then add eighteen stoned 
 olives and the fillets of four anchovies well 
 washed ; stew until all is well-cooked, then 
 season with a little pepper, sugar, and a piece 
 of scraped garlic the size of a pea. Pour this 
 into the artichokes, and when done serve with 
 a little white sauce in each. Probable cost, 
 "Sd. each. 
 ARTICHOKES, DRIED. 
 
 Wash the artichokes in two or three waters. 
 Put them for a quarter of an hour in plenty of 
 fast-boiling water. Drain, and place them in a 
 moderate oven for an hour. Allow them to cool. 
 Eepeat this several times, until they are quite 
 dry. They should be kept in a dry place, well 
 covered. Time to prepare, three or four hours. 
 Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. each. 
 
 ^-.^RTICHOKES FRAN^AISE. 
 
 Put the artichokes to soak in some well- 
 salted water; they should be upside down, so 
 as thoroughly to rid them of the insects which 
 so often hide in the leaves. Trim off the ends 
 of the leaves and the stalk, and put the arti- 
 chokes into a saucepan with sufficient stock to 
 cover them, adding pepper and salt to taste. 
 A bunch of sweet herbs may be added if liked. 
 Let the artichokes boil slowly till tender. 
 Drain well, then melt an ounce of butter in 
 a stewpan, slice five good-sized tomatoes into 
 this and fry. A little tomato sauce may be 
 added, allowing two tablespoonfuls of this to 
 the other quantities given here. Mix a table- 
 spoonful of flour with a little cold water, and 
 stir into the stock till it thickens; then add 
 the fried tomatoes. Place the artichokes in 
 a hot dish, arrange sippets of toast round, and 
 pour the sauce over and around. Probable 
 cost, 2d. to 4d. each. 
 
 ARTICHOKES, FRIED. 
 
 Wash, trim, and boil the artichokes as 
 directed in the recipe for boiling. Eemove the 
 jjhokes and the outer leaves, leaving only the 
 most tendtr. Cut them into about a dozen 
 pieces, then dip them in batter, fry in hot oil 
 or dripping until they are lightly browned, 
 drain, and serve with fried parsley. Time to 
 fry, five or six minutes. Probable cost, 2d. to 
 4d. each. Allow three for four persons. 
 ARTICHOKES, FRIED {k la Gouffe). 
 
 Wash and trim three young, freshly-cut arti- 
 chokes. Cut them into thin slices, and as they 
 are cut throw them into water with a cupful of 
 vinegar in it; this is to preserve the colour. 
 Drain them, and season them with a pinch of 
 salt and the same of pepper. Make a batter 
 -with three eggs, two table-spoonfuls of oil, and 
 two of flour. When all are well mixed, put the 
 slices of artichoke into it, and stir it gently for 
 three or four minutes, until every piece of arti- 
 choke is well covered. Fry gently in hot fat, 
 being careful that the vegetable is cooked 
 throughout as well as browned. Drain off the 
 
 fat, pile the slices on a napkin, and garnish 
 with a little fried parsley. Time to fry, a 
 quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 2d. or 3d. 
 per pound. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM, BOILED. 
 
 Peel the artichokes, and throw each root into 
 cold water and vinegar immediately, to preserve 
 the colour. Put them into boiling water, with 
 a little salt, until sufficiently tender for a fork 
 to pass through them easily, then pile them on 
 a dish, and serve as hot as possible with melted 
 butter or white sauce poured over. Time to boil, 
 about twenty minutes. They should be tried 
 with a fork frequently after a quarter of an 
 hour, as they will become black and tasteless if 
 allowed to remain on the fire longer than neces- 
 sary. Allow two pounds for a tureen. Probable 
 cost, 2d. or 3d. per pound. 
 
 ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM, FRICASSEED. 
 
 Boil some artichokes according to the pre- 
 ceding recipe. Take them out of the water and 
 drain them. Put a breakfast-cupful of milk 
 into a saucepan, flavour it with salt, pepper, and 
 powdered cinnamon, and thicken it with a small 
 piece of butter rolled in flour. Turn the arti- 
 chokes into this, and let all stew together gently 
 for a few minutes. Time to stew, five or six 
 minutes. Probable cost, 2d. or 3d. per pound. 
 Allow two pounds for a tureen. 
 
 ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM, FRIED. 
 
 Pare and cut the artichokes in slices about 
 the eighth of an inch in thickness, and fry them 
 in sufficipnt boiling oil or lard for them to 
 wim in until they are a rich brown. Strew a 
 little salt over them, pile high on a dish, and 
 send to table hot. Time to fry, eight or ten 
 minutes. Sufficient, two pounds for a moderate- 
 sized dish. Probable cost, 2d. or 3d. per pound. 
 
 ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM, IN WHITE SAUCE. 
 
 Wash and pare' the artichokes, and throw each 
 root as it is pared into cold water, to preserve 
 the colour. Cut a little piece off one end, so 
 that each one will stand, and taper the other 
 end. Boil them in milk and water, and when 
 tender arrange them in a dish with the points 
 uppermost, and pour over them a good white 
 sauce. Time to boil, about twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost, 2d. or 3d. per pound. Allow two 
 pounds for a tureen. 
 ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM, MASHED. 
 
 Wash and pare some artichokes ; boil them in 
 salt and water until quite tender, then drain 
 and press the water thoroughly from them. Put 
 them into a saucepan, and beat to a pulp; add- 
 ing salt, pepper, and a little cream. Serve 
 quite hot. Time to boil, twenty minutes; to 
 mash, five minutes. Probable cost, 2d. or 3d. 
 per pound. Allow two pounds for four or five 
 persons. 
 ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM, SOU P, OR PUR^E OF. 
 
 Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into 
 a saucepan ; let it melt ; then throw into it two 
 bay-leaves, one sliced onion, three pounds of 
 Jerusalem artichokes washed, pared, and sliced, 
 and half a pound of bacon in rashers. Keep 
 these well stirred in the boiling butter for about 
 ten minutes ; then add to them, gradually, one 
 pint of stock. Let all boil up together until 
 
ART 
 
 33 
 
 ASP 
 
 the vegetables are thoroughly cooked ; then add 
 three pints more stock, stir it well, add pepper 
 and salt to taste, press it through a sieve, and 
 add one pint of boiling milk. Boil five minutes 
 more, and serve with toasted bread cut in dice. 
 Time to boil, about one hour and a half. Prob- 
 able cost, lOd. per pint. Sufficient for six 
 persons. 
 
 ARTICHOKES STEWED IN GRAVY. 
 
 Strip off the leaves from the artichokes, re- 
 move the chokes, and soak them in lukewarm 
 water for three hours, changing the water three 
 or four times. Place them in a saucepan with 
 enough gravy to cover them, a table-spoonful 
 of mushroom ketchup, the juice of a lemon, and 
 a piece of butter, the size of a walnut, rolled in 
 flour. Let them stew gently until tender, then 
 serve with the sauce poured over them, and as 
 hot as possible. Time to stew, half an hour. 
 Allow one for each person. Probable cost, 2d. 
 to 4d. each. 
 
 ARTICHOKES, STUFFED. 
 
 Thoroughly wash the artichokes. Boil them 
 until they are nearly tender, drain them, re- 
 move the middle leaves and the chokes, and lay 
 in each a little good forcemeat, and put them in 
 a moderate oven until the meat is Sufficiently 
 cooked. Make a little good melted butter to 
 serve with them. Time to bake, half an hour. 
 Allow one for each person. Probable cost, 6d. 
 each. 
 
 ASHBERRY OR ROWAN JELLY. 
 
 This fruit is not often for sale, but must be 
 gathered from the Mountain Ash. Wash the 
 fruit thoroughly, and put it into a preserving- 
 pan with water sufficient to cover it. Let it 
 simmer gently until the water is red and has a 
 bitter taste ; then strain but do not squeeze the 
 fruit. Put a pound of sugar to every pint of 
 liquor, and boil it over a good fire until it 
 jellies. Pour it into jars, and when cold cover 
 with tissue paper dipped in gum water. The 
 fruit should be gathered when it is red, but 
 before the frost has touched it. It should be 
 placed on the table with venison. Time to boil, 
 about forty minutes. With an equal quantity 
 of apples this makes a delicious jelly. 
 
 ASPARAGUS, BOILED. 
 
 Choose bunches of asparagus which have the 
 cut fresh and the heads straight. If the cut 
 end is brown and dry, and the heads bent on 
 one side, the asparagus is stale. It may be kept 
 a day or two with the stalks in cold water, but 
 is much better fresh. Scrape off the white skin 
 from the lower end, and cut the stalks of equal 
 length. Let them lie in cold water until it is 
 time to cook them. Put a handful of salt into a 
 gallon of water, and let it boil. Tie the aspara- 
 gus loosely in small bundles and put them into 
 it. Toast a slice of bread brown on each side, dip 
 it in the water, and lay it on a dish. When the 
 asparagus is sufficiently cooked, dish it on the 
 toast, leaving the white ends outwards each 
 way. Send melted butter to table with it. Time 
 to cook, about twenty minutes. Fresh asparagus 
 cooks more quickly than stale. Probable cost, 
 2s. 6d. a hundred. Sufficient, fifty for half a 
 dozen persons. 
 D 
 
 ASPARAGUS, FRICASSEED. 
 
 Wash a quarter of a hundred heads of aspara- 
 gus, cut offi the tender portion, and lay them 
 into cold water until they are required. Drain 
 them, and chop them along with a young let- 
 tuce, half a head of endive, and a small onion. 
 Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into a 
 saucepan, melt it, then mix with it smoothly a 
 dessert-spoonful of flour and half a pint of 
 stock. Add the chopped vegetables, with pepper 
 and salt, and let all stew gently until the sauce 
 is thick and good. Serve hot. Time to stew, 
 half an hour. Probable cost for this quantity. Is. 
 
 ASPARAGUS, FRENCH METHOD OF COOKING. 
 
 Wash and boil the asparagus about twenty 
 minutes ; then drain them, and cut off the heads 
 and about two inches of the tender part of the 
 stalks; mince them small, and mix with them 
 an onion also chopped small. Add the well- 
 beaten yolk of an egg, salt and pepper. Make it 
 hot, put a slice of toast upon it, and pour a good 
 sauce over all, or sippets of toasted bread may 
 be placed under it. Probable cost, 28. 6d. per 
 hundred, when fully in season. Allow half a 
 hundred for six persons. 
 
 ASPARAGUS HEADS AS PEAS. 
 
 Take off about two inches of the head-ends of 
 the asparagus; cut them into pieces about the 
 size of peas, and put them into a saucepan with 
 some salt and cold water. Let them boil about 
 ten minutes; then take them out, drain them, 
 melt, in a saucepan a piece of butter the size of 
 an egg, and place them in it. Shake the 
 saucepan over the fire for a few minutes ; then 
 sprinkle a dessert-spoonful of flour over it, and 
 a small tea-cupful of boiling water, pepper and 
 salt to taste, and pour over the asparagus the 
 beaten yolks of two eggs, mixed with four table- 
 spoonfuls of new milk. Let all simmer gently 
 for five or ten minutes ; then serve. Time, half 
 an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Allow a hun- 
 dred for a tureen full. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 ASPARAGUS OMELET. 
 
 Boil in the usual way twenty-five heads of 
 asparagus, and cut the green ends, when tender, 
 into pieces the size of peas. Asparagus that has 
 been previously cooked may be used in this way, 
 first heating it in a little boiling water. Mix 
 with them four well-beaten eggs, and add a 
 little pepper and salt. Melt a piece of butter 
 the size of an egg in an omelet pan, pour in the 
 mixture, stir till it thickens, fold it nicely over, 
 and serve with sauce and vinegar. Time to fry, 
 six minutes. Probable cost. Is. 4d. Sufficient 
 for three persons. 
 ASPARAGUS PUDDING. 
 
 Take half a hundred young asparagus, and cut 
 up the green part into pieces as small as peas. 
 Beat a piece of butter the size of an egg to a 
 cream; add to it a cupful of flour, two tea- 
 spoonfuls of finely-chopped ham, four eggs well 
 beaten, the asparagus, and a little pepper and 
 salt. Mix all well together, and add sufficient 
 milk to make it into a stiff batter. Put it into 
 a well-oiled mould, wrap it in a floured cloth, 
 and place in a saucepan of boiling water. When 
 sufficiently cooked, turn it on a hot dish, and 
 pour good melted butter round it. This is a 
 
ASP 
 
 34 
 
 ASP 
 
 very nice way of cooking asparagus. Time to 
 boil, two hours. Probable cost, 2s. for a pint 
 mould. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. 
 ASPARAGUS SAUCE. 
 
 Cut the green ends off a quarter of a hundred 
 of asparagus, and boil them in salt and water 
 until they are tender. Drain well, make a little 
 good melted butter, using stock instead of 
 water, putting with it a lump of sugar and the 
 juice of a lemon. Pry the asparagus points in 
 a little boiling butter, press them through a 
 sieve, then add them to the melted butter, and 
 let all boil up together. If the colour is not 
 very good, a few leaves of young spinach mixed 
 in a mortar with pounded sugar will improve it. 
 Time to boil the asparagus, ten minutes. To 
 fry it, six or seven. Sufficient, a quarter of a 
 hundred of asparagus for half a pint of melted 
 butter. Probable cost, lOd. per half pint. 
 ASPARAGUS SOUP. ^ 
 
 Take a hundred heads of asparagus. Cvit away 
 the hard, tough part, and boil the rest till 
 tender. Drain them, throw half into cold water 
 until the soup is nearly ready, and 'press the 
 other half through a hair sieve. Stir the pressed 
 asparagus into three pints of stock, which has 
 not been flavoured with any other vegetable. 
 Boil it, and add salt, pepper, and a small lump 
 of sugar. Cut the remaining heads of aspara- 
 gus into pieces the size of peas. Put them into 
 the soup for a few minutes and serve. If 
 necessary, colour with a little spinach green. 
 Time, about an hour. Probable cost of aspara- 
 gus, 2s. 6d. a hundred in full season. Sufficient 
 for six or eight persons. 
 ASPARAGUS (TINNED). 
 
 Place the tin in a saucepan with sufficient 
 cold water to cover it. Bring to boiling point, 
 and let it boil for five minutes. Take out the 
 tin and cut it open round the edge, as near to 
 the edge as possible so as to avoid cutting the 
 asparagus. Drain off the liquor, and serve the 
 asparagus on freshly-made hot toast. Probable 
 cost. Is. 9d. to 2s. for large tin. 
 ASPARAGUS TIPS (Pointes d'Asperges Creme). 
 
 Break off the tips and tie in small bundles, 
 cut the tender part of the stalk half an inch 
 long, and cook both in boiling water, the tips 
 separately to prevent them breaking; when 
 tender drain well. Now take a little Bechamel 
 sauce (see Bechamel), and reduce with a little 
 of the water that has cooked the asparagus ; 
 thicken with the yolk of an egg or whipped 
 cream to proper consistency, and season to taste. 
 Put the asparagus into a saucepan with the 
 sauce until quite hot. Serve on porcelain dishes. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. per bundle. 
 ASPARAGUS WITH EGGS. 
 
 Cut up about two dozen heads of cooked 
 asparagus into small pieces, and mix in a stew- 
 pan with the well-beaten yolks of two raw eggs. 
 Flavour with pepper and salt and stir freely. 
 Add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and 
 keep on stirring for a couple of minutes or so. 
 Serve on delicately toasted bread. Probable 
 cost. Is. 3d. 
 ASPARAGUS WITH HOLLANDAISE SAUCE. 
 
 Carefully wipe the tips of the asparagus, 
 scrape the stalks, and cut them the same 
 
 length; wash well, and tie them in small 
 bundles, choosing those of the same size. Cook 
 in boiling water, slightly salted — ^the biggest 
 should be put in a few moments before the 
 smaller ones. When the tips are tender, drain, 
 and arrange them on a folded napkin, pile the 
 largest on the top. Serve separately in a sauce- 
 boat some Hollandaise sauce, prepared as 
 follows. Take a wineglass of vifiegar and a 
 few grains of pepper and boil, then draw away 
 from the fire and add the yolks of six fresh eggs, 
 and stir with an egg-beater. When the eggs 
 begin to thicken drop slowly into the saucepan 
 with the other hand eight ounces of good melted 
 butter, turning the egg-beater all the time to 
 mix well togemer. If the sauce should become 
 too thick, thin it with a little warm water. 
 Strain through muslin and serve hot. Probable 
 cost, asparagus,. 2b. 6d. to 3s. 6d. per hundred 
 heads ; sauce. Is. 3d. 
 
 ASPARAGUS WITH PARMESAN. 
 
 Boil two dozen heads of asparagus in the 
 ordinary way; then allow it to get cold, and 
 dip the edible ends in yolks of eggs; now roll 
 in grated Parmesan cheese, then in egg and 
 bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Serve with 
 white sauce. Probable cost, 2s. 
 ASPIC JELLY. 
 
 Put a knuckle-bone of veal, a knuckle-bone of 
 ham, a calf's foot, four cloves stuck into one 
 large onion, one large carrot, and a bunch of 
 savoury herbs, in two quarts of water, and boil 
 gently until it is reduced rather more than half. 
 Strain, and put it aside to cool. Very carefully 
 remove every particle of fat or sediment, and 
 place the jelly in a saucepan with a glass of 
 white wine, a table-spoonful of tarragon vine- 
 gar, salt and pepper to taste, and the whites of 
 two eggs. Keep stirring until it nearly boils, 
 which may be known by its becoming white, 
 then. draw it to the side of the fire,, and simmer 
 gently for a quarter of an hour. Put on the 
 cover, let it stand to settle, and strain through 
 a jelly-bag two or three times if necessary, until ■ 
 it is quite clear. Put it into a mould which 
 has been soaked in cold water. Many small 
 things are set in aspic, such as prawns, fillets , 
 of soles, cutlets, the remains of game, poultry, 
 etc. Time, four or five hours. Sufficient for two 
 and a half pints of jelly. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 
 ASPIC JELLY (a quick way of making). 
 
 Take a pint of nicely-flavoured, clear stock, 
 put it into a saucepan with a glass of white 
 wine, and a dessert-spoonful of tarragon vine- 
 gar. Put a large table-spoonful of gelatine 
 with two of water, let it swell, then stir it in 
 with the stock till it is dissolved; add the whites 
 and crushed shells of two eggs, draw it back, 
 and let it simmer for ten minutes ; strain 
 through a jelly-bag till clear, and pour it into 
 a mould that has been soaked in cold water. 
 Time to make, about half an hour. Sufficient for , 
 a pint and a half of jelly. Probable cost lOd. 
 
 ASPIC JELLY FOR GARNISHING. 
 
 Take two pints of nicely-flavoured stock, of a 
 clear and firm jelly; put this into a saucepan 
 with a blade of mace, a table-spoonful of tar- 
 ragon vinegar, and a glass of sherry. Let it boil, 
 then stir into it an ounce of the best gelatine 
 
ATH 
 
 35 
 
 AUR 
 
 which has been soaked in a little cold water. 
 When again, cool add the whisked whites of two 
 eggs, let it hoil, then draw it on one side to 
 settle, strain through a jelly-bag; nntil quite 
 clear, and pour it on a dish -which has been 
 standing in cold water. Cut it into dice for 
 garnishing. Time to make, about an hour. 
 Suificient for two and a half pints of jelly. 
 Probable cost, lOd without the wine. 
 
 ATHOLE BROSE. 
 
 Upon virgin honeycomb pour the oldest pro- 
 curable French brandy and the best old Scotch 
 whisky in equal proportions. Allow this mix- 
 ture to stand for five or six days in a large 
 earthen pipkin in a cool place, strain it, and 
 it is ready for drinking. 
 
 ATHOLE CAKES (VERY GOOD). 
 
 Mix two table-spoonfuls of finely-sifted sugar, 
 with half a pound of maize-meal, and a heaped 
 tea-spoonful of the best baking-powder. Shred 
 finely the thin rind of a lemon and a small piece 
 of candied peel. Stir in another bowl six 
 ounces of butter to a cream, mix with it the 
 above ingredients, and last of all, add two well- 
 beaten eggs. Well oil patty-pans, put a piece 
 about the size of a walnut into each, and bake 
 in a good oven for five or six minutes. Probable 
 cost. Is. Sufficient for two dozen cakes. 
 
 AUBERGINES. 
 
 This delicate and delicious vegetable is rapidly 
 coming into favour in this country. The best 
 are dark purple in colour. They are extensively 
 eaten in France and the south of Europe. They 
 may be braised, grilled, fried, boiled, and 
 dressed in a great variety of ways. 
 
 AUBERGINES AU GRATIN. 
 
 Put four aubergines into a pan of hot water, 
 and boil for ten minutes. Then take them out 
 of the water and let them get cold. Next cut 
 each in half and take out the seeds. Brush each 
 half over with some warmed butter and arrange 
 them neatly in a fire-proof dish and put a layer 
 of grated cheese on each half. Put the dish in 
 a quick oven and bake till the aubergines are 
 soft, probably about ten minutes. Pour over 
 them some good brown sauce and serve in the 
 dish in which they were cooked. Cost, Is. for 
 eight portions. 
 
 AUBERGINES, FRIED. 
 
 Peel some fresh aubergines, and cut them in 
 four slices lengthways. Salt a little, let them 
 drain, then wipe with a clean cloth. Dip in 
 yolk of egg and flour, and plunge into boning 
 fat to cook to a golden brown. Pile them in a 
 heap on a napkin, and dish and serve very hoi. 
 Probable cost, 3d. each. 
 
 AUBERGINES, STUFFED. 
 
 Cut the aubergines into halves lengthways, 
 and scoop out carefully all the seeds and pulp ; 
 put these into a basin, and mix them with one 
 ounce of bread-crumbs, one ounce of minced 
 ham, one tea-spoonful of mixed herbs, and 
 pepper and salt to taste; blend with one egg, 
 fill the aubergines with this mixture, put little 
 pieces of butter here and there, and bake in a 
 moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour. 
 Probable cost. Is. for eight portions. 
 
 AUBERGINES WITH POACHED EGGS. 
 
 Cut three aubergines in halves lengthways, 
 and remove the pips. Cook them till tender in 
 salted water, take up and drain on a sieve. 
 Mix one gill of tomato pulp with one ounce of 
 bread-crumbs and two ounces of chopped ham, 
 warm up with half an ounce of butter, and re- 
 duce a little. Season with pepper and salt, and 
 fill the cavities of the aubergines with this. Put 
 the aubergines on a dish, sprinkle with chopped 
 parsley, and place in a hot oven for. five minutes. 
 Place one poached egg carefully on each half, 
 garnish with parsley, and serve hot. Probable 
 cost. Is. 9d. 
 AUNT ALICE'S PUDDING. 
 
 Place a little jam at the bottom of a pie-dish. 
 Mix three table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs, one 
 table-spoonful of sugar, a little chopped lemon- 
 rind, the juice of half a lemon with two eggs, 
 and a tea-cupful of milk. Pour it over the jam, 
 and bake in a good oven. A very nice pudding 
 may be made by substituting pieces of stale 
 bread for the bread-crumbs. Soak two or three 
 pieces in the milk, beat well with a fork, and 
 add the other ingredients^ Time to bake, three- 
 quarters of an hour. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. Probable cost, 8d. 
 AUNT KATE'S PUDDING. 
 
 Butter a. pudding basin, and lay in four 
 stale sponge cakes, neatly sliced. Sprinkle here 
 and there some small cubes of preserved 
 ginger; and before putting the top layer of 
 cake add a large table-spoonful of apricot jam. 
 Beat up one large egg, and stir into half a 
 pint of boiling milk. Add a dessert-spoonful 
 of sugar, and pour this custard over the cake. 
 Cover with a buttered paper, and steam for an 
 hour. Serye with jam sauce to which an ounce 
 of ginger, cut very small, has been added. 
 
 AUNT MARY'S PUDDING. 
 
 Well butter a plain mould, and stick alter- 
 nate layers of raisins and sliced almonds round 
 it. Pour a breakfast-cupful of warm fresh milk 
 over a tea-cupful of finely grated bread-crumbs. 
 Let them soak for a little while, then add a 
 small piece of butter, a dessert-spoonful of 
 sugar, a little thinly grated lemon-rind, and 
 two eggs. Beat all well together, pour the 
 mixture into the mould, cover it closely, and 
 allow it to steam for three hours. Probable 
 cost, 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 AUNT SUSIE'S PUDDING. 
 
 Beat a quarter of a pound of butter to a 
 cream. Stir gradually into it two table-spoon- 
 fuls of ground rice, and the same of fine flour, 
 sugar to taste, the thin rind of half a, lemon 
 chopped small, two ounces of candied orange- or 
 citron-peel, a breakfast-cupful of new milk, and 
 two well-beaten eggs. Flavour with a few drops 
 of essence of almonds, pour the mixture into a 
 well-oiled mould, tie in a cloth, and boil it. 
 Turn out, and serve with sweet sauce. A little 
 brandy will be an improvement. Time to boil, 
 two hours. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for 
 four or live persons. 
 
 AURELIAN CAKE. 
 
 Mix half a pound of ground rice and half a, 
 pound of loaf sugar well' together. Add to 
 
AUR 
 
 36 
 
 AUT 
 
 them the well-whisked yolks of twelve and the 
 whites of seven eggs, with a little brandy and 
 a few drops of essence of almonds. Stir the 
 whole well together for quite twenty minutes. 
 Pour the mixture into a well-oiled mould, and 
 bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, half an 
 hour. Probable cost, Is. 8d. Sufficient for a 
 medium-sized mould. 
 
 AURORA SAUCE. 
 
 Pound the spawn of a freshly-boiled lobster 
 in a mortar, with a piece of butter the size of 
 an egg, until it is quite smooth, and season 
 liberally with cayenne and salt. Put into a 
 saucepan a breakfast-cupful of good white sauce, 
 and add a table-spoonful of lemon-juice. . Press 
 the spawn through a fine sieve into the sauce; 
 place it on the fire, and let it simmer gently, 
 taking care to lift it off the fire before it boils. 
 Sufficient for a pair of soles. Probable cost, lOd. 
 Time to simmer, two minutes. 
 
 If the spawn is not at hand, the yolks of three 
 eggs may be boiled quite hard, pressed through 
 a colander, and substituted for it. 
 
 AUSTRALIAN HARICOT. 
 
 Take three pounds of Australian mutton, 
 choosing neck for preference, and cut this 
 into small cutlets. Melt . two ounces of good 
 dripping in a pan, and fry the cutlets in this 
 till nicely brown. Slice up and fry one large 
 Spanish onion, three carrots, two turnips, and 
 two potatoes. Drain the fat away from these, 
 and put into a stew-pan, together with a quart 
 of water. Mix a table-spoonful of flour with 
 a little cold water; and when the water in 
 the stew-pan boils, stir this in, and continue 
 to stir till it begins to thicken. Add salt and 
 pepper to taste. Now add the cutlets, and 
 simmer for an hour. Put the meat into the 
 middle of a dish, place the vegetables round, 
 and pour the gravy over. A border of mashed 
 potatoes, or boiled rice, makes a nice addition. 
 
 AUSTRALIAN MEAT (FROZEN). 
 
 Of late years there has been an enormous 
 development of the importation of fresh meat 
 from Australia, New Zealand, South America, 
 the United States, and Canada, owing to the 
 insufficiency of home-bred meat for home eon- 
 sumption. The principal method by which it is 
 preserved during the long period of transit is 
 refrigeration. Everyone knows how much more 
 rapidly meat becomes tainted in hot weather 
 than in cold. Indeed, in tropical countries it 
 is generally difficult to keep meat long enough 
 to get rid of the toughened rigidity which per- 
 vades muscular fibre after death, and which in 
 our climate takes one or two days to subside. 
 Hence a cool larder makes a very great differ- 
 ence in the time for which provisions may be 
 kept. By means of refrigerators on ocean-going 
 steamships the temperature of the storage com- 
 partments may be kept down to a point below 
 freezing, even during the hot passage through 
 the Indian Ocean and the Red Sea. It may be 
 well to remark that, according to the most 
 reliable authorities, a uniform temperature 
 several degrees above freezing point, say 38" F., 
 is sufficiently cold to prevent decomposition. 
 
 The popular prejudice against foreign meat 
 has now almost entirely disappeared, and the 
 
 low price at which it can be sold enables thou- 
 sands of families to have a good meat dinner 
 daily, when otherwise beef or mutton would be 
 rarely seen upon their tables. It must be ad- 
 mitted, however, that foreign meat cannot com- 
 pare, as regards quality or flavour, with home- 
 bred and home-fed meat. Apart from the 
 coarser, ranker herbage of foreign ranches and 
 sheep-farms, there can be no doubt that the 
 process of freezing, by solidifying the natural 
 juices of the animal, exercises a deteriorating 
 influence upon the constituents of the meat 
 which no subsequent treatment has been found 
 entirely to remedy. 
 
 Frozen meat should be carefully and slowly 
 thawed by immersion in cold water, and then 
 wiped dry, and hung up in the larder with the 
 cut end uppermost, in order to preserve the 
 juices, which would otherwise run out. In 
 cooking, the pores should be closed by the 
 application of great heat for a. few minutes, 
 and the joint should then be cooked very 
 slowly. Foreign meat has usually a, coarser 
 grain and duller colour than home meat, the 
 surface is usually moist, owing to the escaping 
 juices, and it is flabby to the touch. 
 AUSTRIAN CHERRY CAKE, 
 
 Beat up ten ounces of bread crumbs, the 
 yolks of four eggs, and five ounces of castor 
 sugar; then mix in the whisked whites of 
 seven eggs, and finely chopped lemon peel. 
 Finally add a quarter of a pound of dark, juicy 
 cherries (stoned). [Any other fruits may be 
 used in the same way.] Put into a well- 
 buttered mould, leaving plenty of room fqr 
 rising. Serve hot or cold. To test the cake, 
 pass a wooden skewer to the bottom, through 
 the centre, and if it comes out clean the cake 
 is done. Cost, about Is. to Is. 3d. 
 
 AUSTRIAN PUDDING. 
 
 Mix one pound of fiour with a quarter of a 
 pound of finely-shredded suet. Add a pinch of 
 salt, a heaped tea-spoonful of baking-powder, a 
 table-spoonful of chopped lemon-rind, and a 
 table-spoonful of moist sugar. Mix a large 
 breakfast-cupful of lukewarm milk with a cupful 
 of good treacle ; stir it into the flour, pour all 
 into a well-oiled mould, and tie it in a floured 
 cloth. Serve with sweet sauce. Time to boil, 
 three hours. Sufficient for six persons. Prob- 
 able cost, 8d. 
 AUSTRIAN PUFFS. 
 
 Pound three ounces of almonds in a mortar, 
 with a little rose-water. When reduced to a 
 paste, add three table-spoonfuls of finely-sifted 
 sugar, three ounces of butter melted, but not 
 hot, three table-spoonfuls of flour, and a cupful 
 of new milk or cream. Beat all thoroughly 
 together, well oil the patty-pans, and half fill 
 them. Bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient 
 for a dozen puffs. 
 
 AUTUMN SOUP. 
 
 Cut into thin slices the white parts of four 
 leeks, the same of two heads of celery, and a 
 lettuce; wash, and throw them into boiling 
 broth ; add a pint of young peas, a little sugar 
 and pepper, two large spoonfuls of flour, mixed 
 thinly and smooth with some cold stock. Stir 
 
BAB 
 
 37 
 
 BAG 
 
 the broth with a table-spoon to render it smooth, 
 and after boiling it an hour and a half pour it 
 into the tureen with little " crusts " of bread 
 fried in dripping. These last should be care- 
 fully dried m the hot closet so that they shall 
 be crisp and not greasy. Probable cost. Is. 2d., 
 without the stock. 
 
 BABA AU RHUM. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of fine flour ; make 
 a cavity in the centre, and stir into it half an 
 ounce of German yeast, previously dissolved in 
 a little tepid water. Mix and roll into a ball. 
 Wrap this in a cloth loosely, and leave it in a 
 fairly warm place until it has risen to quite 
 twice its original size. Next take three-quarters 
 of a pound of well-dried and sifted self-raising 
 flour. Add to it a good pinch of salt, half a 
 pound of butter in small pieces, one ounce of 
 sifted sugar, and three or four well-beaten eggs, 
 one at a time. Mix lightly, but thoroughly, 
 then add the ball of yeast, together with five 
 beaten eggs, one at a time, and two ounces each 
 of chopped sultanas and candied peel or citron. 
 Knead the paste very thoroughly, and place it 
 in a mould sufficiently large to admit of ita 
 swelling considerably. Leave it in a warm 
 place until it has risen to the top of the mould. 
 Then bake in a moderate oven till done. Turn 
 out carefully, saturate with the following syrup, 
 and leave till cold, then serve. 
 
 The Stbtjp. — Empty the contents of a nine- 
 penny bottle of apricot syrup into d, small 
 enamelled stewpan. Add to it half its quantity 
 of old Jamaica rum, and bring gently to boiling 
 ■point. Then use as directed above. Probable 
 cost, 2s. 
 
 BABA WITH RAISINS. 
 
 Mix half an ounce of German yeast and four 
 ounces of sifted flour with warm water to a soft 
 dough, and put it near the fire to rise. Rub 
 twelve ounces of butter into twelve ounces of 
 flour, work it into a smooth paste with eight 
 well-beaten eggs, one ounce of pounded sugar, 
 and a little salt. When the paste is ready and 
 the sponge sufficiently risen, blend them well 
 together and mix in two ounces of finely-minced 
 candied citron-peel, two ounces of well-dried 
 currants, and three ounces of stoned raisins. 
 Butter a mould, fill it about half full, and 
 allow it to rise until it is nearly at the top, when 
 it may be baked at once in a moderate oven. 
 Time to bake, one hour and a half. Probable 
 cost, 23. 4d. Sufiicient for a three-pint mould. 
 
 BACHELOR'S PUDDING. 
 
 Beat up three eggs and add them, with a 
 flavouring of essence of lemon and grated nut- 
 meg, to four ounces each of finely-minced 
 apples, currants, grated bread-crumbs, and two 
 ounces of sugar. Mix thoroughly and boil in a 
 buttered mould for three hours. Probable cost, 
 9d, Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 BACON, BOILED. 
 
 Put the piece of bacon to be boiled into the 
 pot with sufficient cold water to cover it. Allow 
 it very gradually to come to a boil, removing all 
 
 scum as it arises, and draw it aside to simmer 
 until thoroughly done; then pull off the skin 
 and serve with bread-crumbs over the top. Time 
 to boil two pounds, one hour and a, half; half 
 an hour for each additional pound. 
 
 BACONi BOILED, TO WARM. 
 
 Many people think that bacon once boiled 
 must be eaten cold, but the following mode will 
 show that it is easy to make it an agreeable and 
 also an economical breakfast dish. Cut it into 
 thin slices, sprinkle each slice with fine bread- 
 crumbs, with which a very little cayenne has 
 been mixed, and toast quickly before the fire. 
 A common wire toaster that can be turned with- 
 out displacing the bacon answers best. 
 
 BACON, BROILED. 
 
 Cut streaked bacon into thin slices and lay 
 them on a gridiron over the fire; turn re- 
 peatedly until of a light brown colour, and serve 
 hot. Time to broil, three to four minutes. 
 Probable cost, lOd. to Is. per pound. 
 
 BACON CHEEKS, TO PICKLE. 
 
 To about sixteen pounds of meat, take of 
 salt and sugar each one pound, and one ounce 
 of saltpetre thoroughly blended together ; 
 sprinkle the cheeks well with salt, let them lie 
 till next day, then drain well, and rub in the 
 above ingredients. Turn and rub often, and in 
 three weeks or a month, or less, they will be 
 fit for use. Probable cost of pickle, i^d. 
 
 BACON, CUSHION OF. 
 
 A cushion of bacon weighing about seven 
 pounds should be put into cold water, allowed 
 to simmer for about three hours, then lifted, 
 peeled, and covered with toasted bread-crumbs. 
 
 BACON, MINCED. 
 
 Mince some cold bacon very finely with a little 
 onion, put it into a stewpan with one ounce 
 of bread-crumbs, a few grains of cayenne pepper, 
 and just enough gravy to moisten. Beat it up, 
 and serve on rounds of hot buttered toast. 
 
 BACON OLIVES. 
 
 Cut some very thin slices of bacon, lay the 
 pieces flat, and place a little minced meat of 
 any kind, well seasoned, on each piece ; roll up 
 the bacon tightly, dip in batter, fry a golden 
 brown, and garnish with fried parsley. Prob- 
 able cost, 3d. each. 
 
 BACON ROLLS. 
 
 Take one pound mashed potatoes, and mix 
 therewith one ounce of melted butter and half 
 a beaten egg. Add enough flour to make into a 
 paste ; flour the board and roll it out. Cut it 
 into pieces about eight inches long and four 
 inches broad. Spread thin slices of bacon over 
 each piece, roll them up and bake. Probable 
 cost, 3d. each piece. 
 BACON SAUCE. 
 
 Make a mixture of a spoonful of flour and a 
 little water; add to it vinegar and water in 
 equal parts (one tea-cupful), and the yolks of 
 three eggs well beaten. Cut a. quarter of a 
 pound of rather fat bacon into pieces the size 
 of large peas, and fry them in a stewpan till 
 they are of a pale brown colour. Add salt and 
 pepper to taste, pour the mixture over them, and 
 stir till thick. As this sauce is to be used cold 
 
BAG 
 
 BAG 
 
 allow for it, and do not make it too thick to 
 pour. Probable cost, 6d. 
 BACON, TOASTED. 
 
 Take thin slices of bacon, place them on the 
 pins of an ordinary toaster; turn as required. 
 'Ihey are more delicate if held on a fork before 
 the fire, and if placed between the common wire 
 toasters they can be easily turned when one side 
 is browned. Fat bacon should be cut tolerably 
 thick for toasting or grilling, lean bacon some- 
 what thinner. Serve on a hot dish. Probable 
 cost, lOd. to Is. per pound. 
 BACON, TO CHOOSE. 
 
 Bacon should have firm white fat and a thin 
 rind. It should be of a pale pink colour, if it is 
 very red it is over-salted. The meat should 
 adhere firmly to the bone, and there should be 
 no yellow streaks in it. To judge if a piece of 
 bacon be good, plunge a knife or skewer into 
 it and smell the blade. If it is clean when 
 withdrawn, and has no disagreeable smell the 
 bacon is all right, but if some particles adhere to 
 the knife and the smell is objectionable, reject it. 
 BACON, TO CURE AND KEEP FREE FROM 
 RUST (COBBETT'S RECIPE). 
 
 William Cobbett, in his " Kural Economy," 
 gives the following method of curing bacon. 
 Practical persons highly recommend it : — " Take 
 two sides or flitches of bacon, rub the insides 
 with salt, then place one on the other, the flesh- 
 side uppermost, in a salting-trough which has a 
 gutter round its edges to drain away the brine ; 
 for to have sweet and fine bacon the flitches 
 must not be sopping in brine, which gives it 
 the objectionable taste that barrel and sea-pork 
 have. Everyone knows how different is the 
 taste of fresh dry salt from that of salt in a dis- 
 solved state ; therefore, change the salt often — 
 once in four or five days — let it melt and sink 
 in, but not lie too long; change the flitches 
 every ten days; put that at bottom which was 
 first on the top. This mode will cost a great 
 deal more in salt than the sopping mode, but 
 without it the bacon will not be so sweet and 
 fine, nor keep so well. The time required in 
 making the flitches sufficiently salt depends on 
 circumstances. It takes a longer time for a 
 thick than a thin flitch, and longer in dry than 
 in damp weather, or in a dry than a damp place ; 
 but for the flitches of a hog of seven or eight 
 stones, in weather not very dry or damp, about 
 six weeks may do ; and as the flitches should be 
 fat, it receives little injury from over salting." 
 BACON, TO CUT UP A PIG FOR. 
 
 In a pig of fair size, the chine, which is ex- 
 cellent for roasting or boiling, is cut from be- 
 
 SKCTIONAL DIAGRAM OP BACON PIG. 
 
 A, the Chine. B, the Head. C, the Leg. 
 
 D, the Flitch. E, the Shoulder. 
 
 tween the sides or flitches as shown in th*; dia- 
 gram ; but if the pig is small the flitches should 
 
 be divided down the chine. The shoulders may 
 be left attached to the sides, or separated, ac- 
 cording to the size of the pig. ITie legs are 
 made into hams, and the sides form what is 
 bacon proper. The head or cheek is cither 
 boiled, collared, or pickled. The inner fat is 
 melted for lard ; and the pieces cut off in trim- 
 ming the joints are used for sausages, pies, 
 brawn, and other purposes (see Bbawn, Ham, 
 Laed, Pio's Cheek, Pobk, etc.). 
 BACON, TO SMOKE. 
 
 Bacon and hams may be smoked at home by 
 being hung up in the chimney of a fire in which 
 wood only is burnt. Fir or deal must not be 
 used. The best is oak, and its sawdust, if it can 
 be procured. But the operation is best — ^be- 
 cause more slowly and uniformly — performed in 
 buildings specially constructed for the purpose. 
 The Westphalian hams, principally cured at 
 Hamburg, are smoked in extensive chambers in 
 the upper storeys of high buildings. The smoke 
 is conveyed to these rooms through tubes from 
 fires in the cellar. The vapour is condensed and 
 the heat absorbed; so that the smoke, when it 
 reaches the meat, is dry and cool, and communi- 
 cates a flavour far superior to that obtained by 
 the common method. 
 
 BACON AND BROAD BEANS. 
 
 Put two pounds of good tender bacon into a 
 pan with cold water, nearly full. When it has 
 boiled over one hour add a quart of shelled broad 
 beans, and boil till tender. Take off the skin 
 from the bacon, sprinkle bread-crumbs over the 
 top of it, and serve with the beans under, and 
 fried parsley as a garnish round the dish. 
 Smoked bacon should be dressed separately and 
 placed on the beans when ready. Probable cost 
 of bacon, lOd. to Is. per pound. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 BACON AND BROAD BEANS (another way). 
 
 Throw some young beans, freshly shelled, into 
 boiling water with a little salt. When the skin 
 begins to shrivel drain them through a colander, 
 and serve with parsley and butter. When the 
 beans are old the outside skins will come off 
 easily if boiled for half an hour. The bacon 
 should be boiled separately (see Boiled Bacon), 
 and placed on the top of the beans. Time to 
 boil the beans, fifteen to twenty minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, 6d. to 8d. per peck. 
 
 BACON AND CALF'S LIVER. 
 
 Tlie most economical way to prepare this is 
 to fry the bacon first and make the fat serve for 
 the liver, which, as well as the bacon, should 
 be cut into thin slices. Fry the bacon, and re- 
 m.ove it as soon as it is done enough to a hot 
 dish before the fire ; flour and pepper the liver, 
 and place it in the pan; turn frequently until 
 done, then place a slice of bacon on each slice 
 of liver. Make a gravy by pouring off the fat 
 and dredging a little flour into the pan, pour 
 in enough water to supply the quantity of |[ravy 
 desired, add a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, 
 boil and pour upon the dish. Garnish with force- 
 meat or slices of lemon. Time, from five to ten 
 minutes. Cost, bacon. Is., liver, lOd. per pound. 
 
 BACON AND EGGS. 
 
 Place nicely-cut slices of streaked bacon, from 
 which the lind has been cut oS to prevent it 
 
BAG 
 
 39 
 
 BAI 
 
 from curling up, into a cold pan over a slow 
 fire ; turn frequently and serve with eggs, whicli 
 may be poached or fried, and laid on the bacon. 
 Time, three or four minutes. Bacon, Is. per 
 pound. 
 
 BACON AND EGGS, OR HAM OR SAUSAGE 
 AND EGGS. 
 
 This may be called a "country dish." In 
 Devonshire and Cornwall it is the standing one 
 when all others fail. A nice dish of bacon and 
 eggs is to be had at every wayside house. It 
 too often happens that this very plain repast 
 is indifferently cooked. When the bacon or ham 
 is fried see that the fat be quite free from burn 
 before the eggs are slipped into it; baste them 
 with the fat, trim them and drain the grease 
 before dishing. Sausages should be slowly 
 dressed, or they are apt to burst, and so spoil 
 the appearance of a savoury meal. Serve with 
 mashed potatoes round the dish. Time, about 
 five minutes. Probable cost of bacon, lOd. to 
 Is- per pound ; sausages, lOd. per pound. 
 
 .OACON AND MACARONI. 
 
 Break four ounces of Italian macaroni into 
 small pieces, and put into a saucepan of boil- 
 ing water, slightly salted. Cook for five minutes, 
 then drain and cool. Boil up half a pint of 
 stock, skim, and add the macaroni, cook till 
 quite tender but not pulpy. Slice four ounces 
 of streaky bacon thinly, cut it into small dice, 
 and fry a little in a saute-pan. Add the cooked 
 macaroni and one ounce of butter, season with 
 pepper, salt and nutmeg, and stir carefully over 
 the fire until a nice brown. Turn on to a hot 
 dish and serve. Probable cost, 6d; 
 
 BACON OR HAM OMELET. 
 
 Beat six eggs, and add a small tea-spoonful 
 of flour mixed with a table'-spoonful of milk or 
 water, and pepper and salt to taste. Mince half 
 a pound of cold boiled bacon or ham. and stir 
 it in with the eggs. Dissolve a good piece of 
 butter or fat in the omelet-pan and pour in the 
 omelet. Shake the pan while dressing. In three 
 or four minutes the sides may be folded over^ 
 and the omelet turned out on a hot dish, or 
 taken up with a flat spoon. Some cooks prefer 
 to put the bacon or ham in the middle and fold 
 the sides over it. This kind of omelet may be 
 made with a variety of ingredients : cold meat, 
 kidney, green-peas, asparagus toj)s, small mush- 
 rooms, oysters, and lobster. Time, from three 
 to four minutes. 
 
 BACON PUDDING. , 
 
 Cut up four ounces of lean bacon, four 
 uncooked potatoes, and one large onion. Make 
 a good suet'pastej roll out; and cover with the 
 mixture. Add pepper and salt and a table- 
 spoonful of minced herbs, parsley, thyme, sage, 
 and marjoram. Koll up, tie in a cloth, and 
 boil for two hours. Serve with thick gravy. 
 
 3ACON OR HAM, TO CURE (Devonshire way). 
 Draw away all the slime and blood from two 
 hams by rubbing them well with salt for two 
 days before they are put into the pickle. Drain 
 them; lay them in a pan, and pour over them 
 boiling hot- the following ingredients : two 
 pounds of treacle, two ounces, of saltpetre, one 
 
 pound of common salt, and one pint of good 
 vinegar; turn and baste them every day for a 
 month, then drain and smoke. Time to salt, 
 one month. Probable cost of pickle. Is. Sufti- 
 cient for a ham of sixteen pounds weight. 
 
 BACON OR HAM, TO CURE (Wiltshire way). 
 
 The excellence of bacon depends to a great 
 degree upon the care with which the meat is 
 drained from blood and slime before it is salted. 
 The amount of salt used is not so important if 
 this be well attended to, as will be seen by the 
 Wiltshire mode. The quantity of salt for a 
 whole pig is one pound and a half of bay salt, 
 and one pound of common salt to six ounces of 
 saltpetre, and one pound and a half of the 
 coarsest brown sugar or treacle. Strew common 
 salt over the bacon, and let it drain a day and 
 night. Powder ,the bay salt and saltpetre, and 
 mix them thoroughly with the other salt and 
 sugar. When well blended, rub each piece of 
 bacon and lay them together in a trough. Turn 
 every alternate day for a month. Smoke nine 
 days. Sufficient for the flitches of one pig of 
 ten or twelve stones. 
 
 BAIN MARIE PAN. 
 
 The Bain Marie is a shallow vessel generally 
 made of copper, which is used for keeping 
 sauces, stews, etc., hot when they are already 
 sufficiently cooked, and it is not convenient that 
 they should be immediately served. It will be 
 found most valuable in those families where 
 regularity and punctuality in meals cannot be 
 depended upon, as it affords the best means of 
 keeping dishes hot without ; destroying their 
 flavour or burning them. When it is to be used 
 the Bain Marie should be filled with boiling 
 water, and the pans containing the sauces or 
 entrees should be put into it closely covered. 
 
 BAIN MAKIE PAN. 
 
 It should then be put upon a hot plate or by 
 the side of the fire, to keep up the heat of the 
 water without allowing it to boil, and should 
 there remain until the dishes are wanted. The 
 principle of the Bain Marie may be adopted for 
 keeping sauces and gravies warm when a proper 
 pan is not at hand. Instead of retaining the 
 compounds slowly simmering by the side of the 
 fire in the pan in which it was made, by which 
 means it would in all probability be either 
 smoked, burnt, or rendered flavourless, put it 
 into a basin or iar, cover it closely and place it in 
 a pan of boiling water. . If the water is allowed 
 to boil the sauce or gravy will become too thick. 
 Price of the Bain Marie.; Block tin, with copper 
 pan, soup pot, and glaze pot stewpans, £2 15b. 
 Strong copper from 27..1QS. to iElO 5Si. 
 
BAK 
 
 40 
 
 BAN 
 
 BAKE, TO. ' 
 
 Baking is a most convenient, economical, and 
 satisfactory mode of cooking certain dishes to 
 which it is suited, otherwise it is most unsatis- 
 factory and unprofitable. For pastry, cakes, 
 and various puddings an oven is indispensable, 
 and many meat dishes are as well cooked in it 
 as before the fire. Amongst these may be men- 
 tioned the following : » hare, a leg of pork, a 
 breast or fillet of veal, a goose, a duck, a suck- 
 ing-pig, a shoulder of mutton and potatoes, and 
 many kinds of fish. Gravies, too, soups, beef- 
 tea, and stock for calf's foot jeliy may be ad- 
 vantageously cooked in a slow oven, if put into 
 a jar with a closely-fitting lid, and allowed to 
 remain long enough. There is, however, no 
 doubt that ordinary joints of meat, if baked in 
 an oven which is not well ventilated, and which 
 is not so constructed that the fumes are carried 
 away up the chimney, have » peculiar taste 
 which is not palatable. It has been said 
 that meat loses less in weight and more in 
 flavour by baking than by any other mode of 
 cooking. A little extra seasoning should there- 
 fore be added if a dish is to be cooked in this 
 way. A baking-dish ought to be deep enough to 
 cover the joint to the extent of an inch, and 
 thus keep the juices from drying up. If 
 the oven be very hot, cover the meat with 
 a piece of white paper well greased, and 
 take it off in time to let the outside brown 
 before serving. It is well to adopt this plan 
 with large pies and cakes also, so that they 
 may not be browned before they are sufficiently 
 cooked, remembering only to let the pastry in 
 pies set before the paper is put on. Pastry re- 
 quires a tolerably quick oven to prevent its 
 becoming heavy. If too quick, however, the 
 steam cannot escape. All large cakes should 
 be baked in a moderate oven, or the outside will 
 be hard before the middle is ready. In order to 
 ascertain whether these are sufficiently cooked 
 put a skewer or knitting-needle into the middle, 
 and if when this is drawn out any moisture 
 adheres to it the cake must be baked longer. 
 All light cakes, such as sponge-cakes, cheese- 
 cakes, etc., should be put into a brisk oven until 
 they have risen. The heat may then go down a 
 little. Never open the door of an oven in which 
 anything is being cooked in order to lessen the 
 heat; rather decrease the fire. 
 
 BAKER'S ROLLS, AMERICAN. 
 
 Well dry two pounds of fiour. Add two table- 
 spoonfuls of yeast, a little salt, and half a tea- 
 spoonful of bicarbonate of soda, dissolved in 
 water. Mix all lightly together with a pint of 
 milk and water ; knead it well and set it on the 
 hearth to rise, covering the bowl in which the 
 dough is placed with a towel. Then make it 
 up into about twelve rolls. Bake in a quick 
 oven. Time to bake, quarter of an hour. Suf- 
 ficient for twelve rolls. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 BAKEWELL PUDDING. 
 
 Mix a pint of milk with the volks and whites 
 of four eggs beaten separately. Add three 
 ounces of finely-sifted sugar, three ounces of 
 butter, which should be first melted, and one 
 ounce of well-pounded almonds. Lay three- 
 quarters of a pint of bread-crumbs in a dish 
 
 with a little preserved fruit over, and fill up 
 with the mixture. Bake one hour in a moderate 
 oven. Probable cost, about Is. 6d. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 BAKEWELL PUDDING, RICH. 
 
 Line a tart-dish with puff-paste, lay on it any 
 kind of preserved fruit; get ready a quarter of 
 a pound of melted butter, six ounces of finely- 
 sifted sugar, and one ounce of almonds; add 
 these ingredients to six yolks and two whites 
 of eggs which have been thoroughly well beaten. 
 Mix all together and fill up the dish. Bake 
 carefully for one hour in a moderate oven. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 BAKING POWDERS. 
 
 Baking powders are now so well and fre- 
 quently prepared by good makers, and can be 
 bought readily in large or small packets, that 
 it is almost needless to give instructions for 
 making them. For the benefit of those, how- 
 ever, who prefer home-made preparations, the 
 following recipe is given, and will be found 
 both excellent and economic : — Crush half a 
 pound of tartaric acid to a fine powder, and 
 mix with it three-quarters of a pound of carbon- 
 ate of soda and three-quarters of a pound of 
 ground rice Put the mixture into a tin box, and 
 store it in a dry place. When wanted, use a 
 heaped tea-spoonful of the powder with each 
 pound of material. Probable cost, lOd. per 
 pound. 
 BAKING POWDER SCONES. 
 
 Make a dough of a pound and a, half of 
 flour, three-quarters of a pint of cold milk 
 and water (mixed), two tea-spoonfuls of baking 
 jiowder, a little salt, and an ounce and a half of 
 fat of any kind, rubbing this well in. Form the 
 dough into three rounds nearly an inch thick, 
 and cut each into four, and bake in a quick oven 
 for twenty minutes or so. Currants, sugar and 
 more fat may be added for better scones. 
 
 BANANA, THE. 
 
 The banana is becoming extremely popular 
 and even fashionable as a fruit food. In the 
 United States it is mostly eaten baked, toasted, 
 fried, or boiled. When properly cooked the 
 American doctors recommend it as an ideal 
 food for nervous people and brain workers. It 
 is fresher and cheaper in the States than here, 
 being so much nearer the seats of its produc- 
 tion. The sugar planters of the West Indies 
 are now profitably turning their attention to 
 the cultivation of this fruit. Medical men 
 advise that bananas should be eaten in a very 
 ripe condition, and in their native countries 
 they are seldom eaten before the skin is dis- 
 coloured and the pulp so soft that it can be 
 scooped out with a spoon. Certainly there is 
 a much greater delicacy of flavour attached to 
 the fruit when in its fully ripened condition. 
 Banana^sellers have a room set apart for the 
 ripening of the fruit, as it quickly spoils if 
 exposed to extremes of heat or cold, and if 
 chilled whilst still green the flavour is ruined. 
 Delicious jam can be made from ripe bananas; 
 and with figs they make a very nice preserve. 
 Banana wine is a very palatable drink. 
 
BAN 
 
 41 
 
 BAN 
 
 BANANA CREAM. 
 
 Put a quarter of an ounce of soaked gelatine 
 with one gill of double cream, and whisk 
 till stiff; then mix with one pint of sweetened 
 thick custard, four bananas peeled and cut 
 into slices about a, quarter of an inch thick, 
 and the juice of half a lemon. Mix well, 
 and when just beginning to set pour the mix- 
 ture into a wetted mould. When cold, turn 
 out, and decorate with little heaps of whipped 
 cream of different colours. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 BANANA CREAM ICE. 
 
 Peel eight ripe bananas and rub them through 
 a sieve into a basin, add the juice of two lemons 
 and a small glass of cura^oa; stir one pint of 
 custard into this. Whip half a pint of cream, 
 and add it last. Put the mixture in a freezer 
 and freeze in the usual manner. Serve in a 
 pile, or in cups, or mould it if preferred. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 BANANA CUSTARD. 
 
 Cook three ounces of rice and two ounces of 
 sugar in one pint of milk until soft, then add 
 one ounce of butter; let it cool, then spread it 
 over a glass diSh and cover with sliced bananas ; 
 sprinkle some castor sugar over, then pour over 
 it one gill of brandy, and over that some thick 
 custard. Probable cost. Is. 8d. 
 
 BANANA JELLY. 
 
 Grate the peel of one lemon. Cut up the pulp 
 of two lemons in small pieces, removing the 
 pith, skin, and pips; put them in a glazed or 
 enamelled pan, with the grated peel, one ounde 
 of gelatine, half a pound of white sugar, and 
 a pint and a half of water. Boil the jelly 
 quietly, without the lid, until it is reduced to 
 something less than a pint. Remove any scum 
 that arises. When reduced, draw the pan to 
 . one side, and skim the jelly as it clears. Peel 
 three large bananas, which should be very ripe, 
 and cut them across in very thin slices. Strain 
 the jelly on to the sliced bananas, mix together, 
 aid let them stand for ten minutes. Pour the 
 jelly into a wetted mould, and stand in a cold 
 place, or on ice, to set. It will take about six 
 hours to set, and is better for standing longer. 
 Turn out the jelly, and serve with half a pint 
 of whipped cream. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 
 BANANA SALAD. 
 
 Add one dessert-spoonful of oil by degrees to 
 an equal quantity of vinegar, mixing carefully 
 till they are thoroughly incorporated, then add 
 a tea^spoonful of sugar. Peel three bananas, 
 which should be quite ripe, and slice them 
 across in equal slices of medium thickness, 
 place them in a dish and pour the dressing over 
 them. Dust them with a little pepper and salt. 
 This salad should be served as soon as possible 
 after being made. 
 
 BANANA TRIFLE. 
 
 Butter a pie-dish and line it with slices of 
 sponge cake; put a layer of sliced bananas on 
 top, then some apricot jam; squeeze a little 
 lemon juice over, then another layer of sponge- 
 cake, cover with pieces of butter, and bake in 
 a moderate oven iov half an hour. When cold, 
 serve with whipped cream. 
 
 BANANAS, BAVAROISE OF. 
 
 Boil up a quart of milk, add two ounces of 
 sugar, wet two ounces of cornflour with a little 
 cold milk, and stir into the boiling milk. Stir 
 over the fire until it thickens, and add the yolks 
 of two eggs, and half a tea-spoonful of vanilla 
 essence. Let the eggs bind, and set aside to 
 cool. Peel two bananas, and cut into thin 
 slices, mix with the above, and fill into one or 
 two wetted moulds. When quite cold, immerse 
 the moulds in tepid water, turn out on a dish, 
 and serve with a cold fruit syrup. Probable 
 cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 BANANAS, FRIED. 
 
 Cut six bananas into halves lengthways, 
 strew some castor sugar over, dip in a rich 
 batter, and fry in very hot butter for four or 
 five minutes. Dish up and strew a little cochi- 
 neal sugar over. Probable coat, la. 
 
 BANANAS, FRIED (American recipe). 
 
 Choose six large firm bananas. Peel, and 
 cut into slices lengthways. Fry in a little 
 butter or with bacon until they begin to brown. 
 Serve with the bacon or alone, as preferred. 
 Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 
 BANANA AND ORANGE PUDDING. 
 
 Peel six bananas and four oranges, and cut 
 them into thin slices. Carefully remove the 
 seeds from the oranges. Arrange them in alter- 
 nate layers in a glass dish, sprinkling each layer 
 with castor sugar. Make a custard by boiling 
 one pint of milk, three eggs, and sugar. Fla- 
 vour with vanilla. When cold pour it over the 
 bananas and oranges. Whipped cream, sweet- 
 ened and flavoured, may be used in place of 
 the custard if preferred. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 BANANAS WITH CREAiVI. 
 
 Put a layer of sliced bananas in a glass dish, 
 then some strawberry jam; over this a rich 
 custard, and then some clotted or whipped 
 cream. Garnish with dried cherries and slices 
 of citron. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 BANBURY CAKES. 
 
 These rich, well-known cakes are prepared 
 from a mince called Banbury meat, made with 
 the following ingredients: half a pound of 
 butter beaten to a cream, half a pound of lemoa 
 and orange-peel cut up fine, one pound of cur- 
 rants, half an ounce of cinnamon, two and a 
 half ounces of allspice. Mix all thoroughly, and! 
 keep it in a covered jar for use. The paste for 
 these buns should be tolerably rich, rolled out 
 thin, and cut into rounds or squares. To a layer 
 of the mince, put on one round, cover over with 
 another. Flatten with the hand, and moiatera 
 the edges with white of egg to make them 
 adhere. Before putting into the oven brush-the 
 cakes over with the froth of eggs and sugar. 
 They will take fifteen minutes to bake, and may 
 be eaten hot or cold. 
 
 BANNOCKS, SCOTCH. 
 
 Take some oatmeal, add a pinch of salt and 
 a little carbonate of soda, mix into a stiff dougb 
 with milk or water, roll out into thin cakes, and 
 bake on a hot griddle until they are of a light 
 brown on both sides. If a griddle is not avail- 
 able take a slide out of the oven, place it om 
 
BAR 
 
 42 
 
 BAR 
 
 the top of the stove, and bake the cakes on it. 
 Probable cost per dozen, 5d. 
 
 BARBERRIES, TO CANDY. 
 
 Take some preserved barberries, wash them in 
 •warm water to cleanse them from the syrup, 
 and cover with dry finely-powdered sugar. Put 
 them quickly into a moderalelj-heated oven, 
 keeping them well sprinkled with sugar, and 
 turning frequently. 
 
 BARBERRIES, TO PRESERVE. 
 
 To every two pounds of fruit take four and a 
 half pounds of powdered loaf sugar, throw some 
 of it over the barberries to be preserved, and 
 with the remainder make a, strong syrup in the 
 proportion of a, pint of water to a pound of 
 sugar. Put the barberries into it, and make 
 them boil as quickly as possible, that they may 
 not lose colour ; then fill the jars for use. Prob- 
 able cost, 4d. to 5d. per pint. 
 
 BARBERRY CREAM. 
 
 This pleasant sharp cream is made by mixing 
 one pint of cream, half a pint of barberry jelly, 
 end half an ounce of isinglass. Stir over a slow 
 fire until the isinglass is dissolved. When re- 
 moved from the fire add a little cochineal, if 
 required. Sweeten to taste, beat to a froth, and 
 pour into a mould to set. 'Probable cost, 3s. 
 Sufficient, for a large mould. 
 
 BARBERRY JAM. 
 
 Take equal quantities of barberries and good 
 finely-pounded sugar; heat gently and boil 
 together ten minutes. Take off the scum, put 
 the jam into pots,' tying down with thick paper. 
 Probable cost of barberries, from 4d. to 5d. per 
 pint. 
 
 SARBERRY JELLY. 
 
 The fruit should be quite ripe. Strip the 
 berries, wash them in clear spring water, and 
 put them into a jar with only the water that 
 ■clings to them. Place the jar in a vessel of boil- 
 ing water; cover the top of the jar, and in one 
 hour they will be fit to strain. To every pound 
 of juice put one pound and a quarter of sugar; 
 boil quickly five minutes. Probable cost of bar- 
 berries, 4d. to 5d. per pint. 
 
 BARBERRY MARMALADE. 
 
 Take one pound of nice ripe barberries ; boil, 
 but do not crush them, in a quarter of a pint of 
 cold water. When they are sufiiciently soft re- 
 move them from the pan, and use the' water, 
 with enough fresh, to make a pint of syrup. 
 Boil it with a pound and a half of sugar ; then 
 put in the fruit aiid boil for fifteen minutes. 
 Probable cost, 4d. to 5d. per pint. 
 
 BARDING. 
 
 The operation known as barding consists in 
 ■enveloping the article, usually poultry or game, 
 in bacon or bacon fat. It is very useful for dry 
 meats, especially where it is not possible to 
 constantly baste them, as, for instance, when 
 they are cooked in the oven. The bacon should 
 be free from saltpetre, and the slices should be 
 thinly and evenly cut. 
 
 BARLEY BROTH, SCOTCH. 
 
 Get a scrag end of neck of mutton, cut off the 
 test of the chops, and lay them oh one side. 
 
 Put the remainder of the mutton into four 
 quarts of cold water, add half a pound of Scotch 
 barley and sufficient salt. Let it come to the 
 boil, and boil gently for one hour. Skim it 
 well, put in one carrot grated and one cut into 
 dice, one turnip cut in small pieces, two leeks 
 chopped up, and one onion. Let all boil another 
 hour, put in the chops and four pints of green 
 peas, and let it simmer another hour. Put in 
 a little chopped parsley last of all. Take out 
 the bones, and serve in a tureen. If old peas 
 are used, they should be soaked overnight and 
 put in with the barley. Probable cost, 3b. 
 
 BARLEY GRUEL. 
 
 The colour and taste of gruel is much im- 
 proved by washing the seeds and throwing off 
 the first water after it has boiled a few minutes. 
 Boil three ounces of pearl barley in a pint of 
 water for ten minutes, then throw it off and put 
 to it two quarts of boiling water. When re- 
 duced one half it will be sufficiently boiled. 
 Strain, add sugar, lemon-peel, or wine to taste, 
 and simmer for a few minutes. 
 
 BARLEY MEAL SCONES. 
 
 The preparation of these wholesome cakes is 
 a very simple process. The barley meal, with 
 the addition of salt to taste, should' be' mixed 
 with hot milk till it forms a thick paste. Eoll 
 out thin and cut into scones. Bake in a "luick 
 oven or on a griddle over a bright fire. They 
 should be buttered and eaten hot. 
 
 BARLEY SUGAR. 
 
 Dissolve lump sugar, boil and skim it until 
 it is crisp and clear, and no scum rises ; test 
 the crispness by dr<:>p{)ing some into cold water. 
 Flavour with lemon-juice or essence of lemon. 
 Pour the sugar on a slate, stone, or marble 
 slab, which has been rubbed over with butter 
 or salad-oil ; cut it into strips before it is cold, 
 and twist. If marked with a knife it will break 
 easily, and may be made into any form. Time, 
 ten to fifteen miiiutea. Sugar, 4d. per pound. 
 
 BARLEY WATER. 
 
 Take two ounces of pearl barley, wash it well, 
 and boil for ten minutes in a little water to 
 clear it. When drained put to it five pints of 
 boiling water, and let it boil until reduced to 
 one half. Then strain for use. An excellent 
 pectoral drink is made by boiling the barley as 
 above, and adding the following ingredients: 
 half an ounce of liquorice root, sliced and well 
 bruised.; two ounces of figs, the game of raisins, 
 stoned ; distilled water, one pint, to one quart 
 of the prepared barley water. Let all boil till 
 the liquid is reduced to two pints, then strain 
 for use. If used freely this preparation will he 
 found very efficacious in cases of jnfiammatory 
 attacks of the chest, coughs, etc. Probable cost, 
 4d. per pint. 
 
 BARM, TO MAKE. 
 
 With an ounce of isinglass dissolved in warm 
 water mix half a pound of the best flour. Take 
 two ounces of hops, and boil in a quart of water 
 till it is, reduced one half, then stir all together 
 in a gallon and a half of warm water and a very 
 small quantity of brewer's barm, and put in a 
 warm place for two days. Probable cost, Is. 40. 
 
BAR 
 
 i?. 
 
 BAT 
 
 BARONESS PUDDING. 
 
 Remove all skins from a quarter of a pound 
 of suet, and chop it very finely, stone six ounces 
 of raisins, and cut them each into four pieces. 
 Mix half a tea-spoonful of salt with six ounces 
 of flour and rub the suet into it, add the raisins, 
 and stir in a quarter of a pint of milk. Beat 
 the pudding well for a few minutes, then put 
 it in a well-buttered mould, tie it up in a floured 
 cloth, and boil for four and a half hour^. Turn 
 it out carefully on to a hot dish, and sift 
 pounded sugar on to it before sending to table. 
 Probable cost. Is. 
 
 BASIL. 
 
 Basil is a favourite kitchen herb, with a scent 
 like that of cloves. It is used in the preparation 
 of turtle soup, clear mock turtle, and clear soups 
 made of shell-fish. It is also used for flavouring 
 vinegar. It is in its prime in August, but for 
 winter use it can be obtained dried in bottles. 
 
 BASKET, CHANTILLY. 
 
 This basket is pretty, but skill is required to 
 make it successfully. Make a cement of sugar 
 boiled to crackling height. (See Suoab, Boil- 
 ing.) Dip tha edge of some macaroons into it. 
 
 CHANTILLT BASKET. 
 
 and line with them a mould shaped like a basket, 
 taking care that the edges of the macaroons 
 touch each other. When wanted take it out of 
 the mould, fill it with whipped cream, and it is 
 then ready for table. Time, two or three hours 
 to set. Cost for quart mould, exclusive of 
 cream. Is. 6d. Sufiicient for five or six persons. 
 
 BATH BUNS. 
 
 Put one pound of flour into a pan, and make 
 a hole in the centre, into which pour one table- 
 spoonful of yeast and one cupful of milk, slightly 
 warmed. Mix these together with a little of the 
 flour, and leave it near the fire to rise. Dissolve 
 six ounces of butter, and beat up four eggs ; add 
 this to the sponge', and knead all together. The 
 dough must be again allowed to rise ; and when 
 it has well risen, which will be in about an hour, 
 , put small balls of this mixture on a well-greased 
 oven-tin two or three inches apart. Tltis dough 
 being light, it will fall into the required shape. 
 Sprinkle loaf sugar on the top, or brush the buns 
 over with a mixture of egg and milk. Five or 
 six caraway comfits and lemon- or citron-peel 
 may be added. Bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 BATH CHAP, TO COOK. 
 
 The excellence pf this well-prepared meat de- 
 pends greatly on the soaking and boiling. If 
 these be not properly attended to, it will be 
 
 haVd and unsatisfactory. Lay it in a pail of 
 cold water, skin downwards, and let it remain 
 one night. Scrub the chap with a small brush 
 to cleanse it ; put it into plenty of cold water 
 to boil ; make it come to a boil quickly, and then 
 draw the pan aside to simmer. Time to simmer, 
 from two to three hours, according to size. Skin, 
 and garnish with any boiled green vegetable. 
 Probable cost, 9d. per pound. 
 
 BATH CHAP, MINCED, WITH EQGS. 
 
 Make some rounds of hot buttered toast, lay 
 one fried egg on each, and surround it with 
 finely minced Bath chap which has been seasoned 
 with cayenne pepper and made hot. Serve at 
 once, garnished with watercress. Probable cost, 
 9d. per pound. 
 
 BATH CREAM CHEESE. 
 
 To any quantity of milk, warm from the cow, 
 add a third of the quantity of warm water, a 
 pint of cream, and about two table-spoonfuls of 
 rennet to each three gallons of milk; cover it 
 over and let it stand. When turned, break 
 the curd, and put it in a cheese-cloth on a 
 sieve to drain off the whey; take it out, wash 
 it in cold spring water, and again drain. 
 This must be done three times ; the third and 
 last time, in order to get rid of the whey effec- 
 tually, hot water should be used, and the curd 
 should then be drained and put into the press 
 for six or eight hours. Probable cost of the milk 
 and cream, 2s. per gallon. 
 
 BATLEY PUDDING. 
 
 Mix three ounces of finely-powdered sugar 
 with the yolks of three eggs and the white of one, 
 well beaten. Blanch and pound fifteen almonds, 
 and add them to the eggs with a table-spoonful 
 of brandy. Boil two ounces of ground rice with 
 half a pint of cream ; let it stand to cool, then 
 stir in two ounces of clarified butter, and mix 
 all together. Bake in a moderate oven for thirty 
 minutes. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 BATTENBERG CAKE. 
 
 Crush four ounces of almonds with one egg and 
 two table-spoonfuls of rum ; then put twelve 
 ounces of sugar with twelve yolks of eggs into a 
 pan. Beat this until it is frothy, then add the 
 crushed almonds, two ounces of currants. 
 blanched and cleaned, and two ounces of mixed 
 peel that has been passed through hot water. 
 Add slowly ei^ht ounces of flour rubbed through 
 a sieve. Mix slowly, putting in the ten whites of 
 eggs whipped firm. Finish with six ounces of 
 good melted butter. Cook in a plum-cake mould, 
 buttered. Turn it out of mould to cool. Soak 
 it in kummel, brush over with apricot jelly, and 
 ice with fondant or syrup of kummel. Sprinkle 
 the sides and top with chopped pistachios. Prob- 
 able cost, 38. 6d. 
 BATTER. 
 
 This signifies a mixture of flour and milk or 
 water. Tlie addition of eggs, yeast, spirits, etc., 
 depends on the various uses to which it is 
 applied. Many novel, well-flavoured batters 
 may be made by the introduction of liqueurs, 
 such as ratafia, noyeau, maraschino, or brandy ; 
 but they should be used with judgment, and 
 only enough to give the desired flavour. Small 
 slices of meat, cold cooked vegetables, such as 
 
BAT 
 
 44 
 
 BEA 
 
 carrots and celery, joints of fowl, etc., are all 
 excellent fried in batter, and many seemingly 
 useless remnants may be dressed again in this 
 way, in a pleasing shape, and used to ornament 
 and accompany other dishes. 
 
 BATTER CAKES OF INDIAN MEAL. 
 
 Make a batter by mixing gradually one quart 
 of boiling water with the same quantity of meal ; 
 add a little salt and leave it Uiiril nearly cold. 
 Add a little yeast, form into cakes, and prepare 
 in the usual way, that is to say, fried over a clear 
 quick fire. The yolk of an egg is a great improve- 
 ment to the cakes. Time to fry each cake, five 
 or six minutes. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. 
 Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 BATTER, FRENCH. 
 
 Melt an ounce of butter by pouring over it 
 about an eighth of a pint of bofling water, and 
 again cool it by means of three-quarters of cold 
 water. Mix it gradually and smoothly with six 
 ounces of dried flour. A very little pinch of salt 
 must be put to the batter if it is for fruit, but 
 it will require more if the fritters are savoury 
 ones. If the batter be too thick, put a little 
 more water, and when all is ready beat up the 
 white of an egg to a froth, and stir it into the 
 batter. This forms an excellent batter for apple, 
 peach, or orange fritters. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 BATTER FOR FRYING MEAT, FISH, FRUIT, 
 AND VEGETABLES. 
 
 To four ounces of flour add a gill of lukewarm 
 water, a pinch of salt, and two table-spoonfuls 
 of salad oil. Let the mixture stand awhile, and, 
 before using, dash in the whites of two eggs 
 whisked till firm. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 BATTER FRITTERS. 
 
 Make a batter according to recipe given for 
 batter pudding. When ready, peel, core, and 
 mince some apples, or if preferred, a few currants 
 may be picked and thrown into the batter. The 
 addition of a little suet to the apples is an im- 
 provement, but it must be very judiciously used, 
 as too much will make the fritters greasy. They 
 should be made small. A large table-spoonful of 
 batter is sufficient for one fritter. Fry in boil- 
 ing dripping, and serve with powdered sugar 
 over them. Probable cost, 9d. Time to fry, 
 eight to ten minutes. Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 BATTER PUDDING, BAKED. 
 
 Separate the yolks from the whites of four 
 eggs, beat them well separately, and throw them 
 in a basin together ; then mix them very gradu- 
 ally with six or eight ounces of flour, and a pinch 
 or two of salt. Make the batter of the proper 
 consistency by adding little more than a pint 
 of good milk. Bake in a buttered dish for three- 
 quarters of an hour in a quick oven. This pud- 
 ding is much improved by careful mixing. If 
 the eggs, flour, and milk are not well blended 
 together the pudding is often a failure. Prob- 
 able cost, 7d. or 8d. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 BATTER PUDDING, BAKED, AND APPLES. 
 
 Put one pound of apples peeled, quartered, 
 and cored into a well-buttered dish, and throw 
 over them enough sweet batter to flU it. Add a 
 little pounded clove or grated lemon, and bake 
 
 in a tolerably brisk oven. The apples will rise 
 to the surface. When quite done, but before 
 removing it from the oven, put on some small 
 bits of butter, and sprinkle sugar thickly over 
 the top. Any kind of fruit may be used for these 
 puddings. Time to bake, one hour or more. 
 Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for six or seven 
 persons. 
 
 BATTER PUDDING, BOILED. 
 
 Get one ounce of melted butter. Mix three 
 table-spoonfuls of flour with a little milk, and 
 thin it to a proper consistency with the rest of 
 a pint, using it very gradually, that the batter 
 may be quite smooth. Stir in the butter in its 
 dissolved state, and keep moving the batter 
 while three eggs, which have been well beaten, 
 are added. A pinch of salt must not be omitted. 
 Put the mixture into a well-buttered basin; tie 
 a cloth over it, and put it to boil at once, or the 
 batter will settle at the bottom. It will take 
 one hour and a quarter, and should be moved 
 in the saucepan for a few minutes after it is put 
 to boil. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. ■ 
 
 BAVAROISE, OR BOHEMIAN CREAM JELLY. 
 
 Remove the stalks from one pound of straw- 
 berries, and bruise the fruit slightly. Put it with 
 four ounces of loaf sugar, one ounce of isinglass, 
 and three-quarters of a pint of water into a 
 saucepan, bring the mixture to a boil, and let it 
 simmer for ten minutes. Strain through a jelly- 
 bag into a basin, and set it aside to cool. When 
 just becoming a light jelly whip a quarter of a 
 pint of creanj to a stiff froth, and add the jelly, 
 spoonful by spoonful, to it, beating all the time. 
 Tiie slight sediment at the bottom of the basin 
 must not be added. Beat the bavaroise for 
 about ten minutes until it becomes very thick, 
 and put in a quarter of a teaspoonful of cochi- 
 neal, which must be well beaten in. Pour into a 
 well wetted mould, and put in a cool place (in 
 the refrigerator if possible) to set. Probable 
 cost. Is. 8d. 
 
 Note.- — Any other fruit of delicate flavour may 
 be used instead of strawberries, the process being 
 exactly the same. 
 BAVAROISE (k la Vanille). 
 
 Put four ounces of loaf sugar, half a pint of 
 milk, and half a vanilla pod into a stewpan, 
 and bring slowly to the boil. Beat the yolks 
 of four eggs and pour into the milk when 
 boiling. Keep the pan on the fire and stir till 
 the contents thicken, then take out the vanilla 
 and strain. Dissolve three-quarters of an 
 ounce of French gelatine in half a gill of 
 water, strain into the above mixture, let it cool 
 a little, and add half a pint of cream previously 
 whipped. Fill a mould, place it in a basin sur- 
 rounded with crushed ice ; turn on to a dish with 
 folded ijapkin, and serve. Probable cost, 2s. 
 BAY LEAVES. 
 
 Bay leaves are the leaves of the common laurel 
 (Prunus lauroscerasus), and are used in cooking 
 processes to give a kernel-like flavour to stocks, 
 sauces, custards, puddings, etc. They are gener- 
 ally dried for kitchen use. 
 BEANS, BROAD OR WINDSOR (k la Roulette). 
 
 Boil one quart of young broad beana over a 
 quick fire until nearly done ; then put them into 
 
BEA 
 
 45 
 
 BEA 
 
 a atewpan with sweet herbs very finely cut, a 
 little sugar, half a pint of stock; pepper and 
 salt at discretion. Before beginning to stew 
 see that the beans are well drained from the 
 water in which they were boiled. Stew until 
 half the liquor is absorbed, and just as they are 
 on the point of simmering beat up the yolk of 
 ai e^g with a quarter of a pint of cream, and 
 add it to them. Time, ten minutes to boil ; 
 fifteen to stew. Probable cost, from 6d. to 8d. 
 per peck. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 BEANS, BROAD OR WINDSOR, CURRIED. 
 
 Shell enough broad beans to make a pint, and 
 boil them in plenty of slightly-salted water until 
 tender. Drain, and remove the skins whilst hot. 
 Plunge four ripe tomatoes into boiling water for 
 a moment, skin them, cut them into slices, and 
 put them into a frying-pan with a little butter 
 and the beans. Season with salt and pepper, and 
 moisten with a small quantity of curry sauce. 
 Dress these neatly on a dish bordered with 
 plainly boiled rice, pile the beans in the centre, 
 sprinkle with finely chopped parsley and paprika 
 pepper;* Put into a hot oven for a few minutes, 
 and serve. 
 
 The SATicE.^^Peel and slice an onion, scrape 
 and slice a carrot, fry both in half an ounce of 
 butter till the onion is a light brown, then add 
 a table-spoonful of Empress curry powder, and 
 stir for a few seconds. Then add a small sour 
 apple peeled and chopped, moisten with half a 
 gill of tomato puree and one gill espagnole 
 sauce (see Espagnole Sauce), and boil for a few 
 minutes. Season to taste, and, lastly, stir in a 
 finely-chopped French gherkin. Probable cost. 
 Is. 8d. 
 
 BEANS, BROAD OR WINDSOR, MASHED. 
 
 This is the only way in which old beans may 
 be cooked to advantage. They should be first 
 boiled in the ordinary way fully half an hour, 
 by which time the skins will have burst, and 
 they may be easily removed. Mash them with 
 the back of a wooden spoon until quite smooth, 
 "then put them back into the stewpan with a little 
 sugar, butter, pepper, and salt. Warm up, and 
 then press them into a buttered mould. The 
 mould should be hot and kept hot until ready to 
 serve; then turn out. Probable cost, 6d. per 
 peck. Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 BEANS, BROAD OR WINDSOR, TO STEW. 
 
 Have ready a good rich brown gravy. Cut up 
 some small onions, chives, and parsley; throw 
 them into the gravy and simmer for ten minutes 
 before the beans are put in. Sprinkle a quart of 
 beans with two tea-spoonfuls of salt, one of 
 pepper, and one of sugar, mix together and put 
 tliem into the gravy. Stir the beans gently over 
 a slow fire till the gravy is absorbed by them. 
 In ten minutes serve them up. Probable cost, 
 6d. a peck. Sufficient for a dish. 
 BEANS, BROAD OR WINDSOR, WITH HAM 
 OR BACON. 
 
 This is a very popular dish. . The beans must 
 he boiled separately and not with the ham. 
 They should be young, and shelled only just 
 before cooking. Put them into boiling water 
 with a little salt, boil very quickly, drain, and 
 pour parsley sauce over them. Place the ham 
 on the beans. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes 
 
 to boil. Probable cost, 6d. to 8d. per peck. 
 Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 BEANS, FRENCH OR KIDNEY. 
 
 Choose fine young beans, and be careful that 
 they are the right sort. The best kind are the 
 case-knife, because they have no strings, and 
 are consequently all eatable, and need only be 
 broken in two, not cut. Should these not be 
 obtainable, take the youngest that can be pro- 
 cured : remove the thread or string that runs 
 along the back of the pod, then cut them in a 
 slanting direction lengthways in very thin slices, 
 throw them into boiling water well salted, and 
 to preserve their colour boil without the lid of 
 the saucepan. When tender, drain in a colander, 
 add a small piece of butter and a dash of pepper, 
 and give the whole a shake. Some cooks add a 
 tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, but we do not 
 think this an improvement. This dish may be 
 varied in a great many ways, and with great suc- 
 cess. Cold French beans with oil and vinegar 
 make an excellent and refreshing salad. They 
 may also, when cooked anJ drained, be mixed 
 with some good brown gravy, and served alone 
 as a course after the meat. 
 
 BEANS, FRENCH (k la Fran;aJse). 
 
 Cut and boil one pound of French beans ; 
 drain well and put them into a stewpan over the 
 fire to dry or absorb the moisture ; shake the pan 
 that they may not burn. When quite free from 
 the water add three ounces of fresh butter, the 
 juice of half a lemon, pepper, salt, and a table- 
 spoonful of good gravy. Keep shaking the stew- 
 pan until the beans are quite hot, and serve 
 quickly. Time, quarter of an hour to boil; ten 
 minutes to stew. Probable cost, from 2d. to 
 4d. per pound. Sufficient for two persons. 
 
 BEANS, FRENCH (^ la Provenfale). 
 
 Brown some slices of onion with oil instead of 
 butter; make them of a light brown, and add 
 some French beans that have been prepared and 
 boiled in the ordinary way, with chopped pars- 
 ley, thyme, chives, and bay-leaf. As soon as the 
 vegetables are done, remove them on to a dish ; 
 put a little vinegar into the pan, boil it up and 
 throw it over the beans. If oil be disliked, fry 
 the onions in butter, and add gravy instead of 
 vinegar. The juice of a lemon is sometimes pre- 
 ferred. 
 
 BEANS, FRENCH, BOILED. 
 
 Only the ends and stalks require to be taken 
 off when the beans are very young, and no mode 
 of cooking can make very old ones eatable. Put 
 them as they are prepared into cold water. They 
 are cut according to taste lengthwise into thin 
 strips or obliquely into a lozenge form. The 
 strings should be drawn off with the tops and 
 stalks when they are come to their proper 
 growth. Put them into a large saucepan of boil- 
 ing water, slightly salted, allow the steam to 
 escape, and keep boiling very fast until tender. 
 Time, fifteen minutes if young; twenty to 
 twenty-five minutes if old. Probable cost, 2d. 
 to 4d. per pound. 
 
 BEANS, FRENCH (Haricots Verts). 
 
 Boil and drain the beans in the usual way, 
 and put them into a stewpaii with some butter 
 thickened with flour. Add chopped parsley,. 
 
BEA 
 
 46 
 
 BEA 
 
 thyme, cliives, etc., and a small cupful of stock; 
 season to taste with salt and pepper. Stew for 
 some time, then thicken with two eggs well 
 beaten up with a little milk or cream, and serve 
 quickly. A little lemon-juice may also be added. 
 Time to stew, ten minutes. Probable cost, from 
 2d. to 4d. per pound. 
 
 BEANS, FRENCH, SALAD OF. 
 
 Take cold cooked beans which have been well 
 drained from the water. Saturate them with 
 vinegar, and let them lie in it for twenty min- 
 utes. Drain again, and add some oil, if liked, 
 and a little pepper and salt. Beans may be 
 eaten with any salad sauce. 
 
 BEANS, FRENCH, TO STEW. 
 
 This is an excellent accompaniment to veni- 
 son, veal, or any other cutlets. The beans 
 should be cut, boiled, and drained according 
 to recipe given for boiled beans. Then take a 
 rich brown gravy, well flavoured with pepper 
 and salt, put it into a stewpan, and when hot 
 add the beans and simmer over a slow fire. 
 Shake the pan to prevent them from burning, 
 and serve in fifteen minutes. The cutlets may 
 be put in the centre, or they may be served on 
 the beans and gravy. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d, 
 per pound. 
 
 BEANS, FRENCH, WITH GRAVY. 
 
 Dissolve four ounces of butter in a pan, and 
 stir into it three ounces of flour till it becomes 
 brown and quite smooth. Mix a little gravy 
 and season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. 
 Souse and simmer the beans, previously boiled, 
 in this mixture for twenty minutes. Probable 
 cost, 2d. to 4d. per pound. Allow one quart of 
 beans for six or seven persons. 
 
 BEANS, HARICOT (4 Ja Bretonne). 
 
 Put some butter into a stewpan with a chopped 
 onion and a little flour. Brown, but do not 
 blacken the butter; pour in a little broth, or 
 water. Stir till it is slightly thick, and season 
 with salt and pepper. Put in the haricots 
 already cooked by boiling; simmer them about 
 twenty minutes in the broth and serve hot. 
 Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. per quart. Allow one 
 quqrt for six or seven persons. 
 
 BEANS, HARICOT, BOSTON BAKED. 
 
 This is a famous and universally^ popular 
 American dish. Take one quart of haricot beans, 
 pick them over carefully, wash, and soak all 
 night in cold water. In the morning put them 
 on in a saucepan and partially boil them, until 
 they begin to split open, which will take about 
 half an hour. Then drain off the water and put 
 the beans into a two-quart round brown earthen- 
 ware jar. Take one pound of pickled pork, slash 
 the top of it, and bury it in the middle of the 
 beans. Season with a little salt, but not too 
 much, as the pork is salt. Then cover with boil- 
 ing water and put the jar, without a lid, into 
 the oven. Let them cook slowly all day long 
 while the fire is alight, occasionally pouring on 
 a little boiling water as they get dry. By night 
 they will be sufliciently done. They may either 
 be served in an entree dish with the pork in 
 the middle, or be sent to table with a napkin 
 arranged neatly round the jar. No boiling water 
 should be added for an hour or two before they 
 
 are taken from the oven, or they will not be 
 brown. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 
 BEANS, HARICOT, DRIED. 
 
 Soak one quart of haricot beans for two hours 
 in cold water. Pour off the soaking water; put 
 them into two quarts of water with a large table- 
 spoonful of salt. Let them simmer until soft 
 and mealy, then drain. Put them back into the 
 saucepan with two ounces of butter, and season- 
 ing of pepper and salt. Shake them until the 
 butter is well melted and the beans hot through, 
 and serve quickly. Time, from two to two and a 
 half hours. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. per quart. 
 SufScient for six or seven persons. 
 
 BEANS, HARICOT, PLAIN BOILED. 
 
 Sprinkle over one quart of haricot beans, pre- 
 viously boiled, two table-spoonfuls of chopped 
 parsley, and put them with two ounces of butter 
 into a stewpan. Let them get thoroughly 
 heated; shake the pan, and in about fifteen 
 minutes serve in a hot vegetable dish. Probable 
 cost, 4d. to 6d. per quart. Suflicient for six or 
 seven persons. *' 
 
 BEANS, HARICOT, PUREE OF. 
 
 Soak half a pound of haricot beans in water 
 with a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda; let 
 them stand overnight, and boil for four hours. 
 Rub the beans through a sieve ; make a sauce 
 with one ounce of butter, one ounce of flour, and 
 milk; beat one egg and mix it with half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and a quarter of a tea-spoon- 
 ful of cayenne pepper. Add this to the sauce 
 and pour it over the beans. Have another 
 egg hard-boiled, cut it into slices, put the slices 
 round a greased mould, pour the mixture in. 
 cover with buttered paper, steam for one and 
 a half hours, and serve with parsley sauce. Prob- 
 able cost, 9d. 
 
 BEANS, HARICOT, SOUP. 
 
 Wash half a pint of haricot beans, and soak 
 them for some hours in cold water. Put them in 
 a saucepan with one pint of water or stock, let 
 it come to the boil, and skim it well. Take one 
 onion, half a turnip, and one potato, wash them , 
 well, cut them into pieces, and add them to the 
 beans. Skim thoroughly as it begins again to 
 boil, and let it simmer gently for two hours. 
 Press. all the ingredients through a colander or 
 sieve, add half a pint of milk, and salt and 
 pepper to taste; return the soup to the sauce- 
 pan to boil again before serving. Probable 
 cost, 6d. 
 
 BEANS, HARICOT, WITH TOMATO SAUCE. 
 
 Soak one pint of beans for twelve hours, then 
 put them into a saucepan with enough water to 
 cover, add one onion, a piece of celery, a carrot, 
 a. turnip, one ounce of butter, and pepper and 
 salt to taste. Boil slowly until soft, then take 
 out the vegetables, drain the beans quickly, pile 
 them high on a dish, and pour over them some 
 thick tomato sauce. Garnish round with croii- 
 tons. Probable cost, 8d. 
 
 BEARNAISE SAUCE. 
 
 Take three shallots finely chopped, six pepper- 
 corns, a sprig of thyme, and half a gill of tarra- 
 gon vinegar, and put all together in a stewpan ; 
 cover and boil till well reduced, remove the 
 
BEC 
 
 47 
 
 BEE 
 
 thyme, add one tablespoonful of white sauce and 
 a little meat glaze. Eemove the stewpan from 
 the fire, whisk in four yolks of eggs, and work 
 in four ounces of butter in small pieces. Strain 
 through a pointed strainer or tammy. A little 
 finely chopped tarragon may be added after the 
 sauce is strained. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 
 BECHAMEL, OR FRENCH WHITE SAUCE. 
 
 Cut an onion and a carrot into large dice, 
 with a little celery, a few whole peppers, and 
 some scraps of ham (not smoked), fowl, or white- 
 fleshed game ; fry lightly in four ounces of butter 
 or good dripping. Add four ounces of dry flour, 
 mix well together, and fry to a golden brown. 
 Draw the saucepan from the fire and moisten 
 with one pint of milk and one pint of good white 
 stock, a little at a time, mixing well with a 
 whisk. Season with pepjjer and salt. It should 
 be sufficiently thick to cling to the spoon. Pass 
 it through muslin into a" basin for future use. 
 Probable cost. Is. 
 
 Note. — Bechamel is considered the foundation 
 of most sauces used in cooking, and, being pre- 
 pared in advance, it can be made with any scraps 
 of fowl, white-fleshed game, or fish. 
 
 BECHAMEL, OR FRENCH WHITE SAUCE 
 
 (another way). 
 
 As white stock is the foundation for this sauce 
 it must be prepared first. Boil down an old fowl, 
 two or three pounds of the knuckle of veal, and 
 three of very lean ham, with the white parts of 
 four carrots, two onions, one blade of mace, some 
 white peppercorns, two table-spoonfuls of salt, 
 and an ounce of butter, in four or five quarts of 
 water. Cut up the fowl and veal, and put them, 
 with the ham to simmer, in a small quantity of 
 water, till the juices are extracted ; then throw 
 in the full quantity of water, about three and 
 a half quarts to the other ingredients. Let the 
 liquid simmer from four to five hours. Skim and 
 strain till clear, when it is ready for the Becha- 
 mel. Mix a table-spoonful of arrowroot with a 
 pint of cream, ?ina when well blended let it . 
 simmer in a. carefully-cleaned pan for four or 
 five minutes. Make one pint of the stock hot 
 and pour it into the cream ; simmer slowly for 
 ten minutes or Until it thickens. If too thick add 
 a little stock. Time, two hours. Probable cost. 
 Is. per pint. 
 
 BECHAMEL, MAIGRE. 
 
 Use milk and water instead of the stock made 
 with animal juices. Blend qne ounce of flour 
 with one ounce of butter. Simmer for twenty 
 minutes the following ingredients in one pint 
 of milk with half the quantity of water and a 
 little salt; two or three small mushrooms, a few 
 sprigs of parsley, two onions, and a blade of 
 mace. When it has boiled long enough to acquire 
 the desired flavour, strain and put it again into 
 the stewpan with the flour andT butter, keeping 
 it stirred until perfectly smooth, then strain it 
 again. Some cooks mix lemon-juice and yolks of 
 eggs with Bechamel in order to enrich it. They 
 accomplish their object and make the sauce 
 richer, but they destroy its distinctive charac- 
 ter, for by these additions they produce not 
 Bechamel, but Allemande sauce. Cost, about 
 6d. per pint. 
 
 BEEF. 
 
 Beef is considered by many the best and most 
 wholesome, .as it is certainly the most economical 
 meat that can be purchased for family use. It 
 is in season all the year round, though it can be 
 had in perfection in winter only, because then 
 the joints can be hung until the meat is quite 
 tender. The heart, head, sweetbreads, and kid- 
 neys should always be used fresh. Ox beef is 
 the best; the flesh is smoothly grained and 
 rather open ; if the animal is young it rises when 
 pressed with the finger. The lean is of a bright 
 red colour, and the fat white rather than yellow. 
 Very lean beef is always of inferior quality, 
 whilst very fat beef is objectionable because it is 
 so wasteful. Heifer beef is the best for small 
 families ; the grain is closer, the colour paler, 
 and the fat whiter than ox beef. Bull beef is 
 dark in colour, with a coarse grain, very little 
 fat, and a strong, meaty smell. It should never 
 be chosen. If beef is to be tender the joints 
 should be hung as long as the weather will per- 
 mit. In summer time they should be examined 
 every day, and any moisture that may arise 
 should be scraped off. Beef that is to be roasted 
 should not be washed unless it is quite neces- 
 sary. If any part has been touched with flies 
 it may be rubbed with a cloth which has been 
 dipped in vinegar, then dried quickly. Pow- 
 dered charcoal rubbed over the meat will ::cstore 
 it if slightly tainted. Before hanging the joints 
 care should be taken to remove the soft cord 
 which runs down the bone of the sirloin and ribs, 
 and to trim off all superfluous fat. An ox is 
 usually cut up and dressed as follows: — 
 
 SiBLOiN. Prime roasting joint. The chump end 
 is the finest part, as it contains the largest 
 portion of the undercut or fillet. Excellent 
 steaks may be cut from this fillet, and are 
 considered by some superior to rump steak. 
 The sirloin should be hung as long as pos- 
 sible before it is cooked. Two sirloins cut 
 together form a baron of beef. Price per 
 pound, lOd. to Is. 
 
 EuMP. Upper part or chump end roasted. 
 Lower or silver side salted and boiled. 
 Middle' part cut into steaks. Price per 
 pound, lid. to Is. ; steak. Is. 2d. to Is. 4d. 
 
 Aitchbone. Salted and boiled or stewed, some- 
 times roasted. Price per pound; TJd. to 8Jd. 
 
 Buttock oe Round. Boiled, stewed, or cut into 
 steaks. The upper side if hung for a few 
 days makes an excellent and economical 
 roasting joint. Price per pound, lOd. to lid. 
 
 Mouse Bound. Boiled or stewed. Price per 
 pound, lOd. to lid. 
 
 Veiny Piece. Steaks. Inferior in quality to 
 the rump. Price per pound, lid. to lljd. 
 
 Thick Flank. Fine boiling piece. Price per 
 pound, lOd. to lid. 
 
 Thin Flank. Boiled. This part is excellent 
 when boned, rolled, and pressed. Price per 
 pound, 8d. 
 
 Leo. Stewed, and good for soup. Price per 
 pound, 4d. to 9d. 
 
 Fore Ribs (five ribs). Iloasted. Prime roasting 
 part. Price per pound, lOd. to Is. 
 
 Middle Ribs (four ribs). Economical roasting 
 part. Price per pound, lOd. 
 
 Chuck Ribs (three ribs). Steaks. Second 
 quality. Price per pound, 8d. to lOd. 
 
BEE 
 
 48 
 
 BEE 
 
 Shouldee, or Leg op Mutton Piece. Boiled or 
 
 stewed. Price per pound, lOd. to lid. 
 Beisket. Boiled or stewed. Excellent wlien 
 
 salted and pressed. Price per pound, 7d. 
 
 to8d. 
 Clod. Boiled or stewed. Used in making 
 
 gravy. Price per pound, 6d. to 9d. 
 Neck. Soups, gravies, etc. Price per pound, 
 
 5d. to 8d. 
 Shin. Soups and gravies. Also for stewing. 
 
 Price per pound, 4d. to 9d. 
 Cheeks. Brawn, soup, etc. Price per pound, 
 
 4H. 
 Tail. Soup. Stewed. Each, Is. 3d. to 2b. 9d. 
 Tongue. Salted and boiled. Each, 5s. to 6s. 
 Heels. Stewed for jelly and stock. Each, 9d. 
 
 to Is. 
 IjIvee. Stewed and fried. Price per pound, 5d. 
 Besides these there is the Palate, which is 
 
 stewed or fried; the Heart, which is 
 
 stuffed and roasted ; the Sweetbreads and 
 
 Tripe, which are cooked in various ways ; 
 
 and the Skirt, which makes rich gravy. 
 
 SECTIONAL diagram OF THE OX. 
 
 A, Rump. 
 
 B, Mouse Buttock. 
 
 C, Leg, or Hock. 
 
 D, Buttock, or Bound. 
 
 E, Aitchbone, or Top. 
 iF, Sirloin. 
 
 G, Fnre Ribs. 
 H, Middle Ribs. 
 I, Chuck Ribs. 
 
 J, Neck, Clod, or Sticking 
 
 Piece. 
 K, Shin. 
 L, Shoulder, or Leg of 
 
 Mutton Piece. 
 M, Biisket. 
 N, Thin Flank. 
 O, Thick Flank 
 P, Veiny Piece. 
 
 buy of one respectable butcher whose word may 
 be depended on. The following directions are 
 given for the benefit of those who require them ; 
 they do not belong to any particular meats, 
 those will be treated of in their proper places :— 
 While roasting, keep a good fire and place the 
 meat rather near it at first. After a short time, 
 varying from ten to fifteen minutes, draw the 
 joint back, and let it cook steadily. Baste 
 often; a great deal depends on this. Inexperi- 
 enced cooks think they have done all that is 
 necessary when they have put the meat before 
 the fire, and given it the prescribed time; but 
 without frequent basting it will be dry and indi- 
 gestible. Although the greatest care has been 
 taken to give correctly the time required for 
 cooking the various dishes, it must be remem- 
 bered that to give it exactly to suit each case 
 is impossible, because so many circumstances 
 tend to vary it, such as the age of the animal, 
 the time the meat has been kept after being 
 killed, the state of the weather, the cooking 
 ariparatus used, and the quality of the fuel. 
 The average only has been taken, and common 
 sense must make allowance for the rest. It will 
 be an assistance to remember that freshly-killed 
 meat requires more time than that which has 
 been kept, and also that meat needs cooking 
 rather longer in cold weather than in hot. 
 
 BEEF, AITCHBONE OF, ROASTED. 
 
 An aitchbone of beef weighing ten pounds will 
 take three and a half hours to cook in a moder- 
 ate oven. Baste frequently, and pour the gravy 
 that flows from the meat over it. It should be 
 well hung before being used. 
 
 BEEF, AITCHBONE OF, SALTED. 
 
 Most persons roast this joint, but we think it 
 far superior salted and boiled according to the 
 following recipe : — Take a piece of beef, say ten 
 pounds, and rub into it a mixture composed of 
 three-quarters of a pound of salt, one ounce of 
 dark moist sugar, and half an ounce of saltpetre. 
 
 Purchase the best meat and the best joints; 
 they are the most economical in the end. The 
 quality of beef depends on so many circum- 
 stances that the surest way to get it good is to 
 
 aitchbone of beef. 
 
 Turn the meat each day, and rub the pickle well 
 in every time. Keep it in this condition four or 
 five days, when it will be found salt enough for 
 most people. When wanted for use, put it into 
 a large saucepan with enough boiling water to 
 cover, let it boil, then draw back, and simmer 
 gently for two hours and a half. "If," says 
 Dr. Kitchener, " it boils too quickly at first, no 
 art can make it tender afterwards ; the slower 
 it boils the better." Carrots, turnips, and suet 
 dumplings are the proper accompaniments to 
 this dish. The soft, marrow-like fat at the back 
 of the joint should be eaten when it is hot, the 
 hard fat left until the joint is served cold. The 
 liquor in which the beef is boiled should not be 
 
BEE 
 
 49 
 
 BEE 
 
 •Hirown away, it will meke excellent pea Boup. 
 Probable cost, 7Jd. to Sfd. per pound. Suffi- 
 cient for eight or nine persons. 
 
 BEEF, AITCHBONE OF, TO CARVE. 
 
 In carving an aitchbone of beef it is necessary 
 that it should be cut across the grain. In order 
 to do this the knife should follow the line from 
 A to B in the above illustration. The meat should 
 be cut of a moderate thickness, and very evenly. 
 Cut the lean and the fat in one slice, and if more 
 fat is desired it should be taken horizontally 
 from the side. Before proceeding to serve, a 
 slice of about a quarter of an inch in thick- 
 ness should be cut from the top, so that the 
 juicy part of the meat may be obtained at 
 once. 
 
 BEEF ik Ja Braise). 
 
 Hang a rump of beef for five or six days ; re- 
 move the bone, and lard it freely with small 
 pieces of ham or bacon, rolled in a seasoning 
 composed of, an onion minced very fine, a little 
 garlic, thyme, parsley, pepper, and salt. After 
 the ham or bacon has been rolled in the season- 
 ing, add to what is left of the lattier a pint of 
 vinegar, a pint of port wine, and a teaspoonful 
 of salad-oil. Steep the beef in this mixture for 
 one night. Before cooking, wrap it in paper, 
 , and roast it on a cradle spit, basting it well all 
 the time it is before the fire. Serve with brown 
 gravy thickened, and garnish with horse-radish 
 scraped, and boiled carrots. Some cooks also 
 add a, little lemon-juice, and slices of pickled 
 cucumber. Probable cost of beef, lid. to Is. per 
 pound. 
 
 BEEF (k la Flamande). 
 
 Select a piece of brisket, weighing about seven 
 or eight pounds, preferably choosing that por- 
 tion of the brisket which contains the gristle. 
 Trim this meat and put it into a stewpan with 
 five slices of bacon, two carrots, one onion, a 
 bunch of savoury herbs, four cloves, four whole 
 allspice, two blades of mace, and a little weak 
 stock, or water; simmer very gently for four 
 hours in a closely-shut pan. At the end of this 
 period, strain the liquor, set aside a portion for 
 sauce, and boil the remainder over a brisk fire 
 until it is reduced to a glaze, with which to 
 glaze the meat. Garnish the- joint with cut 
 pieces of boiled turnips, carrots, and mushrooms, 
 and pour round it sauce prepared from the liquor 
 set aside for this purpose. Probable price, 7d. 
 to 8d. per pound. 
 
 BEEF (k la Mode), No. 1. 
 
 Any fleshy part of beef or veal will do for this 
 dish; but, of course, the finer the meat is the 
 better will be the stew. A piece of the rump or 
 buttock of beef we should consider most suit- 
 able; of veal, either the fillet or the most 
 gristly part of the breast. About six or seven 
 pounds IS the usual quantity prepared. Rub the 
 meat well with some mixed spice, salt, and a 
 little flour, and put it in a stewpan, into which 
 have been previously placed some thin slices of 
 streaked bacon. As it is desirable that the 
 bacon should not touch the bottom of the stew- 
 pan, it would be better to place a few skewers 
 in it for the bacon to rest on. Cover the meat 
 also with slices of bacon, some good gravy 
 
 (about a pint and a half), and a little vinegar. 
 Stew very gently for two hours, then add a sea- 
 soning of cloves, mace, pepper, mushrooms, and 
 a, dozen small onions, half roasted. Cover the 
 saucepan 'tightly down, and simmer until ten- 
 der. Put the meat in » deep dish, strain the 
 gravy over it, and serve very hot. Should veal 
 be used, the mushrooms should be omitted, and 
 lemon-peel substituted. Time to simmer, from 
 three to four hours. Sufficient for seven or eight 
 persons. 
 BEEF (k la Mode), No. 2. 
 
 Take eight or ten pounds of beef (the rump or 
 buttock), or the same weight of a breast of veal. 
 Divide it into neat pieces of three or four ounces 
 in weight. Put it into a large stewpan with four 
 ounces of good beef dripping ; but first make the 
 dripping hot, and flour the meat. Add a couple 
 of large onions, minced very fine, dredge with 
 flour, and stir with a wooden spoon for about 
 ten minutes, or until the contents of tLe pan be 
 thick; then pour in about one gallon of water. 
 Do this gradually, stirring all together. Bring 
 it to a boil; then. skim, and add one salt-spoon- 
 ful of ground black pepper, two of allspice, and 
 two bay-leaves. Set the pan where it will stew 
 gently for about three hours. When the meat is 
 tender, serve. Sufficient for ten or twelve 
 persons. 
 BEEF (k la Mode), No. 3. (Bath recipe ) 
 
 Take three pounds of beef (any part will do, 
 but the rump is the best), cut away all fat, and 
 trim nicely. Take a few cloves, a tea-spoonful 
 of black pepper, a blade of mace, and a salt- 
 spoonful of allspice. Pound them thoroughly, 
 and add half a small tea-spoonful of cayenne 
 pepper, some minced sweet herbs, and a shallot. 
 Put these ingredients into a dish, previously 
 rubbed with garlic, and cover them with vine- 
 gar. Cut fat bacon into long strips, and lard 
 the beef, on both sides if necessary, first dip- 
 ping each strip of bacon into the vinegar, and 
 well covering them with the seasoning. Put 
 the meat into a baking-pan, with the remainder 
 of the herbs and spice, a bit of butter rolled in 
 flour, and one pint of water. Cover the top of 
 the pan, and bake in an oven. When tender, 
 strain the gravy, and serve the beef with pickles 
 on the top. It makes an excellent cold dish, but 
 should be served hot with gravy at first. Prob- 
 able cost, Is. per pound. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. 
 BEEF (k la Mode), No. 4. (French recipe.) 
 
 Take a large flat stewpan, and put into it two 
 ounces of good butter. When the butter begins 
 to froth, add a table-spoonful of flour, and stir 
 until the two are well mixed and of a fine golden 
 colour. Next lay in a piece of rump of beef, or 
 any other tender part, three pounds in weight. 
 Fry gently, being very careful that the meat 
 does not stick to the pan. Add bjr degrees a 
 pint of rich stock, well flavoured with carrots, 
 savoury herbs, onions, bay-leaves, salt, and 
 pepper. When preferred, the Vegetables may 
 be put in whole, instead of merely flavouring the 
 gravy with them, and they look very nice when 
 used to garnish the meat. In France, they 
 greatly increase the quantity of vegetables by 
 adding tomatoes, when in season, small cucum- 
 bers, mushrooms, and green peas. Veal dressed 
 
BEE 
 
 50 
 
 BEE 
 
 this way, with the addition of new potatoes, is 
 excellent, and is generally preferred to beef. 
 Time to stew, four or five hours. Probable cost, 
 4s. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 BEEF (k la Polonaise). 
 
 Mix some bread-crumbs with minced onion, a 
 little butter, pepper and salt. Get a piece of 
 beef, about four or five pounds, trim neatly, and 
 insert the above stuffing into incisions made in 
 the meat. These incisions should not be through, 
 or the forcemeat will fall out into the stewpan. 
 Put the meat into a stewpan, with a little butter 
 and very little water, and stew until tender. 
 Thicken the gravy with a tea-spoonful of brown 
 thickening ; or, failing this, with a quarter of an 
 ounce of butter rolled in flour. Time to stew, 
 three hours. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. 
 
 BEEF, AUSTRALIAN. 
 
 {See AtJSTBALiAN Beep.) 
 
 BEEF, BACHELOR'S, STEW. 
 
 Take a piece of meat weighing from three to 
 four pounds. If beef, from the rump, fillet, or 
 buttock, or a fillet of veal of the same weight; 
 pepper and brown the meat in a stewpan, using 
 a small quantity of good butter. Cut up two or 
 three carrots info thick slices, remove the white 
 parts of them with an apple-corer, and place 
 them on the top of the meat. Then add three- 
 quarters of a pint of water, and cover up tightly 
 to simmer over a very slow fire. In about. three- 
 quarters of an hour turn the meat over, but still 
 keep the carrots on the top, and add four or five 
 small onions, a little mushroom ketchup, and 
 salt, and cover again tight as before. Simmer on 
 the side of the fire for another hour or more, but 
 always observing to add a little boiling water if 
 required. Teal may be served up with green 
 peas, a little ham, and the juice and rind of a 
 lemon. Time, from one hour and three-quarters 
 to two hours. Sufficient for four persons. Aver- 
 age cost, 3s. 6d. 
 
 BEEF, BAKED. 
 
 Take about two pounds of thin slices of cold 
 roast beef, sprinkle over them a little salt and a 
 dust of flour; roll them neatly up with a small 
 portion of fat between each roll, and lay them 
 in the bottom of a pie-dish. Slice two carrots 
 and a turnip and parboil them; lay them with 
 thinly-sliced onion and minced herbs over the 
 meat, and proceed with another layer of beef 
 PS before till all is used up. The vegetables 
 should be next to the paste, and should be dusted 
 over with pepper and salt. Mix a tea-spoonful 
 of flour with about half a pint of good gravy, 
 free from grease, and two or three table-spoon- 
 fuls of ale ; put this into the dish and bake three- 
 juarters of an hour, covered with a crust, or 
 mashed potatoes if preferred. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. 
 
 BEEF, BARON OF. 
 
 Baron of beef consists of both sides of the 
 back, or a double sirloin, and weighs from 
 thirty to one hundred pounds, according to the 
 size of the animal. It is always roasted, but is 
 now rarely prepared, except on particular festive 
 occasions, and at great public entertainments. 
 It is generally accompanied by a boar's head' 
 and other substantial viands. 
 
 BEEF, BOILED. 
 
 Put fresh beef into boiling water, bring it to 
 a boil quickly, draw the pan back, and simmer 
 gently till done, allowing fifteen minutes per 
 pound, and fifteen minutes over. Salt beef 
 should be put into lukewarm, not boiling water. 
 Simmer from the time of boiling till it is served 
 up. Skim the pot thoroughly, and turn the meat 
 twice during the simmering. If vegetables are 
 liked, carrots or turnips may be added, but they 
 should only be put in long enough to get them 
 properly cooked. The liquor will serve for pea 
 soup, and is useful to the cook in various ways ; 
 the vegetables boiled in it will have greatly im- 
 proved the flavour. 
 
 BEEF BONES, BROILED. 
 
 There are few dishes more appetising than 
 broiled bones, whether of beef, mutton, or 
 poultry. Great attention should be given to the 
 fire. If not clear the bones will be blackened 
 and lose their nice delicate flavour. Divide 
 them if necessary, rub them with a little clari- 
 fied butter, then with pepper, salt, and mustard, 
 and broil over the fire for about five minutes. 
 Serve alone or with sliced potatoes fried and- 
 very hot. 
 
 BEEF BRAINS. 
 
 (See Btjllock's Beains.) 
 BEEF, BRAISED (k la Mode). 
 
 Trim four pounds of rump of beef, insert some 
 strips of larding-bacon, place the meat in a 
 basin, season with salt and pepper, add the juice 
 of half a lemon, a glass of claret, a bay-leaf, a 
 sprig of thyme, and an onion sliced. Let it 
 stand for four or five hours. Take up the meat, 
 strain well, and fry it in one ounce of butter 
 until it is a nice brown. Place the meat on a 
 dish, stir one ounce of flour into the butter 
 in which the meat was fried, let it get brown, 
 then add the marinade as described above, one 
 quart of stock and a bouquet garni ; let it come 
 to the boil, and skim. Replace the beef, add two 
 carrots, previously cleaned and cut into slices, 
 also ten small button onions slightly fried. 
 Simmer gently for one and a half to two hours. 
 Dish up the meat, skim the fat off the sauce, and 
 strain over the beef, arrange the carrots and 
 onions in groups round the dish, and serve. 
 Probable cost, 5s. 
 
 BEEF, BRAISED, RUMP (^ la Jardiniere). - 
 
 Eemove the bone from a piece of rump weigh- 
 ing about sixteen pounds, and trim and tie, it 
 into a nice shape. Simmer it for three hours in 
 the stock-pot, and after well draining put it into 
 a braising-pan- or stew-pan, with a gravy made 
 in the following manner. Put three carrots, 
 three onions, three shallots, three bay-leaves, 
 and a sprig of thyme into a stewpan with a pint 
 and a half of good rich gravy. Slice the vege- 
 tables and simmer until the flavour is extracted 
 and the gravy reduced to about one pint, then 
 strain and add the best part of a pint of 
 Marsala. Pour this gravy over the meat in the 
 braismg-pan, simmer and baste constantly for 
 two hours. Add half a pint of Spanish sauce 
 (see Spanish Sattce); skim and strain into a 
 tureen to be served with the beef. Garnish with 
 brussels sprouts, carrots, and cauliflowers; the 
 latter is best placed at the ends and sides of 
 
BEE 
 
 BEC 
 
 the dish, with carrots on each side of the cauli- 
 flowers and the brussels sprouts to fill up the 
 spaces between. Time to simmer, three hours; 
 to braise, two hours. Probable cost, lid. to 
 Is. per pound. Sufficient for a remove. 
 
 BEEr, BRAISED, RUMP, WITH MACARONI. 
 
 Cook the beef as before directed, and boil some 
 blanched macaroni in veal broth. Drain it, and 
 add some Spanish sauce and grated Parmesan 
 cheese. Mix well and serve round the meat. 
 Tomato sauce may be sent to table in a tureen. 
 Time to boil the macaroni from fifteen to twenty- 
 minutes. 
 
 BEEF, BRESLAU. 
 
 Take three or four ounces of bread-crumbs, 
 beat up three eggs and add them to the crumbs 
 and a small cupful of good brown gravy ; break 
 three ounces of butter into small pieces, and 
 mix all together with half a tea-spoonful of salt, 
 one tea-spoonful of grated lemon-peel, two table- 
 spoonfuls of minced thyme and parsley, and a 
 little cayenne. When these ingredients are 
 thoroughly mixed, take of roast beef, rather 
 undercooked, from a half to three-quarters of a 
 pound, mince it very finely, mix well with the 
 forcemeat, and bake for half an hour in but- 
 tered cofEee-eups. Turn out, and serve with egg- 
 balls round the dish and gravy if liked. Prob- 
 able cost, exclusive of meat, 8d. Sufficient for a 
 small dish. 
 BEEF, BRISKET OF, STEWED. 
 
 Take six pounds of beef, and, before dressing 
 it, rub it over with vinegar and salt ; place it in 
 a stewpan with stock or water sufficient to cover 
 it. Allow it to simmer for an hour, skimming it 
 well all the time. Put in (six each) carrots, 
 turnips, and small onions; and allow all to 
 simmer until the meat is quite tender, which 
 will be in about other two hours. As soon as 
 it is ready the bones should be removed. Boil 
 for a few minutes as much of the gravy as will 
 be required with flour and a little butter, and 
 season it with ketchup, allspice, and mace. 
 Pour a little of it over the brisket, and send the 
 remainder to table in a separate dish. Sufficient 
 for six or seven persons. Probable cost, 7d. to 
 8d. per pound. 
 
 BEEF, BRISKET OF, TO CARVE. 
 
 The accompanying engraving represents the 
 appearance of a brisket of beef ready for table. 
 There is no difficulty in carving it. The only 
 
 BRISKET OF BEEF. 
 
 thing to observe is that it should be cut cleanly 
 along the bones, in the direction indicated by 
 the dotted line, with a firm hand, in moderately- 
 thick slices. Cut it close down to the bones. So 
 that they may not have a rough and jagged 
 appearance when removed. 
 
 BEEF BROSE. 
 
 Take the liquor from the boiling of a large 
 joint of beef after the meat has been removed. 
 Make it come to the boil, and stir into it some 
 oatmeal, which has previously been browned in 
 an oven. Send it to table quite hot, but not too 
 thick. A little additional liquor or stock made 
 to boil up will remedy this. Probable cost of 
 oatmeal, 2Jd. to 3d. per pound. 
 
 BEEF CAKES. 
 
 Make a mincemeat of one pound of under- 
 done roast beef, a quarter of a pound of ham 
 or bacon, a few sweet herbs, and a seasoning of 
 salt and pepper. Add a large egg well beaten, 
 and make up into square cakes of about half 
 an inch thick. Fry quickly in good dripping, 
 with bread-crumbs and a little more egg beaten 
 up. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Time, from five to 
 six minutes. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 BEEF, COLD, SCALLOPED. 
 
 Fill some scallop-shapes with a little mince of 
 beef, highly-seasoned with salt, pepper, and a 
 little grated ham or tongue. Add to it as much 
 stock with a, little walnut pickle as the meat 
 will absorb when heated gently over the fire. 
 The mince must not be thm ajd watery. Fill 
 the shapes and cover them with mashed potato 
 or bread-crumbs. Warm in the oven, with butter 
 sliced over the top, which should be prettily 
 marked and of a nice brown colour. Time to 
 warm, about ten minutes. Probable cost, with- 
 out the meat, 6d. or 8d. 
 
 BEEF, COLD ROAST, MINCED. 
 
 Mince about three-quarters of a pound of beef, 
 and chop into it a seasoning of herbs and shallot. 
 Brown a lump of butter with a little flour in a 
 frying-pan, add some stock broth, and simmer 
 with the seasoning for two or three minutes. 
 Put the mince into a stewpan, pour the gravy 
 over, and simmer again till tender. Serve with 
 mashed potatoes or sippets of bread. Time, 
 fifteen mmutes. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 BEEF, COLLARED. 
 
 Bone and skin about twelve pounds of thin 
 flank beef, and rub it well with a mixture of 
 common salt, saltpetre, and a little sugar. Let 
 it stand for five days, then wash off the pickle ; 
 drain, and dry the beef with a cloth. Prepare 
 some strips of bacon, make notches in the meat, 
 and lay them into the cuts ; then take two large 
 table-spoonfuls of finely-chopped parsley, one 
 of sweet herbs, a dozen cloves well pounded, a, 
 salt-spoonful of cayenne, a quarter of an ounce 
 of mace, and half a nutmeg grated. Mix well 
 together and strew the mixture over the inside 
 part of the meat, taking care that every part 
 shall be equally covered. Roll up and tie 
 tightly; put it, well secured in a cloth, into a 
 saucepan of boiling water, boil up, then simmer 
 slowly for six hours. When ready take off the 
 cloth and put the beef into a, mould. Set a 
 weight on the top and let it stand till cold. 
 When sent to table garnish with parsley. Pro- 
 bable cost, 7d. to 8d. per pound. 
 
 BEEF COLLOPS. 
 
 Take two pounds of thinly-cut and tender 
 rump steak, and divide it into small pieces. Lay 
 the pieces in a frying-pan for two or three 
 
BEE 
 
 52 
 
 BEE 
 
 minutes. When brown put them into a stewpan 
 and pour a pint of gravy into it. Take a quarter 
 of a pound of butter rubljed into a little flour; 
 add this to the gravy with a seasoning of salt 
 and pepper, one shallot finely shred, the best part 
 of a pickled walnut, and a small tea-spoonful of 
 capers. Let the whole simmer for about ten 
 minutes. The steak may be stewed with water 
 instead of gravy if preferred. Serve in a covered 
 dish, and send hot to table. Cost of beef. Is. 4d. 
 per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 BEEF COLLOPS, MINCED. 
 
 Remove all skin from one pound of rump 
 steak, and mince it finelyi Put a little butter 
 or beef dripping into a saucepan, with an onion 
 chopped fine, and a tea-spoonful of flour, and 
 stir over the fire until nicely browned. Then 
 add the minced meat, and keep turning it for 
 ten minutes or so with a fork. Add pepper and 
 salt to taste, and as much boiling water as will 
 cover the meat. Close the lid, and let it simmer 
 very gently for about forty minutes. Serve 
 hot with mashed potatoes. Probable cost. Is. 2d. 
 
 BEEF COLLOPS, WITH ONIONS. 
 
 Make some butter hot in a frying-pan ; get 
 ready one pound of coUops, they should be cut 
 thinner than is usual for broiling; and cut two 
 middle-sized onions into rings. Dust a little 
 pepper over the collops, 'put them in the pan 
 with the onions, and when they are browned 
 xjover the pan closely up till done. This will be 
 in about ten minutes. Serve hot with a little 
 oyster pickle or walnut ketchup added to the 
 gravy in the pan. Time, three minutes to fry; 
 ten to simmer. Probable cost. Is. 4d. per pound. 
 Sufficient for two persons. 
 
 BEEF, CORNED, 
 
 Lay a large round of beef into a good pickle. 
 Let it remain for ten days or more, turning it 
 every day. Put it into a stewpan with sufficient 
 water to cover it, and let it boil very gently 
 until it is thoroughly done. Corned beef is often 
 smoked before it is boiled. Allow half an hour 
 to the pound after it has come to a boil. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. per pound. 
 
 BEEF CROQUETTES. 
 
 Finely mince a little dressed beef, season it 
 pleasantly, and moisten it with a little stiff 
 white sauce that is a jelly when cold. Spread 
 it on a dish, and when firm divide it into parts, 
 and form these into corks or balls. Dip them 
 twice in egg and bread-crumbs, place them in a 
 wire basket if it is at hand, and fry in hot fat 
 to a golden-brown colour. Drain them, dish 
 them on a napkin, and garnish with parsley. 
 Time to fry, ten minutes. 
 
 BEEF, CURRIED. 
 
 Take two pounds of beef, freed from fat, bone, 
 and gristle, and cut into small pieces. Slice two 
 onions, and put them in a saucepan with four 
 ounces of butter, two cardamoms, one clove of 
 garlic, and one inch of stick cinnamon. Cook 
 over the fire until the onions are quite tender, 
 taking care that they do not brown; then stir 
 in one table-spoonful of curry powder, one table- 
 spoonful of curry paste, £he pieces of meat, and 
 salt. Put the lid on, and let it simmer in the 
 oven, or over a very slow fire, for an hour and a 
 
 half. Add then a squeeze of lemon, and serve 
 with well-boiled rice, separately. Probable cost, 
 2s. 9d. 
 BEEF DRIPPING. 
 
 This should be removed from the pan as it 
 drips from the meat, taking care to keep suffi- 
 cient to baste with. When dripping remains in 
 the pan during the whole process of cooking a 
 joint it not only becomes discoloured and unfit 
 for use, but it is wasteful in the highest degree 
 to expose it to the action of a hot fire. Drip- 
 ping should be placed in a basin and cleared 
 from all impurities by means of boiling water 
 poured upon it. When cold, make a hole, pour 
 out the water, and turn the dripping down side 
 uppermost on a dish ; remove the dirt which will 
 be found adhering to the bottom, and put the 
 dripping by for use. If necessary, it may be 
 returned to the basin to get another cleansing 
 with boiling water. Clarify into jars for general 
 use. It will be found good enough for any 
 frying or stewing purpose to which butter is 
 applied. 
 
 BEEF, DUTCH. 
 
 Take ten pounds of the buttock of beef with- 
 out fat, rub it well with brown sugar, and allow 
 it to lie five or six hours, turning frequently 
 during the time. Put the beef into an earthen- 
 ware pan. Press into it a small table-spoonful 
 of saltpetre mixed with three table-spoonfuls 
 of salt, and rub and turn every day for a fort- 
 night. Then put it into a coarse cloth under a 
 cheese-press for twenty-four hours, and dry in 
 a chimney. When boiled it should be put into a 
 cloth. Probable cost, lOd. to Is. per pound. 
 
 BEEF, FILLET OF (k la Viennoise). 
 
 Take two pounds of lean beef, remove the 
 sinews, mince vwy fine. Mix this with a, tea- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley and one of savoury 
 herbs, a little flour, one whole and one yolk of 
 egg, and season with salt, pepper, and a little 
 grated nutmeg. "With this form some even-sized 
 balls, and flatten them out to give them the 
 shape of round fillets. Peel and slice three 
 onions, cut some slices from the centre of each 
 rather thicker than the rest, divide the rings 
 carefully, and reserve the largest for frying 
 separately. Dissolve an ounce of butter in a 
 frying-pan, and fry the divided onions until 
 of a golden colour; put them in a small stew- 
 pan with sufficient brown sauce to keep them 
 moist, and simmer gently for about twenty 
 minutes. Dredge the prepared fillets with a 
 little flour, and fry in butter in a frying-pan. 
 Dip the onion rings into flour, then into white 
 of egg, and again in flour, place them in a 
 frying basket, and fry a golden colour. Dish up 
 the flllets, put a spoonful of stewed onions on 
 the centre of each, ornament round with the 
 fried onion rings. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 
 BEEF, FILLET OF, BRAISED. 
 
 Take a fillet and roll it together, so aa to 
 bring the fat into the centre. Place a few slices 
 of ham and little gravy into a braising or stew- 
 pan, on which place the meat; cover it with 
 chopped carrots, celery, small onions, a pickled 
 chilli, a gherkin sliced, sweet herbs, mace, a 
 little allspice, and salt. Simmer until the meat 
 is tender. Brown it before the fire, or with a 
 
BEE 
 
 53 
 
 BEE 
 
 salamander; skim and season the sauce, and 
 serve with vegetables and sauce on the same dish. 
 
 BEEF, FILLET OF, DRESSED ON THE SPIT. 
 
 Soak from four to five pounds of the fillet of 
 beef for two days in vinegar, seasoned with 
 thyme, onions, parsley, salt, and pepper, or if 
 preferred, oil may be used instead of vinegar. 
 When drained wrap it in an oiled paper, and 
 put it on the spit before a quick fire. Probable 
 cost. Is. 4d. per pound. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. 
 
 BEEF, FILLET OF, WITH MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Take a fillet of beef whole, and after trimming 
 it into shape, make an incision into it length- 
 ways, and insert a long strip of bacon previously 
 rolled in. finely chopped shallot and parsley and 
 a good dusting of pepper. Tie up the fillet 
 carefully with tape. Take a large slice of bacon, 
 mince it very small with savoury herbs, a clove 
 of garlic, and an onion ; place this mixture in 
 a little butter at the bottom of a stewpau, and 
 when it melts put the fillets upon it, and let- it 
 brown. Pour in a pint of tomato sauce and a 
 little rich gravy, and simmer for two hours. 
 Strain off the sauce, place the meat ^upon a 
 very hot dish, remove the tape, garnish with 
 button mushrooms and fried parsley, and pour 
 some of the sauce over. Probable cost, 5s. 
 
 BEEF FORCEMEAT. 
 
 Take one pound of lean beef, quarter of a 
 pound of beef suet, and half a pound of fat 
 bacon ; cut them into small pieces, and add half 
 a tea-spoonful of powdered thyme and marjoram, 
 the same of ground allspice, and half the quan- 
 tity of pounded mace. Put all into a mortar 
 and pound them to a paste, with two well- 
 beaten eggs. Season with pepper and salt. 
 Probable cost. Is. 4d. 
 
 BESF, FRENCH, STEWED. 
 
 Beat two pounds of rump steak with a rolling- 
 pin to make it tender, and then lard it thor- 
 oughly with strips of bacon. Place it in a stew- 
 pan with some good stock, epice, salt, garlic, 
 thyme, parsley, and half a pint of white wine. 
 Stew gently for four or five hours ; take out the 
 meat, glaze it, and put away to cool. Next re- 
 duce the stock until it jellies, clear it with white 
 of egg, flavour with lemon, and strain through 
 a jelly-bag into a pie-dish. Serve the meat cold, 
 garnished with pieces of the jelly, cut up into 
 squares or diamonds. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 BEEF, FRICANDEAU OF. 
 
 Lard about three pounds of the rump or fillet 
 or sirloin. Pound three or four cloves, six whole 
 allspice, and two blades of mace. Mix a little 
 pepper and salt with these ingredients, and 
 sprinkle it over the meat. Put it into a stew- 
 pan with a pint of medium stock, a glass of 
 white wine, a bunch of savoury herbs tied 
 together, two shallots, and a, little more pepper 
 and salt. Stew the meat very slowly for two 
 hours, when it will be done. . Remove it from 
 the stewpjn and cover to keep hot. Skim all 
 the fat from the gravy, strain, and set it over 
 the fire to boil till it is reduced to a glaze. 
 Then pour it over the top, and send it to table 
 with sorrel round the dish. Sorrel, like spinach. 
 
 requires good washing and picking ; put it into 
 a stewpan with only the water that clings to 
 it. Stir well to prevent sticking or burning; 
 drain out all the water ; this must be done 
 effectually; add a little butter and some good 
 gravy, and stew till done. A little sugar may 
 be added if there is too much acidity. Stew 
 the sorrel for twenty minutes. Probable cost, 
 OS. 6d. Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 BEEF FRICO (Charles X.'s favourite dish). 
 
 Beat and lard a juicy, tender steak of two 
 pounds ; lay it into a close-fitting covered stew- 
 pan, with equal quantities of water and vinegar. 
 Add a little vegetable, particularly onion, and 
 stew gently for two hours, but do not allow it 
 to burn or stick to the pan. "When cold cut the 
 meat into strips, smear it with beaten egg, and 
 strew over bread-crumbs well-seasoned with 
 pepper, shallot, and salt. Fry till it is of a light 
 brown colour, which will be in about ten 
 minutes. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. 
 
 BEEF, FRIED RUMP STEAK. 
 
 Cut the steak rather thinner than for broiling, 
 and with a little fat. Put it into a hot pan of 
 clarified butter or dripping, and turn frequently 
 until done. Serve in about eight or ten minutes, 
 seasoned with salt, pepper, and a little mush- 
 room ketchup; or with » gravy made in the 
 frying-pan and seasoned with Harvey's sauce, 
 or according to taste. Probable cost. Is. 4d. per 
 pound. 
 
 BEEF FRITTERS. 
 
 Scrape one poun.d of meat from a piece of cold 
 roast beef, and season it with pepper and salt. 
 Have ready a batter made with three-quarters 
 of a pound of flour, and about half a pint of 
 water. Blend these two well together, and stir 
 in a piece of butter about the size of an egg, 
 which has been melted before the fire. Whisk 
 the whites of two eggs, and add to the batter 
 with the scraped meat. Stir well, and drop 
 only a small quantity at a time into the pan, 
 when the lard or dripping is boiling. Turn, 
 that both sides may be brown. From eight to 
 ten minutes will be sufficient to cook them over 
 a, steady fire. Dry, and send to table on a 
 napkin. Probable cost, about 6d. to 8d., with- 
 out meat. Sufficient for two persons. 
 
 BEEF, GALANTINE OF. 
 
 Take one pound of beef and half a pound "of 
 bacon, and cut into very small pieces. Put into 
 a basin with six ounces of br-iad-crumbs, and 
 season with pepper and salt. Beat up two eggs 
 with one gill of stock, pour into the other in- 
 gredients, and mix well. Form into a short roll 
 with the hands, tie in a pudding cloth, boil for 
 two and a half hours, press slightly until cold, 
 and pour a rich glaze over. Probable cost. Is. 8d. 
 
 BEEF GOBBETS. 
 
 Cut two pounds of lean beef into small pieces, 
 put it into a stewpan with water sufficient only 
 to cover it, and allow it to simmer gently for an 
 hour. Then add sliced carrots and turnips, a 
 head of celery minced, and a small bunch of 
 savoury herbs, with salt to taste, a crust of 
 bread, and half a tea-cupful of rice. Enclose 
 in a clean muslin bag a few peppercorns, three 
 
BEE 
 
 54 
 
 BEE 
 
 or four cloves, and a small blade of mace. Put 
 the lid on the pan, and let the whole stew again 
 for another half hour, or until the meat is quite 
 tender. Take out the crust, spice, and herbs. 
 Place the meat on slices of toasted bread, pour 
 the liquid in which it was stewed over it, and 
 serve quickly, as the dish is best hot. Probable 
 cost of beef, lOd. per pound. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. 
 
 BEEF, GRAVY, TO KEEP IN STORE. 
 
 Put four or five pounds of gravy beef, free 
 from fat, into a stewpan with one pint of water, 
 a carrot sliced, a good-sized onion, a head of 
 celery, a thick slice of cooked ham, and a couple 
 of cloves. Close the lid of the pan and let it 
 stew until the water has nearly dried up, tak- 
 ing care that neither meat nor vegetables get 
 burnt or even stick to the pan. Then add three 
 ([uarts of boiling water. Remove the pan from 
 the top of the fire, but put it near enough to 
 keep the liquid from boiling too fast. When 
 well boiled and reduced to two quarts, strain 
 through a sieve, and when cold take off the fat. 
 This gravy will serve for game or poultry, and 
 will keep good several days. Probable cost of 
 beef, 8d. per pound. 
 
 BEEF GRISKINS (of Cold Meat, Roast or Boiled). 
 
 The best of these are the thin part of the ribs, 
 the breast, or other portions of the bullock in 
 which the fat and lean are equally mixed. Finely 
 chop one or two onions or shallots, some parsley, 
 and mix them with pepper, salt, grated nut- 
 meg, and oiled butter, which last must be kept 
 sufficiently warm to remain liquid. Cut the 
 beef into slices about an inch thick ; steep them 
 in the above, turning them over from time to 
 time. When they are well soaked, press them 
 on both sides in bread-crumbs mixed with a 
 little grated cheese. Grill them over a gentle 
 :fire till they are thoroughly heated, and nicely 
 browned on both sides. While they are broil- 
 ing, put the butter, onions, etc., in which they 
 were steeped, into a saucepan, with a couple of 
 table-spoonfuls of broth. Let it boil a few 
 minutes, shaking it about; add a tea-spoonful 
 of vinegar and a table-spoonful of ketchup, and 
 serve in a sauceboat with the broiled griskins. 
 
 BEEF, HAMBURG. 
 
 {See Hambtjeg Beep.) 
 BEEF, HASH (a la Fran^aise). 
 
 Put two ounces of butter and a little flour 
 into a stewpan; dissolve it, and throw in a 
 little chopped onion and a dessert-spoonful of 
 finely-minced parsley ; brown, but do not burn 
 the butter. When sufficiently brown, add three- 
 quarters of a pint of good boiling broth, quite 
 free from fat, and a little pepper, salt, and nut- 
 meg. Put in slices of cold beef (two pounds), 
 and allow it to heat gradually by the side of 
 the fire. Thicken the saUce with a little more 
 flour well mixed in a table-spoonful of water, or 
 beat up three eggs mixed with a table-spoonful 
 of lemon-juice; the thickening must be put in 
 when the sauce is near the point of boiling. 
 Time, fifteen minutes to stew. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 BEEF, HASH (Norman method). 
 
 Put into a bowl a large cup of boiling stock 
 or broth, a wine-glassful of red wine, a little 
 
 salt and pepper or cayenne, and some lemon 
 pickle ketchup. Fry about two dozen small silver 
 onions in butter till they are of a -pale brown 
 colour; mix in two dessert-spoonfuls of flour, 
 and stir till it has become a beautiful amber 
 colour. Pour the contents of the bowl into 
 the pan, and boil the whole until the onions are 
 done; then put some small, well-cut slices of 
 roast or boiled beef into a clean stewpan, and 
 pour the gravy and onions over them. Allow it 
 to stand till the meat has acquired the flavour 
 of the gravy ; then make it very hot, but do not 
 allow it to boil. Serve quickly. Time, twenty 
 minutes. Probable cost, exclusive of meat. lOd. 
 
 BEEF, HASH, WITH CROUTONS. 
 
 Take a pint of good stock, a table-spoonful of 
 lemon pickle, one of mushroom ketchup, a glass 
 of claret, and about a dozen silver' button 
 onions, which have been previously fried in 
 butter and well browned. Put the mixture into 
 a stewpan with the butter in which the onions 
 were fried. Set it over a, clear fire until the 
 onions are tender, then pour it all over about 
 two pounds of cold beef cut into slices. Let 
 it stand about twenty minutes, well covered; 
 then draw it nearer to the fire, but do not allow 
 it to boil. Serve up with croutons. To prepare 
 the croiitons : take two rounds of bread cut very 
 thin, make them any desired shape, long strips, 
 stars, or rounds; fry them in boiling butter a 
 nice brown colour, drain on a cloth, and serve. 
 Probable cost, without meat, 7d. or 8d. Suffi- 
 cient for four or five' persons. 
 
 BEEF HEART. 
 
 {See Bullock's Heaet.) 
 
 BEEF, HUNG. 
 
 This meat should be hung as long as is con- 
 sistent with safety to make it tender. Eub into 
 the meat weighing, say from twelve to four- 
 teen pounds, one pound of bay-salt, one pound 
 of coarse brown sugar, and six ounces of salt- 
 petre pounded and mixed together. It should 
 be rubbed every morning, and will then be 
 ready for smoking in a fortnight. Probable cost 
 of beef, lOd. per pound. Smoke the meat about 
 three weeks. 
 
 BEEF, HUNG (another way). 
 
 This recipe can be used for beef either smoked 
 or unsmoked. It may be salted dry, or put into 
 a pickle made with the same ingredients. The 
 beef must be hung for three or four days, then 
 rubbed ,with bay-salt, brown sugar, saltpetre, 
 and a little pepper and allspice ; afterwards 
 hang it up in a warm but not a hot place, rolled 
 tightly in a cloth, for a fortnight or more till it 
 has become sufficiently hard. It may be hung 
 in the corner of a chimney over a wood fire to get 
 the flavour of smoke, or sent to a smoking- 
 house. A small clove of garlic put in the pickle 
 is considered an improvement. Time, two or 
 three weeks to remain in brine. Probable cost, 
 lOd. per pound. 
 
 BEEF, HUNTERS'. 
 
 Get a nice round of beef, weighing about 
 twenty-five pounds, and hang it for two or three 
 days, according to the weather. When hung 
 long enough, put it into a salting-pan, reduce 
 the following ingredieitts to powder, and rub 
 
BEE 
 
 BEl 
 
 it into the meat every morning for eighteen or 
 twenty days, turning it at every rubbing. 
 Three ounces of saltpetre, three ounces of coarse 
 sugar, one ounce of cloves, one nutmeg, half an 
 ounce of allspice, one pound of salt, and half a 
 pound of bay-salt. When salt enough, cleanse 
 it from the brine, put a bandage round the 
 whole extent of the meat to keep it in shape, 
 and lay it in a pan with half a pint of water 
 at the bottom, and some shredded suet on the 
 top of the beef. Cover all with a paste composed 
 of flour and water, and bake it for about six 
 hours. Do not remove the paste until the heat 
 has quite gone off. The gravy left in the bottom 
 of the pan should be preserved-; it will be found 
 excellent for made dishes of any kind. The beef 
 may be glazed and garnished with savoury jelly. 
 Average, cost of beef, lOd. per pound. 
 
 BEEF KABOBS. 
 
 Take one pound of rump steak, cut it into 
 thin pieces about two inches wide and six inches 
 long, rub each piece with the juice of green 
 ginger, and lay over each a mixture prepared as 
 follows. Chop an- onion and two heads of 
 garlic very small, and pound twenty-four cloves 
 in a mortar. Mix these well together with a 
 table-spoonful of Empress curry powder, and add 
 salt to taste. Lay some of this mixture on 
 each piece of the meat, roll up, and fix on 
 skewers, then fry in butter for about ten 
 minutes. Take out the skewers, as the meat 
 will retain its shape, and serve with a gravy or 
 thin brown sauce, to which a few drops of lemon 
 juice should be added. Rice may also be served 
 with this. Probable cost. Is. 8d. 
 
 BEEF KIDNEY. 
 
 (See Bullock's Kidney.) 
 
 BEEF LIVER. 
 
 (See BtTLLOCK's Livee.) 
 
 BEEF, LUMBER, IN MADEIRA SAUCE. 
 
 Roast three pounds of beef, for half an hour 
 only. Prepare a sauce with brown stock or 
 broth, some butter, flour, cayenne, salt, pepper, 
 and a glass of Madeira. Put the half-cooked 
 beef into a stewpan with the sauce, and 
 simmer, but do not boil, for the same time. 
 Mushrooms or truffles add to the delicacy. Time, 
 half an hour to roast, same to simmer. Probable 
 cost of lumber. Is. 4d. per pound. 
 
 BEEF, MARINADE. 
 
 A pickle should be made on the day previous 
 to the marinade being required, that the meat 
 may lie in it the full time necessary. Extract, 
 by stewing, all the flavour from the following 
 ingredients, with a half pint each of vinegar 
 and water: — One clove of garlic, some sliced 
 carrots and onions, a few peppercorns, and a 
 little salt. Strain, and let it become cold. Cut 
 into slices one pound of beef from the inside of 
 a sirloin, and lay them in the pickle for twenty- 
 four hours. Have ready a little nice brown 
 gravy, and simmer the slices in it till they are 
 quite tender. Blend together a little butter and 
 flour, add this to the gravy, with a glass of port 
 wine, two dessert-spoonfuls of mushroom ket- 
 chup, and a tea-spoonful of shallot vinegar. 
 Serve With the sauce poured over the meat. Time 
 to simmer, three-quarters of an hour. Probable 
 
 cost, without meat. Is. Sufficient for three 
 persons. 
 
 BEEF MARROW BONES. 
 
 Saw the bones into short lengths, and mix 
 some flour and water into a paste to secure both 
 ends, which should also have a floured cloth 
 tied over them. Put them into boiling water, 
 and let them boil from one and a half to two 
 hours. Put small napkins round them, or a frill 
 of paper, whichever is most convenient, and re- 
 move the paste before they are sent to table. 
 Serve them on a napkin, with hot dry toast. 
 The marrow may be spread upon the toast, and 
 well seasoned with pepper and salt. When not 
 wanted for immediate use the bones should be 
 parboiled, as they will keep many days in this 
 state. Probable cost for a large leg-bone, from 
 9d. to Is. 
 
 BEEF, MINCED (k la Bourgeojse). 
 
 Brown a piece of butter, the size of a walnut, 
 rolled in flour, in » stewpan. Cut some roast 
 beef into small pieces, and put them, with a 
 little parsley, basil, thyme, pepper, and nut- 
 meg, into the brown butter. Shake the pan for 
 some minutes over a slow fire,' and add equal 
 parts of wine and stock broth. Simmer until 
 the meat is tender, and before sending to table 
 add a table-spoonful of the best oil. Time to 
 simmer, twenty minutes, or until tender. Two 
 pounds of beef will be found sufBcient for three 
 or four persona. 
 
 BEEF, MINCED, SAVOURY. 
 
 Mince very fine three or four small onions, 
 with a little thyme, parsley, chives, and tarra- 
 gon, and put them into a stewpan, with an ounce 
 of butter, over a gentle fire, until partially 
 cooked. Mix with them half a table-spoonful of 
 flour, and let them become brown. Add pepper, 
 salt, half a glass of white wine, and a glass of 
 stock. When the onions and apices are quite 
 ready, put them into the pan with a sufficient 
 quantity of cold beef finely minced, and allow 
 it to simmer at a gentle heat for half an hour. 
 Before sending to table, mir with it a spoonful 
 of mustard. 
 
 BEEF, MIROTON OF. 
 
 Put three ounces of butter into a frying-pan, 
 with three onions, thinly sliced, and a pound of 
 cold roast beef, under-cooked, if possible, and 
 cut into small slices. Turn the meat constantly, 
 so that it will be evenly brdwned on both sides. 
 When of a nice colour, put in about half a pint 
 of good gravy, with salt and pepper to taste. 
 Allow, it to simmer a few minutes, but do not 
 boil, or the meat will -be shrunken and hard. 
 Serve hot. This is a very nice and cheap dish. 
 Probable cost, about 6d., without the beef. 
 
 BEEF OLIVES. 
 
 Cut two pounds of rump steak into thin slices, 
 or if preferred leave it in one large piece. Lay 
 over it a seasoning of chopped herbs, pepper, 
 and salt ; roll up the pieces separately, and tie 
 round with a narrow tape. Get a clean stew- 
 pan, in which place one ounce of butter, half a 
 pound of bacon cut in thin slices, and some 
 chopped parsley. Put the rolls of steak into a 
 stewpan, pressing ' them closely together; turn 
 them over till they are brown, then pour a little 
 
BEE 
 
 56 
 
 BEE 
 
 stock over them, and stew gently from two to 
 three hours. When sufficiently tender, thicken 
 the gravy with a tea-spoonful of brown thicken- 
 ing, or half an ounce of butter rolled in flour, 
 and serve. Just a little mushroom ketchup, or 
 Worcester sauce, is considered by some cooks to 
 improve this dish. Probable cost for steak. 
 Is. 3d. to Is. 6d. per pound. Sufficient for six 
 persons. 
 
 BEEF OLIVES (Au Roi). 
 
 Take long, thin slices of beef, and lay over 
 them equal quantities of mushroom, parsley, 
 and chopped onion. The vegetables must be 
 carefully prepared; a spoonful of each will be 
 sufficient for six slices of meat. Mash two 
 pounds of boiled potatoes. Mix a spoonful of 
 flour to a quarter of a pint of cream, and the 
 yolks of two eggs well beaten, with a little 
 pepper and salt, and add it to the mash. Spread 
 the mixture over the olives ; roll them up, tie 
 with a narrow tape, and fry, or put them into 
 the oven for about half an hour. Serve with a 
 good brown sauce, or they may have an edging 
 of potatoes. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 
 without the meat. Is. 
 
 BEEF PALATES (au Gratin). 
 
 Beat up the yolks of two eggs, and mix them 
 when well beaten, with the following ingredi- 
 ents : — A blade of mace, pounded, with a little 
 salt and pepper, a shallot, and a sprig of pars- 
 ley, minced, two or three button mushrooms, 
 and a slice of ham, scraped finely. Cut three 
 palates, which have been cleaned and boiled 
 and had the skin removed, into long slices ; 
 spread this forcemeat over them, and roll each 
 one round, fastening with a skewer. Bake in a 
 moderate oven for half an hour, with bread- 
 crumbs, well seasoned, and thin slices of butter 
 laid over them. Probable cost, 6d. each. 
 
 BEEF PALATES, FRICASSEED. 
 
 Put six well-cleaned palates into a stewpan, 
 with just water enough to cover them; add a 
 bunch of parsley, a glass of white wine, a tea- 
 spoonful of salt and sugar, and a little pepper. 
 Simmer three hours, and strain the liquor. 
 Blend two ounces of good butter with a table- 
 spoonful of flour; dissolve it over the fire, and 
 stir in gradually half a pint of cream, with as 
 much of the liquor in which the palates were 
 boiled as will make it of the proper consistency. 
 Lay the palates into the stewpan, in neat, round 
 slices; add a couple of small cucumbers (divide 
 them into strips, and remove the seeds), two 
 or three small onions, previously boiled, a little 
 nutmeg, grated, with cayenne and salt to taste, 
 and stew twenty minutes. When ready to serve, 
 add a table-spoonful of lemon-juice to the 
 sauce. Probable cost of palates, 6d. each. 
 Sufficient for a dish to serve six or seven persons. 
 
 BEEF PALATES, FRIED. 
 
 Blanch three ox palates for ten minutes ; 
 scrape them carefully, and boil slowly for three 
 hours. When tender, take off the skin, and slice 
 them for frying. Dissolve a little butter, and 
 shred up some onion and parsley. Dip each 
 slice of palate into the butter; then into the 
 parsley and onion, which should be seasoned 
 with salt and cayenne. Pry from five to eight 
 minutes, a nice brown colour, and serve with 
 
 lemon-juice over the slices, and fried parsley as 
 garnish. Probable cost, 6d. each. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. 
 BEEF PALATES, STEWED. 
 
 Cleanse, soak, and boil the palates, as before 
 directed. Skin and cut four into slices of from 
 one to two inches broad, and let them stew in 
 some rich gravy, well seasoned with salt, cay- 
 enne, and mace, a table-spoonful of grated ham 
 or tongue, and a couple of cloves. When they 
 have stewed for about half an hour, add two 
 ounces of butter, a little flour, a glass of sherry, 
 and a table-spoonful of lemon-juice. Serve on 
 a dish in a circle, with croutons arranged alter- 
 nately with the palates. Probable cost, 6d. each. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 BEEF PATTIES. 
 
 Shred one pound of under-cooked beef, a little 
 fat and lean together; season with pepper or 
 cayenne, salt, and a little onion or shallot. 
 Make half a pound of puff-paste, not too rich, 
 stamp it into a dozen rounds, place the mince 
 on half of these, and cover them with the other 
 half. Bind the edges with white of egg, and 
 then fry the patties a light brown. Time to fry, 
 ten minutes. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for 
 six patties. 
 BEEF PATTIES (another way). 
 
 Take thick slices of bread, a week old if it can 
 be obtained, and make them of the desired form 
 and size with a tin cutter. Scoop out the middle 
 to receive the mince, prepared as in the preced- 
 ing recipe. Dip each piece of bread into cream, 
 and when drained brush them with white of 
 6gg, and dredge bread-crumbs, or bread-rasp- 
 ings, over them. Fry in good fresh butter, fill 
 them with the mince, made hot, and send to 
 table on a napkin. 
 
 BEEF, PICKLE FOR. 
 
 This pickle is intended for dry-salting. The 
 ingredients must be well pounded and mixed 
 together before the meat is rubbed with it, and 
 the beef, or hams, turned and well rubbed every 
 day until salt enough. Two pounds of common 
 salt, one and a half ounces of saltpetre, four 
 ounces of brown sugar, and one tea-spoonful of 
 black pepper, will be found to impart a gbod, 
 rich flavour to the meat. CJost of ingredients, 
 about 3d. 
 
 BEEF, PICKLE FOR (another way). 
 
 To two gallons of clear, spring water, take 
 four pounds of salt, two pounds of sugar, and 
 two ounces of saltpetre. Treacle may be used 
 with sugar, part of each, if preferred. Boil all 
 together until the scum has quite disappeared, 
 and when cold throw it over the meat to be 
 pickled. A piece of beef, weighing from four- 
 teen to . sixteen pounds, will take twelve, or 
 even fourteen days, and a ham a fortnight or 
 three weeks. Cost for two gallons, about 8d. 
 BEEF PIE, RAISED. 
 
 Cover the sides of a raised pie-mould with 
 butter, and put a lining of paste, made in the 
 following manner, neatly into it. Chop a. 
 quarter of a pound of suet, put it into a stew- 
 pan with a quarter of a pound of butter and a 
 pint of water ; when boiling, pass this through 
 a sieve into two pounds of flour, and stir it with 
 
BEE 
 
 57 
 
 BEE 
 
 I 
 
 a spoon until the heat has gone off. When the 
 dough, or paste, is quite smooth, roll it out, and 
 it is ready for the lining. Take two pounds of 
 rump steak and cut them into small coUops; 
 season them with minced parsley, pepper, and 
 salt ; dust them with flour, and lay them round 
 the mould; fill it with alternate layers of 
 notatoes, thinly sliced, and meat. Make a lid 
 or the mould with some of the paste, brush it 
 over with beaten egg, and bake about three 
 hours and a half. Put an ornamental centre to 
 the cover, that it may be more easily raised to 
 throw in some gravy as soon as it is baked. 
 Probable cost, 3s. lOd. 
 
 BEEF PIE, SAVOURY. 
 
 Lay some slices of beef at the bottom of a 
 pie-dish, then a little minced Bath- chap ; add 
 pepper and salt to taste, a little chopped onion, 
 andT a quarter of a pint of good gravy. Put a 
 layer of tomatoes over, and over these some 
 sliced potatoes and two ounces of butter. Bake 
 in a moderate oven for one hour, or until the 
 potatoes are soft and brown. Probable cost. 
 Is. 4d. 
 
 BEEF, POTTED. 
 
 Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, and a 
 covered jar that will hold about two pounds of 
 beef ; let the meat be lean, and without bone or 
 gristle. Place the jar containing the meat into 
 the saucepan; put two tea-spoonfuls of water 
 into it, and close the lid tightly that no more 
 may enter. The water in the saucepan must be 
 about an inch and a half below the lid of the 
 jar, and it should boil slowly until the meat is 
 done, which will be in about three hours and a 
 half. It should then be chopped with a knife, 
 and afterwards pounded in a mortar; adding 
 some clarified butter, the meat-juice from the 
 jar (if too much keep back a part), and a sea- 
 soning of pepper and salt. Fill into small pots, 
 and pour some melted butter over the top ; this 
 will preserve the meat good for a long time. 
 
 BEEF, PRESERVED. 
 
 (See AuSTBALiAN Beef.) 
 
 BEEF, RAGOUT OF. ' 
 
 Take one and a half pounds of top side of 
 round of beef, cut into pieces about one and a 
 half inches square, and roll in seasoned flour. 
 Fry in two ounces of dripping or butter until a 
 nice brown, and remove on to a plate. Slice an 
 onion and a carrot, and fry them, stirring in a 
 tea-spoonful of flour. When of a nut brown 
 colour stir this thickening into one pint of good 
 stock; boil in a stewpan, and when boiling add 
 the meat, and simmer one hour gently. Break 
 four ounces spaghetti or macaroni into pieces, 
 and boil in salted water fifteen minutes. Strain, 
 and make a border of it on a hot dish, and pour 
 the ragout into the centre. Garnish with 
 pickled walnuts cut into quarters. Probable 
 cost, 2s. 
 
 BEEF, RIBS OF (ii la FermiSre). 
 
 Take a rib of beef, and cover it with slices of 
 bacon well seasoned with herbs. Put into a 
 stewpan a little butter, and let it melt over the 
 fire, and place the rib in it, with some salt and 
 pepper. Expose the meat to the heat of a quick 
 fire, and when sufficiently browned on both 
 
 sides, set the stewpan farther from the fire, so 
 that it may continue to cook at a gentle heat. 
 As soon as it is sufficiently done, remove the 
 meat, and place it on a, dish. Take some small 
 cucumbers, slice, and cook them at a gentle heat 
 in the gravy, and add to the meat before serving. 
 
 BEEF, RIBS OF (a la Marseillaise). 
 
 Brown a rib of beef over a quick fire, with four 
 table-spoonfuls of good oil. When both sides 
 are browned draw the stewpan aside, and let it 
 cook gently until tender. Fry some sliced 
 onions in oil until they are brown; then add 
 vinegar, mustard, and a little stock broth. 
 Season with salt and pepper, and pour it over 
 the rib of beef. 
 
 BEEF, RIBS OF, TO CARVE. 
 
 The ribs should be cut in thin and even slices 
 from the thick end towards the thin, in the same 
 
 EIBS OP BEEF. 
 
 manner as the sirloin; this can be more readily 
 and cleanly done, if the carving-knife is first 
 run along between the meat and the end and rib- 
 bones. 
 
 BEEF, RIBS OF, TO ROAST. 
 
 The best piece to roast is the fore-rib, and it 
 should be hung for two or three days before 
 being cooked. The ends of the ribs should be 
 sawn off, the outside fat fastened with skewers, 
 and the strong sinew and chine bones removed. 
 The joint should first be placed near the fire, 
 and after a short time it should be drawn back 
 and roasted steadily. Baste freely with clarified 
 dripping at first, as there will not be sufficient 
 gravy when first put down ; keep basting at in- 
 tervals of ten minutes till done. Care must be 
 taken not to allow it to burn, as it is very easily 
 spoiled. Serve with horse-radish sauce. Prob- 
 able cost, lOd. to Is. per pound. 
 
 BEEF, RIBS OF, ROLLED. 
 
 Take five or six pounds of ribs. Bone the 
 meat and roll it round tightly. Secure it with 
 tapes, and hang it up in front of a clear fire, or 
 bake it in a good oven. Cook it carefully so 
 that it is thoroughly done throughout, and 
 baste it continually the whole time. Pour the 
 fat from the dripping-pan, sprinkle a little salt, 
 and pour about a quarter of a pint of boilingi 
 water into it. Strain this round the meat, and 
 serve garnished with scraped horse-radish. Prob- 
 able cost, 5s. 
 
BEE 
 
 58 
 
 BEE 
 
 BEEF, RIB STEAKS (d ta Bardelaise). 
 
 Cut out a thick steak from between the bones ; 
 soak it in salad-oil, and season with salt and 
 pepper. Broil on each side for five minutes. 
 Boil a small young vegetable marrow, cut it 
 into half-inch slices, glaze, and lay them, when 
 made quite hot, over the steak. Pour some Bor- 
 delaise sauce over all, and serve very hot. Time 
 to boil the marrow, ten to twenty minutes. 
 
 BEEF, RIB STEAKS (a la Maltre d'Hotel). 
 
 Prepare steaks as in preceding recipe; put 
 some Maitre d'Hotel butter on a hot dish (see 
 Maitre d'Hotel Sauce) ; lay the steaks upon 
 it and glaze over the top. Time, ten minutes 
 to broil. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Two 
 pounds sufficient for four persons. 
 
 BEEF RISSOLES. 
 
 Mince one pound of cold roast beef, the leaner 
 the better, very fine; add pepper, salt, a few 
 savoury herbs chopped small, and half a tea- 
 spoonful of minced lemon-peel ; mix all together 
 with half the weight of the beef in bread-crumbs. 
 Bind it with two eggs into a thick paste ; form 
 into balls; dip them in white of egg and bread- 
 crumbs, and fry them a rich brown. Serve with 
 a garnish of fried parsley, and with a brown 
 gravy in -■< tureen; or without the parsley, and 
 the gravy poured round the rissoles on the dish. 
 Time, from eight to ten minutes. Probable 
 cost, without meat, about 6d. 
 
 BEEF, ROAST. 
 
 For roasting, the sirloin of beef is considered 
 the prime joint. Before the meat is put upon 
 the spit, the pipe which runs down the bone 
 should be cut out ; cover the fat with a piece of 
 white paper fastened on with string. Make up 
 a good strong fire, with plenty of coals put on 
 at the back. Put it rather near the fire at first, 
 and in a short time draw it back, and keep it 
 about eigMeen inches from the grate. Baste 
 continually all the time it is roasting, at first 
 with a little butter or fresh dripping, after- 
 wards its own fat will be sufficient. If the bast- 
 ing is kept up as it should be, the joint will not 
 need to have fiour dredged over it before it is 
 removed from the fire. The time it will take 
 in roasting depends upon the thickness of the 
 piece; a piece of sirloin weighing about fifteen 
 pounds should be roasted for three hours and a 
 half, while a thinner piece, though of the same 
 "weight, may be done in three hours. It must 
 also be remembered that it takes longer to roast 
 when newly killed than when it has been kept, 
 and longer in cold weather than in warm. 
 
 BEEF, ROAST, MINCED. 
 
 Place a spoonful of flour in a pan, and brown 
 it with some butter. Add a pound of cold roast 
 teef finely minced, some gravy, or stock broth, 
 with a glass of wine, and season with herbs 
 chopped up, and salt and pepper. When nearly 
 ready, put in a little butter, and mix it with 
 the other materials. This dish may be sent to 
 table either with eggs ranged round the dish, 
 or with pieces of bread fried crisp in butter. 
 
 BEEF, ROAST, AND BOILED TURKEY SOUP. 
 
 Take the liquor in which a turkey has been 
 boiled, and the bones of the turkey and beef ; 
 put them into a soup-pot with two or three 
 
 carrots, turnips, and onions, half a dozen cloves, 
 pepper, salt, and tomatoes if they can be had; 
 boil four hours, then strain all out. Put the 
 soup back into the pot, mix two table-spoonfuls 
 of flour in a little cold water; stir it into the 
 soup, and allow it to boil. Cut some bread in 
 the form of dice, lay it in the bottom of the 
 tureen, pour the soup on to it, and colour with 
 a. little soy. 
 
 BEEF ROLL. 
 
 Take four pounds of cold roast or boiled 
 beef; mince H well; season it to taste with 
 ordinary condiments and chopped herbs, and 
 put it into a roll of pufi-paste. Bake for half 
 an hour, or longer if the paste is Shick. The 
 French prepare a roll of meat in the above 
 method, wrap a buttered paper round it, and 
 cover with a coarse paste of flour and water, 
 and bake it in a moderate oven for a couple of 
 hours, that is, if the meat weigh say four pounds. 
 The paper and crust is then removed, and the 
 roll served with a little brown gravy. As a rule, 
 any meat baked in a coarse crust this way, will 
 repay the cook for her trouble. 
 
 BEEF, ROUND OF, BOILED. 
 
 Few people^ dress a whole round, and hence 
 this recipe is' given for half a round, or, say 
 twelve pounds, from the silver or tongue side 
 of the iround. Salt it for eight or ten days, then 
 clean otf the salt or brine, . skewer it up tight, 
 and tie a piece of wide tape round it to keep it 
 well together. Put it into a saucepan of luke- 
 warm water, boil up, and keep boiling for four 
 minutes, remove the scum carefully as it rises, 
 otherwise it will sink into the beef and give it 
 an unsightly appearance. When the scum is 
 well removed, set the pan by the side of the fire, 
 and let the meat simmer very gently, allowing 
 twenty minutes for each pound of meat. Should 
 any scum stick to the meat, remove it with a 
 brush before serving. Replace the ordinary 
 skewers by silver ones, trim the round, and 
 throw over the meat some of the liquor it was 
 boiled in. Garnish with carrots, parsnips, etc. 
 Time to simmer, about three hrfurs after it boils. 
 Probable cost, about lOd. per pound. 
 
 BEEF, ROUND OF, PICKLED. 
 
 Boil six pounds of salt, two pounds of sugar, 
 and three ounces of jjowdered saltpetre in three 
 gallons of water (spring water is the best if it 
 can be procured), skim well, and when cold, 
 pour it over the joint, which should previously 
 have been rubbed during two or three days with 
 a dry mixture of the same. Some housekeepers 
 prefer this dry method throughout, rubbing 
 regularly for twenty-one days, and introducing 
 the gait only during the last fortnight. If put 
 into lukewarm water, boiled for four minutes, 
 then drawn back and simmered slowly at the rate 
 of twenty minutes to every pound, the meat will 
 be tender, and of a good colour and flavour. 
 Average cost of beef, lOd. per pound. 
 
 BEEF, SALT. 
 
 Take a, piece of beef weighing seven or eight 
 pounds and cover it with brown sugar, rub well 
 in, and allow it to remain for flve or six hours ; 
 then powder half an ounce of saltpetre and 
 press this equally on all sides to give it a 
 colour ; next, cover it with common salt and let 
 
BEE 
 
 59 
 
 BEE 
 
 it stay till the following day. Turn it, and 
 rub with the salt in the pan for five or six days ; 
 throwing the brine over it at the same time with 
 a spoon or ladle. This mode of salting im- 
 proves the flavour and prevents the meat becom- 
 ing hard. Probable cost of beef, lOd. per pound. 
 Sufficient for a dozen persons. 
 
 BEEF, SALT, FRIED. 
 
 Season some thin slices, about one pound, of 
 underdone beef, with pepper and salt ; put them 
 into a clean frying-pan with a little butter, 
 and fry until they become a light brown colour ; 
 mash some potatoes, serve them very hot with 
 the slices of beef laid on them, and garnish with 
 slices of cucumber or pickled gherkins. Time, 
 about five minutes for meat. Probable cost, 6d., 
 exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for two 
 persons. 
 BEEF SAUCE, PIQUANTE. 
 
 Put one ounce of butter and four table-spoon- 
 fuls of vinegar into a ste^pan with four finely- 
 chopped shallots, and stir over the fire with a 
 wooden spoon till the butter beconjes clear, then 
 add one ounce of flour and stir three or four 
 minutes; take one pint of bouillon or common 
 stock broth, a little colouring, and one-eighth 
 of an ounce of pepper; boil all together fifteen 
 minutes, then add one table-spoonful of chopped 
 gherkins and one of minced parsley, boil up, 
 skim, and serve in a sauce tureen as an accom- 
 paniment to boiled beef. Time, twenty minutes. 
 Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 BEEF SAUSAGES. 
 
 Clear the beef and suet from all skin, bone, 
 and gristle ; take two pounds of lean beef to 
 one pound of suet, add salt, pepper, and mixed 
 spice, and shallots, or any other tasty condi- 
 ment, according to liking, chop very fine and 
 mix well together. Some cooks prefer to pound 
 the whole in a mortar, but if the meat is well 
 minced this is needless. EoU the meat into 
 sausages and fry until they become a nice brown 
 colour, and serve in the usual way, with mashed 
 potatoes round the dish. They are more delicate 
 if pressed into sMns. It is worth notice that all 
 meat cooked with the Bkin retains its original 
 flavour, and is much preferred by connoisseurs. 
 Time to fry, ten to twelve minutes. ' Probable 
 cost, 2s. 6d. 
 BEEF SAUSAGES (Home Made). 
 
 Remove all the skin and gristle from two 
 pounds of lean beef, and mince it very finely 
 with one pound and a half of good fresh suet; 
 add, as a seasoning, one tea-spoonful of pow- 
 dered sage, the same of thyme and allspice, with 
 salt and pepper to taste ; fill thoroughly clean 
 skins, and boil as directed for black puddings. 
 Timfe, half an hour to boil. Probable cost for 
 this quantity, about 3s. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. 
 BEEF, SHIN OF, SOUP. 
 
 Take three or four pounds of shin of beef, cut 
 the meat into two or three slices down to the 
 bone, which should remain undivided and still 
 enclosed in the flesh. Plug up each end of the 
 bone with a stiff paste made of flour and water, 
 to keep in the marrow. Set it on the fire in a 
 large pot of cold water, with six or eight pepper- 
 corns and three or four cloves. Eemove the 
 
 scum as it rises. Season slightly with salt; 
 otherwise, bjr continued boiling and warming-up, 
 the broth will be so reduced as to become too 
 salt. Let it boil gently for four hoursj then make 
 it boil fast, and throw in a few peeled turnips, 
 carrots, and onions, with a small bunch of thyme 
 and parsley. When the vegetables are tender, 
 serve the soup only, with bits of toasted bread 
 floating in it. When the soup has been served, 
 take up the beef, remove the slices of meat from 
 the bone, separate them, if needed, with a knife 
 and fork, put them in the middle of a hot dish, 
 and arrang'e the vegetables round them, cut- 
 ting the carrots and turnips into shapely bits. 
 For sauce, fry chopped onions brown, stir in 
 amongst them a dessert-spoonful of flour, 
 previously mixed with a little of the soup, two 
 dessert-spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, pepper 
 and salt, stir all together, and pour it. over the 
 slices of shin, and serve. For the marrow : 
 toast a, large round of bread, lay it on a, hot 
 plate, spread the marrow roughly on it, season 
 with pepper, salt, and a little mustard, cut it 
 into as many pieces as there are guests, and 
 serve very hot. 
 
 BEEF, SHIN OF, STEWED. 
 
 Saw the bone into many pieces and put it into 
 a stewpan', with sufficient water to cover it; 
 bring it to a boil and take off the scum, this 
 must be done thoroughly, and the meat drawn 
 aside to simmer ; add to it some celery cut into 
 pieces, one good-sizsd onion, twelve black pep- 
 percorns, a bunch of sweet herbs, three or four 
 small carrots, and the same of cloves, or about 
 half a tea-spoonful of allspice; season with 
 pepper and salt, and let the whole stew very 
 gently for four hours ; boil some carrots and 
 turnips separately, cut them into shapes, and 
 serve with the meat. Probable cost, 7d. per 
 pound. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. 
 
 BEEF, SILVERSIDE OF, SALT. 
 
 A silverside of beef weighing nine pounds 
 should be put into cold water with a few carrots, 
 turnips, and onions, and boiled very slowly for 
 three and a half hours, being skimmed as often 
 as the scum comes to the top. The marrow from 
 the bone should be taken out and put on toast, 
 sprinkled with pepper, and served separately. 
 Should the vegetables appear to be cooked before 
 the meat they can. be taken out, kept hot, and 
 put in the pot again at the finish. Probable 
 cost, 9s. 
 BEEF, SIRLOIN (k la Godard). 
 
 Remove the bones from about six pounds of 
 sirloin, and pare neatly. Cut a quarter of a 
 pound of bacon into strips about one and a half 
 inches long. Make some holes in the meat with 
 a wooden skewer, and insert the strips of bacon. 
 Poll and tie firmly. Put into a braising pan one 
 sliced onion, one sliced carrot, and a bouquet 
 of herbs (see Bouquet Gaeni), moisten with a 
 gill of sherry and a pint of stock, sea- 
 son with pepper and salt, and braise 
 for two hours in a moderately hot oven. 
 Skim "off the fat, add half a pint of tomato 
 sauce and one gill of brown sauce, previously 
 warmed, and cook for another three-quarters 
 of an hour. Take up the meat and keep hot, 
 free the sauce from fat, and strain; boil for 
 another ten minutes. Add the garnishing, con- 
 
BEE 
 
 60 
 
 BEE 
 
 sisting of mushroom-heads, quartered artichoke 
 bottoms, slices of truffles, and quenelles. When 
 these have got thoroughly hot, untie the loin of 
 beef, dish up on a bed of mashed potatoes, and 
 surround with the garnishing. Pour some of 
 the sauce over the meat, and serve the remainder 
 in a sauce-boat. Probable cost, 8s. 6d. 
 
 BEEF, SIRLOIN OF, ROAST. 
 
 Choose a middle sirloin of eight or nine pounds 
 weight, with as much undercut as possible. 
 Eoast it before a clear fire or in a well-ventilated 
 oven. Cook it quickly for the first fifteen 
 minutes to harden the surface and keep in the 
 juices, then move it further away, or slacken 
 the fire if you put the joint in the oven, and 
 cook slowly. Baste continually. Strain off the 
 dripping, put a little salt in the bottom of the 
 pan, and pour a quarter of a pint of boiling 
 water on it. Strain this round the meat, gar- 
 nish with scraped horse-radish, and serve with 
 horse-radish sauce and Yorkshire pudding. 
 Time, quarter of an hour to each pound. Price 
 of sirloin, lOd. to Is. per pound. 
 
 BEEF, SIRLOIN OF, ROAST (k la St. Florentin). 
 
 Take out the suet and lay it thickly over the 
 top of the fillet, secured down with a well- 
 buttered paper. First tie the flap under the 
 fillet, and make all firm before it is put to the 
 spit. About ten minutes before it is done take 
 off the paper, dredge the meat lightly with salt 
 and dry flour, and baste it with butter. Serve 
 with Robert sauce in a tureen. Probable cost 
 of beef, 1b. per pound. 
 
 BEEF, SIRLOIN OF, TO CARVE. 
 
 A sirloin should be cut with one good firm 
 stroke from end to end of the joint, at the upper 
 portion, making the cut very clean and even 
 from A B to c. Then disengage it from the bone 
 by a horizontal cut exactly to the bone, B to D, 
 
 SIBI.OIir OF BEEF. 
 
 using the tip of the knife. Bad carving bears 
 the hand away to the rind of the beef, even- 
 tually, after many cuts, peeling it back to the 
 other side, leaving a portion of the best of the 
 meat adhering to the bone. Every slice should 
 be clean and even, and the sirloin should cut 
 fairly to the very end. Many persons cut the 
 under side whilst hot, not reckoning it so good 
 cold ; but this is a matter of taste, and so is the 
 mode of carving it. The best way is first of all 
 to remove the fat, E, which chops up well to 
 make puddings, if not eaten at table. Then 
 the under part can be cut, as already described, 
 from end to end, f to a, or downwards, as 
 shown bv the marks at H. 
 
 BEEF SKIRTS. 
 
 These should be broiled — they are best so — but 
 if liked may be stewed in a little brown gravy 
 seasoned with a table-spoonful of mushroom 
 ketchup, and another of shallot vinegar, with a 
 thickening of butter and flour. If broiled, serve 
 over spinach, or toasts fried and seasoned with 
 pepper and salt. Time to broil, eight to ten 
 minutes. Probable cost, lOd. to Is. per pound. 
 
 BEEF, SPANISH, FRICO. 
 
 Cut up two pounds of the fillet, rump, or round 
 of beef into pieces weighing about an ounce 
 each, and add cayenne pepper and salt to taste. 
 Boil two pounds of potatoes and cut them into 
 good thick slices ; place them with the meat 
 and a small cup of gravy in a close-fitting stew- 
 pan in alternate layers. Add a quarter of a 
 pound of butter and as much Spanish onion, 
 previously boiled and sliced, as may be liked. 
 Stew gently for an hour, and when nearly done 
 throw a glass of Madeira or claret over all. Prob- 
 able cost, 3s. .Sd. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 BEEF, SPICED. 
 
 A small round of about eighteen or twenty 
 pounds will take a fortnight to cure. Prepare 
 the following ingredients : one pound of common 
 salt, one ounce of saltpetre, three ounces of all- 
 spice, one of black peppercorns, and half a 
 pound of coarse sugar. Pound the saltpetre, 
 allspice, and black peppercorns, and mix well 
 together with salt and sugar. Rub all into 
 the meat ; do this every day and turn, for the 
 time mentioned. Then wash the brine off the 
 beef, and put it into an earthenware baking-dish 
 with about a pint of water and a layer of suet 
 over and under, with a common paste over the 
 dish ; bake from six to eight hours, and allow it 
 to cool thoroughly before using. Probable cost ' 
 of meat, lOd. to lid. per pound. 
 BEEF STEAK. 
 
 Let the steak be about three-quarters of an 
 inch thick (rump, for broiling, is the best) ; rub 
 the gridiron with a little fat to prevent the meat 
 from sticking, and place it with the steak over 
 a sharp clear fire — no smoke, of course ; turn 
 frequently with a knife or steak tongs, but do 
 not prick the meat with a fork, as the gravy will 
 escape and the meat become hard. Serve in a 
 hot dish with a little mushroom ketchup, or 
 other sauce or gravy at discretion, taking care 
 to put a little butter first, melted over the steak, 
 should it be a lean one. In any case it makes 
 the steak look better. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 to Is. 6d. per pound. Time, eight to ten minutes 
 to broil. Half a pound to each person is con- 
 sidered sufficient. When purchasing steak it is 
 well to remember that, when it can be afforded, 
 rump Bteak or a piece from the undercut of the 
 sirloin is best for broiling, for pies, for stewing, 
 for beef-tea, indeed, for almost every purpose. 
 When these are not to be had, chuck steak is 
 the best for stewing, buttock steak for broiling, 
 and steak from the bladebone or shoulder-piece 
 for pies. The roll of the bladebone is admirably 
 adapted for making beef-tea, and beef skirting 
 yields very rich gravy. 
 BEEF STEAK (k la Francaise). 
 
 They are best cut from the inner side of the 
 sirloin, but any prime part will do. Place two 
 pounds of steaks in a dish with a little of the 
 
BE£ 
 
 61 
 
 BEE 
 
 best Lucca oil, and let them steep in it for eight 
 or ten hours ; add to them pepper, salt, ana a 
 ■ little finely-minced parsley, and fry them until 
 they are brown ; what remains in the pan may 
 be thrown over the steaks. Butter may be sub- 
 stituted for oil if preferred, and the steaks served 
 up around the dish with olive sauce in the centre. 
 Average cost of beef. Is. 4d. per pound. Time to 
 fry, from eight to ten minutes. SufEicient for 
 four or five persons. 
 BEEF STEAK (,k la Mode). 
 
 Take two pounds of rump steak that is not 
 over-fat, lard, and put it into a stewpan with 
 some slices of lemon. Let it cook slowly, and 
 when all the gravy is drawn from it, add a little 
 stock and port wine in equal quantities. Boil 
 slowly until the broth thickens, and when ready 
 to serve, squeeze the juice of a lemon over it. 
 Time, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 
 Is. 3d. to Is. 6d. per pound. Sufficient for three 
 or four persons. 
 BEEF STEAK AND CUCUMBERS. 
 
 When cucumbers are plentiful this makes an 
 economical and pleasant dish. Peel and slice a 
 large cucumber and three or four onions. Brown 
 them in a frying-pan. Broil or fry two pounds 
 of rump steak, then put it on a dish. Simmer 
 the cucumber and onions in half a pint of good 
 gravy, and pour round the meat. Time, ten 
 minutes to fry if thick. Probable cost of steak. 
 Is. 4d. per pound. Sufficient for four persons. 
 BEEF STEAK AND FRIED POTATOES. 
 
 Get steak from the fillet of the sirloin, if pos- 
 sible, and broil it over a clear fire; the steak 
 should be about a third of an inch thick, and 
 turned frequently for five minutes, when it will 
 be sufficiently cooked; put a quarter of a pound 
 of butter into a frying-pan, with seven or eight 
 potatoes sliced long and thin, and fry till they 
 become a, good brown colour. The butter in 
 which the potatoes were fried should be used to 
 warm up the seasoning, and a tea-spoonful of 
 minced herbs. When ready, put the herbs under 
 the steak and garnish with the potatoes. Allow 
 half a pound of steak for each person. 
 BEEF STEAK AND KIDNEY PUDDING. 
 
 Take one pound of rump steak, beat and cut 
 it into long strips for rolling, or, if preferred, 
 pieces about half an inch square. Season well 
 with pepper and salt, and dredge over it a little 
 flour ; cut half a pound of beef kidney into thin 
 slices, season in the same way, and lay it with 
 the beef into a basin lined with a good suet 
 paste, about half an inch thick; throw in a little 
 water and close over the top securely with paste. 
 Let it boil three hours, and keep the saucepan 
 well filled up all the time. A few mushrooms 
 or oysters may be put into the pudding, and will 
 be a very great improvement. Cost, rump steak. 
 Is. 3d. to Is. 6d. per pound; kidney, lOd. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 BEEF STEAK, BREADED. 
 
 Procure a two-inch thick steak from the best 
 part of the round ; trim off all the fat, and put 
 the steak into an earthen dish ; put a quarter of 
 a tea-spoonful of pepper in a vessel holding a 
 pint, cover with two gills of olive oil, and fill 
 the vessel to the brim with good vinegar. Pour 
 this over the steak, cover the dish and let it 
 
 remain two or three hours, turning the steak 
 frequently. Put the trimmings of fat into a 
 baking pan, and lay the steak over them. 
 Moisten a few sifted bread-crumbs with a little 
 hot milk, add butter, salt, pepper, a tea-spoonful 
 of Worcestershire sauce, and some powdered- 
 sweet herbs. Mix this together with the yolk 
 of an egg, and spread the mixture over the top 
 of the meat. Place the pan in a hot oven and 
 roast from twenty-five to thirty minutes. This 
 steak may be served with a sauce or not. Prob- 
 able cost, 2s. 
 BEEF STEAK EN CASSEROLE. 
 
 Melt three table-spoonfuls of butter, add six 
 onions cut in slices and cook until light brown. 
 Put the onions into the casserole, rinsing it out 
 with a little hot water. Cut two pounds of beef, 
 taken from the top of the round, into pieces for 
 serving and brown them in a hot omelet-pan. 
 Pvit them on top of the onions in the casserole, 
 with a sprig of parsley, salt and pepper and 
 enough hot water to cover the onions. Cover 
 and cook slowly for two hours or until nearly 
 tender. Skim off the fat, add one cup of sliced 
 potatoes which have been parboiled, and more 
 seasoning if needed. Serve from casserole. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 BEEF STEAK, FRIED. 
 
 If no gridiron is at hand, put some butter or 
 dripping in a frying-pan and let it boil ; then 
 lay in a steak of halt an inch thick and with 
 steak tongs or the side of a knife move it con- 
 tinually to prevent it from burning. When suffi- 
 ciently well done on one side, which will be seen 
 by the colour being well spread over the meat, 
 turn it on the other, continuing to move it about 
 with the tongs in a similar manner. If a fork 
 must be used, do not stick it into the juicy part 
 of the meat, but into the fat or edge. When 
 done serve on a hot dish with a little butter 
 (not melted) and some mushroom ketchup, 
 tomato, or other sauce or grayr as preferred. 
 Probable cost. Is. 4d. per pound. 
 BEEF STEAK, FRIED (another way). 
 
 Cut the steak as for broiling ; on being put 
 into the pan, shift and turn it frequently. Let 
 it be done brown all over, and placed in a hot 
 dish when finished. Gravy may be made by 
 pouring a little hot water into the pan (after the 
 steak is out, and the fat poured away), with a 
 little pepper, salt, ketchup, and flour; the 
 gravy so formed is to be poured into the dish 
 with the steak; send to table immediately. If 
 onions are required, cut them in thin slices, and 
 fry till they are soft. They should be fried 
 after the steak, and merely with part of the fat. 
 
 BEEF STEAK PIE. 
 
 Take a pie-dish according to the size required ; 
 two pounds of fresh rump steak cut into long 
 thin strips will make a good pie; lay out the 
 strips with a small piece of fat on each, a sea- 
 soning of salt and pepper, and a dust of flpur; 
 two tea-spoonfuls of salt and one of pepper will 
 be sufficient for the whole pie; roll up each 
 strip neatly and lay it in the dish, and be- 
 tween each layer sprinkle a little of the season- 
 ing and flour ; a shred onion or shallot is some- 
 times liked, and a few oysters will be a great 
 improvement ; put an edging of paste round the 
 dish, throw in water enough to cover the 
 
BEE 
 
 G2 
 
 BEE 
 
 rolls of Meat, and lay a crust of about half an 
 inch thick over all ; ornament the top tastefully, 
 and bake for two hours in a moderate oven. 
 Cost of steak, Is. 3d. to Is. 6d. per pound. Suffi- 
 cient for four or five persons. 
 
 BEEF STEAK PIE WITH OYSTERS. 
 
 Three pounds of rump steak will make an ex- 
 cellent pie. Get beef that has been hung for 
 some days, so that the beating process may not 
 be required. Make a seasoning with half a dozen 
 shallots, half an ounce of pepper and salt mixed 
 together, a very little cayenne and pounded 
 cloves, and a table-spoonful of flour as a thicken- 
 ing for the gravy ; divide the meat into pieces of 
 two and a half inches, put a layer in the dish 
 with the seasoning equally distributed, and some 
 large oysters, parboiled and bearded, in alter- 
 nate layers, till all is used up. Reduce the 
 liquor of the oysters, take equal quantities of it 
 and good gravy to make half a pint, pour it 
 into the pie and cover with the paste. Bake for 
 two hours or more. Sufficient for seven or eight 
 persons. 
 
 BEEF STEAK, PORTERHOUSE. 
 
 Cut a steak from the sirloin about one inch in 
 thickness. It should have the undercut left on, 
 and must be cut from the chine-bone portion. 
 Rub all over with a cut shallot or clove of garlic, 
 and grill over a clear fire. It should be turned 
 every minute until done. When cooked, lay on 
 a very hot dish, and garnish with horse-radish 
 and fried mushrooms. Probable cost, 3a. 6d. 
 
 BEEF STEAK PUDDING, BAKED. 
 
 Make a batter with two eggs, three-quarters 
 of a pint of milk, and half a pound of flour, mix 
 smoothly, and pour a little of it into a pie-dish ; 
 season one pound of steak and half a pound of 
 kidney according to taste (they should be cut 
 into small pieces), and lay them on the top of 
 the batter ; fill up the dish with the remainder, 
 and bake in a quick oven for about an hour and 
 three-quarters. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Suffi- 
 cient for four or five persons. 
 
 BEEF STEAK, ROASTED, AND STUFFED. 
 
 Fry in a, little butter the following ingredi- 
 ents, and make a forcemeat of them and two 
 French rolls, which have been previously soaked 
 in milk ; see that the frying-pan is quite clean, 
 and put into it one ounce of butter, a slice of 
 lean ham, finely minced, a bay-leaf, a little 
 minced parsley, two shallots, a clove, two blades 
 of mace, and a few mushrooms. Put the rolls 
 into a stewpan after having squeezed out all the 
 milk, and add to them three or four table- 
 spoonfuls of rich stock ; then put half a pint of 
 stock to the ingredients in the frying-pan, boil 
 for twenty minutes, and strain the liquid on to 
 the rolls in the stewpan, place it over the fire 
 and stir in a little butter ; vrhen dry Seep still 
 stirring ; then add the yolks of two eggs to bind 
 it. Have ready two pounds of rump steak, cut 
 thick, season it with pepper and salt, and roll it 
 up tight with the above forcemeat carefully en- 
 closed, that it may not drop out. Roast it for 
 one hour and a half before a good, clear fire, 
 basting constantly with butter, and serve with 
 brown gravy. Probable cost, 2s. lOd. Suffi- 
 cient for four persons. 
 
 BEEF STEAK, RUMP. 
 
 A good rump steak should be about three- 
 quarters ot an inch thick, and cut from meat 
 that has hung for a few days to make it tender. 
 Pare away the sinew, trim it neatly, brush it 
 over with oil, season well with pepper, and put 
 it on a heated gridiron, the bars of which have 
 been rubbed with good fat or suet to keep the 
 steak from adhering to them. Be sure the fire 
 is clear before commencing to broil; turn the 
 steak often. In from eight to ten minutes one 
 of or^nary thickness will be done enough. Have 
 ready a very hot dish on which a shallot, or 
 onion, if preferred, has been rubbed thoroughly 
 to extract the juice. Slightly warm a table- 
 spoonful of mushroom ketchup or other beef 
 sauce, and dish up the meat quickly with, some 
 butter on the top, and seasoned with pepper and 
 salt. Use quite fresh butter, or it will spoil the 
 fiavour of the steak ; and garnish the dish with 
 horse-radish grated. Oyster, onion, or any 
 other sauce liked may be served with it. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 4d. per pound. 
 
 BEEF, STEWED, AND CELERY SAUCE. 
 
 Simmer three heads of celery and two onions 
 in a pint of good gravy till all are tender, then 
 add two pounds of cold boiled or roast beef cut 
 into thick pieces, and stew gently for ten or 
 twelve minutes. The celery should be cut evenly 
 in pieces of about two inches long. Serve with 
 potatoes slitied and fried crisp. Average cost, 
 8d., exclusive of meat. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. 
 
 BEEF, STEWED, AND MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Slice two onions and fry in a little butter; 
 when quite cooked add a little fiour and two 
 table-spoonfuls of ketchup, season with pepper 
 and salt; allow all to cook for about ten min- 
 utes. Cut some cold beef in very thin slices, 
 sprinkle it with flour, and fry it with the onions 
 and one pound of fresh mushrooms. Season to 
 taste, and serve very hot. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 BEEF, STEWED (French method). 
 
 Take two pounds of steak, cut thick. Brown 
 on both sides in fat put in a stewpan, and cover 
 with broth. Mince a small carrot, two shallots, 
 a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and two ounces of 
 bacon. Fry these for a minute in butter, pour 
 a glass of claret over them, and put the mixed 
 vegetables upon the steak. Simmer gently two 
 hours. Strain, if necessary thicken the sauce 
 with cornflour, add pepper and salt. Pour it 
 over the steak, and serve. Probable cost. Is. 4d. 
 per pound. Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 BEEF, STEWED (Irish method). 
 
 Divide two pounds of beef into small pieces 
 — any part will do— and put them into an earth- 
 enware pan with a tight-fitting cover, with a 
 pint and a half of water, two or three onions, 
 a carrot cut up, and a little salt and pepper. 
 Stew all together in the oven for an hour or 
 more. Lay on the top some peeled potatoes, 
 cover up and put it back into the oven for an 
 hour and a half more, when the potatoes will 
 be reduced to a mash, and the stew will be, as 
 all Irish stews are, excellent. Probable cost, 2s. 
 Sufficient for four or five persona. (See Irish 
 Stew.) 
 
BEE 
 
 6b 
 
 BEE 
 
 BEEF, STEWED, LEG OF. 
 
 Make a forcemeat of one pound and a quarter 
 of flnely-shredded suet, some savoury and mar- 
 joram, a few cloves pounded, and a little pepper 
 and salt, mixing all well together. Make several 
 good-sized holes in a part of a leg of beef (about 
 six or seven pounds will do), that has had salt 
 rubbed over it for two or three days previous, 
 and fill them with the forcemeat. Put it into a 
 deep baking-pan with some of the forcemeat 
 over the top, and the pan more than half full of 
 water. Keep the pan closely covered, and let 
 the meat stew for four hours. The forcemeat 
 from the top will serve to garnish, and may be 
 cut into any form for the purpose. That pressed 
 into the meat, if lightly put in, will much im- 
 prove the flavour. Probable cost, 7d. per pound. 
 Sufficient for seven or eight persons. 
 BEEF, STEWED, WITH OYSTERS. 
 
 Take two pounds of tender steak about an 
 inch and a half thick. Melt two ounces of but- 
 ter in a stewpan, put in the steak, and brown 
 it lightly. Dredge a little flour over it, and 
 pour in as much boiling stock as will cover the 
 bottom of the pan but not the meat. Add 
 the strained liquor from a dozen and a half 
 oysters. Cover the pan closely, and stew the 
 meat very gently till tender. Skim the liquor, 
 season it with pepper and salt, and add the oys- 
 ters. Put the beef in a hot dish, and send to 
 table with the oysters upon it and the gravy 
 poured round it. Time to stew the beef, about 
 one hour and a half. Probable cost, is. 
 
 BEEF STOCK. 
 
 Bone a rump of beef and tie it neatly together ; 
 break the bones and place both meat 
 and bones into a stewpan with two quarts 
 of water to every three pounds of meat. 
 Heat it very gradually and slowly by the 
 side of the fire, removing the scum before 
 and after it boils. Add salt in proportion to the 
 water, about two ounces to the gallon. When 
 all the scum has been removed, throw in three 
 or four carrots, and the same of turnips, a small 
 head of celery, a few young leeks, an onion stuck 
 with eight cloves, a small, tearspoonful of pepper- 
 corns, and a, bunch of savoury herbs. Let this 
 stew for five hours very gently, when the beef 
 will be done but not overdone. It may be 
 served with young cabbages, boiled in the usual 
 way, pressed, and then stewed for seven or eight 
 minutes in some of the beef stock or broth. 
 This broth, in France, is made the basis of all 
 soups and gravies, and with' the addition of a 
 knuckle of veal, poultry trimmings, a calf's foot, 
 and a little ham, it will make a strong rich 
 stock. If wanted to be used at the same time 
 with the meat, strain, remove the fat, and serve 
 with toasted bread. 
 BEEF SUET FOR PIECRUST. 
 
 Shred some suet and clear it from all skin and 
 fibre, put it into a basin, cover it with boiling 
 water, and place it on a hot plate, or near the 
 fire. When melted, pass it through a strainer 
 into another vessel containing boiling water, 
 and when cold, pierce the fat and let the water 
 run out. If any sediment remain it will be 
 found on, the underside of the caked fat, and 
 can be scraped off with a knife. Suet thus pre- 
 pared, with the addition of a little lard or oil. 
 
 can be worked into the consistency of butter, 
 and may be used with success in making crusts 
 for meat pies. Dripping may be cleansed in the 
 same manner. Its adaptation to many pur- 
 poses will depend on the management in clari- 
 fying, etc. 
 BEEF TEA. 
 
 Freshly-killed, lean, juicy beef is required for 
 making beef tea. Steak, or the roll of the 
 blade-bone of beef, are the best portions for the 
 purpose. Take away all fat, skin, gristle, etc., 
 and leave only the lean meat ; cut this into very 
 small pieces, put into a jar, and pour cold water 
 over it, allowing a pint of water for a pound of 
 beef. Let it soak tor an hour, when the water 
 should be red, and the meat white; tnen cover 
 it closely, and set the jar in a deep saucepan 
 with boiling water to come half-way up its 
 height. Simmer by the side of the fire for two or 
 three hours. Pour it out, skim -from the surface 
 with a spoon any particles of fat that may be 
 seen, and take away the remainder with a sheet 
 of clean paper. Season to taste, and the beef 
 tea is ready. If more convenient the jar may be 
 set in a cool oven instead of in a saucepan of 
 water. 
 
 BEEF TEA FROM FRESH MEAT. 
 
 Take one pound of lean beef, entirely free 
 from fat and sinew ; mince it finely and mix it 
 well with one pint of cold water. Put it on the 
 hob, and let it remain heating very gradually- 
 for two hours. At the end of that time, add 
 half a tea-sp.oonful of salt and boil gently for 
 ten minutes. Remove the scum as it rises. This 
 is beef tea pure and simple. When a change of 
 flavour is required, it is a good plan to take one 
 pound of meat composed of equal parts of veal, 
 mutton, and beef, and proceed as above. Or, 
 instead of using water, boil a carrot, a turnip, 
 an onion, and a clove, in a pint of water, and 
 when the flavour is extracted strain the liquid 
 through a fine sieve; let it get quite cold, and 
 pour it upon the minced meat, soaking and boil- 
 ing it for the same time. Probable cost. Is. 
 per pint. Sufiicient for one pint of beef tea. 
 
 BEEF TEA OF MIXED MEAT. 
 
 To some invalids the taste of beef tea is un- 
 welcome ; the flavour is much improved by the 
 following mixture. Take equal quantities of 
 beef, mutton, and veal, one pound of each, with- 
 out fat, put them, cut up in small pieces, to 
 simmer four hours in three pints of water. When, 
 boiling, skim thoroughly and draw the sauce- 
 pan aside, that the juices' may be extracted with- 
 out any waste of the liquid. Strain and serve 
 with dry toast in any form. Time, four hours. 
 Cost of meat, about Is. per pound. 
 BEEF TEA, STRONG. 
 
 Allow two pounds of lean meat to one quart 
 of water, put it into a jar, which place in a pam 
 of boiling water. The meat should be well cut 
 up, and the top of the jar secured so that no 
 water may enter. Boil gently for four or five 
 hours, strain and squeeze out all the tea. This 
 may be flavoured with onion, clove, etc., accord- 
 ing to the taste of the invalid and strength of 
 the stomach. Sufficient to make a pint of tea. 
 BEEF TO IMITATE VENISON. 
 
 Take three pounds of rump, sirloin, or but- 
 tock, without bone — the loin is best. Lay it in 
 
BEE 
 
 64 
 
 BEE 
 
 a pan and throw over it one glass of vinegar and 
 a glass of port wine, having previously rubbed 
 it with four ounces of sugar. Keep in a cool, 
 dry place, and turn it often. In five or six days 
 it will be ready; then make a raised crust, 
 season with salt, cayenne, and mace, put some 
 butter over the top of the cover, and bake four 
 hours in a slow oven. Boil down the bones to 
 make gravy, add a glass of port wine, strain, 
 and pour boiling into the pie. Probable cost of 
 meat, la. per pound. Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 BEEF TONGUE. 
 
 {See Btillock's Tongue; Ox Tongtje.) 
 
 BEEF TRIPE, TO BOIL. 
 
 Cut the tripe into small pieces and put into 
 Aot milk and water, equal parts, sufficient to 
 cover it, and boil until tender, which will be in 
 about two hours. Get ready some onion sauce, 
 prepared as given below, and throw it over the 
 tripe when dished. Peel some onions and let 
 them remain a few minutes in salted water; 
 then boil them till tender, changing the water 
 ■when half done. If Spanish onions are used this 
 will not be necessary. Drain them thoroughly, 
 chop them, and add: to them some sauce com- 
 posed of two ounces of butter, three-quarters of 
 a pint of milk, and a tea-spoonful of flour. Put 
 the onions to the butter and boil for a minute 
 before adding to the tripe. Cost, about 8d. per 
 pound. 
 
 BEEF TRIPE, TO FRICASSEE. 
 
 Stew gently in milk and water two pounds of 
 tripe, cut into strips of equal lengths, with a 
 bunch of parsley and an onion. When it has 
 simmered one hour add the peel of, half a lemon, 
 an ounce of butter rubbed in flour, and a quarter 
 of a pint of cream. Season with grated nut- 
 meg, salt, and pepper, and when it has simmered 
 another hour serve with the sauce over, and an 
 edging of rice round the dish. Probajole cost. 
 Is. 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 BEEF TRIPE, TO ROAST. 
 
 Boil two pounds of tripe for an hour or more, 
 and then cut into convenient-sized pieces. 
 Spread them out, and lay over each a rich veal 
 stuffing. Skewer and tie securely into rolls. 
 Baste continually with butter, and dredge flour 
 over them. They may either be spitted or baked 
 in an oven. Serve with sliced lemon and un- 
 melted butter. Probable cost, 8d. per pound 
 for the best tripe. Time to roast, three-quarters 
 of an hour. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 BEEF, WITH SAUCE ESPAGNOLE. 
 
 Lard a piece of the inside fillet (from four to 
 five pounds will be a nice size) and lay it — 
 seasoned with salt and pepper — ^in vinegar for 
 ten or twelve hours. Put it immediately to 
 roast before a quick fire, baste well with butter 
 and the drippings from the meat. When done, 
 glaze over the top, and serve with the above 
 sauce (see various recipes for Spanish Sauce). 
 Time to roast, quarter of an hour to the pound. 
 
 BEEF, YORKSHIRE PUDDING FOR. 
 
 Take eggs, flour, and milk, according to the 
 size of the pudding required. Allow an egg to 
 every heaped table-spoonful of flour, and salt to 
 taste. Beat it to a proper consistency with good 
 new milk ; it should be thinner than for boiled 
 
 batter. If this pudding be not required for a 
 large family a separate compartment may be 
 used for it, and the other part of the dripping- 
 pan may receive the gravy required to throw 
 over the meat. Inany case, place the dripping- 
 pan and joint to the fire till the fat begins to 
 flow, before the batter is put in, and stir it 
 round in the basin that no sediment may re- 
 main. See that it cooks evenly and that the 
 edges are not burned, and when done sufficiently 
 turn if liked. Some prefer it browned on one 
 side only. The usual thickness is about an inch 
 when well browned on both sides. Divide into 
 pieces sufficient for each person, and send it to 
 table quickly. It should be put into the drip- 
 ping just in time to get it done with the meat. 
 Time, one and a half to two hours. 
 BEER, HOW TO TREAT " FOXED." 
 
 " Foxed " beer has a rank unpleasant taste, 
 and may be known by the white specks floating 
 on its surface. To remedy this, infuse a hand- 
 ful of hops and a little salt of tartar in a pint of 
 boiling water, and, when cold, strain and pour 
 into the cask, closing the bunghole at once. 
 BEER SOUP (German method). 
 
 Simmer two quarts of mild beer (it should not 
 be bitter) with the thin rind of a lemon, a few 
 cloves, and a stick of cinnamon, sweeten with 
 sugar, and add it through a sieve to the yolks 
 of six well-beaten eggs and half a pint of 
 cream. Whilst pouring into the tureen, stir 
 it to a froth with a wire whisk. The beer should 
 be very hot, without boiling, before it is stirred 
 with the eggs. Serve hot with toast. Time, 
 about half an hour to simmer. Probable cost, 
 9d. per quart. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. 
 
 BEER, TO REMOVE ACIDITY FROM. 
 
 Add one pint of ground malt to about eighteen 
 gallons of beer; it should be enclosed in a bag 
 and hung, not thrown to lie at the bottom; or, 
 mix with a quart of brandy as much wheat or 
 bean flour as will form a dough. Long pieces 
 of thia dough, put into the bunghole, will sink 
 gently to the bottom and keep the beer mellow 
 as well as improve its quality. Carbonate of 
 soda will remove sourness from beer, but care 
 should be taken not to add too much, or it will 
 have a dead, insipid flavour. 
 BEkiTROOT, BOILED. 
 
 This root is excellent as a salad, and as a gar- 
 nish for other salads it is very important on 
 account of its beautiful bright colour. In 
 cleansing it before boiling, take care not to 
 break the skin, or it will lose its colour and be- 
 come sickly looking. Remove it from the sauce- 
 pan carefully, peefand trim nicely. Serve, cut 
 in slices, with melted butter in a tureen, or if 
 not over large it may be sent to table whole. A 
 large one will take from two to three hours to 
 boil. Probable cost, from Id. to 2d. each. 
 BEETROOT, BUTTERED. 
 
 Boil the ijeetroot in the ordinary way, then 
 peel and cut it into thick round slices, sprinkle 
 a little pepper and salt, some warmed butter, 
 and a little minced parsley over. Serve as hot 
 aa possible. Probable cost. Id. to 2d. each. 
 BEETROOT CUSTARD. 
 
 Boil two beetroots and cjit them into thin 
 slices. Slice two large onions, and fry them 
 
BEE 
 
 65 
 
 BER 
 
 white in two ounces of butter. Stir a tabe- 
 spoonful of flour into a half pint of milk, and 
 add two table-spoonfuls of sugar, with salt, 
 pepper, and two table-spoonfuls of vinegar. 
 Boil for five minutes, stirring all the time. Add 
 the slices of beetroot, and stew for half an hour. 
 Serve with a border of mashed potatoes orna- 
 mented with pieces of parsley. Probable cost. Is. 
 BEETROOT, PICKLED. 
 
 Boil half an ounce of peppercorns, cloves, 
 mace, and ginger, in a pint of vinegar, add 
 another pint when cold. Take six beetroots, 
 after they have been well cleansed, and boil 
 them gently for two hours. When cold, peel, 
 slice, and put into a jar with the cold vinegar 
 and spice. It is fit for use at once. Probable 
 cost, 2s. 2d. 
 BEETROOT PRESERVE. 
 
 Put into a preserving pan half a dozen nicely- 
 peeled beetroots and a pint and a half of cold 
 water, first cutting away the long tapering part, 
 that they may lie better in the pan; let them 
 come to a boil, and then simmer and skim for 
 twenty minutes; add the following ingredients 
 and boil faster for an hour more : — Four pounds 
 of good loaf sugar, well broken, the juice of 
 half a, dozen lemons (strained), and the peel of 
 four cut very small, some vanilla and cinna- 
 mon (about half a finger's length of each), and 
 three or four cloves. When boiling, skim well, 
 and when quite tender put the beetroots into a 
 jar, but leave the syrup to boil until it is thick, 
 when it may be strained over them. When a 
 beautiful colour is wanted for creams, jellies, 
 etc., this preserve and syrup will be found valu- 
 able. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. 
 BEETROOT SALAD. 
 
 To some nicely-boiled and well-sliced beetroot, 
 lay alternate rows of fresh onion also sliced, and 
 pour over them any salad sauce, or simple oil 
 and vinegar, if preferred. Garnish with curled 
 parsley. Probable cost of beetroot. Id. to 2d. 
 Instead of the raw onions, cold boiled ones may 
 be used, together with slices of egg, hard boiled. 
 BEETROOT SOUP. 
 
 Cleanse carefully, boil, and peel two fine beet- 
 roots ; boil also two onions and mince them 
 together with the beetroot very finely. Take 
 three or four table-spoonfuls of vinegar and one 
 of brown sugar, with rather more than half a 
 gallon of good gravy soup; add this to the 
 mixture of beetroot and onion, and put it into a 
 saucepan to boil, when some small pieces of 
 cold veal or other meat, well covered with flour, 
 may be boiled and served up in it. Probable 
 cost, without gravy, 6d. Time to boil with the 
 soup, until the onions are tender. 
 
 BEETROOT, STEWED. 
 
 Wash and boil, till tender, a medium-sized 
 beetroot. Remove the skin, and cut it into thin 
 slices. Roll half an ounce of butter in flour, 
 and melt it in rather more than half a pint of 
 water, adding a table-spoonful of vinegar, and 
 salt and pepper to taste. Put the slices of beet 
 into the liquid, cover the saucepan closely, and 
 allow all to stew for an hour and ten minutes. 
 Care must be taken not to cut the beetroot be- 
 fore boiling, as the colour will be destroyed by 
 80 doing. Serve the stew with a garnish of 
 boiled button onions. 
 
 BEIGNETS. 
 
 Dissolve one ounce of butter in half a gill of 
 water, add one ounce and a half of flour, and 
 mix well together over the fire ; remove it, and 
 mix in, one after the other, three beaten eggs, a 
 pinch of salt, and three ounces of powdered 
 white sugar. Have ready a stewpan contain- 
 ing clarified fat or hot lard. Make the batter 
 into small lumps the size of cobnuts, and let 
 them fry a nice brown. They take from ten to 
 fifteen minutes to fry, and expand to six times 
 the size. Sift some powdered sugar over them, 
 and serve. Probable cost, 8d. 
 BEIGNET OF STRAWBERRIES. 
 
 Prepare a batter as in the previous recipe. 
 Put the strawberries raw into this batter, and 
 fry them a spoonful at a time. Dish them in a 
 pyramid, and sift sugar between them and over 
 them. Raspberries and other fruit may be done 
 in the same way. 
 BENTINCK CUTLETS. 
 
 Melt one ounce of butter, stir in one ounce of 
 flour, and a tea-spoonful of curry powder. When 
 quite smooth add half a pint of stock; season 
 with pepper and salt. When the flour is en- 
 tirely cooked and the sauce quite smooth, take 
 it off the fire, stir in eight ounces of cold 
 minced meat and four ounces of bread-crumbs; 
 let it simmer for ten minutes. Add a table- 
 spoonful of ketchup, and one beaten egg; mix 
 thoroughly. Turn on a dish to get cold; form 
 it into the shape of cutlets. Insert a small 
 piece of macaroni for the bone. Brush over with 
 egg and bread-crumbs. Fry a golden brown. 
 Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 BERMUDA PUDDING. 
 
 Put a, pint and a half of fresh juicy fruit — 
 raspberries, strawberries, or red currants — into 
 a jar with some sugar, and two table-spoonfuls 
 of water. Cover the jar, set it in a cool oven, 
 and let it remain until the juice flows freely, 
 when it may be strained off. For a pint of 
 juice put three table-spoonfuls of Bermuda 
 arrowroot into a cup and mix it to a smooth 
 paste with a tea-cupful of cold water, or fruit 
 juice if it is to be had. Pour the boiling fruit 
 upon it, stir it well, then put the mixture back 
 into the saucepan, and stir again until it is 
 quite thick. Take it off the flre and add cochin- , 
 eal to improve the colour. Pour the prepara- 
 tion into a damp mould, and leave it until the 
 next day. Turn it out on a glass dish and 
 serve with milk or cream. 
 BERMUDA WITCHES. 
 
 Spread strawberry, raspberry, apple jelly, or 
 preserve of any kind without stones, over slices 
 of Savoy or rice cake, which must be cut exceed- 
 ingly thin and even. Spread unsparingly over 
 the jprgserve finely-grated cocoa-nut; cover over 
 "with a 'similar slice of cake, and after pressing 
 all together, cut them into any form desired. 
 The square form is generally thought most suit- 
 able, and each slice of cake may be divided into 
 the size desired before the preserve is put on, 
 but they will always require some trimming. 
 Send them to table arranged prettily on a nap- 
 kin, and garnished with myrtle sprigs. 
 
 BERNESE PUDDING. 
 
 Beat up the yolks and whites of two eggs with 
 a quarter of a pint of milk, and add two ounces 
 
BEV 
 
 66 
 
 BiS 
 
 of very fine bread-crumbs and the same quantity 
 of flour; take a quarter of a pound of suet, 
 finely shredded, the same of mixed candied peel, 
 chopped, the rind and juice of a lemon, the 
 quarter of a small nutmeg grated, and equal 
 quantities of sugar and currants. Mix these 
 ingredients for ten minutes, and put them aside 
 for an hour. Stir all round, pour into a but- 
 tered pudding-dish, and lay a floured cloth over 
 the top. Place it in boiling water and boil for 
 three hours and a half. Serve with sugar over 
 the top. Probable cost, Is. 3d. Sufficient for 
 three or four persons. 
 
 BEVERAGES, REFRESHING SUMMER. 
 
 Peel, core, and quarter some apples, and boil 
 them in water until they can be mashed through 
 a colander; one pound of apples to a gallon of 
 water will be an economical and pleasant drink, 
 and when boiled up again, with the addition of 
 half a pound of brown sugar, and well skimmed, 
 may be bottled for use. The bottles should not 
 be corked tight. A piece of bread very much 
 toasted, and added to the above, is recommended 
 for invalids. For a spring drink, having very 
 cooling properties, rhubarb should be boiled as 
 above, adding a little more sugar ; or, one gallon 
 of cold water added to three lemons, sliced and 
 bruised, with half a pound of sugar. For a sum- 
 mer beverage, a mixture of red currants and 
 raspberries bruised, with half a pound of sugar 
 and well stirred into a gallon of water, will be 
 found excellent to allay thirst. To render 
 them more cooling, a little cream of tartar or 
 citric acid may be added. 
 
 BIFFINS. 
 
 These apples are prepared by exposure to a 
 very gentle heat, and the process is long. They 
 require to be put into a cool oven many times, 
 perhaps seven or eight, and to be pressed after 
 each baking. It the oven be too hot at first, 
 the biffins will waste, and the pressing must be 
 slowly and gently done. The Red Biffin or Min- 
 shul Crab are the sorts selected for drying. They 
 should be stewed either in milk or wine. 
 
 BIGARADE SAUCE. 
 
 Take the peel of half a Seville bitter orange, 
 and cut it into strips, put them in a stewpan, 
 with sufficient water to cover, boil for ten 
 minutes, and drain on a sieve. Put in a stew- 
 pan halt a pint of Espagnole sauce, half a pint 
 of rich stock or roast-meat gravy, and half the 
 iuice of the orange. Allow all to reduce to half 
 its quantity, strain, and add the orange peel, a 
 tea-spoonful of lemon juice, and a glass of port 
 wine, season with pepper and salt, boil up again, 
 and serve with roast wild duck or other game. 
 Probable cost, lOd. 
 
 BIRTHDAY SYLLABUB. 
 
 Take of port and sherry each a pint, mix them 
 with half a pint of brandy and nutmeg grated ; 
 squeeze and strain the juice of two lemons into 
 a large bowl and over half a pound of loaf sugar 
 well broken into small pieces ; stir the wine 
 mixture into the bowl with the lemon-juice and 
 sugar, and add new milk to it, or, if possible, 
 milk the cow into it. This quantity of wine, 
 etc., is sufficient for two quarts of milk. Prob- 
 able cost, about Is. 3d., without the wine and 
 brandy. 
 
 BISCUIT POWDER. 
 
 Biscuits may be reduced to a fine powder, by 
 first drying them in a cool oven, and then rolling 
 them with a common rolling-pin on a clean 
 board. TTiis kind of powdered biscuit is much 
 used for infants' food. It should be passed 
 through a sieve after rolling, and will then be 
 fine enough for any purpose. Keep dry in a tin 
 with a tight cover. 
 
 BISCUITS. 
 
 Recipes for preparing many varieties of bis- 
 cuits will be found under their respective head- 
 ings, for which see classified index at end of 
 work. 
 
 BISCUITS, HARD. 
 
 Warm half a pound of butter in as much 
 skimmed milk as will make four pounds of flour 
 into a very stiff paste. Beat it with a rolling- 
 pin, and work it until it becomes perfectly 
 smooth. Roll it very thin, and cut into biscuits 
 with a tin shape or a large cup. Prick them 
 freely with a fork, and bake for six or eight 
 minutes in a moderate oven. 
 
 BISCUITS, PLAIN. 
 
 Make one pound of flour into a stiff paste with 
 the yolk of an egg well beaten in a little milk. 
 Too much milk will make the biscuits thin and 
 heavy. Beat the paste and knead till smooth. 
 Roll out thin, and with a round tin-cutter form 
 into biscuits. Bake in a slow oven. Time, 
 twelve to eighteen minutes. Probable cost, 4d. 
 per pound. 
 
 BISHOP. 
 
 Stick an orange full of cloves, and roast it 
 before the fire, or put it into a hot oven. When 
 of a brown colour cut it into quarters and take 
 out the pips ; then put it into a stewpan, and 
 pour over it a bottle of port wine. Add sugar 
 to taste, and let it simmer for a quarter of an 
 hour, then strain and serve. 
 
 BISHOP OXFORD NIGHTCAP. 
 
 Take one-eighth of an ounce each of cloves, 
 mace, ginger, cinnamon, and allspice, boil them 
 for thirty minutes in half a pint of water, and 
 strain. Put part of a bottle of port in a sauce- 
 pan over the fire, add the spiced infusion and a 
 roasted lemon stuck with six cloves. Take four 
 ounces of sugar in lumps and grate the outer 
 rind of a small lemon, place them in a punch- 
 bowl, and add the juice of the lemon, pour in 
 the hot wine, etc., then the remainder of the 
 bottle of port, and serve. A Seville orange may 
 be roasted instead of a lemon. 
 
 BITTERS (Appetiser). 
 
 Take one ounce of Seville orange peel, half an 
 ounce of gentian root, and a quarter of an ounce 
 of cardamoms husked. Crush the cardamoms 
 with the gentian root. Put them in a wide- 
 mouthed bottle, and cover with brandy or 
 whisky. Let the mixture remain twelve days, 
 then strain, add one ounce of lavender drops, 
 and bottle off for use. 
 
 BISQUE DE HOMARD (Lobster Soup). 
 
 Bisques are highly flavoured soups prepared 
 from lobster, prawns, shrimps, crabs, or cray- 
 fish. The most favoured is bisqu% de homard, 
 prepared as follows : — Pound the shell of a 
 
BLA 
 
 67 
 
 BLA 
 
 lobster (well cleaned) with a quarter of a pound 
 of butter until quite fine. Put this in a stewpan 
 to dissolve, with a quart of fish stock, a carrot, 
 a turnip, an onion, and a bunch of herbs. Boil 
 for half an hour and take out the vegetables. 
 Pound the meat, add it to the stock, and cook 
 for a few minutes, then rub all through a sieve. 
 Pass it through again, adding a little cream. 
 Serve very hot. Price, according to size of lob- 
 ster and season of year. 
 
 BLACKBERRY AND APPLE FOOL. 
 
 Put into a saucepan one pound of blackberries, 
 one pound of apples, the juice and rind of a 
 lemon, and half a pound of loaf sugar. Stew 
 till the fruit is soft, then rub through a sieve, 
 and add half a pint of good custard, mix to- 
 gether, fill some custard cups, and put little 
 heaps of whipped cream on top. Probable cost. 
 Is. 6d. ^ , 
 
 BLACKBERRY AND APPLE JAM. 
 
 Take equal quantities of freshly gathered dry 
 blackberries and green English apples. Take 
 the stalks off the blackberries, and peel, core, 
 and slice the apples. Allow three-quarters of a 
 pound of loaf sugar to each pound of fruit. 
 Place the sugar in a clean preserving-pan with a 
 cupful of water, put over the fire, and when the 
 sugar has dissolved add the fruit. Stir con- 
 stantly until it boils, skim carefully, and let 
 it boil for fully three quarters of an hour. Pour 
 into jars, cover, and store in a dry, airy place. 
 A little lemon juice may be added if desired. 
 
 BLACKBERRY JAM. 
 
 Proceed as above, leaving out the apples, and 
 allow only half a pound of sugar for each pound 
 of fruit. 
 
 BLACKBERRY JELLY. 
 
 Put the berries in a jar and cover it ; set it in 
 a pan of water over the fire, and simmer about 
 an hour that the juice may run slowly; pour 
 through a jelly bag, putting a little at a time 
 into the bag. Then measure the juice, and 
 allow one pound of sugar to each pint. Boil 
 the juice fast in a brass or enamelled saucepan 
 for twenty minutes, then add the sugar, and 
 stir till it is all dissolved. Skim, and simmer 
 for about ten minutes. Pour into jars, which 
 should previously be made quite hot. When 
 quite firm, cover, and store in a dry cool place. 
 
 BLACKBERRY SYRUP. 
 
 Press out the juice from very ripe black- 
 berries, and to each pint add one pound of 
 brown sugar boiled in a pint of water to a rich 
 syrup; allow it to boil for fifteen or twenty 
 minutes, stirring it well ; put a wine-glassful of 
 brandy to each quart. When quite cold bottle 
 tor use. Probable cost, without brandy. Is. 6d. 
 per quart. 
 BLACKBERRY WINE. 
 
 Put any quantity of blackberries into a jar or 
 pan, cover them with boiling water, and allow 
 them to stand in a cool oven all night to draw 
 out the juice ; or they may be mashed with the 
 hand. Strain through a sieve into a jar or cask, 
 and let it ferment for fifteen days. Then add 
 one pound of sugar to every gallon of juice, 
 with a quarter of a pint of gin or brandy. The 
 berries should be gathered ripe and on a fine dry 
 
 day. Probable cost of blackberries, from 8d. to 
 Is. per gallon. 
 
 BLACK CAP PUDDING. 
 
 Make a good batter pudding. Pick and wash 
 a quarter of a pound of currants, lay them at 
 the bottom of a mould previously well buttered ; 
 pour the batter in over them and boil two hours. 
 When turned 'out the currants wiU be on the 
 top ; this forms the black cap. Probable cost of 
 the paste per pint, 7d. 
 
 BLACK CAPS. 
 
 {See Apple Bi.ace Caps). 
 BLACKCOCK, ROASTED. 
 
 This bird is hard, dry, and flavourless, if not 
 well hung ; but the flavour is remarkably -fine 
 when it has been kept until it shows some little 
 symptom of having been hung enough. Pick 
 and draw, but do not wash the inside ; a dry 
 cloth will be all that is necessary. Truss it 
 like a fowl. Some like the head under the wing, 
 but the former mode is most general. Place it 
 before a brisk fire, and baste unsparingly with 
 butter till done. . It will take nearly one hour 
 if a fine male bird, but three-quarters of an 
 hour will be enough for one of moderate size. 
 Dip a piece of thick toast into a little lemon- 
 juice, and lay it in the dripping-pan under the 
 bird ten minutes before it is to be taken from 
 the fire. Serve with the toast under, alid a rich 
 brown gravy and bread sauce. Probable cost, 
 5s. 6d. to 6s. per brace. 
 
 BLACKCOCK, SALMI OF. 
 
 Cut up a blackcock into nice, pieces. Melt 
 two ounces of butter in a small stewpan, put in 
 the pieces of' blackcock and let them cook for 
 four or five minutes till they are browned.. Drain 
 off the butter, pour in a quarter of a pint of 
 brown stock and a qiiarter of a piiit of port 
 wine, and stew the bird gently for an hour. 
 Lift out the pieces and keep them hot. Mix half 
 a tea-spoonful of arrowroot smoothly with a 
 dessert-spoonful of cold water, then stir it- into 
 the sauce ; simmer for two or three minutes until 
 it thickens, add the juice of half a lemon, halt 
 a tea-spoonful of salt, and a pinch of cayenne 
 pepper ; strain the sauce over the blackcock, 
 and serve immediately. The remains of cooked 
 birds may be used as above, but they should be 
 stewed only half an hour. Probable cost, 4s. 
 
 BLACKCOCK, STEWED. 
 
 Joint the blackcock in the same way as an 
 ordinary fowl, and fry in plenty of butter until 
 nicely browned, with a clove of garlic, which 
 should be removed before the stewing is com- 
 menced. Put a small wine-glassful of stock and 
 two of port wine, and a seasoning of salt and 
 pepper into the frying-pan with the butter, make 
 a nice gravy, then put the blackcock into a stew- 
 pan, throw the gravy over, and simmer very 
 gently about half an hour, or until tender. 
 Serve the meat high on the dish, and the gravy, 
 with sippets of toast around it. Old birds are 
 best done in this way; they require more time. 
 Probable cost, 5s. to 6s. per brace. 
 
 BLACK CURRANT CHEESE. 
 
 Gather the fruit on a dry day, and when the 
 sun is on it. See that it is quite ripe, and remove 
 the stalks and tops. Take equal quantities, by 
 
BLA 
 
 68 
 
 BLA 
 
 weight, of good loaf sugar — the best is the 
 cheapest— and of currants ; place them in a pre- 
 serving-pan over a slow fire, or by the side of 
 the fire, till the sugar has dissolved a little, then 
 bring it gradually to a boil, stirring it care- 
 fully all the time, and removing the scum, 
 ^immer for an hour or more, when the currants 
 may be passed through a hair sieve, and it is 
 ready for putting into moulds for use. Probable 
 cost, about Is. 3d. per pound. 
 
 BLACK CURRANT JAM. 
 
 The fruit should be gathered on a fine day, 
 and should be ripe, and well freed from the 
 stalks and tops. Put three quarters of a pound 
 of sugar to one pound of fruit. Place sugar and 
 fruit in a preserving-pan, and allow it to stand 
 near or by the side of the fire until the sugar 
 has dissolved, then stir it, and bring it to the 
 boil. It must be well skimmed, and will require 
 greater attention on Ihis head if brown sugar be 
 used instead of loaf. Simmer till it stiffens, 
 and put into pots for use. Probable cost, 8d. 
 per ordinary jam pot. {See also Cubeaht Jam, 
 Black.) 
 
 black currant jelly. 
 
 To every pint of juice obtained, after pressing 
 and straining, from well-ripened fruit, allow one 
 pound of loaf sugar. When the juice has come 
 to the boil, skim well and add the sugar; stir 
 the jelly steadily till all the sugar has disap- 
 peared, and boil, not simmer, for about eight or 
 nine minutes. If not thick enough, which may 
 be ascertained by dropping some on a cold plate, 
 boil a Uttle longer. Put into pots for use, and 
 when cold fasten down with paper made to 
 adhere to the pots with white of egg. Probable 
 cost, from 8d. to lOd. per half-pound pot. (See 
 also CuEBANT Jelly, Black.) 
 
 BLACK CURRANT LOZENGES. 
 
 Mix two ounces of brown sugar with half a 
 pint of black currant juice. Put the liquid into 
 an enamelled saucepan, add a table-spoonful of 
 dissolved isinglasSi and let it simmer gently for 
 three-quarters of an hour. Pour it over small 
 plates in layers about the eighth of an inch in 
 thickness, and let these plates be kept in a 
 screen, a cool oven, or any warm place until 
 the mixture is dry and hard, then take it off, 
 keep it in a tin box with a sheet of paper be- 
 tween each layer, and stamp it into shapes as 
 required. These lozenges are very palatable 
 and excellent for coughs, colds, and sore throats. 
 Probable cost, 2d. per ounce. 
 
 BLACK CURRANT PUDDING. 
 
 Butter a basin and line it with pudding paste. 
 To a pint and a half of fruit mix six ounces of 
 sugar. The currants should be dry or they will 
 make too much juice. Mix the sugar well up 
 with the fruit before it is put into the basin; 
 boil one hour and a half. Or a pudding may be 
 baked in this way. Stew for about a quarter 
 of an hour, in as much milk as will cover it, a 
 tea-cupful of rice made sweet with two ounces 
 of sugar. Take care it does not burn, and when 
 done and nearly cool, stir in an ounce of butter 
 and three well-beaten eggs with three table- 
 spoonfuls of cream. Lay some currants, pre- 
 viously cooked, in a pie-dish, add sugar (they 
 require a good deal), and throw the iniy^^e over 
 
 them. Bake at once for half an hour; one hour 
 to cook the fruit will be sufiicient. May be used 
 hot or cold. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. 
 
 BLACK CURRANT PRESERVE. 
 
 Dry thoroughly, cut off the heads and stalks 
 and put the black currants into a preserving- 
 pan with some red currant juice (half a pint to a 
 pound of the black currants), and a pound and a , 
 half of good sifted loaf sugar. Make it boil up, 
 remove the scum, carefully scraping off the fruit 
 from the sides of the pan. Shake it, but do 
 not mash the currants. Allow it to boil from 
 ten to fifteen minutes. Put into jars, and when 
 cool cover closely. It is fit for tarts or excellent 
 with cream. Probable cost, 6d. to 8d. per half 
 pound pot. 
 
 BLACK CURRANT TART. 
 
 Put a pint and a half of black currants and 
 three ounces of brown sugar into a tart-dish, lay 
 a deep saucer in the bottom to hold the juice, or 
 it will run over and spoil the appearance of the 
 tart ; put a neat edging of paste round the dish, 
 and also cover it over the top. Ornament accord- 
 ing to taste, and bake in a brisk oven. When 
 sent to table, powdered white sugar should be 
 sprinkled thickly over the top. Time, three- 
 quarters of an hour to bake. Probable cost. Is. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 BLACK CURRANT WINE. 
 
 Put equal quantities of currant juice and 
 water into a cask with three pounds and a half of 
 sugar to two gallons of the mixture, and place 
 it in a warm spot. When it has fermented, take 
 off the refuse; keep the cask filled up with juice, 
 and add a quart of brandy to every six gallons 
 directly the fermentation ceases. The cask must 
 then be closed up for eight or nine months, when 
 it may be bottled off ; but it will not be fit for 
 use until it has been at least twelve months in 
 bottle. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. per gallon. 
 
 BLACK JACK, OR KITCHEN CARAMEL. 
 
 This indispensable browning is made thus. 
 Put into a nttle copper saucepan a pound of 
 lump sugar, wet it with two or three spoonfuls 
 of water, and put on a slow fire; skim, and let 
 it cook slowly for several hours until it has be- 
 come a dark brown col&ur, or else until the small 
 bubbles begin to change from red to blue ; wet 
 it again with a quart of water, let it cook thirty 
 minutes, let it cool, then bottle it. When 
 bottled, cut a small hole in the cork, to allow 
 the liquid to drop from it without uncorking, to 
 prevent too large a quantity falling into the 
 gravy at one time. 
 
 BLACK PUDDINGS (,k la Franpaise). 
 
 Mince four large onions very fine, and stew 
 them in lard with a tea-spoonful of minced 
 parsley, pepper, salt, and allspice to taste, and 
 a quarter of a pound of pork fat, cut into small 
 dice. Stir two pints of pig's blood, while- hot, 
 with a little vinegar, a ' table-spoonful to a 
 quart to prevent clotting, and mix it well with 
 the seasoning. Pill the skins and divide them 
 by strings into the length wished; they may be 
 stewed for twenty minutes, or merely thrown 
 into boiling water till firm. To try if they are 
 sufficiently done, a large needle is used : if only 
 
BLA 
 
 69 
 
 BLA 
 
 fat flows they may be hung up to dry; they 
 should then be rubbed over with butter, and 
 tied up in a muslin bag, to give them a glossy 
 appearance. When used they should be boiled 
 long enough to heat them through, or cut into 
 slices and fried. 
 
 BLACK PUDDINGS (English method). 
 
 Throw a little salt into a quart of warm hog's 
 blood, and stir until the blood is cold. Mix 
 with it a quart of whole groats which have been 
 soaked in cold water all night. Add the grated 
 crumb of a quartern loaf soaked in two quarts 
 of hot milk until the milk is absorbed. Prepare 
 a seasoning of chopped thyme, onion, penny- 
 royal, six pounded cloves, half a nutmeg grated, 
 and a quarter of an ounce each of pounded all- 
 spice and ginger. Stir this into the groats, 
 bread-crumbs, and blood, and add two pounds 
 of finely chopped beef suet and six well-beaten 
 eggs. Cut one pound of the inward fat of the 
 pig into very small dice. Having washed the 
 skins thoroughly tie them at one end and turn 
 them inside out. Only half fill them with the 
 mixture, to allow room for swelling, and put 
 in. the fat at regular intervals. Tie them in 
 equal lengths or rounds, fasten the ends 
 securely, put them into boiling water, and boil 
 very gently for an hour, taking care to prick 
 them to let out the air. When done, hang them 
 in a cool dry place. When wanted for use, boil 
 a few minutes, or toast in a Dutch oven. Cost, 
 about 4d. per pound. 
 
 BLACK PUDDINGS (Scotch method). 
 
 Take one quart of bullock's or sheep's blood, 
 and mix with it half a pound of oatmeal. Add 
 half a pound of finely minced suet, salt, a 
 table-spoonful of white pepper, a tea-spoonful 
 of blackpepper, and a tea-spoonful of powdered 
 mint. Warm half a pint of skimmed milk, add 
 and mix thoroughly; turn the sausage skins 
 inside out, and wash them well in warm water 
 and salt; then rinse them well in cold water, 
 and fill three parts full with the mixture. Tie 
 the two ends together; put them in hot water, 
 and boil slowly for twenty minutes. While they 
 are boiling, prick with a pin to let the air 
 escape. Lay them on a cloth to dry, and hang 
 up for use. To warm, lay them in boiling water 
 in a deep saucepan, and then toast before the 
 fire or on a gridiron. Probable cost, 4d. per 
 pound. 
 BLANCH, TO. 
 
 To blanch meat, or vegetables is to plunge 
 them into boiling water for a given length of 
 time, generally two or three minutes; then 
 throw them into a bowl of spring water and 
 leave them until cold. With meat this is done 
 for the purpose of giving firmness to the flesh, 
 and thus facilitating the operation of larding, 
 and also to preserve the whiteness of__certain 
 meats, such as rabbits or fowls. With vege- 
 tables it is done to keep them green; and to 
 take away their acrid flavour. Ox tongues, 
 palates, and almonds, fruit kernels, etc., are 
 said to be blanched when through the action of 
 hot water the skin can be easily peeled off; 
 calves' heads and feet are blanched to soften 
 them, and thus make them easier to trim and 
 prepare for cooking, and for this the cold water 
 is not required. 
 
 BLANCHE SAUCE. 
 
 Cook together one and a half ounces of flour 
 and two ounces of butter, without browning; 
 moisten with a pint of milk and half « pint of 
 white stock. Put in a small onion, a clove, 
 ten peppercorns, and a bay-leaf; stir until it 
 boils, and let it simmer for fifteen minutes. 
 Strain, and use as required. 
 BLANCMANGE. 
 
 Blanch ten (only) bitter and two ounces of 
 sweet almonds, and pound them to a paste, 
 adding by degrees a third of a pint of cold 
 water; let it stand till settled, and strain off 
 the liquid. Put into a pint of milk five ounces 
 of loaf sugar, two inches of stick vanilla, and 
 two of cinnamon, and pour it into an enamelled 
 saucepan. Boil slowly till the sugar is dis- 
 solved, then stir in one ounce of isinglass, and 
 strain all into a basin ; add the liquid from the 
 almonds, with a gill of cream. When cold, pour 
 the mixture into a mould and put it in a 
 cool place till it is firmly set. Probable cost, 
 about 2s. Sufficient to fill a quart mould. 
 BLANCMANGE (another way). 
 
 Dissolve in a saucepan, over a gentle fire, 
 two ounces of the best isinglass in two pints of 
 new milk. Add the rind of a lemon and a pint 
 of cream; boil for a quarter of an hour and 
 take out the rind. Sweeten, and flavour either 
 with cinnamon, rose or orange-flower water, or 
 vanilla. While cooling, stir in a little white 
 wine and brandy, pour into moulds, and allow 
 it to become firm in a cool place. 
 BLANCMANGE, AMERICAN. 
 
 Mix one ounce of arrowroot with a tea-cupful 
 of cold water, and let it stand some minutes, 
 until the arrowroot is settled. Pour off the 
 water, and substitute a little orange-flower or 
 laurel water. Boil with a pint of new milk, a 
 stick of cinnamon, the thinly-cut rind of a 
 lemon, or any seasoning that may be preferred. 
 Pour it when boiling upon the arrowroot, stir- 
 ring all the time. Put it into a mould, set 
 it in a cool place, and it will be ready for 
 use the following day. Time to boil, a few 
 minutes. Sufficient for a pint mould. Prob- 
 able cost, 6d. 
 BLANCMANGE, CORNFLOUR. 
 
 (See CoENrLOTiE Blancmange.) 
 BLANCMANGE, RICE. 
 
 Blanch almonds and pound to a paste, as 
 already directed for blancmange, using a little 
 more cold water. Boil three ounces of rice, 
 three ounces of loaf sugar, the rind of half a 
 lemon, a piece of cinnamon, and a stick of van- 
 illa, with a pint and a half of new milk. When 
 the. rice is boiled to a pulp, add the almond 
 paste and liquid, and simmer ten minutes. 
 Then put into it three-quarters of an ounce of 
 isinglass, and when dissolved, pass the whole 
 through a sieve into a mould, and stand in a 
 cold place till firmly set. Serve with a cream 
 over it. Probable cost. Is. 8d. 
 BLANCMANGE, WITH CHOCOLATE. 
 
 Dissolve an ounce of leaf gelatine in half a 
 pint of new milk. Add to it two and a half 
 ounces of vanilla chocolate grated, which has 
 been mixed to a smooth paste with a little cold 
 milk and four ounces of sifted sugar. Mix 
 
BLO 
 
 70 
 
 BOI 
 
 thoroughly, and place in a clean enamelled iron 
 saucepan ; stir till it reaches boiling point. 
 Add a pint of milk ; continue to stir over a 
 slow fire for twelve minutes. Then pour 
 into a, mould which has been rinsed out 
 with cold water, ard leave in a cool place till 
 set. Turn out carefully and serve. Probable 
 cost, lOd. 
 
 BLOATER FRITTERS, CURRIED. 
 
 Fillet the fish; cut them into small pieces, 
 season with pepper and curry powder. Dip each 
 piece into batter, fry in hot fat until crisp, drain 
 well on a cloth, dish up on a folded napkin, and 
 garnish with fried parsley. 
 BLOATER ROES. 
 
 Dust a little cayenne pepper over the roes, dip 
 them in rich batter, and fry until of a golden 
 brown ; garnish with watercress. The soft roes 
 only should be used. An excellent after-dinner 
 savoury. 
 
 BLOATERS. 
 
 Open the bloaters down the back, and bone 
 them. Lay the fish one on the other (insides 
 together), and broil over a clear fire. When 
 sent to table they are separated, laid on a hot 
 dish, and rubbed over with a little butter; or, 
 split up, take out the backbone, trim off the 
 head, tail, and fins, double the fish over, and 
 broil from five to six minutes over a clear fire. 
 
 BLOATERS, DEVILLED. 
 
 Pour boiling water over four large bloaters, 
 remove the skin, and split them down the back, 
 cut out the fillets, dry them, and broil over a 
 clear fire for three minutes. Sprinkle with 
 cayenne, lemon juice, and oiled butter mixed to- 
 gether, place on hot buttered toast, and grate a 
 little cheese over. Make very hot in the oven, 
 and serve. 
 
 BLOATERS ON TOAST. 
 
 Eemove the skin an^ bones from the bloaters, 
 cut the flesh into neat pieces, dip these in 
 melted butter, sprinkle with pepper and finely 
 minced parsley, and cook these in the oven for 
 about eight minutes, then place them on small 
 rounds of buttered toast, garnish with parsley, 
 and serve at once. 
 
 BLONDE FISH SAUCE. 
 
 Put three table-spoonfuls of white stock into a 
 stewpan, and stew the following ingredients for 
 half an hour over a slow fire : — ^An onion cut 
 small, two mushrooms, a sprig of parsley, a 
 lemon very thinly sliced, and a glass of white 
 wine. When nearly stewed, add by degrees a 
 cupful of melted butter and the yolks of three 
 eggs well beaten; keep stirring the pan over 
 the fire for four or five minutes, but do not allow 
 the contents to boil. Strain through a sieve, and 
 use it for any kind of fish. Probable cost, lOd. 
 BOAR'S HEAD, BOILED. 
 
 Remove the snout, hair, and bones, from a 
 boar's head; cleanse it thoroughly, scald and 
 put it into a pot containing boiling vinegar and 
 water ; add two ounces of salt, a few pepper- 
 corns, some parsley, thyme, shallot, and sage; 
 let it steep. for three days, with the tongue and 
 two pounds of the meat. When drained, fill up 
 the cavities made by the removal of bones, etc., 
 with thin slices of the meat and tongue rolled 
 
 together; fasten up the opening with strong 
 thread as soon as the head has been well filled 
 and the form is good. Put it, tied up in a 
 cloth, into a stewpan. with the herbs, etc., and 
 add a pint of wine, four cloves, a carrot, and 
 an ounce of salt; to simmer from six to seven 
 hours, when it may be taken out and allowed to 
 cool. When quite cold, remove the cloth, undo 
 the fastenings, ornament and glaze the head. 
 Replace the tusks, and insert eyes made of white 
 of egg and beetroot. Serve with a folded 
 napkin under. 
 
 BOAR'S HEAD SAUCE. 
 
 Take the rind of two oranges, and slice it. 
 Rub two or three lumps of sugar on two more 
 oranges, put the sugar into a basin with six or 
 seven table-spoonfuls of red currant jelly, a 
 little white pepper, one shallot, one spoonful 
 of mixed mustard, and enough port wine to 
 make the sauce as thick as good cream ; add the 
 orange-rind slices, which should be cut very 
 thin, and bottle for use. This sauce is useful 
 for nearly every kind of cold meat. Probable 
 cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 BOHEMIAN ICE CREAM. 
 
 The smaller varieties of ripe red fruit are used 
 to make this cream ; they are pulped through a 
 fine sieve, and to a pint of the juice thus pro- 
 cured is added an ounce and a half of the best 
 isinglass, dissolved in half a, pint of water. 
 Sweeten to taste, and squeeze in lemon-juice if 
 liked. Mix to this quantity a pint of sweet- 
 ened whipped cream, and mould for freezing. 
 These creams, where raspberries only are used, 
 may be put into glasses, and made without 
 isinglass — in the proportions of a pint of fruit 
 juice to a pint of whipped cream. Time to 
 freeze, about thirty minutes. 
 
 BOIL, TO. 
 
 Before boiling joints of meat, the cook should 
 think for a moment whether she desires the 
 juices to go into the water, as in soups and 
 gravies, or to be retained in the meat itself. 
 If they are to be retained, put the meat into 
 fast-boiling water, let it boil for about five 
 minutes, to make the outside hard, and thus 
 prevent the juice escaping. Remove the scum 
 carefully as it rises, or the appearance of the 
 meat will be spoilt. Draw the saucepan a 
 little to the side of the fire, throw a little cold 
 water into the liquor in order to reduce the 
 temperature considerably, and let it simmer 
 very gently until ready. Care must be taken 
 to remove the scum when the water is on the 
 point of boiling, or it will quickly sink, and 
 cannot afterwards be removed. If it is de- 
 sired to extract the juice from the meat, cover 
 it with cold vater, and simmer slowly as 
 before. The practice of boiling meat quickly 
 cannot be sufficiently deprecated. It only 
 renders it hard and tasteless. At the same time 
 the simmering should be continuous. Before 
 boiling, all joints should be delicately and 
 neatly trimmed, and firmly skewered. It is a 
 good plan to put a few pieces of wood under 
 the meat to prevent it adhering to the pan. 
 Salted meat requires longer boiling than fresh 
 meat. Dried and smoked meat should be 
 
BOL 
 
 71 
 
 BON 
 
 soaked for some hours before it is put into the 
 water. As a very large quantity of water takes 
 the goodness out of the meat, it is well to use 
 a saucepan sufficiently large to contain the 
 joint easily, and no more. Afterwards, if the 
 meat is entirely covered with water, this is all 
 that is required. The whiteness of meat or 
 poultry ib preserved by its being wrapped in a 
 well-floured cloth whilst in the pan, but great 
 care must be taken that this is perfectly sweet 
 and clean before using, or the flavour will be 
 spoilt. From a quarter of an hour to twenty 
 minutes should be allowed for each pound, 
 counting from the time the water boils. Pud- 
 dings should be plunged into plenty of boiling 
 water, and kept boiling quickly until done. 
 
 BOLOGNA CAKE. 
 
 Mix half a tea-spoonful of baking powder 
 with half a pound of fine white flour, and rub 
 in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. Add 
 six ounces of castor sugar, then the beaten 
 yolks of four eggs and the whipped whites 
 of two. Mix all well togeth^i?, and add two 
 ounces of candied peel shredded small, and 
 half a pound of currants. Stir well, and then 
 pour the mixture into a buttered mould and 
 bake in a brisk oven. 
 
 BOLOGNA SAUSAGE. 
 
 Take equal quantities of beef and pork, pound 
 it to a paste, and season it very highly with 
 pepper, salt, mace, cloves, and a little garlic. 
 When this mixture is put into the skins, add a 
 strip or two of fat bacon ; it may then be boiled 
 for one hour, or smoked for two or three months, 
 when it will be fit for use. The Italians eat it 
 in its uncooked state. Probable cost of meat, 
 lOd. to Is. per pound. 
 
 BOLOGNA SAUSAGE (another way). 
 
 Take a pound of lean beef or veal, a pound of 
 bacon, rather fat, a pound of beef suet, and a 
 pound of lean pork. Chop up very small all 
 together, with a handful of sage leaves and a 
 few sweet herbs; season to taste with salt and 
 pepper, and press into a large, clean sausage- 
 skin. Put the sausage into a saucepan of 
 boiling water, and prick it over to prevent 
 bursting. Boil for a,n hour. Probable cost, 
 lOd. to Is. per pound. 
 
 BOMBAY CREAMS, ICED. 
 
 Peel and mince an onion; fry in hot butter 
 and drain. Then add the pulp of a tomato, 
 a tea-spoonful of mulligatawny paste, and one 
 of Bombay chutney, a gill of white stock, a 
 pinch of cayenne, grated lemon and nutmeg. 
 Cook until all can be passed through a hair 
 sieve; then stir in seven yolks and the whites . 
 of two hard-boiled eggs, six ounces of white 
 meat, finely minced, and a little yellow colour- 
 ing. Lightly add a gill of stiffly whipped 
 cream. Pill some small paper cases, making 
 the mixture stand above the edges. Sprinkle 
 on top some shredded chillies anif chopped 
 pistachios and French gherkins; and then put 
 the cases in ice cave for half an hour. 
 
 BONBONS, CANDIED (,k la GoufTg). 
 
 Heat one pound Of sugar until it registers 
 forty degrees, then cool it down to thirty-eight 
 degrees, by the addition of some essence to 
 
 flavour : either aniseed cordial, kirschenwasser, 
 maraschino, or almond may be used. Let ic 
 cool, and beat it with a wooden spoon until it 
 forms a paste, when put it in a basin until 
 wanted. Next, get a wooden tray about one 
 foot square and two inches deep, fill it with dry 
 starch finely powdered, and stamp the starch 
 all over with an ornamental cutter, leaving 
 about half an inch between each interstice. 
 Melt part of the paste in a sugar boiler, rub the 
 spout with whiting, and fill the patterns in the 
 starch with the sugar ; let it dry for two hours ; 
 take them out, brush them to clear away the 
 loose starch, place them in a candy-pan, cover 
 them with some syrup at about thirty-six de- 
 grees of heat, and lay over the pan a sheet of 
 paper. Allow the bonbons to stay fifteen hours 
 in a drying closet, then break the top only of 
 the sugar, throw off the syrup, put the bonbons 
 on a wire strainer, and give them their finishing 
 touch by letting them again dry in the hot 
 closet. 
 
 BONBONS, LIQUEUR. 
 
 These articles of confectionery are prepared 
 by boiling white sugar with_ water into a thick 
 syrup, and then adding a little spirit and any 
 flavouring and colouring ingredients that may 
 be required. To make these, a tray is filled 
 with finely-powdered starch. On the surface of 
 this impressions are made of the shape and size 
 of the bonbons desired. These hollow spaces 
 are then filled with the syrup. More powdered 
 starch is next sprinkled over the tray, so as to 
 cover the syrup. The tray is then carefully 
 placed in a warm place for the sugar to crys- 
 tallise. The sugar in the syrup contained in 
 the mould soon begins to form an outside crust, 
 which gradually increases in thickness, while 
 the weak spirit, collecting together in the in- 
 terior, forms the liquid portion of the bonbon. 
 
 BOND STREET PUDDING. 
 
 Beat up two eggs thoroughly, and add a 
 tea-cupful of castor sugar; beat for five minutes, 
 and then add a table-spoonful of milk and a 
 small tea-cupful of sifted flour, stirring well 
 meanwhile. Half a tea-spoonful of baking 
 powder should be stirred into the flour before 
 being put in. Add a few drops of almond 
 essence, and beat for ten minutes. Grease 
 a mould and pour in the mixture, cover with 
 a buttered paper, end steam for an hour. Turn 
 out, sprinkle with castor sugar, and serve 
 with jam sauce. 
 
 BONE, TO. 
 
 The art of boning meat or poultry, though by 
 no means difficult for those who have been 
 taught it, cannot be acquired by verbal instruc- 
 tion only. It is necessary to take lessons from 
 someone Who understands it, and practice will 
 do the rest. It is exceedingly useful, most of 
 all because joints, etc., when boned, are so 
 much more easily carved than when served in 
 the usual way, and also on account of the 
 economy, as the bones taken may be stewed 
 down for gravy, for which fresh meat would 
 otherwise be needed. The only rules which 
 can be given are — to use a sharp-pointed knife, 
 to worjc with this close to the bone, and to take 
 care to keep the skin as whole as possible. 
 
BON 
 
 72 
 
 BOU 
 
 BONES, DEVILLED. 
 
 Make a. mixture of mustard, salt, cayenne 
 pepper, and a little mushroom ketchup; lay a 
 coating of butter over the bones, then the mix- 
 ture, and rub it well in, and broil rather brown 
 over a clear fire. 
 BORDELAISE SAUCE (4 la Gouffe). 
 
 Add to half a pint of Sauterne a table-spoonful 
 of shallots, blanched and chopped, and a very 
 small quantity of mignonette pepper. Reduce 
 it, by boiling, to a quarter of a pint, then add 
 a pint of Spanish sauce, and boil for five min- 
 utes, with the addition of a table-spoonful of 
 chopped parsley. 
 BORTSCH (Russian Soup). 
 
 Take a beetroot, a leek, a celery root, some 
 parsley, and an onion, and shred into pieces of 
 equal size ; add a little curled cabbage cut in the 
 same way, and fry the whole in a saucepan. 
 When done to a nice light colour stir in three 
 pints of ffood stock, and a, ladleful of beetroot 
 juice. Add a young duck which has been three 
 parts roasted beforehand, about two pounds of 
 slightly broiled breast of beef, and a bunch of 
 herbs composed of marjoram, two or three dry 
 mushrooms, a bay-leaf, and a clove. Boil 
 gently until the duck and the beef are quite 
 cooked, then take them out of the soup, cut up 
 the duck in the usual manner, and cut the beef 
 also into large dice. Then take out the herbs, 
 skim the soup and flavour it well. Add a mix- 
 ture composed of half a soup ladle of sour 
 cream, mixed with the juice of two red and well- 
 scraped beetroots and a good pinch of chopped 
 and slightly boiled fennel and parsley. Add the 
 pieces of duck and beef to the soup before 
 serving. Probable cost, 5s. 6d. 
 
 BOSTON BAKED BEANS. 
 
 (See Beans, Haeicot, Boston Baked). 
 
 BOSTON BUNS. 
 
 Take two table-spoonfuls each of flour, corn- 
 flour, sugar, and butter. Cream the butter and 
 sugar, sift in the flour, add two well-beaten 
 eggs, and stir to a fairly stiff paste. Drop on 
 a floured tin in bun shapes, and bake in a brisk 
 oven. When nearly done, scoop out a small 
 piece from each and insert a tea-spoonful of 
 raspberry jam. 
 
 BOSTON CREAM CAKES. 
 
 Put half a pint of water into a saucepan, add 
 four ounces of butter, and bring slowly to tne 
 boil; then stir in gradually half a pound of 
 
 liOSTON CKEAM CAKES. 
 
 flour, beating well. Let it boil a couple of 
 minutes, then turn out until cool, when the 
 yolks of six eggs should be beaten in, and 
 finally the whites, whisked to a stiff froth. This 
 must be dropped from a dessert-spoon upon 
 sheets of greased paner, laid upon a tin, and 
 placed in a hot o\ta. When baked, slit each 
 on one side with a sharp knife, and fill with 
 cornflour blancmange, made in the usual way, 
 but with extra sugar. A little vanilla flavour- 
 ing is a great improvement. 
 
 BOSTON CREAM CAKES (another way). 
 
 If to be eaten hot, the filling may be made 
 less sweet and a small spoonful of fruit jelly 
 or jam inserted. Do this by putting the above 
 filling on one side and the jam on the other, 
 and then pressing the cakes together. The jam 
 should be stiff, and made warm before using. 
 
 BOTTLE-JACK AND SCREEN. 
 
 The usual method employed for roasting meat 
 is to hang the bottle-jack on the movable bar 
 placed for its reception on the front of the 
 mantelshelf; to suspend the wheel from the jack 
 and to hang the meat by a hook from the 
 wheel. A screen, either entirely made of tin 
 or lined with it, is then put in front of the fire 
 to keep in the heat, and the jack is wound up 
 two or three times whilst a joint is being 
 roasted. By a modern improvement the bar 
 can be altogether dispensed with, and the jack 
 fastened above the screen, which is so made 
 that tho heat will be condensed as much as 
 possible. Those who do not wish to go to the 
 expense of a bottle- jack, but who appreciate the 
 difference between a roasted joint and a baked 
 one, may find an economical substitute for the 
 bottle-jack in the chimney screw-jack, which 
 may be fastened upon any mantelshelf when 
 wanted, and unscrewed when done with. It re- 
 quires a little more watching than the ordinary 
 bottle-jack, but if a key be hung upon the hook 
 with six or seven thicknesses of worsted wound 
 round it, one end of which is fastened to the 
 meat-hook, the twisting and untwisting of the 
 worsted cord will cause a rotatory motion like 
 that produced by a bottle- jack. 
 
 BOUILLABAISSE. 
 
 Take three or four pounds of fish : whiting, 
 sole, small haddock, red mullet, and a very 
 small conger eel or a portion of one. All these 
 are to be cleaned, cut in slices, and their bones 
 removed; two dozdn mussels are to be added. 
 Put into a stewpan two onions sliced, two 
 tomatoes peeled, a carrot sliced ; then, in a 
 coarse net bag, the following ; — two bay-leaves, 
 two slices of lemon, half the zest of a Seville 
 oran§;e, two cloves, a little thyme, several 
 sprigs of parsley, a clove of garlic, two red 
 capsicums cut, and a little saffron ; and salt and 
 pepper, and a little pimento. Place the pieces 
 of fish over these, pour in six table-spoonfuls of 
 olive oil; add three pints of water, with two or 
 three glasses of white French wine ; cover, and 
 let all boil well together for half an hour. The 
 whiting, however, should be put in only a 
 quarter of an hour before finishing. Serve the 
 whole in a soup tureen, with slices of toasted 
 bread apart, and place them in the tureen be- 
 fore filling. 
 
BOU 
 
 73 
 
 BRA 
 
 BOUILLON. 
 
 Take three pounds of leg of beef, cut into 
 several pieces, lay them in a flat stewpan, and 
 pour two quarts of cold water on them. Let 
 this heat slowly by the side of the fire, skim it 
 when it begins to boil, and let it simmer gently 
 for half an hour, skimming carefully from time 
 to time. Take two carrots, two turnips, one 
 onion, two leeks, and half a head of celery, 
 wash them well, slice them, and add them to 
 the meat, with half a tea-spoonful of savoury 
 herbs, one tea-spoonful of salt, and twelve pep- 
 percorns. Stew gently for another three and a 
 half hours. Strain into a large bowl, and set 
 aside to cool. When required for use, skim off 
 every particle of fat, and heat as much as may 
 be required. Probable coat. Is. 9d. 
 BOUQUET GARNL 
 
 Bouquet garni is the term applied to a bunch 
 of herbs much used in soups and sauces, and 
 wherever a savoury flavour is desired. It en- 
 ters largely into the composition of many 
 French dishes. To make a bouquet garni take 
 a few branches of fresh parsley well washed, 
 place upon this a sprig of thyme, a sprig of 
 marjoram, a bay-leaf, a sprig of basil, a celery- 
 leaf, a small piece of cinnamon stick, a clove of 
 garlic, a small blade of mace, and a pepper 
 pod. Fold the parsley round the other herbs, 
 etc., and tie with string into a neat bundle, and 
 use as directed in the various recipes. 
 
 BRAIN CAKES. 
 
 Soak and pick the brains, boil for a quarter 
 of an hour, and blanch them. Pound them to 
 a paste with a tea-spoonful of chopped sage, a 
 quarter of a tea-spoonful of mace and cayenne, 
 salt, pepper, and two well-beaten eggs. Make 
 the paste into balls about the size of a florin ; 
 when flattened, dip them into egg and fine 
 bread-crumb, and fry brown. They are appro- 
 priate as a garnish for " calf's head d la tortue." 
 
 BRAINS, BULLOCK'S. 
 
 (See Bullock's Bbains.) 
 BRAINS, CALF'S. 
 
 (See Cain's Bbains.) 
 BRAINS, OX. 
 
 (See Ox Bbains.) 
 BRAINS, SHEEP'S, FRICASSEED. 
 
 Boil two sets of sheep's brains in slightly 
 salted water for ten minutes ; when cold slice 
 each piece, sprinkle with chopped ham and 
 parsley, and dredge with flour; season with 
 pepper and salt, and dip in beaten egg; cover 
 over with fine crumbs, and fry in boiling fat 
 for eight minutes; then lay the brains on thin 
 slices of fried bread, and garnish with fried 
 bacon. 
 BRAISE, TO. 
 
 To braise meat is to cook it in a braisiere, or 
 closed stewpan, so formed that live embers can 
 be held in the cover, and the heat necessary for 
 cooking communicated from above as well as 
 below. As there is no evaporation the meat 
 imbibes the flavour of the vegetables, etc., with 
 which it is cooked, and care should be taken 
 that these are in accordance with the nature 
 of the meat and added in proper quantities. 
 Before putting the meat into the pan, either 
 
 lard it or cover it with thick slices of fat bacon. 
 When sufficiently cooked, take it out and keep 
 it hot, strain the gravy and free it entirely from 
 fat (this is most effectually done by plunging 
 the basin which contains it into cold water, and 
 
 BRAWN (see p. 74). 
 
 thus causing the fat to settle on the top), boil 
 it quickly until very thick, and serve it in the 
 dish with the meat, or boil it longer until it is 
 thick enough to adhere to it. As braisieres are 
 not very usual in ordinary kitchens, the term is 
 now applied generally to meat cooked in a 
 closely covered stewpan or earthenware pot, so 
 that the meat retains not only its own juices, 
 but also those of the articles used for flavouring- 
 
 BRAN YEAST. 
 
 A good serviceable yeast can be made from a 
 pint of bran boiled i^;i two quarts of water for 
 ten minutes, with a handful of good hops. 
 Strain the liquor, and when lukewarm, add 
 three or four table-spoonfuls of beer yeast, and 
 two of brown sugar or treacle; put it into a jar 
 or small wooden cask, and place it before the 
 fire to ferment; when well worked it may be 
 bottled, tightly corked, and kept in a cool place. 
 
 BRANDY, LEMON. 
 
 Take the thin or yellow rinds only of tw» 
 small lemons, and cover them with half a pint 
 of the best French brandy; let them stand m a 
 closed-up bottle for a fortnight, then strain off 
 the spirit and keep it corked closely for use. A 
 syrup of two ounces of loaf sugar, and ii. 
 quarter of a pint of water may be added if a 
 sweet brandy lemon is desired. Probable cost, 
 2s. 3d. 
 
 BRANDY MINCE FOR PIES. 
 
 Take one pound each of fresh beef suet, sugar, 
 currants, and apples; wash, pick, and dry the 
 currants, and mince the suet and apples with a 
 quarter of a pound of citron, and the same of 
 orange-peel, the juice of one lemon and the 
 grated peel of two. When all these ingredients 
 are well mixed, throw over them, by degrees, a 
 glass of brandy. 
 
 BRANDY, RASPBERRY. 
 
 Take four pounds of raspberries and steep 
 them in three quarts of brandy for one month; 
 add syrup to taste, and flavour with cinnamon 
 and clove mixture. Some persons prefer it 
 without any flavouring ingredients, but it is 
 always better to have a little added. 
 
 BRANDY SNAPS. 
 
 Mix together half a pound of flour, three- 
 quarters of a pound of moist sugar, two ounces 
 of butter, and half a pound of treacle. Eoll 
 
BRA 
 
 74 
 
 BRE 
 
 out on a floured slab to the thicknesB of a 
 sldUing ; cut them into shapes about five or six 
 inches in diameter; put them into slightly 
 greased tins, and bake in a moderate oven for 
 ten minutes. 
 
 BRAWN. 
 
 Prepare a hog's head by cutting off the ears, 
 taking out the brains, and cleaning generally ; 
 rub in plenty of salt, and let it drain a whole 
 day and night. Rub in two ounces of salt- 
 petre and the same quantity of salt, and let it 
 stand for three days. Next, put the head and 
 salt into a pan and cover it with water for two 
 days. Now wash it well from the salt, and 
 boil till the bones can be easily removed. Ex- 
 tract these and take off the skin of she head 
 and tongue carefully. Chop up the meat into 
 bits, but do not mince it, and season with pep- 
 per, salt, and shallot to taste. Place the skin 
 of one-half of the head into a pan, closely fitting 
 it, and press into it the chopped head and 
 tongue. When this is done, take the other skin 
 and lay it cleverly in place, or put the other 
 skin in the pan and proceed as before, and turn 
 out when cold. Should the head be too fat, add 
 some lean pork. For a sauce, boil a pint of 
 vinegar with a quart of the liquor in which the 
 head was boiled, and two ounces of salt, and 
 pour over the brawn when the liquor is cold. 
 The hair should be carefully removed from the 
 ears, and they must be boiled till tender, then 
 divided into long narrow pieces and mixed with 
 the meat. Time to boil, from two to three 
 hours. Probable cost of a pig's head, 5d. per 
 pound. 
 BRAWN (another way). 
 
 Take the fat, ears, and tongue of a pig's 
 head, and any pieces which may have been cut 
 off in trimming, and soak in salt and water all 
 night. Cleanse, and boil them for three hours, 
 -with only enough water to keep them from 
 burning, and the meat from getting dry. The 
 tones should then be taken out, the ears cut 
 into strips, and the tongue into slices. Put the 
 bones into the saucepan with the liquor, a 
 large onion, two blades of mace, six allspice, 
 twenty-five peppercorns, two bay-leaves, and 
 a little thyme. Boil for half an hour, strain 
 the liquor, put it with the meat, boil once more, 
 and pour into a brawn mould. When required 
 the brawn may be separated from the moulds 
 by dipping them into hot water, or by placing 
 a hot towel around them for a few minutes. 
 BRAWN OF OX HEAD. 
 
 Put a half ox head, two onions, carrots, tur- 
 nips, and a little celery seed into a pan, with 
 sufficient water to cover; let it simmer until 
 quite tender. Take all the meat from the 
 cheek, season with pepper and salt, and cut 
 into small neat pieces. Fill a brawn mould or 
 cake tin, add the brains and a good sprinkling 
 of minced ham or bacon, and more seasoning. 
 When the mould is full add about a tea-cupful 
 of the stock in which it was boiled ; put a plate 
 over with a weight on top, and turn out when 
 <^uite cold. Garnish with watercress. The 
 liquor makes excellent soup. Probable cost, 8d. 
 per pound. 
 BRAWN OF SHEEP'S HEAD. 
 
 Boil a sheep's head with a little salt and an 
 
 onion until quite tender. Then take all the 
 meat off the bones and cut it into neat pieces, 
 keeping . the tongue whole. Slice three hard- 
 boiled eggs and place them at the bottom of a 
 wetted mould; put the pieces of meat in with 
 the tongue in the centre, add a liberal quantity 
 of black pepper, a few crushed peppercorns, 
 some salt, a little chopped parsley, and a few 
 small pieces of bacon. Pour about half a tea- 
 cupful of stock over, and when cold turn out, 
 and garnish with parsley. Probable cost, 6d. 
 per pound. 
 BRAWN SAUCE. 
 
 Mix nicely together two tea-spoonfuls of 
 moist sugar, one of mustard, and one of the 
 best Lucca oil. When quite smooth, add some 
 vinegar and oil in equal proportions, though 
 many prefer more of the one than of the other. 
 Care must be taken to make the sauce quite 
 smooth, and of a nice rich golden colour. ^ 
 BRAWN, SUSSEX. 
 
 Prepare a pig's head as directed in the recipe 
 for Bbawn. Strew the halves with salt, and 
 drain them. Take the pig's feet, cleanse them 
 and the ears also. Rub in one ounce and a half 
 of saltpetre with six ounces of sugar, and 
 shortly after six ounces of salt. Next day, pour 
 a quarter of a pint of vinegar over all, and turn 
 the meat in the pickle every twenty-four hours 
 for a week; wash off the pickle and boil till all 
 the bones can be easily removed, but the form 
 of the head must be retained. Flatten the head 
 on a board, cut some of the meat from the thick- 
 est part, and place it on the thinnest, to give 
 an even appearance. Season all thoroughly 
 with nutmeg, mace, cayenne, cloves, etc. In- 
 termix the head with pieces of the ears, feet, 
 and tongue; roll it up tightly and bind firmly, 
 tying a thin cloth closely round, and securely 
 fastening it at both ends. Now place the head 
 in a braising or other suitable pan, with the 
 bones and trimmings of the feet and ears, ;i 
 large bunch of savoury herbs, two onions, a, 
 small head of celery, some carrots, a tea-spoon- 
 ful of black peppercorns, and sufficient cold ■ 
 water to cover all well. Boil for four hours, 
 and allow it to remain in the liquor till nearly 
 cold. Take off the cloth and put the brawn 
 between two dishes, and press with a heavy 
 weight till next day. Before serving take oft 
 the bands. Average cost of pig's head, 5d. per 
 pound. 
 BREAD AND BUTTER FRITTERS. 
 
 Make a batter with cream instead of milk. 
 Cut some slices of bread and butter rather 
 thin, spread half of them with strawberry jam, 
 and cover with the other slices, press together 
 like a sandwich, and cut into squares or rounds ; 
 dip in batter, and fry in hot butter for five 
 minutes. Drain, then arrange neatly, sprinkle 
 sugar over, and serve at once. 
 
 BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING. 
 
 Cut some thin slices off a square loaf and 
 butter them on one side. Place a layer of them 
 at the bottom of a pie-dish; scatter over them 
 some currants and raisins that have previously 
 been soaked in boiling water ; put another layer 
 of bread and butter and more currants and 
 raisins, and so on until the dish is three parts 
 filled. Do not press the bread down. Fill up 
 
BRE 
 
 BRE 
 
 the dish with hot custard, pouring it in a little 
 at a time so that the bread may absorb it. Set 
 it to cook in a, moderately hot oven, and re- 
 move it as soon as done. 
 
 BREAD AND FRUIT FRITTERS. 
 
 Take twelve slices of bread and butter, cut 
 off the crust, and let them be of equal thick- 
 ness; spread them over with jam — any sort that 
 may be liked — and make a cover with another 
 slice ; press them tightly together, and cut them 
 into an^ desired form. Make' a batter, as for 
 apple fritters, dip them in, and fry in boiling 
 lard about ten minutes; dry them before the 
 fire on a piece of blotting-paper, and serve on a 
 napkin with sifted sugar sprinkled over. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. Sufficient for a small dish. 
 
 BREAD AND MEAT PUDDING, PORTABLE. 
 
 Make a bread dough, roll out the paste thick, 
 and put any kind of fat meat, seasoned accord- 
 ing to taste, upon it; wrap it over, and bake or 
 boil as may be most convenient. This mode of 
 cooking is particularly adapted for travellers or 
 colonial life. Any kind of game, poultry, or 
 meat may be stuffed, and, if well skewered be- 
 fore the paste is put around it, will be a con- 
 venient dish of bread, meat, and sauce com- 
 bined, as they may first be cooked at home, and 
 afterwards warmed for use when required. 
 
 BREAD AND PARSLEY FRITTERS. 
 
 Pour boiling water on six ounces of bread 
 without crust, cover it up for an hour, and then 
 beat it up with a fork until quite smooth; add 
 and mix thoroughly an ounce of finely-chopped 
 parsley, pepper and salt to taste, and four eggs, 
 well beaten. Fry, in fritters, a nice brown, and 
 serve with brown sauce. Time to fry, five min- 
 utes. Probable cost, about 6d. 
 
 BREAD, BROKEN, PUDDING. 
 
 This pudding will use up the crusts and rem- 
 nants of bread to be found in every household; 
 all will suit, no matter how dry they are, so 
 that they are not mouldy. Gather all into a 
 large bowl, and throw over it as much sweet- 
 ened milk as the bread is likely to absorb, with 
 two or three table-spoonfuls of finely-shredded 
 suet, and a little salt. Cover until well soaked, 
 then beat the whole smooth, and add two or 
 three well-bgaten eggs, a few currants and 
 raisins, and some grated nutmeg. The addition 
 of a table-spoonful of rum will be found an im- 
 provement. Bake in an ordinary pudding-dish 
 for about an hour and a. half. 
 
 BREAD, BROWN, BISCUITS. 
 
 Take two ounces of butter dissolved in half a 
 pint of boiling water, and stir it into a pound of 
 wheat meal ; knead it to a firm dough. Mix all 
 well, roll out to a thickness of about half an 
 inch, and cut with a biscuit-cutter or a sharp- 
 edged tea-cup. Prick the biscuits with a fork, 
 and bake in a quick oven. Average cost, 4d. 
 Sufficient for one pound of biscuits. 
 
 BREAD, BROWN, PUDDING. 
 
 Take equal quantities of well-washed cur- 
 rants, brown bread-crumbs, and shredded suet — 
 half a pound of each — add six ounces of sugar, 
 half a glass of brandy, and the same quantity 
 of cream; mix all together, with six eggs well 
 beaten, leaving out the whites of two. Bake in 
 
 a moderate oven for two hours. Serve with 
 sweet sauce and sugar over the top. Probable 
 cost, 2s. Sufficient for fi-ve or six persons. 
 
 BREAD CAKES, FRIED, AMERICAN. 
 
 To five tea-cupfuls of light dough add half a 
 cupful of butter, three of brown sugar, a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, four eggs, and a little grated 
 nutmeg. Knead these well together with fiour, 
 and let them rise before the fire until very 
 light. Knead the dough again after it rises; 
 cut it into diamond-shaped cakes ; let them rise ; 
 and fry in lard or dripping, as soon as light. 
 These cakes must be served as soon as they are 
 ready. 
 
 BREAD, COBBETT'S RECIPE FOR. 
 
 Take one pint of good sweet yeast, and the 
 same of slightly warm water ; make a hollow in 
 the centre of a bushel of flour and throw it in, 
 and mix it up with the flour lying round it, till 
 it has become a thin batter; then throw some 
 flour over the batter, and a cloth over the pan ; 
 draw it near the fire to leaven, and when suffi- 
 ciently risen, which may be known by the cracks 
 and flowing of the yeast, mix the whole, with the 
 addition of more warm water or milk, and a 
 little salt strewn over, into a stiff dough. Knead 
 it well, shape it into loaves, in tins or otherwise, 
 place them in a warm place for twenty minutes, 
 and then bake in a moderate oven. If the oven 
 is too hot, the bread will not rise well. 
 
 BREAD CROUSTADES. 
 
 Bread croustades are baked in a variety of 
 shapes. The inside or crumb is scooped out, 
 and the outer part or crust is fried, and then 
 dried from the fat and filled with mincemeat or 
 ragout. In Scotland croustades or moulds are 
 made of mashed potatoes, and lined with gratin 
 composed of the white parts of fowl or veal 
 seasoned with salt, pepper, and herbs. Miinster 
 loaves may be classed under the same head as a 
 supper-dish. They are made thus : scrape three 
 or four ounces of lean ham, and an ounce or 
 two of veal, and mix it with a pound of well- 
 mashed potatoes ; add salt, pepper, and a couple 
 of eggs to bind, and mould into any shapes de- 
 sired. They may be fried and served with or 
 without gravy. 
 
 BREAD-CRUMBS, FRIED. 
 
 Put some thin slices of bread into an oven 
 when the fire has gone low, and let them stay all 
 night; roll them next morning into crumbs. 
 Put into a frying-pan some butter or lard, and 
 when it is on . the point of boiling, add the 
 bread-crumbs. Stir them till they are of a clear 
 brown colour. Take them out with a slice, and 
 put them on blotting-paper before the fire, to 
 draw away all the fat ; or they may be browned 
 in a gentle oven without butter. BreaiJ-crumbs 
 so prepared are useful for serving with game of 
 any sort. 
 BREAD CRUSTS TOASTED FOR SOUP. 
 
 Toast bread crusts in front of a small fire, 
 and on a wire toaster. When brown on both 
 sides, cut the bread into very small dice before 
 serving. TTntoasted bread swells, and is likely 
 to spoil the appearance of the soup. Crusts for 
 toasted cheese are pulled, in rough pieces, from 
 a fresh loaf, and then browned in the oven or in 
 front of a fire. 
 
BRE 
 
 76 
 
 BRE 
 
 BREAD CUSTARD PUDDING. 
 
 Make a custard according to the size of pud- 
 ding required. A pint of custard will fill a 
 medium-sized dish. Cut thin slices of bread and 
 butter, to suit the dish, and over each layer 
 throw currants, sugar, and finely-cut candied 
 lemon, and a little nutmeg. Pour the custard 
 over by degrees so that the bread may be well 
 saturated, and let it stand an hour before put- 
 ting it into the oven. Just before it is put in, 
 throw over the last of the custard, and bake in 
 a moderate oven for half an hour. Probable 
 cost, about 1b. Sufiicient for five or six people. 
 
 BREAD FRIED FOR SOUP. 
 
 Take one or two slices of stale bread a quarter 
 of an inch thick. Kemove the crust and cut 
 them into small dice not more than a quarter of 
 an inch square. Half fill an iron saucepan with 
 frying fat and let this boil, which it will do when 
 it is still, and a blue smoke rises from it. Put 
 the sippets a few at a time into a frying basket, 
 plunge them into the fat, and shake them about 
 until they are a golden brown colour. Turn 
 them upon kitchen paper to free them from 
 grease, take another spoonful and proceed as be- 
 fore until a sufficient quantity of sippets are 
 fried. Put the fried bread upon a dish covered 
 with a napkin, and hand round with the soup. 
 Sometimes the sippets are put into the soup 
 tureen, and the soup is poured over them. 
 
 BREAD GRATER. 
 
 A bread-grater is a tin cylinder perforated 
 with holes Upon each side, and as its name im- 
 plies is used to crumble bread for forcemeats, 
 etc. Although many cooks dispense with it 
 entirely, and merely rub the bread between the 
 palms of the hands, the crumbs thus prepared 
 are not nearly so smooth and even as when this 
 little article is used. Probable cost. Is. to Is. 6d. 
 
 BREAD, HOME-MADE. 
 
 Make a cavity in the middle of a quartern of 
 flour, and stir into it a pint of warm milk or 
 water, four table-spoonfuls of good yeast, and a 
 little salt. Cover it up and set it before the fire 
 to rise. If set overnight make up next morn- 
 ing, then add half a pint more milk or water, 
 and knead it into a dough for ten minutes. Set 
 it by the fire for one hour and a half, then make 
 into loaves, and bake from one hour and a half 
 to two hours, according to size. If equal quan- 
 tities of meal and flour be used, this will make 
 an excellent brown bread. 
 
 BREAD, HOUSEHOLD. 
 
 To ten pounds of flour in a kneading-trough 
 put a small handful of salt. Stir into this 
 about two quarts of water, more or less, as some 
 kinds of flour absorb more water than others. 
 For very white bread, made with superfine flour, 
 the dough should be softer than for seconds or 
 brown bread. In summer the water may be 
 lukewarm; in winter, considerably warmer, hut 
 never hot enough to hill the yeast. After the 
 water is mixed with the flour, add a cupful of 
 good yeast, then knead the bread, and leave it 
 to rise in a warm place, covered with a cloth. 
 If all goes well, it will rise sufficiently in the 
 course of an hour or aii hour and a half. Then 
 divide it into rolls, loaves, or tin-bread, as 
 wanted, and bake. For a three-pound loaf take 
 
 three pounds and a half of dough; for a four- 
 pound loaf, four pounds eleven ounces; for a 
 six-pound loaf, six pounds and three-quarters; 
 while for an eight-pound loaf, nine pounds 
 should be allowed. 
 BREAD, HOUSEHOLD (another way). 
 
 It often happens that household bread, from a 
 little want of care, is found bitter and unpalat- 
 able. To remedy this, the yeast or barm should 
 be put into water overnight. Next day peel 
 and boil three pounds of potatoes, beating them 
 to a pulp, and pass through a colander, with a 
 pint of cold water to half a pint of good sweet 
 yeast. Mix the potato pulp and yeast thor- 
 oughly together, and then pour it into a hollow 
 made in the middle of one peck of flour. Stir 
 some of the flour into the mixture till it is like 
 a thick batter, then cover with a little of the 
 dry flour, throw a cloth over the pan, and set it 
 near the fire to rise. In about an hour mix it 
 with five pints of lukewarm water and two 
 ounces of salt, to a dough. Cover it up again 
 as before, and let it stand this time about two 
 hours, then knead it into loaves, and bake for 
 an hour and a half in a good oven. Probable 
 cost, about 6d. per four-pound loaf. 
 
 BREAD, INDIAN CORN. 
 
 Mix half a pint of white Indian meal, coarsely 
 ground, with one pint of fresh milk, one egg, 
 and a pinch of salt. Get ready a tin of, say 
 four inches diameter at the bottom, and three 
 inches deep, grease it well, and pour in the 
 batter, which should only half fill the dish. 
 Bake in a tolerably quick oven and serve very 
 hot, on a white d'oyley, or, if preferred, halve 
 it and butter it. Time, thirty to forty minutes. 
 Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 BREAD JELLY (for Invalids). 
 
 Toast thin slices ot a French roll till they are 
 equally brown on both sides, and of a pale 
 colour, then boil them in a quart of water till 
 they become a sort of jelly. Cool a little in a 
 spoon as a test. Strain over some juices of 
 lemon-peel, and sweeten with sugar. A little 
 wine may be added if preferred. 
 
 BREAD OMELET. 
 
 Mix equal quantities of bread-crumbs and 
 cream, a tea-spoonful of each, break an ounce 
 of butter into bits, and add with it salt, pepper, 
 and nutmeg. When the cream has been ab- 
 sorbed by the bread, beat it till smooth with 
 a fork, and mix with it three well-beaten eggs. 
 Pry like an ordinary omelet. Time to fry, 
 three to four minutes. 
 
 BREAD PUDDING. 
 
 Take fine bread-crumbs, and pour upon them 
 as much boiling milk as they will absorb. Soak 
 awhile, then for every table-spoonful of bread 
 allow one egg, well beaten; sweeten the mix- 
 ture agreeably and grate in a little nutmeg. 
 Put it into a buttered basin, and boil from 
 twenty to thirty minutes, according to the size 
 of the pudding. If baked, rather less time will 
 do ; it only requires to be a light brown. 
 
 BREAD PUDDING, BOILED. 
 
 Soak half a pint of bread-crumbs with one 
 pint of milk thrown on them while in a boiling 
 
r? 
 
 BRE 
 
 state, and when the milk has become cold, add 
 three well-beaten eggs, two ounces of currants 
 with sugar and nutmeg to taste. Mix all well 
 together, butter a basin, pour in the mixture, 
 and keep it boiling, with a cloth securely tied 
 over the top, for rather more than one hour. 
 Pieces of bread unfit for the table, on account 
 of their staleness, may be used up in bread pud- 
 dings, by carefully soaking them, and then 
 pressing them dry before they are added to the 
 rest. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. 
 
 BREAD PUDDING WITH ONIONS. 
 
 Mix half a pound of bread-crumbs with a tea- 
 spoonful of sage, two ounces of onions, and 
 pepper and salt, with three-quarters of a pint 
 of milk. Add two eggs well beaten, and bake 
 m a quick oven. 
 
 BREAD, PULLED. 
 
 Pull the soft portion of a new loaf into rough 
 pieces; let them be of equal size, say about two 
 or three inches each way. Dry the pieces in a 
 slow oven or before the fire, till they become a 
 nice light brown colour, and when they are 
 quite crisp they will be ready for use. 
 
 BREAD, RICE. 
 
 Allow one pound of rice to four pounds of 
 wheat flour. The rice must be first boiled in 
 milk or water, and while warm added to the 
 flour, but care must be taken to see that the 
 rice is thoroughly done. Mix all into a dough 
 with a little yeast, a quarter of an ounce of salt,' 
 and sufficient warm water for the required con- 
 sistency. When it has risen before the flre a 
 proper time, make into loaves of any shape, and 
 bake according to size. This bread is very 
 delicious made with a mixture of milk. Prob- 
 able cost, 8d. per four-pound loaf. 
 
 BREAD SAUCE. 
 
 Take a little stale bread, and rub it through 
 a wire sieve, or grate it, till two ounces of tine 
 crumbs are obtained. Put these into a sauce- 
 pan with half a pint of milk, a moderate-sized 
 onion, peeled, and six peppercorns. Boil for 
 ten minutes, and stir the sauce to keep it from 
 burning. Lift it from the fire. Take out the 
 onion and the peppercorns, stir in a small pat 
 of butter, and two or three spoonfuls of cream, 
 if it is to be had, and keep stirring till the but- 
 ter is dissolved. Serve hot in a sauce tureen. 
 Cooks often make the mistake df preparing this 
 sauce some time before it is wanted, and this 
 makes it pappy. If liked, a very little grated 
 nutmeg can be added to the sauce, but most 
 people would prefer that it should be omitted. 
 
 BREAD SAUCE (another way). 
 
 Stew the head, neck, and legs of poultry with 
 an onion, a little mace, peppercorns, and salt. 
 Take one pint of the broth when strained, pour 
 it hot over twelve ounces of bread-crumbs, boil 
 for ten minutes, and add three table-spoonfuls 
 of cream. Time to make the broth, two hours. 
 
 BREAD SAUCE (another way). 
 
 Cut a French roll, one day old, into thick 
 slices. Put them into a clean saucepan ; add a 
 few peppercorns, one whole onion, a little salt, 
 and boiling milk enough to cover it. Let it 
 simmer gently by the side of the fire till the 
 
 bread soaks up the milk; then add a little 
 cream, take out the onions, and rub the whole 
 through a sieve. Serve very hot. 
 
 BREAD SAUCE FOR PARTRIDGES. 
 
 Moisten soft crumb of bread in milk, and 
 simmer it by the side of the fire with the lid on 
 the pan for about fifteen minutes. Then add 
 some butter, and season with pepper and salt. 
 BREAD, SHORT. 
 
 To one pound and a half of flour add the fol- 
 lowing ingredients:— a quarter of a pound of 
 candied orange and lemon-peel, cut small; the 
 same of sweet almonds, blanched and cut; loaf 
 sugar, and caraway comfits (some of the latter 
 may be kept to strew over the top of the bread). 
 Dissolve a pound of butter, and when it is get- 
 ting cool pour it into the flour, and mix it 
 quickly into a dough, with half a pound more 
 flour. Then pour it into a large round cake of 
 an inch in tluckness ; divide it into four parts, 
 and pinch the edge of each piece neatly with 
 the thumb and finger; strew the caraway com- 
 fits over the top, with small devices of orange- 
 or citron-peel. Lay the cakes on floured paper, 
 which is again to be placed upon tins, and bake 
 in a moderate oven. Time to bake, twenty-five 
 to thirty minutes. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. 
 BREAD, SIPPETS OF. 
 
 Cut slices of stale bread about the third of an 
 inch thick, and trim into any form required. 
 Fry them in butter till some are dark, but not 
 burnt, and some a light brown. When they are 
 crisp, lay them on a cloth to dry. When wanted 
 to adhere to the edge of a dish, dip the end in a 
 mixture of white of egg and flour. If the dish 
 be made very hot the sippets will not stay in 
 their places. 
 
 BREAD, STALE, HOW TO USE UP. 
 
 When bread has become so hard that it can- 
 not be eaten, it should be grated into coarse 
 powder, and preserved in wide-mouthed bottles 
 or jars. When kept well covered up, and in a 
 dry place, it will remain good for a considerable 
 time. Bread thus powdered will be found very 
 useful for the preparation of puddings, stuff- 
 ings, and similar purposes. 
 
 BREAD, TIPSY. 
 
 Cut a French roll into thin slices, and pare 
 off the crusts, leaving it a nice round shape ; 
 spread raspberry, strawberry, or currant jam 
 over each slice, and pile them one on the other 
 in a glass dish. Pour over them as much sherry 
 as the bread will absorb. Ornament it round 
 with blanched almonds cut into very fine strips, 
 and stick them also on the top; pour a custard 
 round and serve. This is a quickly-prepared 
 and cheap dish. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Suffi- 
 cient for four or five persons. 
 BREAD, UNFERMENTED. 
 
 Take two ounces of carbonate of soda, one 
 ounce and a quarter of tartaric acid, and a piece 
 of sal-ammoniac, about the size of a hazel-nut, 
 powdered. Let these be well mixed in a per- 
 fectly dry state, Then blend them with half a 
 peck of wheaten flour — or one-third of barley 
 flour may be- used — and about two ounces of 
 salt. Make a deep hole in the middle of the 
 flour so prepared, and pour in as much cold 
 water as will make the dough somewhat less stiff 
 
BRE 
 
 78 
 
 BRE 
 
 than bread dough is usually made. Mix it 
 briskly and well. Make this quantity into three 
 loaves. Put them immediately into a quick oven, 
 and let them bake for about one hour and ten 
 minutes. The exact time will depend, of course, 
 upon the heat of the oven; but a very little 
 practice will determine this. Sweet, palatable, 
 nutritious bread can be made cheaply by care- 
 fully following this recipe. 
 
 BREAD, WHEAT AND RICE. 
 
 Beat one pound and a half of well-boiled rice 
 to a paste, and mix it with seven pounds of fine 
 wheaten flour while still warm ; take a pint and 
 a half of warm milk and water, four ounces of 
 salt, and four table-spoonfuls of yeast, put them 
 into the centre of the flour, make a thin batter, 
 cover the top with flour, and leave it to rise for 
 an hour and a half ; then make it into a dough 
 with more milk and water, and after kneading 
 and forming it into loaves, set it by the fire for 
 another hour to rise before being put into the 
 oven. Bake from one and a half to two hours. 
 Probable cost. Is. lOd. Sufficient for four loaves. 
 BREAD WITHOUT YEAST. 
 
 To every half-quartern of flour add one tea- 
 spoonful of carbonate of soda and half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt. Mix all together; then to the 
 water, sufficient to make a dough, add half a 
 tea-spoonful of muriatic acid. Set into the oven 
 at once. This makes delicious and wholesome 
 bread. Some use tartaric acid; in which case 
 the bread will contain tartrate of soda, which, 
 although not poisonous, is medicinal, being 
 slightly purgative. On the other hand, muri- 
 atic acid neutralises soda just as well as tartaric 
 acid, and the resulting compound is only com- 
 mon salt. 
 
 BREAKFAST BISCUITS. 
 
 Mix flour with cream to a proper consistency, 
 and salt to taste. One pound of flour to a 
 quarter of a pint of thin cream will make a 
 paste sufficiently stiff. Form into small bis- 
 cuits, prick them, and bake in a hot oven for 
 fifteen or twenty minutes. Probable cost, about 
 6d. Or, mix flour as stated with a small bit of 
 butter, the size of a pigeon's egg, and moisten 
 with a quarter of a pint of cold water ; add a 
 little salt, and bake in a hot oven for fifteen 
 minutes. ■ Probable cost, about 4d. 
 
 BREAKFAST CAKES OR ROLLS. 
 
 Take one pound of fine flour, and make it into 
 a dough with an ounce of butter which has been 
 warmed, a little salt, half a pint of milk, and 
 half an ounce of good fresh German yeast dis- 
 solved in warm water; cover it well up, and 
 leave it all night by the side of the fire. In the 
 morning make up into rolls, and if they stand 
 for half an hour before baking they will be all 
 the better. Seven or eight rolls may be made 
 with this quantity of dough. Time for baking, 
 from fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable 
 cost, 7d. 
 
 BREAKFAST CAKES OR ROLLS (another way). 
 
 Make a batter with two pounds of flour, and 
 as much warm milk and water, with about a 
 quarter of a pint of fresh yeast, and a little salt, 
 as will smooth it. Let it stand before the fire 
 for two hours, to rise. Have ready a little flour 
 
 and butter well rubbed together, and make the 
 batter with this, and as much more flour as 
 may be required, into a light dough. Make it 
 into rolls and bake on tins; rasp, and keep 
 them covered up warm till wanted. Time, fif- 
 teen to twenty minutes. Sufficient for twelve 
 ordinary-sized rolls. Probable cost, 8d. 
 BREAKFAST MUFFINS. 
 
 Stir flour enough into a pint of hot milk, and 
 about a quarter of a pint of yeast, to make a 
 thin batter, then put it in a warm place to rise. 
 Eub two ounces of butter into a little flour, add 
 salt, and with more milk and flour make the 
 batter into a stiff dough. Put it aside, well 
 covered up, in a warm place for half an hour, 
 when the dough will be quite ready to shape into 
 muffins, but they should not be baked until 
 they have stood for another quarter of an hour. 
 They are easily baked in a frying-pan or on a 
 griddle. Time to bake, twenty minutes to half 
 an hour. 
 
 BREAM, TO DRESS. 
 
 This handsome, but not very excellent ^sh, 
 will eat best if broiled over a slow clear fire for 
 half an hour. The inside must be thoroughly 
 cleansed, but the scales should not be removed; 
 and it should be wiped perfectly dry before it 
 is put on the fire. Turn it so that both sides 
 may be browned, and dredge a little flour if 
 any cracks appear. Serve with melted butter 
 and anchovy sauce. In carving, remove the 
 scales and skin, and serve only what is under- 
 ' neath. Bream may be stuffed with a veal force- 
 meat, and baked — it will take longer than the 
 broiling process — or wrapped in a, buttered 
 paper, and placed in a moderate oven for about 
 half an hour. It should be well basted in its 
 ,owu dripping and a little butter. 
 BREMEN CHEESECAKES. 
 
 Cheesecakes from this recipe are quickly pre- 
 pared and at little cost. Beat well, till white, 
 the yolks of eight eggs, and add eight ounces of 
 finely-sifted sugar and eight ounces of sweet 
 almonds, powdered. Line the pans with a thin 
 paste, and put in the mixture with a little fresh 
 butter on the top of each just before they are 
 placed in the oven. Take care that the oven is 
 not too hot, or the cakes will fall in cooling. 
 Bake for about a quarter of an hour. Prob' 
 able cost, 2s. 
 
 BRENTFORD ROLLS. 
 
 Take two pounds of flour, a quarter of a pound 
 of butter, two ounces of powdered sugar, two 
 eggs, a..quarter of a pint of yeast, milk enough 
 to form a dough, and salt according to taste. 
 Rub the flour, butter, and sugar together ; beat 
 the eggs, and add them to the other ingredi- 
 ents. When light, mould the dough out in 
 rolls, let them rise, and bake on tins in a 
 moderate oven. 
 
 BRESLAU BEEF. 
 
 (See Beef, Beeslau.) 
 BRETONNE BRANDY PUDDING. 
 
 Boil six ounces of loaf sugar in half a pint of 
 milk, allow it to cool for a little, and add to it 
 six well-beaten eggs ; then let it get quite cold. 
 Prepare a quarter of a pound of thin slices of 
 stale bread and saturate the half of them with 
 two glasses of brandy. Lay some of the bread 
 
BRE 
 
 79 
 
 BRI 
 
 in a basin previously buttered. Holding a pint 
 and a half. Strew over it some chopped candied 
 orange-peel and stoned raisins, and then some 
 custard, till all is used up. Tie the basin-oVer 
 with a buttered paper. Let it Btand to soak 
 for ten minutes, and steam for an hour and 
 three-quarters. Turn out, and serve with a 
 sauce of clarified sugar which has been seasoned 
 with vanilla and brandy. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 Sufiicient for six or seven persons. 
 BRETONNE SAUCE (for cold or hot Beef). 
 
 Mix a wine-glassful of vinegar with equal 
 quantities of pouiided sugar and custard, a 
 tea-spoonful of each, and about a table-spoon- 
 ful of grated horse-radish. When pickles are 
 preferred, this mixture will be found very agree- 
 able ; it combines the flavour of a sauce and 
 pickle. Probable cost, 4d. 
 BRIDE CAKE. 
 
 Cream three-quarters of a pound of fresh 
 butter, beat in one pound of moist brown sugar, 
 add a quarter of a pound of treacle, and beat 
 together thoroughly in a large, deep bowl. 
 Ada six eggs one by one, beating each one 
 in lightly; then two pounds of picked currants, 
 half a pound of Valencia raisins, half a pound 
 
 BBIDE CAKE. 
 
 of candied peel, and two oimces of sweet 
 almonds (blanched and chopped), and, lastly, 
 one pound of finely sifted flour. This should 
 be stirred lightly in, and afterwards a wine- 
 glassful of rum should be added. This cako 
 needs to be baked for five hours in a moderate 
 
 oven, and is best baked in two separate tins. 
 Almond icing must be spread in the middle 
 of each cake, great care being given to the 
 making of this, as it is the nicest part 
 of the whole cake. Almond icing is made 
 as follows : Mix two pounds of best icing 
 sugar with one and a quarter pounds of 
 ground almonds. Dissolve half of a small 
 packet of gelatine, and add the whites of 
 four eggs; then add both to the sugar and 
 almonds. Pour in a wineglassful of rum or 
 brandy. Lemon juice or vanilla essence (with 
 an extra white of an egg) may be substituted 
 if preferred. Stir the mixture well. Dust » 
 baking-board with creme de riz, turn the 
 almond paste on to this, and roll out to the 
 thickness desired. Each cake should be cut 
 in half, and a layer of almond paste placed 
 on top and pressed closely into the cake. The 
 top layer should be covered, then left for a 
 few days until firm. 
 BRIDE PIE. 
 
 Parboil some veal sweetbreads and pieces of 
 lamb in water, and cut them into slices. Mix 
 with them some slices of blanched ox palate, 
 streaky bacon, a pint of oysters, and some roast 
 chestnuts, and season with salt, mace, and nut- 
 meg. When the pie-dish is full, lay slices of 
 butter on the top of it, cover it with paste, and 
 bake. When done, lift up the lid, and put into 
 the pie four raw eggs beaten up with a little 
 butter, the juice of a lemon, and a glass of 
 sherry. 
 
 BRIGHTON ROCK. 
 
 Blanch and pound to a paste three ounces of 
 sweet and one of bitter almonds, using a. little 
 rose-water to moisten. Add four ounces of 
 clean currants, and mix one pound of dry flour 
 with half a pound of sifted loaf sugar and the 
 almond paste. Stir into this half a pound of 
 fresh butter beaten to a cream, and mix all well 
 together. The cakes may be baked in small 
 pans or dropped in lumps on flouredj tins, and 
 cooked for ten or fifteen minutes. Probable 
 cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 BRILL, BRAISED (4 I'Amiral). 
 
 Cut the fins and tail off a good-sized brill, 
 place it on a bed of sliced carrot, turnip, and 
 onion, in a fish kettle, dark skin downward. 
 Moisten with a half pint of Chablis and white 
 stock, season with Bait, cover and cook over the 
 fire until tender. Prepare twelve large oysters 
 and twelve mussels, beard the oysters, egg and 
 crumb them in white bread-crumbs, and fry 
 them in deep fat. Egg and crumb the mussels 
 in toasted bread-crumbs, and fry likewise. 
 Take up the fish, place it on a dish, arrange the 
 oysters and mussels alternately round the sides, 
 and sauce over with a cardinal sauce. Serve 
 with a boat of the same sauce and sliced lemons. 
 Price, lOd. to Is. 2d. per pound. 
 BRILL, STUFFED AND BAKED. 
 
 Boil a brill of about seven pounds in salted 
 water for ten minutes, then drain, open care- 
 fully, and take out the large bone, fill with veal 
 stuffing, and bake in a moderate oven for 
 twenty minutes, basting frequently with but- 
 ter. When cooked, sprinkle a little pepper, 
 calt, and minced parsley on top, and serve with 
 
BRI 
 
 80 
 
 BRO 
 
 the liquor from the tin poured over. Garnish 
 with parsley. 
 
 BRILL, TO BOIL. 
 
 This fish closely resembles the turbot, and is 
 boiled in the same manner. Choose a thick 
 fish, and see that it is quite fresh, which may 
 be known by the yellowish hue of the flesh. 
 Clean, cut off the fins, and, in order to preserve 
 its whiteness, rub it over with the juice of a 
 lemon and a little salt. Put it into a fish-kettle 
 with water to cover, and salt in the proportion 
 of three ounces to each gallon of water. Add a 
 little vinegar, bring it to a boil, and continue to 
 simmer gently until the fish is done. Lay it on 
 a dish the white side up. Garnish in the usual 
 way, and serve on a napkin. Time, twenty 
 minutes to boil a brill of four pounds' weight. 
 Brill may also be fried whole or in fillets like a 
 sole. 
 
 BRIOCHE, OR FRENCH PASTE. 
 
 To make this excellent French paste, take two 
 pounds of fine dry flour, and separate eight 
 ounces of it to make the leaven. Place this 
 last into a pan, and mix with it half a pint of 
 yeast and a little warm water. Throw a cloth 
 over the pan, and put it near the fire for about 
 twenty minutes to rise. Meanwhile make a 
 hollow space in the centre of the remaining 
 flour, and put into it half an ounce of salt, half 
 an ounce of finely-sifted sugar, and an eighth of 
 a pint of cream, or some milk if there is 
 no cream. Add a pound of good dry fresh 
 butter cut into small pieces; put them 
 into the flour, and pour over all six eggs well 
 beaten. Work all this with the hand until the 
 whole is quite smooth. If the flour will take 
 one or two eggs more, add them ; but the paste 
 must n«t be so soft as to adhere to the board or 
 roller. ^, When the leaven is well risen, spread 
 the paste out and the leaven over it, and knead 
 •well together. Then cut into small portions and 
 mix again, that the leaven may be thoroughly 
 and equally incorporated with the other ingre- 
 dients. Next, dust some flour on a cloth and 
 Toll the brioche (for so it is now called) in it. 
 Put it in a pan, and set it in a cool place in 
 summer, and in a warm place in winter. Use 
 it the early part of the following day; then 
 Inead it afresh, and if the French form is de- 
 sired, make into balls of uniform size.' Hollow 
 them at the top by pressing the thumb into 
 them ; brush them over with eggs, and put a 
 second much smaller ball into the hollow part 
 of each. Glaze again with yolk of egg, and 
 bake them for half an hour in a quick oven ; or 
 the brioche may be formed into cakes and placed 
 on a tin, and supported with pasteboard to pre- 
 vent the flattening of the cakes. Brioche may 
 also be used as a paste to enclose rissoles, or to 
 make rolls for jams or jellies, or even for vol au 
 vent ; but to many persons it is unpalatable on 
 account of the large proportion of butter and 
 eggs. (Se.t also Paste Bbioche.) 
 
 BROAD BEANS. 
 
 (See Beans, Bboad.) 
 
 BROCOLI, BOILED. 
 
 Trim off all leaves that are not required or 
 liked, and place the broooli in a pan of salted 
 ■water to kill any insects, etc., that may have 
 
 taken shelter under the stalks. Wash them 
 well, and put them into an uncovered saucepan 
 of boiling water, with a large table-^oonful of 
 salt to every half gallon of water. Keep them 
 boiling till done, which will be 'in about ten or 
 fifteen minutes, according to size. Drain them 
 directly they are done, or they will lose cblour 
 and become sodden. 
 
 BROCOLI, TO PICKLE. 
 
 Choose the finest, whitest, and closest vege- 
 tables before they are quite ripe. Pare off all 
 green leaves and the outsides of the stalks. 
 Parboil them in well-salted water. When 
 drained and dry, pull off the branches in con- 
 venient-sized pieces, and put them into a jar of 
 pickle prepared as for onions. Time to parboil, 
 four or five minutes. Probable cost, from 2d. 
 to 6d. 
 BROIL, TO. 
 
 In broiling, the first consideration is the grid- 
 iron. This should be kept most scrupulously 
 bright and clean. It should never be put away 
 dirty, but be polished and rubbed dry^very 
 time it is used, and carefully freed from ^case, 
 etc., between the bars, as well as on the top of 
 them. It should be placed over the fire for four 
 or five minutes to be heated through before be- 
 ing used, but not made so hot that it will burn 
 the meat; and after that it should be well 
 rubbed with mutton suet if meat is to be 
 cooked, and with chalk for fish; and it is im- 
 portant that a separate gridiron should be kept 
 for these two. The gridiron should be placed a 
 little above the fire, and held in a slanting direc- 
 tion, so that the fat which flows from it may not 
 drop upon the cinders, and so cause a smoke or 
 flame. If these should arise, the gridiron may 
 be lifted away for a moment till they have sub- 
 sided. The fire must be clear, brighb, and 
 tolerably strong, made of cinders mixed with a 
 little coke or charcoal. A half burnt-out fire is 
 the best. A little salt thrown over it will help 
 to make the fire clear. Sprinkle a little pepper 
 over the meat before it is put upon the bars, 
 but no salt. Turn it frequently with a pair of 
 steak tongs. If these are not at hand, and it is 
 necessary to use a fork, put it into the fat part 
 of the meat, never into the lean, or the juice 
 will escape. If, before turning the meat, a 
 little gravy has settled upon it, drop it carefully 
 on the dish upon which the meat is to be served. 
 Mutton chops and beef steaks are generally 
 preferred rather underdone ; but lamb and 
 pork chops must be well cooked. Sprinkle a 
 little salt upon the dish before placing the meat 
 upon it, and mix with it, if liked, a little 
 ketchup ; but, generally speaking, the juice 
 which runs from the meat is the only gravy re- 
 quired. Birds which are cut in halves before 
 broiling should be laid with the inside first to 
 the fire. Cutlets which have been egged and 
 breaded should be dipped in clarified butter be- 
 fore being laid upon the gridiron. Fish should 
 be wrapped in well-buttered paper before being 
 broiled, or, if this is not done, it should be 
 washed in vinegar, well dried, and dredged with 
 flour. Broiling is by no means difiicult if care 
 and attention be given to it. It should always 
 be done the last thing, as the meat should be 
 taken quickly from the fire to the table, and 
 the dishes and plates used should be made as hot 
 
BRO 
 
 81 
 
 BUG 
 
 as possible. With these — a clean gridiron, a 
 clear fire, good material, and close watchfulness, 
 and the exercise of a little judgment in taking 
 the meat up at the right moment — small dainty 
 pieces of meat and fish may be cooked by broil- 
 ing in a manner superior to that which can be 
 obtained by any other process of cookery. 
 
 BROSE, BEEF. 
 
 (See Bebf Bbose.) 
 
 BROTH, STRENGTHENING. 
 
 Put into a vessel four pounds of the scrag end 
 of a neck of mutton, freed entirely from fat, 
 and chopped into small pieces, with six pints of 
 water. Boil, skim, draw the pan back, and 
 simmer for an hour. Add three ounces of 
 washed rice, with u, turnip and some celery if 
 liked. Simmer for two hours. Strain, free 
 from fat, add salt, and serve. 
 
 BROWN BETTY PUDDING. 
 
 Peel, core, and chop finely six or more cook- 
 ing apples, and put a layer of them at the bot- 
 tom of a buttered pudding dish. Sprinkle them 
 with sugar, cinnamon, and little bits of butter ; 
 cover with bread-crumbs, and then another layer 
 of apples, and so on until the dish is full. 
 Sprinkle the top layer of bread-crumbs with bits 
 «i butter. Cover closely and bake for forty 
 minutes. Serve hot with cream and sugar. 
 
 BROWN BUTTER SAUCE (for boiled Skate and 
 other fish). 
 Dissolve two ounces of butter in a saucepan, 
 and stir it till it is brown without burning. Add 
 two table-spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, four 
 table-spoonfuls of good brown sauce, e. table- 
 spoonful of Harvey or Worcester sauce, a tea- 
 spoonful of bruised capers, and half a tea-spoon- 
 ful of anchovy. Stir the sauce over the fire till 
 it boils, and serve it poured over the fisE. 
 
 BROWN SAUCE. 
 
 Melt two ounces of butter in a small sauce- 
 pan, and add one ounce of flour, stirring 
 until it is of a brown colour. Then add suffi- 
 cient boiling stock to render it of a cream-like 
 consistency, and season to taste with salt and 
 pepper. 
 
 BROWN SOUP. 
 
 Cut into small pieces the following vege- 
 tables: — One pound of turnips, the same of car- 
 rots, half a pound of celery, and six ounces of 
 onions. Put these into a pan with four ounces 
 of butter, and let them stew, with occasional 
 stirring, till brown. Boil one pint and a half 
 of peas in as much boiling stock or water as 
 will make up the entire quantity to three quarts. 
 Add half a pound of toasted bread, season with 
 black peppercorns, Jamaica pepper, and salt. 
 Boil gently for three or four hours, then rub the 
 soup through a coarse sieve, and return it to 
 the pan. When it boils it is ready for table. 
 
 BROWN SOUP (another way). 
 
 Slice and fry in butter half a dozen carrots, 
 with the same quantity of turnips, four pota- 
 toes, four onions, and three heads of celery. 
 Put them into a pan with five quarts of boiling 
 water. Let them stew four or five hours, then 
 mb through a sieve, season with pepper and 
 salt, then boil and serve. 
 G 
 
 BROWNING. 
 
 {See Black Jack.) 
 
 BRUNOISE SOUP. 
 
 Take half an onion, two carrots, one turnip, 
 and one leek. Peel the onion, pare and wash 
 the carrots, turnip, and leek, and cut them into 
 very small dice. Put them into a stewpan, add 
 one ounce of butter, and season with a little 
 salt, pepper, and sugar. Cover, and keep over 
 the fire for a few minutes, shaking the pan well 
 to prevent burning. Pour in two quarts of 
 clear stock, and boil gently for about half an 
 hour. Take off the fat, and serve with sippets 
 of toast. 
 BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 
 
 Pick, trim, and wash a number of sprouts. 
 Put them into plenty of fast-boiling water. The 
 sudden immersion of the vegetables will check 
 the boiling for some little time, but they must 
 be brought to a boil as quickly as possible, that 
 they may not lose their green colour; add a 
 table-spoonful of salt, keep the saucepan un- 
 covered, and boil very fast for fifteen minutes. 
 Lose no time in draining them when sufficiently 
 done; and serve plain, or with a little white 
 sauce over the top. Cost, from 2d. to 4d. per 
 pound, according to the season. Sufficient for 
 a dish, one pound. 
 
 BRUSSELS SPROUTS, SAUTi. 
 
 Wash, and drain one pound of sprouts; put 
 them into boiling water for fifteen minutes, with 
 half an ounce of salt to each gallon, and when 
 done, dry them on a clean cloth. Dissolve half 
 an ounce of butter in a pan, and shake the 
 sprouts in it over the fire for a minute or two ; 
 season them with pepper, salt, and a little nut- 
 meg, and serve very hot. Sprouts about the 
 size of a walnut have the most delicate flavour. 
 Sufficient for two or three persons. Probable 
 cost, 2d. to 4d. per pound. 
 
 BUBBLE AND SQUEAK. 
 
 Dissolve two or three ounces of butter or beef 
 dripping in a frying-pan. Cut some thin slices 
 of cold boiled or roast meat, and fry them 
 slightly, a nice brown. Mix some cold greens of 
 any kind with a few mashed potatoes, shredded 
 onion, if liked, salt, and pepper, and fry, stirring 
 all the time. Serve hot, with the vegetables 
 round the dish, and the meat in the middle. 
 Fry for about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 
 from 4d. to 6d. without the meat. 
 BUCKWHEAT CAKES, AIVIERICAN. 
 
 These cakes are seen on most American breai- 
 fast-tables. Mode of making: — To a pint of 
 buckwheat-flour add a large tea-spoonful of 
 baking-powder and a little salt. Mix to a thin 
 batter, using lukewarm water in cold weather. 
 The frying-pan requires to be only rubbed with 
 grease, and the batter dropped in in quantities 
 sufficient to cover an ordinary breakfast-plate 
 at one time. When done on one side, turn, and 
 send to table very hot and well buttered, or they 
 can be eaten with treacle or syrup if preferred. 
 BUCKWHEAT CAKES (another way). 
 
 Put a large table-spoonful of yeast into a 
 hollow made in the middle of one quart of buck- 
 wheat flour, and work it into a light dough with 
 warm water, cover it up warm by the fire to rise 
 for three hours. When risen enough, the top will 
 
BVi. 
 
 BUL 
 
 be cracked; then get ready the griddle — it 
 should be hot, and well buttered or greased. 
 The cakes may then be proceeded with. Con- 
 vey with a ladle as much batter as may be 
 wanted, according to the size of the cakes ; when 
 done on one side turn, and, when quite baked, 
 butter them as they are removed from the 
 griddle. A fresh supply of butter is required 
 for every cake. Lay them one on the other 
 and divide into quarters. 
 BULLACES. 
 
 (See Damsons.) 
 
 BULLOCK'S BRAINS. 
 
 Lay some slices of bacon into a stewpan, with 
 onions, carrots, chives, and parsley ; blanch the 
 brains in lukewarm water, and put them in with 
 equal quantities of white wine and stock broth, 
 seasoned with pepper and salt. Stew gently 
 for half an hour, and send to table with fried 
 parsley. 
 BULLOCK'S BRAINS WITH TOMATO SAUCE. 
 
 Stew the brains as directed in the preceding 
 recipe, and when quite ready to serve, cover with 
 tomato sauce. 
 BULLOCK'S HEART (k la Mode). 
 
 Soak the heart tor two hours in cold water 
 mixed with a little vinegar; take out the arter- 
 ial cartilage and the coagulated blood left in it ; 
 fill the inside with bacon cut into dice, seasoned 
 with pepper, salt, and chopped parsley. Tie it 
 round with tape into .its original shape. Stew 
 it in a saucepan, covered with broth, and half as 
 much cider, if to be had;- add a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, and as many onions and carrots as there 
 is space for. When it has simmered gently for 
 four hours, lay it on a dish, put the carrots and 
 onions round it; let the liquor boil a few min- 
 utes longer to thicken, then pour some of it 
 over the heart, and serve the rest in a sauce- 
 boat. If preferred, flavour the latter with 
 mushroom ketchup and a little red wine, which 
 will give to the heart the flavour of hare. 
 Probable cost. Is. 9d. to 3s. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. 
 BULLOCK'S HEART, TO ROAST. 
 
 Soak the heart as before, fill all the openings 
 at the top, or broad end, with a stuffing com- 
 posed of crumb of breads chopped suet, parsley, 
 pepper, and salt, moistened with an egg and a 
 little milk ; suspend with the pointed end down- 
 wards. Baste liberally. The heart will have 
 to be roasted from three to four hours, accord- 
 ing to the size; it should be well done. Send 
 to table with beef gravy. Probable cost. Is. 9d. 
 to 3s. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 BULLOCK'S HEART, WITH ONIONS. 
 
 Prepare a stufling of three ounces of bread- 
 crumb, two ounces of onion, parboiled and finely 
 cut, half an ounce of powdered sage, salt and 
 pepper to taste. Fill the heart as directed in 
 preceding recipe. It should be served with 
 good brown gravy and apple sauce. Time to 
 simmer, two to three hours ; to roast, from 
 three to four. Probable cost. Is. 9d. to .3b. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 BULLOCK'S KIDNEY, FRIED. 
 
 Cut up a bullock's kidney into very thin slices, 
 dust plentifully with flour, and season with 
 pepper and salt. Place an ounce of butter into 
 
 a saucepan; as soon as it begins to melt, put 
 the sliced and seasoned kidney to it; add a 
 little cold water, just enough to prevent burn- 
 ing, or, if to be had, use cider instead. Add a 
 table-spoonful of ketchup. Keep shaking and 
 stirring over a gentle fire, but do not let it 
 come to a, boil; if it does, the kidney will be 
 hard and tasteless. The secret of success con- 
 sists in not letting it cook too much, too fast, or 
 too long. Lay bits of toasted bread round the 
 edge of a dish ; with a spoon put the kidney in 
 the middle, give the gravy a boil up, and pour 
 over it. Some cooks garnish with sliced lemon, 
 and stew in port or white wine; for the latter, 
 the cider is not a bad substitute, and is more 
 easily obtained. 
 BULLOCK'S KIDNEY, FRIED (another way). 
 
 Soak a bullock's kidney for an hour or more 
 in warm water. Cut it into thin slices, drain, 
 dry, and season with pepper and salt, and dredge 
 them lightly with flour. Fry gently till they 
 become a light brown colour ; put the slices int6 
 a saucepan, doubling them a Uttle one over the 
 other. Make a gravy with the butter in the 
 pan, and a small quantity of flour to thicken. 
 Add a table-spoonful of vinegar if liked, with a 
 tea-spoonful of sugar; stew the kidney in this 
 till quite tender. Time to fry, from eight to 
 ten minutes. Probable cost. Is. 5d. Sufficient 
 for three persons. 
 
 BULLOCK'S KIDNEY, STEWED. 
 
 Fry the slices of a kidney in butter until they 
 become a light brown. Sprinkle them with, 
 pepper and salt. If^ke a gravy with the butter, 
 a little flour, and warm water; then put the 
 slices into the stewpan with the gravy, and stew 
 over a slow fire until quite tender. A little 
 mushroom ketchup may be added. Time, a 
 little more than an hour. Cost of kidney, lOd. 
 per pound. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 BULLOCK'S LIVER FOR GRAVY, 
 
 This liver may be and is used by many fried 
 with bacon, but it is more generally used for 
 gravy in made dishes. It is excellent for this 
 purpose prepared in the following manner: — 
 After well draining, lay it in a dish with 
 salt well spread over every side ; let it stay 
 twenty-four hours, then drain, and hang it in a 
 dry place, to use when required. 
 
 BULLOCK'S TONGUE ($l la Franfalse). 
 
 This is a very superior mode of cooMng a 
 tongue. Get together all the trimmings from 
 
 bttllock's tongue fob table. 
 
 poultry-heads, necks, etc., some ham, bacon 
 bones, or veal parings. Put the tongue into a 
 large stewpan with tbese remnants, add a small 
 quantity of water, some pepper and salt, a few 
 cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a good-sized 
 
BUL 
 
 83 
 
 BUN 
 
 onion. When it kas teen simmering one hour, 
 throw in a little more water, enough to just 
 cover the tongue ; simmer till done, then strain, 
 and make, a glaze of part of the gravy; lay it 
 oyer the tongue, and send to table ornamented 
 with fancily-made cuttings from boiled carrots 
 and turnips. The remainder of the gravy will 
 be of great use to the cook for sauces. Prob- 
 able cost, Ss. to 68. 
 
 BULLOCK'S TONGUE, BOILED. 
 
 _A tongue for boiling is best fresh from the 
 pickle; but a dry one should be soaked twelve 
 hours. Wash it well from the salt, and trim 
 off any objectionable part. Put it into a stew- 
 pan with plenty of water, and when it has once 
 boiled, simmer very gently till done. It is ex- 
 cellent, though the plan is not economical, if 
 boiled, or rather simmered, from six to seven 
 hours, and allowed to cool in the liquor; but, 
 in the ordinary way, a large tongue takes from 
 four to four and a half hours, and a small one 
 from three to three and a half. Take off the 
 skin and press the tongue into a round shape 
 and stand a weight on the top, or fasten at each 
 end to a board to keep it straight, if preferred. 
 When cold, put some glaze over it, and garnish 
 with parsley. Probable cost, 5s. to 6b. 
 
 BULLOCK'S TONGUE, CURED. 
 
 Mix well together equal quantities of salt and 
 sugar — a large table-spoonful of each — and half 
 a table-spoonful of saltpetre. Rub the tongue 
 with a good handful of common salt, and let it 
 lie all night, then drain, and wipe before adding 
 the above mixture. Lay it out on a board, and 
 rub the mixture all over, not omitting to put 
 some into the hole under the tongue. It must 
 be turned and rubbed with a little extra salt for 
 the first two or three days; then, with a large 
 spoon, moisten the tongue well every morning 
 for a fortnight. A tongue thus pickled will not 
 require any soaking. Probable cost, 5s. to 6s. 
 
 BULLOCK'S TONGUE, CURED (another way). 
 
 To half an ounce of saltpetre, pounded, two 
 ounces of common salt, and an ounce and a half 
 of coarse sugar, add a little bay salt, and rub it 
 into a tongue every day for eight or nine days, 
 turning it frequently. Remove it from the 
 pickle, drain, and hang it in a warm but not hot 
 place, to dry and harden. It may be cooked 
 whole, or a small piece may be cut off as re- 
 quired, and when boiled, grated for gravy. 
 Probable cost, 5s. to 6b. 
 
 BULLOCK'S TONGUE, LARDED (k \a. Berlin). 
 
 When the tongue has boiled for three hours, 
 remove it, but do not throw away the liquor. 
 Peel off the skin, lard the tongue with bacon, 
 and put it into a stewpan with a little of the 
 liquor, a few silver button onions, which have 
 been first fried, a glass of wine, a little sugar, 
 and flour to thicken ; stew the tongue in this for 
 an hour, then add the juice of half a lemon, and 
 serve. Probable cost, 5s. to 6s. 
 
 BULLOCK'S TONGUE, MIROTON OF. 
 
 Fry some slices of onion, shallot, chives, and 
 parsley, in butter; they should be cut small, 
 and fried a pale brown. Add a little flour, 
 mixed with a little good gravy or jelly, and 
 stir till thickish ; then lay in slices of ox tongue, 
 [seasoned with spice and salt, and simmer for 
 
 fifteen minutes. Pound some capers and an 
 anchovy, with a little vinegar; make all hot, 
 and pour over the tongue. Probable cost. 
 Is. 2d. per pound. One pound su(5cient for a 
 dish. 
 
 BULLOCK'S TONGUE, PICKLED AND BAKED. 
 Prepare the following ingredients : — Two 
 ounces of bay salt, one ounce of saltpetre, a few 
 cloves, a blade of mace, and some allspice, all 
 pounded together; add them to six ounces of 
 salt, and three ounces of coarse brown sugar; 
 mix well, and rub it into the tongue, and turn 
 it every day for fifteen days, then put it into 
 the oven with some butter over it, in pieces, and 
 a common crust over all. Bake until very 
 tender ; try it with a wooden skewer— if it offers 
 no resistance it is ready. Peel, and straighten 
 it out on a board, and when cold, glaze and 
 send to table with a ruffle round the root. Prob- 
 able cost, 5s. to 68. 
 
 BULLOCK'S TONGUE, WITH PIQUANTE SAUCE. 
 
 Many people forget, or do not, perhaps, know, 
 that an ox tongue may be served in many dif- 
 ferent ways besides cold boiled. The following 
 makes a handsome dish, and where people are 
 accustomed to Continental cookery will be sure 
 to be appreciated. Wash a fine tongue in cold 
 and then throw it into boiling water. Let it 
 boil for half an hour; take it out, drain, put it 
 into a. clean pan, and cover with cold water. 
 Simmer it for two hours, then add two or three 
 carrots, turnips, a bunch of celery, and sweet 
 herbs ; simmer another hour, remove the tongue 
 and skin it. Next, get a stewpan, and put into 
 it some small onions, two bay-leaves, a few 
 cloves, peppercorns, a sprig of thyme, a slice 
 of ham, and a scraped carrot, with about a. 
 quart of the liquor tie tongue was boiled in. 
 Place the tongue in last of all, cover down 
 tightly, and stew two hours. When done, put 
 the tongue on a hot dish. Thicken the sauce 
 with flour, mustard, and scraped horse-radish 
 (a very small quantity); give it. one boil, pour 
 over the tongu?, and serve. When too large 
 for a small party, cut the tongue in half before 
 stewing it. The one half may be served as 
 directedj and the other half may be pressed into 
 a mould, covered with a glaze, and served cold 
 for breakfast, lunch, etc. Probable cost of a 
 tongue, 5s. to 6s. One-half sufficient for five or 
 six persons. 
 
 BUN PUDDING. 
 
 Take as many stale buns as a dish will contain 
 without crowding; mix a. custard, allowing five 
 eggs to a quart of milk ; season .it.\yith sugar 
 and any kind of spices. Pour the custard over 
 the buns, and let them stand and soak one or 
 two hours. When all the custard is. absorbed, 
 bake for an hour and a half. This makes a very 
 economical and pleasant pudding for a family 
 where there are many children. 
 
 BUNS. 
 
 Directions for compounding a great variety of 
 buns will be found under their respective head- 
 ings, for which see Cakes and Buns in classified 
 index at end of volume. 
 BUNS, LIGHT TEA. 
 
 Take one pound of flour, half a tea-spoonful 
 of tartaric acid, and the same quantity of car- 
 
BUR 
 
 84 
 
 BUT 
 
 bonate of 8oda, and work all well together 
 through a sieve ; then rub two ounces of butter 
 into the flour, being very careful to leave no 
 lumps. When this is thoroughly mixed, add a 
 quarter of a pound of well-dried currants, two 
 ounces of sifted sugar, and a very few caraway- 
 seeds. Next, mix half a pint of milk with one 
 egg, make a hole in the middle of the flour, and 
 pour in the milk, working it all ligutly to- 
 gether. Do not touch the <K)Ugh with the hand, 
 or the buns will be heavy, but place it in lumps 
 on the baking-tin with a fork. Probable cost 
 for a dozen cakes. Is. 
 BURDWAN, INDIAN. 
 
 This dish is much appreciated in India, and 
 almost any kind of cold meat may be used for 
 it. Venison, however, has the preference, but 
 poultry may be so cooked as to ensure success. 
 Take a table-spoonful of minced Spanish onion 
 and half that quantity of shallot. To these put 
 a pint of cold water, a mild seasoning of cayenne 
 pepper, a table-spoonful of essence of anchovies, 
 and an ounce of bfttter, mixed with a tea^spoon- 
 ful of flour. Let this sauce simmer, after it has 
 come to a boil, about a quarter of an hour, or 
 until the onion is tender ; then add to it a table- 
 spoonful of chilli vinegar and a glass or two of 
 Madeira. Draw the stewpan near the fire, and 
 place the meat into it — if a fowl, divide it into 
 joints and strip off the skin — when hot through, 
 draw still nearer to the fire, but it should not be 
 allowed to boil. If the fowl has been roasted, 
 it may be sent to table when just on .tte point 
 of boiling; but if only partly cooked before, 
 allow it to simmer from twenty to twenty-five 
 minutes. Many additional sauces may be used, 
 and the juice of a lime or Seville orange pressed 
 into it before serving; but care should be taken 
 that no strong flavour of any particular sauce 
 predominates. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 BURMESE CROUTES. 
 
 Wash a quarter of a pound of rice, throw it 
 into plenty of fast-boiling salted water, and let 
 it boil until it is quite soft. Then drain the 
 rice well and dry it on a clean cloth. Melt one 
 ounce of butter in a saucepan, slice two small 
 tomatoes thinly, and add them, together with 
 a tea-spoonful of curry powder, and cook gently 
 for ten minutes. Then add one ounce of grated 
 Parmesan cheese, the boiled rice, a table-spoon- 
 ful of Worcester sauce, and salt and pepper. 
 Mix all thoroughly, and make very hot. Take 
 some small water biscuits, make them hot in the 
 oven, pile the mixture on them, sprinkle a little 
 chopped truffle over each, and serve. Probable 
 cost. Is. 
 BURNET. 
 
 This aromatic herb is used in salads, and 
 when combined with tarragon, chives, and cher- 
 vil, it forms the French "ravigote." Formerly, 
 it was one of the flavouring ingredients in claret 
 cup, its leaves when bruised giving forth the 
 fragrance of fresh-cut cucumber. 
 BURNT ALMONDS. 
 
 (See AiMONDS, Bubnt.) 
 BUTTER (k I'Espagnol). 
 
 Put half an ounce of isinglass, one glassful of 
 tose-water, and six bitter almonds, blanched 
 
 and sliced, into an enamelled saucepan, and let 
 it stand near the fire for an hour, or until the 
 isinglass is dissolved and the flavour extracted 
 from the almonds. Add, by degrees and very 
 carefully, half a pint of cream mixed with the 
 yolks of three well-beaten eggs. Sweeten to 
 taste, and stir it well over a slow fire until it 
 thickens. Remove it from the fire, and con- 
 tinue to stir until nearly cold, and put it into a 
 mould well wetted with rose-water. Time to 
 thicken, about ten minutes. Probable cost for 
 one pint mould, 2s. 
 BUTTER (4 la Mattre d'Hdtel). 
 
 Wash some parsley, pick it from the stems, 
 and chop it small. After chopping, wash it 
 again, by putting it in the corner of a, cloth, 
 dipping this in cold water, and wringing it dry. 
 This second washing is intended to remove the 
 acrid taste which is so often objectionable in 
 raw parsley. Put the parsley on a plate with 
 its bulk in fresh butter, a little pepper and salt, 
 and two or three drops of lemon-juice. Work 
 all together with the point of a knife, and be 
 careful to mix it in a cool place, and also not 
 to work it too much, or it will oil. It should 
 be made for immediate use. Sometimes a green 
 onion chopped small is added. Any dish with 
 which this butter is served is named " a la Maitre 
 d'Hotel." 
 BUTTER, BROWN. 
 
 Melt six ounces of butter in a stewpan over 
 the fire until it becomes of a brown colour, and 
 then allow it to become cold. Take another 
 stewpan, and put into it a cupful of vinegar 
 with pepper, which reduce one-third by boiling. 
 When the butter is cold, add it to the vinegar 
 and pepper, stir all up well, and warm it over 
 the fire, care being taken that it is not allowed 
 to boil, ilf the butter is not cool before adding 
 it to the vinegar it will spurt over the sides of 
 the vessel. As the usual taste of the butter is 
 entirely destroyed by the heat to which it ia 
 subjected, it will be found that an article of 
 the cheapest kind will answer for this purpose 
 as well as the best. 
 
 BUTTER, BROWN (German method). 
 
 Take any quantity of butter required to be 
 browned, and put it into an iron. saucepan over 
 a slow fire. Stir until it assumes the colour 
 wanted, taking care that it does not burn. What 
 is required to be dipped in this brown butter 
 should be jjrepared beforehand, and dipped just 
 before serving. Time, about ten minutes. 
 
 BUTTER, BURNT SAUCE. 
 
 Brown two ounces of butter in a frying-pan; 
 stir until it is of a good colour, then add a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, a very little cayenne pepper, 
 and two table-spoonfuls of hot vinegar. This 
 sauce is recommended by Dr. Kitchener as ex- 
 cellent to serve over poached eggs or for broiled 
 fish. Probable cost, 4d. 
 
 BUTTER, CLARIFIED. 
 
 Melt some butter in a perfectly clean sauce- 
 pan; remove the scum, etc., which will rise to 
 the top, and let it stand by the side of the fire 
 for all impurities to sink to the bottom. Strain 
 it carefully through a sieve, leaving the sedi- 
 ment at the bottom of the saucepan. Butter 
 should be clarified before it is used to cover 
 
BUT 
 
 85 
 
 BUT 
 
 potted meats, etc. When it is hot it may be 
 used instead of olive-oil, and is liked better than 
 oil by many cooks, both for salads and for 
 other purposes. Time to melt, about three 
 minutes. 
 
 BUTTER CLARIFIED (another way). 
 
 Dissolve the butter before the fire, and have 
 ready a clean jar in which to pour it. There is 
 much waste in straining clarified butter, and 
 this is not necessary if it be stirred once or 
 twice whilst melting, then allowed to stand and 
 carefully poured into the jar, so as to leave the 
 sediment behind. Tie it down securely to keep 
 it from the air. 
 
 BUTTER, CREAMED. 
 
 Cut the butter in pieces or slices and drain 
 the water well from it ; soften it slightly before 
 the fire if it is hard (not else), and then with the 
 back of a strong wooden spoon beat it until 
 it resembles thick cream. For large rich pastry. 
 
 BUTTER, FAIRY. 
 
 Blanch and pound two ounces of sweet 
 almonds, adding a little orange-flower water. 
 Wash a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and 
 beat it to a paste with six yolks of hard boiled 
 eggs, a little grated lemon-peel, and sifted loaf 
 sugar. Mix all together with a wooden spoon, 
 and work it through a colander. Serve it, on 
 biscuit soaked in wine, piled up very high. 
 Probable cost, without wine. Is. 6d. 
 
 BUTTER FOR COLD DISHES. 
 
 Pound the folio wing' ingredients in a mortar, 
 and reduce them to a smooth paste : — One clove 
 of garlic, six hard boiled yolks of eggs, a, spoon- 
 ful of capers, and a seasoning of mace and all- 
 spice; moisten with a little tarragon vinegar 
 and a glassful of salad-oil, and then add eight 
 ounces of butter, with spinach-juice enough to 
 make the butter green. Pound all till very 
 smooth, and set it on ice to get firm, when it 
 may be used for the decoration of cold meats, 
 fish, salads, etc. Probable cost. Is. 8d. to 2s., 
 according to the price of butter. 
 
 BUTTER, MELTED. 
 
 Mix half an ounce of flour smoothly with an 
 ounce of butter melted in a saucepan. Add a 
 little salt and half a pint of cold water. Stir 
 the sauce, let it boil for three minutes, and it is 
 ready. For a detailed description of the best 
 way of making good melted butter, see Princi- 
 ples or COOKEBT. 
 
 BUTTER, MELTED ranother way). 
 
 Take a piece of butter the size of a hen's egg, 
 cut it into three or four slices, and work in as 
 much of a dessert-spoonful of flour as the but- 
 ter will take up. Put this into a saucepan with 
 three-quarters of a pint of cold water, keep 
 stirring in one direction as the butter melts, 
 and dust in what remains of the flour. When 
 they are well mixed, smooth, and the sauce 
 boils up, it is ready for serving. Or the li^mp 
 of butter may be simply put in the saucepan, 
 then mixed with flour to form a paste, and have 
 cold water added to make it of the right con- 
 sistency. When this method is adopted the 
 sauce must be stirred till it boils. Good melted 
 butter, even if smooth, should not be too thick 
 or pasty. It will acquire that condition by 
 
 being kept waiting too long at the side of the 
 stove. In that case it can easily be thinned by 
 the addition of more butter and a little warm 
 water. 
 
 BUTTER PRESERVED WITH HONEY. 
 
 Wash and press the butter until it is quite 
 free from milk. Put it in a jar, and place it in 
 a pan of boiling water. When clarified, and 
 just before boiling, remove it from the water to 
 a cool place; take off the scum, and work it 
 up in the proportion of two ounces of honey to 
 every two pounds of butter. This mode of pre- 
 paration will be found very convenient where 
 butter is eaten with sweet dishes. It will keep 
 as long as salted butter if the air be properly 
 excluded from it. 
 
 BUTTER, RAVICOTE (k la Gouffe) 
 
 This butter is composed of the following in- 
 gredients, pounded together in a mortar: — 
 First, blanch in boiling water for two minutes, 
 one pound of herbs — tarragon, mixed chervil, 
 burnet, chives, and cress — then press out the 
 water by squeezing them in a cloth. Put them, 
 with half a dozen well-mashed anchovies, andthe 
 same number of hard boiled eggs, into a mortar, 
 add a piece of garlic (about the size of a pea), a 
 seasoning of salt and pepper, two ounces of 
 gherkins, and two ounces of capers; these last 
 should be well squeezed from the vinegar. When 
 v/eli pounded and smoothed through a sieve they 
 are to be mixed with two pounds of butter, two 
 table-spoonfuls of oil, and one of tarragon vine- 
 gar, and again pounded and mixed for use. 
 
 BUTTER, SALTED (Scottish method). 
 
 Put the butter into a tub of clean water, press 
 it thoroughly with the hand or a broad butter- 
 beater until the water is entirely removed. Lay 
 it out on a board and sprinkle it with salt, an 
 ounce to every three pounds of butter. Work 
 and beat it well. Then make a brine strong 
 enough to float an egg; add two ounces of loaf 
 sugar, and boil it; when quite cold, put some 
 of this prepared pickle to the butter, and press 
 and squeeze off the water. If it does not come 
 off clear, repeat the washing in fresh pickle. 
 The kit or tub for storing is filled up within two 
 inches of the top with butter, the pickle thrown 
 on it, and a clean linen cloth over all. The lid 
 of the kit must then be well secured. 
 
 BUTTER SAUCE. 
 
 Season a cupful of flour with salt, pepper, nut- 
 meg, and cloves. Mix it with some water into 
 a paste, and work in a piece of butter about the 
 size of an egg. Put the thin paste into a pan 
 over the fire, and boil it for a quarter of an 
 hour, then take it off, and add some fresh butter 
 in small portions at a time, continually stirring 
 the contents to prevent the butter from rising 
 to the surface. Afterwards add some vinegar 
 and mix thoroughly. This sauce is used with 
 fish and boiled vegetables. {See also Melted 
 
 BUTTEE.) I 
 
 BUTTER SAUCE, OR OILED BUTTER. 
 
 Take as much fresh butter as will be wanted, 
 and melt it, but do not let it brown. Skim it, 
 pour it out, let it rest a minute, then drain it 
 from the curd at the bottom, add salt, and 
 serve. This simple sauce is quickly made, and 
 is generally much liked. 
 
BUT 
 
 86 
 
 CAB 
 
 BUTTER SCONES. 
 
 Take a pint of thin cream, salt it to taste, and 
 stir it into flour enough to make a dough of the 
 proper consistency. Knead well, roll out thin, 
 and form into acones; prick them with a fork, 
 and bake over a clear fire on a griddle. Butter 
 should be served with them; they are excellent 
 for breakfast or tea. 
 
 BUTTER SEASONED WITH PEPPER. 
 
 Work up some butter with powdered pepper, 
 and serve as soon as prepared. Butter and 
 other spices may be prepared in a similar 
 manner. 
 BUTTER, TO KEEP, IN SUMMER. 
 
 Place the butter-dish in a basin containing 
 water to within two inches of the top of the 
 former. Throw over it a piece of muslin, which 
 has been well wetted, but wrung to prevent any 
 moisture dripping into the butter, and allow 
 the ends to tall into the water. Or, stand the 
 butter-dish on a stone floor and turn over it a 
 large flower-pot around which has been tied a 
 woollen cloth previously well soaked in water. 
 In this latter plan all that is needed is to keep 
 the woollen cloth moist ; in the former, to 
 change the water every day, and rinse the 
 muslin. 
 BUTTER, TO PRESERVE, WITHOUT SALT. 
 
 Dissolve the butter very gently in a clean pan 
 over the fire. All the watery particles will 
 evaporate, and the curd — which is the cause of 
 the butter becoming rancid — will fall to the 
 bottom. It should not boil. Pour the butter 
 into a clean vessel, keeping but the sediment, 
 and excluding the air by means of a bladder 
 tied over the top. When cool it resembles lard. 
 It will also lose some of its flavour, but it is 
 superior to salt butter for culinary uses, and 
 especially for pastry. 
 
 BUTTERED MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Remove the stems from young mushrooms, 
 and rub the tops with salt, then rinse in salted 
 watet, and dry in a cloth. Put two ounces of 
 fresh butter into a stewpan, over a very slow 
 fire, and when the butter is of a beautiful pale 
 brown, put in the mushrooms, and shake the 
 pan to keep them from burning and the butter 
 from oiling. ' When tender, serve them, ar- 
 ranged high on the dish, with their own gravy. 
 It is an excellent relish, and requires no sauce. 
 BUTTERED TOAST. 
 
 Cut slices rather more than a quarter of an 
 inch thick, from a stale loaf, and toast them on 
 both sides before a clear, bright fire ; have a hot 
 plate ready to put them on, and butter accord- 
 ing to taste. Some like both sides buttered. 
 Pare off the crusts, cover up, and serve hot. 
 For dry toast the slices should be cut thin, and 
 held at a distance from the fire to make them 
 crisp. A little movement of the hand will help 
 this. 
 
 BUTTERMILK CAKES. 
 
 Take one pint of buttermilk, and stir into it 
 as much flour as will form a dough, with one 
 table-spoonful of dissolved carbonate of am- 
 monia. Roll the dough out in sheets, cut the 
 cakes, and bake them in a moderate oven. , The 
 carbonate of ammonia may be obtained at any 
 of the druggists; it is the common smelling- 
 
 salts, without any of the. aromatic drugs. It 
 never imparts any taste to the food, as the heat 
 disengages the carbonic acid gas and the 
 ammonia. 
 
 BUTTERMILK SCONES OR BREAD. 
 
 To one pound of flour add one tea-spoonful of 
 salt ; mix fifty grains of carbonate of soda with 
 a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, and rub them 
 into the flour. When they are well blended 
 together, mix the flour into a stiff dough with 
 some buttermilk— or milk will do — but no time 
 should be lost in putting it into the oven, or 
 the bread will be heavy. It requires a well- 
 heated oven, but not a strong one. Time to 
 bake, about three-quarters of an hour. Prob- 
 able cost, from 3d. to 4d. Sufiicient for a small 
 loaf. 
 
 CABBAGE (a la Bourgeoise). 
 
 Clean and boil a whole cabbage for fifteen 
 minutes ; lay it in cold water ; when cold take it 
 out and squeeze it dry; open the leaves care- 
 fully, and between each put a little veal force- 
 meat; tie all together with packthread, and 
 stew it in as much broth as will cover the cab- 
 bage, along with salt, pepper, sweet herbs, a 
 bay leaf, an onion, carrot, parsley, and two or 
 three cloves. When stewed enough press it 
 gently with a clean cloth, remove the packr 
 thread, cut it in half, and serve with hot brown 
 Spanish sauce poured over it. 
 CABBAGE (k la Lilloise). 
 
 Wash and drain a large cabbage, and, after 
 removing the stalk, cut it into pieces about the 
 size of a walnut. Melt two ounces of butter in 
 a saucepan, and fry in it for a minute or two a 
 small tea-spoonful of finely-chopped onion. Add 
 tne cabbage, with pepper, salt, and a little 
 grated nutmeg. Cook it over a slow fire, and 
 turn it frequently to prevent burning. Place on 
 a hot dish and serve. Time to prepare, fifteen 
 minutes. Probable cost, 4d. or 5d. Sufficient 
 for four persons. 
 CABBAGE AND BACON. 
 
 Boil a piece of pickled pork until it is about 
 three-quarters cooked. Then take it out of the 
 water, drain it, and place two or three rashers of 
 bacon in the saucepan. Lay on these a cabbage 
 which has been thoroughly washed and cut into 
 quarters, and put the pork over the cabbage. 
 Cover the whole with nicely-flavoured stock; 
 add pepper, nutmeg, and parsley, but no salt, 
 as it will most likely be found there is sufficient 
 in the bacon and stock. Simmer gently until 
 the cabbage is cooked. Place the vegetables 
 on a hot dish with the pork in the midst of 
 them ; thicken the gravy, and pour it over the 
 whole. Time to boil the cabbage, twenty 
 minutes. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 CABBAGE, BOILED. 
 
 Cut off the stalk, remove the faded outer 
 leaves, and halve, or, if large, quarter the cab- 
 bages. Wash them thoroughly, and lay them 
 for a few minutes in water to which a table- 
 spoonful of vinegar has been added, for the pur- 
 pose of destroying any insects that may be 
 present. Drain them in a colander. Put them 
 in a large saucepan of boiling water, to which a 
 table-spoonful of salt and a very small piece of 
 
CAB 
 
 87 
 
 CAB 
 
 8oda have been added, and let them 1)011 quickly 
 for six minutes, pressing them down two or 
 three times to keep them well under the water. 
 Then take them out and throw them into another 
 saucepan prepared just like the first. Let them 
 boil ten minutes, and repeat the process, letting 
 them boil the third time until tender. Serve aS 
 hot as possible, with melted butter or white 
 sauce poured Over them. Time : small summer 
 cabbage, twenty minutes or more ; large cab- 
 bage, from half to three-quarters of an hour. 
 Sufficient, one small cabbage for two persons. 
 
 CABBAGE, BOILED (another way). 
 
 Put into a saucepan a piece of rind of bacon, 
 a little lard, salt, and pepper, and when the 
 cabbage has been well washed and dried, put it 
 into the saucepan over the fire until the fat has 
 become absorbed. Then cover the cabbage with 
 plain stock, or part Btock and water, and let it 
 gradually boil till tender. Drain off all the 
 liquor, and put the cabbage back into the empty 
 saucepan, let it thoroughly heat up again with 
 a small piece of butter or lard, and serve verv 
 hot. ' 
 
 CABBAGE CAKE. 
 
 Boil a large cabbage till it is quite tender. 
 Drain the water from it, and chop it small. 
 Butter the inside of a pie-dish, and dust it with 
 finely-grated bread-crumbs. Place on these a 
 layer of chopped cabbage about an inch thick, 
 then a layer of cold beef or mutton finely minced 
 and flavoured ; repeat until the pie-dish is nearly 
 full, finishing with a layer of cabbage. Lay 
 three or four rashers of bacon over it, and put 
 the dish in a moderate oven^ When it is heated 
 thoroughly, and the bacon cooked, turn it out 
 as from a mould, and ppur good brown gravy 
 round it. Time to cook, half an hour. Prob- 
 able cost, without the cold meat, 2d. or 3d. 
 Sufficient, a small pie-dish full for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 CABBAGE, CREAMED. 
 
 Thoroughly cleanse two youiig cabbages, and 
 boil them until quite soft.. Take them out, 
 drain, and press them between two hot plates 
 until they are dry, when they may be slightly 
 chopped. Melt in a stewpan a piece of butter 
 the size of an egg, add pepper and salt, then put 
 in the cabbage, and turn it about for two or 
 three minutes. When it is thoroughly heated, 
 dredge a table-spoonful of flour over it, and 
 mix with it very gradually a cupful of" milk or 
 cream. Serve on a hot dish. Time, half an 
 hour. Probable cost. Id. or 2d. each. Suf- 
 ficient for three or four persons. 
 
 CABBAGE PUDDING. 
 
 Scald one or more nice tender cabbages ; 
 bruise, and season with a little mace or nutmeg, 
 ginger, pepper, and salt; put in some green 
 gooseberries or barberries, and a few large 
 spoonfuls of cold boiled rice or of bread-crumbs ; 
 add some butter in small pieces ; mix thoroughly 
 with the yolks of four eggs well beaten. Wrap 
 the whole up in a large cabbage leaf, tie it in a 
 cloth, and boil it an hour. 
 
 CABBAGE, RED, PICKLED. 
 
 The cabbage should not be cut until it has 
 been sliyhtlv frost-bitten. Choose a firm, hard 
 
 cabbage. Remove the outer leaves, and cut it as 
 finely as possible in cross slices. The finer it is 
 cut the nicer will be the pickle. Put it in a 
 large shallow dish with a layer of salt spread 
 over it, and let it remain for twenty-four hours ; 
 then squeeze the purple juice thoroughly from 
 it, and place it in pickle-jars, strewing between 
 every handful a little black pepper and bruised 
 ginger. Fill the jars with cold vinegar, or 
 better still, vinegar which has been boiled and 
 allowed to become cold, and cork securely. It 
 is ready for use at once. The French vinegar 
 is the best for pickling. Probable cost of a 
 good-sized red cabbage, 4d. to 6d. 
 
 CABBAGE, RED, STEWED. 
 
 Prepare a large cabbage as if it were going to 
 be pickled. Melt two ounces of butter, or of 
 good beef dripping, in a saucepan, lay the 
 cabbage in it, and cover it with a cupful of 
 vinegar and a pint of nicely-flavoured stock. 
 When it is quite tender, season it with salt and 
 pepper, drain it, and lay it on a hot dish, and 
 arrange sausages round and over it. If pre- 
 ferred the cabbage may be pressed into a mould 
 and poached eggs served with it. It will warm 
 up again perfectly. Time, one hour. Probable 
 cost, 4d. or 6d. Sufficient, one large cabbage 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 CABBAGE, SAVOY, AND BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 
 
 Wash and pick off the outer leaves. Place 
 the vewgtables in ,a pan of boiling water, to 
 which has been added a handful of salt and a 
 very small piece of soda. Let them boil quickly 
 until tender. Drain the water from them, and 
 serve as hot as possible. Pepper slightly, and 
 spread a little butter over them. Send a little 
 melted , butter to the table with them, but not 
 on them. Savoys should be. drained from the 
 water, and may be pressed into the dish, and 
 cut in squares. The best way to keep greens a 
 good colour is to put them into the saucepan 
 when the water is boiling; keep them boiling 
 fast all the time ; , let them have plenty of room 
 and plenty of water; let them be uncovered, 
 and take them up as soon as they are cooked. 
 Time, ten minutes for sprouts, half an hour or 
 more for savoys. Probable cost, 2d. per pound. 
 Two pounds will be sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 CABBAGE SOUP. 
 
 Put two ounces of butter or good dripping 
 into a stewpan, and fry in it two sliced onions ; 
 brown the onions nicely. Pour on them two 
 quarts of flavoured stock, and add two pounds 
 of pickled pork, which must not be too salt. 
 Simmer gently for half an hour, and skim well. 
 Shred finely two small cabbages, two turnips, 
 two carrots, and a head of celery, and throw 
 them into the boiling liquor. When the vege- 
 tables are tender without falling to pieces, the 
 soup will be ready. Time to prepare, two hours. 
 Probable cost. Is. 2d. per quart. Sufficient for 
 six or seven persons. 
 
 CABBAGE, STUFFED. 
 
 Choose a good-sized firm young cabbage. 
 Wash it thoroughly, and lay it in water, to 
 which has been added a table-spoonful of vine- 
 gar. Let it remain for half an hour, then drain 
 it, cut off the stalk, and scoop out the heart, so 
 
CAB 
 
 88 
 
 CAK 
 
 as to make a space for the stuffing, which may 
 be made of sausage-meat, mixed with chestnuts 
 cut small, or any flavouring that may be pre- 
 ferred. Press the forcemeat into the cabbage, 
 cover it with leaves, which must be well tied on 
 with tape to prevent escape. Place the cab- 
 bage in a saucepan with some slices of bacon 
 above and below it, and cover the whole with 
 nicely-flavoured stock. Let it stew gently for 
 half an hour. Take out the cabbage, remove 
 the tape, place it on a hot dish, and strain the 
 gravy over it. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for 
 three or four persons. 
 
 CABBAGE, TO KEEP FRESH. 
 
 Have the cabbages cut with two or three 
 inches of stalk, of which the pith must be taken 
 out without injuring the rind. Hang the cab- 
 bages up by the Btalk, and fill the hollow with a 
 little fresh water every day. Cabbages will thus 
 keep fresh for four or five weeks. 
 
 CABBAGE WITH RICE. 
 
 Wash some rice, and let it simmer in hot 
 water, vrith a cabbage sliced up, for about an 
 hour; then strain it off and put the rice and 
 cabbage in a stewpan with some butter, a little 
 pepper and salt, and about a quarter of a 
 grated nutmeg. Toss these about in the butter 
 for ten or fifteen minutes over the fire, but do 
 not let them turn colour; then add a small 
 quantity of water or stock, let them stew till 
 tender, then serve very hot with grated cheese 
 sprinkled over the top. 
 
 CABINET PUDDING, BOILED. 
 
 Put a pint of new milk into a saucepan with 
 two table-spoonfuls of sugar and the rind of a 
 lemon. Let it nearly boil, to extract the fiavour 
 of the lemon, then add to it four well-beaten 
 eggs. Butter a mould rather thickly, and orna- 
 ment it with stoned raisins, candied peel, or in 
 any other way ; then fill it with alternate layers 
 of sliced sponge finger biscuits and crushed 
 latafias. Put in the biscuits lightly, so as not 
 to disturb the ornamentation. When the mould 
 is nearly full, and it is time to steam the pud- 
 ding, pour the cold custard gradually over the 
 cake. Put a piece of buttered writing paper 
 over it, place it in a saucepan, and steam it 
 gently for an hour. Serve with wine sauce. 
 Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 CABINET PUDDING, COLD. 
 
 Put half an ounce of gelatine, which has been 
 previously soaked in two table-spoonfuls of 
 water, into a saucepan with a pint of new milk, 
 the rind of a lemon, and two table-spoonfuls of 
 sugar, and boil all together, stirring the liquid 
 until the gelatine is dissolved. Well oil a plain 
 round mould, and fill it with alternate layers of 
 candied fruits, crumbled macaroons, and Savoy 
 biscuits. Add a little brandy, fill the mould 
 with the milk, and let it stand in a cool place 
 until firm. Time to set, five or six hours. 
 Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 CABINET PUDDING, PLAIN. 
 
 Butter a plain round mould; then fill it with 
 alternate layers of raisins, bread and butter 
 without crust, sugar, and a little grated nut- 
 meg. Pour over it a pint of new milk mixed 
 
 with two well-beaten eggs ; flavour and sweeten. 
 Allow it to soak for half an hour; then place a 
 plate on the top, and steam it for one hour. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable 
 cost, lOd. 
 CABINET PUDDING, RICH. 
 
 Butter a plain round mould ; fill it with alter- 
 nate layers of dried apricots or candied fruits 
 of any kind, and crumbled macaroon and Savoy 
 biscuits. Pour a wine-glassful of sherry or 
 brandy over this ; then make a custard of a pint 
 of new milk and the well-beaten yolks of four 
 eggs. When this is quite cold, pour it gently 
 and very gradually over the biscuits. Cover the 
 top of the mould with buttered paper, put it in 
 a saucepan, and allow it to steam for one hour. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable^ 
 cost, 2s. 
 
 CAFi AU UAIT. .... 
 
 Make some strong clear coffee. Pour it into 
 the cup with an equal quantity of boiling milk, 
 and sweeten according to taste. This is the 
 coffee which is served in Prance for breakfast, 
 and it is both palatable and nutritious. Allow 
 one breakfast-cupful for each person. Probable 
 cost, 4d. per cup. 
 
 CAFi NOIR. 
 
 This is the coffee which is handed round in 
 small cups after dessert in France. It is sweet- 
 ened, but neither milk nor cream is added. It 
 should be made exceedingly strong, and will be 
 found useful in warding off the somnolency 
 which is often the first result of a good dinner. 
 It should be made in the same way as break- 
 fast coffee, allowing a cupful of freshly-ground 
 coffee for every four cupfuls of boiling water. 
 Probable cost, 4d. per cup. A small cupful will 
 be sufficient for each person. 
 
 CAKES, GENERAL REMARKS ON. 
 
 In making cakes, great care should' be taken 
 that everything which is used should be per- 
 fectly dry, as dampness in the materials is very 
 likely to produce heaviness in the cake. It is 
 always best to have each ingredient properly 
 prepared before beginning to mix the cake. 
 
 Currants should be put into a colander and 
 cold water poured over them two or three times, 
 then spread upon a dish and carefully looked 
 over, so that any little pieces of stone or stalk 
 may be removed. The dish should then be 
 placed before the fire, and the currants turned 
 over frequently until they are quite dry. 
 
 Butter should be laid in cold water before it 
 is used, and, if salt, should be washed in several 
 waters. It should be beaten with a wooden 
 spoon in a bowl till it is reduced to a cream, 
 pouring off the water until no more is left. 
 
 Flour. — The flour for cakes should be of the 
 best quality. It should be weighed after it is 
 sifted and dried. 
 
 Eygs. — Each egg should always be broken 
 into a cup before it is put to the others, as this 
 will prevent a bad one spoiling the rest. The 
 yolks and whites should be separated, the specks 
 removed, and then all the yolks transferred to 
 one bowl and the whites to another. The yolks 
 may be beaten with a fork till they are light and 
 frothy, but the whites must be whisked till they 
 are one solid froth, and no liquor remains at the 
 
CAK 
 
 89 
 
 CAL 
 
 bottom of the bowl. The eggs should be put in 
 a, cool place till required for use. When the 
 whites only are to be used, the yolks, if un- 
 broken, and kept covered, will remain good for 
 three or four days. 
 
 Sugar. — ^Loaf sugar is the best to use for 
 cakes ; it should be pounded and sifted. 
 
 Lemon. — ^Peel should be cut very thin, as the 
 white, or inner side, will impart a bitter flavour 
 to the cakes. 
 
 Almonds for cakes should be blanched by 
 being put into boiling water, and when they 
 have been in for a few minutes the skin should 
 be taken off and the almonds thrown into cold 
 water to preserve the colour. If they are 
 pounded, a few drops of water, rose-water, or 
 white of egg should be added every two or 
 three minutes, to prevent them oiling. If they 
 are not pounded they should be cut into thin 
 slices or divided lengthwise. 
 
 Milk. — Swiss condensed milk will be found to 
 be excellent for cakes when either cream or milk 
 is wanted; but when it is used less sugar will 
 be required. 
 
 Ymst. — ^When yeast is used for cakes, less 
 butter and eggs are required. 
 
 Baking Powder. — Nearly all plain cakes will 
 be made lighter by the addition of a little 
 baking powder. 
 
 Moulds for cakes should be thickly buttered, 
 and it is a good plan to place some well-oiled 
 paper between the mould and the cake round 
 the inner edge. 
 
 Baking. — Small cakes require a quick oven 
 when they are first put in, to make them rise, 
 but the heat should not be increased after they 
 have begun to bake. Large cakes should be 
 put into a moderate oven, in order that they 
 may be well baked in the middle before they 
 are overdone on the outside. In order to ascer- 
 tain if a cake' is sufBciently baked, insert a 
 skewer or knitting-needle into the centre of it, 
 and if it comes out perfectly clean, the cake is 
 BufBciently ready, but if anything is sticking to 
 it, the cake must be put back into the oven at 
 once. Cakes should be gently turned out of the 
 mould when ready, placed on the top of the 
 oven to dry, then laid on their sides to cool. 
 They should be kept in a cool place, and in tin 
 canisters, closely covered. A cake keeps better 
 when made without yeast. 
 
 CAKE, CHEAP AND WHOLESOME. 
 
 When bread is made at home, it is easy to 
 make a good wholesome cake from the dough, 
 of which a little must be taken out of the bowl 
 after it has begun to rise. Allow four ounces 
 of butter, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, 
 A little grated nutmeg, some chopped lemon- 
 rind, or candied peel, and either a quarter of a 
 pound of currants or a few bruised caraway- 
 seeds to one quartern of dough. Mix these in- 
 gredients thoroughly, dredge a little flour over 
 them, and place the bowl near the fire, covering 
 it with a thick cloth. When well risen, put it 
 into buttered tins and bake immediately in a 
 moderately-heated oven. One quartern of 
 dough will be enough for a good-sized cake. 
 
 CAKE, COMMON. 
 
 Mix two and a half pounds of flour with half a 
 pound of brown sugar. Stir in a tea-cupful of 
 
 good yeast and half a pint of lukewarm milt. 
 Einead these well together, and set the dough 
 near the fire to rise. When it rises, add half a 
 pound of picked currants, or two tea-spoonfuls 
 of caraway-seeds, and half a pound of melted 
 butter in another half pint of milk. Knead 
 again, and let the mixture rise once more. Put 
 it into tins, and bake in a moderate oven. Time 
 to bake, about an hour. The above ingredients 
 will be suflicient for two large cakes. Probable 
 cost, 8d. each. 
 CAKE, DIET BREAD. 
 
 Beat four eggB, then add to them a quarter of 
 a pound of dried flour, and half a pound of loaf 
 sugar, with six drops of almond flavouring. 
 When these are well mixed together, place them 
 near the fire to warm, then pour into a well- 
 buttered mould, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 Time, to bake, half an hour. Sufficient for a 
 small mould. Probable cost, 7d. 
 CAKES. 
 
 Directions for making a large variety of cakes 
 will be found under their respective headings, 
 for which see classified index at end of volume. 
 CALEDONIAN CREAM. 
 
 Mix thoroughly two ounces of raspberry jam, 
 two ounces of red currant jelly, and two ounces 
 of finely-powdered sugar, with the whites of two 
 eggs' which have been beaten to a firm froth. 
 Beat them for three-quarters of an hour. This 
 makes a very pretty cream,inexpensive and good. 
 Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for a small dish. 
 CALF'S BRAINS (k la Fran^aise). 
 
 Fry eighteen button onions to a light brown 
 in butter, stir in a table-spoonful of flour, and 
 then add equal quantities of broth and French 
 red wine, a quarter of a pint or more of each, 
 put in a little salt and pepper, and simmer half 
 an hour. Put the brains into this, remembering 
 first to wash and skin them; previous to which, 
 they should have been boiled for ten minutes 
 in salted water mixed with a tea-spoonful of 
 vinegar, and laid in cold water until wanted. 
 Add a dozen small mushrooms, and simmer 
 eight or ten minutes until they are done. Serve 
 with the sauce, and garnish with the onions 
 and mushrooms. Time to boil the sauce, half 
 an hour. 
 CALF'S BRAINS (k la Maitre d'Hotel). 
 
 Eemove the skin and the fibres from two lots 
 of calves' brains. Wash them several times im 
 cold water, then place them in boiling water, 
 adding a table-spoonful of vinegar, a little salt, 
 and a small piece of butter. Let them boil for 
 about half an hour, then remove and divide 
 them. Cut some thin slices of stale bread into 
 rounds, fry them in boiling butter or oil, place 
 the brains on the bread, and pour over the whole 
 maitre d'hStel sauce. Probable cost of the. 
 calf's head (the brain is not sold without), 5s. 
 to 9s. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 CALF'S BRAINS (en Matelote). 
 
 Wash the brains in several waters, remove the 
 skin, and boil them in salt and water, with a 
 little vinegar in it, for ton minutes. Take them 
 out and lay them in cold water until they are 
 wanted. Put a piece of butter the size of a 
 large egg into a saucepan, let it melt, mix 
 smoothly with it a tea-spoonful of flour. Put 
 
CAL 
 
 90 
 
 CAL 
 
 to this three small onions sliced, then add a 
 table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a clove, a 
 ■faay-leaf, half a pint of stock, and a glass of 
 ■white wine. When these are mixed thoroughly 
 together, put the brains with them, and let them 
 stew gently until they are done. Time to stew, 
 a quarter of an hour. Sufficient for two or three 
 persons. 
 
 CALF'S BRAINS AND TONGUE. 
 
 Remove the skin and the fibres, and wash the 
 brains in several waters. Boil them in salt and 
 water, and drain and chop them. Put them in a 
 saucepan with half a cupful of melted butter, a 
 tea-spoonful of parsley which has been boiled 
 and chopped, a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice, and 
 a little salt and cayenne pepper. Skin and trim 
 the boiled tongue, place it in the middle of the 
 dish, and pour the sauce round it. Time to 
 boil the brains, a quarter of an hour. The brains 
 of one head will serve for a tongue. 
 
 CALF'S BRAINS, FRIED. 
 
 Wash the brains, pick them clean, and let 
 them lie in cold water for an hour. Boil them 
 in water with a little vinegar for ten minutes, 
 cool, and cut them into slices. Drain and dip 
 them into a batter made with two table-spoon- 
 fuls of baked flour, two eggs, and a quarter of 
 a pint of cream; this batter should be well 
 beaten for fifteen minutes before it is used. 
 Half fill an iron saucepan with frying fat, make 
 this hot, then fry each piece, well dipped in 
 batter, till it is a pale brown colour. Send them 
 to table with a bunch of fried parsley in the 
 centre of the dish, and the slices of brains round 
 it. They should be served very hot. Time, 
 fifteen minutes to fry. 
 
 CALF'S CHITTERLINGS, FRAISE, OR CROW. 
 
 These are the different names given to the fat 
 round the stomach of the calf, and in some parts 
 they form a favourite dish. They may be 
 served in two or three ways. First wash and 
 cleanse them thoroughly. Lay them in salt and 
 water for a night, place them in boiling water 
 for a quarter of an hour, then dip into cold 
 water, and drain them. Cut them into small 
 pieces, and put them into a saucepan with a 
 little stock, two or three slices of bacon, an 
 onion, a bay-leaf, and salt and pepper. Let 
 them simmer gently, and when done place them 
 on a hot dish, reduce the gravy, thicken it with 
 a little flour, add vinegar and sliced cucumber, 
 and serve as a sauce. Or, prepare as above. - 
 After being boiled a quarter of an hour, dip the 
 pieces into a little batter, and fry them in 
 boiling dripping until they are a light brown, 
 then serve with fried parsley. Or, prepare as 
 above. After being boiled for a quarter of an 
 hour rub them over with butter, and bake in a 
 good oven. 
 
 CALF'S EARS AND TOMATO SAUCE. 
 
 Scald the ears for some minutes, dry them, 
 and singe the hair off carefully. Rub them well 
 with lemon juice, and stew in some stock for 
 about two hours. When tender, scrape off any 
 soft skin with the back of a knife. Lay them 
 in a marinade of oil, vinegar, and chopped 
 parsley and onions, for half an hour, and re- 
 heat in a pint of tomato sauce, to which the 
 marinade may be added if desired. 
 
 CALF'S FEET. 
 
 Calf's feet are generally prepared for boiling 
 by the butcher; but if this is not done, they 
 should be put into water just upon the point of 
 boiling, and kept in it for two or three minutes, 
 when the hair must be scraped off, the hoofs 
 knocked off, the claws split, and the fat that 
 is between them taken away. They must then 
 be washed with scrupulous care and nicety. 
 Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. each. 
 
 CALF'S FEET AND SAUCE. 
 
 Thoroughly cleanse two calf's feet ; place them 
 in a saucepan, and pour over them three pints of 
 cold water. Let them simmer gently for four 
 hours, then split them in halves, and trim 
 nicely, cut them into neat pieces, and drain the 
 water from them. Take a cupful of finely- 
 grated bread-crumbs, mix with them a small 
 onion well chopped, a little grated nutmeg, a 
 salt-spoonful of salt, and a third of a salt-spoon- 
 ful of pepper. Dip the pieces into egg, then 
 into the crumbs, and fry them in boiling oil or 
 butter until nicely browned. Put them in the 
 middle of a hot dish, with a sauce round them 
 made as follows. Chop finely three large 
 onions, three large mushrooms, and three 
 tomatoes. Put these into a saucepan with a 
 grain of powdered ginger, a quarter of a nutmeg 
 grated, a salt-spoonful of salt, the same of 
 mustard, a little cayenne, a small piece of sugar, 
 and a glassful of white wine. Simmer gently, 
 stirring all the time, till the onions are tender. 
 Time to stew the feet, four hours. Probable 
 cost, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 CALF'S FOOT (^ la Poulette). 
 
 Calf's feet which have been boiled for stock 
 may (if not too much cooked) be made into an 
 agreeable dish by serving them in a little pou- 
 lette sauce. Take out the bones, press the meat 
 till cold, and cut it into neat pieces. Put a 
 piece of butter the size of an egg into a sauce- 
 pan, let it melt, then add gradually a table- 
 spoonful of flour. Mix the paste thoroughly 
 with a wooden spoon for two or three minutes, 
 until it is quite smooth ; then dilute it with the 
 third of a pint of nicely-flavoured stock, and 
 keep on stirring for ten or fifteen minutes. Draw 
 the saucepan from the fire for a minute or two, 
 thicken the soup with the well-beaten yolks of 
 two eggs, and season with a little pepper and 
 salt. Put the pieces of calf's feet into the 
 sauce, let them become hot, without boiling, 
 stir in a little lemon-juice, and serve. Chopped 
 parsley, shallots, or mushrooms should be added 
 to this sauce. Sufficient for two feet. 
 
 CALF'S FOOT, BAKED OR STEWED. 
 
 Wash a calf's foot very carefully, and rub It 
 over with pepper, salt, and a little powdered 
 cinnamon. Place it in a saucepan or dish, and 
 cover it with a pint and a half of water. The 
 knuckle-bone of a ham, the end of a dried 
 tongue, or even a few pieces of beef may be 
 added, with a, little celery, an onion stuck with 
 four or five cloves, and a carrot. Le^ these 
 simmer either in the oven or on the fire for 
 three or four hours. In either case they must be 
 closely covered. When quite tender, take out 
 the bones, and ciit the meat into neat pieces. 
 
CAL 
 
 91 
 
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 Strain the gravy, skimming off the fat, add to 
 it a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and 
 thicken it with a dessert-spoonful of ground rice. 
 Let it boil up, then put in the pieces of meat, a 
 squeeze of lemon-juice, a glass of white wine, 
 and serve hot. Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. per 
 foot. One foot will be found sufficient for one 
 or two persons. 
 
 CALF'S FOOT, BOILED WITH PARSLEY AND 
 BUTTER. 
 
 Thoroughly clean two calf's feet, divide them 
 at the joint, and split the hoofs. Put three 
 rashers of bacon into a stewpan, with a piece 
 of butter the size of an egg, a large onion stuck 
 with five or six cloves, the juice of a lemon, and 
 a little salt and pepper. Care must be taken 
 not to put too much salt, as the bacon will 
 probably supply what is necessary. Lay the 
 leet on the bacon, and cover the whole with one 
 pint of stock. Let them simmer very gently 
 for three hours or more ; then take out the feet, 
 put them on a hot dish, and pour some parsley 
 and butter over them. (See Pakblet and 
 Butter.) 
 
 CALF'S FOOT BROTH. 
 
 Wash carefully one calf's foot, and put it into 
 a saucepan with three pints of water, the rind 
 of a lemon, a lump of sugar, and a salt-spoonful 
 of salt. If a knuckle-bone of a ham can be put 
 with it, it will be an improvement. Let these 
 simmer gently together until the liquid is re- 
 duced one half, skimming it very carefully from 
 time to time. Then pour it out, and let it 
 stand aside to get cold, so that the fat may be 
 entirely removed. When this has been done, 
 put it back into the saucepan, let it boil, add 
 the beaten yolks of two eggs, and stir the liquid 
 again over the fire for a few minutes until it 
 thickens; but on no account allow it to boil. 
 This is a very nourishing broth. If it is pre- 
 ferred, the calf's foot may be boiled in milk and 
 water. Tjme, three hours. Probable cost, one 
 calf's foot, 4d. to 8d. Sufficient for a pint and 
 a half of broth. 
 
 CALF'S FOOT, CURRIED. 
 
 Prepare two feet as in the last recipe, remove 
 the bones, and cut the meat into neatly-shaped 
 pieces. Put a piece of butter the size of a large 
 egg into a stewpan. Let it melt; slice into it 
 two large onions and a sour apple. Stir these 
 over the fire till soft, then rub then through a 
 sieve. Mix with the pulp a table-tpoonful of 
 curry paste, and also a little ground rice. Add, 
 gradually, sufficient of the liquid in which the 
 feet were boiled to moisten the whole without 
 making it too thin, put in the meat, the onions, 
 and pepper and salt to taste. Simmer all gently 
 together for a few minutes; then pile the curry 
 in the centre of a hot dish with a border of rice 
 round it. Time to boil the feet, four hours; 
 to simmer, quarter of an hour. Probable cost. 
 Is. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 CALF'S FOOT, FRIED. 
 
 A good dish may be made of two calf's feet 
 which have been boiled for stock, and taken out 
 while they are still firm. Remove the bones, 
 and when the flesh is cold, out it into small, 
 nicely-shaped pieces, which must be placed for 
 an hour in a pickle made with two table-spoon-. 
 
 fuls of tarragon vinegar, one table-spoonful of 
 oil, one bay-leaf, two pinches of salt, and one of 
 pepper. Turn them two or three times. Take 
 them out, drain them, dredge a little flour over 
 them, and fry, them in boiling butter or oil till 
 they are lightly browned. Put them on a hot 
 dish, and serve them with fried parsley. Prob- 
 able cost, 4d., without the calf's feet. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 CALF'S FOOT FRITTERS. 
 
 Prepare the calf's feet as in the last recipe, 
 but, before they are fried, lay each piece in a 
 light batter made thus. Pour a cupful of boil- 
 ing water over a piece of butter about the size 
 of a walnut, and when it is melted, add to it 
 half a pint of cold water. Stir this gradually 
 into four table-spoonfuls of fine flour, and mix 
 with it the yolks of two eggs and a little salt 
 and pepper. A few minutes before it is wanted, 
 add the well-whisked whites of the eggs. Half 
 fill a stewpan with frying fat, let this boil till 
 it is still, then fry in it the pieces of meat 
 covered with batter. Drain them from the fat, 
 pile them on a hot dish, and serve them with 
 pickled gherkins. Time to stand in the pickle, 
 one hour; to fry, ten minutes. This quantity 
 will suffice for four persons. Probable coat, 8d., 
 without the calf's feet. 
 
 CALF'S FOOT JELLY. 
 
 In order to obtain calf's foot jelly quite clear, 
 care should be taken, first, to mix the ingfre- 
 dients when they are cold ; and secondly, not to 
 stir the jelly after it has once boiled and risen 
 in the saucepan. Take a pint and a half of 
 calf's foot stock (see Calp's Foot Stock), and 
 be very particular that it is free from every 
 particle of fat and sediment. Put it into a 
 saucepan with the strained juice and thinly- 
 peeled rind of two large lemons, three table- 
 spoonfuls of pounded loaf sugar, a glass of 
 white wine, the whites and shells of four eggs 
 (the whites must be beaten, but not to a froth), 
 and half an ounce of clarified isinglass. Let 
 these stand for a few minutes; then put them 
 on a slow fire, and stir them a little until the 
 liquid boils and rises in the pan'; when this 
 point is reached the jelly should not be touched 
 again, except that the scum may be gently re- 
 moved as it rises. Let it boil for twenty min- 
 utes. Draw the jelly to the side of the fire, and 
 let it stand to settle twenty minutes longer. 
 Wring out the jelly-bag in hot water, and pour 
 the jelly through it. If it is not perfectly clear 
 (which, however, it can scarcely fail to be, if 
 attention has been paid to the directions given), 
 strain it two or three times until it is. Do not 
 keep it in a metal mould — that will be likely to 
 discolour it. It should be kept in a cool place, 
 and in summer will most likely require a little 
 ice round it. If the stock be very strong, the isin- 
 glass may be dispensed with, but it is always 
 safer to put a little with the jelly. When all 
 the liquid has run through the bag, an agree- 
 able and refreshing beverage may be obtainec 
 by pouring a little boiling water through it. 
 Sufficient for rather more than a quart. Prob- 
 able cost, without the sherry. Is. per pint. 
 
 CALF'S FOOT JELLY, APPLE. 
 
 Put a pint of apple juice into a saucepan with 
 a pint of clear calf's foot stock (see CaiiE'b Foot. 
 
CAL 
 
 92 
 
 CAL 
 
 Stock), the rind and juice of a lemon, a table- 
 spoonful of sugar, a small glass of brandy, and 
 the whites and pounded shells of three eggs. 
 Mix these well together, and let them boil 
 gently for fifteen minutes. Take the jelly from 
 the fire, let it stand to settle, and strain it 
 through a jelly-bag until quite clear ; then pour 
 it into a mould. If the stock is not very stiff, 
 add a little isinglass. Sufficient for two and 
 a half pints of jelly. Probable cost. Is. per 
 pint. 
 
 OALF'S FOOT JELLY, LEMON. 
 
 Mix a quart of strong calf's foot stock, clear 
 and free from fat and sediment, with a cupful 
 of strained lemon-juice and three-quarters of a 
 pound of loaf sugar, which has been rubbed on 
 the rind of two lemons. Put these into a sauce- 
 pan with the well-beaten whites and crushed 
 shells of five eggs. Proceed as for calf's foot 
 jelly. Time to boil, by the side of the fire, 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost. Is. 6d. per 
 pint. Sufficient, one pint and a half of jelly 
 for five or six people. 
 
 fcALF'S FOOT JELLY, MARASCHINO. 
 
 Take one quart of clear calf's foot stock. 
 Proceed according to the directions given for 
 making calf's foot jelly, remembering only to 
 omit the sherry, and to rub the rind of two 
 lemons on the sugar before it is added to the 
 stock. When it has run through the jelly-bag 
 knd is quite clear, add two glasses of maras- 
 chino to it, and pour a little of the jelly into a 
 mould; let it set, then fill the mould with 
 alternate layers of jelly, and either fresh straw- 
 berries or preserved peaches. Put it in a cool 
 place, and when it has set, turn it out of the 
 mould. Time to set, two hours with ice, ten or 
 twelve without. Probable cost. Is. per pint, 
 without the maraschino. A pint and a half mould 
 will be sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 CALF'S FOOT JELLY OF FOUR FRUITS. 
 
 Dissolve one pint of calf's foot apple jelly 
 (see Calt's Foot Apple Jelly), and pour about 
 a quarter of it into an earthenware mould; let 
 it nearly set, then arrange, as tastefully as 
 possible, fine fresh bunches, of white and red 
 currants, strawberries, cherries, raspberries, or 
 any fruit that can be had. If fresh fruits are 
 not in season, any fruits which have been pre- 
 served whole may be used instead, such as 
 peaches, plums, or apricots. Add the jelly and 
 the fruit gradually before more is put in. Set 
 it in a cool place, and when stiff, it may be 
 turned out. Probable cost, lOd. per ' pint 
 mould. Time to set, twelve, hours. {See Plate 2.) 
 
 CALF'S FOOT JELLY, ORANGE. 
 
 Put a quart of strong calf's foot stock into a 
 saucepan with a pint of the strained juice of 
 oranges, the juice of two lemons, a quarter of 
 a pound af sugar, on which the rinds of the 
 lemons have been rubbed, half an ounpe of 
 melted isinglass, and the whites and crushed 
 shells of five eggs. Proceed as for calf's foot 
 jelly. Three or four grains of saffron will im- 
 prove the appearance of the dish. If it is pre- 
 ferred, the mould may be filled with alternate 
 layers of jelly and quartered oranges, as 
 directed in the recipe for Calf's Foot Jelly, 
 Maraschino. Time to set, two hours with ice. 
 
 ten or twelve without it. Probable cost. Is. per 
 pint. Sufficient, a pint and a half mould for 
 five or six persons. 
 CALF'S FOOT MOULD. 
 
 A relishable breakfast dish may be made of 
 the meat of calf's feet after they have been 
 boiled for jelly, broth, stock, etc., if not over- 
 done. Take out all the bones, and cut the meat . 
 of one foot into small pieces, mixing with it the 
 juice and chopped rind of a lemon, and a small 
 onion finely minced; flavour it with salt, cay- 
 enne, and powdered cinnamon. Put it into a 
 saucepan with a piece of butter the size of an 
 egg, stir it over the fire for about ten minutes, 
 and pour into a mould. Probable cost of a 
 calf's foot, 4d. to 8d. Sufficient for a small 
 breakfast dish. 
 CALF'S FOOT, ROASTED. 
 
 Boil two calf's feet for one hour and a half, 
 then take them out of the saucepan, drain the 
 water from them, tie them together, and fasten 
 them on a spit. Baste freely with a little broth, 
 which has not been cleared from fat, and when 
 they have been before the fire about half an 
 hour, dredge them with flour, baste with butter, 
 and allow them to remain until they are nicely 
 brofrned. When sufficiently cooked, place them 
 on a hot dish, and pour round them a little 
 brown sauce flavoured with port. Time, two 
 hours and a half. Probable cost, calf's feet, 
 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 CALF'S FOOT SOUP. 
 
 Cut two calf's feet into about twelve pieces, 
 and put them into a saucepan, with half a head 
 of celery, a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of 
 thyme, an onion with five or six cloves stuck 
 into it, and two quarts of nicely-flavoured stock. 
 Simmer all gently together, skimming the liquid 
 carefully, for two hours. Take out the feet, 
 strain the liquor, return it to the saucepan, and 
 thicken it with two dessert-spoonfuls of finely- 
 sifted rice flour. A few minutes before the 
 soup is wanted, add pepper and salt, and stir 
 gradually into it a cupful of milk or cream, 
 mixed with the yolks of two eggs and a glass of 
 white wine. Stir it over the fire for two or 
 three minutes, but on no account allow it to 
 boil. Serve, with the pieces of calf's feet, in 
 the tureen. Probable cost, 7d. per pint, if 
 made with milk, and exclusive of the wine. 
 Sufficient for three pints of soup. 
 CALF'S FOOT STEWED WITH HERBS. 
 
 Wash a calf's foot. When it is thoroughly 
 clean, boil it in a quart of water until the flesh 
 can be easily taken from the bone. Remove 
 the bones, and cut the fl^h into small, evenly- 
 shaped pieces. Put a piece of butter the size 
 of a large egg into a stewpan, let it melt, then 
 put into it the pieces of meat, having previ- 
 ously salted, p'eppcred, and rolled them in flour. 
 Let them remain in the boiling butter until 
 they are nicely browned; put with tliem two 
 small onions, a dozen mushrooms chopped 
 flnely, and a bunch of savoury herbs; mix the 
 stock in by degrees, and let them simmer gently 
 for half an hour or so; then add the juice of a 
 lemon, and three well-beaten eggs. Do not 
 allow the liquid to boil again after the eggs 
 have been added. If the sauce is not sufficiently 
 

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 93 
 
 CAL. 
 
 Hack, a little more flour may be mixed in be- 
 fore the eggs and vinegar. If any of the liquor 
 in which the meat was boiled ia not required for 
 the sauce, it will be found very useful for 
 gravies, etc. 
 
 CALF'S FOOT STOCK: CHEAP SUBSTITUTES. 
 
 Ox heels may be used instead of calf's feet for 
 stock. They should be bonght before they have 
 been boiled at all. They are frequently offered 
 for sale when they are partially dressed, and 
 must be very carefully cleansed. They may be 
 bought for 4d. or 5d. each, and as two calf's feet 
 will produce a quart of stock, and two cow's 
 heels three pints, it is a decided saving to use 
 the latter. Ten shank bones of mutton, which 
 may be bought in some parts very cheap, will 
 yield as much jelly as a calf's foot. 
 
 CALF'S FOOT STOCK FOR JELLY. 
 
 Take four calf's feet properly dressed and 
 cleansed. Put a gallon of water into a sauce- 
 pan with the feet, and let them boil very gently 
 but continuously until the liquid is reduced by a 
 half. Strain it, and let it stand until stiff. 
 Then remove every particle of fat from it, 
 pouring a cupful of boiling water over it, 
 and placing a piece of blotting paper on the 
 top after you have skimmed it, to ensure its 
 being quite free from grease. Bemember to 
 leave the sediment behind when you use the 
 stocks Time to boil the feet, six or seven 
 hours. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD. 
 
 It is better to order a calf's head a day or 
 two before wanted. If only half a one is re- 
 quired, this applies more particularly; and a 
 half is sufficient for a dinner for a small family. 
 The heads are sold by butchers either skinned or 
 unskinned, and if they are sent home unskinned 
 great care must be taken to scrape the hair off as 
 closely as possible. To do this the head must be 
 put into water which is just upon the point of 
 boiling, and remain there for a few minutes after 
 it does so, then taken out and the hair scraped 
 off with a blunt knife, the head divided, and 
 the brains and tongue taken out. The head 
 must be most carefully washed. The first thing 
 to do, on receiving a calf's head, is to remove 
 the brains, throw them into cold water for an 
 hour, drain them, and boil them in salt and 
 water for a quarter of an hour, and put them 
 on one side. Put the head into cold water and 
 wash it well, clearing the cavities inside with 
 the fingers, lay it in fresh cold water, and leave 
 it there to draw out the blood, etc. One of the 
 choice bits of a calf's head lies deep in the 
 socket of the eye. It is always best to cook a 
 calf's head as soon as possible, and while it 
 should be thoroughly cooked, it should not be 
 overdone. It ought to be served in slices ; and 
 to secure this it should be bound with a little 
 broad tape. When it is to be served, lay it, 
 cheek upwards, on the dish as it comes from the 
 water, or brush it over with beaten egg, dust 
 bread-crumbs over it, and brown it. The brains 
 and tongue should be sent to table with it, on a 
 separate dish ; and the addition of ham or bacon 
 is considered by many persons an improvement. 
 Calf's head is usually garnished with sliced 
 lemon. Probable cost, Ss. to 9s. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD (k la Pompadour). 
 
 Boil and bone half a calf's head, and fill it 
 with a stuffing made of the calf's brains, a gill 
 of cream, the yolks of two eggs, a chopped mush- 
 room, a little chopped ham, and a tiny pinch of 
 cinnamon. Boil it in good stock, and when it 
 is sufficiently cooked take it out and mask it 
 all over vith a mixture of butter, yolk of egg, 
 and a table-spoonful of grated Parmesan, then 
 brown it in the oven and serve hot. 
 CALF'S HEAD (a la Poulette). 
 
 Take a dozen good-sized mushrooms, cut off 
 the end of the stalks, and rub the tops with a 
 piece of flannel dipped in salt. Put a piece of 
 butter the size of a large egg into a stewpan, 
 let it melt, and put in the mushrooms. Shake 
 them over a hot fire for a few minutes, turn 
 them into a basin, and keep them covered until 
 they are wanted for use. Cut the remains of a 
 cold calf's head into nicely-shaped slices, and 
 lay them on one side. Put a piece of butter the 
 size of an egg into a saucepan, let it melt, mix 
 with it very smoothly a dessert-spoonful of 
 fiour. Stir it until it is lightly browned ; add 
 to it very gradually, stirring all the time, a 
 large breakfast-cupful of boiling stock, and a 
 little pepper and cayenne. Let this boil up, 
 add the mushrooms, and boil the sauce gently 
 for a quarter of an hour. Put in the meat, 
 and let it simmer till quite hot ; draw the sauce- 
 pan to the side of the fire, let it cool for two 
 minutes, when the beaten yolks of two eggs 
 may be mixed with the contents. Stir the pre- 
 paration over the fire till it thickens, but on no 
 account allow it to boil, and at the last squeeze 
 in the iuice of half a lemon. Serve on a hot 
 dish. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, with- 
 out the cold meat. Is. 3d. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. 
 CALF'S HEAD la la Maitre d'HStel). 
 
 Take the remains of a cold calf's head, and 
 cut it into neat slices, leaving out the bones, etc. 
 Make some maitre d'hotel sauce, consisting of 
 halt a pint of good melted butter, mixed with 
 two dessert-spoonfuls of parsley boiled and 
 chopped, the juice of a small lemon, and a little 
 salt and pepper. Let this boil, then put in the 
 pieces of calf's head, let them become quite 
 heated, without boiling, and serve on a hot dish, 
 garnished with sippets of toast. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD (k la Sainte Menehould). 
 
 Take the remains of a calf's head boiled in 
 the usual way. Cut them into slices, and pour 
 over these a sauce prepared as follows. Dis-. 
 solve an ounce of butter over the fire, and mix 
 smoothly with it half a dessert-spoonful of 
 flour ; add a little salt and pepper, and either a 
 quarter of a pint of water, or as much nicely- 
 flavoured stock as will make the sauce as thick 
 as cream. Simmer this over the fire for a 
 few minutes. Draw the saucepan to the side, 
 let its contents cool for half a minute, and stir 
 into these the well-beaten yolks of three eggs. 
 Cover the calf's head with the sauce and a thick 
 layer of bread-crumbs. Pour over these a little 
 clarified butter, and more bread-crumbs. Place 
 the dish in a Dutch oven, brown the surface be- 
 fore the fire, and serve with sauce piquante. 
 Time to make the sauce, half an hour. Sufficient 
 for six or eight persons. 
 
CAL 
 
 94 
 
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 CALF'S HEAD (A la Tortue). 
 
 This dish, which is elaborate and apparently 
 difficult, will not be found to be beyond the 
 power of anyone who can please the eye as well 
 as the palate, and, after having flavoured a dish 
 judiciously, can arrange it elegantly. Procure 
 a large calf's head, properly prepared. Scald it 
 with the skin on. Remove the brains, which must 
 be boiled, chopped, and made into cakes, with 
 bread-crumbs, chopped parsley, pepper, salt, 
 and egg. They can then be put on one side and 
 fried in a little hot butter just before they are 
 wanted. Boil the head in the usual way (see 
 Cam's Head, Boiled) till it is sufficiently tender 
 to ■ allow the bones to be taken away without 
 altering the shape of the head^ Do not take 
 away the tongue, as it will help to preserve the 
 form. Take a large stewpan, melt three ounces 
 of butter in it, and when it is Isrown, mix 
 smoothly with it two table-spoonfuls of rice 
 fiour. Add just enough of the liquor, in which 
 the head was boiled to cover the meat, but be- 
 fore putting the head in, season the sauce with 
 salt, cayenne, nutmeg, four large tomatoes 
 stewed, and two glasses of sherry. Let it boil 
 up, then put in the calf's head, and when this is 
 hot it is ready to serve. The brain cakes may 
 be heated in the sauce, as also may button 
 mushrooms, forcemeat balls, the yolks of eggs 
 . boiled hard, sliced truffles, cock's-combs, real or 
 artificial. It is generally found better ,to boil 
 and bone this dish the day before it is wanted. 
 Time to stew in the gravy, three-quarters of an 
 hour. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD (it la Tortue), another way. 
 
 The remains of a cold calf's head may be cut 
 into small squares, warmed in a littte good 
 gravy, and ornamented in the same way as the 
 last dish. Make the sauce rather thick, put the 
 meat in the middle of the dish, and garnish as 
 prettily as possible with forcemeat balls, the" 
 yolks of hard-boiled eggs, and the whites cut 
 into rings, gherkins, olives, and stewed mush- 
 rooms. Time to simmer the meat in the gravy, 
 a quarter of an hour. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD, BAKED. 
 
 Take half a calf's head. Prepare it as if for 
 boiling, removing the brains and tongue. Let 
 it simmer gently for half an hour, then take it 
 out of the water, drain it, and fold it in a cloth 
 to dry. Prepare a breakfast-cupful of finely- 
 grated bread-crumbs), mix with them two salt- 
 spoonfuls of salt, half a salt-spoonful of cayenne 
 pepper, two dessert-spoonfuls of finely-shredded 
 sage, and the same of parsley. Brush tfie head 
 over with beaten egg, and strew the bread- 
 crumbs, etc., over it ; let it get dry, then repeat, 
 the second time pouring hot butter over instead 
 of brushing with egg. Fill the hollows of the 
 eyes with crumbs. Bake the head in a good 
 oven, basting it frequently with a cupful of 
 sauce mixed with a dessert-spoonful of vinegar. 
 The tongue and brains must be boiled separ- 
 ately, and cut into pieces, and a little time be- 
 fore the head is sufficiently baked, must be 
 strewed with the crumbs and put into the oven 
 to brown. Serve on a hot dish, with a little 
 gravy round the meat, and oyster sauce in a 
 tureen. Time to bake, two hours. Sufficient, 
 half a head for four persons. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD, BOILED (with or without the skin). 
 ' Thoroughly cleanse a calf's head, remove the 
 brains, and put it into boiling water for ten 
 minutes, to blanch it. Take it out, and lay it 
 in a deep saucepan with sufficient water to 
 cover it; let it boil up, remove the scum very 
 carefully as it rises, draw the pan to the side 
 of the fire, and let it simmer very gently until 
 ready. Wash the brains in two or three waters, 
 remove the skin and the fibres which hang about 
 them, and let them soak for an hour in cold 
 salted water ; pour that away, put them into 
 a saucepan with some fresh water to which a 
 table-spoonful of vinegar has been added, and 
 boil them for a quarter of an hour. Take the 
 scum off as it rises. Chop them rather coarsely, 
 and put them into a saucepan with a cupful of 
 good melted butter, a table-spoonful of sage 
 leaves chopped small, the same of scalded and 
 finely-minced parsley, a little salt and pepper, 
 and the juice of half ii lemon. Take out the 
 tongue, skin it,' trim it about the roots, and lay 
 it in the middle of a hot dish with the brain 
 sauce round it; keep it hot. The appearance 
 of the calf's head will be improved if after it is 
 taken up it is brushed over with egg, covered 
 with finely-grated bread-crumbs, and browned. 
 Slices of cut lemon are usually placed round 
 the dish. A little boiled bacon or pickled pork 
 is sent to table with it, as well as either parsley 
 and butter, tomato or mushroom sauce, in a 
 tureen. Time to boil, with the skin on, two and 
 a half or three hours, according to the size ; 
 without, one and a half or two hours. Suf- 
 ficient for seven or eight persons. The liquor 
 in which it is boiled should be carefully pre- 
 served; for though a calf's head is insipid if 
 eaten cold, it is excellent warmed, and for this 
 the liquor would be needed. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD BRAWN. 
 
 Take half a large calf's head with the skin on. 
 Wash it well, take out the brains and the soft 
 bone, and lay it in a pickle made of one pound 
 of salt, a quarter of a pound of bay salt, half a 
 pound of moist sugar, and one ounce of salt- 
 petre, boiled in three quarts of water for twenty 
 minutes, skimmed, and put aside until cold- 
 Let it stand in this for eight days, turning it 
 every day. Take it out, wash it well, and boil 
 it gently until tender. Remove the bones, and 
 put the meat while hot into a brawn-tin, flavour- 
 ing it with salt, pepper, pounded mace, and a 
 little cayenne. Put a heavy weight on it, and 
 let it stand until firm. Turn it out and garnish 
 with parsley. Time, three or four hours. Suf- 
 ficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD, COLLARED (to serve cold). 
 
 Take a calf's head, properly prepared, re- 
 move the brains, and put it into boiling water 
 for a quarter of an hour to blanch it; wash it 
 thoroughly, put it into cold water, and boil 
 until the bones can be removed. Bone and 
 lay it flat on the table, and sprinkle over it, in 
 alternate layers, six table-spoonfuls of chopped 
 parsley, some ground pepper, salt, and grated 
 nutmeg, pink ham cut into slices, and the yolks 
 of six eggs boiled hard, sliced, and dotted here 
 and there. Roll the head as tightly as possible, 
 tie it in a cloth, and boil it gently for four 
 hours. Take it out, drain, and put it under s 
 
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 weight, and do not remove the cloth and band- 
 ages until it is cold. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD, COLLAR-ED (to serve hot). 
 
 Take a calf's head, properly prepared, blanch 
 and boil it until it is sufficiently tender to re- 
 move the bones. When they are taken out, lay 
 the head on the table, and spread on it a force- 
 meat made of the brain, the tongue, and some 
 of the meat cut from where it is thickest, mixed 
 with a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, a tea- 
 spoonful of thyme, a tea-spoonful of marjoram, 
 the pounded yolks of three eggs boiled hard, 
 two spoonfuls of brandy, and a little salt, pep- 
 per, and nutmeg. Eoll the head as tightly as 
 possible, and tie it in a cloth, binding it with 
 tape. Put it into a saucepan with sufficient 
 stock to cover it, and add a carrot, a parsnip, 
 two or three onions, some slices of lemon, a 
 little thyme, four bay-leaves, and salt and 
 pepper. Let it boil gently for three hours, then 
 take it out of the cloth, and pour round it a 
 sauce made of a pint of the liquid in which it 
 was boiled, mixed with a table-spoonful of 
 chopped mushrooms, a table-spoonful of chopped 
 gherkins, and a little lemon-juice. Sufficient 
 for seven or eight persons. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD COLLOPS. 
 
 Cut a cold calf's head into small neat slices 
 about the third of an inch in thickness. Strew 
 over these a large dessert-spoonful of minced 
 parsley and a little salt and cayenne. Make 
 some good thick batter, dip each piece of meat 
 into it,' and fry it in boiling butter or oil until 
 nicely browned. Serve the collops very hot, 
 piled high on a dish, and accompanied with 
 lemon-juice and cayenne. Time to fry, ten 
 minutes. Probable cost, 6d., without the cold 
 meat. Sufficient, allow two or three collops for 
 •each person. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD, CURRIED. 
 
 Cut up the remains of a calf's head into pieces 
 about an inch square, and lay them on one side. 
 Put a piece of butter about the size of a large 
 egg into a saucepan ; let it melt, then slice into 
 it two large onions, and fry them unfil lightly 
 browned on both sides ; take them out, and stir 
 a dessert-spoonful of curry powder gradually 
 and smoothly into the butter, and afterwards a 
 small cupful of good stock. When the sauce is 
 quite smooth, add the cold calf's head and 
 onions; let the mixture boil ten minutes, and 
 just at the last squeeze in the juice of half a 
 lemon. Put it into th& centre of a dish, with 
 a border of rice round it, boiled as for other 
 curries. If necessary, a little more stock may 
 be added, but curries should not be watery. 
 Probable cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d. 
 Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD, FRICASSEED. 
 
 Cut the remains of a cold calf's head into 
 slices about a quarter of an inch thick, and lay 
 them aside until wanted. Put a pint and a half 
 of the liquid in which the head was boiled into 
 a saucepan with a salt-spoonful of salt, half a 
 salt-spoonful of pepper, a bunch of savoury 
 herbs, and an onion stuck with four cloves. Let 
 these simmer gently for three-quarters of an 
 hour ; then strain the liquid, and pour it into a 
 jar until wanted. Put a piece of butter the size 
 
 of a large egg into a saucepan ; let it melt, then 
 mix with it very smoothly a table-spoonful of 
 flour, and afterwards, very gradually, the 
 strained liquid. Put the meat in, let it boil, 
 draw it from the fire for a minute or two, and 
 mix with it the beaten yolks of two eggs. Stir 
 it over the fire till it thickens, but do not allow 
 it to boil. Before serving, squeeze in the juice 
 of half a lemon. Time, one hour and a half. 
 Probable cost, exclusive of the cold calf's head, 
 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD, FRIED. 
 
 Cut the remains of a cold calf's head intO' 
 pieces about an inch and a half wide. Lay them 
 for three hours in a pickle made of two table- 
 spoonfuls of lemon-juice, the same of white wine, 
 salt, pepper, and powdered cinnamon. Take 
 them out, drain them, and dip each piece into a. 
 batter. Pry them in boiling fat till they are a 
 bright brown, and pile them in a pyramid on a 
 hot dish. Time, ten minutes to fry. Probable 
 cost, 6d. or 8d., without the wine. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD, HASHED. 
 
 Cut the remains of a cold calf's head into nice 
 slices about a quarter of an inch thick and three 
 or four inches long, and set them aside until 
 wanted. Take the remains of the brains and 
 beat them up with a dessert-spoonful of chopped 
 parsley, a salt-spoonful of finely-shredded lemon- 
 rind, and a little salt and pepper. Make this 
 into cakes, and fry them in hot fat till they are 
 nicely browned. Put a piece of butter the size 
 of a large egg into a saucepan ; melt it, then 
 mix with it very smoothly a table-spoonful of 
 fiour, half a pint of well-flavoured stock, a little 
 pepper and salti and cayenne, and the liquor 
 from a score of oysters, or, what will be very 
 good, though not as goodi. a table-spoonful of 
 the liquor from a tin of oysters ; let this boil up, 
 add the pieces of head, a table-spoonful of 
 mushroom ketchup, and a score of oysters, fresh 
 or tinned. Let all simmer until quite hot, but 
 the preparation must not boil again. Serve the 
 meat in the middle. Pour the gravy over, and 
 arrange, alternately, fried bacon and the brain 
 cakes round it. Time altogether, half an hour. 
 Probable cost, exclusive of the meat, with fresh 
 oysters, 2s. 6d. ; with tinned oysters,. Is. 4d. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD, HASHED (another way). 
 
 Cut the remains of a cold calf's head into 
 neat slices about a quarter of an inch in thick- 
 ness and three or four inches square. Put two 
 ounces of butter into a saucepan; let it melt, 
 then fry in it two large onions cut into dice, and 
 when they are lightly browned take them out, 
 and mix very smoothly with the butter, one 
 table-spoonful of flour, and a cupful of the 
 liquor in which the head was boiled. Add the 
 onion and two table-spoonfuls of pickled gher- 
 kins, chopped small, then the pieces of cold 
 calf's head. Let all simmer gently for two or 
 three minutes ; serve as hot as possible. A glass 
 of sherry is an improvement. Probable cost, 
 exclusive of the cold meat, 6d. Sufficient for 
 four or flve persons. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD IN JELLY. 
 
 Take a border mould and decorate it with 
 fancy-cut carrot, green peas (which have been 
 
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 previously cooked), and hard-boiled egg. Half 
 ill the mould with the remaina of boiled calf's 
 liead, gently fill up with some of tne stock in 
 ■which the head was boiled, and allow to set. 
 Un-mould, fill the centre with a dainty salad, 
 and decorate the corners with a little mustard 
 and cress. In hot weather it will be necessary 
 to stiffen the stock with gelatine. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD, MOCK TURTLE SOUP OF. 
 
 Take half a calf's head with the skin on, 
 remove the brains, wash it in two or three 
 waters, and boil it gently for an hour and a 
 half. Take off the skin, cut it and the flesh into 
 pieces about an inch and a half square, and 
 throw them into cold water. Drain, and put 
 them into a saucepan, cover with stock, and let 
 them simmer gently for another hour and a half. 
 Put three quarts of nicely-flavoured stock into 
 a separate stewpan, and with it a tea-spoonful 
 of minced thyme, a tea-spoonful of marjoram, 
 four bay-leaves, three dessert-spoonfuls of 
 chopped parsley, half an ounce of whole pepper, 
 half an ounce of salt, three onions with four 
 cloves stuck in them, half a head of celery, and 
 two table-spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup. Let 
 these simmer slowly for two hours. Strain the 
 liquor, thicken it with two table-spoonfuls of 
 flour, mixed with a little cold water, and added 
 gradually, then pour it into the same saucepan 
 as the meat, add half a pint of sherry, eight or 
 nine forcemeat balls (one for each person), the 
 hard-boiled yolks of five eggs, and the juice of a 
 lemon. Let all simmer for a few minutes, and 
 serve. The forcemeat balls should be made by 
 mixing well together the brains, a breakfast- 
 cupful of finely-grated bread-crumbs, a little 
 salt, pepper, nutmeg, and parsley, three ounces 
 of butter, and two eggs. Form them into balls 
 about the size of a nutmeg, fry them in boiling 
 oil or dripping, and drain them from the fat 
 Ijefore they are added to the soup. Time, four 
 hours. Probable cost. Is. 6d. per quart, with- 
 out the wine. Sufficient for ten or twelve per- 
 sons. {See also Txtbtle Soup, Mock.) 
 
 CALF'S HEAD MOULD. 
 
 Cut the remains of a cold calf's head into neat 
 slices. Make some clear savoury jelly with gela- 
 tine (see Aspic Jelly). Put a little of the jelly 
 at the bottom of a plain mould which has been 
 soaked in cold water. Let it set a little, then 
 arrange the pieces of meat in the mould, making 
 them look as nice as possible with a little 
 parsley, pieces of ham or tongue, and rings of 
 iard-boiled egg. Leave space between the pieces 
 of meat for the jelly to run through. Nearly fill 
 the mould with the meat, pour the jelly over it, 
 and put it in a cool place till stiff enough to 
 turn out. Time, twelve hours to set. Suf- 
 flcient for a breakfast dish. Probable cost. Is. 
 for a moderate-sized mould, exclusive of the 
 meat. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD PIE. 
 
 An excellent pie may be made of calf's head. 
 Take one properly prepared, and boil it until 
 the bones can be taken out. Line the edge of a 
 large pie-dish with a good, light crust, put in the 
 pieces of meat, the tongue at the top, season 
 it with salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg, pour 
 over it a cupful of the liquor in which tie head 
 was boiled, cover it with a thick crust, and bake 
 
 in a good oven until nicely browned. While it 
 is baking put the bones of the head into a sauce- 
 pan, with a quart of the liquor, a tea-spoonful of 
 powdered mace, an onion chopped small, and 
 half a salt-spoonful of cayenne pepper. Let it 
 simmer gently until it is reduced to half, then 
 strain it, and add two table-spoonfuls of mush- 
 room ketchup and a glass of port. Mix the 
 brains with three or four sage-leaves, chopped 
 small, a little nutmeg grated, and an egg. 
 Make them up into little cakes, and fry them 
 in hot frying fat until they are nicely browned. 
 Put them in the oven to keep warm, with a 
 sheet of blotting paper under them to drain off 
 the fat. Have ready also four or five hard- 
 boiled eggs. When the pie is sufficiently cooked, 
 take off the crust, and lay the brain cakes and 
 the eggs, cut into rings, on the top; pour the 
 boiling gravy over all, and fasten the crust on 
 again with the white of an egg before sending 
 the dish to table. Time to bake, an hour and a 
 half or more. Sufficient for eight or nine per- 
 sons. Probable cost, from 6s. to lis. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD RAGOUT. 
 
 Boil a calf's head, and while the flesh is still 
 firm, take it up, cut it into nice slices, about 
 half an inch thick, and as large as possible. 
 Drst these on both sides with flour, salt, and 
 grated nutmeg. Have a saucepan ready, melt 
 two ounces of butter in it, and fry the pieces of 
 meat, and as each piece is lightly browned, put 
 it into a stewpan. When all the pieces are fned, 
 mix a table-spoonful of flour very smoothly with 
 the butter left in the pan, and add gradually to 
 this a breakfast-cupful of the lii^uid in which 
 the head was first boiled, and a wine-glassful of 
 sherry or Madeira. Season the liquor with the 
 juice of half a lemon, and a little cayenne. 
 When this sauce is quite smooth, pour it over 
 the meat, and let all simmer together for about 
 ten minutes. Arrange the meat nicely on a hot 
 dish, and pour the sauce round it. Garnish 
 either with brain cakes or toasted sippets. Time, 
 to boil calf's head, one hour and a half. Suf- 
 ficient for eight or nine persons. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD, ROASTED. 
 
 Wash a calf's head, remove the brains and the 
 tongue, and simmer it gently for three-quarters 
 of an hour. Take it out of the saucepan, and 
 fill it with good veal forcemeat. Sew it up, or 
 fasten it securely with skewers; bind it with 
 tape, and put it down to roast. Baste it con- 
 stantly, serve good gravy with it, and, before 
 sending it to tsible, squeeze the juice of a lemon 
 over it. Boil the tongfue and brains, and serve 
 them on a separate dish, with a few rashers of 
 bacon round them. Time to roast, two hours. 
 Sufficient for eight or nine persons. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD SOUP. 
 
 Take half a calf's head, properly prepared, 
 and as fresh as it can be got. Wash well, and 
 soak it in cold water for a couple of hours. 
 Take it out, drain it, and put it in a saucepan 
 with three quarts of cold water, and let it sim- 
 mer gently for three hours, when it may be 
 taken out and set on one side until wanted. 
 Put two leeks, two carrots, two turnips, all 
 peeled and sliced, two onions with four cloves 
 stuck in them, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of 
 thyme, half a dozen peppercorns, and a little 
 
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 salt into the liquor. Let these stew gently for 
 another hour, arid keep skimming all the time. 
 Strain the soup, and remove the fat, which must 
 be put into a frying-pan, melted, and two large 
 onions sliced into it. Let these brown, add a 
 little of the liquor, and mix with them, gradu- 
 ally and very smoothly, three table-spoont'uls of 
 rice flour, and a salt-spoonful of the essence of 
 anchovies. Add the rest of the liquor, little by 
 little, and the calf's head cut into pieces about 
 an inch and a half square, and let all boil to- 
 gether for five or six minutes. Serve with 
 toasted sippets. Probable cost. Is. 8d. per 
 quart. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. 
 CALF'S HEAD, TO CARVE. 
 
 Commence by making long slices from end to 
 end of the cheek, cutting quite through to the 
 bone, according to the dotted lines from a to b. 
 With each of these slices serve a cut of what 
 is called the throat sweetbread, which lies at 
 the fleshy part of the neck end. A little of 
 the tongue and a spoonful of the brains are 
 
 C-ILF S HEAD rOK CAHVING. 
 
 usually placed on each plate. The tongue is 
 served on a separate plate, surrounded by the 
 brains, and is cut across in rather thin slices. 
 Another portion, which some people consider to 
 be a delicacy, is the eye. In order to remove this, 
 make a circular cut, marked by dotted lines at 
 c. First put the knife in slanting at d, insert- 
 ing the point at that part of the dotted line, and 
 driving it into the centre under the eye; then 
 turn the hand round, keeping the circle of the 
 dotted line with the blade of the knife, the 
 point still in the centre. The eye will come out 
 entire, cone-shaped at the upper part, when the 
 circle is completed by the knife. The lower 
 jaw must next be removed, beginning at e; 
 and to do this properly the dish must be turned. 
 The palate is also considered a dainty, and a 
 little of it should always bfe offered to each 
 guest. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD WITH MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Take half a calf's head with the skin on, wash 
 it in two or three waters, and boil it about an 
 hour, or until the bones can be removed with- 
 out very much difficulty. Remove the bones, 
 replace the brain, and put the head into a stew- 
 pan with the skin downwards, and just cover 
 it with good brown gravy, season it with salt 
 and cayenne, and let it simmer for hall an hour. 
 Rub two dozen button mushrooms with a flannel 
 and a little salt, cut the ends off the stalks. 
 
 which must be separated frorjL the mushrooms, 
 and then put them into a stewpan with a little 
 hot butter, and boil them in it for five minutes, 
 taking care that they do not stick to the pan. 
 Drain them, and put them into the gravy, which 
 may be thickened with a little ground rice, and 
 stew all together for another hour. Serve with 
 veal forcemeat balls, and a few rashers of fried 
 bacon. Time, two and a half hours. Probable 
 cost, 5s. 6d. Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD WITH OYSTERS. 
 
 Boil half a calf's head in the usual way (see 
 Calf's Head, Boiled), and only just cover it 
 with water, flavouring it with two onions stuck 
 with five or six cloves, two bay-leaves, a bunch 
 of parsley, a sprig of marjoram and thyme, and 
 a little salt and cayenne. When the head is 
 tender, take it out, strain the liquor, thicken a 
 large breakfast-cupful of it with a dessert-spoon- 
 ful of flour, and add the liquor from two dozen 
 oysters, and a breakfast-cupful of milk. Put 
 in the head and simmer again for half an hour. 
 Just before serving, put in the oysters; let 
 them g-et hot, but do not allow them to boil or 
 they will be hard. Serve with the oysters round 
 the dish. Time, two hours. Sufficient for six or 
 seven persons. 
 
 CALF'S HEART, ROASTED. ' 
 
 Wash the heart thoroughly in several waters, 
 then leave it to soak for half an hour. Wipe it 
 drv. and fill it with good veal stuffing, tie a 
 piece of oiled paper round it, and roast it before 
 a good fire an hour and a half or more, according 
 to the size. Before serving, take off the paper, 
 sprinkle some flour over it, and baste it well. 
 Send it to table with plenty of good brown 
 gravy, and some fried bacon on a separate dish. 
 
 CALF'S KIDNEY. 
 
 The kidney of a calf may be made into balls, 
 fried in hot butter or oil, and served with good 
 brown gravy and toasted sippets. It must be 
 cut into small pieces and made up with bread- 
 crumbs, chopped onions, butter, salt, cayenne, 
 and a beaten egg. Time to fry, ten minutes. 
 The kidney is usually sold with the loin. Prob- 
 able cost of kidneys, sufficient for two or three 
 persons, 6d. or 8d. 
 
 CALF'S LIVER (Mock Pate de Foie Gras). 
 
 Soak some calf's liver for half an hour, then 
 dry it in a cloth, and cut it into thin slices, each 
 of which miist be dipped in egg, and minced 
 herbs, salt, and pepper strewn over it. Place a 
 layer of these at the bottom of the dish, then 
 a layer of bacon, and over these some sliced 
 truffles and hard-boiled eggs. Repeat until the 
 dish is full. Pour some good gravy over the 
 whole, cover with a light crust, and bake in a 
 moderate oven. Do not overcrowd the meat in 
 the dish, as there should be plenty of jelly. It 
 must be eaten cold. Time to bake, one hour 
 and a half. One pound of calf's liver will suffice 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 CALF'S LIVER AND BACON. 
 
 (See Bacon and Calf's Livee.) 
 
 CALF'S LIVER AND TOMATOES 
 
 Cut a calf's liver into pieces about halt an 
 inch thick and three inches long. Put a piece 
 of butter into a pan; when boiling add two 
 
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 98 
 
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 Email onions and a tea-spoonful oi parsley, both 
 chopped very finely; dip each piece of liver in 
 this and slightly cook. Take them out, egg and 
 bread-crumb them, then plunge them into boil- 
 ing fat, and fry a nice golden brown. , Dish up 
 with tomato sauce. 
 
 The Sauce. — Scald four tomatoes and skin 
 them; cut into thin slices, put into a saucepan 
 with a little butter, salt, and cayenne, and 
 cook till the tomatoes are quite tender. 
 CALF'S LIVER, STEWED. 
 
 Take two or three pounds of liver, soak it in 
 cold water for about twenty minutes, then put 
 it into a stewpan with a little melted butter, and 
 let it brown lightly ; pour off the fat, and cover 
 it with some nicely-flavoured stock, and let it 
 stew very gently for a couple of hours or more. 
 Thicken the gravy, and put a couple of glasses 
 of port into it, and the ]uice of a lemon, or, if 
 preferred, white wine. It is an improvement to 
 lard the liver before putting it into the stew- 
 pan, or finely-minced herbs may be strewn over 
 it after browning. Time, two hours and a half. 
 Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Suflicient for 
 four or five persons. (See also Liveb, Feied.) 
 
 CALF'S PLUCK. 
 
 Stuff the heart with a veal forcemeat to which 
 a little bacon has been added, and fasten the 
 liver and lights securely round it. Put it be- 
 fore a moderate fire, and baste it well while it 
 is roasting. When it is cooked enough, put it 
 on a hot dish with melted butter, whicE"has been 
 flavoured with a glass of port and the juifce of a 
 lemon, round it. Time to bake, from two to 
 three hours. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. 
 Sufficient for six persons. 
 CALF'S PLUCK (another way). 
 
 Stuff the heart as in the last recipe, and bake 
 it in a moderate oven with a little boiled ver- 
 micelli laid over it. When it is suf&ciently 
 cooked, put it on a hot dish, slice and fry the 
 liver, lights, and a few rashers of bacon, and 
 place them round, and pour a good brown gravy 
 over the whole. Time to bake, two hours, or ac- 
 cording to size. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. 
 Sufficient for six persons. 
 CALF'S SWEETBREADS. 
 
 Calf's sweetbreads should always be soaked 
 for an hour or two in cold water, which must be 
 changed once or twice, then put into boiling 
 water for about ten minutes, till they are firm 
 and round but not hard ; take them out and put 
 into cold water again until they are wanted to 
 be dressed. This should be done whether they 
 are intended to ;l3e stewed, fried, roasted, baked, 
 or cooked in any other way. 
 CALF'S SWEETBREADS, BAKED. 
 
 Prepare the sweetbreads as above. Dry them, 
 dip them in egg and bread-crumbs, place two or 
 three lumps of butter or nice beef dripping on 
 and around them, and bake them in a moderate 
 oven for three-quarters of an hour, basting them 
 frequently during the process. Serve them on 
 a slice of toast, and pour a good brown gravy 
 round them. Sufficient, two sweetbreads for 
 three persons. 
 
 CALF'S SWEETBREADS, BRAISED. 
 
 Take two good sweetbreads, cut off the root, 
 and let them soak two or three hours ip cold 
 
 water, then blanch them and. put them in fresh 
 water to cool; press them well and place them 
 on a clean cloth, another on top, with a small 
 weight to hold it in place. Let them, remain 
 like this for several hours, then trim them, lard 
 them with strips of fat bacon, and stew them 
 as follows. Make a foundation of slices of 
 carrots and onions in a flat saucepan. Put the 
 sweetbreads on this, with the parings in the 
 spaces between, and a bouquet garni. Close 
 the lid of the saucepan tightly, and place it at 
 the side of the fire to cook slowly. When the 
 sweetbreads begin to brown, moisten them with 
 a little white wine ; let this reduce, then put in 
 some gravy, thickened with arrowroot, to half 
 cover them. Place a sheet of buttered paper or 
 a strip of fat bacon on top, and cover again. 
 When half done turn the sweetbreads over. 
 When nearly finished take off the paper, place 
 the larded part of the sweetbreads uppermost, 
 and put the saucepan in the oven without its 
 lid ; baste with the gravy while it browns. Take 
 out the sweetbreads, cut them in slices aslant, 
 and garnish with spinach. Glaze with a little 
 of the reduced sauce, and send remainder to 
 table in a sauce boat. 
 CALF'S SWEETBREADS, STEWED. 
 
 Put two sweetbreads, prepared as above, into 
 a stewpan with some nicely-flavoured stock, and 
 let them simmer gently for three-quarters of an 
 hour or more. Take them out and place them 
 on a hot dish. Draw the gravy from the fire for 
 a minute or two, and add to it very gradually 
 the yolk of an egg and four table-spoonfuls of 
 cream. Put this over a gentle fire until the 
 sauce thickens, but do not allow it to boil. 
 Just before serving, squeeze into it the juice of 
 a lemon. Sufficient for three persons. 
 
 CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Soak two sweetbreads for an hour in warm 
 water with a tea-spoonful of salt; pick off all 
 the skin and cut away any fat or gristle ; put on 
 to boil for half an hour in sufficient water to 
 cover, then strain the liquid off. Put the sweet- 
 breads in a saucepan with half a pint of milk 
 and half a tea-spoonful of salt, a little cayenne, 
 and six large fresh mushrooms; allow them to 
 boil slowly for another half hour, thicken with a 
 little flour, put in a dessert-spoonful of butter 
 and another of chopped parsley ; dish the sweet- 
 breads up whole with the sauce. 
 CALF'S TAILS. 
 
 Cut four calf's tails in pieces an inch and a 
 half long, fry them in boiling fat till they are 
 lightly browned, then stew them in good gravy 
 till they are quite tender. Serve them with 
 thick brown sauce round them, and some stewed 
 mushrooms on a separate dish. When mush- 
 rooms cannot be obtained, put a tea-spoonful 
 of ketchup into the gravy. Time to stew, two 
 hours. Probable cost, 9d. each. Sufficient for 
 six persons. 
 CALF'S TONGUES WITH TOMATO SAUCE. 
 
 Trim the tongues, and put them into a stew- 
 pan with an onion, a stick of celery, a carrot, a 
 turnip, and a bunch of herbs, and enough water 
 or weak stock to cover. Season to taste, and 
 simmer gently till tender (about three and a 
 half hours) ; then skin, lay them on a Hot dish, 
 strain the liquor, add a quarter of a pint sf thick 
 
CAM 
 
 CAN 
 
 tomato sauce, and pour over ; garnish with small 
 forcemeat balls. 
 CAMBRIDGE MILK PUNCH. 
 
 Put the thin rind of half a small lemon into a 
 pint of new milk, with twelve or fourteen good- 
 sized lumps of sugar. Let it boil very 
 slowly to draw out the flavour of the lemon, then 
 take it from the fire, and stir into it (the rind 
 having been removed), the yolk of an egg mixed 
 with a table-spoonful of cold milk, two table- 
 spoonfuls of brandy, and four of rum. Whisk 
 these thoroughly together, and when the mixture 
 is frothed it is ready to serve. Time to prepare, 
 half an hour. Probable cost, 5d., exclusive of 
 the brandy and rum. Sufficient for a pint and a 
 half of punch. 
 CAMOMILE TEA. 
 
 Pour a pint of boiling water over a half ounce 
 of camomile flowers. Let them soak for ten 
 minutes, and then strain. If taken warm, 
 camomile tea acts as a gentle emetic. When 
 taken cold it is often beneficial in cases of 
 dyspepsia, hysteria, and headache. 
 
 CANADIAN CAKES. 
 
 Mix thoroughly one pound of the best flour, 
 a quarter of a pound of maizena, three-quarters 
 of a pound of sugar, and a pinch of aalt. Rub 
 in three-quarters of a pound of butter, and add 
 eight eggs well beaten, half an ounce of candied 
 peel chopped very small, a, wine-glassful of 
 brandy, and half a pound of currants. Beat 
 these ingredients well together, and put the 
 mixture into shallow tins, which must be lined 
 with paper dipped in oil or butter, and bake in 
 a good oven. Time to bake, half an hour. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for four cakes. 
 
 CANADIAN COBBLER. 
 
 Half fill a soda-water glass with pounded ice, 
 and add half a small lemon sliced, a dessert- 
 spoonful of sugar, and two glasses of sherry. 
 Mix well together, and drink through a straw. 
 Time to make, a few minutes. Probable cost, 
 3d., exclusive of the sherry. Sufficient for one 
 person. 
 
 CANADIAN PUDDING. 
 
 Mix six table-spoonfuls of Indian corn- 
 flour, one quart of milk, and the thin rind 
 of half a lemon, in a saucepan, and let it boil, 
 stirring all the time. Let it cool; then mix 
 with it four eggs well beaten, and a little sugar, 
 and pour it into a well-buttered mould which 
 has been garnished with raisins placed in rows. 
 Steam it for two hours, and serve with wine 
 sauce. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for six 
 persons. 
 
 CANAPES. 
 
 Take slices of the crumb of bread about half 
 an inch thick, and stamp them out in rounds, 
 ovals, or diamonds, then fry them in boiling oil 
 or butter till they are lightly browned. These 
 form the foundation of the canapes. They may 
 be seasoned and garnished with anchovy, 
 shrimp, or lobster paste, toasted cheese, hard- 
 boiled eggs, cucumbers, beetroot, parsley, salad, 
 cresses, celery, gherkins, prawns, crayfish, or 
 salmon. A combination of two or three things 
 gives them a handsomer appearance. They 
 should be dished on a napkin and garnished with 
 parsley, etc. Time to fry, ten minutes. 
 
 CANAPES (i, la Windsor). 
 
 Take two ounces of chicken or game, one 
 ounce of lean cooked ham, one ounce of Parme- 
 san cheese, three anchovies boned, two ounces 
 of butter, and a sprinkling of salt and cayenne. 
 Pound all together in a mortar, and pass through 
 a wire or hair sieve. Have ready some small 
 rounds of fried bread, spread the mixture thick 
 on each round; sprinkle fine bread-crumbs on 
 them, and place in a brisk oven for a few 
 minutes. Serve very hot. Probable cost. Is. 
 CANARY CREAM. 
 
 Put a pint of milk into a saucepan, with a 
 little sugar, and the grated rind of half a lemon. 
 When boiling, pour it upon the beaten yolks of 
 three eggs. Return it to the stewpan, and stir 
 it over a slow fire till the eggs thicken, and be 
 very careful that it does not curdle. When cool, 
 stir in a small glass of sherry or brandy to 
 flavour it, and serve in custard glasses. Time, 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost, 7d., exclusive 
 of the wine. Sufficient for a dozen small glasses. 
 CANARY PUDDING. 
 
 Beat up four ounces of butter before the fire 
 until it is nearly melted ; dredge in halt' a pound 
 of fiour and a quarter of a pound of castor 
 sugar, and add four eggs well beaten. Chop up 
 some candied lemon-peel very fine, and add it 
 to the mixture, with the juice of half a lemon. 
 Pour into a buttered mould, and steam or boil 
 for two hours. Probable cost, 8d. 
 
 CANNELON (k 'la Fran^aise). 
 
 Mince a pound of underdressed beef and half 
 a pound of bacon, and mix them well together, 
 season with a little pepper, salt, and nutmeg, a 
 tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, and the same of 
 marjoram and thyme. Bind all together with 
 beaten egg, form the mince into a roll, tie some 
 white oiled paper round it to keep it in shape, 
 and bake it in a moderate oven. When suffi- 
 ciently cooked, take off the paper, put the roll 
 on a dish, and pour good brown g);avy round it. 
 Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour. Prob- 
 able cost, 3d., exclusive of the cold meat. 
 
 CANNELONS (H la Poulette). 
 
 Take the remains of cold chicken and half the 
 quantity of cold ham ; mince and mix them thor- 
 oughly with a little good white sauce. Roll out 
 some good light paste about a quarter of an inch 
 in thickness, cut it into pieces two inches long^ 
 and one inch wide. Place a little of the mix- 
 ture on half of these pieces, and with the others 
 cover each one; press the edges, and round 
 them. Fry them in hot fat. Drain, and serve 
 on a napkin. Time to fry, a minute or two, till 
 they are lightly browned. Probable cost, Jd. 
 each, exclusive of the cold meat. 
 
 CANNELONS, OR FRIED PUFFS. 
 
 Make some fine puff paste (see Puff Paste). 
 Roll it very thin, and cut it into pieces two 
 inches wide and six inches long. Place a tea- 
 spoonful of jam on each piece, and fold the ends 
 over. Press the edges (which must be brushed 
 with water or the white of egg), and fry the 
 cannelons in hot fat. When they begin to 
 brown, draw them to the side of the fire, or the 
 pastry will be sufficiently browned before it is 
 cooked through. Drain them well by laying a 
 piece of blotting paper on a dish before the fire. 
 
CAN 
 
 100 
 
 CAP 
 
 and placing them on it for a minute or two. 
 Arrange them in a pile on a napkin. They may 
 
 CAPON STUFFED AND EGASTED (iCe IIMJC 101). 
 
 be made with any sort of jam, or with fresh 
 fruit. Time to fry, ten minutes. 
 
 CANTERBURY PUDDINGS. 
 
 Melt two ounces of butter, then stir into it 
 gradually two well-beaten eggs. Add two 
 ounces of sugar, two ounces of flour, and a little 
 lemon-rind. At the last moment stir in a pinch 
 of baking powder. Half fill buttered cups with 
 the batter, and bake in a well-heated oven. 
 Serve on a dish with wine sauce poured round. 
 Time to bake, about twenty minutes. 
 
 CANVAS-BACK DUCKS, ROASTED. 
 
 Procure two fine fat canvas-back ducks ; pick, 
 singe, draw, and wipe carefully; throw a light 
 pinch of salt inside, run in the head from the 
 end of the neck to the back, truss nicely, and 
 place in a roasting-pan. Sprinkle a little salt 
 over, put them in a brisk oven, and let them 
 cook for eighteen to twenty minutes. Arrange 
 on a very hot dish, untruss, throw two table- 
 spoonfuls of white broth into each duck, and 
 serve with slices of fried hominy and currant 
 jelly. Price uncertain. 
 CAPERCAILZIE, HASHED. 
 
 Cut the meat all off a cold roast capercailzie 
 into neat pieces. Put it into any gravy that is 
 left ; add a little cayenne and a squeeze of lemon 
 juice, and serve very hot, garni.shed with rolls 
 of fried bacon. Probable cost, 3s. 
 
 CAPERCAILZIE, ROAST. 
 
 Place some slices of fat bacon on the breast 
 of the bird, and bake it in a fairlj- hot oven for 
 one and a half hours. Baste frequently with 
 butter, and send to table with brown gravj', a 
 cut orange, and bread sauce. Probable cost, 3s. 
 
 CAPERS. 
 
 The bottle in which capers are kept should 
 never be left without the cork. They should 
 also be kept covered with the liquor, or they 
 will spoil, and on this account it is better to 
 use a spoonful of white vinegar, instead of the 
 liquor, in making sauce. The flavour cannot be 
 fully extracted unless the capers are bruised. 
 CAPER SAUCE, A SUBSTITUTE FOR, 
 
 Pickled gherkins, pickled nasturtium pods, 
 French beans, or green peas, cut small like 
 capers, may be used as a substitute for them. 
 The nasturtium pods are by many persons con- 
 sidered preferable. When none of these are at 
 hand, parsley may be boiled slowly to take away 
 its greenness, , and cut up into pieces, not 
 chopped small. Proceed in the same way as 
 with capers. Time, one oy two minutes to 
 simmer. Probable coat, the same as for capers ; 
 
 parsley will be cheaper. Sufficient, a pint of 
 
 sauce for a leg of mutton. 
 
 CAPER SAUCE FOR BOILED MUTTON. 
 
 Take about half a pint of good melted butter, 
 and stir into it one table-spoonful and a half of 
 chopped capers and two tea-spoonfuls of vine- 
 gar. Stir the sauce over the fire, simmering it 
 very gently for about a minute. Serve in a 
 sauce tureen. Probable cost, 6d. for this quan- 
 tity. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 CAPER SAUCE FOR FISH. 
 
 Stir three dessert-spoonfuls of chopped capers 
 and one dessert-spoonful of vinegar into half a 
 pint of melted butter; put it on a gentle fire, 
 and when the sauce is simmering stir in a 
 dessert-spoonful either of essence of anchovy, 
 mushroom, or walnut ketchup, and season rather 
 highly with cayenne. Time, two minutes to 
 simmer. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for two 
 pounds of fish. 
 CAPON, THE. 
 
 Capons, to be tender, ought to be killed a 
 day or two before they are dressed, and in cold 
 weather more than that time may be allowed 
 to intervene between killing and cooking. When 
 the feathers can be easily pulled out, the bird 
 is ready for the spit or the oven. They should 
 be managed precisely in the same way as tur- 
 keys, anci the same sauces may be sent to table 
 with them. They may be had all the year, but 
 are cheapest about October and November, and 
 largest at Christmas. 
 
 CAPON (a la Casserole). 
 
 Take one large capon and lard its breast 
 (see TiATtP, To). Chop up a half terrine of pate 
 de foie gras with three hard-boiled eggs, and 
 make it into a forcemeat with three slices of 
 fat bacon minced, a tea-spoonful of chopped 
 parsley, »■ pinch of tarragon, the yolk of a raw 
 egg, pepper and salt. Stuff the bird with this, 
 and stew it gently in a closely-covered earthen- 
 ware dish or casserole. Serve with a rich white 
 sauce, fiavoured with oysters or mushrooms. 
 Probable cost, 6s. 
 
 CAPON, BOILED. 
 
 Draw and truss a fine capon, and tie a sheet 
 of oiled or buttered paper over it. Lay it in a 
 saucepan, with sufficient water or stock to cover 
 it, and put with it an onion, a carrot, a bunch 
 of sweet herbs, and a little salt. Stew it gently, 
 and when done, take it up, and lay round the 
 dish on which it is served four or five small 
 cauliflowers. Pour a little bechamel over it. 
 Time to boil, one hour. Probable cost, from 
 2s. 6d. to 4s. Sufficient for four or flve persons. 
 CAPON CREAM. 
 
 Take all the meat from the remains of a 
 boiled or roast capon ; pound it in a mortar, and 
 season with pepper and salt; add a beaten egg, 
 and rub all through a sieve. Add half a gill of 
 cream, and the white of an egg, and mix. Put 
 the mixture into small well-buttered moulds, 
 cover over with buttered paper, and steam 
 gently for twenty minutes. Turn out carefully, 
 and pour over each a little good white sauce. 
 
 CAPON, ROAST. 
 
 Truss a capon firmly for roasting. Fasten 
 some oiled paper over the breast, and roast it 
 
CAP 
 
 101 
 
 CAP 
 
 before a good fire. When sufficiently cooked 
 take it down, and place it on a hot dish with 
 water-cress round it. Send some good gravy to 
 table with it. Time, to roast, one hour. Prob- 
 able cost, from 2s. 6d. to 4s. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. 
 
 CAPON, ROASTED, WITH CREAM STUFFING. 
 
 Truss a capon for roasting. Boil the liver, 
 and mince it as finely as possible. Pour a 
 little cream over a cupful of finely-grated bread- 
 crumbs. Let them soak for half an hour. 
 Shred finely four ounces of suet, a tea-spoonful 
 ot scalded parsley, and four or five button mush- 
 rooms cut small and fried. Mix these well to- 
 gether with a little pepper and salt, and add 
 the yolks of two eggs. Stuff the capon with 
 the mixture, and roast it before a clear fire. 
 Serve with sauce flavoured with chopped gher- 
 kins. Time to roast, one hour. Probable cost, 
 2s. 6d. to 4s. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 CAPON, ROASTED, WITH TRUFFLES. 
 
 Clean, wash,, and peel some truffles, and cut 
 them in slices about a quarter of an inch thick ; 
 fry them in butter, and season with pepper, 
 salt, and nutmeg. Put them inside the capon, 
 fasten some buttered paper over it, and roast it 
 before a clear fire. This dish is frequently 
 served without any sauce, but, if liked, a little 
 may be sent to table with it, made of good 
 melted butter, flavoured with a quarter of a 
 pound of truffles, peeled, and pounded in a 
 mortar with half an ounce of butter, and pressed 
 through a sieve. Time to roast, one hour or 
 more. Sufficient for four or five persons. Prob- 
 able cost, from 2s. 6d. to 4s. 
 
 CAPON, STEWED. 
 
 Blanch and boil, as if for curry, three-quarters 
 of a pound of Patna rice. While it is cooking, 
 fry three sliced onions in three table-spoonfuls 
 of butter or dripping, and with them a fine 
 capon cut into joints. When fried, put the fowl 
 and the onions into a stewpan, with sufficient 
 nicely-flavoured stock to cover them, and let 
 them stew gently until tender. Mixi a little of 
 the gravy with the rice, season it, then spread it 
 on a dish, and lay the stewed capon upon it. 
 Thicken the gravy, and pour a little of it upon 
 the dish, and send the rest to table in a tureen. 
 Time to stew, about an hour. Probable cost, 
 from 2s. 6d. to 4s. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 CAPON, STEWED (k fa Fran^aise). 
 
 Draw, and truss for boiling-, a fine capon. 
 Rub it over with a little lemon-juice, and put 
 it into a stewpan with some slices of bacon 
 under and over it. Cover it with some nicely- 
 flavoured stock, salted and peppered, and ad- 
 ditionally flavoured with an onion stuck with 
 three or four cloves. Let it stew gently for an 
 hour, then take it up, strain the gravy, and 
 thicken it with a little flour and butter, and 
 add a glass of white wine. Pour the gravy 
 round the dish, and serve. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. Probable cost, from 2s. 6d. to 4s. 
 
 CAPON, STUFFED AND BOILED. 
 
 Make a forcemeat of the grated rind of half a 
 lemon, a dessert-spoonful of chopped parsley, 
 two ounces of bread-crumbs, two ounces of 
 butter, one and a half dozen oysters, pepper 
 
 and salt. Stuff a large capon with this mixtiire, 
 and boil it for two hours in a jug of water placed 
 in a saucepan of boiling water. Beat the yolks 
 of two eggs into half a pint of milk or creai^, 
 add six oysters, and warm without boiling. 
 Pour over the fowl, and serve. Probable cost, 
 63. 6d. 
 
 CAPON, STUFFED AND ROASTED. 
 
 Shred four ounces of suet very finely, and mix 
 with it half the quantity of ham, half a pound 
 of bread-crumbs, a tea-spoonful of chopped 
 parsley, and the same of marjoram and thyme, 
 two or three grains of cayenne, a little salt and 
 pounded mace, and an inch of lemon-rind finely 
 chopped. When these are thoroughly mixed, 
 bind them together with two eggs, well beaten. 
 Stuff the capon with this forcemeat, cover it 
 with buttered paper, and roast it. Baste it 
 frequently. Serve it with some good brown 
 gravy and bread-sauce in a tureen. Time to 
 roast, one hour. Probable cost, from 2s. 6d. 
 to 4s. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 CAPON, STUFFED WITH CHESTNUTS. 
 
 Pare a dozen large sound chestnuts, and 
 blanch them like almonds. Stew them very 
 gently for twenty minutes. Drain and pound 
 them; then mix with them the liver of the 
 capon boiled and finely minced, two table- 
 spoonfuls of fine bread-crumbs, a piece of fresh 
 butter the size of a small egg, half a tea-spoon- 
 ful of lemon-rind, a tea-spoonful of chopped 
 parsley, a salt-spoonful of salt and the same of 
 pepper, and a little nutmeg. Bind the force- 
 meat together with the yolks of two eggs. Fill 
 the capon with this mixture, cover it with oiled 
 paper, and roast it before a good fire. When it 
 is sufficiently cooked, brush it over with beaten 
 egg, dredge fine bread-crumbs over it, and brown 
 it. Serve with half a pint of good melted 
 butter, to which has been added three chopped 
 gherkins. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. to 4s. Time 
 to roast, one hour. Suf&cient for four or five 
 persons. 
 CAPON, TO TRUSS FOR BOILING. 
 
 Pick the capon very clean ; singe it if neces- 
 sary. Cut off the neck and the claws, and draw 
 the bird, being very careful not to break the 
 gall-bladder, as it would make anything that it 
 touched very bitter. Preserve the liver and the 
 gizzard. Fasten back the skin of the neck with 
 a skewer. Press the feet down closely, with the 
 fingers loosen the top skin of the legs, and put 
 them under. Put the liver and the gizzard 
 in the pinions, then pass a skewer through the 
 first joint of the wing, the middle of the leg, 
 and through the body, and fasten the wing and 
 the leg on the other side with the same skewer. 
 Turn the wings over the back, fasten a string 
 over the legs and the skewer to keep every- 
 thing in its proper place. Make a little slit in 
 the apron of the fowl, and put the parson's nose 
 through it. 
 CAPON, TO TRUSS FOR ROASTING. 
 
 Cut off the claws and the first joint of the 
 wings, and make a slit at the back of the neck 
 just large enough to admit of the bird being 
 drawn. Preserve the liver, and the gizzard, and 
 be careful not to break the gall-bladder. Turn 
 the wings under, bring the legs close, twist the 
 
CAP 
 
 102 
 
 CAR 
 
 head round with the bill to the breast, and pass 
 a strong skewer through the wing, the middle 
 of the leg, the liver and gizzard, the body, the 
 head, and the wing and leg on the other side. 
 Tie the legs close to the apron with some 
 strong thread. Truss the bird as firmly as pos- 
 sible, and place a piece of oiled paper over the 
 breast before roasting. When it is intended to 
 stuff the capon, the head may be cut right off, 
 and the skin of the neck skewered over. 
 
 CAPSICUM, ESSENCE OF. 
 
 To one pint of brandy or rectified spirits of 
 wine add one ounce of the best cayenne pepper. 
 Let it infuse for three weeks, then pour off the 
 clear liquid, and bottle for use. It is very con- 
 venient to have this essence for the flavouring 
 of sauces, etc., as the taste is equally and quickly 
 diffused by stirring a little with some boiling 
 sauce, Cayenne varies so much in strength 
 that the quantity to be put with each pint of 
 sauce or gravy must be regulated by the taste 
 of the cook. 
 
 CAPSICUMS, PICKLED. 
 
 Capsicums may be pickled either green or 
 red. They are finest and ripest in September 
 and October. If they can be obtained from the 
 garden it is beat to gather the pods with the 
 stalks before they are red. Put the capsicums 
 into a jar. Boil sufficient vinegar to cover 
 *ihem, allowing a heaped tea-spoonful of salt, 
 And half an ounce of powdered mace, to every 
 quart of vinegar. Pour this, while hot, upon 
 the pods, and when cold, tie down closely with 
 a bladder. They will be fit for use in five or 
 six weeks. Probable cogt, 48. 6d. to 6s. per 
 hundred. 
 
 CAPTAIN'S BISCUITS. 
 
 Put a pinch of salt with as much flour as may 
 be required, and make it into a paste with a 
 little new milk. Knead it thoroughly till it is 
 firm and stiff, then divide it into balls, and 
 form into cakes about a quarter of an inch in 
 thickness. Prick them with a fork, and bake 
 for about fifteen minutes. 
 
 CARAMEL, OR BURNT SUGAR. 
 
 Put a quarter of a pound of finely-sifted 
 sugar into a preserving-pan, place it on a moder- 
 ate fire, and stir it with a wooden spoon till it 
 becomes liquid ; then stir it constantly until it 
 is a dark brown. Add one pint of cold water. 
 Draw it to the side of the fire, and let it sim- 
 mer very gently for a quarter of an hour longer. 
 Strain, and bottle for use. If the fire is too 
 fierce, the caramel will be discoloured. This 
 browning should be added to the sauce the last 
 thing. Time, forty minutes. Probable cost. 
 Id. per pint. When wanted, pour a few drops 
 at a time into the tureen until the colour is 
 what is required. 
 
 CARAMEL, OR SUGAR FOR SWEETS, ETC. 
 
 Put one pound of sugar into a preserving-pan 
 with half a pint of cold water. Let it stand 
 three or four minutes, then place it on the fire, 
 and let it boil, skimming and stirring it con- 
 stantly. It will be first a syrup, then begin to 
 bubble and look white, when, if it is intended 
 for caramel, it must have the juice of a lemon 
 stirred in with it, or it will turn to sugar again. 
 Dip a stick into it, then plunge it into cold 
 
 water, and when the sugar which drops from 
 the stick snaps like glass, it is ready. It must 
 be poured out instantly. If it is to be used for 
 sugar spinning, the pan must be placed in 
 another of cold water. Have the moulds ready 
 oiled, and throw the sugar over in threads with 
 a fork or spoon. 
 
 CARAMEL CUSTARD. 
 
 Put four ounces of loaf sugar and one gill of 
 water into a saucepan, and let them boil 
 quickly without stirring until the syrup be- 
 comes a dark coffee colour. Pour this quickly 
 round some small dry moulds, when it will 
 immediately harden. Beat together the yolks 
 of four eggs and the whites of two, but do 
 not froth them. Add half a pint of milk and 
 half a table-spoonful of castor sugar, and flavour 
 with vanilla. Pour into the moulds. Steam 
 them very gently -until set. Turn out care- 
 fully, and serve hot or cold. Cost, about lOd. 
 for six. 
 
 CARAMEL PUDDING. 
 
 Put into a small saucepan four ounces of 
 castor sugar and sufficient water to moisten it; 
 stir until it turns brown, add a little essence of 
 vanilla, and four table-spoonfuls of water. 
 Have ready a warm basin. Mix a pint of warm 
 milk with three well-beaten eggs, and four 
 ounces of loaf sugar. Brush the inside of the 
 basin with the burnt sugar all over, and pour 
 in the mixture. Put a saucer on top, and a 
 cloth over that, and place in a saucepan of boil- 
 ing water so that the water does not boil into 
 the pudding. Boil for thirty-five minutes, and 
 then leave till cold. Turn out, and pour the re- 
 mainder of the syrup over the pudding. Prob- 
 able cost, 6d. 
 
 CARAWAY BISCUITS. 
 
 Rub a quarter of a pound of butter into a 
 pound of flour, then add a quarter of a pound 
 of sifted sugar, three eggs well beaten, and a 
 few caraway-seeds. Make the mixture into a 
 stiff paste, adding a little water if necessary. 
 Roll it about a quarter of an inch thick, stamp 
 it out in rounds, and prick these with a fork. 
 Place the biscuits on floured tins, or on a wire 
 frame, and bake them in a quick oven about 
 ten minutes. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. 
 
 CARAWAY BRANDY. 
 
 Dissolve half a pound of finely-sifted ginger 
 in one quart of brandy, and sprinkle on the top 
 one ounce of whole caraway-seeds. Let them 
 remain for ten days in the jar, then strain the 
 liquid and bottle it for use. This makes an ex- 
 cellent stomachic. Probable cost, 3d. per pint, 
 exclusive of the brandy. 
 
 CARDINAL SAUCE. 
 
 Take half a pint of bechamel sauce, one ounce 
 of butter, the juice of half a lemon, half an 
 ounce of lobster coral, a, dessert-spoonful of 
 meat glaze, half a gill of mushroom liquor, salt, 
 pepper, and nutmeg. Eeduce the sauce in a 
 stewpan with the mushroom liquor, season with 
 salt, pepper, and a pinch of grated nutmeg, 
 add the lemon juice, and whisk in the butter 
 and lobster coral. Strain through a tamis, 
 return into the stewpan, stir in the meat 
 
 flaze, and keep hot until required for serving, 
 robabie costj Is. 
 
CAR 
 
 103 
 
 CAR 
 
 CARDOONS. 
 
 Cardoons have long been employed in French 
 cookery, and are now a good deal culfivated in 
 England, but they require such rich seasoning 
 that they are scarcely fit for domestic cookery. 
 The stalks of the inner leaves are the parts 
 which are eaten. They should be cut into strips 
 about four inches long, and the prickles removed 
 with a flannel. They are generally blanched for 
 
 CARDOONS, BOILED. 
 
 Choose a few heads of sound white cardoons. 
 Cut them into pieces about six inches long, 
 remove the prickles, and blanch them in boil- 
 ing water for a quarter of an hour. Scrape off 
 the skin and tie them in bundles. Cover them 
 with nicely-flavoured stock, and boil till tender. 
 Brain them, and serve on toast, with plenty of 
 'jood melted butter. Suflicieut, five or six heads 
 or a dish. 
 
 ?; 
 
 CARDOONS, FRIED. 
 
 Proceed as above, and when the cardoons are 
 tender, melt a little butter in a pan, drain the 
 cardoons, dredge a little flour over, and fry 
 them till they are nicely browned. Send good 
 melted butter to table with them. Time to fry, 
 ten minutes. Sufficient, five or six heads for a 
 dish. 
 
 CARDOONS, STEWED. 
 
 Prepare the cardoons as above, Then put 
 them into a stewpan and cover with a little 
 good gravy, and stew very gently till tender. 
 When sufficiently cooked, thicken the gravy 
 with a little flour and butter, season with 
 cayenne and salt, and add a glass of sherry. 
 Put the cardoons on a dish, and pour the gravy 
 over them. Sufficient, five or six for a dish. 
 
 CARP. 
 
 Carp is a pond rather than a river fish, and 
 requires a thoroughly good sauce to be served 
 with it. It is not often offered for sale, but is 
 very useful for families residing in the country, 
 as it may frequently be obtained when no other 
 fish can be. The best carp are those of a 
 medium size. They are better if kept a day 
 before they are used. From May to November 
 they are not good for food. The head is con- 
 sidered the best part. Owing to their habit of 
 burying themselves in mud, the flesh of these 
 fish has often a disagreeable muddy taste; in 
 cleaning them, therefore, care should be taken 
 to remove the gills, as they are always muddy, 
 to rub a little salt down the backbone, and to 
 lay them in strong salt and water for a couple of 
 hours; then wash them in clear spring water. 
 A good plan also is to put a piece of the crumb 
 of bread with the fish, and remove it before it 
 is served. There is a small species of this fish 
 called the Crucian carp which is good for 
 nothing. 
 CARP, BAKED. 
 
 Wash, scale, and draw the fish. Squeeze over 
 it the juice of two lemons, and let it remain in 
 this for an hour, turning it at the end of half an 
 hour. Put it, into a dish, pour upon it three 
 ounces of oiled butter, and strew over it two 
 minced shallots. Cover it with oiled writing- 
 paper, and bake it gently, bastingf it frequently. 
 When it is nearly baked, melt three ounces of 
 
 butter in a stewpan, and stir smoothly into it a 
 table-spoonful of fiour and a cupful of boiling 
 water, a small salt-spoonful of salt, and a little 
 cayenne. Let the sauce boil; then add to it 
 gradually half a pint of new milk or cream, 
 and, at the last moment, draw it from the fire 
 and add the juice of a lemon. Mince finely four 
 large gherkins, stir them into the sauce, and 
 pour it over the fish. Time to bake, one hour. 
 Sufficient for two persons. 
 
 CARP, BOILED. 
 
 Wash, scale, and draw a carp, preserving the 
 liver and roe. Put it into boiling salt and 
 water, allowing a table-spoonful of salt to two 
 quarts of water, and let it boil gently till it is 
 ready. Make a sauce with half a pint of the 
 liquor in which the fish was boiled, a cupful of 
 port, two shallots finely minced, two boned 
 anchovies, a table-spoonful of soy, salt and 
 cayenne! Let these boil gently tiU the ancho- 
 vies are dissolved, then thicken the sauce with 
 flour and butter, and add the liver finely 
 minced. Gtarnish with the roe fried, and slices 
 of lemon. Time to boil, from twenty to thirty 
 minutes.. Sufficient for two persons. 
 CARP (en Matelote). 
 
 Wash and prepare a carp, and, if obtainable, 
 an eel, and cUt them into pieces about an inch 
 and a half long. Put three ounces of butter 
 into a saucepan, let it melt, then fry in it one 
 dozen small onions. Dredge in a t^ble-spoonful 
 of flour, and stir in smoothly and very gradu- 
 ally a cupful of red wine and the same of 
 broth. Add salt and cayenne, two bay-leaves, 
 a bunch of savoury herbs, and a clove of garlic. 
 Let all simmer gently for a few minutes, then 
 put in the pieces of eel, and, ten minutes after- 
 wards, the carp, with the roe. Simmer for a 
 quarter of an hour more. Eemove the herbs 
 and the garlic, and pour the sauce hot over the 
 fish. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Prob- 
 able coat of the eel, 6d. per pound. Sufficient 
 for ^ojfjr or five persons. 
 
 CARP, FRIED. 
 
 Clean and empty the fish, dry it well with a 
 cloth, split it open and lay it flat, being care- 
 ful to remove the gall-atone, which will be found 
 in the head, or it may give a bitterness to the 
 dish. Dredge it well with flour, and sprinkle 
 salt and cayenne over it, then fry it in plenty 
 of hot butter or dripping till it is lightly 
 browned. Lay it on some blotting paper to 
 drain off the fat. Garnish with fried aippets, 
 and the roes, also fried. Serve with anchovy 
 sauce. Time, about twenty minutes. Sufficient 
 for two persons. 
 CARP PIE. 
 
 Line the edges of a pie-dish with a good light 
 crust. Stuff a medium-sized carp with oyster 
 forcemeat, sew it up to prevent this escaping, 
 and lay it in the middle of the dish. Put round 
 it pieces of eel about an inch and a half in 
 length, which have been already partly cooked. 
 Take three-quarters of a pint of the liquor in 
 which the eel was stewed, put with it a cupful 
 of port, a little salt and cayenne, an onion stuck 
 with four cloves, and a blade of mace. Let 
 these simmer gently until they are reduced to 
 half a pint of gravy, which may be thickened 
 with a little flour and butter. Pour this over 
 
CAR 
 
 104 
 
 bAK 
 
 the fish, cover with crust, and bake in a moder- 
 ate oven for one hour. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. 
 
 CARP ROE. 
 
 Put the roes of three or four carp into a stew- 
 pan, strew a little salt over them, and cover 
 with vinegar. Boil them for ten or fifteen 
 minutes, then chop them up with half their 
 bulk in bread-crumbs, the finely-chopped rind of 
 a lemon, a little salt and cayenne, and a little 
 
 f rated nutmeg. Make them up into cakes, and 
 ake in a Dutch oven, with a little butter, till 
 they are hot. Time to bake, a few minutes. 
 
 CARP, SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Dissolve about one ounce of butter in a sauce- 
 pan, and stir into it very smoothly a dessert- 
 spoonful of flour, a little gravy, a cupful of 
 good cream, and two anchovies chopped finely. 
 Let it boil, stir it well, then add a table-spoonful 
 of soy, season with salt, and, just before serving, 
 squeeze the juice of a lemon into the sauce. 
 
 CARP, STEWED. 
 
 Cleanse a carp thoroughly, and cut it into 
 slices, then put it into a stewpan, with a quarter 
 of a pound of bacon and a quarter of a^pound of 
 veal cut into slices, four small onions stuck with 
 four cloves, two carrots, a sprig of .thyme, a 
 bunch of parsley, half a dozen chives, and, if 
 liked, half a clove of garlic. The vegetables 
 must be sliced and the herbs chopped. Pour a 
 glassful of white wine over the carp, and let it 
 simmer for two or three minutes, then add equal 
 parts of white wine and stock, sufficient to cover 
 the fish and vegetables. Let them simmer 
 gently for an hour, thicken the sauce with a 
 Uttle flour and butter, add pepper, salt, and 
 nutmeg, and boil it, stirring continually, until 
 it is a proper consistence. Time to prepare, 
 one hour and a half. Sufficient for one or two 
 persons. 
 
 CARROT. 
 
 This vegetable is almost invariably sent to 
 table with boiled beef Young carrots should be 
 washed and brushed, not scraped, before cook- 
 ing, then rubbed with a clean coarse cloth after 
 boiling, but older carrots will require scrap- 
 ing. Young carrots need to be cooked about 
 half an hour, and fully-grown ones from ore 
 hour and a half to two hours. The red is the 
 best part. In order to ascertain if the root is 
 sufficiently cooked, stick a fork into it. When 
 they feel soft they are ready for serving. They 
 are excellent for flavouring soups, stews, etc. 
 
 CARROT CHEESECAKES. 
 
 Boil a moderate-sized carrot until tender. 
 Pound it in a mortar, and pass the pulp through 
 a fine hair sieve. Mix with it an ounce of 
 oiled butter, two dessert-spoonfuls of washed 
 currants, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, half a 
 nutmeg grated, a table-spoonful of fresh curd, 
 and a well-beaten egg. Line some patty-pans 
 with good puff paste, half fill them with the 
 mixture, and bake in a good oven for twenty 
 minutes. Probable cost, about Id. each. 
 
 CARROT FRITTERS. 
 
 Boil a large carrot until it is quile tender. 
 Beat it to a pulp, pass it through a sieve, and 
 mix with it two table-spoonfuls of cream, the 
 
 same of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and two 
 eggs well beaten. Shape into fritters and fry 
 in hot lard or dripping, and serve them with 
 good brown sauce. Sufficient for two persons. 
 
 CARROT PIE. 
 
 This is a favourite dish with vegetarians. 
 Wash and slice the carrots, and parboil them. 
 Put them in a dish edged with a light crust. 
 Add pepper and salt, and pour a little water 
 over them. Cover them with crust, and bake 
 the pie in a moderate oven. Time to bake, 
 three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost of 
 carrots, 6d. or 8d. per bunch. Sufficient, a 
 moderate-sized pie for six persons. 
 CARROT PUDDING, BAKED OR BOILED. 
 
 Boil some large carrots till they are tender, 
 pass them through a sieve, and mix one pound 
 of the pulp with half a pound of finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs, six ounces of finely-shredded suet, 
 and a quarter of a pound each of stoned raisins, 
 washed currants, and brown sugar. Mix these 
 ingredients well together, and add a little 
 grated nutmeg, a large pinch of salt, and three 
 eggs well beaten, together with as much new 
 milk as will make a thick batter. If baked, put 
 the mixture into a buttered pie-dish, and bake 
 it in a moderate oven; if boiled, put it in a, 
 well-oiled mould, tie it in a cloth, and boil or 
 steam it. Serve with sweet sauce. Time to 
 bake, one hour and a half ; to boil, three hours. 
 Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost. Is. 4d. 
 
 CARROT SAUCE. 
 
 Take half a pint of good melted butter. Bring 
 it to a boil, then stir into it two table-spoonfuls 
 of mashed carrots, and a little salt and pepper. 
 Time, ten minutes. Probable cost, 4d. Suf- 
 ficient for two pounds of stewed cutlets. 
 CARROT SOUP. 
 
 Put any bones that you may have into three 
 quarts of stock or water, with three turnips, 
 three onions, a head of celery or half a tea- 
 spoonful of celery-seed, two bay-leaves, and the 
 red part of ten good-sized carrots, cut off in 
 slices. Stew the vegetables till tender, then 
 take out the carrots, pound them in a mortar, 
 mix with them a little of the liquor, and pass 
 them through a coarse sieve. Strain the rest of 
 the liquid, and return it to the saucepan ; put 
 with it the pulped carrots, and let it boil till it 
 is as thick as pea-soup. Season with pepper and 
 salt, and serve. Time, four hours. Probable 
 cost, 3d. per quart. Sufficient for six persons. 
 CARROT SOUP (maigre). 
 
 Take two large onions, with eight large 
 carrots (which have been washed and scraped, 
 the red part cut into thin slices and the yellow 
 part left out), one turnip, two heads of celery, 
 or one tea-spoonful of celery-seed, and six 
 ounces of the crumb of bread. Put three quarts 
 of water into a saucepan, with a piece of soda 
 the size of a pea. Let this boil ; then put in the 
 above ingredients, with a little cayenne pepper, 
 salt, and mace. When they are soft, take out 
 the vegetables and rub them through a coarse 
 sieve; replace them, and add to the soup, when 
 boiling, a large breakfast-cupful of cream or 
 new milk. The soup should be as thick as 
 cream. Time, two and a half hours. Probable 
 cost, l^d. per pint. Sufficient for six persons. 
 
GAR 
 
 105 
 
 CAR 
 
 CARROT SOUP WITH RICE. 
 
 Wash, clean, prepare, and slice eight carrots, 
 eight turnips, eight small onions stuck with one 
 or two cloves, a salt-spoonful of celery-seed 
 bruised and tied in a muslin bag, and a slice of 
 lean ham cut into small pieces. Put these into 
 a stewpan with a piece of butter the size of a 
 large egg, move them constantly, and when 
 they are nicely browned, add, a little at a time, 
 three quarts of good stock. Simmer until the 
 vegetables are quite tender. Press them 
 through a coarse sieve with the back of a spoon, 
 return them to the saucepan, season with pejmer 
 and salt, and boil twenty minutes longer. The 
 soup should be of the consistency of very thick 
 cream. Place some boiled rice in the tureen, 
 and pour the soup on it. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 CARROTS (a la Crbme). 
 
 Take some very small carrots, clean and put 
 them into boiling water with one table-spoonful 
 of salt, and boil fast till tender ; then drain and 
 return them to the stewpan for a minute, with 
 two table-spoonfuls of cream, a lump of sugar, 
 an ounce of butter, and a sprinkling of pepper. 
 Serve at once. Probable cost, 8d. 
 
 CARROTS (k la Flamande). 
 
 Take a bunch of young carrots, which alone 
 are suitable, wash them well, cut off the heads 
 and points, and place them in boiling water for 
 five minutes. Take them out, drain, rub off 
 the skin with a coarse cloth, cut them into very 
 thin slices, and put them into a saucepan with 
 a cupful of water, a little salt and pepper, and 
 a piece of butter the size of a small egg. Cover 
 them closely, and simmer gently for twenty 
 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally in order 
 that they may be equally cooked. Mix the yolks 
 of two eggs with a cupful of cream, and a 
 dessert-spoonful of finely-chopped parsley. 
 Draw the pan from the fire for a couple of 
 minutes, taking off the cover, put a table-spoon- 
 ful or two of the liquid with the eggs and cream, 
 then pour the whole gradually into the saucepan. 
 Stir the sauce until it thickens, and serve the 
 carrots with the sauce poured over them. Time 
 to stew the carrots, half an hour. Probable cost, 
 8d. per bunch. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 CARROTS (a I'Indienne). 
 
 Braise some young carrots, and let them get 
 cold. Prepare a rich curry sauce as follows. 
 Peel and slice an onion, clean and slice a car- 
 rot, fry both in butter till the onion has acquired 
 a light brown colour ; then add a table-spoonfuls 
 of curry powder and stir for a few seconds. 
 Next add a small sour apple peeled and chopped, 
 moisten with half a gill of tomato puree, and one 
 gill of Espagnole (brown) sauce, and boil for a 
 few minutes. Season to taste. Having made 
 this sauce, have ready two or three hard-boiled 
 eggs, sliced. Slice the cold carrots, and lay 
 them with the sliced egg in the curry sauce, and 
 allow them to heat gradually. Make a wall or 
 border of boiled rice in a dish, garnish with 
 strips of red and green chillies, and fill up the 
 centre with the carrot and curry mixture. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 
 CARROTS (k la Portugaise). 
 
 Clean one pound of young carrots. Warm 
 three table-spoonfuls of salad oil in a stewpan. 
 
 notch and place a clove of garlic in it with a 
 little salt, and when it boils add the carrots. 
 Fry them for about ten or fifteen minutes, 
 shaking the pan from time to time to prevent 
 burning. Drain off the oil. Take half a pint 
 of brown vegetable sauce and add the pulp of 
 four large tomatoes. Strain and add it to the 
 carrots. Draw the pan to the side of the fire, 
 cover tightly, and let its contents simmer until 
 cooked. Then dish. Let the sauce boil up 
 sharply, and pour it over and around the 
 carrots. Serve with croutons fried in oil. 
 Probable cost. Is. 
 
 CARROTS (a la Reine). 
 
 Choose some fine large carrots and cut them 
 into pieces about three inches long ; make them 
 flat at one end and narrow and round at the 
 other, so as to give them the form of cones. 
 Boil them until nearly tender, then place them 
 upright in a saucepan with some good gravy, 
 leaving about an inch of the tops uncovered to 
 prevent their being broken. Boil them until 
 they are sufiiciently cooked, take them out, and 
 arrange them in a dish. Thicken the gravy 
 with a little brown thickening, add a pinch of 
 salt and a small piece of sugar to it, and pour 
 it over them. Time, one hour and a half. 
 
 CARROTS, BOILED. 
 
 W^ash and prepare the carrots. If they are 
 very large they should be halved and sliced. 
 Throw them into plenty of boiling water with, 
 salt in it, keep them boiling, and when a fork 
 can be easily pushed into them they are ready. 
 They may be boiled in the same saucepan with 
 beef, and a few should be placed round the 
 dish and the rest sent to table in a tureen. 
 Melted butter generally accompanies them. 
 Many persons are fond of cold carrots with cold 
 beef. They may be easily warmed up by cover- 
 ing them closely and putting the dish in which 
 they are placed into boiling water. Time, 
 young carrots, half an hour ; fully-grown, from 
 one and a half to two hours. Sufficient, four 
 large carrots for six persons. 
 CARROTS, BRAISED. 
 
 Cut some carrots into rounds about half an 
 inch thick ; boil till nearly cooked ; then put into 
 a stewpan with two ounces of butter, a little 
 cayenne and salt; cook for half an hour care- 
 fully, shaking the pan several times. Put the 
 carrots in a hot vegetable dish, reduce the 
 liquor, pour it over, sprinkle a little chopped 
 parsley in the dish, and serve. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 CARROTS, FRIED. 
 
 Wash and partly boil the carrots whole; cut 
 them into thin slices, dip them in egg and finely- 
 grated bread-crumbs, and fry in hot butter or 
 lard. Serve them piled high on a dish. Cold 
 carrots may be warmed up this way. Time to 
 fry, ten minutes. Sufficient, six carrots for five 
 persons. 
 CARROTS IN THEIR OWN GRAVY. 
 
 Wash, scrape, and slice the carrots. Put 
 them into boiling salt and water, only just 
 enough to cover them, and when they are tender 
 let them boil fast till only two or three spoon- 
 fuls of the liquid remains. Put with the gravy 
 a piece of brown thickening the size of a nut. 
 Shake the saucepan till the gravy is thickened. 
 
CAR 
 
 106 
 
 CAS 
 
 and serve very hot. Time, one hour and a half. 
 Sufficient, six large carrots for five persons. 
 CARROTS, MASHED. 
 
 Scrape off all the skin from some large carrots, 
 and boil them till tender; mash them smoothly, 
 and return them to the saucepan, beat thor- 
 oughly for a few minutes, adding a small piece 
 of butter and a little salt and pepper. Two or 
 three spoonfuls of gravy or a cupful of milk 
 may be added, but in either case let the vege- 
 tables remain over the fire, stirring them con- 
 stantly till they are nearly dry. Time, one hour 
 and a half to boil; ten minutes to dry. Suf- 
 ficient, six large carrots for five persons. 
 
 CARROTS, RED PUREE OF. 
 
 Wash and scrape some fine large carrots. Cut 
 the red part off in thin slices, and boil these for 
 about a quarter of an hour. Take them out, 
 drain, and put them into a saucepan with an 
 onion stuck with two cloves, a little salt and 
 pepper, a small piece of butter, and just enough 
 stock to cover them. Let them boil gently till 
 tender, then pass them through a coarse sieve. 
 Place the pulp, in a stewpan with a quarter of a 
 pound of butter, a little grated nutmeg,^ a small 
 piece' of sugar, and a cupful of stock, and stir 
 until it is thick. The puree may be served with 
 stewed mutton cutlets round it. Time, two 
 iours and a half. Sufficient, eight large carrots 
 for two pounds of cutlets. 
 
 CARROTS, SLICED AND GLAZED. 
 
 Wash and scrape some fine large carrots, and 
 cut them into equal slices. . Partly boil them in 
 salt and water,, drain, and put them into a 
 saucepan with just sufficient stock to cover 
 them, a piece of butter, a little salt, and a good- 
 sized lump of sugar. Boil quickly until the 
 gravy is reduced to glaze. Shake the saucepan 
 over the fire for a few minutes, till all the gravy 
 adheres to the carrots. Tiine, one hour and a 
 half. Probable cost, 6d. or 8d. per bunch. Suf- 
 ficient, six large carrots for five persons. 
 
 CARROTS, STEWED. 
 
 Wash and slice some large carrots, and simmer 
 them till they are nearly tender in as much 
 weak broth as will cover them, then add a cupful 
 of milk, and thicken the sauce with flour and 
 "butter. Season it with pepper and salt. Keep 
 stirring the content? of the saucepan to prevent 
 them burningl Put the carrots into a hot vege- 
 table dish, and pour the gravy over them. 
 Time, one hour and a half. Sufficient, six large 
 carrots for five persons. 
 CARROTS, TO DRESS IN THE GERMAN WAY. 
 
 Melt two ounces of butter in a saucepan. 
 Lay in it six carrots cut into thin slices, with a, 
 little salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and a tea- 
 spoonful of finely-minced onion. Let them re- 
 main until tender, adding every now and then as 
 it is required a little water or stock. Thicken 
 the sauce with a little fiour, and about a quarter 
 of an hour before serving, add one table-spoon- 
 ful of finely-minced parsley. Time, one hour. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 CASSEROLE. 
 
 Correctly speaking, a casserole is a dish which 
 in the first stage is prepared in an omelet- 
 or frying-pan, and then transferred to the cas- 
 serole proper to finish cooking by a long ^ slow 
 
 process. A casserole is a porcelain or earthen 
 vessel, with either one or two handles, having 
 much the appearance of a covered saucepan, 
 and is about as deep as it is broad. Casseroles 
 are used very extensively in French and Italian 
 cookery, and are sent to the table just as they 
 come from the oven. It is a perfect method of 
 cooking, retaining all the juices and flavour of 
 the meat and its adjuncts. It is also in every 
 way conducive to economy, as material which 
 is too tough for ordinary cooking can be done 
 to perfection, and served up in a tender and 
 nutritious condition. It is also of great advan- 
 tage where meals cannot be served with regu- 
 larity, as the food can be kept hot without 
 losing in flavour if the casserole is simply placed 
 in a cool oven, the food being rather improved 
 than otherwise by the prolonged blending of 
 the meat with its juices and flavourings. Dishes 
 cooked in this manner are termed " en casser- 
 ole." The word " casserole " is sometimes ap- 
 plied, as in the case of the following recipes, to 
 a border of potatoes, rice, etc., enclosing a 
 stew, ragout, sweet, or other ppreparation. 
 
 CASSEROLE OF POTATOES. 
 
 Peel and boil some good mealy potatoes, mash 
 them with a little salt, butter, cream, and the 
 yolk of one egg to every pound of potatoes. Beat 
 them two or three minutes over the fire to dry 
 them thoroughly, then place them on a shallow 
 dish, and work them with the hands into the 
 shape' of a raised pie. Leave a hollow in the 
 middle, ornament it with flutings, etc., brush it 
 over vrith beaten egg, and brown it in a quick 
 oven. Fill the inside with a ragoflt or mmce, 
 and serve hot. 
 
 CASSEROLE OF RICE (English method). 
 
 Wash a pound of the best rice in two or three 
 waters, and boil it very gently until it is quite 
 tender but whole. Drain it and beat it well. 
 If for a sweet casserole, use milk, sugar, a little 
 butter, and lemon or other flavouring. If in- 
 tended for meat or fish, stew the rice with water 
 and fat, and season it with salt, pepper, and 
 nutmeg. When quite cool, put a bordering 
 about three inches high and three wide round 
 the edge of a shallow dish, brush it over with 
 egg or clarified butter, and set it in the oven to 
 brown. Then place in the middle the stew, 
 curry, or sweets which are prepared for it. Time 
 to boil the rice, three-quarters of an hour. 
 Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the interior. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 CASSEROLE OF RICE (French method). 
 
 Wash one pound of the best Carolina rice in 
 two or three waters. Drain it, and put it into 
 a stewpan with a quart of water, a large onion, 
 a tea-spoonful of salt, and two ounces of fat. 
 The skimmings of saucepans will answer for this 
 purpose, or fat bacon, but if these are not at 
 hand, use butter. Simmer very gently till the 
 rice is quite soft but whole. Then drain it, and 
 pound it to a paste. Well butter a baking dish 
 or casserole mould, and press the paste into it. 
 Mark the top in the same way as a cover 
 of paste, making the marks rather deep. 
 Pour a little butter over the whole, let 
 it get cold, then turn it out of the mould, 
 and bake it in a very hot oven till it is brightly 
 browned, but not hard. The oven can scarcely 
 
CAS 
 
 107 
 
 CAU 
 
 be too hot for it. Take ofif the marked cover 
 about an inoh in depth. Scoop out the middle, 
 and fill it with whatever is prepared for it. This 
 may_ consist of mincemeat, Irish stew, rechauffe 
 curries, hashes, or macaroni. Pour in a suit- 
 able sauce, replace the cover, and before serving 
 return it to the oven for a few minutes. Time 
 to boil the rice, about three-quarters of an 
 hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the mince- 
 meat, 6d. Sufficient for six persons. 
 CASSEROLE OF RICE, WITH EGGS. 
 
 Prepare the rice as in the preceding recipe. 
 When it has been worked into a stiff paste, line 
 a well-oiled mould with it; a piece pf bread may 
 be put inside, shaped properly, to hold it up, 
 but care must be taken to leave a compact wall 
 all round. When baked, remove the bread, put 
 in the mince or fricassee, and cover the top with 
 poached eggs. Serve very hot. Time, three- 
 quai;ters of an hour to boil the rice. Probable 
 cost. Is., exclusive of the mixture. Sufficient 
 for six persons. 
 
 CASSEROLE, SWEET. 
 
 Prepare the rice as before, using milk instead 
 of water, and butter instead of bacon or other 
 fat. The flavouring may consist of lemon, van- 
 illa, or almond, according to taste. When the 
 pudding is browned, scoop the rice from the 
 middle, leaving, as before, a firm wall all 
 around, and fill the hollow ^ith jam, or a com- 
 pote of any fruit. The latter is, we think, much 
 to be preferred. Sift a, little pounded sugar 
 over the whole before serving. Time to boil the 
 rice, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 
 6d., exclusive of the fruit. Sufficient for a good 
 and pretty dish. 
 
 CAUDLE. 
 
 Caudle is oatmeal gruel, sweetened, with ale, 
 brandy, or wine added to it. It may be made in 
 several ways. The simplest is the following. 
 Mix a table-spoonful of oatmeal with a cupful 
 of cold water. Pour a pint of boiling water or 
 milk over it, return it to the saucepan, and let 
 it boil for four or five minutes, stirring it all the 
 time. Add wine, ale, or brandy, according to 
 taste. Sweeten, and season with nutmeg or 
 ginger. This will be thin caudle ; if it is wanted 
 thick, two table-spoonfuls of oatmeal must be 
 used. Or, mix two table-spoonfuls of oatmeal in 
 a f)int of water. Let it stand one hour. Then 
 strain, and boil it. Sweeten, and add wine, ale, 
 or brandy, with seasoning to taste. Time to 
 boil, twenty minutes. Caudle may be made 
 with flour or ground rice instead of oatmeal. 
 Probable cost, l^d. per pint, exclusive of the 
 wine. Sufficient for one person. 
 CAULIFLOWER. 
 
 This favourite vegetable should be cut early, 
 while the dew is still upon it. Choose those 
 that are close and white, and of medium size. 
 Whiteness is a, sign of quality and freshness. 
 Great care should be taken that there are no 
 caterpillars about the stalk, and, to ensure this, 
 lay the vegetable with its head downwards in 
 cold water and salt for an hour before boiling it ; 
 or, better still, in cold water mixed with a little 
 vinegar. Trim away the outer leaves, and cut 
 the stalk quite close. Cauliflowers are in season 
 from the middle of June till the middle of 
 November. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER (a la BechameT). 
 
 Remove all the green leaves from a cauli- 
 flower, and divide it into good-sized pieces ; par- 
 boil, and then stew it till tender in a little veal 
 broth, with salt, pepper, and a, little piece of 
 mace. When done, take it out, pour a rich 
 bechamel sauce over it, and serve. Probable 
 cost, 8d. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER (a la Franfaise). 
 
 Cut away the stalk and the green leaves, and 
 divide a cauliflower into quarters. Put the 
 branches into a little vinegar and water, then 
 put them and a table-spoonful of salt into a 
 stewpau with some boiling water, and let 
 them boil until they are done. This may be 
 ascertained by taking a little piece between the 
 finger and thumb, and if, though still firm, it 
 gives way easily, it is sufficiently cooked. Drain 
 the cauliflower and arrange it neatly in a dish. 
 Pour over it a pint of good melted butter. Time 
 to boil, about twelve minutes. Probable cost, 
 4d. for a medium-sized cauliflower. Sufficient 
 one for two persons. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER (a la Mayonnaise). 
 
 Take the required number of cauliflowers, 
 strip them of their leaves, and thoroughly wash 
 them; put them into boiling water with butter 
 and salt. When they are done, but still firm, 
 take the saucepan from the fire and let them 
 cool in the water. When cold, drain them, and 
 put them into a marinade of oil, vinegar, and 
 salt to soak for two hours. Dish them in the 
 form of a pyramid, mask them with a white 
 mayonnaise sauce, and place round them a, 
 border of aspic jelly, cut in various fancy shapes. 
 Probable cost, 9d. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER (k la Polonaise). 
 
 Trim, wash; and drain a nice firm cauliflower, 
 and divide the head into pieces of about equal 
 size. Cook in salted water till they are about 
 three parts done. Pour off the water, add an 
 ounce of fresh butter, season with pepper and 
 grated nutmeg, and finish in the oven. Dish up 
 on a hot vegetable dish, and sprinkle brown 
 bread-crumbs over. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER (a la Sauce Blanche). 
 
 Cut the stalks off close, trim the leaves, and 
 put the cauliflower into a little vinegar and 
 water to draw out the insects. Put it head 
 downwards in boiling salt and water, and boil 
 it till it is done. As cauliflowers will continue 
 to cook, though more slowly, if left in hot water, 
 should they be a little too soon they may be 
 taken off the fire before they are quite ready. 
 Take a little piece of the stalk between the finger 
 and thumb, and 'if it yields easily it is done. 
 Drain the vegetable and arrange it in a hot dish, 
 and pour over it a little French white sauce made 
 by adding (of the fire) the yolk of an egg to half 
 a pint of good melted butter. Probable cost, 
 4d. to 6d. 
 CAULIFLOWER (au Gratin). 
 
 Cleanse, trim, and quarter one or two large 
 cauliflowers. Throw them into boiling water, 
 and let them remain for five minutes ; drain and 
 boil them in plenty of salted water until they 
 are ready. Whilst they are boiling mix smoothly 
 together in a stewpan an ounce of butter and 
 an ounce of flour, add a quarter of a pint of 
 
CAU 
 
 108 
 
 CAU 
 
 cold water, and a little pepper and salt. Let 
 the sauce boil for ten minutes, and keep stir- 
 ring it. Put in with it an ounce of grated 
 Parmesan cheese and one table-spoonful of 
 cream, and take the saucepan from the fire. 
 Cut the cauliflowers into neat pieces; lay half 
 of these in a tureen, pour a little of the sauce 
 over them, and add the remainder of the vege- 
 tables and the rest of the sauce. Sprinkle a 
 large table-spoonful of bread-raspings and 
 another of grated Parmesan over the top, and 
 bake the preparation in a hot oven until it is 
 nicely browned. Serve very hot. Time to 
 brown, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost. 
 Is. 2d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER, BOILED. 
 
 Cut the stalk close to the bottom, and pare 
 away the tops of the leaves, leaving a circle or 
 shortened leaf-stalks all round. Put the cauli- 
 flower head downwards into a little vinegar and 
 water for a quarter of an hour, as this will be 
 sure to draw out the insects. Put it into a pan 
 of boiling water, with a table-spoonful of salt in 
 it. Some persons prefer milk and water. Ke- 
 move the scum carefully as it rises, or the cauli- 
 flower will be discoloured. Boil till tender. 
 This may be ascertained by taking a little piece 
 of the stalk between the finger and thumb, and 
 if it yields easily to pressure it is ready. Drain 
 and serve. Put a lump of butter the size of an 
 egg into a saucepan with a dessert-spoonful of 
 flour. Mix smoothly. Add salt to taste and 
 half a pint of water. Stir the sauce till ft boils, 
 and strain over the vegetable. Time : a large 
 cauliflower, fifteen to twenty-five minutes; a 
 small one, twelve to fifteen minutes. Sufficient, 
 a small one for one person. Probable cost, 
 3d. to 6d. 
 CAULIFLOWER, CURRIED (au Gratin). 
 
 Boil a good-sized cauliflower, previously 
 trimmed and washed in salted water. When 
 done, drain, and place in a fire-proof dish ; sea- 
 son with pepper and salt, and cover over com- 
 pletely with a well-reduced white sauce flavoured 
 with curry powder. Sprinkle with flnely-grated 
 cheese and bread-crumbs; place tiny bits of 
 butter here and there on top, and bake in <« 
 very hot oven for ten minutes, so as to brown 
 the surface. Serve very hot, with boiled rice. 
 Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER FRITTERS. 
 
 Sprinkle a little cayenne over some cooked 
 sprigs of cauliflower, dip each one separately in 
 batter, and fry for three minutes in boiling fat. 
 Arrange in a heap on a hot dish, and garnish 
 with crisp parsley. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER, GENOA FASHION. 
 
 Take some cold cooked cauliflower, sprinkle 
 with grated cheese, and put into a dish that has 
 been buttered and strewn with cheese. Sprinkle 
 bread-crumbs on this, pour butter over, then 
 more bread-crumbs. Put the dish in a brisk 
 oven until the top is brown. Probable cost. 6d. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER, MOULDED, WITH SAUCE. 
 
 Boil four large white cauliflowers in a little 
 thin flour and water until tender, then cut off 
 the stalks and press them head downwards into 
 a hot basin. Turn them into a tureen, and pour 
 round them a little tomato or piquante sauce. 
 
 Before serving, place the stalks neatly round 
 them. They snould look like one immense cauli- 
 flower. Time, fifteen to twenty-five minutes to 
 boil. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Prob- 
 able cost, 4d. or 6d. each. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER, PICKLED. 
 
 This pickle should be made about the begin- 
 ning of August. Choose firm, fresh, white 
 heads, and let them be cut on a dry day. Pare 
 away the leaves and the stem, and place the 
 flowers for flve minutes in boiling water, but do 
 hot let them boil up. Drain them, and cut 
 them into convenient-sized pieces, and leave 
 them on a sieve to dry. Half flU jars with the 
 flowers, cover with cold vinegar in which spices 
 have been boiled, allowing a quart of vinegar to 
 two ounces of peppercorns, a salt-spoonful of 
 cayenne, an ounce of ginger, and half an ounce 
 of mace. Cover closely. Probable cost. Is. per 
 pint jar. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER SAUCE. 
 
 Make a pint of good white sauce. Boil a 
 cauliflower till tender, drain, and chop it small, 
 then stir it into the boiling sauce, let it remain 
 over the fire for a minute or two, and serve. 
 Time, from twenty to thirty minutes. Probable 
 cost, from 4d. to 6d. per head. Sufficient for a 
 pint and a half of sauce. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER SOUP (maigreV 
 
 Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a 
 stewpan, let it melt, then stir into it, very 
 smoothly, three dessert-spoonfuls of curry 
 powder, and a tea^spoonful of celery seed. Slice 
 into it a large cauliflower, a large onion, and a 
 table-spoonful of French beans. Fry the vege- 
 tables gently for a few minutes, then add, 
 gradually, three pints of boiling water, or the 
 water in which cauliflowers have been boiled. 
 Simmer gently till the vegetables are reduced to 
 a pulp, then strain the soup, and return it to the 
 saucepan. Add a little salt and pepper. Put 
 in a few sprigs of boiled cauliflower before serv- 
 ing it. A glass of white wine will improve the 
 soup. Serve with boiled rice, and lay a slice of 
 the crumb of bread toasted at the bottom of the 
 tureen. Time, two hours. Probable cost. 
 Is. 2d. for this quantity. Sufficient for three 
 or four persons. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER, WITH PARMESAN CHEESE.' 
 
 Choose three or four young, firm, white cauli- 
 flowers, cut off the stalks and the stems, making 
 them flat, so that they will stand nicely in the 
 dish. Cleanse them thoroughly, and boil 
 them until tender, but not sufficiently so to run 
 any risk of their breaking. Dish them in such a 
 way as to make them look like one cauliflower, 
 and powder them thickly with grated Parmesan 
 cheese. Pour a good sauce over this. When it is 
 firmly set, add another layer of cheese, and strew- 
 over this some finely-grated bread-crumbs. The 
 sauce may be made thus. Eub a table-spoonful of 
 flour into half an ounce of fresh butter, mix it 
 smoothly over the fire, and add very gradually 
 a breakfast-cupful of water, one pinch of salt, 
 and a small pinch of pepper. Stir it constantly 
 till it boils, then take it from the fire for a 
 minute or two, and add slowly the yolk of an 
 egg mixed with the juice of half a lemon and a 
 tea-spoonful of water. Stir until the whole is 
 
CAU 
 
 109 
 
 CEC 
 
 well mixed. Brown the cauliflower with a 
 salamander or in a hot oven, pour a little sauce 
 round, and serve hot, as a third course dish. 
 Time to boil the cauliflower, twelve to twenty 
 minutes. Probable cost, 4d. or 6d. each. Suf- 
 ficient for six persons. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER WITH STUFFING. 
 
 Choose a saucepan the exact size of the dish 
 intended to be used. Cleanse a large, firm, 
 white cauliflower, and cut it into sprigs ; throw 
 these into boiling salted water for two min- 
 utes ; then take them out, drain, and pack them 
 tightly with the heads downwards, in the sauce- 
 pan, the bottom of which must have been pre- 
 viously covered with thin slices of bacon. Pill 
 up the vacant spaces with a stuffing made of 
 three table-spoonfuls of finely-minced veal, the 
 same of beef suet, four table-spoonfuls of bread- 
 crumbs, a little pepper and salt, a tea-spoonful 
 of chopped parsley, a tea-spoonful of minced 
 chives, and a dozen small mushrooms finely 
 chopped. Strew these ingredients over the cauli- 
 flowers in alternate layers, and pour over them 
 three well-beaten eggs. When these are well 
 soaked, add sufficient nicely-flavoured stock to 
 cover the whole. Simmer gently till the cauli- 
 flowers are tender, and the sauce very much re- 
 duced; then turn the contents of the saucepan 
 upside down on a hot dish, and the cauliflowers 
 will be found standing in a savoury mixture. 
 Tjme, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 
 4d. to 6d. for a large cauliflower. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 CAVEACH FISH. 
 
 Clean some large fish, either cod, salmon, or 
 mackerel, and cut them into slices. Eub each 
 slice well with pepper, salt, and nutmeg; and 
 fry them in hot butter or lard till they are 
 lightly browned. Let them get cold, then lay 
 them in jars. Boil some spices in vinegar, allow- 
 ing two finely-minced shallots, two cloves, a 
 blade of mace, a quarter of an ounce of black 
 peppercorns, and two bay-leaves to a quart of 
 vinegar. Nearly fill the jars with this, when 
 cold, and put on the top a little salad-oil. Tie 
 them down closery. The fish will keep good for 
 acme months. It should be prepared when the 
 flsh is in full season, and when served, the pieces 
 should be piled in the middle of the dish, and a 
 salad served round them. Probable cost, cod, 
 6d. per pound; salmon, Is. 2d. per pound; 
 mackerel, 4d. to 6d. 
 
 CAVIARE AND MOCK CAVIARE. 
 
 The true caviare must be bought. It is 
 usually eaten as a relish, with dry toast, pepper, 
 lemon-juice, or vinegar and oil. WKen fresh, 
 the taste is rather like that of oysters. It is 
 made of the roe of sturgeon. Mock caviare 
 is made by pounding boned anchovies, with 
 a clove of garlic ; then mixing with the 
 paste lemon-juice or vinegar, salt, cayenne, and 
 a few drops of salad-oil. It should be served 
 spread thinly on bread and butter or toast. 
 Time to prepare, about half an hour. Probable 
 cost, anchovies. Is. per half-pint bottle. 
 
 CAVIARE, CROUTONS OF. 
 
 Stamp out some neat rounds of bread, fry 
 them a nice brown in a little butter, then let 
 them get cold. Work together with a wooden 
 
 spoon two ounces of caviare, a tea-spoonful of 
 lemon-juice, and a little cayenne. Lay a 
 little heap of the mixture on each round of 
 bread. If a forcing bag is in the establish- 
 ment, put a little fresh butter into it, and force 
 it out prettily round the edges of the caviare; 
 if not, put a ring of parsley round. Probable 
 cost, 2s. 
 
 CAVIARE ON TOAST. 
 
 Make some squares of toast, butter them well, 
 and spread some caviare over them rather 
 thickly; dust a little cayenne over tnem, and 
 put them in the oven for two minutes to get 
 thoroughly hot through. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 CAVIARE WITH PRAWNS. 
 
 Stamp out eight rounds of stale bread about 
 one and a half inches in diameter, fry in butter 
 to a light brown colour, drain, and put them to 
 cool. Put two ounces of Russian caviare in a 
 basin with a few drops of lemon-juice,_and half 
 a shallot finely chopped. Stir all together with 
 a wooden spoon, adding a sprinkling of cayenne. 
 Cut eight thin slices of lemon, place one on 
 each of the bread croutes, put a tea-spoonful of 
 caviare on each of them. Put half a stoned 
 olive in the centre and a picked prawn on each 
 side of every croute. Serve up on a round glass 
 dish, and ornament with parsley and a few 
 prawns' heads. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 
 CAYENNE, HOME-MADE. 
 
 Cayenne is so much adulterated, and varies 
 so much in strenp;th, that we strongly advise 
 those who are partial to it to make it tnemselves. 
 Some of that sold in England has been found 
 to be coloured with red lead, and even that sold 
 in Jamaica is not to be relied upon, as it is 
 prepared from several sorts of red capsicums all 
 of inferior quality both in pungency and flavour. 
 The best time to make it is in September or 
 October, and the chillies should be used as fresh 
 as possible. Take two hundred large chillies, 
 remove the stalks and dry them in a colander 
 before the fire, being careful that they do not 
 burn. Pound them, with a quarter of their 
 weight in salt, to a fine powder. Put the powder 
 into a bottle and cork it closely. The flavour 
 of this cayenne will be superior to that sold in 
 the shops, and it will not be nearly so fiery. 
 Time, fourteen hours to dry. Sufficient for a 
 quarter of a pound of cayenne. Probable cost 
 of chillies, from Is. 6d. to 3s. per hundred. 
 
 CAYENNE VINEGAR OR ESSENCE. 
 
 Put half a pint of brandy, wine, claret, or 
 vinegar into a bottle with half an ounce of cay- 
 enne. Let it infuse for three weeks, then strain 
 and bottle it for use. This essence is excellent 
 for flavouring sauces, gravies, etc., but it should 
 be used judiciously, as the strength of cayenne 
 varies so much that it is impossible to say how 
 much ought to be used. The best way is to put 
 in two or three drops, then taste, and add more 
 if required. 
 
 CECILS. 
 
 Mince very flnely four table-spoonfuls of any 
 kind of cold meat, and put it into a saucepan 
 with an equal weight of finely-grated bread- 
 crumbs, a dessert-spoonful of chopped onions, 
 two or three boned anchovies, a little salt and 
 
CEL 
 
 110 
 
 CEL 
 
 pepper, half a tea-spoonful of chopped lemon- 
 rind, a dessert-spoonful of minced parsley, and 
 a piece of butter warmed. Mix them over the 
 fire for a few minutes, then take them off, and, 
 when cool, add the yolk of an egg. Form the 
 mixture into balls rather larger than a hen's 
 egg, dip them in beaten egg and bread-crumbs, 
 and fry till they become a light brown. Serve 
 with good brown gravy. Time to fry, ten 
 minutes. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold 
 meat, ^d. each. Allow one for each person. 
 
 CELERY. 
 
 This vegetable imparts an agreeable and 
 peculiar flavour to soups, sauces, etc. It is 
 generally eaten raw, the brittle leaf-stalks being 
 the Englishman's favourite accompaniment to 
 bread and cheese. There are several ways in 
 which it may be nicely prepared, and when 
 cooked it is more digestible and equally palat- 
 able. When the roots are not to be had, the 
 pounded seed is an excellent substitute for 
 flavouring. It is in season from October to 
 February, and is better when it has been touched 
 by the frost. 
 CELERY, BOILED. 
 
 Have ready a saucepan, of boiling water, with 
 a little salt in it. Wash the celery carefully. 
 Cut off the outer leaves, make the stalks even, 
 and lay them in small bunches. Throw these 
 into the water, and let them boil gently until 
 tender, leaving the saucepan uncovered. When 
 done, drain, and place them on a piece of toast 
 which has been dipped in the liquid. Pour over 
 them a, little good melted butter, and serve. 
 Time : young celery, three-quarters of an hour ; 
 old, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 2d. 
 to 4d. per head. Sufficient, one head for two 
 persons. 
 
 CELERY, BRAISED. 
 
 Take six heads of celery, trim off the roots, 
 green tops, and outer leaves; cut the portions 
 left to even lengths, and split them through 
 in halves. Wash well and blanch them in boil- 
 ing salted water for ten minutes. Helt two 
 ounces of butter in a saucepan, and put two 
 ounces each of carrot, turnip, and onion, all 
 sliced, in the bottom of the pan. Lay the 
 celery on them, and cover with buttered paper. 
 Put the lid on the pan, and fry the contents for 
 ten minutes ; add one pint and a half of stock, 
 and braise all gently for about two hours, or till 
 the celery is tender. Divide each piece again, 
 and serve on long croutons of bread. Probable 
 cost. Is. 6d. for twelve portions. 
 
 CELERY, ESSENCE OF. 
 
 Put an ounce of pounded celery-seed into a 
 bottle, and pour over it half a pint of spirits of 
 wine, white wine, or brandy. Let this infuse 
 for three weeks, then strain and bottle for use. 
 When wanted, put a few drops upon a lump of 
 sugar, and throw it into the pan, and the flavour 
 will immediately diffuse itself throughout. This 
 is a pleasant addition to salads. Four or five 
 drops on a small lump of sugar will be suflicient 
 for a pint. Probable cost, 2d., exclusive of the 
 spirit. 
 CELERY, FOR FLAVOURING. 
 
 The outside dark leaves of celery should never 
 be thrown away, as they may always be used 
 
 for flavouring soups, sauces, and gravies. If a 
 tea-spoonful of celery-seed be bruised and tied 
 in a little piece of muslin, then thrown into the 
 stock pot, it will impart as much flavour as two 
 heads of fresh celery. Celery-seed for flavouring 
 is sold in penny packets. Sufficient, one penny 
 packet for two quarts. 
 CELERY FRITTERS, CURRIED. 
 
 Wash and clean some white celery, cut it into 
 two-inch pieces, and cook it until tender in 
 stock or salted water. Drain on a sieve. When 
 cold toss them in thick bechamel sauce, pre- 
 viously mixed with curry paste. Dip each piece 
 into frying batter, or egg and bread-crumb each, 
 and drop into boiling fat, fry to a golden 
 colour, drain on a cloth or paper, sprinkle with 
 fine salt mixed with sufficient curry powder to 
 colour it, dish up on a folded napkin, and send 
 to table at once. Probable cost, 8d. 
 
 CELERY GARNISHING. 
 
 Cut the tops off two heads of celery, leaving 
 each head about eight inches long. Point the 
 roots, and put them in boiling water for eight 
 or ten minutes. Tie them together, and put 
 them in a saucepan; cover them with good 
 stock, and add a table-spoonful of pot fat, one 
 carrot, one onion stuck with two cloves, a little 
 salt and pepper, and a bay-leaf. Close the 
 saucepan, and let the contents simmer gently 
 for an hour and a half, then drain the celery 
 and arrange it round a dish of boiled fowls, etc. 
 Probable cost, 2d. or 4d. per head. This quan- 
 tity will be sufficient for a small dish of fowls. 
 
 CELERY, PUr£e OF. 
 
 Wash thoroughly four heads of fresh white 
 celery, cut them into small pieces, and put them 
 in a stewpan, with an onion sliced, and a 
 quarter of a pound of butter. Let them simmer 
 very gently till tender, then add a quarter of a 
 pound of flour mixed smoothly with a pint of 
 milk. Let this boil up, then pass the whole 
 through a fine sieve, season with salt, pepper, 
 and a little piece of sugar, and add some butter 
 and very thick cream to the puree. Serve in the 
 middle of a dish, with cutlets, etc., round. 
 Time for young celery, three-quarters of an 
 hour; if old, one hour and a half. Probable 
 cost, 2d. to 4d. per head. 
 
 CELERY SALAD. 
 
 Cut blanched celery very small. Be careful 
 that it is perfectly dry, and do not prepare it 
 until two or three minutes before it is to be 
 used. Pour over it a mayonnaise sauce (see 
 Mayonnaise) and garnish with green celery- 
 leaves. Time, a few minutes. Probable cost, 
 2d. to 4d. per head. Sufficient, one head for 
 two persons. 
 CELERY SAUCE. 
 
 Cut the white part of two heads of celery into 
 pieces about one inch and a half long. Put two 
 ounces of butter into a saucepan, and when it is 
 melted, throw in the celery, cover closely, and 
 stew gently till it is quite tender. Mix in very 
 smoothly a large table-spoonful of flour, and 
 when it has browned a little, add a breakfast- 
 cupful of good gravy, some salt, and a little 
 nutmeg. Bub through a sieve, make hot, and 
 ■serve. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. per head. Suf- 
 ficient for one small fowl. 
 
CEL 
 
 111 
 
 CEL 
 
 CELERY SAUCE (a quick wav). 
 
 If celery sauce is wanted im a hurry, some good 
 melted butter may be flavoured with a few 
 drops of the essence of celery, and a little cream- 
 or new milk, and a pinch of powdered mace 
 may be added. Time, ten minutes. Sufficient, 
 five drops on a piece of sugar to a pint. Prob- 
 able cost, 6d. per half pint. 
 CELERY SAUCE, FOR TURKEYS, FOWLS, ETC. 
 
 Slice the best part of four heads of young 
 celery in small pieces, and boil them in salt and 
 water for twenty minutes. Drain them, and put 
 them into a clean saucepan, with sufficient veal 
 broth or gravy to cover them, add a tea-spoonf iil 
 of salt, a blade of mace, and stew all gently to- 
 gether until quite tender. Add two ounces of 
 butter, and a dessert-spoonful of flour, and 
 when this is Quite smooth, stir in a cupful of 
 good cream. Time, one hour. Probable cost, 
 2d. to 4d. per head. Sufficient for a couple ui' 
 small fowls. If this sauce should be wanted 
 richer, the yolks of two or three eggs may dc 
 added, but celery sauce is frequently spoilt by 
 too much seasoning. 
 
 CELERY SOUFFLES. 
 
 Trim and wash about half a pound of the 
 white part of celery, cut it into slices, blanch 
 in salted water, and drain. Put a gill and a half 
 of milk, a bay-leaf, a small blade of mace, 
 and a slice of onion, with the celery into a 
 stewpan, and boil till tender; remove the mace 
 and bay-leaf, and pass the remainder through a 
 fine sieve. Put a gill of water and one ounce 
 of butter in a stewpan, add a pinch of celery 
 salt, and as soon as it boils stir in one ounce of 
 flour. Stir briskly for a few minutes over the 
 fire, then put in the celery puree, and let it 
 cool a little. Add one ounce of grated Parmesan 
 cheese. Stir in gradually the yolks of two eggs 
 and one whole egg. Whisk the whites of two 
 eggs to a stiff froth and mingle with the mix- 
 ture, season with a very little cayenne. Put it 
 into a pie-dish of sufficient dimensions to allow 
 of the souffle swelling; it should, in fact, be 
 only two-thirds full. Bake in » hot oven for 
 about ten minutes, and serve without a 
 moment's delay. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 
 CELERY SOUP. 
 
 Cut the white part of four heads of celery into 
 pieces about an inch long, and put them into 
 a saucepan with a pint of good white stock, two 
 ounces of butter, a quarter of a pound of lean 
 ham, and a lump of sugar. Let them boil for a 
 quarter of an hour, put in with them three pints 
 more of stock, a little salt, and a blade of mace. 
 Stew gently for an hour, then press the soup 
 throu^ a coarse sieve. Make it hot again, pour 
 it into a tureen, add a pint of boiling cream, and 
 serve immediately with toasted sippets. If 
 liked, this soup may be thickened with a little 
 flour. Probable cost, lOd. per pint if cream be 
 used. Sufficient for eight persons. 
 
 CELERY, STEWED. 
 
 Wash four heads of celery very clean, trim 
 them neatly, cutting off the leaves and tops ; 
 cut them into three-inch lengths, and tie them 
 in small bundles, and parboil them in sufficient 
 salt and water to cover them. Drain and stew 
 them, until tender, in some stock. Brown two 
 
 ounces of butter together with a, table-spoonful 
 of flour in a saucepan, dilute it with the stock in 
 which the celery was boiled, lay the celery in it, 
 let it boil for ten minutes more, and serve as hot 
 as possible. Time, three-quarters of an hour. 
 Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. per head. Sufficient 
 for six persons. 
 
 CELERY, STEWED (k la Creme). 
 
 Wash very clean two heads of celery, trim 
 them neatly, cutting off the outer stalks, the 
 leaves, and the tops, and boil them m salt and 
 water, until nearly tender. Drain them and 
 put them in a dish. Have ready in another 
 saucepan a breakfast-cupful of good cream. Let 
 it boil, with a piece of butter rolled in flour, till 
 it is thick and smooth; then pour it over the 
 celery, grate a little nutmeg over the top, aud 
 serve. Time to boil the celery, from three- 
 quarters of an hour to one hour and a half. 
 Sufficient for four persons. Probable cost, 2d. 
 to 4d. per head. 
 
 CELERY, TO DRESS. 
 
 Cut off the end of the root, leaving the white 
 part; wash it very carefully, trim away all the 
 decayed leaves and outer stalks, and if the root 
 be very thick, split it into quarters. Send it to 
 table in a celery glass half filled with cold 
 water. Curl the top leaves by drawing the point 
 of a skewer through them, dividing them into 
 strips about five inches from the top. 
 
 CELERY, TO FRY. 
 
 Cold boiled celery will answer for this pur- 
 pose. Split three or four heads, and dip the 
 pieces into clarified butter, and fry tbem until 
 they are lightly browned; lay them on some 
 blotting-paper for a minute to drain off the fat, 
 and pile them like sugar biscuits on a napkin. 
 Garnish the dish prettily with parsley. They 
 may be dipped in batter before frying, and 
 served with melted butter, or with good brown 
 sauce made with the gravy in which they were 
 boiled. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable 
 cost, 2d. to 4d. per head. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. 
 
 CELERY, TO PRESERVE THROUGH THE 
 WINTER. 
 
 Gather the celery on a fine dry day before it is 
 injured by the frost, cut off the leaves and roots, 
 and lay it in a dry airy place for a few days till 
 it is partially dried; then remove it to a cool 
 cellar where it will be quite secure from frost, 
 and pack it up with sand, putting layers of 
 celery and of sand alternately. 
 
 CELERY VINEGAR. 
 
 Bruise an ounce of celery-seed, put it into a 
 quart bottle, which must be filled up with cold 
 boiled vinegar, let it soak for three weeks, then 
 strain, aud bottle for use. A few drops are an 
 agreeable addition to salads, etc. Probable 
 cost, 6d. per pint. 
 
 CELERY, WITH WHITE SAUCE. 
 
 Prepare the celery as for stewing, let it atew 
 in salt and water for ten minutes, then drain it, 
 and just cover it with a little veal broth; stew 
 it again till tender. As the broth boils away, 
 add a little milk. When the celery is sufficiently 
 cooked, arrange it on a hot dish, thicken the 
 gravy with a, little flour and butter, season it 
 
CEL 
 
 112 
 
 CHA 
 
 ligMly with salt and pepper, and pour it over 
 the celery. Time, one hour or more. Probable 
 cost, 2d. to 4d. per head. Sufficient, one head 
 for two persons. 
 CELESTINE PUDDING. 
 
 Line a well-buttered mould with buttered 
 paper, ornament the bottom with preserved 
 cherries and angelica to taste. Split nine sponge 
 cakes, spread with apricot jam, and cut them 
 into three portions. Fill the mould with alter- 
 nate layers of cake, ratafias, and preserved 
 cherries. Make a custard with six whole eggs, 
 two yolks, a, pint and a half of milk, and two 
 ounces of castor sugar; add a grated nutmeg 
 and zest of one lemon; strain into the mould. 
 Place this in a stewpau with water round, cover 
 and slowly steam for forty-five minutes. For a 
 sauce use half a pint of good jelly flavoured 
 with kirsch, to which has been added a little 
 apricot jam. Probable cost, 2s. 
 
 CHAFING DISH COOKERY. 
 
 The dainty little apparatus known as the 
 American chafing dish, which has comparatively 
 recently been introduced into this country, 
 is gaining in favour, and bids fair to be- 
 come as popular here as in the land of its birth. 
 It consists, essentially, of a, stand and a lamp. 
 
 CHAFING DISH. 
 
 over which is placed, first, a water-pan, and 
 next, over this, a cooking-pan. By placing the 
 water-pan, with a little water in it, under the 
 cooking-pan, and regulating the flame, cooked 
 food can be kept hot for hours without becoming 
 dry, so that it is a valuable adjunct to the sick 
 room. By removing the water-pan, and placing 
 the cooking-pan alone over the flame, one has an 
 appliance by means of which all kinds of dainty 
 dishes can be easily and quickly prepared from 
 meat, fish, game, eggs, cheese, fruit, or almost 
 any other kind of food. 
 
 The chaf.ng dish is as useful on the breakfast- 
 table as at luncheon or supper time, as all sorts 
 of savoury dishes can be prepared on the table 
 itself, and served hot and fresh. It is as well 
 to stand the chafing dish upon a metal tray, in 
 case of accidents to the table-cloth, and all 
 the ingredients required should be placed ready 
 to hand. 
 
 We give a number of recipes as specimens of 
 the dishes that can be easily prepared with the 
 aid of this elegant little utensil, and many 
 
 others will doubtless suggest themselves to the 
 reader. 
 
 1. Cheese Fondu. — Take a table-spoonful of 
 butter, half a pint of milk, half a pint of bread- 
 crumbs, one pint of grated cheese, a tea-spoon- 
 ful of dry mustard, a pinch of cayenne, and two 
 eggs. Put the butter in the chafing dish; when 
 melted add the milk, bread-crumbs, cheese, and 
 mustard, and season with the cayenne. Stir 
 constantly, and add, just before serving, the 
 two eggs, lightly beaten. 
 
 2. Chicken, Creamed. — Take two cupfuls of 
 cold chicken cut into small pieces, one cup of 
 chicken broth, one cup of milk or cream, two 
 table-spoonfuls of butter, one table-spoonful of 
 flour, and seasoning of salt and pepper. Cook 
 the butter and flour together in the chafing 
 dish, add the broth and milk, and stir until 
 smooth; put in the chicken, salt and pepper, 
 and cook three minutes longer. 
 
 3. Chicken Croquettes. — Take four cupfuls of 
 cold minced chicken, one cup of bread-crumbs, 
 and three eggs. Beat the eggs, and roll, with 
 the chicken, bread-crumbs, seasoning, and a 
 little butter, into pear-shaped balls. Dip into 
 beaten eggs and bread-crumbs. Fry a nice brown. 
 
 4. Chicken, Curried. — Take four table-spoon- 
 fuls of butter, two cups of rich milk, two table- 
 spoonfuls of flour, two cups of 
 chicken meat, one table-spoonful of 
 curry powder, two hard-boiled eggs, 
 a tea-spoonful of onion juice, salt 
 and pepper to taste. Melt the 
 butter, add the flour and curry 
 
 powder mixed, the onion juice and milk. Coci 
 five minutes, add the chicken, eggs, and season- 
 ing, and cook until hot. 
 
 5. Chicken Fillets with Almond Sauce. — Melt 
 two table-spoonfuls of butter, and saute two 
 chicken fillets until a light brown colour. When 
 done, draw to one side of the pan, and add to 
 butter in the pan two table-spoonfuls of flour; 
 then pour on one cup each of cream and stock 
 (as for a white sauce). When thick, add one- 
 half cup of shredded almonds and season with 
 salt and cayenne. 
 
 6. Chicken Livers with Madeira Sauce. — Two 
 table-spoonfuls of butter, six livers, one-half 
 tea-spoonful of onion juice, one cup of chicken 
 stock, one-half cup of Madeira, six stoned olives, 
 one tea-spoonful of salt, one-half tea-spoonful of 
 paprika, one-half cup of fried croiitons. Melt 
 the butter, add the livers, which have been 
 dredged with flour, cook five minutes, add the 
 onion juice and chicken stock, cook five 
 minutes more, add remaining ingredients and 
 serve. Half a cup of chopped celery is an im- 
 provement to this dish. 
 
 7. Chicken Terrapin. — Chop one cold roast 
 chicken and one parboiled sweetbread moder- 
 ately fine. Make one cupful of cream sauce 
 (with one cupful of hot cream, a quarter of a 
 cupful of butter, and two table-spoonfuls of 
 flour). Do this in the blazer or cooking-pan, 
 removing the water chamber. Put in the chicken 
 and sweetbread, salt and pepper to taste, put the 
 hot water dish under and heat eight minutes. 
 Just before serving, add the yolks of two eggs, 
 well beaten, and one wine-glassful of sherry. 
 
 8. Eggs, Curried. — Two table-spoonfuls of 
 butter, two small onions (minced), two dessert- 
 
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 113 
 
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 Bpoonfuls of curry powder, two table-spoonfuls 
 of flour, half a pint of veal or chicken stock, 
 two table-spoonfuls of cream, six hard-boiled 
 eggs cut in slices. Put the butter and onions 
 into the chafing dish, and cook until they begin 
 to brown. Stir in the curry powder. Mix well, 
 and add the flour, stirring quickly all the time ; 
 then add the stock or a table-spoonful of Bovril 
 dissolved in boiling water. When the mixture 
 has simmered for ten minutes add the cream 
 and eggs. When hot, serve. 
 
 9. Eggs, Fricasseed. — Two table-spoonfuls of 
 butter, one table-spoonful of flour, a sprig of 
 parsley, half a dozen minced mushrooms, half 
 a pint of white stock (veal or chicken), half a 
 dozen hard-boiled eggs (sliced). Put the butter 
 into the chafing dish. When melted add the 
 flour (stirring constantly), parsley (cut fine), 
 jnushrooms, and stock. Simmer five minutes 
 and add the eggs. Boil up once and serve hot. 
 
 10. Eggs, ScravMed. — Beat six eggs lightly 
 with a fork, add one salt-spoonful of pepper, 
 half a tea-spoonful of salt, and six table-spoon- 
 fuls of milk. Melt one table-spoonful of butter 
 in the chafing dish, add the eggs, stirring all 
 the while, and cook until the eggs are firm. 
 Then serve at once on a hot dish. Eggs may be 
 cooked in this way with mushrooms, tomatoes, 
 oysters, anchovies, sardines, cheese, macaroni, 
 sausages, and calf's brains. 
 
 11. Eggs, Spanish. — Cook one table-spoonful 
 of finely-chopped onion and two table-spoonfuls 
 of chopped pepper in two table-spoonfuls of 
 butter for three minutes. Add three or four 
 mushrooms broken in pieces and one cupful of 
 tomato pulp. When this mixture is hot add four 
 beaten eggs, three-fourths of a tea-spoonful of 
 salt, a little cayenne, and one table-spoonful of 
 capers. Cook until the mixture thickens, 
 stirring constantly. 
 
 12. Frankfurt Sausages in White Sauce. — Boil 
 Bix sausages for fifteen minutes. Cool, remove 
 the skins, and cut into small pieces. Melt three 
 table-spoonfuls of butter, add three table-spoon- 
 fuls of flour, and three-fourths of a cup each of 
 milk and cream. Add the sausages, season with 
 salt, pepper, and cayenne, let the mixture come 
 to boiling point, and serve. 
 
 13. Lobster, a, la Newhurg. — One large lobster, 
 one table-spoonful of butter, one gill of wine, 
 three eggs, half a pint of cream. Take the 
 nicest part of a lobster, cut it into small slices, 
 put in chaflng dish with the butter, season well 
 with pepper and salt, pour the wine over it, cook 
 ten minutes ; add the beaten yolks of eggs, and 
 the cream ; let all come to a boil and serve imme- 
 diately. 
 
 14. Lobster, Oream,ed. — Melt a table-spoonful 
 of butter in the chafing dish, stir in a table- 
 spoonful of flour, add gradually one cupful of 
 milk and half a cupful of cream, and to this, 
 when smooth, add two pounds of lobster cut into 
 small pieces, one tea-spoonful of salt and a little 
 cayenne pepper. Stir until very hot, add one 
 tea-spoonful of lemon-juice, and serve. 
 
 15. Lobster Patties. — The tail part of two 
 boiled lobsters cut into small pieces and seasoned 
 well with salt and pepper and a little lemon- 
 juice, one pint of milk, one table-spoonful of 
 flour, one large table-spoonful of butter. In 
 the chafing dish boil a pint of milk. Dissolve 
 
 the flour in cold milk and add to the hot milk. 
 When thick stir in gradually the butter, and 
 allow it to become quite thick. Stir the lobster 
 in the sauce, and when it has become hot, serve 
 by filling the previously heated shells with the 
 mixture . 
 
 16. Omelets. — To make a plain omelet in the 
 chafing dish, beat four eggs in a bowl, add four 
 table-spoonfuls of water and half a table-spoon- 
 ful of butter. Melt the remainder of the butter 
 in the chafing dish, and, when sizzling hot, turn 
 in the eggs. As soon as the omelet begins to 
 set, slip a knife under it and tip the pan so that 
 the raw portion can run on to the hot pan. 
 Continue this until the eggs are suificiently set ; 
 season with salt and pepper ; fold and serve from 
 the chafing dish. All kinds of omelets may be 
 made from this recipe. If parsley is to be used, 
 mix it, chopped, with the eggs when the water 
 and butter are added. If ham, mushrooms, 
 etc., put in just before folding or long enough 
 before serving the omelet to become heated 
 through. 
 
 17. Oysters, Saute. — One dozen large oysters, 
 butter, pepper., Bait. Drain the juice from the 
 oysters thoroughly ; butter the chafing dish, and 
 when very hot place the oysters in single layers ; 
 when brown on one side turn and brown the 
 other side ; while cooking keep adding a little 
 butter : this, with the juice of the oysters, forms 
 a brown skin in the chafing dish; season with 
 pepper and salt, and when browned serve the 
 oysters and skin very hot. 
 
 18. Oysters, Scalloped. — One dozen large oys- 
 ters, two table-spoonfuls of butter, one gill of 
 cream, two table-spoonfuls of cracker dust, 
 pepper and salt. Put the butter and cream in 
 the chafing dish ; drain the oysters and place 
 them in layers sprinkled with cracker dust, 
 another layer of oysters, more cracker dust, a 
 little butter, season with pepper and salt; cook 
 from five to ten minutes, covered. 
 
 19. Rechauffe of Fish. — Cold boiled fish (any 
 kind), two table-spoonfuls of butter, a cup of 
 bread-crumbs, two eggs (beaten slightly), two 
 table-spoonfuls of milk, one tea-spoonful of 
 anchovy paste, pepper and cayenne. Put the 
 fish, cut fine, into the chafing dish, with butter ; 
 when melted add bread-crumbs, eggs, milk, 
 anchovy paste, pepper and cayenne, stirring 
 constantly; let it simmer for five minutes. 
 
 20. Rechauffe of Roast Beef. — Cold roast beef, 
 one table-spoonful of butter, three table-spoon- 
 fuls of currant jelly, cayenne, salt, one glass of 
 sherry or Madeira. Cut the beef in small slices 
 half an inch thick, put the butter in the chafing 
 dish, and when melted add the jelly, a dash of 
 cayenne, a little salt, and the sherry or Madeira ; 
 add the beef, and serve hot. 
 
 21. Shrimps, Creamed.— Stir in the chafing 
 dish the yolks of two eggs, one tea-spoonful of 
 anchovy sauce, and half a breakfast-cup of 
 cream. Put in half a pint of shrimps, boiled 
 and shelled ; let them get hot, but do not allow 
 the eggs to curdle. Use the hot-water dish. 
 Serve on strips of toast. 
 
 22. Sweetbreads, Creamed. — Parboil one pair 
 of sweetbreads, melt one table-spoonful of 
 butter with one of flour, add three-quarters of a 
 cup of cream, and a quarter of chicken stock. 
 When it boils add the sweetbreads, and season 
 
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 with gait and pepper to taste. Let it cook for 
 ten minutes, and serve. 
 
 23. Turkey, a la Newhurg. — Press the yolks of 
 four hard-boiled eggs through a sieve. Add to 
 them one-quarter of a cup o? cream, and mix to 
 a paste. Put one table-spoonful of butter and 
 two of flour into the chafing dish. When meltcsd 
 add the egg-paste and three-quarters of a cup of 
 cream. When smooth and tluck put in one pint 
 of cold turkey, a grating of nutmeg, one-quarter 
 of a tea-spoonful of salt, one-quarter of paprika, 
 and when hot and ready to serve, four table- 
 spoonfuls of sherry or Madeira. 
 
 24. Tripe, with Cream, Sauce. — Thick honey- 
 comb tripe, two table-spoonful-a of butter, half 
 a tea-spoonful of onion (minced fine), half a 
 pint of cream, a table-spoonful of fiour. Cut the 
 boiled tripe into strips about one inch wide by 
 three inches long. Put into chafing dish the 
 butter and onions. When these are hot lay in 
 the tripe, first dredging each slice well in flour. 
 Cook until brown, turning often. Take it out, 
 add to the butter in pan the cream into which 
 has been stirred half a table-spoonful of flour. 
 Cook, stirring all the time, until you have a 
 smooth, thick sauce. Return the tripe to it, 
 and serve. 
 
 25. Welsh Uarehit. — One pound of chopped 
 American cheese, half a glass of ale, the yolk of 
 an egg, one tea-spoonful of dry mustard, one 
 of Worcestershire sauce and butter, a dash of 
 red and one or two of black pepper, and perhaps 
 a. iev/ drops of tobasco. If the cheese is fresh, 
 salt the above. Into the chafing dish put a few 
 small lunips'of butter. After it has simmered -a 
 bit put in the cheese. Stir constantly, and 
 gradually add the ale. When the Cheese and ale 
 are well blended stir in the above condiments 
 prepared as follows : To the yolk of the egg, 
 broken into a cup, add the dry mustard and 
 Worcestershire sauce, red and black pepper and 
 tobasco. Let it have one more heating and 
 pour over toast. 
 
 CHAMPAGNE CREAM. 
 
 Beat the yolks of five eggs very thoroughly, 
 and add by degrees some finely-pounded white 
 sugar, sufficient to make it stiff and firm. Then 
 add a bottle of champagne ; keep on stirring till 
 it is all mixed. Last of all, put in a table-spoon- 
 ful of brandy. Put the cream into a glass jug, 
 and serve it in champagne glasses. Time, a 
 quarter of an hour. The probable cost will de- 
 pend upon the price of the champagne. Suf- 
 ficient for six persons. 
 
 CHAMPAGNE CUP. 
 
 Pour a bottle of champagne into a silver or 
 glass bowl, large enough to hold three quarts- 
 Add to this two bottles of soda or seltzer water, 
 a. table^poonful of brandy, and one pound of 
 crushed ice. . Stir it well vo-th a silver, spoon, 
 and add, last of all, a table-spoonful of finely- 
 sifted sugar. Be careful, when putting in the 
 sugar, that the wine does not overflow. A little 
 cucumber-rind is by some persons considered an 
 improvement. Time, a few minutes. Sufficient 
 for a party of nine or ten. 
 
 CHAMPAGNE, CURRANT. 
 
 Put four pounds of loaf sugar into a sauce- 
 
 Ean with six quarts of water ; skim it well, and 
 oil it till it is a clear syrup; pour it over a 
 
 quart of white and a quart of red currants, which 
 have been stripped from the stalks. Let it 
 stand for one hour and a half, then stir in two 
 table-spoonfuls of yeast. Let it remain for two 
 days, stirring it frequently, pass it through a 
 coarse bag into a small cask, and fine it with a 
 quarter of an ounce of isinglass. Probable cost, 
 currants, 4d. or 6d. per quart. 
 
 CHAMPAGNE, ENGLISH. 
 
 The yellow hairy gooseberries are the best for 
 this purpose. They should be taken when they 
 are fully grown, but before they are in the least 
 ripe. Reject all unsound or bruised fruit, and 
 pick off the stalks and heads. Bruise a gallon 
 of fruit so as to burst the berries without break- 
 ing the seeds. Be careful that the tub in which 
 they are placed is scrupulously clean. Pour 
 over them a gallon of water; and let them stand 
 in a warm ^ace for forty-eight hours, stirring 
 them frequently, until all the juice and pulp are 
 separated from the rest of the fruit. Strain the 
 liquid, pressing the pulp with a wooden spoon 
 till it is quite dry. Pour it upon four pounds 
 of coarse sugar, and let it stand three days more, 
 still stirring it frequently, then strain it through 
 a coarse bag into a cask, and mix with it a cup- 
 ful of the best gin. Let it stand twelve months, 
 then bottle it. It must be bottled in the spring. 
 If it is not quite clear, it may be fined with a 
 little isinglass ; half an ounce is enough for four 
 gallons. After the bungs are driven in tightly, 
 a vent-hole should be made in the cask. Prob- 
 able cost of gooseberries. Is. per gallon. 
 
 CHANCELLOR PUDDING. 
 
 Butter rather thickly a plain round mould, 
 and ornament it with alternate rows of raisins 
 and citron, making a star or some other device 
 at the bottom of the mould. Put in it a layer 
 of small sponge-cakes, sprinkle over them a few 
 raisins and a little finely-chopped citron, then 
 four or five ratafias, and' pour over these a tea- 
 spoonful of sherry, and repeat until the mould 
 is nearly full. Take a pint of milk sweetened, 
 and fiavoured with Icmon-rind, and mix with it 
 the yolks of four eggs, well beaten. Stir this a 
 few minutes over the fire till it thickens, but it 
 must not be allowed to boil. When it is time 
 to steam the pudding, pour this custard, which 
 must be cold, gradually over the cakes. Place 
 a piece of well-buttered writing paper on the 
 top, put it in a saucepan, and either boil or 
 steam it very gently indeed, until sufficiently 
 cooked. It should stand four or five minutes be- 
 fore it is turned out. Serve with wine sauce. 
 Time to boil, or to steam, one hour. Probable 
 cost. Is. 4d., exclusive of the sherry. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 CHANTILLY SOUP. 
 
 Boil one pint of young green peas, shelled, 
 three spring onions, and a sprig of piint, until 
 the peas are quite tender. Eemove the mint 
 and the onions, press the peas through a sieve, 
 and pour three pints of nicely-flavoured boiling 
 stock on them. Serve very hot. Time, forty 
 minutes. Probable cost, 8d. per pint. Suf- 
 ficient for six persons. 
 
 CHAR. 
 
 This fish is considered a great delicacy, and is 
 peculiar to the lakes of Cumberland; it is seldom 
 
CHA 
 
 115 
 
 CHE 
 
 offered for sale in the London market. The 
 flesh is rather like that of trout. Wash tlin 
 char, dry it with a, soft cloth, dust it over with 
 flour, and broil it gently till it is ready. Send 
 piquante sauce in a tureen to table with it. 
 Time to broil, ten or fifteen minutes. One 
 medium-sized char will suffice for two persons. 
 CHAR, POTTED. 
 
 For a seasoning take three tea-spoonfuls of 
 black pepi)er and allspice mixed, two of mace, 
 one each ot cloves and nutmeg, all finely ground. 
 Mix and keep well corked up, and when used add 
 a little salt. This is enough for fourteen pounds 
 of fish. Cut open the fish ; clean well with a dry 
 cloth, but do not wash. Remove the heads, 
 tails, fins, and backbone, then rub the spices 
 well into the fish. Put with the spices into a 
 baking dish ; cover well with fresh butter, and 
 place the dish in a slow oven, to remain iintil 
 the bones are dissolved, which will take about 
 five hours. Drain off the butter, and put the 
 fish into earthenware pots ; press it down firmly, 
 and pour a thin layer of fresh butter over the 
 top. Other fish, such as trout, eels, sprats, 
 shrimps, and prawns, may be done in the same 
 way. Cost uncertaiii. 
 
 CHARLOTTE. 
 
 A Charlotte, or French fruit pudding, may 
 be made of almost every kind of fruit, or of two 
 or three kinds together. Take a plain round 
 mould, butter it well, and line the bottom and 
 sides completely with strips of the crumb of 
 bread well buttered, making each piece fold 
 over another, so as to make a complete wall of 
 bread. Fill up the dish with any sort of stewed, 
 fresh, or preserved fruit, taking care to have it 
 sufficiently moist to soak the bread a little. 
 Cover the top with slices of buttered bread. 
 Put a plate and a weight over the pudding, and 
 bake it in a quick oven. Turn it out in a shape, 
 and serve with sifted sugar and cream. Time 
 to bake, ten minutes. Probable cost. Is. for a 
 mould. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 CHARLOTTE (k la Parisienne). 
 
 Cut a Savoy, sponge, or rice cake into thin 
 horizontal slices, spread some good jam on each 
 slice, and restore the cake to its original shape. 
 Cover it equally with an icing made by mixing 
 the lightly-whisked whites of four eggs with 
 five ounces of pounded loaf sugar. Sift a little 
 more sugar over it, and dry the icing in a gentle 
 oven. Pound cake may be iced in the same 
 way, but, of course, if this is used the jam 
 should be omitted. The Charlotte must remain 
 in a gentle oven till the icing is dry. Probable 
 cost. Is. 8d. for a medium-sized cake. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 CHARLOTTE (k la St. Denis). 
 
 Ornament an oval Charlotte mould with cut 
 cherries, angelica, and small fancy slices of 
 apple, until the mould is covered, then line 
 thickly with maraschino jelly. Pass some pre- 
 served peaches through a fine sieve, whip half a 
 pint of cream, mix together with a little grated 
 cocoa-nut, sweeten, add half an ounce of leaf 
 gelatine soaked and melted, pour into the mould 
 and put away into a cold place. When needed, 
 turn out and garnish with slices of pine-apple- 
 Probable cost, 2s. 
 
 CHARLOTTE PRUSSIENNE. 
 
 Put a little nicely-flavoured red jelly, not 
 quite an inch deep, at the bottom of a plain 
 mould. Let it become stiff. Line the sides of 
 the mould compactly with finger biscuits, and 
 half fill it with good jelly. Put it in the ice 
 pot, and as it begins to freeze fill up with well- 
 whipped cream. Serve it turned out of the 
 mould. All sorts of variations may be made in 
 the flavouring of this pudding. Time to freeze, 
 half an hour. It had better remain in the ice 
 until ready to serve. A medium-sized mould 
 will suffice for six persons. 
 
 CHARLOTTE RUSSE. 
 
 Line a plain round mould with finger biscuits, 
 carefully put them close together, and form a 
 round or star at the bottom of the mould. Take 
 a pint . of cream and whisk it well with a Uttle 
 sugar and half an ounce of gelatine dissolved 
 in a little water. Mix with it half a pint of 
 apple, apricot, strawberry, or any other jam, 
 and set it to freeze. Cover it with a piece of 
 Savoy cake the shape of the mould, and be care- 
 ful to fit it exactly, so that when it is turned out 
 it will not be likely to break. Let it remain in 
 the ice until it is sufficiently frozen. Turn out 
 and serve. If fruit is not at hand the cream may 
 be flavoured with coffee, burnt almond, vanilla, 
 etc. Time to freeze, about an hour. Probable 
 cpst, 4s. Sufficient for a quart mould. 
 
 CHARLOTTE RUSSE (another way). 
 
 Line a plain round mould with French biscuit 
 of different colours. Divide the mould into four 
 compartments by placing inside pieces of biscuit 
 the height of the mould perpendicularly. These 
 must of course be placed across both ways. Fill 
 each division with a different puree of fruit, 
 cover it closely with biscuit, and bake in a good 
 oven. Turn it out of the mould, and serve with 
 a little custard. Time to bake, half an hour. 
 The probable cost will depend upon the fruit 
 with which it is filled. Sufficient, one pint 
 mould for four persons. 
 
 CHARTREUSE. 
 
 Chartreuse is one of the most celebrated of 
 liqueurs, and is made exclusively by the Carthu- 
 sian monks, from whom it takes its name. It is 
 made in three varieties, green, yellow, and 
 white, but only the first two are generally known 
 in this country. All three are much counter- 
 feited. The monkish recipes are kept secret, but 
 it is known that chartreuse contains the 
 aromatic and flavouring elements of hyssop,- 
 peppermint, angelica roots and seeds, thyme,, 
 arnica flowers, balsam buds, cinnamon, and 
 mace. Chartreuse is also the term applied tO' 
 a mixed preparation of vegetables, of meat, or of 
 fruit, served as entree or entremet. 
 
 CHEESE AIGRETTES. 
 
 Put four ounces of flour in a cool oven to dry, 
 then pass it through a sieve. Put half a pint 
 of cold water and one ounce of butter in a sauce- 
 pan, and let them boil. Then add the flour, 
 and well stir the mixture over the fire until it 
 will leave the sides of the pan quite clean. 
 Take it off the fire and allow it to cool a little, 
 then add two beaten eggs, one by one. Season 
 with pepper, salt, and cayenne, and add 
 three ounces of grated cheese. Spread the 
 
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 116 
 
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 mixture on a plate to cool. Have ready a pan 
 of frying fat ; when it has almost reached boil- 
 ing point, take a dessert-spoonful of the mix- 
 ture, drop it into the fat, and fry it a golden 
 brown. Drain the aigrettes on paper. Serve 
 very hot, with grated cheese sprinkled over. 
 Probable cost, 8d. for one dozen. 
 
 CHEESE AND MACARONI BALLS. 
 
 Chop two ounces of well-boiled macaroni into 
 small pieces. Melt one ounce of butter, and 
 stir into it one ounce of flour. Add one gill of 
 milk, and stir till it boils. Add two ounces of 
 grated Parmesan cheese, the macaroni, and the 
 yolk of a raw egg, and season well. Re-cook for 
 a minute or two, turn the mixture on to a plate, 
 and let it cool. When cold, shape into small 
 balls, dip them in egg and bread-crumb, and 
 fry to a nice brown in plenty of boiling fat. 
 Drain on paper, and serve arranged in a pyramid 
 on a lace paper, garnished with fried parsley. 
 Probable cost, lOd. for twelve. 
 
 CHEESE, BATH CREAM. 
 
 Put a gallon of new milk and two quarts of 
 cold spring water into the cheese-tub, with suf- 
 ficient rennet to turn it. More will be required 
 than if milk alone were used. When the curd 
 comes let the whey drip from it, then pour a 
 little water over it and let it drip again. Fill 
 ■a. vat with the curd, place a weight upon it, and 
 apply dry clothB for a day or two. Turn it out 
 on a plate, cover it with another plate, and turn 
 occasionally. It will be ready for use in a fort- 
 night. Neither salt nor colouring are required. 
 
 CHEESE BISCUITS. 
 
 Warm four ounces of butter in half a pint of 
 milk until it is dissolved, then mix it with one 
 pound of flour to a very stiff paste, beat it with 
 a rolling pin until the dough is quite smooth; 
 roll it out thin ; cut it into rounds the size of the 
 top of a wine-glass. Bake from six to ten min- 
 utes. A flavouring of celery salt is a great im- 
 provement. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 CHEESE, BLUE MOULD, TO PRODUCE. 
 
 The blue mould which is so much liked in 
 cheese comes no one can tell how. It may be 
 accelerated by brushing it while still soft with 
 a hard brush dipped in whey, and then rubbing 
 it once a day with butter; and repeating this 
 for three weeks, or until the blue mould begins 
 to appear. 
 CHEESE CANAPES. 
 
 Cut a stale loaf into slices about a quarter of 
 an inch thick. Divide these into pieces about 
 two inches long, and one inch wide, and fry 
 them in hot butter or oil till they are a bright 
 golden colour. Spread a little thin mustard on 
 each of these pieces, lay over that some Cheshire 
 or Parmesan cheese, and put them in a quick 
 oven till the cheese is dissolved. Serve as hot 
 as possible. Time, altogether, about half an 
 hour. Probable cost, about Id. each piece. 
 Allow two or three pieces for each person. 
 
 CHEESE, CREAM. 
 
 Take some thick cream and tie it in a. wet 
 cloth. Stir a tea-spoonful of salt into every pint 
 of cream. Hang it in a cool airy place for six or 
 seven days, then turn it into a clean cloth, which 
 must be put into a mould, and under a weight 
 
 for about twenty-four hours longer, when it will 
 be fit for use. It should be turned twice a day. 
 Probable cost, cream. Is. 6d. per pint. 
 
 CHEESE CROQUETTES. 
 
 Mix two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese 
 with one ounce of melted butter, add the beaten 
 yolks of two eggs, and the beaten white of one ; 
 season with salt and cayenne. Cut out some 
 small rounds of pastry, spread some of the mix- 
 ture on one half, moisten the edges and press 
 together. Egg and bread-crumb, and fry in 
 boiling fat. Probable cost, 6d. 
 CHEESE, CRUSTS FOR, OR PULLED BREAD. 
 
 Pull the crumb of a new loaf into small rough 
 pieces, place them on a dish or tin plate, and put 
 them into a quick oven till they are lightly 
 browned and crisp. If the oven is not hot they 
 may be browned before a clear fire in a Dutch 
 oven. The crumb of a half-quartern loaf will 
 make enough for six persons. 
 
 CHEESE, DEVILLED, ON TOAST. 
 
 Butter some square pieces of toast, spread 
 them with anchovy paste, and over that grate 
 some cheese thickly, season with cayenne, and 
 salt, and bake in a sharp oven for eight minutes. 
 Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 CHEESE FRITTERS. 
 
 Cheese which has become a little dry will 
 answer for this purpose, though, of course, fresh 
 cheese will be better. Put three ounces of 
 cheese in a mortar, with a dessert-spoonful of 
 finely-minced ham, three dessert-spoonfuls of 
 finely-grated bread-crumbs, a tea-spoonful of drj 
 mustard, a. piece of butter about the size of a 
 small egg, two or three grains of cayenne, and 
 the yolk of an egg well beaten. Pound these 
 ingredients together until they are perfectly 
 smooth, then form the paste into balls about the 
 size of a walnut, flatten to a thickness of half 
 an inch, dip them in batter, and fry them until 
 lightly browned, then drain. Place them on a 
 napkin, and serve as hot as possible. Time to 
 fry, two or three minutes. Probable cost, 8d. 
 for this quantity. One or two will suflice for 
 each person. 
 CHEESE OMELET. 
 
 Whisk two eggs thoroughly. Allow a pinch of 
 salt, the same of pepper, half a tea-spoonful of 
 finely-chopped parsley, and a tea-spoonful of 
 grated Parmesan or Cheshire cheese to every two 
 eggs. Mix completely. Put a piece of butter 
 the size of an egg into the frying-pan. When it 
 is hot, pour in the mixture, and stir it with a 
 wooden spoon until it begins to set. Discon- 
 tinue stirring, but shake the pan for a minute or 
 so, then fold the omelet in two, and keep on 
 shaking the pan, and, if it seems likely to stick, 
 put a little piece of butter under it. When it 
 is lightly browned, turn it on a hot dish. It 
 must not be overdone. The inside ought to be 
 quite juicy. If it is preferred, the cheese may 
 be finely grated, and strewed over the omelet 
 after it is cooked, instead of mixed with it be- 
 fore. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, 
 5d., with two eggs. Sufficient for one person. 
 
 CHEESE PANCAKES. 
 
 Cut some slices of Gruyere cheese half an inch 
 thick and about the size of the top of a wine- 
 
CHE 
 
 117 
 
 CHE 
 
 glass ; sprinkle with cayenne, dip in batter, and 
 fry for three minutes. Serve at once on a very 
 hot dish. Probable cost, 6d. for six or eight 
 slices. 
 
 CHEESE PASTE. 
 
 This is made by pounding cheese in a, mortar 
 with a little butter, and adding wine, vinegar, 
 pepper, and mustard according to taste, until it 
 is of the consistency of stiff paste. It is thfiri 
 used as a relish with bread and butter or bis- 
 cuits for luncheon, supper, etc. Cream cheese 
 may be made into a paste by mixing it with a 
 little flour and butter, and two or three eggs 
 beaten with a little good cream. Time to pre- 
 pare, about half an hour. 
 
 CHEESE PASTRY, RAMEQUINS OF. 
 
 Take some good puff paste. Any that is left 
 after making pies, tarts, etc., will answer the 
 purpose. EoU it out lightly, and sprinkle over 
 it nicely-flavoured grated cheese. Fold the 
 paste in three and sprinkle every fold with the 
 cheese. Cut little shapes out with an ordinary 
 pastry cutter, brush them over with the beaten 
 yolk of egg, and bake in a quick oven. Serve 
 them as hot as possible. Time to bake, ten 
 minutes. Probable cost, lOd. for half a pound 
 of paste. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 CHEESE PATTIES. 
 
 Line some tartlet tins with good puff paste, 
 and half fill them with a mixture made thus. 
 Put a quarter of a pound of cheese, cut into 
 small pieces, in a mortar with a pinch of salt, 
 half a tea-spoonful of pepper, half a tea-spoon- 
 ful of raw mustard, and a piece of butter the 
 size of an egg. Pound it smoothly, and add, by 
 degrees, the well-beaten yolks of three eggs, 
 and a table-spoonful of sherry. Mix these in- 
 gredients thoroughly, and just before the patties 
 are to be baked add the white of an egg beaten 
 to a solid froth. Bake in a quick oven. Timp, 
 about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 
 l^d. each. Allow one for each person. 
 
 CHEESE, POTTED. 
 
 Put half a pound of cheese, Cheshire, Glo'ster, 
 or Stilton, cut into small pieces, into a marble 
 mortar, with one ounce and a half of fresh 
 butter, a tea-spoonful of sifted loaf sugar, a 
 tea-spoonful of made mustard, and a little cay- 
 enne, curry powder, or anchovy powder. Pound 
 these ingredients well together, and as soon as 
 the mixture becomes a smooth paste, put it into 
 a jar, cover it with clarified butter, and tie it up 
 closely. A little sherry may be added or not. 
 Potted cheese is good spread on bread and 
 butter, and is more digestible than when eaten 
 in the usual way. Dry cheese may be used for 
 it. If very dry a larger proportion of butter 
 will be required. If the butter used is sweet, 
 and it is covered quite closely, it will keep good 
 for two or three weeks. Time, about twenty 
 minutes. Probable cost. Is. 2d. per pound. 
 Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 CHEESE PUDDING. 
 
 Put a breakfast-cupful of milk into a sauce- 
 pan, with a piece of butter the size of a large 
 egg. Let it remain until the butter is melted, 
 then pour it over three-quarters of a pound of 
 bread-crumbs, and half a pound of grated 
 
 cheese; let these soak for twenty minutes, then 
 add a pinch of salt and four eggs well beaten. 
 Pour the mixture into a well-buttered dish, and 
 bake in a quick oven. This is a good way to 
 finish up a rather dry crust of cheese. Time to 
 bake, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 
 exclusive of the cheese, 9d. Sufficient for six 
 persons. 
 
 CHEESE PUDDING (another way). 
 
 Take half a pound of finely-grated cheese, and 
 mix it with the well-beaten yolks of five eggs , 
 add two ounces of fresh butter beaten to a 
 cream, and a cupful of new milk, and last of 
 all, put in the white of an egg whisked to a 
 solid froth. Line the edges of a dish with puff 
 paste, well butter the inside, pour in the mix- 
 ture, and'bake in a good oven. Before serving, 
 strew a little grated Parmesan cheese over the 
 pudding. Time to bake, half an hour. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 CHEESE RAMEQUINS. 
 
 Mix two ounces of flour very smoothly with a 
 cupful of water, and put it, with a little salt and 
 pepper, and a piece of butter about the size of an 
 egg, into a saucepan. Let it boil for three or 
 four minutes, then stir in four ounces of fine 
 Cheshire' cheese crumbled; let it boil another 
 minute, and add three eggs well beaten; put 
 them in gradually, stirring all the time. Have 
 ready a well-oiled baking-tin, and drop this 
 mixture upon it, in lumps about the size of a 
 small apple. Press them slightly in the centre, 
 brush them over with egg, and put a tea-spoon- 
 ful of Gruyere cheese in small pieces in the- 
 middle. Bake in a hot oven, and serve as hot as- 
 possible. If preferred, Parmesan cheese may be 
 used instead of Cheshire. Time to bake, about 
 twelve minutes. Sufficient for four or fiv&- 
 ramequins. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 CHEESE SANDWICH. 
 
 Put three ounces of good rich cheese, cut 
 into small pieces, into a mortar with an ounce 
 of butter, a tea-spoonful of made mustard, andr 
 two boned anchovies. Pound these ingredients 
 to a smooth paste, spread this between two slices 
 of brown bread and butter, and lay over it very 
 thin slices of salt beef, ham, or tongue. Cut 
 the sandwiches into pretty shapes, and arrange 
 them on a napkin garnished with bunches of 
 green parsley. Time,^half an hour to prepare. 
 Sufficient, allow one sandwich for each person. 
 Probable cost, 2d. each. 
 
 CHEESE SOUFFLE. 
 
 Melt an ounce of butter in a saucepan, mix 
 smoothly with it one ounce of flour, a pinch of 
 salt and cayenne, and a quarter of a pint of 
 milk; simmer the mixture gently over the fire,^ 
 stirring it all the time, till it is as thick as 
 melted butter ; stir into it about three ounces of 
 finely-grated Parmesan or good Cheshire cheese. 
 Turn it into a basin, and mix with it the yolks 
 of two eggs well beaten. Whisk three whites to- 
 a solid froth, and just before the souffle is baked, 
 put them into it, and pour the mixture into a 
 souifle dish or small round tin. It should be 
 only half filled, as the contents will rise very 
 high. Pin a napkin round the dish in v/hich it 
 is baked, and serve it the moment it is taken out 
 
CHE 
 
 118 
 
 CHE 
 
 of the oven, as If it is allowed to fall, its beauty 
 will be entirely gone. On this account it is 
 better to have a metal cover over it strongly 
 heated. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost. 
 Is. 3d. if made with milk. Sufficient for six 
 persons. 
 
 CHEESE SOUFFLE (another way). 
 
 Boil a quarter of a pint of milk, and stir into 
 it till melted an ounce of butter. Pour it upon 
 half a tea-cupful of fine bread-crumbs. Soak 
 a few minutes, then add half a tea-cupful of 
 grated cheese, the yolks of two eggs, and a little 
 salt. Butter a soufB.e tin, and tie round it, to 
 make the sides higher, a band of buttered paper. 
 Just before putting the souffle into the oven, 
 dash in the whites of three eggs which have 
 been whisked to a firm froth. Bake in a quick 
 oven till the centre is firm, and serve imme- 
 diately. 
 
 CHEESE SOUP, WITHOUT MEAT. 
 
 Grate very finely half a pound of rather dry 
 Gruyere or any other light-coloured cheese; 
 strew a layer of it at the bottom of the soup 
 tureen, and over this place two or three very 
 thin slices of the stale crumb of bread. Eepeat 
 this until all the cheese is used, when one-fourth 
 of the depth of the tureen should be occupied. 
 Put a piece of fresh butter about the size of an 
 egg into a saucepan; let it melt, and stir into 
 it, very smoothly, a table-spodnful of flour, and 
 let it remain on the fire, stirring it constantly, 
 until it ' browns ; then throw in two table-spoon- 
 fuls of finely-minced onions. When they are 
 browned, stir in gradually a quart of water, let 
 it boil, season with pepper and salt, and just 
 before pouring it into the tureen, brown it with 
 a little burnt sugar {see Cabamel). Let the soup 
 stand a couple of minutes before the fire to soak 
 the bread and cheese, and when that is done, 
 serve at once. The contents of the tureen 
 should not be disturbed till it appears on the 
 table. Time, one hour. Probable cost, 1e. 2d. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 CHEESE, STEWED. 
 
 This is a good Way to use cheese which has 
 become too dry to serve in the ordinary manner. 
 Of course, fresh cheej3 is to be preferred. Put 
 two ounces of good double Glo'ster or Cheshire 
 cheese, chopped small, into a saucepan, with 
 half an ounce of butter, or more if the cheese is 
 very dry. Add' sufficient cream or new milk to 
 cover it, and let it simmer gently, stirring it 
 every now and then, until the cheese is dis- 
 solved. Take it from the fire for a minute or 
 two, and mix in very gradually a well-beaten 
 egg. Serve it on a hot dish, and stick little 
 three-cornered sippets of toasted bread in it. 
 Serve as hot aS possible. Time to stew, ten or 
 fifteen minutes. Probable cost, if made with 
 milk, 6d. Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 CHEESE, STEWED (another way). 
 
 Proceed exactly as above, but instead of 
 covering the sliced cheese in the saucepan with 
 new milk, cover it with ale, porter, or port, and 
 flavour it with mixed mustard and cayenne. 
 Serve as hot as possible. Time to stew the 
 cheese, ten or fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 
 4d., exclusive of the ale or wine. Sufficient for 
 four persons. 
 
 CHEESE, STILTON. 
 
 This cheese is considered by competent judges 
 to be preferable to any other. It should be kept 
 about twelve months in order to ripen it, and 
 many persons endeavour to accelerate this by 
 scooping out a little cheese in three or four 
 places and pouring good port or old ale into it, 
 then stopping the holes again with the cheese, 
 and allowing it to remain two or three weeks. 
 When the cheese is ready to serve, the rind 
 should be cut from the top in a slice about a 
 quarter of an inch in thickness, to be used as a 
 hd, and this should be replaced on the top of the 
 cheese when it is sent from the table. It should 
 be kept closely covered in a rather damp place. 
 It should be served with a clean napkin neatly 
 pinned round it. Probable cost. Is. 3d. to 
 Is. 8d. per pound. 
 
 CHEESE STRAWS. 
 
 Mix two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, 
 two ounces of fresh butter, two ounces of flour, 
 an ounce of Cheddar cheese, and the yolk of an 
 egg into a stiff paste. Flavour the mixture with 
 cayenne, salt, and a very little pounded mace. 
 Eoll this out rather thinly, cut it into fingers 
 about four inches long and half an inch wide, 
 bake them for a few minutes in a quick oven, 
 and serve cold. They should be piled on a dish 
 in transverse rows. Probable cost, 5d. Suf- 
 ficient for six persons. 
 
 CHEESE, TOASTED. 
 
 Slice some good, rich cheese. Put it in a 
 cheese-toaster on a hot plate, and when it is 
 melted, stir into it some made mustard and 
 pepper. A little port or beer is sometimes 
 added, and if the cheese is at all dry a little 
 butter should be also used. Toast should be 
 served with it. This dish is worth nothing at 
 all unless it can be served quite hot. Toasted 
 cheese is sometimes sent to table in little tins 
 with boiling water underneath, and this is an 
 excellent way to keep the toast hot. A few 
 minutes will be sufficient to melt the cheese. 
 
 CHEESE, TOASTED, OR WELSH RAREBIT. 
 
 Cut some slices of the crumb of bread about 
 half an inch in thickness, and toast them lightly 
 on both sides. Lay on them some slices of good 
 rich cheese, and put them in a cheese-toaster till 
 the cheese is melted. Spread a little made 
 mustard and pepper over them, and serve en 
 very hot plates. It is most desirable to send 
 this dish to table quite hot, as without this it is 
 entirely worthless. (See also Welsh Babbbit.) 
 
 CHEESE, TO KEEP. 
 
 When a whole cheese is out, and the consump- 
 tion small, it generally becomes dry, and loses 
 its flavour after it has been used a little while. 
 In order to prevent this, a small piece should be 
 cut for use, and the remainder rubbed with 
 butter, wrapped in a clean cloth, and 'placed in 
 a covered jar, which should be kept in a cool 
 and rather damp place. If these directions are 
 attended to, a whole cheese might be purchased 
 at a time, and the goodness preserved until it is 
 finished. This will be found to be much more 
 economical than buying it in small quantities. 
 Cheese which has become too dry to be presented 
 at table may be used for stewing, or grated for 
 macaroni. The mould which gathers on cheese 
 
CHE 
 
 119 
 
 CH£ 
 
 should be wiped off with a damp cloth. If any 
 mites appear, a little brandy should be poured 
 over the pjirt. 
 
 CHEESE, WITH EGGS. 
 
 Place in a fireproof dish a piece of butter, a 
 little salad oil, and some slices of good rich 
 cheese. Put in the oven, and when the cheese 
 is melted, break two or three whole eggs into it, 
 and return to the oven. When the whites set, 
 sprinkle grated cheese and pepper on them, and 
 serve as hot as possible in the same dish in 
 which they have been cooked. Probable cost, 
 6d. or 8d. 
 
 CHEESE, WITH MACARONI. 
 
 Put a quarter of a pound of pipe macaroni 
 into a saucepan with a little salt, and sufficient 
 boiling milk and water to cover it. Let it boil 
 until it is quite tender' but firm, tiien put a layer 
 of it into a well-buttered dish, -and Over that 
 sprinkle some bread-crumbs and a mixture of 
 Parmesan and Cheshire cheese. Place three or 
 four lumps of butter on it, and repeat until the 
 dish is full, being careful to have bread-crumbs 
 at the top. Pour a little butter warmed, but 
 not oiled, over the crumbs, and brown the pre- 
 paration before a clear fire, or with a sala- 
 mander, but do not put it in the oven, or it will 
 taste of oil. Serve with salt and mustard. 
 Eiband macaroni may be used if pref eired, and 
 it will not require so much boiling. It may be 
 boiled in water without the milk, and a little 
 butter added instead. Time to boil the mac- 
 aroni, about one hour and a half. Probable cost, 
 Is. 8d. Sufficient for four or five petsOlis. 
 
 CHEESE, WITH MACARONI (another way). 
 
 Boil a quarter of a pound of macaroni in milk 
 and water until it is tender but firm, then drain 
 it and place it at the bottom of a well-buttered 
 pie-dish. Whisk well the yolks of two eggs, 
 and stir into them a breakfast-cupful of cream 
 and half a cupful of the liquid in which the 
 macaroni was boiled. Stir this gently over the 
 fire until it thickens, but on no account allow 
 it to boil. Pour it on the macaroni, and sprinkle 
 over the top three table-spoonfuls of grated 
 cheese. Brown the mixture before a clear fire, 
 or with a salamander, and serve. Time to boil 
 the macaroni, one hour and a half. Probable 
 cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 CHEESE, WITH MACARONI (another wsy). 
 
 Drop a quarter of a pound of macaroni in 
 some boiling milk and water, and let it simmer 
 gently until is is quite tender but firm. Put 
 four ounces of grated cheese in a breakfast- 
 cupful of boiled cream or new milk, and place 
 the mixture in a saucepan with a blade of mace, 
 three or four grains of cayenne, a piece of butter, 
 and a little salt. The cheese must be quite free 
 from rind, and should be stirred constantly until 
 it is quite melted, and we would recommend a 
 mixture of cheeses, such as Parmesan and 
 Gruyere, as Parmesan, if used by itself, 
 soon gets Jumpy. When it is dissolved, add 
 the boiled macaroni to it,' first putting it in a 
 sieve for two or three minutes to drain. Let it 
 simmer for a few minutes longer, then put it 
 into a dish, strew over it some finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs, and brown in a hot oven, or with 
 a salamander. Good white sauce may be sub- 
 
 stituted for the cream. Time, one hour and a 
 half to boil the macaroni. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. Probable cost. Is. 2d. 
 
 CHEESECAKES. 
 
 Beat the yolks of four and the whites of two 
 oggs separately ; the whites must be beaten to a 
 solid froth. Rub the rind of a lemon upon a 
 quarter of a pound of loaf sugar ; then pound it, 
 and mix it with the eggs. Add a quarter of a 
 pound of fresh butter melted, and the juice of 
 two lemons. When these are well beaten to- 
 gether, put the mixture into a large jar, which 
 should be placed in a pan of boiling water on the 
 fire. Stir it constantly until it thickens. Line 
 some tartlet-tins with a good light cruSt, and 
 three-parts fill them with the mixture. When 
 nearly baked, take them out of the oven for a 
 minute, brush them over with white of egg, and 
 sift a little pounded sugar over them, and put 
 them bsck into the oven to brown. Time to 
 bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, IJd. 
 each. Sufficient tor two dozen cheesecates. 
 
 CHEESECAKES, ALMOND. 
 
 Blanch and pound a quarter of a pound of 
 sweet almonds and four or five bitter ones ; add 
 a quarter of a, ppund of finely-sifted sugar, a 
 quarter of a pound of butter, the thin rind of a 
 lemon minced as finely as possible, the j^iice of 
 half a lemon, and a table-spoonful of sherry or 
 brandy. Line tartlet-tins with good puff paste, 
 and just before filling them, add the yolks of 
 four and the whites of two eggs. Bake in a 
 quick oven. Time to bake, fifteen or twenty 
 minutes. Probable cost, 2d. each. Sufficient 
 for two dozen cheesecakes. (See AiMOND 
 Chebseoakes.) 
 
 CHEESECAKES, APPLE. 
 
 Grate half a pound of apples, weighed after 
 they are pared and cored, add the grated rinds 
 of two lemons, half a pound of melted butter, 
 half a pound of finely-sifted sugar, and the well- 
 beaten yolks of six eggs. Line the tartlet-tins, 
 three-parts fill them with the mixture, and bake 
 in a quick oven. Time to bake, fifteen or twenty 
 minutes. Probable cost, 2d. each. Sufficient 
 for three dozen cheesecakes. (See Apple Cheese- 
 cakes.) 
 
 CHEESECAKES, BREAD. 
 
 Pour. a breSkfast-cupful of boiling milk over 
 eight ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and 
 when they have soaked a little while, beat them 
 up with three ounces of butter, melted. When 
 quite cold, add three ounces of finely-sifted 
 sugar, three ounces of currants, picked and 
 dried, and half a small nutmeg grated. Last of 
 all add the yolks of four and the whites of three 
 eggs, beaten up with a table-spoonful of brandy. 
 Line the tartlet-tins with a good light crust. 
 Rather more than half fill them with the mix- 
 ture, and bake in a quick oven for fifteen or 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost, IJd. each. 
 Sufficient for three dozen cheesecakes. 
 
 CHEESECAKES, CHESTER. 
 
 Line some patty-pans with rich short pastry, 
 and nearly fill with the following compound. Mix 
 four ounces of flour with two ounces of sifted 
 sugar; add by degrees two ounces of butter 
 beaten to a cream, and three well-beaten eggs; 
 
CHE 
 
 120 
 
 CHE 
 
 flavour with vanilla. Bak^ in a fairly hot oven 
 for ten minutes. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 CHEESECAKES, HOME-MADE. 
 
 Put four well-beaten eggs into a saucepan con- 
 taining a pint of boiling milk, and let it remain 
 on the fire until it curdles. Pour off the whey, 
 and put the curd on an inverted sieve to drain. 
 When it is cjuite dry, add two table-spoonfuls of 
 sugar, a little salt, six ounces of carefully- 
 washed currants, a piece of butter about the size 
 of an egg, melted, two spoonfuls of rose-water 
 or cream, and half a tea-spoonful of pounded 
 cinnamon. Line the tartlet-tins with good puff 
 paste, three-parts fill them with the mixture, 
 and bake in a good oven. Time to bake, 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost. Id. each. Suf- 
 ficient for two dozen cheesecakes. 
 
 CHEESECAKES, HOME-MADE (another way). 
 
 Mix three heaped table-spoonfuls of ground 
 rice with six of good milk till the paste is quite 
 smooth, then pour on it gradually, stirring all 
 the time, a pint of boiling milk. Put it on the 
 fire, and let it simmer till it thickens, then add 
 three table-spoonfuls of sugar, half a tea-spoon- 
 ful of ground cinnamon, a little grated lemon- 
 rind, and three ounces of butter. Mix these 
 well together, pour the mixture into a basin, 
 and when cool, stir in four eggs beaten up with 
 a table-spoonful of brandy. Line the tartlet- 
 tins with a good light crust, three-parts fill 
 them with the mixture, and bake in a quick 
 oven. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Prob- 
 able cost. Id. each. Sufficient for four dozen 
 cheesecakes. 
 CHEESECAKES, LEMON. 
 
 Kub the peel of two large lemons with half a 
 pound of loaf sugar. Whisk six eggs thor- 
 oughly, add the sugar pounded, and the juice of 
 one lemon. Melt half a pound of butter in a 
 saucepan, with five table-spoonfuls of cream, 
 add the other ingredients, and stir the mixture 
 over the fire until it begins to thicken. When 
 cold, fill the tartlet-tins, previously lined with 
 good puff paste, a little more than half full, and 
 bake them in a quick oven for fifteen or twenty 
 minutes. Probable cost, 2d. each. Sufficient 
 for four dozen cheesecakes. 
 
 CHEESECAKES, POTATO. 
 
 Grate the thin rind of two lemons, then pound 
 them well with two table-spoonfuls of finely- 
 sitted sugar, and three ounces of potato which 
 has been boiled until it has become floury. Stir 
 a couple of ounces of clarified butter in with the 
 mixture, and when smooth add the yolks of two 
 and the white of one egg. Line the tartlet-tins 
 with a light crust, rather more than half fill 
 them, and bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost. Id. each. Suf- 
 ficient for a dozen and a half cheesecakes. 
 
 CHEESECAKES, SAVOURY. 
 
 Mix thoroughly a pint of well-drained curd, 
 three ounces of butter, the yolks of six and 
 the whites of two eggs well beaten. Eub them 
 through a coarse sieve, and add a quarter of a 
 pound of grated Parmesan, and a little salt and 
 pepper. If preferred, the curd may be omitted, 
 pnd a little cream substituted. Of course, in 
 that case, there would be no necessity to rub the 
 mixture through a sieve. Line some tartlet- 
 
 tins with good crust, three-parts fill them with 
 the mixture, and bake in a good oven for about 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost, IJd. each. 
 Sufficient for four dozen cheesecakes. 
 CHEESECAKES, WINTER. 
 
 A curd for cheesecakes may be made by mix- 
 ing as much grated biscuit with five eggs and a 
 pint of cream as will make a light batter ; sugar 
 and flavouring should be added. To make the 
 paste, mix a pound of flour, a table-spoonful of 
 baking powder, and salt, with the whisked 
 whites of two eggs. Divide half a pound of 
 butter into three parts, roll out the pastry three 
 times, and each time spread one part of the 
 butter upon it, flour lightly, and proceed as in 
 the foregoing recipe. 
 
 CHELTENHAM CAKES. 
 
 Take six pounds of flour, a quarter of a 
 pound of butter, the yolks of two eggs, and a 
 tea-cupful of yeast; mix all together with some 
 warm milk; set it to rise for an hour; make 
 into round cakes ; let them rise again, and bake 
 in a moderate oven for ten minutes or a quarter 
 of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 CHELTENHAM PUDDING. 
 
 Shred six ounces of suet very finely, add six 
 ounces of flour, a pinch of salt, and a heaped 
 tea-spoonful of baking powder, two ounces of 
 bread-crumbs, three ounces of raisins, three 
 ounces of currants, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, 
 and half a nutmeg grated. Mix these ingre- 
 dients well together, and stir into the mixture 
 two well-beaten eggs and sufficient new milk to 
 make it into a stiff smooth batter. Pour it into 
 a buttered dish and bake in a good oven. Turn 
 it out when sufficiently cooked, and serve with 
 brandied sauce. Time to bake, one hour and a 
 half. Sufficient for five or six persons. Prob- 
 able cost, lOd. 
 
 CHERRIES, CANDIED. 
 
 Choose fine, sound, ripe cherries, take off the 
 stalks, and wipe them with a soft cloth, then 
 pour over them some syrup boiled ready to 
 candy. Move them gently about, and, when 
 cold, put them in a cool oven for half an hour to 
 dry. Probable cost of cherries, 3d. to 6d. per 
 pound. Half a pound of cherries, garnished 
 with leaves, will make a small dish. 
 
 CHERRIES, COMPOTE OF. 
 
 Choose large, ripe, light-coloured cherries, 
 wipe them, and leave on them about an inch of 
 stalk, making all uniform. Put half a pound of 
 sugar into a saucepan with a breakfast-cupful of 
 water, and let it boil for ten minutes, then put 
 into it a pound and a half of the cherries, and 
 simmer them for three minutes. Dish them 
 with the stalks uppermost. A table-spoonful of 
 brandy may be added to the syrup. Probable 
 cost of cherries, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient 
 for a large dish. 
 
 CHERRIES, COMP6tE OF (another way). 
 
 Take off the stems from Kentish or Morella 
 cherries. Make a syrup with five ounces of 
 sugar and half a pint of water for the former, 
 but allow another ounce of sugar for the extra 
 acidity of the Morellas. Stew one pound of the 
 fruit in the syrup for twenty .minutes; they 
 may be stoned or not. When the Morellaa are 
 
CHE 
 
 121 
 
 CHE 
 
 i 
 
 very ripe, they may be stewed only ten minutes, 
 and will then be excellent. Time : ten mimites 
 to boil sugar ; eight to ten minutes Morellas ; 
 fifteen minutes for Kentish cherries. Probable 
 cost of cherries, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Morella 
 cherries are generally rather more expensive. 
 CHERRIES, DRIED. 
 
 Stone the cherries carefully without spoiling 
 the fruit. This may be done by pushing the 
 stones through the end with a bodkin or silver 
 skewer. Put them into a preserving-pan, and 
 strew amongst them finely-sifted sugar, allow- 
 ing eight ounces of sugar to every pound of 
 fruit. Simmer for ten minutes, then pour them 
 into a bowl, and leave them until next day, when 
 they must be again simmered for ten minutes ; 
 and this process must be repeated for three days. 
 Drain well, put them on a sieve or wire tray, so 
 that they do not touch each other, and place this 
 in an oven sufficiently cool to dry without baking 
 them. They must be turned about every now 
 and then that they may be equally dried. If 
 the oven is too hot, their colour will be spoilt. 
 When dried, keep them in tin boxes with writ- 
 ing-paper between each layer. Kentish cherries 
 are best for this purpose. They will be found 
 useful for garnishing dishes, or for dessert. 
 Probable cost of the cherries, 3d. to 6d. per 
 pound. 
 
 CHERRIES, FROSTED. 
 
 Choose large, ripe, sound cherries. Wipe 
 them with a dry soft cloth, and dip them in a 
 liquid made of the whites of two eggs which 
 have been whisked to a firm froth and mixed 
 with a quarter of a pint of spring water. As the 
 cherries are taken out of the egg, drain them 
 and roll them one by one in finely-sifted sugar. 
 Put some clean writing paper on an inverted 
 sieve, put them on this so that they do not 
 touch one another, and let them dry till wanted. 
 Time, six or eight hours to dry the fruit. Prob- 
 able cost, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient, one 
 pound for a small dessert-dish. 
 
 CHERRIES, KENTISH, COMPOTE OF. 
 
 Put a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar into a 
 saucepan with a breakfast-cupful of water, and 
 boil it for ten minutes. Put in half a pound 
 of Kentiah cherries, with about an inch of the 
 stalks left on; let them simmer gently for five 
 minutes. Drain them, and put them into a 
 compote dish with the stalks upwards. Boil 
 the syrup five minutes longer; when it is cool, 
 pour it over the cherries. Time, twenty 
 minutes. Probable cost of cherries, from 3d. 
 to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for a small dish. 
 CHERRIES, MORELLA, BRANDIED. 
 
 The fruit should be freshly gathered, and the 
 largest and best selected. Let each cherry have 
 about an inch of stem left on. Put them into 
 quart bottles with wide necks, and pour four 
 ounces of pounded candy-sugar (the brown is the 
 best) into each bottle. Pour in sufficient best 
 French brandy to fill the bottles, and add a few 
 cherry or apricot kernels, or a small portion of 
 cinnamon, if liked. Time, to infuse, one month. 
 Probable cost, 4s. to 6s. per bottle. 
 CHERRIES, MORELLA, TO PRESERVE. 
 
 Choose sound, ripe Morella cherries, and allow 
 one pound and a quarter of sugar, and half a 
 
 cupful of red or white currant juice for every 
 pound of cherries. Pick and stone the cherries, 
 or, if preferred, merely prick each one with a 
 needle. Put the sugar and syrup into a pre- 
 serving-pan, and let it boil for ten minutes. 
 Throw in the cherries, and simmer them gently 
 until they look bright and clear. Turn the fruit 
 into jars. Cover with oiled papers, and tissue 
 paper dipped in strong gum. Time to boil, 
 about half an hour. Probable cost of cherries, 
 lOd. per pound. 
 
 CHERRIES PRESERVED IN SYRUP. 
 
 Choose light, sound, ripe cherries. Remove 
 the stones without injuring the fruit, which 
 may be done by drawing them out with the 
 stalk, or pushing them out at one end with a 
 bodkin or quill. Allow a pint and a half of 
 water and a pound of sugar for every pound of 
 fruit, weighed after it has been stoned. Put 
 the sugar and Vvater into a preserving-pan, and 
 let it boil *or a quarter of an hour, skimming it 
 carefully ; then throw in the fruit, and let it boil 
 for another quarter of an hour. Pour it with 
 the syrup intc a large jar, and let it remain until 
 next day, when the cherries must be put into a 
 sieve to drain, and a pint of white currant juice 
 (see CuBBANT Juice) allowed for every four 
 pounds of cherries. The juice and the syrup 
 must be boiled together fifteen minutes, when 
 the cherries may be put with them and boiled 
 again for four or five minutes. Put the cherries 
 into jars, cover them with the syrup, lay brandy 
 papers on the top, and tie them down closely. 
 It will be more economical in small families to 
 put the preserve into one-pound pots, as there 
 is an amount of evaporation in larger jars, which 
 makes a considerable difference in the expense. 
 Probable cost of cherries, 3d. to 6d. per pound. 
 
 CHERRIES, TO BOTTLE. 
 
 Have ready some wide-mouthed bottles, such 
 as are generally used for bottling fruit, and 
 ascertain that they are quite dry. Cut the 
 stalks from the cherries — do not pull them out — 
 put the fruit into the bottles, shake them down, 
 and put two table-spoonfuls of finely-sifted loaf 
 sugar at the top of every bottle. Cork them 
 closely, and tie them down; put them into a 
 large pan of cold water, bring it to a boil, let it 
 stand on the hob for five minutes, then lift the 
 vessel from the fire, and let the bottles remain in 
 it until the water is cold. The juice of the fruit 
 ought to cover it. The corks must be looked 
 after when the fruit has been scalded, and re- 
 fitted if necessary. When the fruit comes to be 
 used, the juice ought to be strained off, and 
 boiled with a little sugar, and, when cold, put 
 into the tarts instead of water. Time, about 
 an hour. Probable cost of cherries, 3d. to 6d. 
 per pound. 
 CHERRIES, TO PRESERVE. 
 
 Take two pounds of sound, ripe Kentish 
 cherries, weighed after they have been picked 
 and stoned. Put a pound of sifted sugar into 
 the preserving-pan with half a pint of red cur- 
 rant juice, or, if this is not at hand, water, and 
 let it boil for five minutes. Throw in the 
 cherries, which ought not to have been injured 
 in the stoning, and let them boil for ten minutes, 
 stirring them only just enough to keep them 
 from burning, as it is very desirable not to 
 
 J 
 
CHE 
 
 122 
 
 CHE 
 
 break them, four all together into a bowl, and 
 let it remain until next day, then drain the 
 fruit, boil the syrup with eight ounces more 
 sugar, and boil the cherries in it again for 
 another ten minutes. Put the preserve into jars, 
 and cover closely, as usual. In the preparation 
 of cherries for preserving, it is necessary that 
 the greatest care should be observed. The 
 slightest deviation from the instructions given 
 Jiere will make the cherries unpalatable. 
 
 CHERRIES, TO PRESERVE (another way). 
 
 Choose sound, ripe cherries (May Dukes or 
 Kentish cherries will be the best for the pur- 
 pose), itone them, and after stoning take half 
 their weight in sugar, and half a pint of water 
 for each pound of sugar. Boil the sugar and 
 water together to make a clear syrup, put in 
 the fruit, and let it boil for eight minutes, being 
 careful not to break the cherries when stirring. 
 Pour all into a bowl, and leave for twenty-four 
 hours. Strain off the fruit, and boil the syrup 
 again with the addition of one half the original 
 weight in sugar. Again put in the fruit, and 
 boil for eight minutes more. When the preserve 
 is cold turn it into jars, and cover it in the usual 
 way. 
 
 CHERRY BRANDY (to be made in July or August). 
 The Morella cherry is generally used for this 
 purpose, on account of its peculiar acfdity. It 
 ripens latei; than other cherries, and is more ex- 
 pensive. It is seldom used as a dessert fruit; 
 nevertheless, if allowed to hang until fully ripe, 
 it is very refreshing and agreeable to many pal- 
 ates. The cherries for brandy should be gath- 
 ered in dry weather, and must be used when 
 fresh. They ought not to be over-ripe. Wipe 
 each one with a soft cloth, and cut the stalks, 
 leaving them about half an inch in length. A 
 little more than half fill wide-necked bottles such 
 as are used for bottling fruit. Allow three 
 ounces of pounded sugar to each pound of 
 fruit, which must be placed in with it. Pill the 
 bottles with the best French brandy. Do not 
 make the mistake of supposing that the fruit 
 and sugar will make bad spirit pass for good. 
 Cork the bottles securely, and seal over the top. 
 The cherries may be. used in a month, but will 
 be better in two. Three or four cloves put in 
 the bottle ate by many considered an improve- 
 ment. Probable cost of Morella cherries, lOd. 
 to Is. per pound. 
 
 CHERRY BRANDY (another way). 
 
 Choose sound, fresh Morella cherries, wipe 
 them, and cut off the stalks to within half an 
 inch, prick each cherry with a needle, half fill a 
 wide-necked bottle with them, and to each bottle 
 put a dozen scraped bitter almonds and a quarter 
 of a pound of white sugar-candy crushed small. 
 Fill with best French brandy, cork securely, 
 and seal over the top. The brandy will be 
 better if kept for a few months. Probable cost 
 of cherries, lOd. to Is. per pound. 
 
 CHERRY BRANDY (another way). 
 
 Put six pounds of black cherries, six pounds 
 of Morellas, and two pounds of strawberries in a 
 cask. Bruise them slightly with a stick, then 
 add three pounds of sugar, twelve cloves, half 
 an ounce of powdered cinnamon, and two nut- 
 megs grated, with a quarter of the kernels of 
 
 the cherry-stones, and a handful, of mint and 
 balm. Pour over these six quarts of brandy or 
 gin. Let the cask remain open for ten days, 
 then close it, and in two months it will be fit for 
 use. Probable cost, Morella cherries, lOd. to Is. 
 per pound. Sufficient for one gallon and a half 
 of cherry brandy. 
 
 CHERRY CAKE. 
 
 Put one pound of flour into a basin with half 
 a pound of butter, ten beaten eggs, half a pound 
 of fine sugar, a pinch of salt; and a spoonful of 
 baking-powder. Mix well together to make a 
 firm paste* Addi- two or three spoonfuls of 
 cream or milk with twelve ounces of cherries 
 previously boiled in water and then half cooked 
 in sugar. Line some cake moulds with buttered 
 paper, which should be higher than the moulds ; 
 half fill the moulds with the dough, and let it 
 rise in a warm place. When it has risen enough, 
 cook the cakes in a moderately hot oven, then 
 turn out of the tins to cool on a wire atsind. 
 Serve with the paper on. Orange- or lemon-peel 
 can be added if desired. Probable cost, 2s. 9d. 
 
 CHERRY DRINK. 
 
 Wash and stone half a pound of sound ripe 
 cherries, bruise, and pour over them a pint of 
 boiling water, and add a piece of thin lemon- 
 rind, or, if preferred, a few of the kernels 
 bruised. Let them soak for four or five hours, 
 then strain and sweeten the liquid with two 
 ounces of sifted loaf sugar, and, if liked, add a 
 dessert-spoonful of brandy. This is a refreshing 
 beverage in hot weather. Probable cost, 3d., 
 exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for one 
 person. 
 
 CHERRY JAM. 
 
 CJhoose sound, ripe Kentish cherries, remove 
 the stones, and boil the kei'nels in a little water 
 to draw out the flavour ; this will impart a very 
 agreeable taste to the jam. Weigh the fruit, 
 after stoning it, and allow one pound of sifted 
 sugar to one pound of fruit. Put the sugar into 
 a preserving-pan with a cupful of the water in 
 which the kernels were boiled to each two pounds 
 of fruit, making up the measure with water, 
 or red currant juice. Boil to a syrup, then add 
 the fruit and boil it very quickly until it is on 
 the point of jellying. Pour it into jars, cover it 
 with brandied paper, and put over this paper 
 dipped in gum. Time to boil the sugar and 
 water er juice to a syrup, about ten minutes; 
 the syrup and fruit to the point of jellying, 
 about forty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. or 9d. 
 per pound. 
 
 CHERRY JELLY IN MOULDS. 
 
 Boil six pounds of Morella cherries till they 
 come to a pulp, which will be in about twenty 
 minutes. Strain through a jelly-bag. Measure 
 the liquor, and allow three-quarters of a pound 
 of loaf sugar to every pint. Eeturn to the pan 
 with the sugar, and let it boil. Add one and a 
 half ounces of melted isinglass. Strain again 
 through a jelly-bag into a mould, and set it in a 
 cool place, or in the ice chest, until wanted. 
 Probable cost, 4b. 
 
 CHERRY PASTE. 
 
 In making cherry paste the fruit is boiled 
 nearly dry before the sugar is added, and then 
 the weight of the pulp is taken in sugar. 
 
CHE 
 
 123 
 
 CHE 
 
 and boiled with it until the fruit leaveB the pan 
 entirely, and adheres to the spoon. It is then 
 pressed into moulds, and kept like other dried 
 fruits. It should not be covered up until it is 
 quite dry. Probable cost of cherries, 3d. to 6d. 
 per pound. 
 CHERRY PIE. 
 
 Black cherries are generally considered best 
 for pies. Wash and pick the fruit, and place it 
 in a pie-dish, piling it high in the middle ; strew 
 a, little sugar over it, and cover it with a 
 light crust. Bake in a good oven for about 
 three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost of 
 cherries, 3d. to 6d. per pound. A pie made with 
 two pounds of fruit will be sufficient for four or 
 five persons. 
 
 CHERRY PUDDING, BAKED. 
 
 Wash and stone the cherries, put a layer of 
 them at the bottom of a well-buttered pie-dish, 
 and strew over this a little sifted sugar and a 
 small quantity of finely-chopped lemon-rind; 
 lay over these some thin bread and butter, and 
 repeat the layers until the dish is full, finishing 
 with cherries strewn over with sugar; pour a 
 large cupful of water over the whole, and bake 
 in a good oven. This pudding may be made 
 with dried or preserved cherries, when, instead 
 of water, a little custard may be used to moisten 
 the bread. The kernels of the cherries, too, may 
 be blanched and sliced, and used instead of 
 lemon-rind. Time to bake, three-quarters of an 
 hour. Probable cost of cherries, 3d. to 6d. per 
 pound. A pudding made with two pounds of 
 cherries will serve for five or six persons. 
 
 CHERRY PUDDING, BOILED. 
 
 Make some good suet crust, line a plain, round 
 buttered basin with it, leaving a little over the 
 rim ; fill it with cherries, washed and picked, 
 add a little sugar and some finely-chopped 
 lemon-rind, wet the edges of the paste, lay a 
 cover over the pudding, and press the edges 
 closely round. Tie a floured cloth over the 
 pudding, and plunge it into a saucepan of boil- 
 ing water, which must be kept boiling, or the 
 pudding will become heavy. Before turning it 
 out, dip the basin into cold water for a moment. 
 Serve with sifted sugar. A small pudding will 
 require about two hours to boil. If the cherries 
 are not fully ripe, a longer time must be allowed. 
 Probable cost of cherries, 3d. to 6d. per pound. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 CHERRY PUDDING, STEAMED. 
 
 Line a round cake-tin with thickly greased 
 paper, to come above the top. Cut some glace 
 cherries and pineapple in slices, and place alter- 
 nate rows of cherries and pineapple round the 
 tin, pressing them firmly down. Fill up the 
 inside with broken pieces of any plain cake, 
 such as sponge. Do not pack too closely. Make 
 a custard with three eggs, half a pint of milk, 
 one ounce of castor sugar, and a few drops of 
 vanilla. Strain the custard on to the cakes. 
 Place the tin in a saucepan, with boiling v/ater 
 coming half way up. Cover with a piece of 
 greased paper, and steam three-quarters of an 
 hour. Probable cost. Is. 6d. for six portions. 
 CHERRY SAUCE, FOR SWEET PUDDINGS. 
 
 Pick and stone a pound of cherries, and pound 
 the kernels to a paste. Mix a tea-spoonful of 
 
 arrowroot smoothly with a little cold milk, and 
 pour over it half a pint of boiling milk. Boil 
 it for two or three minutes, then stir into it the 
 cherries and the kernels, a tea-spoonful of 
 minced lemon-rind, half a nutmeg grated, a 
 table-spoonful of sugar, and a wine-glassful of 
 port. Let these simmer gently until the cherries 
 are quite cooked; press them through a coarse 
 sieve, boil the sauce again for two or three 
 minutes, and serve it very hot. Good melted 
 butter may be substituted for the arrowroot, if 
 preferred, and when fresh cherries are not in 
 season, cherry jam may be used. The sauce 
 ought to be as thick as custard and the colour 
 of the cherries. It is very nice for boiled or 
 baked egg puddings. Time, about half an hour. 
 Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the wine. This 
 quantity will suffice for a moderate-sized 
 pudding. 
 CHERRY TART. 
 
 Line the edges of a deep pie-dish with a good 
 short crust. Pill it with cherries, picked and 
 washed, put a cup or small jelly pot in the 
 middle of the dish, strew a little sugar over, and 
 a few red currants, if they can be got, as they 
 will considerably improve the flavour of the 
 tart. Cover the dish with a crust, and ornament 
 the edges. Brush the tart all over with cold 
 water, and sprinkle white sugar upon it. Bake 
 in a good oven. Time to bake, thirty to forty 
 minutes. Probable cost of a medium-sized tart, 
 lOd. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 CHERRY TARTLETS. 
 
 Boil three-quarters of a pint of milk with 
 three ounces of castor sugar and a strip of 
 lemon-peel. Strain, add one and a half ounces 
 of ground rice, and boil slowly for ten minutes. 
 Then turn into a basin, add two beaten eggs, 
 one ounce of butter, and six chopped cherries. 
 Line some patty-pans with paste, fill with the 
 mixture, and bake for twenty minutes in a hot 
 oven. Probable cost, lOd. 
 CHERRY-WATER ICE. 
 
 Boil a pound of sugar with a pint and a half 
 of water, remove the scum as it rises ; when it is 
 clear, pour it into a large jug containing one 
 pound of Kentish cherries bruised, a few of the 
 kernels, blanched and pounded in a mortar, the 
 juice of two lemons, and a glass of noyeau. Let 
 these soak; strain, add a few drops of cochineal, 
 and freeze. Imbed in the ice till wanted. 
 Probable cost, 9d. for this quantity, exclusive of 
 the noyeau. Sufficient for one quart of ice. 
 CHERVIL. 
 
 Chervil is fit for drying in May, June, and 
 July. Its leaves are tender and delicious, com- 
 bining the flavour of parsley and fennel, though 
 more aromatic than either. It may be used in 
 salads, and for sauces, and also be prepared in 
 the same way as parsley. It must not be for- 
 gotten that the root is poisonous. 
 
 CHESTER BUNS. 
 
 Eub two ounces of butter into one pound of 
 fine flour, add a pinch of salt and one table- 
 spoonful of sugar. Stir into this an egg, a 
 table-spoonful of yeast, and a breakfast-cupful 
 of lukewarm milk. Knead well, and put the 
 bowl which contains the dough before the fire to 
 rise, covering it with a cloth. When it has 
 
CHE 
 
 124 
 
 CHE 
 
 sufficiently risen, divide it into six or eight 
 parts, shape into rounds, place them on a but- 
 tered tin, and let them rise five minutes more, 
 then bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, about 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost, for this quan- 
 tity, 6d. Sufficient for six or eight buns. 
 
 CHESTER PUDDING. 
 
 Whisk the yolks of two eggs, and mix, them 
 with a table-spoonful of finely-sifted sugar, half 
 a dozen sweet and half a dozen bitter almonds, 
 blanched and pounded, the finely-minced rind 
 and juice of half a lemon, and a piece of butter 
 about the size of an egg. Stir these over a 
 moderate fire for a few minutes, then pour the 
 mixture into a small buttered pie-dish lined with 
 good puff paste. Put it into the oven, and, 
 while it is baking, whisk the unused whites of 
 the eggs to a firm froth. When the pudding is 
 very nearly ready, cover it with the froth, sift 
 sugar thickly over it, and stiffen it a few minutes 
 in the oven. Time to bake, twenty minutes ; 
 five minutes to set the white of egg. Probable 
 cost, 8d. Sufficient for one person. 
 
 CHESTNUT FORCEMEAT FOR ROAST FOWL. 
 
 Roast and peel a dozen large chestnuts; boil 
 them for about twenty minutes in some strong 
 veal gravy, drain, and, when cold, put them into 
 a mortar, with the liver of the fowl, a tea- 
 spoonful of grated ham, a tea-spoonful of salt, 
 half a tea-spoonful of pepper, a tea-spoonful of 
 chopped onions, a small pinch of grated lemon- 
 rind, three grains of cayenne, and two table- 
 spoonfuls of bread-crumbs. Pound tliese ingre- 
 dients in a mortar, and moisten them with a 
 piece of butter the siae of a walnut, and the 
 yolks of two eggs. This forcemeat iB excellent 
 for a large fowl. Time to prepare, about twenty 
 minutes. Probable cost of chestnuts, 2d. or 
 3d. per pint. This quantity will serve for one 
 large fowl. 
 
 CHESTNUT PUDDING. 
 
 Take some chestnuts, and make a little in- 
 cision in the skin of each one, throw them into 
 boiling water, and let them remain unFil tender. 
 Remove the shells and skins, dry them in the 
 oven, and afterwards pound them to powder. 
 Mix half a pound of this powder with six ounces 
 of butter beaten to a cream, two table-spoonfuls 
 of sifted sugar, two or three drops of the essence 
 of vanilla, a breakfast-cupful of milk, and six 
 well-beaten eggs. Stir these well together, then 
 - pour the mixture into a well-buttered mould, 
 place a piece of buttered writing paper over the 
 top, and steam for an hour and a half, or, if 
 preferred, bake in a good oven. Serve with 
 wine sauce. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 CHESTNUT SAUCE, BROWN. 
 
 Prepare the chestnuts as in the following 
 recipe, but instead of adding cream or milk to 
 the paste, mix them with a little good brown 
 gravy, and season the sauce rather highly. Time 
 to roast the chestnuts, according to the quality. 
 Probable cost, 2d. or 3d. per pint. Sufficient 
 for one roast fowl. 
 CHESTNUT SAUCE, WHITE. 
 
 Roast a dozen chestnuts until quite tendei-, 
 then remove the brown rind and the skin under 
 
 it, and put them into a mortar with a tea-spoon- 
 ful of salt, half n tea-spoonful of pepper, half a 
 tea-spoonful of sifted sugar, and a piece of 
 butter about the size of a walnut. Pound these 
 together to a smooth paste, which must be put 
 into a saucepan, and mixed with a breakfast- 
 cupful of milk or cream; stir the liquid till it 
 boils. This sauce is excellent for boiled fowls. 
 Time to roast the chestnuts, varying with the 
 quality. Probable cost, 2d. or 3d. per pint, if 
 made with milk. Sufficient for one fowl. 
 
 CHESTNUT SOUP. 
 
 Take off the outer rind from fifty chestnuts, 
 and put them into a saucepan of cold water. 
 Place them on the fire, and when the water io 
 just upon the point of boiling, take them out 
 and remove the under skin. Stew them in suf- 
 ficient stock to cover them, until quite tender; 
 put them in a mortar, and pound them to a 
 paste, reserving a dozen to be placed whole in 
 the soup just before it is dished. Pound with 
 the paste two table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs, 
 two tea-spoonfuls of salt, half a tea-spoonful of 
 pepper, and half a nutmeg grated. Mix with it 
 very gradually the stock in which the chestnuts 
 were boiled, if its sweetness is not objected to, 
 allowing a quart of the mixture and a pint of 
 milk to every quart of stock. Boil all together 
 once more, with the chestnuts which were re- 
 served, and if the soup is too thick, add a little 
 more stock. Before serving,, place some fried 
 sippets in the tureen. The stock may be either 
 made from meat or from vegetables alone. Time, 
 two and a half hours. Sufficient for eight or 
 nine persons. Probable cost, exclusive of the 
 stock, lOd. per quart. 
 
 CHESTNUTS, COMPOTE OF. 
 
 Take thirty large chestnuts, peel off the outer 
 brown skin, and put them into a saucepan of 
 cold water. When the water is just on the 
 point of boiling, take them out, remove the 
 second skin, and be careful not to break the 
 chestnuts. Make a syrup with a breakfast-cup- 
 ful of water and a quarter of a pound of sugar, 
 adding a glass of sherry and the rind of half an 
 orange or a lemon, cut very thin. Put the chest- 
 nuts into this, and let them simmer gently for 
 twenty minutes. Strain the syrup over the 
 chestnuts, and serve hot. Sift a little sugar 
 over them. Time, about forty minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, chestnuts, 3d. or 4d. per pint. The 
 above quantity will make a moderatej-sized dish. 
 
 CHESTNUTS, PUREE OF. 
 
 Take fifty large chestnuts — those are the best 
 which have no division, and, when the skin is 
 removed, are entire. Take off the outer brown 
 skin, and boil the chestnuts until the inner skin 
 will come off easily, when that also must be re- 
 moved. Having done this, put the chestnuts 
 into a saucepan with sufficient white stock to 
 cover them, and boil them gently until they are 
 quite soft, when they must be pressed, while hot, 
 through a wire sieve. The pulp must then be 
 put into a stewpau, with a piece of butter about 
 the size of a walnut, a cupful of cream or new 
 milk, half a cupful of the stock in which they 
 were simmered, and a little salt, pepper, and 
 sugar. Stir this over the fire until quite hot, 
 when it may be placed in the middle of a dish 
 
CHE 
 
 125 
 
 CHI 
 
 of outlets. Time, two hours. Probable cost of 
 chestnuts, 3d. or 4d. per pint. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 CHESTNUTS, ROASTED, FOR DESSERT. 
 
 Cut a little piece of the outer shell off each 
 chestnut ; this is to prevent them bursting when 
 hot. Boil them for about ten minutes ; do not 
 allow them to cool, but put them into a tin in 
 the oven, or into a Dutch oven before the fire, 
 and let them remain until they are quite soft. 
 Fold them in a napkin, and serve quite hot. 
 Salt should be eaten with them. Time to bake, 
 about ten minutes. Probable cost of chestnuts, 
 3d. or 4d. per pint. Sufficient, one pint for four 
 or five persons. 
 
 CHESTNUTS, STEWED (to be served as a vegetable). 
 Eemove the outer rind from sound chestnuts, 
 then fry them in a little butter, when the inner 
 skin may easily be freed from them. Put them 
 into a saucepan with some good stock, and boil 
 them until they are tender but unbroken. The 
 chestnuts should be removed from the gravy as 
 soon as they are cooked, and served in a tureen 
 with a little white sauce poured over them. 
 Time to boil the chestnuts, one hour and a half. 
 Probable cost, 3d. or 4d. per pint. Sufficient, 
 one quart for a tureenful. 
 
 CHICHESTER PUDDING. 
 
 Rub the rind of half a lemon upon a quarter 
 of 1 pound of loaf sugar, powder this, and mix 
 it with a crumbled roll, and a quarter of a 
 pound of butter. Add the well-beaten yolks of 
 four eggs, and a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice. 
 After mixing the ingredients thoroughly, add 
 the whites of two of the eggs beaten to a firm 
 froth. Stir the mixture over the fire to a thin 
 batter, then pour it into a well-buttered pie- 
 dish, and bake in a good oven. Time to bake, 
 about half an hour. Probable cost. Is. Suf- 
 ficient for three persons. 
 
 CHICKEN, THE. 
 
 Those chickens are the best which have small 
 bones, short legs, and clean, white-looking flesh. 
 Chickens with white legs should be boiled, those 
 with dark legs roasted. The flesh of chickens 
 is generally considered more digestible than any 
 other animal food. These birds are cheapest in 
 November. Spring chickens are to be obtained 
 in April. It is better to kill them one or two 
 days before they are dressed. Chickens are 
 always better for being singed, as it gives firm- 
 ness to the flesh. 
 
 CHICKEN (a la Chasseur). 
 
 Cut a young chicken down the back and 
 flatten it out. Put it for an hour in a marin- 
 . ade of oil, lemon-juice, sliced onion, and 
 chopped parsley. Egg and bread-crumb it, and 
 broil over a clear fire. Serve garnished with 
 water-cress tossed up in oil and vinegar. Brown 
 sauce in a sauce-boat, flavoured with sherry, 
 should also accompany it. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. 
 
 CHICKEN (a la Creel). 
 
 Cut half a pound of bacon into dice, and fry 
 these lightly, then put them into a saucepan, 
 and with them twelve shallots, twelve button 
 mushrooms, two large carrots cut into pieces 
 the size and shape of a walnut, and twelve 
 chestnuts roasted and peeled. Let these be 
 
 already dressed when they are put into the 
 saucepan. Add the flesh of a chicken cut into 
 fillets, cover with good brown gravy, and stew 
 gently for a quarter of an hour, when a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, 
 a blade of mace pounded, and a glass of Madeira, 
 or any white wine, may be added. Simmer for 
 five minutes longer, take out the chicken, and 
 place it on a dish; if necessary, thicken the 
 gravy a little, then pour it over the meat. Place 
 the chestnuts, carrots, etc., round it, together 
 with a few mushrooms. Garnish the dish with 
 toasted sippets. Probable cost, chicken, 2s. 6d. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 CHICKEN (k I'Estragon). 
 
 Put some tarragon leaves in hot water, dry 
 them, and chop them small; make a forcemeat 
 by mincing the chicken's liver, and mixing with 
 it an equal quantity of bacon, a little of the 
 chopped tarragon, some nutmeg, salt, and 
 pepper; stuff the bird with this, cover it with 
 slices of bacon, tie over it some sheets of but- 
 tered paper, and roast it before a clear fire. Boil 
 some nicely-flavoured stock with the remainder 
 of the tarragon leaves, thicken it with a little 
 brown thickening, or with flour and butter, and 
 add salt, pepper, and a little lemon-juice. Send 
 this to table with the chicken. Time to roast, 
 half an hour for a small chicken. Sufficient for 
 two or three persons. Probable cost of chicken, 
 2s. 6d. 
 
 CHICKEN (4 la Marengo). 
 
 Cut a fine chicken into neat joints, season it 
 with salt and cayenne, and fry it till done in 
 about half a tumblerful of oil or clarified butter. 
 When half cooked, add a clove of garlic, two 
 shallots, and a faggot of sweet herbs. Drain 
 the meat from the fat, and mix with the latter 
 a table-spoonful of flour, and, very gradually, 
 sufficient good stock to make the sauce of the 
 consistency of thick cream. ' Stir it till it is 
 thick and smooth. Put the chicken on a hot 
 dish, strain the sauce over it, and serve. Re- 
 member that the fat must not be skimmed from 
 the sauce. If liked, mushrooms or fried eggs 
 may be taken to garnish the dish. Time, about 
 twenty-five minutes to fry the chicken. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 
 CHICKEN {k la Reine). 
 
 Cut half a pound of cold chicken into neat 
 pieces. Put one ounce and a half of butter 
 into a saucepan, and dissolve it without brown- 
 ing; stir in one ounce of flour, pour on a 
 quarter of a pint of white stock, and stir briskly 
 till it boils ; season with pepper and salt. Boil 
 for three minuteSj then put in the chicken, two 
 small onions stuck with three or four cloves, a 
 blade of mace, and a bunch of herbs, and sim- 
 mer for one hour. Make a border of nicely 
 mashed potatoes, and dish the chicken neatly 
 within it. Put the liquor in which it has been 
 boiled into a clean saucepan, beat in the yolk 
 of an egg, place over the fire, bring to boiling 
 point, add more seasoning if desired, and pour 
 over the chicken ; fill up the centre with small 
 rolls of grilled or i)aked bacon. Probable cost, 2s. 
 
 CHICKEN (a la Sainte Menehould). 
 
 Fricassee a chicken so that the gravy, when 
 cold, will be a solid jelly; put the pieces of 
 
CHI 
 
 126 
 
 CHI 
 
 meat between two dishes till cold; egg them 
 well, strew over them finely-grated bread-crumbs, 
 then dip them into egg, and then into bread- 
 crumbs again. Fry them in hot butter or lard, 
 and send a rich brown sauce to table with them. 
 Time to fry, ten or fifteen minutes. Probable 
 cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for three persons. 
 
 CHICKEN (aux Fines Herbes). 
 
 Make a, forcemeat by mincing the liver of a 
 chicken, and adding to it a tea-spoonful each of 
 chervil, tarragon, chives, and parsley, all finely 
 minced, two pinches of salt, and one of pepper ; 
 work these ingredients together with a little 
 butter, put them inside the chicken, and sew it 
 up to prevent the forcemeat escaping; cover 
 the bird with slices of bacon, place over that 
 some buttered paper, and roast before a clear 
 fire. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg 
 into a saucepan, and, when it is hot, fry in it a 
 large onion sliced, and a large carrot; mix in 
 very smoothly a table-spoonful of flour, and add 
 sufficient stock to make the sauce a nice thick- 
 ness. Add a glass of white wine and a tea- 
 spoonful each of pimpernel, chervil, tarragon, 
 and garden cress, all finely minced. Simmer the 
 gravy gently for an hour, strain it, and, if 
 necessary, put in with it a little more salt and 
 pepper. When it has simmered for a short time, 
 serve the gravy in the dish which contains the 
 chicken. Time, half an hour to roast the 
 chicken; an hour and a quarter to make the 
 gravy. Sufficient, one chicken for three per- 
 sons. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 
 CHICKEN, BAKED, IN RICE. 
 
 Cut a chicken into neat joints, and season 
 each with pepper, salt, and a very little pounded 
 mace. Place some slices of bacon at the bottom 
 of a deep dish, lay the chicken upon it, strew 
 over it a finely-minced onion, pour a breakfast- 
 cupful of veal stock over all, and pile up the 
 dish with boiled rice. Put a cover on, and bake 
 for an hour. Probable cost of chicken, 2s. 6d. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 CHICKEN, BOILED. 
 
 Wash a chicken carefully in lukewarm water, 
 and truss it firmly; put it into hot water, re- 
 move the scum as it rises, let it boil, then draw 
 it to the side and let it simmer gently until 
 ready, and remember that the more slowly it 
 boils the tenderer and whiter it will be. Before 
 putting it in the pan, place a few slices of 
 lemon on the breast, and wrap the chicken first 
 in buttered paper, then in a floured cloth. Be- 
 fore serving it a little sauce may be poured over 
 it, and the rest sent to table in a tureen. Bacon, 
 pickled pork, ham, or tongue, are generally 
 served virith boiled chicken; and parsley and 
 butter, bechamel, English white sauce, celery, 
 oyster, or mushroom sauce may accompany it. 
 Time to boil, twenty to twenty-five minutes. 
 Probable cost of chicken, 2s. 6d. Sufficient, one 
 small chicken for two persons. 
 
 CHICKEN, BROILED (with Mushroom Sauce). 
 
 Pick and wash a chicken carefully, and dry it 
 in a cloth ; cut it down the back, truss the legs 
 and wings as if for boiling, and flatten both 
 sides as much as possible. It is always better 
 to boil it gently for a few minutes before it is 
 broiled, but this is often omitted. When cold. 
 
 brush it all over with clarified butter, and re- 
 member to baste it now and then whilst cooking 
 it ; broil it over a clear, low fire. It should be 
 placed a good distance from the fire, and the 
 inside should be put to it first. The butter 
 should be renewed three or four times. Serve 
 very hot, and let stewed mushrooms be sent to 
 table on a separate dish. Time, half to three- 
 quarters of an hour. Sufficient for two persons. 
 A small, young chicken should be chosen for 
 this method of cooking. 
 
 CHICKEN BROTH. 
 
 This may be made from the inferior joints of a 
 fowl, the best pieces being cooked in some other 
 way ; or the fowl may be used after it is cooked, 
 in which case only just enough water must be 
 put over it to cover it. Roast it for twenty 
 minutes before putting it to boil ; by this means 
 the flavour will be improved. Generally speak- 
 ing, a quart of water may be allowed for a 
 medium-sized fowl. Put it into cold water, with 
 half a tea-cupful of rice. When it boils add 
 an onion cut in small pieces, and salt to taste. 
 Simmer very gently for a couple of hours, and 
 skim the liquid carefully. If there is time, pour 
 it out, let it get cold, remove every particle of 
 fat and boil it up again. About fifteen minutes 
 before serving add a tea-cupful of chopped 
 parsley. A few pieces of beef put in with the 
 chicken are a great improvement. Probable cost, 
 chicken, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for one pint of broth. 
 
 CHICKEN BROTH (another way). 
 
 The best parts of a young fowl may be used 
 for a fricassee or a grill, and the inferior parts 
 will do for this broth ; or, an old fowl may be 
 stewed, till all the bones are bare, in a quart of 
 water, and a little more liquid may be added if 
 necessary. Season the broth with salt, pepper, 
 mace, or onion, according to taste and the appe- 
 tite of the invalid. When the fowl has sim- 
 mered until it has parted with all its nutriment, 
 strain the liquid through a sieve, cool it, and 
 remove the fat before it is warmed for use. 
 This broth is seldom cared for by those who are 
 in good health. Time, one hour and a half, or 
 till tender. Probable cost, 2s. to 3s. Sufficient 
 for one quart of broth. 
 
 CHICKEN, CURRIED. 
 
 This may be made either from uncooked 
 chicken, or with the remains of a cold one. 
 When a fresh chicken is used, cut the bird into 
 neat joints and fry them lightly in hot butter or 
 lard till they are brown. Put with them a 
 Spanish onion, slicedi and a few mushrooms, 
 covering ail with some good stock. Let this 
 sauce simmer gently for twenty minutes or 
 more. Mix two dessert-spoonfuls of curry paste 
 and a spoonful of ground rice very smoothly 
 with a little water, and add this to the sauce. 
 A little apple pulp or rasped cocoa-nut may be 
 add^d if the flavour is liked. Just before serv- 
 ing, stir in a cupful of hot cream, and a squeeze 
 of lemon-juice. Serve the curry in a hot dish, 
 with rice (see Rice, BorLED, fob Cubby) piled 
 round it. One chicken (probable cost, 2s. 6d.) 
 sufficient for three persons. 
 
 CHICKEN, CURRIED (another way). 
 
 Take the remains of a cold fowl, cut it into 
 neat joints, and put aside until wanted. Fry a 
 
CHI 
 
 127 
 
 CHI 
 
 finely-minced apple and an onion, sliced, in some 
 hot butter or lard. When they are lightly 
 browned, press them through a sieve and put 
 the pulp into a saucepan with a pint of good 
 gravy. Thicken this with a dessert-spoonful of 
 curry powder, a dessert-spoonful of curry paste, 
 and a dessert-spoonful of ground rice; boil it 
 gently until it is smooth and thick. Put in the 
 pieces of chicken and let them remain until they 
 are c^iiite hot; squeeze a little lemon-juice'over, 
 and ]ust before serving add a table-spoonful of 
 thick cream. Serve the curry with rice (see Rice, 
 Boiled, poe CiTeet) piled round the dish. Time, 
 half an hour. Sufficient for three persons. 
 Probable cost, lOd., exclusive of the cold fowl. 
 
 CHICKEN CUTLETS. 
 
 These are usually made of the legs of fowls, 
 when the white flesh has been taken for some- 
 thing else. Remove the thigh-bones from the 
 legs, but leave the drumstick in its place. Put 
 the legs into a saucepan, cover them with well- 
 flavoured stock,, and simmer them very gently 
 till tender. If there is no stock, water must be 
 used, and then flavouring vegetables must be 
 thrown in, a turnip, a carrot, a buncTi of parsley, 
 a few sticks of celery, an onion stuck with 
 cloves, and a little pepper and salt. Take the 
 legs up, put them in press between two- dishes 
 until cold and firja, and trim them neatly to the 
 shape of cutlets. Brush them with oil or butter, 
 dip them in egg, and bread-crumb them twice. 
 Fry the prepared cutlets in hot butter or lard 
 till they are, nicely browned; turn them two or 
 three times that they may be equally cooked. 
 Place them in a circle on a hot dish, pour be- 
 chamel round them, and, , as a garnish, place 
 dressed vegetables in the centre of the cutlets. 
 Sufficient for a medium-sized dish. Probable 
 cost, 23. 6d. each chicken. 
 
 CHICKEN CUTLETS (French rnethod). 
 
 Take the remains of one or two cold chickens. 
 Cut them into neat joints, strew over them a 
 little salt, pepper, and pounded mace, dip them 
 into clarified butter, then into egg, and cover 
 them with bread-crumbs and finely-minced 
 parsley. Fry them lightly in hot butter or 
 dripping. Put a puree of sorrel or spinach in 
 the middle of the dish, place the cutlets round 
 it, and grate a little Parmesan cheese over them. 
 Send good gravy made of the bones and trim- 
 mings to table in a tureen. Time, five or six 
 minutes to fry the cutlets. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. Probable cost, lOd., exclusive 
 of the cold chicken. 
 CHICKEN, DEVILLED. 
 
 The best parts of chicken for a devil are the 
 wings and legs. Remove the skin, score the 
 flesh deeply in several places, and rub in a 
 fiery mixture made of salt, pepper, cayenne, 
 mustard, anchovy, and butter. This business 
 should be .done, overnight. Broil over a clear 
 fire, and serve the fowl hot on a napkin. No 
 sauce is required. Time, ten or twelve minutes 
 to broil. 
 CHICKEN (en Casserole). 
 
 Dress a young chicken and cut into pieces for 
 serving. Melt three table-spoonfuls of butter in 
 a frying pan, add an onion and a small carrot, 
 each cut in slices, add the chicken, and cook 
 
 until delicately browned. Remove to the cas- 
 serole, add one and a half cupfuls of white 
 stock and a bit of bay-leaf. Cover and let the 
 whole cook an hour, or until nearly tender, then 
 add some potatoes cut in slices and a few mush- 
 rooms stewed lightly in butter, season with 
 salt and pepper, and cook until quite tender. 
 Add three table-spoonfuls of sherry and serve 
 at once. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. (See also 
 
 POTJLBT EN CaSSEEOLE.) 
 CHICKEN (en Matelote). 
 
 Cut a fine chicken into neat joints. Put a 
 quarter of a pound of fresh butter into a stew- 
 pan, and when it is hot fry the pieces of chicken 
 in it till they are lightly browned, then lift thpm 
 out and put them aside until wanted. Fry in 
 the butter six small onions sliced, a large 
 carrot cut into quarters, a parsnip also quart- 
 ered, and a dozen small mushrooms. Pour over 
 these sufficient stobk to cover them, add some 
 savoury herbs, a blade of mace, a tea-spoonful 
 of salt, and a salt-spoonful of pepper, and sim- 
 mer all gently together until the sauce is richly 
 flavoured. Strain it and thicken it with a littli* 
 brown thickening, pour into it a glass of claret, 
 and simmer it gently until it is smooth and 
 thick. Put in the chicken, mix with the sauce 
 the liver of the chicken pounded, a boned 
 anchovy, and half a tea-spoonful of bruised 
 capers. Simmer a quarter of an hour longer, 
 and serve. Time, one hour and a half. Prob- 
 able cost of chicken, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. 
 CHICKEN, FRICASSEED. 
 
 Choose a fresh, tender chicken. Draw, singC; 
 and skin it, then cut it into neat joiirts. Soak 
 these joints in cold water for fifteen minutes, 
 drain them, and put them into a saucepan, with 
 a bunch of savoury herbs, an onion stuck with 
 two cloves, a tea-spoonful of salt, and half a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper, and enough water to cover 
 them. Bring the liquid to a boil, remove the 
 scum as it rises, and simmer very gently for half 
 an hour, or until the meat is sufficiently cooked. 
 When this point is reached, further boiling will 
 spoil the flavour. Put two ounces of butter, two 
 ounces of flour, and a dessert-spoonful of mush- 
 room powder into a stewpan. Stir the mixture 
 about until it is quite smooth, but do not let it 
 brown ; add, gradually, a pint and a half of the' 
 liquor in which the chicken was boiled, and 
 simmer gently for half an hour. Put the pieces 
 of chicken into a saucepan with a little of the 
 sauce, and let them warm gently. '. Thicken the 
 remainder of the sauce with the yolks of three 
 eggs well beaten, and a piece of butter about 
 the size of a walnut; drawing the sauce from 
 the fire before adding them. The sauce must 
 not boil after the eggs are added. Put the 
 chicken into a dish, pour the sauce over, and 
 take stewed mushrooms to. table on a separate 
 dish. Time, one hour and a half. Probable 
 cost of chicken, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for four 
 persons. 
 CHICKEN, FRIED. 
 
 Take the remains of a cold chicken, cut it into 
 neat joints, salt and pepper these rather highly, 
 and strew over them finely-chopped onion and 
 parsley. Cover them with oil, and squeeze over 
 them the juice of a lemnti^ Turn the pieces 
 
CHI 
 
 128 
 
 CHI 
 
 every now and then, and let them remain until 
 they have imbibed the flavour, then dip 
 them in flour, and fry in hot butter or 
 lard. Put a breakfast-cupful of good stock into 
 a saucepan, with a moderate-sized onion stuck 
 with two cloves, a bay-leaf, a little salt and 
 pepper, the juice of a lemon, and a Uttle parsley 
 • and tarragon chopped small. Let this sauce boil 
 well, and then strain it. Serve the pieces of 
 chicken piled up on a dish, covered with a nap- 
 kin, and garnished with fried parsley, and send 
 the above sauce, or, if preferred, tomato sauce, 
 to table in a tureen. Probable cost, 4d., exclu- 
 sive of the chicken. Sufficient for three persons. 
 CHICKEN, FRIED (another way). 
 
 Take the remains of a cold chicken, cut it 
 into neat pieces, brush a little oil over each 
 piece, and strew over it, rather thickly, salt and 
 curry powder. Melt a little butter in a frying- 
 pan, and fry some onions, cut into thin strips 
 about half an inch long and the eighth of an 
 inch wide. Fry them slowly, keeping them in 
 the pan until they are a dark brown colour, and 
 quite dry. They will require a little care, as 
 they must on no account be burnt. Fry the 
 chicken, strew the onion over it, and serve with 
 slices of lemon. Time to fry the chicken, ten 
 minutes. Allow two or three pieces of chicken 
 for each person. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive 
 of the cold chicken. 
 CHICKEN FRITTERS. 
 
 Cut the meat from a dressed chicken into thin 
 neat slices. Flour these well, or, if preferred, 
 draw them through egg, and cover them with 
 bread-crumbs which have been mixed with a little 
 flour, pepper, and salt. Melt a little butter in 
 a small frying-pan; when hot, put in the slices 
 of meat, and cook them gently, turning them 
 once or twice during the process. When brown, 
 pile them on a dish, and send brown sauce or 
 tomato sauce to table with them. If preferred, 
 the slices may be dipped in batter and fried in 
 hot fat, like kromeskies ; or, to make them more 
 tasty, they may before being floured be put into 
 a marinade made of a little chopped parsley and 
 onion, pepper, salt, and the juice of a lemon. 
 
 CHICKEN IN PEAS. 
 
 Take a fresh young chicken. Cut it into neat 
 joints, and lay them in » saucepan with a quart 
 of fine fresh peas, measured after they are 
 shelled. Add a piece of butter about the size of 
 a walnut, a bunch of parsley, a pinch of salt, a 
 small pinch of pepper, and a small onion. Pour 
 a cupful of good gravy over them, and simmer 
 gently until the liquor is exhausted. Then mix 
 a small lump of butter with a tea-spoonful of 
 flour, and put this to the peas, which should be 
 toiling when it is put in. Shake the saucepan 
 about until the peas are nicely thickened, and 
 serve them piled high in a dish, with the pieces 
 of chicken round. .The chicken and peas must 
 be gently stewed. Probable cost : chicken, 23. 6d. ; 
 peas, 8d. per peck. Sufficient for four persons. 
 CHICKEN KROMESKIES. 
 
 Mince a half-cooked chicken, four ounces of 
 ham, four ounces of tongue, and four ounces of 
 mushrooms. Melt one ounce of butter in a small 
 saucepan, stir in one ounce of flour till quite 
 smooth, cook a minute or two without browning, 
 and dilute with a gill of stock or cream. Add a 
 
 little finely-chopped parsley, the grated rind of 
 half a lemon, salt and cayenne to taste, and a 
 few drops of lemon-juice. When these are 
 thoroughly mixed stir in the chicken, etc., and 
 stir over the fire till thoroughly blended, then 
 turn on a dish or plate till cold. Have ready 
 some frying batter and thinly-sliced fat bacon. 
 Shape the mixture into rolls about the size of 
 wine corks, roll each in a slice of bacon, dip in 
 the batter, and fry in a quantity of boiling fat; 
 strain for a moment on kitchen paper, pile up on 
 a hot dish, garnish with sprigs oi parsley, and 
 serve immediately. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 
 CHICKEN, MARINADED. 
 
 Cut a cold roasted chicken into neat joints, 
 season them well in salt and cayenne, strew over 
 them chopped onion and parsley, and soak them 
 for an hour in equal parts of lemon-juice and oil. 
 Turn them frequently. Drain thein, and dip 
 each piece in a light batter, or else in white of 
 eggs beaten up, and fry them in hot butter or 
 lard until lightly browned. Garnish with fried 
 parsley. Sufficient, one chicken for two or three 
 persons. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Time to fry, 
 ten minutes. 
 CHICKEN, MINCED. 
 
 Take the remains of a cold chicken, cut off all 
 the meat, and mince it finely. Put a breakfast-' 
 cupful of white stock into a saucepan, thicken it 
 with a little flour, and let it boil for twenty 
 minutes; then add half a dozen mushrooms 
 chopped small, half a pint of cream or new milk, 
 a little salt, pepper, and pounded mace, and the 
 minced chicken. When the mushrooms are 
 cooked, serve as quickly as possible, with toasted 
 sippets round the dish. Time, forty minutes. 
 Probable cost, 8d., if made with milk, exclusive 
 of the cold chicken. Sufficient for three persons. 
 
 CHICKEN, MUSHROOM SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Put the legs and neck of the chicken, with any 
 trimmings of meat that are to be had, a small 
 piece of mace, six or eight peppercorns, a bunch 
 of savoury herbs, a small tea-spoonful of celery- 
 seed bruised, a piece of thin lemon-rind, and a 
 boned anchovy, into a saucepan with a pint of 
 water, and let the liquid simmer down to half a 
 pint. Prepare half a pint of young mushrooms, 
 and put them into a stewpan with an ounce of 
 butter rolled in flour, half a pint of the liquid 
 strained, and one gill of cream or new milk. Put 
 the sauce over a good flre, and stir it until it is 
 sufficiently thick. Pour it round boiled chickens. 
 Time, exclusive of the stock, a quarter of an 
 hour.- Probable cost, lOd., if made with milk. 
 Sufficient for a couple of good-sized chickens. 
 {See also Chicken, Satjce fob.) 
 
 CHICKEN, PANADA (Invalid Cookery). 
 
 Take a fresh young chicken, and boil it, until 
 quite tender, in sufficient water to cover it. 
 Take off all the meat from the bones, and pound 
 it in a mortar until quite smooth, with a little 
 of the liquid it was boiled in, and add some salt, 
 nutmeg, and a very little grated lemon-rind. 
 Boil this gently for a few minutes with sufficient 
 liquid to make it of the consistency of thick 
 custard. Time, twenty-five minutes to boil the 
 chicken. Probable cost, chicken, 2s. 6d. A 
 very little of this contains a great deal of 
 nourishment. 
 
CHI 
 
 129 
 
 CHI 
 
 CHICKEN PATTIES. 
 
 Pick the meat from a cold chicken, and mince 
 it very finely. To every six ounces of chicken 
 allow three ounces of lean ham, also minced, a 
 piece of butter about the size of an egg, rolled in 
 flour, a small tea-cupful of cream or new milk, 
 and the same of white stock, two pinches of 
 salt, one of pepper, a quarter of a small nutmeg 
 grated, the thin rind of a quarter of a lemon 
 finely grated, and a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice. 
 A few minced mushrooms are a great improve- 
 ment. Put these into a saucepan, and stir them 
 gently for ten minutes, taking care that they do 
 not burn. Line some patty-pans with good 
 crust. Put a piece of paper crumpled up or a 
 crust of bread into each to support the top while 
 baking, and place a cover of crust over it. When 
 sufficiently baked, take off the top crustj^remove 
 the bread or the paper, three-parts fill the patty 
 with the mixture, replace the cover, being care- 
 ful not to break it, and fasten it with white of 
 egg. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. Prob- 
 able cost, 2d. each. Allow one for each person. 
 
 CHICKEN PIE. 
 
 Take two large chickens, and cut them into 
 neat joints. Put the trimmings, neck, and 
 bones of the legs into a stewpau, with some 
 pepper and salt, a blade of mace, an onion, a, 
 bunch of savoury herbs, and a little water, or 
 stock. Let these simmer gently for one hour 
 and a half. They are to make gravy. Line the 
 edges of a pie-dish with a good crust.. Put a 
 layer of chicken at the bottom, then a layer of 
 ham cut in slices, and over that some sausage- 
 meat or forcemeat, and some hard-boiled eggs 
 cut in slices. Repeat until the dish is full. 
 Pour over all a cupful of water or white stock, 
 and place a cover on the top. Brush over it the 
 yolk of an egg. Bake in a good oven. When 
 the pie has been in the oven about half an hour, 
 place a piece of paper over the top to prevent 
 the crust from being frizzled up before the meat 
 is sufficiently cooked. When it is ready, raise 
 the cover and pour in the gravy made from the 
 bones. Put a trussing-needle into the pie to 
 ascertain whether it is sufficiently cooked. If it 
 goes through easily, take the pie out. A pie 
 made with two chickens, sufficient for six per- 
 sons. Probable cost, 6s. 
 
 CHICKEN, PILAFF OF. 
 
 Cut a chicken into neat joints. Lay them in 
 a stewpan with enough water or stock to half 
 cover the pieces. Put on the lid and let the 
 contents of the pan come to the boil. Skim 
 the stock, then add two ounces of rice and a 
 little salt to it. Let all simmer slowly about 
 three-quarters of an hour or till the chicken is 
 tender. Then pile the joints of chicken and the 
 rice on a hot dish. Season the broth nicely with 
 salt and pepper, pour a little of it round the 
 dish, then over all pour half a pint of hot tomato 
 sauce. 
 
 CHICKEN PILAU. 
 
 Take a fat young fowl, and put it into a sauce- 
 pan with two quarts of water, a large onion, two 
 cloves of garlic, a bay-leaf, three cloves, a small 
 piece of cinnamon, a blade of mace, the seeds of 
 twelve cardamoms, and a tea^spoonful of salt, 
 and boil till the fowl is tender. Remove the 
 
 fowl, and put into the liquor a quarter of a 
 pound of best Patna rice; stir occasionally, 
 and watch it closely. The moment t£e rice is 
 soft drain it on a wire sieve, saving the liquor 
 for soup ; steam it before the fire for about half 
 an hour. Before serving, remove the spices with 
 the exception of the cloves and cardamoms. Put 
 the fowl on a dish, cover it over with the rice, 
 and garnish it with hard-boiled eggs and onions 
 fried brown and crisp. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. 
 
 CHICKEN, POTTED. 
 
 Take the meat from a cold roast chicken, re- 
 move the gristle and skin, and weigh jt after it 
 is picked. To every pound of chicken-meat 
 allow a quarter of a pound of ham, a quarter of 
 a pound of butter, a tea-spoonful of salt, four 
 grains of cayenne, one tea-spoonful of pounded 
 mace, and a quarter of a small nutmeg. Pound 
 these thorpughly in a, mortar. Press the paste 
 into small jars, and cover it with clarified butter 
 about a quarter of an inch in thickness. Keep 
 it in a dry place. Time, about half an hour to 
 prepare. Probable cost, lOd., exclusive of the 
 cold chicken. A little of it should be spread on 
 bread and butter for each person. 
 
 CHICKEN RISSOLES. 
 
 Pick the flesh from a cold chicken, mince it 
 finely, and to every quarter of a pound of meat 
 put one ounce of lean ham, one ounce of finely- 
 grated bread-crumbs, a small onion, boiled and 
 chopped, a piece of clarified butter about the 
 size of a walnut, half a salt-spoonful of salt, 
 half that quantity of pepper, and two or three 
 grates of a nutmeg. Mix these thoroughly, then 
 moisten the mixture with a little stiff white 
 sauce. If this is not at hand, it may easily be 
 made by boiling the trimmings of the chicken 
 with suitable seasonings and a little gelatin^ 
 Let the mixture get cold, and form it into balls. 
 Make some good pastry, and roll it out thinly. 
 Cover the balls with it, and fry them in hot fat 
 till they are a light brown, drain them thor- 
 oughly from the fat, and serve them piled high 
 on a napkin, with fried parsley garnishing the 
 dish. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, 
 6d., exclusive of the cold chicken. Allow two 
 for each person. 
 
 CHICKEN, ROAST. 
 
 Young spring chickens should be very care- 
 fully prepared for roasting, as the flesh is so 
 tender that it will easily tear. They require no 
 stuffing. A little butter placed inside is an im- 
 provement. They should be firmly trussed like 
 a fowl, slightly floured, put down to a clear 
 fire, and basted constantly until ready. Bread 
 sauce, mushroom, egg, or chestnut sauce may 
 all be served with roast chicken. If the fire is 
 too fierce a piece of oiled paper may be fastened 
 over the breast of the bird whilst it is down. 
 Time to roast, hajf an hour. Probable cost, 
 2s. 6d. each. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 CHICKEN, ROAST (another way). 
 
 If it is wished to stuff the chicken, a force- 
 meat may be made by mincing the liver and an 
 equal quantity of bacon together, then adding 
 a small pinch of finely-minced lemon-rind, a 
 table-spoonful of grated bread-crumbs, a des- 
 sert-spoonful of chopped parsley, three or four 
 chives, cut small, and a little pepper. The 
 
CHI 
 
 130 
 
 CHI 
 
 chicken should then be covered with slices of 
 bacon, and a piece of buttered paper fastened 
 over them. If preferred, a couple of boned 
 anchovies may be substituted for the lemon-rind 
 in the stuffing. Time to roast, half an hour. 
 Probable cost, 28. 6d. each. Sufficient for three 
 persons. 
 
 CHICKEN SALAD, PLAIN. 
 
 Take a well-boiled fowl, and cut it into neat, 
 small pieces. Make a pickle of equal parts of 
 oil and vinegar, with a little finely-minced 
 onion, salt, and pepper : let the pieces lie in this 
 two or three hours, turning them occasionally 
 that the chicken may become impregnated with 
 the flavour of the pickle. Prepare some lettuce ; 
 if it is young, the little heads may be cut into 
 halves ; if large, the hearts may be cut length- 
 ways and divided ; but especial care should be 
 taken in making salads that the lettuce is per- 
 iectly dry. It is a good plan to wash it some 
 iours before it is needed, and hang it in a wire 
 basket in an airy situation. If after this it is 
 not quite free from moisture, two or three leaves 
 at a time should be put into a clean dry towel, 
 and shaken gently about. A salad is never 
 properly made unless attention is paid, to this 
 point, as the dressing, instead of mixing with 
 the salad, will be all at the bottom of the bowl. 
 Make a sauce as in the following recipe. 
 Arrange the chicken and salad in the dish as 
 prettily as you can, and pour the sauce over 
 them; garnish with thin slices of beetroot cut 
 into shapes with an ordinary pastry cutter, 
 lard-boiled eggs cut into slices or quarters, and 
 a little green parsley between the pieces of egg. 
 A chicken salad neatly and tastefully arranged 
 Tias a good appearance, and is generally a wel- 
 come dish. Time to boil the chicken, half an 
 hour. Probable cost : chicken, 2s. 6d. ; salad 
 and dressing. Is. Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 CHICKEN SALAD, RICH. 
 
 Boil a large chicken until quite tender, and, 
 when it is cold, pick off the meat in small pieces. 
 Take as much celery as there is chicken, and 
 cut it into pieces about an inch long, put it in 
 a little water to make it crisp, then drain and dry 
 it thoroughly. Put the yolk of one egg into a 
 large basin, and beat well with a silver fork 
 until it begins to feel thick. Add first a heaped 
 tea-spoonful of mustard, and afterwards six tea- 
 spoonfuls of oil, putting in the first two tear 
 spoonfuls by three drops at a time, and beating 
 the sauce thoroughly between each addition. 
 To every sixth tea-spoonful of oil put one tea- 
 spoonful of lemoil-juic'e, and repeat until half a 
 pint of oil and the juice of a large lemon have 
 been used. Flavour with three pinches of salt 
 and two of red pepper, and, last of all, put in a 
 table-spoonful of cream. The sauce should be 
 thick, and highly flavoured. Mix the chicken 
 with the celery, pour half the dressing into the 
 salad and the rest on the top, and garnish ac- 
 cording to taste. Time, half an hour to boil the 
 chicken. Probable cost : chicken, 2s. 6d. ; 
 celery, 3d. per head. Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 CHICKEN, SAUCE FOR BOILED. 
 
 Take the livers of the fowls you are using, 
 and boil them with a bunch of thyme and 
 parsley ; drain' them, and pound them in a mor- 
 tar with two boned anchovies, a little pepper and 
 
 salt, and the finely-grated rind of half a lemon ; 
 add the white of one egg, and the hard-boiled 
 yolks of two. Squeeze the juice of half a lemon 
 over the mixture, and put it into a saucepan 
 with a. pint of good melted butter. Stir the 
 sauce constantly until it is_ thick enourfi._ Time, 
 altogether, about half an hour. Sufficient for 
 a couple of boiled chickens. Probable cost, 6d. 
 {See alio Chicken, Mushboom Sauce foe.) 
 
 CHICKEN, SAUCE FOR ROAST. 
 
 Roast chickens are generally served with 
 brown sauce, and bread sauce in a separate 
 tureen. If no gravy is at hand of which brown 
 sauce can be made, a few slices of liver may be 
 fried with a little bacon until nicely browned, 
 boiling water poured upon them, and strained. 
 Time, ten minutes. Probable cost, 4d. 
 
 CHICKEN, SCALLOPED. 
 
 Take the remains of a cold chicken, free it 
 from skin and gristle, and mince it finely. Place 
 the mince in a saucepan, and moisten it with 
 some white sauce, or, failing that, some white 
 stock mixed with a little cream, and thickened 
 with flour. Season with salt, cayenne, and 
 pounded mace. Let the mixture boil, stirring 
 it all the time. Butter the scallop shells, strew 
 some bread-crumbs over them, fill them with the 
 mixture, and strew more bread-crumbs over the 
 top. Sprinkle some clarified butter over them, 
 bake in a hot oven, and serve with pickles 
 or cucumber. Time, half an hour. Probable 
 cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold chicken. Allow 
 two for each person. 
 
 CHICKEN SOUP, DELICATE. 
 
 Pluck and wash thoroughly three young 
 chickens, and put them in a stewpan with five 
 pints of good, white, nicely-flavoured stock, 
 thoroughly freed from fat and cleared from 
 sediment. A sliced turnip and carrot may be 
 put with them, and removed before the soup is 
 thickened. Let them simmer gently for nearly 
 an hour. Remove all the white flesh, and re- 
 turn the rest of the birds to the soup, and 
 simmer once more for a couple of hours. Pour 
 a little of the boiling liquid over a quarter of 
 a pound of the crumb of bread, and when it is 
 well soaked, drain it, put it in a mortar with 
 the flesh which has been taken from the bones, 
 and pound it to a smooth paste, adding, by de- 
 grees, the liquid. Flavour with salt, cayenne, 
 and a very little pounded mace, press the mix- 
 ture through a sieve, and boil once more, adding 
 one pint of boiling cream. If the soup should 
 not be sufficiently thick, a table-spoonful of 
 arrowroot which has been mixed may be added 
 very smoothly with a little cold milk. Probable 
 cost, chickens, 2s. 6d. each. Sufficient for six 
 or eight persons. 
 
 CHICKEN TAPIOCA SOUP. 
 
 The stock for this soup may be made by boil- 
 ing the bones of a roast fowl with the left-over 
 pieces of meat, and then reducing the liquor to 
 the required strength. Put two table-spoon- 
 fuls of tapioca to soak overnight. Add it to 
 thfe chicken stock, and simmer until the tapioca 
 is quite soft, which will take two to three hours. 
 About half an hour before it is done put one 
 , pint of milk, one stalk of celery, one table- 
 spoonful of .chopped onion, and a blade of 
 
CHI 
 
 131 
 
 CHI 
 
 mace, into a saucepan to cook, and as soon as 
 the tapioca becomes soft pour it in. Remove it 
 from the fire, and strain through a wire sieve, 
 rubbing all through with a. wooden spoon. Then 
 add salt, pepper, and half a tea-spoonful of 
 butter; set it back on the fire, and heat just to 
 boiling point, when it is ready to serve. Prpb- 
 able cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 CHICKEN, WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED. 
 
 Dissolve an ounce of butter in a small sauce- 
 pan, and mix smoothly with it three-quarters 
 of an ounce of flour. Stir in half a pint of 
 white stock, or water, and add a small carrot, 
 three button mushrooms, and an ounce of lean 
 ham. Stir the sauce till it boils, draw it back 
 and let it simmer for twenty minutes. Skim 
 and strain it, then boil it again, and put a 
 quarter of a pint of cream with it. Sufficient 
 for two small chickens. 
 
 CHICKEN AND HAM PIE. 
 
 Take a cooked chicken or the remains of one, 
 and four ounces of ham. Cut into rather small 
 pieces, and put it into a saucepan with a little 
 white stock or water; add a bunch of parsley, 
 and pepper and salt. Boil until the chicken is 
 tender, take out the parsley, and turn out into a 
 pie-dish. Take two hard-boiled eggs, cut each 
 into four pieces, and lay on top of the chicken ; 
 cover with a good puff-paste, and bake , in a 
 quick oven. Probable cost, 4s. 
 
 CHICKEN AND HAM SANDWICHES. 
 
 Put a breakfast-cupful of good gravy into a 
 saucepan, with three dessert-spoonfuls of curry 
 paste mixed smoothly in it. Add half a pound 
 of the flesh of a cold chicken, and two ounces 
 of lean hajn finely minced. Let the ingredients 
 boil for ten minutes, then turn them out. Cut 
 some slices of stale bread about the eighth of 
 an inch in thickness, and stamp them out in 
 shapes. Fry them in a little butter, spread 
 some of the mixture between two of them, and 
 put over it a little slice of cheese, and a piece of 
 butter. Press it well down, bake the sand- 
 wiches in a quick oven, on a baking sheet, and 
 serve them as hot as possible, piled high on a 
 napkin. Time, five minutes to bake. Allow 
 two or three for each person. Probable cost, 
 8d., exclusive of the cold meat. 
 
 CHICKEN AND HAM, TO POT. 
 
 Pound separately the white meat of a cold 
 ' fowl, and an equal weight of ham, beef, or 
 tongue. Season the fowl with salt, pepper, and 
 pounded mace, and the other meat with pepper 
 only. Put alternate layers of each into a jar, 
 place a slice of butter on the top, and bake for 
 an hour and a half. Let them get cold, then 
 pour some clarified butter on the top rather 
 thickly. A little may be eaten with bread and 
 butter for breakfast or luncheon. Probable 
 cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold meat. 
 
 CHICKEN AND MACARONI. 
 
 Boil a chicken in the usual manner. Take 
 half a pound of pipe macaroni, and boil it in 
 water with a lump of butter in it. When it has 
 boiled a quarter of an hour, drain it, and sub- 
 stitute milk for the water, with a large onion 
 stuck with cloves, and a little salt and pepper. 
 Boil until the macaroni is tender but unbroken. 
 
 then grate over it a quarter of a pound of Par- 
 mesan cheese. Lay the chicken, which ought 
 to be just cooked, on a dish, put the macaroni 
 and cheese over it, and serve as hot as possible. 
 Time to boil the macaroni the second time, half 
 an hour; to boil the chicken, half an hour. 
 Sufficient for four persons. Probable cost, 
 chicken, 2s. 6d. 
 
 CHICKEN AND MACARONI PUDDING. 
 
 Boil three ounces of pipe macaroni in some 
 nicely-flavoured stock till it is tender but un- 
 broken. Prepare the meat as in the next recipe, 
 allowing six ounces of ham and six ounces of 
 chicken to three ounces of macaroni. Mix them 
 well together, and add a well-beaten egg, and 
 a piece of butter about the size of an egg. 
 Pour the mixture into a buttered mould, tie it 
 in a cloth, boil or steam it, and when ready 
 serve it as hot as possible. Time to boil, one 
 hour. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold 
 meat. Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 CHICKEN AND RICE PUDDING. 
 
 Cut the meat from the remains of a cold fowl, 
 and take half its weight in ham. Free it from 
 skin and gristle, and pound it in a mortar, with 
 a little salt, white pepper, and pounded mace. 
 To one pound of fowl, and half a pound of ham, 
 allow a cupful of rice. Boil this in some nicely- 
 flavoured stock till it is sufficiently cooked, 
 then drain it, and add to it a cupful of new- 
 milk and the pounded meat. Stir these well 
 together. Put the mixture into a buttered 
 mould, dredge a little flour over the top, tie it 
 in a floured cloth, and boil it for an hour, taking 
 care that the water in the saucepan does not 
 reach as high as the top of the mould. Serve 
 with mushroom or oyster sauce. Probable cost, 
 6d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for 
 six persons. 
 
 CHICKEN AND SWEETBREAD PIE. 
 
 Line a deep pie-dish with a good crust, and 
 spread a layer of forcemeat on it. Put over this 
 alternate layers of chicken cut into neat joints, 
 and sweetbread cut into small pieces, both sea- 
 soned with salt and cayenne ; sprinkle over each 
 layer a few mushrooms or truffles chopped small. 
 When the dish is nearly full, put some slices of 
 hard-boiled egg over the top, pour a little gravj 
 over the meat, cover the dish with the same 
 crust that it was lined with, brush it over with 
 beaten egg, and bake it in a good oven. Just 
 before serving, make a hole in the top and pour 
 in some good gravy. Time to bake, one hour 
 and a half. Probable cost, chickens, 2s. 6d. 
 each. A pie made with two chickens sufficient «- 
 for six persons. 
 
 CHICKEN AND TOMATOES, CHARTREUSE OF. 
 
 Line a plain Charlotte mould thinly with 
 pale aspic. Cut ripe tomatoes in thin slices, 
 and use them, together with shreds of hard- 
 boiled white of eggs, fancy shapes of beetroot 
 and cucumber, and chervil or other green salad, 
 for decorating the bottom and sides of the 
 mould, in any pattern, according to fancy. Set 
 this garnish with a second layer of aspic, and 
 when firm fill up with a creamy puree of 
 chicken. This is to be made Of the white meat 
 of a cooked chicken, chopped and pounded, thett 
 mixed with a little butter, seasoned delicatelyi 
 
CHI 
 
 132 
 
 CHO 
 
 and moistened with thick bechamel and cream; 
 about a gill and a half to half a pint of chicken 
 mixture. The whole should be blended over 
 ice before being put in the mould, and the 
 cream should be beaten until stiff. The top 
 should be made level with a palette knife and 
 coated with more aspic, and the mould set in a 
 refrigerator until the contents will turn out 
 firmly. The garnish may consist of small green 
 salad, aspic, beetroot, cucumber, and the yolks 
 of the eggs whose whites were used in the in- 
 terior garnish. Probable cost, 43. 
 
 CHICKEN AND TONGUE WITH CAULIFLOWERS 
 
 (a handsome supper dish). 
 
 Boil a tongue and two chickens according to 
 the directions given for both. Brush the tongue 
 over with glaze, place it in the middle of a large 
 dish, and put a chicken on each side of it. 
 Cover the birds with white sauce, and garnish 
 the dish with small cauliflowers or Brussels 
 sprouts. Serve hot. If preferred, celery may 
 be boiled, and substituted for the cauliflowers, 
 or the chickens and tongue may be served cold, 
 and the dish garnished with cut lemon and 
 parsley. Time, half an hour for the chickens, 
 two hours for the tongue, twenty minutes for 
 the cauliflowers. Sufficient, two chickens and a 
 tongue for six persons. Probable cost : 
 chickens, about 5a. per pair; tongue, 48.; cauli- 
 flowers, 2d. each. 
 
 CHICORY. 
 
 (See Endive.) 
 
 CHILLI VINEGAR. 
 
 Cut 100 small, fresh, red chillies into halves, 
 and infuse them for a fortnight in a quart of 
 best pickling vinegar. Strain the liquid and 
 put it into small bottles. The flavour of the 
 chillies will not be entirely extracted, so the 
 bottle may be replenished with rather less vine- 
 gar than before. It is a convenience to have 
 this vinegar at hand to flavour sauces, and to 
 serve with fish, which many persons cannot eat 
 without the addition of an acid and cayenne. 
 Half an ounce of cayenne will answer the same 
 purpose as the chillies, if it can be procured 
 genuine. The vinegar will keep a long time if 
 closely corked. Sufficient for one quart of vine- 
 gar. Probable cost of chillies, 28. per hundred. 
 
 CHOCOLATE. 
 
 Chocolate, when obtained genuine, is made 
 from the berry of the cacao tree, mixed- with a 
 little cinnamon, vanilla, and sugar. It is a 
 most agreeable and nutritious beverage. It is 
 much used in Spain. That which is sold in 
 England is too often a mixture of flour and 
 treacle, with a very small quantity of the real 
 article mixed in it, but there is no difficulty in 
 obtaining the genuine article if the proper price 
 be paid Jor it. Scrape as much chocolate aa 
 may be required into equal quantities of hot 
 milk and water. Stir it until it is dissolved, 
 then put it in the saucepan, and make it quite 
 hot, stirring it all the time. It must not boil 
 up, or it will be oily. Sweeten and serve. The 
 quantity to be used depends on the strength 
 wanted. Generally speaking, one ounce of 
 chocolate may be used for one pint of milk and 
 water. Where chocolate is regularly used, it is 
 much better to have a proper chocolate mill, so 
 
 that it may be served hot and frothy. Time, 
 ten minutes. Probable cost, from Is. to Is. 6d. 
 per pound. Cheap chocolate should be avoided. 
 Allow one ounce for each person. 
 
 CHOCOLATE BISCUITS. 
 
 Mix a quarter of a pound of finely-grated 
 chocolate with a quarter of a pound of finely- 
 sifted sugar, and moisten the mixture with suf- 
 ficient beaten white of egg to make a softish 
 paste. Mould this into small biscuits with a 
 tea-spoon, and place these on a sheet of paper, 
 leaving a little distance between the biscuits. 
 Bake them in a moderate oven, and, when suf- 
 ficiently cooked, take them out, and turn the 
 sheets over so that the biscuits may rest on the 
 table, and brush the paper immediately over the 
 biscuits with a little water to loosen them. The 
 addition of six ounces of sweet almonds, 
 blanched and pounded, will convert these into 
 chocolate macaroons. Time to bake, twenty 
 minutes. Probable cost. Is. 6d. per pound. 
 Sufficient for a moderate-sized dish. 
 
 CHOCOLATE BLANCMANGE. 
 
 Soak one ounce of gelatine in new milk for 
 six hours. Grate a quarter of a pound of choco- 
 late, and mix it to a smooth paste with a little 
 cold milk. Boil one quart of milk, add the 
 chocolate, and stir till it is dissolved ; then add 
 the dissolved gelatine, three ounces of sugar, 
 and the yolks of three eggs. Stir over the fire 
 until the eggs are cooked, but take care that 
 they do not curdle. Flavour with vanilla, and 
 pour into a damp mould. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 
 CHOCOLATE CAKES. 
 
 Cream together four ounces of butter and six; 
 ounces of sugar ; sift six ounces of flour and half 
 a tea-spoonful of baking powder together; add 
 flve beaten eggs to the butter and sugar, and 
 stir in six ounces of vanilla-flavoured chocolate 
 with the flour and baking-powder. Have ready 
 some patty-pans, half fill with the mixture, and 
 bake from ten to fifteen minutes. Probable 
 cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 CHOCOLATE CANNELONS. 
 
 Mix two ounces of grated chocolate with four 
 ounces of finely-sifted sugar and a dessert-spoon- 
 ful of flour, and add the beaten white of an egg 
 to make a paste. Take pieces about the size of 
 a walnut, and roll them out very thinly, place 
 them on a buttered tin, and bake them in a 
 moderate oven for ten or fifteen minutes. While 
 they are warm, turn them over a ruler to shape 
 them, and slip them on a sieve to dry. Prob- 
 able cost, 5d. for this quantity. Sufficient for a 
 small dessert-dish. 
 
 CHOCOLATE CREAM. 
 
 Grate one ounce of the best chocolate and two 
 ounces of sugar into a pint of thick cream; 
 boil it, stirring it all the time, until quite 
 smooth, then add, when cool, the whites of four 
 eggs beaten to a solid froth. Half fill the 
 glasses, and whip the remainder into a froth to 
 put at the top. Time, twenty minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, 2s., allowing Is. 6d. per pint for the 
 cream. Sufficient for a pint anda half of cream. 
 
 CHOCOLATE CREAMS. 
 
 Take a piece of fondant (sec Fondant), and 
 work into it whatever flavouring essence is pre- 
 
CHO 
 
 133 
 
 CHO 
 
 / 
 
 f erred; work it on a baking-board well dusted 
 with icing sugar, and roll it into tiny balls or 
 fancy shapes. Scrape two or three cakes of 
 chocolate into a basin, drop in a tiny piece of 
 butter; add about a dessert-spoonful of fond- 
 ant, place in a saucepan of boiling water until 
 -dissolved. Drop the balls into the dissolved 
 chocolate, which must not be more than luke- 
 warm, or the balls will melt. Coat thoroughly, 
 take them out with a piece of bent wire, place 
 on buttered paper to dry, and put away in a 
 cool dry place. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 CHOCOLATE CUSTARD. 
 
 Pour halt a cupful of boiling water over one 
 ounce of the best chocolate finely grated, let it 
 stand by the fire till it is dissolved; stir it 
 gradually into a pint of milk or cream, and add 
 two table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar and the yolks 
 of four eggs well beaten. Put the custard into 
 a saucepan, and beat it to a froth until it 
 thickens. It may be put into cups and baked 
 in a good oven. It is more generally served as 
 it is. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 8d., 
 if made with milk. Sufficient for a pint and a 
 ialf. 
 
 CHOCOLATE DROPS. 
 
 Dissolve foui? ounces of the best French choco- 
 late in a little boiling water, and add to it half 
 a pound of sifted sugar ; stir the mixture on the 
 fee till it is smooth and quite hot. Place it in 
 drops about the size of a sixpence on sheets of 
 writing paper, and leave them until cold. If it 
 is wished, the drops may be shaken (while still 
 soft) in a paper with some pin-head comfits. 
 They should be kept in layers between sheets of 
 paper. Time, about half an hour. Probable 
 <!ost, 7d. for this quantity. 
 
 CHOCOLATE iCLAIRS. 
 
 Beat the yolks of four eggs and three-quarters 
 of a pound of castor sugar well together; beat 
 the whites to a stiff froth. Mix in a salt-spoon- 
 ful of baking powder, and add gradually, and 
 alternately with four ounces of flour, to the 
 creamed sugar. Have ready some shallow but- 
 tered tins, about three inches long and one inch 
 wide, and place a spoonful of the mixture in 
 each. When such tins are not obtainable, little 
 •cases made of stiff writing paper, stitched at 
 the corners, will serve the purpose. Bake in a 
 steady oven for half an hour. When nearly 
 cold cover them with the following mixture. 
 Break three squares of chocolate into a break- 
 fast cup, and place it in boiling water until 
 dissolved. Beat the whites of two eggs to a 
 stiff froth, add eight table-spoonfuls of castor 
 ■sugar, and beat all together. Probable cost. 
 Is. 6d. for twelve eclairs. 
 
 CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM. 
 
 Dissolve half a pound of the best French 
 chocolate in a breakfast-cupful of boiling water, 
 add a pint and a half of cream and half a pound 
 ■oi sugar boiled to a syrup; strain through silk 
 and put into the ice pail. Freeze in the usual 
 "way. When frozen, add three gills of double 
 cream, work till smooth, and close the pot till 
 the ice is wanted. 
 
 CHOCOLATE MILL. 
 
 The chocolate mill is used to give the fine 
 frothy appearance to the chocolate which is 
 
 generally so much liked, and which cannot be 
 so effectually produced without it, though brisk 
 stirring over the fire will go a great way to 
 secure it. In using this article, mix the choco- 
 late smoothly with the water or milk, and pour 
 
 CHOCOLATE MILL. 
 
 it into the pot; put on the lid with the handle ( 
 of the mill coming through it, and then warm 
 the chocolate gently, rubbing the handle briskly 
 between the palms of the hands all the time the 
 chocolate is on the fire. The preparation must 
 not be allowed to boil, or it will be oily. When 
 the lid is taken off, the chocolate will be found 
 to be in a fine state of froth. Probable cost, 5a. 
 
 CHOCOLATE PUDDING. 
 
 Put an ounce of best chocolate grated, and 
 as much powdered cinnamon as would stand on 
 a threepenny piece into two table-spoonfuls of 
 boiling water. Let the mixture stand by the 
 side of the fire until dissolved, then mix with it 
 a pint of boiling milk, and add four large lumps 
 of sugar, and when it is cold, four eggs well 
 beaten. Pour the mixture into a buttered pie- 
 dish, and either steam or bake it for half an 
 hour. It is more suitable to eat hot when 
 steamed, and cold when baked. A little sifted 
 sugar may be eaten with the pudding cold, and 
 arrowroot sauce served with it hot. Probable 
 cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 CHOCOLATE TARTS. 
 
 Grate two ounces of the best French chocolate, 
 and mix with it a pinch of powdered cinnamon, 
 a pinch of salt, a tea-spoonful of finely-chopped 
 lemon-rind, a dessert-spoonful of sifted sugar, 
 and a heaped tea-spoonful of ground rice. Mix 
 a pint of cream or new milk with four well- 
 beaten eggs, and add the custard gradually and 
 smoothly to the chocolate powder. Stir the 
 mixture over the fire for a few minutes, but be 
 careful that the cream does not curdle. Line 
 the inside of a tart-dish with good puff paste. 
 Pour the cream, when cool, into it, and bake 
 the tart in a moderate oven. Time to bake, 
 about half an hour. Probable cost, lOd. made 
 with milk, 2s. made with cream. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 
 CHOPS, BROILED. 
 
 Mutton is the meat for chops, though lamb 
 and pork also furnish excellent ones. A variety 
 of dishes may be made from them, and they may 
 be served with all sorts of sauces and vege- 
 tables. They are often cut from the best end 
 of the neck and the fillet of the leg, but are 
 best when taken from the middle of the loin. 
 They should be cut not less than half an inch 
 
CHO 
 
 134 
 
 CHR 
 
 thick, and not over fat ; if taken from the neck, 
 the bones should be shortened. To broil chops 
 trim them neatly, remove nearly all the fat, 
 ■which may be rendered and made into good 
 dripping, and pepper them slightly. Have » 
 clear fire made of cinders. Make the gridiron 
 hot, and rub it well with mutton suet. Put the 
 chops upon it and place it slanting to prevent 
 the fat dropping on the fire, and causing a, 
 smoke. If a blaze should arise, remove the 
 gridiron for a moment, and strew a handful of 
 salt over the fire. Turn the chops often till 
 they are done, which will be in about eight 
 minutes. Place them on ' a hot dish with a 
 piece of butter about the size of a nut under 
 each, and send mushroom ketchup to table with 
 them. French cooks pepper and salt them, and 
 brush some clarified butter over them before 
 broiling, and this tends to keep in the juices. 
 If it can be done, they are better sent to table 
 one at a time, as they are broiled. Probable 
 cost. Is. to Is. 2d. per pound. 
 
 CHOPS, BROILED (k la Maintenon). 
 
 Cut and trim the chops as before. Beat the 
 yolk of an egg, and mix with it a tea-spoonful 
 of finely-grated bread-crumbs, a tea-spoonful 
 of parsley, half a tea-spoonful of thyme, and a 
 little salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Cover 
 the chops with this, then wrap each one in a 
 piece of well-buttered writing paper, and broil 
 them as in the last recipe, turning them often. 
 Serve with some good brown gravy. Time, 
 about ten minutes. Allow one chop for each 
 person. Probable cost. Is. Id. per pound. 
 
 CHOPS, FRIED. 
 
 Prepare the chops as before. Brush each chop 
 with beaten egg, and cover them with finely- 
 grated bread-crumbs. Put a good slice of but- 
 ter into the frying-pan, and when it is melted, 
 place them in it. Turn them two or three times, 
 and when they are nearly ready, sprinkle salt 
 and pepper over them. Fry them over a clear 
 fire not less than ten or more than fifteen 
 minutes. When they are taken up lay them for 
 a moment or two on blotting paper, to absorb 
 the fat. Make some good melted butter, and 
 stir into it, when boiling, two table-spoonfuls 
 of finely-minced pickled gherkins. Probable 
 cost. Is. to Is. 2d. per pound. One chop will be 
 suificient for each person. 
 
 CHOP, INVALID'S. 
 
 Take a moderately-sized chop, trim away all 
 fat and skin, season it with pepper and salt. 
 Place it between two buttered plates, and bake 
 in a hot oven for a quarter of an hour. Prob- 
 able cost, 7d. 
 
 CHOPS, STEWED WITH ONION. 
 
 Take half a dozen nice loin chops, trim them 
 neatly, remove nearly all the fat, and broil them 
 for two minutes on each side, then place them 
 in clean blotting paper. Cut two large Spanish 
 onions into slices, and put them into a stew- 
 pan with half a tea-spoonful of salt, and four 
 ounces of fresh butter. Place the chops upon 
 them, and cover the saucepan closely, and stew 
 all gently till the onions are reduced to pulp. 
 Before dishing, pour a tea-Spoonful of chilli 
 ■vinegar upon the dish. ' Steak may be cooked 
 in this way as well as chops. Time to broil 
 
 the chops, four minutes ; to stew them with the 
 onions, until the latter are reduced to pulp, 
 about half an hour. Probable cost. Is. Id. por 
 pound. Allow one chop for each person. 
 
 CHOUX. 
 
 Put four ouncas of butter into half a pint of 
 boiling water, with two table-spoonfuls of finely- 
 sifted sugar, and a salt-spoonful of minced 
 lemon-rind. Let the butter melt, then add, 
 gradually, five ounces of fine flour. Stir the 
 paste quickly till it leaves the sides of the sauce- 
 pan. Draw it back, and let it cool, then stir 
 four eggs into it, one at a time, with a pinch of 
 salt, and a table-spoonful of orange-flower 
 water. Beat it well until the paste is quite firm 
 and smooth. Make tlie paste into small balls 
 about the size of a walnut, put them on a 
 floured tin, and bake in a slow and steady oven. 
 Dry them before the fire, and make a little slit 
 in the side to put jam, or cream, or iced coffee 
 into : they should be quite crisp and hard when 
 served. This pastry may be made into any 
 shape, and it swells very much in baking. Time 
 to bake the choux, about one hour. Suflicient 
 for a moderate-sized dish. 
 
 CHOWDER (an American <jish). 
 
 Fry a quarter of a pound of pickled pork, 
 which has been cut into dice, and a small minced 
 onion, in hot butter or lard, till they are a deep 
 brown. Put half of this at the bottom of a 
 saucepan, place over it a soup-plateful of mashed 
 potatoes, and over that some thick slices of un- 
 cooked sea bass or turbot, about four pounds in 
 weight, the remainder of the pork and onions, 
 and on the top, a second layer of potatoes. 
 Season with half a nutmeg grated, a tea-spoon- 
 ful of powdered mace, five or six cloves, a table- 
 spoonful of savoury herbs — of which one-third 
 should be thyme, one-third parsley, and one- 
 third marjoram^a tea/-spoonful of salt, and 
 four or five white peppercorns. Pour over all 
 half a bottle of claret, half a bottle qf ketchup^ 
 and sufficient water to cover it. Let it simmer 
 gently until the fish is cooked. Probable cost, 
 pork, lid., fish, 8d. to lOd. per pound. Suffi- 
 cient for five or six persons. 
 
 CHOWDER, FISH. 
 
 Fillet a fresh haddock, and cut into half-inch 
 squares. Boil the bones for two hours. Mince 
 small one onion and a thick slice of bacon, and 
 fry till of a light golden! colour. Take two 
 good-sized potatoes and cut into half -inch 
 squares. Place in your cooking utensil a layer 
 of potatoes and a layers of fish alternately, 
 sprinkling each layer with the onion, bacon, 
 chopped parsley, thyme, marjoram, pepper, and 
 salt. Let the top layer be potatoes. Strain 
 the liquor from, the bones, and pour on the 
 fish, etc. Cover, and stew for half an hour. 
 Boil half a pint of milk and stir into it two 
 ounces of rovigh ground captains' biscuit. Let 
 it stand for five minutes; add to the other in- 
 gredients, stir, and boil up. Sprinkle with 
 croutons of bread, fried crumbs, and chopped 
 parsley. Serve very hot. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 CHRISTMAS BUN, SCOTTISH. 
 
 Put one tea-spoonful of salt into two pounds 
 of flour, and rub into it three-quarters of a 
 pound of butter; add a little warm water and 
 
CHR 
 
 135 
 
 CHR 
 
 two tahle-s^oonfuls of fresh yeast, and knead 
 it into a light paste. Put aside about one- 
 third of this paste, and work into the rest one 
 pound and a half of currants, picked and dried, 
 two pounds of stoned raisins, four ounces of 
 blanched almonds cho.pped small, half a pound 
 of candied lemon, citron, and orange together, 
 all finely minced, and a quarter of an ounce 
 each of white pepper, ground ginger, and 
 powdered cinnamon. When these are well 
 worked in, shape the mass into a cylindrical 
 form like a cheese. Roll out the paste which was 
 set aside, and put it round the bun so as to 
 make a sort of case for it. Wet the edges, and 
 fasten them together to make them lie quite 
 flat. Prick some holes in the top, and run a 
 skewer from the top to the bottom in two or 
 three places. Flour some thick paper and wrap 
 the bun in it, binding it well with tape to keep 
 it in shape. Bake in a moderate oven. Time 
 to bake, one hour and a half or more. Probable 
 cost, 3s. for this quantity. 
 
 CHRISTMAS CAKE. 
 
 Beat one pound of butter into a cream, and 
 mix with it three eggs well beaten, two pounds 
 of flour, one pound of currants picked and 
 dried, one pound of sugar, five small tea-spoon- 
 fuls of baking-powder, and a quarter of a pint of 
 milk. Put the mixture into a buttered disE, and 
 bake it in a moderate oven. This is a very good 
 cake if intended to be used soon, but it soon gets 
 dry, and should not be kept in » damp place. 
 Time to bake, about two hours. Sufficient for 
 a good-sized cake. Probable cost, 2s. 8d. 
 
 CHRISTMAS CAKE (another way). " 
 
 Take five pounds of flour, mix with it a des- 
 sert-spoonful of salt, rub in three-quarters of 
 a pound of butter, and one pound of lard. Put 
 in an ounce and a half of German yeast or half 
 
 CHKISTMAS CAKE DECORATED WITH CHRISTMAS 
 ROSES. 
 
 a pint of good fresh brewers' yeast, and knead 
 as for common bread. If there is any difficulty 
 about the yeast, baking-powder may be used, 
 allowing a heaped tea-spoonful of ordihary 
 baking-powder for every pound of material. 
 If yeast is used, let the dough rise before add- 
 ing the other ingredients; Mix in three pounds 
 of currants, one pound and a half of moist sugar, 
 a whole nutmeg grated, a quarter of a pound of 
 candied lemon-peel finely minced, a table-spoon- 
 ful of brandy, and four eggs well beaten. But- 
 
 ter the tins, and line them well with buttered 
 paper. Bake in a moderate oven. Time to 
 bake, about two hours. Probable cost. Is. 4d. 
 per cake. Sufficient for four cakes. 
 
 CHRISTMAS PLUM PUDDING. 
 
 The plum pudding is a national dish, and is 
 not appreciated by foreign nations because they 
 never succeed in tlieir attempts to make it. 
 In almost every family there is a recipe 
 for it, which has been handed down from 
 mother to daugjiter through two or three 
 generations, and which never has been and 
 never will be eqiialled, much less surpassed, 
 by any other. Three or four recipes' are here 
 given, every one of which has been proved and 
 approved. Every ingredient composing these 
 puddiiigs should be fresh and good, as one bad 
 article, and especially one bad egg, will spoil 
 the whole. The puddings are, we think, better 
 when "boiled in moulds, which should be well 
 buttered before the mixture is put in, should 
 be quite full, and should be covered with one 
 or two folds of paper floured and buttered, and 
 then with a floured pudding-cloth. When bread 
 is use>i, which makes a pudding lighter than 
 flour, 'a little room should be allowed for swell- 
 ing. A pinch of salt should always be remem- 
 bered, as it brings out the flavour of the other 
 ingredients. After it is tied in the cloth the 
 pudding should be put into boiling water, and 
 kept boiling until it is taken off, when it should 
 be plunged quickly into a basin of cold water ; 
 by this means it will be less likely to break 
 when turned out of the mould. It is usual, be- 
 fore sending it to table, to make a little hole in 
 the top and fill it with brandy, then light it, 
 and serve it in a blaze. In olden times a sprig 
 of arbutus, with a red berry on it, was stuck in 
 the middle, and a twig of variegated holly, with 
 berries, placed on each side. This was done to 
 keep away witches. It is a good plan to mix 
 much more than is needed, and to make several 
 puddings instead of one, boil all together, and 
 warm one up when necessary. If well made, 
 Christmas plum pudding will be good for twelve 
 months. It should be boiled for eight or nine 
 hours some days before it is wanted; and when 
 it is to be used, plunged again into boiling 
 water, and boiled for at least two hours. 
 
 CHRISTMAS PLUM PUDDING. 
 
 Mix two pounds of finely minced suet with 
 two pounds of bread crumbs, and then add a 
 pound of flour, and half a pound of apples, 
 peeled and sliced. When this has been done, 
 add half a pound of each of raisins, currants, 
 sultanas, and Bemerara sugar, two ounces of 
 each of crystallised orange peel, citron peel, 
 ginger, and split almonds; the juice of half 
 an orange and lemon, half an ounce of mixed 
 spices, three eggs, half a pint of brandy or 
 rum, and a pint of stout. Mix these ingredients 
 in the usual way, fill buttered moulds, and boil 
 for eight hours. 
 
 CHRISTMAS PLUM PUDDING. 
 
 Take one and a half pounds of bread-crumbs, 
 half n pound of flour, two pounds of finely- 
 shredded beef suet, two pounds of stoned raisins, 
 two pounds of currants, washed, picked, and 
 dried, two pounds of sugar, a quarter of a 
 
CHR 
 
 136 
 
 CID 
 
 pound of candied lemon- and citron-peel, that is, 
 two ounces of each, two small nutmegs grated, 
 the juice of a lemon, and the rind finely 
 dhopped, a tea-spoonful of salt, two ounces of 
 sweet almonds, blanched and sliced, sixteen 
 egea, a glass of brandy, and as much milk as 
 will wet the mixture, but no more than that, as 
 it makes the pudding heavy. It should be as stiff 
 as paste. Mix all the dry ingredients thoroughly, 
 {hen add the eggs and milk, and, last of all, the 
 brandy. Boil it, and keep boiling for ten hours. 
 Sufficient for a large family pudding (big enough 
 for fourteen or sixteen persons) or four or five 
 small ones. Probable cost, 6s. 6d. 
 
 CHRISTMAS PLUM PUDDING (for children). 
 
 Shred finely three-quarters of a pound of beef 
 suet, and add to it a pinch of salt, one pound 
 and a half of bread-crumbs, half a pound of 
 flour, three-quarters of a pound of muscatel 
 raisins (these can be purchased loose, not in 
 bunches; they are then almost as cheap as the 
 ordinary pudding-raisins, and the flavour is 
 very superior), three-quarters of a pound of 
 currants, picked and dried, two ounces of can- 
 died lemon and citron together, and half a large 
 nutmeg. Mix these thoroughly, then add four 
 eggs and milk enough to moisten it, but not too 
 much, or the pudding will be heavy. Tie it in a 
 pudding-cloth well floured, and boil for five or 
 six hours. Probable cost, 28. Sufficient for 
 «ight or ten children. 
 
 CHRISTMAS PUDDING, ECONOMICAL AND 
 GOOD. 
 
 Shred very finely a quarter of a pound of 
 beef-suet, add a quarter of a pound of flour and 
 a quarter of a pound of finely-grated bread- 
 crumbs, six ounces of currants, picked and 
 dried, six ounces of stoned raisins, two table- 
 spoonfuls of brown sugar, a quarter of a pound 
 of mashed carrot and the same of mashed 
 potatoes, one ounce of chopped candied lemon 
 and one ounce of fresh lemon-rind, salt to taste, 
 and a table-spoonful of treacle. Mix these in- 
 gredients well together, tie loosely in a floured 
 cloth, boil for four hours, and serve with brandy 
 sauce. If possible, let this pudding be made a 
 few hours before it is wanted. Probable cost. 
 Is. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. 
 
 CHRISTMAS PUDDING, TEETOTALER'S, SMALL. 
 
 Take one pound of finely-grated bread-crumbs, 
 -pova over them a cupful of new milk, and let 
 them soak until the milk is quite absorbed, then 
 add a, quarter of a pound of moist sugar, half 
 a pound of finely-shredded beef suet, half a 
 pound of muscatel raisins, a quarter of a nut- 
 meg grated, and half of the thin rind of a lemon 
 chopped small. Mix all well together, then add 
 four well-beaten eggs, and boil at least five 
 hours. Serve with good melted butter, mix 
 with a little sugar, and, if liked, the juice of a 
 lemon. Probable cost. Is. 4d. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 CHRISTOPHER NORTH'S SAUCE FOR MEAT 
 OR GRAVY. 
 
 Put a dessert-spoonful of sifted loaf-sugar, a 
 salt-spoonful of salt, and a heaped salt-spoonful 
 of cayenne pepper into a jar. Mix them thor- 
 oughly, then add to them very gradually two 
 table-spoonfuls of Harvey's sauce, a dessert- 
 
 spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a table-spoonful 
 of fresh lemon-juice strained, and a glass of 
 port. Place the jar in a saucepan of boiling 
 water, and let it remain until quite hot, but do 
 not let it boil. If bottled when it is made, it 
 will keep good for several days. It may be used 
 for ducks, geese, pork, or any broil. If the 
 flavour of cayenne is liked, the quantities may 
 be doubled. The sauce should be made the 
 night before it is used. Time to heat, about a 
 quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 6d., for this 
 quantity. Sufficient for a quarter of a pint of 
 sauce. 
 
 CHUTNEY. 
 
 This is an Indian preparation consisting of a 
 mixture of sweet, sour, and hot ingrefuents. 
 It cannot, however, be prepared in England to 
 resemble exactly that which is made in the East, 
 as, of course, the fresh fruits requisite for it 
 cannot be obtained. The principal kinds are 
 known as Madras, Tirhoot, Bengal Club, Mango, 
 Lucknow, and others called after the names of 
 their inventors. They are used as a reUsh to 
 meat, and are frequently added to curries. A 
 sulsstitute for the real article may be made as 
 follows. Put into a marble mortar four ounces 
 of salt, four ounces of raisins, stoned and 
 minced very finely, three ounces of onions, and 
 three ounces of garlic, also finely minced, two 
 ounces of mustard-seed well bruised, and half 
 an ounce of cayenne pepper. Pound these well, 
 then mix with them very gradually fourteen 
 ounces of sour apples, weighed after they have 
 been pared and cored, and boiled with one pint 
 of strong brown vinegar and four ounces of 
 sugar. Mix the ingredients thoroughly, bottle 
 the preparation, and cork tightly. The longer 
 this sauce is kept the better it will be. Time to 
 prepare, about one hour and a half. Probable 
 cost. Is. 3d. per pint. It is used like mustard 
 with cold meat, and for sauces and gravies. 
 
 CIDER CUP. 
 
 At the bottom of a large jug put a slice of 
 crumb of bread toasted, grate half a small nut- 
 meg over it, and place on it two or three slices 
 of thin lemon-rind and half a dozen lumps of 
 sugar. Pour over it two wine-glassfuls of 
 sherry, one of brandy, the juice of a lemon, a 
 bottle of soda-water, and, last of all, a quart 
 of cider. Mix well, put a sprig of borage or 
 balm into it, and add a few lumps of pure ice. 
 This should be used as soon as it is made. 
 Time to make, ten minutes. Probable cost, 8d., 
 exclusive of tihe brandy, sherry, and cider. 
 Sufficient for a two-quart cup. 
 
 CIDER CUP (another way). 
 
 Take the thin rind of a lemon and three 
 slices of cucumber; put them into a quart of 
 cider, and set the vessel containing it on ice. 
 Let this stand a quarter of an hour, then re- 
 move the lemon-peel and cucumber. Add half 
 a wine-glassful of liqueur brandy, the same 
 quantity of cura5oa, and two bottles of ginger 
 beer. This last must be added immediately be- 
 fore the cup is served. Probable cost. Is. 2d. 
 
 CIDER VINEGAR. 
 
 Put half a pound of sugar into a half-gallon 
 jar. Fill it with cider. Shake it well, and let 
 it ferment for three or four months; the result 
 
CIN 
 
 137 
 
 CLA 
 
 will be two quarts of good, nicely-flavoured 
 vinegar. Probable cost, 5d. per pint. 
 
 CINNAMON BISCUITS. 
 
 Whisk six eggs with half a. pound of sifted 
 sugar, a quarter of an ounce of powdered cin- 
 namon, and a wine-glassful of rose or orange- 
 flower water. Work in gradually about half a 
 pound of flour, to form a paste. Roll this out 
 thin, cut it into little cakes in fancy shapes, and 
 bake them on a buttered tin in a moderate 
 oven for about twenty minutes, when they will 
 be lightly browned. Probable cost. Is. Suf- 
 ficient for an ordinary dessert-dish. 
 
 CINNAMON CAKE. 
 
 Mix thoroughly half a pound of powdered 
 sugar, half a pound of fine flour, half a pound 
 of fresh butter, a quarter of an ounce of 
 powdered cinnamon, the grated peel of a 
 quarter of a small lemon, and the whites of 
 eight eggs beaten to a solid froth. If pre- 
 ferred, a glass of brandy or rum may be added. 
 Pour the mixture into a buttered mould, and 
 bake it in a good oven. Two eggs and a cupful 
 of sour cream may be used instead of eight 
 eggs, and the mixture may be spread on a flat, 
 well-buttered tin, instead of being put into a 
 mould. Time, half an hour. Probable cost. 
 Is. lOd. Sufficient for a quart mould. 
 
 CINNAMON CORDIAL. 
 
 Pour three-pennyworth of oil of cinnamon 
 upon eight or nine large lumps of sugar, and 
 put them into a large bottle with a quart of 
 brandy, whisky, or gin, and half a pound of 
 sugar boiled to a syrup, with a cupful of water. 
 Shake all well together, and let the bottle 
 remain in a cool place for a few days; then 
 strain or filter the liquid until it becomes bright 
 and clear. Bottle for use. Time to infuse, a 
 week. Probable cost, uncertain, depending 
 on the spirits. Sufficient for one quart of 
 cordial. 
 
 CINNAMON DROPS. 
 
 Mix half an ounce of powdered cinnamon, or 
 half a tea-spoonful of oil of cinnamon, with a 
 pound of pounded sugar and half a pint of 
 water; boil the syrup to a candy height {see 
 Stigab, Boiling) or until it snaps when put 
 into cold water; then spread it on a large flat 
 dish, well oiled, and score it, before it hardens, 
 into small squares, or drop it evenly on paper. 
 Time to boil, about a quarter of an hour. 
 Probable cost, 8d. 
 
 CINNAMON, ESSENCE OF. 
 
 Put one-eighth of an ounce of oil of cinnamon 
 into four ounces of strong spirit. Bottle for 
 use. Sufficient, two or three drops will flavour 
 half a pint of sauce or liquid. 
 
 CINNAMON ICE CREAM. 
 
 Mix half an ounce of powdered cinnamon 
 with half a pound of sifted sugar, the yolks of 
 two eggs, and half a pint of new milk ; boil this 
 custard over a slow fire, stirring it all the 
 time until it thickens ; then add one pint of 
 thick cream and the jiiice of a small lemon. 
 Pour into a mould and freeze. Time to pre- 
 pare, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 2d. 
 Sufficient for a quart of ice cream. 
 
 CINNAMON SAUCE. 
 
 Boil a stick of cinnamon, which has been 
 broken into a dozen pieces, in half a pint of 
 water for half an hour; add two glassfuls of 
 sherry, two bay-leaves, and two table-spoonfuls 
 of pounded sugar. Simmer gently for ten 
 minutes, strain, and serve. Probable cost, ex- 
 clusive of ihe wine, 3d. Sufficient for a pint of 
 sauce. 
 
 CINNAMON TABLET. 
 
 This is made in the same way as cinnamon 
 drops, but instead of being scored into small 
 squares or formed into drops, it is marked into 
 squares of about one inch and a half. 
 
 CINNAMON, TINCTURE OF. 
 
 Put three ounces of bruised cinnamon into a 
 bottle of the best French brandy. It will be 
 ready for use in a week. The probable cost 
 will depend upon the quality of the brandy. 
 Sufficient, two tea-spoonfuls may be put into 
 a little cold water, or one tea-spoonful into a 
 glass of wine. The latter, if beaten up with 
 the yolk of an egg, and sweetened, is agree- 
 able and restorative. 
 
 CITRON AND ALMOND PUDDING. 
 
 This pudding is made in the same way as the 
 preceding one, with the addition of a dozen 
 sweet almonds blanched and pounded. In 
 both cases, if it is not wished to have a rich 
 pudding, a smaller number of eggs may be 
 used. 
 
 CITRON CAKE. 
 
 Mix the well-beaten yolks of six eggs with 
 half a pound of pounded and sifted sugar, and 
 ten ounces of fine flour; add half a pound of 
 fresh butter beaten to a cream, four ounces of 
 candied citron chopped small, a wine-glassful 
 of brandy, and the whites of the eggfs beaten 
 to a firm froth. Mix thoroughly, pour the mix- 
 ture into a well-buttered mould, and bake it in 
 a good oven. Time to bake, about three- 
 quarters of an hour. Probable cost, exclusive 
 of the brandy. Is. lOd. Sufficient for a medium- 
 sized mould. 
 
 CITRON PUDDING. 
 
 Mix two table-spoonfuls of flour very 
 smoothly with the beaten yolks of six eggs. 
 Add very gradually one pint of new milk or 
 cream, a quarter of a pound of citron chopped 
 small, and two table-spoonfuls of sugar. Mix 
 thoroughly, pour the batter into well-buttered 
 cups, and bake in a quick oven. Time to 
 bake, about twenty minutes, or till set. Prob- 
 able cost, if made with milk. Is. 2d. Sufficient 
 for six persons. 
 
 CIVET OF HARE. 
 
 {See Haee, Civet of.) 
 
 CLAMS. 
 
 Clams are a kind of cockle, and are to be 
 found on the west coast of Ireland and Scot- 
 land, and in Devonshire, Cornwall, and soine 
 parts of Wales. Though they figure largely in 
 American cookery, they are not much used in 
 England ; but persons living on the sea-shore 
 might make several by no means despicable 
 dishes from them. Soyer says that they " are 
 much superior in flavour to the oyster, and, if 
 
CLA 
 
 138 
 
 CLE 
 
 eaten raw, should be about the same size; but, 
 if larger, should be made into soup, or cooked 
 in the same way as the oyster." In America 
 they are stewed. The clams are put into a 
 stewpan, with a little water at the bottom of 
 the pan, then boiled for twenty-five or thirty 
 minutes, the scum carefully removed, and the 
 juice seasoned with pepper and salt. Clams 
 may also be egged and bread-crumbed and fried 
 in boiling fat. 
 
 CLAM SOUP. 
 
 Wash as many clams as may be required, and 
 put them into a saucepan with just sufficient 
 boiling water to keep them from burning.^ Boil 
 them for a few minutes, and when the shells 
 open and the juice runs out, take the clams 
 from the shells and chop them small. Strain 
 the liquor, and stir into it the chopped clams, 
 season it with pepper, and thicken it with a 
 little butter rolled in flour, and let it boil a 
 quarter of an hour. Put little pieces of 
 toasted bread in the tureen before pouring the 
 soup into it. The flavour of the soup may be 
 varied by the addition of onions or celery, or 
 a little milk may be added, or the yolks of 
 well-beaten, eggs. Soup may be made in the 
 same way from whelks and cockles. Time, half 
 an hour. Sufficient, a quart of soup for three 
 persons. 
 
 CLARENDON PUDDING. 
 
 Pour a large breakfast-cupful of boiling milk 
 upon three table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar and 
 the thin rind of a lemon. Let it stand until it 
 cools ; then stir it gradually into four well- 
 beaten eggs. Remove the crust from two 
 French rolls, cut them into slices, and butter 
 each slice thickly on both sides. Butter a plain 
 round mould, stick some raisins on the inside 
 in lines, and fill the mould with layers of rolls, 
 raisins, and custard. Soak for an hour, then 
 cover the pudding with a floured cloth and boil 
 or steam it. Time to boil or steam, one hour 
 and a half. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient ior 
 four or five persons. 
 
 CLARET CUP. 
 
 Pour a bottle of claret into a large jug, and 
 add two glasses of sherry, brandy, or any wine, 
 spirit, or liquor that may be preferred, and 
 half a glass of maraschino. Put in the thin 
 rind of a lemon and two table-spoonfuls of 
 powdered sugar. Let it stand for half an hour 
 till the sugar is dissolved, then put in a sprig 
 of borage, balm, or verbena, or a little sliced 
 cucumber. Just before using, add a bottle of 
 soda or seltzer water and a large piece of ice. 
 Sliced nectarines, peaches, or raspberries may 
 be used instead of lemon-rind. 
 
 CLARET, MULLED. 
 
 Put half a tea-spoonful each of cinnamon, 
 ground ginger, and cloves into a saucepan with 
 a breakfast-cupful of cold water, six ounces of 
 loaf sugar, and the thin rind of an orange. 
 Boil all to a syrup, being careful that the scum 
 is removed as it rises ; then add two bottles of 
 claret. Take the wine from the fire just before 
 it boils, and serve it at once. Time, about half an 
 hour. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the claret, 
 price of which would be according to quality. 
 
 CLARET PUFFS. 
 
 Mix a pint of claret vrith the same quantity 
 of thick cream. Add three table-spoonfuls of 
 pounded sugar, or more if liked, and let the 
 mixture stand some hours. Whisk it to a 
 froth, and as it rises take it off and put it on a 
 sieve. When it has drained, heap it on a glass 
 dish, and pour some thick cream round the 
 puffs to float them. Time to stand before 
 whisking, twelve hours. Probable cost, 2s. 6d., 
 exclusive of the claret. Sufficient for a good- 
 sized dish. 
 
 CLARET SAUCE. 
 
 Whisk two eggs thoroughly, ■ and put with 
 them a cupful of claret. Put the mixture into 
 a saucepan with half a tea-spoonful of flnely- 
 grated lemon-rind, a heaped table-spoonful of 
 sugar, and a little pounded" cinnamon. Whisk 
 the sauce over the fire till it is well frothed, 
 and when it is on the point of boiling pour it 
 over the pudding. Claret is an excellent wine 
 for sauces, as it contains very little spirit and 
 a great deal of flavour. Time, ten. minutes. 
 Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the wine. Suf- 
 ficient for a small pudding. 
 
 CLEAR SOUP (made from bones). 
 
 Take the bones of a piece of roast beef, 
 which should weigh, before cooking, seven or 
 eight pounds, or, if these are not at hand, one 
 pound of fresh bones; break them into small 
 pieces, and put them into a stewpan, with 
 three quarts of cold water. Let the liquid boil, 
 then draw the stewpan to the side of the fire, 
 and let it simmer gently for six hours. Very 
 carefully remove the scum as it rises. Strain 
 it, and leave it until the next day. Eemove 
 every particle of fat, and pour the liquid into the 
 stewpan (being careful to leave any sediment be- 
 hind), with a large carrot cut in slices, a turnip, 
 an onion, and a small tea-spoonful of bruised 
 celery-seed tied in muslin. Let these simmer 
 for another hour and a half; if the liquid is 
 very much reduced, add a little cold water, so 
 as to keep up the quantity to three pints. 
 Season it while boiling with pepper, salt, and 
 a small lump of sugar. Strain it again, and 
 skim it carefully from time to time. In order 
 to make it quite clear and bright, whisk the 
 whites of two eggs with half a pint of cold 
 water. Stir this briskly into the soup when it 
 is just warm. Let it boil, and gently lift off 
 the scum as it rises. Draw the stewpan back 
 a little, and keep it boiling gently for half an 
 hour. Let it stand to settle, and strain it 
 through a jelly-bag two or three times if neces- 
 sary. It ought to look like sherry. The white 
 of one egg is required for a pint of soup. Add 
 a tea-spoonful of Bovril, and a little brown- 
 ing, if the colour is too light, but care 
 must be taken in browning it. This soup may 
 be varied to any extent. Carrots, turnips, 
 onions, celery, green peas, asparagus, vermi- 
 celli, or macaroni may be added, and the soup 
 will then take the name of the vegetable which 
 is put into it. Macaroni and vermicelli should 
 be boiled separately, or they will spoil the clear- 
 ness. Sufficient for three pints. Probable cost 
 of clear soup, exclusive of the bones, 2d. per 
 pint. 
 
CLE 
 
 139 
 
 coc 
 
 CLEAR SOUP (made from fresh meat). 
 
 Cut three pounds of the shin of beef, two 
 pounds of veal, and two slices of ham into 
 small pieces, and lay them at the bottom of a 
 Etewpan with a lump of butter; put the bones 
 with the meat, and also a couple of large carrots 
 and turnips (sliced, a email tea^spoonful of 
 bruised celery-seed tied in muslin, and an onion 
 stuck With three cloves. Cover the stewpan, and 
 set it on the fire. Let the meat brown on both 
 sides, and when there is a brown glaze at the 
 bottom of the pan, put a little hot water to it. 
 Let it come just to the point of boiling, then add 
 a little cold water ; repeat this, and remove the 
 scum till no more rises, and then add three 
 quarts of water. Simmer gently by the side of 
 the fire for four or five hours. Strain through 
 a jelly-bag, but do not squeeze or press it at all, 
 and let the liquid remain until the next day, 
 when every particle of fat must be removed, 
 and any sediment or impurities which may be 
 at the bottom of the basin left untouched. 
 ^Vhen it is to be used, warm it, and, if neces- 
 sary, clarify it, but if the directions given have 
 been attended to, namely, the meat boiled 
 gently and without ceasing, the scum removed, 
 the liquid gently strained, and the sediment 
 left out, the soup will be as clear as spring 
 water, and of a bright golden colour. As was 
 said in the last recipe this soup may be varied 
 to any extent (see Clear Soup, made from 
 bonea). Season, while boiling, with pepper, 
 salt, and a piece of sugar. Probable cost, 4s. 
 Sufiicient for two quarts. 
 
 CLEAR SOUP, WITH POACHED EGGS. 
 
 Poach an egg carefully and lightly, trim the 
 edges neatly. Place it in a hot soup plate, and 
 pour a breakfast-cupful of clear soup gently 
 over it. A little chopped parsley or chervil may 
 be sprinkled in at the last moment. An excel- 
 lent invalid dish. Probable cost, 4d. ' 
 
 CLOVE CORDIAL. 
 
 Put two drachms of cassia buds, two drachms 
 of bruised cloves, a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, 
 and a blade of mace into a. bottle, and pour 
 over them a little hot water. Let them remain 
 near the fire, closely corked, for forty-eight 
 hours, then strain the liquid into three pints of 
 spirit, and add two table-spoonfuls of sugar. 
 Two or three drops of prepared cochineal may 
 be added to give the cordial a brighter colour. 
 Probable cost, 3d. or 4d., exc'usive of the spirit. 
 
 CLOVES, TINCTURE OF. 
 
 Put three ounces of bruised cloves into a 
 quart of brandy, and let them soak for a fort- 
 night. Strain, and bottle it for use. Or, dis- 
 solve one ounce of fresh oil of cloves in one 
 pint of rectified spirits of wine. The probable 
 cost; will depend on the strength and quality 
 of the spirit. Two or three drops will be suf- 
 ficient to flavour mulled wine, etc 
 
 COCHINEAL COLOURING. 
 
 Boil fifteen grains of powdered cochineal in 
 half a pint of water, with a piece of alum about 
 the size of a nut, and half a tea-spoonful of 
 (n-eam of tartar. Let the ingredients boil very 
 filowly for half an hour; strain the liquid, and 
 bottle it closely. Keep it in a, cool place. It 
 will keep better if three or four lumps of sugar 
 
 are boiled with it. Sufficient for nearly half a 
 pint. 
 
 COCK-A-LEEKIE. 
 
 Boil d young fowl in two quarts of white 
 stock until it is tender.' Take it up and put it 
 aside. Wash two bunches of fine leeks. Trim 
 away the roots and part of the heads, and cut 
 them into one-inch lengths. Put them into the 
 broth, and add half a pound of boiled rice and 
 a little pepper and salt. Boil half an hour. 
 Cut the fowl into neat joints, put it into the 
 soup, boil up, and serve very hot. The above 
 is true Cock-a-Leekie soup. The soup bearing 
 this name is, however, as often served without 
 the fowl as with it. Time, one hour and a 
 half. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for eight or 
 nine persons. 
 
 COCKLE SAUCE. 
 
 Prepare a gallon of cockles as for boiling (see 
 the following recipe). Set them on the fire, and 
 when the shells open, drain the liquid from 
 them, throw the shells away, and strain tha 
 liquid through muslin, to clear it from sand. 
 Stir in a pint of good melted butter, and add a 
 table-spoonful of vinegar, or the juice of a 
 lemon, and half a. tea-spoonful of white pepper. 
 Stir the sauce over the fire for two or three 
 minutes, but do not let it boil, and serve it 
 with cod or haddock. Time, about twenty 
 minutes altogether. Sufficient for four pounds 
 of fish. Probable cost of cockles, 3d. per quart. 
 
 COCKLES, BOILED. 
 
 Cockles should be washed in two or three 
 waters, and the sheila well scrubbed with a 
 hard brush, then put into salt and water, not 
 over strong, to cleanse themselves. They are 
 best roasted ou a tin laid on a stove, and eaten 
 while hot, with bread and butter and a little 
 pepper and vinegar. To boil them, put them in 
 a clean saucepan, with a table-spoonful of water 
 at the bottom of the pan, and a clean towel laid 
 over them. Shake the saucepan constantly, to 
 prevent them burning. As soon as the shells 
 open they are cooke3 enough. They may be 
 dressed in all the ways, excepting frying, prac- 
 tised with oysters and mussels. Time, five 
 minutes. Probable cost, 3d. per quart. Suf- 
 ficient, allow one pint for each person. 
 
 COCKLES, PICKLED. 
 
 Prepare the cockles as for sauce (see Cockle 
 Sauce) ; strain the liquid through muslin., 
 and put it into a saucepan with an equal quan^ 
 tity of vinegar, a blade of mace, and a wine- 
 glassful of sherry or brandy to every pint of 
 liquid. Let this boil. Put the cockles into 
 bottles, cover them with ths liquid, and cork 
 them closely. Time to open the cockles, five 
 minutes. Probable cost, 3d. per quart. Cockles 
 may be used to make fish-sauce when oysters 
 are out of season. 
 
 COCOA. 
 
 Many improvements have been made of late 
 years in the manufacture of this valuable ar- 
 ticle of diet. One of the best-known prepara- 
 tions of cocoa is Van Houten's, which contains 
 a maximum proportion of the food constituents 
 of the cocoa bean in a form easy of assimilation 
 and digestion. The beverage is made in the 
 
coc 
 
 140 
 
 COC 
 
 following manner. Put into a breakfast-cup a 
 tea-spoonful of white sugar, then half a tea- 
 spoonful of the cocoa. Withdraw the spoon ; 
 fill the cup rapidly with boiling water, and 
 then stir a little. Add milk, hot or cold, to 
 taste. 
 
 COCOA, PREPARED. 
 
 Mix two tea-spoonfuls of prepared cocoa with 
 a little cold milk, beat it with the back of a 
 spoon until quite smooth, then pour over it 
 ■equal quantities of boiling milk and water suf- 
 ficient to fill a breakfast-cup. Stir well to- 
 gether. The rock cocoa must be scraped into 
 powder before it is used, then made as above. 
 Time, five minutes. 
 
 COCOA NIBS. 
 
 Cocoa nibs, or shells, are the coverings of the 
 cocoa kernel. They should be soaked in water 
 for twelve hours, then boiled in the same water 
 till it is reduced to half the quantity. When 
 cool, the oily matter should be taken from the 
 top, as it would be likely to disagree with an 
 invalid. It is then served like chocolate. 
 Time to boil, five hours. A quarter of a pound 
 of nibs should be boiled with three quarts of 
 v/ater. Probable cost. Is. per pound. 
 
 COCOA-NUT CAKES. 
 
 Mix one pound of sifted loaf-sugar with 
 three-quarters of a pound of the white part of 
 cocoa-nut grated. Beat the whites of six eggs 
 to a firm froth, and mix all well together. Drop 
 the mixture on paper in rough knobs about 
 the size of a walnut, and bake them in a slow 
 •oven. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. 
 Probable cost. Is. 4d. per pound. Sufficient, 
 one dozen and a half for a dessert-dish. 
 
 COCOA-NUT CAKES (another way). 
 
 Put eight ounces of butter and eight ounces 
 of castor sugar into a basin, and beat them to 
 a firm froth ; add eight ounces of grated cocoa- 
 nut, six ounces of sifted flour, and four beaten 
 eggs one at a time. Line some cake moulds 
 -with buttered paper, and fill them three-parts 
 full with the preparation, cook in a moderately 
 iot oven. When done, brush over with egg 
 and scatter some grated cocoa-nut over, put 
 back in the oven for a moment to dry the cocoa- 
 nut, then let it cool. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 COCOA-NUT CANDY. 
 
 Put one pound of the best loaf sugar, broken 
 into lumps, into a saucepan, and pour over it 
 lialf a pint of spring water. Let it stand for a 
 quarter of an hour, then place it on the fire and 
 allow it to boil for five or six minutes. Remove 
 the scum and boil the sugar until it is thick 
 and white, then stir into it a quarter of a pound 
 ■of the white of a fresh cocoa-nut finely grated. 
 Stir it unceasingly until it rises in a mass in the 
 ■pan, then spread it as quickly as possible upon 
 sheets of paper which have been dried before 
 the fire. Remove the paper before the candy is 
 quite cold. Let it dry, then store it in tin 
 "boxes. The grated cocoa-nut should be spread 
 out and allowed to dry for two or three days be- 
 fore it is used for candy. 
 
 COCOA-NUT CHEESECAKES. 
 
 Pare off the rind from a fresh cocoa-nut, 
 grate the white part, and put it, with its weight 
 
 in sifted sugar, into a perfectly clean saucepan, 
 together with the milk, or, if this is not quite 
 sweet, two or three spoonfuls of water. Let it 
 simmer, stirring it gently until tender. When 
 the mixture is cool, add the yolks of two eggs 
 well beaten and a spoonful of orange-flower 
 water. Line some patty-pans with good pufi 
 paste, and put a little of the mixture into each. 
 Bake in a good oven. Sift a little sugar over the 
 cheese-cakes before baking them. Time to boil 
 the cocoa-nut, about three-quarters of an hour. 
 Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. 
 
 COCOA-NUT CREAM. 
 
 Put a cupful of cold spring water into a 
 saucepan with the thin rind of a quarter of a 
 small lemon, three table-spoonfuls of sifted 
 sugar, a small piece of stick cinnamon, and a 
 table-spoonful of the white of the cocoa-nut 
 sliced. Boil gently to a thick syrup; then add 
 the milk of two cocoa-nuts thickened with a 
 table-spoonful of cornflour or arrowroot. Let 
 all boil up together for a minute or two, add a 
 cupful of cream, strain, and stir until cold. 
 Just before serving, put with the cream half a 
 wine-glassful of brandy and three or four drops 
 of vanilla essence. Time, half an hour. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 6d., exclusive of the brandy. This 
 is a good sauce for a sweet pudding. 
 
 COCOA-NUT GINGERBREAD. 
 
 Put one pound of golden syrup, a quarter of a 
 pound of butter, and a quarter of a pound of 
 moist sugar into a saucepan. Let them heat 
 very slowly until the butter is quite melted, 
 when it must be well mixed with the syrup, and 
 the mixture poured into a bowl containing half 
 a pound of ground rice, half a pound of the best 
 flour, one ounce of ground ginger, a pinch of 
 salt, a dessert-spoonful of baking-powder, the 
 rind of half a lemon cut into small pieces, and 
 one ounce of chopped candied lemon. Mix 
 thoroughly, put the paste on one side, and, 
 when it is quite cold, stir into it the white part 
 of a large cocoa-nut finely grated. When it is 
 well beaten, drop the paste upon a well-but- 
 tered tin in small cakes, and bake these in a 
 moderate oven. Time to bake, about half an 
 hour. Probable cost. Is. 3d. per pound. Suf- 
 ficient, eighteen or twenty cakes for a dessert- 
 dish. 
 
 COCOA-NUT MACAROONS. 
 
 Take a fresh cocoa-nut, grate it finely, and 
 allow half a pound of finely-sifted sugar and 
 the whites of four eggs beaten to a firm froth to 
 every quarter of a pound of cocoa-nut. Mix 
 the ingredients thoroughly. Drop little balls of 
 the paste upon a well-buttered tin about two 
 inches apart flrom one another. Bake in a 
 moderate oven. When the macaroons are lightly 
 browned all over they will be ready. Time to 
 bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost. 
 Is. 6d. per pound. Sufficient, eighteen or twenty 
 for a dessert-dish. 
 
 COCOA-NUT MILK FLAVOUR. 
 
 This exceedingly delicious flavouring is ob- 
 tained by boiling the grated white part of the 
 nut with fresh sweet milk, and it may be used 
 in the composition of biscuits, cakes, custards, 
 blancmanges, etc. To six ounces of the nut 
 finely grated add two quarts of milk. Simmer 
 
coc 
 
 141 
 
 COD 
 
 the liquid slowly to extract the flavour without 
 reducing the quantity of milk. Do not mix the 
 milk from the nut until it has been tasted and 
 found pure and sweet. It should be strained 
 through a fine sieve, and the nut squeezed dry. 
 
 COCOA-NUT PASTE. 
 
 Drain the milk from a large cocoa-nut, pare 
 off the brown skin, and shred the white part aa 
 finely as possible ; put a pound of sugar into a 
 saucepan with a cupful of water, the shredded 
 cocoa-nut, and, if it is perfectly sweet, the milk 
 of the cocoa-nut. Let the mixture boil gently 
 until the syrup seems likely to return to sugar, 
 when the whisked whites of two eggs may be 
 added. Turn the paste on a dish and dry at the 
 mouth of a slow oven. 
 
 COCOA-NUT POUND-CAKE. 
 
 Beat half a pound of fresh butter to a cream, 
 add gradually one pound of fine flour, one pound 
 of sifted sugar, two tea-spoonfuls of baking- 
 powder, a small pinch of salt, a, tea-spoonful of 
 finely-chopped lemon-rind, the white part of a 
 cocoa-nut finely grated, four eggs well beaten, 
 and a cupful of new milk. Butter some square 
 tins, and line them with buttered paper, spread 
 the mixture in them about an inch and a half in 
 depth, and bake in a good oven. When they 
 are sufficiently baked, spread some sugar icing 
 over them, and return them to the oven for a 
 minute or two to dry. Time to bake, from 
 thirty to forty minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 3d. 
 for this quantity. Sufficient for two or three 
 small cakes, or one large one. 
 
 COCOA-NUT PUDDING. 
 
 Mix two eggs, well beaten, with a cupful of 
 new milk and the milk of the cocoa-nut, if the 
 latter is quite sweet. Take off the brown skin 
 of the nut, and grate the white part as finely as 
 possible. Mix it with three table-spoonfuls of 
 finely-grated bread-crumbs, three table-spoon- 
 fuls of sifted sugar, two ounces of butter beaten 
 to cream, six ounces of Muscatel raisins, and a 
 tea-spoonful of lemon-rind thinly sliced. Beat 
 all well together, pour the mixture into a well- 
 buttered pie-dish, and bake it in a rather slow 
 oven. Turn it out, and serve with sifted sugar 
 strewn over it. This pudding may be either 
 baked or boiled. Time to bake, one hour and 
 a half; to boil, three hours. Probable cost. 
 Is. 3d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 COCOA-NUT PUDDING (another way). 
 
 Take a large, fresh cocoa-nut, remove the 
 brown skin, and grate the white part as finely 
 as possible ; mix very thoroughly a quarter of a 
 pound of fresh butter, a quarter of a pound of 
 sifted sugar, and the grated cocoa-nut; when 
 they are quite smoothly mixed, add a pint of 
 new milk or cream, five eggs well beaten, a tiny 
 pinch of salt, and the eighth of a nutmeg 
 grated. Pour the mixture into a well-buttered 
 dish, and bake in a good oven. This pudding 
 may be eaten either hot or cold. Time to bake, 
 about forty minutes. Probable cost. Is. 8d., if 
 made with milk. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 COCOA-NUT SAUCE. 
 
 Grate finely the white part of a cocoa-nut, and 
 boil it gently, stirring it well, in a cupful of 
 water, in which has been dissolved its weight. 
 
 before boiling, in sugar; press it through a 
 sieve; add a cupful of thick cream and the 
 beaten yolk of an egg; put the mixture on the 
 fire for a minute or two, but do not let it boil 
 after the egg is added, for fear it should curdle. 
 Time, altogether, half an hour. Probable cost, 
 cocoa-nut, 4d. or 6d. Sufficient for a moderate- 
 sized pudding. 
 
 COCOA-NUT SOUP. 
 
 Grate very finely the white of a fresh cocoa- 
 nut, and simmer it gently for an hour in some 
 good stock, allowing a quarter of a pound of 
 cocoa-nut for every half-gallon of stock. StraiiL 
 the liquid, and thicken it with some ground 
 rice ; half a pound of ground rice will be enough 
 for this quantity. Season it with a little salt 
 and cayenne, and a small tea-spoonful of mace. 
 Just before serving, draw it from the fire, and 
 add a cupful of thick cream. Time, altogether, 
 t^yo hours. Probable cost. Is. per quart. Suf- 
 ficient, this quantity for nine or ten persons. 
 
 COCOA-NUT SPONGECAKES. 
 
 Take a large fresh cocoa-nut, remove the 
 brown skin, and grate the white part on a per- 
 fectly clean, bright grater as finely as possible; 
 beat the yolks of six eggs, and be sure that they 
 are perfectly fresh; stir in gradually, and mix 
 thoroughly, half a pound of sifted sugar, a 
 pinch of salt, half a tea-spoonful of grated 
 lemon-rind, and the yolks of the eggs. Beat the 
 mixture for a quarter of an hour, then add, by 
 degrees, a quarter of a pound of flour, and the 
 grated cocoa-nut, and last of all, the whites of 
 the eggs whisked till firm. Line square tins 
 with buttered paper, pour in the mixture, an^ 
 bake the cakes immediately, in a brisk oven. 
 Do not open the door of the oven until the cakes 
 are baked. Time, about half an hour. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 4d. Sufficient for one moderate- 
 sized cake, or two small ones. 
 
 COD. 
 
 Cod comes into season about the beginning 
 of October, when other large fish are going out- 
 If the weather is cold, it is then very good ; it is 
 at its very best about Christmas, but goes off 
 from the end of February or the middle of 
 March. It is essentially a winter fish, and is 
 not in season in the hot months of the year. 
 The best cod are those which are plump and 
 round at the tail, the sides having a ribbed 
 appearance, with yellow spots upon a pure skin. 
 In order to ascertain if the fish is fresh, press 
 the finger into the flesh, and if it rises imme- 
 diately and feels firm and stiff, it is fresh. It is 
 much better not to cook a cod whole. The 
 upper part is so much thicker than the tail that 
 the latter would be boiled to rags before the 
 rest was cooked. The head and shoulders are 
 generally boiled; the rest may be fried or 
 stewed in slices. Epicures look out for the 
 sound, the glutinous parts about the head, and 
 the tongue. A little salt should be rubbed 
 down the bone and on the thick part aa soon as 
 the fish comes into the house. 
 
 COD (k la Bechamel). 
 
 Eemove the flesh from the bones of a cooked 
 cod and break it into convenient pieces. Put a 
 cupful of white stock, nicely seasoned, and a 
 cupful of new milk, into a saucepan ; thicken it 
 
COD 
 
 142 
 
 COD 
 
 ■with a little flour and butter, put the pieces of 
 fish into it, and let them remain until quite 
 hot, but the sauce must not be allowed to boil. 
 Serve with the sauce and fish in the middle of 
 a hot dish, and place a border of mashed pota- 
 toes pound it. Time, twenty minutes. 
 
 COD (a la Cr^me). 
 
 Boil a slice of cod, and, while it is warm, 
 break it into convenieut-sized pieces, or the re- 
 mains of cold cod may be used instead. Put a 
 pint of new milk into a saucepan, with a blade 
 of mace, a tea-spoonful of salt, and half the 
 rind of a small lemon. Let it stand by the side 
 of the fire till the milk is hot and the flavour of 
 the lemon and mace is drawn out; then strain 
 it into a basin. Put a piece of butter the size 
 of a large egg into a saucepan, and, when it is 
 melted, mix two table-spoonfuls of flour very 
 smoothly with it; add the milk gradually till 
 the sauce is of the proper thickness; let it boil 
 a few minutes, then put in the pieces of fish. 
 Let them heat through. Serve with sippets of 
 toasted bread. Time, half an hour. Probable 
 cost, exclusive of the fish, 6d. Sufficient for 
 four persons. 
 
 COD (a t'EspagnoIe). 
 
 Take one or two slices of cod about an inch 
 in thickness, or the tail end of the cod, remove 
 the skin, dredge a little flour over the fish, and 
 fry it in hot butter or lard until nicely browned. 
 Take it out gently with an egg-slice, drain it, 
 and put it into a saucepan with as much good 
 trown gravy boiling as will cover ft. Add a 
 little salt and cayenne, the juice of half a lemon, 
 a lump of sugar, an onion stuck with two cloves, 
 and half a tumblerful of port. Simmer very 
 Boftly till the fish is sufficiently cooked; take 
 it out, place it on a hot dish, strain the gravy, 
 thickening it with a little browned butter, aiid 
 serve immediately. Claret may be substituted 
 for the port, if preferred, or the wine may be 
 omitted altogether, and the sauce flavoured with 
 ketchup. Time, altogether, half an hour. Prob- 
 able cost of cod, when in full season, 6d. to 8d. 
 per pound. Sufficient, tAvo slices for four per- 
 sons. 
 
 COD (a la Fran^aise). 
 
 Take two slices of cod about an inch and a 
 half in thickness. Put them in salt and water 
 for a few minutes, then drain, and fry them in 
 lot butter till they are half cooked. Cover them 
 ■with good stock, stew them until tender, then 
 place them on a hot dish, and pour over them a 
 pint of sauce, made as follows. Put a break- 
 fast-cupful of nicely-flavoured stock into a 
 saucepan with half the quantity of thick cream ; 
 let it boil, draw it back, and when cool, add 
 salt and pepper, half a tea-spoonful of lemon, 
 half a tea-spoonful of garlic vinegar, and half 
 a tea-spoonful of sifted sugar. Time, alto- 
 gether, from forty to fifty minutes. Probable 
 cost of cod, 6d. to 8d. per pound. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 COD (a la MaTtre d'Hotel). 
 
 Boil two slices of cod, as in the last recipe. 
 Wash some fresh green parsley in two or three 
 •waters. Chop it small, and knead two table- 
 spoonfuls of it with two ounces of fresh butter, 
 an ounce of flour, a little salt and cayenne, and 
 
 the juice of half a lemon. Put this mixture 
 into a saucepan with half a pint of milk, and 
 stir it over a gentle fire until it is on the point 
 of boiling. Add another half ounce of butter, 
 and when it is melted pour the sauce over the 
 fish and serve. The sauce may be made by 
 stirring a table-spoonful of finely-chopped pars- 
 ley in a pint of good melted butter. Mix well, 
 season with salt and cayenne, add the juice of 
 half a lemon, and, just before serving, draw 
 the sauce back, and add, very gradually, the 
 well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Time, alto- 
 gether, about forty minutes. Probable cost, 
 about 8d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 COD (it I'Ostende). 
 
 Make a batter with flour, egg, and milk, and 
 let it stand for several hours. Take one pound 
 and a half of cod, and cut it into two thick 
 slices. Divide these into little fillets about two 
 inches across, dip them into the batter, and 
 fry in boiling fat or oil till they are of a pale 
 golden brown. Fry eight or ten oysters lightly 
 in a little butter, without allowing them to 
 harden. Arrange the fillets on a folded servi- 
 ette, and place an oyster on each. Garnish with 
 parsley or watercress. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 
 COD (^ la Provencale). 
 
 Remove the skin and bones from the remains 
 of cold cod, and break it into convenient-sized 
 pieces. Mince finely equal quantities of shallot, 
 young onions, and chives, parsley, and lemon- 
 peel. Add a little grated nutmeg, salt, and 
 pepper, and mix all well together with two 
 table-spoonfuls of salad-oil. Place this in a. 
 pie-dish, put in the pieces of fish, and bake in a, 
 moderate oven. Serve very hot, with lemon- 
 juice squeezed over the fish. Time, three- 
 quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 6d., exclu- 
 sive of the cold fish. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 COD (au Gratin). 
 
 Take the remains of cold cod, remove the skin 
 and bones, and break the flesh into convenient- 
 sized pieces. Butter a pie-dish rather thickly; 
 place in it alternate layers of cod and oyster 
 sauce until the dish is full, flavouring each 
 layer with salt, cayenne, and a little powdered 
 mace. Strew fine bread-crumbs over all, and 
 put two or three liftle pieces of butter here and 
 there. Bake for about half an hour. Sufficient, 
 a small dishful for two or three persons. 
 
 COD, BAKED. 
 
 Take a piece weighing about three pounds out 
 of the middle of a large cod. Make a stuffing 
 with the sound boiled for twenty minutes, 
 chopped small, and mixed ■with two ounces of 
 grated bread-crumbs, a tea-spoonful of chopped 
 parsley, a pinch of powdered thyme, a small 
 tea-spoonful of salt, half the quantity of pep- 
 per, a little grated nutmeg, and the yolks of two 
 hard-boiled eggs. Bind all together with a' 
 little of the white of the egg. Put this force- 
 meat inside the fish, and sew it up. Place the 
 fish in a baking-dish, and pour over it enough 
 thin flour and water to fill the dish three parts. 
 Put in a dozen oysters, also a little scraped 
 horse-radish, and a little salt and pepper. Lay 
 three or four lumps of butter on the fish, put it 
 
COD 
 
 143 
 
 COD 
 
 in the oven, and baete it frequently. When it is 
 sufficiently cooked, lay the cod on a hot dish, 
 and garnish it with the oysters. Put the gravy 
 into a saucepan, add to it a tea-spoonful of 
 anchovy sauce, and another of vinegar; boil it, 
 pour it over the fish, and serve. Time to bake, 
 about one hour. Probable cost of cod, when 
 plentiful, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. 
 
 COD, BAKED (another way). 
 
 Prepare the fish as in the last recipe ; brush it 
 over with beaten egg, strew some finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs on it, and put it in a dish with 
 three or four lumps of butter on it. Baste it 
 frequently, and turn it over that it may be 
 equally cooked throughout. Some persons place 
 the fish on a drainer over a deep dish, in which is 
 placed a carrot, a turnip, an onion, a cupful of 
 water, and the juice of a lemon. The fish is 
 then basted frequently with butter, but it must 
 not touch either the vegetables or the water. 
 Serve either with melted ' butter, oyster sauce, 
 shrimp sauce, or sauce supreme. Time to bake, 
 about one hour. Probable cost of cod, 8d. per 
 pound when in full season. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. 
 
 COD, BOILED. 
 
 In cold weather cod is better for being kept a 
 day, as, if cooked quite fresh, it may prove 
 watery. A large cod-fish should not be cooked 
 whole ; the head and shoulders make a good dish 
 by themselves, though the middle contains more 
 solid meat. Wash and cleanse the inside of the 
 fish with great nicety, and especially the back- 
 bone ; put it into plenty of cold water, in which 
 a handful of salt has been thrown, bring it to a 
 boil, skim it carefully, let it boil gently, and, 
 when it is nearly cooked, draw it to the side of 
 the fire, and let it remain until done. Put it on 
 the fish-plate over the boiling water, and let it 
 drain for a minute or two, and dish it on a hot 
 napkin, with the roe and liver, which should be 
 boiled separately, a little scraped horae-radish, 
 or fried oysters, as garnish. Oyster or anchovy 
 sauce, or plain melted butter, may be served 
 with it. Time to boil, twenty minutes for a 
 moderate-sized piece, longer for a large one. 
 When the flesh leaves the bone easily the fish 
 is cooked enough. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. 
 Sufficient, four pounds for six persons. 
 
 COD, COLD. 
 
 The remains of cod may be used in various 
 ways. One thing, however, should be attended 
 to, and that is to remove the flesh from the skin 
 and bones before it is quite cold. When this is,- 
 done the cod may be simply arranged in neat 
 flakes on a plate, peppered, a little vinegar 
 poured over it,, and the fish garnished with 
 parsley; and served thus, it will not be a 
 despicable addition to the breakfast-table, 
 though further trouble will be amply repaid. If 
 any cold sauce is left, it may be poured over the 
 fish, bread-crumbs or mashed potatoes spread 
 on it, a piece of butter dotted here and there, 
 and the whole browned in a good oven, or be- 
 fore the fire (see Fish Pudding). It may be 
 served with macaroni (see Cod and Macaboni). 
 It may be made into cakes, and served as cut- 
 lets (see Cod-fish Cakes). It may be moulded 
 (see Fish Mould). It may be stewed, and 
 
 served with maitre d'hotel sauce, Italian sauce, 
 or supreme sauce. It may be curried, cooked 
 with grated Parmesan, or with bechamel, or 
 brown sauce, or served au gratin, a la Proven- 
 9ale, or as a mayonnaise. The pieces may be 
 put into a stewpan, taking care not to omit the 
 sound, the tongue, or the eatable parts about 
 the head. Any sauce that may be left may 
 then be poured over it, a lump of butter added, 
 and a dozen oysters with their liquor, or mus- 
 sels, or cockles, or a few shrimps. The prepar- 
 ation may then be heated gently, put into a 
 dish, bread-crumbs strewed over, and browned. 
 In numerous ways cold cod, or cold fish of any 
 kind, may be, with a little trouble and atten- 
 tion, presented again at table, and will form a 
 palatable and pleasing dish. 
 
 COD, CRIMPED. 
 
 Make some deep cuts as far as the bones on 
 both sides of <t perfectly fresh cod, making the 
 cuts, at two inches distance, and cut one or two 
 gashes on the cheeks; then lay the fish in cold 
 water, with a table-spoonful of vinegar in it, 
 for an hour or two. It may afterwards be 
 boiled or fried. If it is to be boiled, it should be 
 plunged at once into boiling water, and then sim- 
 mered gently. Crimping renders the flesh firmer, 
 andmak^s it better both to cook and to serve. 
 
 Cpa, CROQUETTES OF. 
 
 Take the remains of cold cod, remove the skin 
 ahfl bones, and mince one pound very finely 
 with one dozen oysters, or two dozen cockles, a 
 little pepper and salt, and four ounces of finely- 
 grated bread-crumbs ; work the mixture well to- 
 gether with a little cream, and make it up into 
 balls about the size of an egg; dip these in 
 beaten eggf and bread-crumbs, fry them in 
 hot lard till lightly browned, and serve them 
 piled high on a dish, and garnished with 
 paisley. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable 
 ^ost, 6d., exclusive of the cold cod and oysters. 
 AlLpw Ijwo croquettes for each person. 
 
 COD, CURRIED. 
 
 Put a piece of butter about the size of a lar^e 
 egg into a saucepan, let it melt, then fry in it 
 three pounds of cod cut into pieces about two 
 inches square, two large onions, and one apple 
 ci^t into thin slices, a tea-spoonful of thyme, 
 and a bay-leaf. Let them remain until the 
 onions are nicely browned, then add a break- 
 fast-cupful of good stock, a tea-spoonful of curry 
 powder, ' a tea-spoonful of curry paste, and a 
 tea-spoonful of ground rice mixed smoothly with 
 a little of the stock. Simmer gently for a 
 quarter of an hour, add a small cupful of cream, 
 two pinches of salt, and one of pepper. Put the 
 . cod, with the gravy poured over it, on a hot 
 dish, and serve with a bank of rice round the 
 border. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Prob- 
 able cost of cod, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 
 COD, CURRIED (another way,. 
 
 Take the remains of cold cod, remove the skin 
 and bones, break it into flakes, and fry it a 
 golden brown in some hot dripping or lard. 
 Drain it, and fry some sliced onions in th? same 
 fat, put them with the fish, and stir into the fat 
 ; some rice flour. Mix it quite smoothly, and add 
 '.■ by degrees sufficient stock to make the sauce of 
 
COD 
 
 144 
 
 COD 
 
 the consistency of cream ; add a tea-spoonful of 
 curry powder, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and 
 two or three grains of cayenne. Put the cod 
 and onions with the curry, and let them simmer 
 for a few minutes. Place the fish on a hot dish ; 
 add half a cupful of cream to the gravy, let it 
 nearly boil, then pour it over the fish, and serve 
 either with or without a wall of rice. Time, half 
 an hour. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the 
 cold fish and the cream. Sufficient, one pound 
 of cold fish with sauce, for three persons. 
 
 COD-FISH BALLS. 
 
 Take about one pound of cold cooked salt 
 cod-fish, and remove all skin and bone. Chop 
 double the quantity ot cold boiled potatoes, and 
 mix them with the fish. Add a table-spoonful 
 of melted butter and a well-beaten egg. Mould 
 into round balls, flour lightly, and fry till 
 brown in boiling lard. Probable cost, 8d. 
 
 COD-FISH CAKES. > 
 
 Take the remains of cold cod, remove the skin 
 and bones, and weigh the meat. To every pound 
 of cod allow an equal weight of well-mashed 
 potatoes, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper, a few drops of anchovy, half 
 a tea-spoonful of chopped onion, one egg, and 
 sufficient milk to bind the mixture together. 
 If the fish -was salted, the salt must be omitted. 
 Make the paste up into small cakes about an 
 inch thick, fry them in hot butter or lard till 
 they are well browned on both sides, and serve 
 them as hot as possible. Probable cost, 6d., 
 exclusive of the cold fish. Allow two or three 
 cakes for each person. 
 
 COD, FRIED. 
 
 The tail end of the cod is best cooked in this 
 manner, as it is not much esteemed when boiled. 
 Steaks may be cut from the middle and served in 
 this way also. Cut the fish into slices rather 
 more than an inch thick, wash them well and 
 dry them thoroughly in a clean cloth. Roll 
 them in flour, and sprinkle a little salt and 
 grated nutmeg over them. Plunge them into 
 boiling lard, and fry them till they are lightly 
 browned on both sides, and the flesh parts 
 easily from the bone. Put them on a piece of 
 clean blotting paper to clear them from fat; 
 serve them on a hot napkin, and send them to 
 table garnished with parsley and accompanied 
 with melted butter or anchovy sauce. Time, 
 about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost of 
 cod, 8d. per pound, when plentiful. Sufficient, 
 three pounds for four or five persons. 
 
 COD, FRIED. 
 
 Take the remains of cold cod. Break it into 
 pieces about two inches long and one broad, and 
 dip each into a light batter. Fry them in hot 
 lard or dripping. Put them on blotting paper 
 to clear them from the fat, pile them on a dish, 
 and garnish with fried parsley. Time, three or 
 four minutes to fry. 
 
 COD, HEAD AND SHOULDERS OF. 
 
 Wash the fish thoroughly, rub a little salt on 
 the inside of it, and bind tape round the cheeks 
 to prevent them breaking. If the fish is crimped, 
 it may be plunged into hot water, if not, cold 
 must be used, but it must be poured very gently 
 over the cod so as not to break the skin. A 
 table-spoonful of salt should be allowed for 
 
 every three quarts of water. As soon as the 
 water boils, draw the kettle on one side, remove 
 the scum carefully, and let the fish simmer 
 gently till it is ready. Drain it well, and serve 
 on a hot napkin with the roe and liver, which 
 should be cooked separately, and a little horse- 
 radish and sliced lemon for garnish. When the 
 flesh parts easily from the bone the fish is' ready. 
 Send oyster or anchovy sauce and melted butter 
 to table with it. The time to boil will depend 
 on the size, quality, and age of the fish; a small, 
 young head and shoulders will not require more 
 than twenty minutes; and a large, old, solid 
 one may take forty. Probable cost, 8d. or lOd. 
 per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 COD HEAD, BROWNED. 
 
 A cod's head in London is usually sold and 
 served with the shoulders, but in some places it 
 is cut off, and the rest of the fish retailed by 
 the pound. As the head contains one or two of 
 the tit-bits, namely, the tongue, the nape of 
 the neck, and the gelatinous parts about the 
 cheeks, it makes a very good dish. Take two 
 or three heads, remove the eyes, wash the heads, 
 drain them, sprinkle a little salt over them, and 
 let them lie an hour or two ; put them into boil- 
 ing water, and boil them from ten to twenty 
 minutes, according to the size. Take them out, 
 drain them, remove the skin, and dredge a little 
 flour equally over them. Place them before a 
 clear fire, and baste them well with good drip- 
 ping or butter. When they are lightly browned 
 they are ready. Garnish with parsley and 
 sliced lemon. For sauce, thicken a breakfast- 
 cupful of the liquid in which the heads were 
 boiled with a lump of butter rolled in flour. 
 Boil this, stirring it all the time, till it is quite 
 smooth; add a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, 
 and send the sauce to table in a, tureen. Prob- 
 able cost of cods' heads, 2d. each. 
 
 COD MOULD. 
 
 Take the remains of cold cod or any cold fish, 
 weigh it, and with one pound of fish mix three 
 table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs, a table-spoon- 
 ful of anchovy sauce, and a little salt and cay- 
 enne. If any of the sauce with which the fish 
 was first sent to table remains it may be used 
 instead of the anchovy. Pound all well in a 
 mortar, with a little butter and the yolk of an 
 egg. Press the mixture into a well-buttered 
 mould; cover it with a plate, and steam it for 
 three-c(uarters of an hour. Probable cost, 4d., 
 exclusive of the cold fish. Sufficient for three 
 persons. 
 
 COD PIE, FRESH. 
 
 Take a deep pie-dish, and fill it three-parts 
 with pieces of fresh cod about two inches square. 
 Season them with salt, cayenne, and grated nut- 
 meg, lay two dozen oysters on the top, and put 
 two or three lumps of butter over all. Cover' 
 with a good crust, and bake the pie in a mod- 
 erate oven. Time to bake, about forty minutes. 
 Probable cost of cod, 8d. per pound, when plen- 
 tiful. A pie made with three pounds of cod, 
 and two dozen oysters, will be sufficient for 
 six persons. 
 
 COD PIE, SALT. 
 
 Soak the ood for twelve hours, and simmer 
 it for a quarter of an hour. Cut it into pieces 
 
COD 
 
 145 
 
 COD 
 
 ajbout two inches sc[uare. Take a deep pie-dish ; 
 place a layer of sliced potatoes, half boiled, at 
 the bottom of the dish, then a layer of fish, then 
 one of partly-boiled onions sliced. Put a little 
 pepper and pounded mace on each layer, and a 
 lump of butter, but, of course, no salt. Make 
 some good melted butter, and mix with it a 
 little made mustard, a table-spoonful of ketchup 
 and a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovies. 
 Pour this over the pie, cover it with a good 
 crust, and bake it in a brisk oven. Mashed 
 potatoes may be spread over the top of the pie, 
 instead of pastry, if preferred. Time to bake, 
 about three-quaiters of an hour. Probable 
 cost of salt fish, 6d. per pound. Sufficient, a 
 moderate-sized pie for three or four persons. 
 
 COD ROE AND CREAM. 
 
 Take a cooked cod roe, remove the skin, 
 and pound the roe in a mortar. Add the juice 
 of two lemons, and a little salt and cayenne. 
 Boil all with a breakfast-cupful of cream, and 
 thicken with a well-beaten egg. Serve on hot 
 buttered toast. Probable cost, lOd. 
 
 COD ROE CUTLETS. 
 
 Put a cod roe into a pan of salted boiling 
 water, and cook it for five minutes. Then take 
 it out and put it into cold water for a few 
 minutes. To this water add a table-spoonful of 
 vinegar and half a table-spoonful of salt, and 
 boil the roe for thirty minutes. Then let it 
 drain well and get cold. Cut it into slices about 
 half an inch thick, trim them neatly, brush 
 them over with beaten egg, and cover with 
 bread-crumbs. Pry them in boiling fat to a, 
 golden brown. Drain them well, and serve on 
 a napkin with parsley. Protfable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 COD, SALT (k la Franpaise). 
 
 Choose cod which has not been very long 
 salted. Soak it and simmer foRa quarter of an 
 hour. When sufficiently cooked, drain the fish, 
 and remoVe the skin and bone; break the flesh 
 into flakes, put them in a stewpan, and stir them 
 quickly over the fire for five or six minutes, 
 adding, a little at a time, as much olive-oil as 
 will form a smooth paste. Take it from the fire, 
 add a little thick cream, and cayenne, and if the 
 flavour is liked, some pounded garlic. Place the 
 mixture on a dish, and serve it with toasted 
 sippets. Time to heat the fish with the oil while 
 stirring it, five or six minutes. Probable cost 
 of salt fish, 6d. per pound. Sufficient, one 
 pound for three or four persons. 
 
 COD, SALT, FRIED. 
 
 Soak and simmer the cod as in the preceding 
 recipe; drain it, and divide it into large flakes. 
 Pry in a little butter two large onions cut into 
 thin slices, and, when lightly browned, drain 
 them. Thicken the butter with a little flour, 
 and when very smooth add gradually some 
 new milk or cream until the sauce is as thick as 
 a custard. Let the onions heat once more in the 
 sauce, and season them with a little cayenne. 
 Fry the flakes of fish until lightly browned. 
 Place them on a hot dish, and pour the 
 sauce over them. Time to simmer the salt cod, 
 fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. 
 per pound. One pound of cod with sauce will 
 serve for three or four persons. 
 E 
 
 COD, SALT, RECHAUFFE OF. 
 
 Take the remains of salt cod; put the flesh, 
 freed from skin and bone, into a pie-dish, pour 
 the remains of the egg sauce over it, and pep- 
 per it lightly. Mash some potatoes with milk 
 or butter, place these round the edge of the 
 fish, and bake for about half an hour, or till the 
 potatoes are lightly coloured. If no egg 
 sauce has been left, the fish may be moistened 
 with fresh melted butter. Probable cost, 8d. 
 
 COD, SALT, WITH PARSNIPS (a dish for Ash 
 Wednesday). 
 Salt cod is usually accompanied by parsnips, 
 probably because that wholesome root is at its 
 best and sweetest during the course of Lent, 
 and it is very generally served with them and 
 egg sauce on Ash Wednesday. Wash the fish 
 thoroughly, and lay it in cold water to draw 
 out the salt. It must lie for at least twelve 
 hours, and longer if it is very salt, and the 
 water ought to be changed every four or five 
 
 SALT COD WITH PAB.SNIPS. 
 
 hours. When thoroughly soaked, put it in a 
 saucepan with plenty of cold water, and let it 
 heat very gradually. It must not be allowed 
 to boil, or it will harden. When nearly boiling, 
 draw it to the side of the fire, and let it simmer 
 gently for about twenty minutes. Drain it, and 
 serve it unbroken on a hot napkin, accompanied 
 by mashed parsnips and egg sauce (see Ego 
 Sauce). Time to soak, ftom twelve to forty- 
 eight hours, according to the dryness and 
 saltness of the fish. Probable cost, 6d. per 
 pound. 
 
 COD SAVOURY. 
 
 Make a forcemeat with a cupful of white 
 bread-crumbs, one egg, a, tjible-spoonful of 
 minced parsley, two tea^spoonfuls of minced 
 thyme, one ounce of lean bacon or ham; pepper 
 and salt to taste. Remove the bone from a 
 middle piece of cod, insert the stuffing, and rub 
 in a little butter or dripping. Sew up each end, 
 and put the cod in a, baking-dish with a cupful 
 of cold water. Place a few little pats of butter 
 over the fish, and sprinkle with minced parsley. 
 Cover with buttered paper, and bake in a mod- 
 erate oven for half an hour. Make a thick white 
 sauce (using the stock in which the fish is 
 cooked), and pour round, but not over the 
 cod; garnish with fried tomatoes and parsley. 
 
COD 
 
 116 
 
 COD 
 
 COD SOUND, BOILED. 
 
 Cod sounds are much liked by many persons, 
 and may always be procured salted. TEey are 
 convenient when kept in store in country houses, 
 though, on account of the necessary soaking, 
 they cannot be served in a hurry. Put them 
 into plenty of cold water, and let them remain 
 in it all night, then scrape and rub off the dark 
 skin with a cloth, wash them thoroughly, and 
 put them into a stewpan with equal parts of 
 milk and water, and boil them very gently until 
 tender. Be careful to remove the scum as it 
 rises. Serve them on a hot napkin, with egg 
 sauce. Time to boil, three-quarters of an hour. 
 Probable cost, 6d. per pound. One pound will 
 be enough for four persons. 
 
 COD SOUND, BROILED. 
 
 Prepare the sounds as in the preceding recipe. 
 Scrape them clean, and simmer for half an 
 hour ; rub them with butter, and dredge with 
 flour, Season' with salt and white pepper, and put 
 them oil thfe gridiron over a clear fire to broil. 
 Make half a pint of good melted butter, and 
 mix with it a tea-spoonful of mustard, a des- 
 sert-spoonful of soy, and a sprinkling of cayenne 
 pepper. Heat it, and pour it over the broiled 
 sounds. Time, about forty minutes. Probable 
 cost, 6d. per pound. Sufficient, a, quarter of a 
 pound for each person. 
 
 COD SOUND, FRICASSEED. 
 
 Soak, scrape, and boil as many cod sounds 
 as may be required. Drain them, and put them 
 into a stewpan with sufficient white stock to 
 cover thein ; season the sauce with salt, pepper, 
 and powdered mace, thicken it with a lump of 
 butter rolled in flour, and, just before serving 
 it, squeeze in the juice of a lemon. Serve with 
 toasted sippets. Time to boil, half an hour. 
 Sufficient, a quarter of a pound for each person. 
 Probable cost, 6d. per pound. 
 
 COD SOUND PIE. 
 
 Take equal weights of boiled cod sounds, hard- 
 boiled eggs, and boiled cod. Place these in- 
 gredients in layers in a deep pie-dish, season 
 them with pepper, salt, and powdered mace, 
 and pour some good oyster sauce over all. 
 Cover with a good crust, and bake the pie in a 
 moderate oven. It may be used either hot or 
 cold. Probable cost of sounds, 6d. per pound. 
 Time, three-quarters of an hour for a moderate- 
 sized pie. 
 
 COO, SPICED. 
 
 Boil four pounds of middle cut of cod, and set 
 it aside. Pour into a stewrpan a pint of the 
 water in which it was boiled, add three-quarters 
 of a pint of vinegar, a quarter of an ounce of 
 allspice, a quarter of an ounce of whole pepper, 
 six cloves, two bay-leaves, and half a dessert- 
 spoonful of salt, and let the liquid simmer for 
 an hour. Skim it, add the butter, and boil. 
 Place the cod in a narrow dish, deep enough to 
 allow of the fish being submerged in the liquor, 
 which must now be poured over it. Leave it till 
 next day. Serve it cold with lettiice hearts and 
 a good mayonnaise sauce. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 
 COD, STEWED. 
 
 The tail of a cod is sometimes boiled like the 
 rest of the fish, but it rarely proves a satis- 
 
 factory dish, and is much better stewed or fried. 
 Cut three pounds of cod into slices about an 
 inch and a half in thickness, and fry these 
 lightly in butter, or good dripping. Drain 
 them from the fat; and put the slices into a 
 stewpan with a pint of good stock, as much 
 pounded mace as would lie on a fourpenny 
 piece, and a pinch of cayenne; add three ounces 
 of butter rubbed smoothly with a table-spoon- 
 ful of flour, a dessert-spoonful of anchovy 
 essence, a glass of sherry, and the juice of half a 
 small lemon. Simmer for eight minutes, then 
 add a dozen and a half oysters chopped small, 
 with their liquor. Simmer two minutes more. 
 Place the slices of cod on a hot dish, pour the 
 sauce over, and serve immediately. Time, about 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost of cod, when in 
 season, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 COD AND MACARONI. 
 
 Break the remains of cold cod into small 
 pieces, having first removed the skin and bones. 
 Take macaroni to the weight of the fish, and 
 boil it until tender ; drain, and cut into short 
 lengths of an equal size. Make a, little good 
 melted butter, allowing a pint for a pound of' 
 cod and a pound of macaroni ; season it with 
 salt, cayenne, and the juice of a lemon; let it 
 boil, draw it from the fire, and add the well- 
 beaten yolk of an egg. Put the cod and macar- 
 oni with the sauce, and when they are quite hot, 
 put the whole into a hot dish. The sauce must 
 not boil after the egg is put in. Cover the mix- 
 ture with grated bread-crumbs, and brown the 
 top with a salamander or in a brisk oven. Time, 
 one hour. 
 
 COD AND PARMESAN CHEESE. 
 
 Take the remains of cold cod, remove the skin 
 and bones, and break the fiesh into convenient- 
 sized but not very small pieces. Make a little 
 good white sauce, warm the portions of cod in it, 
 drain them, and dip each in beaten egg, bread- 
 crumbs, and Parmesan cheese. Thicken the 
 gravy with a little arrowroot or fine flour ; keep 
 it hot in the saucepan. Pry the pieces of fish 
 in some hot butter until lightly browned, pour 
 the sauce over them, and serve the whole as hot 
 as possible. Time to fry, eight or ten minutes. 
 Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the cold fish. 
 Sufficient, one pound and a half of fish for four 
 or five persons. 
 
 COD, WITH MASHED POTATOES. 
 
 Take the remains of cold cod and the same 
 weight in mashed potatoes, remove the skin and 
 bones from the fish, to every pound of which 
 allow one tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoon- 
 ful of white pepper, and one or two grains of 
 cayenne ; pound all together to a smooth paste, 
 with a little butter, oil, or cream. Place the mix- 
 ture in a well-buttered dish, roughen the top vrith 
 a fork, and bake it in a moderate oven. Time to 
 bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost for cod, 8d. 
 per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 CODLING SOUP. 
 
 Take two or three codlings, remove the flesh 
 from the bones, and put them, with the heads, 
 into three quarts of good veal stock; add a 
 bunch of savoury herbs and a large onion stuck 
 with three cloves. Simmer the soup gently for 
 two hours, then strain it, return it to the stew- 
 
COD 
 
 147 
 
 COF 
 
 pan, and thicken it with a lump of butter rolled 
 in flour. Put the slices of flsh into the soup, 
 ■with a glass of sherry, a tea-spoonful of salt, 
 ialf a tea-spoonful of pepper, and two grains of 
 cayenne. Simmer for twenty minutes, then 
 serve at once. A dozen oysters, with their 
 liquor, is an improvement to the soup. Prob- 
 able cost, lOd. per ^uart, exclusive of the wine 
 and oysters. Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 CODLINGS, SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Cod and codlings should be sent to table with 
 oyster sauce and good melted butter. The 
 mielted butter should be of the consistency of 
 light batter, as it has to be flavoured either with 
 essence of anchovy, lemon-juice, chilli vinegar, 
 or mushroom ketchup. A good sauce for boiled 
 cod is made as follows. Simmer very gently 
 together, for half an hour, a cupful of water, a 
 cupful of vinegar, two shallots, and a tea-spoon- 
 ful of the essence of anchovies. Strain the 
 liquid, and add two table-spoonfuls of good 
 cream, and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. 
 The sauce must not be^llowed to boil up after 
 the eggs are added. 
 
 CODLINGS, TO DRESS. 
 
 Codlings may be either baked, boiled, or fried. 
 To hahe them,,: Flour the fish, salt and pepper it, 
 and lay it in a pan with a little cold water, an 
 onion stuck with four or fiye cloves, and a bunch 
 of sweet herbs. Put a piece of butter on the 
 top, and bake, it in a moderate oven. When 
 sufficiently cooked, take out the fish carefully, 
 strain the gravy, thicken" it with a little flour, 
 and add a tea-spoonful of the essence of ancho- 
 vies and two table-spoonfuls of Harvey's sauce. 
 liBt it boil, pour it round the fish, and garnish 
 ■with slices of lemon. To boil: piit the fish into 
 boiling water, and let them boil very gently 
 until the flesh leaves the bone easily. Serve with 
 parsley or anchovy sauce. To fry: Rub the 
 codlings with flour, then brush them well with 
 egg, dip them in bread-crumbs, and fry them in 
 plenty of hot lard or dripping. When a thick 
 smoke rises from them they will be ready. Drain 
 them from the fat, and serve with shrimp or 
 oyster sauce. Time : to bake, three-quarters of 
 an hour ; to boil, a quarter of an hour ; to fry, 
 ten minutes. Sufficient, one codling for two 
 persons. Probable cost, 8d. or Is. each. 
 
 COFFEE. 
 
 This beverage, which is so highly esteemed on 
 the Continent, is often made so badly that it 
 loses its delicious aroma and invigorating quali- 
 ties, and produces only nausea and indigestion. 
 There are numberless recipes for making it, and 
 everyone considers his plan the best, but surely 
 it is proved that some , enlightenment on this 
 subject is necessary, when a cup of really good 
 coffee is a most difficult article to obtain, and 
 "the quality of that which is commonly drunk in 
 ■this country is very inferior. The first thing to 
 be attended to is to have the material good. 
 The best plan is to buy a large quantity raw, 
 and to keep- it for some time before using it, 
 roasting a little as it is required, as the quality 
 of the berry improves with keeping. This, how- 
 ever, is not convenient in many houses, and 
 therefore in ordinary circumstances it is quite 
 as satisfactory and much less troublesome to 
 buy the berries already roasted of some first- 
 
 class dealer. Though not always roasted, how- 
 ever, the coffee should always be ground at 
 home, immediately before it is wanted. When 
 once the berry is ground, the aroma quickly 
 escapes. The berries should be put into the 
 oven for a short time to warm before they are 
 ground. Besides being particular about the 
 quality of their coffee, Englishmen have to learn 
 not to be sparing of the quantity. The Contin- 
 ental allowance is a cupful of freshly-ground 
 coffee for three cupfuls of liquid. This may, of 
 course, be considered extravagant and unneces- 
 sary, but one thing is certain, if the coffee is not 
 strong the aroma is lost. The finest sugar 
 should always be served with coffee, and boiling 
 milk or cream as well as cold. When, for pur- 
 poses of economy, a cheap coffee is purchased, 
 the flavour may be improved by the addition of 
 a small ' quantity of chicory, but it should be 
 bought separately, and mixed at home, and not 
 more than two ounces of chicory powder put 
 with one pound of coffee. The effect of chicory 
 is to impart a slight bitterness to the coffee, and 
 to darken its colour, and it is considered by 
 many persons an improvement when added in 
 the right proportion. 
 COFFEE AND MILK. 
 
 (&e ' CAFi AU Lait.) 
 COFFEE, BLACK. 
 
 (See Cafe Noir.) 
 
 COFFEE, BREAKFAST. 
 
 Coffee is best when made in china or porce- 
 lain cafetieres. Take freshly roasted berries, 
 grind them at the last moment, place the powder 
 upon the perforated bottom of the upper com- 
 partment, put the strainer on it, and pour boil- 
 ing water in gradually. Coffee thus made -will be 
 clear, bright, and full of flavour. When a cafe- 
 tiere cannot be had, proceed as follows. Fit a 
 small muslin bag inside the top of the coffee- 
 pot. Pour a little boiling water through this, 
 and, when the pot is hot, pour it off, and put the 
 coffee into the bag. Pour boiling water gradu- 
 ally over it, and when it is all drained through 
 remove the bag and send the liquid to table. li ■ 
 should be remembered that the water must be 
 poured on a little at a time, or the strength of 
 the powder will not be thoroughly extracted. 
 When it can be done, coffee should be sent to 
 table in the same pot in which it was made, as 
 this will prevent its getting cool ; and coffee for 
 breakfast is nothing to speak of if it is not hot. 
 Time, two or three minutes. Probable cost. 
 Mocha coffee, 3s. per pound. Sufficient, allow a 
 heaped table-spoonful of freshly-ground coffee 
 for every breakfast-cupful of boiling water. 
 
 COFFEE, BURNT (the French "Gloria"). 
 
 This coffee should be served in small cups, 
 and be made as strong and clear as possible, and 
 sweetened almost to a syrup. At the last mo-* 
 ment a little brandy should be poured gently 
 over it with a spoon, fire set to it, and when the 
 spirit is partly consumed, the flame blown out, 
 and the coffee drunk quite hot. Allow a cupful 
 for each person. Probable cost, 6d. per cup. 
 
 COFFEE CREAM. 
 
 Make a breakfast-cupful of strong, clear 
 coffee; add half a pint of boiling cream to it; 
 beat them well together; sweeten with two 
 
COF 
 
 148 
 
 COL 
 
 table-spoonfuls of sugar, and, when cool, add a 
 small pinch of salt, the well-beaten yolks of six 
 eggs, and the whites of two. Stir the mixture 
 over the fire for a few minutes, to thicken it, 
 pour it into glasses, and serve with a little 
 sifted sugar on the top of each glass. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 6d. for this quantity. Sufficient 
 for six or eight persons. 
 
 COFFEE CUSTARD. 
 
 Mix thoroughly a cupful of strong, clear coffee, 
 with four times the quantity of boiling milk, 
 three table-spoonfuls of finely-sifted sugar, and 
 a good pinch of salt ; mix in very gradually the 
 yolks of five eggs, well beaten. Stir the custard 
 over a moderate fire until it thickens, pour it 
 into cups, and serve cold. Sufficient for six 
 persons. Probable cost. Is. for this quantity. 
 
 COFFEE, ESSENCE OF, TO PREPARE. 
 
 Pour a breakfast-cupful of boiling milk over a 
 dessert-spoonful of the essence of coffee, and stir 
 the mixture until it is smoothly blended. It is a 
 good plan to keep the essence of coffee in the 
 house when anyone is in the habit of leaving 
 early in the morning. With it a comforting 
 cup of coffee may be made with very little 
 trouble in a short time. Sufficient, three des- 
 sert-spoonfuls for a breakfast-cupful. Probable 
 cost. Is. lOd. per pint bottle. 
 
 COFFEE (French method). 
 
 Pour a pint of boiling water upon two and a 
 half ounces of freshly-ground coffee. Put the 
 lid on the coffee-pot, and place it on the hob to 
 simmer gently without boiling. Stir it occa- 
 sionally, and at the end of two hours take it off 
 the fire, and let it stand for a quarter of an hour 
 to clear. Pour the coffee into the cups, and 
 serve with milk and sugar. Probable cost, 28. 
 per pound. Sufficient, two and a half ounces 
 for one pint of coffee. 
 
 COFFEE, ICE CREAM. 
 
 , Mix a breakfast-cupful of strong clear coffee 
 with another one of boiling milk, six table- 
 spoonfuls of finely-sifted sugar, and the yolks of 
 SIX eggs. Stir the custard over a moderate fire 
 until it thickens, then add a pint of thick cream. 
 Stir it again over the fire till the cream coats 
 the spoon, but do not let it boil. When cold pour 
 it into a mould, and freeze in the usual way. 
 
 COFFEE JELLY. 
 
 Pour a pint of boiling milk through a muslin 
 bag containing three ounces of freshly-ground 
 coffee. Put one ounce and a half of soaked 
 gelatine into a saucepan with a pint of cold milk, 
 ah inch of stick cinnamon, and two table-spoon- 
 fuls of sugar. Let it boil, and stir it until the 
 gelatine is dissolved. Mix the yolks of two eggs 
 with the coffee, strain the milk and gelatine 
 upon it, pour it into a mould which has been im- 
 mersed in cold water, and let it remain in a cool 
 place until stiff. It will stiffen in about twenty- 
 four hours. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient 
 for rather more than a quart of jelly. 
 
 COFFEE, TO GRIND. 
 
 Coffee should not be ground too finely, or it 
 will be difficult to make the liquid clear. It 
 ought to be ground immediately before it is 
 used. Nothing so soon loses its flavour as coffee 
 when it is powdered, and especially if it is left 
 
 uncovered. If chicory is added, two ounces 
 will be enough for one pound of coffee. Small 
 coffee mills for domestic use are sold everywhere. 
 Time to grind, a few minutes. 
 
 COFFEE, TO ROAST. 
 
 To roast coffee properly, a suitable apparatus, 
 which is made for the purpose, should be pur- 
 chased. There are two or three different kinds, 
 and the price varies, the cheapest being about 
 8s. Many persons, however, who have a pre- 
 judice in favour of roasting their own coffee, and 
 do not possess a " drum," use an iron saucepan 
 with a closely-fitting lid. If this is done, great 
 care will be required, or the coffee will either be 
 burnt, in which case the aroma will be destroyed, 
 or not sufficiently roasted, and then the flavour 
 will not be fully developed. It is a good plan 
 to wash the berries before roasting them ; it not 
 only cleanses them, but tests their quality. 
 Those which float on the top of the water are not 
 good. The berries must afterwards be care- 
 fully dried, both in a cloth and in the tin. To 
 roast them, put a little piece of perfectly fresh 
 sweet butter about the size of a walnut into the 
 pan with three pounds of berries. Place the 
 lid on, and shake the saucepan about continu- 
 ally, until a slight smoke arises. Then draw 
 the saucepan back, and stir the berries about 
 with a wooden spoon till they are lightly and 
 equally browned to the colour of cinnamon. 
 Spread them on a flat dish, and throw a thick 
 cloth over them. When quite cold put the 
 berries into dry bottles, and cork them closely. 
 It is a good plan to buy a large quantity of raw 
 berries, and roast two or three pounds as re- 
 quired. The coffee berry ought not to be 
 roasted until it is three years old, and it im- 
 pi:oves with keeping. The fire should be clear 
 and bright, but not fierce, or half a minute will 
 burn it. 
 
 COLANDER. 
 
 The colander is a basin with handles, and per- 
 forated holes at the bottom and sides. It is 
 used for straining vegetables, etc., and is 
 brought into daily use in almost every house- 
 hold. Colanders are made of tin, earthenware, 
 or enamelled iron. 
 
 COLBA CAKE. 
 
 Cream a, quarter of a pound of butter, and 
 add six ounces of sugar, sift in half a, poundl 
 of fine flour to which has been added a half- 
 tea-spoonful of baking powder. Beat up the 
 yolks of three eggs and the whites separately; 
 add the yolks, and to the whites put a tea- 
 spoonful of vanilla essence. Dissolve two ounces 
 of chocolate in three-quarters of a tea-cupful 
 of milk, and add to the cake whilst still warm ; 
 then stir in the whites. Bake for three-quarters 
 to one hour. 
 
 COLCANNON. 
 
 Boil separately e<jual weights of young cab- 
 bage, savoy, or spinach, and potatoes. Chop 
 the greens and mash the potatoes, and mix them 
 well together with a little pepper and salt, and 
 one ounce of butter to one pound of the mixed 
 vegetables. Heat the mixture over the fire for 
 a few minutes, stirring it all the time; then 
 press it into a hot, well-buttered mould. Turn 
 out and serve. Or, press it after mixing into a 
 
COL 
 
 149 
 
 COL 
 
 well-buttered mould, and put it into tlie oven 
 for half an hour. Turn out and serve. Cold 
 vegetables may be warmed up in this way. 
 Probable cost, 6d. for a pint mould. Sufficient 
 for three or four persons. 
 
 COLLARED MEAT. 
 
 To collar meat is to preserve it so that it will 
 keep much longer than when fresh. It is well 
 seasoned, sliced, pickled, and rolled. Meat thus 
 prepared makes a nice breakfast or luncheon 
 dish. It should be kept in a cool place in a 
 mould with a weight upon it. Calf's head, pig's 
 head, veal, beef, tongues, and fish can all be 
 prepared in this way, and are generally highly 
 approved. 
 
 COLLEGE PUDDING, BAKED. 
 
 Blanch and pound four ounces of sweet and 
 half a dozen bitter almonds. Mix them with 
 six table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar, and a quarter 
 of a pound of sweet butter. Beat all well to- 
 gether, then add the yolks of six and the whites 
 of three eggs, and a wine-glassful of brandy. 
 When well beaten, pour the mixture into a pie- 
 dish over a layer, about an inch thick, of apri- 
 cot or any other jam. Bake in a good oven. If 
 preferred, the dish may be lined with a good 
 puff paste before laying in the jam. Time to 
 bake, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 2s. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 COLLEGE PUDDINGS (smalf). , 
 
 Shred six ounces of beef suet very finely, and 
 mix with it six ounces of well-washed currants, 
 six ounces of sifted sugar, half a pound of finely- 
 grated bread-crumbs, three table-spoonfuls of 
 sugar, a dessert-spoonful of chopped lemon-rind, 
 a quarter of a nutmeg grated, three eggs well 
 beaten, and two table-spoonfuls of brandy. 
 Porm the mixture into little puddings about the 
 size and shape of a large duck's egg. Roll them 
 in a little flour, and fry them, till lightly 
 browned, in plenty of lard or butter over a clear 
 but not too strong fire. Drain them from the 
 fat, and serve them, piled high on a hot napkin, 
 "with wine sauce. Time to fry, from twenty to 
 thirty minutes. Sufficient for eight puddingfs. 
 Probable cost, l^d. each. 
 
 COLLEGE PUDDINGS, BAKED (small). 
 
 These puddings, which are generally served 
 fried, as in the previous recipe, are much nicer 
 baked. When this is done, they should have 
 another egg, or a table-spoonful of milk added 
 to make them lighter. Pour the mixture into 
 ■well-buttered cups, and bake in a moderate oven 
 for about twenty minutes. Before serving, turn 
 the puddings out of the cups, and sift a little 
 pounded sugar over them. Probable cost, 
 Is. Id. Sufficient for eight puddings. 
 
 COLLOPS, BEEF. 
 
 Take two pounds of tender beef steak, and cut 
 it into rounds about three inches wide and three- 
 quarters of an inch thick. Dredge a little flour 
 o\er these, and fry them in hot butter or drip- 
 ping till they are lightly browned on both sides. 
 Put them into a stewpan with a pint of good 
 gravy, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful 
 of white pepper, a tea-spoonful of capers bruised, 
 a tea-spoonful of walnut ketchup, and two 
 pickled gherkins thinly sliced. Simmer gently 
 
 for ten or twelve minutes, and send to table as 
 hot as possible. Probable cost, beef. Is. Id. 
 per pound. Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 COLLOPS, BEEF, WITH ONIONS. 
 
 Prepare the meat as in the last recipe. Dredge 
 the collops with flour, and put them in the fry- 
 ing-pan with six or eight large onions cut into 
 rounds, and four ounces of butter, lard, or drip- 
 ping. Pepper them, and when they are browned, 
 cover the pan closely. Before serving, take out 
 the meat, put it on a hot dish, add half a cup- 
 ful of boiling water, and a table-spoonful of 
 ketchup to the onions. Boil up, and pour the 
 sauce round the meat. Time, twenty to thirty 
 minutes, or until the onions are tender. Prob- 
 able cost, beef. Is. Id. per pound. Sufficient for 
 four persons. 
 
 COLLOPS, MINCED, SCOTCH. 
 
 (See Beep Collops, Minced.) 
 
 COLLOPS, SAVOURY, MINCED. 
 
 Put two ounces of fresh butter into a stewpan, 
 and mix a table-spoonful of flour smoothly with 
 it; keep stirring the paste till it is lightly 
 browned, then add a little pepper and salt, a 
 tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a tea- 
 spoonful of savoury herbs, also half a pint of 
 boiling stock or water. When smooth and thick 
 stir in one pound of steak finely minced. Move 
 it about with a fork, to prevent its getting into 
 lumps, and when it is quite hot put the cover on 
 the pan, draw it back, and let the collops sim- 
 mer very gently for ten minutes ; before serv. 
 iug, add the juice of a small lemon, or a table- 
 spoonful of mushroom ketchup. Probable cost. 
 Is. Id. per pound. Sufficient, two pounds for 
 four persons. 
 
 COLLOPS, SAVOURY (to imitate Game). 
 
 Prepare collops as in the recipe for Collops, 
 Beef. After they are browned, put them into 
 a saucepan, cover them with good gravy, sea- 
 son rather lightly with salt and pepper, and 
 add a little pounded mace. Thicken tne gravy 
 by putting with it a lump of butter rolled in 
 flour, and simmer the collops gently for three- 
 quarters of an hour. Before serving, take out 
 the meat, put it on a hot dish, and pour a table- 
 spoonful of mushroom ketchup and a wine-glass 
 of port into the gravy. Let it boil, then pour it 
 over the meat. Send red currant jelly to table 
 with the meat. Probable cost. Is. Id. per 
 pound. Sufficient, two pounds for four persons. 
 
 COLLOPS, SCOTCH. 
 
 Cold meat as well as fresh meat may be used 
 for collops. Cut some pieces from the fillet of 
 veal about two inches wide and half an inch 
 thick, and sprinkle over them some salt, white 
 pepper, and pounded mace. Pry them in some 
 hot butter or lard till they are lightly browned, 
 then lay them in a stewpan, dredge some flour 
 thickly over them, and add as much good stock 
 as will cover the veal. Put it on the fire, bring 
 it to a boil, skim carefully, and simmer it gently 
 for three-quarters of an hour. Take out the 
 meat, lay it on a hot dish, add to the gravy the 
 juice of a lemon, a table-spoonful of, mushroom 
 ketchup, a glass of claret, and two or three 
 grains of cayenne; boil the sauce once more, 
 pour it over the meat, and serve. Probable cost. 
 
COL 
 
 150 
 
 CON 
 
 6d., excluBive of the cold meat. Suficient, two 
 pounds for five persons. 
 
 COLLOPS, SCOTCH, WHITE. 
 
 Prepare the veal as in the last recipe. Fry it 
 in bacon-fat if it can be had, if not, in butter, 
 lard, or good dripping. When lightly browned, 
 put it into a stewpan, cover it with good veal 
 stock, thicken this with a lump of butter rolled 
 in flour, and add a cupful of cream and a glass 
 of sherry. Simmer gently for twenty minutes in 
 the gravy. Place the meat on a hot dish, and 
 pour the gravy over it. Time, five minutes lo 
 fry the coUops. Sufficient, two pounds for five 
 persons. Probable cost, lOd., exclusive of the 
 cold meat. 
 
 COLOURING. 
 
 Brown. — It is a very usual practice with com- 
 mon cooks to make the brown colouring as it is 
 wanted by burning a little sugar in an iron 
 spoon, and stirring it into the soup or sauce. 
 By this means the flavour is almost sure to be 
 spoilt. Much the better plan is to make a little 
 browning, and keep it stored for use. It will 
 keep for years. Proceed as follows: — Crush a 
 quarter of a pound of loaf sugar to powder, put 
 it into a saucepan with a table-spoonful of 
 water, and stir it unceasingly over a gentle fire, 
 with a wooden spoon, until it begins to acquire 
 a little colour. Draw it back and bake it very 
 slowly, still stirring it, until it is almost black, 
 without being in the least burnt. It will take 
 about half an hour. Pour a quart of water over 
 it, let it boil for a few minutes until the sugar 
 is quite dissolved, pour it out, and when cold 
 strain it into a bottle, and store it for use. A 
 table-spoonful of this browning will colour half 
 a pint of liquid, and there will be no danger of 
 an unpleasant taste being given to the sauce, 
 etc. The addition of a, little claret or mush- 
 room ketchup will often impart as much colour- 
 ing to sauces as is required. When it is wished 
 to thicken the sauce as well as colour it, brown 
 thickening should be used. Green. — Pound 
 some young spinach or beet-leaves. Press out 
 the juice and put it in a cup. Place this cup in 
 a saucepan of boiling water and let it simmer 
 gently, to take off the raw taste of the juice. 
 Before using it, mix with it a little finely-sifted 
 sugar. Bed. — Two or three drops of cochineal 
 will impart a beautiful red or pink colouring. 
 It can be made at home, and will not cost nearly 
 so much as if bought at the shops. White. — Use 
 pounded almonds, arrowroot, or cream. Yellow. 
 — For a clear yellow, dissolve orange or lemon 
 jelly. For an opaque, pound the yolks' of eggs, 
 and mix it with the liquid ; or, add a little 
 saffron ; or, 5oak the flowers of the crocus, which 
 will not taste. 
 
 COMPdTCS, SYRUP FOR.. 
 
 I The quantity of sugar used for the syrup in 
 compotes must depend upon the acidity of the 
 fruit. For rhubarb, green gooseberries, early 
 apples, etc., we should recommend ten ounces 
 of loaf sugar to be boiled gently with half a 
 pint of water for ten minutes. One pound of 
 fruit must then be put in and boiled gently until 
 it is sufficiently cooked. Lift the fruit into a 
 deep glass dish, pour the syrup round it, and 
 serve. For apricots, plums, strawberries, and 
 cherries, six ounces of sugar will be sufficient. 
 
 Exact directions can scarcely be given, as the 
 degree of ripeness which the fruit has attained, 
 and the state of the weather when it was gath- 
 ered, must be considered in deciding what quan- 
 tity of sugar should be used ; but we can assure 
 those who have not been accustomed to serve 
 fruit in this way that it is most delicious and 
 wholesome. The flavour of the fruit is preserved, 
 and a compote is always an elegant and agree- 
 able addition to the table. Generally speaking, 
 the larger the amount of sugar used the clearer 
 will be the syrup, and the longer it will keep. 
 It should be broken into lumps, not crushed to 
 powder. 
 
 CONGER EEL. 
 
 The conger is comparatively little used in 
 cookery, though its flesh is wholesome and 
 nourishing, and by no means unpalatable. 
 When caught, it is generally wasted, an incom- 
 prehensible prejudice existing against it. It may 
 be cooked in several ways, and the recipes which 
 are given for cod may be used for it. The 
 head and tail are the best for soup, and the 
 middle may be boiled, stewed, cut into slices 
 and baked, fried, or made into pies. 
 
 CONGER EEL, BAKED. 
 
 Take a piece of conger eel weighing about two 
 pounds, wash it thoroughly, and stuff it with a 
 good forcemeat made with four parts of bread- 
 crumbs to one of chopped parsley, a pinch of 
 thyme, a little pepper, salt, and pounded mace, 
 a small piece of butter, and the yolk of an egg. 
 Bind the fish securely with string or tape, and 
 put it into a deep dish with a little water. 
 Dredge flour plentifully over it, place little lumps 
 of butter on the top, and bake it in a good oven. 
 Baste it often. When sufficiently cooked, take 
 if out, thicken the gravy, and make it into any 
 sauce you may like. Stewed tomatoes are very 
 good served with it. Time, one hour. Prob- 
 able cost, 3d. per pound. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. 
 
 CONGER EEL, BOILED. 
 
 Take a piece about twelve inches long from 
 the thick part of a fine conger, tie it round with 
 string, and put it into a stewpan with sufficient 
 boiling water to cover it, add two tea-spoonfuls 
 of salt, one of pepper, a breakfast-cupful of 
 vinegar, a bunch of savoury herbs, and about 
 two ounces of butter or dripping. Let it boil, 
 then draw it to the side of the fire, and l«t it 
 simmer gently for half an hour. Drain, and 
 serve on a hot napkin. Send melted butter to 
 table with it. Time, forty minutes. Probable 
 cost, 3d. per pound. Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 CONGER EEL, FRIED. 
 
 Cleanse the fish thoroughly. Cut it into thick 
 slices, and brush each slice over with beaten 
 egg, then strew over them finely-grated bread- 
 crumbs. Fry them in plenty of hot lard or 
 dripping till they are brightly browned on both 
 sides, and the flesh leaves the bone easily. When 
 sufficiently cooked, lay them on blotting-paper 
 to take off the fat; put them on a hot dish, 
 squeeze the juice of a lemon over them, and 
 serve with shrimp, oyster, tomato, or anchovy 
 sauce. Time to fry, about twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost, 3d. per pound. Sufficient, two 
 pounds for four or five persons. 
 
CON 
 
 151 
 
 COR 
 
 CONGER EEL PIE. 
 
 Eemove the skin and bone from two pounds 
 of the middle of a conger. Cut it into pieces one 
 inch and a half square, strew salt, pepper, and 
 pounded mace rather plentifully over each piece, 
 and put a layer at the bottom of a deep pie- 
 dish. Fill the dish with alternate layers of 
 oysters and pieces of fish. Pour over it 
 some strong gravy made of the bones of 
 the fish, and the liquor of the oysters boiled in 
 good stock, cover wuh a good crust, and bake in 
 a moderate oven. Time to bake, one hour and a 
 quarter. Probable cost ; conger, 3d. to 6d. per 
 pound; oysters. Is. per dozen. Sufficient, a pie 
 made with two pounds of conger and a tin of 
 oysters, for six persons. 
 
 CONGER EEL, ROASTED. 
 
 Take a piece from the middle of a' large con- 
 ger eel, about twelve inches in length, clean it 
 without opening. Make a forcemeat of bread- 
 crumbs, shredded suet, parsley, lemon-thyme, 
 pepper, and salt; bind with an egg and stuff 
 the eel full, securing both ends with a buttered 
 paper. Dredge it with flour, and baste fre- 
 quently; throw a tumbler of cider into the 
 dripping-pan, or, if cider is not to be had, 
 a small quantity of vinegar. When ialf done, 
 change the end by which it hangs, and continue 
 to baste till quite done. It may be baked in an 
 oven, but is more liable in that case to be dry 
 and overdone. Time,, about one hour. Prob- 
 able cost, 3d. to 6d. per pound. 
 
 CONGER EEL SOUP. 
 
 Put a bunch of savoury herbs into a sauce- 
 pan, with a large carrot sliced, two large onions 
 sliced, and two bay-leaves. Fry them to a 
 light brown, then add four quarts of water. Let 
 it boil, skim it well, season it with one ounce 
 of salt, and half an ounce of pepper, and put 
 into it five pounds of the head and tail part of a 
 conger eel. Simmer gently and continuously 
 for two hours, strain the soup, and put with it a 
 pint of green peas. A few minutes before it is 
 served, put in a pint of new milk. Time, three 
 hours. Probable cost of conger, 3d. to 6d. per 
 pound. Sufficient for five pints of soup. 
 
 CONSOMME. 
 
 Consomme is the term applied to the clarified 
 liquor in which meat or poultry or both have been 
 boiled, but it is applied generally to any strong 
 clear gravy soup. The following is a good recipe 
 for its preparation. Wipe but do not wash two 
 pounds of lean beef. Cut it into small slices, 
 and fry them to a brown colour. Then divide the 
 slices into small pieces, and put them, along 
 with a chicken (also cleaned and cut into small 
 pieces) into a saucepan, along with a quarter of 
 a pound of lean ham and three quarts of cold 
 water. Let it slowly reach boiling point, and 
 simmer gently for six hours. When it has been 
 cooking three hours, fry a carrot, turnip, and 
 onion, all minced, together in a little butter 
 until they are brown, and put them with three 
 cloves, a table-spoonful of mixed sweet herbs, 
 three peppercorns, and a table-spoonful of 
 chopped celery into the soup. At the end of the 
 six hours, when the meat is in rags, strain the 
 .liquid into a china bowl, and set it away to 
 cool until all the fat rises and forms in a cake 
 
 on the top. It is a good plan to cool it over- 
 night when there is plenty of time. Every par- 
 ticle of fat must be removed, and it is not pos- 
 sible to do this unless the soup is cooled. To 
 clear consomme return it to the fire, and as soon 
 as it becomes liquid break into it two eggs, and 
 stir them in slowly until the soup begins to 
 steam and the albumen of the eggs is coagulated. 
 The coagulum will entangle all the insoluble 
 matter; then strain the liquid through a nap- 
 kin, salt it, and heat it just to the boiling-point, 
 when it is ready to serve. It should be per- 
 fectly clear, and of a golden-brown colour, like 
 sherry. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. 
 
 COOL CUP, A. 
 
 Rub five ounces of loaf sugar upon the rind of 
 a large, fresh lemon. Pour over it a bottle of 
 cider, the juice of the lemon, half a nutmeg 
 grated, and a tumblerful of sherry. Stir it until 
 the sugar is dissolved, and put on it a sprig of 
 borage, thyme, or mint. It will be better if 
 placed on ice for a little while. Time, a quarter 
 of an hour. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of 
 the cider and sherry. Sufficient for a one-quart 
 cup. 
 
 COOL CUP (another way). 
 
 Put a slice of hot toast, srd a quarter of a 
 pound of sugar into a large tankard. Pour over 
 these three table-spoonfuls of brandy, six of 
 sherry, and a pint of good ale. Lay a sprig of 
 balm or borage on the top, and let the liquid 
 stand for a little while. THme to stand, half an 
 hour. Probable cost, 2d., exclusive of the 
 liquids. Sufficient for a quart cup. 
 
 COOL CUP (another way). 
 
 Pare and core three large apples, slice them, 
 and also three large lemons, and lay them in a 
 deep basin in alternate layers, with sugar strewn 
 over each layer. Pour over them a bottle of 
 claret, cover the basin, and let it stand for four 
 hours. Strain the liquid and serve it with a 
 lump of ice in the cup. Probable cost, 8d., ex- 
 clusive of the claret. Sufficient for a pint cup. 
 
 COOL CUP (another v/ay). 
 
 Pour a pint of claret and a tumblerful of 
 water into a large cup. Mix with them two 
 table-spoonfuls of finely-sifted sugar, a salt- 
 spoonful of powdered cinnamon, a quarter of a 
 small nutmeg grated, and the thin rind of half 
 a small lemon. Put a sprig of borage or a little 
 cucumber-rind with it for two or three minutes 
 before using. Sufficient for a quart cup. Prob- 
 able cost, 3d., exclusive of the claret. 
 
 COOL CUP (another way). 
 
 Take three parts of good lemonade and one of 
 sherry or Madeira, add three or four lumps of 
 ice, and serve. 
 
 CORN-FLOUR BLANCMANGE. 
 
 Mix very smoothly four ounces of corn-fiour 
 with a little cold milk, pour over it a quart of 
 boiling milk, return it to the saucepan, and stir 
 it constantly. Let it remain on the fire for four 
 minutes after it comes to a boil. Sweeten and 
 flavour it. Pour it into a mould, and when 
 cold turn it out. Serve with it a compote of 
 any kind of fruit. Time, twenty minutes- 
 Probable cost) 6d.. exclusive of the fruit. 
 
COR 
 
 152 
 
 COR 
 
 CORN-FLOUR CREAM. 
 
 To two ounces of corn-flour add one pint of 
 milk, two ounces of pounded sugar, and a few 
 drops of vanilla. Stir the whole over the fire 
 for ten minutes, and pour it into custard-cups ; 
 strew ratafias over the surface, and serve hot. 
 
 CORN-FLOUR CUSTARD PUDDING. 
 
 Mix three ounces of corn-flour with one quart 
 of sweet milk, one or two eggs well beaten, a 
 little butter, and four table-spoonfuls of sugar. 
 Flavour to taste, and boil for eight minutes. 
 Pour it into a pie-dish, and brown it before the 
 fire. This is an. excellent dish. 
 CORN-FLOUR (for Children). 
 
 To two tea-spoonfuls of corn-flour, mixed with 
 two table-spoonfuls of cold water, add half a 
 pint of boiling milk ; boil for eight minutes, and 
 sweeten slightly. It should be, when warm, 
 about the thickness of cream. For children of 
 a year old and upwards, it may be prepared 
 wholly with milk, and thicker. For infants' 
 diet it is important that good sweet milk should 
 be used. 
 
 CORN-FLOUR FRUIT PIE. 
 
 Bake or stew any kind of fruit with sugar. 
 Put it into a pie-dish, and pour over it corn- 
 flour boiled with milk, in the proportion of four 
 ounces of flour to one quart of milk. Brown 
 before the fire. This makes a covering lighter and 
 more v/holesome than the ordinary pie-crust. 
 
 CORN-FLOUR FRUIT PUDDING. 
 
 Prepare a batter as for corn-flour blancmange, 
 boil it until smooth, and let it get cold. Fill a 
 dish with about two pounds of any kind of good 
 ripe fruit; stew these till soft with sugar, and 
 when cold place the corn-flour in the middle of 
 a dish, and pour the fruit over and round it. 
 Peeled and cored apples or pears may be used 
 for the same purpose. 
 
 CORN-FLOUR JELLY. 
 
 Mix in a tumbler a tea-spoonful of corn-flour 
 with a little cold water. Pour upon it sufficient 
 boiling water to form a clear jelly, stirring it 
 well during the time it is being poured on ; then 
 add a glass of sherry. 
 
 CORN-FLOUR OMELET. 
 
 Beat up two eggs, and mix them with one 
 table-spoonful of corn-flour, and a tea-cupful of 
 milk. Add a little sugar, and salt and pepper, 
 if desired. Put the whole into an omelet-pan, 
 previously well heated and covered with melted 
 butter; and move the pan constantly over the 
 fire. Turn the omelet several times, and double 
 it over. Cook it until it is lightly browned. 
 CORN-FLOUR PUDDING. 
 
 Boil a pint of milk with a little lemon-rind; 
 pour it upon three dessert-spoonfuls of corn-flour 
 mixed smoothly with a little cold milk or water, 
 add a well-beaten egg, and sweeten according 
 to taste. Pour the mixture into a well-buttered 
 pie-dish, and bake it from twenty to thirty 
 minutes. Probable cost, 5d. Sufficient for 
 three persons. 
 
 CORN-FLOUR PUDDING, BAKED. 
 
 Add three and a half ounces of corn-flour to 
 one quart of milk; boil for eight minutes, stir- 
 ring it briskly all the time. Allow it to cool. 
 
 and then mix thoroughly with it two eggs well 
 beaten, and three table-spoonfuls of sugar. 
 Flavour to taste, and bake for half an hour in a 
 moderate oven, or brown it before tie fire. 
 
 CORN-FLOUR SOUFFLE PUDDING. 
 
 Put six ounces of corn-flour into a saucepan, 
 with eight ounces of pounded sugar, and mix 
 both together with a quart of milk. Add four 
 ounces of fresh butter, a pinch of salt, and a few 
 drops of essence of vanilla. Stir briskly until it 
 boils, and then work in vigorously the beaten 
 yolks of six eggs. Whisk the whites of the eggs 
 to a firm froth, and incorporate them lightly 
 with the batter, which must then be poured 
 into a slightly-buttered pie-dish, and baked in 
 a moderate oven for about half an hour. 
 Sprinkle the top with powdered sugar, and send 
 to table quite hot. 
 
 CORN-FLOUR SPONGE CAKE. 
 
 Beat a quarter of a pound of butter to cream. 
 Add half a pound of white sugar, half a pound 
 of corn-flour, a dessert-spoonful of baking 
 powder, and four eggs. Bake in a quick oven. 
 
 CORNISH CUTLETS. 
 
 Take three-quarters of a pound of cold meat, 
 cut it into slices, put on a dish, and sprinkle 
 with salt, pepper, and parsley; pour over them 
 a table-spoonful of ketchup. Wash, peel, and 
 boil one pound of potatoes, rub them through 
 a sieve; beat up one egg and mix with the 
 mashed potatoes., season with pepper, salt, and a 
 little lemon-juice or grated nutmeg. Cover well 
 each slice with the mash, and shape and smooth 
 with a knife. Beat up another egg, dip each 
 slice in it, and bread-crumb well. When it is 
 set, repeat the process. Fry in hot fat to a 
 golden colour, drain on a cloth, and dish up 
 garnished with parsley. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 CORN-MEAL CAKE. 
 
 Mix together a pint of Indian meal, a tea- 
 cupful of sour cream, the same quantity of fresh 
 milk, half a cupful of treacle, one egg, a tea- 
 spoonful of carbonate of soda, half a tea-spoon- 
 ful of salt, and as much cinnamon, nutmeg, or 
 other spice as may be required to flavour the 
 cake. Butter a tin, pour the mixture into it, 
 and bake it in a moderate oven for from one hour 
 to one hour and a half. Probable cost. Is. Suf- 
 ficient for a good-sized cake. 
 
 CORN-MEAL PUDDING. 
 
 This dish, like pease pudding, is intended to 
 be eaten with hot meat and gravy. It is made 
 by stirring Indian meal into boiling water until 
 it is as thick and smooth as batter. It must be 
 beaten well over a slow fire for a few minutes, 
 and when it bubbles up it is done enough. 
 Time, twenty minutes. 
 
 CORN PUDDINGS, AMERICAN. 
 
 Put into a saucepan one pint of milk, the thin 
 rind of half a lemon, and a table-spoonful of 
 sugar ; let it boil, and stir into it by degrees four 
 table-spoonfuls of Indian flour. Keep on stir- 
 ring it for ten minutes or more, then turn it out 
 and let it cool. When quite cold, add three 
 well-beaten eggs, put the batter into buttered 
 cups, allow room for rising, and bake in a good 
 oven. Time to bake, half an hour. Sufiicient 
 for four or flv<> persons. Probable cost, 8d. 
 
COT 
 
 153 
 
 COW 
 
 COTTAGE BREAD PUDDING. 
 
 Take any criista of bread that may have been 
 left, and be sure that they are perfectly clean. 
 Put them into a saucepan with a pint and a half 
 of milk to one pound of bread. Simmer very 
 gently, and when the bread is quite soft, take it 
 from the fire and beat it well with a fork. Add 
 two table-spoonfuls of sugar, half a nutmeg 
 grated, a couple of ounces of finely-shredded 
 suet, or_ a piece of sweet dripping the size of a 
 large egg, three eggs well beaten, and a handful 
 of picked currants. Put the mixture into a well- 
 buttered pie-dish, and bake three-quarters of 
 an hour. Sufiicient for six persons. Probable 
 cost, 6d. 
 
 COTTAGE PLUM PUDDING. 
 
 Shred very finely three ounces of best beef 
 suet; add three ounces of flour, one tea-spoon- 
 ful of baking-powder, three ounces ot breadr 
 crumbs, two ounces of raisins, two ounces of 
 currants, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, half a 
 nutmeg grated, a tea-spoonful of chopped lemon- 
 rind, and two well-beaten eggs. Tie the mix- 
 ture in a floured cloth, and boil it for from two 
 hours and a half to three hours. Probable cost, 
 8d. Sufficient for a small family. 
 
 COTTAGE PLUM PUDDING (another way). 
 
 Mix thoroughly one pint of flour, half a pint 
 of sugar, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, 
 two tea-spoonfuls of cream of tartar, one tea- 
 spoonful of bicarbonate of soda, two ounces of 
 currants, and two ounces of stoned raisins. 
 Work the ingredients into a light paste with 
 two well-beaten eggs and half a pint of milk. 
 Pour the pudding into a well-buttered mould, 
 and bake it in a brisk oven. This pudding may 
 be eaten cold as plain cake. Time to bake, 
 about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 
 9d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 COTTAGE POTATO PUDDING. 
 
 Peel and boil two pounds of potatoes. Mash 
 them, and beat them to a smooth paste, with a 
 breakfast-cupful of milk, two table-spoonfuls of 
 sugar, and two well-beaten eggs. Add a hand- 
 ful of stoned and picked raisins, put the mixture 
 into a well-greased pie-dish, and bake it for 
 nearly an hour. If the milk is left out, and a 
 quarter of a pound of butter substituted, it will 
 make a nice cake. Sufficient for six persons. 
 Probable cost: pudding, 5d.; cake, 9d. 
 
 COTTAGE PUDDING (to use up crusts of Bread). 
 Pour a kettleful of boiling water upon some 
 pieces of stale bread, let them soak till quite 
 soft, drain off the water, and beat them well 
 with a fork. Take out any hard lumps that 
 will not soften, and add a large lump of butter 
 or dripping, or some finely-shredded suet, some 
 moist sugar, a handful of currants, and a little 
 grated nutmeg. Put the mixture into a well- 
 buttered pie-dish, and bake in a good oven. A 
 little jam may be eaten with this pudding, 
 which is generally a, favourite with children. 
 Time to bake, one hour and a half or two hours. 
 Probable cost, 2d. or 3d., exclusive of the stale 
 Iread. 
 
 COTTAGE SOUP. 
 
 Put three pounds of bones, broken into small 
 pieces, into a stewpan, with a heaped table- 
 
 spoonful of salt, a bunch of savoury herbs, a 
 pennyworth of bruised celery-seed tied in a 
 muslin bag, or two or three of the outer sticks 
 of a head of celery, and four quarts of cold 
 water. When the liquid boils, skim it, draw it 
 to the side of the fire, and let it simmer very 
 gently but continuously for three or four hours. 
 Strain it, and put the fat into a frying-pan, with 
 two onions sliced, and a carrot and turnip cut 
 into dice. Fry these till lightly browned, put 
 them with the soup, and boil it up again with a 
 tea-spoonful of moist sugar, and half a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper. Thicken it with four ounces 
 of either oatmeal or prepared barley, taking 
 oare to mix them smoothly with a little cold 
 water before putting them with the rest of the 
 soup. Wash half a pound of rice, put it with the 
 soup, boil it until tender, and serve. A littie 
 powdered mint should be sent to table with the 
 soup, to be used or not, according to taste. 
 Probable cost, 3d. per quart. Sufficient for three 
 quarts. 
 
 COTTAGE SOUP (another way). , . 
 
 Put a large lump of dripping the size of a 
 turkey's egg into a stewpan, with half a pound 
 of fresh beef cut into small pieces, two large 
 turnips, two large carrots, and two leeks, all 
 finely sliced. Place them over a clear fire, and 
 move them about for eight or ten minutes, until 
 half cooked. Add, a little at a time, two cupfuls 
 of cold water and half a pound of rice. Boil for 
 five or six minutes, then add four quarts of hot 
 water, two table-spoonfuls of salt, and a dessert- 
 spoonful of pepper. Boil once more, skim the 
 soup well, then draw it to the side of the fire, 
 and simmer it gently but continuously for three 
 hours. Serve a little powdered mint with it, to 
 be used or not, according to taste. Sufficient 
 for three quarts. Probable cost, 4d. per quart. 
 
 COURT BOUILLON (with wine) 
 
 Take one part of vinegar, one of red wine, 
 and four of water; put them into a saucepan, 
 and for every three quarts of liquid allow half an 
 ounce of pepper, one ounce of salt, a bunch of 
 savoury herbs, two bay-leaves, one sliced onion, 
 and one sliced carrot. Simmer for an hour, 
 strain the liquid, and it will be ready for use. 
 Court bouillon is used to boil fresh-water fish, 
 to take off its insipidity. The quantity must de- 
 pend upon the size of the fish, which ought to be 
 well covered. When it is once made, however, 
 it will keep for a long time if it is boiled up 
 every three days, and diluted every time with 
 one breakfast-cupful of water. If this is not 
 done, it will become too strong and concen- 
 trated. Oil and vinegar is the only sauce that 
 is eaten with fish boiled in court bouillon, and 
 served cold. The wine may be omitted. Prob- 
 able cost, exclusive of the wine, 6d. Sufficient 
 for two quarts and a half. 
 
 COW-HEEL (au naturel\ 
 
 This dish, which is delicious as well as nourish- 
 ing when properly cooked, may be served in 
 several different ways. It should first of all be 
 thoroughly scalded and cleansed, and the fat 
 between the claws removed. This is often 
 already done when the heel is bought at a tripe 
 shop. (Ask for one which has been scalded, not 
 boiled, or nearly all the nourishment will be 
 
cow 
 
 154 
 
 CRA 
 
 gone from it.) Cut a cow-heel into four parts, 
 and put them into a saucepan, cover them with 
 cold water, and simmer them gently for four 
 hours ; take them up, remove the bones, thicken 
 the gravy with a piece of butter rolled in flour, 
 and put with it a table-spoonful of scalded and 
 chopped parsley, and the juice of half a lemon. 
 Season with salt and pepper, boil all together 
 again for a few minutes, and serve hot. If 
 there is more liquid than will be required for 
 sauce, it should be preserved, and will be found 
 excellent for sauces and soups. Probable cost 
 of cow-heel, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient, one 
 heel for a small family. 
 
 COW-HEEL (for invalids). 
 
 Take a fresh cow-heel, cleanse and scald it, 
 and remove the fat from between the claws. 
 Do not have one already boiled at the tripe 
 shop, as was said in the last recipe, or it will 
 not be so nourishing. Put it into a saucepan 
 with one pint and a half of cold water, and 
 add a salt-spoonful of salt, a salt-spoonful of 
 fresh mustard, a salt-spoonful of sifted sugar, 
 and a pinch of pepper. Bring it slowly to a 
 boil, skim it well, and simmer it gently for four 
 hours. Just before serving, thicken the gravy 
 with a tea-spoonful of arrowroot mixed smoothly 
 with a little cold water; add a wine-glassful of 
 sherry, and serve immediately. Probable cost 
 of cow-heel, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient for two 
 or three persons. 
 
 COW-HEEL, FRIED. 
 
 Prepare a cow-heel as before; simmer it 
 gently for three hours, drain it, remove the 
 bones, and cut it into convenient-sized pieces, 
 about one inch and a half long. Mix some 
 bread-crumbs with a little chopped parsley, salt, 
 cayenne, and finely-shredded lemon-rind. Dip the 
 pieces in beaten egg, then in the bread-crumbs, 
 and fry them in hot butter or dripping till 
 brightly browned. Put them on a hot dish, and. 
 pour over them some good melted butter 
 flavoured with lemon-juice. Probable cost of 
 cow-heel, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient, one heel 
 for two or three persons. 
 
 COW-HEEL, FRIED, WITH ONIONS. 
 
 Boil a cow-heel as in the last recipe; take it 
 up, remove the bones, and put the meat away 
 to get cold ; then cut it into nice pieces, about a 
 quarter of an inch in thickness and one inch and 
 a half square. Cut about the same number of 
 slices of Spanish onion, fry these and keep 
 them hot. Dip the slices of heel in frying 
 batter, and fry them in plenty of boiling fat 
 till brightly browned. Serve very hot. The 
 onions must be turned about until they are 
 sufficiently cooked. They will require a few 
 minutes more than the meat. Time : three 
 hours to boil the heel ; about twenty minutes 
 to fry it and the onions. Probable cost of cow- 
 heel, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient for two or three 
 persons. 
 
 COW-HEEL STOCK FOR JELLY. 
 
 Cow-heels may be substituted for calf's feet 
 in making stock for jelly. It is best to stew the 
 heels the day before you want to make the 
 jelly, so that the broth may get cold, and be 
 more thoroughly freed from fat and sediment. 
 Buy two heels that have been well cleansed and 
 
 scalded, but not boiled. Divide them into four, 
 and pour over them three quarts of cold water, 
 bring them slowly to a boil, skim the liquid 
 carefully, and simmer it gently for seven hours, 
 or until it is reduced to three pints. After this, 
 proceed exactly as with stock made from calf's 
 feet. If there is any doubt about the firmness 
 of the jelly, an ounce of isinglass may be 
 added. Cow-heels are cheaper than calf's feet, 
 and quite as nourishing, though perhaps a trifle 
 stronger in flavour. Probable cost; 4d. to 8d. 
 each. Sufficient, two heels for three pints of stock. 
 
 COWSLIP PUDDING. 
 
 Take two quarts of cowslip pips, pound them 
 small, with half a pound of sweet biscuits, 
 grated, and three pints of cream. Boil these 
 together ; then beat up ten eggs with a little 
 cream and rose-water; sweeten to taste. Mix 
 ,all well together; butter a dish, pour in the 
 mixture, sprinkle a little fine sugar over all, 
 and put into the oven. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 
 COWSLIP WINE. 
 
 Allow three pounds of loaf sugar, the rind of 
 an orange and a lemon, and the strained juice 
 of a lemon to every gallon of water. Boil the 
 sugar and water together for half an hour. 
 Skini it carefully, then pour it over the rind and 
 juice. Let it stand until new-milk warm, add 
 four quarts of cowslip pips or flowers, and to 
 every six quarts of liquid put three large table- 
 spoonfuls of fresh yeast, spread on toast. On 
 the following day put the wine into a cask, 
 which must be closely stopped. Twenty-four or 
 forty-eight hours to ferment; seven weeks to 
 remain in the cask, when it will be fit either for 
 bottling or drinking. 
 
 CRAB APPLES, SIBERIAN (to preserve whole). 
 
 Hub the crabs with a piece of flannel till they 
 are quite clean, but do not break the skin. 
 Prick each one with a needle to prevent its 
 bursting with the heat of the syrup. Simmer 
 half a dozen cloves and some whole ginger in a 
 breakfast-cupful of water till the flavour is ex- 
 tracted. Strain the liquid, and boil it for ten 
 minutes, with one pound of loaf sugar. Skim 
 it carefully, then put with it a pint of crabs. 
 Let them just boil up, then take off till cold, 
 and repeat this three times. If then they look 
 quite clear they are done enough, if not, boil 
 them once more. Lift the crabs into a jar. 
 Pour the syrup when cold over the fruit, and 
 tie the jar down closely. Time, two or three 
 hours. "They are seldom offered for sale. Suf- 
 ficient, one pound of fresh fruit for one pint of 
 preserved friiit. 
 
 CRAB APPLES, SIBERIAN, JELLY. 
 
 The little red Siberian crabs make delicious 
 and beautiful jelly, which should be made in 
 the same way as apple jelly. (See Apple Jelly.) 
 CRAB (au Gratin). 
 
 Pick all the meat from a crab; lay in the 
 empty shell a layer of the soft part, then a 
 layer of grated crackers or biscuits; over this 
 lay the fleshy part of the crab, on which pour 
 a spoonful of mushroom ketchup ; add some 
 chopped hard-boiled yolks of eggs. Season 
 with a little salt, pepper, and cayenne; cover 
 all with the remainder of the soft part of the 
 crab. Make it even with a wooden spoon or 
 
CRA 
 
 155 
 
 CRA 
 
 knife ; egg and bread-crumb it over ; stick a few 
 bits of butter on top; set it in the oven for 
 twenty minutes or half an hour, and serve very 
 hot. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 CRAB, BOILED. 
 
 Put some water into a saucepan, and to 
 every quart add a table-spoonful of salt. 
 When, it boils, put in the crab, previously 
 taking the precaution to tie its claws. Boil 
 briskly for twenty minutes, or longer if 
 the crab is large. When taken out, rub a 
 little sweet-oil on, the shell. The flavour of 
 crabs is considered better when they are put 
 , into boiling water, besides which, they are 
 sooner killed when the boiling-point has been 
 reached. Probable cost of crabs, from lOd. to 
 3s. 6d. each, depending upon the size. Suffi- 
 cient, a medium-sized crab for three persons. 
 
 CRAB BUTTER. 
 
 Pick the meat from the claws of a large crab. 
 Bruise it well in a, mortar, and mix it with a 
 little fresh butter. Put the mixture into a 
 saucepan with a table-spoonful of water, and 
 let it simmer, gently stirring it all the time. 
 When it is on the point of boiling, take it from 
 the fire and press it through a sieve into a 
 basin, which must stand in cold water until 
 the butter is cold. Time, a few minutes to 
 simmer. Probable cost of crabs, from lOd. to 
 Ss. 6d. eachj depending upon the size. Suf- 
 ficient, the flesh from two large claws, for half a 
 pound of butter. Suitable for a breakfast relish. 
 CRAB BUTTER SAUCE. 
 
 Take half a pint of good melted butter, and 
 stir into it while bbt a piece of butter about 
 the size of an egg, prepared as in the last 
 recipe. Mix well together, and serve. Time, 
 a few minutes. Probable cost of crabs, from 
 lOd. to 3s. 6d. each. Sufficient for a small dish 
 of fish. 
 
 CRAB, CURRIED. 
 
 Pound a clove of garlic in a mortar, with the 
 white part of half a small cocoa-nut, a table- 
 spoonful of curry-powder, a salt-spoonful of 
 salt, and a piece of butter about the size of a 
 walnut,. When these are beaten to a paste, 
 mix them very smoothly over a gentle fire with 
 a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, taking 
 especial care that the saucepan is delicately 
 clean. Add the meat contained in a good-sized 
 crab, and gradually a small cupful of cream. 
 A pound of French beanB, cut into thin strips 
 and, simmered with the crab, is an improvement 
 to this dish. Just before serving, squeeze over it 
 the juice of a lemon. Serve as usual with rice 
 round the dish. Lobster may be used instead of 
 crab. Time, to simmer, ten minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, 2b. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 CRAB, CURRIED, CANAPES OF. 
 
 Remove the meat from the shell of a crab, 
 and pound it in a mdrtar with a piece of butter 
 the size of a walnut. Season with cufry-powder, 
 salt, pepper, lemon-juice, nutmeg, mustard, 
 and cayenne; moisten with a little tarragon 
 vinegar. Have ready some small rounds of 
 fried bread, scooped out in the centre. Fill 
 the cavities with the mixture, sprinkle over 
 with bread-crumbs, bake for ten minutes in the 
 oven, and serve hot. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 
 CRAB, DEVILLED. 
 
 Take the meat from a crab ; put one ounce of 
 butter into a saucepan with a little cayenne and 
 salt, add a table-spoonful of curry-powder, one 
 of Worcester sauce, a tea-spoonful of anch9vy 
 sauce, and half a cupful of white sauce (bech- 
 amel); when boiling add the meat of the crab. 
 Serve witli rice. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 
 CRAB, DRESSED. 
 
 Take a fine heavy crab, break off the claws 
 and feelers, remove all the flesh from them and 
 the body, picking it carefully from the bony 
 centre portion. There is the soft dark flesh and 
 the white; the latter is separated into shreds 
 with a fork. Wash the empty shell, rub it 
 with a, little warmed butter to polish it. Chip 
 off the under portion of the shell to make a 
 neat edge. Mix the soft, dark substance with 
 oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, and the crumbs. Toss 
 the white meat in oil, pepper, and vinegar. 
 Fill the shell alternately with the two mixtures, 
 piling them rather high in the pentre. Decor- 
 ate in lines with the parsley, chopped white of 
 egg, and the powdered yolk. Probable cost. 
 Is. 6d. 
 
 CRAB, HOT OR BUTTERED. 
 
 Pick the meat from the shell of a fine crab, 
 and mix it with a little salt, pepper, and grated 
 nutmeg, a few bread-crumbs, a spoonful or two 
 of salad-oil or good cream, and vinegar. Pill 
 the shell with the mixture, strew finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs over it, and heat it in the oven 
 or before the fire. Garnish the dish with parsley, 
 and send toasted bread to table with it. Time 
 to prepare, three-quarters of an hour. Prob- 
 able cost of crabs, from lOd. to 3s. 6d. each. 
 Sufficient, a medium-sized crab for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 CRAB, MINCED. 
 
 Pick out the meat from a medium-sized crab, 
 as in the last recipe, being careful to leave out 
 the unwholesome part near the head. Chop it, 
 and a small-boned anchovy, together, and put 
 them into a saucepan with a little salt and 
 cayenne, two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, two of 
 sherry, a lump of butter about the size of a 
 walnut, and two table-spoonfuls of bread- 
 crumbs. Simmer gently for a few minutes. 
 Then draw the saucepan back, and add very 
 gradually the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. 
 Serve on a hot dish, and garnish with parsley. 
 Probable cost, from Is. to 3s., according to 
 size. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 CRAB, MOCK. 
 
 Take a pound of Gloucester or Cheshire 
 cheese, and pound it in a mortar with two 
 spoonfuls of vinegar, three of salad-oil, one of 
 mixed mustard, and salt and cayenne to taste. 
 When it is well pounded, mix with it half a 
 pound of potted shrimps. It may be served in 
 a crab-shell, and garnished with parsley. Time, 
 about twenty jninutes to prepare. Probable 
 cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 CRAB OMELETTE. 
 
 Break six eggs in a basin, season with salt 
 and pepper, and beat with a fork. Put two 
 ounces of butter into an oval-shaped pan, and as 
 soon as the butter melts pour in the eggs. 
 
CRA 
 
 156 
 
 CRA 
 
 stirring lightly with a fork. Add a due pro- 
 portion of the finely-shredded flesh of a crab, 
 with a touch of vinegar, a little more salt, a 
 dust of cayenne, and a little very finely-minced 
 parsley. When the omelette is half set toss or 
 turn it until fully set. When it assumes a pale 
 gold colour turn it out on the dish, and serve at 
 once. Crayfish sauce is often served with this 
 dish. Probable cost, 2s. 
 
 CRAB, POTTED. 
 
 Pick the meat from the shell and claws of a 
 freshly-boiled crab. Pound it in a mortar with 
 salt, cayenne, and pounded mace. Press it into 
 small jars, cover it with butter, and bake it in 
 & moderate oven for half an hour. When cold, 
 pour freshly-clarified butter over it, and set it 
 aside' to get cold. The remains of a crab that 
 lias been partly eaten may be used in this way, 
 but it should be baked on the day on which it 
 was opened. Probable cost, 6d. for a two- 
 ounce jar. Sufficient for two persons. 
 
 CRAB SALAD. 
 
 Crack the large claws of a crab and pick out 
 the white meat in as large pieces as possible. 
 Lay the contents of the carapace in the middle 
 of a large dish ; on that put the pickings from 
 the breast, and on the top the pieces from the 
 •claws. Surround the pile with a small quan- 
 tity of mixed salad, quartered lettuce-hearts, 
 blanched endive, or water-cress. Pour a little 
 mayonnaise or salad-dressing over the whole, 
 and garnish the dish with the small claws and a 
 little green parsley. The four black tips of the 
 shells of the large claws, which children call 
 soldiers, may be placed at the four corners. 
 Be careful that the mixed salad is thoroughly 
 dry. Time to prepare, three-quarters of an 
 lour. Probable cost of crabs, from lOd. to 
 3s. 6d. each. Sufficient, a medium-sized crab 
 for foiir persons. 
 
 CRAB SAUCE. 
 
 Mix a dessert-spoonful of flour very smoothly 
 ■with a little cold water, and pour upon it a tea- 
 cupful of boiling water and a tea-cupful of new 
 milk, .also boiling. Add three ounces of fresh 
 iuttet, half a tea-spoonful of salt, the same of 
 pepper, and a quarter of a nutmeg grated. 
 Put all together on the fire, and stir the sauce 
 •constantly till it boils. Now add the flesh from 
 the claws and body of a medium-sized crab, 
 torn into small pieces with two forks. Let the 
 sauce get quite hot ; but it must not boil again 
 after the crab is added, or the flavour will be 
 lost. Time, half an hour. Probable cost of 
 crabs, from lOd. to 3s. 6d. each. Sufficient for a 
 tureen. 
 
 CRAB, SCALLOPED. 
 
 Prepare the crab as for Minced Ceab, omit- 
 ting the wine and eggs. Clean out the large 
 round shell of the crab, flll it with the mixture, 
 and put what is left into scallop-shells. Place 
 them in a moderately hot oven or before a clear 
 fire. When hot through and lightly browned, 
 take them up, put them on a dish covered with 
 a napkin, the crab-shell in the middle and the 
 scallop-shells round it, and garnish with pars- 
 ley. Time, about half an hour. Probable cost 
 of crab, from lOd. to 3s. 6d. Sufficient, a 
 medium-sized cab for four persons. 
 
 CRAB SOUP. 
 
 W^ash half a pound of rice in one or two 
 waters, then put it into a saucepan with a quart 
 of milk or white stock, an inch and a half of 
 stick cinnamon, a little salt and pepper, and a 
 piece of butter the size of an egg. Let it sim- 
 mer gently till quite tender, then mix with it 
 the pounded yellow pith from the body of a 
 freshly-boiled crab, and another quart of stock. 
 Rub all through a sieve, then pour it into a 
 stewpan with the flesh from the claws torn into 
 flakes with two forks. Add a tea-spoonful of 
 the essence of anchovies. Stir it again over 
 the fire until thoroughly heated, but it must 
 not boil after the crab is added. Time, one 
 hour and a half. Probable cost. Is. 6d. per 
 quart. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 CRAB, SUPREME OF, WITH TOMATOES. 
 
 Extract from a crab of goodly size the flesh of 
 the claws, etc., and the rich parts of the body, 
 taking care to eliminate the (grey) lungs and 
 every portion of the shell. To each pound 
 of crab-meat add the following ingredients. 
 One-third of a pound of stale and well- 
 shredded bread-crumbs, free from every par- 
 ticle of crust; one-third of a pint (about an 
 ordinary sauce bottle) of English tomato sauce, 
 or, that not being readily obtainable, a similar 
 quantity of French " conserve tomate " ; the 
 juice of half a lemon, the peel of same (cut to a 
 thickness not greater than that of a sheet of 
 heavy notepaper) in very small fragments, and 
 ten or a dozen thin slices of lemon ; salt and 
 pepper to taste; cayenne pepper is often used, 
 but sparingly, as some object to it, or it may be 
 omitted altogether, and added at table by those 
 liking it; one wineglass ofi Chablis or dry 
 sherry. Simmer for a quarter of an hour, 
 stirring frequently, and adding more wine if 
 there is any tendency to burn. This depends 
 on the dryness of the crab, which is variable 
 (the best crabs are heavy, and rather dry; poor 
 crabs are watery). Then bring once to a boil, 
 immediately thereafter turning out theragoiit 
 into a deep dish, ornamented at the edges with 
 alternate triangular sippets of dry toast and 
 half slices of lemon. The result is a beautiful 
 pink, creamy-looking plat, the slices of cool 
 yellow lemon contrasting with the warmer 
 tints. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 
 CRAB, TO CHOOSE. 
 
 Choose a crab of the medium size (neither 
 very large nor very small), and heavy ; the light 
 crabs are watery. The male crab is the best for 
 the table, and may be distinguished by pos- 
 sessing larger claws. When selecting a crab 
 which has been cooked it should be held by its 
 claws and well shaken from side to side. Should 
 it be found to rattle, as if it contained water, 
 the crab is of inferior quality. The preference 
 should be given to those that have a rough shell 
 and claws. The joints of the claws should be 
 stiif, the shell a bright red, and the eyes bright 
 and firm. 
 
 CRAB, TO DRESS. 
 
 Pick out all the meat from two crabs and mix 
 all well together with a wine-glassful of vinegar, 
 the same of oil, a salt-spoonful of salt, a table- 
 spoonful of mustard, and a tea-spoonful of 
 
 II 
 
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 157 
 
 CRA 
 
 white pepper. Clean out one o^ the large shells, 
 put the mixture into it, and place it on a, nap- 
 kin with the small claws, and a, little parsley 
 for garnish. Time to prepare, three-quarters 
 of an hour. Probable cost of crabs, lOd. to 
 3s. 6d. each. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 CRACKilMELS. 
 
 Beat eight eggs with eight table-spoonfuls of 
 rose-water and a grated nutmeg. Mix with 
 them just over two quarts of flour with sufficient 
 cold water to make a stiff paste. Mix with 
 the paste two pounds of butter, and make it into 
 cracknels. Put them into a pan of boiling 
 water, and boil them until they swim. Then 
 put them into cold water, and, when they are 
 hardened, dry them, and bake them on tin- 
 plates in a moderate oven. Time to bake, about 
 a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 5s. for 
 this quantity. 
 
 CRADLE CAKES. 
 
 These cakes, when they are made properly, 
 are, and deserve to be, very much appreciated 
 by children, and if a little pink water icing is 
 spread over them the appearance is considerably 
 improved, and the little folk are delighted.' 
 
 Cream three ounces of butter with three 
 ounces of castor sugar, and add half a pound 
 of flour mixed with a tea-spoonful of baking 
 powder. Grate one lemon rind into this mix- 
 ture, then beat in three eggs, one at a time, 
 beating each for five minutes. Next add three 
 ounces of minced cherries or currants and a 
 few drops of cochineal. A little milk may be 
 added if the mixture is too stiff. Pour the 
 mixture into as many buttered queen cake tins 
 as are necessary — it is generally as well to 
 make a good many of these delicious little 
 cakes — and bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 CRANBERRIES, TO PICKLE. 
 
 Gather the clusters before they are fnlly ripe. 
 Put them into jars and cover them with strong 
 salt and water. When fermentation begins, 
 drain them, and add fresh salt and water. 
 Keep the jars closely covered. They are ready 
 for use in a week or two. Probable cost, 
 fresh fruit, uncertain; bottled, 8d. or lOd. per 
 bottle. 
 
 CRANBERRIES, TO PRESERVE. 
 
 Pick the cranberries (reject the injured 
 berries), and to every pound of fruit allow two 
 pounds of sugar. Pour a cupful of water into 
 the preserving-pan, and place in it alternate 
 layers of cranberries and sugar. Boil gently 
 and skim carefully. The preserve must be kept 
 in closely-covered jars. Time, twenty minutes 
 after it comes to a boil. Sufficient, one pound 
 of fruit for one pound of jam. 
 
 CRANBERRY AND GROUND RICE JELLY. 
 
 Draw out a pint of cranberry-juice by put- 
 ting the fruit and two or three cloves into a 
 closely-covered jar, placing the jar in a sauce- 
 pan of cold water on a moderate fire, and sim- 
 mering gently for about half an hour. Mix 
 the juice with three table-spoonfuls of ground 
 rice and two of sugar, boil it gently until it 
 thickens, and pour it into a mould which has 
 been immersed in cold water. When cold, turn 
 it out, and eat it with a little cream. A 
 
 quarter of an hour to boil with the rice. Suffi- 
 cient for four persons. 
 
 CRANBERRY GRUEL (Invalid cookery). 
 
 A few cranberries boiled in a little thin gruel„ 
 sweetened and flavoured with grated nutmeg, 
 is a pleasant change for an invalid. Time, ten. 
 minutes. Sufficient, half a cupful of cran- 
 berries with their juice for half a pint of gruel. 
 
 CRANBERRY JELLY. 
 
 Make half a pint of very strong isinglass 
 jelly, using nearly an ounce of isinglass to the 
 half pint of jelly. When it is clear, add a pint 
 of cranberry-juice which has been drawn out 
 over the fire and pressed from the fruit. 
 Sweeten the liquid with half a pound of best 
 loaf sugar. Add a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice 
 and the whites and shells of three eggs. Sim- 
 mer the preparation gently without stirring it 
 for a few minutes, let it stand to settle, straia 
 it until clear, and pour it into .a mould. Prob- 
 able cost, 38. 6d. Sufficient for a quart mould. 
 
 CRANBERRY PIE. 
 
 Use one cup of cranberries, half a cupful of 
 raisins, one cup of sugar, one cup of water, 
 one table-spoonful of flour, and one tea-spoon- 
 ful of vanilla. Chop the cranberries and 
 raisins fine, and stir in the fiour, sugar, vanilla, 
 and water. Bake with upper and under crusts. 
 Probable cost. Is. 
 
 CRANBERRY SAUCE. 
 
 Pick over and wash one quart of cranberries, 
 put them in an enamelled saucepan with half 
 a pint of water, and boil for half an hour, or 
 until the cranberries are perfectly soft, add 
 half a pint of sifted sugar, and serve cold, with, 
 roast turkey or duck. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 CRANBERRY TART. 
 
 Wash the cranberries in several waters. 
 Allow a quarter of a pound of sugar and two' 
 cloves to every pint of cranberries, and parti- 
 ally cook them before putting them into the 
 tart. Three-parts fill a pie-dish with the fruit, 
 cover it with a good crust, and bake in a 
 moderate oven. Before baking the tart, brush 
 it all over with cold water, and sprinkle white 
 sugar upon it. A pint of cranberries will make 
 n tart sufficient for three persons. 
 
 CRAYFISH, ESCALOPES OF (a la Cardinal). 
 
 Break the crayfish, remove the meat, and 
 mince small. Heat up in a stewpan with one 
 ounce of bread-crumbs, » little butter, and 
 enough white sauce to moisten; when thor- 
 oughly hot add two yolks of eggs, season to 
 taste, and stir over the fire until the mixture 
 binds. Spread on a plate and set to cool. Shape 
 it into BIX or eight oval croquettes with the 
 ends pointed and the centre of each made 
 hollow on one side; egg and bread-crumb them 
 carefully, and fry to a golden colour in hot 
 fat. Take up, drain, and dish up in a row 
 on a hot dish ; place a small trimmed poached 
 egg in the centre of each croquette. Cover 
 over carefully with well-reduced cardinal 
 sauce ; insert a prawn at each end of the cro- 
 quettes. Place a star or half-moon of truffle 
 or mushroom in the centre of each, and serve 
 hot. Probable cost, 2s. 
 
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 158 
 
 CRE 
 
 CRAYFISH IN JELLY. 
 
 Crayfish are something like lobsters, but 
 smaller, and the flesh more delicate; indeed, 
 they are more useful and delicious than any 
 other shell-fish, and if every housekeeper were 
 to inquire for them two or three times at the 
 fishmonger's they would soon become plentiful. 
 There are several kinds ; those are considered 
 the best which are reddish under the claws. 
 To serve them in jelly, take a pint of fish for 
 rather less than a pint of savoury jelly (see 
 Aspic Jelly). Put a little jelly at the bottom ' 
 of a mould; when it is cold, lay the crayfish 
 upon it, and repeat this until the materials are 
 finished, but care must be taken to let the jelly 
 stiffen each time or all will sink to the bottom, 
 and also to put the fish in with the back down- 
 wards, qr they will be wrong side up when 
 turned out. , Garnish with parsley. This is a 
 pretty dish. Time, thirty-six hours or more. 
 Probable cost, crayfish, 2s. per quart. Suf- 
 ficient for a quart mould. 
 CRAYFISH, POTTED. 
 
 Boil the fish in water with plenty of salt in 
 it. Pick out the meat and pound it well in a 
 mortar with a little grated nutmeg or pounded 
 mace, ' pepper, salt, and a small quantity of 
 fresh butter. An ounce of butter may be 
 allowed to a pint of crayfish. Put the paste 
 into small jars, cover these with clarified but- 
 ter, and cover closely. Time, ten minutes to 
 boil the crayfish. Probable cost, 2s. per quart. 
 
 CRAYFISH SOUP, OR POTAGE BISQUE (deficious). 
 Take fifty crayfish (or one hundred prawns, 
 if crayfish cannot be obtained). Remove the 
 gut from the centre fin of the tail, or it will 
 make the soup bitter. Shell the fish and keep 
 the tails whole. Pound the shells with foUr 
 ounces of fresh butter, the crumb of a French 
 roll, and three anchovies, and put them into a 
 stewpan with two quarts of fish stock, four 
 ounces of washed rice, a dessert-spoonful of 
 ^alt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, and an onion 
 stuck with three cloves. Simmer for two hours. 
 Put the pounded meat, but not the tails, into 
 the soup, simmer again, then press the whole 
 through a sieve. Make the soup hot before 
 serving it, but do not let it boil. Five min- 
 utes before it is taken from the fire put in the 
 tails whole. Serve with toasted sippets. A 
 glass of Madeira is an improvement to this soup. 
 Probable cost, crayfish, 2s. per quart. Sufficient 
 for six or eight persons. 
 CRAYFISH, TO DRESS. 
 
 Wash the crayfish and boil them for ten min- 
 utes in water with salt in it. They should be a 
 iDright red when done. Drain them. Pile them 
 on a dapkiu, pyramid form, and garnish the 
 dish with parsley. Probable cost, 2s. per 
 quart. Sufficient, a quart for a dish. 
 CRAYFISH, TO KEEP ALIVE. 
 
 Crayfish may be kept alive for two or three 
 days if they are put into a bucket with a little 
 drop of water, not quite an inch deep, at the 
 'bottom. The water must be changed every five 
 or six hours. 
 CRAYFISH, TO STEW. 
 
 Take a quart of crayfish, remove the gut from 
 the centre fin of the tail, and pick the meat 
 
 from the tails. Pound the bodies, with four 
 ounces of butter, and put them into a stewpan 
 with four pints of water, a spoonful of vinegar, 
 half a nutmeg grated, and a little salt and 
 pepper. Simmer gently for half an hour. 
 Strain, and thicken the sauce with a little flour. 
 Add the tails. When they are hot, pour the 
 whole over a slice of toasted bread, and serve. 
 Probable cost of crayfish, 2s. per quart. Suf- 
 ficient for six or seven persons. 
 CREAM. 
 
 In the ordinary use of the word, cream is the 
 name given to the yellow, delicious matter 
 which rises to the surface of milk, and can be 
 taken from it by skimming. In cookery, it 
 applies to a number of rich dishes in which 
 cream is the principal ingredient, and wnich are 
 generally named after the flavouring material. 
 Creams may be served either moulded or in cus- 
 tard-glasses. When they are moulded, they 
 should, if possible, be frozen, and if this can- 
 not be done, they should be made stiff with 
 isinglass. It is almost impossible to give minute 
 directions as to the amount of isinglass to be 
 used ; the strength and quality differ so much, 
 but it may be useful to remember that a larger 
 proportion of isinglass will be needed for a 
 large mould than a small one. Too much sugar 
 and too much water both tend to prevent a 
 mould from turning out in shape. The moulds 
 for creams should always be oiled or immersed 
 in cold water before they are used. In all the 
 recipes where cream is required, and when it is 
 not easily obtained, Swiss milk will be most 
 useful. Though it is not agreeable to drink, it 
 is excellent for cookery, and much lesa ex- 
 pensive than cream, and it must be remembered 
 that whenever it is used, sugar may be entirely 
 dispensed with. In calculating the cost of the 
 various sweet dishes, cream Is put down at 
 Is. 6d. per pint. If the Swiss or Aylesbury milk 
 were used it would be much less. In the' same 
 way isinglass is reckoned at Is. 2d. per ounce, 
 which is the price of the best. If opaque gela- 
 tine be used, which, though not nearly so nice, ■ 
 is considered by many quite satisfactory, that 
 may be obtaiiied at 4d. per ounce. 
 
 CREAM (a la Parisienne). 
 
 Dissolve an ounce of isinglass in a pint and a 
 half of hot cream; stir it well, add the juice of 
 half a small lemon, two table-spoonfuls of 
 sifted sugar, and half a pound of good jam — 
 apricot is to be preferred — but none must be 
 used which was not pressed through a sieve at 
 the time it was made. The jam should be 
 added gradually, arid the cream stirred till it is - 
 nearly cold, or the jam will sink to the bot- 
 tom. Time : an hour to prepare ; twelve hours 
 or more to stiffen. Probable cost, 3s. lOd. 
 Sufficient for a quart mould. 
 
 CREAM {k la Valois). 
 
 Cut three or four spongecakes into thin 
 slices. Arrange them on a dish with a little 
 jam spread on each, and pour over them a wine- 
 glassful of sherry. Dissolve an ounce and a 
 half of isinglass in one pint of boiling milk or 
 cream. Sweeten it, and add a table-spoonful 
 of brandy and the same of lemon-juice. Stir it 
 well, then pour a little into an oiled mould, 
 and let it set; then place the sponge slices on 
 
CRE 
 
 159 
 
 CRE 
 
 it. Fill the mould with the remainder of the 
 cream, and when it is firm turn it on to a glass 
 dish. Time, an hour to prepare. Probable 
 cost, 2s. 6d., exclusive of the sherry and brandy. 
 Sufficient for a quart mould. 
 
 CREAM, APPLE PIE. 
 
 Make an apple pie in the usual way. When 
 it is sufficiently cooked, take it out of the oven, 
 cut out the pastry from the middle, and, when 
 cold, pour a pint of good custard in its place. 
 Put some ornaments of puff paste on the cover. 
 Any kind of firm fruit may be sent to table in 
 the same way. 
 
 CREAM BISCUITS (flavoured with LRmon). 
 
 Beat up the yolks of six eggs with half a 
 pound of finely-sifted sugar. When well 
 worked together, add six whites whipped to a 
 froth, one gill of whipped cream, and the grated 
 peel of a lemon. Lay on a baking-sheet, a 
 table-spoonful at a time, in the form of 
 round biscuits. Bake in a moderate oven for 
 ten to twelve minutes. These biscuits may be 
 varied by substituting orange or vanilla for 
 lemon flavouring. Probable cost, about Is. 6d. 
 
 CREAM, BURNT. 
 
 Boil a pint of milk in a saucepan, with a 
 stick of cinnamon, and a little candied len^^in- 
 peel cut into small pieces. Let it remain by 
 the side of the fire to draw out the flavour, 
 then strain it, and pour it over the yolks of 
 three or four eggs well beaten. Put the mix- 
 tiire on the fire, and simmer, the custard gently 
 until it thickens. Pour it into a dish; when 
 cold, cover the surface witjh powdered loaf 
 sugar, and brown with a salamander. Time, 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient 
 for a pint and a half of cream. 
 
 CREAM CAKE. 
 
 Beat three ounces of butter to a cream, and 
 mix with it, very smoothly, half a pound of fine 
 flour, a small tea-spoonful of baking-powder, 
 two table-spoonfuls of sugar, a jpinch of salt, 
 the rind .of a fresh lemon sliced as thinly as 
 possible, and a cupful of thick cream beaten up 
 with an egg. If the cream is a little turned it 
 will not signify; indeed, it is rather an advan- 
 tage than otherwise. It should make a light 
 batter. Put it in a well-oiled dish, and bake in 
 a moderate oven for rather more than half an 
 hour. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for a 
 small cake. 
 
 CREAM, CARAMEL. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar ; put 
 it into a pan with three table-spoonfiils of 
 water, set it on the fire until it becomes burnt 
 brown and tastes, rather bitter. Have ready a 
 quarter of a pint of boiling cream, and pour it 
 into the sugar. Strain it through a fine sieve 
 into a basin, and let it cool a little. Take six 
 yolks of eggs and mix wdth the cream, put it 
 into a stewpan over the fire, and whisk it till 
 it becomes thick, but do not let it boil. Now 
 put it back into the basin, add half an ounce of 
 warm melted isinglass; stir with a wooden 
 spoon or whisk till nearly cold. Have ready a 
 pint of whipped cream to mix with it, sweeten 
 to taste, and iinmediately pour it into a mould. 
 Probable cost. Is. 
 
 CREAM, CLOTTED. 
 
 Clotted cream, usually called Devonshire 
 cream, is sold in the London markets in small 
 brown jugs, and is exceedingly delicious when 
 eaten with fresh fruit. It is made by putting 
 the milk into a large metal pan, and allowing 
 it to stand without moving it for some hours, 
 twenty-four in winter, twelve in summer. The 
 pan is then placed on a stove, or over a very 
 slow fire, and some distance above it, so that 
 it will heat without boiling or even simmering 
 until a solid mass forms on the top. The pan 
 should be then taken to the cool dairy, and the 
 cream lifted off when cold. Time, the slower 
 the better. Probable cost, 6d. for a small jug. 
 
 CREAM, COFFEE. 
 
 Boil a calf's foot in a quart of water till it is 
 reduced to a pint of jelly, clear of sediment and 
 fat. Make a tea-cupful of very strong coffee, 
 clear it with a bit of isinglass that it may, be 
 perfectly bright.; pour it on the jelly, and add 
 a pint of very good cream; sweeten to taste. 
 Give it one boil up, and pour it into a mould. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 CREAM CRUST. 
 
 Pastry is much improved' if it is mixed with 
 cream instead of water. Less butter will be re- 
 quired ; indeed, for home consumption, it is 
 very good without any at all. It should be 
 baked as soon as made. 
 
 CREAM ECLAIRS. 
 
 Put two ounces of sugar and two ounces of 
 butter into a stewpan with a quarter of a pint of 
 water. Bring it gently to the boil, and mix in 
 very gradually four ounces of sifted flour. Cook 
 slowly for ten minutes, stirring all the time, 
 until the paste begins to be firm. Remove 
 from the fire, and add three eggs, one at a 
 time, mixing each thoroughly before adding 
 the next. Flavour with a few drops of vanilla 
 essence. Make into balls, brush them over with 
 a little beaten egg and milk, place them in a 
 moderate oven, and bake to a light fawn 
 colour. The eclairs should rise rapidly, 
 and when cooled should be quite hollow 
 inside. Make a small hole in the centre 
 of each, and fill it with sweetened cream 
 put in through a funnel. Decorate with 
 powdered cochineal or little strips of angelica. 
 Probable cost. Is. for twelve. 
 
 CREAM FRITTERS. 
 
 Pound in a mortar half a dozen macaroons, 
 two ounces of sugar, half a tea-spoonful of salt, 
 and the rind, grated, of half a lemon. Beat up 
 two whites and half a dozen yolks of egg^s separ- 
 ately, with half a pint of cream, and stir all 
 well together. Form into fritters, and fry them 
 a light brown, both sides alike, and serve them 
 quickly, with wine sauce and fine powdered 
 sugar. Probable cost. Is. 9d. Time, four' to 
 five minutes to fry. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 CREAM, ITALIAN. 
 
 Dissolve one ounce of gelatine in a spoonful 
 of milk. Make a custard with half a pint of 
 milk, the yolks of three eggs, and a little sugar. 
 Stir in a, few drops of vanilla, and a spoonful of 
 brandy for flavouring. When cool, add the 
 
CRE 
 
 ICO 
 
 CRE 
 
 dissolved gelatine, and half a pint of cream 
 which has been whisked till it thickens. Put 
 it into a well-oiled mould, and set it on ice, or, 
 if preferred, serve in glasses. Double creani, or 
 cream that has stood twenty-four hours, should 
 be used for making creams. Probable cost, 2s. 
 Sufficient for a large mould. 
 
 CREAM, LEMON 
 
 Eub the thin rind of a lemon on a quarter of 
 a pound of loaf sugar, and squeeze over it the 
 juice of two lemons, and add two glasses of 
 sherry. Let it stand for nearly an hour. Strain 
 the syrup, and pour over it one pint and a half 
 of cream which has been boiled and slightly 
 cooled. Pour it rapidly from one jug to 
 another, till it is thoroughly mixed, and a little 
 curdled. Serve in custard-glasses. Probable 
 cost, with cream, 2s. 8d., exclusive of the sherry. 
 Sufficient for ten or twelve glasses. 
 
 CREAM, LEMON (another way). 
 
 Put one pint of cream into a scrupulously 
 clean saucepan, with four table-spoonfuls of 
 sifted sugar, and the thin rind of a lemon, and 
 simmer till pleasantly flavoured. Dissolve an 
 ounce of isinglass, and add this to the cream 
 when cool, together with the yolks of two eggs 
 well beaten. Strain the liquid into a jug; put 
 the jug into a saucepan of cold water, place 
 this over a slow fire, and stir the liquid con- 
 stantly until it thickens ; it must not boil. When 
 nearly cold, add the juice of the lemon. Pour the 
 cream backwards and forwards for a few min- 
 utes until the jiiice is well mixed. Put it into a 
 well-oiled mould, and keep in a cool place until 
 set. Turn it out before serving. Good cream 
 may be made of Swiss milk ; if this is used, the 
 sugar must be omitted. Time, half an hour. 
 Probable cost, 2s. lOd. with cream. Is. 8d. with 
 Swiss milk. Sufficient for one pint and a half 
 mould. 
 
 CREAM, LEMON (another way). 
 
 Peel three lemons, and be careful to leave the 
 white pith untouched. Spak the thin rind in a 
 quart of milk, and leave it until the latter is 
 pleasantly flavoured. Then add the yolks of six 
 eggs well beaten, and a pint of water sweetened 
 with a quarter of a pound of sugar. Strain the 
 milk, and simmer it over a gentle fire until it 
 becomes of the consistency of cream, and pour it 
 into jelly-glasses. Time, ten minutes to simmer 
 the cream. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient 
 for one dozen and a half glasses. 
 
 CREAM, NEAPOLITAN. 
 
 Make a rich custard with one pint of cream, 
 one pint of milk, one and a half ounces of gela- 
 tine, four ounces of loaf sugar, and the yolks 
 of eight eggs; flavour with vanilla; divide it 
 into three portions. Colour the first red with 
 carmine, the second green with spinach-juice, 
 and leave the third its original colour; whip 
 each separately to a froth. While the custard 
 is still warm, pour about one inch of the red 
 cream into a mould; let it set, then pour in a 
 little of the plain cream; and when this is set, 
 pour in a layer of the green. Go on pouring in 
 layers in the same way until the mould is filled. 
 When the cream is quite cold turn it out care- 
 fully; sprinkle over it a few chopped almonds, 
 and serve. Probable cost. 2s. 
 
 CREAM OF CHEESE SOUP. 
 
 Heat, but not boil, in a double boiler, one full 
 quart of milk, one blade of mace, one tea- 
 spoonful of minced onion, one table-spoonful of 
 carrot. Blend together one-fourth of a cupful 
 of butter and two level table-spoonfuls of flour. 
 To this add the hot milk, half a cup at a time, 
 stirring constantly and cooking between each 
 addition. Strain back into the double boiler, 
 add three-fourths of a cupful of grated cheese 
 and stir till melted. Season with salt and white 
 pepper and pour over it the beaten yolks of two 
 eggs. Cook a moment, remove the inner boiler, 
 and beat with an egg beater till covered with a 
 fine froth. Serve at once in hot cups. This is 
 enough for eight persons. 
 
 CREAM OF RICE SOUP. 
 
 This is made by thickening some good stock 
 with ground rice. The rice should be mixed 
 smoothly with a little cold water, and added to 
 the boiling stock. 
 
 CREAM OF TARTAR CAKE. 
 
 Eub one ounce of butter into three pints of 
 flour. Add three tea-spoonfuls of cream of tar- 
 tar, and a pinch of salt. Dissolve a tea-spoon- 
 ful of carbonate of soda in a pint of milk. 
 Add the milk to the flour, roll out the dough, 
 cut it into cakes the size of a cup-plate, and 
 about half an inch thick, and bake on tins in 
 a quick oven. Time to bake, about twenty 
 minutes. Probable cost, lOd. for this quan- 
 tity. Sufficient for six or eight cakes. 
 CREAM OF TARTAR, TO DRINK. 
 
 Put an ounce of cream of tartar, the rind and 
 juice of two lemons, and a quarter of a pound 
 of sifted sugar into a jug. Pour over them two 
 quarts of boiling water. Drink the beverage 
 when cold. It will prove cooling and whole- 
 some. Time, a few minutes to prepare. Probable 
 cost, 3d. per quart. Sufficient for two quarts. 
 CREAM, ORANGE. 
 
 Soak the thin rind of three oranges in a pint 
 of milk till the flavour is extracted. Strain the 
 milk, and boil it, then pour it boiling hot upon 
 half an ounce of gelatine which has been soaked 
 in cold water for an hour. Stir it until dis- 
 solved, sweeten it agreeably and keep stirring 
 occasionally till cool, to prevent a scum forming. 
 Pour the cream into a damp mould and let it 
 remain, till set. Turn out and serve. Cut the 
 soaked rind into thin strips. Boil these in 
 syrup to which the orange juice has been added, 
 and pour both rind and syrup over the cream, 
 when it is turned out. 
 
 CREAM PANCAKES. 
 
 Whisk thoroughly the yolks of three and the 
 whites of two eggs. Add a small cupful of 
 thick cream, a little sugar, and sufficient flour 
 to make a good batter. Put with it a piece of 
 butter about the size of an egg. Fry in the 
 usual way. This and all other batters are better 
 made two or three hours before they are used. 
 Time to fry, five or six minutes. Probable cost. 
 Is. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 CREAM, PATISSIERE. 
 
 Beat one ounce of fine flour very smoothly 
 and gradually with three well-beaten eggs, and 
 add, a little at a time, a pint of boiling milk. 
 
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 161 
 
 CRE 
 
 or cream and milk, or cream only. Sweeten it 
 with some lumps of sugar which have been 
 rubbed on fresh lemon-rind, and heat the mix- 
 ture over the fire, stirring all the time, until it 
 thickens; but it must not boil. This cream is 
 used by the French instead of our cold custard, 
 and is very good made as above, but an ounce 
 and a half of crushed ratafias, or a little brandy, 
 will improve it, and it may then be used for 
 tartlets, cannelons, small vol-au-vents, etc. 
 Sufiicient for one pint and a half. Probable 
 cost, 8d., made with milk. 
 
 CREAM PUDDING, RICH. 
 
 Put the thin rind of a lemon into a pint of 
 cream, bring it slowly to a boil, and pour it 
 over the finely-grated crumb of a French roll. 
 Let it stand to soak, then beat it well with a 
 fork, and add two table-spoonfuls of sugar, a 
 pinch of salt, one or two drops of almond flavour- 
 ing, a table-spoonful of brandy, and the yolks of , 
 six eggs well beaten. Bake in a buttered dish, 
 and serve with wine sauce. Time to bake, half 
 an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 3d., exclusive of 
 the brandy. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 CREAM, RICE. 
 
 Put a quart of new milk or cream into a sauce- 
 pan with any flavouring that may be preferred ; 
 if lemon-rind, stick cinnamon, or bay-leaves, 
 the milk should be left standing by the side of 
 the fire a little while to draw the flavour. Mix 
 two table-spoonfuls of ground rice vidth a little 
 of the milk, and gradually with the whole of it. 
 Add a well-beaten egg and stir the cream over 
 a gentle fire till it thickens. Sweeten to taste, 
 and serve in a glass dish as an accompaniment 
 to fruit tart or stewed fruit. The cream should 
 be stirred until cold to prevent a skin forming 
 on the top. Time, twenty minutes. Probable 
 cost, 6d. Sufficient for a quart of cream. 
 
 CREAM SAUCE. 
 
 Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into 
 a saucepan with a dessert-spoonful of fine flour, 
 and beat them smoothly together with a wooden 
 spoon. When the butter is melted, add gradu- 
 ally half a pint of cream or new milk, and a 
 little salt, pepper, and pounded mace. Let the 
 sauce simmer over a gentle fire, and stir it 
 constantly. If it becomes tioo thick, it may be 
 , thinned by the addition of a small quantity of 
 milk or cream. The juice of a lemon may be 
 added, if liked. This sauce may be used for 
 turbot, cod, and other fish, vegetables, and 
 white dishes. Time, a quarter of an hour. 
 Probable cost, 4d., if made with milk. Sufficient 
 for rather more than half a pint of sauce. 
 
 CREAM, SHERRY. 
 
 Simmer a pint of cream, with an inch of stick 
 cinnamon, and two table-spoonfuls of pounded 
 loaf sugar. Let it get cold, then add gradually 
 three table-spoonfuls of sherry. Strain, and 
 serve in glasses. Strew a little powdered cin- 
 namon on the top of each glass ; stir it well. 
 Time, a quarter of an hour to simmer the cream. 
 Probable cost, cream, Is. 6d. per pint. Suf- 
 ficient for half a dozen glasses. 
 
 CREAM, SODA. 
 
 Put three pounds of loaf sugar, two ounces 
 and a half of tartaric acid, and two quarts of 
 cold water into a preserving-pan. Let it just 
 L 
 
 boil, then add the whites of three eggs beaten 
 to a firm froth. Let this boil exactly four min- 
 utes, stirring all the time. Strain, and when 
 it is cold, add a small tea-spoonful of 'any fla- 
 vouring essence that may be preferred. Keep 
 the liquid in a bottle closely corked. When an 
 agreeable refreshing summer beverage is wanted, 
 two table-spoonfuls of this may be put into half 
 a tumblerful of water, and stirred briskly with 
 a third of a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda. 
 Drink during effervescence. Probable cost, 
 2s. 2d. for this quantity. Sufficient, two table- 
 spoonfuls for a tumbler. 
 
 CREAM, SUBSTITUTE FOR. 
 
 Beat the yolks of two eggs, and mix them with 
 half a pint of milk. Strain the mixture into a 
 saucepan, and stir it until it is heated, but do 
 not let it boil. Sweeten slightly. When cold, 
 it is ready to serve. This may be used either 
 for tea or tarts. Time, a few minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, 3d. Sufficient for nearly three- 
 quarters of a pint. 
 CREAM TOASTS. 
 
 Cut a pound of French roll into slices as thick 
 as a finger, and lay them in a dish. Pour over 
 them half a pint of cream, and a quarter of a 
 pint of milk, and sprinkle some crushed lump, 
 sugar and cinnamon on their surface. When 
 the pieces of bread are soaked in the cream, re- 
 move them, dip the slices in some raw eggs, 
 and fry them brown in butter. Time, ten min- 
 utes to fry. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 CREAM, VANILLA. 
 
 Mix the well-beaten yolks of four eggs with a 
 pint and a half of thick cream or new milk, add 
 three table-spoonfuls of sugar, and four or five 
 drops of the essence of vanilla, and last of all 
 the white of one egg beaten to a firm froth. 
 Put the mixture into a jug, place the jug in a, 
 saucepan of cold water, and let it simmer gently, 
 stirring the contents of the jug all the time, 
 ;Until the cream thickens. It must on no 
 account boil, or it will be full of lumps. Pour 
 it into custard-glasses, and strew a little finely- 
 sifted sugar on the top of each glass. Sufficient 
 for nearly a quart. Probable cost, 9d. for this 
 quantity, if made with milk. 
 
 CREAM, VANILLA (another way). 
 
 Simmer half a stick of vanilla in a pint of 
 milk for twenty minutes, or until the flavour is 
 thoroughly extracted, take out the vanilla, and 
 pour the boiling milk upon one ounce of isin- 
 glass, and stir it until the latter is quite dis- 
 solved. Now mix the yolks of six eggs with the 
 milk, put it in a saucepan, and stir it constantly 
 over the fire till it thickens, but it must not boil. 
 Strain it into a large basin, and add to it half a 
 pint of well-whipped cream, and a small glass of 
 brandy. Pour it into a well-oiled mould, and set 
 it on ice. To turn it out, dip the mould for a 
 moment into warm water. If it cannot be set 
 on ice, a little more isinglass may be added. 
 Time, three-quarters of an hour to prepare. 
 Probable cost, 28. 7d., exclusive of the brandy. 
 Sufficient for one quart mould. 
 
 CREAM, VELVET. 
 
 Cut three or four sponge biscuits into thin 
 slices, and spread on each a little apricot or 
 
CRE 
 
 162 
 
 CRE 
 
 greengage jam. Pour over them a glass of 
 sherrVj and the juice of a lemon, and let them 
 stand to soak. Dissolve half an ounce of isin- 
 glass in a cupful of water, put it with a pint of 
 cream, and two table-spoonfuls of sugar into a 
 saucepan, and let it simmer gently for ten 
 minutes, strain it into a jug, and, when nearly 
 cold, pour it from a good height upon the fruit 
 and spongecake. When stiff, it is ready to 
 serve. Probable cost, 2s. 8d. Sufficient for a 
 good-sized dish. 
 
 CREAM, WHIPPED. 
 
 The white of one egg should be allowed for 
 every pint of good, thick cream. If this cannot 
 be procured, more eggs must be used. A good- 
 looking dish may be made by boiling a quart of 
 milk down to a pint, and mixing with it the 
 whites of three eggs. Sweeten and flavour the 
 cream before using it. A plain whipped cream 
 is made by rubbing the rind of a lemon 
 upon three ounces of loaf sugar, and pound- 
 ing it in a mortar, then mixing it with a 
 glass of sherry or half a glass of brandy, the 
 white of an egg beaten to a solid froth, and 
 afterwards with the cream. Whip it to a froth 
 with a scrupulously clean whisk. As it rises, 
 take it off by table-spoonfuls, and put it 
 on a sieve to drain. It is a good plan to whip 
 the cream the day before it is wanted, as it is 
 so much firmer. It should be made in a cool 
 place, and kept in the same. It may be served 
 in a variety of ways, either in glasses, or in a 
 glass dish, when it should be prettily garnished, 
 or surrounded by spongecake, macaroons, or 
 ratafias. A spongecake may ' be made in the 
 shape of a hollow cylinder, and filled with as 
 much whipped cream as it will hold. Its ap- 
 pearance is improved by colouring part of it 
 l)efore whipping it (see Coloueing). Many per- 
 sons dissolve a tea-spoonful of powdered gum 
 arable in a little orange-flower water, and add 
 this to the cream. It keeps the froth firmer. 
 Double cream may be simply whipped by whisk- 
 ing it with a wire whisk until it thickens. If 
 beaten too long it will turn. 
 
 CREAM, WHIPPED, WITH CHOCOLATE. 
 
 Make two ounces of best chocolate into a 
 paste with a little boiling water. Mix it gradu- 
 ally and smoothly with one pint of cream, 
 sweetened, and two tea-spoonfuls of dissolved 
 gum arable (if this is used see the previous 
 recipe) ; boil and cool, then add the whites of , 
 three eggs beaten to a froth. Half fill the 
 glasses, and whip the remainder into froth ; 
 fill them up, and keep in a cool place till 
 ■wanted. Double cream is the best for this 
 purpose. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for 
 eight or ten glasses; 
 
 CREAM, WHIPPED, WITH COFFEE. 
 
 Mix a table-spoonful of a strong infusion of 
 coffee in a pint of cream, sweeten it rather 
 liberally, and whip it as in the last recipe. It 
 will be of a light brown colour. If this is 
 objected to, it may be obtained free from colour 
 by roasting freshly two ounces of coffee-berries. 
 When they are lightly browned, throw them at 
 once into the cream, and let it stand for an hour 
 before using. Strain, and whip as before. 
 Serve in glasses. Double cream is the best for 
 
 this purpose. Sufficient for eight or ten glasses. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 
 
 CREAM, WHIPPED, WITH LIQUEUR. 
 
 Proceed exactly as before, flavouring the 
 cream, before whipping it, with any liqueur that 
 may be wished. Double cream is the best for 
 this purpose. Probable cost. Is. 8d., exclusive 
 of the liqueur. Sufficient for eight or ten glasses. 
 
 CREAM, WHIPPED, WITH VANILLA 
 
 Boil half a pod of vanilla in a oupfm of new 
 milk for twenty minutes. Strain, and add it to 
 a pint of thick cream. Sweeten with two table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar, and mix in the whites of 
 three eggs beaten to a firm froth. Three or four 
 drops of vanilla essence may be put with the 
 cream instead of boiling the pod. Choose a cool 
 place for work of this kind. Probable cost, about 
 Is. lOd. Sufficient to fill eight or ten glasses. 
 
 CREAMED TARTLETS. 
 
 Line some tartlet-tins with good puff paste, 
 and put rather less jam on them than is usual. 
 Place a little good custard over the jam, and 
 on the top of the custard an icing made by 
 mixing a table-spoonful of sifted white sugar 
 with the white of one egg whisked to a solid 
 froth. Place a little of this over each tartlet 
 and bake in a moderate oven for about twenty 
 minutes. Probable cost, 2d. each. Sufficient, 
 six or eight for a dish. 
 
 CREME D'ORGE. 
 
 Boil gently a cupful of pearl barley in one 
 pint of milk and one pint of water until quite 
 tender. Strain off the liquid (which, if sweet- 
 ened and flavoured, will be a refreshing and 
 wholesome drink for a child or sick person), 
 and mix with the barley a pint of cream, three 
 table-spoonfuls of sugar, a piece of fresh butter 
 the size of an egg, two eggs well beaten, and a 
 quarter of a nutmeg grated. Return the mixture 
 to the saucepan, and let it simmer gently for 
 an hour. Stir it frequently. It may be either 
 served in custard-glasses, or put into a buttered 
 dish and baked in a moderate oven. If baked, 
 four eggs may be used. Probable cost. Is. 8d. 
 Sufficient for flve or six persons. 
 
 CRfeME D'ORGE, SOUP OF. 
 
 Cut three-quarters of a pound of veal and half 
 a pound of beef into small pieces. Put them 
 into a saucepan with two ounces of pearl barley 
 and two quarts of cold water, bring it to a boil, 
 skim thoroughly, and simmer as gently as pos- 
 sible for three hours. Then rub the whole 
 through a sieve. Add pepper and salt, and 
 any other seasoning that may be fancied. The 
 soup should be of the consistency of thick 
 cream. Probable cost, lOd. per pint. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 
 CRESS SAUCE (for Fish and Poultry). 
 
 Wash some cress carefully. Pick it from the 
 stalks, and boil it for about ten minutes. Drain 
 it, mince it very finely, and stir it into a little 
 melted butter. Serve in a tureen. Sufficient, 
 a handful of cress for half a pint of sauce. Cost, 
 6d. per pint. 
 
 CRESSY (OR CRECY) SOUP. 
 
 Wash clean, prepare, and slice eight carrots, 
 eight turnips, eight small onions stuck with 
 
CRI 
 
 163 
 
 CRO 
 
 one or two CiOves, a small tea-spoonful of celery- 
 seed, bruised and tied in a muslin bag, and a 
 slice of lean ham cut into pieces. Put these 
 into a stewpan with a piece of butter the size 
 of a large egg, move them constantly, and when 
 ■they are nicely browned, add, a little at a time, 
 "three quarts of good stock (see Stock). If it is 
 necessary to use fresh meat, two pounds of the 
 ■shin of beef boiled gently in four quarts of 
 water for three hours will answer the purpose. 
 Simmer until the vegetables are quite tender. 
 Press them through a coarse sieve with the back 
 of a spoon, return them to the saucepan, season 
 'with pepper and salt, and boil twenty minutes 
 longer. The soup should be of the consistency 
 of cream. A little boiled rice may be put into 
 the tureen, and the soup poured on it. Time, 
 ■two hours, if the stock or gravy be already 
 prepared. Sufficient -for eight or ten persons. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d., exclusive of the stock 
 or gravy. 
 
 CRISP BISCUITS. 
 
 A -very stiff dough is required for these bis- 
 cuits. To one pound and a half of flour add 
 the yolks of two small eggs, and as much milk 
 as will bring it to the required consistency. 
 Beat and knead the paste till it is quite, smooth, 
 and, when rolled out thiii, make, it into sniall 
 biscuits with a tin cutter, and bake these in a 
 slow oven about fifteen minutes. Probable 
 cost, about 6d. 
 
 CRISPED PARSLEY. 
 
 Wash some young parsley j pick away the 
 decayed or brown leaves, and shake it in a cloth 
 till it, is quite dry. Spread it on a sheet of 
 paper, and put it in a Dutch oven before a clear 
 ire; turn it vWy often until it is quite crisp. 
 Time, about a quarter of an hour. Sufficient, 
 a little to garnish a dish. 
 
 CROQUANT PASTE. 
 
 Mix two ounces of finely-sifted loaf sugar 
 ■with a quarter of a pound of fine fiour. Add the 
 well-beaten yolks of eggs till it forms a stifE 
 paste. Roll it out about the eighth of an inch 
 in thickness, and, with an ordinary pastry 
 cutter, cut it out into pretty little shapes. Let 
 these dry a short time, then brush them over 
 with tne white of an egg, sift a little sugar 
 over them, place them on a tin, and bake them 
 for a few minutes in a moderate oven. Take 
 them from the tin before they are cold, and 
 place them on the tartlets, etc., for which they 
 are intended. Sufficient, two or three for a 
 small dish of pastry. Probable cost, 4d. for 
 this quantity. 
 
 CROQUETTES. 
 
 These useful little dishes are made of minced 
 meat, poultry, fish^ etc., highly seasoned, mixed 
 with a little sauce, dipped in egg and bread- 
 crumbs, fried until crisp, and served with any 
 sauce. They differ from rissoles only in this, 
 that the latter are covered with good puff paste 
 "before frying, and croquettes are rolled in egg 
 and bread-crumbs. They should be well drained 
 from the fat before serving, then piled high 
 on a hot napkin, and the sauce sent to table in 
 a tureen. Though they are often made of fresh 
 Tueat, they are chiefly useful for cold. It will 
 he evident that nearly everything depends upon 
 
 the seasoning.' Though there are numberless 
 names for them, from the materials of which 
 they are made, or the sauces with which they are 
 served, the general idea in all is the same — a 
 savoury mince, moistened with sauce, if neces- 
 sary bound together with the yolk of egg, 
 dipped in beaten egg, rolled in bread-crumbs, 
 ana fried crisp. 
 
 CROQUETTES (au Financiere). 
 
 Mince very finely the livers of two fowls, a 
 sweetbread, a shallot, six small mushrooms, and 
 two truffles. Season rather highly with pepper 
 and salt. Put one ounce of butter into a stew- 
 pan, let it melt,- then mix with it very smoothly 
 and slowly a table-spoonful of fiour. When it is 
 lightly browned, add the mince and an ounce 
 of butter, and simmer for ten minutes, stirring 
 all the time. Drain off the fat, add a glass of 
 light wine to the mixture, and simmer it gently 
 for" a few minutes longer. When it is cold and 
 stiff, mould it into sBiall balls, and fry these in 
 the usual way. Half a dozen oysters, finely 
 minced, are sometimes added. Sprinkle a little 
 salt over croquettes before serving them. 
 Time.to iry, ten minutes. Probable cost, sweet- 
 bread, from Is. to 4s. Sufficient, allow one or 
 two croquettes for each person. 
 
 CROQUETTES OF FOWL. 
 
 Take the remains of a cold fowl, and mince it 
 very finely; put it in a saucepan with a little 
 gravy, a little salt, pepper, and pounded mace, 
 and a table-spoonful of cream. Let the whole 
 boil, stirring it well all the time, and, if neces- 
 sary, thicken it with a little flour, or a few bread- 
 crumbs. When Cold and firm, roil it into balls 
 about the size of a walnut, dip them in egg and 
 bread-crumbs; do this once or twice, and fry 
 them in plenty of hot dripping until they are 
 lightly browned; pile them on a napkin and 
 garnish with crisped parsley (see Ceisped- 
 Parsley). Time to fry, ten minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold meat. 
 Allow two or three for each person. 
 
 CROQUETTES OF RICE. 
 
 Put a quarter of a pound of rice, one pint of 
 milk, ttree table-spoonfuls of finely-sifted sugar, 
 a piece of butter the size of a small nut, and 
 the tnin rind of a lemon, into a saucepan. Any 
 
 CUOaUETTES OF FOWL. 
 
 other flavouring may be used, if preferred. 
 Simmer gently until the rice is tender and the 
 milk absorbed. It must be boiled until thick 
 and dry, or it will be difficult to mould into 
 croquettes. Beat it thoroughly for three or 
 four minutes, then turn it out, and when it is 
 cold and stiff, form it into small balls, dip these 
 in egg, sprinkle a few bread-crumbs over them» 
 
CRO 
 
 164 
 
 CRO 
 
 and fry them in clarified fat till they are lightly 
 and equally browned. Put them on a piece of 
 clean blotting-paper, to drain the fat from 
 them, and serve them piled high on the dish. 
 If it can be done without breaking them, it is 
 an improvement to introduce a little jam into 
 the middle of each one; or jam may be served 
 with them. Time, about one hour to boil the 
 rice, ten minutes to fry the croquettes. Suf- 
 ficient, a dozen for a dish. Probable cost, 4d., 
 without the jam. 
 
 CROQUETTES, VOL-AU-VENT OF. 
 
 Make some extremely light puff paste ; roll it 
 out (very evenly, or it will not rise properly) 
 about a quarter of an inch thick, stamp it 
 to the size and shape of the bottom of 
 the dish in which you intend to send it to 
 table; roll the paste again, and stamp another 
 shape, four times as thick as the first ; place it 
 on the top of the other, fastening it at the 
 edges with yolk of egg. Make a slight incision 
 nearly through the pastry all round the top 
 about an inch from the edge. Bake it in a 
 brish oven (this is important) until lightly 
 browned, at once take out the paste inside the 
 centre, remove the soft crumb from the middle, 
 but be careful not to break the edges. Keep it 
 in a warm place, and, when wanted, fill it with 
 croquettes (see Croquettes au Financieeb) 
 Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 
 depends upon the size. A vol-au-vent should 
 never be made large. 
 
 CROUSTADES, OR DRESDEN PATTIES. 
 
 ' These are patties made very much of the same 
 shape as vol-au-vents, bread being used instead 
 of puff paste. They are best made as follows. 
 Cut thick slices from a French roll, scoop a 
 hollow in the centre, and fry them in hot fat 
 till they are lightly browned. Drain, and dry 
 them in the oven for a few minutes. They 
 should then be filled with very nicely-seasoned 
 mince, moistened with a little stiff white 
 sauce. The crust of the roll may be removed 
 or not before frying. Time to fry, ten min- 
 utes. Probable cost, rolls. Id. each. Suf- 
 ficient, allow one croustade for each person. 
 
 CROUSTADES, OR DRESDEN PATTIES (another 
 way). 
 Croustades are very nice cut from a French 
 roll, as above, then dipped in a little milk, and 
 drained, brushed over with egg, dipped in 
 bread-crumbs, and fried. They may be filled 
 either with sweets or a savoury mince. Care 
 must be taken not to break them. Time to fry, 
 a few minutes. 
 
 croOte-au-pot. 
 
 Put six pounds of fresh beef, top ribs or shin 
 for preference, into a stock-pot. Soak this meat 
 with ten quarts of bouillon. Boil and skim 
 well; afterwards adding two carrots, one 
 turnip, two leeks, one onion, a little celery, and 
 half a parsnip. Boil once more and thoroughly 
 remove all the scum. In about an hour's time 
 add some hot roasted poultry, as well as a piece 
 of knuckle of veal; you may also use any veal, 
 poiiltry, or beef bones there may be, only care 
 must be taken to have them ready roasted at 
 the moment they are to be put into the stock- 
 pot, 80 as to give the bouillon the desired 
 
 flavour. They must not be burnt, or too much 
 soaked, for such would only spoil the consomme 
 by giving it a dark colour and acid taste. When 
 the meat and vegetables are removed skim the 
 bouillon, and after letting it stand for a few 
 minutes pass it gently through a cloth and keep 
 it hot. The garnish for the Croute-au-Pot is 
 prepared in the following manner. Take a 
 small cabbage and clean it thoroughly, remove 
 all the leaves which are too green, or not fresh ; 
 then cut off the stalk and divide the cabbage 
 into four pieces, afterwards removing the inner 
 portion of the stalk. Blanch it in salt water for 
 a few minutes, then strain off all the liquid and 
 put the cabbage into a saucepan of suitable 
 size, covering it with some of the stock on which 
 a little fat remains. Above this there should be 
 placed a piece of buttered paper, and after put- 
 ting on the lid, the pan should be left in the 
 oven for about an hour. By this time the cab- 
 bage will be suflEiciently cooked, and after 
 pressing lightly to drain off the fluid, cut it 
 into shreds. Place these shreds in a saucepan 
 and cover with a layer of shredded carrots, leeks, 
 and turnips which have been cooked in the 
 bouillon, finishing with the remainder of the 
 cabbage. After this is done pour a little stock 
 over the whole, and garnish all round with 
 sippets of bread. Probable cost of the Croute- 
 au-Pot, with garnish, 4s. 6d. 
 
 CROUTE-AUX-CHAMPIGNON& 
 
 From a stale loaf cut the crust rather more 
 than an inch in thickness, toast and butter it. 
 Put a piece of butter the size of a large egg into 
 a saucepan; let it melt, then put into it three 
 dozen button mushrooms, first cutting off the 
 ends of the stalks, and paring them neatly. 
 Strew over them a little pepper and salt, and 
 aad the juice of half a lemon. Stew them 
 gently for twenty-five minutes, shaking the pan 
 frequently. Grate a quarter of a nutmeg over 
 them, and add a tea-spoonful of flour mixed 
 with a cupful of milk. Let them simmer five 
 minutes longer, pour them over the toast, and 
 serve hot. A little good stock may be used 
 instead of the milk if preferred. Suflicient for 
 five or six persons. Probable cost, mushrooms, 
 6d. to 2s. per pint. 
 
 CROUTONS. 
 
 Cut some slices of the crumb of bread half an 
 inch in thickness, into any shape, round, oval, 
 or square, that may be preferred, and fry them 
 in hot clarified fat till they are lightly browned. 
 Drain them from the fat and they are ready to 
 serve. They are used for garnish. Time to 
 fry, five minutes. 
 
 CROGtONS {k l-Artois). 
 
 Fry some croutons (see the preceding recipe). 
 Pour over them a puree of young peas (see Peas, 
 PUBEE op), thinned with a little stock, and 
 seasoned with salt and pepper. Serve as hot as 
 possible. Time, five minutes to fry the crou- 
 tons. SufRcient, a quart of puree for four or 
 five persons. Probable cost of peas, when in 
 full season, 6d. per peck. 
 
 CROUTONS, OLIVE. 
 
 Cut some neat rounds of bread, and fry them 
 in butter; then spread upon them a layer of 
 ItaUan sausage, and pile on the top some 
 
CRU 
 
 165 
 
 CRU 
 
 choppea olives. Ornament with butter put on 
 artistically through a forcing bag. Probable 
 cost, 9d. for twelve. 
 
 CRULLERS. 
 
 Beat a quarter of a pound of fresh butter to 
 a cream. Add half a pound of sugar, a pinch of 
 salt, five well-beaten eggs, one table-spoonful 
 of ground cinnamon,, two table-spoonfuls of 
 brandy, and a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda. 
 Beat all together thoroughly for some minutes, 
 then add as much flour as will make a soft 
 dough. Cut it in strips about three inches long 
 and one wide, twist these and drop them into a 
 little boiling lard. When they are lightly 
 browned, they are done enough. Drain them, 
 and serve with a little pounded sugar strewn 
 over them. Time, ten minutes to fry the 
 crullers. Probable cost. Is. 6d. for this quan- 
 tity. 
 
 CRUMBS, FRIED BREAD (with which to dredge 
 Hams or Bacon). 
 Pla<;e a crust of bread in a cool oven ; when it 
 is crisp and brown, roll it into dust with a 
 rolliug-pin, pass it through a coarse sieve, and 
 bottle the powder until wanted. Or, put the 
 crumbs of bread into a frying-pan with a little 
 clarified butter, stir them constantly till they 
 are brightly browned, and drain them before the 
 fire. 'Kme to fry, five or six minutes ; time to 
 brown the crust, it should be left all night in a 
 cool oven. 
 
 CRUIMBS, SUBSTITUTE FOR. 
 
 Some cooks, when frying fish, substitute oat- 
 meal for grated bread-crumbs. It costs com- 
 paratively nothing, and requires no preparation. 
 
 CRUMPET AND MUFFIN PUDDING. 
 
 Butter a plain round mould, and place in it 
 alternately two muifins and three crumpets. 
 Split open the muffins and put a little red cur- 
 rant jelly in each. Pour over them a light 
 "batter, cover the mould closely, and boil or 
 steam for an hour and a half. Probable cost, 
 8d. Sufficient for five persons. 
 
 CRUMPETS. 
 
 Warm one pint of new milk and one ounce of 
 butter in a saucepan ; when the butter melts, 
 take it from the fire, let it cool a little, and mix 
 ■with it a beaten egg, a pinch of salt, and flour 
 enough to make it into a batter ; lastly, put with 
 it a quarter of a pint of fresh yeast. Cover it, 
 and let it stand in a warm place for a quarter of 
 an hour. Bake the crumpets slightly on an iron 
 plate made for the purpose, and well greased. 
 If this is not at hand, they may be baked in the 
 frying-pan. When one side appears sufficiently 
 cooked turn them quickly on the other. Crum- 
 pets may, however, be bought for a trifling ex- 
 pense, and as they take a. good deal of trouble 
 to prepare, it does not seem worth while to make 
 them at home when they can be purchased. 
 They should be toasted and plentifully but- 
 tered ; they will be soft and woolly, and rather 
 like a blanket soaked in butter. Time to bake, 
 . about ten minutes. Probable cost, Jd. each. 
 Allow two for each person. 
 
 CRUST, BUTTER, FOR BOILED PUDDINGS. 
 
 Put one pound of flour, a pinch of salt, and 
 half a tea-spoonful of baking-powder into a 
 
 basin, mix them well, then rub into them six 
 ounces of fresh butter. Work the mixture with 
 a knife or fork into a paste by the addition of 
 half a pint of water. Roll it out once or twice, 
 and it will be ready for use. Butter must be 
 used for pudding-crust when suet is disliked, 
 as lard is not nice for boiled puddings. If a 
 richer crust is preferred, another ounce or two 
 of butter may be added, but for ordinary pud- 
 dings the crust iust described is excellent. 
 Time, a quarter of an hour to prepare. Prob- 
 able cost, 6d. per pound. Sufficient, one pound 
 for a pudding large enough for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 CRUST, COMMON, FOR RAISED PIES. 
 
 Melt a quarter of a pound of butter and a 
 quarter of a pound of lard in half a pint of 
 water. Put two pounds of flour into a basin, 
 and when the butter and lard are melted in the 
 water, pour them into the fiour, stirring it all 
 the time. Work the mixture with the hands 
 to a stiff paste, and, in order to keep it soft, 
 put the portion which is not being worked 
 upon a plate over a saucepan of hot water. 
 Probable cost, 5d. per pound 
 
 CRUST, DRIPPING, FOR KITCHEN PIES. 
 
 Rub six ounces of nicely-clarified beef drip- 
 ping into a pound of flour. Add a pinch of salt, 
 a small tea-spoonful of baking-powder, and a 
 table-spoonful of sugar. Make the mixture 
 into a stiff smooth paste by stirring cold water 
 into it, and roll it out once only. It is then 
 ready for use. Time to prepare, twenty min- 
 utes. Probable cost, 4d. per pound. 
 
 CRUST FOR FRENCH TARTS, RICH. 
 
 Crumble four ounces of butter into halt & 
 pound of flour, add a pinch of salt, a tea- 
 spoonful of sifted sugar, and sufficient cold 
 water to make it into a light paste. Roll it 
 well three times, fold it each time, and touch 
 it very lightly. The less handling it has the 
 better it will be. Time, twenty minutes to 
 prepare. Probable cost. Is. per pound. 
 
 CRUST FOR FRUIT TARTS. 
 
 Mix a pinch of salt and two table-spoonfuls 
 of sifted sugar with a pound of dry flour. Break 
 six ounces of fresh butter into small pieces, 
 crumble it into the fiour, and work it into a 
 smooth paste with a little new milk. Roll it 
 out two or three times, and in doing so, add two 
 ounces more of butter, and touch it with the 
 hands as little as possible. Bake in a moderate 
 oven. Time to prepare, twenty minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, 9d. per pound. 
 
 CRUST, GOOD. 
 
 Mix two table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar and 
 a pinch of salt in a pound of fiour, rub into it 
 six ounces of butter, and mix the whole lightly 
 together with a fork by adding the yolks of two 
 eggs and sufficient water to work it into a 
 smooth paste. Time, twenty minutes to pre- 
 pare. Probable cost. Is. per pound. 
 
 CRUST, LARD. 
 
 Rub half a pound of lard into a pound of 
 flour, add a pinch of salt, and make it into a 
 paste by mixing with it a cupful of water. The 
 unmelted lard, freed from skin and thinly sliced, 
 makes very good pastry; but a mixture of lard 
 
CRU 
 
 166 
 
 cue 
 
 ■and dripping, or lard and butter, makes a better 
 crust than lard alone. Time to prepare, 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. 
 
 CRUST, P&TE BRIS£e. 
 
 Pate Brisee, the short, crisp crust which is so 
 much used by the French for pies, is made by 
 working the butter, lard, or suet thoroughly 
 into the flour, which must be very dry, before it 
 is moistened; six ounces of butter, a pinch of 
 salt, and a small cupful of water may be allowed 
 for every pound of flour, and if it is to be used 
 for raised pies, it must be made rather stiff. 
 Time to prepare, twenty minutes. Probable 
 cost, 6d. per pound. 
 
 CRUST, SHORT, COMMON. 
 
 Mix two table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar, a 
 pinch of salt, and a heaped tea-spoonful of 
 baking-powder with one pound of dry flour. 
 fiub into it three ounces of good beef dripping, 
 and work it into a smooth paste with water or 
 new milk. Handle it as little as possible. Bake 
 in a moderate oven. Probable cost, 4d. per 
 pound. 
 CRUST, SUET, FOR PUDDINGS. 
 
 Allow six or eight ounces of suet and a pinch 
 of salt for every pound of flour. Carefully re- 
 move the skin from the suet, and shred it as 
 finely as possible, strewing a little flour over it 
 two or three times to prevent its sticking to- 
 gether. Mix it with the flour, and work it into 
 a firm paste with a little cold water. Probable 
 cost, 4d. per pound 
 CUCUMBER. 
 
 This delicious fruit is in season from April to 
 September. Though it may be served in vari- 
 ous ways, it is never so good as when eaten raw. 
 Many persons object to it on account of its be- 
 ing so indigestible, and certainly tTiis is the 
 case; but we believe it would be found to be 
 less so if the rind were eaten with the cucumber. 
 If the stalk end be kept standing in cold water, 
 and the water be changed every day, cucumbers 
 will keep hard for a week or two. 
 
 CUCUMBER, BOILED. 
 
 Peel a cucumber, but do not take out the 
 seeds, cut it into convenient pieces for serving, 
 and put into boiling water with a little salt. 
 Boil for twenty minutes, then drain, and cover 
 with white sauce. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 CUCUMBER KETCHUP. 
 
 Cucumber ketchup is useful for flavouring 
 sauces which are to be served with rather taste- 
 less meats, such as rabbits, veal, swejetbreads, 
 calf's brains, etc. It is made by paring and 
 mashing cucumbers, sprinkling salt over them, 
 and leaving them for some hours to draw out 
 the juice, which is then strained, and boiled 
 with a liberal allowance of seasoning. The 
 ketchup must be kept in bottles and closely 
 corked. Time, twenty-four hours to extract 
 the juice. Sufficient, two dessert-spoonfuls of 
 ketchup for half a pint of sauce. Probable cost 
 of cucumbers, when plentiful, 6d. each. 
 
 CUCUMBER MANGOES. 
 
 Choose large, green cucumbers, not very ripe, 
 cut a long narrow strip out of the side of each, 
 and scoop out the seeds with a tea-spoon. Pound 
 a few of these with a little scraped hdl'se-radish. 
 
 finely-shredded garlic, mustard-seed, and white 
 pepper ; stuff the hollows out of which the seeds 
 came as full as they will hold, replace the strips, 
 and bind them in their places with a little 
 thread. Boil as much vinegar as will cover 
 them, and pour it on them while hot; rejjeat 
 this for three days. The last time boil the vine- 
 gar with half an ounce of mace, half an ounce 
 of cloves, two ounces of pepper, two ounces of 
 mustard-seed, a stick of horse-radish, and one 
 clove of garlic to every half gallon of vinegar. 
 Put the cucumbers into jars, pour the boiling 
 liquid over them, tie the jars closely down, and 
 set them aside for use. Time, four days. Prob 
 able cost of cucumbers, 6d. each when in fuL 
 
 CUCUMBER SAUCE. 
 
 Take three young cucumbers, slice them 
 rather thickly, and fry them in a little butter 
 till they are lightly browned. Dredge them, 
 with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and sim- 
 mer them till tender in as much good brown 
 gravy as will cover them. White sauce or melted 
 butter may be substituted for the gravy if these 
 are more suitable for the dish with which the 
 cucumber sauce is to be served. Time, about a 
 quarter of an hour to simmer the cucumbers. 
 Probable cost, small cucumbers, 4d. each. Suf- 
 ficient, three young cucumbers for one pint of 
 sauce. 
 
 CUCUMBER SAUCE, WHITE. 
 
 Peel a large cucumber, cut it into small pieces, 
 and take out the pips. Simmer the pieces 
 gently in a little salt and water until quite 
 tender, then drain them, and stew them for a 
 few minutes longer in good white sauce, in 
 which they must be served. Time, half an hour. 
 Probable cost, Is. for half a pint. Sufficient for 
 a small dish. 
 
 CUCUMBER SOUP. 
 
 Cut the cucumbers into slices, strew a little 
 salt over them, and place them between two 
 plates to drain off the juice. Put them into a 
 saucepan, and cover them with some good white 
 stock. Simmer them gently for forty minutes, 
 then add as much more stock as may be re- 
 quired, and a little sorrel. Season with salt 
 and cayenne, and thicken the soup with ground 
 rice or arrowroot. When it boils, draw it from 
 the fire for a minute or two, and add a pint of 
 milk mixed with the yolks of two eggs. The 
 soup must not, of course, boil after the eggs 
 are added. Time, about one hour. Prob^le 
 cost. Is. 6d. per quart. Allow one large cucum- 
 ber for three pints of soup, including half a 
 pint of milk. 
 
 CUCUMBER, STUFFED. 
 
 Peel a large cucumber, remove a narrow piece 
 from the side, and scoop out the seeds with a 
 tea-spoon. Fill the cavity with nicely-flavoured 
 forcemeat, replace the piece, and bind it round 
 with strong white thread. Line the bottom of 
 a saucepan with slices of meat and bacon, put 
 the cucumber upon it, and then two or three 
 more slices. Cover the whole with nicely- 
 flavoured stock, and if more vegetables are de- 
 sired, two or three sliced carrots, turnips, and 
 onions may be added. Season with salt and 
 pepper, and simmer gently, until cucumber. 
 
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 1G7 
 
 cue 
 
 meat, and vegetables are sufficiently cooked. 
 If the cucumber is tender before the rest, it 
 ehould be taken out, and kept hot. Thicken 
 the gravy with a little butter and flour, and 
 pour it over the cucumber. Time, about one 
 hour. Probable cost of cucumber, 6d, or Is. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 CUCUMBER VINEGAR. 
 
 Wipe as many cucumbers as you may intend 
 to use, slice them, without paring them, into a 
 wide-mouthed bottle, and put with them two or 
 three shallots, if the flavour is liked. Pour 
 over them as much vinegar as will cover them, 
 and add a clove of garlic, a tea^spoonful of 
 white pepper, and a tea-spoonful of salt for 
 every quart of vinegar. Let them infuse for 
 eleven or twelve days, then strain the vinegar 
 into small bottles, and cork these tightly. 
 Cucumber vinegar is very good to flavour salads, 
 hashes, etc., or to eat with cold meat. The 
 young leaves of burnet when soaked in vinegar 
 give just the same flavour as cucumber. Prob- 
 able cost of cucumbers, 6d. each when in full 
 season. As much vinegar should be poured over 
 as will just cover the sUces. 
 
 CUCUMBERS (k la Crime). 
 
 Peel two cucumbers as thinly as possible; 
 split each in two lengthways and remove the 
 seeds; then cut the pieces into cubes of equal 
 size. Cook them in salted water for fifteen 
 minutes, take up, and drain on a sieve. Put 
 the cooked cucumber in a stewpan with one 
 ounce of butter,* season with salt, pepper, and 
 nutmeg, add a tea-spoonful of castor sugar and 
 half a gill of cream, and bring to the boil, 
 shaking the pan well. Dish up, sprinkle a 
 little chopped parsley over, and serve hot. 
 Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 
 CUCUMBERS (a I'Espagnole). 
 
 Cut the cucumbers into pieces about two 
 inches long and one inch wide, remove the seeds, 
 strew a little salt over them, and let them 
 remain between two plates for an hour or more. 
 Drain off the juice, and put them into a sauce- 
 pan, cover them with good stock, and let them 
 simmer gently until quite tender, which will be 
 in about twenty minutes. Drain them, pile 
 them on a dish, pour some good brown sauce 
 over them, and serve. Time, one hour. Prob- 
 able cost of cucumbers, 6d. each. Sufficient, 
 one large cucumber for half a pint of sauce. 
 
 CUCUMBERS (4 la Poulette). 
 
 Peel two small, young cucumbers, remove 
 the seeds, cut the fruit into pieces about one 
 inch thick and two inches long, stew these till 
 tender in water with a little salt and vinegar in 
 it; drain them. Put into a stewpan one ounce 
 of butter and three-quarters of an ounce of 
 flour; mix the butter and flour well, and let 
 them remain about three minutes. Add gradu- 
 ally one pint of nicely-flavoured stock. Sim- 
 mer gently for fifteen minutes. Put in the 
 cucumbers, with a seasoning of salt and pepper, 
 and in a minute or so two table-spoonfuls of 
 cream. Draw the sauce from the fire, and, just 
 before serving it, add the well-beaten yolks of 
 two eggs and the juice of half a lemon. Time, 
 one hour. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for 
 one pint and a half . 
 
 CUCUMBERS, FRIED. 
 
 Take the rind from the cucumbers, slice them, 
 dredge over them a little pepper, and lay them 
 in flour. Make some butter very hot, put in the 
 slices, and when they are tender and lightly 
 browned, strew a very little salt over them ; 
 drain them, and place them on a hot dish 
 under the steak or hash with which they 
 are to be served. Time, ten minutes. Prob- 
 able cost of cucumbers, 6d. each. Sufficient, 
 one small cucumber for one pound of rump 
 steak. 
 
 CUCUMBERS, PICKLED. 
 
 If the cucumbers are very young and small 
 they may be pickled whole, if not, they are 
 •better cut into thick slices. Sprinkle salt 
 rather plentifully over them, and let them re- 
 main twenty-four hours. Drain them from the 
 juice, dry them in a cloth, and pour over them 
 boiling vinegar, with half an ounce of mustard- 
 seed, one ounce of salt, one ounce of long pep- 
 per, half a bruised nutmeg, and a pinch of 
 cayenne to every quart of vinegar. Cover them 
 closely, and let them remain until next day, 
 when the vinegar must again be boiled and 
 poured over the cucumbers, and this process re- 
 peated each day for four days. They should 
 then be covered closely, and care should be 
 taken with these, as with all pickles, that they 
 are thoroughly covered with vinegar. It is best 
 to pickle cucumbers by themselves, as they are 
 apt to become mouldy. If any sign of this 
 appears (and they should be looked at every 
 three or four weeks to ascertain it, and on this 
 account should be kept in a wide-mouthed glass 
 bottle instead of an earthen jar), put them into 
 a fresh dry bottle, boil the vinegar up again, 
 and pour it over them. Time to pickle, one 
 week. Probable cost of cucumbers, 4d. to 6d. 
 each. 
 
 CUCUMBERS, PRESERVED (An excellent Sweet- 
 meat for Dessert). 
 Choose cucumbers that are young, fresh, and 
 nearly free from seeds, split them, cut the pieces 
 across, take out the seeds, and lay them for 
 three days in brine strong enough to bear an 
 egg. Put over them a cabbage-leaf or vine- 
 leaves to keep them down, and place a cover 
 over the dish. At the end of that time take 
 them out, wash them in cold water, and set 
 them on the fire with cold water and a tiny 
 lump of alum. As the water heats, keep adding 
 a little more alum, until the cucumbers are a 
 bright green, which they ought to be in a short 
 time, and if they are not, change the water again 
 and let them heat as before, but they must not 
 boil. Drain them, and when cool pour over them 
 a syrup, made by boiling a quart of water, a- 
 stick of cinnamon, one ounce of ground ginger, 
 and one pound of loaf sugar for every pound of 
 cucumber. Boil the cinnamon and ginger in 
 the water for an hour, then drain it and add 
 the sugar, and boil to a thick syrup. Let the 
 cucumbers lie in this for two days, when the 
 syrup must be boiled for ten minutes with 
 them. Put the preparation into jars and leave 
 it until next day, when it must be covered 
 closely. These directions must be minutely 
 attended to, or the sweetmeat will not be a 
 success. Time, six days. 
 
cue 
 
 168 
 
 CUR 
 
 CUCUMBERS, STEWED. 
 
 Take two or three young fresh cucumbers. 
 Peel them, and cut them into quarters length- 
 ways, remove the seeds, dry them, dip them in 
 flour, and fry them in hot butter till they are 
 lightly browned. Lift them out with an egg- 
 sUce, drain them, and put them into a sauce- 
 pan with a tea-cupful of good brown gravy. 
 Season with pepper and salt, and stew them 
 gently until tender. Just before serving add a 
 dessert-spoonful of chilli vinegar and a small 
 lump of sugar. Time, half an hour. Probable 
 cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for a moderate-sized 
 dish. 
 
 CUCUMBERS, STEWED, WITH ONIONS. 
 
 Prepare the cucumbers as in the last recipe, 
 and fry with them an equal number of slices of 
 onion, being very careful that they do not 
 burn. Stew these in the gravy with the cucum- 
 bers. If the sauce would be preferred a little 
 richer, the yolks of two eggs might be added 
 to it, but of course if this were done the sauce 
 must not be allowed to boil after the addition. 
 Time, half an hour. Probable cost, la. 5d. 
 Sufficient for a moderate-sized dish. 
 
 CUCUMBERS, TO DRESS. 
 
 Pare the cucumber and cut it into thin slices, 
 or pare it round and round into ribands, leaving 
 out the watery part. Sprinkle a little salt over 
 them, and in a few minutes drain off the water 
 ■vhich exudes. Put the slices on a clean dish, and 
 pour a little oil and vinegar over them, and if 
 necessary add a httle more salt and pepper. 
 Many persons like a few slices of onion served 
 with the cucumber, or a tea-spoonful of the 
 vinegar in which onions have been pickled may 
 be added to the other vinegar. Probable cost, 
 cucumbers 6d. each, when in full season. 
 
 CUCUMBERS, TO KEEP, FOR WINTER USE 
 
 (German method). 
 Pare and slice the cucumbers. Sprinkle a 
 little salt over them, and cover them with a 
 dish. The next day drain off the liquor. Place 
 the slices of cucumber in a jar, with a little 
 salt between each layer, and tie them up. Be- 
 fore using rinse them in fresh water, and 
 dress them with pepper, oil, and vinegar. Time, 
 twenty-four hours to stand in salt. Probable 
 cost at cucumbers, 6d. each, when in full season. 
 
 CUCUMBERS, WITH ONIONS. 
 
 Peel the cucumbers and cut them into 
 quarters ; take out all the seeds, cub each 
 quarter into three pieces, and pare them round. 
 Peel as many small onions as you have pieces 
 ef cucumber ; put them into a marinade of 
 vinegar and water (half of each), pepper and 
 salt, for two hours. Then take them out of the 
 marinade, put them into a saucepan, add as 
 much stock as will barely cover them, boil 
 them down to a glaze ; add a little rich brown 
 gravy, boil a few minutes, add the juice of a 
 lemon and a little sugar. This is a good accom- 
 paniment to mutton or veal cutlets. Probable 
 cost. Is. I 
 
 CULLIS, OR RICH GRAVY. 
 
 Take the bones of a large leg of mutton, or of 
 a large piece of beef. A ham bone or a little 
 bacon rind may be added. Break into small 
 
 pieces and put into a large saucepan with five 
 pints of water. Bring to a boil, and let it 
 simmer very gently for five hours, being careful 
 that it keeps on simmering slowly all the time, 
 then strain it. Skim it carefully. If there be 
 time, leave it until the next day, so that the fat 
 may be entirely removed. Return it to the 
 saucepan, and put with it a large onion stuck 
 with three cloves, a bay-leaf, half a tea-spoon- 
 ful of bruised celery-seed tied in a musUn bag, 
 or a few sticks of celery, a large carrot sliced, 
 a bunch of savoury herbs, two tea-spoonfuls of 
 salt, a tea-spoonful of white pepper, and a 
 blade of mace. Simmer these gently for two 
 hours ; strain ; stir into the mixture a tea-spoon- 
 ful of Bovril and a little browning. Thicken 
 it with a table-spoonful of brown thick- 
 ening, or with from one to two table- 
 spoonfuls of flour mixed smoothly with a 
 little cold water and added gradually to the 
 contents of the saucepan, and let it simmer 
 twenty minutes longer. If too thick, a little 
 water may be added ; if not thick enough, stew 
 it a little longer. Strain it from the vegetables 
 before putting it aside. This gravy will keep a 
 week, but in hot weather it would be well to 
 boil it up once or twice. Time, eight hours. 
 Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the bones. 
 Sufficient for one pint and a half. 
 
 CUP PUDDING. 
 
 Mix a small tea-spoonful of flour and a tiny 
 pinch of salt very smoothly with a dessert- 
 spoonful of cold water; pour over it, stirring 
 all the time, a tea-cupful of boiling milk, and 
 when it is cold strain it, to ensure its being per- 
 fectly free from lumps, and add one fresh egg 
 well beaten. Sweeten with a small tea-spoonful 
 of sugar, pour it into a buttered basin, and 
 bake for twenty minutes. Turn out to serve. 
 If it be allowed, a little sherry is an improve- 
 ment. (A wholesome, easily-digested pudding 
 for an invalid.) Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient 
 for one person. 
 
 CUP PUDDINGS. 
 
 Beat four ounces of butter to a cream; mix 
 smoothly with it four ounces of fine flour, four 
 table-spoonfuls of milk, a small pinch of salt, 
 four ounces of picked and dried currants, and 
 four ounces of finely-sifted sugar; beat all 
 well together; butter seven or eight cups or 
 small basins; a little more than half fill them, 
 and bake in a good oven. Turn them out, 
 and serve with wine sauce, or a little jam. 
 Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost. 
 8d. Allow one for each person. 
 CURA90A. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of the thin rind of 
 Seville oranges, and pour over it a pint of 
 boiling water; when cool, add two quarts of 
 brandy or rectified spirits of wine, and let it 
 remain for ten or twelve days, stirring it every 
 day. Make a clarified syrup of two pounds of 
 finely-sifted sugar and one pint of water; add 
 this to the brandy, etc. Line a funnel with » 
 piece of muslin, and that with chemists' filter- 
 ing paper; let the liquid pass through two or 
 three times, till it is quite bright. This will 
 rsquire a little patience. Put it into small 
 bottles, and cork it closely. Time, twelve days. 
 Probable cost, 2s., exclusive of the brandy. 
 
CUR 
 
 1G9 
 
 CUR 
 
 Sufficient for a little more ttan three quarts of 
 curaQoa. Cura9oa imparts an agreeable flavour 
 to cream and to punch, and is an excellent 
 liquor. 
 
 CURA9OA JELLY. 
 
 Cura^oa jelly is made by substituting Seville 
 orange-rind for the lemon-rind generally used 
 in making calf's foot jelly, and using cura9oa 
 instead of sherry or brandy. 
 
 CURA90A SAUCE. 
 
 Mix a dessert-spoonful of arrowroot very 
 smoothly with a little cold water, and pour 
 upon it half a pint of boiling water. Put it on 
 the fire, and let it boil for three or four min- 
 utes; sweeten it, and flavour it with a wine- 
 glassful of cura9oa. Probable cost, 2d., ex- 
 clusive of the cura9oa. Sufficient for a small 
 pudding. 
 
 CURD. 
 
 The most usual way to " turn " milk, as it is 
 called, that is, to make it curdle, is to mix it, 
 when warm, but not hot, with a little rennet, 
 and let it stand in a warm place until the curd 
 is solid and the whey clear. Essence of rennet 
 can be obtained at any of the stores at prices, 
 varying from 4d. to is. per bottle. A little 
 lump of alum put into cold milk and set on 
 the fire will turn milk, or a few well-beaten 
 eggs stirred in just as the milk is boiling. A 
 pinch of salt added after the milk curdles will 
 assist the whey to separate. Whey is by some 
 considered a wholesome drink for feverish 
 persons, and in country places the lasses often 
 wash in it to improve their complexions. 
 
 CURD CHEESECAKES. 
 
 Turn one quart of milk with a little rennet ; 
 drain off the whey, and mix with the curd a 
 piece of butter the size of a large egg, beaten to 
 a cream; press it through a coarse sieve, and 
 mix with it a heaped table-spoonful of pounded 
 loaf sugar, the peel of a lemon finely shredded, 
 .two table-spoonfuls of currants, two well-beaten 
 eggs, and a dozen sweet and two bitter almonds, 
 blanched and pounded. Line some patty-pans 
 with a good crust, three parts fill them with 
 the mixture, and bake in a good oven. Time to 
 bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost. 
 Id. each. Sufficient, a dozen for a dish. 
 
 CURD FRITTERS. 
 
 Press a pint of curd through a sieve, and 
 mix with it the whites of two and the yolks of 
 four well-beaten eggs, a dessert-spoonful of 
 flour, a table-spoonful of sifted sugar, and a 
 pinch of pounded cinnamon. Put some lard 
 into a frying-pan, let it get quite hot, drop 
 the batter into it, a table-spoonful at a time, 
 fry until lightly browned, drain the fritters 
 from the fat, and serve them as hot as possi- 
 ble. Time, ten minutes to fry. Probable cost, 
 lOd. for this quantity. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. 
 
 CURD PUDDING. 
 
 Turn a quart of milk with a little rennet; 
 drain off the whey, and mix the curd with two 
 ounces of butter beaten to a cream, three 
 table-spoonfuls of finely-grated bread-crumbs, 
 two table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar, a table- 
 spoonful of new milk, a couple of fresh eggs. 
 
 and a glass of white wine. Butter some plain 
 round moulds, rather more than half fill them 
 with the. mixture, and bake them in a good 
 oven for about twenty minutes. Turn them out, 
 sift a little sugar over them; stick a few sliced 
 and blanched almonds in them, and serve with 
 cura9oa sauce. Probable cost, lOd., exclusive of 
 the wine. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 CURDS AND CREAM. 
 
 Curd is usually served in a dish with cream, 
 sweetened and flavoured, poured round it; it 
 should be drained from the whey and flavoured 
 with a little light wine. Time, a quarter of 
 an hour to separate the curd. Sufficient, a 
 quart of milk curdled and a pint of cream for a 
 moderate-sized dish. Probable cost, 2s. 
 CURRANT. 
 
 Under the general name of currants are in- 
 cluded the red, white, and black species which 
 grow in our gardens, and the small dried grapes 
 imported into this country which are sold in 
 the grocers' shops, and which are so largely used 
 in making cakes and puddings. The juice of 
 red, white, and black currants is specially 
 adapted for medicinal purposes, and the fruit 
 is also extensively used for jams, jellies, tarts, 
 and dessert. 
 
 CURRANT AND RASPBERRY TART. 
 
 The addition of a few raspberries very greatly 
 improves the flavour of a red currant tart, but 
 they must be carefully looked over to see that 
 there are no little worms inside the berries after 
 they are picked. Strip the currants from the 
 stalks, and allow three heaped table-spoonfuls 
 of moist sugar to every quart of fruit. Line the 
 edges of a deep pie-dish with good crust (see 
 Cetjst fob Fruit T^ets). Place an inverted 
 cup in the middle of the dish. Pill the latter 
 with the fruit, and cover it with the same crust 
 as the edges. Ornament the top as fancy dic- 
 tates, and bake in a good oven. Sift a little 
 pounded sugar over the tart before serving it. 
 Time to bake, half an hour or more, according to 
 the size of the dish. Probable cost. Is. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 
 CURRANT CAKES. 
 
 For currant cakes baked in a dish or 
 mould several recipes are given under 
 Christmas Cakes, Plum Cakes, etc. ; two or 
 three more are given here for cakes, which may 
 either be dropped in small rounds on a but- 
 tered tin, or put into a buttered dish, and baked 
 in a quick oven. Clean and pick two ounces of 
 currants; rub a quarter of a pound of fresh 
 butter into half a pound of flour, add the cur- 
 rants, a little grated nutmeg, and four table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar. Mix all together with two 
 well-beaten eggs, a, table-spoonful of brandy, 
 and sufficient new milk to make a light dough. 
 Roll out thin, and cut into cakes. Or wash and 
 pick one pound of currants ; beat one pound of 
 fresh butter to a cream, add one pound of sugar, 
 one pound and a half of flour, a tea-spoonful of 
 powdered cinnamon, a tea-spoonful of grated 
 nutmeg, the currants, and four eggs well 
 beaten. Another recipe : Clean and pick half 
 a pound of dried currants; beat a quarter of a 
 pound of butter to a cream ; mix with it a 
 quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, half a pound 
 
CUR 
 
 170 
 
 CUR 
 
 of dried flour, the yolks of four and the whites 
 of three eggs well beaten, the currants, and a 
 tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon; beat all 
 well together for a quarter of an hour. Another 
 way (economical) : Rub a quarter of a pound of 
 dripping into one pound of flour; add a pinch 
 of salt, two heaped tea-spoonfuls of baking 
 powder, three ounces of picked currants, two 
 table-spoonfuls of sugar, half a nutmeg grated, 
 and enough milk or water to form a stiff dough. 
 Time, about twenty minutes to bake. Suf- 
 ficient, one pound of flour, with the other in- 
 gredients, will make about one dozen cakes. 
 Probable cost, from ^d. to 2d. each. 
 
 CURRANT CHAMPAGNE. 
 
 Take four quarts of very ripe white currants 
 and four quarts of very ripe red currants; pour 
 over them six quarts of cold water, and bruise 
 and stir them about every day for six days. 
 Strain the juice through a jelly-bag, and put 
 four pounds of loaf sugar to every gallon of 
 liquid; add one ounce of isinglass, dissolved in 
 a little water, and two table-spoonfuls of fresh 
 yeast. Leave the wine for two or three days, 
 then put it into a cask, which, when the fer- 
 mentation is quite over, must be closed. It 
 will be ready to use in six or eight months. 
 Probable cost of currants, variable ; when plen- 
 tiful, 4d. per quart. 
 
 CURRANT CREAM ICE. 
 
 Take one pint of red currant-juice (see Cub- 
 bant Ceeam, Red), mix with it a pint of 
 cream, sweeten and freeze. A few raspberries 
 or strawberries are an improvement. The ice- 
 cream may be made with red currant jelly 
 instead of juice if the fresh fruit is not in sea- 
 son. Currant-water ice is much more whole- 
 some and refreshing than cream ice. It is made 
 by mixing a pint of juice with syrup produced 
 by boiling a pound and a half of sugar with a 
 quart of water, and then freezing tne mixture 
 like cream. Time, half an hour. Probable 
 cost, 2b. 6d. per quart. {See also Cubbant- 
 WATEE Ice). 
 
 CURRANT CREAM, RED. 
 
 Express a pint of red currant juice. In order 
 to do this pick the currants and put them into 
 an earthen jar. Cover it closely and put it into 
 a large pan of cold water, which must be so full 
 that it will reach to the top of the jar. Let it 
 simmer for two hours. Drain the juice from 
 the currants, mix a, pint of it with a pint of 
 thick cream, add an ounce and a half of melted 
 gelatine and some sugar. Pour the mixture 
 into a mould, and set it in a cool place to stiffen. 
 
 CURRANT CREAM, RED (another way). 
 
 Put a small jar of red currant-jelly, tEe juice 
 of a lemon, half a cupful of water, and two 
 table-spoonfuls of sugar into a saucepan. When 
 the jelly is dissolved, let the mixture cool a 
 little, then add more sugar if necessary. Then 
 proceed as directed in the previous recipe. 
 Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 Sufiicient for one quart. 
 
 CURRANT CUSTARD. 
 
 Express the juice from some fine fresh ripe 
 currants. This is best done by putting them in 
 a jar, which must be covered closely and placed 
 
 in a large pan of cold water, and simmered 
 gently until the juice flows freely. Mix a pint 
 of water with every pint of jilice, add a little 
 sugar, and put the liquid on the fire. Mix a 
 small portion of ground rice smoothly with a 
 little of the liquid while cold, and add this 
 gradually to the rest. Let it simmer gently, 
 stirring it constantly, until it is quite smooth 
 and well thickened, then pour it into cups or 
 glasses to be taken as custard. Grate a little 
 nutmeg, and put one ratafia on the surface of 
 each custard. The custards are the better for 
 standing a. night to stiffen. If set in some very 
 cold place — for instance, in a tin pail plunged in 
 a tub of cold water fresh drawn from the pump 
 — these custards will be as pleasant to the palate 
 in sultry weather as iced custards, without their 
 disadvantages. Arrowroot may be used instead 
 of ground rice. By increasing the quantity of 
 either ingredient, the custard may be made stiff 
 enough to be set in a mould, and turned out 
 before serving. Time, a quarter of an hour to 
 boil; about two hours to express the juice. 
 Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 CURRANT DUMPLING. 
 
 Make a light suet crust (see Ceust, Stjet). 
 Before moistening it mix half a pound of dried 
 currants with every pound of flour. Add milk 
 to make a light batter, and boil either in one 
 large dumpling tied in a floured cloti, or in 
 half a dozen without cloths. In the latter case 
 the dumplings should be dropped into boiling 
 water, and be looked after at first to see that 
 they do not stick to the pan. Serve with lemon- 
 juice and sugar. Time to boil, one hour and a 
 half with a cloth; half an hour without. The 
 dumplings will rise to the top when done 
 enough. Probable cost, lOd., for half a dozen 
 small dumplings. 
 
 CURRANT FOOL. 
 
 Strip some fresh, ripe, red currants from the 
 stalks, and stew them gently with three table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar to every pint of fruit. Press 
 them through a sieve, and when nearly cold mix 
 with them finely-grated bread-crumbs and cream 
 or new milk. Time to stew the currants, half 
 an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Sufiicient for four 
 or six persons. 
 
 CURRANT FRITTERS. 
 
 Whisk three eggs thoroughly, and mix with 
 them gradually six table-spoonfuls of fine fiour 
 and a pinch of salt. Beat the mixture until 
 quite smooth, then add one pint of milk. Put a 
 little lard or dripping into a frying-pan. When 
 quite hot, stir a handful of picked and dried 
 currants into the batter, and drop it into the 
 pan in fritters about the size of a penny bun. 
 Three or four may be cooked together, but they 
 must be kept apart. When lightly browned on 
 one side turn them over on the other. Drain the 
 fat from them, and serve them on a hot napkin. 
 Time to fry, a few minutes. Probable cost, 8d. 
 Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 CURRANT JAM, BLACK. 
 
 Take equal weights of pounded lump sugar 
 and picked fruit. Put the fruit in the preserv- 
 ing-pan, and pour into it two table-spoonfuls of 
 water for every pound of fruit; boil and skim. 
 When the fruit has boiled for twenty minutes. 
 
CUR 
 
 171 
 
 CUR 
 
 . add the sugar. Stir the fruit well to keep it 
 from burning, and boil it half an hour longer, 
 counting from the time when it simmers. equally 
 all over. Put a spoonful of the juice and fruit 
 to cool upon a plate. If the juice runs off, the 
 jam must be boiled longer, if it jellies it is done 
 enough. The jam will not keep unless the fruit 
 was gathered when dry. Probable cost, 8d. per 
 pound. Sufficient, a pound of fruit with sugar 
 for a pound of jam. (See also the close of the 
 recipe Currant Jelly, Black.) 
 
 CURRANT JAM, BLACK (superior). 
 
 Boil two pounds of black currants until the 
 juice flows freely.' Put the fruit through a sieve, 
 leave behind whatever will not pass through. 
 Boil the pulp for five or six minutes, lift it from 
 the fire, and stir into it a pound of powdered 
 loaf sugar. Boil it again until it thickens, and 
 pour it into jars for use. Time to boil the pulp 
 with the sugar, a quarter of an hour. Prob- 
 able cost, currants, 4d. per quart. 
 
 CURRANT JAM, RED AND WHITE. 
 
 Take some fine ripe red or white cuirrants ; let 
 them be gathered on a dry day, and be sure that 
 they are fresh and free from dirt. Strip them 
 from the stalks, and put them with an equal 
 weight of finely-pounded loaf sugar into a. pre- 
 serving-pan. Let them remain on the fire exactly 
 nine minutes after boiling. Pour the jam into 
 jars, and cover it with brandied papers, and put 
 over these tissue-paper dipped in gum. There is 
 no economy in using a smaller proportion: of 
 sugar, as the jam requires to boil so^ much longer 
 that the quantity is reduced sufficiently to make 
 the difference. Probable cost, when plentiful, 4d. 
 per quart. Sufficient, one pint of fruit for one 
 pound and a quarter of jam. 
 
 CURRANT JELLY, BLACK. 
 
 Draw the juice from some fine ripe black cur- 
 rants. In order to do this, put them, as we 
 have told already (see Ctterant Custabd), into 
 an earthen jar, cover this closely, put it in a 
 pan of cold water, and boil the fruit gently 
 until the juice is expressed. Strain it through 
 a jelly-bag, but do not press it, and boil it for 
 a minute or two. Add three-quarters of a pound 
 of sugar to every pint of juice, and boil ten 
 minutes longer. If the jelly becomes firm when 
 a spoonful is put on a plate it is boiled enough ; 
 if not, boil a little longer. Put it into small 
 jars and cover closely, first with brandied 
 papers and afterwards with gummed tissue- 
 paper. If a larger proportion of sugar were 
 added it would jelly sooner, but it would then 
 be too luscious to be agreeable in sickness. If 
 the juice is not pressed from the currants, the 
 latter, with the addition of a little sugar and 
 water, will boil into a jam fit to be used for 
 kitchen and nursery puddings, but it will not 
 keep long. Probable cost of currants, 4d. per 
 quart. About one pint of juice may be obtained 
 from two quarts of fruit. 
 
 CURRANT JELLY, RED. 
 
 Eed currant jelly may be made' in the same 
 way as black, remembering only that one pound 
 of sugar will be required for one pint of juice. 
 The flavour may, be improved by the addition of 
 a few raispberries, and both the flavoui' and 
 colour if one pint of white currants is used with 
 
 three of red. When straining the juice the fruit 
 must not be pressed or the Jelly will not be 
 clear. Some prefer to sweeten red currant jelly 
 by pounding loaf sugar very finely, and making 
 it quite hot in the oven, taking care that it ia 
 not in the least discoloured; then mixing it 
 with the juice, which, though hot, must not boil 
 until the sugar is dissolved. Be careful to use 
 either a silver or a wooden spoon in making 
 jelly; with any other the flavour will be spoilt. 
 The jelly may be made very stiff by adding 
 half an ounce of isinglass to each pint of juice. 
 The isinglass should be dissolved in a little of 
 the juice, and put in with the sugar. Time, 
 about two hours to express the juice. Probable 
 cost of currants, 4d. per quart. Three pints of 
 fruit will probably yield one pint of juice. 
 
 CURRANT JELLY, WHITE. 
 
 This jelly may be made in the same way as 
 the last, or the fruit may be bruised and the 
 juice strained through a jelly-bag. It must not 
 be pressed, or the jelly will not be clear. The 
 fruit which is left in the bag may be boiled intoi 
 nursery preserve. Allow one pound of sugar 
 to every pint of juice. Put both into a, pre- 
 serving-pan, stir the liquid until it boils, and 
 boil for six minutes. When pounded sugar is 
 used for jellies it should be prepared at home. 
 That which is bougiht at the shops may be adul- 
 terated, and then the colour of the jelly would 
 be spoilt. If it is wished to have the jelly very 
 stiff, half an ounce of isinglass may be used for 
 every pint of juice. It should be dissolved in 
 a little of the juice and put in -with the sugar. 
 Three pints of currants will probably yield one 
 pint of juice. Probable cost of currants, 6d. 
 per quart.' 
 
 CURRANT LOZENGES, BLACK. 
 
 Put three quarts of ripe black currants, per- 
 fectly free from dust, into a preserving-pan, and 
 let them simmer gently until the juice flows 
 freely, assisting its flow by bruising the fruit 
 with a wooden spoon. Squeeze the fruit through 
 a sieve, and press it to obtain as much juice as 
 possible. Return the juice to the pan, with a 
 quarter of a pound of brown sugar to every pint 
 of juice. Let it boil for tLre:!-'quarters of au 
 hour, and a few minutes before taking it off, 
 add half an ounce of dissolved isinglass for 
 every quart of juice. Pour the paste rather 
 thinly over plates, and put it before the fire for 
 three days to dry. Put the cakes into a tin box 
 with a little white paper between each, and 
 cut them into lozenges, as required. Probable 
 cost of currants, 4d. per quart. 
 
 CURRANT PANCAKES. 
 
 Put the thin rind of a lemon into a saucepan 
 with a pint of milk, and let it stand by the side 
 of the fire for some time to draw out the flavour. 
 ■When this is extracted, put with the milk twO' 
 ounces of butter and two table-spoonfuls of 
 sugar, and when the butter is melted, put the 
 milk on one side to cool. Mix eight ounces of 
 flour very smoothly with six well-beaten eggs 
 and two table-spoonfuls of water, add a pinch of 
 salt and a table-spoonful of brandy, and after- 
 wards the cooled milk. Melt a little butter or 
 lard in the frying-pan ; when quite Hot, pour in 
 sufficient batter to cover it thinly, immediately 
 strew a few dried and picked currants over it. 
 
CUR 
 
 172 
 
 CUR 
 
 loosen the edges, brown the pancake on both 
 sides, and serve with a little sugar and lemon- 
 juice. Time, a few minutes to fry. Allow one 
 for each person. Probable cost. Is. 2d., ex- 
 clusive of the brandy. 
 
 CURRANT PASTE. 
 
 Put any quantity of ripe currants, either red 
 or white, or a part of each mixed, into a hair 
 sieve ; press out the juice, and put three parts of 
 it aside for making jelly. Rub the fruit, with 
 the remainder of the juice, through the sieve, and 
 boil it, stirring it constantly, till it is dry. Add 
 half a pound of sugar for each pound of the 
 original weight of fruit, and boil twenty minutes 
 longer. Be careful not to let the paste burn. 
 Put it into jars, and store for use. 
 
 CURRANT PUDDING, BLACK, RED, OR WHITE. 
 
 Cut a piece of bread about half an incH thick, 
 "the size and shape of half a crown. Place it at 
 the bottom of a round basin, and put some 
 £ngers of bread, either crust or crumb, in an 
 upright position round it, leaving a distance of 
 an inch between each finger. Boil a pint and a 
 ialf of currants stripped from their stalks, with 
 a quarter of a pound of sugar. When the juice 
 flows freely, put it and the fruit gently into the 
 jmould, a spoonful at a time, and the more solid 
 jart first, so a-s to keep the bread in its position. 
 Cover the top thickly vrith little sippets of 
 l)read, place a plate over the top, and over that 
 3, weight to squeeze in the juice, and leave the 
 puddiag till cold. Turn it out before serving, 
 and send a little custard or cream to table with 
 it. Stale bread may be used for this pudding. 
 Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 6d., ex- 
 clusive of the custard. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 CURRANT PUDDING, BOILED, BLACK, RED, 
 OR WHITE. 
 
 Line a plain round mould which has been well 
 buttered with a good suet crust (see Cetjst, Suet, 
 TOE PuDDiH-Gs). Put in the currants, stripped 
 of their stalks, and allow a quarter of a pound 
 of moist sugar for a quart of currants. Place a 
 cover on the top, make the edges very secure, 
 so that the juice cannot escape, and tie tlie pud- 
 ding in a floured cloth. Put it into bmling 
 -water. A few raspberries or strawberries are 
 an agreeable addition. Time, two hours and a 
 half to boil. Probable cost of currants, about 
 4d. per quart. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 CURRANT SALAD. 
 
 Pick equal weights of white and red currants, 
 strawberries, and cherries, and place them in 
 alternate layers on a high dish. Strew a little 
 -white sugar on each layer, and pour over the 
 -whole some thick cream, or place little lumps of 
 Devonshire cream at short distances from each 
 other upon the fruit. Time, a quarter of an hour 
 ■to prepare. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Suf- 
 •ficient, a half pound of each fruit for a good dish. 
 
 CURRANT SAUCE FOR SUCKING PIG OR 
 VENISON. 
 
 Wash and pick one ounce of dried currants, 
 ^oil in half a pint of water for a few minutes, 
 and pour them over a cupful of finely-grated 
 hread-crumbs. Let them soak for a while. 
 Beat them well with a fork, and stir them into 
 
 a cupful of good melted butter. Add two table- 
 spoonfuls of the brown gravy made for the pig, 
 a glass of port, and a pinch of salt. Stir the 
 sauce over the fire until it is quite smooth. 
 Sometimes currants are simply washed and 
 dried, and sent in on a dish with the pig. 
 Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 6d. per pint, 
 exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for a small pig. 
 
 CURRANT SHRUB, WHITE OR RED. 
 
 Put two quarts of red or white currants into 
 a jar. Cover it closely, and place it in a large 
 pan of cold water. Let it simmer gently until 
 the juice flows freely. Then strain the juice, 
 and allow six ounces of loaf sugar, and a quart 
 of rum to every pint of juice. The sugar should 
 be stirred until dissolved in the warm liquid, 
 and the spirit added afterwards. Strain and 
 bottle for use. Time, one hour and a half or 
 two hours to draw out the juice. Sufficient for 
 three pints of shrub. Probable cost of currants, 
 4d. per quart. 
 
 CURRANT SYRUP. 
 
 Take three pounds of red and three of white 
 currants. A pound of cherries or a pound of 
 raspberries would be an improvement, but they 
 can be dispensed with. Bruise the fruit slightly, 
 and put it into an earthen jar. Cover this 
 closely, put it into a saucepan of cold water,; 
 put it on the fire, and let the fruit 
 simmer gently until the juice flows freely. | 
 Strain it once or twice if necessary, and 
 leave it until the next day in some' 
 very cool place, being careful to guard it from' 
 dust. If the juice is very clear it may then be 
 poured off, leaving any sediment at the bottom 
 of the vessel. 'Weigh the juice, put it into a 
 clean saucepan, and add an equal weight of 
 good sugar broken into small pieces. Let it 
 simmer, and stir it to prevent the sugar sticking 
 to the bottom, but do not let it boil. Remove 
 the scum carefully, and when no more rises, put 
 the syrup into an earthen jar to cool. In twelve 
 hours it may be put into small-sized dry bottles, 
 corked and sealed, and stored in a cool but dry 
 place. This delicious preparation, retaining as 
 it does so completely the flavour of the fruit, is 
 most useful for making isinglass jelly and sauce 
 for sweet puddings ; when mixed with cold water 
 it makes a refreshing summer drink, and is 
 especially suited to invalids. It is also very 
 nice poured over or round blancmanges or rice 
 moulds. Time, two days. Probable cost of 
 currants, 4d. to 6d. per quart. 
 
 CURRANT WATER (a refreshing Summer drink). 
 Mix a quart of red currants and a cupful of 
 raspberries. Bruise them well ; pour over them 
 two quarts of cold water, and add half a pound 
 of loaf sugar. Put them into a preserving-pan, 
 and when they begin to simmer, take them off, 
 put with them a little writing-paper soaked in 
 water till it is reduced to a pulp, to assist the 
 clearing, and strain the liquid through a jelly- 
 bag. Add as much sugar as is agreeable to the 
 taste, and serve in glass jugs. Time, half an 
 hour. Probable cost of currants, 4d. to 6d. per 
 quart. Sufficient for three quarts of water. 
 
 CURRANT-WATER ICE. 
 
 Get one pint of the juice of red currants, to 
 which have been added a few raspberries to give 
 
CUR 
 
 173 
 
 CUR 
 
 additional colour. Add a pound and a half of 
 sugar boiled to a syrup with one quart of water, 
 and mix the juice thoroughly with the syrup. 
 Strain the liquid into the mould and freeze. 
 Time, half an hour to draw out the juice. Suf- 
 ficient for three pints of ice. (See also Ctjebant 
 Cbeam Ice.) 
 
 currant wine, black. 
 
 Take six quarts of black currant juice ; mix 
 with it six quarts of cold water and twelve 
 pounds of moist sugar. When the sugar is dis- 
 solved put the liquor into a cask, which must 
 be kept in a warm, dry room. It will ferment 
 without anything else being added to it. A 
 little of the liquid should be Kept with which to 
 fill up the cask when the fermentation is over, ' 
 and the wine has been well skimmed. Before 
 closing the cask add one quart of brandy. Cur- 
 rant wine should not be bottled for twelve 
 months, and will be improved if kept even 
 longer. This wine will be good for several 
 years. Probable cost of currants, 4d. to 6d. 
 per quart. 
 
 CURRANT WINE FROM UNRIPE FRUIT. 
 
 Currants may be used for making wine before 
 they are quite ripe. They should be bruised 
 sufficiently to burst the berries, and have the 
 water poured over them : the sugar may be in- 
 troduced at once. If this is done the wine, 
 which must be well strained before it is put into 
 the cask, will be strong and highly flavoured, 
 though not very sweet. The same proportions 
 may be allowed for this wine as for black cur- 
 rant, and the same directions may be followed. 
 The only difference is that greater care will be 
 required in separating the stalks from the fruit. 
 
 CURRANT WINE, RED. 
 
 Take three gallons of ripe red currants, pick 
 from the stalks, bruise them and press out the 
 juice, and infuse the residue in four and a half 
 gallons of cold water. Mix well and repeatedly 
 to ensure equal diffusion ; press out the liquor, 
 mix it with the juice, and add fourteen pounds 
 of loaf sugar. When the sugar is dissolved, 
 transfer the whole to a cask large enough to 
 leave some space unfilled, put in the bung and 
 bore a hole through it with the gimlet, and allow 
 the vessel to stand where the temperature is not 
 less than seventy degrees, for a month. By that 
 time the fermentation will have greatly de- 
 creased. Add three pounds of sugar, dissolved 
 in two quarts of warm water, shake the cask 
 well, and bung it as before. In about six or 
 eight weeks, on listening at the bunghole, your 
 ear will inform you whether fermentation has 
 ceased, if so rack off the clear liquor from the 
 sediment, and mix with it a quart of the best 
 French brandy. Set it by in the cellar for about 
 two months, when the liquor is again to be 
 racked off into a clean but not new cask, which 
 should be quite filled; it must now be tightly 
 bunged down, so as to exclude the air perfectly, . 
 and be preserved for at least a year at a 
 temperature of seventy degrees. When neces- 
 sary the cask should be for this purpose kept 
 near a fire. 
 
 CURRANT WINE, WHITE. 
 
 White currant wine may be made in the 
 same way as red, with two ounces of bruised 
 
 bitter almonds mixed in the fermenting 
 liquor. 
 
 CURRANTS, COMPOTE OF 
 
 Pick a quart of ripe red and white lurrants 
 quite free from dirt. Put half a pound of loaf 
 sugar and a breakfast-cupful of cold water into 
 a saucepan. Simmer the syrup gently for a 
 quarter of an hour, then put in the currants, 
 and simmer them for ten minutes longer. Put 
 the fruit into a compote dish, pour the syrup 
 over it, and serve cold. Currants prepared thus 
 are excellent served with blancmange or a rice 
 mould. Probable cost of currants, 4d. to 6d. 
 per quart. Sufficient for a good-sized dish. 
 
 CURRANTS, ICED. 
 
 Whisk the white of an egg thoroughly until 
 firm, then mix it with three dessert-spoonfuls of 
 cold water. Dip into this exceedingly fine 
 bunches of ripe red and white currants, one 
 bunch at a time. Let them drain for a minute, 
 then roll them in finely-pounded white sugar, 
 and lay them carefully on sheets of paper to 
 dry. The sugar will crystallise on the currants, 
 a,nd will have a very good effect. A pretty dish 
 may be made by icing in this way different 
 coloured fruits suitable for dessert, and arrang- 
 ing them tastefully on a dish. Time, four or 
 five hours to crystallise. 
 
 CURRANTS, TO BOTTLE, FOR TARTS IN 
 WINTER. 
 
 Ascertain that the fruit has been gathered 
 when it was quite dry, or it will not keep. Pick 
 it and put it into clean, wide-mouthed, dry 
 bottles. A few strawberries or raspberries may 
 be added or not. Cover the fruit with water. 
 Soak some bladder in water, tie a piece firmly 
 over the top of each bottle, and wrap a little 
 hay round the bottles ; then put them into a pan 
 of cold water, and let them stand upright with- 
 out touching one another; the water should 
 reach nearly to the necks of the bottles. Put 
 the pan on the fire, and when the water is on 
 the point of boiling, draw it to one side, and let 
 it remain for half an hour. The bottles should 
 not be taken out of the water until it is nearly 
 cold. Tie strong paper over each of the bottles, 
 and keep them in a bottle-rack in a cool, dry 
 place, with the necks downwards. The fruit will 
 keep good for years. The water must not boil. 
 Shake the fruit well down, or the bottles will 
 not be more than half full. 
 
 CURRANTS, TO CLEAN. 
 
 The best way to clean dried currants is to rub 
 a handful of flour into them ; then put them into 
 a colander, shake it well to get rid of the stalks, 
 and afterwards pour over the currants a little 
 cold water. Press the currants in a soft cloth 
 and lay them on a dish, look them carefully over 
 to see that no small stones are amongst them, 
 put them on the hearth at a little distance from 
 the fire, and let them gradually dry. If placed 
 too near, so as to dry very quickly, they will be 
 hard. 
 CURRANTS, TO KEEP, FOR TARTS. 
 
 Gather the fruit when it is quite dry and not 
 over-ripe, pick it from the stalks, and put it 
 into a large dry earthen jar, with a quarter of a 
 pound of moist sugar to each pound of fruit. 
 Put it in a good oven and bake it for twenty 
 
CUR 
 
 174 
 
 CUR 
 
 minutes. Warm some preserving jars, be sure 
 that they are quite dry, and fill them with the 
 fruit. Tie a, bladder over them immediately, 
 and store them in a dry place. They will keep 
 good through the winter if they are not opened, 
 but they require to be used when the cover has 
 once been removed. Probable cost of currants, 
 4d. to 6d. per quart. 
 
 CURRY. 
 
 This esteemed dish, especially a favourite with 
 those who have resided in India, is often ren- 
 dered unpalatable by the same curry seasoning 
 being used for every dish, however differently 
 may be the viands of which it is composed. It 
 must be evident that the same flavouring will 
 not be suitable for a curry of chicken, of fi-sh, 
 or of calf's head. The seasoning should always 
 be adapted to the character of the meat, and, 
 if it can be ascertained, to the taste of those 
 ■who have to eat it. The first thing to be attended 
 to is to have good stock, secondly, suitable sea- 
 soning, and thirdly, plenty of properly pre- 
 pared rice, for the rest of the dish is only in- 
 tended to serve as a sort of relish to this most 
 important part of it. The meat, whether 
 it has been previously cooked or other- 
 wise, should be cut into small convenient- 
 sized pieces, and fried in hot butter until lightly 
 browned, with sliced onions and mushrooms, or 
 mushroom powder. A little good stock should 
 then be added, which, after simmering a little 
 while, should be thickened with curry powder, 
 curry paste, and, if liked, a little ground rice. 
 The boiled rice should be piled round the dish. 
 Though fresh meat is always to be preferred as 
 being more juicy, yet cold meat is excellent 
 warmed up as a curry; and it should be re- 
 membered that it does not require so much stew- 
 ing as fresh. When other proportions are not 
 given, a tea-spoonful of curry powder, a tea- 
 spoonful of curry paste, a tea^apoonful of ground 
 rice, and a breakfast-cupful of gravy may be 
 allowed for every pound of meat. The addition 
 of a sour apple, or a little grated cocoa-nut, or 
 tomatoes, or cucumbers, or green gooseberries 
 ^seeded), or spinach, will greatly improve various 
 curries. It must be remembered that the vege- 
 tables are to be stewed in the gravy until they 
 lave imparted their flavour to it, then passed 
 through a sieve, and returned to the curry. 
 
 CURRY BALLS. 
 
 Boil half a pound of rice with one pint of 
 water, a dessert-spoonful of curry-powder, half 
 H tea-spoonful each of salt and sugar, and one 
 small onion chopped very fine. Chop up eight 
 ounces of any cold meat with a tea-spoonful of 
 minced parsley and a little mixed herbs. While 
 the rice is hot mix the meat and a beaten egg 
 with it, and form the mixture into balls; put 
 them on a baking-tin, well buttered, in a hot 
 oven to brown. Or they may be egged and 
 bread-crumbed, and fried in boiling fat. Prob- 
 able cost. Is 
 
 CURRY, CALCUTTA. 
 
 Cut up a young chicken, either cooked or raw, 
 into convenient-sized pieces. If home-made 
 curry-powder is preferred it may be made by 
 pounding together and mixing thoroughly a 
 table-spoonful of coriander-seed, a table-spoon- 
 ful of poppy-seed, a salt-spoonful of turmeric. 
 
 half a salt-spoonful of red chilli, half a salt- 
 spoonful of cumin-seed, half a salt-spoonful 
 of ground ginger, and a salt-spoonful of 
 salt. Generally speaking, however, excellent 
 curry paste and powder may be purchased of 
 respectable dealers for, as little as the ingre- 
 dients would cost. Mix this smoothly with a 
 quarter of a pound of butter, and fry two sliced 
 onions in it till lightly browned. Then fry the 
 chicken. Add the milk of a cocoa-nut, and 
 simmer all gently together for a quarter of an 
 hour. Stir in the juice of a small lemon, and 
 serve with rice. Time, three-quarters of an 
 hour. Probable dost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. ' 
 
 CURRY CROQUETTES. 
 
 The remains of any kind of cold meat will do 
 for this dish. Free half a pound of meat from 
 skin and gristle and excess of fat, and pass it 
 through the mincer. Have ready some boiled 
 rice. Put into a saucepan one ounce of butter 
 and one small chopped onion, fry it, but do 
 not let it get brown, then stir in a dessert- 
 spoonful of curry powder and half an ounce of 
 flour. When cooked, but not browned, add the 
 meat and the juice of a quarter of a lemon ; let 
 this cook a little longer, and mix in the boiled 
 rice, and one gill of stock. Beat up one egg, 
 and add it to the mixture ; stir just long enough 
 to bind the egg, add a pinch of salt, and spread 
 the mixture on a dish. When cold, shape into 
 balls of equal size, egg and bread-crumb them, 
 and fry in boiling fat to a light brown. Drain, 
 and dish up in a pile, garnished with fried 
 parsley. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 
 CURRY GRAVY. 
 
 Make a powder by mixing together two table- 
 spoonfuls of ground rice with a salt-spoonful of ; 
 pepper, a salt-spoonful of salt, and a salt-spoon- 
 ful of mixed sweet herbs dried and powdered.- 
 Cut two pounds of veal into pieces about an inch 
 and a half square and half an inch thick. Dip 
 them in hot butter, then in the powder, and fry 
 them in butter till lightly browned on both 
 sides. Melt a little buttej: over the fire, and 
 fry in it six large onions and two apples sliced. 
 When tender rub them through a sieve, and mix 
 smoothly with the pulp a table-spoonful of curry 
 paste, a table-spoonful of ground rice, a tea- 
 spoonful of curry powder, and as much nicely^ 
 flavoured stock as is required. Stir the sauce 
 over the fire, and put the fried meat into it. ^ 
 Simmer gently for forty minutes. Just before , 
 serving, squeeze over it the juice of a lemon. 
 When the flavour is liked, a quarter of a clove 
 of garlic may be stewed with the meat. Probable 
 cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 CURRY, MADRAS. 
 
 Slice one large or two small onions, and fry 
 them in three ounces of butter till they are 
 lightly browned. Mix a dessert-spoonful of 
 curry powder, a dessert-spoonful of curry paste, 
 and a tea-spoonful of ground rice smoothly with 
 the butter, and add a salt-spoonful of salt, and 
 a breakfast-cupful of good gravy. Cut about 
 one pound of meat, either fowl, rabbit, veal, or 
 beef, into convenient-sized pieces, about one 
 inch and a half square. Put these in with the 
 gravy, and simmer gently for forty minutes. 
 Remember to stir it every few minutes. A 
 
CUR 
 
 175 
 
 cus 
 
 little rasped cocoa-nut, or the strained juice of 
 a lemon, or an acid apple, is an improvement to 
 the curry, which shoiud be served with a bordei 
 of _ rice round the dish. Probable cost, Is. 8d. 
 Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 CURRY, MAUAY. 
 
 Take two ounces of. blanched almonds. Fry 
 them in three ounces of butter till they are 
 lightly browned, but do not let them burn. 
 Drain, and pound them to a smooth paste with 
 the rind of a small lemon and a sliced onion. 
 Cut a young chicken into convenient-sized 
 pieces, and fry them in the butter. Drain 
 them. Mix a, table-spoonful of curry powder, 
 and a heaped salt-spoonful of salt, very smoothly 
 with the butter. Add gradually a cupful of 
 
 fravy, put in the chicken and paste, and simmer 
 or half an hour, then add a cupful of cream. 
 Let the curry nearly boil, and just before serv- 
 ing squeeze the juice of & small lemon into it. 
 Time, altogether, one hour. Probable cost, 48. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 CURRY OF VEGETABLES. 
 
 A palatable dish may be made by currying 
 green vegetables such as cabbages, cauliflowers, 
 green peas, beans, vegetable-marrow, spinach, 
 or sorrel. They may be cooked separately, or 
 one or two kinds together. Cut them into 
 sinall shreds. Fry them in hot butter, which 
 has been mixed with a liberal allowance of 
 curry powder, and a little salt, and when lightly 
 browned cover them with cream, new milk, or 
 good gravy. A sliced onion may be added, or 
 not, according to taste. Let them simmer till 
 sufficiently cooked. Just before serving, squeeze 
 the juice of a lemon over them, and send rice to 
 table with them. The time which this diah will 
 require will vary with the nature of the vege- 
 tables. Probable cost, about Is. 6d. for a 
 moderate-sized dish. 
 
 CURRY PIMENTO. 
 
 . Cut a fowl into joints. Mix a table-spoonful 
 of curry powder with half a tea-spoonful of 
 cayenne, and a pinch of salt. Eub this well 
 into the pieces of fowl, and stew them gently 
 in a breakfast-cupful of good nicely-flavoured 
 stock. Let them simmer gently for half an 
 hour, and before serving squeeze in the juice of 
 a small lemon. Serve on a hot dish with half a 
 pound of rice boiled, and piled round. Time, 
 altogether, three-quarters of an hour. Suf- 
 ficient for three or four persons. Probable 
 cost, 38. 
 
 CURRY POWDER. 
 
 Curry powder consists of turmeric, black pep- 
 per, coriander-seed, cayenne, fenugreek, carda- 
 moms, cumin, ginger,- allspice, cloves, and 
 other ingredients. The seeds should be 
 ground in a mill, and mixed with the 
 powder, and when made it should be kept in a 
 bottle closely stopped. A spoonful of cocoa-nut 
 kernel, dried and pounded, gives a delicious 
 flavour to a curry, as does also acid apple. A 
 recipe for making curry powder has already been 
 given (see Cueet, Calctjtta), and we give 
 another in the following paragraph; but we 
 think it will be found quite as satisfactory and 
 economical to purchase curry powder of a first- 
 class dealer as to make it at home. 
 
 CURRY POWDER (Dr. Kitchener's recipe). 
 
 Put six ounces of coriander-seed, five ounces 
 of turmeric, two ounces each of black pepper 
 and mustard-seed, half an ounce of cumin-seed, 
 half an ounce of cinnamon, and one ounce of 
 lesser cardamoms, into a cool oven for a night. 
 Pound them thoroughly in a marble mortar, and 
 rub them through a sieve. Keep the powder in 
 a well-corked bottle. Probable cost, 3s. Suf- 
 ficient, one table-spoonful of curry powder to a 
 pound of meat, and a cupful of gravy. 
 
 CURRY SAUCE. 
 
 Peel and slice one small onion, scrape and 
 slice a small carrot, and fry both in half an 
 ounce of butter till the onion is a light brown 
 colour; add a table-spoonful of curry powder, 
 and stir for a few seconds. Kext add a small 
 sour apple, peeled, cored, and chopped ; moisten 
 with half a gill of tomato puree, and one gill 
 of Espagnole sauce, and boil for a few minutes. 
 Season to taste, and stir in last of all a finely- 
 chopped French gherkin. Strain, and bottle. 
 Probable cost. Is. 
 
 CURRY, TO BOIL RICE FOR. 
 
 Patna rice is <Ae correct rice to use for curries, 
 but it cannot always be obtained. The 
 thing to be attended to is to have' each grain of 
 rice distinct and unbroken, and at the same 
 time quite tender. This can be attained quite 
 as easily with Carolina as with Patna rice, but 
 the former will require boiling a few minutes 
 longer than the latter. Wash the rice in several 
 waters, and, after removing every discoloured 
 and uuhusked grain, boil it in plenty of cold 
 water. This is the secret of having the rice 
 whole. The water will keep the grains separate. 
 Leave the saucepan uncovered. Bring the 
 water slowly to a boil. Shake the pan occa- 
 sionally to prevent burning, but do not stir the 
 rice at all. When it has simmered gently for 
 twenty or twenty-five minutes it will most likely 
 be tender. Patna rice will not reciuire so long. 
 Drain it in a colander, and let it dry gently 
 before the fire. Serve it round the curry. Prob- 
 able cost, 4d. per pound. Sufficient, half a, 
 pound of rice for a moderate-sized dish of curry. 
 
 CUSTARD. 
 
 It should be remembered that custard must 
 not be allowed to boil after the eggs are added 
 to the milk. If it does it will curdle, and be 
 lumpy. The best way is to put it into a jug, 
 and place this jug in a large saucepan of cold 
 water, which must be put on the fire until the 
 custard thickens, stirring it all the time. The 
 yolks only of the eggs are required for custard. 
 The whites may be set aside and used for other 
 purposes. 
 
 CUSTARD (k la Reine). 
 
 Sweeten, flavour, and boil a brerkfast-cupful 
 of thick cream, add a tiny pinch of salt, and 
 stir in the well-beaten yolks of six eggs. Pour 
 the mixture into a jug, and set the jug in a 
 saucepan- of cold water. Stir it one way until 
 it thickens. Just before serving flavour it with 
 four table-spoonfuls of maraschino and sweeten 
 it to taste. Time, a quarter of an hour to 
 thicken. Probable cost, 2s., exclusive of the 
 maraschino. Sufficient for a pint and a quarter 
 of custard. 
 
cus 
 
 176 
 
 CUS 
 
 CUSTARD AND SYRUP (a pretty and inexpensive 
 f dish for a Children's party). 
 
 Make some good custard, and mix it with a 
 little isinglass (see Custard Mould. The cus- 
 tard need not be so rich as the one there given). 
 Oil some small cups of various sizes, fill them 
 with the custard, and when cold and firm turn 
 them out on to a glass dish, putting the large 
 ones in the middle, and the smaller ones round 
 them. Dissolve some red currant, raspberry, or 
 gooseberry jelly with a little wine, or make a 
 small quantity of syrup from sugar and water, 
 flavour it with lemon, and colour it with cochi- 
 neal. When nearly cold, pour this over and 
 amongst the custards. Lay round the inside of 
 the dish a necklace of ratafias reposing on the 
 outer ifcdge of the syrup. Serve each child with 
 a whole custard, a spoonful of syrup, and a 
 couple of ratafias. Time, twelve hours to stiffen. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for a good-sized 
 dish. 
 
 CUSTARD BAKED IN A CRUST. 
 
 Line a pie-dish with a good crust, and put it 
 in the oven until it is three parts cooked. Make 
 a custard as in the last recipe, using milk in- 
 stead of cream, but do not put quite so large a 
 proportion of milk, to ensure its being quite 
 stiff. Bake it gently, and when the custard is 
 set it is done enough. Keep it in a cool place. 
 Turn out before serving. Time, three-quarters 
 of an hour. Probable cost. Is., for a moderate- 
 sized dish, large enough for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 CUSTARD, BOILED. 
 
 Simmer in a well-lined saucepan a pint each 
 of milk and cream, with a bay-leaf, and the 
 thin rind of half a lemon. Strain the liquid for 
 halt an hour, and put it on again with three 
 ounces of sugar. Beat weU the yolks of six 
 eggs, and add them gradually to the milk, 
 stirring it carefully and steadily until it 
 thickens. It must not boil, or it will curdle. 
 Pour it into a large jug, and add a glass of 
 brandy, still stirring it until it has cooled a 
 little. Fill cups and serve. Probable cost, 
 2s. 4d., without brandy. 
 
 CUSTARD, BOILED (cheap). 
 
 Simmer three pints of milk for half an hour 
 in a well-lined saucepan, with lemon or cinna- 
 mon to flavour the liquid. Strain it and add a 
 table-spoonful of ground rice or arrowroot 
 smoothly mixed in half a wine-glassful of cold 
 milk. Beat up the yolks of three eggs and add 
 them, with three ounces of sugar, to the rest. 
 Stir the custard gently and steadily till it 
 thickens, but do not boil it or it will curdle. 
 This is a good custard for puddings. Probable 
 cost, lid. If served in cups, sufficient for twelve. 
 
 CUSTARD, CHERRY. 
 
 Make a rich custard (see Custaed 1 la Reinb). 
 Put six or eight macaroons at the bottom of a 
 glass dish, ana over these lay a cupful of cherries 
 which have been used for making cherry-brandy, 
 with their juice. When the macaroons have 
 absorbed the juice, pour the custard over them, 
 and garnish the dish with macaroons and 
 cherries. Time, one hour. Probable cost, 
 28. 6d., exclusive of the cherry-brandy. Suf- 
 ficient for a good-sized dish. 
 
 CUSTARD, COMIVION. 
 
 Put a pint of milk into a clean saucepan, 
 with a piece of thin lemon-rind or half an inch 
 of stick cinnamon. Let it simmer gently for a 
 quarter of an hour, till it is pleasantly flavoured. 
 Mix a tea-spoonful of arrowroot, ground rice, or 
 fiour very smoothly with three table-spoonfuls 
 of cold milk. Add the yolk of an egg well 
 beaten, and strain the hot milk upon the mix- 
 ture. Place it on the fire for a few minutes to 
 thicken, stirring it all the time. A dessert- 
 spoonful of brandy is an improvement. Prob- 
 able cost, 4d. Sufficient for a pint of custard. 
 
 CUSTARD, EXCELLENT. ''' 
 
 Put a pint of new milk, and half a pint of 
 good cream into a saucepan, with a bay-leaf, 
 the thin rind of a lemon, and two table-spoonfuls 
 of sifted sugar. Simmer the liquid gently for 
 twenty minutes. Then strain it, and add to it 
 gradually the well-beaten yolks of five eggs. 
 Pour the mixture from one jug to another for 
 a minute or two. Then place it in one of the 
 jugs in a saucepan of warm water. Put tHis on 
 the fire, and stir the custard until it thickens. 
 Pour it out ; add a wine-glassful of brandy, and 
 continue stirring until Che custard is cold. 
 Serve in glasses, and put a ratafia on the top 
 of each custard. Time, altogether, three- 
 quarters of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 Sufficient for nearly a quart of custard. 
 
 CUSTARD ICE CREAM. 
 
 Whisk together a quart of cream and five 
 eggs with a little sugar. Boil it, stirring all 
 the time, with the rind of two lemons cut fine. 
 Strain it, stir till nearly cold, and freeze. This 
 may also be served unfrozen as custard. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 CUSTARD, LEiMON, WITHOUT IMILK OR CREAM. 
 
 Put three ounces of loaf sugar, the thin rind 
 and strained juice of two lemons, and a pint of 
 hot water into a basin. Let it stand for three- 
 quarters of an hour, or until the flavour of the 
 lemon-rind is extracted. Thorougfhly beat the 
 yolks of four eggs. Mix them with the water, 
 etc., first straining it, and put it on the fire to 
 thicken for ten minutes. It must not boil. 
 Serve in custard-glasses. Probable cost, 8d. 
 Sufficient for a pint of custard. 
 
 CUSTARD MOULD. 
 
 Make a, rich custard (see Custard a la Reine). 
 When it has been thickened, and is nearly cold, 
 mix with it half an ounce of isinglass dissolved 
 in a little hot milk. Whip it well for ten 
 minutes, then pour into an oiled mould, or into 
 five or six smaller moulds, and send it to 
 table, with dissolved red currant jelly poured 
 over it. Time, twelve hours to stiffen. Prob- 
 able cost, 2s. 6d. Suflicient for six or eight 
 persons. 
 
 CUSTARD PUDDING, BAKED. 
 
 Take as many eggs as will when level cover 
 the bottom of the dish in which you intend to 
 bake the custard. Break each one into a separ- 
 ate cup before it is mixed with the rest, to 
 ensure the quality of the eggs. Beat them a 
 minute or two, but not too much, or the custard 
 will be watery. Fill the dish with milk, sweeten 
 liberally, and add a pinch of salt. Flavour with 
 
cus 
 
 177 
 
 CUT 
 
 brandy, lemon, almond, vanilla, rose-water, 
 orange-water, or any other flavouring. Stir all 
 together. Grate a little nutmeg on the top, 
 and bake in a moderate oven. As soon as the 
 custard is set it is done enough. Time to bake 
 about half an hour. Probable cost, 9d., for a 
 moderate-sized dish. Su£B.cient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 CUSTARD PUDDING, BOILED. 
 
 Make a pint of custard with half » pint of 
 milk and three eggs. Flavour and sweeten it 
 liberally, or the pudding will be insipid. Put it 
 into a buttered basin which it will quite fill, 
 cover it with a piece of buttered paper, and tie 
 it in a. floured cloth, then steam it gently until . 
 done. Keep moving it about in the saucepan 
 for the first few minutes, that it may be well 
 mixed. It must not cease boiling after reach- 
 ing boiling point. Serve with wine sauce or a 
 little jam. A large pudding may be made with 
 very httle more expense by adding another egg, 
 another half-pint of milk, and a table- 
 spoonful of flour. Time, forty minutes to 
 steam. Sufficient for four persons. Probable 
 cost, 6d. 
 
 CUSTARD SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINC& 
 
 Mix a pint of milk, sweetened and flavoured, 
 with two eggs lightly beaten. Put this into 
 a saucepan and stir it gently till it thickens, 
 but it must not boil. Pour it in a tureen or a 
 glass dish, and, just before serving, add a little 
 sugar and a table-spoonful of brandy, and grate 
 a little nutmeg over the top. This sauce is 
 good with fruit tarts as well as sweet puddings. 
 Time, about ten minutes to thicken. Suflicient 
 for a moderate-sized pudding. Probable cost, 
 4d., exclusive of the brandy. 
 
 CUSTARD TARTLETS. 
 
 Line some patty-pans with a good crust. 
 Make a custard (see Ctjstaed, Baked), flavour 
 it nicely, and three parts fill the pans with the 
 custard. Bake the tartlets in a gentle oven. 
 Take them out, let them cool, and spread a 
 little sugar icing over them. This is made by 
 mixing the whites of two eggs with two ounces 
 of pounded loaf sugar. Strew a little more 
 sugar on the top, and bake them in a gentle 
 oven until the icing is crisp. If a richer tartlet 
 is wanted, a little jam may be put under the 
 custard. Time, about a quarter of an hour to 
 bake the tartlets, five or six minutes to harden 
 the icing. Probable cost, 2d. each. Allow one 
 for each person. 
 
 CUSTARD WITHOUT EGGS. 
 
 Mix one large table-spoonful of ground rice or 
 cornflour with a little cold milk Flavour a 
 pint of milk with any flavouring that may be 
 preferred, sweeten it, and pour it boiling over 
 the rice, stirring it all the time to prevent its 
 getting into lumps. Return it to the saucepan, 
 and boil it two or three minutes. When cold, 
 it may be used instead of custard for fruit 
 tarts or stewed fruit. Time, three minutes 
 to boil. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for one 
 pint. 
 
 CUTLET BAT. 
 
 A cutlet bat is used to flatten cutlets so that 
 they can be evenly and smoothly covered with 
 
 M 
 
 egg arid bread-crumbs or frying batter. The 
 cutlets should be trimmed evenly, and then 
 struck sharply with the flat side of the bat. 
 
 CUTLETS {k I'ltalienne). 
 
 Cut two pounds of the fillet of veal in slices 
 about three-quarters of an inch thick. Shape 
 them into round cutlets three inches in diameter, 
 flour them well, and fry them in hot butter until 
 done enough. When they are browned the pan 
 
 CUTLETS A l'italienne. 
 
 should be held high above the fire, and covered 
 so that the cutlets may become sufficiently 
 cooked without being dry. Serve them on 
 macaroni, which has been stewed until tender, 
 and send brown gravy to table in a tureen. The 
 gravy should be well flavoured with fresh toma- 
 toes, when seasonable. At other times tomato 
 sauce may be used. Time, a quarter of an hour 
 to fry the cutlets. 
 
 CUTLETS (a la Maintenon). 
 
 Cutlets were, it is said, first served in this way 
 under the direction of Madame de Maintenon, to 
 tempt the failing appetite of Louis XIV. Ac- 
 cording to the original recipe they should be 
 dressed en papillate. Cut up and trim the cut- 
 lets, removing as much as possible of the fat. 
 Next chop up finely a little raw ham, some but- 
 ton mushrooms, a small piece of shallot, parsley, 
 and a pinch of thyme; add pepper and salt- 
 Take the cutlets and brown them quickly on 
 both sides in a very hot frying-pan slightly 
 greased, and wrap them up two or three at a time 
 in some well-oiled paper with a dessert-spoonful 
 of the chopped mixture and about the same 
 quantity of butter. Cook them in a brisk oven 
 for about ten minutes, and serve them in the 
 paper, the object of which is to keep in and im- 
 pregnate the cutlets with the fiavour. These 
 cutlets are supposed, properly speaking, to be 
 cooked on a grill over a charcoal fire. French 
 cooks mark the paper with a hot iron to resemble 
 the marking of the gridiron. 
 
 CUTLETS (a la Venitienne). 
 
 Chop separately half a pint of mushrooms, two 
 shallots, a little parsley, and a sprig of thyme. 
 Mix them thoroughly and stew them for ten 
 minutes over a small fire in a little butter, with 
 a slice of fat bacon cut into dice. Sprinkle a 
 little salt and pepper over two pounds of veal 
 cutlets, put them into the saucepan, and cook 
 them gently till quite tender. Add a large 
 spoonful of tomato sauce. Draw the saucepan 
 from the Are for a minute or two, then thicken 
 the sauce with the well-beaten yolks of three 
 eggs mixed with a little cream. The sauce must 
 not boil after the eggs are added. Before 
 serving, squeeze in the juice of a lemon. Time, 
 one hour. Probable cost. Is. 2d. per pound. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
CUT 
 
 178 
 
 DAB 
 
 CUTLETS (au Jambon). 
 
 Cutlets au jambon are cooked in the same way 
 as Cutlets a la Chingara (sec Cutlets, Veal, a la 
 Chingaea), with the exception of ham being 
 substituted for the tongue. 
 
 CUTLETS, LAMB (a la Dauphine). 
 
 Cut two pounds of cutlets from the best end of 
 the neck, shape them neatly, trim off the fat 
 and skin, and leave about an inch of bone bare. 
 Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stew- 
 pan. Let it get quite hot, then fry the cutlets 
 in it for a few minutes, but do not let the butter 
 brown. Drain them, and let the.butter cool; mix 
 with it the yolks of three eggs. Pass the cut- 
 lets through it until they are thickly covered. 
 Strew bread-crumbs over them and fry them 
 once more. Dish them in a circle, with a puree 
 of green peas in the middle of the dish. Time, 
 half an hour. Probable cost. Is. per pound. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 CUTLETS OF LOBSTER OR CRAB. 
 
 Mince very finely and pound in a mortar the 
 flesh of a small hen lobster or a crab, and season 
 it with salt and cayenne, whilst it is being 
 pounded. Put one ounce of butter into a sauce- 
 pan, and dredge very slowly into it one table- 
 spoonful of flour; when smooth add a gill of 
 water. Stir till the sauce boils, then add a little 
 cream, a tea-spoonful of lobster butter {see 
 LoBSTEE Buttee) and the pounded fish. Stir 
 the mixture over the fire till it is quite hot, then 
 take it out in a, table-spoon, and lay it on a 
 large dish. When quite cold, make it up in the 
 shape of mutton cutlets, brush these over with 
 beaten egg, strew finely-grated bread-crumbs 
 over them, and fry them in boiling lard or drip- 
 ping till lightly browned. Stick a little bit of 
 claw into each cutlet, and garnish the dish with 
 parsley. Time to fry, two or three minutes. 
 Probable cost, one large lobster. Is. 6d. to 
 2s. 6d. Sufficient for a large dish. 
 
 CUTLETS, SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Put an ounce of butter into a saucepan, place 
 it over a slow fire, and mix very gradually with 
 it an ounce of fine flour. Let it brown slightly, 
 then add enough boiling water to make it as 
 thick as cream, season with salt and cayenne, 
 and vary the flavour by the addition of finely- 
 chopped gherkins, mushroom or walnut pickle, 
 fresh tomatoes, or tomato sauce, a minced 
 shallot, and a glass of red wine, etc., etc. Time, 
 a few minutes. Sufficient, a quarter of a pint of 
 sauce for one pound of cutlets. 
 CUTLETS, VEAL (a la Chingara). 
 
 Take two pounds of the best part of a fillet of 
 veal. Cut it into neat slices not less than au inch 
 thick, and shape these neatly in rounds the size 
 of the top of a tea-cup. Have a piece of cold 
 boiled tongnie for each cutlet, as nearly as pos- 
 sible the same size and shape. Put the trim- 
 mings of the cutlets, a little piece of rasped ham, 
 a carrot, a large onion, a bunch of savoury herbs, 
 and a sprig of parsley, into a saucepan with a 
 pint of good veal stock. Let them simmer 
 gently for an hour or more. Strain the liquid, 
 and put it on one side for use. Flour the cut- 
 lets, and fry them in hot butter till they are 
 sufficiently cooked, but not dried; plenty of 
 butter or lard should be used, and when they are 
 
 brown on both sides they should be held high 
 above the fire for a few minutes, and covered. 
 By this means they wiU be done through. Drain 
 them from the fat, and keep them hot. Put 
 one ounce of butter into a stewpan, dredge over 
 it very gradually one ounce of flour, and keep 
 stirring till it browns, but it must not burn. 
 Mix with it the strained gravy, and any trim- 
 mings there may be of the tongue, finely minced. 
 Warm the round pieces of tongue in this, and 
 put one on each veal cutlet. Serve the cutlets 
 in a circular form, add salt and pepper to the 
 sauce, if necessary, and put it in the middle. 
 Time, a quarter of an hour to fry the cutlets. 
 
 CUTLETS, VEAL, WITH TOMATOES. 
 
 Brush cutlets over with salad oil, sprinkle 
 with a, little cayenne, and grill nicely. Broil. 
 Split open some tomatoes and fry them, and 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS WITH TOMATOES. 
 
 then place them on cutlets, setting a tiny 
 sprig of parsley on each. Serve up hot. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. per pound. 
 
 CYGNET, TO ROAST. 
 
 Truss this bird in the same way as a goose. 
 Make a stuffing of three pounds of beef, fat and 
 lean together, chop it small with three boiled 
 onions, a quarter of a pound of butter, a table- 
 spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, and a 
 whole nutmeg grated. Pound it smoothly in a 
 mortar, stuff the cygnet, and sew it up securely, 
 to prevent the gravy escaping. It is generally 
 cooked in the same way as haunch of venison, 
 with a thick crust over it, but this is unneces- 
 sary. The gravy may be kept in by covering the 
 bird with paper from the outset : heat it gradu- 
 ally through, baste it patiently and thoroughly, 
 and when it is nearly finished, bring it near 
 the fire to brown, removing the paper. Send 
 it to table with a sauce made of equal 
 quantities of strong beef gravy and port wine. 
 Red currant jelly should also be served with 
 it. Cygnets should be roasted at or before 
 Christmas, after which time they decidedly 
 deteriorate in quality. They make a very 
 handsome and delicious dish. Time to roast, 
 from two to three hours. Probable cost, un- 
 certain, the birds not being often offered for 
 sale. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. 
 
 DABS. 
 
 The dab is a small but excellent fish, caught 
 mostly in rivers near the sea. The Thames fur- 
 nishes a particularly good kind, which when 
 fried or dressed in buttered paper are very 
 
DAC 
 
 179 
 
 DAM 
 
 delicate. They are at their best during the 
 latter part of autumn. If soaked iu salt and 
 ■water before being cooked they will be much 
 improved in flavour, and the muddy taste got 
 rid of. Send to table with a cut lemon. 
 
 DACE. 
 
 This fish, like many of its class, scarcely re- 
 pays the trouble of cooking. But when season- 
 able, which it is from midsummer to nearly the 
 end of the year, it is much enjoyed by many 
 anglers. It should be either fried or broiled, 
 and served with a sauce made of a little lemon- 
 juice and cayenne pepper. 
 
 DAFFODIL PUDDING. 
 
 Grate four carrots into a quarter of a pound 
 of flour and a quarter of a pound of' bread- 
 crumbs; add a quarter of a pound of brown 
 sugar, and the grated rind of two lemonsl Add 
 a quarter of a pound of finely chopped suet; 
 or rub in a quarter of a pound of dripping. 
 Add half a tea-spoonful of salt, and beat up 
 two eggs and stir in. Beat the mixture, add- 
 ing a tea-cupful of milk, a little at a time. 
 Butter a shaped mould, pour in the mixture, 
 cover with a buttered paper, and steam for 
 two hours. Serve with custard sauce. 
 OAGMAR FRITTERS. 
 
 Make a batter of the consistency of cream with 
 half a pound of flour, a little salt, and five well- 
 beaten eggs. Beat it for some minutes and add 
 a little milk, powdered sugar, a tea-spoonful 
 each of grated lemon-peel and powdered cinna- 
 mon ; then beat ag^in and throw in an ounce 
 and a half of candied citron cut iiito small 
 pieces. Put into a stewpan a piece of butter; 
 as soon as that is dissdlved, pour in the batter, 
 and cook slowly, taking care not to let it stick 
 to the pan. -When it becomes solid and in some 
 degree baied, take it out and place it on a dish; 
 put more lard or butter into the stewpan, cut 
 the paste into strips about a finger's length, 
 giving it a slit at each end to make it rise, which 
 it will do very quickly, and lay them in the boil- 
 ing fat. When done, serve on a napkin, or with 
 a. layer of sifted sugar. Time, twenty minutes. 
 
 OAL, OR DHAL. 
 
 Boil half a pint of lentils in jne quart of 
 ■water until quite soft and pulpy; set them 
 aside. Cut up an onion, into thin rings, fry it 
 in one ounce of butter, and add to it two table- 
 spoonfuls of curry sauce (see Cuebt Sauce). 
 iThen put in your dentils, boil for about twenty 
 minutes, and serve with a dish of plain boiled 
 rice. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 DAMSON CHEESE. 
 
 Put some sound, freshly-gathered damsons 
 into an earthenware jar, cover it closely, and 
 place it in a pan of cold water on the fire. Let 
 it boil, and as the water wastes away keep add- 
 ing more until the fruit is quite tender. Then, 
 whilst they are still warm, remove the damsons, 
 skin and stone them, and press them through a 
 coarse sieve into the juice in the jar. Put half a 
 pound of loaf sugar, broken into small pieces, to 
 every pound of pulp, and boil all together 
 quickly to a stiff paste. A few of the kernels 
 may be blanched and left in, and these will much 
 
 improve the flavour. The sugared fruit should 
 be boiled until it sticks to the spoon in a mass, 
 and leaves the pan quite dry; and if, when 
 lightly touched, it leaves the fingers, you may 
 know that it will keep well. Put it quickly into 
 jars or shallow moulds; lay brandied or oiled 
 papers' over it, and cover the vessels closely.. 
 Keep in a dry place. Before being served, it may 
 be cut into shapes. Damson cheese is usually 
 served at dessert. Time, two or three hours to 
 draw out the juice ; about two hours to boil the 
 sugar and fruit together. Probable cost, 9d. or 
 lOd. a four-ounce jar. Sufllcient, one pound of 
 damsons for a small jar. 
 
 DAMSON CHEESE (another way). 
 
 Select ripe, sound, fruit. Put the damsons 
 into a large stone jar, and allow a quarter of a 
 pound of sugar to every qusirt of fruit. Set the 
 jar up to its neck in a pot of boiling water, or 
 place it in a very cool; oven till the fruit is 
 tender ; then remove the stones with a fork, and 
 boil all together in a preserving-pan till it is a 
 thick pulp. Add half a pound of pounded loaf 
 sugar to each pound of fruit, and boil it again 
 until it leaves the pan quite dry, and is a thick 
 mass. Be careful to stir alwaysor it will burn. 
 Put it into moulds with a brandied paper over 
 the top. Tie down, and store in a dry ^place. 
 Time, two hours and a half to boil. Probable 
 cost, 8d. to lOd. per -small pot. Sufficient, one 
 pint for a very small pot. 
 
 DAMSON DROPS. 
 
 Pick the stalks from some damsons, wipe 
 them and put them into a moderately-heated 
 oven to bake, but do not let them burst. When 
 sufficiently done take off the skins, and remove 
 the stones ; add some crushed lump sugar to the 
 pulp, and mix until it is a stiff pastes Drop the 
 mixture upon paper in small quantities of^ uni- 
 form size, and put them into a moderately-^ 
 heated oven to dry. When sufficiently dry, 
 take them out and turn them down over a sieve, 
 when, by damping the paper, the drops will fall 
 on the sieve, and must be again hardened in a 
 cool oven. Store them in a box with paper 
 between each layer. They will keep a long time 
 in this way if the air be excluded from them. 
 
 DAMSON JAM (Bullace or Common Piiim). 
 
 All fruits to be preserved should be gathered 
 after two successive dry days, if possible. Get 
 damsons quite ripe and freshly gathered; boil 
 them forty minutes without sugar, then simmer 
 and skim fifteen minutes with three-quarters of 
 a pound of good sugar to each pound of dam- 
 sons. Common sugar is thought by some per- 
 sons to be good enough if or- dark-coloured 
 preserves, but it is not the most economical, 
 as will be shown by the quantity of scum which 
 rises to the surface. Put' into pots and cover 
 with egged paper, which readily sticks to the 
 pots and excludes the air. A paper dipped in 
 brandy may be laid on the top of the jam, but 
 it is not necessary. Store in a dry place. Prob- 
 able cost, 6d. to 8d. per pound pot. 
 
 DAMSON JAM (another way). 
 
 The broken damsons, of which there must 
 always be a quantity in a large gathering, will 
 make an excellent, jam (teject poor ones); Put 
 six pounds of damsons without stones, or the 
 
DAM 
 
 180 
 
 DAM 
 
 stones may be removed after, into a preserving- 
 pan with one pint of water, boil till the fruit 
 may be rubbed through a sieve, and to every 
 pound of pulp allow one pound of sugar. The 
 sugar must first be boiled to a syrup, and then 
 added to the pulp. Stir the jam, and, when 
 sufficiently boiled, test it on a plate, and store 
 in a dry place with brandied or oiled paper, and 
 an outside covering of tissue-paper egged down. 
 Allow one hour for boiling. 
 
 DAMSON JELLY. 
 
 Take the required quantity of fine ripe dam- 
 sons and one-third of the quantity of bullaccs. 
 Put them, after separating the stalks from the 
 fruit, into a large stone jar, first cutting them 
 with a knife as they are put in. Tie down with 
 paper, and place the jar in a moderate oven over- 
 night. When the juice is poured off, strain, 
 weigh, and boil it quickly for twenty-five min- 
 utes without sugar; then add ten ounces of 
 sugar to each pound of juice, and boil and skim 
 until the jelly will set. During the whole time 
 of boiling the jelly should be stirred. 
 
 DAMSON PUDDING. 
 
 Shred up very finely four ounces of good beef 
 suet, and rub it well into half a pound of flour. 
 Use as much water as will make a smooth firm 
 paste, then line a well-buttered basin, and cut a 
 cover for the top. Pill with the damsons, and 
 sweeten to taste. Tie a floured cloth firmly 
 over the top, and boil steadily for two and a 
 half to three hours. Apples and damsons do 
 very well together. Probable cost, 8d. Suf- 
 ficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 DAMSON, SOLID. ^ 
 
 Skin, core, and quarter one pound and a 
 quarter of good boiling apples, put them into a 
 preserving-pan with one pound of damson-juice 
 (extracted from the fruit by placing it in a 
 cool oven at night, or setting it in a jar in 
 hot water), boil them both together for half an 
 hour, then add three-quarters of a pound of good 
 pounded sugar, and after the sugar has dis- 
 solved boil for another ten minutes. If the 
 apples are good, and the recipe carefully 
 attended to, small moulds of this solid fruit will 
 help to fill up successfully many vacancies on a 
 Bupper-table. 
 
 DAMSON TART. 
 
 Line the edges of a tart-dish with a crust, puff 
 or short, according to liking, and pile the dish 
 liigh with damsons, laying a small cup in the 
 bottom to prevent the juice running over; one 
 pint and a half of damsons will require a 
 quarter of a pound of fine moist sugar, and it 
 should be equally placed amongst the fruit in 
 the dish. If a short crust be made, send the 
 dish to table with sifted sugar over the top, 
 but if puff pastry is used, brush it over with 
 cold water and sprinkle white sugar upon it be- 
 fore putting it in the oven. Time, half to three- 
 quarters of an hour. Probable cost. Is. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 DAMSON WINE. 
 
 Get sound ripe fruit, reject all that is stale 
 and mouldy; pick off the stalks, and to four 
 gallons of damsons add four gallons of boiling 
 water. Let them soak four or five days, stirring 
 
 them regularly every day with the hand. Add 
 to every gallon of liquor three and a half pounds 
 of good lump sugar, and when this is quite dis- 
 solved, put the whole into a cask with one 
 quart of spirits to every three gallons. Let it 
 remain twelve months, when it may be bottled 
 for use. 
 DAMSONS, BAKED, FOR KEEPING. 
 
 Fill some large stone jars with not over-ripe 
 damsons — none of them must be crushed — and 
 add to them half their weight in pounded sugar. 
 Put the fruit and sugar in layers into the jars. 
 Let the oven get cool, and place the jars, well 
 covered over the top with small flat slate stones, 
 in it. When the damsons have baked from five to 
 six hours they will be done, and should be re- 
 moved at once to get cold. The top should be 
 first covered with a round of white paper, then 
 melted mutton suet to about one inch in thick- 
 ness, and lastly, a piece of brown paper or 
 bladder so secured as to exclude the air. If kept 
 in a dry, well-ventilated room, damsons so pre- 
 pared will keep good for three months. 
 
 DAMSONS, BOTTLED. 
 
 BuUaces or damsons are valuable for winter 
 use, and, bottled like green gooseberries, make 
 good tartSi. Put them into wide-necked glass 
 bottles, tie the tops over with bladder, and set 
 them in a boiler of cold water, with a little 
 straw at the bottom. Bring the water to the 
 boil, and then remove the pot from the fire, 
 but let the bottles remain to become cold. In a 
 few hours, or better, the next day, remove the 
 pieces of bladder, and replace them by tight- 
 fitting corks, first filling the bottles with pounded 
 sugar. The corks should be secured with wax. 
 
 DAMSONS, COMPOTE OF. 
 
 Make a pint of syrup in the following man- 
 ner. Take eight ounces of loaf sugar and one 
 pint of water ; let it simmer on the fire until the 
 sugar has melted, then throw in the white of an 
 egg, and take off the scum as it rises. When the 
 syrup has boiled fifteen minutes, drop into it. 
 
 DAKioLES (jsee p. 181). 
 
 one by one, a quart of sound damsons, and 
 simmer until soft, without breaking them. Ee- 
 move them from the syrup, and boil it again 
 until rather thick, let it cool, and pour it over 
 the damsons, which should have been previously 
 arranged in a glass dish. A glass of whipped 
 cream is a nice accompaniment to this dish. 
 Boil syrup fifteen minutes; damsons, five 
 minutes. 
 
 DAMSONS, PRESERVED. 
 
 Gather the damsons while the sun is on them, 
 and when there has been no rain for twenty-four 
 hours at least. They should be quite ripe. 
 
DAM 
 
 181 
 
 DAT 
 
 whole, and without blemish. To each jar, con- 
 taining one quart of fruit, allow half a pound of 
 .good loaf sugar, and sprinkle it equally among 
 the fruit in the jar, then set it in a vessel of 
 cold water over a moderate fire and simmer, 
 after it has come to a boil, fifty minutes, when 
 the damsons will be soft, and must be allowed 
 to get cold. Lose no time in completing the 
 3)reBerve. Untie the covers, and pour the juice 
 into a preserving-pan, where it may boil fifteen 
 minutes, and must then be strained over the 
 fruit. Fasten down when cool, and store in a 
 dry cool place. 
 
 DAMSONS, PRESERVED (another way). 
 
 Prick the fruit, and place it in scalding water 
 for about a minute, lift the fruit into a dry dish, 
 and strew powdered sugar over it. Kext day 
 pour off the syrup, boil and skim it, pour it 
 again over the fruit, and allow it to stand for a 
 day or two. Boil the syrup once more, add it 
 again to the fruit, and boil both together for a 
 short time, taking care not to break the dam- 
 sons. When ready, pour into jars, and when 
 cold, add brandied papers, and close carefully. 
 Half a pound of sugar is sufficient for each 
 pound of fruit. ^ 
 
 DANDELION. 
 
 The leaves of this common field plant make an 
 excellent salad. They should be washed, dried, 
 placed in a salad bowl, and dressed with oil, 
 "vinegar, salt, and mustard in the usual way. 
 Or they may be cooked in the same way as 
 spinach, with the addition of a couple of table- 
 spoonfuls of good gravy or stock. 
 
 DANDELION, STEWED. 
 
 The first mention of this dish would perhaps 
 inspire most English people with aversion, but 
 we can honestly advise them to try it. It is an 
 inexpensive dish, and easily obtained; for fresh 
 "growths after showery weather may be had 
 throughout summer and winter. Gather an 
 equal quantity of fresh dandelion and sorrel 
 leaves. Pick off all the withered tips and hard 
 parts of the roots; shred them into fine strips, 
 and wash them free from grit. Put the dande- 
 lion by itself into a copper stewpan, cover it 
 with a small quantity of boiling water, and 
 stew until nearly tender; add the sorrel, and 
 simmer until the water has evaporated and the 
 whole is soft. Mash with a wooden spoon ; stir 
 in a lump of butter; flavour with pepper and 
 salt, and serve like spinach. The dish may be 
 garnished in a variety of ways, either with hard- 
 boiled eggs, sippets of fried bread, or slices of 
 boiled carrot cut into shapes. It is usually 
 served with white meats, as veal, sweetbreads, 
 €tc. ; but it is excellent as a garnish for poached 
 eggs. Some persons cook this vegetable without 
 sorrel, but to our taste it is too bitter, and wants 
 toning down. It is impossible to fix a price for 
 the plant, as it is not a market article. It will, 
 in all probability, be more often found on the 
 tables of the rich than of the poor, not from its 
 cost, but from its peculiar taste and flavour. 
 
 DANDELION WINE. 
 
 Get four quarts of the yellow petals of the 
 dandelion, and pour over them into » tub one 
 gallon of warm water that has previously been 
 boiled. Stir it well round, and cover with a 
 
 blanket, to stand three days, during which time 
 it should be stirred frequently. Strain off the 
 flowers from the liquid, and boil it for half an 
 hour, with the rind of a lemon, the rind of an 
 orange, a little ginger, and three and a half 
 pounds of lump sugar to each gallon; add the 
 sugar and lemon, from which the rinds were re- 
 moved, in slices to the boiling liquor, and when 
 cool ferment with yeast on a slice of toast. 
 When it has stood a day or two put it into a 
 cask, and in two months bottle. This wine is 
 said to be specially adapted to all persons suffer- 
 ing from liver complaints. 
 
 DARIOLES. 
 
 Butter the dariole moulds and line them with 
 a thin paste made as follows. Beat half a pound 
 of butter to a cream; stir into it very gradu- 
 ally one pound of flour, with which three ouncea 
 of fine sugar has been mixed, and the yolks of 
 three and the whites of two eggs, beaten separ- 
 ately. When the moulds are lined, have ready a 
 
 DAEI0tE MOULDS. 
 
 custard to fill them, composed of the following 
 ingredients : — Eight well-beaten eggs, without 
 the whites, six crushed macaroons, two ounces 
 of sugar, half a pint of cream, and half the 
 grated rind of a small lemon. These should be 
 stirred over the fire until the custard thickens ; 
 when it is cool the darioles may be filled and 
 baked. They will take fifteen minutes in a 
 quick oven; they should rise like a souffle, and 
 be served at once with sugar strewn over, or 
 they will fall. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient 
 to fill twelve moulds. 
 
 DARIOLES (ii la Duchesse). 
 
 Proceed as before directed. This recipe differs 
 in allowing more time for baking, and requiring 
 no boiling of custard. Mix half a pint of milk 
 with two ounces of flour, three ounces of 
 pounded sugar, six well-beaten eggs, and two 
 ounces of butter into a batter, and put it at 
 once into the moulds, first adding a little essence 
 of vanilla, drop by drop, until the mixture is 
 flavoured. The essence of lemon, almonds, or 
 cinnamon may be substituted for vanilla. The 
 moulds shoiild be only three-parts filled, and 
 from twenty-five to thirty-five minutes allowed 
 for baking. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient 
 for seven moulds. 
 
 DARTMOUTH PIE. 
 
 Mince two pounds of mutton, from which all 
 the fat has been cut away, and add to it one 
 pound of finely-shredded beef suet, one pound 
 of well-washed currants, four ounces of sugar, 
 and a little salt and nutmeg. Make a paste by 
 boiling two ounces of butter with four ounces of 
 -beef suet, and working it into eight ounces of 
 flour. Cover the mixture with this paste, and 
 bake for an hour and a half. Probable cost, 
 4s. 6d. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. 
 
 DATE CAKES (for Dessert). 
 
 Insert in place of the stones, which should be 
 carefully removed, blanched almonds. Line a 
 
DAU 
 
 182 
 
 DEV 
 
 square tin with rice-paper ; fill in layers of 
 dates, and press down with a weight. Turn out 
 on a glass dish. Garnish with slices of orange. 
 Probable cost, lOd. to Is. per pound. 
 
 DAUPHINES. 
 
 Line some patty-pan'S with crust a quarter of 
 an inch thick, decorate the edges, ptit a littl.; 
 Jain ih each, "and bake in a moderate oven for 
 about fifteen minutes until crisp; then take 
 them out and let tliem cool. Whip the whites 
 of four eggs to a Stiff froth, mix in half a pound 
 of castor sugar quickly, and form a pyramid of 
 this on each tart. Put them back into a very 
 cool oven to become firm, but do not let them 
 get brown. Set them aside in a cool place till 
 they are cold. A few drops of cochineal added 
 to the white of an egg will give a delicate pink 
 tint to the dauphines. Probable cost. Is. 2d. 
 
 DERWENTWATER CAKES. 
 
 Divide four eggs, beat up the yolks and whisk 
 the whites to a froth; Kub half a pound of good 
 fresh butter into one pound of flour, add half a 
 pound of well-washed currants, and the same 
 quantity of powdered sugar. Mix the flour with 
 the eggs to a stiff paste. KoU and cut into 
 small round cakes. Bake in a slow oven for 
 fifteen minutes. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Suffi- 
 cient for one dozen or more cakes. 
 
 DESSERT BISCUITS. 
 
 Whip half a pound of good fresh butter to a 
 cream. If the weather be cold, plaoe it beside 
 the fire before commencing operations, but it 
 should not oil. Stir in gradually one pound of 
 flour and half a pound of sugar, then add the 
 flavouring of lemon, ratafia, cinnamon, etc., and 
 lastly, mix all together -with the beaten yolks 
 of half a dozen eggs. Butter a paper and lay it 
 over a cake tin, drop sonie of the mixture on it 
 at equal distances, so separating the biscuits 
 that they may have space to spread, which they 
 will do as soon as they get warm. See that the 
 oven is not too hot, and that they do not get 
 highly coloured. Time, twelve to eighteen 
 minutes. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 DESSERT CAKES. 
 
 Beat a quarter pfi a pound of butter to a 
 ■^ream, and add to it gradually an equaL weight 
 of finely-sifted sugar, and the same of ground 
 rice, and as much baking powder as would cover 
 a sixpence. Mix thoroughly, then stir in three 
 well-beaten eggs. Pour into well-oiled tins, and 
 bake in a good oven. Time to bake, ten 
 minutes. Sufficient for one dozen cakes. Prob- 
 able cost, 8d. 
 
 DESSERT ICE CURRANTS. 
 
 To the beaten whites of two eggs add a 
 quarter of a pint of clear spring water, and mix 
 them thoroughly together. Select some fine 
 bunches of currants, red and white. Immerse 
 each bunch separately in the mixture, and let 
 them all drip a minute,' then roll them carefully 
 in a quantity of finely-sifted sug^ar ; let the roll- 
 ing be repeated. Lay them with a, space be- 
 tween each bunch on paper to dry and'become 
 crystallised. 
 
 DEVIL, DRY. 
 
 Score the drumstick, gizzard, or any other part 
 of turkey, fowl, veal, or mutton kidney. Hub 
 
 the meat to be devilled with pepper and salt, 
 put a thick coating of made mustard over this, 
 with as much cayenne as liked. Broil over a 
 clear fire. 
 
 DEVIL GRAVY. 
 
 Take three table-spoonfuls of melted butter, 
 and the same of good grayy ; £idd to it a dessert- 
 spoonful of cayenne pepper, one of pounded loaf 
 sugar, a glass of ketchup, and the same of white 
 wine, with the juice of a lemon. Make all 
 warm together, then pour it over the devilled 
 turkey, goose, or fowl. 
 
 DEVIL, WET. 
 
 Score the leg of a roasted turkey, and fill up 
 the cuts with a seasoning of mustard, pepper, 
 and salt; then broil over a clear fire, and pour 
 over it when sent to table the following sauce, 
 made hot. To three table-spoonfuls of gravy 
 and one of melted butter, add a tea-spoonful 
 each of Ha.rvey's sauce, mushroom ketchup, 
 chilli vinegar, and mustard, a large wine-glass- 
 ful of port, a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and 
 a little cayenne and black pepper. More sea- 
 soning may be added, but this will be beat 
 regulated by the taste of the consumer. 
 
 DEVILLED BISCUIT. 
 
 M^ke a seasoning of cayenne, anchovy paste, 
 salt, and curry powder; butter some captain's 
 biscuits, lay the mixture over and grill, or make 
 a paste of cheese, mustard, and salti and spread 
 over when toasted. Butter unsparingly. Time, 
 from five to ten minutes. Probable cost; Id. per 
 biscuit. 
 
 DEVILLED BONES. 
 
 Take half a tea-spoonful each of ground black 
 pepper and salt, one tea-spoonful of made mus- 
 tard, a large pinch of cayenne, and half an ounce 
 of butter; put into a small basin, and mix 
 together thoroughly with the blade of a knife. 
 Take the bones of cold ribs or sirloin of beef, 
 leaving just a little meat upon them; spread 
 the mixture upon them with a knife, and^grill 
 over a clear fire until they are nicely browned, 
 which will take from ten to fifteen minutes. 
 Probable cost, 4d. 
 
 DEVIZES PIE. 
 
 Take thin slices from a calf's head when cold, 
 and some of the brains, pieces of cold lamb, 
 pickled tongue, a few slices Of bacon, and some 
 hard-boiled eggs cut neatly into rings; with 
 these fill a ^ie-dish. Season with pepper, salt, 
 cayenne, and: spice; arrange the meat in layers; 
 see that all is well-seasoned, and fill up the dish 
 with a rich gravy. Bake in a slow oven, with a 
 cover of flour and water paste, and remove when 
 cold. The pie must then be turned out on a 
 dish: Garnish with parsley and pickled eggs 
 sliced. Time to bake, one hour. 
 
 DEVON CAKES. 
 
 Eub half a pound of good fresh butter into 
 one pound of flour, beat up an egg and mix it 
 with half a pint of milk, and sweeten the milk 
 with a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar. Mix 
 the flour and milk together into a paste, and 
 loll it out thin to be cut into any shapes liked. 
 Bake for ten minutes on tin plates in a quick 
 oven, with grated loaf sugar over them. Prob- 
 able cost for this quantity. Is, 4d. 
 
DEV 
 
 183 
 
 DOR 
 
 DEVONIAN PUDDING. 
 
 Put a pint of milk into a saucepan, and stir 
 into it gradually two table-spoonfuls of fine flour 
 until it boils. Wben it thickens slightly, pour 
 it into a basin to cool. Mix in a separate dish 
 the whites of two eggs and the yolks of four well 
 beaten, the grated rind of a small lemon, eight 
 ounces of sugar, and three ounces of butter pre- 
 viously beaten to a cream. Blend this thor- 
 oughly with the mixture of milk and flour. Pour 
 into a well-buttered pie-dish, round which has 
 been placed an edging of puff paste, and bake 
 in a quick oven for twenty-five minutes. When 
 ready, dust pounded sugar over it^ and serve 
 hot. It may also be used cold. Probable 
 cost. Is. 
 
 DEVONSHIRE BRANDY PUDDING. 
 
 Take the remains of a cold plum pudding, cut 
 it into long strips half an inch thick, and steep 
 them in brandy or rum ior a few minutes. Fill 
 a buttered mould, crossing them neatly and 
 uniformly one over the other. Prepare a cus- 
 tard of five eggs, a pint of milk, and a flavour- 
 ing of lemon and nutmeg ; pour as much of this 
 into the mould as will quite fill it, and send the 
 remainder to table poured over the pudding. A 
 floured cloth must be tied over the mould, and 
 it should be kept boiling for one hour. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons, 
 
 DEVONSHIRE CAKE. 
 
 Put into an earthenware pan four pounds of 
 flour, and rub well into it one pound of clotted 
 cream or butter beaten to a cream. Add three- 
 quarters of a pound of moist sugar, one pound 
 of currants, a quarter of a pound of lemon-peel 
 cut small, and a little nutmeg. Beat up two 
 eggs, and add them to the mixture, with a pint 
 of milk, a salt-spoonful of saffron steeped in 
 boiling water, and a quarter of a pint o£ fresh 
 yeast. The milk should be only moderately 
 warm; if too hot the cake will be heavy. Mix 
 all together, and cover till next morning, when 
 it will be ready to put into tins which will hold 
 about a pound and a half. Bake in a quick oven 
 for an hour and a half.. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. 
 Sufficient to make six cakes. 
 
 DEVONSHIRE CLOTTED CREAM. 
 
 The highly esteemed clotted, cream of Devon- 
 shire is procured by straining the milk, as it 
 comes Jresh from the cow, into large metal pans, 
 which are placed in a cool dairy, and kept un- 
 moved for twenty-four hours in winter and half 
 that time in summer. It is then scalded over a 
 charcoal fire, the time for scalding depending 
 on the heat of ihe fire and the quantity of milk 
 to be Bcaldefl ; the slower it is done, the better 
 and the thicker will be the cream. It is 
 skimmed the following day. A great quantity 
 of this cream is sent to the London market, 
 where it fetches a high price. 
 
 DEVONSHIRE JUNKET. 
 
 Mix half a tearspoonf ul of powdered cinnamon 
 with a heaped table-spoonful of pounded sugar. 
 Pour over these a wine-glassful of brandy, and 
 stir until the sugar is dissolved. Add one quart 
 of quite new milk with a dessert-spoonful of 
 rennet. If the milk cannot be procured fresh 
 'from the cow', heat it until it is of the warmth of 
 new milk. Stir it well, and let it remain until 
 
 it is set, then spread some clotted cream on the 
 top, and strew sifted sugar over. Time, about 
 two hours to set the milk. Probable cost, 6d., 
 exclusive of the brandy and cream. Sufficient 
 for half a dozen persons. 
 
 DEVONSHIRE SQUAB PIE. 
 
 Take two pounds of chops fBom a neck of 
 mutton. Cut them short, and pare away some 
 of the fat. Peel, core, and slice about two 
 pounds of well-flavoured sour apples. Put a 
 layer of them in the bottom of a pie-dish with a 
 little sugar, and a sprinkling of ground allspice. 
 Place the chops next, and season with salt, 
 pepper, and finely-chopped onion. Continue 
 with alternate layers of apples and meat till all 
 be used up. Make an ordinary meat crust, line 
 the edges of the dish, and cover over the top, 
 adding a quarter of a pint of gravy or water. 
 Bake in a moderate oven one hour and a half. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 2d. Sufficient for six or seven 
 persons. 
 
 DEVONSHIRE SYLLABUB. 
 
 In the country where milk is to be had pure 
 and direct from its source, syllabubs are to be 
 seen on every table varied with the delicious 
 far-famed Devonshire junket. The quantity of 
 wine intended to be used for the syllabub is first 
 put into a large China bowl with sugar to taste. 
 It is then milked on till the bowl is full, and 
 afterwards when cold, it is- covered with clotted 
 cream. A little grated nutmeg, or pounded 
 cinnamon (or both may be used) is sprinkled over 
 the top when served. A pint of port and one 
 of sherry will make a large and excellent 
 syllabub. 
 
 DEVONSHIRE TASTY PUDDING. 
 
 This is a very favourite dish with people 
 who are fond of savouries; and it has the 
 additional merit of being a cheap one, too. 
 Melt an ounce of butter or dripping in a 
 pan, and fry one large Spanish onion cut into 
 ring;s; also slice and fry a large sour apple. 
 Drain off the fat. Cook and mash down one 
 pound of potatoes, and add to them half a 
 tea-cupful of milk and a little dripping or 
 butter. Line a, large pie-dish with the 
 potatoes, and sprinkle a little powdered sage 
 over. Put a layer of the fried onion and apple. 
 Lay in one pound of pork sausages, and prick' 
 over with a fork. Put another layer of potatoes., 
 Pour over this a batter made with flour, one* 
 egg, salt and pepper, and a little milk. Set in 
 a moderate oven and bake till nicely browned. 
 The best way to serve this dish is to make up 
 the rest of the potatoes into savoury balls, 
 and serve them with the pudding. 
 
 DORY, BOILED. 
 
 Cut off the fins, and lay the fish in a kettle of 
 cold water, salted in the proportion of three 
 ounces of salt to one gallon of water. Let the 
 water cover the fish, bring it to a boil gradu- 
 ally, and simmer till done. Be careful not to 
 break the skin. This unsightly, but very; ex- 
 cellent fish, is a near approach to the turbot in 
 the delicacy and firmness of the flesh. It is 
 boiled and served in the same manner as turbot, 
 with lobster, anchovy, or shrimp sauce, and 
 plain melted butter. Serve on a napkin. neatly 
 
DOR 
 
 184 
 
 DUG 
 
 rolled round the edge. Time, twenty to twenty- 
 five minutes, according to size, after the water 
 boils. (See also John Dobt.) 
 
 DORY, FILLETED. 
 
 Fillet a dory, cut it into convenient pieces for 
 serving, and dry thoroughly. Put a tea-spoon- 
 ful of minced parsley into a pan with a gill of 
 olive oil, and fry for five minutes ; add two 
 table-spoonfuls of flour, a pint of good fish 
 stock, and a little pepper and salt ; when smooth 
 put in the fillets, simmer for eight to ten min- 
 utes, then arrange neatly on a dish, garnished 
 with cut lemons. Probable cost, 2s. 
 
 DORY OR CAPER SAUCE. 
 
 Blend two ounces of butter with one table- 
 spoonful of flour, and stir it into a saucepan 
 containing the third part of a pint of boiling 
 water, add equal quantities of shrimps and 
 capers pounded, about two dessert-spoonfuls of 
 each, and boil for some minutes ; then remove 
 the saucepan from the flre, and stir in till dis- 
 solved an ounce more of butter, and two tea- 
 spoonfuls of whole capers. Serve in a tureen. 
 
 DOUGH NUTS, AMERICAN. 
 
 Into a pound of flour rub a piece of butter the 
 size of an egg. Add a little pounded allspice, 
 and two table-spoonfuls of sugar. Mix a table- 
 spoonful of yeast with four eggs, and a little 
 lukewarm milk. Work all well together, and 
 put the mixture in a warm place to rise. Then 
 roll it out about half an inch thick, cut into 
 pretty shapes, and fry in boiling oil or lard until 
 the nuts are a golden brown. Drain on a moiBt- 
 ened sieve, strew sifted sugar over the nuts, and 
 keep them in a dry place. Time to fry, five to 
 ten minutes. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. 
 
 DOUGH NUTS, AMERICAN (another way). 
 
 Rub four ounces of butter into three pounds 
 of fine flour; add one pound of sugar, a tea- 
 spoonful of powdered cinnamon, and a whole 
 nutmeg, grated. Whisk four eggs, and mix 
 them gradually with a gill of yeast and as much 
 of a pint of new milk, flavoured with rose-water, 
 as will make the flour into a soft dough. Cover 
 it up, warm to rise, and when sufliciently risen 
 make it into balls, or into any form liked, and 
 drop them into a saucepan of boiling lard. 
 When of a fine brown colour they are done, and 
 should be laid before the fire on a sieve to dry. 
 It sometimes happens that the nuts are insuffi- 
 ciently cooked in the middle. To ensure their 
 being done thoroughly, drop them into the lard 
 as soon as it boils. Time to boil, five or six 
 minutes. Probable cost for the above ingre- 
 dients, 2s. 6d. to 3s. 
 
 DRESDEN PATTIES. 
 
 For these patties, take off the outer crust of a 
 stale French roll, divide the crumb into slices, 
 and then into rounds, with a tin cutter. Make 
 the slices sufficiently thick to allow of the 
 middle being scooped out. Dip the croustades 
 into milk, drain well, smear with egg, and cover 
 with fine bread-raspings fried in butter to a 
 pale brown colour. They are then filled with a 
 compote of fruit, or they may be made savoury 
 and filled with minced fowl, ham, and tongue, 
 or with oysters, mushrooms, etc. Time to fry, 
 five minutes., 
 
 DRIPPING,^ CLARIFIED. 
 
 Make the dripping hot and pour it into boiling 
 water. Stir it for three or four minutes, then 
 leave it to get cold. The impurities will all 
 sink to the bottom, and may be easily removed 
 with a knife. Dripping may be used many 
 times for frying purposes, if it is clarified every 
 time. Every little piece of fat should be melted 
 down, and the dripping clarified. It may then 
 be used either for frying or for household pastry. 
 In making pastry good beef dripping is very 
 much to be preferred to cheap common butter. 
 
 DRIPPING. POTTED. 
 
 Take six pounds of beef dripping; boil it in 
 good soft water, and strain into a pan till cold ; 
 remove it from the pan, and clear off the gravy 
 that adheres to the under part ; repeat the boil- 
 ing process several times, and take away the 
 sediment. When quite clear, and free from 
 gravy, put the dripping into a saucepan with six 
 bay-leaves, a quarter of an ounce of white 
 pepper, a few cloves, and half a pound of salt. 
 Let it melt at a very gentle heat, and when it is 
 hot enough to pour strain it through a sieve 
 into the pot, and cover it over to get cold. Or 
 it may be melted without any addition, except 
 the salt, and, if required for pastry, this latter 
 mode is the preferable. 
 
 DUCK (k Ja Bearnoise). 
 
 Stew a duck in a little broth, half a glass of 
 white wine, and a bunch of herbs (bouquet 
 garni). Puti into another stewpan seven or 
 eight large onions cut in slices, and a bit of 
 butter, put on the fire, and turn often till they 
 get a good colour. Add a pinch of flour, moisten 
 with the liquor the duck was stewed in. Stew 
 the onions, and reduce the sauce; skim off the 
 fat, and add a squeeze of lemon; pour it over 
 the duck, and serve. Probable cost, 5s. 
 
 DUCK (a la Fran^ise). 
 
 Lard the breast of a duck with bacon, and 
 put it on the spit before a clear fire for twenty 
 minutes, and then into a stewpan of gravy pre- 
 viously prepared in the following manner. To 
 one pint of beef gravy add two dozen chestnuts, 
 roasted and peeled, two onions, sliced and fried 
 in butter, two sage-leaves, and a sprig of thyme ; 
 pepper and salt. When the duck has stewed 
 twenty minutes put it on a dish, add a quarter 
 of a pint of port wine to the gravy, a little 
 butter and flour to thicken, pour it hot over the 
 duck, and serve. Probable cost, 3s. to 4s. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 
 DUCK (a I'ltalienne). 
 
 Cook a duck en braise (see Dtjck, Bbaised, 
 WITH TuENips). Put two large table-spoonfuls 
 of oil into a stewpan, add a bunch of parsley, 
 some chives and mushrooms, mince them very 
 finely and stew for ten minutes, then thicken 
 with flour, and pour in the gravy from the duck, 
 and simmer for a few minutes longer. Skim and 
 strain the whole, which ought to be rather thick, 
 and send to table with the duck. Time to 
 braise, three-quarters to one hour. Probable cost, 
 33. 6d. to 4s. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 DUCK (H la Mode). 
 
 Take a couple of ducks, divide them into 
 quarters, and lay them in a stewpan with a 
 
DUG 
 
 185 
 
 DUG 
 
 flprinkling of flour, pepper, and salt. Put a 
 large lump of butter divided into pieces at the 
 bottom of the stewpan, and fry the ducks until 
 they are a nice light brown colour. Remove the 
 frying fat, and pour in half a, pint of gravy, 
 and a glass of port ; sprinkle more flour and add 
 a bunch of sweet herbs, two or three shallots 
 minced fine, an anchovy, and a little cayenne. 
 When the ducks have been stewing in the gravy 
 for about twenty minutes, if the stewpan has 
 been tightly closed, they will be found done 
 enough. Put the ducks on a dish, take out the 
 herbs, clear off any fat, and serve with the sauce 
 poured over them. Probable cost, 7s. 6d. per 
 couple. Sufficient, a couple of ducks for six or 
 seven persons. 
 
 DUCK (i la Portugaise). 
 
 Take a large plump duck, draw and glean it, 
 joint it neatly and put it in a stewpan ; sprinkle 
 with salt, place the pieces of wings, legs, and 
 breast on top, spread on each a small piece of 
 butter, close tightly, and put the pan in a hot 
 oven or over the closed stove for ten minutes. 
 Take out the pieces of duck, and put the carcase 
 in the stewpan with a pint of brown stock and a 
 bunch of herbs (bouquet garni), and stew for 
 half an hour, then add half a pint of Espagnole 
 Bauce, half a pint of tomato sauce, and a glass 
 of sherry. Reduce a little. Slice four small toma- 
 toes rather thickly, and fry them a little in 
 butter. Cut three slices of ox tongue into 
 narrow strips, and slice one truffle. Rub the 
 sauce through a tammy cloth ; put the pieces of 
 duck in a stewpan with the sauce, truffle, and 
 six or eight mushroom heads, and stew gently for 
 about half an hour. Toss the strips of tongue 
 in a little butter over a quick fire, just long 
 enough to warm through. Season the stew with 
 a pinch of pepper and one of nutmeg. Dish up 
 on a pyramid of mashed potatoes, garnish round 
 with the tomatoes, tongue, ana mushrooms, 
 sauce over with the liquor, and serve very hot. 
 Probable cost, 7s. 
 DUCK, BOILED. 
 
 " A duck boiled is a duck spoiled " is an old 
 proverb, but had the originator lived in the 
 north of Wales it never would have been 
 uttered. There they boil ducks often and well, 
 but they salt them first, and serve them 
 smothered with onion sauce. Time to simmer 
 gently, thirty to forty minutes. Probable cost, 
 38. to 4s. Sufficient for four or more persons. 
 
 DUCK, BRAISED, WITH GREEN PEA'S. 
 
 Prepare and cook as for turnips (see the fol- 
 lowing recipe), using green peas instead of the 
 ■small slices of turnips. Pry two onions in 
 butter till they are of a pale brown, and boil 
 them to a thick sauce, with some of the gravy 
 from the duck. Season with salt and pepper, 
 and serve with the peas laid under the duck and 
 the gravy poured over. Time, one hour for 
 duck; peas, half an hour. Probable cost, 3s. to 
 4s. Use one quart of peas. 
 
 DUCK, BRAISED, WITH TURNIPS. 
 
 Prepare a duck as if for roasting. Line a 
 small pan just large enough for the duck, w'th 
 slices of bacon. Strew over the bottom a little 
 parsley, chives, thyme, and lemon-peel. Lay 
 in the duck, and add_5 carrot cut into strips, an 
 
 onion stuck with three cloves, season with pep* 
 per, and cover with stock broth and a glass of 
 white wine. Turn occasionally, and simmer an 
 hour, or till done. Fry some slices of turnip in 
 butter to a light brown, drain and add them to 
 the stewpan, after removing the duck, which 
 should be kept hot. When the turnips are 
 tender remove them and strain the gravy, thick- 
 ening if necessary with a little flour. Put the 
 duck on a dish, pour the hot gravy over it, 
 and garnish with the turnips. Fry the. turnips 
 eight or ten minutes. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 DUCK, DEVILLED (4 la Fran^aise). 
 
 Divide a duck down the middle, prick the flesh 
 all over with a skewer, and rub into it a mix- 
 ture of mustard, pepper, salt, and chutney sauce, 
 then broil or roast. Make a gravy of equal quan- 
 tities of rich stock, white wine, ketchup, and 
 lemon-pickle (two table-spoonfuls of each), add a 
 little sugar, warm all together, and serve hot 
 over the duck. Time, twenty to thirty minutes 
 to broil. 
 
 DUCK-GIBLET SOUP. 
 
 Of duck giblets three or four sets will be re- 
 quired, as they are small, and the feet are now 
 left attached to the bird when roasted. Scald 
 four sets, clean and cut them into pieces of an 
 inch in length. Put them into' a saucepan with 
 three quarts of water, a pound of gravy beef 
 (or if more convenient some stock may be added 
 after the giblets have been stewed), two onions, 
 a faggot of sweet herbs, and the rind of a very 
 small lemon. Simmer till the bones are loose 
 and the gizzard soft, then strain the broth, 
 season with salt, pepper, and cayenne, and put 
 the giblets into a tureen by the side of the fire. 
 Brown some thin slices of onion in butter, and 
 stir in some flour to thicken the soup ; pour the 
 broth into the stewpan with the thickening, and 
 stir for ten minutes or till it boils, then skim and 
 strain into the tureen, adding one or two glasses 
 of Madeira, a dessert-spoonful of ketchup, and 
 the juice of a small lemon. Time to stew the 
 giblets, three hours. Probable cost. Is. per 
 quart. Sufficient for ten persons. 
 DUCK, GRAVY FOR. 
 
 Boil the giblets (omitting the liver) in a pint 
 of water for an hour, adding to them a small 
 onion chopped, and salt and pepper to taste. 
 Strain, colour with a little browning, and stir 
 up with a tea-spoonful of soy, and the same 
 of mushroom ketchup. Or, good stock lightly 
 mixed with browned flour may be used instead 
 of water for boiling the giblets : and the addi- 
 tion of a little red wine will increase the rich- 
 ness of the gravy. 
 
 DUCK, GRAVY FOR (another way). 
 
 Take the necks and gizzards of two ducks, a 
 spoonful of port wine, half an anchovy, a blade 
 or two of mace, a slice of the end of a lemon, an 
 onion, and a little pepper ; add a pint of water, 
 and boil to half a pint ; strain through a sieve on 
 to a spoonful of browning made of burnt sugar, 
 and pour over the ducks. 
 
 DUCK, HASHED. vl 
 
 Divide a roast duck into joints, take off the 
 skin and lay them v/ith some good gravy in 
 a stewpan, add a little mixed spice, a glass o£ 
 
DUG 
 
 186 
 
 DUG 
 
 port, and a seasoning of salt and cayenne, skim 
 off all fat, and when thoroughly hot thicken 
 with butter and flour, and strain and serve the 
 duck on a dish, the gravy round it, and with a 
 garnish of bread sippets; or cut up the duck 
 and boil the trimmings, adding a sliced onion 
 previously fried in butter to one pint of stock, 
 half a tea^spoonf ul of chopped lemon-peel, two of 
 lemon-juice, and half a glass of port wine. 
 Season with salt and pepper, and when it has 
 well boiled, skim, strain, thicken, and add it to 
 the duck. Stew, but do not boil. Serve as 
 before with sippets of bread as a garnish. Time, 
 fifteen to twenty minutes to stew. Suincient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 DUCK PIE. 
 
 Previous to putting the duck into the pie-dish, 
 boil it for about fifteen minutes, but first cut off 
 the neck and wings, which should be stewed for 
 a few minutes with the giblets in a stewpan con- 
 taining two ounces of good butter, a bunch of 
 herbs, an onion sliced, an anchovy, a blade of 
 mace, some salt, pepper, and cayenne to 
 taste. When the butter has dissolved, pour 
 in half a pint of boiling water, and stew 
 gently for a full hour; then strain and add the 
 mixture to the gravy from the duck. Cut up the 
 duck neatly, and arrange it in the pie-dish, add- 
 ing more seasoning if required; skim off all fat 
 from the gravy, which should be cold, and pour 
 it into the dish. Cover with a puff paste, or any 
 other crust liked. Time, one hour to bake. 
 Sufficient for four or more persons. 
 
 DUCK, ROAST. 
 
 This universal favourite requires no praise. 
 Without entering into the question of the best 
 duck, we say at once, take a young farm-yard 
 duck fattened at liberty, but cleansed by being 
 shut up two or three days and fed on barloy- 
 meal and water. Two small young ducks make 
 a better dish than a, large, handsome, hard- 
 fleshed drake, which, as a rule, is best fit for a 
 stew, or to be cooked en hraise (see Duck, 
 Bbaised). If the poulterer docs not prepare the 
 duck, it must be plucked, singed, and emptied ; 
 the feet scalded, skinned, and twisted round on 
 the back of the bird; head, neck, and pinions 
 cut off, the latter at the first joint, and all 
 skewered firmly to give the breast a nice plump 
 appearance. For the stuffing, take half a pound 
 of onions, a tea-spoonfiil of powdered sage, three 
 taMe-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs, the duck's 
 liver parboiled and minced with pepper, salt, 
 and cayenne. Cut the onions very fine, throw 
 boiling water over them, and cover for ten 
 minutes; drain through a gravy strainer, and 
 add the bread-crumbs, minced liver, sage, pep- 
 per and salt to taste ; mix, and put it inside the 
 duck. This quantity is for one duck; more 
 onion and sage may be added, but we recom- 
 mend the above as a delicate compound not 
 likely to disagree with the stomach. Let the 
 duck be hung a day or two, according to the 
 weather, to make the flesh tender. Boast be- 
 fore a brisk clear fire, baste often, and dredge 
 with flour to make the bird look frothy. Serve 
 with a good brown gravy in the dish, and apple 
 sauce in a tureen. Time : ducks, three-quarters 
 of an hour to an hour ; ducklings, twenty-five 
 to thirty-five minutes. Probable cost, 3s. to 4s. 
 
 each. SufScient, two ducks for seven or eight 
 persons. 
 
 DUCK, ROAST, TO CARVE. 
 
 A young duckling should be carved in the 
 sjune way as a fowl, the leg and wing being 
 taken off, first of all, on either side (see Fowl, 
 Roast, To Cabve). A full-sized bird should be 
 
 CARVING EOAST DUCK. 
 
 carved like a goose. First cut slices from the 
 breast, in the direction indicated in the picture 
 by the position of the knife. The first slices 
 are to be cut close to the wing; then proceed 
 upwards towards the breast-bone. The legs 
 and wings may afterwards be attacked. An 
 opening is to be made at x to get at the stuffing. 
 
 DUCK, SALMI OF. 
 
 Take the giblets of a duck, stew them gently 
 in veal-gravy, seasoned with cayenne, three 
 finely-shredded shallots, and some pepper and 
 salt. Roast the duck, cut it up, and lay it in a 
 stewpan with the gravy. Simmer till quite hot, 
 then squeeze a bitter orange into the sauce, 
 strain it over the duck, and send to table hot. 
 More seasoning may be added for the English 
 palate. Salmis are great favourites with French 
 epicures ; they are a species of moist devil, suf- 
 ficiently piquant, as a rule, to please a T'rench- 
 mau's taste. Time : twenty minutes to roast ; 
 twenty minutes to stew. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 DUCK, STEWED, WITH GREEN PEAS. 
 
 Cut off the rind from half a pound of rather 
 lean bacon. Divide it into pieces of about two 
 inches each way, and fry to a light brown with 
 butter. Dredge in a little flour, and after stir- 
 ring about three minutes, add a pint of broth, an 
 onion stuck with two cloves, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, salt, and pepper. The duck should be 
 previously fried or roasted for ten minutes to 
 make it a good colour, then put into the stew- 
 pan with the gravy and stewed slowly for an 
 hour and a quarter, or till tender. Meanwhile 
 stew a quart of peas with butter (see Peas, 
 Geeen, Fbench Mode op Cooking). Place the 
 duck and peas on a hot dish, pour over them 
 the gravy strained and thickened, and serve hot. 
 
 DUCK, STUFFED. 
 
 Bone a duck carefully, without breaking the 
 skin. Boil the bones in a small quantity of 
 water, and use the liquor for the gravy. Make 
 a rich stuffing with half a pound of veal, half a 
 pound of good suet, some parsley, chives, and 
 mushrooms. Season with salt and pepper, and 
 make all into a paste with two well-beaten eggs 
 aUd a little cream. Fill the inside of the duck, 
 c(Jok it en hraise (see Duck, Braised), and serve 
 with a ragout of chestnuts prepared with the 
 
DUG 
 
 187 
 
 DUM 
 
 grav^ from the bones. Time, about pn hour. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons, (jb'ee also Duck, 
 Roast.) 
 
 duck, wild, hashed. 
 
 Carve the duck neatly as helped at table, put 
 the joints into a stewpan vfith a pint of good 
 brovrn gravy, add . a table-spoonful of Seville 
 orange-juice or lemon pickle, a glass of claret, 
 mixed spice, salt, and cayenne to^ taste, and 
 thicken with bread-crumbs. Let it get gradu- 
 ally hot, and when on the point of boiling, serve 
 with sippets of toast as a garnish. Any cold 
 wild fowl may be hashed as above, but for 
 pheasants and partridges use white wine instead 
 of claret. Time, from fifteen to twenty minutes. 
 
 DUCK, WILD, RAGOUT OF. 
 
 Cut the remains of cold wild duck into neat 
 pieces, and lay them in a stewpan with the 
 gravy that was left. Simmer slowly over the 
 fire for fifteen minutes, then dish up, and gar- 
 nish with small croutons. The juice of an 
 orange in the gravy is an improvement. Prob- 
 able cost, 2s. 6d. 
 
 DUCK, WILD, ROAST. 
 
 The essentials to be observed in roasting wild 
 duck are, first, to keep the gravy well in the 
 breast of- the bird, and, next, not to lose the 
 flavour through over-dressing. Pluck and draw 
 carefully, wipe out the inside with a clean cloth, 
 cut off the head and neck, and scald the feet, 
 which are either to be rested on each side of the 
 breast or trussed like those of a fowl. Put the 
 duck before a brisk fire for five minutes to 
 brown the outside and protect the gravy, then 
 baste plentifully with butter till done. ■ Dredge 
 with .fiour to give it a nice frothy appearance, 
 and serve vfim a gravy in the dish, or in a 
 tureen, if preferred. Make a gravy as follows. 
 Boil down the necks and gizzards in a pint of 
 water till reduced to half a pint, or take half a 
 pint of veal gravy, add to it a slice off the end 
 of a lemon , or orange, an onion, three or four 
 leaves of basil, » blade of mace, and a little 
 pepper and salt; boil all together, strain, and 
 add a glassful of port wine and the juice of a 
 Seville orange or lemon. Serve hot. Time to 
 roast, twenty to twenty-five minutes. Probable 
 cost, ia. to 5s. the couple. Allow two for a dish. 
 
 DUCK, WILD, WITH PORT WINE. 
 
 Take a, freshly-killed wild duck. ■ Truss it, 
 and cover it with a strip of fat'pork and a sheet 
 of paper. Cook in a brisk oven for twenty 
 minutes. Garnish with watercress and potato 
 chips, and send to table with a port wine sauce 
 made as follows. Fry an onion in butter with a 
 bouquet garni, moisten with one pint of stock 
 reduced to a demi-glaoe, boil and skim; strain, 
 add a tea-spoonful of redrcurrant jelly, and. a 
 glass of port wine, and boil up. Probable 
 cost, 4s. 6d. 
 
 DUCK, WITH OLIVES. 
 
 This is a simple dish; but much liked in 
 Provence. Cook a duck en. hraise (see Duck, 
 Beaisbd). PrepariB the gravy in the usual way, 
 adding plenty of mushrooms after the gravy has 
 been strained. Soak some olives for three hours, 
 remove the stones, put them into the gravy and 
 boil up quickly. Then put in the duck and 
 
 simmer twenty minutes. Serve on a hot dish, 
 with the sauce poured over. Time to braise and 
 stew, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 DUCKLING, BRAISED (k la Bourgogne). 
 
 Clean and truss the duckling. Fill it with a 
 stuffing of mashed potatoes rubbed through a 
 sieve, mixed with egg-yolk and powdered herbs, 
 and well-seasoned with pepper. Line a pan with 
 three or four slices of bacon, place on this a 
 sliced carrot and six small button onions previ- 
 ously browned in a little butter over a hot fire. 
 Add two thin slices of lemon and lay the duck- 
 ling on top. Moisten with a glass of Burgundy, 
 and put the pan into a hot oven for ten minutes 
 to allow the duckling to get brov/ned. Take the 
 pan out, add a little more wine, and braise over 
 the fire or in the oven until quite done. About 
 ten minutes before it is done add a gill of 
 brown sauce. Place the duckling on a hot dish, 
 surrounded with the small oniofis. Boilup the 
 sauce in the pan, strain it and remove the fat ; 
 season, reduce it to a proper consistency, pour 
 some over the bird, and send the remainder to 
 table in a sauce-boat. Probable cost^ 5s. 
 
 DUCKLINGS, ROASTED. 
 
 Make a stuffing thus. Boil four middle-sized 
 onions ten or twelve minutes, and chop them, 
 very fine ; add a t^ble-spoonful of bread-crumbs, 
 equal quantities of powdfered sage, pepper, and 
 flour of mustard^half a salt-spoonful of each — a 
 tea-spoonful of brandy, and an ounce or more of 
 dissolved butter, with salt to taste; or if pre- 
 ferred the following stuffing may be used. Two 
 ounces of bread-crumbs, the Same of butter, a 
 little chopped parsley, two leaves of sage pow- 
 dered, a small bit of lemon-peel, three shallots, 
 with pepper and salt. Boast the ducks before a 
 quick fire, give them a steady basting for about 
 half an hour, then serve with the gravy which 
 has dripped from them, to wbich add a good 
 squeeze of lemon-juice, a tea-spoonfiil of soy, a 
 little cayenne, or any sauce preferred, and stock 
 if required : thicken and send to table in a 
 tureen. 
 
 DUMPLING DROPS. 
 
 Take one pound and a half of the best flour, 
 make a hole in the middle, into which put a 
 quarter of an ounce of fresh German yeast, with 
 a quarter of a pint of warm water or milk, mix 
 it into a thin batter, scatter a little flour lightly 
 over the top, and leave it by the side of the fire 
 to rise. When well risen make it into a dough, 
 with a little more warm milk, to which' add two 
 well-beaten eggs and a little salt. Let it rise 
 for an hour, form it into light balls, and drop 
 them one by one into fast-boiling water. When 
 done, drain them an instant, but send to table 
 quickly with gravy, or sugar and butter, or with 
 melted butter, sweetened and flavoured with 
 lemon-juice. Time, twenty minutes to boil. 
 Probable cost, about 8d. 
 
 DUMPLINGS, HALF-HOUR. 
 
 Shred very finely half a pound of beef suet, 
 and prepare the same weight of bread-crumbs, 
 with the addition of one table-spoonful of flour, 
 three ounces of currants, two ounces of sugar, a 
 little lemon-peel and grated nutmeg, moistened 
 by three well-beaten eggs. Ebll the dough 
 
DUM 
 
 188 
 
 DUT 
 
 into balls, tie them separately in small clothsj 
 and boil very quickly. Serve with melted but- 
 ter, s^yeetened, poured over them. Time, half 
 an hour to boil. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient 
 for eight or ten dumplings. 
 
 OUMPLINGS, NORFOLK. 
 
 Warm half a pint of milk, cream half an ounce 
 of German yeast with a tea-spoonful of castor 
 sugar, and mix the milk very smoothly with 
 it. Take one pound of flour and mix with it 
 a pinch of salt; hollow out the centre, pour in 
 the warm milk, etc., and knead it up to a light 
 dough. Leave it to rise for an hour; knead 
 again, and leave it for another hour, then 
 ■divide it into five or six dumplings. Have ready 
 a saucepan of fast-boiling water, drop in tne 
 dumplings, and boil for half an hour ; then dish 
 them, and serve at once. These are usually 
 served with boiled beef. Probable cost, 8d. 
 
 DUMPLINGS, PLAIN. 
 
 Take one pound of light dough, made as for 
 Iread, and roll it into small round balls, as 
 large as an egg. Drop them into a saucepan of 
 fast-boiling water, first fiattening them with the 
 liand. Care should be taken to keep the water 
 boiling, and to serve quickly when done, or they 
 will be heavy. If the dough be mixed with milk, 
 instead of water, the dumplings will be more 
 delicate. They may be sent to table as an ac- 
 icompaniment to meat, or eaten with a sweet 
 sauce. Time, twenty minutes to boil. Prob- 
 able cost, 2d. per pound. Sufficient for twelve 
 dumplings. 
 
 DUMPLINGS, STEAMED. 
 
 Get the ordinary dough at the baker's, and 
 instead of boiling, steam over a saucepan of 
 l)oiling water. The dumplings will take longer 
 to steam than to boil, but they will present a 
 Taetter appearance than boiled ones, being smooth 
 and dry on the outside. There is, besides, the 
 saving of an extra saucepan, for any article of 
 food requiring fast boiling may be cooked 
 underneath the steamed dumplings. Care must 
 "be taken that the water does not stop boiling 
 until they are done, and that they are served 
 quickly. Meat gravy, or melted butter as a 
 sauce. Time, half an hour to steam. 
 
 DUNDEE CAKE. 
 
 Beat half a pound of butter and half a pound 
 ^f sugar to a cream; have three quarters of a 
 jjound of sultanas cleaned and picked; sift 
 one pound of flour and one and a half tea- 
 spoonfuls of baking powder together on to a 
 paper ; beat five eggs into the butter and sugar, 
 one at a time; then add the sultanas and a 
 quarter of a pound of candied peel finely 
 chopped. Beat the flour in gradually, adding 
 a little milk if necessary; pour into a cake-tin 
 lined with greased paper, and bake for two 
 liours in a steady oven. Probable cost. Is. lOd. 
 
 DUTCH APPLE PIE. 
 
 Pare, core, and slice three pounds of apples, 
 and wash and dry half a pound of currants ; lay 
 ipart of the apples in a dish, and strew over them 
 the currants, some sugar, and the grated rind 
 of a lemon. Take off the white part of the 
 lemon, cut the pulp into thin slices, and spread 
 them on the currants, add sugar and plenty of 
 
 candied orange- and citron-peel sliced, and fill 
 up with the remainder of the apples. Cover 
 with a light paste and bake in a rather quick 
 oven for an hour or more. Probable cost. 
 Is. 6d. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. 
 
 DUTCH CREAM. 
 
 Separate the whites from the yolks of three 
 eggs, beat up the latter, and pour them gradu- 
 ally into a. pint of new milk. Set the milk in 
 an enamelled saucepan, and add to it a pint of 
 cream, five ounces of loaf sugar, and one-eighth 
 of an ounce of vanilla cut small. Stir the mix- 
 ture over a slow fire for about ten minutes, and 
 when thick enough, pour it through a coarse 
 strainer. It must not boil. Sufficient for one 
 quart or more. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. 
 
 DUTCH CUSTARD. 
 
 Break six eggs into a basin, add three ounces 
 of fine sugar, and whisk thoroughly. Line a 
 pie-dish with puff paste, or if preferred, only 
 put a border round tiie edge. Mix a pint and a 
 half of freshly-picked raspberries with three 
 ounces of sugar, add it to the eggs, and pour 
 the mixture into the pie-dish. Bake in a moder- 
 ate oven. Time, thirty to thirty-five minutes. 
 Probable cost. Is. 9d. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 DUTCH FLUMMERY. 
 
 Pare the rind of a lemon very thin, and infuse 
 it in a pint of water with half a pound of sugar. 
 Set it on the fire until the sugar is dissolved, 
 and the syrup well flavoured. Add two ounces 
 of isinglass and stir till this also is melted, 
 then throw in the strained juice of four lemons, 
 a tumblerful of wine, and the yolks of eight 
 eggs. Strain the mixture, put it into a jug, 
 set the jug in a saucepan of boiling water, and 
 stir until the flummery thickens. Take it out 
 of the water, allow it to cool, and then pour 
 it into moulds. A wine-glassful of brandy may 
 be added to the syrup, but in that case just so 
 much less water will be required. Probable 
 cost, exclusive of wine or brandy, 3s. Time, 
 three or four minutes. Sufficient for a, quart 
 mould. 
 
 DUTCH LOAF. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of butter, half a 
 pound of sugar, one pound of dried currants, 
 two table-spoonfuls of cinnamon, a pint of 
 sponge, and as much flour as will form a dough. 
 Make a sponge the evening before you wish to 
 bake a cake, of a tea-cupful and a half of milk, 
 and as much flour stirred into it as will form a 
 thick batter, with a little salt, and one gill of 
 good yeast. In the morning this sponge should 
 be light. Then beat the butter and sugar to- 
 gether, add the cinnamon, currants, and sponge, 
 and flour enough to form a dough. Butter a 
 pan, and when the mixture is light, bake it in 
 an oven about as hot as for bread. 
 
 DUTCH SAUCE. 
 
 Put four ounces of butter, three well-beaten 
 yolks of eggs, a tea-spoonful of flour, and a 
 dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice or vinegar into 
 an earthenware pipkin, or stir it very gently 
 over the fire in a bain-marie. As the butter 
 melts, stir constantly, and take care it does not 
 curdle, which it will do if it is allowed to boil. 
 
DUT 
 
 189 
 
 EEL 
 
 A few drops of vinegar may be added just be- 
 fore serving if thought necessary. This sauce 
 has a pleasant sour flavour. ' It is specially 
 adapted for asparagus, cauliflower, sea-kale, 
 artichokes, boiled fish, meat, or poultry; in fact, 
 anything requiring a delicate sharp sauce. The 
 leaves picked from a bunch of parsley pounded 
 in a mortar to extract the juice, simmered for a 
 few minutes and added to half a pint of be- 
 chamel sauce, with a little salt, cayenne, and 
 the juice of half a lemon stirred in just before 
 serving, make what is called " Green Dutch 
 Sauce." Simmer till thick. Probable cost, 8d. 
 
 DUTCH SAUCE FOR FISH. 
 
 Blend together two ounces of butter and a 
 small tea-spoonful of flour, put it into a stew- 
 pan with equal quantities of water and tarragon 
 vinegar (two table-spoonfuls of each), stir for a 
 minute, and add the beaten yolks of two eggs, 
 keeping up the stirring until the mixture 
 thickens. It must not boil, and when ready to 
 serve pour into it half the juice of a lemon. 
 Make this sauce in a gallipot, placed in a sauce- 
 pan of boiling water. 
 
 DUTCH SAUCE, GREEN. 
 
 {See Dutch Sauce.) 
 
 EASTWELL BISCUITS. 
 
 Mix one pound of flour with a pinch of salt. 
 Bub in eight ounces of butter, and add eight 
 ounces of sugar, a little grated ginger, and 
 three eggs, to make a soft paste. Let this rest 
 for an hour. Koll it thinly and stamp it into 
 small shapes. Bake in a moderate oven. Be- 
 fore baking brush the shapes over with egg and 
 sprinkle washed and dried currants or chopped 
 almonds on the top. 
 
 EAU SUCREE. 
 
 This is a very general beverage in France, 
 made without rule as to quantity. A little 
 sugar and some boiling water are the only in- 
 gredients. It is considered soporific, and for 
 this reason is much drunk at supper-time. 
 
 Eclairs. 
 
 Beat up and strain three eggs. Put one 
 ounce of sugar, three ounces of butter, and a 
 quarter of a pint of water into a small lined 
 saucepan, and heat them until the butter is 
 melted; then sift in three ounces of flour, stir- 
 ring well, and cook again for five or six min- 
 utes, stirring all the time, until the mixture 
 forms rather a stiff paste. Great care must be 
 taken that it does not burn. Take it off the 
 fire and mix the beaten eggs with it. Divide it 
 into pieces one inch wide, four inches long, and 
 three and a half inches thick; lay them in a 
 baking-tin and bake them in rather a quick 
 oven until they are of a pale golden colour, and 
 have risen greatly. Then spread a thin coating 
 of chocolate icing on each, and put back in a 
 very cool oven for a few minutes until the 
 icing is set. Whip a quarter of a pint of cream 
 to a very stiff froth ; open each eclair at the 
 side, put in a spoonful of whipped cream, and 
 close again. Serve cold. Probable coat. Is. 6d. 
 for twelve. 
 
 EDGINGS TO DISHES. 
 
 Of these there is a great variety. We give 
 such as are in general use for made dishes; for 
 instance, rice, mashed potato, all kinds of 
 pastry edgings, peeled new round potatoes, 
 sippets of fried bread, hard-boiled eggs, small 
 cucumbers, tomatoes, sliced beetroot, and 
 lemon, with the white of egg beaten to a froth 
 and dropped on each slice of lemon, and then 
 powdered over with cayenne pepper. Then, 
 for sweet dishes, there is an almost endless 
 variety, but the most elegant are preserved 
 fruits and cream beaten to a froth, and coloured 
 either green or red. It would be impossible to 
 give a recipe for every kind of garniture, nor 
 is it necessary. A good cook will use her owa 
 judgment and taste, but perhaps for the inex- 
 perienced it would be wise to say what edgings 
 best suit certain dishes ; for instance, hashes of 
 all kinds may be garnished with sippets of fried 
 bread cut into fanciful shapes, mashed pota- 
 toes, and even rice, though the latter is more 
 generally used for curries. Mushrooms are a 
 most appropriate edging to stewed beef, and 
 hard boiled eggs for calf's head en tortue, or 
 stewed soles ; beetroot and parsley are excellent 
 as a garnish for cold meat, and thin strips of 
 beetroot laid crosswise on the breast of a boiled 
 fowl give an excellent finish. 
 
 EEL BROTH. 
 
 Take one pound of eels, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, some parsley, one onion, a few pepper- 
 corns, cloves, and salt and pepper to taste. 
 Clean and skin the fish, cut them into small 
 pieces, and put them into a stewpan with the 
 other ingredients, and six pints of water. Sim- 
 mer till the liquid is reduced one-half, remove 
 the scum as it rises, and strain all through a. 
 sieve. When tlie broth is cold and wanted for 
 use, take off the fat and warm only what is re- 
 quired. Sippets of toasted bread should be 
 served at the same time. Probable cost. Is. 2d. 
 Sufficient to make three pints of broth. 
 
 EEL PATTIES. 
 
 Skin and wash some middle-sized eels, and 
 after having cut them into pieces of an inch 
 long, soak in salt and water for an hour. 
 When drained, put them into a stewpan with 
 just enough hot water to cover them; add salt, 
 pepper, a blade of mace, a little lemon-peel, 
 and a sprig of parsley. When the fish will 
 separate from the bone, which will be the case 
 after eight or ten minutes* gentle stewing, 
 divide each piece into two, and put them aside 
 until the broth has stewed a little longer ; then 
 remove the lemon-peel, mace, etc. Thicken 
 with butter and a little flour, flavour with 
 lemon-juice or vinegar, and return the pieces 
 of eel to the broth. Make patties as directed 
 for mutton patties {see Mutton Patties). 
 Time, a quarter of an hour to bake the crust. 
 
 EEL PIE. 
 
 Having skinned and cleansed two pounds of 
 large-sized eels, divide them into pieces of two 
 or three inches in length. Cut off the heads, 
 tails, and fins, and boil them with a little lemon- 
 peel, a shallot, a blade of mace, and as much 
 of veal or mutton broth as will cover the eels 
 in the pie-dish. Thicken with butter and flour. 
 
EEL 
 
 190 
 
 EEL 
 
 and add tlie juice of half a lemon. When 
 strained and cool, pour the broth into the pie- 
 dish over the eels, sprinkle them with pepper, 
 salt, and chopped parsley, and cover with puff 
 paste. Bake in a m.oderately brisk oven about 
 one hour and a quarter ; or the eels may be 
 •stewed first for half an iour and then finished in 
 the pie. Probable cost, 6d. to Is. per pound. 
 
 £EL PIE (another way). 
 
 Take eels that weigh not less than half a 
 pound when skinned. - Put the heads, tails, and 
 ins into a stewpan with some good veal broth, 
 an onion, a blade of mace, a bit of lemon-peel, 
 pepper, and salt. Cut the fish into pieces of 
 three inches in length, and after soaking them 
 in salt and water, rinse, drain, and lay them in 
 a pie-dish with a seasoning of pepper and salt 
 between each layer. When the broth is well 
 flavoured, skim, and strain it into a basin to get 
 cold, then pour it over the eels, and bake with 
 an edging and cover of paste in a brisk oven. 
 Warm a little gravy together with two table- 
 ■spoonfuls of cream, and pour it through a paper 
 funnel into the pie as soon as it comes from the 
 oven. Time, one hour to bake. Probable cost, 
 6d. to Is. per pqund. Two pounds sufficient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 EEL PIE WITH TENCH. 
 
 Skin two eels, and bone them, and clean and 
 fcone two teneh. Cut the eels into two-inch 
 pieces, but the tench leave whole. Put water 
 to the bones and trimmings, and stew them for 
 one hour. Strain this liquor, take off the fat, 
 Iboil with two onions, four blades of mace, three 
 anchovies, pepper, salt, and a bunch of herbs, 
 and it will be ready for the pie. Lay the eels 
 and the tench into a dish, with a few liard- 
 l)oiled eggs and chopped parsley, in layers, and 
 pour in as much of the liquor as is required. 
 Cover with puff paste, and bake in a rather 
 quick oven. More liquor may be added after 
 the pie is done. Time, about thirty-five min- 
 utes to bake. Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 EEL SOUP. 
 
 Soak three pounds of middle-sized eels in 
 salt and water. Cut off the heads, bone, and 
 slice them thinly. Simmer them in a stewpan, 
 ■with three ounces of good butter. Allow them 
 ten minutes,' and then add two quarts of water, 
 an onioh'sliced,' a bunch of sweet herbs, three 
 Hades of mace^ some peppercorns, salt to taste, 
 and a small roll. Simine'r till the eels are 
 tender, then remove them, and strain the 
 liquid. Make a smooth batter. with two table- 
 spoonfuls of flour and a quarter of a pint of 
 cream ; put this and the liquid together, and 
 Ijoil up, to pour pver the sliced eels in the 
 tureen. A piece of toasted bread cut into dice 
 may be sent up with it. Time, one hour or 
 more. Probable cost. Is. per quart. Sufficient 
 for eight persons. 
 
 EEL SOUP, BROWN. 
 
 Fry three pounds of eels, after rolling them 
 in flour, bread-crUmbs, or batter. Open, take 
 out the bones, and set them aside. Fry 
 choppfed diiions brown in butter, browning after- 
 wards enough flour to thicken the soup without 
 cgg-yolks. Stir in gradually either water or 
 stock; during the process season as for Eel Soup, 
 
 AVhite (see Eel Soup, White). Put in the eels, 
 and, if you will, add at the same time a glass of 
 white wine. After one boil up, serve, accom- 
 panied by bread dice toasted or fried. Similar 
 soups can be made with other firm-fleshed, 
 middle-sized fish, as small conger, soles, etc. 
 By the same treatment cold remnants of fish, 
 of various kinds, both boiled and fried, may be 
 economised by appearing in novel and palatable 
 forms of soup. They can be enriched by any 
 lobster, oyster, or anchovy sauce that is left. 
 If you happen to have a few shrimps, pick a 
 handful; boil their shells; with a little of the 
 liquor give a slight flavour of shrimps to the 
 soup, at the same time that you throw in the 
 meat of the shrimps. The;o soups bear a dust 
 of cayenne and sugar, and should be accom- 
 panied by bread or rolls. 
 
 EEL SOUP, WHITE. 
 
 Set a saucepan of water on the fire ; season 
 with salt, whole pepper,: a blade of mace, a 
 strip of lemon-peel, and a bunch of the most 
 fragrant sweet herbs at command. When it 
 boils, throw in the eels. As soon as they are 
 done enough (and they are spoiled if done too 
 much) — just enough to let,, the flesh come away 
 from the bone — take theih out, split them in 
 two, and remove the bone. Each length of eel 
 will thus make two pieces, which should be left 
 entire. Set them aside. Chop finely three or four 
 white onions. Roll a lump of butter in flour; 
 put it into a stewpan with the onions ; moisten 
 gradually with a little of the eel broth. When 
 the onions are tender, add ih". rest of the liquor 
 (removing the herbs and the lemon-peel), stir- 
 ring it in graduallyi with a tea-cupful of fresh 
 milk. Throw in the eel. meats, and set the 
 soup aside until they are hot through. While 
 they are so heating, you may further thicken 
 with a couple of' egg-yolks well worked into a 
 little of the liquor. Taste ' if it is sufficiently 
 seasoned. Tou will find an almost impercep- 
 tible dust of sugar an improvement. In fact, 
 most white soupSj even when seasoned with salt, 
 are the better for a sprinkling with sugar. 
 
 EELS (a la Roulette). 
 
 When the eel has been skinned and cleaned, 
 cut it into pieces, and roll the pieces first in 
 melted butter, and then in flour. Put the 
 portions of fish into a stewpan with equal quan- 
 tities of white wine and water; add a bunch of 
 herbs, some mushrooms, pepper, and salt, and 
 stew till done;-then remove the fish, and thicken 
 the gravy with flour, butter, and egg. After 
 skimming off the fat from the surface, serve 
 quickly, and add a, squeeze of lemon-juice, and 
 a little vinegar. Time to stew, three-quarters 
 of an hour. Probable cost, 6d. to Is. per pound. 
 EELS (i la Tartare). 
 
 Skin and cleanse two or three eels, cut them 
 into pieces of two inches, and let these lie 
 half an hour in salt and water. Take equal 
 quantities of red wine and stock broth (a gill of 
 each); simmer the pieces of eel in this until 
 nearljr done. When cool dip each section separ- 
 ately into oiled butter or beaten egg, cover with 
 bread-crumbs, and broil or fry till all are nicely 
 browned. Serve with tartar sauce on the dish 
 (see Tartar Sauce). Bread crusts browned in 
 the oven, and then pounded fine, make tlie best 
 
EEL 
 
 191 
 
 EEL 
 
 crumbs for eela. Time, twenty-five minutes to 
 simmer ; to fry, five minutes. Sufiicient, two 
 pounds, for five or six persons. 
 
 EELS, BAKED. 
 
 Take a large eel that has been skinned and 
 well cleansed. Fill it with a forcemeat com- 
 posed of the following ingredients ; three table- 
 spoonfuls of bread-crumbs, and the same quan- 
 tity of shelled shrimps, a little pounded mace, 
 pepper, salt, and two ounces of butter, pounded 
 to a paste, with the beaten yolk of an egg. 
 When stuffed, put the eel into a round baking- 
 dish with water and sherry, the quantity of the 
 former being twice as much as that of the 
 latter, add two or three ounces of butter, and 
 bake. When ready to serve, skim and strain 
 the gravy, and pour it over the fish. Garnish 
 with slices of lemon. Time, three-quarters of 
 an hour to bake. Probable cost, 6d. to Is. per 
 pound. Sufficient for two or more persona. 
 
 EELS, BOILED. 
 
 Soak three or four small eels in strong salt 
 and water for an hour. Drain them, and put 
 them into a stewpan. With just the quantity of 
 water requisite to cover the fish. Add a bunch 
 of parsley, and let the eels simmer about half an 
 hour. Serve in a shallow dish, with melted 
 butter sharpened with plenty of lemon-juice. 
 Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 EELS, BOILED (another way). 
 
 With a sharp knife cut the heads off two 
 pounds of eels, skim and clean the fish, and cut 
 them into four-inch lengths. Put them into a 
 stewpan with enough cold water to cover them, 
 bring to the boil and* stew gently for twenty 
 minutes. Strain off into a fresh saucepan about 
 three quarters of a pint of the liquor in which 
 they were soaked, and stir into this a table- 
 spoonful of flour mixed smoothly with a quarter 
 of a pint of thick cream; add a dessert- 
 spoonful of minced parsley and a seasoning 
 of peppes and Salt, and siintner all gently till 
 the sauce is nicely thickened. Put in a small 
 pinch of cayenne and half an ounce of butter, 
 and stir till this is melted. Drain the eels, 
 arrange on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and 
 serve at once. Probable cost, 6d. to Is. per 
 pound. 
 
 EELS, BOILED, FOR CONVALESCENTS (Invalid 
 cookery). 
 
 When the skin has been drawn off the eel, 
 place it before a clear fire, or on a gridiron over 
 a fire, to rid it of the oily matter. When it has 
 parted with'thefaf( which will be in about ten 
 minutes), scrape and wasTi it in warm water, 
 and then put it into a saucepan with more hot 
 water — about one quart — -add a bunch of pars- 
 ley, and a small quantity of salt, and simmer 
 till done. Serve with'a little of the broth in the 
 dish, to which some minced parsley has been 
 added. It should be simmered for twenty min- 
 utes. Probable cost, 6d. to Is. per pound. 
 
 EELS, BROILED. 
 
 Clean and skin two eels; if large ones, cut 
 them into pieces of three or four inches; if 
 small, they should be curled round, but first 
 sprinkled with a mixture of chopped parsley, 
 pepper, salt, and a little powdered sage, then 
 
 rubbed or dipped in yolk of egg, and strewn 
 with bread-crumbs. Broil over a clear fire till 
 lightly browned. Send to table melted butter 
 sharpened with lemon-juice. Time, twenty min- 
 utes. Probable cost, from 6d. to Is. per pound. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 EELS, COLLARED. 
 
 Take a large eel, out off the head and tail, and 
 remove the skin and backbone without tearing 
 the flesh. Spread it out flat on a board, and 
 cover it with a seasoning composed of the fol- 
 lowing ingredients : — A small bus.dh of herbs, 
 two leavies of sage minced very fine, two cloves. 
 
 COLLATED EELS. 
 
 two blades of mace, and a little allspice and 
 whole pepper well pounded, with salt to taste. 
 Roll up the eel, beginning with the broad end, 
 and bind it tightly with a tape. Boil down 
 the backbone, head) and tail with pepper, salt, 
 mace, and vinegar. Put the eel into this liquor 
 and stew about three-quarters of an hour, and 
 when tender set it aside. Boil up the liquor 
 with more vinegar and spice, if required, and 
 when cool add it to the fish. Probable cost; 
 6d. to Is. per pound. 
 
 EELS (en Matelote). 
 
 Cut up five or six very small onions, and 
 brown them with a little butt«r and flour in a 
 stewpan. When of a light brown, add about 
 half a pint of good broth and a wine-glassful of 
 port wine, a few mushrooms, a bay-leaf, salt, 
 pepper, and nutmeg to taste. Have ready two 
 pounds of eels, divided into lengths of three 
 inches, simmer these in this gravy till tender, 
 then remove them and place them high in 
 the centre of a dish. Thicken the sauce with 
 butter and flour, and serve it hot poured over 
 the fish. Time to stew the eels, half an hour. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 6d. for this quantity. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 
 EELS, ENTREE OF. 
 
 Take two large eels, bone them, and lay 
 them flat; put light forcemeat, well seasoned, 
 upon each ; roll them up separately, bind them 
 round with tape, put them into a stewpan with a 
 gill of sherry, a clove of garlic, half a bay-leaf, 
 four peeled shallots, a little thyme, and a pint 
 of veal broth. Let them stew till done, then 
 strain the lig^uor, skim it free from fat, season 
 to taste, thicken with flour and butter, and 
 reduce to half a pint. Put the eels into a deep 
 dish, glaze the tops, and serve up with the 
 sauce under them; placfe pieces of fried bread 
 round the dish. Probable cost, Ss. 6d. 
 EELS, FRICASSEED. 
 
 Cut up four pounds of skinned eels into pieces 
 four inches in length, put them into a stew- 
 pan with equal quantities of sherry wine and 
 
EEL 
 
 192 
 
 EEL 
 
 water, enough to cover them; add twenty oys- 
 ters, a bunch of herbs, an onion stuck with five 
 or six cloves, some parsley, pepper, salt, and 
 cayenne. 'When the eels have stewed one hour 
 remove them to a dish, strain the gravy, and put 
 it back into the stewpan with a quarter of a 
 pint of cream and some butter — about an ounce 
 — rolled in flour. When this gravy begins to 
 thicken pour it over the fish. Serve with horse- 
 radish as a garnish. Probable cost, 6d. to Is. 
 per pound. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. 
 
 EELS, FRIED. 
 
 After the eel has been skinned and cleansed, 
 cut it into neat pieces of four inches long, and 
 when quite dry, 'feeason them with salt and pep- 
 per, and dip each piece into the beaten yolk of 
 egg, cover it with bread-crumbs, and fry to a 
 nice brown in butter or lard. If the eels are 
 small they are usually curled round instead of 
 being cut into pieces. Garnish with fried pars- 
 ley, and serve on a napkin. Fry for about 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. to Is. per 
 pound. 
 
 EELS, FRIED (another way). 
 
 Take one pound and a half of eels, cut off 
 their heads, skin and clean the fish, and cut 
 them into four-inch lengths. Dry them in a soft 
 clean cloth. Mix together two ounces of flour, 
 half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and one tea-spoon- 
 ful of salt ] roll the pieces of eel in the mixture, 
 and put them into a frying basket. Fry in 
 boiling lard to a golden brown. Drain on blot- 
 ting paper, and serve on a hot napkin, gar- 
 nished with fried parsley. Probable cost. Is. 
 to Is. 6d. 
 EELS, MAYONNAISE OF. 
 
 Skin and empty an eel of about two pounds 
 and a half weight, and cut it into lengths of 
 two inches and a half. Throw the pieces into 
 salt and water, and, when thoroughly cleansed, 
 drain and dry them. Place them in neat layers, 
 with spice between each layer, in a potting- 
 dish. Pour a mixture of vinegar and water, 
 with a little dissolved isinglass in it over the 
 contents of the pot, and stew or bake in a 
 moderate oven till tender. When sent to table, 
 fill a dish with the pieces of eel, and pour over 
 them as much mayonnaise sauce as will cover 
 them; decorate according to taste, and sur- 
 round the dish with lumps of jelly taken from 
 the potting-dish. Time, about one hour to pot. 
 
 EELS, POTTED. 
 
 Cooked in this manner they are said to be 
 richer and better when unskinned. Choose 
 young eels, and cleanse them as follows. Hold 
 the head of the fish in your left hand, grasp it 
 firmly between the thumb and finger; in the 
 other hand have ready a cloth with a good 
 quantity of coarse salt; draw the eel through, 
 pressing it tightly as it passes through the salt, 
 then soak in salt and water one hour. When 
 thoroughly cleansed, cut them into pieces about 
 two inches long, put them into a brown earthen 
 pot with a cover, season with salt, pepper, and 
 allspice. Pour vinegar and water on them, and 
 bake in a slow oven till tender. 
 
 EELS, ROLLED. 
 
 Skin, clean, and dry a good-sized eel ; split it 
 down one side, and remove the principal bones. 
 
 Chop finely some parsley, tarragon, and a little 
 sage and onion, and mix them with the yolks 
 of two or three hard-boiled eggs. Eub the fish 
 well with salt and pepper, and fill it with a 
 layer of the mixture ; tie it firmly. Boil for 
 half an hour or till tender in equal parts of 
 water and vinegar, with the addition of a bay- 
 leaf, an onion, two or three cloves, a few 
 peppercorns, and salt to taste. Untie the fish 
 and put it into an earthenware vessel, strain the 
 liquor and pour it over. When cold serve with 
 a, mayonnaise or a remoulade sauce. Probable 
 cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 EELS, SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Eels are generally cooked without their skins, 
 thus rendering them more delicate, and requir- 
 ing only a mild sauce, such as capers, sorrel, or 
 parsley and butter for boiled eels; but when 
 very rich, as they always are if the skins are 
 retained, some piquante sauce is necessary (see 
 Sauce a la Tartaeb). 
 
 EEL SOUP. 
 
 Melt an ounce of dripping in a frying-pan, 
 and when boiling fry in it till pale brown a 
 large onion, peeled and sliced. Cut up one 
 skinned eel and put into the pan; fry on both 
 sides for a few minutes, then put into a stew- 
 pan with the onion, one clove, two peppercorns, 
 a sprig of parsley, one sliced carrot, and one 
 and a half quarts of water. Bring quickljr to 
 the boil. Add pepper and salt; skim occasion- 
 ally. Simmer for half an hour, stir in a table- 
 spoonful of sago, and simmer for another half- 
 hour. Stir till the sago swells. 
 EELS, SPATCHCOCKED. 
 
 Large eels are best for this mode of cooking. 
 When skinned and split, the backbones should 
 be taken out carefully without tearing the fish, 
 and they should be divided into pieces three or 
 four inches in length. Have ready a seasoning 
 of chopped parsley, a very little sage, a blade of 
 mace pounded, pepper, and salt; let the pieces 
 be well smeared with warmed butter and lemon- 
 juice (or let them lie in it for two or three 
 minutes), then strew the seasoning over, and 
 dip each piece in egg and bread-crumbs. Fry 
 in boiling fat, and serve in a round on the dish 
 with sauce piquante in the middle. Some pre- 
 fer plain melted butter with the juice of lemon. 
 Time, twenty minutes to fry. Probable cost, 
 6d. to Is. per pound. 
 
 EELS, SPATCHCOCKED (another way). 
 
 Take two pounds of eels; cut their heads off 
 with a sharp knife, skin and clean the fish, and 
 divide them into three-inch lengths ; bone these, 
 and sprinkle the inside of each with a mixture of 
 chopped parsley, sweet herbs, pepper and salt. 
 Put in a tiny piece of butter, and a squeeze of 
 lemon-juice, close them, cover each piece with 
 egg and bread-crumbs, and fry in boiling fat to 
 a golden brown. Drain on blotting-paper, and 
 serve on a hot napkin, garnished with fried 
 parsley and cut lemon. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 EELS, STEWED. 
 
 Divide four large eels into pieces of about 
 two inches, and season them with pepper, salt, 
 and a little pounded mace. Lay them in a 
 deep dish with a little veal stock, a bundle of 
 sweet herbs, and a very little chopped parsley 
 
EEL 
 
 193 
 
 EGG 
 
 sprinkled between the layers. Tie down with a 
 paper, first putting some small bits of butter on 
 the top. Stewed eels are always best when 
 done in a moderate oven. Time, one hour or 
 more. Probable cost, 6d. to Is. per pound. 
 
 EELS, STEWED. (another way). 
 
 Cut the heads off one pound and a half of 
 eels; skin and clean them, and cut them into 
 four-inch lengths. Melt one ounce of butter in 
 a small stewpan, put in the eels, and fry them 
 for five minutes. Dredge in a dessert-spoonful 
 of flour, and stir until smooth. Pour in one 
 pint of stock and a quarter of a pint of claret, 
 and stew gently for an hour. Add the juice of 
 half a lemon, and a seasoning of salt, stir 
 well, and serve on a very hot dish. Probable 
 cost, 2s. 
 
 EELS, STUFFED (k la Holiandaise). 
 
 Take a fine eel, skin and clean it, and divide 
 it into two pieces. Cut down the front and 
 carefully remove the backbone. Pill the hol- 
 low space with a firm stuffing made with whit- 
 ing, mixed with chopped truffles or mushrooms. 
 Put the pieces of eel in form again with bands 
 of fat pork or bacon, and tie with string. Place 
 them in a saucepan on a foundation of vege- 
 tables and herbs. Close the saucepan and let 
 them cook a little, then moisten with some' fish 
 stock and white wine. Cook for twenty or 
 thirty minutes. Now drain the pieces of eel, 
 arrange them on a dish, and garnish with 
 small potatoes. Send to table, with -.a sauce 
 Holiandaise (see Hollandaise Sauce) served 
 separately. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 
 EGG AND BRANDY CREAM. 
 
 Beat well the yolks of five fresh eggs with a 
 spoonful of cream. Add three ounces of sugar, 
 finely pounded and sifted, and two glasses of 
 the best French brandy. Blanch and pound 
 thirty-four sweet and six bitter almonds, and 
 boil them in a few spoonfuls of milk ; add them, 
 when cold, to the eggs, and stir the mixture 
 thoroughly. When it is perfectly mixed, pour 
 it into a well-lined saucepan along with a quart 
 of cream; stir one way till it becomes thick, 
 but do not let it boil. Serve in custard-cups 
 with a ratafia on the top of each. Probable 
 cost, about 4s. 9d. Sufficient for twelve cups. 
 
 EGG BALLS. 
 
 To one egg put just as little flour as will 
 make it into a paste that you can pinch into 
 shape with your fingers. Season with pepper, a 
 little grated nutmeg, and a little chopped 
 lemon-peel cut very thin. Work these into 
 pellets the size of marbles, making a few of 
 them long like miniature sausages. Put them 
 into boiling broth, and let ttiem boil very 
 quickly till their substance is set. 
 
 EGG CORDIAL. 
 
 Beat the white of an egg to a froth, add a 
 table-spoonful of cream and one of brandy. 
 Mix thoroughly. Probable cost, 4d. 
 
 EGG FLIP. 
 
 Make one pint of ale warm, but not too hot. 
 Beat two or three eggs, with three ounces of 
 sugar, together, pour the mixture into the jug 
 containing the ale, and then pour both back 
 
 into an empty jug. This must be done quickly 
 five or six times, until all is well ~ mixed to- 
 gether; then grate ginger and nutmeg over the 
 top, and the flip is quite ready. Serve in 
 glasses while hot. Time, a few minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, 7d. 
 
 EGG FRUIT, STUFFED. 
 
 Take a few of the egg fruits, cut off the ends, 
 divide them in halves, scoop out the interior, 
 salt them, and let them remain for an hour. 
 Chop up some onions and fry them nearly 
 black, add garlic and sage-leaves, a couple of 
 minced tomatoes, pepper and salt, and let the 
 whole brown in the oven. Stuff the " eggs " 
 with this mixture, and dip them in oil. Then 
 place them in a stewpan with a little brown 
 gravy and braise them, or roast them in the 
 oven in oiled paper cases. 
 
 EGG NOGG. 
 
 Put into a large tumbler a table-spoonful of 
 icing sugar and one egg. When well beaten 
 together add a table-spoonful of boiling water, 
 and a wine-glassful each of brandy and Jamaica 
 rum. Fill up the tumbler with boiling milk, 
 and mix well. Dust with nutmeg. Probable 
 cost. Is. 3d. 
 
 EGG PLANT, FRIED. 
 
 Peel one medium-sized egg plant, cut it into 
 six round slices about half an inch in thick- 
 ness, and season with half a tea-spoonful of 
 pc-pper. Dip the pieces in beaten egg and 
 fresh bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot fat 
 for five minutes. Bemove, salt slightly again, 
 and drain them well. Serve on a hot dish over 
 a folded napkin. {See also Atjbeeginbs.) 
 
 EGG-POWDER. 
 
 Egg-powder, as it is called, is a compound 
 intended to serve as a substitute for eggs, to 
 four of which one penny packet professes to be 
 equivalent in cake making, and sufficient to 
 add to two pounds of fiour. It is commonly 
 made as follows. Take one pound of cream of 
 tartar, half a pound of bicarbonate of soda, 
 two ounces of powdered magnesia, one ounce 
 of powdered carbonate of ammonia. Mix thor- 
 oughly, and keep in » dry place. 
 
 EGG SALAD. 
 
 Boil eight eggs hard, chop the yolks and 
 whites separately; put a little salad into a 
 dish, cover it with the eggs in layers. When 
 done, make a hole in the middle a,nd pour in 
 a little thick mayonnaise sauce. 
 
 EGG SANDWICHES. 
 
 Boil some eggs hard as if for a salad. When 
 quite cold, cut them into thin slices, sprinkle 
 with pepper and salt, and place the slices be- 
 tween nicely-prepared bread and butter. This 
 is a convenient and delicate preparation for a 
 journey taken in haste. 
 
 EGG SAUCE. 
 
 Blend two ounces of good fresh butter with a 
 dessert-spoonful of flour; put the mixture into 
 a small saucepan with a wine-glassful of water ; 
 or, if the sauce be intended for salt fish, of the 
 liquor in which the fish was boiled; see that it 
 is not too salt, a fault which a little milk or 
 water will remedy. Simmer, but do not boil. 
 
EGG 
 
 194 
 
 EGG 
 
 When ready to boil, draw the saucepan from 
 the fire, and stir in two ounces more of butter 
 and two or three hard-boiled eggs cut small. 
 Time, one minute to simmer. Probable cost, 
 6d. for this quantity. 
 
 EGG SAUCE FOR CALF'S HEAD. 
 
 Take half a pint of veal or any white broth, 
 thicken it with two ounces of butter blended 
 with an ounce and a half of flour; add, when 
 il boils, some minced parsley, three eggs boiled 
 hard and chopped separately, and a squeeze of 
 lemon-juice. Take the sauce off the fire, and 
 stir into it another ounce of butter. Serve in a 
 tureen. If liked, the egg-whites only may be 
 stirred into the sauce; the hard yolks may be 
 pressed through a wire sieve on to the meat. 
 
 EGG SOUFFLE, WITH CHEESE. 
 
 Break the yolks of four eggs into a small 
 basin, add two _table-spoonfuls of cream, one 
 ounce of Parmesan cheese, four ounces of 
 melted butter, salt and cayenne to taste; mix 
 well together, and finally add the whipped 
 whites of the four eggs. Butter a fire-proof 
 dish, and pour the mixture into it, allowing 
 plenty of room for it to rise. ■ Shake some 
 grated cheese over the top, and bake in a moder- 
 ate oven for about fifteen minutes. Probable 
 cost. Is. 9d. 
 
 EGG SOUP. 
 
 Pound eight hard-boiled eggs in a mortar, 
 with two table-spoonfuls of white sauce. When 
 reduced to a soft paste, add gradually a quart 
 of milk, season to taste, and put it on the fire 
 to boil. Then rub it through a tamis or fine 
 sieve with the aid of a wooden spoon. Mix 
 four yolks of eggs with half a pint of cream, 
 and add to the soup, bringing it again nearly 
 but not quite to boiling point. Serve with 
 bread croutons. Probable cost, 2s. 
 
 EGG TOAST. 
 
 Place a bowl containing three ounces of good 
 butter in boiling water, and stir until the butter 
 is quite melted; mix it with four well-beaten 
 eggs, and put them together into a saucepan, 
 keeping the mixture mewing round in one direc- 
 tion until it becomes heated; then pour it 
 quickly into a basin, and back again into the 
 saucepan. Repeat this until it is hot, but on no 
 account must it be boiling. Have ready some 
 slices of buttered toast, lay the mixture of egg 
 thickly over, and serve very hot. Time, about 
 five minutes. Probable co-st, lOd. Sufficient 
 for two persons. 
 
 EGGS (a la Bonne Femme). 
 
 Get six eggs of the same size, large ones, boil 
 them ten minutes, and when cool enough, re- 
 
 EGGS (A LA BONlfB FEMMEJ. 
 
 move the shells carefully. Divide them equally 
 in halves crosswise, take out the yolks and cut 
 from each the pointed tip of white that- they 
 may stand flatly. Make tmy dice of some cold 
 chickeuj ham, boiled beetroot, and the yolks of 
 the eggs. Fill the hollows with these up to 
 the brim, and pile the dice high in the centre — 
 two of ham and chicken, or separately, two of 
 boiled beetroot, and two with the hard yolks. 
 Arrange some neatly-cut lettuce on a dish, and 
 place the eggs amongst it. Suflicient for three 
 persons. 
 
 EGGS (a la Carmerte). 
 
 Chop some sorrel, a little parsley, and two or 
 three small boiled onions together; add, the 
 yolks of six hard-boiled eggs, chopped separ- 
 ately; season with pepper and salt, and mix 
 with a little melted butter. Fill the whites of 
 the eggs, which should be divided in halves, 
 lengthwise, with this mixture, and warm them 
 thoroughly in a white sauce composed of two 
 ounces of butter and a quarter of a pint of 
 cream, with a blade of mace to flavour. If flour 
 be used it should be only sufficient to prevent 
 the butter from oiling. Serve with a little 
 lemon-juice squeezed into the sauce. Time, 
 twenty minutes to boil eggs. Probable cost. 
 Is. 4d. 
 
 EGSS (k la Creme). 
 
 To five or six eggs that have been well 
 whipped to a froth add gradually half a pint of 
 cream, and, while mixing, flavour with a tea- 
 spoonful of salt. Butter a mould and pour in 
 the mixture. It may be baked gently in the 
 oven till set, or placed over a pan of boiling 
 water. When turned out of the mould, a rich 
 brown gravy should be poured round it. Prob- . 
 able cost, 2s. 
 
 EGGS (a la Duchesse). 
 
 Flavour one quart of milk with vanilla or 
 orange-flower water; or, if preferred, boil it 
 with lemon-rind, cinnamon, and bay-leaves 
 till the flavour is extracted; strain, sweeten to 
 taste, and when boiling have ready the whites of 
 four eggs beaten to a froth. Drop these from 
 a spoon into the boiling milk, remove when 
 done, and then place them to drain. Send 
 them to table in a glass dish, with a custard 
 made with the yolks and some of the milk (with 
 additional flavouring if required) poured over 
 them. Time, two minutes to poach the whites. 
 Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 EGGS (k la Foie Gras). 
 
 Cut six or more hard-boiled eggs in halves, 
 and take out the yolks; fill the cavities with, 
 pate de foie gras, season with pepper and salt, 
 and dish each piece on a thin slice of brown 
 bread and butter. Pass the yolks through a 
 sieve, and sprinkle them over all. Probable 
 cost, 2s. 
 
 EGGS (i la Fran^aise). 
 
 A very common and simple mode of dressing 
 eggs is to slide them as if for poaching on to a 
 well-buttered tin dish, and set them over the 
 fire or in an oven until the whites are set. This 
 is a favourite way of cooking them in France 
 
EGG 
 
 195 
 
 EGG 
 
 and Germany, where eggs are plentiful and 
 cheap. Time, four or five minutes to dress. 
 
 EGGS (k la Gruy^re). 
 
 Melt a quarter of a pound of Gruyere cheese in 
 a stewpan over a slow fire, with a small quan- 
 tity of butter, a quarter of a pint of veal stock, 
 a seasoning of finely-minted chives, parsley, 
 grated nutmeg, and salt. Add, as soon as the 
 cheese has been well stirred with the other in- 
 gredients, four well-beaten eggs, and stir till 
 the herbs are sufficiently done. Serve with 
 sippets of toasted bread. 
 
 EGGS (4 ritalienne). 
 
 Break eeven or eight eggs into a saucepan, 
 with a bit of butter in it. Add the juice of a 
 lemon, a glass of white wine, enough pounded 
 sugar to make them decidedly sweet, a pinch of 
 salt, and any approved flavouring, such as 
 orange-flower water or curacoa. Then proceed 
 exactly as with scrambled eggs (see Egss, 
 Sceambled). When they are set without being 
 hard, pile them on a hot dish, dust them well 
 with sugar, and candy it a little either under a 
 salamander or with a red-hot fire shovel. 
 
 EGGS (k la Maitre d'Hotel). 
 
 Slice and fry some Spanish onions in butter, 
 but do not let them brown. Add a little fiour, 
 some hot milk, chopped parsley, salt, and white 
 pepper, and let the sauce thicken. Cut into 
 quarters some eggs that have been boiled for 
 ten minutes, lay them in the sauce, and when 
 hot, arrange the eggs neatly in a dish and 
 pour the sauce over them. 
 
 EGGS (a U Suisse). 
 
 Have ready six or more patty-tins, well but- 
 tered ; cover the bottom of each with a slice of 
 Gruyere cheese ; break an egg into each without 
 disturbing the yolk; season with a little grated 
 nutmeg, salt and pepper; pour a little cream on 
 the surface. Strew the tops of them with 
 grated cheese, then place the tins on a baking 
 sheet and set them in the oven to bake for 
 about ten minutes. Have ready an equal num- 
 ber of slices of hot buttered toast, turn out 
 one tin on each, and serve at once. Probable 
 cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 EGGS (a la Tripe). 
 
 Cut half a dozen onions into shoes, let them 
 fall into rings, and fry them in butter, with- 
 out browning them. Take them up and put 
 them aside. Mix a. spoonful of flour with the 
 butter to make a paste, and add milk or broth 
 to make a smooth thick sauce. Put in the 
 onions and stew them gently till tender. Re- 
 move the shells from the eggs, slice the white 
 parts, and leave the yolks whole.- Put the 
 sliced whites into the sauce with the onions 
 till hot. Serve in a hot dish and garnish with 
 the uncut egg-yolks. 
 
 EGGS (^ la Tr^pe), another way. 
 
 Boil six eggs for ten minutes, and lay them 
 in cold water. Boil two Spanish onions. 
 When partly done, change the water, and when 
 quite done, peel and slice them. Simmer the 
 slices of onion for another half-hour in milk, 
 and add a bit of butter rolled in flour. Slice 
 the eggs lengthwise, and stir the sauce until it 
 
 is as smooth and thick as cream, then put in the 
 eggs. Garnish the dish with sippets of toast, 
 and serve with some newly-made mustard. 
 Time to boil onions, two hours or more. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 EGGS AND ANCHOVIES. 
 
 Break nine eggs into a basin, beat them up 
 with pepper, salt, and a very small piece of 
 minced onion. Heat in a small enamelled 
 saucepan one ounce of butter and a table-spoon- 
 ful of milk, add the eggs, etc., to it, and stir 
 till it thickens. Have ready some pieces of 
 hot buttered toast, lay the mixture on top, and 
 put a fillet of anchovy crosswise on each piece. 
 Probable cost. Is. 
 
 EGGS AND ASPARAGUS. 
 
 Cut a slice of bread to suit a dish, toast and 
 butter it while quite hot, then lay it on the 
 dish, and keep both warm by the side of the. 
 fire. Have ready six well-beaten eggs, add a 
 little salt and pepper, and put them into a 
 saucepan over the fire with a lump of butter. 
 Beat the eggs until they have lost their fluid 
 state, then spread them over the toast with 
 asparagus, boiled and cut small, laid on the 
 top of the eggs. Time, half an hour to pre- 
 pare. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for twa 
 or more persons. 
 
 EGGS AND ASPARAGUS (another way). 
 
 Boil some nice young asparagus, and cut it 
 into pieces as nearly as possible like peas. Have 
 ready four eggs well beaten, and flavoured with 
 pepper and salt. Put the asparagus with them 
 and stir gently; then dissolve two ounces of 
 butter in a stewpan, and stir the mixture until 
 it is thick. Serve on toast. Time to boil 
 asparagus, fifteen to eighteen minutes after the 
 water boils ; to stew with the eggs, two or three 
 minutes. Sufficient for two persons. 
 EGGS AND BREAD. 
 
 Take a penny loaf, soak it in a quart of milk 
 for two hours, or till the bread is soft. Put to 
 it two table-spoonfuls of orange-flower water or 
 rose-water ; sweeten it, and grate into it a little 
 nutmeg. Take a dish and butter the bottom of 
 it, break in as many eggs as will cover the bot- 
 tom, pour in the bread and milk, beat all briskly 
 with a fork, and bake in a well-heated oven for 
 half an hour. 
 
 EGGS AND BREAD SAUCE. 
 
 Make about half a pint of good bread sauce 
 nicely flavoured with onion (see Beead Sauce), 
 turn it into a flreproof baking-dish, slip six eggs 
 carefully on top, and bake in a, hot oven for 
 about five minutes, or until the eggs are set. 
 Probable cost, 9d. 
 
 EGGS AND BURNT BUTTER. 
 
 Prepare half a dozen eggs as if for poaching, 
 by breaking each one separately into a cup. 
 Brown three ounces of butter in a large frying- 
 pan, and slide the eggs from the cups into it; 
 when they have well set, ladle the burnt butter 
 over them, and sprinkle with salt and some nut- 
 meg. Serve on toast wetted with vinegar. Time, 
 from two and a half to three and a half minutes, 
 according to size of eggs. Sufficient, two eggs 
 for each person. 
 
EGG 
 
 196 
 
 EGG 
 
 EGGS AND CELERY. 
 
 Put into a stewpan four heads of celery that 
 have been previously cut into short pieces, and 
 boiled till nearly done in salt and water. Stew 
 the celery for five minutes with three table- 
 spoonfuls of cream and half a table-spoonful of 
 vinegar. Season according to taste with salt 
 and white pepper. Place the celery on a dish, 
 and serve poached eggs neatly on the top of it. 
 Garnish with slices of hard-boiled eggs. Time, 
 half an hour or more to boil celery. Sufficient for 
 five or six poached eggs. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 
 EGGS AND CHEESE. 
 
 Well butter a fireproof dish, grate a little 
 cheese over, dust with cayenne, and put it into 
 the oven for seven or eight minutes to heat. 
 Break carefully over this seven or eight eggs, 
 grate some more cheese over, add a good sprink- 
 £ng of pepper and salt, two ounces of bread- 
 crumbs, and, lastly, some small pats of butter. 
 Bake in a fairly hot oven for twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost. Is. 
 
 EQGS AND CUCUMBER. 
 
 Put three ounces of butter into a stewpan, 
 and let it dissolve. Peel, quarter, and cut into 
 slices three small cucumbers, and shred some 
 young onions; add these to the butter, flavour 
 with pepper and salt, and half a table-spoon- 
 ful of vinegar. When the mixture has sim- 
 mered ten minutes, have ready slices of six 
 hard-boiled eggs, which warm up for two min- 
 utes longer, stirring in a table-spoonful of cream 
 just before serving. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Suf- 
 ficient for three or four persons. 
 
 EGGS AND GRAVY, WITH STEWED FOWL. 
 
 Put a young well-fed fowl into a stewpan with 
 four ounces of butter, some spice, a faggot of 
 herbs, and half a dozen small onions, let it 
 brown slightly and equally; add half a pint of 
 stock, close the lid tightly, and finish the cook- 
 ing over a very slow fire. Parboil the liver of 
 the fowl in some good gravy, remove it, and 
 poach half a dozen eggs in the same liquor. Rub 
 -down the liver to a paste, and use it to thicken 
 the gravy in which the fowl has been stewed. 
 Tlace the fowl on a hot dish, with balls of 
 spinach round it ; lay a poached egg on each 
 ball, flattening it with the back of the slice; 
 ])our the gravy over the bird, and serve hot. 
 Time, one hour to stew the fowl. 
 
 EGGS AND MILK. 
 
 Beat six eggs with two ounces of loaf sugar 
 and a pint of milk; put the whole into a pie- 
 dish, which set for three-quarters of an hour 
 in a bain-marie (see Bain-Makie). When done, 
 sprinkle it with powdered sugar, pass a red-hot 
 shovel or salamander over the top, and serve 
 either hot or cold. 
 
 EGGS AND MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Cut off the ends and stalks from half a pint 
 of button mushrooms, put them into a basin 
 of water with a little lemon-juice as they are 
 done. Drain and slice them with some large 
 onions, and fry in butter. If preferred, the 
 onions can be omitted, and the mushrooms can 
 be stewed whole. Put the mushrooms when 
 tender on a dish, break some eggs upon them to 
 cover the surface, and in doing this be careful 
 
 not to break the yolks of the eggs. Season with 
 salt and pepper, sprinkle browned crumbs on 
 the top, and put the dish in a hot oven till the 
 eggs are set. Serve immediately. Time to stew 
 mushrooms, from ten to fifteen minutes. Cost 
 of mushrooms, 8d. to Is. 6d. per pound, accord- 
 ing to season. 
 
 EGGS AND ONIONS. 
 
 Fry some onions, nicely sliced, in butter ; put 
 a rather large sprinkling of cayenne pepper 
 over them. Drain them from the butter, and 
 put them on a dish before the fire to dry a 
 little. Press out the juice of a lemon over 
 them, and then lay nicely-poached eggs on the 
 top. Serve very hot. Time to fry onions, five 
 minutes; to poach eggs, three to four minutes. 
 Six eggs sufficient for three persons. 
 
 EGGS AND PARMESAN (a la Lorraine). 
 
 Break into a, basin four fresh eggs, season 
 with salt and cayenne, add a pint of cream, 
 one ounce of grated Parmesan cheese, and the 
 same of Gruyere. Mix all thoroughly together. 
 Fill twelve small fireproof dishes with the mix- 
 ture, and set them to poach for twenty min- 
 utes in a tightly covered flat saucepan, taking 
 care that the water does not boil. When done 
 sprinkle a little grated Parmesan on the sur- 
 face of each, and colour with the salamander, 
 or a red-hot iron. Probable cost, 8d. 
 
 EGGS AND POTATOES.. 
 
 Boil seven or eight floury potatoes and mash 
 them while quite hot ; add one ounce of butter, 
 the yolk of an egg, pepper, and salt, and, if 
 liked, a little pounded onion, and boiled minced 
 parsley. Roll the potatoes into egg-like shape, 
 brush them over with beaten egg, and cover 
 with fine bread-crumbs well seasoned with salt 
 and white pepper. Put them into an oven to 
 brown, or fry in lard or dripping till they are 
 of a fine brown colour; lay them before the 
 fire to drain, if fried, and serve garnished with 
 fried parsley. Time, half an hour to boil pota- 
 toes. Probable cost. Id. to 2d. per pound. 
 Allow one pound for three persons. 
 
 EGGS AND SAUCE. 
 
 Chop finely a tea-spoonful each of parsley 
 and chives, and put them into a stewpan, with 
 two ounces of butter and a little fiour; add a 
 glass of sherry, a tea-spoonful of salt, and half 
 the quantity of pepper. When the sauce has 
 simmered about ten minutes, have ready half 
 a dozen poached eggs; lay them on toast, and 
 send to table with the sauce poured round. 
 Sufficient sauce for six eggs. Probable cost. 
 Is., without wine. 
 
 EGGS AND SAUCE ROBERT. 
 
 Boil twelve eggs for fifteen minutes, quarter 
 them, after removing the shells, and have 
 ready the above sauce, in which the eggs should 
 be placed just long enough to heat them thor- 
 oughly; gently introduce them into the sauce 
 (see RoBEET Sauce) that they may not get 
 broken, and serve hot. Allow two eggs for each 
 person. 
 
 EGGS AND SPINACH. 
 
 Prepare some spinach by washing it very care- 
 fully, and then boiling till tender. Put it into 
 
EGG 
 
 197 
 
 EGG 
 
 cold water to keep the colour good, and when 
 quite cold, press the water out of it, a little at 
 a time, in a towel. Chop it very fine, and put 
 it into a stewpan with a lump of butter and 
 some rich gravy. Boil it quickly in this, and 
 add pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Or it may be 
 stewed with cream and a little svigar, which is a 
 very delicate method. Poach six eggs, and 
 trim them neatly. Serve them upon the spin- 
 ach. Time, ten to fifteen minutes to boil; five 
 minutes to stew. Probable cost, 4d. per pound. 
 Sufficient for three persons. 
 
 EGGS AND TOMATOES. 
 
 Cut three large ripe tomatoes and two onions 
 into slices, add two table-spoonfuls of chopped 
 parsley, and pepper and salt to taste. Put these 
 into a frying-pan with three ounces of butter, 
 and allow them to cook gently for twenty min- 
 utes. Poach four eggs, lay them on hot but- 
 tered toast, and pour the mixture over them. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 EGGS AND WHITE SAUCE. 
 
 Cut five hard-boiled eggs in halves, so as to 
 form cups of the whites when the yolk is re- 
 moved. Mix the yolks to a paste with a table- 
 spoonful of cream and an ounce of butter; add 
 to it a tea-spoonful of minced onion and parsley, 
 and when well flavoured with salt and cay- 
 enne, fill the whites and set them ~ over steam 
 till quite hot. Pare off the pointed tips, as be- 
 fore directed (see Eggs a la Bonne Fbmme), 
 that they may stand steadily on the dish. Serve 
 in white sauce. Time, ten minutes to boil eggs. 
 
 EGGS, AS SNOW. 
 
 Separate the yolks from the whites of six 
 eggs. Beat the whites to a froth, with a little 
 finely-powdered sugar. Have ready a full pint 
 of new milk well sweetened and flavoured with 
 vanilla, orange-flower water, or rose-water. 
 Put it into a saucepan on the fire. When 
 it boils, drop in, one by one, table-spoon- 
 fuls of the frothed egg, and when set, remove 
 each with a spoon. By varying the quantity 
 dropped in, a handsomer dish will be obtained 
 than by keeping to one uniform size. Arrange 
 the patches of snow on a large dish, and group 
 the larger ones in the centre. When the milk has 
 cooled a little, mix the egg-yolks slowly and very 
 gradually with it till all are used, and it has be- 
 come thick. Pour this amongst and around, but 
 not over the snow. Serve cold as a supper dish.- 
 
 EGGS (au Qratin). 
 
 Chop very fine en anchovy, a shallot, and 
 a sprig of parsley, and mix them with three 
 yolks of eggs to a small cupful of bread-crumbs 
 and two ounces of butter ; season with salt and 
 pepper. Have ready a hot dish ; butter it well, 
 and strew the mixture over the bottom. Place 
 the dish in a Dutch oven, and brown it slightly ; 
 then break half a dozen eggs into separate cups 
 and slide them neatly on to the dish, after 
 which return it to the oven for three minutes, 
 or until the whites have set. Serve immedi- 
 ately. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for 
 three persons. 
 
 EGGS (au Miroir). 
 
 Spread butter upon a dish that can be set on 
 the fire; break the desired number of eggs 
 
 into it, adding salt, pepper, and two spoonfuls 
 of milk ; place it on a slow fire, and hold a red- 
 hot shovel over the dish, and serve when the eggs 
 are set. Or, cut some asparagus tops into pieces 
 like peas ; boil them a quarter of an hour, then 
 take them out, and put them into a stewpan, 
 with a bunch of parsley, chives, and a piece of 
 butter ; set them over a slow fire, put in a pinch 
 of flour, add a little water, and let them stew, 
 seasoning with salt and sugar. When done, put 
 them into the dish they are to be served in, and 
 break over them some eggs, seasoned with salt, 
 pepper, and nutmeg. Set them on the fire for a 
 short time, pass a red-hot shovel over them, 
 and serve the yolks soft. 
 
 EGGS, BAKED. 
 
 Cut six hard-boiled eggs into halves, and 
 take a small slice from underneath, so that 
 they can stand upright. Take out the yolks 
 and mash them with two ounces of cooked veal, 
 three anchovies, a little parsley, and two mush- 
 rooms, all finely minced, and pepper and salt 
 to taste. Fill in the cavities with the mixture; 
 brush over with e^g, and bake in a moderate 
 oven for twenty minutes. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 EGGS, BEATING. 
 
 This is best done with a wooden fork in a 
 shallow, flat-bottomed pan; bestow the beat- 
 ing with short, quick, downward strokes, with- 
 out moving the elbow, which should be kept 
 close to the side. When the foaming and bub- 
 bles disappear, and the beaten eggs assume the 
 appearance which has been well described as 
 that of a rich boiled custard, your task will have 
 been very well accomplished. Kent's egg- 
 beater is an excellent little instrument which 
 greatly facilitates this process. 
 
 EGGS, BLANCMANGE OF. 
 
 Empty four or five large eggs by making a- 
 small opening at one end. Wash them with a 
 little warm water, and then drain dry. Fix 
 them steadily into egg-cups, or put them into a 
 dish filled with rice or sago, and fill with blanc- 
 mange by the same aperture through which the 
 egg contents escaped. Do not disturb them 
 till quite cold. Carefully remove the shells, 
 and serve the blancmange eggs in a glass dish 
 with a coloured cream around them, or shred 
 a lemon or orange into the lightest of fine 
 strips, and lay them amongst it. 
 
 EGGS, BOILED. 
 
 The lightest preparation of eggs is to simply 
 boil them thi;ee minutes, when the white will 
 be slightly coagulated, and the yolk will re- 
 tain its fluid state. A new-laid egg will require 
 longer boiling than a stale one. Pour minutes 
 is not too long to get the white well set of a 
 quite fresh egg, while three minutes will be 
 generally sufficient for one more advanced. 
 
 EGGS, BOILED HARD. 
 
 An e^g may be boiled hard in from five to 
 ten minutes, but to boil them mealy (which is 
 the lightest preparation next to only boiling 
 them long enough to set the white) allow one 
 whole hour. The experiment should be tested 
 by those who are not aware of the result. It 
 transforms the hard-boiled egg into a digestible 
 article of food. 
 
EGQ 
 
 198 
 
 EGG 
 
 EGGS, BUTTERED. 
 
 Brown some butter in it, frying-pan, and 
 break five eggs upon a dish, as if for poaching, 
 with a seasoning of salt and nutmeg; pour 
 some of the butter, in its boiling state, over 
 them, and move them gently to get all the 
 butter about them ; put the dish by the fire to 
 keep hot, and finish browning the eggs with a 
 red-hot shovel if you have no salamander. Time 
 to brown butter, etc., about ten minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, 7d. Sufficient for one dish. 
 
 EGGS, BUTTERED (another way). 
 
 Put three ounces of butter into a basin, place 
 it in boiling water, and stir till melted; add 
 eight eggs, veil beaten, and pour both together 
 into a well-lined saucepan. When the eggs 
 and butter have been held long enough over a 
 gentle fire to warm, turn them back into the 
 basin and again into the saucepan; do this two 
 or three times, that they may get thoroughly 
 blended. Keep the mixture stirred one way 
 till hot, but do not let it boil, or it will curdle. 
 Cut slices of bread, toast, and butter them 
 while hot. Serve with the buttered eggs on 
 the top. Time, about five minutes to make the_ 
 eggs hot. Probable cost. Is. 4d. Sufficient for 
 four persons. 
 
 EGGS, BUTTERED, AND MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan; 
 when melted add four fresh eggs well beaten, a 
 table-spoonful of chopped mushrooms, and salt 
 and pepper to taste. Stir them over the fire 
 until quite thick. Pour over hot buttered toast 
 and serve without delay. Probable cost, lOd. 
 
 ECQS, BUTTERED, AND SHRIMPS. 
 
 Melt two ounces of butter in a small 
 enamelled saucepan, add six beaten eggs, a 
 table-spoonful of milk, and a quarter of a pint 
 of picked shrimps ; season with pepper and salt 
 to taste. Stir until the mixture thickens, then 
 spread it on hot buttered toast. Garnish with 
 parsley and little heaps of shrimps round the 
 dish. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 
 EGGS, CARMELITE. 
 
 Shell four hard-boiled eggs and roll them in 
 a little flour. Chop up half a pound of lobster. 
 Melt one ounce of butter, and mix smoothly with 
 it one ounce of flour, then add the lobster, and 
 pour in one gill of cold water. Stir, over the 
 fire, till it boils and leaves the sides of the pan 
 quite clean, season with salt and pepper, and 
 spread on a plate to cool. Flatten out some of 
 the mixture, and roll up an egg in it, keeping it 
 in the shape of the egg. Brush each coated egg 
 with some beaten egg, then roll it in bread- 
 crumbs. When all are coated, fry them a 
 golden brown in plenty of hot fat. Drain them 
 on paper, and serve them either whole or cut in 
 halves. Probable cost, 2s. for four portions. 
 
 EGGS COOKED WITHOUT BOILING. 
 
 By this very simple process eggs are said to 
 be lighter and better adapted to delicate 
 stomachs than by the old and general plan of 
 boiling. Proceed as follows. Heat a basin 
 with boiling water till it is thoroughly hot ; 
 then throw off the water and put the eggs to 
 be cooked into it, moving them round so that 
 every part shall receive the heat. Have ready 
 
 a kettle of boiling water, pour this over the 
 eggs, and cover the basin to prevent any steam 
 from escaping. In twelve minutes they will be 
 perfectly cooked. 
 EGGS, CROUSTADE OF. 
 
 Stamp out some rounds of bread, hollow out 
 the centres carefully, butter them well, and fill 
 with the following mixture. Melt two ounces 
 of butter in a pan with two tea-spoonfuls of 
 finely-chopped onion, a tea-cupful of bread- 
 crumbs, two finely-minced hard-boiled eggs, a 
 small quantity of good gravy or stock, and salt 
 and pepper to taste. Let them stew for five min- 
 utes; squeeze a little lemon- juice over, and 
 bake them in a moderate oven for five minutes. 
 Garnish with mustard and cress. 
 
 EGGS, CURRIED. 
 
 Fry a couple of middle-sized onions in butter, 
 and stir into the pan, as soon as the onions are 
 slightly browned, one table-spoonful of curry- 
 powder. Mix well, and add by degrees half a 
 pint of veal stock ; keep stirring the sauce until 
 it is smooth and thick. When the mixture has 
 simmered from ten to fifteen minutes, add, 
 carefully stirring, two table-spoonfuls of cream, 
 and let it simmer a few minutes longer. Have 
 r^ady sliced half a dozen hard-boiled eggs, 
 lay them in the curry sauce long enough to get 
 quite hot, then serve both together on a dish. 
 Time, half an hour to prepare; eight or ten 
 minutes to boil eggs. Sufficient, two eggs for 
 each person. 
 
 EGGS, DEVILLED. 
 
 Cut four hard-boiled eggs into halves, re- 
 move the yolks without breaking the whites , 
 mix the yolks with a tea-spoonful of anchovy 
 sauce, a little cayenne pepper and salt, and 
 fill the white-cups with it; set them to stand 
 on a dish by cutting off the pointed tip, sur- 
 round them with small cress and finely-cut 
 lettuce. Time, fifteen minutes to boil eggs. 
 
 EGGS, DISHED. 
 
 Take a strong earthen or metal dish. But- 
 ter 'the inside well. Break into it, without 
 damaging the yolks, as many eggs as it will 
 hold without their lying one upon the other. 
 On the top of each drop pepper, salt, and a 
 little bit of butter. Set them into the oven, 
 upon the stove, or in an American oven before 
 the fire ; watch their progress, and as soon as 
 ' the butter is all melted, and the whites well 
 set, serve. The heat of the dish will cook them 
 a little more after they are taken from the oven. 
 Eggs so done are often preferable to fried eggs. 
 They are free from the tough brown under- 
 surfaee.to which the latter are liable, which also 
 is indigestible, even when it is rather crisp 
 than horny. 
 
 EQCS (en Marinade). 
 
 Mix equal quantities of water and good veal 
 gravy, two table-spoonfuls of each, with a tea- 
 spoonful of vinegar and a seasoning of pepper 
 and salt; put it into a stewpan, and stir in 
 gradually two well-beaten yolks of eggs. When 
 it thickens, and before it boils, have ready half 
 a dozen nicely-poached eggs, and pour the sauce 
 over them. Garnish with parsley. Time, ten 
 minutes to prepare. Sufficient for three persons. 
 
EGG 
 
 199 
 
 EGG 
 
 EGGS FOR SALAD. 
 
 Remove the shells carefully from six hard- 
 boiled eggs, cut them iu halves lengthwise, and 
 carefully take out the yolks. Pound these with 
 two ounces of ham, one ounce of anchovies, the 
 same of veal and fat bacon, salt, cayenne, and 
 mace to taste, add also a spoonful of minced 
 sweet herbs, and one of parsley. Fill the eggs 
 neatly with this forcemeat, smooth them to a 
 rcimd shape with the blade of a, large knife, 
 and place a star of beetroot upon each one. 
 When thus prepared use them to garnish salad. 
 If preferred, the eggs can be put on a dish, and 
 served with well-flavoured brown sauce poured 
 round them. In this case they may be gar- 
 nished with fried sippets. 
 
 EGGS FOR SUPPER. 
 
 Beat up six eggs, yolks and whites, add to 
 them two or three young onions and some 
 parsley shredded very fine ; season with salt and 
 pepper. Mix the above with equal quantities 
 of melted butter and grated cheese, about two 
 ounces of each, and fry lightly, stirring the 
 mixture briskly while in the pan (see Omelet'). 
 Time, six to eight minutes to fry. Probable 
 cost, lOd. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 EGGS, FRASCATI. 
 
 Boil six eggs hard, and shell them carefully. 
 Beat up an egg and dip the six eggs in it. 
 Eoll them in breadcrumbs, and fry them in 
 boiling fat to a golden brown. Serve with a 
 good white sauce poured round them. Grated 
 or potted ham or tongue may with advantage be 
 mixed with the bread-crumbs. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 EGGS, FRICASSEED. 
 
 Boil three eggs hard, and lay them in cold 
 water. Melt a slice of butter in a stewpan, 
 and throw in a small onion finely chopped; fry 
 till soft. Mix a dessert-spoonful of flour with 
 the butter to a smooth paste, add two table- 
 spoonfuls of gravy, and stir till thick. Cut the 
 eggs into quarters, and lay them gently in the 
 gravy. Shake the pan round, then pour in a 
 small cupful of cream, shake the pan again, but 
 do not break the eggs. When the sauce is 
 thick and smooth, put the eggs on a dish, and 
 serve with the sauce poured over, and a garnish 
 of lemon round the dish. Time : ten minutes 
 to boil eggs, ten minutes to prepare the fri- 
 cassee. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 
 EGGS, FRICASSEED, WHITE. 
 
 Boil six eggs hard, and cut each of them 
 into half a dozen slices. Make a sauce as fol- 
 lows. Chop some parsley, a piece of shallot, 
 and a few mu.shrooms, all very finely; put 
 these into a stewpan with two ounces of butter ; 
 add Ealt aid pepper, and stew, but do not brown, 
 till quite done. Thicken with flour mixed with 
 a small cupful of cream. Lay the slices of sgg 
 in; give the whole a boil, and serve. This fri- 
 cassee may be varied by substituting a good, 
 rich brown gravy for the cream. Time, ten to 
 fifteen minutes to boil the eggs. Probable cost. 
 Is. 8d. for this quantity. Sufficient for three or 
 . four persons. 
 
 EGOS, FRIED. 
 
 The frying-pan should be scrupulously clean, 
 or the white part of the egg will be spoiled. 
 
 Dripping, butter, or oil may be used. Break 
 the eggs first into a cup, and slip each one into 
 the pan as soon as it is hot. As the eggs fry 
 raise their edges with a slicer, give them a 
 slight shake, and ladle a little of the butter 
 over the yolk. In two or three minutes they 
 will be done; take them out with the slicer, 
 pare off the rough edges, and drain from the 
 greasy moisture. Serve on slices of bacon, 
 or lay them in the middle of- a dish with 
 bacon or ham as a garnish. Probable cost. 
 Id. to 2d. each. Allow two eggs for one 
 person. 
 
 EGGS, FRIED (another way). 
 
 Break the eggs into a pan of boiling fat, 
 one by one, and fry them, taking care that 
 the yolks do not harden. Serve them with 
 white sauce or gravy, or with a forcemeat of 
 sorrel. 
 
 EGGS, FROTHED. 
 
 Mix the juice of a lemon with a table-spoon- 
 ful of water, and beat up with it the yolks of 
 eight eggs and the whites of four. Sweeten 
 to taste, and add a pinch of salt. Put the mix- 
 ture into an omelet-pan and fry carefully. Have 
 ready four whites of eggs whipped with a pound 
 of fine sugar to a high froth, and flavoured with 
 vanilla or lemon. Place the omelet on a dish, 
 and heap the frothed eggs over it. Brown it 
 lightly in an oven or before the fire. Time to 
 fry, about five minutes. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 EGGS, GENOA. 
 
 Lay some slices of cheese on a well-buttered 
 baking-tin, sprinkle a little pepper and salt 
 over, break in four eggs, cover with bread- 
 crumbs, add one ounce of oiled butter, and 
 bake in a hot oven for twelve to fifteen min- 
 utes. Sprinkle a little minced parsley over, 
 and serve very hot. Probable cost, 9d. 
 
 EGGS IN A NEST. 
 
 Take the green part of some cooked aspara- 
 gus, and place it on a round hot dish to imitate 
 a nest. To do this, place a row of heads slanl^ 
 ing close together; go round with a second 
 lot, bringing the heads in the opposite direc- 
 tion. Keep the centre clear by putting some- 
 thing to occupy it while arranging, and keep 
 the dish over hot water. When sufficient is put 
 on to make a thick nest, fill the middle with 
 boiled eggs, shelled, and coated with thick 
 white sauce, and serve with chopped parsley 
 sprinkled over. 
 
 EGGS IN PAPER CASES. 
 
 Make a seasoning with a tea-spoonful of 
 chopped parsley, one of green onions, a clove of 
 garlic, some pepper, salt, and a cupful of fine 
 bread-crumbs. Have ready some small paper 
 cases ; dissolve some butter and paint the in- 
 side of the cases with a small brush till they 
 are lined thickly with it, then sprinkle a little 
 seasoning into each. Break six eggs singly into a 
 cup, and put one on the top of the crumbs in 
 each case, and cover with more. Bake in a 
 gentle oven until the eggs are set. Serve in 
 the cases. If preferred, the eggs can be baked 
 iu small moulds, and can be turned on to a dish 
 for serving. 
 
EGGS 
 
 200 
 
 EGG 
 
 EGGS, JUMBLED. 
 
 Break four eggs into a stewpan with two 
 ounces of butter ^nd a seasoning of salt and 
 pepper; let them set over a clear fire, and stir 
 till the mixture becomes rather solid; then re- 
 move, and serve with or without a ragout of 
 vegetables, celery, lettuce, spinach, sorrel, or 
 asparagus tops. Or it may be sent to table 
 upon slices of hot buttered toast. Time, five 
 minutes. Probable cost, without vegetables, 
 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 EGGS, LIAISON OF, FOR THICKENING SAUCES. 
 
 When eggs are used for thickening great 
 care is required to keep the sauce from boiling, 
 and the least cessation from stirring during the 
 heating process will spoil the whole contents of 
 the saucepan. Make a liaison as follows. 
 Beat well the yolks of three eggs, and add to 
 them three small wine-glassfuls of cream or 
 two and a half glassfuls of milk. When well 
 mixed, strain through a sieve. 
 
 EGGS ON CRUMPETS. 
 
 Cut three crumpets in halves, toast and but- 
 ter them, lay a piece of thinly sliced boiled ham 
 on each half crumpet. Keep them hot whilst 
 six eggs are being poached, put an egg on each 
 piece, and serve at once. 
 
 EGGS, PICKLED. 
 
 KemoVe the shells from three or four dozen 
 hard-boiled eggs; do not break them, but 
 arrange them carefully in large-mouthed jars. 
 Boil one pint of vinegar, with allspice, ginger, 
 and a couple of cloves of garlic. When the 
 flavour of the spice is extracted, add another 
 pint of vinegar, bring it to a boil, and pour 
 scalding hot over the eggs. When cold, seal 
 up the jars for a month. This will be found a 
 cheap pickle when eggs are plentiful, and for its 
 piquancy is much liked. 
 
 EGGS, PLOVER'S. 
 
 These eggs are much esteemed for their rich 
 flavour, and the beautiful colour of the white 
 part, which is much used for decorating salads. 
 When boiled hard they are eaten hot or cold ; 
 and with a good brown gravy or some bechamel 
 Bauce they make a dainty breakfast dish. 
 
 EGGS, POACHED. 
 
 Put a pint of water into a stewpan, with four 
 tea-spoonfuls of vinegar, and half a tea-spoon- 
 ful of salt; place it over the fire, and while 
 boiling break the eggs into it near the surface 
 of the water, and let it boil gently about three 
 minutes. Lay upon a dish a thin piece of 
 toasted bread; take the eggs out carefully with 
 a small slicer, and lay the slicer with the eggs 
 upon a cloth for a second, to drain the water 
 from them; then set them carefully upon the 
 toast, and serve very hot. 
 
 EGGS, POACHED, IN GRAVY. 
 
 Take quite fresh eggs, break half a dozen 
 into separate tea-cups, and slip each very gently 
 into a stewpan of boiling water, one pint in 
 quantity, to which has been added a wine- 
 glassful of vinegar and a tea-spoonful of salt, 
 previously boiled, but set to cool. Put the stew- 
 pan over the fire, and as the eggs set, remove 
 them with a slicer into a large flat dish, and 
 be very careful not to break them. Trim, drain. 
 
 and serve them in a rich brown gravy. Probable 
 cost, 7d. or 8d. Sufficient for three persons. 
 
 EGGS, POACHED, WITH CREAM 
 
 Put half a gill of cream into a small sauce- 
 pan, and season it with salt, pepper, and 
 pounded sugar to taste. Let it warm gradu- 
 ally, and when ready to boil, remove it from 
 the fire and stir in an ounce of butter; keep 
 moving the saucepan round until the butter is 
 dissolved. Have ready four or five fresh eggs 
 poached; lay them on a dish, pour the sauce 
 quickly over, and serve. Time, three to four 
 minutes to poach the eggs. Probable cost, 9d. 
 Allow two eggs for each person. 
 
 EGGS, POACHED, WITH MADEIRA SAUCE. 
 
 Poach the required number of eggs, trim 
 them neatly, and lay them on slices of fried 
 bacon. Garnish round with small forcemeat 
 balls, and pour over them a quarter of a pint 
 of Madeira sauce. (See Madeiea Sauce.) 
 
 EGGS, POTTED. 
 
 Pound the hard-boiled yolks of twelve eggs 
 with anchovy sauce. Mix them to » paste with 
 two ounces of good fresh butter, and season 
 with two tea-spoonfuls of salt and one of white 
 pepper. Have ready some small pots, and chop 
 the whites of the eggs very small. As the pots 
 are being filled with the paste, strew in the 
 chopped whites, and cover over the tops with 
 clarified butter. These eggs will not keep long. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. for this quantity. 
 
 EGGS, PRESERVED. 
 
 Whatever process be adopted, the eggs should 
 always be newly laid. A solution of gum 
 arabic, if not too expensive, will be found to 
 answer well. Smear the eggs thoroughly, and, 
 when dry, cover with powdered charcoal, bran, 
 or sawdust. They may also be preserved by 
 plunging them in a net in boiling water for 
 about twenty seconds, and then packing in 
 bran, etc. To keep a longer time, make a 
 solution of quick-lime, salt, and cream of 
 tartar, in the proportion of three pounds of 
 lime, one ounce of cream of tartar, and half a 
 pound of salt, to about five or six quarts of 
 boiling water. When quite cold, cover the eggs 
 with the solution, and throw a thick covering 
 over the vessel. Salt, as in all cases of food 
 preservation, is good here. Cover the bottom 
 of a box or barrel with salt, and lay. in as many 
 eggs as it will take without touching each 
 other. Throw in salt, finely powdered, enough 
 to fill up the spaces between the eggs, and to 
 make another layer or cover. Continue to place 
 eggs and salt alternately, and let the top be at 
 least an inch deep of salt ; press the salt down 
 firmly, that no air shall enter to the eggs, and 
 cover with a cloth and a tight-fitting lid. Store 
 in a dry, cool place. 
 
 EGGS, PUREE OF. 
 
 Boil seven eggs hard; take off the whites, 
 chop them very small and put them aside. 
 Pound the yolks in a mortar; add to them 
 rather less than two ounces of good fresh but- 
 ter, a little chopped parsley, and a seasoning 
 of salt and pepper. Bind with the beaten yolks 
 of three uncooked eggs, and pass the mixture 
 through a colander into the middle of s dish. 
 
EGG 
 
 201 
 
 EGG 
 
 Put the minced whites into a stewpan with half 
 a pint of gravy, and stir till thickish, then pour 
 it round the yolks, and garnish with sippets of 
 bread, which should be brushed over with egg. 
 Brown slightly, either in a Dutch oven or be- 
 fore the fire, and serve hot. Time, ten minutes 
 to boil the eggs. Sufficient for three persons. 
 
 EGGS, RAGOUT OF. 
 
 Boil twelve eggs hard, and with a small knife 
 carefully divide the whites lengthwise into 
 halves, taking care to keep the yolks whole and 
 the whites unbroken. Place the yolks and 
 whites in nice order in a dish, the hollow parts 
 of the whites uppermost, and fill them as high 
 as possible with fried bread-crumbs. Now make 
 a sauce as follows. Boil half an ounce of truffles 
 in three or four table-spoonfuls of water, and 
 chop them very fine with a quarter of a pint of 
 pickled mushrooms. Mince some parsley, boil 
 it in the water saved from the truffles, add three 
 more table-spoonfuls of water, a, gill of red 
 wine, a spoonful of ketchup, a little grated 
 nutmeg and mace, with a bit of butter rolled 
 in flour; boil all together, and pour the mix- 
 ture over the eggs. 
 
 EGGS, SAVOURY. 
 
 Put two ounces of butter into a stewpan, first 
 rubbing the bottom of it with a clove of garlic. 
 When the butter has become very hot, stir in 
 five eggs previously well beaten, and seasoned 
 with salt, pepper, and a grain of cayenne ; con- 
 tinue to stir quickly till done, and send to table 
 on a hot dish. Time, about four minutes. 
 Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for two persons. 
 EGGS, SAVOURY, AND CHEESE. 
 
 Butter a, pie-dish, and put into it some thin 
 slices of cheese and a little cayenne. Break 
 six eggs carefully into the dish, being careful 
 not to break the yolks» Strew over them some 
 finely-chopped parsley and about two ounces of 
 grated cheese. Put a few bread-crumbs on top 
 and small pieces of butter. Bake in a quick 
 oven for ten or fifteen minutes. Probable 
 cost. Is. 
 
 EGGS, SCALLOPED. 
 
 Make a forcemeat with grated ham or tongue, 
 fine bread-crumbs, pepper, salt, a little minced 
 parsley, and some melted butter; moisten with 
 milk to a smooth paste. "Half fill some scallop- 
 shells with the mixture, break an egg carefully 
 on top of each, season with salt and pepper, 
 and sprinkle a few bread-crumbs over. Bake 
 in the oven for six or seven minutes until the 
 eggs are set. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 EGGS, SCOTCH. 
 
 Prepare a forcemeat of bread-crumbs, grated 
 ham, an anchovy pounded, and mixed spices. 
 Roll five hard-boiled eggs, freed from their 
 shells, first into beaten egg, and then into the 
 forcemeat. Put some good dripping or lard 
 into a frying-pan, and brown the eggs slightly 
 in it, turning them round that all sides may be 
 done alike. Serve with good rich gravy in a 
 tureen. Time, ten minutes to boil the eggs. 
 Probable cost, 8d. or lOd. 
 
 EGGS, SCRAMBLED. 
 
 This dish differs very little in its mode 
 of preparation from "jumbled" eggs. When 
 
 the pan has been well oiled with good 
 butter, put into it as many eggs as it 
 will hold separately, that each yolk may be 
 entire. When the whites have become slightly 
 hard, stir from the bottom of the pan till done, 
 adding a piece of butter, pepper, and salt. 
 When done, the yolks and whites should not be 
 blended, but appear as separate streaks stirred 
 together. Serve on hot buttered toast with 
 anchovy sauce, potted meat, cheese, or fish 
 spread over it first. The eggs should be of the 
 consistency of butter. Time, five minutes. 
 
 EGGS, SCRAMBLED, WITH HAM. 
 
 Melt three ounces of butter in a stewpan over 
 the fire. Break into it six eggs separately, add 
 a tea^cupful of milk, a sprinkling of salt, and a 
 pinch of pepper. Whisk very briskly until the 
 eggs begin to set. Add three ounces of cooked 
 ham or tongue cut into thin slices, and divided 
 into half-inch squares. Stir well, and turn out 
 on a very hot dish. Garnish with fried croii- 
 tons, and serve at once. A little tomato sauce 
 poured round them is an improvement. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 3d. 
 
 EGGS, STEAMED. 
 
 Break half a dozen eggs into separate cups, 
 and have ready a well-buttered dish, into which 
 each egg should be placed carefully. Cover the 
 dish to prevent the heat from escaping, and 
 set it over a pan of boiling water, first putting 
 small bits of butter lightly over the top of the 
 eggs. When they are set sufficiently, sprinkle 
 them with a little salt, and serve with fried 
 ham or sausages. Time, about four minutes to 
 set. 
 
 EGGS, STUFFED. 
 
 Cut four hard-boiled eggs into halves length- 
 wise; take out the yolks and pound them with 
 two ounces of butter, one ounce of chopped 
 ham, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a 
 little pepper and salt. Refill the eggs with this 
 mixture, sprinkle over with a few bread-crumbs 
 and specks of butter, and brown in a quick 
 oven. Serve very hot. Probable cost, lOd. 
 EGGS, SUNSHINY. 
 
 Melt a little butter in an omelet-pan, sprinkle 
 salt upon it, and break into it one or more eggs 
 according to the number required. Fry these 
 over the fire for about two minutes till they 
 are sufficiently cooked, and be careful to turn 
 up the edges to keep them from spreading too 
 far. Before sending them to table sprinkle 
 pepper over them, and cover them with tomato 
 sauce. This dish is named by Italians eggs in 
 purgatory. Eggs prepared in the same way, 
 and sprinkled over with grated Parmesan or 
 Gruyere cheese, are named eggs in moonshine. 
 
 EGGS, TURKEY'S, TO DRESS. 
 
 Choose those of the young bird for cooking in 
 the shell. They may be known by their pale, 
 almost white colour. The larger ones are ex- 
 cellent for poaching, and to serve in the com- 
 position of any dishes where eggs are required. 
 Time, six minutes to boil, four to poach. 
 
 EGGS, WHISKED. 
 
 A common wire whisk, as represented in the 
 engraving, is the best for this purpose. Break 
 the eggs to be whisked, separating the yolks 
 
ELD 
 
 202 
 
 ELD 
 
 from the whites, and remove the speck from 
 each one with a three-pronged fork before com- 
 mencing to whisk. Beat the yolks till they 
 
 EGG WHISKS. 
 
 are light, and the whites to a strong solid froth. 
 Experience is the best guide for this culinary 
 process. No time can be specified, as much 
 depends on the steadiness of the person manipu- 
 lating. 
 
 ELDER. 
 
 The common elder-tree is found in all parts of 
 Britain. Its berries and flowers are much used, 
 as may be seen from the following recipes. We 
 may mention, in addition, that an odorous 
 water, used as a perfume, is prepared by dis- 
 tilling the flowers. Elder-wine is specially in 
 demand about Christmas time. It is generally 
 drunk hot or mulled. In some parts of Ger- 
 many, the poorer classes use the berries as an 
 ingredient in soup. 
 
 As a medicine, elderberry wine ranks very 
 high, possessing stimulating and aperient 
 qualities of great use in cases of kidney 
 disease and in instances where a profuse per- 
 spiration is desired. For medicinal purposes 
 the clear juice, called elder-rob, is used. The 
 flowers, too, are distilled and used in the 
 making of many medicines, whilst elder-flower 
 water as a cosmetic is famed through the ages, 
 many a stately dame with a reputation for 
 beauty owning to the use of this home-made 
 brew for the complexion. Elderberry pie is 
 eaten in the United States, and the berries, 
 when properly prepared, are very palatable and 
 delicious either in pies, jelly, or in a spiced 
 preserve. 
 
 Elderberries mixed with green grapes make 
 a piquant sauce, and if this fruit is mixed with 
 the elderberries when making pies a pleasing 
 and exceptionally palatable result will be 
 obtained. 
 
 ELDERBERRY BRANDY, 
 
 Pick the berries when fully ripe. Have ready 
 a press for drawing off the juice, and four hair- 
 cloths somewhat broader than the press ; put one 
 layer of berries above another, having a hair- 
 cloth between each layer, which must be laid 
 very thin and pressed a little at first, and then 
 more, till the press be drawn as close as possible. 
 Now take out the berries, and press all the rest 
 in like manner. Next take the pressed berries, 
 break out all the lumps, put them into an open- 
 headed vessel, and add as much liquor as will 
 just cover them. Let them infuse for seven or 
 eight days, then put the juice first drawn into 
 a cask proper for it to be kept in, and add two 
 gallons of malt spirits to every twenty gallons 
 of elder-juice, which will effectually preserve it 
 from becoming sour for two years at least. A 
 
 little sugar and a few cloves make a great im- 
 provement in the brandy. 
 
 ELDERBERRY KETCHUP, FOR FISH SAUCE. 
 
 Pick a pint of ripe elderberries from the 
 stalks, and put them into an earthen jar. Pour 
 over them a pint of boiling vinegar, and let 
 them remain in a cool oven all night. Strain 
 the liquor from the berries without squeezmg 
 them, and put it into a saucepan with an ounce 
 of shallots, a blade of mace, an inch of whole 
 ginger, a tea-spoonful of cloves, and a tea- 
 spoonful of peppercorns. Boil for six or eight 
 minutes, and bottle the ketchup, when cold, 
 with the spices. Sufficient for one pint and a 
 half of ketchup. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 ELDERBERRY PUNCH. 
 
 Put two bottles of elderberry wine into a 
 bowl, with a quarter of a pound of icing sugar 
 and three pints of boiling water. Mix well," 
 then add a lemon cut into slices, and grate 
 some nutmeg on top. Probable cost, 2s. 6d- 
 
 ELDERBERRY WINE. 
 
 Take quite ripe berries, and after stripping 
 them from the stalks, steep them for five or 
 six days in a tub of water, pressing them fre- 
 quently during the time. Squeeze out the 
 juice, and pass it through a fine sieve into the 
 vessel in which it is to be boiled; add to each 
 gallon three pounds of good brown sugar, and 
 to every four gallons half a pound of ginger, two 
 ounces of cloves, and an ounce or more of all- 
 spice. Boil for rather more than half an hour, 
 then pour the wine into a tub or open cask, 
 put with it some yeast on a piece of toast, and 
 cover it over to work for four or five days, at 
 the end of which time skim and remove it to the 
 cask to ferment. The vent-peg must be loose 
 until the fermentation has ceased, when the 
 cask may be tightly closed, and the wine, after 
 two months' rest, will be good, but better a 
 month or two later. A quart of brandy poured 
 into the barrel when it is about to be sealed up 
 will greatly improve the wine. 
 
 ELDERBERRY WINE (another way). 
 
 Boil twenty-five pounds of elderberries in 
 eleven gallons of water for one hour, and add 
 to them an ounce of allspice and two ounces of 
 ginger. When boiled the full time, allow four 
 pounds of sugar to a gallon ; put the sugar into 
 . a tub, and throw the boiling liquid over it, 
 straining and pressing all the juice from the 
 fruit. Add a quarter of a pound of cream of 
 tartar, and let the liquid stand in the same- 
 tub for two days ; then remove it to a cask, and 
 cover the bunghole with a tile. Stir the liquid 
 every alternate day, and fill up as it wastes. 
 When the fermentation has ceased, close up the 
 barrel, and when it has rested four months, 
 bottle for use. Brandy may be added when the 
 cask is closed. Probable cost, 3s. per gallon. 
 
 ELDER-FLOWER AND TARRAGON VINEGAR. 
 
 Fill a bottle with the elder-flowers, and pour 
 upon them as much vinegar as they will take; 
 let them rest for a fortnight, when the vinegar 
 may be strained and put into bottles of smaller 
 size. The fresh-gathered leaves of any sweet 
 herb may be infused, and their flavour extracted 
 in the same manner. 
 
ELE 
 
 203 
 
 END 
 
 ELECAMPANE. 
 
 The plant of this name was formerly much 
 cultivated by cottagers as an aromatic and 
 tonic, and the root stock of it is still used in a 
 candied form. The word is now generally ap- 
 plied to a candy flavoured with the root of the 
 plant 
 
 EMPRESS PUDDING. 
 
 Take equal quantities of powdered sugar ana 
 butter, about six ounces of each. Beat the but- 
 ter until it is of a creamy consistency, mix four 
 well-beaten yolks of eggs with it; add the 
 sugar, and whea the whole is well mixed, throw 
 in by degrees six ounces of flour, and beat all 
 thoroughly together. Bake in a brisk oven in 
 small cups; only half fill them, as the batter 
 will rise to the top in baking. Serve with cin- 
 namon sauce. Time, twenty minutes to bake. 
 Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for seven or eight 
 persons. 
 
 EMPRESS TOASTS. 
 
 Fry some small rounds of bread in hot lard 
 until of a golden colour, and spread with the 
 following mixture. Pound the meat from the 
 claw of one large lobster, with two boned an- 
 chovies, one ounce of butter, and one table- 
 spoonful of lemon-juice till quite smooth, and 
 arrange neatly on the croiitons. Sprinkle a 
 little cayenne pepper over, and make quite hot 
 in the oven. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 
 ENDIVE. 
 
 This plant has long been cultivated &s a 
 garden vegetable. The cut-leaved or "curled" 
 endive is preferred for the table in this country, 
 but the dwarf white Batavian endive is much 
 more delicate and agreeable to the palate. The 
 seed is usually sown in Britain from the aiddle 
 of May to the end of June, and by a little care 
 plants may be kept fit for use almost all the 
 winter. The leaves of endive should always 
 be blanched, as this renders them crisp and 
 tender and gives them a nice nutty flavour. 
 As soon as the heads are developed a large 
 flower-pot should be placed over them, taking 
 care to do this on a bright day, for if they 
 are damp the plants will rot. Straw must be 
 placed over each pot to exclude the light, and 
 in a few weeks the endive will be ready for 
 table. 
 ENDIVE, DRESSED. 
 
 There are many varieties of endive : the green 
 curled sort is principally used for salads. Those 
 who like the bitterness of this vegetable will 
 find it, when cooked according to the recipes 
 here given, a wholesome and agreeable change 
 during the summer. The green leaves may be 
 boiled like those of any other vegetable, only 
 changing the water twice to take off the bitter- 
 ness. After boiling till tender, throw the 
 endive into cold water for ten minutes ; then 
 squeeze out the water, and when dry chop and 
 stew with butter, gravy, or, like spinach, beat 
 it smooth, and serve round cutlets, or alone, 
 with bread sippets as a garnish. Time to boil, 
 half an hour. Probable cost. Id. to 2d. per 
 head. 
 ENDIVE, DRESSED, FOR SECOND COURSE. 
 
 Use salted water plentifully for this vege- 
 table. Plunge the heads, after removing the 
 
 green leaves, into it. When thoroughly free 
 from grit and insects, boil quickly, drain, and 
 finely chop them. Put a pint of good stock or 
 veal gravy into a stewpan, with half a dozen 
 heads so prepared ; add a tea-spoonful of 
 pounded sugar and a little salt, and stew till 
 tender. When ready to serve, thicken with 
 butter and flour, and stir in a table-spoonful of 
 lemon-juice, or add a little Espagnole sauce, 
 and serve with a fricandeau of veal; or with 
 poached eggs on. the top. Time, half an hour 
 to boil ; about five minutes to simmer in gravy. 
 Probable cost. Id. to 2d. per head. Sufficient 
 for three or four persons. . 
 
 ENDIVE (French methcd). 
 
 Take half a dozen heads of endive for a dish, 
 and cTioose those wMch are fresh and yellow. 
 Strip away the outer leaves, and cut off the 
 stalks to separate the other leaves, and wash 
 the endive in several watersi This vegetable 
 needs to be washed with scrupulous care, be- 
 cause it usually contains a good deal of, grit. 
 Throw the endive into a stewpan half filled with 
 boiling water slightly salted, leave the pan 
 uncovered, and boil quickly till it is tender. 
 The endive will take about twenty-five min- 
 utes. Drain it in a colander, press all the 
 moisture from it, and either chop it very finely 
 or rub it through a wire sieve. The latter 
 method is to be preferred. Melt half an ounce 
 of butter in a clean stewpan, mix half an ounce 
 of flour with it, beat it to a paste, add salt and 
 pepper, a tea-spoonful of white sugar, and a 
 gill of cream. Stir the sauce till smooth and 
 thick, put in the endive, and keep stirring till 
 the pulp is firm enough to be piled upon a 
 dish, then serve with fried sippets round it. 
 If liked, broth can be used instead of cream in 
 making the sauce for the endive. Time to boil 
 the vegetable, twenty-five minutes ; to stew 
 it with the sauce, about ten minutes. Prob- 
 able cost of endive, 2d. per head. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 
 ENDIVE SALAD. 
 
 Trim and wash well a good-sized endive, 
 divide into small pieces, drain and dry in a 
 cloth or salad basket, put it in a salad bowl, 
 season with pepper and salt, pour some salad 
 dressing over and mix thoroughly. This salad 
 can be mixed with finely-shredded celery, small 
 cress, or sprigs of water-cress if so preferred. 
 Probable cost, 8d. 
 
 ENDIVE, STEWED. 
 
 Strip off the outer green leaves from half a 
 dozen heads of endive. Use salted water plen- 
 tifully, to dislodge the insects; soak the heads 
 in it, then drain, and boil them twenty-five 
 minutes in water salted slightly. Have ready a 
 stewpan with an ounce of butter, and when the 
 endive has been squeezed dry and the butter 
 melted, put it into the pan, and add a salt- 
 spoonful of salt, pepper, and a gill of cream. 
 Let all get thoroughly hot, and move the con- 
 tents of the pan while heating. Probable cost. 
 Id. to 2d. per head. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 ENDIVE, WITH WINTER SALAD. 
 
 An ornamental and wholesome dish of salad 
 may be made in winter principally by the aid 
 
EPI 
 
 204 
 
 FA4 
 
 of this plant. Only a little cress, celery, and 
 beetroot will be necessary to form a striking 
 contrast to the crisp, blanched leaves of the 
 endive, which may be arranged in the centre, 
 or interspersed with the other materials through 
 the bowl. Endive may be had good from 
 November till March. 
 
 EPICUREAN SAUCE, 
 
 This is a good sauce for fish, added to melted 
 butter or any kind of gravy, and is made by 
 mixing with half a pint of walnut ketchup an 
 equal quantity of chilli vinegar, and adding a 
 pint and a half of mushroom ketchup and 
 three table-spoonfuls of Indian soy. Shake the 
 ingredients well together, and bottle for use. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 
 
 ESPAGNOLE SAUCE. 
 
 Melt two ounces of butter in » stewpan, cut 
 an onion into dice, cut one pound of knuckle 
 of veal, four ounces of lean ham, and half a 
 pound of shin of beef into small pieces, put 
 them into the stewpan with half a pint of stock, 
 and stir the mixture over a brisk fire for about 
 fifteen minutes, until it begins to thicken 
 and the meat to take colour. Then pour in 
 two and a half pints of stock, and bring the 
 whole to boiling point, simmer for three or 
 four minutes, and skim well. Cut a carrot 
 into dice, and add it to the contents of the 
 pan, along with two sprigs of parsley, one 
 sprig of thyme, twelve peppercorns, and half a 
 tea-spoonful of salt, and boil gently for forty 
 minutes. Melt two ounces of butter in a small 
 saucepan, dredge in two ounces of flour, and 
 stir it over the fire until it forms a smooth 
 thick brown roux ; add this gradually to the 
 sauce, stirring all the time, and simmer for 
 three or four minutes until the sauce is thick 
 and rich, then strain carefully, skim off every 
 particle of fat, and it is ready for use. Suf- 
 ficient for about one quart. Probable cost, 3s. 
 (jSee also Spanish Sauce.) 
 
 EVERTON TOFFEE. 
 
 Put one pound of brown sugar and one tea- 
 cupful of cold water into a pan well rubbed 
 with good fresh butter. Set it over a slow fire, 
 and boil until the sugar has become a smooth, 
 thick syrup, then stir into it half a pound of 
 butter, and boil for half an hour. When suf- 
 ficiently boiled, it may be tested by dropping 
 some on a plate, and if it dries hard and can 
 easily be removed, the toffee is ready for 
 flavouring. For this purpose, add twenty or 
 thirty drops of essence of lemon. Pour the 
 toffee into a wide, well-buttered dish. If liked, 
 vinegar may be substituted for the water, then 
 the lemon may be omitted. 
 
 EVERTON TOFFEE (another way). 
 
 Get one pound of treacle, the same quantity 
 of moist sugar, and half a pound of butter. Put 
 them into a saucepan large enough to allow of 
 fast boiling over a clear fire. Put in 
 the butter first, and rub it well over the 
 bottom of the saucepan; then add the treacle 
 and sugar, stirring together gently with a knife. 
 After the mixture has boiled for about ten 
 minutes, ascertain if it is done in the following 
 way. Have ready a basin of cold water, and 
 drop a little of the toffee into it from the point 
 
 of a knife. If it is sufficiently done, when you 
 take it from the water it will be quite crisp. 
 Now prepare a large shallow tin pan or dish, 
 rubbed all over with butter to prevent its adher- 
 ing, and into this pour the toffee from the sauce- 
 pan to get cold, when it can be easily removed. 
 To keep it good, it should be excluded from the 
 air. 
 
 EXETER PUDDING. 
 
 Beat up seven eggs with six ounces of moist 
 sugar and a quarter of a pint of rum. Take ten 
 ounces of bread-crumbs, seven ounces of finely- 
 shredded suet, and four ounces of sago; add 
 them gradually to the egg-mixture, with the 
 rind of a small lemon cut very delicately. Beat 
 all together, and when ready, butter a pudding- 
 mould, cover the bottom of it with ratafias, 
 and then put in some of the mixture. Next, 
 lay in slices of spongecake well spread with jam, 
 and again the ratafias, filling up alternately 
 with the mixture and slices of spongecake, but 
 finishing with the mixture on the top. Bake 
 in a rather quick oven. Make a sauce with a 
 quarter of a pound of black currant jelly, 
 warmed up with a couple of glasses of sherry. 
 Pour it warm over the pudding when turned 
 out of the mould, and serve hot. Time, an hour 
 and a quarter to bake. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 Sufiicient for seven or eight persons. 
 
 FAGGOTS, BAKED. 
 
 Make a mincemeat of calf's liver, or, if more 
 convenient, pig's liver and fresh fat pork, by 
 chopping very finely one pound and a half of 
 liver with half a pound of fresh fat pork. 
 Season the mince with onion, sage, thyme, salt, 
 and pepper. Steam it over boiling water, and 
 throw off all fat. When cold, add a large cup- 
 ful of bread-crumbs, and three well-beaten eggs ; 
 mix all together thoroughly, flavour with nut- 
 meg, and make up into round balls, which may 
 be baked in a buttered dish with a small quan- 
 tity of good gravy, or, as is often done, wrapped 
 separately in a piece of pig's caul. Either way 
 they should be of a pale brown, and cooked 
 very slowly. Time : to steam mincemeat, half 
 an hour; to bake, until done a pale brown. 
 
 FAIRY FANCIES. ' 
 
 For this pretty, fanciful pastry make first a 
 good short crust (see Cetjst, Shoet, Common). 
 When very thinly and evenly rolled out, cut 
 with a tin cutter, procured for the purpose, as 
 many sheets of crust as are required for the 
 foundation of the pastry, then, with a round 
 tin cutter of about an inch in diameter, and 
 another of half the size, make eight rings of 
 crust, and carefully place two — one of each size, 
 the largest at the bottom — on the four corners 
 of the foundation previously formed. The 
 rings should be brushed with white of egg to 
 make them adhere. Bake in a slow oven, as the 
 pastry should be of a pale tint. When cold, fill 
 each of the four rounds with differently-coloured 
 jams or jellies. The above may also be iced 
 with sugar, or made of almond paste, and the 
 rings coloured according to fancy, and filled 
 with whipped cream. 
 
FAM 
 
 205 
 
 FEN 
 
 FAMILY SOUP. 
 
 Peel and slice two pounds of potatoes, two 
 carrots, a turnip, and a middle-sized onion. Put 
 the onion into a frying-pan with two pounds of 
 shin of beef and half a pound of lean bacon also 
 sliced; add a small cabbage well chopped, and 
 fry till the meat is slightly browned. Drain 
 from the fat, put the meat and sliced vegetables 
 into a stewpan with two quarts of water, and 
 add, after it has simmered one hour, two quarts 
 more of water. Skim carefully before adding 
 the water, which should be poured in by de- 
 grees. When the vegetables are done, rul them 
 to a smooth pulp through a colander, and when 
 the meat has stewed three hours remove it from 
 the stewpan, and simmer the whole for some 
 time longer. Strain, thicken with the potato, 
 put the meat back cut up into small bits, and 
 serve hot with toasted sippets. Probable cost, 
 6d. per quart. Sufficient for twelve persons. 
 
 FANCHONETJES. 
 
 Put a lining of good puff paste round some 
 tartlet-pans, and fill with a custard. Make it 
 as follows. Beat four eggs till they are light, 
 stir into them two ounces of sugar and butter 
 (the butter must be beaten till it is like cream), 
 three-quarters of a pint of milk, and three 
 dessert-spoonfuls of flour. When thoroughly 
 mixed, simmer in a well-lined saucepan until 
 thick — the mixture should not boil — and flavour 
 with lemon, bitter almonds, or any essence pre- 
 ferred. When baked, slip the fanehonettes out 
 of the pans, and while they are cooling whisk 
 the whites of two eggs to a froth, and stir into 
 the froth two ounces of finely-powdered sugar, 
 with which mixture smooth the tops of the 
 -tartlets. This icing must be set for five min- 
 utes in the oven, but care must be taken to 
 prevent the tartlets from colouring. Send to 
 table on a white napkin garnished with coloured 
 jelly arranged between the tartlets and around 
 them. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Sufii- 
 cient to fill one dozen tartlets. 
 
 FAST-DAY SAUCE. 
 
 Use fish broth for this. Blend three table- 
 spoonfuls of flour with four ounces of good 
 butter, put it into a stewpan with about a pint 
 and a half of the broth, and heat it till it 
 thickens, but it should not boil. Boil in some 
 more broth an onion sliced, a head of celery, a 
 carrot, and some parsley, and when tender pour 
 in the butter and stew all together. Any addi- 
 tional flavouring may be added, and, il liked, 
 a little lemon-juice or vinegar — this last should 
 be white. Strain for use. If a brown sauce 
 hi required, the flour and butter should be 
 browned before the broth is added, and the 
 vegetables fried brown in butter. Time, about 
 fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 FAT OR MARROW PUDDING. 
 
 Eub stale bread through a wire sieve to make 
 half a pint of fine crumbs. Pour upon these a 
 pint and a half of. boiling milk, soak awhile, 
 then add, whilst still hot, four ounces of clari- 
 fied fat, four ounces of raisins, sugar and nut- 
 meg to taste. Beat the mixture till the fat is 
 melted, stir in four eggs, put the pudding 
 into a buttered mould, and boil it for three 
 hours. 
 
 FAT, TO CLARIFY. 
 
 Save all scraps of fat, cooked and uncooked. 
 Put them into a saucepan with a little water, 
 and boil till the fat is all melted. Strain 
 through a sieve into a basin, and pour over it a 
 little boiling water. All the impurities will 
 sink to the bottom, and the fat will cake on 
 the top as it cools. 
 
 FAWN, HASHED. 
 
 Stew half a dozen mushrooms and a shallot 
 in d pint of good gravy made from the trim- 
 mings of venison, or the remains of mutton 
 gravy. Season with pepper and salt. Lay 
 some nice slices of cold fawn in a stewpan with 
 gravy, let them get hot through, then add a 
 tea-spoonful each of lemon-juice and sugar, and 
 a glass of port wine. Let it stand for a few 
 minutes by the side of the fire, and serve hot. 
 Time, thirty minutes to stew mushrooms, etc., 
 five minutes to warm the slices. 
 
 FAWN, ROASTED. 
 
 The hind-quarter is the best, but a small fawn 
 may be roasted whole, larded, stuffed, and 
 trussed like a hare. Cover with a buttered 
 paper, and baste until half done, then remove 
 the larding and paper, and baste the meat 
 liberally till done. Serve with a sauce as fol- 
 lows. Take half a pint of mutton gravy, and 
 simmer any of the venison trimmings in it; 
 strain, and add a small pot of currant jelly, a 
 table-spoonful of powdered sugar, and a large 
 glass of port or claret. Serve hot in a tureen. 
 Time to roast fawn, one hour and a half; to 
 simmer gravy with jelly, etc., five minutes. 
 FENNEL. 
 
 Common fennel is a well-known biennial 
 plant cultivated in our gardens chiefly for its 
 leaves, which are boiled, and served up with 
 
 FAIRY FANCIES {seepage 204). 
 
 several kinds of fish, and especially with mack- 
 erel and salmon. Sometimes the leaves are 
 employed to form a fish-sauce. The species of 
 fennel known as sweet fennel is cultivated as a 
 pot-herb in Italy and Portugal, of which coun- 
 tries it. is a native. 
 
 FENNEL, PICKLED. 
 
 Fennel should be tied into bunches, and 
 put into a pan of boiling salted water. 
 When it has been scalded suflciently, it 
 should be spread out upon a cloth till dry. 
 When cold, fill glasses or bottles with the 
 fennel, which should then be covered with 
 
FEN r 
 
 206 
 
 FIG 
 
 cold vinegar. Add a little nutmeg and mace, 
 and tie down with a bladder and leather to keep 
 out the air. Time, three or four minutts. 
 
 FENNEL SAUCE. 
 
 Make some good melted butter in the pro- 
 portion of an ounce and a half of buttei:, a des- 
 sert-spoonful of flour, and a wine-glassful of 
 water. Blend the butter and flour together, 
 reserving a little of the butter to stir in after it 
 has thickened and been removed from the fire. 
 Chop enough of fennel to fill a table-spoon, ond 
 put it with the butter when it is on the point of 
 boiling. Do not let it boil, but simmer for a 
 minute or two, then remove, and stir in the re- 
 maining butter. Serve in a tureen. Probable 
 cost, 4d. Sufficient for five or six mackerel. 
 
 FIELDFARE. 
 
 This is a bird of the thrush tribe, which pays 
 an annual visit to these islands, coming from 
 the northern parts of Europe, where it exists 
 in great numbers. It is small in size, its whole 
 length being but ten inches. It makes its ap- 
 pearance about the beginning of November, 
 affords some sport to youthful sportsmen at 
 Christmas, and leaves us again about February 
 or March. 
 
 FIELDFARE PASTIES. 
 
 Take half a dozen birds — fieldfares, snipes, 
 woodcocks, quails, and young plovers — draw 
 them, and put th? insides into a stewpan with 
 a little butter, first taking out any grit from 
 the-gizzards. When they have steamed enough 
 in the butter (they should not brown) take them 
 out, and put the birds in to brown lightly. 
 Remove them; add a little more butter, and 
 stir in three or four eggs well beaten with 
 a. tea-cupful of milk. Have ready a forcemeat 
 of veal, bacon, and calf's liver, in the propor- 
 tion of one pound and a half of veal to half a, 
 pound of bacon, and the same of liver. Season 
 with pepper, salt, and spice. Stir this mince 
 into the stewpan, and when it is sufficiently 
 dressed, and thick enough, spread a layer over 
 the bottom of a dish, and when a sweetbread is 
 obtainable cut it, when boiled, into pieces the 
 size of a small nutmeg, and mix these with it. 
 The birds and their trails must now be laid on 
 ^fe forcemeat, with a sprinkling of salt and 
 pepper, and a good squeeze of leinou-juice ; the 
 rest should be laid upon them, and a cover of 
 paste over all. Bake in a good oven, and pour 
 in a little rich gravy with a funnel when done. 
 Time, three-quarters of an hour to one hour to 
 bake. Probable cost: snipes. Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. 
 the brace ; woodcocks, 3s. each ; quails. Is. to 
 2s. ; plovers. Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. the brace. 
 
 FIELDFARES, ROASTED. 
 
 These birds are trussed and roasted like a 
 partridge. When put before a bright fire, baste 
 well with butter or dripping, and froth nicely a 
 few minutes before serving. Send to table hot 
 on fried bread-crumbs, with a tureen of gravy, 
 and another of bread sauce. Time, from fifteen 
 to. twenty minutes. Fieldfares are seldom to be 
 bought. Sufficient for a dish, four. 
 
 FIG FRITTERS. 
 
 Cut some good moist figs into halves, put two 
 chopped cherries in each, and close them up 
 
 again. Dip them in batter made with cream and 
 eggs, and fry in boiling fat for three or four 
 minutes until brown. Serve with almond sauce 
 {see. Almond Satjce). Probable cost, 8d. 
 
 FIG PUDDING. 
 
 Take equal quantities of flour and bread- 
 crumbs, three ounces of each, shred two ounces 
 of suet very finely, mix together and add two 
 ounces of apples weighed after being pared and 
 chopped, four ounces of figs cut up small, and a 
 heaped table-spoonful of sugar, with sufficient 
 milk to make the paste firm, not wet. Put it 
 into a buttered mould, press closely together, 
 and tie down with a cloth. Steam for three 
 hours. Serve with wine sauce or melted butter. 
 Probable cost, 6d. Leave room for the pudding 
 to swell in the mould 
 FIG PUDDING (another way). 
 
 This pudding is often made like a roly-poly 
 jam pudding (see Eolt-poly Jam Pudding), 
 thus. Mix three-quarters of a pound of flour 
 and six ounces of finely-chopped suet into a 
 smooth paste with milk. Cut the figs — about 
 one pound — ^into bits, and put them over the 
 paste, which should be rolled out half an inch 
 thick. When doubled over, see that the paste 
 is firmly closed at the ends, and tie in a floured 
 cloth to boil. Time, nearly two hours. Probable 
 cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 FIG TART. 
 
 Slice some good figs, and put to them as much 
 milk as will just cover them. Cover witli a 
 plate and set in a moderate oven to stew a 
 little. Stir in a, srjall piece of butter, and 
 sugar to taste. Line some patty-p^ns with 
 puff paste, fill them with the figs, cover with 
 the dough, and bake in a hot oven for about 
 fifteen minutes. Probable cost, Is. 
 
 FIGS, GREEN, COMPOTE OF. 
 
 Boil one pound of sugar with a pint and a 
 half of water and the ri^id of half a lemon ; take 
 off the scum as it appears, and when it has 
 boiled a quarter of an hour, put in one pint and 
 a half of green figs, and simmer them very 
 slowly till tender, adding a little port winfe or 
 lemon-juice. Remove the figs, and boil the 
 syrup up quickly; pour it over the figs, and 
 when cold serve on a glass dish. Time, two to 
 three hours to stew the figs. Probable cost, 
 2s. to 3s. per dozen. 
 FIGS, PRESERVED. 
 
 Take small green figs, wipe, and put them into 
 cold water; Ao, this in the morning, and the 
 next day simmer them till tender. Put them 
 into cold water for three days, changing it 
 each day. Try if they are soft enough for a 
 pin's head to pierce them easily ; if so, weigh 
 them, and to each pound of fruit allow a pound 
 of sugar. Clarify the sugar, and put the figs 
 into it while it is hot. Simmer for ten or 
 twelve minutes. In a couple of days add the 
 thin rind of a lemon and a little ginger to the 
 syrup, and heat the figs in it again; do this 
 twice, divide the figs into halves, and put them, 
 in their syrup, into pots. Tie down closely. 
 
 FIGS, STEWED. 
 
 Dissolve in an enamelled saucepan a quarter 
 of a pound of fine sugar with a pint of cold 
 
FIG 
 
 207 
 
 FiS 
 
 water ; add to it anything to flavour — orange, 
 lemon, or almond, if preferred. Put into this 
 one pound of the best Turkey figa, let them 
 have very little heat, so that they may swell ; 
 if properly done this compote will be excellent, 
 but the figs must be stewed very slowly, and 
 when tender, a glass or two of port wine and a 
 little lemon-juice should be added. When 
 eaten hot, serve with a border of rice ; when 
 cold, send to table on a glass dish. ■ The thin 
 rind of a large lemon boiled with the figs will 
 flavour this dish well. Time, about two hours 
 and a half to stew gently. 
 
 FICSS, STEWED, AND CUSTARD. 
 
 Take one pound of flgs, and stew them slowly 
 for one hour in just sufficient water to cover 
 them, along with a strip of lemon-peel, two 
 ounces of sugar, and a glass of sherry. The 
 juice should then be rich and rather thick, 
 and the figs, if properly cooked, should be 
 smaller and perfectly soft, but not broken up. 
 For very dry fruit it is a good plan to soak 
 it for some time in water. Serve the figs with 
 custard in cups, with a spoonful of whipped 
 white of egg on top. 
 
 FINDON OR " FINNAN " HADDOCKS. 
 
 These haddocks are held in great esteem for 
 their peculiar and delicate flavour. The genu- 
 ine Finnan may be known by its odour and 
 creamy yellow colour. Strip off the skin, and 
 broil before the fire or over a quick, clear one. 
 
 FISH CAKES {see 
 
 Rub the fish over with butter, and serve hot. 
 Some persons prefer to cut them in pieces and 
 steam them in a basin of boiling water or milk. 
 Heat the basin first, pour boiling water or milk 
 on them, and cover closely with a plate ; if kept 
 on a hot stove, they will require from ten to 
 fifteen minutes, and when drained, should be 
 placed on a hot dish and rubbed over with 
 butter. Serve hot. Excellent as a breakfast 
 relish. 
 
 FINDON HADDOCKS, FRIED. 
 
 Bub butter or oil on both sides of the fish, 
 and put it into a frying-pan smeared with 
 either. Shake the pan over a clear fire. In 
 three or four minutes the fish will be sufficiently 
 done. Serve hot, with a little more butter 
 rubbed over. Probable cost, 6d. to Is. 
 
 FINDON HADDOCKS, GRILLED. 
 
 Rub the gridiron with a small piece of suet, 
 and brush the haddock over with a little melted 
 butter. Grill it in front of or over a clear 
 
 fire for four or five minutes on each side. Put 
 it on a hot dish, spread a piece of butter over 
 it, and serve at once. 
 FINDON HADDOCKS ON TOAST. 
 
 Plunge a haddock into boiling water for five 
 or six minutes, strip off all the meat, minoe it 
 finely, then put it into a stewpan with one 
 ounce of butter and plenty of pepper. Let it 
 get thoroughly hot, then spread it on rounds of 
 hot buttered toast. 
 FINGER BISCUITS. 
 
 Take six eggs, and divide the yolks from the 
 whites. Beat up the yolks with half a pound 
 of fine sugar ; mix for five minutes, and add the 
 whites, well whipped, with five ounces of flour. 
 Flavour with vanilla, lemon, or orange-flower 
 water. Make a pasteboard funnel, fill it with 
 the paste, and press the biscuits through the 
 aperture at the end, which should be cut to 
 about three-quarters of an inch in diameter. 
 Make the biscuits in the shape of a finger, and 
 a))Out three inches long. Drop them on a 
 baking-sheet in straight lines. Sprinkle finely- 
 sifted sugar over them, and bake in a moderate 
 oven. They should be a light yellow colour. 
 Time, ten to fifteen minutes to bake. Prob- 
 able cost of this quantity. Is. 
 FINGER PUDDING. 
 
 Blanch and peel six ounces of almonds, and 
 pound them in a mortar, adding by degrees 
 one gill of milk. Beat up to a cream six egg- 
 yolks with six ounces of castor sugar. When 
 sufficiently beaten add to it the almond milk, 
 with one tea-spoonful of ground cinnamon, one 
 tea-spoonful of grated lemon-rind, and a pinch 
 of ground cloves. Whisk the whites of six 
 eggs to a stiff froth, melt three ounces of but- 
 ter, and stir both alternately, in small quan- 
 tities, into the above mixture. Lastly, add 
 two ounces of crushed finger biscuits. Three- 
 parts, fill a well-buttered mould. Steam this in 
 the Liisual way for about an hour, turn out on a 
 hot dish, and serve at once, along with a suit- 
 able sweet sauce (see Sweet Sauce for Pud- 
 dings). Probable cost, 2s. 
 FISH AND EGGS. 
 
 Take any nice pieces of cold cooked fish, heat 
 v,-ell in boiling water, and drain thoroughly. 
 Boil three eggs hard, shell them, and cut them 
 into four lengthwise. Take some cold pota- 
 toes, and cut about two dozen slices. Melt 
 three ounces of butter, and add to it a tea- 
 spoonful of made mustard, the same of vinegar 
 and of Harvey's sauce, and season with salt 
 and pepper. Arrange the pieces of fish, and 
 the slices of eggs and potatoes in a fireproof 
 dish, pour the sauce over, and put into an oven 
 until thoroughly hot. Probable cost. Is. 
 FISH AND OYSTER PIE. 
 
 Make u seasoning of bread-crumbs, pepper, 
 salt, nutmeg, and parsley chopped fine. Lay 
 any remains of cold fish into a pie-dish; let 
 them be neatly cut into scallops, and cleared 
 from all skin and bone; sprinkle with pepper 
 and salt. Make a layer of oysters, and cover 
 with the seasoning. Fill up the dish with 
 alternate layers of fish, oysters, and seasoning. 
 Cover with bars of puff paste, and bake, pour- 
 ing in melted butter dissolved with the liquor 
 
FIS 
 
 208 
 
 FIS 
 
 of the oysters. Time, according to size. When 
 the pastry is done the pie will be ready for 
 serving. 
 
 FISH (au Gratrn). 
 
 Remove all bones and skin from six ounces 
 of cold fish, and divide it into small pieces. 
 Make a quarter of a pint of white sauce, stir 
 the fish into the hot sauce, and let it heat 
 gently for ten minutes, then turn it into a 
 fireproof dish which has been well buttered. 
 Mix one ounce of grated cheese with one ounce 
 of fresh bread-crumbs, sprinkle them over the 
 fish, dot half an ounce of butter in small pieces 
 on top, season with pepper and salt, and bake 
 in a fireproof dish in a gentle oven until the 
 top is lightly browned. Serve in the dish it is 
 cooked in, placed on a folded napkin. 
 
 FISH, BAKED IN MILK. 
 
 Take some fillets of sole or plaice, or a slice 
 of cod, halibut, brill, etc., or a whiting or 
 small fresh haddock. Clean and dry the fish, 
 lay it in a buttered baking-tin or pie-dish, pour 
 over it as much milk as will moisten it, and 
 season to taste. Cover the dish with a sheet 
 of white buttered paper, and bake in a mod- 
 erate oven till done. Add more milk after a 
 few minutes' baking, sufficient wherewith to 
 make a little sauce to accompany the fish. 
 
 FISH BALLS. 
 
 Shred finely one pound of cold cooked fish, 
 from which all skin and bone have been re- 
 moved. Take double the quantity of cold 
 mashed potatoes and mix them with the fish. 
 Add a table-spoonful of melted butter and a 
 well-beaten egg. Form into round balls, or 
 thick flat cakes, flour lightly, and fry till brown 
 in boiling fat or lard. 
 
 FISH CAKES. 
 
 Make a savoury gravy, by boiling down the 
 heads, tails, fins, and bones of any fish, with 
 water enough to cover them. Add an onion, 
 a tea-spoonful of mixed herbs, pepper, salt, and 
 a very little mace. With the meat, when well 
 minced, mix a third part of the quantity of 
 bread-crumbs, and a flavouring of the same 
 kind as that used for gravy. Moisten with 
 melted butter, and bind with white of egg. 
 Cover this cake with raspings, and fry with a 
 plate over it in butter till of a light brown. 
 When the gravy has been strained from the trim- 
 mings, put it, with the cake, into a stewpan, 
 cover close, and stew gently for a quarter of 
 an hour. Time, eight to ten minutes to fry. 
 
 FISH CAKES (anoVner way). 
 
 Take while warm the fish left from dinner, 
 remove the skin and bones, and mix with 
 mashed potatoes. Add pepper, salt, chopped 
 parsley, and an ounce of butter. Moisten with 
 an egg into a paste, and roll into balls ; then 
 flatten and dip into egg. Fry in butter or lard 
 to a nice brown. Time, three-quarters of an 
 hour to prepare. 
 
 FISH, COLD, TO RE-DRESS. 
 
 Put any cold fish — turbot, brill, soles, whit- 
 ing, or smelt — cut small, into escallop-shells, 
 •with bread-crumbs and some good fish sauce — • 
 oyster, lobster, or shrimp. Place the shells in 
 a Dutch oven, and cook until browned. Put a 
 
 little butter on the top of each. Time, fifteen 
 to twenty minxites. 
 FISH, CREAMED. 
 
 Take a haddock or whiting, or any other white 
 fish that will flake easily. Gently boil it for 
 fifteen or twenty minutes, then remove the 
 flesh carefully from the bones, breaking it separ- 
 ately into flakes; season with pepper and salt 
 and a few drops of lemon-juice. For every pound 
 of prepared fish make a rich melted butter 
 sauce with four table-spoonfuls of butter, two 
 of flour, and a pint of milk in which a small 
 slice of onion has been boiled. Put the fish 
 into a fireproof dish, pour the sauce gently 
 over. Sprinkle the top with bread-crumbs and 
 small flecks of butter, and bake in a hot oven 
 for twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. 
 
 FISH, CROQUETTES OF. 
 
 Mix over the fire a tea-spoonful of flour, an 
 ounce of butter, and half a gill of cream. Take 
 off the fire, and add the yolk of an egg, a little 
 seasoning, and half a pound of cold dressed fish 
 beaten to a paste. Let the mixture cool, and 
 form it into balls, let these be egged and 
 breaded. Fry to a nice brown in hot fat, and 
 serve with gravy, made by boiling down the 
 bones, fins, and tails with an onion. Add an 
 anchovy and seasoning to taste. Probable cost 
 of this quantity, exclusive of cold fish, 4d. 
 
 FISH CURRY. 
 
 Cut cod, haddock, sole, or salmon into neat 
 fillets. If salted for a few hours the fish will 
 be better and firmer. Drain, dry, and fry the 
 fillets for five minutes. Fry also in butter two 
 onions and a shallot cut small. When tender rub 
 them through a sieve, mix with the pulp a table- 
 spoonful of curry paste, a tea-spoonful of ground 
 rice, and as much stock as is required. Boil 
 the sauce till thick, put in the fish, and simmer 
 it till done enough. When ready to serve, throw 
 in a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and send to 
 table with rice as an accompaniment. Prob- 
 able cost, exclusive of fish, 6d. 
 FISH CUTLETS. 
 
 Cutlets may be cut from almost any white 
 fish; they may be cooked or raw. Put a quan- 
 tity of chopped herbs, a bit of shallot, and a 
 seasoning of pepper and salt, into a stewpan 
 with two ounces of butter. Stir in a tea-spoon- 
 ful of essence of anchovies, and as soon as the 
 butter is melted remove from the fire to cool. 
 Lay the seasoning over the cutlets thickly, and 
 powder them well with fine bread-crumbs. 
 They may be cooked before the fire, or in an 
 oven on buttered pans. Have ready some green 
 vegetables stewed in good broth; silver button- 
 onions or anything that is in season may be 
 used. Put the vegetables in the centre of the 
 dish, and arrange the cutlets round. Time to 
 stew vegetables, about a quarter of an hour. 
 Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of fish. 
 FISH EGGS, SCRAMBLED. 
 
 Beat up three eggs, add a table-spoonful of 
 milk or cream, and season to taste. Melt two 
 ounces of butter in a saucepan, add about three 
 ounces of cooked fish, flaked, and fry for a few 
 seconds. Stir in the eggs, etc., and keep stir- 
 ring over the fire until the mixture begins to 
 thicken. Have some slices of hot buttered 
 
FIS 
 
 209 
 
 FIS 
 
 toast ready, lay the mixture on them, and serve 
 on hot plates. Probable cost. Is. 
 FISH (en Matelote 
 
 Fish may be served en matelote either whole 
 or divided. Trout, pike, carp, tench, eels, etc., 
 are good cooked in this way. Put an ounce of 
 butter into a stewpan, and brown a dozen but- 
 ton-onions that have been scalded. Put in the 
 fish, and add a half pint of gravy or stock, a 
 glass of red wine, pepper, salt, allspice, a bay- 
 leaf, and a carrot and turnip cut into slices. 
 Take out the fish, thicken the gravy with flour 
 and butter, and add mushrooms, the button- 
 onions nicely browned, some oysters bearded 
 and scalded, and small fish quenelles. Season 
 to taste with anchovy, cayenne, and lemon- 
 juice, and pour the gravy boiling hot over the 
 fish. Time, three-quarters of an hour. 
 FISH, ESSENCE OF. 
 
 This is made by boiling fresh fish in stock 
 with herbs and vegetables till its fiavour is ex- 
 tracted. Fish gravy for making fish sauces 
 andl moistening fish patties may be made by 
 stewing in as much water aa will cover them the 
 bones, fins, and trimmings of fish which has 
 been filleted before being cooked. The stock 
 may be flavoured with vegetables and herbs, 
 and should be freed from fat before being used. 
 FISH, FAT FOR FRYING. 
 
 Butter and lard are the materials mostly in 
 use for this mode of cooiing in England; oil 
 and clarified skimmings are also used. On the 
 Continent, where nothing else but oil is used, 
 fried dishes are more delicate, and in appear- 
 ance superior to those cooked with any other 
 fatty substance. Butter, lard, dripping, or oil 
 may be used for the same purpose two or three 
 times, if care be taken not to burn it during 
 the frying, and carefully to strain it into clean 
 pots or jars. (See Fet, To.) 
 FISH, FORCEMEAT FOR. 
 
 Choj) the remains of any shell-fish^ — lobster, 
 crab, etc. — with the yolks of two hard-boiled 
 eggs ; add a little minced parsley, and the same 
 quantity of bread-crumbs as of fish. Pound 
 alJ in a mortar, with two ounces of butter, a, 
 tea-spoonful of salt, half the quantity of pep- 
 per, and a flavouring of nutmeg. Stuff any 
 white fish with this forcemeat, mixing it well 
 with the beaten yolk of an egg. [See also 
 Otstebs, Forcemeat or.) 
 
 FISH, FRICANDELLES. 
 
 Pour milk or wine on the crumb of a French 
 roll, enough to soak it. Cut one pound of 
 cooked or raw fish without skin or bone, and a 
 couple of anchovies, into small bits. Season 
 with mace, cayenne, and nutmeg. Beat the 
 yolks of two eggs with the roll, and then add 
 the fish. Mix a little cream, and warm it 
 carefully. Have ready a, buttered mould, fill 
 it with the, fish, and cover with bread-crumbs. 
 Make hot in the oven, and brown with a 
 salamander or red-hot shovel. 
 FISH, FRIED. 
 
 Fish to be nicely fried should be wiped very 
 
 dry, and floured before being put into the pan 
 
 of boiling fat. Next to oil, clarified dripping 
 
 is the best. Shake the pan gently until hot 
 
 
 
 through. If you want the fish to look very 
 nice, dip it into egg, and sprinkle with bread- 
 crumbs before frying. Drain before the fire, 
 and dish on a hot napkin. The time required 
 for this mode of cooking will vary according 
 to the size, quality, and thickness of the fish. 
 [See Fey, To.) 
 
 FISH, FRIED (Jewish fashion). 
 
 The Jews, like our Continental neighbours, 
 use oil for frying instead of lard. Soyer gives 
 the following excellent recipe for cooking fish. 
 Lay one or more pounds of halibut in a dish, 
 with salt over the top, and water not to cover 
 the fish. Let it stay one hour for the salt to 
 penetrate. Drain and dry it; then cut out the 
 bone, and take off the fins. Divide the pieces 
 into slices half an inch thick. Put a quarter 
 of a pound of oil, butter, or dripping into a 
 frying-pan. Dip the fish into a batter, and 
 fry till the pieces are of a nice colour, and all 
 sides alike. When quite done, take them out 
 with a slicer, drain, and serve with any sauce 
 liked. All fish, especially those containing oil, 
 are improved by this method — the oil is ab- 
 sorbed by the batter. 
 
 FISH GRAVY, 
 
 Put into a saucepan a piece of butter, a few 
 slices of onion, and a carrot cut in pieces; 
 then add the remains and bones of any fish. 
 Let the vegetables simmer without burning, 
 moisten with a little white stock, and when it 
 boils thicken it with a little arrowroot or white 
 roux (see Eoux, White) to the desired consist- 
 ency. Probable cost, 8d. 
 
 FISH, GRILLED. 
 
 Small thin fish, or large fish divided into 
 slices or fillets, are excellent when grilled. This 
 method of cooking is particularly suitable for 
 fish to be served at breakfast. Slices of salmon, 
 cod, or sturgeon, trout, red mullet, herrings 
 fresh and dried, haddock, whiting, filleted sole 
 or mackerel, the small soles called " slips," and 
 the small plaice called " dabs " may all be 
 grilled, and thus cooked will be tasty and well 
 flavoured. The flsh should first be thoroughly 
 dried, then rubbed all over with oil, and sea- 
 soned with pepper and salt. Occasionally a 
 little chopped parsley is added to the seasoning. 
 The oil will keep the fish from becoming dry 
 whilst it is being cooked. Be careful to have a 
 clear bright fire for grilling fish. Make the 
 gridiron hot on both sides, and rub it well with 
 mutton fat, to keep the fish from sticking. 
 Place it upon the bars, keep moving it about, 
 and turn it occasionally, that it may be equally 
 cooked on both sides. When it is done through 
 and is lightly browned all over it is ready to 
 serve. Sometimes fish that is to be grilled is 
 floured after it is oiled, and this helps to give 
 it a good colour. When it is wished that the 
 fish should be^ very delicately prepared it is 
 wrapped in well oiled paper, but this method 
 requires care or the paper may burn or become 
 dirty and unsightly. Broiled fish may either 
 be served without sauce, or piquant sauce may 
 be sent to table with it. 
 FISH, JELLY FOR. 
 
 Boil down a skate, cow-heel, or calf's foot, in 
 three pints of water, until it is reduced to a 
 
FIS 
 
 210 
 
 FIS 
 
 quart Skim it carefully, strain it, and boil it 
 again with a small onion stuck with one or two 
 cloves, a slice of ham, a little parsley, and half 
 en anchovy pounded in butter. When it is 
 nicely flavoured pour it off, remove the fat, and 
 it it is not sufficiently clear clarify it with 
 white of egg. A glassful of sherry may be 
 added or not. It will be fit for use when cold, 
 £nd should be laid over the fish roughly. Prob- 
 able cost, about Is. for this quantity. 
 FISH KEDGEREE. 
 
 Pick some cooked salmon, turbot, or other 
 fish into flakes, and boil a cupful of rice in 
 good white broth; add the fish to the rice, and 
 when hot through, stir in an egg, and serve. 
 Time, thirty minutes to boil the rice. Probable 
 cost, exclusive of fish, 4d. 
 
 FISH KETCHUP. 
 
 Pick out the meat from a hen lobster; 
 one that is full of spawn, and weighs about 
 three pounds. Pound the coral and add it to 
 the meat, with a small tea-spoonful of cay- 
 enne, the same of salt, and a wine-glassful of 
 sherry. When well pounded in a mortar to- 
 gether, add the i^emainder of the wine, or as 
 much as is necessary. If put into bottles, and 
 the air is kept out of them, the ketchup will 
 keep good for twelve months, and any quantity 
 may be used heated in melted butter. From 
 three to four table-spoonfuls will be enough for 
 a large tureen of melted butter. 
 FISH MACARONI. 
 
 Take two pounds of cod, parboil it, cut it into 
 small pieces, and remove all bones and skin. 
 Add two sticks of macaroni, previously boiled, 
 and broken into one-inch pieces, two ounces of 
 gfrated cheese, and pepper and salt to taste. 
 Mix all well together, and put into a fireproof 
 dish. Grate some cheese over it, and put some 
 bread-crumbs on top, with a few dabs of butter. 
 Bake in a moderate oven until it turns brown, 
 which will be in about fifteen minutes. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 4d. 
 
 FISH MAIGRE, TO DRESS. 
 
 Take boiling water, but only just enough to 
 cover the fish, and let it simmer steadily till the 
 fish is done, adding a small tea-spoonful of 
 peppercorns, six or eight allspice, and two 
 middle-sized onions, each stuck with two cloves. 
 With the liquor, when strained, put as much 
 flour and butter as will make it of the consis- 
 tency of milk; flavour with wine, and any 
 sauce — mushroom or anchovy — and season with 
 salt, pepper, and cayenne. To each pint of 
 sauce put a glass of wine, a small spoonful of 
 ketchup, a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce, and 
 a few grains of cayenne. This sauce, after it 
 has simmered a few minutes, should be strained 
 over the fish, which must be served on a deep 
 dish. Garnish with isippets of bread, fried. 
 Time, from ten to twenty minutes to simmer, 
 according to the size of the fish. 
 FISH, MARINADE FOR. 
 
 Fry in butter half a dozen shallots, three 
 middle-sized onions, a couple of carrots, a bunch 
 of parsley, a bundle of sweet herbs, and a clove 
 of garlic. Cut the carrots, shallots, and onions 
 small; pick and mince the herbs. When they 
 have simmered in the butter five or six minutes. 
 
 pour in any light wine or cider — about three 
 pints — and add a dessert-spoonful of pepper- 
 corns, the same of allspice, and two cloves. 
 When the mixture has simmered for one hour 
 and a half, strain for use. Insipid fish boiled 
 in this marinade will acquire a flavour of a very 
 agreeable kind, and the bones of small fish are 
 rendered soft and eatable if gently stewed in it. 
 Large fish should be cut into steaks ; and if, 
 after use, the marinade be carefully strained, it 
 will serve several times. The expense, too, may 
 be much lessened by using diluted vinegar, with 
 the addition of a table-spoonful of Worcester 
 sauce, and the same of essence of anchovy and 
 ketchup, in place of light wine or cider., (See also 
 Mabinade fob Fish.) 
 
 fish omelet. 
 
 Break three eggs into a basin ; add a table- 
 spoonful of milk and a dessert-spoonful of 
 grated cheese; beat them well together, and 
 season with pepper and salt. Melt one ounce 
 of butter in an omelet- or frying-pan, and add 
 to it about two ounces of cold fish flaked ; let it 
 fry a little, and pour in the egg mixture; stir 
 over a quick fire until it begins to set. EoU 
 the omelet into the shape of an oval cushion 
 towards the side of the pan, and when it ac- 
 quires a golden colour turn it out on to a hot 
 dish. Probable cost, 8d. 
 
 FISH pAt£ 
 
 Pick from the shell of a crab all :hat is good ; 
 pound it in a mortar with a small quantity of 
 bread-crumbs, and a seasoning of white pepper, 
 cayenne, salt, and nutmeg; add a very little 
 gravy, which thicken with butter rolled in flour. 
 Slake it hot, and squeeze in a little lemon-juice. 
 Have ready a wall of mashed potatoes round 
 the inner rim of a flat dish ; let it be two and 
 a half inches high. Smooth and ornament it 
 with leaves, flowers, or according to taste ; this 
 can be done with a tin-cutter, and if egged and 
 browned in the oven will have a very pretty 
 appearance. Fill the centre with the fricassee, 
 and brown with a, salamander. Small patties 
 may be made, and filled with this fricassee. 
 Time, one hour to prepare potatoes. Sufacient, 
 one pound for three persons. 
 
 FISH, PICKLED. 
 
 Any boiled fish may be kept good for another 
 meal by simply mixing equal quantities of the 
 water in which it was boiled and vinegar, to- 
 gether with an onion sliced, some fresh fennel, 
 pepper, and salt. Put the fish into a deep 
 dish, and pour the pickle over it. Baste fre- 
 quently, that it may be well moistened. It will 
 keep good several days in cold weather. 
 
 FISH, PICKLED (another way). 
 
 Make a pickle of boiling water and salt, 
 strong enough to bear an egg. Plunge into 
 this the fish to be pickled. Let it be well 
 cleaned and trimmed, but the scales must not 
 be removed, and there must be only just enough 
 of the pickle to cover it. Be careful not to 
 boil too much. Drain by placing it on a slant- 
 ing board; and when cold pack it close, and 
 fill an earthenware vessel with equal parts of 
 the liquor the salmon or other fish was boiled 
 in, and the best vinegar. Fill up again next 
 day, and close the vessel. 
 
FIS 
 
 211 
 
 FIS 
 
 FISH PIE. 
 
 Fish pies are best made with cooked fish. 
 Take turbot, salmon, brill, haddock, trout, or 
 any kind of fish; strip off the skin and remove 
 the bones. Cut the flesh in large scallops, cover 
 ths bottom of the dish with bechamel sauce, 
 and on this place the fish in layers, seasoning 
 each layer with pepper, salt, nutmeg, chopped 
 mushrooms, shallot, parsley, and hard-boiled 
 eggs; pour in a little more sauce, and fill up 
 with the fish and seasoning! Cover with pun 
 paste. Time, three-quarters of an hour to 
 bake. 
 
 FISH PIE (another way). 
 
 Take flounders, clean and dry them well in a 
 cloth, boil, and separate the fish from the bones. 
 Boil the bones in a saucepan with a pint of the 
 water which was used for the fish, a bit of 
 parsley, lemon-peel, pepper, and salt. When re- 
 dxiced to the quantity required for gravy, make 
 a crust and line a pie-dish. Put some bits of 
 butter in the bottom of the dish, then a layer 
 of fish, strew chopped parsley, and sprinkle with 
 flour, pepper, and salt. Proceed until the dish 
 is full, pour in the gravy, and bake with a 
 top crust. Time, about three-quarters of an 
 hour to bake. 
 
 FISH PUDDING. 
 
 Pound in a mortar the flesh of two raw had- 
 docks, cleared from skin and bone, pass it 
 through a sieve, mixing a very little good gravy 
 with it. Pound also an onion, a little parsley, a 
 few bread-crumbs, and a quarter of a pound of 
 veal suet; moisten with a couple of eggs, and 
 season with pepper and salt. Beat these ingre- 
 dients well into the pounded fish. When well 
 mixed, boil the pudding in a mould, and send 
 to table with a rich brown sauce. Eel pudding, 
 with the addition of oysters, is excellent. It 
 may be boiled in paste, and served with a sauce 
 in the dish, or boiled in a mould and served with 
 sauce in a tureen. Time, one hour to boil. 
 Probable cost. Is. each. 
 
 FISH PUDDING, PLAIN. 
 
 Line a pudding-basin with ordinary pudding 
 paste; cut a pound of cod, or any other fish 
 liked, into pieces, season with salt, pepper, a 
 very little chopped parsley, and onion, moisten 
 with stock, cover with a, crust, and boil in the 
 usiial way; add fish sauce to taste. Serve hot. 
 Time, one hour to boil. Sufficient for two 
 persons. 
 
 FISH RAGOUT IN SCALLOP-SHELLS. 
 
 Dissolve a piece of butter in a stewpan, and 
 put into it any uncooked fish, well cleared from 
 skin and bone, and cut into small dice, but not 
 mashed; add salt and lemon-juice, and stew 
 very gently till done ; then have ready a sauce 
 composed of the following ingredients: — Some 
 good gravy, a glassful of white wine, a little 
 cayenne pepper, grated lemon-peel, ginger, and 
 nutmeg. Thicken the sauce with flour and but- 
 ter, and stir till quite dense ; then put in the 
 fish, and stir in the yolks of three eggs and a 
 little anchovy butter. Put this ragout into 
 scallop-shells with a covering of bread-crumbs 
 and Parmesan cheese. Pour a little oiled but- 
 ter over and bake to a pale brown. Time, ten 
 minutes to bake. 
 
 FISH RifCHAUFFE. 
 
 Take any fish, cooked, free from skin and 
 bones, flake it, and to every pound add half 
 a pint of cream, and one small spoonful each 
 of Worcester sauce, mushroom ketchup, essence 
 of anchovy, and mustard. Thicken the sauce 
 with butter rolled in flour, and sprinkle with salt 
 and pepper. Put the fish and the sauce into a 
 stewpan, and when hot place it carefully on a 
 dish ; cover with bread-crumbs, and baste with 
 butter for a few minutes while it is before the 
 fire. Brown with a salamander, or raise a wall 
 of mashed potatoes round the dish, two and a 
 half inches high, and place the ragout in the 
 centre. Pike, cod, turbot, soles, and haddock 
 do well for this dish. 
 
 FISH, RISSOLES OF. 
 
 To any quantity or kind of cold cooked fish, 
 weighed after the bones and skin have been 
 removed, add a third part of grated bread- 
 crumbs, a finely-minced boiled onion, some cold 
 melted butter, and the yolks of two eggs; sea- 
 son with pepper and salt. Make puff paste, 
 roll it thin, and cut it into squares of two 
 inches. Place about a tea-spoonful of the mince 
 on each square, and fold over with paste. Wet 
 the edges of the dough, before closing them, 
 that they may adhere, and fry in boiling fat, 
 first egging and covering the rissoles with 
 bread-crumbs. Garnish with fried parsley. 
 Time, fry till lightly browned. Probable cost» 
 8d., exclusive of the flsh. 
 
 FISH, RISSOLES OF (another way). 
 
 Remove the skin and bone from four ounces of 
 cold fish, and mince it finely. Mix with it half 
 a pound of mashed potatoes, season with pep- 
 per and salt, add a squeeze of lemon and one 
 egg well beaten and strained, and stir all well 
 together. Form the mixture neatly into the 
 shape of small cutlets, flour them, and fry them 
 in boiling fat to a light golden brown. Drain 
 on kitchen paper, and serve on a hot napkin, 
 garnished with parsley. 
 
 FISH SALAD. 
 
 This consists of cold fish of any kind, mixed 
 with well dried salad, pickled gherkins, or any 
 other green pickle. Oysters or shrimps may be 
 added to the other fish, which should be separ- 
 ated neatly into flakes, and the whole should be 
 moistened with a salad cream. Garnish with 
 slices of lemon and some parsley. 
 
 FISH (SALT), BOILED. 
 
 Soak two pounds of salt fish in cold water for 
 twelve hours before using. Then put it into 
 plenty of cold water, bring it slowly to the boil, 
 and simmer very gently until cooked. Serve 
 garnished with fresh parsley, and send egg sauce 
 to table with it. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 FISH (SALT) PIE. 
 
 Take a thick piece of salt fish, and let it 
 soak in cold water overnight. Boil it well, 
 take it up, remove the bones and skin, and set 
 it on a fish-drainer to get cold. Boil four eggs 
 hard, shell them and slice them very thin; 
 slice the same quantity of onions very thin; 
 line the bottom of a pie-dish with a layer 
 of potatoes also thinly sliced, then a layer of 
 onions, then of fish, then of eggs, and so on in 
 
FIS 
 
 212 
 
 FIS 
 
 rotation until the dish is full, seitsoning each 
 layer with a little pepper. Mix a tea-spoonful 
 of made mustard, the same of essence of an- 
 chovy, and a little ketchup in a gill of cold 
 water, pour this over the contents, put on top 
 one ounce of butter broken into small bits; 
 cover with puff paste, and bake for one hour. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 
 
 FISH SANDWICHES. 
 
 Cut bread and butter as for other sandwiches, 
 place thin scallops of any fish on the slices, and 
 instead of mustard, use Tartar sauce. Put a 
 layer of finely-sliced lettuce on the top of the 
 sauce, and cover with bread and butter. Serve 
 cut into squares. Thin slices of hard-boiled 
 eggs may be added, but fish alone, if well sea- 
 soned, makes good sandwiches. 
 
 FISH SAUCE. 
 
 To a quart of the best vinegar add an ounce 
 and a half of cayenne pepper, two or three shal- 
 lots, a few shreds of garlic, and two table-spoon- 
 fuls each of walnut ketchup and soy. To be 
 kept in a large bottle, and well shaken every 
 day. At the end of a fortnight divide the 
 sauce, and keep it well sealed in small bottles. 
 Use aB reqTiired. It will be fit for use in about 
 three weeks. Probable cost. Is. for this quan- 
 tity. 
 
 FISH, SAUCE FOR BOILED. 
 
 Take some of the water in which the fish has 
 been boiled, and simmer in it for a quarter of 
 an hour an onion, an anchovy, and a table- 
 spoonful of walnut ketchup; add a pint of 
 good veal gravy, strain, and thicken with but- 
 ter and flour. Two table-spoonfuls of the fish 
 broth will be enough for this quantity. Prob- 
 able cost, 4d. 
 
 FISH SAUCE, WITHOUT BUTTER. 
 
 Boil down a table-spoonful of horse-radish, 
 an onion, four cloves, and two blades of mace 
 pounded, in half a pint of water and a quarter 
 of a pint of good vinegar. When the onion is 
 soft, mince it with a couple of anchovies, and 
 stir it into the sauce, adding a tea-spoonful of 
 salt, and half the quantity of black pepper. 
 Mix the 'beaten yolks of three eggs (which should 
 be first strained) into the sauce. Do this gradu- 
 ally, and turn the sauce from the pan to a 
 basin, and then stir it over the fire till it is 
 thick enough to serve. Time to boil the sauce, 
 half an hour ; to thicken with eggs, five minutes. 
 
 FISH SCALLOP. 
 
 Take half a pound of any cold fish; weigh it 
 when the bones and skin have been removed. 
 Put it into a stewpan, with walnut ketchup 
 and made mustard, half a tea-spoonful of each, 
 and half a table-spoonful of anchovy sauce, 
 all of which should be mixed first with half a 
 pint of cream and then with the fish. Heat all 
 together, but it should not boil. Fill a dish or 
 put into scallop-shells ; cover with bread-crumbs, 
 and place butter in small lumps over the top. 
 Brown in the oven, or use a salamander. Time, 
 a quarter of an hour to bake. Probable cost. 
 Is., exclusive of the fish. 
 
 FISH SOUP. 
 
 Slice two middle-sized onions, fry them a 
 light brown in butter, and fry also three pounds 
 
 of eels — they should not be skinned. When 
 just browned (five minutes will do them), add 
 three quarts of boiling water, and while boiling 
 skim carefully. Throw in allspice and black 
 pepper, one-eighth of an ounce, half an ounce of 
 the leaves of lemon, thyme, and winter savoury 
 mixed, and a good bunch of parsley (all green). 
 When the soup has boiled slowly about two 
 hours, during which time it should have been 
 well skimmed, strain and thicken. Melt three 
 ounces of butter, and stir into it as much flour 
 as will absorb the butter. When quite dry, 
 pour some of the soup to it and stir until 
 smooth; then add the remainder by degrees, 
 and simmer altogether for a few minutes, when 
 the soup should be strained into a clean sauce- 
 pan over neatly-cut pieces of fish, such as soles, 
 eels, plaice, flounder, skate, etc., all fried, and 
 forcemeat balls. Keep hot, and serve in about 
 ten minutes after the soup has been poured 
 over the fish. Good fish soup may be made 
 with a skate, a flounder, and a couple of small 
 eels cut into pieces, and fried in butter with an 
 onion sliced, then boiled with half a gallon of 
 water till done, and flavoured with salt and 
 pepper. This stock will keep several days in 
 cold weather. 
 FISH SOUP (another way). 
 
 Boil down the trimmings and bones of any 
 fish intended for this soup ; put them, with 
 three pints of fish stock, into a saucepan, and 
 add three middle-sized onions halved, two 
 lemons sliced, and the rind of one grated, a 
 bunch of parsley, and some chervil. When well 
 stewed, strain through a tamis. Have ready 
 fillets of fish, about six pounds of sole, carp, or 
 perch, and when fried, put them into the soup. 
 Season it with a tea-spoonful of salt and half 
 the quantity of mace and cayenne mixed; and 
 add a couple of glassfuls of white wine. The 
 soup should be good, clear, and free from fat. 
 Simmer ten minutes, and serve with quenelles 
 of fish. Time, one hour to stew trimmings. 
 Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 FISH SOUP QUENELLES. 
 
 Pick out the meat from a lobster, and pound 
 it, together with three ounces of butter. Sea- 
 son with salt anda quarter of a tea-spoonful of 
 mace and cayenne pepper mixed together; blend 
 tha meat to a paste with the yolk of a raw 
 egg, and add, while mixing, the yolks of two 
 hard-boiled eggs and two table-spoonfuls of 
 fine bread-crumbs. Mould in a tea-spoon and 
 poach the quenelles for two or three minutes, or 
 fry in butter a light brown before they are put 
 into the soup. When used as an entree, or break- 
 fast dish, serve with a good gravy, after being 
 boiled or fried in butter. Time, ten minutes to 
 fry for entree. 
 
 FISH SOUP, WITH POTATOES. 
 
 Have ready the fish broth, made as directed 
 for fish soup. When strained, grate a number 
 of potatoes — four pounds of good mealy ones 
 will thicken two quarts of broth — add these with 
 some well-beaten eggs and a large cup of cream. 
 Flavour with salt and nutmeg. If preferred, 
 milk may be substituted for some of the broth, 
 and the cream may be omitted. Serve with 
 klosse or toasted bread. Time, half an hour. 
 Sufficient for eight persons. 
 
FIS 
 
 213 
 
 FLE 
 
 FISH STOCK. 
 
 Cleanse well from the slime, but do not skin, 
 two pounds of eels; cut them into pieces; aho, 
 two pounds of any river fish — carp, trout, etc. — 
 and one pound of skate. Cover these with 
 water, and let them stew gently for four hours, 
 with an onion -stuck with cloves, an anchovy, 
 and about an ounce of salt. Strain for use, 
 when the stock may be enriched with butter to 
 suit the required taste. 
 
 FISH STOCK, BROWN. 
 
 Cut into pieces a skate, a flounder, and two 
 small eels. Fry them in butter a rich brown. 
 Cover with water; add an onion stuck with 
 cloves, three carrots, three turnips, a head of 
 celery, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Boil to a 
 jelly. This stock will keep two days. Strain 
 for use. Time, two hours to boil. 
 
 FISH, TO BOIL. 
 
 Fish to be boiled should be plunged at once 
 into boiling water, and not subjected to the 
 slow cold process, whereby the nutritious juices 
 are extracted. To ascertain if the fish so treated 
 is done, raise the thick part of the flesh ; if it 
 separates from the bone easily it is quite ready 
 for serving. 
 
 FISH, TO BROIL. 
 
 Make a clear fire. A little salt thrown -in 
 will check smoke. Next see that the gridiron 
 is well rubbed with grease (suet is best for the 
 purpose), and that it is hot before the fish is 
 laid upon it ; turn with tongs — a knife is apt to 
 break the fish — and remove as soon as done : 
 the time must be regulated by the size and 
 quality of the fish. {Ste Fish,-6iuiijed.) Gril- 
 ling and broiling are two different words which 
 signify the same thing. 
 
 FISH, TO CAVEACH. 
 
 Salmon or cod may be done in this way. If 
 cod, bone and slice the tail part ; sprinkle with 
 salt; dry well, and fry a nice brown. Make a 
 pickle of vinegar, peppercorns, mace, a few 
 cloves, and bay-leaves; boil till the flavour is 
 extracted, then put by to cool. Cut a couple 
 of small onions into slices, lay them over and 
 between the fish; add a cupful of salad-oil to 
 the vinegar, and pour over the fish, which should 
 be covered. Serve in the middle of a dish, with 
 a salad round it. Time to fry cod, ten to 
 twelve minutes. Salmon will take a, few 
 minutes longer. 
 FISH, TO COOK, IN OVEN. 
 
 Clean and trim any small fish ; put them into 
 a deep pan, with a, gill of vinegar, half a pint of 
 melted butter, and two onions chopped small; 
 lay in with the flsh a seasoning of two tea- 
 spoonfuls of salt and one of pepper. Bake, 
 turning occasionally till done. Serve with the 
 sauce m the dish. Time, twenty minutes to 
 baiie. Sufficient for six pounds of fish. 
 
 FISH, TO FRY. 
 
 The great excellence of fried fish consists in 
 its freedom from grease. When practicable, the 
 flsh to be fried should be entirely immersed in 
 fat which has attained the proper timperature 
 — that is, when it is still, has » blue smoke 
 rising from it, and fizzes and sends out air- 
 
 bubbles when a little piece of bread is thrown 
 into it. Fry to a delicate brown, and drain 
 before the fire on an inverted sieve. Get the 
 fish in good condition; let it be quite dry, 
 dredge it with flour, brush with egg, and strew 
 well with bread-crumbs. Use oil, butter, lard, 
 or dripping. (<See also Fbt, To.) 
 FISH TOAST. 
 
 Put into a saucepan the yolks of two eggs, 
 a gill of milk, and about two ounces of cold 
 fish flaked. Mix well, and let it just thicken 
 over the fire. Have ready six rounds of toast 
 and spread them with bloater or anchovy paste. . 
 Lay the mixture of eggs, flsh, etc., on the toast, 
 sprinkle a little cayenne, some bread-crumbs, 
 and a little butter over, and brown quickly in 
 the oven for about eight minutes. Serve very 
 hot, garnished with water-cress. Probable 
 cost. Is. 
 FISH (vol-au-vent). 
 
 Make a puff paste ; roll it out about one inch, 
 and a quarter thick, and then cut it to the de- 
 sired size with a tin-cutter. Make an incision 
 all round, an inch from the edge, with a small 
 sharp knife, or better still with a tin-cutter, if 
 one of the size be at hand. Bake on a tin pan 
 in a quick oven. When done, nicely egged 
 over, and of a pale brown colour, cut out the 
 centre paste without breaking the edge, and fill 
 the vacant place with a fricassee of flsh, oys- 
 ters, lobster, etc. Serve the vol-au-vent on a 
 folded napkin. Time to bake, three-quarters 
 oi an hour. Probable cost, puff paste. Is. 6d( 
 per pound. 
 
 FISHERMAN'S SOUP. 
 
 Make a soup according to the following re- 
 cipe, by which means the smallest fry may be 
 utilised. Take all the fish caught in a day's 
 angling — carp, dace, roach, perch, etc. — wash 
 them in salt and water, and put them in a 
 stewpan with a tomato, a leek, an onion, and 
 two. carrots sliced, a bunch of sweet herbs, and 
 enough water to cover them. When boiled to 
 a pulp, strain, and throw in as much more 
 water as will be wanted for the soup, and boil 
 another hour. W^hen ready to serve, put two 
 turnips and a head of celery, previously boiled 
 and cut into small pieces, into the tureen, and 
 flavour with a tea-spoonful each of soy and 
 chilli vinegar. 
 FLEMISH CREAM. 
 
 Pour a pint of hot water on half an ounce of 
 the best isinglass. When it has dissolved, mix 
 it with a quarter of a pint of cream and a glass 
 of brandy, and whisk it into a light froth. 
 Colour with currant jelly. Put it into a mould. 
 Probable cost, Is. 3d., exclusive of brandy. 
 
 FLEMISH SOUP. 
 
 Slice six onions, cut six heads of celery into 
 small pieces, and slice about twelve potatoes. 
 Put a quarter of a pound of butter and two 
 ounces of ham into a saucepan, and cook until 
 the ham is browned. Then put in the vege- 
 tables, add a quart of white stock, and let it boil 
 gently until the potatoes are dissolved. Rub 
 through a fine sieve with the crumb of half a 
 French roll soaked in the broth, and add half 
 a pint of cream that has been boiled, and four 
 yolks of eggs well beaten. Work a little fresh 
 
FLO 
 
 2U 
 
 FLO 
 
 butter into tlie soup previous to serving. Prob- 
 able cost, 23. 6d. 
 
 FLOATING ISLAND. 
 
 Into three-quarters of a pint of cream put 
 sugar to make it very sweet, and the juice and 
 rind of a lemon grated. Beat it for ten min- 
 utes. Cut French rolls into thin slices, and 
 
 FLOATIKG ISLAND. 
 
 lay them on a round dish on the top of the 
 <;ream. On this put a layer of apricot or cur- 
 Tant jam, and some more slices of roll. Pile 
 up on this, very high, a whip madfe of damson 
 jam and the- whites of four eggs. It should 
 be rough to imitate a rock. Garnish with fruit 
 oi sweetmeats. Time, one hour and a half to 
 prepare. Probable cost, 3s. 
 
 FLORENCE PUDDING. 
 
 This is a most delicious dish for people 
 who are fond of very sweet things. 
 
 Stew half a pound of prunes till soft, theji 
 remove the stones, and. carefully bruising 
 these, extract the kernels. Add half a pound 
 of stoned, chopped dates, one tea^cupful of 
 walnuts, and four ounces of sugar. Mix all 
 well together, and add the stifly beaten whites 
 of three eggs. Boil a quarter of a pound of 
 rice till tender, beat up the yolks of the eggs, 
 and stir these in whilst the rice is still hot, 
 mixing well; then put the rice into a mould 
 and leave to set. Turn out, and pour the 
 mixture round. 
 
 Bake in a moderate oven till a pale brown 
 colour. Cost, 9d. to Is. 
 
 FLORENTINE OF ORANGES AND APPLES. 
 
 Take one pound of golden pippins ; scoop and 
 pare them; throw them into cold water. Have 
 ready over the fire one pint of water, into which 
 put half a pound of lump sugar; boil and skim; 
 then put in the pippins and stew till clear; do 
 not let them break. When cold, place them in 
 a pie-dish with two table-spronfuls of orange 
 (Seville) marmalade, and a little lemon-peel. 
 Cover with puff paste. Time, stew till tender. 
 Probable cost, 8d. or lOd. 
 
 FLOUNDERS (au Gratin). 
 
 Cut up parsley, shallot, and small button 
 mushrooms, very finely. Fry them in butter, 
 with a seasoning of salt and pepper. Cover 
 the bottom of a flat tin baking-dish, previously 
 buttered, with the herbs, and lay on them a 
 flounder, neatly trimmed, or fillets bf any flat 
 fish. Strew bread-crumbs thickly over, and bits 
 of butter on the top of all. Moisten with white 
 wine. Cook carefully. Crisp the top with a 
 salamander or a red-hot shovel. Serve very 
 
 hot, and with a squeeze of lemon over the dish.- 
 Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost of 
 flounders, 6d. to Is. each. Sufficient, one for 
 each person. 
 FLOUNDERS, BOILED. 
 
 Lay the fish in a kettle, with salt and boiling 
 water in the proportion of six ounces to each 
 gallon," and a little vinegar. Let the water, 
 boil up again, and then remove it to the side to 
 simmer till the contents are done. The fish 
 must not boil fast, or they will break. Time to 
 simmer, ten to fifteen minutfes. Probable cost 
 of flounders, from 6d. to Is. ; 
 FLOUNDERS, FRICASSEED. : 
 
 Put the liquor of a dozen oysters into a stew- 
 pan with a glass of white wine, and a gill of 
 white .stock. Simmer for ten minutes, add a 
 gill of cream, and thicken with flour and but- 
 ter, then add the oysters. Have ready fillets of 
 flounders or plaice that have been fried crisp 
 and brown in butter or dripping. Lay them 
 in the centre of a hot dish, pour the sauce 
 round them, and serve. Time, ten minutes to 
 fry. Probable cost, 6d. to Is. Sufficient, one 
 for each person. 
 FLOUNDERS, ' FRIED. 
 
 Lay them in salt and water for an hour or 
 more to get rid of the muddy flavour, or rub 
 them well on all sides with salt, which will make 
 the fish' firm. Dry them, dip into egg, and 
 cover with bread-crumbs. Fry in oil or boiling 
 fat, and serve on a hot napkin. Garnish with 
 crisped parsley. Time, five to ten minutes to 
 fry. Probable cost, 6d. to Is. 
 FLOUNDERS, STEWED. 
 
 Wash and trim the fish ; put them into a stew- 
 pan with about a pint of some good gravy, a 
 glass of claret or port, a small tea-spoonful of all- 
 spice and black pepper mixed, three cloves, or a 
 little mace. Stew the fish in this mixture till 
 done ; then remove them, and thicken the gravy, 
 adding a little chilli vinegar, essence of an- 
 chovy, pepper, and salt. Strain, and send it to 
 table poured over the fish. Time to stew the 
 flounders, ten to twenty minutes ; to boil gravy, 
 eight to ten minutes. 
 FLOUR, BROWNED. 
 
 This flour will be found un excellent substi- 
 tute for roux, which the French employ in the 
 composition of their dishes. The flour is 
 simply browned by placing it on a baking-tin 
 in the oven or before the fire, and turning it 
 frequently to prevent its being burnt. Blended 
 with butter, it colours and thickens soup; If 
 kept in an ordinary dredging-box it will be 
 found convenient for gravies or any made dishes. 
 FLOUR PASTE. 
 
 A common paste may be made by simply 
 boiling flour and water, but one that will keep 
 good, and be useful for various purposes, skould 
 be made as follows. Dissolve an ounce of alum 
 in a pint and a half of warm water; add flour 
 to make it as thick as cream, and a tea-spoonful 
 of powdered resin. Boil till stiff, stirring well. 
 This will keep twelve months. 
 FLOUR PORRIDGE. 
 
 Mix one ounce of flour with two table-spoon- 
 fuls of cold milk. Stir this gradually into a 
 
FLO 
 
 215 
 
 FOR 
 
 pint of boiling milk, adding half a tea-spoou- 
 lul of salt. Boil gently for ten minutes, and 
 serve with sugar or treacle. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 FLOUR PUDDING. 
 
 Make with the following ingredients : —One 
 quart of new milk, eight yolks and four whites 
 of eggs. Beat the eggs with part of the milk, 
 into which stir four large spoonfuls of flour ; add 
 the rest of the milk, and flavour with nutmeg, 
 essence of ratafia, and sugar to taste. Mix well, 
 and boil fqr one hour in a buttered basin. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for two puddings. 
 
 FLOUR PUDDING, HASTY. 
 
 Make a smooth batter with two ounces of fine 
 flour and a pint of mijk. Boil it in a clean 
 saucepan over a slow fire until quite thick : 
 add sugar to sweeten, half an ounce of butter, 
 a few drops of the essence of ratafia, and a 
 little grated nutmeg. Let it stay till cold; 
 then beat into the batter three eggs, and bake 
 in a dish lined or not with thin paste. A layer 
 of marmalade, or any other preserve, on the 
 paste at the bottom of the dish is much ap- 
 proved of ; or the pudding may be eaten simply 
 boiled as above, and served hot with cold but- 
 ter, sugar, and -nutmeg. Time to bake, half an 
 hour. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for two or 
 three persons. 
 
 FLUMMERY. 
 
 Melt two ounces of gelatine in a pint and a 
 half of water ; add a wine-glassful of sherry and 
 half a glass of brandy, with the juice of three 
 lemons, and sugar enough to sweeten. Stir into 
 the liquid when cold a pint of double cream 
 which has been whisked until it began to 
 thicken. If mixed while warm the lemon-juice 
 will curdle it. Moulds should be dipped in 
 water or oiled, and the fiummery should be 
 iallowed to set a day before turning out. 
 Blanched almonds, slit lengthwise, stuck round 
 the flummery, or preserved cherries, look well. 
 Probable cost, 3s. for this quantity. Sufficient 
 for two moulds. 
 
 FOIE GRAS. 
 
 This delicacy is prepared in Strasburg and 
 other places from the livers of geese specially 
 fed and fattened. The best is sold in terrines, 
 the smallest size of which costs about Is^ 6d. 
 It may be served in the terrine in which it is 
 bought, garnished with a, little parsley, or it 
 may be added to improve the flavour of a meat 
 or game pie. In every case it gives a rich flavour 
 to the dish with which it is incorporated. 
 
 FOIE GRAS, IMITATION. 
 
 Put six ounces of butter into a saucepan; 
 when melted add one pound of raw bacon, one 
 and a half pounds of calf's liver (whole), sea- 
 son with pepper and salt to taste, six cloves, 
 and ten crushed peppercorns. Simmer very 
 slowly for two and a half hours, then let it get 
 cold and pound it in a mortar. Hub all through 
 a sieve, and mix it with the liquor. Press into 
 fancy pots; cover with melted mutton fat, 
 clarified; serve garnished with parsley. Prob- 
 able cost, 23. 6d. 
 
 FOIE GRAS TOAST. 
 
 Cut two or three slices of buttered toast into 
 finger-lengths about one inch wide. Spread 
 
 them over with foie gras about a quarter of an 
 inch thick; dust a little cayenne pepper over; 
 put into the oven for a few minutes, and serve 
 very hot. 
 
 FONDANT, FOR MASKING CAKES, ETC. 
 
 This is simply made with two pounds of 
 sugar, half a cupful of water, and a quarter of 
 a tea-spoonful of cream of tartar, but great 
 care and attention to detail are necessary. Put 
 the sugar and water into a good-sized saucepan ; 
 when molted mix the cream of tartar with a 
 little water and stir in. Try the heat with a 
 kitchen thermometer, and when it reaches 230 
 degrees take the pan off the fire, and turn the 
 contents out at once into a basin which has 
 been rinsed out with cold water. Place the 
 basin in another containing cold water, and 
 renew the water as it gets warm. Sprinkle the 
 top of the syrup with cold water to prevent it 
 caking, and allow it to stand until blood-warm. 
 Then beat it with a wooden spoon till it be- 
 comes stiff and white ; turn it on to a baking- 
 board and , knead it like dough, using icing 
 sugar instead of flour. When it becomes 
 smooth and elastic it is; ready to use, or to put 
 awa,y in a basin covered over with a thick damp 
 cloth. (See also Fbost, or Icino, foe Cakes.) 
 
 FONDU. 
 
 Boil three-quarters of a pint of milk and dis- 
 solve an ounce of butter in it. Stir into it a 
 quarter of a pint of cold milk in which two 
 ounces of arrowroot has been rubbed smooth. 
 Boil till thick, then add the yolks of four eggs, 
 half a table-spoonful of salt, a salt-spoonful of 
 cayenne, and four ounces of grated Parmesan. 
 Pour in the whites of six eggs whisked to a , 
 light froth, and bake at once, without opening 
 the oven till done. The dish should be lined 
 with a buttered paper rising three inches above 
 the top, as the fondu will rise very much. It 
 must be sent to table immediately, for it falls 
 as quickly as it rises. (See also Cheese Fondtj.) 
 
 FORCEMEAT, ALMOND. r 
 
 Beat up the yolks of three eggs with a 
 quarter of a pint of good cream, and flavour 
 with a little nutmeg. Blanch and pound in a 
 mortar three ounces of sweet almoiids, using 
 white of egg to moisten. Add these, with three- 
 quarters of a pound of light bread-crumbs, and 
 three ounces of butter broken into small bits, 
 to the egg mixture. Stir in, lastly, the whites 
 of the eggs whisked to a solid froth, and fill 
 either capon or turkey. 
 
 FORCEMEAT BALLS. 
 
 Chop a quarter of a pound of beef suet, a 
 little lemon-peel, and parsley. Mix with a basin 
 of bread-crumbs, and flavour with pepper, salt, 
 and nutmeg. Moisten with the yolks of two 
 eggs, roll in flour, and make up into small balls. 
 Bake in a hot oven till. crisp. This recipe will 
 do for fowls. The addition of a little ham, 
 chopped or pounded, will be found a consider- 
 able improvement. 
 
 FORCEMEAT BALLS, BRAIN. 
 
 Clean and soak the brains in lukewarm water 
 for three hours, then boil. When cold, pound 
 them in a mortar with a little flour, some 
 chopped parsley, salt, and pepper. Bind with 
 raw egg, and 'make into small balls. Fry a 
 
FOR 
 
 216 
 
 FOR 
 
 light brown, and drop them into a tureen. 
 Time, ten minutes to boil. 
 
 FORCEMEAT BALLS, CURRY. 
 
 Pound together bread-crumbs, hard-boiled 
 yolks of eggs, a small quantity of butter, and a 
 seasoning of curry powder and salt. Make into 
 small balls. Time to fry, two or three minutes. 
 
 FORCEMEAT BALLS, EGG. 
 
 Pound the hard-boiled yolks of half a dozen 
 eggs with some chopped parsley, a tea-spoonful 
 of flour, a little pepper, salt, and cayenne. 
 Moisten with egg, and make the paste into 
 small balls. Boil for two minutes before using 
 in soup or other dishes. Probable cost, 8d. 
 Sufficient for one tureen of soup. 
 
 FORCEMEAT BALLS FOR MOCK-TURTLE SOUPS. 
 
 The delicate French preparation. Panada, 
 will, if used in the composition of these balls, 
 be found a great improvement. Prepare it 
 thus. Soak the crumb of two or three rolls. 
 Put it into a small saucepan by the side of the 
 fire, with enough pale rich gravy to cover it. 
 When sufficiently boiled, squeeze off the mois- 
 ture, put the panada into an enamelled sauce- 
 pan, and stir with a wooden spoon till dry; 
 then mix with it the yolks of two unbeaten 
 eggs, and let it cool for use. Pound in a 
 mortar four ounces of veal, free from gristle, 
 bone, and skin; add the panada to this, with 
 three ounces of fresh butter. Season with nut- 
 meg, mace, salt, and cayenne. If liked, a 
 little lean ham and more seasoning may be 
 iised. Roll into balls, and boil before adding 
 to the soup. Time, twelve minutes to boil. 
 
 . FORCEMEAT, BUTTER. 
 
 Mix three ounces of butter with four ounces 
 of bread-crumbs ; add a large tea-spoonful of 
 finely-chopped parsley, half a tea-spoonful of 
 grated lemon rind, and seasoning of salt and 
 cayenne. Beat up an egg with a tea-spoonful 
 of milk, strain, and moisten the mixture with 
 this. Stir well, and it is ready for use. Prob- 
 able cost, 9d. 
 
 FORCEMEAT, CHESTNUT. 
 
 Remove the outer skin from some chestnuts 
 (they should be ripe and sound). Boil them for 
 two or three minutes to get off the inner skin. 
 Peel them, and to preserve their colour throw 
 them into cold water; drain and weigh them. 
 Stew six ounces of them gently for about twenty 
 minutes in veal gravy. Let them get cold, 
 pound them till smooth with an equal quantity 
 of butter, or half their weight in fat bacon, and 
 add two ounces of bread-crumbs, and a little 
 salt, lemon-rind, and nutmeg. Bind the mix- 
 ture together with the unbeaten yolks of two 
 eggs. If this forcemeat is formed into cakes, 
 these should be dipped into flour before being 
 fried. Time to fry, flfteen minutes. 
 FORCEMEAT FOR BAKED PIKE. 
 
 Prepare three ounces of bread-crumbs from a 
 stale loaf, shred two ounces of suet, and mince 
 eight or ten bearded oysters. Put these to- 
 gether into a stewpan, with a flavouring of 
 mace (pounded), salt, and pepper. Moisten 
 with the liquor from the oysters, and six table- 
 spoonfuls of thick cream. Bind with the yolks 
 of two eggs, and stir over the fire till the mix- 
 
 ture thickens. Stuff this forcemeat into the 
 pike, and sew the fish up securely. Time to 
 thicken forcemeat, four or five minutes; to 
 bake pike, one hour, more or less. Sufficient 
 for one pike. 
 
 FORCEMEAT FOR CARP. 
 
 Prepare from a stale loaf half a pound of 
 crumbs, and mince one dozen oysters, divested 
 of beards ; add two ounces of finely-shredded 
 suet, and the same of bacon or ham, and good 
 fresh butter. Flavour with salt, nutmeg, a 
 dessert-spoonful of savoury herbs, and a little 
 parsley, all of which should be minced small. 
 Blend together with three well-beaten eggs. 
 Stuff the fish, and sew up securely. Probable 
 cost, 2s. Sufficient for one fish. 
 
 FORCEMEAT FOR COLD PASTIES. 
 
 For savoury pasties, to be eaten cold, use a 
 forcemeat of fowl — an old fowl will answer this 
 purpose. Strip off the skin, and clear the fiosh 
 from the bones; pound the meat in a. mortar; 
 soak some white bread in milk, squeeze it dry, 
 and rub with it three ounces of butter, in the 
 proportion of half a pound of bread to this 
 quantity; add the meat, with a fiavouring of 
 nutmeg and salt. Bind with four yolks of eggs, 
 and make up into balls for pasties or soups. A 
 little ham, cut into thin slices and rolled round 
 the balls separately, is a great improvement to 
 a white meat pasty. For game or beef pasties 
 use pork, game, or liver. If parsley is liked, 
 some may be minced and pounded with the 
 meat. 
 
 FORCEMEAT FOR FISH, SOUPS, OR STEWS. 
 
 Pound the flesh of a medium-sized lobster, half 
 an anchovy, a piece of boiled celery, the yolk 
 of a hard-boiled egg, salt, pepper, and cay- 
 enne to taste. Mix these with a tea-cupful of 
 bread-crumbs, two ounces of butter (oiled), and 
 two raw eggs. Make into small balls, and fry 
 a pale brown in butter. Two or three oysters 
 may be added. Probable cost, 3s. to 4s. (See 
 
 also FOECEMEAT TOR BaKED PiKE.) 
 
 FORCEMEAT FOR GAME. 
 
 Take the livers of the game, and pound them 
 with half their weight of beef suet and good fat 
 bacon, mixed together; season with salt, pep- 
 per, and powdered cloves. Use a, little of the 
 meat of game if enough livers cannot be ob- 
 tained; moisten with cream, and bind with the 
 yolks of two eggs. If the forcemeat be re- 
 quired stiff, stew over a gentle fire, keeping it 
 constantly stirred until the proper consistency 
 is gained. Time to stew, about ten or twelve 
 minutes. 
 
 FORCEMEAT FOR GOOSE. 
 
 Chop very finely two ounces of onions, pour 
 boiling water on them^ and cover the basin 
 with a plate. When they have steamed a few 
 minutes, pour off the water, and add the same 
 weight of bread-crumbs and the parboiled liver, 
 or a little beef minced small, with half a dozen 
 sage-leaves, or more if liked. Flavour with 
 salt, pepper, and cayenne. Some cooks boil 
 the onions, but as this mode takes from the 
 freshness of the forcemeat, the above prepar- 
 ation of onions will be found to please most 
 lovers of goose. Butter may be used, bits of it 
 
FOR 
 
 217 
 
 FOR 
 
 being mixed with the forcemeat, but a well- 
 conditioned goose will not require butter. 
 
 FORCEMEAT FOR HARE. 
 
 Parboil the liver of the hare, if sound, and 
 mince it finely; also chop a quarter of a pound 
 of suet and rather less of lean bacon, which 
 should be shredded fine, that the forcemeat may 
 not require to be pounded in a mortar. Mix these 
 ingredients together, and add six ounces of 
 bread-crumbs, a dessert-spoonful of parsley, a 
 little thyme and marjoram mixed, salt, pepper, 
 and nutmeg. Bind with two or three yolks of 
 eggs, which must be well beaten before being 
 used, and stuff the inside of the hare with the 
 forcemeat. 
 
 FORCEMEAT FOR MEAT PIES OR RAGOUTS. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of ham, the same 
 of cold veal, and of beef suet, a small onion or 
 two, some parsley, cayenne, salt, and a very 
 little lemon-peel, with half, a pint of bread- 
 crumbs. Pound all. together in a mortar (pre- 
 viously chopping the meat). Form the force- 
 meat into a mass with two raw eggs. The 
 flavour may be varied according to taste ; an 
 anchovy or oysters may be added, if liked. 
 Time, about one hour to prepare. Probable 
 ;cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 FORCEMEAT FOR PERCH. 
 
 Take a roach or dace, clean it, and throw it 
 into boiling water slightly salted for seven or 
 eight minutes. Take it out, cut off its head 
 and tail, split it open, and bone it. Pound 
 the flesh with half its weight in freshly-boiled 
 shelled shrimps, a filleted anchovy, one ounce 
 of bread-crumbs soaked in a little milk and 
 squeezed dry, half an ounce .of butter, a tea- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley, half a shallot, a 
 very little thyme, a salt-spoonful of salt, and 
 a pinch of pepper. Let this be thoroughly 
 mixed, fill the fish with it, sew up the opening, 
 and cook as directed. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 FORCEMEAT FOR PHEASANT. 
 
 Take the livers of two fowls; see that they' 
 are sound, and that the gall has been properly 
 cleared away. Parboil them, and then pound 
 in a mortar, with half a pound of grated ham, 
 cooked, and without fat, three or four trufiies, 
 or mushrooms, if the former cannot be had, half 
 a tea-spoonful of minced parsley, and a shallot. 
 Flavour with pepper, salt, and a little nutmeg. 
 Blend with the forcemeat three ounces of but- 
 ter, and stuff the bird. Time, five minutes to 
 boil livers. Probable cost, exclusive of truffles. 
 Is. 4d. Sufficient for one pheasant. 
 
 FORCEMEAT FOR PIGEONS. 
 
 Stir two ounces of butter till it is almost a 
 cream; blend with it four ounces of grated 
 bread-crumbs, add a little parsley minced fine, 
 lemon-peel, and nutmeg grated, with salt and 
 pepper to taste. Bind with one beaten egg. 
 Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 FORCEMEAT FOR QUENELLES. 
 
 This forcemeat may be coinposed of chicken, 
 veal, game, or fish. Scrape the meat from a 
 couple of rabbits, or the lean meat from a 
 knuckle of veal, pound it in a mortar, and ^ass 
 it through a wire sieve. Put back into the 
 mortar three-quarters of a pound of meat, with 
 
 half a pound of good butter, and the same of 
 milk panada; mix, and pound all together. 
 Add to it a flavouring of pepper, salt, nutmeg, 
 and lemon-peel, both grated, and continue to 
 pound while adding four or five well-beaten 
 eggs. Much depends on the care employed in 
 the preparation of this forcemeat; it may be 
 used as a stufiing, or moulded into quenelles. 
 
 FORCEMEAT FOR ROAST PIG. 
 
 Parboil a small onion, or two if the flavour be 
 liked. Chop them very fine, with about half 
 an ounce ot powdered sage, five or six ounces 
 of bread-crumbs, and a quarter of a, pound of 
 good fresh butter. Flavour highly with cay- 
 enne pepper and salt. Bind with egg. Onions 
 are not always used for this forcemeat; they 
 may be left out altogether. 
 
 FORCEMEAT FOR TURKEY. 
 
 Take equal quantities of lean veal and pork, 
 and mince them finely together; also cut into 
 pieces a parboiled veal sweetbread, and mix 
 with about three-quarters of a pound of each of 
 the former meats. Add half a pound of bread 
 panada, and the same of warmed butter. 
 Flavour with a little nutmeg, salt, pepper., and 
 half an ounce of grated lemon rind. Bind with 
 three beaten eggs, and fill both crop and body. 
 
 FORCEMEAT FOR TURKEY (ROAST). 
 
 Take of lean veal, or the flesh of an old fowl, 
 a couple of ounces ; free it from skin and sinew. 
 Pound it in a mortar, with two ounces of 
 shredded suet, the same of bread-crumbs, a 
 dessert-spoonful of minced parsley, a large tea- 
 spoonful of lemon-thyme, an onion, and the 
 grated rind of half a lemon. Flavour deli- 
 cately with pepper and salt, and jDound and 
 bind together with, two beaten eggs. A richer 
 and better forcemeat is made by the addition of 
 ham, tongue, anchovy, or the minced flesh, 
 without the beards, of a dozen oysters Pork 
 sausage-meat is commonly used to stuff the crop. 
 
 FORCEMEAT OF BEEF. 
 
 Take .cold mashed potato, some slices of beef 
 minced fine, a few savoury herbs, pepper, and 
 salt. Mix these with two eggs to a paste. 
 Make into balls. Fry in butter a rich brown. 
 Garnish with fried parsley. 
 FORCEMEAT OF FISH. 
 
 Clear away the skin and bone from turbot, 
 brill, or any solid fish; mince one pound of the 
 flesh very fine. Stew an onion in butter, and 
 when tender, pound it in a mortar with four 
 ounces of butter, broken into bits. Add six 
 ounces of bread, previously soaked in milk and 
 squeezed At^, a couple of eggs, which should be 
 well beaten, pepper, salt, and nutmeg; and 
 when all is well mixed, stir in the fish, and 
 make up into balls to be fried or boiled. _ Pre- 
 vious to mixing the fish with the other ingre- 
 dients it should be passed through a wire sieve. 
 
 FORCEMEAT OF GAME. 
 
 Clear the meat from the bones, and mince it 
 with a quarter of a pound of fat bacon to 
 each pound of game. Flavour with shallot, 
 capers, lemon-peel, and a very few leaves of 
 tarragon, all of which should be minced very 
 fine. Soak some bread, and press out all the 
 moisture ; add it, with the yolks of three eggs. 
 
FOR 
 
 218 
 
 FOW 
 
 If the bacon be salt, be careful not to over- 
 salt the forcemeat ; pepper to taste ; and stir in 
 the frothed whites of eggs before using. 
 FORCEMEAT OF LIVER. 
 
 To one pound of calf's liver allow a quarter 
 of a pound of fat bacon; chop them both 
 separately. Stew in butter, but do not brown, 
 ii shallot, an onion, and, if liked, a small clove 
 of garlic. Cover the stewpan until these are 
 tender. Press out the moisture from ^ome bread 
 which has been soaked in water, and add it to 
 the butter in the pan; stir it to a stiff paste, 
 adding more butter if required. Remove the 
 paste to a mortar, and pound it with the chopped 
 liver, etc.j a couple of eggs beaten without the 
 whites, a small quantity of allspice or nutmeg, 
 pepper, and salt. When well pounded to- 
 gether, pass the forcemeat through a wire sieve. 
 FORCEMEAT OF MUSHROOM. 
 
 Procure four ounces of young just opened 
 mushrooms. Peel them, cut off the stems, and 
 remove the brown part. Dissolve two ounces of 
 fcutter in a stewpan, and let them simmer in it 
 Tery gently over a slow fire, with a slight 
 flavouring of mace and cayenne. Spread them 
 over a dish, placed in a slanting position to 
 drain away the moisture. When cold, mince 
 them, and add four ounces of fine bread-crumbs, 
 a small seasoning of salt, cayenne, mace, and 
 nutmeg, a piece of butter, and the yolks of a 
 couple of eggs to bind. Throw in as much of 
 the mushroom gravy as will make the forcemeat 
 of the proper consistency. It will be greatly im- 
 proved if the whole mixture be pounded in a 
 mortar. Make into balls, poach, and throw into 
 soup ; or fry, and serve round a dish of roast 
 fowls or minced veal. It is also good as a 
 s buffing for boiled fowls, partridges, etc. Time 
 to stew in butter, seven minutes ; to poach balls, 
 six minutes; to fry, six or seven minutes. 
 FORCEMEAT OF ONION. 
 
 An accompaniment for roast turkey or fowl. 
 After peeling the onions, scoop out the' inside 
 carefully, and fill up the vacancy with force- 
 meat (see Forcemeat fob Tubket). Bake the 
 onions in the oven. 
 FORCEMEAT OF OYSTER. 
 
 Get very fresh oysters, beard them, and cut 
 them into quarters. Grate bread enough to fill 
 a half-pint measure, and one ounce and a half of 
 finely-shredded suet or butter, which should be 
 broken into bits. Mix all these ingredients to- 
 gether with a good flavouring of herbs, and a 
 seasoning of salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. 
 Bind with two well-beaten eggs. This forcemeat 
 is for boiled or roast turkey. • It nig:y be made 
 also into balls and used as a garnish. Eighteen 
 oysters are sufficient for one turkey. 
 FORCEMEAT OF SAUSAGE. 
 
 Prepare one pound of sausage-meat, in the 
 proportion of two parts of lean pork to one of 
 fat. Take this and an equal quantity of bread- 
 crumbs; add two ounces of butter, a seasoning 
 of salt, pepper, and a small salt-spoonful of 
 mace. Pound all together in a mortar, and 
 bind with the yolks of a couple of eggs. 
 
 FORCEMEAT OF SHRIMP. 
 
 Clear a pint of shrimps from their sheila, and 
 chop them finely. Mix with an equal quantity 
 
 of bread-crumbs. Season with salt, pepperj and 
 a small quantity pi mace. Pound into a smooth 
 paste, with two or three, ouncts of butter. Bind 
 with the yolk of an egg. Use this forcemeat 
 to stuff any fresh-water fish. A pike, for ex- 
 ample, if stuffed and baked, will be found 
 excellent. 
 
 FORCEMEAT OF SUET. 
 
 Chop as finely as possible one ounce of suet, 
 and mix with it a dessert-spoonful of chopped 
 pafsjey, and the chopped rind of half a lemon. 
 Add to them two ounces of bread-crumbs, a tea- 
 spoonful of dried sweet herbs, and a seasoning 
 of pepper and salt, and mix all together. Beat 
 and strain one egg, moisten the forcemeat with 
 it, and mix well. This is suitable for a boned 
 and rolled joint. 
 
 FORCEMEAT OF VEAL. 
 
 Chop lean veal, free from skin or fat, and 
 then pound it in a mortar; add a third of its 
 weight of butter or suet, and the same of fine 
 bread, which should be first soaked in cold miik 
 and squeezed dry. Pound all in a mortar, 
 with a flavouring of salt, pepper, and nutmeg. 
 Bind with the yolks of two eggs, and make the 
 paste into little balls, or use it as a stuffing. 
 
 FOUR-FRUIT JELLY. 
 
 The fruits selected for this excellent jelly are 
 those which will yield the most juice. Take of 
 fine red-currantsj. half a pound, of cherries, rasp- 
 berries, and strawberries, each half that weight ; 
 get out all their juice over a slow fire, and 
 strain it from the fruit. Make a syrup with 
 three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, and as 
 much water as, with the juice, will make a 
 quart. Dissolve an ounce of isinglass, clarify, 
 and simmer the whole over the fire for about five 
 minutes. Add a glass of cura9oa, and strain 
 into a mould. The jelly should be iced before 
 being turned out to serve. Probable cost, 2s. To 
 clarify jelly, see Gale's Foot Jelly. 
 
 FOUR-FRUIT LIQUOR (a pleasant drink for 
 Summer). 
 Take one pound of raspberries, one pound of 
 black-currants, one pound and a half of, straw- 
 berries, and one pound and a half of Morella 
 cherries. Put them into a deep jar, cover 
 closely, and place it in a saucepan, half 
 filled with boiling water, and simmer very gently 
 for half an hour. Take the pan from the fire, 
 and pass its contents through a jelly-bag, being 
 very careful not to squeeze the fruit ; which, if a 
 little of the juice is left in it, may indeed be used 
 for common tarts. Measure the juice, and put 
 it into a deep jar, and for every quart add six 
 ounces of loaf sugar which has been dissolved in 
 half a pint of water. Add half the cherry ker- 
 nels, slightly bruised, cover the jar to keep out 
 the dust, and let it stand for twenty-four hours. 
 Stir into it an equal quantity of brandy, pass 
 the liquid again through the jelly-bag, and 
 bottle for use. When taken, two table-spoon- 
 fuls of this liquor should be added to half a 
 tumblerful of iced water. 
 
 FOWL. 
 
 It may be serviceable to point out the fea- 
 tures which should be looked for when a fowl is 
 purchased for cooking purposes. Chickens, oB 
 
FOW 
 
 219 
 
 FOW 
 
 account of their age, can hardly be anything 
 else than tender. Ciipons should have a fat 
 vein beneath the wing, a thick belly and rump, 
 a short and pale comb, and smooth legs. Pm- 
 lets are at their best in the spring. Cocks 
 should have short spurs, smooth legs, and a 
 short, smooth, bright comb. Hens should be 
 full-breasted and smooth-legged. 
 
 FOWL (4 la Bechamel). 
 
 Have ready a pint of bechamel sauce; pour 
 about half of it over a couple of fowls, boiled 
 according to the recipe given (see Fowl, 
 Boiled); the other half should be thinned with 
 a little stock, and served in a tureen. Send to 
 table hot, with a garnish of brocoli in bunches 
 round the dish. Time, from half an hour to one 
 hour. Probable cost, 7s. per pair. Sufficient 
 for six or seven persons. 
 
 FOWL (,k la Carlsford, entree). 
 
 Bone a fowl, without making an opening 
 down the back; fill up the vacancies made by 
 the removal of the bones with a forcemeat, and 
 put a roll of it into the body. A nicely-seasoned 
 sausage-meat may also be added, and placed on 
 either side. Truss firmly with slender skewers, 
 and tie the bird to the spit. Baste frequently, 
 ajid roast it a whole hour. An ordinary veal 
 stuffing may be used ; but a mushroom or any 
 other delicately prepared forcemeat will be an 
 improvement. 
 FOWL (k la Fran^aise). 
 
 Remove the breastbones from a couple of 
 fine fowls, and draw the strings from the legs ; 
 truss them as for boiling. Mix some lemon- 
 juice with a lump of butter, which insert in the 
 fowls before placing them into a stewpan, then 
 cover them with strips of fat bacon, cut very 
 thin. Make a sauce as follows.. Cut equal 
 quantities of veal and fat bacon, one pound of 
 each, into dice, with enough ham to flavour. 
 Fry the meat, without browning it, in a good 
 quantity of butter, season with -salt, pepper, and 
 add a clove, half a bay-leaf, a few sprigs of 
 parsley, and a little thyme, with as much boil- 
 ing water as will be required for gravy to stew 
 the fowls. Stew till the flavour of the herbs is 
 extracted, then strain into the stewpan. Heap 
 red cinders on the cover of the stewpan, and 
 keep a very slow fire underneath. When suf- 
 ficiently done, drain, and serve the fowls with 
 rich brown sauce, and a scarlet tongue between 
 them. Time, three-quarters of an hour to stew 
 the fowls. Probable cost, 7s. Sufficient for 
 seven or eight persons. 
 
 FOWL (a la Hollandaise}. 
 
 Take out the breast-bone of a large but young 
 fowl, and fill up the space with a forcemeat 
 composed of the following ingredients. Half a 
 pint of bread-crumbs, an ounce and a half of 
 fineiy-Shredded suet or butter, a small ])iir- 
 boiled onion, or a few oysters, bearded, and cut 
 not too small, pepper, salt, and an egg to bind. 
 Make a batter as for fritters, and when the fowl 
 has roasted half its time, pour the batter over, 
 and when dry, pour on more ; repeat until it is 
 thickly coated, and of a nice brown- colour. 
 Serve with melted butter and lemon pickle. 
 While roasting, a thickly buttered paper should 
 be fastened over the fowl, and only removed 
 
 when the batter is used. Time, one hour alto- 
 gether. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 FOWL (a la Marengo). 
 
 Pour four table-spoonfuls of the best Lucca 
 oil into a stewpan, and out a fowl into pieces, 
 which dredge with flour. Lay them into tha 
 stewpan and brown over a moderate fire, turning 
 each piece, that all may be of a good colour. A 
 pint of stock, or water, should now be added, 
 with >■ piece of garlic about the size of a pea, a 
 dozen and a half, or more, of small button- 
 mushrooms, salt, pepper, and a tea-spoonful of 
 sugar. Simmer gently for half an hour, and do 
 not skim away the oil, but leave it floating on 
 the sauce. When done, arrange the joints nicely 
 on a dish, and reduce the sauce by boiling till 
 it is sufficiently thick, then serve it over the 
 fowl. Time, fifty minutes altogether. Suffi- 
 cient for four or five persons. 
 
 FOWL (a la Mayonnaise). ' 
 
 Cut up the joints of a cold roast fowl. On a 
 dish place a layer of picked lettuce; on this 
 place a layer of fowl, sprinkling, as you pro- 
 ceed, with hard-boiled eggs, anchovies, cucum- 
 ber, and capers, all chopped together ; now put 
 cress, chopped radishes, dry mustard; again 
 lettuce ; and on the top of the dish arrange the 
 breast and wings of the fowl; garnish with 
 hard-boiled eggs, in rings, and beetroot; and 
 pour over the whole a sauce mayonnaise. (See 
 Mayonnaise Sauce.) 
 
 FOWL (a la Milanese). 
 
 Grate two ounces of Parmesan cheese, and 
 mix with bread-crumbs. Cut a fowl into fillets, 
 and dip each fillet into the crumbs ; roll them in 
 egg-yolk, well beaten, and then again into bread- 
 crumbs, seasoned with pepper and salt. Fry 
 them in butter until of a nice brown colour, and 
 have ready a puree of tomato sauce to serve 
 them on. Time, twenty minutes to fry. Prob- 
 able cost, 4b. Sufficient for three or four per- 
 sons. 
 
 FOWL {k la Remoulade). 
 
 Truss a fine fowl for boiling, lay sliced lemon 
 on its breast, and tie slices of bacon over all. 
 Put it into a stewpan with some good stock, 
 and put with it a carrot, an onion, and a bunch 
 of sweet herbs. Let it stew gently till done 
 enough. Take it out, and when cold cut it up 
 into convenient-sized pieces. Place all in a 
 salad-dish, with a sauce made of two hard- 
 boiled yolks of eggs, rubbed till smooth, and 
 mixed with salt and pepper, five large spoonfuls 
 of oil, and two of tarragon vinegar. Garnish 
 with French beans and slices of hard-boiled egg 
 intermixed. Probable cost, 7s. or Ss. Suf- 
 ficient for six persons. 
 
 FOWL (k la Tartare). 
 
 Split open a large fowl into halves, and press 
 it flat into a dish of clarified butter, the feet 
 having been previously taken off and the legs 
 bent in. In ten minutes fry it in butter a pale 
 brown, oool, then cover with fine bread-crumbs 
 and beaten egg. Dip the fowl once more into 
 the clarified butter and broil over a slow fire, 
 taking care that it does not burn. It should be 
 turned often. Serve with a brown gravy, 
 flavoured with lemon-juice, and send sauce a la. 
 
FOW 
 
 220 
 
 FOW 
 
 Tartare (see Tabtab Sauce) to table in a tureen. 
 Time, twenty minutes to broil. Probable cost, 
 3s. 6d. Sufficient for four persons. 
 FOWL, BLANQUETTE OF. 
 
 Put into a stewpan half a pint of white sauce 
 and a quarter of a pint of broth ; when boiling, 
 add some neat pieces of cold fowl and slices of 
 tongue boiled, season with pepper and salt, 
 cover closely, and let the fowl get hot in the 
 sauce, but do not let it boil. Five minutes be- 
 fore serving stir in the well-beaten yolks of two 
 eggs and about one table-spoonful of strained 
 lemon-juice. One fowl is sufficient for four per- 
 sons. 
 FOWL, BOILED. 
 
 Truss the fowl firmly, and boil slowly in a 
 saucepan of hot water. The slower it boils and 
 the better it is skimmed the plumper and whiter 
 it will be. Place the fowl on a hot dish, and 
 pour over it some bechamel ; serve parsley and 
 butter, or other sauce, in a tureen. Boiled 
 tongue, ham, or bacon should accompany it. 
 Time : large fowl, ons hour ; moderate-sized 
 one, three-quarters. Probable cost, 3b. 6d. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 FOWL, BOILED, WITH RICE. 
 
 Into some clear broth put an onion, pepper, 
 salt, and mace; stew the fowl very gently in 
 this for half an hour : then add half a pound of 
 rice, well washed ; simmer till this is quite 
 tender, then remove the rice, and plaje on a 
 hot sieve to. drain; dish the fowl, and place rice 
 all round it. Serve with melted butter and 
 parsley for sauce; do not use too much broth. 
 Time, one hour or longer. 
 FOWL, BONED AND STUFFED. 
 
 Pound together in a, mortar, after being 
 minced, equal quantities of fat bacon and lean 
 ham (two ounces of each), and four ounces 
 of veal. Mix with these a small cup of bread- 
 crumbs, and season with pepper, salt, and nut- 
 ineg. Bind with the yolks of two eggs. Bone 
 a fine fowl, without disfiguring the skin, press 
 this forcemeat into it; tie it into a nice shape, 
 and stew in some white stock. It may be 
 served with any white sauce, and with sliced 
 lemon as a garnish. Time, one hour to stew. 
 Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. 
 FOWL, BRAISED. 
 
 Fill a nice young fowl with forcemeat, after 
 removing the breast-bone. Put it into a stew- 
 pan, with a pint of broth, two glasses of white 
 wine, any available poultry trimmings and 
 bones, an onion stuck with cloves, a piece of 
 carrot, and two or three blades of mace, pepper, 
 and salt. Lay thin slices of bacon over the fowl, 
 and envelop it in a delicate cloth, Cover the 
 braising-pan over, and place it on a moderate 
 fire. In an hour's time take out the fowl, and 
 brown it in the oven. Strain the gravy in the 
 stewpan, boil, and reduce it to a glaze, with 
 which cover the fowl. Garnish with a fricassee 
 of mushrooms and truffles if these are at hand. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 FOWL, BRAISED, WITH BEEF AND CHEST- 
 NUTS. 
 
 Take a piece of the upper side of the round 
 of beef, about one pound and a half, and rub it 
 
 with a pickle made with the following ingre- 
 dients. Half a tea-spoonful of salt, and the 
 same of pepper, a pinch of cayenne, a salt-spoon- 
 ful of mustard, the same of grated nutmeg, a 
 piece of garlic about the size of a pea, half a 
 gill of some good sauce, either Worcester or 
 Harvey, a table-spoonful of oil, and the strained 
 juice of a lemon. Let the beef stay in and be 
 basted with this pickle for twenty-four hours. 
 Put a piece of butter in a stewpan, with the 
 heart of a celery-root, a carrot, and two shal- 
 lots. When drained from the pickle, lay in the 
 beef, and place a fine fat fowl, trussed for boil- 
 ing, on it ; cover the breast with butter, and six 
 good-sized slices of bacon, and add, lastly, three- 
 quarters of a pint of water, and the saiice. Baste 
 the fowl frequently; throw into the gravy one 
 dozen and a half of peeled chestnuts, and be 
 careful not to stew too quickly. When it has 
 simmered about two hours and a half take up 
 the fowl, put the bacon round it, and pour a 
 rich white sauce over it. Dish the beef separ- 
 ately, with the vegetables and gravy. Serve 
 both dishes at once. Probable cost, 8s. 6d. 
 Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 FOWL, BRAISED, WITH TOMATOES. 
 
 Put a stewpan over the fire, and when hot, rub 
 a clove of garlic over the bottom two or three 
 times. Lay a fowl in the pan, prepared as if for 
 boiling, the breast being covered with well-but- 
 tered paper. Use the best part of a quarter of 
 a pound of butter on the paper, and pour in a 
 large breakfast-cupful of strong white gfravy. 
 Bring the gravy to a boil, and then draw it 
 aside to simmer gently. Baste frequently with 
 the gravy for three-quarters of an hour, then add 
 half a dozen tomatoes sliced, a shallot minced, 
 salt, pepper, a grain of cayenne, the quarter of 
 a salt^spoonful of powdered ginger, the same of 
 nutmeg, and half a salt-spoonful of flour of mus- 
 tard. Put the tomatoes in last, with the juice, 
 strained, of a large lemon, and a wine-glassful 
 of Marsala. Let it come to a boil, but continue 
 to simmer slowly, and baste for an hour or more. 
 Serve the fowl on a hot dish, with the sauce 
 poured over. Time to simmer fowl iix gravy, 
 two hours. Sufficient for a dish. 
 
 FOWL, BROILED. 
 
 This is a hasty and very excellent dish, suit- 
 able for the supper-table, to be had in perfec- 
 tion at Windsor, Cookham, etc. Take off the 
 head of a young fowl, draw and plunge the bird 
 into boiling water. Remove the skin and feathers 
 together. Split it up the back, and lay the 
 inside downwards on a gridiron over a clear 
 fire. Baste frequently, and pepper lightly on all 
 sides. When sufficiently done, put it on a 
 hot dish, sprinkle salt, and rub with butter. 
 Serve with mushroom, tomato, or liver and 
 lemon sauce. The fowl should be turned over 
 when half cooked. Time to broil, thirty-fi:ve 
 minutes. 
 FOWL, BROILED, WITH MUSHROOM SAUCE. 
 
 Divide a large fowl into quarters, broil as in 
 last recipe, basting plentifully with butter. 
 Pepper lightly, and season to taste with salt. 
 Make a- sauce as follows. Stew two dozen 
 button-mushrooms and a slice of lean ham 
 with a little butter ; add some brown 
 gravy, about three-quarters of a pint, pep- 
 
FOW 
 
 221 
 
 FOW 
 
 per, and salt, and simmer till the mush- 
 rooms are tender. Thicken to the consistency of 
 cream, and add a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice, 
 and half that quantity of sugar. Serve with the 
 sauce round the fowls. Time to broil the 
 quarters of fowl, about thirty-flve minutes. 
 Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 FOWL, COUNTRY CAPTAIN. 
 
 Cut a fowl into pieces; sprinkle it with fine 
 salt and curry-powder, and fry it brown in 
 butter along with a small chopped onion. Then 
 put it into a saucepan with a pint of broth ; 
 stew slowly down to a half-pint, and serve with 
 rice. Probable cost, 3s. 
 
 FOWL, CROQUETTES OF. 
 
 Mix with every half-pound of cold fowl (free 
 from bone or gristle), two ounces of scraped 
 ham. Make half a pint of gravy, by boiling 
 the bones and rejected pieces. Fry two or three 
 shallots in a little butter, add the gravy, and 
 season with powdered mace, pepper, salt, and 
 half a tea-spoonful of pounded sugar. Eub up 
 a table-spoonful of flour with two ounces of 
 butter; put this and the mince to the gravy, 
 and when thick, stir in the yolks of two well- 
 beaten eggs. Make into balls as soon as cold, 
 and fry a nice brown. RoU them in egg and 
 bread-crumbs before frying. Time, ten minutes 
 to fry. 
 
 FOWL, CURRIED. 
 
 Cut up a young fowl; roll each piece in a 
 mixture of curry-powder and flour, three dessert- 
 spoonfuls of each. Cut four large onions into 
 rings, and divide the rings into bits an inch 
 in length; fry a light brown in two ou;ices of 
 butter, with a small piece of garlic if approved 
 of. Add the pieces of fowl, and two more ounces 
 of butter. Put all into a stewpan, and stew 
 gently with half a pint of hot milk, broth, or 
 water. Season to taste with salt, and cover well. 
 The sauce should be reduced one-third, to 
 which squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, 
 before being sent to table. Eice should 
 accompany fowl prepared in this manner, either 
 round the dish or separate. 
 
 FOWL, CURRIED (4 I'Indienne). 
 
 Great care is required in the preparation of 
 this excellent curry. ' Take a tender young 
 fowl, pluck, draw, and singe it in the usual way, 
 and cut it into small neat pieces convenient for 
 serving. Mix a dessert-spoonful of curry- 
 powder, a dessert-spoonful of curry paste, and a 
 tea-spoonful of ground rice, and rub the mixture 
 to a smooth paste with a little cold stock. Stir 
 in gradually one pint of boiling stock ; pour the 
 sauce into a delicately clean stewpan, and stir 
 it over the fire till it is smooth aii.d thick. Put 
 a quarter of a pound of butter into a frying-pan, 
 and slice up six large onions, three or four 
 tomatoes, three cloves of garlic; chop up also 
 an ounce of raisins without stones ; fry all, and 
 brown the pieces of fowl a nice colour in the 
 same butter. Pour the curry gravy over the 
 fried fowl, move the stewpan to the side, sim- 
 mer gently till done, then add the juice of half 
 d lemon and serve. Time, about two hours to 
 simmer the fowl. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Suf- 
 ficient for five persons. 
 
 FOWL, CURRIED (another way). 
 
 Melt two ounces of butter in a saucepan ; cut 
 up an onion and fry it in the butter to a light 
 brown. Clean and dry a fowl, and fry it to a 
 nice brown in the hot butter. When done, lift 
 it out ; mix two table-spoonfuls of curry-powder 
 with one table-spoonful of flour, and stir it into 
 the butter; let it cook for a few minutes, then 
 add a pint of veal stock, an apple cut up very 
 finely, two ounces of sweet almonds blanched 
 and pounded in a mortar, and some salt. Then 
 put back the fowl, and let all gently simmer 
 for from three-quarters of an hour to an hour. 
 Add the juice of half a lemon, and serve. Prob- 
 able cost, 3s. to 4s. 
 
 FOWL CUTLETS. 
 
 Bone a fresh young fowl ; separate the wings, 
 legs, and merrythought; pick out all the meat 
 from the inferior parts, mince it, and season 
 with pepper, salt, and chopped lemon-peel. Put 
 it in a mortar, and smooth to a paste, with a 
 small quantity of gravy, procured by boiling 
 the bones and trimmings. Make cutlets of the 
 legs, wings, etc. ; dip each cutlet into eggs, 
 spread the forcemeat over, and bread-crumbs 
 over all; then fry in butter a good brown. Serve 
 with some of the gravy thickened in the dish. 
 Time, one hour and a half to prepare. Sufficient 
 for three or four persona. 
 
 FOWL, EN CASSEROLE. 
 
 Take an earthenware baking-dish with a lid. 
 Cover the bottom with sliced and skinned 
 tomatoes and onions. Disjoint a fowl, and put 
 the pieces in the dish, with salt and pepper to 
 taste and a sprinkling of mixed herbs. Cover 
 with another layer of tomatoes and onions. Add 
 half - pint of stock, cover closely, and cook in 
 the oven very gently for about two hours. Serve 
 in the casserole in which it is cooked, with a 
 . napkin pinned round. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. 
 
 FOWL FILLETS (au Supreme). 
 
 Cut from three fowls as many neat fillets as 
 you can; lay them in pairs, with forcemeat be- 
 tween, in a dish of clarified butter, and then 
 fry them in some more butter, and dip them well 
 in bread-crumbs. Fry also bread, cut as nearly 
 the same size as possible. Heat the fillets in 
 supreme sauce (see SupeEIIE Satjce), but be 
 especially careful not to allow them to boil in 
 it. When serving, pour the sauce over the 
 fillets piled in the centre of the dish, but do 
 not moisten the bread with it. Place the bread 
 alternately with the fillets round the dish, and 
 leave the sauce where it was poured in the 
 centre. Time for the_fowl to lie in butter, half an 
 hour ; to fry, ten minutes. Sufficient for a dish. 
 
 FOWL, FRICASSEED. 
 
 Take cold boiled fowl ; cut it up, and simnaer 
 in gravy with onion, mace, lemon-peel, white 
 pepper, and a bunch of herbs ; a bit of knuckle - 
 of veal added will be an improvement ; stew for 
 twenty minutes. Mix up a bit of butter and 
 flour; put this into the gravy, with a little 
 cream, a dash of nutmeg, and salt to taste. 
 When thickened it is ready to serve. 
 
 FOWL, FRIED. 
 
 Divide the remains of a cold fowl into con- 
 venient-sized pieces ; shred two or three shallots 
 
row 
 
 222 
 
 FOW 
 
 very fine, strew them with salt and cayenne, 
 put the meat into a dish, and pour in vinegar 
 enough to steep it. Take out the fowl in 
 an hour, drain, and fry, dipping each piece 
 into batter; use lard for frying, and let the 
 pieces be nicely browned. Garnish with rolled 
 bacon and fried parsley. For the batter, mix 
 half a pound of flour with half a pint of hot 
 water to a cream-like batter, stir in two ounces 
 of butter, and the whites of a couple of eggs 
 beaten to a froth. Time, ten minutes to fry. 
 Probable cost, 9d., exclusive of fowl. 
 
 FOWL, FRIED (a la Malabar). 
 
 An Injjian dish, highly recommended by an 
 experienced cook. Fry in butter the several 
 joints of a chicken, previously rubbed with 
 curry-powder and a little salt. Make them of a 
 nice light brown colour. Cut some onions into 
 sUcea, separate them into rings, and again cut 
 them into bits of half an inch. Fry them very 
 slowly in a clean pan of clarified butter. If 
 blackened, they will be spoiled. They should 
 be of a delicate golden brown, and free, when 
 done, froin grease. When quite dry, sprinkle 
 salt, and strew over the fried chicken. Serve 
 hot and with a cut lemon on a plate. Time, 
 twenty miniites to fry fowl. Probable cost, 
 3s. 6d. Sufficient for an enlrie. 
 
 FOWL, GALANTINE OF. 
 
 Open a fine fowl down the back, bone, and 
 then cut out the flesh in long narrow strips, 
 without injuring the ekin; leave enough meat 
 as a lining to prevent the skin from bursting. 
 Fill in the space (first spreading out the fowl 
 with the breast downwards) with a good force- 
 meat, about half an inch thick; then place the 
 strips of fowl and strips of boiled tongue in 
 layers, with a few truflles between if they can 
 be had. Fill up with alternate forcemeat and 
 the strips of fowl, etc. Shape the bird nicely, 
 and enclose it in a delicate white cloth. Have 
 ready in a stewpan enough stock to cover the 
 fowl. Put with it a knuckle of veal and a calf's 
 foot, and stew gently for three-quarters of an 
 hour ; then add salt and pepper, a clove, and a 
 bunch of sweet herbs, and stew for another hour, 
 keeping the lid of the pan closed. When the 
 fowl is taken up, continue to boil the stock till 
 it will jelly. Clarify, and when cold ornament 
 the gelantine with it, cut iaany form liked. If 
 the fowl be cold, remove it from the cloth, glaze 
 and cover with a mixture of bread-crumbs and 
 grated roasted chestnuts, and garnish with the 
 jelly, and hard-boiled eggs in halves, alternately. 
 
 FOWL, GRILLADE OF. 
 
 Score deeply the legs of a cold roast fowl or 
 of any kind of game; and cover them thickly 
 with a sauce prepared by mixing two spoonfuls 
 of salad-oil, a spoonful of chutney, a spoonful 
 of anchovy, a spoonful of mustard, and a little 
 cayenne. Let them lie in this for an hour or 
 two; then grill them over a strong, clear fire 
 to a bright brown colour, and serve them very 
 hot. Send either dry toasts or rusks or 
 piquante sauce to table with them. 
 
 FOWL, GUINEA, TO ROAST, - 
 
 This bird improves in flavour by hanging. 
 Prepare and roast like a turkey; the head is 
 sometimes left on, sad the breast larded. Serve 
 
 with gravy and bread-sauce in a tureen. Time, 
 three-quarters to one hour, according to size. 
 Sufficient for four persons. 
 FOWL, HASHED. 
 
 Cut up a roast fowl, or any part of one. Put 
 the bones and trimmings into a stewpan, with 
 water to cover them; add a carrot or two, some 
 sliced onion, previously fried in butter, a Llade 
 of pounded mace, some savoury herbs, pepper, 
 and salt. When the goodness is extracted, 
 strain and thicken with a small quantity of 
 flour and butter. Put the fowl into a clean 
 stewpan, pour the gravy over, and simmer for 
 twenty minutes. A few minutes before serving 
 add the juice of half a lemon. Garnish with 
 sippets of toasted bread. Time to stew bones, 
 etc., for gravy, one hour and a half; to warm 
 fowl, twenty minutes. Probable cost, exclu- 
 sive of the poultry, 6d. 
 FOWL, INDIAN DISH OF. 
 
 Put over the fire in a large stewpan two 
 quarts of good veal broth, in which place a fowl, 
 trussed as for boiling; add the following spices 
 (pounded), tied in a muslin bag: of cloves, all- 
 spice, mace, and peppercorns, each a quarter of 
 an ounce, and of coriander-seed and cinnamon, 
 half an ounce, with forty cardamom seeds. 
 Brown slightly in a frying-pan with two ounces 
 of butter, a pound of well-washed rice (Patna); 
 and when the fowl is nearly done, add the rice, 
 and stew until soft. Cut two or three middle- 
 sized onions into slices, dredge with flour, and 
 fry a nice brown colour, without breaking the 
 rings. Have ready six slices of bacon curled 
 and grilled, and a couple of eggs, boiled hard 
 and quartered. Arrange the fowl in a pyra- 
 midal form upon a dish, smother with the rice, 
 and garnish with the sliced onion, bacon, and 
 eggs. Time, half an hour to stew fowl ; half an 
 hour to stew fowl and rice. Probable cost, 5s. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 FOWL JELLY (in cakes). 
 
 Take ten pounds of the leg of beef, two cow- 
 heels, a knuckle of veal, a couple of old fowls, 
 and the trimmings of any thing at hand, with 
 the bones, etc., broken in pieces; cover with 
 water, and boil gently, adding a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, a blade of njace, an onion, a bit of lemon- 
 peel, and some whole peppers, and salt to taste. 
 Boil six hours ; clear off the fat, strain, and let 
 the mixture cool, when every particle of grease 
 must be removed. When cold, put it over a 
 quick fire, and boil till the jelly clings to the 
 wooden spoon, when it may be poured out into 
 a buttered tin. When quite cold, cut it into 
 strips, and store carefully in a tin box, to be 
 dissolved for gravy or soups. 
 
 FOWL LIVER, GARNISH. 
 
 Take the livers from four fowls ; let them be 
 quite sound, and of a good colour. Blanch 
 them in boiling water, and then stew in gravy; 
 add a bunch of thyme, parsley, pepper, and 
 salt, half a tea-spoonful of each, with a small 
 glass of white wine. When they have stewed a 
 qliarter of an hour, dry and use as a garnish. 
 Time to blanch, ten minutes. 
 FOWL, MARINADED. 
 
 Cut a fine fowl into joints, and then into neat 
 ' pieces. Pour over them, on a dish, equal quan- 
 
FOW 
 
 223 
 
 FOW 
 
 titles of oil and lemon-juice, a large wiuc-glass- 
 ful of each. Shred a, couple of Bhallots, and 
 lay a bunoh of herbs and some, sprigs gf paraley 
 about them ; season with a dessert-spoonful of 
 pepper jnixed. The fowl sliould be skinned be- 
 fore being put into the marinade, and well 
 drained when removed from it. Pry in egg 
 and bread-crumbs. Strain as much of the 
 marinade as will be required for gravy. Make 
 it hot, and add a table-spoonful of mushroom 
 ketchup, and the same of brown roux. Serve 
 with the fowl- in the centre, and the gravy 
 poured round it. Time, six hours to lie in 
 marinade ; to fry, twenty minutes. 
 
 FOWL, MATELOTE OF. 
 
 Brown two ounces .of butter with a little flour 
 in a stewpan. Stir in half a pint of brown 
 sauce, and add a parsnip and the red part of 
 two carrots, cut into lengths of half a fihger, a 
 dozen small onions, blanched and peeled, a 
 bunch of herbs, parsley, a gill of claret, salt and 
 pepper. Cut up a couple of chickens or a large 
 fowl into neat pieces ; put them in a clean stew- 
 pan with bouillon enough to cover them, and 
 simmer for half an hour; then remove them to 
 the other stewpan with the vegetables, adding a 
 little bouillon if needed. Stew for ten min- 
 utes longer, then dish the fowl and reduce the 
 sauce. Pour it hot over the fowl, and serve 
 with pieces of fried eels or crayfish. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons; 
 FOWL, MAYONNAISE OF. 
 
 Take all the meat off one or more cold fowls, 
 and pile it up on the centre of a dish. Cover 
 it with mayonnaise sauce (see Mayonnaise 
 Sauce), and garnish with watercress and hard- 
 boiled eggs. 
 
 FOWL, MINCED (k la Bechamel). 
 . Put a small cupful of bechamel sauce, and 
 the same of white stock, into a stewpan, with 
 the solid white meat of a. cold roast fowl, 
 minced; stir well until it boils up, take off 
 immediately, and put it into a dish* The mix- 
 ture may, if liked, be put in the centre of a 
 dish, and have the sauce poured upon it and 
 potato croquettes arranged around it. Time 
 to simmer in the sauce, two or three minutes. 
 Sufficient for a dish. 
 FOWL, MINCED, WITH MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of mushrooms, rub 
 them with salt, and chop finely. Simmer them 
 in a saucepan for ten minutes with half a pint 
 of milk. Remove all skin and gristle from the 
 remains of a cooked fowl, and cut the meat 
 into small pieces. Take the mushrooms out of 
 the milk and put them with the fowl. Mix half 
 an ounce of flour with a table-spoonful of milk, 
 and pour the boiling milk on to it, stirring well. 
 Return it to the saucepan, and stir over the fire 
 till nicely thickened; then, put in thQ fowl and 
 the mushrooms, and let them heat slowly by 
 the side of the fire. Season with pepper and 
 salt, and serve very hot. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. 
 
 FOWL PIE, MOCK STRASBURG. 
 
 Bone a pheasant, fowl, an^ a brace of par- 
 tridges, and cut the meat into pieces about two 
 inches in length, and a quarter of an inch in 
 thickness. Allow to every pound of meat half 
 a tea-spoonful of salt, a good pinch of pepper,. 
 
 a piece of butter about the size of an egg, and 
 four trufSes. Put the meat, flavouring, and 
 truffles in a covered baking-dish, arranging, in 
 layers, first meat, then seasoning and butter, 
 then trufiiesj and bake for one hour in a mode- 
 rate oven. Next prepare the gravy, by stewing 
 down the bones of the fowl, pheasant, etc., with 
 a very small piese of garlic, two shallots, some 
 nutmeg, a tea-spoonful of salt, one clove, a 
 spoonful of sugar, a dessert-spoonful of brandy, 
 a table-spoonful of sherry, and ^ piiit of water. 
 Stew until the gravy is reduced to half the quan- 
 tity, when strain, and pour it on the meat. Cover 
 carefully, and return the dish to the oven for 
 two hours ; if left uncovered until cold, the 
 butter will rise to the surface. If a covered 
 baking-dish is not at hand, a stone jar will 
 answer the purpose, though, in the latter case; 
 the meat would require to be turned out of the 
 jar before sending to table. Probable cost, 
 18s. to 20s. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. 
 FOWL PILAU. 
 
 Stew a young fowl in half a gallon of good 
 veal broth, with the following spices fastened 
 in a muslin bag. Of cloves, allspice, mace, and 
 peppercorns, each a quarter of an ounce, cori- 
 ander-seed and cinnamon, half an ounce, and 
 forty cardamom seeds, all pounded. Soak one 
 pound of good rice in water for ten minutes, 
 drain and fry it with two ounces of butter until 
 slightly browned, then add it to the broth, and 
 stew until the fowl is tender, and nearly with- 
 out moisture. Have ready six slices. oi bacon, 
 curled and grilled, and a couple of onions, sliced 
 and fried a nice brown. Pile the fowl in the 
 middle of a dish with the rice over it, and 
 garnish with the bacon, fried onions,- and hard- 
 boiled eggs. Cut into quarters. Time, half an 
 hour to stew without rice ; half an hour with it. 
 Probable cost, 43. 3d. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 FOWL, POTTED. 
 
 Cut the meat. off the bones of a cold roas-fc 
 fowl. Pound it in a mortar, with butter in the. 
 proportion of four ounces to every pound of 
 meat. The skin and gristle should be carefully 
 removed before the meat is weighed, and , the 
 butter should be of the best kind. Add, while 
 pounding, six or seven grates of nutmeg, a 
 small pinch of pounded mace, with salt and 
 cayenne. A mixture of ham will be found very 
 relishing; it should be first grated, and then 
 pounded with the fowl to a smooth paste. Fill 
 small pots, and cover with clarified butter. 
 Keep in a dry place, and tie down with bladder. 
 FOWL, RAGOOt of. 
 
 Boll down the inferior parts, bones, etc., of a 
 couple of roast fowls, and cut the joints 'into 
 neat pieces as for a fricassee. Stew with the 
 trimmings an onion quartered, a couple of shal- 
 lots, one blade of mace, some lean bits of ham, 
 and' a bunch of herbs. Cover with stock or 
 water, and boil very gently till all the nourish- 
 ment is extracted. The bones should be crushed 
 before beginning to boil. Put a piece of butter 
 into a stewpan and let it melt; add flour suf- 
 flcient to absorb the butter, strain the liquor 
 from the bones into it, and stir over the fire 
 for a few minutes. Season with pepper "and 
 salt. Place the pieces of fowl, nicely in. the 
 
FOW 
 
 224 
 
 FOW 
 
 gravy, pour in a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, 
 and about a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar. 
 Let it get hot, but it should not boil. Serve 
 with the gravy poured over, and a garnish of 
 croutons. Time, one hour to stew trimmings, 
 half an hour to stew fowl. Probable cost, 9d., 
 exclusive of the fowl. 
 
 FOWL, RISSOLES OF. 
 
 Take half a pound of the remains of a cold 
 fowl, without skin or bone, and grate an ounce 
 or two of tongue or ham, then chop al! to- 
 gether until the meat is quite smooth. Boil 
 down the bones and trimmings with water to 
 cover, a bit of lemon-peel, a piece of a laurel- 
 leaf, and a bit of garlic the size of a peppercorn. 
 Boil until the liquid is reduced to about a 
 quarter of a pint, which should be strained and 
 used, at least as much as may be required of 
 it, to moisten the meat. Mix with the chopped 
 fowl a couple of tea-spoonfuls of browned flour,' 
 and season it with white' pepper, salt, and nut- 
 meg; add a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, 
 and some of the gravy. When wanted to make 
 into balls (it should first be allowed to stand 
 two or three hours to get firm), have ready 
 beaten egg and finely-grated bread-crumbs; 
 roll the balls twice into the egg and crumbs 
 that they may be thickly coated, and fry in 
 plenty of boiling lard. Turn them about to get 
 done on all sides alike of a light brown. Serve 
 with a bouquet of fried parsley in the centre 
 of the dish, and the rissoles round it. 
 
 FOWL, ROAST. 
 
 Truss the fowl with the giblets under the 
 wings. Singe it. While roasting, baste often 
 with butter, and sprinkle with flour some min- 
 utes before serving to make it look frothy. If 
 liked stuffed, use a veal stufliing, or a ham 
 forcemeat if the fowl be very large. Serve with 
 plenty. of rich light-brown gravy, and bread or 
 oyster sauce. Time, three-quarters to one hour. 
 
 FOWL, ROAST, TO CARVE. 
 
 Insert the knife between the leg and the 
 body, and cut to the bone; then turn the leg 
 back with the fork, and, if the bird is not old, 
 the joint will give way. The wing is next to be 
 
 KOAST POWL, TO CARVE. 
 
 broken off, and this is done by inserting the 
 knife at the base of the breast-bone and 
 dividing the joint. The four quarters having 
 been removed in this way, take off the merry- 
 thought, and remove the neck-bones by putting 
 the knife in at the centre of the breast ana 
 pressing it, when they will break off from 
 the part that sticks to the breast. Next 
 separate the breast from the body of the 
 fowl, by cutting through the tender ribs 
 
 close to the breast, quite down to the tail. 
 Turn the fowl now back upwards ; put the knif o 
 into the bone midway between the neck and the 
 rump, and on raising the lower end it will 
 separate readily. Turn the rump from you, and 
 take off very neatly the two sidesmen, which 
 completes the operation. The breast and wings 
 are considered the best parts of a roast fowl, 
 but in young birds the legs are the most juicy. 
 In the case of a capon or large fowl, slices may 
 be cut off the breast, just as is done when carv- 
 ing a pheasant (sec Pheasant, To Caeve). A 
 boiled fowl is carved much in the same way as 
 a roast fowl. 
 
 FOWL, SALMI OF. 
 
 Cut the birds (wild fowl or poultry) into neat 
 pieces. Skin and remove the fat from them. 
 Boil these with the trimmings and bones 
 crushed for gravy. Slice a, shallot, and add a 
 little mace if liked, but the salmi may be sim- 
 ply seasoned with cayenne, a glass of port or 
 claret, and some lemon-juice. Thicken with 
 browned flour. Lay the pieces of fowl into 
 a clean stewpan, pour the gravy over, and heat 
 all thoroughly, but it should not boil. The 
 spongy, dark substance on the inside of wild 
 fowl is exceedingly bitter, and should not be 
 boiled for gravy. 
 FOWL, SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Boil two eggs for ten minutes and pound the 
 yolks with a shallot, an anchovy, and a tea- 
 spoonful of mustard ; moisten with two dessert- 
 spoonfuls of vinegar. Rub the mixture to a 
 smooth paste, and add by degrees more oil and 
 vinegar, about a table-spoonful of each. Strain, 
 and send to table in a tureen. Probable cost, 4d. 
 FOWL, SAUSAGES OF. 
 
 As an accompaniment to fricassees, or any 
 made dish of fowl, make sausages of veal or 
 poultry. Take equal quantities of the lean 
 white part of the meat and fine bread-crumbs. 
 Scrape half a pound of lean ham, and season 
 with parsley, lemon-thyme, pounded mace, salt, 
 and pepper. Mix all together with the yolk 
 of an egg and a, little milk, and roll into 
 sausages. Fry in butter a light brown. Or, 
 chop the remains of a turkey or fowl, and mix 
 with fat bacon in equal quantities. Pound the 
 mixture in a mortar w^ith an anchovy, a little 
 sage, salt, and pepper. Fry these sausages as 
 a nice supper dish, and garnish with fried sip- 
 pets. A sweetbread with sausages piled round 
 it is excellent. 
 
 FOWL SCALLOPS. 
 
 Mince the meat of a cold fowl very, fine, sea- 
 son with salt and pepper, a dash of nutmeg 
 and cayenne, and a shred of lemon-peel. Put 
 this over the fire in a little thin cream or white 
 broth. When thoroughly warmed through (not 
 boiled), pour into clean buttered scallop-shells. 
 Strew with bread-crumbs until covered, and on 
 the top put bits of butter. Brown the bread- 
 crumbs twenty minutes in the oven. 
 FOWL SCALLOPS (4 la Bechamel). 
 
 Roast a couple of fine fowls, and when done, 
 remove them from the spit. Cut with a sharp 
 knife all the fiesh in one piece from the breasts 
 and wings. Pull off the skin, and slice the 
 meat thinly into small scallops, which arrange 
 
FOW 
 
 225 
 
 FOW 
 
 on a hot dish. Sprinkle lightly with salt, and 
 pour boiling sauce (bechamel) over. If cold 
 fowls be used, dip the scallops one by one into 
 clarified butter and fry but do not brown. 
 Drain off the butter, and pile in the middle of 
 a hot dish. Sauce as above. Time, four min- 
 utes to fry. Probable cost, exclusive of fowls, 
 8d. Sufficient for an entree. 
 FOWL SOUP. 
 
 Skin and cut in pieces an old fowl : break the 
 bones : put all together into a covered earthen 
 pan with half a pint of water. Simmer for 
 seven hours in a slow oven, adding more water 
 when required. Season to taste, and strain it. 
 This may be eaten hot as a soup or cold as a ' 
 jelly. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 
 FOWL, TO BOIL. 
 
 Pick, singe, and truss the fowl ; press the legs 
 into the sides, and make the breast a good 
 shape. Plunge into hot water lightly salted, 
 and boil gently for abovit three-quarters of an 
 hour. Serve with ham, tongue, or bacon. For 
 sauce, either parsley, lemon, or oyster is 
 suitable. A little should be poured over the 
 fowl, and the remainder should be served in a 
 tureen. 
 
 FOWL, TO BONE, WITHOUT OPENING IT. 
 After the fowl has been drawn and singed, 
 wipe it inside and out with a clean cloth, but 
 do not wash it. Take off the head, cut through 
 the skin all round the first joint of the legs, and 
 pull them from the fowl, to draw out the large 
 tendons. Eaise the flesh first from the lower 
 part of the backbone, and a little also from the 
 end of the breastbone, if necessary; work the 
 knife gradually to the socket of the thigh ; with 
 the point of the knife detach the joint from it. 
 Take the end of the bone firmly in the fingers, 
 and cut the flesh clean from it down to the next 
 joint, round which pass the point of the knife 
 carefully, and when the skin is loosened from 
 it in every part, cut round the next bone, keep- 
 ing the edge of the knife close to it, until the 
 whole of the leg is done. Remove the bones of 
 the other leg in the same manner; then detach 
 the flesh from the back and breastbone suf- 
 ficiently to enable you to reach the upper joints 
 of the wings; proceed with these as with the 
 legs, but be especially careful not to pierce the 
 skin of the second joint. It is usual to leave 
 the pinions unbound, in order to give more 
 easily its natural form to the fowl when it is 
 dressed. The merry-thought and neckbones may 
 now be cut away with facility, the back and side- 
 bones taken out without being divided, and the 
 breastbone separated from the flesh, which, 
 as the work progresses, must be turned back 
 from the bones upon the fowl, until it is 
 completely inside out. After the one remain- 
 ing bone is removed, draw the wings and legs 
 back to their proper form, and turn the fowl 
 right side outwards. Bone a turkey in the same 
 manner, but as it requires a large amount of 
 forcemeat to fill it entirely, the legs and wings 
 are sometimes drawn into the body, to diminish 
 the expense of this. If very securely trussed 
 and sewn, the bird may be either boiled or 
 stewed in rich gravy, as well as roasted, after 
 being boned and forced ; "but it must be gently 
 cooked, or it may burst. 
 
 FOWL, TO DRESS. 
 
 Pound together in a mortar two ounces of fat 
 bacon and the same of suet. Mince two ounces 
 of veal and grate the same weight of lean ham. 
 Blend all in a mortar, and beat in the yolks 
 of two hard-boiled eggs and a. tea-cupful of 
 bread-crumbs. Flavour with an anchovy, salt 
 and pepper to taste, and mix to a smooth paste 
 with three well-beaten eggs. Stuff a young, 
 boned fowl with this forcemeat, truss it with the 
 legs and wings drawn inward, and put it into a 
 stewpan with a little white chicken or veal 
 broth. When it has stewed one hour, take it 
 out on a hot dish ; boil up the gravy, and stir in 
 a piece of butter rolled in flour and a cupful of 
 cream. Squeeze iu the juice of half a lemon, 
 and serve. Sufficient for three persons. 
 
 FOWL, TO HASH. 
 
 Boil down the bones and trimmings of a 
 roast or boiled fowl with a pint of stock; put 
 in an onion or shallot, the rind of half a lemon, 
 one blade of mace, pepper, and salt. Have 
 ready in a clean stewpan the fowl, neatly ar- 
 ranged, and when the gravy has simmered half 
 an hour strain it over, and add two ounces of 
 butter rolled in flour, and two dessert-spoonfuls 
 of mushroom ketchup. Serve with sippets of 
 toasted bread. Time altogether, three-quarters 
 of an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of fowl, 
 5d. Sufficient for three or four persons. (See 
 also Fowl, Hashed.) 
 
 FOWL, TO ROAST (German method). 
 
 Eoast for half an hour before the fire a fine 
 fowl that has been well larded and stuffed with 
 forcemeat. Take it from the spit and remove 
 to a stewpan. Put butter over the breast, 
 sprinkle it with salt, and pour in a cup of milk 
 or nice veal broth. Cover it closely, but baste 
 occasionally and steam slowly. When tender, 
 which will be in about three-quarters of an hour, 
 serve the fowl with the sauce thickened in the 
 dish, and a garnish of sliced lemon. Use about 
 a tea-spoonful of arrowroot or cornflour for the 
 thickening. 
 
 FOWL, TO STEW. 
 
 Truss a fowl as for boiling, and put it into a 
 stewpan containing a quart of good gravy; add 
 a head of celery cut into pieces an inch in 
 length, pepper, salt, and one small blade of 
 mace. The fowl should be protected from the 
 bottom of the stewpan ; use four bright skewers 
 for this purpose ; rest the fowl upon them, and 
 stew till the gravy is reduced to less than half 
 its original quantity. Put the fowl on a hot 
 dish, thicken the sauce with two ounces of 
 butter rolled in flour; season to taste, and add 
 a glass of ketchup. Serve hot with the sauce 
 poured over. Time, one hour and a half to 
 stew. Sufficient for a dish. 
 
 FOWL, TO TRUSS (BOILED). 
 
 Pluck, draw, singe, and wash the fowl in- 
 side and outside, then wipe it. Cut off the neck 
 even with the back, but leave enough skin to 
 roll back neatly. Take off the feet, and insert 
 the legs in a slit of the skin made in the sides. 
 Pass a skewer through the leg and the bottom 
 of the wing (the other part of the wing should 
 be twisted over the back) through the body ; do 
 the same on both sides. Roll and skewer the 
 
FOW 
 
 226 
 
 FOW 
 
 skin of the neck, and put the rump through a 
 slit made in the apron. Secure with string 
 across the tops of the legs, and make all firm 
 before boiling. White-legged fowls are best in 
 point of colour for boiling. 
 
 FOWL, TO TRUSS (ROAST> 
 
 Pluck, draw, singe, but do not wash the fowl. 
 Wipe it with a couple of clean cloths, and use 
 white paper when singeing it. Cut off the head ' 
 and neck, and fold the skin over the back. 
 Scald and scrape the legs, cutting off the claws, 
 and fasten the pinions and legs with a skewer 
 long enough to secure the other pinion and leg. 
 Put the liver in one wing and the gizzard in the 
 other, and skewer the fowl firmly before it is 
 put to the spit. A trussing-needle threaded 
 with twine should be used for this purpose; 
 bring it through the backbone, and secure the 
 string on the other side. 
 
 FOWL, VEAL, OR RABBIT CURRY. 
 
 Cut a. fowl or rabbit into neat pieces, and 
 some veal into slices, dredge them with fiour, 
 and cover with curry-powder; fry in butter till 
 brown. Sprinkle finely-shredded onion during 
 the frying, and when the meat is half done, and 
 of a pale brown, pour in some white stock, and 
 finish the cooking ; add a little lemon-juice, and 
 serve hot. 
 
 FOWL, WHITE OYSTER SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Strain the liquor from a dozen oysters, and 
 be careful to preserve every drop of it. Put 
 into a stewpan the strained Uquor, half a pint 
 of milk, a thickening of butter and flour, a 
 little lemon-rind, a blade of mace pounded, and 
 very little cayenne. Stir in three or four table- 
 spooiifuls of cream, and continue to stir till the 
 sauce is thick; then pour it over the scalded 
 oysters, which should previously have been 
 washed and bearded, and put into a clean sauce- 
 pan. Squeeze in the juice of a lemon, move the 
 sauce round for a minute or two, then serve in 
 a tureen. Time, a quarter of an hour to pre- 
 pare. Probable cost of oysters. Is. 9d. to 2s. 
 per dozen. Sufficient for a large tureen. 
 
 FOWL, WITH HAM, POTTED. 
 
 Chop together six ounces of cooked ham and 
 the meat of a hot roast chicken ; pound these in 
 a mortar, with four ounces of butter. Boil 
 down the bones of the chicken with the skin 
 and the gravy from the roasting, season with 
 salt, pepper, mace, and cayenne; reduce the 
 mixture to a glaze, and add it to the pounded 
 meat. Press the fowl and ham into shallow 
 earthen pots, cover with clarified butter, and 
 store in a cool place. 
 
 FOWL, WITH MACARONI. 
 
 Cut up a fowl into neat pieces, and make a 
 seasoning of pepper and salt^a salt-spoonfnl of 
 each — and a little grated nutmeg; roll the 
 pieces in the seasoning, dredge them with 
 browned flour, and fry lightly, using oil or 
 butter. Stew the bones and trimmings; put 
 them into a stewpan with a quart of water, or 
 broth from the boiling of veal, if at hand, a 
 carrot, a sliced onion, a piece of garlic about 
 the size of a pea, a sinall bunch of parsley, a 
 clove or two, a tea-spoonful of mustard, and 
 two of grated cheese, with salt to taste. When 
 
 the bones, etc., have stewed an hour, or more, 
 strain. Have ready a stewpan, containing three 
 ounces of dissolved butter, place five or six 
 ounces of good macaroni, previously soaked an 
 hour in water, into it, pour the strained gravy 
 over, and simmer until soft; -then arrange the 
 fowl in the centre of a dish, with the- macaroni 
 as a wall round it. Pour half a wine-glassful 
 of Marsala into the gravy, make it hot, and 
 serve poured over the fowl. Time to fry fowl, 
 ten minutes ; to simmer macaroni, one hour and 
 a half. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 FOWL, WITH ONIONS. 
 
 Pluck, draw, singe, and wash a fowl, and 
 truss as if for boiling; lay it, with a pint of 
 white broth, in a saucepan. The pan should be 
 previously rubbed with butter, and the fowl 
 should also be smeared with it. Season to taste 
 with pepper and salt, and stew gently for half 
 an hour; then add a dozen and a half of small 
 onions, and stew another half hour. The fowl 
 should be turned three or four times during the 
 cooking. Probable cost, 3s. to 3s. 6d. Suf- 
 ficient for three or four persons. 
 
 FOWL, WITH OYSTERS. 
 
 A fSwl, cooked according to the following 
 recipe, will have a decided superiority of flavour 
 over one boiled in the usual way. Put a young 
 fowl, well filled with oyaters from which the 
 beards have been removed, into a stone jar, and 
 this again into a saucepan of water. Cover 
 the jar t^ prevent the steam escaping, and stew 
 gently. The gravy in the jar, of which there 
 will be a sufficient quantity to serve with the 
 fowl, may be made, with the addition of an egg 
 and a little cream, into a white sauce ; or it 
 may be simply thickened with butter and flonr. 
 Time, one hour and a half to stew. Oystera, 
 Is. 9d. to 2s. per dozen. 
 
 FOWL, WITH PEAS. 
 
 Fry the remains of a cold roast fowl in two 
 ounces of butter until they are of a good brown 
 colour. Have ready on a plate a little flour, 
 chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and pounded 
 mace. Mix these ingredients well, and turn 
 each piece of fowl, as it comes from the frying- 
 pan, in the mixture. Place a stewpan over the 
 fire, with half a pint of broth or gravy, a pint of 
 peas, and a tea-spoonful of sugar ; into this put 
 the fowl, and stew until the peas are tender. 
 Serve the peas in the centre of the dish, and 
 arrange the pieces of . fowl in a circle round 
 them. Probable cost, exclusive of fowl, 8d. 
 
 FOWL, WITH RICE. 
 
 Prepare the fowl as if for boiling ; cover with 
 water, or good veal broth, if at hand. Skim 
 well while boiling, and put into the saucepan, 
 half an hour before the fowl is cooked, a quarter 
 of a pound of rice, salt, pepper, and an onion. 
 Stew very gently till tender. Take out the 
 fowl, strain the rice, and put the latter before 
 the fire to swell; thicken the broth with flour 
 and butter; serve the fowl on the centre of a 
 dish, with the rice round, and the sauce over 
 all. The delicate appearance of the fowl will 
 be spoiled if the rice be not well-washed, and 
 the scum carefully removed. Time, one hova to 
 boil fowl; half an hour to stew rice. Probable 
 cost, 4s. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
FOW 
 
 227 
 
 FRE 
 
 FOWL, WITH RICE CROQUETTES. 
 
 Boil half a pound of rice in a quart of good 
 broth, and let it simmer, afterwards adding two 
 or three ounces of butter, until the liquid has 
 evaporated, and the rice is left quite dry. 
 When cold, mould into balls; insert a spoon, 
 and press the rice in the middle, so as to form 
 a hollow, which fill with minced fowl, moistened 
 slightly with bechamel sauce. Close the open- 
 ing with some more rice, and fry, dipping each 
 ball into egg, and rolling it in bread-crumbs. 
 When of a nice brown, serve with a garnish of 
 fried parsley. Time, half an hour to boil rice; 
 ten minutes to fry croquettes. Probable cost, 
 8d., exclusive of fowl. 
 
 FRANGIPANE. 
 
 Beat six eggs until light, add to them gradu- 
 ally a pint of new milk and two small spoonfuls 
 of flour. Put the mixture over the fire in a 
 clean saucepan, with a quarter of a pound of 
 fine sugar, and when close at the boiling point 
 and thickish, stir in two ounces of crushed rata- 
 fias, a glass of rum or brandy, some grated 
 lemon-rind, and two ounces of butter, browned 
 slightly in a clean pan. This delicious creamy 
 preparation is an excellent substitute for 
 custard. It can be flavoured with vanilla, 
 orange-flower, or coffee, to suit the dish it is 
 wanted for. The French use it to fill tartlets 
 or cover fruit tarts. Probable cost. Is. 3d. for 
 this quantity, exclusive of spirits. 
 
 FRANGIPANE FRITTERS. 
 
 Make a Frangipaue cream by mixing four 
 tggs with one cold floury potato, four ounces of 
 butter, six ounces of sugar, and a quarter of a 
 pound of powdered rataflas. Flavour with a 
 little rum, and bake or steam this until set. 
 Then let it get cold, cut into slices about half 
 an inch thick and one and a half inches long, 
 sprinkle each with a little powdered cinnamon, 
 and make, it quite dry with some powdered 
 sugar. Dip each piece in batter, and fry in 
 boiling oil to a nice brown. Sprinkle some 
 flnely-powdered sugar over them, pile up on a 
 dish, and serve. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 FRANKFORT SAUSAGES. 
 
 Mince very finely one pound of lean pork, 
 from the shoulder, with three ounces of fat 
 bacon; add a little red wine during the minc- 
 ing process, just enough to keep the meat moist. 
 Season with equal quantities of black pepper, 
 and ground coriander-seed, a little nutmeg 
 grated, and salt to taste. Fill skins — ^these 
 should be scrupulously clean, well-soaked in 
 salt and water, and wiped dry before being 
 used. Bread swaked in milk or water, and 
 squeezed dry, is sometimes used, either to 
 increase the quantity, or to make the sausages 
 less rich. Allow the same quantity of bread as 
 of fat. Time to boil, half an hour. Probable 
 cost for this quantity. Is. 3d. 
 
 FRENCH CAKE. 
 
 Mix equal quantities of fine flour and ground 
 rice together — ^half a pound of each. Put these 
 into a bowl, with a pound of finely-sifted sugar, 
 the grated rind of a lemon, and four ounces of 
 sweet, and one of bitter, almonds, pounded to- 
 gether with a table-spoonful of orange-flower 
 water. Beat twelve eggs separately, yolks 
 
 from whites, and then mix with the above in- 
 gredients, until the whole are thoroughly 
 blended. Time, one hour to bake. Probable 
 cost, 2s. 6d. 
 
 FRENCH FRITTERS, BATTER FOR. 
 
 Dissolve two ounces of butter in half a pint 
 of warm milk; blend with it ten ounces of 
 flour, and work it till it is quite smooth. Whisk 
 the whites of two eggs; add them to the batter 
 just before use, as the lightness will depend on 
 this mainly. Season with salt, etc., if for vege- 
 tables; or sweeten with sugar if for frying 
 fruit. Time, ten minutes to fry. Probable 
 cost, 7d. for this quantity. 
 
 FRENCH FRITTERS, BATTER FOR (another way). 
 Mix two large table-spoonfuls of flour with 
 as much warm water as will make it into a stiff 
 paste; beat up the whites and yolks separately 
 of two eggs ; add the yolks to the paste, a table- 
 spoonful of salad-oil, enough sugar to sweeten, 
 and, lastly, the whites of the eggs, which should 
 be a stiff froth before being added. This pre- 
 paration is excellent for fruit fritters, such aa 
 apples, peaches, oranges, etc. Time, about ten 
 minutes to fry with fruit. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 FRENCH GAUFRES. 
 
 Separate eight eggs, yolks from whites; beat 
 the yolks till light, and froth the whites. Put- 
 eight ounces of flour and a quarter of a pound of 
 pounded sugar, with a little salt, into a basin, 
 and mix the beaten yolks of eggs, a glass of 
 noyeau or any liquor preferred, and some 
 pounded vanilla, with the flour; add a pint of 
 whipped cream by slow degrees, and thewhites- 
 of eggs lastly and lightly, that they may be well 
 blended with the whole batter. Heat the 
 gaufre-irons, and smear them with clarified 
 butter, fill with the batter, and bake over a 
 light charcoal fire; turn the irons that the 
 gaufres may be evenly coloured; and when 
 turned out, make them neat with a pair of scis- 
 sors, and dry before the fire on paper. When 
 dry, shake vanilla, orange, or lemon sugar over 
 them, and serve piled high on a napkin. Prob- 
 able cost, 2s. for this quantity. 
 
 FRENCH PANCAKES. 
 
 Beat two ounces of butter to a cream, and 
 beat two eggs till they are light; blend with 
 these two ounces of fine flour, and the same 
 weight of powdered sugar. Add milk very 
 gradually till the mixture is as thick as cream. 
 Bake on buttered tin plates, and beat the mix- 
 ture until it is poured upon them to be put 
 into the oven. Bake a few minutes in a quick 
 oven. Serve piled high on a dish ; a cut lemon 
 and sifted sugar should accompany, or the pan- 
 cakes may have a layer of preserve between 
 each. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for three 
 or four persons. 
 
 FRENCH PIE. 
 
 Line a dish with puff paste, and fill it with a 
 mince of cold roast veal and grated ham ; add 
 two dozen oysters, bearded, which place, with 
 a good seasoning of salt, mace, and lemon-peel, 
 in alternate layers with the meat. Pour in a 
 small cup of gravy, the liquor from the oysters, 
 and a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, 
 mixed together. Cover with paste, and remove 
 
FRE 
 
 228 
 
 FRE 
 
 from the oven wlien the paste is done. Tiine, 
 about half an hour. Probable cost of oysters. 
 Is. 9d. to 2s. per dozen. Two pounds of mince 
 is sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 FRENCH PLUM PUDDING. 
 
 Put half a pound of flour into a basin with 
 about a salt-spoonful of salt; beat up separ- 
 ately four yolks and two whites of eggs ; stir the 
 yolks, with half a pint of cream, into the flour. 
 Boil one pound of good French plums; put 
 boiling water on them, and continue to simmer 
 till the stones will come out easily. Remove 
 the stones; drain off the moisture from the 
 fruit, and stir it and also the frothed whites of 
 eggs, into the batter. Do not boil in a basin; 
 the pudding is best in a floured cloth, which 
 should not be tied too closely, as the contents 
 will swell in boiling. Time, two hours to boil. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 2d. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. 
 
 /^FRENCH PLUM TART. 
 
 Stew French plums with sugar, in the pro- 
 portion of half to the weight of fruit. Put half 
 a pound of plums and a quarter of a pound of 
 sugar, with half a glass of water or red wine, 
 into a stewpan; cover, and stew very gently 
 until the stones can be taken away easily. 
 Crush some of them, and put the kernels with 
 the plums in the stewpan. Edge a dish with 
 puff paste, put in the plums, etc., cover with a 
 paste, bake, and serve hot. Time, three- 
 quarters of an hour to bake. Probable cost. Is. 
 Sufficient for a small tart. 
 
 FRENCH PLUMS, STEWED. 
 
 Put into a clean stewpan enough water to 
 .cover a pound and a half of French plums, stew 
 them for an hour, then strain and boil the 
 water, three-quarters of a pint, with half a 
 pound of sugar. When it has boiled, and been 
 well skimmed, and is quite clear, add the rind 
 and juice of a lemon with the plums, and sim- 
 mer very gently. A glass of port wine will im- 
 prove the flavour and appearance of the fruit, 
 •r.nd may be added at the same time with the 
 plums. Serve in a glass dish. Time to stew, 
 one hour or more, according to the quality; to 
 ;simmer, one hour and a half. Probable cost of 
 ^jlums. Is. per pound. Sufficient for a large 
 -dish. 
 FRENCH PUDDING. 
 
 Mix six ounces of marrow, two ounces each of 
 flour, bread-crumbs, chopped apples, dried 
 cherries, and candied peel, three ounces of 
 sugar, half an ounce of ginger, and the grated 
 rind of a lemon. Moisten with four eggs and a 
 gill of cream, and boil three hours. 
 
 FRENCH ROLL PUDDING. 
 
 Butter a deep dish, and line it with thin 
 slices of buttered French roll, free from crust, 
 and a day or two old, letting the slices overlap. 
 Boil half a pint of milk, and flavour with 
 vanilla when cool. Mix with it the yolks of 
 two eggs and the white of one ; add one ounce 
 of sugar. Moisten the roll gradually with this. 
 Beat the white of the second egg to a stiff 
 froth and incorporate it with the rest of the 
 custard; pour this into the dish, and lay a few 
 more slices of buttered roll on top. Put the 
 
 dish in a tin of hot water, and bake in a steady 
 oven until the bread is nicely browned. Prob- 
 able cost, 8d. 
 
 FRENCH ROLLS. 
 
 Eub together a pound of flour and an ounce 
 of butter ; when well blended mix with the flour 
 and butter a small quantity of yeast with enough 
 milk to form a stiff dough, an egg, and a lixtle 
 salt. Do not knead the dough, but use a 
 wooden spoon, let it rise, and bake on tins. 
 When brown and ready to be taken out of the 
 oven, brush over with beaten egg, and keep the 
 rolls a minute or two longer to dry. Time, from 
 fifteen to twenty minutes to bake. Probable 
 cost, Id. each. Sufficient for six rolls. 
 
 FRENCH SALAD. 
 
 It would be difficult to particularise a French 
 salad. It is composed of everything or any- 
 thing. Many improvised dishes of salad, such 
 as beans, potatoes, cauliflower, and celery 
 (cooked), are served at a French table, seasoned 
 with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar, chopped tarra- 
 gon, or a little tarragon vinegar. Fish salads, 
 too, are highly relished, namely, the remains of 
 any solid fish, such as cod, sole, or turbot, for 
 which the following sauce will be found excel- 
 lent, as it will be also for a lettuce or other 
 vegetable salad. Bruise the yolks of two hard- 
 boiled eggs with a wooden spoon, and moisten 
 with a raw egg; put this egg-mixture into a 
 bowl, with two salt-spoonfuls of salt, a little 
 pepper, and a pinch of cayenne; add by de- 
 grees oil and vinegar, alternately, until the re- 
 quired quantity, three table-spoonfuls of oil 
 and one of vinegar, which may be tarragon, has 
 been mixed. Keep the sauce stirred and well 
 smoothed with the spoon. Add half a tea-spoon- 
 ful of shredded onion, and the same of chervil 
 and tarragon, if plain vinegar has been used 
 with the . oil. Two table-spoonfuls of thick 
 cream or melted butter will make the sauce 
 richer and better, and the whites of eggs may 
 be chopped and added to the salad. 
 
 FRENCH SOUFFLE. 
 
 Put into a clean saucepan over the fire a piece 
 of butter, the size of a small egg; and stir it, 
 with two table-spoonfuls of flour. When thick 
 (it must not brown), have ready half a pint of 
 boiling milk and two table-spoonfuls of cream, 
 and stir the whole together. Pour it into a 
 bowl when smooth and thick, and flavour with 
 maraschino, noyeau, or to taste. Beat up the 
 yolks of five eggs, with two ounces of pounded 
 sugar; add them, with the whites of eight eggs 
 whisked to a stiff froth, and bake carefully in a 
 souffle dish. Time, about one hour. Probable 
 cost. Is. 3d. for this quantity. 
 
 FRENCH TIMBALE. 
 
 Line a round well-buttered mould with short 
 paste, and put a thin layer of forcemeat to cor- 
 respond, composed of calf's liver and bacon 
 pounded, and highly seasoned with mace, nut- 
 meg, lemon-peel, marjoram, thyme, and a 
 couple of cloves of garlic (the bacon and liver 
 should be semi-fried separately before being 
 pounded), cayenne pepper, and salt. Lard a 
 piece of thei fillet of veal, about three pounds, 
 and cut it in thick slices across the grain of the 
 meat. Fill up the mould with alternate layers 
 
FRI 
 
 
 FRU 
 
 of the veal, small thin slices of boiled ham, and 
 the forcemeat, not forgetting to season with 
 herbs and spices as above. Eoll out paste for a 
 cover; see that it is even round the edge, and 
 securely closed; pinch it round with pastry 
 pincers. Make an ornanient of leaves with some 
 of the paste, brush with egg, and bake in a 
 moderate oven. When done, and the heat has 
 passed from it, pour in through the top a thin 
 glaze made from the bones and trimmings of 
 veal and some jelly of calf's foot. Time, two 
 hours and a half to bake. Probable cost of 
 veal. Is. 4d. per pound. SuflS.cient for seven 
 or eight persons. 
 
 FRIAR'S CHICKEN SOUP. 
 
 Cut up three nice plump chickens, or a couple 
 of young fowls. Put them into a saucepan, with 
 some clear stock, if it can be obtained, or two 
 quarts of water. Shred some parsley, and when 
 the chickens are suiBciently cooked, take them 
 up, and keep them hot. Throw in the parsley, 
 simmer a few minutes longer, when stir in the 
 wnole of four well-beaten eggs, and remove at 
 once from the fire. Flavour to taste with salt 
 and pepper. Serve with the chicken in the 
 tureen. 
 
 FRIAR'S OMELET. 
 
 Make a light batter of three eggs, two table- 
 spoonfuls of butter (melted), two of sugar, and 
 half a dozen stewed apples, reduced to a pulp. 
 When well beaten together, fry "as an omelet 
 in butter. Time, ten minutes. Probable cost, 8d, 
 
 FRICANOEAU. 
 
 Take three pounds of fillet of veal, 
 trimmed, and larded with fat bacon. Put the 
 trimmings in a stewpan, with a sliced carrot, a 
 sliced onion, and pepper and salt to taste. Lay 
 the veal on top; add half a pint of broth or 
 veal stock; boil till it is reduced and becomes 
 thick and yellow; add a pint and a half more 
 broth or stock, and simmer for an hour and a 
 quarter, with the stewpan half covered. Then 
 close the vessel, lifting the lid every five min- 
 utes to baste with the gravy, until the meat 
 is su£Scie.utly glazed; then take it out and 
 place it on a dish. Strain the gravy, skim off 
 the fat, and pour over the meat. Probable 
 cost, 3s. to 4s. {StR also Veaii, Feicandbau of.) 
 
 FRICANDELLE, BOILED. 
 
 Use any meat for this dish. If veal, chop 
 the fat and lean together; but if mutton, re- 
 move the fat, and take butter instead. Chop 
 one pound of cold roast veal, season with pep- 
 per, salt, and a little nutmeg. Mix bread- 
 crumbs, and break an ounce of butter into bits 
 with them ; add a little good veal gravy, and a 
 couple of eggs. Mix well, and press into a but- 
 tered mould. When boiled, the fricandelle 
 should be turned out, and served with a brown 
 gravy over it. Time to boil, one hour. Prob- 
 able cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold meat Suf- 
 ficient, one pound of meat for two or three 
 persons. 
 
 FRICANDELLES, FRIED. 
 
 Mince first, and then pound together, beef 
 and suet, in the proportion of a quarter of a 
 pound of suet to onc'^ound of meat. Eoast, 
 or any cold beef may be used, but uncooked 
 
 meat is best. Smooth to a paste with an egg 
 or two, and a little water. Add three ounces 
 of fine bread-crumbs, a little shredded onion, 
 salt, and pepper. Make into egg-shaped balls, 
 and fry in butter to a delicate brown; or, they 
 may be baked with a mixture of mashed pota- 
 toes as a substitute for bread, and fat bacon 
 instead of suet. Time, ten minutes to fry. 
 Beef, Is. per pound. 
 
 FRICASSEE CHAUDFROID. 
 
 Put a nice plump chicken, trussed as for 
 boiling, into a saucepan, with a quart of veal 
 stock, and boil and skim in the usual way. 
 When done, put the chicken on a dish, and boil 
 a pint of the stock with a few mushrooms, until 
 reduced; then, with the stewpan removed from 
 the fire, stir in the beaten yolks of four eggs, 
 and half a pint of cream. Season well with 
 nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and stir in the juice 
 of half a lemon, and a tea-spoonful of pounded 
 sugar. Stir over the fire for a little time, but 
 do not boil. The chicken should be cut up and 
 piled high in the centre of a dish, and covered 
 with the sauce. Let it become cold and firm, 
 then garnish with aspic jelly. 
 
 FRITTERS (plain). 
 
 Beat up two eggs in a quarter of a pint of 
 milk; strain, and mix with two ounces of flour 
 into a very smooth batter. Beat this well, 
 and drop the mixture, a dessert-spoonful at a 
 time, into boiling lard, and fry to a light goldeD 
 colour. Turn on to kitchen paper to drain, and 
 serve very hot with pounded sugar and cub 
 lemon, or jam, as preferred. 
 
 FROMAGE CUIT. ' 
 
 Moisten eight or ten ounces of good cheese,, 
 broken into small bits, with half a pint of thick 
 cream. Rub it smooth in a mortar, and add two 
 eggs, with the white of one, both beaten to- 
 gether, and a pinch of cayenne. Bake in a 
 moderate oven for fifteen minutes. Probable 
 cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 FROST, OR ICING, FOR CAKES. 
 
 Put two pounds of what is called Icing sugar 
 into a bowl, and mix with it the whites only of 
 two, or, if necessary, of three eggs, or even 
 four, and a few drops of lemon-juice. The 
 fewer eggs the bett-er. The egg-whites must 
 not be beaten. iStir the sugar vigorously till 
 there is a smooth thick paste that will not run ; 
 this will call for both strength and patience. 
 Lay the icing on the cake with hands dipped 
 frequently into cold water, and smooth it with 
 an ivory knife dipped in cold water. Let it 
 harden in a cool oven. 
 
 FROTH, TO SET ON CREAMS, CUSTARD, ETC. 
 
 Beat the whites of four or five eggs to a 
 froth; stew damsons, or any other fruit, until 
 they can be pulped through a sieve, then beat 
 the pulp with the frothed eggs until the fork 
 will stand upright in it. Put it with a spoon 
 on the top of trifle, cream, or custard ; it should 
 look rocky, so put it on as roughly as possible. 
 Time, beat until the whole is a stiff froth. 
 
 FRUIT BISCUITS. 
 
 Make a paste as follows : mix thoroughly the 
 yolks of two eggs, and four ounces of sugar. 
 When smooth add four ounces of flour, one egg. 
 
FRU 
 
 230 
 
 FRU 
 
 and a little salt, and last of all, the two whites 
 of eggs, whisked till firm. Spread the paste on 
 a lined baking-tin ; it should be rather less than 
 an inch thick. Bake in a moderate oven, and 
 when cool cut into fingers. Rub a cupful of 
 strawberries or raspberries through a fine sieve, 
 and mix with the pulp castor sugar to make a 
 stiff paste. Spread this upon the biscuits, and 
 dry in a cool oven. 
 
 FRUIT CAKE. 
 
 To make a rich fruit cake which will keep for 
 a year or more, rub one pound of sugar and 
 x)ne pound of butter together to a cream, and 
 add half a tea-cupful of treacle. Beat the 
 -whites and yolks of ten eggs separately, and 
 judd them to the butter and sugar; then by 
 -degrees put in two- thirds of a pound of flour 
 with a tearspoonful of cream of tartar sifted 
 in it. Dissolve half a tea-spoonful of carbon- 
 ate of soda in a little boiling water, and add it 
 also, then a tea-spoonful of ground cloves, half 
 a tea-spoonful of mace, one grated nutmeg, a 
 wineglass of brandy, the juice and grated rind 
 of a lemon, and, last of all, one pound of 
 raisins stoned and chopped, and two pounds of 
 currants, well picked over, mixed with one-third 
 of a pound of flour. Have ready half a pound 
 of citron cut in thin slices. Put a layer of the 
 cake into the baking-tin, then a layer of citron, 
 and so on until the cake is all in. Bake in a 
 moderate oven for at least three hours. Prob- 
 able cost, 4s. 
 
 FRUIT, COMPOTE OF (i la Genoese). 
 
 This is a good mode of serving fruit in a case 
 of Genoese pastry. Take a Genoese cake (see 
 Genoese Cake), cut off the bottom, and hollow 
 out the interior by means of a cutter; or the 
 cake may be cut in slices. Various fruits may 
 be used, the idea being to make the outside 
 ornamental, and to see that the colours contrast 
 well with the fruits. Mask the cake over with 
 glace icing, or whipped cream, and sprinkle it 
 with green and mauve sugar. Either of these 
 colours alone might be used, or yellow might be 
 added for a third. The case should be set in a 
 ■cold place, and filled with fruit just before 
 "being sent to the table. The fruit is preferably 
 iced, whatever the kind. It should show well 
 above the top of the case, and may be orna- 
 mented with cream in spots of colour to match 
 the sides. Probable cost, 4s. 
 
 FRUIT, COMPOTE OF MIXED. 
 
 Boil ten ounces of sugar and half a pint of 
 water ten minutes ; take the stalks from a quart 
 of red currants and let them simmer with the 
 same quantity of raspberries from eight to ten 
 minutes in the syrup. Get ripe but sound 
 raspberries, and see that they are free from 
 moisture before they are put into the syrup. 
 
 FRUIT CREAM FOR TARTS. 
 
 A very nice cream for fruit tarts is made by 
 boiling peach- or bay-leaves (to extract their 
 flavour) in milk. Two or three leaves in a 
 quart of milk will be sufficient. Boil until 
 flavoured ; add, when strained and sweetened, 
 four well-whisked eggs; heat it, stirring 
 steadily until thick, - but it must not boil. 
 Tliis cream is eaten also with stewed fruit of 
 any kind. 
 
 FRUIT CREAMS. 
 
 Take half a pound of any kind of fruit. 
 Stone fruit should be sliced and stoned; berries 
 should be stalked. Boil with two ounces of 
 sugar until quite tender, then rub through a 
 sieve, and set aside to cool. Whip a quarter of 
 a pint of thick cream to a stiff froth, and mix 
 the fruit pulp with it. Pour the mixture into 
 custard glasses, and serve. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 FRUIT CUSTARD. 
 
 Bring a quart of new milk to boiling point, 
 and sweeten to taste. Mix a table-spoonful of 
 cornflour with sufficient cold milk to make a 
 stiff paste, then pour the boiling milk on to 
 this. Stir well; then replace over fire and 
 stir till it slightly thickens; withdraw it, and 
 beat in three eggs, one at a time, taking care 
 that the mixture is not at boiling point, or 
 the eggs will curdle. Carefully pick over half 
 a pound of raspberries or sfn-awberries, put 
 them in a glass dish, and sprinkle with castor 
 sugar, and pour over them the custard, which 
 must be left to set. When cold, scatter another 
 half-pound of fruit on top, sprinkle with castor 
 sugar, and serve with cream. Any other fruit 
 may be substituted, if liked. Early rhubarb 
 cut up and stewed and served in this way is 
 always liked; so, too, are stewed apples, and 
 a very delicious dish may be made by the use 
 of bananas cut into thin slioes. In using 
 bananas, put alternate layers of the fruit and 
 of the custard, the whole being left to set. 
 Cost, 9d. to Is., according to price of eggs. 
 
 FRUIT, DISH OF MIXED. 
 
 In the months of September and October the 
 most fastidious fancy may be gratified through 
 the facility afforded of collecting a variety of 
 mixed fruits for a centre dish. The beauty even 
 of fine fruit is enhanced when it is tastefully 
 dished, and its form and colour are shown to 
 advantage. One ornament for the centre of a 
 dinner-table is a large gilt basket of some 
 graceful shape, filled with every kind of fruit, 
 interspersed with moss and fern-leaves. Apples, 
 pears, peaches, pine-apples, and grapes would 
 form a lovely combination for autumn fruits, 
 the crevices filled up with scarlet geraniums and 
 maidenhair fern ; this for a centre-piece, sur- 
 rounded by specimen glasses, with a rose or 
 camellia in each, would form a most attractive 
 coup d'ceil. There are so many ways, however, 
 of displaying taste in dressing the centre of a 
 table and of arranging fruit desserts, that it is 
 best left to each individual fancy. Suffice it to 
 say, that the dish should never be too full, and 
 always garnished in some way, either with 
 leaves or tiny sprays of flowers, or even em- 
 broidered paper, which can be bought for the 
 purpose, and that all fruit intended for table 
 should be carefully wiped with a cloth before 
 being arranged on the dish. 
 
 FRUIT DRINK. 
 
 To each pound of picked fruit allow half a 
 pound of sifted sugar. Mash the fruit well, 
 place it in a saucepan, and add to each pound 
 of it three-quarters of a pint of water. Sim- 
 mer gently for half an hour, strain through a 
 jelly-bag, and bottle. If required to be kept 
 for any length of time, a wine-glassful of 
 
FRU 
 
 231 
 
 FRU 
 
 brandy to each quart of syrup must be added 
 to prevent fermentation. A small quantity of 
 lemon-juice is an improvement. 
 
 FRUIT FRITTERS, BATTER FOR. 
 
 Fruit fritters are made by frying fruit which 
 has been dipped in batter, in hot fat, and drain- 
 ing well before serving. The following recipe 
 will serve for many kinds of fruits, and also for 
 vegetables. Warm half a pint of milk, in which 
 stir two ounces of butter; make it into a bat- 
 ter, with about ten ounces of flour. Sweeten .to 
 taste, and flavour with nutmeg, cinna"mon, etc., 
 and a glass of any liqueur or brandy. Stir in the 
 whites of two egga well whisked, and fry at 
 once, in hot dripping or lard. Fruits such as 
 pineapple, apple, orange, peach, etc., should 
 be cut in slices, dipped in the batter, fried 
 nicely, and when dried before the fire, strewed 
 with sifted sugar. Such fruits as strawberries, 
 cherries, apricots, and raspberries, should be 
 thrown into the batter, and a spoonful poured 
 into the boiling fat; all stones must be pre- 
 viously removed. For frying vegetables, mix 
 into the batter, in the place of sugar, etc;, 
 savoury herbs and salt. Time, two or three 
 minutes to fry. Sufficient for four or five per- 
 sons. {See also Batter fob Fetino Meat, 
 Fish, Fetjit, etc.) 
 
 FRUIT FRITTERS, BATTER FOR (another and 
 richer way). 
 Beat the yolks and whites of two eggs separ- 
 ately, add half a pint of cream, a little salt and 
 enough flour to form a thick batter ; beat until 
 smooth, and put in fruit as above ; fry in boiling 
 fat, and dry before the fire on a sieve. Serve on 
 a napkin, with white sugar sifted over the frit- 
 ters. Time, about three minutes to fry. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. Sufficient for'four or five persons. 
 
 FRUIT (Gateau de Pommes). 
 
 Put some ripe red currants into a jar and set 
 it in boiling water, or in the oven, to draw out 
 the juice. Put one pound of the juice into a 
 -preserviBg-pan, with, one pound and a. half of 
 fine ripe codlings, which should be peeled, and 
 have the cores carefully and wholly extracted. 
 When they have boiled slowly about half an 
 hour, and can be easily pulped, and the mixture 
 is quite smooth, add the same weight of 
 powdered sugar as of apples. Stir until the 
 sugar has dissolved, then boil fast the remainder 
 of the time, taking care to keep the contents 
 from burning at the bottom of the pan. If put 
 into a mould the fruit will keep many months. 
 It may be served turned out, ornamented with 
 cut blanched almonds, and with a whipped 
 cream round it. Garnish with light-coloured 
 apple jelly for dessert. 
 FRUIT IN BRANDY. 
 
 First clarify as much sugar as will be re- 
 quired — allow one pound of sugar to every two 
 pounds of fruit. Break the sugar into lumps, 
 and dip them into cold water; this water will be 
 sufficient for the clarifying process. Put the 
 moistened sugar into a preserving-pan, heat it 
 slowly, and after it comes to a boil, simmer 
 gently. When beads form on the surface, the 
 liquid is ready for the fruit; lay in two pounds 
 of peaches, apricots, or plums, but only keep 
 them in long enough to be softened ; be careful 
 
 they do hot crack. Set them to cool for a fevir 
 hovirs, then take out the fruit on a sieve to 
 drain, and boil the syrup until it is thick; let 
 it grow cold, and pour it, with an equal quan- 
 tity of pale brandy, over the fruit, which should 
 previously have been placed in glasses. 
 
 FRUIT ISINGLASS JELLY, 
 
 Get the juice from China oranges and a little 
 lemon-juice or Seville orange juice, about a 
 quart in all^of the latter, however, only enough 
 to give a pleasant sharpness. Strain the juice 
 ■through a double muslin bag, and again 
 through a flannel one. Have ready, in an en- 
 amelled saucepan, one ounce and a half of the 
 best isinglass, dissolved in a little water; stir 
 in half a pound of finely-sifted sugar and a few 
 bits of the orange-rind, and simmer and skim, 
 but do not let the liquid boil ; add the juice and 
 simmer again; then strain through muslin, 
 made thick by being doubled three or four 
 times. When nearly cold, fill moulds with the 
 jelly. It should be quite clear wh?n turned out. 
 If it is not so, it may be clarified according to 
 directions already given. {See Gale's Foot 
 Jelly.) 
 
 FRUIT, JUICE OF. 
 
 For ordinary household purposes the fruit is 
 better pulped. Squeeze out with a wooden 
 spoon all the juice and pulp of any fruit, and 
 strain it through a coarse wire sieve, which will 
 not pass the skins or seeds. To every pound 
 add four ounces of refined sugar. Put into 
 pickle-bottles, and place them up to the neck 
 in a pan of water. Boil, and let the bottles 
 remain in the water till cold. Cork tightly and 
 cover the corks with resin or wax. Time to 
 boil, half an hour from the time the water 
 commences to boil. To ascertain any required 
 quantity of fruit juice for preserving, weigh it, 
 for it is thus much more correctly tested than 
 by measure. Weigh first the vessel intended to 
 hold the juice, and then the juice itself. 
 
 FRUIT, LEMON, IN CREAM. 
 
 Eub off on lump sugar the rind of two lemons ; 
 add this, with the strained juice, to one pint of 
 cream, six ounces of sugar, and one dessert- 
 spoonful of brandy; mix these ingredients well 
 together, and freeze them in an ice-pot, stir- 
 ring them with a wooden spoon. Time, half 
 an hour for the freezing process. Cost, 2s. 6d. 
 Enough for eight glasses. 
 
 FRUIT, MACEDOINE OF. 
 
 Set a jelly-mould into a pail of rough ice and 
 salt, and arrange the fruits according to fancy, 
 between layers of clear well-sweetened jelly, 
 flavoured with some liqueur, as noyeau or mar- 
 aschino. If the jelly be poured into the mould 
 an hour before it is required, the outside will 
 be sufficiently frozen, and the inner part will be 
 as firm as can be desired. When removed from 
 the ice-pail, turn out the jelly on a glass dish, 
 first dipping the mould into tepid water, which 
 will loosen it immediately. The mould should 
 be covered while in the ice, and the top or cover 
 hid from sight by more ice and salt. 
 
 FRUIT PASTES. 
 
 These pastes are prepared by stoning the 
 fruits, and pulping them, after slowly boiling, 
 
FRU 
 
 232 
 
 FRU 
 
 througli a sieve. The pulp is then returned to 
 the pan to dry up the moisture, when sugar is 
 added equal in weight to the paste; it is again 
 mixed well, and dried slowly, until no impres- 
 sion can be made upon it. Spread out on 
 plates, which should be wetted with brandy.- 
 When cold, store between layers of paper. 
 Pastes made from elder fruit and black cur- 
 rants are excellent, considered medicinally. 
 
 FRUiT PASTIES OR TURNOVERS. 
 
 Boil down fruit of any kind with a littlo 
 sugar, and let it grow cold. Take one pound 
 of puff paste ; cut it into as many pieces as you 
 require pasties ; roll out in a circular form, and 
 put the fruit on one half, turn the other half 
 over on the fruit and pinch the edge, which 
 should be first wetted with white of egg. Raw 
 fruit may be used, but in this case the paste 
 must be thicker, and not quite so rich. Time 
 to bake, twenty minutes. SufGlcient for one 
 dozen and a half. 
 
 FRUIT PIE (for invalids). 
 
 The rich crusts usually made for fruit tarts 
 are hig:hly indigestible, and should not be eaten 
 by delicate persons. As a light substitute for 
 pastry, the following recipe will be found use- 
 ful. Cover the bottom of a pie-dish with rather 
 thick slices of spongecake. If small ones be 
 used, make only two slices of them, and lay the 
 brown part downwards in the dish. Fill up 
 with any seasonable fruit, and strew amongst 
 it as much fine sugar as will be required to 
 sweeten. Pour in water nearly even with the 
 fruit, and make a cover with the remaining 
 slices of spongecake.. Bake in a moderate oven 
 for forty minutes. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 FRUIT PUDDING PASTE. 
 
 Chop six ounces of fresh suet as fine as can 
 be, mix it with one pound of flour and a little 
 salt. Knead it lightly, and make it into a 
 smooth firm paste, with water. Roll out twice ; 
 the quicker this is done the lighter will be the 
 paste. Time, a quarter of an hour to prepare. 
 Probable cost, 5d. Sufficient for six or seven 
 persons. 
 
 FRUIT PUDDINGS. 
 
 Butter a mould or basin, and line it with a 
 Buet crust; three-quarters of a pound of flour, 
 with four ounces of suet, will do for this pur- 
 pose. Fill with fruit, and put in sugar, with a 
 little water if the fruit requires it. Add a 
 cover of paste, and press the edges closely to- 
 gether. Tie down with a floured cloth and put 
 into boiling water. Some persons prefer to boil 
 a pudding in a cloth, and for some fruits — those 
 without much juice — this answers very well. 
 Dip the cloth into hot water; and the better to 
 form the pudding, stretch the cloth on a basin, 
 lay the paste over, and fill with fruit. Time to 
 boil, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 4d., 
 exclusive of fruit. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 FRUIT SALAD. 
 
 This pleasant dish can be made either with 
 berries, guch as strawberries, raspberries, and 
 currants, or with sliced pineapple, peaches, 
 apricots, bananas, oranges, etc. In either case 
 
 the mode of preparation is the same. Arrange 
 the fruit in layers in a deep glass bowl, sprini- 
 ling sugar over each layer. Just before serv- 
 ing pour half a pint of Madeira over, and a 
 wineglass of Benedictine or Cura^oa. 
 
 FRUIT SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS. 
 
 Boil in a quarter of a pint of water double 
 that quantity of fruit (raspberries, strawberries, 
 or currants do well for this sauce), and four 
 ounces of good sugar. Take off the scum as it 
 rises, and when the juice looks rich, and is 
 thickish, "Strain, and serve it over the pudding. 
 This sauce may be made from preserved fruits, 
 when fruit is out of season. 
 
 FRUIT SOUFFLE. 
 
 Split, peel, and stone a dozen fine ripe apri- 
 cots, put them into a preserving-pan, with half 
 a pint of water and half a pound of sifted sugar. 
 Keep them simmering gently, until the apricots 
 can be pulped and beaten through a fine sieve ; 
 then mix together four ounces of flour and half 
 a pint of cream; add it to the pulped apricots, 
 with two ounces of butter, and stir over the 
 fire until the whole boils. Take the mixture off 
 the fire, and stir in six beaten yolks of eggs, and 
 lastly nine whites whisked to a firm froth. Have 
 ready a souffie dish, with a band of paper 
 above to allow of. its rising a great deal, which 
 it will do if the above instructions are carefully 
 carried out. Bake in a moderate heat, and 
 turn the dish about that all parts of the souffle 
 may be alike. Time, three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 FRUIT, STEWED. 
 
 Every one who has lived on the Continent 
 must have appreciated the various compotes of 
 fruit that are so readily and easily prepared, and 
 must have recognised their superiority over 
 stewed fruit prepared by the English method. 
 Almost all kinds of fruit may be treated in the 
 foreign style, and if served with macaroni or 
 rice, are excellent, and much more wholesome 
 than pastry tarts. The principal point lies in 
 the preparation of the syrup; the best refined 
 sugar should be used, but as the fruits are for 
 use within the next two or three days, they do 
 not require much, which is very economical. 
 Various recipes are given under the names of 
 different fruits. 
 
 FRUIT SUET PUDDING. 
 
 Take equal quantities of flour and finely- 
 prepared bread-crumbs, a quarter of a pound of 
 each, put them into a bowl; add four ounces of 
 shredded suet and two ounces of sugar;. moisten 
 with a cup of milk, and beat until smooth ; then 
 sprinkle and mix into the batter four ounces of 
 well-washed currants, with a tea-spoonful of 
 grated ginp;er and one of salt. Boil in a floured 
 cloth, not in a mould. Time, two hours to boil. 
 Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for three or more 
 persons. 
 
 FRUIT SWEET SAUCES. 
 
 Stone some plums or cherries, having first 
 washed them in cold water. Break the stones, 
 blanch the kernels, and. boil them gently in a 
 very little water. Stew the fruit until quite 
 tender with about a glassful of red wine, and a 
 little cinnamon, powdered. When it is tender, 
 add a piece of bread, toasted, and the water 
 
jFRU 
 
 233 
 
 FRY 
 
 from the kernelSj and stew until all can be 
 pulped through a sieve. Sugar may be mixed 
 according to taste, and the sauce may be 
 thinned with wine or water. 
 
 FRUIT TARTS, PRESERVED. 
 
 Ijine a. dish with puff paste, and fill with any 
 kind of preserved fruit; lay bars across, cut 
 them with a tin-cutter; finish off neatly by 
 laying an edging of paste round the border, and 
 ornamenting it tastefully. Bake a very light 
 brown. 
 
 FRUIT, TO BOTTLE. 
 
 Currants, gooseberries, and other fruit may be 
 thus preserved. After freeing them from 
 stalks, put them into wide-mouthed glass bot- 
 tles, and shake them that the bottles may be 
 full ; place the receptacles, lightly corked, into a 
 nearly cold oven for four or five hours. When 
 the fruit shrivels, remove it from the oven, and 
 cork the bottles tightly and quickly, tying down 
 securely with leather. Keep in a dry place. 
 
 FRUIT, TO BOTTLE, WITH SUGAR. 
 
 Procure the fruit dry and sound, and drop it 
 gently into bottles (those with wide mouths and 
 glass stoppers are the best); put the bottles in 
 a kettle of water, but do not wet the corks ; let 
 them stay till the fruits are ready to burst, then 
 put in the corks, and wax them over to exclude 
 the air. The bottles must be kept in a dry 
 place. Gooseberries, plums, currants, can all 
 be done in this way. 
 FRUIT, TO CANDY. 
 
 Make a syrup with one poimd of good sugar 
 and half a, tea-cupful of water. "When boiling, 
 put in any preserved fruits, and stir gently 
 until they get crystallised ; then take them out, 
 and dry them in an oven or before the fire, but 
 do not let them get coloured. 
 
 FRUIT TURNOVERS. 
 
 Stew half a pound of any desired fruit with 
 three ounces of sugar until nearly all the juice 
 is absorbed, and set it aside to cool. Make 
 some puff paste with half a pound of flour, and 
 other ingredients in proportion {see Piiff Paste, 
 Household), roll it out thin, and stamp it out 
 into rounds. Lay some of the stewed fruit on 
 the half of each round, turn the other half 
 over, and press the edges together, wetting 
 them with a little water or white of egg to 
 make them stick. Bake in a moderate oven 
 for fifteen to twenty minutes. 
 
 FRUIT, VOL-AU-VENT OF. 
 
 This is an exceedingly delicate branch of 
 cookery, and requires much skill and care. A 
 vol-au-vent should be made of French puff 
 paste (see Puff Paste, French). Brush the 
 paste over with lemon-juice before folding for 
 the last time. Eoll out to the desired thick- 
 ness, and place the paste on a baking-tin. Cut 
 into shape with a tin-cutter or plate, and brush 
 the centre with white of egg, leaving a margin 
 all round unmoistened, that it may rise the 
 better. Make a deep incision, an inch from 
 the edge, in a circular form ; separate the edges 
 well, without cutting quite through, and put 
 the paste to rise in a good brisk oven. When 
 sufficiently risen, lift off the middle portion that 
 was marked out, and scoop out the dough, with- 
 
 out cutting quite through or injuring the edge. 
 Fill the hollow with bread, and put the vol-au- 
 vent again into the oven. Brush over with egg, 
 and cover with sifted sugar; when done, take 
 out the bread, and put strawberries or rasp- 
 berries, beaten up and mixed with pounded 
 sugar, on the inside of the vol-au-vent. Serve 
 with whipped cream over the top. Time, to 
 bake, three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 FRUIT WAFERS, FOR DESSERT. 
 
 Extract the juice from cherries, currants, or 
 any kind of fruit, by putting them into a jar 
 in the oven, or by standing the jar in boiling 
 water. To every pound of juice add the same 
 weight of sugar, and stir over a slow fire until 
 the juice becomes thick ; then butter some 
 papers, and cover with the mixture, which keep 
 in a slow oven until they loosen from the paper, 
 and can be turned. Dry thoroughly, and cut 
 into shapes. Keep in a box, each layer divided 
 by paper; they are best if kept near a fire. 
 
 FRUITS, TINNED. 
 
 Tinned fruits should be turned out on to a 
 dish immediately the tin is opened. Most of 
 these fruits, such as pineapples, peaches, apri- 
 cots, and pears, can be served just as they are, 
 or with clotted cream. A few preserved 
 cherries and a little chopped angelica immensely 
 improve the appearance of the dish. 
 
 FRUMENTY. 
 
 To a quarter of a pint of wheat that has 
 been boiled tender in milk, but not pulped, add 
 a quart of new milk or cream, a piece of cinna- 
 mon, equal quantities of sugar and well-washed 
 currants — three ounces of ,each — and boil for 
 fifteen minutes longer. Take the mixture off 
 the fire, and stir in (if only milk be used) the 
 beaten yolks of three eggs and a glass of 
 brandy; send to table in a junket bowl, to be 
 served in cups. If cream is used, the eggs will 
 not be required. Time to boil wheat, from 
 three to four hours. Probable cost, Is. 
 FRY, TO. 
 
 There are two kinds of frying — wet frying and 
 dry frying. A familiar example of the former 
 is 'seen in the frying of fish, and of the latter 
 in the frying of ham or bacon. To fry fish is 
 to boil it in hot fat, and this operation is too 
 frequently badly performed by those who en- 
 gage in it, owing to ignorance on their part with 
 regard to two or three points which require close 
 attention. Whej well done it is a satisfactory 
 mode of cooking not only fish but small por- 
 tions of meat and poultry, and is generally well 
 liked. When despatch is necessary, it is the 
 most convenient method, as by its means heat 
 can be made to act on food most expeditiously. 
 The fat for frying, whether dripping, skim- 
 mings of saucepans, oil, lard, or butter, should 
 be sweet, clean, fresh, and free from salt. The 
 latter qualification is desirable, because salt 
 keeps whatever is fried in it from browning 
 properly. Fresh sweet dripping and the clari- 
 fied skimmings of saucepans are to be pre- 
 ferred to any other fat for frying. Lard is not 
 BO good, .because it leaves the appearance of 
 fat on whatever is cooked in it, and this does 
 not look well. Butter heats very quickly, and 
 so there is danger of burning when it is used; 
 
FRY 
 
 234 
 
 GAL 
 
 it also requires a slow fire, but is not so ob- 
 jectionable if it is clarified before being put 
 into the pan. Oil, whicli is often spoken of as 
 the best thing for this purpose, is certainly 
 very good, but it requires great care and ex- 
 perience. It should be heated gently over a 
 slow fire, as it has a tendency to rise quickly 
 and boil over, and it must have at least twenty- 
 five minutes' heating before it is ready for use. 
 All fat after being used for frying should be 
 allowed to cool for a few minutes, and then 
 should be strained through a gravy-strainer into 
 a clean earthenware jar. The same fat may, 
 with care, be used several times. When it 
 acquires a dark brown burnt colour it is no 
 longer fit for use. Care should be taken that 
 fat which has been once used for fish should be 
 kept exclusively for that purpose, and not used 
 for anything else. The fire under the frying-pan 
 must be clear, brisk, and free from smoke and 
 flame. 'A mixture of cinders and coke make a 
 Are most suited for this purpose. A handful of 
 salt thrown upon it will help to make it clear. 
 There ought properly to be two frying-panfe for 
 
 GALANTINE OF PIGEONS. 
 
 use in each kitchen — and one of these should be 
 kept exclusively for fish. A proper frying- 
 kettle is deep, and is made -with a wire drainer 
 fitting into it, which can be lifted in and out 
 by handles. When this is not at hand, an 
 ordinary iron stewpan may be used instead. 
 Dry frying — that is, frying with a small quan- 
 tity of dripping or butter — is done in a shallow 
 frying-pan. Whatever kind of pan is used, 
 however, the cook should see that it is perfectly 
 clean, and free from damp and dust. It should 
 never be more than half-filled with fat, for fear 
 it should rise too high in the pan, and boil 
 over. One great secret of success in frying is, 
 to allow the fat to attain the proper degree of 
 heat before placing whatever is to be cooked in 
 it. For ordinary purposes the temperature 
 should reach 345° Fahrenheit. Fat is of the 
 proper temperature when it ceases hissing, 
 and is still. In order to be quite cer- 
 tain on this point, hold a small piece 
 of bread in the pan for five or six seconds. 
 If, when it is taken out, it is crisp and brown, 
 put in immediately what you wish to cook; if 
 the bread is burnt, the fat is too hot; if it is 
 pale and soft, it is not hot enough. All fish 
 which is to be fried requires a certain amount 
 of preparation. After being washed and gutted, 
 it must be well dried. To ensure this, it should 
 first be patted all over with a soft cloth, and 
 afterwards dredged with flour. The preparation 
 should then be finished in one of two ways. 
 The first is to dip the fish into an egg, which 
 has been well beaten for three or four minutes, 
 and mixed with a tea-spoonful of oil and a tea- 
 spoonful of cold water, and then to cover it all 
 
 over with bread-crumbs made from stale bread, 
 which has been finely grated. The second is to 
 dip it into a batter made of flour and water of 
 the consistency of thick cream; this batter is 
 improved by the addition of a beaten egg, 
 though it is very good without. For inex- 
 perienced cooks the latter plan is much the best. 
 It is well to have at hand some light brown 
 bread-raspings, such as are used for hams. 
 After drying, flouring, egging, and bread- 
 crumbing the fish, sprinkle a few of these crumbj 
 lightly over the top, and press them down with 
 the fingers. They will ensure the appearance 
 being good; and, if after cooking, any spot is 
 deficient,' sprinkle a few more on that place. 
 The fat in which fish rissoles, croquettes, pat- 
 ties, cutlets, and all similar articles are fried, 
 should be sufficiently deep to cover them en- 
 tirely, so that they may truly be said to be 
 boiled in hot fat. The time required for frying 
 depends upon the nature' of the article and the 
 depth of the fat, so that no rule can be given. 
 By experience the cook will soon be able to tell 
 when it is done enough, tastly, it must be re- 
 nteinbered, that all fried dishes, when served 
 without sauce, should be dried thoroughly be- 
 fore being sent to table. To accomplish this, 
 wrap them in blotting-paper, or place them on 
 it reversed sieve, or in a cloth before the fire, 
 and turn them two or three times, so that each 
 side may be equally dried. 
 
 GALA PUDDING (sometimes called General Satis- 
 faction Pudding\ 
 Take three eggs, separate the whites from the 
 yolks, beat the latter well, mix with them a 
 cupful of boiling milk, flavoured with lemon, 
 and add a table-spoonful of sugar, a piece of 
 butter the size of a walnut ; pour this custar(\ 
 into a stewpan, simmer gently, stirring all the 
 time, until it thickens. Line the edge of a pie- 
 dish with a good crust. Three parts fill it with 
 slices of spongecake, spread with apricot, 
 strawberry, or any other jam. Pour the cus- 
 tard over them, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 When the pudding is sufficiently cooked, lay on 
 it the whites of three eggs, beaten to a firm 
 froth, and sprinkle a dessert-spoonful of white 
 sugar upon this. Put it into the oven a few 
 minutes longer, then serve. Time, fifteen min- 
 utes to bake. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 GALANTINE OF FOWL. 
 
 (^ee Fowl, Galantine of.) 
 
 GALANTINE OF PIGEONS. 
 
 Take a couple of pigeons, retaining the heads 
 and feet, but cutting off the ends of the toes. 
 Wrap the heads, after cleaning them, in paper, 
 and be careful not to break the necks. Roast 
 the birds till they are of a nice uniform brown. 
 Take some clear savoury jelly prepared before- 
 hand, warm it, and fill with it a bowl of- suit- 
 able size. When the pigeons are nearly cold 
 place them in the jelly, tying their heads, bend- 
 ing their feet under them, and placing a sprig 
 of myrtle in their bills, so that they may look 
 as natural as possible. The birds should be 
 
GAL. 
 
 235 
 
 GAM 
 
 placed upside down in the jelly, which should 
 cover their feet. When the ]elly is firm — say in 
 about twenty-four hours — turn out upon a dish 
 and serve. 
 
 GALANTINE OF SUCKING PIG. 
 
 Bone a young pig, which, for this purpose, 
 ought not to be more than three weeks old. If 
 this cannot be done at home, the butcher will 
 do it. Lay it flat on the table, back down- 
 wards, and spread on it alternate layers of good 
 forcemeat, truffles, lean ham, tongue, or any- 
 thing which will look and taste well when the 
 pig is cut into. Season each layer with pepper 
 and salt, and roll the pig tightly, binding it 
 well with tape. It will be more succulent if a 
 few slices of fat bacon are fastened on the out- 
 side. Wrap it in a pudding-cloth, and simmer 
 it gently in some good veal broth, in which may 
 be put the bones of the pig, a large carrot, a 
 blade of mace, twelve peppercorns, and some 
 sweet herbsi When sufficiently cooked, let it 
 cool in its own liquor, and when taken out, press 
 it under a weight, and let it be eaten cold. 
 Garnish the dish with aspic jelly {see Aspic 
 Jelly fob Garnishing), made of the liquor in 
 which it was boiled. Time, three hours to stew 
 the pig. Probable cost, varies from 5s. to 12s. 
 Suf&cient for twelve persons, or more. 
 GALANTINE OF VEAL. 
 
 Remove the bones from a breast of veal, and 
 lay it flat on the table, skin downwards. Beat 
 it well with a chopper, in order to make it roll, 
 more -easily. Take the hard-boiled yolks of ten 
 eggs, and pound them to a paste; mix with 
 them one dessert-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoon- 
 ful of pepper, a dessert-spoonful of chopped 
 parsley, a dessert-spoonful of sweet herbs, 
 powdered, a tea^poonful of anchovy sauce, and 
 half a salt-spoonful of pounded mace. Brush 
 the veal over thickly with beaten egg, and 
 spread the paste on evenly, and place over it 
 strips of veal forcemeat (see Forcemeat op 
 Veal), some hard-boiled eggs out into thin 
 slices, three or four truffles cleaned and sliced, 
 a few mushroonis cut into small pieces, and a 
 pound of lean ham. Arrange these prettily on ' 
 the meat, so that they will look well when the 
 galantine is cut. Season rather highly, and 
 roll the veal as tightly as possible, binding it 
 with tape; Sew it in a cloth and put it into a 
 saucepan, with some good veal stock, the bones, 
 a carrot, a large onion stuck with two cloves, a 
 bunch of sweet herbs, and a little salt and 
 pepper. Let it simmer gently for six hours, 
 and cool in the liquid. Take it out, put it be- 
 tween two dishes, and place a weight on the 
 top, and let it remain thirty-six hours before 
 being taken out to be cut. Before dishing, re- 
 move the tapes, and garnish the dish with 
 savoury jelly (see Aspic Jbllt fob Gabnishins). 
 If preferred, the veal may be very gently baked 
 in the oven. It should then be basted liberally 
 with bacon fat. 
 
 GAME. 
 
 Under the general denomination " game " are 
 included all wild animals which are fed for 
 human food; and'in nothing is the skill and 
 knowledge of a cook so much displayed as ia its 
 management. The peculiar flavour for which 
 it is so much prized is entirely lost if it is not 
 
 kept and hung for a sufficient length of time 
 after being killed. Without this, venison is not 
 so good as mutton, and au ordinary chicken is 
 more palatable than a pheasant or a partridge. 
 Care must, however, be taken that the dish is 
 not offensive when placed upon the table. All 
 game is better for being young. Game should 
 not be washed before being cooked. If wiped 
 with a dry cloth, it can be thoroughly cleansed, 
 and the flavour preserved. The eyes of most 
 game birds will show whether or not the birds 
 have been recently shot. If the eyes are deeply 
 sunk the bird has been killed several days, but 
 if, on lifting the eyelids, the eyes beneath are 
 found full and bright only a short time has 
 elapsed since it was alive. An old bird will 
 have a stiff, hard beak, and it will remain out 
 straight when the bird is held out by the 
 lower mandible, but if the same test is applied 
 to a young bird it will bend at once. Prom ten 
 to fourteen days is a reasonable time to keep 
 game, although three weeks or even longer is 
 the period favoured by epicures, but for the 
 longer period a special game larder or cold 
 storage place is required. The tests men- 
 tioned above are simple ones, and may be made 
 quite easily. 
 
 GAME AND MACARONI PIE. 
 
 Put a quarter of a pound of pipe macaroni 
 into a saucepan of boiling stock, and let it 
 simmer till it is tender, but unbroken. Drain, 
 and lay it at the bottom of a deep dish, and on 
 it place a layer of game (either pai'tridges, 
 pheasants, or grouse), cut into neat joints, and 
 stew until they are three-parts cooked. A few 
 slices of raw, lean ham should be put amongst 
 the game, together with a few chopped mush- 
 rooms. Season with pepper and salt. Place a 
 layer of macaroni on the top, grate over it a 
 little Parmesan cheese, and put little lumps of 
 butter here and there. Pour some good gravy, 
 mixed with cream or new milk, over the whole ; 
 cover with a good crust, and bake in a moderate 
 oven. Before serving, add a little more boiling 
 . gravy, and milk if required. Time to bake, 
 about one hour. Sufficient, a pie made with 
 one large or three small birds, and » quarter 
 of a pound of macaroni, for six persons. Prob- 
 able cost, uncertain. 
 
 GAME, BLACK {h la Royale). 
 
 Pick, draw, and singe a blackcock (this must 
 be done carefully, as the skin is easily broken). 
 Truss it like a pheasant, lay it before a clear 
 fire, baste it plentifully with butter, and, when 
 sufficiently cooked, serve it on a slice of toast) 
 which, after being flavoured with lemon-juice, 
 has been placed in the dripping-tin under the 
 bird for some minutes. Garnish with water- 
 cress and some forcemeat balls, made of game. 
 Good gravy should be sent to table with it. 
 This bird should not be cooked until it gives 
 decided indications of being ready for it. Time, 
 about three-quarters of an hour to roast. Suf- 
 ficient for two or three persons. Probable cost, 
 5s. the brace. Seldom offered for sale. 
 
 GAME, CRUMBS FOR. 
 
 Take the crumbs of a stale roll, pass through 
 a wire sieve, dry, then place in a stewpan, with 
 
GAM 
 
 230 
 
 GAM 
 
 one ounce of fresh butter. Place them on a 
 slow fire, and move them about with a wooden 
 spoon till they are a bright brown. Put them 
 on paper to drain, and hand them round on a 
 separate dish. They are especially required 
 when the game is rather high. Time, a few 
 minutes to brown. 
 GAME CURRY. 
 
 Take one or more wild birds, according to the 
 size of the dish you require. Cut them into 
 convenient-sized joints, rather small than large, 
 and fry these in hot butter till lightly browned. 
 Score the joints slightly in one or two places, 
 place a little curry-powder in each opening, and 
 squeeze over it the juice of a lemon. Cover the 
 joints with good brown gravy, and let them 
 simmer gently for twenty minutes. Allow a 
 table-spoonful of curry-powder, a dessert-spoon- 
 ful of the pounded white of a cocoa-nut, a 
 dessert-spoonful of the pulp of an acid apple, 
 and a quarter of a pint of good gravy to every 
 pound of meat. Simmer a quarter of an hour 
 longer. Serve with rice round the dish. Prob- 
 able cost, uncertain. Sufficient, one moderate- 
 sized bird for two persons. 
 
 GAME, ESSENCE OF. 
 
 Take the remains of cold game. Divide them 
 into small pieces, and put them into a saucepan 
 with two or three ounces of butter, four shal- 
 lots, finely minced, a sprig of thyme and basil, 
 three cloves, and six peppercorns. Fry gently 
 until they arc brightly browned, then add a 
 pint of stock, and boil on a gentle fire for 
 twenty minutes. Strain through a sieve, and 
 put aside for use. Probable cost, exclusive of 
 the cold game, 6d. Two table-spoonfuls of the 
 essence will flavour half a pint of gravy, 
 
 GAME, FORCEMEAT FOR. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound each of fat bacon, 
 calf's liver, and finely-grated bread-crumbs. Cut 
 the meat into small pieces, and fry them Until 
 half cooked, then chop them small, put them 
 into a mortar, and pound them with the crumbs, 
 a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of 
 pepper, and a pinch of powdered mace. When 
 well pounded, add the well-beaten yolks of two 
 eggs, and if these are not sufficient to bind all 
 together, add a little cream. Time, twenty 
 minutes to prepare. Probable cost, lOd. for 
 this quantity. 
 GAME, HASHED. 
 
 Take the remains of any cold game. It will 
 be all the better for being under-done. Cut 
 it into convenient-sized pieces, and cover them, 
 to keep them from getting dry and dusty. Put 
 the trimmings into a saucepan, with a breakfast- 
 cupful of stock, a bundle of sweet herbs, half a 
 dozen peppercorns, and an onion stuck with two 
 cloves; thicken with a dessert-spoonful of flour, 
 and a little butter, add a salt-spoonful of salt, 
 and simmer gently by the side of the fire till the 
 sauce coats the spoon. Strain the mixture, add 
 a glass of port wine, put in the pieces of game, 
 and let it simmer for ten minutes longer. It 
 must not boil. Put the game on a hot dish, 
 pour the gravy over, and garnish with toasted 
 bread. Care should be taken to remove the soft 
 part inside moor game, if it is very high, or it 
 will make the hash bitter. Time, three- 
 
 quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 4d., ex- 
 clusive of the cold game and wine. Sufficient, 
 one pound of meat for two persons. 
 
 GAME, HASHED (VENISON). 
 
 Cut the remains of venison into convenient- 
 sized pieces, about half an inch in thickness. 
 Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan, and 
 mix with -it, very smoothly, two ounces of fine 
 flour. Let it remain on the fire till slightly 
 browned, then add a breakfast-cupful of good 
 stock, a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, a 
 tea-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and eight 
 or ten oysters, with their liquor, a quarter of a 
 tea-spoonful of cayenne, and four table-spoon- 
 fuls of milk. Let the sauce simmer till it coats 
 the spoon. Add a glass of port wine and the 
 slices of venisoB. Let the sauce simmer again 
 till the venison is thoroughly heated ; but the 
 sauce must not boil, or the meat will be tough. 
 Serve on a hot dish, with some toasted sippets. 
 Time, about one hour to prepare. Probable cost. 
 Is., exclusive of the wine and cold meat. Suf- 
 ficient, two pounds of meat and this quantity of 
 sauce for four or five persona. 
 
 GAME IN ASPIC JELLY. 
 
 Make as much aspic jelly as will fill your 
 mould. Put a little at the bottom, let it stiffen, 
 then arrange in it the remains of cold game, cut 
 into neat pieces, and alternately with them 
 slices of pink ham, pieces of hard-boiled eggs, or 
 anything that will add to the appearance. Do 
 not crowd the meat, but leave room for the jelly 
 to go between the pieces. Fill up the mould 
 with jelly, and set in a cool place. Before 
 serving, dip the mould for a second or two in 
 boiling water, to make it turn out more easily. 
 Time, twelve hours to set the jelly. Suitable 
 for a breakfast or luncheon dish. 
 
 GAME PANADA (Invalid Cookery). 
 
 Boil some game, such as a young pheasant or 
 a young partridge, until it is three-parts cooked. 
 Take off the skin, pick the flesh from the bones, 
 and pound it in a mortar with a little of the 
 liquid in which it was boiled, the crumb of a 
 French roll, and a little salt, grated nutmeg, 
 and rasped lemon-rind. "When beaten to a 
 paste, put it into a saucepan, with a little more 
 of the liquid, and let it simmer for ten minutes. 
 It should be as thick as good melted butter. 
 Time, about one hour to prepare. Probable 
 cost, 4d., exclusive of the game. Sufficient, a 
 few spoonfuls inay be given to an invalid. 
 
 GAME PATTIES. 
 
 Make a nicely-flavoured mince of the remains 
 of game. Moisten with a little gravy. Make 
 some small round patties of good light crust, 
 or puff paste, brush them over with beaten egg, 
 and bake them till lightly browned. Warm the 
 mince in a saucepan, put a little in the centre 
 of each patty, and serve them hot, piled on a 
 napkin. Time, ten minutes to bake. Probable 
 cost. Id. each, exclusive of the game. Sufficient, 
 allow one for each person, 
 
 GAME, PERIGORD PIE. 
 
 This somewhat celebrated pie, composed of 
 partridges and truffles, derives its name from 
 Perigord, a place where truffles are very abund- 
 ant. To make it, first line the crust of a raised 
 
H 
 H 
 <! 
 
 i-I 
 
 Oa 
 
 
 
GAM 
 
 pie with fat bacon; spread on it a forcemeat 
 made by mincing and pounding liver and sea- 
 soning in the following proportions : —Half a 
 pound of liver (the partridge's liver and a little 
 calf's liver may be used), half a pound of fat 
 bacon, half a pound of lean, ham, two shallots, 
 four ounces of seasoning spices, one or two 
 truffles, and a little pepper and salt. Stuff the 
 partridges with this forcemeat and some truffles ; 
 place them in the crust, back downwards. Fill 
 up the vacant places with forcemeat and bacon, 
 put a slice of bacon on the top, cover with 
 pastry, and bake in a moderate oven. When the 
 pie is baked nearly enough, fill it up with some 
 gravy, made by stewing the trimmings with a 
 little isinglass, Time, four hours to bake. 
 Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient for twelve 
 persons. 
 
 GAME PIE, ENGLISH. 
 
 The great point to be attended to in this dish 
 is to use venison that has been well kept. The 
 best end of the neck is what should be taken. 
 Trim and rub it with mace, nutmeg, cayenne, 
 and salt. Boil down the trimmings of venison 
 and the inferior joints of a hare to make gravy. 
 Take the back and thighs of the hare, and after 
 boning them, fill with stuffing, using shallot 
 and the raw liver of the hare minced up in the 
 forcemeat. Line a dish with short crust, put 
 in the venison and hare, filling up every space 
 with forcemeat. Add a little of the gravy, put 
 on the cover, ornament the top, and bake in a 
 Hot oven. When venison is not liked, substi- 
 tute the prime joints of another hare. Time, 
 about two hours and a half to bake. 
 
 GAME PIE FOR CHRISTMAS. 
 
 This pie is suitable where game is abundant 
 and expense no object. Make a thick stifE cruet, 
 for directions for which see Baised Pie. It may 
 either be baked in a mould, or formed into shape 
 with the hands. The latter operation is not 
 easy for those unaccustomed to it. Line the 
 Taottom with slices of fat bacon ; spread over 
 that a layer of forcemeat, made by scalding the 
 iivers of the birds, and pounding them with 
 ■their weight in fat bacon and lean ham, a few 
 truffles, some bread-crumbs, salt, pepper, 
 dvoury herbs, parsley, and rasped lemon-rind. 
 Then put in some of the joints of the birds — 
 the breasts should be larded — and strew over all 
 some finely-chopped mushrooms. Repeat until 
 the pie is full. Season rather lightly, and keep 
 putting little lumps of butter in amongst the 
 other ingredients. Lay some slices of bacon on 
 the top, put on the lid, ornament with pastry 
 leaves and other devices, brush over with beaten 
 egg, and bake in a moderate oven. If the pie 
 is to be served hot, pour some strong gravy over 
 it as soon as it is baked ; if cold, take away the 
 bacon from the top, and put some roughed aspic 
 jelly over it before sending it to table. This pie 
 may be made of pheasants, partridges, wood- 
 cocks, snipe, grouse, etc. Time to bake, three 
 or four hours for a large pie. Probable cost, 
 etc., uncertain, according to the size and 
 contents. 
 GAME PIE (HUNTING). 
 
 Make a stiff short crust for raised pie (see 
 Eaised Pie); bake in a moderate oven. Cut 
 into neat and rather small joints, one turkey. 
 
 two pheasants, two partridges, two woodcocks, 
 hall' a small hare, one grouse, one snipe, and 
 one large ox-tongue. Stew them gently till 
 tender, season rather highly, put them into the 
 crust, pour over them a little of the gravy in 
 which they were stewed, and strew on the top 
 some finely-chopped stewed mushrooms. Put on 
 the lid, and warm the pie in a moderate oven 
 when wanted. Time, three or four hours to 
 prepare. 
 GAME, PUREE OF. 
 
 Take the remains of cold game; pick off all 
 the meat, and put the skin, gristle, and bones 
 into a saucepan, with a bunch of thyme, a stick 
 of celery, a breakfast-cupful of stock, and a 
 lump of butter rolled in flour. Simmer gently 
 until reduced one-half. Bemove the scum as 
 it rises. Put the meat into a mortar with a 
 lump of butter, a little pepper and salt, and a 
 spoonful of gravy. Pound it to a smooth paste, 
 and rub it through a coarse sieve. Mix it with 
 the gravy and a little cream, stir it over the 
 fire till hot, and serve with croquettes of pota.- 
 toes round the dish. Time, about one hour and 
 a half to prepare. Probable cost, 6d., exclu- 
 sive of the cold game. Puree made with one 
 pound of game, sufficient for three persons. 
 
 GAME, RISSOLES OF. 
 
 Take the remains of cold game, remove the 
 skin and gristle, and pound the meat in a mor- 
 tar, with one dessert-spoonful of salt, a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper, the quarter of a small nut- 
 meg, grated, half a pound of bread-crumbs, 
 soaked in milk and drained, three table-spoon- 
 fuls of finely-chopped mushrooms, a piece of 
 butter, and the yolk of an egg, to every pound 
 of meat. Enclose in pastry (see Bissoles), or, if 
 preferred, make into balls, dredge them with 
 flour, and dip them in beaten egg and bread- 
 crumbs. Fry them in hot butter or lard till 
 lightly browned, drain on a little blotting-paper, 
 and serve piled high on a napkin. Garnish with 
 parsley, and send brown sauce to table with 
 them. Time, ten minutes to fry. Sufficient, 
 one pound of meat, etc., for three persons. 
 Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold game. 
 
 GAME SALAD. 
 
 Make a salad of some lettuce, endive, and 
 water-cress, with one thinly-sliced apple. Mix 
 in a salad-bowl with some dressing, and put 
 some mustard-and-cress on top. Squeeze the 
 juice of an orange over, then place some neatly- 
 cut pieces of cold pheasant or other game on 
 top, sprinkle a little minced shallot and parsley 
 over, and garnish round with hard-boiled egg 
 and beetroot. 
 
 GAME, SALMI OF. 
 
 A salmi differs from a hash in this, that it is 
 made of game which has been only partially 
 dressed, whilst a hash consists of game which 
 has been properly cooked and become cold. 
 Carve the meat into neat joints, rejecting the 
 skin and gristle. Put a quarter of a pound of 
 raw, lean ham, finely minced, into a saucepan, 
 with a little butter, a sprig of parsley, two or 
 three shallots, a tea-spoonful of pepper, a blade 
 of mace, and a little salt and cayenne. Let 
 these ingredients stew gently for a few minutes, 
 then mix in smoothly a table-spoonful of flour. 
 
GAM 
 
 238 
 
 QAM 
 
 and a dessert-spoonful of mushroom-powder. 
 Let it trown, and add a breakfast-cupful of 
 good stock, and a glass of claret. Let the mix- 
 ture boil. Put in the bones and trimmings, 
 and simmer over a moderate fire for an hour or 
 more. A small carrot, a bunch of savoury 
 herbs, and a bay-leaf may be simmered with 
 the rest. Skim carefully, strain, and wh^en 
 ready to serve; put the joints in with the gravy, 
 and heat all slowly, but it must not boil. Gar- 
 nish the dish with toasted sippets. A salmi 
 should be highly-seasoned. Probable cost, ex- 
 clusive of the game and wine, lOd. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. 
 CAME, SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into 
 a saucepan, with two minced shallots, and six 
 ounces of the shin of beef, cut into small pieces, 
 or the remains of a roasted partridge. Fry until 
 lightly and equally browned, and to secure this, 
 turn frequently. Pour on gradually one pint of 
 boiling water, add a blade of mace, a sprig of 
 parsley, two bay-leaves, and a little salt and 
 pepper. Thicken with a table-spoonful of flour 
 mixed smoothly with a little water, add a little 
 browning, if necessary, and simmer gently for 
 an hour and a half. Strain, clear well from fat, 
 and boil up again, adding one glass of claret and 
 a table-spoonful of walnut ketchup. Pour a 
 little of the gravy round the birds, and send the 
 rest to table in a tureen. Probable cost, 9d., 
 exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for a brace 
 of small birds. 
 
 GAME, SAUCE PIQUANTE FOR. 
 
 Take the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, and mix it 
 smoothly with a table-spoonful of salad-oil, stir 
 in with it a little salt and pepper, a mustard- 
 spoonful of made mustard, a dessert-spoonful 
 of walnut ketchup, and three dessert-spoonfuls 
 of vinegar. Time, a few minutes to prepare. 
 Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for two small birds. 
 
 GAME SAUSAGES. 
 
 Take the remains of game, cut off the meat, 
 remove carefully the skin and sinew, mince the 
 flesh and pound it in a mortar, with six ounces 
 of lean ham, and six ounces of butter to every 
 pound of meat. Season rather highly with salt, 
 pepper, and powdered mace. Put the mixture 
 into sidns and fry in hot butter or lard for 
 three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 
 per pound, exclusive of the cold game. Suf- 
 ficient, one pound for two or three persons. 
 
 GAME SOUP. 
 
 This soup may be made of the remains of cold 
 birds which are not required, though, of course, 
 if uncooked, the soup will, be better. Pick off 
 all the white meat you can get from the bones, 
 and pound it in a mortar. Put the bones and 
 trimmings into a stewpan, with five or six car- 
 rots, a slice of lean ham, a little pepper and salt, 
 two or three onions, and three pints of white 
 stock or water. Simmer gently, and when the 
 vegetables are tender, take them out, mix them 
 with the pounded meat, and press them through 
 a. tamis. Keep adding a little of the broth, so 
 as to press as much through as possible. Re- 
 turn the broth to the saucepan, and let it get 
 quite hot. A few minutes before serving draw it 
 from the fire, let it cool a little, and mix with 
 
 it the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, and a 
 cupful of cream. It must not boil after the 
 eggs are added. Time, one hour and a half to 
 stew the bones and trimmings. Sufficient for 
 five persons. Probable cost, exclusive of the 
 cold game. Is. for this quantity. 
 
 GAME STOCK. 
 
 The remains of cold roast game, and the bones 
 and trimmings, should be stewed down, and will 
 make good stock. Put some lean ham at the 
 bottom of the stew, and on this lay the game. 
 Just cover all with stock or water, and boil 
 quickly down to a glaze. Add more liquid, 
 allowing a pint of water to every pound of 
 trimmings. Flavour with carrots, turnips, 
 onions, etc., remove the scum as it rises, and 
 stew gently for three or four hours. Strain it 
 off for use. 
 GAME TOAST. 
 
 Pound up any kind of cooked game in a 
 mortar, mix with it half its bulk of butter; 
 season with pepper, salt, a few grains of cay- 
 enne, and a squeeze of lemon. Make it very 
 hot, and serve on slices of hot buttered toast. 
 
 GAME, TO DEVIL. '^ 
 
 Some hours before the devil is wanted, the 
 flesh should be rather deeply scored, and covered 
 with a powder made of equal parts of salt, 
 cayenne, and curry-powder, with the addition, 
 if liked, of mushroom or truffle powder, butter, 
 and mustard. Broil over a hot clear fire, until 
 brightly browned and hot, but not burnt. 
 Devilled game is oftener than not eaten dry, as 
 a relish with wine. When sauce is wanted, it 
 may be made by putting a breakfast-cupful of 
 thick brown gravy into a saucepan, with a tea- 
 spoonful of mixed mustard, a shallot finely 
 minced, a spoonful of ketchup, the juice and 
 finely-grated rind of a lemon, a tea-spoonful of 
 salt, a quarter jijf a tea-spoonful of cayenne, and 
 a tea-spoonful of bruised capers. Simmer for 
 ten or fifteen minutes, and serve in a tureen. 
 The devilled game will be all the better if the 
 meat has been under-dressed. Moor game is 
 particularly suited to this mode of cookery. 
 Time, a few minutes to broil the bones. Prob- 
 able cost, 2d., exclusive of the game. Allow 
 one or two bones for each person. 
 
 GAME, TO KEEP FROM TAINTING. 
 
 While it is very desirable that game should be 
 hung a proper length of time, to render the 
 flesh tender and in proper condition, it is most 
 undesirable that it should be served at table in 
 a state offensive to sight and smell. Choose 
 birds which are not much mangled by shot. 
 Hang them, if possible, in a cool place, where 
 there is a current of air blowing right through. 
 Be careful to preserve them from flies; black 
 pepper will do this. Examine them every day, 
 and if there is danger that they will not keep, 
 draw, pick, and crop them, place them on a 
 dish, cover them with muslin, and sprinkle a 
 little powdered charcoal under and over them. 
 If they appear already spoilt, they may often be 
 made fit for eating by washing in vinegar and 
 water, or by washing and thoroughly rubbing 
 them with salt, and putting them for ten 
 minutes in boiling water. Take them out, hang 
 them in a cool place, and powder them lightly 
 
GAM 
 
 239 
 
 GAR 
 
 over with charcoal. If game is tainted, wash it 
 before roasting, but if not, it should not be 
 touched with water. Game is as often spoilt by- 
 being frozen as by being too fresh. In frosty 
 weather it should be brought into the warm 
 kitchen three or four hours before it is cooked. 
 Charcoal may be made by putting a piece of 
 wood in the oven, and letting it remain until it 
 is burnt through, and quite black. 
 
 GAME, TO REMOVE TAINT FROM. 
 
 Wash the game first in salt and water, and 
 afterwards in fresh water, and dry it thoroughly 
 in a cloth before cooking; or put some fresh 
 powdered charcoal, tied in muslin, inside the 
 crop. Take the charcoal out, and throw it 
 away, before sending the bird to table. 
 
 GARDENER'S OMELET. 
 
 Beat half a dozen eggs, season them with 
 pepper and salt, and mix in some finely-minced 
 vegetables — either salad, green peas, French 
 beans, powdered herbs, or whatever the season 
 affords. Green peas and French beans must be 
 cooked before tney are mixed with the eggs. 
 Make the omelet in the usual way. Time to fry, 
 three to four minutes. Probable cost, 8d., ex- 
 clusive of the vegetables. Sufficient for four 
 persons. 
 
 GARDENER'S PIE. 
 
 Line a dish with ordina;ry pie-crust, put in 
 a thick layer of cold cooked, potatoes, and 
 sprinkle over with thyme. Next slice three or 
 four cold cooked carrots and cover the 
 potatoes. Over these sprinkle a table-spoonful 
 of minced parsley. Slice in one parsnip and 
 one turnip, and add salt and pepper to taste. 
 Fry three Spanish onions a golden brown, and 
 add ; then cover with another layer of potatoes. 
 If any stock is to hand, a pint of this should 
 now be poured in, but if not, a pint of thick 
 white sauce should be made with milk and 
 flour, adding a little butter or dripping and 
 two table-spoonfuls of chopped capers. Pour 
 over all, put on a cover of pie-crust, and bake 
 till a nice brown colour. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 GARFISH. 
 
 These fish are not much liked on account of 
 their strong oily taste. The oil, however, lies 
 in the skin, and if it be taken quite off, the 
 flesh is not to be despised. The garfish may be 
 either boiled, broiled, baked, or stewed, or 
 cooked as follows. Take off the skin, cut the 
 fish into pieces about one inch and a half long, 
 and put them into a marinade made of vinegar, 
 oil, pepper, salt, sweet herbs, and two or three 
 cloves. Let them lie an hour or two, then put 
 them into a jar, cover them closely, add a little 
 gravy, if necessary, and put the jar into a 
 saucepan of boiling water. Let it boil until the 
 fish is sufficiently cooked. Serve with anchovy 
 or parsley sauce. Any of the recipes for eels 
 may be used for garfish. Time, about half an 
 hour. The cost is uncertain, for the garfish is 
 seldom offered for sale. Sufficient, one ordinary 
 fish for two persons. 
 
 GARLIC. 
 
 Garlic requires to be used most judiciously, 
 or it will spoil whatever is cooked with it. If 
 
 used carefully, however, it will impart a most 
 delicious flavour to salads and sauces ; but it is 
 so strong that, for many dishes, all that is 
 necessary is to rub sharply round with a slice 
 of it the dish which is to be sent to table; or, 
 better still, to rub it on a crust of bread, and 
 put the bread into the soup, etc., for a few 
 minutes. A very general prejudice exists 
 against garlic, probably on account of its 
 being used in the same way as an onion. If it 
 is desired to diminish the strength of the 
 flavour, this may be done by boiling the garlic 
 in two or three waters. 
 
 GARLIC GRAVY. 
 
 Cut a pound of lean beef into slices, and put 
 them into a stewpan with two ounces of rasped 
 ham, a scraped carrot, and one clove of garlic. 
 Brown the meat slightly on both sides, then 
 pour over it one pint of stock or water, and add 
 a bundle of savoury herbs, another clove, and a 
 lemon sliced right through. Simmer gently for 
 an hour, thicken the gravy with a dessert- 
 spoonful of flour, mixed smoothly with a small 
 quantity of water, and strain through a coarse 
 sieve. Add salt and pepper to taste, and a 
 little grated nutmeg. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 Sufficient for one pint of gravy. 
 
 GARLIC, MILD RAGOUT OF. 
 
 Take off the skin from some cloves of garlic, 
 and put them into fast-boiling water. In five 
 minutes drain the water from them, and put in 
 fresh. Boil Eliiother five minutes, and repeat the 
 previous performance until the vegetable is 
 tender. A pinch of salt may be added to the 
 water when the garlic is nearly done enough. 
 Mix it with the gravy which is to be sent to 
 table with roast mutton. If it is not wished to 
 decrea/se the strength of the flavour quite so 
 much, change the water less frequently. Time, 
 about half an hour. Sufficient, half a pint of 
 garlic with half a pint of grav.y. 
 
 GARLIC PASTE. 
 
 Slice four or six cloves of garlic, and pound 
 them in a mortar, moistening them occasionally 
 with olive-oil until they form a smooth mass. 
 Put the mixture into jars, cover with clarified 
 butter, and keep in a cool place. This composi- 
 tion, commonly called agoli, is used for flavour- 
 ing dishes with garlic. Time, about half an 
 hour. Probable cost, 3d. or 4d. Sufficient, a 
 little taken on the point of a knife will flavour 
 a pint of gravy. 
 
 GARLIC PICKLE. 
 
 Divide one pound of cloves of garlic, take off 
 the skins, and lay them in a dish. Strew salt 
 plentifully over them, and let them stand for 
 two or three days. Wipe them, arid lay them iu 
 the sun to dry. Put one quart of vinegar into 
 a preserving-pan, with a tea-spoonful of salt, 
 one ounce of whole pepper, and one ounce of 
 bruised mustard-seed. Boil quickly, remove 
 the scum, and throw in the garlic for three 
 minutes only. Pour into an earthen jar, and, 
 when cold, tie a bladder or four or five folds of 
 paper tightly over the pickle. The vinegar must 
 cover the garlic, and as it becomes absorbed, a 
 little more may be added. 
 
GAR 
 
 240 
 
 GAR 
 
 GARLIC SAUCE. 
 
 Blanch two cloves of garlic in boiling water 
 twice. Dry them, and pound them in a mortar 
 with a salt-spoonful of salt, half a salt-spoonful 
 of pepper, and a piece of butter the size of a 
 small egg. When quite smooth, press the mix- 
 ture through a coarse sieve, and stir it into half 
 a pint of good melted butter. Add the juice of 
 a lemon. Time, twenty minutes to prepare. 
 There will be sufficient for three-quarters of a 
 pint of sauce. Probable cost, 5d. 
 
 GARLIC VINEGAR. 
 
 Take three ounces of the cloves of garlic, re- 
 move the skin and bruise them slightly in a mor- 
 tar. Put them into an earthen jar, with, a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, half a dozen cloves, and half 
 an ounce of whole ginger. Pour over them a 
 quart of the best vinegar, cover closely, and in 
 ten days or a fortnight strain off for use. Two 
 or three drops will prove a valuable addition to 
 sauces and salads. The flavour may be in- 
 creased or diminished by leaving the garlic a 
 longer or shorter time in the vinegar, or by 
 altering the proportion of garlic. Before strain- 
 ing off for use taste two or three drops, and see 
 if the flavour ia such as will be liked. 
 
 GARNISH. 
 
 In dishing meat for the table, garnishing 
 forms a most important part, as it is highly 
 desirable that the eye should be satisfied as 
 well as the palate, and the most delicious dish 
 may not be enjoyed if its appearance be against 
 it. Vegetables and sauces form the principal 
 garnish for meat dishes. It is evident, how- 
 ever, that in garnishing very much must depend 
 on the good taste of the cook, and the material 
 at her command. A general idea only of vari- 
 ous garnishes can be given here, and their 
 adaptation must be left to the taste of those 
 employing them. 
 GARNISH (a la Jardiniere). 
 
 Wash and peel a small turnip, and cook it in 
 salted water until tender, then strain and rub it 
 through a sieve with a wooden spoon. Mix one 
 ounce of butter with a dessert-spoonful of flour, 
 stir it over the fire for a few minutes, add the 
 turnip pulp, half a gill of bechamel sauce (see 
 Bechamel Sauce), salt, pepper, and a pinch of 
 grated nutmeg; let it come to a boil, then stir 
 in a quarter of a gill of cream, and keep hot. 
 If too thick, add a little milk or white stock. 
 Take a pint of various kinds of vegetables, such 
 as green peas, French beans (cut into short 
 pieces), turnips and carrots (cut into fancy 
 shapes), cauliflower buds, asparagus tips, etc. 
 Boil in salted water until tender, strain, and put 
 ■with the sauce. Let it get thoroughly hot with- 
 out boiling, add half an ounce of butter, and 
 ae^ve round a dish of lamb cutlets or other 
 entree. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 GARNISH, ASPARAGUS FOR. 
 
 Chop the green part of asparagus into pieces 
 the size of a pea. Boil them until nearly tender, 
 drain and shake them over the fire for ten 
 minutes, with a little butter, pepper, and salt. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 6d. per hundred heads. Suf- 
 ficient, fifty heads to garnish a small dish. 
 GARNISH, ASPIC FOR. 
 
 (See Aspic Jelly foe Garnishino.) 
 
 GARNISH, BEETROOT FOR. 
 
 Wash a beetroot thoroughly. Put it into boil- 
 ing water, and let it keep boiling until a fork 
 can be put into it with ease. Take it out, drain 
 it, and, when it is wanted, peel it and cut it into 
 thin slices, which may be stamped out into 
 shapes with an ordinary vegetable cutter. Time, 
 two hours to boil. One root will garnish a 
 large dish. Probable cost. Id. 
 GARNISH, CELERY SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Wash two heads of celery, scald and drain, and 
 cut them into pieces two inches long. Lay 
 these in a stewpan with as much fast-boiling 
 water as will cover them entirely, add one onion, 
 one piece of sugar, one bay-leaf, a little salt and 
 pepper, simmer till tender, then thicken the 
 sauce with flour, and stir in a cupful of milk. 
 This may be used as garnish for boiled fowls, 
 etc. Time, half an hour to simmer the celery. 
 Sufficient, two heads and a half-pint of sauce 
 for one large fowl. Probable cost, 2d. per head. 
 
 GARNISH, CHIPOLATA FOR. 
 
 Cut up one pound of fresh pork and one pound 
 of bacon; remove all skin and gristle. Add 
 pepper and salt to taste, and a tea-spoonful each 
 of pounded sage, allspice, and cloves. Pass the 
 meat twice through a sausage machine. Wash 
 carefully some sausage skins about three- 
 quarters of an inch in diameter, and fill them 
 with the mince, dividing them into little sau- 
 sages not more than two inches long. Prick 
 them in two or three places with a needle; put 
 them in a shallow frying-pan with a little butter, 
 and cook from twelve to fifteen minutes, turn- 
 ing them well to cook them evenly. These are 
 usually served with roasted or braised turkey. 
 Probable cost, lOd. per pound. 
 
 GARNISH, COCKSCOIVIBS FOR. 
 
 Put the combs into a saucepan with plenty of 
 cold water. Place them on the fire and stir con- 
 stantly until the skin begins to rise. Take them 
 off immediately, remove the skin, and throw 
 the combs into salt and water. Change the 
 water two or three times, and let them remain 
 until quite white. Dry, and boil them in some 
 good stock, flavoured with lemon-juice. Time, 
 eight hours to prepare. 
 
 GARNISH, CUCUIMBER FOR. 
 
 Peel the cucumber and slice it; keep scoop- 
 ing out the seeds as it is cut down. Put a piece 
 of butter the size of a large egg into a saucepan, 
 with two table-spoonfuls of lemon-juice, a little 
 salt and pepper, and a lump of sugar. Let the 
 ingredients stew slowly until sufficiently cooked, 
 then strain off the butter, pour over them a 
 little good white sauce, and serve with steak, 
 cutlets, etc. Time to stew, twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost. Is. Sufficient, one moderate-sized 
 cucumber, with half a pint of sauce, for two 
 pounds of cutlets. 
 
 GARNISH, CUCUIMBER, FOR SALMON. 
 
 Drain off the liquor from about three pounds 
 of boiled pickled salmon ; place the salmon on a 
 dish, and cover it completely with two or three 
 layers of thin slices of fresh cucumber, from 
 which the rind has been taken. Probable cost, 
 6d. each. Sufficient, one good-sized cucumber 
 for three pounds of salmon. 
 
GAR 
 
 241 
 
 GAR 
 
 GARNISH, EGGS FOR. 
 
 Take six hard-boiled yolks, pound them, sea- 
 son with pepper and salt, and mix in three raw 
 yolks. Mix well together, and roll into cigar- 
 like shapes pointed at each end. Flour them 
 well, and throw into boiling water for three or 
 four minutes. These make a good garnish for 
 salads and other yegetable dishes. If desired 
 they can be flavoured with chopped parsley and 
 savoury herbs. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 GARNISH FOR POULTRY, GAME, ETC. 
 
 Put a quarter of a pound of fresh butter into 
 a stewpan, and, when it is hot, fry in it equal 
 quantities of lean ham and kidney, either mut- 
 ton or veal, cutting the meat into thin slices 
 of equal size. Mince a little parsley, strew it 
 over these slices, add pepper and salt, and 
 Squeeze in the juice of a lemon. When lightly 
 browned on both sides, place the meat and the 
 gravy round the poultry, etc., which it is in- 
 tended to garnish. Time, a quarter of an hour. 
 Probable cost, mutton kidneys, 2d. each. Suf- 
 ficient, four kidneys for one large fowl. 
 GARNISH, FOWLS' LIVERS FOR. 
 
 Blanch the liver of the fowl, and partly boil it. 
 Cut the bitter part away, and mince the rest very 
 finely. Make half a pint of good melted butter. 
 Let it boil, then put with it the minced liver, a 
 tea-spoonful of chopped lemon-rind, and the 
 juice of the lemon. Where poultry is plentiful, 
 and expense no object, three or four livers may 
 be stewed in the savoury stock, strained, and 
 placed whole, or in halves, round the dish. 
 Time, a quarter of an hour to boil the liver. 
 Sufficient, half a pint for one good-sized fowl. 
 GARNISH, FRIED BREAD FOR. 
 
 Cut the crumb of a stale loaf into slices, 
 about a quarter of an inch in thickness. Stamp 
 them out into pretty shapes with an ordinary 
 pastry cutter, and fry them in hot butter, or 
 lard, until lightly browned on both sides. Drain 
 them from the fat, and put them round the dish 
 they are intended to garnish. If they will not 
 keep in their places, brush the under side with 
 white of egg, mixed with a little flour. Time, 
 two or three minutes to fry. 
 
 GARNISH, GLAZED ONION FOR. 
 
 Take twelve onions of equal size, about two 
 inches in diameter. Peel off the brown skin and 
 the first skin under it. With a small pointed 
 knife scoop out a cavity an inch deep in the 
 middle of each. Melt two ounces of butter in a 
 stewpan, and arrange the onions in it side by 
 side, leaving a little room between each ; fill the 
 cavities with sifted sugar. Fry the onions, turn- 
 ing them over to brown both sides. When 
 nicely browned, pour over them enough good 
 stock to cover them. Cover the pan, and sim- 
 mer over a slow fire, basting the onions fre- 
 quently with the stock until it is reduced to a 
 glaze, and the onions are quite soft but not 
 broken. Strain the glaze and pour it over a 
 roast or braised shoulder of mutton, and arrange 
 the onions round. Probable cost, lOd. 
 
 GARNISH, GREEN PEAS FOR. 
 
 Boil some young green peas until J;ender. 
 Drain them until quite dry, then put them 
 into a saucepan with half an ounce of butter 
 
 Q 
 
 for a quart of peas, a little salt and pepper, and 
 a salt-spoonful of moist sugar. Shake them 
 over the fire for a, few minutes, and pile them 
 in the middle of a dish of cutlets. Time, fif- 
 teen minutes to boil the peas, five or ten min- 
 utes to shake them over the fire. Probable cost, 
 8d. to Is. per peck. Suf&cient for six or seven 
 persons. 
 
 GARNISH, MUSHROOMS FOR. 
 
 Cut away the gritty end of the stalk, and 
 pare the mushrooms. Throw them as they are 
 done into a basin of cold water; wash them 
 well, lift them out of the water with both hands, 
 so as to leave the sediment at the bottom, and 
 put them in a saucepan, with the juice of a 
 large lemon, two table-spoonfuls of water, two 
 ounces of fresh butter, a pinch of salt, and a 
 little pepper. Shake the saucepan constantly, 
 and let them boil for ten minutes. They may 
 be put into a jar, and closely covered, and will 
 keep for some time. Probable cost. Is. per 
 pint. 
 
 GARNISH, PARSLEY FRIED FOR. 
 
 Parsley may be best fried in the small wire 
 baskets which are sold for the purpose. Wash, 
 and dry it thoroughly. Put some lard, drip- 
 ping, or butter into an iron stewpan, and when 
 it is just about to boil, hold the basket in it for 
 a second or two, then take the parsley out, and 
 dry it before the fire. If a wire basket is not at 
 hand, put the parsley into the fat, and as soon 
 as it is crisp take it up with an egg-slicer, and 
 dry it before the fire. Fried and crisped parsley 
 (see Ceispbd Parsley) are the most usual, and 
 the cheapest of garnishings, but they require 
 care in preparation. Everything fried and 
 savoury is served with fried parsley. Probable 
 cost. Id. per bunch. 
 
 GARNISH, POTATOES FRIED FOR. 
 
 Choose large potatoes. Peel them, and cut 
 them into slices, about the eighth of an inch in 
 thickness. Wash, and dry them in a cloth. 
 Heat enough dripping to cover them entirely. 
 As soon as it boils and is still, put in the pota- 
 toes, a few at a time ; shake them to ensure their 
 being evenly cooked. When lightly browned 
 and crisp, drain them from the fat, sprinkle a 
 little salt over, and serve. Time, ten minutes 
 to fry. Probable cost, 2d. per pound. Allow 
 half a pound for each person. 
 
 GARNISH, POTATOES FRIED FOR (another way). 
 Mash some boiled potatoes with a little but- 
 ter and milk. Shape them into balls, and pro- 
 ceed as in the last recipe. Time, ten minutes. 
 Probable cost, 2d. per pound. Sufiicient, half a 
 pound for each person. 
 
 GARNISH, PUREE OF GREEN PEAS FOR. 
 
 Boil some young green peas, in the usual way, 
 until tender. Pound them in a mortar, press 
 them through a sieve, and put the pulp into a 
 saucepan with a small lump of butter, a little 
 salt and pepper, a lump of sugar, and a table- 
 spoonful of good stock. Stir over the fire 
 until the puree is quite hot, and serve, piled 
 high on a dish, with the cutlets, etc., round' 
 it. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. 
 per peck. Sufficient, one peck for six or seven 
 persons. 
 
GAR 
 
 242 
 
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 QARNISH, TOMATOES FOR. 
 
 Remove tlie stalks of the tomatoes. Put them 
 into a saucepan, sufficiently large for all to be 
 in it without resting one upon another. Cover 
 them with good gravy, and stew gently until 
 tender, turning them carefully once or twice, to 
 ensure their being equally cooked. Remove the 
 tomatoes, and keep them hot. Thicken the 
 gravy with a little flour and butter, add cay- 
 enne and salt, and let it boil two or three 
 minutes longer. Place the tomatoes round the 
 outlets, etc., and serve the same separately. 
 Time, half an hour to boil the tomatoes. Suf- 
 ficient for a hot joint. Probable cost, 9d. or Is. 
 
 GARNISH, TURNIPS FOR. 
 
 Peel, wash, and drain a number of small 
 young turnips. Boil them for five minutes in 
 salted water, and drain them again. Put one 
 ounce of butter in a stewpan, add the turnips, 
 and fry them to a good colour, which will take 
 about eight minutes. Drain well, and boil in 
 stock, or along with the meat or fowl for which 
 they are intended, for fifteen minutes. Serve 
 arranged round the dish. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 GARNISH, TRUFFLES FOR. 
 
 Wash the truffles by rinsing them in several 
 waters until they are quite free from sand. Put 
 them into some good stock, and. let them boil 
 gently for fifteen minutes. They should cool 
 ill the liquid. Slice for use. 
 GATEAU. ■^---- 
 
 A gateau is generically a cake, but in France 
 it is applied specifically to a country cake for 
 high-days and holidays, made of dough, with 
 which has been mixed currants, butter, and eggs. 
 It is baked in the shape of a long loaf, and is 
 served cut in slices, which are spread lyith but- 
 ter, and eaten at the end of a meal. It may, of 
 course, be made either plain or rich. For an 
 ordinary gateau the rule is, a quarter of a 
 pound of butter, a quarter of a pound of cur- 
 rants, a quarter of a pound of raisins, five eggs, 
 and a little yeast, to every pound of fiour; no 
 sugar. Milk i» sometimes used instead of 
 water for mixing the ingredients, but this makes 
 the cake drier. Probable cost, 6d. per pound. 
 
 GATEAU {h la Ceylon). 
 
 Take a pound of sponge or cocoa-nut cake, 
 bake it in a shallow tin, then cut it into rounds 
 of equal thickness with graduated cutters. The 
 centres sho-ald be removed with a small cutter, 
 and the slices piled one on another. Then mask 
 the edges with some white icing, and sprinkle 
 with grated cocoa-nut. Then cut up half a 
 pound of glace cherries and the same weight of 
 green almonds, or other green fruit, and place 
 them artistically between the tiers while the 
 icing is moist. The centre should be filled with 
 whipped cream flavoured with vanilla. Then 
 take some whipped cream and little piles of the 
 two fruits, and arrange round the cake. . 
 Sprinkle the cream with cocoa-nut. Probable 
 cost, 3s. 
 
 GATEAU (li la Dauphine). 
 
 Thoroughly beat the yolks of ten eggs; mix 
 with them half a pound of pounded sugar, a 
 table-spoonful of chopped lemon-rind, two table- 
 Bpoonfuls of rose-water, and a qjiarter of a 
 
 pound of the best flour. Beat the whites to a 
 solid froth, and stir them in with the rest. Put 
 the mixture into a well-oiled tin, and bake in a 
 good oven for about forty minutes. Probable 
 cost. Is. 2d. SufRcient for a moderate-sized 
 gateau. 
 
 GATEAU COBURG (Coburg Cake). 
 
 Take three-quarters of a pound of sifted flour, 
 half a pound of butter, a quarter of a pound of 
 white sugar, four tea-spoonfuls of ground cinna- 
 mon, and the yolks of five eggs, and mix all to- 
 gether to a fine paste. Line a small baking- 
 tin, about an inch deep, with this paste. 
 Sprinkle on the bottom a few currants, crushed 
 ratafias, and shreds of lemon-peel. Pare a few 
 apples, slice them, and flavour them with lemon- 
 juice, and place them in the tin. Whip the 
 whites of five eggs, add a quarter of a pound of 
 ground cinnamon and » quarter of a pound of 
 fine flour. When well mixed, add the yolks with 
 half a pint of sour clotted cream, and beat well 
 together. Pour the mixture over the apples, 
 and bake in a moderate oven until thoroughly 
 cooked through. (Communicated by Mr. A. F. 
 Feltham, G.C.A., chef to her late Majesty 
 Queen Victoria.) 
 
 GATEAU DE CHOCOLAT. 
 
 Make a gateau, as in the last recipe but one («ee 
 Gateau a la Dauphine). When it is sufficiently 
 baked, turn it out of the tin, and let it cool. 
 Put half a pound of sugar into a saucepan, with 
 a quarter of a pint of water. Dip the finger 
 and thumb into cold water, and keep taking a 
 little of the boiling sugar between them. When 
 it looks like strong glue it should be taken from 
 the fire, allowed to stand eight or ten minutes, 
 and then be mixed with three ounces of choco- 
 late, dissolved in a little water. Work all well 
 together, and while the mixture is still hot, 
 glaze the gateau with it, and ornament with 
 spun sugar. Time, forty minutes to bake the 
 cake. Probable cost. Is. Bd. Sufficient for a 
 moderate-sized gateau. 
 
 GATEAU DE COMPIEGNE. 
 
 Gateau de Compiegne is made by mixing a 
 little brioche paste (see Brioche Paste) with 
 currants and raisins. 
 
 GATEAU D'EPICE, OR FRENCH GINGERBREAD. 
 
 Pound a quarter of a pod of vanilla with a. 
 dessert-spoonful of brandy. Stir it into half a 
 pound of treacle, and put it into a saucepan 
 with a quarter of a pound of butter, half an 
 ounce of powdered cinnamon, half an ounce of 
 ground ginger, an ounce of candied lemon, 
 orange, and citron together, cut into thin slices, 
 and a pinch of salt. Let these simmer gently 
 for five or six minutes, stirring all the time, 
 then pour the mixture into a bowl, and, when 
 cool, add as much finely-sifted fiour as will 
 make it into a solid batter. Bake in a slow oven 
 on buttered tins, in small rounds, placed at a 
 little distance from each other. Time to bake, 
 three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 per pound. 
 
 GATEAU DE NOUILLES. 
 
 Take the yolks of five eggs and the white 
 of one, and sufficient flour to form a stiff 
 paste; roll it out as thin as a wafer, then 
 
GAT 
 
 213 
 
 GAT 
 
 roll it up very lightly, and cut it into strings as 
 fine as a packthread ; shake the strings together 
 and throw them into water already boiling on the 
 fire ; let them boil five minutes. Then put them 
 into a colander, and let some cold water run 
 through it ; drain it well. Butter a mould, 
 sprinkle it well with fine bread-crumbs, then 
 put in the nouilles prepared as above, mixed 
 with a quarter of a pound of sugar and the 
 grated peel of a lemon. Melt two ounces of 
 butter and pour over this ; sprinkle some bread- 
 crumbs on top, and bake in a moderate oven for 
 three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 
 GATEAU DE POMMES. 
 
 Take half a pound of loaf sugar, put it into a 
 saucepan with half a pint of water, and let it 
 boil to a thick syrup. Put with it one pound of 
 nicely-flavoured apples, weighed after they are 
 pared and cored, and the thinly-sliced rind and 
 juice of a small lemon. Stir the contents of the 
 saucepan constantly, and boil until they are 
 stiff." A tea-spoonful of isinglass may be added, 
 if liked. Press the gateau into a damp mould, 
 and when it is firm, turn it out, and serve with 
 custard round it. Time, about three-quarters 
 of an hour. Sufficient for a small mould. Prob- 
 able cost, 9d., exclusive of the custard. 
 
 GATEAU DE RIZ (French Rice Pudding). 
 
 Put four ounces of rice into a saucepan, with 
 a quart of new milk, two table-spoonfuls of 
 sugar, and the rind of half a lemon. Simmer 
 gently until the rice is tender and the milk ab- 
 sorbed. Let it cool, then mix with it the well- 
 beaten yolks of six large eggs. Pour a little 
 clarified butter into a copper cake-mould, and 
 turn it round on an incline until the butter has 
 coated every part of it and is firm. Sprinkle 
 some finely-grated bread-crumbs in the mould, 
 and shake it' well, bo that they may cover the 
 surface evenly. Beat the whites of the eggs to 
 o. firm froth, and mix them with the rice, then 
 put it very gently into the mould, so as not to 
 displace the crumbs, and bake in a moderate 
 oven for one hour. The pudding should turn out 
 firm and brown, looking like a cake. Probable 
 cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for a good-sized mould. 
 GATEAU DE SEMOULE (French Semolina Pudding). 
 
 Put a quart of new milk into a saucepan, with 
 the thin rind of a lemon, and let it stand by the 
 side of the fire until the flavour is thoroughly 
 extracted; then take out the rind, and let the 
 milk boil. Throw in five ounces of semolina, a 
 lump of butter the size of a large egg, a tiny 
 pinch of salt, and four table-spoonfuls of sugar. 
 Simmer gently for a quarter of an hour, stir- 
 ring all the time, and add gradually the yolks 
 of six eggs well beaten. Prepare a mould as 
 for G-ATEATJ DE Riz. Just before putting the 
 semolina into the mould, add the whites of four 
 eggs, beaten to a firm froth. Bake in a mode- 
 rate oven. Both this gteau and the GiTKAXJ DK 
 Eiz may be agreeably varied by flavouring the 
 milk with vanilla, cocoa-nut, or almonds, in- 
 stead of lemon. Time to bake, one hour and a 
 half. Probable cost, Is. 2d. Sufficient for a 
 good-sized mould. 
 
 GATEAU, NAPOLITAINE. 
 
 Cut a large round spongecake ii^to slices 
 nearly an inch thick. Spread a little good jam 
 
 on each slice, and replace it in its original posi- 
 tion, allowing it to soak in a little noyeau or 
 maraschino before another slice is placed upon 
 it. The topmost piece of cake should have jam 
 on the under side. Sweeten a breakfast-cupful 
 of thick cream, and flavour it according to 
 taste. Pour this round the cake, which should 
 be ornamented with sugar-icing, coloured with 
 cochineal. Time, one hour to prepare. Prob- 
 able cost, exclusive of the noyeau or maras- 
 chino, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for a moderate-sized 
 dish. 
 
 GATEAU OF HARE. 
 
 Take the remains of cold hare. Scrape all 
 the meat from the skin and sinews, and pound 
 it in a mortar, with the liver of the. hare, a 
 piece of calf's liver (previously boiled), a slice 
 of lean ham, and a small piece of butter. When 
 well pounded, mix with it half its bulk in 
 crumb of bread, which has been soaked in a 
 little cold stock or hare soup, and a table-spoon- 
 ful of brandy. Add well-beaten eggs till the 
 mixture is of the consistency of a firm batter, 
 pour it into a well-buttered mould, place two 
 or three slices of fat bacon on the top, tie the 
 whole in a floured cloth, and boil gently for an 
 hour or more, being careful that the water is 
 not sufficiently high in the saucepan to enter 
 the mould. Turn out the gateau, and pour round 
 it a sauce made of good hare stock, highly- 
 seasoned and flavoured with port wine and red 
 currant jelly. The gateau may be baked if 
 preferred. Probable cost, etc., according to the 
 size. 
 
 GATEAU OF MIXED FRUITS. 
 
 Put one pound of small green apples, pared 
 and cored, into a saucepan, with a little water 
 to prevent burning. Boil until the apples are 
 reduced to pulp, then add their weight in sugar, 
 and boil for a few minutes longer. Pour in 
 half a pint of red currant juice, and half a pint 
 of raspberry, or any other fruit juice that may 
 be liked and at hand. A little isinglass or gela- 
 tine may be added, to assist in stiffening. Pour 
 the gateau into a damped mould, and serve in 
 a glass dish with custard. Time, nearly one 
 hour. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for a pint 
 mould. 
 
 GATEAU RUSSE. 
 
 Beat eight eggs well together (yolks and 
 whites) for twenty minutes, add eight ounces of 
 sifted sugar, stirring all the time, a tea-spoon- 
 ful of baking-powder, and eight ounces of flour. 
 Pour into shallow tins greased and papered, and 
 bake for five minutes. Turn out on paper with 
 sifted sugar. When cold, cut the cake into 
 rounds of whatever size required, put one on 
 top of the other, with a layer of apricot jam be- 
 tween each round. Cut the centres out of the 
 three top rounds. Decorate the sides with a 
 trellis of sugar-icing, fill the centre with 
 whipped cream, and border with green pre- 
 served fruit cut into patterns of stars, dia- 
 monds, and triangles. 
 
 GATEAU WITH APRICOTS. 
 
 Cut the top off a stale Madeira cake, and re- 
 move a large piece out of the centre, leaving a 
 wall of cake two inches thick all rovnd. Take 
 the contents of a tin of preserved apricots, and 
 
GAU 
 
 214 
 
 GEN 
 
 etew them with a tea-cupful of sugar for fifteen 
 minutes. Fill up the centre of the dish with 
 the apricots, and put on the top. Boil up the 
 syrup, and pour enough of it over the cake to 
 soak it. When cold, coyer with a thick custard 
 or whipped cream. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 
 GAUFFRES (an easy way to make). 
 
 Clarify a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, 
 and mix it with a pound of sifted loaf sugar, 
 one pound of best flour, eight eggs well beaten, 
 two table-spoonfuls of brandy, a tiny pinch of 
 salt, a stick of pounded vanilla, and one or two 
 grates of nutmeg. Drop the mixture on well- 
 buttered baking-tins, in rounds the size of the 
 top of a wine-glass, and, as soon as they are 
 baked, curl them round a reed. Let them dry 
 in a cool oven or before the fire, and shake a 
 little sifted sugar over them before serving. A 
 little good jam may be spread lightly on them, 
 or they may be filled with whipped cream. 
 Time, a few minutes to bake. Probable cost, 
 2s. 4d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufiicient, a 
 few may be put round a mould of jelly or blanc- 
 mange. 
 
 GAUFFRES, FLEMISH. 
 
 Beat the ^olks of six eggs with one pound of 
 fine flour, mix thoroughly, and add rather more 
 than a pint of milk, a quarter of a pound of 
 butter, a small pinch of salt, and a tea-spoonful 
 of yeast. Mix with a wooden spoon until the 
 flour is quite smooth, and leave it three- 
 quarters of an hour to rise ; then add a glass of 
 brandy, and the whites of the eggs beaten to a 
 firm froth. Heat the gaufEre-irons over or in a 
 clear slow fire. When sufiiciently hot, rub the 
 inside with a little clarified butter or fresh lard. 
 
 GAtTFFEE-IBONS. 
 
 and fill one side of the irons with a little of the 
 batter. Bake a few minutes, and when the 
 gauffre is brightly browned on one side, turn 
 the irons over to brown it on the other. The 
 irons may be opened a little, to see if it is 
 done. Turn the gauffre out, rub the inside of 
 the iron with a little more butter, and repeat 
 this with each gauffre. Set the gauffres in a 
 cool oven or before the fire. Serve quite hot, 
 and dust a little sugar over before serving. If 
 any are left, they may be warmed again before 
 the fire or in the oven. Before attempting to 
 make gauffres it is well to see them made. 
 Probable cost. Is. 3d. for this quantity. Suf- 
 ficient, twelve or eighteen for a dish. 
 
 GAUFFRES, PARISIENNE. 
 
 Put half a pound of fiour into a basin, with a 
 quarter of a pound of castor sugar slightly 
 flavoured with vanilla, a pinch of salt, two or 
 three eggs, n, table-spoonful of brandy and two 
 of melted butter, and a little warm water. Mix 
 all together to a thin paste. Heat the gauffre- 
 irons, brush over with clarified butter, and 
 cover one side with a spoonful of the batter 
 paste. Close the mould, and cook over the fire 
 on both sides. When done, roll round a 
 
 wooden roller to give them a circular ehape. 
 Probable cost. Is. 
 
 GELATINE AND ISINGLASS JELLY. 
 
 (See Isinglass and Gelatine Jbllt.) 
 
 GELATINE JELLY. 
 
 Where economy is a consideration, as it is in 
 the majority of homes, pretty and palatable 
 dishes may be made from gelatine. The objec- 
 tion to the use of this article is that it often 
 imparts a gluey taste to the jelly, the only 
 remedy for which is that care should be taken to 
 obtain as good a quality of gelatine as possible, 
 and not to use a larger quantity than is neces- 
 sary for the firmness of the dish. Soak the gela- 
 tine in water until it swells; this will be in 
 about an hour. Dissolve it in a little boiling 
 water for a few minutes, add wine, lemon-juice, 
 sugar, and flavouring according to taste, and 
 pour into a damp mould. Keep it in a cool 
 place until firmly set. If very stiff, it may be 
 turned out more easily if dipped in boiling 
 water for a moment. Probable cost, 6d. per 
 quart. 
 
 GENEVA BUNS. 
 
 Hub two ounces of butter into a pound of 
 flour, add a pinch of salt, and set the sponge to 
 rise with a desser1>spoonful of good yeast, mixed 
 with half a pint of milk. Let it stand for 
 nearly an hour, then work it into a light dough, 
 adding a well-beaten egg, mixed with a little 
 lukewarm milk. A little sugar, a few cur- 
 rants, and some chopped candied lemon may be 
 added. Cover the bowl which contains the 
 dough with a cloth, and put it by the side of the 
 fire to rise. In about half an hour make it up 
 into rolls; brush these over with beaten egg, 
 and bake in a good oven for twenty minutes or 
 more. Probable cost. Id. each. Allow one or 
 two for each person. 
 
 GENEVA BUNS (another way). 
 
 Eub three ounces of butter into, two pounds 
 of flour, and set the sponge with a table-spoon- 
 ful of yeast, mixed with a pint of new milk; 
 add a little salt, and some saffron water, if 
 liked. Let it rise one hour. Beat two eggs, 
 and stir in a quarter of a pint of hot milk ; then 
 knead up the dough with the eggs when milk- 
 warm. Let the dough stay before the fire half 
 an hour longer, thjn make small rolls, brush 
 them with yolk of" egg, and bake them from 
 twenty to thirty minutes. If a rich bun is 
 desired, add six ounces of sugar, three ounces 
 of butter, half a pound of currants, the grated 
 rind of a lemon, and two ounces of candied 
 orange-peel. Probable cost. Id, each. Suf- 
 ficient for eighteen buns. 
 
 GENEVA PUDDING (sometimes called George Pud- 
 ding), 
 
 Put half a cupful of best Carolina rice into a 
 saucepan with a pint of new milk, a piece of 
 butter the size of a nut, four table-spoonfuls of 
 8Ugar,_ and three cloves. Simmer gently till 
 the milk is absorbed, and the rice quite tender. 
 Take out the cloves, beat the rice thoroughly, 
 and add twelve large apples, boiled till reduced 
 to a pulp. When cold, mix with the rice and 
 apples four well-beaten eggs, and a glass of 
 sherry. Pour the mixture tnto a Well-buttered 
 pie-dish, and bake in a moderate oven till 
 
GEN 
 
 245 
 
 GEN 
 
 lightly browned^ Serve with wine sauee. Time, 
 three-quarters of an hour to bake. Probable 
 cost. Is. 3d., exchisive of the wine. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. 
 
 GENEVA WAFERS (a pretty dish for a juvenile party). 
 Rub a, quarter of a pound of fresh butter to 
 M, cream, and mix with it, very smoothly, a 
 quarter of a pound of flour, and three eggs, 
 thoroughly whisked. Add three drops of the 
 essence of vanilla, and three table-spoonfuls of 
 pounded sugar. Beat with a wooden spoon 
 until the ingredients are thoroughly mixed, 
 then drop a dessert-spoonful at a time on a well- 
 buttered baking-sheet, and put the wafers in a 
 moderate oven. When sufficiently baked, take 
 thsm out of the oven, twist them very care- 
 fully, or they will break, to the shape of small 
 cornucopise, and put them in the oven a minute 
 or two longer to get crisp. Half fill them with 
 jam, and put a little whipped cream on the 
 jam. The cream put in half of them might be 
 slightly coloured with cochineal. Time, a 
 quarter of an hour, or less, to bake. Probable 
 cost, 9d. Sufficient for a good-sized dish. 
 
 GENEVESE SAUCE (for Salmon, Trout, etc.). 
 
 Put two ounces of fresh butter into a stew- 
 pan. Let it melt, then add three ounces of 
 lean ham, cut into small pieces, a sprig of 
 thyme, a sprig of parsley, a scraped carrot, a 
 bay-leaf, a blade of mace, and a small onion 
 stuck with three cloves. Stir the ingredients 
 quickly over the fire, then mix in, very 
 smoothly, one table-spoonful of flour. Beat the 
 paste with a wooden spoon, and pour in by de- 
 grees one pint of good stock. Let all stew 
 gently for an hour. Strain, and return the 
 sauce to the pan, thickening it with a little 
 flour and butter, and adding a large wine-glass- 
 ful of white wine, and a dessert-spoonful of 
 lemon-juice. Season with salt and cayenne. 
 Let the sauce boil after the thickening is added, 
 and serve as hot as possible. Probable cost. 
 Is. 6d. per pint. Sufficient for three or four 
 pounds of fish. 
 
 GENOA CAKE. 
 
 Mix a quarter of a pound of currants, a 
 quarter of a pound of raisins, a quarter of a 
 pound of candied lemon, orange, and citron to- 
 gether — all being finely minced — as much 
 powdered cinnamon as will stand on a three- 
 penny piece, six table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, 
 half a pound of flour, and the finely-chopped 
 rind of a fresh lemon. Beat these ingredients 
 for several minutes, with half a pound of clari- 
 fied butter, four well-beaten eggs, and two 
 table-spoonfuls of brandy. Put the mixture in 
 a well-buttered shallow tin, and bake about 
 three-quarters of an hour. Mix the white of an 
 egg with a table-spoonful of powdered loaf 
 sugar, and a tea^spoonful of sherry. Brush the 
 top of i;he cake with this, and strew some finely- 
 chopped blanched almonds on the surface. Put 
 it in the oven a few minutes longer, to brown 
 the almonds slightly. Probable cost. Is. lOd., 
 exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for a tin two 
 and a half inches deep, and four inches square. 
 
 GENOA SAUCE FOR FISH. 
 
 Pound smoothly in a mortar half a clove of 
 garlic, three dessert-spoonfuls of capers, a des- 
 
 sert-spoonful of curry-powder, a tea-spoonful 
 of raw mustard, and six boned anchovies. When 
 thoroughly mixed, add four table-spoonfuls of 
 sherry, a small tumblerful of cold water, and 
 three table-spoonfuls of vinegar. Boil all to- 
 gether in a saucepan, and mix in half a pint of 
 good melted butter. Time, a quarter of an 
 hour to boil. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for 
 one pint of sauce. 
 
 GENOESE CAKE. 
 
 Melt half a pound of butter by letting it 
 stand near the fire. Mix thoroughly half a 
 pound of flour, half a pound of sugar, a pinch 
 of salt, and the finely-minced rind of a lemon. 
 Make them into a paste with a wine-glassful of 
 brandy, foUr eggs, well beaten, and the clarified 
 butter. Beat for ten minutes with a wooden 
 spoon. Pour the mixture into a well-buttered 
 pie-dish, and bake in a moderate oven. When 
 the cake is sufficiently cooked (this may be 
 ascertained by pushing a skewer into it, and if 
 it comes out dry and clean the cake is done 
 enough), take it out, and cover it with sugar and 
 blanched almonds (see Genoa Cake). Time, 
 three-quartei's of an hour to bake, a quarter of 
 an hour extra to brown the almonds. Suf- 
 ficient for a pudding-dish two inches deep and 
 five inches square. Probable cost. Is 6d., ex- 
 clusive of the brandy. 
 
 GENOESE SAUCE FOR FISH. 
 
 Make half a pint of good, brown sauce, thick- 
 ened with a little flour and butter. Put it into 
 a saucepan, and stir into it a table-spoonful of' 
 finely-minced parsley, a table-spoonful of port, 
 twenty drops of the essence of anchovies, a. 
 dessert-spoonful of walnut ketchup, and as 
 much pounded mace as will stand on a three- 
 penny piece. Boil for five or six minutes, stir- 
 ring all the time, and serve in a tureen. Time, 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost, exclusive of 
 the port, 6d. for this quantity. Sufficient for 
 rather more than half a pint of sauce. 
 GENOISESDENOUILLES ;sometimescalIedGenoises 
 k la Reine). 
 
 Beat thoroughly the yolks of four eggs, and 
 mix with them as much dried flour as will make 
 a thick batter. Divide this into four parts, and 
 roll each out as thin as possible. By the time 
 all are rolled; the first one will be sufficiently 
 dry to be cut into small strips, as thin as twine. 
 Spread them on writing paper, and place them 
 before the fire to dry. Drop them into a pint 
 and a half of boiling milk, with six ounces of 
 butter, six ounces of sugar, a pinch of salt, and 
 the flnely-grated rind of a large lemon. Sim- 
 mer gently for thirty-five minutes, when the 
 mixture should be a thick batter. It must be 
 well stirred, particularly at first, to prevent it 
 forming into lumps. Pour it out, and, as it 
 cools, add the yolks of six eggs, well beaten. 
 Butter a baking-tin, and pour the paste 
 smoothly and evenly over it, making it about a 
 quarter of an inch in thickness. Bake in a 
 moderate oven until lightly browned. When it 
 is sufficiently cooked, divide it into two parts, 
 spread a little jam over one half, turn the other 
 half upon it, stamp out in fancy shapes with a 
 cutter, and pile the genoises in a dish. This 
 mixture is very good baked in tartlet-tins, and 
 eaten while hot. It does not improve with 
 
GEN 
 
 246 
 
 GER 
 
 keeping. Time, twenty minutes to bake. 
 Probable cost, 28. for this quantity. 
 
 GENOISES GLACE (a I'ltalienne). 
 
 Mix well together five ounces of castor sugar 
 and five eggs ; add a quarter of a pound of 
 sweet almonds pounded, and the same quantity 
 of flour. Butter a baking-sheet, roll the paste 
 to the thickness of a crown piece, lay it on the 
 sheet, and bake to a good colour in a quick 
 oven. When done, cut it any desired shapes. 
 Clerify a pound of sugar (see Suqab, Clabipied), 
 put the pan into cold water, and mix thoroughly 
 with the sugar the whites of five eggs previously 
 well whisked. Glaze the tops of the genoises 
 with this, and set them to dry for a quarter of 
 an hotir in a cool oven. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 GERMAN ASPARAGUS SOUP. 
 
 Make two quarts of good white soup, either 
 from bones or fresh meat (.see Stock). Season it 
 lyith salt and pepper, and thicken with a little 
 flour, mixed in milk till it is of the consistence 
 of cream. Cut the green part of one hundred 
 heads of asparagus into pieces, three-quarters 
 of an inch long, put them into the saucepan, and 
 boil until they are tender, but they must not 
 be overcooked. If it is desired that the soup 
 should be a little richer, add the yolks of three 
 eggs, mixed with a little milk. The soup must 
 be drawn from the fire a minute or two before 
 the eggs are put in, and it must not boil after 
 they are added. Time, one hour, exclusive of 
 the -stock. Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 Probable cost, 9d. per quart. 
 
 GERMAN BISCUITS. 
 
 Whisk two eggs thoroughly, and stir into 
 them half a pound of sifted loaf sugar. Beat 
 them for twenty minutes, then add the peel of 
 a small lemon, grated, two dessert-spoonfuls 
 of cream, and, gradually, half a pound of fine 
 flour. Mix all well together, roll the pastry 
 out very thin, stamp it, with an ordinary pastry- 
 cutter, into different shapes, and bake in but- 
 tered tins, in a quick oven, till lightly coloured, 
 which will be in about seven or eight minutes. 
 Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 GERMAN BROTH, OR WINTER HOTCHPOTCH. 
 
 Boil gently for one hour and a half a neck of 
 mutton, weighing about three pounds, in as 
 much water as will cover it, with one pound of 
 dried green peas, which have been soaked in 
 cold water for some hours, one pint and a half 
 of carrots and turnips cut into slices, and half 
 an ounce of bruised celery-seed, tied in a piece 
 of muslin. Add one pound of mutton chops, 
 cut from the best end of the neck, a des- 
 sert-spoonful of salt, and a tea-spoonful of 
 pepper. Boil half an hour longer, and serve. 
 Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 GERMAN CAKES. 
 
 Beat three-quarters of a pound of butter to 
 a cream. Mix with it one pound and a half of 
 sugar, four eggs — well beaten — two pounds of 
 fine flour, half a nutmeg grated, one pound of 
 dried and picked currants, and half a wine- 
 glassful of rose-water. When all these ingre- 
 dients are well-blended, roll the dough into 
 sheets about the eighth of an inch in thickness, 
 stamp them in rounds with the top of a tea-cup. 
 
 and bake in a quick oven. Time, to bake ten or 
 fifteen minutes. Probable cost. Is. lOd. 
 
 GERMAN CREAM. 
 
 This delicacy should be made in the evening of 
 the day before it is wanted. Put half a pint of 
 cream into a saucepan, with two table-spoonfuls 
 of sugar and the thinly-cut rind of half a lemon. 
 Let it stand near the fire for half an hour, to 
 draw out the flavour of the lemon, then bring 
 it quickly to a boil, strain it, let it grow cold] 
 and add the juice of the lemon, with tnree table- 
 spoonfuls of brandy. Pour the cream quickly 
 backwards and forwards from one jug to 
 another, from a good height, for twenty min- 
 utes, then put it into the dish in which it is to 
 be served. Probable cost, lOd., exclusive of the 
 brandy. Sufficient for nearly three-quarters of 
 a pint of cream. 
 
 GERMAN DUMPLINGS, OR DAMPFNUDELN. 
 
 Mix two table-spoonfu^ls of fresh yeast, or 
 one ounce of German yeast, with a cupful of 
 lukewarm milk. Add one table-ispoonful of 
 sifted sugar, two eggs, well beaten, and a 
 quarter of a pound of butter, melted, but not. 
 oiled. When these ingredients are well mixed, 
 add one pound of flour, and beat with a wooden 
 spoon until the mixture is smooth and light, 
 and drops from the spoon. Cover the bowl 
 which contains it with a cloth, and put it in a 
 warm place for half an hour or more, to rise. 
 Turn it out on a well-floured pastry-t)oard, 
 divide it into small balls about the size of an 
 egg, and let them rise a few minutes longer. 
 Butter the bottom of a shallow tin rather 
 thickly. Strew a little powdered sugar over it, 
 and put in milk an inch deep. Let this boil. 
 Place the dumplings in the pan as gently as 
 possible, or roll them in off an egg-slicer, and 
 leave a little distance between each. Put on 
 the cover, place the pan in the oven, and bake 
 until the milk is boiled away, and the dump- 
 lings have acquired a nice brown crust. Put 
 them on a hot dish, and send stewed fruit, 
 sweet sauce, or custard to table with them. 
 Time, three-quarters of an hour for the dump- 
 lings to brown ; or a quarter of an hour for them 
 to rise, and ten minutes to bake. Probable 
 cost, lOd. for this quantity. Sufficient for 
 twelve dumplings. 
 
 GERMAN FRITTERS, OR BRIOCHE FRITTERS. 
 
 Take as much brioche paste (see Bbioche 
 Paste) as may be required. Roll it out till it 
 is a quarter of an inch in thickness. Stamp it 
 into small rounds with the top of a wine glass, 
 put a small piece of jam on half of these, 
 moisten the edges, and cover each one with a 
 similar round to that on which the jam is laid. 
 Press the two pieces of paste securely together, 
 lay the wine-glass or cutter once more over 
 them, to trim them evenly; then put the frit- 
 ters gently and carefully into a pan of hot fat, 
 and fry them until lightly browned. When 
 done, drain them from the fat, and serve as 
 hot as possible. They should be piled on a hot 
 napkin, with a little sifted sugar and powdered 
 cinnamon strewn over them. 
 
 GERMAN FRITTERS (another sort). 
 
 Take seven or eight large sound baking 
 apples, pare them, and scoop out the core with- 
 
GER 
 
 a47 
 
 GER 
 
 out breaking tlie apples. Cut them into round 
 slices about a quarter of an incli in thickness, 
 aiid simmer them in a saucepan, with a cupful 
 of brandy, the thin' rind of a lemon, and a 
 table-spoonful of sugar, till they are tender, 
 but unbroken. Drain them, dip them into a 
 little ftour, and. fry them in hot fat till they 
 are lightly browned. Put them on a hot dish, 
 and strain a little finely-sifted sugar over them. 
 Time, altogether, half an hour. Probable cost, 
 lOd., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 
 GERMAN FRYING BATTER. 
 
 Thoroughly mix six ounces of flour with one 
 ounce of melted, but not oiled, butter, the yolk 
 of an egg, and two table-spoonfuls of water.- 
 Add a pinch of salt, and, very gradually, a 
 quarter of a pint of mild ale. Beat the in- 
 ~gredients with a wooden "spoon till they are 
 smoothly blended. This batter is better for 
 being made two or three hours before it is 
 wanted. Just before using,' add the White of an 
 egg, beaten to a stiff froth. Time, twenty 
 minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 3d. for 
 this quantity. Sufficient for about one and a 
 half or two pounds of meat or vegetables. 
 
 GERMAN MUSTARD. 
 
 Take half a pint of good white vinegar, a 
 sprig of fresh tarragon, a bay-leaf, a small 
 onion chopped, a clove of garlic minced small, 
 six crushed cloves, half a tea-spoonful of black - 
 peppercorns crushed, and a salt-spoonful of 
 salt. Boil these together, strain, and when 
 the strained liquor has cooled a little, mix it 
 with sufficient pure mustard to make it of the 
 proper consistency for use. 
 
 GERMAN OMELETTE. 
 
 E'ry, a quarter of a pound of bacon cut into 
 dice. When, done, beat up eight eggs with 
 pepjper and salt to taste, add them to the bacon, 
 and fry all together. Stir until it gets thick, 
 and then turn it out into a very hot dish, and 
 serve. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 GERMAN ONION BEEF. 
 
 Put four or five pounds of the thin end of the 
 flank of beef into a stewpan, with sufficient 
 water to cover it, one dessert-spoonful of salt 
 and a little muslin bag containing one dozen 
 bruised cloves, two dozen peppercorns, one bay- 
 leaf, and the thin rind of a .large lemon. Sim- 
 mer gently for forty minutes. Add eight large 
 onions, cut into slices, and simmer again till 
 they are tender. Remove the scum carefully 
 as it Tises. Take out the -muslin bag, and 
 thicken the gravy with one table-spoonful of 
 flour, mixed with two of cold, water. Serve the 
 meat in the same dish, which should be made 
 hot, together with the onions, etc. Time, an 
 hour and a quarter. Probable cost, beef, 9d. per 
 pound. Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 GERMAN PASTE. 
 
 Mix one pound of fine flour with two ounces 
 of -poUTided sugar, a pinch of salt, and the 
 grated rind of half a lemon. Eub in half a 
 pound of butter, and make it into a smooth 
 paste with the yolks of two eggs beaten with a 
 table-spoonful of water. Roll the paste out in 
 thin sheets, and fold it over two or three times. 
 
 If intended for fruit pies or tarts, the sngat 
 is better omitted. Time, twenty minutes to 
 prepare. Probable cost, lOd. for this quantity. 
 
 GERMAN PUDDING, BAKED. 
 
 Put a pint of new milk into a saucepan, with 
 the thinly-peeled rind of a large lemon. Let it 
 stand by the side of the fire, to draw out the 
 flavour' of the lemon, and, when it is warm, stir 
 into it till melted a quarter of a pound of fresh 
 butter. Let it get nearly cold. Mix two ounces 
 of flour very smoothly with a little cold milk, 
 and mix it gradually with the milk and butter. 
 Sweeten the mixture with two table-spoonfuls 
 of sugar, and put in the jrolks of four, and the 
 whites of. two, eggs, well-beaten. Three-parts 
 fill some well-buttered cups with the mixture; 
 bake till firm. Put two well-beaten eggs, two 
 glasses of sherry, and four lumps of sugar into 
 an enamelled- saucepan. Beat over the fire to a 
 froth, pour round the puddings, and serve im- 
 mediately. Time to bake, half an hour. Prob- 
 able cost, Is., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient 
 for eight or nine cups. 
 
 GERMAM PUDDING, BOILED. 
 
 Put the thin rind of a large lemon into half 
 a pint of milk. Let the milk stand for half an 
 hour, then boil, and pour it over half a pound 
 of stale crumbs of bread, finely grated. "When 
 cool, beat it with a fork, take out the lemon- 
 rind, and add three ounces of butter, three 
 ounces of sugar, and four eggs, well beaten. 
 Butter a plain round mould rather thickly, put 
 in a layer of the soaked bread-crumbSj etc., 
 then a layer of either good jam or marmalade, 
 and repeat until the mould is full. Put soaked 
 bread at the top. Cover with buttered paper., 
 put the mould in a pan, and boil or steam the 
 pudding. Serve with German pudding sauce 
 (see German Pudding Sauce). ^ Time to boil 
 or steam, an hour and a half. Probable cost. 
 Is. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 GERMAN PUDDING, BROWN BREAD. 
 
 Collect as many pieces of stale brown bread 
 as will make half a pound of crumbs, and ruT» 
 them through a sieve, then soak for half an 
 hour in a wine-glassful of sherry or boiling milk, 
 and mix with it two ounces of fresh butter, 
 three table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar, two ounces 
 of sweet almonds, blanched and pounded, a tea- 
 spoonful of fin3ly-chopped lemgn-rind, half a 
 tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, two table- 
 spoonfuls of picked raisins, the same of cur- 
 rants, and the well-beaten yolks of six eggs. 
 ■When these ingredients are thoroughly blended, 
 butter a mould, add to the above-mentioned 
 ingredients the whites of the eggs, beaten to a 
 firm froth, pour the mi.xture into the mould, 
 and boil or steam the pudding. When suf- 
 ficiently cooked, turn it out, and serve with 
 wine or' German pudding sauce (see GeemaN 
 PuDDiNs Sauce). Time to boil, an hour and a 
 half. Probable cost. Is. 2d., exclusive of the 
 wine and sauce. Sufficient for five or sis 
 persons. 
 
 GERMAN PUDDING, RICE (excellent). 
 
 Stew a quarter of a pound of the best Carolina 
 
 rice in a pint of milk, till it is very tender and 
 
 dry ; let it cool, then mix with it a quarter of a 
 
 , pound of fresh butter, two ounces of sweet 
 
GER 
 
 248 
 
 GER 
 
 almonds, blanched and pounded, three table- 
 spoonfuls of sifted loaf sugar, three ounces of 
 stoned raisins, half a tea-spoonful of powdered 
 cinnamon, and the yolks of three eggs. Add 
 each ingredient separately, and mix thoroughly. 
 Butter a mould, and, just before pouring the 
 mixture in, add the whites of the egg^, beaten 
 to a solid froth. Cover with buttered paper, 
 tie in a cloth, and boil. Turn out, and serve 
 with German pudding sauce (see German Pud- 
 ding Sauce). Boil an hour and a, half. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 GERMAN PUDDING SAUCE. 
 
 Heat half a pint of white wine with three 
 large lumps of sugar. When quite hot, pour 
 the wine over the yolks of two eggs, and beat 
 thoroughly over a slow fire, till it froths and 
 looks like custard. The sauce must on no 
 account boil, or it will curdle. Just before 
 serving, add the juice of a lemon. Time, a few 
 minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 3d., ex- 
 clusive of the wine. Sufficient for nearly three- 
 quarters of a pint of sauce. This is a very good 
 sauce for a boiled pudding. 
 
 GERMAN PUFFS. 
 
 Put a. quarter of a pint of new milk into a 
 saucepan, with two ounces of fresh butter. 
 V/hen it boils, mix smoothly with it two table- 
 spoonfuls of flour, a pinch of salt, half a small 
 nutmeg, grated, and one heaped table-spoonful 
 of sugar. When cool, add two well-beaten 
 eggs. Butter some cups, rather more than, half 
 fill them with the mixture, and bake in a good 
 oven. Serve as hot as possible, with wine or 
 sweet sauce. Time, twenty minutes to bake. 
 Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for five cups. 
 
 GERMAN PUFFS, ALMOND. 
 
 Blanch and pound one ounce of sweet, and 
 two of bitter almonds, with a little orange- 
 flower or rose-water; add four table-spoonfuls 
 of new milk, and a dessert-spoonful of flour, 
 smoothly mixed with another table-spoonful of 
 milk, the yolks of three and the whites of two 
 Eggs, a tiny pinch of salt, and a table-spoonful 
 of sugar. Beat thoroughly. Butter some cups, 
 rather more than half fill them, and bake in a 
 quick oven. Serve as hot as possible, with wine 
 or sweet sauce. Time to bake, a quarter of an 
 hour. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for four 
 cups. 
 
 GERMAN SALAD. 
 
 Take any kind of cold boiled vegetable, such 
 as cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, pota- 
 toes, seaiale, or a little of three or four kinds. 
 Cut them into small pieces, and, if the flavour 
 is liked, add chopped onion, or chopped raw 
 apple. Season with pepper and salt, and add 
 two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and four of oil, 
 to every two pounds of vegetables. Serve in a 
 salad-bowl, and garnish with sliced beetroot 
 and parsley. Time, a quarter of an hour to 
 prepare. 
 
 GERMAN SAUCE (for brawn, cold pickled Pork, 
 
 or Boar's head). 
 
 Dissolve a quarter of a pound of red currant 
 
 jelly, and mix with it the juice, and thinly- 
 
 ehredded rind of a large orange, a heaped table- 
 
 spoonful of scraped horse-radish, a table-spoon- 
 ful of finely-sifted sugar, a dessert-spoonful of 
 mixed mustard, two J;able-spoonf uls of vinegar, 
 and four of salad-oil. Put the sauce in a cool 
 place till wanted, and send to table in a tureen. 
 Time, twenty minutes to prepare. Probable 
 cost, 9d. Sufficient for half a pint of sauce. 
 
 GERMAN SOUP. 
 
 Fry half an ounce of cummin-seed in a little 
 hot butter, for a. few minutes ; keep moving 
 them about all the time. Pour upon them three 
 pints of good, nicely-flavoured chicken-broth, 
 and simmer gently for nearly an hour. Season 
 with pepper and salt, put some toasted sippets 
 in the tureen, and strain the soup over them. 
 Sufficient for three pints of soup. 
 
 GERMAN TOAST. 
 
 Take the remains of any cold stew, or 
 fricassee. Mince it finely, and mix with a pint 
 of it, including the gravy, two well-beaten eggs, 
 one table-spoonful of chopped parsley, and one 
 onion, finely minced. Stir the mixture over a 
 slow fire until it is reduced by one-third. Let 
 it get quite cold. Spread it on pieces of toast, 
 brush it over with beaten egg, strew bread- 
 crumbs on the top, and bake in a moderate 
 oven. Just before serving, squeeze a little 
 lemon-juice over the toast. Time to bake, a 
 quarter of an hour, or until the toast is thor- 
 oughly heated through. 
 
 GERMAN YEAST. 
 
 German yeast is now very generally used, 
 owing to the difficulty of obtaining good 
 brewer's yeast. It is very excellent when it can 
 be obtained fresh and sweet, but care should be 
 taken that it is so, as it quickly deteriorates in 
 quality, and is then exceedingly unwholesome. 
 It should be dissolved very gradually, with a 
 little warm water, or warm milk and water, and 
 stirred until it is perfectly smooth and creamy. 
 Probable cost. Id. per ounce. Sufficient, one 
 ounce for a quartern, half a gallon, or three 
 pounds and a half of flour. 
 
 GERMAN YEAST BREAD. 
 
 Put some flour (the quantity to be regulated 
 by the size of the family) into a bowl. To one' 
 quartern allow one tea-spoonful of salt, one 
 ounce of German yeast, and one quart of new 
 milk. Dissolve the yeast smoothly and gradu- 
 ally with a little lukewarm milk or water; 
 make a hole in the middle of the flour, and put 
 it in; mix it with sufficient flour to make a 
 batter ; strew a little flour over the top, and 
 allow the leaven to rise. When it is swollen 
 and cracked, the bread should be kneaded at 
 once, and should be done thoroughly, as on this 
 its quality very much depends. It should be 
 quite firm and smooth. Leave it in the bowl, 
 make one or two slight gashes with a knife on 
 the surface, cover it with a cloth, and, if it be 
 winter time, leave it near the fire to rise, but 
 not sufficiently near to make it hot. In about 
 an hour it will have risen considerably, and be 
 ready for making into loaves of any size that 
 may be desired. Let them rise a minute or two 
 after being put into the tins, and prick them 
 lightly in one or two places with a fork, to let 
 the steam escape. Bake in a good oven. Time 
 to bake, about two hours for a quartern loaf. 
 
GHE 
 
 249 
 
 GIB 
 
 If a larger quantity of flour is used, so that all 
 the dough cannot be baked at once, that which 
 is left in the. bowl must be kept in a mod- 
 erate temperature, neither very warm nor very 
 cold. 
 
 GHERKINS. 
 
 Gherkins are young cucumbers, and are only 
 used for pickling. They should be gathered on 
 a dry day, and those in one bottle should be, 
 as nearly as possible, uniform in size. They 
 are not really good for much in flavour until 
 they are about three and a half inches long, 
 and three-quarters of an inch in diameter. 
 They may be had in July and August, and the 
 best time for pickling them is about the end of 
 August, or the beginning of September. Like 
 other pickles, their excellence depends, in a 
 great measure, on their being kept covered with 
 vinegar. A mixture of French beans and gher- 
 kins makes a nice pickle. 
 
 GHERKINS, PICKLED. ' 
 
 Put the gherkins into a large stone jar, ana 
 cover them with brine strong enough to carry 
 an egg. Place the cover on the jar, and leave 
 it for two or three days, until the gherkins be- 
 gin to turn yellow; then drain them, and pour 
 boiling vinegar over them. Put bay-leaves on 
 the top, keep the jar in a warm place, and heat 
 the vinegar afresh every day, till the gherkins 
 turn as green as you wish. Boil fresh vinegar, 
 and with it one large blade of mace, two ounces 
 of whole pepper, four bay-leaves, and half a 
 dozen small silver onions to each quart. Put 
 the gherkins into wide-mouthed bottles, pour 
 the vinegar over them, first allowing it to cool 
 a little, or it will crack the bottles, and cork 
 securely when cold. Time, from a week to a 
 fortnight. Probable cost. Is. per pint bottle. 
 
 GHERKINS, PICKLED (French method). 
 
 Throw the gherkins into a saucepan of boil- 
 ing water, let them boil one minute, then take 
 them out, and throw them at once into plenty 
 of cold water; change the water once or twice, 
 and when the gherkins are quite cold, spread 
 them on sieves to dry. Put them into a large 
 bowl, and pour over them as much boiling 
 vinegar as will completely cover them. Let 
 them stand in this for twenty-four hours, and 
 repeat the process for three days. The last 
 time, boil in the vinegar one ounce of salt, 
 half an ounce of whole pepper, a few sprigs of 
 tarragon, a large blade of mace, and four bay- 
 leaves, with every quart of liquid. Put the 
 gherkins into the boiling vinegar, let them re- 
 main for two minutes, then place them in wide- 
 mouthed bottles, and pour the vinegar over 
 them. Cork the bottles securely, and put away 
 for use. More vinegar must be added when 
 required. Probable cost. Is. per pint bottle. 
 
 GIBLET PIE. 
 
 Take one set of goose or fowl giblets. If not 
 already cleaned, wash them in warm water 
 several times. Take the gall from the liver, 
 and cut it and the heart into two pieces. Pick 
 the head well, soak it in hot water, and chop 
 off the beak. Skin the feet and the gizzard, and 
 cut the feet with the pinions into two pieces, 
 the neck and gizzard into four each. Put all 
 into a saucepan with cold water, let the con- 
 
 tents just boil, then take them out, drain them, 
 throw away the water, and put them, with fresh 
 water, again into the pan. Add a tea-spoonful 
 of salt, half a tea^spoonful of whole pepper, a, 
 sprig of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and two 
 onions. Simmer gently until done enough. 
 Pour the giblets into a bowl, and let them get 
 cold. Unless this is done the flavour of the 
 giblets will spoil the pie-crust. Lay one pound 
 of steak, cut into pieces about an inch and a 
 half square, at the bottom of the pie-dish. If 
 beef-steak is used, it must be stewed in a sepa- 
 rate saucepan until nearly tender before being 
 put into the pie. With rump-steak this is not 
 necessary. Put the cold giblets among the 
 pieces of steak. Strain as much of the liquid 
 as will nearly cover the meat in the pie, line 
 the edge with a good light crust, place a cover 
 over the whole, brush it with yolk of egg, and 
 ornament it with pastry leaves. Bake in a good 
 oven. Thicken the gravy in which the giblets 
 were stewed with a little flour and butter, or 
 flour mixed with water; brown it, and add to 
 it a glass of port wine, and pour into the pie, 
 through an incision, just before serving. A 
 giblet pie should never be eaten cold. Time, 
 from one to two hours to stew the giblets — ^if 
 the goose or fowl is young, one hour will be 
 sufficient; when the gizzard is tender the gib- 
 lets are done enough ; an hour and a half to 
 stew beef-st«ak; one hour to bake the pie. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 2d. Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 GIBLET PIE (another way). 
 
 Prepare and stew the giblets as in the last 
 recipe. Let them get cold, and put them into 
 a pie-dish, with a chicken, cut into neat joints, 
 and seasoned with pepper, salt, and pounded 
 mace. Cover the whole with a light crust, 
 and bake in a good oven. Before sending the 
 pie to table, mix a small cupful of the gravy in 
 which the giblets were stewed with two table- 
 spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup and a wine- 
 glassful of sherry, and pour it hot into the dish. 
 Time, one hour to bake. Probable cost, 3s. 8d. 
 Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 GIBLET SOUP. 
 
 Take two sets of goose or fowl giblets. Pre- 
 pare them in the same way as for GiBiiET 
 PiB, cutting the gizzard into small pieces 
 about half an inch square, or it will not 
 be tender until the rest is in rags, and put all 
 into a stewpan with a slice of lean ham cut into 
 dice, and a small piece of butter. Fry the gib- 
 lets a few minutes; then add to them two 
 quarts of good stock, an onion stuck with five 
 or six cloves, two or three sprigs of marjoram, 
 thyme, or winter savoury, a tea-spoonful of 
 salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and a small 
 tea-spoonful of bruised celery-seeds tied in a 
 muslin bag. Simmer gently for two hours, then 
 take out the giblets, and put them into a tureen. 
 Strain the soup, and thicken it with one ounce 
 of butter, mixed smoothly over the fire with 
 a table-spoonful of flour until slightly browned, 
 but not burned, and added gradually to 
 the liquor. Let it boil for a quarter of an 
 hour, then return the giblets to it for a few 
 minutes, to get hot, and serve with toasted 
 sippets. The giblets should be tender, but not 
 too much boiled. Before putting them into the 
 
GIB 
 
 250 
 
 GIN 
 
 tureen they should all be cut into small pieces. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 CIBLET SOUP, DUCK'S. 
 
 Very good soup may be made of the giblets 
 of ducks. The same directions may be fol- 
 lowed as we have given for goose giblets, but as 
 ducks are so much smaller, four sets of these 
 must be used, where two sets only of goose 
 giblets would be necessary. 
 
 GIBLET SOUP, GERMAN. 
 
 Put one quart of haricot beans into cold water 
 to soak the day before the soup is wanted, then 
 drain them, boil them until quite tender, and 
 press half of them through a coarse sieve. Stew 
 the giblets, as in the last recipe but one, with' 
 two quarts of stock, and seasoning. When they 
 are tender, remove and cut them into small 
 pieces, strain the soup, and mix it smoothly with 
 tha beans, both mashed and whole ; add the gib- 
 lets, let them get hot once more, and serve. 
 The soup should be as thick as cream. A varia- 
 tion may be made by boiling very smtdl pota- 
 toes instead of beans in the soup until tender, 
 but unbroken. Time, two hours and a half to 
 prepare the soup. Sufficient for six persons. 
 Probable cost, beans, 4d. or 6d. per quart; 
 giblets, 6d. per set. 
 GIBLETS, TO STEW. 
 
 Prepare one set of goose giblets in the same 
 way as for a pie. Cut them into small, con- 
 venient-sized pieces, and put them into a 
 saucepan, with a sprig of marjoram, the same 
 of thyme, two sprigs of parsley, a Spanish 
 onion, stuck with three cloves, a tea-spoonful 
 of pepper, a tea-spoonful and a half of salt, a 
 blade of mace, and a grain of cayenne. Rub 
 the saucepan once with garlic, and add one pint 
 ?.nd a half of stock. Simmer gently until all 
 are tender, and as the pieces of meat become so, 
 remove them until the rest are sufficiently 
 cooked. The Uver and pinions will be done 
 enough first, and the gizzard last. When all 
 the pieces of meat are taken out, thicken the 
 gravy with a little flour and butter, heat the 
 giblets, and serve as hot as possible. A few 
 mushrooms, or a table-spoonful of ketchup, and 
 a dessert-spoonful of lemon- juice, is an im- 
 provement. Time, from one hour and a half 
 to two hours, according to the age of the goose. 
 Probable cost, giblets, from 6d. to Is. per set. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 GIBLETS, TO STEW (another way). 
 
 Prepare the giblets as before, and simmer 
 them in just as much water as will cover them. 
 Melt three ounces of butter in a saucepan ; put 
 into it two large Spanish onions, chopped 
 small. Cover the pan, and let them remain 
 until tender. Add to them gradually the liquor 
 in which the giblets have been stewed, and 
 season rather highly with salt and cayenne. 
 Mix a table-spoonful of flour smoothly with a 
 little water, and add it to the onion sauce. Put 
 in the giblets, and let all boil together for 
 twenty minutes. Time, two hours. Probable 
 cost, giblets, 6d. to Is. per set. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 GIBLETS, WITH APPLES (a German recipe). 
 
 Prepare the giblets as before. Take eight 
 large apples, peel, core, and quarter them, and 
 
 let them boil until they are tender, but un- 
 broken, with two table-spoonfuls of sugar, four 
 table-spoonfuls of water, and the thinly-peeled 
 rind of a lemon. Put a piece of butter, about 
 the size of an egg, into a saucepan, mix with 
 it, very smoothly, a table-spoonful of flour, and 
 stir it over the fire until slightly browned. Add 
 three table-spbonfuls of the apple-juice, and 
 three table-spoonfuls of the liquid in which the 
 giblets were stewed. Let this boil, then add 
 it to the rest of the giblet gravy. Wash two 
 table-spoonfuls of dried currants, and strew 
 them over the giblete. Heat all together, 
 colour rather darkly with a few drops of brown- 
 ing (see Bbowning), and arrange on a hot dish, 
 with the giblets in the centre, the pieces of 
 apple round, and the gravy, with the currants, 
 poured over all. Time, about two hours. Prob- 
 able cost, giblets, 6d. to Is. per set ; apples, 
 8d. per dozen. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 GINGER. 
 
 This well-known spice is the creeping root of 
 a tropical plant. Most of that used in Britain 
 is imported from the East and West Indies. It 
 is of use, not only in domestic economy, as a 
 condiment, but in medicine, as a stimulant and 
 carminative. As a spice, ginger is best suited 
 for persons of relaxed habit. Two kinds are 
 met with, the dark-coated and the pale-peeled. 
 Of these, the latter is the best. 
 GINGER AND BREAD PUDDING. 
 
 Pour half a pint of boiling milk over half a 
 pint of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and let the 
 latter soak for an hour. Then mix with them 
 three table-spoonfuls of finely-sifted sugar, three 
 well-beaten eggs, a dessert-spoonful of ginger 
 syrup (see Gingbe Syrup) and four ounces of 
 preserved ginger, cut into small pieces. Beat 
 all thoroughly with a fork, pour into a, well- 
 oiled mould, steam, and, when done, turn out 
 with care. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for 
 four persons. Time, one hour and a half to 
 steam. 
 
 GINGER-BEER. 
 
 Put the thinly-peeled rind of four lemons into 
 a large earthen pan with the strained juice, 
 two ounces of bruised ginger, two and a half 
 pounds of loaf sugar, and half an ounce of 
 cream of tartar. Pour over these ingredients 
 two and a half gallons of boiling water, and, 
 when lukewarm, add two table-spoonfuls of 
 fresh brewer's yeast. Stir the liquid, and leave 
 it to ferment until the next day. Skim the 
 yeast from the top, pour the beer carefully 
 from the sediment, and bottle for use. The 
 corks should be perfectly sound, dipped into 
 boiling water just before being used, and then 
 securely wired down. The ginger-beer will be 
 ready for use in two days. Probable cost. 
 Is. lOd. Sufficient for three dozen and a half 
 ginger-beer bottles. 
 
 GINGER BISCUITS. 
 
 Rub four ounces of fresh butter into half a 
 pound of flour, and add three table-spoonfuls 
 of sugar, half an ounce of ground ginger, and 
 one egg beaten up with a little milk to a smooth 
 paste, , Make up into small round biscuits, and 
 bake on buttered paper for eight or ten min- 
 utes ; leave a little distance between each cake. 
 
GIN 
 
 251 
 
 GIN 
 
 Probable cost, 8d. for this quantity. Sufficient 
 for about two dozen biscuits. 
 GINGERBREAD (i la Soyer). 
 
 Mix lialf a pint of treacle and about one 
 ounce of powdered ginger (more or less, accord- 
 in": to taste) with one pound of flour. Stir well 
 together, to form a stiff dough, roll it out thin, 
 cut it into small rounds with a pastry-cutter, 
 and bake, on a buttered tin, in a good oven for 
 five or six minutes till crisp. A small lump of 
 butter may be rubbed in if desired. Probable 
 cost, 6d. per pound. Sufficient for two dozen 
 cakes. Keep closely covered in a tin box. 
 These cakes are good for assisting digestion. 
 GINGERBREAD, ALMOND. 
 
 Mix one ounce of ground ginger with a 
 quarter of a pound of ground rice, and three- 
 quarters of a pound of best flour. Put into a 
 jar one pound of treacle, half a pound of sugar, 
 half a pound of fresh butter, the thinly-peeled 
 rind of two lemons, cut into thin slices, and six 
 ounces of sweet almonds, with four or five bitter 
 ones, pounded in a mortar, with a few drops of 
 water, to prevent oiling. Place the jar near the 
 fire, and when the butter is melted, pour all into 
 the flour, etc. Beat till quite light, and bake in 
 a quick oven, on a buttered tin for thirty min- 
 utes, if made in small cakes. Probable cost 
 Is. 8d. for this quantity. 
 
 GINGERBREAD, AMERICAN. 
 
 Mix well together a pound of sifted sugar, 
 two ounces of ground ginger, half a nutmeg, 
 and a little grated lemon-rind, three pounds and 
 a half of flour, a pound of chopped raisins, and 
 a pound of currants, an ounce of carbonate of 
 soda, and two ounces of chopped candied peel. 
 Warm a pound of treacle; stir into it three- 
 quarters of a pound of butter, and six eggs. 
 Beat the whole, until thoroughly mixed, with 
 a cupful of milk. Pour it into a well-oiled dish, 
 or shallow tin,, and bake in a slow oven for two 
 hours. Probable cost. Is. 6d. per pound. 
 
 GINGERBREAD, COCOA-NUT. 
 
 Proceed in the same way as directed 
 for Almond Gingerbread (see Gingebbeead, 
 Almond), substituting rasped cocoa-nut for 
 pounded almonds. 
 GINGERBREAD, ENGLISH. 
 
 Mix together a pound and a half of flour, 
 half a pound of honey, half a pound of treacle, 
 two ounces of ground ginger, two ounces of 
 ground allspice, and one ounce of soda. Work 
 them into an elastic paste ; put this into a 
 square tin mould capable of holding it to the 
 thickness of two inches. Allow it to stand in 
 moderate warmth for an hour, brush it over 
 with white of egg, bake in a moderate oven. 
 When done, and cold, cut it into slices as 
 occasion requires. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 GINGERBREAD, FANNY'S. 
 
 Put a quarter of a, pound of butter into a 
 bowl with half a pound of treacle, and place 
 the jar near the fire till the butter is melted. 
 Mix well, adding one table-spoonful of oatmeal, 
 half an ounce of sifted ginger, the rind of a 
 lemon, cut into thin slices, and as much flour 
 as will make a stiff firm batter. Pour into a 
 well-buttered mould, and bake in a good oven. 
 
 Time, from thirty to forty minutes. Probable 
 cost, 8d. Sufficient for a pint mould. 
 GINGERBREAD FINGERS, AMERICAN. 
 
 Warm half a pound of best treacle. Stir into 
 it a piece of butter the size of an egg, and four 
 table-spoonfuls of sifted siigar. T^e a little 
 powdered allspice, a heaped tea-spoonful of 
 ground ginger, the rind of a lemon chopped 
 fine, and a pound of the best flour. Mix all 
 the dry ingredients together, and stir the 
 treacle and butter into them. Last of all, dis- 
 solve an ounce of carbonate of soda in a table- 
 spoonful of warm cream, and put it with the 
 rest. Work all well together for some time. 
 Roll the mixture out to the thickness of half 
 an inch. Divide it into " fingers," and put at 
 once on well-oiled tins, in a moderate oven. 
 Store the fingers in a dry place, not exposed to 
 the air, and they will be the better for a month's 
 keeping. Time to bake, an hour or more. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. per pound. 
 GINGERBREAD, FLEMISH. 
 
 Warm one pound of treacle in a bowl before 
 the fire, and stir into it six ounces of butter. 
 When dissolved, beat in as much fiour, with 
 two table-spoonfuls, of oatmeal and half an 
 ounce of powdered ginger, as will form a stiff 
 firm batter. Beat it till smooth, and add two 
 ounces of candied lemon sliced as thin as possi- 
 ble. Butter some moulds, and bake in a quick 
 oven for nearly an hour. Probable cost. Is. 2d. 
 GINGERBREAD, FRENCH. 
 
 (iSse Gateau d'bpicb.) 
 
 GINGERBREAD, GERMAN. 
 
 Melt one pound of honey in a saucepan, and 
 when it is quite hot, mix with it. six ounces of 
 moist sugar, an ounce of powdered cinnamon, 
 two ounces of candied lemon, cut into thin 
 slices, four ounces of sweet almonds, blanched 
 and sliced, and sufficient fiour to make it into 
 a stiff paste. Roll the paste out two or three 
 times, so as to have it quite .smooth and stiff ; 
 make it into cakes of any shape or size, about 
 a quarter of an inch in thickness, and bake on 
 buttered tins in a moderate oven lor half an 
 hour or more. Probable cost, Is. 8d. for this 
 quantity. 
 GINGERBREAD, HONEYCOMB. 
 
 Put four ounces of fresh butter into a jar, 
 near the fire, with half a pound of treacle, and 
 half a pound of moist sugar. Mix half a pound 
 of flour with one table-spoonful of ground 
 ginger, the finely-chopped rind and juice of 
 half a large lemon, and one tea-spoonful of 
 powdered cinnamon. When the butter is 
 melted, mix it with the treacle, etc., into the 
 flour, and beat all together for some minutes. 
 Spread the mixture very thinly upon buttered 
 baking-tine, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 Watch it particularly, and as soon as the 
 gingerbread is done enough, take it out, cut 
 it into squares, and curl each square round the 
 finger. Keep closely covered in a tin box. 
 This gingerbread will keep three or four weeks, 
 but is best when newly made. When it loses 
 its crispness, it should be put into the oven for 
 two or three minutes before being used. Time, 
 ten minutes to bake. Probable cost, lOd. for 
 this quantity. 
 
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 252 
 
 GIN 
 
 GINGERBREAD, HUNTERS'. 
 
 Beat three ounces of butter to a cream; add 
 one pound and a half of flour, three ounces of 
 moist and one ounce of sifted sugar, one 
 ounce of candied peel, cut into thin strips, two 
 or three drops of essence of lemon, and mix in 
 one pound of treacle, slightly warmed, to make 
 a smooth, firm paste. Eoll out on a floured 
 pastry-board, cut it into strips, about three 
 inches long and one broad, and bake on a but- 
 tered tin, in a slow oven. Store in a closely- 
 covered tin box. Time to bake, half an hour. 
 Probable cost. Is. 
 
 GINGERBREAD, IMPERIAL. 
 
 Beat three ounces of butter to a cream. Mix 
 with it six ounces of flour, two ounces of sugar, 
 a dessert-spoonful of caraway-seeds, and a 
 dessert-spoonful of powdered ginger. Stir 
 three ounces of treacle into half a pint of new 
 milk, make the whole into a paste, and bake 
 on buttered tins in round cakes or fingers. Stick 
 on the cakes a little candied peel, cut into 
 strips. Time, about half an hour to bake. 
 Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 GINGERBREAD, INDIAN. 
 
 (See Indian Gingeebeead.) 
 
 GINGERBREAD LEEK (excellent). 
 
 Mix thoroughly, one ounce and a half of 
 ginger in one pound and a half of flour; add 
 one pound and a quarter of sugar, and two 
 ounces of candied peel, cut very fine. Melt 
 together half a pound of butter, and a quarter 
 of a pound of the best treacle. Stir these into 
 the flour, etc., flavour with three drops of 
 essence of lemon, or more, if liked, and make 
 the mixture into a smooth, flrm paste, with 
 three eggB, well beaten. Eoll out on a floured 
 board, and cut the paste into flngers. Bake iil 
 a good oven for ten minutes. Store in a 
 closely-covered tin box. Probable cost, 2s. for 
 this quantity. 
 
 GINGERBREAD LOAF (good). 
 
 Put six ounces of butter into a jar near the 
 fire, with one pound of the best treacle. Let 
 the butter melt, then add two ounces of candied 
 lemon, cut into narrow strips, half an ounce of 
 powdered ginger, half an ounce of caraway- 
 seeds, five eggs, well beaten, and as much flour 
 as will make a stiff batter. Beat it well for 
 some minutes, till it is quite smooth and light, 
 put it into a well-buttered tin, about two inches 
 deep, and bake in a slow oven three-quarters 
 of an hour. When baked, let the loaf remain 
 a little while in the tin before turning out. 
 Probable cost. Is. 8d. 
 
 GINGERBREAD LOAF (plain). 
 
 Put two pounds of treacle into a jar near the 
 flre, with two ounces of butter, a quarter of an 
 ounce of carbonate of soda, previously dis- 
 solved in a very little milk, and strained, and 
 four ounces of moist sugar. Mix an ounce of 
 powdered ginger, and one small nutmeg 
 grated, with about three pounds of flour. 
 When the butter is melted, stir the treacle 
 into the flcur, and water to moisten it, and 
 bake in a well-buttered, shallow tin, in a slow 
 oven, for one hour and a half. Probable cost. 
 Is. 2d. 
 
 GINGERBREAD, NUREMBURG. 
 
 Beat the whites and yolks of eight eggs to- 
 gether with one pound of finely-sifted sugar for 
 half an hour. Mix with this the peel of a 
 lemon cut very thin and minced fine, and a 
 table-spoonful of ground spices in the propor- 
 tion of two parts of cinnamon and one part 
 each of cloves and cardamoms, also a "table- 
 spoonful of finely-cut candied orange-peel, half 
 a pound of blanched and roasted almonds sliced 
 small, and one pound of fine dry flour. Mix 
 all thoroughly together, and form into cakes 
 about eight inches long by four inches wide 
 and two inches thick; spread them on wafer 
 paper, and bake in a quick oven. Probable 
 cost, 2s. 
 
 GINGERBREAD NUTS. 
 
 It is well to make the paste for these nuts an 
 hour or two before baking them, and put it in 
 a cool place. Bub three ounces of butter into 
 one pound of flour ; add the finely-chopped rind 
 and jui;e of half a lemon, and a dessert-spoon- 
 ful of ground ginger. Put a table-spoonful of 
 honey into a quarter of a pound of treacle. 
 Let them melt over the fire for a few minutes, 
 stirring them well together, then mix them 
 into the other ingredients. Eoll the paste on a 
 floured board to the thickness of a quarter of 
 an inch. Stamp it into small round cakes, and 
 bake on tins in a good oven till crisp. Prob- 
 able cost, 6d. 
 
 GINGERBREAD, ORANGE. 
 
 Chop .half a pound of candied orange peel 
 very finely, and mix it with one ounce of 
 ground ginger, one nutmeg, grated, three- 
 quarters of a pound of moist sugar, and two 
 pounds and a quarter of flour. Melt three- 
 quarters of a pound of butter in a pound and 
 three-quarters of treacle; stir this well into the 
 rest, and let all stand in a cool place for two 
 or three hours. Eoll the paste out on a floured 
 board to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, 
 cut it into fingers, and bake on a buttered tin, 
 leaving a little space between each finger. 
 Beat the yolk of an egg with a little milk, and 
 brush the gingerbread over with it both before 
 and after putting it into the oven. Time to 
 bake, fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 for this quantity. 
 
 GINGERBREAD PARKIN. 
 
 Eub half a pound of butter and half i pound 
 of fresh lard into four pounds of oatmeal, or 
 flour and oatmeal mixed. Add half a pound of 
 brown sugar and an ounce of ground ginger. 
 Mix three pounds and a half of treacle with a 
 cupful of new milk ; stir these into the oatmeal, 
 etc., to make a stiff paste, bake in a moderate 
 oven, either in oiled tins or dripping-tins, till 
 brightly browned, i.e. about twenty minutes if 
 baked in patty-pans, and one hour and a half 
 in large dishes. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 GINGERBREAD, POWDER FOR MAKING. 
 
 Pound thoroughly in a mortar two ounces of 
 coriander-seed, two ounces of caraway-seed, 
 two ounces of ground ginger, half an ounce of 
 grated nutmeg, half an ounce of cloves, three- 
 quarters of an ounce of fennel-seed, and three- 
 ciuarters of an ounce of aniseed. ' Keep the 
 powder in a bottle, closely corked. To make 
 
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 253 
 
 GIN 
 
 gingerbread, dissolve two pounds of sugar in a 
 pint of water, and make up into a paste with a 
 quartern of flour and an ounce of the powder. 
 The gingerbread may be baked either in a 
 mould or in small tins. Time to prepare, half 
 an hour. 
 
 GINGERBREAD PUDDING. 
 
 Grate six ounces of stale bread very finely. 
 Mix it with three ounces of flour and six 
 ounces of finely-shredded beef suet. Add a tea- 
 spoonful of powdered ginger, a tea-spoonful of 
 baking-powder, and two or three drops of 
 almond or lemon flavouring. Make up into a 
 smooth paste with half a pound of treacle, 
 slightly warmed. Pour into a buttered mould, 
 and boil for two hours. Probable cost, 7d. 
 Suflicient for four persons. 
 GINGERBREAD SPONGE. 
 
 Put one pound of flour into a bowl; melt 
 four ounces of dripping, and add to the flour, 
 along with half a pound of treacle and one gill 
 of milk; mix in four ounces of moist sugar, a 
 tea-spoonful of ground ginger, half a tea- 
 spoonful of mixed spice, and the yolk of an egg. 
 Beat all for a few minutes, then put in the 
 white of the egg, beaten, and a tea-spoonful of 
 baking-powder, and bake in a shallow buttered 
 tin in a moderate oven, gradually lessening the 
 heat towards the end. It will take about an 
 hour to bake. Probable cost, lOd. 
 
 GINGERBREAD SUGAR. 
 
 Whisk well two fresh eggs, and add gradu- 
 ally half a pound of sifted loaf sugar, half an 
 ounce of ground ginger, and half a pound of 
 fine flour. A little water may be added if the 
 paste is too stiff. Make into round cakes and 
 bake for fifteen minutes on a buttered tin. 
 Probable cost, 6d. for this quantity. 
 GINGERBREAD, SWISS. 
 
 Take one and a half pounds of flour, six 
 ounces of skinned almonds, one pound of warm 
 honey, one ounce of ground coriander-seeds, 
 one ounce of ground ginger, half an ounce of 
 ground cinnamon, half an ounce of ground 
 cloves, half a gill of orange-flower water, and 
 one ounce of carbonate of soda. Work all 
 these (except the almonds) into an elastic 
 paste ; allow it to rest till the next day, 
 covered over in a cold place. Then roll it out, 
 place the whole almonds in rows upon the 
 paste, roll it up, and bake it in a long-shaped 
 buttered tin mould. Probable cost, 2s. 
 GINGERBREAD, THICK. 
 
 Mix half an ounce of carbonate of soda, per- 
 fectly free from lumps, with two pounds of 
 flour; add six ounces of brown sugar, two 
 ounces of powdered ginger, and half an ounce 
 of ground caraway-seed. Melt half a pound 
 of fresh butter in two pounds of. treacle. Mix 
 this gradually with the flour — ^it must not be 
 hot, or the gingerbread will be heavy — and 
 add, last of all, three well-beaten eggs. Half 
 fill shallow tins, well buttered, with the mix- 
 ture, and bake in a moderate oven. Brush the 
 gingerbread over with the yolk of an egg, mixed 
 with a little milk, before it is put into the oven, 
 and again two or three minutes before it is 
 taken out. Time to bake, an hour and a half. 
 Probable cost, 2s. for this quantity. 
 
 GINGERBREAD, WHITE. 
 
 Bub three ounces of fresh butter into half a 
 pound of flour; add a i^inch of salt, four table- 
 spoonfuls of sifted loaf sugar, the finely- 
 chopped rind of a small lemon, half a nutmeg, 
 grated, and as much carbonate of soda as will 
 lie on a sixpence, dissolved in half a cupful of 
 lukewarm milk. Mix all together to a smooth, 
 firm batter, roll it out on a floured board, 
 stamp it into rounds with the top of a wine- 
 glass, and bake immediately in a moderate 
 oven. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. 
 Probable cost, 6d. for this quantity. , 
 
 GINGERBREAD WITHOUT BUTTER. 
 
 Cut into very thin slices four ounces of can- 
 died lemon, orange, and citron. Mix them 
 with an ounce of ground ginger, half an ounce 
 of coriander-seed, and half an ounce of cara- 
 way-seed. Stir these into one pound of treacle, 
 and add as much flour as will make a smooth 
 paste. Pour into an oven-tin, and bake in a 
 brisk oven. This gingerbread will keep some 
 time, if kept closely covered in tin boxes. 
 Time, ten or fifteen minutes to bake. Probable 
 cost. Is. 
 
 GINGER CAKES. 
 
 Take one pound of fiour, three-quarters of a 
 pound of butter, three-quarters of a pound of 
 sifted sugar, two ounces of ground ginger, and 
 eight yolks of eggs. Mix all together, and 
 work into a compact mass on the pastry board. 
 Separate it into four parts ; roll these out to the 
 thickness of the sixth part of an inch, one after 
 another, and stamp out as many cakes as the 
 paste will produce. Place them upon a slightly 
 buttered baking-dish, and put into the oven. 
 When about half done, pass a paste-brush 
 dipped in white of egg over them, dredge some 
 sugar over their surface, and finish baking 
 the cakes to a light brown colour. Probable 
 cost, 2s. 
 
 GINGER CANDY. 
 
 Make a thin syrup, by boiling one pound of 
 refined loaf sugar with a cupful of water. 
 Flavour it with a tea-spoonful of powdered 
 ginger-root, and colour with a little saffron. 
 As the syrup boils, keep moving it against the 
 side of the pan, and when it turns white it is 
 done enough. Pour it out as quickly as pos- 
 sible, or it will turn to powder. The candy 
 may be put upon sheets of thick writing- 
 paper, which has been laid upon cold dishes. 
 Time, from ten to fifteen minutes. Probable 
 cost, 6d. 
 
 GINGER CORDIAL. 
 
 Pick two pounds of white or black currants. 
 Bruise them slightly, and mix with them one 
 ounce and a half of ground ginger. Pour over 
 them one quart of good whisky or brandy, and 
 let them stand for two days. Strain off the 
 liquid, add one pound of loaf sugar, boiled to a 
 syrup, with a small tea-cupful of water. Bot- 
 tle, and cork closely for uje. Probable cost. 
 Is. 3d., exclusive of the spirit. Sufficient for 
 three pints of cordial. 
 
 GINGER CREAM. 
 
 Cut four ounces of preserved ginger into thin 
 slices. Put the yolks of three fresh eggs into a 
 
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 2Si 
 
 GIN 
 
 saucepan, with a pint of milk and two table- 
 spoonfuls of the syrup. Let it boil gently, 
 stirring all the time, till the cream is thick and 
 smooth. Strain it into a basin, add one gill of 
 cream and three-quarters of an ounce of gela- 
 tine dissolved in a little milk- Whisk it until 
 it thickens, pour it into a damped mould, and 
 put in a cool place until set. Time, four 
 hours or more to set the cream. Probable cost, 
 3s. 2d., with cream at Is. 6d. per pint. Suf- 
 ficient for two pints and a half of cream. 
 
 GINGER CREAM ICE. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of preserved gin- 
 ger, cut this into very thin slices (using a silver 
 knife if it is at hand), put them into a saucepan 
 with a pint of cream — or a pint of milk boiled 
 and mixed with the yolks of six eggs — half a 
 pound of sugar, and two table-spoonfuls of the 
 ginger syrup. Stir the mixture over the fire 
 until it thickens a little, then strain through a 
 sieve. Pour into a mould, and when the cream 
 is cold, freeze in the ordinary way. Keep in 
 ice till wanted. Probable cost, 2s. 2d. for this 
 quantity if made with cream; Is. 4d. if made 
 with milk and eggs. Sufficient for a little less 
 than a quart of ice. 
 
 GINGER CUP CAKE. 
 
 Mix two cupfuls of sifted sugar with two cup- 
 fuls of butter, melted, but not oiled. Add three 
 well-beaten eggs, a cupful of treacle, four 
 heaped cupfuls of flour, a heaped table-spoon- 
 ful of ground ginger, a tea-spoonful of carbon- 
 ate of soda, and a cupful of new milk. When 
 thoroughly and smoothly mixed, pour into a 
 buttered mould, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 If preferred, the mixture may be baked in 
 patty-pans. Time to bake, a quarter of an 
 hour in small pans, an hour and a half in a 
 mould. Probable cost. Is. 8d. for this quan- 
 tity. Sufficient for a three-pint mould. 
 
 GINGER DROPS. 
 
 Mix one ounce of ground ginger with one 
 pound of sifted sugar, and put it into a 
 saucepan with a cupful of water; add two 
 ounces of freshly-candied orange, pounded in 
 a mortar, with a little sugar. Boil gently, 
 stirring all the time, until the syrup snaps when 
 put into cold water. Dip the pan into cold 
 water for a minute, then pour the mixture out, 
 in drops, on writing paper, or on an oiled slab. 
 A little butter may be thrown in if the syrup 
 boils too quickly; or a little lemon-juice, or 
 any other acid, if it is in danger of grain- 
 ing. Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable 
 cost, 8d. 
 
 GINGER EGG FLIP, 
 
 Beat up four eggs with half a pint of 
 good mild ale, add half an ounce of grated 
 ginger. Boil one and a half pints of mild ale, 
 and add half a pound of crushed brown sugar- 
 candy; stir, and add it gradually to the 
 eggs, etc., stirring all the time. Beat hard 
 for a few minutes, and serve hot. Probable 
 cost. Is. 
 
 GINGER, ESSENCE OF. 
 
 Take some whole ginger, and gri^d it to 
 
 powder just before using it, as the flavour 
 
 quickly evaporates. Put three ounces of 
 
 powdered ginger and two ounces of freshly-cut 
 lemon-rind into a quart of brandy, or spirits of 
 wine. Let the mixture infuse a fortnight, 
 shaking it every day. Then strain, and bottle 
 for use. This preparation is warming and in- 
 vigorating, and, if mix6d with a little boiling 
 water and sugar, is an excellent cure for 
 flatulency. Probable cost, about 5d., exclu- 
 sive of the spirit. Sufficient for one quart of 
 essence. 
 
 GINGERETTE. 
 
 Pick and bruise one pound of either white or 
 black currants, fully ripe, and put them, with 
 the thinly-peeled rind of a lemon, into one 
 pint of unsweetened gin. Cork closely, and 
 leave for three days, then strain. Add half an 
 ounce of freshly-ground ginger, and one pound 
 of loaf sugar. Leave the gingerette a week 
 longer, stir it every day, strain once more, and 
 bottle for use. Probable cost, lOd,, exclusive 
 of the spirit. Sufficient for one quart. 
 
 GINGER PANCAKES. 
 
 Mix the yolks of three eggs, and the white of 
 one egg, very smoothly, with four table-spoon- 
 fuls of flour. Add a pinch of salt, and a tea- 
 spoonful of freshly-grated ginger. When quite 
 smooth, stir in a pint of new milk. Just be- 
 fore cooking, put in two table-spoonfuls of 
 brandy. Fry the pancakes in the usual way 
 (see Pancakes). Send lemon-juice and sifted 
 sugar to table with them. The batter for pan- 
 cakes is better made an hour or two before it is 
 wanted. Time, ten minutes to fry. Probable 
 cost, 6d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient 
 for four persons. 
 
 GINGER PRESERVED. 
 
 Preserved ginger is sent to us from China, 
 India, and the West Indies, and is made by 
 boiling the ginger in syrup when green. It is 
 a favourite dish for dessert, and should be 
 bright and clear. If dark and stringy, it 
 is not good. Agreeable imitations may be 
 made either from rhubarb, lettuce stalks, or 
 vegetable marrow (see the two following 
 recipes). 
 
 GINGER, PRESERVED, IMITATION OF. 
 
 Use either garden rhubarb or the stalks of 
 lettuce, going to seed. Strip off the stringy 
 part, and cut the stalks into pieces about two 
 inches long. Wash them well, drain, and put 
 them into a saucepan with five pints of water, 
 one pound of sugar, and two table-spoonfuls of 
 fieshly-ground ginger. Boil slowly for twenty 
 minutes, and set the preparation aside for two 
 days, boil then half an hour, and repeat the 
 process a third time. Drain the stalks. Make 
 a thick syrup by boiling together one cupful of 
 water, one pound of loaf sugar, and one ounce 
 and a half of, ginger for every pound of stalks. 
 Pour the syrup boiling hot upon the stalks, and, 
 when cold, put the preserve into jars, and cover 
 closely. It will be ready for use in a fortnight. 
 Probable cost, 7d. per pound. 
 
 GINGER, PRESERVED, IMITATION OF (another 
 way). 
 Take medium-sized vegetable-marrows; re- 
 move the peel and seeds, and cut the marrow 
 into small lumps about two inches long. Weigh 
 
255 
 
 GIN 
 
 tkem, and pour over them as much syrup as 
 will cover them; the syrup being made by 
 pouring one pint of boiling water over half a 
 pound of moist sugar. Cover the bowl which 
 contains the vegetable-marrows, to keep out the 
 dust, and put it on one side for two days. At 
 the end of that time, drain the pieces of mar- 
 row, and lay them in a saucepan, with one 
 pound of loaf sugar and a cupful of water to 
 every pound of marrow. Put into a muslin bag 
 two ounces of freshly-ground ginger and half a 
 tea-spoonful of cayenne, and allow this quan- 
 tity, with the rind and juice of three lemons, 
 to every four pounds of marrow. Simmer 
 gently, and, when clear, add a glass of gin. 
 Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient, one 
 pound of marrow will make about one pound of 
 preserve. — 
 
 GINGER PUDDING. 
 
 Shred a quarter of a pound of fresh beef suet 
 very finely. Add a pinch of salt, half a pound 
 of flour, four ounces of moist sugar, and a des- 
 sert-spoonful of powdered ginger. Mix all 
 these ingredients thoroughly, and put them d'ry 
 into a well-buttered mould, which they will fill. 
 Boil for three hours. Turn out, and serve with 
 wine sauce. Probable' cost, 5d. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. * 
 
 GINGER PUDDING (another way). 
 
 Chop very small three ounces of preserved 
 ginger, and squeeze over it a tea-spoonful of 
 lemon-juice. Put a breakfast-cupful of milk into 
 a saucepan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, 
 and a quarter of a pound of sugar. Let it boil, 
 then draw it to the side, and mix with it, very 
 smoothly, six ounces of flour. Put it on the 
 fire again, and beat it very smoothly, until it 
 comes up with the spoon in a lump, leaving the 
 sides of the saucepan quite clear. Take it off, 
 mix with it the chopped ginger, the yolks of 
 four eggs whisked thoroughly, and the syrup 
 of the ginger. Just before cooking, add the 
 whites of the eggs, beaten to a firm froth. Put 
 the pudding into a well-buttered mould, and 
 steam it for one hour. Turn out, and serve 
 with wine sauce. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. This pudding is 
 very good baked. 
 
 GINGER PUFFS. 
 
 Mix two eggs thoroughly, and beat them 
 smoothly with four ounces of fine flour. Add a 
 pinch of salt, a quarter of a small nutmeg 
 grated, half a tea-spoonful of freshly-ground 
 ginger, a dessert-spoonful of sifted loaf sugar, 
 three table-spoonfuls of sherry, and a tea-spoon- 
 ful of lemon-juice. Half fill some well-buttered 
 cups with the mixture, and bake in a brisk oven. 
 Turn out before serving, and send wine sauce 
 to table with them. Time, twenty minutes to 
 bake. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the wine. 
 Sufficient for three or four puffs. . 
 
 GINGER SAUCE. 
 
 Grate an inch and a half of whole ginger, and 
 mix it with four table-spoonfuls of finely-sifted 
 loaf sugar. Put these into a saucepan, with a 
 breakfast-cupful of water and an inch of lemon- 
 rind. Simmer gently for ten minutes, then add 
 the juice of a lemon and a glass of white wine 
 or brandy. Strain' before serving. Probable 
 
 cost, -Sd., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for 
 one pint of sauce. 
 
 GINGER SNAPS. 
 
 Mix half a pound of fiour with two table- 
 spoonfuls of moist sugar. Add a pinch of salt, 
 a dessert-spoonful of ground ginger, and a 
 pinch of cayenne. Make into a paste with four 
 ounces of treacle and a table-spoonful of milk. 
 Bake in a moderate oven, on a buttered tin, in 
 small round cakes, till crisp, which will take 
 from fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable 
 cost, 4d. 
 
 GINGER SOUFFLE PUDDING. 
 
 Mix smoothly over the fire one ounce of butter 
 and one ounce of flour. Add the well-beaten 
 yolks of two eggs and a gill of milk. Beat to 
 a smooth batter ; pour the mixture into a basin, 
 and stir into it one ounce of preserved ginger, 
 cut into thin slices, with a tea-spoonful of 
 ginger syrup. Just before cooking, add the 
 whites of the eggs, beaten to a firm froth. 
 Butter a mould rather thickly. Ornament the 
 inside in any pretty fanciful way with lemon, 
 citron, or dried fruit, cut into shapes; pour in 
 the batter, place a piece of buttered paper over 
 the top, and steam gently, until it feels firm in 
 the centre. Turn out, and serve with ginger 
 sauce (see Ginueb Sauce). Probable cost, 6d. 
 Sufficient for three persons. 
 GINGER SYRUP. 
 
 Break three-quarters of a pound of ginger- 
 root into small pieces. Boil it gently with four 
 quarts of water, and the thin rind of a lemon, 
 until the water is reduced one-half. Strain, 
 and boil again with five pounds of loaf sugar; 
 Remove the scum carefully till no more rises; 
 and when the syrup is cold, bottle it for use. 
 Time, five hours. Probable cost, 2s. 8d. Suf- 
 ficient for three quarts of syrup. 
 
 GINGER WATER ICE. 
 
 Make, a syrup by boiling .together half a 
 pound of refined sugar with half a pint of water 
 and the thin rind of a large lemon, for ten 
 minutes. Strain, and add two table-spoonfuls 
 of lemon-juice and a quarter of a pound of pre- 
 served ginger — ^half of which has been well 
 pounded in a mortar, and half cut into thin 
 slices. Mix thoroughly, pour into a mould, and 
 freeze. Probable cost, about lOd. Sufficient 
 for rather more than a pint of ice. 
 GINGER WINE. 
 
 Boil, in a perfectly clean copper, six gallons 
 of water, eighteen pounds of loaf sugar, ■ the 
 thin rinds of seven lemons and two Seville 
 oranges, half a pound of unbleached ginger, 
 bruised, and a quarter of a pound of raisins. 
 Boil for an hour, skim carefully, and pour off 
 into a large vat until the next day. The pre- 
 paration must not be left in the copper. Strain, 
 add the juice of the lemons and oranges, an 
 ounce of isinglass, and two table-spoonfuls of 
 thick fresh yeast. Put the ginger wine into a 
 cask, stir it each day until fermentation 
 ceases, which will be in two or three days. 
 Bung it up, and leave it for six weeks. Strain 
 it into another cask, and in four weeks it will 
 be ready for bottling. A quart of brandy may 
 be added, or not. Sufficient for a nine-gallon 
 cask. Probable cost. Is. 2d. per gallon. A 
 
GIN 
 
 256 
 
 GLA 
 
 very superior wine may be made by substitut- 
 ing cider for water. 
 GINGER WINE (a quick way of making). 
 
 The best time for making ginger wine is the 
 spring or autumn. Boil together seven gallons 
 of water, nineteen pounds of sugar, and nine 
 ounces of best Jamaica ginger, bruised, for half 
 an hour. Remove the scum carefully as it 
 rises, and leave the liquid until the next day. 
 Chop very small nine pounds of raisins — two- 
 thirds of which should be Malaga, and one- 
 third muscatel. Put these into a twelve- 
 gallon cask, with a gallon and a half of good 
 whiskey, or any other spirit, and four lemons, 
 cut into slices. Let these ingredients stand 
 until next day ; then put with them the cleared 
 ginger liquid, being careful to leave any sedi- 
 ment behind, and to strain it. As there is no 
 fermentation, the cask may be bunged imme- 
 diately. The wine will be ready for fining, by 
 mixing with it one ounce of dissolved isinglass, 
 in a fortnight. In another fortnight it may be 
 bottled. Probable cost, lOd. per gallon, exclu- 
 sive of the spirit. 
 
 GIN PUNCH. 
 
 Peel very thinly the rind of a large lemon, 
 and put it, with a table-spoonful of the juice, 
 into a bowl. Pour over it two table-spoonfuls of 
 pounded loaf sugar, and one pint of fresh 
 spring water. Let it stand for half an hour. 
 Then add halt a pint of gin, a wine-glassful of 
 maraschino, and two table-spoonfuls of pounded 
 ice. Just before serving, add two bottles of 
 soda-water. Time, about three-quarters of an 
 hour to prepare. Sufficient for two quarts of 
 punch. 
 GIN SAUCE. 
 
 Put four lumps of sugar and a quarter of a 
 pint of water into a small saucepan, and let 
 them boil together for five minutes. Mix half 
 a tea-spoonful of arrowroot with the juice of 
 half a lemon, and add this, along with a quarter 
 of a pint of gin, to the sugar and water. Bring 
 again to the boil, simmer for two or three min- 
 utes until slightly thickened; strain into a 
 very hot sauce-boat, and serve. Probable 
 cost, 9d. 
 GIN SLING (an American drink). 
 
 Put half a small lemon, cut into thin slices, 
 into a large tumbler, with a dessert-spoonful of 
 sifted loaf sugar. Fill the glass with ice, finely 
 pounded, and add a wine-glassful of the best 
 gin. Drink through a, straw. 
 
 GIPSY CAKE (this is generally known as Tipsy Cake). 
 Take a good stale spongecake, and in choos- 
 ing the size, consider the glass dish in which it 
 is to be served. Prick it through in several 
 places with a knitting-needle or skewer, and 
 soak it in sweet wine and brandy. As the 
 liquid runs into the dish, pour it over again. 
 Blanch some sweet almonds. Cut them length- 
 ways into spikes, and stick these into the cake. 
 Pour a good custard into the dish, and serve as 
 soon, as possible. Time, half an hour to soak 
 the cake. (See also Tcpst Cake.) 
 
 GIRDLE CAKE. 
 
 Rub three ounces of fresh butter into one 
 pound of flour; add a pinch of salt, and as 
 
 much butter-milk or cream as will make a stiff 
 paste. Roll the paste out thin, and make into 
 small round cakes. Bake on a girdle over the 
 fire, and turn the cake over, so that both sides 
 may be done. In Ireland, a little carbonate 
 of soda is used instead of butter. Time, five 
 to six minutes to bake. Probable cost, 4d. for 
 this quantity. Sufficient for about one dozen 
 cakes. 
 
 GLACE NAPOLITAIN. 
 
 Take four ounces of Carolina rice, wash it 
 thoroughly, and put it in a stewpan over a slow 
 fire with a pint of milk, a pint of good cream, a 
 pinch of salt, and two ounces of sugar. Let the 
 rice swell considerably in this. When it is tender 
 enough to give way between the fingers, add a 
 stick of good vanilla, and boil it one minute, 
 then let it get cold. When cold, take all the 
 cream that remains unabsorbed, and put it in a 
 stewpan with the beaten yolks of six eggs; if 
 there is not cream enough, add to it a little milk. 
 Stir this on the fire with a wooden spoon, and 
 when the eggs are well done, and the mixture 
 vei-y thick, let it cool. Add to this a pint of 
 double-whipped cream, and. after mixing the 
 cream with the custard, taste if the latter is 
 sweet enough. Do not make it too sweet. Then 
 take some out in a basin, and put it into the rice 
 only, not into the freezing-pot; next mix to- 
 gether the rice and cream, take out the vanilla, 
 and put all the rest into the freezing-pot ; work 
 it well in the ice. When quite frozen, put it in 
 ice-moulds that shut on both sides ; put them in 
 the pail with salt all round the ice. At dinner- 
 time dip the moulds in cold water, and push the 
 glace off the moulds, and cover it with the 
 remainder of cream. 
 
 GLAZE. 
 
 Glaze is made from clear stock, boiled down 
 until it forms a sort of meat varnish, or strong 
 jelly; it is used to improve the appearance of 
 many dishes. It is also made in large quan- 
 tities for use in soups and sauces, and for this 
 purpose is very convenient. It is especially 
 suited for travellers, as it is nourishing, com- 
 pact, and economical. The knuckle of veal, 
 the legs and shins of beef, and the shanks of 
 mutton are particularly gelatinous, and there- 
 fore the best for making glaze. Glaze may be 
 kept for some time in small jars, such as are 
 used for jelly, if kept dry. When a little is 
 wanted in domestic cookery, a pint of clear beef 
 stock may be boiled quickly down, to produce 
 about a table-spoonful, or as much as will orna- 
 ment a joint. Or the gravy found under the 
 fat left from a roasted joint may be mixed with 
 melted gelatine to make glaze. Glaze should 
 be kept in an earthen jar, and when it is wanted 
 for use this jar should be placed in a saucepan 
 of boiling water, and its contents melted in 
 this way, care being taken that the saucepan is 
 not so full that the water will go into the 
 glaze. Glaze must never be put upon a joint 
 unless the latter is quite dry, and two or 
 three layers should be put on it, with a 
 paste-brush, allowing one layer to dry before 
 another is put on. Glaze may be purchased 
 at Italian warehouses in any quantity. It is 
 usually sold in skins, and costs about 2s. 6d. 
 per pound. 
 
GLA 
 
 257 
 
 GOL 
 
 GLAZE FOR COLD HAMS, TONGUES, ETC. 
 
 Take some clear, strong stock, made from the 
 bones of a shin of beef or a. knuckle of veal, 
 without either salt, pepper, or herbs, and quite 
 free from fat or sediment. Put it into a copper 
 stewpan, with a little whole pepper, and let it 
 boil quickly until it is as thick as syrup. It 
 must be closely watched, and, as soon as it 
 begins to thicken, stirred without ceasing. 
 Keep trying a little on a plate, and when it sets 
 like jam it is done enough; it must be boiled 
 until it will do this. If a light-coloured glaze 
 ' is wanted, more veal than beef should be used. 
 Time, boil as quickly as possible till the stock 
 begins to thicken, then put it into another and 
 smaller saucepan, and simmer gently until it 
 jellies. On the average, one pound of meat will 
 produce an ounce of glaze. 
 
 GLAZE FOR PASTRY. 
 
 A rich yellow glaze is given to meat-pies by 
 brushing them over with the beaten yolk of an 
 egg. A lighter glaze is given by using the 
 white as well as the yolk, and a lighter still by 
 ■the addition of a, little milk, or, for sweet 
 dishes, by brushing the pastry with sugar and 
 water. 
 
 GLOUCESTER JELLY (Invalid cookery). 
 
 Put an ounce each of ground rice, sago, 
 eringo-root, harishoru-shavings, and pearl bar- 
 ley into a saucepan, with two quarts of water, 
 and boil gently until the liquid is reduced to 
 one quart. Strain, and put aside till wanted. 
 It may be sweetened and flavoured, and eaten 
 like jelly, or a few spoonfuls of it may be dis- 
 solved in milk, tea, or broth. It is nourish- 
 ing, and easily digested. Gelatine or isinglass 
 may be used instead of hartshorn shavings, if 
 preferred. Time, . about two hours to boil. 
 Probable cost, 6d. per quart. Sufficient for one 
 quart of jelly. 
 
 GLOUCESTER PUDDINGS. 
 
 Take three eggs, and their weight in equal 
 quantities of butter and flour; mix thoroughly, 
 and add twelve bitter almonds, blanched and 
 pounded, and a quarter of a pound of sifted loaf 
 sugar. Beat well together to a light batter. 
 Half fill some cups with the mixture, bake, turn 
 out, and serve with wine sauce. Time to bake, 
 half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for 
 four persons. 
 
 GLOVE CAKES. 
 
 Beat the yolks of five eggs; mix them with 
 sufficient flour to make a smooth, firm paste; 
 add three table-spoonfuls of finely-sifted sugar, 
 three table-spoonfuls of thick cream, and some 
 cardamoms. Roll out the pastry, cut it into 
 fanciful shapes, and fry in hot butter, to which 
 has been added a spoonful or two of water. 
 Time, five or six minutes to fry. Probable cost, 
 8d. for this quantity. 
 
 GNOCCHIS (k la Fran9aise). 
 
 Pour a glass of water into a saucepan, add a 
 pinch of salt, pepper, sugar, and about one 
 ounce of butter; boil, and then add about a 
 quarter of a pound of well-aifted dried flour; 
 stir well and cook for a few minutes. Put this 
 into a basin : add an egg, and knead well ; then 
 another egg, and mix it thoroughly : lastly an 
 
 ounce of grated Parmesan and Gruyere cheese, 
 and a pinch of nutmeg. When thoroughly 
 amalgamated, put the whole into a linen bag 
 with a medium-sized forcing pipe attached to 
 it, and have ready a pan filled with slightly 
 salted boiling water. Take the bag in the left 
 hand and press it, in order to force out the 
 paste in strings. Cut the strings in pieces with 
 a sharp knife as they drop out into the water. 
 Then put the pan upon the fire and boil the 
 contents slowly for a few minutes. Drain 
 them, and keep warm in a little hot stock. 
 Used as a garnishing for consommes or chickfen 
 broth. Probable cost, 8d. 
 
 GOBBLE SAUCE FOR FISH. 
 
 Put one ounce of butter into a saucepan, and 
 mix it very smoothly with an ounce of flour. 
 Add six table-spoonfuls of cream or new milk, 
 a pinch of cayenne, two or three grates of nut- 
 meg, a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovies, 
 and a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice. Stir in 
 two table-spoonfuls of shelled shrimps, and 
 serve quite hot, but the sauce must not boil. 
 Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for half a pint of 
 sauce. 
 
 GODIVEAU (a French forcemeat). 
 
 Take a pound of the fillet of veal, and a pound 
 and a half of good beef suet. Remove the skin 
 and gristle, chop the meat small, and pound it 
 in a mortar. Add a tea-spoonful of salt, half 
 a tea-spoonful of pepper, half a nutmeg, grated, 
 a table-spoonful of scalded and minced parsley, 
 and a tea-spoonful of chopped onions or chives, 
 if the latter are suitable for the dish with which 
 the forcemeat is to be served. Add, whilst 
 pounding — a tea-spoonful at a time — two well- 
 beaten eggs, and a little water. Take the force- 
 meat up, and put it in a cool place for an hour. 
 It should be so thoroughly pounded that no 
 pieces are distinguishable. When a large quan- 
 tity of forcemeat is required, a little custard 
 may be gradually mixed with the other ingre- 
 dients. This forcemeat should be made in a 
 cool place, and quickly. It is a good plan to 
 fry a small quantity of it in hot fat, to see if 
 it suits the taste, and then add either another 
 Bgg, a little water, or a little more seasoning, 
 as required. Time, about half an hour to pre- 
 pare. Probable cost. Is. 2d. per pound. 
 
 GODIVEAU RAISED PIE. 
 
 A good dish may be made by filling a raised 
 pie with balls made of Godiveau forcemeat (see 
 the preceding recipe), mixed with any savoury 
 ragout, and pouring over the whole a rich 
 sauce. 
 
 GOLDEN PIPPINS, TO PRESERVE. > 
 
 Take one dozen golden pippins, pare them, 
 and scoop out the core, without breaking the 
 apples. Put two pounds of sugar into a pre- 
 serving-pan, with one pint of watei', and — for 
 a few minutes — the rind of a Seville orange 
 cut into strips; then put in the pippins, and, 
 when the syrup seems thick, add a pint of apple 
 jelly, nicely flavoured with lemon. Boil quickly 
 until the jelly is clear, then lift the pippins 
 into jars, pour the syrup, etc., over them, and, 
 when cold, cover securely. Time, about three- 
 quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. for 
 this quantity. 
 
GOL 
 
 258 
 
 GOO 
 
 eOLDEN PUDDING. 
 
 Shred very finely six ounces of beef suet; 
 mix with it half a pound of bread-crumbs, four 
 table-spoonfuls of sugar, half a pound of orange 
 marmalade, three eggs, and a pinch of salt. 
 A little baking-powder will make the pudding 
 lighter. Beat all the ingredients well together, 
 and, if the pudding is not sufficiently moist- 
 ened, add a little milk. Tie down in a well- 
 floured cloth, and boil for three hours. Serve 
 with wine sauce. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Suf- 
 ficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 GOOD FRIDAY BUNS (commonly called Hot Cross 
 Buns). 
 Rub a quarter of a pound of butter into two 
 pounds of flour. Add a pinch of salt; then 
 mix a wine-glassful of fresh, thick yeast with a 
 pint and a half of warmed milk, and stir these 
 into the flour till it forms a light batter. Put 
 the batter in a warm place to rise. When suf- 
 ficiently risen, work into it half a pound of 
 sugar, half a jiound of currants, half a nutmeg, 
 grated, and a quarter of an ounce of powdered 
 mace. Knead these well into the dough, make 
 it up into buns, and place them on buttered 
 baking-tins. Make a cross on them with the 
 back of a knife, brush a little clarified butter 
 over the top, and let them stand a quarter of 
 an hour before the fire. Bake in a good oven. 
 When bread is made at home, hot cross buns 
 may be made by mixing the currants, etc., with 
 bread dough after it has risen. Time, one hour 
 to let the dough rise; twenty minutes to bake. 
 Sufiicient for two dozen buns. Probable cost. 
 Is. 6d. for this quantity. 
 
 QOOSE (k t'Arlesienne). 
 
 Truss a goose as for boiling. Stuff it with 
 a forcemeat made as follows. Boil four large 
 onions for a few minutes. Drain, chop them 
 small, and mix with them four ounces of bread- 
 crumbs which have been soaked in milk, three 
 ounces of fresh butter, a table-spoonful of 
 chopped parsley, a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, 
 a little pepper and salt, and four ounces of 
 chestnuts prepared as for forcemeat (see Chbst- 
 NTJT Foecemeat). Put the goose in a braising- 
 pan, with a large sliced carrot, half a head of 
 celery, or a small quantity of pounded celery- 
 seed tied in muslin, a bunch of savoury 
 herbs, an onion stuck with six cloves, a sprig 
 of parsley, a blade of mace, half a dozen pepper- 
 corns, and as much stock or water as will barely 
 cover the goose. Let it braise slowly for two 
 hours, then take it out, strain the liquor and, 
 after skimming off the fat, boil it down until it 
 is considerably reduced. Mix with it an equal 
 quantity of tomato sauce, and serve the goose 
 with the sauce poured round it. Probable cost of 
 goose, 6s., when in full season. Sufficient for 
 eight or ten persons. 
 
 GOOSE (k la Daube). 
 
 If a goose is too old to be tender when 
 roasted, it may be advantageously cooked as 
 follows. Truss the goose as for boiling. Either 
 lard it, or place two or three slices of bacon 
 at the bottom of the pan in which it is to be 
 stewed. Put it into a stewpan with an onion, 
 a carrot, a bunch of savoury herbs, one root 
 of parsley, two bay-leaves, a blade of mace. 
 
 half a dozen peppercorns, a tea-spoonful of 
 salt, two glasses of sherry, half a glass of 
 brandy, and as much stock or water as will just 
 cover the goose. Fix on the lid v6ry tightly, 
 and stew gfently for four hours. Dish the 
 bird. Strain the sauce, and pour it on the 
 dish. If the goose is to be served cold, reduce 
 the sauce to a jelly, and pour as much over the 
 goose as the dish will neatly hold. The giblets 
 may be stewed in the same vessel, and used 
 separately in various ways. Sufficient for eight 
 or ten persons. Probable cost of goose, 6s, 
 
 GOOSE, BOILED. 
 
 Pick and singe a goose, and truss it securely. 
 It may be stuffed, if liked, as for roasting. 
 Put it on in hot water or stock, bring to the 
 boil, and skim well, then cook very gently until 
 done, which will be in one and a half or two 
 hours, according to size and age. Serve good 
 onion sauce with- it. {See also G-oose, To Bon.) 
 
 GOOSE, BONNE BOUCHE FOR. 
 
 Mix very smoothly half a tea-spoonful of salt, 
 a pinch of cayenne, and a tea-spoonful of made 
 mustard, with a glass of port, and pour it into 
 the goose just before serving, through a slit 
 made in the apron. Time, ten minutes to pre- 
 pare. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for one 
 goose. 
 
 GOOSE, BRAISED (k la Jardiniere) 
 
 Cook a goose according to the directions 
 given foi; GoosB 1 LA Daube. When it is suf- 
 ficiently stewed, put in the liquid any quantity 
 of mixed vegetables, ready cooked, such as 
 French beans, green peas, pieces of cauliflower, 
 and carrots and turnips, cut into shapes. 
 Thicken the sauce, let all boil up together, aiid 
 serve with the goose. Time, four hours to 
 stew. Probable cost of goose, 6s. Sufficient 
 for eight or ten persons. {See also Goose, To 
 Beaise.) 
 
 GOOSE, COLD SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Put two ounces of green sage-leaves into a 
 jar, with one ounce of thin lemon-rind, a minced 
 shallot, a tea-spoonful of salt, a salt-spoonful of 
 cayenne pepper, and a pint of claret. Soak foj 
 a fortnight, then pour off the clear liquid, and 
 serve in a tureen, or boil half a cupful in half a 
 pint of good gravy. If not wanted for imme- 
 diate use, this sauce may be kept in a bottle 
 closely corked. Probable cost, 2d., exclusive of 
 the wine. Sufficient for one pint of sauce. 
 
 GOOSE, COLD, TO HASH. 
 
 Cut the remains of a cold goose into small, 
 convenient-sized pieces. Put some sliced onions 
 into a stewpan with a piece of butter, and let 
 them fry until they are tender, but not burnt. 
 Add as much stock or water as will be sauce 
 for the hash, with a little pepper, salt, a bunch 
 of sweet herbs, the bones and skin of the goose, 
 and a glass of port or claret, if liked. Boil 
 gently, until the gravy is well-flavoured, then 
 strain it, thicken it, if necessary, and put in 
 the pieces of goose to get hot, but the gravy 
 must not boil after the meat is added. If any 
 goose-stuffing has been left, heat it in the oven. 
 Place the goose on a hot dish, pour the gravy 
 over it, and garnish with shapes of toasted bread 
 and little heaps of stuffing. Time, three- 
 
GOO 
 
 259 
 
 GOO 
 
 quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 4d., ex- 
 clusive of the cold meat, etc. 
 
 GOOSE, FORCEMEAT FOR. 
 
 (See Forcemeat tor Goose.) 
 
 GOOSE, GRAVY FOR. 
 
 Slice a large onion, and fry it in -a little 
 butter, or good dripping, with half a pound of 
 gravy-beef, until slightly browned. Pour over 
 it a pint and a half of water, with any bones 
 or trimmings you may have, and simmer gently 
 for two hours. Skim off the fat, season with a 
 little salt and pepper, and mix in the gravy 
 that has dropped from the goose. Thicken with 
 a table-spoonful of flour. Strain the gravy, put 
 a little into the dish with the goose, and send 
 the rest to table in a tureen. Apple sauce 
 also usually accompanies roast goose. Prob- 
 able cost, lOd. SuiScient for one pint of 
 gravy. 
 
 GOOSE, GRAVY FOR (another way). 
 
 Put the giblets of the goose into a saucepan, 
 with half a pound of gravy-beef, three or four 
 green sage-leaves, two small onions, a piece of 
 toasted crust, some whole pepper, a little salt, 
 and three pints of water. Bring the liquid to a 
 boil, skim, and simmer gently for two hours 
 and a half. Strain, and thicken with a little 
 flour, and boil once more. Before serving, a 
 glass of port or claret may be added, if liked. 
 Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the giblets and 
 wine. Sufficient for two pints and a half of 
 gravy. 
 
 GOOSE, GREEN, DRESSING A. 
 
 Truss a green goose in the same way as a full- 
 grown one. It must not be stuffed, but the 
 inside must be seasoned with pepper and salt, 
 and two or three ounces of fresh butter put in 
 to moisten it. Set the bird down to a clear, 
 brisk fire, and when it is sufliciently cooked, 
 serve with water-cress round it, and send 
 brown gravy and either sorrel, gooseberry, or 
 tomato sauce, to table with it. Time, about 
 three-quarters of an hour to roast. Sufiicient 
 for six or eight persons. Probable cost, 5s. 
 
 GOOSE, GRILLED. 
 
 Take the remains of a cold goose. The legs, 
 back, rump, and gizzard are especially suit- 
 able. The breast, etc., may be made into a 
 hash. Dip the joints in clarified butter, and 
 score the flesh in two or three places, pepper 
 them rather highly, strew a little salt over 
 them, dip them in finely-grated bread-crumbs, 
 and, again, in the butter, and broil them over 
 a strong clear fire until brightly browned. 
 Serve either dry or with grill sauce (see 
 Grill Sauce). Time, three or four minutes to 
 broil. 
 
 GOOSE HAMS. 
 
 Geese are in some parts salted, cured, and 
 smoked. Cut the goose through the back, the 
 breast, and legs. Rub a quarter of an ounce of 
 saltpetre well into it, and, afterwards, half a 
 pound of salt, and two ounces of good brown 
 sugar. Let the bird remain in pickle for three 
 days, turning it every day, and rubbing it well 
 with the seasoning. Dip the pieces, wet with the 
 brine, into sawdust, covering each piece well. 
 Hang them in smoke for a week, then let them 
 
 hang in a dry place. Before using them, rub 
 off the sawdust. They are eaten without fur- 
 ther cooking, with bread and butter. The lean 
 should be red, and the fat white. 
 
 GOOSE, HOW TO CHOOSE. 
 
 Choose a young goose. This is more easily 
 said than done, as geese are frequently offered 
 for sale when they are much too old to be eaten. 
 The breast should be plump, the skin white, and 
 the feet pliable and yellow. If the last are red 
 or stiff, the bird is old or stale. Although 
 Michaelmas is the time for geese, they are in 
 perfection about June; after Christmas the 
 flesh is tough. A goose ought not to be eaten 
 after it is a year old. It is said that Queen 
 Elizabeth was the originator of the Michaelmas 
 goose. She had one on the table before her, 
 when the news arrived of the defeat of the 
 Spanish Armada, and she commanded the same 
 dish to be served every succeeding Michaelmas. 
 Green or young geese come into season in 
 March. 
 
 GOOSE IN JELLY, OR DUCK IN JELLY. 
 
 Put the goose in a deep stewpan, and barely 
 cover it with clean stock, or water. Put with 
 it a dessert-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of 
 pepper, two large onions, two bay-leaves, two 
 or three sprigs of lemon thyme and sweet basil, 
 with a small piece of tarragon. Put the cover 
 on the saucepan, and simmer gently, until the 
 meat parts easily from the bones. Take out 
 the goose, drain it from the gravy, remove the 
 bones, which may be returned to the sauce- 
 pan, and boiled a little longer, and cut the 
 meat into convenient-sized pieces. Skim off the 
 fat, add a little more pepper and salt to the 
 gravy, if necessary, strain it through a jelly-bag, 
 and mix with an ounce of good gelatine, which 
 has been soaked in cold water for half an hour 
 or more. Put a little of the jelly into the bot- 
 tom of the mould. Let it set, then put in any 
 pretty ornamental devices, such as hard-boiled 
 eggs, sliced beetroot, pickles, etc. ; pour a little 
 more jelly over these, and, when it is stiff, pirt 
 in the pieces of meat, leaving room for the jelly 
 to flow between them. Let the dish remain 
 until the next day, then turn out, and garnish 
 according to taste. Time to simmer the goose, 
 two hours, or a little more. Sufficient for a 
 breakfast, luncheon, or supper dish. Probable 
 cost of goose, 6s. ; or a couple of ducks instead 
 may be prepared in this way. 
 
 GOOSE, MARINADED. 
 
 Pluck, singe, and bone a goose. If the latter 
 operation is too difficult, it may be dispensed 
 with. Stuff the bird with a highly-seasoned 
 sage-and-onion stufSng, truss it securely, and 
 fry it in a little hot fat until slightly browned 
 all round. Take it up, put it in a. saucepan, 
 just cover it with good gravy, and let it sim- 
 mer gently for two hours and a half. Drain it, 
 put it in the oven to keep warm; skim th* 
 gravy, thicken it with a little flour and buttet, 
 add some browning, a, table-spoonful of lemon 
 pickle, an anchovy, pounded, and a seasoning 
 of pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. A glass 
 of port may be added, if liked. Put the goose 
 on a hot dish, pour the gravy over it, and serve. 
 Probable uost of goose, 6s. Sufficient for eight 
 or ten persons. 
 
GOO 
 
 260 
 
 GOO 
 
 GOOSE PIE. 
 
 This is made either with one goose, or, what 
 is better still, two green geese. Braise or stew 
 them (see GoosB k l'Aklbsienne), and cut each 
 goose into eight pieces; season, and put them 
 into a, good raised crust. Or they may he put 
 into a pie-dish with a short crust, in the usual 
 way. A good-sized piece of bvitter should be 
 put into the dish. Time, two hours to bake. 
 Probable cost, one goose, Bs. Suificient for 
 eight or nine persons. 
 
 GOOSE PIE (another way). 
 
 The real English Christmas goose pie proper 
 is made by brtning a goose, turkey, fowl, and 
 pigeon, and putting the turkey inside the 
 goo-se, the fowl inside the turkey, and the 
 pigeon inside the fowl. A strong raised crust 
 is then fixed properly in form, and all are put 
 inside it, any vacancies being filled up with 
 pieces of ham, tongue, or forcemeat. Clarified 
 "butter is poured over the whole, the top put on, 
 and the crust brushed over with beaten egg, 
 and ornamented. It should be well bound with 
 -three or four folds of buttered paper before 
 being put into the oven. Time to bake, four 
 hours. 
 
 -GOOSE PUDDING, OR SAVOURY PUDDING 
 
 (a Yorkshire recipe). 
 Pour as much boiling milk over a pound of 
 stale bread as will just cover it. Let it soak 
 until soft, then beat it with a fork, and take 
 out any lumps that will not soften. Add six 
 ounces of beef suet, finely shredded, four large 
 onions, boiled and chopped, a dessert-spoonful 
 of powdered sage, and the same of marjoram 
 and thyme, a, dessert-spoonful of salt, a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper, a dessert-spoonful of oat- 
 meal, and three eggs well beaten. Spread the 
 mixture in a buttered or greased dripping-tin, 
 about three-quarters of an inch in thickness. 
 Put it in the oven for half an hour, to cook the 
 under-part, then place it under the goose, be- 
 fore the fire, and let the gravy drip on it. It 
 nvust be well browned in every part. Cut it 
 into squares, and serve it at the same time as 
 the goose. This pudding may also be served 
 with roast pork. Time, an hour and a half. 
 Probable cost. Is. 3d. Suflcient for six or 
 eight persons. 
 
 GOOSE, ROAST. 
 
 A roast goose is generally filled with sage- 
 and-onion stuffing (see Goose Stuiting, Sage- 
 and-ostion). The way in which this is made 
 must depend upon the taste of those who have 
 to eat it. If a strong fl^avour of onion is liked, 
 the onions should be chopped raw. If this is not 
 the case, they should be boiled in one, two, or 
 three waters, and mixed with a smaller or •. 
 larger proportion of bread-crumbs. It should 
 be remembered, when bread-crumbs are used, 
 room should be allowed for swelling. Truss the 
 goose firmly, tie the openings securely, put it 
 down to a clear, brisk fire, and baste it plenti- 
 fully until done enough. A goose is both un- 
 wholesome and unpalatable if insufficiently 
 cooked. Take it up, remove the skewers and 
 fastenings, pour a little gravy into it (see Goose, 
 Bonne Bouche fos), and send some good gravy 
 (see Goose Gbavy), and either apple or tomato 
 
 sauce to table with it. Garnish with lemon. 
 Time, from an hour and a half to two hours and 
 a half. Probable cost of goose, 6s. (See Goose 
 Stuffing, To Depbive of Offensive Odoue.) 
 
 goose, roast, to carve. 
 
 Begin by turning the neck end of the goose 
 towards you, and cutting the whole breast in 
 long slices, from one wing to another. To take 
 ofE the leg, insert the fork in the small end 
 of the bone, pressing it to the body, put the 
 knife in above the thick of the leg, turn the 
 leg back, and, if the bird be young, it will 
 easily come away. To take off the wing, insert 
 the fork in the small end of the pinion, and 
 press it close to the body; put the knife in at 
 the base of the breast, and divide the joint. 
 When the leg and wing are off one side, attack 
 those on the other; but, except when the com- 
 pany is very large, it is seldom necessary to 
 cut up the whole goose. The back and lower 
 side bones, as well as the two side bones by 
 the wing, may be cut off ; but the best pieces of 
 a goose are the breast and the thighs, after 
 the latter have been separated from the drum- 
 sticks. Serve a little of the seasoning from 
 the inside, by making a circular slice in the 
 apron. Should there be no stuffing, a glass of 
 wine, a little orange-gravy or vinegar may be 
 poured into the body of the goose, at the open- 
 ing made in the apron by the carver for this 
 purpose. (See Goose, Bonne Botjche foe.) 
 
 GOOSE SOUP. 
 
 When a goose is boiled, a good soup may be 
 made of the liquid, but it is well to use stock, 
 instead of water, in which to boil the bird. Put 
 the giblets as well into the saucepan, together 
 ■with half a pound of lean ham, an onion, a 
 carrot, and a head of celery, or half a tea-spoon- 
 ful of pounded celery-seed. Skim well and sim- 
 mer gently, until the goose is sufficiently cooked. 
 Take it up, together with the giblets, the former 
 of which. may be served with onion sauce, and 
 the latter made into a pie. Strain the soup, sea- 
 son it with cayenne, and add half a tumblerful 
 of sherry or Madeira. No salt will be required if 
 the ham has been used. Time to boil, two hours. 
 
 GOOSE, STEWED. 
 
 Truss, and put in stewpan, with a slice of 
 bacon under goose : the bacon should be 
 sprinkled with mixed herbs and pepper, and 
 with French vinegar and tomato vinegar — 
 a table-spoonful in all. Put more bacon on 
 goose, with same additions. Slice an onion, 
 grate a carrot, and lay round the bird. Pour 
 over all a glass of sherry and a pint of stock. 
 Add giblets prepared in usual way. Stew for 
 four hours, turning goose occasionally. Eeduce 
 and skim gravy. Pass carrot and onion 
 through a coarse sieve, season gravy, and 
 thicken with browned flour. Boil well, and 
 pour round goose. 
 
 GOOSE STUFFING, APPLlE. 
 
 Pare, core, and cut into small pieces some 
 good baking apples. Pill the goose as full as 
 it will hold with these, fasten the openings 
 securely, and roast. When this stuffing is used, 
 apple sauce may be dispensed with. " In Ger- 
 many, a few almonds, blanched and sliced, are 
 sometimes mixed with the apples. 
 
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 261 
 
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 GOOSE STUFFING, CHESTNUT. 
 
 Take the outer skin from about two dozen 
 fine, sound claestnuts, and throw them into 
 boiling water. Let them simmer a minute or 
 two over the fire, when they may be blanched 
 like almonds. Put them into a saucepan with 
 as much stock as will cover them, let them 
 stew gently until soft, then drain them; mix 
 with them two ounces of butter, a tea-spoon- 
 ful of minced parsley, a parboiled onion, 
 chopped small, and a little pepper and salt. 
 Put this stuffing into the goose. Fasten the 
 ends securely, and roast before a clear fire. 
 Time, twenty minutes to simmer the chestnuts. 
 Sufficient for one goose. 
 
 GOOSE STUFFING, POTATO. 
 
 Take two pounds of good sound potatoes, 
 peel and wash them, and cut them into small 
 pieces, with an onion, finely minced. Put them 
 into a stewpan, with a piece of butter the size 
 of a walnut. Cover the pan closely, and shake 
 it about, that the potatoes may not stick to 
 the bottom, and when they are partly cooked, 
 but not tender, mix with them the liver of the 
 goose, chopped small. Strew over them a tea- 
 spoonful of powdered sage, a salt-spoonful of 
 salt, and half a salt-spoonful of pepper. Put 
 the stuffing inside the goose, tie the openings 
 securely, and roast. If preferred, the potatoes 
 may be mashed, instead of being cooked as 
 above. Time, five or six minutes to steam the 
 potatoes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient to stuff 
 a goose. 
 
 GOOSE STUFFING, SAGE-AND-ONION. 
 
 Boil four large onions till tender ; drain them 
 from the water, and mince them finely with 
 four fresh sage-leaves, or six- dry ones, four 
 table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs, a tea-spoonful 
 of salt, a tea-spoonful of made mustard, a tea- 
 spoonful of moist sugar, and half a tea-spoonful 
 of pepper : a large apple, pared and cored, and a 
 quarter of a nutmeg, grated, may be added, if 
 approved. Time to boil the onions, from 
 twenty minutes to half an hour. - Sufficient for 
 a good-sized goose. Probable cost, 6d. for this 
 quantity. (See also additional particulars con- 
 nected with this stuffing, under Goose, Roast.) 
 
 GOOSE STUFFING (to deprive of offensive odour). 
 The unpleasantness arising from eating sage- 
 and-onion stuffing used for roast goose may be 
 in a great measure prevented by putting in the 
 centre of the stuffing, before the bird is cooked, 
 a lemon with the yellow rind taken off, and as 
 much of the thick white skin left on as possi- 
 ble. Before the goose is sent to table, the flap 
 should be opened and the lemon taken out, and 
 at once thrown away. The lemon will have 
 absorbed a great part of the impurities, which 
 otherwise would have remained in the stuffing. 
 Care should be taken not to cut the lemon so 
 that the juice could escape. 
 
 GOOSE, TO BOIL. 
 
 Pick and singe a goose carefully. Let it soak 
 in lukewarm milk and water for eight or ten 
 hours. Stuff, and truss it securely; put it into 
 a saucepan, with as much cold water as will 
 cover iti bring it to a boil, and let it simmer 
 cently until done enough. Send good onion 
 sauce to table with it. Time, from an hour and 
 
 a half to two hours after it has boiled. Prob- 
 able cost of goose, 6s. Sufficient for eight or 
 ten persons. (See also Goose, Boiled.) 
 
 GOOSE, TO BRAISE. 
 
 Truss the bird as if for boiling. A braisingf- 
 pan proper is constructed to hold live coal on 
 the lid, but where this is not to be had, the 
 goose must be put into an ordinary §tewpan, 
 with a closely-fitting lid. Fat bacon and 
 savoury herbs should be laid both above and 
 under it, and a little stock added to moisten it. 
 Thick folds of paper should then be put on it, 
 and the lid wrapped about with a cloth to pre- 
 vent any of the steam escaping. The bird should 
 be cooked very slowly. Time, five hours. Suf- 
 ficient for eight or ten persons. Probable cost 
 of goose, 63. 
 
 GOOSE, TO TRUSS, FOR ROASTING. 
 
 Pluck the goose. Carefully remove the quill- 
 sockets, and singe off the hairs. Cut off the 
 neck close to the back, leaving the skin long 
 enough to turn over. After drawing, wash and 
 wipe the bird both inside and out, and cut off 
 the feet and pinions at the first joint. Pull out 
 the throat, and tie the end securely. Beat the 
 breast-bone flat with a rolling-pin. Draw the 
 legs up closely, and put a skewer through them 
 and through the body, and another through the 
 pinions and through the body. Cut off the 
 end of the vent, and make a hole in the skin 
 large enough for the rump to go through. This 
 will prevent the seasoning escaping. 
 
 GOOSEBERRIES. 
 
 The gooseberry is so universal a favourite,. 
 and is so well-known, that it is unnecessary to- 
 give any description of it. It is exceedingly 
 wholesome and refreshing, and many dishes 
 may be made from it. The principal varieties 
 are the white and red, and the red is the more 
 acid of the two. Smooth-skinned gooseberries 
 are much inferior in flavour to the rough hairy 
 ones. , 
 
 GOOSEBERRIES, DRIED, FOR WINTER DESSERT. 
 
 Cut the tops, but not the stalks, from two 
 pounds of large ripe gooseberries, either red 
 or green. Put them into a syrup made by boil- 
 ing together a pound of sugar and a pint of 
 water until rather thick. Simmer the goose- 
 berries gently for ten or fifteen minutes, then 
 pour them out with the syrup, and leave them 
 until the next day. Then boil them again for 
 ten minutes, drain .the syrup from them, and 
 spread them on a sieve before the fire to dry. 
 They may be candied by dipping them into 
 powdered sugar as they are taken out of the 
 syrup. They should be stored between sheets 
 of paper in tin boxes. Probable cost. Is. for 
 this quantity. 
 
 GOOSEBERRIES, GREEN, COMPOTE OF. 
 
 Top and tail a quart of gooseberries. Put 
 them into boiling water for two minutes, and 
 next into cold water, mixed with a table-spoon- 
 ful of vinegar, for two minutes, to restore the 
 colour, then drain them. Make a syrup by boil- 
 ing three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar in 
 lumps, with one pint of water for ten minutes. 
 Put in the gooseberries. Boil them gently for 
 ten minutes, or until the fruit is tender but 
 
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 262 
 
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 unbroken. Turn them out with the syrup, and 
 serve cold. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. 
 Probable cost, 7d. 
 
 GOOSEBERRIES, GREEN, TO BOTTLE. 
 
 Gather some gooseberries on a dry morning, 
 and use them on the same day that they are 
 picked. Warrington's are the best for this pur- 
 pose. They should be fully formed, but quite 
 hard. 'take off the tops and stalks without 
 bruising the skins, and reject any that are not 
 quite sound and whole. Put them into dry, 
 wide-necked bottles, nearly fill them with water, 
 and place these up to the necks in a sauce- 
 pan of cold water. It is well to twist a 
 little hay or straw round each bottle, to pre- 
 vent them touching each other and being 
 broken. Bring the contents of the saucepan 
 slowly to a boil, and then lift it from the fire, 
 and let the bottles remain in it until the goose- 
 berries are sufficiently scalded. In order to 
 ascertain when this is the case, look at one of 
 the bottles, and when the fruit has risen from 
 the bottom it is done enough. Pour a little 
 brandy over the fruit, to prevent it get- 
 ting mouldy. Cork and seal securely, and cover 
 the corks with bladder. Place them on their 
 ■sides in a, cool, dry place, and before using pour 
 off the greater part of the water, and add sugar 
 according to taste. Time, five or ten minutes 
 after the water has boiled. Probable cost of 
 gooseberries, 3d. per quart. 
 
 GOOSEBERRIES, GREEN, TO PRESERVE WHOLE. 
 
 Pick the tops and stalks from some large 
 green gooseberries, put them on the fire, in a 
 saucepan of cold water, and let them simmer 
 gently until they are tender, but unbroken. 
 Throw them into cold water, and for every 
 three-quarters of a pound of fruit make a syrup 
 with a pound of loaf sugar and a pint of water. 
 Let the syrup grow cold, put it again into a 
 saucepan, and lift the gooseberries gently into 
 it. Let them boil until the sugar has got into 
 them, then take them out carefully, and the 
 next day drain the syrup from them, and boil 
 it until smooth. In order to ascertain when this 
 degree is reached, dip the finger and thumb 
 into cold water, and take a little syrup between 
 them. If, when they arie opened, a strongs 
 thread forms, let the gooseberries boil once more 
 until the syrup is thick. Let them cool, put 
 them into jars, pour the syrup over them, cover 
 securely, and keep in a cool dry place. 
 
 GOOSEBERRIES, STEWED. 
 
 Put the required quantity of gooseberries 
 into a lined saucepan with one quarter the 
 weight of castor sugar, and a cupful of water 
 to keep them from burning, and stew very 
 slowly for half an hour. Let them get cold, 
 and serve with whipped cream on top. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY AND RICE PUDDING. 
 
 Wash half a pound of best Carolina rice. Put 
 it into a cloth, which has been dipped in hot 
 water and floured, and lay on it a pint and a 
 half of green gooseberries, picked and washed. 
 Tie the cloth securely, leaving plenty of room 
 for the rice to swell, and boil for an hour and a 
 half. Serve it with sweet sauce. Probable cost 
 for this quantity, 6d. Sufficient for six or 
 seven persons. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY BISCUITS. 
 
 Gather the fruit when full grown, but not 
 ripe ; put them into a jar and set them to boil 
 in a kettle of water till soft, then rub through a 
 sieve. To every pound of pulp allow a pound 
 of loaf sugar; stir the mass over the fire until 
 the sugar is dissolved, then pour it into shallow 
 dishes to dry in the sun or in a cool oven. When 
 it begins to candy it may be cut into any 
 desired shapes. Turn them every day until 
 they become dry and hard, and keep in tin 
 boxes in a dry place. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY CAKES. 
 
 Put some green gooseberries in a jar, and 
 place it in a saucepan of boiling water. Sim- 
 mer until the fruit is soft, then press it through 
 a sieve, and mix one pound of powdered sugar, 
 and the whites of two eggs, beaten to a froth, 
 with every pound of pulp. Beat thoroughly. 
 Put the mixture, in small round cakes, upon 
 sheets of paper. Place these on dishes before 
 the fire, and when sufficiently dry, store them 
 in tin boxes, and keep them in a dry place. 
 Time, about one hour to simmer the goose- 
 berries. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY CHAMPAGNE. 
 
 Choose gooseberries which, when fully ripe, 
 have little flavour. The green Bath are the 
 best. Take forty pounds of sound, large, hard 
 berries, remove the tops and stalks, and put 
 them into a fifteen-gallon tub. Bruise them 
 sufficiently to burst the berries without break- 
 ing the seeds, and pour over them four gallons 
 of lukewarm water. Stir, and squeeze them in 
 the hands until both the juice and pulp are 
 thoroughly separated from the seeds and skins, 
 then leave them until the next day, when the 
 liquid should be drawn off, and the fruit pressed 
 through a coarse sieve, with another gallon of 
 water, to extract as much of the goodness of 
 the fruit as possible. Dissolve thirty pounds of 
 loaf sugar in the juice, and, with water, make 
 the liquid up to eleven gallons. Leave it in the 
 tub, add three ounces of crude tartar, cover it 
 with a blanket, and let the temperature of the 
 place where it is set be from 50° to 60° Fahren- 
 heit. Let it remain for a day or two, then draw 
 it off into a ten-gallon cask, and keep it well 
 filled near the bunghole, hj pouring in the 
 extra gallon as the liquid subsides. When the 
 hissing noise ceases, drive in the bung, and 
 bore a hole by its side, into which a vent-peg 
 must be driven, and this must be loosened every 
 two or three days, to prevent the barred burst- 
 ing. When all danger of this appears to be over, 
 fasten in the peg tightly. Put the cask in a 
 cool cellar, and let it remain until the end of 
 December. Rack it from its lees into a fresh' 
 barrel, and in a month it will, in all probability, 
 be clear enough for bottling. If necessary, it 
 may be fined, by adding an ounce of isinglass, 
 dissolved in a bottle of the wine. It should be 
 bottled when the gooseberry-bushes begin to 
 blossom, and its briskness depends very much 
 upon its being bottled at the right time. Taste 
 the wine before racking it into a fresh vessel, 
 and if it be too sweet, renew the fermentation, 
 either by stirring up the lees or rolling the cask. 
 Wine should be bottled in clear, settled weather, 
 and the sooner it is bottled after fining, the 
 
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 263 
 
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 brighter it will be. Time, twenty-four hours 
 to stand before straining ; ten or twelve days 
 to ferment. Sufficient for ten gallons. Prob- 
 able cost, Is. 8d. per gallon. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY CHARLOTTE. 
 
 Pick the tops and stalks from a pound and a 
 half of gooseberries; wash and drain them, and 
 boil them with a pound and a half of loaf sugar, 
 until reduced to a pulp. Press them through a 
 coarse sieve. Take half a dozen sponge-bis- 
 cuits, cut them into thin slices, and line a plain 
 round mould with them. Pour in the fruit, 
 cover it with slices of spongecake, place a cover 
 and a weight on the top, and let it remain until 
 well set. Turn it ojit before serving, and pour 
 some good custard or nicely-flavoured cream 
 round it. Thin slices of bread may be used 
 instead of sponge-biscuit. Time, ten or twelve 
 hours to set properly. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY CHEESE. 
 
 Pick the tops and stalks from some rough red 
 gooseberries, fully ripe. Bake them in a mod- 
 erate oven till soft, then pulp them through a 
 fine sieve. Let them boil very gently, and add, 
 a little at a time, a quarter of a pound of loaf- 
 sugar to every pound of fruit-pulp. Boil, skim, 
 and stir it for half an hour; then pour it on 
 small plates, and dry it before the fire, or in a 
 cool oven. When dry, keep the cheese between 
 folds of white paper. Time, half an hour to boil. 
 Probable cost of gooseberries, 3d. per pound. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY CREAM. 
 
 Pick the stalks and tops from about two 
 pounds of green gooseberries. Wash, drain, 
 and boil them until soft and broken, in a pint 
 and a half of water. Press them through a 
 sieve, and to every pint of juice add a pound of 
 loaf sugar and the rind and juice of half a 
 lemon. Let these boil all together for fifteen 
 or twenty minutes, and, when cold, mix with 
 them half a pint of milk, in which an ounce of 
 isinglass or gelatine has been dissolved. Pour 
 into a mould, and put it in a cool place until 
 firm. This cream should be made the day be- 
 fore it is wanted. Sufficient for two quarts of 
 cream. Probable cost, 2s. 6d., with best isinglass. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY CUSTARD. 
 
 Boil a quart of gooseberries in half a pint of 
 water. Add a piece of butter the size of a 
 walnut. Boil the gooseberries quickly, and, 
 when soft, pulp them through a sieve. Add 
 three-quarters of » pound of sugar and the 
 yolks of four eggs. Stir ovpr the fire until 
 thick, but the berries must not boil. Serve in 
 a glass dish, or in custard-glasses. Time, boil 
 tUl soft — about fifteen minutes. Probable cost. 
 Is. Sufficient for seven or eight glasses. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY DUMPLING. 
 
 Line a plain round basin or mould with a 
 good suet crust (see Crust, Subt). Pick the 
 tops and stalks from as many gooseberries as 
 will fill it, strew some moist sugar over the top, 
 and cover with the p/jste. Pinch in the sides 
 securely, to prevent the juice escaping, and tie 
 in a floured cloth. Plunge the pudding into 
 boiling water, and boil for two or three hours, 
 according to the size of the pudding. Prob- 
 
 able cost, lOd. for a pudding large enough to 
 fill a quart mould. Sufficient for six or seven 
 persons. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY FOOL. 
 
 Take the tops and stalks from a pound of 
 green gooseberries, and boil them with three- 
 quarters of a pound of sugar and a cupful of 
 water. When quite soft, press them through a 
 coarse sieve, and mix with them, very gradually, 
 a pint of milk ; or cream, if a richer dish is 
 required. Serve when cold. This old-fashioned 
 dish is wholesome and inexpensive, and, when 
 well made, very agreeable. Time, about twenty 
 minutes to boil the fruit. Probable cost, 9d. 
 for this quantity, if made with milk. Sufficient 
 for six or seven persons. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY JAM. 
 
 Take the tops and stalks from some light- 
 coloured gooseberries, rather under-ripe, and 
 allow one pound of loaf sugar, and the finely- 
 grated rind and juice of half a lemon, to every 
 pound of fruit. Put the berries into a sauce- 
 pan, strew the sugar, etc., over them, add a 
 little water, to prevent burning, bring them to 
 a boil, and skim carefully. When the jam has 
 boiled about a quarter of an hour, put a little 
 on a cold plate. If it jellies, even slightly, it 
 may be taken from the fire, and poured into 
 jars. Probable cost, 7d. or 8d. per pound. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY JAM, GREEN. 
 
 Allow a pound of sugar and half a pint of 
 water to every pound of fruit. Boil the sugar 
 and water together for fifteen minutes. Skim 
 carefully, put in the gooseberries, and let them 
 simmer gently, stirring all the time, until the 
 jam will set when a little is put on a plate. 
 This will be in about forty-five minutes after 
 it has come to the boil. Pour into jars. Cover 
 with brandied or oiled paper, and place tissue 
 paper, dipped in strong gum-water, or in white 
 of egg, over the jars. Qn an average, "a pound 
 of jam may be obtained from a pound of fruit. 
 Probable cost, 8d. per pound. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY JAM, GREEN (another way). 
 
 Cut the stalks and tops from three pounds of 
 green gooseberries. Bruise them slightly, put 
 them into a preserving-pan, and let them boil 
 for seven or eight minutes, stirring all the 
 time, to prevent them sticking to the pan. Mix 
 with them two pounds and a half of powdered 
 loaf sugar, bring them quickly to the boil, then 
 simmer them gently for three-quarters of an 
 hour. A pound of jam may be obtained from 
 about a pound of fruit. Probable cost, 7d. or 
 8d. per pound. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY JAM, RED. 
 
 Take the tops and stalks from the goose- 
 berries, and allow three pounds of sugar to 
 every four pounds of fruit. It is a great im- 
 provement to add a pound of red currants to 
 every three pounds of gooseberries. Boil the 
 fruit. Keep it well stirred, to prevent it burn- 
 ingr, and as soon as the berries begin to break, 
 add the sugar. Let them boil for half an hour, 
 or until the jam will set when a little is put on 
 a plate. If it will not do this at the end of half 
 an hour, it must boil longer. Pour it into jars, 
 and cover closely, in the usual way. Sufficient, 
 
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 2Gi 
 
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 a pound of fruit, etc., for a pound of jam. 
 Probable cost, 7d. or 8d. per pound. 
 
 SOOSEBERRY JAM, RED (another way). 
 
 Allow a pint of red currant juice, prepared as 
 for red currant jelly, and three pounds of loaf 
 sugar to every four pounds of gooseberries. Put 
 bhe sugar and the juice into a preserving-pan, 
 and boil for iive minutes after the BUgar is dis- 
 solved. Add the gooseberries, and boil all 
 gently together for forty minutes. Pour out 
 the contents of the pan, and on the following 
 day put the berries into jars, boil the syrup for 
 a quarter of an hour, and pour it over the 
 fruit. Cover closely. Probable cost, 9d. per 
 pound jar. Sufficient for about four pounds. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY JAM, WHITE OR YELLOW. 
 
 Choose sound ripe gooseberries, which have 
 been gathered on a dry day. Pick off the tops 
 and stalks, and take equal weights of fruit and 
 sugar. Put the sugar into a preserving-pan, 
 with a cupful of water to every pound. Boil 
 for ten minutes, then add the fruit, and when 
 the berries have once boiled, simmer gently 
 until they are sufficiently cooked. This may 
 be ascertained in the usual way by putting a 
 little of the syrup on a plate, and, if it jellies 
 it is done enough. Pour into jars, cover 
 with brandied or oiled paper, and tissue- 
 paper dipped either in gum-water or the 
 unbeaten white of an egg. Time, three- 
 quarter^ of an hour to boil the fruit. Suf- 
 ficient, a pint and a half of fruit for a pound 
 of jam. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY JELLY. 
 
 Choose ripe, and perfectly sound gooseberries, 
 gathered on a dry day. Pick them, put them 
 into a preserving-pan, and simmer them gently 
 until they yield their juice readily. Strain 
 them through a sieve, and afterwards through a 
 jelly-bag, _ but on no account squeeze the fruit. 
 a left m'oist the gooseberries may, with the 
 addition of some sugar and a few red currants, 
 be made into jam, for puddings, etc. Weigh 
 the juice, boil it quickly for a quarter of an 
 hour, then add three pounds of pounded loaf 
 sugar to every four pounds of juice. When the 
 sugar is dissolved, boil together for five min- 
 utes, then pour into jars, and cover securely. 
 It is a great improvement to add a pound of 
 red or white currant juice to every three, pounds 
 of gooseberry juice. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY JELLV, GREEN. 
 
 Cut off the tops and stalks from some ripe 
 gooseberries. Put them into a preserving-pan, 
 with three-quarters of a pint of water to every 
 pound of fruit, and simmer gently until they 
 are well broken. Strain through a jelly-bag, 
 without squeezing the fruit. Weigh the juice, 
 and boil it rapidly for a quarter of an hour. 
 Mix with it an equal weight of loaf sugar, and 
 boil together until it will stiffen. Skim care- 
 fully, and pour into jars. Probable cost, 9d. 
 per half-pound jar. Sufficient, a pound of 
 gooseberries will give on an average nearly 
 three-quarters of a pint of jelly. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY LIQUEUR. 
 
 Braise five quarts of ripe gooseberries, blanch 
 and cut up a quarter of a pound of bitter and a 
 
 quarter of a pound of sweet almonds, bruise 
 half a tea-spoonful of cinnamon and the same 
 of mace, and add to the gooseberries. Dissolve 
 six pounds of lump sugar in two gallons of 
 gin, whisky, or brandy; stir all together, and 
 leave for two or three months; then strain and 
 bottle. It may be drunk in a month's time, 
 but improves by keeping. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY PUDDING, BAKED. 
 
 Pick the heads and stalks off the gooseberries, 
 and put the berries into a jar. Place this jar 
 in a saucepan of water, and let it boil until the 
 fruit is soft enough to pulp. Press it through 
 a sieve, and to every pint of pulp add an ounce 
 and a half of fresh butter, four ounces of finely- 
 grated bread-crumbs, a quarter of a pound of 
 sugar, and three well-beaten eggs. The latter 
 should not be added until the pudding is cool. 
 Pour the mixture into a buttered dish, and bake 
 in a moderate oven. Strew sifted sugar over 
 the pudding before serving. It may be eaten 
 either hot or cold. If a richer pudding is re- 
 quired. Savoy biscuits (see Savot Biscuits) may 
 be substituted for the bread-crumbs, and the 
 edge of the dish may be lined with puff paste. 
 Time, about half an hour to bake. Probable 
 cost, lOd., if made with bread. Sufficient for 
 five persons. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY SAUCE, FOR MACKEREL. 
 
 Cut the tops and stalks from half a pint of 
 green gooseberries. Boil them until tender, 
 press them through a sieve, and mix them with 
 half a pint of melted butter. Various season- 
 ings are used for this sauce — such as grated 
 ginger, or grated lemon-rind, grated nutmeg, a 
 little pounded sugar, or cayenne pepper. A 
 wine-glassful of sorrel or spinach-juice is a de- 
 cided improvement. The gooseberries are 
 often sent to table mashed and flavoured, with- 
 out being mixed with the melted butter. Time, 
 about forty minutes to prepare. Sufficient for 
 a pint of sauce. Probable cost, 4d. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY SOUFFLE (a pretty supper dish). 
 
 Pick the gooseberries, and boil them with a 
 liberal allowance of sugar until tender. Press 
 them through a coarse sieve, and put the pulp 
 into a glass dish. Let it grow cold, then pour 
 over it a good custard. This may be made with 
 the yolks of eggs, and the whites may be beaten 
 till firm and cooked as described under the 
 heading. Eggs as Snovt. The appearance is 
 improved by colouring half the white of egg 
 with a few drops of cochineal. Time, about 
 three-quarters of an hour to boil- a quart of 
 gooseberries till they are tender. Sufficient, a 
 quart of gooseberries and a pint and a half of 
 custard for six or eight persons. Probable cost. 
 Is. 4d. 
 GOOSEBERRY TART. 
 
 Pick off the tops and stalks of the goose- 
 berries. Put them into a pie-dish, pile them 
 high in the centre, strew a little sugar over 
 them, and add a- table-spoonful of water. Line 
 the edge of the dish with a good crust, put on 
 the cover, and bake in a brisk oven. Strew a 
 little powdered sugar over before sending the 
 tart to table. A little cream or custard is a 
 great improvement to this dish. An ample 
 allowance of sugar is required for gooseberries. 
 
GOO 
 
 265 
 
 GOU 
 
 especially when they are only partially ripe. 
 Two pints and a half of gooseberries will make a 
 pie for four or five persons. Probable cost, 9d. 
 Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY TRIFLE. 
 
 Cut a quarter of a pound of Savoy cakes (see 
 Savoy Cakes) into thin slices, and place them 
 at the bottom of a deep glass dish. Pour over 
 them a little sherry, brandy, or whiskey, and 
 let them soak until soft. Boil half a pint of 
 water with a pound of loaf sugar for ten min- 
 utes. Put in a pint and a half of green goose- 
 berries, picked, washed, and drained. Let them 
 boil till they are tender, but xmbroken, and, 
 when cool, place them on the Savoy cake. 
 Make a pint and a half of good plain custard, 
 nicely flavoured with lemon or vanilla. Pour 
 it over the gooseberries, and ornament with a 
 little whipped cream, or the beaten white of 
 egg. Time, about an hour and a half to pre- 
 pare. This dish is better made three or four 
 hours before it is wanted. Sufficient for a 
 supper dish foi six or eight persons. Probable 
 cost, about Is. 8d., exclusive of the wine or 
 brandy. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY TURNOVERS. 
 
 Make some good light crust. Roll it out 
 two or three times, then leave it a quarter of 
 an inch in thickness. Stamp it out in rounds 
 with a cup, plate, or small basin, and lay a 
 few gooseberries, which have been stewed with 
 sugar, on one half of each round. Turn the 
 other half over the fruit, fasten the edges 
 securely, and bake on buttered tins in a mode- 
 rate oven. Serve on a napkin, with sifted sugar. 
 Time, about a quarter of an hour to bake. 
 Probable cost. Id. each. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY VINEGAR (excellent for pickling). 
 
 Pick and bruise a quart of ripe gooseberries. 
 Put them into a bowl, and mix with them three 
 quarts of spring water which has been boiled 
 and grown cold. Let them remain for two 
 days, stirring frequently; then strain, and add 
 two pounds of sifted sugar to each gallon of 
 liquid. Put tUs into a cask, and with it a 
 piece of toasted bread, dipped in yeast. Put a 
 piece of muslin over the bunghole, to keep out 
 the flies, and set it in a warm place, but not in 
 the sun. The vinegar may be bottled in nine 
 months. Probable cost. Is. 2d. per gallon. 
 Sufficient for a quart of vinegar. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY WATER. 
 
 Bruise the fruit, and press out the juice 
 through a coarse sieve. Mix with it an equal 
 quantity of water. Boil and filter the liquid. 
 Sweeten' it according to taste, and add a, little 
 lemon-juice. This will be a refreshing and 
 agreeable beverage, if not made too sweet, which 
 is a common fault. The exact amount of sugar 
 required cannot be given, as it depends upon 
 the acidity of the fruit. Time, a quarter of an 
 hour to prepare. Probable cost, 4d. per quart. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY WINE, EFFERVESCING. 
 
 Cut the tops and stalks from some sound 
 green gooseberries ; bruise them thoroughly, and 
 add a quart of cold spring water for every pound 
 of fruit. Leave them for three or four days, 
 stirring frequently. Strain through a sieve. 
 
 and add three pounds of loaf sugar to every 
 gallon of liquid. When the sugar is dissolved, 
 put the liquid into a cask, with a bottle of gin 
 and a quarter of an ounce of isinglass to every 
 five gallons of wine. It will, in all probability, 
 be ready to bottle in six months; but if not 
 quite clear it must remain longer. The goose- 
 berries should be taken when fully grown, be- 
 fore they begin to turn ripe. Probable cost. 
 Is. 8d. per gallon, exclusive of the spirit. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY WINE, STILL. 
 
 Pick and bruise the fruit, and put it in a 
 large tub. Let it stand twenty-four hours, then 
 drain off the juice, and add a quart of lukewarm 
 water to every gallon of gooseberries. Let this 
 stand twelve hours. Mix the water with the 
 juice, and add twelve pounds of loaf sugar to 
 five gallons of liquid. Let it ferment well. 
 The temperature should be in proportion to the 
 ripeness of the fruit. If necessary, the liquid 
 should be placed near the fire. In two or three 
 days it will be ready for the cask. Put it into 
 the barrel with two quarts of brandy to five gal- 
 lons of liquid. Bung it well. To be in perfec- 
 tion, gooseberry wine should not be bottledfor 
 five years; but, if required, it may be used at 
 the end of twelve months. Probable cost. 
 Is. 8d. per gallon, exclusive of the brandy. 
 GOULACHE. 
 
 This is an excellent Hungarian dish, which ia 
 variously spelled goulache, goulash, guillash, 
 guUasch, or gulias-hus. Remove the skins and 
 fat from one pound of lean sirloin or rib of 
 beef, and cut it into small dice. Wash and 
 peel two small potatoes, and cut them also 
 into dice, together with four ounces of bacon. 
 Tie a tea-spoonful of caraway-seeds in a muslin 
 bag. Melt four ounces of butter in a stewpan ; 
 when hot, add half an onion finely chopped, 
 and fry just long enough to slightly colour. 
 Add the pieces of beef, season with salt and 
 pepper, and let them cook over a bright fire for 
 about ten minutes. Sprinkle in a dessert-spoon- 
 ful of flour, moisten with half a wine-glassful 
 of Madeira, and a gill of stock, add the tied-up 
 caraway-seeds, and let all simmer slowly. Melt 
 four ounces of butter in a frying-pan, add the 
 bacon, and fry a little. Now add the potatoes, 
 and cook them slowly over the fire until of a 
 nice golden colour; pour ofE the superfluous fat, 
 mix with the meat, cover over and allow to 
 simmer gently until the meat and potatoes are 
 quite done. Stir from time to time, being care- 
 ful not to break the potato dice, remove the 
 caraway-seeds, dish-up on a hot dish, and serve 
 very hot. Coarsely minced apples are some- 
 times added and cooked with the meat. Prob- 
 able cost, 2s. 6d. 
 GOURKHA SOUP. 
 
 Cut a large onion into thin rings, chop two 
 cloves of garlic very fine, and fry both a golden 
 brown in two ounces of salted butter, along 
 with twenty-four cloves and twenty-four pep- 
 percorns. Add a tea-spoonful of curry-powder, 
 and two quarts of strong stock, and stir all 
 together. Then add one pound of tomatoes 
 sliced, three bay-leaves, and salt to taste, stir- 
 ring the whole time. Let the mixture simmer 
 gently for at least two hours, then strain 
 through a wire sieve, allowing as much of the 
 
GRA 
 
 266 
 
 GRA 
 
 pulp as possible to pass through into the 
 liquor. Serve with fried bread cut into dice. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 
 
 GRANITO CLARET. 
 
 Put the thin rind of two oranges in half a pint 
 of water. Let it soak for two hours, strain it, 
 and boil the water with half a pound of sugar 
 to a, clear syrup. Add the strained juice of six 
 oranges, a cupful of water, and a pint bottle of 
 claret. Put the n^ixture into wide-mouthed 
 bottles, cork them, and move them round in the 
 ice. As the mixture freezes it should be loos- 
 ened from the sides of the bottles, and then 
 put into claret-glasses. Sufficient for two pints 
 and a half. 
 
 GRANITO PUNCH, ICED. 
 
 Bub the yellow rind of an orange and of half 
 a lemon upon two or three lumps of sugar. 
 Mix with them three wine-glassfuls of green tea, 
 and the same of brandy, rum, syrup, mara- 
 schino, and pineapple syrup. Add the juice of 
 two lemons, the juice of an orange, and a pint 
 bottle of champagne. When well mixed, freeze 
 as usual, and serve in glasses. Time, about half 
 an hour to prepare. Sufficient for a quart. 
 
 GRANITO, ROMAN. 
 
 Mix a pint and a half of strong coffee with a 
 pint and a half of syrup. Strain through a.silk 
 sieve into wide-mouthed decanters, and freeze 
 as directed in the recipe for granito claret. 
 Serve in coffee-cups or glasses. Sufficient for 
 three pints. 
 
 GRAPE. 
 
 The grape is a fruit which ' is grown exten- 
 sively in France, Spain, and Italy, and made 
 into wine. The kinds gro^vn-in this country are 
 chiefly used for dessert, and are particularly 
 welcome in cases of illness, being both refresh- 
 ing and wholesome. The best way to keep them 
 is; to pick out all that are in the least decayed, 
 and to pass a thread through the stalk of each 
 bunch, then seal the end of the stalk, to keep 
 it from drying, and place the fruit gently in a 
 bag, made of thin paper. The mouth of the 
 bag should then be closed, and secured with 
 string. The f rapes should be hung up by the 
 thread to the ceiling of a cool room, ajnd pre- 
 served at as low a temperature as possible until 
 required for use. 
 
 GRAPE, GREEN, MARMALADE. 
 
 , Pick the grapes, put them into a saucepan, 
 and barely cover them with boiling water. Let 
 them simmer for eight or ten minutes, but do 
 not let them break. Take them out, drain 
 them, let them cool, then press them through a 
 coarse sieve, and add a pound of loaf sugar to 
 every pound of pulp. Boil them gently for 
 twenty minutes, pour into jars, cover with 
 brandied and gummed paper, and keep in a 
 cool place. Sufficient, one pound of fruit for 
 one pound of jam. Probable cost. Is. 2d. per 
 pound. 
 
 GRAPE ISINGLASS JELLY. 
 
 Dissolve one ounce of isinglass or gelatine in 
 a cupful of water. Put a pound and a half of 
 ripe purple grapes into a saucepan. Bruise 
 them with the back of a wooden spoon until the 
 juice flows freely. Strain them, without pres- 
 
 sure, through two or three thicknesses of muslin, 
 and, when the juice is clear, boil it, with half a 
 pound of loaf sugar and the dissolved isinglass, 
 for ten minutes. Add two table-spoonfuls of 
 brandy, pour it into an oiled mould, and put it 
 into a cool place until firmly set. If the jelly is 
 not clear, it may be clarified in the usual way, 
 (.See Calf's Foot Jelly.) Probable cost, 2s. 6d., 
 exclusive of the brandy. 
 
 GRAPE JELLY. 
 
 Pick some purple grapes, put them into a 
 saucepan, and bruise, them gently until the 
 juice flows freely from them. Strain, without 
 squeezing them, two or three times through 
 thick muslin, and, when clear, boil the juice 
 rapidly for twenty minutes. Add a pound of 
 loaf sugar to each pound of juice, '.stir it until 
 dissolved, and boil till a little put on a plate 
 will set. Put the jelly into jars, and cover with 
 oiled or brandied paper, and afterwards with 
 gummed paper. Probable cost of grapeSj when 
 plentiful, lOd. or Is. per pound. A quart of 
 grapes should yield about one pint of juice. 
 
 GRAPES, PICKLED. 
 
 Pick the grapes from the stalks. Eeject any 
 that are unsound, and put them into a deep jar 
 with as much white-wine vinegar as will amply 
 cover them. Tie them down with a bladder, 
 and keep them in a cool, dry place. They will 
 be ready for use in a month. Pr-obable cost of 
 grapes, when plentiful, lOd. to Is. per pound. 
 
 GRAPES, TO PRESERVE. 
 
 Take four pounds of grapes before they are 
 fully ripe. Put them on the fire in a saucepan 
 of cold water, and let them remain until the 
 water nearly boils, then drain .them, and put 
 them into cold water. Boil four pounds of 
 sugar in two quarts of water, skim it carefully, 
 and, when cold, put the fruit in an enamelled 
 saucepan, pour the syrup over it, and let all 
 stand for twenty-four hours. Put the grapes on 
 the fire, heat them till the syrup is scalding 
 hot, and put them aside until the next day, 
 then drain off the syrup, and boil it gently for 
 twenty minutes. Pour it over the grapes, which 
 should be arranged in a clean saucepan, and 
 bring them once more to the point of boiling. 
 Put the preserve" into jars, and pour a little 
 dissolved apple jelly over it. Probable cost 
 of grapes, when plentiful, lOd. or Is-, per pound. 
 
 GRAPES, TO PRESERVE IN BRANDY (for winter 
 dessert). 
 Take some fine bunches of grapes. Look 
 them over carefully, to see that all are quite 
 sound, prick each grape in three places, and lay 
 them in deep earthen jars. Cover them with 
 white sugar-candy, crushed to » fine powder, 
 and fill up the jars with brandy. Cover the jars 
 securely with a bladder, and keep in a cool dry 
 place. 
 
 GRAPE WINE, SPARKLING. 
 
 Take the grapes before they are fully ripe, 
 put stalks and fruit into a convenient-sized tub, 
 delicately clean, bruise them until every berry 
 is broken, and to every pound of fruit add a 
 quart of cold water. Leave them for three days, 
 stirring them two or three times every day. 
 Strain and add three pounds and a quarter of 
 
GRA 
 
 2t'7 
 
 GRA 
 
 lump sugar to every gallon of liquid. When 
 this IS dissolved, put the wine at once into the 
 cask, which should be kept full to the bung. 
 It IS well to reserve half a gallon for the pur- 
 pose of filling it up as the fermentation sub- 
 sides. In ten days add one pint of brandy and 
 a quarter of an ounce of isinglass to every five 
 gallons of wine. Keep the cask in a cool cellar. 
 The wine should be bottled in champagne bot- 
 tles when the vines are in bloom the following 
 summer, and the corks must be wired down. 
 Time, a fortnight to make. Probable cost, 4s. 
 per gallon, exclusive of the brandy. 
 CRATIN. 
 
 Gratin is a French forcemeat. It may be 
 made either of the lean part of veal or the 
 breast and wings cf aiowl. Taie a calf's udder, 
 and boil it gently, with as much water as will 
 cover it, until sufficiently cooked. Let it cool, 
 cut away all the upper- part, and divide the rest 
 into small pieces, which must be pounded in a 
 mortar until they can be passed through a 
 coarse sieve. Take equal parts of veal and 
 cooked liver, cut them into small pieces, and 
 put them in a saucepan with a little salt and 
 pepper, and a table-spoonful of savoury herbs, 
 powdered. Fry them in a little butter for ten 
 minutes, then mince finely, and pound the meat 
 until perfectly smooth, with half the quantity of 
 veal udder. If necessary, butter may be sub- 
 stituted for the udder. Pound all thoroughly, 
 and, whilst pounding, add three raw egea at 
 different times. Make up a small ball of the 
 forcemeat, and throw it into boiling water, to 
 try whether it is light and properly seasoned. 
 If it be too firm, add a little water ; if too soft, 
 another egg. Probable cost of veal. Is. per 
 pound. The term " au gratin " is applied to 
 certain dishes, covered with sauce and bread- 
 crumbs, and browned in the oven, which are 
 generally served in, the earthenware utensils in 
 which they have been baked or otherwise cooked. 
 
 GRAVY. 
 
 Gravies should never be at variance in flavour 
 with the dishes which they are to accompany, 
 and in nothing is the skill and judgment of a 
 good cook so much displayed as in their man- 
 agement. They may be made a source of un- 
 ceasing expense, or be amply supplied at a 
 merely nominal cost, and in moderate house- 
 holds ought certainly to be made from the bones 
 and trimmings of the joints themselves. FulJ 
 directions are given in this work for almost 
 every gravy that can be required in domestic 
 cookery, but, as a general rule, it should be 
 remembered that the gravy of the meat to be 
 used is always most suitable to send to table 
 with it. The bones dressed and undressed, the 
 trimmings of meat and the necks and feet of 
 poultry and game should be carefully preserved, 
 and used for making gravy. When these are 
 not sufficient, fresh meat or fresh bones must 
 be used— the fresher the better. All super- 
 fluous fat should be removed before stewing, 
 and the gravy kept in a cool, dry place, in an 
 earthen pan. Long simmering is required to 
 extract the full flavour of the meat ; and if any 
 fat is in the gravy after boiling, it is better left 
 on until the gravy is required. Gravy should 
 be sent to table hot, and in a tureen, with a 
 
 very small quantity in the dish with the meat. 
 Nothing can be more unpleasant than for the 
 carver to find that whilst performing his duties 
 he has bespattered those of his friends who, un- 
 fortunately for themselves, were placed near 
 him; and if he is fortunate to avoid doing 
 this, 'his own person very often bears the 
 marks of the gravy, of which there was too 
 much on the dish before him. 
 
 Good gravy may be made from the skirts 
 and kidney of beef, the shank bones of mutton, 
 previously soaked, the knuckle of veal or mut- 
 ton, the shin of beef, a cow-heel, or the liquid 
 in which meat has been boiled. Brown made 
 dishes require savoury gravies, white dishes 
 delicately flavoured ones. Where the flavour of 
 onions is too strong in gravies, it may be 
 lessened by boiling a turnip in it for a little 
 while. When lean meat is to be made into 
 gravy it should be beaten and scored before 
 stewing. For thickening gravies to serve with 
 roast meats use crumbs of bread. Gravy 
 thickened thus is very palatable and browns 
 readily. A nice gravy to serve with boiled fowl 
 or chicken is made with one cupful of milk, 
 a table-spoonful of flour, and a little of the 
 liquor in which the fowl was boiled. Butter 
 and hot water thickened with flour will make 
 a good sauce, and is admirable for serving with 
 stewed chicken.^sThe giblets of ducks, geese, 
 and fowls should be stewed for gravy. 
 GRAVY AND EGGS. 
 
 {See. Ebgs and Gbavt.) 
 
 GRAVY, BEEF, CLEAR. 
 
 Cut two pounds of the shin of beef into small 
 pieces, and fry these over a clear fire until 
 lightly browned, but take care they do not burn. 
 Pour over them a, quart of boiling water, skim 
 thoroughly, and simmer for half an hour. Then 
 add a salt-.spoonful of salt, a large onion, sliced 
 and fried, a bunch of parsley and thyme, two 
 cloves, and six or eight peppercorns. Simmer 
 gently for two hours. Strain, and put it aside 
 for use. Remove the fat from the top before 
 heating it. Sufficient for a pint and a half of 
 gravy. Probable cos^. Is. 
 
 GRAVY, BEEF, FOR POULTRY AND GAME. 
 
 Cut one pound of coarse beef into small pieces, 
 and put these into a saucepan with a salt-spoon- 
 ful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of pepper, a 
 shallot, and a pint of cold water. Simmer 
 gently by the side of the fire for two hours and 
 a half, then strain, add one table-epoonful of 
 mushroom ketchup, and thicken with a tea- 
 spoonful of arrowroot mixed with a little cold 
 water. Boil once more, and serve as hot as 
 possible. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for one 
 pint of gravy. 
 
 GRAVY, BEEF, PLAIN. 
 
 Cut some coarse pieces of beef into dice, 
 strew a little salt over them, and put them in 
 a closely-covered saucepan, by the side of a 
 gentle fire, until the juice flows from the meat 
 and glazes at the bottom of the pan. Pour in 
 as much boiling stock or water as will cover 
 the meat, and simmer gently for an hour and a 
 half. Probable cost of beef, 8d. per pound. 
 Sufficient, half a pound of beef for a pint of 
 gravy. 
 
GRA 
 
 268 
 
 GRA 
 
 GRAVY, BROWN, CHEAP AND GOOD. 
 
 Toast a slice of bread on both sides until hard 
 and darkly browned, but not burnt. Cut two 
 large onions into thin slices, fry them in a 
 little dripping or butter till brightly browned, 
 and pour over them a quart of boiling water or 
 stock. Put in the toast, and any trimmings of 
 meat, or poultry, or bones from dressed joints, 
 chopped into small pieces, that are to be had, 
 with a bunch of savoury herbs. Simmer gently 
 until the gravy is thick and good. Strain, add 
 salt and pepper, and a table-spoonful of mush- 
 room ketchup, and put aside for use. Time, 
 about three hours to simmer. Probable cost, 
 4d., exclusive of the bones. Sufficient for one 
 pint of gravy. 
 
 GRAVY, BROWN, ROUX FOR THICKENING. 
 
 Put a quarter of a pound of fresh butter into 
 a scrupulously clean saucepan, melt it slowly, 
 and add very gradually half a pound of flour. 
 The flour should be shaken in from a dredging- 
 box, and stirred with a wooden spoon until the 
 roux is perfectly smooth and a bright brown 
 colour. The edge of the spoon should be 
 pressed rather heavily on the bottom of the 
 saucepan, to prevent burning, which would cer- 
 tainly spoil the roux. Though this thickening 
 is best when freshly made, it will keep for a 
 long time if poured into jars, and the surface 
 kept entire. It is an improvement to make it 
 with browned flour — that is, flour which has 
 been kept in a slow oven until it is lightly 
 browned all through. When this is used, the 
 roux need not be so long on the flre. It may 
 be used with either hot or cold gravy. If the 
 gravy be hot, the roux should be moistened 
 gradually with it off the fire ; if cold, it should 
 be stirred on the fire till the gravy boils. Time, 
 about an hour and a half. Probable cost, 6d. 
 A dessert-spoonful of roux will thicken a pint of 
 gravy. 
 
 GRAVY, BROWN, SOUP (made from bones and 
 trimmings). 
 Take the bones of roast meat — beef is the 
 best — which weighed before cooking about 
 twelve pounds. Break them up into small 
 pieces, and put these into a saucepan, with five 
 quarte of cold water. Bring the liquid to a 
 boil, skim carefully, and simmer gently, but 
 continuously, for six hours. Strain through 
 a sieve, and leave the soup until the next day. 
 Remove the fat from the top, leave any sedi- 
 ment there may be at the bottom, and pour the 
 soup gently into a clean saucepan, with two 
 carrots, one turnip, three onions, all sliced, a 
 head of celery, or a salt-spoonful of pounded 
 celery-seed, tied in muslin, a bundle of sweet 
 herbs, and eight peppercorns. Bring it to a 
 boil, skim it carefully, and add a dessert-spoon- 
 ful of salt, which will assist the scum in rising. 
 Draw it to the side of the fire, and simmer 
 gently for two hours. Strain it two or three 
 times, and, to clear it, stir into it when hot the 
 whites of two eggs whisked thoroughly, and 
 mixed with four tea-spoonfuls of cold water, 
 and afterwards with a little of the soup. Beat 
 this into the soup over the fire, and keep whisk- 
 ing till it boils. Skim carefully till it is quite 
 clear. Add three table-spoonfuls of Bovril, and, 
 if necessary, a little browning (see Beownino), 
 
 but great care must be taken with this, or the 
 flavour of the soup will be spoilt. This is a 
 wholesome, nourishing, and cheap soup, which 
 costs 4d. per quart, and though it cannot be said 
 to be quite equal to one which costs Is. 4d., 
 yet, if the directions are closely followed, the 
 result will be decidedly satisfactory. 
 
 GRAVY, BROWN, SOUP (made from fresh meat). 
 
 Take half a pound of lean ham, two pounds of 
 the shin of beef, and two pounds of veal. Cut 
 the meat from the bones, break the latter into 
 small pieces, and, if there be any marrow, lay it 
 at the bottom of a deep saucepan. If there be 
 no marrow, use a quarter of a pound of butter. 
 Put in the meat (which should be cut up) and 
 bones, cover closely, and place the saucepan 
 on the fire. When well browned on one side, 
 turn the meat over on the other, and take care 
 it does not burn. When the meat is thoroughly 
 browned, add a pint of cold water to draw out 
 the juice. In a quarter of an hour add three 
 quarts of boiling water, with two carrots, one 
 turnip, three or four onions, all sliced, a head 
 of celery, or a salt-spoonful of pounded celery- 
 seed, tied in muslin, a bunch of sweet herbs, 
 and a dozen peppercorns. Bring the soup to a 
 boil, remove the scum carefully as it rises, and 
 add two tea-spoonfuls of salt, which will assist 
 it in rising. When well skimmed, draw the 
 saucepan to the side of the fire, and let its con- 
 tents simmer gently, but continuously, for four 
 hours. Take it off, and strain the soup through 
 a jelly-bag. Let it stand until the next day. 
 Lift the fat off the top in a cake, and, when 
 pouring the soup off to warm, be careful not to 
 disturb the sediment. Strain it again, if neces- 
 sary; but if the directions have been followed, 
 the soup will be clear and bright, with a brown 
 tinge. It will keep better if vegetables are 
 not boiled with it until it is about to be used. 
 This soup forms the basis of all other kinds. If 
 through any mischance it should not be clear, 
 see directions for Clarifting Geayt. It is 
 better made the day before it is wanted, so that 
 the fat can be entirely removed. Probable cost. 
 Is. 4d. per quart. Sufficient for three quarts of 
 soup. 
 
 GRAVY, COLOURING AND FLAVOURING. 
 
 In colouring gravies the same directions may 
 be followed which have been given for colour- 
 ing soups (see Coloueing). When this is done, 
 however, caTe must be taken that the flavour 
 given by it is not sufficiently strong to be de- 
 tected. When gravy is made from stock, all 
 danger of this may be removed by combining 
 the colouring and flavouring. Prepare the 
 stock separately. Set it aside, and put a piece 
 of butter about the size of a walnut into a 
 saucepan, with two ounces of uncooked lean 
 ham, chopped small, a shallot, finely minced, a 
 sprig of thyme or marjoram, a sprig of parsley, 
 and three cloves. Cover the pan closely, and 
 let these stew slowly for half an hour. Shake 
 the pan several times to prevent the meat burn- 
 ing, and when the contents of the pan are 
 brightly browned, add three-quarters of a pint 
 of unflavoured stock. Boil all together another 
 half-hour, thicken, if necessary, with a tea- 
 spoonful of flour, add salt and pepper, and 
 strain before serving. Probable cost, 4d., ex- 
 
GRA 
 
 269 
 
 GRA 
 
 elusive of the stock. Sufficient for nearly three- 
 quarters of a pint of gravy. 
 
 GRAVY, COW-HEEL (clear). 
 
 Put a cow-heel, which has been scalded and 
 properly prepared, but not boiled, into a sauce- 
 pan, with an onion, a Bprig of thyme, a blade 
 of mace, half a dozen peppercorns, and three 
 pints of cold water. Skim it carefully, and, 
 when the scum ceases to rise, cover the pan 
 closely, and simmer gently by the side of the 
 fire for three hours. Strain carefully, and put 
 aside until cold; remove the fat from the top, 
 and pour off the gravy, being careful to leave 
 the sediment undisturbed. Probable cost, one 
 cow-heel, 6d. Sufficient for a pint and a half 
 of gravy. 
 
 GRAVY, EGGS POACHED IN. 
 
 (See EaGs Poached in Geavy.) 
 
 GRAVY, ENGLISH, BROWN. 
 
 Cut six ounces of lean ham into square pieces, 
 and fry a nice brown. When done, remove them 
 from the frying-pan into a stewpau. Then fry 
 two pounds of neck or shin of beef, lightly 
 floured, also a middle-sized onion, or two or 
 three shallots. Place them all together in the 
 stewpan with the ham, and cover with about 
 two pints of stock ; skim as the liquid boils, and 
 add salt, a few cloves, peppercorns, a blade of 
 mace, a small bunch of herbs, a carrot, and a 
 head of celery. Let all boil till reduced in quan- 
 tity to one-half; then strain, and when quite 
 cold, take off the fat. When required, heat the 
 gravy again, and flavour with the sauce best 
 adapted to the dish for which it is intended. If 
 the gravy be properly boiled, it will be thick 
 enough. Half this quantity is sufficient at a 
 time, and careful housekeepers would reduce 
 the quantity of meat. Time, from three to four 
 hours. Probable cost of beef, about 8d. per 
 pound. Sufficient for one pint of gravy. 
 
 GRAVY ESPAGNOLE (a highly-fTavoured brown 
 gravy). 
 As this gravy will keep good for three or four 
 days, and is frequently required in domestic 
 cookery, it is well to make more than will be 
 used at one time, and put it aside until wanted. 
 It should be looked at every day, and will keep 
 longer if it is boiled occasionally. Put a piece 
 of butter the size of a large egg into a stewpan, 
 and, when it is melted, place on it a moderate- 
 sized onion, cut into slices. Turn these over 
 until they are lightly browned, then add a 
 quarter of a pound of the lean of ham or bacon 
 cut into dice (uncooked), a large carrot, scraped 
 or out into small pieces, two sprigs of parsley, 
 one of thyme, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of 
 finely-chopped lemon-rind, a dozen peppercorns, 
 a blade of mace, and a bay-leaf. Pour in a cup- 
 ful of cold water and shake the pan, or stir it 
 occasionally, over a moderate fire for a quarter 
 of an hour until the ingredients are brightly 
 browned. Add very gradually a pint of good 
 stock, and simmer gently for three-quarters of 
 of an hour. Strain, skim off the fat, and the 
 gravy will be ready for use. Salt must be added 
 if necessary, but this will depend upon the salt- 
 uess of the ham. When no stock is at hand, 
 half a pound of lean beef may be cut into small 
 squares and fried with the rest, but when this 
 
 is done a pint and a half of water should 
 be added, and the gravy simmered an 
 hour and a half. Another plan is to 
 dissolve half a tea-spoonful of Bovril in 
 the gravy. If a rich gravy is required, a glass 
 of sherry or Madeira and a table-spoonful of 
 ketchup may be put into the saucepan a few 
 minutes before it is taken from the fire. To 
 thicken the gravy, dissolve an ounce of butter 
 in a saucepan, mix with it an ounce of flour, 
 and stir it with a wooden spoon until brightly 
 browned, add gradually the strained gravy, and 
 boil. Sufficient for nearly a pint of gravy. 
 Probable cost, 8d. per pint. 
 
 GRAVY ESPAGNOLE, MADE WITHOUT MEAT. 
 
 Cut two large onions into thick slices, and fry 
 them in an ounce and a half of butter until 
 brightly browned. Put with them a scraped 
 carrot, two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, -a 
 quarter of a tea-spoonful of chopped lemon- 
 rind, a bay-leaf, three or four cloves, a table- 
 spoonful of mushroom ketchup,- half a tea- 
 spoonful of ■ anchovy essence, a thick crust of 
 bread, toasted brown and hard, but not burnt, 
 six peppercorns, and half a salt-spoonful of 
 salt. Pour over these ingredients a breakfast- 
 cupful of water and a breakfast-cupful of beer. 
 Simmer gently for half an hour, strain, and 
 serve. Thicken v^th flour and butter,, if re- 
 quired. Probable cost, 5d. Sufficient for a 
 pint of gravy. 
 
 GRAVY, ESSENCE OF HAM FOR. 
 
 A ham bone is always considered a valuable 
 addition to the stock-pot, but it may be used to 
 greater advantage by making of it an essence 
 with which to flavour sauces and gravies. Cut 
 from it very carefully all the little pieces of 
 meat. Pound these in a mortar, and put them 
 into a saucepan with the bone broken small, a 
 dozen peppercorns, a bunch of thyme and para- 
 ley, and a pint and a half of good beef stock. 
 Simmer gently by the side of the fire for a 
 couple of hours, or until the flavour is thor- 
 oughly extracted. Put the liquid into a bottle, 
 and set aside for use. Probable cost, about 3d., 
 exclusive of the ham bone. Sufficient for a pint 
 of essence. 
 
 GRAVY FOR BAKED FISH. 
 
 After the fish is cooked, remove it from the 
 baking-dish, and put it on a hot dish ; pour the 
 fr.t from the baking-tin into a saucepan, and 
 add a little browned flour. Then pour in water 
 or stock from the fish-trimmings, with enough 
 Bovril to colour and flavour it well. Add a 
 spoonful of Worcester, tomato, or any other 
 approved sauce or ketchup. Boil up and strain 
 round the fish. Vinegar from bottled capers, 
 with a tea-spoonful of chopped capers in addi- 
 tion, provides an alternative flavouring which 
 will be generally liked. 
 
 GRAVY FOR BOILED MEAT. 
 
 Boiled meat is usually sent to table with a 
 little of the liquid in which the meat was 
 cooked. When a variation is desired, half a 
 pint of the liquid may be thickened with a little 
 flour and butter, and flavoured with a table- 
 spoonful of finely-chopped pickled gherkins or 
 walnuts, and a dessert-spoonful of minced 
 parsley. A tea-spoonful of mustard mixed with 
 
GRA 
 
 270 
 
 GRA 
 
 a small quantity of vinegar may then be added. 
 This sauce should, of course, be served in a 
 tureen, not put on the same dish as the 
 meat. Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable 
 cost, 3d. Sufficient, half a pint for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 GRAVY FOR CURRIED FISH. 
 
 Melt a piece of butter the size of a small egg 
 in a saucepan, and fry two sliced onions in it 
 until lightly browned^ Drain them from the 
 fat, and mix with them a pint and a half of 
 good stock, and, if the flavour is liked, two 
 sharp apples, pared and cored. Simmer gently 
 until the onions are sufficiently tender to be 
 pressed through a sieve, and, after this has 
 been done, boil once more, thicken the gravy 
 with a table-spoonful of flour and a table-spoon- 
 ful of curry-powder, mixed with a little cold 
 water, and add a pinch of salt. Boil for half 
 an hour, and just before serving add two table- 
 spoonfuls of good cream. Time, an hour and a 
 quarter. Probable cost, 5d. Sufficient for a 
 pint and a half of gravy. 
 
 GRAVY FOR CUTLETS. 
 
 Put a piece of butter the size of a walnut into 
 a saucepan, and, when melted, fry two sliced 
 onions in it until they are lightly browned. Add 
 gradually one pint of good stock, half a dozen 
 peppercorns, two sprigs of pSrsley,^tifee or four 
 cloves, and a crust of bread toasted brown and' 
 hard on both sides, but not burnt. Simmer 
 gently for one hour, then strain, and thicken 
 the gravy with a little butter and flour. Add 
 salt to taste, and a table-spoonful of mushroom 
 or walnut ketchup. A little browning may be 
 added, if necessary. If no stock is at hand, a 
 tea-spoonful of Bovril may be diluted with 
 some warm water and used instead. Prob- 
 able cost, 4d. Sufficient for nearly a pint of 
 gravy. 
 
 GRAVY FOR CUTLETS (another way). 
 
 After the cutlets have been fried, lift them 
 out of the pan, and put them in the oven on a 
 hot dish. Mix a table-spoonful of flour very 
 smoothly with a table-spoonful of the fat from 
 the cutlets, and stir it over the flre with a 
 wooden spoon till it is lightly browned; add 
 half a pint of boiling water, a little salt and 
 pepper, and a table-spoonful of Harvey's sauce, 
 or ketchup, or a table-spoonful of finely-minced 
 gherkins, walnuts, capers, or any favourite 
 pickle. When a rich sauce is wanted, a wine- 
 glassful of port may be added. Serve in a 
 tureen. Time, five minutes. Probable cost, 
 3d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for one 
 pound of cutlets. 
 
 GRAVY FOR DUCKS. 
 
 Put the giblets into a stewpan with a large 
 onion, two or three sage-leaves, a salt-spoonful 
 of salt, half a salt-spoonful of pepper, and two 
 pints of stock. Simmer gently for two hours. 
 Strain the gravy, thicken it with a table-spoon- 
 ful of flour, mixed smoothly with a little cold 
 water, boil once more for a quarter of an hour, 
 and serve in a tureen. A glass of port or claret 
 is an improvement. Probable cost, 2d., exclu- 
 sive of the wine. Sufficient for a pint and a 
 half of gravy. (See also Geavt for Goose or 
 Duck.) 
 
 GRAVY FOR FISH PIES, ETC. 
 
 Take any common fish that you may have, or 
 can easily obtain, such as eels, flounders, or 
 pike, or a mixture of one or two kinds. Cut 
 them into small pieces, and put them into a 
 stewpan. To two pounds of flsh put a pint and 
 a half of water, a little pepper and salt, two or 
 three bunches of parsley, a sprig of marjoram, 
 and the same of thyme, a blade of mace, and a 
 crust of bread, toasted till brown and hard. 
 Simmer gently for an hour or more, then strain ; 
 thicken the gravy with a little flour and butter, 
 and a tea-spoonful of anchovy essence, or two 
 or three anchovies pounded. If brown gravy is 
 wanted, the fish must be fried before it is 
 stewed. The probable cost depends upon the 
 price of the fish, which is very fluctuating. Suf- 
 ficient for a little more than a pint of gravy. 
 
 GRAVY FOR FOWLS, CHEAP. 
 
 Take two ounces of lean ham, cut it into 
 dice, and fry them in a very little butter until 
 brightly browned. Pour over them gradually 
 half a pint of stock, and add six peppercorns, a 
 bunch of parsley, a bay-leaf, and half a slice of 
 bread, toasted brown and hard, but not burnt. 
 Simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour, 
 strain, add a pinch of salt, if necessary, and 
 serve as hot as possible. Probable cost, 4d. 
 (See Gravy Made 'Withoxtt Meat fob Fowls.) 
 
 GRAVY FOR GAME. 
 
 Melt a piece of butter the size of a small egg 
 in a saucepan, and mix with it very smoothly a 
 table-spoonful of flour. When lightly browned, 
 add a cupful of good stock, half a tea-spoonful 
 of mixed mustard, a tiny pinch of cayenne, as 
 much powdered mace as will stand on the point 
 of a knife, and a dessert-spoonful of lemonr 
 juice. Boil for twenty minutes. Add a wine- 
 glassful of sherry, and serve in a tureen. Prob- 
 able cost, 3d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient 
 for half a pint of gravy. 
 
 GRAVY FOR GAME PIE. 
 
 Break the carcases of the birds and put them 
 in a stewpan with the trimmings of the veal 
 and bacon used in the pie, an onion stuck with 
 two cloves, a carrot., sliced, four peppercorns, a 
 few sticks of celery, a bunch of herbs, half a 
 pint of water, and a wine-glassful of Madeira. 
 Set this over a moderate fire, and shake the 
 pan several times ; let the liquor reduce to barely 
 half the quantity, but be careful it does not 
 burn. Add a pint and a half of light stock, 
 bring up to boiling point, skim, remove to the 
 side of the fire, and simmer for two hours. 
 Strain the gravy, rinse and wipe the stewpan, 
 and return the liquor to it. Dissolve in it a 
 very little gelatine (about one-eighth of an 
 ounce), and when dissolved pass the gravy 
 through a tamis, put it in a basin and let it 
 cool. When the pie is ready and .nearly cold, 
 pour the gravy (only just tepid) into it through 
 a funnel, and put away to set. 
 
 GRAVY FOR GOOSE OR DUCK. 
 
 Put a piece of butter the size of a small egg 
 into a saucepan, and fry in it, until lightly 
 browned, two onions, sliced, and half a tea- 
 spoonful of powdered sage. Add a cupful of 
 good brown gravy, a grain of cayenne, half a 
 tea-spoonful of pepper, and a pinch of salt, if 
 
GRA 
 
 271 
 
 GRA 
 
 the gravy has not been already seasoned. Sim- 
 mer gently for a quarter of an hour, then 
 Btrain, return the liquid to the saucepan, and 
 add a tea-spoonful of mixed mjistard. and a 
 wine-glassful of port or claret. Make the gravy 
 as hot as possible, without boiling, after the 
 wine is added. Time, altogether, abovit half an 
 hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, 3d. 
 Sufficient for half a pint of gravy. 
 
 GRAVY FOR GRILLS AND BROILS. 
 
 Kub a table-spoonful of flour into an ounce 
 of good butter. Mix with it half a pint of good 
 strong stock, a table-spoonful of ketchup, the 
 juice and rind of a quarter of a lemon, a tea- 
 spoonful of made mustard, half the quantity of 
 the essence of anchovies, half a tea-spoonful of 
 pepper, three grains of cayenne, a tea-spoonful 
 of chopped capers, and a shallot, finely minced. 
 Put these ingredients into a saucepan. Let 
 them boil, then simmer gently for five or six 
 minutes, strain, and serve. Probable cost, 4d. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. - 
 
 GRAVY FOR HADDOCK, BAKED. 
 
 Brown a sliced onion in a little butter, and 
 add gradually a pint of good stock, or a tea- 
 spoonful of Bovril dissolved in warm water. 
 Thicken with a table-spoonful of flour, and let 
 the mixture simmer with a bunch of parsley for 
 twenty minutes. Skim off the fat, strain the 
 gravy, and add pepper and salt to taste, a little 
 browning, if necessary, and a table-spoonful 
 of mushroom ketchup. Serve in a tureen. 
 Probable cost, 2d. Sufficient for a pint of 
 gravy. 
 
 GRAVY FOR HARE. 
 
 Thicken half a pint of stock ,with a dessert- 
 spoonful of flour, mixed smoothly with a small 
 quantity of the liquid at first, and afterwards 
 added to the rest. Let it boil for twenty min- 
 utes, then add a table-spoonful of soy, pepper 
 and salt, if necessary, and half a tumblerful of 
 port or claret. Send a little of the gravy in the 
 dish with the hare, and the rest in a tureen. 
 Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, 2d. Suf- 
 ficient for nearly a pint of gravy. 
 
 GRAVY FOR HARE (another way). 
 
 When no stock is in the house, procure half 
 a pound of gravy beef, cut it into small pieces, 
 and put it into a saucepan with three-quarters 
 of a pint of water, two sprigs of parsley, one 
 small sprig of marjoram, and the same Of 
 thyme, a large onion with one clove stuck into 
 it, half a dozen peppercorns, and a piece of 
 bread toasted on both sides. Simmer. gently for 
 one hour, then strain, thicken the gravy with a 
 dessert-spoonful of flour, let it boil once more 
 for half an hour, add a table-spoonful of soy, 
 and half a tumblerful of port or claret, and 
 serve as before. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive 
 of the wine. Sufficient for a pint of gravy. 
 
 GRAVY FOR HASHES. 
 
 Take the bones and trimmings of the joint 
 from which the hash is to be made, put all into a 
 saucepan, first breaking the bones into small 
 pieces, and cover with some cold water. Put half 
 a tea-spoonful of bruised celery-seed, tied in 
 muslin, or two or three of the outaide sticks of 
 celery, which should always be kept for flavour- 
 
 ing purposes, six peppercorns, four berries of 
 allspice, two sprigs of parsley, one of marjoram, 
 and one of thyme, with a pint and a half of 
 water. Simmer gently for half an hour, then 
 strain. Cut a small onion into slices, and fry 
 it till lightly browned in a piece .of butter the 
 size of a walnut. Mix in, very smoothly, a 
 table-spoonful of flour, and add gradually the 
 strained gravy. Boil all for twenty minutes, 
 strain once more, add half a tea-spoonful of 
 salt, and any flavouring that may be preferred, 
 such as ketchup, finely-minced pickles, capers, 
 or a wine-glassful of ale or wine. When quite 
 hot, the gravy is ready for the meat, which 
 should only be in the pan long enough to heat 
 through, and should on no account whatever 
 be allowed to boil. Probable cost, 4d., ex- 
 clusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for six 
 persons. 
 
 GRAVY FOR HASHES, CHEAP. 
 
 Divide into small pieces the bones and trim- 
 mings of the meat to be hashed, and put them 
 into a saucepan, with as much cold water as will 
 cover them, and to every pint and a half of 
 water add six berries of allspice, six pepper- 
 corns, half a tea-spoonful of pounded celery- 
 seed, tied in muslin, a small bundle of savoury 
 herbs, half a salt-spoonful of salt, and half a 
 slice of bread, toasted on both sides till it is 
 brown and hard, but not burnt. Cover the 
 saucepan closely, and simmer gently for an hour. 
 Cut a good-sized onion into thin slices, and put 
 them into a saucepan with a piece of butter the 
 size of a walnut. Let them remain over the 
 fire till brightly browned, moving them about 
 to prevent them burning. Mix in very smoothly 
 as much flour as will ma;ke a stiff batter, and 
 add gradually the gravy made from the bones 
 and trimmings. Boil gently for a few minutes, 
 to" take off the raw taste of the flour, strain it 
 through a coarse sieve, and it is ready for the 
 hash, which, it is, perhaps, scarcely necessary 
 to say, must not be boiled in it, but only well 
 heated. The gravy is improved by the addition 
 of a table-spoonful of mushroom or walnut ket- 
 chup, or Harvey's sauce, or finely-minced 
 pickles. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the 
 bones, etc. Sufficient for a pint and a quarter 
 of gravy. Instead of thickening in the way 
 described above, two dessert-spoonfuls of flour, 
 a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce, and about half 
 a tea-spoonful of made mustard may be mixed 
 smoothly with a little water stirred into the 
 gravy, which should then be stewed gently 
 twenty minutes longer. - 
 
 GRAVY FOR MINCED VEAL, CHEAP. 
 
 Put the trimmings and bones of the veal into 
 a saucepan, with as much water as will cover 
 them. With a pint of water put a small onion, 
 half a tea-spoonful of finely-minced lemon-rind, 
 a small sprig of thyme, a blade of mace, and 
 half a tea-spoonful of salt. Stew gently for an 
 hour, then strain the gravy, thicken it with a 
 little flour and butter, and add a table-spoonful 
 of cream or milk. The flavour may be varied 
 by the addition of mushroom or walnut ketchup, 
 or the cream may be omitted, and the juice of 
 half a lemon substituted for it. Probable cost, 
 4d. per pint. Sufficient for three-quarters of 
 a pint. 
 
 » 
 
:GRA 
 
 272 
 
 GRA 
 
 CRAVY FOR PATTIES. 
 
 Take the bones, skin, and trimmings of the 
 meat of which the patties are made, and put 
 them into a jar with as much water as will 
 cover them, a little pepper and salt, a bay-leaf, 
 and a shallot, finely minced. Tie two or three 
 folds of paper over the jar, and place it in a 
 moderate oven for two hours. Strain the gravy, 
 skim it carefully, let it boil, and it is ready to 
 be put into the patties. If these are made of 
 venison or hare, it is an improvement to dis- 
 solve a small quantity of red currant jelly in 
 the gravy, and to add a little claret. 
 
 GRAVY FOR PIKE, BAKED. 
 
 Mix a table-spoonful of flour very smoothly 
 with half a pint of stock. Simmer gently, with 
 a minced onion and a sprig of parsley, for 
 twenty minutes, then strain and skim care- 
 fully, add pepper and salt to taste, and a des- 
 sert-spoonful of ketchup. Drain off the fat from 
 the pan in which the pike has been baked, pour 
 in the boiling liquid, stir it well, let it boil up 
 once more, and serve. If no stock is at hand, 
 a little may be made from gravy beef, any bones 
 and-trimmings of meat, or Bovril. Probable cost, 
 about 2d. Sufficient for half a pint of gravy. 
 
 GRAVY FOR RISSOLES. 
 
 Take the skin, trimmings, and bones of the 
 meat from which the rissoles have been made. 
 Divide them into small pieces, and put them 
 into a saucepan with a minced onion and a piece 
 of butter the size of a walnut. Turn them 
 about over a quick fire till they are lightly 
 browned, then add a pint of boiling water, a 
 blade of mace, a bunch of parsley, half a dozen 
 peppercorns, and half a slice of toasted bread. 
 Put on the lid of the saucepan, and simmer 
 gently for an hour. Strain; thicken the gravy 
 with a table-spoonful of flour, mixed smoothly 
 with a little cold water, add a table-spoonful 
 of ketchup, and half a salt-spoonful of salt, 
 boil once more, and serve. Probable cost, 3d. 
 Sufficient for a pint of gravy. 
 
 GRAVY FOR ROAST MEAT. 
 
 About twenty minutes before the joint is 
 taken from the fire, put a common dish under 
 it, and pour slowly and gradually over the brown 
 parts of the meat two or three table-spoonfuls 
 of boiling water, in which half a tea-spoonful of 
 salt has been dissolved. When it has all 
 dropped into the dish, set it aside, carefully 
 skim off the fat as it rises to the surface, for it 
 is very disagreeable to have bubbles of fat on 
 the top of thfe gravy in the dish, let it boil, and 
 serve a very small quantity on the dish with the 
 meat, and the rest in a tureen. When a, larger 
 quantity of gravy is required, there is in ordin- 
 ary households no necessity to purchase gravy- 
 beef in order to obtain it. The trimmings and 
 hard brown uneatable pieces of roasted and 
 broiled meat or poultry should be regularly col- 
 lected, put into a jar, and covered with boiling 
 water. The next day they should be boiled and 
 strained, and will then be ready for use. The 
 brown liquid thus obtained will be much better 
 than water to put under the joint. 
 
 GRAVY FOR ROAST VENISON. 
 
 Take three shank-bones of mutton, and put 
 them into a stewpan with a pint of water and 
 
 six or eight peppercorns, and, after bringing 
 them to a boil, let them simmer gently for two 
 hours. Skim and strain, add a pinch of salt, a 
 table-spoonful of red currant jelly, and a glass 
 of port or claret. Boil up once, and the gravy 
 is ready to serve. If preferred, a table-spoon- 
 ful of walnut ketchup may be substituted for 
 the jelly and wine. Probable cost, about 8d., 
 exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for nearly a 
 pint of gravy. 
 
 GRAVY FOR ROAST VENISON (another way). 
 
 Boil a quarter of a pint of good French vine- 
 gar with two ounces of pounded loaf sugar, and 
 as soon as the latter is dissolved, pour it into 
 a tureen. A well-tinned saucepan should be 
 used in making this gravy. Time, three or four 
 minutes. Probable cost, 2d. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. 
 GRAVY FOR VEAL AND HAM PIE. 
 
 Bone a calf's foot and cut it into pieces about 
 two inches square, add it to the bones and trim- 
 mings of the veal and ham used in the pie. Put 
 these into a stewpan with a quart of light stock, 
 an onion stuck with two cloves, a bunch of 
 herbs, a salt-spoonful of salt and one of pepper. 
 Boil up and skim, then gently simmer for two 
 hours. Skim the fat off, tamis the gravy, and 
 pour it into the pie when only just warm. Put 
 aside in a cool place to set. 
 
 GRAVY, GARLIC. 
 
 {See Gaelic Gbavt.) 
 GRAVY IN HASTE. 
 
 Take half a pound of lean beef, an onion, and 
 a carrot, and cut them all into very small pieces. 
 Put them into a saucepan, with a piece of butter 
 or good beef dripping the size of a large nut, 
 and place them over a fire till they are brightly 
 browned all over. Keep stirring the saucepan, 
 to prevent their burning, and add three-quarters 
 of a pint of water, a sprig of parsley and thyme, 
 six peppercorns, two cloves, and half a salt- 
 spoonful of salt. Simmer gently, skim, and 
 strain, and the gravy is ready for use. Time, 
 half an hour to boil the gravy. Sufficient for 
 three-quarters of a pint of gravy. Probable 
 cost, about 7d. per pint. 
 
 GRAVY IN HASTE (another way). 
 
 Dissolve a tea-spoonful of Bovril in half 
 a pint of boiling water. Fry a minced carrot 
 and onion in a little butter or dripping, until 
 lightly browned, pour the liquid over them, let 
 all boil together for ten minutes, add a dessert- 
 spoonful of mushroom or walnut ketchup, skim, 
 strain, and serve. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient 
 for half a pint of gravy. 
 
 GRAVY, JELLY FOR. 
 
 Take a pound and a half of the shin of beef, 
 a pound and a half of the knuckle of veal, and 
 a quarter of a pound of lean uncooked ham. 
 Cut the meat into small pieces, break the bone, 
 remove the marrow, and add a bunch of savoury 
 herbs, a sliced carrot, two blades of mace, eight 
 peppercorns, the rind of a quarter of a lemon, 
 a few grains of cayenne, a lump of sugar, and a 
 small tea-spoonful of salt. Pour on four pints 
 of water, or, better still, veal broth, and let the 
 mixture simmer very genbly for six hours. If 
 quickly boiled the jelly will be spoilt. Remove 
 
GRA 
 
 273 
 
 GRA 
 
 the scum as it rises, and strain the gravy, which 
 should be kept in a cool place, and boiled for 
 a minute or two every two or three days, if it 
 is to be kept some time. The above is an ex- 
 cellent recipe for making strong gravies and 
 sauces. Probable cost, about 3b. Sufficient for 
 three pints. 
 
 GRAVY, JUGGED. 
 
 Take half a pound of lean ham, and two 
 pounds of lean beef — the shin is the best for 
 this purpose. Cut them into small square 
 , pieces, and put them into an earthen jar. 
 Strew over, and amongst them, chopped vege- 
 tables and seasoning, consisting of a carrot, an 
 onion, a salt-spoonful of bruised celery-seed, 
 tied in a piece of muslin, a blade of mace, three 
 sprigs of parsley, and one each of marjoram and 
 thyme, six peppercorns, and a clove. Pour » 
 quart of water on these ingredients, cover the 
 jar closely, and place it in a moderate oven for 
 five or six hours. At the end of that time, skim 
 and strain the gravy, which will be ready for 
 use. Probable cost for this quantity, 2s. 6d. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 GRAVY, KIDNEY. 
 
 Take half a beef kidney, or three sheeps' kid- 
 neys. Cut them into slices, flour them, and 
 strew over them a table-spoonful of powdered 
 herbs, of which two parts should be parsley, 
 and one thyme. Put them into a saucepan with 
 a piece of butter, the size of a large egg, and a 
 small onion finely minced, and shake them over 
 the fire until the gravy is almost dried up ; then 
 add a pint of boiling water, and simmer very 
 gently for an hour and a half, or more, until 
 the gravy is done to perfection. Then ekim and 
 strain. Add salt and cayenne, and any flavour- 
 ing that may be preferred. Probable cost, 8d. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 GRAVY MADE WITHOUT MEAT, FOR FOWLS. 
 
 Take the feet, necks, livers, and gizzards of 
 the fowls, wash them thoroughly, cut them into 
 small pieces, and put them into a saucepan, with 
 a bunch of savoury herbs, a small onion, half a 
 slice of bread, toasted brown and hard, but not 
 burnt, a salt-spoonful of salt, half a salt-spoon- 
 ful of pepper, and a pint and a half of water. 
 Simmer very gently for an hour or more. Pour 
 the fat from the pan which has been under the 
 fowl, strain the gravy to it, stir it well, strain 
 it again into the saucepan ; add a table-spoonful 
 of mushroom ketchup, if this is liked, and 
 serve as hot as possible. Probable cost, 2d. 
 Sufficient for a couple of fowls. 
 
 GRAVY MAIGRE FOR FISH (sometimes calfed Root 
 Gravy). 
 Cut half a clove -of garlic, an onion, a carrot, 
 and a turnip into small pieces, and fry them 
 brown in a piece of butter the size of a large 
 egg. Pour slowly over them a quarter of a 
 pint of cold water and add a few grains of cay- 
 enne, half a tea^poonful of salt, three cloves, 
 two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, half a 
 dozen button-mushrooms, and another lump of 
 bu.tter, rolled thickly in flour. Simmer gently 
 for about twenty minutes, and before straining 
 add half a tumblerful of sherry or Madeira. 
 Time, altogether, about three-quarters of an 
 hour. Sufficient for three-quarters of a pint of 
 
 gravy. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the 
 wine. 
 
 GRAVY, ONION. 
 
 Take three Spanish onions, cut them into 
 slices, and fry them with two ounces of butter, 
 till they are slightly browned. Drain them, 
 and mix a table-spoonful of flour, very smoothly, 
 with the butter. Add, gradually, three-quarters 
 of a pint of stock, return the onions to the sauce- 
 pan, and simmer gently until they are quite 
 soft. Season with pepper and salt, pass them 
 through a fine sieve, and boil up once more, 
 adding two table-spoonfuls of ketchup, two of 
 claret, and a tea-spoonful of lemon- juice. Time, 
 altogether, about three-quarters of an hour. 
 Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, 6d. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 GRAVY, ORANGE (suitable for Wiid Water-fowl). 
 
 Cut a small onion into little pieces, and put it 
 into a saucepan, with half a pint of veal stock, 
 three or four leaves of basil, and the rind of a 
 Seville orange — or, failing this, a lemon. Sim- 
 mer gently for twenty minutes, strain the gravy, 
 and add the juice of the orange, half a' salt- 
 sijconful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of pepper, 
 and a wine-glassful of port or claret. Return 
 the liquid to the saucepan, make it as hot as 
 possible without letting it boil, and serve in a 
 tureen. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the 
 wine. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 GRAVY PANADA. 
 
 Take about a gill of gravy from a joint of 
 beef or mutton, and half the measure of fine 
 bread-crumbs. Mix both in a saucepan, and 
 bring to boiling point, stirring all the time; 
 then beat well with a fork, and let it stand a 
 few minutes covered; season nicely, and serve 
 in a hot cup. If not sufficiently strong, add a 
 spoonful of Bovril to improve taste and appear- 
 ance. 
 
 GRAVY, PIQUANT, FOR HASH. 
 
 Mince very finely two shallots and a quarter 
 of a clove of garlic. Put them in a stewpan, 
 with a piece of butter the size of a walnut. Fry 
 very gently, until lightly browned, and keep 
 stirring, to prevent burning. Mix with the 
 gravy, smoothly, two table-spoonfuls of flour, 
 and a dessert-spoonful of chopped parsley. Add 
 two table-spoonfuls of vinegar or lemon-juice, a 
 cupful of good stock, and half a slice of bread, 
 toasted until it is firm and hard, but not burnt. 
 Garnish the dish with pickled gherkins. Time, 
 half an hour. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for 
 half a pint of gravy. 
 
 GRAVY, RICE. 
 
 Boil a table-spoonful of washed rice for two 
 hours in half a pint of plain stock, made from 
 poultry bones or boiled beef, well reduced. Pass 
 through a sieve. Now take some gravy from a 
 joint, or good meat tea, or Bovril, and use it to 
 dilute the rice to the consistency of thin cream. 
 Season to taste, and serve hot with toast or 
 biscuits. If wanted quickly, ground ric^ or 
 rice flour may be used, when only about half 
 an hour's boiling will be required. 
 GRAVY, SAVOURY. 
 
 This is another name for Cullis, ob Rich 
 Gbavt, which see. 
 
GRA 
 
 274 
 
 GRA 
 
 GRAVY, SEASONING FOR. 
 
 Put one ounce and a half of white pepper 
 into a mortar, with half an ounce of mace, one 
 ounce of nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce of cay- 
 enne, a salt-spoonful of ginger, and the same 
 of cassia. Pound, and mix thoroughly. Put 
 the powder into a small bottle, and keep it 
 closely corked, or the strength and flavour will 
 escape. A pinch of this powder will season half 
 a pint of gravy. 
 
 GRAVY, SHALLOT (for broils and grills). 
 
 Peel three shallots, cut them into thin slices, 
 and put them into a saucepan, with three table- 
 spoonfuls of best French vinegar; boil for five 
 minutes, then add a quarter of a pint of clear 
 brown gravy, two pinches of salt, and two grains 
 of cayenne. Boil altogether five minutes longer 
 and serve as hot as possible. Probable cost, 3d. 
 Sufficient for nearly half a pint of gravy. 
 
 GRAVY SOUP, WITH VERMICELLI. 
 
 Take two quarts of clear brown gravy soup 
 (see Gravy, Buown, Soup). Let it boil, then 
 drop into it, very gradually, three ounces of 
 fresh vermicelli. If long kept, the soup will be 
 quite spoilt. The vermicelli should be rubbed 
 between the fingers, and dropped in with one 
 hand, whilst the soup is being stirred with the 
 other to prevent any lumps forming. Simmer 
 gently until it is thick and soft, and serve with 
 a French roll in the tureen. A plateful of 
 grated Parmesan cheese should be scut to table 
 with the soup. The usual plan is to soak the 
 vermicelli in boiling water for a few minutes, 
 drain and cool it in a colander, then simmer it 
 gently for five or six minutes, stirring frequently 
 to prevent it getting into lumps. Time, from 
 twenty to thirty minutes to boil the vermicelli. 
 Probable cost, vermicelli, 8d. per pound. Suf- 
 ficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 GRAVY, STOCK FOR. 
 
 For ordinary domestic use, a good cook will 
 seldom require gravy-beef, with which to make 
 gravy. The bones and trimmings of meat and 
 poultry, the shank bones of mutton, which have 
 been soaked, brushed, and long stewed with the 
 gravy which is left from joints, will generally 
 supply all that is wanted. When fresh meat 
 is necessary, beef skirt, kidney, cow-heel, the 
 shin of beef, or any of the ingredients which 
 are used for the stock of soup, may be used for 
 gravy. It should be remembered that ketchup 
 and sauces for flavouring should be put in a 
 short time only before serving, as the strength 
 speedily evaporates; and it is best to be very 
 sparing in their use, as a little may be added, 
 but cannot be taken out. If gravy is too weak, 
 it should be boiled in an uncovered pan; if 
 strong, in a covered one. It should be kept in 
 a cool place, in an earthen jar, the lid of which 
 should not be put on until the gravy is cool. 
 If there is the slightest suspicion that the meat 
 for gravy will not keep, it should be lightly 
 fried. 
 
 GRAVY, TO CLARIFY. 
 
 The easiest way of clarifying gravy is de- 
 scribed in the recipe Cleab Soup (Made from 
 Bones), where white of egg is used. The best 
 method that can be adopted for doing the work 
 
 will be found in the recipe Cleae Soup (Excel- 
 lent), where raw beef is employed. 
 
 GRAVY, TO IMPROVE THE FLAVOUR OR 
 STRENGTH OF. 
 
 When gravies are wanting in flavour, they 
 may be improved by being boiled quickly in an 
 uncovered saucepan, and by the addition of a 
 little ketchup, or any of the best prepared 
 sauces. If this is not sufficient, take two or 
 three ounces of the lean of uncooked ham or 
 bacon, cut it into small pieces, and put them 
 into a saucepan with a piece of butter the size 
 of an egg, two shallots finely minced, a piece of 
 parsley root, two allspice berries, three cloves, 
 and a bunch of savoury herbs. Keep these in- 
 gredients over a gentle fire, shaking them often 
 to prevent burning, for about half an hour, or 
 until the pan is coloured with a bright red 
 glaze; add, very slowly, a pint and a half of 
 the gravy, and simmer gently for half an hour 
 longer. Fish gravy must be flavoured judi- 
 ciously with anchovy or herring brine, soy, and 
 walnut ketchup. Sufficient for a pint and a half 
 of gravy. Probable cost, 6d., for the flavouring. 
 
 GRAVY, TO KEEP. 
 
 When gravy is to be kept it should be put 
 into earthen pans, freshly scalded and dried. 
 Vegetables should be strained from it, and if 
 any fat cakes on the top, it should be left un- 
 touched until the gravy is wanted. It should 
 be boiled up every day in summer, and every 
 two or three days in winter, and the pan scalded 
 and dried. It is best left uncovered, but if a 
 cover is necessary to keep out the dust, it must 
 not be put on until the gravy is quite cold. 
 
 GRAVY, TO MAKE MUTTON LIKE VENISON. 
 
 Let the mutton hang as long as it will keep 
 sweet. The length of time will depend upon 
 the weather. Cut a " high " snipe, or woodcock, 
 into small pieces, being careful first to remove 
 the bag from the entrails, and stew them gently 
 in a pint and a half of unseasoned beef or 
 mutton gravy. Strain, and pour it boiling hot 
 over the mutton. Time, half an hour. Probable 
 cost, variable. Sufficient for eight or ten 
 persons. 
 
 GRAVY, VEAL, FOR WHITE SAUCE. 
 
 Put one pound of lean ham at the bottom of 
 a saucepan, with two pounds of the neck, or the 
 fleshy part of the knuckle of veal, cut into two 
 or three pieces. Cover them with a quarter of a 
 pint of good broth, and boil, rather quickly at 
 first, and afterwards very gently, until the meat 
 begins to glaze. Pierce the meat once or twice 
 with a skewer, and shake the pan frequently to 
 prevent burning. When the glaze is lightly 
 brown, add, gradually, two pints of good broth ; 
 and simmer gently for two hours. If it is wished 
 to flavour the gravy, an onion and a bunch of 
 parsley may be stewed with the broth ; but if 
 it is intended to be put aside for future use, 
 neither vegetables nor seasoning should be 
 added. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for a pint 
 and a half of gravy. 
 
 GRAVY, VEAL, FOR WHITE SAUCE (another way). 
 
 Take a knuckle of veal from which the meat 
 
 has been taken, and saw it into small pieces. 
 
 Put these into a stewpan, with two ounces of 
 
GRA 
 
 275 
 
 GRE 
 
 undressed lean ham, cut into dice, and two pints 
 of water. Cover the pan closely, and simmer 
 very gently for three hours after the water has 
 once boiled. Strain, and put aside until re- 
 quired. A small piece of 'lemon-rind, with a 
 sprig of parsley and thyme, half a dozen pepper- 
 corns, and half a blade of mace, may be stewed 
 with the bones if a flavouring is desired. Prob- 
 able cost, 6d. Sufficient for a pint and a half 
 of gravy. 
 
 GRAVY, WHITE, FOR FISH. 
 
 Take one pound of pike, or any other common 
 fish, cut it into small pieces, and put these into 
 a saucepan, with two pints of water, a small 
 bunch of savoury herbs, the rind of a quarter of 
 a lemon, four cloves, four peppercorns, and half 
 a teaspoonful of salt. Cover the saucepan 
 closely, and simmer gently for an hour. Strain, 
 and when the gravy is wanted mix a. table- 
 spoonful of flour, in a clean saiicepan, with two 
 ounces of butter. Beat with the back of a 
 wooden spoon until the flour and butter are per- 
 fectly smooth, add the. liquid gradually, boil 
 altogether for a quarter of an hour, and serve.. 
 Probable cost, about 8d. Sufficient for six or 
 eight persons. 
 
 GRAVY, WHITE ROUX, FOR THICKENING. 
 
 Proceed as for Geavy, Beown Eoux, poe 
 Thickenins, but do not keep the flour and 
 butter sufficiently long on the fire to take any 
 colour. This preparation is used for thickening 
 white sauces. Time, a quarter of an hour. 
 Probable cost, 6d. Suflicient, a dessert-spoonful 
 of roux will thicken a pint of gravy. 
 
 GRAYLING. 
 
 The grayling is a silver-scaled fish, pretty and 
 palatable, found in rivers in the North of Eng- 
 land. It often weighs as much as five pounds, 
 though the more usual weight is from two to 
 three pounds. It should be avoided in April 
 and May, but is excellent in July and August, 
 when trout is going out. It may be either 
 baked or fried; and in either case should be 
 scaled before it is cooked. 
 
 GRAYLING, BAKED. 
 
 Wash, scale, and empty the fish. Dry them; 
 season them with salt and cayenne, and lay 
 them in a shallow baking-dish, with three or 
 four lumps of butter placed on them. Baste 
 them now and then, and put a cover over the 
 pan while they are cooking. Send them to table 
 with sauce made of the gravy which runs from 
 them, mixed with good melted butter. Time, 
 about half an hour. Probable cost, uncertain, 
 as graylings are seldom offered for sale. 
 Suflicient, one moderate-sized fish for two 
 persons. 
 
 GRAYLING, BROILED. 
 
 Wash, scale, and empty the fish ; season them 
 with pepper and salt, dip them in oil, and place 
 them on the gridiron over a clear fire for a few 
 minutes. Serve on a hot dish, with the head 
 and tail together, and squeeze the juice of a 
 lemon over them. The fish should be small 
 when cooked thus. Probable cost of this fish, 
 uncertain, for the reason stated in the preced- 
 ing recipe. Sufficient, a moderate-sized fish for 
 two persons. 
 
 GRAYLING, FRIED. 
 
 Scale and clean the fish, opening it as little 
 as possible. Cut off the fins and gills, but leave 
 the heads, and wipe them as dry as possible. 
 Season with pepper and salt, dredge a little 
 flour over them, and fry them in plenty of hot 
 dripping, or lard, until lightly browned. . , Drain 
 them from the fat, and send them to table with 
 crisped parsley in the dish, and melted butter 
 in a tureen. Time, according to the size, from 
 six to ten minutes. Sufficient, one moderate- 
 sized fish for two persons. 
 
 GRAYLING, SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Put a table-spoonful of sherry, or any v/hite 
 wine, into a saucepan, with one tea-spoonful of 
 anchovy essence, the juice of half a lemon, a 
 tea-spoonful of powdered herbs, of which two 
 parts should be parsley and one thyme, an inch 
 of lemon-rind, two cloves, six peppercorns, and 
 a shallot finely minced. Shake the pan over 
 the fire for five or six minutes; strain the 
 gravy, and mix with it three ounces of butter, 
 a table-spoonful of fiour, and a quarter of a 
 pint of cream, or new milk. Simmer gently, 
 stirring all the time, until the sauce is hot, 
 but it must not boil. Probable cost, 6d., if 
 made with milk. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 GREEN BEAN PUDDING. 
 
 Take one pound of old green beans, put them 
 into boiling water, and boil them until tender. 
 Blanch and pound them, and season them with 
 one tea-spoonful of salt and half a tea-spoonful 
 of pepper. Add the yolk of an egg, and two or 
 three table-spoonfuls of cream; then boil the 
 mixture in a buttered basin ; turn' it out before 
 serving, and pour over it some good parsley 
 sauce. It should be served with boiled bacon. 
 Time to boil, about one hour and a half. Prob- 
 able cost, 5d. Suffixjient for four or five persons. 
 
 GREEN CAPS. 
 
 Take six or eight sound young green codlings, 
 scoop out the cores without breaking the fruit, 
 rub the skins with a soft cloth, and place the 
 apples in a preserving-pan, with vine-leaves 
 under and above them, and as much cold water 
 as will cover them. Cover the saucepan closely, 
 and set it by the side of the fire. Let the apples 
 simmer until they are nearly soft, but quite 
 whole. Lift them out as gently as possible, so 
 as not to break them; drain and dry them, and 
 rub them with the white of egg, beaten to a firm 
 froth. Sift some pounded loaf sugar over them, 
 and place them side by side on a tin plate in 
 the oven until they sparkle like frost. Put them 
 into a glass dish, pour a good custard round 
 them, and stick a pretty green sprig in the top 
 of each apple. Time, altogether, one hour. 
 Probable cost, about Is. Sufficieit for five or 
 six persons. 
 
 GREEN CORN SOUP (a German recipe). 
 
 Boil one pint of unripe green corn in water 
 until sufficiently tender, then pass through a, 
 sieve, and mix it with a quart of nicely- 
 flavoured clear gravy soup. Let all boil up 
 together, and serve in a tureen with toasted 
 sippets. A few young spinach-leaves may be 
 boiled in the corn to make it a brighter green. 
 
GRE 
 
 276 
 
 GRE 
 
 Time, half an hour, or more. Sufficient for four 
 or five persona. 
 
 GREEN DUTCH SAUCE. 
 
 Make half a pint of good bechamel sauce {see 
 Bechamel). 'Wash some young parsley-leaves, 
 and put them, while wet, into a mortar. Pound 
 them to a pulp, and squeeze out the juice which 
 comes from them into the sauce until it is 
 sufficiently greened. Simmer gently over the 
 fire, and, before serving, add a dessert-spoonful 
 of strained lemon-juice. The juice must not be 
 added until the last moment, or the colour of 
 the sauce will be spoilt. Time, a few minutes 
 to press out the juice. Sufficient for half a pint 
 of sauce. Probable cost, 4d. 
 
 GREENGAGE JAM. 
 
 Choose greengages which are not over-ripe ; 
 weigh them, and allow three-quarters of a 
 pound of sugar to every pound of fruit. Re- 
 move the stones and skins, and strew over the 
 plums half of the sugar, pounded and sifted. 
 Let them stand for five or six hours. Put them 
 into a preserving-pan, and let them simmer 
 until reduced to pulp; add the remainder of 
 the sugar, and boil until a little of the syrup 
 poured upon a plate feels thick and firm. The 
 jam must be well boiled, as plum jams are apt 
 to ferment. A few minutes before the jam is 
 taken from the fire add a quarter of the kernels, 
 blanched and sliced. Put the jam into jars; 
 put oiled paper over them, and cover the tops 
 of the jars with thin paper, dipped in gum. 
 Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient, a pint 
 and a half of fruit for one pound of jam. 
 
 GREENGAGE MARMALADE. 
 
 Take six pounds of ripe greengages, and re- 
 move the stalks. Boil the fruit quickly for 
 about three-quarters of an hour, then rub it 
 through a sieve with a wooden spoon, leaving 
 the skins and stones behind. Eeturn the pulp 
 to the pan, add four pounds of loaf sugar, boil 
 again for about twenty minutes, stirring con- 
 stantly, and removing the scum as it rises. 
 Drop a little on a cold plate, and when it is 
 found to set quickly, pour it into pots, and tie 
 down whilst hot. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. 
 
 GREENGAGE MOULD. 
 
 Take a pint and a half of greengages, fully 
 ripe; skin, and stone them, and put them into 
 a preserving-pan, with ten ounces of loaf sugar 
 and a quarter of the kernels, blanched and 
 sliced ; boil until reduced to pulp. Dissolve a 
 quarter of an ounce of isinglass, or gelatine, in 
 a little boiling water ; add it to the marmalade, 
 and pour into an oiled mould. Let the fruit 
 remain until firm. When wanted for use, turn 
 it out on a glasS' dish. Serve whipped cream 
 or custard round it. Time, an hour and a half 
 to boil the fruit. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. Probable cost, lOd. for the mould. 
 
 GREENGAGE PUDDING. 
 
 Line a. buttered mould with good suet crust. 
 Fill it with greengages, picked and washed; 
 add a little moist sugar, put a lid of the crust 
 on the top, and fasten the edges securely ; tie 
 the pudding in a floured cloth, put it into boil- 
 ing water, and boil till done enough. As soon 
 as the pudding is turned out of the basin, cut 
 
 a hole in the top, to allow the steam to escape. 
 Serve with sweet sauce. Time, two to two and 
 a half hours, according to size. Sufficient, a 
 pudding made in a quart mould for half a 
 dozen persons. Probable cost of greengages, 
 6d. per quart when in full season. 
 
 GREENGAGES, COMPOTE OF. 
 
 Boil six ounces of loaf sugar, with one pint 
 of water, for a quarter of an hour. Remove the 
 scum as it rises, put in the fruit, and simmer 
 gently for another quarter of an hour, or until 
 the plums are tender, but unbroken. Care must 
 be taken not to let the plums break, or the 
 appearance of the dish will be spoilt. Lift them 
 out singly with a spoon, and put them into a 
 glass dish ; let the syrup cool a little, then pour 
 it over them. The greengages should be eaten 
 cold. Probable cost, 5d. Sufficient for three or 
 four persons. 
 
 GREENGAGES, COMPdTE OF (a German recipe). 
 
 Take one pint of very ripe greengages, peel 
 off the skins, and put the plums into a glass 
 dish, with half a pound of pounded loaf sugar 
 strewn over them. In two or three hours suf- 
 ficient syrup will have been drawn from them. 
 Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 GREENGAGES, TO BOTTLE. 
 
 Choose perfectly sound greengages, gathered 
 on a dry day. Before they are fully ripe. Put 
 them into wide-mouthed bottles, and fill these 
 with syrup, made by boiling a pint of water 
 with a pound of sugar for four or five minutes. 
 Cork securely, and put them up to their necks 
 in a large pan of cold water, with straw between 
 the bottles to prevent them cracking. Bring 
 the contents of the pan slowly to a boil; after 
 boiling, simmer gently for a quarter of an hour ; 
 leave them until cold, seal the corks securely, 
 and keep the bottles in a cool place, with the 
 necks downwards. If there is any leakage, the 
 fruit must be used at once; otherwise, it will 
 keep for years. Probable cost of greengages, 
 when in full season, 6d. per quart. 
 
 GREENGAGES, TO BRANDY. 
 
 Choose perfectly sound greengages, not too 
 ripe; weigh them, and allow half a pound of 
 sugar for each pound of fruit. Put the sugar 
 into a preserving-pan, with three table-spoon- 
 fuls of water to every pound, and when it is 
 dissolved, pour it, boiling, over the fruit. Let 
 the greengages remain for forty-eight hours, 
 then boil them very softly till they are clear, 
 but unbroken. Lift them out, singly, with a 
 spoon, and three-parts fill wide-mouthed bottles 
 with them. Boil the syrup then for five min- 
 utes; mix with it the equal measure in good 
 French brandy, and, when cool, fill the bottles. 
 Cover them securely, and keep in a cool dry 
 place. Time, about twenty minutes to boil the 
 plums. Probable cost of greengages, when 
 plentiful, 6d. per quart. 
 
 GREENGAGES, TO CANDY. 
 
 Make a sjrrup of a pound of sugar boiled with 
 half- a pint of water. Put the greengages, be- 
 fore they are quite ripe, in this, and boil for 
 a few minutes till they are tender, but un- 
 
GRE 
 
 277 
 
 GRE 
 
 broken. Take them out, drain them, and sift 
 pounded loaf sugar over them until they look 
 quite white. Put them on dishes in a cool oven, 
 and keep turning them aboufr, and sifting more 
 sugar over them, until they are dry. Time, 
 about fifteen minutes to boil the fruit. Prob- 
 able cost of greengages, when plentiful, 6d. per 
 quart. 
 
 GREENGAGES, TO PRESERVE CRY. 
 
 Take a pound of greengages, gathered on a 
 dry day, before they are fully ripe. Leave the 
 stalks untouched. Make a syrup, by boiling 
 together a pound of loaf sugar with a quarter 
 of a pint of water. Put the fruit into the syrup 
 when boiling, and simmer for ten minutes ; then 
 lift each plum out singly, boil the syrup once 
 more, and pour it over the plums. Repeat this 
 for six days, boiling the plums four minutes 
 each day. On the seventh day put the green- 
 gages on a sieve, and place them in a cool oven 
 to dry. They should be kept in single rows, in 
 boxes, with a sheet of white paper between each 
 layer of plums. Probable cost of greengages, 
 when plentiful, 6d. per quart. 
 
 GREENGAGES, TO PRESERVE IN SYRUP. 
 
 Proceed exactly as in the last recipe, with the 
 exception of removing the stones before putting 
 the fruit into the syrup. Boil the fruit for three 
 days — eight minutes each day — and be careful 
 to skim the syrup well, both before and after the 
 fruit is put in. Blanch and slice a quarter of 
 the kernels on the last day^. and put them into 
 the pan. Turn the plums into jars, cover them 
 with the~ hot syrup, and tie them down securely 
 in the usual way. A pound of fruit is enough 
 for a pound jar. 
 
 GREENGAGES, WITH CREAM. 
 
 Put two dozen sound ripe greengages in a 
 stewpan with ten ounces of loaf sugar and half 
 a pint of water. Put the pan on the fire with 
 the lid on, and when the sugar is melted, sim- 
 mer slowly for ten minutes, shaking the pan 
 gently two or three times. Lift out the green- 
 gages one by one, so as to avoid breaking them, 
 and put them into a glass dish. Strain the 
 syrup, rinse and wipe the pan, pour the liquid 
 back again, put on the fire, and boil until it 
 is reduced to about half. Skim well, add a 
 drop or two of spinach-juice to give the syrup a 
 good colour ; let it cool a little and pour it over 
 the fruit. Whip stifily a pint of good cream, and 
 serve it separately in custard cups. Probable 
 cost, 2s. 3d. 
 
 GREEN ICING. 
 
 Take a handful of young spinach-leaves, wash 
 them thoroughly, and put them, while wet, into 
 a mortar, and bruise them until the juice can 
 be squeezed out. Whisk the white of a fresh 
 egg to a firm froth ; add, gradually, a quarter of 
 a pound of sifted loaf sugar, and the juice of 
 half a lemon, with as much of the spinach-juice 
 as will colour the icing sufficiently. Beat it 
 well, one -way, for half an hour, and add a little 
 more sugar, if necessary. Spread it smoothly, 
 and dry in a cool oven. Probable cost, 3d. 
 
 GREEN INDIAN CORN, OR MAIZE, TO BOIL. 
 
 Take a pint of corn before it is quite ripe, 
 trim away the husks, and boil quickly, until 
 
 sufficiently cooked, which will be in about half 
 an hour. Drain, serve on a toast, and send to 
 table as a vegetable, with melted butter, in a 
 tureen. A slice of butter, and a little pepper 
 and salt may be added, if liked. Sufficient for 
 three or four persons. 
 
 GREENING FOR SOUPS. 
 
 Wash a handful of young spinach-leaves, 
 pound them in a mortar, put the bruised leaves 
 into muslin, and squeeze out as much juice as 
 is required. The soup may be heated, but must 
 not be brought to the boiling point after the 
 juice is added, or the green will be converted 
 into a dirty yellow. 
 
 GREEN MINT SAUCE. 
 
 Take some young freshly-gathered leaves of 
 mint, wash and drain them, and chop them as 
 fine as possible. Mix a dessert-spoonful of 
 pounded sugar with a table-spoonful of chopped 
 mint. Leave it for an hour ; then add two table- 
 spoonfuls of good vinegar. Some persons put 
 two parts of mint with one of parsley. If time 
 is a consideration, the vinegar may be added at 
 once, but the flavour will not be so good. Prob- 
 able cost, 2d. Sufficient for three or four- 
 persons. 
 
 GREEN MINT VINEGAR. 
 
 Take some young freshly-gathered mint, pick 
 off the leaves, chop them slightly, and fill wide- 
 necked bottles with them. Pour over them 
 some good French vinegar, and let them infuse- 
 for two months or more. Strain through muslin 
 into small bottles, cork securely, and put aside 
 for use. 
 
 GREEN PEA SOUP. ' i 
 
 Put a quart of fully-grown green peas into a- 
 saucepan with three pints of boiling water and 
 a little mint, leave the pan uncovered, and boil 
 quickly till the peas are tender. Remove the 
 scum as it rises, press the whole through a 
 coarse sieve, and let it boil up once more. Add 
 a lump of sugar, and salt and pepper. Serve 
 as hot as possible. If it is preferred, half a pint 
 of the peas may be put aside after being boiled, 
 and added to the soup just before it is dished. 
 Add a little spinach-juice, if necessary. Peas 
 are in themselves so nourishing, that stock is 
 not needed for the soup, which will be a better 
 colour if water is used for it. Flavouring should 
 be judiciously added. Be sparing in the use of 
 herbs and spices, or they may overpower the 
 flavour of the peas. Time, one hour. Probable 
 cost of peas, 8d. per peck. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. 
 
 GREEN PEA SOUP (another way). 
 
 Take a quart of green peas, fully grown, and 
 put them into a saucepan, with two quarts of 
 water, three lettuces, an onion, four ounces of 
 lean ham, and a salt-spoonful of celery-seed, 
 bruised and tied in muslin, and a small sprig of 
 mint. Boil gently until the peas are soft 
 enough to pulp. Strain the soup, press the 
 vegetables into it through a coarse sieve, add a 
 tea-spoonful of salt and a table-spoonful of 
 spinach-juice if the colour is not good. Serve 
 as hot as possible. Time, one hour. Probable 
 cost, exclusive of the stock or gravy, 9d. per 
 quart. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
GRE 
 
 278 
 
 GRE 
 
 GREEN PEA SOUP, EARLY SPRING. 
 
 An excellent, nicely-flavoured green pea soup 
 may be obtained before peas are to be had, by 
 those who grow their own vegetables. Take 
 about four feet of a row of young plants a foot 
 high; cut them off close to the ground like 
 small saltd, and boil the leaves in two quarts of 
 stock until they are quite soft. Press them 
 through a strainer, flavour with salt and a little 
 pepper, and colour with spinach-juice, if neces- 
 sary. A quarter of an hour before the soup is 
 taken from the fire thicken it with a small lump 
 of butter, rolled in flour. Time, about one hour. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 GREEN PEA SOUP (maigre, or without meat). 
 
 Boil half a gallon of water, with a tea-spoon- 
 ful of salt, in an enamelled stewpan. Skim well, 
 and throw in a quart of fully-grown fresh green 
 peas until they are sufficiently tender, then 
 press all through a sieve. Put the hearts of two 
 lettuces, a handful of young spinach-leaves, a 
 sprig of p.'rsley, and a sprig of mint, all finely 
 shredded, and a large onion sliced, into a sauce- 
 pan, with about a quarter of a pound of butter. 
 Let these ingredients stew gently for half an 
 hour; strain the butter from them, and pour 
 over them the pulp, etc. Simmer half an hour 
 longer. Just before serving add a pint of young 
 green peas, already cooked. A sliced cucumber 
 is often added to this soup, and is an improve- 
 ment, but, of course, increases the expense. 
 Season with salt and cayenne, and serve as hot 
 as possible. Probable cost, 2s. for this quan- 
 tity. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. 
 GREEN PEAS (k la Creme). 
 
 Boil a pint of newly-shelled, fresh young peas 
 in the usual way. Drain them in a colander 
 until quite dry. Mix an ounce of butter and a 
 tea-spoonful of flour smoothly together, over 
 the fire ; add a quarter of a pint of good, sweet 
 cream ; when it boils, put in the peas for two 
 or three minutes, and serve as hot as possible. 
 Time, half an hour, altogether. Probable cost, 
 Is. 3d. Sufficient for three or four persons, 
 
 GREEN PEAS (a la Fran^aise). 
 
 Shell a peck of freshly-gathered young peas, 
 and put them into plenty of cold spring 
 water. Add a quarter of a pound of fresh but- 
 ter, and work the peas well with the hand until 
 they stick- together. Drain them in a colander, 
 and put them into a saucepan, with a little 
 pepper and salt, and a wine-glassful of water. 
 Let them simmer very gently for forty min- 
 utes, or until they are tender ; add two large 
 lumps of sugar dipped in water, and, when 
 they have been taken off the fire a minute or 
 two, the yolk of an egg beaten with a dessert- 
 spoonful of cold water. Probable cost. Is. 2d. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 GREEN PEAS FOR GARNISH, 
 
 (See Gabnish, Gbebn Peas fob.) 
 
 GREEN PEAS, PUREE OF, FOR GARNISH. 
 
 (See Gabnish, Pueee oi' Gbeen Peas,) 
 
 GREEN PEAS, TO BOIL. 
 
 Green peas, when gathered young, shelled just 
 before they are cooked, and dressed properly, 
 are amongst the most delicious of vegetables. 
 If they are very unequal in size, they should be 
 
 shaken through a coarse sieve, and the smaller 
 ones put into the water ten minutes after the 
 large ones. Throw them into plenty of fast- 
 boiling water, to which a table-spoonful of salt 
 has been added, and keep the pan uncovered 
 until the peas are tender. Taste them to ascer- 
 tain when they are sufficiently cpoked. Drain 
 the water from them. Put them into a clean 
 pan with a slice of butter, a little salt and a 
 tea-spoonful of sugar, and toss them over the 
 fire a minute or two, then serve. A sprig of 
 mint is often boiled with peas; this is by some 
 considered an improvement, and by others quite 
 the reverse. Great cave should be taken not 
 to put much soda with peas. -If the water is 
 very hard, a tiny piece may be put in, but too 
 much would quickly reduce them to a pulp. 
 Time, according to the age and size : young 
 green peas, fifteen to twenty minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, 8d. per peck, when in full season. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 GREEN PEAS, TO BOIL (a German recipe). 
 
 Put a peck of green peas into a saucepan, with 
 four or five young carrots scraped and cut small. 
 Sprinkle a little salt and pepper over them, and 
 add a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. Cover 
 the saucepan closely, and let them cook in the 
 steam. When they begin to shrink, dredge two 
 or three table-spoonfuls of flour over them, and 
 shake the saucepan well over the fire till the 
 peas are lightly coated with it. Pour a quarter 
 of a pint of good gravy on them, and stew until 
 tender. Cutlets may be partly broiled and 
 steamed with the peas. Time, half an hour. 
 Probable cost, 8d, per peck. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. 
 
 GREEN RAVIGOTE SAUCE. 
 
 Take one ounce of mixed chervil, one ounce of 
 green tarragon, one ounce of chives, one ounce 
 of burnet, and one ounce of parsley; pick and 
 wash these ingredients, and throw them into 
 boiling salt and water for two minutes. Put 
 them into a cloth, squeeze the water from them, 
 and pound them in a mortar with half a pound 
 of butter, mix them thoroughly, and put aside 
 for use. When wanted; stir one ounce of the mix- 
 ture into a pint of good bechamel or melted 
 butter; add a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar, 
 with six or seven drops of essence of anchovy, 
 and serve. If the sauce is not sufficiently 
 greened with the herbs, add a little spinach- 
 juice. Probable cost of thickening. Is. per 
 pound. 
 
 GREEN SAUCE, FOR BOILED CHICKEN. 
 
 Take a tea-cupful of spinach-juice, add the 
 juice of one lemon, two yolks of eggs beaten 
 up, and a t«a-spoonful of sugar. Just heat up, 
 but do not let it boil, and serve. 
 
 GREEN SAUCE, FOR DUCKS AND YOUNG 
 GEESE. 
 
 Put half a pint of gfreen gooseberries into a 
 saucepan, with a quarter of a pint of cold water, 
 and three or four lumps of sugar. Let them 
 simmer gently until quite soft and broken ; then 
 press them through a sieve, and return the pulp 
 to the pan, with a piece of butter the size of a 
 walnut, four table-spoonfuls of sorrel-juice, 
 made by pounding sorrel-leaves in a mortar, 
 and squeezing the pulp in muslin till the juice 
 
GRE 
 
 279 
 
 GRO 
 
 puns out. Simmer for a minute or two, tlien 
 add a glass of sherry or Madeira, and flerve very 
 hot. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the wine. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons-. ..... 
 
 GREENS (k la Cr&me?. 
 
 Wash and boil two young cabbages in the 
 usual way; press them between two plates to 
 drain the water from them. Roll a lump of 
 butter the size of an egg in some flour; stir it 
 over the fire with a wooden spoon till it is quite 
 smooth, but not in the least coloured. A.dd, 
 gradually, a quarter of a pint of cream, a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, half a tfcaTspoonful of pepper, 
 and the eighth of a nutmeg grated. Simmer for 
 ten minutes, and serve poured over the cab- 
 bages. Time, from fifteen to twenty minutes 
 to boil the cabbages. Probable cost, Is. 3d. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 GREENS, STEWED. 
 
 Take a bunch of fresh greens, wash in several 
 waters, and cut them into quarters. Drain 
 them well, and throw them into plenty of fast- 
 boiling water, salted and skimmed, and boil, for 
 ten minutes. Take them up, press the watet 
 from them, and put them into cold water for 
 half an hour. Drain them, tie them up, cover 
 with stock, and add a bunch of herbs, an onion, 
 one clove, a slice of fat bacon, and a little 
 pepper and salt. Stew very gently till tender. 
 Serve with mutton, lamb, or veal. Probable 
 cost, 2d. each. Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 GREENS, TURNIP, BOILED. 
 
 Put two table-spoonfuls of salt into a gallon 
 of water : let it boil quickly, and remove the 
 scum. Wash the greens in three or four waters 
 (removing the decayed outer leaves), and throw 
 them into the water. Leave the saucepan un- 
 covered, and boil the greens rapidly until 
 tender. Drain the water well from them, and 
 serve. If the water be very hard, a tiny piece 
 of soda may be added, but care must be taken 
 that it is tiny. If plenty of water is not 
 allowed, turnip-greens will be bitter. Time, 
 about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 4d. per 
 bunch. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 GREY MULLET. 
 
 , The grey mullet is a small fish, seasonable 
 during the heat of summer, and caught at the 
 mouths of rivers, and some way up them. It is 
 generally coHsidered inferior to the red mullet. 
 It should be eaten quite fresh, and niay be 
 cooked in any of the ways directed for mackerel, 
 which see. 
 
 GRIDDLE CAKE, AMERICAN. 
 
 The true American griddle cakes are made as 
 follows: — Boil a pint and a half of milk, and 
 gradually pour it on to half a pint of Indian 
 cornmeal. Mix together half a pint of flour, 
 one tea-spoonful of salt, one tea-spoonful of 
 cream of tartar, half a' tea-spoonful of carbon- 
 ate of soda, and two table-spoonfuls of sugar. 
 When the scalded cornmeal is cool, add to it 
 the flour, etc., and two eggs well beaten. Have 
 the frying-pan ready, very hot, and put a tea- 
 spoonful of butter into it. When this is hot, 
 pour in a table-spoonful of the mixture, and 
 fry on both sides until brown. (See also Ameri- 
 can Bbeakfast OB Gbiddle Caees.) 
 
 GRILLON SAUCE. 
 
 Melt two ounces of butter in a stewpan, then 
 rub' in a spoonful of fiour; stir it about, and 
 add two table-spoonfuls of cream and one of 
 milk. Stir till 'quite smooth, then add about 
 a table-spoonful of minced parsley and shallot; 
 season with white pepper and salt; keep stir- 
 ring over the fire until quite hot, but do not let 
 it boil; and serve. It should be of the con- 
 sistency of thick cream. This sauce is a good 
 accompaniment to fillets of turbot, sole, or 
 whiting. Probable cost, 9d. 
 
 GRILLS, GRAVY FOR. 
 
 {See Gbavt fob Gbills and Bboils.) 
 
 GRILSE OR TROUT, TO POT. 
 
 Take half a dozen fish ; remove the bones, cut 
 off the heads, tails, and fins, wash, and wipe 
 them very dry. Pound in a mortar half an ounce 
 of Jainaica pepper, a quarter of an ounce 
 of cayenne, half an inch of whole . ginger, four 
 cloves, four allspice, and two chillies ; mix these 
 thoroughly. Put all in a bag, and .plape it on 
 the fish, which must be laid in a pie-dish, backs 
 uppermost. Strew a dessert-spoonful of salt 
 over them, and pour on them three-quarters of 
 a pound of clarified butter. Tie three or four 
 folds of paper over the dish, and bake in a 
 moderate oven for nearly two hours. When 
 cold, remove the bag, put the fish into a fresh 
 jar, and pour clarified butter over them. 
 
 GROSEILLES, SIROP DE. 
 
 Bruise two or three pounds of red currants, 
 and leave them in a jar until the next day". 
 Pour off the juice, and boil it gently, with one 
 pound of pounded loaf sugar to every pint of 
 juice. Skim carefully, and bottle for use. A 
 nice variation is made by putting one part of 
 raspberries to two of red currants. This syrup 
 is usefulfor flavouring jellies, or, if mixed with 
 water, it makes a refreshing summer beverage. 
 Time to boil the juice, a quarter of an hour. 
 Probable cost of currants, 3a. or 4d. per pound. 
 
 GROUND RICE CHEESECAKES. 
 
 Mix a table-spoonful of ground rice smoothly 
 with two table-spoonfuls of milk, and pour in 
 a quarter of a pint of boiling milk. Stir the 
 mixture over the fire for three or four minntesi 
 till it' thickens, adding first, one ounce of 
 butter and four large hiinps of sugar, which 
 have been well rubbed on the rind of a fresh 
 lemon. When cold, stir in the yolks of three 
 eggs, well beaten, and a dessert-spoonful of 
 lemon-juice. Line some patty-pans with a good 
 crust, or puff paste, three-parts fill them with 
 the mixture, and bake in a quick oven. The 
 cheesecakes may be dusted over with powdered 
 cinnamon, or grated lemon-rind, before being 
 baked. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost, 6d. for this quantity. Sufficient 
 for eight or ten cheesecakes. 
 
 GROUND RICE CHEESECAKES (plain) 
 
 Mix two ounces of ground rice smoothly with 
 a little cold milk, and pour on it a pint of boil- 
 ing milk. Put it into a saucepan, with one 
 ounce of butter, a tiny pinch of salt, the rind 
 of a lemon, and a little sugar. Stir the mixture 
 over the fire for five or six minutes, until it 
 thickens, then pour into a basin, and when cold 
 
GRO 
 
 280 
 
 GRO 
 
 add two well-beaten eggs. Line some patty- 
 pans with a good crust, three-parts fill them 
 with the mixture, strew a few currants over, 
 and hake in a quick oven for about twenty 
 minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for 
 about two dozen cheesecakes. 
 
 GROUND RICE CUP PUDDINGS. 
 
 Mix two dunces of ground rice very smoothly 
 with a little cold milk. Add half a pint of boil- 
 ing milk, in which the rind of a lemon has been 
 boiled, a lump of butter the size of ,an egg, and 
 sugar to taste. Stir the mixture over the fire 
 till it thickens, and when cold add three" eggs, 
 well beaten. Beat thoroughly for some minutes, 
 then pour into buttered cups, or small moulds, 
 and bake in a quick oven. Serve the puddings 
 as soon as they are taken from the oven, first 
 turning them out on a dish. Wine, or sweet 
 sauce, may be sent to table with them. Time, 
 about twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, 
 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 GROUND RICE OMELET. 
 
 Boil half an inch of stick cinnamon with half 
 a pint of milk, and stir into it, when boiling, 
 two table-spoonfuls of ground rice, which have 
 been smoothly mixed with two table-spoon- 
 fuls of cold milk. Simmer gently for a 
 quarter of an hour, and stir the mix- 
 ture briskly. Pour it out, remove the cinna- 
 mon, and when cold add four eggs, well beaten, 
 and sugar to taste. Beat the mixture for five 
 or six minutes. Divide it into three parts ; then 
 fry these in butter, until brightly browned. A 
 piece of butter, the size of a walnut, will be 
 required for each. Time, five or six minutes to 
 fry. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four 
 persons. 
 
 GROUND RICE PUDDING. 
 
 Put a pint of milk into a saucepan, with half 
 an inch of stick cinnamon, or the thin rind of 
 a lemon, or two bay-leaves. Let it remain 
 by the side of the fire till the flavour of the 
 cinnamon, lemon, or laurel, is drawn out, then 
 boil and strain. Mix with the milk two ounces 
 of ground rice, moistened with a little cold 
 milk, and stir over the fire till thick. Pour out, 
 and, when cool, add two eggs, slightly beaten, 
 and if liked half a wine-glassful of brandy. 
 Bake in a well-buttered pie-dish, in a moderate 
 oven. If baked too quickly, the pudding will 
 be watery. Time, about three-quarters of an 
 hour to bake. Probable cost, 5d., exclusive of 
 the brandy. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 GROUND RICE PUDDING (rich). 
 
 Mix two ounces of ground rice smoothly with 
 four table-spoonfuls of thick cream. Add half 
 a pint of new milk, which has been boiled, with 
 an inch of cinnamon, or the rind of a lemon. 
 Stir over the fire until the mixture thickens, 
 and add two ounces of fresh butter, two ounces 
 of sugar, and a tiny pinch of salt. Pour the 
 pudding into a basin, and when cold, mix with 
 it the yolks of three and the white of one egg, 
 and a wine-glassful of sherry, or half a wine- 
 glassful of brandy. Put some apricot, or any 
 other good jam, at the bottom of a buttered pie- 
 dish, cover with the mixture, and bake in a 
 moderate oven. Sift a little pounded cinnamon, 
 or pounded sugar, over the pudding before serv- 
 
 ing. This pudding may be eaten either hot or 
 cold. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost. Is., exclusive of the jam and 
 wizie. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 GROUND RICE SOUFFLE. 
 
 Mix three ounces of ground rice smoothly 
 with half a pint of new milk or cream. Put 
 it into a saucepan, with two ounces of fresh 
 butter, a quarter of a pound of sugar, a pinch 
 of salt, and the thin rind of a lemon, half an 
 inch of cinnamon, or any flavouring that may be 
 preferred. Stir quickly over the fire until the 
 milk boils, pour it into a basin, and when cool, 
 add the yolks of three eggs, well beaten. But- 
 ter a plain mould — and it is well to tie round 
 it a band of white paper, also well buttered, 
 which should be a good deal higher than the 
 mould itself, so that if the batter rises much 
 in the oven, it may not fall over the sides. 
 Whisk the whites of five eggs to a firm froth, 
 and add them the last ihiBg. Beat the mixture 
 for fully ten minutes after the whites are added. 
 Bake in a quick oven, and serve as soon as the 
 dish is taken from it. Have a hot napkin ready 
 to pin round the dish in which the souffle was 
 baked, and let a heated salamander, or red-hot 
 shovel, be held over it in its passage from the 
 kitchen to the dining-room. Time to bake, 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost. Is., if made 
 with milk. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 GROUSE. 
 
 Grouse abound on the moors of Scotland and 
 the North of England, and are shot from the 
 12th of August to the 10th of December. The 
 12th of August is the time fixed by law for the 
 commencement of the sport, so that any birds 
 used before that time are illegally obtained. 
 Grouse should be allowed to hang as long as 
 possible, the peculiar flavour for which it is so 
 much valued being wanting if the bird is cooked 
 too soon. After being plucked and drawn, it 
 should be wiped, but not washed, and trussed 
 like a fowl, without the head; though many 
 cooks still twist the head under the wing. 
 
 GROUSE (a I'Ecossaise). 
 
 When the birds are plucked and drawn, put 
 three ounces of butter inside each, but not in 
 the crop; put them down to a. clear fire, and 
 baste plentifully. Lay a slice of toast in the 
 pan under them a few minutes before taking 
 the birds from the fire. Parboil the liver, pound 
 it in a mortar, with a little butter, salt, and 
 cayenne, and spread it on the toast instead of 
 butter only. "Kme, about half an hour to roast 
 the gfrouse. Probable cost, variable. Sufficient, 
 a brace for five or six persons. 
 
 GROUSE (a la Financiere). 
 
 Boil the livers of the grouse tor ten minutes, 
 and pound them in a mortar, with three ounces 
 of butter, a shallot, finely minced, half a salt- 
 spoonful of salt, and the same of pepper, two or 
 three grates of nutmeg, one table-spoonful of 
 bread-crumbs, and four mushrooms. Stuff the 
 grouse with this forcemeat, truss and roast, and 
 baste them liberally. Put half a pint of good 
 brown sauce (see Gbavt Espagnoue) into a 
 stewpan. Add a quarter of a pint of stewed 
 mushrooms, and a pinch of cayenne. Let all 
 boil up together, and serve with the game. 
 
GRO 
 
 281 
 
 GRO 
 
 Time to roast the grouse, from twenty to thirty 
 minutes. Probable <;ost, variable, from 2b. 6d. 
 to 6s. 6d. the brace. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 GROUSE, CARVING OF. 
 
 Grouse is carved in the same way as a part- 
 ridge {see Partridges, Eoast, To Carve). The 
 breast and wings are considered the most dainty 
 morsels. 
 
 GROUSE CUTLETS. 
 
 Take a brace of young grouse, split them in 
 halves, remove the wing bones, and tuck the 
 legs inside. Season them with pepper and salt, 
 and fry them in a little hot butter till brightly 
 browned on both sides. Dredge a little flour 
 into the butter; add gradually a quarter of a 
 pint of gravy Espagnole (see Gravy Espagnole), 
 season rather highly with salt and cayenne, 
 simmer for ten minutes, and serve with gravy 
 poured over the grouse. Time, fry till brown. 
 Probable cost of grouse, variable, from 2s. 6d. 
 to 6s. 6d. per brace. Sufficient, a brace of birds 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 GROUSE, OR WOODCOCK, MARINADED (a 
 
 German recipe). 
 Hang the birds as long as possible. Pluck, 
 draw, and wipe them dry with a soft cloth, and 
 lay them in a marinade, made as follows: — 
 Mince an onion, and put it in a quarter of a 
 pint of vinegar, add a dozen peppercorns, 
 twenty juniper-berries, and three bay-leaves. 
 Let the grouse remain in this three days, turn- 
 ing them three times a day, and basting them 
 frequently. Stuff them with turkey forcemeat, 
 and lard the breasts with strips of fat bacon. 
 Put them down to a clear fire, baste frequently, 
 and serve with slices of lemon round the dish. 
 Time, about half an hour. Probable cost 
 of grouse, variable, from 2s. 6d. to 6s. 6d. 
 per brace. Sufficient, a brace for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 GROUSE PIE. 
 
 Line the edges of a pie-dish with a good 
 crust. Put a pound of rumpsteak, which has 
 been cut into convenient-sized pieces, at the 
 bottom, and lay a couple of grouse on these. 
 If the birds are large, they should be cut into 
 joints ; if small, they may be put in whole, or 
 in halves. Season rather highly with salt, 
 cayenne, and black pepper, and pour a quarter 
 of a pint of nicely-flavoured broth over the 
 grouse. Cover with a good crust, and bake in a 
 moderate oven. If the pie is to be eaten hot, 
 a little more boiling gravy, to which has been 
 added i table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and two 
 of claret, may be poured in before serving. 
 Time to bake, an hour, or rather less. Probable 
 cost of grouse, variable, from 2s. 6d. to 6s. 6d. a 
 brace. Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 GROUSE PIE (Scotch fashion). 
 
 In Scotland grouse and steak are often pre- 
 pared and fried in cutlets (see Grouse Cutlets), 
 and then made into a pie, as in the last recipe. 
 A few stewed mushrooms and hard-boiled eggs 
 are an improvement. When the grouse is par- 
 tially cooked in this way, care must be taken 
 that the pie does not bake too long. Time, etc., 
 according to the size. 
 
 GROUSE, QUENELLES OF. 
 
 (See Quenelles of Grouse.) 
 
 GROUSE, ROAST. 
 
 Pluck the birds delicately, being careful not 
 to tear the skin. Draw them, and wipe with a 
 soft cloth, but do not wash them. Cut off the 
 heads, and truss them like fowls. Put them 
 down to a clear fire, and baste them almost un- 
 ceasingly. About ten minutes before they are 
 taken up, butter a slice of toast, half an inch 
 thick, lay it in the pan under them, and serve 
 the bird upon this. Send brown sauce and 
 bread sauce to table with them, and browned 
 bread-crumbs on a dish (see Crumbs, Fried 
 Bread). The gravy should be lightly flavoured 
 or it will overpower that of the bird. Time, 
 about half an hour. Probable cost, uncertain. 
 Sufficient, a brace for four or five persons. 
 
 GROUSE SALAD. 
 
 Eoast a grovise, and cut it into neat joints. 
 Put these in a pie-dish, strew a little salt and 
 pepper over them, and pour on them the juice 
 of a lemon and two table-spoonfuls of Lucca 
 oil. Let them remain for three or four hours, 
 turning and basting them frequently. Wash 
 and dry thoroughly some fresh lettuce. This 
 should be done some hours before the salad is 
 wanted. The leaves should be well shaken, 
 placed in an impaiuted wire basket, and hung 
 in a cool, airy place, so that they may be 
 perfectly dried. A salad can never be a success 
 if there is any water hanging about it. Shred 
 the lettuce finely, and place a deep bed of it 
 at the bottom of the dish; arrange the pieces 
 of grouse neatly upon it, and ornament the top 
 with slices of hard-boiled egg, sprigs of pars- 
 ley, and, if liked, a little savoury jelly. Put 
 the yolks of two eggs into a basin, beat them 
 for three or four minutes, and add half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of 
 pepper. Add oil and vinegar (tarragon 
 vinegar is the best) until the sauce' is the 
 desired thickness, allowing six tea-spoonfuls of 
 oil to every one of vinegar. Begin with the oil, 
 and pour it in two or three drops at a time for 
 the first two tea-spoonfuls. Mix with a wooden 
 spoon. If properly made, the sauce will be thick 
 and smooth, like cream. Just before the salad 
 is served, pour this sauce over the grouse, and 
 amongst the lettuce. Put a border of curled 
 celery round the dish, and beyond that slices 
 of hard-boiled egg, and clear savoury jelly, cut 
 into rough dice. Time, half an hour to roast 
 the grouse. Probable cost, exclusive of the 
 grouse, about 2s. Sufficient for eight or ten 
 persons. 
 GROUSE SALAD (a la Soyer). 
 
 It is said that on one occasion, when severial 
 gentlemen had betted largely on the abilities of 
 certain chefs de cuisine, M. Soyer was uni- 
 versally acknowledged to have won the palm, 
 in consequence of the superiority of a salad, 
 made very much like the following: — ^Lay a 
 thin border of butter, about half an inch from 
 the edge of the dish on which the salad is to be 
 served. Put inside this, and on the bottom of 
 the dish, a deep bed of finely-shredded lettuce, 
 prepared as in the last recipe. Arrange over 
 this, very neatly, the joints of a brace of grouse. 
 
GRO 
 
 282 
 
 GRU 
 
 rather under-done than otherwise. Make a 
 dressing, by mixing together two table-spoonfuls 
 of finely-minced shallots, two of chopped tarra- 
 gon and chervil, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a 
 tea-spoonful of pepper, two table-spoonfuls of 
 pounded sugar, and the yolks of two eggs. Add 
 gradually, a few drops at a time, twelve 
 table-spoonfuls of oil, and four of chilli vinegar, 
 putting one of vinegar after every three of oil, 
 and beat with a wooden spoon until the sauce 
 is smooth and of the proper consistency. Keep 
 it in a cool place, or on ice, if possible, until 
 wanted. To garnish the dish, take half a dozen 
 hard-boiled eggs ; cut them in four, lengthwise, 
 and take a little piece off the end, to make 
 them stand upright; stick them on the butter 
 round the salad, the yellow part outwards, with 
 gherkins and beetroot cut into slices, and 
 stamped into shapes between the pieces of egg. 
 Pour the sauce over the dressing, and serve. 
 Time, half an hour to roast the grouse. Prob- 
 able cost, exclusive of the grouse, '2s. 6d. Suf- 
 ficient for a dozen persons. 
 GROUSE, SALMI OF. 
 
 Pick and draw a brace of grouse. Eoast them 
 for twenty minutes before a clear fire. Take 
 them up, and, when cold, carve them into neat 
 joints. Take off the skin and trimmings, chop 
 them small, and put them into a saucepan with 
 a bay-leaf, a small sprig of thyme, a sliced shal- 
 lot, and one table-spoonful of salad-oil. Fry 
 until lightly browned, then add half a pint of 
 brown sauce, and simmer gently for a quarter 
 of an hour. Strain the gravy, skim off the fat, 
 and add a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice, a 
 little salt and cayenne, and a glass of sherry. 
 Put in the grouse, and let them remain until 
 quite hot, but on no account let them boil. 
 Put the birds in the centre of a hot dish, boil 
 up the gravy, pour it round them, and garnish 
 with fried sippets. Probable cost, 8d., exclu- 
 sive of the grouse and wine. Sufficient for six 
 or seven persons. 
 
 GROUSE SOUP. 
 
 Koast a brace of grouse for a quarter of an 
 hour or twenty minutes ; then cut off the breast 
 and the best of the meat, and lay it aside. 
 Pound the rest of the meat in a mortar, and 
 fry it in a little butter with three ounces of 
 undressed lean ham, cut into dice, a chopped 
 carrot and onion, a bay-leaf, and a sprig of 
 thyme and parsley. When lightly browned, add 
 two quarts of good stock and the bones of the 
 grouse. Stew gently for an hour, skimming 
 caiefully to remove the fat, then strain the 
 soup, and add to it ^ table-spoonful of salt,' a 
 few grains of cayenne, two blades of mace, 
 pounded, and a little brown thickening (see 
 Geavt, Bbown, Eoux). Simmer half an hour 
 longer. A few minutes before serving, put in 
 the breasts, etc., of the grouse, cut into slices, 
 and a glass of claret. Make the soup hot once 
 more, and serve. Sufficient for seven or eight 
 persons. Probable cost. Is., exclusive of the 
 gfrouse and wine. 
 GROUSE SOUP (another way). 
 
 Take a brace of grouse, or any other game, 
 cut them into neat joints, and fry them in 
 butter till lightly browned, then put them into 
 two quarts of good unseasoned stock, with a salt- 
 
 spoonful of bruised celery-seed, or the outer 
 sticks of two heads of celery, three onions, with 
 two or three cloves stuck in them, and a table- 
 spoonful of ground rice, smoothly mixed VTith 
 a little cold water. Bring the liquid to a boil, 
 then simmer gently, and about twenty minutes 
 before the soup is taken off add a fresh young 
 cabbage, quartered. Simmer gently till the 
 game is tender. Season with a dessert-spoonful 
 of salt and a salt-spoonful of cayenne. A little 
 mushroom-ketchup and a wine-glassful of claret 
 may be added, if liked. Time, ten minutes to 
 fry the grouse; simmer the game until tender. 
 Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient for six 
 or eight persons. 
 
 GROUSE, TO HASH. 
 
 Take the remains of cold grouse, and cut them 
 into neat joints. Put the skins, bones, and 
 trimmings into a saucepan with two shallots, 
 sliced, and three ounces of butter rolled thickly 
 in flour. Shake the pan over the fire until the 
 butter is melted and lightly browned, then add 
 half a. pint of stock, a tea-spoonful of salt, half 
 a tea-spoonful of pepper, and half a blade of 
 mace, pounded. Cover the saucepan closely, 
 and simmer gently for an hour. Strain the 
 gravy, and return it to the saucepan with a 
 glass of claret. Let it boil up, then put in the 
 pieces of grouse, and when these are quite hot, 
 serve immediately, with toasted sippets round 
 the dish. The gravy must not boil after the 
 grouse is put in. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive 
 of the grouse and wine. Sufficient for three or 
 four persons. 
 
 GROUSE, TO POT. 
 
 When grouse has to be preserved for sending 
 to a distance, or for any other purpose, it may 
 be potted. In this condition it will remain 
 good for three or four weeks, and is very highly 
 esteemed amongst epicures. Prepare the birds 
 as if for roasting. Season them rather highly, 
 and put inside each two ounces of bxitter. Lay 
 them closely in a pie-dish, and place small 
 lumps of butter here and there upon them. 
 Pour wine over them, port or claret is the most 
 suitable, and a small tumblerful should be 
 allowed for each brace. Tie two or three folds 
 of paper over the dish, and bake in a moderate 
 oven for an hour. When cold, drain, and dry 
 the birds, put them singly, breast upwards, 
 into small pots, and cover with clarified butter. 
 Sufficient, one brace for four or five persons. ' 
 
 GRUEL, BARLEY. 
 
 Wash a qviarter of a pound of pearl barley in 
 two or three waters. Put it into a saucepan 
 with four pints of water, and half an inch of 
 stick cinnamon. Simmer gently, until the 
 liquid is reduced one-half; then strain, and re- 
 turn it to the saucepan, with two large lumps 
 of sugar, and two wine-glassfuls of port. Keep 
 it in a cool place, and heat it as required. 
 Time, about an hour and a half. Probable cost, 
 3d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for two 
 pints and a half of gruel. 
 GRUEL, BARLEY (another way). 
 
 (uSee Bablet Gbuel.) 
 GRUEL, EFFERVESCING. 
 
 Mix a tea-spoonful of oatmeal to a smooth 
 paste with a little cold water, then pour over it 
 
GRU 
 
 283 
 
 GUI 
 
 half a pint of boiling water, taking care that 
 it is made thin enough to drink. Pour it into 
 a tumbler, and just before drinking stir into it 
 a pinch of bi-carbonate of soda and the strained 
 juice of a lemon. Drink during eifervescence. 
 This is a very good drink for a feverish cold. 
 GRUEL, OATMEAL. 
 
 Mix. a table-spoonful of oatmeal with two of 
 cold water. Stir it into a pint of boiling water, 
 and in a quarter of an hour strain off for use. 
 Season and flavour it according to taste. Time, 
 a quarter of an hour. Probable cost. Id. Suf- 
 ficient for a pint of gruel. 
 
 GRUEL OF PATENT GROATS. 
 
 Mix a table-spoonful of patent groats 
 smoothly with two table-spoonfuls of cold water. 
 Pour in a pint of boiling water, and stir for ten 
 minutes, or more, over the iire. Sweeten and 
 season, if desired. No straining is needed. A 
 small lump of butter boiled with the gruel is an 
 improvement, but in this, as well as the sea- 
 soning and flavouring, the taste of the invalid 
 should be consulted. Sufiicient for one per- 
 son. Probable cost, 2d. per pint. 
 
 GUDGEON. 
 
 The gudgeon is a small, but nicely-flavoured 
 fresh-water fish, chiefly used as a garnish. It 
 is in season from Midsummer to the end of 
 November. 
 
 GUDGEON, FRIED. 
 
 Cleanse the fish thoroughly, take out the in- 
 side, and remove the gills, but do not scrape 
 off the scales. Wipe them dry with a soft cloth, 
 dip them in egg and bread-crumbs, and fry 
 them in hot dripping or lard till nicely browned. 
 Time, about four minutes to fry. Probable 
 cost, uncertain. Sufficient, about four for one 
 person. 
 
 GUERNSEY BUNS. 
 
 Kub four ounces of butter into one pound of 
 flour. Add a pinch of salt and two table-spoon- 
 fuls of yeast, with as much milk as will form a 
 dough. Let it rise. Divide it into buns about 
 the size of an egg. Place these on buttered 
 tins, three inches apart, and put them in a 
 warm place. When they have risen to twice 
 their original size, bake them in a quick oven. 
 Time, about a quarter of an hour to bake. Prob- 
 able cost, a halfpenny each. Sufficient for eight 
 or nine buns. 
 
 GUERNSEY CAKE. 
 
 Eub six ounces of butter to a cream, and 
 work into it four ounces of flour and two ounces 
 of ground rice ; add a pinch of salt, a quarter 
 of a pound of ^nely-sifted loaf sugar, an ounce 
 of candied lemon, finely minced, two ounces of 
 dried cherries, and one ounce of angelica, 
 chopped small. When these ingredients are 
 thoroughly blended, add the yolks of four eggs, 
 well beaten, four di-ops of almond essence, and 
 a table-spoonful of brandy. Line a cake-tin 
 with oiled paper, and when everything is pre- 
 pared, add the whites of two eggs, whisked to a 
 firm froth. Beat all together for fiilly ten min- 
 utes, pour into the mould, and bake in a quick 
 oven. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour. 
 Probable cost. Is. 3d., exclusive of the brandy. 
 Sufficient for a two-pound tin. 
 
 GUERNSEY PUDDING. 
 
 Boil three ounces of rice in a pint of new 
 milk, with an inch of cinnamon, the thin rind of 
 a lemon, and three cloves, till it can be beaten 
 to a pulp. Sweeten it, take out the spices and 
 lemon-rind, and mix with it some apple mar- 
 malade, made by boiling six large apples, peeled 
 and quartered, with four table-spoonfuls of 
 sherry. When cool, mix the apples with the 
 rice, sweeten according to taste, and add the 
 whites of flve eggs, whisked to a firm froth. 
 Beat all together for ten minutes, pour the mix- 
 ture into a buttered pie-dish, and bake for an 
 hour and a quarter. Make a pint of custard 
 with the yolks of the eggs, and send it to 
 table cold with the pudding. Probable cost. 
 Is. 3d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for 
 six persons. 
 
 GWENDOLINE PUDDING. 
 
 Wash half a pound of figs, and remove any 
 stalks, then rub in a dry towel. Cut them into 
 quarters, place in a deep dish, pour over them 
 a cupful of water, and place in a moderate oven. 
 Let them steam till tender. Meanwhile soak 
 two ounces of . gelatine in half a pint of cold 
 water. Let the figs get cold, then drain off 
 the juice, and to the latter add sufficient milk 
 to make a pint of liquid. Heat this, but do not 
 let it boil. Beat three eggs into this, and 
 sweeten with half a cupful of sugar. Stir till 
 this is as thick as custard, but do not boil. 
 Add the softened gelatine, draw from the fire, 
 and stir till dissolved, add a pinch of salt, then 
 strain and set aside, putting in a few drops 
 of vanilla when cool. Place the figs in a glass 
 dish, pour the mixture over, and set sponge 
 fingers round. When set, decorate with cream. 
 
 GUINEA-FOWL. 
 
 The flesh of the guinea-fowl is excellent, being 
 both savoury and digestible; and, as it is in 
 season when game is out-^namely, from Febru- 
 ary to June — it forms a convenient substitute. 
 When well kept, it is not unlike the pheasant in 
 taste and appearance. 
 GUINEA-FOWL, BOILED, WITH OYSTERS. 
 
 Clean the fowl, and put about two dozen 
 oysters- inside it, with an ounce of butter, and 
 a pinch of salt and pepper ; truss it firmly. Put 
 it into a close-fitting jar, and cover with stock ; 
 stand the jar in a saucepan of boiling water, 
 and boil fast for two hours. When the fowl is 
 cooked drain it from the liquor, and cover it 
 with white sauce, or parsley and butter sauce. 
 
 GUINEA-FOWL SOUP. 
 
 Take the remains of a cold roasted guinea- 
 fowl. Pick off all the meat, and put the bones, 
 skin, trimmings, and forcemeat into a sauce- 
 pan, with two quarts' of stock, a slice of un- 
 cooked lean ham., an onion, and a salt-spoonful 
 of bruised celery-seed, tied in muslin, or the 
 outer sticks of celery, preserved for flavouring. 
 Simmer gently for two hours. Pound the meat 
 in a mortar, with a tea-spoonful of salt and half 
 a tearspoonful of pepper, and the eighth of a 
 nutmeg, grated. Strain the soup, and return it 
 to the saucepan. Add the pounded meat, and 
 a heaped table-spoonful of ground rice, mixed 
 smoothly with a little cold water. Boil twenty 
 
GUI 
 
 284 
 
 HAD 
 
 minutes longer, and serve with sippets of toast 
 sent to table with the soup. Probable cost, 4s., 
 exclusive of the stock and meat. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 GUINEA-FOWL, TO ROAST. 
 
 When the guinea-fowl is larded, it should be 
 trussed like a pheasant, but it may also be 
 trussed like a young turkey, with the head left 
 on. Fill it with a good forcemeat, put it down 
 to a clear fire, and baste it constantly, or the 
 fiesh will be dry. A few minutes before it is 
 taken up, dredge a little flour over, and froth 
 it nicely. Send brown gravy and bread-sauce to 
 table with the bird. Time, an hour, or a little 
 more. Suificient for four or five persons. 
 
 GURNET, OR GURNARD, BAKED. 
 
 The gurnet is a nicely-flavoured fish, with firm 
 white flesh, of an agreeable flavour. The head 
 is very large, compared with the rest of the 
 body. The most usual way of dressing it is to 
 stuff and bake it. Clean it thoroughly, and cut 
 off the gills. Fill it with a good veal forcemeat, 
 sew up the body, and fasten the tail securely 
 into the mouth of the fish. Butter a pie-dish, 
 put in the fish, cover it with slices of bacon, 
 and bake in a quick oven for half an hour or 
 more. Serve with anchovy or parsley sauce. 
 Sufficient, a moderate-sized fish for three per- 
 sons. Probable cost, uncertain. 
 
 GURNET, BOILED. 
 
 Empty and cleanse the fish thoroughly. Cut 
 off the fins and gills, and boil it gently in salted 
 water. Serve on a napkin, garnish the dish 
 with parsley, and send plain melted butter, or 
 anchovy, parsley, crab, or piquante sauce to 
 table with it. Time, about half an hour. Prob- 
 able cost, uncertain. Sufficient, a moderate- 
 sized gurnet for three persons. 
 
 GURNET, FILLETS OF. 
 
 Run the edge of a knife along the side of the 
 spine, lift the flesh from the bone, and having 
 thus removed the fillets, cut them into neat 
 pieces, rub some flour over them, dip them in 
 beaten egg, and roll them in bread-crumbs. 
 Fry them in hot fat till they are brightly 
 browned. Drain them on a cloth, to free them 
 from grease, and dish them neatly. Send any 
 of the fish sauces to table in a tureen. Time, 
 ten minutes to fry. Probable cost, uncertain. 
 Sufficient, a moderate-sized gurnet for three 
 persons. 
 
 GWALIA TOAST. 
 
 A long marrow bone is required for this. 
 Split the bone, remove the marrow, cut it into 
 inch pieces, and wash in cold water to remove 
 any splinters of bone which may cling to it. 
 Put a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice into a basin 
 with half a tea-spoonful of salt and ten drops 
 of onion juice, and place the bowl in a sauce- 
 pan of hot water at the side of the fire. Have 
 ready one tea-spoonful of minced parsley and 
 squares of thin l5uttered toast. Drop the pieces 
 of marrow into boiling salt water, and boil 
 quickly for two minutes. Skim it out, drop 
 into the basin of seasoning, add the parsley, 
 mix it carefully, spread on toast, and serve 
 piping hot. Probable cost, 8d. 
 
 H 
 
 HADDOCK. 
 
 The haddock is a fish which is deservedly much 
 esteemed, the flesh being flrm, rich, and delicate 
 in flavour, besides which it is cheap, and plen- 
 tiful. It seldom weighs more than three or 
 four pounds, and the largest fish is considered 
 the best. It should be gutted as soon as possi- 
 ble, and a little salt put into the body, which 
 should then be hung up to dry. Haddocks are 
 in season from June to January. 
 
 HADDOCK, BAKED. 
 
 Clean the fish, scrape the scales off, and till it 
 with a good veal forcemeat. Sew up the open- 
 ing with a little strong thread, and put the had- 
 dock into a pie-dish, with about two ounces of 
 butter, broken into small pieces; baste fre- 
 quently, and bake in a moderate oven. Serve on 
 a hot dish with parsley and sliced lemon. It is 
 an improvement to brush the fish over with 
 beaten egg, and sprinkle it with bread-crumbs 
 before baking. Send melted butter and anchovy 
 sauce to table in a tureen. Time, a moderate- 
 sized haddock, half an hour or more. Probable 
 cost, lOd. or more. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 HADDOCK, BAKED (another way). 
 
 Clean the fish, scrape off the scales, and fill it 
 with a forcemeat made by chopping the liver, 
 and mixing with it four table-spoonfuls of fine 
 bread-crumbs, an ounce of butter, a tea-spoon- 
 ful of mixed herbs, chopped small, half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and a quarter of a tea-spoonful 
 of pepper, bound together with the yolk ef 
 an egg. Sew the opening in the fish securely 
 with thread. Sprinkle a table-spoonful of 
 chopped onion and a tea-spoonful of chopped 
 parsley at the bottom of a pie-dish, and pour 
 over them an ounce of oil or clarified butter. 
 Season the haddock with pepper and salt, and 
 lay it on the minced herbs. Put the same quan- 
 tity of onion and parsley over as under it, and 
 pour on it a quarter of a pint of ale, stock, or 
 water. Place three or four lumps of butter 
 here and there on the fish, put a cover on the 
 dish, and bake in a moderate oven. Serve the 
 haddock in its own sauce. Time, a medium^ 
 sized haddock, from half to three-quarters of an 
 hour. Probable cost, lOd. and upwards. Suf- 
 ficient for three or four persons. 
 
 HADDOCK, BAKED (another way). 
 
 Wash the fish, scrape off the scales, and in 
 emptying it, open it as little as possible. 
 Sprinkle a little salt, and squeeze the juice of a 
 large lemon upon it; let it stand two or three 
 hours, turning it over once or twice during 
 the time. Mix the finely-grated rind of half a 
 lemon with two ounces of grated bread-crumbs, 
 add half a salt-spoonful of salt, half a salt- 
 spoonful of pepper, and a quarter of a small 
 nutmeg. Wipe the fish quite dry, brush it over 
 with beaten egg, and strew the seasoned crumbs 
 upon it. Put it on a wire drainer in a dish, 
 pour on it four ounces of clarified butter, and 
 bake it in a moderate oven. Baste it two or 
 three times during the process. Send the gravy 
 from the fish to table with it. Time, from 
 twenty minutes to half an hour to bake a 
 moderate-sized fish. Sufficient for two or three 
 
285 
 
 HAD 
 
 persons. Probable cost of haddock, 9d. and 
 upwards. 
 
 HADDOCK, BAKED (another way). 
 
 Clean and scale the haddock, wipe it very 
 dry, and fill it with a good veal forcemeat. Sew 
 up the slit securely with strong thread, dredge 
 a little flour and a pinch of salt over it, and 
 put about two ounces of butter, broken into 
 small pieces, here and there in the dish. Bake 
 it in a moderate oven. Mince, very finely, two 
 large gherkins, a table-spoonful of capers, and 
 three shallots; add half a salt-spoonful of pep- 
 per, and put these ingredients into a saucepan, 
 with half a pint of good brown sauce. Simmer 
 gently for five minutes, then add a tea-spoon- 
 ful of the essence of anchovy, and a table- 
 spoonful of vinegar. Lift the haddock care- 
 fully into a hot dish, garnish with parsley and 
 sliced lemon, and send the sauce to table in a 
 tureen. Time, from half to three-quarters of 
 an hour to bake a moderate-sized haddock. 
 Probable cost, 9d. and upwards. Sufficient for 
 three or four persons. 
 
 HADDOCK, BAKED, GRAVY FOR. 
 
 {See Geavy fob Haddock, Baked.) 
 
 HADDOCK, BOILED. 
 
 Wash the fish thoroughly, scrape off the 
 scales, empty it, wipe the inside, and fasten the 
 tail in the mouth with a skewer. Put two 
 ounces of salt into half a gallon of water, and, 
 when it is dissolved, put in the fish. Bring 
 the water quickly to a boil, remove the scum 
 carefully, then simmer gently until the eyes of 
 the fish start and the flesh leaves the bone easily. 
 Take it up as soon as it is eufficiently cooked, 
 or it will be hard and tasteless. Serve it on a 
 napkin, garnish with parsley, and send melted 
 butter and anchovy sauce to table in a tureen. 
 Time, according to the size — a good-sized 
 haddock will be boiled sufficiently in about 
 half an hour. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. Probable cost of haddock, from 9d. 
 upwards. * 
 
 HADDOCK, BOILED, WITH EGG SAUCE. 
 
 Shred two ounces of beef suet very finely, 
 and mix with it four ounces of finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs, a tea-spoonful of chopped pars- 
 ley, a tea-spoonful of thyme, and a shallot, 
 finely minced; add a little pepper and salt, 
 and a grate or two of nutmeg, and work all to- 
 gether with a raw egg. Fill the haddock with 
 this stuffing, sew it up with strong thread, truss 
 it in the shape of the letter S, and boil it in 
 salt and water. When done, take it up, drain, 
 and serve garnished with parsley. Boil two 
 eggs for seven minutes. When cold, powder 
 the yolks, and mix them with half a pint of 
 good melted butter. Add the whites, cut up 
 into small dice, boil up once, and serve' in a 
 tureen. Time to boil a good-sized haddock, 
 half an hour. Probable cost, variable, about 
 6d. per pound. Sufficient, » haddock weighing 
 two pounds for three or four persons. 
 
 HADDOCK, BROILED. 
 
 Draw and clean the fish, and wipe it , per- 
 fectly dry. Dip it in oil or clarified butter, 
 dredge some .flour over it, and broil it over a 
 clear fire on a gridiron. Turn it two or three 
 
 times, and when it is browned on both sides, 
 serve it on a napkin, and send shrimp, or 
 anchovy sauce to table with it. Time, ten or 
 fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 9d. and up- 
 wards. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 HADDOCK, BROILED (another way). 
 
 An easier way of broiling haddock is to par- 
 tially cook it in a Dutch oven before a clear fire, 
 and when the skin rises brush it over with egg, 
 strew bread-crumbs, dredge fiour on it, and 
 broil it as before. When browned it is done 
 ■enough. Put a small lump of butter on the 
 dish once or twice during the operation. It is 
 more easily kept whole when cooked in this 
 way. Time, altogether, half an hour. Prob- 
 able cost, 9d. and upwards. Sufficient for two 
 or three persons. 
 
 HADDOCK, COLD. 
 
 Put a piece of butter the size of a. large egg 
 into a stewpan, and when melted add a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, half a tea^spoonful of pepper, 
 one or two grates of nutmeg, and three-quarters 
 of a pint of new milk or cream. When these 
 are quite hot, add the cold haddock, which has 
 been lifted from the bones in neat pieces and 
 freed from skin, and eight or a dozen oysters, 
 chopped small. When on the point of boiling 
 turn the whole on a hot dish, and garnish with 
 sippets of bread. Time, about half an hour. 
 Probable cost, exclusive of the cold fish, 3s., if 
 made with milk. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 HADDOCK, COLD, CURRY OF. 
 
 Pick the meat carefully from the bones in 
 neat pieces, and remove the skin. Por a pound 
 of meat put a piece of butter the size of a large 
 egg into a saucepan ; when melted put with it 
 . two finely-minced onions, turn them about till 
 they are lightly browned, then pour over half a 
 pint of good, nicelyrflavoured stock. Put in any 
 bones or trimmings of meat that you may have, 
 and simmer gently for half an hour ; then strain 
 the gravy, and add a table-spoonful of flour 
 and a dessert-spoonful of curry-powder, mixed 
 smoothly with a little cold water. Boil again 
 for twenty minutes, and skim carefully. Put 
 in the fish, with a little salt and pepper, if 
 required, and when quite hot serve on a hot 
 dish, with a border of well-boiled rice round it. 
 Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold meat. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 HADDOCK, CREAMED. 
 
 Pour half a pint of boiling milk over a dried 
 haddock, cover it up, and let it remain for five 
 minutes; skin and bone it, and put it into a 
 small stewpan with two gills of cream and a 
 pinch of cayenne pepper. Let it get quite hot 
 again, then thicken with flour and butter, and 
 serve garnished with hard-boiled eggs cut into 
 slices. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 HADDOCK CROUTES. 
 
 According to the number of persons, take 
 some Aberdeen haddock, poach it in some milk. 
 Take out the haddock when cooked, break it into 
 small pieces and keep hot. Then reduce some 
 of the milk the fish was cooked in, and add egga 
 as for scrambled, then mix your fish; add a 
 little chopped parsley and shallot previously 
 
HAD 
 
 28C 
 
 HAD 
 
 dipped in butter, tlien serve up on croutes of 
 Hovis bread, fried in butter. 
 
 HADDOCK, CURRIED. 
 
 Clean and skin the fish, lift tbe flesh from 
 the bones, then divide it into pieces about three 
 inches long and one inch wide. For a fish three 
 pounds in weight put three quarters of a pint 
 of good, nicely-flavoured stock into a saucepan, 
 and thicken it with a dessert-spoonful of curry- 
 powder and a tea-spoonful of flour, mixed 
 smoothly with two table-spoonfuls of the gravy. 
 Mince two onions very finely, and put them 
 into the soup. Add a quarter of a pint of 
 cream or new milk. Flour the pieces of fish, and 
 fry them in hot lard or dripping till they are 
 brightly browned. Drain them from the fat, 
 and put them into the gravy. Simmer gently 
 for eight or ten minutes, skim the sauce, put 
 the flsh into the middle of the dish, pour the 
 sauce over it, and serve. Time, one hour. 
 Probable cost of haddock, 9d. or upwards. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 
 HADDOCK, FILLETS OF. 
 
 Divide the flesh from the bone by running the 
 edge of the knife along the side of the spine, 
 and take off the skin. Dip the fillets in beaten 
 egg, roll them in bread-crumbs, and then fry 
 them in hot lard or dripping. When browned 
 on both sides drain from the fat, and serve 
 them on a hot dish. Take a table-spoonful of 
 mushrooms, chopped small, a like quantity of 
 finely-minced shallots, and also of chopped 
 parsley. Put these into a stewpan with a 
 quarter of a pint of good brown sauce. Sim- 
 mer for a quarter of an hour, and serve in a 
 tureen. Time, ten minutes to fry the fillets. 
 Probable cost of haddocks, 6d. each and up- 
 wards. Sufficient, one moderate-sized haddock 
 for three persons. 
 
 HADDOCK, FINNAN. 
 
 (See FiNDON oe Finnau Haddocks.) 
 
 HADDOCK, FLAKED. 
 
 Boil a fresh haddock in the usual way, and 
 when cooked lift the flesh from the bones, and 
 let it fall into flakes. Season with pepper and 
 salt, and sprinkle a little lemon juice over it. 
 Have ready a cupful of white sauce (see White 
 Sauce for Fish). Toss the flsh and the sauce 
 together; arrange the mixture on a dish that 
 can be sent to table, put bread-crumbs on top, 
 and bake in a hot oven for about flfteen minutes. 
 Probable cost, from 6d., according to size of 
 fish. 
 HADDOCK, FRICASSEED. 
 
 Split a fresh haddock open, bone it, and 
 season the inside with pepper and salt and the 
 juice of a lemon. Put it in a fire-proof baking 
 dish with a few lumps of butter on top of the 
 flsh, then cover with a greased paper. Bake in 
 a moderate oven for twenty minutes, lay it on 
 a dish; thicken the liquor that flowed from it, 
 then stir in a table-spoonful of essence of 
 anchovies, and pour it over the dish. Garnish 
 with little heaps of picked shrimps and chopped 
 hard-boiled white of egg. Probable cost, from 6d. 
 
 HADDOCK, FRIED. 
 
 Wash and scale the flsh. Dry it well, cut 
 off the head and tail, and divide it into three or 
 
 four pieces. Take out the backbone, dip the 
 slices in beaten egg, and afterwards strew 
 bread-crumbs thickly over them. Fry them in 
 boiling lard or dripping till they are brightly 
 browned; drain, and serve on a hot dish. Gar- 
 nish with parsley and sliced lemon, and send 
 shrimp or anchovy sauce to table with the flsh. 
 Time, ten minutes to fry. Probable cost of had- 
 docks, 9d. each and upwards. Sufficient, one 
 moderate-sized fish for three or four persons. 
 
 HADDOCK FRITTERS. 
 
 Remove the skin and bones from a cold 
 cooked haddock, and put the picked pieces in 
 a bowl. To half a pound of fish add one ounce 
 of butter, two ounces of bread-crumbs, and a 
 teaspoonful of curry powder. Season with 
 pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and chopped 
 lemon-rind. Moisten with a well-beaten egg 
 and a little plain white sauce. Mix all together, 
 and shape into neat pieces, dip in beaten egg, 
 roll in bread-crumbs and grated cheese, put into 
 a frying-basket and fry in boiling fat to a 
 golden colour. Dish up garnished with fried 
 parsley. 
 
 HADDOCK, PICKLED. 
 
 Mix a table-spoonful of salt with half a table- 
 spoonful of pepper and a table-spoonful of 
 finely-chopped parsley. Take four good-sized 
 haddocks, wash and scale them, divide them 
 into slices an inch thick, and put them at the 
 bottom of a deep baking-dish, in layers, with 
 the seasoning and four finely-minced onions 
 strewn over each layer. Pour over all two pints 
 of vinegar and one pint of water. Lay two or 
 three bay-leaves at the top, cover the dish 
 olosely, and bake in a moderate oven. Let the 
 haddocks get cold, then pour over them some 
 melted lard or clarified butter. Keep the air 
 from them, and they will remain good some 
 time. Time, two hours to bake. Probable cost, 
 9d. each or upwards. 
 
 HADDOCK PUDDING. 
 
 Bone and skin two raw fresh haddocks, pound 
 them in a mortar, and rub them through a sieve; 
 then put the fish again into the mortar with two 
 eggs, a little parsley, an onion cut small, a 
 seasoning of white pepper and salt, a slice of 
 bread in crumbs, and a quarter of a pound of 
 veal suet or marrow. Pound all well together, 
 put it into a shape, tie it up in a cloth, and boil 
 it an hour. 
 
 HADDOCK, RECHAUFFE OF. 
 
 Lift the meat from the bones of a cold cooked 
 fish in neat pieces, remove the skin, and put 
 them into a baking-dish. Season them with a 
 little pepper and salt, and pour over them some 
 good melted butter, flavoured with essence 
 of anchovy. Allow a quarter of a pint of melted 
 butter to every pound of meat. Grate some 
 bread-crumbs on the top, and put little bits of 
 butter here and there. Bake in a moderate 
 oven. Serve on a hot dish, with pickled walnuts 
 as an accompaniment. Time to bake, about 
 half an hour. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of 
 the cold fish. Sufficient for two persons. 
 
 HADDOCK, rechauffe' OF (another way.) 
 
 Take the remains of cold haddock, remove the 
 skin and bone, and divide into flakes. Mix 
 
287 
 
 HAQ 
 
 thoroughly a tea-spoonful of finely-minced shal- 
 lots, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, half 
 a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful 
 of white pepper, with a pinch of finely-minced 
 lemon-rind. Put the flakes of fish into a baking- 
 dish, sprinkle the powder over them, and pour 
 on three table-spoonfuls of salad-oil. Grate 
 bread-crumbs thickly over, and bake in a 
 moderate oven. Brown the top, if necessary, 
 by holding a red-hot shovel or salamander over 
 it, and squeeze the juice of a lemon over before 
 setving. Time, three-quarters of an hour to 
 bake. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold 
 fish. One pound of fish is sufficient for two or 
 three persons. 
 
 HADDOCKS IN BROWN SAUCE. 
 
 Take eight or nine small haddocks; wash, 
 dry, and empty them, and put three of them 
 into a saucepan, with a quart of good stock, a 
 bunch of sweet herbs, a large onion, and the 
 thin rind of half a lemon. Cut the meat from 
 the remaining half-dozen fish in fillets (see Had- 
 dock, Fillets or), remove the skin, and put 
 the heads, tails, and trimmings into the sauce- 
 pan with the gravy. Simmer gently for an 
 hour and a half, then strain the gravy, season 
 it rather highly with spices and cayenne, and 
 brown it with a little brown roux (see Gravy, 
 Beown, Eoux fob). Put in the slices of fish, 
 and boil them about ten minutes. When suf- 
 ficiently cooked, lift them carefully out with a 
 slicer, place them on a hot dish, and pour the 
 gravy over them. A little claret may be added, 
 and it is an improvement to add also two dozen 
 oysters, with their liquor. Time, two hours and 
 a half. Probable cost of small haddocks suit- 
 able for this purpose, 3d. to 6d. each. Sufficient 
 for six or eight persons. 
 HADDOCK SOUP. 
 
 Take three haddocks, fillet them, and put the 
 skins, heads, tails, bones, and fins into a sauce- 
 pan, with two quarts of stock, a bunch of pars- 
 ley, two or three onions, and half a dozen pep- 
 percorns, and let them simmer gently for an 
 hour and a half. Strain the soup. Melt two 
 ounces of butter in a saucepan, add two ounces 
 of lean ham, cut into dice, let them remain until 
 brown, then mix in, very smoothly, two. table- 
 spoonfuls of flour. When this is brown, add, 
 very gradually, the strained soup, and simmer 
 for a quarter of an hour. Put in the pieces of 
 fish, and, when they are sufficiently cooked, 
 serve in a soup-tureen. A little ketchup or 
 Madeira may be added, if liked. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. Probable cost. Is. 5d. per 
 quart. 
 HADDOCK SOUP (another way). 
 
 Take a large fresh haddock, cut off the meat 
 in fillets, and divide these into neat pieces. Put 
 the bones and trimmings into a saucepan with a 
 quart of water, an onion, a carrot, and half a 
 dozen peppercorns, and let them simmer gently 
 for half an hour. Strain the gravy, flour the 
 slices of fish, and fry them in hot lard or drip- 
 ping till they are brightly browned. Put them 
 into the soup, and season it with salt, cayenne, 
 and a table-spoonful of ketchup. Serve in a 
 soup-tureen. Time, altogether, one hour. Suf- 
 ficient for two or three persons. Probable 
 cost. Is. 
 
 HADDOCKS, TO KEEP. 
 
 Scrape and wash the fish, empty them, open 
 them below the vent so that the blood may be 
 cleared from the backbone. Take out the eyes, 
 and put a little salt in the bodies. Let them 
 lie a few hours, then put a long wooden skewer 
 through the eyes, and hang them in a dry place 
 for a day or two. They may be cooked like dried 
 or Finnan haddocks (see Findon Haddocks). 
 Time, three or four days. 
 
 HADDOCK, STUFFED (a la Waterford). 
 
 Open a fresh haddock down the middle with- 
 out separating the two fillets, and take out the 
 backbone. Make a stuffing of whiting (see 
 Whiting Forcemeat), to which add some 
 chopped mushroom, and season with savoury 
 herbs. Stuff the inside of the fish with this, and 
 tie in form with string. Place in the fish- ■ 
 kettle with white wine and fish stock sufficient 
 to half cover the fish, boil slowly, and baste 
 often while cooking. Lift the fish when done ; 
 skim the fat from the liquor, and strain. 
 Add to the liquor the same quantity of 
 bechamel (see Bechamel Sauce), reduce to the 
 proper consistency, and thicken with cream. 
 Arrange the fish on a dish, and cover it with the 
 sauce. 
 
 HADDOCK, WITH POACHED EGGS. 
 
 Grill a haddock (see Haddock, Bboilbd), lay 
 it on a hot dish, put a little butter, salt, and 
 pepper over, and arrange some nicely-poached 
 eggs on the fish. Sprinkle a little finely-minced 
 parsley over, and serve. 
 
 HADDOCK, YORKSHIRE MODE OF DRESSING. 
 
 Take a perfectly fresh haddock, empty and 
 wash it, f ub it with a little salt, both inside and 
 out, and hang it in an airy, cool situation for 
 two days. Put it in a saucepan of boiling 
 water, and simmer it gently for ten minutes. 
 Take it up, drain it, remove the head and 
 the skin, dip it in beaten egg, or a little 
 thin flour and water, and strew over it some 
 rather highly-seasoned bread-crumbs. Pour a 
 table-spoonful of clarified butter over the fish, 
 and put it in a Dutch oven before the fire until 
 it is nicely browned. Boil an egg six minutes; 
 pound the yolk, and mix it with a quarter of a 
 pint of good melted butter. Chop the white into 
 small dice, stir them into the sauce, and serve 
 in a tureen. Time, a quarter of an hour to 
 toast. Sufficient for two persons. Probable 
 cost, 9d. or more. 
 
 HAGGETTY. 
 
 Wash a small cupful of sago, add a pint of 
 cold water, and boil slowly till clear, stirring 
 occasionally to prevent lumping. As it thickens 
 add two more cupfuls of water. Sweeten to 
 taste. Stir in four ounces of currants and two 
 ounces of sultanas whilst the mixture is hot, 
 pour into a wetted mould, and leave till set. 
 Serve with custard or cream. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 HAGGIS. 
 
 This dish, which is highly prized in Scotland, 
 and spoken of by her national bard as the 
 "great chieftain o' the pudding race," is made 
 from the stomach, or pluck, of a calf, sheep, or 
 lamb; that of the sheep, however, is most used. 
 
HAG 
 
 '2?8 
 
 HAK 
 
 It is boiled in the stomach-bag, and care shoulrl 
 be taken that no thin parts are left unrepaired 
 in the latter, or it may burst in boiling, and 
 the haggis be spoilt. For the same reason 
 care must be exercised that the bag is 
 securely closed. It is seldom eaten south of 
 the Border, except amongst Scotsmen. When 
 partly boiled a haggis will keep for two or 
 three weeks, and is often sent in this state from 
 Scotland to friends in other parts. Those who 
 have tasted it in perfection will agree that 
 a haggis is a most delicious morsel . 
 
 HAGGIS, ENGLISH. 
 
 Take the heart, tongue, kidneys, and part of 
 the liver of the sheep; and if this is not likely 
 to be enough, add the meat from a sheep's head. 
 Weigh these ingredients, and take half their 
 weight in fat bacon. Mince all very finely, and 
 add the crumb of a penny roll, grated, two 
 pounded anchovies, a tea-spoonful of minced 
 lemon-rind, and a little pepper and salt. Mix 
 thoroughly, and moisten with two beaten eggs 
 and a glass of wine. Take a well-buttered 
 mould, put in the mixture, plunge it into boil- 
 ing water, and boil for two hours. Turn the 
 haggis out on a hot dish before serving. Suf- 
 ficient, without the head for six or eight per- 
 sons. 
 
 HAGGIS, LAMB'S. 
 
 Take a lamb's paunch, thoroughly cleansed 
 and white, and see that it 'is quite whole; sew 
 up any thin places there may be in it, and press 
 it in a soft cloth, to dry it thoroughly. Boil 
 the pluck in water till it is sufficiently cooked, 
 then mince it finely, and mix with it a pound 
 of finely-shredded beef suet, a pound of oat- 
 meal, six or eight young onions chopped small, 
 a tea^spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of 
 pepper, a quarter of a nutmeg grated, two eggs 
 well beaten, and half a pint of milk. When 
 these are thoroughly mixed, put them into the 
 paunch, and be CEireful to leave room for swell- 
 ing. It would be safer if the haggis were tied 
 in a cloth as well as in the bag. Boil gently for 
 three hours, turn out on a hot dish, and serve as 
 hot as possible. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Suf- 
 ficient for six persons. 
 
 HAGGIS, MUTTON. 
 
 (See Mutton Haggis.) 
 
 HAGGIS, ROYAL. 
 
 (See Kew Mince or Haggis Eotai.) 
 
 HAGGIS, SCOTCH. 
 
 Take the stomach of a sheep, wash it well, 
 and let it soak for several hours in cold salt 
 and water, then turn it inside out, put it 
 into boiling water to scald, scrape it quickly 
 with a knife, and let it remain in water until 
 wanted. Clean a sheep's pluck thoroughly. 
 Pierce the heart and the liver in several places 
 to let the blood run out, and boil the liver and 
 lights for an hour and a half. When they have 
 boiled a quarter of an hour, put them into fresh 
 water, and, during the last half hour, let the 
 rest of the pluck be boiled with them. Trim 
 away the skins, and any discoloured parts there 
 may be, grate half of the liver, and mince all 
 the rest very finely; add a pound of finely- 
 
 shredded suet, two chopped onions, half a pint 
 of oatmeal, or, if preferred, half a pound of 
 oat-cakes, toasted and crumbled, two tea-spoon- 
 fuls of salt, and one of pepper, half a nutmeg, 
 grated, and a grain of cayenne. Moisten with 
 half a pint of good gravy and the juice of a 
 small lemon, and put the mixture into the bag 
 already prepared for it. Be careful to leave 
 room for swelling, sew it securely, and plunge 
 it into boiling water. It will require three 
 hours' gentle boiling. Prick it with a needle 
 every now and then, especially during the first 
 half hour, to let the air out. A haggis should 
 be sent to table as hot as possible, and neither 
 sauce nor gravy should be served with it. The 
 above is sufficient for eight or ten persons. 
 
 HAKE. ^ 
 
 Hake is a west-country fish, common in 
 Devonshire, and often sold under the name of 
 white salmon. It would be highly esteemed if 
 it were expensive; but as it is cheap it is little 
 used except amongst the poor. It may be 
 cooked in the sam€ way a-s halibut (see Hambut), 
 but it is certainly most palatable when baked, 
 as in the following recipes. If a whole fish be 
 bought, and is too large to be used in one day, 
 the thick part may be cut into steaks, and the 
 tail end salted and put aside. It is, however, 
 best when fresh. It is in season in the summer 
 months. 
 
 HAKE, BAKED. 
 
 Cut four pounds of hake into slices rather 
 more than half an inch thick. Dry them well, 
 and rub them over with flour. Grate four ounces 
 of stale crumbs of bread. Mix with them a 
 table-spoonful of finely-minced parsley, a tea- 
 spoonful of minced onions, half a salt-spoon- 
 ful of salt, and a quarter of a salt-spoonful 
 of pepper. Put an ounce of good butter or 
 dripping at the bottom of a pie-dish, and 
 sprinkle a little chopped parsley and onion 
 over ; then place the slices of hake upon it, first 
 covering them thickly with the seasoned crumbs. 
 Divide two ounces of butter or dripping into 
 little pieces, and lay them here and there in 
 the dish. Pour a quarter of a pint of gravy 
 or water underneath, and bake in a good oven. 
 Send the gravy cooked with them to table with 
 the fish. It is an improvement to grate a little 
 cheese over the fish before putting it in the 
 oven. If the flavour of the onions is disliked, 
 they should be omitted, and a small bunch of 
 sweet herbs or a few chopped mushrooms sub- 
 stituted. Time, about half an hour. Probable 
 cost, hake, 3d. or 4d. per pound. Sufficient for 
 six or eight persons. 
 
 HAKE, BAKED (another way). 
 
 Take four pounds of hake, cut it into slices 
 rather more than half an inch thick, dry them 
 well, and strew over them two tea-spoonfuls of 
 salt, one of pepper, one of powdered ginger, and 
 two of finely-minced onions, or, if the flavour 
 of these is not liked, two tea-spoonfuls of pow- 
 dered herbs, two-thirds parsley and one-third 
 thyme. Put a piece of butter or good dripping 
 the size of an egg into a deep dish, lay the slices 
 of fish upon it. Make some sauce by mixing 
 two ounces of flour smoothly with a pint of 
 milk ; boil the milk and flour, and with them an 
 
HAK 
 
 2S9 
 
 HAL 
 
 onion stuck with two cloves, and a pinch of 
 pepper and salt. Strain the sauce, pour it over 
 the fish, and bake in a good oven for half an 
 hour. A little scalded and chopped parsley may 
 be strewn over the top to improve the appear- 
 ance of the dish. Sufficient for six or eight 
 persons. Probable cost, 3d. or 4d. per pound. 
 HAKE CUTLETS, FRIED. 
 
 Cut two pounds of hake into cutlets, dry 
 them well, and dip them into a thin batter of 
 flour and water. Cover them with bread-crumbs, 
 and fry them in hot lard or dripping, until 
 brightly browned on both sides. Put them on 
 blotting-paper, to drain the fat from them, and 
 serve on a napkin. Garnish with parsley. 
 Melted butter, anchovy sauce, or gravy piquant 
 (see Gkavt Piquant) may be sent to table with 
 them. Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable 
 cost, 3d. or 4d. per pound. Sufficient for three 
 or four persons. 
 HAKE, FILLETS OF, FRIED. 
 
 Cut the fillets into convenient pieces tor serv- 
 ing, dry them thoroughly, dip them into oiled 
 butter, then egg and bread-crumb them, and 
 fry them in boiling fat for five minutes. Arrange 
 tastefully upon a hot dish, and garnish with 
 picked shrimps and parsley. 
 HAKE SOUP. 
 
 Cut five pounds of hake into neat slices, and 
 put these into a stewpan with a carrot, a turnip, 
 an onion, a handful of parsley, half a blade of 
 mace, two tea-spoonfuls of salt, one tea-spoonful 
 of pepper, half a tea-spoonful of bruised celery- 
 seed, tied in muslin, and two quarts of cold 
 water. When the soup has boiled a, quarter of 
 an hour, take out half the fish, remove the skin 
 and bone, and cut into neat pieces, which must 
 be put aside until wanted. Return the bones 
 and trimmings to the saucepan, and simmer 
 gently for two hours. Strain the soup, thicken 
 it with a table-spoonful of flour, mixed smoothly 
 with a tea-cupful of new milk, and put it on 
 the fire again, and with it the pieces of fish 
 which have been put aside. Let them boil until 
 they are sufficiently cooked, which will be in 
 a few minutes, and take off immediately, or 
 they will break. Send toasted bread cut into 
 dice to table with the soup. Probable cost, 2s. 
 Sufficient for six persons. 
 HALF-HOUR DUMPLINGS. 
 
 Take half a pound of beef suet, free from 
 skin, and shred it finely. Mix with it half a 
 pound of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and add 
 two ounces of moist sugar, four ounces of cur- 
 rants, cleaned and picked, the rind of half a 
 lemon, finely-minced, a quarter of a nutmeg, 
 grated, a pinch of salt, a tea-spoonful of baking- 
 powder, and a table-spoonful of flour. Mix 
 thoroughly, work to a light paste with two well- 
 beaten eggs, and a little water, if necessary. 
 Divide the mixture into small balls, tie each 
 ball in a small floured cloth, and boil for half an 
 hour. Turn them out, and send sweetened sauce 
 to table with the dumplings. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. Probable cost, lOd. 
 
 HALF-PAY PUDDING. 
 
 Take half a pound of flour and half a pound 
 of bread-crumbs, mix them along with sufficient 
 salt and a tea-spoonful of baking powder; add 
 T 
 
 half a pound of chopped suet, six ounces of 
 currants, six ounces of sultanas or raisins, three 
 table-spoonfuls of treacle, and enough milk to 
 make a stiff batter; Beat all together for five 
 minutes, pour into a grreased mould or basin, 
 boil for three hours, or steam for four hours, 
 and turn out. Serve with a sweet sauce. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 
 
 HALF-POUND PUDDING. 
 
 {See Half-pat Pudding.) 
 HALIBUT. 
 
 This excellent fish is not prized as it ought to 
 be, probably on account of its cheapness. Its 
 flesh is delicate and wholesome, and rather 
 resembles turbot in taste. The halibut grows 
 
 BAKED HALIBUT. 
 
 to an enormous size, weighing sometimes as 
 much as a hundred pounds, but those fish are 
 the best which weigh from twenty to forty 
 pounds. The " tit-bits " are the flackers over 
 the fins, and the pickings about the head. It 
 is abundant in spring and summer. It is, we 
 believe, a favourite fish with the Jews. 
 
 HALIBUT (au Gratin). 
 
 Take one pound of the remains of cooked 
 halibut, remove all skin and bone, and flake it 
 into small pieces. Put one ounce of butter into 
 a saucepan, and when melted stir in a heaped 
 table-spoonful of flour ; add gradually a quarter 
 of a pint of milk and water in equal proportions, 
 stirring all the time ; season with pepper, and 
 salt. When smooth take it off the fire, butter 
 some scallop shells, sprinkle them with bread- 
 crumbs, lay a little of the fish in each, moisten 
 with a dessert-spoonful of the sauce, add some 
 more fish, then sauce, sprinkle with bread- 
 crumbs, then put a few specks of butter on top 
 of each, and bake in a sharp oven for five 
 minutes. 
 HALIBUT, BAKED. 
 
 Put the head and shoulders of a moderate- 
 sized halibut into a well-buttered baking-dish, 
 dredge some flour over, and season them rather 
 highly with salt, pepper, and powdered mace. 
 Put four or five good-sized lumps of butter upon 
 the fish, and bake in a moderate oven until suf- 
 ficiently cooked, which will be in about an hour. 
 Thicken the gravy which runs from the fish 
 with flour and butter, and serve it in the dish 
 with the halibut. Shrimp or anchovy sauce may 
 be sent to table with it. Probable cost, about 
 6d. or 8d. per pound. Sufficient for flve or six 
 persons. 
 HALIBUT, BOILED. 
 
 This is the least satisfactory mode of cook- 
 ing halibut. It is much better fried, baked, or 
 
HAL. 
 
 290 
 
 HAM 
 
 made into a pie. Put five ounces of salt into 
 a gallon of water. As soon as it is dissolved 
 put in the fish, which must be in one piece, with 
 the fins taken off. Bring the water to a boil, 
 skim carefully, and simmer gently until the 
 flesh of the fish will part easily from the bone. 
 Serve on a hot napkin, garnish with parsley 
 and sliced lemon, and send melted butter, and 
 anchovy or shrimp sauce, to table with the 
 halibut. Time for a piece weighing four 
 pounds, twenty to thirty minutes. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. Probable cost, 6d. or 
 8d. per pound. 
 
 HALIBUT COLLOPS, BAKED. 
 
 Cut four pounds of halibut into slices about 
 half an inch in thickness. Sprinkle over these 
 two tea-spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, one 
 of ginger, and two of chopped onions or 
 powdered herbs. Put them into a pie-dish, with 
 two ounces of dripping or fat, and pour over 
 them a sauce made by boiling two ounces of 
 flour with a pint of milk until smooth. An 
 onion stuck with cloves may be put into the 
 dish with the milk, to flavour it. Bake half an 
 hour in a moderate oven, and send the sauce 
 to table with the fish, first strewing over it 
 two tea-spoonfuls of finely-chopped parsley. 
 Probable cost, 6d. or 8d. per pound. Sufficient 
 for six ot eight persons. 
 
 HALIBUT, CURRIED SLICES OF. 
 
 Take four pounds of halibut, cut it into 
 slices three-quarters of an inch in thickness. 
 Leave the skin on, flour them well, and fry in 
 hot butter or lard till they are brightly browned. 
 Have ready a pint of good beef stock, nicely 
 flavoured. Thicken it wi^h a table-spoonful of 
 curry-powder, and a table-spoonful of ground 
 rice, mixed smoothly with a little stock, and 
 afterwards added to the rest. Let it boil, and 
 put with it a. quarter of a pint of good cream 
 or new milk. Stew the slices of fish until they 
 are tender, pile them on a hot dish, let the 
 sauce boil, ?nd pour it hot over them. Serve 
 with a border of boiled rice round the dish. 
 Time, altogether, one hour. Probable cost, 6d. or 
 8d. per pound. Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 HALIBUT CUTLETS. 
 
 Put the halibut, before cutting it into slices, 
 into a dish, strew a little salt over it, and 
 three-parts fill the dish with water. When the 
 fish has been soaking about an hour, take it 
 out, dry it, and cut it into slices, not more than 
 half an inch thick. Make a thin batter of flour 
 and water, dip the slices of fish in this, and 
 afterwards put them into the frying-pan, with 
 hot fat. When one side is browned, turn over 
 with a slicer upon the other. Drain the cutlets 
 on blotting-paper, dish on a napkin, and serve 
 with anchovy, shrimp, or any other fish sauce 
 that may be preferred. Halibut cutlets are 
 very good with nothing but a lemon squeezed 
 over them. A few bread-crumbs seasoned with 
 pepper and salt only may be strewn over them 
 before frying. Time, ten or twelve minutes. 
 Probable cost, 6d. or 8d. per pound. Sufficient, 
 four pounds for six or seven persons. 
 
 HALIBUT, FRIED. 
 
 Cut some fillets from a halibut, dry them 
 thoroughly, then egg and bread-crumb them. 
 
 and fry them in boiling fat for six or seven 
 minutes. Dish up in the form of a circle with 
 crisp parsley in the centre. Garnish with a cut 
 lemon and capsicums, and serve with a piquant 
 sauce. {See Piquant Sauce.) 
 
 HALIBUT PIE. 
 
 Take four pounds of fresh halibut (the middle 
 of- the fish is the best for this purpose), season 
 it with salt, pepper, cayenne, and powdered 
 mace. Take off the skin, cut the flesh into 
 thick slices, and put these into a pie-dish, with 
 a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, broken 
 into pieces, and- two table-spoonfuls of anchovy 
 sauce. Line the edges of the dish with pastry, 
 and cover with a good crust. Bake in a good 
 oven for one hour or more. Sufficient for six 
 or seven persons. Probable cost of halibut, 
 6d. or 8d. per pound. 
 
 HALIBUT SALAD. 
 
 Chop very fine one pound of cooked halibut, 
 season with a few drops of onion juice, two tea- 
 spoonfuls of lemon juice, half a tea-spoonful of 
 paprika, one and a half tea-spoonfuls of salt, 
 and a. few grains of cayenne ; add one-third of 
 a cup of thick cream, which has been beaten 
 until stiff, and the whites of three well-beaten 
 eggs. Put into buttered timbale moulds, and 
 cook in the oven until firm. When quite cold 
 remove from the moulds, arrange on salad dish, 
 garnish with mayonnaise around and on top of 
 fish, and shrimps at the base. 
 
 HALIBUT STEAKS. 
 
 Dry the halibut thoroughly, and cut it into 
 neat steaks about one inch thick; dredge them 
 with flour, dip them in the yolk of a beaten egg, 
 then in fine bread-crumbs, and fry in hot lard 
 for about ten minutes. Garnish with crisp 
 parsley and chillies. 
 
 HALIBUT, STEWED. 
 
 Put the head and shoulders of a halibut, 
 weighing about five pounds, into a saucepan, 
 with just as much beer as will barely cover it. 
 Add an onion stuck with two cloves, a sprig of 
 parsley, a tea-spoonful and a half of salt, a 
 tea-spoonful of pepper, and two ounces of butter 
 rolled in flour. Let the fish stew gently until 
 tender, which will take about half an hour. 
 Take it out carefully, drain it, and thicken the 
 sauce with a little flour and butter. Add a tea- 
 spoonful of lemon-juice, and a tea-spoonful of 
 mushroom ketchup. Let it boil, pour a little 
 in the dish with the fish, and send the rest to 
 table in a tureen. Probable cost, 6d. or 8d. per 
 pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 HALIBUT, STUFFED AND BAKED. 
 
 Take about three pounds of halibut, clean it 
 well, and fill it with an oyster stuffing (see 
 PoECEMEAT OP Otsters). Bind it up securely, 
 lay it in a baking-dish, squeeze the juice of a 
 lemon over it, dot it over with little pieces of 
 butter, and bake in a moderate oven, basting it 
 continually. Drain carefully, and put on a 
 hot dish. Have ready half a pint of brown 
 gravy, boiling hot, pour it over the fish, and 
 serve. 
 
 HAM AND CHICKEN PATTIES. 
 
 Line as many small patty-pans as you re- 
 quire with puff-paste. Lay a crust of bread in 
 
HAM 
 
 291 
 
 HAM 
 
 each, put on the lid, brush over with well- 
 beaten egjg, and bake them in a quick oven, 
 until delicately browned. While they are 
 baking, take some ham and chicken, previously 
 finely minced, and freed from sinew and skin. 
 Of this, two-thirds should be chicken, and one- 
 third ham. Flavour nicely with grated lemon- 
 rind, salt, and cayenne. Put the meat into a 
 saucepan, with good gravy sufficient to moisten 
 it, squeeze over it a few drops of lemon-juice, 
 and when the patties are sufficiently baked, cut 
 off the top, remove the bread, put in a little of 
 the mince, place the lid over it, and serve, piled 
 on a hot napkin, and garnished according to 
 taste. Time, a quarter of an hour to bake. 
 Probable cost, 3d. each. One pound of flour 
 and three-quarters of a pound of butter will 
 make sufficient paste for two dozen patties. 
 
 HAM AND CHICKEN, POTTED. 
 
 (uSee Chicken and Ham.) 
 HAM AND CHICKEN SANDWICHES. 
 
 {See Chicken and Hau Sandwiches.) 
 
 HAM AND EGG PATTIES. 
 
 Take a stale quartern loaf, remove the crust, 
 and cut the crumb into slices about an inch 
 and a half thick. Stamp these into rounds as 
 large as the top of an egg-cup, and make a 
 little incision with the point of a sharp knife 
 all round inside each ring, half an inch from the 
 edge. Fry these pieces of br^ad in hot fat till 
 lightly browned, scrape out the middle, put a 
 dessert-spoonful of minced ham in each, pre- 
 pared as in the last recipe, and place a poached 
 egg on the top of each. Time, three or four 
 minutes to fry the bread. Probable cost, ,3d. 
 each. A quartern loaf will make a dozen patties. 
 
 HAM AND EGGS, MOULDED. 
 
 Chop finely half a pound of cold boiled ham. 
 Mix with it half a pint of cream and the white 
 of an egg beaten to a froth. Mix well ; line 
 several greased moulds with the mixture ; break 
 a raw egg carefully in the centre of each, and 
 bake for ten minutes in a moderately quick 
 oven. If baked in tin moulds it will be neces- 
 sary to turn out before serving, but this is so 
 difficult to do without breaking the eggs that it 
 is better to use earthenware fireproof dishes in 
 which they may be served. 
 
 HAM AND EGGS, SAVOURY. 
 
 Take three eggs, separate the whites from 
 the yolks, putting them into different basins. 
 Beat the yolks, add half a gill of milk, a pinch 
 of pepper and mustard, parsley, and sweet 
 herbs, and mix this with three ounces of minced 
 cooked ham ; pour into a buttered pie-dish. 
 Whisk the whites to a stiff froth, mix care- 
 fully with one ounce of minced cooked ham, 
 and put it in a heap on top of the mixture in 
 the pie-dish. Sprinkle with a little pepper, and 
 bake in a moderate oven until a golden brown. 
 
 HAM AND FOWL, POTTED. 
 
 Take the meat from a cold chicken, and put 
 it into a mortar with half a pound of cooked 
 ham, fat and lean mixed. Pound these to a, 
 pulp, and season them with pepper and a very 
 little pounded mace. Put the bone and trim- 
 mings of the chicken into a saucepan, with a 
 small bunch of sweet herbs, half a blade of 
 
 mace, ana as much water as will cover thein. 
 Boil the meat down to glaze. Mix this and two 
 ounces of clarified butter with the pounded 
 meat. Put it into small jars, and pour clarified 
 butter over the top. Time, about one hour to 
 prepare. Probable cost. Is., exclusive of the 
 cold chicken. 
 
 HAM AND FOWL, POTTED (another way). 
 
 ■ {See Fowl with Ham, Potted.) 
 HAM AND LIVER, FORCEMEAT OF. 
 
 {See LivEB and Ham Fobcemeat.) 
 
 HAM AND MACARONI. 
 
 Boil half a pound of macaroni in slightly 
 salted water for about an hour. Whilst it is 
 boiling mince finely a quarter of a pound of 
 gammon of bacon, and grate a quarter of a 
 pound of Parmesan or other cheese. Drain the 
 macaroni, and fill a plain mould or cake-tin with 
 alternate layers of macaroni, ham, and cheese, 
 seasoning each layer with pepper and salt. Beat 
 two eggs with a little milk. Melt an ounce of 
 butter, throw it over the macaroni, and, lastly, 
 pour the eggs and milk over all. Bake for 
 half an hour in a moderate oven. Tie a nap- 
 kin round the tin, and send to table without 
 turning it out. 
 
 HAM AND VEAL, TO PRESS. 
 
 Take equal weights of veal and ham. Re- 
 move the bones, rind, etc., and cut the meat 
 into slices a quarter of an inch in thickness. 
 Pour a quarter of a pint of water into a deep 
 pie-dish, then fill it with alternate layers of 
 veal and ham, and season each layer with salt, 
 pepper, and pounded mace. Place a cover on the 
 meat, with a heavy weight upon it, and put it 
 into a moderate oven until it is quite tender. 
 Do not remove the weight until the meat is 
 cold. Both the bottom and the top layer should. 
 be composed of veal. A saucer should be put 
 under the pie-dish, to catch any gravy that th& 
 weight may force out of it. Time, about three- 
 "hours to bake six pounds of meat. Sufficient 
 for svs. or eight persons. Probable cost, 6s. 
 
 HAM, BAKED. 
 
 A baked ham is much more delicious than a 
 boiled one, and will keep better. Put a ham 
 into plenty of cold water for some hours. If 
 very hard and salt, twenty-four hours will be 
 necessary ; for an ordinary York ham from eight 
 to twelve hours is sufficient. Then soak it for 
 an hour in lukewarm water, wash it, trim it 
 neatly, and cut away all the rusty smoked parts. 
 Cover it with a coarse paste made of flour and 
 water, and take care to leave no loophole 
 through which the gravy can escape. Bake in 
 a, moderate oven. Remove the paste and skin 
 while the ham is still hot, cover it with rasp- 
 ings, and brown it before the fire. Time, ac- 
 cording to the size. A very small ham will re- 
 quire fully three hours, and a large one five. 
 The rule is to allow twenty-eight minutes to 
 every pound up to twelve pounds, and a quarter 
 of an hour for every pound beyond it. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. per pound. 
 
 HAM, BAKED '(another way). 
 
 Soak and prepare the ham as in the last 
 recipe. Put it in warm water for at least an 
 hour, then lay it in a deep pie-dish, with a 
 
HAM 
 
 292 
 
 HAM 
 
 quarter of a pint of nicely-flavoured stock. 
 Cover it with oiled paper, and afterwards place 
 a good thick coarse crust over it, as in the case 
 of a meat pie. Add a little more stock, if re- 
 quired. Bake in a moderate oven from three 
 to five hours, according to size. The rule is to 
 allow twenty-eight minutes to every pound up 
 to twelve pounds, .and a quarter of an hour for 
 every pound beyond that weight. Probable 
 cost. Is. per pound. 
 
 HAM, BEEF. 
 
 {See Beef Hams.) 
 
 HAM, BOILED. 
 
 Soak the ham in several waters. If very hard 
 and salt, twenty-four hours or more will be re- 
 quired; if not, from eight to twelve hours will 
 suffice. Lukewarm water will soften it more 
 quickly than cold. Scrub it well, and scrape off 
 the rusty, discoloured parts, but do . not cut 
 the skin if it can be avoided. Put it into a 
 large pot with plenty of cold water. If a bunch 
 of sweet herbs, two or three carrots, and a bay- 
 leaf are added, the lavour will be improved. 
 Let it be brought to a boil very slowly, skim it 
 carefully, and simmer very gently until suf- 
 ficiently cooked. If it is not intended to be 
 kept any length of time and still not to be cut 
 until cold, it may be left in the water for an 
 hour after it is done enough : this will improve 
 -the taste of the ham, but it will render it less 
 likely to keep. Lift it out by the knuckle to 
 avoid sticking a fork into it. Take off the skin, 
 strew over it some browned crumbs of bread, 
 roll a frill of white paper round the knuckle, 
 and send it to table on a dry, warm dish. If 
 -the ham is to be glazed, the bread-raspings must 
 be omitted. Preserve the skin, and place it 
 over the ham when it is put into the larder, as 
 it will keep in the moisture. Time, for a new 
 ham, twenty-five minutes to the pound is suf- 
 ficient, counting from the time the water boils ; 
 for an old one, twenty-eight minutes. Add a 
 quarter of an hour for every pound over twelve. 
 A piece of ham six pounds in weight, three 
 hours. 
 HAM, BOILED (another way). 
 
 Prepare the ham as above. Put it into a 
 saucepan, and with it a quart of beer, a pint of 
 vinegar, and as much water as will just cover 
 it. Carrots and sweet herbs must not be 
 omitted. Calculate the time which must be re- 
 quired to cook it according to the rule given in 
 the last recipe, and let the ham be simmered 
 two-thirds of the time, and baked in a mod- 
 erate oven for the rest. It must be skinned 
 and covered with bread-crumbs before it is put 
 into the oven. Time, from three to five hours, 
 according to size. Probable cost. Is. per 
 pound. 
 HAM, BRAISED (k la Fran^aise). 
 
 Trim, soak, and prepare the ham in the same 
 way as for boiling. Wrap it in a cloth, and 
 put it in a braising-pan with plenty of cold 
 water, three or four green onions, a sprig of 
 parsley and thyme, and four cloves. Calculate 
 the length of time which will be required to 
 cook it (see Ham, Boiled), and, when it is done 
 enough, drain it, and put it. into the pan again, 
 with a bottle of Madeira or sherry. Simmer 
 
 gently for half an hour. Let it cool in the 
 saucepan, and glaze the ham. Time, from three 
 to five hours, according to its siie. Probable 
 cost. Is. per pound. 
 HAM, BROILED. 
 
 Slices of ham for breakfast may be either 
 broiled on a gridiron, toasted, or fried. They 
 are, we think, best when toasted on a fork. If 
 broiled, the fire must be very clear. The ham 
 should not be more than the eighth of an inch 
 in thickness, and is better when soaked in hot 
 water for a quarter of an hour, and then dried 
 in a cloth before being cooked. Turn it as it 
 gets crisp. Time, five or six minutes to broil. 
 Probable cost. Is. 2d. per pound. 
 
 HAM, BURGUNDY, MODE OF PREPARING. 
 
 Soak and boil a ham as usual, but a trifle 
 under the time generally allowed. Take it up, 
 drain it, take off the skin, and trim it neatly. 
 Put it into a deep baking-dish, the fat side 
 uppermost, and pour over it some boiling sauce, 
 made of a. pint of good stock, three ounces of 
 sugar, and a bottle of wine (Madeira is the 
 kind generally preferred). Put the dish in a 
 hot oven, until the gravy is considerably re- 
 duced, and the ham glazed to a bright brown 
 colour. Send good brown sauce and onion 
 sauce to table with it. Time to boil, twenty 
 minutes to the pound ; to bake, about half an 
 hour. Probable cost of ham. Is. per pound. 
 
 HAM, CHOOSING A. 
 
 In choosing a ham, look out for one with a 
 smooth skin, sweet smell, and with the flesh 
 adhering firmly to the bone. It is best to 
 probe it with a sharp knife down the knuckle, 
 and near the thigh-bone, and if, when the knife 
 is withdrawn, the smell is fresh and savoury, 
 and the blade clean, the ham is good; if the 
 contrary is the case, it is bad. York hams are 
 generally considered the best. 
 
 HAM, CURED. 
 
 Do not let the pig be killed in either damp or 
 frosty weather, and remember that if it is not 
 fully twelve months old, the ham will not be 
 good. Let the ham hang a day or two after it 
 is cut up, sprinkle a little salt over it, and let 
 it drain for another day. Eub over it very 
 thoroughly a quarter of a pound of saltpetre, 
 two pounds of salt, and a pound of the very 
 coarsest sugar. Lay it, rind downwards, in a 
 dish, put the salt on the fleshy parts, baste it 
 frequently with the brine which runs from it, 
 and turn it every other day. It must remain 
 for four weeks ; at the end of that time drain it, 
 and throw some bran over it. It is now ready 
 to be either smoked or hung. If smoked, oak, 
 green birch, or juniper should be burnt under 
 it ; pine shavings would spoil the flavour. If 
 it is to be hung, let it be in a cool place ; watch 
 it carefully, and if any part should get rancid 
 and yellow, scrape it off, and rub the place 
 with pepper, salt, and flour, mixed together in 
 equal proportions. Three months should elapse 
 before the ham is cut. If it is hung in a hot 
 place, the ham will be hard and dry; if in a 
 very cold one, it will be a longer time before it 
 is ready to cook. If hams, when hung, seem 
 not likely to keep well, they should be put into 
 the pickle again, and kept there till wanted. 
 
HAM 
 
 293 
 
 HAM 
 
 and used aa soon as convenient. If the brine 
 should become slimy and disagreeable, it should 
 be boiled, or, better still, a freeh pickle made. 
 Probable cost of ham. Is. per pound. 
 
 HAM, CURED (an easy way). 
 
 Take five ounces of salt, five ounces of bay 
 salt, an ounce and a half of black pepper, an 
 ounce of saltpetre, and three-quarters of a 
 pound of coarse sugar. Dry these ingredients 
 before the fire, pound and mix them thoroughly, 
 and rub the mixture well into the ham. Turn 
 and baste it every day for a mouth. Drain dry, 
 and hang the ham in a cool, dry, airy place ; or, 
 if convenient, smoke it. Two or three hams 
 can be cured in one tub, the above proportion of 
 pickling ingredients being put to each. The 
 hams should change places every other day, 
 from the top to the bottom. Probable cost of 
 ham. Is. per pound. Sufficient for a ham 
 weighing fourteen pounds. 
 
 HAM, CURED (in the Yorkshire way). 
 
 Let the ham hang for twenty-four hours after 
 the hog is cut up, sprinkle a handful of salt 
 over it, and lay it on a board to drain. For a 
 ham weighing fourteen or sixteen pounds, take 
 one pound of common salt, half a pound of bay 
 salt, an ounce and a quarter of saltpetre, and 
 half an ounce of moist sugar. Dry these well 
 before the fire, pound them in a mortar, mix 
 them thoroughly, and rub them into every part 
 of the ham. Let it lie four days, turiaing it 
 every day, then pour over it a pound of treacle, 
 and leave it for three weeks ; turn it regularly, 
 and baste it frequently. At the end of that time 
 put it into cold water for twenty-four hours. 
 Wipe it very dry, and hang it in a cool, dry, airy 
 place. Probable cost of ham. Is. per pound. 
 
 HAM, CURED (M. Ude's recipe). 
 
 As soon as the pig is sufficiently cold to be cut 
 up, take the hams, rub them well with common 
 salt, and let them drain for three days. Dry 
 them, and for two hams, weighing sixteen or 
 eighteen pounds each, take a pound of salt, a 
 pound of moist sugar, and two ounces of salt- 
 petre. Hub the hams thoroughly with this mix- 
 ture, put them into a deep pan, with the skin 
 downwards, and turn and baste them every day 
 for a month, at the end of three days pouring a 
 bottle of good vinegar over them. Drain, and 
 dry them well, and, if they are to be smoked, 
 hang them high in the chimney, to keep the fat 
 from melting. " This," says M. Ude, " is 
 superior to a Westphalian ham." Probable cost. 
 Is. per pound. 
 
 HAM, CURED (Warwiclcshire method). 
 
 Rub two ounces of saltpetre well into a leg 
 of pork, and leave it until the next day to 
 drain. Put four quarts of rain-water into a 
 large stewpan, with a peck of pale dried malt, a 
 pound and a half of bay salt, two pounds and a 
 half of common salt, one pound of treacle or 
 moist sugar, and three ounces of sliced onions. 
 Skim carefully, and boil for ten minutes, then 
 pour the liquid through a sieve, hot, upon the 
 meat. Turn the ham, and rub it well every day 
 for three weeks, drain and dry it, and smoke it 
 for three weeks or a month. The ham should be 
 entirely covered with the pickle. Probable 
 cost. Is. per pound. 
 
 HAM, CURED (West Country method). 
 
 Take three or four hams weighing fourteen or 
 sixteen pounds each. Let them hang for a 
 day, then rub well into each one two ounces of 
 sal prunella, two ounces of saltpetre, and one 
 pound of salt. Put the hams into a deep pan, 
 and turn them over and rub them each day for 
 three days. Make a pickle by boiling together 
 three gallons of water, four pounds of common 
 salt, four pounds of bay salt, and seven pounds 
 of moist sugar. Skim thoroughly, and when 
 the pickle has boiled for twenty minutes, pour it 
 hot over the meat. The hams must be rubbed 
 and turned" daily, and their relative position 
 altered, the one at the top being put to the 
 bottom, and so on. At the end of three weeks 
 they must be drained and dried, and smoked, 
 if practicable. This pickle will be found ex- 
 cellent for beef, bacon, tongues, etc., and will 
 keep for several months if it be boiled and 
 skimmed each time it is used, and kept closely 
 corked. Salt and treacle should be added also 
 to make up for the strength evaporating. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. per pound. 
 
 HAM, CURED WITH HOT PICKLE. 
 
 Rub a ham weighing about eighteen pounds 
 with an ounce and a half of pounded saltpetre, 
 and an ounce and a half of brown sugar. Leave 
 it until the next day, then make a, hot pickle, 
 by putting one quart of strong beer or porter 
 into a saucepan, with two pounds of salt, half a 
 pound of brown sugar, an ounce of black pep- 
 per, an ounce of allspice, and a small piece of 
 sal prunella (purified saltpetre). - Pour this, 
 when boiling hot, over the ham, and let it re- 
 main for three weeks, rubbing in twice or three 
 times every day. Drain and dredge it, and, if 
 possible, smoke it for a fortnight. A ham cured 
 in this way has very much the flavour of a 
 Westphalian ham. Probable, cost. Is. per 
 pound. 
 HAM, ESSENCE OF, FOR GRAVY. 
 
 (See Geavt, Essence of Hait fob.) 
 
 HAM, FLAVOURING A. 
 
 The flavour of a boiled ham is much better, 
 as we have already said (see Ham, Boiled), 
 when one or two carrots, turnips, onions, a 
 little celery, and a bunch of sweet herbs are 
 boiled in the water with it. There is no waste 
 in this, as the liquid may afterwards be used 
 for soup. The ham is also more succulent if it 
 is left uncut until cold, and not taken out of 
 the liquid for an hour after it comes off the 
 fire. It must not, however, be left in until 
 quite cold. Many persons soak it in vinegar 
 and water, instead of water only, and think it 
 is improved thereby. 
 
 HAM, FRIED. 
 
 Melt a little bacon fat or dripping in a frying- 
 pan; put in the slices of ham, and fry them 
 very gently until done enough. Turn them 
 six or eight times during the process, or they 
 will be hard. 
 HAM, FRIED, WITH EGGS. 
 
 Cut the ham into slices of a uniform thick- 
 ness, and, if it is very hard and salt, soak it 
 for eight or ten minutes in hot water, then 
 drain, and dry it in a cloth. Cut off the rind. 
 
HAM 
 
 294 
 
 HAM 
 
 put the slices iu a scrupulously clean cold fry- 
 ing-pjin, and turn them two or three times 
 during cooking. Put them on a hot dish, and 
 if the fat is in the least discoloured, poach the 
 eggs separately (see Eggs, to Poach). Break 
 the egga, taking care not to break the yolks, 
 and slip them into the pan. Gather the whites 
 over the yolks with two spoons, to shape the 
 eggs like a ball. Take them up with a alicer, 
 drain them from the fat, and place them on the 
 ham. Serve as hot as possible. Time, seven 
 or eight minutes to fry the ham. Probable 
 cost. Is. per pound, if a whole ham be bought; 
 Is. 2d., if purchased in a smaller quantity. 
 Sufficient, a pound of ham and six eggs for three 
 persons. 
 
 HAM, FRIED, WITH TOMATOES. 
 
 Cut the ham rather thin, and when cooked 
 put it on one side to keep hot. Take the de- 
 sired number of tomatoes, cut them in half, and 
 fry them in the same fat as the ham. Sprinkle 
 them with pepper and salt while they are cook- 
 ing, and arrange them in the centre of a hot 
 dish with the slices of ham round. 
 
 HAM FRITTERS. 
 
 Take the bone of a ham from which no more 
 slices can "be cut, and pick off every part of the 
 lean meat, and the same quantity of fat. 
 Mince it finely, and with one pound of mince 
 mix two eggs, a cupful of finely-grated bread- 
 crumbs, and half a tea-spoonful of white pep- 
 per. Make a thin custard with two eggs and a 
 quarter of a pint of milk. Cut a roll of bread 
 into neat little rounds, and put them into the 
 custard to soak. Take them up with a alicer, 
 and put them into a frying-pan, with some hot 
 butter. When they are lightly browned, take 
 them out, spread the mixture thickly over them, 
 strew some grated crumbs over the top, and fry 
 them three or four minutes in butter. Prob- 
 able cost, 8d. for this quantity, exclusive of the 
 meat. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 HAM, GARNISHING AND ORNAMENTING. 
 
 The most usual way of finishing a ham when 
 it is not glazed is to draw off the skin carefully. 
 dredge bread-raspings all over the fat, and put 
 
 HAM GARNISHED. 
 
 the ham before the fire to become brown and 
 crisp. Fasten a frill of white paper round the 
 bone, and garnish with parsley or cut vege- 
 tables. When served hot at a large dinner, it 
 should be glazed (see Ham, Glazing of), or the 
 rind, while warm, may be carved in any orna- 
 mental device. White paper must be placed 
 
 round the knuckle. Aspic jelly is a favourite 
 garnish for cold ham (sec Ham, tvith Aspic 
 Jelly). If the skin is not ornamented, it 
 should be preserved to lay over the ham when 
 it is put aside, as it is useful for keeping in 
 the moisture. 
 
 HAM, GLAZING OF. 
 
 Remove the rind, and, to do so, take hold of 
 it at the thick end first. ■Trim the ham neatly, 
 put it in the oven for a few minutes, and press 
 a cloth over it to dry it; brush it over with a 
 paste brush dipped in melted glaze. The 
 colour should not be too dark. Two or three 
 coats are required. To melt the glaze, put the 
 jar whrch contains it into a saucepan of boiling 
 water, and stir it until dissolved. As has been 
 explained elsewhere (see Glaze), glaze is simply 
 strong clear gravy boiled to the consistency of 
 syrup. 
 
 HAM, HOT, WITH MADEIRA. 
 
 Boil a ham (see Ham, Boiled), and when it is 
 done let it remain for twenty minutes in its 
 liquor before serving. Place it on a dish, trim 
 it, and dust a little sugar over it. Mix a glass 
 of Madeira with an equal quantity of veal 
 stock. Put the ham in a slow oven, and baste 
 it with the Madeira-gravy to glaze it. Strain 
 the gravy, skim off the fat, add a little more 
 stock to it, and serve it separately. Garnish 
 the ham with vegetables, such as green peas, 
 spinach, artichoke bottoms, etc. 
 
 HAM, KROMESKIES OF. 
 
 Put half a pound of ox kidney through the 
 mincing machine, and mix with it three ounces 
 of bacon that has been cut in dice and fried, a 
 chopped onion, a carrot, a bunch of savoury 
 herbs, and pepper and salt. Put these into a 
 stewpan with a quarter of a pint of stock, and 
 boil slowly for ten minutes, stirring constantly ; 
 then rub the whole through a sieve. Cut some 
 raw ham into very thin slices about two and a 
 half inches sq uare ; put a dessert-spoonful of the 
 mixture on each of these, and wrap it up in the 
 ham ; close the ends firmly with a small skewer, 
 or tie round with a piece of firm string or 
 thread ; dip in batter, and fry. Drain, and gar- 
 nish with crisp parsley. 
 
 HAM, MINCED. 
 
 Take a pound of lean ham already cooked ; 
 mince it very finely, and mix with it a little 
 cayenne and a blade of mace, powdered. Put 
 it into a saucepan with two table-spoonfuls of 
 cream and half a pint of good veal stock. Stir 
 it over the fire for a few minutes until quite hot, 
 but it must not boil, and serve on buttered 
 toast. This is a good dish for breakfast or 
 supper. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for 
 two or three persons. 
 
 HAM MUFFINS. 
 
 Divide some muffins, and spread them with 
 fresh butter and a thin layer of made mustard. 
 Put over this a spoonful of chopped ham that 
 has been heated in thick brown sauce made 
 piquant by, the addition of chutney or hot 
 pickles. Toast on both sides, and allow to get 
 cold, or if preferred they may be eaten hot. 
 
 HAM, MUTTON. 
 {See Mutton Ham.) 
 
HAM 
 
 295 
 
 HAM 
 
 HAM, MUTTON, SMOKED. 
 
 Choose a large, fresli leg of mutton; have it 
 cut into the shape of a ham, let it hang for two 
 or three days, then rub it well with a pound of 
 salt, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, and 
 an ounce of saltpetre, pounded and made warm 
 before the fire. Be careful to cover the hole of 
 the shank with the mixture. Put it in a deep 
 dish, and rub it well with the pickle every day 
 for a fortnight, then drain and dry it; put it 
 under a heavy weight for one day, and hang it 
 in smoke for a week or more. It may be either 
 boiled or broiled. Probable cost, lOd. per 
 pound. 
 
 HAM OMELET. 
 
 Mince one ounce of ham very finely, and, if 
 uncooked, fry it for a minute or two in a little 
 butter. Break four eggs into a basin, beat 
 them well, and stir in with them the minced 
 ham and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper. 
 Pour two ounces of butter or lard into the fry- 
 ing-pan; when hot add the eggs, and stir 
 quickly until the mixture sets. Shake the pan 
 for a minute or two, to prevent burning, then 
 double up the omelet, and when one side is 
 brightly browned, turn it over on a hot dish, 
 and serve Time, five minutes to fry the 
 omelet. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for 
 three persons. 
 
 HAM OR BACON OMELET. 
 
 (iSee Bacon ob Ham Omelet.) 
 
 HAM OR BACON, TO CURE. 
 
 (tSee Bacon ob Ham, To Ctjee.) 
 
 HAM OR SAUSAGE, AND EGGS. 
 
 (/See Ham, Fbied, with Eggs; also Bacon and 
 Eggs.) 
 
 HAM, PICKLE FOR (to keep for some months). 
 
 Put six quarts of water into a large sauce- 
 pan, with four pounds of salt, three-quarters of 
 a pound of sugar, and three ounces of salt- 
 petre. Boil for twenty minutes. Skim thor- 
 oughly. When cold, pour it upon the ham. 
 This pickle will answer equally well for tongues, 
 beef, etc. The meat should be rubbed with salt, 
 and drained for twenty-four hours before it is 
 put in, and care should be taken that the liquid 
 completely covers every part. The pickle 
 should be boiled up every two or three months. 
 The time required will depend upon the nature 
 and size of the meat, and the degree of saltness 
 desired. A ham of fourteen pounds will take 
 about three weeks ; a tongue, ten days ; a large 
 piece of beef, a fortnight Probable cost of the 
 pickle, 6d. 
 
 HAM, POTTED. 
 
 Take one pound of lean ham and a quarter of 
 a pound of fat, or, in place of this, two ounces 
 of fresh butter. Pound the meat to a smooth 
 paste, and flavour it with a quarter of an ounce 
 of powdered mace and a pinch of cayenne. Press 
 into a dish and bake through gently. When 
 cold pour melted butter over. Keep in a cool 
 place. It may be used for breakfast or 
 luncheon, or for sandwiches. Any remains of 
 cold ham may be potted. Cooked ham need 
 not be baked. Lard or dripping should not be 
 poured over the ham while hot. 
 
 HAM, ROASTED. 
 
 Soak the ham until it is softened, then put it 
 into a deep pan, and pour over it a bottle of 
 Madeira, or any light wine, and with it four 
 carrots, four onions, and one dozen peppercorns. 
 Turn it over every two or three hours, and leave 
 it until the following day. Drain it, put it 
 down before a clear fire, and baste liberally 
 with the liquid in which it was soaked. It will 
 require four or five hours to roast, according to 
 the size. Take it up, skin, and glaze it; boil 
 up the gravy, etc., which should be sent to 
 table in a tureen. It is a good plan to boil 
 the ham for an hour before it is put into the 
 marinade, when, of course, it will not need to 
 be roasted quite so long. Probable cost. Is. 
 per pound. 
 
 HAM SALAD. 
 
 Slice up very finely two small onions, a let- 
 tuce pulled into small pieces, and some endive. 
 Put them into a salad bowl, and shave some 
 lean cooked ham on top. Sprinkle with lemon- 
 juice, dredge over with salt, cayenne, Jamaica 
 pepper, a little castor sugar, and a soup9on of 
 garlic. Add a little vinegar and oil, sprinkle 
 powdered hard-boiled yolk of egg over, and 
 serve. 
 
 HAM SANDWICHES. 
 
 Take slices of stale bread, two days old, and 
 the eighth of an inch in thickness. Cut them 
 neatly with a sharp knife, butter them, and 
 cover one slice evenly with thin slices of ham, 
 cut into pieces about an inch in length, and 
 from which all the skin and unpalatable parts 
 have been removed, Spread a little mustard on 
 the ham, and place another slice of bread and 
 butter on the top. Press them together, and 
 cut into pieces about two and a half by two 
 inches. Arrange them neatly on a napkin, and 
 garnish with parsley. Sandwiches are very good 
 made with potted ham, instead of plainly- 
 boiled ham. Probable cost of boiled ham, 
 2s. per pound. 
 
 HAM SAUCE FOR FLAVOURING GRAVIES, ETC. 
 
 Take the bone of a ham, from which no more 
 slices can be cut. Pick off all the meat, and 
 chop the bone into five or six pieces. Put it in 
 a saucepan with half a pint of good unflavoured 
 stock. Simmer gently for half an hour, stir- 
 ring occasionally to prevent it burning. Add a 
 bunch of sweet herbs, six peppercorns, and 
 another half-pint of stock, cover the sauce- 
 pan closely, and simmer again very gently fo* 
 two hours. Strain, and put aside for use. 
 This sauce will be found very useful in 
 flavouring gravies, sauces, etc. (see Geavt, 
 To Imped VE the Colotib and Flavoxib or). 
 Probable cost, 3d. per half -pint, exclusive of 
 the ham-bone. 
 
 HAM SAUCE FOR GRILLS AND BROILS. 
 
 Put two ounces of lean ham, already cooked, 
 cut into small dice, into a saucepan with an 
 ounce of butter and a tea-spoonful of finely- 
 minced shallots. Fry them for two or three 
 minutes, then add half a pint of good brown 
 sauce, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, and_a 
 little cayenne. Stir these over the fire for six 
 or eight minutes, and, just before serving, add 
 
HAM 
 
 296 
 
 HAM 
 
 a table-epoonful of lemon-juice. Suitable for 
 grills and broils. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient 
 for half a pint of sauce. 
 
 HAM SAUSAGE. 
 
 Mince about half a pound of ham very finely, 
 both fat and lean, with one-third the quantity 
 of fine bread-crumbs, an onion, and plenty of 
 pepper. Add two beaten eggs, mix all well to- 
 gether, and tie in a pudding cloth like a roly- 
 poly pudding. Boil slowly for one hour, and 
 when cold turn out of the cloth, glaze, and 
 garnish with parsley. 
 
 HAM SAUSAGES, SMOKED, GERMAN. 
 
 Take five pounds of lean pork, minced as 
 finely as possible. Mix with it a pound of fat, 
 also minced, but not quite so small, and season 
 it with half an ounce of pepper, the eighth of an 
 ounce of saltpetre, and three ounces of salt. 
 Add the seasoning gradually, while the meat is 
 being chopped, and moisten with a quarter of 
 a pint of claret or Burgundy. Let the meat 
 stand for six or eight hours in a cool place. Fill 
 the skins, properly prepared, as tightly as pos- 
 sible, pressing the meat down, and not leaving 
 any portion of space unoccupied. To ensure 
 this, they should be left for some hours, and 
 then pressed down again. Wind a piece of new 
 tape round them backwards and forwards once, 
 tie it at the end, and hang the sausages in cool 
 smoke for twelve days. They should be from 
 ten to twenty inches in length. They are 
 usually eaten raw, after being kept about a 
 month; but, if it is preferred, they may be 
 simmered gently in water for an hour either 
 before or after smoking, but they must not 
 quite boil. Time, two or three days to pre- 
 pare. Probable cost. Is. 4d. per pound. 
 
 HAM SCALLOPS. 
 
 Cut a pound of ham in scallops a quarter of 
 an inch thick, three inches long, and two broad. 
 Fry them in hot butter until lightly browned 
 on each side, drain them from the fat, and put 
 them on a hot dish. Pick the leaves from a 
 sprig of young parsley, wash it in two or three 
 waters, chop it small, and put a table-spoonful 
 into a saucepan, wit,h three ounces of fresh 
 butter, a little pepper and salt, and a table- 
 spoonful of lemon-juice. Put the mixture on 
 the hob, not on the fire, and keep stirring until 
 it is as thick as custard. Pour it over the 
 scallops, and serve. Time, six minutes to fry 
 the ham. Probable cost. Is. or Is. 2d. per 
 pound. Sufficient for three persons. 
 
 HAM SMOKED AT HOME. 
 
 When there is no chimney which can be used 
 for the purpose, hams may be smoked as follows : 
 — Fill an old cask, open at both ends, with oak 
 sawdust. Fasten a stick across the top, on which 
 the hams should be hung, and bury in the middle 
 of the sawdust a bar of red-hot iron. Cover the 
 cask, to keep in the smoke, and let the heat be 
 83 equal as possible, or the ham will be spoilt. 
 The length of time required will depend upon 
 the size of the ham. A large one should remain 
 four days. 
 
 HAM STEAKS. 
 
 Cut some rather thick slices from a York ham, 
 dredge with flour, and put them into a frying- 
 
 pan with a tea-cupful of water. Cook slowly, 
 turning them two or three times till the steaks 
 are of a light brown. Then lay them on a hot 
 dish. Thicken the liquor in which they were 
 cooked with a little tomato sauce, and pour 
 it over. Sprinkle with cayenne pepper, and 
 serve. 
 
 HAM TOAST. 
 
 Take three oundes of lean ham. Chop it very 
 small, and mix it with the beaten yolk of an 
 egg. Put an ounce of butter into a saucepan, 
 and, when it is melted, stir in the ham and egg, 
 season with cayenne, and, when the mixture is 
 quite hot, spread it upon a slice of hot buttered 
 toast. Serve at once. Time, three or four min- 
 utes to heat the ham, etc. Sufficient for one 
 person. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 HAM TOASTS, OR CROUTES AU JAM BON. 
 
 Cut some slices of bread about a quarter of 
 an inch thick. Scoop out some of the centre to 
 the depth of about an eighth of an inch, and 
 about two inches in diameter. Dip the slices in 
 melted butter, and cover with grated Parmesan 
 cheese. Cut some raw Yorkshire ham into pieces 
 the same size as the scooped out cavities of 
 the bread. Lay a piece on each, then put two 
 pieces together in the form of a sandwich ; put 
 on a baHng dish with a little clarified butter, 
 and bake in a moderate oven to a light brown 
 colour, turning over to let each side be equally 
 baked. Drain on a cloth, or blotting paper, and 
 serve hot on a napkin. 
 
 HAM, WITH ASPIC JELLY. 
 
 The best garnish for a cold ham that is in- 
 tended to be used at once is aspic jelly (see 
 Aspic Jelly), as it may be eaten with it. It 
 should be cut into dice, and the dish orna- 
 mented with it in any appropriate way. A few 
 carrots and pickles, stamped into shapes, may 
 be added. When a ham is expected to be kept 
 for some days, however, this garnish should not 
 be used, as it soon spoils. 
 
 HAM, WITH SAVOURY CRUST. 
 
 Instead of strewing plain browned bread- 
 crumbs over the ham when the skin is taken off, 
 a pleasing variety may be made by seasoning 
 them with a table-spoonful of sugar and five 
 or six powdered cloves. Put the ham in a 
 baking-dish, brush it over with beaten egg, and 
 strew the seasoned crumbs thickly upon it. 
 Place it in a hot oven or before the fire for a 
 few minutes to brown. 
 
 HAM, WITH STEWED VEAL CUTLETS. 
 
 Cut a slice of ham with each cutlet, and trim 
 them as nearly as possible to the same shape. 
 Cook them in the stewpan, and serve them with 
 the ham laid upon the cutlet. Dish them in a 
 circle, and pour the sauce in the middle. (See 
 Veal Cutlews.) 
 
 HAM, WITH WINDSOR BEANS. 
 
 Windsor, or broad beans, are a favourite ac- 
 companiment to ham. They should be boiled 
 until tender, then drained and steamed over the 
 fire for a few minutes, with pepper, salt, and a 
 small pat of butter. They may be placed 
 round the ham or on a separate dish; and, if 
 old, the skins should be taken off. Parsley and 
 butter should be sent to table in a tureen. 
 
HAM 
 
 297 
 
 HAN 
 
 Time, according to the age of the beans, from 
 fifteen to thirty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. 
 per peck. Sufficient, a peck of beans for five 
 or six persons. 
 
 HAMBURG BEEF (prepared in the German way). 
 
 Take about sixty pounds of beef, which may 
 be composed of seven or eight pieces. Mix four 
 pound-3 of salt with four ounces of saltpetre, 
 and rub the meat thoroughly with it. Take a 
 deep tub, see that it is scrupulously clean, and 
 wash it out with cold water. Put into it a 
 handful of the leaves of marjoram, sweet basil, 
 and thyme, the same of bay-leaves, a dozen 
 cloves, two blades of mace, a quarter of an 
 ounce of juniper berricB, and two ounces of 
 white pepper. Pack the pieces of beef on part 
 of this . seasoning, and sprinkle the rest over, 
 with as much of the salt and saltpetre as could 
 not be rubbed into the beef. Place a weight on 
 the top, and if, at the end of a few days, the 
 liquid doe's not rise over the lid, pour a pint of 
 strong salt and water into the tub. The smaller 
 pieces can be used at the end of three weeks, 
 the larger should be left for a, month. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. per poftnd. 
 
 HAMBURG BEEF SALAD (named Hambro' Salad). 
 Make a salad with a pint of mixed vegetables, 
 which have been washed, thoroughly dried, and 
 shredded. Mix with them half a dozen filleted 
 anchovies, three or four sharp apples, finely 
 minced, and a quarter of a pound of dried 
 salmon cut into small pieces. Season with pep- 
 per, salt, vinegar, and oil, and just before serv- 
 ing, strew over the top half a pound of Ham- 
 burg beef, chopped small. Garnish the dish 
 according to taste, with parsley, slices of hard- 
 boiled egg, beetroot, etc. Time, one hour to 
 prepare. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. 
 
 HAMBURG BEEF, SMOKED. 
 
 Take about six or seven pounds weight of the 
 rump, or ribs of beef, and rub a little common 
 salt and coarsa sugar into it. Let it remain for 
 two or three days, and turn it frequently. Drain 
 and wipe the meat. Pound and mix thoroughly 
 a quarter of a pound of common salt, a quarter 
 of a pound of bay salt, an ounce of saltpetre, 
 half an ounce of pepper, and half a dozen 
 pounded cloves. Rub these well into the beef, 
 and turn it every day for a fortnight. Take it 
 up, drain it, roll it tightly in a cloth, and smoke 
 it for ten or twelve days. It may be cooked 
 whole, or in pieces, but if boiled whole should 
 be pressed under a weight until cold. Probable 
 cost. Is. per pound. 
 
 HAMBURG BEEF, SMOKED, TO BOIL. 
 
 Soak the meat in lukewarm water, and let it 
 remain over-night, then dry it, and cut away 
 any discoloured parts. Trim and roll it neatly 
 and firmly, and bind it with tapes. Put it into 
 plenty of cold water, remove the scum carefully, 
 and let it boil until no more rises, then draw it 
 to the side of the fire, and simmer gently until 
 done enough. If two or three carrots and onions 
 are boiled with the beef, the flavour will be im- 
 proved. Strew grated bread-crumbs over it 
 before serving. Time, as a general rule half an 
 hour may be given for each pound, after the 
 water has boiled. Probable cost, Is. per pound. 
 
 Sufficient, beef weighing seven pounds for twelve 
 persons. 
 
 HAMBURG PICKLE. 
 
 Take a gallon of water that has been boiled, 
 mix with it two pounds and a half of common 
 salt, a pound and a half of moist sugar, an ounce 
 of saltpetre, and half a pint of vinegar. Simmer 
 for twenty minutes, skim carefully, and, when 
 cold, put in the beef, which should be turned 
 every day, and will be ready for smoking in 
 three weeks. If bay salt be substituted for com- 
 mon salt, the flavour of the meat will be much 
 improved, though the expense will be slightly 
 increased. This pickle will remain good for 
 nearly twelve months if it is boiled again occa- 
 sionally, with a little more salt, saltpetre, and 
 sugar, to make up for waste. Probable cost of 
 five quarts of pickle. Is. 
 
 HAMBURG STEAK. 
 
 Cut a piece of tender steak half an inch thick. 
 With a sharp knife scrape off the soft part till 
 there is nothing left but the tough stringy 
 fibres. Season this pulp with salt and pepper, 
 make it into little fiat round cakes half an inch 
 thick, and broil them for two minutes. Serve 
 them on rounds of buttered toast. 
 
 HAMPSHIRE PUDDING (sometimes called Hert- 
 fordshire Pudding). 
 Line the edge of a pie-dish with good puff- 
 paste. Spread some jam at the bottom of the 
 dish, abSut an inch thick. Beat the yolks of 
 three, and the whites of two eggs thoroughly. 
 Add to them three ounces of loaf sugar, pounded 
 and sifted, and three ounces of melted butter. 
 Beat these together until they are quite thick, 
 pour the mixture over the jam, and place in a 
 moderate oven till the pastry is baked. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 HANNAH MORE'S PUDDING. 
 
 Shred a quarter of a pound of beef suet very 
 finely, mix with it half a pound of finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs, a quarter of a pound of stoned 
 raisins, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, and 
 a quarter of a pound of chopped apples, weighed 
 after they are pared and cored. Add a pinch 
 of salt; a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, two 
 ounces of candied-lemon, chopped small. When 
 these ingredients are thoroughly mixed, stir 
 into them four well-beaten eggs and two table- 
 spoonfuls of brandy. Pour into a well-buttered 
 mould, plunge it into boiling water, and boil 
 for three hours. Probable cost, lOd., exclusive 
 of the brandy. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 HANOVER BUNS. 
 
 Mix a large table-spoonful of fresh yeast with 
 three table-spoonfuls of warm milk, add a 
 quarter of a. pound of fine flour, and leave it to 
 rise. Beat six ounces of butter to a cream, add 
 a pinch of salt, a table-spoonful of sugar, half 
 a pound of flour, and the thin rind of a lemon 
 minced as small as possible. Moisten this with 
 the yolks of three and the white of one egg, add 
 the yeast, etc., and beat it well with the hand 
 until air-bubbles begin to rise. The dough 
 should be of the usual consistency. Make it into 
 small cakes, and set them on a buttered tin a 
 little distance from each other. Put them in a 
 warm place, and, when nicely risen, brush them 
 
HAN 
 
 298 
 
 HAR 
 
 over with beaten egg, and bake them in a good 
 oven till brightly browned. Strew a little pow- 
 dered sugar over them before serving. If fresh 
 yeast cannot be obtained, three-quarters of an 
 ounce of German yeast may be substituted for 
 it. Time, about twenty minutes to bake. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. Sufficient for a dozen buns. 
 
 HANOVER CAKE. 
 
 Take half a pound of almonds, blanched and 
 pounded with a little rose-water, half a pound of 
 sifted sugar, twelve eggs, leaving out naif the 
 whites, and the rind of a lemon grated very fine. 
 Mix all well together, put the mixture into a 
 baking-tin or pie-dish, and bake in a moderate 
 oven for half an hour, or until it is a light brown. 
 
 HANOVER SAUCE (suitable for Fowls, etc.). 
 
 Soak the thin rind of half a lemon in half a 
 pint of cream for an hour or more. Boil the 
 liver, and pound it in a mortar, with a dessert- 
 spoonful of lemon-juice and a little salt and 
 cayenne. Add the strained cream. Stir it over 
 the fire for a few minutes.' It must not boil. 
 Serve in a tureen. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient 
 for three or four persons. 
 
 HARE, BAKED. 
 
 Instead of hashing hare, it may be warmed up 
 as follows. Take the remains of cold hare and 
 pick the meat from the bones. Divide it into 
 small neat pieces. Cut half a pound of fat 
 bacon into dice. Fry these in butter till slightly 
 browned, and put them at the bottom of a deep 
 pie-dish. Strew a handful of finely-grated breaf 
 crumbs over them, and on this place the pieces 
 of hare, seasoned with pepper and salt. Cut 
 some button-mushrooms into halves, stew them 
 partially, and lay them on the hare, and over 
 them another layer of bread-crumbs. Distribute 
 little pieces of butter over the surface, and 
 enough broth to prevent the whole getting dry 
 and hard. This should be added in small quan- 
 tities, as required. Put the dish into a tin filled 
 with water, and heat in the oven. If mushrooms 
 are not to be had, supply their place with 
 mashed potatoes, and add a little ketchup to the 
 broth which is used to moisten the hare. Time, 
 three-quarters of an hour to bake. Probable 
 cost. Is., exclusive of the cold hare. Suflicient 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 HARE, BARON OF (a German recipe). 
 
 In Germany a hare is frequently made up into 
 two dishes, and may be served at different times, 
 which, when the family is small, is often a con- 
 venience. The baron, which consists of the back 
 and thighs, is the superior dish, and it is this 
 to which the present recipe refers. Directions 
 for cooking the inferior parts will be given in a 
 succeeding paragraph (see Habe Pepper). 
 Divide the hare into two parts, cutting close to 
 the shoulder-blades. Leave the kidneys in the 
 loins, and remove the thin skin from the back. 
 Eub the hare over with moist sugar, and leave it 
 for three or four hours, then put it into a deep 
 dish with a finely-minced onion, a bay-leaf, a 
 dozen juniper berries, and a quarter of a pint 
 of vinegar. Let it remain in this marinade for 
 two days, turning and basting it frequently. 
 Drain it and lard it in neat rows with thin strips 
 of bacon. Put it down before a clear fire until 
 it is nicely browned, then put it into a stewpan 
 
 with the marinade, a tea-spoonful of salt, half 
 a tea-spoonful of pepper, and the contents of 
 the dripping-pan taken from under it. Cover 
 the saucepan closely, and let the meat steam 
 until tender, basting frequently during the pro- 
 cess. Put the hare into a hot dish, squeeze the 
 juice of a lemon over it, and send the sauce in 
 which it was stewed to table in a tureen, after 
 having strained and thickened it, and added a 
 large table-spoonful of red currant jelly and a 
 wine-glassful of claret. Time, three-quarters of 
 an hour to roast, three-quarters of an hour to 
 steam. Sufficient for four or five persons. Prob- 
 able cost of hare, 3s. 6d. to 68. 
 
 HARE, BATTER FOR BASTING. 
 
 Beat the yolks of two eggs, and the white of 
 one. Mix smoothly with them two table-spoon- 
 fuls of flour, and add a pinch of salt, a table- 
 spoonful of oil, and » pint of milk. When the 
 hare is about three-Darts roasted, baste it with 
 the batter, until the latter stiffens, and forms a 
 covering over the hare. Care must be taken not 
 to let this burn. Time a few minutes to pre- 
 pare. Probable cost, §d. Sufficient for one hare. 
 
 HARE, BONED. 
 
 Bone the hare (see Bone, To), then stuff the 
 inside with a forcemeat made of bread-crumbs, 
 minced ham, chopped parsley, and plenty of 
 pepper and salt. Make the hare into as good 
 a shape as possible ; bake in a moderate oven for 
 two hours, basting frequently; dish up, and 
 cover with thick brown gravy that has had half 
 a pot of red currant jelly and a glassful of port 
 wine mixed in with it. Garnish with tiny force- 
 meat balls and cut lemon. 
 
 HARE, BRAISED. ' 
 
 Stuff the hare with a suitable forcemeat (see 
 Habe, Fobcemeat fob). Sew it up securely, and 
 lay slices of bacon on it, put it into a braising- 
 pan, or stewpan, with two finely-minced 
 shallots, a scraped carrot, four button- 
 mushrooms, or, in place of these, a table- 
 spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and a pint 
 of , good stock. Place three ounces of 
 butter on the hare, put the lid on the pan, 
 and simmer gently for three hours or more. 
 Strain' the gravy, thicken it with a dessert- 
 spQonful of flour, mixed smoothly with a little 
 cold water, add a glass of sherry, Madeira, or 
 claret, simmer a few minutes longer, and serve. 
 Send red currant jelly to table with the hare. 
 Probable cost of hare, 3s. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient 
 for six or eight persons. 
 
 HARE, BROILED. 
 
 Season the legs and shoulders of a cold roast 
 hare with salt anti cayenne, broil them over a 
 clear fire, rub some cold butter over them, and 
 serve as quickly as possible on a hot dish. Time, 
 five minutes to broil. Sufficient for three, 
 persons. 
 
 HARE CAKES. 
 
 Take the remains of cold roast hare, and mince 
 the meat with a quarter of its weight in finely- 
 shredded suet. Pound the mince in a mortar, and 
 season rather highly with salt and cayenne. 
 Bind it together with beaten egg and a little 
 milk. The yolk of one egg and a table-Spoonful 
 of milk will be sufficient for a pound of hare. 
 
HAR 
 
 299 
 
 HAR 
 
 Maie the mince up into small cakes, dip these in 
 ILour, and fry them in hot dripping or lard. 
 Serve them on a hot dish, pour round them some 
 gravy made with the bones and trimmings of 
 the hare, and garnish the dish with toasted 
 sippets. Time, five or six minutes to fry the 
 cakes. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold 
 meat. Sufficient for three persons. 
 
 HARE, CHOOSING A. 
 
 If the cleft in the lip of a hare is widely 
 spread, the claws blunt, and the ears tough and 
 hard, the animal is old, and should be jugged, 
 stewed, or made into soup, but never roasted. 
 When the body is stiffy the hare is fresh; if 
 limp, it is stale. A hare should be hung by the 
 hind-legs, and is always better if it is not 
 paunchtd for four or five days after being killed. 
 If it is already paunched, the liver should be 
 taken out and scalded, the heart removed, and 
 the inside of the hare wiped dry every day. If 
 a small piece of charcoal be put in the inside, 
 it will help to keep the hare. A hare should be 
 hung for ten days or a fortnight, in cold weather, 
 before being cooked. 
 
 HARE, CIVET OF. 
 
 This dish may be made either with the re- 
 mains of cold roast hare or with an uncocked 
 hare. In the formei; case, the meat would rs- 
 quire to be warmed for a few minutes only in 
 the gravy; in the latter, it would have to be 
 stewed with it.' Divide the hare into small neat 
 pieces, and fry them for a few minutes with 
 half a pound of fat bacon, cut into dice, and 
 two ounces of butter. When lightly browned, 
 lift out the meat and bacon, and mix a table- 
 spoonful of flour smoothly into the fat. Add 
 gradually a pint and a half of stock, and put 
 it into a stewpan with the bones of the hare, 
 half a dozen small onions, half a blade of mace, 
 a bay-leaf, a tea-spoonful of salt, a sprinkling 
 of cayenne, a small lump of sugar, and a few 
 mushrooms, or, in place of these, a tea-spoonful 
 of mushroom-powder or a table-spoonful of ket- 
 chup. Simmer gently for an hour, then strain 
 the gravy, put in the pieces of meat, with the 
 bruised liver, a cupful of blood, and half a 
 tulnblerful of port. Simmer again as long as 
 the meat requires it, and serve as hot as pos- 
 sible. The juice of half a lemon is by some con- 
 sidered an improvement. Time, altogether, 
 about two hours. Probable cost of hare, 
 from 3s. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient for six or eight 
 persons. 
 
 HARE COLLOPS. 
 
 Take the remains of cold hare, pick the meat 
 from the bones, mince it finely, and season 
 rather highly with cayenne and salt. For every 
 pound of minced meat put one ounce of butter 
 into the frying-pan, dredge a little flour over it 
 and the meat, and keep stirring over the fire 
 till it is a dark brown. Put half a pint of 
 strained gravy, made from the bones and trim- 
 mings, into a saucepan, add the collops, and a 
 glass of port. Simmer gently for half an hour. 
 Serve on a hot dish, with toasted sippets for 
 garnish. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the 
 cold meat and wine. Suflicient for two or three 
 persons, when made with one pound of minced 
 meat. 
 
 HARE CUTLETS (a German recipe). 
 
 The back of the hare, which is the best part 
 of it, may be divided into cutlets, and fried. 
 The rest may be used for soup, or served some 
 other way. Leave the bones in the cutlets, 
 trim them neatly, and rub into them some salt, 
 pepper, and pounded mace. Mix a dessert- 
 spoonful of finely-minced sweet herbs, and half 
 a tea-spoonful of grated lemon-rind, with a 
 quarter of a pint of bread-crumbs. Dip the 
 cutlets in egg, and afterwards in the seasoned 
 bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot butter. Put 
 them in a hot dish, squeeze the juice of a lemon 
 over them, and garnish the dish with slices of 
 hard-boiled egg and pickled gherkins. Time, 
 from twelve to fifteen minutes to fry the cut- 
 lets. Probable cost of hare, from 3s. 6d. to 6s. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 HARE (en Daube). 
 
 Cut off the head of a hare, and truss it 
 securely. Line a braising-pan with slices of 
 bacon, place the hare on it, and with it a calf's 
 foot, broken into small pieces, a large onion 
 with four cloves stuck in it, a large bunch of 
 parsley, a sprig of ^hyme, two sliced carrots, 
 and a quarter of a pint of good stock. Dredge 
 a little pepper over the meat, cover it with 
 slices of bacon, lay three or four folds of but- 
 tered paper over the bacon, and simmer slowly 
 for four hours. Strain the gravy, boil it till it 
 will jelly, pour it over the meat, and serve cold. 
 Probable cost of hare, 3s. 6d. to Bs. Sufficient 
 for six or eight persons. 
 
 HARE, FILLETS OF. 
 
 Take a hare that has been already roasted, 
 and cut the meat into fillets. Place these 
 into a stewpan with some sauce poivrade (see 
 PoivBADE Sauce), make them very hot, but do 
 not let them boil, and serve with sippets of 
 fried toast. 
 
 HARE, FORCEMEAT FOR. 
 
 If the liver of the hare is perfectly sound, boil 
 it gently for six minutes, mince it finely, and 
 mix it with six table-spoonfuls of finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs, half a tea^spoonful of fresh 
 lemon-rind, chopped very small, a dessert- 
 spoonful of minced parsley, a quarter of a tea- 
 spoonful of thyme, and the same of sweet mar- 
 joram, a small tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper, a little cayenne, if this is 
 liked, and two or three grates of nutmeg. Mix 
 the dry ingredients thoroughly, then work into 
 them two ounces of good butter and the yolks 
 of two eggs. If the liver is not sound, it may 
 be omitted, and then one egg only will be 
 necessary. Everything used in making force- 
 meat should be quite fresh and sweet, or a 
 very unpleasant flavour may be given to the 
 dish. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for one 
 hare. 
 
 HARE, FORCEMEAT FOR (another way). 
 {See PoBCEMEAT FOB HAEB.) 
 
 HARE, CATEAU OF. 
 
 Prepare a hare as if for roasting. Cut it into 
 joints. The best parts — the back, thighs, and 
 shoulders — may be used for the gateau, and the 
 remainder for a civet or for soup. Take the 
 meat from the skin and sinews, cut it up, and 
 
HAR 
 
 300 
 
 HAR 
 
 pound it in a mortar, with one pound of the 
 neck or loin of veal, half a pound of fresh, lean 
 pork, and a quarter of a pound of unsmoked 
 fat bacon. A table-spoonful of soup or stock 
 may be added while pounding, so as to make 
 the meat into a smooth paste. Add pepper. 
 Bait, and cayenne to taste, together with two 
 or three small onions, finely minced, and a tea- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley. Beat and add one 
 at a time half a dozen raw eggs. Line 
 the bottom and sides of a baking-dish with 
 slices of fat bacon, cut very thin. Spread the 
 chopped meat over it, about an inch and a half 
 in thickness, and place two or three more slices 
 upon it. Repeat until all the meat is used, 
 letting the bacon be uppermost. Place the skin of 
 the bacon or a coarse crust of flour and water 
 on the top of the dish, to keep in the juices, and 
 bake in a moderate oven. If the oven were too 
 hot, the meat would be hard and dry. When 
 cool, dip the dish into hot water, turn out the 
 cake, place on a napkin, and garnish according 
 to taste. This dish is good for breakfast or 
 luncheon, and will keep for some days. It 
 should be eaten cold. Time, about four hours 
 to bake. Probable cost of hare, 3s. 6d. to 6s. 
 Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 HARE, G&TEAU OF (made with cold dressed Hare). 
 Take the flesh from the bones of a cold roast 
 hare, remove the skin and sinews, cut it small, 
 and pound it in a mortar with the liver of the 
 hare. Take half the weight of the meat, in 
 finely-grated bread-crumbs, soak them in as 
 much good broth as they will absorb, and mix 
 them with the pounded meat. Season with 
 salt, pepper, and spices, according to taste, to- 
 gether with a finely-minced shallot, and a tea- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley. Add two well- 
 beaten eggs. Cover the inside of a mould with 
 slices of bacon. Put in the pounded meat, lay 
 some more slices on the top, and bake in a 
 moderate oven, or put it into a saucepan of 
 boiling water, and let it simmer gently for an 
 hour. Take away the bacon that surrounds it, 
 and strew finely-grated bread-crumbs over it. 
 This dish may be eaten either hot or cold. If 
 eaten hot, a sauce should be sent to table with 
 it made from the bones and trimmings of the 
 hare, stewed in a little stock, seasoned, and 
 flavoured. Time, an hour and a half to bake. 
 Probable cost. Is., .exclusive of the cold hare. 
 
 HARE, GRAVY FOR. 
 
 (.S'ee Geavt pob Habb.) 
 
 HARE, HARICOT OF. 
 
 When the best parts of the hare have been 
 used, the remainder may be cooked as fol- 
 lows. Divide the hare into small, neat joints. 
 Fry these for three or four minutes in a little 
 butter, then put them into a larger stewpan, 
 with a sprig of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a 
 shallot, finely minced, two turnips and two 
 carrots, ciit into small pieces, three or four 
 cloves, and a little pepper and salt. Mix a 
 little flour very smoothly with the butter in 
 which the hare was fried, let it brown lightly, 
 then add gradually a pint and a half of good 
 stock. Let the sauce boil a minute or two, then 
 pour it over the hare, etc., and simmer gently 
 for an hour. A dessert-spoonful of chilli vine- 
 
 gar, or the same quantity of lemon-juice may be 
 added, if liked. Put the meat into a hot dish, 
 pour the sauce round it, and serve with toasted 
 sippets. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the 
 hare. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 HARE, HASHED. 
 
 Take the rem-ains of cold roast hare, and cut 
 it into neat pieces. Put a pint of gravy into a 
 saucepan with the trimmings of the hare, a 
 table-spoonful of red-currant jelly, and salt 
 and pepper, if necessary. Simmer gently for 
 twenty minutes. If there is not so much as a 
 pint of gravy remaining, it must be made up 
 with water and stewed longer. Strain the 
 gravy, and put it into a saucepan, and with it 
 the pieces of hare dredged with flour, also a 
 glass of port. Simmer for a quarter of an hour, 
 then cut the forcemeat into slices, and put 
 them into the gravy for three or four minutes, 
 to get hot, then serve in a hot dish. Probable 
 cost, exclusive of the cold meat and wine, 2d. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 HARE, HASHED (another way). 
 
 When no gravy remains from the, previous 
 day's dinner, cut the hare into neat pieces, and 
 put the bones and trimmings aside for use. Fry 
 three small onions and an ounce of bacon, cut 
 into dice, in a little butter, take them out when 
 done, and mix a table-spoonful of flour very 
 smoothly with the fat. Add gradually a pint 
 of water, a blade of mace, a bunch of savoury 
 herbs, a bay-leaf, a sprig of parsley, five or six 
 chives, the bones ajid trimmings, and a little 
 salt and pepper. Simmer gently for an hour 
 after the gravy has boiled. Strain the gravy, 
 put in the pieces of hare and a table-spoonful 
 of red-currant jelly. Boil for five minutes, and 
 serve on a hot dish, with toasted sippets round. 
 Probable cost, exclusive of the cold hare, 6d 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 HARE, JUGGED. 
 
 A hare nicely jugged is to be preferred to one 
 cooked in any other way. Cut the hare into 
 pieces, not one of which is larger than an egg 
 Fry these in a little butter till they are lightly 
 browned, drain them, and put them at once into 
 a wide-mouthed stone jar, and pour upon them 
 a large glassful of port or good claret or Bur- 
 gundy. The dregs of one or two bottles, if 
 taken care of, will answer excellently for the 
 purpose. Tie a cloth securely over the mouth'-of 
 tha jar, and leave the pieces' of meat in the 
 wine for about twenty minutes. Untie the ]A, 
 and pour over the meat a little good brown 
 gravy, strongly flavoured with onion. Add an 
 inch of stick cinnamon, six cloves, two bay 
 leaves, the juice of half a lemon, and a table- 
 spoonful of the forcemeat sprinkled lightly over 
 all. Cover the jar again, and very closely put 
 it up to its neck in a saucepan of boiling water, 
 and keep the water boiling round it for about 
 an hour and a half. If more convenient the jar 
 can be placed in the oven, in a shallow drip- 
 ping-tin, filled with boiling water. When this 
 is done, it will need to be baked from two hours 
 and a half to three hours, and care must be 
 taken to keep up the supply of boiling water 
 round it. Make up some good hare forcemeat 
 (see Habe, Foecekeat foe) into small balls the 
 
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 301 
 
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 size of marbles, fry these in hot fat, and put 
 them into the jar a minute or two before it is 
 taken out of the oven. This dish will be much 
 improved, and will go further if a pound of 
 steak is added, cut into very thin slices, two 
 inches long by an inch and a half broad. These 
 slices should have a little forcemeat spread upon 
 each one, then be rolled up, fastened with a 
 small skewer, and fried and stewed with the 
 hare. The gravy which is used for jugged hare 
 will be belter if thickened with arrowroot 
 rather than with brown thickening. Serve red 
 currant jelly with this dish. Excellent hare 
 soup may be made of the remains of jugged 
 hare prepared in this way (see Habe, Roast, 
 Cold). Probable cost, supposing the hare to 
 cost 3s. 6d., aiid with one pound of beef, 6s. 
 
 HARE, JUQGED (Yorkshire mode). 
 
 Take half a pound of good forcemeat, and 
 shape it into balls. Divide the hare into joints, 
 and put them into a deep earthen jar, with a 
 pound of beef steak and half a pound of fat 
 bacon. Put the beef and hare in layers, and 
 place the piece of bacon in the middle of them. 
 Season as in the last recipe. Pour over the 
 hare a pint of stock and a little of its blood. 
 Cover the jar closely, and bake in a good oven 
 for two hours and a half. Let the forcemeat 
 balls be put in with the rest for the last half 
 hour, and, ten minutes before the hare is 
 served, add a glass of port. Be careful to lift 
 the balls out gently, so as not to break them, 
 and send red currant jelly to table on a glass 
 dish. Probable cost, 5s. 6d., supposing the 
 hare to cost 3s. 6d. Sufficient for eight or nine 
 persons. 
 
 HARE, LARDED. 
 
 The flesh of hare is such dry food, that it is a 
 saying amongst cooks that " a hare with twelve 
 pennyworth of sauce is worth a shilling." When 
 old, it ought never to be roasted without being 
 larded, and a young hare is much improved by 
 the same process. The fore part of the animal 
 may be reserved for stewing, or for soup. Truss 
 the hind part securely; pass one leg through 
 the other, and fasten the skin round with 
 skewers. Hold the back and legs before a clear 
 fire for three or four minutes to " set " the flesh. 
 Lard the thick part of the back and legs with 
 thin strips of fat bacon (see Laeking); cover 
 with one or two folds of buttered paper, and 
 roast before a clear fire for three-quarters of an 
 hour. Take off the paper during the last ten 
 minutes, that the hare may be equally coloured 
 all over. Garnish the dish with forcemeat balls, 
 and send red currant jelly to table with it. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable 
 cost of hare, from 3s. 6d. to 63. 
 
 HARE, LIVER SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Simmer the liver for a quarter of an hour in 
 good beef gravy, mince it finely, and with it a 
 small onion. Add a dessert-spoonful of chilli 
 vinegar, a table-spoonful of currant jelly, and 
 three of port wine. Stir the sr.uce over the fire 
 till hot, and serve. Sufficient for four or flve per- 
 sons. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the wine. 
 
 HARE, MUTTON GRAVY FOR. 
 
 Cut a pound of the scrag of mutton in pieces ; 
 brown them in a little butter, and pour over 
 
 them a pint and a half of boiling water. Let 
 the gravy boil up, add two cloves, half an inch 
 of cinnamon, a pinch of mixed herbs, with pep- 
 per and salt. Simmer gently an hour or more. 
 Strain the gravy, free it from fat, thicken it, 
 add a gill of port, and serve in a tureen. 
 
 HARE PASTY (a German recipe). 
 
 Skin the hare, and cut it into joints or half- 
 joints; lard these with thin strips of bacon, 
 and lay them in a deep dish, with an onion, 
 finely minced, twenty juniper berries, a bay- 
 leaf, a dozen peppercorns, and a quarter of a 
 pint of vinegar. Let them remain in this 
 marinade twelve hours, turning and basting 
 them frequently. Drain the pieces of hare, and 
 put them into a stewpan with three ounces of 
 butter. Cover the pan closely, and let them 
 steam until tender. Take them out, and put 
 into the stewpan half the marinade and half a 
 pint of good, nicely-seasoned gravy. Boil the 
 liver, mince it finely, and make a forcemeat by 
 mixing with it a quarter of a pound of bacon, 
 half a pound of pork, four ounces of finely- 
 grated bread-crumbs, a quarter of a nutmeg, 
 grated, some salt and pepper, a tea-spoonful 
 of minced parsley, half as much powdered 
 thyme, and two well-beaten eg^s. Stir this 
 over a gentle fire until it is sufficiently cooked. 
 Spread half the forcemeat on the bottom of a 
 baking-dish, put the pieces of hare upon it, with 
 the rest of the forcemeat between them. Pour 
 ill a quarter of a pint of the gravy, and lay two 
 or three thin slices of bacon over the whole. 
 Cover the dish with a good crust, and bake in a 
 moderate oven for an hour and a half. Boil 
 the gravy down a little, and pour it through a 
 hole in the lid. This pasty may be eaten either 
 hot or cold. Probable cost of hare, 3s. 6d. to 
 6s. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. 
 
 HARE PATE (en Terrine). 
 
 Bone a hare ; take one pound of fillet of veal, 
 one pound of fresh lean pork, a little beef fat, 
 parsley, chives, thyme, a bay-leaf, pepper, 
 cloves, and (if liked) garlic. Chop them all up 
 very small. Line a small wide-mouthed dish, 
 the lid of which shuts closely, with slices of- 
 bacon; put in the hare, etc., mixed with half 
 a pound of bacon cut into pieces ; pour a glass 
 of brandy over it ; cover it with slices of bacon, 
 and close up the lid carefully with paste. Let 
 it bake four hours. 
 
 HARE PEPPER. 
 
 Cut the hare into small convenient-sized 
 joints. Fry these in hot butter until nicely 
 browned, and with them one onion, sliced, and 
 three ounces of bacon, cut into dice. Take out 
 the hare, etc., while you brown two table-spoon- 
 fuls of fiour in the butter. Add gradually a 
 pint and a half of water or stock, and, when it 
 is smoothly mixed, put in the pieces of hare, 
 six or eight peppercorns, the rind of half a 
 lemon, four or five cloves, and the gravy from 
 the dish in which the hare lay. Simmer gently 
 for an hour or more. Put the pieces of hare 
 into a dish, strain the gravy over them, and 
 garnish with sliced lemon. When the hind- 
 most part of the hare has been already served, 
 the inferior joints are excellent cooked thus. 
 The head should be split in t\vo and the liver 
 
HAR 
 
 302 
 
 HAR 
 
 cut into two or three pieces. Probable cost, 
 2s. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 HARE, PICKLED. 
 
 Take a hare, either whole or cut into suitable 
 pieces, and pickle it for from four to six days 
 in sufficient vinegar to cover it, with salt, pep- 
 per, sliced onions, two bay-leaves, a small garlic 
 root, and three or four cloves. Make a roux 
 with a piece of butter and two table-spoonfuls 
 of flour, add half the pickling vinegar with 
 the clotted blood, stir in two small tumblerfuls 
 of red wine, two ounces of bacon cut into dice, 
 a breakfast-cupful of stock, and the same sea- 
 soning as for the pickle. Let this sauce cook 
 for quite half an "hour, then put in the hare, 
 cover the pan, and let it simmer slowly over a 
 moderate fire for about two hours. 
 
 HARE PIE. 
 
 Skin the hare, cut it into convenient-sized 
 joints, season these with pepper and two 
 pounded cloves, and fry them in hot butter for 
 ten or fifteen minutes, then put them aside to 
 cool. Pound the liver in a mortar with four 
 ounces of bacon, a shallot, finely-minced, a tea- 
 spoonful of parsley, a tea-spoonful of thyme, 
 and half a tea-spoonful of pepper. Whilst 
 pounding add the blood till the forcemeat is of 
 the proper consistency, or, if blood is not liked, 
 a glass of port or the yolk of an egg may be 
 substituted. The head and inferior parts may 
 be stewed for gravy, with the same seasoning 
 which would be used for jugged hare. Line the 
 edge of a pie-dish with good crust, arrange the 
 hare and the forcemeat inside it in alternate 
 layers, cover the whole with thin slices of bacon, 
 and pour over it half a pint of the gravy, to 
 which has been added a tea-spoonful of red 
 currant jelly, and, if liked, a glass of port. 
 Cover with crust, bake in a good oven, and 
 serve hot. Time, an hour and a half to bake. 
 Probable cost of hare, 3s. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient 
 for eight or ten persons. 
 
 HARE PIE, RAISED. 
 
 Make a crust with a pound and a half of flour, 
 three-quarters of a pound of butter or lard, a 
 pinch of salt, and half a pint of water. Put it 
 aside for a little while. Cut a hare which has 
 hung for a week or a fortnight into neat joints, 
 and bone it, if practicable. When emptying it, 
 be careful to preserve the blood. Mince half a 
 pound of lean veal and half a pound of fat bacon 
 very finely. Pound them in a mortar; add the 
 blood in small quantities whilst pounding. 
 Roll the paste to the thickness of half an inch 
 in the proper shape. Butter the mould, press 
 the pastry into it, fill it with alternate layers 
 of forcemeat and hare, fill the cavities with 
 forcemeat and jellied gravy, lay two or three 
 slices of bacon on the top, put on the pastry 
 cover, brush it over with beaten egg, ornament 
 the sides and top, and make a hole in the centre. 
 Bake for three hours. In order to ascertain 
 whether the pie is sufficiently cooked, pierce it 
 with a skewer. If it goes through the meat 
 easily the pie may be taken out. Of course this 
 can only be done when the meat is boned. No 
 gravy should be put into the pie until after it 
 is baked. This pie is to be eaten cold. Probable 
 cost of hare, irom 3s. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient for 
 
 six or eight persons. {Set Eaised Pies, To 
 
 FOBM.) 
 
 HARE, POTTED. 
 
 Skin a hare and cut it into joints. Divide two 
 pounds of bacon into square pieces of about two 
 inches, and fry them in three ounces of butter. 
 Put into the pan with them the pieces of hare, 
 a small sprig of parsley, thyme, and sweet 
 marjoram, two bay-leaves, a shallot, eight 
 cloves, one blade of mace, a pinch of cayenne, 
 a dozen peppercorns, and a little salt, if re- 
 quired. Fry them for a few minutes, then 
 moisten with half a pint of good gravy. Cover 
 the pan closely, and simmer gently for an hour 
 and a half. Drain the pieces of hare from the 
 liquid, pick the meat from the bones, remove the 
 skin and sinew, mince it finely, and pound it in 
 a mortar. Mix with it the fat and bacon, also 
 pounded, and taste if the paste is sufficiently 
 seasoned. Add the liquid, first boiling it down 
 till it is reduced to three-quarters of a pint, and 
 then passing it through a hair sieve. Put the 
 mixture into jars, cover these with a coarse 
 paste of flour and water, and bake in a moderate 
 oven for an hour. Take them out, and, when 
 cool, cover the jars with melted lard or butter 
 and afterwards with bladder. If prepared in 
 this way and kept in a cool place, the hare will 
 keep good for several weeks. Probable cost, 
 6s. 6d., supposing the hare to cost 3s. 6d. Suf- 
 ficient for ten or twelve persons. 
 
 HARE, POTTED (rrom cold meat). 
 
 Take the remains of cold roast hare. Pick the 
 meat from the bones, put it, freed from skin 
 and sinew, into a mortar, and pound till it is a 
 smooth paste. If there is a pound of meat, mix 
 with it a sali^spoonful of salt, a salt-spoonful of 
 pepper, half a salt-spoonful of mustard, a salt- 
 spoonful of sugar, and two cloves, pounded; 
 also a quarter of a pint of cold gravy and four 
 ounces of clarified butter. When the ingredi- 
 ents are thoroughly blended, put the meat into 
 a dish, make it smooth and even, and pour over 
 it two ounces of melted butter. Keep it in a 
 cool place until required for use. Time, about 
 one hour to prepare. Probable cost, 6d., ex- 
 clusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. 
 
 HARE, PUREE OF. 
 
 Cut up the remains of a roasted hare. Put a 
 few slices of ham into a stewpan, then the hare, 
 two whole onions, a blade of mace, two quarts 
 of stock, and a bouquet garni. Set it on the 
 stove to simmer for two hours or more ; strain 
 it off, pull all the meat from the bones, and 
 pound it with a little of the ham boiled with it, 
 and the crust of two French rolls which have 
 been soaked in broth. Eub the whole through a 
 tamis and mix with a pint of boiled claret and 
 enough of the stock to bring it to the consistency 
 of cream. Put into a double stewpan, or one 
 surrounded by a larger one of boiling water. 
 When quite hot work a little butter into it, and 
 serve with sippets. 
 HARE, QUENELLES OF. 
 
 Make in the same way as other game 
 quenelles, but add to four ounces of the meat 
 some aromatic or herbaceous mixture, as much 
 as will half cover a sixpence; put in the same 
 
HAR 
 
 303 
 
 HAR 
 
 quantity of mushroom powder, and season -with 
 essence of nutmeg. If mushroom powder is not 
 available, a few drops of mushroom ketchup 
 may be used instead, but in that case rather 
 more panada must be used, or the liquid will 
 thin the mixture. 
 
 HARE, RAGOUT. 
 
 Divide the hare into neat joints.. Put the 
 best parts — namely, the back, shoulders, and 
 legs — into a deep dish; pour over as much 
 vinegar as will barely cover them, and put with 
 them one bay-leaf, a large onion, with six cloves 
 stuck in it, half a dozen peppercorns, and half 
 a dozen shallots. Let them remain in the marin- 
 ade for twenty-four hours. Put two ounces of 
 butter, three sliced onion.s, and three tea-spoon- 
 fuls of flour into a stewpan. Set the pan upon 
 a moderate fire, and stir well with a wooden 
 spoon till the onions are brightly browned; add 
 gradually a quart of water, make the mixture 
 quite smooth, then put with it a bunch of herbs, 
 four allspice, a, sliced carrot, the inferior pieces 
 of hare, such as the head, neck, liver, heart, and 
 ribs, and a quarter of a pound of bacon, cut 
 into slices. Simmer gently for an hour. Strain 
 the gravy, and leave it until the following day, 
 when the fat can be removed entire. Drain the 
 hare from the vinegar and stew it in the gravy 
 until tender. Add salt and pepper, if required. 
 Serve with forcemeat balls round the dish. A 
 glass of port is always an improvement to hare, 
 but this may be added or not. Time, three- 
 quarters of an hour to stew the hare. Probable 
 cost, 3s. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient for six or eight 
 persons. 
 
 HARE, ROAST. 
 
 An old hare may be jugged or stewed, but 
 should never be roasted. Choose onej therefore, 
 not more than three-quarters grown. The longer 
 it can be kept g'ood the better it will be. It is 
 best not to be opened for three or four days, and 
 the vent and mouth may be tied up if it is 
 wished to keep it as long as possible. As soon 
 as it is paunehed the liver and heart should be 
 taken out and scalded, the inside wiped dry 
 every day, and dusted with pepper, and the hare 
 hung head downwards in a cool dry place. As 
 soon as it begins to grow limp it should be 
 cooked. If there is any suspicion that it has 
 been kept too long, let it lie in vinegar and 
 water for an hour before it is put to the fire. 
 Skin and wash the hare inside, wipe it outside 
 with a damp cloth, and dry it. Pierce the ekin 
 of the neck, and any parts where the blood has 
 settled, with the point of a sharp knife, and 
 hold it in lukewarm water to draw the blood 
 out. Fill it with good forcemeat, sew it up, and 
 truss it firmly. Put it some distance from the 
 fire at first, and when it is hot throughout place 
 it nearer. It must be basted constantly, or it 
 will be dry and hard. The usual plan is to baste 
 it with salt and water for the first quarter of an 
 hour, then to pour this away, and use a pint 
 and a half of milt, and, when this is dried up, 
 finish with a little butter. It is a better plan, 
 however, to use good beef dripping until the last 
 few minutes. When the hare is nearly done 
 enough, flour it, and baste it with butter till it 
 is nicely browned. The time required for roast- 
 
 ing will depend upon its age and size. A moder- 
 ate-sized hare will take from an hour and a 
 quarter to an hour and three-quarters; a large 
 one two hours. Take the hare up, remove the 
 string and skewers, and send a little good 
 brown gravy to table with it, and the rest in 
 a tureen. Eed currant jelly should always ac- 
 company roast hare. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. to 
 6s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 HARE, ROAST (another way). 
 
 Truss and stuff the hare as in the last recipe. 
 P,ut it down before a clear fire for a few minutes, 
 to set the flesh, then cover it all over with slices 
 of fat pork or bacon. Roast it the usual time, 
 and send good brown gravy and red currant 
 jelly to table with it. Time, one and a quarter 
 to two hours. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. to 6s. 
 Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 HARE, ROAST, COLD. 
 
 Good hare soup may Ije made of the remains 
 of cold roast hare. Chop it small, and put it 
 with the stuffing and three quarts of water into 
 a saucepan. Iiet it simmer gently for two hours. 
 If no stuffing remains, the usual herbs and sea- 
 soning must be added. Rub it through a sieve, 
 boil up, and serve. A glassful of red wine may 
 be added, if liked. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 HARE, ROAST, LIVER SAUCE FOR. 
 
 {See LivEB Sauce foe.) 
 HARE, ROAST, TO CARVE. 
 
 Insert the point of the knife under the 
 shoulder, and cut from that down to the rump, 
 along the sides of the backbone. The slices 
 should be moderately thick. Another way of 
 carving hare is to remove the shoulders and 
 legs, and cut the back crosswise into four or 
 five pieces. This, however, can only be done 
 when the hare is very young, or when it has 
 been boned. When cooking is set about on a 
 grand scale, the backbone of hares, and especi- 
 ally of old hares, is usually taken out, thus 
 rendering the labour of carving much easier. 
 To separate the leg, put the knife between the 
 leg and the back, and gfive it a little turn in- 
 wards at the joint, which you must try to hit *♦ 
 and not to break by force. The shoulders must 
 be taken off by cutting in a circular line round 
 them. These last are known as the sportsman's 
 pieces; some prefer them, but generally they are 
 thought little of, and are served only .when the 
 other portions of the hare are exhausted. The 
 most delicate part is the back; after that come 
 the thighs. When everyone is helped, take off 
 the head. The upper and lower jaw should be 
 divided by inserting the knife between them; 
 this will enable you to lay the upper part of 
 the head conveniently on the plate. That being 
 done, cut it in two. The ears and brain are 
 highly prized by connoisseurs. With each slice 
 of hare some of the stuffing should be served. 
 And some of the gravy should accompany it. 
 This is an important point, for roast hare is 
 naturally dryish, and requires the aid of plenty 
 of gravy to be properly relished. 
 HARE, SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Crumble three ounces of bread as if for bread 
 sauce. Let it soak in port wine, and, when quite 
 
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 304 
 
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 soft, beat it over the fire with an ounce of 
 butter, a table-spoonful of red currant jelly, a 
 little salt, and a table-spoonful of chilli vinegar. 
 Serve as hot as possible. Time, a few minutes 
 after the bread is soaked. Probable cost, 4d., 
 exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 HARE, SAUCE FOR (another way). 
 
 Fry a sliced carrot and a sliced onion in a 
 little butter until lightly browned. Pour over 
 them half a pint of brown sauce, nicely seasoned, 
 add a blade of mace, a little salt and pepper, if 
 necessary, and a quarter of a pint of stock, and 
 simmer gently for half an hour. Strain the 
 gravy, stir into it two table-spoonfuls of red 
 currant jelly and a table-spoonful of vinegar, 
 and serve in a tureen. Probable cost, 6d. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 HARE SCALLOPS (French). 
 
 Cut the fillet or meaty part of the back of a 
 hare into pieces half an inch thick and two 
 inches wide. Put them with two ounces of 
 butter into a stewpan, and fry them until lightly 
 browned. Pour off the butter, and put half a 
 pint of good brown sauce into the pan ; thicken 
 it with three table-spoonfuls of the blood of the 
 hare. Simmer gently for twenty minutes. Add 
 a glass of port or Burgundy. Put the scallops 
 into a croustade (see Ceoustade) on a hot dish, 
 pour the sauce over them, and serve. Probable 
 cost, 8d., exclusive of the hare and wine. Suf- 
 ficient for two or three persons. 
 
 HARE SOUP. 
 
 Take a fine hare, skin and empty it, cut it 
 into joints, take out the eyes, split the head in 
 two, and put it, with two pounds of the shin 
 of beef, cut into small pieces, into a saucepan, 
 with a gallon of cold water. Eemove the scum 
 as it rises, and, when the water boils, put with 
 it two onions, with three cloves in each, two 
 or three sliced carrots, half a dozen peppercorns, 
 and a salt-spoonful of bruised celery-seed, tied 
 in muslin. Let the soup simmer very gently 
 for two hours, then take out the best joints, 
 remove the meat from the bones, return the 
 latter to the stewpan, and simmer again for 
 another hour, during the latter part of which 
 a dessert-spoonful of salt and a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, tied in muslin, may be added. If these 
 are put into the soup too soon, their flavour will 
 evaporate. Fry two chopped onions in a little 
 butter, mix very smoothly with them two table- 
 spoonfuls of ground rice or flour, moisten with 
 a little of the liquid, then add it to the rest. 
 After it has boiled, strain it through a colander, 
 pick off the meat from the pieces of hare which 
 were left in the soup, pound it in a mortar, pass 
 it through a coarse sieve, and return it to the 
 liquid; put in the pieces of hare which were set 
 aside, and when they are thoroughly heated, 
 add the blood of the hare, if this is liked. Add 
 a quarter of a pint of port, and serve with force- 
 meat balls in the tureen. Sufficient for six or 
 eight persons. Probable cost, 2s. per quart, 
 supposing the hare to cost 3?. 6d. 
 
 HARE SOUP (a richer way). 
 
 Cut a hare into neat joints, and put them into 
 a stewpan, with four ounces of butter, half a 
 pound of lean ham, cut small, two sliced carrots. 
 
 two sliced onions, a sprig each of parsley, mar- 
 joram, and thyme, a blade of mace, fbur or five 
 cloves, a bay-leaf, and four shallots. Fry them 
 for three or four minutes. Pour over them three 
 quarts of good stock, simmer gently for two 
 hours from the time when the soup boils, being 
 careful to clear off the scum as it rises. Strain 
 the soup. Eemove the meat from the back of 
 the hare, and put it aside. Pick off all the rest 
 from the bones, and pound it and the ham in 
 a mortar, with two ounces of stale bread-crumbs, 
 which have been soaked in the liquid. Pass the 
 paste through a sieve, mix it with half a pint of 
 port, return it to the saucepan, and simmer a 
 quarter of an hour longer. Season with salt 
 and cayenne according to taste, put in the pieces 
 from the back, and, when these are hot, serve 
 immediately. Time, altogether, three hours. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 6d. per quart, exclusive of the 
 wine. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. 
 
 HARE SOUP (made from the i emains of jugged 
 Hare\ 
 Pick out the best of the meat, and divide it 
 into pieces large enough for a mouthful. Put 
 these on a plate, cover them over, and keep them 
 in a cool place till wanted. Put all the rest of 
 the hare, bones, and trimmings, and stuffing,, 
 and gravy into a saucepan, pour over it as much 
 good stock (see Stock Made prom Bones) as 
 will cover it, and add eight or nine outer sticks 
 of celery and a slice of stale crumb of bread. 
 Simmer all gently together till the celery is 
 tender. Strain the soup, pick out the bones, 
 and rub the celery and all else that remains 
 patiently through a sieve. The more there is 
 passed through the better. Mix the pulp with 
 the stock, put the soup back into the saucepan, 
 and let it boil up again. If too thin, a little 
 brown thickening may be added, but hare soup 
 should not be too thick. Put the pieces of meat 
 in the soup, add salt and cayenne to taste, and 
 when it is quite hot, without boiling, throw in 
 a glass of port and a little jelly. Add a squeeze 
 of lemon-juice, and serve at once. Time to 
 simmer the bones and trimmings about one 
 hour and a half. 
 
 HARE, STEWED. 
 
 Cut up a hare into neat joints. Put these into 
 a stewpan with a pint and a half of good gravy, 
 four ounces of raw ham cut into dice, four shal- 
 lots, a sprig of parsley and thyme, the liver, 
 finely minced, a blade of mace, half a dozen 
 peppercorns, and two ounces of butter rolled in 
 flour. Stew gently for an hour and a half. 
 Strain the gravy. Put it, with the hare, back 
 into the saucepan, add a glass of port or claret 
 and a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, 
 smoothly mixed with a dessert-spoonful of 
 ground rice ; add a little salt, if required ; sim- 
 mer a quarter of an hour longer, and serve as 
 hot as possible ; fried forcemeat balls may be 
 placed round the dish or not. Probable cost, 
 from 3s. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient for six or eight 
 persons. 
 
 HARE, TO TRUSS A. 
 
 Clean the vent, and rinse it well with luke- 
 warm water. Wipe the inside, fill it with force- 
 meat, and sew it up securely. Cut off the fore- 
 legs at the first joint, and the sinews under the 
 
HAR 
 
 305 
 
 HAR 
 
 legs, and bring both the hind and fore-legs 
 forward towards the head. Fasten them close 
 to the body with a skewer run through them 
 and the body as well. Keep the head back with 
 a skewer put in the mouth through the head, 
 and between the shoulders. Skin the ears, and 
 leave them entire. Pass a string round the body, 
 from skewer to skewer, and fasten it over the 
 back. 
 
 HARE, WINE SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Take three table-spoonfuls of good unflavoured 
 gravy. Mix with it three table-spoonfuls of 
 claret, put it on the fire, and stir into it one 
 table-spoonful of red currant jelly. When quite 
 hot, serve as quickly as possible. The sauce will 
 be much improved if two cloves and a tiny piece 
 of stick cinnamon are boiled in it for a few 
 minutes before the gravy is added, then strained 
 off. 
 
 HARICOT BEANS. 
 
 This vegetable, which is cheap, nourishing, 
 and easily cooked, is not nearly so popular 
 as it deserves to be. It is commonly used and 
 largely cultivated on the Continent; elsewhere 
 it is generally sold in a dried state. The only 
 secret in connection with it is to soak the beans 
 in plenty of cold water for several hours before 
 they are used, and then to put them into a 
 saucepan with cold water to simmer gently until 
 tender. After soaking the beans will have be- 
 come considerably larger. They can be bought 
 at the corn and flour shops for 4d. or 6d. per 
 quart, and if purchased in large quantities are 
 generally sold cheaper. They should be stored 
 in a dry place, but it is well not to keep them 
 longer than twelve months, or there is a danger 
 of their becoming musty. {See also Beans, 
 Habicot.) 
 
 HARICOT BEAN SALAD. 
 
 This is made from cold boiled beans. Add 
 plenty of chopped parsley, rub the bowl with 
 garlic, mix oil, salt, and pepper to taste, and 
 pcur over the beans, finally adding vinegar. 
 
 HARICOT BEANS (a la MaFtre d'Hdtel)- 
 
 Soak a pint of haricots overnight. Put them 
 in a saucepan with three pints of cold water and 
 a tea-spoonful of salt, and simmer for three 
 hours. Try them by pressing between the 
 fingers. When done they will crush readily and 
 look fioury. Drain them thoroughly, rinse and 
 wipe the stewpan. Put back the haricots into it, 
 and stir in two ounces of butter, add a pinch of 
 pepper, a salt-spoonful of salt, three table- 
 spoonfuls of the water in which they were boiled, 
 and a dessert-spoonful of parsley finely chopped 
 up and washed. Mix well together and serve. 
 
 HARICOT BEANS, PUREE OF. 
 
 Put a quart of beans in to soak overnight, 
 with a little piece of soda in the water to soften 
 it. Next morning put the beans to boil in three 
 quarts of water, with some carrot, celery, and 
 onion, or the beans can be boiled in stock made 
 from these vegetables. After the haricots are 
 tender pound them in a mortar, and then rub 
 through a wire sieve, after removing the vege- 
 tables. Add a tea-spoonful of pounded sugar 
 .and about two ounces of butter. Fried or 
 toasted bread should be served with the soup, 
 U 
 
 and a little boiling cream added to the soup is a 
 great improvement. 
 
 HARICOT BEANS, TO BOIL. 
 
 Wash and pick the beans, and soak them in 
 cold water overnight. Drain them, and put 
 them into a saucepan with plenty of cold water, 
 add a pinch of salt, and let them dimmer gently 
 until tender. Pour the water from them, let 
 them stand by the fire, shaking them once or * 
 twice to assist their drying, then add a small 
 piece of butter and a little pepper and salt, and 
 serve as hot as possible. Time, two hours to 
 boil. Probable cost, 2d. or 3d. per pint. Suf- 
 ficient, one pint for three or four persons. 
 
 HARICOT BEANS, TO BOIL (another way). 
 
 Soak and boil a quart of the beans, as in the 
 last recipe. ' Drain them, and keep them hot. 
 Mix an ounce of flour very smoothly over the 
 fire with two ounces of fresh butter, add a 
 quarter of a pint of boiling stock or water, a 
 little salt and pepper, and a table-spoonfTil of 
 scalded and chopped parsley. Put in the beans, 
 shake the saucepan over the fire till they are 
 well mixed with the sauce, and serve as hot as 
 possible. The flour and gravy may be omitted, 
 and a little lemon-juice squeezed over the beans 
 just before they are sent up to table. Time, 
 two hours to boil the beans. Probable cost, 4d. 
 per quart. Sufficient, one quart for eight or 
 ten persons. 
 
 HARICOT BEANS, TO STEW. 
 
 Soak and boil half a pint of beans in the usual 
 way. Drain and dry them. Cut four ounces of 
 bacon into . dice, pour some boiling water on it 
 for a few minutes, drain it, then put it into a 
 stewpan. Shake the pan over the fire till the 
 bacon is lightly browned, pour over it a quarter 
 of a pint of brown gravy thickened with fiour, 
 and a finely-minced onion. Season with pepper 
 and salt, and simmer for a quarter of an hour. 
 Add the beans, let them stew a quarter of an 
 hour longer, and serve. Time, two hours or 
 more to boil the beans. Probable cost, 4d. per 
 quart. Sufftcient fox four persons. 
 
 HARICOT BEANS, WITH ONIONS. 
 
 Wash a pint of beans in two or three waters 
 (pick out i;ny discoloured ones that there may te) 
 and leave them to soak in plenty of cold water 
 until'the next day. Drain them, and boil them 
 in fresh water until they are tender but un- 
 broken. Drain them once more, and put them 
 on a dish in the oven to keep warm. Take three 
 ounces of onions, which have been three-parts 
 boiled, chop them small, and fry in two 
 ounces of butter, and whilst frying, mix with 
 them the boiled beans. Stir them about with a 
 fork, and moisten with a quarter of a pint of 
 good brown gravy rather highly seasoned. This 
 is an excellent accompaniment to roast meat. 
 Time, an hour and a half to boil the beans. 
 Probable cost, 4d. per quart. Sufiicient for four 
 or five persons. 
 
 HARICOT BEANS, WITH TOMATO SAUCE. 
 
 Soak the beans for twelve hours, then put 
 them into a saucepan with enough water to 
 cover, an onion, a piece of celery, a turnip, an 
 ounce of butter ; add pepper and salt to taste. 
 Boil slowly till soft, then take out' the vege- 
 
HAR 
 
 306 
 
 HAR 
 
 tables, drain the beans quickly, pile them high 
 on a dish, and pour over them some thick tomato 
 sauce. Garnish round with croiitons. 
 
 HARICOT BEEF, AUSTRALIAN. 
 
 {See Tinned Austealian Meats.) 
 
 HARICOT MUTTON (a good family dish). 
 
 Take three pounds of the neck of mutton, 
 divide it into cutlets, trim them neatly, and fry 
 them in a little dripping till nicely browned, 
 and with them three carrots, two turnips, and 
 an onion, all sliced. Drain them from the fat, 
 and put them into a saucepan. Pour over them 
 a quart of water, which has been boiled in the 
 pan in which the meat, etc., was fried, and 
 thicken with a table-spoonful of flour, mixed 
 smoothly with » little cold water. Skim care- 
 fully, and season with salt and pepper and a 
 little ketchup, according to taste. Simmer for 
 an hour. Serve with the meat in the middle of 
 the dish, the vegetables round it, and the gravy 
 poured over all. A few sippets of toasted bread 
 may be placed at the bottom of the dish, or 
 served as a garnish. A few haricot beans (see 
 Haricot Beans, to BoiIj) are a great improve- 
 ment. Probable cost, 2s. lOd. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 
 HARICOT MUTTON (4 la Bourgeoise). 
 
 Divide three pounds of the neck or breast of 
 mutton into neat cutlets, and fry them in a 
 little dripping till they are lightly browned. 
 Pour over them a pint and a half of boiling 
 stock, or, failing this, water, and add a large 
 onion, stuck with three or four cloves, a bunch 
 of parsley, and three or four peppercorns. Sim- 
 mer gently for three-quarters of an hour. Strain 
 the gravy, put it back into the saucepan, and 
 with it a dozen turnips cut into pieces, and 
 already, stewed in a, little gravy. Serve the 
 turnips in the same dish with the mutton and 
 the gravy. If preferred, potatoes may be sub- 
 stituted for the turnips, as in Haricot, Nob- 
 MANDT, but they must be kept whole, or the 
 appearance of the dish will be spoilt. Probable 
 cost, 2s. lOd. Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 HARICOT, NORMANDY. 
 
 Take two pounds of veal from the fillet, cut 
 it into slices three-quarters of an inch in thick- 
 ness, and divide these into neat pieces three 
 inches long by two inches broad. Beat them 
 flat with a cutlet bat, season them with pepper 
 and salt, dip them in flour, and fry them to a 
 light brown in a little butter, and with three or 
 four slices of lean ham. Lift them into a 
 saucepan, pour over them a pint of boiling 
 gravy, and add a table-spoonful of scalded and 
 chopped parsley. Let them simmer gently for 
 three-quarters of an hour; draw the saucepan 
 to the side, and put three pounds of new pota- 
 toes, or old ones cut in half, in the pan with 
 them, and simmer again until the potatoes are 
 sufficiently cooked. Serve as hot as possible, 
 and send young green peas, French beans, or 
 stewed carrots to table with them. Probable 
 cost, 3s. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 HARICOT OF ROEBUCK. 
 
 Take four pounds of the neck of a roebuck, 
 divide it into cutlets about an inch in thick- 
 ness, and fry these in hot dripping- till brightly 
 
 browned. Draw them from the fat, put them 
 into a clean saucepan, and pour over them as 
 much boiling stock or water as will cover the 
 meat. Remove the scum carefully as it rises, 
 and, when the gravy boils, put with it two or 
 three carrots, turnips, and onions, all cut into 
 small pieces, and fried for three or four min- 
 utes in the fat which was used for the meat. 
 Simmer gently for an hour. Season with pep- 
 per and salt, and thicken the gravy with a 
 little flour and butter. Just before serving, 
 dissolve two table-spoonfuls of red currant jelty 
 in the saucCj and add a quarter of a pint of 
 port or claret. Time, two hours. Probable 
 cost. Is. 4d. or Is. 6d. per pound. Sufficient for 
 six or eight persons. 
 
 HARICOT OX TAIL. 
 
 Slice an onion and fry it in a little butter; 
 chop an ox tail into small pieces, and put them 
 into the saucepan with the onion. Add six 
 cloves, one piece of ginger, pepper and salt to 
 taste, and allow it to simmer for about an 
 hour. Cut three turnips and three carrots into 
 slices, not too thin, put with the ox tail, and 
 stew for another hour and a half. Thicken with 
 a little flour, and, if not dark enough, : add a 
 few drops of browning. 
 
 HARICOTS, GREEN, TO PRESERVE. 
 
 In order to preserve these vegetables for 
 winter use, gather them on a dry day, and put 
 them at once into wide-mouthed bottles, cork 
 securely, and put them into a saucepan of cold 
 water. Let them remain in the water for an 
 hour after it boils, tie a bladder over the corks, 
 and keep the bottles in a dry place. Probable 
 cost, 2d. per pound. 
 
 HARROGATE PUDDING (sometimes called Warwick- 
 shire Pudding). 
 Beat three ounces of fresh butter to a 
 cream, v/ork in with it three ounces of pounded 
 and sifted sugar, three ounces of fine fiour, half 
 an ounce of candied lemon-peel, finely minced, 
 and the grated rind of half a lemon. Stir these 
 ingredients briskly together, and add a table- 
 spoonful of thick cream, three eggs, well beaten, 
 and a table-spoonful of brandy. Beat all to- 
 gether for ten minutes, pour the mixture into 
 well-buttered cups, and bake in a good oven. 
 Soak the rind of a lemon in half a pint of water, 
 with two table-spoonfuls of sugar, until the 
 flavour is extracted. Let the water boil, and, 
 when cool, add a table-spoonful of brandy, the 
 juice of the lemon, and a few drops of cocMneal. 
 Turn the puddings out, pour the sauce round 
 them, sift a little sugar over, and serve im- 
 mediately. Time, twenty minutes to bake. 
 Sufficient for four persons. Probable cost, lOd., 
 exclusive of the brandy. 
 
 HARROGATE SAUCE (for Wild-fowl). 
 
 Mix a pinch of grated lemon-rind and a 
 chopped shallot, and pour over them a table- 
 spoonful of lemon-juice, and a table-spoonful 
 of mushroom or walnut ketchup, add half a tea- 
 spoonful of powdered mace and three grains of 
 cayenne, and let them infuse for half an hour. 
 Mix a table-spoonful of boiling water with the 
 gravy which comes from the fowl, put it into a 
 saucepan with the other ingredients, and sim- 
 mer for ten minutes. Add a wine-glassful of 
 
HAR 
 
 307 
 
 HAS 
 
 claret, strain, and serve in a tureen. Probable 
 cost, 3d., exclusive of the wine. Sufifioient for 
 three or four persons. . 
 
 HARSLET, PIG'S. 
 
 Wash the heart, lights, liver, and sweetbread 
 in lukewarm water, and boil them gently for 
 half an hour. Take them out, drain them,: cut 
 them into neat slices, season with a little pep- 
 per and salt, and dredge some flour over them. 
 Pry them in a little hot dripping or lard, and 
 with them half a pound of streaky bacon, also 
 sliced. Garnish with fried parsley. Mix a tea- 
 spoonful of made mustard with half a tea-spoon- 
 ful of salt and a ciuarter of a tea-spoonful of 
 pepper. Stir this into three table-spoonfuls of 
 boiling gravy, add three table-spoonfuls of 
 claret, and serve the sauce in a tureen. If pre- 
 ferred, the harslet may ba stewed with half a 
 pint of gravy and a sliced onion. Time, ten 
 minutes to fry the meat. Probable cost, 8d. 
 or lOd. ■ Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 HARTSHORN JELLY. 
 
 Boil half a pound of hartshorn shavings in 
 four pints of water for three hours. ■ Strain 
 through a jelly-bag anS boil it again for half 
 an hour with the thin rind of two lemons and 
 one orange. When cool, add the juice, half a 
 pound of sugar, a wine-glassful of brandy, and 
 the beaten whites and crushed shells of six 
 eggs. Boil the Jelly again for a few minutes 
 without stirring, and strain it until it is quite 
 clear. Half an ounce of isinglass may be dis- 
 solved in it if it does not seem likely to stiffen. 
 The above quantities are sufficient fbr nearly 
 three pints of jelly. 
 
 HARVEY'S, OR CAMP VINEGAR. 
 
 Mince a clove of garlic very finely. • Add six 
 chopped anchovies, a quarter of an ounce of 
 cayenne, three table-spoonfuls of Indian soy, 
 and three of mushroom or walnut ketchup. Put 
 these into a quart of the best vinegar, and let 
 them soak for about a month, shaking them fre- 
 quently. Strain through muslin, and bottle for 
 use. The probable cost will be Is. per pint. 
 One dessert-spoonful may be added to a pint of 
 sauce or gravy. 
 
 HASH, BEEF. 
 
 {See Beep, Hash.) 
 
 HASH, COLD BEEF OR MUTTON. 
 
 Cut one pound of col4 meat into neat slices, 
 free from skin and gristle.. Put a large onion, 
 finely minced, into a saucepaUj., and with it 
 two ounces of butter and a table-spoonful ,of 
 flour. Stir over the fire until, the ingredients 
 are smoothly mixed and brown, being careful 
 that they do not burn. Add gradually half a 
 pint of good stock qr water, and the bones and 
 trimmings, and simmer gently until the sauce 
 is as thick as cream. Strain it, return to the 
 fire, put in the pieces of meat, and let them re- 
 main until they are quite hot, but the sauce 
 must not boil after the meat is added, or the 
 latter will be hard. A hash may be varied by 
 the addition of finely-minced green pickles, a 
 dozen stewed mushrooms, or half a dozen toina- 
 toes, but these should be added to the sauce be- 
 fore the meat is put. in, so that there will be no 
 necessity for its remaining in the gravy too long. 
 
 Serve with toasted sippets round the dish. Time, 
 about an hour. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of 
 the meat. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 HASH, COMMON. 
 
 Cut a. pound of mutton into thin slices. 
 Season with salt and pepper, and dredge a little 
 flour over them. Stew a finely-minced onion in 
 half a pint of stock or water for thirty minutes. 
 Flavour it with a table-spoonful of mushroom 
 ketchup. Put in th^ pieces of mutton, stew 
 gently for two or three minutes,- till the flour 
 has thickened the sauce and lost its raw taste, 
 serve on a hot dish, and garnish with toasted 
 sippets. Probable cost, 2d., exclusive of the 
 cold meat. Sufficient for three persons. 
 
 HASH, CRACKER (a sailor's dish). 
 
 Pound some captain's biscuits very flne, and 
 pass through a sieve; chop some onion and salt 
 meat, and add them ; season with pepper and 
 savoury herbs ; pour scalding water on the mix- 
 ture. When it is thoroughly soaked, add a 
 little chopped fat, put into baking-pans, and 
 bake until the meat is cooked. 
 
 HASHES, GRAVY FOR. 
 
 {See Geavz foe Hashes.) 
 
 HASHES, SAUCE FOR. 
 
 The following store sauce will be found useful 
 to improve the flavour of gravies for hashes and 
 rechauffes. Put four chopped anchovies, an. 
 eighth of a pint of vinegar, tv/o blades of mace, 
 a bay-leaf, two pounded cloves, a minced onion, 
 a dozen peppercorns, a bunch of savoury herbs, 
 and a tea-spoonful of scraped horse-radish, into 
 a saucepan, and simmer gently until the an- 
 chovies are dissolved. Add half a pint of 
 elaret, simmer ten minutes longer, strain and 
 bottle for use. Time, half an hour. Probable 
 cost, 4d., exclusive of the wine. ( 
 
 HASH, NEW YORK. 
 
 To eyery cupful of cooked chopped meat take 
 two , cupfuls of chopped potatoes, half a cupful 
 of boiling water or stock, two table-spoonfuls 
 of butter, and seasonings to taste. Season the 
 meat and potatoes; put the water and butter 
 over the fire, and when- the water boils. add the 
 meat and potatoes. The difficulty of making 
 good hash lies in the cooking, for it must be 
 stirred, yet not too much, or it will be pasty; 
 the water should boil away, yet the liash must 
 neither be dry nor watery. Let it cook, stir- 
 ring occasionally, until there is a coating on the 
 bottom of the pan from which the hash can be 
 freed without sticking, Serve at once. For 
 this dish beef, is most generally taken, although 
 corned beef, chicken, turkey, veal, or even 
 mutton may be used. Many people like a 
 slight flavouring of onion, when it is better to 
 use a few drops of onion- juice rather than the 
 chopped onion itself. 
 
 HASH, SUPERIOR. 
 
 Peel . two dozen button-onions, dredge them 
 with flour, and fry them with two ounces of 
 butter till they are brightly browned. Pour 
 over them half a pint of good broth, add a 
 little salt and pepper, and a table-spoonful of 
 lemon-juice, and either a table-spoonful of 
 mushroom ketchup or a few stewed mushrooms. 
 
HAS 
 
 o08 
 
 HEA 
 
 and simmer gently until the onions are quite 
 tender. Pour tlie gravy over the slices of meat, 
 and let them remain until required. Put the 
 contents of the dish into a saucepan, and let 
 them get as hot as possible without boiling. 
 Serve immediately. A glass of claret or port is 
 an improvement. Time, an hour. Probable 
 cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient 
 for three or four persons. 
 
 HASTY PUDDING. 
 
 Put a pint and a half of milk into a saxice- 
 pan, add a pinch of salt, and, when the milk is 
 just boiling up, sprinkle some fine flour with 
 the left hand, and beat well with a fork with 
 the right, to keep the flour from getting in 
 lumps. Continue until the pudding is like a 
 stiff thick batter, which it will be when about 
 half a pound of flour has been used. Let it boil 
 five or six minutes longer, beating it all the 
 time; then turn it into a dish with two or 
 three ounces of fresh butter, and serve imme- 
 diately. Unless the milk is quite boiling when 
 the flour is first put in no amount of boiling 
 afterwards will prevent the pudding tasting 
 pasty. Treacle, sugar, thick cream, or jam 
 may be eaten with this pudding. Probable 
 cost, 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 HASTY PUDDING (another way). 
 
 Begin as in the last recipe. When the flour 
 has been well mixed with the milk, add four 
 well-beaten eggs. Beat all over the fire five 
 minutes longer, and serve as before. Time, a 
 quarter of an hour after the milk boils. Prob- 
 able cost, lOd. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 HASTY PUDDING, BAKED. 
 
 Mix two ounces of flour in a pint of boiling 
 milk. Beat it over the fire till it is as stiff as 
 batter, then pour it out, sweeten and flavour 
 according to taste, and add an ounce of fresh 
 butter. When cold, stir in three well-beaten 
 eggs. Spread a little marmalade or jam at the 
 bottom of a deep pie-dish. Pour in the mix- 
 ture and bake in a good oven. Time, half an 
 hour to bake. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for 
 three persons. 
 
 HASTY PUDDING, OATMEAL. 
 
 {See Oatmeai/ Hasty Puddino.) 
 HASTY PUDDING, OR FARMER'S RICE. 
 
 Mix a well-beaten egg with as much flour as 
 it will moisten. Eub it between the hands 
 until it is in small dry lumps, like bread-crumbs. 
 Stir these into a quart of boiling milk, and 
 beat over the fire until the pudding is thick and 
 smooth. Serve with treacle, butter, sugar, or 
 cream. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 
 5d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 HASTY PUFFS. 
 
 Stir two ounces of flour quickly and smoothly 
 into half a pint of boiling milk which has been 
 sweetened and flavoured with lemon-rind or 
 nutmeg. Boil up, then add two ounces of but- 
 ter, and, when cool, two eggs, well beaten. 
 Butter four small moulds. Pour a quarter of 
 the mixture into each, and bake in a good oven. 
 Turn out before serving, and place a little jam 
 on the top of each puff. Time, ten to fifteen 
 minutes to bake. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient 
 for four persons. 
 
 HASTY SOUP. 
 
 Take three tea-spoonfuls of Bovril, two of 
 tomato sauce, and a little salt and pepper. Stir 
 all these into a pint of hot water and briiig to 
 the boil. Let it boil for a few minutes, and the 
 soup is ready. 
 
 HAWTHORN LIQUOR (for seasoning Puddings and 
 sweet dishe?). 
 Fill a wide-mouthed bottle with blossoms of 
 the white hawthorn, which have been gathered 
 on a dry day. Shake them together, but do not 
 press them down. Fill the bottle with good 
 brandy, let the hawthorn infuse for three 
 months, then strain off the liquor, pour it into 
 small bottles, and cork securely. Half a tea- 
 spoonful of hawthorn liquor will flavour a pint 
 of custard. 
 
 HAZEL-NUT CAKES. 
 
 Mince two ounces of hazel-nuts and half an 
 ounce of sweet almonds very finely. Add three 
 ounces of pounded and sifted sugar, the white of 
 an egg, beaten to a firm froth, and as much flour 
 as will bind them together. Roll the paste out 
 till it is a quarter of an inch thick, stamp it out 
 in small round cakes, place these on well-but- 
 tered tins, and bake in a slow oven. Time, 
 twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, 4d. 
 Sufficient for six or eight cakes. 
 
 HEART, BULLOCK'S. 
 
 Wash the heart in several waters, clean the 
 blood carefully from the pipes, and put it to 
 soak in vinegar and water for two hours or 
 more. Drain it and fill it either with hare force- 
 meat or sage-and-onion stuffing. Fasten it 
 securely, tie it in a cloth, put it into a pan of 
 boiling water, and let it simmer gently for two 
 hours. Take off the cloth, and roast the heart 
 while hot, basting it plentifully with good 
 dripping for two hours longer. Serve with 
 good brown gravy and currant jelly, if veal 
 forcemeat has been used, and apple jelly if the 
 heart has been stuffed with sage and onions. 
 The stewing may be omitted, and the heart 
 simply roasted for three or four hours, but the 
 flesh will not then be so tender. Probable cost 
 of heart, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for six or seven 
 persons. 
 
 HEART, BULLOCK'S, HASHED. 
 
 Take the remains of a bullock's heart, and 
 cut into neat slices. Take also a cupful of 
 gravy, that which was served with the heart 
 will answer excellently; mix with it a quarter 
 of a pint of port, claret, or ale, and thicken it 
 with a little flour, mixed smoothly in a small 
 quantity of water. Let it boil for a few min- 
 utes, then dissolve a table-spoonful of red cur- 
 rant jelly in it, put in the slices of heart, and, 
 when these are heated through, serve imme- 
 diately, with toasted sippets to garnish the dish. 
 The gravy must not boil after the slices of heart 
 are added. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 
 exclusive of the cold meat and wine, 3d. Suf- 
 ficient for three or four persons. 
 
 HEART, BULLOCK'S, STEWED. 
 
 Prepare a heart as in the last recipe. Soak 
 it in vinegar and water, fill it with hare force- 
 meat, and put it in a saucepan, the broad end 
 uppermost, and with it a sliced turnip and car- 
 
HEA 
 
 309 
 
 HER 
 
 rot, an onion stuck with four cloves, half a 
 tea-spoonful of bruised celery-seed, tied in 
 muslin, two tea-spoonfuls of salt, one tea-spoon- 
 ful of moist sugar, and a quarter of a tea-spoon- 
 ful of cayenne. Pour over the heart a pint of 
 good Btock, or, failing this, water, and half a 
 pint of beer. Cover the pan closely, and when 
 the liquid has once boiled, draw it a. little to 
 the side, and simmer gently for five hours. Send 
 the gravy in which it was stewed to table with 
 it. Probable cost of heart, 2s. 6d. Sufficient 
 for six or seven persona. 
 
 HEART, CALF'S. 
 
 Wash the heart very clean, soak it in vinegar 
 and water, fill it with a forcemeat made of four 
 ounces of crumb of bread, two ounces of butter, 
 two table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, half a 
 tea-spoonful of finely-minced lemon-rind, and a 
 little salt and cayenne. Fasten the heart 
 securely, and roast before a clear fire for from an 
 hour and a half to two hours. Serve it with 
 good melted butter mixed with a table-spoonful 
 of lemon-juice or vinegar. A calf's heart is im- 
 proved by partially boiling it before it is 
 roasted. It may be baked, if more convenient, 
 in a good oven, but in either case should be 
 liberally basted. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 HEART, CALF'S (another way). 
 
 Wash and soak the heart, cut it into slices 
 about a quarter of an inch thick, and fry these 
 in a little hot dripping or butter. About five 
 minutes before they are done put a slice of 
 bacon into the pan for each slice of heart, and 
 when they are sufficiently cooked serve on a hot 
 dish, and cover each piece of heart with a slice 
 of bacon. Boil two or three table-spoonfuls of 
 thin flour and water in the pan in which the 
 meat was fried. Season it with pepper and salt, 
 add one table-spoonful of red currant jelly, and 
 serve as hot as possible. Time, fifteen minutes 
 to fry the slices of heart. Probable cost, 3s. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 HEART, SHEEP'S, BAKED. 
 
 Wash two or three sheep's hearts in luke- 
 warm water, fill them with veal forcemeat, and 
 skewer them securely. Fasten a rasher of fat 
 bacon round each, place them in a deep dish, 
 and with them a little good stock, and an onion 
 stuck with two cloves. Bake in a moderate 
 oven for two hours. Draw off the gravy. Thicken 
 with a little flour and butter, and flavour it 
 with pepper and salt and a table-spoonful of 
 mushroom or walnut ketchup. Put the hearts 
 on a hot dish, pour the gravy over them, and 
 send red currant jelly with them to table. 
 Probable cost, 8d. each. Sufficient, two for four 
 persons. 
 
 HEARTS, SHEEP'S, WITH BATTER PUDDING. 
 
 Prepare two hearts as in the last recipe. Bake 
 them for one hour; then drain them from the 
 gravy, put them into a deep, well-buttered 
 pie-dish, and pour round them a batter made 
 thus. Mix four heaped table-spoonfuls of fine 
 flour smoothly with a quarter of a pint of milk 
 and water. Add the beaten yolks of two eggs, 
 a pinch of salt, and, when the flour is smooth 
 and free from lumps, another quarter of a pint 
 of milk. Let this be made, if possible, an hour 
 
 before the batter is wanted. Just before put- 
 ting it in the oven stir in the whites of the eggs 
 well whisked. Bake until the pudding is done 
 enough. Thicken and flavour the gravy in 
 which the meat was stewed, and send it to table 
 in a tureen. Time, two hours. Probable cost, 
 about Is. lOd. It will be sufficient for four or 
 five persons. 
 
 HEDGEHOG, APPLE. 
 
 (See Apple Hedgehos.) 
 
 HEDGEHOG PUDDING. 
 
 Shred half a pound of beef suet very finely. 
 Mix with it a quarter of a pound of flour, a 
 quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, half a 
 pound of currants, half a pound of raisins, half 
 a pound of sugar, one ounce each of candied 
 lemon, orange, and citron, half a nutmeg, 
 grated, a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice, a small 
 pinch of salt, three or four sweet almonds, 
 blanched and sliced, four eggs, and as much ale 
 as will make the pudding into a stiff paste. 
 Mix the dry ingredients first ; afterwards add the 
 eggs and ale. Tie the pudding in a cloth, 
 plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boil- 
 ing for five hours. Have ready three ounces of 
 blanched almonds. Stick them into the pud- 
 ding before sending it to table, and serve with 
 brandy sauce. Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 Probable cost. Is. lOd. 
 
 HEIDELBERG PUNCH, OR HEBE'S CUP. 
 
 Take a fresh frame-grown cucumber. Cut an 
 inch and a half of it into thin slices, and put- 
 them into a punch-bowl with the thin rind of a 
 sound lemon and three table-spoonfuls of 
 pounded sugar. Work them well together for 
 four or five minutes with the back of a wooden 
 spoon; then pour over them three table-spoon- 
 fuls of brandy, six of sherry, a bottle of soda- 
 water, and a bottle of claret. Mix these in- 
 gredients thoroughly, and let them remain for 
 one hour. Just before serving add another 
 bottle of soda-water. Probable cost, 6d., ex- 
 clusive of the spirits and wine. Sufficient for a 
 three-pint bowl. 
 
 HENRIETTE PUDDING, OR HELENA PUDDING. 
 
 Pour three-quarters of a pint of boiling milk 
 over two ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs. 
 Soak for half an hour, then beat with a fork, add 
 one table-spoonful of sugar, a piece of butter the 
 . size of a large egg, two ounces of finely-chopped 
 candied lemon, and the yolks of three well- 
 beaten eggs. Spread a little apricot or currant 
 jam at the bottom of a pie-dish; at the last 
 moment add the whites of two of the eggs well 
 whisked, pour in the mixture, and bake in a 
 gentle oven for half an hour. Sufficient for three 
 or four persons. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 HERB KLOSSE, OR FORCEMEAT BALLS. 
 
 Prepare the herbs as in Heee Puddikg oe Pre, 
 using double the quantity of parsley to that of 
 any other herb. Mince them finely. Soak two 
 ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs in a little 
 milk. Squeeze it dry, and mix it with six ounces 
 of grated potatoes which have been boiled some 
 hours before. Add a table-spoonful of flour, 
 three well-beaten eggs, the eighth of a nutmeg, 
 grated, a little pepper and salt, and the minced 
 herbs. Stir all well together with a fork. 
 
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 310 
 
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 Handle the forcemeat as lightly as possible, and 
 when shaping it dip the hands in cold water, 
 and wet the spoon with which it is taken up. 
 Form it into balls the size of a large walnut, 
 drop them into boiling water, and let them boil 
 ten minutes. Melt an ounce of butter in a stew- 
 pan, and stir a table-spoonful of finely-grated 
 fried crumbs in it. Drain the klosse, sprinkle 
 the bread-crumbs over them, and serve immedi- 
 ately. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. 
 
 HERB OMELET (omelette aux Fines Herbes). 
 
 Break six eggs into a basin, add a table- 
 spoonful of cream, and beat up well; then 
 add two dessert-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, 
 including a small chopped shallot, a pinch of 
 sweet herbs, and pepper and salt to taste. Cut 
 a clove of garlic, and rub the inside of the 
 omelet-pan with the cut side. Melt one ounce 
 of butter in the pan, and when hot pour in the 
 egg mixture. Stir over a brisk fire with a fork 
 until the eggs begin to set, then roll towards the 
 side of the pan opposite the handle, and give 
 it the shape of an oval cushion. Let it become 
 a golden brown. Turn out on to a hot oval dish, 
 .aiid serve. 
 
 HERB PUDDING OR PIE. 
 
 Take two handfuls of parsley-leaves, one of 
 spinach, one of mustard-and-cresa, one of white 
 beet-leaves, one of finely-sliced lettuce-hearts, 
 three or four leaves of borage, and a dozen 
 chives. Wash these herbs well, and boil them 
 for three or four minutes. Drain the water from 
 them, chop them small, season with salt and 
 pepper, and spread them in a buttered dish. 
 Make a batter with five table-spoonfuls of i&our 
 and a pinch of salt, mixed smoothly with two 
 eggs and as much milk as will bring it to the 
 consistency of thick cream. Pour this over the 
 ierbs, stir all well together, and bake in a 
 moderate oven. If liked, the edges of the dish 
 can be lined with good pastry. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. Probable cost, 8d. 
 
 HERBS AND SPICES, AROMATIC SEASONING OF. 
 
 {See Aeomatic Seasoning of Hkebs and 
 Spices.) 
 
 HERBS, AROMATIC POWDERED, FOR SEASON- 
 ING. 
 
 Dry and pick away the stalks from three 
 ounces of thyme, three ounces of marjoram, 
 three ounces of basil, one ounce of bay-leaves, 
 and two ounces of winter savoury ; put them into 
 a mortar, and with them two cloves of garlic 
 finely minced, half an ounce of grated lemon- 
 peel, half an ounce of cayenne pepper, one ounce 
 of nutmeg, grated, one ounce of powdered mace, 
 two ounces of peppercorns, and two ounces of 
 cloves. Pound all thoroughly in a mortar, pass 
 the powder through a wire sieve, and put it into 
 bottles, which must be securely corked until 
 wanted. Time, one hour to prepare. Probable 
 cost. Is. 6d. for this quantity. Half a tea- 
 spoonful is enough for one pint of sauce. 
 
 HERB SAUCE. 
 
 Take two parts of parsley to one of chervil 
 and chives, chop them finely, and pour over as 
 much vinegar as will rather more than cover 
 them. Let them infuse at least an hour, to 
 
 draw out the flavour of the herbs. This is the 
 usual accompaniment on the Continent to 
 boiled calf's head. A small quantity of other 
 herbs, such as thyme, marjoram, basil, or sage, 
 may be used, if the flavour is liked, but they are 
 not generally included in herb sauce properly 
 so called. Probable cost, 6d. per half-pint. 
 Sulficient for four or five persons. 
 
 HERB SAUCE (another wjy). 
 
 Pick and wash the herbs. Take two bunches 
 of parsley to one of fennel and pne of mint, 
 boil them for three or four minutes, drain and 
 mince them finely, and stir them into half a 
 pint of boiling melted butter. Let the sauce 
 boil up, then pour it into a tureen, add a little 
 salt, and a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and 
 serve immediately. Probable cost, 4d. Suf- 
 ficient for two or three persons. 
 
 HERB SAUCE (for flavouring). 
 
 Slice a stick of horse-radish very finely, and 
 with it two shallots, and a clove of garlic. 
 Strip the leaves from a sprig of thyme, basil, 
 marjoram, winter savoury, and parsley, and put 
 all into a saucepan. Pour over them four table- 
 spoonfuls of vinegar, the juice of a lemon, and 
 a pint of cold water. Add a dozen peppercorns, 
 a, quarter of a salt-spoonful of cayenne, a salt- 
 spoonful of bruised celery-seed, a leaf of tarra- 
 gon, a dessert-spoonful of salt. Bring the sauce 
 to a boil, colour rather darkly with burnt sugar, 
 and let it simmer gentl,y for ten minutes. 
 Strain through a jelly-bag, and when cold, put 
 it into bottles, and cork securely until wanted 
 for use. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for one 
 pint and a quarter. 
 
 HERBS, BUNCH OF SWEET. 
 
 A bunch of sweet herbs, which is often men- 
 tioned in recipes for soups, stews, etc., consists 
 of two sprigs of parsley, one of orange or lemon 
 thyme, and one bay-leaf, or two sprigs of pars- 
 ley, one of sweet marjoram, one of winter 
 savoury, and one of lemon-thyme. These herbs 
 should be fastened securely together with 
 thread; they can then be easily removed before 
 the dish is served. {See also Bouquet Gaeni.) 
 
 HERBS, CHOPPING. 
 
 Pick off the leaves, wash and dry them in a 
 Dutch oven as quickly as possible without burn- 
 ing them. Hold the leaves firmly in the left 
 hand, and cut them through very finely with a 
 sharp knife. Turn the long shreds round, and 
 cut them finely the other way; then finish by 
 chopping with both hands with the knife. 
 
 HERBS, DRYING AND STORING FOR WINTER 
 USE. 
 
 Gather the herbs on a dry day. They are at 
 their greatest perfection just before they begin 
 to flower^ Cleanse them immediately, cut off 
 the roots, divide them into small bunches, and 
 dry them in a Dutch oven before the fire, or lay 
 them on dishes in a moderate oven. If this is 
 not convenient, they may be divided into 
 bunches, and laid on sheets of paper in the sun, 
 but the more quickly they are dried the better 
 will be their flavour. Care must be taken that 
 they do not burn. When dry, it is usual to tie 
 the herbs in paper bags, and keep them hanging 
 in a dry place until wanted, but it is much the 
 
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 311 
 
 HER 
 
 better plan to pick off the leaves, pound them 
 in a mortar, pass them through a sieve, and put 
 the powder into bottles, which must be kept 
 closely corked. 
 
 The different herbs should be gathered and 
 dried in the following months: — 
 Basil. The middle of August. 
 BuENKT. June, July, and August. 
 Chervil. May, June, and July. 
 Elder Floweb. May, June, and July. 
 Fennel. May, June, and July. 
 Knotted Marjokam. July. 
 Mint. The latter end of June and July. 
 Parslet. May, June, and July. 
 Sage. August and September. 
 Savoury, Summer. The latter end of July and 
 
 August. 
 Savoury, Winter. End of July and August. 
 Tarragon. June, July, and August. 
 Thyme. End of July and August. 
 Thyme, Lemon. End of July and August. 
 Thyme, Orange. June and July. 
 
 HERBS, ESSENCE OF, FOR SEASONING. 
 
 Squeeze the juice from four fresh lemons, 
 strain it, and put it into an earthenware jar, and 
 with it a bottle of white wine, and half a pint of 
 vinegar. Add a salt-spoonful each of powdered 
 cloves, mace, basil, thyme, and nutmeg, also 
 an ounce of dried parsley, half a pound of salt, 
 and two ounces of pepper. Put the pan in the 
 oven, and bring the contents to the point of 
 boiling, then put on the cover, and keep them 
 simmering gently for four hours. Strain the 
 liquid, filter it through blotting-paper, and keep 
 it in closely stoppered bottles till wanted for 
 use. Probable cost. Is., exclusive of the wine. 
 Three drops of the iessence are about enough 
 for a pint. Taste, and add more if required. 
 
 HERBS, FRIED. 
 
 Pick, wash, drain, and finely mince two hand- 
 fuls of spinach, one of parsley, and four or five 
 young onions. Put them into a stewpan, with 
 a pinch of salt, one ounce of butter, and one 
 table-spoonful of broth. Put on the lid and stew 
 them gently, shaking the pan frequently, and 
 be careful they do not "burn. Fried herbs are 
 often served as an accompaniment to calf's 
 liver. Time, ten or fifteen, minutes. Probable 
 cost, 2d. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 HERBS, LAMB CHOPS WITH. 
 
 (See Lamb Chops vtith Herbs.) 
 
 HERB SOUP. 
 
 Take a handful each of chervil, parsley, 
 spinach, and sorrel, and half a dozen young 
 cabbage lettuces. Wash, drain, and shred them 
 finely, and put them into a stewpan, with four 
 ounces of butter, two or three sliced carrots, and 
 a little pepper and salt. Let them steam for 
 half an hour, shaking the pan occasionally to 
 prevent burning. Pour in three quarts of clear 
 soup, and simmer for twenty minutes. Add a 
 little grated nutmeg. Strain the soup, beat the 
 yolks of three eggs with half a pint of milk, and 
 stir it in gently just before serving. This soup 
 may be varied by the addition of a quart of 
 green peas, a cucumber cut into slices and fried 
 in butter, or a few onions. When peas are put 
 in, however, the sorrel should be omitted. Prob- 
 
 able cost. Is. 6d. per quart. Sufficient for seven 
 or eight persons. 
 
 HERBS, POWDER OF. 
 
 Weigh the leaves of the dried herbs {see 
 Herbs, Drying and Storing for Winter Use), 
 after they are separated from the stalks. Take 
 two ounces of lemon-thyme, two of sweet mar- 
 joram, two of winter savoury, two of basil, four 
 of dried parsley, and one ounce of finely-minced 
 lemon-rind. Pound these thoroughly in a mor- 
 tar, sift the powder through a wire sieve, and 
 keep it in bottles closely stoppered for use. 
 
 HERBS, VINEGAR OF. s 
 
 The flavour of herbs may be extracted by 
 being soaked in vinegar, and in this form may 
 be used for soups and sauces, when fresh herbs 
 cannot be obtained. Gather the herbs on a dry 
 day, and at the proper season. Pick the leaves 
 from the stalks, and fill a wide-mouthed bottle 
 with them. The leaves may be shaken together, 
 but must not be pressed down. Pour the best 
 pickling vinegar over them, let them infuse for 
 a month, then strain and bottle for use. Prob- 
 able cost, lOd. per pint. 
 
 HERBS, WINES OF. 
 
 Herbs may be infused in wine instead of 
 vinegar, and when this is done, the essence will 
 be found useful for those dishes in which the 
 acidity imparted by vinegar is not required. 
 Proceed as, with vinegar (see the preceding 
 recipe), using sherry, claret, or any light wine 
 to fill the bottle. As wine is stronger than vine- 
 gar, a fortnight will be found sufficient to ex- 
 tract the flavour. Time, about two weeks to 
 infuse. 
 
 HER MAJESiTY'S PUDDING. 
 
 Flavour half a pint of cream or new milk with 
 half an ounce of pounded almonds, or if pre- 
 ferred, a little lemon or ratafia flavouring. 
 Simmer gently, and when lukewarm, pour the 
 milk gradually over two well-beaten eggs. Stir 
 the mixture over the fire for a minute or two, 
 until it begins to thicken, then take.it off and 
 sweeten it, and when quite cool pour it into a 
 buttered mould which has been lined with a 
 small spongecake, previously, sliced and soaked 
 in sherry. Place a cover on the mould and 
 steam the pudding. When done enough, let it 
 stand a minute or two before turning it out, and 
 ornament with crystallised fruit of different 
 colours. Time, three-quarters of an hour to 
 steam. Probable cost, 8d., if made with milk. 
 Sufficient for two persons. 
 
 HERRINGS. 
 
 These delicate and delicious fish, which visit 
 the British Islands in shoals, are at their best 
 in July and August. They may be cooked in 
 many ways, for all of which recipes will be 
 given. Tliere is a difference of opinion as to 
 the time when the herring is in season. The 
 fact is there are varieties of this fish, and one 
 kind or another is to be had at any time except- 
 ing the early spring. 
 
 HERRINGS (au Gratin). 
 
 Clean the fish and wipe them dry.' Cut off the 
 heads and tails, open them down the back, and 
 take out the backbone and as many others as 
 
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 312 
 
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 possible. Chop up a small piece of onion and 
 a bunch of parsley, previously picked and 
 washed; add a dessert-spoonful of finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs, a tea-spoonful of mixed herbs, a 
 little pepper and salt, and a few drops of lemon- 
 juice. Mix all together, sprinkle the mixture 
 upon the inner side of one herring, and lay the 
 other herring upon it, making a sort of sand- 
 wich of the two. Put the fish thus placed one 
 pair on the top of the other in a greased tin ; 
 lay small pieces of dripping here and there upon 
 them, cover with a dish or greased paper, and 
 bake in a moderate oven for half an hour, bast- 
 ing occasionally. Lift carefully upon a hot dish, 
 and serve. 
 
 HERRINGS, CURRIED. 
 
 Cut the heads off six herrings, bone them, and 
 remove the roes. Put them in a pan of slightly 
 acidulated water, and let it boil up' quickly. 
 Have ready in a saucepan an onion chopped and 
 slightly browned in butter; put in with it a 
 table-spoonful of curry powder, stir for a few 
 seconds, then add half a gill of white wine and 
 a little fish stock. Put in a pinch of roughly 
 chopped parsley, a bay-leaf, and salt to taste, 
 ana let this boil. Arrange the herrings and 
 roes in the saucepan, and let them be no more 
 than covered by the liquor. Set it over the fire 
 to boil up again ; put the cover on, and draw 
 the saucepan aside. After about ten minutes 
 remove the herrings and roes with a fish sliccr ; 
 put them on a hot dish, strain the sauce over, 
 and serve. 
 
 HERRINGS, DUTCH, FRIED. 
 
 Wash the herrings, and soak them in milk for 
 a couple of hours. Drain and dry them, cut off ths 
 fins, dip the fish in flour, egg and bread-crumb 
 them, and fry them in hot fat. Send potatoes 
 in any form to table with them. Time, seven or 
 eight minutes tcfry. Probable cost. Id. or l^d. 
 each. Sufficient, half a dozen for three persons. 
 
 HERRINGS, FRESH, BAKED. 
 
 Scale and clean the herrings carefully, with- 
 out washing them. Cut off the heads, tails, and 
 fins ; split the fish open, and take out the back- 
 bone. Sprinkle a little salt, pepper, and 
 pounded mace over them, both inside and out, 
 lay them in a deep baking-dish, and arrange 
 the roes at the top. Cover them with vinegar 
 and water in equal proportions, and put three 
 or four bay-leaves or cloves into the liquid. 
 Bake for one hour. They are much better eaten 
 cold than hot. When the backbone is removed 
 they may be neatly rolled before baking. Prob- 
 able cost. Id. or IJd. each. Sufficient, half a 
 dozen for three persons. 
 
 HERRINGS, FRESH, BOILED. 
 
 Few fish are more delicious than fresh herrings 
 boiled. Wash, scale, and gut them, sprinkle a 
 little salt over them, and dip them once quickly 
 in vinegar; skewer them securely with their 
 tails in their mouths, put them into boiling 
 water, and simmer very gently until done 
 enough, when- they must be taken out immedi- 
 ately. Drain the water from them, and arrange 
 them neatly on a dish; garnish with parsley or 
 scraped horse-radish, and send shrimp, anchovy, 
 or parsley sauce to table in a tureen. Time, 
 about twelve minutes to simmer. Probable cost. 
 
 Id. or IJd. each. Sufficient, half a dozen for 
 
 three persons. 
 
 HERRINGS, FRESH, BROILED. 
 
 Fresh herrings are better for broiling when 
 they have been salted for a night, as this both 
 renders them firmer and improves their flavour. 
 Scale and gut the fish without opening them, 
 score them to the bone in two or three places, 
 draw them through oil on a dish, and broil them 
 over a clear fire. Lift them gently now and 
 then, to prevent their sticking to the bars, anc 
 when one side is done enough, turn the fisl 
 gently to tha other. Serve immediately. Squeeze 
 the juice of a lemon over the herrings before 
 sending them to table. The roes must be fried 
 and served with them. Time, about fifteen 
 minutes. Probable cost. Id. or IJd. each. Suf- 
 ficient, half a dozen for three persons. 
 
 HERRINGS, FRESH, BROILED (in the Scotch style). 
 Scale, gut, cut off the heads, tails, and fins, 
 and wash the herrings, flatten them with great 
 care, remove the backbone, and any little bones 
 tliat can be taken out with it. Sprinkle the 
 inside of each fish with a little pepper and salt ; 
 then place them together in pairs, and press the 
 two inner surfaces as close as possible. Dip 
 them in oatmeal, lay them on the gridiron over 
 a clear fire, and when the undermost fish is 
 broiled, turn them quickly and carefully, with- 
 out separating them. Serve as hot as possible. 
 A bloater and a fresh herring may be broiled 
 together in this way, but when this is done, the 
 bloater should be well rubbed inside with butter 
 before being laid on the fresh fish, and the oat- 
 meal omitted from it. Time, about fifteei 
 minutes to broil. Sufficient for one person. 
 Probable cost. Id. or IJd. each. 
 
 HERRINGS, FRESH, CHOOSING. 
 
 Choose fresh herrings which are plump in 
 shape, bright and silvery in look, and with their 
 scales uninjured. When they are bloodshot 
 about the eyes, they have been dead some time. 
 When many of the scales have come oS^ they 
 have been crushed together in large heaps, either 
 in the fishing-boats or^in baskets. 
 
 HERRINGS, FRESH, FRIED. 
 
 Clean and scale four fresh herrings. Cut off 
 the fins, and either score the fish lightly in three 
 or four places, or open them along the under- 
 side, and take out the bone. Season them with 
 a little salt and pepper; flour, and afterwards 
 brush them over with beaten egg, and sprinkle 
 bread-crumbs over them. Fry them in a very 
 little hot fat, and drain them well before serv- 
 ing. The roes should be taken out, egged and 
 crumbed separately, fried, and sent to table with 
 the fish. Stir a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, 
 and half a tea-spoonful of vinegar into half a 
 pint of melted butter, and send this sauce in a 
 tureen to table with the herrings. Time, three 
 minutes each side. Probable cost of herrings, 
 4d. Sufficient for two persons. 
 
 HERRINGS, FRESH, FRIED (another way). 
 
 Take half a dozen herrings, scrape off the 
 scales, cut off the heads and fins, cut the fish 
 open down the back, and wipe with a soft 
 cloth, but do not wash them. Slice two or three 
 onions, and fry them for two or three minutes in 
 
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 313 
 
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 hot fat. Dip the herrings in butter, and fry 
 them with tlie onions, until done enough. Send 
 to table with the onions in the dish with them, 
 and parsley and butter in a tureen. Time, six 
 or seven minutes. Probable cost. Id. or IJd. 
 each. Sufficient, balf a dozen for three persons. 
 HERRINGS, KIPPERED. 
 
 Take the required number of kippered her- 
 rings, cut off the heads and tails, put a small 
 piece of butter and some pepper between each 
 pair. They may then be baked in a moderate 
 oven for fifteen minutes, or grilled over a clear 
 fire. 
 
 HERRINGS, MARINADED (a German recipe). 
 
 Put some white salted herrings into cold milk, 
 to soak for a couple of hours. Split them open, 
 take out the bones, cut each half-herring into 
 three pieces, and divide the roes lengthwise. 
 Put all in layers into a deep jar, and between 
 each layer place a sprinkling of finely-minced 
 shallot, pounded cloves, and white pepper, with 
 here and there a piece of bay-leaf and a slice of 
 fresh lemon with half the rind taken off. Place 
 the roe with the herring, and the seasoning 
 over the top layer, and cover the whole well 
 with vinegar. Pour three or four table-spoon- 
 fuls of salad-oil over the vinegar, and leave it 
 until required. The pieces of herring should 
 be drained when wanted, and served either with 
 cheese or as a relish for salads, breakfast, 
 luncheon, etc. They may be used in a couple 
 of days, but will keep good for some time. 
 Probable cost, about!~,ls. per dozen. 
 
 HERRINGS, PICKLED. 
 
 Take half a pound of salt, half a pound of 
 bay-salt, an ounce of sugar, and an ounce of 
 saltpetre. Pound all wdl together until re- 
 duced to a fine powder. Procure the herrings 
 as fresh as possible, cut off the heads and tails, 
 open the fish, and lay them for one hour in brine 
 strong enough to float an egg. Drain, dry 
 them with a soft cloth, and put them in layers 
 into a deep jar, with a little of the powder be- 
 tween each layer, and a little both at the top 
 and bottom of the jar. When the jar is full, 
 press it down and cover it closely. The fish will 
 be ready in three months. Probable cost. Is. 
 per dozen. The above quantity of salt is enough 
 for two dozen herrings. 
 
 HERRINGS, PICKLED (in the French style). 
 
 Scale and clean a dozen perfectly fresh her- 
 rings, without washing them. Cut off their 
 heads, and remove the entrails, leaving the milts 
 and roes in their place. Put the fish into an 
 earthen jar, strew salt over them, and let them 
 lie for twenty-four hours, turning them over at 
 the end of twelve hours. Drain them, and place 
 them in an enamelled saucepan, with a dozen 
 peppercorns, a bay-leaf, six cloves, and a large 
 onion sliced. Pour over them as much cold 
 vinegar and water as will cover them. Place 
 them on a brisk fire, bring them quickly to a 
 boil, and let them boil just two minutes. Take 
 them from the fire, and let them get nearly 
 cold in the saucepan before removing them to 
 the jar in whicli they are to be kept. Lift them 
 out carefully, pour the liquid over them, and 
 keep in a oool^plaoe. They will remain good for 
 some time. Probable cost. Is. per dozen. 
 
 HERRINGS, PICKLED, TO COOK. 
 
 Cut the heads and tails from a couple of 
 pickled herrings. Soak them in lukewarm water 
 for three or foui hours, then di'y, and broil them 
 over a clear fire. Brush a. little salad-oil over 
 them just before sending to table, and serve with 
 sliced onion or chopped parsley and capers. 
 Time, <five minutes to broil. Cost, l^d. each. 
 
 HERRINGS, PIE OF. 
 
 Choose some herrings with soft roes; scale 
 and clean them well, cut off their heads, fins, 
 and tails, split them open, take out the bones, 
 and season the inner surface of the fish with a 
 little salt and pepper. Line the edge of a but- 
 tered pie-dish with a good crust. Spread over 
 the bottom of the dish a layer half an inch thick 
 of equal parts of apples and onions, finely 
 minced. Place the herrings on this, and cover 
 them with another layer. Sprinkle the surface 
 with grated nutmeg and finely-shredded lemon- 
 rind. Place two or three small pieces of butter 
 here and there on the top, pour a little water 
 in, cover the pie with a crust, and bake in a 
 good oven. 
 
 HERRINGS, POTTED. 
 
 Empty the fish, clean without washing them, 
 cut off the heads and tails, remove the back- 
 bone, and strew over them a little salt and 
 powdered mace. Let them remain three or four 
 hours, then wipe off the seasoning and put the 
 fish into a well-buttered pan ; strew pepper, salt, 
 and grated nutmeg over them, place small lumps 
 of butter here and there upon them, and bake m 
 a moderate oven. When they are cooked 
 enough, drain the liquid from them, pour suf- 
 ficient clarified butter over them to cover them 
 completely, and keep in a cool place. Time, 
 two hours to bake. Probable cost of herrings, 
 9d. per dozen. Sufficient, half a dozen for three 
 persons. 
 
 HERRINGS, RED, BROILED. 
 
 Soak a couple of red herrings in a little warm 
 water. This is unnecessary for fresh Yarmouth 
 bloaters. Dry them well with a cloth, make 
 four or five incisions crosswise on the back, 
 dredge a little flour over them, and put them on 
 a gridiron about six inches above a clear fire, 
 or toast them before the fire. This flsh may be 
 opened at the back and rubbed inside with a 
 little cold butter, if this is liked. Time, five 
 minutes. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for two 
 persons. 
 
 HERRINGS, RED, BROILED (another way). 
 
 Cut off the heads and tails ; open the fish, and 
 pour over them a little hot beer. When it 
 is cold, wipe them dry with a soft cloth, and 
 toast them before the fire until they are hot 
 through. Time, half an hour to soak. Prob- 
 able cost, l^d. each. Sufficient, one for each 
 person. 
 
 HERRINGS, RED, BROILED (another way). 
 
 Take off the heads and tails, split the herringij 
 open, and take out the backbones. Beat an 
 egg, stir into it a tea-spoonful of clarified but- 
 ter. Dip the fish into this, and sprinkle over 
 them, rather thickly, finely-grated bread-crumbs, 
 seasoned with a little pepper and powdered 
 herbs. Broil them on a gridiron about > six 
 
H£R 
 
 314 
 
 HER 
 
 inches above a clear fire, and serve them on hot 
 toast. Time, five minutes to broil. Probable 
 cost, Id. each. Sufficient, one for each person. 
 
 HERRINSS, RED, BUFFED (a Scotch dish). 
 
 Soak pickled herrings in water until the salt 
 is almost extracted. Push a stick through the 
 eyes, and hang the fish in the sun or wind to 
 dry. When wanted for use, broil or boil them 
 like fresh herrings. Time, two days to soak. 
 Probable cost. Id. or Hd. each. Sufficient, half 
 a dozen for two or three persons. 
 
 HERRINGS, RED, CHOOSING. 
 
 Choose a fish which is plump, but not too full 
 of roe. Large-roed fish are sure to be oily, and 
 in all probability are not satisfactorily salted. 
 The body should be firm, the flesh red, the roe 
 well set, and the smell sweet. If too salt, the 
 fish should be soaked in warm water a few hours 
 before being cooked. It is well, however, to 
 pull a few of the fins out of the back, and taste 
 them, in order to ascertain whether it is too 
 highly salted or not. 
 
 HERRINGS, RED, CREAMED. 
 
 Take the required quantity of red herrings, 
 split them open, free them from skin and bone, 
 and pound the flesh in a mortar with a little 
 cream, fresh butter, and cayenne pepper Make 
 it hot in a small saucepan. Have ready some 
 oatmeal biscuits, made hot in the oven, and 
 spread the creamed herring upon them. Serve 
 at once. 
 
 HERRINGS, RED, MOCK ANCHOVY TOAST OF. 
 
 Cut the head and tail from a red herring, 
 and let it soak in boiling water for five or ten 
 minutes. Drain it, peel off the skin, open it, 
 and take out as many of the bones as possible. 
 Cut one half of the fish into slices about a 
 quarter of an inch in thickness, and the other 
 half into small squares. Divide a round of hot 
 liuttered toast into quarters, and place a square 
 of herringrflesh on each quarter, and round it 
 one of the narrow slices. This will give mock 
 anchovy toast. Place the pieces of herring be- 
 tween bread and butter, instead of upon toast, 
 and you will have mock anchovy sandwiches. It 
 will take about ten minutes to soak the herring. 
 Probable cost, IJd. each. Sufficient for one 
 person. 
 
 HERRINGS, RED, SAVOURY OF. 
 
 Soak the herrings in cold water for four hours, 
 then wipe them, take off the skin, bone them, 
 and pound the flesh in a mortar I'ntil smooth, 
 along with a little cayenne, an ounce' of butter 
 and a dash of cream. Spread the mixture on 
 sippets of hot toast, and sprinkle a little grated 
 lard-boiled yolk of egg over. 
 HERRINGS, SALTED AT HOME. 
 
 Procure the herrings as fresh as possible. 
 Scale, gut, and clean, but do not wash them. 
 Leave the roes in the fish. Make a brine strong 
 enough to float an egg. Put the herrings in 
 this, and let them lie fourteen or sixteen hours. 
 Drain them well, and put them into jars, with 
 a thick layer of salt under them, and salt be- 
 tv/een each row of herrings. Cover tightly, to 
 keep them free from air. When wanted 'for 
 use, soak the fish in a little milk, and boil or 
 broil them in the usual way. 
 
 HERRINGS, SALTED, WITH POTATOES. 
 
 Take two or three salted herrings, which have 
 been washed and dried, and put them into a 
 quart stone jar, nearly filled with sliced raw 
 potatoes. Pour a little water over, and bake 
 in a moderate oven until the potatoes are done. 
 Time, about half an hour. Probable cost, 6d. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 HERRINGS, SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Herrings are generally served without sauce. 
 When fresh ones are cooked a little may be re- 
 quired, and then either parsley and butter, 
 anchovy, or caper sauce may be sent to table 
 with the fish; or the following sauce. Stir a 
 table-spoonful of mixed mustard into a pint of 
 melted butter. A table-spoonful of finely- 
 chopped mixed pickles may be substituted for 
 the mustard. Boil for five minutes, add a tea- 
 spoonful of vinegar, and serve. Probable cost, 
 3d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. 
 
 HERRINGS, SAUCE OF, FOR FISH (a German 
 recipe). 
 Put an ounce of butter into a stewpan with 
 two finely-minced shallots. Let them remain 
 over a gentle fire until tender, then thicken 
 with a taole-spoonful of flour, and, when smooth, 
 add half a pint of fish stock or water, a tea- 
 spoonful of vinegar, half a salt-spoonful of 
 pepper, and two bay-leaves. Simmer gently for 
 ten minutes. Strain the sauce, and mix with it 
 the flesh of a salted and soaked herring, finely 
 minced,- and . an ounce of butter. Soil once 
 more. Just before serving, and when the sauce 
 is slightly cooled, mix in the well-beaten yolks 
 of two eggs. Time, half an hour. Probable 
 cost, 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 HERRINGS, SMOKED. 
 
 Clean and open the herrings, and lay them 
 in salt and saltpetre for twenty-four hours. 
 Drain and wipe them dry, and hang them in a 
 row by means of a stick pushed through their 
 eyes. Pill an old cask, open at both ends, with 
 sawdust, put a red-hot iron in the middle of it, 
 and place the herrings over the cask, which 
 must be covered to keep in the smoke. Keep 
 the heat as equal as possible. In about twenty- 
 four hours the herrings will be ready. Probable 
 cost of herrings. Is. per dozen. 
 
 HERRINGS, SMOKED, TO PREPARE. 
 
 Cut ofP the head and tail from a smoked her- 
 ring, and remove the bones. Cut the fish into 
 slices about half an inch in thickness, and let 
 them soak in salad-oil for five or six hours. 
 Drain them, put them into a dish, pour fresh 
 oil over them, and serve. Probable cost, l^d. 
 each. Sufficient, one or two for each person. 
 
 HERRINGS, ROES OF, ON TOAST. 
 
 Take the soft roes of six herrings, wash them 
 well in cold salt water, and put them in a deep 
 fire-proof dish. Put half a pint of boiling 
 water and a wine-glassful of French vinegar into 
 a small saucepan ; add a pinch of salt, six pep- 
 percorns, and three bay-leaves. Set this on the 
 fire, and, as soon as it boils, skim it, and strain 
 it over the roes. Cover the dish with a buttered 
 paper, and put it in a moderately hot oven for 
 ten minutes. Make six pieces of toast, and while 
 hot butter them on both sides. Drain the roes. 
 
HES 
 
 315 
 
 HOG 
 
 lay one on each piece of toast, put little pieces 
 of butter over them, and return to the oven foi 
 five minutes. Take them out, squeeze a few 
 drops of lemon-juice over each, sprinkle them 
 with a little chopped parsley and cayenne, and 
 serve hot. 
 
 HESSIAN SOUP. 
 
 Take half an ox's head, clean and rub it well 
 with salt, and let it soak in lukewarm water 
 for four or five hours. Put it into a large stew- 
 pan with six quarts of water, and let it simmer 
 until tender, then take it out ; when the broth 
 13 cool, remove the fat, return the broth to the 
 saucepan, and put with it a pint of soaked split 
 peas, six carrots, six onions, three turnips, a 
 . tea-spoonful of bruised celery-seed, tied in 
 muslin, a bunch of savoury herbs, and a blade 
 of mace. Simmer again without the ox's head 
 until the vegetables are tender. Press them 
 through a colander and afterwards through a 
 sieve. Put the pulp into the soup, add salt and 
 Jamaica pepper to taste, and a lump of sugar. 
 Let it boil up once more and serve. It should 
 be as thick as ordinary pea-soup. Time, four 
 hours. Probable cost, lOd. per quart. Suf- 
 ficient for twelve or fourteen persons. 
 
 HIDE-AND-SEEK PUDDING (to be eaten co'd). 
 
 Make a rich batter with two table-spoonfuls 
 of cream, mixed with three well-beaten eggs, 
 and a table-spoonful of sugar. Melt a little 
 butter in a small omelet-pan, pour in the mix- 
 ture, and fry it like an ordinary pancake, but 
 it must be four times the thickness. Turn it on 
 a dish, and, when cold, cover it with rich jam, 
 and garnish with candied fruit cut into slices, 
 and a few dark green leaves. Time, a few 
 minutes to fry the omelet. Sufficient for one 
 person. Probable cost, 7d. 
 
 HIP JAM. 
 
 Scarlet hips make a delicious jam. This fruit 
 of the wild rose must be gathered before it has 
 grown soft and flabby. The largest and finest 
 hips should be chosen. Lay on a clean, coarse 
 clothj rub carefully, cut off the stalks and 
 crowns, and carefully extract the little seeds 
 with a small penknife, as on this the success of 
 the jam depends. Throw the hips into boiling 
 water, parboil, and then strain off the water. 
 Kub the fruit through a sieve, and boil in clari- 
 fied sugar (see Sttgab, To Ci/Aeift), allowing a 
 pint of the syrup to a quart of fruit, stirring all 
 the time with a wooden spoon till the jam is of 
 sufficient thickness. When cold, add to each 
 pound of fruit two dessert-spoonfuls of white- 
 wine vinegar and six cloves. Put into jam- 
 pots, and cover with oiled paper. 
 
 HIP SAUCE, FOR PUDDINGS, ETC. 
 
 Take the seeds from half a pint of ripe hips. 
 Boil them in a little water, until they are suf- 
 ficiently tender to press through a coarse sieve. 
 Mix a wine-glassful of light wine and a table- 
 spoonful of moist sugar with the pulp, boil up 
 once more, and serve. Time, half an hour. 
 Probable cost, uncertain, for hips are seldom to 
 be bought. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 HOCK CUP. 
 
 Put a quarter of a pound of crushed ice into 
 a punch bowl, with a few cut slices of lemon. 
 
 the juice of two lemons, a liqueur glass of 
 Chartreuse, the same of Cura5oa, and two table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar. Mix thoroughly, and then 
 add a quart bottle of hock and two bottles of 
 soda water. Stir it, let it stand for a minute or 
 two, and then serve. 
 
 HOG, OR BLACK PUDDINGS. 
 
 Throw a little salt into the blood as soon as it 
 is drawn, stir it well, and, when cold, strain. 
 Mix with it a third of its measure in milk, or 
 good stock, and stir into it two-thirds of finely- 
 shredded beef suet to one-third of dried oat- 
 meal, until it is a stiff batter. Add pepper, 
 salt, and finely-chopped onions, and, if liked, 
 a little parsley, marjoram, or winter savoury. 
 Cleanse the skins thoroughly. Cut them into 
 equal lengths, and fill them with the mixture. 
 Sew them securely. Put them into boiling 
 water, and boil them gently, pricking them as 
 they swell with a large darning-needle, to let 
 out the air. Hang them in a dry place until 
 wanted. Time, one hour to boil. 
 
 HOG'S CHEEKS, TO CURE. 
 
 Take out the snout, split open the head, and 
 remove the brains. Cleanse and trim the head, 
 and strew salt over it. Let it lie for two days, 
 then put it into a brine made by boiling one 
 pint of bay-salt and one quart of common salt, 
 half an ounce of saltpetre, and half a pound of 
 sugar, in three qjiarts of water, until dissolved. 
 Cover the cheeks with the brine, and let them 
 lie in the pickle for a fortnight, turning them 
 every other day. Drain, and let them hang in 
 smoke for a week. Sufficient for one head. 
 Probable cost, 3s. 
 
 HOG'S EARS, STUFFED AND FRIED, 
 
 Parboil two pairs of hogs' ears. Raise the 
 skin of the upper side, and fill them with a 
 forcemeat made by mincing and mixing thor- 
 oughly a quarter of a pound of suet, six ounces 
 of bread-crumbs, a pounded anchovy, two tea- 
 spoonfuls of chopped parsley, one table-spoon- 
 ful of sage, and a little pepper and salt. Bind 
 these ingredients together with the yolks of two 
 eggs. When stuffed, skewer the ears to prevent 
 the forcemeat escaping, and fry them in a little 
 hot butter until brightly browned, then drain 
 . them and put them into a stewpan, with half a 
 pint of good gravy, one table-spoonful of mixed 
 mustard, one ounce of butter rolled in flour, 
 one onion, and a little pepper and salt. Cover 
 the stewpan closely, and simmer gently for half 
 an hour, shaking the pan frequently, to keep 
 the contents from sticking. A few minutes be- 
 fore the meat is done enough, add a glass of 
 sherry. Put the ears in a hot dish, strain the 
 gravy over them, and serve very hot. Probable 
 cost, 8d. Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 HOG'S LARD, TO MAKE. 
 
 Strip the skin from the leaf, or inner fat of 
 the hog, cut it into small pieces, put it into an 
 earthen jar, which must be covered and placed 
 in a saucepan of boiling water, and let it re- 
 main until melted. Pour it off, and keep it 
 either in small jars, closely covered, or small 
 bladders— the smaller the .better, unless it is 
 intended to use the lard quickly. After it is ex- 
 posed to the air it is liable to spoil. Probable 
 cost, 8d. to lOd. per pound. 
 
HOL. 
 
 316 
 
 HON 
 
 HOLLANDAISE SAUCE. 
 
 Take the yolks of six eggs and beat them up 
 with a very little flour and a bit of butter about 
 the size of a hazel-nut. Add a little pepper and 
 salt, a blade of mace, two table-spoonfuls of 
 vinegar and four of water. Put the mixture in a 
 saucepan on the fire, and stir until it just begins 
 to boil ; then take it off, and put in a good lump 
 of butter ; stir it well together, always going 
 round the same way, until the butter is thor- 
 oughly incorporated. The sauce is then ready 
 to serve. Do not return it to the fire after put- 
 ting in the final piece of butter. 
 
 HOLLY-LEAVES, TO FROST, FOR GARNISHING 
 
 Take some holly-leaves, cleanse them thor- 
 oughly, lay them on a large dish some little 
 distance from the fire, and let them remain there 
 until perfectly dry. Dip them into butter, 
 melted until it will run, strew white powdered 
 sugar over them, and dry them before the fire. 
 Keep in a dry place until wanted for use. Time, 
 ten minutes to dry. 
 
 HOLSTEIN CREAM. 
 
 Take the thin rind of a lemon, and let it soak 
 by the side of the fire in a pint of cream for half 
 an hour, and afterwards bring it slowly to a 
 boil. Mix a tea-spoonful of ground rice very 
 smoothly with the strained juice of the lemon 
 and a little cold milk. Stir it into the boiling 
 liquid, add two table-spoonfflls of sugar, and 
 boil five minutes longer, stirring all the time. 
 Slice a, small spongecake, and lay it in a glass 
 dish, pour the cream over, and garnish accord- 
 ing to taste. If milk be used instead of cream, 
 double the above quantity of ground rice will 
 be required. Probable cost, 6d., if made with 
 milk. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 HOLSTEIN SAUCE, FOR FISH. 
 
 Mix a quarter of a pint of the water in which 
 the fish was boiled with an equal quantity of 
 light wine. Thicken the liquid with a table- 
 spoonful of flour, mixed smoothly with two 
 ounces of butter, and stir it over the flre until 
 it boils. Add a salt-spoonful of salt, a little 
 pepper, and the eighth of a nutmeg, grated. 
 Beat the yolk of an egg in a basin, and mix with 
 it the juice of a lemon. Draw the sauce back 
 from the fire for a minute, then stir into it the 
 egg and half an ounce of butter, and serve. 
 Time, a quarter of an hour to prepare. Prob- 
 able cost, 3d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 HOMINY. 
 
 Hominy, -which is maize, hulled and coarsely 
 ground in the same way as oatmeal, is a plea- 
 sant and nutritious breakfast dish, and may be 
 thus prepared. Put half a pound of hominy in 
 a basin, pour over it a quart of boiling water 
 cover the basin, and leave it all night until the ' 
 morning. The hominy will then have absorbed 
 all the water. Put it in a saucepan with another 
 quart of water and a pinch of salt, and stir over 
 the fire until nearly boiling. Withdraw the pan 
 to the side, simmer for half an hour, stirring 
 occasionally; add a quarter of a pound of sugar, 
 mix well, turn out on hot plates, and eat with 
 milk or cream. Probable cost of the hominy, 
 IJd. per pound. 
 
 HOMINY CAKES. 
 
 Take two breakfast-cupfuls of boiled hominy, 
 beat it smooth, work in two cupfuls of milk, a 
 teaspoonful of salt, two cupfuls of flour, and, 
 lastly, three eggs well beaten. Mix till all is 
 thoroughly incorporated. Form the mixture 
 into cakes, and fry in the same way as fritters. 
 
 HOMINY, FRIED. 
 
 This is made from the remains of boiled 
 hominy, which is a firm jelly when cold. Cut 
 the cold hominy into slices, flour them, egg 
 and bread-crumb them, and plunge them into 
 boiling oil or fat until they are of a bright 
 golden colour. They may be eaten with lemon 
 juice and sugar, or served with orange marmar 
 lade. 
 
 HONEY CAKE. 
 
 Stir half a pint of sour cream into a pint of 
 flour. Add about half a tea-spoonful of ground 
 ginger, a quarter of a tea^spoonful of powdered 
 cinnamon, two table-spoonfuls of sugar and 
 honey, according to taste. Mix thoroughly, and 
 when the cake is ready for the oven, add half a 
 tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda, dissolved in 
 a small quantity of hot water. Beat again for 
 a few minutes, pour the mixture into a buttered 
 mould, and bake in a good oven. This cake may 
 be eaten either warm or cold. Time, three- 
 quarters of an hour to bake. Probable cost. Is. 
 Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 HONEY CAKES (a German recipe). 
 
 Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan, and 
 when melted, stir in half a pound of honey. Let 
 it boil, . stirring briskly all the time. Take it 
 from the fire, and, when slightly cool, mix with 
 it the finely-minced rind of half a lemon, two 
 ounces of sweet almonds, blanched and coarsely 
 pounded, the eighth of a nutmeg, grated, and 
 half a pound of flour, and, last of all, half an 
 ounce of carbonate of soda dissolved in a small 
 quantity of warm water. Leave the mixture in 
 a cool place twelve or fourteen hours. Roll it 
 out half an inch thick, cut it into small square 
 cakes, put a thin slice of candied peel in the 
 middle of each cake, and a slice of blanched 
 almond in each of the four corners. Bake in a 
 moderate oven for twenty-flve minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, ]s. 6d. Sufficient for a dozen cakes. 
 
 HONEYCOMB CREAM. 
 
 Strain and sweeten liberally the juice of two 
 large lemons and a Seville orange. Put it into 
 a glass dish. Boil a pint and a half of thick 
 cream. Pour it into a heated teapot. Put the 
 glass dish containing the juice on the ground, 
 and pour the cream on it very slowly, and from 
 a good height, so as to froth it well. Let it 
 stand until cold. It should be well stirred at 
 table before serving. This is the old-fashioned 
 way of preparing honeycomb cream, but a better 
 plan is to whisk the white of an egg and a little 
 sugar with the cream, then, as the froth rises, 
 to take it off and lay it upon the lemon-juice 
 until all the cream is used. Honeycomb cream 
 should be made the day before it is wanted, and 
 put at once into the dish in which it is to 
 remain. Time, an hour or more to prepare. 
 Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for six or seven 
 persons. 
 
HON 
 
 317 
 
 HOR 
 
 HONEYCOMB GINGERBREAD. 
 
 I (See GlNGEBBBEAD, HoNEYCOMB.) 
 I^ONEYCOMB, LEMON. 
 
 (jSee Lemon Honeycomb.) 
 
 HONEYCOMB, TO KEEP. 
 
 Put the honeycomb as whole aa possible into 
 a large jar. Set it aslant, so that the thin part 
 may drop off. Cover it closely, to exclude the 
 air, and store it in a cool, dry place. It may 
 thus be kept good for some months. 
 
 HONEY NOYAU, FOR FLAVOURING. 
 
 Blanch and pound an ounce of sweet almonds 
 and two ounces of bitter almonds ; mix with 
 them a pound of sifted sugar, and pour over 
 them two pints of gin mixed with half a pint of 
 milk, which has been boiled with a large table- 
 spoonful of honey, and allowed to cool. Add 
 the thin rind and strained juice of a large lemon, 
 and pour all into a good-sized bottle. Shake 
 the mixture frequently. In twelve days it will 
 be ready for use. Filter through blotting- 
 paper, and keep in bottles securely corked. 
 Probable cost. Is., exclusive of the gin. Suf- 
 ficient for a little more than three pints of 
 flavouring. 
 
 HONEY, ORANGE MARMALADE WITH. 
 
 (See Orange' Maemat.abe with Honey.) 
 
 HONEY, VINEGAR MADE FROM. 
 
 A strong and excellent vinegar may be made 
 from honey. Dissolve two pounds of pure honey 
 in, half a gallon of water. Put it into a small 
 cask and leave the hole uncorked, merely cover- 
 ing it with a piece of muslin to preserve the 
 liquid from dust, etc. Expose it to the heat of 
 the sun — the hotter the better — and in about 
 six weeks it will be ready for use. Probable 
 cost, 2s. Sufficient for nearly three quarts of 
 vinegar. 
 
 HOP SALAD. 
 
 Take some young hops before they are leafy. 
 Boil them in a little salt and water, and when 
 they are partially cooked, but not quite tender, 
 drain and dry them thoroughly, and pour over 
 them a salad-dressing made with lemon-juice 
 instead of vinegar. 
 
 HOPS AND SHERRY CORDIAL. 
 
 Fill a wide-mouthed bottle with hops. They 
 may be shaken together, but must not be pressed 
 down. Cover them with sherry, and let them 
 infuse for a month. Strain the liquid, and mix 
 with it a syrup made by boiling half a pint of 
 water with six ounces of sugar. Strain, and 
 keep the cordial in closely-corked bottles for 
 use. A wine-glassful taken in half a tumblerful 
 of water will be found both agreeable and 
 strengthening. Sufficient for a little more than 
 a pint of the cordial. 
 
 HOP TEA. 
 
 Put the hops into a covered jug with boiling 
 water, in the proportion of an ounce of hops to 
 a pint of water. When cold, pour off the liquid 
 and bottle for use. A quarter of a pint taken 
 fasting is often found beneficial in attacks of 
 indigestion. If double the quantity of hops is 
 used, it will be an excellent tonic. Sufficient for 
 a pint of the tea. 
 
 HORS D'CEUVRES. 
 
 This is the term applied to appetising little 
 dishes which are served at the beginning of a 
 dinner aa a whet to the palate. Oysters, when 
 in season, form the best possible appetiser ; and 
 perhaps the next best is fresh caviare, iced, with 
 a squeeze of lemon. Anchovies in many forms 
 are justly esteemed for this purpose, also smoked 
 salmon, smoked cod roe, olives, pickled herrings, 
 sardines, celery, beetroot, and tomatoes. (See 
 Hoes d'CEuvres, Condiments, and Savotjeibs 
 in classified index.) 
 
 HORSE-RADISH FOR GARNISH. 
 
 Wash and scrub the horae-radish thoroughly. 
 Let it lie for an hour in cold water ; then scrape 
 it very finely with a sharp knife. Arrange it in 
 little bunches round the dish, or, if there is 
 gravy with the meat, put it in a small glasa dish 
 near the carver. Probable cost, 2d. per root. 
 
 HORSE-RADISH, PICKLING. 
 
 Scrape the outer skin off the horse-radish, and 
 cut it into inch lengths. Put these into earthen 
 jars, cover with cold vinegar, and cork securely. 
 Wax the corks, and keep the pickle in a cool dry 
 place. Time, a few minutes to prepare. Prob- 
 able cost of horse-radish, 2d. per root. 
 
 HORSE-RADISH POWDER. 
 
 Slice some horse-radish. Dry it in a Dutch 
 oven very gradually, or the flavour will be lost. 
 When thoroughly dry, pound it to powder, and 
 keep it in bottles securely corked. The best 
 time for preparing the powder is in November 
 and December. — 
 
 HORSE-RADISH SAUCE (for cold Roast Beef). 
 
 Wash and brush the horse-radish. Soak it for 
 an hour in cold water, and scrape it very finely 
 with a sharp knife. Mix two table-spoonfuls of 
 it with hall a tea-spoonful of salt and a tea- 
 spoonful of powdered mustard. Add gradually 
 a quarter of a pint of cream, or, instead, the 
 yolk of an egg mixed with three table-spoonfuls 
 of olive oil, and afterwards two table-spoonfuls 
 of vinegar; stir in briskly but gradually. Mix 
 well, and serve in a boat. Time, half an hour to 
 prepare. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. 
 
 HORSE-RADISH SAUCE, BROWN (for Boiled Meat 
 orFish^. 
 Grate two table-spoonfuls of horse-radish, put 
 it into a stewpan with half a pint of good brown 
 gravy, and let it stand by the side of the fire 
 until quite hot. Add a tea-spoonful of mixed 
 mustard, a clove of garlic pounded with a little 
 butter, and a dessert-spoonful of vinegar. If 
 it is wished to have the sauce very mild, use 
 equal parts of bread-crumbs and the scraped 
 root. Serve in a tureen. Time, twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 HORSE-RADISH SAUCE, HOT (for Boiled Fowls, etc.) 
 Prepare the horse-radish as before. Grate an 
 ounce very finely, add a pinch of salt, and pour 
 over it half a pint of good cream. Mix thor- 
 oughly, put into a jar, and place it in a sauce- 
 pan of boiling water. When quite hot, serve in 
 a boat. Time, half an hour to prepare. Prob- 
 able cost, lOd. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
HOR 
 
 318 
 
 HOT 
 
 HORSE-RADISH SAUCE, WITH EGGS. 
 
 Boil two eggs hard. When cold, pound the 
 yolks with the back of a wooden spobn, and add 
 very gradually three qr four table-spoonfuls of 
 vinegar, sufficient to make a smooth cream. Add 
 three dessert-spoonfuls of grated horse-radish 
 and half a tea-spoonful of salt. Serve in a tureen. 
 Time, ten minutes to boil the eggs. Probable 
 cost, 3d. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 HORSE-RADISH VINEGAR. , 
 
 Take four ounces of grated horse-radish. Put 
 it into a jar, with a salt-spoonful of cayeniie, an 
 ounce of finely-minced shallots, and a tea^spoon- 
 ful of salt. Pour over them a quart of boiling 
 vinegar, cover closely, and keep in a warm place 
 for a fortnight. Draw off the vinegar, let it 
 boil once more, strain it through a.; tamis, and 
 keep it bottled closely until required. This 
 vinegar will be _f ound useful as a relish for cold 
 meat, and for flavouring salads, etc. Probable 
 cost, about 8d. Sufficient for a quart of vinegar. 
 
 HOTCH-POTCH. 
 
 Take two pounds of the narrow half of the 
 round of beef. Cut it into' pieces about two 
 inches square, and put them into a stewpan, 
 with a few scraps of fat beef or veal, five pints 
 of water, and half a _pint of beer. Let these 
 boil up, then add two large carrots sliced, two 
 onions, two sticks of celery, two turnips, and 
 some pieces of caulifiower. Cover the saucepan 
 closely, and simmer gently for three hours. 
 Melt two ounces of butter in a saucepan. Mix 
 a table-spoonful of flour smoothly with it. Let 
 it brown, dilute it with- a little of the broth, 
 season with ketchup, and add it to the rest of 
 the stew.. Let the broth boil up once more, and 
 add pepper and salt to taste. Serve in a large 
 dish. Put the meat in the middle, the vege- 
 tables round, the gravy over all, and send to 
 table as hot as possible. Hotch-potch may be 
 made with beef, mutton, lamb, fowl, or pickled 
 pork, and with vegetables varying according to 
 the season. A mixture of two kinds of meat is 
 very good, and some cooks mince the meat in- 
 stead of serving it in cutlets. Probable cost, 
 2s. for this quantity. Sufficient for six or seven 
 persons. 
 
 HOTCH-POTCH, MUTTON. 
 
 (See. Mutton Hotch-potch.) 
 HOTCH-POTCH, OX-TAIL. 
 
 Divide an ox-tail at the joints, rub it with 
 salt, and soak it in lukewarm water for an hour 
 or two. Put it into a stewpan with a scraped 
 carrot, a small bunch of savoury herbs, a bay- 
 leaf, two onions, one of them stuck with two 
 cloves, a clove of garlic, six peppercorns, half 
 a tea^spoonful of salt, and sufficient water to 
 cover them. Simmer gently until the meat is 
 tender and leaves the bones easily. Thicken 
 with flour and butter, and serve with sippets 
 round the dish. In the season, a pint of green 
 peas, stewed in the gravy a few minutes before 
 serving, is an improvement. Time, two hours. 
 Probable cost, ox-tail, from Is. to 2s. Sufficient 
 for three or four persons. 
 
 HOTCH-POTCH, SCOTCH. 
 
 Take three quarts of good mutton broth. 
 Put it into a deep stewpan, and let it boil ; then 
 
 put with it a quart of young vegetables sliced, 
 including equal quantities of carrots, turnips, 
 onions, finely-shredded lettuce, sprigs of cauli- 
 flower, and a little chopped parsley. Add a pint 
 of freshly-shelled green peas, and three pounds of 
 mutton chops, cut either from the loin or the 
 best end of the neck, and freed from all super- 
 fluous fat. If preferred. Iamb may be sub- 
 stituted for mutton; in either case the meat 
 must be fresh and sweet, and the vegetables 
 young. Boil until the meat and vegetables are 
 tender, then add another pint of peas and a 
 little pepper and salt, and, when these are 
 tender, serve in a deep dish. Time, about two 
 hours. Probable cost, 48. Sufficient for ten or 
 twelve persons. ' 
 
 HOTCH-pOTCH, WINTER. 
 
 Put a pound of dried green peas into water to 
 soak the night before it- is intended to make 
 the, hotch-potch. Take two pounds of the best 
 end of the neck of mutton and two pounds of 
 the shin or breast of beef. Cut the mutton into 
 neat cutlets, free from all superfluous fat, and 
 the beef into small square pieces. Set them 
 aside until wanted. Put four quarts of water 
 into a stewpan with two sliced carrots, two 
 sliced turnips, four onions, a, tea-spoonful of 
 bruised celery-seed tied in muslin, the Boaked 
 peas, and a whole turnip and carrot. Boil for 
 two hours. Take out the whole carrot and 
 turnip, mash them to a pulp, and return them 
 to the stew with the meat and a little pepper 
 and salt. Simmer gently an liour longer, and 
 serve as hot as possible. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. 
 Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. 
 
 HOTCH-POTCH, WINTER (another way). 
 {See Geemak Beoth or Winteb Hotch-potch.) 
 
 HOT CROSS BUNS. 
 
 Mix two pounds of flour with a small tea- 
 spoonful of powdered spice and half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt. Hub in half a pound of good 
 butter. M^ke a hoWoyi in the flour, and pour 
 in a wine-glassful of yeast and half a pint of 
 warmed milk slightly coloured with saffron. 
 Mix the surrounding flour with the milk and 
 yeast to a thin batter; throw a little dry flour 
 over, and set the pan before the fire for it to rise. 
 When risen, work in a little sugar, one egg, half 
 a pound of currants, and milk to make a soft 
 dough. Cover over as before, and let.it stand 
 half an hour. Then make the dough into buns, 
 and mark them with the back of a knife. TSme, 
 fifteen to twenty minutes to bake. Probable 
 cost. Id. each. Sufficient for twenty-four buns. 
 
 HOT PICKLE. 
 
 Mince an ounce of shallots very finely, and 
 put them into a stewpan with an ounce of whole 
 ginger, two ounces of salt, a quarter of an ounce 
 of mustard-seed, half an ounce of pepper, one- 
 eighth of an ounce of cayenne, and half an ounce 
 of allspice. Pour over them a quart of vinegar, 
 and let the mixture boil. Put it into a jar and 
 let it get cold, then add any fresh vegetables 
 that are obtainable, such as cauliflowers, French 
 beans, radish-pods, asparagus, or even green 
 gooseberries and unripe apples. More pickle 
 may be added when required, and vegtetables as 
 they come into season. Probable cost of pickle. 
 
MOT 
 
 319 
 
 HUN 
 
 Is. 6d. Sufficient for as many vegetables as it 
 will entirely cover. 
 
 HOT POT. 
 
 Take two pounds of cKops from the best end 
 of the neck, and one sheep's kidney. Trim the 
 chops neatly, cut ofE all superfluous fat, and lay 
 half of them in a deep disk well buttered, and 
 with them the kidney cut i'nslices. Sprinkle over 
 them a little pepper and' salt and a tea-spoonful 
 of finely-minced onions; and- place upon them a 
 quarter of a pound of potatoes cut in slices. Put 
 two or three small lumps of dripping here and 
 there, and repeat until the meat is used and the 
 dish nearly full; Cover the top with whole 
 potatoes, pour half a pint of water or stock over, 
 and bake in a moderate oven. A few oysters 
 are by many considered an improvement. Lay 
 them upon the meat, pour a little of the liquor 
 over them, and proceed as- above. Time, three 
 hours or more to bake. Sufficient for six or 
 seven persons. Probable cost, 2s. lOd. 
 
 HOT POT, LANCASHIRE. . 
 
 {See Lancashibe Hot-pot.) 
 
 HOT POT PIE. 
 
 Take the remains of cold beef or mutton, and 
 slice it thinly. Slice up also a proportionate 
 quantity of onions and potatoes. Put in a pie- 
 dish a layer of meat, one of potatoes, and one 
 of onions, seasoning them with pepper, salt, and 
 chopped parsley. Continue thus until the pie- 
 dish is full. Put in about half a pint of water 
 or stock and a little butter, cover with another 
 dish, and put into a slow oven for an hour and 
 a half to two hours. 
 
 HOT SAUCE, FOR BROILS, ETC. 
 
 Melt two ounces of butter in a stewpan, stir 
 in with it a table-spoonful of flour, and mix 
 smoothly with the back of a wooden spoon until 
 it is lightly browned. Add gradually to it a, 
 quarter of a pint of good stock, stirring all the 
 time ; add also a tea-spoonful of chopped capers, 
 a tea-spoonful of chopped shallots, a tea-spoonful 
 of mustard, half a tea-spoonful of essence of 
 anchovy, a table-spoonful of walnut ketchup, a 
 table-spoonful of port, or claret, and a quarter 
 of a tea-spoonful of cayenne. Boil gently for 
 si^ or seven minutes, and serve as hot as pos- 
 sible. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. 
 
 HOT SPICE, FOR FLAVOURING SAUCE, 
 GRAVIES, ETC. 
 
 Take half an ounce each, of . cinnamon, black 
 pepper, and ginger. Pound them thoroughly in 
 a mortar, and with them three-quarters of an 
 ounce of cayenne, one ounce of mace, two ounces 
 of finely-grated nutmeg, three ounces of white 
 pepper, and a dozen cloves. When thoroughly 
 pounded and mixed put these ingredients into 
 a bottle, and keep the spice closely stoppered 
 until required. Time, half an hour to prepare. 
 Probable cost. Is. 8d. When it is to be used, 
 try a little pinch of the powder at first, and add 
 more if required. 
 
 HOUSEHOLD GRAVY, SUPERIOR. 
 
 T^e one pound of lean veal from the fillet. 
 Pujjiit -into a stewpan, and with it any trim- 
 mings, and bones of beef, veal, or mutton; but 
 
 they must be perfectly sweet, or they will spoil 
 the gravy. Add,. half, a pint of water, and 
 simmer gently until a light glaze is formed at 
 the bottom of the stewpan ; then add a pint and 
 a half of water, a small .onion, with one clove 
 stuck in it, three sprigs of parsley and one of 
 thyme, a small carrot, a bay-leaf, half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and a quarter of a tea-spoon- 
 ful of pepper. Boil; then, draw the saucepan to 
 the side of the flre, and let its contents simmer 
 gently for one hour. It must be only partially 
 covered, or the gravy will not be clear. Take 
 the fat off carefully, strain the broth, and put 
 it aside for use. It will keep, for three or four 
 days if boiled occasionally and kept without 
 cover in a cool place. A few spoonfuls will 
 improve sauces and gravies. The veal will be 
 found excellent if cut into convenient-sized 
 pieces and served with a few stewed mushrooms 
 and a little of the gravy. Sufficient for a pint 
 and half. Probable cost,. Is. 2d. 
 
 HOUSEWIFE'S CREAM. 
 
 Rub the yellow part of a fresh lemon upon 
 three ounces of loaf sugar; reduce the sugar 
 to powder, and stir it until dissolved into half a 
 pint of thick cream. Add the strained lemon- 
 juice and a quarter of a pint of sherry, and whisk 
 all well together until thick. Serve in custard- 
 glasses, which should be kept in a cool place 
 until wanted. This cream is better if made a, 
 few hours before it is used. Just before serving, 
 dust a little powdered cinnamon or pink sugar 
 over the top. Time, one hour to prepare. Prob- 
 able cost, exclusive of the sherry, lOd. Suf- 
 ficient for four glasses. 
 
 HUNGARIAN TONGUE (a German recipe) 
 
 Take a fresh bullock's tongue. ■ Put it into 
 a stewpan with a carrot, an onion, a clove of 
 garlic, a bay-leaf, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a 
 dozen peppercorns, half a fresh lemon slicedy 
 and as much water as will cover it. Let it boil ; 
 then draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, 
 and simmer gently until the tongue is quite 
 tender. Take off the skin, and trim the tongue 
 neatly ; strain and reduce the gravy^ Mix a 
 table-spoonful of flour very smoothly with two 
 ounces of butter. Keep stirring over the fire 
 until it is lightly browned, and steam a bruised 
 clove of garlic in the browning. Add gradually 
 three-quarters of a pint of gravy, and when 
 quite smooth and thick stir in the juice of half 
 a lemon. Pour a little of the sauce into the 
 dish with the tongue, and send the rest to 
 table in a tureen. Garnish the dish with parsley 
 and sliced lemon. Time, two hours to simmer 
 the tongue. Probable cost of tongufe, from 
 3s. 6d. to 4s. 6d. Sufficient for eight or nine 
 persons. 
 
 HUNG BEEF. 
 
 (iSee Beep, Dutch, or Hung, and Beep, 
 Hung.) 
 
 HUNTER'S, OR SPICED BEEF. 
 
 Take a round of beef weighing from fifteen to 
 twenty pounds. Let it hang a day or two ; then 
 rub it well with a powder made by pounding 
 together one pound of salt, an ounce and a 
 half of saltpetre, half an ounce of allspice, half 
 an ounce of black pepper, two ounces of moist 
 
HUN 
 
 320 
 
 HUS 
 
 sugar, and a tea-spoonful of herb-powder, if 
 this be in the house; if not, it may be omitted. 
 Take out the bone, and turn and rub the meat 
 every day for a, fortnight. At the end of that 
 time wash it well with a soft sponge, put it 
 into a stewpan, just cover it with water, bring 
 it to a boil, and let it simmer gently for five 
 hours. It may remain in the water in which it 
 was cooked until it is nearly cold, if it is in- 
 tended to be used at once ; but though this will 
 improve the taste, it will prevent its keeping so 
 long. The beef is better if kept uncut until 
 cold. It will keep a fortnight or more in 
 moderate weather. It is an excellent plan, 
 instead of boiling the beef, to bake it. Put it 
 into a pan with a sliced onion, a quart of water, 
 and nearly three pounds of beef or mutton-suet 
 cut small and placed on the top of the beef. 
 Cover with a coarse flour and water paste, and 
 bake in a moderate oven. When cold, take off 
 the crust; pour off the gravy, which will be 
 found excellent for soups and sauces. Put the 
 suet into an earthen jar, and melt it slowly in a 
 moderate oven. Pour it off frequently as it 
 melts. It may be used for frying, etc. Time, six 
 hours to bake. Probable cost, lid. per pound. 
 
 HUNTER'S BEEF (another way). 
 
 Take as lean a piece as can be procured of 
 the flank of beef. The thin end is the best. 
 Take out the bones, and rub the meat well every 
 day for a fortnight with a mixture made of one 
 pound of salt, one ounce of saltpetre, a quarter 
 of a pound of moist sugar, one ounce of pounded 
 allspice, one ounce of pounded cloves, and one 
 grated nutmeg. At the end of the time roll it 
 as closely and firmly as possible, and bind it 
 securely with skewers and tape. Just cover it 
 with water, and boil or bake it for five or six 
 hours. Do not loosen the tapes, etc., until the 
 meat is quite cold. Probable cost, 7Jd. per 
 pound. 
 
 HUNTER'S GINGERBREAD. 
 
 (^ee GiNGEBBEEAD, Huntbe's.) 
 HUNTER'S PARTRIDGE PIE. 
 
 (3ee Pabtbidge Pie, Httntee's.) 
 
 HUNTER'S PIE. 
 
 Take two pounds of the best end of a neck of 
 mutton, cut it into chops, trim these neatly, re- 
 move all superfluous fat, add pepper and salt, 
 put them into a stewpan with a small quantity 
 of water, and let them stew gently for half an 
 hour. Boil and mash three or four pounds of 
 good potatoes. Line a buttered pie-dish with 
 them, put in the meat and gravy, and shape a 
 crust over the top of the remainder of the pota- 
 toes. Bake in a good oven for half an hour. 
 If the pie is not nicely browned, hold a red-hot 
 fire-shovel over it for a minute or two. Just 
 before serving make an incision in the middle 
 of the crust, and pour in a little boiling gravy. 
 Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 HUNTER'S PUDDING. 
 
 A hunter's pudding and a plum pudding are 
 very similar. Mix half a pound of finely- 
 shredded beef-suet with a quarter of a pound of 
 bread-crumbs and a quarter of a pound of flour, 
 add half a pound of stoned and chopped raisins. 
 
 half a pound of picked currants, half a pound of 
 sugar, the grated rind and strained juice of 
 half a lemon, a pinch of salt, half a nutmeg, 
 grated, and an ounce of candied lemon. When 
 the dry ingredients are thoroughly mixed, stir 
 in four well-beaten eggs, and. either milk, beer, 
 port wine, or brandy sufficient to make a stiff 
 batter. Put the mixture into a buttered mould, 
 and boil for six or seven hours. This pudding 
 will keep for several months, and when used 
 may be either cut into slices and fried, or 
 plunged again into boiling water and boiled for 
 an hour. Several puddings may be mixed and 
 boiled together, and are very useful for keeping 
 in the house to be used as occasion requires. 
 If finely-minced cooked meat be substituted for 
 the suet, this pudding may be eaten cold. 
 Another excellent hunter's pudding may be 
 made by taking a pound and a half of the mince 
 made for mince pies, mixing it with six ounces 
 of finely-grated bread-crumos and three eggs. 
 Probable cost. Is. 3d., exclusive of the wine, 
 etc. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 HUNTER'S SALMI. 
 
 Take cold roast game — if underdone so 
 much the better — carve it into neat joints, re- 
 move the skin, etc., score the flesh lightly 
 across in two or three places, dredge a little 
 salt and cayenne over, and put them into a 
 saucepan. Squeeze the strained juice of a 
 lemon over them, and add a tea-spoonful of 
 finely-minced lemon-rind, three table-spoonfuls 
 of the best salad-oil, and six of light wine. 
 Let the pieces of meat remain until they are 
 quite hot, and send rusks or grilled crusts to 
 table with them. Time, a few minutes to heat 
 through. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the 
 game and wine. Sufficient, one bird for two or 
 three persons. 
 
 HUNTER'S SOUP. 
 
 Partially roast a brace of well-kept partridges, 
 or a partridge and a grouse. Put them rather 
 close to a clear fire, and baste them plentifully. 
 As soon as the outside is well browned take 
 them up, and when nearly cool cut the meat 
 from the bones in neat fillets, and bruise the 
 bones thoroughly. Cut half a pound of lean 
 ham into dice, and fry these in two ounces of 
 butter with a sliced carrot, an onion, and a little 
 parsley. Mix in very smoothly two table-spoon- 
 fuls of flour or ground rice, and when slightly 
 browned add two quarts of strong beef gravy, 
 the bruised bones, and a little salt and cayenne. 
 Simmer gently for two hours, then strain the 
 soup. Add the slices of meat and a glass of 
 claret, and let it heat once more without boil- 
 ing. Serve the meat with the soup. Time, 
 twenty minutes to roast the partridges. Prob- 
 able cost, uncertain, game being variable in 
 price. Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 HUSBAND'S PIE. 
 
 Take the remains of a cold loin of mutton, 
 and cut the meat into square pieces; lay them 
 in a dish with small pieces of bacon on top, 
 then a layer of baked or fried mushrooms. 
 Season to taste with salt and pepper, put half 
 a pint of good gravy or stock m, cover with 
 bread-crumbs, then with mashed potatoes, and 
 bake for half an hour in a fairly hot oven. 
 
HYS 
 
 321 
 
 ICI 
 
 HYSSOP TEA (Invalid Cookery). 
 
 Pour a q^uart of boiling' water over half an 
 ounce of dried hyssop-flowers. Cover it closely, 
 and let it remain for a quarter of an hour. 
 Strain the infusion, and sweeten it with a table- 
 spoonful of honey. Two table-spoonfuls should 
 be taken three times a day. Hyssop tea is good 
 Probable cost, 3d. ~ ~ • 
 
 for chest diseases 
 for a quart, 
 
 Sufficient 
 
 ICE COLOUR. 
 
 Ices are sometimes coloured simply with 
 cochineal, but we append the following recipe, 
 copied from good authority. Boil over a slow 
 fire for five or six minutes in a pint of water, 
 or clarified sugar if not to be used too quickly, 
 equal quantities of cochineal (bruised) and 
 salts of wormwood, an ounce of each. Add 
 three ounces of cream of tartar, and an ounce 
 of rock alum ; but remove the saucepan from the 
 fire before putting in the cream of tartar, etc., 
 or it will boil over, and the whole mixture will 
 be spoiled. 
 
 ICED PUDDING. 
 
 Make a custard with half a pint of milk, the 
 yolks of four eggs, two ounces of sugar, and a 
 little vanilla. When thick and smooth add half 
 a pint of cream and half a gill of maraschino. 
 Freeze till stiff. Take two ounces of stale 
 spongecake soaked in cream and two ounces of 
 dried fruit, consisting of dried cherries and pine- 
 apple, cut small. Put the mould in ice. Place 
 a little of the ice cream at the bottom, then a 
 layer of fruit and another of spongecake. Re- 
 peat till the mould is full. Cover closely and 
 embed in ice. 
 
 ICED PUDDING (another way). 
 
 Beat up eight eggs, and add to them twelve 
 ounces of good sugar and a pint and a half of 
 new milk. Pound together in a mortar sweet 
 and bitter almonds, half a pound of the former 
 and two ounces of the latter, which should be 
 blanched, and dried in a clean cloth, then 
 pounded, and put with the other ingredients 
 into a well-lined saucepan. Stir, and let the 
 pudding thicken, but do not let it boil. Strain 
 and put it into the freezing-pot for half an 
 hour, when it should be transferred to an ice- 
 pudding mould, and kept in the ice until re- 
 quired for use. Serve turned out, with a com- 
 pote of fruit in the dish, and some oi^pr the 
 top of the pudding. A gill of Curagoa, maras- 
 chino, or any other liqueur will improve the 
 pudding. 
 
 ICED PUNCH. 
 
 Get three medium-sized lemons, or two large 
 ones, vTith good rough rinds, and eight ounces of 
 sugar in lumps. Kub off the outer lemon-rind 
 on the sugar, also the rind of two China oranges. 
 Dissolve the sugar by pouring the juice of the 
 fruit (which should be squeezed dry) over it, 
 and then pressing and stirring it until thor- 
 oughly mixed, as much depends on the careful 
 incorporation of the juices with the sugar; add 
 water (boiling) until the sherljet, for so it is 
 called, is of the desired flavour, and when cool 
 enough, pour in brandy and rum — a pint of 
 each will be sufficient. This will make four 
 
 quarts of excellent punch. The Italians beat 
 the whites of eggs to froth, and add it to the 
 sherbet; it is then iced, and served in glasses. 
 The sherbet is much richer if the lemon-pulp be 
 beaten in with the sugar, but it should be 
 strained before the spirits are added to it. 
 
 ICELAND MOSS JELLY. 
 
 Wash four ounces of Iceland moss in warm 
 water, and having drained it set it over the fire 
 in a quart of cold water. Stir until it boils, 
 when it should be covered up and allowed to 
 simmer for an hour. Add four ounces of sugar, 
 a gill of sherry, the juiqe of two lemons, the 
 rind of half a lemon, and the white of an egg 
 whisked with half, a gill of cold water; stir 
 the jelly until it boils, and strain through a 
 flannel bag. This moss is considered effica- 
 cious in cases of debility and chest complaints, 
 but its bitter taste renders it disagreeable to 
 many. 
 
 ICE, MOCK. 
 
 Dissolve an ounce of gelatine in a cupful of 
 milk. Put with it one pint of fresh fruit (straw- 
 berries, raspberries, or red currants) which has 
 been rubbed through a sieve, and add half a pint 
 of cream and a little sugar. Put the cream 
 into a mould till set. If liked, melted jam can 
 be used instead of the fruit pulp. 
 
 ICE, PRESERVATION AND CUTTING OF. 
 
 Ice may be preserved by burying it in saw- 
 dust, or wrapping it first in paper, then in 
 flannel, and keeping it in a tub with flannel 
 thrown over. The paper and flannel must be 
 changed when wet. Ice may be divided into 
 small pieces by placing a needle point down- 
 wards on the ice, and striking the head of it 
 with a small hammer. 
 
 ICES. 
 
 Ices are so easily and inexpensively made 
 that they ought to be in much more general use 
 than they are. An ice machine can be pur- 
 chased for a few shillings. It consists of a 
 metal pail placed inside a much larger pail. 
 The mixture to be frozen is put into the inner 
 pail, or freezing pot, and it is surrounded with 
 chopped ice and salt placed in the larger pail. 
 The degree of cold thus produced is 32° below 
 freezing point. The mixture must be stirred 
 constantly until it begins to set. If ices are 
 being made, they can be served as soon as the 
 mixture is sufficiently firm; but if, on the other 
 hand, an ice-pudding is required, the ice must 
 be taken out of the freezing-pot as soon as it is 
 slightly set, and put into the mould, which must 
 be completely buried in the ice and salt. A 
 large number of recipes for Ices are given, 
 the names of which will be found in the classified 
 index at end of the volume. 
 
 ICES, SUGAR CLARIFIED FOR. 
 
 Dissolve six pounds of sugar in four quarts of 
 water. Let it then come slowly to a boil ; add 
 the white of an egg, well beaten, to the water, 
 and boil ten minutes, when it may be strained 
 and bottled. It is difficult to freeze ices which 
 are over sweet. 
 
 ICING FOR CAKES. 
 
 (See Frost oe Icing fob Cakes.) 
 
ICI 
 
 322 
 
 IND 
 
 ICING FOR CAKES, ALMOND. 
 
 (See AiMOND IciNa fob Cakes.) 
 
 ICING FOR FRUIT PIES AND TARTS. 
 
 Before putting the pie or tart in the oven, 
 wet it all over with cold water, sprinkle fine 
 white sugar thickly on it, and press this lightly 
 with the hand. 
 ICING, VIENNA. 
 
 Beat six ounces of fresh butter to a cream, 
 add to it half a pound of icing sugar, a dessert- 
 spoonful of brandy, and one of maraschino or 
 other liqueur. Work this with a wooden spoon 
 until creamy, and colour it if desired. This 
 icing does not dry like the ordinary icing, but 
 remains creamy. It can begqueezed on caies 
 and pastry through a forcife^bag to form any 
 required design or motto. \ 
 
 IMPERIAL CAKE. ^ 
 
 Separate the yolks from the 'Whites of six 
 eggs, beat the yolks until light, and the whites 
 to a firm froth. Have ready the crumb of three 
 French rolls soaked in milk and squeezed dry. 
 Beat the bread and four ounces of melted 
 butter together, then add the egg-yolks, two 
 ounces of fine sugar (pounded), and some grated 
 lemon-peel. While beating the mixture, add 
 currants, sultana raisins, pounded blanched 
 almonds, and candied peel, two ounces of each, 
 and lastly stir in the frothed whites of the eggs. 
 Bake in a shallow cake-tin and a moderate oven. 
 Sprinkle the tin with fine crumbs, and the cake, 
 Tirtien done, with fine sugar. Time, one hour. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 
 
 IMPERIAL CREAM. 
 
 Put the strained juice of three lemons into a 
 rather deep glass dish. Boil a quart of cream 
 with the thin rind of a lemon, and pour it into 
 a jug, stirring in at the same time, by degrees, 
 eight ounces of finely-powdered sugar. Keep 
 the cream stirred until it is nearly cold, and the 
 sugar is quite dissolved, then add it to the 
 strained juice, keeping the jug as high as possi- 
 ble, and mixing the juice and cream well to- 
 gether as it falls from the spout of the jug. 
 This cream should be allowed several hours to 
 set. Probable cost, 2s. 3d. 
 
 IMPERIAL DRINK. 
 
 Put half an ounce of cream of tartar into a 
 large jug, which should be well heated first ; 
 add the rind of a large lemon, a quarter of a 
 pound of lump sugar, and about three pints of 
 boiling water from the kettle: Cover closely, 
 and let the jug stand near the fire for an hour, 
 or so. Stir the liquid occasionally while hot, 
 and when quite cold and clear, pour off from the 
 sediment. This is a cooling and pleasant drink 
 foi" the summer. Probable cost, 3d. 
 
 IMPERIAL GINGERBREAD. 
 
 Take twelve ounces of dried flour, and blend 
 with it six ounces of butter. Make into a paste 
 with a pint of cream and six ounces of treacle 
 stirred together by degrees before being added 
 to the flour; the cream is liable to get turned 
 if this is not carefully done. Strew in an ounce 
 of caraway-seeds, with a quarter of a pound of 
 sugar, and half an ounce of powdered ginger. 
 The paste should be stiff. When cut into 
 shapes, stick candied orange or lemon peel on 
 
 the top, and bake on a tin plate, well buttered. 
 Time, ten to flfteen minutes to bake. Probable 
 cost, 2s. 6d. for this quantity, (^ee also Gingeb- 
 
 BBEAD, ImPBBIAL.) 
 IMPERIAL PUNCH, COLD. 
 
 Cut a pineapple into very thin slices, and 
 slice also four closely-peeled China oranges, 
 leaving none of the white pith attached to the 
 orange-slices. Put the slices into a' bowl. Ex- 
 tract the flavour from an inch length of vanilla, 
 and about half an inch of stick cinnamon, by 
 heating them in a quart of water with the 
 peel of a Seville orange. Rub off the 
 rind of lemon on a lump or two of sugar, and 
 sq'ueeise the juice from four lemons into the bowl, 
 adding' the sugar with more lemon-juice to make 
 half a pound, then strain in the vanilla liquid, 
 and cover to get cold. When quite cold, mix a 
 bottle each of rum, hock, and champagne, with 
 a pint of seltzer water. Stir well, and serve in 
 champagne glasses, cold. 
 
 INDIAN BURDWAN. 
 
 A very savoury and highly-approved Indian 
 dish. The joints of a parboiled fowl are gen- 
 erally used for this dish, but if necessary the 
 remains of chicken or fowls that have been 
 served before, and even rabbit, veal, or lamb, 
 may be warmed up in the sauce, for which the 
 folfowing is the recipe. Peel and chop very 
 finely four shallots and an onion. Put them 
 into a stewpan with a small cup of good stock, 
 a table-spoonful of the essence of anchovies, a 
 little cayenne, and an ounce of butter rolled in 
 flour. Stir over the fire until the sauce is ready 
 to boil, then put it aside to simmer till the 
 onions are done, adding a small cupful of mixed 
 Indian pickles, cut into less than half-inch 
 pieces, a table-spoonful of chilli vinegar, and 
 one or two glasses of wine, Madeira or sherry. 
 Simmer the sauce to make the pickles tender, 
 and pour in the wine when the fowl is ready to 
 be stewed. Skin and lay the fowl in neat 
 pieces into the stewpan with the sauce, and if 
 the bird has been only parboiled, stew it gently 
 for fifteen or twenty minutes, but for a thor- 
 oughly cooked fowl serve as soon as it is ready 
 to boil, with the juice of a fresh lime. Rice is 
 sometimes served with Burdwan as with curry. 
 
 INDIAN BURDWAN (another way). 
 
 (See Btjbdwan, Indian.) 
 INDIAN CHUTNEY. 
 
 Chutney of excellent quality may be bought 
 so cheaply that it is hardly worth while to make 
 it at home ; but for the benefit of those who 
 prefer to make their own we give the following 
 recipe. Boil together a pint, of good vinegar 
 with half a pound of sour,''uhripe apples, peeled, 
 cored, and quartered. When pulped and cool, 
 add, first pounding them separate^ in a mortar 
 and afterwards together, the followiilgf' ingre- 
 dients : — Four ounces of stoned raisins, eight 
 ounces of brown sugar, two ounces of garlic, 
 and two ounces of mustard-seed ; mix these well 
 with two ounces of powdered ginger., the same 
 of salt, and one ounce of cayenne. Put the 
 mixture into an earthenware jar, and set the 
 jar in a warm corner by the fire until next 
 morning, when the chutney may be put into 
 small jars and tied down. It will keep good a 
 
IND 
 
 323 
 
 IND 
 
 year or two. Time to stew apples, until soft. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 INDIAN CORNFLOUR BREAD. 
 
 Take Indian maize and fine wheaten flour in 
 the proportions of two pounds of the former to 
 four pounds of the latter. Mix in an earthen 
 pan, with a little salt to flavour. Make a hollow 
 in the centre, and put into it two table-spoonfuls 
 of yeast stirred into half a pint of warm water ; 
 make a batter of it and the surrounding flour ; 
 cover lightly with flour and with a warm 
 woollen cloth, and place before the fire to rise 
 for an hour or more. When well risen, knead 
 the flour into a smooth dough with as much 
 more warm water as will be necessary, and then 
 make it into loaves, which should be allowed to 
 rise for nearly half an hour before being baked. 
 Time, an hour and three-quarters to two hours. 
 Sufficient for two loaves. 
 
 INDIAN CORNFLOUR BREAD (another way). 
 
 (.See Beead, Indian Cobn.) 
 
 INDIAN CRUMPETS. 
 
 Stir into a quart of warmed milk two large 
 table-spoonfuls of yeast, a little salt, and as 
 much wheat flour as will thicken the milk to a 
 batter. Cover it up closely by the side of the 
 fire until next morning, then add a gill of melted 
 butter, and make into a soft dough with yellow 
 cornmeal. Eub a griddle over with butter, 
 and bake about fifteen minutes. Probable 
 cost. Is. 
 
 INDIAN CURRY. 
 
 Cut two pounds of undressed meat, sweet- 
 breads, fowls, or rabbits, with a rasHer of bacon, 
 into neat pieces or joints. Stew in a quarter of 
 a pound of butter a clove of garlic, and an onion 
 or two chopped, take these up when brown, fry 
 the meat in the same fat, drain it and lay it 
 in a saucepan. Mix three dessert-spoonfuls of 
 curry-powder, a table-spoonful of flour, and a 
 tea-spoonful of salt, in sufficient water to make 
 it into a smooth paste, then add a little more 
 water if required; shake the mixture well in a 
 separate stewpan till it boils. Pour the gravy 
 over the meat, simmer gently till this is tender. 
 Before serving add a table-spoonful of lemon- 
 juice. Serve the rice in a separate dish, the 
 gravy in the dish with the meat. Time, an hour 
 or more to stew. 
 
 INDIAN CURRY (another way). 
 
 Beat up two eggs with a quarter of a pint of 
 milk, and beat well into the milk a slice of 
 bread previously soaked in milk. Pound a few 
 sweet almonds, and fry a sliced onion in an 
 ounce of butter. Mix all well together with a 
 table-spoonful of curry, another ounce of butter, 
 and six or eight ounces of minced fowl or other 
 cold cooked meat, seasoned with salt. Melt a 
 little butter with some lemon-juice, rub a baking- 
 dish with it, and fill with the curry. Serve 
 boiled rice separately. Time, half an hour. 
 Probable cost. Is., exclusive of the meat. 
 
 INDIAN CURRY-POWDER. 
 
 It is necessary to have all the seeds used in 
 the preparation of curry-powder well dried. A 
 cool oven will dry them best. Put them in at 
 night, they will be ready for pounding in the 
 morning. Pound together an ounce each of 
 
 coriander- and poppy-seed, half an ounce of 
 ground ginger, and the same of mustard-seed, 
 with a quarter of an ounce of red chillies, and 
 half a small tea-spoonful of cinnamon. Cork 
 tightly the bottle containing this mixture. 
 
 INDIAN DEVIL MIXTURE. 
 
 To a table-spoonful each of vinegar, ketchup, 
 and chutney-paste add an ounce of dissolved 
 butter, a dessert-spoonful of made mustard, salt, 
 and a small cup of good rich gravy. Blend these 
 ingredients thoroughly, and rub them into the 
 meat. Make all hot together slowly. Time, ten 
 minutes to make hot. 
 
 INDIAN DISH OF FOWL. 
 
 (See Fowl, Indian Dish op.) 
 
 INDIAN FRITTERS. 
 
 Beat two eggs well, whites and yolks 
 together; add two ounces of semolina by 
 degrees, and then a quarter of a pint of milk, 
 making a smooth batter. Put three ounces of 
 fresh butter in a small saucepan, and when it 
 boils put in one dessert-spoonful of batter at a 
 time, and fry to a rich brown colour. Fry each 
 separately, and serve hot, dusted with castor 
 sugar. 
 
 INDIAN GINGERBREAD. 
 
 Put a small tea-cupful of water into a sauce- 
 pan, and stir well in it, over a slow fire, three- 
 quarters of a pound of pounded sugar and four 
 ounces of butter until they are dissolved ; then 
 work the mixture into one pound of good dry 
 flour spiced with pounded ginger, cinnamon, and 
 cloves-T-two ounces of ginger to half an ounce of 
 cinnamon and cloves mixed. Bake on tins, 
 either in nuts or cakes. Time, about a quarter 
 of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 6d 
 
 INDIAN GRIDDLE CAKE. 
 
 To one quart of new milk add as much flour 
 as will make a thick batter. Mix with the milk 
 two eggs well beaten before the mixing, and 
 with the flour a little salt. Rub butter over a 
 hot griddle ; drop the batter from a table-spoon 
 on to it, and bake at once. 
 
 INDIAN MEAL FRITTERS. 
 
 Make a batter as for other fritters with four 
 or five table-spoonfuls of meal, a pint of warm 
 milk, and four well-beaten eggs. From a ladle 
 drop the batter into boiling lard; have plentj 
 in the pan. Keep each fritter separate, and 
 serve, after drying before the fire, as quickly 
 as possible, that they may not cool. Time, ten 
 to twelve minutes to fry. 
 
 INDIAN MEAL JOHNNY CAKES. 
 
 Make into a, firm dough one quart of Indian 
 meal, using as much warm water as may be re- 
 quired, and a little salt. Scoop out some of the 
 meal from the centre, pour in the water, and 
 mix in the usual way. Knead the dough, and 
 roll it to about an inch in thickness. Lay the 
 cake on a well-buttered griddle over a clear 
 brisk flre, and toast it on both sides. When 
 done, serve at once, split and buttered. This is 
 a favourite American cake, eaten with fried 
 bacon. 
 
 INDIAN MEAL, LOAF CAKE OF. 
 
 (See LoAP Cake, etc.) 
 
■ NO 
 
 324 
 
 IND 
 
 INDIAN MEAL MUSH. 
 
 A popular and substantial article of American 
 food, prepared like the Irish stirabout or Scotch 
 porridge. It requires longer boiling and more 
 careful mixing than oatmeal. The meal should 
 be mixed with boiling water or milk gradually, 
 and stirred rapidly between each handful to 
 prevent it from lumping. It requires long boil- 
 ing, and when boiled is served with salt, sugar, 
 and milk separately; or it may be put into a 
 well-buttered basin and served, turned out, while 
 still warm. 
 
 INDIAN MEAL PUDDING. 
 
 A half pint of Indian meal mixed with a quart 
 of boiling milk will make a good pudding, with 
 the addition of an egg, two ounces of butter 
 melted, and stirred in, some pounded sugar, a 
 little salt, nutmeg, and ginger. Bake in a well- 
 buttered dish. The yellow cornmeal is the 
 richest. For a boiled suet pudding mix flour 
 with the suet when chopped, or it will not 
 separate equally but become massed together. 
 Moisten with milk, and knead and beat the 
 dough, which should be firm, with the rolling- 
 pin to make it light. Make into dumplings of 
 the size of a large apple, and boil them separ- 
 ately tied up in cloths loosely to give room for 
 swelling. To bake pudding, two hours; boil, 
 •one hour and a half. 
 
 INDIAN MUFFINS. 
 
 Take one quart of yellow cornmeal, and stir 
 boiling water into it to make a thick batter. 
 When cool add two ounces of butter, a little salt, 
 and two eggs. Bake at once in small cakes on a 
 griddle, and when one side is brown turn the 
 •cakes over. If liked, add a teaflepoonf ul of yeast, 
 and make into a dough of soft consistency, which 
 should be covered up in a warm place to rise. 
 Bake in rings as soon as risen. The dough will 
 take about two hours to rise. Sufficient, one 
 muffin to each person. 
 
 INDIAN MULLAGATAWNY SOUP. 
 
 (See MULLAGATAWNT SOXJP.) 
 
 INDIAN MUSTARD. 
 
 To a mixture of mustard and flour in equal 
 quantities, rubbed to a smooth stiff paste with 
 boiling water, add a little salt, and reduce the 
 thickness as follows. Boil down four shallots, 
 shredded finely, with a wine-glass each of vine- 
 gar and mushroom ketchup, and half a glass of 
 anchovy sauce. In ten minutes pour these in- 
 gredients, boiling hot, into the basin over the 
 mustard and flour mixture, stirring until it is 
 smooth and of the proper consistency. Put a 
 shallot, bruised, into each bottle when stored. 
 Indian mustard will keep for some time, and is 
 excellent as a breakfast relish. Time, ten 
 minutes to boil. Sufficient for a quarter of 9, 
 pound of mustard. 
 
 INDIAN OMELET. 
 
 (See Omelet, Indian.) 
 
 INDIAN OYSTERS, CURRIED. 
 
 (See Otstees, Cuebied.) 
 INDIAN PANCAKE. 
 
 Boil half a tea-cupful of rice in milk and 
 beat it to a pulp, add it to three eggs well 
 beaten, sweeten with sugar, and flavour with 
 
 pounded cinnamon. Fry the whole of the mix- 
 ture in butter. Do not turn the pancake, but 
 when done on one side remove from the pan to 
 the front of the fire to brown the upper side. 
 Strew pounded sugar over, and divide the pan- 
 cake into four parts before sending it to table. 
 Time, seven or eight minutes to fry. Probable 
 cost, 6d. 
 
 .INDIAN PICKLE. 
 
 Place in a large dish a white cabbage cut into 
 eight divisions, half a pound of small branches 
 of cauliflower, equal quantities of gherkins, 
 French beans, radish-pods, and small onions, 
 also nasturtiums, capsicums, chillies, and any 
 other suitable vegetables. Powder them well 
 with salt, and let them remain for a day or 
 two. Drain dry, and put them into a jar, with 
 sufficient vinegar to cover : the vinegar, having 
 been previously boiled, should be poured into 
 the jar cold. Be careful to let the vinegar cover 
 the vegetables, or the pickle will not keep, and 
 to mix the spice equally among the vegetables 
 before the vinegar is poured over them. Use 
 spice as follows — the quantity given is for a 
 gallon of vinegar — three ounces of ginger sliced, 
 the same of black and long pepper mixed, twenty 
 shallots, peeled, one clove of garlic, or more if 
 the flavour is not objected to, a quarter of an 
 ounce of cayenne, a quarter of a pound of flour 
 of mustard, two ounces of salt, an ounce of 
 turmeric, and two ounces of mustard-seed. 
 Fruit, such as green grapes, codling apples, etc., 
 may be added at any time as they appear in 
 season ; but the proportions of spice and vinegar 
 must be attended to, and any addition to the 
 jar should be first soaked an hour or two in 
 vinegar before being added. When no more 
 additions are to be made, put the pickles into 
 small jars, boil the vinegar, pour it at once 
 over the pickles so as to cover them, and, when 
 cold, tie down with bladder. If the above 
 directions are attended to this pickle may be 
 kept good many years. When more spice and 
 vinegar are required, mix the spice with a little 
 of the cold vinegar first, and then boil it. When 
 boiled, pour it hot over the pickles. 
 
 INDIAN PICKLE SAUCE. 
 
 Fry an onion in butter until brown, remove it 
 from the stewpan, and stir in a dessert-spoonful 
 of curry-powder, and a table-spoonful of pickle 
 vinegar Strain and add the sauce to a quarter 
 of a pint of rich melted butter. Cut pickles 
 into dice, and serve them in the sauce. 
 
 INDIAN PILAU. 
 
 (See PiiiAu, Indian.) 
 INDIAN PILAU, PLAIN. 
 
 Cut a fowl into neat pieces, remove the skin, 
 and fry them in a stewpan, with four or five 
 ounces of butter. Take out the fowl, and mix 
 in a table-spoonful of curry-powder, a little salt, 
 and some Indian pickles cut into fine strips; 
 mangpes, however, are preferable, if they are at 
 hand. Return the cut-up fowl to the pan and set 
 the whole to stew very leisurely by the side of 
 the fire for three-quarters of an hour. Have 
 ready about a pound of well-boiled rice : it 
 should be dry, so that the grains may separate 
 one from the other. Pile it high in the middle 
 of a dish, on which arrange the fowl, and serve 
 
IND 
 
 325 
 
 ING 
 
 with the sauce poured on the top and round 
 the dish. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 Probable cost, 4s. 3d. 
 
 INDIAN POOLOOT. 
 
 Truss a fowl in the ordinary way for boiling. 
 Have ready a quart of stock and a pound of 
 rice that has been parboiled for five minutes, 
 and then drained from the water. Put the fowl 
 with them into a stewpan over a slow fire. Add 
 some onion-juice (pound half a dozen, and ex- 
 tract all their moisture by squeezing them in a 
 thin cloth), a table-spoonful of ground ginger 
 tied in a muslin bag, and the juice of a lemon. 
 When the fowl is sufficiently done, keep it 
 warm, and dry the rice before the fire. Have 
 ready three or four onions, sliced and nicely 
 fried in butter. Cut up the fowl into neat pieces, 
 and fry these in the same butter, then pile the 
 rice in the centre of a dish, the joints of fowl 
 on the top, and the sliced onions next the fowl 
 lightly scattered. Strew stewed cardamoms and 
 peppercorns all over. Garnish with fried cured 
 bacon and slices of hard-boiled eggs. Serve hot. 
 Time to boil fowl, three-quarters of an hour. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 INDIAN PUDDING. 
 
 Beat up five eggs with a quarter of a pound of 
 butter and a crumbled penny spongecake. Boil, 
 but first grate, a cocoa-nut (putting aside all 
 the brown part) in a pint of milk. In ten 
 minutes set the milk to cool, and when suf- 
 ficiently cooled stir it into the eggs, then put 
 all into a dish previously lined with puff paste, 
 and bake from a half to three-quarters of an 
 hour in a moderate oven. Probable cost, about 
 Is. 6d. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. 
 
 INDIAN PUDDING (another way). 
 
 Butter a, pudding-mould, and place on the 
 inside pieces of preserved ginger, cut into nice 
 tasteful forms. Lay slices of spongecake in a 
 bowl, and pour over them a pint of boiling 
 cream, into which, when well soaked, beat sugar 
 enough to sweeten (say about two ounces), and 
 half a dozen well-whisked eggs. Beat the mix- 
 ture, and fill the buttered basin. The pudding 
 may be steamed or boiled from three-quarters of 
 an hour to an hour, or till firm. The syrup from 
 the ginger is usually served warmed up as sauce. 
 Turn out the pudding, and send it hot to table, 
 with the sauce poured over it. Probable cost, 
 exclusive of ginger, 23. 4d. The above in- 
 gredients are sufficient for four small sponge- 
 cakes. 
 
 INDIAN PUDDING (another way). 
 
 Line a pie-dish with some good puff paste, and 
 put an edging of the same round the rim. Place 
 a layer of sliced apples at the bottom, on the 
 paste, add a salt-spoonful of grated nutmeg, and 
 sugar to taste. Next whisk ten eggs, with half 
 a pint of red wine, and at the same time place 
 three French rolls, cut in slices, to soak in a 
 pint of rich cream; add this with the eggs to 
 the ingredients already in the dish, and bake 
 the pudding from thirty to forty minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for seven or eight 
 persons. 
 INDIAN PUDDING, BAKED. 
 
 Stir a quart of boiling milk into a pint of 
 Indian cornmeal. Dissolve four ounces of 
 
 butter by heating it before the fire, mix it first 
 with a pint of molasses, and then, very gradu- 
 ally, with the meal. Flavour with nutmeg and 
 grated lemon-rind or cinnamon, and, as soon as 
 the mixture has cooled, add, stirring briskly, six 
 well-beaten eggs. Butter a dish, and bake at 
 once. Time, two hours to bake. Probable cost. 
 Is. 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 INDIAN SAUCE. 
 
 Boil together for five minutes, in a small 
 quantity of stock, a tea-spoonful of anchovy 
 sauce, a bit of glaze the size of a walnut, a table- 
 spoonful of curry-paste, and a pinch of cayenne. 
 Mix with the above half a pint of tomato pulp, 
 boil up, and serve. 
 
 INDIAN TRIFLE. 
 
 Mix six ounces of rice flour with cold milk 
 enough to make a thickish paste. Put a quart 
 of new milk into a saucepan with the rind of a 
 small lemon, and four ounces of sugar to 
 sweeten. Simmer gently, to extract the lemon 
 flavour (do this over a slow fire, and remove the 
 rind as soon as the flavour is gained); add the 
 rice and stir till the mixture leaves the sides of 
 the pan. A few drojis of the essence of ratafia 
 or vanilla is a great improvement. If for a glass 
 dish, let the trifle cool a little before turning 
 out, and when quite firm and cold, cut out some 
 of the rice, and introduce boiled custard into 
 the space. This has a very good effect when 
 some fancy device is shown. Cut an ounce of 
 sweet almonds (blanched) into spikes, and stick 
 them thickly over the top. Garnish the dish 
 with any preserved fruit or pieces of fruit jelly 
 of a rich bright colour. Time, a quarter of an 
 hour to twenty minutes to simmer milk, a few 
 minutes to boil the rice. Probable cost. Is. 
 Sufficient for one trifle. 
 
 INDIAN VEAL COLLOPS. 
 
 Mix a small cupful of grated bread-crumbs 
 with a dessert-spoonful, or rather more, of curry- 
 powder, pepper, and salt. Cut two pounds of 
 veal from the fillet, and make collops of a round 
 shape, about three inches across. Beat them 
 well, and smear them with the yolk of egg. 
 Cover the collops with the bread-crumbs and 
 curry-powder. They should be thickly incrusted 
 with crumbs, and will require to be again 
 saturated with the egg-yolk. Dip them into 
 it this time, and powder well with the bread- 
 crumbs. Fry in plenty of butter, and make a 
 sauce with more butter, a little curry-powder, 
 and some good gravy. Thicken with flour, and 
 add the juice (strained) of a lemon. Boil, and 
 serve round the collops. Time, twenty minutes 
 to fry. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for an 
 entree. 
 
 INGOLDSBY CHRISTMAS PUDDING. 
 
 Take of stoned raisins, well-washed currants, 
 and finely-shredded suet, each one pound; of 
 flour and stale grated bread-crumbs, mixed, one 
 pound ; and one pound of sifted sugar. Put 
 these ingredients into a large bowl with a 
 quarter of an ounce each of candied peel, cut 
 into bits, and mixed spice, the grated rind of 
 a lemon, and a small nutmeg. Moisten with 
 eight eggs, strained and well beaten, and two 
 glasses of brandy or rum. This quantity suffices 
 for two good-sized puddings, enough for six 
 
INV 
 
 326 
 
 IRI 
 
 persons. Time, six hours and a half for the 
 whole quantity, four hours for half. Probable 
 cost, 3s. 4d., exclusive of the brandy. 
 
 INVALID COOKERY. 
 
 I {See Sick, Cooking foe the.) 
 
 INVALID'S CUTLET. 
 
 Get a cutlet from the Join or neck of well- 
 fed, fat mutton, but cut away all the fat, and 
 leave nothing but the lean, which put into a 
 stewpan, with just enough water to cover it, and 
 a very little salt. Stew gently, and add a small 
 quantity of celery cut into thin shavings. Care- 
 fully skim off any fat that may appear on the 
 top, and when it has stewed about two hours 
 without boiling, the meat will be easy of diges- 
 tion. Add pepper and salt to taste. Time to 
 stew celery, thirty to thirty-five minutes. 
 
 INVALID'S LEMONADE. 
 
 Put about half of a sliced lemon, pared and 
 divested of the inner skin or pith, with the 
 parings, and an ounce or two of lump sugar, 
 into a jug, pour boiling water over these ingre- 
 dients, and cover closely. In two hours strain 
 for use. To the above quantity of lemon add a 
 pint of water, which will make a, refreshing 
 lemonade. Probable cost, 2d. 
 
 INVALID'S SOUP. 
 
 Split a calf's foot, and cut a pound of good, 
 lean, juicy beef and a pound of lean mutton into 
 small pieces. Put them, together with half a 
 gallon of water, into an earthenware jar, and 
 bake in a, slow oven from six to seven hours, 
 adding another quart of water, a small tea- 
 spoonful of whole allspice, and a leaf or two of 
 sage, when the mixture has been stewing three 
 or four hours. When the soup is reduced to half 
 the quantity, strain through a sieve, and, when 
 cold and a jelly, remove the fat. This soup may 
 be taken cold, or warmed up with a little ver- 
 micelli, and pepper and salt to taste. Probable 
 cost, 28. Id. Sufficient for three pints. 
 
 IRISH BLACK PUDDING. 
 
 This pudding is excellent cut into thick slices 
 when cold, and broiled over a clear fire, or 
 warmed in an oven. If so served up it should 
 only be boiled an hour, but will require longer 
 time if eaten hot. To a pound of good beef 
 suet, chopped very fine, half a. pound of bread- 
 crumbs, and the same of well-walshed currants, 
 add four ounces of pounded sweet almonds, a 
 tea^spoonful of cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves, 
 in powder, some candied peel, and enough loaf 
 sugar to sweeten. Separate the yolks from the 
 whites of four eggs, beat the yolks, and moisten 
 the above ingredients with them stirred into the 
 mixture with a pint of cream and a glass of 
 brandy. Lastly, put in the frothed whites of 
 two eggs and boil in a cloth. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. 
 
 IRISH CAKE. 
 
 Put a pound of good fresh butter into a large 
 bowl, and turn it back to a cream with the 
 hand. When well turned, beat into it three- 
 quarters of a pound of dried sugar, finely sifted 
 and made hot before the fire. Separate the 
 yolks from the whites of nine eggs, and, when 
 well beaten, stir in the yolks, keeping the hand 
 
 moved round in the same direction for about 
 twenty minutes, when dredge in by degrees a 
 pound and a quarter of dry flour, mixing well, 
 as before, for another twenty minutes. Add 
 four ounces of blanched almonds, sliced, the 
 same of candied peel, one pound or more of 
 well-washed and dried currants, a glass of 
 brandy, and, lastly, stir in gently the whites of 
 the eggs whisked to a firm froth. Bake in a hot 
 oven and in a round buttered tin. Time, an 
 hour and a half to two hours. Probable cost, 
 38. lOd. Sufficient for two cakes. 
 
 IRISH GRIDDLE CAKE. 
 
 To every three pounds of flour allow a tea- 
 spoonful of carbonate of soda and a little salt. 
 Mix the carbonate of soda with some fresh 
 buttermilk — about three breakf ast-cupf uls. 
 Make it into a stiff paste. EoU it until smooth, 
 and turn it upon the griddle often to prevent 
 burning. Time, according to size. 
 
 IRISH LUNCHEON CAKES. 
 
 Mix two pounds of dried flour with a quarter 
 of a, pound of powdered sugar and a tea-spoon- 
 ful of salt. Hub into the flour a quarter of a 
 pound of fresh butter, and add half =i pound of 
 clean currants, an ounce of candied peel, and a 
 tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda. Mix these 
 ingredients with the whites of four eggs whisked 
 to a stiff froth, and as much buttermilk as will 
 make the dough of a moderate firmness. Half 
 fill buttered tins, and bake in a tolerably quick 
 oven to a light brown. Time, one hour to bake. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for two cakes. 
 
 IRISH MOSS. 
 
 One ounce of selected Irish moss should be 
 well washed, and then soaked in a quarter of a 
 pint of cold water for three or four hours. Add 
 a pint of cold milk or milk and water, boil for a 
 few minutes, strain through fine muslin, and 
 set aside to cool. Irish Moss may be flavoured 
 Avith cinnamon, sugar, and lemon, or vanilla. 
 It will set a firm jelly. It is much used by 
 invalids suffering from pulmonary complaints. 
 
 IRISH PANCAKES. 
 
 Beat eight eggs, separating the yolks from 
 the whites. Warm » pint of cream in a rather 
 large stewpan, over a slow fire; strain, and stir 
 the beaten yolks to the cream and three ounces 
 of butter, previously melted; add two ounces 
 of pounded sugar, and dredge in six ounces of 
 fiour. When mixed quite smooth, stir into the 
 batter grated nutmeg and lemon-peel, with the 
 frothed whites of four eggs. Fry in butter. 
 Pour only enough batter in the pan to make a 
 thin pancake, and, when done, serve the pan- 
 cakes hot, piled one on another, in a hot dish. 
 Time, about five minutes to fry. Probable cost, 
 2s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 IRISH PANCAKES (another way). 
 
 Mix a pint of cream with half a dozen fresh 
 eggs, beaten and strained. Add a glass of 
 sherry, two or three ounces of butter, melted, 
 some pounded cinnamon, and nutmeg, grated, 
 a quarter of a pound of white sugar, and flour 
 sufficient to make an ordinary batter. Rub 
 butter over a clean pan, and; when the batter is 
 quite smooth, drop in the quantity to make a 
 thin pancake. Powder the pancakes well with 
 
IKI 
 
 327 ' 
 
 IRI 
 
 sugar, and serve them piled one on the other, 
 or fold them with a layer of apricot marmalade 
 between, A cut lemon, to be squeezed over 
 the pancakes, is the usual accompaniment. 
 Time, about five minutes. 
 
 IRISH PUFFS. 
 
 Make a light batter with a table-spoonful of 
 flour, half a tea-spoonful of, salt, and five well- 
 be'aten yolks of eggs. Add nearly an ounce of 
 melted butter, and stir into the batter half a 
 pint of cream and the frothed whites of the 
 eggs. Beat the batter before adding the cream, 
 etc., for nearly fifteen minutes. Bake in but- 
 tered cups. Time, about fifteen minutes to bake. 
 Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for about six 
 cups. 
 
 IRISH RICE. 
 
 Melt two ounces of butter in a.atewpan, and 
 when very hot put. into it one small onion sliced 
 and chopped. Let this cook without browning, 
 stirring constantly. Wash half a cupful of 
 rice, and add this; then pour in a qiiart of 
 white stock, or, if this is not to hand, a quart 
 of hot water. Cook till all the liquid is ab- 
 sorbed and the rice tender, then add half a 
 tea-spoonful of salt, a dash of icayeune pepper, 
 and two table-spoonfuls of grated cheese. Stir 
 all well together with a fork, turn into a 
 baking-dish, and sprinkle the top. with grated 
 cheese, or beat up an egg with a table-spoon- 
 ful of grated cheese and pour over. Set in the 
 oven to brown slightly; serve hot. Probable 
 cost, 6d. 
 
 IRISH ROCK. 
 
 ■ A sweet for dessert; composed of almonds, 
 sugar, and butter poUnded together, and 
 moulded into an egg-like shape. It has a very 
 pretty appearance when arranged to contrast 
 with green sweetmeats and bright-coloured pre- 
 served fruits. Wash the salt from half a pound 
 of butter, and beat into it a quarter of a pound 
 of finely-powdered sugar ; blanch a pound of 
 sweet almonds and an ounce of bitter. Pound 
 these in a mortar, reserving enough of the sweet 
 almonds to spike for ornamenting the dish when, 
 sent to table; add the butter and sugar, with 
 about a quarter of a glass of brandy, and pound 
 until smooth and white, when, after having be- 
 come firm, it may be shaped with a couple of 
 spoons. It should be placed high on a glass 
 dish with a decoration of green sweetmeats, the 
 spiked almonds, and a sprig of myrtle. Garnish 
 with any green fruits or sweetme&ts. 
 
 IRISH. ROLLS. 
 
 Put a tea-spoonful of salt and half a tea- 
 spoonful of carbonate of soda to two pounds of 
 flour, sweetened with about two tea-spoonfuls 
 of finely-powdered sugar. Beat the whites of a 
 couple of eggs to a froth, and make a dough 
 with them, adding as much good butter- 
 milk as will make an ordinary paste. Shape 
 into cakes or rolls at once, and bake from fifteen 
 to twenty minutes, according to size. Sour milk 
 may be used, but buttermilk will make the rolls 
 richer; Probable cost. Id. each. 
 
 IRISH SALMON PICKLE. 
 
 Trim any part of salmon left from dinner, or 
 boil a nice handsome piece. Lay it in a deep 
 
 dish, and, when cold, pour over it the following 
 pickle, also cold. If closely covered and well 
 basted with the pickle the salmon will keep 
 many days. Boil together in half a pint of 
 vinegar, a gill of water, a gill of white wine, 
 some sliced horse-radish, two blades of jnace, two 
 bay-leaves, whole pepper, allspice, and a little 
 salt. Let it get cold, and pour it over the fish. 
 Time, ten minutes to boil. 
 
 IRISH SANDWICHES. 
 
 Cut the meat in very thin slices from par- 
 tridges, grouse, or any game that has been 
 roasted, and shred some celery. Lay the meat 
 on delicately thin fresh toast — it should be crisp, 
 and not tough — strew celery over, and season 
 well with Tartar sauce. , Serve in squares, and 
 on a napkin. 
 
 IRISH SEED CAKE. 
 
 Beat nine eggs, yolks and whites, until they 
 are light, and turn eight ounces of fresh butter 
 to a cream, adding by degrees a little rose- 
 water until a quarter of a pint has been used. 
 Mix with the butter a pound of finely-powdered 
 sugar, and add the beaten eggs. Beat the mix- 
 ture, and dredge into it three-quarters of a 
 pound of well-dried flour and nearly a quarter 
 of a pound of rice flour. Flavour with essence 
 of any kind liked, and scatter in an ounce of 
 caraway-seeds and some pounded bitter almonds. 
 Bake in a quick oven. The baking-tin should 
 be lined with paper, and both tin and paper 
 must be well buttered. Time, an hour and a 
 half to bake. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. 
 
 IRISH STEW. 
 
 Take from two to thre^ pounds of chops from 
 the best end of a neck of mutton, and pare away 
 nearly all the fat, for an Irish stew should not 
 be greasy. If liked, a portion of the breast may 
 be cut into squares and used, but a neck of 
 mutton is the best joint for the purpbse. Take 
 as many potatoes as will amount after Reeling 
 to twice the weight of the meat. Sliee them, 
 and slice also eight large onions. Put a layer ol 
 mixed potatoes and onions at the bottom of a 
 stewpan. Place the meat on this and season 
 it plentifully with pepper and slightly with salt.. 
 Pack the ingredients closely, and cover the meat 
 with another layer of potato and onion. Pour 
 -iu as much water or stock as will moisten the 
 topmost layer, cover the stewpan tightly, and 
 let its contents simin'er gently for three, hours. 
 Be careful not lo remove the lid, as this will 
 let out the flavour. 
 
 IRISH STEW (another way). 
 
 Put some neat chops, cut from the neck of 
 mutton, into a stewpan; they should be 
 trimmed, and the bones shortened a little. 
 Braise them for half an hour, and season with 
 pepper, salt, and a few chopped mushrooms. 
 Butter a mould, and thickly line it with mashed 
 potatoes • lay in the chops, and bake. When 
 done, turn out on a hot dish, and pour in some 
 good gravy through an opening on the top. 
 Time, about half an hour to bake. Two 
 dozen potatoes will be quite sufficient for this 
 dish. 
 IRISH STEW, AUSTRALIAN. 
 
 (See Tinned Australian Meats.) 
 
IRI 
 
 328 
 
 ISI 
 
 IRISH TRIPE. 
 
 Procure the tripe quite fresh, cut it neatly 
 into pieces two inches broad and four inches 
 long, stew them for an hour in milk and water 
 and a little salt; add onions, and boil them 
 until tender. Put the tripe on » dish, thicken 
 some of the sauce with flour and butter, and 
 mix in a little mustard and the onions, whioh 
 should be first drained and pressed through a 
 sieve. Make the sauce hot, and serve it poured 
 over the tripe. If liked, a little lemon-juice 
 may be added. Time, an hour to stew tripe 
 alone; about three-quarters of an hour with 
 onions. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. 
 
 IRISH WALNUT KETCHUP. 
 
 Extract the inner white part of some green 
 walnuts, and, after pounding them thoroughly, 
 strain off the juice to make it clear, let it stand 
 for twelve hours, and strain again. Add to 
 each pint of juice a large onion, two ounces of 
 horse-radish, sliced, half an ounce of shallots, a 
 clove of garlic, half a pint of vinegar, and half a 
 pound of anchovies. These ingredients being 
 well mixed, boil for two hours. When cold, 
 strain the liquor until quite clear, then add to 
 each pint of the ketchup half an ounce of spice 
 (mace, cloves, nutmeg, and whole black pepper 
 in equal quantities), two wine-glassfuls of port, 
 and a quarter of a glass of soy. Boil again for 
 three-quarters of an hour, but do not strain the 
 liquor, as the apices must be distributed in the 
 several bottles in which it is placed. The sauce- 
 pan must always be kept closely covered, or 
 the delicious aromatic flavour will evaporate. 
 Pour the ketchup into a jar, and cover till cold, 
 when it can be poured into bottles, but the 
 greatest attention must be paid to their being 
 clean and dry. Seal the corks. Probable cost. 
 Is. per pint. 
 
 ISINGLASS AND GELATINE JELLY. 
 
 When jelly is to be made for the table, 
 isinglass and gelatine are frequently used in- 
 stead of calf's foot stock, and possess the ad- 
 vantage of being made much more easily and 
 quickly. From isinglass especially, many whole- 
 some and agreeable dishes may be made. It is, 
 however, difiicult to give the exact proportions 
 to be used, as isinglass differs so much in 
 quality. The best may be known by its dull- 
 looking, hard skin, and by its requiring fully 
 half an hour's boiling to dissolve it. The com- 
 moner kinds dissolve very quickly, and may be 
 known by their white, fine appearance. When 
 good isinglass is used, one ounce will stiffen a 
 pint and a half of jelly. Simmer the isinglass, 
 "until it is thoroughly dissolved, in a pint of 
 water. Just before it is taken from the fire, add 
 a tea-spoonful of strained lemon-juice, a table- 
 spoonful of cold water, and a lump of sugar. Let 
 all boil together two or three minutes, and re- 
 move the scum carefully as it rises. Strain 
 through a jelly-bag, add wine, lemon-juice, 
 sugar, and flavouring according to taste, and 
 pour into a damp mould. Let the jelly remain 
 in a cool place until it is firm. Gelatine is more 
 frequently employed than isinglass. Allow an 
 ounce of gelatine for a pint of liquid. In cold 
 weather, or when using small moulds, more 
 liquid may be taken. Soak the gelatine for an 
 hour, pour boiling liquid upon it, and stir it 
 
 over the fire until dissolved. Clarify with white 
 of egg. (See Calf's Foot Jellt.) 
 
 ISINGLASS JELLY, CONSTANTIA. 
 
 Dissolve an ounce of the best isinglass in a 
 pint of water. Put to it a quarter of a pound of 
 good loaf sugar, and part of the rind of a 
 Seville orange, pared thin so as to leave none 
 of the white skin. Simmer over a slow fire, add 
 nearly a pint of Constantia, strain through a 
 muslin, doubled three or four times, and mould 
 when cool, carefully keeping back any sediment. 
 As a general rule moulds should be soaked in 
 water some two or three hours before they are 
 used. Time, about fifteen minutes to simmer. 
 Probable cost. Is. 4d., exclusive. of wine. Suf- 
 ficient for two moulds. 
 
 ISINGLASS JELLY,' CRANBERRY. 
 
 Mix a quart of cranberry- juice with a pint of 
 isinglass jelly and half a pound of loaf sugar, 
 boil it for five minutes, and, after straining, pour 
 into a mould. Instead of isinglass, this jelly is 
 sometimes made with ground rice, as follows. 
 Strain the juice of a quart of cranberries after 
 they have been boiled ; mix with it slowly 
 enough ground rice to thicken it to the con- 
 sistency of jelly; now boil it, taking care that 
 the rice does not adhere to the bottom of the 
 pan, add sugar to taste, pour into a mould, and,- 
 when cold, turn out on a glass dish, with a 
 garnish of Devonshire cream. Probable cost of 
 isinglass. Is. per ounce ; ground rice, 3d. to 4d. 
 per pound. 
 
 ISINGLASS JELLY, CURRANT AND RASPBERRY. 
 
 Bruise in a jar two pounds of red and one 
 pound of white currants with a pint of red rasp- 
 berries ; place the jar in boiling water to ex- 
 tract the juice. Boil three-quarters of a pint 
 of water, two ounces of isinglass, and a pound 
 of loaf sugar together, allow both the fruit juice, 
 when strained, and the sweetened isinglass to 
 cool, then mix equal quantities, pour into shapes 
 and place the- jelly in ice. Probable cost of 
 isinglass. Is. per ounce. 
 
 ISINGLASS JELLY, FRUIT. 
 
 (See Fbttit Isinglass Jellt.) 
 
 'isinglass jelly, grape. 
 
 (See Geape Isinglass Jellt.) 
 isinglass jelly (Invalid Cookery). 
 
 A pleasant and nourishing jelly is made by 
 boiling isinglass shavings and a portion of the 
 brown crust of a loaf seasoned with Jamaica 
 peppers. To an ounce of the shavings and a 
 quart of boiling water, add a tea-spoonful of 
 Jamaica peppers, and the bread-crust, which 
 should be brown, but not black. Boil until it 
 has wasted a pint. This jelly will remain good 
 for some time. A spoonful may be put into 
 soup, tea, or any other beverage. Probable cost, 
 Is. 2d. 
 
 ISINGLASS jelly, LEMON. 
 
 Peel the rind of two lemons, without any of 
 the white inner skin, and put it into an ounce 
 and a half of isinglass clarified in a pint of 
 water, and sweetened according to taste — say 
 with half a pound of loaf sugar. Strain the juice 
 of four large lemons» and pour it gently into 
 the isinglass when cool. Pour it at once (the 
 
ISI 
 
 329 
 
 ITA 
 
 lemon-rind must be taken .out, tut the liquid 
 need not be strained) into small moulds, or 
 into one large one, and cover with ice broken 
 small. This jelly may be made from calf's foot 
 stock. Put to each pint the juice of three 
 lemons. Time, an hour to prepare. Probable 
 cost, 2s. The above ingredients are sufficient 
 for a pint and a half mould. 
 
 ISINGLASS JELLY, LEMON another way). 
 (See Lemon IsingiiAss Jelly.) 
 
 ISINGLASS JELLY, ORANGE. 
 
 To the juice of eight fine sweet oranges and 
 four Seville, well strained, add an ounce and a 
 half of isinglass dissolved in boiling water, 
 sweeten with six ounces of pounded loaf sugar, 
 and stir it gently over the fire, but do not let 
 it boil. Pour the jelly into earthenware moulds 
 when nearly cold, the moulds having been pre- 
 viously filled with cold water. Probable cost, 3s. 
 
 ISINGLASS JELLY, ORANGE (another way). 
 (See Ohange Isinglass Jellt.) 
 
 ISINGLASS JELLY, STRAWBERRY. 
 
 Take a quart of fine ripe scarlet strawberries, 
 and pour over them a pint of water that has 
 boiled for twenty minutes with three-quarters 
 of a pound of loaf sugar. The next day, drain 
 off the syrup from the strawberries without 
 bruising them, and, to increase the fruity 
 flavour, add a little lemon-juice and half a pint 
 of red currant juice. Clarify two ounces and a 
 half of isinglass in a pint of water, and let it 
 stand till nearly cold, then mix it with the fruit- 
 juice and pour into moulds. It is desirable to 
 place the moulds in ice. Probable cost, 2s. lOd., 
 exclusive of fruit. 
 
 ISINGLASS, TO CLARIFY. 
 
 Allow one quart of fresh water, the beaten 
 white of an egg, and two table-spoonfuls of 
 lemon-juice to each quarter of a pound of isin- 
 glass; mix these ingredients thoroughly, and 
 put them into a saucepan; take care that the 
 isinglass does not burn at the bottom of the pan, 
 and remove the scum as it rises. Strain, and 
 put aside for use. The isinglass should be quite 
 clear. A number of excellent jellies may be 
 made by ,extracting the juice from fresh fruit 
 and mixing with it a little isinglass, without 
 boiling. The flavour and colour are both better 
 than when the juice is boiled. The best isinglass 
 will require half an hour's gentle boiling to dis- 
 solve it. 
 
 ITALIAN CREAM. 
 
 Put a pint of cream and milk, in equal parts, 
 into a. saucepan, with loaf sugar according to 
 taste, and the ,rind of a lemon, reserving the 
 . juice. Keep it boiling slowly until the lemon 
 has imparted sufficient flavour, then strain it 
 into a bowl, in order to mix freely with it the 
 yolks of four eggs well beaten. Pour this mix- 
 ture into a jug, and set the jug in boiling water. 
 Take care that the contents do not boil; stir 
 them till they become thick, then remove the 
 cream from the fire, and when cool stir into it 
 the lemon-juice and an ounce of dissolved 
 isinglass. The cream must now be well whipped, 
 and, if it is to be served in glasses, drained on a 
 sieve, but if for a mould, fill the vessel with the 
 cream when whipped, and set it in a cold place 
 
 (on ice if possible) to set. Turn the cream out 
 on a glass dish, and ornament with crystallised 
 or preserved fruits. Time, from five to eight 
 minutes to stir in the jug. Probable cost, 2s. 6(1. 
 Sufficient for a pint and a half. 
 
 ITALIAN CREAM (another way). 
 
 Stir into a pint of thick cream some lumps of 
 sugar which have been used to rub off the rinds 
 of two lemons, and as much more pounded loaf 
 sugar as will sweeten. Whisk up the cream with 
 the juice of one lemon, strain an ounce or more 
 of dissolved isinglass to it, and beat well to- 
 gether. Flavour with noyau or Cura9oa, and 
 fill a mould. Freeze, turn out, and garnish with 
 any kind of sweetmeats or preserved fruits. 
 Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 28. 9d., 
 exclusive of liqueurs. Sufficient for a pint and 
 a half mould. (See also Cbeam, Italian.) 
 
 ITALIAN JELLY. 
 
 This is made with any fruit jelly. Take an 
 earthenware mould which has previously lain in 
 cold water for two or three hours, fill it about 
 half-way up with jelly. When it is quite firm, 
 place upon it - thick layer of stiff blancmange, 
 cut to the size of the mould. Now fill up with 
 another fruit jelly nearly cold. 
 
 ITALIAN MACARONI SOUP. 
 
 (See Macaboni Soup.) 
 ITALIAN MACAROONS. 
 
 Blanch and pound eight ounces of sweet 
 almonds (expose them to the air for a day or 
 two before they are required to be pounded) 
 with a little orange-flower water, one pound of 
 sifted sugar, and the frothed whites of three 
 eggs. Smooth the ingredients by rubbing them 
 well together, and add very gradually the 
 frothed whites. When the paste looks soft and 
 smooth, drop it, in quantities about the size of 
 a walnut, through a funnel on to some wafer- 
 paper. Bake on the ordinary plate, in a rather 
 slow oven, to a pale colour. A strip or two of 
 almond should be stuck on the top of each 
 macaroon before baking. Time, flfteen to 
 twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost. Is. 8d. 
 per pound. 
 
 ITALIAN MERINGUES. 
 
 Boil a pound of the finest lump sugir in a 
 pint of water. When it has boiled long enough 
 to whiten and become flaky as it drops from the 
 spoon, scrape from the sides of the pan any 
 sugar that may be adhering, and stir in six 
 whites of eggs, which have been whisked to the 
 stiffest possible froth; do this very gradually 
 and slowly, at the same time mixing the mass 
 as briskly as possible to make it smooth. Con- 
 tinue to stir until the mixture is firm enough 
 to retain the shape of a tea-spoon, in which it 
 is now to be moulded. Slip the meringues 
 quickly off on paper, and harden in a gentle 
 oven, that they may retain their delicate white- 
 ness. Almonds are sometimes pounded and 
 mixed with the eggs and sugar. These are very 
 superior to the plain meringues, but they will 
 require more care in baking, and they will take 
 a longer time; they should be crisp, and only 
 lightly browned. Blanch and pound the 
 almonds. Time, twenty to thirty -minutes. 
 Probable post. Is. for this quantity. (See, also 
 Mebingueb.) 
 
ITA 
 
 330 
 
 ITA 
 
 ITALIAN PASTES. 
 
 Italy is famous for its various kinds of paste, 
 the best being made from the small Sicilian 
 wheat, which is harder, and contains more albu- 
 men than our northern wheats. Macaroni, 
 lasagni, vermicelli, are all of the same paste, 
 as are stars, rings, and other shapes. The 
 Genoese paste is made of the finest and whitest 
 flour, but every city has its paste manufactory. 
 The Neapolitan is of slightly coarser flour, but 
 when fresh is often preferred by cooks, as it is 
 more speedily dressed. The price of macaroni 
 is now much less than formerly, the Neapolitan 
 being only threepence per pound, and Genoese 
 fourpence per pound. In Italy, pastes of all 
 kinds are dressed in fowl or veal stock for the 
 better tables, and in beef or other bouillon for 
 the ordinary ones. Parmesan and Gruyere 
 cheese accompany the dish, but in England, on 
 account of the expense, home products, such as 
 Cheshire and Cheddar, may be substituted. 
 ITALIAN PIE. 
 
 Cut thin slices of veal from the fillet, and pre- 
 pare a careful seasoning of thyme, parsley, a 
 couple of sage-leaves, pepper (white and 
 cayenne), and salt. Cover, the bottom of the 
 pie-dish with the meat, strew the seasoning 
 over, and lay thin slices of ham, previously 
 cooked, upon the t6p. Distribute forcemeat- 
 balls throughout, and fill up the dish with 
 veal, ham, forcemeat-balls, and the yolks of 
 hard-boiled eggs. Pour in half a pint of rich 
 white stock before baking, and a large cup of 
 cream when the pie is ready for the table. 
 Cover the dish with a puff paste, put an orna- 
 ment in the centre, which can be removed to 
 put in the cream, and bake in a quick oven. 
 Two pounds of veal and five ounces of ham will 
 make a good pie. Time, an hour and a half to 
 bake. The above quantities are sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 ITALIAN POLENTA. 
 
 This is an Italian and American dish, made 
 from Indian cornflour in America and Italy, 
 but in England semolina is used for the pur- 
 pose. Four ounces will thicken a quart of 
 milk ; the semolina is stirred into it when the 
 milk is on the point of boiling, and simmered 
 for about ten minutes after. Throw the polenta 
 into a dish to get cold; cut it into slices, pow- 
 der it thickly with grated Parmesan, moisten it 
 with oil or clarified butter, and bake. Serve 
 quite hot, with more cheese on a separate dish. 
 Time, half an hour to bake. Probable cost, ex- 
 clusive of cheese, 5d. 
 
 ITALIAN POLPETTL 
 
 Grate two ounces of Parmesan cheese, and 
 mince finely half a pound of any cooked meat 
 without fat ; put these ingredients, together with 
 a slice of ham or tongue, into a stewpan ; add a 
 quarter of a pint of Italian sauce and two small 
 tea-spoonfuls of piquant sauce. Stir over the 
 fire until well heated throughout, then take out 
 the polpetti on a marble slab or large flat dish, 
 spread the paste (for such it will be) evenly to 
 about a quarter of an inch thick, and let it 
 get cold, when it is to be cut into small cakes 
 with a tin cutter. These are now to be egged, 
 bread-crumbed, and fried in boiling lard. Time, 
 ten minutes to fry. 
 
 ITALIAN POTAGE (Brown Soup). 
 
 Take any young vegetables in season — turnips, 
 carrots, celery, leeks, onions, etc. Slice three 
 or four onions, and fry them in butter with two 
 turnips, two carrots cut in ribbon-like strips, a 
 head of celery, and the white part of a leek in 
 inch pieces. Stew gently in the butter, letting 
 them colour slightly. Add good rich veal gravy, 
 salt to taste, and serve, when the vegetables are 
 tender, on grilled crusts, previously moistened 
 with a little of the gravy. Asparagus tops, 
 green peas, and young lettuces improve this 
 potage. Time, fry until the vegetables are 
 tender. 
 
 ITALIAN PUDDING. 
 
 Soak three sliced French rolls in a pint of 
 cream which has been boiled and sweetened with 
 loaf sugar. Beat up eight eggs, and add them 
 to the soaked rolls when cool. Line a well- 
 buttered dish with puff paste, the bottom of 
 which fill with sliced apples, leaving enough of 
 the dish empty to hold the cream. Strew sugar 
 and some sliced candied peel on the top of the 
 apples, add a glass of red wine, and, lastly, the 
 cream. Edge the dish with some of the puff 
 paste, and bake in a rather quick oven. Tune, 
 about half an hour. Probable cost, 3s. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 ITALIAN PUDDING, BOILED. 
 
 Get two stale rolls, grate the crumb into a 
 pint of milk, and boil it very carefully for ten 
 minutes. Pour it into a basin to_ cool. Mean- 
 while, beat the yolks of three eggs, add them to 
 the milk and crumbs, with nearly half a pound of 
 pounded sugar, a flavouring of vanilla, a few 
 currants or Malaga raisins, and, lastly, the 
 whites of the eggs whisked to a firm froth. This 
 pudding should be steamed. Pour the mixture 
 into a well-buttered basin, tie it down, and set 
 it in a saucepan with boiling water reaching to 
 half the height of the basin. Keep it boiling an 
 hour, and serve with wine, brandy, or rum sauce 
 poured over it. Probable cost. Is. 4d. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 ITALIAN ROLL. 
 
 Mix together half a pound of fine flour and 
 from' four to five ounces of sifted sugar. Put 
 into a clean saucepan half a pint of new milk 
 and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter ; bring 
 it to the boiling point, and stir in gradually the 
 flour and sugar. Beat well four fresh eggs, add 
 them with the grated rind of a lemon, stirring 
 until the mixture is thick like dough. Lay a 
 piece of well-greased paper on a baking-sheet, 
 spread the mixture on this about a quarter of 
 an inch thick. Bake till half done in the oven, 
 spread jam on the paste, and bake again. Serve 
 cold, whole or in slices of nearly an inch thick. 
 Time, twenty to twenty-five minutes to bake. 
 Probable cost. Is. 2d., exclusive of jam. 
 
 ITALIAN RUSKS. 
 
 Slice a stale, Savoy biscuit and divide the 
 slices into two pieces, which bake in a slow oven 
 until they are crisp and hard. Let them cool, 
 and put them in a dry place, and in a close tin 
 canister, to preserve their crispness. They 
 should be a nice brown when baked. Probable 
 cost, 3d. per dozen. Three cakes are enough for 
 one dozen rusks. 
 
ITA 
 
 331 
 
 IVO 
 
 ITALIAN SALAD. 
 
 Take as many varieties of cold yegetablea as 
 possible, sucli as new potatoes, sliced and cut 
 up into fancy shapes, green peas, asparagus tops, 
 French, beans, cauliflower, beetroot, etc. Dress 
 them with a lit'tle oil, tarragon vinegar, pepper, 
 and salt, and place them in a mould. Take some 
 aspic jelly, melt it, and pour it gently in the 
 mould so that it fills up all the interstices be- 
 tween the vegetables. When the jelly is quite 
 cold the vegetables can be turned out and sent 
 to table in the shape given them by the mould. 
 
 ITALIAN SALAD (another way). 
 
 Pile in the centre of a dish the white meat 
 picked from a cold chicken either roasted, boiled, 
 or fricasseed, and shred a little lean ham to 
 distribute equally amongst it. Teal also may 
 be used, cut in very thin slices about the size of 
 a shilling. Surround the meat with a wall of 
 young crisp lettuces, small cress, or any salad 
 vegetables in season. Boil some eggs hard, 
 remove the yolks, and cut the whites into thin 
 rings, which arrange in chains over the top. 
 Pour over the centre any salad sauce, in which 
 cream should predominate and serve at once, 
 that the salad may not get sodden. 
 
 ITALIAN SANDWICHES. 
 
 Beat up the yolk of an egg with nearly a 
 quarter of a pint of cold water, and make with 
 it into a stiff paste a quarter of a pound of 
 baked flour into which two ounces of good 
 butter have been rubbed, an ounce and a half of 
 sifted sugar, and as much cinnamon as will lie 
 on a shilling. Put this paste on a board and 
 roll it out very thin (it should not be quite ^a 
 quarter of an inch), divide it into strips of an 
 inch in width, and from three to four inches in 
 length. These strips must be first hardened. 
 Put them in a cool, well-ventilated place. In 
 the meantime prepare the following mixture. 
 Beat the whites of three eggs to a froth, with 
 two ounces of powdered loaf sugar. Blanch and 
 pound two ounces of sweet and twelve bitter 
 almonds, mix them with the egg-froth until it is 
 a soft smooth paste, when spread half the strips 
 of paste with the mixture, and cover with the 
 other half. Bake a pale brown. Time, four or 
 five hours to harden, sixteen to eighteen minutes 
 to bake. Probable cost. Is. 4d. 
 
 ' ITALIAN SAUCE. 
 
 Fry six mushrooms and two shallots, finely 
 minced, in an ounce of butter; when brown add 
 a quarter of a pint of good stock, and half a 
 pint of Spanish sauce. When the latter is not 
 at hand, take half a pint of stock, and a glass 
 of champagne or other light wine. Probable 
 cost, exclusive of wine. Is. Time to simmer, 
 after the stock is added, twenty minutes. The 
 above ingredients are sufficient to fill » sauce 
 tuL-een. 
 
 ITALIAN SAUCE FOR BOILED BEEF. 
 
 (See Beee', Boilbd, Itaman Sauce foe.) 
 ITALIAN SAUCE (Rouge et Blanche). 
 
 Put the following ingredients into a stewpan : 
 — Two spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, one of 
 parsley, half a shallot, the same of bay-leaf; 
 add pepper and salt to taste. Stew them gently, 
 with just enough Espagnole sauce to moisten 
 
 them, and thin to a proper consistency with 
 
 good strong broth. Strain for use. For sauce 
 
 blanche, moisten with veloute in the place of 
 
 Espagnole. 
 
 ITALIAN SAUCE, WHITE (another way). 
 
 Chop three shallots, a bit of garlic as big as a 
 pea, and as many button-mushrooms as will fill 
 a table-spoon twice. Put them with a breakfast- 
 cupful of stock into a stewpan, add a large slice 
 of ham, which should be minced, and simmer 
 over a slow fire. In about half an hour add a, 
 quarter of a pint of bechamel ; boil, , and strain. 
 Season with salt, half a tea-spoonful of sugar, 
 the same of vinegar, and a squeeze of lemon- 
 juice. The probable cost will be about lOd. 
 Sufficient for a dish. 
 
 ITALIAN SAUSAGE. 
 
 Mince two pounds of lean pork with one pound 
 of fat pork. Season the mixture with salt, 
 mixed spice, coriander seed, and bruised ani- 
 seed. When the irgredients are thoroughly 
 blended,moisten the mixture with pig's blood and 
 white wine sufficiently to bind it together, but 
 be careful not to render it too moist. Cut some 
 narrow strips from the best part of a calf's head, 
 mix these with the mince, and put the prepara- 
 tion into sausage-skins. Tie the ends securely, 
 plunge the sausages into boiling water, and boil 
 them gently until done enough. Afterwards dry 
 them in a smoke house, or in a chimney over 
 a wood fire, till they become hard. Time to 
 boil, half an hour. 
 
 ITALIAN STEAK. 
 
 Take two or three pounds of steak from the 
 rump or fillet — let it be quite an inch and a half 
 in thickness. Brown it in a stewpan with two 
 or three ounces of butter, turning it frequently 
 over a quick fire. When brown alike on both 
 sides, remove the steak to a baking-pan, with a 
 tight-fitting lid (earthenware pans are always 
 used for this purpose on the Continent), and fry 
 two medium-sized onions, sliced, a shallot, 
 minced, and a bunch of parsley in the same 
 butter. Spread this over the steak in the pan. 
 Add two large wine-glassfuls of port, and two 
 breakfast-cupfuls of stock, with a root of celery 
 cut into pieces, two pickled gherkins, four or 
 five cloves, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and salt 
 to taste. Cover down the lid tight, that no 
 steam may escape, and let it bake in the oven 
 nearly an hour and a half, when put in a turnip 
 and a carrot, whole, and close as before. If 
 the roots are young they will be done in half an 
 hour. Cut them into dice, and lay them over 
 the top of the steak, which should be placed on 
 a hot dish. Send to table with the gravy strained 
 over. Probable cost. Is. 4d. per pound. 
 
 IVORY DUST JELLY (Invalid Cookery). 
 
 Put a pound of ivory powder into three quarts 
 of cold water. Place it on a gentle fire, or in 
 the oven, and let it simmer slowly for four or 
 five hours, until the liquid is reduced more than 
 half. Put it aside,- and when quite cold and 
 stiff, lift off the jellied part, being careful to 
 leave the sediment untouched, and proceed as 
 recommended for calf's foot jelly (see Calf's 
 Foot Jbllt). Ivory jelly is excellent for con- 
 sumptive patients. Time, four or five hours to 
 simmer the ivory dust. Probable cost, lOd. per 
 
IVO 
 
 332 
 
 JAM 
 
 pound. The above ingredients are sufficient for 
 a pint and a, half of jelly. 
 
 IVORY JELLY (rnvalid Cookery). 
 
 Infuse six ounces of ivory powder in three 
 pints of cold water, and simmer them until the 
 liquid is reduced to half the quantity. Let it 
 get cold to jelly, and remove the sediment. 
 When wanted, warm it up, add a little cinnamon 
 or a few cloves, the juice and some of the rind 
 of a lemon, and sugar enough to sweeten. Let 
 the jelly dissolve slowly without reducing it 
 further. Strain for use. 
 
 JACK. 
 
 {See. Bottle-jack and Screen.) 
 
 JAMBON, CUTLETS AU. 
 
 {See Cutlets atj Jambon.) 
 JAM, GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON. 
 
 In making jams or preserves, care must be 
 taken first of all that the fruit is gathered on 
 a dry day, and when the morning sun is on the 
 garden. If gathered in damp or foggy weather 
 the jam will certainly become mouldy, and con- 
 sequently will not be worth the trouble and ex- 
 Sense of boiling. The fruit should be free from 
 ust, and any that is unsound should be cast 
 aside. It should be boiled as soon as possible 
 after it is gathered. 
 
 The best quality of sugar, either white or 
 brown, will be found the cheapest in the end. 
 White sugar should be shining and close in 
 appearance : brown sugar bright and gravelly. 
 'Hie inferior sugars throw up so much scum in 
 boiling that no saving is really effected. The 
 quantity of sugar required depends upon the 
 
 PBESEEVINO-PAN. 
 
 nature of the fruit, and particulars regard- 
 ing this will be given with each recipe. As there 
 is no economy in using inferior sugar, there is 
 also no economy in'using too little sugar. The 
 only result of endeavouring to save in this way 
 is that the jam has to be boiled so much the 
 longer, and thus the quantity is reduced; to 
 say nothing of the expenditure of fuel. If, on 
 the contrary, too much sugar is used, the flavour 
 of the fruit will be lost. In making common 
 jams, the fruit should be well boiled before the 
 sugar is added, and care should be taken that it 
 is not so much thickened that the sugar will not 
 easily dissolve. The fruits which are most suit- 
 able to be preserved whole in syrup are apricots, 
 apples, cherries, greengages, peaches, nectarines, 
 plums, and pears. The recipe for each will be 
 found in this work in its proper place. Sugar 
 should never be reduced to powder before it is 
 
 added to the fruit, or it will give the jam a 
 turbid appearance. The scum should be care- 
 fully removed as it rises. In order to prevent 
 waste it may be strained through fine muslin, 
 and the clear part which runs through returned 
 to the preserving-pan. 
 
 Wooden spoons should be used for stirring 
 jam. Iron, tin, or pewter ones will spoil the 
 colour. 
 
 An enamelled saucepan is the best for making 
 jam. If a brass preserving-pan is used, it should 
 be scrupulously clean, bright, and dry. The 
 pan should be raised a few inches above the fire. 
 If placed flat on it the fruit will be in danger 
 of burning. The flavour and colour will be best 
 preserved if the fruit is boiled rapidly. It 
 should be watched constantly and stirred fre- 
 quently during the process of boiling. 
 
 Home-made jam, when properly prepared and 
 well preserved, is incomparably superior to that 
 which is offered for sale. 
 
 A. list of recipes for preparing a great variety 
 of jams will be found under that heading in the 
 classified index at end of volume. 
 
 JAM, IMITATION. 
 
 Cut off the yellow rind from a large fresh 
 lemon, being careful not to take any of the 
 white. Mince it as finely as possible, and put 
 it with half a pint of the best treacle, the 
 strained juice of the lemon, and a well-beaten 
 egg into a saucepan, and boil gently for a few 
 minutes, stirring all the time. When cold it is 
 ready for use, and may be employed instead of 
 jam for roly-poly puddings. If put into a jar, 
 and the air excluded, it will remain good for 
 some time. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for a 
 pudding large enough for six or eight persons. 
 
 JAM, MIXED, FOR NURSERY USE. 
 
 Take equal weights of any fruit that is in 
 season, such as gooseberries, red or black cur- 
 rants, raspberries, or cherries. Boil them gently 
 for half an hour, then weigh the fruit, and put 
 half a pound of sugar to every pound of pulp 
 and boil twenty minutes longer. When cherries 
 are used they must be boiled twenty minutes 
 alone before the other fruit is added to them. 
 This jam will not keep more than two or three 
 months. Probable cost, 6d. per pound. 
 
 JAM, MIXED, SUPERIOR. 
 
 Take equal measures of fruit, black cherries 
 picked and stoned, black currants, and rasp- 
 berries. Boil the cherries twenty minutes first, 
 then add the currants and raspberries, with a 
 pint and a. half of red currant juice to every 
 three pounds of fruit. Boil until the fruit is 
 broken, then add one pound of sugar tp every 
 pint of fruit, and boil gently for half an hour. 
 Skim carefully, pour the jam into jars, and cover 
 in the usual way. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. 
 
 JAM OMELET. 
 
 Beat four eggs, and mix with them a tea- 
 spoonful of moist sugar, a pinch of salt, and a 
 table-spoonful of milk. Make an omelet-pan 
 quite hot — the best way to do this is to put it 
 on the fire with a little fat, and whe;n this boils 
 pour it off, and wipe the pan dry — put two ounces 
 of fat or oil into the pan, and when it begins to 
 bubble pour in the eggs, etc., and keep stirring 
 them with a spoon until lightly set. Let them 
 
JAM 
 
 333 
 
 •JAM 
 
 remain a minute, until the omelet is browned ou 
 one side, then turn it on a hot dish, spread a 
 little jam in the middle, fold the edges over on 
 each side, sift a little sugar over, and serve as 
 quickly as possible. Time, five or six minutes 
 to fry the omelet. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient 
 for three persons. 
 
 JAM PATTIES. 
 
 Eub two ounces of fresh butter into a quarter' 
 of a pound of dried and sifted flour. Add a 
 pinch of salt and a, salt-spoonful of sugar, and 
 moisten with the yolk of an egg, beaten up with 
 two table-spoonfuls of cold water. Roll the 
 paste out twice, and each time spread an ounce 
 of butter on it. Dredge a little flour over it, 
 fold it up in a, roll, and let it stand in a. cool 
 place for an hour or two. Before making it up 
 roll it out once or twice, and the last time leave 
 it the thickness of half an inch, then stamp it 
 out in fourteen small rounds, and with a smaller 
 cutter stamp again quite through six of them, 
 leaving a ring three-quarters of an inch wide. 
 Lay a pastry ring on each perfect round, first 
 moistening it a little with water to make it 
 adhere securely. Bake the patties in a quick 
 oven, fill them while warm with jam, and put 
 on the top a small ornament, which has been 
 lightly baked with the patties. Time, ten 
 minutes to bake the patties. Probable cost, IJd. 
 each. Sufficient for six patties. 
 
 JAM PUFFS, OR TURNOVERS. 
 
 Make some good puff paste or short crust (see 
 Jam Patties) ; roll it out to the eighth of an 
 inch in thickness, then stamp it out in rounds ' 
 with a saucer or plate, or into squares. Spread 
 a little jam on half the pastry, wet the edges, 
 and turn the other half quite over. Press the 
 edges neatly together, and bake in a quick oven. 
 Time, about twenty minutes to bake. Probable 
 cost, IJd. each. 
 
 JAM PUDDING. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of flour, a quarter 
 of a pound of bread-crumbs, two ounces of suet, 
 a table-spoonful of sugar, and a tea-spoonful of 
 baking powder; mix all together to a stiff paste 
 with cold water, and roll out very thin. Grease 
 a pudding basin, line it with the pastry, spread 
 some jam on the bottom, place a layer of pastry 
 over it, and so on in alternate layers till the 
 basin is full. Cover with greased paper, and 
 steam for three hours. Turn out, and serve with 
 custard sauce. 
 
 JAM ROLY-POLY PUDDING. 
 
 Shred five or six ounces of beef suet very 
 finely; mix with it one pound of flour, add a 
 pinch of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of baking- 
 powder. Make it up into a firm paste with cold, 
 water; then roll it out to the thickness of a. 
 quarter of an inch, wet the edges all round, and 
 spread half a pound of jam over the pastry. 
 Roll it to the shape of a bolster, fasten the 
 edges securely, and put the pudding into a 
 floured cloth. Tie it at both ends, put it into 
 boiling water without bending it, and let it boil 
 quickly for about two hours. Send melted butter 
 to table in a tureen. Imitation jam (see Jam, 
 Imitation) .makes a good pudding for the nur- 
 sery. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for four 
 persons.' 
 
 JAM SANDWICHES. 
 
 Mix the jolka of two eggs very smoothly with 
 a table-spoonful of flour and a table-spoonful 
 of ground rice, add a very small pinch of salt, 
 a table-spoonful of sugar, half a pint of thick 
 cream, and a quarter of a pint of new milk. 
 Beat the whites of the eggs to a firm froth, add 
 them last of all, and beat the mixture for four 
 or five minutos. Butter two large plates, put 
 in the mixture, «nd bake in a quick oven until 
 it is set and lightly browned. Spread a little 
 jam over one of the cakes and lay the other upon 
 it, the browned jpart uppermost. Sift a little 
 sugar over it before serving. Jam sandwiches 
 may be eaten either hot or cold. Time, twenty 
 minutes to bake. Probable cost. Is. 4d. Suf- 
 ficient for three or four persons. 
 JAM TART, OPEN. 
 
 Make some pastry, as directed for Jam Pat- 
 ties, or as follows. Rub six ounces of butter 
 into the same quantity of dried and sifted flour. 
 Add a pinch of salt, half a tea-spoonful of 
 baking-powder, a tea-spoonful of pounded sugar, 
 and make it up into a smooth paste with the 
 yolk of an egg beaten up with a little cold water 
 (about a quarter of a pint will be required). 
 JRoU out the pastry to the thickness of a quarter 
 of an inch. Butter an ornamented tart-pan and 
 line .t with the pastry. Trim the edges neatly, 
 and prick a few holes in the bottom with a fork. 
 Bake in a moderate oven until lightly browned, 
 then take the tart out, let it cool a little, spread 
 the jam on it, and ornament the top with a few 
 leaves or stars of pastry which have been baked 
 separately. Time, about half an hour to bake. 
 Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 JAM TARTS. 
 
 Make some pastry, as directed for Jam Pat- 
 TiBS. Butter a dozen patty-pans, and line them 
 with the pastry rolled out to a quarter of an inch 
 in thickness. Put them into a quick oven, and 
 when nearly baked take them out and put a 
 little jam in the centre of each, then return 
 them to the oven and finish baking. An orna- 
 ment already baked should be placed upon each, 
 or a little whipped cream. Time, a few minutes 
 to bake. Probable cost, IJd. each. Sufficient 
 for eight tarts. 
 
 JAM, TO KEEP. 
 
 Pour the jam into perfectly sound dry bottles 
 or jars. Glass bottles are the best, as through 
 them any mould or fermentation can be easily 
 perceived without removing the cover. If 
 earthenware jars are used the jam should be 
 looked at once or twice during the first two 
 months, and if there is any appearance of the 
 jam not keeping, it should be gently rebelled. 
 Place a round of thin paper dipped in brandy 
 on the top of the jam. Gut some rounds of 
 paper sufficiently large to overlap the top of the 
 jar about an inch. Brush the inside with beaten 
 white of egg or with a little gum, and tie it on 
 whilst wet. It will become hard and tight like 
 the skin of a drum, and will thoroughly exclude 
 the air. A neat label should be placed on the 
 front of all jars containing jam, and on this 
 should be written the day of the month and 
 year on which the jam was made, and the weight 
 of sugar and fruit used in its preparation. Jam 
 
JAR 
 
 334 
 
 JEL 
 
 should be kept in a cool, dry place. Damp may 
 turn it mouldy, heat make it ferment. 
 
 JARDINIERE. 
 
 This is a garnish made of cooked vegetables, 
 which gives its name to the dish with which it 
 is served. Thus, fillet of beef a la jardiniere, 
 mutton a la jardiniere, goose a la jardiniere, 
 simply mean fillet of beef, mutton, and goose 
 served with a, garnish a la jardiniere. To pre- 
 pare this garnish, peel two or three sound carrots 
 and turnips, and turn or shape them in fanciful 
 forms of equal size. This is most easily done 
 with a vegetable scoop made for the purpose. 
 Two ounces of French beans cut into diamonds 
 should be added, a cauliflower divided into 
 sprigs, two ounces of green peas, two ounces of 
 asparagus tops cut up into small pieces, and a 
 few brussels sprouts. Cook all the vegetables 
 first in a little broth nicely flavoured with 
 pepper, salt, and sugar. Take them out when 
 they are rather underdone, so that they shall 
 not break when dished ; drain them thoroughly, 
 put them into a saucepan with a table-spoonful 
 of lightly-coloured glaze, and shake them for 
 two or three minutes over the fire. Take them 
 up, and arrange them round the dish as effec- 
 tively as possible. This is generally best done 
 by raising the meat in the centre and putting 
 the vegetables round it. 
 JARDINIERE SOUP.- 
 
 Scrape three sound carrots and the same 
 number of turnips, and turn them into any fanci- 
 ful shapes of an equal size with a French vege- 
 table scoop. Put them into a stewpan with a 
 dozen button onions, two or three leaves of 
 lettuce, tarragon, and chervil, and a head of 
 celery cut as nearly as possible the same size 
 as the turnips and carrots. Pour over them two 
 quarts of nicely-seasoned clear stock, and simmer 
 gently until the vegetables are tender. A small 
 lump of sugar is an improvement. Taste the 
 soup before sending it to table, in order to ascer- 
 tain if further seasoning is required, and serve 
 as hot as possible. Time, about an hour and a 
 half. Probable cost, 4d. per quart, exclusive of 
 the stock. Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 JARGONELLE PEARS, TO BAKE. 
 
 Pare, core, and divide four large pears into 
 quarters. Weigh them, and put them into a 
 baking-dish with their weight in sugar, as much 
 cold water as will barely cover them, three or 
 four drops of cochineal, four cloves, and the thin 
 rind of half a lemon. Put them into a moderate 
 oven and bake them until they are tender, but 
 be careful not to let them break. Lift the pears 
 carefully into a glass dish, boil the sauce two 
 or three minutes, strain it, and pour it over the 
 fruit. A glass of sweet wine may be added or 
 not. If a little isinglass or gelatine is dis- 
 solved in the hot syrup, it will when cold form 
 a jelly round the pears, and make a pretty dish. 
 Time, one hour or more to bake. Probable cost, 
 8d., exclusive of the isinglass. Sufficient for 
 three or four persons. 
 
 JARGONELLE PEARS, TO PRESERVE. 
 
 Gather the pears before they are fully ripe. 
 Pare them as thinly as possible, cut out the 
 black tops, and pick out the seeds. Weigh the 
 fruit, and simmer it very gently until it ia quite 
 
 tender, but unbroken; then drain it, and make 
 a syrup of one pound of sugar and half a pint of 
 water to every pound of pears. Let this boil 
 for five or six minutes, remove the scum as it 
 rises, put in the pears and simmer them in the 
 syrup five minutes longer. Lift out carefully, 
 and put them to stand in a dish with the syrup, 
 which must entirely cover them, for two days. 
 Then put them again into the pan, and simmer 
 them until they are clear, but they must not 
 break; if a little lemon-rind is simmered with 
 the syrup it will improve the flavour, and two 
 or three drops of cochineal will improve the 
 colour. Put the fruit into jars, pour the syrup 
 over it, and cover securely. When wanted the 
 pears may either be served in the syrup or dried 
 in a cool oven. Time, three days. Probable 
 cost, pears, 3d. per pound. 
 
 JARGONELLE PEARS, TO PRESERVE (another 
 way). 
 Prepare the pears as in the last recipe. When 
 they are pared, cored, and weighed, put them 
 into a saucepan, with vine leaves under and 
 over them; cover them with cold water, and 
 simmer them gently for half an hour. Drain 
 them, and make a syrup, allowing one pound 
 of sugar to every pound of fruit, and half a 
 pint of water to every pound and a half of sugar, 
 with one ounce of ginger, and the rind and juice 
 of half a lemon. Boil this syrup for ten minutes, 
 put in the pears, and let them simmer a quarter 
 of an hour. Lift them out carefully, boil the 
 syrup ten minutes longer, and when cold pour 
 it over the pears. Cover them closely, and in 
 three days boil the syrup ten minutes again, 
 and repeat this twice, three days being allowed 
 to elapse between each boiling. The pears must 
 be entirely covered with the syrup while they 
 are soaking. Put a clove in each pear. Put the 
 fruit in a deep jar, pour the syrup over it, cover 
 closely to exclude the air, and keep in a cool, 
 dry place. Probable cost of pears, 3d. per pound. 
 
 JEJUNE PUDDING. > 
 
 Take in sugar, butter, and flour, the weight of 
 four eggs with their shells on, beat the butter 
 to a cream, and mix with it the powdered sugar, 
 the thin rind of a fresh lemon finely minced, the 
 eggs thoroughly whisked, and, last of all, the 
 fiour; beat all thoroughly until quite light. 
 This pudding may be either baked or boiled. If 
 baked, half fill some small moulds, well but- 
 tered, with the mixture, and bake in a quick 
 oven. Turn out before serving. If boiled, pour 
 the mixture into a well-buttered plain round 
 mould, put a buttered paper over the top, tie 
 it in a cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and 
 boil for an hour and a half. A syrup flavoured 
 with lemon, and slightly coloured with cochi- 
 neal; may be poured into the dish with the pud- 
 ding. Time, half an hour to bake the pudding. 
 Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 JELLY, GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON TABLE. 
 
 Jelly is most frequently made from calf's foot 
 stock, isinglass, or gelatine. When made from 
 the first of these, it is very wholesome and nutri- 
 tious, and is especially suited for convalescents. 
 When isinglass and gelatine are used, many 
 agreeable and pleasing dishes may be made for 
 the table, but these should never be offered to 
 
JEL 
 
 335 
 
 JEL 
 
 an invalid. As the jelly which is sold by con- 
 fectioners is almost always made of isinglass, 
 calf's foot jelly should, if possible, be made at 
 home. Careful attention paid to the directions 
 given under the heading. Gale's Foot Jbllt, 
 will ensure a perfectly transparent jelly, and 
 for this result once straining will generally be 
 found sufficient, though, of course, if necessary, 
 it must be strained more than once. 
 . Eecipes for preparing a great variety of jellies 
 will be found under their proper headings, a 
 list of which is given -in the classified index at 
 end of volume. 
 
 JELLY (^ la Bacchante). 
 
 Take one pound of muscatel grapes, pick 
 them from their stalks, and reserve sixteen or 
 eighteen of the finest to set in the jelly. Put 
 the remainder in a bowl, and crush them with a 
 wooden spoon to extract the juice. Take an 
 enamelled saucepan, and put into it three- 
 quarters of a pint of hot water, one ounce of 
 isinglass, the rind of half a lemon, the juice of 
 a whole lemon, and four ounces of sugar, and 
 simmer for ten minutes. Then take it off the 
 fire, and let it cool for five minutes. Beat the 
 whites and shells of two eggs in a wine-glass- 
 ful of wateri add the crushed grapes and their 
 juice, and stir this into the contents of the 
 saucepan. Replace on the fire, and stir till it 
 simmers. Take out the spoon, and let it boil 
 gently for ten minutes. Strain through a jelly- 
 bag until clear and bright. Before it begins to 
 jellify, pour in a pint bottle of champagne. 
 Have ready a well-wetted mould with knobs. 
 Put a grape into each knob, and pour in suf- 
 ficient jelly to cover them. Set on ice, and as 
 soon as firm, fill the mould with the remaining 
 jelly. Set on ice for two hours before serving. 
 
 JELLY-BAGS. 
 
 Jelly-bags are much the strongest and best 
 when made at home. The strong flannel used 
 for ironing-blankets is the best for this purpose, 
 and' it should be made of a half-square, and sewn 
 
 JELLY-BAG. 
 
 at the side with a double seam, so as to be wide 
 at the top, and pointed at the bottom. The top 
 may be hemmed, and three tape loops sewn to 
 it, by which the bag maV be suspended when in 
 use. A jelly-bag should always be wrung dry 
 out of hot water before the liquid is poured into 
 it. 
 
 JELLY, BOTTLED, TO MOULD. 
 
 When it is wanted quickly, jelly ready made 
 and beautifully transparent may be bought in 
 
 bottles. In order to mould it, uncork the 
 bottle, and stand it in boiling water. Let it 
 remain until the jelly can be poured out of the 
 bottle. Flavour it according to taste, but do 
 not add very much liquid, or it may interfere 
 with the firmness of the jelly. Pour it into damp 
 moulds, and put it in a cool place, to become 
 stiff again. Time, a few minutes to dissolve; 
 some hours to become firm again. Probable 
 cost, from Is. to Is. 6d. per pint. 
 
 JELLY BREAD (Invalid Cookery). 
 
 Remove the crust from a penny roll. Cut the 
 crumb into thin slices, and toast these to a 
 bright brown on each side. Put them into a 
 saucepan with a quart of cold spring water, and 
 siramer gently until the liquid will jelly, which 
 point may be known by putting a little on one 
 side to cool. Strain through muslin, sweeten, 
 and flavour with wine and lemon-juice, if per- 
 mitted. Time, an hour and a half to two hours. 
 Probable cost, 2d., exclusive of the wine. Suf- 
 ficient for one person. 
 
 JELLY, COFFEE. 
 
 Soak a quarter of an ounce of gelatine in half 
 a gill of cold water for half an hour; then pour 
 on it half a pint of boiling water, and add two 
 ounces of sugar, one gill of strong coffee, and 
 half a tea-spoonful of vanilla. Strain through a 
 napkin into a glass dish. Stand it in a refrigera- 
 tor, or any cool place, until firm. Serve with 
 cream and sugar. Or the jelly may be moulded, 
 and served with whipped cream arranged round 
 the shape. 
 
 JELLY, CREAM. 
 
 Put three pints of water into a saucepan with 
 a quarter of a pound of hartshorn-shavings, and 
 boil gently until the liquid will jelly. This 
 may be easily ascertained by taking a little in 
 a spoon, and letting it get cold. When suffi- 
 ciently boiled, strain it, and add half a pint of 
 cream, two table-spoonfuls of rose or orange- 
 flower water, two table-spoonfuls of sherry, and 
 two ounces of sifted sugar. Boil all" together 
 gently for five minutes, stirring all the time, to 
 prevent the mixture curdling. When cool, poiir 
 it into a damp mould, turn it out as soon as it 
 is stiff, and pour oyer it half a pint of cream, 
 flavoured according- to taste. Time, about three 
 hours to simmer the shavings. Sufficient for a 
 quart mould. 
 
 JELLY CUSTARD. 
 
 Put a pint of new milk into a saucepan, 
 sweeten and flavour according to taste, and when 
 it is lukewarm, pour it over the yolks of six 
 well-beaten fresh eggs .Stir the mixture over the 
 fire until it is thick, but it must not boil; then 
 add an ounce of dissolved isinglass. Wet half a 
 dozen small moulds of different sizes in water, 
 pour in the custard, and when firnily set turn 
 out the moulds, arrange them prettily on a dish, 
 and pour over them a syrup fiavoured with 
 lemon-peel, and coloured with two or three drops 
 of cochineal. Time, half an hour to prepare. 
 Probable cost. Is. lOd. Sufficient for five oi 
 six persons. 
 
 JELLY-CUSTARD TARTLETS. 
 
 Dissolve two table-spoonfuls of strawberry or 
 red currant jelly over the fire. Let it get quite 
 
JEL 
 
 336 
 
 J EL 
 
 cool, then mix with it gradually three well- 
 beaten eggs. Three-parts fill some tartlet-tins, 
 lined with puff paste, and bake in a quick oven 
 for ten minutes. Probable cost, 2d. each. 
 Sufficient for half a dozen tartlets. 
 
 JELLY, EGG. 
 
 Rub six ounces of loaf sugar on the rinds of 
 two lemons, squeeze out the juice of the 
 lemons, and add water to make it up to a pint. 
 Beat two eggs and put into- a saucepan with 
 the lemon-juice, sugar, and a one-ounce sheet 
 of gelatine. Put on the fire, and whisk until 
 almost but not quite boiling. Strain, set in 
 little moulds until firm, turn out, and serve. 
 
 JELLY, FANCY. 
 
 A variety of pretty-looking dishes may be 
 made with jelly, either by using different 
 colours, and allowing one colour to become per- 
 fectly firm before another colour is added, or 
 by using the fancy moulds which are now so 
 generally made. In these dishes very much de- 
 pends upon the taste of the cook. A piece of 
 cardboard may be cut out to fit the middle of 
 the mould very closely, and different-coloured 
 jellies poured in at each side. Or a layer of 
 one colour may be poured in, and allowed to 
 become quite cold before another is added, and 
 thus the mould be filled. This plan requires 
 some time. When the mould is made with 
 hollow balls at the top, as is frequently the 
 case, a pretty effect may be produced by filling 
 those balls only with a bright-coloured jelly, 
 and when they are firmly set, adding the rest 
 uncoloured. Another way is to half fill the 
 mould with blancmange, when this is set to pour 
 over it a thin layer of jelly, and afterwards fill 
 up with blancmange again. When there are 
 any remains of different-coloured jellies they 
 should be put into one mould, and a little clear 
 jelly, quite cold, and nearly set, poured over 
 them. The fancy of the cook will doubtless 
 suggest endless varieties for these dishes. 
 JELLY, FESTIVE. 
 
 This makes a pretty party dish, and is always 
 appreciated. Any kind of fruit may be used, 
 but preserved pears or peaches are most 
 delicious. Dissolve two ounces of gelatine in 
 a pint of cold water, stir thoroughly, and 
 sweeten to taste; then flavour with a few drops 
 of vanilla. Put into a saucepan, add half a 
 pint of cold water, and the well-beaten white 
 of an egg. Let it come to the boil, and remove 
 any scum as it rises, stirring so that it does 
 not stick to the bottom. Rinse out a mould 
 with cold water, put in as many pears or 
 peaches as required, then pour in the jelly, and 
 leave till set. Serve with whipped cream. 
 JELLY FISH. 
 
 Make a quart of jelly according to the direc- 
 tions given for Jelly Meat for Cold Pies. 
 If at hand, the head and trimmings of turbot, 
 whiting, or skate may be stewed with the calf's 
 foot, but they are not indispensable. Pass the 
 jellj; through the tamis until quite clear, and 
 clarify it, if necessary, with the beaten whites 
 and crushed shells of four eggs. Pour a layer 
 of the jelly, about an inch in depth, into a wet 
 mould, and when it is firmly set arrange some 
 prawns or crayfish round the edges, and add the 
 
 remainder of the jelly. The fish must be put 
 into the jelly -backs downward, as it must be 
 remembered that their position will be reversed 
 when turned out. Time, about three hours to 
 set each layer. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient 
 for six or seven persons. 
 JELLY FOR PIES, TO CLARIFY. 
 
 Jelly for pies should be made bright and 
 clear in the same way as calf's foot jelly — that 
 is, it should be allowed to get cold, and then 
 every particle of fat should be removed, the 
 sediment which settles at the bottom of the pan 
 being left undisturbed, and the jelly should be 
 mixed thoroughly, when cold, with the whites 
 and shells of eggs, two eggs being used for 
 every pint of jelly. The contents of the sauce- 
 pan must not be stirred after they once begin 
 to heat, and they must boil a few minutes, and 
 afterwards stand by the side of the fire for a 
 few minutes, to settle, before the scum is re- 
 moved, and the jelly strained. If the meat be 
 slowly boiled, jelly will seldom require clarify- 
 ing with white of egg, but it should always be 
 made the day before it is wanted, so that the 
 fat and sediment may be effectually removed. 
 Time, ten minutes to boil the jelly, and a 
 quarter of an hour to let it settle. 
 
 JELLY FOR THE SICK (Invalid Cookery). 
 
 Care should be taken in making jelly for in- 
 valids to ascertain whether or not wine and 
 lemon-juice are allowed before putting them 
 into the stock. Generally speaking, any very 
 decided flavour is objected to, and sugar should 
 be sparingly used, as sweetness cloys a delicate 
 appetite. As, however, the acid and sugar 
 materially assist the clearing of the jelly, it 
 would be well, when these cannot be admitted, 
 to add the white and shell of another egg. In 
 this case, therefore, three instead of two eggs 
 should be put with every pint of stock. Change 
 of diet is very desirable for invalids. A pleas- 
 ing variety may be made by making the jelly 
 savoury instead of sweet. This can be done by 
 stewing with the feet an onion, a dozen pepper- 
 corns, and a blade of mace. If a pound of the 
 shin of beef be added to this, a very nourishing 
 jelly will be produced. Time, five or six hours 
 to stew. Probable cost of feet, 9d. to Is. each. 
 Two feet will make a quart of jelly. 
 
 JELLY, FOUR-FRUIT. 
 
 (See FoTJB-FBUiT Jellt.) 
 
 JELLY, FRENCH. 
 
 Make a wine jelly (see Madeiba Wine Jelly;, 
 and before it begins to thicken pour into it a 
 pint of carefully picked and cleaned raspberries, 
 distributing them evenly through the liquid; 
 then put it on ice or in a cool place to harden. 
 Serve with sugar and cream. 
 
 JELLY IN ORANGE-SKINS. 
 
 Take four large sound oranges. Cut out a 
 round about an inch in diameter from the stalk 
 end, and scoop out the contents of the orange 
 very thoroughly with a tea-spoon. Throw the 
 skins into cold water for two or three hours, to 
 harden them, and meanwhile make the juice as 
 clear as possible by straining it through a jelly- 
 bag. Add an ounce of isinglass dissolved in as 
 little water as possible, and a quarter of a 
 
JEL 
 
 337 
 
 JEL 
 
 pound of loaf sugar, and strain the jelly again 
 until it is quite clear. Take out the skins, let 
 them drain, and if inadvertently any holes have 
 been made, fill them up with butter. Put the 
 jelly into the orange-skins, and when they are 
 quite cold, cut them into quarters with a sharp 
 knife, pile them on a napkin, and garnish them 
 prettily with bright green leaves. The appear- 
 ance of the fruit is much improved if the oranges 
 are filled with different-coloured jellies, but 
 when this is done, one colour must become firm 
 before the next is added. Probable cost, 2b. 
 Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 JELLY, ISINGLASS CLARIFIED FOR. 
 
 Put an ounce of isinglass into an enamelled 
 saucepan with half a pint of water. Bring it 
 slowly to a boil, then draw the pan to the side 
 of the fire, and simmer gently for half an hour, 
 being careful to stir the isinglass constantly, to 
 prevent it sticking. Remove the scum as it 
 rises, and put it on a, sieve which has been 
 moistened with boiling water. A little clear 
 jelly may drain from it, and this may be added 
 to the isinglass. A tea-spoonful of cold water 
 should be put in two or three times to assist 
 the scum in rising. When the jelly is required 
 exceedingly transparent, a tea-spoonful of 
 beaten white of egg may be added to the water 
 in which the isinglass is dissolved, but when 
 this is done, a little more isinglass should be 
 allowed, as the white of egg has a tendency to 
 weaken it. An ounce of isinglass is usually 
 considered necessary for a pint of juice. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 2d. per ounce. Sufficient, half a 
 pint of water for an ounce of isinglass. 
 
 JELLY, LIQUEUR. 
 
 This jelly may be made with maraschino, 
 noyau, Cura9oa, or any other liqueur. Dissolve 
 two ounces of best Eussian isinglass in a pint 
 of water, being careful to remove the scum as it 
 rises, add a pound of loaf sugar, which has been 
 boiled to a syrup with half a pint of water, and 
 also carefully skimmed, the strained juice of a 
 lemon, and a quarter of a pint of liqueur. Mix 
 thoroughly, pour the jelly through a tamis into 
 a damp mould, and set it in ice until wanted for 
 use. If the jelly be very stiff the mould should 
 be dipped for a moment in boiling water before 
 turning it upon the dish. Time, half an hour 
 to clarify the isinglass, ten minutes to clarify the 
 sugar. Probable cost, exclusive of the liqueur, 
 2s. 8d. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. 
 
 JELLY, MEAT, FOR COLD PIES. 
 
 Scald and prepare a calf's foot, and put it into 
 a stewpan with half a, pound of the knuckle of 
 a leg or shoulder of veal, two shallots, a small 
 bunch of savoury herbs, an onion with two 
 cloves stuck in it, a lump of sugar, and the 
 thin rind of half a lemon, a tea-spoonful of salt, 
 half a tea-spoonful of cayenne, and three quarts 
 of cold spring water. Bring the liquid to a boil, 
 remove the scum carefully as it rises, and sim- 
 mer gently for five or six hours. Eun the jelly 
 through a bag, and let it stand aside until cold. 
 Take away the sediment and the fat, and pour 
 the gravy into the pie through an opening in the 
 cover. The flavour of this jelly should be varied 
 with the dish for which it is required. If for a 
 chicken-and-ham pie, the neck, bones, and trim- 
 
 W 
 
 mings cf the chicken should be stewed with the 
 gravy, together with half a pound of lean, 
 uncooked ham, or the rind of bacon soaked, 
 scraped, and cut small. If for hare or game pie, 
 the bones and trimmings of the hare or game 
 should be used. Sufficient for three pints of 
 gravy. Probable cost. Is. 8d. 
 
 JELLY, MEAT, FOR PIES (economical). 
 
 Soak about an ounce of gelatine in a little 
 cold water. Let it swell. Mix half a tea- 
 spoonful of Bovril with a pint of boiling water, 
 and put it into a saucepan with a shallot, a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, half a dozen peppercorns, a 
 clove, the very thin rind of a quarter of a 
 lemon, and a dessert-spoonful of tarragon vine- 
 gar. Simmer gently until the flavouring is ex- 
 tracted, add the gelatine, and when this is dis- 
 solved, strain the liquid through a bag, add a 
 wine-glassful of white wine, if approved, and 
 put the jelly aside to set. Cut it into dice or 
 use it as required. Time, forty minutes to 
 simmer the gravy. Probable cost, 5d., ex- 
 clusive of the wine. Sufficient for a pint and a 
 half of jelly. 
 
 JELLY, MEAT, FOR PIES (superior). 
 
 Take a pound and a half of the knuckle or 
 neck of veal and half a pound of the shin of 
 beef. Cut them into small pieces, and put them 
 into a saucepan with a quarter of a pint of good 
 beef stock; simmer gently for half an hour, 
 then add two pints more stock, and also a 
 shallot, three ounces of uncooked lean ham, a 
 quarter of a tea-cupful of bruised celery-seed 
 tied in muslin, a clove, a small bunch of 
 savoury herbs, and half a dozen peppercorns. 
 Simmer slowly for three or four hours, or until 
 the liquid will jelly. If quickly boiled, the jelly 
 will not be so clear. Strain the gravy, add salt 
 if required, and put it aside until quite cold, 
 so that the fat may be entirely removed. Prob- 
 able cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for a pint and a 
 half of jelly. 
 
 JELLY, MEAT USED IN STOCK FOR. 
 
 A good breakfast or luncheon dish may be 
 made of the meat from the feet which have been 
 stewed for stock. Take away the bones, and 
 cut the meat into neat pieces, season them with 
 salt and cayenne, and a little pounded mace. 
 Press them into a mould, pour over them a little 
 of the jelly, and when cold turn out in a shape. 
 Garnish according to taste. Time, a quarter of 
 an hour to prepare. Probable cost. Id. or 2d. 
 Sufficient for two or three persons, if made from 
 the remains of two feet. 
 
 JELLY MOULp. 
 
 (iSee Illustration accompanying the notice of 
 Apple Calf's Foot Jellt.) 
 
 jelly, open, with whipped cream. 
 
 Prepare a pint and a half of perfectly trans- 
 parent jelly, either calf's foot, isinglass, or 
 gelatine ; colour it, if liked, with two or three 
 drops of cochineal, . and put it into a damp 
 mould made with an opening in the centre on 
 purpose for dishes of this description. When 
 the jelly is firmly set, have ready three-quarters 
 of a pint of whipped cream nicely flavoured and 
 sweetened. Pile this in the opening as high as 
 possible, and it is ready to serve. 
 
JEL 
 
 338 
 
 JER 
 
 JELLY PUDDING. 
 
 Soak the thin rind of a fresh lemon in two 
 table-spoonfnls of spring water for half an hour. 
 While it is soaking, beat five ounces of fresh 
 butter to a cream, add four ounces of pounded 
 and sifted sugar, and, very gradually, the yolks 
 of three eggs, well beaten. Line a small pie- 
 dish with good puff paste. When it is time for 
 the pudding to be baked, mix with it the 
 strained lemon-water, and the whites of the 
 eggs, beaten to a solid froth, and bake in a quick 
 oven. Time, twenty minutes to bake. Prob- 
 able cost, lOd. Suificient for three persons. 
 
 JELLY, RICE. 
 
 Mix four ounces of rice-flour smoothly and 
 gradually with a quart of cold milk; put this 
 into a saucepan with a quarter of an ounce of 
 clarified isinglass, the thin rind of half a lemon, 
 four bitter almonds, blanched and pounded, and 
 four ounces of sugar. Boil and stir briskly until 
 quite thick. Take out the lemon-rind, and pour 
 the mixture into a damp mould. When it is 
 firmly set, turn it on a glass dish, pour melted 
 currant jelly, or any fruit syrup, round it, and 
 6end a jug of cream to table with it. Time, five 
 minutes after boiling. Probable cost, 8d., ex- 
 clusive of the sauces. Sufiicient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 JELLY, RUSSIAN. 
 
 Peel two lemons and an orange very thinly, 
 cut them in halves crosswise, squeeze the juices 
 into an enamelled saucepan, put in the peels and 
 one pint of cold water, together with four ounces 
 of sugar, and one ounce of gelatine previously 
 soaked in water. Stir over the fire until quite 
 hot but not boiling, and strain through a sieve 
 into a basin. Allow the mixture to get cool, 
 then stir with a whisk until it becomes frothy ; 
 pour it into a mould, and stand in a cool place 
 until set. Turn out, and serve. 
 
 JELLY, STOCK FOR. 
 
 Stock for jellies may be made either of calf's 
 foot, ox-heel, or the shank-bones of mutton. In 
 all these the process — long and gentle stewing — 
 is the same. The' quantity of water required is as 
 follows : — Calf's Foot Stock — Procure two calf's 
 feet from the butcher. Lay them in a saucepan 
 of scalding hot water for three or four minutes, 
 then scrape off the hair with the back of a knife. 
 Divide them into halves, knock off the hoofs, 
 remove the fat from between the toes, wash in 
 two or three waters, and put them into a sauce- 
 pan with two quarts of cold water. Bring them 
 slowly to a boil, remove the scum as it rises, 
 assist it to rise by throwing in a few drops of 
 cold water when the liquid is on the point of 
 boiling, and simmer gently for five or six hours, 
 until the stock is reduced fully one-half. Strain 
 it, and put it aside until cold. Before using it, 
 remove the fat from it, with an iron spoon which 
 has been dipped into boiling water. When as 
 much fat as possible has been taken off, a cloth 
 dipped in hot water and squeezed dry should 
 be dabbed over the jelly, which should then be 
 lightly dried. Ox-heel Stock — Take two heels, 
 scalded, but unboiled, remove the fat from be- 
 tween the claws, and wash them thoroughly in 
 lukewarm water. Put them into a saucepan 
 with three quarts of cold water. Bring this to a 
 
 boil, remove the scum carefully, and simmer 
 gently for seven or eight hours, or until the 
 liquid is reduced one-half. Strain and pour off 
 the stock, and set it aside to cool. Shank-bones 
 of Mutton — Wash and trim a dozen shank-bones 
 of mutton. Pour over them three pints of water, 
 and simmer gently for seven or eight hours until 
 the liquid is reduced to a pint. The stock for 
 jellies should always be made the day before it 
 is wanted, so that the fat and sediment may be 
 effectually removed. Probable cost, calf's feet. 
 Is. each; ox-heel, 6d. each; shank-bones, 3d. or 
 4d. per dozen, when they are to be bought. The 
 butchers, however, very frequently weigh them 
 with the leg. 
 JELLY, SYRUP CLARIFIED FOR. 
 
 (See Stbtip, Claripibd foe Jelly.) 
 
 JELLY, WEAK WINE (Invalid Cookery). 
 
 Put an ounce of isinglass into an enamelled 
 saucepan with three-quarters of a pint of water 
 and three ounces of sugar. Boil gently until the 
 isinglass is dissolved, remove the scum carefully 
 as it rises, and throw in a tea-spoonful of cold 
 water two or three times, to assist it in doing so. 
 Strain the jelly through a bag which has been 
 wrung out of hot water, add the juice of a couple 
 of oranges, and a quarter of a pint of good 
 sherry, and pour the liquid into glasses. Let it 
 be kept in a cool place until firmly set. Though 
 this jelly will be agreeable and refreshing, it 
 will not be as nourishing as if made from calf's 
 feet. Time, half an hour to dissolve the isin- 
 glass. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine. 
 Is. 4d. Sufficient for four or five glasses. 
 
 JELLY, WHIPPED. 
 
 Take the remains of any cold jelly. Dissolve 
 it over a gentle fire, put it into a basin, and 
 place this upon some rough ice mixed with salt, 
 t^'hisk it briskly until it is well frothed. Pour it 
 into a mould, and set this at once in ice. When 
 firm, turn it out on a dish. Time, a few minutes 
 to dissolve. 
 
 JELLY, WITH WHIPPED CREAM. 
 
 Make a pint and a half of clear wine jelly 
 (see Madeira Wine Jelly), and pour it into a 
 well-wetted mould, open in the centre, so as to 
 form a border. Set it in the refrigerator or on 
 ice to become firm. When wanted for the table, 
 whip half a pint of cream, stir in six ounces of 
 glace fruits cut into dice, and a table-spoonful 
 of brandy; turn out the jelly carefully, fill the 
 centre with the cream, etc., making it into a 
 cone shape, and serve. 
 
 JERSEY MILK CURRY. 
 
 Take the remains of any kind of white boiled 
 fish, remove the bones and skin, and cut the flesh 
 into neat slices, dredge a little flour over them, 
 and fry them in a little butter, with two shallots, 
 finely minced, supposing there are two pounds 
 of fish. Dredge a table-spoonful of curry- 
 powder over them, and put them on a hot plate 
 in the oven until required. Melt two ounces of 
 butter over the fire, and mix smoothly with it 
 two table-spoonfuls of flour. Add a small tea- 
 spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of mixed 
 spice, and as much milk as will make it of the 
 consistency of thick cream. Let it boil gently 
 for a few minutes, then put in the slices of fish. 
 
JER 
 
 339 
 
 JOH 
 
 and let them remain for lialf an hour. Just 
 before serving, squeeze the juice of half a lemon 
 over them. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold 
 fish, 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 JERSEY PUDDING. 
 
 Mix an ounce of flour thoroughly with two 
 ounces of ground rice, two ounces of moist sugar, 
 and a very small pinch of. salt. Work these in- 
 gredients smoothly into four ounces of butter. 
 Add two ounces of stoned raisins, chopped small, 
 a tea-spoonful of finely-minced lemon-rind, three 
 well-beaten eggs, and two table-spoonfuls of 
 milk. Pour the mixture into a well-buttered 
 mould, cover it with an oiled paper, tie it in a 
 cloth, and keep it boiling until it is done enough. 
 Pour round the pudding a sauce made of syrup, 
 flavoured with lemon-rind and juice, and 
 coloured with two or three drops of cochineal.! 
 Time, one hour to boil. Probable cost, 6d. Suf- 
 ficient for two persons. 
 
 JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. 
 
 (See Artichokes, Jebusaiem.) 
 
 JEWISH ALMOND PUDDING. 
 
 (-See Almond Pttdding, Jewish.) 
 
 JEWISH METHOD OF FRYING FISH. 
 
 (See Fish, Fbied, Jewish Fashion.) 
 
 JEWISH SAUSAGES, OR CHORISSA. 
 
 This is used as an accompaniment to boiled 
 fish and other dishes, and is often met with at 
 Jewish tables. It is purchased of the Jew but- 
 chers, and is cooked in the following way. 
 Place the chorissa in warm water, let it heat 
 gently, and then boil for twenty minutes. Serve, 
 surrounded with rice made ready as for curry. 
 Jewish sausages are very good broiled in slices 
 after the previous boiling. They should be 
 quite cold before beingf put again to the fire. 
 One authority is of opinion that they will be 
 found more digestible, as well as pleasanter to 
 the taste, if they are half-boiled at least before 
 being broiled, toasted, or warmed in the 'oven 
 for the table. 
 
 JEWISH SMOKED BEEF. 
 
 Like the sausages of the preceding paragraph, 
 Jewish smoked beef is to be bought of the Jew 
 butchers. To cook it, drop the meat into boil- 
 ing water, let it boil for ten minutes, take off 
 any scum that rises to the surface, add cold 
 water enough to reduce the liquid to mere scald- 
 in fj heat, then bring it gently to the boil, and 
 simmer until the lean oi thi meat feels quite 
 tender when probed with a sharp skewer. Lift 
 the meat on a drainer, and serve hot or cold, and 
 garnish to taste with vegetables or otherwise. 
 
 JOHN DORY. 
 
 The John Dory, or Jaune Dore, so named from 
 the yellow tints on its surface, is a comparatively 
 rare, and consequently expensive, fish, which is 
 seasonable from Michaelmas to Christmas. The 
 flesh is white and firm, something like the claw 
 of a lobster, and, in fish weighing more than 
 seven or eight pounds, is apt to be rather coarse 
 and strong. It is best, both in- flavour and 
 quality, when weighing from four to six pounds. 
 Though the oiliness of the skin unfite it for 
 broiling, it is very good when boiled. When 
 very small the John Dory is best baked. It is 
 
 considered by some inferior only to the turbot. 
 Probable cost, uncertain. (See also Doet.) 
 
 JOHN DORY, BAKED. 
 
 Clean, dry, and flour a small fish, season it 
 with pepper and salt, and sprinkle a little finely- 
 minced parsley over it. Brush it well with clari- 
 fied butter, and place it in a well-buttered 
 baking-dish. Pour a glass of light wine over 
 it, and bake in a moderate oven. For sauce, beat 
 the yolks of two eggs, put them into a saucepan 
 with two ounces of butter, the strained juice of 
 half a fresh lemon, two table-spoonfuls of cold 
 water, half a salt-spoonful of salt, a grain of 
 cayenne, and a small pinch of powdered mace. 
 Stir well until the sauce nearly boils. If the 
 boiling point is reached the sauce will curdle. 
 Send it to table poured over the fish, and garnish 
 with cut lemon and parsley. Time, twenty 
 minutes to bake. Probable cost, uncertain. Suf- 
 ficient for two or three persons. 
 
 JOHN DORY, BOILED. 
 
 Empty and cleanse the fish thoroughly, cut 
 off the fins, and rub a little salt over the out- 
 side. Put it into a fish-kettle, with cold 
 water enough to cover it, and an ounce of salt 
 to each quart of water. Heat it very gradually, 
 and be careful that it boils slowly. Serve on a 
 hot napkin, and garnish with curled parsley and 
 cut lemon. Shrimp, anchovy, lobster, or Dutch 
 sauce should be sent to table with the fish. Time 
 to boil, according to the size; a fish weighing 
 five pounds will require about a quarter of an 
 hour's gentle boiling. Probable cost, uncertain. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 JOHN DORY, COLD, TO WARM UP. 
 
 This fish when warmed up is apt to taste a 
 little strong, therefore the best way of serving 
 it a second time is as a salad, or in a mayonnaise. 
 If this is not liked, remove the flesh from the 
 bones, and divide it into rather large pieces. 
 Put these into a saucepan, season with salt and 
 cayenne, and pour over them any remains of 
 the sauce with which it was served when cold, 
 and heat it gradually for a few minutes, but do 
 not let it boil. Lift it out gently, so as not to 
 break the fish, and serve on a hot dish. If there 
 is no cold sauce, a little melted butter, fiavoured 
 with two or three drops of essence of anchovies, 
 may be used instead. Sufficient, if made with a 
 pound of fish, for two persons. 
 
 JOHN DORY (en Matelote). , 
 
 Chop small a dozen oysters, and mix them 
 thoroughly with three boned anchovies, also 
 finely minced, a table-spoonful of chopped pars- 
 ley, the eighth of a nutmeg, grated, four table- 
 spoonfuls of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and 
 three ounces of butter or chopped suet. Mix all 
 thoroughly, add pepper and salt to taste, the 
 well-beaten yolks of two eggs, and eight table- 
 spoonfuls of new milk. Put all into a stewpan, 
 stir briskly over a gentle fire until the mixture 
 thickens, then fill the Dory with the forcemeat, 
 and sew up the slit. Put the fish into a sauce- 
 pan, barely cover it with cold water, and put 
 with it a turnip, a carrot, a bunch of savoury 
 herbs, a large sprig of parsley, a quarter of a 
 pint of vinegar, half a tea-spoonful of bruised 
 celery-seed, and a table-spoonful of salt. Boi] 
 gently until the fish is sufficiently cooked. Serve 
 
JOH 
 
 340 
 
 JUM 
 
 on a hot dish, and send the following sauce to 
 table in a tureen with it. Melt a piece of 
 butter the size of an egg in a saucepan, fry in 
 this three small onions, sliced very thin, add 
 a table-spoonful of minced parsley, and another 
 of minced chives, a table-spoonful of mushroom 
 ketchup, a glass of claret, and a glass of the 
 liquid in which the fish was boiled. Stew gently 
 for a few minutes until the onions are done, 
 strain through a cloth, and then add half a 
 pint of good brown sauce. Boil until the sauce 
 coats the spoon. A few drops of essence of 
 anchovy and the juice of half a lemon may be 
 added, if liked. Time, a quarter of an hour 
 after boiling for a moderate-sized fish. Probable 
 cost of John Dory, 3s. to 5s. Sufiicient for six 
 or eight persons. 
 
 JOHN DORY, SAUCE FOR. 
 
 When red mullet are plentiful, a good sauce 
 for the John Dory may be made by boiling one, 
 pounding the flesh, rubbing it through a hair 
 sieve, and mixing it with half a pint of melted 
 butter. Time, ten minutes to boil the mullet. 
 
 JOHNNY OR JOURNEY CAKES. 
 
 Take a pint of Indian meal, mix a little salt 
 with it, and as much boiling water as will form 
 a batter. This will be about half a pint. Beat 
 it well for several minutes, then spread it, to 
 about the eighth of an inch in thickness, on a 
 smooth piece of board. Place the board upright 
 in front of a clear fire, and bake the cake. When 
 well browned, cut it into squares, split these, 
 put butter between, and -send them to table as 
 hot as possible. Time, bake until well browned 
 — about twenty minutes. Sufficient for two or 
 three persons. 
 
 JOSEPHINE CAKE. 
 
 Beat four ounces of fresh butter to a cream, 
 mix with it three ounces of pounded and sifted 
 sugar, which, before being powdered, has been 
 well rubbed upon the rind of half a fresh lemon. 
 Add three well-beaten eggs, half a pound of 
 biscuit flour, a quarter of a pound of picked 
 currants, and two table-spoonfuls of sherry or 
 Madeira. Beat all well together for some 
 minutes, put the mixture into a well-buttered 
 mould, and bake in a good oven. Time, forty 
 minutes to bake. Probable cost, exclusive of the 
 wine, lOd. Sufficient for three or four persons, 
 or a small mould. 
 
 JUBILEE PUDDING. 
 
 Take half a pound of spongecake, rather stale 
 than otherwise, and cut it into thin slices. 
 Butter one side, and spread the other either with 
 orange marmalade or apricot jam, then place 
 the slices in layers in a plain round mould, but- 
 tered side downwards. Pour three-quarters of a 
 pint of good custard over each layer, and repeat 
 until the mould is full. Let the pudding soak 
 for an hour, then bake in a quick oven, and turn 
 out before serving. Wine or brandy sauce may 
 be sent to table with it. Time, an hour and a 
 quarter to bake. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 
 JUDY'S PUDDING. 
 
 Shred a quarter of a pound of beef suet very 
 finely. Mix with it a. quarter of a pound of 
 finely-grated bread-crumbs, a table-spoonful of 
 
 flour, two table-spoonfuls of- moist sugar, two 
 well-beaten eggs, and a table-spoonful of brandy 
 or whisky. When these ingredients are thor- 
 oughly blended, pour the mixture into a well 
 buttered mould, lay a buttered paper over it, tie 
 it in a floured cloth, and boil for one hour and 
 a half. Turn the pudding out of the mould 
 before serving, and pour brandied sauce round 
 it. Probable cost, exclusive of the brandy, 6d. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 JULEP, MINT. 
 
 (See Mint Julep.) 
 
 JULEP, PINEAPPLE. 
 
 Put a sliced ripe pineapple in a glass bowl, 
 add the juice of two oranges, a gill 6i raspberry 
 syrup, the same of maraschino and old gin, a 
 bottle of sparkling Moselle] and about a pound 
 of ice in shaves. When mixed, serve in flat 
 glasses. 
 
 JULIENNE SOUP. 
 
 Take three carrots, three turnips, the white 
 part of a head of celery, three onions, and three 
 leeks. Wash and dry the vegetables, and cut 
 them into thin shreds, which should be not 
 more than one inch in length. Place the shreds 
 in a stewpan with two ounces of butter and a 
 small pinch of pounded sugar, and stir them over 
 a slow fire until slightly browned. Pour over 
 them three quarts of clear stock (see Stock), 
 and simmer gently for an hour, or until the 
 vegetables are tender. Carefully remove the 
 scum and grease, and half an hour before the 
 soup is done enough, add two lumps of sugar, 
 with two pinches of salt, and two pinches of 
 pepper if required, two cabbage lettuces, twelve 
 leaves of sorrel, and twelve leaves of chervil, cut 
 in the same way as the other vegetables, after 
 being immersed in boiling water for a minute. 
 Boil half an hour longer, skim carefully, and 
 serve. Send bread fried in dice to table, and 
 serve as hot as possible. It must be remem- 
 bered that quick boiling would thicken and spoil 
 this soupi which ought to be a clear brown. 
 Julienne is seasonable for nine months of the 
 year only. In January, February, and March 
 the carrots, turnips, and leeks required for it 
 are hard and stringy. There are, however, vege- 
 tables to be bought ready cut, preserved, and 
 dried, but these are much inferior in flavour to 
 fresh vegetables. In summer time French beans, 
 green peas, and asparagus tops may be put in, 
 but they must be boiled separately and added a 
 few minutes before serving. Probable cost, 
 exclusive of the stock, about Is. 6d. Sufficient 
 for eight or ten persons. (^ee Vegetables, 
 Dried.) 
 
 JUMBLES. 
 
 Eub some lumps of sugar upon the rind of 
 a fresh lemon. When dry crush them to powder, 
 and with half a pound of sugar mix half a pound 
 of fine flour, two eggs thoroughly whisked, and 
 three ounces of dissolved butter. Make them 
 up into a paste, and add, if required, a table- 
 spoonful of thick cream. Drop the batter on 
 buttered baking-tins from a spoon and bake in 
 a slow oven for twenty minutes or more. The 
 Jumbles are done enough when crisp and lightly 
 browned. Probable cost, lOd. The above in- 
 gredients are sufficient for about a dozen cakes. 
 
JUM 
 
 341 
 
 KAL 
 
 JUMBLES (another way). 
 
 Stir together till of a light lorown colour a 
 pound of sugar and half a pound of butter. Add 
 eight eggs, beaten to a froth, essence of lemon 
 or rose-water to taste, and flour enough to make 
 the mixture sufficiently stiff to roll out. Roll 
 out in powdered sugar, cut the paste into strips 
 about half an inch wide and four inches long. 
 Join the ends together so as to form rings, lay 
 the jumbles on flat tins that have been buttered, 
 and bake them in a quick oven. 
 
 JUNIOR UNITED PUDDING. 
 
 Make a custard with half a. pint of milk and 
 the yolks of four eggs. Take three-quarters of 
 a pound of stale spongecake, cut it into small 
 pieces, and spread butter on one side and mar- 
 malade on the other. Grease a mould, and put 
 the pieces of cake in, placing the buttered side 
 next the mould; fill the mould nearly full, and 
 pour in the custard. Bake for half an hour, and 
 turn out when cold. 
 
 JUNKET. 
 
 Put a pint of milk, a table-spoonful of sugar, 
 a wine-glassful of brandy, and a tea-spoonful of 
 rennet into a glass puddmg-dish. Stir until the 
 sugar is dissolved, cover it, and place it in front 
 of the fire, or any warm place, to heat sufficiently 
 for the rennet to act. As soon as it is set, re- 
 move it to a cool place. Serve with cream, and 
 flavour with nutmeg grated over the surface. 
 
 JUNKET (another way). 
 
 Warm three pints of new milk, add twelve 
 lumps of sugar, pour into a glass dish, and add 
 a wine-glassful of brandy.. Stir in two small 
 table-spoonfuls of essence of rennet, cover with 
 a clean cloth, and leave it some hours to set. 
 Clotted cream may be put on the top before 
 serving. The brandy may be omitted if desired. 
 
 JUNKET, DEVONSHIRE. 
 
 {See Devonshire Junket.) 
 
 KABOBS, BEEF. 
 
 Take one pound of steak, cut it into thin 
 pieces about two inches wide and six inches 
 long, rub each piece with the juice of green 
 ginger, and prepare a mixture as follows. 
 Chop an onion and two heads of garlic very 
 small, and pound twenty-four cloves in a mortar. 
 Mix these well together with a table-spoonful of 
 curry-powder, and add salt to taste. Lay some 
 of this mixture on each piece of the meat, roll 
 up, and string through skewers. Fry in butter 
 for about ten minutes. Take out the skewers, as 
 the meat will retain its shape, and serve with a 
 gravy or thin brown sauce, to which a few drops 
 of lemon-juic2 have been added. Boiled rice 
 may be served with this dish. 
 
 KABOBS, CURRIED. 
 
 Cut up some beef, mutton, or veal, into small 
 pieces the size of a shilling and about a quarter 
 of an inch thick. Cut an equal number of pieces 
 of green ginger and of onions of as nearly as 
 possible the same size. Put them on skewers, 
 alternating a piece of meat, a slice of onion, and 
 a slice of ginger. Prepare a curry sauce {see 
 
 Cttret Sauce), and cook the kabobs in it. Serve 
 with boiled rice in a separate dish. 
 
 KABOBS, MUTTON. 
 
 This is an Indian dish, and is usually made 
 of mutton, veal, or fowl. Its peculiarity is that 
 it is cut into pieces, seasoned rather highly, then 
 fastened together with skewers, and thus both 
 cooked and served. For mutton kabobs, take 
 either the loin or the best end of the neck. 
 Remove the skin and fat, and cut the meat into 
 steaks. Mix half a pint of fine bread-crumbs 
 with a small nutmeg, grated, a dessert-spoonful 
 of powdered mixed herbs, a table-spoonful of 
 salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, and a small pinch 
 of cayenne. Beat the yolks of three eggs. Dip 
 the chops into these, and afterwards into the 
 bread-crumbs, twice. Fasten them together in 
 the position in which they were before they 
 were cut, put a skewer through them, tie them 
 to the spit, and roast before a clear fire. Baste 
 them liberally with some good dripping and the 
 contents of the pan. Have half a pint of good 
 brown gravy, thickened and flavoured, ready to 
 pour over the mutton before sending it to table. 
 Time, an hour and a halt to roast. Probable 
 cost, if made with four pounds of the loin of 
 mutton, 4s. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 KALE BROSE. 
 
 Take an ox-heel, cleanse it thoroughly, and 
 pour over it five pints of water. Bring it to a 
 boil, remove the scum as it rises, and let it 
 simmer gently for four hours. Meanwhile take 
 two large handfuls of greens ; cleanse, and free 
 them from insects, then shred them very finely. 
 Put them into the broth; and when sufficiently 
 cooked, stir half a pint of toasted oatmeal into 
 a little of the fat broth. It should be stirred 
 with the handle of a spoon, and very quickly, 
 so as not to run into one mass, but to form 
 knots. Add it to the rest, with salt and pepper 
 to taste, let all boil up together, and serve as 
 hot as possible. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Suf- 
 ficient for six persons. 
 
 KALE, SCOTCH. 
 
 Scotch kale (or kail), or curly greens, is 
 cooked like ordinary greens. Wash it very 
 carefully, and throw it into fast-boiling salted 
 water. Tne saucepan should remain uncovered 
 in order to preserve the dark green colour. 
 Young S:otch kale will take about twenty min- 
 utes to boil tender. Serve with a little butter, 
 pepper, and salt. 
 
 KALE', SEA, BOILED. 
 
 Let the kale lie in cold water for half an 
 hour, then wash and trim it, and tie in small 
 bunches, put these into a good quantity of 
 boiling water with some salt in it, and let the 
 kale keep boiling until tender. Lift it out, 
 drain the water from it, and send it to table 
 with melted butter or white sauce. Time, about 
 a quarter of an hour ; but it may be boiled a 
 few minutes longer, if liked well done. Prob- 
 able cost, lOd. per basket. Sufficient, four or 
 five heads for each person. 
 
 KALE, SEA, STEWED IN GRAVY. 
 
 Wash and trim the kale, and tie it in small 
 bunches. Put it into boiling salt and water, 
 and let it boil softly for six or eight minutes; 
 
KED 
 
 342 
 
 KID 
 
 then take it out, drain it, and put it into a 
 saucepan, with as much gpod brown grnvy as 
 will cover it. Let it remain until tender, and 
 serve with the gravy in which it was stewed 
 poured over it. Probable cost of kale, lOd. or 
 more per basket. SufB^cient, one basket for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 KEDGEREE. 
 
 Kedgeree, or kidgeree, is an Indian dish, 
 generally used for breakfast; it may be made 
 of the cooked remains of such fish as turbot, 
 salmon, brill, soles, John Dory, whiting, and 
 shrimps. Boil three-quarters of a pound of rice 
 in the same way as for curry. When soft and 
 dry, put it into a saucepan, first with two ounces 
 of butter, and afterwards with a quarter of a 
 pound of the flesh of the fish, freed from skin 
 and bone, and divided into small pieces. Sea- 
 son with cayenne, salt, and pepper — as much as 
 may be required. Stir the kedgeree over the fire 
 until quite hot, then add two well-beaten eggs, 
 mix thoroughly, and serve at once. Time, until 
 very hot, without boiling. Probable cost, Is. 
 Sufficient for half a dozen persons. 
 
 KEDGEREE, FISH. 
 
 (See Fish Kedgeebe.) 
 
 KENTISH CHERRIES, COMPOTE OF. 
 
 (.S'ee Cherries, Kentish, Compote or.) 
 KENTISH SUET PUDDING. 
 
 Shred a quarter of a pound of beef suet very 
 finely, add a pinch of salt, and ten ounces of 
 fine flour; mix thoroughly, and make up into a 
 paste, by the addition of an egg beaten up with 
 a little cold water. Put the whole into a 
 floured cloth, tie it securely, plunge it into^ 
 boiling water, and boil quickly for an hour and 
 a half. This pudding is very good with a jar 
 of jam emptied over it, or eaten with hot gravy 
 and boiled meat. If any is left, it may be 
 toasted before the fire until brightly browned, 
 and served with the same accompaniments as 
 before. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. 
 
 KETCHUP, MUSHROOM. 
 
 Take large flap mushrooms, freshly gathered ; 
 put a layer in a deep earthen jar, then a layer of 
 salt, and so on alternately. Let them remain 
 two or three hours, then pound them well with 
 the hands. Allow them to remain two days, 
 stirring and mashing them well each day. Pour 
 them into a stone jar, and to every quart add 
 one ounce of whole black pepper. Stop the 
 mouth of the jar, set it in a stewpan of hot 
 water, and keep it boiling for two hours. Take 
 out the jar, and pour the juice through a, 
 sieve, without squeezing the mushrooms, into a 
 clean stewpan; let it boil gently for half an 
 hour, then strain through a flannel. Add a 
 table-spoonful of brandy to each pint of ket- 
 chup; bottle, and, when cold, cork and seal. 
 Keep in a dry cool place. 
 
 KEW MINCE, OR HAGGIS ROYAL. 
 
 Cut one pound of lean meat from a cold roast 
 leg of mutton.' Mix it with half a pound of 
 finely-shredded suet, four table-spoonfuls of 
 finely-grated bread-crumbs, one boned anchovy, 
 one tea-spoonful of minced parsley, half a tea- 
 
 spoonful of chopped lemon-rind, one small tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and half a, tea-spoonful of 
 pepper. When the dry ingredients are thor- 
 oughly blended, add a wine-glassful of port or 
 claret, and the yolks of four well-beaten eggs. 
 Put the mixture neatly into a veal caul (or when 
 this cannot be procured, put it into a pie-dish), 
 and bake in a quick oven. Serve as hot as 
 possible, with half a pint of good brown gravy 
 in the diah. Time, three-quarters of an hour 
 to bake. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine. 
 Is. 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 KID. 
 
 A young sucking kid, well cooked, forms an 
 excpUent dish, and is generally dressed whole, 
 like a hare. If grown to any size, it should be 
 jointed before cooking. As it is a dry meat it 
 should be either soaked in a marinade for a few 
 hours, and afterwards hung up for a day or 
 two, or larded before being roasted. The marin- 
 ade may be made of one pint of vinegar, one 
 pint of cold water, half a pint of port or claret, 
 two ounces of salt, two ounces of moist sugar, 
 twelve peppercorns, and a, bay-leaf. Place the 
 kid in this, baste it frequently, and wash it in 
 the marinade once or twice when it is hung up 
 after being taken out. 
 
 KID (k la Poulette). 
 
 Soak a young kid in milk and water for four 
 hours. Drain it, bind strips of fat bacon round 
 it, and roast before a clear fire for three- 
 quarters of an hour. Take it down, and cut 
 from it a neat piece, weighing about two 
 pounds, leaving the rest to hash, or cook at some 
 other time. Put the piece cut off into a sauce- 
 pan, with a pint of veal stock, a tea-spoonful 
 of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, half a 
 tea-spoonful of powdered mace, a dozen, button- 
 mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, and a piece of 
 butter, the size of an egg, rolled in flour. Let 
 it stew gently for an hour ; then take out the 
 meat, place it on a hot dish, strain the sauce, 
 let it boil up once more, then draw it to the 
 side of the fire to cool for two minutes, and add 
 gradually the well-beaten yolk of an egg, mixed 
 , with a table-spoonful of thick cream. The 
 sauce must not boil after the egg is added, or 
 it will curdle. Pour the sauce over the kid, 
 and serve as hot as possible. Garnish the dish 
 with parsley and cut lemon. Probable cost, un- 
 certain, kids being seldom offered for sale. Suf- 
 ficient for four persons. 
 
 KID, HASHED. 
 
 Take about two pounds of the remains oi a 
 cold roast kid — if underdone, so much the 
 better. Cut it into neat slices, and put it into 
 a covered dish until wanted. Put a pint of 
 good veal stock into a saucepan, with an ounce 
 and a half of butter, rolled in flour, a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, 
 half a blade of mace^ a sprig of parsley, and a 
 shallot. Simmer gently for half an hour. 
 Strain the gravy, add a wine-glassful of port,, a 
 table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a tea- 
 spoonful of lemon-juice, and a lump of sugar. 
 Put in the slices of kid, let them get quite hot 
 without boiling the gravy, and serve immediii- 
 ately. Spinach, cauliflowers, or Trench beans 
 are excellent as accompaniments to this dish. 
 
KID 
 
 343 
 
 KID 
 
 Probable cost, exclusive of the cold kid and 
 wine. Is. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 KID, ROAST. 
 
 Soak the kid in a marinade as before directed 
 (see Kid); then bind strips of fat bacon round 
 it, and cover it with buttered paper. Put it 
 down to a clear fire, and baste liberally. About 
 half an hour before it is done enough, remove 
 the paper and bacon, dredge some' flour over 
 the kid, and continue the basting as before. 
 Dissolve one table-spoonful of red-currant jelly 
 in half a pint of mutton gravy, add a wine- 
 glassful of claret, and send the sauce to table 
 in a tureen. Time, according to size : to roast 
 a ^ery young sucking kid will take about an 
 hour and a half. Probable cost, uncertain, kids 
 being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient for 
 six or eight persons. 
 
 KIDNEY AND BEEF STEAK PUDDING. 
 
 {See Beep Steak and Kidney Pudding.) 
 KIDNEY AND EGG TOAST. 
 
 Mince a calf's kidney, and fry it slosyly in 
 butter for ten to fifteen minutes; then mix 
 with it a quarter of a pint of nicely-flavoured 
 thickened gravy, let it simmer for a few min- 
 utes, then spread the mixture on rounds of 
 buttered toast, and place a poached egg on top 
 of each. 
 KIDNEY AND LIVER PUDDING. 
 
 A good pudding may be made with equal 
 weights of ox kidney and liver, as follows. 
 Take three-quarters of a pound of each. Cut 
 them into, slices, and season with salt and cay- 
 enne. Fry these with two ounces of bacon, cut 
 small, and, two ounces of dripping. When 
 lightly browned, pour over them by degrees 
 tlu-ee-quarters of a pint of water, or stock, mixed 
 with a table-spoonful of flour. Line a pud- 
 ding-basin with a good crust, put in the meat 
 and gravy when nearly boiling, place the lid 
 over, pinch the edges securely, tie the basin in 
 a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, 
 and boil quickly until the pudding is done 
 enough. Serve as hot as possible. Boil two 
 hours and a half. Cost, about 2s. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 KIDNEY BEANS. 
 
 (See Beans, Fuench ob Kidney.) 
 
 KIDNEY BEANS, WHITE, FRICASSEED. 
 
 Take one pint of either fresh or dry white 
 kidney beans. Remove the skins ; and in order 
 to do this, tlie beans, if dry, must be soaked in 
 water for ten or twelve hours, and afterwards 
 boiled until tender, when the skins will slip off. 
 If fresh, they must be put into scalding water 
 for a minute, and the skins peeled off. Put the 
 beans into a saucepan, add as much good veal 
 stock as will cover them, with half a tea-spoon- 
 ful of salt, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper, 
 the eighth part of a nutmeg, grated, a large 
 bunch of parsley, a small one of thyme, aijd a 
 piece of fresh butter, rolled in fiour. Simmer 
 gently for fifteen minutes; then take out the 
 herbs, and put into the sauce a glass of sherry. 
 Let it boil, then draw it from the fire a minute 
 to cool, and stir into it the yolks of two eggs, 
 mixed with half a cupful of thick cream, and 
 the strained juice of half a lemon. Serve on a 
 
 hot dish, and garnish with French beans, 
 pickled. Time, half an hour to stew the beans 
 after the skins have been taken off. Probable 
 cost, 2d. or 3d. per pint. Sufficient for three or 
 four persons. 
 
 KIDNEY FRITTERS. 
 
 Make a batter with four well-beaten eggs, 
 mixed with half a pint ■ of new milk, and 
 flavoured with a little pepper, salt, and pounded 
 mace. Stir into this a tea-spoonful each of 
 finely-shredded chives, parsley, and mushrooms, 
 and a table-spoonful of the remains of a cold 
 veal kidney finely minced, and mixed with half 
 ita weight of fat. Beat together for two or 
 three minutes, then melt an ounce of butter in 
 the frying-pan, pour in the mixture, and stir it 
 until it is set. When it is browned on one side, 
 turn it on a. hot dish, hold a Salamander or red- 
 hot shovel over it for a minute or two to colour 
 it on the other, and serve immediately. Time, 
 five or six minutes. Probable cost. Is. Suf- 
 ficient for three persons. 
 
 KIDNEY GRAVY. 
 
 Take an ox kidney, or, if preferred, four 
 sheep's kidneys, cut into slices, dredge these 
 with flour, and fry them lightly in butter, with 
 a thinly-sliced onion and a bunch of sweet herbs. 
 Move them about gently until nicely browned, 
 then pour over them a pint of water. Simmer 
 gently for an hour and a half, strain, and set 
 aside for use. Time, six minutes to fry the 
 meat. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for one 
 pint of gravy. 
 
 KIDNEY IRISH STEW. 
 
 Cut an ox kidney into pieces about one and 
 a half inches square, first removing the hard core 
 out of the middle. Season with salt and pep- 
 per, and put it into a saucepan with an onion 
 finely minced, and a quarter of a pint of water, 
 or stock. , Let the liquid boil, and remove the 
 scum carefully; then put half a dozen large 
 peeled potatoes into the pan, and simmer gently 
 until they are sufficiently cooked, but unbroken. 
 Put the kidney in the middle of a dish, arrange 
 the potatoes round it, pour the gravy over all, 
 and serve as hot as possible. Time, one hour 
 to simmer the stew. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 KIDNEY OMELET. 
 
 Take the remains of a cold veal kidney, or if 
 this is not at hand, cut a fresh one into slices, 
 and fry it over a clear fire for three or four 
 minutes. Mince it very finely, season with salt 
 and cayenne, and mix two table-spoonfuls of the 
 mince with the well-beaten yolks of six and the 
 whites of three eggs. Add three ounces of fresh 
 butter, broken small. Put two ounces of butter 
 in an omelet-pan, let it remain on a slow fire 
 until it bubbles, then pour in the mixture, and 
 stir briskly for three or four minutes until the 
 eggs are set. Fold the edges of the omelet over 
 neatly, and turn it carefully upon a hot dish. 
 Serve immediately. If too much cooked it will 
 be tough. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for 
 three or four persons. 
 
 KIDNEY, OX, STEWED. 
 
 Cut a fresh ox kidney into slices the eighth 
 of an inch in thickness, soak them for a few 
 
KID 
 
 344 
 
 KID 
 
 minutes in lukewarm water, drain, and dry 
 them thoroughly in a cloth. Season them with 
 a little pepper, dredge flour thickly over them, 
 and fry them in three ounces of hot butter, or 
 dripping, until they are brightly browned. Pour 
 over them as much cold water or stock as will 
 cover them, and add a dessert-spoonful of vine- 
 gar in which onions have been pickled, or, if this 
 is not at hand, plain vinegar or lemon-juice; a 
 finely-minced shallot, a table-sjoonful of 
 chopped parsley, and a little salt and cayenne. 
 Stew gently until done, and thicken the gravy 
 before serving it. Half a tea-spoonful of mixed 
 mustard may be stirred into the sauce before 
 it is taken from the fire, if this is liked. Time 
 to stew, two hours. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 KIDNEY PIE (for breakfast or luncheon). 
 
 Take four veal kidneys, and half its bulk in 
 fat with each. Cut them into slices a quarter 
 of an inch thick, season rather highly with salt 
 and cayenne, and add half a tea-spoonful of 
 powdered mace for the whole. Cut the meat 
 from a calf's foot, and season it in the same way. 
 Place a layer of kidney at the bottom of a pie- 
 dish, strew over it two ounces of finely-minced 
 ham, and lay on this the slices of calf's foot. 
 Repeat until the dish is nearly full. Put the 
 hard-boiled yolks of six eggs and half a dozen 
 forcemeat balls at the top, and pour over them 
 a quarter of a pint of veal stock, flavoured with 
 lemon-juice. Line the edges of the dish with a 
 good crust, cover it with the same, and bake in 
 a moderate oven. Though forcemeat balls are 
 an improvement to the pie, they may be dis- 
 pensed with. They are made as follows. Strain 
 ten or twelve oysters from their liquor, mince 
 them very finely, and mix them with four 
 ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, a table- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley, half a tea-spoonful 
 of grated lemon-rind, and a little salt, cayenne, 
 and mace. Mix these ingredients thoroughly. 
 Bind them together with the unbeaten yolk of 
 an egg and a little of the oyster Uquor, make 
 them into balls, and they are ready for use. 
 This pie, which is generally a favourite, should 
 be eaten cold. A good pie may be made with 
 cold kidney and a few slices of the kidney-fat 
 from a, cold loin of veal, instead of fresh kid- 
 neys. Time, from an hour and a half to two 
 hours to bake. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient 
 for six or eight persons. 
 KIDNEY PUDDING. 
 
 Cut the hard core out of the centre of an ox 
 kidney, and divide the meat into pieces an inch 
 square. Season these with pepper and salt ; 
 and, if liked, add an onion and two ounces of 
 beef suet, finely minced. Make some pastry, 
 with three-quarters of a pound of flour, half a 
 pound of good dripping, and as much water as is 
 required. Roll it out, line a pudding-basin with 
 it, and put in the slices of meat. Pour over 
 them a tea-cupful of cold water, place a cover 
 of pastry on the top, pinch the edges securely, 
 tie the pudding in a floured cloth, and plunge 
 it into boiling water. Boil quickly. Turn 
 the pudding out when cooked enough, and 
 serve very hot. Time, three hours to boil. 
 Probable cost, ^ Is. 6d. Sufficient for four 
 persons. 
 
 KIDNEY PUDDING (another way). 
 
 This pudding may also be made of mutton, 
 veal, or lamb. Make the pastry as directed in 
 the last recipe. Line a pudding-basin with it, 
 and slice half a dozen kidneys. Season them 
 with salt and cayenne, and sprinkle over them 
 a dessert-spoonful of powdered herbs, of which 
 two-thirds should be parsley and one-third 
 thyme. Put them in the basin, pour over them 
 two or three table-spoonfuls of good veal stock 
 and a glassful of light wine; cover them with 
 the crust, pinch in the edges securely, tie the 
 pudding in a floured cloth, plunge it into boil- 
 ing water, and keep it boiling quickly until it is 
 cooked enough. Serve as hot as possible. 
 Time to boil, three hours. Probable cost, 2s. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 KIDNEY, RISSOLES OF. 
 
 Take the remains of an ox kidney; cut some 
 thin slices from it, weigh them, and to half a 
 pound of kidney put half a pound of lean boiled 
 ham. Mince the meat very finely, season with 
 pepper and salt, and moisten it with the yolk 
 of an egg well beaten. Roll out half a pound 
 of the trimmings of puff paste to the thickness of 
 an eighth of an inch. Divide the mince into 
 small balls, roll each one in paste, and fry them 
 in hot fat till they are brightly browned. Serve 
 as hot as possible, and garnish with parsley. 
 Time, three or four minutes to fry. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 KIDNEYS (li la Brochette). 
 
 Skin six sheep's kidneys, cut them open nearly 
 in half so that they open book fashion; keep 
 them in this position by skewering them with 
 small skewers. Warm two ounces of butter till 
 just oiled. Dip in the kidneys, lay them on a hot 
 gridiron, and grill them for eight to ten minutes, 
 turning them frequently. Serve on the hot 
 buttered toast, sprinkling on each a little 
 chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and a drop or 
 two of lemon-juice. Serve them very hot. 
 Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost. 
 Is. lid. 
 
 KIDNEYS (4 la Tartare). 
 
 Broil five or six kidneys. Put them on a hot 
 dish, and serve the following sauce with them, 
 which should be prepared before the kidneys are 
 put on to broil. Beat the yolk of an egg for 
 two or three minutes. Add very gradually, in 
 drops at first, six tea-spoonfuls of oil, and then 
 one of tarragon vinegar. Beat the mixture well 
 between every addition, or the oil will float on 
 the top. Repeat until the sauce is of the con- 
 sistency of thick cream. Four table-spoonfuls 
 of oil, and one of vinegar, will be about the 
 quantity required. Add a pinch of salt, a small 
 pinch of cayenne pepper, a table-spoonful of un- 
 mixed French mustard, five or six gherkins, and 
 three shailots, finely minced, a tea-spoonful each 
 of chopped chervil, tarragon, and burnet, and 
 half a tea-spoonful of chiln vinegar. Put a tea- 
 spoonful of this sauce in the hollow of each 
 kidney, and send the rest to table in a tureen. 
 Time, six minutes to broil the kidney; about 
 three-quarters of an hour to prepare the sauce. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable 
 cost, 3d. each. 
 
KID 
 
 345 
 
 KID 
 
 KIDNEYS AND BACON. 
 
 Trim away the fat from the desired number 
 of kidneys, skin, and cut each into slices cross- 
 wise. Mix on a plate a table-spoonful of flour, 
 a salt-spoonful of salt, and half a salt-spoonful 
 of pepper. Dip each slice into the mixture. 
 Melt a little bacon fat or butter in the frying- 
 pan ; then put in the required number of rashers 
 of bacon, cut thinly, and fry very gently over a 
 slow fire, turning them repeatedly. When suf- 
 ficiently cooked put them on the dish on which 
 they are to be served, and fry the slices of 
 kidney in the same fat. Turn them every 
 minute, and in about five minutes they will be 
 done enough, and may be put on the dish with 
 the bacon. Pour off the superabundant fat; 
 sprinkle a tea-spoonful of flour into the re- 
 mainder, and mix it thoroughly; add gradually 
 as much water as will make a somewhat thick 
 sauce. Stir it over the fire till it boils, add a 
 tea-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and strain 
 over the kidneys. 
 
 KIDNEYS AND MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Skin two sheep's kidneys, and cut them into 
 small neat pieces. Melt an ounce of butter in a 
 saucepan, and throw in about two dozen fresh 
 button mushrooms and half a gill of stock. 
 Simmer gently (on no account boil) for seven or 
 eight minutes, and stir well. Throw in the pre- 
 pared kidneys, and continue to simmer very 
 gently until they are cooked. At the last 
 moment add pepper and salt, half a tea-spoonful 
 of chopped parsley, and a glass of sherry. 
 Serve hot. 
 
 KIDNEYS, CURRIED. 
 
 Skin two sheep's kidneys, wash them, and 
 slice them very finely. Put one ounce of butter 
 into a frying-pan, and when quite hot throw in 
 the kidneys. Stir them over a sharp fire for three 
 minutes, take them off, add a dessert-spoonful of 
 curry paste and a pinch of salt. Mix well 
 together, and serve up on toast. 
 
 KIDNEYS, CURRIED (another way). 
 
 Split and grill nine sheep's kidneys until tnree 
 parts cooked, then put them into half a pint of 
 rich curry sauce (see Citeet Sauce) ; add a table- 
 spoonful of chutney, and simmer gently for 
 eight minutes. Dish up in a .border of rice. 
 
 KIDNEYS, DEVILLED. 
 
 Split eight kidneys, and put a, little melted 
 butter in the hollow of each. Mix a tea-spoonful 
 of made mustard with one of minced parsley, 
 and season with pepper and salt. Spread the 
 mixture over the kidneys, then a layer of bread- 
 crumbs, and bake in a moderate oven for fifteen 
 minutes, basting every few minutes with a little 
 butter. Dish up on round croutons, and gar- 
 nish with parsley. 
 KIDNEYS, FRIED. 
 
 Skin four sheep's kidneys, and cut them into 
 halves without quite dividing them. Put an 
 ounce of butter in a clean frying-pan, and when 
 it is melted put the kidneys in cut side down- 
 wards, and fry them for three or four minutes, 
 then turn them, and fry for another three 
 minutes. Put each kidney on a small piece of 
 toast, season with pepper and salt, pour the 
 gravy from the frying-pan over them, and serve 
 very hot. 
 
 KIDNEYS, GRILLED. 
 
 Warm the gridiron and rub the bars with a 
 small piece of suet. Skin the kidneys and out 
 them in half without quite dividing them ; pass 
 a skewer through, each kidney, opening it out 
 flat, and broil them over a clear fire for six or 
 seven minutes, being careful to put the cut side 
 to the fire first. Slip each kidney off its skewer 
 on to a small piece of hot buttered toast, season 
 with pepper and salt, and serve very hot. 
 
 KIDNEYS, GRILLED, AND TOMATOES. 
 
 Split eight sheep's kidneys, put them on a 
 skewer, and grill over a clear fire for five 
 minutes; lay them on a hot dish, sprinkle a 
 little minced ham or bacon over, and a dusting 
 of pepper. _ Partly close them, put a little butter 
 over each, and bake in a moderate oven for ten 
 minutes. Fry some tomatoes, and make a border 
 of them round the dish, with the kidneys in the 
 centre. 
 
 KIDNEYS, MINCED. 
 
 Chop an ox kidney into pieces the size of a 
 pea, season them rather highly with salt and 
 cayenne, and fry them in two ounces of hot 
 butter for a quarter of an hour, moving them 
 about frequently in the pan, that they may be 
 equally cooked. Moisten the mince with one 
 table-spoonful of good brown gravy, and three 
 table-spoonfuls of champagne, stew a few 
 minutes longer, and serve in a hot dish. 
 
 KIDNEYS, MUTTON. 
 
 (For further recipes see Mutton Kidneys.) 
 KIDNEY SOUP. 
 
 Cut an ox kidney into thin slices. Season 
 these with salt and pepper, dredge a little flour 
 over them, and fry them in butter until they 
 are nicely browned. Pour over them as much 
 boiling water as will cover them, and simmer 
 gently for an hour. Take out the kidney, cut 
 it into small pieces, and return it to the sauce- 
 pan, together with two quarts of stock, two 
 turnips, two carrots, one onion, three sticks of 
 celery, all cut small, and a small bunch of 
 savoury herbs. Simmer slowly for an hour and 
 a half, then take out the herbs; add a table- 
 spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and a little salt 
 and pepper, if required, and thicken the soup 
 with a lump of butter rolled in flour. Probable 
 cost. Is. 6d. per quart. Sufficient for half a 
 dozen persons. 
 
 KIDNEYS, STEWED. 
 
 Fry the desired number of kidneys very slowly 
 on both sides, in a little butter with a minced 
 shallot, until half-cooked. Put them into a 
 stewpan with half a pint of good rich thickened 
 gravy, and the liquor, etc., from the frying-pan. 
 Stew very slowly for fifteen minutes, and serve 
 with sippets of toast. 
 
 KIDNEY TOAST. 
 
 Pound in a mortar a cold veal kidney, with the 
 fat which surrounds it. Season it with half a 
 tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pep- 
 per, the finely-grated rind of a quarter of a 
 lemon, and two or three grates of nutmeg. Mix 
 it with the white of an egg, well whisked. Lay 
 it upon pieces of toast out into squares. Cover 
 with the yolk of the egg, well beaten, and strew 
 bread-crumbs over. Melt one ounce of butter in 
 
KIT 
 
 346 
 
 KRO 
 
 a dish, put in the toasts, and place them in a 
 
 hot oven to bake. Serve as hot as possible. 
 
 Time, a quarter of an hour to bake the toasts. 
 
 Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for three or four 
 
 persons. 
 
 KITCHENER'S SALAD MIXTURE. 
 
 Boil a couple of eggs for twenty minutes, and 
 put them in a basin of cold water for a few 
 minutes ; the yolks must be quite cold and hard, 
 or they will not incorporate with the ingredients. 
 Hub the yolks through a sieve with a wooden 
 spoon, and mix with them a table-spoonful of 
 milk, or fine double cream, then add two table- 
 spoonfuls of oil, or melted butter; when these 
 are well mixed, add by degrees a tea-spoonful 
 of salt, or powdered lump sugar, and the same 
 of made mustard. When these ingredients are 
 smoothly united, add very gradually three table- 
 spoonful of vinegar, mix it with the other in- 
 gredients till it is thoroughly incorporated with 
 them; cut up the white of the egg, and garnish 
 the top of the salad with it. Let the sauce re- 
 main at the bottom of the bowl, and do not 
 stir up the salad till it is to be eaten. If the 
 herbs be young, freshly gathered, neatly 
 trimmed, and drained dry, and the sauce maker 
 ponders patiently over these directions, he can- 
 not fail obtaining the fame of being a very ac- 
 complished salad dresser. Probable cost, 4d. 
 Sufficient for a good-sized bowl of salad. 
 
 KITCHENER'S STORE SAUCE, SUPERLATIVE 
 
 (Fop Fish, Poultry, Game, etc.) 
 Take a pint of claret or port, a pint of mush- 
 room ketcnup, half a pint of walnut or lemon 
 pickle, four ounces of pounded anchovies, an 
 ounce of fresh lemon-peel, pared very thinly, an 
 ounce of scraped horse-radish, an ounce of finely 
 minced shallots, half an ounce of powdered 
 tlack pepper, half an ounce of allspice, a salt- 
 spoonful of cayenne — or a dessert-spoonful of 
 curry-powder — and a. small tea-spoonful of 
 "bruised celery-seed. Put these into a wide- 
 mouthed bottle, and let them remain for a fort- 
 night, shaking them every day. At the end of 
 that time strain, and put into small bottles for 
 -use. Probable cost, 2s., exclusive of the wine. 
 Sufficient, . a table-spoonful for a quarter of a 
 pint of melted butter or graVy. 
 
 KITCHEN MIXED SPICE, FOR WHITE SAUCE. 
 
 Take the grated rind of half a lemon, half a 
 nutmeg, grated, an ounce of white pepper, and 
 a tea-spoonful of powdered mace. Mix thor- 
 oughly. If not quite fine, pound all together in 
 a mortar, and keep in a closely-stoppered bottle 
 "until wanted for use. Probable cost, 4d. for 
 this quantity. When using kitchfin mixed spice, 
 put half a tea-spoonful into a pint of sauce, and 
 taste if more is required. 
 
 KITCHEN UTENSILS. 
 
 (See Utensils, etc.) 
 
 KNEADED CAKES. 
 
 Mix a quarter of a pouiM of currants with 
 three-quarters of a pound of flour, and a pinch 
 of salt. Make up into a paste with some thick 
 cream, knead well, roll to the thickness of half 
 an inch, cut it into rounds with the top of a 
 small teacup, and bake on a griddle, or in a brisk 
 oven. If no cream is at hand, good cakes may 
 be made by rolling out a pound of puff paste to 
 
 the thickness of a penny piece. Strew some cur- 
 rants and a little moist sugar over half of 
 these, place the other half over them, and bake 
 as before. These cakes are best when served 
 hot. Time, ten or fifteen minutes to bake. 
 Probable cost. Is., if made with cream ; 8d. with 
 pastry. Sufficient for about two dozen cakes. 
 
 KOUMISS. 
 
 Strictly speaking, koumiss is fermented mare's 
 milk, and it is a favourite drink among the 
 nomadic tribes who inhabit Siberia and Chinese 
 Tartary. But a very good substitute for it is 
 made from cow's milk, and is highly recom- 
 mended as an article of diet for the sick. It is 
 made thus. Dissolve a pennyworth of German 
 yeast in a little water, and mix it with a quart 
 of perfectly fresh milk and a table-spoonful of 
 sugar. Put the mixture into champagne bottles, 
 cork them down, and wire them. Shake the 
 bottles for a minute to mix the ingredients thor- 
 oughly, then place them on end in a cool place 
 to ferment slowly. After three days lay the 
 bottles on their sides, and turn them occasion- 
 ' ally. In five days the koumiss will be at its 
 best, but it will keep for an indefinite time in 
 a refrigerator. .^ 
 
 KRINGLES. 
 
 Warm two ounces of fresh butter slightly, but 
 not so as to melt it. Mix it with the yolks of 
 four and the whites of two eggs, well beaten; 
 add two ounces of sifted sugar, half a pound of 
 flour, and a pinch of salt, and knead to a smooth 
 paste. Roll the paste out to the thickness of 
 half an inch. Stamp in rounds with an ordinary 
 cutter, prick them with a fork, and bake 
 on buttered tins in a moderate oven. Time to 
 bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. 
 Sufficient for six or eight kringles. 
 
 KROMESKIES. 
 
 Kromeskies are croquettes cooked in the Eus- 
 sian manner; they are made as follows. Mince 
 the remains of any cold meat, fish, poultry, or 
 shell-fish, as for croquettes ; season, them nicely, 
 and shape them, as usual, like a cork. Instead 
 of dipping them in egg, and afterwards in 
 bread-crumbs, cut some slices of cold fat bacon 
 (boiled) as thin as writing-paper; wrap the cro- 
 quettes in these, dip each one in a little frying 
 batter (see Batter fob FKTrNG), fry them in hot 
 clarified fat, and when brown and crisp, arrange 
 neatly on a hot dish; garnish with fried pars- 
 ley, and serve immediately. Kromeskies may 
 be made according to any of the recipes given 
 for croquettes, and should be cooked as abovte. 
 The following recipe will serve as a specimen. 
 
 KROMESKIES OF OYSTERS. 
 
 Open carefully one dozen fresh oysters ; beard 
 them, and chop them small ; then mince cold 
 chicken or turkey very finely in equal quan- 
 tities. Add three mushrooms cut into small 
 pieces, the yolk of an egg, the oyster liquor, and 
 a table-spoonful of cream. Stir the mixture over 
 a slow fire until it is quite thick; then put it 
 into a cool place tor an hour, and when cold, 
 roll it into 6roo[uettes the shape and size of small 
 corks ; fold thin fat bacon round these, dip them 
 into a frying batter, and fry them in hot fat 
 until they are crisp and brown. Serve piled in 
 the centre of a hot dish, and garnish with fried 
 
KUW 
 
 347 
 
 LAM 
 
 parsley. Time, six or eight minutes to fry. 
 Probable cost, about 3s. SuiRcient for three or 
 four persons. 
 
 KUWAB FOWL. 
 
 Put four cloves, a salt-spoonful of pounded 
 ginger, a salt-spoonful of cayenne, and half an 
 ounce of coriander-seed in a mortar. Pound 
 these until quite smooth, and mix with them 
 three small onions, 'finely minced. Divide a 
 small chicken into neat joints; rub them inside 
 and out with the mixture, and put them into a 
 frying-pan, with a quarter of a pound of sweet 
 butter. Turn them about constantly, and when 
 they are brightly browned all over and suf- 
 ficiently cooked, squeeze over them the strained 
 juice of a lemon, and serve as hot as possible. 
 Time to cook, half an hour. Probable cost of 
 chicken, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for two or three 
 persons. 
 
 LADIES' WINE BISCUITS (sometimes called Ladies' 
 Lips). 
 Mix three ounces of ground rice and three 
 ounces of finely-sifted sugar. Make them into a 
 paste with three fresh eggs. Beat all thoroughly 
 lor some minutes, then spread the mixture 
 evenly and thinly on paper, and bake on a well- 
 oiled tin for twenty minutes. Stamp the paste 
 into small ornamental shapes with an ordinary 
 pastry-cutter, and spread over them a thin coat- 
 ing of icing, prepared as follows. Beat the 
 white of an egg to a firm froth. Mix with it 
 a quarter of a pound of finely-sifted sugar and 
 as much cold water as will make it quite smooth. 
 Colour part of this with two or three drops of 
 cochineal. Spread a little on the top of the 
 biscuits, and put them into a cool oven until • 
 the icing sets. Keep the biscuits in a tin box, 
 closely covered, until wanted for use. Time, 
 twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, 7d. for 
 this quantity. 
 
 LADY ABBESS* PUDDING. 
 
 This excellent pudding is sometimes called 
 Lady Betty's Delight. Take the thin rind of a 
 fresh lemon, and let it soak for half an hour in 
 half a pint of new milk, then sweeten with two 
 table-spoonfuls of sugar. Put the whole into a 
 saucepan, and when well heated, add two large , 
 fresh eggs and the milk of a cocoa-nut, and put 
 the custard aside to cool. Shred four ounces of 
 beef suet very finely, grate two ounces of a fresh 
 cocoa-rnut, and stone and mince six ounces of 
 muscatel iaisins. Cut four ounces of stale bread 
 into thin slices. Butter a plain round mould, 
 and stick raisins upon it in even rows. Put a 
 slice of bread at the bottom, and place upon it a 
 little suet, a few raisins, a little chopped lemon- 
 rind and juice, three grates of nutmeg, and a 
 little custard, and repeat until all the ingfre- 
 dients are used, being careful to place bread 
 and custard at the top. Let the pudding soak 
 for an hour, then lay a buttered paper on the 
 top, tie in a floured cloth, plunge into boiling 
 water, and let it boil quickly until done enough. 
 Turn it out carefully, and serve with the follow- 
 ing sauce in a tureen. Mix a tea-spoonful of 
 arrowroot very smoothly with two table-spoon- 
 fuls of cocoa-nut milk. Pour over it a quarter 
 
 of a pint of boiling syrup flavoured with lemon- 
 rind and cinnamon, stir all together until the 
 mixture is nearly cold, then add two table- 
 spoonfuls of cream, a few drops of vanilla 
 essence, and a dessert-spoonful of brandy. 
 Time to boil the pudding, three hours and a half. 
 Probable cost, with the sauce. Is. 8d. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 LADY ABBESS' PUFFS. 
 
 Blanch six ounces of Jordan almonds. Throw 
 them into cold water as they are done, and 
 afterwards wipe them dry and pound them in a 
 mortar, adding a few drops i of rose or orange- 
 flower water every now and then to prevent them 
 oiling. Mix with them a quarter of a pound 
 of finely-sifted loaf sugar and half an ounce of 
 fresh butter. Pound to a smooth paste. Spread 
 this evenly and thinly on small buttered patty- 
 pans, and bake in a very slow oven until the 
 puffs are crisp. Before serving, put a little jam 
 into each, and cover it with whipped cream. 
 The puffs should be cold before the jam is put 
 into them. Time to bake, an hour or more. 
 Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for a dozen and a 
 half puffs. 
 
 LADY FINGERS. 
 
 Whisk four fresh eggs thoroughly, the whites 
 and the yolks separately. Mix smoothly with 
 the yolks three ounces of powdered sugar and 
 three ounces of flour, add the whites, and after- 
 wards a quarter of a pint, of rose-water. Beat 
 all together for some minutes. Have ready a 
 well-buttered baking-tin, form the paste upon 
 it with a spoon in " fingers," three inches long 
 and three-quarters of an inch wide, sift » little 
 powdered sugar over them, let them stand five 
 or six minutes to melt the sugar, then put them 
 into a moderate oven, and bake until they arc 
 lightly browned. When cool, put them in pairs, 
 and keep them in a tin canister closely covered 
 until wanted for use. Time to bake, about 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient 
 for two dozen fingers. 
 
 LADYWELL PUDDING. 
 
 Mix a table-spoonful of flour and a little 
 grated nutmeg to a smooth paste with cold milk, 
 and add a little sugar to make the pudding 
 palatable. Pour on half ,a pint of boiling milk, 
 and stir well. When cold, add a beaten egg, and 
 half a wineglass of sherry or Madeira. Pour 
 into a buttered pie-dish, and bake half an hcur. 
 
 LAIT SUCRE. 
 
 (See Milk, SuOaebd, or Lait Sucre.) 
 
 LAMARTINE'S PUDDII^G. 
 
 Stew four large apples in a little water, with 
 a small piece of cinnamon, until they are tender, 
 but unbroken. Take them up, drain them, and 
 beat them with a fork. Let them get cold, 
 then mix with them the yolks of four eggs and 
 the white of one, well beaten, a. little pounded 
 sugar, two or three drops of vanilla, two ounces 
 of fresh butter, and three-quarters of a pint of 
 cream or good milk. Line a pie-dish with good 
 puff paste. Pour in the mixture, and bake in 
 a moderate oven. Strew sifted sugar over before 
 serving. Apricots may be substituted for the 
 apples in this recipe. Time to bake, half an 
 hour. Probable cost, when made with milk. Is. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
LAM 
 
 348 
 
 LAM 
 
 LAMB. 
 
 House lamb (by which is meant lamb born in 
 the middle of winter, reared under shelter, and 
 fed, in a great measure, upon milk) is con- 
 sidered a great delicacy. It may be obtained 
 from Christmas to Lady Day. At Easter, grass 
 lamb, or lamb brought up out of doors, and fed 
 upon grass, comes into season. Like all young 
 animals, lamb ought to be thoroughly cooked, 
 or it is most unwholesome. The joint should 
 not be taken from the fire until the gravy drops 
 from it. Lamb is usually cut into quarters, and 
 of these the fore-quarter, which consists of the 
 shoulder (3), the breast (5), and the neck (4), is 
 considered the best. It should be cooked fresh. 
 
 LAMB, JOINTED. 
 
 and its quality may be easily tested by the ap- 
 pearance of the vein of the neck, which should 
 be ruddy or of a bluish colour. It is generally 
 roasted, though in very young lamb, the leg, 
 which is frequently served by itself, and makes a 
 useful and excellent joint, may be boiled and 
 sent to table with white sauce. The hind- 
 quarter, consisting of the leg (1) and loin (2), 
 is better for hanging two or three days. As, 
 however, lamb will not keep well in unfavour- 
 able weather, or for any length of time, it 
 should be examined daily, and the moisture care- 
 fully wiped from the joints. In order to ascer- 
 tain whether or not it is fresh, place the finger 
 between the loin and kidney. Any taint may 
 be easily discovered by the smell. The fat of 
 Iamb should be firm and light, the lean a clear 
 faintish white, and also firm. If the fat be 
 yellow and the lean flabby and red, the lamb 
 is of inferior quality, and will not keep. Where 
 economy is a consideration, lamb should not be 
 bought before it is five months old. 
 
 LAMB (a I'Espagnole). 
 
 (See Lamb, Cooked whole, sometimes called 
 Lamb a I'Espagnole.) 
 
 LAMB ik fa Milanaise). 
 
 (See Lamb, Bbeast of. Braised, sometimes 
 called Lamb a la Milanaise.) 
 
 LAMB AND CURRANT PIE. 
 
 Cut about two pounds of the breast of lamb 
 into small, neat pieces. Put them in a pie-dish, 
 and sprinkle over them a dessert-spoonful of salt, 
 a tea-spoonful of pepper, a table-spoonful of 
 
 finely-minced parsley, a quarter of a nutmeg, 
 grated, and three table-spoonfuls of picked cur- 
 rants. Beat two eggs thoroughly, mix with 
 them a wine-glassful of sherry, and pour them 
 over the meat. Line the edges of the dish with 
 a good crust, cover with the same, and bake in 
 a moderate oven. A little white wine and sugar 
 should be sent to table with this pie. Time, an 
 hour and a half to bake. Probable cost, 2s. 8d., 
 exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 LAMB (au Bechamel). 
 
 (SeeliAMB, Leg of. Stewed, with Bechamel, 
 or White Sauce.) 
 LAMB, BAKED, AND ROSEMARY. 
 
 Butter a baking-dish, and lay in it one or 
 two sprigs of rosemary and two bay-leaves. 
 Place upon these any joint of lamb weighing 
 four or five pounds, first seasoning it with pepper 
 and salt. Put a quarter of a pint of stock at 
 the bottom of the pan, and place two ounces of 
 fresh butter, divided into small pieces, here and 
 there upon the meat. Put the dish in a moderate 
 oven, baste the lamb frequently, and when done 
 enough, skim the fat from the gravy, and serve 
 it strained over the joint. Time to bake^ about 
 an hour. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for 
 half a dozen persons. 
 
 LAMB, BLADEBONE OF, BROILED. 
 
 Take a cold shoulder of lamb weighing from 
 two to three pounds, and score the flesh to the 
 bones in squares about an inch apart. Make a 
 powder by mixing together a tea-spoonful of 
 salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, and half a tea- 
 spoonful of dry mustard. Hub this well into 
 the flesh, then place the meat on a hot gridiron, 
 put it four or five inches above a clear fire, and 
 broil it first on one side and then on the other 
 until it is hot throughout. Place it on a hot 
 dish, brush it over with clarified butter, squeeze 
 the juice of a lemon upon it, and serve as hot 
 as possible. If preferred, the meat can be egged 
 and bread-crumbed before being broiled. Time 
 to broil, about a quarter of an hour. The hot 
 mixture should be rubbed into the joint some 
 hours before it is broiled. 
 
 LAMB, BONED, QUARTER OF. 
 
 Take the bone from a quarter of lamb, being 
 , careful to keep the knife close to the bone, 
 spread over the meat half a pound of veal force- 
 meat, roll it round securely, skewer it firmly, 
 and bind it with tape. Put it down to a clear 
 fire, and baste liberally, with good beef or mut- 
 ton fat. Send mint sauce to table with it. Time 
 to roast the lamb, twenty minutes to the pound. 
 Probable coat. Is. Id. per pound. Sufficient for 
 eight or nine persons. 
 
 LAMB, BONED, SHOULDER OF. 
 
 Take the bone from the lamb and lay the 
 shoulder flat on the table ; sprinkle plentifully 
 with chopped mint, parsley, thyme, and pepper ; 
 then roll up and tie firmly, bake in a moderate 
 oven for three hours, and serve with brown 
 gravy. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. 
 
 LAMB BRAINS AND TONGUE. 
 
 Take the tongue from the head after it has 
 been boiled, and put it into a saucepan with as 
 much cold water as will cover it. Wash the 
 
LAM 
 
 349 
 
 LAM 
 
 brains in lukewarm water, pick the fibres from 
 them, and tie them in a piece of muslin, with a 
 dessert-spoonful of finely-minced parsley, and 
 boil all together for a quarter of an hour. Take 
 out the, brains, chop them small, season them 
 with a little pepper and salt, and put them into 
 a saucepan with a quarter of a pint of cream, 
 and half an ounce of fresh butter rolled in 
 flour. Stir them over the fire, and let them 
 boil a minute or two, then skin the tongue, 
 place it on a hot dish, and serve the brains 
 round it. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for 
 one person. 
 
 LAMB, BRAISED. 
 
 Bone a shoulder of lamb, fill up the opening 
 with veal forcemeat, skewer it securely, and 
 braise it for two hours over a slow .fire. Serve 
 on spinach, or sorrel. Probable cost, about lOd. 
 per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 LAMB, BREAST OF, AND PEAS. 
 
 Remove the skin from a breast of lamb, cut 
 away part of the fat, and divide into neat pieces. 
 Dredge » little flour over these, put them into 
 a stewpan with an ounce of fresh butter, and let 
 them remain until they are lightly browned on 
 both sides, then pour over them as much warm 
 water -as will cover them ; add a bunch of pars- 
 ley and a small onion, and simmer gently until 
 the meat is three-parts cooked. Skim off the 
 fat, take out the onion and parsley, and mince 
 the latter finely. Return the parsley to the 
 gravy with a pint and a half of green peas. 
 Add a little pepper and salt, and simmer again 
 until the peas are tender. Place the meat on a 
 hot dish, pour the gravy and peas over it, and 
 serve as hot as possible. Time, an hour and a 
 half. Probable cost, 6d. to 8d. per pound. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 LAMB, BREAST OF, BRAISED (sometimes called 
 Lamb k la Milanaise). 
 Skin a breast of lamb, and scald it for two or 
 three minutes in boiling water. Drain it, and 
 plunge it at once into cold water. Peel a 
 lemon, cut it into thin slices, lay these on the 
 breast, and afterwards cover it all over with 
 bacon. Put the meat into a braising-pan or 
 stewpan, pour over it half a pint of nicely- 
 flavoured stock, and let it simmer very gently 
 until done enough. Have ready half a pound 
 of boiled macaroni, put it on a hot dish, place 
 the lamb upon it, and cover the whole with half 
 a pint of good brown gravy. The appearance of 
 the dish will be very much improved if the lamb 
 is glazed. If preferred, the macaroni may be 
 omitted, and spinach served with the lamb. 
 Time to simmer, until tender, from an hour 
 and a half to two hours. Probable cost, 6d. 
 to 8d. per pound. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 LAMB, BREAST OF, BRAISED (another way). 
 
 Braise a breast of lamb as in the last recipe. 
 When sufficiently cooked, take out the bones, 
 put the meat between two dishes, lay a weight 
 upon the top, and let it remain until cold. Cut 
 it into neat pieces, the size and shape of cutlets. 
 Let these be heated in some of the liquid in 
 which the meat was braised, glaze them, and 
 place them in a circle on a dish, with fine green 
 peas in the centre. 
 
 LAMB, BREAST OF, BROILED. 
 
 Trim a breast of lamb, and put it into a stew- 
 pan with as much stock as will just cover it. 
 Add a bunch of sweet herbs and an onion stuck 
 with one or two cloves, and let it simmer very 
 gently until it is sufficiently tender to remove 
 the bones, then take these out. Sprinkle a 
 little pepper and salt over the meat, brush it 
 over twice with egg and bread-crumbs, to which, 
 if liked, a little chopped parsley can be added. 
 Or a tea-spoonful of powdered herbs, and broil 
 it over a clear fire. When it is brightly browned 
 on one side, turn it carefully to brown the 
 other ; serve on a hot dish, and send the follow- 
 ing sauce to table in a tureen. Put two ounces 
 of loaf sugar and a quarter of a pint of vinegar 
 into a saucepan, let them simmer until the 
 sugar is dissolved, then add a pinch of cayenne, 
 and a wine-glassful of claret. Simmer a 
 quarter of an hour, and serve hot. Time, about 
 an hour and a half to simmer the lamb : it 
 should be broiled until brightly browned on 
 both sides. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 Probable cost, 6d. to 8d. per pound. 
 
 LAMB, BREAST OF, BROILED (another way). 
 
 Take two breasts of lamb, trim them neatly, 
 remove the tendons, and tie the joints to- 
 gether. Simmer them gently, as in the last 
 recipe, until the bones can be drawn out easily, 
 then remove these, sprinkle salt and pepper 
 over the meat, and place it between two dishes. 
 Put a weight on the top, and let it remain until 
 cold. When wanted for use, cut the meat into 
 neat pieces, brush these over twice with egg 
 and bread-crumbs, and broil them over a clear 
 fire until brightly browned on both sides. Dish 
 them neatly, and send brown gravy and tomato 
 or piquant sauce to table with them. Time, 
 eight or ten minutes to broil the lamb. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. Probable cost, 
 6d. to 8d. per pound. 
 
 LAMB, BREAST OF, COLLARED. 
 
 Take a ;fine breast of lamb, remove the bones 
 and gristle, and the outside skin, and lay it flat 
 on the table. Strew a little salt and pepper 
 over it, and spread upon it a mixture made as 
 follows. Wash and bone flve anchovies, pound 
 them in a mortar, and with them the yolks of 
 three hard-boiled eggs; add the thin rind of 
 half a lemon, finely minced, half a tea-spoonful 
 of powdered mace, the eighth of a nutmeg, 
 grated, six ounces of bread-crumbs, and a table- 
 spoonful of minced parsley. Mix thoroughly. 
 Roll the meat round and round, tie it in a 
 cloth, and bind it securely with tape. Boil it 
 gently. When done enough, place the Jrmb 
 under a weight, and do not remove the tapes 
 until quite cold. Time to boil, twenty minutes 
 for every pound. Probable cost, 6d. to 8d. per 
 pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 LAMB, BREAST OF, ROLLED. 
 
 Take the bones out of a breast of lamb, being 
 careful not to cut the upper skin. Put them 
 into a saucepan with an onion stuck with one 
 clove, and a pint of stock or water. Let them 
 simmer gently for gravy. Make a quarter of a 
 pound of good veal forcemeat, spread this upon 
 the under side of the breast, then roll it round 
 and round, and skewer it firmly and peatly. 
 
LAtVI 
 
 350 
 
 LAM 
 
 Put three ounces of fresh butter into a saucepan, 
 let it melt, then put in the breast of lamb, and 
 brown it brightly and equally all over. When 
 sufficiently coloured, strain the gravy from the 
 bones upon it, add a little peppei' and salt, 
 cover the saucepan closely, and simmer gently 
 until the meat is tender. A spoonful of brown- 
 ing may be added, if required. Spinach or 
 green peas may be served with this dish. Time 
 to stew, from one and a half to two hours, ac- 
 cording to the size. Probable cost, 6d. to 8d. 
 per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 LAMB, BREAST OF, STEWED. 
 
 Remove the skin from a breast of lamb, cut 
 the meat into neat pieces, strew a little pepper 
 and salt over these, place them in a stewpan 
 with as much weak stock as will cover them, and 
 let them simmer very gently until tender. 
 Drain the meat, and place it on a hot dish. 
 Thicken the gravy with a little flour and butter, 
 add a glass of sherry or any other light wine, 
 and boil for two or three minutes longer. 
 Stewed mushrooms or cucumbers are a great 
 improvement to this dish. Time to stew, about 
 an hour. Probable cost, 6d. to 8d. per pound. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 LAMB, BREAST OF, STEWED, WITH MUSH- 
 ROOMS. 
 
 Draw out the bones, melt a little butter in a 
 saucepan, put in the meat, and turn it about 
 until it is equally browned all over. Sprinkle 
 a little salt and pepper over it, and put with it 
 a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, a shallot (or 
 a small onion) finely minced, and the desired 
 quantity of mushrooms. Pour in enough stock 
 to barely cover the meat, and simmer very 
 gently for an hour. Add a few drops of lemon- 
 juice to the gravy ten minutes before lifting 
 the meat. Put the lamb on a hot dish, place 
 the mushrooms round it, and strain the gravy 
 over all. Probable cost, 6d. to 8d. per pound. 
 
 LAMB CHOPS AND POTATOES. 
 
 Egg and bread-crumb some neatly-trimmed 
 lamb chops, and fry them in the usual way (see 
 'Lamb Chops, Feied). For half a dozen chops 
 prepare a pound and a half of potatoes. Boil 
 and drain them, and beat them up with a fork, 
 then add a quarter of a pint of boiling broth, 
 or, failing this, milk. Beat well until quite 
 smooth, pass the potatoes through a sieve; put 
 them into a saucepan with two ounces of fresh 
 butter, and stir briskly until they are quite hot. 
 Pile the potatoes high in the centre of a hot dish, 
 and place the chops round them in an upright 
 position, one overlapping the other. Time, ten 
 or fifteen minutes to fry the chops ; forty min- 
 utes to prepare the potatoes. Probable cost of 
 chops. Is. per pound. Sufficient for three or 
 foUr persons. 
 LAMB CHOPS, BROILED. 
 
 Cut the chops about half an inch thick, trim 
 them neatly, flatten them, remove the super- 
 fluous fat, place them on a hot gridiron over a 
 clear fire, and let them remain until brightly 
 browned on both sides, turning them with 
 steak-tongs when required. Season them with 
 pepper and salt, and serve as hot as possible. 
 Garnish with parsley. Mashed potatoes, aspara- 
 gus, green peas, or spinach are usually served 
 
 with lamb chops. Time, eight or nine minutes 
 to broil. Sufficient, half a dozen chops for two 
 or three persons. Probable cost. Is. per pound. 
 
 LAMB CHOPS, FRIED. 
 
 Cut a loin or neck of lamb into chops from 
 half to three-quarters of an inch in thickness. 
 Dip each one into beaten egg, and afterwards 
 into bread-crumbs, flavoured as follows. Mix 
 three ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs with 
 a salt-spoonful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of 
 pepper, a table-spoonful of finely-chopped pars- 
 ley, and a quarter of a tea^spoonful of finely- 
 minced lemon-rind. Fry the chops in good 
 dripping until lightly browned on both sides. 
 Serve on a hot dish, and garnish with slices of 
 lemon or crisped parsley. Time to fry, ten to 
 fifteen minutes. Probable cost. Is. per pound. 
 Sufficient, half a dozen chops for two or three 
 persons. 
 LAMB CHOPS, FRIED, WITH PARMESAN. 
 
 Take some lamb chops from the loin or neck, 
 as in the last recipe. Mix the bread-crumbs with 
 a little grated Parmesan cheese, and dip the 
 chops first into clarified butter and the bread- 
 crumbs, and afterwards into beaten egg and 
 again in the bread-crumbs. Fry the chops as be- 
 fore until they are lightly browned on both sides, 
 dish them in a circle, and send tomato sauce to 
 table in a tureen. Time, ten to fifteen minutes. 
 Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient, halt a 
 dozen chops for two or three persons. 
 
 LAMB CHOPS, WITH CUCUMBER SAUCE. 
 
 Dip the chops in beaten egg and bread-crumbs, 
 and fry them (see Lamb Chops, Fried). When 
 nicely browned, arrange them in a circle on a 
 hot dish, and put in the centre a sauce prepared 
 as follows. Peel a young fresh cucumber, and 
 cut it into dice ; strew a little pepper and salt 
 over thesCi Melt three or four ounces of butter 
 in a saucepan, put in the cucumber, cover it 
 closely, and place it on a moderate fire, shaking 
 the pan frequently, to prevent sticking. When 
 it is steamed until the pieces of cucumber are 
 quite tender, but unbroken, serve them in the 
 centre of the dish. Time, eight or nine minutes 
 to boil the chops; about twenty minutes to stew 
 the cucumber. 
 
 LAMB CHOPS, WITH HERBS. 
 
 Cut some chops from the loin or neck of lamb. 
 Trim them neatly, and dip them first into clari- 
 fied butter, and afterwards into a mixture made 
 of equal quantities of chives and parsley. Fry 
 them in hot fat until they are nicely browned, 
 or broil them over a- clear fire, and serve them 
 on a. hot dish, garnished with crisped parsley. 
 The following sau9e may be sent to tame with 
 them. Take a sprig of thyme, two sprigs of 
 parsley, and three or four leaves of tarragon. 
 Strip the leaves from the stalks, wash them, and 
 chop them small. Mix them smoothly with a 
 piece of butter the size of an egg, and a dessert- 
 spoonful of flour, and pour over them half a 
 pint of boiling gravy. Simmer four or five 
 minutes over the fire, and rub out any lumps 
 that may form. Season with a little salt and 
 pepper, if required; add a table-spoonful of 
 strained lemon-juice, take the sauce off the fire, 
 and stir it into the well-beatten yolk of an egg. 
 Time, ten or fifteen minutes to cook the chops; 
 
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 351 
 
 LAM 
 
 a quarter of an hour to prepare the gravy. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient, half a dozen 
 chops for three persons. 
 
 LAMB, COLD (en Blanquette). 
 
 Take some cold lamb, mince it finely, and 
 season it with a little salt and pepper. Suppos- 
 ing there to be a pound and a half of cold lamb, 
 divide six large mushrooms into slices. Pry 
 these in three ounces of butter for five minutes, 
 then pour over them half a pint of good veal 
 stock, mixed smoothly with a tea-spoonful of 
 flour, and simmer gently for half an hour. Now 
 add the minced lamb, and the well-beaten yolks 
 of two eggs mixed with four table-spoonfuls of 
 cream. Let these heat very gently, stirring all 
 the time. In ten minutes the lamb will be ready 
 to serve. Garnish the dish with slices of lemon. 
 Probable cost. Is., exclusive of the cold lamb. 
 Suificient for three or four persons. 
 
 LAMB, COLD ROAST, STEW OF. 
 
 Cold roast lamb is so very nice with a little 
 mint sauce and mashed potatoes that it seems 
 a pity to warm it up. When it is preferred hot, 
 however, the following is an excellent method of 
 preparing it. Cut the cold meat into thin 
 slices, trim these neatly, and season them rather 
 highly with pepper and a, little salt. Dip each 
 piece in finely-grated bread-crumbs which have 
 been moistened in gravy, and strew over them 
 a spoonful or two of finely-minced pickles, such 
 as gherkins, walnuts, etc. Pour over the whole 
 two table-spoonfuls of pickle vinegar and four 
 table-spoonfuls of the gravy of the meat. Put 
 the dish in the oven, and let it remain until 
 quite hot. Garnish with browned potato balls. 
 Serve the meat in the dish in which it was 
 heated, which may be placed in another covered 
 with a napkin. Time, about half an hour to 
 heat. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold 
 meat. Suflicie"nt, two pounds of cold roast meat 
 for three or four persons. 
 
 LAMB, COOKED WHOLE (sometimes called Lamb 
 a PEspagnole). 
 On the Continent lambs are occasionally 
 roasted entire, something like sucking pigs, and 
 are very delicate and good. It is evident that 
 for this the animal must be very young, not 
 more than five or six weeks old. The only pre- 
 paration required is to remove the skin, take 
 out the fry, and cut off the feet ; then cover the 
 lamb with slices of bacon fastened on with small 
 string, put it down to a clear fire, and let it 
 remain until done enough. Take the bacon off 
 about a quarter of an hour before the lamb is 
 taken up, so that it may brown, and take care 
 that it is equally cooked all over. Squeeze the 
 juice of a lemon over it before serving, and send 
 bread sauce and brown gravy to table in a 
 tureen. Time to roast, two hours and a half or 
 three hours. Probable cost, uncertain, lambs 
 suitable for this dish being seldom offered for 
 sale. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. 
 
 LAMB CUTLETS. 
 
 Take the best end of a well-hung neck of lamb. 
 Saw it off two or three inches from the top of 
 the bones, leaving the cutlets about four inches 
 long. Scrape off the meat from the end of the 
 bone, so as to leave an inch quite bare. Chop 
 off the thick part of the chinebone, and pare 
 
 away the flat bones which adhere to the meat and 
 spoil the shape. Flatten the cutlets with a cutlet 
 bat. A butcher will always shape the cutlets if 
 requested to do so. They may be either broiled 
 plaittly or egged, bread-crumbed, and fried. 
 Green peas, asparagus, spinach, and mashed 
 potatoes are all favourite accompaniments of 
 lamb cutlets, and an infinite variety of sauces 
 may be served with them. The sauce frequently 
 gives its name to the dish, as Cutlets a la 
 Poulette, Cutlets a la Kobert, which names 
 simply mean cutlets served with Robert or 
 Poulette sauce. There is no occasion for any 
 waste in shaping cutlets, as the bones can be 
 stewed down for gravy and the fat melted for 
 frying. 
 
 LAMB CUTLETS (k la Jardiniere). 
 
 Trim neatly twelve cutlets (or any other de- 
 sired number). Melt two ounces of butter, and 
 dip the cutlets in on both sides. Sprinkle a 
 little pepper and salt on them, and cover them 
 with bread-crumbs ; then grill them over a clear 
 fire for five or six minutes, turning them every 
 minute. As soon as they feel firm they are done. 
 Pile up the vegetables composing the jardiniere, 
 garnish in the centre of a hot dish (see Jae- 
 dinieke). and stand the cutlets upright all 
 round. Slip a little paper frill on each bone, 
 and serve at once. 
 
 LAMB CUTLETS {k la Princesse). 
 
 Trim and shape some lamb cutlets neatly, and 
 fry them plainly (see Lamb Chops, Fbied), let- 
 ting them be rather underdone than other- 
 wise. When half cold dip each cutlet into some 
 good melted butter, flavoured with mushrooms. 
 Place them upon ice to set the sauce, and after- 
 wards egg, bread-crumb, and fry them in the 
 usual way, and serve with asparagus, green peas, 
 or any other vegetables. Good white sauce 
 should be sent to table in a tureen. Time, 
 twenty minutes altogether to cook the cutlets — 
 ten minutes each time. Probable cost. Is. 
 per pound. Sufficient, half a dozen for three 
 persons. 
 
 LAMB CUTLETS (4 la Princesse), another way. 
 
 Take a table-spoonful of each of the following 
 ingredients, all finely minced: — Parsley, shal- 
 lots, mushrooms, and lean ham. Put these into 
 a stewpan with an ounce of fresh butter, and 
 stir them over the fire for five minutes. Add a 
 quarter of a pint of sauce, a little pepper and 
 salt, half a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, 
 a dessert-spoonful of strained lemon-juice, 
 three grates of nutmeg, and the yolks of two 
 eggs. Stir the sauce over the fire until, it 
 thickens, but it must not boil. Partially fry 
 the cutlets, as in the last'recipe ; when nearly 
 cold dip them into the above preparation, and 
 place them upon ice until the sauce is set. Dip 
 the cutlets in egg and afterwards in bread- 
 crumbs; fry, and serve them with a puree of 
 spinach or green peas. Time, twenty minutes to 
 fry the cutlets — ten minutes each time. The 
 above quantity of sauce is sufficient for a dozen 
 cutlets. Probable cost. Is. per pound. 
 
 LAMB CUTLETS (k la Robert). 
 
 Mince three or four. large onions very finely; 
 put them into a stewpan with three ounces of 
 fresh butter, and brown them lightly over a 
 
LAM 
 
 352 
 
 LAM 
 
 fentle fire. Shake the pan about to prevent 
 urning. Add a table-spoonful and a half of 
 vinegar, and boll all together for three or four 
 minutes. Mix a table-spoonful of flour smoothly 
 with half a pint of good, nicely-flavoured stock ; 
 add these to the vinegar, etc., and simmer gently 
 for a quarter of an hour. Just before serving 
 stir a dessert-spoonful of mixed mustard and a 
 dessert-spoonful of Worcester sauce in with the 
 rest, andT keep the whole quite hot until the cut- 
 lets are ready. Trim these neatly, dip them 
 twice, first into clarified butter and egg-crumbs, 
 and afterwards into beaten egg and bread- 
 crumbs, and fry them in the usual way 
 until they are lightly browned on both sides. 
 Dish them in a circle, with the sauce poured 
 over them. Time, ten or fifteen minutes to fry 
 the cutlets. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Suf- 
 ficient for three or four persons. 
 
 LAMB CUTLETS {k la Soubise). 
 
 Trim the cutlets, lard them crosswise (see 
 Labd, To). Put one ounce of butter in a saute- 
 pan, or stewpan, and when hot put in the cut- 
 lets, and cook them over a brisk fire, turning 
 them two or three times. Dish them up in a 
 circle on a thin border of mashed potatoes. 
 Pour round them a good brown sauce well 
 reduced, and serve with Soubise sauce. (See 
 Soubise Sauce.) 
 
 lamb cutlets and spinach. 
 
 Pick the stalks from two pounds of spinach 
 and wash it in several waters. Let it drain, then 
 put it into plenty of boiling water, in v/hich 
 about a table-spoonful of salt has been thrown, 
 keep pressing it down with a wooden spoon, and 
 let it boil very quickly. Drain and squeeze the 
 water from it, and chop it very small. Put it 
 into a saucepan with a little salt and pepper, 
 one ounce of butter, and two table-spoonfuls or 
 half a gill of thick cream or rich gravy. Stir it 
 without ceasing over the fire with a wooden 
 spoon until it is quite hot throughout, and the 
 moisture is absorbed. , Keep it hot until the 
 cutlets are ready. These may be trimmed, 
 egged, bread-crumbed, and broiled or fried in 
 the usual way (see Lamb Chops, Beoiled, and 
 Lamb Chops, Fried). Press the spinach into a 
 mould, turn it on a hot dish, and placq the 
 cutlets round it in an upright position, one over- 
 lapping the other. Time, ten minutes to boil 
 the spinach. Probable cost, cutlets. Is. per 
 pound; spinach, 2d. per pound. Sufficient, 
 about two pounds of spinach will be required 
 for half a, dozen chops. 
 
 LAMB CUTLETS, COLD. 
 
 When a loin or any other joint of lamb has 
 been under-dressed, it is a good plan to divide 
 it into cutlets of a neat shape and fully three- 
 quarters of an inch in thickness, to dip these in 
 beaten egg, strew over nicely-flavoured bread- 
 crumbs, and fry or broil tJhem until lightly 
 browned on both sides. As there is a danger that 
 the meat will be dry when it is dressed the 
 second time, care should be taken not only to 
 cook the cutlets over a good fire, but also to 
 dip them into a little clarified butter before 
 broiling them. Time, five or six minutes to 
 cook. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient, 
 half a dozen cutlets for three persons. 
 
 LAMB CUTLETS, FRIED, WITH PEAS. 
 
 Cut and trim the cutlets, egg and bread-crumb 
 them carefully, and fry them in plenty of boil- 
 ing fat. Turn them on to kitchen paper to drain, 
 and decorate each with a paper frill. Boil some 
 green peas until tender, drain them, add a piece 
 of butter, and pepper and salt, and heap them 
 in the centre of the dish, with the cutlets ar- 
 ranged round. Spinach or asparagus tips may 
 take the place of the peas. Probable cost. Is. 
 per pound. 
 
 LAMB CUTLETS, GRILLED. 
 
 Cut the required number of cutlets from the 
 best end of a neck, and pare and trim them 
 neatly. Place on a gridiron, which has been 
 previously rubbed with mutton (or lamb) fat, 
 over a good clear fire, and cook for from five to 
 ten minutes, according to the thickness of the 
 cutlets and the strength of the fire, turning them 
 every minute. Season them well with salt and 
 pepper. Put a paper frill on each cutlet bone, 
 and dish them up in a circle on a border of 
 mashed potatoes. Fill the centre with nicely- 
 cooked and flavoured green peas, pour a little 
 hot gravy round the base of the dish, and serve. 
 Probable cost. Is. per pound. 
 
 LAMB CUTLETS OR CHOPS STEWED IN THEIR 
 OWN GRAVY. 
 
 Take a thick iron saucepan — if possible, one 
 sufficiently large to take all the cutlets in one 
 layer — put a little cold water in it, though not 
 nearly sufficient to cover the cutlets, and after 
 dipping these into cold water, peppering, and 
 afterwards flouring them, put them into the pan, 
 place them on a moderate fire, and let them 
 simmer as gently as possible until they are done 
 enough, lirow a tea-spoonful of salt over them 
 as soon as they begin to simmer, and serve all 
 the gravy in the dish with them. The great 
 secret of stewing cutlets in this way is to let 
 them simmer gently. If boiled quickly there 
 will be no gravy left when they are to be taken 
 off, and the meat will be hard. Skim the fat 
 off carefully before serving. Time to simmer, 
 an hour. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Suf- 
 ficient, half a dozen cutlets for two or three 
 persons. 
 
 LAM3, FILLETS OF. 
 
 Cut the meat from the bones of the neck, and 
 trim off the superfluous fat. Cut into seven or 
 eight pieces, flatten each, and shape into round 
 fillets. Arrange a quarter of a pound of cooked 
 rice in the centre of a round dish, and keep it 
 in a warm place. Dip the prepared fillets in 
 beaten egg, then in seasoned flour, and fry to 
 a golden colour in boiling butter. Arrange 
 them neatly round the rice. Pour a little good 
 brown sauce round the base of the dish, and put 
 a table-spoonful of supreme sauce (see Supkkme 
 Sauce) on each fillet. Probable cost. Is. per 
 pound. 
 
 LAMB, FORE-QUARTER OF, TO ROAST. 
 
 This joint can scarcely be too fresh when 
 dressed. Remove the scrag, the shankbone, and 
 the chinebone, and crack the ribs half-way be- 
 tween the edge of the breast and the spine. 
 Lay the meat down to a quick fire, and baste 
 plentifully from the time of its being warmed 
 through to that when it is ready for the table. 
 
ILAM 
 
 353 
 
 UIM 
 
 Like all young meat, lamb should be very 
 thoroughly cooked. About ten minutes before it 
 is taken up dredge a little flour over it, and 
 froth and brown it nicely. Serve the lamb with 
 a cut paper ruffle on the shankbone, and send 
 a little of its own gravy in the dish with it. 
 
 LAME CPTLETS. 
 
 Mint sauce and salad generally accompany this 
 dish. Time, a fore-jjuarter of lamb, weighing 
 ten pounds, will require from two hours to two 
 hours and a half. The weather and the strength 
 of the fire often cause a difference. Probable 
 cost, lid. per pound. Sufficient for eight or 
 nine persons. 
 
 LAMB, FORE-QUARTER OF, TO ROAST (another 
 way). 
 Prepare the joint as in the last recipe. Skewer 
 three or four slices of bacon securely to the outer 
 side, brush three ounces of clarified butter over 
 the inner part, and strew upon it a thick cover- 
 ing of finely-grated bread-crumbs, seasoned with 
 pepper and salt, and a little finely-minced 
 parsley. Cover the whole with a large sheet 
 of buttered paper, and lay the lamb down to a 
 clear even fire. When nearly done, remove the 
 paper and bacon, baste the meat with yolk of 
 egg mixed with the gravy, throw some more 
 bread-crumbs over it, and let it remain until 
 nicely-browned. Squeeze the juice of a lemon 
 over it before serving, and send mint sauce 
 to table with it. Time, from two hours to 
 two hours and a half. Probable cost, lid. 
 per pound. Sufficient for eight or nine 
 persons. 
 
 LAMB, FRICANDEAU OF. 
 
 Take a breast of lamb, and lard it in the usual 
 way (see Labd, To), with three strips of fat 
 bacon. Put it into a stewpan with two bunches 
 of parsley, a small bunch of thyme and mar- 
 joram, a small bunch of green onions, six or 
 eight peppercorns, a bay-leaf, one or two slices 
 of fat bacon, and as much boiling water as will 
 barely cover the meat. Simmer gently for half 
 an hour; then take it out, and boil the gravy 
 quickly until it is reduced to one half. Put the 
 meat back again, skim the fat carefully from the 
 liquid, and simmer gently once more until a 
 glaze is seen on the top of the meat. Drain it 
 upon a dish, and keep it hot until the sauce is 
 reduced to a glaze. Brush the lamb over with 
 two or three coats of this, and serve it upon 
 dressed vegetables, such as sorrel, spinach, or 
 green peas. Time, from three to four hours. 
 Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient for 
 three or four persons. 
 
 LAMB, FRICASSEE OF. 
 
 Take a breast of lamb, cut it into small pieces 
 about an inch and a half square, season these 
 with a little pepper and salt, and put them into 
 a stewpan with an onion stuck with four cloves, 
 a sprig of basil, two bay-leaves, and three ounces 
 of fresh butter. Cover the stewpan closely, and 
 let it steam gently for half an hour, shaking it 
 occasionally to prevent sticking. Pour over it 
 a pint of boiling water, cover closely once more, 
 and simmer for an hour. At the end of that 
 time strain the sauce, and thicken it with a table- 
 spoonful of flour, mixed smoothly with a little 
 water; stir into it three dessert-spoonfuls of 
 chopped capers; boil all two or three minutes 
 longer, and serve on a hot dish. Garnish with 
 parsley and slices of lemon. Time to stew, 
 about an hour and a half. Probable cost, 
 lOd. per pound. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 LAMB, HIND-QUARTER OF. 
 
 Take a. hind-quarter of lamb, saw off the 
 knuckle-bone, and wrap the joint in oiled or 
 buttered paper. Put the roasting hook through 
 the shank end, and place the joint before a clear 
 fire. Baste it frequently with good dripping. 
 Twenty minutes before it is taken down dredge 
 a little flour over it, brown it nicely, and place 
 it on a hot dish, with two or three table-spoon- 
 fuls of good gravy with it, and the rest in a 
 tureen. Mint sauce should always accompany 
 roast lamb. A cut lemon should be sent to table 
 with this joint, and an empty dish upon which 
 the carver may place the leg when it is severed 
 from the loin. Time, two hours and a half, or 
 twenty minutes to each pound, and twenty 
 minutes over. Young white meat must be thor- 
 oughly cooked. Probable cost, lid. per pound. 
 Sufficient for eight or ten persons. 
 
 LAMB, LARDED. 
 
 Lard the surface of a leg of lamb with thin 
 slices of fat bacon (see Labd, To), cover it with 
 buttered paper, and put it down to an even fire. 
 Half an hour before it is done enough, take off 
 the paper and sprinkle over the joint finely- 
 grated bread-crumbs, seasoned with a little 
 salt, pepper, and pounded mace, and let it 
 remain until it is brightly browned. Squeeze 
 the juice of a lemon over it before serving, and 
 send mint sauce to table. Time to roast, 
 twenty minutes for each pound, and twenty 
 minutes over. Sufficient for four or five per- 
 sons. Probable cost, is. per pound. 
 
 LAMB, LEG OF, BOILED. 
 
 Put a plump leg of lamb into as much boiling 
 water as will barely cover it. Let it boil a few 
 minutes, then add a little cold water; draw the 
 pan to the side of the fire, remove the scum care- 
 fully as it rises, and afterwards simmer gently 
 until done enough. A tea-spoonful of salt should 
 be thrown into the water when the lamb is half 
 cooked. Place the meat on a hot dish, garnish 
 it with tufts of boiled cauliflower or carrots, and 
 send caper sauce to table with it — a little poured 
 over the joint, and the rest in a tureen. The loin 
 may be cut into steaks, fried, and served round 
 garnished with parsley. Time to boil, a quarter 
 of an hour for each pound, counting from the 
 time the water boils the second time. Probable 
 
LAM 
 
 354 
 
 LAM 
 
 cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 LAMB, LEG OF, ROAST. 
 
 Put the Iamb down to a clear, even flre. 
 Baste it plentifully with good dripping, and 
 twenty minutes before it is ready to serve, bring 
 it nearer to the fire to brown it nicely. Place 
 the lamb on a hot dish, pour over it a small 
 quantity of gravy niade from the contents of the 
 dripping-pan, and send a little more to table in 
 a tureen. Mint sauce and green peas, or boiled 
 cauliflower, usually accompany this dish. Time 
 to roast, twenty minutes to the pound. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. 
 
 LAMB, LEG OF, STEWED. 
 
 Put a leg of lamb, weighing about five pounds, 
 into a deep baking-pan with two turnips, a 
 carrot, a leek, a clove of garlic, three tea-spoon- 
 fuls of salt, half a tea-spoonful of cayenne 
 pepper, and as much water as will cover it. Put 
 it in a moderate oven, and let it remain for an 
 hour after it begins to simmer. At the end of 
 that time, put with it a pint of young green 
 peas, a spng of mint, and a small lump of 
 sugar, and let it stew half an hour longer. Serve 
 it on a hot dish, with the vegetables round it, 
 a little of the gravy poured over, and the rest 
 in a tureen. Probable cost. Is. per pound. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 LAMB, LEG OF, STEWED, WITH BECHAMEL, 
 OR WHITE SAUCE. 
 
 Put a leg of lamb into a convenient-sized 
 stewpan, and with it two or three veal-bones. 
 Cover it with boiling water, bring it gently 
 again to the boil, and remove the scum carefully 
 as it rises. Add two large carrots, two bunches 
 of parsley, one bunch of thyme, and half a dozen 
 peppercorns, and simmer very gently for an hour 
 and a half. Take half a pint of the gravy, and 
 mix it with half a pint of good cream. Add a 
 table-spoonful of flour smoothly mixed with a 
 little water, a bunch of parsley, a dozen small 
 mushrooms, and a tea-spoonful of salt, and boil 
 slowly for an hour. Put the lamb on a hot dish, 
 strain the bechamel over it, and garnish with 
 slices of lemon and parsley. Boiled cauliflower 
 or carrots are an excellent accompaniment to 
 this dish. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Suf- 
 ficient for five persons. 
 
 LAMB, LIVER OF, TO FRY. 
 
 Soak the liver in cold water for half an hour. 
 Cut it into thin slices, and boil these for ten 
 minutes. Place them in a dry cloth to drain off 
 the water, strew a little pepper on them, dredge 
 flour over them, and fry in hot fat until they 
 are brightly browned. If the flavour is liked, an 
 onion finely minced may be fried with them, or 
 a few rashers of bacon. Garnish with parsley, 
 and send good brown gravy to table with the 
 meat. Time, ten minutes to boil, eight minutes 
 to fry. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient, 
 one pound for two or three persons. 
 
 LAMB, LOIN OF, BRAISED. 
 
 Take a loin of lamb, skewer down the flap, and 
 cover it all over with slices of fat bacon. Put 
 it into a braising-pan, or, failing this, a sauce- 
 pan, as nearly as possible its own size, with a 
 
 closely-fitting lid, and pour over it a pint of 
 good stock. Add half a dozen young carrots, a 
 bunch of young onions, a blade of mace, two 
 bunches of parsley, one bunch of thyme, a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and three or four peppercorns. 
 Simmer very gently until the meat is done 
 enough. Take it out, drain and dry it, reduce 
 the sauce to a glaze, and brush this over the 
 meat. Serve the lamb on a hot dish, and with 
 it some green peas, spinach, or asparagus. Time, 
 two hours. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 
 LAMB, LOIN OF, STEWED. 
 
 Take a loin of lamb, skewer down the flap, and 
 put it into a^ saucepan, nearly its own size, with 
 half a pint of good unseasoned stock, three 
 ounces of butter, a dessert-spoonful of chopped 
 mint-leaves, the strained juice of half a lemon, 
 half a tea-spoonful of salt, and a quarter of a 
 tea-spoonful of pepper. Cover the pan closely, 
 and simmer gently for an hour and a half. Take 
 out the meat, boil the sauce quickly for a few 
 minutes, brown the meat before the fire or on 
 the gridiron, serve as hot as possible, and pour 
 the sauce over it. Probable cost. Is. per pound. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 LAMB, MINCED, AND PEAS. 
 
 Cut about one pound of cold lamb into half- 
 inch dice, removing all skin and most of the 
 fat. Boil and drain half a pint of green peas. 
 Have ready in a saucepan half a pint of bechamel 
 sauce (see Bechamel Saucb) at boUing point. 
 Put in the minced lamb and the peas, season 
 with pepper and salt, and let them remain at 
 the side of the fire, without boiling, until the 
 meat is thoroughly hot, which will take about 
 twenty minutes. 
 
 LAMB, NECK OF, BOILED. 
 
 Plunge a neck of lamb into as much boiling 
 water as will barely cover it. Let it boil for five 
 minutes, then pour in a small cupful of cold 
 water, draw it to the side of the fire, remove the 
 scum as it rises, and simmer very gently for one 
 hour. Put the lamb on a hot dish, pour over 
 it half a pint of parsley sauce, and serve as hot 
 as possible. Turnips and carrots should be sent 
 to table with it. Probable cost, 9d. per pound. 
 Sufficient for three persons. 
 
 LAMB, NECK OF, STEWED. 
 
 Joint a neck of lamb, and put it in a stewpan 
 with a carrot, turnip, and onion sliced; add 
 sufficient stock made from mutton bones to just 
 cover it, or the liquor from boiled mutton will 
 do. Put in a table-spoonful of chopped capers, 
 and an ounce of rice, cover, and cook an hour 
 and a half or thereabouts very gently. Put the 
 meat and vegetables in a dish, boil the gravy 
 quickly, add a little brown roux («ee Boux, 
 Bbown) and seasoning ; boil up again, and pour 
 it over the meat. Probable cost, lOd. or lid. per 
 pound. 
 
 LAMB, NOISETTES OF. 
 
 Remove the meat from the loin, pare off the 
 superfluous fat, and cut into about eight or nine 
 neat noisettes, or small fillets. Melt one ounce 
 of butter in a saute-pan, and cook the noisettes 
 over a quick fire until done, but not over-cooked. 
 Season both before and after cooking. Tak6 a 
 
LAM 
 
 355 
 
 LAM 
 
 mimber of artichoke bottoms, one for each 
 noisette, heat them in a gill of stock. Chop up 
 a dozen or more small button mushrooms, and 
 stew them in butter, then add the juice of half 
 a lemon and two tea-spoonfuls of chopped herbs. 
 Season to taste, cook for a few minutes, and fill 
 the artichokes with this. Dress the noisettes 
 on a hot dish, put an artichoke on top of each, 
 and pour a good brown sauce round the base of 
 the dish. 
 
 LAMB PATTIES. 
 
 Mince some cold lamb very finely (removing 
 all skin and gristle) also a small onion ; add 
 pepper and salt to taste, and a few bread-crumbs. 
 Make as many rounds of pastry as will be re- 
 quired, put some of the mince in half the 
 number, moisten with good gravy, and put the 
 other rounds on top, pinching the edges to- 
 gether. Plunge into boiling fat, fry for ten 
 minutes, and then drain. Dish up on a warm 
 serfiette, and garnish with parsley. 
 
 LAMB PIE. 
 
 A lamb pie may be made either of the neck, 
 breast, or loin of lamb, and of these the breast 
 will be found to be much the best. Take about 
 two pounds of meat with the bones, cut it up 
 into neat pieces, and sprinkle over these a des- 
 sert-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of white 
 pepper, and a tea-spoonful of finely-minced 
 parsley. Put them in a pie-dish, take out some 
 of the bones to stew down for gravy, and pour 
 over them half a quarter of a pint of cold water. 
 Line the edges of the dish with a good crust, 
 cover it with the same, and bake in a moderate 
 oven. When the pie is sufSciently cooked, pour 
 in a little good stock or meat jelly. Lamb pie 
 is usually eaten cold. Time to bake, an hour 
 and a half. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 LAMB PUDDING. 
 
 Line a shallow, thick-rimmed basin with 
 pastry about half an inch in thickness, and leave 
 it half an inch over the edge. Take the large 
 bones out of two pounds of a breast of lamb, 
 cut the meat into convenient-sized pieces; sea- 
 sou these lightly with pepper and salt, place 
 them in layers in the pudding, and strew a 
 table-spoonful of loose veal stuffing over each 
 layer. Put about a gill of water or mutton 
 broth over the whole, lay a pastry cover on the 
 top, moisten the edge, and draw it over care- 
 fully. Dip a pudding-cloth into boiling water, 
 dredge a little flour over, tie the basin rather 
 loosely in it, plunge it into boiling water, and 
 boil from two to three hours. Let it stand two 
 or three minutes before being turned out. 
 Place it on a hot dish, pour half a pint of pars- 
 ley sauce over it, and serve at once. Probable 
 cost, 2s. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 LAMB, ROLL OF. 
 
 Take three pounds of lean lamb, and mince it 
 very finely with a pound of fat bacon. Mix 
 with it a tea-spoonful of white pepper, the 
 grated rind of a lemon, the eighth o^ a nutmeg, 
 grated, a finely-minced shallot, half a tea- 
 spoonful of powdered thyme, and salt according 
 to taste. The quantity of salt will depend 
 upon the condition of the bacon. When thor- 
 oughly mixed, roll the seasoned meat into a 
 
 neat shape, something like a roly-poly pudding-; 
 cover it with a thick fold of buttered paper, 
 and place over this a coarse crust made of flour 
 and water. Put it in a moderate oven, and 
 when cooked enough, remove the paste and 
 • paper, and serve the roll of lamb on a hot dish, 
 with tomato or cucumber sauce round it, and 
 green peas, spinach, or asparagus as an accom- 
 paniment. Time, two hours to bake. Probable 
 cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 LAMB, SADDLE OF. 
 
 A saddle of lamb is an elegant and excellent 
 joint for a small party. Cover it with buttered 
 paper, and lay it down to a clear fire. Baste it 
 well, and when nearly cooked enough, remove 
 the paper, dredge a little flour over. the meat, 
 .and baste it again until it is nicely browned. 
 Mint sauce should be sent to table with it, and 
 green peas, spinach, cauliflowers, or potatoes 
 are very suitable as accompaniments. Time to 
 roast, about two hours or more, according to the 
 size of the joint. Sufficient for eight or nine 
 persons. Probable cost. Is. per pound. 
 
 LAMB, SADDLE OF, BONED, ROLLED, AND 
 BRAISED, 
 
 Take all th~e bones from a saddle of lamb — if 
 possible, without injuring the upper part of the 
 skin. Lay the meat on the table, skin down- 
 wards, and spread over it a pound of good veal 
 forcemeat. Roll it round and round, bind it 
 securely, with plenty of tape, skewer slices of 
 fat bacon over it, and put it into a braising- 
 pan, with a pint and a half of white stock, three 
 carrots, two onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, 
 two or three sticks of celery, and a dozen pepper- 
 corns. Simmer gently for an hour and a half. 
 Take out the meat, drain it, and, without re- 
 moving the tape, place it between two dishes ; 
 put a heavy weight upon the top, and let it 
 remain until it is quite cold and firm. Cover it 
 with a coating of white sauce ; let this stiffen, 
 then brush tl^roU over with beaten egg, and 
 cover it with I^ht bread-raspings mixed with a 
 tea-spoonful of grated Parmesan. Put the sad- 
 dle in a moderate oven half an hour before it 
 is wanted, that it may be heated through, and 
 serve it on a hot dish. Garnish with dressed 
 vegetables. Instead of being egged and bread- 
 crumbed, the saddle may, after pressing, be 
 heated in a little of the stock in which it was 
 cooked, and served with dressed vegetables and 
 AUemande sauce. Probable cost. Is. per pound. 
 Sufficient for nine or ten persons. 
 LAMB, SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Mint sauce is usually served with lamb. To 
 make it, strip the leaves from some fresh 
 young mint, wash and dry them well, and chop 
 them as finely as possible. Put them into a 
 tureen, and cover them with powdered sugar to 
 the proportion of a table-spoonful of sugar to 
 one and a half of mint. Let these remain for 
 half an hour, then pour over them three table- 
 spoonfuls of vinegar. If after a trial this sauce 
 is found to be too sweet, a less proportion of 
 sugar can be used; but it has been very gener- 
 ally approved when prepared as above. The 
 vinegar is sometimes strained from the mint- 
 leaves before being sent to table. Time, a few 
 minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 3d. Suf- 
 ficient for three or four persons. 
 
LAM 
 
 356 
 
 LAM 
 
 LAMB'S FEET. 
 
 Clean, and wash well, and scald six lamb's 
 feet. Remove the shankbones very carefully, so 
 as not to break the skin, then let the feet soak 
 for two or three hours in cold water. Drain 
 them, put them into a stewpan, with as much 
 cold water as will barely cover them, and two 
 table-spoonfuls of strained lemon-juice. Let 
 them boil for ten or fifteen minutes, then throw 
 them into cold water, and when they are quite 
 cool cut off the bones from the cleft of the foot, 
 and the little piece of hair that lies in it. 
 Afterwards, stew them for three hours in some 
 white stock, and with them an onion, a bunch 
 of parsley, and thyme, three or four mushrooms, 
 half a dozen peppercorns, a blade of mace, and 
 s, slice of lean ham. Strain the sauce, thickeji. 
 it with flour and butter, and add half a pint of 
 new milk. Let the feet boil up once more in it, 
 and add, the last thing, a tea-spoonful of lemon- 
 juice. Serve on a hot dish, and send peas or 
 asparagus to table. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 LAMB'S FEET (another way). 
 
 Prepare and stew the feet as in the last 
 recipe. When quite tender, remove the bones, 
 roll the feet, dip them in egg and bread-crumbs, 
 and fry them. Or, if preferred, spread a mix- 
 ture prepared as follows over a. dish, let it get 
 quite hot in the oven, then place the rolled feet 
 upon it, and serve them dry. In either case, 
 sauce (Robert or supreme sauce) should be sent 
 to table in a tureen. For the mixture, take 
 four table-spoonfuls of finely-grated bread- 
 crumbs, season tTiem with pepper and salt, rub 
 into them a piece of butter the size of a large 
 egg, and mix with them, first, a table-spoonful 
 of grated cheese, and afterwards the yolks of 
 three eggs well beaten. Time, three hours to 
 stew the feet, ten minutes to fry them. 
 
 LAMB'S FRY. 
 
 Take a pound or a pound and'lt half of lamb's 
 fry, wash it thoroughly in cold water, then set 
 it in a saucepan, cover it with cold water, and 
 let it boil for three or four minutes. Take it 
 out, drain and dry it in a. cloth. Mix a tea- 
 spoonful of flour very smoothly with a little 
 cold water, and add to it a small pinch of salt 
 and pepper, six tea-spoonfuls of water, and a 
 well-beaten egg. Dip each piece of the fry into 
 this mixture, then fry it in three ounces of hot 
 dripping until it is brightly browned on both 
 sides, without being at all burnt. If preferred, 
 the fry may be cooked without the batter, or 
 beaten egg and bread-crumbs may be substi- 
 tuted for it. Time, about twelve minutes. The 
 liver should be put in two or three minutes 
 after the rest. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. 
 Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 LAMB'S FRY ranother way). 
 
 Soak the fry in cold water for half an hour. 
 Drain it, put it into a saucepan with as much 
 cold water as will cover it, and add two or 
 three green onions, a carrot, a bunch of parsley, 
 and a small sprig of thyme. Simmer very 
 •gently for an hour and a half, then pour both 
 gfravy and fry into a bowl, and let all get cold 
 together. Drain and dry the meat, cut it into 
 neat slices, dip half of these into beaten egg. 
 
 and afterwards into bread-crumbs, and, a few 
 minutes before serving, fry them in hot butter 
 until they are lightly browned on both sides. 
 Strain the gravy, put it into a saucepan, with 
 an ounce of fresh butter rolled in flour, a finely- 
 minced shallot, three table-spoonfuls of finely- 
 grated bread-crumbs, a tea-spoonful of chopped 
 parsley, halt a tea-spoonful of salt, and a pinch 
 of pepper. Simmer for half an hour. Stir in 
 all the meat which is not intended to. be fried 
 first, cutting it as small as possible, and, while 
 it is heating, fry the slices of liver, etc., in fat. 
 Put these in a hot dish, squeeze the juice of a 
 lemon over them, pour the sauce into the centre, 
 and serve as hot as possible. Garnish with thin 
 rashers of fried bacon. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 LAMB'S HEAD AND MINCE. 
 
 Scald, scrape, and wash the head thoroughly, 
 and put both it and the fry into a stewpan, with 
 a large onion stuck with three cloves, two 
 bunches of parsley, a bunch of thyme, a carrot, 
 a turnip, a bay-leaf, half a dozen peppercorns, 
 a table-spoonful of salt, and two quarte of cold 
 water. Let them boil up quickly, remove the 
 scum as it rises, and simmer gently for an hour. 
 Divide the head, take out the tongue and brains, 
 and fold the two halves in a cloth to dry. Mince 
 the heart, liver, half of the lights, the brains 
 and the tongue (first taking joff the skin), very 
 finely. Season with a tea-spoonful of salt, half 
 a tea-spoonful of pepper, and three or four 
 grates of a nutmeg ; put the meat into a sauce- 
 pan with three-quarters of a pint of the strained 
 gravy thickened with three ounces of butter 
 rolled in flour, and add a table-spoonful of 
 mushroom ketchup. Cover the saucepan closely 
 and simmer gently for half an hour; stir every 
 now and then, to prevent the contents sticking. 
 Brush the head over with beaten egg, sprinkle 
 finely-grated bread-crumbs over it, and bake in 
 a moderate oven, or place it before the fire, 
 and let it remain until lightly browned, basting 
 liberally with good dripping. Place the head 
 in the middle of a, hot dish, put the mince 
 round, and garnish with parsley. The juice of 
 a lemon should be squeezed over the head at the 
 last moment. IHme, two hours. Probable cost, 
 3s. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. 
 
 LAMB'S HEAD AND SPINACH. 
 
 (See Lamb Stove.) 
 
 LAMB'S HEADS, STEWED. 
 
 Cook two lamb's heads in salted water until 
 the bones can be remov.ed. Remove the bones 
 and brains, and replace the heads in the pan 
 with a table-spoonful each of chopped parsley 
 and onion, the grated rind of one lemon, salt to 
 taste, and a pinch of nutmeg. Stew over a slow 
 fire for forty minutes. Cut up the heads in even 
 pieces, and place in the centre of a hot dish. 
 Fry and cut up the brains, and place them round 
 the dish along with the tongue cut into slices. 
 Make a. sauce with half a pint of the liquor, 
 three well-beaten yolks of eggs, the juice of half 
 a lemon, and a tea-spoonful of flour. Stir until 
 thickened, and pour over. 
 
 LAMB'S HEAD, TO PREPARE BRAINS FOR. 
 
 Wash and clean the brains thoroughly, let 
 them lie in cold water for half an hour, then 
 
LAM 
 
 357" 
 
 LAM 
 
 boil them in vinegar and water for six or eight 
 minutes. After this they may be either minced 
 with th? fry, or cut into thin slices and placed 
 between the halves of the head, or chopped 
 small and mixed smoothly with a dessert-spoon- 
 ful of flour, half a tea-spoonful of salt, a quarter 
 of a tea-spoonful of pepper, a tea-spoonful of 
 finely-minced parsley, and about a square inch 
 of thin lemon-rind, finely grated. Work all 
 thoroughly together with a well-beaten egg, 
 have ready a pan of boiling fat, drop the mix- 
 ture into it from a spoon in small round cakes, 
 and fry them to a bright brown colour. Drain 
 the fat thoroughly from them before serving. 
 Time, three or four minutes to fry the cakes. 
 Probable cost of head, 8d. to lOd. 
 
 LAMB'S HEARTS, FRICASSEED. 
 
 Take two lamb's hearts, lay them in cold 
 water, and fill the cavity with veal stuffing (see 
 Veal Poecemeat), flour them well, and bake in 
 a jnoderate oven^for three-quarters of an hour. 
 Then cut them into neat slices; thicken and 
 brown the gravy; lay the pieces in a pan, and 
 stew gently for a quarter of an hour. Arrange 
 neatly on a dish with slices of fried tomatoes 
 and a few chopped mushrooms. 
 
 LAMB, SHOULDER OF. 
 
 Put a shdulder of lamb down to a clear flre, 
 and baste it liberally while roasting. A quarter 
 of an hour before it is taken up dredge a little 
 flour over it, sprinkle a t«a-spoonful of salt 
 upon it, and baste it with a little butter until 
 it is nicely browned. Send in the dish with it 
 a spoonful or two of the gravy made from the 
 joint, and the rest in a tureen. Mint sauce and 
 green peas, salad, or potatoes generally accom- 
 pany this dish. Time to roast, eighteen min- 
 utes for every pound. Probable cost. Is. per 
 pcund. SufBcient for four or five persons. 
 
 LAMB, SHOULDER OF, GRILLED. 
 
 Take a shoulder of lamb, plunge it intb boil- 
 ing water, let it boil three or four miniites, then 
 draw it to the side of the fire and simmer it 
 gently' for three-quarters of an hour. Take it 
 up, score it nearly to the bone in squares an 
 inch apart, brush it over with the yolk of an 
 egg, and sprinkle upon it bread-crumbs which 
 have been seasoned with a tea-spoonful of salt 
 and half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and flavoured 
 with a table-spoonful of dried herbs, of which 
 two parts should be parsley, one thyme, and 
 one marjoram. Broil the meat over a clear fire 
 until it is lightly browned, and send the follow- 
 ing sauce to table with it. Mix half a salt- 
 spoonful of cayenne with four ounces of poun(^ed 
 sugar. Add half a pint of white vinegar, and 
 simmer over the fire until the sugar is dissolved. 
 Add a glass of claret, and simmer again for a 
 quarter of an hour. Serve very hot in a tureen. 
 Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. 
 
 LAMB, SHOULDER OF, STUFFED AND BRAISED. 
 
 Take a shoulder of lamb, remove the blade- 
 bone without injuring the outer skin, but leave 
 in the ahankbone. Pill the cavity from which 
 the bone has been removed with good veal force- 
 meat. Sprinkle the inner surface with a little 
 salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, and draw to- 
 
 gether the edges of the shoulder with some 
 strong thread. Put the lamb into a braisiug- 
 pan or stewpan with slices of fat bacon under 
 and over it. Put with it two onions, three or 
 four sticks of celery, a bunch of savoury herbs, 
 and a pint and a half of white stock. Braise 
 the lamb for two hours over a slow fire. Take it 
 up, drain it, boil the gravy down quickly, and 
 glaze the meat. After glazing, serve with either 
 cucumber, tomato, or sorrel sauce. Probable 
 cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 LAMB, SHOULDER OF, WITH TRUFFLES. 
 
 Take two. shoulders of lamb, bone and trim 
 them neatly, and sprinkle over each a tea-spoon- 
 ful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, a 
 quarter of a nutmeg, grated, and two truffles cut 
 into thin slices. Put the two shoulders together, 
 press them closely, and tie them round securely 
 with string. Place some slices of fat bacon at 
 the bottom of a convenient-sized saucepan ; put 
 the meat upon this, and then some more slices 
 on the top; add two bunches of parsley, a very 
 small bunch of thyme, three carrots, two onions, 
 a tea-spoonful of salt, half a dozen peppercorns, 
 and a piiit and a half of good stock. - Cover 
 the pan closely, and simmer very gently for three 
 hours. At the end of that time, take out the 
 meat, remove the string, place the joints on a 
 hot dish, boil the gravy quickly down to the 
 consistency of sauce, and strain it over them. 
 Garnish with slices of lemon, and serve as hot as 
 possible. If truffles cannot be easily procured, 
 they may be omitted, and the lamb cooked in 
 the same way without them. Probable cost, Is. 
 per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 LAMB STEAKS, BROWN. 
 
 Flatten the steaks, dip them into beaten egg, 
 and afterwards into finely-grated bread-crumbs 
 flavoured and seasoned as follows. With four 
 heaped table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs mix half 
 a tea-spoonful of salt, a quarter of a tea-spoon- 
 ful of pepper, the eighth of a small nutmeg, 
 grated, a table-spoonful of finely-minced pars- 
 ley, and the thin rind of a quarter of a lemon 
 chopped as small as possible. Pry the chops in 
 hot fat, thicken halt a pint of nicely-seasoned 
 gravy with a lump of butter rolled in flour, and 
 add a glass of port and half a dozen stewed 
 mushrooms. The latter may be omitted. Serve 
 the steaks on a hot dish, pour the sauce into 
 the centre, and garnish with fried sippets, or, 
 if preferred, pickled gherkins thinly sliced. Send 
 green peas or stewed cucumbers to table with 
 these. Time, ten minutes to fry the steaks. 
 Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient, half 
 a dozen for three persons. 
 
 LAMB STEAKS RAGOUT. 
 
 Take two pounds of lamb steaks, strew a little 
 white pepper and powdered mace over them, and 
 put them into a saucepan with a quarter of a 
 pint of liquid, half of which should be milk and 
 half white stock. Let them simmer as softly as 
 possible, without ceasing, for an hour and a 
 quarter, or until tender. Just before serving 
 mix a tea-spoonful of mushroom-powder and a 
 tea-spoonful of flour very smoothly with a table- 
 spoonful of cold milk. Stir this to the sauce, 
 add a salt-spoonful of salt, a wine-glassfiil of" 
 
LAM 
 
 358 
 
 LAM 
 
 boiling cream, and half a dozen white mush- 
 rooms ready stewed ; serve immediately. Great 
 care must be taken in preparing this dish that 
 the meat is very gently simmered. If it is 
 allowed to boil quickly it will be hard, dry, and 
 unpalatable. When gently simmered it is ex- 
 cellent. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Suf- 
 ficient for three or four persons. 
 
 LAMB, STEWED, WITH MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Take the bones from a breast of lamb, season 
 the meat with a little pepper and salt, and fry 
 it in hot fat until it is lightly browned on both 
 sides. Take it up, drain it from the fat, and 
 put it into a stewpan with three or four thin 
 slices of fat bacon, and as much white stock as 
 will barely cover it. Add a pound of button- 
 mushrooms, a dessert-spoonful of finely-minced 
 parsley, five or six chives, a tea-spoonful of 
 salt, and six peppercorns. Let the liquid boil 
 up, then draw the pan to the side of the fire, 
 and stew gently for an hour and a half. Take 
 the lamb up, place it on a hot dish, squeeze the 
 juice of a lemon over it, and strain the sauce to 
 serve with it, first taking out the mushrooms to 
 place round the meat. If preferred, half a dozen 
 black truffles cut into slices may be substituted 
 for "the mushrooms. Probable cost, 6d. to 8d. 
 per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 LAMB, STEWED, WITH PEAS. 
 
 Take a breast or loin of lamb, weighing about 
 two pounds. Cut it into neat chops, season 
 them with a tea-spoonful of salt, and half a tea- 
 spoonful of white pepper, and dredge a little 
 flour over them. Put a piece of butter, the size 
 of a walnut, into a frying-pan. Let it dissolve, 
 then put in the chops, and let them remain 
 Until lightly browned on both sides. Pour away 
 the fat, add three-quarters of a pint of unsea- 
 soned boiling stoct, a cos lettuce cut in long 
 strips, a leaf of tarragon, two shallots finely 
 minced, a tea-spoonful of sifted sugar, half a 
 salt-spoonful of salt, and the eighth of a small 
 nutmeg, grated. Cover the pan closely, and 
 simmer gently for a quarter of an hour. Put 
 a pint of green peas freshly shelled into the 
 saucepan, and simmer again until they are 
 tender, which, if they are young, will be in a 
 quarter of an hour. Serve the peas on the dish 
 with the lamb. Time, eight minutes to fry the 
 chops. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. 
 
 LAMB, STEWED, WITH TOMATOES. 
 ' Stew a good-sized piece of the target of lamb 
 in .good gravy for half an hour, skim off the fat 
 and lay it on a hot dish. Cover it over with 
 tomato sauce,, and garnish round with fried 
 tomatoes and croutons. Pour round it some of 
 the gravy that the meat was stewed in. 
 
 LAMB STONES AND SWEETBREAD, TO 
 FRICASSEE. 
 
 Soak three sweetbreads in cold water for three 
 or four hours, and change the water once or 
 twice during that time. Wash and skin some 
 lamb stones, put both them and the sweetbreads 
 into boiling water, and let them boil for ten or 
 fifteen minutes. Throw them into cold water. 
 Cut the lamb stones into slices, press the sweet- 
 breads into shape; if large, they may be divided 
 into halves. Dry them well, dredge a little 
 
 flour over them, and fry them in boiling fat until 
 they are brightly browned on both sides. A 
 
 fpaen large oysters may be fried with them, 
 'our off the fat, and add a pint of boiling 
 gravy, half a hundred asparagus-tops, cut into 
 small pieces, a salt-spoonful of salt, half a salt- 
 spoonful of pepper, the eighth of a nutmeg, 
 grated, and four table-spoonfuls of light wine. 
 Simmer very gently for a few minutes. Beat 
 the yolks of three eggs. Draw the gravy to the 
 side of. the fire, let it cool for two or three min- 
 utes, mix it very gradually with the eggs, pour 
 it back into the saucepan, and stir it until it 
 thickens. It must not boil after the eggs are 
 put in. Serve as hot as possible, and garnish 
 with slices of lemon. Probable cost, uncertain 
 — ^it varies greatly with the season. Sufficient 
 for six or seven persons. 
 
 LAMB STOVE. 
 
 Split a lamb's head in halves, wash it thor- 
 oughly, blanch it, put it into a stewpan, with 
 as much good stock as will completely cover it, 
 and let it simmer very gently for two hoiirs. 
 Pick and wash three handf uls of spinach, put 
 it with the stew, and add a table-spoonful of 
 finely-minced parsley, two or three green onions, 
 a tea-spoonful of salt, and half a tea-spoonful 
 of pepper. Simmer for twenty minutes longer, 
 and serve all on the same dish. Probable cost. 
 Is. 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 LAMB 'SWEETBREADS, FRIED. 
 
 Soak three sweetbreads in water for two or 
 three hours, to draw out the blood, then boil 
 them for ten minutes, to set them firm, and 
 throw them into cold water for ten minutes - 
 more. Dry them in a soft cloth, and press them 
 between two dishes Dredge a little flour over 
 them, brush them over with beaten egg, and 
 sprinkle finely-grated bread-crumbs upon them, 
 and fry them in bacon-fat or butter. Baste 
 them constantly until brightly browned. A 
 tearspoonful of bread-raspings, such as are used 
 for hams, may be strewn over the bread-crumbs, 
 to ensure the colour being good. Have ready 
 half a pint of good brown gravy. Stir a glass 
 of sherry into it, to flavour it, and pour this • 
 round, not upon, the sweetbreads. Garnish 
 with water-cress. Time, altogether, about half 
 an hour, exclusive of the soaking. Sufficient for 
 three or four persons. Probable cost, uncertain. || 
 
 LAMB SWEETBREADS, LARDED. 
 
 Soak three sweetbreads in water for two or 
 three hours, and change the water frequently. 
 Put them into a saucepan, and let them boil 
 for five or six minutes, to make them firm. 
 Take them out, put them into cold water, and 
 lard them closely. Place them in a stewpan, 
 with as much good veal stock as will reach up 
 to the larding, and put with them a sliced 
 carrot, an oniori, a stick of celery, and a small 
 piece of butter rolled in flour. Let them sim- 
 mer gently for ten minutes, and baste liberally 
 during the time. Beat an egg, mix it with 
 half a pint of cream, add a dessert-spoonful of 
 flnely-minced^arsley, and two or three grates 
 of nutmeg. Take the carrot, onion, and celery 
 out of the sauce, let it cool a minute, then add 
 the egg and cream. If preferred, a quarter of 
 a hundred asparagus-tops may be stewed in the 
 
LAM 
 
 359 
 
 LAM 
 
 sauce, instead of the carrot and celery. Stir 
 constantly until quite hot; but it must not 
 boil after the egg and cream are added. A tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of pep- 
 per, should be put in, if the stock is not 
 already seasoned. Serve the sweetbreads on a 
 hot dish, strain the sauce over them, and send 
 sorrel or tomato sauce to table, in a tureen. 
 Asparagus or green peas form an excellent ac- 
 companiment. Time, half an hour. Probable 
 cost, uncertain. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 LAMB SWEETBREADS, SCALLOPED. 
 
 Soak three lamb's sweetbreads, and boil them 
 for ten minutes. Throw them into cold water, 
 drain and dry them, and cut them in thin slices. 
 Season and flavour them with a tea-spoonful of 
 salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, the eighth 
 of a nutmeg, grated, and the juice of half a 
 lemon, and fry them with an ounce of butter 
 till they are brightly browned. Dredge a table- 
 spoonful of flour on them, pour over them half a 
 pint of boiling cream, and add a dozen sliced 
 mushrooms. Shake the pan over the fire for a 
 few minutes, then draw it aside, and let it cool 
 a little. Mix a tea-spoonful or two of the sauce 
 with two well-beaten yolks of eggs, and add 
 them gradually to the rest. Stir over the fire 
 again until quite hot, and serve in the middle 
 of a rice border. Time, half an hour. Prob- 
 able cost, uncertain. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 LAMB SWEETBREADS, WITH BACON. 
 
 Wash and trim the sweetbreads, and boil them 
 in a little milk and water or weak stock for fif- 
 teen to. twenty minutes. Add a few pieces of 
 carrot, turnip, and onion, a sprig of thyme, and 
 parsley to flavour. Take them up, dry them, and 
 when cool egg and bread-crumb them ; flavour 
 the crumbs with a pinch of salt, pepper, and 
 herbs. Fry lightly some small slices of bacon, 
 two for each sweetbread, then keep them hot, 
 and cook the sweetbreads in the bacon fat. Serve 
 on a hot dish, and garnish with the bacon, for 
 a breakfast dish, without sauce or gravy; but 
 if for a luncheon dish a little suitable sauce 
 may be poured round, and nicely-dressed vege- 
 tables served in the centre. 
 
 LAMB TARGET. 
 
 The rib or target of lamb consists of the neck 
 and breast-joints left undivided. Saw off the 
 chine-bone, and remove the flat bones which 
 adhere to the meaty part of the neck. Partially 
 divide the ribs, and cover the joint with buttered 
 paper. Lay it down before a clear fire, and let 
 it remain until done enough. A few minutes 
 before it is ready, remove the paper, and brown 
 the meat nicely. Place it on a hot dish, and 
 send brown gravy and mint sauce to table with 
 it. Time to roast, about an hour. Probable 
 cost, 9d. per pound. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 LAMB, WITH CUCUMBER. 
 
 Stew a breast, loin, or neck of lamb, until it 
 is sufficiently tender to draw out the bones. 
 Drain and trim it, brush it over with beaten egg, 
 and strew seasoned bread-crumbs thickly upon 
 it. Have ready some cucumber, prepared as 
 follows. Procure two or three fresh young 
 
 cucumbers. Take off the rind, remove the seeds, 
 and cut them into pieces, lengthwise. Sprinkle 
 salt and pepper upon them, and fry them in hot 
 butter for five or six minutes. Put them into 
 a stewpan, cover them with some of the liquid 
 in which the lamb was stewed, and let them sim- 
 mer gently for twenty minutes. Broil the lamb 
 (see Lamb, Beoiled) ; place the cucumber and 
 gravy on a hot dish, and serve the lamb upon 
 them. Garnish with sliced lemon and parsley. 
 Time, altogether, about two hours. Probable 
 cost of lamb, lOd. or Is. per pound. Sufficient 
 for three or four persons. 
 LAMB, WITH RICE. 
 
 Three-parts roast a loin, breast, or small fore- 
 quarter of lamb. Cut it into neat pieces, strew 
 a little salt and pepper over these, and lay them 
 in a deep dish, with as much nicely-flavoured 
 stock as will just cover the bottom of the dish. 
 Boil half a pound of rice with a quart of water, 
 two ounces of butter, and a blade of mace, until 
 the rice is quite tender, and the water absorbed. 
 Add a little salt, and beat the rice thoroughly ; 
 then mix with it the yolks of two eggs well 
 beaten. Spread the rice over the lamb, and 
 brush over it the well-beaten yolk of another 
 egg. Put the meat into a moderate oven, until 
 it is lightly browned all over. Time to roast the 
 lamb, twelve minutes to the pound. Probable 
 cost, lamb, lOd. or Is. per pound; rice, 4d. per 
 pound. Sufficient, a small quarter of lamb for 
 six or seven persons. 
 
 LAMB, WITH WINE RICE. 
 
 Boil a sufficient quantity of rice till soft, 
 stirring in a handful of currants, and letting 
 them cook for a few minutes. Add a table- 
 spoonful of sugar and a little cinnamon. Eun 
 off any surplus water, and pour in a wine-glass- 
 ful of white wine. Boil up at once, adding a, 
 lump of butter, and serve very hot, as an 
 accompaniment to roast lamb. This is a 
 German recipe, but the dish is always liked. 
 Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 LAMPREY. 
 
 This not very wholesome, but rare and rich 
 fish, was a great favourite in ancient times, and 
 is well known to the student of English history, 
 as it was an attack of indigestion brought on by 
 eating of it too freely which caused the death 
 of Henry I. Lamprey is generally served either 
 slfewed or potted, and cannot be eaten too fresh. 
 It requires twice as much stewing as an eel, and 
 should be partially boiled before it is either 
 broiled or fried." 
 
 LAMPREY PIE. 
 
 Take one or two lampreys, clean them thor- 
 oughly, and cut them into pieces of convenient 
 size. Line a pie-dish with puff pastry, then put 
 in the lamprey, seasoned with salt, pepper, 
 chopped parsley, and a, little maoe. Put a 
 layer of sliced onions oyer the fish, then a layer 
 of potatoes, then a layer of each in the same 
 order. Pour over two glasses of good claret or 
 half a pint of cider, and cover with puff paste. 
 Bake for an hour. 
 
 LAMPREY, POTTED. 
 
 Take a dozen lampreys of moderate size. 
 Empty them, and cleanse them thoroughly from 
 
LAM 
 
 360 
 
 LAN 
 
 slime by washing them in hot water, cut off the 
 heads, tails, and gills, and take out the car- 
 tilage, and a string on each side of it, down the 
 back. Dry them well, and let them drain for 
 several hours before proceeding further. Pound 
 half a dozen blades of mace and a dozen cloves 
 to a fine powder. Mix with them two ounces of 
 white pepper, and three ounces of salt, and 
 sprinkle this seasoning inside, and all over the 
 lampreys. Curl the fish round, and lay them in 
 a stone jar. Pour over them half a pound of 
 melted beef suet, and two pounds of clarified 
 butter. Tie three or four folds of paper over the 
 top of the jar, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 Keep looking at them whilst baking, and as the 
 oil works up remove it. Lay them in a-cool dry 
 place, in the same jar in which they were cooked. 
 When wanted for use, put as many as are 
 required into a fresh jar, let them heat in the 
 oven, then cover them with fresh butter. They 
 will keep good for four or five months. Time, 
 three hours to bake. Probable cost, uncertain, 
 lampreys being seldom offered for sale. 
 
 LAMPREY, STEWED. 
 
 Rub a moderate-sized lamprey with salt, wash 
 it in warm water to cleanse it from slime, cut 
 off its head, tail, and gills, season with pepper, 
 salt, and nutmeg, ana cut it into pieces about 
 three inches in length. Put these pieces into a 
 stewpan with three or four small onions, a dozen 
 button-mushrooms, a bay-leaf, a table-spoonful 
 of chopped parsley, » small piece of thin lemon- 
 rind, three-quarters of a pint of boiling stock 
 or water, and a glass of sherry. A larger propor- 
 tion of wine may be used, if liked. Simmer very 
 gently until done enough. Thicken the gravy 
 with a piece of butter rolled in flour, and boil 
 for a few minutes longer. Take out the fish, 
 place it on a hot dish, squeeze the juice of half 
 a lemon over it, and strain the sauce upon it. 
 Garnish with cut lemon. Time, an hour and a 
 half. Probable cost, uncertain, lampreys being 
 seldom offered for sale. Sufiicient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 LAMPREY, STEWED (Worcester mods). 
 
 After cleaning the fish, carefully remove the 
 cartilage which runs down the back, and season 
 with a small quantity of cloves, mace, nutmeg, 
 pepper, and allspice. Put it into a stewpan, 
 with strong beef gravy, a glass of port, and a 
 glass of Madeira. Cover close, and stew till 
 tender; then take out the lamprey and keep it 
 hot. Boil up the liquor with two or three 
 chopped anchovies and a little flour and butter ; 
 add the juice of half a lemon and a tea-spoonful 
 of made mustard. Strain over the fish through 
 a sieve, and serve with sippets of bread and 
 grated horse-radish. 
 
 LANCASHIRE HOT-POT. 
 
 Take three pounds of the best end of a neck 
 of mutton, four mutton kidneys, a score of 
 oysters, four onions, and three pounds of pota- 
 toes. Divide the mutton into chops, cut off 
 about two inches and a half from the end, and 
 trim away all superfluous fat. Place a layer at 
 the bottom of a brown earthenware stewpot 
 (called in Lancashire a "hot-pot dish"), and 
 put over the mutton a layer of sliced kidneys, an 
 onion cut into thin slices, four or five oysters. 
 
 and half a pound of sliced potatoes. Sprinkle a 
 salt-spoonful of salt, a salt-spoonful of pepper, 
 and a tea-spoonful of curry-powder over them; 
 then repeat the previous performance until the 
 dish is full. Place whole potatoes at the top, 
 and pour in the oyster liquor and half a pint of 
 water. Put the dish into a moderate oven, and 
 bake until the potatoes at the top are brown and 
 crisp, but are cooked through. When ready to 
 serve, pour half a pint of boiling gravy over the 
 meat, and send it to table in the dish in which 
 it was baked. Pin a napkin neatly round the 
 dish for the sake of appearance. The oven must 
 not be very hot, or the gravy will be dried up. 
 If there is any danger of this, add a little 
 more. Time, three hours and a half to bake. 
 Probable cost, 5s. Sufficient for six or eight 
 persons. 
 
 LANCASHIRE RAISED PIE. 
 
 Take about two pounds of whatever meat is 
 preferred (pork is most generally used), cut the 
 lean into thin slices, and season each piece 
 slightly with a little pepper and salt. Take 
 away all the bones, and stew them, with a pint 
 of water, half a small tea-spoonful of salt, and 
 a pinch of pepper, for two hours, then strain the 
 gravy and put it aside for use. It should when 
 cold be a stiff jelly. Shred four ounces of beef 
 suet very finely. Mix half a tea-spoonful of salt 
 with it, and melt it over the fire in half a pint 
 of boiling water. It will take ten or fifteen 
 minutes to melt. Put a pound and a half of 
 flour into a bowl. Pour the boiling fat and 
 water into the middle of it, and mix thoroughly, 
 first with a spoon and afterwards with the hands. 
 Knead to a stiff paste, cut off a piece large 
 enough to form the lid of the pie, put the rest 
 on the table and mould it with the hands to the 
 form of a cone. Flatten the sides with the palms 
 of the hands, and, when quite smooth, press 
 down the top of the cone with one hand, and 
 with the other make the sides equally round. 
 Great expedition is necessary, as the excellence 
 of the pie depends to a considerable extent on 
 its being placed in the oven while still warm. 
 Put in the lean meat, strew a little minced fat 
 over each layer, and press it closely until the 
 mould is full. Egg the edges, roll out the cover, 
 and place it on the pie. Make a small hole in 
 the centre, through which the gravy can after- 
 wards be put in. Ornament the pie with leaves 
 of pastry, or in any other way to please the 
 fancy, brush it over with yolk of egg, and bake 
 in a good oven. When the pie is done enough 
 pour a little of the jelly gravy (melted) through 
 the hole in the top. Time to bake, three hours. 
 Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for six or eight 
 persons. 
 
 LANDRAIL, OR CORN-CRAKE, TO ROAST. 
 
 This delicious bird, which is in full season at 
 the end of August and the beginning of Sep- 
 tember, should be trussed like a snipe, with the 
 head under the wing, and a skewer passed 
 through the thigh and the body, to keep the legs 
 straight. Fasten two or three slices of bacon 
 over the breast, and roast before a clear fire. 
 Dish it on fried bread-crumbs, or, if preferred, 
 omit these and pour a small quantity of brown 
 gravy into the dish with it, and send more to 
 table in a tureen. Bread sauce should also be 
 
LAN 
 
 361 
 
 LAR 
 
 sent to table with it. Time to roast, from 
 fifteen to twenty minutes. Sufficient, three or 
 four for a dish. 
 
 LANDRAKE PUDDING. 
 
 Boil half a pound of spaghetti in salted 
 water until tender, but not broken. Drain 
 the spaghetti, and leave to get cold. Mean- 
 while stew the heads and necks of two ducks 
 or chickens, or sixpennyworth of giblets, and 
 season the gravy thus made with pepper and 
 salt and one small onion, fried brown. Thicken 
 with a little flour; then remove the meat and 
 bones, and add a tea-spoonful of sherry. Lay 
 the spaghetti in a baking-dish, pour in the 
 gravy, cover with sliced tomatoes and cold 
 cooked potatoes, and bake for half an hour. 
 This makes an admirable supper dish. Prob- 
 able cost, lOd. to Is. 
 
 LANGUES DE CHAT BISCUITS. 
 
 Beat six ounces of sugar with three eggs in a 
 basin for five minutes, then add three more eggs. 
 When frothy mix in six ounces of flour and one 
 pound of melted butter, then add two table- 
 spoonfuls of whipped cream. Put this prepara- 
 tion into a forcing bag, and squeeze it on to a 
 buttered and floured tin in the shape of small 
 finger biscuits. Let them remain for five minutes, 
 then cook in a hot oven. They can be flavoured 
 with vanilla or any other desired flavouring. 
 
 LARD AND BUTTER PASTRY. 
 
 Rub a pound of lard into two pounds of flour, 
 and roll it out. Roll out half a pound of butter 
 on the board, and dredge a little flour upon it. 
 Lift the floured butter on the pastry, fold them 
 up together, and roll out once. Pastry is better 
 when made in a cool place, and should be rolled 
 out, if convenient, on a marble slab. Time, a 
 quarter of an hour to prepare. Probable cost. 
 Is. lOd. for this quantify. 
 
 LARD CRUST. 
 
 (j^ee Cettst, Laed.) 
 
 LARD, MELTING. 
 
 Take the fat from the inner part of a pig, 
 newly killed. Cleanse it from skin and blood, 
 cut it into thin sUces,' and put them into an 
 earthenware jar; place this in a pan of boiling 
 water, and let the contents Bimmer very gently. 
 Keep pouring the fat off as it dissolves, either 
 into dry jars or into bladders which have been 
 well cleaned. The smaller these are the better, 
 as the lard is liable to spoil as soon as it is ex- 
 posed to the air. Store m a cool, dry place. If 
 jars are used, cover them securely with bladder 
 before putting them away. The last drainings 
 of the fat will not be so flne as that which is 
 poured off first. 
 
 LARDOONS. 
 
 Lardoon is the name given to the strip of 
 bacon which is to be used for larding. Bacon 
 intended for this purpose should be cured with- 
 out saltpetre, " or it will give a pink tinge to 
 white meats. 
 
 LARD PASTRY. 
 
 Mix two tea<-spoonfnIs of baking-powder and 
 a salt-spoonful of salt with two pounds of fine 
 flour. Put a pound and a half of lard into the 
 centre, stir it briskly with a knife, and keep 
 
 pouring in cold water very gradually until the 
 ingredients are thoroughly mixed. Roll the 
 pastry out, and touch it as little as possible with 
 the fingers. Time, a quarter of an hour to pre- 
 pare. Probable cost of lard, lOd. per pound. 
 
 LARD, PORK. 
 
 {See PoBE Laed.) 
 LARD, PRESERVING UNMELTED. 
 
 Take the fat from the inside of a newly-killed 
 pig, rub it all over with salt, and let it lie for 
 two days. Drain it, and put it into salt and 
 water sufficiently strong to float an egg. Change 
 this occasionally in warm weather. Lay the lard 
 in fresh water for two or three hours before 
 using it. 
 
 LARD, TO. 
 
 Larding is sometimes spoken of as one of the 
 most difficult operations of cookery, and yet it 
 is exceedingly easy. It is a great improvement 
 to all dry, lean meats, and requires to be neatly 
 done in order to look well, but for this a little 
 practice is all that is necessary. It is not at all 
 unlike wool-work. Cut the bacon (which for 
 white meat should be cured without saltpetre, 
 for fear of reddening the flesh) into narrow strips 
 of equal length and thickness. For poultry and 
 game these should be two inches long, the eighth 
 of an inch thick, and a quarter of an inch broad ; 
 but for fillets of beef and loins of veal they 
 
 LARDINO NEEDLE. 
 
 should be two inches long and the third of an 
 inch square. Put each strip of bacon, which is 
 called a lardoon, into a larding needle. On the 
 point of this take up as much of the flesh as will 
 hold the lardoon firmly, draw the needle through, 
 and part of the bacon with it, leaving about 
 half an inch at each side. Repeat the process 
 as evenly as possible, and at equal distances, 
 until the meat requiring to be larded is covered 
 with these chequered rows. Generally speak- 
 ing, the breasts only of pheasants, chickens, 
 turkeys, and partridges are larded, and the 
 backs and thighs of hares. When the flesh is 
 soft, as in the case of poultry, the part to be 
 larded should be dipped for a moment into 
 boiling water, which will give firmness to it. 
 
 LARK PASTRY (to be eaten cold). 
 
 Take a dozen larks, empty them, cut off their 
 heads, legs, and necks, and put these into a 
 saucepan with a few trimmings of veal, if veal 
 trimmings are at hand, a sprig of parsley, a very 
 small sprig of thyme, a sliced carrot, and a 
 pint of water. Let them ■ simmer very gently 
 until the liquid is considerably reduced, and 
 will jelly. Mince the livers of the larks finely, 
 and mix them with half a pound of iSan veal, 
 half a pound of sausage-meat, four ounces of 
 unsmoked bacon, three table-spoonfuls of 
 chopped parsley, a dessert-spoonful of powdered 
 thyme, a tea-spoonful of white pepper, and a 
 little salt. The quantity of the latter must be 
 regulated by the condition of the bacon. Work 
 up half of this forcemeat with a table-spoonful 
 of light wine, and fill the larks with it. Line_ a 
 mould or pie-dish throughout with a good stiff 
 crust. Put a layer of loose mincemeat at the 
 
LAR 
 
 362 
 
 L,AR 
 
 bottom, lay the larks upon it, and fill up the 
 empty spaces with mincemeat. Place three or 
 four slices of bacon on the top, put on the cover, 
 fasten the edges securely, and cut a slit in the 
 middle through which the gravy may afterwards 
 be poured. Bake in a moderate oven. When the 
 pastry is sufBciently baked, strain the liquor 
 into it through the hole in the top, then cover it 
 ■with a small ornament, and let it get quite cold 
 before cutting it ; indeed, it will be better if the 
 dish is kept a day or two before being used. 
 Time to bake, from an hour and a half to two 
 iours. Probable cost of larks. Is. 6d. per dozen. 
 Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 LARK PIE (to be eaten hot). 
 
 Take a dozen larks, empty them, cut off their 
 beads, necks, and legs, roll the birds in flour, 
 fill them with a forcemeat made of four table- 
 spoonfuls of finely-grated bread-crumbs, half a 
 table-spoonful of chopped parsley, the rind of a 
 quarter of a leinon, finely minced, a small salt- 
 spoonful of salt, and half a salt-spoonful of 
 pepper. Place three or four slices of bacon and 
 three or four slices of lean beef at the bottom 
 of a pie-dish, put the larks upon them, and strew 
 over them half a tea-spoonful of pepper, a table- 
 spoonful of parsley, a shallot cut into small 
 pieces, and a little salt, if required, but this will 
 depend upon the condition of the bacon. Pour 
 half a pint of weak stock over the whole, line 
 the edges with a good crust, cover the dish with 
 the same, and bake in a moderate oven. Time 
 to bake, from an hour and a quarter to an hour 
 and a half. Probable cost of larks. Is. 6d. per 
 dozen. Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 LARKS (et la Macedoine\ 
 
 Pick and clean two dozen larks, cut off their 
 necks and heads, and fill them with a forcemeat 
 made of their livers, finely minced, three ounces 
 of veal, three ounces of fat bacon, a salt-spoonful 
 of salt (if this be necessary), a quarter of a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper, a table-spoonful of powdered 
 sweet herbs, and a quarter of a nutmeg, grated. 
 Pound the forcemeat well before putting it into 
 the birds. Lay the larks in a deep dish, pour 
 over them a pint of good gravy, and bake in a 
 moderate oven. Dish them round mashed 
 potatoes, and garnish with carrots and turnips, 
 boiled and cut into small dice. Pour 'the gravy 
 over, and serve. Time, a quarter of an hour to 
 bake. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 6d. per dozen. 
 
 LARKS, BROILED. 
 
 Pick and clean a dozen larks, cut off their 
 heads and legs, truss them firmly, rub them over 
 ■with beaten egg, and strew bread-crumbs and a 
 small pinch of salt over them. Broil them over 
 a clear fire, and serve them on toasted bread. 
 Time, ten minutes. Probable cost, 2s. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 LARKS, CROUSTADE OF. 
 
 Bone a dozen and a half larks, cut off the legs 
 and heads, open, season them slightly, and put 
 a small piece of veal forcemeat and a truffle into 
 each bird, roll the larks up to a ball-shape, put 
 them into a pie-dish, season them slightly with 
 salt and pepper, and pour three ounces of clari- 
 fied butter over them ; then bake in a hot oven 
 for a quarter of an hour. Dish them in a fried 
 
 bread croustade prepared as follows. Cut the 
 crust from a stale loaf, about eight inches long, 
 scoop it out in the centre, and fry it in very hot 
 lard till it is brightly browned; drain and dry 
 it, and stick it in the middle of the dish, with a 
 paste made of white of egg and flour. Before 
 putting the larks into it, put it in the oven for 
 a few minutes to get hot. Garnish *ith stewed 
 mushrooms and aspic jelly, and send a pint of 
 good brown sauce to table in a tureen. Prob- 
 able cost of larks. Is. 6d. per dozen. Sufficient 
 for half a dozen persons. 
 
 LARKS IN ASPIC. 
 
 Bone the required number of larks ; fill them 
 with liver forcemeat, wrap up each lark tightly 
 in a small piece of muslin, braise in a rich stock, 
 and put aside to cool. Line with aspic jelly as 
 many small oblong moulds as there -are larks, 
 decorate the bottoms and sides with truffles and 
 hard-boiled white of egg, and allow the jelly to 
 set. Unwrap the larks, put one in each mould, 
 fill up with aspic, and place in the ice-chest or 
 other cool place to set. Unmould, dish up, gar- 
 nish with parsley, and serve, 
 
 LARKS IN BATTER PUDDING. 
 
 Mix six table-spoonfuls of flour very smoothly 
 with four table-spoonfuls of water, four well- 
 beaten eggs, and a pint of milk. Add a tea- 
 spoonful of salt and half a tea-spoonful of pep- 
 per. (Jrease a pie-dish thickly, pour in the 
 batter, and put into it half a dozen larks, which 
 have been picked, cleaned, and' trussed, with a 
 slice of bacon fastened round each. Bake in a 
 good oven. Time to bake, two hours. Prob- 
 able cost of larks. Is. 6d. per dozen. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. 
 
 LARKS IN CASES. 
 
 Bone the larks, fill them with a nicely pre- 
 pared forcemeat, wrap a small slice of cold 
 ham round each, and put them into small china 
 cases — one in each case. Put over them a little 
 pepper and salt, a few chopped mushrooms, and 
 a table-spoonful of good gravy, and cover with 
 fine bread-crumbs. Put a tiny piece of butter 
 on top of each, and bake for twenty minutes in 
 a moderate oven. Arrange nicely on a napkin 
 placed on a silver dish, and garnish with parsley. 
 
 LARKS, POTTED. 
 
 Pluck and clean a dozen larks, cut off their 
 heads and necks, open and flatten the birds, and 
 season each one with a little pepper, salt, 
 and grated nutmeg. Arrange them closely in a 
 potting-pan, place a quarter of a pound of but- 
 ter upon them, and bake them in a moderate 
 oven. Take them out, pour off the butter, and 
 put them in a cool, dry place until wanted. 
 Time, twenty-five minutes to bake. Probable 
 cost. Is. 6d. per dozen. Sufficient for three or 
 four persons. 
 
 LARKS, ROAST. 
 
 Pick and clean half a dozen larks, cut off the 
 legs, and pick out the gizzards with the point 
 of a knife. Season the birds lightly with a 
 little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and strew 
 a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley • over each ; 
 brush them with beaten yolk of egg, sprinkle 
 bread-crumbs upon them, run them upon a lonfr 
 skewer, fasten each end of this to the spit, and 
 
LAR 
 
 863 
 
 LEE 
 
 put them down to a clear fire. Baste plenti- 
 fully with butter, and strew more bread-crumbs 
 over them while roasting, until within five 
 minutes of their being done enough, then leave 
 them to brown. Dish them on fried bread- 
 crumbs, and garnish the dish with slices of 
 lemon. Time to roast, from ten to fifteen min- 
 utes. Probable cost, 9d. SufB.cient for two 
 persons. 
 
 LARKS, ROAST (another way). 
 
 Prepare the larks as in the last recipe. In- 
 stead, however, of brushing them over with egg 
 and dipping them in bread-crumbs, cover each 
 bird entirely with a slice of fat bacon, and roast 
 as before. Be careful that the larks are not 
 sufficiently near each other to touch when on 
 the skewer. Garnish with water-cress, and send 
 gravy to table in a tureen. Time, about ten 
 minutes to roast. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient 
 for two persons. 
 
 LARKS, STEWED. 
 
 Pick and clean a dozen larks; open them, 
 and fry them with two ounces of fat bacon, cut 
 into small pieces, until they are lightly 
 Irowned; dredge a little fiour over them, and 
 add half a pound of mushrooms, cut into slices, 
 half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and as much salt 
 £3 is required; this will be regulated by the 
 condition of the bacon. Pour over them a wine- 
 glassful of stock and another of sherry, and 
 simmer gently for a quarter of an hour. Add a 
 table-spoonful of finely-minced parsley, boil for 
 a minute, and serve on a hot dish. Garnish 
 with toasted sippets. Probable cost. Is. 6d. per 
 dozen. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 LAVER, TO DRESS. 
 
 Laver is a plant which grows upon rocks near 
 the sea-shore, and is valued on account of its 
 anti-scorbutic qualities. It is generally boiled 
 down to a jelly as soon as it is found, then 
 potted, and sent to distant places for use. To 
 dress it, put a pound into a bright stewpan with 
 three ounces of fresh butter, squeeze over it the 
 juice of a lemon or a Seville orange, and stir it 
 with a silver fork until quite hot. Serve it as 
 hot as possible, either over » lamp or a hot- 
 water dish. The taste for laver is an acquired 
 one. Instead of the butter a little gravy 
 piay be put into the pan, but lemon-juice 
 should never be omitted. Sufficient for three 
 or four persons. Probable cost, uncertain. 
 To prepare fresh laver, which is in season from 
 October to March, soak it in two or three lots of 
 fresh water, an hour in each, to free it from 
 salt; then boil it in hot water until soft and 
 mucilaginous, strain through a sieve, add a 
 few drops of lemon-juice, and serve very hot. It 
 is especially good with roast mutton. ITie 
 purple laver is considered superior to the green 
 variety. 
 
 LAX. 
 
 Lax is a preparation of Norwegian salmon, cut 
 in small squares and preserved in oil. It is 
 generally used as a hors d'ceuvre or a savoury. It 
 can be procured in tins, and may be served in 
 the same way as sardines. Small slices may be 
 laid on hot buttered toast, dusted with cajenne, 
 and made hot in the oven for two minutes. 
 Stoned olives may accompany this way of serving. 
 
 LEAMINGTON PUDDING. 
 
 Beat a quarter of a pound of fresh butter to a 
 cream, mix with it a quarter of a pound of fine 
 flour and a quarter of a pound of sugar, which 
 has been well rubbed upon the rind of a lemon, 
 and then powdered; add a tiny pinch of salt, a 
 pint of cream, the yolks of six eggs and the 
 whites of two, whisked to a firm froth. Butter 
 three round pudding-moulds of different sizes, 
 poiir in the mixture, and bake in a quick oven. 
 Serve the puddings one on the top of the other, 
 the largest at the bottom, and spread a layer of 
 good jam between each. Wine-sauce should be 
 sent to table with this pudding. Time to bake, 
 one hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 
 six or eight persons. 
 
 LEAMINGTON TART. 
 
 Cream a cupful of butter, and gradually beat 
 into it a cupful of sugar. When light, add five 
 well-beaten eggs, singly, and two cupfuls of 
 sifted pastry flour. Beat for ten minutes. 
 Butter two sandwich tins, and pour in the mix- 
 ture. Bake in a moderate oven. When cold, 
 ' split the cakes, and spread one side with lemon 
 curd ; then press together, sift castor sugar on 
 top, and serve pn a pretty d'oyley. Probable 
 cost. Is. to Is. 6d. 
 
 This, the Allium Porruln, is a plant highly: 
 valued for culinary purposes. Its flavour is 
 much milder than that of the onion, or any 
 other species of Allium. In Wales the leek has 
 long been a spe6ial favourite. It is ordinarily 
 sown in spring, and is ready for use in the follow- 
 ing winter. Attention has long been given to 
 its growth, and some of the varieties exhibit in 
 a remarkable degree the effects of cultivation in 
 increased size and delicacy. 
 
 LEEK AND PILCHARD PIE. 
 
 Clean and skin the white part of some large 
 leeks, scald them in milk and water, and slice 
 them. Take some salted pilchards which have 
 been soaked for some hours the day before. 
 Put. the pilchards and leeks in alternate layers 
 in a pie-dish, apd cover over with a good plain 
 crust. Bake in a moderate oven until brown. 
 When done, lift up the side crust with a knife, 
 and empty out all the liquor, then pour in half a 
 pint of scalded cream, and serve. 
 LEEK, GINGERBREAD. . 
 
 (.S'ee GiNGEEBEEAD LeEK.) 
 LEEKS AND POTATO SOUP, MAIGRE. 
 
 Prepare and fry the leeks as in the recipe for 
 Leek Soup (which see). Season them with a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper and half a tea-spoonful of 
 salt, and pour over them three pints of boiling 
 water. Let them simmer for half an hour. 
 Then put with them four large mealy potatoes, 
 peeled , and cut into slices. Boil until the 
 potatoes- are sufficiently soft to crush easily. 
 Press the whole through a sieve, make the soup 
 hot, add » pint of boiling milk or cream, and 
 serve. 
 LEEKS, BOILING OF. 
 
 Leeks are generally used in soups, etc. If 
 served alone, take , them when very young, trim off 
 the roots, the outer leaves, and the green ends. 
 
LEE 
 
 364 
 
 LEIM 
 
 and cut the stalks into six-inch lengths. Tie 
 them in bundles, put them into boiling water, 
 with a dessert-spoonful of salt and a table-spoon- 
 ful of vinegar, and let them boil until quite 
 tender. Drain them, and serve like asparagus, 
 on hot toast, pouring white sauce or melted 
 butter over them. Time to boil, three-quarters 
 of an hour. Probable cost, 4d. per bundle. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 LEEKS, FLEMISH. 
 
 Rub half a pound of fresh butter into a pound 
 of flour; add half a tea-spoonful of salt, the 
 yolks of two eggs, and three-quarters of a pint 
 of water. Mix thoroughly. Divide this pastry 
 into four parts, and roll these out into rounds 
 about six inches in diameter. Have ready a 
 dozen leeks prepared as follows. Wash them in 
 two or three waters, trim off the roots and the 
 outer leaves, strew a table-spoonful of salt, a 
 tea-spoonful of pepper, and half a grated nut- 
 meg over them, and pour over them half a pint 
 of cream. Let them soak for half an hour. Put 
 the rounds of pastry on a baking-dish ; fill each 
 one with the leeks, draw up the sides to the 
 centre, fasten them securely together, and bake 
 in a good oven. Time to bake, half an hour. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for half a dozen 
 persons. 
 
 LEEKS, SOUP OF 
 
 Trim off the roots and outer leaves from eight 
 fine leeks. Wash them quite free from grit, 
 divide them lengthwise into quarters, and cut 
 them into pieces an inch long. Put these into 
 boiling water for five minutes, then drain them, 
 and fry them in a little hot butter till they are 
 lightly browned. Pour over them two quarts of 
 good stock, season with two tea-spoonfuls of salt 
 and half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and simmer 
 gently for an hour. Place a roll cut into small 
 - pieces at the bottom of the tureen. Thicken the 
 soup with three ounces of flour, first mixed 
 smoothly with a little stock, and afterwards 
 aaded to the rest. Boil a quarter of an hour 
 longer, and serve as hot as possible. If pre- 
 ferred, half a pint of cream can be substituted 
 for the sliced roll. Probable cost, 5d. per quart. 
 Sufficient for six or eight personst 
 
 LEEKS, SOUP OF (commonly called Cock-a-Leekie). 
 Wash a dozen leeks ; trim away the roots, the 
 outer leaves, and the dark green ends, and divide 
 them into pieces an inch long and a quarter of 
 an inch thick. Put them into boiling water for 
 four or five minutes, then drain them, and lay 
 half of them in a steWpan with two quarts of 
 good stock and a large fowl, trussed as for boil- 
 ing. Skim carefully, and simmer gently for 
 half an hour. At the end of that time put in 
 the remainder of the leeks, and boil for three- 
 quarters of an hour longer. Skim carefully, and 
 season, if required, with pepper and salt. Cut 
 the fowl into neat pieces, place these in a tureen, 
 and pour the soup, which should be very thick 
 with leeks, over them. This soup is excellent 
 for anyone suffering from cold. ^Probable cost, 
 2s. per quart. Sufficient for six or eight Bersons. 
 (See also Cock-a-Leekie.) 
 
 LEEKS, SOUP OF, SCOTCH. 
 
 Put the water that has boiled a leg of mutton 
 into a stew-pot, with a quantity of chopped 
 
 leeks, and pepper and salt. Simmer them an 
 hour. Mix some oatmeal with a little cold water 
 quite smooth, pour it into the soup, and let it 
 simmer very gently, stirring occasionally to pre- 
 vent it burning, for about fifteen minutes longer. 
 
 LEEKS, STEWED. 
 
 Trim off the green part, and also the roots, of 
 the leeks. Throw them into boiling water,, 
 boil till tender, and drain. To drain them per- 
 fectly they should be turned upside down for 
 some minutes. Serve on toast covered with 
 Dutch sauce (see Dutch Sauce) or other white 
 sauce. 
 LEEKS, WELSH PORRIDGE. 
 
 Boil the required number of leeks for five 
 minutes, drain them off, and then stew them 
 gently in some fresh water, with a little salt and 
 pepper. When tender, cut them into slices, 
 and serve in some of the liquor in which they 
 were stewed, with toast cut into strips. 
 
 LEICESTER PIE. 
 
 Take three pounds of pork, fat and lean 
 together. Cut it into pieces two inches long and 
 an inch and a half wide, season these with pepper 
 and salt and powdered sage, and put them aside. 
 Mix a tea-spoonful of salt with a pound of flour. 
 Stir into it four ounces of lard, dissolved 
 in half a pint of hot water, roll the paste out, 
 line a greased tin mould with part of it, put 
 in the pieces of pork, place the lid on the top, 
 and fasten the edges securely. Bake in a moder- 
 ate oven. The greatest expedition should be 
 used, as this pie should be put into the oven 
 while it is still warm. Time to bake, an hour 
 and three-quarters. Probable cost, 2s. lOd., Suf- 
 ficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 LEICESTER PUDDING. 
 
 Mix a heaped tea-spoonful of carbonate of 
 soda and a small pinch of salt with a pound of 
 flour. Add the finely-minced rind oi half a 
 lemon, a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, four 
 ounces of finely-shredded beef suet, a table- 
 spoonful of sugar, and half a pound of stoned 
 raisins. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly, 
 stir into them a pint of milk, put the mixture 
 into a buttered mould, tie it in a floured cloth, 
 plunge it into boiling water, and let it boil 
 quickly until done enough. Send wine or brandy 
 sauce to table with it. Time to boil, two hours 
 and a, half. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 LEICESTERSHIRE MEDLEY PIE. 
 
 Take a pound each of cold fat bacon, cold 
 roast beef or pork, and cored apples. Line the 
 edges of a pie-dish with a good crust made of 
 dripping or lard. Fill it «rith the meat and 
 apples in alternate layers, and season each layer 
 with a little pepper, salt, and powdered ginger. 
 Pour half a pint of ale over all, place the lid 
 on the top, and bake in a good oven. Time to 
 bake, about an hour and a half. Probable cost, 
 2s. 3d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 LEMON. 
 
 The acid juice of the common lemon is much 
 employed in the manufacture of the favourite 
 beverage lemonade. It is also an important 
 article of ship stores, as a preventive of scurvy. 
 Lemon-peel — the rind of the fruit separated from 
 
LEM 
 
 365 
 
 LEM 
 
 the pulp— is in demand for flavouring. The ex- 
 portation of lemons from the southern districts 
 of Europe, where they are grown, is very con- 
 siderable. Sicily alone exports every year 
 30,000 chests, each chest containing 440 lemons. 
 LEMONADE. 
 
 Boil a quart of water with three-quarters of a 
 pound of loaf sugar, and pour the syrup over 
 the rind of six lemons. Let them soak for two 
 or three hours. Add the strained juice of the 
 lemons and two quarts of water. Pass the whole 
 through a jelly-bag, and serve in glass jugs. 
 Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for seveh pints of 
 lemonade. 
 
 LEMONADE, ECONOMICAL. 
 
 Slice four fresh lemons, and be careful to 
 remove the pips and the thick white skin. Put 
 them, with the rind, into a jug, add a. quarter 
 of a pound of loaf sugar, and pour upon them 
 a quart of boiling water. Cover closely, and 
 when the lemonade is cold, it is ready for use. 
 Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for three pints of 
 lemonade. Or, prepare two lemons as above, 
 and put them into a jug with six ounces of moist 
 sugar and an ounce of cream of tartar. Pour 
 two quarts of boiling water upon them, and let 
 the liquid stand until cold. Time, two hours 
 to infuse. Probable cost, 5d. Sufficient for five 
 pints of lemonade. 
 
 LEMONADE, EFFERVESCING. 
 
 Boil two pounds of loaf sugar in a pint of 
 strained lemon-juice until the sugar is dissolved. 
 Pour the syrup out, and when it is cold put it 
 into bottles, and cork closely. When wanted 
 for use, put a table-spoonful into a tumbler 
 three-parts full of cold water. Stir in briskly 
 twenty grains of carbonate of soda, and drink 
 during effervescence. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Suf- 
 ficient for a little more than a quart of syrup. 
 
 LEMONADE FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 Squeeze the juice out of a fine lemon. Strain 
 it, put it with a quarter of the rind and three or 
 four lumps of loaf sugar into a jug, and pour 
 over it a pint of boiling water. Cover closely, 
 and let the lemonade stand for two hours. At 
 the end of that time strain, and it will be ready 
 for use. Lemonade for invalids should be made 
 with boiling water, as the unhealthy properties 
 of the lemon are thus destroyed. A small quan- 
 tity only of sugar should be put in, unless a 
 desire to the contrary is expressed, as the 
 acidity will most likely be agreeable. Probable 
 cost, 2d. Sufficient for a pint of lemonade. 
 
 LEMONADE, MOCK. 
 
 Put. half a dozen drops -of essence of lemon 
 upon six ounces of loaf sugar, and add a quarter 
 of an ounce of tartaric acid. Pour a quart of 
 boiling water upon them, and mix thoroughly. 
 Time, about three minutes to prepare. Probable 
 cost, 2d. Sufficient for a quart of lemonade. 
 
 LEMONADE, NOURISHING. 
 
 Rub the yellow rind of two fresh lemons upon 
 three or four lumps of sugar. Put them into a 
 jug, add five ounces of loaf sugar, and pour 
 over them a pint of boiling water. When cool, 
 strain the liquid, and stir into it a quarter of 
 a pint of lemon-juice, a quarter of a pint of 
 sherry, and four well-beaten eggs. Mix thor- 
 
 oughly, and the lemonade is ready for use. 
 Time, about an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 
 exclusive of the sherry. Is. Sufficient for a quart 
 of lemonade. 
 
 LEMONADE, PORTABLE. 
 
 Rub the rind of a large fresh lemon upon three 
 ounces of loaf sugar. Crush it to powder, and 
 mix with it half an ounce of tartaric acid. When 
 thoroughly blended, put the powder into a glass 
 bottle, and cork closely. It will keep for some 
 time. When wanted for use, stir a spoonful of 
 the powder into a glassful of water. Time, half 
 an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 4d. Suf- 
 ficient for a dozen tumblers of lemonade. 
 LEMONADE SYRUP. 
 
 Rub the yellow rind of six lemons upon a 
 pound of loaf su^ar. Moisten it with half a pint 
 of water, and stir over the fire until the sugar 
 is dissolved and the syrup is quite clear, then 
 draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, add 
 the strained juice of twelve lemons, and simmer 
 gently for two or three minutes, but the syrup 
 must not boil after thfe juice is added. Bottle 
 at once, and when cold cork closely. Time, an 
 hour to prepare. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Suf- 
 ficient, mix a table-spoonful of the syrup with 
 half a tumblerful of water. 
 
 LEMON AND LIVER SAUCE FOR FOWLS. 
 
 Wash and score the liver of the fowl, and 
 boil it for five minutes; drain it, and pound it 
 in a mortar with two or three spoonfuls of good 
 gravy. Pare off the thin outer rind of a lemon, 
 and mince it finely; remove the thick white 
 skin, cut the pulp into small pieces, mix with 
 it a tea^spoonful of the minced rind, add half a 
 tea-spoonful of salt, and stir this and the liver 
 into half a pint of good melted butter. Make 
 the sauce hot over the fire, but it must not boil, 
 for fear the butter should oil. Time, half an 
 hour to prepare. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient 
 for three or four persons. 
 
 LEMON AND ORANGE CANDIED RINGS FOR 
 GARNISHING. 
 
 (See Oeange and Lemon Candied Rings.) 
 
 LEMON AND RHUBARB JAM. 
 
 Rhubarb jam is very much improved if fla- 
 voured with lemon-rind. Wipe the rhubarb very 
 dry — if old, it must be skinned — cut it into 
 small pieces and weigh it. Allow a, pound of 
 sugar, the rind of half a large lemon, chopped 
 small, and half an ounce of bitter almonds to 
 each pound and a quarter of rhubarb; boil all 
 together very gently, until the sugar is dis- 
 solved, and keep stirring, to prevent burning; 
 the jam may then be allowed to boil more 
 quickly. When done, put it into jars, cover 
 with oiled and egged or gummed papers, and 
 store in a cool, dry place. Rhubarb jam should 
 be used quickly, as it does not keep well. Time 
 to boil the fruit (reckoning from the time when 
 the sugar is dissolved, and it simmers equally 
 all over), an hour for young rhubarb, an hour 
 and a half for old. Probable cost, 6d. per 
 pound. Sufficient, a pint of sliced rhubarb for 
 a pound of jam. 
 
 LEMON BISCUITS. 
 
 Rub the rind of a large fresh lemon upon a 
 quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, then crush it 
 
LEM 
 
 36G 
 
 LEM 
 
 to powder. Work three ounces of fresh butter 
 into half a pound of fine flour, add the powdered 
 sugar, and the yolks of three eggs, well beaten. 
 When thoroughly mixed, add last of all the 
 whites of the eggs, whisked to a firm froth; stir 
 all briskly for two or three minutes, then drop 
 the cakes upon a baking-pheet, a little apart 
 from each other, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 Two or three ounces of currants may be added, 
 if liked. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, lOd. Sufficient for a dozen and a half 
 biscuits. 
 
 LEMON BLANCMANGE. 
 
 Take the thin rind of two fresh lemons, and 
 put it into a basin with a quarter of a pint of 
 cold water or cold milk, and a quarter of a 
 pound of sugar, and let it stand for an hour or 
 more. Dissolve half an ounce of isinglass or 
 gelatine in a, quarter of a pint of water, and 
 when nearly cold mix it with the lemon-water. 
 Add the yolks of three eggs, beaten up with half 
 a pint of thick cream, put the mixture into a 
 jug^Lplace it in a pan of boiling water, and stir 
 it over the fire for ten minutes ; then pour it 
 out, stir it again until nearly cold, to prevent 
 it skinning, and put it into a wet mould. 
 Time to prepare, an hour, and a half. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. lOd. Sufficient for a pint of 
 blancmange. 
 
 LEMON BLANCMANGE (another way). 
 
 Put half a pint of milk into a saucepan with 
 the thin rind of a lemon and two ounces of 
 ground rice, and stir the mixture over the fire 
 until it thickens. Add some custard made with 
 half a pint of milk and the well-beaten yolks of 
 three eggs, and mix both custard and ground 
 rice thoroughly; sweeten with a quarter of a 
 pound of sugar, add half an ounce of isinglass 
 or gelatine, dissolved in aiiother half-pint of 
 milk, and when nearly cold stir in the strained 
 lemon-juice. Put the mixture into an oiled 
 mould, and turn it out when wanted. Time, 
 an hour to prepare. Probable cost, la. 2d. 
 Sufficient for a quart mould. 
 
 LEMON BRANDY (for flavouring Custards and sweet 
 dishes). 
 Take the thin rind of half a dozen fresh 
 lemons, and put it in a bottle with a pint 
 of brandy. Let it infuse for six weeks, then 
 strain the liquid, and put it in small bottles, 
 cork and seal securely, and put aside for use. 
 Probable cost, lemons. Id. each. Sufficient for 
 a pint of lemon brandy. 
 
 LEMON BRANDY (another way). 
 (^ee Bbandt, Lemon.) 
 
 LEMON BREAD PUDDING, BAKED. 
 
 Grate three ounces of the stale crumb of bread 
 very finely, mix with it three table-spoonfuls of 
 sugar and the grated rind of three lemons ; add 
 a quarter of a pint of cream and the same of 
 milk. Mix the ingredients very thoroughly, 
 then add the strained juice of the lemons, and 
 six well-beaten eggs, omitting the whites of 
 two. Butter a pie-dish, pour in the mixture, 
 and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, 
 about an hour. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Suffi- 
 cient for four or five persons. 
 
 LEMON BREAD PUDDING, BOILED. 
 
 Shred a quarter of a pound of beef suet very 
 finely, add a pinch of salt, six ounces of finely 
 grated bread-crumbs, a table-spoonful of flour, 
 three table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, the finely 
 minced rind and strained juice of a lemon, half 
 a pint of milk, and two eggs well beaten. Mix 
 thoroughly. Butter a plain pudding-mould 
 rather thickly, ornament the inside with raisins, 
 candied, fruit, or sliced lemon-rind, pour in the 
 pudding, cover it with a floured cloth, plunge 
 it into boiling water, and let it boil quickly until 
 done enough. Turn it out on a dish, and send 
 to table a sauce made as follows, poured round 
 it. Put the thin rind and juice of a lemon in 
 hall a pint of water, add two table-spoonfuls of 
 sugar, and simmer gently over the fire for 
 twenty minutes; add two or three drops of 
 cochineal and a table-spoonful of gin, and it is 
 ready to serve. Time to boil, three hours. 
 Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 LEMON BRFAD PUDDINGS, BOILED (another way}. 
 Mix half a pound of grated bread-crumbs 
 with a quarter of a pound of finely-shredded suet 
 or beef marrow. Add a pinch of salt, two table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar, the grated rind and strained 
 juice of a fresh lemon, a table-spoonful of flour, 
 and three well-beaten eggs. Beat for ten min- 
 utes. Divide the mixture into half a dozen 
 balls, tie these in small floured cloths, plunge 
 them into boiling water, and boil quickly. 
 Serve with brandy sauce. Time to boil, one 
 hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. 
 
 LEMON CAKE. 
 
 Beat the yolks of six eggs thoroughly. Add 
 half a pound of sifted sugar, the grated rind of 
 a lemon, and two table-spoonfuls of orange- 
 flower water. Beat all together for some min- 
 utes. Dredge in gradually six ounces of flour, 
 add the strained lemon-juice and the whites of 
 the eggs whisked to a firm froth. Mix thor- 
 oughly, put the mixture into buttered tins, and 
 bake immediately. Time to bake, about an 
 hour. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for a pint 
 mould. 
 
 LEMON CAKE, RICH. 
 
 Beat three-quarters of a pound of fresh but- 
 ter to a cream. Work into it six ounces of dried 
 flour, and add three-quarters of a pound of 
 powdered sugar, the grated rind of two lemony, 
 and the well-beaten yolks of nine eggs. When 
 thoroughly mixed, stir in the white of six eggs, 
 beaten to a firm froth, and two table-spoonfuls 
 of brandy. Put the mixture into a well-but- 
 tered mould, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 Time to bake, nearly an hour. Probable cost, 
 2s. 6d. Sufficient for a pint and a half mould. 
 
 LEMON CALF'S FOOT JELLY. 
 
 (See Cai.p's Foot Jelly, Lemon.) 
 
 LEMON CARAMEL. 
 
 Break half a pound of loaf sugar to pieces. 
 Barely cover it with water, and boil it to the 
 snap (see Sugar Boiling); then keep stirring 
 it until it becomes slightly coloured. Draw it 
 near the side, and add six or seven drops of the 
 
LEM 
 
 367 
 
 LEM 
 
 essence of lemcm — the quantity to be regulated 
 by taste. Pour the mixture upon an oiled 
 baking-sheet; mark it in squares with the back 
 of a knife, and let it get quite cold. Time, 
 about half an hour. Probable cost, 3d. 
 
 LEMON CHEESE. 
 
 Soak one and a half, ounces of, Erench leaf 
 gelatine until dissolved ; pour over it a full pint 
 of boiling water, then add half a pound of sugar, 
 half a tea-spoonful of citric acid, and the juice 
 of two lemons. Leave until nearly cold. Beat 
 the whites of two eggs well, and whisk together 
 with the other ingredients to a stiff froth. 
 LEMON CHEESECAKES. 
 
 Rub the peel off two large lemons with half 
 a pound of loaf sugar. Crush the sugar to 
 powder, and mix it with half a pound of clari- 
 fied butter, add six well-beaten eggs, five table- 
 spoonfuls of cream, and the strained juice of 
 one of the lemons. Stir all together over a 
 slow fire until the mixture begins to thicken. 
 Let it get cold. Line patty-pans with good puff 
 paste — rather more than fill them — and bake in 
 a quick oven. Time to bake, a quarter of an 
 hour. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient for 
 three dozen cheesecakes. 
 
 LEMON CHEESECAKES (another way). 
 
 Simmer together over a slow fire a pound of 
 loaf sugar, four ounces of fresh butter, four 
 well-beaten eggs, and the juice and finely- 
 minced rind of two lemons. Stir one way, and 
 when the sugar is dissolved, and the mixture is 
 smooth and of the consistency of honey, pour it 
 into a bowl. When cool, it is ready to put into 
 the patty-pans. _ Time to bake, a quarter of an 
 hour. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for two 
 dozen cheesecakes. 
 LEMON CHEESECAKES (that wiJI keep). 
 
 Rub a pound of loaf sugar upon the rind of 
 two large fresh lemons until all the yellow part 
 is taken off. Crush it to powder, and mix with 
 it the strained juice of the lemons, the yolks of 
 six and the whites of four well-beaten eggs, 
 three sponge biscuits, grated, and four ounces 
 of sweet butter. Put all together in a sauce- 
 pan over the fire, and stir one way until the 
 mixture is as thick as honey. It may be used 
 at once, or, if preferred, may be put into a 
 jar and covered closely. If kept in a cool, dry 
 place, the mixture will remain good for two or 
 three years. Time, half an hour to prepare. 
 Probable cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient for three dozen 
 cheesecakes. 
 LEMON CREAM. 
 
 Take the thin rind of one large or two small 
 fresh lemons, and put it into a pint of cream. 
 Let it soak for half an hour, then stir in four 
 ounces of sifted sugar and the strained juice of 
 the lemon. When well mixed, add one ounce of 
 dissolved and cooled isinglass. Take out the 
 lemon-rind, pour the mixture immediately into 
 a well-oiled mould, and put it into a cool place 
 to set. Time, about half an hour to prepare. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 9d. Sufficient for a pint and 
 a half mould. 
 LEMON CREAMS. 
 
 Put the thin rind of two lemons, and a dozen 
 sweet almonds, blanched and sliced, into a pint 
 
 of cream, and let it stand two or three hours 
 till the flavour is thoroughly extracted. If ex- 
 pedition is required, put the cream, etc., into a 
 saucepan, and place it near the fire for half an 
 hour. Put the cream into a jug, and let it cool, 
 then pour it from a good height into another 
 jug containing the strained juice of the lemons, 
 half a tumblerful of sherry, and three ounces of 
 pounded sugar, and continue pouring backwards 
 and forwards until the cream is nicely frothed. 
 Serve in glasses. Probable cost. Is. lOd., ex- 
 clusive of the sherry. Sufficient for a pint and 
 a half of cream. 
 
 LEMON CREAMS (another way). 
 
 Soak one ounce of isinglass for five minutes in 
 half a pint of sherry or Madeira. Dissolve 
 it over the fire, stirring gently all the time. Rub 
 six ounces of loaf sugar on the rind of two 
 large, fresh lemons, and add it, with the 
 strained juice of the lemons, to the hot isinglass. 
 Pour the whole gently into a bowl containing a 
 pint of cream or new milk, stir all together for 
 a short time, then put the liquid into a damp 
 mould. Time, about an hour to prepare. Prob- 
 able cost, exclusive of the wine, 3s. Sufficient 
 for a quart mould. 
 
 LEMON CREAM SPONGE. 
 
 Flavour a pint of cream with the rasped rind 
 of a lemon, and sugar to taste. Set it in a 
 warm corner of the stove, but do not let it boil. 
 Dissolve half an ounce of isinglass separately in 
 a little milk, and add it to the cream. Set the 
 mixture aside to get cold. Add the strained 
 juice of a lemon, and the beaten white of an 
 egg, and whisk thoroughly. 
 
 LEMON CREAMS WITHOUT CREAM. 
 
 Put the thin rinds of two, and the strained 
 juice of three lemons into a pint of spring water. 
 Let them soak for an hour or two. Add six 
 well-beaten eggs, and four ounces of loaf sugar, 
 set all together over the fire, and stir constantly 
 until the mixture thickens, but do not allow it 
 to boil. Strain it, when cool, into glasses. 
 Time, a few minutes to thicken the cream. 
 Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for a pint and <* 
 half of cream. 
 
 LEMON CURD. 
 
 Take one pound of sifted sugar, the rind and 
 juice of three large lemons, six ounces of clari- 
 fied butter, and the yolks of twelve eggs. Melt 
 the sugar and bvitter by very gentle heat, and 
 stir in the grated rind and the strained juice of 
 the lemons. Stir all together until it is like' 
 honey. Have ready in a basin the yolks of the 
 eggs, carefully beaten and strained. Add the 
 warm mixture to the eggs by degrees, and beat 
 it for several minutes. If not sufficiently thick 
 return it to the pan for a few minutes. When 
 quite cold it should be put in small jars, covered 
 with bladder or vegetable parchment, and stored 
 like jam. 
 LEMON CURD PUDDING. 
 
 Stir four ounces of butter and seven ounces of 
 sugar over a slow fire to boiling point, then 
 pour into a, basin, and leave till nearly cold. 
 Whisk six eggs well, and gradually mix them 
 with the butter and sugar, and a large dessert- 
 spoonful of flour. Add the grated peel and 
 
LEM 
 
 3G8 
 
 LEM 
 
 strained juice of two lemons. Line a pie-dish 
 with puff-paste, pour in the mixture, and bake 
 one hour in a slow oven. 
 
 LEMON CUSTARD. 
 
 Put the thin rind of two lemons into a pint of 
 cream, and soak until the flavour is extracted. 
 Boil the cream, and pour it gradually over the 
 well-whisked yolks of eight eggs. Remove the 
 iemou-rind, add a table-spoonful of brandy, and 
 two table-spoonfuls of Madeira. Pour the mix- 
 ture into a jug, place it in a pan of boiling 
 water, and stir one way until the contents 
 thicken. Serve either in cups or on a dish. 
 Time, half an hour to" prepare. Probable cost, 
 exclusive of the brandy and wine, 2s. 4d. Suf- 
 ficient for a pint and a half of custard. 
 
 VEMON CUSTARD, OR CREAMSt WITHOUT EGGS. 
 
 Strain the juice of two lemons upon two 
 ounces of powdered loaf sugar. Soak the thin 
 rinds of the lemons in a pint of cream, and 
 when the flavour is extracted, boil the liquid, let 
 it cool, and pour it very gradually over the juice 
 and sugar. Add half a glass of brandy, and 
 serve either in a dish or in cups. This custard 
 will keep for a day or two if put in a cool place. 
 Time, a few minutes to thicken the custard. 
 Probable cost, la. lOd. Sufficient for a pint of 
 custard. 
 
 LEMON DROPS. 
 
 Strain the juice of three or four large lemons 
 into a bowl, then mix powdered loaf sugar with 
 it until it is quite thick. Put it into a pan, 
 and let it boil for five minutes, stirring it con- 
 stantly. Drop it from the end of a spoon upon 
 writing-paper, and when cold, keep the drops in 
 tin canisters until wanted for use. Or, take two 
 ounces of powdered loaf sugar, mix with them 
 the grated rind of three large lemons, and half 
 a tea-spoonful of fine flour. Whisk the white of 
 an egg thoroughly. Work it up with the other 
 ingredients to a light paste, then place it in 
 drops upon a sheet of writing-paper, and dry 
 before the fire until the drops are quite hard. 
 Time, half an hour to prepare. Probable erst. 
 Id. per ounce. 
 
 LEMON DUMPLINGS. 
 
 Mix six ounces of finely-shredded beef suet 
 with half a pound of grated bread-crumbs; or, 
 if preferred, in equal quantities. Add four 
 table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, the chopped rind 
 and strained juice of a large lemon, a beaten 
 egg, and half a pint of new milk. When thor- 
 oughly mixed, divide the paste into half a 
 dozen parts. Put each part into » small but- 
 tered cup, tie it in a cloth, and boil quickly until 
 it is done enough. Serve the dumplings hot, 
 with a little sauce made of three ounces of sugar 
 boiled with the rind of a lemon, and the strained 
 juice, and half a pint of water, until the sugar 
 is dissolved. A glass of sherry and two or three 
 drops of cochineal may be added. Time to boil, 
 one hour. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 LEMON, ESSENCE OF. 
 
 Choose fresh, sound lemons, wipe them well 
 with a soft oloth, then take two or three large 
 lumps of sugar and rub the yellow rind entirely 
 off. Powder the sugar, put it into a glass jar. 
 
 press it down, and cover it carefully to exclude 
 the air, as the flavour of lemon quickly evapor- 
 ates. Keep it in a, cool dry place. Time, half 
 an hour to prepare. Probable cost of lemons, 
 Id. each. A very small portion of the essence 
 of lemon will flavour a pint of custard. 
 
 LEMON, ESSENCE OF, ARTIFICIAL. 
 
 Mix gradually a drachm of the best oil of 
 lemons with two ounces of rectified spirits of 
 wine. Cork securely. 
 
 LEMON FILLED WITH JELLY. 
 
 Cut a small round about the size of a shilling 
 from the stalk end of each lemon with a small 
 sharp silver knife, then scoop out the inside 
 with the handle of a tea-spoon, taking great 
 care not to injure the rind. Throw the skins 
 into cold water for an hour to harden them, 
 drain them on a sieve, and when they are quite 
 dry inside, half fill them with pink jelly. Place 
 them in rows upon ice, and when the jelly is 
 firm fill them up with white jelly, blancmange, 
 or cream. Lay them on the ice once more, and, 
 before serving, cut them neatly into quarters 
 with a sharp knife. They should be arranged 
 prettily on a glass dish, with a sprig of myrtle 
 between each quarter. Probable cost of lemons. 
 Id. each. -• 
 
 LEMON FLOATING ISLAND. 
 
 Take half a dozen frSsh eggs, separate the 
 whites and the yolks ; beat the whites to a solid 
 froth, sweeten them, and flavour with two or 
 three drops of the essence of lemon. Beat the 
 yolks, mix them with a pint and a half of milk, 
 flavour strongly with lemon, and stir the cus- 
 tard over a gentle flre until it thickens, but it 
 must not boil. Take it off the fire, and when 
 nearly cool, add very gradually a table-spoonful 
 of lemon-juice. Pour it into a glass dish, and 
 pile the whites upon it. Garnish according to 
 taste. A small piece of red-currant jelly placed 
 here and there is an improvement, or half of the 
 froth may be thickly coloured with cochiuta). 
 Time, a few minutes to thicken the custard. 
 Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 LEMON FRITTERS. 
 
 Shred two ounces of beef suet very finely, add 
 a dessert-spoonful of flour, three ounces of fine 
 bread-crumbs, the grated rind of a large lemon, 
 and two table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar. 
 When the dry ingredients are thoroughly 
 blended, stir in a table-spoonful of milk, two 
 well-beaten eggs, and a table-spoonful of 
 strained lemon-juice. Fry the mixture in small 
 quantities until lightly browned on each side ; 
 drain, and serve as hot as possible. Time, 
 five or six minutes to fry. Probable cost," 6d . 
 Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 LEMON GINGERBREAD. 
 
 (Se,e GiNQEEBEEAD, LeMON.) 
 
 LEMON HONEYCOMB. 
 
 Mix the whites of two eggs with a pint of 
 cream. Sweeten it, and flavour with a little 
 grated lemon-rind. Whip it briskly, and as the 
 froth rises place it upon the strained and sweet- 
 ened juice of two lemons. Let it remain a few 
 hours before being used. The juice should be 
 
LEM 
 
 369 
 
 LEM 
 
 put into the glass dish in which the honeycomb 
 is to be served. Time to whip the cream, about 
 half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 LEMON ICE CREAM. 
 
 Basp the yellow rind of two large fresh lemons 
 upon half a pound of loaf sugar. Powder it, and 
 strain over it the juice of one lemon. Add a 
 quart of cream, stir until the sugar is dissolved, 
 freeze, and serve. If milk has to be substituted 
 for the cream, it may be enriched by the addi^ 
 tion of the yolks of four eggs. It must then be 
 stirred over the fire until it is boiling hot, and 
 the juice must not be added until the liquor has 
 cooled. Time, half an hour to prepare. Prob- 
 able cost, 4s. if made with cream. Is. if made 
 with milk. Sufficient for rather less than three 
 pints of cream. 
 
 LEMON ISINGLASS, OR GELATINE, JELLY. 
 
 Hub the yellow rind of three large fresh lemons 
 upon half a pound of sugar. Pour over it the 
 carefully-strained jjiice of six lemons, and put 
 it into an enamelled saucepan, with one ounce 
 of isinglass, a pint of water, and a large wine- 
 glass of sherry. Stir these over the fire until 
 the isinglass is dissolved. Strain the jelly 
 through a bag, and if it is not perfectly trans- 
 parent, mix it, when quite cool, with the whites 
 and crushed shells of three eggs whisked with 
 a quarter of a pint of cold water. Let the jelly 
 boil for three minutes without stirring, then let 
 it settle for five or six minutes, and strain it 
 again. Time, about an hour to prepare. Prob- 
 able cost, exclusive of the sherry, 3s. Sufficient 
 for a quart of jelly. 
 
 LEMON JELLY, ISINGLASS, SUPERLATIVE. 
 
 Take six large fresh lemons, rub them well 
 with a soft cloth, then pare the rind very thinly 
 from three of them, and throw it into a syrup 
 made by boiling a pound of refined sugar in a 
 pint of water for six minutes. Strain the juice 
 of all the lemons through muslin, and when the 
 syrup is cool, mix them together. Put two 
 ounces and a half of best isinglass into an 
 enamelled saucepan, and pour over it a pint 
 of spring water which has been beaten up with 
 half the white of an egg. Stir the liquid gently 
 until a scum begins to form, then let it boil 
 softly and skim it carefully. When it has boiled 
 for five minutes, strain it, and mix it with the 
 clarified syrup. Add a little sherry if this is 
 wished, and run the jelly through muslin until 
 it is quite clear. Put it into damp. moulds, and 
 stand these in a cool place or upon ice until it 
 is set. Before turning out, dip the mould for 
 a moment in hot water, then turn it upside 
 down on the dish. Serve at once. Time, an 
 hour and a half to prepare. Probable cost, ex- 
 clusive of the sherry, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for three 
 pints of jelly. 
 
 LEMON JUICE, ARTIFICIAL, FOR FISH, SAUCES, 
 ETC. 
 
 Put half a dozen drops of the essence of lemon 
 upon a lump of sugar. Pound it to powder, and 
 stir it into three ounces of pyroligneous vine- 
 gar. Use as required. 
 LEMON JUICE, TO PRESERVE. 
 
 Choose fine fresh lemons, and squeeze the juice 
 from them. Strain it through muslin, and put 
 Y 
 
 it into bottles, pour over it sufficient olive-oil 
 to cover it entirely, and cork the bottles se- 
 curely. It will keep for some time. Or, put half 
 a pint of strained lemon-juice into a basin, and 
 with it half a pound of finely-pounded and sifted 
 loaf sugar. Stir it with a silver spoon until the 
 sugar is dissolved. Put it into small bottles, 
 cork it closely, and tie bladder over the corks. 
 Prohable cost of lemons. Id. each. 
 LEMON JUICE, TO PURIFY. 
 
 Strain one pint of lemon-juice through 
 muslin; mix with it half an ounce of pounded 
 charcoal, and let it remain until the next day; 
 run it through blotting-paper, so as not to dis- 
 turb the sediment. Bottle it, cork it tightly, 
 and tie bladder over the corks. Keep it in a 
 cool, dry place. Probable cost of lemons. Id. 
 each. 
 LEMON KALI. 
 
 Take two parts of sifted sugar, one part of 
 powdered and dried citric acid, and a little more 
 than one part of powdered bicarbonate of potash. 
 Mix thoroughly, and keep in a closely-stoppered 
 bottle. Probable cost. Is. 4d. per pound. Suf- 
 ficient, a. tea-spoonful for half a tumblerful of 
 water. 
 LEMON KETCHUP. 
 
 Take six large fresh lemons. Cut off the rind 
 very thinly. Make a deep incision in the end 
 of each, fill it with salt, and afterwards rub salt 
 all over them, using not less than three ounces. 
 Let the lemons stand in a warm place for seven 
 or eight days ; then put them into an earthen 
 jar, strew over them a quarter of an ounce each 
 of mace, cloves, and cayenne; add two ounces 
 of horse-radish, and, if the flavour is liked, qne 
 ounce of garlic or shallots. Put a. pint and a 
 half of best white vinegar into a saucepan, with 
 half a blade of mace, and half an ounce of 
 bruised ginger. Simmer it gently for three 
 minutes, then pour it hot upon the lemons, etc. 
 This pickle may stand for five months before it is 
 strained; though, if required, it can be used 
 at the end of two months. The colour would be 
 improved if two or three bruised tomatoes were 
 put with it. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient 
 for one quart of ketchup. 
 LEMON KETCHUP (a quick way of making). 
 
 Take half a dozen fresh lemons. Cut them into 
 slices, remove the pips, rub them well with three 
 ounces- of salt, place them in layers in a stone 
 jar, and strew a little seasoning and spice be- 
 tween each layer, allowing a quarter of an ounce 
 each of mace, cloves, and cayenne, two ounces 
 of horse-radish, two ounces of mustard-seed, two 
 ounces of allspice, and two ounces of white 
 pepper. Boil two quarts of white vinegar, pour 
 it hot upon the lemons, and let it stand until 
 the next day. Strain, and bottle for use. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 6d. per quart. Sufficient for two 
 quarts. 
 LEMON LIQUOR. 
 
 Infuse the thin rind of two large, fresh lemons 
 in a pint of rectified spirits of wine, for ten days. 
 At the end of that time, strain, and mix with 
 it the juice of the lemons and a syrup made by 
 boiling half a pound of refined sugar in a pint 
 of water for five minutes. Pour the liquor into 
 bottles, cork securely, and tie bladder over the 
 
LEM 
 
 370 
 
 L.EM 
 
 corks. Probable cost, 5d., exclusive of the 
 spirit. Sufficient for a little more than a quart 
 ot liquor. 
 
 LEMON MARMALADE. 
 
 Take some fresh clear lemons. Boil them for 
 two hours in as much water as will cover them. 
 Pour off the water once or twice during that 
 time, and replace it with fresh boiling water. 
 Drain the lemons, and cut them into thin slices. 
 Leave out all the pips and weigh the fruit, and 
 allow two pounds of loaf sugar and a pint of 
 the water the lemons were last boiled in for every 
 pound of fruit. Boil the sugar and water for 
 ten minutes. Put in the pulp, etc., and boil 
 together for half an hour. Pour the marmalade 
 into jars; when cool, cover it with brandied 
 paper, and afterwards with bladder or tissue- 
 
 Saper brushed over either with white of egg or 
 issolved gum. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. 
 
 LEMON MARMALADE (another way). 
 
 Boil and slice the lemons as in the last recipe ; 
 mix them thoroughly • with an equal weight of 
 apple pulp. Make a syrup, by boiling one pint 
 01 water with every two pounds of sugar, allow- 
 ing two pounds of sugar to every pound of fruit. 
 Boil the sugar and water together for ten 
 minutes, put in the fruit, and boil again until 
 it is clear. Put it into jars, let it cool, and 
 cover in the usual way. Time, two hours to 
 boil the lemons; forty minutes the marmalade. 
 Probable cost, 8d. per pound. 
 
 LEMON MINCEMEAT. 
 
 Peel two large fresh lemons very thinly, 
 squeeze the juice from them, being careful to 
 leave out the pips, and boil the rind until it 
 is tender enough to beat to a paste. Add four 
 sharp apples, pared, cored, and chopped small, 
 half a pound of finely-shredded suet, a pound 
 of currants, half a pound of good moist sugar, 
 two ounces of candied lemon and citron, half a 
 nutmeg, grated, a, quarter of a tea-spoonful of 
 powdered mace, a small pinch of salt, and the 
 lemon-juice. Mix all thoroughly, then put the 
 mincemeat into a jar with a closely-fitting lid, 
 and let it remain for a week before it is used. 
 A little brandy may be added if liked. Just 
 before making the meat, up into pies, add three 
 or four macaroons crushed to powder. Time, an 
 hour to prepare. Probable cost. Is. 6d., ex- 
 clusive of the brandy. Sufficient for two dozen 
 small pies. 
 
 LEMON OR ORANGE SHRUB. 
 
 Take two lemons and six Seville oranges, 
 grate off the rinds and squeeze out the juice ; to 
 one pint of juice add a pound and a half of 
 powdered loaf sugar. Stir the sugar till it is 
 dissolved, and add a quart of the best Jamaica 
 rum. Pour it into a jar, and shake it three times 
 daily for three weeks. Let it stand in a cool 
 place till clear. Then filter, arid bottle for use. 
 
 LEMON PASTE FOR DESSERT. 
 
 Choose sound fresh lemons, boil them in two 
 or three waters, and season the first with a 
 handful of salt. When they are tender, drain 
 and let them cool, then put them into a bowl, 
 and beat them to a pulp with a rolling-pin. 
 Pass this pulp through a sieve, and squeeze it 
 well to cause as much as possible to go through. 
 
 Weigh the pulp. Mix with it an equal quantity 
 of pounded sugar, and stir it without ceasing 
 until it is so dry as to leave the sides of the 
 saucepan and come up with the spoon. Press it 
 into shallow dishes, and put these into a cool 
 oven until the paste is quite dry. It may then be 
 cut into small squares, strips, or any other shape. 
 These should be placed in single layers in a tin 
 box, with foolscap paper between the layers. 
 Time, altogether, about four hours. Probable 
 cost of lemons. Id. each. 
 
 LEMON PATTIES. 
 
 Rub the rind of a fresh lemon with three 
 ounces of loaf sugar. Crush it to powder, and 
 mix it with the finely-grated crumb of a penny 
 loaf. Pour over the mixture a quarter of a pint 
 of boiling milk, and soak for half an hour. At 
 the end of that time stir in two ounces of clari- 
 fied butter and two well-beaten eggs. Butter 
 some small cups, rather more than half fill them 
 with the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven 
 for twenty minutes. Whpn done, turn the 
 patties out on a hot dish, and send wine sauce 
 to table with them. Probable cost, 8d. Suf- 
 ficient for half a dozen patties. 
 
 LEMON PEEL, TINCTURE OF. 
 
 Take the thin rind of a large fresh lemon. 
 Put it in a bottle with half a pint of brandy, and 
 let it infuse for a fortnight. At the end of that 
 time the brandy will be strongly impregnated 
 with the flavour of the lemon, and should be 
 strained, corked closely, and put aside for use. 
 Probable cost of lemon. Id. Sufficient, a tea- 
 spoonful will flavour a pint of custard, etc. 
 
 LEMON PEEL, TO CANDY. 
 
 Choose sound fresh lemons, cut them into 
 quarters lengthwise, remove the pulp entirely, 
 and put the pieces of rind into salt and water for 
 three days, and afterwards into cold water for a 
 day. Boil them in fresh cold water until they 
 are tender. Drain them, and cover them with 
 their syrup, made in the proportion of a pound 
 of sugar to every quart of lemon-juice pressed 
 from the pulp. When they look clear, which 
 will be in half an hour, drain them again, 
 make a thick syrup, allowing for this a 
 pound of sugar to every pint or water, put them 
 in, and boil over a slow fire until tJie syrup 
 candies. Take out the lem-ons, drain them, and 
 dry them in a cool oven. Store in a cool, dry 
 place. Probable cost of lemons. Id. each. 
 
 LEMON PEEL, TO KEEP FOR USE. 
 
 Lemons should be kept in a cool, dry place, 
 and each one should be hung in a separate net, 
 for if they touch one another they will spoil. 
 The rind may be grated, put into jars, and 
 covered with either salt or sugar, according to 
 the nature of the dish for which it is afterwards 
 to be used. 
 
 LEMON PEEL, TO PRESERVE FOR GARNISHING. 
 
 Cut lemon-rind into thin slices. Prepare a 
 syrup by boiling a pint of sugar with three- 
 quarters of a pint of water until the sugar is 
 dissolved. Put in the rind, and simmer both 
 together for a quarter of an hour. When cool, 
 put into pots, cover closely, and store in a cool, 
 dry place. Lemon thus prepared is useful for gar- 
 nishing dishes. Probable cost of lemons. Id. each. 
 
LEM 
 
 371 
 
 LEM 
 
 LEMON, PICKLED. 
 
 Take a dozen fresli sound lemons, small, and 
 with thick rinds. Eub them with a piece of 
 flannel, and slit them down in four quarters 
 through the rind only, without breaking the 
 fruit. Fill the openings with salt, pressed hard 
 in, and set them upright in a deep pan, which 
 must be put in a warm place until the salt 
 melts. Turn them three times a day, and baste 
 them often in the liquor until they are tender. 
 Drain this liquor from them, and put them into 
 earthen jars. Boil the brine with two quarts of 
 good vinegar, half a pound of bruised ginger, 
 three ounces of black pepper, six ounces of mus- 
 tard-seed, and an ounce of Jamaica pepper. 
 Pour it, when ioiling, upon the lemons, with an 
 equal quantity of the seasoning in each jar, and 
 when cool, cover with thick paper. The lemons 
 must be kept well covered with vinegar, and as 
 it evaporates more must be added. When the 
 lemons are used the liquid will be useful in 
 making fish and other sauces. This pickle will 
 keep for years, but it ought to be kept twelve 
 months before it is used. If wanted sooner, 
 however, bake the lemons in a very cool oven 
 for six or seven hours. The best time for making 
 this pickle is from November to April. Time, ten 
 days to melt the salt. Probable cost of lemons. 
 Id. each. 
 
 LEMON PUDDING, BAKED. 
 
 Beat two ounces of fresh butter to a cream, 
 mix with it three ounces of powdered sugar, the 
 beaten yolks of three eggs, the well-whisked 
 white of one egg, and the grated rind of a- small 
 fresh lemon. When these are thoroughly mixed, 
 add the strained juice of the lemon, pour it in 
 gently, and stir briskly all the time. Line the 
 edges of a small pie-dish with good puff paste, 
 pour in the mixture, and bake in a slow oven 
 for twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, 6d. 
 Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 LEMON PUDDING, BAKED (another and a richer 
 way). 
 Crush four ounces of ratafias to powder, and 
 strain over it the juice of four fresh lemons ; add 
 the grated rind of two lemons, four ounces of 
 powdered sugar, three-quarters of a pint of 
 cream, the eighth of a nutmeg, grated, a small 
 pinch of salt, the beaten yolks of six and the 
 well-whisked whites of three eggs. Line the 
 edges of a pie-dish with good puff paste, put in 
 the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven until 
 the pudding is lightly browned, which will be 
 in about half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 8d. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 LEMON PUDDING, BOILED. 
 
 Shred six ounces of beef suet very finely. Mix 
 with it half a pound of bread-crumbs, half a 
 pound of sugar, a tea-spoonful of salt, the rind 
 of two large lemons chopped small, the strained 
 juice of one, and two well-beaten eggs. Pour 
 the mixture into a buttered mould, plunge it 
 into boiling water, and boil it quickly and con- 
 tinuously. Serve brandy sauce with it. If pre- 
 ferred, one ounce of ginger or half a pound of 
 chopped figs may be substituted for the lemon- 
 rind, but the juice should not be omitted. Time 
 to boil, four hours. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. 
 
 LEMON PUFFS. 
 
 Grate the rind of two fresh lemons, and mix 
 it with ten ounces of finely-sifted sugar. Beat 
 the whites of two eggs to a firm froth, add the 
 sugar very gradually, and whisk all together 
 to a thick paste. Cut it into any shape that 
 may be preferred, but be careful not to handle 
 the paste any more than can be helped. Place 
 the puffs on oiled writing-paper, and bake upon 
 tins in a moderate oven for about ten minutes. 
 Probable cost, 7d. 
 LEMON RICE. 
 
 Put the rind of a lemon, an ounce of butter, 
 three table-spoonfuls of sugar, five or six bruised 
 almonds, and a pint and a half of milk into a 
 saucepan. When it boils, stir in quickly a quar- 
 ter of a pound of ground rice which has been 
 smoothly mixed with another half-pint of milk. 
 Continue stirring until the rice has boiled for 
 a few minutes, and until it leaves the sides of 
 the saucepan with the spoon, then take out the 
 rind, pour the rice into a well-oiled mould, and 
 put in a cool place to set. Cut the rind of 
 a lemon into strips an inch long and the eighth 
 of an inch wide, throw them into boiling water, 
 let them boil for two minutes, then drain and 
 dry them. Put six ounces of sugar into a pint 
 of water, add the juice of the lemon and the 
 strips of rind, and simmer gently for two hours. 
 When wanted for use turn out the rice, pour the 
 syrup gently over it, and take care that the 
 lemon-rind is equally distributed. Probable 
 cost, lOd. Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 LEMON RINGS. 
 
 Beat four ounces of butter to a cream, add 
 two beaten eggs separately. Mix in six ounces 
 of sugar, one pound of flour, the grated rind of 
 a lemon, a little milk, and a teaspoonful of 
 baking powder. Make into a paste, roll it out 
 to the thickness of about a quarter of an inch, 
 divide it into rounds with a cutter or a glass, 
 cut out the centres to form rings, and fry 
 to a light brown in deep hot fat. Probable 
 cost. Is. 
 
 LEMON ROCK BISCUITS. 
 
 Eub the yellow rind of two fresh lemons upon 
 a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar. Powder it, 
 and mix it gradually with the white of an egg 
 whisked to a firm froth; beat thoroughly. 
 Butter some writing-paper, place it on an oven 
 tin, drop the mixture upon it from the end of 
 a spoon in rock-like shape, and place it in a 
 cool oven to dry. Time, half an hour to bea' 
 the sugar and egg. Probable cost, 5d. 
 
 LEMON ROLY-POLY PUDDING (exceUent). 
 
 Take the pulp from two large, fresh lemons. 
 Eemove the pips, weigh the lemons, and boil 
 them with an equal weight of sugar for a quarter 
 of an hour. Turn the mixture out to cool. Mix 
 six ounces of finely-shredded suet with three- 
 quarters of a pound of flour, add a pinch of salt, 
 and as much water as will make it into a firm 
 paste. Eoll it out about half an inch in thick- 
 ness, spread the lemon mixture upon it, roll it 
 round and round into a long pudding, pinch the 
 ends securely, tie it in a floured cloth, put it into 
 boiling water, and let it boil quickly until done 
 enough, which will be in about two hours. Prob- 
 able cost, 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
LEM 
 
 372 
 
 LEM 
 
 LEMON SAGO. 
 
 Boil half a pint of sago in a quart of water till 
 it is nearly transparent. Add a breakfast-cupful 
 of sugar and three table-spoonfuls of treacle, 
 and the grated rind and strained juice of two 
 lemons. Boil all well together for a few min- 
 utes. Have ready a sufficiently large mould (or 
 moulds) rinsed out in cold water. Fill with the 
 sago, and put away in a cool place until cold 
 and set. Turn out into a glass dish, and serve 
 with cream and sugar. 
 
 LEMON SANDWICHES. 
 
 Take one pound of rich puff paste and roll it 
 out very thinly. Divide it in halves, and spread 
 over one half a layer of lemon cheesecake mix- 
 ture. Put the other half upon it, press it closely, 
 mark it lightly into diamonds, and bake in a 
 moderate oven for twenty minutes. Probable 
 cost, 2s. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 LEMON SAUCE FOR FOWLS. 
 
 Pare off the rind, and remove the thick white 
 skin and the pips from a fresh lemon. Cut it' 
 into dice, and put them into half a pint of good 
 melted butter. Make the mixture thoroughly 
 hot without bringing it to the point of boiling, 
 and serve immediately; half a tea-spoonful of 
 finely-minced lemon-rind is sometimes added. 
 Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 LEMON SAUCE, FOR FOWLS, WHITE. 
 
 Take about half a pint of white stock (or, fail- 
 ing this, boil the trimmings of the fowls with a 
 little water), put it into a saucepan with the 
 thin rind of a lemon, six white peppercorns, 
 half a blade of mace, pounded, a quarter of a 
 nutmeg, grated, a small tea-spoonful of salt, and 
 a bunch of parsley. Simmer gently for twenty 
 minutes. Strain the sauce, add half a pint of 
 good cream or milk, thicken with a dessert- 
 spoonful of flour mixed smoothly with a little 
 cold milk, and boil gently a few minutes longer. 
 Just before serving, add the strained juice of 
 the lemon, but let the savice cool a little before 
 it is put in, and stir it well or it will curdle. 
 If wanted very rich the sauce may be thickened 
 with a little butter rolled in flour. Time, twenty 
 minutes to flavour the stock. Probable cost. Is., 
 if made with cream. Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 LEMON SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS. 
 
 Put the rind and strained juice of a large 
 lemon into a bowl. Pour over them a wine-glass- 
 ful of sherry or raisin wine, and a wine-glassful 
 of water. Let them infuse some time. Mix an 
 ounce of fresh butter and an ounce of flour 
 over the flre. When it is slightly browned gradu- 
 ally pour in the wine and water, etc. ; add two 
 taole-spoonfuls of sugar, and boil gently until 
 the mixture is quite smooth. Draw the sauce- 
 pan from the flre, let the contents cool a minute, 
 then add the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. 
 Stir the mixture until it thickens, but it must 
 not be allowed to boil after the eggs are added, 
 or it will curdle. Time, four or five minutes to 
 boil the sauce Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of 
 the sherry. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 LEMON SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS (another way). 
 
 Put the thin rind of a lemon and three table- 
 spoonfuls of powdered sugar into a saucepan 
 
 with half a pint of water. Simmer gently for 
 twenty minutes, then add the Juice of the lemon 
 and a wine-glassful of gin. Strain and serve. 
 Two or three drops of cochineal may be added, 
 if liked. Probable coat, 3d. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. 
 
 LEMON SHERBET. 
 
 Eub the yellow rind of five small lemons with 
 three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar. Crush 
 the latter to powder, put it into a saucepan with 
 a pint of water, and simmer gently until the 
 sugar is dissolved. When cold, add the strained 
 juice of the lemon. Take out the rind, and 
 serve the sherbet in glasses. Time, a quarter of 
 an hour to simmer the syrup. Probable cost, 
 8d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 LEMON SHRUB. 
 
 (See Obange ob Lemon Shel'b.) 
 
 LEMON SNOW (a pretty dish for a Juvenile party). 
 Pour a pint of cold water over an ounce of 
 isinglass or gelatine. Let it soak for half an 
 hour, then put it in a saucepan over the fire, 
 with three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar and 
 the thin rind and strained juice of two fresh 
 lemons. Simmer gently, stirring it all the time, 
 until the isinglass is dissolved ; then pour it out, 
 and put it aside until it is cold and beginning 
 to set. Stir in the whites of three well-beaten 
 eggs, and whisk all together briskly until it 
 stiffens and assumes the appearance of snow, 
 then pile it lightly in a glass dish, and make it 
 look as rocky as possible. If the uniform white- 
 ness is objected to, a tea-spoonful of the small . 
 comflts called hundreds and thousands may be 
 strewn over the top just before serving, or half 
 of the snow may be coloured with two or three 
 drops of cochineal. Time to whisk the snow, 
 half an hour. Probable cost, if made with gela- 
 tine^ Is. 3d. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. 
 
 LEMON SNOW PUDDING. 
 
 Boil a pint of milk, then stir in two table- 
 spoonfuls of corn-flour, and half a breakfast- 
 cupful of sugar; let it come to boiling point, 
 take it off the fire and keep stirring till nearly 
 cold; then add the juice of three lemons and 
 the whites of five eggs beaten to a froth ; beat 
 them all together till cool. Pour the mixture 
 in a mould, and put it on ice or in a cool place 
 to set. Serve garnished with slices of lemon, 
 and with a sauce prepared as follows. Boil half 
 a pint of milk; beat up the yolks of the five 
 eggs with a little sugar, pour in the boiling 
 milk; return to the saucepan and borl. Put on 
 ice to cool. 
 
 LEMON SOLES. 
 
 (See Soles, Lemon.) 
 LEMON, SOLID. 
 
 Rub the rind of a large fresh lemon with foiir 
 ounces of sugar, crush the lumps, and put them 
 into a saucepan with half an ounce of isinglass 
 and half a pint of cream. Heat gently until 
 the isinglass is dissolved, then add another half- 
 pint of cream and a wine-glassful of brandy. 
 Stir the mixture for three or four minutes, strain 
 it through a thick fold of muslin, and when cold 
 add the juice of half a lemon. Pour it into a 
 moiild that has been soaked in cold water, and 
 
LEM 
 
 373 
 
 LEM 
 
 put it aside till set. If there is any difficulty in 
 turning it out, loosen the edges with a knife, 
 and dip the mould for an instant in hot, but not 
 boiling, water. Time, half an hour to prepare. 
 Probable cost, exclusive of the brandy. Is. 6d. 
 Sufficient for a pint and a half mould. 
 
 LEMON SOUFFLE 
 
 Mix a quarter of a pound of flour very 
 smoothly with a pint and a half of milk; add a 
 quarter of a pound of sugar which has been well 
 rubbed upon the rind of three fresh lemons, and 
 a quarter of a pound of butter, and boil gently 
 until the mixture is thick and smooth. Pour it 
 out, and stir it until it is nearly cold, then add 
 the yolks of six eggs, well beaten. Last of all, 
 whisk the whites of nine eggs to a firm froth, 
 and add them, with the strained juice of two 
 lemons, to the rest. Butter a souffle-mould 
 thickly, half fill it with the mixture, and bake 
 in a moderate oven. If it is necessary to fill the 
 mould more than half, tie a band of well-but- 
 tered white paper round the top, to prevent the 
 contents running over. Serve the souffle the 
 moment it comes out of the oven, or its appear- 
 ance will be spoilt. Time to bake, from thirty 
 to forty minutes. ■ Probable cost. Is. 8d. Suf- 
 ficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 LEMON SPONGE. 
 
 Put an ounce of isinglass or gelatine into a 
 pint of water, add the rind and juice of two 
 lemons, and half a pound of loaf sugar, and 
 simmer gently for half an hour. Strain into a 
 bowl, and when the mixture is cold and begin- 
 ning to set, which may be known by its be- 
 coming thick, stir in the whites of two eggs 
 beaten to a firm froth, and whisk it briskly until 
 it is of the consistency of sponge. Pour it into 
 a damp mould, and turn it out before serving. 
 A few drops of cochineal may be put in with the 
 eggs, if liked, to give a pink appearance. Time, 
 half an hour to whisk the sponge. Probable 
 cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient for a pint and a half 
 mould. 
 LEMON SYLLABUB. 
 
 Strain the juice of five lemons over the rind, 
 of two. Add half a pound of loaf sugar, and 
 let it remain for an hour or two. Add a pint of 
 thick cream and half a pint of sherry or raisin 
 wine, strain it, then whisk until the mixture is 
 well frothed. Pour the syllabub into glasses, 
 and let it stand ten or twelve hours before being 
 served. Time, thirty or forty minutes to whisk 
 the syllabub. Probable cost, exclusive of the 
 sherry, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for a dozen glasses. 
 
 LEMON SYRUP. 
 
 Boil six ounces of sugar in a, pint of water 
 until it is dissolved. Let it cool, then add a 
 quarter of a pint of lemon-juice and half a 
 drachm of essence of lemon. Mix thoroughly, 
 and bottle for use. Time, a quarter of an hour 
 to boil the syrup. Probable cost, 8d. Suf- 
 ficient, two table-spoonfuls of syrup to a tum- 
 blerful of cold water. 
 
 LEMON TARTLETS. 
 
 Rub a quarter of a pound of sugar in lumps 
 over the rind of a fine fresh lemon, strain the 
 juice over the sugar, and crush it well ; then 
 add two ounces of clarified butter, a tea-spoon- 
 
 ful of bread-crumbs, and two well-beaten eggs. 
 Line some patty-pans with good puff-paste, 
 three-parts fill them with the mixture, and bake 
 in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. Prob- 
 able cost. Id. each. Sufficient for eight tartlets. 
 
 LEMON TEA. 
 
 A cooling and invigorating drink may be 
 made as follows. Make some tea rather weak, 
 and pour it quickly from the leaves. Add an 
 equal measure of lemonade, and sugar to taste. 
 When extra acidity is wanted a pinch of citric 
 acid may be added. This beverage may be 
 taken either hot or cold, and it is improved by 
 icing. 
 
 LEMON, TINCTURE OF, FOR FLAVOURING. 
 
 Put half an ounce pf the thin rind of a fresh 
 lemon in a pint bottle with eight ounces of best 
 brandy or rectified spirits of wine. Let it soak 
 for a fortnight, at the end of which time the 
 spirit will be strongly impregnated with the 
 flavour of the lemon. If not sufficiently strong, 
 however, an ounce of recently-prepared oil of 
 lemons may be added. Strain the liquid, put it 
 into small bottles, and cork securely. Prob- 
 able cost of lemons. Id. each. Sufficient, a few 
 drops will flavour a pint. 
 LEMON TURNOVERS. 
 
 Eub an ounce of loaf sugar upon the rind of 
 a lemon. Crush it, and dissolve it in two table- 
 spoonfuls of milk. Add three dessert-spoonfuls 
 of flour, two ounces of clarified butter, and two 
 well-beaten eggs. Stir all over the fire for a 
 minute. Take a pound of good pastry; divide 
 it into six or eight pieces, and roll each piece 
 out to a round shape, about the size of a saucer. 
 Spread a little of the mixture on one half of the 
 round, fold the other half over, fasten the edges 
 securely, and bake on a buttered tin in a 
 moderate oven. Before serving, sift a little 
 sugar over the turnovers. Time to bake, 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost, a halfpenny 
 each. Sufficient for six or eight turnovers. 
 
 LEMON WATER. 
 
 Take the rind from a large fresh lemon, re- 
 move the thick white skin, and cut the fruit into 
 thin slices. Put these into a jug with half the 
 rind and two table-spoonfuls of capillaire. Pour 
 over all a quart of boiling water, and cover 
 closely for three hours. This is a refreshing 
 beverage for hot weather. Probable cost, 2d. 
 Sufficient for a quart of liquid. Capillaire can 
 be obtained at most Italian warehouses. 
 
 LEMON WATER ICE. 
 
 Rub the rind of six lemons upon twelve large 
 lumps of sugar, squeeze over them the strained 
 juice, add half a pint of water and a pint of 
 syrup, made by boiling three-quarters of a 
 pound of sugar in three-quarters of a pint of 
 water until the sugar is dissolved. Put all to- 
 gether into a jug, and leave it for an hour or 
 two. Then mix, strain, and freeze in the usual 
 way. Serve in glasses. The ice will be much 
 improved if, when it is beginning to set, the 
 whites of three eggs, beaten to a firm froth, and 
 mixed with six ounces of powdered sugar, are 
 stirred into it. The preparation should be left 
 in the ice until wanted. Sufficient for ten 
 persons. 
 
LEM 
 
 374 
 
 LEN 
 
 LEMON WHEY. 
 
 Put half a pint of milk into a saucepan. 
 When it boils, pour in a table-spoonful of lemon- 
 juice; add more if this does not effectually turn 
 the milk. Let it boil up, then put it into a 
 bowl to settle; strain and sweeten, and add a 
 little hot water if the whey is too acid to be 
 agreeable. This whey is excellent for inducing 
 perspiration. Time, a tew minutes. Probable 
 cost, 3d. Sufficient for rather less than half a 
 pint of whey. 
 
 LEMON WHIP. 
 
 Mix two ounces of sugar with the juice of a 
 lemon, and pour it into a glass dish. Mix the 
 white of an egg beaten to a froth with a pint 
 of cream and two ounces of castor sugar; whisk 
 it well, then pour it on the sugar and lemon- 
 juice, and serve. 
 
 LEMON, WHOLE, TO KEEP FOR USE. 
 
 Put a layer of dry. fine sand, an inch in depth, 
 at the bottom of an earthen jar. Place a row 
 of lemons upon this, stalks downwards, and be 
 careful that they do not touch each other. 
 Cover them with another layer of sand, fully 
 three inshes in depth, lay on it more lemons, 
 and repeat until the jar is full. Store in a cool 
 dry place. Lemons thus preserved will keep 
 good for a twelvemonth. 
 
 LEMON WINE. 
 
 Put the thin rind of five lemons into a tub. 
 Pour over them a syrup made by boiling four 
 quarts of water with four pounds of sugar for 
 thirty minutes. AVhen quite cold, add the 
 strained juice of ten lemons. Place a toast 
 covered with yeast on the top, and let the 
 liquid stand for a day or two, until fermenta- 
 tion begins, then take out the rind, put the 
 liquor into a cask, and keep it filled up to the 
 top until it has ceased working, when it must 
 be ■ bunged down closely. In three months it 
 will be ready for bottling. If preferred, the 
 peel of the lemon can be omitted. This wine 
 should be made at the beginning of the year, 
 when lemons are cheapest and best. Probable 
 cost, 2s. 6d. Suf&oient for a gallon and a half 
 of wine. 
 
 LEMON WINE, QUICKLY MADE. 
 
 Boil a quart of water with a pound of loaf 
 sugar until the sugar is dissolved, then add half 
 an ounce of citric acid. When the liquid is 
 cool, stir in with a silver spoon twelve drops of 
 essence of lemon and eight drops of spirits of 
 wine. Colour with a little saffron. Time, an 
 hour to prepare. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient 
 for three pints of wine. 
 
 LENTIL CURRY. 
 
 Boil half a pint of lentils in a quart of water 
 until quite soft and pulpy; set them aside. 
 Cut up an onion into thin rings, fry them in an 
 ounce of butter, and add to them a well-prepared 
 curry sauce (see Ctjbbt Sauce.) Then put in the 
 lentils, let it boil for about twenty minutes, 
 and serve with a dish of plain boiled rice. 
 
 LENTIL-FLOUR SOUP. 
 
 Required, two quarts of bone stock, two large 
 cooked potatoes, two ounces of lentil flour (some 
 will like it thicker, then three ounces will be 
 
 needed), a large onion, a carrot, a turnip, and 
 a bunch of herbs, a few peppercorns, a couple 
 of cloves, a table-spoonful of Bovril, a bit of 
 butter and a pinch of sugar. Prepare the vege- 
 tables by slicing the onion and turnip, and grat- 
 ing the carrot, and cook them for a few minutes 
 in the melted butter with the herbs and season- 
 ings. The stock should be skimmed after being 
 brought to the boil, then added, and all boiled 
 until tender enough to strain through a sieve. 
 Mix the lentil flour with cold water to a paste, 
 and add with the potatoes, mashed, and boil up 
 for twenty minutes ; stir the Bovril in, and serve 
 with fried bread or toast. Dried mint is often 
 liked with this, which is a delicious soup, very 
 digestible, and so nourishing that meat at the 
 same meal is superfluous. 
 
 LENTIL PUDDING. 
 
 Take three ounces of fresh lentil flour and 
 two ounces of cornflour, and blend them with a 
 quarter of a pint of milk. Boil a pint of milk 
 and add it to the flour and milk, along with 
 salt, pepper, and powdered herbs to taste. When 
 the mixture is cool whisk in two eggs. Boil 
 for a couple of hours, and serve with a plain 
 white sauce. 
 
 LENTIL RISSOLES. 
 
 Boil a quarter of a pound of lentils till quite 
 tender; mash them, and pass through a wire 
 sieve. Add half an ounce of butter, season with 
 pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and moisten with 
 stock. Roll some pastry as thin as possible, and 
 cut it into rounds; into each put a little of the 
 mixture, fold it over, wet the edges and stick 
 together. Egg and bread-crumb the rissoles, 
 or egg them and sprinkle them with vermicelli 
 broken in tiny pieces. Fry them in deep fat 
 and serve hot. 
 
 LENTILS (k la CrSme). 
 
 Soak half a pint of lentils in cold water for 
 twelve hours. Put them into salted boiling 
 water, and boil them for three hottrs. Strain 
 them, add a quarter of a pint of thick cream, 
 and a seasoning of pepper and salt, simmer for 
 three or four minutes, and serve very hot. 
 
 LENTIL SALAD. 
 
 Take some boiled lentils and let them get 
 quite cold. Drain them with care, and mix 
 them with about a fourth of their weight of 
 cooked onions or celery, or the two mixed. A 
 pile should then be made in the middle of a 
 dish, and some chopped beetroot be put round 
 it. Pour some salad dressing over, and serve. 
 
 LENTILS (4 la Provenfale). 
 
 Boil some lentils (see Lentils, Bollei)) until 
 three-parts done. Drain, and when cold put 
 them in a stewpan with some good oil to keep 
 them moist ; shake the pan now and then. Make 
 a good seasoning of chopped parsley, a shredded 
 onion, and some thyme and other herbs, and add 
 this to the lentils. Shortly before serving add 
 a dash of lemon-juice, and beat in the yolk of 
 an egg to every half a pound of lentils, which 
 must not boil thereafter. 
 
 LENTILS, BOILED. 
 
 There are two varieties of lentils, Egyptian 
 or red lentils, and German or green lentils. 
 
LEN 
 
 375 
 
 LET 
 
 Both are excellent. When lentils are to be 
 used as a vegetable, proceed as follows. Soak 
 a breakfast-cupful of green lentils overnight in 
 plenty of water; next day, drain and throw 
 them into a quart of boiling water, and boil for 
 half an hour, or till tender without being broken. 
 Brain, and return to the saucepan with a slice 
 of butter, pepper, salt, and a tea-spoonful of 
 vinegar. Shake over the fire till hot, and serve 
 immediately. 
 
 LENTILS, BOILED (superior method). 
 
 Boil the lentils as in the last recipe, and 
 drain them. Melt an ounce of butter in a clean 
 stewpan, and fry in it a small onion, very 
 finely chopped. Stir in a tea-spoonful of flour, 
 and mix to a smooth paste. Add boiling stock 
 flavoured with vinegar to make a thick sauce, 
 put in the boiled lentils, and simmer for ten or 
 fifteen minutes. Serve in a tureen. If pre- 
 ferred, the vinegar can be omitted. 
 
 LENTIL SOUP. 
 
 Put a breakfast-cupful of green lentils to soak 
 all night in cold water. Drain them and put 
 them into a stewpan with three pints of water 
 or greasy stock, if it is to be had. The liquor in 
 which pork or bacon has been boiled is excellent 
 for the purpose. Put with tlism six or eight 
 sticks of celery, two onions, one carrot, one 
 turnip, a faggot or bouquet garni, and a crust 
 of stale bread. Bring the liquor to a boil and 
 carefully remove the thick dark scum that rises 
 to the surface, and throw in a little cold water 
 once or twice to assist the scum in rising. As 
 soon as the soup reaches the boiling point, draw 
 the saucepan back and simmer gently for about 
 four hours, or until the lentils are perfectly soft. 
 Turn the whole upon a wire sieve, pick out the 
 bouquet garni, and rub everything else patiently 
 through the sieve into a bowl. The pulp will 
 go through more easily if a little of the liquor 
 is kept hot and is employed to moisten it occa- 
 sionally. Boil the soup again before sending it 
 to table, and if too thick add a little water; the 
 addition of boiling milk will be considered an 
 improvement by many. The soup must be 
 stirred frequently while boiling, or it will burn. 
 Lentils are in themselves so nourishing that 
 meat stock is not needed. 
 
 LENTIL SOUP (k la Soubise). 
 
 To a lentil soup made as above add a puree of 
 onions made as follows. Slice up four large 
 onions, and fry them brown in a little butter, 
 then boil them in some of the broth of the soup 
 till they are tender. Eub them through a wire 
 sieve and add them to the soup. 
 
 LETTUCE. 
 
 There are two sorts of lettuces, the cabbage 
 and the cos. They are chiefly used for salads, 
 but may be also boiled or stewed, and served as 
 a vegetable. They may be had all the year, but 
 are in full season from March to September. 
 
 LETTUCE, BOILED. 
 
 Wash four or five lettuces thoroughly, cut 
 away the thick bitter stalks, but retain all the 
 sound leaves, whether green or white. Boil 
 them ten or fifteen minutes in plenty of salted 
 water, then throw them for a minute into cold 
 w^ter, strain, and chop them lightly. Put them 
 
 into a stewpan with a pint of good white sauce. 
 Season them with salt, pepper, and a quarter of 
 a nutmeg, grated, and simmer gently until quite 
 hot. Draw the saucepan to the side for a min- 
 ute, and stir among the lettuces the well-beaten 
 yolks of two eggs. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 LETTUCE IN SALADS. 
 
 Lettuces which are to be used for salads should 
 be fresh and young. The thick bitter stalk 
 should be cut off, and the outer and decayed 
 leaves removed. The great secret in preparing 
 lettuce for salad is to have it quite dry. In 
 order to ensure this, look the leaves over care- 
 fully. In all probability the white, tender 
 leaves at the heart of the plant will be entirely 
 free from insects and grit. When this is the 
 case, do not plunge them into water, as it only 
 spoils the flavour. Any leaves, however, about 
 which there is the slightest doubt must be scru- 
 pulously washed in two or three waters. When 
 taken out of the water they should be well 
 shaken, placed in a wire basket, and hung for 
 four or five hours in an airy situation. When a 
 basket is not at hand, the lettuce may be divided 
 into small pieces and shaken in a dry cloth until 
 not a particle of moisture remains. The French 
 are careful of cutting them, as they maintain 
 that contact with steel spoils the flavour of the 
 salad. The sauce should never be added until 
 the moment before serving. Probable cost. Id. 
 each. Sufficient, a large lettuce for two or three 
 persons. 
 
 LETTUCE PUREE. 
 
 Put three or four lettuces into a quart of weak 
 stock, with two onions, two carrots, and two 
 ounces of lean bacon cut small; boil for an 
 hour, then rub all through a sieve. Thicken 
 with a little flour and butter, season to taste 
 with pepper and salt, add a dessert-spoonful of 
 Bovril, stir well, and serve with small croutons 
 of bread. 
 
 LETTUCE SALAD (a German recipe;. 
 
 Prepare two large lettuces as above, shred 
 them finely, and put them into the salad bowl. 
 Cut four ounces of bacon into dice, fry these 
 with a finely-minced onion for five or six min- 
 utes, and shake the pan over the fire to prevent 
 them browning. Add to the bacon a little salt 
 (the amount will depend upon the quality of 
 the bacon), half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and 
 a table-spoonful of vinegar ; pour all over the 
 lettuce, and mix thoroughly. Serve immedi- 
 ately. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. 
 
 LETTUCES, BRAISED (au Jus). 
 
 Choose six lettuces of even size, take off ths 
 outside leaves, trim, parboil them, let them cool, 
 and prejs out the water, but preserve their shape. 
 Lay them in a buttered saute-pan, or stewpan, 
 season with salt and pepper, cover with slices of 
 bacon, slices of onion, a few sprigs of parsley, 
 and some savoury herbs. Moisten with stock. 
 Close the lid tightly, and let them cook slowly 
 for an hour and a quarter. Take out the 
 lettuces, drain on a, sieve, shape them neatly, 
 and dish up, with a little thick brown stock 
 strained over. 
 
LET 
 
 376 
 
 LEV 
 
 LETTUCE, STEWED. 
 
 Trim away the outer leaves and the bitter 
 stalks from four good-sized lettuces; wash 
 them carefully, and boil them in plenty of 
 salted water until they are tender. Lift them 
 into a colander, and squeeze the water from 
 them ; chop them slightly, and put them into a 
 clean saucepan with a little pepper and salt and 
 a small piece of butter. Dredge a little flour on 
 them, pour over them three table-spoonfuls of 
 good gravy, and simmer gently for a quarter of 
 an hour, stirring all the time. Squeeze a des- 
 sert-spoonful of vinegar or lemon-juice upon 
 them, and serve as hot as possible, with fried 
 sippets round the dish. Time, altogether, 
 three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 8d. 
 Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 LETTUCE, STEWED, WITH GREEN PEAS. 
 
 Take two good-sized cabbage lettuces, wash 
 them carefully, remove the stalks and the outer 
 and decayed leaves, sprinkle a tea-spoonful of 
 Bait over them, and let them lie in cold water 
 for a couple of hours. Drain them, cut them 
 into slices, and put them into a saucepan, with 
 a, quart of young and freshly-shelled green peas, 
 a piece of butter the size of an egg rolled thickly 
 in flour, an eighth of a pint of good stock, 
 and a little pepper, salt, and pounded sugar. 
 Cover closely, and simmer gently until the 
 peas are soft. Time, half an hour to simmer. 
 Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 LETTUCE, STUFFED. 
 
 Wash four or five large lettuces. Boil them 
 in plenty of sal.ted water for fifteen minutes. 
 Throw them at onoe into cold water, and after- 
 wards let them drain. Open them, fill them 
 with good veal forcemeat, tie the ends secur-ely, 
 and put them into a stewpan with as much good 
 gravy as will cover them, a tea-spoonful of salt, 
 half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and a, tea-spoon- 
 ful of vinegar. Simmer gently for another fif- 
 teen minutes, remove the strings, place them on 
 a hot dish, and pour the gravy round them. If 
 preferred, the lettuces may be prepared as above, 
 and -then put into a braising-pan, with thin 
 slices of bacon above and under them. A carrot, 
 an onion stuck with two cloves, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, and a little good gravy may then be 
 added, and the lettuces simmered gently for an 
 hour and a half. A glassful of sherry may be 
 added to the gravy before it is served. Prob- 
 able cost of the lettuces. Id. each. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. 
 LEVERET, BRAISED. 
 
 Truss the leveret like a hare, and fill it with 
 a forcemeat made as follows. Grate very finely 
 two ounces of stale crumb of bread, season with 
 a salt-spoonful of salt, a salt-spoonful of 
 pounded sugar, half a salt-spoonful of pepper, 
 half a salt-spoonful of finely-minced lemon-rind, 
 and half a salt-spoonful of grated nutmeg ; add 
 a shallot, chopped small, a tea-spoonful of 
 chopped parsley, and half a tea-spoonful of sweet 
 herbs. When these ingredients are thoroughly 
 mixed, work them together with a dessert- 
 spoonful of brandy and two ounces of clarified 
 butter. Pill the leveret with the forcemeat, and 
 sew it up securely. Place two or three slices of 
 
 bacon at the bottom of the braising-pan. Fasten 
 two or three more on the back of the leveret, 
 and put it legs downwards into the pan. Pour 
 over it half a pint of good gravy, and add a 
 small onion, finely minced, a sliced carrot, a 
 glassful of sherry, and two table-spoonfuls of 
 mushroom ketchup. Cover the pan closely, and 
 simmer gently for two hours. Take out the 
 leveret. Press the vegetables through a sieve, 
 put them back into the gravy, thicken it with 
 two tea-spoonfuls of flour, mixed smoothly with 
 a little cold water, return both leveret and 
 gravy to the stewpan, and simmer for about a 
 quarter of an hour longer. Serve very hot. 
 Probable cost of leveret, 4s. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. 
 
 LEVERET, CIVET OF. 
 
 Divide the leveret into neat joints. Cut a 
 quarter of a pound of bacon into inch-square 
 pieces, and fry them; take them up and fry the 
 leveret in the bacon fat. Then take out the 
 leveret, put back the bacon, and add an onion, 
 a shallot, a small carrot, a small turnip, a bunch 
 of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and a bay-leaf. 
 Turn all over in the pan a few times, add the 
 leveret, half a pint of sliced lemon, and as much 
 stock as will cover the meat. Let it come to 
 the boil, then simmer gently for an hour and a 
 half till tender. Add a table-spoonful of flour 
 mixed to a smooth paste with water, and season 
 with pepper and salt. Put the meat on a dish, 
 boil the sauce, skim it, pour a glass of port 
 into it, strain over the leveret, and serve. 
 
 LEVERET, COLD ROAST, WITH POIVRADE 
 SAUCE. 
 
 Divide the remains of a roast leveret into 
 neat pieces, trim them, and put them aside until 
 wanted. Cut an ounce of lean uncooked ham 
 into dice, and take the same quantities of 
 minced onion, carrot, and celery. Put these 
 ingredients into a stewpan with an ounce of 
 butter, and fry them until they are lightly 
 browned. Pour over them three table-spoonfuls 
 of vinegar, a table-spoonful of mushroom ket- 
 chup, and about a tea-spoonful of anchovy 
 sauce ; add half a blade of mace, a tea-spoonful 
 of salt, a salt-spoonful of cayenne, and a bay- 
 leaf. Simmer gently for half an hour, then add 
 half a pint of good brown sauce and a glass of 
 white wine. _ Boil gently, and skim carefully 
 until all the fat has been removed, then strain 
 the sauce, put it back into the stewpan, and let 
 it boil for a few minutes. Put in the pieces of 
 cold leveret, and serve when they are quite hot. 
 The sauce must not boil after the leveret is 
 added. Time, an hour and a half. Probable 
 cost, exclusive of the wine, lOd. Sufficient for 
 four or six persons. 
 LEVERET PUREE. -k 
 
 Take the remains of cold roast or braised 
 leveret. Cut the meat off the bones, remove the 
 skin and sinews, chop it small, and pound it in 
 a mortar. Add gradually, whilst pounding, the 
 remains of the sauce, and press all together 
 through a hair sieve. Like other purees, this 
 may be used for garnishing patties, or it may be 
 made hot with a little reduced stock and sea- 
 soning, and served with mashed potatoes. Time, 
 about an hour to prepare. 
 
LEV 
 
 377 
 
 UN 
 
 LEVERET, ROASTED. 
 
 Leverets may be used when hares are out of 
 season ; they should be trussed in the same way, 
 and may be stuffed or not (with hare stuffing), 
 according to preference. A leveret is best when 
 larded, but if this cannot be done, cover it either 
 with thin slices of fat bacon or with a thickly- 
 buttered piece of white paper. Roast it before 
 a brisk fire, and baste it constantly, and a few 
 minutes before it is taken down remove the 
 bacon or paper, dredge a little flour over it, and 
 froth it nicely. Serve it very hot, and send red 
 currant jelly to table with it as well as the fol- 
 lowing gravy, a-little of which may be put in 
 the dish and the rest in a tureen. Thicken half 
 a pint of stock with a small piece of butter 
 rolled in flour, let it boil for about ten minutes, 
 then stir a wine-glassful of port into it, boil up 
 once more, and serve. Time, an hour to roast 
 the leveret. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 Probable cost, 4s. 
 LIAISONS. 
 
 The various methods for thickening sauces 
 and soups are called liaisons. Those most fre- 
 quently used are composed of flour, ground rice, 
 arrowroot, roux, eggs, and milk. Flour, ground 
 rice, and arrowroot should be mixed very 
 smoothly, first with a little cold liquid, and 
 afterwards with some of the hot liquid. The 
 mixture should then be strained, and poured 
 with one hand into the sauce or soup, which 
 should be at the same time well stirred with the 
 other hand. The soup must be boiled after this 
 preparation is added. Liaison of egg is com- 
 posed of the yolks of eggs only. The liquid 
 should always be cooled for a minute before this 
 liaison is added. The yolks must be well beaten, 
 then mixed with a little of the liquid, and 
 gradually added to the rest, and all stirred to- 
 gether over the fire until quite hot. If allowed 
 to boil, however, after the egg is added, the 
 liquid will curdle. Two or three spoonfuls 'of 
 milk or cream are sometimes added to the egg. 
 For liaison of roux, see Eoux, Brown and 
 White. A liaison of butter is used to enrich 
 rather than to thicken sauces. It should be 
 stirred in cold at the last moment, and on no 
 account allowed to boil. 
 LIME. 
 
 The lime is a variety of the lemon, but is 
 much smaller, being only gtbout an inch or an 
 inch and a half in diameter. Its cultivation in 
 Europe is by no means extensive, but in the 
 West Indies it is held in high esteem, being 
 more acid and cooling than the lemon. Lime 
 punch is there considered superior to any 
 other. 
 
 LIME CREAM. 
 
 Put the thin rind oi four limes and a pint of 
 cream in a saucepan with half an ounce of 
 isinglass and six ounces of loaf sugar. Stir well 
 over the fire, and let all dissolve without boil- 
 ing. Then add anotlier half pint of cream, and 
 strain into a, basin; when nearly cold add 
 slowly the strained juice of the fruit. Stir well 
 again, and when the mixture thickens and is on 
 the point of setting pour it into an oiled or 
 wetted mould. Turn out when cold, and decor- 
 ate with crystallised fruits. 
 
 LIME JELLY. 
 
 Take half a pint of lime-juice, half a pint of 
 water, three-quarters of an ounce of sheet gela- 
 tine, and three ounces of sugar. Put these in- 
 gredients over the fire until the gelatine is quite 
 dissolved, then strain through a jelly-bag, and 
 finish off as for ordinary jelly. 
 
 LIME PUDDING. 
 
 Beat the yolks of two eggs until thick and 
 light coloured. Whip the whites of three eggs 
 to a stiff froth, then gradually beat in one- 
 third of a cupful of powdered sugar till the 
 mixture is stiff and glossy. Add the grated 
 rind of one lime and one tea-spoonful of lime- 
 juice, a pinch of salt, and the beaten yolks. 
 Mix together lightly, sprinkle over one-third of 
 a cupful of flour, and mix it in as lightly as 
 possible. Put into a baking-dish, and bake a 
 delicate brown. Cost, 6d. to Is. 
 
 LIMES, TO PRESERVE. 
 
 Take half a dozen limes ; make three or four 
 slight cuts in the rind of each, rub them well 
 with two ounces of salt, and put them in a 
 warm place, turning them occasionally, until 
 they are softened, which will be in about five 
 days. Boil as much vinegar as will cover them, 
 with a quarter of a pound of mustard-seed, a 
 quarter of a pound of bruised ginger, and one 
 ounce of whole pepper, to each quart. Put 
 the softened limes with the salt, etc., into a 
 jar; pour the boiling vinegar upon them, and 
 let them stand for twenty-four hours. Tie a 
 skin over the top, and store in a cool, dry 
 place. 
 
 LIMES, TO PRESERVE (another way). 
 
 Take a dozen limes, weigh them, and put 
 aside double their weight in loaf sugar. Boil 
 them in two or three waters until the rind is 
 sufficiently tender for a fork or skewer to pierce 
 it easily. Drain them, cut them into thin slices, 
 carefully removing the pips, and put them into 
 a deep jar. Boil the sugar to a clear syrup, and 
 put half a pint of water with every pound and 
 a quarter of sugar. Pour this syrup, when boil- 
 ing, over the fruit; let it remain for two days. 
 Turn the whole into a preserving-pan, boil for 
 a quarter of an. hour, then put the fruit into 
 jars. Cover these securely, and be careful to 
 store them in a cool, dry place. 
 
 LING. 
 
 Ling is a fish of the same species as hake, and, 
 like that fish, is both cheap and nourishing. It 
 is a native of the northern seas. In form it is 
 not unlike the cod, but it is more slender, and 
 grows to the length of six or seven feet. Its. 
 colour is gray, inclining to olive; the belly, 
 silvery; the fins, edged with white. The tail- 
 fin is rounded. The ling is a very voracious fish, 
 feeding principally on smaller fishes. It is cap- 
 tured in vast quantities off the Orkney, Shet- 
 land, and Western Islands, and is also found 
 near the Scilly Islands, and off Flamborough 
 Head. It is in perfection from- February to 
 the end of May. When boiled it is insipid, but 
 when fried or baked is both palatable and 
 wholesome. A very good pie may also be made 
 from it. 
 
LIN 
 
 378 
 
 LIT 
 
 LING, BAKED. 
 
 Cut four pounds of ling into slices, and put 
 these into a baking-dish. Dredge well with 
 flour, and sprinkle over them two tea-spoonfuls 
 of salt, halt a tea-spoonful of white pepper, and 
 half a tea-spoonful of pounded mace. Divide 
 three ounces of fresh butter into small pieces, 
 and place these here and there upon the fish. 
 Eub a table-spoonful of flour smoothly into half 
 a pint of milk ; pour this over the fish, and bake 
 in a moderate oven. Serve on a hot dish, and 
 garnish with toasted sippets. Time to bake, 
 one hour. Probable cost. Is. Sd. Sufficient for 
 half a dozen persons. 
 
 LING, FRIED. 
 
 Take two pounds of fresh ling, cut it into 
 slices three-quarters of an inch thick, rub these 
 over with pepper and salt, dredge a little fiour 
 over them, and fry in boiling fat. Parsley and 
 butter, or lemon and liver sauce may be served 
 with them. Time to fry, ten minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, lOd. Sufficient for three persons. 
 
 LING PIE, 
 
 Take three or four pounds of the thin part of 
 a salt ling, wash it in two or three waters, and 
 let it soak for a couple of hours; then put it 
 into a fish-kettle, with as much water as will 
 cover it, and let it boil slowly until done 
 enough. Take off the skin, and put layers of 
 the fish into a pie-dish, with four hardrboiled 
 eggs cut into slices, a little chopped parsley, 
 two tea-spoonfuls of salt, half a tea-spoonful of 
 cayenne, and half a tea-spoonful of pounded 
 mace strewn amongst them. Add three ounces 
 of fresh butter divided into small pieces; pour 
 over the fish a quarter of a pint of gravy. Line 
 the edges of the dish with a good crust, place 
 a cover of the same over the top, brush it over 
 with egg, and bake in a brisk oven. Before 
 serving pour a cupful of warm cream into the 
 pie. Time to bake, about one hour and a half. 
 Probable cost of ling, 4d. per pound. Sufficient 
 for six or seven persons. 
 
 LING, SLICES OF, STEWED. 
 
 Cut about one pound of fresh ling into slices 
 nearly three-quarters of an inch thick, rub them 
 over with pepper and salt, and fry them in boil- 
 ing fat for about ten minutes. Place them in a 
 stewpan, and cover them with a little stock. 
 Put with them a sprig of parsley, a stick of 
 celery, a quarter of a blade of mace, a quarter 
 of a tea-spoonful of white pepper, and a small 
 piece of thin lemon-rind, and simmer gently 
 for half an hour. Put the slices on a hot dish, 
 and after straining the gravy, and thickening 
 with flour and butter, pour it boiling over them. 
 Serve as hot as possible. A tea-spoonful of 
 lemon-juice may be added or not. Probalile 
 cost, 8d. Sufficient for two persons. 
 
 LINSEED. 
 
 This is the seed of the flax plant. It is small, 
 oval, oblong, acute at the extremities, glossy, 
 and brown. Internally it is white. The taste 
 of linseed is mucilaginous and oily. The in- 
 fusion of linseed in boiling water yields a 
 demulcent mucilage, which is much used as a 
 domestic medicine in coughs (see Linseed Tea). 
 The linseed should not be boiled in the water, as 
 
 that extracts the oil contained in the linseed as 
 well as the mucilage, and renders the decoction 
 nauseating. 
 
 LINSEED TEA (Invalid Cookery:. 
 
 Put an ounce of linseed into a jug, pour over 
 it a pint of boiling water, cover closely, and let 
 it stand for half an hour. Pour it into another 
 jug, and serve either hot or cold. Half an ounce 
 of Spanish liquorice may be put with the linseed 
 if the tea be wanted for anyone with a cough. 
 Sufficient for one person. 
 
 LIQUEURS. 
 
 The name " liqueur " is applied to any alco- 
 holic preparation flavoured, perfumed, or 
 sweetened so as to be more agreeable to the 
 taste. These preparations are very numerous; 
 the following are amongst the principal: — 
 Absinthe, which is spirit sweetened and fla- 
 voured with the young tops of a species of 
 artemisia. Aniseed cordial, made by imparting 
 to weak spirit the flavour of aniseed, coriander, 
 and sweet fennel seed, and sweetening it with 
 a highly-clarified syrup of refined sugar. Clove 
 cordial, fiavoured with bruised cloves, and 
 coloured with burnt sugar. Cura9oa, for which 
 the reader will find a recipe under its proper 
 heading. Kirschwasser is made in Germany and 
 Switzerland from cherry-juice fermented. The 
 name signifies cherry-water. Large quantities 
 are manufactured in the Black Forest. This 
 liqueur always contains some prussic acid from 
 the cherry-stones, and sometimes so much as to 
 be almost poisonous. In Ktimmel, or Doppel- 
 Kiimmel, we have the chief liqueur of Russia. 
 It is prepared in the usual way with sweetened 
 spirit, flavoured with cumin and caraway-seeds, 
 the latter being generally so largely employed 
 as to conceal any other flavour. Maraschino is 
 distilled from bruised cherries. The wild fruit 
 is not used, but a delicately-flavoured variety 
 grown only in Dalmatia. Noyau, or Creme de 
 Noyau, is a sweet cordial flavoured with bitter 
 almonds (bruised). Peppermint is a common 
 liqueur, much in demand amongst the lower 
 classes in the metropolis. Generally it consists 
 of ordinary sweetened gin, flavoured with the 
 essential oil of peppermint, which is previously 
 rubbed up with refined sugar, to enable it to 
 mix with the very weak spirit. In a more re- 
 fined form it is known as Creme de Menthe. 
 
 LIQUORICE AND LIQUORICE ROOT. 
 
 Liquorice is a long creeping root, procured 
 from a plant of the pod-bearing tribe. It is cul- 
 tivated in England, but is a native chiefly of 
 Spain and of Southern Europe. The extract of 
 the root is known as " black sugar," " stick 
 liquorice," " Spanish juice," or " hard extract of 
 liquorice." It forms the basis of several kinds 
 of lozenges, and is added generally to soothing 
 drinks. It is employed, as everyone knows, as 
 a demulcent remedy in coughs and other com- 
 plaints. Even when used in considerable quan- 
 tity it does not disorder the stomach, or even 
 create thiirst like common sugar. 
 
 LITTLE LADIES' TART (a pretty dish for a. Juvenile 
 
 party) 
 
 Rub four ounces of fresh butter into half a 
 
 pound of flour. Add a pinch of salt, three ounces 
 
 of pounded sugar, and three well-beaten eggs. 
 
LIT 
 
 379 
 
 LIV 
 
 Work these ingredients into a firm paste, and 
 roll it out three or four times, dredging lightly 
 with flour to prevent it sticking to the board, 
 Make it into a round shape, about a quarter of 
 Eu inch in thickness, ornament the outside edge 
 with a fork or spoon, put it on an oven plate, 
 and bake in a quick oven. When sufficiently 
 cooked, take it out and let it cool. Just before 
 serving, spread lightly over it different coloured 
 jellies and jams, laid in strips from the centre 
 like the spokes of a wheel. Time, about twenty- 
 five minutes to bake. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 LITTLE MARY'S CUP PUDDINGS. 
 
 Grate the rind of a large fresh lemon upon 
 two ounces of finely-sifted sugar. Mix a dessert- 
 spoonful of the juice with half a pint of cold 
 water. Dissolve the sugar in this over the fire ; 
 add a quarter of a pound of butter, and a wine- 
 glassful of sherry, or any other light wine, and 
 when the butter is melted, pour the mixture out 
 to cool. Mix four ounces of flour very smoothly 
 with three well-beaten eggs, add the cooled 
 liquid very gradually, and stir the batter over 
 the fire for three minutes. Take some well- 
 buttered cups, three-parts fill them with the 
 mixture, and bake in a quick oven. Turn the 
 puddings out of the cups before serving, and 
 sift a little powdered sugar over them. Time to 
 bake, half an houj. Probable cost, exclusive of 
 the wine, lOd. Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 LIVER AND BACON. 
 
 Cut half a pound of bacon into thin rashers, 
 and one pound of calf's liver into slices the 
 third of an inch thick. Fry both sides of the 
 bacon brown; place it round a dish before the 
 fire. Dredge flour on both sides of the liver ; fry 
 it slowly till brown, and place it on the dish. 
 Pour away the fat, dredge a dessert-spoonful of 
 dry flour into the frying-pan ; pour in a gill of 
 boiling water, add a dash of pepper and half a, 
 salt-spoonful of salt, shake the pan till the gravy 
 thickens and browns, pour it over the liver and 
 bacon, and serve at once. 
 
 LIVER AND HAM, FORCEMEAT OF, FOR RAISED 
 PIES,* ETC. 
 
 Take half a pound of calf s liver, and half a 
 pound of fat bacon. Cut the meat into one-inch 
 squares, and fry them lightly, putting in the 
 bacon first, and when it is half done adding the 
 liver. Season with a small tea-spoonful of her- 
 baceous seasoning and a little salt. When the 
 liver is half cooked, take it and the bacon up, 
 drain them from the fat, mince finely, then 
 pound them in a mortar to a smooth paste, pass 
 this through a coarse sieve, and put the force- 
 meat aside for use. Probable cost, 9d. per 
 pound. 
 
 LIVER AND KIDNEY PUDDING. 
 
 (See KiDNBT AND LiVEB Pudding.) 
 LIVER AND LEMON SAUCE FOR FOWLS. 
 
 (See Lemon and Liver Sauce.) 
 
 LIVER AND PARSLEY SAUCE. 
 
 Take the liver of a fowl or rabbit — be careful 
 that it is perfectly fresh — ^wash it, and boil it 
 for five ininutes in a quarter of a pint of water. 
 Mince it very finely, pound it in a mortar, and 
 mix with it a, table-spoonful of scalded and 
 
 chopped parsley. Stir both into a quarter of 
 a pint of good melted butter. Let the sauce 
 remain on the fire until it is quite hot, but it 
 must not boil. Time, one minute to heat the 
 sauce. Probable cost, 2d. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. 
 
 LIVER, BRAISED. 
 
 Wash and dry the liver of a calf, sheep, or 
 lamb, and season it with pepper, grated lemon 
 peel, and powdered herbs. Put some sliced vege- 
 tables in a stewpan to form a bed; cover with 
 slices of bacon, lay the liver on, and put more 
 bacon on the top of that; put on the lid, and let 
 it cook for ten minutes. Add plain stock to half 
 the depth of the pan, put a greased paper over, 
 replace the lid, then cook in a gentle oven or on 
 top of the range. When done, dish the liver, 
 brush it with glaze, and put it in a puree of 
 vegetables, or whole mushrooms laid on a hot 
 dish ; garnish with vegetables separately cooked. 
 Skim and reduce the gravy, pour a little over the 
 liver, and serve the rest in a tureen. Probable 
 cost, 9d. per pound. 
 
 LIVER, CURRIED. 
 
 Cut the liver into suitable sized pieces, and 
 cook in a good curry sauce (sec Cuebt Sauce). 
 Serve with boiled rice and fried onions. A mix- 
 ture of liver and kidney makes a nice curry, but 
 the kidney must be cooked longer than the liver. 
 
 LIVER CUTLETS. 
 
 Fry in a little butter a quarter of a pound of 
 lean ham or bacon, then half a pound of calf's 
 liver ; cut the liver into thick slices, then mince 
 all very finely, adding one ounce of fine bread- 
 crumbs, a table-spoonful of dried herbs, pepper 
 and salt to taste, a mushroom chopped fine, and 
 a tea-cupful of good brown gravy. Shape the 
 mixture into small cutlets, brush over with egg 
 and crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. Drain, 
 place a tiny piece of macaroni at the end of 
 each to imitate a bone, and serve very hot. 
 
 LIVER, DEVILLED. 
 
 Chop up one pound of calf's liver, and three 
 ounces of pickled pork ; add a pinch of grated 
 cloves and nutmeg, a small salt-spoonful of 
 cayenne, the same of black pepper, a large tea- 
 spoonful of salt, a grate of lemon-peel, and a 
 half-pint of bread-crumbs. Moisten with a 
 table-spoonful of port wine. Press all down 
 tightly in a jar with a lid, set it in a saucepan 
 with boiling water to three-parts cover it, and 
 let the water boil for two hours. Then take it 
 up, remove the lid, let it cool, turn it out, and 
 serve cold in thin slices. Or the liver may be 
 sliced, brushed over with mustard and chutney, 
 sprinkled with cayenne, dipped in melted butter, 
 and grilled or broiled at a clear fire. 
 
 LIVER, FAT RAGOUT OF. 
 
 Take the livers of two large fat geese. Re- 
 move the gall-bag, taking care that no yellow 
 spots are left near the place where it was, then 
 lay the livers in milk for some hours to whiten 
 them. Put them into a stewpan, and cover them 
 with equal parts of good gravy stock and light 
 wine. Put with them a bunch of parsley, two 
 sliced shallots, a tea-spoonful of bruised pepper 
 and ginger mixed, four bruised cloves,, a bay- 
 leaf, and a little salt. It is probable that very 
 
LIV 
 
 380 
 
 LIV 
 
 little of the last-named ingredient will be re- 
 quired^ as the gravy and stock will doubtless 
 contain salt sufficient. Cover the saucepan 
 closely, and simmer gently. When the livers 
 are done enough, drain them from the liquid, 
 and reduce the latter by rapid boiling to the con- 
 sistency of sauce. This ragoiit may cither be 
 used as a garnish, or it may be served as a 
 separate dish. When the latter is the case, the 
 livers should be placed upon a dish, and the 
 yolks of two eggs beaten up with a quarter of a 
 pint of cream should be added to the reduced 
 liquid, and poured over them. Time to sim- 
 mer the livers, a quarter of an hour. Probable 
 cost uncertain, livers being generally bought 
 with the geese. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 LIVER, FORCEMEAT OF. 
 
 (See FoECEMEAT or Liveb.) 
 
 LIVER, FRIED. 
 
 Cut one pound of liver into slices, a quarter 
 of an inch in thickness, and dredge some flour 
 over them. Take an equal number of slices of 
 bacon, fat and lean together. Pry the bacon 
 first, and when it is done enough, draw the 
 rashers from the fat, and place them on a hot 
 dish. Fry the slices of liver in the same fat, and 
 when lightly browned on both sides, dish bacon 
 and liver in a circle, a. slice of each alternately. 
 Pour away the fat, and dredge a little flour into 
 the pan. Add a quarter of a pint of broth, 
 a little salt and pepper, and a, table-spoonful of 
 mushroom ketchup. Stir smoothly together 
 until the sauce boils, and pour it into the dish 
 with the liver. Garnish with sliced lemon. If 
 liked, a table-spoonful of flnely-minced gherkins 
 or pickled walnuts may be added to the sauce. 
 Time, a quarter of an hour to fry the liver. 
 Probable cost, 9d. per pound. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. 
 
 LIVER, FRIED (another way). 
 
 Take one pound of fresh liver, and a few 
 rashers of bacon. Cut the liver into neat slices, 
 a quarter of an inch thick, and dip each slice 
 in a mixture made of one table-spoonful of flour, 
 one tea-spoonful of salt, and one of pepper. 
 Cover the bottom of the frying-pan with some 
 clear dripping, about a quarter of an inch in 
 depth. Place the pan on the fire, and when 
 the dripping ceases hissing, put in the liver and 
 bacon. The bacon will be done first; remove 
 it, and in five minutes turn the liver. When 
 the latter is done enough, dish it with the bacon, 
 and serve very hot. A little sauce may be made 
 as in the last recipe. Time, a quarter of an 
 hour. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for two 
 or three persons. 
 
 LIVER KLOSSE. 
 
 Take a large slice of the <*umb of a stale loaf. 
 Pour half a pint of milk over it, and let it soak 
 for half an hour. Press the liquid from it, and 
 mix with it half a pound of finely-minced raw 
 liver, the grated rind of half a small lemon, two 
 table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, one of 
 chives, and a little pepper and salt. Dredge a 
 table-spoonful of flour over these ingredients, 
 and stir in two well-beaten eggs. Make the 
 mixture up into egg-shaped klosse, drop them 
 into boiling water or broth, and boil them until 
 (lone enough. Before serving, fry two ounces of 
 
 chopped bacon in a little butter, and pour this 
 over the klosse. If any pieces of liver remain, 
 they may be sliced, dipped into beaten egg and 
 bread-crumbs, and fried in hot fat. Time to 
 boil, about half an hour. Probable cost, lOd. 
 Sufficient for four persons. 
 LIVER PUDDINGS. 
 
 Take half an ox liver; clear it from skin, boil, 
 and grate it. Mix with it its bulk in bread- 
 crumbs, and finely-shredded suet. Season rather 
 highly with black pepper; add a little salt, 
 grated nutmeg, and a glassful of rum. Have 
 the pudding skins well cleaned, tie one end, and 
 turn them inside out. Half fill them with the 
 mixture, and tie them in three or four places at 
 equal distances. Put them into water which is 
 nearly on the point of boiling. In five minutes 
 prick them with a large darning needle to pre- 
 vent them bursting, and let them boil for half 
 an hour. Liver sausages should be kept in a 
 cool place until wanted for use. Before serving, 
 boil for a quarter of an hour, and then broil 
 them. Probable cost, exclusive of the rum, 
 2s. 6d. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. 
 
 LIVER SAUCE FOR FISH. 
 
 Stew the liver until quite tender in some of the 
 gravy in which the fish was boiled. Mince it 
 finely, and pound it in a mortar with half a tea- 
 spoonful of dry mustard. Thicken half a pint 
 of gravy with a small piece of butter rolled in 
 flour ; add the liver, some salt, and a tea-spoon- 
 ful of chilli vinegar. Let all boil up once, and 
 serve. Time, a quarter of an hour to boil the 
 liver. Sufficient for four or six persons. Prob- 
 able cost, 3d. 
 
 LIVER SAUCE FOR ROAST HARE. 
 
 Be sure that the liver is quite sweet. Wash 
 it in two or three waters, and stew it in a quarter 
 of a pint of good beef gravy, then mince it flnely, 
 and with it a clove of shallot, two table-spoon- 
 fuls of picked parsley, and a quarter of a tea- 
 spoonful of thyme. Return the liver to the 
 saucepan; let all boil up 'together. Then add a 
 tea-spoonful of chilli vinegar, two table-spoon- 
 fuls of currant jelly, and two of port. This 
 sauce may be used for roast rabbit, if a glassful 
 of sherry be substituted for the port and jelly. 
 Serve immediately. Time, a quarter of an hour 
 to boil the liver. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient 
 for six persons. 
 
 LIVER SAUSAGES. 
 
 Take a pig's liver, uncookea. Mince finely, 
 bruise it, and afterwards rub it through a 
 colander. Mix with it half its weight in boiled 
 pork, finely minced, and add half a pound of fat 
 bacon chopped small. Season rather highly with 
 salt, pepper, and powdered cloves. Three^parts 
 fill some thick skins with the mixture; put them 
 into boiling salt and water, and let them simmer 
 very gently. A little pounded onion or powdered 
 sage may be added, if the flavour is liked. The 
 sausages may be eaten either cold with bread 
 and butter, or hot. It eaten hot they do not 
 require boiling before they are fried. Time, half 
 an hour to simmer. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 LIVER SAUSAGES, MECKLENBURG, SMOKED. 
 
 Take one pound of the cuttings of pork, and 
 one pound of sward, or the skin of the pig cut 
 
LIV 
 
 381 
 
 LOB 
 
 from the loins. The tongue and kidneys, and a 
 little fat may he added, if liked. Cut the meat 
 into slices, and boil all gently in as little water 
 as possible until quite tender. The sward should 
 be put upon the fire before the rest of the meat, 
 as it will require much longer boiling. Mince 
 all very finely, and mix in the raw liver, which 
 has been chopped and bruised and pressed 
 through a coarse sieve. Season rather highly 
 with salt, pepper, and half a dozen powdered 
 cloves. Pour over the mince the fat which has 
 risen to the top of the liquid in which the meat 
 was boiled, and add, if approved, either a 
 bruised shallot or a tea-spoonful of powdered or 
 grated lemon-rind. When filling th? skins, re- 
 member to leave room for swelling, and simmer 
 the sausages gently in the same liquid in which 
 the meat was boiled. The liver sausages may be 
 used fresh or smoked as preferred. If smoked, 
 two days will be long enough for them to hang. 
 Time to boil large skins, one hour; small skins, 
 half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for 
 eight or ten persons. 
 
 LIVER SOUP, BROWN. 
 
 Put into a saucepan a slice of bacon, an 
 onion, some cloves and black peppercorns, a 
 pound of lean minced beef, and an ounce of 
 grated carrot. Fry for a minute, then pour in 
 water to cover, and simmer until the moisture 
 has nearly dried up. Then pour in three 
 pints of stock made from bones, and cook 
 gently for an hour or two. Press the meat, etc., 
 from time to time, then strain the soup off, and 
 put to it six ounces of calf's liver that has been 
 fried and pounded and seasoned with salt, black 
 pepper, nutmeg, and powdered herbs. Add a 
 little brown roux, boil the whole up, and serve 
 with strips from a French roll dipped in hot 
 butter and crisped in the oven. 
 
 LOACH. 
 
 The loach is a small fish, usually about three 
 inches long, with a round body, and six wattles 
 or barbs at its mouth. In Scotland it is known 
 as the beardie. It is not very common, but is 
 met with occasionally in small brooks and 
 rivulets. The use it is chiefly put to is to serve 
 as bait for eels and perch, but it is worthy of 
 being brought under the cook's notice. It is 
 delicious fried in batter, or egged and bread- 
 crumbed. 
 
 LOAF CAKE. 
 
 Mix one pound and a half of flour with three- 
 quarters of a pound of moist sugar; add an 
 ounce of caraway-seeds, and eight well-beaten 
 eggs. Mix thoroughly one table-spoonful of 
 yeast, a table-spoonful of milk, and a table- 
 spoonful of water and stir these into the cake. 
 Pat the mixture on one side a little time, and 
 when it is risen mould it ligfhtly; put it into 
 a well-buttered tin, and bake in a moderate oven 
 for about two hours. Probable cost. Is. Suf- 
 ficient for eight or ten persons. 
 
 LOAF CAKE, FOR LUNCHEON, ETC. 
 
 Beat half a pound of fresh butter to a cream. 
 Mix with it six ounces of moist sugar and six 
 well-beaten eggs. Add one pound of flour, three 
 table-spoonfuls of rose-water, one table-spoonful 
 of finely-chopped lemon-rind, one small nutmeg, 
 grated, half a tea-spoonful of powdered cinna- 
 
 mon, a dessert-spoonful of dissolved carbonate 
 of potash, and a small tea-cupful of milk. Beat 
 all thoroughly. Line an earthen cake-mould 
 with buttered paper, pour in the mixture, and 
 bake in a moderate oven for about two hours. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for eight or 
 ten persons. 
 LOAF CAKE OF INDIAN MEAL. 
 
 Eub four ounces of fresh butter into one pound 
 of Indian meal. Pour over it aa much boiling 
 milk as will make it into a thick batter, and 
 when this is cool stir into it two well-beaten 
 eggs. Stone a quarter of a pound of raisins. 
 Wash, pick, and dry a quarter of a pound of 
 currants. Dredge over them aa much fine flour 
 as will adhere to them, and stir them into the 
 batter, and afterwards atir in aix ounces of 
 moist sugar. Pour the mixture into a well- 
 buttered mould, and bake in a moderate oven 
 for two hours. Probable cost, la. Sufficient for 
 half a dozen persons. 
 LOBSCOUSE. 
 
 Boil some potatoes and mash them in the 
 saucepan ; chop some lean cooked salt beef very 
 fine — tinned corned beef will do — and add it to 
 the potatoes, with a small piece of butter and 
 a litle milk; season with pepper, salt, and 
 nutmeg. Beat all together over the fire with a 
 wooden spoon until it is smooth and creamy, 
 and serve very hot on a hot dish. 
 
 LOBSTER. 
 
 This shell fish is in season from the beginning 
 of April to the end of October, so that during 
 these months it supplies to some extent the 
 place of the oyster. It is highly esteemed, and 
 may be served in various ways. Medium-sized 
 lobsters are the best for eating, and very small 
 ones, which are the cheapest, may be used for 
 sauce. The flesh of the male, or cock lobster 
 as it is termed, is more delicate than that of 
 the hen, and its shell assumes a brighter red 
 after boiling. The hen is valued, however, on 
 account of the spawn, which is used for making 
 sauce, and the coral for garnishing aalada, etc. 
 The common lobster sometimes weighs as much 
 as ten or twelve pounds when loaded with spawn, 
 but a lobster of one pound weight, or even less, 
 is considered fit for the market. When boiled, 
 its beautifully clouded and varied bluish-black 
 turns to a nearly uniform red. Lobsters are 
 certainly nutritive, but not so much so as is 
 commonly supposed. Not being easily digested, 
 they require condiments, of which the most 
 proper are those most frequently used, namely, 
 vinegar and pepper. On some constitutions 
 lobsters have a pernicious effect, and occasion 
 eruptions of the skin and other distressing 
 symptoms of derangement. Great care should 
 be taken that they are in good condition, and 
 quite fresh. When stale, they are unwholesome 
 in a high degree. 
 LOBSTER (4 I'Americaine). 
 
 Break the tails off one or two raw lobsters, 
 cut the body shell in two, take off the legs, and 
 cut the meat in equal-sized slices. Now put 
 one or two spoonfuls of oil into a saucepan and 
 heat it well; add the pieces of lobster, and 
 brown over a clear fire. When half done add 
 some carrots, onions, and garlic cut in small 
 
LOB 
 
 382 
 
 LOB 
 
 dice. Continue to brown a little, then moisten 
 with a glass of white wine, season with pepper 
 and salt and a pinch of cayenne ; add a spoonful 
 of tomato sauce and a bouquet garni, put the 
 lid on the saucepan, and cook from ten to fif- 
 teen minutes, shaking the lobster occasionally. 
 Add a small glass of brandy, and thin the sauce 
 with a spoonful of stock. Take out the bouquet 
 garni, and place the rest on a hot dish wij;h the 
 sauce poured over. Squeeze a few drops of 
 lemon-juice over, and serve hot. 
 
 LOBSTER {k la Carlton). 
 
 Divide in two parts lengthwise a fine, live 
 lobster, slightly crush the claws, remove the 
 queen (i.e. a little bag near the head containing 
 some gravel), put the spawn aside in a plate, 
 and work it up with the aid of a fork with two 
 ounces of fresh butter, a little cayenne pepper, 
 a tea-spoonful of parsley, chervil, and tarragon 
 chopped together very finely, the juice_ of a 
 lemon, and two spoonfuls of sauce piquant (see 
 Lobster, Satjce Piquant for). Broil the 
 divided parts of the lobster, put them on a very 
 hot silver dish, the flesh side upward, coyer up 
 with the above mixture, pour a gill of liqueur 
 brandy round, and set alight when entering the 
 room. 
 LOBSTER (k la Cecil). 
 
 Take all the meat from the shell of one fresh 
 lobster, and cut it into pieces an inch square. 
 Melt an ounce of butter in a stewpan, then stir 
 a table-spoonful of flour smoothly into it, and 
 add a quarter of a pint of cream and the same 
 of stock. Stir this sauce over the fire until it 
 boils, then put in the pieces of lobster and make 
 it very hot. Arrange the mixture in a hot dish, 
 with a ring of chopped parsley round the 
 base. Probable cost, 2s. 8d. Sufficient for six 
 persons. 
 
 LOBSTER {k la Crime). 
 
 Pick the meat from a large freshly-boiled cock 
 lobster, mince it finely, and put it into a sauce- 
 pan with half a tea-spoonful of salt, a tea- 
 spoonful of white pepper, the eighth of a nut- 
 meg, grated, two tea-spoonfuls of vinegar, and 
 one of light wine. When quite hot, put with 
 it two ounces of fresh butter, lightly rolled in 
 flour, and a quarter of a pint of thick cream. 
 Simmer gently for ten minutes, stirring all the 
 time, and when thoroughly heated put the mix- 
 ture into the shell of the lobster, place it on 
 a neatly-folded napkin, and garnish with 
 parsley. Probable cost of lobster, 2s. to 3s. 
 Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 LOBSTER (,k la Franjaise). 
 
 Pick the flesh from a medium-sized fresh 
 lobster, and cut it into small dice. Stir two 
 table-spoonfuls of cream into a quarter of a 
 pint of white stock, season with a little salt, 
 cayenne, and pounded mace, put it into a stew- 
 pan with the lobster, and let it simmer very 
 gently. Scrape the shell, and put it upon a 
 dish with a border of puff paste round it. Pour 
 the mixture into this, cover rather thickly with 
 fine bread-crumbs, and brown it by holding 
 over it an iron shovel which has been made red- 
 hot. Time, to simmer five or six minutes. Prob- 
 able cost of medium-sized lobster. Is. 6d., when 
 in full season. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 LOBSTER AND OYSTER PIE. 
 
 Pick the meat from the tails of two freshly- 
 boiled lobsters, and cut it into neat pieces, 
 which must be seasoned with a little pepper, 
 salt, and pounded mace. Bruise the sheMs and 
 spawn, and make a little gravy from them. 
 Pound the flesh from the claws and bodies to a 
 smooth paste, mix with it a slice of bread, finely 
 grated, six ounces of fresh butter, three table- 
 spoonfuls of vinegar, and a little pepper, salt, 
 and nutmeg. Line the edges and sides of a pie- 
 dish with good puff paste. Put in the slices of 
 lobster, then two dozen oysters with their liquid, 
 and afterwards the pounded meat. Lay the 
 cover over all, and bake in a moderate oven 
 for an hour and a quarter. Before serving, 
 strain a little of the gravy from the shells into 
 the pie. When the pastry is cooked enough the 
 pie is done. Probable cost of lobsters. Is. 6d. 
 each. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. 
 
 LOBSTER AND PRAWN SOUP. 
 
 Make two quarts of stock from the shell of a 
 fresh lobster and the heads and shells of thirty 
 or forty prawns ; flavour it with herbs and vege- 
 tables, skim well, and strain. Put it in a 
 saucepan with enough white roux to thipken it 
 to the consistency of cream. When well 
 skimmed, put in the shelled prawns and the 
 white meat of the lobster, shredded, the claws 
 cut into small pieces, and salt, cayenne pepper, 
 and a few drops of cochineal. Cover and leave 
 for five minutes, then put in some lemon-juice 
 and a few drops of anchovy essence, a gill of 
 hot cream, and the coral of the lobster. Do not 
 let it boil again. (See also Prawn and Lobster 
 Soup.) 
 
 LOBSTER (au Gratin). 
 
 Take all the meat out of two large lobsters 
 (putting aside the coral and spawn, which can 
 be used for garnishing), mince it very fine, then 
 pound it in a mortar with a wine-glassful of 
 cream, two ounces of butter, and cayenne 
 pepper and salt to taste. When thoroughly 
 smooth fill the head and tail shells with the 
 mixture, cover over with fine bread-crumbs, then 
 small pieces of butter, and heat in a moderate 
 oven for fifteen minutes, adding a little butter 
 from time to time. Arrange artistically on a 
 serviette on a silver dish, sprinkle a little coral 
 over, and garnish with parsley. 
 
 LOBSTER, BAKED (or Lobster a la Braise}. 
 
 Take the flesh of a large fresh hen lobster, 
 chop it small, then pound it in a mortar, and 
 mix with it a quarter of a small nutmeg, grated, 
 three grains of cayenne, half a saltspoonful of 
 salt, two table-spoonfuls of fine bread-crumbs, 
 and two well-beaten eggs. Shape the mixture 
 with the hands into its original form. Pound 
 the coral and spawn, and lay them on the meat ; 
 then bake in a quick oven. Before serving, put 
 the shell, tail, and small claws upon the meat 
 in such a way as to make it have the appearance 
 of an undressed lobster. Bake a quarter of an 
 hour. Probable cost of a medium-sized lobster, 
 when in full season. Is. 6d. Sufficient for six or 
 seven persons. 
 
 LOBSTER BALLS. 
 
 Pick the meat from a large freshly-boiled hen 
 lobster, mince it very finely, and pound it in a 
 
LOB 
 
 383 
 
 LOB 
 
 mortar, with , a salt-spoonful of white pepper, 
 half a salt-spoonful of salt, three grains of 
 cayenne, the eighth of a nutmeg, grated, and 
 two ounces of clarified hutter. Make the mix- 
 ture up into balls the size of a large egg. Dip 
 these into heaten egg, and then into fine dry 
 bread-crumbs. Let them stand a few minutes, 
 then dip them a second time. Fry them in 
 boiling fat till they are lightly browned all 
 over; drain them from the grease, and serve 
 them on a neatly-folde .1 hot napkin. Garnish 
 with parsley. Time, ten minutes to fry. Prob- 
 able cost of large lobster, from 2s. to 3s. Suf- 
 ficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 LOBSTER BASHAWS. 
 
 Prepare the lobster as in the last recipe. 
 Divide the shell into quarters, scrape these 
 thoroughly, and sprinkle over the inside of them 
 some fine dried bread-crumbs. Put in the mix- 
 ture, cover it thickly with bread-crumbs, pour 
 over the top a quarter of a pound of clarified 
 butter, an ounce over each quarter, and bake 
 in a quick oven. Serve the meat in the shells, 
 neatly arranged on a hot napkin, and garnish 
 with bright green parsley. If on being taken 
 out of the oven the lobster is not sufficiently 
 browned, hold a red-hot iron shovel over it for 
 two or three minutes. Time, ten minutes to 
 bake. Probable cost of a large lobster, from 
 2s. to 3s. ■ Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 LOBSTER, BOILED. 
 
 Wash the lobster well before boiling, 
 especially if it be a hen, tie the claws securely, 
 and throw the lobster, head first, into plenty of 
 fast-boiling salt and water. If this be done life 
 will be destroyed instantly. Afterwards let the 
 fish boil gently. When done enough, take it out, 
 wipe it, and rub the shell with a little salad-oil, 
 which will give it a clear red colour. Care should 
 be taken not to boil a lobster too long, or the 
 meat will be stringy. The Germans put a hand- ' 
 ful of caraway-seeds into the salt and water. If 
 not sufficiently boiled, the spawn will not be 
 brightly coloured. Time, moderate-sized lobster, 
 fifteen to twenty minutes; large lobster, thirty 
 to forty minutes; very large, one hour. Prob- 
 able cost, from Is. 6d. to 3s. 
 
 LOBSTER, BROILED. 
 
 Take a medium-sized freshly-boiled cock lob- 
 ster, split it open from head to tail, remove what 
 are called the lady fingers, which are not to be 
 eaten, sprinkle a little white pepper over the 
 meat, and place pieces of butter here and there 
 upon it. Lay the sheila open upon a gridiron 
 above a bright, clear fire, and when quite hot, 
 serve on a neatly-folded napkin. Time to broil, 
 a quarter of an hour. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. Probable cost. Is. 6d. to 33. 
 
 LOBSTER BUTTER. 
 
 Take the spawn or coral of a hen lobster and 
 pound it in a mortar with a little salt and 
 cayenne pepper, and twice the weight in fresh 
 butter. Eub the mixture through a sieve, and 
 pub it in, a cool place until wanted for use. 
 This butter will keep a long time, and as 
 lobsters with spawn cannot always be obtained, 
 the cook should endeavour to keep some always 
 on. hand, as it is needed for sauce and other 
 dishes. Special care should be taken to break the 
 
 seeds when pounding the spawn. When the 
 spawn cannot be had, pound the shell of the 
 lobster very finely with a quarter of a pound of 
 fresh butter. Put it in a jar, and place this jar 
 in a saucepan of boiling water. Let it boil 
 gently for an hour, then press the butter through 
 a cloth into a basin of cold water. When it has 
 stiffened, lift it from the water, drain it, pass 
 it through a sieve, and mix with it an equal 
 quantity of fresh butter. Probable cost of 
 lobster. Is. 6d. and upwards. 
 
 LOBSTER, BUTTERED. 
 
 Pick the meat from a large freshly-boiled cock 
 lobster. Mince it finely, and put it into a stew- 
 pan with an ounce and a half of fresh butter 
 rolled in flour. Stir it over a gentle fire until 
 quite hot, then add the eighth of a nutmeg, 
 grated, a dessert-spoonful of chilli vinegar, or, 
 if this is not at hand, common vinegar may be 
 used, and three grains of cayenne, with half a 
 salt-spoonful of white pepper in it. Two table- 
 spoonfuls of rich gravy are a great improvement 
 to this dish. Stir the mixture gently over the 
 fire until it is quite hot. Serve it in the shell 
 of the lobster with bread-crumbs over the meat. 
 Time to simmer, ten minutes. Probable cost, 
 from 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. Sufficient for six or seven 
 persons. 
 
 LOBSTER, BUTTERED (another way). 
 
 Pick the meat from a large freshly-boiled cock 
 lobster. Mince it finely, and put it into a stew- 
 pan with an ounce and a half of butter, rolled 
 in flour, half a salt-spoonful of salt, a salt- 
 spoonful of white pepper, the eighth of a small 
 nutmeg, grated, a wine-glassful of sherry, the 
 same of rich gravy, and a table-spoonful of 
 lemon-pickle. When quite hot, put the mixture 
 into the shells, and garnish with parsley and 
 small three-cornered pieces of toasted bread. 
 Time to heat, about a quarter of an hour. Prob- 
 able cost, 3s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 LOBSTER, CHOOSING A. 
 
 Unboiled lobsters should be heavy and full of 
 motion, which is an indication of their being 
 fresh. If they are thickly crusted, they are old. 
 Medium-sized lobsters, when heavy, are often 
 better than large ones. The flavour of the flesh 
 of the cock lobster is finer than that of the hen. 
 It may be known by the narrowness of the back 
 part of the tail, and by the stiffness of the two 
 uppermost fins within it. When lobsters are 
 freshly boiled their tails are stiff, and when 
 lightly pulled return with a spring. 
 
 LOBSTER, COLD. 
 
 Take off the large claws and crack the shell 
 lightly, without disfiguring the fish. Split open 
 the tail with a sharp knife, and dish the fish on 
 a folded napkin, with the head in an upright 
 position in the centre, and the tail and claws 
 arranged neatly round it. Garnish with parsley. 
 Salt, cayenne, mustard, salad-oil, and vinegar 
 may be eaten with it. Sufficient, a medium- 
 sized lobster for two or three persons. 
 
 LOBSTER, COLD, DRESSED. 
 
 Pick the meat from the shell, mince it finely, 
 and mix it with a little salad dressing, or with a 
 few bread-crumbs, a little salad-oil, pepper, mus- 
 tard, and vinegar, the quantities to be regulated 
 
LOB 
 
 384 
 
 LOB 
 
 by taste and the size of the f lobster. Probable 
 cost, from Is. 6d. Sufficient, a medium-sized 
 lobster for two or three persons. 
 
 LOBSTER, CREAMED. 
 
 Boil down the shell and legs of a large lobster 
 in a pint of water, and reduce the liquor to half 
 that quantity. Put it in a saucepan with the 
 scraggy part of the lobster, and bring it to the 
 boil, then add » gill of cream, the firm flesh cut 
 into dice, seasoning, and sufficient white roux 
 to make the mixture thick. Take it from the 
 are, put in a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice, salt, 
 cayenne, a little anchovy essence, and some of 
 the coral. Have ready on a hot dish a border 
 of mashed potatoes or rice, turn the fish into the 
 centre, sprinkle the rest of the coral over the 
 border, and garnish the outer edge with shrimps 
 or prawns. 
 
 LOBSTER CROQUETTES. 
 
 Pick the meat carefully from the shell of a 
 freshly-boiled hen lobster, and mince it very 
 finely. Pound the coral and spawn in a mortar, 
 and mix with it a little grated nutmeg, three 
 grains of cayenne, a tea-spoonful of anchovy 
 sauce, two table-spoonfuls of white sauce, and 
 the well-beaten yolks of three eggs. Add the 
 minced lobster, and stir all these ingredients 
 over a gentle fire until the egg is set. Spread 
 the mixture on a plate, and when cold, make it 
 tip into the shape of corks. Dip these in beaten 
 egg, roll them in bread-crumbs, and fry them in 
 hot fat until they are lightly browned all over. 
 Drain them, and pile them upon a folded napkin, 
 in a hot dish. Garnish with parsley. Time, 
 oight minutes to fry. Probable cost, 2s. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 
 LOBSTER CURRY. 
 
 Pick the meat from the shell of a freshly- 
 boiled medium-sized lobster, and cut it into neat 
 square pieces. Mix a dessert-spoonful of curry 
 smoothly with a quarter of a pint of good stock. 
 Mince two onions finely. Fry them in a little 
 butter until they are tender without being 
 browned, dredge a tea-spoonful of flour over 
 them, pour over them the curry powder and 
 stock, and stir the mixture until it thickens. 
 Put in the pieces of lobster, and stew gently for 
 half an hour. Just before serving, add a table- 
 spoonful of strained lemon-juice. Put the lob- 
 ster on a hot dish, pour the sauce over it, and 
 send rice boiled as for curries to table with it. 
 Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 LOBSTER CUTLETS. 
 
 Cut the meat from a moderate-sized hen lob- 
 stei into small dice. Beat half an ounce of 
 butter and an ounce of flour over the fire till 
 smooth, then add a gill of water, boil, and stir 
 in a table-spoonful of cream, six drops of lemon- 
 juice, salt, pepper, and cayenne, with lobster 
 butter (see Lobsteb Butteb) to redden the 
 whole, and the lobster meat. Stir the mixture 
 over the fire, pour it on a plate till cold, then 
 flour lightly and form into cutlets about a third 
 of an inch thick and three inches long, stick a 
 little piece of one of the small claws into each, 
 dip each into beaten egg, and roll it in bread- 
 crumbs. Let the cutlets stand a few minutes, 
 then dip them in egg and bread-crumbs a second 
 
 time. Fry them in hot fat until they are lightly 
 coloured, and place each cutlet as it is finished 
 on a piece of blotting-paper before the fire. 
 Arrange in a circle on a hot dish, and garnish 
 with parsley. Time, two or three minutes to 
 fry. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for six or 
 eight persons. 
 LOBSTER CUTLETS (another way). 
 
 Put in a saucepan one table-spoonful of 
 butter, and when it bubbles add one table- 
 spoonful of flour. Cook, but not brown. Add 
 slowly one cupful of hot cream and stir till 
 smooth. Eemove from the fire, add one tea- 
 spoonful of salt, a dash of cayenne pepper, a 
 slight dusting of nutmeg, the yolks of three 
 hard-boiled eggs mashed fine, and the lobster 
 meat cut in small bits. Be careful in mixing 
 not to "muss" the meat. Spread half an inch 
 thick on a platter to cool. When sufficiently 
 cold, mould or cut into the form of chops. Dip 
 in egg, roll in bread-crumbs, and fry quickly in 
 hot fat. Remember that all the ingredients have 
 been cooked once. These cutlets will mould 
 better if the mixture is left for some time to 
 harden, and are not harmed in the least by 
 standing some hours after being formed and 
 before being cooked. After frying, insert a 
 small lobster claw at the narrow end of the 
 cutlet. Drain on paper and serve on a napkin. 
 Pass with them cardinal sauce, made as follows. 
 Blend thoroughly together four table-spoon- 
 fuls of butter, one table-spoonful of finely 
 chopped parsley, the juice of half a lemon and 
 a dash of paprika. When ready to serve, add 
 one tea-spoonful of lobster coral, dried and 
 pounded to a powder. If this is not available, 
 use a little fruit-red colour paste, till you get 
 the desired tint. 
 LOBSTER CUTLETS, QUICKLY MADE. 
 
 Choose a very large lobster. Let it be half 
 boiled ; take the flesh out whole, cut it into slices 
 a quarter of an inch thick, and dip these into 
 beaten egg and then into highly-seasoned bread- 
 crumbs. Let them stand ten minutes, then dip 
 them again, and fry them in hot butter till they 
 are lightly browned all over. Drain them from 
 the fat, and arrange them in a circle on a hot 
 dish, pour a quarter of a pint of lobster sauce 
 into the centre, and send to table as hot as pos- 
 sible. Hot pickles should accompany this dish. 
 The sauce should be made in the ordinary way. 
 Time, eight minutes to fry. Probable cost, 38. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 LOBSTER, DRESSED, WITH SAUCE PIQUANT. 
 
 Pick the meat from the body and claws of a 
 freshly-boiled cock lobster, and divide it into 
 neat pieces about half an inch sqjiare. Take the 
 yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, pound them 
 well, and mix with them a tea-spgonful of raw 
 mustard, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and half a 
 grain of cayenne. Add very gradually, by drops 
 at first, beating well between every addition, 
 four table-spoonfuls of salad-oil, and afterwards 
 two table-spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, and a 
 dessert-spoonful of very hot chilli vinegar. This 
 sauce ought to be of the consistency of good 
 cream. Pour it just before serving over the 
 lobster, and garnish with parsley. Time, halt 
 an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 2s. Suf' 
 ficient for three or four persons. 
 
OS 
 
 Id 
 
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 LOBSTER FRICASSEE. 
 
 Pick the meat from the tail and claws of a 
 medium-sized lobster, cut it into small squares, 
 and put these in a saucepan with half a pint of 
 good white sauce, pound the coral, and mix it 
 smoothly with the liquid. Season with half a 
 salt-spoonful of salt and half a salt-spoonful of 
 white pepper and pounded mace mixed. When 
 the mixture is on the point of boiling take it 
 from the fire, let it cool a moment, then add a 
 tablespoonful of strained lemon-juice. The 
 white sauce may be made of a quarter of a pint 
 of good beef stock and a quarter of a pint 
 of cream, thickened with a little arrowroot; or, 
 if no beef stock is at hand, the shell of the lob- 
 ster may be boiled in half a pint of water and 
 cream, flavouring and thickening being added 
 to it. Time, about ten minutes to bring the 
 sauce to the boiling point. Probable cost, 2b. 6d. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 LOBSTER, GRATIN OF. 
 
 (i^ee LoBSTEB Au Gbatin.) 
 LOBSTER, MAYONNAISE OF. 
 
 Take out the meat of a freshly-boiled hen 
 lobster, and cut it into small neat squares. 
 Trim and wash two large fresh lettuces, or any 
 other salad, taking great care that they are 
 quite dry before being used. Cut or tear these 
 into neat pieces, and arrange a layer of them 
 at the bottom of a large dish, place several 
 pieces of lobster upon them, and repeat until the 
 materials are finished. Just before serving pour 
 over them a sauce made as follows. Beat the 
 yolis of two raw eggs for two or three minutes, 
 until they begin to feel thick, add, by drops at 
 first, ten table-spoonfuls of best salad-oil, and 
 four of tarragon vinegar. The mixture should 
 be as thick and smooth as cream. The secret 
 of making a mayonnaise is to add the liquid 
 gradually, and to beat well between every 
 addition. Season the sauce with half a tea- 
 spoonful of dry mustard, half a salt-spoonful of 
 salt, and half a salt-spoonful of white pepper. 
 Cover the salad with the liquid. At the last 
 moment, sprinkle over it the lobster coral; 
 which has been powdered and well sifted, 
 and garnish the dish with sliced beetroot and 
 hard-boiled eggs. Time, an hour to prepare. 
 Probable cost of lobster. Is. 6d. and upwards. 
 Sufficient for eight or ten persons. 
 
 LOBSTER, MIROTON OF. 
 
 Soak the crumb of a penny roll until it is quite 
 soft in as much cream as will just cover it. Pick 
 all the meat from a medium-sized, freshly-boiled 
 hen lobster, pound it with the spawn thoroughly 
 in a mortar, and mix with it the soaked crumb, 
 and the well-beaten yolks of tlaree fresh eggs. 
 Season with pepper, salt, and pounded mace. 
 Just before boiling the mixture, add a whole egg, 
 which has been well whisked. Line a plain round 
 mould with some thin slices of ham, fat and 
 lean together, pour in the mixture, and boil 
 until it is done enough. Send lobster sauce to 
 table with it. Time to boil, an hour and twenty 
 minutes. Probable cost of lobster. Is. 6d. and 
 upwards. Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 LOBSTER OMELET. 
 
 Remove the flesh from a small freshly-boiled 
 lobster, and mince it up finely. Whisk up four 
 
 eggs, strain them, add the lobster and pepper 
 and salt to taste, and whisk again to mix 
 thoroughly. Dissolve two ounces of butter in 
 an omelet-pan, and pour in the mixture. Place 
 over a moderate fire, and stir one way until the 
 omelet is set. Turn it on to a very hot dish, 
 fold it in two, and serve at once. 
 
 LOBSTER PATTIES. 
 
 . Take a medium-sized, freshly-boiled hen lob- 
 ster, pick out the meat from the tail and claws, 
 mince it finely, and put it into a stewpan with 
 a dessert-spoonful of the spawn, pounded and 
 sifted, an ounce of butter, a tea-spoonful of 
 cream, a tea-spoonful of veal jelly, half a tea- 
 spoonful of the essence of anchovies, a tea-spoon- 
 ful of grated lemon-rind, and a little salt, 
 pepper, pounded mace, and cayenne. Stir the 
 mixture over the fire for a few minutes. Line 
 some patty-pans with good puff paste, which has 
 been rolled out a quarter of an inch thick, put a 
 crust of bread into each, to preserve the form, 
 lay on the covers, ornament the edges with the 
 back of a knife, brush them over with yolk of 
 ^gg, and bake in a quick oven. When the pat- 
 ties are baked, take out the bread, partially fill 
 them with the hot mixture, replace the covers, 
 and serve immediately. Dish them on a neatly- 
 folded napkin. Time, a quarter of an hour to 
 bake the patties, five minutes to stew the mix- 
 ture. Probable cost, 3d. each. Sufficient for 
 three dozen patties. 
 
 LOBSTER PIE. 
 
 Pick the meat from two medium-sized freshly- 
 boiled lobsters, and cut it into small, neat 
 pieces. Bruise the shells and spawn in a mortar, 
 and put them into a stewpan with a quarter of 
 a pint of water, three spoonfuls of vinegar, half 
 a tea-spoonful of salt and pepper, and a quarter 
 of a tea-spoonful of pounded mace. Simmer 
 gently until the goodness is extracted, then 
 strain the gravy, thicken it with an ounce of 
 butter rolled in flour, and let it boil again. Line 
 the edges of the pie-dish with good puff paste, 
 put in the pieces of lobster, strain the gravy 
 over them, and strew some finely-grated bread- 
 crumbs on them ; lay the cover over all, and bake 
 in a moderate oven. When the paste is done, 
 the pie is ready. Serve either hot or cold. Time 
 to bake, about an hour and a quarter. Probable 
 cost of lobsters. Is. 6d. and upwards. Sufficient 
 for six or eight persons. 
 LOBSTER, POTTED. 
 
 Pick out all the meat from a medium-sized, 
 freshly-boiled hen lobster, and pound (the white 
 meat of the claws should be pounded apart from 
 the rest) it and the coral in a mortar to a smooth 
 paste. Mix with this a tea-spoonful of anchovy 
 sauce, a grain of cayenne, half a tea-spoonful of 
 white pepper, the eighth part of a nutmeg, 
 grated, and a quarter of a pound of clarified 
 butter. A few shrimps may be added or not. 
 When thoroughly pounded, press the mixture 
 into jars, and pour cool clarified butter over. 
 When the butter is set the lobster is ready to 
 serve. Time, an hour and a half to prepare. 
 Probable cost of lobster, la. 6d. Sufficient for 
 half a dozen persons. 
 LOBSTER, POTTED (another way). 
 
 Pick the meat from a medium-sized, freshly- 
 boiled hen lobster. Tear the white part into 
 
LOB 
 
 386 
 
 LOB 
 
 flakes with two forks, and pound a table-spoonful 
 of it with the soft parts and the spawn in a 
 mortar. Use the same seasoning as in the last 
 recipe. When ready, press the red and white 
 meat into jars iulayers, and cover with clarified 
 butter. When prepared in this way the appear- 
 ance of the lobster is better than when thie last 
 recipe is followed, but the meat will not keep so 
 long. Time, about an hour and a half to pre- 
 pare. Probable cost of lobster. Is. 6d. Sufficient 
 for half a dozen persons. 
 
 LOBSTER QUENELLES. 
 
 Pick the meat from a freshly-boiled hen lob- 
 ster. Pound the flesh of the claws, the coral, 
 and the spawn in a mortar with a quarter of a 
 pound of butter, the flesh of a large whiting, and 
 six ounces of panada (see Panada). Add the 
 yolks of four eggs and the whites of two, and 
 season with a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce, a 
 pinch of salt, a grain of cayenne, and the eighth 
 of a nutmeg, grated. When thoroughly pounded, 
 form the forcemeat into the shape of the bowl 
 of a spoon. The quenelles may be either fried 
 in hot butter, and served with lobster sauce as 
 an entree, or be used for garnish, etc. Time, ten 
 minutes to fry. Probable cost of lobster. Is. 6d. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. '■ 
 
 LOBSTER, RISSOLES OF. 
 
 Pick the meat from a small newly-boiled fresh 
 lobster. Mince it finely, and. mix with it half a 
 tea-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of finely- 
 shred parsley, and a pinch of cayenne, and pour 
 upon it the strained juice of half a small lemon. 
 Fry an inch of sliced onion in butter until 
 tender, ' pour over it a quarter of a pint of 
 cream, simmer for three or four minutes, then 
 put in the minced lobster; add the yolks of two 
 eggs, and stir all over the fire until the eggs are 
 set. Spread the mixture on a dish, and let it 
 remain until cold. Roll out some good puff paste 
 to the thickness of the eighth of an inch. Place 
 small balls of the mince upon it at short dis- 
 tances from each other. .Moisten the paste 
 round them with a little water, and cover them 
 with more paste. Press the edges securely, trim 
 them neatly, dredge a little fiour over them, and 
 fry them in hot fat until lightly browned. Dish 
 them on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and 
 serve hot. Probable cost of small lobster, 9d. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 LOBSTER, ROAST. 
 
 Lobsters are occasionally half roasted and 
 half boiled, instead of being boiled until done 
 enough in th& usual- way . When half done, they 
 are taken out of the water, dried, rubbed over 
 with butter, placed on a dish before the fire, and 
 basted liberally until they are well frothed. The 
 usual plan, however, is the best. 
 
 LOBSTER SALAD. 
 
 lii making lobster salad be careful that the 
 lobster is sweet and fresh, and that the lettuces 
 are crisp and dry. Unless the latter are perfectly- 
 free from moisture, the sauce, instead of blend- 
 ing properly, will' be liable to 'float in oily 
 particles on the top. Take the meat of one or 
 two large lobsters, divide it into neat piecesj 
 and season each piece slightly with pepper, salt, 
 and. vinegar. Place a bed of shredded: lettuce- 
 hearts at the bottom of a dish, put a layer of 
 
 lobster upon it, mixed, if liked, with a few slices 
 of cucumber; , coyer again. with lettuce, and re- 
 peat until the materials aje exhausted. Decorate 
 the border with any garnish that may suit the 
 taste. It may consist of aspic jelly cut in dice, 
 sliced beetroot, stamped with a cutter, hard- 
 boiled eggs cut into quarters, lettuce-hearts, 
 nasturtium flowers, scraped radishes,, etc. etc. 
 Pour the sauce over at the last moment, and 
 sprinkle a little powdered and sifted lobster 
 coral on the top. Mayonnaise sauce is the most 
 suitable for all fish salads. It is made as 
 follows. Beat the yolk of one raw egg until 
 thick. Add a salt-spoonful of salt, a saKspoon- 
 ful of pepper, a salt-spoonful of mustard, half 
 a pint of oil, and a quarter of a pint of vinega*. 
 After the salt, pepper, and mustard, the oil 
 should.be added, in drops at first,, and after- 
 wards in tea-spoonfuls, and the sauce should 
 be beaten a minute between each addition. 
 After every six tea-spoonfuls of oil put in a 
 tea-spoonful of vinegar. When finished,-" the 
 sauce should have the appearance of thick cream. 
 Taste it before serving, to ascertain if - the 
 seasoning be agreeable. If the mayonnaise is 
 made before it is to be used, it should be kept 
 in a cool place. Time, an hour to prepare- the 
 siilad. Probable cost, from 3s. to 5s. Sufficient 
 for a dozen persons. 
 
 LOBSTER' SALAD (another way). 
 
 Arrange the lobster and the salad as in the 
 last recipe. Boil two eggs until quite hard. 
 Let them get cold, then cut the white part into 
 slices, and lay - them on the top of the salad, 
 with a table-spoonful of bruised capers. Hub the 
 yolks smoothly with the back of a spoon; mix 
 -with them a raw egg, well beaten, a tea-spoonful 
 of mixed mustard, salt, .pepper, and sugar, a 
 shallot firiely minced, and four table-spoonfuls 
 of salad-oil. The oil must be added in very 
 small quantities at first, and the mixture well 
 beaten between each addition. When well 
 mixed and quite smooth, add one table-spoonful 
 of tarragon vinegar, and, if the sauce is not 
 sufficiently acid to suit the taste, add another 
 spoonful of white wine vinegar. Toast three 
 slices of the crumb of bread, cut them into small 
 triangular pieces, butter them, spread a little 
 caviare upon them, and put them round the 
 salad. Pour the sauce over, and serve. Time 
 to prepare, an hour. Probable cost, 3b. to 5s. 
 Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 LOBSTER SALAD DRESSING. 
 
 Sauce mayonnaise, as given in the last recipe 
 but one, is the most suitable dressing for lobster 
 salad. When oil is not liked, a idreBsing may' 
 be made as follows. Take 'the yolks 'of three 
 eggs, which have been boiled hard and allowed 
 to become cold. Rub them in a bowl with the 
 back of a silver spoon until quite smooth. Add 
 one tea^spoonful of mixed mustard, half a salt- 
 spoonful of pepper,' one table-spoonful of crfeam, 
 and a table-spoonfrul of -vinegar. Beat together 
 untilthoroughly mixed. A few drops of oil may 
 be added or not.~ Time, a quarter of an hour to 
 prepare. Probable cost; 6d. Sufficient for two 
 or three persons. 
 
 LOBSTER SAUCE. 
 
 Take the coral from the back and neck of a 
 freshljr?boiled hen lobster; Put it in a mortar 
 
tOB 
 
 387 
 
 LOB 
 
 and pound it thorpngily with double the quan- 
 tity of fresh butter, and a little cayenne, and 
 press it through a hair-sieve with the back of a 
 spoon. This is lobster butter. It ought to be 
 of a bright red colour. As it will keep for some 
 time, any that is left should be put into a jar 
 and kept in a cool, dry place until it is again 
 wanted, as lobsters with coral cannot always be 
 obtained. Pick out the white- meat, and tear it 
 into flakes with two forks. A small quantity 
 only will be required for the sauce, the rest 
 may therefore be served up some other way (see 
 LoBSTEB Salad, Lobsteb Eissolbs, Lobster 
 Cutlets, etc.). Break the shell of the lobster 
 into small pieces. Pour three-quarters of a pint 
 of water over these, and simmer gently until 
 the liquid is reduced to half a pint. Mix two 
 ounces of fresh butter with an ounce of flour. 
 Sirain the half-pint of gravy upon it, and stir 
 all over the fire until the mixture thickens, but 
 it must not boil, If despatch is necessary water 
 may be used instead of the gravy. Stir into the 
 sauce as much lobster butter (see recipe given 
 above) as will colour it brightly, add about a 
 table-spoonful of the white meat, and, if liked, 
 the juice of half a small lemon. Let it remain 
 on the fire uHtil the meat is quite hot. It must 
 be remembered, however, that if it be allowed 
 to boil the colour will be spoilt. A table-spoon- 
 - tul of cream is sometimes added. Time, two 
 or three minutes to heat the sauce. Probable 
 cost, small lobster. Is. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 LOBSTER SAUCE, MOCK. 
 
 When lobster butter is in the house, lobster 
 sauce may be easily made, and a little boiled 
 turbot or sole, torn into flakes, may be us6d as 
 a substitute for the lobster meat. If there is 
 neither lobster butter nor cold fish, boil a thick 
 fleshy sole. Take the meat from the bones 
 while it is still warm, and when nearly cold 
 smear it over with anchovy paste, or the essence 
 of shrimps. Cut it into small pieces, stir them 
 into the required quantity of melted butter, and 
 when this is heated through, serve imjnediately. 
 Time, three or four minutes to heat the sauce. 
 Probable cost, 6d. per half-pint. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 
 LOBSTER, SAUCE PIQUANT FOR. 
 
 Mix a salt-spoonful of raw mustard and a 
 small pinch of salt and pepper smoothly with a 
 dessert-spoonful of cold water; add gradually a, 
 quarter of a pint of best vinegar. Stii gently 
 over the fire until the vinegar is hot, then put 
 in two ounces of fresh butter, and serve. Time, 
 ten minutes. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 LOBSTER, SCALLOPED. 
 
 Take a freshly-boiled hen lobster. Divide the 
 shell into halves without injuring it, take out 
 all the meat, cut it into dice, and put it aside 
 for a short time. Pound the spawn and coral 
 in a mortar, with an ounce of fresh butter, a 
 tea^spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of. pepper, 
 and a blade of mace, pounded; add a tea-Bpoon- 
 ful of anchovy, two table-spoonfuls of white 
 sauce, and a tea-spoonful of strained lemon- 
 juice. Stir all gently over the fire for ten min- 
 utes, then put in the meat" of the lobster and the 
 
 beaten yolks of two eggs. When quite hot turn 
 the mixture into the two halves of the lobster 
 shell, strew bread-crumbs over, brown them 
 with a salamander, and serve on a folded napkin. 
 Garnish with parsley. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 to 3s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 LOBSTER SCALLOPS. 
 
 Cut a cooked lobster into very small pieces, 
 and put it into a basin with half an ounce of 
 flour, two ounces of butter, a gill of milk, a 
 pinch of cayenne, a tea-spoonful of anchovy 
 sauce, and a little minced parsley. Then 
 squeeze a dash of lemon juice over, fill some 
 buttered scallop shells with the mixture, sprinkle 
 with bread-crumbs, put a little butter on top of 
 each, and bake for ten minutes in a moderate 
 oven. 
 LOBSTER SOUP. 
 
 Pick the meat from a large freshly-boiled hen 
 lobster, cut it into squares, and set it in a cool 
 place until wanted. Take away the brown fin 
 and the bag in the head, and beat the smalL 
 claws, thfi fins, and the chin in a mortar. Put 
 them into a stewpan, and with them a small 
 onion, a cartot, a bunch of sweet herbs, a stick 
 of celery, the toasted crust of a French roll, a 
 small strip of lemon-rind, a tea-spoonful of salt, 
 a pinch of cayenne, and a quart of good unsea- 
 soned stock. Simmer all gently together for 
 three-quarters of an hour, then press the soup 
 through a tamis, and return it again to the- 
 saucepan. Pound the coral to a smooth paste, 
 press it through a sieve, and mix a little salt, 
 pepper, and cayenne with it. Stir these into 
 the soup, add the pieces of flesh, and when quite 
 hot, without boiling, serve. If liked, a few quen- 
 elles (see Lobster QuENBLLBs) can be fried in 
 butter, and put into the tureen before the soup 
 is poured in. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. (See also Bisque Homard.) 
 
 LOBSTER SOUP (another way). 
 
 Pick the meat from the claws, body, and tail 
 of a medium-sized freshly-boiled lobster, cut it 
 into small squares, and put it aside until 
 wanted. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in 
 a stewpan, put in with it a carrot, ah onion, 
 four sticks of celery, and three shallots, all 
 sliced, together with a bunch of parsley, a 
 small sprig of thyme, and a piece of lemon-rind. 
 Turn these about in the butter for four or five 
 minutes, then mix well with them six ounces of 
 rice flour, add gradually three pints of good 
 stock, and the bruised shell of the lobster. When 
 the soup is on the point of boiling, stir in with 
 it the spawn, which should be well bruised in a 
 mortar. Strain the soup through a tamis, re- 
 turn it again to the pan, and skim it thoroughly. 
 Add a glass of light wine, half a tea-spoonful 
 of the essence of anchovy, a tea-spoonful 
 of Worcester sauce, a tea-spoonful of strained 
 lemon-juice, a little cayenne, and, if required, 
 a pinch of salt. Fry some small quenelles (see 
 Lobster Quenelles), put them into the tureen 
 with the pieces of lobster meat, pour on the 
 soup, and serve immediately. Probable co^t, 
 2s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 LOBSTER SOUP, WITH MILK. 
 
 Prepare the meat of the lobster as in the last 
 recipe. Cut it very small, and mix with it the 
 
LOB 
 
 388 
 
 LUN 
 
 crumb of a French roll, finely grated. Put a 
 pint and a half of milk and half a pint of water 
 in a Btewpan, season it with a dessert-apoonful 
 of salt and a salt-spoonful of pepper; put into 
 it, when boiling, the lobster, the French roll, 
 and three ounces of fresh butter. Simmer 
 gently for half an hour, and serve. If liked, 
 preserved lobster can be used for making lobster 
 soup. 
 
 LOBSTER, STEWED. 
 
 Pick the meat carefully from a medium-sized 
 freshly-boiled lobster, cut it into dice, and put 
 them in an enamelled stewpan, with half a salt- 
 spoonful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of pepper, 
 half a grain of cayenne, two ounces of fresh 
 Ijutter, a tea-spoonful of mustard, and a dessert- 
 spoonful of vinegar. Stew gently for five or six 
 minutes, then add a glassful of light wine, sim- 
 mer two or three minutes longer, and serve. 
 Garnish the dish with parsley and sliced lemon. 
 Probable cost of lobster. Is. 6d. SufUcient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 LOBSTER, VOLS-AU-VENT OF, SMALL. 
 
 Vols-au-vent are baked without moulds. They 
 are rather difficult to make, and require great 
 care. They should be made of the richest puff 
 paste, rolled out seven times. Leave the paste 
 about an inch in thickness, and stamp it in 
 rounds with a plain or fluted cutter, about two 
 inches in diameter. Dip a smaller cutter, about 
 an inch and a quarter in diameter, into hot 
 water, and press it partly through the paste, 
 leaving a border all round. Bake in a brisk 
 oven; the vols-au-vent ought to rise consider- 
 ably, and be lightly browned. When they are 
 baked, scoop out the inside of the piece marked 
 out, being careful to preserve the top for a 
 cover, and turn them on a piece of clean writing- 
 ^aper to drain and dry. When ready, fill them 
 with a little minced lobster, prepared as for 
 lobster patties, and serve neatly arranged on a 
 napkin. If, after baking, the crust seems too 
 light to hold the mixture, the inside may be 
 strengthened by being brushed over with beaten 
 egg. Time, about twenty minutes to bake the 
 vols-au-vent. Probable cost, 3d. each. 
 
 LONDON SYLLABUB. 
 
 Put two ounces of loaf sugar with three- 
 quarters of a pint of sherry or Madeira into a 
 bowl, and grate half a small nutmeg into it. If 
 practicable, milk into it from the cow a quart of 
 milk; if not, procure the milk as new as possi- 
 ble, make it lukewarm, and pour it from a good 
 height through a strainer upon the wine. Serve 
 the syllabub frothed. Time, two or three min- 
 utes to warm the milk. Probable cost, exclusive 
 of the wine, 8d. Sufficient for six or seven 
 persons. 
 
 LORD MAYOR'S TRIFLE. 
 
 Slice four penny spongecakes and lay them at 
 the bottom of a deep trifle-dish. Put with them 
 a dozen ratafias, eight macaroons, and two wine- 
 glassfuls of brandy. When the liquor is soaked 
 up, spread a layer of strawberry or raspberry 
 jam over the spongecakes, and cover them with 
 a pint of rich cold custard. Pile whipped cream 
 high over the top, and ornament with pink com- 
 fits. The cream should be whipped some hours 
 
 before it is needed, and laid upon a reversed 
 sieve to drain. Time, about an hour to whip the 
 cream. Probable cost, exclusive of the brandy, 
 3s. 6d. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. 
 
 LOVAGE. 
 
 Lovage is a warm aromatic garden plant, be- 
 longing to the natural order UmheUiferce. It 
 was formerly much used both in cookery and 
 in medicine, but now is chiefly known as the 
 name of a pleasant cordial which is frequently 
 taken in conjunction, with brandy as a remedy 
 for flatulency. 
 
 LOVE CAKES. 
 
 Take four eggs, a tea-cupful of yeast, half a 
 pint of milk, a pound and a half of flour, one 
 pound of butter, half a pound of sifted sugar. 
 Beat the eggs with the yeast and warm milk, 
 make a hollow in the centre of the flour, pour in 
 the mixture; knead this dough, and add the 
 butter by degrees. Let it stand for an hour or 
 more, to rise, then add the sugar, and bake in 
 small buttered cake-tins. The tops of the cakes 
 may be ornamented with citron-peel. 
 
 LOVING CUP. 
 
 A loving cup is a large cup containing wine or 
 other liquor passed round the tabl&from guest 
 to guest at banquets, especially those of a cere- 
 monious character. The cup has three handles, 
 so that it can easily be handed from one person 
 to another. Its origin has been thus accounted 
 for: — King Henry of Navarre (who was also 
 Henry IV. of France), while hunting became 
 separated from his companions, and, feeling 
 thirsty, called at a wayside inn for a cup of 
 wine. The serving-maid on handing it to him as 
 he sat on horseback, neglected to present the 
 handle. Some wine was spilled over, and his 
 Majesty's white gauntlets were soiled. While 
 riding home he bethought him that a two- 
 handled cup would prevent a recurrence of this, 
 so his Majesty had a two-handled cup made at 
 the royal potteries, and sent it to the inn. On 
 his next visit he called again for wine, when, to 
 his astonishment, the maid (having received in- 
 structions from her mistress to be very careful 
 of the king's cup) presented it to him, holding it 
 herself by each of its handles. At once tie 
 happy idea struck the king of a cup with three 
 handles, which was promptly acted upon, as 
 his Majesty quaintly remarked, " Surely, out of 
 three handles I shall be able to get one ! " 
 Hence the loving cup. 
 
 LUNCHEON CAKE. 
 
 Any good plain cake may be used as a 
 luncheon cake, nevertheless recipes are here 
 given for two or three. Eub half a pound of 
 fresh butter into three-quarters of a pound of 
 fine flour; add a quarter of a pound of ground 
 rice, a pinch of salt, half a pound of moist sugar, 
 four ounces of currants, picked and washed, half 
 an ounce of caraway-seeds, if liked, half a nut- 
 meg, grated, and an ounce of candied lemon cut 
 into thin slices. Mix the dry ingredients thor- 
 oughly. Dissolve a tea-spoonful of carbonate 
 of soda in half a pint of boiling milk. Let it 
 cool, then stir into it three eggs well beaten. 
 Moisten the cake with the liquid, and be care- 
 ful to mix all very thoroughly. Butter a tin. 
 
LUN 
 
 389 
 
 MAC 
 
 and line the aides with buttered paper. Put in 
 the cake, and bake in a moderate oven. In 
 order to ascertain when the cake is done, push 
 a skewer to the bottom of it, and when it 
 comes out clear and dry the cake is done 
 enough. Let it stand entire for two days be- 
 fore cutting. Time to bake, an hour and a 
 quarter. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 LUNCHEON CAKE MADE FROM DOUGH. 
 
 Take two pounds of dough just ready for the 
 oven, rub into it two ounces of fresh butter, a 
 quarter of a pound of currants, washed, picked, 
 and dried thoroughly, half a pound of moist 
 sugar, and half a large nutmeg, grated, with a 
 little sliced candied lemon, if liked. These in- 
 gredients should be rubbed into the dough very 
 lightly. Put the mixture into a basin, cover it 
 with a cloth, and let it stand in a warm place 
 to rise. Then knead the dough, butter some 
 tins, three-parts fill them with the cake, let it 
 again rise for a few minutes, and bake in a 
 moderate oven. If bread is not made at home, 
 a little dough may be prociired from the baker's. 
 Time to bake, about an hour and a half. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 
 
 LUNCHEON CAKE, PLAIN. 
 
 Mix two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder and 
 a pinch of salt with one pound of flour; rub in 
 four ounces of good beef dripping, add a 
 quarter of a pound of moist sugar, six ounces of 
 currants, picked and stoned, half a nutmeg, 
 grated, and » quarter of an ounce of caraway- 
 seeds, if liked. Make the mixture up into a 
 paste with two eggs and half a pint of milk, 
 take in a buttered tin in a moderate oven. 
 This cake is better if left for a day before it is 
 cut into. Time to bake, about an hour and a 
 quarter. Probable cost, 9d. 
 
 LYONNAISE SAUCE FOR CUTLETS, ETC. 
 
 Cut the stalks from half a dozen large ripe 
 tomatoes. Divide them into halves, and put 
 them into a stewpan with four table-spoonfuls 
 of good gravy, and a little salt and cayenne, 
 and let them simmer very gently. When quite 
 tender, press them through a hair sieve. Slice 
 two Spanish onions very finely, fry them in a 
 little fresh butter until they are soft and very 
 lightly browned, then put them into a stewpan 
 with the tomato-pulp, two table-spoonfuls of 
 good brown gravy, and a table-spoonful of 
 strained lemon-juice. Stir gently over the fire 
 for three or four minutes, and serve hot. Time, 
 three-quarters of an hour to stew the tomatoes. 
 Probable coat. Is. 4d. Sufficient for six or 
 eight persons. 
 
 M 
 
 MACARONI. 
 
 This is a peculiar paste or dough, prepared 
 from wheat flour, and manufactured into tubes 
 or ribbons. It is an Italian invention, and 
 though made by a simple process, has never 
 been produced with such success in any other 
 country. The grain grown in the southern dis- 
 tricts of Europe is said to be the best suited for 
 its manufacture, through its possessing a 
 greater amount of gluten than any other sort 
 of grain. The wheat, after being thoroughly 
 washed, is freed from the husks, and ground in 
 
 water-mills ; when hot, water is added, till it is 
 of the consistency of stiff dough. Five differ- 
 ^ ent qualities of flour are obtained by five separ- 
 ate siftings, the last giving the finest and most 
 delicate that can be made. The dough is 
 kneaded by means of a wooden pole, attached 
 to a post fixed in the ground, and worked up 
 and down as a lever, under one end of which 
 the paste is placed. In making the dough into 
 tubes and ribbons, a hollow cylindrical cast- 
 iron vessel is used, having the bottom perfor- 
 ated with holes or slits. This is filled with the 
 paste. Then a piece of wood or a heavy iron 
 plate is brought down upon it by means of a 
 screw, and in this manner the paste is forced 
 through the holes and receives the shape of the 
 perforations. The macaroni is partially baked 
 as it issues from these holes, by a fire placed 
 below the cylinder, and as it descends is drawn 
 away and hung on rods, placed across the room, 
 where in a few da^ it dries so as to be fit for 
 use. The finest sorts of macaroni are the 
 whitest in colour, and those which do not burst 
 or break up in boiling. In the boiling process, 
 macaroni should swell considerably, and become 
 quite soft, but it should retain its form, other- 
 wise one may conclude that it has not been 
 made of the best wheat. Occasionally macar- 
 oni is flavoured and coloured with saffron and 
 turmeric, to suit certain palates. 
 
 MACARONI (k la Creme). 
 
 Boil some macaroni in slightly salted water 
 for about twenty minutes. Strain it, and re- 
 place in the saucepan for a few minutes with 
 a small piece of butter. Then add, according 
 to amount, one or two spoonfuls of thick cream, 
 stir well, and dish up. If cheese is liked, it 
 must be added before the cream, taking care to 
 stir it well till the cheese becomes stringy. 
 
 MACARONI (a la Pontiffe). 
 
 Boil eight ounces of long straight ribbon 
 macaroni in the usual way, but fifteen minutes 
 will be enough to swell it, which is all that is 
 needed. Drain on a sieve, and when drained 
 put a neat layer of it as a lining in a well- 
 buttered mould; cover next with a quenelle 
 forcemeat of fowl or rabbit, and fill the mould 
 with game or poultry, boned and filleted, some 
 larks, also boned, and rolled with thin bits of 
 bacon inside each, and some delicate strips or 
 pieces cut into rounds about the size of a shil- 
 ling, distributed with egg-balls and button 
 mushrooms, previously simmered in gravy, in 
 the mould. Thicken the gravy, a little of which 
 use to moisten the whole, cover with macaroni, 
 and simmer, but do not boil, for an hour. Prob- 
 able cost, 3d. to 4d. per pound. 
 
 MACARONI ik la Reine). 
 
 Boil half a pound of pipe macaroni (see 
 Macaboni, BoHiED, 1 l'Italienne). Mean- 
 while, warm slowly in a stewpan three-quarters 
 of a pint of cream, and slice into it half a pound 
 of Stilton"or other white cheese, add two ounces 
 of good fresh butter, two blades of mace, 
 pounded, a good pinch of cayenne, and a little 
 salt. Stir round the pan until the cheese is 
 melted, and the whole is mixed and hot and free 
 from lumps, or put the macaroni on a hot 
 dish, and pour the sauce over. It may be 
 
MAC 
 
 SS'O 
 
 MAC 
 
 covered with fried bread-crumbs of a pale 
 colour, and dried in a Dutch oven. Time, 
 about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 
 5d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for seven or 
 eight persons. • 
 
 MACARONI AND CHEESE. 
 
 Boil three-quarters of a pound of macaroni in 
 water. Make a sauce by boiling an ounce and 
 a half of flour, a pint and a half of milk, and 
 three ounces of butter together. Stir in half a 
 pound of grated cheese and let it dissolve, then 
 add the macaroni. Season, and when well mixed 
 pour into a deep baking-dish or cake-tin, sprinkle 
 with a little more cheese, and brown it before 
 the fire or in the oven. Pin a clean napkin 
 round, and serve at once. Probable cost, 3d. 
 or 4d. per pound. 
 MACARONI AND HAM. 
 
 Mince half a pound of ham finely, season it 
 with pepper and chopped parsley, put a layer at 
 the bottom of a pie-dish, then one of cold boiled 
 macaroni cut into inch lengths, on which 
 sprinkle a little chopped onion, add an ounce of 
 butter in small pieces. Then put more ham 
 and more macaroni in layers ;_ sprinkle with 
 bread-crumbs, add more butter and a wine- 
 glassful of white sauce, and bake for eight 
 minutes in a fairly hot oven. 
 
 MACARONI AND MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Boil a quarter of a pound of macaroni in a pint 
 and a half of water, with a little pepper and 
 salt, for twenty minutes. Drain the macaroni, 
 put it into a clean stewpan, pour a quarter of a 
 pint of stock over it, with an ounce of butter 
 and one of grated cheese. Stir over a gentle fire 
 for five minutes, and turn on to a hot dish. 
 Take the desired number of mushrooms, wash 
 and skin them, cut them into slices, and put 
 them into a stewpan with an ounce of butter and 
 a little salt and pepper. Toss them over the 
 fire for ten minutes, take them up, put them on 
 the macaroni, and serve. 
 
 MACARONI AND SWEETBREADS, TIMBALE OF. 
 
 Boil one pound of macaroni tender in two 
 quarts of milk and a quarter of a pound of but- 
 ter. Drain on a cloth. Line a mould with slices 
 of fat bacon; mix a couple of beaten eggs with 
 the macaroni, and season with pepper and salt. 
 Put some in the mould, and a ragout of sweet- 
 breads in the middle (see Sweetbreads, RAGot^T 
 or) ; fill up with macaroni, and bake or boil the 
 timbale for an hour. Turn out of the mould, 
 take off the slices of bacon, and serve with white 
 or brown sauce. 
 
 MACARONI (au Gratin). 
 
 Break up a pound of macaroni in three-inch 
 lengths, boil as usual, and drain. Put into » 
 stewpan a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, 
 the macaroni, twelve ounces of Parmesan and 
 Gruyere cheese mixed, and about a quarter of 
 a pint of some good sauce — bechamel or white 
 sauce. Move the stewpan and its contents over 
 the fire until the macaroni has absorbed the 
 butter, etc., then turn it out on a dish, which 
 should be garnished with croutons. Pile it in 
 the shape of a dome, cover with bread-raspings, 
 a little clarified butter run through a colander, 
 and brown very lightly with a salamander. 
 Time, three-quarters of an hour to prepare. 
 
 Probable cost, 3d. or 4d. per pound. Sufficient 
 for ten or twelve persons. 
 
 MACARONI (au Vin). 
 
 Boil two ounces of macaroni from twenty to 
 thirty minutes. Drain on a sieve before the fire. 
 Put into a stewpan two table-spoonfuls of thick 
 cream, a lump of butter, and as much Parmesan, 
 grated, as will make it, when melted, of the 
 consistency of custard. Add the macaroni, and 
 toss well in the pan together. Have ready a 
 French roll that has been steeped in about a 
 pint of wine — it should have been rasped so that 
 no brown crust remains on it. Pour the maca- 
 roni hot over the roll, and brown with a sala- 
 mander. Probable cost, 3d. or 4d. 
 MACARONI, BOILED {k I'ttalienne). 
 
 Put five or six ounces of the best Italian 
 macaroni into plenty of boiling water, not less 
 than three pints, a salt-spoonful of salt, and one 
 of fine pepper ; sinimer for twenty minutes, and 
 drain. After this first boiling, which should be 
 observed in the preparation of all dishes, return 
 the macaroni to the stewpan, with half a pint 
 of gravy or broth, according to the richness re- 
 quired, and simmer until the macaroni has im- 
 bibed all the liquid. Have ready grated a 
 quarter of a pound of Parmesan and Gruyere 
 cheese, mixed. Put half the quantity with the 
 macaroni until nearly melted, then add the rest, 
 and an ounce of butter. Move the contents of 
 the pan round in one direction until the cheese 
 has been well incorporated and dissolved in the 
 macaroni. Turn it out on a hot dish, ajad serve. 
 In this way macaroni is eaten at most of the 
 best tables in Leghorn and Florence. Time, 
 three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 3d. or 
 4d. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 MACARONI, BROWN, 
 
 To a quarter of a pound of macaroni that has 
 been boiled for ten minutes and drained from 
 the water, add the following :-^Half a tea- 
 spoonful of flour mixed with half a pint of the 
 water from the macaroni, a little salt, pepper, 
 and a tea-spoonful of any good store sauce 
 (omitted for an invalid); simmer till the mac- 
 aroni is soft and has absorbed the liquid, i.e. 
 about half an hour to forty minutes, varying 
 with the macaroni. Towards the end . of the 
 cooking add a, dessert-spoonful of Bovril and a 
 little browning to deepen the colour. 
 MACARONI CHEESE. 
 
 Wash half a pound of Naples macaroni, drain 
 it, throw it into boiling water, and boil for 
 twenty minutes. Pour the water off, and pour 
 a pint of milk upon the macaroni, and let it 
 simmer gently till tender but not pulpy. Grate 
 two ounces of dry cheese. Put some of the maca- 
 roni, with the milk, on a hot greased dish; 
 sprinkle pepper and salt and a few grains of 
 cayenne upon it, together with a little of the 
 grated cheese, and repeat the operation until 
 the ingredients are all used. Sprinkle grated 
 cheese and a spoonful of bread-raspings on the 
 top of all, and pour over it half an ounce of 
 melted butter. Brown in front of the fire or 
 in a hot oven, and serve very hot. 
 
 MACARONI, CROQUETTES OF. 
 
 To a tea-cupful of boiled pipe macaroni add 
 about two ounces of meat from a roast pheasant. 
 
MAC 
 
 391 
 
 MAC 
 
 partridge, harei or any game,' a slice' of lean 
 ham, a few mushrooms, or a truffle. Mince 
 separately, and mix these ingredients together. 
 Boil a breakfast-cupful of good white sauce until 
 reduced to a quarter of a pint, then simmer in 
 it for a few minutes a salt-spoonful of shallot, 
 chopped fine, a ealt-spoonful of pugar, and 
 one of pepper and nutmeg, mixed ; lastly, stir 
 in. two. or three yolks of egga, and, when these 
 have set, the juice of half a lemon." This sauce 
 may now be poured over the mince, mixed with 
 it, and left to. get cold, when egg-shaped balls 
 may be made in a table-spoon, and completed 
 by the hand. Fry with egg and bread-crumbs in 
 boiling lard from eight to ten minutes. Serve 
 with fried parsley as a garnish. Sufficient for a 
 dish. 
 
 MACARONI CUSTARD. 
 
 Boil two ounces of macaroni in a pint of milk 
 until the pipes are swelled to their utmost size 
 ■without breaking. Season with cinnamon and 
 a few drops of lemon-juice. Lay them on a 
 custard dish, and pour a custard over them hot. 
 Serve cold. 
 
 MACARONI DRESSED IN THE ENGLISH 
 FASHION. 
 
 Ribbon or pipe macaroni may be used, and 
 either boiled in milk, broth, or water. To fpnr 
 ounces of macaroni so boiled, add three ounces 
 of grated cheese and a little salt ; half ' the 
 quantity of cheese is often mixed with the maca- 
 roni, and the remainder is put over the top, 
 with grated bread-crumbs and a little clarified 
 butter. Brown in an oven, or with a salaman- 
 der. Dr. Kitchener remarks on this mode of 
 dressing, " that the butter and cheese generally 
 get burned, and in this state macaroni is un- 
 wholesome." 
 
 MACARONI (en Timbale). 
 
 Boil eight ounces of macaroni in the usual 
 way, and drain it well. Have ready minced 
 the white meat of a cold roast fowl, and a slice 
 or two of lean ham ; mix with two table-spoon- 
 fuls of grated Parmesan, and moisten with 
 nearly half a pint of thick cream, and the beaten 
 yolks and whites of. three eggs. Cover a well- 
 buttered mould with some of the macaroni, and 
 mix the remainder, cut into neat lengths, with 
 the meat, with which mixture fill the mould, 
 and steam for three-quarters of an, hour. A 
 ■pudding paste is sometimes substituted for the 
 lining of macaroni, but in either case steaming 
 is better than boiling. Serve, turned out of the 
 mould, and with a good gravy. Probable cost, 
 3d. or 4d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 MACARONI FISH. 
 
 Cold cod is most often used for this dish. 
 Separate three ounces of the fish into small 
 flakes, or cEop it very finely, if preferred. Mix 
 it with six. ounces of macaroni, boiled and 
 drained as before indicated, and three ounces of 
 grated cheese. Toss it together for a few min- 
 utes in a stewpan, with a good lump of trutter, 
 or turn it out at once on a hot dish with more 
 ■gra;ted cheese over the top, to 'be browned with 
 a salamander. Scallops of salmon or sturgeon, 
 cooked en timbale, are highly appreciated. Time, 
 one hour to prepare; twenty to twenty-five 
 
 minutes to boil macaroni. Probable cost, 5d. 
 to 6d. per pound. 
 
 MACARONI IN SCALLOP SHELLS. 
 
 Boil .eight, ounces of macaroni from twenty- 
 five to thirty, minutes in the usual way, but 
 throw it into cold water, then drain, and cut into 
 half-inch lengths. Put a quarter of a pound of 
 butter into a stewpan, stir in a little flour, and 
 add a small cup of rich gravy, with a little 
 grated nutmeg, a salt-spoonful of salt, and one 
 of pepper. Toss the macaroni with two or three 
 ounces of grated Parmesan into the sauce, shake 
 and mix it well over the fire, then fill scallop 
 shells, or any fancy shapes, with the mixture, 
 which cover with more grated cheese, run clari- 
 fied butter or spread sardine butter over the 
 top, and bake quickly, or brown before the fire. 
 
 MACARONI NUDELS. 
 
 Nudel paste, like Italian macaroni, to which 
 it is nearly allied, is a " home-made " prepara- 
 tion of eggs and fiour, useful in a variety of 
 ways, and equally applicable to sweet and 
 savoury dishes. It is made thus. Take as many 
 eggs as will be required for the quantity of 
 paste to be made, but use only the whites of 
 eggs if preferred quite white. Work in as much 
 flour to two well-beaten eggs as will make a stiff 
 dough, knead until smooth, and roll out, first 
 dividing the mass into six parts, and each part 
 into a round ball, on a pasteboard kept well 
 dredged with flour. A perfectly straight rolling- 
 pin is one of • the requisites to perfect nudel 
 making; The desired thinness to which the paste 
 is to be rolled may be best illustrated by the 
 saying, " That to arrive at the perfection of 
 nudel rolling is' to be able to read through the 
 paste." Having accomplished this, dry each 
 cafce'on a napkin — a few minutes will do this — 
 commence with the first rolled cake by cutting 
 it into equal halves and quarters. Lay one 
 quarter on the other, make the cut edges meet 
 equally, and with a sharp knife cut through in 
 as thread-like a manner as possible, then dry — 
 by scattering them they wul separate ; or the 
 paste rolled, as before indicated, is cut with a 
 tin-cutter into stars, rings, etc., w^ich may be 
 stamped out, and piled one cake on the other; 
 they will separate on being thrown into boiling 
 soup. 
 
 MACARONI NUDELS, TO BOIL. 
 
 To boil nudels, throw them into boiling water, 
 slightly salted ; from ten to fifteen minutes will 
 be long enough. ■ Strain, and lay them on a 
 shallow, well-buttered dish, with bits of butter 
 and grated Parmesan cheese in alternate layers, 
 finishing with the cheese. Brown lightly in the 
 oven, or put the nudels before the fire, and 
 brown with a salamander. Tape or broad nudels 
 are best for this dish. Sufficient, half a pound 
 of nudels to a quarter of a pound of cheese. 
 
 MACARONI, PATE OF. 
 
 Boil six or eight ounces of macaroni in good 
 veal broth, drain, and cut it into equal lengths 
 of two inches. Cover the bottom of a pie-dish 
 with macaroni, and on this lay a quenelle of 
 forcemeat or ham-balls, if- preferred, placed 
 equally with any kind? of poultry or game, boned 
 and in filtets, sweetbreads, cockscombs, or ox- 
 palates, previously stewed with truffles or mush-^ 
 
MAC 
 
 392 
 
 MAC 
 
 rooms, and minced. Put these with alternate 
 layers of the macaroni and meat, and an equal 
 quantity of cream and rich gravy to fill the dish. 
 Bake with a crust over the top, or without a 
 crust ; make hot and brown before the fire. Par- 
 mesan cheese should accompany this dish, or it 
 may be mixed with the macaroni. Time, fif- 
 teen minutes to swell the macaroni; to bake, 
 half an hour. Suflicient for seven or eight 
 persons. 
 
 MACARONI, PATE OF (another way). 
 (See Pate op Macaeoni.) 
 
 MACARONI PIE. 
 
 Boil four ounces of macaroni in veal broth or 
 beef bouillon, put part of it over the bottom of 
 a pie-dish, and cover sparingly with grated 
 cheese and an ounce of butter in small bits. 
 Mince a shallot finely, and a few mushrooms; 
 mix some salt, a blade of mace, pounded, a 
 little pepper, and a small pinch of cayenne. 
 Season a pound and a half of steak with these 
 ingredients. Cut it from the fillet small and 
 thin ; lay the steaks alternately with the maca- 
 roni into the dish, covering with macaroni and 
 grated cheese. Bun clarified butter over the 
 top, and bake in a slow oven for an hour. Prob- 
 able cost of beef. Is. 4d. per pound. Sufiicient 
 for three or four persons. 
 
 MACARONI PUDDING. 
 
 Break four ounces of macaroni into lengths, 
 and boil in a quart of water in an uncovered 
 saucepan for fifteen minutes. Drain, and boil 
 again with a pint of milk and two ounces of 
 sugar till tender but unbroken. When cool add 
 two beaten eggs, and flavour pleasantly. Put 
 the mixture into a buttered dish, and bake till 
 brown. For a superior pudding, taloe additional 
 eggs and stir in a glass of noyau or a little 
 brandy. A little orange marmalade or apricot 
 jam may, if liked, be put in the dish under the 
 macaroni. 
 
 MACARONI PUDDING, PARISIAN. 
 
 Simmer six ounces of macaroni for fifteen 
 minutes in water salted slightly. Drain, and cut 
 it into pieces of equal length. Grate two ounces 
 of Parmesan cheese, and mince the white meat 
 of a chicken, or the breast and merry-thought of 
 a fine fowl, a slice or two of boiled ham, quite 
 free from fat, seasoned with a pinch of salt, if 
 necessary, and a very little pepper. Moisten 
 the mince with a cup of thick cream, and two 
 table-spoonfuls of rich gravy. Stir the mac- 
 aroni with the mince, add the yolks of four 
 eggs, and the whites of two, and steam for three- 
 quarters of an hour in a buttered mould. Serve 
 with a rich veal gravy, fljivoured with onion and 
 tarragon, and more grated cheese in a dish. 
 Sufiicient for three or four persons. 
 
 MACARONI PUDDING, PLAIN. 
 
 Butter a pie-dish, and cover the bottom with 
 about two and a half ounces of uncooked maca- 
 roni. Pour over it one quart of cold milk made 
 sweet. Stir in a couple of well-beaten eggs, and 
 flavour with any essence liked, ratafia or vanilla. 
 Put bits of butter over the top, and a little 
 grated nutmeg. Bake in a slow oven for three 
 hours. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. 
 
 MACARONI PUDDING, WITH ALMONDS. 
 
 Blanch an ounce of sweet and four or five 
 bitter almonds ; cut them small, and soak them 
 with four ounces of macaroni broken into inch 
 lengths in a pint of milk. In an hour or two, 
 when the macaroni has well soaked, simmer it 
 over a slow fire, adding a pint of cream or milk, 
 and as much sugar — pounded loaf — as will 
 sweeten (say about four ounces). When the 
 pudding has simmered and cooled, stir in two 
 ounces of butter in bits, and six well-beaten 
 eggs. Pour the mixture, which should be 
 beaten for some minutes, into a buttered pie- 
 dish, and bake in a moderate oven, with cinna- 
 mon or grated nutmeg over the top. Time to 
 simmer macaroni, three-quarters of an hour; to 
 bake, about one hour. 
 
 MACARONI, SAVOURY. 
 
 Break two ounces of pipe macaroni into pieces 
 an inch in length, and boil these in a quart of 
 water in an uncovered saucepan for a quarter of 
 an hour. Drain and return to the stewpan with 
 a pint of well-flavoured stock, an onion chopped 
 small, and a little pepper and salt. Simmer very 
 gently by the side of the fire till the macaroni 
 is quite tender but unbroken. Make a little 
 custard with three-quarters of a. pint of milk 
 and two eggs. Put the macaroni in a greased 
 dish, pour the custard over, and bake in a 
 gentle oven till the custard is set and lightly 
 browned. If liked, the macaroni may be plainly 
 boiled till tender, then seasoned with salt and 
 pepper, and served with a little maitre d'hotel 
 sauce poured over it. 
 
 MACARONI SOUP. 
 
 This soup is easily prepared, and at short 
 notice. Boil some macaroni for fifteen or twenty 
 minutes in boiling water salted a little. Drain 
 in a colander, and have ready boiling two quarts 
 of clear stock. Cut the macaroni into two-inch 
 lengths, or into rings, and boil in the stock for 
 a few minutes. Send grated Parmesan to table 
 on a dish. Probable cost. Is. per quart. Suf- 
 ficient for eight, perse ns. 
 
 MACARONI, WITH ANCHOVIES AND BUTTER. 
 
 Fry with butter one small finely-chopped 
 onion, a little parsley, and five or six anchovies 
 prepared and cut up. Parboil twelve ounces of 
 macaroni for seven or eight minutes, drain, and 
 replace in the pan with the fried onion, etc. ; 
 add half a tumbler of white wine, half a pint of 
 stock, and a pinch of white pepper; boil over a 
 slow fire for twenty minutes, arrange in layers 
 in a dish, and sprinkle thickly with grated 
 cheese. 
 
 MACARONI, WITH CHEESE AND EGGS. 
 
 Half cook in boiling salted water twelve 
 ouncep of macaroni; drain, and replace in a 
 pan with four ounces of grated cheese, four 
 ounces of butter, and four well-whisked eggs. 
 Mix well, and stir over a slow fire for eighteen 
 or twenty minutes. Serve with grated cheese. 
 
 MACARONI, WITH CHESTNUTS. 
 
 Eoast a dozen fine chestnuts in their shells, 
 peel and pound them to a paste. Season with a 
 small tea-spoonful of salt, and put them into a 
 stewpan with eight ounces of macaroni, pre- 
 viously boiled and drained, according to the 
 
MAC 
 
 393 
 
 MAC 
 
 recipe given for boiling macaroni ; add three 
 ounces of butter and a large onion, uncut. Shake 
 the whole well together, and stir round in the 
 pan for ten or twelve minutes. If dry, pour in 
 a table-spoonful of milk, and mix again until 
 hot, when remove the onion, and dish the mac- 
 aroni. Well cover -it with equal quantities of 
 grated Parmesan and fine bread-crumbs, and 
 brown lightly in the oven, or before the fire. 
 Butter should be run over the top. 
 
 MACARONI, WITH TOMATOES. 
 
 Boil four ounces of macaroni (see Macaroni^ 
 Boiled), but in veal broth instead of water. 
 Skin four fine fresh mutton kidneys, fry them 
 lightly in butter, lift them from the stewpan, 
 and mince them finely. Make a gravy in the 
 same pan, adding a dessert-spoonful of brown 
 flour, half a. pint of rich stockj a couple of 
 shallots, minced, and a pinch of cayenne. Stew 
 the minced kidneys in this gravy for ten min- 
 utes, when part of the macaroni, which should 
 have been kept warm, may be mixed and tossed 
 in the pan for a, few minutes to absorb the 
 liquid. Serve turned out on a hot dish, arrange 
 the remainder of the macaroni on the top, and 
 pour hot tomato sauce over. Time, one hour 
 to prepare. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient 
 for two persons. 
 
 MACAROON BISCUITS. 
 
 This delicate almond biscuit is easily made by 
 experienced hands, but home-made delicate 
 pastry is seldom so successful as when purchased 
 of a respectable baker. After blanching and 
 drying the almonds (a few bitter, say eight or 
 nine, with half a pound of sweet ones), pound 
 them in a mortar, with the whites of eggs added 
 sparingly from time to time, and beaten pre- 
 viously to a firm froth. When well pounded and 
 mixed, beat in also by degrees, six ounces of 
 the finest sifted sugar, with the white of another 
 egg or two, until the mixture is of the consis- 
 tency required, then drop it through a biscuit- 
 funnel upon sheets of wafer-paper, and bake in 
 a moderate oven for about eighteen minutes. A 
 strip of almond may be put on the top of each 
 cake. Probable cost, 2s. for this quantity. 
 
 MACAROON CAKES. 
 
 Blanch, dry, and pound an ounce of sweet and 
 a quarter of an ounce of bitter almonds, and cut 
 two ounces of sweet into small bits. When 
 pounding the almonds, moisten with a tea-spoon- 
 ful of brandy. Beat two eggs to a froth, and 
 rub the almonds to a paste with them. Add to 
 the cut almonds three-quarters of a pound of 
 powdered sugar, and the grated rind of a lemon. 
 Mix all together with the frothed whites of three 
 eggs, and beat until the mass has become firm, 
 when drop from a dessert-spoon upon writing- 
 paper, and mould into cakes about the size of a 
 crown-piece. Bake these of a pale colour in a 
 gentle oven for about eighteen minutes. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 4d. 
 
 MACAROON JUBES. ' 
 
 Blanch, dry, and pound six ounces of sweet 
 almonds, and mix together eight ounces of pow- 
 dered sugar, and a tearspoonful of powdered 
 cinnamon. Stir these with the frothed whites 
 of four eggs to a paste. Butter some baking- 
 tins, spread the paste thinly over, and bake in 
 
 a slow oven. When done to a pale colour, and 
 while still hot, mould them round a stick about 
 an inch and a half in diameter. Remove them 
 when cool to a canister to keep crisp. 
 
 MACAROON PUDDIMG. 
 
 Soften eight ounces of macaroons by pouring 
 a pint of boiling cream over them, and then 
 covering them until cold. Break four eggs, 
 separate the yolks and whites, add to the yolks 
 two table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and a 
 glass of rum or brandy, and beat the whites to 
 a froth. Beat the macaroons smooth with a 
 wooden spoon, mix in the egg-yolks, sugar, and 
 brandy, and, lastly, just before baking, stir in 
 lightly the whites of the eggs. Fill to about 
 half some small cups, and bake in a moderate 
 oven for fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 3s., 
 exclusive of brandy. 
 
 MACAROON PYRAMIDS. 
 
 Make a strong cement by dissolving about 
 two ounces of gum arable and half, a pound of 
 loaf sugar, pounded, in a wine-glassful of water. 
 Stir this over the fire until quite dissolved, when 
 use it hot. Have ready some macaroons, and fix 
 a tin mould where it will stand firmly, smear it 
 well with butter, and use the cement to cover 
 the outside of the mould, which has been but- 
 tered, with the macaroons. Commence from the 
 bottom upwards, always remembering to see 
 each row of macaroons firm and cold before 
 putting on another. Remove from the mould 
 when firmly set, and fill with whipped cream or 
 with crystallised fruits. Probable cost of maca- 
 roons. Is. 8d. per pound. 
 
 MACAROONS. 
 
 (See Almond Cakes ob Macaeoons.) 
 
 MACAROONS, COCOA-NUT. 
 
 (See CocoA-NTJT Macaeoons.) 
 MACAROONS, ITALIAN. 
 
 (See Itallan Macaeoons.) 
 
 MACAROON SOUFFLE. 
 
 Dissolve four ounces of finely-powdered sugar 
 in a, small tea-cupful of cream, add two table- 
 spoonfuls of brandy, and pour it, when" on the 
 point of boiling, over a quarter of a pound of 
 macaroons. Have ready six eggs, well beaten, 
 yolks and whites separately, stir the yolks with 
 an ounce of good fresh butter in bits into the 
 mixture when cool, and when ready to bake, 
 mix the frothed whites of the eggs. Serve hot 
 from the oven before the egg can fall. Time, 
 twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost. Is. 7d. 
 Sufficient for a small dislL 
 
 MACAROONS, PISTACHIO. 
 
 (See Pistachio Macaeoons.) 
 
 MACE. 
 
 This is one of the pleasantest and most usad 
 of spices. It is the outer covering of the nut- 
 meg. Mace is dried previous to its being packed 
 tight in bags. Its general qualities are the same 
 as those of nutmeg ; it has an agreeable aromatic 
 odour, and a hot biting taste. When fresh, mace 
 is blood-red, and somewhat fleshy. It is pre- 
 pared for the market by drying it in the sun for 
 some days, and flattening it. The outer cover- 
 ing of a species of myristica, different from the 
 true nutmeg, but coarse and very inferior, is 
 
MAC 
 
 394 
 
 MAC 
 
 sometimes sold as mace. When partaken of to 
 excess, mace produces determination of blood to 
 tlie hea,d, and occasions intellectual disturbance. 
 
 MACEDOINES. 
 
 A macedoine is a mixture of various kinds of 
 vegetables or fruits, cut into dice or fancy 
 shapes. The name is also applied to a mixture 
 of ripe fruits set in jelly in a mould, or a fruit 
 salad flavoured with liqueurs and syrup. 
 
 MACEDOINE OF FRUITS IN JELLY. 
 
 Make a syrup as in following recipe. Dip the 
 fruits in it, and arrange them in a glass bowl for 
 serving. Over each layer pour a jelly on the 
 point of setting. The top layer should be of 
 fruit, piled rather high, and over it some chopped 
 jelly may be laid,. with some whipped or frozen 
 cream. 
 
 MACEDOINE OF FRUITS IN SYRUP. 
 
 Make a syrup by boiling ten ounces of lump 
 sugar in a pint of water for a few minutes. 
 Flavour with a table-spoonful of brandy and the 
 same of any desired liqueur. The fruits must be 
 chosen from those in season, using a good 
 variety, s;ich as ripe currants, raspberries, 
 cherries, strawberries, slices of melons, and 
 apricots, etc. Let the syrup be quite cold, aild 
 mix it with the fruit in equal measure— a pint 
 and a half of syrup to a pint and a half of mixed 
 fruits. Set on ice until required, and- serve with 
 custard or whipped cream. 
 
 MACEDOINE OF VEGETABLES. 
 
 JBoil two dozen asparagus tops, twelve button 
 onions, half a cauliflower, two turnips, and two 
 carrots, twelve new potatoes cut small, and 
 twenty pods of French beans sliced. Put them 
 all into a stewpan with a pint of bechamel and a 
 little salt and pepper. Make very hot, and serve. 
 macIdoines in cases, with asparagus 
 and macaroni. 
 
 Take about a pound and a half of. fresh cooked 
 vegetables, such as green peas, French beansj 
 young carrots, etc., six to eight ounces of maca- 
 roni, and some asparagus and white sauce. Take 
 some pastry made of potato pulp, flour, b»tter, 
 salt, pepper, and a raw egg; Line some deep 
 patty-pans and bake carefully. The fresh vege- 
 tables (but not the asparagus) are to be heated 
 and put in the cases after a little sauce has been 
 put 'in. The asparagus should be boiled • and 
 arranged in the centre of the macaroni, which 
 should first be merely cooked and coated with 
 sauce. This dish may be varied by using rice 
 or other grain instead of macaroni, and sea-kale 
 in place of asparagus. Probable cost, about=2s. 
 
 MACKEREL. 
 
 The mackerel is one of the most beautiful of 
 fish. It sometimes attains to the length of 
 ■twenty inches, but usually is about fourteen or 
 sixteen inches long, and about two pounds in 
 ■weight. Mackerel is in great demand as an 
 article of food, but to be partaken of in perfec- 
 tion it should be perfectly fresh. No fish spoils 
 more rapidly. The common idea respecting 
 mackerel is, that they are in best condition when 
 fullest of roe ; at that time, however, though not 
 impoverished, they have little flavour. It is in 
 the early part of the season, when the roe is not 
 yet full grown, that mackerel have most flavour. 
 
 In France, and some other patts of Europe, 
 mackerel are often salted. 
 
 MACKEREL (4 la Poulette). 
 
 Cut large mackerel into three pieces, after 
 being emptiied, cleansed, and drained. If there 
 be roes, dry and dredge them, as well as the flsh, 
 with flour. Make a seasoning of finely-chopped 
 onion, parsley, pepper, and salt, scalding the 
 parsley and onions first. Laiy the pieces of fish, 
 but not the heads or tails, into a stewpan; 
 
 HAOKEBEL AND TOMATO SAUCE. 
 
 sprinkle the seasoning equally over each layer, 
 add an ounce, of butter in bits, and a small cup 
 of veal broth, but only enough to prevent the 
 fish sticking to the bottom of the stewpan. 
 Close the lid of the stewpan tightly until the 
 mackerel is done, which will be in about half 
 an hour. Some of the seasoning should be kept 
 for the top, and some bits of butter. Place the 
 fish on a dish, keep it warm before the fire, until 
 the sauce is thickened. Make it boil up again, 
 and add more pepper or salt, if required. Have 
 ready-beaten two yolks of eggs, remove the sauce 
 from the fire, and stir them with half a table- 
 spoonful of vinegar into it. When smooth and 
 thick, pour it over the fish. 
 
 MACKEREL AND TOMATO SAUCE. 
 
 Chop .up finely two small shallots and mix 
 these with an ounce of bread-crumbs and the 
 same of butter, a squeeze of lemon-juice, and 
 pepper and salt to taste. Bone some small 
 mackerel, and fi^U them with, this stuffing. 
 Wrap each in a sheet of buttered paper, bind 
 with tape, and broil for fifteen minutes. Before 
 dishing up remove the paper, and serve with 
 tomato sauce. 
 
 MACKEREL, BAKED. 
 
 Get quite fresh mackerel ; they may be known 
 by their almost silvery brightness. If stale, 
 they are limp in body, and red and dull-looking 
 about the eyes and head. When baked, 
 they should be cleaned, the roes taken out, and 
 the cavity fllled with a forcemeat delicately 
 prepared, as follows. Put into a basin four 
 ounces of bread-crumbs, two ounces of butter 
 broken into bits, half a tea-spoonful of savoury 
 herbs, a little chopped parsley, an anchovy 
 boned and pounded, pepper, salt, and cayenne, 
 and an egg to cement. Onion, in very small 
 c[uantity, and shredded very fine, may be added 
 if the flavour be liked. Fill the fish wHh the 
 forcemeat, lay them neatly in a dish, with pep- 
 per, salt, and siiiall bits of butter. Bake half an 
 hour in » moderate oven, serve with maitre 
 d'hotel sauce or plain melted butter. The roes 
 should be placed in the baking-dish with the fish. 
 
MAC 
 
 395 
 
 MAC 
 
 Probable cost, 2&. Four fish sufficient for six 
 persons. 
 
 MACKEREL, BAKED (another way). 
 
 A quick and simple way of baking mackerel : 
 — Put four or six middle-sized fish, after being 
 washed and well dried, into a baking-dish, back 
 downwards, and rounded so as to make the heads 
 and tails meet; put the roes with them, and 
 sonie flour and butter blended together in the 
 'proportion of half ah ounce of butter and half 
 a tea-spoonful of flour to each fish. Adda little 
 salt and cayenne, a small glassful of port or 
 sherry, and enough chilli vinegar to flavour. 
 Bake with some bits of butter over the top, and 
 a buttered paper pressed tightly down without 
 crushiiig the fish. It is economical to remove 
 thfe heads and a little of the tails of the fish 
 before baking.- 
 
 MACKEREL, BAKED AND STUFFED. 
 
 Take four mackerel, two tea-spoonfuls- of 
 parsley, one tea-spoonful of chopped onion, two 
 ounces of bread-crumbs, half an ounce of suet, 
 one egg, pepper, and salt. Cut the mackerel 
 down the back, take out the backbone, and lay 
 the fish flat on the pastry-board. Make a stuff- 
 ing of the bread-crumbs, suet, parsley, and 
 onion ; flavour with pepper and salt ; bind 
 together with the egg i divide the stuffing into 
 four, and lay a portion on each flsh ; roll up the 
 fish from tail to head, and skewer or tie it in 
 place. Bake for twenty minutes in a, moderate 
 oven. 
 
 MACKEREL, BOILED. 
 
 Wash and clean carefully, after removing the 
 roes. The mackerel is in its greatest perfection 
 when there is little roe. Lay the fish and roes 
 separately into cold water, and to a gallon of 
 water add from three to four ounces of salt and 
 two table-spoonfuls of white vinegar ; when at 
 boilingpoint,, skim, and simmer only untildone. 
 Much depends on the size of the fish. Remove 
 at, once when done, ,or from their great delicacy 
 of skin they will crack if kept in the water, the 
 usual test, when the eyes start and the tail splits, 
 should! be attended to. Serve on a napkin with 
 the roe, and fennel or anchovy sauce in a tureen. 
 Time, about ten minutes after the water boils. 
 Probable cost, 3d. to 4d. each. 
 
 MACKEREL, BROILED. 
 
 Large fresh fish should be procured for broil- 
 ing. Cleanse the fish thoroughly, and dry in a 
 cloth, or hang it up in the air. Open it down 
 the back, rub the inside with a little salt and 
 .cayenne mixed, and smear with clarified butter 
 or good oil. Put it into a. thickly-buttered 
 paper, loosely fastened at each end, and broil 
 over a clear fire, or it may be broiled without the 
 paper, though the former mode renders the fish 
 so cooked mpre delicate, and not so apt to dis- 
 agree with the stomach as when exposed to the 
 fire uncovered. Time, twenty to twenty-five 
 minutes in paper; fifteen to twenty minutes to 
 broil without paper. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. 
 each. 
 
 MACKEREL, BROILED, AND TARRAGON 
 BUTTER. 
 
 Eemove the inside of the fish, without opening 
 it, through the gills and vent. Wash, clean, dry. 
 
 and make a deep incision down the back; lay 
 the fish in a little salad-oil ; keep it well basted 
 for about three-quarters of an hour, but cut off 
 the nose or part of the head and tail before it 
 is steeped in the oil. Broil over a clear fire, and 
 when done, have ready the following mixture, 
 with which fill up the incision. Work together 
 a little butter, pepper, salt, and tarragon-leaves 
 chopped and steeped in vinegar. When 
 ready, serve the mackerel with some of the 
 butter spread over it on a hot dish. Time, from 
 ten to fifteen minutes to broil. Probable cost, 
 4d. to 6d. each. 
 
 MACKEREL, CAVEACH. 
 
 Divide large fresh fish, after being well 
 cleansed and dried in a cloth, into five pieces, 
 and rub each piece with spice made as follows. 
 Pound an ounce of black pepper and six blades 
 of mace, mix them when pounded with two 
 ounces of salt, and half an ounce of grated nut- 
 meg. Use all the above spices for six fish, rub- 
 bing well in, that every piece may be thoroughly 
 seasoned with spice, then fry in oil. Drain, and 
 put the fish neatly into a jar, which fill with good 
 vinegar, adding clarified butter or oil to exclude 
 the air. Tie down closely. Mackerel so pre- 
 pared will keep for six months. . Time, ten 
 minutes to fry. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. each. 
 
 MACKEREL, FILLETS OF. 
 
 Put a tea-cupful of stock and bechamel sauce 
 mixed into a stewpan. AdiJ a lump of butter, 
 about an ounce, some chopped parsley pre- 
 viously scalded, salt, and cayenne. Cut two fine 
 fresh mackeref into fillets, having first well 
 cleansed them. Put the fillets into the sauce, 
 and simmer over a slow fire until done, when 
 place them on a hot dish before the fire. Thicken 
 the liquor with a little fiour, boil it up, and pour 
 it over the fillets, with a squeeze of lemon-juice, 
 if liked. Time to simmer, twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost. Is.- 7d. 
 
 MACKEREL, FILLETS OF, STEWED (another way). 
 Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, 
 with nearly a dessert-spoonful of flour, and mix 
 them together until smooth. Add half the rind 
 of a lemon, a tea-spoonful of soy, a salt-spoonful 
 of pounded mace, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and 
 a little stock or water. Into this sauce place 
 fillets from two fresh mackerel. Shake the pan 
 over ,the fire to get the fish equally covered with 
 the sauce, turning them in about eight or ten 
 minutes. When they are done enough', remove 
 the fillets to a hot dish, boil up the sauce with 
 a small wine-glassful of port, and pour it hot 
 over the fish. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. exclusive of wine. Suf- 
 ficient for three persons. 
 
 MACKEREL, FRICASSEED. 
 
 Pound a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley with 
 a small quantity of shallot, an ounce of butter, 
 a table-spoonful of anchovy essence, two table- 
 spoonfuls of ketchup, and an ounce of flour. 
 Gradually stir this into a pint of good brown 
 gravy, stirring it till it almost boils. Add a 
 glass of port, lay in it the fillets of two mackerel, 
 and stew for fifteen ;ininutes. Lift out the fillets 
 and lay them on a hot dish. Add to the gravy 
 a tea-spoonful of French mustard and a dessert- 
 spoonful of ketchup, and when just on boiling 
 
MAC 
 
 396 
 
 MAD 
 
 point pour over the fillets. Sprinkle with Par- 
 mesan cheese, and serve. 
 
 MACKEREL, FRIED, FRENCH. 
 
 Bone three fine mackerel, removing the heads 
 and tails, dry them well in a cloth, or rub a 
 little flour into them, so as to remove all mois- 
 ture, sprinkle with pepper and salt, and fry 
 lightly in hot dripping to cover them. They 
 should be of a fine golden colour, and well 
 drained. Place them on a dish, and either pour 
 the following sauce over them, or serve in a 
 tureen. Stew the bones of the fish in half a 
 pint of stock, add a thickening of butter and 
 browned flour, say, one ounce of butter and a 
 tea-spoonful of flour, well worked up together, 
 the juice of a lemon, and a little browning to 
 colour it. Or, if preferred, serve the fish with 
 mustard-sauce, in which a table-spoonful of 
 some good store sauce, such as Beading, Worces- 
 ter, or Harvey, has been stirred. Time, about 
 fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. each. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 MACKEREL, PICKLED. 
 
 Boil six mackerel in salt and water; when 
 done, take them up, and lay them in a deep 
 earthenware dish. Add three-quarters of a pint 
 of vinegar, a quarter of an ounce of whole black 
 pepper, and three bay-leaves to the liquor the 
 fish was cooked in. Let it boil for seven or eight 
 minutes, and when quite cold, pour it over the 
 mackerel, cover down tightly, and in twenty- 
 four hours the fish will be ready for use. Time, 
 fifteen to twenty minutes to boil. Probable cost, 
 2s. 8d. 
 
 MACKEREL PIE. 
 
 Clean three middling-sized mackerel, take out 
 the melts and roes, which use in the composition 
 of a forcemeat to stuff the fish. Add bread- 
 crumbs, chopped parsley, a small bit of onion, 
 if liked, mace, peppeir, salt, a little butter, and 
 an egg or two to cement the whole. Sew xip the 
 fish neatly, and lay them into an ordinary oval 
 flat dish, with an edging of good mashed 
 potatoes or a puff crust. Balls of forcemeat will 
 enrich the dish, and some rich sauce may be 
 poured over the fish when baked ; but both force- 
 meat and sauce should be delicately prepared. 
 Cover with bread-crumbs, and put butter, in 
 bits, over the fish. Time, half an hour, or more. 
 Probable cost, 4d. each. Sufficient for four 
 persons. 
 
 MACKEREL, POTTED. 
 
 Choose fresh fish of a moderate size. Cut off 
 the heads and tails, remove the bones, take out 
 the dark brown bitter portion near the heads, 
 and divide the flesh into convenient-sized pieces. 
 Lay these in a jar, season with pepper and salt, 
 cover with vinegar, and put shallots and bay- 
 leaves on the top, one of each for four fish. Cover 
 closely and bake gently for two hours. Serve 
 cold. 
 
 MACKEREL ROE, SAUCE OF. 
 
 Get roes from the male fish. Boil two or three 
 for ten minutes in water, then pound them with 
 the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs. Have 
 ready some fennel sauce, or parsley and butter, 
 into which stir the mackerel roe, adding a Uttle 
 walnut ketchup, pepper, salt, and vinegar, if 
 
 required. The butter must be thin enough to 
 allow of the thickening quality of the roes and 
 egg-yolks. Time, ten minutes to boil. 
 
 MACKEREL SAUCE, GOOSEBERRY. 
 
 (See GooSEBEBET Sauce fob Mackebel.) 
 MACKEREL SAUCE, OR FENNEL SAUCE. 
 
 Pick fennel from the stalks, and boil it for a 
 minute or two in boiling salted water, then chop 
 it fine. Mix and blend well two dessert-spoon- 
 fuls of baked flour with nearly a quarter of a 
 pound of butter, put it into a saucepan with 
 half a pint of boiling water, and stir until thick, 
 add two dessert-spoonfuls of fennel, and serve 
 hot in a. tiireen. Mackerel roes (soft ones) 
 boiled and bruised well with yolk of hard-boiled 
 egg may be added to the sauce, stirred in with 
 the fennel. Time, ten minutes to simmer but- 
 ter. Sufficient for a tureen. 
 
 MACKEREL, SOUSED. 
 
 Boil, without breaking, two or three middling- 
 sized mackerel, remove the bones, and split the 
 fish carefully down the back. Simmer gently 
 in a pint of vinegar and water mixed, in equal 
 quantities, a bay-leaf, half a dozen whole 
 peppers, two Jamaica peppers, a pinch of 
 cayenne, and a little salt. Pour this liquor when 
 cold over the fish ; if put in a deep dish they will 
 be covered with it, and should not be served 
 until they have steeped some hours. Serve with 
 fennel as a garnish, on a flat dish. Time, fifteen 
 minutes to boil. Simmer spice for five minutes. 
 
 MACKEREL, WITH FINE HERBS. 
 
 Eub butter over a baking-tin, and cover the 
 bottom with a mince of fine herbs, about a dozen 
 small mushrooms, four shallots, and a little 
 parsley, which should be first fried and seasoned 
 with pepper and salt. Lay the fish, neatly 
 trimmed, on the herbs, and cover with fine 
 bread-crumbs ; moisten with a little good 
 gravy, or white wine, and put lastly some 
 bits of butter over the crumbs. Bake in a 
 gentle oven, and serve browned with a sala- 
 mander; squeeze a little lemon-juice over. 
 Time, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 
 4d. to 6d. each. Two mackerel will be sufficient 
 for three persons. 
 
 MACKEREL, WITH WINE, STEWED. 
 
 Stew three small mackerel or two large ones 
 in a sauce made in the following manner. Dis- 
 solve a piece of butter about the size of an egg, 
 in an enamelled stewpan; when melted stir in 
 a tea-spoonful of flour, a salt-spoonful of salt, a 
 pinch of cayenne, a blade of mace, pounded, and, 
 lastly, add little by little three glassfuls of Bur- 
 gundy. Simmer the fish for twenty minutes or 
 less, according to size, arrange them neatly on 
 a dish, stir a, spoonful of French mustard into 
 the gravy, pour this over the fish, and serve 
 very hot. Probable cost, from 4d. to 6d. each. 
 Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 MADEIRA BUNS. 
 
 Put into half a pound of flour rather more 
 than a quarter of a pound of butter, add three 
 ounces of sifted sugar, the grated rind of half 
 a lemon, a small tea-spoonful of powdered 
 ginger, half an ounce of caraway-seeds, a little 
 nutmeg, and a pinch of salt ; stir well together, 
 and add two eggs well beaten, and half a wine- 
 
MAD 
 
 397 
 
 MAG 
 
 glassful of sherry. Bake quickly in patty-pans 
 for about fifteen minutes. The above ingre- 
 dients are sufficient for eight large buns. Prob- 
 able cost, 8d. 
 
 MADEIRA CAKE. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound each of butter and 
 lard, and cream it with half a pound of sugar ; 
 add four eggs, and three or four table-spoonfuls 
 of milk beaten » little together, and mix well. 
 Sift one pound of flour and a tea^spoonful of 
 baking-powder, and stir in. Add a table-spoon- 
 ful of sherry or Madeira. Bake in a papered 
 cake-tin, leaving room for rising, for about an 
 hour and a half, and lay a couple of strips of 
 peel on top. Probable cost, 3s. 
 
 MADEIRA PUDDING. 
 
 The beauty of this pudding depends on con- 
 trasting well the colours of the jams. Make a 
 good butter or suet crust ; roll it out thinly, cut 
 into rounds — the size of the tin in which you in- 
 tend to boil the pudding — several pieces of 
 crust; put at the bottom of the tin a layer of 
 crust, then one of light-coloured jam — say green- 
 gage — then another layer of crust, then a red 
 jam, and so on until the tin is filled. Boil the 
 pudding in a. cloth for two hours and a half, 
 turn it out very carefully, and before serving 
 sift a little white sugar over it. The tin should 
 have a loose bottom, so that the pudding can 
 slip out easily. It must be well buttered first. 
 
 MADEIRA SAUCE. 
 
 Mix one gill of Madeira with three gills of 
 brown sauce; add a few drops of cayenne 
 vinegar, a pinch of salt and sugar, and a 
 table-spoonful or two of clear brown stock or 
 gravy. Boil up and skim, and serve hot. Half 
 an ounce of glaze improves the sauce. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 MADEIRA SAUCE (another way). 
 . Mince one onion very finely, and place in a 
 stewpan with a pinch of celery-seed, two ounces 
 of butter, two ounces of lean ham or bacon, a 
 few savoury herbs, and a sprig of parsley. Cook 
 until light brown, then add a table-spoonful of 
 lemon-juice and two glasses of good Madeira. 
 Boil till reduced, then add a little brown gravy 
 and a lump of sugar, and strain. 
 
 MADEIRA SAUCE, WITH CHESTNUTS. 
 
 Take two table-spoonfuls of chestnut flour, i.e. 
 chestnuts that have been rubbed through a 
 sieve, add one ounce of butter, half a tea^spoon- 
 ful of salt, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper, 
 and enough good brown stock to reduce it to 
 the consistency of ordinary brown sauce, flavour 
 with a squeeze of lemon and a dash of nutmeg, 
 and a glass of cooking sherry or Madeira. Pour 
 this sauce round the vegetable. 
 
 MADEIRA WINE JELLY. 
 
 ThiB very agreeable and excellent jelly takes 
 its name from the wine used. The stock for it 
 is made from calves' feet, and precisely in the 
 same manner as the ordinary calf's- foot jelly 
 (see Cau's Foot Jelly).- To a quart of the 
 jelly, clarified, add half a pint or more of 
 Madeira, and a glass of brandy; but as this 
 will reduce the strength, a little isinglass, also 
 clarified, say about half an ounce, will give it 
 the necessary firmness. Time, one hour. 
 
 MADELEINE CAKES. 
 
 To one table-spoonful of flour add four of 
 cream and three yolks of eggs, with two table- 
 spoonfuls of pounded sugar. Put the mixture on 
 a slow fire, and let it just come to a boil, then 
 set aside to cool. Have ready some puff-paste 
 rolled as thin as half-a-crown. Cut in half, and 
 on one half spread the above preparation rather 
 thinly, then cover with the other half. Glaze 
 it with egg spread with a brush; bake in 
 a quick oven, and when done cut it into 
 equal-sized pieces the shape of an ordinary 
 spongecake. Sift coarsely-powdered sugar over 
 them, and glaze with a salamander or red- 
 hot shovel, so that they may look candied 
 on top. 
 
 MADONNA PUDDING. 
 
 Put three-quarters of a pound of bread-crumbs 
 into a basin with eight ounces of finely-shredded 
 suet, and the same weight of good powdered 
 sugar. Beat up two eggs with a large table- 
 spoonful of brandy, add these, with the grated 
 rind of a large lemon, to the ingredients in the 
 basin. Beat the mixture until it i-s smooth, 
 with a wooden spoon. If labour be not spared 
 in this respect, the pudding will be a success. 
 Fill a buttered mould, tie a floured cloth over, 
 plunge into boiling water, and boil four hours. 
 Probable cost, about Is. 2d. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. 
 
 MAGDALEN CAKE. 
 
 Beat well ten fresh eggs, and again beat 
 with them eight ounces of finely-powdered 
 sugar. Beat six ounces of butter to a cream, 
 and mix the eggs very gradually with it ; 
 lastly, add, lightly and at intervals, steadily 
 stirring the mixture, eight ounces of fine 
 flour, well dried. Blanch and slice thinly 
 two ounces of sweet almonds, and the same of 
 candied orange-peel. Stir the orange-peel into 
 the mass, but scatter the almonds over the in- 
 side of a buttered cake-tin, which fill with the 
 mixture, putting more almonds over the top. 
 The cake should be put into the oven quickly. 
 Time, about one hour to bake ; half an hour to 
 beat the mixture. Probable cost, 2s. 
 
 MAGNUM BONUM, OR OTHER LARGE PLUMS, 
 COMPdTE OF. 
 
 Take off the stalks, and wipe the fruit. Sim- 
 mer a pound of the plums in a syrup, made with 
 six ounces of sugar dissolved in half a pint of 
 water, and according to the variety and acidity 
 of fruit, add more sugar if required. Stew very 
 gently for twenty minutes. Time, ten minutes 
 to boil the syrup. 
 
 MAGNUM BONUM PLUM JAM. 
 
 The magnum bonum is the largest of our 
 plums, and is excellent for jam and for other 
 purposes. Choose the fruit when fully ripe. 
 Take off the skins, remove the stones, and boil 
 the plums gently for forty minutes, keeping 
 them well stirred all the time to prevent their 
 burning; add three pounds of sugar in lumps 
 for every four pounds of fruit, and boil ten 
 minutes longer. Three or four minutes before 
 the jam is taken from the fire, add a quarter of 
 the kernels blanched and sliced. Probable cost 
 of plums, 6d. per dozen. 
 
MAG 
 
 398 
 
 MAI 
 
 MAGNUM BONUM PLUMS, TO PRESERVE. 
 
 Take fine whole fruit, ripe and , without 
 bruise; peel and open them only just enough 
 to extract the stones; handle them lightly, so 
 that the juice may not be drawn and lost. 
 Weigh the plums, and strew over each pound 
 of fruit, placed on a flat dish,- one pound of 
 good powdered sugar, and cover them for twelve 
 hours. Put them into a preserving-pan with 
 the -sugar; boil very gently (or < the fruit will 
 shrivel) for about half . an hour. If the plums 
 look clear, lift them out carefully with a spoon 
 and put them into jars. Crush the stones, 
 blanch and split the kernels, put some with the 
 syrup (the quantity must depend on taste), but 
 they are generally thought to impart a delioious 
 flavour to the preserve; boil the syrup rapidly 
 until a little put upon a plate will set, then pour 
 it over the plums in the jars. This recipe will 
 serve for large plums in general and for. apricots. 
 
 MAGNUM BONUM PLUMS, TO PRESERVE 
 
 (another way.) 
 (jScf Plums, Magnum Bonum.) 
 
 MAIDS OF HONOUR. 
 
 Delicious cheesecakes so called are to be had 
 in perfection - at Eichmond-on-Thames. We 
 think the following recipe genuine. Beat two 
 eggs, and mix them with a quart of new milk; 
 add the eggs and milk to a quart of boiling 
 water in a saucepan ; pour in lemon-juice, and 
 remove the curd, as it rises, to a sieve to drain ; 
 mix the curd with the yolks of four eggs, pre- 
 viously well beaten, a large cupful of clotted 
 cream, the rind of a lemon, rubbed off on sugar, 
 a little pounded cinnamon, a quarter of a nut- 
 meg, grated, six ounces of currants, well washed 
 and dried, and a glass of brandy. Mix well, 
 and bake in patty-pans, buttered and lined with 
 a light French puff-paste. Time, about twenty 
 minutes to bake. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Suf- 
 ficient for twenty-four cheesecakes. 
 
 MAIDS OF HONOUR (another way). 
 
 Blanch, peel,- and dry two ounces of Jordan 
 almonds, put them in a mortar with four ounces 
 of castor sugar, and pound till fine; add the 
 yolks of two eggs, one at a time ; mix in two 
 table-spoonfuls of cream, a table-spoonful of 
 orange-flour water, and half an ounce of Paisley 
 flour. Line some tartlet-moulds with puff- 
 paste, fill with the mixture, and bake ih a 
 moderate oven. 
 
 MAINTENON CUTLETS (Gouffe's method). 
 
 Take some double cutlets, each with two 
 bones, and remove one of the bones from 
 each. Split open without separating at the 
 top. Spread a little D'Uxelles sauce in- 
 side, refold them, then broil four minutes on 
 each side. Spread a little D'TTxelles on a dish, 
 lay the cutlets on this, and pour D'TJxelles 
 sauce over. Place in a hot oven for four min- 
 utes, and serve. D'Uxelles may be made by 
 frying equal quantities of chopped mushroom, 
 shallot, parsley; and lean ham in ■ butter' for 
 five minutes. D'TJxelleB sauce is this prepara- 
 tion with good brown sauce stirred into it. 
 
 MaItRE D'HOTEL BUTTER. 
 
 Knead together (on a plate and with the 
 point of a knife) equal quantities of chopped 
 
 parsley and fresh butter. Add pepper, salt, 
 and a little lemon-juice. Keep in a cool place. 
 When a dish is said to be a la Maitre d'Hotel it 
 is generally served with this butter. 
 
 MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE. 
 
 Melt two ounces of fresh butter in a small 
 enamelled Saucepan and stir to it, by degrees, 
 two tea-spoonfuls of flour; continue stirring 
 for five or ten minutes, until the butter and 
 flour are well blended, when add, also by de- 
 grees, a quarter of a pint of boiling cream and 
 a quarter of a pint of good veal stock, also 
 boiling ; add a few spbonfuls of each at a time, 
 and stir well, allowing the sauce to simmer a 
 minute or two between each addition. When 
 perfectly smooth, put in the strained juice tjf a 
 lemon, or, if preferred, a table-spoonful of 
 chilli vinegfar, a little pepper, or cayenne, or a 
 pinch of salt, and a table-spoonful of chopped 
 parsley. The yplks of two eggs are a great im- 
 provement to this sauce, and are almost neces- 
 sary when it is served with fish; but in that 
 case only half the quantity of flour should be 
 used, as the eggs help to thicken. For the 
 plainer way, take; half a pint of milk, thicken 
 it with one ounce of butter and a heaped tea- 
 spoonful of flour well worked together, and 
 flavour with lemon-juice,, pepper, and salt. 
 Add a, table-spoonful of scalded and chopped 
 parsley. The parsley and lemon-juice should 
 be added when the pan is off the fire. Maitre 
 d'Hotel sauce may be simply made thus. -Beat 
 till smooth over the fire one ounce of butter, and 
 half an ounce of. flour. Add a third of a pint of 
 water, stir and boil, then add two table-spoon- 
 fuls of cream or milk. Take the pan off the fire, 
 and add parsley, lemon-jxiice, pepper, and salt. 
 
 MAIZE, OR INDIAN CORN. 
 
 The objection to maize generally is that it re- 
 quires a great amount of cooking to soften it, 
 and, therefore, gives considerable trouble, the 
 consequence being that an excellent and palat- 
 able food is very much neglected. Broken or 
 split maize is known as hominy, and certainly 
 does require rather prolonged stewing. Once, 
 however, it is properly cooked, and tasted with 
 the adjuncts of milk and eugar or jam or 
 treacle, it is generally approved. Ground maize 
 is much more irianageable, and appears in many 
 forms. In the United States, prepared very 
 much as oatmeal is for porridge, it is known 
 as mush. In Italy it is' called polenta and 
 polentina, and is a very favourite dish. Corn- 
 flour, marzina, etc., are all preparations of 
 maize starch, and are popular because they can 
 be cooked easily. Polenta, which is the entire 
 yellow meal of maize, is a much more substan- 
 tial and nourishing fare, and deserves' to be 
 better known. Like rice or semolina, it may be 
 cooked either as a sweet or a savoury. A pud- 
 ding of polenta made with milk, eggs, and 
 sugar, with plenty of raisins in it, well boiled, 
 and then baked, is one children relish amaz- 
 ingly, and it is extremely good for them. 
 Polenta cooked somewhat in the fashion of a 
 Yorkshire pudding and served with grated 
 cheese makes a fine savoury. The famous 
 Johnny-cake of the States is made with fine 
 polenta. Upon one part of this is poured two 
 
MAJ 
 
 399 
 
 MAN 
 
 parts of boiling water. The meal and water 
 are well mixed, made into a thin cake, baked 
 in a quick oven, and eaten hot with treacle. , 
 
 MAJESTY BISCUITS. > 
 
 Blanch and pound well tw-o ounces of bitter 
 and two ounces of sweet almonds. Eub into a 
 pound of flour the same quiwitity of butter, add 
 one pound of crushed;- lumip sugar, and the 
 pounded almonds, and moisten -the whole with 
 one egg. Drop the mixture on a buttered tin; 
 in pieces not larger than a Barcelona nut, and 
 bake in a slow oven until the biscuits . are of a 
 pale yellow colour. When taken out of the 
 oven they will be soft, but will harden and be 
 quite crisp when cold. They must then be put 
 into a tin canister, and will keep for months. 
 Time, ten minutes to bake. Probable cost, 
 lOd. a pound. The above ingredients are suf- 
 ficient to make three pounds of biscuits. 
 
 MALABAR CURRY. 
 
 Mix together a table-apoonful of curry- 
 powder and half that quantity of flour; cut a 
 fowl into neat pieces, and cover these with the 
 mixture. Shred .an onion, and brown it in a, 
 stewpan with a good lump of butter ; put the 
 pieces of fowl into the same butter, add more if 
 necessary, and when they h^ye, , nearly ,ab,sorbfl(i 
 the butter, moisten with a "cup of good white 
 stock or broth, and' shake tlie pan for a minute 
 or two, then pour in the remainder of a pint, 
 and stew until done. Part of a rasped cocoa- 
 nut will greatly improve the curry; it helps also 
 to thicken it. Grate it just before it is wanted, 
 and mix it well into the curry ,by shaking the 
 pan over the fire. Just beforei serving, flavour 
 with half the juice of a lemon and half , a wine- 
 glassful of vinegar. Season with salt, and send 
 plain boiled rice to table in a separate dish. 
 Serve hot. Time, three-quarters of an hour. 
 Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 MALMSEY. 
 
 The genuine .malmsey; wines -lof? commerce 
 ■possess a luscious, sweetness,, and a most pecu- 
 liar bouquet. They are mostly, the produce of^ 
 Sardinia, Sicily, Provence,. • TenirifEe, . the 
 Madeiras, the Azores, and, the Lipari, Isles. 
 Malmsey wine is made from grapes grown on 
 rooky ground, and exposed to the full light and 
 heat of the sun; the fruit is allowed to hang 
 on the vines for a month longer than ,if re- 
 quired for making, dry wines, by which time it 
 is partially withered. 
 
 MALT, EXTRACT OF. 
 
 Extract of malt is much used in invalid 
 cookery. The value of malt as a digestive 
 agent is well established, it imparts no un- 
 pleasant flavour to the dish, and it is eco- 
 nomical in use. It.may be added.to gruels, and 
 to all sorts of farinaceous or cereal puddings, 
 care being taken that the food is thoroughly 
 cooked before the. malt is added. It is also 
 used as a sweetener in cases,, where sugar dis^, 
 agrees with the patient. , It does not set ; up 
 flatulency as sugar does, and it is useful, in 
 wasting diseases. 
 
 MALVERN APPLE PUDDING. 
 
 To a pound of flnely-gratfi^ l^read-crumbs and 
 an equal -weight of good russet apples-^peeled. 
 
 cored, and chopped small-^-add four ounces of 
 moist sugar, a tea-spoonful of grated lemon- 
 peel, or the rind of half a lenjon, minced as 
 small as possible, and; four well-beaten eggs.. 
 Mix thoroughly with a wooden spoon, and throw 
 in from time to time, while beating the mix- 
 ture, a pound and a half, or more, of clean dry 
 currants, and a glass of brandy. Boil in a 
 flpvired cloth, which should be tied quite tight, 
 without any space being left for swelling. Time, 
 foiit hours to boil. Probable cost. Is.- 6d. Suf- 
 ficient for two puddings. 
 
 MALVERN PUDDING. 
 
 Put two dessert-spoonfuls of Indian corn- 
 flour into a basin, and mix with a little cold 
 milk, say about two table-spoonfuls. Boil to- 
 gether four ounces of good loaf sugar and half 
 a. pint of new milk. Stir it into the, basin while 
 boiling hot, adding, When' the heat has gone off 
 a' little, three well-beaten ' eggs, with 'three 
 table-spoonfuls of good cream, which should be 
 thick, and a little nutmeg. If cfeam be not at' 
 hand, use more eggs. Pour some of this cus- 
 tard into a buttered dish, and have ready boiled 
 some well-flavoured apples, sweetened with half 
 their weight of good loaf sugar, and made pleas- 
 ant to the' taste with the grated rind and juice 
 of a lemon. Put a layer of this' on the cUstard, 
 and flU up alternately with apples and custard. 
 Bake in a brisk oven. Time, twenty to twenty- 
 five minutes. The apple and custaird will be 
 very good served cold. 
 
 MANCHESTER PUDDING. 
 
 Boil three table-spoonfuls of ^^rated bread- 
 crumbs in. half a pint of milk, which has been 
 previously flavoured wi;th vanilla or lemon-peel, 
 for three or four minutes ; add to it when off 
 the boil the yolks of two eggs, a piece of butter 
 the size of an egg, eight lumps of sugar, and 
 half a gill of brandy. Place a layer of any rich 
 jam (greengage, strawberry, or apricot) at the 
 bottom of a pie-ijish, pour in the mixture when 
 cold, ornament the' edge of the dish with a, 
 border of puff-paste, and bake for an hour. 
 This pudding may be eaten either hot or cold ; 
 if hot, whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff 
 froth with' a little sugar, spread it' over the top 
 of the pudding, and return it to the oven for 
 five minutes to set. If to be eaten cold, merely 
 sift some powdered sugar over it and serve. 
 Probable cost, 1^ 4d. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. ' 
 
 MANDARIN PUDDING. 
 
 Mix a quarter of a pound of fine bread- 
 crumbs, a quarter of a pound of well-chopped 
 suet, a quarter of. a pound of Jamaica preserved 
 green ginger, with two eggs and two table- 
 spoonfuls of the syrup of the ginger. Pour the 
 mixture into a buttered mould or basin; and 
 steam for four hours. Probable cost. Is. ■> Suf- 
 ficient for -five or six persons. 
 
 MANDRAM SAUCE. 
 
 Mince two shallots or a middle-sized onion 
 ■ as finely as possible. Chop or slice a cucumber, 
 and let' the vegetables stand in water for a few 
 minutes ; then drain them dry. Sprinkle lightly 
 with, salt, and add the cucumber, a small pinch 
 of cayenne, and part of a capsicum, sliced, with 
 
MAN 
 
 400 
 
 MAR 
 
 a table-spoonful of vinegar, and two of white 
 wine. If the cucumber be sliced, the onion 
 should be chopped, and vice versd. Time, five 
 minutes to drain the cucumber. 
 
 MANGO. 
 
 Of all the tropical fruits, the mango is one of 
 the most grateful to Europeans. In form it 
 is like a short, thick cucumber. The skin of 
 the fruit is thick, and the interior consists of a 
 pulp, which melts in the mouth with cooling 
 sweetness. 
 MANGO CHUTNEY. 
 
 Peel, core, and quarter six pounds of sour 
 apples, and boil, them in nearly two pints of 
 vinegar; pound eight ounces of onions, about 
 ten or twelve ounces of ginger, and four ounces 
 of garlic together; add these to the apples and 
 vinegar, with twelve ounces each of sugar 
 (which should be first dissolved), stoned raisins, 
 and mustard-seed; this last should be washed 
 in vinegar, and dried in the sun, before being 
 added. Mix well in a large bowl, and put 
 in, while mixing, another pint of vinegar, and 
 four ounces of dried chillies. Bottle at once 
 closely and tie bladder over the cork. Prob- 
 able cost, 3s. 6d. for this quantity. 
 
 MANGOES, PICKLED. 
 
 Take a melon of the sort generally used for 
 pickling, first seeing that it is not quite ripe; 
 cut off a slice from the top, and carefully pick 
 out all the seeds. Shred finely one ounce of 
 garlic; mix it with two ounces of mustard-seed, 
 and the seeds of the melon. Now put this 
 back as a stuffing, place the top on, and bind 
 it down. Boil, in two quarts of best vinegar, 
 one ounce of Jamaica peppers, one ounce of 
 whole allspice, one ounce of bruised ginger, and 
 a tea-spoonful of salt; when boiling pour it 
 over the melon. The same vinegar must be 
 put into a saucepan, boiled up again, and 
 thrown over the melon for three successive days, 
 or more if possible ; then tie down with bladder 
 to exclude the air. 
 
 MANSFIELD PUDDING. 
 
 Chop three ounces of suet; add to it one 
 table-spoonful of flour, four table-spoonfuls of 
 currants, a pinch of nutmeg, two ounces of 
 moist sugar, the soft part of a French roll, 
 which has been previously soaked in half a pint 
 of boiling cream or milk, and well beaten, a 
 table-spoonful of brandy, a table-spoonful of 
 cream, and two eggs. Beat the pudding with a 
 fork for four or five minutes, and put it into a 
 buttered dish, or into a china mould, if pre- 
 ferred. 'Kme to bake in a moderate oven, three- 
 quarters of an hour. Probable cost, lOd. Suf- 
 ficient for three or four persons. 
 
 MANX CAKE. 
 
 Rub off the peel from half a large lemon on 
 lumps of sugar; ascertain the weight of sugar, 
 and add as much more of pounded sugar as will 
 make eight ounces in all. Mix the pounded 
 sugar with eight ounces of rice-flour. Beat 
 eight eggs until they are free from stringiness ; 
 dissolve the lumps of sugar in the beaten eggs, 
 and mix them gfradually with the flour. When 
 these ingredients are well beaten together, bake 
 in a buttered tin. Time, thirty minutes to 
 
 bake; to beat the eggs, twenty-five to thirty 
 minutes. Probable cost. Is. 2d. for this quantity. 
 
 MAPLE. 
 
 The sugar-maple is a species of maple not 
 unlike the sycamore. It abounds in the north- 
 ern districts of the United States and in the 
 British North American possessions. Large 
 quantities of sugar are made from it, but 
 almost solely for domestic use. A single tree 
 yields from two to six pounds of sugar in » 
 season. 
 
 MARASCHINO BAVAROISE. 
 
 Put one ounce of isinglass, four ounces of 
 sugar, the strained juice of two lemons, and a 
 pint of water into an enamelled saucepan; 
 bring to the boil, and let it simmer for ten 
 minutes, then strain it into a basin ; add three 
 table-spoonfuls of maraschino and a dessert- 
 spoonful of brandy, and set it aside to cool. 
 When just becoming a light jelly, whip half a 
 pint of cream to a stiff froth, and add the jelly 
 spoonful by spoonful to it, beating all the 
 time. Continue beating for about ten minutes, 
 till it becomes very thick, then pour into a 
 well-wetted mould, and set aside in a cool place 
 for some houi-s. 
 
 MARASCHINO CALF'S FOOT JELLY 
 
 (•See Caxp's Foot Jellt, Maraschino.) 
 
 MARASCHINO ICE CREAM. 
 
 Mix one gill of maraschino with a pint and a 
 half of cream and six ounces of sifted sugar. 
 Whip the cream, then freeze. The above quan- 
 tities are sufficient for one quart. Time, ac- 
 cording to the mode of freezing. 
 
 MARASCHINO JELLY. 
 
 Squeeze the juice from an orange, lemon, and 
 peach. Strain and add it, with a table-spoon- 
 ful of orange-flower water, to twelve ounces of 
 fine sugar, on which the rind of part of a lemon 
 has been rubbed off. Dissolve the sugar with a 
 wine-glassful of water, and boil until it is re- 
 duced to a rich syrup, when add it to a pint and 
 a half of good strong calf's foot stock, half a 
 pint of maraschino, and the frothed whites and 
 crushed shells of eight eggs. Simmer for a few 
 minutes, then pass the liquid through the usual 
 jelly-bag until quite clear. While in a fluid 
 state, but cool, take some fine rich-coloured 
 strawberries, previously freed from their stems, 
 throw them in, and mould the jelly. The kernel 
 of the peach, crushed, or a bitter almond, may 
 be simmered with the jelly. Time to simmer, 
 ten to fifteen minutes. Sufficient for two moulds. 
 
 MARASCHINO SYRUP. 
 
 Strain the juice of a large sweet orange, and 
 pour it, with a wine-glassful of water, over 
 three ounces of sugar; boil it to a rather stiff, 
 bright syrup, and skim, adding a quarter of 
 an ounce of blanched bitter almonds and a 
 small quantity of lemon-rind, or the peel of a 
 quarter of a lemon may be rubbed off on lumps 
 of sugar. When clear and thick, strain, and 
 serve with a wine-glassful of maraschino stirred 
 into it. 
 
 MARBLE JELLY. 
 
 Prepare for carrying out this recipe a clear, 
 colourless jelly, and oil well a mould, which 
 
MAR 
 
 401 
 
 MAR 
 
 nearly fill with rough lumps of bright-coloured 
 jelly of varied sizes. Arrange the lumps 
 like rock-work, and tastefully as to colour. 
 Orange, strawberry, and apple jelly do well 
 for this. Euu the colourless jelly, when 
 cool, but in a liquefied state, into the mould, 
 and when Bet, turn out. We give the recipe for 
 SiiiVEB jBLiiT, which is the one we would re- 
 commend, as being without colour. Eub off 
 the essence from the rind of two lemons upon 
 lumps of sugar. Beat the whites of six eggs to 
 a froth, and crush the shells. Simmer over the 
 fire an ounce and a half of the best isinglass, 
 dissolved in » pint of water, adding the sugar, 
 eggs, etc., and half a pint of lemon-juice, 
 strained. When the jelly has simmered for a 
 few minutes, pour in a pint of maraschino, and 
 simmer a few minutes longer, when it must be 
 allowed to stand, without being disturbed, be- 
 fore it is passed through the jelly-bag. If not 
 clear the first time, return it to the bag — it 
 should in the end be like crystal. From ten to 
 twelve ounces of sugar will be required to 
 sweeten this jelly. 
 MARCHIONESS PUDDING. 
 
 Beat the whites of six eggs to a stiff froth, 
 and eight ounces of fresh butter to a, cream. 
 Add to the creamed butter eight ounces of 
 finely-powdered loaf sugar and the same weight 
 of grated cocoa-nut. Stir in the eggs, and fill a 
 well-buttered tin mould. Bake in a quick oven. 
 This pudding is to be eaten hot or cold. Or, 
 line the mould with a rich paste, made as fol- 
 lows. Eub into four ounces of fresh butter, 
 turned to cream, a quarter of a pound of fine 
 flour. Mix an ounce of powdered sugar and the 
 same weight of rice-flour, add them to the 
 butter and flour, and moisten to a paste with 
 two well-beaten eggs. Work all together well, 
 line the tin mould, put the mixture in, and 
 bake. Time, without paste, twenty minutes; 
 with paste, one hour or more. Suflicient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 MARCHPANE. 
 
 {See Massepain.) 
 MARINADE. 
 
 A marinade is a sort of flavoured pickle in 
 which fish and meat are soaked for a while be- 
 fore being cooked. Sometimes the liquor and 
 seasoning are boiled together, and allowed to 
 go cold before being used. The marinade can 
 then be employed again and again, if it be 
 boiled occasionally. When a small quantity 
 only is required, the marinade is used raw. 
 Couhed Marinade. — Fry two onions, two car- 
 rots, two bay-leaves, three shallots, a bunch of 
 parsley, a sprig of thyme, and a, clove of garlic 
 in three ounces of butter. Pour on one quart 
 of water, and one quart of vinegar, and boil for 
 three minutes. Add pepper and salt, and store 
 for use. Raw Marinade (for small portions of 
 food, such as fillets of fish, and slices of 
 poultry). — Put a bunch of herbs and a sliced 
 onion with a little pepper and salt into a dish ; 
 pour on them a gill of vinegar and a table- 
 spoonful of oil. 
 
 MARINADE FOR FISH, ECONOMICAL. 
 
 An excellent and economical marinade that 
 will serve for several occasions, if boiled. 
 
 skimmed, and bottled closely after use. Brown 
 together in a stewpan, with a lump of butter, 
 two middle-sized onions, two shallots, a small 
 bit of garlic, and a carrot, all minced, and sim- 
 mer for two or three hours over a slow flre with 
 a pint and a half of cheap claret or British 
 wine ; add a bunch of sweet herbs, parsley, two 
 or three cloves, pounded with a dozen Jamaica 
 peppers, salt, and a pinch of cayenne. Strain 
 for use. Fish to be broiled or fried should be 
 laid in a marinade of oil and minced sweet 
 herbs. Sufficient for one pint. 
 
 MARJORAM. 
 
 Four different species of marjoram are culti- 
 vated — pot, sweet, winter, and common. All — 
 but chiefly the first three — are aromatics, of 
 sweet flavour, and much employed as relishing 
 herbs in soups, broths, stuffings, etc. The 
 common marjoram is only used in cookery when 
 the others are not at hand. The propagation of 
 sweet marjoram or knotted marjoram is by 
 means of seed ; a little should be sown every 
 spring. Pot marjoram is readily propagated by 
 cuttings, and is hardy enough to endure our 
 winters. For winter sweet marjoram, a shel- 
 tered border and a dry soil are required. It is 
 a perennial plant, and is propagated by parting 
 the roots in autumn. For winter use, both 
 kinds of sweet marjoram should be slowly dried 
 in the shade, and afterwards hung in a dry 
 place. 
 
 MARKETING, RULES FOR. 
 
 {See Pbinciples of Cookery, p. xcii.) 
 MARLBOROUGH PUDDING. 
 
 Warm two ounces of fresh butter, and when 
 soft, without being thoroughly melted, stir until 
 it resembles cream ; add two ounces of powdered 
 or sifted sugar, and two well-beaten eggs, and 
 mix all together. When done, line a small pie- 
 dish with puff-paste, placing a border also round 
 the edge; cover the bottom with a layer of 
 apricot or strawberry jam ; pour in the mixture, 
 and bake from twenty to twenty-five minutes. 
 We would suggest, that instead of the dish being 
 lined with pun-paste, a few thin slices of sponge- 
 cake should be substituted, as the paste is likely 
 to be sodden and indigestible. Probable cost, 
 7d. Sufficient for three persons. 
 
 MARMALADE. 
 
 Marmalade is a half-liquid preserve, made by 
 boiling the pulp of thickly-rinded fruits — 
 oranges, pineapples, quinces, etc., with por- 
 tions of the rind. {See Classified Index for 
 various kinds of marmalade descjribed in this 
 work.) 
 
 MARMALADE, ORANGE, EASY WAY OF MAKING. 
 
 Select sound Seville ortinges in the month of 
 March or April, and look them well over to see 
 that there are no bruises or blemishes. Put 
 them whole into a large preserving-pan with 
 plenty of water, and stew until soft, not for- 
 getting to change the water two or three times. 
 When tender, pour off the water, peel off the 
 rind, take away the pips, and weigh one pound 
 and a half of lump sugar to every pound of pulp, 
 and add a small cupful of the water that the 
 oranges were boiled in. Clear the syrup by 
 boiling it for a few minutes before adding the 
 
MAR 
 
 402 
 
 MAR 
 
 pulp, cut the rind into thin strips, and when 
 the pulp has simmered ten minutes, add the 
 rind and give another boil for ten minutes. 
 Time to boil the oranges, two hours, or until 
 tender. Average cost, 7d. per pot. 
 
 MARMALADE, ORANGE, CRATED. 
 
 Grate the outer rind of twenty oranges and 
 one lemon, scoop out the inside, and carefully 
 remove the seeds ; bruise the pulp with about a 
 quarter of a pint of water, through a sieve. 
 Weigh the orange-pulp, and allow a pound of 
 sugar to a pound of the fruit. Boil them to- 
 gether with the grated rind, until the latter is 
 tender. As the oranges are grated, these grat- 
 ings should be thrown into water to prevent 
 their becoming a mass, and afterwards added 
 with the other items, when ready for boiling. 
 Time, half an hour to boil. 
 
 MARMALADE, ORANGE, PUDDING. 
 
 Beat up two eggs, mix with them a quarter 
 of a pint of new milk, and a quarter of a pound 
 of good moist sugar ; beat together for five min- 
 utes. Prepare some bread-crumbs by rubbing 
 the stale crumb through a wire sieve, rejecting 
 the crust. Of these crumbs take a quarter of a 
 pound, with rather more than their weight of 
 good suet. Mix with the eggs and milk, and 
 work the mixture until smooth. Fill a buttered 
 tin mould with the mixture and alternate layers 
 of orange marmalade, and bake in a moderate 
 oven. The excellence of this pudding will 
 greatly depend on the mixing of the ingredients. 
 Time, one hour and three-quarters to bake. 
 To beat the mixture, twenty-five minutes. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. One pound of marmalade 
 is sufficient for this pudding. 
 
 MARMALADE, ORANGE, PUDDING (another way). 
 Separate the yolks from the whites of half a 
 dozen fresh eggs, beat the yolks in one basin, 
 and half the whites in another. Mix together 
 three or four ounces of clarified butter and a 
 quarter of a pound of marmalade, with as much 
 sugar as will sweeten, and then mix with the 
 beaten eggs, stirring in the whites when the 
 mixture has been well worked with a wooden 
 spoon for five minutes. Bake in a buttered 
 dish. Time, three-quarters of an hour to bake. 
 Probable cost. Is. SufScient for four or five 
 persons, (^ee also Golden Pudding.) 
 
 MARMALADE, ORANGE, SAUCE. 
 
 Take two large table-spoonfuls of orange 
 marmalade, put it into a saucepan with a wine- 
 glassful of sherry, another of water, and six 
 lumps of white sugar. Boil until the sugar is 
 dissolved, aiyl thicken with arrowroot. Suf- 
 ficient for a/ large pudding. Time to make, 
 about five minutes. Probable cost, lOd. 
 
 MARMALADE, ORANGE, SCOTCH. 
 
 There are many ways of making this marma- 
 lade ; but most agree in the proportion of sugar 
 to fruit. We give the simplest and most eco- 
 nomical way. Boil the oranges until they are 
 tender, and can be easily pierced with the head 
 of a pin. When this is done, cut them open, 
 remove the seeds, separate the pulp from the" 
 rind, and clear off the coarse filmy parts from 
 the orange, and some of the white "inner part of 
 the rind. Shred the rind, the finer the better, 
 and some of it may even be pounded and added 
 
 with the shreds to the pulp. Clarify the sugar, 
 allowing one pound and a half of sugar to each 
 pound of fruit. Boil the syrup for ten minutes. 
 Throw in the pulpj juice, and rind, and let all 
 boil together till the marmalade jellies. Sweet 
 oranges are sometimes used for marmalade, and 
 only a small portion of Seville or lemon pulp and 
 rind is added to flavour. Time to boil the 
 oranges, from three to four hours; marmalade, 
 thirty to forty minutes, (^ee also Obanoe 
 Marmalade.) 
 
 MARMALADE, ORANGE, TRANSPARENT. 
 
 Squeeze out all the juice from a dozen oranges, 
 or from twelve China and twelve Seville. Strain, 
 steep the pulp after the juice has been expressed, 
 in a little water, rinse it well in it, and pour 
 the water through a muslin with the rest of the 
 juice. Boil together with a pound and a half of 
 sugar, clarified, to each pint of juice. Skim and 
 boil for about twelve or fifteen minutes. The 
 rind of a Seville orange, rubbed oif on a few 
 lumps of sugar, will improve the flavour of 
 marmalade. 
 
 MARMITE, PETITE. 
 
 The petite marmite, or small stock, is of the 
 same nature as the Cboute-au-Pot, and is pre- 
 pared in exactly the same way, being cooked in 
 an earthenware stewpan, and strained into a. 
 smaller one. After this is done, add the 
 shredded vegetable with some pieces of beef, 
 wings, or other parts of fowl from the larger 
 dish. Bring the smaller dish to table with a 
 serviette pinned round it, or it may be divided 
 into as many small marmites as there are guests, 
 each of which can be boiled for a few minutes, 
 and then served. 
 
 MARROW. 
 
 Marrow is the fatty matter which fills up the 
 hollow of the shaft of the bones. Its nourishing 
 properties are the same as those of fats gener- 
 ally. It is much relished by epicures, but it 
 ought to be observed that it is digested with 
 difficulty, unless thinly-spread on toasted bread, 
 with the addition of salt, and used in modera- 
 tion. 
 
 MARROW BONES. 
 
 Saw the marrow bones into neat pieces, cover 
 the ends with a paste made of flour and water, 
 tie them in a floured cloth, and boil for two 
 hours. Remove the cloth and crust, put a nap- 
 kin on a dish, set the bones upright, and serve 
 with dry toast. The marrow can be scooped out 
 and spread on the toast with a sprinkling of 
 pepper and salt, before sending to table ; but it 
 is so likely to get cold, that we suggest the 
 above method. Marrow bones are bought gener- 
 ally vyith silver-side of the round of beef, and 
 weighed with the meat. {See also Beep Maeeow 
 Bones.) 
 
 marrow, croustades of. 
 
 Split a large marrow bone and take out the 
 marrow. Put it into a small saucepan wiih 
 enough water to cover it well, and a pinch of 
 salt. Set on the fire, bring to boiling-point, 
 then take out the marrow and lay it in cold 
 water. When cold, drain it, and pound it with 
 the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs ; add a table- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley, a very little thyme, 
 a pinch of salt, and a dusting of cayenne pep- 
 
MAR 
 
 403 
 
 MAS 
 
 per. Mix well'. Cut and fry some croustades; 
 place them on a baking- tin. Spread the mix- 
 ture on them, with a few brown bread-crumbs on 
 the top, and put them in a hot oven for ten 
 minutes. Sprinkle a little chopped parsley on 
 top of each, and serve. 
 MARROW DUMPLINGS. 
 
 Pour over {wo stale French rolls as much 
 boiling milk as will soak them well. Squeeze 
 them dry, and beat them until they are smooth. 
 Beat two and a half ounces of marrow and but- 
 ter, mixed together until like cream, and add 
 tjhese ingredients to two well-whfisked eggs, 
 thoroughly mixed, make into small balls, and 
 drop these into boiling soup, or if intended as an 
 accompaniment to roast meat, into boiling 
 water. Marrow dumplings majr be seasoned to 
 adapt them to the dish for which they are in- 
 tended. They are much used in Germany, but 
 are not much known in England, except in the 
 western counties, where they are principally 
 composed of suet, flour, etc. Time, twenty 
 minutes to boil. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient 
 for ten dumplings. 
 MARROW DUMPLINGS, FOR SOUP. 
 
 Cut out the crumb pf a light roll, and soak 
 it for a minute in cold milk. Pour off the milk, 
 and add two ounces of flour, half a pound of 
 marrow, chopped, the yolks of six eggs, beaten 
 to a froth, the crumb of a small roll toasted, 
 and cut into small dice, a table-spoonful of 
 chopped parsley, and pepper and salt to taste. 
 Stir all these ingredients well together, form 
 them into small dumplings, boil them in weak 
 stock, and afterwards add them to the soup. 
 Time to boil, an hour. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 Sufficient for eight persons. 
 MARROW PATTIES. 
 
 Prepare as for Makbow Toast. Drop into 
 boiling water, in which a little salt is dissolved, 
 the marrow cut into small pieces, and boil for 
 one minute. Drain it, and put it into a sauce- 
 pan with a tea-spoonful of parsley, chopped, a 
 tiny bit of shallot, half a tea-spoonful of lemon- 
 juice, and pepper and salt to taste. Toss these 
 ingredients lightly together until they are hot, 
 fill the patty-cases, which should be already 
 baked, and serve. Time to prepare, five minutes. 
 MARROW PUDDING. 
 
 Arrange in layers, in a buttered mould, a 
 quarter of a pound of bread, cut in thin slices, 
 three ounces of marrow, chopped fine, an ounce 
 of citron, cut small, and two ounces of pounded 
 sweet almonds. Cover with a sauce made of 
 half a pint of milk or cream, three eggs, well 
 beaten, and a sufficient quantity of sugar and 
 nutmeg to fiavour the whole. Boil for an hour, 
 or bake for forty minutes, turn the pudding 
 out of the mould, and serve with a little sifted 
 sugar over it. The almonds may be left out, 
 and raisins or currants substituted. Probable 
 co«t, with cream. Is. 8d. Sufficient for four 
 persons. 
 
 MARROW PUDDING, BOILED OR BAKED. 
 
 Pour -.over half a pint of fine crtimbs, pre- 
 pareduirom,. stale rolls, three breakfast-cupfuls 
 of boilMg milk, flavoured with lemon-peel and 
 grated-^i'nutmeg. Cover them to soak, then 
 beat together the bread, seven ounces of care- 
 
 fully-shredded marrow, and four well-v/hisked 
 eggs. Sweeten to taste, and boil in a buttered 
 mould, or bake in a dish lined with puff-paste. 
 Time, two hours to boil; an hour to bake. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 MARROW PUDDING, OR FAT PUDDING. 
 
 (See Fat or Mabbow Pudding.) 
 MARROW TOAST. 
 
 Take the marrow from the Done, cut it up, 
 and parboil in salt and water for one minute. 
 Drain, season with pepper and salt, and add a 
 little lemon-juice and chopped . parsley. Toss 
 lightly together ; spread the mixture on squares 
 of hot crisp toast, and serve immediately. 
 
 MARSHMALLOW. 
 
 This is a wholesome plant, and very palat- 
 able when boiled, and afterwards fried with 
 onions and butter. In seasons of scarcity, the 
 inhabitants of some of the eastern counties 
 often have recourse to it as a principal article 
 of food. 
 
 MARSHMALLOW WATER. 
 
 A decoction of marshmallow is efficacious in 
 the cure of severe coughs, catarrhs, etc. Cut 
 the roots into thin slices, and pour over them 
 boiling water (about a pint to an ounce of the 
 root), cleansing and peeling off the outer skin 
 before infusion. The water may be flavoured 
 with the squeezed juice and grated rind of an 
 orange, and sweetened with honey or brown 
 sugar-candy. Marshir.r.llow leaves are eaten 
 dressed like lettuce, as a salad. Time, two 
 hours to infuse. 
 
 MARSH-MARIGOLD. 
 
 When gathered before they expand, the 
 flowers of the marsh-marigold, if preserved in 
 vinegar, with the addition of salt, may be vised 
 as a substitute for capers. This plant is easily 
 propagated by parting the roots in autumn, or 
 by sowing the seeds about the latter end of 
 summer ; it requires a humid soil, and a some- 
 what shady situation. 
 
 MARYLAND DOUGH NUTS. 
 
 Break an egg into a bowl. Beat it well, and 
 mix with it half a pint of melted butter, half a 
 pint of sugar, half a, pint of sour milk, a tea- 
 spoonful of cinnamon, half a tea-spoonful of 
 powdered cloves, and nine ounces of dried flour. 
 Mix thoroughly, stir in a tea-spoonful of soda 
 dissolved in a tea^spoonful of boiling water, 
 and work in another nine ounces of flour. Roll 
 the paste to the thickness of half an inch ; cut 
 it into rounds, and fry these in plenty of boil- 
 ing fat. 
 MARZIPAN. 
 
 (See Massepain.) 
 MA8SEPAIN (called also Marchpane and Marzipan). 
 
 Take eight ounces of blanched and skinned 
 almonds, dry them, and pound them up with 
 one ouncfe of vanilla-flavoured sugar, and a 
 table-spoonful of kirsch, and pass through a 
 sieve. Cook four ounces of sugar in a sauce- 
 pan until it forms bubbles; mix the almonds 
 with it, and dry the paste, stirring it with a 
 spoon until it clings to the saucepan ; then 
 remove it and put it on a marble slab sprinkled 
 with, icing sugar. When cold, knead it with the 
 
MAT 
 
 401 
 
 ME A 
 
 hands to make it smooth. If it is wished to 
 model flowers or fruit in this sugar, one-sixth 
 of its weight in adragant gum (gum-tra^a- 
 canth) must be mixed and kneaded with it. 
 All sorts of fancy sugar-work for ornamentation 
 can be made of massepain. 
 MATE. 
 
 The Paraguay tea-plant or mate is a native 
 of the New World, and in some parts of South 
 America is used as extensively for making a 
 hot infusion as tea and coffee are with us. 
 It is a shrub which attains to about the size of 
 an orange-tree, and grows wild in the forests 
 of Paraguay and Brazil. The work of collect- 
 ing and preparing the leaves of this plant for 
 use is performed by the native Indians ; it is 
 said that upwards of five million pounds of the 
 mate-leaves are annually gathered in Paraguay 
 alone. The preparation of this tea is by no 
 means so carefully gone about as that of 
 Chinese tea. At certain seasons of the year 
 the natives penetrate the forest, and having 
 selected a tree, cut off with a hatchet its prin- 
 cipal branches. When a sufficient number of 
 branches are cut down, they are placed on 
 hurdles. A wood fire is then kindled, and 
 when the flames have ceased to ascend, the 
 hurdles are placed upon it. The branches are 
 allowed to remain on the hurdles till they are 
 •dried. They are then removed from the fire, 
 and a clean hard floor being made on some spot 
 cf ground, they are strewn upon it and beaten 
 well with sticks. In this way the dried leaves 
 ^ud smaller branches are reduced almost to a 
 powder, which is usually placed in bullock- 
 hides. These, being sewed up, the tea is ready 
 for exportation. During the packing, how- 
 ever, a selection is made, and three sorts of 
 mate are known in the market. Mate is the 
 universal drink of the natives of South America, 
 who are among the healthiest and hardiest 
 people in the world. They drink from ten to 
 twelve cups daily of this beverage, and with 
 scarcely any food they will travel immense dis- 
 tances and perform arduous labour with no 
 signs of fatigue. As it contains almost no 
 tannin it can be drunk by people who cannot 
 take ordinary tea, and is, in fact, extensively 
 used as a cure for dyspepsia and nervous com- 
 plaints. It also acts beneficially upon the 
 biliary and excretory organs, and persons who 
 are subject to rheumatism, gout, or diabetes 
 derive great benefit from drinking it. It is, 
 unfortunately, difficult to procure in this 
 country. 
 MATELOTE SAUCE FOR PIKE. 
 
 {See Pike, Matelote Sauce foe.) 
 MATELOTE SAUCE, OX TAIL WITH. 
 
 {See Ox Tail with Matelote Sauce.) 
 MATRIMONY SAUCE (for Dumplings). 
 
 Put a bit of butter into cold water in a sauce- 
 pan; dust in a little flour, stirring one way till 
 they are completely mixed; then add some 
 brown sugar and a table-spoonful or so of vine- 
 gar. Continue stirring till the sauce boils; 
 pour into a basin, and serve. 
 
 MAVONNAISE ik la Gelee). 
 
 The basis for this dish should be a firm 
 savoury jelly. Aspic jelly is well suited for the 
 
 purpose, and it may be adapted to any parti- 
 cular dish by dissolving and then ad(fing the 
 flavouring required. Take as much of the jelly 
 as may be wanted, dissolve it in an enamelled 
 saucepan, and whisk it to a white froth with 
 double its quantity of ^ood oil, and for a 
 quarter of a pint of the jelly, when in a dis- 
 solved state, about half a dozen spoonfuls of 
 tarragon vinegar, and of salt, pepper, and 
 sugar, a tea-spoonful mixed, but half the quan- 
 tity should be salt. Whisk all well, taking care 
 to pour in the oil and vinegar, which should be 
 added last, slowly and by degrees. When 
 smooth and white like cream the mayonnaise 
 is ready. It should be whisked over ice. 
 
 MAYONNAISE SAUCE. 
 
 A mixture of egg-yolks, oil, vinegar, or lemon- 
 juice. The principal point to be attended to in 
 preparing this sauce is the mode of mixing, 
 which demands time, patience, and nicety. 
 Break the yolk of a fresh egg into a bowl with 
 a salt-spoonful of pepper and salt mixed. Beat 
 it till thick, then add from time to time, during 
 the mixing, two or three drops of the best Lucca 
 oil until about four ounces have been used, and 
 the mixture is thick and yellow. When eight 
 tea-spoonfuls of oil have been used, stir in one 
 tea-spoonful of white vinegar, and continue 
 adding oil and vinegar in these proportions until 
 all the oil is used. The yolk of one egg would 
 be sufficient for a pint of oil and vinegar in pro- 
 portion. The addition of a few drops of lemon- 
 juice makes mayonnaise look creamy; tarragon 
 vinegar assists the flavour. Mayonnaise will 
 keep a long time if bottled closely and kept in 
 a cool place. 
 
 MAYONNAISE SAUCE (another way). 
 , (See LoBSTEB Salad.) 
 
 MAYONNAISE SAUCE (another way). 
 
 Mix smoothly together the yolks of two hard- 
 boiled eggs, and the yolk of a raw one, with a 
 salt-spoonful of salt, one of pepper, and one of 
 mustard. Then add, a few drops at a time, a 
 quarter of a pint of best salad-oil, and half that 
 quantity of vinegar, stirring and rubbing well 
 all the time, to prevent the oil from settling on 
 the top. When these ingredients are mixed to 
 a smooth batter, add two table-spoonfuls of 
 good gravy or jelly, one of rich cream, the juice 
 of half a lemon, and one shallot, pounded. The 
 secret of making this sauce is to mix it thor- 
 oughly, and add the different ingredients very 
 gradually. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient to cover 
 a moderate-sized dish of cold meat, fish, etc. 
 
 MEAD, SIMPLE. 
 
 A simple, delicious beverage, seldom made ex- 
 cept by the cottager who keeps bees. After dis- 
 posing of the bulk of the honey-produce, the 
 goodwife economises what remains for the use 
 of the family, thus. Dissolve a pound, or more, 
 of honey in three quarts of water. Boil, skim, 
 and reduce the liquid to half a gallon. Fill the 
 vessel in which it is placed, cover, and let the 
 mead be undisturbed for two or three days, when 
 it is ready for use. The combs, after being 
 drained, are washed in warm water, that nothing 
 shall be lost, and the liquid is strained from the 
 sediment, to be used to enrich the mead or to 
 make the family beer, with the addition of a 
 
MEA 
 
 405 
 
 MEA 
 
 little yeast. It is kept warm by tlie fire for a, 
 few days to ferment, then bottled. 
 
 MEAD, TO PREPARE (another way). 
 
 The following is one of the most approved 
 methods of brewing mead. Let the whites of 
 six eggs be well incorporated with twelve gallons 
 of water, to which add twenty pounds of honey. 
 Boil these ingredients for an hour, then put 
 into the liquor a little ginger, clove, cinnamon, 
 and mace, together with a small sprig of rose- 
 mary. As soon as the liqxior is cool, add a spoon- 
 ful of yeast, and pour the mead into a vessel, 
 which should be filled up while it works. When 
 the fermentation ceases, close the cask, and 
 deposit it for six or eight months in a vault or 
 ceUar of an equal temperature, and in which the 
 liquor will not be liable to be affected by the 
 changes of the weather. At the end of that 
 time it may be bottled, and will then be fit for 
 use. A more simple, and to some palates more 
 agreeable, method, is to mix the honey in the 
 proportion of one pound to a quart of water, 
 which is to be boiled, scummed, and fermented 
 in the usual manner, without the addition of any 
 aromatic substances. It ought to be preserved 
 in a, similar manner, and bottled at the expira- 
 tion of the same time. 
 MEAGRE SOUP (Soup3 Maigre). 
 
 Before beginning, wash thoroughly all your 
 green vegetables, peel your roots, and throw 
 them into cold water. The proportions of each 
 must depend very much upon what you can get. 
 The soup, when finished, should be of the thick- 
 ness of ordinary pea-soup. Take five or six 
 handfuls of common sorrel, two large lettuces 
 from which the withered leaves only have been 
 removed, a small bunch of chervil, and two or 
 three sprigs of parsley. Shred all these very 
 fine. Slice and chop onions, carrots, and leeks 
 very fine. Fry the vegetables till lightly browned 
 in butter, put them into a saucepan with boil- 
 ing water, and add a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, 
 and a good lump of butter. Season with pepper 
 and salt. Stir from time to time to prevent 
 any of the ingredients from sticking to the 
 bottom. When they are thoroughly cooked, 
 press the vegetables through a sieve. If neces- 
 sary, add more water to the pulp, and boil the 
 soup again before serving. The soup may be 
 further thickened either with bread or boiled 
 potatoes — steeped in a little of the liquor, and 
 then broken up and mixed with the soup. 
 MEAL FRITTERS, INDIAN. 
 
 {See Indian Meal Fbittebs.) 
 
 MEAL PUDDING (American). 
 
 A breakfast^cupful of Indian cornmeal and a 
 tea-spoonful of salt, mixed with boiling milk, 
 makes a pudding much liked by the Americans ; 
 and, when enriched with eggs, of which there 
 should be four to this quantity of meal, it 
 cannot fail to please almost any palate. The 
 eggs must not be added until the mixture has 
 cooled. Boil in a buttered mould, and serve 
 with syrup and butter, or with any sweet sauce. 
 Time, two hours and a half in a mould. A quart 
 of milk is suificient for the above ingredients. 
 MEAL PUDDINGS, IN SKINS. 
 
 See that the skins are well washed. Let them 
 soak for twelve hours in salt and water, then 
 
 fill them, as for ox-blood puddings, allowing 
 room for swelling. Make a stuffing of two 
 pounds of good sifted oatmeal, one pound and 
 a half of finely-shredded suet, a large onion, or 
 two middle-sized ones, minced, pepper and salt, 
 and a little allspice. Boil, but do not put them 
 into quite boiling water. Time, about thirty-five 
 minutes. Probable cost. Is. 9d. SufUcient for 
 twenty-four skins. 
 
 MEAT AND BREAD PUDDING. 
 
 {See Bbead and Meat Pudding, Poetable.) 
 
 MEAT AND VEGETABLE STOCK. 
 
 Having put the necessary quantity of meat, 
 bones, and trimmings, with a proper proportion 
 of water, into the stewpan, chop the vegetables, 
 allowing to each quart of water a lettuce, a 
 head of celery, two small onions, each stuck 
 with a clove, a leek, a turnip, a carrot, a small 
 bunch of savoury herbs, some parsley, and, 
 unless the soup is to be white, a dessert-spoon- 
 ful of brown sugar, and half an ounce of salt. 
 Stew from five to six hours ; pulp the vegetables, 
 and strain through a sieve for use. A pint of 
 water is enough for a pound of meat. 
 
 MEAT, AUSTRALIAN. 
 
 {See Tinned Meats, Austealian.) 
 
 MEAT BALLS, MINCED, FRIED. 
 
 Take some roast mutton, some chestnuts, and 
 neck of veal boiled in water with salt and vine- 
 gar. Cut them up separately into small pieces, 
 mix them with seasoning herbs, also cut as fine 
 as possible. Add enough salt and pepper to 
 season the materials, and make them into a 
 mass with the yolks of three eggs. Roll this 
 into balls, fry in butter until done, and then 
 serve with tomato sauce. 
 
 MEAT CAKE, MOULDED. 
 
 Pounded or potted meat does best for this 
 cake. Cut slices of cold roast veal, without any 
 of the brown part, and lean ham; pound them 
 to a paste in a mortar. Boil eight or ten eggs 
 hard, and mince parsley enough to half fill 
 ai quarter-pint cup, season with a little 
 pounded mace and pepper. Lay the egg-yolks, 
 in halves, at the bottom of a buttered mould, 
 and strew some of the parsley over them. Next, 
 make a layer of the pounded mfeat, which should 
 be moistened with a little good stock or gravy; 
 arrange the egg-yolks as before, and fill up with 
 seasoning and meat. Put bits of butter over 
 the top, and bake in a gentle oven. The cake 
 should not be removed from the mould until 
 cold. Time, about three-quarters of an hour 
 to bake. Sufficient, two pounds of meat for four 
 persons. 
 MEAT, COLD. 
 
 When newly-cooked meat is brought from 
 table, put it on a dry dish ; if the gravy is left 
 about it the meat becomes sour. To enjoy cold 
 meat it should be cooked the day before wanted, 
 and not cut, as the juices thus remain, and add 
 a richness to the meat. Every particle of cold 
 meat that is left from table should be used. 
 The fat portions can be melted down to make 
 dripping for kitchen use and frying purposes. 
 TTie skin, gristle, and bone should" be gently 
 stewed in water to make stock for soup or gravy. 
 Tire lean parts may be served again. 
 
MEA 
 
 406 
 
 MEA 
 
 MEAT CROQUETTES. 
 
 Take any kind of cooked meat at hand. The 
 remains of fowl, a few slices of ham, with an 
 appropriate seasoning of chopped mushrooms, 
 grated nutmeg, pepper, etc. ; or cold roast beef, 
 with a small bunch of mixed savoury herbs, 
 some minced shallot, an anchovy, pepper, and 
 salt. Put the meat into a stewpan. If fowl, 
 allow to every half pound of meat two ounces 
 of ham, which may be chopped, or cut in small 
 slices. Moisten with three table-spoonfuls of 
 white sauce, and stew for a few minutes, when 
 stir in the yolks of three eggs, and let it stand 
 until the eggs are set. Turn the meat out on 
 a large dish, spread it over evenly, and when 
 quite cold divide it into equal portions, and, 
 with the help of fine bread-crumbs, roll into 
 balls or any other shapes, according to fancy; 
 smear well with egg, and cover thickly with 
 more bread-crumbs. Fry at once in boiling 
 lard, drain, and serve on a napkin, with a gar- 
 nish of parsley. For beef croquettes, add, 
 after the eggs have set, oysters, cut into four, 
 and use some of their liquor for the sauce. If 
 white sauce is not at hand, melt an ounce of 
 butter, mix in a spoonful of flour, add a gill 
 of stock, and stir in a pound of mince. 
 
 MEAT GLAZE. 
 
 Full particulars regarding Meat Glaze are 
 given in the article Glaze. 
 
 MEAT GLAZE, IN A HURRY. 
 
 Glaze is an extract of meat, which, when con- 
 densed by boiling, becomes the thick varnish 
 so useful to the cook for giving an inviting ap- 
 pearance to a hot or cold joint, poultry, or 
 vegetables. Boil down a strong stock or gravy 
 until it seems thickish as it drops from the 
 spoon with which it is being stirred, and be- 
 comes a firm jelly when cold. Veal being more 
 gelatinous than other meat, produces the best 
 glaze. To make glaze in a hurry, if no stock 
 be at hand, slice a quarter of a pound of veal 
 as thinly as possible, and fry it over a slow 
 fire in a small pan with a bit of butter; draw the 
 stewpan from the fire, and stir in a very small 
 cup of water; add pepper and salt, and again 
 stir it until it has boiled thick; then strain it 
 into a pot and use, laying it on with a brush. 
 When more than one coat is required, dry before 
 putting on another. 
 
 MEAT GRAVY FOR SAUCES. 
 
 This preparation may be used in the composi- 
 tion of various sauces. It is obtained by strain- 
 ing the gfravy produced by the cooking of meat, 
 and boiling it down at a gentle heat to the con- 
 sistency of sauce. Sometimes it is thickened, 
 without being boiled down, by the addition of 
 various materials, such as a roux of flour and 
 butter, the yolks of hard-boiled eggs, tomato 
 marmalade, or by chestnuts roasted and crushed 
 to powder. 
 
 MEAT GRAVY FOR SAUCES AND SIMILAR 
 PURPOSES. 
 
 Place in a stewpan slices of bacon, veal, and 
 some minced ham. The weight of meat put in 
 will, of course, depend upon the quantity of 
 juice required. The rule is usually to employ 
 one pound and a half of meat for each pint of 
 gravy. Then place in the stewpan some onions, 
 
 carrots, parsnips, celery, parsley, thyme, chives, 
 cloves, nutmeg, and pepper. Place the pan 
 over a gentle fire until all the juice contained 
 in the meat has escaped, then increase the heat 
 until the juice has become as thick as it can be 
 made without risk of burning it. Remove the 
 meat, and put in as many lumps of butter the 
 size of an egg as there were pounds of meat em- 
 ployed. Thicken with a proper quantity of 
 flour, and form a roux. When this is done, 
 put the meat back into the stewpan, pour in 
 some stock broth, simmer for two hours, skim 
 the liquid, and strain it. 
 
 MEAT JELLY FOR PIES. 
 
 {See Pies, Meat Jellt fob.) 
 MEAT PATTIES. 
 
 Prepare the meat in the usual way, mince 
 neatly and fill patty-pans lined with puff paste. 
 Or, make a plain puff paste, roll thin, and form 
 the patties like apple-puffs with the mince 
 enveloped in the paste. Pinch the edges closely 
 together, and fry a nice brown. Time, ten 
 minutes to fry. 
 
 MEAT PIE (a la Don Pedro). 
 
 This is a kind of ragout put into a tin made 
 expressly for the dish. Take some mutton- 
 chops, either from the loin or neck, trim them 
 neatly and put them, with some chopped pars- 
 ley, butter, pepper, salt, etc., in a stewpan over 
 a slow fire. Place the chops, with some good 
 brown gravy, into the tin baking-dish, and add 
 slices of raw ham. Cover with the lid, but first 
 fill in with mashed potatoes to the brim; bake 
 for two hours in a slow oven, when the tin cover 
 may be taken off, and the chops will be found 
 tender and succulent. Probable cost of chops. 
 Is. per pound. 
 
 MEAT PIES, FORCEMEAT FOR. 
 
 {See FoECEMEAT FOB Meat Pies.) 
 
 MEAT PIES, PASTRY FOR. 
 
 (See Pastet, Peench, foe Meat Pies, Etc.) 
 
 MEAT PORCUPINE. 
 
 Press into a plain oval mould the following: 
 — Half a pound of pork, and one pound of rump- 
 steak (chopped finely), one clove of garlic 
 (shredded), a tea-spoonful of salt, pepper, and 
 nutmeg — ^the whole moistened and well beaten 
 up with two eggs. Turn the mixture out of the 
 mould, and stick pieces of fat bacon all over it, 
 to resemble a porcupine. Stew it for an hour 
 in hot butter, until it is brown all over. Prob- 
 able cost, 3s. 6d. 
 
 MEAT, POTTED. 
 
 Take the meat from which beef tea has been 
 made, if economy is desired, and put this into 
 a mortar with salt and pepper to taste. Add 
 a good lump of butter. Pound thoroughly, 
 then add a tea-spoonful of Worcester Sauce, 
 and pound again. Now add a tea^spoonful of 
 Bovril or Lemco dissolved in hot water, and 
 thoroughly stir in. When all is pounded well 
 together, put the mixture into little glass 
 dishes or pots, and pour a little melted butter 
 over the top of each. 
 
 MEAT PRESERVING. 
 
 Meat taints soon, and few know how to ren- 
 der it, when tainted, fit for use. Some rub the 
 
MEA 
 
 407 
 
 MEG 
 
 joint over with pytoligneous a6id/ which effec- 
 tually prevents it turning bad, but imparts a 
 very disagreeable flavour. To preserve meat, 
 thoroughly examine it when it comes from the 
 butcher's, carefully remove flyblows, if there be 
 any, wipe with a perfectly dry cloth all the flaps 
 and crevices, so as to leave no damp, which soon 
 imparts a disagreeable taint to "meat, cut out 
 all the kernels and perceptible veins, wrap a 
 piece of muslin lightly round the joint, sew it 
 up, and hang it, if possible, in a current of air 
 in a cool place. 
 MEAT RISSOLES, ENGLISH. 
 
 Prepare meat — beef, mutton, veal, poultry, or 
 game — as before directed for Meat Croquettes. 
 The rissoles may be made" up in the form of 
 cones — egged, bread-crumbed, fried without 
 paste, and served with a gravy. If preferred 
 with paste, cut out double the number of 
 rounds that are required of rissoles ; on one 
 round place the mince, eggi the edge, and cover 
 with a corresponding round. Fry, first brush- 
 ing them with egg, of a nice brown ; use butter, 
 and drain the rissoles before Serving. Send to 
 table on a napkin, garnished with parsley. 
 Time, five or six minutes to fry. Probable cost, 
 6d., exclusive of meat. 
 MEAT RISSOLES, GERMAN. 
 
 Fry two or three ounces of bacoa.cut into 
 small squares, and then add the following in- 
 gredients. To a well-beaten egg, stir a quarter 
 of a pound of finely-minced cold meat, a quar- 
 ter pi a pound of soaked bread (squeezed dry), 
 a table-spoonful of chopped onion, another of 
 parsley, and pepper and salt to taste. When 
 these ingredients are fried sufliciently, turn 
 them out into a basin until nearly cold; then 
 add a couple of eggs, beat all well together, 
 form the mixture into balls about the size of 
 an egg, and fry for six minutes, or drop' them 
 into boiling soup, stock, or water; powr rich 
 gravy over them before serving. Time to make, 
 half an hour. Sufficient for six balls. -Prob- 
 able cost, 8d., exclusive of cold meat. -• 
 
 MEAT ROLL PUDDINGS. 
 
 . Make a plain suet pastry, roll it out to the 
 thickness of half an inch ; allow two pounds of 
 pastry to one pound of meat. Take a mixture 
 of beef and kidney, finely minced, and season 
 with salt, black pepper, and nutmeg. A small 
 onion or a few mushrooms, minced, should also 
 be added. Spread this mixture over the crust, 
 and roll up ; tie in a cloth, and boil for two and 
 a half to three hours. 
 
 MEAT WASHING. ' ~ 
 
 If meat is not perfectly sweet, it should be 
 washed before being dressed. In frosty weather, 
 if it has become congealed, it should be thawed 
 by being soaked in cold water for a time. In 
 these cases, particular care should be taken to 
 wipe the meat perfectly dry before cooking it. 
 
 MECKLENBURG LIVER SAUSAGES. 
 
 Take the liver from a pig while it is quite 
 fresh; mince it, and then pass it thrdugh a 
 coarse sieve, but first ascertain its weight. To 
 a pound of the liver, mix half a pound of pork 
 (boiled tender), that has been cut from any part 
 of the pig, although slices from the breast are 
 usually taken. Take the tongue, kidneys, and 
 
 some of the inside fat ; chop this meat, but do 
 not mince it, and mix all with the raw liver. 
 Season with salt, pepper, powdered cloves or 
 allspice, and a few sage-leaves reduced to 
 powder. The top-fat, from the boiling of the 
 meat, and the liquor should both be used. When 
 filling, put the fat, with the meat, into the 
 skins, and boil the sausages in the liquor (saltea), 
 which must be made quite hot before they are 
 put in. Plunge them, when cooked, into cold 
 water ; then hang them to dry. To be smoked, 
 or not. The skins must be only three-partB 
 filled. Time to boil, half an hour. 
 
 MECKLENBURG LIVER SAUSAGES (another way). 
 
 (See LivBB Sausages, Mecklbnbueo, Smoked.) 
 
 MECKLENBURG SAUSAGES. 
 
 Prepare the following ingredients, with which 
 fill the sausage-skins, and boil half an hour: — 
 Chop finely equal proportions of fat and lean 
 pork, and to every pound add a small tea- 
 spoonful of salt, pepper, grated lemon-peel, and 
 half that quantity of ground allspice. If these 
 ingredients appear too dry, they may be moist- 
 ened with a little wine or brandy. When made 
 with equal weight of lean beef and fat pork, 
 then pressed one whole day and smoked, these 
 sausages will keep, without being cooked, for 
 many weeks ; they are usually sliced, and eaten 
 raw. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. 
 
 MEDLAR JELLY. 
 
 Get quite ripe medlars, without bruise; let 
 them simmer gently, with water about half an 
 inch over the tops. When fit to pulp, strain the 
 fruit through a jelly-bag; if not clear the first 
 time, repeat the straining ; add to every pint 
 of juice, a pound of good loaf sugar, boil fast, 
 skimming constantly. When cooled a little, 
 pour the jelly into glasses or moulds, to be 
 turned out for dessert. The jelly should be 
 quickly boiled until it will set. 
 
 MEDLEY PIE, LEICESTERSHIRE. 
 
 (See Leicestebshibe Medley Pie.) 
 MEG MERILEES SOUP. 
 
 A soup, or stew, for the sportsman or coun- 
 try gentleman when 'game is abundant. In 
 seasons of scarcity, meat helps to form the basis 
 or stock; but for the gourmet, boil down a 
 rather old hare, with the blood, the trimmings, 
 and inferior parts of venison, and any game- 
 bones; but all should be fresh. Boil in three 
 quarts of water, with a bunch of savoury herbs, 
 parsley, two large turnips, two carrots, two 
 middle-sized onions, each stuck with a clove, a 
 dessert-spoonful of whole pepper, and one of 
 allspice. When boiled to a pulp, strain, and 
 add to the stock as great a variety of game as 
 can be procured — a young hare, or part of one 
 (neatly jointed), blackcock, partridge, phea- 
 sant, grouse, etc. — all cut, and well spiced, to 
 be fried slightly, or not, according to taste, 
 before being put into the strained stock. The 
 blood of the hare must not be omitted. Mix a 
 little broth, and boil with a good thickening of 
 rice-flour, to be afterwards stirred into the rest 
 of the stock. More seasoning will be required 
 of allspice, pepper, and salt. When boiling, 
 throw in a dozen button-onions, two sticks of 
 celery (cut into quarter-inch lengths), and a 
 small white cabbage (quartered). Simmer 
 
MEL 
 
 408 
 
 MEL 
 
 gently, until the game is done, but not over- 
 done. Any additional flavouring may be given 
 to the stew. Time, three hours to iJoil stock. 
 
 MELA BISCUITS. 
 
 Take two ounces of good chocolate, place in 
 a clean enamelled saucepan, together with 
 sufficient water to keep it from sticking. Add 
 five drops of vanilla, and allow the chocolate 
 to slowly dissolve over the fire. Whilst this 
 is dissolving, cream together two ounces of 
 fresh butter and two ounces of castor sugar, 
 then beat with a fork, afterwards adding the 
 yolk of one egg, previously beaten separately. 
 Add the chocolate slowly to this, and well stir 
 in. Beat well, then sift in two ounces of flour. 
 Beat again, then work in two more ounces of 
 flour by hand. Boll all out very lightly, stamp 
 out the biscuits, and lay them on a baking- 
 sheet covered with greased paper, and bake in 
 a brisk oven for five minutes. 
 
 MELON. 
 
 This fruit is generally used in England only 
 for dessert, but it is also frequently eaten before 
 the first course, as it is supposed to sharpen the 
 appetite. In this case, pepper and salt are the 
 only accompaniments. When for dessert, it 
 should be sent to table in a dish, tastefully 
 adorned with flowers and smaller fruit, so as 
 to afford a pleasing contrast of colours to the 
 eye. Sifted sugar and brandy are generally 
 eaten with this delicious succulent fruit. The 
 common, or musk-melon, is a herbaceous, suc- 
 culent climbing, or trailing annual, which has 
 been cultivated for the sake of, its fruit in hot 
 Eastern countries from time immemorial. The 
 water-melon is remarkable for the quantity of 
 water it contains — namely, ninety-four per cent. 
 
 MELON, COMPOTE OF. 
 
 Pare and slice the fruit, and place it in boil- 
 ing syrup, which should b^ made of white sugar, 
 water, and any light wine. When the fruit is 
 tender, lay it out in a dish, and cover it with 
 syrup. Time to boil, five to ten minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, according to the season. Sufficient, a 
 pound of sugar to half a pint of water. 
 
 MELON CREAM. 
 
 Slice a moderate-sized melon, removing the 
 rind and seeds. Put it into a pan with half a 
 pound of castor sugar, and place on the fire 
 until of the consistency of a marmalade. Rub 
 it through a sieve, return it to the fire, add 
 three-quarters of an ounce of leaf gelatine, and 
 stir until dissolved. Remove it from the fire, 
 and when cool mix in half a pint of whipped 
 cream lightly, and let it set. Garuiah with crys- 
 tallised fruit. 
 
 MELON GLACE. 
 
 Prepare a syrup as follows. Dissolve three 
 pounds of loaf sugar in a quart of water ; whisk 
 in part of the white of an egg, then set it to 
 boil gently for five minutes. Add a little cold 
 water at two different times, and strain through 
 a fine muslin into an enamelled 'stewpan. 
 Flavour with essence of vanilla. Cut a melon 
 lengthwise in good slices, removing the rind 
 and seeds, put them into the above syrup while 
 hot, and let them be covered up until next day, 
 when boil the syrup, and pour it hot over the 
 
 fruit; do this on three successive days. Lastly, 
 put the fruit into jars, and pour the hot syrup 
 over. When cold cover with bladder, and jkeep 
 in a cool place. 
 
 MELON MANGOES. 
 
 Choose small, late melons, green and sound. 
 Wipe them clean, and make a circular incision 
 round the stem, which piece remove, to scoop 
 out the pulpy part and seeds. Make a pickle 
 of salt and water that will float an egg, lay 
 the melons in a broad-bottomed pan or tub, 
 having first replaced the piece taken out, and 
 pour the pickle over them, two inches above the 
 top. In twenty-four hours take them out, and 
 drain on a sieve. Make a seasoning of a small 
 quantity of scraped horse-radish, shredded 
 shallots, equal parts of bruised mustard and 
 coriander-seed, a few peppercorns, allspice, 
 pounded mace, and cloves. Fill the hollow of 
 the melons with the spice, etc.; put in beans, 
 small onions, and cucumbers. The onions 
 should be peeled and boiled for a minute or two, 
 the beans, etc., scalded, and the piece sewed 
 on firmly with coarse thread, always remember- 
 ing to lay the cut sides up when the melons are 
 put into the jar. Boil as much vinegar as will 
 be required to cover with the seeds of the fruit. 
 Strew cloves, pepper, and put in a few capsi- 
 cums before straining over the melons. Cover 
 with a cloth, and let the jar stand near the fire 
 for an hour or so. Next dayj and for four or 
 five successive days, make the vinegar hot, add- 
 ing at the last heating about half an ounce of 
 garlic, the same of white peppercorns, ginger, 
 and cardamom seeds. Boil twenty minutes. 
 Cover when cold, and set aside for use. 
 
 MELON, PICKLED. 
 
 Take melons about the size of a large orange, 
 and before they are quite ripe. When peeled, 
 and the seeds are taken out, slice them into a 
 bowl of good vinegar, and cover up for a week or 
 more. At the end of that time drain the fruit, 
 and simmer it until tender in an enamelled pan 
 with fresh vinegar. Again drain the slices, and 
 when dry make a thin syrup by boiling together 
 a pound of sugar with a pint and a half of 
 water. Skim well, put the melons into the 
 bottles in which they are to remain, -and cover 
 with the syrup. In eight or ten days throw off 
 half of it, and fill the bottles with boiled vine- 
 gar in which the flavour of a few cloves has been 
 extracted. Let it be quite cold before being 
 added. 
 
 MELON, PRESERVED. 
 
 Pare some middle-sized, not over-ripe, melons 
 — they are better than large ones for this pre- 
 serve — take out the pulp and seeds, from which 
 press the juice. Wash the melons, and add the 
 water to the juice to be reserved for making 
 syrup. Divide the melons into eight pieces, 
 lengthwise, and soak them for twenty-four 
 hours in cold water, in which has been put salt 
 and vinegar, allowing two tea-spoonfuls of 
 white vinegar and one of salt to about every 
 half gallon of water. Let the fruit be well 
 covered and then drained; have ready a syrup 
 made with the juice from pulp and seeds, boil 
 a pound of good loaf sugar with every half- 
 pint of the water, and let it grow cold. Put the 
 pieces of melon into an enamelled pan with 
 
MEL 
 
 409 
 
 MER 
 
 the cold syrup, make it gradually hot, and when 
 ready to boil simmer and skim for about twelve 
 or fifteen minutes, when the fruit should be put 
 into a bowl carefully, and the syrup thrown 
 over. For three successive days pour off the 
 syrup, and boil for two minutes on the third 
 and last day. Add an ounce of bruised ginger, 
 arrange the melon in large wide-mouthed glass 
 bottles, pour the syrup over, and when cold tie 
 down with bladder. Time, a quarter of an hour 
 to boil the syrup. 
 
 MELON WATER ICE. 
 
 To make a quart of melou-water ice, skin and 
 pound the whole of a ripe melon, and pass it 
 through a sieve. Mix with a pint of juice a 
 syrup made of a quart of water and a pound 
 and a half of sugar and the juice of a lemon. 
 Freeze in the usual manner. 
 
 MELTED BUTTER SAUCE. 
 
 Rub two tea-spoonfuls of flour in four ounces 
 of butter until perfectly smooth in a saucepan, 
 put it on the fire, add very slowly half a pint 
 of milk until all is nicely blended. Allow it to 
 come to the boil; add pepper and salt to taste, 
 and serve. Probable cost, 8d. 
 
 MELTED BUTTER SAUCE (another way). 
 
 Put the desired quantity of butter into an 
 enamelled saucepan ; heat it slowly on the 
 range until it looks frothy; add a squeeze of 
 lemon and a little cayenne, and serve in a 
 sauce tureen. This sauce may be served with 
 fish, dressed vegetables, asparagus, artichokes, 
 etc. 
 MELTON MOWBRAY SOUP. 
 
 Fillet two medium-sized haddocks with the 
 skin on; lay them on a buttered stewpan or 
 saute-pan previously sprinkled with six finely- 
 chopped shallots, a table-spoonful of minced 
 parsley, and a pinch of finely-powdered mace. 
 Take the heads, bones, and trimmings, and set 
 them in a separate saucepan over the fire for 
 a few minutes, then add two quarts of good 
 white stock; simmer for half an hour. Blanch 
 and beard fifty oysters ; add their liquor to the 
 stock, and the oysters to the fillets ; thicken the 
 soup with roux (see Eotrx, White), and when 
 well skimmed add it to the fillets previously 
 slightly fried. Let it boil five minutes; add 
 half a pint of Madeira, the juice of half a 
 lemon, and season with cayenne to taste. 
 Probable cost, 6s. Sufiicient for twelve persons. 
 
 MELTS, RAGOUT OF FISH. 
 
 Wash the melts in cold water, and then steep 
 them in boiling water to which some vinegar 
 has been added. Remove the melts from the 
 water, dry them on a cloth, and cook for a 
 quarter of an hour with parsley, chives, salt, 
 and pepper, in as much well-flavoured veal 
 stock, as will barely cover them. A glass of 
 white wine may be added if approved. Take 
 out the melts when cooked, evaporate to the 
 consistency of a sauce the liquid in which they 
 were cooked, and thicken with two ounces of 
 butter, mixed with a little flour. Before sending 
 this dish to table, remember to squeeze the juice 
 of a lemon into it. This ragout may also be pre- 
 pared by another method. Cut into small pieces 
 two onions, one carrot, and half a parsnip,; fry 
 
 th^m in butter with parsley, chives, pepper, 
 salt, and nutmeg. When nearly ready add a 
 little flour, and mix it well with the other 
 materials. Stir in gradually three-quarters of a 
 pint of unflavoured stock, or water, and half 
 a glassful of white wine. Boil the materials in 
 a stewpan over a steady fire until they are re- 
 duced one half. Now strain off the clear liquid, 
 and simmer the melts in it for about twenty 
 minutes. When about to send to table, mix 
 with it the yolks of two eggs beaten up with 
 cream ; simmer the whole at a gentle heat, to 
 thicken it ; and add the juice of a lemon. 
 
 MEOPHAM CREAM. 
 
 Put a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar into 
 a saucepan with a table-spoonful of water, stir 
 with a wooden spoon over the fire until it is a 
 clear syrup thick enough to coat a mould, then 
 pour it in and turn slowly round and round 
 until the mould is coated all over. Break three 
 eggs into a basin, beat well, add a pint and a 
 half of boiling milk gradually with four ounces 
 of castor sugar. Put this into the mould, to- 
 gether with two and a half ounces of sweet 
 almonds, blanched and chopped. Cover the top 
 with buttered paper, stand the mould in a tin 
 of boiling water which reaches nearly to the 
 top, and cook in a sharp oven for twenty-five 
 minutes. A table-spoonful of chartreuse added 
 to the custard is a great improvement. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 3d. 
 
 MERINGUE OF APPLES. 
 
 Take twelve apples (russet or Ribston pippins 
 are the best, as they are less watery than others), 
 cut them in quarters, take out the cores, and 
 slice. Place them in a stewpan, and stir over a 
 brisk fire for a quarter of an hour with six 
 ounces of butter and a quarter of a pound of 
 pounded sugar. When cool, add two table- 
 spoonfuls of jam, according to taste. Place the 
 whole in the form of a pyramid in the centre 
 of a dish, and cover thickly with the whites of 
 three eggs, whipped to a firm cream with a 
 quarter of a pound of pounded sugar. Lay this 
 mixture on, sprinkle more sugar over, and bake. 
 When done, the meringue should have acquired 
 a pale yellow colour. Time, about ten minutes 
 to bake. Probable cost. Is. 7d., exclusive of 
 jam. 
 
 MERINGUE OF RED CURRANTS. 
 
 Pick a pound and a half of red currants, and 
 put them into a syrup made of one pound of loaf 
 sugar, a small cupful of water, and two table- 
 spoonfuls of lemon-juice. Simmer gently for 
 ten minutes, then turn them into a dish. When 
 cold, whisk the whites of four eggs with two 
 ounces of castor sugar, and pile this upon the 
 currants. Put it into a quick oven to set and 
 slightly brown, which will only take three or 
 four minutes. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 
 MERINGUE OF RICE. 
 
 Take six ounces of rice, put it in a quart of 
 milk, and set it over a slow fire to simmer till 
 the rice swells. Add half a pint of good cream, 
 and let it simmer till it gets thick. Then take 
 it off the fire. Have ready six ratafia biscuits 
 dried and crumbled small, a quarter of a pound 
 of castor sugar, and the grated peel of a lemon. 
 Mix all well together with the rice, and let it 
 
MER 
 
 410 
 
 MIL 
 
 stand by the fire. Whip the whites of three 
 eggfs to a froth, stir it quickly into the rice, turn 
 it into the dish it will be served in, and put into 
 the oven to brown. Sprinkle sugar over, and 
 serve. Probable cost. Is. 8d. 
 
 MERINGUE PUDDING. 
 
 Pour a quarter of a pint of hot milk over the 
 same measure of bread-crumbs, one ounce of 
 butter, and a lump of sugar that has been 
 rasped on the rind of a lemon. When cool, beat 
 in the yolk of an egg, and bake in a shallow dish 
 till set and a pale brown ; spread a little black 
 currant or other fruit jelly on top. Beat the 
 white of the egg, add a tea-spoonful of castor 
 sugar and a few drops of lemon-juice, spread it 
 over the pudding, and return it to the oven for 
 a few minutes to become firm. Probable cost, 
 8d. 
 
 MERINGUES. 
 
 Take of finely-powdered sugar one pound, mix 
 it lightly and expeditiously with ten well- 
 whisked whites of eggs — these should be a 
 firm froth. When the sugar has been all put 
 in, fill a table-spoon with the paste, and smooth 
 it with another spoon to the desired egg-like 
 shape, always remembering that after the sugar 
 has been added to the white of egg, the batter 
 should not be worked over much or it will be 
 made soft, and it will be difficult to mould the 
 meringues. Drop them separately, and about 
 two inches apart, on strips of firm white paper, 
 and keep them well moulded with the spoon. 
 Dust them with sifted sugar, let them he for 
 about two minutes, shake the loose sugar from 
 them, place the strips of paper on baking 
 boards, and bake the meringues in a moderate 
 oven until of a light' fawn colour ; if they are 
 too much coloured their appearance will be 
 spoiled. When sufficiently coloured and a 
 little cooled, pass a thin knife under each, to 
 slip them from the paper, scoop out a little of 
 the soft part, and put them back in the oven 
 to dry. Before using, fill the hollow with 
 whipped cream, and put two meringues together. 
 To secure variety, finely-chopped almonds or 
 currants may be sprinkled over the top, and the 
 insides may be filled with firm jelly or a rich 
 preserve. Serve piled high. Probable cost, 2s. 
 Sufficient for two dishes. 
 
 MIDDLETON PUDDING. 
 
 Make a rich batter with two table-spoonfuls of 
 flour, a pint of new milk, a little salt, two des- 
 sert-spoonfuls of good moist sugar,' and the 
 whole of eight eggs, well beaten, first separ- 
 ately and then together. Flavour with nutmeg 
 and the grated rind of a lemon. Boil in a 
 floured cloth, leaving space to swell. Serve 
 with wine or other pudding sauce. Time, two 
 hours to boil. Probable cost. Is. 4d. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 MILAN BISCUITS. 
 
 Into a pound and a, half of flour rub four 
 ounces of butter, and add four ounces of sifted 
 sugar. Mix with two well-beaten eggs a wine- 
 glassful of brandy, and moisten the whole with 
 this. When the paste is thinly rolled, cut it into 
 any fanciful shapes with tin cutters. Brush the 
 biscuits lightly over with egg, and bake in a 
 quick oven for ten minutes. Probable cost, lOd. 
 
 per pound. Sufficient for two pounds and a half 
 of biscuits. 
 MILANESE CREAM. 
 
 Dissolve an ounce of isinglass in a quarter of 
 a pint of water, and beat until light the jolks of 
 eight eggs. Sweeten a pint of fresh milk with 
 four ounces of sifted sugar, and make it hot, 
 when stir in the beaten yolks, and continue to 
 stir over a slow fire until the mixture becomes 
 thick, but on no account should it boil. Strain 
 through a fine sieve, and add the dissolved isin- 
 glass, and a cupful of double cream. Flavour to 
 taste with a small glass of rum, or liqueur- 
 maraschino or Cura9oa. Pour the cream into a 
 mould, well-oiled, and let it stand for three 
 hours in a cool place to set. Sufficient for one 
 mould. 
 
 MILANESE ICE CREAM. 
 
 Beat up the yolks of two eggs with a pint of 
 cream, and half a pound of finely-sifted sugar; 
 add the mixture to two ounces of Naples bis- 
 cuits reduced to powder in half a pint of milk. 
 Put all into a bright stewpan, and stir until the 
 mixture is as thick as an ordinary custard, when 
 it may be strained through a sieve. Add a glass 
 of sherry wine when frozen, and then put it into 
 a mould. Probable cost, 2s. per quart. Time, 
 a few minutes to boil the custard. Sufficient 
 for seven or eight persons. 
 
 MILANESE RAGOUT. 
 
 This ragoiit is used for garnishing purposes. 
 Tongue, ham, chicken, game, with truffles, 
 mushrooms, and macaroni are cooked and cut oft 
 as nearly of a uniform size as the different in- 
 gredients will permit, about an inch in length 
 and a quarter of an inch broad. They are 
 warmed up in white sauce with a mixture of 
 grated Parmesan, and seasoned slightly with 
 nutmeg and pepper. 
 
 MILANESE SAUCE. 
 
 Dissolve a lump of butter in a stewpan, and 
 brown in it some button-mushrooms chopped 
 finely, a couple of anchovies washed and boned, 
 and three or four shallots, which, with the 
 anchovies, should be cut small. Shake all well 
 round the pan, and stir in a table-spoonful of 
 browned flour, then moisten with half a pint or 
 more of good stock, and add a wine-glassful of 
 Marsala and caper- vinegar mixed, some capers, 
 a small pinch of cayenne, a little salt, and the 
 half of a tea-spoonful of made mustard. Sim- 
 mer the sauce until the shallots, etc., are tender. 
 Use as required for salmon cutlets, etc. Time, 
 twenty minutes to simmer. 
 
 MILITARY PUDDINGS. 
 
 Mix well together half a pound of bread- 
 crumbs, half a pound of moist sugar, and half 
 a pound of finely-chopped suet. Mince the 
 rind of a good-sized lemon, squeeze the juice out, 
 and stir it into the mixture. Place the pud- 
 dings in small buttered cups or mo«lds, and 
 bake for half an hour in a tolerably quick oven. 
 If preferred, military puddings may be boiled; 
 if so, they must be made into small balls. In 
 either case serve with lemon or wine sauce. 
 Probable cost with sauce. Is. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons, or to fill six or seven 
 cups. 
 
MIL 
 
 411 
 
 MIL 
 
 MILK, ADULTERATION AND RICHNESS OF, 
 TESTED. 
 
 For testing the richness of milk a very simple 
 instrument has been invented, known as the 
 lactometer, or galactometer. It consists of a 
 glass tube graduated to a hundred parts. New 
 milk is poured in as far as the top of the gradu- 
 ated part and allowed to stand. When the 
 cream has completely separated, the value of its 
 quality is shown by the number of parts in the 
 hundred which it fills. Another form of instru- 
 ment has been invented by DoefEel. In it we 
 have a small hydrometer, with a scale two inches , 
 in length marked off into twenty degrees; the 
 zero being placed at the point where the instru- 
 ment -sinks in water, and the twentieth degree 
 corresponding with the density 1'0383. Doenel's 
 instrument is much in use on the Continent. 
 Fourteen degrees is held to show milk unadul- 
 terated with water. 
 
 MILK, ALMOND. 
 
 (See Almond Milk.) 
 
 MILK-AND-BUTTER CAKES. 
 
 Take three-quarters of » pound of flour, half 
 a, pound of butter, half a pound of sugar, and 
 one tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg. Cut up the 
 butter in the flour ; add the sugar and spices by 
 degrees. Stir in as much milk as will make a 
 dough. Knead it well, roll it out in sheets, cut 
 in cakes, butter your tins, lay the cakes on so 
 as not to touch, and bake in a moderate 
 oven. 
 
 MILK AND CREAM, TO PRESERVE. 
 
 Add one ounce of sugar to one pint of milk, 
 and boil it down to one-half. Run it into small 
 bottles, and put them in a pan of cold water 
 placed on a good fire. Allow the water to boil 
 for an hour, and then, while still hot, close the 
 mouths of the bottles with very good and tight- 
 fitting corks, and let the contents become cold. 
 When cold, dip the corks and necks of the bot- 
 tles in a ladle containing melted sealing-wax or 
 common pitch, so as to render the corks per- 
 fectly air-tight. Cream is preserved by evapor- 
 ating it down to a quarter of its previous bulk, 
 without adding sugar, and then preserving it in 
 bottles as directed for milk. The bottles con- 
 taining it should, however, only be boiled for 
 three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 MILK AND EGGS. 
 
 (See Eggs and Milk.) 
 
 MILK BISCUITS. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of butter, one 
 quart of milk, one gill of yeast, salt according to 
 taste, and as much flour as will form the dough. 
 Stir flour into the milk so as to form a very 
 thick batter, and add the yeast ; this is called a 
 sponge. This should be done in the evening. 
 In the morning cut up the butter, and set it 
 near the -fire where it will dissolve, but not get 
 hot; pour the melted butter into the sponge, 
 then stir in enough flour to form a dough; 
 knead it well, and set it on one side to rise. 
 As soon as it is perfectly light, butter youi: 
 tins, mark out the dough in small cakes, and 
 let them rise. When they are light, bake them 
 in a very q^nick oven, take them out, brush the 
 tops over with water, and send them to table hot. 
 
 MILK BLANCMANGE. 
 
 Pour a pint of milk into an enamelled sauce- 
 pan, together with an ounce of isinglass, a 
 tea-spoonful of rose-water, and h table-spoonful 
 of sugar. Stir gently over a clear fire till it 
 nearly comes to boiling point. Bemove from 
 the fire, and stir till nearly cool, then pour into 
 a buttered mould. Put in a cool place; turn 
 out next day, and place little mounds of red 
 currant jelly round it. 
 
 MILK BREAKFAST CAKES. 
 
 A batter of flour, milk, and yeast should be 
 made overnight for these cakes. Half a pint of 
 yeast and a quart of milk made warm will 
 moisten half a dozen pounds of flour. When 
 risen next morning (the batter should be covered 
 and set by the fireplace during the night), beat 
 into it four or five ounces of butter melted, 
 knead and make into small cakes, using as much 
 flour as will be necessary to prevent the dough 
 sticking to the fingers. Put the cakes as they 
 are made on a baking-tin before the fire, while 
 the oven is getting the required heat, then 
 bake ; they will take about twenty minutes in a 
 hot oven. Send them to table quickly, well but- 
 tered and hot. Probable cost, 2s. 
 
 MILK COFFEE, OR CAfC AU LAIT. 
 
 Cafe au lait — the favourite beverage at the 
 breakfast-tables of our Continental neighbours — 
 is the most simple of preparations, and yet is so 
 badly made in most English households that it 
 has become a national reproach. A very little 
 care will enable the mistress of a family to have 
 as good coifee on her table as can be procured in 
 Paris. To have coffee in perfection it should be 
 roasted and ground just before it is used; the 
 former is not always practicable, but the grind- 
 ing can easily be performed daily by the aid of 
 a small handmill, which is an indispensable 
 article in every kitchen. Do not use cheap 
 coffee. Mocha is the best. No coffee-pot 
 answers better than an earthenware coffee-pot 
 with three strainers. Place the ground coffee 
 under the top strainer, and above the two others ; 
 now replace the top one, and pour over quite 
 boiling water in the proportion of three cupfuls 
 of water to one cupful of the powder. When it 
 bubbles up through the strainer, close the lid, 
 and as soon as the whole of the water has passed 
 through, the coffee is made. Boil the milk, and 
 pour into the cups in the proportion of half 
 coffee and half milk. Sweeten with crushed 
 sugar-candy, or loaf sugar, as moist sugar 
 destroys the delicate aroma of the coffee. Suf- 
 ficient, an ounce of coffee to three-quarters of a 
 pint of water. (See also Coppee, Breakfast.) 
 
 MILK, COMPOSITION OF. 
 
 As a form of food which we can regard as a 
 type of all others, there 'is none so perfect as 
 milk. " It really represents," says Dr. Lankes- 
 ter, " all the food of which we partake which is 
 not medicinal." That milk is a type of all food 
 is found in the fact that the young of all the 
 higher mammalia are fed on this food for several 
 months, many of them for above a year, and get 
 no other article of diet. During this period 
 they grow very rapidly, and increase in size ; 
 consequently, they must have obtained all that 
 which constitutes their muscle, their nerve, their 
 
MIL 
 
 412 
 
 MIL 
 
 bone, and every other tissue, from the milk they 
 take as food. So that milk must contain the 
 essentials of all food. As to the exact composi- 
 tion of milk, one pound of cow's milk con- 
 tains: — 
 
 ozs. 
 
 grs. 
 
 1. Water .... 13 
 
 333 
 
 2. Caseine .... 
 
 350 
 
 3. Butter .... 
 
 245 
 
 4. Sugar .... 
 
 315 
 
 5. Mineral Matter ... 
 
 70 
 
 The same weight of ass's milk contains 
 
 : — 
 
 ozs. 
 
 grs. 
 
 1. Water . . . .14 
 
 76 
 
 2. Caseine .... 
 
 140 
 
 3. Butter .... 
 
 105 
 
 4. Sugar .... 
 
 420 
 
 5. Mineral Matter ... 
 
 35 
 
 MILK, CONDENSED. 
 
 Condensed milk is a most useful preparation 
 for cooking purposes, or for milk puddings of 
 any kind. It is also good in tea or coffee. The 
 chief advantage that it has over fresh milk is, 
 that it does not so readily turn sour, and that 
 it contains so much sugar that little more, if 
 any, need be used with it. It is valuable in the 
 nursery, as it is well known to correspond with 
 the mother's milk better than fresh cow's luilk, 
 so that when an infant needs partial feeding, 
 it is not at all upset by the process. To stewed 
 fruits it is a very pleasant accompaniment, and 
 is an economical substitute for cream and sugar. 
 Probable cost, 5d. to 8d. per tin. 
 
 MILK, FLAVOURED, FOR SWEET DISHES. 
 
 Bore a hole in one end of a fresh cocoa-nut, 
 pour off the milk, and break the shell with a 
 hammer. Clear the nut from the outer brown 
 rind, and grate the white part very finely. Put 
 it into an enamelled saucepan, with a quart of 
 new milk to every three ounces. Simmer very 
 gently, that the milk may not be reduced in 
 quantity. Strain, and press the nut as dry as 
 possible. Add the milk from the nut, if quite 
 good, to this, and use it for blancmange, cus- 
 tards, or sweets of any kind. Time, three- 
 quarters of an hour to an hour. Probable cost 
 of nuts, 4d. to 6d. each. Sufficient, three ounces 
 of cocoa-nut to a quart of milk. 
 
 MILK JELLY. 
 
 Put into a saucepan one pint of milk, half an 
 ounce of sheet gelatine, one and a half ounces 
 of castor sugar, and a strip of lemon-rind. 
 Heat gently until the gelatine is dissolved, 
 then strain. Let this cool in a basin until 
 it begins to set, then place it in a mould. 
 When firm turn out and serve. Probable 
 cost, 6d. 
 
 MILK, KEEPING IN SUMMER OF CREAM OR. 
 
 Milk that has been scalded, and from which 
 the excellent Devonshire cream is produced, will 
 keep sweet longer than a pan of raw milk; 
 hence, to scald milk is the best way to preserve 
 it sweet. The cream, when skimmed, with the 
 addition of enough powdered white sugar to 
 make it tolerably sweet, may be kept two days ; 
 but in large dairy farms, where the cream is 
 plentiful, each day's produce should be turned 
 into butter. 
 
 MILK, LEMONADE. 
 
 Steep the thin yellow rind of two lemons in 
 their own juice for twelve hours. Strain the 
 juice through muslin to keep back any of the 
 pulp and seeds. Sweeten with syrup in the 
 proportion of two pounds of good loaf sugar — 
 or powdered sugar of the same quantity may be 
 used — to this quantity of lemon-juice, and add 
 a bottle of sherry or made white wine, and 
 from two to three quarts of good new milk, 
 heated to the boiling point. It should be 
 strained through the usual jelly-bag until 
 clear. When cold this lemonade will be 
 found refreshing and invigorating during 
 hot weather. Probable cost, 28. Id., exclusive 
 of wine. 
 
 MILK PORRIDGE. 
 
 Put into an enamelled saucepan half a pint of 
 whole groats, on which pour a pint and a half of 
 cold water. Boil well for two or three hours, 
 adding more water if too thick, and strain 
 through a colander or sieve. This porridge may 
 be kept two or three days, and when wanted 
 boiling milk should be added. Probable cost, 
 without milk, 3d. 
 
 MILK PORRIDGE (another way). 
 
 The following is a quicker and easier way of 
 preparing' porridge for children's breakfasts, 
 suppers, etc. Mix a dessert-spoonful of the 
 medium oatmeal to a smooth paste with cold 
 milk. Pour on half a pint of boiling milk, and 
 stir the mixture over the fire till it tbickens. 
 Sweeten it and serve hot. 
 
 MILK PUNCH. 
 
 This agreeable summer drink is made in the 
 following manner. Put into a bottle of rum or 
 brandy the thinly-pared rinds of three Seville 
 oranges and three lemons. Cork tightly for two 
 days. Hub off on two pounds of lump sugar the 
 rinds of six lemons, squeeze the juice from the 
 whole of the fruit over the two pounds of su^ar, 
 add three quarts of boiling water, one of boiling 
 milk, half a tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg, and 
 mix all thoroughly well together until the sugar 
 is dissolved. Pour in the rum, stir, and strain 
 until clear; bottle closely. It is important in 
 making punch that all the ingredients be per- 
 fectly blended together, consequently too much 
 attention cannot be paid to the mixing. Prob- 
 able cost, 6s. 
 
 MILK PUNCH (another way). 
 (See Punch, Milk.) 
 
 MILK RICE. 
 
 A wholesome dish, suitable for children. When 
 milk is scarce, the rice is first boiled tender in 
 water, drained from it, and simmered until 
 quite done in milk, but it is best boiled wholly 
 in milk. A quarter of a pound of rice will 
 thicken a quart of milk. Simmer gently with 
 cinnamon or lemon-peel, and add, if liked, a 
 small quantity of very finely-shredded suet. 
 The sugar should not be put in while sim- 
 mering, but when about to be served sweeten 
 to taste. Milk rice is very liable to burn, 
 therefore stir often. Time, about an hour 
 to simmer. Probable cost, rice, 3d. per 
 pound. 
 
MIL 
 
 413 
 
 MIL 
 
 MILK ROLLS. 
 
 To eight ounces of dry flour mix a little, salt, 
 and two ounces or less of butter; add half an 
 ounce of German yeast, and an egg beaten with 
 a small cup of milk, which should be warm, but 
 not hot. When mixed to a firm dough, cover it 
 up well in the same pan to rise, in a warm place, 
 and when risen make into rolls and bake quickly. 
 The rolls may be brushed over with egg before 
 they are put on the baking-tin. Time, a quarter 
 of an hour to bake. Probable cost, 6d. Suf- 
 ficient for six rolls. 
 MILK SAGO. 
 
 Boil slowly for half an hour a tea-cupful of 
 Bago in a quart of new milk, or, if preferred of 
 less consistency, take rather more milk. This 
 makes a most nutritious and agreeable dish for 
 invalids and children, and may be sweetened 
 and flavoured according to taste. It is well to 
 cleanse the sago in hot water before using. Prob- 
 able cost, about 6d. a quart. 
 MILK SAUCE OR CREAM SAUCE. 
 
 Take the yolks of two eggs, remove the specks, 
 then beat them well and add a table-spoonful of 
 powdered white sugar, and sufficient vanilla, 
 ratafia, lemon-peelj or any other substance that 
 may be preferred, to flavour the whole. Pour 
 this into half a pint of cream or milk, set it 
 over the fire, and make it very hot, without let- 
 ting it boil, or the sauce will curdle. Sufficient 
 for six or seven persons. Time to make, ten 
 minutes. Probable cost, with cream, Is. 4d. 
 MILK SCONES. 
 
 Mix in a bowl a pound and a half of flour, a 
 heaped tea-apoonful of carbonate of soda, the 
 same of cream of tartar, a pint of sour milk, 
 and a little salt. Knead a little with the hands, 
 roll it out, and bake in a quick oven for ten 
 minutes. 
 MILK SOUP. 
 
 Peel two large potatoes and the white part 
 only of one leek. If a leek cannot be had, a 
 small .onion may be used instead. Boil until 
 soft in a quart of water, add a slice of butter 
 and a little pepper and salt. Rub all through a 
 colander with the back of a wooden spoon. Mix 
 a pint of milk with the water in which the vege- 
 tables were boiled, add the pulp, and boil the 
 soup again, -stirring it to keep it from burning. 
 Sprinkle in a table-spoonful of crushed tapioca, 
 boil fifteen minutes longer, and serve at once. 
 Vermicelli or any Italian paste may, if liked, 
 be used instead of tapioca. The French stir in 
 pounded cocoa-nut or almonds just before serv- 
 ing. All white soups should be warmed in a 
 vessel plafffed in another of boiling water. Time, 
 an hour to prepare. Sufficient, two quarts of 
 milk for eight persons. 
 MILK SUET. 
 
 Put a pint of new milk into a stewpan over a 
 slow fire, and add an ounce of mutton-suet cut 
 like shavings, the rind of a quarter of a lemon, 
 a small stick of cinnamon, and as much good 
 white sugar as will sweeten. When the suet has 
 dissolved, and the flavour of lemon and cinna- 
 mon is gained, it is ready. Strain and use hot. 
 This milk is considered very nourishing and 
 efiicacioua in cases of hoarseness or loss of voice. 
 Time, half an hour or more. Probable cost, 4d. 
 
 MILK SUGARED, OR LAIT SUCRE. 
 
 A cold drink for evening entertainments, 
 much used for children in France, and made by 
 simply boiling milk with lemon-rind and sugar. 
 When the flavour of lemon is gained, it is 
 allowed to cool, and is ready for use. 
 
 MILK TOAST. 
 
 Slice some bread, toast it of a nice light brown 
 on both sides. Boil a pint of milk; mix to- 
 gether two tea-spoonfuls of flour in a little cold 
 water; stir this into the boiling milk. Let it 
 boil about one minute; then add a little salt, 
 and stir into it two ounces of butter. Dip the 
 toast in the milk, place it on a dish, and pour 
 the remainder of the milk over it. The toast 
 may be made much richer by increasing the 
 quantity of butter. 
 
 MILK, TO PRESERVE. 
 
 Pour the milk into a bottle, and place the 
 vessel up to its neck in a saucepanful of water, 
 which is then to be put on the fire, and allowed 
 to boil for a quarter of an hour. The bottle is 
 now to be removed from the water, and carefully 
 closed with a good and tight-fitting cork, so as 
 to render it as air-tight as possible. Milk which 
 has been preserved by this process has been kept 
 for more than a year without turning sour. 
 Milk may also be preserved by putting a table- 
 spoonful of horse-radish scraped in shreds into a 
 panful. When milk thus treated is kept in a 
 cool place, it will be found to remain good for 
 several days, even in hot weather. 
 
 MILK TWISTS. 
 
 Put one ounce and a half of self-raising flour 
 into a basin, add half a tea-cupful of salt, and 
 mix with milk to form rather a stiff paste. Roll 
 out, and make into twists or plaits. Bake in a 
 brisk oven for ten minutes, then brush over 
 with a, little milk. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 MILK WHEY, CLARIFIED. 
 
 To six pints of milk add enough rennet to 
 turn it ; leave it in a warm place ; press out the 
 whey, and strain. Clarify the whey by adding 
 the whites of three eggs and a pinch of cream 
 of tartar. Boil, and filter through paper. Prob- 
 able cost, Is. 4d. 
 
 MILL, CHOCOLATE. 
 
 {See Chocolate Mill.) 
 
 MILLE FRUIT ICE-CREAM. 
 
 Rasp two lemons, take the juice of them, a 
 glass of wine, one of grape-syrup, a pint of 
 thick cream, and eight ounces of powdered 
 sugar. Mix and freeze, and when sufficiently 
 congealed, add four ounces of preserved fruits, 
 which cut small, and mix well with the ice. 
 Let the cream remain in the ice until wanted. 
 Probable cost, 3s., exclusive of wine, etc. Suf- 
 ficient for a quart mould. 
 
 MILLE FRUIT WATER-ICE. 
 
 To half a pint of water and a pint of clarified 
 sugar, add half a pint of sherry and grape- 
 syrup, mixed — there should be two-thirds of the 
 latter — the strained juice of five lemons and of a 
 large orange, and the grated rinds of two lemons. 
 Mix, and set the mixture to freeze. When suf- 
 ficiently congealed, put some preserved fruit- 
 about four ounces to this quantity will be 
 
MIL 
 
 414 
 
 MIN 
 
 enough — amongst tlie ice, and finisli the freez- 
 ing. Large fruit should be cut small. 
 
 MILLET PUDDING. 
 
 Like sago and other small seeds, millet should 
 be washed before boiling. Simmer over a slow 
 fire, stirring carefully, four ounces of millet, in 
 nearly, a quart of milk. Flavour with the thin 
 rind of lemon, cinnamon, or nutmeg. When 
 cooled, sweeten and stir in four beaten eggs. 
 Fill a well-buttered pie-dish, and bake; or tiie 
 pudding may be boiled, in which case more 
 millet for the same quantity of milk must be 
 used. Boil in a basin, well buttered. Time, 
 about an hour to bake; to boil, an hour and a 
 half; fifteen minutes to simmer. Sufiicient for 
 five or six persons. 
 
 MINCE, BRANDY. 
 
 (See Brandy Mince fob Pies.) 
 
 MINCED COLLOPS. 
 
 Shred a shallot and part of an onion as small 
 as may be, and brown them both in a stewpan, 
 with a good lump of butter ; let them not acquire 
 much colour. Have ready minced a pound of 
 the fillet or a rump-steak. Add it to the 
 browned onion, with a small cup of stock, a 
 table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, or a few 
 button mushrooms, also minced, and a little 
 parsley and thyme tied together. Season to 
 taste with salt and pepper. Bring it to the 
 boil, and simmer gentljr for a few minutes. 
 Serve hot, with toasted sippets round the dish. 
 Probable cost. Is. 4d. per pound. Suflcient 
 for two or three persons. (See also Beef Col- 
 lops, Minced.) 
 
 minced eggs. 
 
 Boil five eggs hard and cool them in water : 
 remove the shells and chop the eggs; boil half 
 a pint of new milk, add three-quarters of an 
 ounce of flour and one ounce of butter mixed 
 together; chop up and add half an ounce of 
 parsley, season with salt and pepper; boil for 
 five minutes, then add the eggs, and shake well 
 together until the whole is thoroughly heated. 
 Do not stir it, and garnish with toasted sippets 
 and lemon. This dish is a great favourite on 
 the tables of vegetarians. 
 
 MINCE FOR PATTIES. 
 
 Warm, in a quarter of a pint of good gravy 
 well thickened, two table-spoonfuls of ham, four 
 of the white part of a fowl, one egg (hard 
 boiled), the whole to be finely minced. Add, 
 pounded, half a blade of mace, two cloves, and 
 pepper and salt to taste. When hot through, 
 fill the pdtty-cases, which should have been 
 previously baked. Mince for patties may be 
 made of any description of cold meat, poultry, 
 shell-fiah, etc. Probable cost, 9d. The above 
 quantities are sufficient to fill six patties. 
 MINCEMEAT. 
 
 Mix well together half a pound of raisins, 
 stoned and chopped small; half a pound of cur- 
 rants, washed; half a pound of chopped beef- 
 suet; ten or a dozen apples., peeled, cored, and 
 chopped; a quarter of a pound of lean beef, 
 without skin or fat, boiled and chopped; one 
 nutmeg, grated, and a tea-spoonful of allspice ; 
 a quarter or half a pound of candied peel, ac- 
 cording to the richness desired, chopped. Put 
 
 the ingredients into an earthen jar with a close- 
 fitting cover, and pour a glass of brandy over 
 them. Stir up these ingredients froto time to 
 time. Mincemeat is best made a fortnight or 
 three weeks before it is wanted. 
 
 MINCEMEAT (another way). 
 
 Procure a neat's-tongue; parboil it; take a 
 pound and a half of it, and chop it very fine ; 
 shred finely a pound and a half of good beef 
 suet; stone a pound of raisins; pare and core 
 five apples, and take the thin rind of one lemon ; 
 chop up the three last-mentioned ingredients 
 very fine, and mix them in a large enamelled 
 pan. Add a pound of sifted loaf-sugar, two 
 pounds of currants, well cleaned, an ounce of 
 cloves, finely beaten, the juice of three lemons, 
 and a table-spoonful of orange-flower water. 
 Mix all these ingredients thoroughly together, 
 and keep them in a covered pan until required. 
 
 MINCEMEAT (another way). 
 
 Take one pound of tender beef, either baked 
 or boiled, and chop it very fine. Chop, also, 
 one pound of fresh suet, one pound of apples, 
 one pound of raisins (Valencias, stoned), one 
 pound of currants, two ounces of candied lemon- 
 peel, two ounces of orange-peel, a little of the 
 rind of a fresh lemon chopped fine, a quarter of 
 a pound of moist sugar, a dessert-spoonful of 
 salt, and half an ounce of sweet spice. Mix the 
 whole well together, and it will be ready for use. 
 
 MINCEMEAT FRITTERS. 
 
 Beat well three eggs, separating the yolks 
 from the whites, moisten a large table-spoonful 
 of flour with them, and when the batter is 
 rubbed smooth add eight ounces of mincemeat 
 and part of the juice of a lemon. Fry in boil- 
 ing lard, and put the fritters on paper before 
 the fire for a, minute, then serve hot on a 
 napkin. These fritters should be made small. 
 Drop the mixture from a dessert-spoon into the 
 frying-pan. Bread-crumbs may be used instead 
 of flour — about two ounces and a half will be the 
 quantity for three eggs. They should be very 
 finely prepared. Time, six to seven minutes to 
 fry. Probable cost, lOd. 
 
 MINCEMEAT, OLD-FASHIONED. 
 
 Take a pound of beef, a pound of apples, two 
 pounds of suet, two pounds of sugar, two pounds 
 of currants, one pound of candied lemon or 
 orange-peel, a quarter of a pound of citron, and 
 an ounce of fine spices; mix all these together, 
 with half an ounce of salt, and the rinds of.six 
 lemons shredded finely. See that the ingredients 
 are thoroughly incorporated, and add brandy or 
 wine according to taste. » 
 
 MINCEMEAT ROYAL. 
 
 To an ounce of clarified butter add the yolks 
 of four eggs, and beat in two table-spoonfuls of 
 pounded sugar, with the grated rind and 
 strained juice of a large lemon. Mix these in- 
 gredients with half a pound of rich mincemeat, 
 without beef, and nearly fill the patty-pans 
 with the mixture. Put them into a moderately 
 quick oven to set. Ice them with the whites of 
 the eggs, previously beaten to snow, with a 
 quarter of a pound of pounded loaf sugar, and 
 place them in the oven again until they are of a 
 nice rich brown. 
 
MIH 
 
 415 
 
 MIN 
 
 MINCEMEAT, WITH BEEF. 
 
 Stone and cut two pounds of raisins (Valen- 
 cias), wash and dry two pounds of currants, 
 mince one pound of lean beef, free from skin 
 and gristle, chop two pounds of beef suet very 
 fine, add two pounds of moist sugar. Cut into 
 small pieces six ounces of mixed candied peel — 
 orange, citron, and lemon. Pare and core a 
 pound of apples, grate a small nutmeg and the 
 rind of two lemons, squeeze out the juice of one, 
 add a full tea-spoonful of allspice, and a pinch of 
 salt. Mix these ingredients well together, pour 
 over them a large wine-glassful of brandy ; press 
 tightly into an earthen jar and exclude the air. 
 Mincemeat is best made a fortnight before it is 
 wanted. When about to use it, take from the 
 bottom of the jar. Probable cost, 6s. for this 
 quantity. 
 
 MINCEMEAT, WITHOUT BEEF. 
 
 Weigh a pound of good beef suet after chop- 
 ping it as finely as possible, also a pound of 
 stoned raisins; cut them across, but do not 
 chop. Well wash and dry half a pound of cur- 
 rants, and pare, core, and chop the same weight 
 of rusSet apples — these are best for this purpose, 
 as they are less watery. Add two pounds of 
 powdered sugar, a quarter of a pound of mixed 
 candied peel — lemon, citron, and orange 
 (minced) — a little powdered clove, two ounces -sf 
 orange-marmalade, and mix the whole well to- 
 gether, so that the ingredients may be well 
 blended; then pour over it a quarter of a pint 
 of brandy, and the same of sherry, but more 
 brandy and less sherry will do. This mince- 
 meat should be made a month before it is used. 
 Tie it down with bladder, to exclude the air. 
 Probable cost, 2s. lOd. 
 
 MINCE PIES. 
 
 Chop one pound of beef suet very fine; two 
 pounds of apples, pared, cored, and minced; 
 stoned raisins, one pound (minced); and one 
 pound of currants. Add of mixed spice, in 
 powder, half an ounce, one pound of powdered 
 sugar, one tea-spoonful of salt, the juice of half 
 n lemon; cut small three ounces of candied 
 orange-peel, one ounce of citron, and one ounce 
 of lemon ; mix all well together with half a pint 
 of brandy. Tie down close in a jar, and keep 
 for use. ■ A larger quantity may be made in 
 these proportions. Make the pies with rich, 
 flaky crusts. 
 
 MINCE PIES (another way). 
 
 Of .'Suet, chopped very fine and sifted, two 
 pounds ; currants, two pounds ; raisins, one 
 pound ; apples, two pounds ; bread, half a 
 pound; red and white wine (mixed), three- 
 quarters of a pint; a glass of brandy (these two 
 last according to taste) ; the peel of two small 
 lemons, and the juice of one ; four ounces of 
 candied orange-peel, cut. Mix, with cinnamon, 
 mace, nutmeg, and salt, to taste. If pre- 
 ferred, omit the bread, substituting two biscuits. 
 
 MINNOW. 
 
 This is a diminutive fish whose home is in 
 rivers, brooks, and canals. It is best known, 
 perhaps, as affording amusement to juvenile 
 anglers. The flavour of the minnow is good, 
 and when a sufficient number can be procured 
 
 by a casting-net, they make an excellent fry, 
 not unlike whitebait, but rather luscious and 
 cloying. In Izaak Walton's time, a dish called 
 minnow tansies was made from them, now quite 
 out of use. The minnows were gutted, well 
 washed in salt and water, and their heads and 
 tails being cut off, they were put with yolks of 
 eggs, well beaten, a few cowslips and primrose- 
 flowers, and a little tansy, shredded small, and 
 fried in butter. The sauce was butter, vinegar 
 or verjuice, and sugar. 
 
 MINT. 
 
 Mint is an extensive and well-known genus 
 of plants, with the culture and propagation of 
 which mostly all are familiar. Mint sauce is 
 generally made of spear mint, which is also used 
 for flavouring soups, etc. Mint for drying 
 should be gathered on a fine day in June or 
 July. 
 MINT JULEP, AMERICAN. 
 
 Put a sprig of green mint, a heaped tea- 
 spoonful or sugar, the rind and juice of a lemon, 
 a glassful of gin, and a glassful of sherry, into a 
 large glass jug. Fill it up with powdered ice, 
 and pour quickly from one jug into another for 
 a minute or two. Rub the edge of the tumbler 
 with a pineapple, if it is at hand. Drink 
 through a straw or reed. Probable cost, 3d., 
 exclusive of the gin and sherry. It will be suf- 
 ficient for one person. 
 
 MINT JULEP, AMERICAN (another way). 
 
 Put into a tumbler a dozen leaves of mint, 
 young and fresh, with a tea-spoonful of stigar, 
 and three table-spoonfuls of brandy or whiskey. 
 Put some pounded ice into another tumbler, 
 and pour from one tumbler to another, until 
 the whole is thoroughly flavoured with the mint. 
 A little pineapple juice is an improvement. 
 Drink through a reed. Time, ten minutes. 
 Probable cost, 8d. Sufficieni^ for one person. 
 
 MINT SAUCE. 
 
 Wash and free from grit three table-spoonfuls 
 of young green mint, chop exceedingly fine, and 
 put it in a sauce-tureen, with two table-spoon- 
 fuls of powdered lump sugar and a tea-cupful 
 of vinegar. Mint sauce should be allowed to 
 stand an hour or two before being used. Some 
 persons prefer moist sugar for sweetening : in 
 that case so large a quantity would not be 
 required. Probable cost, 3d. 
 
 MINT SAUCE (another way). 
 
 Spear-mint (the true species, both for this and 
 to boil with green peas) is a plant which be- 
 comes a weed in any but the driest and sandiest 
 soils. In ordinary garden-ground, it soon shows 
 its encroaching disposition. It may be obtained 
 early, by covering it with a bell-glass; by 
 putting a tuft into a frame or hot-bed ; 
 or by growing it indoors, in a pot, or 
 mignonette-box. Wash the sprigs of mint, to 
 clear them from dust or rain-splashings ; let 
 them dry on a napkin; strip off the leaves, and 
 chop them fine on a chopping-board. Pill your 
 sauce-boat one-quarter full of chopped mint; 
 pour over the mint vinegar equal to half the 
 con'teuts of the vessel. Drop in a few lumps 
 of sugar, and let it stand at least an hour 
 before serving, to extract the flavour of the 
 
MIN 
 
 416 
 
 MOD 
 
 herb. Before sending it to table, stir up all 
 together. Mint sauce will keep for a time, 
 bottled, and be just as good as, if not better 
 than, it was the first day. 
 
 MINT SAUCE (another way). 
 (^'ee Lamb, Saxice foe.) 
 
 MINT SAUCE, GREEN. 
 
 (See Gkeen Mint Sauce.) 
 
 MINT VINEGAR, GREEN, 
 
 (See Gbeen Mint Vinegab.) 
 
 MIREPOIX. 
 
 A flavouring for made dishes, which should be 
 always at hand and ready for use. The follow- 
 ing extract of meat and vegetables is to be re- 
 commended. Brown in a stewpan, with three 
 ounces of butter, a -pound of uncooked ham, 
 and half that weight of fat bacon, cut into 
 small pieces. Slice two carrots, two onions, and 
 two shallots, and add them, with a couple of 
 bay-leaves, a bunch of parsley, and a sprig or 
 two of thyme. When slightly coloured, pour 
 in two quarts of good veal stock, and a bottle 
 of light wine. Spice, pounded mace, and cloves 
 may be added, but a dozen peppercorns, bruised, 
 are indispensable. Boil, strain, and use this 
 flavouring when wanted. Time, two hours to 
 simmer. 
 
 MIXED FRUIT PUDDING. 
 
 Butter a large tin mould, one that will.hold a 
 quart, and line it with stale fine bread, first cut 
 into slices of about the fourth of an inch thick, 
 and again with a tin-cutter, into pieces of a 
 triangular form. This form will fit best into 
 the bottom of the mould, but long narrow strips 
 of half an inch broad will be best for the sides. 
 Have ready a syrup made by boiling a pint of 
 currant-juice with a pound and a half of loaf 
 sugar, and, the mould being now prepared, 
 simmer a pint of not over-ripe raspberries with 
 half the quantity of currants, in the syrup for a 
 few minutes, when fill the mould while the fruit 
 is in a boiling but whole state, and set the 
 pudding to cool over ice ; or it may be made the 
 day before it is wanted. Time, twenty-five 
 minutes to boil syrup ; ten minutes to simmer 
 fruit. 
 
 MIXED JAM. 
 
 Boil together any quantity or kind of fruit — 
 currants, gooseberries, cherries, or plums — with 
 or without the stones, for half an hour ; then add 
 to every pound half a pound of moist sugar, and 
 boil another half hour. It is an excellent jam 
 for the nursery. We would recommend that all 
 fruit should be stoned. Mixed jam will keep 
 six months. 
 
 MOCK TURTLE SOUP. 
 
 This is a staple soup of English life, to be 
 met with in most of the dining-rooms and hotels, 
 not only in London, but almost everywhere in 
 Great Britain. As its name implies, it is an 
 imitation of the turtle soup introduced to us 
 by our navigators over a century ago. The 
 essential point in mock turtle must, therefore, 
 ba the "lumpy delight" furnished by calf's 
 head; and the choice of the head should be a 
 matter of some importance. It should be large, 
 firm, and fat;, full of brain, with good tongue 
 
 and cheeks. As the preparation of this soup is a 
 labour of love, and will occupy time, our recipe 
 will run in the order of arrangement. First, 
 clean and blanch a calf's head, with the skin on. 
 Take out the brains, and put the head into eight 
 or nine quarts of spring water. Bring it gently 
 to a boil, skim frequently, and keep it simmer- 
 ing a couple of hours, by which time it should 
 be sufficiently done to remove the bones easily. 
 Second, return the bones to the pot, and add 
 three pounds of fillet of veal, three pounds of 
 leg of beef, cut into pieces an inch and a half 
 square, three pounds of delicate pickled pork, 
 also cut into small pieces, three or four slices of 
 good sound old ham for flavouring, four large 
 onions, sliced, three heads of celery, a large 
 bunch of savoury herbs, parsley, a few leaves of 
 green basil, lemon thyme, marjoram, two bay- 
 leaves, and stew gently, with good careful skim- 
 ming, three full hours, adding stock to keep up 
 the required quantity of sovip. Third, while the 
 stock is boiling, cut into nice sizable pieces the 
 skin from the head and the fat that adheres to it, 
 and cut the tongue into cubes of an inch square, 
 the fleshy parts of the head into diamonds, dice, 
 or any other shape. Make brain balls, or any 
 other forcemeat, or egg balls. Fourth, when 
 the stock has been sufficiently boiled, strain it 
 from the bones, etc. (retaining only rich bits of 
 meat), into a large clean stewpan ; add the skin, 
 tongue, etc., and a seasoning of cayenne and 
 mace, Worcester sauce, mushroom ketchup, or 
 any other seasoning that may be desirable. 
 Thicken with four ounces of butter, kneaded in 
 as much brown flour, and simmer gently for an 
 hour, if the calf's head, etc., require it; but 
 twenty minutes before serving, add half a pint 
 of sherry, the brain or other balls, and button 
 mushrooms (two or three ounces). Fifth, the 
 best mode is to place the pieces of head, etc., at 
 the bottom of the tureen, and strain the soup 
 through a tamis-cloth ; but if due care has been 
 taken in the second stage of the preparation, 
 and the skimming has been constant and care- 
 ful, this need not be resorted to. Sixth, serve 
 with lemon on a plate, as some persons like the 
 soup a little acid. (For half a calf's head take 
 half the ingredients.) This recipe is for four 
 quarts. (See also Calf's Head, Mock Tostlis 
 Sorrp OF ; and Tubtle Sotrp, Mock.) 
 
 MOCK TURTLE SOUP, FORCEMEAT BALLS FOR. 
 
 (See FoBCEMEAT BaiiLS, etc.) 
 
 MODENA CAKE. 
 
 The lightness of this cake depends greatly on 
 the mixing and beating together of the ingre- 
 dients. Warm six ounces of butter before the 
 fire until it is as soft as cream. Beat into it 
 half a pound of flour, and the same of flnely- 
 sifted sugar. Have ready whisked half a dozen 
 eggs (they should be whisked from ten to fifteen 
 minutes). Work the flour and sugar gradually 
 and smoothly with the eggs. Add grated lemon- 
 peel and thinly-sliced candied orange-peel to 
 flavour; and lastly, beat briskly into the mix- 
 ture as much carbonate of soda as will cover a 
 shilling. Put the cake quickly into the oven, 
 which should be moderately heated. The tin 
 should be lined with a buttered paper. Time, 
 ten to fifteen minutes to beat eggs ; to bake, one 
 hour. 
 
MOt 
 
 417 
 
 MOO 
 
 MOLASSES. 
 
 This is the saccharine principle in the dregs 
 or refuse drainings from the casks, etc., of 
 sugar, and the uncrystallisable part of the juice 
 of the cane separated from the sugar during the 
 process of granulation. It consists of sugar 
 prevented from crystallising by acids, and saline 
 and other matters. On account of its cheapness, 
 molasses is much employed as an article of 
 domestic economy. It is considered very whole- 
 some, and children are generally very fond of it. 
 A French writer has shown that it may be de- 
 prived of its peculiar taste by boiling it with 
 pulverised charcoal for half an hour ; the sac- 
 charine liquor is then strained from the char- 
 coal, when its flavour is found equal to that of 
 sugar. 
 
 mo'nitor'S tart. 
 
 , Make three-quarters of a pound of good puff- 
 paste, observing the proportions of three- 
 quarters of a pound of butter to one pound of 
 flour. Divide in two portions, roll out one half 
 to about a quarter of an inch thick, and cut it 
 round with a tin cutter. Well flour the pastry, 
 and transfer it to the oven-leaf, which should 
 be quite cold. Pill the tart with a compote of 
 apples, prepared in the following manner. 
 Stew in a clean saucepan until they are tender 
 but not broken, one pound of apples, cut into 
 quarters (pared and cored), with a quarter of a 
 pound of lump sugar, one ounce of butter, and 
 a little powdered cinnamon. The fruit must 
 not be put into the crust until cold. When 
 placing it be careful to leave a margin an inch 
 in depth all round. Roll out the other half of 
 the crust, and lay it carefully over the apples. 
 Brush the edges with the white of an egg, and 
 press them well together, that the juice may not 
 escape. Brush over the outside with the white 
 of an egg, and sift a little sugar over it, and a 
 few finely-chopped almonds. Bake in s, mode- 
 rate oven for three-quarters of an hour. Time 
 to stew the apples, fifteen to twenty minutes. 
 Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 MONMOUTH PUDDING. 
 
 Take the crumb of a stale white loaf, put it 
 into a basin, and pour over it. boiling milk, in 
 the proportion of a pint of milk to four ounces 
 of bread. Cover until it is well soaked, then 
 add two heaped table-spoonfuls of pounded 
 white sugar, from four to five ounces of butter 
 dissolved before the fire, the grated peel of a 
 dry lemon with the juice of a fresh one, and 
 three well-whisked eggs. Pour the mixture 
 into a buttered dish, the bottom of which has 
 been spread with jam — strawberry, raspberry, 
 or plum. Bake for twenty minutes. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 4d. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 MONTAGU PUDDING. 
 
 Mix to a smooth batter two ounces of.fiour, 
 a quarter of a pint of milk, and four eggs, well 
 beaten. Then add half a pound of chopped (not 
 rolled) suet, half, a pound of stoned raisins — or 
 a quarter of a pound of raisins, and a quarter of 
 a pound of sultanas — and two table-spoonfuls of 
 moist sugar. Pour the whole into a basin, flour 
 a cloth, put it over the top, and tie down tightly. 
 Plunge the pudding into a saucepan of boiling 
 2 R 
 
 water, and boil for four hours. Sufficient for 
 six persons. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 MONTPELLIER BUTTER (Beurre de Montpelller). 
 
 Take equal quantities (about a liandful of 
 each) of tarragon, chervil, and pimpernel, to- 
 gether with a small quantity of chives, and 
 place them in boiling water to blanch. Then 
 remove them, allow them to cool, and drain off 
 all the water adhering to them. Then dry them 
 on a cloth, and compress them to remove all 
 moisture. Now place them in a mortar, with a 
 clove of garlic, a handful of capers, the yolks of 
 eight eggs boiled hard, the same number of 
 anchovies, and some gherkins. Beat them to- 
 gether for five minutes, and then add one pound 
 of good butter; season with nutmeg, salt, and 
 pepper, and again beat them up together until 
 perfectly mixed, a wine-glassful of the finest 
 olive-oil being added during the process. When 
 well mixed, pour on it, by little and little, a 
 quart of vinaigre a I'estragon (vinegar flavoured 
 with tarragon). Colour the preparation with 
 the green colouring prepared from spinach- 
 leaves. When the whole is thoroughly mixed, 
 remove it from the mortar, and place it in a 
 suitable vessel for sending to table. 
 
 MONTROSE CAKES. 
 
 Beat a pound of fresh butter to a cream, with 
 an equal weight of finely-sifted sugar. Whisk 
 a dozen eggs for ten minutes, add them, with 
 half a glassful of brandy, a little nutmeg, and a 
 table-spoonful of rose-water, gradually, to the 
 creamed butter. Beat the mixture for twenty 
 minutes, dredging into it the whole of one pound 
 of flour, well dried and sifted. If currants are 
 liked, they can be added : three-quarters of a 
 pound will be enough for these ingredients. 
 
 MOOR GAME, BROILED. 
 
 Truss the birds firmly, and divide them down 
 the back; flatten the breast, and bruise the leg. 
 Season with cayenne, white pepper, and salt. 
 Put them into a stewpan with plenty of butter. 
 Close the lid, and simmer for fifteen or twenty 
 minutes. Take them out, and finish on the 
 gridiron. Serve with a sauce made as follows. 
 Chop some shallot and a little parsley together, 
 stew them both in a small quantity of stock; 
 add vinegar and pepper. Time, eight to ten 
 minutes to broil. 
 
 MOOR GAME PIE. 
 
 Season the birds highly with cayenne, black 
 pepper, and salt. Any other seasoning will rob 
 them of their native flavour. They may be 
 divided or not, according to size. Small birds 
 are best whole. Boil down any trimmings for 
 gravy. Put this, with some good beef gravy, 
 into a pie-dish, and lay in th^ birds with bits 
 of butter over them; or a rump-steak, well 
 seasoned, may be laid in the bottom of the pie- 
 dish, with the gravy from the trimmings. Cover 
 with a puff-paste and bake, but do Hot overdress 
 it. If the pie is to be eaten hot, a little melted 
 butter, mixed with a glassful of claret, and the 
 juice from a lemon may be poured into it 
 through a funnel; but for a cold pie this 
 is not necessary. Time, three-quart^i^ to one 
 hour to bake. Probable cost, exclusive of 
 fowl, 2s. 
 
MOO 
 
 US 
 
 MOR 
 
 MOOR GAME, ROASTED. 
 
 Cut off the head, wipe out the inside, and 
 truss like a fowl. Plenty of butter to baste, and 
 a quick fire are indispensable. If oTerdone, 
 moor game are spoiled. Serve them on buttered 
 toast soaked in the dripping-pan, with plain 
 melted butter poured over them, or, if pre- 
 ferred, a gravy and bread sauce. The delicious 
 aroma of the moor fowl is lost if other seasoning 
 than pepper and salt be given it. Fine bread- 
 crumbs, toasted with butter to a light brown, 
 should accompany this dish. Time, half an 
 hour or more. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. 
 the brace. Sufficient, two for a dish. 
 
 MOOR GAME SALAD (k ia Soyer). 
 
 Put a slight layer of butter round a dish, by 
 means of which secure a border of hardrboiJed 
 eggs. Cut into fo^r, lengthwise, taking off the 
 tip to make them stand. Eill the dish with a 
 seasonable fresh salad ; garnish , the egg-border 
 tastefully with beetroot,- fillets of anchovies, or 
 gherkins. For the sauce observe the following 
 instructions. Take two tablerspoonfuls of 
 finely-chopped shallots, two of jpounded sugar, 
 the yolks of two eggs, two table-rspoonfuls of 
 chopped tarragon and chervil, a salt-spoonful of 
 white pepper, two of salt, twelve table-spoonfuls 
 of salad-oil (which should be very gradually 
 mixed), and three of, chilli yin^ar. When mixed 
 keep it on ice until wanted, and when ready to 
 serve add half a pint of whipped cream. Pour 
 a little of the sauce over the salad. Arrange 
 the inferior parts of three roast grouse on the 
 top, over which pour more sauce, and continue 
 to place the joints in a pyramidal form with the 
 sauce, until all b*e" well' used up. Mr. Soyer 
 considered this salad " better adapted to gentle- 
 men than ladies." 
 
 MOOR GAME SOUP. 
 
 Take the pot-liquor of a boiled turkey; add 
 any inferior parts of game, with the gizzards, 
 crops, and -livers, and boil until reduced to 
 two quarts; then strain. Skin the birds, and 
 out them intp ne,at jjiecgs ; , fry them jij butter, 
 with a few thin, slices of lean ham, an onion, a 
 carrot, and part of a turnip, all sliced. Drain, 
 and put the game into the stock, with a head of 
 celery cut into inch lengths, and some parsley; 
 a few Jamaica peppers and cloves may be added; 
 but much seasoning should be avoided, as it 
 destroys the flavour of the game. Slices of 
 venison, or the trimmings, will add much to the 
 flavour of this soiip. 
 
 MOOR GAME, STEWED. , , 
 
 Cut the birds into joints, if large, but . only 
 quarter small ones ; rather ,old birds may be 
 utilised by this mode of cooking. Put a quarter 
 of a pound xjf butter into a large stewpah, lay 
 in the joints, brown them over a slow fire, take 
 them out, make a gravy in the pan, adding "a 
 small cup of stock: and a couple of glassfuls of 
 port wine, with a bit of garlic, the size of a pea ; 
 season with white pepper,, salt, and cayenne, if 
 approved, and simmer slowly until tender. 
 Hiirty' minutes will be sufiicient time for young 
 birds. The skin should be removed from old ones 
 before they are fried. Probable cost, uncertain. 
 MORELLA CHERRIES. / . , 
 
 (Sec Chbbbibs, Mobeila.) 
 
 MORELLA CHERRY BRANDY. 
 
 Select fine ripe fruit gathered on a dry dE|.y; 
 cut off the .stalks to within an inch, and. put the 
 cherries at once into wide-necked quart bottles. 
 Allow to every pound of fruit four ounces of 
 white sugar-candy or loaf sugar, and a pint of 
 the best brandy. Some cherry orpeachvkemels 
 will improve the .flavour; tie the bottles down 
 with iladder, and storein a dry .place. Do not 
 put^l the sugar at the top or. bottom of the 
 bottle, but distribute it equally amongst the 
 cherries. Probable cost. Is. to Is. 6d. per pound; 
 
 MORELLA PUDDING. 
 
 Chop half a pound of suet till it is very fine,, 
 and add to three-quarters of a. pound of flour.' 
 Add one tea-spoonful of baking-powder and. a 
 quarter of a pound of preserved cherries, cut 
 small, together with two ounces of candied peeL 
 cut into small lumps (not sliced). Mix together 
 with a little water until of the consistency of 
 dough, then put into a well-greased pudding 
 mould, cover with a greased paper, and steam 
 for three hours. Turn out, cover with sweet 
 sattce in which two ounces of glace cherries 
 have been cut up. This makes a very pretty 
 winter pudding, and is always liked. 
 
 MORELS. 
 
 The morel is one of the few edible fungi found 
 in this country which may be employed as food 
 with safety. It is much more common, how- 
 ever, in many parts of the middle and south of 
 Europe than here. It is .nutritious; and not 
 difficult' to digest; the chief use to which it is 
 put is to flavour sauces and gravies. It is used 
 either fresh or dried, and is often brought to 
 market in the latter state. It makes excellent 
 ketchup^ - ..... 
 
 MORELS IN CREAM. 
 
 Take the stalks off them^ cut the morels, in 
 two, and wash them in several waters that they 
 may not be gritty. Put them into a saucepan 
 with a piece of butter ; season with salt, pepppr, 
 a bunch of herbs, and a little shredded parsley. 
 Toss them over the stove, then moisten with 
 some good broth, and set to simmer over a slack 
 fire. Make a thickening with the yolks of two 
 eggs beaten up with cream ; take out the herbs, 
 add the thickening to the sauce, and serve. 
 Mushrooms may. be dressed in the same manner. 
 
 MORELS, SAUCE OF. 
 
 Take fresh morels (when dried they impart 
 little or no flavour to a dish), wash and stew 
 them in a tightly closed pan, ysith a good lump 
 of butter ; when tender take 'out the morels, add 
 some flour, let it brown in the butter, and use 
 good gravy to make it of the proper consistency. 
 Flavour with grated lemon-rind and juice. Put 
 in the morels, and serve hot. 
 
 MORELS, STEWED. 
 
 Morels are seldom served at English tables, 
 but whep stewed fresh have a rich flavour, highly 
 appreciated by connoisseurs ; stew them in a 
 little good gravy, powdered mace, pepper, salt, 
 and a glassful of white wine for an hour. If 
 large cut them into four; thicken the gravy 
 with butter and flour, and add lemon- juice to 
 taste; serve hot. 
 
MOS 
 
 419 
 
 MUL 
 
 MOSELLE CUP. 
 
 To a bottle of Moselle in a jug pour a glassful 
 ot sherry, or pale brandy, and add four or five 
 thin slices of pineapple, the peel of half a 
 lemon, out very thin, and some lumps of ice, 
 and sweeten to taste. A bottle of iced soda- or 
 seltzer-water must be added before using. 
 
 MOTHER EVE'S PUDDING. 
 
 Take of sliced apple, well-washed currants, 
 grated bread, and finely-shredded suet, each 
 twelve ounces, mix them in a bowl, with half 
 the rind of a lemon, minced, and moisten with 
 four well-beaten eggs. Boil in a buttered mould, 
 and serve with a sweet sauce, as follows. 
 Sweeten a quarter of a pint of melted butter, 
 add nutmeg, a large glassful of sherry, and part 
 of the juice of a lemon. Time, three hours to 
 boil. Probable cost. Is. 8d., exclusive of wine. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 MOTHER'S APPLE PUDDING. 
 
 (See Apple PuDDiNa, Motheb's.) 
 
 MOULDS, TO USE. 
 
 Dip them into cold water before filling them 
 with either jelly or cream. When about to 
 turn out the contents, dip them quickly into 
 hot water, and wipe dry. 
 
 MOUSSE OF FOWL. 
 
 Proceed as for Mousse oe Teal, substituting 
 fowl for the veal. Cooked ham or tongue should 
 be used instead of sweetbread. When turned 
 out of the mould, gaxnish with a lettuce or cress 
 salad, and omit the truffles and aspic. Put 
 about the dish a few fancy shaped slices of ham, 
 coated with aspic. 
 
 MOUSSE OF VEAL. 
 
 Line an oval mould with aspic, garnish with 
 slices of truffle and sweetbreads stamped out in 
 shapes. Pound together three ounces of cooked 
 veal and two ounces of foie gras, and pass 
 through a sieve. Mix it with half a pint of 
 stock and a glass of sherry in which half an 
 ounce of sheet gelatine has been dissolved. Then 
 stir in a table-spoonful of mushroom essence, 
 and whip the mixture until it looks spongy. 
 The stock should be cool before it is added to 
 the foie gras and veal. Put it into the pre- 
 pared mould, pour more aspic over the top, and 
 set on ice until firm. Turn it out, and garnish 
 with a few slices of truffle and small blocks of 
 aspic. 
 
 MOUSSES. 
 
 Mousses occupy a position between souffles 
 and ordinary ice creams. They are lighter and 
 more spongy than the latter, and have the ad- 
 vantage of needing no freezing before they are 
 moulded. The mixture is first thickened over 
 the fire like a custard, then put in the mould, 
 and set in the refrigerator until firm enough to 
 turn out. 
 
 MUFFINS. 
 
 Make a dough of rather soft consistency with 
 warm milk, allowing to every quart of milk an 
 ounce and a half of German yeast, which should 
 be first mixed with the milk ; add the beaten 
 whites of two eggs, and cover the dough closely 
 before the fire to rise; When ready, drop the 
 quantity. of dough required for one muffin upon 
 
 a well-floured board, and form it into shape by 
 turning it round with the hand, then slide it 
 upon the hot plate. To make and bake muffins 
 well is a difficult task, and as they are to 
 be obtained at any respectable baker's, there 
 are, unless for families living far from town, 
 very few home-made muffins. Time, twenty to 
 thirty minutes to bake. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 for this quantity. Sufficient, four pounds of 
 flour. 
 
 MUFFINS (another way). " 
 
 (Sie Bbeakeast Mueeins.) 
 
 MUFFINS, AMERICAN. 
 
 Warm a pint of new milk, add to a table- 
 spoonful of fresh yeast, a pinch of salt, the 
 whites of two eggs, frothed, and a little lump of 
 saleratus, the size of a pea, dissolved in warm 
 water. Put these ingredients into a bowl, and 
 add sufficient flour to make a soft dough. Put 
 it in a warm place to rise for two or three hours, 
 being careful to cover the bowl with a cloth. 
 Take out, on the end of a spoon, enough dough 
 for one muffin at a time, drop it on a floured 
 board, and shake it until it is the proper form. 
 Let the muffins rise again, then place carefully 
 on a hot plate or stove, previously oiled; when 
 one side is slightly browned, turn on the other. 
 When done, divide the edge of the muffin- all 
 round with the thumb and flnger; toast it 
 gently, flrst on one side, then^on the other ; tear 
 it open, and place two or three lumps of butter 
 between, and ciit into quarters. Pile three or 
 four on a dish, and send hot to table. Time, 
 about -twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, 
 about Id. each. One will be sufficient for each, 
 person. 
 
 MUFFINS AND CRUMPETS, PUDDING OF. 
 
 (See Ceumpet and Mueein Pudding.) 
 
 MUFFINS, PUDDING OF. 
 
 Beat six eggs for ten minutes, lay three 
 muffins and two crumpets into a bowl, and pour 
 over them three breakfast-cupfuls of boiling 
 milk, flavoured with lemon-peel, and sweetened 
 with loaf sugar. Mix when cold, and add a 
 glassful of brandy, two ounces of sweet almonds, 
 blanched and chopped small, and the beaten 
 eggs; half a poxmd of stoned muscatels, or dried 
 cherries, may be added, and the whole should be 
 well stirred before being put into the buttered 
 basin for boiling, or into a dish lined with pufE- 
 paste, if the pudding is preferred baked. Time, 
 one hour to bake or boil. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. Probable cost, 2s., exclusive of 
 brandy. 
 
 MUFFINS, TOASTED. 
 
 To toast muffins slit them round the edge to 
 the depth of an inch or more, but keep them 
 attached in the centre while toasting. Pull 
 open, and butter freely. Lay them on a very 
 hot plate, and serve cut across. 
 
 MULBERRIES. 
 
 The fruit of the mulberry recommends itself 
 by its highly aroma,tic flavour and abundant 
 subacid juice. It is wholesome, cooling, and 
 rather laxative ; like the strawberry, it does 
 not undergo the acetous fermentation, and 
 therefore may safely be partaken of by gouty 
 and rheumatic persons. The most forward mul- 
 
MUL 
 
 420 
 
 MUL 
 
 berries attain maturity about the end of August, 
 and there is a succession of ripening fruit on the 
 same tree for about a month or six weeks. The 
 ripening berries rapidly change from a reddish 
 to a black colour, and should be gathered ac- 
 cordingly for immediate use. This delicate 
 fruit will not keep good off the tree for above 
 a day or two. 
 
 MULBERRIES, PRESERVED. 
 
 Simmer the mulberries in a jar, as directed in 
 the recipe for Mtjlbebet Sybtjp, and strain the 
 juice. Put a pint of this into a preserving-pan, 
 with two pounds and a. half of sugar in small 
 lumps; stir until the sugar is dissolved. Keep 
 it boiling for about five minutes, skimming 
 carefully, then add two pounds of the fruit, 
 without any bruised berries. Move them gently 
 in the syrup, and let the pan stand by the side 
 of the fire until the preserve is hot through, then 
 boil very gently for half an hour, and put them 
 by to cool until next day. This would be best 
 done in an earthenware or enamelled pan, as 
 the shifting from one vessel to another is likely 
 to break the fruit. Boil again next day. The 
 syrup, when cold, should be firm; test it before 
 the pots are filled. The preserve is refreshing 
 and cooling, and the syrup, when mixed with 
 water, is efficacious for sore throat. 
 
 MULBERRY JUICE. 
 
 The chief use of the fruit of the black mul- 
 berry is for the dessert; but from its cooling 
 and laxative properties its juice, diluted with 
 water, is sometimes used as a beverage in fevers. 
 It is also employed in the form of syrup for 
 medicinal purposes, chiefly to colour other fluid 
 medicines. The juice is also made use of to 
 give a dark tinge to liqueurs and confections. 
 When properly prepared and fermented, the 
 fruit yields a pleasant vinous liquor, widely 
 known by the name of mulberry wine. In the 
 cider counties the fruit is occasionally mixed 
 with apples to form a beverage call«d mulberry 
 cider. 
 
 MULBERRY PIE. 
 
 Put a pint of freshly picked mulberries into 
 a clean enamelled saucepan, with the juice of 
 a lemon and two ounces of sugar. Bring to 
 the boil, then allow them to simmer very gently 
 for half an hour. Stand aside till cool. Now line 
 a pie-dish with short paste, and pour the mul- 
 berries into this. Set in a brisk oven till the 
 pastry is a pale brown colour. Whip the whites 
 of two eggs very stiffly, pour over the fruit, 
 and put again in oven till set like foam. 
 MULBERRY SNOW CREAM. 
 
 Put a pint of mulberries into an enamelled 
 stewpan with half a breakfast-cupful of sugar 
 and the juice of a lemon; allow them to stew 
 for half an hour very gently, then put into a 
 glass dish to cool. Whip half a pint of cream 
 or boiled custard to a stiff froth with the whites 
 of two eggs and a little sugar. As the cream 
 becomes stiff, set it on the. fruit, and serve at 
 once. 
 
 MULBERRY SYRUP. 
 
 Get the juice from quite ripe mulberries, by 
 putting them into a jar, and setting it in a not 
 
 very, hot oven, or, which is better, in a vessel of 
 boiling water, and, as the juice separates from 
 the fruit, pour it off, and when sufficiently done, 
 strain through a sieve without pulping the mul- 
 berries. Boil the juice, allowing to each pint 
 a pound of good loaf sugar; skim, and when 
 cold, put into bottles, and cork tightly. Time, 
 three-quarters of an hour to extract the juice. 
 Boil to a thick syrup. 
 
 MULBERRY VINEGAR. 
 
 Put six pounds of ripe mulberries into an 
 earthenware pan, and pour over them vinegar to 
 cover. When they have soaked twenty-four 
 hours, bruise them with a wooden spoon, and 
 cover with a cloth for another twenty-four 
 hours ; bruise, and mix well ; add more vinegar, 
 until nearly a gallon has been poured upon 
 them. When they have stood a week (they 
 should be stirred daily during the time), strain 
 off the vinegar, to every pint add a pound of 
 loaf sugar, and boil and skim well for five min- 
 utes. To be used like raspberry vinegar. 
 
 MULBERRY WATER. 
 
 Put a pound of mulberries into a basin, and 
 cover them with lump sugar, coarsely powdered; 
 crush them together, then pour over them a 
 pint of water, and filter through a fine sieve. 
 Mulberry water is most refreshing as a drink in 
 cases .of fever. 
 
 MULLAGATAWNY SOUP. 
 
 This is soup of any kind flavoured with curry- 
 powder. It is highly stimulating, gives tone 
 and vigour to the digestive organs, and is fre- 
 quently acceptable in very hot or very cold 
 climates. Nevertheless, we do not recommend 
 its frequent use, though it may occasionally be 
 resorted to on festive occasions. If a plain 
 curry or mullagatawny soup is preferred, mix 
 the powder with an equal quantity of browned 
 flour and a little cold stock or broth, which 
 may be put in with the meat of the soup 
 half an hour before serving. Soft meats, 
 fowl, etc., may be wholly stewed in this 
 curry stock, though the finer sorts of curries will 
 not admit of this, mangoes, tamarinds, etc., 
 taking only a few minutes ; but the experi- 
 enced cook will readily distinguish and deter- 
 mine on such additions. ' With a plain curry 
 there should be a flavouring of lemon-acid just 
 before serving. The housekeeper will readily 
 understand that any good stock soup may be 
 converted into mullagatawny or curry soup, but 
 as it usually occupies considerable space in every 
 cookery-book, we add a few examples, pointing 
 from the simple soup above mentioned to more 
 expensive dishes. 
 
 MULLAGATAWNY SOUP (another way). 
 
 For this favourite Indian soup take a couple of 
 chickens, a large fowl, a knudtle of veal, or a 
 calf's head, with the trimmings, bones, and 
 gristles of the breast of veal. Make a good 
 strong stock ; this must be carefully attended to. 
 Cut the meat into pieces — mouthfuls — or the 
 fowl into small joints, and simmer gently in 
 about half a, gallon of water. Fry six middle- 
 sized onions and a couple of cloves of garlic 
 shredded finely, in two ounces of butter. Pound 
 and mix well together an ounce of coriander- 
 seed, a quarter of an ounce each of chives^ 
 
MUL 
 
 421 
 
 MUL 
 
 turmeric, and cassia, a salt-spoonful of cayenne, 
 and rather more of black pepper. Put these in- 
 gredients with two large spoonfuls of riceflour 
 into a basin, mix them with some of the broth 
 the meat has been boiled in, and strain into the 
 rest. Simmer until the soup is about the 
 thickness of cream. Before taking it off the fire 
 add the juice of a lemon to flavour it. Some 
 people use sour apples or other acids in mulla- 
 
 fatawny, but the lemon-juice is preferable, 
 erve the. meat in the soup, with boiled rice 
 separately, and cut lemons on a plate. Tipie, 
 simmer from two to three hour^ Probable cost, 
 2s. per quart. Sufficient for eight persons. 
 MULLAGATAWNY SOUP, CALF'S HEAD. 
 
 Prepare a calf's head as for mock-turtle, put it 
 into a stewpan with a cow-heel, cover with four 
 quarts of water, and HmTuntil tender. When 
 cold cut off the meat from the bones, and brown 
 it lightly in a little butter, with four 
 shredded onions. Put the meat back into the 
 stock, and add curry, flavoured to taste. This 
 time it will bear liiore cayenne, Harvey's sauce, 
 or any other sauce that may be esteemed. Eice 
 in a separate dish should always accompany 
 mullagatawny soup. 
 
 MULLAGATAWNY SOUP, FOWL. 
 
 Cut up a large fowl, place the trimmings in 
 a sauce|pan with two quarts of water, a knuckle 
 of veal, and half a pound of minced ham, a few 
 black peppercorns, and some allspice. As soon 
 as it boils, skim the soup, then allow it to 
 simmer for an hour or so, and strain. Take 
 some of the nicest pieces of meat, and fry them 
 to a delicate brown colour with butter and 
 three medium-sized onions, finely sliced length- 
 wise, ^ov/ add this to the stock, place the pot 
 on the fire, and bring the whole to a boil; skim 
 it, and allow it to simmer for-fuUy half an hour. 
 Mix two table-spoonfuls of " Empress " curry- 
 powder with a little arrowroot, a tea-spoonful 
 of salt, and a sufficiency of milk or water to 
 bring the whble to the desired degree of con- 
 sistency; add this to the soup, and simmer 
 gently until the meat is quite tender. Strain 
 the soup, add a little lemon-juice to taste, and 
 serve with boiled rice. 
 
 MULLAGATAWNY SOUP, HOUSEHOLD. 
 
 Soak two pounds of tinned mutton in two 
 quarts of water. Fry two apples, two onions, 
 two turnips, two leeks, and a bunch of herbs. 
 Pour on them a pint of the liquor in which the 
 meat is soaking ; boil for half an hour. Mix two 
 table-spoonfuls of flour and one of curry-powder 
 with cold water. Stir into the liquid, add the 
 rest of the water and the meat. Boil for three 
 hours. Press the whole through a sieve, boil 
 again, add salt, also a dash of lemon, and serve 
 with boiled rice. Time to simmer meat, four 
 hours. f 
 
 MULLAGATAWNY SOUP, RABBIT. 
 
 Cut up two young rabbits into small pieces, 
 fry them in butter until they are nearly cooked 
 enough, with four onions sliced finely. Place 
 these in a stewpan, pour in a quart of stock, 
 and simmer for an hour. Then take out the 
 rabbit, and strain . off the onions ; replace the 
 rabbit in the stewpan with two more quarts of 
 stock, as good as you wish to make it, and when 
 
 it boils stir in two table-spoonfuls of curry- 
 powder, flavoured as you may prefer; add 
 mango pickles, etc., just before serving. Fowl 
 may be served in the same way. 
 
 MULLAGATAWNV SOUP, VEGETABLE. 
 
 Take five or six young vegetable-marrovps, and 
 the same of middle-sized cucumbers, pare, cut 
 them lengthwise into slips, empty, their seeds, 
 and divide them again into dice. Pare and core 
 four sour apples or tomatoes, and slice a couple 
 of Spanish onions. These last fry, slightly 
 browning them, in a large stewpan, with a 
 quarter of a pound of good fresh butter. Throw 
 in the other vegetables before the butter has 
 acquired much colour, and stir them gently 
 round. Shake the pan frequently, and stew 
 gently over a slow fire until half done, when 
 add from two to three large table-spoonfuls of 
 good curry powder, ' and stew the vegetables 
 until they will pulpj pouring in boiling veal 
 stock enough to co.ver. Strain through a coarse 
 hair-sieve, pressing the pulp with a wooden 
 spoon. Add more stock, or even water, if stock 
 be not at hand, according to the quantity ot 
 soup required, and any additional seasoning- 
 salt, cayenne, or lemon-juice. Thicken if neces~ 
 sary with a very little ground rice or arrowroot,, 
 and serve with rice, if Uked; but it should be,. 
 if properly made, quite thick enough without 
 any addition. Time, two hours to prepare. Suf- 
 ficient, one quart for six persons. 
 
 MULLED WINE. 
 
 To a bottle of wine add five ounces of loaf 
 sugar, three cloves, and the sixth part of a, 
 nutmeg, grated. Place the wine in a bright 
 tin pot with a lid. Keep it over a gentle heat 
 till it is nearly boiling ; then send to table in a 
 hot silver jug with a lid. 
 
 MULLED WINE (a French recipe) 
 
 Take a wine-glassful and a half of water, a 
 quarter of an ounce of cinnamon, slightly 
 bruised ginger, and cloves, mixed, and three 
 ounces of sugar. Mix these ingredients, and 
 boil till they form a thick syrup, taking care 
 that they do not burn. Pour in a pint of port 
 wine; stir gently till juBt on the point of boil- 
 ing; then serve immed[iately. If a strip or two 
 of orange-rind cut very thin is added to wine 
 thus prepared, it gives the flavour of bishop. In 
 making this beverage in Prance, light claret is 
 substituted for port wine : the better sorts of 
 vin ordinaire are excellent thus prepared. 
 
 MULLET, GREY. 
 
 (See Geet Mullet.) 
 
 MULLET, GREY, BOILED. 
 
 Put large mullet into cold water, salted in the 
 proportion of two ounces of salt to every two 
 quarts of water. Bring the water quickly to the 
 boil, then simmer until done. Small mullet, 
 like other small fish, should be put into almost 
 boiling water. Serve with anchovy or caper 
 sauce, and plain melted butter. Time to boil, 
 a quarter to half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. 
 per pound. 
 
 MULLET, GREY, BROILED. 
 
 Scale, clean, and take out the gills and inside. 
 A fish of about two pounds will be best for this 
 mode of cooking. Score the mullet on both 
 
MUL 
 
 422 
 
 MUS 
 
 sides, lay it on a disji, sprinkle with salt, and 
 pour three table-spoonfuls of oil over it. Turn 
 on the dish, drain, and when to he broiled, fold 
 in oiled paper or not; the fire should be mod- 
 erate and even. The scores should not be more 
 than a quarter of an inch deep. When sent to 
 table put from six to eight ounces of maitre 
 d'hotel butter on it. Time to broil, half an hour. 
 
 MULLET, RED. 
 
 These fish may be roast, baked, or broiled, 
 and are excellent either way. Scrape and wash, 
 then wipe them quickly. The gills and fins only 
 are removed, but the inside is dressed with the 
 fish, the liver being a much-esteemed morsel. 
 Fold each mullet in oiled or buttered paper, and 
 bake about twenty-five minutes. Serve without 
 the paper, and with sauce in a tureen. Make the 
 sauce thus. Into a little good melted butter 
 pour the liquor which has oozed from the fish, 
 add a glassful of wine, white or red, a little 
 essence of anchovies, cayenne, and lemon-juice. 
 Time, twenty to thirty minutes to prepare. 
 Probable cost, from Is. to 2s. each. 
 
 MULLET, RED .a la Maftre d'Hotel). 
 
 Clean four red mullet, and wipe them quickly. 
 Score them to the depth of a quarter of an inch, 
 and lay them to steep in a small wine-glassful 
 of salad-oil. Add a salt-spoonful of salt, and 
 one of pepper, an onion, snoed, and s bunch of 
 parsley in sprigs. When the fish have become 
 well saturated, drain and put them on the grid- 
 iron. Let the fire be bright and even. In ten 
 minutes the mullet will be done. Brown alike 
 on both sides. Serve hot on a dish, with maitre 
 d'hotel butter under them ; about seven or eight 
 ounces will be enough. Time, half an hour to 
 steep in oil. Probable cost. Is. to 2s. each. 
 
 MULLET, RED (aux Fines Herbes). 
 
 Put two mullets into a stewpan with one 
 ounce of butter, a table-spoonful of Harvey's 
 sauce, the same of essence of anchovies, and a 
 glass of white wine. Stew them over a slow fire 
 until tender. Place them on a hot dish in the 
 oven. Add to the liquor in which the fish was 
 <;ooked a tea-spoonful of chopped mushrooms, a 
 "tea^spoonful of chopped shallot, a table-spoonful 
 of lemon-juice, a lump of sugar, and a grating of 
 nutmeg. Stir the sauce over the fire for ten 
 minutes. Pour it over the fish, and serve very 
 hot. 
 
 MULLET, RED (en Papillotes). 
 
 Take two table-spoonfuls of capers, dry them 
 in a cloth, and chop them very fine along with 
 a small onion. Mix with this a salt-spoonful 
 each of white pepper and cayenne, and twice as 
 much salt. Butter six circular sheets of white 
 paper, except round the edges; distribute the 
 seasoning equally over six mullets, lay one on 
 each paper and fold over, making the edges 
 meet. This makes a semi-circle. Then begin to 
 fold the edges of the paper over and over, until 
 it reaches the fish. Brush the papers over out- 
 side, especially the folds, with oil or butter, 
 then broil or grill carefully. Serve with caper 
 sauce to which a little Madeira has been added. 
 
 MULLET, RED, WITH TOMATO SAUCE. 
 
 Well butter a china fire-proof dish. Lay six 
 red mullets in it, season them with pepper and 
 
 salt, sprinkle them with chopped- parsley, add 
 six taWe-spoonfuls of tomato sauce, cover with 
 a sheet of oiled paper, and bake half an hour. 
 Serve in the dish in which they are baked.^, 
 
 MULLET, STEWED. 
 
 Make a sauce as follows. Put together in a 
 stewpan three glassfuls of hock and sherry wine 
 mixed, the former to be two-thirds of the quan- 
 tity given. Slice thinly a small carrot and 
 turnip, also half a small lemon ; add a bay-leaf, 
 a blade of mace, and a bunch of thyme and 
 parsley. Lay in the fish, and stew gently over 
 a slow fire. Strain the gravy, thicken with 
 butter rolled in flour, season with salt and 
 pepper, and serve the fish on a hot dish, with the 
 sauce poured over. Time, twenty to thirty 
 minutes to stew. Probable cost. Is. to 2s. each. 
 Sufficient, three fish for this sauce. 
 
 MUSH OF INDIAN CORN. 
 
 A recipe for this wholesome dish is given by 
 William Cobbett, in his " Treatise on Cobbett's 
 Corn." " Tou put," he says, " some water or 
 milk into a pot, and bring it to boil; you then 
 let the flour or meal out of one hand gently into 
 the milk or water, keeping stirring with the 
 other, until you have got it into a pretty stiff 
 state ; after which you let it stand ten minutes 
 or a quarter of an hour, or less, or even only 
 one minute, and then take it out, and put it 
 into a dish or bowl. This sort of half pudding, 
 half porridge, you eat either hot or cold, with a 
 little salt, or without it. - It is frequently eaten 
 unaccompanied with any liquid matter ; but the 
 general way is to have a porringer of milk, and, 
 taking off a lump of the mush and putting it 
 into the milk, you take up a spoonful at a time, 
 having a little milk along with it; and this is 
 called mush and milk." 
 MUSHROOM. 
 
 There has hitherto existed a strong pre- 
 judice against the horse mushroom, but now 
 this is much preferred by many people to the 
 common mushroom, and many tons are eaten 
 annually. The horse mushroom differs from 
 the common mushroom in the flesh not turn- 
 ing brown when broken and in the gills 
 remaining dry when old. There is also the 
 tufted mushroom, which is edible. This grows 
 in tufts or clusters, and may be recognised 
 amongst true mushrooms by its tufted habit of 
 growth. The flavour is quite excellent, and 
 there is now being made an attempt to cul- 
 tivate the species. A French authority, writing 
 on fungi, states that any poisonous fungi can 
 be rendered harmless by being soaked in vine- 
 gar and water for two hours. After that they 
 must be washed well and put on in cold water 
 to boil. Then, after boiling for half an hour, 
 they should be strained and washed again- 
 They will then, he declares, be fit for food. 
 Generally speakingj- however, it is best to have 
 nothing to do with poisonous fungi of any kind. 
 
 Of the mushrooms generally eaten in England, 
 and which may be partaken of with impunity, 
 the chief is the, common mushroom (^Agaricm 
 campestris). "When eaten," says Dr. Lankes- 
 ter, " this mushroom should be fresh gathered, 
 as after Iseeping it acquires properties that 
 reudet it liable to disagree. The Agaricus 
 
IMUS 
 
 423 
 
 MUS 
 
 campeHris may^ however, be dried quickly, and 
 ^ept whole^ooie for any length, of time, or they 
 may be powdered and thus kept. When salted 
 fresh and pressed they yield the sauce known by 
 the najne of '• ketcnup,' of ' catsiip,' The mush- 
 room gives a iine ha. our to soups, and greatly 
 improves beef-tea. When arrowroot^ and weak 
 broths are distasteful to persons with delicate 
 stomachs, a littje seasoning with ketchup will 
 generally form an agreeabje change." The 
 inushrobm itself may be cooked in: a variety of 
 ways. Some roast, them, basting them with 
 melted butter, and serve with white wine sauce. 
 They may be made into patties and added to 
 fricassees. In France they steep them in oil, 
 adding salt, pepper, and a little garlic; they 
 are then tossed up in a small stewpan over a 
 brisk fire, with chopped parsley and a little 
 lemon-juice. The morel is occasionally found in 
 Great Britain. In the opinion of fungus-eaters 
 it is a great luxury. It is prepared in the same 
 way as the common mushroom, but its flavour 
 is more delicate. Ordinarily it is obtained from 
 our Italian warehouses, but, if sought for about 
 the beginning of the summer, it may not unfre- 
 quently be found in Qur orchards and woods. 
 Another fungud met with in English markets is 
 the truffle. It. is_ more uncommon in this, coun- 
 try, .than the morel,, but it is. imported in con- 
 siderable quantities from France. .Truffles grow 
 entirely underground, and .truffle-hunting dogs, 
 and even ..siyin?, are trained to discover them. 
 They impart a, fine flavour to soups and gravies, 
 and enter into the. composition of stuffing, for 
 boars', heads,, fish, and other, kinds of animal 
 food. In. his valuable work ■. on the " Esculent 
 Funguses of Eng.land," Dr. Badham remarks of 
 the odours and tastes of mushrooms that tooth 
 one and the other are far more numerous in this 
 class of plant than, in ai^y other with which we 
 are acquainted. Some of them give out power- 
 fully disagreeable odours, whilst others yield the 
 most agreeable of perfumes. . The authority just 
 mentioned enumerates'no fewer than forty-eight 
 species of milshroom, all of which are good to 
 cat. The great objection, however, to iniish- 
 rooms, is that some of them are very poisonous ; 
 and mistakes occur so often that only persons 
 skilled in distinguishing the various species 
 ought to be trusted for administering them in- 
 discriminately as food. On the Continent, per- 
 sons are specially appointed to examine all fungi 
 sent to market, so that only those which are safe 
 to eat are allowed to be sold. According to l)r. 
 Badham, the majority of fungi are harmless, 
 but his account of the poisonoiis effects of the 
 minbWty, and iihe post-mortem appearance of the 
 organs of those who have died through partak- 
 ing^ of them, are enough to alarm the most stout- 
 hearted. 
 
 MUSHROOM KETCHUP. 
 
 -Mushroom ketchup is more highly esteemed 
 and more generally useful than amy other. /"It is 
 best when made of the large mushroom flaps, 
 fully .'ripe,, fresh, and perfectly dxjr — that is, 
 gathered during dry weather. If this. point is 
 not attended- to, the. ketchup .will not keep. Do 
 hot .wash, or skin the mushrooms, but carefully 
 reuiOv.e any decayed, dirty, or worm-eaten por- 
 tions; cut off about half an inch from the end 
 
 of the stalks, then break the rest into small 
 pieces, put them into an earthen jar, and strew 
 three-quarters of a pound of salt amongst two 
 gallons of mushrooms,-scattering the larger por- 
 tion over the top. Let them remain all nighty 
 and the next day stir them gently with a 
 wooden spoon, and .repeat this three times a 
 day i,Qr two days. At the end of that time put 
 the jar into a cool oven for half ah hour, then 
 strain through a coarse cloth the liquid which 
 flows froiu the contents, and let it boil for a 
 quarter of an hour. Do not squeeze the mush- 
 rooms. To every quart of the liquid put a 
 quarter of an ounce each of Jamaica pepper and 
 black pepper, and two blades of mace. Boil 
 again until the quantity is reduced one-half. 
 Pour it out, and let it stand until cool, then put 
 it into perfectly dry Ibot'tles, being careful to- 
 leave- the sediinent, which will have settled at 
 the /bottom, undisturbed. Eesin the corks, or 
 tie bladder over them, and keep in a cool, dry 
 place. The liquid will have a better appear- 
 ance if it '.is strained through a tamis after 
 being poured from the sediment. If liked, two 
 or three drops of brandy may be put into each 
 pint of ketchup. It is well to use small bottles, 
 so that the liquid may not be long kept after it 
 has been exposed to^ the air. Probable cost of 
 mushrooms, variable. 
 
 MUSHROOM KETCHUP (another way). 
 
 Proceed as before directed, but let the mush- 
 rooms stand twelve hours xiiily> warming them 
 over the' fire to extract -the juice. Strain the 
 whole ihraugh a sieve, and boil and skim the 
 liquor, a,dding to each^^quart, when clear, equal 
 quantities of ginger, black peppercorns, and 
 allspice, about one and a half ounces in all, two 
 small blades of mace, and five, or six cloves. 
 The mushrooms may be pressed dry after the 
 juice has been strained from them : the juice 
 may be used for flavouring hashes, or any. dish 
 where great delicacy is not required. Time, five 
 miniites to boil without spice, fifteen minutes 
 with. 
 MUSHROOM KETCHUP (another way). 
 
 Prepare the mushrooms and salt' them as in 
 the last recipe. Let them stand twelve hours, 
 then work them well with the fingers, and leave 
 them again for thirty-six hours, stirring them 
 occasionally with a wooden spoon. At the end 
 of that time measure them into an earthen jar, 
 and with each quar^ put half an ounce of all- 
 spice, three-quarters of an ounce of black pep- 
 per, and three-quarters of an ounce of Jamaica 
 pepper. Cover the jar closely, set it in a pan of 
 boiling water, and let it boil gently for fully two 
 hours. Take it out, let it stand until cool, then 
 pour off the juice into a clean pan, as clear as 
 possible, and boil the liquid for half an hour. 
 Skim, it thoroughly, and put it into a jar. When 
 quite cold, pour it through a jelly-bag until it is 
 bright and clear. It must be poured gently, so 
 as not to disturb , the sediment. Put a tea- 
 spoonful of brandy with each half-pint of liquor, 
 and pour it into small bottles. Cork these 
 securely, and either tie a piece of bladder over 
 them or resin the corks, and keep the ketchup "in 
 a cool, dry place. When pouring the juice from 
 the mushrooms do not squeeze them, or the 
 liquid will look thick and muddy. The residue 
 
MUS 
 
 424 
 
 MUS 
 
 need not be wasted, for, after a common ketchup 
 has been made as described, it can be dried and 
 used for mushroom powder (see Mtjshbooms, 
 Powdeeed). Probable cost of mushrooms, vari- 
 able. Suxiicieut, a table-spoonful of ketchup to 
 half a pini: of saace. 
 MUSHROOM KETCHUP, COMMON. 
 
 After the clear juice has been poured from the 
 mushrooms, put them into a saucepan, and 
 warm them on the fire. Afterwards press 
 the mushrooms through a tamis until every 
 particle of juice has been extracted. Strain the 
 liquid, boil it for five minutes, then with each 
 pint put a cupful of strong beer, half a blade 
 of mace, a quarter of an ounce of ginger, three 
 cloves, and a quarter of an ounce of allspice. 
 Simmer gently for about fifteen minutes, and 
 when cold bottle for use, with the spices equally 
 divided. Sufficient, a table-spoonful will fully 
 flavour half a pint of thickened sauce or gravy. 
 
 MUSHROOM OMELET. 
 
 Chop enough mushrooms to fill a couple of 
 table-spoons, and fry them in butter until 
 almost done, adding salt and pepper and some 
 mixed herbs. Then add four eggs, and finish 
 in the same way as an ordinary omelet. (See 
 Pbinoiples or Cookery, pp. vii. and viii.) 
 
 MUSHROOM PIE. 
 
 Butter a pie-dish, put a layer of mushrooms at 
 the bottom, sprinkle some pepper and salt and a 
 few pieces of butter over ; then a layer of sliced 
 boiled potatoes. Continue to put mushrooms 
 and potatoes in alternate layers until the dish 
 is heaped up, then cover with a short crust, 
 decorate nicely with leaves, etc., and bake in 
 a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 MUSHROOMS (a la Bordelais). 
 
 Proceed in all respects as for grilled mush- 
 rooms, but serve with a sauce of oil or melted 
 butter, in which are minced young onions, pars- 
 ley, and a little garlic; or serve with a sauce 
 made by boiling the trimmings of the mushrooms 
 in good brown gravy, seasoned with cayenne 
 pepper and salt, and thickened with the yolks 
 of eggs. Time to broil, about twelve minutes; 
 to bake, fifteen to twenty minutes. 
 
 MUSHROOMS {k la Casse-tout). 
 
 This mode of cooking mushrooms is borrowed 
 from the French, as its name implies. Their 
 hearth fires are particularly adapted for it. 
 Place a baking-tin on the hot hearth, on which 
 lay toast well buttered; cover with mushrooms, 
 carefully cleaned, keeping the cup side upper- 
 most, and placing upon each mushroom a bit of 
 butter, and a seasoning of pepper and salt. 
 Medium-sized flap mushrooms do best for this 
 dish; they should be freshly gathered. A glass 
 is sometimes fixed closely over the mushrooms, 
 but for cooking mushrooms in any quantity, an 
 earthenware cover, with a flat top, to allow of 
 the wood-embers being placed arotrad and on 
 it, is used. Serve on a hot dish. Time, ten to 
 twelve minutes. 
 MUSHROOMS (& la Cr%me). 
 
 Cut the mushrooms in pieces, and toss them 
 in butter seasoned with salt over a brisk fire; 
 add a very little nutmeg, and a bunch of herbs. 
 When they are done enough, and the butter 
 
 nearly all absorbed, take out the herbs ; add the 
 yolk of an egg beaten up in some good cream, 
 make very hot, and serve. 
 MUSHROOMS AND BACON. 
 
 Cleanse the mushrooms thoroughly. Fry the 
 bacon very gently. When it is almost done 
 enough put in the mushrooms, and fry them 
 also. Lift the bacon on to a hot dish as soon as 
 it is sufficiently cooked. Sprinkle pepper and 
 salt on the mushrooms, and place them in the 
 centre of the dish. Serve very hot. 
 
 MUSHROOMS AND EGGS. 
 
 (See Eggs and Mushbooms.) 
 
 MUSHROOMS AND KIDNEYS. 
 
 Split the kidneys, egg and bread-crumb them, 
 and fry gently in butter for fifteen minutes. Put 
 them on one side, and fry some mushrooms in 
 the pan the kidneys were cooked in. Add 
 salt and pepper to taste, and lay the mush- 
 rooms on a hot dish. Place half a kidney on 
 each one, and serve garnished with mashed 
 potatoes. 
 
 MUSHROOMS AND MACARONI. 
 
 Boil a quarter of a pound of macaroni in a 
 pint and a half of water, with a little pepper and 
 salt, for twenty minutes, or till a piece of it 
 can be crushed between the finger and thumb. 
 Drain the macaroni, put it into a clean stewpan, 
 pour a quarter of a pint of stock over it, with an 
 ounce of grated cheese. Stir it over a gentle 
 fire for five minutes ; turn out on a hot dish. 
 Have ready half a pound of mushrooms, put 
 them on the macaroni, and serve. To prepare the 
 mushrooms, wash and skin them, cut them into 
 slices, and put them into a stewpan with an 
 ounce of butter and a little pepper and salt. 
 Toss them over the fire for ten minutes, 
 take them up, and they are ready. Probable 
 cost. Is. 
 
 MUSHROOMS, ANTIDOTE TO POISONOUS. 
 
 " All fungi should be used with caution, for 
 even the champignon, and edible garden mush- 
 rooms, possess deleterious qualities, when grown 
 in certain places. All the edible species should 
 be thoroughly masticated before being taken 
 into the stomach, as this greatly lessens the 
 effect of poisons. When accidents of this sort 
 happen, vomiting should be immediately excited, 
 and then the vegetable acids should be given — 
 either vinegar, lemon-juice, or that of apples; 
 after which, give ether and anti-spasmodic reme- 
 dies, to stop the excessive bilious vomiting. In- 
 fusions of gall-nut, oak-bark, and Peruvian bark 
 are recommended as capable of neutralising the 
 poisonous principle of mushrooms. It is, how- 
 ever, the safest way not to eat any of the good 
 but less common kinds until they have been 
 soaked in vinegar. Spirit of wine and vinegar 
 extract some part of their poison, and tannin 
 matter decomposes the greatest part of it." — 
 " Botanist's Companion. In Poland and Eus- 
 sia there are above thirty edible sorts of fungi 
 in common use among the peasantry. They are 
 gathered in all the different stages of their 
 growth, and used in various ways — raw, boiled, 
 stewed, roasted ; and, being hung up and dried 
 in their stoves or chimneys, form a part of their 
 winter stock of provisions. 
 
MUS 
 
 425 
 
 MUS 
 
 MUSHROOMS (au Beup.e) 
 
 Trim thei stems, and rub two pints of button 
 mushrooms with flannel dipped in salt. Put 
 them in a stewpan with three or four ounces of 
 good, butter, slightly browned, and stir them 
 very gently, to get the butter well about them. 
 Shake the pan over a moderate fire, that the 
 mushrooms may not settle at the bottom. When 
 they have well imbibed the butter, add a little 
 pounded mace, salt, and cayenne, and cover 
 closely by the side of the fire, to simmer until 
 tender, when they will be found excellent with- 
 out any other addition. Serve them hot on toast 
 at breakfast or luncheon. If to be eaten cold, 
 drain them from the butter, which may be used 
 as a flavouring for other dishes, and put them in 
 a cool place, to be served next day, but they 
 will keep for several days. When mushrooms 
 are plentiful, they may be kept thus prepared 
 many weeks, in pots, with a little clarified 
 butter run over the top to exclude the air. 
 Warm up when required. Time, about twenty 
 to twenty-five minutes altogether. 
 
 MUSHROOM SAUCE FOR CHICKEN. 
 
 (See. Chickeit, MTtSHBooM Satjoe eoe.) 
 
 MUSHROOM SAUCE, FOWL, BOILED, WITH. 
 
 (^See Fowl, Boiled, etc.) 
 MUSHROOMS (au Gratin). 
 
 Skin, wash, drain, and wipe dry some freshly- 
 gathered fiap mushrooms. Cut the stems to 
 within a quarter of an inch, and fill the cup with 
 the following seasoning. Grated ham or bacon 
 (rather fat), two ounces, shredded shallot, half 
 an ounce, a small bunch of chopped parsley, 
 some thyme, a little powdered mace, and pepper 
 and salt. Simmer the seasoning for five min- 
 utes in a little butter, and add the yolks of two 
 eggs. Stand the mushrooms, well dredged with 
 browned crumbs (raspings), in a flat baking- 
 dish, which should be well smeared with butter, 
 and bake in a moderate oven. When done, 
 serve piled on a hot dish, with some brown sauce 
 around the mushrooms. Time, about fifteen min- 
 utes to bake. Probable cost, according to season. 
 
 MUSHROOMS, BAKED OR BROILED. 
 
 For either mode of cooking the flaps are best. 
 We give the preference to baked mushrooms, 
 because the whole of the juice is preserved. 
 Flap mushrooms should be washed and dried, 
 and the tops peeled. Put them, without th& 
 stems, into a tin baking-dish, season with pep- 
 per, salt, and a very little pounded mace, if 
 liked. Small bits of butter laid over the top 
 will, with the juice that flows from them, be 
 the only sauce required. Button mushrooms are 
 best for stewing, pickling, or potting. Broiled 
 mushrooms should be served on a hot dish, with 
 a small piece of butter on each, and a few drops 
 of lemon- juice squeezed over. Time, twenty 
 minutes to bake, ten to twelve to broil.- The 
 probable cost will be Id. each. Sufficient, four 
 medium-sized mushrooms to each person. {See 
 also Mtishbooms, Gbilled.) 
 
 MUSHROOMS, BUTTERED. 
 
 {See BUTTEBED MtrSHEOOMS.) 
 MUSHROOMS, CURRIED. 
 
 Skin and wash half a pound of button mush- 
 rooms. Melt an ounce of butter in a saucepan. 
 
 put the mushrooms in with a seasoning of pep- 
 per and salt, and fry for a few minutes. Add 
 sufficient curry-sauce to just cover the mush- 
 rooms. Cook slowly for about fifteen minutes 
 longer. Put them on slices of crisp toast placed 
 on & dish, pour the sauce round the dish, and 
 serve with plainly cooked rice. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 MUSHROOMS, DRY. 
 
 Mushrooms prepared in this way will be found 
 useful when fresh ones are not to be had. They 
 are prepared precisely like powdered mushrooms 
 (see Mtjshbooms, Powdered), but button mush- 
 rooms and just-opened ones do best. Do not 
 draw their juice, but place them at once in a 
 slow oven on white thick paper. They will 
 shrink, and lose their round appearance, but if 
 carefully done, and not burnt, they will be found 
 excellent for hashes, etc. They need only be 
 put into the gravy when cold, and warmed up, 
 to swell to nearly their original size. Keep 
 them in brown-paper bags hung near the fire. 
 
 MUSHROOMS, EDIBLE AND POISONOUS, TO 
 DISTINGUISH. 
 
 The most simple and easy mode of testing the 
 quality of field fungi is to introduce a silver 
 spoon, or piece of coin of that metal, or an 
 onion, into the vessel in which mushrooms are 
 seething : if on taking either of them out they 
 assume a bluish-black or dark discoloured ap- 
 pearance, there are certainly some dangerous 
 fuiigi in the pan; if, on the other hand, the 
 metal or onion on being withdrawn from the 
 liquor wears its natural appearance, the fungi 
 may be regarded as wholesome and innoxious. 
 
 MUSHROOMS, FORCEMEAT OF. 
 
 Put a lump of butter into a stewpan, in whicli 
 stew some button mushrooms, or some small 
 newly-opened ones, previously peeled, and. with 
 part of the stalk taken off. Season with cay- 
 enne, a little powdered mace, and salt. In about 
 six or seven minutes, when they have been well 
 tossed in the pan, put them on a dish set slop* 
 ing to drain off the butter, and when cold, have 
 ready a quarter of a pound of fine bread-crumbs ■ 
 mix these with a quarter of a pound of the mush- 
 rooms finely minced ; add a very little mace and 
 nutmeg, a tea-spoonful of grated leirion-peel, 
 and more salt or cayenne, if necessary, but the 
 flavour of the mushrooms should predominate, 
 and too much seasoning would destroy it. 
 Moisten with some of the butter in which they 
 were stewed, and break up small an ounce and 
 a half of fresh butter. Bind the mixture with 
 the yolks of two eggs, pound all in a mortar, 
 and make into balls, to be used for soup, or 
 fried and served with roast fowls, or round 
 minced veal. Boiled fowls should have some of 
 the forcemeat put inside. 
 
 MUSHROOMS, FORCEMEAT OF (another way). 
 {See FoBOEMBAT or Musheooms.) 
 
 MUSHROOMS FOR GARNISH. 
 
 Take fresh-gathered button mushrooms, cut off 
 the stems, and wash them in a little cold water, 
 then drain. Have ready, squeezed the juice of 
 half a lemon, put it, with a small cupful of cold 
 water, into an enamelled stewpan, into which 
 throw each mushroom as it is peeled; add an 
 ounce of butter and a little salt. Place the 
 
MUS 
 
 426 
 
 iwus 
 
 stewpan. over the fire, bring it quickly to a boili 
 and, in five minutes, use tlie mushrooms as re- 
 quired. A good cook will know how to utilise 
 the stems and peel of the mushrooms. In this 
 case they may be chopped small and stewed in 
 the gravy left after' boiling the buttons. These 
 trimmings are useful for flavouring dishes or 
 soups. 
 
 MUSHROOMS FOR GARNISH (another way).. 
 
 (See GrABNISH, MUSHBOOMS roE.) 
 MUSHROOMS, FRIED. 
 
 Small mushrooms are best for frying, but large 
 ones are also often cooked thus. Peel and wash 
 them, and dry them well. Cook them in a fry- 
 ing-pan with a little butter, turning them 
 about well. When done, serve with the liquor 
 from the pan poured over, first seasoning it with 
 salt and pepper, and a little lemon- juice; or 
 the liquor may be poured over a slice of fried 
 or toasted bread, and the mushrooms piled on 
 top. Mushrooms are often fried in bacon fat', 
 after the bacon is taken from the pan. {See 
 Mushrooms and Bacon.) 
 
 MUSHROOMS, GRILLED. 
 
 Cut the stalks, peel, and score lightly the 
 underside of large mushroom flaps, which should 
 be firm, and fresh ga,thered, Season them with 
 pepper and salt, and steep them in a marinade 
 of oil or melted butter. If quite sound; they 
 may be laid on a gridiron, over a slow, even 
 fire, and grilled on both sides, but they are best 
 done in the oven if at all bruised. Either way, 
 serve with a sauce of melted butter, or on a ho't 
 dish, with a piece of butter on each mushroom, 
 and a squeeze of lemon-juice. Time, about 
 twelve minutes to grill ; forty minutes- to steep 
 in marinade. . .Sufiicient, one large mushroom for 
 each person. 
 
 MUSHROOMS, OYSTER PATTIES WITH. 
 
 ((See Otstebs, Patties of, with Musheooms.) 
 MUSHROOMS, PICKLED. 
 
 - Take :button mushrooms, as nearly as possible 
 of the same size (small ones are best) and freshly 
 gathered. Cut off the stalks, and rub away the 
 outet skin with a piece of new flannel and some 
 fine salt, -:Ejinse them in salted spring water, 
 drain quipkly, and dry in a soft cloth until no 
 moistujfe hangs about them. Boil together 
 spice and vinegar in proportion to the mush- 
 rooms to be pickled, allowing nearly a quart of 
 vinegar, to a quart of th?. buttons, and with one 
 qui^^t^.9| ithe(best white wine vinegar put three 
 snjall.bfades ;of mace, an ounce of crushed ginger, 
 half the, quantity of white peppercorns, and a 
 small pinch of cayenne. When the pickle boils 
 put in the mushrooms, and continue the boil- 
 ing until they are rather soft, which will be in 
 from eight to ten minutes, according to theii: 
 size. Pill jars, or large-mouthed bottles, and 
 distribute the spice as equally as possible in 
 them. When cold, tie down securely with 
 bladder, and remove to a dry place. Field 
 mushrooms are much to be preferred to those 
 artificially raised. 
 
 MUSHROOMS PICKLED IN BRINE. 
 
 Prepare button mushrooms precisely as 
 directed in the preceding recipe, but make a 
 brine as follows. Boil together two quarts of 
 
 water, eight ounces of salt, three small blades 
 .of mai'ce, aii ounce or more of bruised ginger, 
 and the same of whole white pepper. Skim 
 while boiling, add the prepared button mush- 
 rooms, and boil slowly for a few minutes. Fill 
 well-dried bottles while the mushrooms are still 
 hot, and when quite cold cork the bottles, and 
 tie down with skin. A small quantity of salad- 
 oil poured on the top of each bottle will 
 effectually preserve the contents. 
 
 MUSHROOMS, PICKLED, SAUCE OF. 
 
 To half a pint of brown gravy add a table- 
 spoonful of good mushroom ketchup, some 
 pickled mushrooms, and a little of their liquor. 
 Put the above ingredients into a saucepan, set 
 it over the fire, and stir in an ounce and a half 
 of butter, blended with a tea-spoonful of flour. 
 It should not boil, but when thick, like smooth 
 cream, serve over roast qr broiled fowls. Time, 
 about ten minutes. 
 
 MUSHROOMS, POWDERED. 
 
 Get large mushrooms, but remove the brown 
 end and the outside skin, and see that they are 
 quite free from grit and dirt. Put them into a 
 stewpan with a couple of onions, each stuck 
 with six cloves, two blades of mace, some white 
 pepper, and salt. Place them by the side of 
 the fire to heat gradually, and draw their juice, 
 then shake the pan over a clear fire until the 
 moisture has dried up; this must be done 
 briskly, or the mushrooms will get burnt and 
 useless. > Dry them in a cool oven; they will 
 require to be put in several times, until they 
 can be reduced to a fine powder. Fill quite 
 dry bottles, and keep in a dry place, the bottles 
 to be corked and sealed. Sufficient for a gallon. 
 
 MUSHROOMS, SAUCE OF, BROWN. 
 
 Button or flap mushrooms may be used for 
 this sauce. They should be rinsed in cold water, 
 drained, and dried in a soft cloth, and, if flap 
 ones, cut into pieces. Simmer the mushrooms, 
 without stalks, in half a pint of beef gravy, add 
 a little mushroom ketchup, and an ounce of 
 butter, blended with flour. If liked, flavour 
 with lemon-peel, and squeeze in- some of the 
 juice before serving. Time, twenty to twenty- 
 flve minutes. 
 
 MUSHROOMS, SAUCE OF, WHITE. 
 
 To preserve the colour of this sauce see that 
 the mushrooms are well cleansed from the soil 
 that hangs about them, and drop them, first 
 removing the outer skin by means of salt, into a 
 bowl of water and lemon-juice. Drain, wipe 
 dry,, and chop them finely, without the stalks. 
 Put them with an. ounce of butter into a stew- 
 pan to simmer, until tender, but do not let the 
 butter, get colour. Add half a pint of bechamel 
 sauce, and simmer a few minutes longer, when 
 the sauce should be rubbed through- a fine sieve. 
 Serve hot. . When required to he warmed, place 
 it into a vessel of boiling water. Serve poured 
 over boiled fowls. Time, fifteen minutes alto- 
 
 f ether. Sufficient, one pint of mushrooms for 
 alf a pint of sauce. 
 
 MUSHROOMS, STEWED. 
 
 Take a pint and a half of button mushrooms ; 
 clean them, and put them in an enamelled stew- 
 pan with three ounces of butter, first melted and 
 
MUS 
 
 427 
 
 MUS 
 
 allowed to brown a little. Stir 'them gently; 
 and shake over a moderate fire in order that the 
 butter may be well distributed over the mush- 
 rooms. Then add a very little powdered mace or 
 nutmeg, with salt, white pepper, and cayenne to 
 taste. Cover, and cook till done. They may be 
 served on toast, or with a garnish of croutons. 
 
 MUSHROOMS, STUFFED. 
 
 Take some large mushrooms, skin and trim 
 them, stew them in a little broth, but not too 
 much. Take them out and put in the stalks 
 and trimmings, stew them till quite ' tender, 
 drain them, mince them very fine, mix them 
 with a little butter, some pepper, salt, and a, 
 very little minced parsley. Lay this on the in- 
 side of the mushrooms, strew fine bread-crumbs 
 over them, and bake in a Dutch oven, 
 
 MUSHROOM TOAST. 
 
 Stew over a gentle fire a quart of nicely-pre- 
 pared mushrooms (just opened), first dissolv- 
 ing three ounces of butter in the stewpan, 
 and seasoning the mushrooms with white pepper 
 or cayenne, a salt-spoonful of mace, powdered ; 
 stir them carefully, and toss them in the pan to 
 prevent burning, and until the butter is dried 
 and slightly brown, when add half a pint of 
 thin cream, the grated rind of half a lemon, 
 and a little salt, and stew until the mushrooms 
 are tender. Beef-gravy may be substituted for 
 the cream, and th^ grated lemon-'peel omitted. 
 Serve on buttered bread, fried or grilled, which 
 should be thick enough to allow of the inside 
 being scooped out. Serve hot, and squeeze the 
 juice of a lemon over.: Time, fifteen minutes 
 to stew in butter ; five minutes in gravy. 
 
 MUSSELS. 
 
 Mussels are cheap and full of flavour. They 
 may be used with advantage instead of oysters 
 for fish sauces and stews. Many people are 
 afraid of them, thinking they are poisonous, but 
 they are wholesome enough if well washed, and 
 if the piece of weed, and also a small crab often 
 found inside, are removed before serving. They 
 should be avoided in those months which have 
 not s in their names. 
 
 MUSSELS (a la Mariniere). 
 
 Cleanse thoroughly from grit two quarts of 
 musselsi, by scraping and washing them in 
 several waters. Put them in a stewpan with a 
 small sljced. onion, a sprig or two of parsley, a 
 salt-spoonful of pepper, an d a quarter of a pint 
 of white wine. Cover the pan and shake it 
 over the fire. As the mussels open and are done, 
 take them out one by one, and remove one of 
 the shells from each. .Put the fish in a deep 
 dish in the oven to keep warm. Then strain the 
 liquor, and rinse and wipe the stewpan. Melt 
 in it ail ounce of butter, add two shallots finely 
 chopped, washed and squeezed in a cloth 
 several times; fey these for three minutes, add 
 one ounce of flour,, and mix smoothly; add the 
 liquor of the mussels. Boil for five minutes and 
 skim; add a table-spoonful of finely-chopped 
 parsley. Ta.ke the dish of mussels out of the 
 oven, pour the sauce over -them, and serve. 
 
 MUSSELS {%L la Poulette). 
 
 Prepare the mussels according to the ■ direc- 
 tions given for Mussels, Boiled. Strain the 
 
 liquor,' beard the mussels and ■ dip • thein in 
 plenty of hot water, 'then put them on a soft 
 cloth to drain. Make a sauce as follows. Blend 
 together an- ounce of butter with an equal quan- 
 tity of floiir,. and stir it over a slow , fire for a 
 minute or two, then moisten with the. strained 
 liquor, and add two dessert-spoonfuls of chopped 
 parsley, previously scalded. Take the pan off 
 the fire, and stir in the-beaten yolka of two eggs 
 and another piece ^. of butter, about, half an 
 ounce. Put the mussels on a dish in their shells, 
 detached, and pour the sauce over. 
 
 MUSSELS AND RICE. 
 
 Cleanse the shells in :the usual way.. Boil the 
 mussels and remove the- beards. Strain their 
 liquor lor use. : Pick, wash,; and soak thirteen 
 ounces of rice, and boil as for curry. When 
 ready, season with pepper,"salt, nutmeg, and add 
 an ounce and a half of butter, with a little of 
 the mussel liquor and the fish, which should be 
 all warmed together, or. warm up the , inussels 
 for the centre of a dish, and' place theTice round 
 as a border. Time, fifteen to twenty-five min- 
 utes to boil rice. 
 
 MUSSELS, BOILED. 
 
 Brush the shells thoroughly, and wash the 
 mussels in several waters, in order that they may 
 be entirely free from grit.-- Put them ijito a 
 deep saucepan (withouC water) and Bprinkle a 
 little salt. over them. Spread a napMn upon 
 them in the saucepan, put the lid on,- and scald 
 them over a sharp fire. Shake them about 
 briskly, in order to keep them from burning. 
 As soon as the shells open, itake the saucepan 
 off the fire, strain the liquor, into a bowl, and 
 take out the fish. 'V'ery carefully remove the 
 little piece of weed which is found under the 
 black tongue. If the mussels are left too long 
 on the fire they will become leathery. 
 
 MUSSELS, FRIED. 
 
 Cleanse and boil in the usual way, but when 
 bearded lay them out to drain on a soft cloth. 
 Make a thick batter with their liquor, two eggs, 
 an ounce of butter, ajid as much flour as will be 
 required ; season with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and 
 a little grated lemon-peel and minced parsley. 
 Thicken this batter over a slow fire, pour it when 
 quite smooth and thick into- a basin, and -with a 
 fork dip each mussel into it, and - when' well 
 covered place each one on a board to get cold 
 and harden, when they should be rolled in fine 
 bread-crumbs, and fried in boiling lard to a light 
 brown. Serve, arranged high in the centre of a 
 dish, with parsley as a garnish, 'or as a pjarnish 
 for fried or boiled fish. Time, five or six min- 
 utes to fry. 
 
 MUSSELS, KETCHUP OF. 
 
 When carefully prepared and, cooked, mussels 
 make a variety of wholesome and agreeable 
 dishes. The shells must, be first cleansed by 
 repeated washing and brushing, and afterwards 
 be well rinsed in a colander until the drippings 
 are quite clear. Put them into a large iron 
 saucepan with only the water that hangs. upon 
 the shells. Cover closely, and shake the mus- 
 sels while heating to expedite their opening. 
 As soon as this is accomplished (they will be 
 hard and indigestible if kept over the fire too 
 long), -turn them into a clean earthen pan. 
 
MUS 
 
 428 
 
 MUS 
 
 beard them, and remove the weed, crab, and 
 black part. Take a pint and a half of care- 
 fully-picked mussels, and pound them in a 
 mortar, then boil with a pint of made wine or 
 cider, and a full pint of the juice that flowed 
 from the mussels when boiled, a sprinkling of 
 cayenne, and a tea-sj)oonful of powdered mace. 
 When sufficiently boiled and skimmed, strain 
 through a hair sieve. Bottle when cold, and 
 see that the bottles are sealed as well as corked. 
 
 MUSSELS, PICKLED. 
 
 Cleanse and prepare as before directed. Boil 
 until the shell opens, but no longer. Reserve 
 their juice and the water from the boiling. To 
 this liquor mix in vinegar equal quantities of 
 mace, whole pepper, and whole allspice. Boil 
 together for five minutes, and pour the liquid 
 cold over the mussels. Add salt if required. 
 The mussels may be eaten at once, but corked 
 tightly will keep for many days. 
 
 MUSSELS, RAGOUT OF. 
 
 Cleanse the shells, and boil the mussels as be- 
 fore directed (see Mtjssels, Ketchup or). When 
 bearded put them into a basin, and the juice 
 which flows from them into another. Dissolve 
 a lump of butter in a stewpan, mince some 
 parsley, button mushrooms, and shallots, if 
 liked. Stew them in the butter with a seasoning 
 of mace, pepper, and salt, if required (though 
 this last must be used sparingly) ; moisten with 
 the liquor, and some gravy; if it be not enough 
 thicken with flour, and put in the mussels to 
 pet hot through, but do not- let them boil. 
 Time, a quarter of an hour. 
 
 MUSSELS, SAUCE OF. 
 
 Clean, boil, and beard the mussels as before 
 directed (see Mussels, Boiled), put them with 
 their juice into a stewpan, season with cayenne 
 and salt, and let therh heat slowly, but do not 
 let them boil. Stir in rich melted butter or 
 thick cream until the sauce is of the proper 
 consistency. A dessert-spoonful of vinegar may 
 be added. Strain the juice of the mussels 
 through a piece of muslin. 
 
 MUSSELS, SCALLOPED. 
 
 Cleanse the shells as before directed (see 
 Mussels, Ketchup op). Beard the mussels 
 when boiled, and reserve the juice that flows 
 from them; strain it through muslin. Butter 
 some scallop-shells or patty-pans, and have 
 ready flnely-prepared bread-crumbs, seasoned 
 with cayenne, and a little white pepper and salt. 
 Strew some of the crumbs over the bottom of the 
 patty-pans or shells, and lay mussels over them ; 
 cover with the seasoned bread-crumbs and bits 
 of butter, continuing until mussels and crumbs 
 are used up. Moisten with the reserved 
 liquor, and run a little oiled butter over the 
 top. Brown in the oven, and serve hot. Time, 
 a quarter of an hour. 
 
 MUSSELS, SOUP OF. 
 
 The basis of this soup may be either a fish 
 or meat stock. Take half the quantity of stock 
 required for the soup, mix with it a pint of 
 pounded mussels, previously boiled and the 
 beards ^aken off. Pound also in a mortar the 
 hard-boiled yolks of three eggs, with a lump of 
 butter, a little mace, cayenne, and salt; boil 
 
 for thirty minutes, then strain. . Add the re- 
 mainder of the stock, and simmer for a few 
 minutes longer. Put in another pint of mus- 
 sels, and make hot, but do not let the soup boil. 
 Serve with toasted sippets. If liked, the recipes 
 for Oysteb Soup may be followed, mussels being ■ 
 used instead of oysters. 
 
 MUSSELS, STEWED. 
 
 Take some carefully-prepared mussels, put 
 them into a saucepan with as much of their 
 liquor, strained and previously boiled with a 
 blade of mace, as will be required to cover them. 
 Let them stew gently, and just before boiling 
 add a thickening of butter and flour blended 
 together. Serve on hot toast. Time, eight to 
 ten minutes to stew. 
 
 MUSTARD. 
 
 Of mustard, two sorts are cultivated, the black 
 and the white. Both are annuals and natives of 
 Britain. The former is cultivated chiefly as a 
 small salad, and is used, like cress, while in the 
 seed-leaves. These are mild and tender when 
 newly expanded, but when the plant has ad- 
 vanced into the rough leaves, they are rank and 
 disagreeable to eat. For spring and summer 
 consumption white mustard should be sown once 
 a week, or once a fortnight — ^in dry, warm situ- 
 ations in February and March, and afterwards 
 in any other compartment. In summer sow in 
 shady borders, if the weather be hot and sunny, 
 or have the bed shaded. To furnish gatherings 
 in winter, or early in spring, sow in frames, or 
 under small glass covers ; and when the weather 
 is frosty or very cold, in hot-beds and stoves. 
 " Black mustard," says Mr. Loudon, " is chiefly 
 cultivated in fields for the mill and for medi- 
 cinal purposes. It is sometimes, however, sown 
 in gardens, and the tender leaves are used as 
 greens eai;ly in spring. The seed-leaves, in com- 
 mon with those of the cress, radish, rape, etc., 
 are sometimes used as salad ingredients, but the 
 grand purpose for which the plant is cultivated 
 is for seeds, which, ground, produce the well- 
 known condiment. If the seeds. Dr. Cullen 
 observes, be taken fresh from the plant, and 
 ground, the powder has little pungency, but is 
 very bitter; by steeping in vinegar, however, 
 the essential oil is evolved, and the powder be- 
 comes extremely pungent. In moistening 
 mustard-seed for the table, it may be remarked 
 that it makes the best appearance when rich 
 milk is used; but the mixture in this case does 
 not keep good for more than two days. The 
 seeds of both the black and white mustard are 
 often used in an entire state medicinally." For 
 salading, mustard is sown in flat-bottomed 
 drills, about an inch deep, and six inches apart. 
 The seed cannot well be sown too thick. Cress 
 almost invariably accompanies this salad 
 herb. 
 
 MUSTARD AND CRESS FOR BREAKFAST. 
 
 The cress is an exceedingly wholesome herb, 
 which from its pungent quality promotes and 
 assists digestion. It is generally served in the 
 centre of a dish, surrounded with white and red 
 radishes. We would recommend, for weak 
 digestions, the cress without the accompani- 
 ment. Put a small salt-cellar in the centre of a 
 plate, and serve the cress around it. 
 
MUS 
 
 429 
 
 MUT 
 
 MUSTARD, FRENCH. 
 
 ((See Mustard, Mixing of.) 
 MUSTARD, GERMAN. 
 
 XSee Gebman Mustard.) 
 
 MUSTARD, MIXING OF. 
 
 It should be made with boiling water, and 
 only in sufficient quantity to last a day or two 
 at most ; if kept longer, the top of the mustard- 
 pot should be fitted with a glass stopper, but 
 fresh-made mustard is preferable. Put m a little 
 salt before mixing, and rub it quite smooth with 
 the back of a spoon. French mustard is to be 
 had of any respectable grocer, but a particular 
 flavour may be given to mustard by moistening 
 with shallot, tarragon, garlic, or any spiced 
 vinegar, instead of water. 
 
 MUSTARD SAUCE. 
 
 Blend together on a plate three ounces of 
 butter with a dessert-spoonful of browned flour, 
 half the quantity of the best mustard, and a 
 little salt. Stir these ingredients, when 
 smoothly mixed, into a quarter of a pint of boil- 
 ing water, and simmer five minutes. Add 
 enough vinegar to flavour, and serve as a sauce 
 for fresh herrings. 
 
 MUTTON. 
 
 This is the flesh of the sheep. The best mut- 
 ton, and that from which most nourishment is 
 obtained, is that of sTieep of from three to six 
 years old, and which have been fed on dry sweet 
 pastures. The flesh of sheep which have been 
 reared on salt marshes, or on farms near the 
 sea-coast, is also sweet and wholesome ; the 
 saline particles abounding in such situations im- 
 . parts both firmness and a fine flavour. To suit 
 the palate of an epicure, a sheep should never 
 be killed earlier than its third or later than its 
 fifth year, at which age the mutton will be 
 found firm and succulent, dark-coloured, and 
 full of the richest gravy. Mutton of two years 
 old is flabby, pale, and savourless. To ascer- 
 tain the age of mutton the following directions 
 may be given. Observe the colour of the 
 breastbone when a sheep is dressed, that is, 
 where the breastbone is separated. In a lamb, 
 or before the sheep is one year old, it will be 
 quite red ; from one to two years old, the upper 
 and lower bones will be changing to white, and a 
 small circle of white will appear round the edge 
 of the other bones, and the middle part of the 
 breastbone will yet continue red; at thi-ee years 
 old, a very small streak of white will be seen in 
 the middle of the four middle bones, and the 
 others will be white ; and at four years old, all 
 the breastbones will be of a white or gristly 
 colour. 
 
 MUTTON AND TOMATOES (au Gratin). 
 
 A shallow pie-dish, or better still a flat dish, 
 should be buttered and sprinkled with Jiread- 
 crumbs and grated cheese, seasoned with cay- 
 enne and a hint of nutmeg. Then put in a layer 
 of sliced tomatoes, quite ripe, skinned and 
 scalded; next some slices of cooked mutton, 
 rather thin and underdone. Add more cheese 
 and seasoning, then moisten with a little brown 
 stock, cover with bread-crumbs and grated 
 cheese, and bake for a few minutes in the oven 
 until slightly browned. 
 
 MUTTON AND VEGETABLES, STEW OF (Invalid 
 
 . . Cookery), 
 
 Take half a pound of lean neck of mutton, 
 put it in a jar with the grated red part of a small 
 carrot, a tea-spoonful each of minced onion and 
 celery, and half a tea-spoonful of chopped pars- 
 ley. Season with salt and pepper and a clove, 
 and add enough lukewarm stock to cover. 
 Cover the jar, and let the contents cook in a 
 pan of boiling water for two hours. A tea- 
 spoonful of rice or sago may be added when the 
 contents of the jar have reached simmering 
 point. Eemove the clove, and serve. Or the 
 liquor may be strained, and the vegetables 
 pressed through a sieve and added to it. 
 
 MUTTON BONE JELLY (Invalid Cookery). 
 
 Take four shankbones of mutton, clean them 
 thoroughly, and crack them. Put them in a 
 pot with a quart of cold water" and a little sea- 
 soning; let them simmer for eight to ten hours, 
 then strain, and flavour with a little Bovril, or 
 wine. ' This may be served warm as a soup, or 
 cold as a jelly. A little lemon-juice improves 
 the flavour. 
 
 MUTTON BOUDINS (Invalid Cookery). 
 
 Required : A quarter of a pound of lean meat 
 (shredded), two table-spoonfuls of fine bread- 
 crumbs, one table-spoonful of boiled rice, or 
 macaroni cut in rings, one egg, and a little stock 
 (a few spoonfuls will be sufficient). The ingre- 
 dients are best mixed in a mortar, the egg and 
 the stock being added to form a moist paste. 
 They are lighter if the white of the egg is beaten 
 and stirred in last. Three-fourths fill little 
 moulds (dariole or others), buttered lightly. 
 Cover with buttered paper ; and poach in a 
 shallow pan of simmering water until done (for 
 twenty minutes or more). Wipe the grease off; 
 and turn out on to a bed of vegetables, rice, 
 etc., or as the case demands. A very good 
 invalid dish. Sherry improves for some tastes. 
 
 MUTTON, BREAST OF, BOILED. 
 
 Take out the bones, gristle, and some of the' 
 fat; flatten the joint on the pasteboard, and 
 cover the surface thinly with a forcemeat com- 
 posed of bread-crumbs, minced savoury herbs, a 
 little chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and an egg, 
 to bind. The forcemeat should not be spread too 
 near the edge, and when rolled, the breast 
 should be tied securely, to keep the forcemeat in 
 its place. If gently boiled, and sent to table 
 hot, and smothered with good caper sauce, it 
 will be generally liked. Time, two hours to 
 boil. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. 
 
 MUTTON, BREAST OF, TO COLLAR. 
 
 Skin the breast, and free it entirely from 
 bone and gristle. When flat on the board, cover 
 it with beaten egg, and have reafly a forcemeat 
 composed of the following ingredients : — A large 
 cupful of bread-crumbs, some chopped parsley, 
 a blade of pounded mace, two cloves, the peel 
 of half a lemon, chopped as small as possible, a 
 couple of anchovies, and the yolks of three or 
 four hard-boiled eggs. Mix and pound in a 
 mortar, adding pepper and salt to taste. Cover 
 the breast with the forcemeat, roll it firmly, tie 
 with tape, and put it into a stewpan with boil- 
 ing water, and simmer gently until tender, or 
 bake, if preferred. To boil, two hours ; to bake. 
 
MUT 
 
 430 
 
 MUT 
 
 twenty minutes to the pound. Probable cost, 
 7d. to 8d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five 
 persona. 
 
 MUTTON, BREAST OF, WITH PEAS. 
 
 Cut about two pounds of the breast of mutton 
 into rather small square pieces. Put them into 
 a stewpan with about an ounce of butter, and 
 brown them nicely, then cover with weak broth 
 or water, and stew for an hour. Remove the 
 meat from the stewpan, and clear the gravy from 
 fat. Put the meat into a clean stewpan, add an 
 onion or shallot, sliced finely, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, some pepper and salt, and strain the 
 gravy over all. Stew for another hour, when 
 put in a quart of young peas, and in about 
 fifteen minutes serve. Macaroni may be put in 
 the place of peas. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. 
 
 MUTTON BROTH. 
 
 Lean meat is best for broth; from two to 
 three pounds of the scrag. , end of the neck is 
 suited to the purpose, and if for a plain broth, 
 not requiring much strength, allow a quart of 
 water to each pound of meat. Put quite cold 
 water on the meat, and set it over a slow fire to 
 heat gradually. Simmer gently, and remove the 
 scum. When no more scum is to be seen, and 
 the meat is suficiently done to be eaten, it may 
 be removed for the family dinner, and any 
 addition to the broth made. Pearl barley, rice, 
 or oatmeal, with a carrot, a turnip, an onion or 
 leek, may be . added, the vegetables being cut 
 neatly. Season to taste. Warm up the meat, 
 and serve in a separate dish, or with the broth. 
 Pearl barley should be boiled separately for a 
 few minutes, and then strained, and boiled 
 with the broth. Time to simmer meat, an hour 
 and a half. Sufficient for two quarts of broth. 
 
 MUTTON BROTH (Invalid Cookery). 
 
 Boil two ppunds of the scrag, end of a neck 
 of mutton in about three pints of cold water, 
 and if the patient can digest vegetables, it will 
 be much improved by the addition of a little 
 turnip, parsley, finely minced, and onion. Put 
 in the vegetables when the broth boils, and 
 simmer three hours, take off the scum as it 
 rises. Strain, and let it grow cold, then take 
 off the fat. If pearl barley be added, it should 
 be boiled as long as the meat, and before being 
 put with it should be boiled in water for ten 
 minutes, drained, and afterwards added to the 
 broth. "Veal may be boiled in the same manner ; 
 the knuckle is the part generally used for broth. 
 Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for a pint and a 
 half to two pints. 
 
 MUTTON BROTH, NOURISHING AND DELICATE. 
 
 Take three pounds of the knuckle part of the 
 leg of mutton„ separate the shankbone, that it 
 may lie fiat in the saucepan. Cover with cold 
 water, and mix in a table-spoonful of Scotch 
 barley, which should be kept stirred until the 
 water boils, then remove from the fire to sim- 
 mer, adding salt, and skimming the surface 
 while any scum rises.. Strain off the broth for 
 use, and serve the mutton with the barley round 
 it. Time, three hours and a half to simmer. 
 
 MUTTON BROTH, QUICKLY MADE. 
 
 Cut two thick chops from the neck, but re- 
 move the bones and all fat. Cut the meat into 
 
 dice, and put them into a stewpan. with a pint of 
 cold water; then scrape the hones,. break them, 
 and add them, with a very small onion, a sprig 
 of parsley and thyme, and some pepper and salt, 
 to the stewpan. Bring the water to the boil 
 quickly, skim well, draw back, and simmer 
 gently for twenty minutes, when the broth will 
 be ready. Take off every particle of fat; this 
 is much easier done when the broth is allowed 
 to cool. It should be re-warmed by setting the 
 basin in boiling water. Probable cost. Is. 
 per pound for the chops. 
 MUTTON BROTH, SCOTCH SUMMER. 
 
 Boil four pounds of lean mutton in four quarts 
 of water, stir into it ei^rht ounces of Scotch 
 barley. Keep it well mixed until the water 
 boils, and skim the surface carefully while sim- 
 mering as fast as the scum rises. Cut up a 
 couple of carrots, a turnip, and an onion; add 
 these, with a quart or more of green peas, a few 
 sprigs of parsley, and a dessert-spoonful of 
 pepper and salt, mixed... The vegetables should 
 not be allowed to boil a longer time than is 
 required to cook them. Scotch broth may be 
 made of beef or veal. Time, two hours and a 
 half altogether. Sufficient for three quarts. 
 
 MUTTON, CASSEROLE OF, PLAIN. 
 
 The remains of an underdone leg of mutton cut 
 into small neat slices, and seasoned appropri- 
 ately, may be boiled in a basin with a lining of 
 suet-crust, or in " plain casserole," which is in a 
 mould thickly lined with mashed potatoes. The 
 mould should be very well buttered, and then 
 filled with the meat, moistened with some thick 
 meat-gravy, and finally covered with more 
 mashed potatoes. Turn out on a dish, and have 
 ready some more gravy to serve with it. . Bake 
 for half an hour. 
 
 MUTTON CHOPS. 
 
 Take chops from the best end of the neck, saw 
 off about. four inches from the top and the chine- 
 bones. Cut away the skin and gristle from the 
 upper end of the bone, which will give the 
 cutlet a round, plump appearance. Sprinkle 
 each chop with salt and pepper, and dip them 
 separately into dissolved butter. Strew vfith 
 bread-crumbs, and broil over a. clear slow fire, 
 that the crumbs may not acquire too much 
 colour ; or, oil each chop slightly, and broil over 
 a brisk fire. A trimmed mutton cutlet of five 
 ounces in weight will require about six minutes 
 to cook. Time, with bi-ead-crumbs, seven or 
 eight minutes. 
 
 MUTTON CHOPS (a la Bretonne). 
 
 Trim six nice mutton chops, season with a 
 tea-spoonful of salt and one of pepper, and 
 pour a few drops of oil over each. Broil for 
 four minutes on each side. Arrange them on a 
 dish, and serve with half a pint of puree of 
 white beans (see Beans, Habicot, Puree op) 
 mingled with two table-spoonfuls of good hot 
 meat glaze. (See Glaze.) 
 
 JMUTTON CHOPS (a la Soyer). 
 
 First select weU-fed mutton, but not too fat, 
 and get the chops evenly cut ; if not, beat them 
 into shape with the chopper. Not more than 
 one-third of the chop should be fat. Put an 
 ounce of butter or lard into the Jrying-pan; 
 
MUT 
 
 431 
 
 MUT 
 
 ■when it is entirely melted .seize tlie ;cliop at the 
 bone end with a fork, and dip it for half a 
 minute into the fat, tlien turn on one side, 
 sprinkle with salt and pepper, and, if liked, 
 finely-chopped shallot or onion, ; and- savoury 
 herbs. In three minutes turn, and serve the 
 other side the same ; equalise the cooking by 
 frequent turning, but give the chop altogether 
 not more than ten minutes .if thick>-.but less if 
 a thin one. A piece of garlic, if the flavour be 
 approved, may be rubbed across the dish when 
 hot, or it may be rubbed lightly across the chop. 
 Serve with plain or maitre d'hotel butter. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 4d; per pound. Suf&cient, one 
 pound for two persons. 
 
 MUTTON CHOPS (en Casserole). 
 
 Melt two table-spopjifuls of butter, add three 
 slices of onion, and saute in it the chops cut 
 from a shoulder of mutton. Place in a casserole 
 a quarter of a cupful each of carrots, turnips, 
 celery, and onion, lay the -chops on top of the 
 vegetables and add one cupfuL of stock or hot 
 water. Cover and cook about one and a half 
 hours, season with salt and pepper, add three 
 potatoes cut in slices and parboiled, and more 
 stock if necessary. Cover and cook until tender. 
 Eemove cover to brown the chaps and potatoes;^ 
 Serve from the casserole. 
 
 MUTTON CHOPS, GRILLED. 
 
 Shred some shallot or onion, and mince some 
 savoury herbs ; put these into a stewpan with a 
 lump of butter. _ Have ready-triinmed chops 
 from the loin of muttosn, dip each one separately 
 into the dissolved butter^ and cover quickly with 
 finely-prepared, bread-crumbs, seasoned with 
 pepper and salt. Broil on one side for three 
 minutes, then turn on the other. The fire 
 should be slow and even, that the bread-crumbs 
 may not acquire too much Golour; by turning 
 them several times the. cooking will be equal- 
 ised. Serve hot, with a bit of plain butter on 
 the top of each chop. Probable cost. Is. per 
 pound. 
 
 MUTTON CHOPS, WITH VEGETABLES. 
 
 Where vegetables are to be had fresh from the 
 garden, and in plenty, the following inode of 
 cooking chops will be found economical, as well 
 as wholesome and agreeable to the palate. Fry 
 the chops, having first trimmed them into good 
 shape, in butter, until half done, seasoning them 
 with pepper and salt. Have ready by the time 
 the chops are fried any seasonable vegetables—' 
 asparagus tops, peas, celery, carrots, turnips — 
 all cut as nearly the same size as possible, and 
 stewed in a little good, white broth. Make a 
 gravy with the butter in the pan, after frying a 
 little shredded onion, thicken it with flour, and 
 add it and the chops to the stewpan with the 
 vegetables. Shake them ,well together over the 
 fire until they are quite done, • and serve wjth 
 the sauce over and about the chops. Time, 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost. Is. per pound. 
 Sufficient, two pounds for four persons. 
 
 MUTTON COLLOPS. 
 
 Shred two or three shallots, a sprig or two of 
 parsley, and a small bunch of savoury herbs. 
 Take a few thin slices from tlie'leg. or loin of 
 mutton, as underdone as popsible, and of equal 
 sizes, sprinkle them .with .the chopped, herbs. 
 
 salt,, pepper, ana a little pounded. mace; fry the 
 collops slightly in butter, about two ounces, add 
 a good cup of gravy, a piece of butter kneaded 
 with a dessert-spoonful of flour, some chopped 
 capers drained from their vinegar, or a fittle 
 lemon-juice. Simmer for a few minutes, and 
 serve quickly when done. Chopped gherkins 
 may be used instead of capers. Sufficient, one 
 pound and a half of meat for four persons. 
 
 MUTTON (cooked like Venison). ' 
 
 4. fillet or neck of mutton, if prepared by being 
 well hung (in cold weather, at least seven or 
 eight days), and then steeped for a day or two in 
 a mixture of vinegar and red wine, three or four 
 bay-leaves, and the same of shredded shallots, 
 will be found nearly equal to venison. Half an 
 ounce of black pepper and allspice, pounded, 
 should be well rubbed into the meat before 
 steeping. When to be cooked, it should be 
 washed in warm water, wiped dry, and enclosed 
 in a paste of flour and water, which should be 
 removed a quarter of an hour before serving. 
 Dredge lightly with flour, sprinkle with salt, 
 and baste until of a light brown colour. Send 
 good gravy to table in a tureen, seasoned only 
 with salt, and unmclted cutraut jelly, on a plate. 
 
 MUTTON CROQUETTES. 
 
 Eemove any,bone or gristle from the remains 
 of cold roast mutton, and chop the meat small ; 
 reason with salt and pepper. Boil and mash 
 some potatoes ; ,n\ix si^fficient flour and £|, beaten 
 egg with it to make a paste ; roll out and cut 
 ir\to rounds, put some meat on each, turn it over 
 and join the edges together. .Fry to a nice, 
 brown in hot fat. ' 
 
 MUTTON, CURRIED, GOOD. 
 
 Put four ounces of butter into a stewpan, and 
 pound six middle-sized onions in a mortar ; add 
 the onions to the butter with an ounce of curry- 
 powder, a tea-spobnfui of salt, a dessert-spoonful 
 of flour, and half .a pint of cream. Stir until 
 smooth. Fry two pounds of mutton, cut in neat 
 pieces, without bone. Let them be of a light 
 browri colour. Lay the meat in a clean stew- 
 pan, and pour the curry mixture over. Simmer 
 until the meat is done. Time, two hours to 
 simmer. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Suf- 
 ficient, ,two pounds for four or five persons., 
 
 MUTTON, CURRIED, PLAIN. 
 
 For a curry of cooked meat, cut the mutton 
 into thin slices, or into dice, according to the 
 quantity of meat to be curried. Put two ounces 
 or more of butter into a stewpan, and two good- 
 sized onions, chopped. Stir the onions in the 
 butter until of a pale brown, add an ounce of 
 curry-powder, and the same of flour, with a 
 little salt; mix and stir for five minutes, moisten 
 with, a cup of stock, and stew gently for a few 
 minutes longer. Put in the meat, and simmer 
 until done, but do_ not let it boil. Serve with 
 rice round the dish. 
 
 MUTTON OUTLETS (i la Maintenoft). 
 
 Put a heaped table-spoonful of finely-chopped 
 shallot, into a pan with an ounce of fresh butter, 
 and simmer them for five minutes. Add two 
 table-spoonfuls of minced mushrooms and the 
 same of chopped parsley, which should be iflrst 
 blanched and dried in a cloth ; fry these ^nd the 
 
MUT 
 
 432 
 
 MUT 
 
 shallot together for another five minutes, with- 
 out burning them. Season with pepper and 
 salt, and add some highly-flavoured meat-gravy. 
 Have ready-trimmed mutton cutlets of two 
 bones thick, the chinebone sawed off and one of 
 the long ones removed. Split the meat care- 
 fully and neatly in two, nearly down to the bone, 
 and insert some of the seasoning previously pre- 
 pared. Close the edges by folding the under 
 part of the cutlet over the upper, and broil on 
 each side for five minutes, or until the meat is 
 of a nice rich brown. Place the cutlets on a 
 dish, and surround them with the sauce; pour 
 the remainder over, and bake for about four 
 minutes in a hot oven. There are other recipes 
 for cutlets a la Maintenon, but this one may 
 certainly challenge comparison with any other, 
 and it has besides the advantage of greater sim- 
 plicity of preparation. Probable cost. Is. per 
 pound. Sufficient, a double cutlet for each 
 person. 
 
 MUTTON CUTLETS (^ la Minute). 
 
 The mutton for these cutlets should be cut 
 from the middle of the leg, in the same direction 
 as when carving for a dinner, but slice it rather 
 thinner, and season slightly with pepper. Fry 
 the meat quickly over a brisk fire, to make it 
 crisp, turning it often. Let the cutlets be kept 
 warm before the fire while the gravy is prepar- 
 ing. Have ready some mushrooms, chopped 
 with a shallot, a sprig or two of parsley aiid 
 thyme minced fine. Stew these in the butter for 
 a few minutes, and season with salt and more 
 pepper, if necessary. Thicken, skim, and serve 
 round the cutlets. Probable cost. Is. per pound. 
 
 MUTTON CUTLETS (a la Portugaise). 
 
 Cut and trim some neat cutlets from the best 
 end of the neck, the bone to be cut short and the 
 top scraped clean. Season with pepper and salt, 
 and strew over them chopped parsley and shal- 
 lot. Try them slightly, adding a couple of bay- 
 leaves and a small bit of garlic about the size of 
 a pea. Take the cutlets out, and wrap each one 
 in a buttered paper, covering the paper and 
 cutlet with forcemeat. Broil them on a grid- 
 iron over a slow even fire. Make a gravy in the 
 frying-pan, add a dessert-spoonful of vinegar, a 
 small tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce, with salt 
 and pejjper. Pour it round the cutlets, and 
 serve hot. Time, five minutes to fry ; eight 
 minutes to broil. Sufficient, two pounds for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 MUTTON CUTLETS (k la Provenyale). 
 
 Saw off the upper rib-bones from a, neck of 
 mutton, also the chinebone, and divide the meat 
 into neat cutlets, leaving only three inches of 
 bone to each of them. Trim off all superfluous 
 fat, season with pepper and salt, and fry lightly 
 in a stewpan with an. ounce of good fresh butter. 
 Make a seasoning as follows. Stew over a slow 
 fire, and in a closed stewpan, ten middle-sized 
 onions chopped fine, and a small bit of garlic. 
 Of the latter, take only enough to flavour, with- 
 out giving any colour to the butter. When 
 tender, add pepper, salt, and the juice of a 
 lemon, vvrith the yolks of four raw eggs. Stir 
 niitil the seasoning has become a thick paste; 
 then, with a knife, spread it equally and thickly 
 over the upper side of the cutlets, brush over 
 
 with beaten egg, and cover with grated Par- 
 mesan and fried bread-crumbs. Bake the cut- 
 lets with a little good gravy to keep them from 
 sticking to the pan. When done, serve them in 
 a circle round a dish, and fill the centre with 
 potatoes cut to an olive shape or in round balls, 
 and previously fried in butter. Pour a good 
 gravy round the dish. Time, ten minutes to bake. 
 Sufficient, two pounds for four or five persons. 
 
 MUTTON CUTLETS (4 la Royale). 
 
 Take three pounds of middle neck of mutton, 
 and divide it into cutlets. Place them in a 
 stewpan with cold water, and a few root vege- 
 tables (carrot, turnip, and onion) for flavouring. 
 Take out when done, dust with white pepper, 
 and lay on a hot plate till needed. Peel eight 
 onions and place them in half a pint of the 
 liquor, let them simmer gently till done, then 
 pass through a sieve. Mix this pulp with treble 
 the quantity of hot freshly-boiled mashed pota- 
 toes, add a small grating of nutmeg, a dust of 
 white pepper, a little salt, a piece of butter the 
 size of a walnut, and a table-spoonful of cream, 
 and beat up with a fork. Egg and bread-crumb 
 the cutlets, and fry them. Pile the potato pulp 
 in the centre of a dish, arrange the cutlets neatly 
 round, and serve. 
 
 MUTTON CUTLETS (k la Soubise). • 
 
 Cutlets may be taken from the leg if lean 
 outlets are preferred, but the neck or loin may 
 be advantageously used, when the chops should 
 be cut two bones thick, but removing one of 
 them and also the chinebone. About four inches 
 is a good length for the cutlet. If cut from the 
 leg, lard with bacon and tongue. {See Laed, To.), 
 Stew the cutlets in good well-seasoned veal 07.' 
 chicken stock sufficient to cover them, and when 
 done press them between two dishes to flatten, 
 then drain them. In the meantime prepare the 
 Soubise sauce. First peel and blanch eight 
 onions, slice them into a stewpan with more of 
 the stock, and simmer them gently, without 
 allowing them to get colour, until they are 
 nearly dissolved, then add a similar quantity of 
 bechamel sauce, and strain through a fine hair- 
 sieve. Put the cutlets into this puree to warm 
 up, and serve with croustades or more onions, 
 prepared as before, but not crushed. The cut- 
 lets may also be served with French beans, or 
 any vegetable without a marked flavour of its 
 own. Time, until tender — about three-quarters 
 of an hour. Probable cost, lOd. to Is. per 
 pound. Sufficient, two cutlets for each person. 
 
 MUTTON CUTLETS AND MASHED POTATOES. 
 
 Proceed as directed for mutton cutlets with 
 tomato puree {see Mutton Cutlets vtith 
 Tomato Pubee), or the cutlets may be broiled. 
 Have ready boiled two pounds of mealy pota- 
 toes. Beat them to a smooth paste with two 
 ounces of butter, a wine-glassful of milk, and 
 pepper and salt to taste. Place them in the 
 centre of the dish with the cutlets, meat-side 
 downwards, round the potatoes. Time, cutlets, 
 seven or eight minutes. Probable cost, with 
 two pounds of mutton, 2s. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. 
 
 MUTTON CUTLETS AND PUREE OF POTATOES. 
 
 Boil or steam two pounds of mealy potatoes, 
 mash them with a wooden spoon, or press them 
 
MUT 
 
 433 
 
 MUT 
 
 through a sieve, but they must be smooth. Put 
 them into a stewpan with two or three ounces of 
 butter, two or three table-spoonfuls of cream or 
 broth, pepper and salt. Make them hot, and 
 pile them in the centre of a hot dish. The 
 cutlets may be bread-crumbed and fried, cr, if 
 preferred, broiled and served round the purge. 
 Time, an hour to prepare. Sufficient for three 
 or four persons. 
 
 MUTTON CUTLETS (au Champignon). 
 
 Take about four pounds of neck of mutton, 
 and divide it into cutlets. Trim these neatly, 
 dip them in egg and then in a mixture of 
 minced mushrooms, parsley, and bread-crumbs. 
 Season to taste, and fry for five or six minutes in 
 boiling fat. Serve in a border of mashed pota- 
 toes or peas. 
 MUTTON CUTLETS (au Naturel). 
 
 These cutlets may be taken either from the 
 leg or from the ribs. If from the ribs, cut off 
 all superfluous fat, and when well trimmed dip 
 each one into clarified butter, cover with bread- 
 crumbs seasoned with pepper and salt, and 
 broil just long enough to heat them through; 
 then dip them again into the butter, to be 
 again bread-crumbed, and the cooking com- 
 pleted. Lay them before the fire on white 
 paper, and press slightly with another paper 
 over them. Serve with a sauce made as follows. 
 Stew in half a pint of brown gravy a handful of 
 button mushrooms, chopped, a sprig of parsley, 
 half a bay-leaf, and the same of shallot, 
 shredded finely; thicken with butter rolled in 
 flour; take out the bay-leaf, and add more salt 
 and pepper if required. Probable cost. Is. per 
 pound. Sufficient, two pounds for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 MUTTON CUTLETS, BRAISED. 
 
 Cut and trim six or eight cutlets. Take an 
 "onion and a carrot, and cut them into small 
 pieces. Cut two ounces of ham into dice and 
 fry them in a little butter for three or four min- 
 utes in a stewpan. Then lay in the cutlets 
 with the vegetables, pepper and salt to taste, 
 a sprig of parsley and thyme, and six pepper- 
 corns. . Pour over them a quart of good stock, 
 and stew all gently for an hour ; then pour off 
 half a pint of the stock into a fresh saucepan. 
 Mix a tea-spoonful of arrowroot smoothly with 
 a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup ; stir this 
 into the half piiit of stock when at boiling 
 point, and simmer until nicely thickened. Add 
 a tea^spoonful of red currant jelly, and stir 
 till it is melted. Take out the cutlets, arrange 
 them on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and 
 serve. 
 
 MUTTON CUTLETS, ITALIAN. 
 
 Trim cutlets from the neck of mutton into 
 good shape; if not even, beat them to make 
 them so. Cut off all superfluous fat. Lay 
 them for a few minutes in a marinade of salad- 
 oil and minced savoury herbs, or, if preferred, 
 dip them in clarified butter, and again into 
 beaten eggs. Cover them with a seasoning made 
 as follows. Chop extremely fine some button 
 mushrooms, or if these cannot be procured use 
 mushroom powder. Prepare bread-crumbs, 
 parsley, and savoury herbs (of each a table- 
 spoonful), and reduce them to powder; shred a 
 2o 
 
 shallot, and mince half n tea-spoonful of lemon- 
 peel. Put these ingredients with a little 
 pounded mace into a basin, and when mixed 
 use for the cutlets, and fry a nice light colour 
 in butter. Make a good gravy in the pan by 
 browning a little more butter with a dessert- 
 spoonful or more of flour, moisten with a large 
 cupful of veal stock, adding any sauce (Harvey, 
 Worcester, mushroom ketchup, etc), and a des- 
 sert-spoonful of tarragon vinegar.- When the 
 sauce has boiled and is thick enough, dish the 
 cutlets in a circle (they should have been kept 
 warm), and pour it round them. Time, about 
 ten minutes. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient, 
 three pounds for six persons. 
 
 MUTTON CUTLETS, MARINADED. 
 
 Make a marinade of a quarter of a pint of 
 salad oil, a. table-spoonful of French vinegar, a 
 small onion, twelve peppercorns, half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and the same of mixed herbs, 
 a dessert-spoonful of minced parsley, and the 
 grated rind of half a lemon. Cut and trim 
 seven or eight cutlets, lay them in the marin- 
 ade, and leave them there two or three hours, 
 then take them_ up and drain them. Brush 
 each cutlet over with beaten egg, and cover it 
 with bread-crumbs. Arrange the cutlets in a 
 wire frying basket, plunge this into a saucepan 
 of boiling fat, and fry to a golden brown. Drain 
 on kitchen paper, put a frill round each bone, 
 arrange on a hot dish, and serve at once. Prob- 
 able cost, 3s. 
 
 MUTTON CUTLETS, REFORM CLUB. 
 
 Trim four or five well-chosen thick cutlets, 
 sprinkle them with salt and pepper, brush them 
 with egg, and dip them into a mixture of 
 pounded or finely-minced ham and bread- 
 crumbs, in equal quantities. Cover them well 
 with these, and fry m hot oil in a saute-pan for 
 eight or ten minutes. Take care not to over- 
 dress them, and turn frequently while cooking 
 to keep their gravy from flowing. Serve. round 
 mashed potatoes with the thick end of the 
 cutlet downwards, and pour over them reform 
 sauce, made in the following manner. Put to- 
 gether two onions, two sprigs of parsley, two of 
 thyme, two bay-leaves, two ounces of pounded 
 lean ham, half a clove of garlic, half a blade of 
 mace, two spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, one of 
 chilli vinegar, and a pint of brown sauce. Boil 
 up, skim well while simmering for ten minutes, 
 and again boil to reduce to the thickness of 
 cream, when add a table-spoonful of red currant 
 jelly and one of finely-chopped mushrooms ; stir 
 until the jelly is quite dissolved and the flavour 
 of mushrooms is acquired, then strain through 
 a flne hair-sieve. This is Soyer's celebrated 
 sauce piquant. When wanted for use make the 
 sauce hot, and add, without boiling any more, 
 the white of hard-boiled eggs cut into strips, 
 four mushrooms without the brown fur and 
 previously blanched, a gherkin or two, a pinch 
 of cayenne, and half au ounce of cooked ham, 
 with salt to taste. Cut all into strips of half an 
 inch, like the eggs. 
 
 MUTTON CUTLETS, WITH CUCUMBER. 
 
 Take the cutlets from a neck of mutton, and 
 trim them nicely. Chop some parsley and shal- 
 lot very flne, and put them into a little melted 
 
MUT 
 
 434 
 
 MUT 
 
 butter ; dip the cutlets in this, and then in 
 bread-crumbs. Put them in the frying-pan, 
 and fry to a fine light brown. Prepare two 
 cucumbers by dividing them into quarters and 
 removing all seeds. Cut them into oval shapes 
 about an inch long, boil them in vinegar and 
 water (in equal proportions) till tender. Make 
 a sauce with the trimmings of the cutlets, and 
 some minced shallot and herbs ; put the cucum- 
 bers into the sauce, and make them very hot. 
 Serve with the cucumbers in the centre of the 
 dish, the cutlets arranged round, and the sauce 
 poured over. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. 
 
 MUTTON CUTLETS, WITH TOMATO PUREE. 
 
 Trim cutlets from well-hung mutton, beat 
 them into shape after removing the chinebone, 
 dip them into dissolved butter, brush them 
 with egg, and cover with bread-crumbs. Fry 
 in boiling fat, turning them frequently during 
 the frying. Put them on blotting-paper before 
 the fire to drain. Have ready a puree of fresh 
 tomatoes, made as follows. Pick a pound of 
 ripe tomatoes, break them open, and put them 
 without their seeds into a stewpan with an 
 onion or a couple of shallots, sweet herbs and 
 spice if liked, salt, and pepper ; stir over a slow 
 file until the tomatoes can be pulped through a 
 hair-sieve; return the pulp to the stewpan to 
 simmer; add an ounce of butter well worked 
 together with a little flour, and stir in two 
 ounces of meat-glaze. Arrange the cutlets a 
 little overlapping each other in a circle, and fill 
 the centre with the puree. Serve hot. Time, 
 ten minutes to dress cutlets. Probable cost, 
 lOd. per pound. Sufficient, nine or ten cutlets 
 for a dish. 
 
 MUTTON, DEVILLED. 
 
 Take three-quarters of a pound of coia cooked 
 mutton, rather underdone, cut it into neat 
 slices, spread them on both sides with a little 
 made mustard, and sprinkle them with a season- 
 ing of white pepper and salt, and a little cay- 
 enne. Put them on a gridiron, and broil over 
 a clear fire for three or four minutes, then turn 
 and broil on the other side. Put them on a 
 very hot dish ; heat a quarter of a pint of mush- 
 room ketchup, pour it round the meat, and serve. 
 
 MUTTON DORMERS. 
 
 Boil a quarter of a pound of' rice as if ior 
 curry; chop a good half-pound of underdone 
 mutton, and three ounces of good fresh beef 
 suet; mix these with the rice, and chop alto- 
 gether. Shred finely half a shallot, add it to 
 the other ingredients with a good seasoning of 
 pepper and salt, and make the whole into 
 sausages. Roll these separately into a dish 
 of beaten egg, cover with fine bread-crumbs, 
 and fry in hot lard or dripping until of 
 a nice brown colour. Send the dormers to 
 table with gravy round them, and some also in 
 a boat. Time, about twelve minutes to fry. 
 Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of meat. 
 
 MUTTON ESCALOPES, OR COLLOPS, WITH 
 FINE HERBS. 
 
 Chop some mushrooms, parsley, and a shallot, 
 and get small thin slices (about two inches 
 square) from the chump end of a loin of mutton. 
 Pry these brown on both sides in a stewpan with 
 an ounce of dissolved butter; the fire should be 
 
 brisk, and the collops turned several times in 
 the butter. When done, take them out, and 
 keep them warm before the fire. Put in the pan 
 the mushrooms, parsley, -and shallot, half an 
 ounce more of butter, and stew for five minutes ; 
 then add a table-spoonful of flour, a spoonful of 
 ketchup, a quarter of a pint of stock, and the 
 juice of half a lemon. Stir tiU thick. Return 
 the collops; make them hot, but do not boil; 
 place them high in the centre of the dish ; pour 
 the sauce over, and serve with toasted sippets or 
 potato-balls. Time, fifteen minutes altogether. 
 Probable cost, lOd. per pound. 
 MUTTON, FILLET OF, BRAISED. 
 
 Cut the fillet from a well-hung leg of mutton 
 by taking off a few inches from the loin end, 
 and a good knuckle, which will do for boiling, 
 from the other end. Take out the bone, and 
 fill the hollow with forcemeat, if Uked, or put 
 the fillet, well sprinkled with pepper and salt, 
 into a braising-pan as it is, but first lay over 
 the bottom slices of bacon, and on these a 
 couple of carrots and two large onions, each 
 stuck with four cloves, a small bunch of parsley 
 and thyme, a few peppercorns, and half a pint of 
 gravy or stock. Put more bacon on the top of the 
 fillet, place the lid on the pan, and braise for 
 three or four hours. Strain the gravy, and flavour 
 it to taste; reduce it by rapid boiling. Have 
 ready some French beans boiled and drained ; 
 put the beans into a stewpan with the gravy, and 
 when liot serve them and the meat, which should 
 be glazed, on the same dish. The chump end of 
 a loin may be roasted before the fire, enveloped 
 in well-buttered paper, then glazed, and served 
 with beans in precisely the same way. The 
 meat should be roasted slowly without getting 
 any brown colour. Time, about two hours to 
 roast the chump. Probable cost. Is. per pound. 
 
 MUTTON, FILLET OF, WITH TOMATOES. 
 
 Cut some slices from a cold leg of mutton, 
 season with -pepper and salt, broil over a clear 
 fire.. Make some tomato sauce, pour it over 
 the meat, and serve very hot. 
 
 MUTTON GIGOT (i la Gascon). 
 
 Choose a tender well-hung bit of mutton. 
 Blanch two or three cloves of garlic in several 
 waters slightly salted, and remove the heads, 
 tails, and bones of six anchovies. Lard the 
 meat with the garlic and anchoviesj roast the 
 usual time, and serve with garlic sauce made as 
 follows. Divide a dozen cloves of garlic, and 
 take off their skins. Put them into slightly- 
 salted boiling water, and, to make mild garlic 
 sauce, change the water every five or six min- 
 utes until the garlic has lost its peculiar flavour 
 and smell. Serve it like onion sauce, or drain 
 and serve it in the dish with the meat. Time, 
 twenty to twenty-five minutes to boil. Suf- 
 ficient for one pint of sauce. 
 
 MUTTON HACHIS (k la Portugaise). 
 
 Cut underdone slices from a cold roast leg, 
 and again divide them into pieces about the 
 size of a florin. Brown slightly in butter a 
 little lean ham, a sliced carrot, and three shal- 
 lots shredded finely, a bit of garlic, some sprigs- 
 of parsley, and a sprig of thyme, two cloves,, 
 and a blade of powdered mace. Moisten with 
 two glassfuls of Madeira and a cup of good 
 
MUT 
 
 435 
 
 MUT 
 
 gravy or stock, and thicken the sauce with roux 
 (a French preparation of butter and flour, 
 similar to the English thickening of kneaded 
 butter with flour); then boil, skim, and strain. 
 Return the saaice to the stewpan, put in the 
 meat, and make it hot, but it should not boil. 
 Walnut or mushroom ketchup, or the liquor 
 from onion pickle, are all allowable with hashed 
 mutton. Time, ten minutes. Probable cost, 
 6d., exclusive of meat and wine. 
 
 MUTTON HAGGIS. 
 
 Take the half of a sheep's liver with its heart 
 and tongue, and about one pound of fat bacon. 
 Mince all well together, and grate in two ounces 
 of bread-crumbs and the rind of a lemon. Add 
 two anchovies chopped, and mix the whole of 
 the ingredients with a wine-glassful of sherry, 
 two beaten eggs, and season to taste with 
 pepper and salt. Press the haggis tightly into 
 a mould well buttered, and boil for two hours. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 4d., exclusive of wine. 
 
 MUTTON HAM. 
 
 Choose a short, thick, fresh leg of mutton, 
 weighing twelve or fourteen pounds, and cut 
 it into the form of a ham. Pound in a mortar 
 half a pound of bay salt, one ounce of saltpetre, 
 and half a pound of coarse brown sugar. Make 
 the mixture hot in a stewpan, then rub it 
 thoroughly into the meat. Turn the ham every 
 morning for four days, and rub the pickle well 
 into it. On the fifth day add two ounces more 
 of common salt. Bub and turn it in the brine 
 for twelve days more, then drain, and wipe dry ; 
 rub it with dry salt, and hang it up in wood- 
 smoke. No sort of meat is more improved by 
 smoking with aromatic woods than mutton. 
 When ouce dried it will keep for six months. 
 Mutton hams may be roasted or boiled ; but in 
 either case they should be soaked, unless quite 
 freshly done, when they will only require wash- 
 ing. As a breakfast-dish, with eggs, mutton 
 ham is commonly used in the north of England 
 and in Scotland : it is cut in slices as re- 
 quired, and broiled lightly. Time to smoke, 
 one week. 
 
 MUTTON HAM, SMOKED. 
 
 (See Ham, Mtjtton, Smoked.) 
 
 MUTTON, HARICOT. 
 
 Take about three pounds of best end of 
 neck of mutton, trim off some of the fat, and 
 cut the meat into rather thin chops; fry them 
 in a little fat to a pale brown. Cut a large 
 carrot and turnip into dice and an onion into 
 slices, and fry them in the same fat, but do not 
 let them brown. Lay the mutton at the bottom 
 of a stewpan, then the vegetables, and pour 
 over them just suificient boiling stock to cover 
 the whole. Let it boil up once, skim well, and 
 simmer for an hour ; add a little ketchup, pep- 
 per and salt to taste, and serve. (See also 
 Haeioot Mutton.) 
 
 MUTTON, HASHED (k I'lndienne). 
 
 Cut some slices from a cold roast leg or 
 shoulder of mutton, free them from skin, etc., 
 and reserve on a plate ; chop a large onion 
 finely, and fry it in clarified butter with a tea- 
 spoonful of minced parsley, until it is of a light 
 brown hue: add a large dessert-spoonful of 
 
 " Empress " curry-paste, half a pint of either 
 stock or gravy, and a dessert-spoonful of Luck- 
 now chutney; make very hot, then thicken with 
 a little flour and butter kneaded together, add 
 the sliced mutton, make hot again, and serve 
 with a border of either well-boiled rice or 
 mashed potato. Curry-powder may be used 
 instead of the paste, if desired, but the paste 
 gives the best results. 
 
 MUTTON, HAUNCH OF, ROAST. 
 
 Unless this joint ha,s been well hung it will 
 be tough and insipid. ' ^ haunch of good South- 
 down mutton in fine, clear, frosty weather may 
 be kept a month, but in damp weather it will 
 require much attention on the part of the cook 
 to keep it from getting tainted in half the time. 
 The great point -is to keep it dry, by dusting it 
 first with fiour, which should be rubbed off 
 several times with a dry cloth, and again re- 
 newed. When to be cooked, skin the loin, 
 wash, and wipe dry; then cover with white 
 paper, or make a common paste of flour and 
 water, and envelop the joint. Put it on the 
 spit, or hang before a good, even, vigorous fire 
 for the first half hour, basting it constantly 
 with good meat-dripping. When within half 
 an hour of being done, take off the paper, and 
 brown slightly. Dredge the haunch with flour, 
 and baste copiously with butter, but first pour 
 the dripping from the pan; sprinkle a little 
 salt over it, and send it to table finely frothed. 
 Make a gravy with the dripping in the pan and 
 a little boiling broth drawn from the trimmings, 
 add salt and pepper, and put in a sauceboat. 
 Serve currant jelly or currant-jelly sauce. Time, 
 from ten to fifteen minutes per pound; well 
 done, eighteen minutes. Probable cost. Is. per 
 pound. Sufficient for ten or more persons. 
 
 MUTTON HOTCH-POTCH. 
 
 Cut up three or four well-washed lettuces, 
 and slice half a dozen young onions, browning 
 them slightly in two ounces of butter ; add to 
 the onions a pound of underdone mutton 
 minced, half a cupful of mutton broth from 
 the boiling of the bones, and the cut-up lettuces. 
 Stew all these ingredients together for twenty- 
 five minutes. Stir this hotch-potch to keep it 
 from burning, and have ready boiled a pint of 
 peas ; mix the peas with the mutton, and stir 
 for a minute or two to make all hot. Under- 
 done beef may. be used if more convenient, 
 and a few mushrooms, to be easily had in 
 the country, may be chopped and fried with 
 the onion. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of 
 meat. 
 
 MUTTON, KAB06BED. 
 
 This favourite Oriental dish can oe prepared 
 with our English mutton in a manner far 
 superior to any Kabob at Turkish or Egyptian 
 tables. Take a loin of mutton, joint it well at 
 every bone, cut off all superfluous fat, particu- 
 larly of the kidney, and remove the skin; pre- 
 pare a well-proportioned and large seasoning of 
 the following ingredients : — Some bread-crumbs, 
 sweet herbs, nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Brush 
 the mutton chops over with yolk of egg, and 
 sprinkle the above mixture thickly over them; 
 then tie the chops together in their original 
 order, run a slender spit through them, and 
 
MUT 
 
 436 
 
 MUT 
 
 roast before a quick fire, basting them well with 
 butter and the drippings from the meat, and 
 throwing more of the seasoning on chem from 
 time to time. Serve with the gravy from the 
 meat, and have ready besides a boat of gravy, 
 to which has been added two table-spoonfuls of 
 ketchup and a thickening of flour; let this 
 gravy boil ; then skim and mix it with that in 
 the dish. Remember that all dishes of mutton 
 should be served as hot as possible. Time, a 
 quarter of an hour to a pound. Probable cost, 
 lOJd. per pound. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 MUTTON KIDNEYS (k la Maftre d'HStel). 
 
 Broil three or four sheep's kidneys (see 
 Mutton Kidneys, Beoiled), lay them with the 
 rounded side downwards, and put about one 
 ounce of maitre d'hotel butter, prepared as 
 follows, upon each one. Put four ounces of 
 fresh butter into an earthenware basin, add a 
 little salt and cayenne, a table-spoonful of 
 fi.nely-minced parsley, and a dessert-spoonful of 
 strained lemon-juice; work these ingredients 
 well together with the point of a knife, in a 
 cool place. When thoroughly mixed, divide 
 the butter into equal parts, put a piece upon 
 each kidney, and serve. Time, about six min- 
 utes to broil the kidneys. Probable cost, 
 4d. each. (See also Butter, a la Maitre 
 
 Jj'HdTBL.) 
 
 MUTTON KIDNEYS, BREAD-CRUMBED. 
 
 Take three or four mutton kidneys, cut them 
 open from the rounded part without separat- 
 ing them ; take off the thin skin, and pass a 
 small skewer through the points and over the 
 back to keep them flat. Dissolve an ounce of 
 "butter in a frying-pan, dip each of the kidneys in 
 this, and afterwards strew some finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs over them. Broil them over a clear 
 fire for six minutes, three minutes each side, 
 and serve them neatly on a hot dish. Probable 
 cost, 4d. each. Sufficient for two or three 
 persons. 
 
 MUTTON KIDNEYS, BROILED. 
 
 Skin the kidneys, and open them lengthwise 
 with a knife until the fat or root is reached, 
 then keep them open with a skewer; season 
 with pepper, and broil first on the cut side (this 
 will best preserve the gravy from wasting into 
 the fire when the other side is turned to it). 
 Have ready a round of buttered toast, draw 
 out the skewers and lay the kidneys on it, with 
 a piece of butter, cayenne, and salt on each. 
 Serve hot, or spread the following mixture over 
 the toast. Knead together an ounce of butter, 
 a tea-spoonful of mustard, and cayenne to taste ; 
 moisten with a tea-spoonful of Harvey sauce. 
 Serve hot. Time, six or eight minutes to broil. 
 Probable cost, 4d. each. Allow one for each 
 person. 
 
 MUTTON KIDNEYS, BROILED (another way.) 
 
 Take three or four sheep's kidneys, cut them 
 open lengthwise from the round part without 
 dividing them ; put a small skewer through the 
 ends and over the back so as to keep them 
 flat. Sprinkle salt and pepper over them, and 
 slightly oil them; then broil them over a clear 
 fire for six minutes, three minutes each side ; 
 put them on a hot dish with the rounded side 
 
 downwards. Probable cost, 4d. each. Suf- 
 ficient for three or four persons. 
 
 MUTTON KIDNEYS, DEVILLED. 
 
 (See Kidneys, Devillbd.) 
 
 MUTTON KIDNEYS, FRIED. 
 
 Remove the outer skin from half a dozen 
 sheep's kidneys, cut them in halves, and season 
 them rather highly with salt and cayenne. Fry 
 them in hot butter oyer a brisk fire ; when 
 nicely browned upon both sides, serve them im- 
 mediately on a hot dish. A dozen pieces of the 
 crumb of bread of the same size and shape may 
 be fried in butter for two or three minutes, and 
 each half kidney may be served upon one of 
 these. When this is, done, a cupful of good 
 brown gravy should be put into the dish with 
 the kidneys. Time, eight minutes to fry the 
 kidneys. Probable cost, 4d. each. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. 
 
 MUTTON KIDNEYS, FRIED (another way). 
 
 Proceed as before directed for broiling, but 
 put the kidneys into a frying-pan with an ounce 
 of butter, and a little pepper sprinkled over 
 them. When done on one side, turn for an 
 equal time on the other. Remove to a hot dish, 
 add pepper, cayenne, salt, and a little sauce 
 (Harvey's or any other), and pour the gravy 
 from the pan over them. Serve hot on toast or 
 otherwise. Time, seven or eight minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, 3d. each. Sufficient, allow one to 
 each person. 
 
 MUTTON KIDNEYS, STEWED {k la Fran^aise). 
 
 Remove the skins from half a dozen fine 
 mutton kidneys, and cut them lengthwise into 
 slices a quarter of an inch in thickness. Sea- 
 son each piece rather highly with salt and 
 cayenne, and dip it into some finely-powdered 
 sweet herbs, namely, parsley and thyme — two- 
 thirds of the former and one of the latter ; three 
 or four finely-minced shallots may be added, if 
 liked. Melt a good-sized piece of butter in the 
 frying-pan, and put in the kidneys. Let them 
 brown on both sides. When nearly cooked, 
 dredge a, little flour quickly over them, add a 
 quarter of a pint of boiling stock or water, a 
 table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and the 
 strained juice of half a lemon. When the 
 gravy is just upon the point of boiling, lift out 
 the kidneys, put them on a hot dish, add two 
 table-spoonfuls of either port or claret to the 
 sauce, let it boil for one minute, then pour it 
 over the meat. Garnish with fried sippets. 
 Time, six minutes to fry the kidneys. Probable 
 cost of kidneys, 3d. each. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. 
 
 MUTTON KIDNEYS, STEWED, WITH WINE. 
 
 Slice two veal or four sheep's kidneys, and 
 fry them in a little butter until nicely browned 
 on both sides. Drain them from the butter, 
 put them into a clean saucepan, and pour over 
 them a quarter of a pint of champagne, sherry, 
 or any light wine. Add a little salt and cay- 
 enne, a table-spoonful of ketchup, and a table- 
 spoonful of good stock, and simmer very gently 
 until tender. Serve as hot as possible. The 
 relative proportions of wine and gravy may be 
 reversed in this recipe, if preferred. The kid- 
 neys are very good indeed if stewed in gravy 
 
MUT 
 
 437 
 
 MUT 
 
 flavoured with wine. Time, about a quarter of 
 an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, 
 Is. Suflcient for two or three persons. 
 
 MUTTON, LEG OF, BOILED. 
 
 For boiling, this joint should not ha?jef so 
 long as for roasting. Two or three days will be 
 enough if the colour is considered of import- 
 ance. This and careful skimming will prevent 
 the necessity for a floured cloth, which some 
 inexperienced cooks resort to. Cut off the 
 shankbone, and, if necessary, wipe the joint with 
 a damp cloth. Put it into a large oval stewpan 
 with as much boiling water as will cover it. 
 When restored to its boiling state, skim the 
 surface clean, and draw the stewpan to the side 
 of the fire to allow the contents to simmer until 
 done. Allow for a leg of mutton of nine or 
 ten pounds' weight, two and a half hours from 
 the time it boils. Boil very young turnips for 
 a garnish; these will take twenty minutes, but 
 allow an hour for older ones, which are to be 
 mashed. Place the turnips, which should be 
 of equal size, round the dish, and send the 
 mashed ones to table separately. Melted but- 
 ter, with capers added, should accompany the 
 dish. The liquor from the boiling may be con- 
 verted into good soup at a trifling expense. 
 Time, about twenty minutes to each pound. 
 Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient for 
 nine or ten persons. 
 
 MUTTON, LEG OF, BONED AND STUFFED. 
 
 Having removed the bone from a leg of mut- 
 ton (a small one of five or six pounds"), fill the 
 space from which it was taken with a forcemeat 
 made according to the following instructions. 
 Shred finely four ounces of suet and two of ham ; 
 mix these with six ounces of bread-crumbs, and 
 flavour with a tea-spoonful of minced thyme, 
 marjoram, and basil, the same of parsley, and a 
 couple of shallots; add a little nutmeg, pepper, 
 and salt. Moisten with a couple of eggs, weU 
 beaten flrst, and work the whole together into a 
 firm smooth paste. Keep the forcemeat from 
 falling out into the dripping-pan during the pro- 
 cess of cooking by sewing up the opening, and 
 roast before a brisk fire ; give the mutton twenty 
 minutes to the pound. Or if a more savoury 
 dish be preferred, pound the solid parts of a 
 couple of good red herrings to a paste. Season 
 highly with pepper, and by detaching the skin 
 from the thickest part of the joint, force the 
 paste under and secure well. Those persons 
 who have eaten a leg of mutton thus prepared 
 pronounce it excellent. The mutton thus 
 stuffed need not be boned. Trim off the fat 
 from the joint before putting it to the fire. 
 Baste with good dripping. For sauce, add to 
 the gravy of the meat a small glassful of sherry, 
 an anchovy pounded, and pepper and salt to 
 taste; boil for a few minutes; thicken with 
 butter rolled in flour, and serve in a tureen with 
 half the juice of a lemon squeezed into it. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient for six or 
 seven persons. 
 
 MUTTON, LEG OP, BRAISED. 
 
 This joint might be introduced to our readers 
 under a variety of names; such as Leg of 
 Mutton a la Napolitaine, a la ProveUQale, a la 
 Bretonne, a la Soubise, and a separate recipe 
 
 given for each, but as it is generally called 
 after some sauce or garnish, we give a recipe 
 for the braising alone : ^Procure a small leg of 
 mutton, cut off the knuckle end, and trim away 
 unnecessary fat. Lard it with narrow strips of 
 bacon which have been well seasoned with 
 pepper. Line a braising-pan or stewpan with 
 slices of bacon, and lay in the mutton, with 
 more slices of bacon on the top. Add four car- 
 rots, two turnips, two middle-sized onions, each 
 stuck with two cloves, a stick of celery, two 
 blades of mace, and a few peppercorns, with 
 enough weak stock to cover all. Stew gently for 
 three hours, then reduce the stock by rapid 
 boiling, and brOwn the meat in the oven, using a 
 little of the stock with what flows from the meat 
 to baste, and when glazed of a light colour serve 
 with the sauce poured over it. A kg of mutton 
 braised as above may be garnished with glazed 
 carrots and onions, or a "la Napolitaine, with 
 boiled macaroni in the dish, and Neapolitan 
 sauce over and around the macaroni; or a la 
 Proyen9ale, with the sauce of the same name, 
 and a garnish of mushrooms glazed, etc. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient for six or 
 seven persons. 
 
 MUTTON, LEG OF, BRAISED (another way). 
 
 Small lean mutton is particularly adapted to 
 this mode of cooking. It may be larded and 
 braised, or done without the larding. Put it 
 into a braising-pan with slices of bacon over 
 and under, so that the bottom of the pan shall 
 be well lined. Between the mutton and bacon 
 strew cut carrots, onions, sweet herbs, parsley, 
 and a bay-leaf, also a bit of garlic, if liked, sad 
 pepper and salt. Moisten with half a pint or 
 more of good meat gravy or broth, and allow a 
 leg of six or seven pounds to stew nearly four 
 hours. If stewed very gently the liquor will 
 not have lost much in quantity. When the 
 meat is done enough, strain, reduce the gravy 
 by quick boiling, and serve in a tureen. Glaze 
 the mutton, and send it to table garnished with 
 onions, which should also be glazed, and white 
 haricot beans boiled in good veal broth under 
 the joint. A dozen peppercorns and four cloves, 
 with a stick of celery, may be added to the 
 braising-pan if a higher flavour is liked. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient for six or 
 seven persons. 
 
 MUTTON, LEG OF, OYSTERS WITH. 
 
 (See Oysters vtith Leo ot Mutton.) 
 
 MUTTON, LEG OF, TO MARINADE. 
 
 Get the' skin taken off the leg, and with three 
 or four la^ge juicy onions, which should be 
 halved, rub the mutton until it is well impreg- 
 nated with their juice. Afterwards lay it into 
 a marinade of the following ingredients. Four 
 cloves of garlic, a dozen or more of bruised pep- 
 percorns, and four cloves, a bunch of herbs, and 
 one of parsley, with a dessert-spoonful of salt, 
 infused in equal quantities of vinegar and 
 water (a quart in all). The dish should be 
 from five to six inches in depth, that the marin- 
 ade may surround the meat Well. Keep it in 
 this twenty-four hours, then again rub it with 
 four more fresh onions, and return it, this time 
 on the other side, to the marinade for thfe same 
 space of time. Hang to drain all the next day. 
 
MUT 
 
 438 
 
 MUT 
 
 then wipe dry, and roast the leg in a buttered 
 paper, and serve with red currant jelly. Time, 
 three hours to roast. 
 
 MUTTON, LEG OF, TO ROAST. 
 
 Get a leg of about eight pounds, which 
 has hung at least a week, weather allowing. 
 During hot summer weather this joint gets 
 quickly tainted. Rub it lightly with salt, and 
 put it at once before a brisk sharp fire. Place 
 it close to the fire for the first five minutes, 
 then draw it farther back, and let it roast more 
 slowly until done. Baste continually with a 
 little good dripping until that from the joint 
 begins to flow. When within twenty minutes 
 of being dond, dredge it with flour, and baste 
 with butter or dripping; and when the froth 
 rises serve on a hot dish. Make a gravy, pour 
 off-the fat, when, if the dripping-pan has been 
 floured, any gravy will adhere to it. Add a 
 little extract of meat to this, and a little boil- 
 ing water, pepper, and salt. Pour the gravy 
 round the meat, not over it. Time, fifteen 
 minutes per pound, and fifteen minutes over. 
 Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient for 
 eight or nine persons. 
 
 MUTTON, LEG OF, WITH FORCEMEAT. 
 
 This savoury dish is very common in Aus- 
 -tralia. A leg of mutton is carefully boned so 
 *s not to injure the skin, the fat is pared off, 
 and about a pound of the mutton, with an 
 equal (quantity of bacon, minced together. A 
 seasoning of garlic, onions, and pickles is then 
 given to it, and the mince is ready; or, it is 
 sometimes prepared simply seasoned with pep- 
 per, salt, and a little chopped parsley, if to be 
 eaten by ladies or children. The hollow made 
 by cutting out the bone, etc., is filled with the 
 mince, and the skin secured over the opening 
 "to the underside. Meanwhile, a gravy is made 
 by boiling the bone and trimmings with as 
 much ' veal broth or water as will be necessary 
 to stew the leg ; vegetables are added, an onion 
 and a carrot sliced, a small bunch of parsley, 
 with a seasoning of pepper and salt. Lay 
 slices of bacon over the top of the leg, and stew 
 gently, with the lid of the pan closed, for three 
 hours and a half or more. When done, strain 
 the gravy, boil it rapidly, and reduce it to a 
 glaze, with which glaze the meat, or thicken 
 the ^ravy simply with browned flour, and serve 
 it with the meat. French beans, boiled in the 
 usual manner, drained, and then warmed up in 
 some of the gravy, may be laid under and 
 around the leg of mutton. Probable cost. Is. 
 per pound. Sufiicient for seven or eight 
 persons. a 
 
 MUTTON, LEG OF, WITH GARLIC. 
 
 The peculiar pungent taste of garlic is very 
 little liked by the English, althoilgh we can- 
 not but acknowledge that it adds to the variety 
 of dishes that may at times prove acceptable. 
 The following' tr'eatment will considerably 
 soften the garlic's acridness and render it less 
 objectionable, while at the same time retain- 
 ing its characteristic flavour. Stuff under the 
 skin of a leg of mutton near the shank three or 
 four cloves of garlic that may have been boiled 
 or not, according to taste, the water having 
 been changed repeatedly to mellow their 
 
 flavour. Roast the leg in the usual way. Bivide 
 the cloves from the bulbs of as many garlics as 
 will be sufficient for the sauce, peel, and put 
 them into water, boil for a few minutes, when 
 throw the water off and replace it by more boil- 
 ing water. Do this after several successive in- 
 tervals of five minutes, always slightly salting 
 the water. When the garlic has become suf- 
 ficiently tender to pulp, drain off the water by 
 pressing the bulbs, and add good gravy made 
 from the roasting of the meat. When hot, 
 serve the moat on the garlic. Time, a quarter 
 of an hour to a pound; to boil garlic, half an 
 hour. Probable cost of mutton. Is. per pound. 
 
 MUTTON, LEG OF, WITH POTATOES. 
 
 This homely mode of cooking a leg of mut- 
 ton is not to be set aside because of its sim- 
 plicity. If baked carefully, and cooked to the 
 right point as it ought to be, a feat not always 
 accomplished when baked at the common oven, 
 ib will' be found excellent, particularly the 
 potatoes, as they will have absorbed all the 
 dripping of the joint, and, where economy in 
 the use of meat as a family dinner is concerned, 
 the potatoes will satisfy the appetite, especi- 
 ally of children, without encroaching largely on 
 the joint. Everybody "will allow that the odour 
 of the working man's Sunday dinner is most 
 tempting to the appetite; but, barring the 
 question of fire, we do not think it the most 
 economical of dishes. Time, a quarter of an 
 hour to the pound. Probable cost. Is. per 
 pound. Sufficient, a leg of mutton of moderate 
 size for eight or more persons. 
 
 MUTTON, LOIN OF, COOKED LIKE VENISON. 
 
 A loin of mutton may be made to eat like 
 venison by boiling down a woodcock or snipe 
 which has hung so long as to be thought too 
 high for roasting, and using the gravy to moisten 
 the mutton stew. The mutton should have been 
 well kept. Take off the skin and some of the 
 fat, bone, and put it into a stewpan with the 
 gravy, and the same quantity of port wine, an 
 onion, a few peppercorns, half a tea-spoonful of 
 minced herbs, and a sprig of parsley. Stew 
 very gently, and skim well; this must be done 
 often and as long as any greasy particles re- 
 main on the surface. Serve* very hot with 
 red currant jelly. Time, about three hours. 
 Probable cost, lOd. per pound. 
 MUTTON, LOIN OF, ROASTED. 
 
 Follow the directions given for roast leg in 
 every particular (see Mutton, Leo op. To 
 Eoast), but trim off all unnecessary fat, which 
 may be used for a common suet crust. If the 
 fat be not turned to account there is no more 
 expensive joint than a loin of mutton. Cover 
 the fat with paper until within a quarter of an 
 hour of its being done, then remove, baste, 
 and flour slightly, to get it frothed. Time, a 
 quarter of an hour to the pound. Probable 
 cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient, one chop for 
 each person. 
 MUTTON, LOIN OF, ROLLED. 
 
 Ask the butcher to bone a well-hung joint, 
 and remove unnecessary fat; lay it out 
 flat, and season highly with allspice, cloves, 
 mace, and pepper, reduced to powder. Next 
 day cover the side on which the seasoning has 
 
MUT 
 
 439 
 
 MUT 
 
 been laid with a forcemeat as for veal, and roll 
 the loin into a tight compact shape, which must 
 be secured with a string. Roast it until half 
 done, or bake it, as most convenient, but 'only 
 brown it slightly, and remove the fat from the 
 gravy when cold. Have ready a gravy made 
 from boiling the bones, adding to it that which 
 dripped; put the meat and gravy into a stew- 
 pan, aiid stew until tender. A few mushrooms 
 or half a glassful of mushroom ketchup may be 
 added while stewing : when done, put the meat 
 unrolled on a dish; add a table-spoonful of 
 baked flour, and pour tl^e gravy over, salted to 
 taste, and boiled. A Ipiji of, mutton boned, 
 rolled, then roasted in the usual way is an ex- 
 cellent joint; Time to bake, an hour and a 
 half; to stew and bake, three hours. Prob- 
 able cost, lOd. per pound. 
 
 MUTTON, LOIN OF, STEWED, WITH PICKLES. 
 
 Having roasted a loin of mutton uHtil nearly 
 done, cut off from three to four pounds of the 
 chump end, and pare the fat to within aii eighth 
 of an inch. Put three large mushrooms into a 
 stewpan with half a pint of mutton gravy, and 
 stew them for a few minutes ;, then put in the 
 meat, and add a tea-spoonful of soy, two of 
 chutney, a table-spoonful of shallot vinegar, 
 and a quarter of a pint or more of mixed 
 pickles; add of salt and cayenne about half a 
 grain. While stewing, keep the mutton well 
 moistened with the gravy ; remove the fat be- 
 fore serving, and send to table very hot. Time, 
 an hour and a half to stew underdone mutton. 
 Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 MUTTON, MINCED. 
 
 Put a lump of butter into a stewpan; when 
 it has melted dredge in flour enough to absorb 
 the butter, and keep it well stirred over a slow 
 flre until of a light brown colour ; add half a 
 potiud of mutton, minced ' finely, from a roast 
 leg, and have ready a cupful of good broth made 
 from the bone, with the addition of a bit of 
 well-flavoured ham, and pepper, gait, and nut- 
 meg; mix well, and igimmer gently fbr half an 
 hour, but do not boil. Eemove from the fire, 
 and stir in a bit of anchovy b.utter the size of a 
 walnut. Serve with a garnish of toasted sip- 
 pets or a border, of- endive, boiled as follows. 
 Pick the yellowish-white leaves from the stalk, 
 and boil them in plenty of salted water, then 
 throw them into cold; drain, press, and chop. 
 Make hot in a clean stewpan with a little good 
 white sauce, season with pepper, salt, and nut- 
 meg, add the yolk of an egg or two, and serve 
 round the mutton. 
 
 MUTTON, MINCED (another way). 
 
 Take the remains of a roast leg or loin with- 
 out fat, mince it very finely, put it into a stew- 
 paji with a breakfast-cupful of gravy drawn 
 from the roast to a pound and a lialf of meat, 
 and season with pepper, salt, and a little grated 
 nutmeg; add a table-spoonful of browned flour, 
 and Jet the mince heat gradually, but do not let 
 it boil. In twenty minutes serve Very hqt with 
 poached eggs round the dish ; or the mince may 
 be made more savoury 'by the addition of a 
 dessert-spoonful of walnut ketchup, and' the 
 same of walnut pickle, Oude sauce, etc., but less 
 gravy' will be required. Minced mutfoh may be 
 
 served with a border of macaroni, first boiled 
 tender in salted water, and then stewed after 
 draining in new milk. Four ounces of macaroni 
 will require one quart of water, and when 
 drained from it half a pint of milk will be 
 sufiicient; add to the milk an ounce of butter, 
 the half of a small tea-spoonful of made mus- 
 tard, to which a quarter of a grain of cayenne 
 has been added,, and a little salt. Time, half an 
 hour to boil macaroni in water; quarter of an 
 hour in milk. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 MUTTON, MINCED AND BAKED. 
 
 Take slices of mutton (the meat from a. cold 
 roast leg is best) without much fat, mince them, 
 and add a tea-spoonful of savoury herbs, a 
 blade of pounded mace, two shredded shallots 
 or an onion chopped very fine, and some of the 
 meat-gravy to moisten, with a very little flour 
 to thicken the gravy, and season with pepper 
 and salt.' Fill a pie-dish with alternate layers 
 of mashed potatoes and the minced mutton ; 
 put potatoes at the bottom of the dish, and 
 finish. the top in the same way. Time, half an 
 hour to bake. Sufficient, a pound and ■» half 
 of mutton for four or five persons. 
 
 MUTTON, MINCED, WITH RED CABBAGE. 
 
 Mince the remains of cold roast mutton, and 
 flavour with chopped onion, pepper and salt. 
 Make a little good thickened gravy, put in the 
 meat, and let it simmer very slowly for twenty 
 minutes. Arrange in the centre of a dish, with 
 a few sippets on top aild red cabbage round as 
 a border. To cook the cabbage it should be put 
 into boiling salted water, and boiled for half 
 au hour, then, drained, chopped up, and fried in 
 a little butter till tender, then well peppered. 
 
 MUTTON, NECK OF, BOILED. 
 
 Shorten the ribs and saw off the chinebone of 
 a neck of mutton, or from three to four pounds 
 of the best end; to look well it should not 
 exceed five inches in length. Pare off the fat 
 that is in excess of what may be eaten, and 
 boil slowly in plenty of water slightly salted; 
 skim carefully, and remove the fat from the 
 surface. The meat may be served plain,' with 
 caper or parsley sauce, and a garnish of boiled 
 mashed turnips and carrots cut into thin strips, 
 placed alternately round the dish. . Four mid- 
 dle-sized turnips, and three carrots may be boiled 
 with the mutton. Time, a full quarter of an 
 hour to the pound. Probable cost, lOd. to Is. 
 per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 MUTTON, NECK OF, BROWNED. 
 
 Boil as in preceding recipe, but not quite so 
 long; finish by cooking the mutton before the 
 fire, ^rst covering it with a mixture of fine 
 bread-crumbs, parsley, and sweet herbs, pepper, 
 salt, and a little mushroom powder, cemented 
 together with the beaten yQ,lk of qne or mori 
 eggs. .When nicely browned, serve with half a 
 piijt of .gra.vy thickened with a, dessert-spoonful 
 of browned flour, and add a table-spoonful of 
 lemon-juice. Time, a quarter of an hour to the 
 pound. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Suf- 
 ficient,^ four pounds for six or seven persons. 
 
 MUTTON, NECK OF, ROASTED. 
 
 We have already recommended that the rib- 
 bones of this joint should be shortened, to give 
 
MUT 
 
 440 
 
 MUT 
 
 a nice appearance to cutlets, and we also, for 
 economy's sake, and to give a nice squareness to 
 the piece of meat, advise the puri.naser to get 
 it done, if possible, by the butcher. The meat 
 of the neck from a well-fed sheep we think 
 superior to that of the loin. Take off any excess 
 of fat, and roast precisely according to direc- 
 tions given for roast loin (see Mutton, Loin of, 
 E.OASTEB), always remembering that the fire 
 for cooking mutton should be clear and brisk, 
 but not fierce. A little salt rubbed over the 
 joint when it is ready to be put to the fire, a 
 liberal basting, and some flour dredged over, to 
 froth it nicely, are all that is wanted to satisfy a 
 good appetite. Serve with plain gravy, baked 
 tomatoes, or currant jelly. Time, a quarter of an 
 hour to the pound. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. 
 Sufficient, four pounds for four or five persons. 
 
 MUTTON PATTIES. 
 
 Line some tartlel-moulds with a good paste. 
 Take and pound together an equal weight of 
 lean mutton from the fillet and fat bacon. 
 Season to taste with salt, a very small quantity 
 of spice, and cayenne pepper. Place a round 
 ball of the meat into each patty-pan, cover with 
 paste, and make a small hole in the centre. 
 Bake in a quick oven, and pour into each patty 
 through a funnel a little well-seasoned gravy, 
 or glaze before the patties get cold. Time, 
 about twenty minutes. Probable cost of paste. 
 Is. 4d. per pound. 
 
 MUTTON PATTIES (another way). 
 
 These patties are often made with cooked 
 meat, which is minced, then hashed in good 
 gravy, seasoned with pepper, salt, and a little 
 ketchup. The mince should not boil, but be 
 made hot, and thickened. Patty-pans, lined 
 with puff-paste and filled with the meat, will 
 require a very short time to bake. Cover 
 with the paste, and put them into a quick oven. 
 Time, about fifteen minutes to bake. Probable 
 cost of paste, Is. per pound. 
 
 MUTTON PIE. 
 
 A very good family pie is made with the re- 
 mains of a cold leg, loin, or any other joint of 
 mutton from which nice neat slices of rather 
 lean meat can be cut. These should be put with 
 a good seasoning, in alternate layers with thinly- 
 sliced potatoes, into a pie-dish, commencing at 
 the bottom with some of the meat, and finishing 
 at the top with potatoes. Parsley, savoury 
 herbs, onion, or shallot, with a little mace, white 
 pepper, and salt may be used at discretion. A 
 cupful of good gravy from the meat should be 
 poured into the pie before the crust is put on. 
 Suet is generally used for the crust. Time, an 
 hour to bake. Probable cost, exclusive of meat, 
 6d. to 8d. 
 
 MUTTON PIE, GOOD. 
 
 Make a seasoning of chopped parsley (about 
 two table-spoonfuls), of powdered savoury herbs 
 and a minced shallot, in ec[ual proportions (a 
 dessert-spoonful), or an onion shredded small 
 (the shallot being omitted), with pepper and salt 
 to taste. Cut from two to three pounds of neat 
 chops from the loin or neck of mutton, weighed 
 after the bone and much of the fat have been 
 removed ; put them, well covered with the above 
 seasoning, into a pie-dish. Cut three kidneys 
 
 into halves, and each half into two parts, dis- 
 tribute them equally amongst the meat, pour in 
 half a pint of veal broth or water, and bake 
 with a puff or good suet crust; the latter will 
 be found very suitable if eaten hot. A table- 
 spoonful of ketchup and two of port wine may 
 be added to the gravy, but there should in that 
 case be less water. Time, about an hour and 
 three-quarters to bake. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. 
 Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 MUTTON, POTTED. 
 
 Cut into thin slices, and then pound together 
 in a mortar, eight ounces of well-dressed roast 
 mutton, freed from fat and sinew, and half that 
 quantity of boiled tongue; then mix with the 
 pounded meat three ounces of good fresh butter, 
 and add, while pounding, a salt-spoonful each 
 of made mustard and white pepper, with a 
 quarter of a grain of cayenne, and salt, if re- 
 quired. Store in a cool place, and in an earthen- 
 ware jar, or in several small ones, over the con- 
 tents of which should be run some clarified 
 butter. 
 
 MUTTON, RAGOUT OF. 
 
 Slice thinly two turnips, two carrots, and two 
 onions; these last brown in a broad-bottomed 
 stewpan with two ounces of butter or dripping, 
 shaking in a little flour, and stirring to prevent 
 it from browning too quickly. Cut small short 
 chops from a cold roast loin or neck, or from 
 the breast small square pieces, free them from 
 fat, and brown them on each side in the same 
 butter; then pour in as much weak broth or 
 water as may be required, say about half a pint, 
 and add the sliced turnips and carrots, a sprig 
 or two of parsley, and some pepper and salt. 
 Stew very gently until the vegetables are 
 tender. The flavour of this ragout may be 
 varied by the introduction of celery, cut let- 
 tuces, or green peas, and these last, when in 
 season, are generally preferred to turqips and 
 carrots. Arrange the meat in a circle, and put 
 the vegetables in the centre, with the sauce over 
 all. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Prob- 
 able cost, exclusive of meat, 4d. Sufficient, a 
 pound and a half for four persons. 
 
 MUTTON, RAGOUT OF, FRENCH. 
 
 Place three ounces of butter in a stewpan; as 
 it melts, stir in two table-spoonfuls of flour ; 
 continue to stir until it is nicely browned, then 
 put in about two pounds of breast or neck of 
 mutton cut into square pieces, and sufficient 
 water to nearly cover the mutton ; flavour with a 
 few sprigs of parsley, which must afterwards be 
 removed. Add two lumps of sugar, and pepper 
 and salt to taste. When it has once boiled, re- 
 move to the side of the fire, and be careful to let 
 it only simmer for an hour. Fry to a nice 
 brown three good-sized turnips previously cut 
 into dice ; put them into the stewpan with the 
 meat, and simmer for a couple of minutes. 
 Arrange the ragout upon the dish, placing the 
 turnips in the centre, and the pieces of meat 
 round the edge. Pour the sauce over the whole, 
 and serve very hot. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 MUTTON RECHAUFFE. 
 
 Melt a table-spoonful of butter, add two 
 table-spoonfuls of red currant jelly (best to dis- 
 solve it first). Stir; then put m a glass of 
 
MUT 
 
 441 
 
 MUT 
 
 sherry or Madeira and about half a tea-spoonful 
 of Bovril mixed with a little water. To rub the 
 bottom of the pan with a slice of onion adds to 
 the flavour ; or eook a head of garlic in the 
 mixture and remove after a few seconds. Put in 
 the meat, cover, and keep hot for a few minutes. 
 Try beef the same way, adding a little mustard 
 and port instead of the wines named above. 
 
 MUTTON, ROAST, WITH GARLIC (a German recipe). 
 Separate a garlic bulb into the smallest cloves, 
 and envelop each one in a leaf of green sage. 
 Beat the joint — leg or shoulder — take off the 
 ekin, and force the garlic well into the middle 
 of the mutton by several holes made for the 
 purpose. Secure the openings, rub the joint 
 with pepper and salt, and roast in the usual 
 way. Long strips of shallot are often used in- 
 stead of garlic; these are put in with the lard- 
 ing-pin all over the mutton. A few tarragon- 
 leaves or tarragon vinegar, a tea^spoonful of 
 caraway-seeds, a quarter of a pint of beer, and 
 the same quantity of water should be put into 
 the dripping-pan to baste the meat. Time, a 
 quarter of an hour to the pound. 
 
 MUTTON, SADDLE OF (,k la Portugaise). 
 
 Prepare a marinade as follows. Boil together, 
 in two quarts of port wine mixed with a pint of 
 vinegar, a couple of onions each stuck with six 
 cloves, six bay-leaves, two large carrots, half a 
 dozen small turnips, a bunch of parsley, and a 
 clove of garlic or three shallots. Put the mut- 
 ton into a rather deep dish, first neatly trim- 
 ming the top and flaps, and removing with the 
 skin any excess of fat; pour the boiling marin- 
 ade over it, and keep it basted often until cold ; 
 then turn the meat in it once a day, and, in five 
 or six days, drain, wipe dry, and roast for a 
 quarter of an hour over the usual time for 
 mutton, covering it with a buttered paper, and 
 basting constantly until done. Serve with a 
 gravy from the meat to which a little of the 
 marinade has been strained and a good quan- 
 tity of currant jelly been added. Time for ten 
 pounds, two hours and three-quarters. Prob- 
 able cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient for seven 
 or eight persons. 
 
 MUTTON, SADDLE OF, ROASTED. 
 
 A saddle of mutton, if hung in a cool airy 
 place, will improve with keeping from one to 
 three weeks, according to the weather; but as 
 this part of the sheep is the most tender and 
 delicate, it may, if liked, be roasted in from 
 four to five days. If not for a large family, get 
 the joint well trimmed; the flaps, tail, and 
 chump end may be cut away, which will con- 
 siderably lessen the weight, and be found more 
 advantageous to the purchaser, even at a 
 higher price per pound. In its entire state it is 
 considered an expensive joint, consequently 
 people of moderate means and family, unless so 
 accommodated by the butcher, can seldom order 
 it. Boast as before directed for roast loin (see 
 Mutton, Loin or. Roasted). The joint should 
 be skinned, and the skin tied over it securely 
 until within half an hour of its being sent to 
 table, when it should be removed, and the sur- 
 face browned and frothed. It should be of a 
 pale brown colour. Make a gravy in the drip- 
 ping-pan : do not pour it over the meat, but put 
 
 a little in the dish, and more in '• tureen, with 
 red currant jelly or port-wine sauce. Time, ten 
 pounds, two hours and a half, or less if liked 
 underdone. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. 
 Sufficient for seven or eight persons. 
 
 MUTTON SAUSAGES. 
 
 A delicate sausage is made from the remains 
 of an underdone leg of roast mutton, or any 
 other joint from which slices can be got without 
 fat. Chop a pound of lean underdone mutton 
 and six ounces of beef suet separately ; then mix 
 them with four ounces of finely-prepared bread- 
 crumbs and put them into a basin with two dozen 
 oysters bearded and chopped, two anchovies, a 
 seasoning of thyme, marjoram, and powdered 
 mace, and some pepper and salt. Moisten with 
 two beaten eggs, and a little of the anchovy 
 liquor if required. Make into a firm paste, and 
 roll into sausages or make into balls, but the 
 sausage-meat will keep for a few days. Time to 
 fry, seven or eight minutes. 
 
 MUTTON, SCRAG OF (k la Menehould), 
 
 Soak in warm water and wash the undivided 
 scrag end of the neck of mutton ; drain, sprinkle ' 
 lightly wjth pepper, and hang it for a couple of 
 days. Slice three or four young carrots, and 
 divide into quarters three middle-sized onions, 
 line the bottom of a stewpan with thin slices of 
 fat bacon, lay in the scrag, with slices of bacon 
 over the top, 'and the vegetables which have 
 been sliced, with a couple of bay-leaves, a sprig 
 of thyme, marjoram, and basil, a small bunch 
 of parsley, thirty white peppercorns, and as 
 much liquor from the boiling of a knuckle or 
 scrag of veal as will cover the meat well. Pre- 
 pare a cupful of bread-crumbs, seasoned with 
 pepper and salt, and when the meat is tender 
 drain it from the gravy in which it has stewed: 
 cover with the seasoned crumbs, and brown in a 
 quick oven, or with a salamander. Time, four 
 hours to stew. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. 
 
 MUTTON, SHOULDER OF (a recipe by a Scotch 
 lady). 
 Hang a shoulder of mutton until tender, and, 
 when ready for cooking, put it before a bright 
 clear fire for three-quarters of an hour, or, ac- 
 cording to the weight of the shoulder, until 
 -half done. Remove the joint from the fire, and, 
 as expeditiously as possible, score it on both 
 sides. Put it again to the fire, first emptying 
 the dripping-pan of the fat, and replacing it 
 with the gravy that may have flowed while 
 scoring, and enough of meat-gravy to make 
 half a pint; add the same quantity of port wine, 
 and a spoonful each of walnut and mushroom 
 ketchup, with two fine anchovies boned and 
 pulped, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and salt to 
 taste. Allow the usual time for roasting, but 
 baste copiously with the above sauce. RuId the 
 dish, when made hot, on which the mutton is to 
 be served with cut garlic or shallot, and pour 
 the sauce from the pan over it. 
 
 MUTTON, SHOULDER OF, BROILED. 
 
 Half roast, or stew, or parboil, a joint of six 
 pounds, then cut it once or twice on both sides 
 to the bone, season the cuts and outside with 
 cayenne, and finish dressing on a gridiron over 
 a brisk fire; take the gravy, not the fat, add 
 to it some pickled mushrooms, large and small. 
 
MUT 
 
 442 
 
 MUT 
 
 and strew over, and garnish the broil when 
 served. It is needless to remind the reader that 
 dishes and plates should all be made very hot, 
 especially for mutton. Time to parboil, one 
 hour; to grill, twenty minutes. Average cost, 
 lOJd. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 MUTTON, SHOULDER OF, ROASTED. 
 
 This joint should be well hung ; a fortnight in 
 cold dry weather will not be found too much if 
 for a roast; Rub one of six or seven pounds 
 lightly with salt, and put it before a bright clear 
 fire ; baste continually until done, keeping it at 
 eighteen inches distance from the fire to let the 
 heat penetrate the middle. When within twenty 
 minutes of being ready for serving,, the joint 
 should be drawn nearer to the fire, dredged 
 slightly with flour, and basted to give it a 
 frothed appearance. Have ready some boiled 
 Spanish onions, glaze them, put the mutton on 
 a hot dish, make a gravy from the drippings, 
 garnish with the glazed onions, and send onion 
 sauce to table in a tureen. Time, a quarter of 
 an hour to the pound. Probable cost, 9id. to 
 lOd. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 iVIUTTON, SHOULDER OF, STEWED. 
 
 Hang this joint as long as possible in dry cold 
 weather;, for stewing three days will be suf- 
 ficient. Procure one, not too large or too fat, 
 pare off what is unnecessary of the fat, and use 
 it for a common crust ; take out the bladebone, 
 and fill the space with a forcemeat as for veal, 
 sew up the opening, slice an onion, a carrot, a 
 turnip, and a stick of celery, put them with the 
 3nuttoh into a stewpan, poiir in good stock 
 enough to cover, and add a clove of garlic,, a 
 bay-leaf, a blade of mape, two cloves, a dessert- 
 spoonful of salt, half the quantity of white 
 pepper, and a large pinch of cayenne. Let the 
 whole simmer gently, with the lid closed, for 
 four hours, strain, and thicken the gravy with 
 an ounce of butter rolled in flour ; '^put the meat 
 on a hot dish with a little of the gfavy, add to 
 the remainder half the juice of a lemoH and a 
 glassful of white wine. Serve with French 
 l)eanB boiled in the usual way, drained and 
 warmed up in good gravy, or with spinach round 
 the dish. Probable cost, 9d. to lOd. per pound.. 
 
 MUTTON, SHOULDER OF, STUFFED. 
 
 Haying boned a shoulder of mutton, and 
 trimmed off the excess of fat, "stretch it' out on 
 a pasteboard, and sprinkle over it pepper and 
 salt,, iMake a sausage-meat with equal quanti- 
 ties of lean pork and bacon (a pound in all), 
 seasoned with pepper, salt, and a little mace; 
 pound these in a mortar, and stuff; the shoulder ; 
 then round it to a nice shape, having first 
 secured the forcemeat; use strong thread, and 
 if properly and carefully done there is no fear 
 of the sausage-meat leaving its place. Put the 
 stuffed shoulder in » large stewpan containing 
 some melted butter, and brown slightly both 
 sides of it. Pour in a quart of good broth or 
 water, and when it has boiled, and been 
 skimmed, add a bunch of savoury herbs, an 
 onion, a carrot, a handful of button mush- 
 rooms, and two cloves ; simmer until done, bast- 
 ing the meat often with the gravy during the 
 last half hour. Serve the meat on a hot dish ; 
 strain and take off all fat from the gravy, keep 
 
 the meat hot before the fire, return the grayyto 
 a small stewpan, and boil rapidly until it is re- 
 duced in quantity; then pour it over the meat, 
 and garnish with glazed onions. Time to brown, 
 seven or eight minutes for each side; to dress 
 altogether, two hours and a half. Probable 
 cost, 9Jd. to lOd."" per pound. Sufficient for 
 seven or eight persons. 
 
 MUTTON, SHOULDER OF, WITH OYSTERS. 
 Let the shoulder be well hung, then salt it 
 well for two days. Bone it, and sprinkle it with 
 pepper and a little pounded mace. Lay some 
 oysters over it, and roll the meat up tightly, 
 and tie it. Stew in a small quantity of water, 
 with an onion and a few peppercorns, till quite 
 tender. Have ready a good gravy, and some 
 oysters stewed in it ; thicken this with flour and 
 butter, and pour it over the mutton when the 
 tape is taken off. {See also Otstebs with Les 
 
 OF MtTTTON.) 
 MUTTON, SPICED. 
 
 Cut a pound and a half of lean meat into 
 pieces about the size of a walnut, sprinkle them 
 with a mixture of curry-powder, ground all- 
 spice and coriander, powdered ginger and 
 cloves — a good tea-spoonful in all. Then dredge 
 each piece with pepper. Melt some dripping, 
 fry the meat to a delicate brown with some 
 onion cut into dice; then pour the fat off, add 
 half a pint of brown stock, put in four ounces 
 of shredded celery, boil up and skim. Cook 
 until the meat is very tender. Half an hour 
 before serving, add a heaped table-spoonful of 
 sultana raisins, and salt and chutney to taste; 
 also an ounce of riceflour blended with stock. 
 When flnished, the whole should be thick, the 
 sauce just coating the meat. Serve with any 
 approved vegetable. 
 
 MUTTON STEAKS, FRENCH. 
 
 Cut steaks from the neck ; make them neat by 
 shorteping the bones, which put aside with the 
 trimmings for gravy. Put the steaks into a 
 stewpan, and bring them to the boil, with a 
 few small onions, savoury herbs, and water to 
 cover ; remove at once to a dish to drain, put the 
 trimmings and bones into the liquor from which 
 the steaks were taken, and boil for an hour. 
 When strained, set the gravy to cool, and when 
 the fat is cleared off, thicken it with browned 
 butter and flour ; flavour with salt, pepper, and a 
 little vinegar. When the steaks are ready (they 
 should be fried in the meanwhile, and dipped 
 into egg, bread-crumbs, and flnely-minced 
 herbs), pour the gravy on a hot deep dish, and 
 lay the steaks in it. Time to boil steaks, two 
 minutes; to fry, five minutes. Sufficient, two 
 pounds for four persons. 
 
 MUTTON, STEWED. 
 
 Take slices of half an inch thick, and without 
 fat, from any roast joint, season them well 
 with pejiper, salt, a Ijttle shredded shallot,, 
 and mushroom powder, mixed together, aiJd 
 sprinkled over the meat. Put a pint of broth 
 into a stewpan, lay in the meat with a couple of 
 young carrots sliced, and a couple of small 
 onions. Let the mutton stew until the carrots 
 are tender ; keep the lid of the stewpan closed. 
 Put the meat in the centre of a hot dish, thicken 
 the gravy with half an ounce of butter kneaded 
 
MUT 
 
 443 
 
 MUT 
 
 with a little flour, add any store sauce — Harvey's 
 or any other preferred — and serve with dried 
 rice round the dish. Time to stew meat, half 
 an hour.. Sufficient, a pound and a half . of 
 meat for. four or more persons. 
 
 MUTTON, STEWED AND BAKED. 
 
 A shoulder of mutton is deprived of its greasy 
 quality by heing partially boiled, or rather 
 stewed, and its cooking completed in the oven. 
 Procure a middle-sized shoulder, trim off any 
 excess of fat, and bone it ; put it into a stewpan 
 with just water enough to cover it. Simmer 
 gently for two hours or more, according to the 
 size. Put it before the fire, tie a good lump of 
 butter in a coarse muslin, rub the mutton well 
 over, and then strew, thickly with fine raspings, 
 chopped parsley, thyme, pepper, and salt, mixed 
 together. Finish the cooking in the oven ; half 
 an hourjn a good oven will be sufficient. Serve 
 on a hot dish with boiled spinach round the mut- 
 ton, and gravy in a tureen. Probable cost, 9d. 
 to lOd. per pound. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 MUTTON STOCK FOR SOUP. 
 
 For a rich soup allow a pound of meat to a 
 pint of water, but do n«t use mutton only; a 
 mixture of meats will make the best soup. Four 
 pounds of mutton, with the eame weight of beef, 
 or rather less of veal, necks and feet of poultry, 
 bones of undressed fowls, and of a calfs head, 
 with a layer of lean ham, or half a pound of 
 Jewish smoked beef, laid over the bottom of an 
 iron soup kettle, and a pint or a pint and a half 
 of water to each pound of meat, will make very 
 excellent stock, with the addition of vegetables. 
 Boil the meat and bones slowly, and skim care- 
 fully; add to each gajlon, when boiling, one 
 •ounce and a half of saltj three onions, each with 
 four cloves, three carrpts, three turnips, two 
 heads of celery, a bunch of parsley and thyme, 
 a blade of mace, and a dozen white pepper- 
 cornp ; strain for use. Time to simmer, six 
 hours. 
 
 MUTTON TAILS. 
 
 Cut them into halves and boil, or rather stew, 
 until tender, in broth or water, skimming the 
 surface free of all fat, etc. ; add salt, an onion 
 or two stuck with cloves, a bunch of parsley, and 
 a few fine herbs. When tender, take them out, 
 drain, and score them, dip them into dissolved 
 butter; cover with nicely-seasoned bread- 
 crumbs, and when these have dried pour more 
 dissolved butter over, and again cover with the 
 crumbs, and brown with a salamander ; thicken 
 the gravy, add a little lemon-juice, and serve 
 with the gravy poured over them, which should 
 be strained. Mutton tongues may be cooked in 
 the same manner, and served on the same dish, 
 arranged alternately. Time, two to three hours 
 to stew. 
 
 MUTTON TEA (Invalid Cookery). 
 
 To a pound and a half of lean juicy mutton, 
 cut into small dice and without bone, allow one 
 pint of water ; put the meat into a saucepan, and 
 pour the water cold on it. Infuse this by the side 
 of the fire for half an hour, then boil, add a 
 little salt, and remove the scum. Simmer gently 
 for another half hour, and let it settle, then 
 strain, keeping back the sediment. If to be re- 
 
 warmed set the basin in boiling water. Prob- 
 able cost of mutton. Is. per pound. 
 
 MUTTON, TINNED. 
 
 (See Tinned Meats.) 
 
 MUTTON TONGUES. 
 
 Boil in good stock broth, having first blanched 
 them, half a dozen sheep's tongues until the 
 skin may be taken off easily, then split them 
 nearly through without separating them. Put 
 them into a stewpan with a little of the stock, a 
 glassful of white wine, half a pint of small 
 onions previously fried in butter, a little 
 shredded shallot, or if liked a small bit of 
 garlic and some button mushrooms, with a tea- 
 spoonful of mixed spice, and some pepper and 
 salt. When the onions are tender, set the 
 tongues on a dish, roots inwards, and serve with 
 a puree of oUions or turnips in the centre, and 
 the small onions as a garnish round them. 
 Time to boil, two to three hours; to warm in 
 sauce, fifteen minutes. 
 
 MUTTON TROTTERS. 
 
 Sheep's trotters are served plain boiled, ac- 
 companied with oil and vinegar in a tureen, or 
 they are boiled until tender, the bones ' care- 
 fully removed, and the feet dipped into a batter 
 before frying; they may also be stewed, and, 
 after boning, the space left by the bones may be 
 filled with a forcemeat as follows. Pound to- 
 gether a small quantity of cooked veal, and the 
 same of bacon or fresh suet; mix these with 
 finely-prepared bread-crumbs, add pepper, salt, 
 nutmeg, and bind with beaten egg. Take some 
 of the broth in which the trotters have been 
 boiled,, stew them in it thus stuffed for about 
 twenty minutes, adding a seasoning of shredded 
 shallot, and any store sauce. Put the trotters 
 on a dish, boil the sauce rapidly for ten min- 
 utes, then pour it over the feet, and serve. 
 
 MUTTON TROTTERS (another way). 
 
 These require long and slow stewing, either 
 in water with' vegetables, carrot, onion, celery, 
 a few cloves, and peppercorns, or with white 
 sauce; they are sometimes boned, and stuffed 
 with forcemeat, the trotters being first boiled 
 long enougb to , slip their bones easily without 
 injury to the skin. Lay them so stuffed into a 
 stewpan with a little Of their own liquor from 
 the boiling; when they have been stewed thus 
 for "hali an hour, take out the trotters and re- 
 duce the gravy to a glaze, with which cover 
 them, and serve. Before cooking, cut off the 
 hoof, singe, :wash, and blanch, for five minutes, 
 in boiling water. Time to stew, three hours 
 and a half. 
 MUTTON, WITH MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Peel four or five flap mushrooms, and wash, 
 but drain well; take thin slices from an under- 
 done leg of mutton, about a pound, season them 
 with cayenne and pepper, a quarter of a grain of 
 the former mixed with a salt-spoonful of the 
 latter, and a tea-spoonful of salt; add a shredded 
 onion, and a piece of garlic the size of a ^ea. 
 Lay half the seasoned mutton into a pie-dish, 
 and on it place the mushrooms, which should be 
 large enough to take a piece of butter about a 
 quarter of an ounce in weight. Fill the dish with 
 the remainder of the mutton, put bits ot butter 
 
NAP 
 
 Hi 
 
 NEA 
 
 over the top, and pour in a quarter of a pint of 
 gravy from the roast or the boiling of the bone, 
 to which a little pounded mace has been added. 
 Cover vfith another dish, and bake slowly. Time, 
 three-quarters of an hour to bake. Probable 
 cost, 6d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 
 three persons. 
 
 N 
 
 NAPLES, OR FINGER, BISCUITS. 
 
 Take eight eggs, divide the whites from the 
 yolks, and put them into separate bowls. Beat 
 the yolks thoroughly, and mix with these half a 
 pound of finely-sifted loaf sugar, a small pinch 
 of salt, two or three drops of almond, lemon, or 
 any other flavouring, two ounces of best flour, 
 and two ounces and a half of cornflour. Beat 
 thoroughly to a thick smooth batter. Whisk 
 the whites to a solid froth, add them a little at 
 a time to the rest, beating briskly all the while. 
 Place them on a baking-sheet, in fingers four 
 inches long and three-quarters of an inch wide, 
 sift a little sugar over them, and bake in a 
 moderate oven. They should not be allowed to 
 brown. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. per pound. 
 
 NAPLES SAUCE FOR FISH. 
 
 Put into an enamelled saucepan one-eighth 
 of a pint of freshly boiled shrimps from which 
 the shells have been removed, and with them a 
 large anchovy, freed entirely from skin and bone, 
 two shallots finely minced, a dessert-spoonful of 
 bruised capers, and three dessert-spoonfuls of 
 strained lemon-juice : a little piece of garlic not 
 larger than a small pea can also be put in if the 
 flavour is liked. Stir over the fire for six or 
 seven minutes, pour in a quarter of a pint of 
 good stock, and add a small pinch of cayenne 
 and half a blade of mace. Simmer gently for a 
 quarter of an hour, thicken the sauce with a 
 piece of butter, the size of a large egg, rolled 
 thickly in flour, and boil ten minutes longer. 
 Strain the sauce, adding another dessert-spoon- 
 ful of lemon-juice; make it as hot as possible 
 without letting it boil, then draw it from the 
 fire, and stir in a quarter of a pint of thick 
 cream. Serve at once. TimCj three-quarters of 
 an hour to prepare. Probable cost, lOd. Suf- 
 ficient for half a dozen persons. 
 
 NASTURTIUM. 
 
 This elegant plant sometimes goes under the 
 name of Indian cress. It thrives satisfactorily 
 in this country, but is a native of Peru. The 
 young leaves and flowers of the nasturtium are 
 frequently employed in salads. Its seeds, when 
 pickled, make a good substitute for capers (see 
 Nastubtium Seedb^, and its fine yellow flowers 
 are used to garnish dishes. There are two 
 species of nasturtium, the small and the large; 
 the latter is the hardier, and is that usually 
 cultivated. 
 
 NASTURTIUM PICKLE. 
 
 The buds and seeds of the nasturtium are both 
 used for pickle. The former are the more deli- 
 cate, the latter the more highly flavoured. The 
 buds should be gathered before the petals pro- 
 trude beyond the calyx, the seeds while they are 
 quite young and as soft as green peas. All that 
 
 is necessary is to gather them on a dry day, 
 put them at once into a jar, cover them well 
 with cold vinegar, and when the harvest is over 
 cork them down tightly. A little seasoning may 
 either be put into the vinegar or not. It may 
 consist of two ounces of salt and a dozen pepper- 
 corns to each quart of vinegar. At the end of a 
 few months this pickle will be found to be very 
 nicely flavoured. Time, to be kept twelve 
 months before being used. Probable cost, un- 
 certain, nasturtium buds and seeds being seldom 
 sold. 
 NASTURTIUM SEEDS (a substitute for Capers). 
 
 The seeds of the nasturtium plant are excel- 
 lent as a substitute for capers to be served with 
 boiled mutton. Gather them while they are 
 still young and green, wash them well in cold 
 water, put a little salt with them, and let them 
 soak until next day. Dry them well with a soft 
 cloth, put them into glass bottles, and cover 
 them entirely with cold vinegar. Two ounces of 
 salt, a dozen peppercorns, a small piece of 
 horse-radish, four or five leaves of tarragon, and 
 two cloves may be put with each quart of vine- 
 gar. Cork the bottles securely, and store them 
 in a cool dry place. The nasturtium seeds will 
 not be ready for use until the next summer. 
 Probable cost, uncertain, nasturtium seeds be- 
 ing seldom offered for sale. (See also Nastur- 
 tium Pickle.) 
 
 NASTURTIUM SEED SAUCE (for Boiled IVIutton.etc). 
 Take two table-spoonfuls of nasturtium seeds, 
 preserved as in the last recipe, cut them into 
 small pieces, and put them aside until wanted. 
 Dissolve one ounce of fresh butter in a stewpan, 
 dredge three-quarters of an ounce of flour slowly 
 into it, and make it quite smooth with the back 
 of " wooden spoon." Add half a pint of boiling 
 gravy, and beat it until quite free from lumps. 
 Season with a dessert-spoonful of nasturtium 
 vinegar, a pinch of cayenne, and a little salt if 
 required. Put in the bruised nasturtium seeds, 
 boil up once more, and serve. Time, twenty 
 minutes. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for six 
 or seven persons. 
 
 NASTURTIUM VINEGAR (for flavouring Sauces, etc.). 
 Gather nasturtium flowers which are fully 
 blown, put them into large glass bottles, and 
 shake them well together. Fill the bottle with 
 cold vinegar, and put a finely-minced shallot 
 and the third of a clove of garlic with each 
 quart. Let the vinegar remain for two months. 
 At the end of that time strain it through a 
 tamis, and add half an ounce of cayenne and 
 half an ounce -of salt. Put the vinegar into 
 small bottles, and cork securely. Probable cost, 
 8d. per quart. 
 
 NEAPOLITAN CAKE. 
 
 Blanch and pound to a smooth paste six 
 ounces of sweet almonds and one ounce of bitter 
 almonds, and whilst pounding them keep drop- 
 ping in a little orange-flower water or rose- 
 water to prevent them oiling. Add a pinch of 
 salt, the grated rind of a large lemon, four 
 ounces of fresh butter, half a pound of sifted 
 loaf sugar, and ten ounces of flour. When these 
 ingredients are thoroughly mixed, work them 
 together with the well-beaten yolks of six eggs, 
 and leave them in a cool place for half an hour. 
 
NEA 
 
 445 
 
 NEA 
 
 Boll the paste out to the thickness of a quarter 
 of an inch, stamp it out in rounds about the 
 size of an ordinary saucer, lay these upon a 
 floured tin, and bake in a good oven. When 
 they are firm and lightly coloured take them 
 out, trim the edges, and when quite cold lay 
 them one upon another, and spread a thick layer 
 of differently coloured jam on the top of each 
 round; and as each piece is put on press it 
 lightly with the hand, so that the jam shall 
 make the rounds adhere together, and so form 
 one cake. Before serving sift a little pink sugar 
 over the top, or garnish as fancy dictates. Time 
 to hake the rounds, about half an hour. Probable 
 cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 NEAPOLITAN CUSTARD PUDDING. 
 
 Cut two spongecakes into slices, and spread a 
 little jam over each slice. Place them in a but- 
 tered pie-dish, sprinkle over them six or seven 
 powdered ratafias, and pour over the whole a 
 custard made as follows. Sweeten half a pint 
 of milk with three lumps of sugar which have 
 been well rubbed upon the rind of a large fresh 
 lemon. Let the custard nearly boil, then stir 
 into it a table-spoonful of flour which has been 
 mixed smoothly with a little cold water. Add 
 two ounces of fresh butter, and stir the mixture 
 over the fire until it thickens. When almost 
 cold add the well-beaten yolks of three eggs, put 
 the pudding into a moderate oven, and bake 
 until it stiffens. Whip the whites of the eggs to 
 a, firm froth, spread this on the -top of the 
 pudding, and sift about a table-spoonful of 
 powdered white sugar over the surface. Put 
 the pudding in the oven again eight or ten min- 
 utes before it is served, that the eggs may 
 stiffen a little. Time to bake, half an hour. 
 Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 NEAPOLITAN ICES. 
 
 These are prepared by putting ices of various 
 kinds and colours into a mould, known as a 
 Neapolitan ice-box; when set they are turned 
 out, and cut into slices suitable for serving. 
 However small the pieces, the block should be cut 
 BO that each person gets a little of each kind. 
 To do this, slice downwards' first, then cut the 
 slices through once or twice in the contrary 
 direction. Four or five kinds are usually put in 
 the mould, although three will do. The follow- 
 ing will serve as a guide in arranging. First, 
 vanilla cream; then raspberry or cherry or cur- 
 rant water; coffee or chocolate in the middle; 
 then strawberry cream, with lemon or orange or 
 pineapple water to finish. The boxes may be 
 had in pewter or in tin. After filling the moulds 
 imbed in ice in the usual way. 
 
 NEAPOLITAN SAUCE. 
 
 Take one ounce of lean ham, mince it finely, 
 and put it into a small stewpan with a quarter 
 of a pint of thickened brown sauce, four table- 
 spoonfuls of stoc^, a glassful of claret, one table- 
 spoonful of Harvey's sauce, two table-spoonfuls 
 of red currant jelly, one table-spoonful of grated 
 horse-radish, two shallots, a bay-leaf, half a tea- 
 spoonful of powdered thyme, one clove, an inch 
 of mace, and a dozen peppercorns. Simmer gently 
 for twenty minutes ; strain, and serve. Prob- 
 able cost, 8d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 NEAPOLITAN SWEETMEATS (a dish for a Juvenile 
 party) . 
 Roll out some good puff-paste to the thick- 
 ness of a quarter of an inch. Stamp it out in 
 rounds, diamonds, or any shapes that may be 
 preferred, remembering only to have an equal 
 number of each shape. Place these on a floured 
 baking-sheet, and bake in a quick oven. When 
 cold spread a thick layer of different coloured 
 jams upon half of them, press the other halves 
 on the top, and garnish with a little piping of 
 pink and white icing. Time, ten minutes to 
 bake. Probable cost, 2s. per pound. 
 
 NEAT'S FEET, POTTED. 
 
 Boil two neat's feet in a small quantity of 
 water until the flesh easily leaves the bones. 
 Cut the meat into small pieces, and place these 
 neatly in a mould. Season a small quantity of 
 the liquid with salt, cayenne, and a little mace ; 
 pour it upon the meat, and when cold and stiff 
 turn it out on a dish, and garnish with parsley.. 
 Time, four hours or more to simmer the feet. 
 Probable cost, 8d. each. Sufficient for six or 
 eight persons. 
 
 NEAT'S FEET - SOUP. 
 
 Take two neat's feet which have been merely 
 scalded and cleaned, not boiled. Put them into 
 a stewpan with three quarts of good stock, one 
 pound of pickled pork, a bundle of sweet herbs, 
 and the rind and juice of a "small lemon ; simmer 
 gently for four hours until the liquid is reduced 
 to about half its original quantity and the bones 
 leave the flesh easily. Strain the soup ; cut the 
 meat into convenient-sized pieces, and return 
 both again to the saucepan, adding one pint of 
 strong beef -gravy and a glassful of sherry. Sea- 
 son with a little cayenne and salt, if necessary ; 
 boil up once more, and serve. Time, five hours. 
 Probable cost of feet, 8d. each. Sufficient for 
 six or eight persons. 
 
 NEAT'S FEET, WITH PARSLEY SAUCE. 
 
 A neat's foot or cow's heel, which is the same 
 thing, is generally three-parts cooked when 
 offered for sale. If it is wished to cook it 
 separately, one or two recipes will be found 
 elsewhere ; but the substance of the feet con- 
 sists of so little besides gelatine and bones that 
 they are more valuable when stewed to enrich 
 other dishes than when served by themselves. 
 They are sometimes stewed with a very small 
 quantity of water until the bone leaves the 
 flesh, and then served with a little parsley and 
 butter, flavoured with lemon-juice. Probable 
 cost, 8d. each. Sufficient, one foot for two 
 persons. 
 
 NEAT'S TONGUE (au Gratin). 
 
 Having cut up a boiled or roasted tongue 
 into thin slices, put into the dish in which they 
 are to be sent to table a little broth, a dash of 
 vinegar, some capers, parsley, chives, shallots, 
 and chervil, all chopped very fine, salt, whole 
 pepper, and the raspings of bread. Arrange the 
 slices of tongue neatly on this seasoning, and 
 put more over them, finishing with bread rasp- 
 ings, and bake in a Butch oven till lightly 
 browned. Pour a little broth over it, and serve. 
 Probable cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s. 6d. each. (See also 
 Ox Tongue.) 
 
NEA 
 
 41G 
 
 NEC 
 
 NEAT'S TONGUE, POTTED. 
 
 Take half a pound of cold boiled neat's tongue, 
 with a small quantity of fat. Cut it into thin 
 slices, and pound them in a mortar ; season with 
 half a tea-spoonful of white pepper, half a tea- 
 spoonful of fresh mustard, and three or four 
 grates of nutmeg; add, whilst pounding, two 
 ounces of clarified butter. Press the meat into 
 small potting-jars, and pour clarified butter over 
 the top. Time, half an hour to prepare. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for two or three 
 persons. 
 
 NEATS' TONGUES CURED FOR KEEPING. 
 
 Prepare two tongues by trimming them neatly 
 and cutting off the roots without disturbing the 
 under fat. Wash and dry them, and rub them 
 well with an ounce of saltpetre and an ounce of 
 sal prunella. Rub them well every day for four 
 days; place them in a long earthenware pan, 
 cover them with a pound of common salt, and 
 turn them every day for three weeks. Wipe 
 them with a soft cloth, dip them in bran, and 
 hang them in smoke for a fortnight. Probable 
 cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s. 6d. each. 
 
 NEATS' TONGUES, TO SALT FO.t IMMEDIATE 
 USE. 
 
 Take a couple of neats' tongues. Trim them 
 aeatly, and cut off the roots without taking away 
 the under fat, wash them thoroughly, dry them 
 in a cloth, and rub them well with two ounces 
 of common salt, one ounce of brown sugar, and 
 half an ounce of saltpetre. Place them in a 
 long deep pan, and turn and rub them every day 
 for a fortnight, at the end of which time they 
 will be ready for use. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. to 
 is. 6d. each. Sufficient, one tongue for eight 
 or nine persons. 
 
 NECTAR. 
 
 Take off the thin rind of two fresh lemons, 
 and put it into an earthenware jar with one 
 pound of chopped raisins and a pound and a half 
 of sugar. Pour over these ingredients two gal- 
 lons of boiling water, let the liquid stand until 
 cold, then add the strained juice of the lemons, 
 md leave it in a cool place for a week, stirring 
 it every day. Strain it through a jelly-bag until 
 juite clear, and bottle it for present use. Prob- 
 ible cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient for two gallons of 
 aectar. 
 
 MECTAR (another way). 
 
 Take two poundB of chopped raisins, four 
 pounds of loaf sugar, and two gallons of boiling 
 water. Mix these ingredients, and stir fre- 
 quently till the water is cold, then add two 
 emons, sliced, and three pints of proof spirit — 
 jither brandy or rum. Macerate in a closed 
 vessel for six or seven days, giving the vessel a 
 ihake now and again, then strain with pressure, 
 set the strained liqueur in a cool place for a 
 veek; when clear, decant and bottle oft. 
 
 NECTARINE JELLY. 
 
 Take a quart of clear wine jelly (see Madeira 
 iViNE Jelly), and pour a little of it, to the 
 lepth of half an inch, in a mould that has been 
 pell wetted and drained. Let it set. Pare 
 our nectariijes, and cut them in quarters, re- 
 Qoving the stones. Lay two or three pieces in 
 he mould, pour in a little jelly to form a set^ 
 
 ting for the frui,t, and let it set. When firm, 
 add more jelly, to the depth of an inch,, and let 
 that set also.. Then lay in another, piece or two 
 of the nectarines, add a little more jelly, and 
 continue in this way until all the fruit is used, 
 always letting each layer of jelly set tefore 
 more is, added. Set aside in a cool place (on ice 
 in warm weather) until firm. Probable post, 
 2s. 6d. 
 
 NECTARINE PUDDING. 
 
 Stew a dozen nectarines, not over-ripe, with a 
 little sugar until they are quite tender. Beat 
 them well with a fork, remove the skin and the 
 kernels, let them get cold, then mix with them 
 the well-beaten yolks of four and the whites of 
 two eggs, a quarter of a pint of finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs which have been soaked in as 
 much cream as they will absorb, and add a 
 little more sugar if required. Line a dish with 
 good puff-paste, pour in the mixture, and bake 
 in a moderate oven ; strew sifted sugar over the 
 top before serving. Time, one hour to bake. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 NECTARINE AND ALMOND SALAD. 
 
 Bemove the skin from a quart of nectarines, 
 then cut them into slices. Blanch and slice 
 half a cupful of almonds thinly. Mix the 
 nectarines and the almonds, and add two-thirds 
 of a cup of mayonnaise mixed with a third of a 
 cup of whippe(f cream. Serve on lettuce leaves. 
 
 NECTARINE SPONGE. 
 
 A third of a packet of gejatine must be 
 soaked in three table-spoonfuls of water till 
 soft, then an equal amount of boiling . water 
 should be added to a cupful of sugar, an,d the 
 sugar allowed to disolve. Now add the gela- 
 tine, and stir. Take from the fire and strain, 
 then add one table-spoonful of lemon-juice and 
 a cupful of fruit-juice. As it chills and 
 thickens beat the whites of three eggs till 
 stiff, add a cupful and a half of stiff cream, 
 and lightly mix these with the partly thickened 
 liquid. Whisk all together till spongy and 
 stiff. Turn into a mould lined with sliced 
 nectarines; set away in a cold place till chilled. 
 
 NECTARINES AND PEACHES. 
 
 These fruits are both the produce of the same 
 species of plant, the skin of the first being 
 smooth, that of the second downy. Although 
 both contain much sugar, neither can boast 
 of great nutritive properties. The seeds of 
 the nectarine are employed for making noyeau 
 and flavouring brandy. Peaches and necta^ 
 rines are dessert fruits of a very high order. 
 They make delicious preserves, and in America 
 and in some parts of France are used in 
 the manufacture of a sort of brandy. The 
 leaves contain prussic acid, and consequently 
 when steeped in gin or whisky impart a flavour 
 resembling that of noyeau. According to 
 Mr. London, the following are*the character- 
 istios of a good peach or nectarine. " A good 
 peach or nectarine possesses these qualities : the 
 flesh is firm; the skin is thin, of a deep or bright 
 red colour next the sun, and of a yellowish-green 
 next the wall ; the pulp is of a yellowish colour, 
 full of high-flavoured juice; the fleshy, part 
 thick, atfdthe stone small." The Reach was 
 
NEC 
 
 447 
 
 NET 
 
 introduced into this country about the middle 
 of the sixteenth century. It is always reared 
 against walls or under glass. Both peaches and 
 nectarines are divided into the " free-stone " or 
 "melting" peaches in which the flesh or pulp 
 separates readily from the stone; and the 
 " cling-stone varieties," in which the flesh^clings 
 or adheres to the stone. The first named are 
 usually the best flavoured. 
 
 NECTARINES, CANDIED. 
 
 Gather the nectarines when perfectly sound 
 and not over-ripe. Weigh them carefully, rub 
 tliem with a soft cloth, split them in halves, and 
 take out the stones; boil half their weight in 
 sugar with a quarter of a pint of water to each 
 pound, and when quite clear, put in the nectar- 
 ines, and let them boil gently until they are 
 clear, but unbroken; then lift them out care- 
 fully, and put them on an inverted sieve to 
 drain. Next day boil the syrup until it is quite 
 thick, put in the fruit, and boil it gently for five 
 minutes, and on taking out the nectarines again 
 drain them; repeat this process twice. After 
 the nectarines are taken out the last time spread 
 them on dishes, place them in a moderate oven, 
 sprinkle sifted sugar over them, and turn them 
 about until they are dry. 
 
 NECTARINES, PICKLED. 
 
 Gather the nectarines when fully grown, but 
 not quite ripe. Look them over carefully, re- 
 move any that are at all blemished, and put the 
 rest into salt and water sufiiciently strong to 
 float an egg; lay a thin board over the fruit to 
 keep it well under water, and leave it for two or 
 three days. At the end of that time drain it 
 well, dry it with a soft cloth, put it into pickling 
 jars, and cover entirely with good white wine 
 vinegar. Put half a blade of mace, six cloves, a 
 piece of whole ginger, and a quarter of a pint of 
 mustard-seed with each quart of vinegar. Tie 
 down the jars securely, and store in a cool dry 
 place. The pickle will be ready for use in two 
 months. Keep the nectarines well covered with 
 vinegar. 
 
 NECTARINES, PRESERVED. 
 
 Gather the nectarines when they are fully 
 grown, but not over-ripe. ' Split them in halves, 
 and remove the stones; put into a preserving- 
 pan sugar equal to the weight of the fruit, with 
 a quarter of a pint of water to every pound of 
 sugar ; boil it to a clear syrup, then put in the 
 fruit, and simmer gently for twenty minutes. 
 Pour the preserve carefully into a bowl, break- 
 ing it as little as possible, and let it remain until 
 the next day, when it must be boiled again for 
 ten minutes. Lift the fruit out carefully with a 
 spoon, put it into jars, boil the syrup fast by 
 itself for ten minutes, and pour it over the fruit ; 
 break the stones and blanch the kernels, put a 
 portion in each jar, and tie down securely. 
 Store in a cool dry place. 
 
 NECTARINES, PRESERVED (another w^y). 
 
 Gather the nectarines when fully grown, but 
 not over-ripe. Wipe them with a soft cloth, and 
 put them into a pan of boiling water. Place 
 them near the fire, but not upon it, as it is only 
 necessary that the water should not be ^allowed 
 to cool. Let the nectarines remain for an hour, 
 then take them out, throw them at oncfi into 
 
 cold water, and leave them for another hour. 
 Place them on an inverted sieve to drain. Push 
 out the stones. Put the weight of the fruit in 
 loaf sugar into a preserving-pan with a quarter 
 of a pint of cold water to each pound of sugar. 
 Boil to a clear syrup, then put in the nectar- 
 ines, and the kernels, blanched and sliced, and 
 let them boil for five minutes. Pour them care- 
 fully into a bowl, and let them remain for 
 twenty-four hours. Drain off the syrup, and 
 boil it for five minutes every day for a week, 
 pouring it each time boiling hot over the fruit. 
 At the end of that time boil all together quickly 
 for ten minutes. Lift the nectarines carefully 
 out with a spoon, and put them into jars with a 
 portion of the blanched kernels in each jar. Add 
 the< boiling syrup, and when cold tie down 
 securely. Store in a cool dry place. 
 
 NEGUS. 
 
 This popular ' beverage derives its name 'from 
 its originator. Colonel Negus. The ingredients 
 of which it is composed are either port or sherry 
 and hot water, the quantity of the water being 
 double that of the wine. Sweeten with lump 
 sugar, and flavour with a little lemoH- juice, and 
 grated nutmeg", and a morsel only of the yellow 
 rind of the lemon. It is an improvement to add 
 one drop of essence of ambergris, or eight or ten 
 drops of essence of vanilla to every twelve 
 glasses or so of negus. 
 
 NEGUS (another way). 
 
 Sweeten the wine according to taste, and 
 grate a little nutmeg into it. The proportions 
 aregenerally three ounces of sugar and a quarter 
 of a small nutmeg to a pint of port. Mix with 
 it an equal quantity of boiling water, and serve 
 either hot or cold. The thin rind of a lemon or 
 a Seville orange, without any of the inside of 
 the fruit, is a great improvement to negus. 
 Time, a few minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 
 according to the quality of the wine. Sufficient 
 for a. quart of negus. 
 
 NESSELRODE PUDDING. 
 
 Peel two dozen Spanish chestnuts. Put them 
 into boiling water for five minutes, then take off 
 the second skin, and boil them until tender with 
 half a stick of vanilla and half the thin rind of 
 a fresh lemon in the water with them. Drain 
 them well, and pound them in a mortar. Press 
 them through a hair-sieve, and mix with them 
 a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, a glass 
 of maraschino, and half a pint of thick cream. 
 Dissolve three-quarters of an ounce of best isin- 
 glass in a little water, stir it into half a pint of 
 hot cream, add the chestnuts, etc., and keep 
 stirring the mixture gently until it is sufficiently 
 stiff to hold the fruit without letting it fall to 
 the bottom. Work in two ounces of picked and 
 dried currants, and two ounces of candied citron 
 cut into thin strips. Put the mixture into an 
 oiled mould, and set in a cool place to stiffen. 
 Time, about three-quarters of an hour to boil 
 the chestnuts. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for 
 eight or nine persons. 
 
 NETTLE. 
 
 The common nettle is one of a tribe of plants 
 which includes the fig, the hop, and others em- 
 ployed as food. Netties are used as an article 
 of diet in some parts of the country. They are 
 
NET 
 
 448 
 
 NOR 
 
 wholesome, and almost medicinal in their pro- 
 perties. 
 
 NETTLE BEER. 
 
 The stalks and leaves of the nettle are used in 
 some parts of England for making a light kind 
 of beer, which may be seen advertised at stalls, 
 and in humble shops in Lancashire towns 
 
 NETTLES, SPRING, TO BOIL. 
 
 In many country places nettles are eaten 
 freely as a vegetable in the early part of the 
 year, as they are considered excellent for purify- 
 ing the blood. The young light green leaves 
 only should be taken. They must be washed 
 carefully and boiled in two waters, a little salt 
 and a very small piece of soda being put in the 
 last water. When tender, turn them into a 
 colander, press the water from them ; put them 
 into a hot vegetable-dish, score them across three 
 or four times, and serve. Send melted butter to 
 table in a tureen. - Time, about a quarter of an 
 hour to boil. Probable cost, uncertain, nettles 
 being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient, two 
 pounds for four persons. 
 
 NEUFCHATEL PUDDING. 
 
 Beat the yolks of four eggs briskly for three 
 or four minutes, then put them into a sauce- 
 pan, and with them the whites of two eggs, eight 
 ounces of fresh butter, and four ounces of 
 pounded and sifted sugar. Stir gently over a 
 slow fire for twenty minutes or more. Line a 
 pie-dish with good puff-paste. Spread on the 
 bottom a layer of cither orange marmalade or 
 apricot jam, pour the mixture on the top, and 
 bake in a good oven. Sift a little sugar over the 
 pudding before serving. Time to bake, about a 
 quarter of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Suf- 
 ficient for four persons. 
 
 NEUFCHATEL SALAD. 
 
 Mash two rolls of Neufchatel cheese, add two 
 table-spoonfuls of finely-chopped olives, moisten 
 with cream, season with salt and cayenne, form 
 into small balls. Serve on shredded lettuce and 
 garnish with four red peppers cut into strips, 
 and arranged in four piles in star shape. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 NEWCASTLE PUDDING. 
 
 Butter the inside of a pint basin, and fill it 
 with thin slices of stale bread and butter sprin- 
 kled with white sugar and grated lemon. Make 
 p. custard by mixing half a pint of new milk 
 with two well-beaten eggs. Flavour this also 
 with lemon. Pour the custard over the bread, 
 lay a buttered paper on the top, and steam it 
 very gently for about an hour. Turn out care- 
 fully, and serve with fruit or lemon syrup. 
 
 NEW COLLEGE PUDDINGS. 
 
 Shred a quarter of a pound of beef-suet very 
 finely, mix with it four ounces of finely-grated 
 "bread-crumbs, or, if preferred, powdered sweet 
 biscuit, add a quarter of a pound of currants, a 
 pinch of salt, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, half 
 a nutmeg, grated, and an ounce of finely- 
 shredded candied peel. Mix the dry ingredi- 
 ents thoroughly, moisten them with three well- 
 beaten eggs, add as much milk as will make 
 them of the proper consistency, and fry the mix- 
 ture in spoonfuls, in a little hot butter, till they 
 are brightly browned on both sides. Shake the 
 
 pan frequently to prevent them burning, and 
 turn them over when one side is sufficiently 
 cooked. Arrange them neatly on a hot dish, and 
 strew sifted sugar thickly over them before serv- 
 ing. Time, six or eight minutes to fry. Probable 
 cost, lOd. Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 NEW ENGLAND PANCAKES. 
 
 Mix three table-spoonfuls of fine flour very 
 smoothly with a little cold milk. Add gradu- 
 ally half r: pint of cream, a small pinch of salt, 
 the well-whisked yolks of four and the whites of 
 two eggs, a heaped table-spoonful of sifted 
 sugar, and two or three drops of lemon, almond, 
 or any other flavouring. Let the batter stand 
 for an hour before it is cooked, then fry it in 
 pancakes as thin as possible. Strew a little 
 sifted sugar and powdered cinnamon upon each 
 pancake, and roll it round before putting it in 
 the dish. Serve very hot. Time, five minutes 
 to fry each pancake. Probable cost. Is. 2d. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons.' 
 
 NEWMARKET PUDDING. 
 
 Put a pint and a quarter of good milk into 
 a saucepan, with three ounces of sugar, a bay- 
 leaf, the thin rind of half a lemon, and a little 
 piece of stick cinnamon. Simmer gently for ten 
 minutes. Let the milk cool, then mix with it 
 the well-whisked yolks of five and the whites of 
 three fresh eggs. Strain the mixture through a 
 fine sieve. Butter a pie-dish. Put a layer of 
 thin bread and butter at the bottom, then a 
 layer of currants and stoned-and-chopped 
 raisins. Repeat until the dish is nearly full. 
 Pour the custard over, let the bread soak for 
 an hour, and bake in a moderate oveni Time, 
 about three-quarters of an hour to bake. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 NIGHTCAP. 
 
 Simmer half a pint of ale, and when on the 
 point of boiling pour it out; grate one-eighth 
 of a nutmeg into it, and add a tea-spoonful of 
 moist sugar, and two table-spoonfuls of brandy. 
 Drink the nightcap the last thing before getting 
 into Tied. Time, five minutes to heat the ale. 
 Sufficient for one person. 
 
 NONESUCH PUDDING. 
 
 Grate the rind of a large fresh lemon upon 
 three ounces of loaf sugar; crush the latter to 
 powder, and mix it with four ounces of dried 
 flour. Beat a quarter of a pound of fresh butter 
 to a cream. Add gradually and smoothly the 
 sugar and flour, two ounces of raisins, stoned 
 and chopped small, and five eggs well-beaten. 
 Mix thoroughly, and pour the pudding into a 
 buttered mould; plunge it into boiling water, 
 turn it out before serving, and send some good 
 custard or wine sauce to table with it. Time to 
 boil, two hours. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient 
 for three or four persons. 
 
 NORFOLK BIFFINS, DRIED. 
 
 The Norfolk beefing, or biffin, is the name 
 given to a hard, sweet apple well known in Nor- 
 folk, which is remarkable for being rosy coloured 
 both inside and out, and which is prepared by 
 being baked gently in the oven, flattened into 
 the form of a round cake, and so preserved. 
 Biffins may afterwards be stewed, like Normandy 
 pippins, or made into pies. They may be pur- 
 
NOR 
 
 449 
 
 NOU 
 
 chased ready dried, but if prepared at home 
 should be baked very gently, taken out every 
 now and then to cool, slightly flattened, and 
 then put into the oven again.- If great care is 
 not taken they wrill burst, and so be spoilt. 
 Probable cost, uncooked. Is. per pound. 
 
 NORFOLK DUMPLINGS. 
 
 Beat two eggs thoroughly. Add a cupful of 
 milk, a pinch of salt, and as much flour as will 
 make a stiff batter. Have ready a pan of fast- 
 boiling water. Drop the batter into it, in small 
 lumps, and when boiled enough, serve imme- 
 diately ; if allowed to stand, the dumplings will 
 become heavy. Time to boil, ten minutes. 
 Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 NORFOLK DUMPLINGS (another way). 
 
 When bread is made at home, take a little of 
 the dough just ready for the oven, make it up 
 into small balls about the size of an orange, drop 
 them into fast-boiling water, and when done 
 enough, drain them, and serve immediately. 
 Send melted butter, sweetened and flavoured 
 with lemon-juice, to table with them. The 
 dumplings should be torn apart with two forks 
 when they are eaten, or they will be heavy. To 
 ascertain if they are done enough, stick a fork 
 quickly into them; if it comes out clear, they 
 are sufficieijtly cooked. Time, about a quarter 
 of an hour. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient, one 
 pound of dough for about four people. 
 
 NORFOLK PUNCH. 
 
 Take the rind of sixteen fresh lemons and six- 
 teen Seville oranges, pared so thinly as to be 
 quite free from white. Put them into an 
 earthenware jar, pour over them two quarts of 
 brandy, and let them infuse for forty-eight 
 hours. Strain the brandy, mix with it a syrup 
 made by boiling two pounds of loaf sugar with 
 three quarts of water until quite clear. The 
 syrup must have become cold before it is added 
 to the brandy; add the strained and filtered 
 juice of the oranges and lemons ; mix thor- 
 oughly, put the liquor into a perfectly clean 
 spirit-cask, or into a jar; let it remain for six 
 weeks, when it may be bottled or not, as is most 
 convenient. This punch will improve with keep- 
 ing : some persons add a pint of new milk before 
 putting it into the cask. Probable cost, 3s. 6d., 
 exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for a gallon 
 and a half of punch. 
 
 NORMANDY PIPPINS, STEWED. 
 
 Take half a pound of Normandy pippins. Let 
 them soak for an hour or two in a pint and a 
 half of water in which has been put an inch of 
 whole ginger and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of 
 powdered cinnamon. At the end of that time 
 put them into a stewpan, with the thin rind of 
 a large lemon and two ounces of sugar, and let 
 them simmer gently until they are half done, 
 then add another two ounces of sugar. When 
 quite tender, take out the pippins, and place 
 them in a glass dish : strain the gravy, flavour it- 
 if wished either with a glass of port or the 
 strained juice of the lemon, pour it over the pip- 
 pins, and place a small piece of lemon-rind upon 
 each. Normandy pippins are delicious when 
 eaten with Devonshire cream, and the appear- 
 ance of the dish is improved if a small knob of 
 cream is placed between the apples. Time to 
 2d 
 
 stew, about three hours. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. 
 
 NORMANDY PIPPINS, STEWED (another way). 
 
 Take half a pound of pippins. Soak them as 
 in the last recipe ; or, if time is a consideration, 
 put them into a saucepan with as much cold 
 water as will cover them, let them simmer very 
 gently for twenty minutes, then drain the water 
 from them, and let them get cold. Put them 
 into a clean saucepan, with half a pint of water, 
 a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, the thin rind 
 and strained juice of a lemon, a Seville orange, a 
 St. Michael's orange, an inch of stick cinnamon, 
 two cloves, and a glass of sherry. Simmer very 
 gently until the pippins are quite tender but un- 
 broken. Take them out, put them in a glass 
 dish, boil the syrup quickly for ten minutes, 
 and strain it over the fruit. Devonshire cream, 
 or a little ordinary thick cream, is a great im- 
 provement to this dish. Serve cold. One or 
 two drops of prepared cochineal will improve 
 the colour. Time, about three hours to stew the 
 pippins. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 NORWEGIAN PUDDINGS. 
 
 Beat a quarter of a pound of fresh butter to a 
 cream, mix with it a quarter of a pound of 
 ground rice, one ounce oi fine fiour, a quarter of 
 a pound of powdered sugar, half a tea-spoonful 
 of baking-powder, and any flavouring that may 
 be preferred. Add two well-whisked eggs, and 
 beat all briskly together for four or five min- 
 utes. Butter some cups, three-parts fill them 
 with the mixture, and!^ bake in a quick oven. 
 Turn out the puddings when done enough, put 
 them on a dish, and pour over them half a pint 
 of good wine sauce, boiling hot. Sprinkle some 
 powdered sugar over them, and serve at once. 
 Time to bake, about half an hour. Probable 
 cost, .9d. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 NOTTINGHAM PUDDING. 
 
 Take half a dozen large apples of uniform 
 size. Pare and core without breaking them, 
 and fill the centre of each with a little butter, 
 some moist sugar, and grated nutmeg. Put 
 them side by side in a well-buttered pie-dish, 
 and cover them with a light batter made as 
 follows. Mix six table-spoonfuls of flour very 
 smoothly with a little cold water, add three wpll- 
 beaten eggs, a pinch of salt, and milk sufficient 
 to make the batter of the consistency of thick 
 cream. This will be about three-quarters of a 
 pint. Bake the pudding in a moderate oven. 
 The batter will be better if made an hour or two 
 before it is wanted. Time to bake, a hour and a 
 half. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for half a. 
 dozen persons. 
 
 NOTTINGHAM PUDDING (another way). 
 (liSce Apple Puddino, Nottingham.) 
 
 NOUGAT. 
 
 Nougat is a sort of paste made of sugar, 
 almonds, pistachio nuts, or filberts, and used by 
 confectioners for making pretty sweet dishes. 
 A little practice is necessary before it can be 
 well made. The process is as follows. Blanch 
 one pound of Jordan almonds, dry them well in 
 a soft cloth, cut them into quarters, put them 
 on a baking-sheet in a cool oven, and let them 
 
NOU 
 
 450 
 
 NOU 
 
 remain until quite hot through and lightly 
 browned. When they are nearly ready, put 
 half a pound of sifted sugar into a copper 
 pan, without any water; move it about with a 
 wooden spoon. When it is melted and begins to 
 bubble, stir in the hot almonds gently, so as 
 not to break them. Have ready the mould which 
 is to be used, slightly but thoroughly oiled, and 
 spread the paste all over it about a quarter of an 
 inch thick. This is the difficult part of the 
 operation, as the nougat hardens very quickly. 
 The pan in which it is should be kept in a warm 
 place, to prevent the contents stiffening before 
 the mould is finished. It is a good plan to 
 spread out a piece for the bottom of the mould 
 first, and put that in its place, then pieces for 
 the sides. Care must be taien, however, to maike 
 these pieces stick closely together. A cut lemon 
 dipped in oil is a great assistance in spreading 
 the paste. When the nougat is firmly set, turii 
 it out carefully, and serve it on a stand filled 
 with whipped cream, or as required. Time to 
 boil the sugar, till it is well melted. Probable 
 cost, 2s. for a good-sized mould. 
 
 NOUGAT, ALMOND. 
 
 (See At.mond Nougat.) 
 NOUGATS (a la Fran9aise;. 
 
 For dessert. Prepare the nougat as in the 
 last recipe. If preferred, pistachio kernels may 
 be used instead of almonds, and the sugar may 
 be coloured with cochineal, and flavoured -with 
 vanilla. When the paste is ready, spread it out 
 on an oiled slab to the thickness of a quarter 
 of an inch, strew coloured sugar or nonpareil 
 comfits on the surface, mark it into oblong 
 shapes, and cut it before it is cold. It should be 
 stored in a tin box in a dry place until wanted 
 for use, and should be served, piled up prettily, 
 on a napkin. 
 
 NOUGATS, SMALL. 
 
 Nougats intended for small moulds should be 
 made in the same way as for large ones, except 
 that the almonds should be finely snredded 
 instead of being quartered. When the paste is 
 ready, put it into the small oiled moulds, and 
 take care that it is pressed into all the corners. 
 It is well for three or four persons to be engaged- 
 at once in filling the moulds, that they may be 
 done as expeditiously as possible, and so be all 
 of one colour, as the nougat gets darker with 
 being melted. Turn the shapes out when set, 
 fill them with whipped cream, and serve, neatly 
 arranged, on a folded napkin. Probable cost, 
 Jordan almonds, 2s. 6d. per pound; sweet 
 almonds. Is. 
 
 NOUILLES. 
 
 Nouilles are made of delicate pastry, cut up 
 into ribands and various shapes, and used as a 
 substitute for vermicelli and macaroni, either in 
 making fritters or puddings, or for serving with 
 cheese, or in soup. They are made as follows. 
 Take half a pound of fine flour, put it on the 
 pastry-board, make a hole in the centre, and in 
 this put two eggs. Add a pinch of salt, half an 
 ounce of butter, and a tea-spoonful of cold 
 water, and mix all together into a very firm, 
 smooth paste. Leave it a little while to dry, 
 then roll it out as thin as possible, and cut it 
 into thin bands abput an inch and a quarter in 
 
 width. Dredge a little flour upon these, and lay- 
 four or five of them one above another, then cut 
 them through into thin shreds, something like 
 vermicelli; shake them well, to prevent their 
 sticking together, and spread them out to dry. 
 Nouilles cannot be made without a straight roll- 
 ing-pin and smooth pastry-board. When wanted 
 for xise, drop them gradually into boiling water, 
 stirring gently with a wooden spoon to keep 
 them from getting lumpy. Let them boil from 
 six to twenty minutes, then take them up with 
 a strainer, drain them well, and spread them 
 out on a coarse cloth. Besides thread-like nou- 
 illes, a few may be made the size and shape of 
 scarlet-runner beans, or small birds'-eggsy or 
 they may be cut broad like macaroni. If thor- 
 oughly dried, they will keep any length of time 
 stored in tin canisters. Probable cost, 3d. for 
 this quantity. 
 
 NOUILLES, BOILED IN MILK. . 
 
 Take three-quarters of a pound of freshly- 
 made nouilles cut very fine and dried. Dissolve 
 a little butter in a stewpan, put in the nouilles, 
 and shake the pan over the fire until they are 
 well browned. Pour over them as much good 
 milk as will cover them well, and let them sim- 
 mer gently until they are quite soft. Add two 
 table-spoonfuls of sugar and three well-beaten 
 eggs, steam a few minutes longer, and serve as 
 hot as possible. Time to boil tne nouilles, until 
 soft — from ten to fifteen minutes, Probable 
 cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 NOUILLES, BUTTERED. 
 
 Throw the nouilles into boiling water, and let 
 them boil for three minutes. Take them up with 
 a strainer, put them on a hot dish; melt some 
 fresh butter in a stewpan ; sprinkle a large 
 handful of bread-crumbs in it, and let them 
 remain until they are lightly browned, then put 
 them upon the nouilles. Clarify a little more 
 butter if the first portion was dried up in 
 browning the crumbs, and pour it over the 
 dish; serve very hot. Time, ten minutes to 
 boil the nouilles. 
 
 NOUILLES, FRITTERS OF (dericious eaten cold). 
 
 Make a pound of flour into nouilles pastry, as 
 already directed (?ee NouiiciEsl. Cut it into 
 thin strips; boil a pint and a hait of creaiji or 
 new milk in a saucepan. Dissolve in it six 
 ounces of fresh butter, add a quarter of a pound 
 of loaf sugar which has been well rubbed upon 
 the rind of a large fresh lemon, and a pinch of 
 salt. Drop the pastry into the boiling liquid, 
 and simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour, 
 until it has become a stiff paste. Take it from 
 the fire, and when it is cool stir briskly in with 
 it the well-beaten yolks of six eggs. Spread it 
 out on a large buttered baking-tin, about a 
 quarter of an inch'-thick, and bake in a mod- 
 erate oven ; when brightly coloured, take it out, 
 divide it in halves, put one half upon a large' 
 flat dish, spread some jam thickly over, place 
 the other half upon it, pressing it lightly with 
 the fingers, and when quite cold, stamp it in 
 small shapes with an ordinary pastry-cutter. 
 Serve neatly arranged on a napkin. These 
 cakes should be prepared the day they are 
 wanted for use, as they do not improve with 
 keeping. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Prob- 
 
NOU 
 
 451 
 
 NOY 
 
 able cost. Is. lOd., if simmered in milk. Suf- 
 ficient for eight or ten persons. 
 
 NOUILLES PUDDING. 
 
 Make some nouilles pastry as before directed. 
 Cut and dry the nouilles, throw them into boil- 
 ing water, and let them simmer until soft. Take 
 them up with a strainer, and stir into them, 
 while hot, two ounces of fresh butter ; beat 
 three ounces of butter to a cream, mix with it 
 the well-whisked yolks of three eggs, and add 
 this to the rest. Butter a pudding mould rather 
 thickly, cover the inside with bread raspings ; 
 whisk the whites of the eggs to a firm froth. 
 Gently stir them into the pudding, put it into 
 the mould, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 Time to bake, about half an hour. Probable 
 cost, 1b. Suflicient for four or five persons. 
 
 NOUILLES, ROLLED (a German recipe). 
 
 EoU out some nouilles pastry as thin as pos- 
 sible, then, instead of cutting it into threads as 
 before directed (see Nouilles), cut it into rounds 
 about the size of a crown-piece, sprinkle upon 
 each a little finely-minced ham, mixed with 
 parsley, and any seasoning that may be wished, 
 and roll it up. Put the rolls in a stewpan, pour 
 over them a little broth, and let them simmer 
 very gently for an hour. Probable cost, 6d. 
 Sufficienc for four or five persons. 
 
 NOUILLES, SOUP OF. 
 
 Make half a pound of flour into nouilles dough 
 as directed. Cut it into strips, and spread it on a 
 sheet of paper in a warm place to dry. Take 
 three pints of any nicely seasoned soup; put it 
 on the fire, and when it is boiling, drop the 
 nouilles gradually in with one hand, and with 
 the other stir them gently with a wooden spoon, 
 to keep them from getting into lumps. They 
 will swell considerably in the liquid. Serve as 
 hot as possible. Time to boil the nouilles, ten 
 minutes. Probable cost of nouilles, 3d. Suf- 
 ficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 NOUILLES TURNOVERS. 
 
 Nouilles turnovers are slightly similar to 
 nouilles rolls. Make the pastry rather softer 
 than usual by adding a little water, roll it out 
 very thin, cut it into pieces the shape of an egg, 
 about two inches across, and cover Iialf the 
 surface of each with a little fruit finely-minced, 
 sweetened, and flavoured, and mixed with a few 
 bread-crumbs. Turn the other halves over, 
 fasten the edges securely, put the turnovers 
 into a little boiling water, and let them simmer 
 gently until done enough. Drain them well, 
 and serve them on a hot dish with powdered 
 sugar sprinkled thickly over them. Time to 
 simmer, one hour. Probable cost, 8d. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 
 NOUILLES, WITH HAM. 
 
 Prepare some nouilles in the manner already 
 described. Simmer for six minutes, drain, 
 and dry them ; put them into a saucepan, 
 with a pint and a half of boiling gravy, one 
 ounce of fresh butter, three ounces of boiled 
 ham (fat and lean together cut into dice), and 
 two ounces of grated Parmesan, or, if preferred, 
 any other cheese which is not strong in flavour. 
 Mix lightly with a wooden spoon, taking care 
 . not to break the nouilles, add pepper and salt if 
 
 required, and serve in a hot vegetable dish, 
 accompanied by hot buttered toast, and a little 
 good mustard. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Suf- 
 ficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 NOUILLES, WITH PARMESAN, OR AU GRATIN. 
 
 Make half a pound of flour into nouilles paste, 
 as directed in preceding recipes. Cut it into 
 strips, and boil these for ten minutes in three 
 pints of water, slightly salted. Take them out, 
 drain them, and put them into a stewpan, with 
 a pint of milk or gravy, an ounce of butter, the 
 eighth of a nutmeg, grated, and a pinch of salt 
 and pepper. Simmer gently until all the liquid 
 has been absorbed, then add another quarter of 
 a pint of either cream or gravy, a quarter of a 
 pound of grated Parmesan, and another ounce 
 of butter ; shake the pan over the fire until the 
 cheese is melted. Pile the mixture high in a 
 buttered dish, sprinkle over it one ounce of 
 grated Parmesan, a table-spoonful of finely- 
 grated bread-crumbs, and the yolk of a hard- 
 boiled egg passed througli a sieve and powdered. 
 Place the dish in the oven for a few minutes, 
 or hold a red-hot iron shovel over it until it is 
 lightly coloured, and serve as hot as possible. 
 Time, altogether, an hour and a quarter. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient tor six or eight 
 persons. 
 
 NOYEAU. 
 
 Noyeau is a liqueur prepared in the island of 
 Martinique, in the. West Indies, from a berry 
 which grows there. It requires to be used with 
 great care, as it is not wholesome. Imitations 
 of it are very common, as the real article is rare 
 and expensive. Two or three recipes are here 
 given. 
 
 NOYEAU CREAM. 
 
 Dissolve one ounce of best Russian isinglass 
 in half a pint of water, add four ounces of loaf 
 sugar, the strained juice of a small lemon, and 
 one pint of thick cream, together with a little 
 noyeau. The quantity must be regulated by 
 the strength of the noyeau, as well as by taste. 
 Pour the liquid into a well-oiled mould, and put 
 it in a cool, dry place to-set. Turn it oul care- 
 fully before serving. Time, half an hour to 
 dissolve the isinglass. Probable cost, 3s., ex- 
 clusive of the noyeau. Sufficient for a quart 
 mould. 
 
 NOYEAU ICE CREAMS. 
 
 Sweeten half a pint of thick cream with two 
 ounces of sugar. Add a table-spoonful of 
 strained lemon-juice and a glass of noyeau. 
 Mix thoroughly, and freeze in the usual way. 
 Time, half an hour to freeze the mixture. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for a pint of ice 
 cream. 
 
 NOYEAU, IMITATION. 
 
 This is a liqueur with an agreeable nutty 
 taste. It should only be partaken of, however, 
 in small quantities in consequence of the con- 
 siderable proportion of prussic acid which it con- 
 tains. Take three ounces of bruised bitter 
 almonds, one quart of spirit, and a pound of 
 sugar dissolved in three-quarters of a pint of 
 ■water. Macerate for ten days, shaking the 
 vessel at frequent intervals ; at th& end of that 
 time let it rest for a few days] then decant the 
 
NOY 
 
 452 
 
 NUT 
 
 clear liquid. Apricots or peach-kernels, with 
 the shells bruised, may be substituted for the 
 almonds. 
 
 NOYEAU, IMITATION (another way, for immediate 
 use). 
 Gather a quarter of a jpound of young peach 
 leaves on a dry, sunny day. Put them into a 
 jar, and pour over them two pints of good 
 brandy or whisky, and leave thejn to infuse for 
 a couple of days. Add a syrup made by dis- 
 solving a pound of sugar in a pint of water. 
 Let the noyeau remain a few hours longer, then 
 filter it carefully, and it is ready for use. Prob- 
 able cost, uncertain, peach leaves being seldom 
 sold. Sufficient for three pints and a half of 
 noyeau. 
 
 NOYEAU (made with Honey). 
 
 Blanch and pound three ounces of bitter and 
 one of sweet almonds. Put them into a jar, 
 pour over them a quart of pure brandy or 
 whisky, and leave them to infuse for three days, 
 shaking them every now and then. Strain the 
 liquid carefully through filtering-paper, and add 
 one pound of loaf sugar dissolved in half a pint 
 of boiling water, and two table-spoonfuls of fine 
 honey. Bottle for use. Probable cost. Is., ex- 
 clusive of the spirit. Sufficient for three pints 
 of noyeau. 
 
 NOYEAU JELLY. 
 
 Dissolve one ounce of best Eussian isinglass 
 in half a pint of water. Add one pound of loaf 
 sugar boiled to a syrup in half a pint of water, 
 the strained juice of a lemon, and a glass of 
 noyeau. Strain the jelly iintil it is clear, pour 
 it into a damp mould, and put it into a cool 
 place to set. Turn it out on a glass dish just 
 before it is wanted. Time to clarify the isin- 
 glass, half an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of 
 the noyeau. Is. 8d. Sufficient for one pint and 
 a half of jelly. 
 
 NOYEAU JELLY, WITH ALIMONDS. 
 
 Prepare one pint and a half of jelly according 
 to the directions given in the last recipe. 
 Blanch two ounces of almonds, cut them into 
 thin shreds, and throw them into cold water. 
 "When the jelly is quite clear, put a little of it 
 at the bottom of a damp mould. Let it set, 
 then sprinkle half a tea-spoonful of the almonds 
 upon it, and pour a little more jelly on. Eepeat 
 until the mould is full. Put the mould in a 
 cool place, and turn the jelly out when quite 
 stiff A little whipped cream may be put 
 round it in the dish. Time, half an hour to 
 clarify the isinglass. Probable cost, 2s., exclu- 
 sive of the noyeau. Sufficient for a pint and 
 a half mould. 
 
 NUNS' BISCUITS. 
 
 Take four ounces of sweet almonds, and five 
 or six bitter ones. Blanch them, and pound 
 them in a mortar to a smooth paste, and keep 
 dropping a little orange-flower water on them 
 to prevent them oiling. Eub the yellow rind 
 of two large fresh lemons upon half a pound of 
 loaf sugar, crush the latter to powder," sift it 
 well, and mix it with the almonds; add two 
 ounces of dried flour, a table-spoonful of finely- 
 minced candied citron, the yolks of six eggs well 
 beaten, and last of all the whites whisked to a 
 
 firm froth. Put a spoonful or two of the mixture 
 into some small patty-pans well buttered, and 
 bake in a moderate oven. When they are 
 brightly browned, turn them out of the pans, 
 put them upon baking-tins, and place them 
 again in the oven to harden. Time to bake, 
 about twenty minutes. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 NUNS' CAKE. 
 
 Beat eight ounces of fresh butter to a cream ; 
 add half a pound of fine flour, a small nutmeg, 
 grated, eight ounces of powdered sugar, the 
 well-beaten yolks of four eggs, and a table- 
 spoonful of cold water. Mix thoroughly, then 
 stir in the whites of two of the eggs whisked 
 to a solid froth. Work all briskly together for 
 some minutes. Pour the mixture into a but- 
 tered mould, and, being careful to leave room 
 for it to rise, bake in a moderate oven for about 
 an hour. Probable cost. Is. 4d. Sufficient for 
 a quart mould. 
 
 NUREIMBERG EGG. 
 
 Put an egg in boiling water, and let it sim- 
 mer gently for ten minutes. Take it out, shell 
 it, and dip it in batter. Fry it in hot butter 
 itntil it is browned all over, then dip it in the 
 batter again, and repeat this until the ball is 
 the desired size. Serve on a hot dish, and pour 
 wine-sauce over it. Time, according to size. 
 
 NUREMBERG GINGERBREAD. 
 
 Beat four eggs thoroughly; mix with them 
 half a nutmeg, grated, six pounded cloves, two 
 ounces each of candied lemon and citron finely 
 minced, and eight ounces of powdered sugar. 
 Stir these briskly for ten minutes; then add 
 very gradually half a pound of dried flour, a 
 small pinch of salt, and one-eighth of an 
 ounce of carbonate of soda dissolved in a little 
 warm milk. When the ingredients are thor- 
 oughly blended, put with them eight ounces of 
 sweet almonds blanched and sliced. Spread the 
 mixture a quarter of an inch thick on wafer- 
 paper, cut it into fingers, place these on but- 
 tered tins, and bake in a very moderate oven. 
 Time, about half an hour to bake. Probable 
 cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 NUT CAKES, HAZEL. 
 
 (■See Hazel-nut Cakes.) 
 
 NUTMEG. 
 
 Nutmegs are .the seed of a small tree belong- 
 ing to the natural order Myristicaceae. In Great 
 Britain about 2,000 pounds are consumed 
 annually. Pereira mentions that to prevent the 
 attacks of an insect known as the nutmeg 
 insect the nuts are frequently limed. For the 
 English market, however, the brown or un- 
 limed nutmegs are preferred. " The Dutch lime 
 them by dipping them into a thick mixture of 
 lime and water ; but this process is considered to 
 injure their flavour. Others lime them by rub- 
 bing them with recently-prepared well-sifted 
 lime. This process is sometimes practised in 
 London." 
 
 NUTMEG, TINCTURE OF. 
 
 Grate three ounces of nutmeg; put the 
 powder into a quart bottle, and fill it up with 
 good brandy or spirits of wine. Cork it, and 
 shake it well every day for a fortnight, then 
 
NUT 
 
 453 
 
 OAT 
 
 pour off the liquid, leaving the sediment behind. 
 Put the tincture into small bottles, cork these 
 closely, and store for use. Probable cost, ac- 
 cording to the quality of the spirit. SuJB5cient, 
 three drops to flavour half a pmt of liquid. 
 
 NUTRITIVE DRINK. 
 
 Beat three eggs thoroughly; add a pint of 
 cold water, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, two 
 glasses of sherry, and the strained juice of a 
 fresh lemon. Time, a few minutes to prepare. 
 Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the wine. Suf- 
 ficient to fill two tumblers. 
 
 NUTRITIVE PROPERTIES OF FOOD. 
 
 (jSce Peopebtibs or Food, etc.) 
 
 NUTS, AMERICAN DOUGH. 
 
 (See BotTGH Ntjts, Ameeican.) 
 
 OAT-CAKE. 
 
 Oat-cakes, or oatmeal cakes, are very common 
 in Scotland and the North of England. Thej 
 are eaten with butter or cheese, either toasted or 
 plain. When first made they are quite soft, 
 but after they have been dried before the fire 
 for a few minutes they become crisp and hard. 
 When made in perfection they are as thin as 
 wafers, and are certainly very good eating, 
 though not of a very satisfying nature. They 
 are baked on a " bakestone," which is a kind of 
 thick frying-pan, made of iron or stone. Mix 
 two or three table-spoonfuls of oatmeal with a 
 pinch of salt and a little cold water. Knead it 
 well round and round with the hands for some 
 minutes, then spread it on a pastry-board as 
 thin as possible, and strew meal under and over 
 it. Move to the bakestone, and bake it on 
 both sides over a clear fire. It is well to mix 
 sufficient oatmeal and water for one cake at a 
 time, as the batter soon dries. Time, two or 
 three minutes to bake the cakes. Probable 
 cost, 3d. per dozen. 
 
 OAT-CAKE, LANCASHIRE. V 
 
 In Lancashire oat-cakes are partially made 
 either with buttermilk or with meal which has 
 been mixed and left for a few days to turn sour. 
 They are baked very much in the same way as 
 in the preceding recipe. It is necessary, how- 
 ever, to see these cakes made by some one ac- 
 customed to the work before attempting their 
 manufacture. 
 
 OAT-CAKE, MADE WITH YEAST. 
 
 Put a quart of water into a bowl, and mix 
 with it one ounce of dissolved German yeast. 
 Sprinkle three and a half pounds of fine oatmeal 
 into it, stirring it briskly all the time, and when 
 it is smooth and thick, stand the bowl in a warm 
 place, cover the mixture with a cloth, and leave 
 it half an hour to rise. Stir the paste well, 
 spread it out very thin, sprinkle a little oatmeal 
 under and over it, and throw it upon the bake- 
 stone, which should be placed over a bright fire : 
 when lightly browned on one side, turn it on the 
 other. The cakes may either be eaten soft, or 
 hung to crisp upon a cord which has been 
 stretched across the kitchen. While the cakes 
 are bakings the dust of the oatmeal should be 
 
 swept off with a small brush. Time to bake, 
 two minutes. Probable cost, 4d. per dozen. 
 
 OATMEAL. 
 
 Oats, in the form of oatmeal, are rich in 
 flesh-formers and heat-givers, and serve as a 
 nutritious and excellent diet when the occupa- 
 tion is not sedentary. The outer husk of oats, 
 unlike wheat, is poor in albumenoid matters, so 
 that oatmeal is better than the whole oat as 
 food. In makiiig oatmeal, one quarter of oats 
 (328 pounds) yields 188 pounds of meal and 
 74 pounds of husks, the rest being water. Oat- 
 meal is remarkable for its large amount of fat. 
 100 parts contain : — 
 
 Water 
 
 13-6 
 
 Albumenoid Matters 
 
 17-0 
 
 Starch .... 
 
 39-7 
 
 Sugar 
 
 5-4 
 
 Gum 
 
 30 
 
 Far 
 
 57 
 
 Fibre 
 
 12-6 
 
 Mineral Matter 
 
 3-0 
 
 Water 
 
 13-6 
 
 Flesh and Force Producers . 
 
 17-0 
 
 Force Producers . 
 
 66-4 
 
 Mineral Matters 
 
 30 
 
 Or, 
 
 "One pound .of oatmeal, when digested and 
 oxidised in the body, is capable of producing a 
 force equal to 2,439 tons raised one foot high. 
 The maximum of work which it will enable a 
 man to perform is 488 tons raised one foot high. 
 One pound of oatmeal can produce at the maxi- 
 mum 2f ounces of dry muscle or flesh." " Oat- 
 meal," Pereira remarks, "is an important and 
 valuable article of food. With the exception of 
 maize or Indian corn, it is richer in oily or fatty 
 matter than any other of the cultivated cereal 
 grains ; and its proportion of protein compounds 
 exceeds that of the finest English wheaten flour ; 
 so that, both in respect to its heat and fat 
 making and its flesh and blood making princi- 
 ples, it holds a high rank." Oatmeal is frequently 
 adulterated with barley-meal, the difference In 
 price between the two being a great inducement 
 to dishonest traders. In consequence of a pecu- 
 liar quality of the gluten which the oat con- 
 tains* oatmeal does not admit of being baked 
 into a light fermented bread. It has been 
 alleged again'st oatmeal, that when it is em- 
 ployed as the sole food, without milk or animal 
 diet, it causes heat and irritability of the skin, 
 aggravates skin diseases, and sometimes gives 
 rise to boils. Dr. Pereira, however, states that 
 this charge has been made without sufficient 
 grounds. At all events, it is very rarely that 
 circumstances render necessary for any length 
 of time such an exclusive consumption of oat- 
 meal. 
 
 OATMEAL AND ONION SOUP. 
 
 Peel and slice an onion of medium size, scald 
 and drain it, cut it into thin slices, and cook 
 them in an ounce of butter for half an hour, 
 shaking the pan occasionally. Add a pint of 
 stock made from bones or from a calf's foot, or 
 other gelatinous material ; let it boil, and add by 
 degrees a table-spoonful of coarse oatmeal. Sim- 
 mer for an hour and a half, then add a seasoning 
 of salt and pepper, and a heaped tea-spoonful of 
 
OAT 
 
 454 
 
 OKR 
 
 cornflour mixed to a paste with milk. Boil 
 again for ten minutes, thinning the soup, if 
 necessary, with more stock or hot milk. 
 
 OATMEAL BANNOCKS. 
 
 Rub half an ounce of fresh butter into two 
 and a half pounds of Scotch oatmeal, and stir 
 briskly in as much lukewarm water as will make 
 it into a «tiff paste. Sprinkle some oatmeal on 
 the pastry-board, and spread the mixture out 
 into a round cake, about half an inch thick 
 and four inches in diameter. Bake in a mode- 
 rate oven for olie hour. Sufficient for ten or 
 twelve persons. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 OATMEAL BISCUITS. 
 
 Mix well together two table-spoonfuls of oat- 
 meal, four table-spoonfuls of flour, a salt-spoon- 
 ful of salt, and a tea-spoonful of baking-powder, 
 then put in sufficient warm water to make a nice 
 light paste. Roll out very thin, cut into pieces 
 about two- inches long, and one wide, and bake 
 in a smart oven for five to seven minutes. 
 
 OATMEAL GRUEL. 
 
 Mix a table-spoonful of oatmeal very smoothly 
 with a littlfe cold water. Pour upon it a pint of 
 boiling water, stir it well, then let it stand for 
 a few minutes to settle. Pour it back very 
 gently into the saucepan, so as to leave undis- 
 turbed the sediment at the bottom of the gruel. 
 Let it simmer, stirring occasionally and skim- 
 ming it carefully. It may be sweetened and 
 flavoured with wine and spice, or be mixed with 
 a little beer and grated ginger, or, if preferred, 
 a little salt only may be put in. Dry toast or 
 biscuits may be served with it. Time, a quarter 
 of an hour to simmer. Probable cost. Id. Suf- 
 ficient for one person. 
 
 OATMEAL HASTY PUDDING. 
 
 Mix a table-9poonful of flour, a table-spoonful 
 of oatmeal, and a pinch of salt smoothly with 
 four table-spoonfuls of cold milk. Stir these 
 gradually into a pint of boiling milk, and beat 
 the mixture with a fork until it is quite smooth 
 alhd free from lumps. Let it boil quickly for 
 four or five minutes, pour it on small plates, 
 and serve hot. Send cream and sugar, or 
 treacle, to table in a tureen. When the Scotch 
 or coarse oatmeal is used, it should be soaked 
 all night in a little cold water, then added 
 gradually to the boiling milk, dnd beaten as 
 above. If preferred the flour may be omitted 
 altogether, and oatmeal only may be used. 
 Time to boil the pudding, twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for two persons. 
 
 OATMEAL MUFFINS. 
 
 Take a cupful of cooked oatmeal (cold por- 
 ridge that is thoroughly well-boiled and rather 
 dry will do for this purpose), beat it well 
 with a cupful of milk, added gradually. 
 Stir into it a salt-spoonful of salt, two table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar, a pint of flour that has been 
 well mixed with two tea-spoonfuls of baking- 
 powder, and a lightly-beaten egg. Add more 
 milk if necessary; a moderately thick batter is 
 required. Last of all, stir in a table-spoonful 
 of butter, melted; beat for half a minute, and 
 bake immediately in well-greased pans or muffin- 
 rings in a hot oven for half an hour. These 
 muffins are to be eaten hot, and are delicious. 
 
 OATMEAL PORRIDGE. 
 
 Put some water into a saucepan on the fire. 
 Let it boil quickly, then throw in a pinch of 
 salt. Sprinkle some oatmeal into the boiling 
 water with the left hand, and at the same time 
 beat it briskly with a fork held in the right to 
 keep it from getting into lumps. When the 
 porridge is sufficiently thick, draw the pan back 
 a little, put on the lid, and simmer gently till 
 wanted, or for about twenty minutes. Treacle, 
 cream, milk, sugar, or butter may be eaten with 
 it. The quantity of oatmeal will depend upon 
 the taste of those who are to eat the porridge. 
 Some people like it very thick, and others quite 
 thin. Probable cost. Id. per plateful. (See 
 
 POBBIDGE, OATMKiJi.) 
 OATMEAL PUDDING. 
 
 Put a tea^cupful of coarse oatmeal to soak in 
 a pint of boiling milk until the mixture is quite 
 cold. Keep it covered, add a pinch of salt, a 
 beaten egg, and a table-spoonful or more of 
 sugar or honey. Bake in a slow oven for an 
 hour and a half. Grate a little nutmeg over the 
 top, and serve. Another way is to cook the 
 oatmeal and milk, after soaking, in a double 
 pan for a couple of hours, adding the egg ten 
 minutes before its removal. Then serve with 
 stewed fruit, jam, etc. > 
 
 OIL. 
 
 
 
 Under this name, and closely resembling but- 
 
 ter, fat, lard, suet, and grease, we 
 
 have a sub- 
 
 stance which is largely made use 
 
 of as food. 
 
 The following table shows the quantities of oil 
 
 or fat in 100 pounds of the more common articles 
 
 of food: — 
 
 
 Vegetable Food. 
 
 
 Potatoes .... 
 
 . 0-2 
 
 Wheat Flour . 
 
 
 . 1-2 
 
 Barley Meal . 
 
 
 . 0-3 
 
 Oatmeal 
 
 
 . 5-7 
 
 Indian Meal . 
 
 
 . 7-7 
 
 Rye ... . 
 
 
 . 10 
 
 Peas .... 
 
 
 . 20 
 
 Rice .... 
 
 
 . 0-7 
 
 Beans .... 
 
 
 . 20 
 
 Cocoa .... 
 
 
 . 500 
 
 Lentils .... 
 
 
 . 20 
 
 Buckwheat 
 
 
 . 1-0 
 
 Tea .... 
 
 
 . 4-0 
 
 Coffee .... 
 
 
 . 120 
 
 Animal Food. 
 
 
 
 Milk .... 
 
 
 . 23-5 
 
 Pork .... 
 
 
 . 50-0 
 
 Veal .... 
 
 
 . 160 
 
 Beef .... 
 
 
 . . 30-0 
 
 Mutton .... 
 
 
 . 40-0 
 
 Pish .... 
 
 
 . 70 
 
 Cheese .... 
 
 
 . 250 
 
 OKRA, OR GUMBO. 
 
 Okra is the fruit of a West Indian plant, 
 which is now obtainable in this country in tins. 
 It is greenish in colour, and contains seeds not 
 unlike pearl barley in appearance. By some it 
 is disliked on account of its peculiar flavour, 
 while others regard it as a great delicacy. To 
 serve it as a vegetable, turn the contents of a 
 tin into a lined saucepan, add a little seasoning, 
 and boil. A flavour of tomatoes is considered 
 a great improvement; the pulp of the fresh 
 
OLI 
 
 455 
 
 OLI 
 
 fruit, or tomato conserve or sauce, may be used, 
 according to taste. Probable cost, Is. per tin'. 
 
 OLIO. 
 
 An olio is a Spanish dish, and consists of three 
 or four different kinds of meat and xe^etables 
 stewed and served together. The following is a 
 simple recipe. Truss a chicken for boiling, 
 brown it lightly in a little hot butter, then 
 drain it, and put it into a saucepan with a 
 pound and a half of mutton, a pound and a half 
 of veal, and a pound of good rump-steak, all 
 Slightly browned. Add a pound of streaky 
 bacon, and pour in as much boiling water as 
 will cover the whole. Simmer gently for an 
 hour, then add half a head of celery, a bunch of 
 parsley, a dozen young onions, half a dozen car- 
 rots and turnips, and a pint of grSen peas, if 
 they are in season, and boil gently until the 
 vegetables are cooked enough. Salt and pepper 
 must be added as required, and a small clove of 
 garlic, if the flavour is liked. It is better to 
 take out the bacon before the meat is served. 
 Time, two hours. Probable cost, 7s. Sufficient 
 for twelve persons. 
 
 OLIO OF VEGETABLES. 
 
 Slice half a dozen, carrots, turnips, and onions, 
 and throw them into boiling- water slightly 
 salted. Let them boil a quarter of an hour, 
 then put with them two heads of cabbage cut 
 into halves, and two pouiids of potatoes, and 
 boil all together until they are soft. Drain 
 them from the water, and mince them finely. 
 Mix with them half a pound of spjnach, a little 
 salt and pepper, an ounce and a half of fresh 
 butter, and a quarter of a pint of cream. Cover 
 the saucepan ' closely, ana stew the vegetables 
 gently for half an hour. Before serving, thicken 
 them by stirring in with them a piece of butter 
 rolled in flour. The vegetables may be varied 
 according to the season. Green peas; lettuces, 
 cucumber, spring oniouS', spinach, etc., may be 
 cooked in the same way. Probable cost, ac- 
 cording to the vegetables used. Sufficient for 
 six or eight persons. 
 
 OLIVE CROUTONS. 
 
 Cut some neat rounds of bread' and fry them 
 in butter. Sptead on each a layer of Italian 
 sausage, and pile on the top some chopped 
 oliv«s.. Ornament with butter. Serve cold. 
 
 OLIVE OIL. 
 
 The principal oil used as food, obtained from 
 the vegetable .kingdom, is that of the olive. 
 Lucca oil is the most esteemed. • Florencfe oil is 
 the Virgin oil expressed from the ripe fruit soon 
 after being gathered ;, it is imported in' flasks 
 surrounded by a kind of network, formed by the 
 leaves of a moriocotyledonous plant, and pabked 
 in half chests ; it is that most commonly used' at 
 table under the name of salad oil. 
 
 OLIVE PIE, BEEF. 
 
 Make a good forcemeat of equal ^arts of suet 
 and finely-grated bread-crumbs,' with plenty of 
 finely-minced parsley, a little pepper, salt, and 
 grated nutmeg, and the well-beaten yolk- of ar^ 
 egg. rCut thin slices four inches long and two 
 wide from'-the inside of a fillet of beef. Spread a 
 layer of thtf forcemeat upon each slice, and roll 
 it up securely. Place the rolls side by side in a 
 
 deep pie-dish, and pile them high in the centre. 
 Pour half a pint of gravy over them, line the 
 edges of the dish with good crust, place a cover 
 of the same on the top, and bake in a moderate 
 oven. If it is wished the forcemeat can be 
 omitted, and a small piece of fat put inside the 
 rolls instead ; the meat will then require season- 
 ing with pepper and salt. A table-spoonful of 
 ketchup and a table-spoonful of wine will im- 
 prove the gra'vy, Time, about an hour and a 
 quarter to bakfe the pie. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. 
 Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 OLIVE PIE, VEAL. 
 
 .Line the edges of a pie-dish with good puff- 
 paste. Cut two pounds of the fillet of veal into 
 tiiin slices a quarter of an inch thick, four inches 
 long, and two wide. Make a forcemeat with 
 four ' ounces of minced veal, four ounces of 
 finely-shredded suet, four ounces of grated 
 bread-crumbs, three table-spoonfuls of chopped 
 parsley, a tea-,spoonful of mixed swget hqrbs, 
 a tea-spoonful of salt, a salt-spoonful each of 
 pepper, powdered mace, and grated lemon- 
 rind, and the Well-beaten yolks of two eggs. 
 Season the slices of veal with a little pepper and 
 salt, place a slice of fat bacon upon each, and a 
 little of the forcemeat, and roll them up neatly 
 and securely. Make the forcemeat which re- 
 mains into balls. Place these amongst the de- 
 sired number of olives in a pie-dish, pour half a 
 pint of nicely-seaSoned gravy over them, line the 
 edges' of the dish with a good crust, place a cover 
 of the same over the: top, brush -the pie with 
 beaten egg, and, bake in a good oven. The 
 addition of a table-spoonful of lemon-juice and 
 a glass of shetty,' or a few sliced mushrooms, 
 would greatly improve, the gravy. This pie is 
 good either cold or hot. Time,- an hour and a 
 half to bake. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. 
 OLIVE PUDDING. 
 
 Olives are not used in this pudding as an in- 
 gredient; the- name* being given, as stated 
 below, only because preserved fruits with the 
 appearance of olives are med. 
 
 Mik one cupful of finely chopped beef suet 
 with two cupfuls of bread-crumbs, one cupful 
 of brown sugar, one cupful of stoned raisins, 
 one cupful of currants, ' half a cupful of sliced 
 candied peel, a tea-spoonful of cinnamon, 
 and half a grated mitmeg. Add four wfell- 
 beateh eggs, one cupful of milk, and one cupful 
 of flour sifted With two tea-spoonfuls of baking- 
 pOwdet. Mix, and steam for folir hotirs. Be- 
 fore sending to table, hollow a cavity in the top 
 and fill with custard. Heap whipped cream on 
 this, and garnish with green preserved fruits.' 
 These green fruits are 'fco be found in boxes of 
 preserved fruit, and have the appearance of 
 olives, hence the name given to the pudding. 
 Slices of citron can also be 'tiSed if desired, or 
 rings of angelica. Probable dost. Is. 'to Is. 6d. 
 
 OLIVES. 
 
 Olives are the' fruit of the olive-tree, and are 
 imported to this country from Prance, Spain, 
 and Italy. The Italian olives are the most 
 highly-esteemed. They are used for dessert, or' 
 handed round between the courses as a whet to 
 the appetite, and-also to clear the palate. Choose 
 
OLI 
 
 45u 
 
 OME 
 
 >,hem green and firm, and if they are too salt 
 let them soak for a little while in cold water. 
 Olives should never be allowed to remain un- 
 covered in the bottle, or their appearance will 
 be spoilt. 
 OLIVES (^ la Reine). 
 
 Boil two pounds of mealy potatoes, and mix 
 them very smoothly with six ounces of fine 
 flour and two ounces of fresh butter. KoU the 
 paste out, and stamp it into rounds a quarter 
 of an inch thick and four inches in diameter. 
 Put a small piece of cold roast beef or veal 
 in the middle of each round, moisten the edges 
 with a little cold water, and draw the paste up 
 into a ball. Pry the olives in hot fat until they 
 are lightly browned all over, drain the fat from 
 them, and serve on a hot dish. Send good 
 brown gravy to table in a tureen. Time, about 
 five minutes to fry the olives. Sufficient for six 
 persons. Probable cost, 38. 6d. 
 
 OLIVE SAUCE, FOR DUCKS, FOWLS, BEEF- 
 STEAKS, ETC. 
 
 Take four ounces of fine olives. Remove the 
 stones by cutting the fruit round and round in 
 ribbons, in the same way that apples are pared. 
 By this means they will be the same shape when 
 done that they were at first. Throw them into 
 boiling water for three or four minutes, then 
 drain them, and put them into cold water to 
 soak until the salt taste is extracted. Drain 
 them, and simmer them gently in three-quarters 
 of a pint of good brown gravy. Serve very hot. 
 A cut lemon should be sent to table with this 
 sauce, so that a little of the juice may be 
 squeezed in if the addition' is approved. Time 
 to simmer, half an hour. Probable cost. Is. 
 Sufficient for eight or nine persons. 
 
 OLIVES, BEEF. 
 
 Cut a couple of pounds of rump-steak into 
 very thin slices, about four inches long and two 
 inches broad. Have ready a nice forcemeat 
 made of bread-crumbs, suet, parsley, herbs, 
 egg, and plenty of pepper and salt. Put a little 
 forcemeat on each piece of steak, roll it up 
 tightly, fasten it with a small skewer or piece 
 of string, dip the rolls into egg and bread- 
 crumbs, and fry them in hot fat until they are 
 slightly browned. Drain the fat away, and sttw 
 them for about half an hour in a pint or rather 
 less of stock. If the stock is very poor, a 
 quarter of a pound of gravy beef will be re- 
 quired. Just before serving, thicken the gravy 
 with a little flour, and add some ketchup, or 
 three dessert-spoonfuls of sherry or port. Time, 
 five minutes to fry. Sufficient for six persons. 
 Cost, 3b. 
 OLIVES, BEEF (another way). 
 
 (See Bbef Olives.) 
 OLIVES, DUCK WITH. 
 
 (See DrrcK, with Olivisb.) 
 
 OLIVES, PRESERVING OF. 
 
 Olives intended for preservation are gathered 
 before they are ripe. The object of pickling 
 them is to remove their bitterness and preserve 
 them green by impregnating them with brine. 
 To effect this various plans are adopted. The 
 fruit being gathered is placed in a lye com- 
 posed of one part of quicklime to six of ashes 
 
 of young wood sifted. It is left for half a day, 
 and is then put into fresh water, which is re- 
 newed every twenty-four hours. From this the 
 fruit is transferred to a brine of common salt 
 dissolved in water, to which some aromatic 
 herbs have been added. Olives will in this 
 manner keep good for twelve months. 
 
 OLIVES, STUFFED. 
 
 With a small sharp knife make a cut length- 
 wise and crosswise in the olive, and take out 
 the stone. Put in the place of the stone a fillet 
 of anchovy dipped in mayonnaise sauce and 
 rolled up, or a small ball of anchovy paste. 
 Pile on a small dish, and serve as a hors d'oeuvre. 
 
 OLIVES, VEAL. 
 
 Proceed as for beef olives, substituting veal 
 for beef. Place a thin slice of fat bacon or 
 ham, of the same size and shape as the veal 
 made with olives, roll them up securely, brush 
 them over with egg, dip them in bread-crumbs, 
 roast them on a lark-spit, and serve on a hot 
 dish with brown gravy and mushrooms poured 
 over them. Instead of being roasted, they may 
 be stewed in a pint of veal stock, thickened with 
 butter and flour, and garnished with beetroot 
 or cucumber. Time, three-quarters of an hour 
 to roast; one hour to stew. Probable cost, 
 3s. 6d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. 
 
 OLIVES, WITH FOIE GRAS. 
 
 Take some croutons and spread them over 
 with pate de foie gras; put on each a blanched 
 olive, from which the stone has been removed 
 and the cavity filled with pate de foie gras. 
 Decorate the edges of the croutons and top of 
 the olives with maitre d'hotel butter, made by 
 beating together an ounce of butter, two tea- 
 spoonfuls of parsley, and four drops of lemon- 
 juice. 
 
 OLLA PODRIDA. 
 
 This is a Spanish national dish, consisting of 
 several kinds of meat cut into small pieces and 
 stewed with a variety of vegetables. It is much 
 in favour with the poor, and is often kept so 
 long that its odour and flavour both become 
 highly offensive, hence its name — oUa podrida 
 signifying putrid mess. (See also Olio.) 
 
 OMELET. 
 
 An omelet is a simple, wholesome, inexpeU' 
 sive dish, but yet one in the preparation of 
 which cooks frequently fail, owing to ignorance 
 of three or four important details. The flavour- 
 ing may be varied indefinitely, but the process 
 is always the same. In making an omelet care 
 should be taken, first, that the frying-pan is 
 quite dry and hot. The best way to ensure this 
 is to put a small quantity of fat into the pan, 
 let it boil, then pour it away, wipe the pan out 
 with a cloth, and put in fresh fat. Second, the 
 fat in which the omelet is to be fried should be 
 very gently heated. Unless this is done, the 
 fat will be browned, and the colour of the ome- 
 let will be spoilt. Third, the number of eggs 
 should not be large. It is better to make two 
 or three small omelets than one Very large one. 
 The best omelets are made with no more than 
 six eggs. Fourth, the omelet-pan should not 
 be washed; it should be scraped and wiped dry 
 with a cloth. If washed it is probable that the 
 
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 457 
 
 OME 
 
 next omelet fried in it will be a failure. Fifth, 
 a very small quantity only of salt should be put 
 in. Salt keeps the eggs from rising. As to the 
 method of preparation, see Omelet, Plain; 
 and PMNciPiiES or Cookebt, pp. vii. and viii. 
 
 OMELET (k la Celestlne). 
 
 Mix two eggs very smoothly with two ounces 
 of dried flour. Add a small pinch of salt, two 
 table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and half a 
 pint of good milk. Dissolve an ounce of butter 
 in a hot frying-pan, pour in two table-spoonfuls 
 of the batter, and let it spread all over the pan. 
 When firm, put a tea-spoonful of good jam and 
 a dessert-spoonful of rich cu-stard in the middle 
 of the omelet, fold it over, and roll it round and 
 round. Arrange the omelets neatly on a hot 
 dish, sift a little powdered sugar over them, 
 and serve immediately. These omelets are 
 sometimes made with beaten egg and sugar 
 only. Time, three or four minutes to fry. Prob- 
 able cost, 8d. Suflicientfor three or four persons. 
 
 OMELET (aux Fines Herbes). 
 
 Break six eggs into a basin. '' Beat them 
 lightly, and mix with them a small pinch of salt 
 and pepper, a heaped tea-spoonful of finely- 
 chopped parsley, and half a tea-spoonful of 
 minced onions, cloves, or shallots. Dissolve 
 two-ounces of fresh butter in a hot frying-pan, 
 over a gentle fire. Pour in the mixture, and 
 proceed as already described. Omelets may be 
 extensively varied. A little minced ham, or 
 cooked vegetables, or fish sauce, or jam, may be 
 put in eitiier with the eggs or placed in their 
 centre when they are partially cooked, and the 
 omelet should then be named after the peculiar 
 flavouring. Time to fry, four or five minutes. 
 Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for two or three 
 persons. 
 
 OMELET, COOKING AN. 
 
 " Where is the mari or woman cook," re- 
 marks M. Soyer, " but say they know how to 
 make an omelet, and that -to perfection ? But 
 this is rarely the case. It is related of Sarah, 
 the Duchess of Marlborough, that no one could 
 cook a ' fraise,' as it was then called, for the 
 giteat duke but herself. The great point is, if 
 in an iron pan, it should be very clean and free 
 from damp, which sometimes comes out of the 
 iron when placed on the fire. The best plan is 
 to put it on the fire with a little fat, and let it 
 get quite hot, or until the fat burns ; remove it, 
 and wipe it clean with a dry cloth, and then you 
 will make the omelet to perfection." 
 
 OMELET, INDIAN. 
 
 Break six eggs into a basin. Beat them 
 lightly, then flavour them with a table-spoon- 
 ful of young mint-leaves, finely-minced, and half 
 a table-spoonful of either chopped onions, 
 cloves or leeks. Add half a salt-spoonful of salt, 
 a salt-spoonful of cayenne, and a table-spoonful 
 of cream. Pry the omelet in the usual way, 
 being careful to keep it well together, so that it 
 may be as thick as possible. Time to fry, six 
 minutes. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for three 
 persons. 
 
 OMELET, ONION. 
 
 Cut a large Spanish onion into dice, and fry 
 these in a little hot butter until they are tender 
 
 without being browned. Drain them from the 
 fat, and mix with them half a dozen eggs 
 lightly beaten. Add a pinch of salt, two 
 pinches of pepper, and a small portion of grated 
 nutmejp, and fry the omelet according to the 
 directions already given. White sauce may be 
 served with this dish. Time, five or six minutes 
 to fry the omelet. Probable cost, 9d. Suf- 
 ficient for three persons. 
 
 OMELET-PAN. 
 
 (See illustration accompanying the article. 
 Bacon ob Ham Omelet.) 
 
 OMELET, PLAIN. 
 
 The following recipe is by the often-quoted 
 M. Soyer. " Break four eggs into a basin, add 
 half a tea-spoonful of salt, and a quarter of a 
 tea-spoonful of pepper, and beat them well up 
 with a fork. Put into the frying-pan an ounce 
 and a half of butter, lard, or oil ; place it on the 
 fire, and when hot pour in the eggs, and keep 
 on mixing them qtiickly with a spoon till they 
 are delicately set; then let them slip to the 
 edge of the pan, laying hold by the handle, and 
 raising it slantwise, which will give an elon- 
 gated form to the omelet; turn in the edges, let 
 it rest a moment to set, turn it over on a dish, 
 and serve. It ought to be of a rich yellow 
 colour, done to a nicety, and as light and 
 delicate as possible. Two table-spoonfuls of 
 milk, and one ounce of the crumb of bread, cut 
 into thin slices, may be added." 
 
 OMELET, POTATOES. 
 
 Mash two ounces of mealy potatoes, and mix 
 with them four fresh eggs, lightly beaten, a 
 table-spoonful of powdered sugar, half a small 
 nutmeg, grated, the strained juice of a large 
 lemon, half a pint of new milk, and two ounces 
 of fresh butter. Beat the mixture thoroughly 
 for ten minutes, then fry it over a gentle fire in 
 the usual way. Sift powdered sugar over before 
 serving. Time, about eight minutes to fry. 
 Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for three persons. 
 
 OMELET, SAVOURY. 
 
 Beat and strain four eggs ; add to them a tea- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley, half a tea-spoonful 
 of chopped onion, and a sprinkling of pepper 
 and salt, and beat up again, ^ut two ounces 
 of butter in a small round irying-pau, and let it 
 melt, then pour in the eggs and seasoning, and 
 stir the mixture over a moderate fire till the 
 omelet is set. Turn it on to a hot dish, fold it 
 in two, and serve immediately. 
 
 OMELET SOUFFLE. 
 
 An omelet souffle should be served in the same 
 dish in which it is baked, and should be sent to 
 table with the greatest expedition after it is 
 taken out of the oven, as it falls and grows 
 heavy very quickly. Break half a dozen fresh 
 eggs into separate bowls. Whisk four of the 
 yolks, and mix with them a tea-spoonful of dry 
 flour, three table-spoonfuls of finely-powdered 
 sugar, a small pinch of salt, and any flavouring 
 that may be preferred, such as grated nutmeg, 
 lemon- or orange-rind, vanilla, etc. Butter the 
 souffle-pan, to keep the omelet from sticking to 
 it, whisk the whites of the six eggs to a firm 
 froth, mix them lightly with the yolks, pour 
 the mixture into the pan, and bake in a quick 
 
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 458 
 
 ONI 
 
 oven. When it is well risen and brightly 
 browned on the top, the omelet is done enough. 
 Sift a little sugar over it very expeditiously, and 
 serve. Some cooks put a hot flannel round the 
 pan to prevent its cooling on the way^to the 
 dining-room. Time to bake, a quarter of an 
 hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for two or 
 three persons. 
 
 OMELET SOUFFLE, MOULDED. 
 
 Take four fresh eggs, and break the yolks and 
 whites into separate basins. Beat the yolks 
 well, and mix with them two table-spoonfuls of 
 powdered sugar, a small pinch of salt, three 
 macaroons fiuely-crumBled, a tea-spoonful , of 
 finely-minced candied peel, and a dessert-spoon- 
 fiil of arrowroot. When these ingredients are 
 thoroughly and smoothly mixed, add the whites 
 of the eggs beaten to a firm froth. Pour the 
 mixture into a well-buttered, simply-marked 
 mould, which should be so large that the omelet 
 will ho more than half fill it, and bake in a 
 moderate oven. When the soufa.e is set and 
 lightly browned it is done enough. Turn it out, 
 sift powdered sugar over it, and serve as ex- 
 peditiously as possible. Time to bake, a 
 quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Suf- 
 ficient for two or three persons. 
 
 OMELET, SWEET. 
 
 Put a table-spoonful of orange-flower water, 
 or sherry and sugar, 9n the fire, let it boil three 
 minutes, then put into a basin to cool. When 
 cool add the yolks of three eggs, and beat to a 
 cream. Put a pinch of salt to the whites, and 
 iVhip them to a stiff froth, then stir them in 
 lightly to the yolks. Melt half an ounce of 
 butter in an omelet-pan, and pour in the mix- 
 ture; put this on the fire for two minutes, and 
 then into a very hot oven for three or four 
 minutes. Make a dessert-spoonful of jam quite 
 hot, place the omelet on a hot dish, spread on 
 the jam lightly and quickly, fold over, sprinkle 
 a little castor sugar on it, and serve 
 
 OMELET, WITH CHEESE, 
 
 Prepare the eggs as for a plain omelet. Mix 
 with them two ounces of finely-grated Parmesan 
 cheese, a small pinch of salt, and two pinches of 
 pepper. Fry the omelet in the usual way, and 
 before folding it over strew upon it an ounce of 
 Gruyere cheese finely-minced. Fold, arid >s^rve 
 immediately. Time, four or five minutes to 
 fry. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for three 
 persons. ' 
 
 OMELET, WITH CHEESE, BAKED. 
 
 Beat two eggs lightly, and mix with them a 
 smair pinch of salt, two pinches of pepper, three 
 table-spoonfuls of new milk or cream, and two 
 ounces of grated Parmesan. Pour the mixture 
 into a buttered plate, bake in a quick oven, and 
 serve immediately. Time to bake, fifteen 
 minutes. Probable cost, 4d. or 5d. Sufficient 
 for two persons. 
 
 OMELET, WITH GRAVY. . 
 
 Whisk half a dozen fresh eggs thoroughly, and 
 mix with them a small pinch of salt, two pinches 
 of pepper, a table-spoonful of finely-minced 
 parsley, half a tea-spoonful of chopped onions, 
 and two table-spoonfuls of nicely-seasoned 
 gravy. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in 
 
 a hot frying-pan over a gentle fire, and fry the 
 
 omelet in it in the usual way, Serve it on a hot 
 
 dish with half a pint of good gravy poured 
 
 round it. Time to fry, six or seven minutes. 
 
 Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for three or four 
 
 persons. 
 
 OMELET, WITH WINE. 
 
 Whisk two eggs very lightly, add a pinch 
 of salt, and again whip to a cream. Melt halt 
 an ounce of butter in the omelet pan. and 
 when boiling pour in the mixture. Let this 
 stiffen over the fire, and cook in the usual 
 way. Dust over with powdered sugar, fold 
 quickly, and place on a very hot plate. Sprinkle 
 a, little castor sugar over, then pour over a 
 table-spoonful of sherry. Serve at once, if 
 Kirsch is used instead of sherry, it is usual 
 to set this alight just before serving. Eemem- 
 ber to make the omelet-pan hot before putting 
 in the butter for frying, as this makes a world 
 of difference to the omelet itself. Cost, about Is. 
 
 ONION. 
 
 This well-known vegetable may be regarded 
 either as a condiment or as an article of real 
 nourishment. By boiling it is deprived of much 
 of its pungent, volatile oil, and becomes agree- 
 able, mild, and nutritious. It is not so whole- 
 some either fried or roasted. There is no vege- 
 table about which there is so much diversity of 
 opinion as there is about the onion, some per- 
 sons liking a little of it in every dish, and 
 others objecting to it entirely. Generally 
 speaking, however, a slight flavouring of onion 
 is' ah improvement to the majority of made 
 dishes, but it should not be too strong. The 
 smell which arises from the esculent during 
 cooking, and the unpleasant odour it imparts 
 to the breath of those who partake of it, are the 
 principal objections which are urged against it. 
 The latter may be partially remedied by eating 
 a little raw parsley after it. When onions are 
 used for stuffing, the unpleasant properties be- 
 longing to them would be considerably lessened 
 if a lemon, freed from the outer rind but 
 covered as thickly as possible with the white 
 skin, were put in the midst of them, and thrown 
 away when the dish is ready for the table. 
 Onions may be rendered much milder if two or 
 three waters are used in boiling them. Spanish 
 oniona are not so strong as English ones, and 
 are generally considered superior in flavour. The 
 largest are the best. Onions, as well as garlic, 
 shallots, chives, and leeks, contain a principle 
 called allyl, to which they owe their peculiar 
 flavour. When young, the onion is eaten raw. 
 and it is also pickled, and made into a sauce by 
 boiling, in which process much of the allyl is 
 got rid of. The onion contains a good deal 
 of nourishment, and is said to act as a stimu- 
 lant to the stomach when eaten raw, if it can 
 be digested, but it is found to produce unpleas- 
 ant symptoms in some instances, though it 
 seldoin gives trouble when cooked. It grows 
 to a ^reat size in the south of Europe, and 
 whefl imported into this country is boiled and 
 .eaten with melted butter. 
 
 ONION AND EGGS. 
 
 Wash and peel a large Spanish onion. Cut it 
 into slices about a quarter of an inch in thick- 
 
ONI 
 
 459 
 
 ONI 
 
 Bess, strew a little s^lt and pepper over these, 
 and fry them in hot butter until they are 
 tender, without being browned. Take the 
 pieces up with an egg-slicer to preserve them 
 whole, drain well from the fat, and place them 
 on a hot dish. Squeeze the juice of two large 
 fresh lemons upon them. Have ready four 
 poached eggs; place these on the onions, and 
 serve imine&ately. Time, twenty minutes alto- 
 gether. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for two 
 or three persons. ' 
 
 ONION AND SAGE GOOSE STUFFING. 
 
 (See Goose Stuffing, Sage-and-Onion.) 
 
 ONION AND SAGE STUFFING FOR GOOSE, 
 . DUCK, OR PORK. 
 
 Wash, peel, and parboil three large onions. 
 If a strong flavour of onions is liked, the boiling 
 can be omitted, and the onions used raw ; if it 
 is objected to, they may be boiled in one or 
 two waters. Drain the onions, mince them 
 finely, and mix wdth them an equal quantity 
 of bread-crumbs, an ounce of butter, a small 
 tea-spoonful of powdered sage, a tea-spoonful of 
 salt, and half a tea,-spoonful of pepper. Mix all 
 the ingredients thoroughly. The yolk of an 
 egg is sometimes added, but it is oftener 
 omitted. Spanish onions are always to be pre- 
 ferred to the ordinary ones for stuffing. Time 
 to boil the onions, twenty minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, 6d. Sufficient for half a dozen 
 persons. 
 
 ONION,, CHOPS STEWED WITH. 
 
 (See Chops, Stewed, with Onion.) 
 
 ONION, FORCEMEAT OF. ' 
 
 (a^ee, Eobcemeat of Onion.) 
 ONION GRAVY. 
 
 (See Gbayy, Onion.) 
 
 ONION OMELET. 
 
 (Set, Omelet, Onion.) 
 
 ONION PORRIDGE (a country remedy for a cold 
 
 in the head). 
 ,, Peel a large Spanish onion, divide it into four, 
 and put it into a saucepan with half a salt- 
 spoonful of salt, two ounces of butter, and a 
 pint of cold water. Let it simmer gently-until 
 it is quite tender, then pour it into a heated 
 bowl, dredge a little pepper over it, and eat it 
 as hot as possible just before going to bed. 
 Time to boil the onion, about half an hour. 
 Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for one person. 
 
 ONION, POTATOES MASHED WITH. 
 
 (See Potatoes Mashed with Onion.) 
 ONIONS (k la Crenie). 
 
 Peel four medium.'Sized Spanish onions, and 
 boil them in water slightly salted until they are 
 sufficiently cooked. Drain them on a sieve, and 
 put them into a stewpan with three ounces of 
 butter rubbed smoothly with' a table-spoonful of 
 flour, and a little salt and white pepper. Shake 
 the pan constantly, and stir in by degrees half 
 a pint of cream or new milk. ' Serve the onions 
 on toasted bread, with the sauce poured over. 
 Sufficient' for four or five persons. Time, one 
 hour to boil the onions,! quarter of an hour to 
 stew them. Cost, with cream. Is. 7d. ; with 
 ■ milk, lid. 
 
 ONIONS AND CUCUMBERS. 
 
 Peel the desired number of cucumbers, and 
 cut them in quarters. Take out all the seeds, 
 y cut each quarter into three pieces, and pare 
 ' them round. Peel as many small onions as you 
 have pieces of cucumber; put them all to soak 
 for two hours in vinegar and water (equal quan- 
 tities), and some pepper and salt; then pour off 
 the liquor, add as much stock as will barely 
 cover them, boil down to a glaze, add the juice 
 of a lemon, and a little sugar. This may be 
 served as a dish by itself or as an accompani- 
 ment to cutlets. 
 
 ONIONS AND EGGS. 
 
 (See Eggs and Onions.) 
 
 ONION SAUCE. 
 
 White onion sauces are generally served with 
 boiled rabbits, roast mutton, and tripe, or, when 
 superlatively made, with lamb and mutton cut- 
 lets. The brown sauces are excellent with 
 steaks, cutlets, sausages, etc. 
 
 ONION SAUCE, BROWN. 
 
 Peel and mince two moderate-sized Spanish 
 onions very finely. Fry them in two ounces of 
 dissolved butter until they are lightly browned. 
 Add half a pint of brown gravy inixed smoothly 
 with a dessert-spoonful of flour, and a little 
 pepper and salt. Stir the sauce over the fire for 
 a few minutes, and serve as hot as possible. 
 Time, six or eight minutes to boil. Probable 
 cost, 6d. Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 ONION SAUCE, BROWN (another way). 
 
 Peel two large onions, and cut away the ends. 
 Divide them into thin slices, and lay them in 
 salted water for an hour. Drain them, and fry 
 them in a little butter until they are lightly 
 browned. Pour over them half a pint of good 
 brown sauce, and let them simmer until tender. 
 Add a little more sauce if required. Press them 
 through a sieve. Return the puree to the sauce- 
 pan, add an ounce of butter and a table-spoon- 
 ful of glaze, simmer five or six minutes, and 
 serve very hot. A tea-spoonful of dry mustard 
 is sometimes mixed with the above sauce. Time, 
 altogether, two hours. Probable cost, 8d. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 
 ONION SAUCE, BROWN, PIQUANT. 
 
 Fry the onions as in the last recipe. When 
 they are quite tender, pour over them half a 
 pint of gravy mixed smoothly with a table- 
 spoonful of flour, add pepper and salt, if re- 
 quired, a lump of sugar, a dessert-spoonful of 
 tarragon vinegar, and a glass of sherry. Stir 
 the sauce over a gentle fire for ten minutes, pass 
 it through a strainer, and serve as hot as possi- 
 ble. A tea-spoonful of dry mustard is some- 
 times mixed with the above sauce. Probable 
 cost, exclusive of the wine, 6d. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 
 ONION SAUCE, GERMAN. 
 
 Peel three or four large dnions. Cut them 
 into small pieces, and boil them until tender in 
 as much good stock as will cover them. Stir in 
 with them, whilst boiling, a tea-spoonful of 
 caraway-seeds. Mix two ounces of flour 
 smoothly with two ounces of butter and a little 
 of the hot liquid ; add it to the rest, season with 
 
ONI 
 
 4(50 
 
 ONI 
 
 pepper and salt, simmer gently over the fire for 
 ten minutes, and serve very hot. Time, one 
 hour. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. 
 
 ONION SAUCE, WHITE. 
 
 Take two Spanish onions or four large ordin- 
 ary ones. Peel them, slice off the ends, and 
 simmer them until tender in as much cold water 
 as will coTer them. Drain the water from 
 them, mince them finely, and put them into a 
 saucepan with a pint of milk mixed smoothly 
 with two ounces of flour and two ounces of fresh 
 butter, a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. 
 Stir the sauce over the fire for ten or fifteen 
 minutes, and serve it as hot as possible. Time, 
 about an hour and a half. Probable cost, 8d. 
 Sufiicient for six persona. 
 
 ONION SAUCE, WHITE, COMMON. 
 
 Boil the onions until tender. Mix with them 
 half a pint of melted butter ; add a quarter of a 
 pint of new milk, and a little salt and pepper. 
 Stir the sauce over the fire until it boils, and 
 serve as hot as possible. Time, three-quarters 
 of an hour. Probabl* cost, 4d. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 
 ONION SAUCE, YOUNG. 
 
 Peel half a pint of medium-sized button- 
 onions, and throw them into cold water for half 
 an hour. Boil them until they are tender with- 
 out being broken, then stir them into half a pint 
 of melted butter ; add a little salt, pepper, 
 grated nutmeg, and two table-spoonfuls of thick 
 cream. Serve very hot. Time, about half an 
 hour to boil the onions. Probable cost, 8d. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 ONIONS (au Gratin). 
 
 Slice some Spanish onions into a fireproof 
 baking-dish, well-greased ; add a layer of crumbs 
 and a Uttle pepper and salt, then another layer 
 of onions, and so on until the dish is full. 
 Place some dabs of butter on top, and cook in 
 the ovem for about an hour and a half, or until 
 the onions are quite soft and brown. Grate 
 some cheese over, return to the oven for a few 
 minutes., and serve. ^ 
 
 ONIONSp BAKED (to be served with Roast Mutton, etc.). 
 Peel three or four medium-sized Spanish 
 onions, and boil them in salted water for a 
 quarter of an hour, then throw them into cold 
 water for half an hour. Drain them well, cut 
 them into slices half an inch in thickness, place 
 them in a single layer in a well-buttered tin, 
 and bake them in a quick oven, basting them 
 occasionally with butter, until they are tender 
 and lightly browned. Serve on a hot dish. 
 Prcbable cost, 6d. Sufficient' for six or seven 
 persons. 
 
 ONIONS, BROWN, FOR GARNISHING STEWS. 
 
 Cut the two ends from some small silver 
 onions, and throw them into boiling water for 
 five minutes. Drain them on an inverted sieve, 
 and when cool take off the outer skins, and put 
 them into a well-buttered saute-pan, with a 
 little butter and sugar, and fry them (turning 
 them over once) until they are lightly browned 
 all over. Drain them well, and, ten minutes 
 before they are used, put them into the stew 
 which they are intended to garnish. Time, 
 
 about ten minutes to broiyn the onions. Prob- 
 able cost, 3d. per pound. Sufficient, one pound 
 for a dish large enough for five or six persons. 
 ONIONS, BURNT, FOR SOUPS AND GRAVIES. 
 
 Burnt onions for colouring and flavouring 
 soups and gravies may be bought at most Italian 
 warehouses for about 8d. per pound. A liquid 
 answering very much the same purpose, though 
 slightly acid, may be prepared at home and 
 stored for use. It should be made as follows. 
 Mince a pound of onions very finely, and put 
 them into an enamelled saucepan with a pint 
 of boiUug water, place them upon the fire, and 
 let them remain for four or five minutes. Add 
 a pound of sugar, and simmer until the syrup 
 is nearly black. Strain it into a pint of boiling 
 vinegar, stir briskly for a minute or two, and 
 when cold bottle for use. Time, one hour. 
 Probable cost, 6d. per pint. 
 ONIONS, COLOURED, FOR SOUP FLAVOURING. 
 
 Put into an oven half a dozen large onions 
 on a tin dish, with equal quantities of butter 
 and sugar (previously well mixed together) on 
 the top of each. As the mixture dissolves, baste 
 the onions frequently with it ; they must not 
 get dry, but they should be black through, yet 
 not burnt. A slow oven is required. For impart- 
 ing a flavour and colour to soups black onions 
 are very valuable. Probable cost, IJd. per pound. 
 
 ONIONS FOR SEASONING SAUCES AND MADE 
 DISHES. 
 
 Mince three or four onions very finely. Put 
 them into a saucepan, cover them with cold 
 water, and let them boil until quite tender. 
 Press them with their liquid through a hair 
 sieve, when they are ready for use. Time, half 
 an hour. Probable cost, 2d. 
 
 ONIONS, FRIED. 
 
 Put three ounces of butter in a frying-pan. 
 Peel some Spanish onions, and cut them as 
 thinly as possible into rings, put them in the 
 pan, turn and shake them about until they are 
 of a nice brown colour and quite soft, which 
 will be in about half an hour; sprinkle a little 
 sauce over, and serve very hot. 
 
 ONIQNS, GLAZED, FOR GARNISHING BEEF, ETC. 
 
 Take a dozen freshly-gathered large-sized 
 onions, cut a thin slice off each end, and throw 
 them into boiling water for a quarter of an 
 hour. Take off the outer skin, scoop a small 
 piece out of the middle of each onion, and put 
 a quarter of a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar 
 into the empty spaces thus formed. Put two or 
 three slices of butter in a stewpan. Arrange 
 the onions aide by side in it, and place it on the 
 fire, turning the onions two or three times that 
 they may be equally coloured all over. When 
 nicely browned, moisten them with half a pint 
 of good strong stock, cover the saucepan closely, 
 and simmer very gently until the sauce is re- 
 duced to glaze. Baste the onions frequently 
 whilst the sauce is simmering, and keep them 
 warm until wanted for use. Time, one hour. 
 Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient to garnish a 
 moderate-sized piece of beef. 
 
 ONIONS, HOW AND WHERE TO KEEP. 
 
 Onions should be fastened upon ropes, and 
 hung from the ceiling of a cool, airy apartment. 
 
ONI 
 
 461 
 
 ONI 
 
 They should not be hung in the storeroom, on 
 account of their unpleasant odour. 
 ONION SOUBISE SAUCE. 
 
 {See. SouBiSE Sauce.) 
 ONION SOUP. 
 
 Peel half a dozen Spanish onions, and mince 
 them very finely. Pry them in a little fresh 
 butter until they are tender without being 
 browned. Pour over them about three pints of 
 nicely-seasoned stock, add a little cayenne, salt, 
 and pepper, and simmer gently for twenty 
 minutes. Press the soup through a Eair-sieve, 
 and return it to the saucepan. Grate the 
 crumb of a stale loaf into half a pint of boiling 
 milk or cream; stir this into the soup, and serve 
 very hot. Time, eight or ten minutes to fry 
 the onions. Probable cost, onions, l^d. each. 
 Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 ONION SOUP (another way). 
 
 Peel and slice a dozen moderate-sized onions, 
 and put them into a stewpan, with three pints 
 of boiling stock (the liquid in which a leg of 
 mutton has been boiled will answer very well 
 for the purpose), two ounces of lean ham, finely 
 minced, a large carrot, a large turnip, a small 
 parsnip, a few of the outside sticks of a head of 
 celery, a bunch of sweet herbs, a quarter of an 
 ounce of white pepper, and a little salt. Sim- 
 mer gently for one hour and a half, then press 
 the soup with the vegetables through a hair- 
 sieve, and when cold mix in the yolks of three 
 well-beaten eggs, and half a pint of new milk. 
 The soup may be stirred over the fire until 
 quite hot, but it must not boil after the eggs 
 and milk are added. If liked, this soup may be 
 thickened with a table-spoonful of ground rice. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost. 
 Is., exclusive of the stock. 
 
 ONION SOUP, BROWN. 
 
 Take about two dozen small silver onions — 
 such as would be used for pickling — peel them 
 carefully, sprinkle a little sugar on them, and 
 fry them till nicely browned in a little hot 
 -butter. Pour over them two pints of clear 
 brown gravy soup nicely seasoned and strongly 
 flavoured with onions. Let all boil up together, 
 and serve very hot. If preferred, this soup may 
 be thickened by stirring into it a table-spoonful 
 of ground rice or flour mixed smoothly with a 
 small quantity of cold water. Time, about ten 
 minutes to brown the onions. Probable cost. 
 Is. 6d. Sufficient for 'four or five persons. 
 
 ONION SOUP, IMAIGRE. 
 
 Mince half a dozen medium-sized onions very 
 finely. Put them into a stewpan over a gentle 
 fire with three ounces of dissolved butter, dredge 
 a little flour over them, and move them about 
 until they are tender and lightly browned. Add 
 two pints of boiling water, and a seasoning of 
 salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Beat two 
 eggs briskly for a minute or two, boil the soup, 
 let it cool half a minute, then stir it in amongst 
 the eggs, and serve immediately. Time, half 
 an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. 
 
 ONIONS, PICKLED. 
 
 Onions, like all other pickles, are considered 
 more wholesome, though less handsome, when 
 
 prepared at home, than when bought at the 
 warehouses. Home-made pickled onions are be- 
 sides quite as expensive! The small silver 
 onions are generally used for pickling, and 
 should be obtained as soon as possible after they 
 are harvested, as they are then in the best con- 
 dition. This will be about the middle of 
 August. Peel the onions until they look clear, 
 being careful not to cut the bulb. If a little 
 warm water be poured over them the task will 
 not be quite so disagreeable. Throw them as 
 they are peeled into a bowl of white-wine vine- 
 gar, and when they are all finished strain the 
 vinegar into an enamelled stewpan, with an 
 ounce of whole peppercorns, a dessert-spoonful 
 of salt, and an inch of whole ginger to each 
 quart. Boil gently for five minutes, let the 
 liquid cool, and pour it over the onions. It 
 must be boiled again twice before the onions 
 are fastened up, and should be sufficient to cover 
 them entirely. Put the pickle into jars, cork 
 securely, and cover them with bladder, then 
 store for use. If it is preferred, instead of boil- 
 ing the vinegar three times, the onions may be 
 thrown into it when boiling, and simmered 
 gently for two minutes. Probable cost, onions. 
 Is. or Is. 6d. per gallon. 
 
 ONIONS, PICKLED (another way). 
 
 Prepare the onions as in the last recipe, but 
 instead of throwing them when peeled into 
 vinegar, throw them into brine sufficiently 
 strong to bear an egg. Let them remain in this 
 until the next day, then drain them, and lay 
 them between two cloths to dry. Boil as much 
 vinegar as will cover them, with half a tea- 
 spoonful of coriander-seed, an inch of whole 
 ginger, and an ounce of peppercorns to each 
 quart. After the liquid has reached the boiling 
 point, let it simmer gently for three minutes, 
 and pour it out to cool. Put the onions into 
 jars, divide the spices amongst them, and cover 
 them entirely with the cooled vinegar. Cork 
 securely, and cover the corks with bladder. 
 Store for use. This pickle should not be used 
 until it has been kept a month. Probable cost, 
 onions. Is. to Is. 6d. per gallon. 
 
 ONIONS, PICKLED (an easy method). 
 
 Peel the onions according to the directions 
 already given. ((See the last recipe but one). 
 Put them as they are done into wide-mouthed 
 glass bottles or earthen jars, place layers of 
 spice amongst them, allowing an ounce of whole 
 pepper, a tea-spoonful of mustard-seed, and a 
 quarter of a tea-spoonful of coriander-seed to 
 each quart of onions. Cover them with cold 
 vinegar, and cork securely. As the vinegar is 
 absorbed by the onions more should be added, 
 so as to keep them well covered. Store in a 
 cool, dry place. Probable cost of onions. Is. to 
 Is. 6d. per gallon. 
 
 ONIONS, PICKLED, WITH CUCUMBERS. 
 
 Take a moderate-sized onion with three cucum- 
 bers. Peel and slice them, and remove the 
 seeds out of the cucumbers. Put the slices in a 
 colander. Sprinkle salt over them, and leave 
 them twenty-four hours to drain, then place 
 them in a large earthen jar, and pour over them 
 sufficient boiling vinegar to cover them. Tie 
 a bladder over them, and place the jar near the 
 
ONI 
 
 462 
 
 ONI 
 
 fire. Boil up the vinegar every day, pour it 
 upon the pickle, and cover the jar instantly, 
 so that none of the steam may escape. Eepeat 
 this until the cucumbers are green; and add an 
 ounce of whole pepper to every quart of vinegar 
 the last time of boiling. Store in a cool, dry 
 place. The vinegar of this pickle is excellent 
 for salads. Time^ four or five day^. Probable 
 cost of onions, IJd. each ; cucumbers. Is. 
 
 ONIONS, PLAIN, BOILED. 
 
 Peel half a dozen medium-sized Spanish 
 onions, and boil them gently for five or six 
 minutes in a little salt and water. Drain them 
 on a sieve, and throw them into cold water for 
 an hour. , Put them into a saucepan with plenty 
 of cold water, and let them simmer gently until 
 they are tender quite through, without being 
 broken. Serve on a hot dish, with a little 
 melted butter poured over them. Time, 
 medium-sized Spanish onions, an hour and a 
 half to boil. Probable cost, IJd. each. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 ONIONS, SLICED AND FRIED. 
 
 Onions, cut into thin slices, fried in a little 
 hot butter until they are browned, without be- 
 ing burnt, then mixed with flour, and after- 
 wards pressed through a fine sieve, are excel- 
 lent for flavouriu,g and colouring brown soups 
 and sauces. 
 
 ONIONS, SPANISH, AND BEETROOT TO PICKLE. 
 
 Take equal quantities of Spanish onions and 
 beetroot. Slice the onions, and lay them in 
 brine for twenty-four hours, then drain them 
 well. Wash the beetroots gently ; if the skin or 
 fibres are broken the colour will be spoilt. Boil 
 them for an hour, and leave them also until the 
 next day. Peel the roots, and cut them into 
 slices. Place alternate layers of beetroot and 
 onion in wide-mouthed earthen jars, pour over 
 them vinegar which has been boiled with spices 
 and allowed to cool. Cover with bladder, and 
 store for use. Two or three drops of cochineal 
 will improve the colour of this pickle, and will 
 not harm it. Beetroot, time to boil, one hour. 
 
 ONIONS, SPANISH, BAKED. 
 
 Wash and trim, without peeling, half a dozen 
 Spanish onions of medium size. Put them into 
 a saucepan, cover them with water slightly 
 salted, and let them simmer very gently for 
 about an hour. Take them up, drain them, 
 wrap each onion in a separate piece of paper, 
 put them into a moderate oven, and let them 
 remain until quite tender. Before dishing them, 
 remove the skins, sprinkle a little pepper and 
 salt over them, and pour half a pint of good 
 gravy into the dish with them. Time to bake, 
 about an hour and a half. Probable cost, 8d. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 ONIONS, SPANISH, PICKLED. 
 
 Take some moderate-sized and perfectly 
 sound Spanish onions, cut them into slices, and 
 put them for twenty-four hours in a brine suf- 
 ficiently strong to float an egg. Drain them 
 well, lay them in a. wide-mouthed earthen jar, 
 and put a sliced capsicum, four cloves, and an 
 ounce of whole pepper with every three onions. 
 Nearly fill the jar with vinegar, place the lid 
 on it, and set it in a large pan of cold water. 
 
 Place this upon the fire, and simmer gently until 
 the onions are soft. Add a little more vinegar, 
 if required; cover the jar closely, and store the 
 pickle in a cool, dry place. Time, an hour and 
 a half to simmer. Probable cost of onions, 
 l^d. each. 
 
 ONIONS, STEWED. 
 
 Peel and trim half a dozen Spanish onions of 
 medium size, but be careful not to cut the tops 
 too short, or the bulbs will fall to pieces whilst 
 stewing. Blanch them in boiling water for a 
 minute or two, then drain them, and put them 
 side by side in a saucepan sufiiciently large to 
 hold them all in one layer. Sprinkle a little 
 salt and pepper over them, and place upon each 
 onion half an ounce of butter, mixed smoothly 
 with half a tea-spoonful of powdered ?ugar. 
 Place them over a gentle fire, and let them re- 
 main until lightly browned,' then cover with 
 good brown gravy, and simmer them until 
 tender. Serve as hot as possible on toast, with 
 the gravy poured r9und them. If liked, the 
 gravy may be flavoured with tomato-saiice, or 
 with a finely-minced gherkin and a glass of 
 claret. A pleasing variety, too, may be secured 
 by taking out the middle of each onion, stuffing 
 it with nicely-seasoned forcemeat, and then 
 stewing in gravy as before. Time to stew the 
 onions, about an hour and a half. Probable 
 cost of onions, l^d. each. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. 
 
 ONIONS, ' STUFFED. 
 
 Take three moderate-sized Spanish onions. 
 Peel and trim tljem neatly, but be careful iiot to 
 cut off too much of the tops, for fear the onions 
 fall to pieces. Scoop out the hearts of the 
 onions, mince them finely, and mix with them 
 four ounces of lean beef or pork and one ounce 
 of fat bacon (chopped small), a table-spoonful 
 of chopped parsley, three table-spoonfuls of 
 grated bread-crumbs, two ounces ■ of butter, a 
 little salt and cayenne, and the yolk of an egg 
 well beaten. Stuff the onions with the meat, 
 and put them into a saucepan side by side, and 
 with them half a pint of g<ood gravy, {wo apples, • 
 p^ared, cored, and chopped small. Stew the 
 onions until they are perfectly tender, and turn 
 them over once or twice, so that they may be 
 thoroughly cooked all through. 'Thicken the 
 sauce with a little flour and butter, add pepper 
 and salt and a table-spoonful of brandy, and 
 serve tie onions on a hot dish with the gravy 
 poured round them. If the acid flavour is 
 liked, the strained juice of a large ft'esh lemon 
 m.ay be poured over the onions a few minutes 
 before they are taken off the fire. Time, three 
 hours to stew the onions. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 Sufficient for three persons. 
 
 ONIONS, STUFFED (another way). 
 
 Prepare three or four large Spanish onions as 
 in the last recipe. Scoop out the centres, 
 making a hole fully an inch' and a half across. 
 Put in each one a mutton kidney, and place the 
 onions side by side in a saucepan. Sprinkle a 
 little salt and cayenne over them, and pour 
 upon them half a pint of good brown" gravy. 
 Place the pan over a gentle fire, and let it 
 remain until the onions are quite tender. Serve 
 as hot as possible. Time to simpler the onions. 
 
ONI 
 
 463 
 
 ORA 
 
 two and a half or three hours. Probable cost. 
 Is. 6d. Sufficient for three persona. 
 
 ONIONS, STUFFED AND BAKED. 
 
 Peel two large Spanish onipnsj partly , boil 
 them, and leave them on a sieve to drain until 
 nearly cold. Then cut the onions an inch and a 
 half across the top, and scoop out the centre. 
 Have ready a stuffing made with one ounce of 
 finely-grated Parmesan or Cheshire cheese, the 
 yolks of two hard-boiled eggs minced very 
 finely, one ounce of butter, three ounces of 
 bread-crumbs, one salt-spoonful of salt, and 
 Kalf that quantity of pepper. Mix all well to- 
 gether with a spoonful, or two of milk. Fill up 
 bhe onions with the forcemeat, brush them over 
 with egg and bread-crumbs, and bake them 
 until nicely browned. Serve on a hot dish, with 
 brown grav/ poured over them. Time, half an 
 bour to boil the onions; three-quarters of an 
 hour to bake. Probable cost, IQd. Sufficient 
 for four persons. 
 
 ONION STUFFING FOR CHICKEN. 
 
 Beat the yolk of an egg thoroughly; and mix 
 with it a table-spoonful of hot vinegar, half a 
 salt-spoonful of powdered thyme, and as much 
 finely-minced parsley as will make it quite thick. 
 Boil a large Spanish onion in three or four 
 waters until it is tender, press it well, mince 
 it finely, and mix i^ with the vinegar, etc. Add 
 two ounces of boiled pickled pork put up into 
 small pieces, and a little pepper and salt. A 
 chicken which has been filled with this stuffing 
 should be braised and served with white sauce: 
 Time, one hour to boil the onion. Probable 
 cost, 4d. Sufficient for one chicken. 
 
 ONIONS, WHITE, FOR GARNISHING STEWED 
 CHICKEN OR VEAL. 
 
 Take a dozen freshly-gathered silver onions of 
 a moderate size, cut a thin slice off each end, 
 and blanch them in boiling water for a ^quarter 
 of an hour. Drain them well, dry them in a 
 cloth, take off the outer skins ; put them into a 
 stewpau with a salt-:spoonful of salt, a sal1> 
 spoonful of sugar, and as much water as will 
 cover them. Let them simmer gently until they 
 are tender, without being at all broken. Drain 
 them, and, a few minutes before they are 
 served, put them into the stew which they are 
 intended to garnish. Time, about three- 
 quarters of an hour to simmer. Probable cost 
 of onions, 3d. Sufficient for a dish of veal for 
 three or four persons. 
 
 ONIONS, WITH BEEF STEAK, ETC. 
 
 Take two large Spanish onions ; remove a 
 thin piece off each end, and peel off the outer 
 skins ; cut them into slices; a quarter of an inch 
 thick. Place an ounce, of butter or good drip- 
 ping in a saucepan, let it melt, then put with it 
 a pound of steak, divided into pieces a little 
 thinner than for broiling. Brown these in the 
 butter, add a little pepper and salt, the sliced 
 onions, three ounces more of butter, but no 
 liquid; cover the saucepan closely, and simmer 
 as gently as possible till done. Arrange the 
 steak neatly in the centre of a hot dish; boil up 
 the onion gravy sauce with a table-spoonful of 
 walnut ketchup,' pour it over the meat, and 
 serve immediately. Chickens or rabbits are 
 sometimes cooked in the same way. Time, 
 
 about an hour and a half. Probable cost, Is. 6d. 
 Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 ONIONS, WITH GRATED CHEESE (a German 
 recipe). 
 Wash and peel three or four large sound 
 onions, cut them into slices fully half an inch 
 thick, and place them side by 'side in a single 
 layer in a well-buttered baking-dish. Sprinkle 
 a little pepper and salt over' them, place them 
 in a quick oven, and let them remain until 
 tender ; strew each piece of onion thickly with 
 grated cheese, and return the dish again to the 
 oven for a few minutes until the cheese has dis- 
 solved. Lift the slices carefully upon a hot 
 dish, and serve immediately. A little mustard 
 should be eaten with them. Time, half an hour 
 to bake. Probable cost, 7(i. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. 
 
 ORANGE. 
 
 Oranges come into season at the beginning of 
 winter, but they can rarely be obtained suf- 
 ficiently sweet to be agreeable before, Christjjias. 
 The St. Michael and Malta oranges are the inost 
 commonly used. They appear early, and last 
 allthe season. The Tangerine oranges are very 
 small, but sweet, and delicious in flavour. The 
 rind has a very peculiar taste. They come into 
 the market later than the others, and are soon 
 over. The Seville orange does not appear until 
 the end of February, and is chiefly used for 
 making marmalade and wine. There are sup- 
 posed to be nearly a hundred varieties of 
 oranges in Italy. The orange as a dessert fruit 
 is deservedly popular. The varieties' most in 
 favoiir for this purpose are the China, Portugal, 
 and Maltese. The orange is also employed in 
 confectionery, not only when ripe," but when 
 green and not larger than a pea. It assists in 
 the formation of several liqueurs and conserves, 
 either alone or combined with sugars, wines, or 
 spirits, and either the pulp, or skin, or both, 
 are used for these purposes. In cooking 
 it is employed to arpmatise a numbeir of 
 dishes. 
 
 ORANGEADE. 
 
 Make a syrup by boiling six ounces of loaf 
 sugar in half a pint of water until the sugar is 
 dissolved. Pour it over the thin yellow rinds of 
 two small oranges, and let thein infuse for two 
 or three hours. Strain the juice of six oranges 
 into a g'lass jug. Add the flavoured syrup, first 
 passing it through a jelly-bag] and a pint and a 
 half of cold water. Let it get cold. A glassful 
 of calf's foot stock is an improvement. Time, 
 two. or three hours to infuse the rinds. Prob- 
 able cost, 8d. Sufficient for two pints and a 
 half. 
 ORANGEADE (for keeping). 
 
 Pour a pint of brandy, or rectified spirits of 
 wine, over the thin rind and strained juice of 
 two oranges. Cover ' the infusion closely, and 
 leave in a warm place for six weeks, shaking it 
 every day. At the end of that time filter it 
 through muslin, and put it into small bottles. 
 Cork these closely, and store them until wanted. 
 When orangeade is required, it is only neces- 
 sary to dissolve a small lump of sugar in haH a 
 pint of spring water, and add a dessert-spoonful 
 of the orange-flavoured spirit. Probable cost. 
 
ORA 
 
 461 
 
 ORA 
 
 2d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for a 
 pint of orangeade. 
 
 ORANGE AND ALMOND ICE. 
 
 {Sie Almond and Oeanoe Ice.) 
 
 ORANGE AND BANANA PUDDING. • 
 
 Peel four oranges (carefully removing the 
 seeds from them) and six bananas, and cut 
 them into thin slices. Arrange them in alter- 
 nate layers in a glass dish, sprinkling each 
 layer with castor sugar. Make a custard by 
 boiling a pint of milk, three beaten eggs, and 
 two table-spoonfuls of castor sugar; flavour 
 with vanilla. When cold pour it over the 
 bananas and oranges. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 ORANGE AND BANANA SALAD. 
 
 Prepare and arrange the fruit as in the pre- 
 ceding recipe, but, instead of custard, pour over 
 the oranges and bananas some whipped cream, 
 sweetened and flavoured to taste. 
 
 ORANGE AND BATTER PUDDING. 
 
 Mix four table-spoonfuls of flour smoothly 
 and gradually with half a pint of cold milk ; add 
 two fresh eggs, thoroughly whisked, a pinch of 
 salt, a table-spoonful of moist sugar, and a 
 quarter of an ounce of oiled butter. Pour the 
 batter into a buttered basin which it will quite 
 fill, dredge a little flour over it, tie it in a floured 
 cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and keep it 
 boiling until it is done enough. If more water 
 must be put in, let it be boiung. Let the pud- 
 ding stand two or three minutes after it is 
 taken out of the water before it is turned out of 
 the mould. Place it on a hot dish, and before 
 sending to table empty a half-pound jar of 
 orange marmalade over it. The batter is better 
 if made two or three hours before it is wanted. 
 Time to boil, an hour and a half. Probable 
 cost. Is. Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 ORANGE AND LEMON CANDIED RINGS FOR 
 GARNISHING. 
 
 When orange jelly or punch is being made, 
 and the orange rinds are not used, it is good 
 economy (if trouble is not a consideration) to 
 candy the latter in rings, and store them in a 
 tin box until wanted for garnishing sweet dishes. 
 Cut the oranges into rounds a quarter of an inch 
 thick, remove the pulp without breaking the 
 ring, and leave a narrow rim of white on the 
 yellow part. Throw these rings into salt and 
 water, leave them until the following day, and 
 then boil them in fresh water until they are 
 tender. Lift them carefully out, drain on an 
 inverted sieve, and when cool dip them into 
 brandy. Make a syrup, allowing half a pound of 
 loaf sugar and half a pint of the water m which 
 the rings were boiled to each half a dozen 
 oranges. Boil it until clear ; dip the rings into 
 it three times, and again drain them. Heat the 
 syrup twice a day, and dip the rings into it 
 whilst it is hot, but not boiling, and continue 
 this until they are candied. Store in tin boxes, 
 arranging the rings in single layers between 
 sheets of writing-paper. They will keep any 
 length of time in a cool dry place. The sugar 
 ■which remains is excellent for flavouring. Time, 
 half an hour to boil them in fresh water ; to be 
 dipped in hot syrup twice a day until they are 
 candied. 
 
 ORANGE AND LEMON JUICE FOR COLDS 
 
 (Invalid Cookery). 
 Orange or lemon-juice, strained and boiled 
 with an equal weight of loaf sugar, and then 
 bottled and corked closely, will prove an agree- 
 able and valuable addition to gruel and other 
 warm drinks which are required for invalids. 
 Time, fifteen minutes to boil. Sufficient, a des- 
 sert-spoonful of lemon-juice to half » pint of 
 gruel. 
 
 ORANGE AND RAISIN COMPOTE. 
 
 Stone six ounces of muscatel raisins, and mix 
 them with three or four ounces of powdered 
 lump sugar and three table-spoonfuls of brandy 
 and sherry mixed. Cover these, and take six 
 sweet oranges, free them from the outer rind 
 and inner white pulp, remove the pips, and 
 slice the fruit thinly. Grate the rind of one of 
 the oranges, and mix it with the raisins, etc. 
 Then put the oranges in a deep dish with a 
 table-spoonful of lemon-juice and the same of 
 castor sugar, and pour the raisins, etc., on the 
 top. Cover again for an hour, and serve. This 
 compote is improved by setting the dish on ice 
 while the flavours are blending. Probable cost. 
 Is. 9d. 
 
 ORANGE-APPLE JELLY. 
 
 In preparing apple jelly a pleasing variety 
 may be made as follows. Boil the apple-juice 
 and the sugar in the usual way for about ten 
 minutes, and then throw in with them some 
 slices of orange a quarter of an inch thick. The 
 peel may be left on, but the pips should be 
 carefully removed. Let all cook together, and 
 when the apple jelly is potted, put two or three 
 slices of orange into each jar. Time, about 
 three-quarters of an hour to boil the jelly. Suf- 
 ficient, one sliced orange for a pint of apple 
 jelly. 
 
 ORANGE BISCUITS. 
 
 Beat four ounces of fresh butter to a cream. 
 Hub the rinds of two Seville oranges with a 
 quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, until the 
 yellow part is all taken off. Crush the sugar 
 to powder, and mix it with the butter; add a 
 small pinch of salt, four ounces of dried flour, 
 the well-beaten yolks of four eggs, two ounces 
 of candied orange-peel, cut into thin shreds, 
 and lastly the whites of the eggs beaten to a 
 flrm froth. Pour the mixture into small but- 
 tered moulds, sift powdered sugar over the bis- 
 cuits, and bake in a slow oven for about ten 
 minutes. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 
 ORANGE BLANCMANGE. 
 
 Take two table-spoonfuls of cornflour and 
 blend it smoothly with half a pint of cold water. 
 Wipe a lemon, and rub the yellow of the rind 
 with six ounces of lump sugar. Strain the juice 
 of six oranges and one lemon, and put all to- 
 gether into a saucepan and boil, stirring well, 
 for seven or eight minutes. Pour into a mould, 
 previously wetted with cold water, and turn out 
 when set. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 ORANGE BRANDY. 
 
 Take the thin rinds of six Seville oranges. 
 Put thenj into a stone jar, and pour over them 
 half a pint of the strained juice of the oranges 
 and two quarts of French brandy. Let them 
 
ORA 
 
 465 
 
 ORA 
 
 remain for three days, tken add a pound and a 
 quarter of loaf sugar — broken, not powdered-^ 
 and stir the liquid until the sugar is dissolved ; 
 let it stand until the next day, strain through 
 filtering paper until quite clear, pour it into 
 bottles, and cork securely; the longer orange 
 brandy is kept the better it is. This liqueur 
 should be made in March. Probable cost. Is., 
 exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for five pints 
 of orange brandy. 
 
 ORANGE CAKE. 
 
 Blanch two ounces of sweet almonds, and 
 pound them in a mortar with a little white of 
 egg; mix with them two ounces of powdered 
 sugar, two well-beaten eggs, and the yolks of 
 two hard-boiled ones which have been made 
 smooth with the back of a wooden spoon. 
 Slice four ounces of fresh butter into six ounces 
 of flour, add the almond mixture and two or 
 three spoonfuls of milk, enough to make a firm 
 paste. Roll this out in a round form, about a 
 quarter of an inch thick, and ornament the edge 
 with a thick twist, made of the trimmings of the 
 pastry. Bake on buttered paper in a moderate 
 oven until the cake is lightly browned, and when 
 nearly cool spread upon it a mixture made as 
 follows. Beat thoroughly the yolks of four eggs 
 and the white of one. Rub two ounces of loaf 
 sugar upon the yellow rind of two oranges; 
 crush the sugar to powder, and mix it with the 
 eggs. Add the strained juice of the oranges, 
 and stir the mixture over the fire until it begins 
 to thicken. When it is nearly cool, add two 
 tea-spoonfuls of powdered sugar and the well- 
 whisked whites of two eggs. Before serving, an 
 orange peeled and quartered may be laid upon 
 the cake in the form of a star. This cake is 
 very good when made of ordinary pastry. Time, 
 about half an hour to bake the cake. Probable 
 cost. Is. 6d. Sufiicient for five or six persons. 
 
 ORANGE CAKES. 
 
 Peel some Seville oranges. Weigh the rinds, 
 and boil them in two or three waters until they 
 can be easily pierced with a fork. Drain the 
 water from them, and pound them in a mortar 
 with double their weight in powdered sugar, and 
 the pulp and juice of the oranges, which must 
 have been carefully freed from skin and seeds. 
 Beat the mixture thoroughly; if it is too thick 
 add more orange-juice. Let it stand a few 
 hours, drop it upon buttered tins in small 
 rounds, and dry these in a cool oven. Orange 
 cakes should be kept in layers between sheets 
 of writing-paper, and stored in a cool dry place. 
 Time, two hours to boil the orange rinds. Prob- 
 able cost, Seville oranges. Id. or IJd. each. 
 
 ORANGE CALF'S FOOT JELLY. 
 
 Take one pint of calf's foot stock, carefully 
 freed from fat and sediment, mix with it half a 
 pint of strained orange-juice, the juice of two 
 lemons, the whites and crushed shells of three 
 eggs, the thin rinds of two oranges and one 
 lemon, a dessert-spoonful of isinglass, and four 
 ounces of sugar in lumps ; stir these gently over 
 the fire until they are well mixed, but as soon 
 as the liquid begins to heat, leave ofE stirring, 
 and let the scum rise undisturbed; let the jelly 
 simmer fifteen minutes after it has reached the 
 boiling point, then draw it to the side of -the 
 2e 
 
 fire and let it stand fifteen minutes longer to 
 settle; lift the bead of scum off carefully, and 
 pour the jelly through a tamis until it is quite 
 clear. Take a damp mould, pour in a little of 
 the jelly to the depth of half an inch, and let it 
 stand in a cool place until it is stiff ; arrange the 
 quarters of an orange on this in the form of a 
 star, first freeing them entirely from the thick 
 white skin; pour the rest of the jelly on them, 
 and set the mould in a cool place. Turn it out 
 carefully before serving. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 Sufficient for a quart mpuld. 
 
 ORANGE CHEESECAKES. 
 
 Blanch a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds, 
 and pound them in a mortar with a dessert- 
 spoonful of orange-flower water. Add four 
 ounces of finely-sifted sugar, half a pound of 
 fresh butter, the rind, pulp, and juice of a 
 small Seville orange which has been boiled in 
 two or three waters until tender, then freed 
 from the pips and skin, one candied orange 
 pounded to a paste, the yolks of five and the 
 whites of two eggs. Beat the mixture thor- 
 oughly, put it into patty-pans lined with good 
 puff-paste, and bake in a quick oven. Time to 
 bake the cheesecakes, a quarter of an hour. 
 Probable cost. Is. lOd. for this quantity. Suf- 
 ficient for two dozen cheesecakes. (See also 
 Cheesecakes.) 
 
 ORANGE CHEESECAKES (another way) 
 
 Rub the rind of a Seville orange with two or 
 three lumps of sugar until all the yellow part is 
 taken off. Crush the sugar to powder, and put 
 it into a saucepan with three table-spoonfuls of 
 new milk and a quarter of a pound of fresh 
 butter. Stir all over the fire until the butter is 
 dissolved, then pour the liquid over four ounces 
 of sponge biscuits. Beat them well with a 
 fork, and add three ounces of sugar, half a salt- 
 spoonful of nutmeg grated, a table-spoon- 
 fiil of brandy, and three eggs well-beaten. Mix 
 thoroughly. Line some patty-pans with good 
 puff-paste, half fill them with the mixture, and 
 bake in a quick oven for a quarter of an hour. 
 Probable cost. Is. 4d. Sufficient for half a dozen 
 cheesecakes. 
 
 ORANGE CHIPS. 
 
 Take the rinds of some large oranges. Cut 
 into quarters, and weigh them. Boil them in 
 water until they are so tender that they can be 
 easily pierced with a fork, drain them well, and 
 spread them in the sun or before the fire to dry. 
 Take one pound and a half of sugar to two 
 pounds of orange rind. Clarify the sugar, pour 
 it upon the rind, and leave it for twenty-four 
 hours. Strain off the syrup, boil it until it is 
 thick, and pour it boiling over the orange-rind. 
 Leave it for two days, then boil it again, and 
 repeat this until the sugar is all used. Put the 
 chips on a sieve in the sun, and leave them until 
 they are dry. Time, a week or more. Probable 
 cost, oranges. Id. each. 
 
 ORANGE COMPOTE, WITH COCOA-NUT. 
 
 The oranges should be sliced after peeling, 
 and laid in a glass dish, each layer being 
 sprinkled with grated cocoa-nut, either fresh or 
 desiccated. A thin syrup of sugar and water is 
 to be poured while hot over the fruit. Serve 
 
ORA 
 
 466 
 
 ORA 
 
 quite cold, with more cocoa-nut aprinkled over 
 last thing. Sliced bananas are Bometimes 
 added. 
 
 ORANGE COMPOTE, WITH PINEAPPLE. 
 
 Tinned pineapple does admirably for this 
 dish. Slice as before, and put in alternate 
 layers in a dish ; then boil the syrup from the 
 pine with a little sugar, and pour over. One 
 or two bananas may be added. 'This may be 
 flavoured with rum, brandy, or any desired 
 liqueur. 
 
 ORANGE CREAM. 
 
 Dissolve an ounce of isinglass in a pint of 
 water. Add the strained juice of six sweet 
 oranges and one lenion, and four ounces of loaf 
 sugar, which has been well rubbed upon the 
 rinds of the fruit. Stir all gently over the fire, 
 until the sugar is dissolved, tui^n it out, and 
 when nearly cold, add half a pint of thick cream. 
 Pour the mixture into a dainp mould, and place 
 it in a cool airy situation until it is stiff and 
 firm. Serve the cream in a glass dish. Time, 
 ten minutes to boil the juice and sugar with the 
 isinglass. Probable cost, 2s. lOd. Sufficient for 
 a. quart mould. 
 ORANGE CREAM (another way). 
 
 {See Cbeam, Orange.) 
 
 ORANGE CREAM SAUCE (for Puddings and sweet 
 dishes). 
 Soak the thin rind of half- a small Seville 
 orange in four table-spoonfula of water for half 
 an hour. Strain the liquid, add two ounces of 
 loaf sugar and the juice of a St. Michael 
 orange, and boil quickly for two minutes. When 
 nearly cold, mix it with half a pint of thick 
 cream and a table-spoonful of rum, and serve. 
 Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for six or eight 
 persons. 
 
 ORANGE CUSTARD. 
 
 Strain the juice of four oranges over four 
 ounces of loaf sugar, put it into an enamelled 
 saucepan, and stir it over a gentle fire until 
 the whole is dissolved. When the liquid is 
 almost cold, add three-quarters of a pint of thick 
 cream and the well-beaten yolks of four eggs. 
 Put the custard in a jar, place this in a saucepan 
 of boiling water, and stir it until it thickens; 
 serve either in a glass dish, or in custard cups, 
 and strew over the. top a little orange-rind cut 
 into very thin strips. Time, about a quarter 
 of an hour to boil tie custard.. Sufficient fpr 
 four or fiV;e persons. - 
 
 ORANGE CUSTARD (another way). 
 
 Boil the thin rind of a Seville orange until it 
 is quite soft. Drain the wat^r from it, and 
 pound it in a mortar with four ounces of Sifted 
 sugar. Stir the mixture irito a pint of boiling 
 cream, and add the yolks of four eggs wefl 
 beaten. Put the custard into a jug, set this in 
 a pan of boiling water, and stir it over the fire 
 until it begins to thicken. Pour it out, and stir 
 it again until it is nearly cold; add a table- 
 spoonful of brandy and the strained juice of the 
 orange, and serve either in a glass dish or in 
 cups. A little orange-peel, cut into very fine 
 shreds, may be put on the top of the custard. 
 If cream cannot be obtained, milk maybe used; 
 then the yolks of six eggs will be required. 
 
 Time, a quarter of an hour to thicken the 
 custard. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for a 
 pint and a half of custard. 
 ORANGE CUSTARD FRITTERS. 
 
 Mix a quarter of a pound of flour very 
 smoothly with three eggs and a pint of milk. 
 Stir the batter over the flre for ten or fifteen 
 minutes until it is quite smooth, then add a 
 pinch of salt, two ounces of loaf sugar, which 
 have been well rubbed upon the rinds of two 
 large oranges, and the well-beaten yolks of 
 three eggs. Spread the mixture out to cool, cut 
 it into small i oval pieces about an inch and, a 
 half long, and fry these lightly in hot fat. 
 Drain them on blotting-paper, and serve them 
 piled high on a napkin, with sifted sugar strewn 
 thickly over them. Time, about eight minutes 
 to fry the fritters. Probable cost. Is. Suf- 
 ficient for three or four persons; 
 
 ORANGE-FLOWER CANDY. 
 
 Put one pound of doubly-refined loaf sugar 
 into a; saucepan with half a pint of water, and 
 boil gently for ten minutes. Throw in two 
 ounces of freshly-gathered orange-flowers, and 
 leave them in the boiling syrup for five minutes, 
 then turn them into a bowl, and let them remain 
 for two days. Boil the syrup once more until it 
 rises high in the pan; strain it upon sheets of 
 paper which have been placed upon large flat 
 dishes, and loosen it from the paper before it is 
 quite cold. Store the candy in canisters until 
 wanted for use ; it will keep good some months. 
 Probable cost, uncertain, orange-flowers being 
 seldom offered for sale. 
 
 ORANGE-FLOWER CREAM ICE 
 
 Chop fine an ounce of fresh candied orange- 
 flowers, add three ounces of sugar, four yolks of 
 eggs, a quart of cream, and two spoonfuls of 
 orange-flower wrater. Put in a saucepan, and let 
 it come to boiling point. Take it off, and whisk 
 till cold, then freeze. 
 
 ORANGE-FLOWERS. 
 
 The flowers of the orange-tree should be dried 
 in the months of May, June, and July. They 
 are used for making candy and orange-flower 
 tea, which is considered by many persons an 
 excellent tonic. The flowers of .the Seville 
 qrange are infused in< making orange-flower 
 water for flavouring. 
 
 ORANGE-FLOWERS, TEA OF. 
 
 Take half an ounce of orange-flowers. Put 
 them into a jug, pour over them half a pint of 
 boiling water, and leave them to infuse for a 
 few minutes; strain the tea, and sweeten it 
 either with sugar or hoAey. Probable cost, un- 
 certain, orange-flowers being seldom offered for 
 sale. Sufficient for half a pint. • , 
 
 ORANGE FOOL. 
 
 Strain the juice of three Seville oranges into 
 a basin with three well-beaten eggs, Mix them 
 thoroughly, grate half a small nnitmeg over 
 them, and add a pint of thick cream, flavoured 
 and sweetened with sugar which has been 
 rubbed upon lemon-rind. Put the mixture into 
 -d jug,, place it in a pan of boiling water, and 
 stir it over the fire until it begins to thicken. 
 Serve it in a glass dish, with a little sifted sugar 
 strewn over it. Time, a quarter of an hour to 
 
ORA 
 
 467 
 
 ORA 
 
 thicken the mixture. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. 
 SufScient for five or six persons. 
 
 ORANGE FRITTERS. 
 
 Mix two table-spoonfuls of flour smoothly 
 with one well-beaten egg, a quarter of an ounce 
 of butter, and a quarter of a pint of cream, and 
 add a pinch of salt and a dessert-spoonful of 
 brandy. Peel four or five large sweet oranges; 
 take away the white pith, and divide them into 
 sections without breaking the thin skin that 
 separates them. Dip the pieces first into sherry 
 then into sifted sugar, and afterwards into the 
 batter. Fry them in hot fat until they are 
 lightly browned. Drain them on blotting-paper 
 to free them entirely from fat, and serve piled 
 high on a hot napkin, with sifted sugar strewn 
 over them. Time, eight or ten minutes to fry the 
 oranges. Probable cost^ Is., exclusive of the wine 
 and brandy. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 ORANGE FRITTERS (another way). 
 
 To make the batter, see Batteb for Feting. 
 Divide some oranges into quarters; do it care- 
 fully so that none of the juice shall escape ; the 
 thick white or outer skin must be removed, but 
 the thin skin that holds in the juices should be 
 kept sound. Dip the pieces of orange iu sherry, 
 then into fine sugar, and lastly into the batter. 
 Fry, and send to table in pyramid fashion, with 
 {jowdered sugar over them, and a napkin on the 
 dish. Fritters may be made with a variety of 
 fruit— pears, strawberries, etc. Probable cost, 
 lOd. Time to fry, five minutes. Sufficient for 
 a small dish. 
 
 ORANGE GIN. 
 
 Take the thin rind of three Seville oranges 
 and one lemon, and put it into a jar with a 
 pint and a half of gin, three-quarters of a pound 
 of barley sugar crushed to powder, and the 
 strained juice of the fruit; cover the jar closely, 
 and leave it for two or three weeks, being careful 
 to shake it well every now and then. Strain the 
 liqueur into bottles, cork these securely, and 
 store for use. Orange gin improves with keep- 
 ing. Probable cost, exclusive of the spirit. Is. 
 Sufficient for one quart of orange gin. 
 
 ORANGE GINGERBREAD. 
 
 Put three-quarters of a pound of fresh butter 
 into a jar with a pound and three-quarters of 
 best treacle, and place the vessel near the fire 
 until the butter is dissolved. Beat the ingredi- 
 ents well together, let them cool a little, then 
 stir them into two pounds and a quarter of fine 
 flour. Add three-quarters of a pound of moist 
 sugar, one ounce of ground ginger, one ounce of 
 allspice, and half a pound of candied orange-peel 
 cut into thin shreds. When the ingredients are 
 thoroughly mixed, put them aside for some 
 hours. Roll the mixture out to the thickness of 
 half an inch. Divide it into fingers, squares, or 
 any form which may be preferred; brush these 
 over with a little milk mixed with yolk of egg, 
 and bake them on buttered tins in a cool oven. 
 The cakes should be placed an inch apart from 
 one another on the tins. Time to bake, a 
 quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 3s. (See 
 also Gingerbread, Orange.) 
 
 ORANGE GRAVY. 
 
 (JSee Gravy, Orange.) 
 
 ORANGE GRAVY FOR TEAL, WIDGEONS, SNIPES, 
 WOODCOCK, ETC. 
 
 Put half a pint of veal gravy into a saucepan 
 with an onion cut into small pieces, half a dozen 
 leaves of basil, the rind of half a small Seville 
 orange, and, if the flavour is liked, a little 
 lemon-rind also. Simmer the gravy gently for 
 ten or fifteen minutes. Strain it, and add to it 
 the juice of the orange, half a tea-spoonful of 
 salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, a pinch of 
 cayenne, and a glassful of claret. Bring the 
 sauce to the point of boiling, and serve very hot 
 in a tureen. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the 
 claret. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 ORANGE, ICED. 
 
 Take off the rind, and carefully remove as 
 much of the white as possible without drawing 
 the juice ; if bruised, oranges are useless for this 
 purpose. Whisk the whites of two eggs to a 
 froth, and then beat into it a pound of sugar, 
 which should be of the best quality, and 
 pounded; continue to beat for a, quarter of an 
 hour, when the oranges must be dipped singly 
 into the egg and sugar mixture; this is best 
 effected by running a strong thread through 
 each, by which they can be attached to a rod 
 suspended across the oven. In a cool oven they 
 should dry without acquiring colour, and will 
 resemble balls of ice. Time, about half an hour 
 to dry. Sufficient, half a pound of sugar ta 
 twelve oranges. 
 
 ORANGE, ICED (another way). 
 
 Whisk the white of an egg to affirm froth, and 
 mix with it eight ounces of pounded and sifted 
 sugar; beat the mixture thoroughly for ten or 
 fifteen minutes. Peel three or four large sound 
 oranges ; take away the white pith without 
 breaking the skin of the fruit, put a double 
 thread through each orange, which must be im- 
 mersed singly in the sugar. Fasten the oranges 
 by the thread to a long piece of stick, hang them 
 in a very cool oven, and leave them until they- 
 are quite dry, but they must not be allowed to 
 acquire any colour. Arrange the balls on a folded 
 napkin, and garnish with sprigs of myrtle. Time,, 
 about one hour to dry. Probable cost of "oranges. 
 Id. each. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 ORANGE, ISINGLASS JELLY. 
 
 Take half a dozen ripe oranges, one lemon, 
 and one small Seville orange. Pare off the rinds 
 of half of them very thinly, pour over the peel a 
 quarter of a pint of boiling water, and let them 
 infuse for half an hour. Squeeze out the juice of 
 the fruit and strain it carefully. Dissolve one 
 ounce of isinglass, or gelatine, in three-quarters - 
 of a pint of water, mix with it the strained liquid 
 in which the rinds have been soaked, and a 
 quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, and stir over the 
 fire, skimming carefully until it is on the point of 
 boiling; then add the strained juice, stir and 
 skim the liquid again, draw the saucepan to the 
 side of the fire for two or three minutes, and 
 pass the jelly through a tamis until it is clear 
 and bright. A table-spoonful of whisky may 
 be added, and will be considered an improve- 
 ment by many persons ; a blade of saffron will 
 deepen the colour. Pour the jelly into a damp 
 mould, and put it in a cool place until it is set. 
 If it is not clear, clarify it according to direc- 
 
ORA 
 
 468 
 
 ORA 
 
 tions given under Calf's Foot Jelly. Prob- 
 able cost, 2s. Sufficient for a pint and a half 
 mould. 
 
 ORANGE, ISINGLASS JELLY(to mould with Oranges). 
 Prepare the orange jelly according to the 
 directions given in the last recipe. When it is 
 quite clear pour a small quantity into a damp 
 mould, and put it aside until it is set. Divide 
 a ripe China orange into quarters, and whilst 
 freeing it entirely from the white skin be care- 
 ful not to break the thin skin which covers the 
 sections. Boil the pieces of orange in a little 
 thin syrup for two or three minutes, then drain 
 them well, and arrange them upon the layer of 
 stiffened jelly in the mould. Pour the rest of 
 the jelly over, and set it aside until it is suf- 
 ficiently firm to turn out. If preferred, the 
 mould may be filled with layers of orange and 
 jelly, but of course one layer must stiffen before 
 another is put on, and thus a much longer time 
 will be required. Time, eight or ten hours to 
 set the jelly. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient 
 for a quart mould. 
 
 ORANGE JELLY. 
 
 Take four pints of apple juice, made accord- 
 ing to the directions given for apple jelly (see 
 Apple Jelly). Put with this the strained juice 
 of half a dozen oranges, and let it run through a 
 jelly-bag to make it clear. Put into the jelly- 
 bag the thin yellow rind of three oranges. Boil 
 two pounds and a half of loaf sugar with a quart 
 of water. Skim it well, and clear away with a 
 sponge the thick white scum that settles on the 
 sides of the pan. When it is a thick syrup 
 put the juice with it, and boil until a little 
 jelly put upon a plate will set. Turn into 
 pots for use. 
 
 ORANGE JELLY (another way). 
 
 Put the strained juice of four Seville oranges, 
 and the thin rind of one, into an enamelled 
 saucepan with a pint of water and eight sweet 
 oranges — freed entirely from the rind and white 
 pith, and cut into slices a quarter of an inch in 
 thickness— and the pips of all the oranges. Sim- 
 mer very gently for half an hour, then strain the 
 liquid until it is quite clear. Weigh this, boil 
 it for five minutes, put with it its weight in 
 good loaf sugar, and boil again until it jellies. 
 Put it into jars, cover it in the usual way, and 
 store in a cool dry place. Time, altogether, 
 about one hour. Probable cost of Seville 
 oranges. Is. per dozen. 
 
 ORANGE LIQUEUR. 
 
 Stick half a dozen cloves into a fine Seville 
 orange, put it into an earthen jar with one pint 
 and a half of rectified spirits, or best gin, and 
 leave it for a month. Boil one pound and a 
 quarter of loaf sugar quickly with half a pint of 
 water, pour it into the spirit, and leave it for 
 another month. Filter the liqueur through 
 blotting-paper, pour it into bottles, cork 
 securely, and store for use. Probable cost, ex- 
 clusive of the spirit, 7d. Sufficient for nearly 
 three pints of liqueur. 
 
 ORANGE LIQUEUR (another way). 
 
 Take the thin, rind of two Seville oranges, and 
 put it into an earthen jar with a pinch of saffron 
 and a pint and a half of best gin. Leave the 
 
 vessel in a warm place for a week, then add half 
 a pound of si.gar, boiled to a syrup, with a 
 quarter of a pint of water, and let it remain tour 
 «eeks longer. Filter the liqueur through blot- 
 ting-paper, and bottle for use. Probable cost, 
 exclusive of the spirit, 5d. Sufficient for a 
 quart of liqueur. 
 
 ORANGE MARMALADE. 
 
 Orange marmalade shQuld be made at the end 
 of March or the beginning of April, as the 
 Seville oranges are then in perfection, and it 
 should be remembered that large oranges with 
 clear skins are the best for the purpose. The 
 proportion of sweet and bitter oranges must be 
 regulated by individual taste. As a general 
 rule, however, nine St. Michael oranges and 
 two lemons may be put with every dozen of 
 Seville oranges. 
 
 ORANGE MARMALADE (an easy method). 
 
 Take equal weights of oranges and loaf sugar. 
 Put the oranges whole into a preserving-pan, 
 cover them with cold water, and bring them to 
 the point of boiling. Pour off the liquid, put 
 fresh water with the fruit, and boil gently until 
 the rinds of the oranges can be easily pierced 
 with the head of a pin. Take out and drain the 
 oranges, and cut them — skin, pulp, and every- 
 thing — into very thin slices; remove the pips, 
 and throw the fruit into a preserving-pan with 
 half a pint of the water in which the oranges 
 were last boiled to every pound of fruit, and half 
 the sugar which is to be used. Simmer gently 
 for thirty minutes, then add the remainder of 
 the sugar, and boil twenty minutes longer, or 
 until the marmalade jellies. Pour it into jars, 
 and when cold cover and store for use. Probable 
 cost of Seville oranges, 5s. or 6s. per hundred. 
 
 ORANGE MARMALADE (another way). 
 
 Weigh the oranges before boiling them, and 
 allow two pounds of loaf sugar to every pound 
 of fruit. Boil in plenty of water until they are 
 BO soft that the skins can be easily pierced, then 
 drain, and peel them. Carefully remove the 
 pulp with tKe back of a tea-spoon, and throw 
 the pips and skins into cold water. Cut the 
 rinds into thin strips. Kub a preserving-pan 
 quickly round with a cut lemon, and boil the 
 sugar to a syrup with a quarter of a pint of the 
 strained water in which the pips were soaked to 
 each pound. Throw in the fruit, let it boil, then 
 draw it to the side of the fire, and simmer gently 
 until the marmalade jellies. Put it into jars, 
 cover closely, and store for use. Time, half an 
 hour to simmer the marmalade. Probable cost 
 of Seville oranges, 5s. or 6s. per hundred. 
 
 ORANGE MARMALADE (Invalid Cookery). 
 
 Take the same proportion of bitter and sweet 
 oranges that was recommended in the first 
 " Orange Marmalade " recipe, and an equal 
 weight of loaf sugar. Boil the rinds in two 
 waters until they are quite soft, and preserve 
 the liquid in which they were last boiled. Scrape 
 the pulp out carefully, throw the white or inner 
 skins of the oranges together with the pips into 
 a basin of cold water, and let them infuse for an 
 hour or two. Pound the rinds in a mortar ; mix 
 with them very gfradually the pulp and juice, half 
 the quantity of sugar which is to be used, and a 
 
ORA 
 
 469 
 
 ORA 
 
 quarter of a pint of liquid to each pound of pulp 
 and juice. This liquid should consist of the 
 strained water in which the pips were soaked 
 and that in which the oranges were boiled. 
 Simmer gently for twenty minutes, then add the 
 remainder of the sugar, and boil again until the 
 marmalade jellies. Time, about three-quarters 
 of an hour to boil. Probable cost of Seville 
 oranges, 5s. or 6s. per hundred. 
 
 ORANGE MARMALADE (old-fashioned method). 
 
 Take the weight of the oranges in loaf sugar. 
 Divide the rinds into quarters, put them into a 
 preserving-pan with plenty of cold water, and 
 let them boil until they can be easily pierced 
 with the head of a pin. Whilst they are boiling, 
 divide the fruit into sections, scrape out care- 
 fully all the pulp, and throw the skins and pips 
 into a little cold water — a pint is sufficient for a 
 dozen oranges. When the rinds are tender, 
 drain them well, and preserve the water in which 
 they were boiled. If it is wished to have the 
 marmalade very clear, thin, and highly coloured, 
 the pith or inside of the rinds should be scraped 
 out. The marmalade will then be more like 
 preserve. It will be thicker and more eco- 
 nomical if the pith be left in, but this is a 
 matter of taste. Lay the rinds in folds, and cut 
 them into thin shreds about an inch long. 
 Allow a pint of water for every dozen oranges, 
 using the strained liquid from the pips and 
 skins and that in which the oranges were boiled, 
 instead of fresh water. Put the pulp and the 
 shreds into this, let them infuse for six hours, 
 then boil them gently until the shreds are quite 
 tender; add the proper proportion of pounded 
 sugar, and boil again until the marmalade 
 jellies. Put it into jars, and when cold cover 
 in the usual way. Time, two hours to boil the 
 rinds ; six hours to infuse the pulp, etc., in the 
 liquid. Probable cost of marmalade, 8d. per 
 pound. 
 
 ORANGE MARMALADE PUDDING. 
 
 Shred six ounces of beef suet very finely, mix 
 with it half a pound of finely-grated bread- 
 crumbs, half a pound of orange marmalade, two 
 table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, an ounce of 
 candied peel chopped small, a pinch of salt, 
 three well-beaten eggs, and a quarter of a pint 
 of new milk. Put the mixture into a fioured 
 cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and let it 
 ■keep boiling until it is done enough. Turn out 
 carefully, and serve with wine sauce. If pre- 
 ferred, this pudding may be boiled in a mould, 
 but care must be taken that the mould is quite 
 filled with the mixture; or it may be steamed. 
 Time to boil or steam the pudding, four hours. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for six or eight 
 persons. 
 
 ORANGE MARMALADE PUDDING, BAKED. 
 
 Mix a large table-spoonful of orange marma- 
 lade with two table-spoonfuls of powdered loaf 
 sugar, two ounces of clarified butter, and a 
 dessert-spoonful of fine flour. Beat the mixture 
 well until it is quite free from lumps, then add 
 two well-whisked eggs ; line a pie-dish with good 
 puff-paste, pour in the mixture, and bake in a 
 brisk oven. If preferred, the flour may be 
 omitted. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 ORANGE MARMALADE PUDDING MADE WITH 
 BREAD, 
 
 •Butter a plain quart mould rather thickly. 
 Spread a little orange maimalade over the bot- 
 tom, lay on it a thin slice of bread and butter, 
 and repeat until the mould is three parts full. 
 Pour in a custard made with a pint of milk and 
 three well-beaten eggs. Let the bread soak in . 
 this for an hour, then cover the pudding closely, 
 and steam it over hot water until it is firm. 
 Let the pudding stand for a minute before turn- 
 ing it out, and serve with sweet sauce. Time, 
 half an hour to steam the pudding. Probable 
 cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons, 
 
 ORANGE MARMALADE WITH HONEY. 
 
 Rub the oranges with a soft cloth, peel them, 
 throw the rinds into cold water, and boil until 
 they are quite tender ; then drain, and cut 
 them into very thin strips about an inch long. 
 Separate the pulp and juice from the inner skin 
 and the pips, and put them into a preserving- 
 pan with half ■• pound of the cut rinds and one 
 pound of Iioney to every pint of pulp. Boil the 
 marmalade gently, stirring it frequently, and 
 when the proper consistency is attained pour it 
 into jars; cover these closely, and store in a 
 cool dry place. Time, about three-quarters of 
 an hour to boil the marmalade. Probable cost 
 of oranges, 5s. or 6s. per hundred; honey, lOd. 
 per pound. 
 
 ORANGE OR LEMON SHRUB. 
 
 Make a, syrup by boiling a quart of strained 
 orange or lemon-juice with four pounds of 
 powdered loaf sugar. When quite clear, add a 
 pint of rum to each half pint of syrup. Put the 
 mixture into a perfectly sweet dry cask, and 
 shake it twice a day for a fortnight; leave it 
 for six weeks, when it may be drained off, and 
 bottled. Time, two months to prepare. 
 
 ORANGE-PEEL. 
 
 The fresh and dried peel of the orange, as 
 well as that of the lemon and citron, is much 
 in demand for flavouring purposes. Under the 
 name of chips, lemon and orange-peel preserved 
 in sugar are eaten. We meet with chips pre- 
 served in sugar, moist, under the name of 
 " candied " peel. 
 
 ORANGE-PEEL, CANDIED. 
 
 Divide the fruit into quarters lengthwise, and 
 remove the pulp ; or, if preferred, take any 
 pieces of orange rind which are not required, 
 provided only that they are large enough. 
 Throw them into salt and water sufficiently 
 strong to bear an egg, and let them infuse for 
 six days. Drain them well, throw them into 
 cold water for an hour, and afterwards place 
 them in a preserving-pan with as much cold 
 water as will cover them, and let them boil 
 until they are so tender that they can be easily 
 pierced with a fork or skewer. Drain them 
 again, and boil them in a thin syrup, made in 
 the proportion of a pint of water to half a pound 
 of loaf sugar, until they look clear, which will 
 be in about half an hour. Boil some sugar, with 
 as much water as it will absorb, to a clear syrup. 
 There should be enough to cover the orange- 
 rinds when they are thrown in. Boil them until 
 the sugar candies, then take them out, drain 
 
ORA 
 
 470 
 
 ORA 
 
 them, sift a little powdered sugar over them, 
 and place them in a warm place to dry; then 
 store for use. Time, a week to prepare. Prob- 
 able cost of oranges, from 8d. to Is. per dozen. 
 
 ORANGE-PEEL FOR FLAVOURING. 
 
 When orange-peel cannot be obtained for 
 flavouring, a substitute may be prepared as 
 follows. Mix one drachm of the essential oil of 
 orange with a quarter of a pint of spirits of 
 wine. Put the essence into small bottles, and 
 cork closely. The flavour is not equal to that of 
 the fresh fruit.' Or, soak the thin rind of two 
 or three fresh oranges in as much brandy or 
 spirits of wine as will cover them for a week or 
 ten days. Filter the liquid, bottle, and cork 
 closely until wanted. If this essence is exposed 
 to the air the flavour of it quickly evaporates. 
 The best way to preserve orange-peel for flavour- 
 ing is to rub the rind with lumps of sugar, and 
 when the yellow part is all taken off, to crush 
 the sugar to powder, and keep it closely covered. 
 
 ORANGE-PEEL, SYRUP OF, FOR FLAVOURING. 
 
 Take two ounces of the thin yellow rind of 
 Seville oranges entirely free from the white 
 part. Put it into a jar, and pour over it a pint 
 of boiling water, cover closely, and leave it until 
 the next day. Filter the liqueur through blot- 
 "ting-paper, put it into an enamelled saucepan, 
 and with it a pound and a half of loaf sugar. 
 Let it heat very gently over a slow fire until the 
 sugar is dissolved, then bottle, cork closely, and 
 store for use. Probable cost of oranges. Id. 
 -each. Suflicient for a quart of syrup. 
 
 ORANGE PUDDING. 
 
 Rub the rind of a large orange upon three or 
 four lumps of sugar until all the yellow part is 
 taken off. Make the sugar up to four ounces, 
 put it into a bowl, and strain over it the juice 
 of four oranges. Pour half a pint of boiling 
 milk over three ounces of bruised ratafias or 
 spongecake which have been finely crumbled. 
 Add a pinch of salt and a quarter of a small 
 nutmeg, grated. Mix thoroughly the contents 
 of the two bowls, and stir in three well-beaten 
 eggs. Line the edges of a pie-dish with good 
 puff-paste, pour in the mixture, sprinkle a tea- 
 spoonful of powdered ratafias over the top, and 
 bake in a moderate oven for half an hour. 
 Probable cost. Is. 2d. Suflicient for three or 
 four persons. 
 
 ORANGE PUDDING (another way). 
 
 Boil thfe thin yellow rinds of two Seville 
 oranges and one sweet one until they are quite 
 soft. Drain them well, and pound them to a 
 paste. Beat a quarter of a pound of fresh but- 
 ter to a cream, add a quarter of a pound of 
 powdered sugar, the orange paste, the strained 
 juice of the sweet orange, and a table-spoonful of 
 brandy. Whisk four eggs thoroughly, and stir 
 them in with the rest. Line a shallow dish with 
 good puff-paste, pour in the mixture, and bake 
 in a moderate oven for half an hour. Probable 
 cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 ORANGE PUDDING, BOILED. 
 
 Take the thin yellow rind of two Seville 
 oranges, and boil it until tender. Drain 
 it well, and pound it to a paste. Pour a 
 pint of boiling milk over a auarter of a pound of 
 
 spongecakes or finely-grated bread-crumbs; 
 soak until cold, then add the rind of the oranges, 
 three table-spoonfula of powdered sugar, the 
 strained juice of a small lemon, two ounces of 
 clarified butter, and four well-beaten eggs. Mix 
 all thoroughly. Pour the mixture into a well- 
 buttered mould which it will quite fill, tie the 
 mould in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling 
 water, and let the pudding boil quickly until 
 done enough. A pudding thus made may be 
 steamed or baked as well as boiled. Half a 
 dozen sweet almonds blanched and pounded will 
 greatly improve the flavour. Time, one hour to 
 boil or steam ; half an hour to bake. Probable 
 cost. Is. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 ORANGE PUNCH. 
 
 Dissolve a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar in 
 a pint of boiling water. Add the strained juice 
 of a small lemon, a quarter of a pint of brandy, 
 a quarter of a pint of orange wine, a quarter of 
 a pint of rum, and, if liked, a glassful of mar- 
 aschino or Cura9oa. The punch may be taken 
 either hot or cold, and if bottled and corked 
 closely will keep for some time. A quarter of a 
 pint of calf's foot jelly will greatly improve it. 
 Time, a few minutes to dissolve the sugar. 
 Suflicient for three pints of punch. 
 
 ORANGE SALAD. 
 
 Peel three or four good oranges, free them 
 from the white skin, and cut them into slices of 
 about a quarter of an inch in thickness. 
 Arrange them neatly in a compote-dish, strew 
 three ounces of flnely-powdered sugar over them, 
 and pour upon them a wine-glassful of sherry, 
 a wine-glassful of brandy, and another of rum 
 or whisky. Cura9oa or maraschino may be used 
 instead of the above mixture, if preferred. Many 
 persons find no wine so agreeable in an orange 
 salad as port. This dish should, if possible, be 
 made the day before it is wanted. 
 
 ORANGE SALAD (another way). 
 
 Select St. Michael or Messina oranges of uni- 
 form size and small, cut them into thin slices 
 and the slices into quarters. Marinade with one- 
 third of a cup of olive oil, two table-spoonfuls of 
 lemon-juice, six drops of tabasco sauce, half a 
 tea-spoonful of salt, and one tea-spoonful of 
 paprika mixed together. Serve on a bed of 
 water-cress. 
 
 ORANGES AND APPLES, COMPOTE OF. 
 
 Take half a dozen flue sweet apples and three 
 oranges. Rub the skins well with a soft cloth, 
 and cut them across in very thin round slices. 
 Arrange the pieces alternately in a circle in a 
 glass dish, with one piece half over the other, 
 and pour over them a syrup made according to 
 the directions given in a succeeding recipe (see 
 Oranges, CompOte op). Serve when cold. Time, 
 flve or ten minutes to boil the. syrup. Probable 
 cost, 8d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. 
 
 ORANGE SAUCE FOR DUCKS AND WILD FOWL. 
 
 Boil the yellow rind of two Seville oranges 
 until it is quite tender. Cut it into thin strips 
 about half an inch long. Pour over these the 
 strained juice of the oranges, a 'glassful of 
 sherry or Madeira, and a quarter of a pint of 
 white stock. Simmer gently for five or six 
 minute^, then add a pinch of cayenne and a 
 
ORA 
 
 471 
 
 ORA 
 
 little salt, if required. Serve very hot. Prob- 
 able cost; exclusive of the wine, 4d. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. 
 
 ORANGE SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS. 
 
 Bub three or four large lumps of sugar upon 
 the rind of a large sweet orange until all the 
 yellow part is taken off. Scrape out the pulp 
 and' juice of two oranges, and add them to the 
 flavoured sugar. Mix a tea-spoonful of arrow- 
 root very smoothly with three table-spoonfuls of 
 maraschino or Cura9oa. Stir all gently over 
 the fire for three or four minutes until the sauce 
 thickens, then serve immediately. Probable 
 cost, exclusive of the liqueur, 2d. Sufficient for 
 three persons. 
 
 ORANGES, COLOURED, FOR DESSERT. 
 
 Crush to powder three or four ounces of 
 doubly-refined sugar. Pour over it a few drops of 
 prepared cochineal, and move the sugar about 
 with the fingers until it is all equally coloured, 
 then put the dish which, contains it' on the 
 fender until it is quite dry. Peel half a dozen 
 ripe oranges, free them entirely from the thick 
 white skin and thready parts, but be careful not 
 to pierce the friiit itself. Roll the oranges in 
 the coloured sugar, arrange them neatly on a 
 dish, andgarnish with sprigs of myrtle. Time, 
 a quarter of an hour to dry the sugar. Prob- 
 able cost, 6d. Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 ORANGES, COMPOTE OF. 
 
 Pare the rind very thinly off three or four 
 large sound oranges. Cut the fruit across into 
 halves, removing the white skin and pips, and 
 pile the oranges in a glass dish. Boil the rind 
 with half a pint of water and a quarter of a 
 pound of sugar tmtil the syrup is clear ; mix a 
 table-spoonful of brandy with it, and strain it 
 over the fruit. When cold it is ready to serve. 
 A table-spoonful of arrowroot may be mixed 
 with the syrup to thicken it, and two or three 
 drops of cochineal may be put in by w'ay of 
 colouring. Time, five or ten minutes to boil the 
 ^yrup. Probable cost, exclusive of the brandy, 
 4d. Sufficient for three or four persons; ' 
 
 ORANGE, SEVILLE, PASTE FOR DESSERT. 
 
 Pare the yellow rind from some smooth- 
 skinned Seville oranges, and be careful not to 
 take with it the white thin skin which covers the 
 fruit. Throw the rinds into boiling water, and 
 let-them.keep boiling until they are quite tender, 
 then place them upon an inverted sieve, and, as 
 soon as the water has run from them, pound 
 them in a mortar with as muoh powdered sugar 
 as they will take. EoU the paste out to the 
 thickness of a quarter of an inch, stamp it into 
 shapes with an ordinary pastry-cutter, ai:d put 
 these upon buttered paper in a very slow oven. 
 When they are dry on one side, turn them to 
 the other. Put them in a tin box between sheets 
 of writing-paper, and store in a warm place. 
 Probable cost of Seville oranges. Is. per dozen. 
 Time, about two hours to boil the rind. 
 
 ORANGES FILLED WITH JELLY. 
 
 When a large variety of dishes is required, 
 orange-skins are sometimes emptied entirely of 
 the frmt; cut out in the shape. of baskets, and 
 filled with bright clear jelly of different colours. 
 They look pretty; very great care and a sharp 
 
 knife, however, are required to make them. 
 The handle of the basket should be cut across 
 the stalk-end of the fruit, and should be fully 
 half an inch wide. The basket-part should 
 take up half of the orange. The best way to. 
 
 ORANGES PILLED WITH JELLY. 
 
 make these baskets is to mark out their shape 
 first without piercing the fruit, then take away 
 the quarters of the rind which will not be re- 
 quired, and pass the flat part of a tea-spoon 
 carefully under the handle to separate it from 
 the fruit, which must then be pressed out 
 through the empty spaces. The jelly should be 
 nearly cold before it is put into the skins. Probr 
 able cost, oranges. Id. each. (See Jelly in 
 Obange Skins.) 
 oranges, iced. 
 
 Remove the rind and pith from the required 
 number of oranges, being careful not to draw 
 the juice. Make some white icing, as for bride- 
 cake, but thinner; pass a strong thread through 
 the centre of each orange, and dip them singly 
 in the icing, then when dly give them a second 
 co'ating, and make smooth with a palette knife. 
 The threads can be fastened to a long stick, and 
 the fruit suspended in a warm place until dry. 
 Garnish with some green citron-peel in strips. 
 ORANGES IN SYRUP (a dessert dish). 
 
 Peel four or flve large oranges, and remove 
 all the white pith and thready parts without 
 injuring in the slightest degree the thin trans- 
 parent skin which covers the fruit. Boil half a 
 pound of loaf sugar in a quarter of a pint of 
 water to a clear Syrup, add a wine-glassful of 
 maraschino or any other liqueur or spirit that 
 may be preferred, and pour the hot liquid over 
 the oranges. Let them remain for three or four 
 hours, then turn them over; boil the syrup up 
 once inore] and pour it again upon the oranges. 
 Serve in a glass dish, and garnish with sprigs of 
 myrtle. The qiiantity of sugar used for the 
 syrup must depend upon the season ; if it is 
 early in the winter, and the oranges are sour, a 
 larger proportion of sugar should be used, and 
 besides tjiis. the oranges should be boiled in the 
 syrup for a few minutes. Time, ten minutes to 
 boil .the syrup. ,Prpbable cost, exclusive of th« 
 spirit, 6d. , Sufficient for four or flve persons. 
 ORANGES, MOULDED (a pretty supper dish). 
 
 This dish, though very pretty, is rather Ait-. 
 flcult to prepare. Peel three or four large 
 oranges, and divide them into sections, being 
 caireful not to break the thin skin which separ- 
 ates them. Oil a small plain mould thoroughly. 
 Boil a- quarter of a pound of loaf sugar in 
 three tableispoonfuls of water to crackling 
 height, dip the edges of the orange-sections 
 into this, arrange them in layers round the 
 sides only of the mould, and fasten them 
 
ORA 
 
 472 
 
 ORA 
 
 together with the sugar. When they are firm, 
 turn them on a dish, and fill the centre with 
 
 MOULDED OKANQES. 
 
 whipped cream. Time, ten or twelve minutes 
 to boil the sugar. Probable cost, exclusive of 
 the cream, 6d. Sufficient for a small mould. 
 
 ORANGE SNOW-BALLS. 
 
 Throw half a pound of best Carolina rice loose 
 into a saucepan of boiling water, and boil it 
 quickly for five minutes. Peel four sweet 
 oranges, and carefully remove the thick white 
 skin without injuring the fruit. Drain the rice, 
 and when it is cool spread it out in four equal 
 parte on four small pudding cloths. Place one 
 of the pared oranges on each of these, gather 
 the cloth carefully round it, and tie it securely. 
 Plunge the dumplings into boiling water, and 
 let them remain on the fire until done enough. 
 Turn them out carefully, sprinkle powdered 
 sugar over them, and send orange sauce to table 
 with them. Time to boil, one hour and a half. 
 Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 ORANGE SOUFFLE. 
 
 Eiub three ounces or ground rice, or, if pre- 
 ferred, dried flour, with two ounces of fresh 
 butter. Pour upon these half a pint of milk 
 Sweetened and flavoured with lumps of sugar 
 which have been rubbed upon the rinds of 
 sweet oranges. Pour the mixture into a sauce- 
 pan, and stir it briskly until it boils. Turn it 
 into a basin, and when cool add the well-beaten 
 yolks of three and the whites of flve eggs. Bake 
 in a souffle-dish, in a moderate oven. Tie a 
 broad band of well-oiled paper round the top to 
 prevent the batter falling over when it rises 
 high in the dish. Serve the souffle the moment 
 it is taken out of the oven, or it will fall and its 
 appearance be spoilt. Time to bake, half an 
 hour. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. 
 
 ORANGE SOUFFLE (another way). 
 
 Mix a dessert-spoonful of flour very smoothly 
 with half a pint of new milk or cream. Add the 
 eighth of a small nutmeg, grated, a table-spoon- 
 ful of orange-flower water, and the thin rind of 
 a sweet orange. Put the mixture into an 
 enamelled saucepan, and stir it over the fire 
 until it boils. Strain through coarse muslin, 
 and when nearly cold add four eggs well beaten, 
 two table-spoonfuls of brandy, and a heaped 
 table-spoonful of orange marmalade. Stir 
 briskly for two or three minutes, pour the souffle 
 into a buttered mould, and place the mould 
 in a cloth, without tying it, in a saucepan of 
 boiling water, being careful only that the water 
 in the pan is not sufficiently high to flow into the 
 
 mould. Pin a hot napkin round the mould be- 
 fore serving, and sprinkle pounded sugar over 
 the souffle. Time to boil, three-quarters of an 
 hour. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the 
 brandy. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 ORANGES, PICKLED. 
 
 Take half a dozen fine Seville oranges. Cut 
 them deeply, rub them well with salt, and let 
 them stand in a warm place for four or five days. 
 Sprinkle a table-spoonful of coriander-seeds 
 over them, and cover them with a pint and a half 
 of boiling vinegar in which two blades of mace 
 have been simmered for two minutes. Boil the 
 vinegar once or twice, and pour it again upon 
 the oranges, then cover the jar with bladder, and 
 store for use. This pickle ought to be kept fully 
 two months before it is used. It should be 
 served with wild fowl. Time, six or eight min- 
 utes to prepare. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 ORANGE SPONGE. 
 
 Put into a pan half a pint of hot water, a 
 table-spoonful of castor sugar, half an ounce of 
 leaf gelatine, and the thinly pared rind of two 
 oranges. Stir over the fire till the gelatine is 
 melted. Strain into a basin, and add the juice 
 of the two oranges. Let it cool a little, and add 
 the white of a raw egg. Whisk till it becomes a 
 stiff froth. Before it becomes quite stiff pour it 
 into a damp mould, put in a cool place, or on 
 ice, and when set turn it out. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 ORANGE SYRUP (for making Orangeade etc.). 
 
 Take a dozen sweet oranges and two bitter 
 ones. Eub off •the yellow rinds with a pound 
 of sugar in lumps, and boil this with as much 
 water as it will absorb until it is quite clear. 
 Strain the juice, add it to the syrup, and stir 
 the mixture over the fire for two or three min- 
 utes ; it must not boil after the juice is added. 
 Pour at once into bottles, and cork closely as 
 soon as the syrup is cold. As rubbing the rinds 
 of the oranges with sugar involves both time 
 and trouble, the syrup may be more easily made 
 as follows (the flavour, however, will not be 
 qiiite so fine). Cut off the yellow rinds of the 
 oranges as thin as possible, and be careful not 
 to take any of the white part. Barely cover 
 them with water, and let them simmer very 
 gently for half an hour. Strain the liquid, and 
 put it aside to cool. Squeeze and strain the 
 orange-juice, put it in a saucepan over a slow 
 fire for a few minutes, and carefully remove the 
 scum as it rises. Put a pound of sugar and a 
 table-spoonful of the liquid in which the peels 
 were boiled to each half-pint of juice, and 
 simmer all gently for ten or fifteen minutes. 
 Put the syrup at once into bottles, and when it 
 is cool cork closely. Probable cost. Is. per pint. 
 ORANGE TART OR TARTLETS. 
 
 Take two Seville oranges and double their 
 weight in refined sugar. Peel off the rinds 
 thinly, and boil in a little water until tender, 
 then pound them in a mortar, and mix with 
 them the pulp of the fruit which has been freed 
 from the pips and juice, the sugar, and half an 
 ounce of fresh butter. Line the edges of a tart- 
 dish with good puff-paste, put in the orange mix- 
 ture, cover the dish with crust, fasten the edges 
 securely, and bake in a moderate oven. Or, line 
 some patty-pans with puff-pastry, half fill them 
 
ORA 
 
 473 
 
 ORG 
 
 with the orange mixture, lay narrow strips of 
 pastry over them as an ornament, and bake as 
 before. Time to bake the tart, three-quarters 
 of an hour ; the tartlets, twenty minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, 6d. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 ORANGE-WATER ICE. 
 
 Eub the rind of two oranges with three or four 
 lumps of sugar until the yellow part is taken off, 
 and dissolve the lumps in a little warm syrup ; 
 if the rind is rubbed too hard the ice will be 
 bitter. Strain and stir into it the juice of six 
 oranges and a lemon, with half a pint of water, a 
 pint of clarified sugar and the flavoured syrup. 
 Mix thoroughly. Strain and freeze in the usual 
 way. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for a quart 
 of ice. 
 
 ORANGE WINE. 
 
 Orange wine, should be made in March. Boil 
 twenty-eight pounds of loaf sugar with eight 
 gallons of water, and the well-whisked whites 
 and crushed shells of four eggs. Remove the 
 scum as it rises, let the liquid cool, then add 
 the juice of ninety Seville oranges, and mix thor- 
 oughly. Strain the liquid, ferment it with half 
 a pound of yeast on a slice of toast, and let it 
 stand for twenty-four hours. Put it into a cask, 
 and when fermentation ceases, which will be 
 when it gives up hissing, bung the cask up 
 closely, 'rhe wine may be racked in three 
 months, and bottled in twelve. If it is desired 
 to add the flavour of the orange-peel to this 
 wine, though it will be more generally agree- 
 able without, infuse the rinds of fifty of the 
 oranges in two gallons of the clarified sugar for 
 four days, then strain the liquid, and add it to 
 the rest. If it is considered necessary to have 
 a little brandy in the wine, a quart may be put 
 into the cask with the liquid, and another quart 
 added when the wine is racked off. Time, half 
 an hour to boil the sugar. Probable cost, 2s. 2d. 
 per gallon, exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient 
 for ten gallons. 
 
 ORANGE WINE (an easy way of making). 
 
 In making orange ^ine it may be calculated 
 that ten Seville oranges and three pounds of loaf 
 sugar are required for every gallon of wine. If, 
 therefore, it is wished to make nine gallons of 
 wine, put the strained juice of ninety Seville 
 oranges and twenty-seven pounds of loaf sugar 
 into a cask which is perfectly sweet and dry. 
 Put the pulp from which the juice has been 
 squeezed into a large pan, and pour over it a 
 gallon and a half of water; let it stand for 
 twenty-four hours, then strain it into the cask. 
 If the flavour of the orange-rind is desired, 
 though the wine will be more generally agreeable 
 without it, peel half the oranges, and put the 
 thiu rinds into another pan; then pour over 
 them half the quantity of water which was on 
 the pulp, and let them also infuse twenty-four 
 hours, when strain the liquid into the cask. 
 Pour a gallon and a half of water again over the 
 pulp and rinds, let this stand for a day, 
 then add it to the rest; and repeat this per- 
 formance until the cask is quite full, which will 
 be in about a week. Stir the contents daily. 
 Three days after the cask is full, bung it up 
 closely, and bottle the wine in nine months. It 
 
 may be used after it has been bottled three 
 months. Time, ten days to make the wine. 
 Probable cost, 28. 2d. per gallon. Sufficient for 
 a nine-gallon cask. 
 
 ORGEAT ICE CREAM. 
 
 Take one ounce of sweet almonds and two or 
 three bitter ones. Blanch and pound them in a 
 mortar with a little orange-fiower water to pre- 
 vent them oiling. Add gradually a quarter of 
 a pound of powdered sugar, the well-beaten 
 yolks of eight eggs, and a pint of cream. Put 
 the mixture into an enamelled saucepan, and 
 stir it without ceasing until it begins to thicken. 
 Pour it out, stir it again until it is cold, then 
 freeze in the usual way. Time, five or six 
 minutes to stir the mixture over the fire. Prob- 
 able cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for a pint and a 
 half of ice cream. 
 
 ORGEAT OF MONTPELLIER. 
 
 Take one pound of barley, wash it and soak it 
 in water, and separate the grains well. Tie it 
 up in a piece of muslin, put it in a pot with a 
 quart of water, and set it on the fire to boil 
 gently for four hours. Then put into the water 
 one pound of sweet almonds, blanched and 
 skinned ; boil for a few minutes ; then take out 
 the barley and almonds ; pound them together in 
 a mortar; mix well with the water, strain all 
 together through a piece of linen, pound again 
 the residue, pour the water over, stir, and re- 
 peat the straining. This water should now look 
 very thick. Ada one pound of pounded sugar, 
 and boil to a syrup. Try the syrup by dropping 
 some on a plate; if it remains like paste it is 
 done. Take it off the fire, and flavour with 
 orange-flower or other flavouring. Bottle and 
 keep for use. To make the drink, put two 
 table-spoonfuls into a decanter, pour fresh water 
 over, shake to mix well, and it is ready to drink 
 immediately. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 ORGEAT, OR ALMOND MILK (a refreshing drinl<). 
 Take two ounces of Jordan almonds and four 
 bitter ones. Blanch them, put them into a 
 mortar with two ounces of powdered sugar, and 
 pound them to a smooth paste, and whilst 
 pounding them keep dropping half a tea-spoon- 
 ful of cold water on them to prevent oiling. 
 Put them into a basin, and pour gradually over 
 them a pint of cold water, stir them for three oi 
 four minutes, cover them over, and leave them 
 in a cool place for two hours. Strain the liquid 
 through a napkin into a glass jug, and put it, if 
 possible, in ice until wanted for use. Before 
 serving, mix with the almond milk an equal 
 proportion of cold water. Orgeat should be 
 made the day it is used, as it will not keep sweet 
 long. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for a pint 
 of orgeat. {See also Almond Syeup.) 
 
 ORGEAT, SYRUP OF (for flavouring Sauces, Cream, 
 etc.). 
 Take half a pound of sweet almonds and two 
 ounces of bitter ones. Blanch and pound them 
 in a mortar, and whilst pounding keep adding a 
 few drops of orange-flower water to prevent oil- 
 ing, stir in by degrees two pints of cold water ; 
 add two pounds and" a half of powdered and 
 sifted sugar, two ounces of orange-flower water, 
 and a tea-spoonful of the essence of lemon. Put 
 the mixture into a warm place for five or six 
 
ORL 
 
 474 
 
 ORT 
 
 hours, then boil for ten minutes. Strain 
 through a calico bag, and press out all the miUc 
 of the almonds. If the syrup is not sufficiently 
 thick, it should be boiled again on the following 
 day. When it is cold, bottle for use. Prob- 
 able cost, 2s. Sufficient for two quarts of 
 orgeat. 
 
 ORLEANS PLUM. 
 
 : This is a handsome fruit which takes its name 
 from a district in France. It is not so good as 
 it looks, but is more cultivated than even the 
 greengage, which is both the most agreeable and 
 the most wholesome of all the plums. 
 
 ORLEANS PLUMS (to bottle for winter use). ~ 
 
 Have in -readiness some perfectly clean and 
 dry wide-necked bottles. Pick the fruit, which 
 must be sound and freshly gathered, rub it well 
 with a soft cloth, taking care not to injure the 
 skins, and put it into the bottles; fill ttese up 
 with a syrup made by boiling three-quarters of 
 a pound of sugar with half a piiit' of water for 
 ten minutes. Cork the bottles closely, tie a 
 piece of moistened bladder over them, and put 
 them in a large pan of water over a gentle fire. 
 Let the water boil for a quarter of an hour, then 
 lift the pan off the fire, leaving the bottles in 
 the vessel until the , water is cold.' Store the 
 fruit in a dry place. Probable cost of plums, 
 3d. to 6d. per pound. 
 
 ORLEANS PUDDING. 
 
 Put one ounce of gelatine into a basin with a 
 quarter of a pint of cold water, and let it soak 
 for half an hour. Whisk the yolks of five eggs 
 thoroughly, and add very gradually a pint of 
 hot milk or cream, and six ounces of powdered 
 sugar. Put the custard into an enalnelled 
 saucepan over a gentle fire, and stir^ until it 
 begins to thicken ; add the soaked gelatine, and 
 stir until this is dissolved. Put half an 
 ounce of picked currants, half an ounce of 
 stoned raisins, and an ounce of finely-minced 
 candied peel into a saucepan with a quarter of a 
 pint of brandy, and simmer gently for twenty 
 minutes. Oil a plain round mould; spread a 
 thin layer of cream at the bottom, say about 
 half ail inch in thickness ; strew a little of the 
 fruit upon this, and let it set, and then a layer 
 of Naples Biscuits finely crumbled, and a layer 
 of crushed ratafias. Repeat until the mould is 
 full. Put the pudding into a cool place until it 
 is firmly set; if possible, place it in ice._ Turn 
 it on a dish, and garnish with drjed cherries and 
 strips of candied peel. Time, ten minutes to 
 thicken the pudding. Probable tost, exclusive 
 of the brandy, 2s. Sufficient for five or Six 
 persons. 
 
 ORTOLANS. 
 
 These birds, though small and veiy rare, are 
 much esteemed by epicures for the delicacy of 
 their flesh. They are in season from November 
 to February. ■ 
 
 ORTOLANS ON TOAST. 
 
 Truss some ortolans in the same manner as 
 woodcock (see Woodcock, Teussed), lay.them on 
 toast, and bake in a fairly lot oven for twenty- 
 five minutes. Dish up on the toast, and serve 
 with good brown gravy that has had the juice 
 of an orange squeezed in. 
 
 ORTOLANS, POTTED. 
 
 Cut off the necks, heads, and legs of some 
 ortolans, and season the birds with pepper, salt, 
 and grated nutmeg. Prepare some chicken force- 
 meat — the quantity to be regulated by the size- 
 of the potting-pan and the number of ortolans. 
 Spread a layer of forcemeat at the bottom of 
 
 ORLEANS PUDDING. 
 
 the pan, place an ortolan upon it, and then 
 some more forcemeat, and continue until the 
 pan is full, remembering only that the topmost' 
 layer should consist of forcemeat. Lay some 
 thin slices of fat bacon on the top, put on the 
 cover, and bake in a moderate oven. Two or 
 three truffles finely minced and spread upon the 
 layers of forcemeat are a great improvement to 
 this dish. To 1)6 served cold. Time to b^ke, 
 one hour. 
 
 ORTOLANS, RAGOUT OF. 
 
 Cut up into small pieces any remains from 
 roasted ortolans, lay them in the surplus gravy, 
 and stew for about ten or twelve minutes. Then 
 add a few chopped button mushrooms, and serve 
 with spinach. 
 
 ORTOLANS, ROASTED. 
 
 Truss the ortolans without drawing them. 
 Lay first a vine-leaf and then a thin slice of 
 bacon over the breast of each, and tie the leaf 
 and bacon on with string. Put the birds down 
 to a brisk fire, and baste them liberally. Dish 
 upon toast which has been placed under them 
 whilst they were roasting, and garnish the dish 
 with water-cress. Send orange-flavoured gravy 
 to table in a tureen. Time, twenty-five minutes 
 to roast. Probable cost, uncertain, ortolans be- 
 ing seldom offered for sale. Sufficient, half a 
 dozen for six persons. 
 
 ORTOLANS, STEWED, WITH TRUFFLES. 
 
 Take as many large even-sized truffles as there 
 are ortolans. Make a large round hole in the 
 middle of each truffle, and put in it a little 
 chicken forcemeat. Cut off the heads, necks, 
 and feet of the ortolans, season the birds with a 
 little salt and pepper, and lay each on its 
 back in one of the truffles. Arr'ange them side 
 by side in a deep stewpan, lay thin slices of 
 bacon upon them, pour over them in equal pro- 
 portions as much good stock and Madeira as 
 will cover them, and simmer them very gently 
 for. twenty-five minutes. Dish the ortolans and 
 the truffles on toast, and pile them high in the 
 dish. Stiain the gravy, thicken it to the 
 
OUD 
 
 475 
 
 oxc 
 
 consistency of cream, and pour it over the birds. 
 Sufficient, half a dozen for four persons. 
 
 OUDE CURRY. 
 
 Take any cold meat—beef, mutton, game, or 
 poultry, and divide it into convenient-sized 
 pieces. Cut a large Spanish onion into thin 
 slices; fry these in four ounces of butter, and 
 pour over them a quarter of a pint of good 
 gravy. Mi:? a small table-spoonful of curry- 
 powder smoothly with the sauce ; add the pieces 
 of meat, and simmer all gently together for two 
 hours. Before serving the curry, add a dessert- 
 spoonful of strained lemon-juice. Probable 
 cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold meat. SufScient 
 for four persons. 
 
 OUDE SAUCE FOR COLD MEAT. 
 
 Mince two onions very finely. Fry them in 
 two ounces of clarified butter, and stir them 
 about until they are lightly browned without 
 being burnt. Add half a dozen chillies cut into 
 small pieces, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of salt, 
 and one ounce of the flesh of a dried haddock 
 which has been torn into flakes with two forks. 
 Stir all well together for three or four minutes, 
 and whilst stirring add, in small quantities at 
 a time, a dessert-spoonful of strained lemon- 
 juice, two table-spoonfuls of tomato-pulp, and 
 a little water., .When the sauce is as thick 
 as paste it is ready for serving. It should be 
 made the day on which it is to be used. 
 Time, altogether, about twenty mi'nutes. 
 Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 OVEN, AMERICAN. 
 
 (See American Oven.) 
 ox BRAINS (en Matelote). 
 
 Take half a dozen button-onions, put them 
 whole into a stewpan with an ounce and a half 
 of fresh butter, and move them about until they 
 are soft and yellow. Dredge a dessert-spoonful 
 of fiour over them, and moisten with nearly half 
 a pint of good stock and a glassful of red wine. 
 Add a few sprigs of parsley, a sprig of winter 
 savoury, a bay-leaf, a tea-spoonful of salt, half 
 a salt-spoonful of cayenne, half a blade of mace, 
 and three or four small mushrooms if they are 
 at hand. Simmer the sauce gently for half an 
 hour. Clean the ox brains very carefully, and 
 remove all the skin and fibrous parts. Lay 
 them in lukewarm water to soak, then take 
 them up and drain them, put them into the 
 sauce, and let them simmer gently for half an 
 hour. Serve on a hot dish; remove the herbs 
 from the sauce, ^nd pour it upon the brains. 
 Probable cost, exclusive of the wine. Is. 6d. 
 Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 OX BRAINS, FRIED. 
 
 Wash carefully in two or three waters, re- 
 move all the blood, skin, and fibre, and lay 
 the brains in warm water to blancR. Put 
 them into boiling salt and water, and simmer 
 gently for half an hour. Drain them, make 
 them into balls' the size of a small egg, dip them 
 into beaten egg and finely-grated bread-crumbs, 
 and fry them in plenty of hot fat until they are 
 brightly browned all over. Place them on a 
 hot dish, squeeze tie juice of half a small lemon 
 over them, and garnish with slices of cut lemon 
 
 and parsley. Time to fry, ten minutes. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 3d. 
 
 ox CHEEK, BAKED. 
 
 Wash a large fresh ox cheek in two or three 
 waters, then let it soak for some hours in cold 
 water. Drain it well, and put it into lukewarm 
 water, let it boil, skim the liquid carefully, 
 and simmer the cheek gently for a couple of 
 hours. Take it up, remove the bones, lay the 
 cheek on a flat board, and spread upon it a layer 
 of good veal forcemeat. Roll it firmly, bind 
 securely with tape, and bake in a moderate 
 oven. Place it on a hot dish, remove the tapes, 
 and send tomato, piquant, or good brown 
 sauce, to table with it. Time, one hour and a 
 half to bake the cheek. Probable cost, 6d. per 
 pound. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. 
 
 OX CHEEK, BOILED. 
 
 Many excellent and economical : dishes may 
 be made from an ox cheek, which is highly gela- 
 tinous and nourishing, , and often proves very 
 useful in large families. Take a moderate- 
 sized ox cheek, or half a large one. Wash care- 
 fully, and soak it in cold water for five or six 
 hours. Drain it, rub it well with a table-spoon- 
 ful of salt and a tea-spoonful of pepper, and put 
 it^into a .large pan with four quarts of cold 
 water, , two or three sticks of celery, and two 
 cnions. When the contents boJlj skim carefully, 
 draw the pan to the side of the fire, and simmer 
 very gently until the meat is quite tender, which 
 will be in three hours from the time of boiling. 
 Place the head on a . dish with a little of the 
 gravy, and send turnips, carrots, and potatoes to 
 table with it. The liquor will make excellent 
 broth. Probable cost, 6d. per pound. Suf- 
 ficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 OX CHEEK, COLD. 
 
 Cut into neat slices the remains of an ox 
 cheek which has been boiled until quite tender. 
 Arrange these on a dish, and pour over them a 
 sauce prepared as follows. Beat the yolk of an 
 egg for two or, three minutes, then naix with it 
 half a teaTspponful of made mustard, a pinch of 
 pepper and salt, eight table-spoonfuls of oil, 
 and two table-spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar. 
 The oil should be put in first in very small 
 quantities at a time, and the sauce should be 
 well beaten between each addition, or the oil 
 will not mix well. Garnish the dish with pars- 
 ley, and send bread and butter to table with it. 
 Time, half an hour to beat the sauce. Probable 
 cost, 8d., exclusive of the cold meat. 
 
 OX CHEEK, POTTED (a breakfast or supper dish). 
 Pick the meat from an ox cheek which has 
 been simmered until it is quite tender.* Mince 
 it very finely, and mix with it a tea-spoonful of 
 salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, a quarter of 
 a nutmeg, grated, and a table-spoonful of 
 powdered thyme. Put it in a plain mould, cover 
 with a dish, and place a weight upon the top. 
 Serve cold.. Time, four hours to simmer the ox 
 cheek. Probable cost, 6d. per pound. Suf- 
 ficient, for six or eight persons. 
 
 OX CHEEK, SLICED AND FRIED. 
 
 Cut into neat slices the remains of a cold ox 
 cheek which has been boiled or stewed until 
 quite tender, and dip these into egg and bread- 
 
oxc 
 
 476 
 
 OXF 
 
 crumbs, grate a little nutmeg over them, and 
 fry them in hot fat till they are lightly browned. 
 Serve on a hot dish, and garnish with slices of 
 lemon. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable 
 cost of ox cheek, 6d. per pound. 
 
 OX CHEEK SOUP. 
 
 Wash an ox cheek thoroughly in lukewarm 
 water, then put it into a large saucepan with 
 two ounces of lean ham, an onion stuck with 
 twelve cloves, a turnip, two carrots, three or 
 four sticks of celery, a tea-spoonful of pepper- 
 corns, a blade of mace, a bunch of parsley, a 
 small sprig of thyme, a table-spoonful of salt, a 
 bay-leaf, and three quarts of water. Bring the 
 liquid to a boil, remove the scum as it rises, then 
 draw the pan to the side of the fire, and simmer 
 gently for four hours. Take up the cheek, cut 
 off about half a pound of the meat in slices half 
 an inch thick, and put it back into the broth. 
 Mix two table-spoonfuls of ground rice or plain 
 flour with two table-spoonfuls of mushroom 
 ketchup and half a table-spoonful of soy; 
 add this to the soup, and simmer it an hour 
 longer. Turn a large carrot and turnip into 
 various fancy shapes, according to taste, peel 
 and trim neatly a quarter of a pint of button- 
 onions, cut the slices of ox cheek into inch- 
 square pieces, and fry all these in hot butter 
 until they are tender and lightly browned. 
 Strain the soup, return it to the pan with the 
 fried vegetables, etc., boil them together for 
 ten or fifteen minutes, and serve. Time alto- 
 gether, six hours. Probable cost. Is. per quart. 
 Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. 
 
 OX CHEEK, STEWED. 
 
 Prepare the ox cheek as in the last recipe. 
 Let it simmer for two hours, then take it up, 
 drain it, and put the liquid aside to cool. Re- 
 move the thick layer of fat which will collect on 
 the top, and put the soup back into the pan 
 with the ox cheek. Let it boil once more, then 
 add a large onion with six cloves stuck in it, a 
 basinful of mixed vegetables cut into small 
 pieces, and consisting of three turnips, three" 
 carrots, two leeks, three sticks of celery, two or 
 three sprigs of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, 
 two bay-leaves, a blade of mace, half a tea- 
 spoonful of peppercorns, and a little more salt, 
 if required. Simmer two hours longer. Take 
 up the meat, cut it into neat slices. Strain the 
 gravy. Thicken one pint and a half of it with 
 a little butter rolled in flour, and serve the slices 
 in a dish with the sauce poured over them. A 
 glassful of red wine may be stirred into this 
 sauce, or it may be drawn from the fire for a 
 minute or two, and then mixed with the well- 
 beaten yolks of two eggs; or a little lemon- 
 juice may be squeezed over the meat, and the 
 sauce poured over afterwards. Probable cost of 
 ox cheek, 6d. per pound. Sufficient for half a 
 dozen persons. 
 
 OX EYES. 
 
 Cut some slices of stale bread three-quarters 
 of an inch in thickness. Toast them, stamp 
 them in rounds three inches in diameter, and 
 take out of the middle of each round a smaller 
 round one inch and a half in diameter ; be care- 
 ful to leave the rings firm and unbroken. Place 
 them on a well-buttered dish, and let them soak 
 
 in sour cream until they are soft, then lay a raw 
 egg in the middle of each ring. Sprinkle a little 
 salt and pepper over them and put a tea-spoon- 
 ful of milk on each egg. Put them in a hot 
 oven, and let them remain until the whites are 
 set, but they must not brown. Garnish with 
 water-cress. Time, ten minutes to set the 
 eggs. If liked, the bread can be floured well 
 and fried in fat. The eggg may then be poached 
 separately. Probable cost of half a dozen ox 
 eyes, 8d. 
 OXFORD BISHOP. 
 
 Rub three ounces of sugar in lumps on the 
 rind of a fresh lemon until all the yellow part 
 is taken off. Put the pieces of sugar into a jug, 
 and strain over them half the lemon-juice. Score 
 the rind of another lemon or of a Seville orange, 
 stick into it half a dozen cloves, and roast it 
 before a slow fire. Put a salt-spoonful each of 
 cloves, allspice, cinnamon, ginger, and mace 
 into a saucepan, with half a pint of water, and 
 simmer very gently for half an hour. Pour the 
 liquid, without straining it, upon the roasted 
 lemon, add the flavoured sugar, and a bottle of 
 good port from which part of the spirit has 
 been burnt out. Stir the mixture over the fire 
 for a few minutes, and serve hot, with the spices 
 and lemon in the punch. Probable cost, ex- 
 clusive of the port, 6d. Sufficient for a pint and 
 a half of punch. 
 
 OXFORD DUMPLINGS OR PUDDINGS. 
 
 Shred a quarter of a pound of kidney suet 
 very finely. Add a pinch of salt, two ounces of 
 stale bread-crumbs, two ounces of dried flour, 
 four ounces of picked and dried currants, two 
 table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, a table-spoonful 
 of minced lemon-rind, and half a nutmeg, 
 grated. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. 
 Moisten them to a stiff paste with a little milk 
 and two well-beaten eggs, divide the mixture 
 into dumplings, and fry them in hot fat until 
 they are lightly browned. Serve with wine 
 sauce. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons 
 
 OXFORD GRACE CUP. 
 
 Take the peel of a lemon, extract the juice of 
 the fruit, and cut the peel into thin slices. Put it 
 in a bowl or jug, pour over it a pint and a half of 
 strong home-brewed ale, and a bottle of sherry; 
 grate a nutmeg into the cup ; sweeten to taste ; 
 stir till the sugar is dissolved, and then add 
 three or four slices of bread, toasted brown. Set 
 it on one side for two hours before straining off. 
 
 OXFORD JOHN, MUTTON. 
 
 Cut one pound and a half of very thin col- 
 lops from a well-kept leg of mutton. Free them 
 entirely from skin and sinew, season them with 
 pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and dip them 
 into a mixture composed of two table-spoonfuls 
 of chopped parsley, a tea-spoonful of powdered 
 thyme, and a tea-spoonful of finely-minced shal- 
 lots. Fry the seasoned coUops in three ounces 
 of butter, and when they are lightly browned on 
 both sides, cover them with good" brown gravy, 
 and add a piece of butter, rolled thickly in flour, 
 and a tea-spoonful of strained lemon- juice. Let 
 them remain on the fire a few minutes until the 
 savice is on the point of boiling, then turn them 
 on a hot dish, and serve with sippets. If the 
 
OXF 
 
 477 
 
 OXP 
 
 ooUops are allowed to boil they will prove hard. 
 Time, half an hour. Probable cost. Is. 8d. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 OXFORD PANCAKES. 
 
 Mix three table-spoonfuls of flour very 
 smoothly with three well-beaten eggs, and half 
 a pint of new milk. Add a pinch of salt, an 
 ounce and a half of butter, a table-spoonful of 
 sugar, and the eighth of » nutmeg, grated. 
 Fry the pancakes as thin as possible in hot fat. 
 Sift powdered sugar over them when they are on 
 the dish, and send a cut lemon to table with 
 them. These pancakes should be made an hour 
 or two before they are wanted. Time to fry, 
 four or five minutes. Probable cost 6d. Suf- 
 ficient for three or four persons. 
 
 OXFORD PUDDING. 
 
 Wash six ounces of best Carolina rice in two 
 or three waters. Drain it well, and put it into 
 a pudding-cloth, with three ounces of picked 
 currants, or, if preferred, two large apples, • 
 pared, cored, and sliced, and a little grated 
 nutmeg. Tie the cloth loosely to give the rice 
 room to swell, and let the pudding boil quickly 
 until done enough. Serve with sweet sauce. 
 Time to boil, two hours. Probable cost, 4d. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 OXFORD PUNCH. 
 
 Kub the rind of three fresh lemons with half 
 a pound of loaf sugar, in lumps, until all the 
 yellow part is taken off. Put the sugar into a 
 large jug with the thin rind of a Seville orange 
 and a lemon, the strained juice of three Sevifle 
 oranges and eight lemons, and a pint of liquid 
 calf's foot jelly. Mix these ingredients thor- 
 oughly. Pour over them two quarts of boiling 
 water, and set the jug which contains them on 
 the hob for twenty minutes. Strain the mix- 
 ture into a punch-bowl, and when it is cool, 
 mix with it a bottle of capillaire (an infusion of 
 maidenhair fern, flavoured with sugar- and 
 orange-flower water) a pint of brandy, a pint of 
 rum, half a pint of light wine, and a quart of 
 orange shrxib. Sufficient for nearly a gallon of 
 punch. 
 
 OXFORD SAUSAGES. 
 
 Mince very finely one pound of lean veal, one 
 pound of lean pork, and one pound of beef suet. 
 Add three tea-spoonfuls of salt, half a tea-spoon- 
 ful of cayenne, a tea-spoonful of pepper, and 
 half a pound of stale roll, which has been 
 crumbled and soaked in butter for two or three 
 minutes. Three-parts fill the prepared skins 
 with the mixture, and fry them before serving. 
 If it is preferred that the sausages should be 
 seasoned, add the finely-minced rind of half 
 a lemon, a nutmeg, grated, a table-spoonful 
 of powdered sage, and a small tea-spoon- 
 ful of lemon thyme, sweet marjoram, and basil. 
 A chopped anchovy is by some persons con- 
 sidered an improvement; but, generally speak- 
 ing, the sausages are preferred plain. Time to 
 fry, ten or fifteen minutes. Probable cost, lOd. 
 per pound. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. 
 
 OXFORD SAUSAGES, WITHOUT SKINS (Theodore 
 Hook's recipe). 
 Take a pound and a half of pork from the 
 giiskin, freed entirely from skin, a pound and a 
 
 half of beef suet, and half a pound of lean veal. 
 Mince all very finely, separately at first, and 
 afterwards together. Mix thoroughly, as the 
 excellence of the sausages depends in a great 
 measure upon the mixing. Season with three 
 small tea-spoonfuls of salt, one tea-spoonful of 
 pepper, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of cayenne, 
 ana a dessert-spoonful of dried, powdered, and 
 sifted sage, and bind the mixture together with 
 five well-beaten eggs. Press the meat into a 
 stone jar, and keep it in a cool place. It will 
 remain good for two or three days in summer, 
 and nearly a week in winter. When wanted 
 for use, roll the mixture into the usual shape, or 
 into balls, on a floured board, and fry the 
 sausages before serving. Time, ten or fifteen 
 minutes to fry. Probable cost. Is. per pound. 
 Sufficient for eight or ten persons. 
 
 OX HEART, BAKED. 
 
 Wash the heart in several waters. Cut away 
 the lobes, and let it soak for three hours in 
 vinegar and water. Drain, and slice into thin 
 steaks cut the long way of the heart. Grease a 
 pie-dish, and lay some sliced potatoes at the 
 bottom of it. Put two or three rashers of 
 bacon on these, then the heart, then bacon 
 again, and afterwards more potatoes, and re- 
 peat until the dish is full, being careful to put 
 potatoes on the top of all. Dredge a little pep- 
 per over each layer as it is put in, and salt if 
 required. This will depend upon the quality of 
 the bacon. Pour half a pint of water over the 
 whole, and bake in a moderate oven. A little 
 browning added to the gravy will improve the 
 appearance.- Time to bake, one hour and a 
 half. (See Heart, Bullock's.) 
 
 OX HEEL STOCK FOR JELLY. 
 
 Follow the directions given in Calf's Foot 
 Stock fob Jelly. 
 
 ox kidney. 
 
 (See Kidney, Ox, Stewed^) 
 
 OX LIVER, TO CURE AND PRESERVE, FOR 
 GRAVY. 
 
 Mix half a pound of moist sugar with two 
 table-spoonfuls of salt. Pub the liver well with 
 this mixture, lay it in a shallow pan, "and turn it 
 and rub it every day for a week. Make a 
 pickle by boiling a pound of salt and an ounce 
 and a half of saltpetre in a gallon of water for 
 a quarter of an hour. Pour it when cold over 
 the liver, and let the liver remain in the pickle 
 for six weeks, turning it every other day. Take 
 it out, drain it well, and hang it in a cool place. 
 When dry, it is ready for use. The liver should 
 be cured in cold weather. When gravy is re- 
 quired, cut about four ounces of the liver into 
 thin slices. Pour over them a pint of cold water 
 and any flavouring that may be wished, and 
 simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour. 
 Strain and serve. Salt will not be needed. 
 Probable cost of liver, 9d. per pound. 
 
 OX PALATES. 
 
 Ox palates may be served in three or four 
 different ways, but they always require the 
 same preparation. They deserve to be better 
 known than they are, as they are both inex- 
 pensive and wholesome. Three or four are 
 enough for a dish. To prepare them, dissolve 
 
OXP 
 
 478 
 
 OXT 
 
 a handful of salt in a gallon of lukewarm water, 
 put in the palates, let them lie for several hours, 
 and press them frequently with the fingers to 
 draw out the mucus. Drain them, and put them 
 in a saucepan of cold water over a, gentle fire. 
 Let them heat gradually, and before the water 
 boils lift them out and scrape off the horny skin 
 which covers the roof-part, until they look white 
 and clear. If the water boils, the skin will be 
 difficult to peel off. 
 
 OX PALATES, CURRIED. 
 
 Soak and boil three ox palates as before 
 directed. Press them between dishes, and when 
 cold cut them, into pieces an inch and a half 
 square. Put three sliced onions and one apple 
 into a stewpan with two ounces of butter. 
 Cover them closely and let them steam until 
 they are tender, but they must not brown. Mix 
 a dessert-spoonful of curry-powder very smoothly 
 with half a pint of good gravy. Pour this into 
 the saucepan, and add a tea-spoonful of vinegar, 
 a dessert-spoonful of brandy, a small lump of 
 sugar, a little salt and pepper if required, and 
 the sliced palates. Simmer gently for half an 
 hour, then take out the palates, and strain the 
 gravy. Mix a dessert-spoonful of ground rice 
 very smoothly with a table-spoonful of mush- 
 room ketchup. Thicken the gravy with this, 
 put in the palates again, and boil gently half 
 an hour longer. Serve the palates on a hot dish, 
 with a border of rice boiled as for curry round 
 it. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 OX PALATES, GRILLED. 
 
 Prepare four ox palates as befsre directed. 
 Put them into a stewpan with as much water or 
 stock as will cover them, and let them boil until 
 they are quite tender, then drain them, and press 
 them between two dishes until they are cold. 
 Cut them in slices two inches long and half an 
 inch wide, lay these in a pie-dish, and cover 
 them with a marinade made of a quarter of a 
 pint of vinegar, two table-spoonfuls of sweet-oil, 
 half a tea-spoonful of pepper, a spoonful of 
 salt, a bunch of parsley, half a dozen chives, 
 and two or three bay-leaves. When they have 
 soaked in this for an hour or two; drain them, 
 cover them with crumbs of bread, and fry them 
 in hot fat until they become brown. Or, after 
 they are taken out of the marinade, make a 
 paste by mixing a heaped table-spoonful of flour 
 very smoothly with the well-bealien yolks of two 
 eggs, and adding a table-spoonful of salad-oil, 
 a little salt and pepper, and a glassful of sherry. 
 Dip the slices of palate in this batter, and fry 
 them as before. Drain the fat catefully from 
 them, and serve them in a circle on a hot dish. 
 Send piquant or tomato sauce to table with 
 them. Time, four hours to boil the palates; five 
 minutes to fry them. Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 OX PALATES, STEWED. 
 
 Prepare and boil three palates as before 
 directed. Cut them into pieces, and place them 
 in a stewpan with three-quarters of a pint of 
 brown gravy, and a wine-glassful of sherry or 
 port. Let them simmer gently for half an hour, 
 then thicken the gravy with a little ftce-flour, 
 and serve very hot. Ox tails may be stewed 
 and dished with the ox palates. The slices of 
 palate are sometimes larded and lightly browned 
 
 before being stewed. Time to boil the palates, 
 four hours. Sufficient for three persons. 
 OX PALATES, WITH MACARONI. 
 
 Skin and boil three palates as before directed. 
 Press them between two dishes, and when cold 
 cut the best part into slices two inches long 
 and half an inch wide. Put them into a stew- 
 pan, cover them with nicely-seasoned gravy, 
 add a glassful of sherry, and simmer very 
 gently for half an hour. Pile half a pound of 
 hot macaroni in the middle of a dish, arrange 
 the sliced palates round it, and send to table in 
 a tureen the gravy in which they were stewed. 
 Time, four hours to boil the palates. Sufficient 
 for four persons. 
 OX, SECTIONAL DIAGRAM OF THE. 
 
 {See illustration in connection with the article 
 on Bbi!f.) 
 OX TAIL, BREADED AND BROILED. 
 
 This is an excellent way of setvingj the re- 
 mains of stewed ox tails. If made with fresh 
 meat, joint and cut up the tails, put them into 
 boiling water, and let them simmer for a 
 quarter of an hour, then soak them in cold 
 water for one hour. Take them up, drain them, 
 and put them into a saucepan with as much 
 broth or water as will cover them, and let them 
 stev,' until tender; then lift them out carefully, 
 and when they are cold season them with pepper 
 and salt, and sprinkle over them a little finely- 
 minced parsley and shallot. Dip them in egg 
 and bread-crumbs, then in clarified butter, and 
 again in egg and bread-crumbs, and broil on a 
 gridiron until they are brightly browned all 
 over; or, if more convenient, place them in a 
 dripping-tin with a little clarified butter, and 
 let them bake until they are brightly browned. 
 They may be dished on mashed spinach, mashed 
 potatoes, or stewed cabbage, or, if preferred, 
 served without vegetables, with piquant sauce, 
 tomato sauce, shallot gravy, or Tartar sauce, 
 in a.tureen. Time, about two hours to stew the 
 tails; three or four minutes to broil them; 
 twenty minutes to bake them. Probable cost, 
 from Is. to 2s. each. Sufficient, two tails for 
 five or six persons. 
 OX TAIL, HARICOT OF. 
 
 Take two fresh ox tails, joint them, and divide 
 them into convenient-sized pieces. Put them 
 into boiling water, and let them simmer for a 
 quarter of an hour ; then take them up; drain 
 them, and trim them neatly. Cover the bottom 
 of a stewpan with any trimmings of meat or 
 poultry that may be at hand ; put in the pieces 
 of ox tail, and with them a large onion stuck 
 with four cloves, a few sticks of celery, a large 
 bunch of parsley, a bay-leaf, a piece of garRc 
 the size rof a small pea, a quarter of a blade of 
 mace, a tea-spoonful of salt, a dozen pepper- 
 corns, and two quarts of water or stock. Let 
 them boil, then simmer gently until the meat 
 will, part easily from the bone. Carefully lift 
 out the pieces of ox tail, and put them aside; 
 strain the gravy, and return it to the saucepan. 
 When it boils thicken with a little flour and 
 butter, and put into it half a pound of carrots 
 and half a pound of turnips neatly shaped, and 
 six or eight medium-sized onions. Boil gently 
 until the vegetables are tender, skim the sauce 
 
OXT 
 
 479 
 
 OXT 
 
 carefully, and put in. the pieces of ox tail. Add 
 a little more salt and pepper if required, and a 
 table-spoonful of browning; simmei; ten min- 
 utes longer, and serve very hbt. A pint of white 
 haricot beans is a great improvement . to this 
 dish. They should' be put to soak the day before 
 they are wanted, and boiled separately in plenty 
 of water until tender ; then, drained, and put as 
 a border round the dish in which the, stew is 
 served. Time, two hojirs and. a half or more to 
 boil the tails.. Probable cost of tails. Is. to 2s. 
 each. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. 
 
 OX TAIL HOTCH-POTCH. 
 
 (See Hotch-potch, Ox Tail.) 
 
 OX TAILS (k la Saint Lambert). 
 
 Scald the tails in hot water, disjoint them, 
 and put them into a saucepan with some slices 
 of bacon, two carrots, two turnips, a head of 
 celery, two onions, a bunch of mixed herbs, salt 
 and pepper, and sufficient water to cover. When 
 boiled tender take out the tails, remove the 
 bunch of herbs, strain the liquor, make a puree 
 of the vegetables by passing them through a 
 sieve and adding them to the liquor; pour the 
 whole over the tails, and serve. Probable cost. 
 Is. to 2s. each, according to size. 
 
 OX TAIL, SIMPLE MODE OF COOKING. 
 
 , Take a fresh ox tail, joint it, and cut it into 
 pieces about two inches long. Roll the pieces in 
 flour, place them side by side in a baking-dish, 
 and sprinkle over them a little pepper and salt, 
 a finely-minced onion, and a table-spoonful of 
 chopped parsley. Pour a pint of stofck or water 
 upon them, and bake in a moderate oven. Serve 
 on a hot dish with the gravy upon them. Time 
 to bake, three hours and a half. Probable cost 
 of ox tail. Is. to 2s. Sufficient foT three 
 persons. 
 
 OX TAIL SOUP, CLEAR. 
 
 Cut a fine fresh ox tail into pieces an inch 
 long, and divide the thick part into four. Wash 
 these pieces, and throw them into boiling water 
 for a quarter of an hour; then drain, and wipe 
 them with a soft cloth. Put them into a stew- 
 pan with two carrots, an onion stuck with three 
 cloves, a sprig of parsley, a small piece of thyme, 
 two or three sticks of celery, half a blade of 
 mace, a tea-spoonful of salt, six or eight pepper- 
 corns, and a quart of water or clear stock. , Boil, 
 remove the scum carefully as it rises, then draw 
 the saucepan to the side of the fire, and simmer 
 very gently until the meat is tender. Lift out 
 the pieces of ox tail, strain the soup, and if it 
 is not clear and bright clarify it according to 
 the directions given in Clear Soup (madepkom 
 bones). Turn three carrots, and two turnips, 
 into any small shapes that may be preferred, or 
 into thin shreds an inch long, being careful only 
 that they are all of the same size. Other vege- 
 tables may be used as well as turiiips and carrots 
 — such as French beans, green" peas, asparagus, 
 celery, or onions. Put these into a saucepan, 
 pour the clarified stock over them, and simmer 
 gently until the vegetables are tender. Heat 
 the pieces of ox tail, pour the soup upon them, 
 and serve as hot as possible. Time, about three 
 hours to simmer the 'ox tail. Probable cost, 2s. 
 Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 OX TAIL SOUP, THICK. 
 
 This soup. is, of course, much better if made 
 with stock instead of water. If no stock is at 
 hand, two-pennyworth of fresh bones simmered 
 gently with' three quarts of water for six hours, 
 and carefully skimmed, will make nearly two 
 quarts of very good stock ; or, if preferred, it 
 can be made from' Bovril. Take two fine ox 
 tails, wash them, cut them into pieces about an 
 inch long, and divide the thick pieces into four. 
 Put them into a stewpan with two ounces of 
 fresh butter, and fry them until ■ they are 
 brightly browned. Slice some vegetables — two 
 c&rrots, one turnip, two onions, and half a dozen 
 sticks of celery, and fry them in the same butter, 
 and with them two ounces of lean ham cut into 
 dice. Pour' over them a quart of water, and 
 stir them over a quick fire for a quarter of an 
 hour ; then add two quarts of stock, a bunch of 
 sweet herbs, a bay-leaf, a dessert-spoonful of 
 salt, half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, three 
 cloves, and a lump of 'sugar. Simmer gently until 
 the meat is tender and parts easily from the 
 bones, then take it out, strain the soup, skim the 
 fat from the top of the liquid, brown it in a 
 saucepan, and mix smoothly with it two ounces 
 of fine flour. Thicken, the soup with this, and 
 flavour it with two table-spoonfuls of inushroom 
 ketchup, add the pieces of tail, simmer a 
 quarter of an hour longer, and serve. If pre- 
 ferred, the vegetables may be crushed throHgrh a 
 colander, and added to the soup iii the'form of a 
 puree. A glassful of port may be added or 
 not. Serve fresh rolls with this soup. Time, 
 four hours to simmer the soup. Probable 
 cost. Is. 6d. per quart. Sufficient for a dozen 
 persons. 
 
 OX TAIL, STEWED. 
 
 Take a fine ox tail, disjoint it, cut it into 
 pieces about one inch and a half long, and 
 divide the thick parts into quarters. Throw 
 these pieces into boiling water, and let them 
 remain for a quarter of an hour; then drain 
 them, and soak them in cold water for an hour. 
 Take tliem up, wipe them with a soft cloth, and 
 put them into a stewpan with two quarts of 
 stock or water, a large onion stuck with three 
 cloves, three carrots^ a bunch of savoury herbs, 
 and a little salt and pepper. Simmer gently ■» 
 until the meat will part easily from the bones, 
 then put the pieces . on a hot dish, reduce the 
 gravy, strain it over them, and garnish with 
 toasted sippets. A little lemon-juice is by some 
 persons considered an improvement. Time, 
 three hours and a half to stew the tail. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 6d. to 4s. Sufficient for three or 
 four persons. 
 
 OX TAIL, STEWED, WITH GREEN PEAS OR 
 SPINACH. 
 
 Stew the ox tail according to the directions 
 given in the last recipe. When the meat is 
 tender) lift it out, strain the gravy, and reduce 
 it to half the quantity. Pour it again over the 
 meat, let it simmer a few minutes, then serve the 
 stew, neatly arranged, in a circle on a hot dish, 
 with green peas or spinach in the centre. Time, 
 three hours and a half to stew the ox tail. Prob- 
 able cost of ox tails. Is. 6d. to 4s. each. Suf- 
 ficient for three or four persons. 
 
OXT 
 
 480 
 
 OXT 
 
 ox TAIL, WITH MATELOTE SAUCE. 
 
 Take a large fresh ox tail, disjoint it, cut it 
 into pieces two inches long, and blanch these 
 in boiling water for a quarter of an hour; then 
 take them up, drain them, and soak them in 
 cold water for three-quarters of an hour. Put 
 them in a saucepan, cover them with broth or 
 water, bring them to the boil, then simmer them 
 gently for two hours. Take them up, strain 
 the sauce, thicken three-quarters of a pint of it 
 with a dessert-spoonful of flour and^ a little 
 butter^ add a dozen and a half of small fried 
 onions, and a dozen button mushrooms (or, as a 
 substitute, a table-spoonful of mushroom ket- 
 chup), a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of 
 thyme and basil, a bay-leaf, and a little salt 
 and pepper. _ Stew gently and skim carefully 
 until the meat will part easily from the bones. 
 Then add a pounded anchovy, a little grated nut- 
 meg, and a glassful of claret. Boil up again, and 
 serve the ox tail piled in the centre of a hot 
 dish; garnish with toasted sippets, and strain 
 the sauce over all. Time altogether, three hours 
 and a half to stew the ox tail. Sufficient for 
 three persons. Probable cost of ox tail, from 
 Is. 6d. to 4s. 
 
 OX TAIL, WITH PIQUANT SAUCE. 
 
 Take a fresh ox tail, disjoint it, and cut it 
 into pieces two inches long. Put these into 
 boiling water for a quarter of an hour, then 
 soak them in cold water for three-quarters of an 
 hour. Drain the pieces well, and wipe them 
 with a soft cloth. Place them in a saucepan. 
 
 ox TAIL, WITH PiaUAMT SAUCE. 
 
 cover with a pint of stock or water, and bring 
 them gradually to the boil. Remove the scum 
 as it rises, and put in with the meat two sliced 
 onions, two sliced carrots, a piece of garlic 
 about the size of a small pea, a bunch of parsley, 
 a small sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, three cloves, 
 and a little salt and pepper. Simmer gently until 
 the tail is tender and the meat will part easily 
 from the bones. Lift the meat out carefully, 
 strain the sauce, stir into it a glass of sherry or 
 Madeira, a pinch of cayenne, four or five button 
 onions, a tea^spoonful of strained lemon-juice, a 
 table-spoonful of pickled gherkins finely minced, 
 and a little brown thickening. Put back the 
 pieces of meat, let them simmer half an hour 
 longer, and serve them piled up in the centre 
 of a hot dish with the gravy poured over them. 
 Time, three hours to stew the ox tail. Probable 
 . cost of ox tail from Is. 6d. to 4g. 
 
 OX TONGUE. 
 
 Ox tongues are generally preferred either 
 pickled or smoked, though they are occasionally 
 cooked when fresh. Recipes for both are given. 
 A fresh tongue, after being trimmed, should be 
 soaked in plenty of cold water for one hour 
 
 before it is cooked, a green tongue just taken 
 out of pickle for four hours, and a salted and 
 dried tongue for twenty-four hours. In choos- 
 ing a tongue, select a plump one with a smooth 
 skin, which is a sign that it is young and tender. 
 If the thin part of a tongue is not eaten it should 
 be preserved and dried. It will grate like hung 
 beef, and will be found excellent for flavouring 
 omelettes, and also for making tongue toast. 
 
 OX TONGUE (a I'Ecarlate). 
 
 Wash a pickled tongue thoroughly, and leave 
 it to soak in cold water for two days, after 
 which rub it with saltpetre and a little brown 
 sugar; season it with whole pepper, and let it' 
 lie in cold salted water for another four days, 
 turning it every day. Then put it on to boil 
 in water, to which has been added a little of 
 the brine, an onion, a carrot, a bay-leaf, and a 
 little parsley. When the tongue is done, skin 
 it, place it in a deep dish, and pour the liquor 
 (strained through a tamis) over it. Probable 
 cost, 4b. to 6s. 
 
 OX TONGUE, BOILED. 
 
 Soak the tongue, put it into a stewpan with 
 plenty of cold water, an onion stuck with cloves, 
 and a bunch of savoury herbs. Bring the water 
 very gradually to the boil, then draw the sauce- 
 pan to the side, and simmer gently from three 
 to four hours, according to the size. When the 
 tongfue is done enough — this may be ascertained 
 by pushing a skewer into it; if the skewer will 
 enter easily, the tongue is done — ^plunge it at 
 once into cold water, when the furred coating 
 can be easily drawn off. If the tongue is to be 
 eaten hot, wrap it in greased paper, and warm 
 it in hot water for about twenty minutes, after 
 taking off the skin. Glaze it over two or three 
 times, and send it to table with mashed turnips, 
 boiled carrots, or stewed cabbage, or with 
 tomato or piquant sauce. If it is to be eaten 
 cold, place the root end against a board, and 
 put a strong fork into the top and the end in 
 order to bend it into a nice shape, and let it 
 remain until it is firmly set. Glaze it, and be- 
 fore sending it to table ornament the root with 
 a neat frill of cut paper. Or, roll the tongue — 
 that is, turn the thick part into the middle, and 
 press the tongue into a plain round mould just 
 large enough to hold it — put upon it a dish with 
 a weight on top, and let it remain some hours. 
 Glaze round it, and carve it like a fillet of veal. 
 Tongue which is to be eaten cold should be 
 allowed to cool in the liquid in which it was 
 boiled. Probable cost, 4s. to 6s. each. Suf- 
 ficient for eight or nine persons. 
 
 OX TONGUE, CURED. 
 
 Cut away the root, which may afterwards be 
 stewed for stock, leave a, little of the fat, and 
 trim the tongue neatly. Rub it well with com- 
 mon salt, and leave it until the next day ; drain, 
 and dry it. Mix together one ounce of pounded 
 saltpetre, two ounces of moist sugar, and half 
 a pound of salt. Dry them well, and rub every 
 part of the tongue thoroughly with the powder. 
 Turn it and rub it again every day for three 
 weeks, when it will be ready for cooking, or, if 
 not wanted immediately, for drying or smoking. 
 Probable cost, 4s. to 6s. Sufficient for eight or 
 nine persons. 
 
OXT 
 
 481 
 
 OXT 
 
 OX TONGUE, CURRIED. 
 
 Mince finely four ounces of cooked ox tongue 
 with one ounce of bacon fat; season with 
 plenty of white pepper, curry-powder, and cay- 
 enne, and add a, few chopped mushrooms. Cut 
 a French dinner roll into slices, and toast them 
 slightly on both sides. I>ip them in a mixture 
 of claret and beaten egg; sprinkle the slices 
 with grated nutmeg and cayenne. Spread each 
 thickly with the tongue mixture, and place a 
 button mushroom in the centre of each; coat 
 over with rich cream sauce, and make hot in a 
 quick oven. Dish up, and serve with boiled 
 rice. Probable cost, 4s. to 6s. 
 
 OX TONGUE, FRESH, BOILED. 
 
 Soak a fresh ox tongue for an hour or more. 
 Trim it neatly, and put it into a large stewpan 
 with plenty of cold water, a bunch of savoury 
 herbs, an onion stuck with three cloves, half a 
 dozen peppercorns, and a table-spoonful of salt. 
 Let it boil, then draw the saucepan to the side 
 of the fire, and simmer very gently for three 
 hours. Ascertain whether the tongue is done 
 enough by pushing a skewer into it, then take 
 off the outer skin, serve the meat on a hot dish, 
 and send piquant or tomato sauce to table in a 
 tureen. Probable cost, 3s. to 4s. Sufficient for 
 eight or nine persons. 
 
 OX TONGUE, FRESH, LARDED. 
 
 Soak the tongue, and boil it gently for about 
 three hours. Take off the rough skin, and lard 
 the upper part of the tongue evenly with strips 
 of fat bacon. Put it again into the saucepan 
 with as much of the liquor in which it was 
 boiled as will cover it, a dozen fried button 
 onions, a little pepper and salt, and an ounce 
 and a half of butter, rolled thickly in flour. 
 Stew gently for an hour. A quarter of an hour 
 before the tongue is taken up, put with it a 
 table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice and a 
 glassful of port. Serve the tongue on a hot dish 
 w^ith the gravy poured over it. Time, four 
 hours. Probable cost, 4s. to 6s. Sufficient for 
 eight or nine persons. 
 
 OX TONGUE, FRESH, ROASTED. 
 
 Soak the tongue, and boil it gently for about 
 three hours. Drain it, take off the skin, trim 
 the root neatly, stick about a dozen cloves into 
 it, and roast the tongue before a clear fire, bast- 
 ing it well with good dripping or butter. Serve 
 on a hot dish, and send half a pint of good 
 brown gravy to table with it. If preferred, the 
 tongue may be egged and bread-crumbed before 
 being roasted. Eed currant jelly should be 
 eaten with roasted tongue. Time to roast, half 
 an hour. Probable cost, 4s. to 6s. Sufficient 
 for eight or nine persons. 
 
 OX TONGUE, FRESH, STEWED. 
 
 Soak a fresh ox tongue for about an hour. 
 Drain it, and put it into a saucepan with plenty 
 of cold water. Bring it slowly to a boil, then 
 draw the saucepan to the side, and simmer very 
 gently until it is done enough. Take off the 
 skin. Brown a table-spoonful of flour in two 
 ounces of butter ; add as much of the liquid in 
 which the tongue was boiled as will make the 
 sauce of the thickness of cream, and put with it 
 a finely-minced onion, a table-spoonful of 
 3i 
 
 chopped parsley, half a table-spoonful of bruised 
 capers, two sardines, a little sliced lemon, and 
 salt and cayenne to taste. Simmer the tongue 
 in this sauce for about an hour, place it on a hot 
 dish, boil the sauce up once more with a table- 
 spoonful of vinegar and a glassful of sherry or 
 Madeira, pour it over the tongue, and serve 
 immediately. Time, altogether, about four 
 hours. Probable cost, 4s. to 6s. Sufficient for 
 eight or nine persons. 
 
 OX TONGUE, PICKLED. 
 
 Prepare the tongue in the usual way. Soak 
 and dry it, and put it into a deep earthen pan 
 with two dozen peppercorns, a bunch of basil, 
 and a bunch of thyme. Make a pickle by boil- 
 ing an ounce of saltpetre, an ounce of sal- 
 prunella, a pound and a half of bay salt, and a 
 pound of moist sugar in a gallon of water for 
 twenty minutes. Let it get quite cold, then 
 cover the tongue with this, and let it remain for 
 ten days or a fortnight, the duration of the time 
 to depend upon the season of the year : it should 
 be longer in winter than in summer. When the 
 tongue is taken out of the pickle it should be 
 riibbed well with a dry cloth, and either cooked 
 at once or hung up to dry. It is always best 
 when cooked straight out of the pickle. This 
 pickle may be used again and again for beef and 
 tongues, but when it has been used a few weeks, 
 it should be boiled gently with a little additional 
 salt and sugar, and the scum carefully removed. 
 Probable cost, 4s. to 6s. 
 
 OX TONGUE, POTTED. 
 
 Take the remains of a boiled pickled tongue, 
 and a small quantity of roasted meat or poultry, 
 as tongue potted alone is a little too soft. Cut 
 off the skin and hard parts. Weigh the meat, 
 mince finely, and pound it in a mortar, with six 
 ounces of fresh butter, a heaped tea-spoonful of 
 powdered mace, a pinch of cayenne, half a tea- 
 spoonful of pounded cloves, and half a nutmeg, 
 grated, to every pound and a half of meat. Mis 
 thoroughly. Press the meat into small potting- 
 jars, and cover with clarified butter. Keep in a 
 cool place. Time, one hour to prepare. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 6d. for a quarter of a pound. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 OX TONGUE, POTTED WHOLE (for «. Picnic or 
 Supper). 
 Take an ox tongue out of pickle and wash it 
 well. If the root has not been cut away, take 
 off the rough parts. Put half a pound of fat 
 bacon at the bottom of a deep round pan just 
 large enough for the purpose, and then a pound 
 of rump-steak ; upon these place the tongue, 
 which has been rolled and bound with tape. 
 Cover it with a cow-heel, boiled and boned, 
 another slice of steak and bacon, and season the 
 whole with a quarter of a tea-spoonful of 
 powdered ginger, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of 
 powdered cloves, two tea-spoonfuls of white pep- 
 per, and a bay-leaf. Add two onions and a 
 carrot, sliced, a bunch of sweet herbs, and pour 
 over the whole a quart of water, two glassfuls of 
 sherry, and half a pint of mild ale. Cover the 
 pan closely, and place it in a moderate oven. 
 When the tongue is sufficiently cooked, take it 
 out, put over the meat a thin board with a 
 weight upon it, and leave it until the following 
 
OXT 
 
 482 
 
 OYS 
 
 day. Place it on a dish, and glaze neatly 
 before serving. If wished, part of £he tongue 
 can be eaten not, and the remainder afterwards 
 pressed. Time, three hours and a half to bake 
 the meat. Probable cost, 8b. Sufficient for 
 eighteen or twenty persons. 
 
 OX TONGUE, RUSSIAN. 
 
 The tongue should be soaked in cold water for 
 forty-eight hours, changing the water several 
 times. It should then be boiled very gently for 
 five hours, or until quite tender. Then take off 
 the skin, and put a paper frill round the root 
 end of the tongue. 
 
 OX TONGUE TOAST (a Breakfast relish). 
 
 Mince two ounces of cold boiled tongue very 
 finely. Mix with it a hard-boiled egg chopped 
 small, and a pinch of cayenne and powdered 
 mace. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter, add 
 the tongue, etc., and stir all over the fire until 
 the mixture is quite hot, then spread it thickly 
 on a slice of buttered toast, and serve at once. 
 Time, three or four minutes to heat the mixture. 
 Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for one person. 
 
 OYSTER. 
 
 Oysters are universally liked, and besides be- 
 ing delicious, are considered wholesome and 
 nourishing for delicate and consumptive persons. 
 When cooked, they appear more frequently as 
 components of other dishes than by themselves, 
 and when served thus, preserved oysters, which 
 may be obtained of any grocer, will be found 
 an economical and excellent substitute for the 
 fresh fish, though not quite equal to it. There 
 are several kinds, each large town having its 
 favourite oyster-bank, but Whitstable and Col- 
 chester " natives " are generally considered the 
 best. Oysters cannot be too fresh, and when 
 eaten raw, should be swallowed as soon as they 
 are opened, as exposure to the air spoils their 
 flavour. They may be preserved alive' for some 
 days, but their quality gradually deteriorates. 
 It is said that if a cupful of hot milk is taken by 
 delicate persons immediately after partaking of 
 oysters, it will greatly assist their digestion. 
 
 OYSTER AND CELERY SALAD. 
 
 Chop a dozen oysters into dice, and shred 
 finely the white part of two heads of celery. Toss 
 both in some mayonnaise dressing, and put the 
 mixture in a glass dish. Mask it all thoroughly 
 with more mayonnaise, and serve garnished with 
 celery tufts, and tiny heaps of caviare. 
 
 OYSTER AND SHRIMP SAUCE. 
 
 Put half a pint of Brown Sattce in a pan, 
 with a gill of strained oyster liquor and the 
 beards of six oysters, first pounded with a strip 
 of lemon rind. Add a tea-spoonful of anchovy 
 essence, a few drops of lemon-juice, salt and 
 cayenne to taste, a sprig of parsley, and a morsel 
 of mace ; boil for twenty minutes, then strain. 
 Put it back in the pan with a table-spoonful of 
 fish stock or good white stock, and half a gill 
 of freshly shelled shrimps ; cover for a few 
 minutes, then add six oysters cut into dice. 
 Cover again until just heated through (not 
 ' boiled), and serve hot with fish or beef steaks. 
 
 OYSTER, PRAIRIE. 
 
 Put a tea-spoonful of vinegar into a wine- 
 Jllass, carefully slip in the yolk of an egg, add a 
 
 pinch of salt and a dust of pepper, and it is 
 
 ready to be swallowed. 
 
 OYSTERS (a la Maitre d'Hotel), a Chafing Dish recipe. 
 
 Wash and drain two dozen oysters. Put them 
 in a chafing-dish with a table-spoonful of but- 
 ter; stir carefully, and when the edges of the 
 oysters begin to curl add the juice of half a. 
 lemon, a table-spoonful of finely-chopped pars- 
 ley, and salt and pepper. Serve at once on slices 
 of hot buttered toast. 
 OYSTERS (4 la Villeroi). 
 
 Blanch twenty-four large oysters in their own: 
 liquor for two minutes, and drain them. Take 
 some chicken forcemeat, spread it over both sides 
 of the oysters, dip them in egg and fresh bread- 
 crumbs, then fry them in hot lard for three 
 minutes. Serve with fried parsley. 
 
 OYSTERS AND EGGS. 
 
 Put half a pound of fresh butter into a stew- 
 pan with a little chopped parsley and one or two 
 mushrooms shredded small. Season with pep- 
 per, salt, and nutmeg. When the butter is 
 melted put in about four dozen oysters with 
 their liquor, make them quite hot, and add to 
 them five or six hard-boiled eggs cut in slices. 
 Let the whole simmer for a quarter of an hour, 
 and then put some into each oyster shell. 
 Cover each with bread raspings, and colour in 
 the oven or with a salamander. 
 
 OYSTERS (au Gratin). 
 
 Put six ounces of macaroni into a stewpan 
 with three pints of boiling water. Season with 
 a pinch of salt and two pinches of pepper, and 
 simmer for twenty minutes. Drain the mac- 
 aroni, put it back into the saucepan with 
 half a pint of good gravy, and let it stew until 
 the macaroni is tender and the gravy absorbed. 
 Turn it out, chop it small, and put it again into 
 the stewpan with a dozen or more of oysters, 
 cut into small pieces, two ounces of grated Par- 
 mesan, one ounce of butter, a pinch of cayenne, 
 and as much milk or gravy as will moisten it. 
 Shake the saucepan over the fire until the cheese 
 is melted, then pile the macaroni high in a dish, 
 sprinkle over it an ounce of grated Parmesan 
 and a dessert-spoonful of browned bread-crumbs, 
 pour over half an ounce of clarified butter, and 
 brown the mixture in a gentle oven, or before 
 the fire. Serve very hot. Time, altogether, two 
 hours. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, BAKED. 
 
 Mix three table-spoonfuls of finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs with half a salt-spoonful of salt, a 
 salt-spoonful of white pepper, and a quarter of 
 a nutmeg, grated. Beard a dozen oysters, dip 
 them in beaten egg, roll them in the seasoned 
 crumbs, put each one in its lower shell, and lay 
 a email piece of butter upon it. Place the 
 oysters in the oven, or before the fire for a few 
 minutes, until they are quite hot. Before serv- 
 ing, squeeze a little lemon-juice upon them. 
 Probable cost of oysters. Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. 
 Sufficient for one or two persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, BOILED. 
 
 Wash the shells carefully ; throw the oysters 
 into a saucepan of boiling water, and let them 
 boil quickly for three or four minutes, then take 
 
OYS 
 
 483 
 
 OYS 
 
 them up, and serve them in the shells, with 
 melted butter in a tureen. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 to 3s. per dozen. 
 
 OYSTERS, BROILED. 
 
 Take a dozen large oysters, dry them in a soft 
 cloth, and dip them into beaten egg, and after- 
 wards into finely-grated bread-crumbs. Rub the 
 bars of a double wire gridiron with a little but- 
 ter, place the oysters upon it, and broil them 
 over a clear, but not fierce fire. When one side 
 is done, turn them upon the other. Put a small 
 lump of fresh butter upon a hot dish, lay the 
 oysters upon it, sprinkle a little pepper over 
 them, and serve. Time to broil, one or two 
 minutes. Probable cost. Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. 
 Sufficient for one or two persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, BROILED IN THEIR SHELLS. 
 
 Take a dozen oysters, open them, and leave 
 th»m in the" deep shell. Place a little butter 
 upon each, with a pinch of salt and cayenne, and 
 half a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice. Put the 
 shells on the gridiron, over a clear but not fierce 
 fire, and broil them for three minutes. Serve 
 them neatly arranged on a folded napkin. If 
 preferred, the oysters may be bearded, and 
 warmed for a minute or two in a stewpan, with 
 an ounce of butter and a table-spoonful of 
 chopped parsley, before they are put into the 
 shells. Or the shells may be washed, and laid 
 closed upon the gridiron, the deep side to the 
 fire; when the shells open wide, the oysters are 
 dene enough. Serve with bread and butter. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Suf- 
 ficient for one or two persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, BROWNED IN THEIR OWN GRAVY. 
 
 Take a dozen plump, juicy oysters of medium 
 size. As they are opened, carefully pour the 
 gravy into a cup. Beard the oysters, sprinkle a 
 little pepper and salt over them, and dip each 
 one separately into the yolk of an egg, which 
 has been mixed smoothly with a tea-spoonful of 
 flour. Brown them in a saucepan with a little 
 clarified butter, lift them out, mix their gravy 
 with the butter, and thicken it with half a tea- 
 spoonful of flour. Simmer gently for two or 
 three minutes, stir in the browned oysters, let 
 them get hot, then serve them on toasted bread 
 in a hot dish. Time, altogether, about a quarter 
 of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 6d. to 3s. per 
 dozen. Sufficient for one or two persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, CROQUETTES OF. 
 
 Take a dozen plump juicy oysters, put them 
 in a saucepan over a gentle fire for a minute or 
 two to harden them, then beard them, and cut 
 each one into six or eight pieces. Mix an ounce 
 of butter smoothly in a stewpan with half an 
 ounce of flour, add the juice of the oysters, a 
 pinch of cayenne, a tea-spoonful of anchovy 
 sauce, a grate or two of nutmeg', and a quarter 
 of a pint of milk. Stir these ingredients over 
 the fire until the sauce is smooth and thick, then 
 lift the pan off the fire for a minute, add a tea- 
 spoonful of good beef or veal gravy, the well- 
 beaten yolks of two eggs, and a tea-spoonful of 
 lemon-juice. Stir the sauce again over the fire 
 until the eggs are set, then add the oysters, let 
 them get quite hot (if this point is not attended 
 to the croquettes will not be good), spread the 
 mixture out upon a plate, in a layer about an 
 
 inch and a half thick, and put it aside until quite 
 cold. Strew some finely-grated bread-crumbs on 
 a board. Divide the oyster mixture into equal- 
 sized parts, and roll these to the shape of corks 
 or balls ; dip them in the yolk of an egg beaten 
 up with a tea-spoonful of oil and a little salt 
 and pepper ; roll them in the bread-crumbs, and 
 fry them in hot fat until they are crisp, and 
 lightly browned all over. Dry tlaem well before 
 the fire on a cloth placed upon an inverted sieve, 
 and serve them piled on a napkin, and garnished 
 with fried parsley. Time to fry the croquettes, 
 five to seven minutes. Probable cost, 2s. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, CURRIED. 
 
 Open two dozen oysters without losing any of 
 their liquor. Put them into a saucepan over 
 the fire for a minute to harden them, then beard 
 them and put them aside. Dissolve two ounces 
 of fresh butter in a stewpan, mix smoothly with 
 it a table-spoonful of curry-powder and a tea- 
 spoonful of dried flour ; add a minced onion, and 
 stir gently until the onion is tender, then add 
 the oyster-liquor and a dessert-spoonful of 
 strained lemon-juice. Let the sauce boil, then 
 put in the oysters ; let them simmer for half a 
 minute, stirring them gently all the time, and 
 serve on a hot dish, with a border of rice boiled 
 as for curry. Time, a few minutes. Probable 
 cost of oysters. Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Suf- 
 ficient for three or four persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, CURRIED (another way). 
 
 Cut a large onion, or two middle-sized ones, ' 
 into thin slices, and fry them in butter until 
 brown. Dredge into the pan four dessert-spoon- 
 fuls of curry-powder, and stir in two ounces 
 more of butter. When the mixture is quite 
 smooth, thin it with half a pint of good warm 
 broth, and keep it stirred until it boils. Put it 
 into a clean stewpan with the white part of a 
 finely-grated cocoa-nut and a minced sour apple, 
 when it must be again made to boil. Stir until 
 the apple is dissolved, and the cocoa-nut is 
 tender, then mix a little flour and water as 
 thickening, and when thick add the oysters (a 
 hundred, carefully bearded, with their liquor 
 strained), also the milk of the cocoa-nut, if 
 sweet. Simmer until the oysters are hot. Serve 
 on a hot dish, with boiled rice in another. Time, 
 twenty-five minutes to make curry; one minute 
 to stew oysters. Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, CURRIED, INDIAN. 
 
 Open and beard four dozen large plump 
 oysters, and be careful to preserve the Hquor. 
 Mince an onion very finely, and fry it in an 
 ounce of butter until it is quite tender. Stir 
 into it a heaped table-spoonful of curry-powder, 
 and a little more butter, if necessary, and pour 
 in very gradually a quarter of a pint of nicely- 
 seasoned stock or water. When the liquid boils 
 stir in the meat of half a cocoa-nut, rasped, and 
 a sour apple, finely mi'nced. Simmer gently 
 until the apple is dissolved, then thicken the 
 gravy with a little flour, and season with pepper 
 and salt. Put in the oysters with their liquor 
 and the milk of the cocoa-nut. Let the curry 
 stew for a few minutes, and stir it gently all the 
 time, then add a dessert-spoonful of strained 
 lemon-juice, and when the oysters are done 
 
OYS 
 
 484 
 
 OYS 
 
 enough, serve on a hot dish, with a border of 
 boiled rice. A small vegetable marrow, finely 
 minced, or a large ripe tomato, chopped small, 
 may be added to the curry, if either is at hand, 
 and will be found an improvement. Time, 
 altogether, about half an hour. Probable cost 
 of oysters. Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Sufficient 
 for, eight or ten persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, DEVILLED. 
 
 Whfen the oysters are opened (choose large 
 ones), retain them and their liquor in the deep 
 shell. Sprinkle with cayenne pepper to taste, 
 and put the shells on a gridiron, with a bit of 
 butter on the top of each oyster. If the fire be 
 clear and bright, from three to four minutes 
 will do them. Send to table on a napkin, with 
 bread and butter as an accompaniment. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 6d. to Is. 9d. per dozen. 
 
 OYSTERS, FORCEMEAT OF, FOR BOILED FOWLS 
 OR TURKEYS. 
 
 Grate four ounces of the crumb of a stale loaf 
 of bread very finely. Add half a tea-spoonful 
 of salt, half a tea-spoonful of white pep- 
 per, half a tea-spoonful of pounded mace, 
 a pinch of cayenne, two ounces of fresh 
 butter, broken into small pieces (or if preferred, 
 four ounces of finely-shredded beef-suet, though 
 the forcemeat will not then be so delicate), the 
 grated rind of half a small lemon, and a table- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley. When these in- 
 gredients are thoroughly mixed, stir in a dozen 
 plump oysters, which have been bearded and 
 cut into small pieces, and bind the preparation 
 together with the yolk of an egg and a little of 
 the oyster liquid. If forcemeat balls are re- 
 quired, the mixture should be pounded in a 
 mortar until reduced to a smooth paste. Oyster- 
 sauce should always be served with oyster-force- 
 ! meat. Time, half an hour to prepare. Prob- 
 able cost, 2s. Sufficient to stuff a large fowl. 
 
 OYSTERS, FORCEMEAT OF (another way). 
 
 Open and beard two dozen fresh oysters, and 
 carefully preserve the liquid. Mince them 
 finely, pound them to a smooth paste, and mix 
 with them five ounces of finely-grated bread- 
 crumbs, an ounce of fresh butter, the Tind of half 
 a lemon chopped small, a table-spoonful of 
 minced parsley, a pinch of cayenne, a small tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of pep- 
 per. When well mixed, bind the mixture to- 
 gether with the unbeaten yolk of an egg and a 
 small quantity of the oyster liquid, added very 
 gradually. Time, half an hour to prepare. 
 Probable cost, 3s. 3d. Sufficient to stuff a good- 
 sized turkey. 
 
 OYSTERS, FORCEMEAT OF (another way). 
 (See POECBMEAT OP Otstbb.) 
 
 OYSTERS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 ' Oysters being nourishing and easily digested 
 are, when in season, often ordered for invalids. 
 However, they do not always tempt the sick 
 person in their simply unshelled garb. Make 
 half a pint of good beef-tea, thicken with a little 
 arrowroot to the consistency of thin cream. 
 "When it boils, take it off the fire, and let it get 
 almost cold, then put half a dozen oysters in it. 
 Let all heat very slowly but thoroughly. Do not 
 let it boil. By avoiding this the oysters will 
 
 also Otstebs, 
 
 remain quite mellow and tender, and as 
 digestible as if eaten uncooked. Boiling hard- 
 ens them. 
 OYSTERS, FOWL WITH. 
 
 (See Fowl, with Otstebs; 
 
 POTJLETS AND.) 
 
 OYSTERS, FRESH, TO DISTINGUISH. 
 
 The fresher oysters are the better. Their 
 freshness may be known by the force with which 
 the shell closes on the knife when they are 
 opened. If the shell gapes at all, the oyster is 
 stale. 
 OYSTERS, FRICASSEED. 
 
 Cut two ounces of lean ham into dice, and put 
 them into a stewpan with two ounces of fresh 
 butter, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a 
 sliced onion, an inch of thin lemon-rind, and 
 two cloves. Place the cover on the pan, and let 
 the contents steam gently for ten minutes. Pom- 
 over them half a pint of stock or gravy thick- 
 ened with a spoonful of flour, and simmer for 
 twenty minutes. Add two dozen oysters and 
 when they are quite hot, draw the saucepan to 
 the side of the fire for a minute or two to cool, 
 then stir in gradually the yolk of an egg, beaten 
 up with a table-spoonful of cream. Simmer 
 again for a minute, and serve the oysters on a 
 hot dish, with the sauce strained and poured 
 over them. A tea-spoonful of lemon-juice may 
 be added or not. Probable cost of oysters, from 
 Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Sufficient for three or 
 four persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, FRIED. 
 
 Pried oysters are generally used to garnish 
 fish, either boiled or fried, and large oysters are 
 the best for the purpose. Open the oysters, and 
 simmer them for two minutes in their own 
 liquor, dry them in a cloth, beard them, and 
 dip them in a frying batter made as follows. 
 Mix six ounces of flour very smoothly with the 
 yolk of an egg, an ounce of clarified butter, and 
 a quarter of a pint of lukewarm water, beat the 
 mixture until it is quite smooth, then add a 
 pinch of salt, and let the batter stand in a cool 
 place for a couple of hours. Stir in briskly the 
 well-whisked whites of two eggs, dip the oysters 
 in separately, drop them into boiling fat, and 
 fry them until they are crisp and brown. JDrain 
 them on a cloth, and serve very hot. Time to 
 fry the oysters, seven or eight minutes. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. 
 
 OYSTERS, FRIED (another way). 
 
 Open two dozen oysters, and simmer them for 
 two minutes in their own liquor. Dry them in a 
 cloth, beard them, and fry them with two 
 ounces of butter, a table-spoonful of mushroom 
 ketchup, a tea-spoonful of finely-minced parsley, 
 and a tea-spoonful of chopped lemon-rindT When 
 they are nicely browned, drain them on a cloth, 
 and serve on a hot dish with fried potatoes, and 
 toasted sippets round them. Time, six or seven 
 minutes to fry. Probable cost. Is. 6d. to 3s. 
 per dozen. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, FRITTERS OF. 
 
 Open a dozen oysters, and simmer them for 
 two minutes in their own liquor. Beard them, 
 and put them aside. Beat two eggs, and mix 
 with them half a table-spoonful of milk. Add a 
 
OYS 
 
 485 
 
 OYS 
 
 little salt, a quarter of a salt-spoonful of pepper, 
 a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, a quarter of a 
 salt-spoonful of pounded mace, and a quarter of 
 a tea-spoonful of grated lemon-rind. Dip the 
 oysters into tMs batter, and then into finely- 
 grated bread-crumbs. Fry in hot fat until they 
 are brown and crisp, and use them for gar- 
 nishing. Time, five or six minutes to fry 
 the oysters. Probable cost. Is. 6d. to 3s. per 
 dozen. 
 
 OYSTERS IN THE PAN. 
 
 Mince a small onion finely, and put it into a 
 stewpau with two ounces of fresh butter, a table- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley, half a tea-spoonful 
 of powdered thyme, and a little pepper and salt. 
 Steam until the onion is tender, then add a, 
 quarter of a pint of new milk or cream and a 
 dozen fresh oysters. Let these get quite hot, 
 then turn them with the sauce into a buttered 
 baking-dish, strew finely-grated bread-crumbs 
 thickly over, and put them into a quick oven 
 until the crumbs are lightly browned. Time, 
 altogether, about half an hour. Probable cost 
 of oysters. Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Sufficient for 
 three or four persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, KETCHUP OF. 
 
 Take half a pint of fresh oysters, clean them 
 well, carefully removing the eye and the gut, 
 and boil them gently with their liquor until all 
 the goodness is drawn out of them. Strain 
 them, and put the liquid into a clean saucepan, 
 with an equal quantity of light wine, six 
 anchovies, a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice, a 
 quarter of an ounce each of pounded cloves and 
 mace, and a dozen peppercorns. Boil a quarter 
 of an hour longer, then put a dozen shallots and 
 the thin rind of a small lemon into a jar, pour 
 over them the hot liquid with the spices, and 
 when cold bottle the ketchup and resin the corks. 
 This ketchup is for flavouring sauces when 
 oysters are out of Beaaon. Time, half an hour 
 to boil the oysters. Probable cost of oysters. 
 Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. 
 
 OYSTERS, KETCHUP OF (another way). 
 
 Take half a pint of freshly-shelled oysters, 
 clean them well, carefully removing the beard 
 and the gut, and pound them in a mortar to a 
 smooth paste. Add half a pint of sherry, and a 
 salt-spoonful of powdered mace, a salt-spoon- 
 ful of pepper, and half an ounce of salt, and 
 boil all , gently together for twenty minutes. 
 Strain the liquid, and mix with it a tea-spoon- 
 ful of brandy, then bottle the ketchup, and 
 resin the corks. !l^robable cost of oysters. 
 Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. 
 
 OYSTERS, LOAVES OF. 
 
 Beard one dozen oysters, and put the beards 
 into a saucepan with the oyster liquid, as much 
 thick cream as will cover them, a quarter of an 
 inch of mace, a grate or two of nutmeg, two 
 inches of thin lemon-rind, and a slight sprink- 
 ling of cayenne. Boil for ten minutes, strain 
 the sauce, and put it back into the saucepan, 
 with the oysters finely minced, a dessert-spoon- 
 ful of lemon-juice, and a quarter of a pint of 
 thick cream, thickened with a dessert-spoonful 
 of dried flour. Stir the mixture over the flre for a 
 minute, then put it into the loaves, prepared as 
 follows. Slice the tops ofE three or four small 
 
 French rolls, scoop out the crumb, and plunge 
 the rolls into as much hot lard as will cover 
 them entirely, and let them remain till they are 
 brightly browned all over. Drain them well, 
 fill them with the oyster mixture, and serve in 
 a dish garnished with fried bread-crumbs. Time, 
 a few minutes to brown the. loaves. Probable 
 cost of oysters. Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Suf- 
 ficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, MARINADED AND FRIED. 
 
 Make a batter as follows. Mix three ounces 
 of flour very smoothly with a well-beaten egg, 
 add a pinch of salt, half an ounce of clarified 
 butter, and one-eighth of a pint of lukewarm 
 water. Open a dozen oysters, put them into a 
 saucepan, cover them with cold water, and bring 
 them slowly to a boil. Take them out, throw 
 them into cold water for a minute, then drain 
 them and place them side by side in a shallow 
 dish, sprinkle a little salt, pepper, and grated 
 nutmeg over them, squeeze the juice of a large 
 fresh lemon upon them, and let them remain in 
 this marinade for half an hour. Dip them 
 separately into the batter, drop them into boil- 
 ing fat, and fry until they are crisp and brown. 
 Serve very hot. Time to fry the oysterSj six 
 minutes. Probable cost. Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. 
 Sufficient for one or two persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, OMELET OF. 
 
 Mince well a dozen fried oysters. Mix with 
 them half a dozen well-beaten eggs ; season the 
 mixture with a small pinch of salt, a salt-spoon- 
 ful of white pepper, and the eighth of a nutmeg, 
 grated, and fry the omelet in the usual way (see 
 Omelet). Or, beat half a dozen eggs lightly, 
 and fry them in hot fat until they are delicately 
 set. Put three table-spoonfuls of oyster sauce 
 into the centre, fold the omelet over, and serve 
 on a hot dish. Time, five or six minutes to fry 
 the omelet. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 
 OYSTERS, OMELET SOUFFLE OF. 
 
 Beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth. 
 Beat the yolks with four table-spoonfuls of milk 
 and a little pepper and salt, and stir lightly 
 into the whites. Take twelve oysters, cut them 
 into small pieces, add them to the mixture, and 
 pour the whole into an omelet-pan, in which a 
 piece of butter has been already melted. The 
 pan must be very hot. Cook for several min- 
 utes without stirring, but slip a knife round the 
 edges to make sure it is not burning. When the 
 centre is set, place the pan in the oven long 
 enough to stiffen but not brown the top. Then 
 fold, and serve quickly. 
 
 OYSTERS, PATTIES OF. 
 
 Oyster patties may be served either hot or 
 cold, and should be sent to table piled high on 
 a napkin. They may be either baked in patty- 
 pans or made like small vol-au-vents. When 
 patty-pans are used, line the pans with good 
 puff-paste, rolled out thin, put a crust of bread 
 in each, lay on the cover, brush the top with 
 beaten egg, and bake in a quick oven. When 
 tho pastry is sufficiently baked remove the 
 covers, take out the bread, fill the patties with 
 the oyster mixture, lay the covers on again, and 
 serve. If made like small vol-au-vents, roll 
 out some light puff pastry, half an inch thick 
 
OYS 
 
 486 
 
 OYS 
 
 Stamp it in rounds with a pastry-cutter, two 
 inches and a half in diameter, press a small 
 cutter an inch and a half in diameter on the 
 middle of each round, to the depth of a quarter 
 of an inch. This is intended for the lid of the 
 vol-au-vent. Place the rounds on a buttered 
 tin, and bake them in a quick oven until they 
 are risen and lightly browned; then take them 
 out, remove the smaller centre piece, scoop out a 
 little of the inside, and iUl the empty space with 
 the prepared oysters. Put on the lid and serve. 
 The oysters are prepared as follows. Beard a 
 dozen oysters, and cut them into small pieces. 
 Put the liquor from the oysters, and the beards 
 into a saucepan, with an inch of lemon-rind, a 
 quarter of an inch of mace, a quarter of a salt- 
 spoonful of grated nutmeg, a small pinch of 
 cayenne, and a pinch of pepper, and boil for 
 seven or eight minutes. Strain the liquid, and 
 thicken it with a dessert-spoonful of flour and 
 half an ounce of butter; mix with it two table- 
 spoonfuls of thick cream and a dessert-spoonful 
 of lemon-juice, then add the oysters, simmer all 
 gently together for half a minute, fill the pat- 
 ties, and serve. The ragout should be smooth, 
 thick, and delicately flavoured, and should 
 never be put into the patties until they are 
 baked. Time, about twenty minutes to bake 
 the patties. Probable cost, 6d. each. Sufficient 
 for a, dozen patties. 
 
 OYSTERS, PATTIES OF, WITH MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Prepare and bake the patties as in the last 
 recipe. Trim, wash, drain, and dry five or six 
 button mushrooms. Cut them into small pieces, 
 and fry them in half an ounce of fresh butter for 
 four or five minutes. Beard a dozen oysters, 
 thicken the liquor with a tea-spoonful of flour, 
 and pour it over the mushrooms, with a table- 
 spoonful of veal gravy and a table-spoonful of 
 thick cream. Season with a pinch of salt, a 
 pinch of pepper, a pinch of cayenne, and the 
 eighth of a small nutmeg, grated. Stir in the 
 oysters, simmer all gently for about half a 
 minute, fill up the patties, and serve. Time, 
 twenty minutes to bake the patties. Prob- 
 able cost, 6d. each. Sufficient for a dozen 
 patties. 
 
 OYSTERS, PICKLED. 
 
 Put in a saucepan the oysters which are to be 
 pickled, together with their own liquor, and let 
 them boil gently for ten or twelve minutes. Lift 
 them out, put them into small jars, and cover 
 them. Let the liquid settle, then pour off the 
 clear part, measure it, and put it on to boil, with 
 the same quantity of good vinegar, two blades of 
 mace, a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, and the 
 thin rind of half a small lemon with each pint 
 of vinegar. Boil this pickle for ten minutes, 
 then take it off, and when cold pour it over the 
 oysters, and tie them down carefully, or they 
 will spoil. Pickled oysters will not keep more 
 than a few weeks, and they should be put into 
 small jars, so that the contents of one may be 
 speedily finished after being exposed to the 
 air. They should be served in a small dish, 
 with a little of the pickle strained over them, 
 and a little finely-mmced parsley sprinkled on 
 the top. Brown bread and butter may be eaten 
 with them. Probable cost, oysters. Is. 6d. per 
 dozen. 
 
 OYSTERS, PIE OF (for Picnics, Luncheons, or 
 Suppers). 
 Butter the inside of a shallow pie-dish rather 
 thickly, and line the edges with a good puff- 
 paste. Open and beard two dozen fresh oysters, 
 lay them in the dish, season with a little salt 
 and cayenne and half a tea-spoonful of powdered 
 mace, and sprinkle over them three table-spoon- 
 fuls of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Mix the 
 strained oyster liquor with the same quantity of 
 thick cream and a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice. 
 Pour this sauce over the oysters, put the cover 
 on the pie, and bake in a moderate oven. A 
 quarter of a pound of the kidney fat of a loin 
 of veal, or a small boiled sweetbread cut into 
 thin slices, is sometimes put into the pie with 
 the oysters. Time to bake, half an hour. Prob- 
 able cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, PILLAU OF. 
 
 Wash six ounces of Patna or small-grained rics 
 in several waters, and carefully pick out the 
 uuhusked grains. Drain the rice, and put it 
 into a saucepan with a pint of boiling and rather 
 highly-seasoned gravy. Keep the pan uncovered, 
 stir a little at first, to prevent the rice getting 
 into lumps, and let it boil very quickly until it 
 is quite soft, but unbroken, then throw it into 
 a colander, and let it drain near the fire until it 
 is quite dry. Pile it lightly round a dish, and 
 fill the hollow in the middle with a pint of 
 oyster sauce made according to the directions 
 given further on. Serve very hot. Time, fif- 
 teen or twenty minutes to boil the rice. Suf- 
 ficient for half a dozen persons. Probable cost, 
 2s. 6d. 
 
 OYSTERS, PLAICE FILLETED AND STEWED 
 WITH. 
 
 (See Plaice, Filleted, and Stewed with 
 Otstbes.) 
 
 OYSTERS, POULETS AND. 
 
 Roast a couple of chickens in the usual way. 
 Open two dozen oysters, and scald them in their 
 own liquid for two minutes. Beard them, and 
 put them aside to cool. Dissolve two ounces of 
 fresh butter in a stewpan, and mix an ounce of 
 flour smoothly with it. Add the oyster liquor, 
 three table-spoonfuls of cream or milk, a pinch 
 of cayenne, a pinch of salt, and a pinch of white 
 pepper. Stir the sauce gently over the fire until 
 it boils, take it off the fire, add six drops of 
 lemon-juice and the oysters, and either pour the 
 sauce over the fowls, or serve it separately in a 
 tureen. Time, twenty minutes to prepare the 
 sauce. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for six 
 or eight persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, POWDER OF (for flavouring Sauces, 
 etc., when Oysters are not in season). 
 Open a dozen fresh oysters, and pound them 
 thoroughly in a mortar with half a. tear-spoonful 
 of salt, then press them through a hair sieve. 
 Mix with them as much dried flour as will make 
 them into a smooth paste; this will be a little 
 more than two ounces. Roll the mixture out 
 three or four times, and the last time leave it 
 one eighth of an inch thick. Stamp it into 
 small cakes, dredge these with flour, dry them 
 gradually in a cool oven, and be very careful 
 
OYS 
 
 487 
 
 OYS 
 
 that they do not burn. To prevent this they 
 should be turned every twenty minutes. When 
 the cakes are quite dry, crush them to powder, 
 and put this into small bottles, cork and seal 
 tiem securely, and store in a dry place. When 
 sauce is wanted mix a tea-spoonful of the powder 
 smoothly with an ounce of butter and six table- 
 spoonfuls of milk. Stir the sauce over a gentle 
 fire until it boils, season it with a pinch of 
 •cayenne, add a squeeze of lemon-juice, and serve. 
 Time, four or five hours to dry the cakes. Prob- 
 able cost of oysters. Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. 
 Allow a tea-spoonful of powder for half a pint 
 of sauce. 
 
 OYSTERS, PRESERVED, HOW TO COOK. 
 
 Open the tin, take out the oysters carefully, 
 and put them on a hot dish in the oven, so that 
 they may be gradually warmed. Strain the 
 liquor which was with them in the tin, and put 
 it into a saucepan with the same quantity of 
 milk and a little salt and cayenne, and let it 
 get quite hot, then thicken it with a little flour 
 and butter, and let it boil. Strain it over the 
 oysters, and serve immediately. Send pepper 
 and vinegar to table with this dish. Time, a 
 quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 9d. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, SAUCE OF, BROWN. 
 
 In making this sauce, allow at least three 
 oysters for each person. Open the fish very 
 carefully, to preserve every drop of their liquor, 
 then beard them, and if the oysters are large, 
 halve, or even quarter them. Mix two ounces 
 of butter very smoothly with an ounce of flour, 
 add the strained oyster liquor, half a pint of 
 brown gravy, a, pinch of cayenne, and a tea- 
 spoonful of lemon-juice. Keep stirring one way 
 until the sauce is quite smooth ; let it boil, then 
 put in the oysters, and let them remain in the 
 hot sauce for two or three seconds only; they 
 must not be allowed to boil, or they will shrink 
 and turn leathery. Serve the sauce very hot. 
 A tea-spoonful of anchovy will bring out the 
 flavour. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 
 33. Sufficient for six persons. 
 OYSTERS, SAUCE OF, BROWN (another way). 
 
 Fry a table-spoonful of flour and a finely- 
 minced shallot in two ounces of fresh butter 
 until they are brightly browned, add a quarter 
 of a pint of good brown stock, a pinch of cay- 
 enne, a little pepper and salt, and the oyster 
 liquor, and stir the sauce until it is smooth and 
 thick. , Let it boil, then draw the pan to the 
 siae, and add a dessert-spoonful of strained 
 lemon-juice, a table-spoonful of claret, and a 
 dozen oysters, which have been bearded and cut 
 into quarters. When these are warmed through, 
 the sauce is ready for serving. Time, twenty 
 minutes. Probable cost, 2s. Sufiicient for 
 three or four persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, SAUCE OF, MOCK. 
 
 Cut three anchovies into small pieces, and 
 put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a 
 pint of water, half a blade of mace, half a 
 dozen peppercorns, and two cloves. Simmer 
 very gently until the anchovies are dissolved, 
 then strain the liquor, thicken it with, a little 
 flour and butter, and mix with it enough milk 
 or cream to make up half a pint. Serve very 
 
 hot. Or, stir a tearspoouful- of anchovy essence 
 into half a pint of white sauce ; season with 
 pepper and nutmeg, and serve hot. Time, half 
 an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Sufiicient for five 
 or six"" persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, SAUCE OF, WHITE. 
 
 Open a dozen oysters. Do this very care- 
 fully, so as to preserve every drop of their 
 liquor; beard and halve or quarter them. Mix an 
 ounce of butter and an ounce of flour smoothly 
 together in a stewpan. Add the oyster liquor, 
 a pinch of cayenne, the eighth of a small nut- 
 meg, grated, and as much milk as will make the 
 quantity up to three-quarters of a pint. Stir 
 the whole gently over the fire until the sauce is 
 smooth and thick. Put the oysters into a 
 heated metal strainer, and while in this hold 
 them in boiling water for two or three seconds ; 
 put them in a tureen, pour the sauce over them, 
 add a tea-spoonful of anchovy, and serve. Prob- 
 able cost, 2s. Sufiicient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, SAUCE OF, WHITE (another way). 
 
 Open and beard a dozen oysters, as in the last 
 recipe. Put the beards into a stewpan with the 
 liquor, a quarter of a pint of white stock, half 
 a dozen peppercorns, an inch of thin lemon- 
 rind, and a bay-leaf, and let them simmer very 
 gently for a quarter of an hour. Mix an ounce 
 of butter smoothly with an ounce of flour, add 
 the strained liquor, a pinch of salt and cayenne, 
 a glassful of sherry or Madeira, a dessert-spoon- 
 ful of lemon-juice, and the oysters. When these 
 ingredients are hot through, draw the saucepan 
 to the side, and stir in very gradually the well- 
 beaten yolks of three eggs. Mix thoroughly, 
 and serve immediately. If the sauce is allowed 
 to boil after the oysters are added, they will be 
 hard and leathery. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, SAUSAGES OF. 
 
 Large stewing oysters are the best for making 
 sausages. Open two dozen oysters, and mince 
 them finely. Mix with them six ounces of 
 grated bread-crumbs, which have been soaked 
 for a few minutes in the oyster liquor, and six 
 ounces of finely-shredded beef suet. Season 
 the mixture with a salt-spoonful of powdered 
 mace, half a salt-spoonful of salt, half a salt- 
 spoonful of pepper, and a pinch of cayenne, and 
 moisten it with the well-beateu yolks of two 
 eggs. Make up the mixture into small sausages, 
 about three inches long, flour these well, and 
 fry them in hot fat until they are lightly 
 browned. Drain them, and serve piled high on 
 a napkin, and garnished with parsley. This 
 preparation is better for being made two or 
 three hours before it is wanted. Sometimes » 
 small quantity of minced veal is added. Time, 
 seven or eight minutes to fry the sausages. 
 Probable cost. 4s. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, SCALLOPED. 
 
 Scalloped oysters ought properly to be pre- 
 served in scallops of silver or earthenware; but 
 when these are not at hand, a small dish will 
 answer the purpose, or the deep shells of the 
 oysters, which have been thoroughly cleansed. 
 Oysters dressed in this way should be small. 
 
OYS 
 
 488 
 
 OYS 
 
 plump, and juicy; large, coarse oysters would 
 not be at all nice. Open and beard two dozen 
 oysters, and cut each one into halves. Dissolve 
 two ounces of butter in a stewpan, mix it 
 smoothly with tvso ounces of flour, the strained 
 oyster-liquor, and a quarter of a pint of milk 
 or cream. Add half a tea-spoonful of anchovy, 
 p. pinch of cayenne, and a grate or two of nut- 
 meg, and stir the sauce over the fire till smooth 
 and thick. Let it cool for a minute, then mix 
 in the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, a table- 
 spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, a tea-spoon- 
 ful of lemon-juice, and the oysters. Keep stir- 
 ring over a gentle fire for four or five minutes, 
 then put the mixture in the shells, cover them 
 thickly with finely-grated bread-crumbs, moisten 
 withclarified butter, place theja in a Dutch oven 
 before a clear fire, and let them remain until 
 they are equally and lightly browned. Serve 
 very hot. Time, altogether, half an hour. 
 Probable cost of oysters. Is. 6d. to 3b. per dozen. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, SCALLOPED (another way). 
 
 Open and beard two dozen oysters. Put the 
 liquid into a saucepan, with an inch of thin 
 lemon-rind, a few grains of cayenne, and half a 
 blade of mace, and when it boils strain it over 
 the oysters, and let these . remain in it until 
 they are quite cold. Mix three ounces of fine 
 bread-crumbs with half a tea-spoonful of grated 
 nutmeg, and a little salt and pepper. Drain 
 the oysters from the liquid, and season them 
 with a little pepper. Butter the scallop-shells, 
 and sprinkle some bread-crumbs over them. 
 Fill them up with alternate layers of oysters, 
 seasoned bread-crumbs, and. small pieces of 
 butter ; pour in a little of the oyster liquor, and 
 finish with a thick layer of bread-crumbs, soft- 
 ened with butter. Put the shells into a quick 
 oven, or into a Dutch oven, before a brisk fire, 
 and bake until they are lightly and equally 
 browned. Serve very hot. Time, a quarter of 
 an hour to bake. Probable cost of oysters. 
 Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, SCALLOPED (a simple method). 
 
 Open and beard a dozen oysters, and wash 
 them in their own liquor. Scrape the deep 
 shells, and cleanse them thoroughly. Put an 
 oyster in each one, season it with salt and pep- 
 per, and sprinkle bread-crumbs thickly upon it. 
 Put some little pieces of butter on the top, 
 arrange the shells in a dish, and bake in a quick 
 oven, or in a Dutch oven, before a brisk fire, 
 until they are lightly and equally browned. 
 Serve very hot. Time to bake, about a quarter 
 of an hour. Probable cost of oysters. Is. 6d. to 
 3s. per dozen. Sufficient for one or two persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, SCALLOPED, WITH MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Take one dozen oysters, wash them in their 
 own liquor, put them in a lined saucepan, 
 strain the liquor over them, and heat slowly to 
 boiling point, but do not let them boil. Take 
 them out and remove their beards. Mince two 
 ounces of mushrooms, melt one ounce of butter 
 in a small saucepan, and stir the mushrooms in 
 this over a gentle fire for ten minutes. Add 
 the oysters and their liquor, and mix well. 
 'Butter some scallop shells, fill them with the 
 
 mixture of oysters and mushrooms, cover with 
 bread-crumbs, sprinkle a, little pepper and salt 
 over, dot some little pieces of butter on top, and 
 bake for fifteen minutes in a gentle oven. Suf- 
 ficient for six scallop shells. Probable cost. 
 Is. 6d. 
 
 OYSTERS, SOUP OF. 
 
 Scald two dozen oysters in their own liquor; 
 beard them, cut them into halves, and put them 
 into a soup tureen. Place the beards into a 
 stewpan with a pint of white stock or milk, and 
 the oyster liquor; let them boil for a quarter of 
 an hour, then strain the liquid, let it stand a 
 few minutes, and before using pour it gently 
 away from the sediment which will have settled 
 at the bottom of the vessel. Dissolve two 
 ounces of butter in a stewpan, mix two ounces 
 of flour smoothly with it, add the stock in 
 which the beards were boiled, and half a pint of 
 thick cream. Season the soup with a pinch of 
 cayenne, a little grated nutmeg, ana a tea- 
 spoonful of anchovy, and stir it over a gentle 
 flre for a quarter of an hour. Pour it upon the 
 oysters in the tureen, and serve immediately. 
 If preferred, milk may be used instead of cream 
 iivmaking this soup. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. 
 Suitecient for four or five persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, SOUP OF (another way). 
 
 Open and beard two dozen oysters, cut them 
 into halves, and put them into a soup tureen. 
 Boil the beards in a quart of mutton broth for 
 a few minutes, then strain them, throw them 
 aside, and thicken the soup with three dessert- 
 spoonfuls of arrowroot. Make it quite smooth, 
 and boil it quickly for a quarter of an hour. 
 Strain it through a hair-sieve, add the oyster 
 liquor, a, little salt, a pinch of cayenne, and a 
 quarter of a pint of milk, and simmer gently for 
 five minutes. Pour the soup upon the oysters 
 in the tureen, and serve very hot. Probable 
 cost, 3s. 6d'. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, SOUP OF, ECONOMICAL. 
 
 Cut half the meat from a scalded ox-heel into 
 neat pieces about the size of a small oyster. 
 Put them into a stewpan with three pints of 
 good stock, thickened with a, little flour and 
 butter. Add a pinch of cayenne and a. glassful 
 of sherry, and boil gently for two hours, then 
 put in a dozen and a half of bearded oysters 
 and their liquid, simmer five minutes longer, 
 and serve. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. {See also Peinciplbs op 
 CooKEBT — Soup.) 
 
 OYSTERS, SOUP OF, RICH. 
 
 Take three dozen oysters ; beard them, and 
 let the beards boil for a few minutes in two 
 pints of fish stock. Pound half the oysters in 
 a mortar with the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, 
 an ounce of fresh butter, a salt-spoonful of salt, 
 a salt-spoonful of white pepper, and a tea- 
 spoonful of lemon-juice. Strain the stock, stir 
 the pounded mixture into it, add the oyster 
 liquor, and simmer all together for half an 
 hour. Add a little more salt and pepper, if 
 necessary, and a pinch of cayenne, together with 
 the rest of the oysters, and the yolks of two un- 
 boiled eggs, which have been well beaten. The 
 soup must not boil after the oysters and raw 
 eggs. are added: it must be stirred by the side 
 
OYS 
 
 #89 
 
 PAD 
 
 of the fire until it is thick and smooth, and 
 then ponied into a tureen, and served very hot. 
 Time, one hour. Probable cost, 5s. Sufficient 
 for six or seven persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, STEWED. 
 
 Beard two dozen freshly-opened oysters, put 
 them into a basin, and squeeze over them the 
 juice of half a lemon. Put the beards and the 
 oyster liquor into a saucepan with half a blade 
 of mace, naif a dozen bruised peppercorns, half 
 an inch of lemon-rind, a pinch of cayenne, and 
 a little grated nutmeg. ' Simmer gently for a 
 quarter of an hour, then strain the liquid, 
 thicken it with an ounce and a half of butter 
 smoothly mixed with a large tea-spoonful of 
 flour, a,dd a quarter of a pint of cream, and stir 
 the sauce over a gentle fire until it is smooth 
 and thick. Put in the oysters, and let them 
 warm through (they must not boil, or they will 
 be hard and shrunken). Place a slice of toasted 
 bread on a hot dish,- pour the oysters and the 
 gravy upon this, and serve. Probable cost, 4s. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. / 
 
 OYSTERS, STEWED, ECONOMICAL. 
 
 Open a dozen oysters, and carefully preserve 
 the liquor. Put a piece of butter the size of 
 a small egg into an enamelled saucepan, pour 
 the oysters and their liquor into this, and 
 dredge a little flour over them. Season with a 
 pinch of salt and cayenne, and a little grated 
 nutmeg, and add three table-spoonfuls of cold 
 water. Shake the saucepan over a gentle fire 
 until the sauce is smooth a.nd thick, but the 
 oysters must not be allowed to boil. Serve on 
 toast, and pour out the gravy very carefully, 
 so as to leave undisturbed any grit or sedi- 
 ment that may have settled to the bottom. 
 Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 
 Sufficient for one or two persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, SWEETBREAD AND. 
 
 Take a calf's sweetbread, soak it in cold water 
 for an hour, boil it in salt and water for ten 
 minutes, and then cut it into pieces about the 
 size of an oyster, and with it two ounces of 
 bacon. Beard a dozen large oysters, and mix 
 them with the meat. Sprinkle over all a little 
 pepper and salt, two table-spoonfuls of chopped 
 parsley, a finely-minced shallot, half a tea- 
 spoonful of powdered thyme, and four ounces of 
 finely-grated bread-crumbs. Place the sweet- 
 bread, oysters, and bacon alternately upon 
 small skewers. Fry them in hot butter until 
 they are lightly browned, then remove the 
 skewers, and serve the oysters, etc., on a hot 
 dish. Squeeze the juice of a lemon over them, 
 and pour half a pint of good brown gravy upon 
 them. Probable cost, 3b. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. 
 
 OYSTERS, TO KEEP. 
 
 Cover the oysters with cold salt and water, 
 allowing six ounces of salt to each gallon of 
 water. When they have lain for twelve hours, 
 drain them, and leave them bare for the same 
 length of time, then put fresh salt and water 
 over them again, and repeat this change every 
 twelve hours until the oysters are wanted for 
 the table. They inay be kept alive thus for a 
 week or ten days in moderate weather. When 
 bysters are carefully and tightly packed in 
 
 barrels directly they are taken from the beds, 
 they will keep good for some days without 
 water. A handful of oatmeal is occasionally 
 put into the water which covers them, with the 
 idea of feeding the oysters, but though this 
 improves their appearance, it quite spoils their 
 flavour. 
 
 OYSTERS, VOL-AU-VENT OF. 
 
 Put into a basin half a pound of dried and 
 sifted flour, salt it slightly, and make it into a 
 soft paste by stirring into it the yolk of an egg, 
 which has been beaten up with the strained 
 juice of half a lemon and a little cold water. 
 Put the paste on a slab, and lay half a pound 
 of fresh butter in the middle of it, then roll it 
 oi^t four or five times, and put it in a cold place 
 for an hour: At the end of that time roll it out 
 again once or twice, and leave it a little more 
 than an inch thick. Dip a knife into hot water, 
 and cut the paste to the size and shape of the 
 dish on which the vol-au-vent is to be served. 
 Mark the cover by making an even incision the 
 third of an inch deep, and an inch froin the 
 edge all round, brush it over with yolk of egg, 
 place it on a bakipg-tin, and bake it in a hot 
 oven until it is well risen, and lightly browned. 
 Draw it out, and lift off the cover with the point 
 of a sharp knife, scoop out the soft paste frpm 
 the inside, and return the vol-au-vent to the 
 oven for a few minutes to dry. When ready 
 for serving, fill the' centre with oysters pre- 
 pared as follows. Beard two dozen oysters, and 
 put the beards and the liquor into a saucepan 
 with an inch of, lemon-rind, a small pinch of 
 salt, half an inch of mace, half a grain of 
 cayenne, and the tenth part of a nutmeg, 
 grated. Boil quickly for six or eight minutes, 
 then strain the gravy. Mix a table-spoonful of 
 flour smoothly with two ounces of butter. Add 
 a quarter of a pint of cream and the oyster 
 liquor, and simmer gently until the sauce is 
 smooth and thick. Put in the oysters, simmer 
 two or three seconds only, and serve. Time, 
 about half an hour to bake the vol-rau-vent ; 
 twenty minutes to prepare the oysters. Prob- 
 able cost, 5s. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 OYSTERS WITH LEG OF MUTTON. 
 
 Make half a dozen deep incisions in the thick 
 part of a well-kept leg of mutton, and fill them 
 witih a forcemeat made as follows. Boil a 
 dozen fresh oysters in their own liquor for two 
 minutes, beard them, and mince them finely 
 with a shallot, a table-spoonful of scalded and 
 chopped parsley-leaves, and the yolks of two 
 hard-boiled eggs. Tie the mutton in a cloth, 
 put it into boiling water, let it boil, then draw 
 it to the side of the fire, and simmer very 
 gently until it is done enough. Serve with 
 oyster sauce. Time to simmer, two and a half 
 to three hours, according to size. Sufficient for 
 eight or ten persons. Probable cost of oysters. 
 Is. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. 
 
 PADEIA CAKE. 
 
 Beat two ounces of fresh butter to a cream, 
 mix with it four ounces of ground rice, four 
 ounces of flour; two ounces of currants, washed, 
 picked, and dried, two ounces of muscatel 
 
PAL 
 
 490 
 
 PAN 
 
 raisins, chopped fine, a small pinch of salt, 
 two ounces of crushed loaf sugar, and a quarter 
 of a nutmeg, grated. When the dry ingredi- 
 ents are thoroughly blended, make them into a 
 dough, by stirring into them half a pint of luke- 
 warm milk, in which has been dissolved a salt- 
 spoonful of carbonate of soda, and which has 
 been flavoured by the addition of three or four 
 drops of the essence of almonds. Line a mould 
 with well-oiled paper, three-parts fill it with 
 the dough, and bake in a moderate oven. Time, 
 about one hour to bake the cake. Probable 
 cost, 8d. Sufficient for a small mould. 
 
 PALACE CREAM. 
 
 Mix well together the yolks of four eggs, half 
 ii pint of cream, a gill of brandy, and three 
 ounces of castor sugar. Pour the mixture into 
 u. jug and stand it in a saucepan of boiling 
 water. Stir it till it thickens, then add a few 
 drops of essence of Vanilla; and half an ounce 
 of soaked gelatine. Stir well for a few minutes 
 longer, and turn into a wet mould. When 
 cold, turn out of the mould, and decorate with 
 candied fruit or angelica. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 
 PALACE SWEETMEATS (for Dessert). 
 
 Take any quantity of freshly-candied peel or 
 citron, from which the sugar has been carefully 
 Temoved, and cut it into broad strips. Put 
 these on a fork or silver skewer, and dip them 
 into some liquid barley-sugar, then place them 
 on a dish, which has been well oiled, being 
 careful that the pieces do not touch, and let 
 them remain until cold. These sweetmeats are 
 easily made, and are much liked. They should 
 be stored in a tin box, with white paper be- 
 tween each layer; and when served should be 
 neatly piled on a dish, and garnished with 
 leaves. Probable cost. Is. 2d. per pound. Suf- 
 ficient, a quarter of a pound for a dish. 
 
 PALESTINE PUDDING. 
 
 Put a quarter of a pound of biscuit flour into 
 a bowl with a quarter of a pound of powdered 
 sugar, a quarter of a small nutmeg, grated, and 
 a pinch of salt. Add gradually a pint of new 
 milk, and beat the mixture with a wooden 
 spoon until it is quite smooth and free from 
 lumps, then put it into a saucepan, with two 
 ounces of fresh butter, and stir it over the fire 
 till it boils and is thick. Pour it out into a 
 shallow dish large enough to contain it, and 
 when it is quite cold and stiff, cut it up into 
 small fancy shapes, and fry them in a little 
 butter, until they are lightly browned. Serve 
 neatly arranged on a hot dish, with lemon- 
 sauce poured round them. The sauce may be 
 made as follows. Put the rind and juice of a 
 fresh lemon into a saucepan, with a quarter of 
 a, pint of water and two ounces of loaf sugar, 
 and let them boil until the sugar is dissolved, 
 and the syrup is clear ; strain, and serve. Time, 
 about ten minutes to fry the pudding. Prob- 
 able cost, lOd. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 PALESTINE SOUP. 
 
 Take three dozen Jerusalem artichokes, peel 
 ■them, and throw them into cold water as they 
 are done, or they will become discoloured. Put 
 them into a saucepan with four onions, the 
 outer sticks of a head of celery, and three pints 
 of white stock, and let them simmer gently for 
 
 an hour. Take out the onions and the celery, 
 and press the artichokes through a fine sieve; 
 put the puree back into the saucepan, and when 
 it is quite hot stir into it a pint of boiling 
 cream, or if preferred, a mixture of cream and 
 milk, season with salt, pepper, and grated nut- 
 meg, simmer a minute or two, and serve im- 
 mediately. Send fried bread, cut into small 
 dice, to table on a separate dish. If liked, two 
 bay-leaves can be used instead of onions and 
 celery. 
 PALESTINE SOUP (another way). 
 
 Peel two dozen freshly-dug Jerusalem arti- 
 chokes, and slice them into a stewpan contain- 
 ing three pints of stock, or of the liquid in which 
 a leg of mutton has been boiled. Add four 
 onions, four potatoes, a few sticks of celery, 
 two ounces of lean ham, and simmer all gently 
 together until the vegetables are soft enough, 
 then press them through a fine sieve, rubbing 
 them well with the back of a wooden spoon. 
 Return the pulp and the liquid to the sauce- 
 pan, season it well with salt, and add a little 
 sugar if the artichokes were old. Stir the soup 
 over the fire until it boils ; put in half a pint of 
 boiling milk or cream, and serve immediately. 
 The soup should not boil after the cream is 
 added. Time, an hour and a half. Probable 
 cost, lOd. per pint. Sufficient for six or seven 
 persons. 
 PANACHEE JELLY. 
 
 Take any quantity of perfectly clear and 
 transparent jelly, properly sweetened and 
 flavoured. Bissolve it, and divide it into two 
 equal portions, and colour one of these with 
 three or four drops of prepared cochineal. Soak 
 in cold water a mould large enough to contain 
 the whole of the jelly, then flU it with alter- 
 nate layers of the clear and the coloured jelly, 
 remembering only to let each layer become per- 
 fectly stiff before another is added. If the jelly 
 becomes so firm that it cannot easily be turned 
 out, a napkin may be wrung out of boiling 
 water, and wrapped round the mould for a 
 minute or two, and this will probably be all 
 that is required. Time, according to the state 
 of the weather. The jelly will of course stiffen 
 more quickly if the mould can be put into ice. 
 Probable cost of calf's foot jelly, 2s. per pint. 
 
 PANADA. 
 
 Panada is a preparation of bread which is 
 used by the French in making forcemeats, and 
 is much superior to the grated crumbs ordinarily 
 used in English kitchens. The flavouring re- 
 quired for the whole of the forcemeat is gener- 
 ally put into the panada, and this flavouring is 
 therefore a matter of considerable importance. 
 Panada is made as follows. Slice the crumb of 
 two French rolls into a basin, and pour over it 
 as much boiling milk or broth as will cover it. 
 Let it soak for half an hour, or until it is quite 
 moist, then press it with a plate to squeeze out 
 the superfluous liquid; afterwards put it into a 
 cloth, and wring it thoroughly. Put an ounce 
 of fresh butter into an enamelled saucepan, 
 with a little pepper and salt, half a blade of 
 mace, powdered, or a little grated nutmeg, half 
 a tea-spoonful of powdered thyme, two table- 
 spoonfuls of minced parsley, halt a dozen 
 chopped mushrooms, and a slice of lean ham. 
 
PAN 
 
 491 
 
 PAN 
 
 cut into dice ; a bay-leaf may be added or not. 
 Stew these ingredients over the fire for a, min- 
 ute or two, then add the soaked bread and two 
 table-spoonfuls of good white sauce or gravy. 
 Stir the mixture over a gentle fire, until it forms 
 a dry smooth paste and leaves the sides of the 
 saucepan, then mix in the unbeaten yolks of two 
 eggs; put the preparation between two plates, 
 and when cool it is ready for use. If preferred, 
 instead of mixing the herbs and seasoning with 
 the panada, the gravy or sauce may be sim- 
 mered with the seasoning, until it is highly 
 flavoured, and then strained over the bread. In 
 making the forcemeat, equal quantities should 
 be taken of whatever meat is to be used, panada, 
 and calf's udder, or butter, and these should be 
 pounded together in a mortar, until they are 
 thoroughly blended. When udder is used, it 
 should be well boiled with as much water as 
 will cover it, allowed to cool, then trimmed, 
 rubbed through a fine sieve, and added to the 
 forcemeat. The panada is to be stirred over 
 the fire until the mixture leaves the saucepan. 
 
 PANADA, BREAD. 
 
 Slice the crumb of two French rolls into a 
 basin, and pour over it as much boiling gravy 
 as it will absorb. When quite moist, beat it 
 well with a fork, add whatever seasoning is 
 required, put the bread into a saucepan with 
 an ounce of butter, and stir it over a gentle fire 
 until it is dry and smooth, and leaves the 
 saucepan with the spoon. When cool, it is 
 ready for use. Time, about half an hour to 
 soak the bread. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 PANADA, CHICKEN (Invalid Cookery). 
 
 Take the white meat off a cold boiled chicken, 
 and pound it to a paste in a mortar with a 
 little of the water the fowl was boiled in. Sea- 
 son with a little salt and nutmeg, and a few 
 drops of lemon-juice. Add some more of the 
 liquor, and boil it gently for a few minutes to 
 the desired consistency. It should not be too 
 thick to drink. This can often be taken when 
 the stomach rejects solid food. 
 
 PANADA FOR FISH FORCEMEAT. 
 
 Put the third of a pint of water into a 
 moderate-sized saucepan, with an ounce of fresh 
 butter and » pinch of salt. Let it boil, then 
 sprinkle in gradually four ounces of fine flour; 
 stir until the panada is smooth and stiff, then 
 add the unbeaten yolks of three eggs. Spread 
 the panada on a plate, and when cold it is 
 ready for use. Time, about a quarter of an 
 hour. Probable cost, 4d. 
 
 PANADA (Invalid Cookery). 
 
 Cut the crumb of a penny loaf into thin 
 slices, and put these into a saucepan with as 
 much chicken broth as will soak them. Let the 
 panada boil, then add a little sugar and grated 
 lemon-rind, and a glassful of light wine, if 
 approved. Serve immediately. Time, ten min- 
 utes. Probable coat, 8d. Sufficient for one 
 person. 
 
 PANADA (Invalid Cookery, another way). 
 
 Put a quarter of a pint of water and a glass- 
 ful of sherry into a saucepan, with a lump of 
 sugar and the very thin rind of a quarter of a 
 lemon, or, if preferred, a little mace. Let these 
 
 ingredients boil, then add three table-spoonfuls 
 of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Boil quickly 
 for five minutes, and serve. Probable cost, 6d. 
 Sufficient for one person. 
 
 PANADA SOUP. 
 
 Cut the crumb of two French rolls into thin 
 slices, and put them into a saucepan, with as 
 much cold water as will cover them. Let them 
 boil for five or six minutes, then press them 
 through a fine sieve, and put them back into 
 the saucepan, with the liquid in which they 
 were boiled, and two ounces of fresh butter 
 which has been beaten to a cream. Season the 
 mixture with a little salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; 
 stir it over the fire until it boils again, then add 
 the yolks of two eggs, which have been beaten 
 up with a quarter of a pint of new milk or 
 cream, and serve immediately. The soup must 
 not be allowed to boil after the eggs are added. 
 Time, altogether, three-quarters of an hour. 
 Probable cost, 7d., if milk be used. Sufficient 
 for two persons. 
 
 PANCAKE BALLS. 
 
 Dissolve half an ounce of yeast in a little 
 lukewarm milk, and mix it with half a pound of 
 flour, adding as much more milk as is needed to 
 make a stiff dough. Set this in a bowl by the 
 side of the fire, cover it with a cloth, and leave 
 it to rise. Beat two ounces of fresh butter to a 
 cream, rub five or six large lumps of sugar upon 
 the rind of a lemon until all the yellow part is 
 taken off, then crush the sugar to powder, and 
 mix it with the butter ; add four well-beaten 
 eggs, and knead all thoroughly with the dough. 
 Make the mixture into small balls, insert a 
 little marmalade or jam into the centre of each, 
 close the aperture, and put them in a warm 
 place to rise for a few minutes longer. Fry 
 them in boiling fat until they are lightly 
 browned, drain well, and dish them on a folded 
 napkin, with powdered sugar sifted over them. 
 Time, about ten minutes to fry the balls. 
 Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 PANCAKES. 
 
 The batter for pancakes is best when made an 
 hour or two before it is wanted for use. It 
 should be quite smooth, and of the consistency 
 of thick custard. The eggs should first be 
 whisked thoroughly, the yolks and whites separ- 
 ately, the flour should then be added, and beaten 
 until the mixture is quite free from lumps, 
 when the milk or cream should be put in. 
 In making plain pancakes, two table-spoonfuls 
 of flour and a quarter of a pint of milk should 
 be allowed to each egg. If a larger proportion 
 of eggs be used, less flour will be required. 
 The fire over which pancakes are fried should 
 be clear and bright, and the frying-pan scrupu- 
 lously clean and hot. In order to ensure this, 
 it is best to melt a little fat in it, then pour it 
 away, wipe the inside quickly round with a dry 
 clean rag, put in a little more fat, and after- 
 wards pour in the batter, which should cover 
 the pan entirely, and be as thin as possible. 
 The edges of the pancake should be kept free 
 from the pan with a knife, and the pan must be 
 shaken lightly, to prevent sticking. When the 
 batter is set, and the under side of the pancake 
 
PAN 
 
 492 
 
 PAN 
 
 nicely browned, the pan should be taken hold 
 of at the end of the handle, and lightly jerked 
 upwards-, so as to turn the pancake completely 
 over, and in a minute or two it will be ready 
 for serving. If any difficulty is found in throw- 
 ing up the pancake, it may be turned with a 
 slicer, or cut in two, and then turned. Pan- 
 cakes may be dished in various ways, either flat, 
 with sugar sifted between, or rolled and piled 
 on a hot napkin, or placed side by side in a 
 dish. Lemon and sugar are generally sent to 
 table with them, and they should be served as 
 hot as possible; they may be flavoured accord- 
 ing to taste. A few chopped apples, or a tea- 
 spoonful of dried currants, is sometimes mixed 
 with the batter, or sprinkled upon it when it is 
 set in the pan, and another thin coating of 
 batter poured over; and pancakes thus made 
 are called apple or currant pancakes. Pan- 
 cakes are much more easily fried in a small pan 
 than in a large one. Time to fry, five min- 
 utes. Probable cost of batter, 8d. per pint. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 PANCAKES (another way). 
 
 Break three eggs in a basin, add a little salt, 
 and beat them well up ; put to them four ounces 
 and a half of flour, mix together with milk till 
 the whole is of the consistency of cream. Heat 
 the frying-pan, and for each pancake put in a 
 piece of butter the size of a walnut. When the 
 butter boils, pour in the batter until the bot- 
 tom of the pan is covered. Fry the pancakes 
 on both sides to a light brown. Serve one by one, 
 or roll them up and send three or four together. 
 
 PANCAKES (k ra Celestine). 
 
 Heat two table-spoonfuls of apricot jam in 
 the oven. Beat and strain four eggs, mix a 
 quarter of a pound of flour very smoothly with 
 them, and add half a pint of milk gradually, 
 making a perfectly smooth batter. Melt a 
 small piece of butter in a small omelet-pan, 
 pour in two table-spoonfuls of the batter, let it 
 spread all over the pan, then fry the pancake 
 for two or three minutes until lightly browned 
 and cooked through. Turn the pancake on to a 
 dish, and keep it hot. Melt a fresh piece of 
 butter in the omelet-pan, pour in some more 
 batter, and proceed as before till all the batter 
 is used. Then, very quickly, put a tea-spocn- 
 ful of the hot jam in each of the pancakes, roll 
 them up very neatly, pile them on a white 
 napkin in a hot dish, sift sugar thickly upon 
 them, and serve at once. 
 
 PANCAKES {k la Crime). 
 
 Rub the rind of half a small fresh lemon with 
 three or four large lumps of sugar until the 
 yellow part is all taken off, then crush the sugar 
 to powder, and mix with it a pinch of powdered 
 cinnamon, a small pinch of salt, and an ounce 
 of dried flour. Make this into a smooth paste 
 with a little cold milk and an ounce of clarified 
 butter, then stir in very gradually half a pint 
 of thick cream, and the well-whisked yolks of 
 four and the whites of two eggs. Melt a 
 quarter of an ounce of butter in a small frying- 
 pan, fry the pancakes very quickly, and serve 
 them as hot as possible. They should be very 
 thin; a second supply of butter will not be 
 required for frying. Time, three or four 
 
 minutes to fry each pancake. Probable cost, 28. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 PANCAKES, FttENCH. 
 
 Make a batter by beating up together three 
 spoonfuls of potato-starch, five raw eggs, some 
 powdered loaf sugar, and a little water. Add 
 enough milk to make it of the consistency of 
 porridge. Butter well the inside of a frying- 
 pan, and place it over a moderate fire. When 
 it is sufficiently hot, pour in a large spoonful of 
 the batter, and shake the pan so as to spread 
 it over the whole of its surface. When the 
 pancake is done enough, throw it on a dish, 
 and sprinkle its surface with crushed loaf sugar, 
 or cover it with jelly. 
 PANCAKES, IRISH. 
 
 Beat eight yolks and four whites of eggs, 
 strain them into a pint of warm cream, add 
 grated nutmeg and sugar to taste. Put into a 
 frying-pan three ounces of fresh butter, stir it 
 over the fire, and as it warms pour it into the 
 cream, etc., then mix into a smooth batter with 
 about half a pint of fiour. Fry the pancakes, 
 which should be very thin ; the first with a piece 
 of butter, and the others without. Serve hot on 
 a napkin. 
 
 PANCAKES, NEW ENGLAND. 
 
 Mix a pint of cream, five table-spoonfuls of 
 fine flour, seven yolks and four whites of eggs, 
 and a very little salt. Make the pancakes very 
 thin, and fry them in fresh butter, and between 
 each sprinkle sugar and cinnamon. Serve very 
 hot. 
 PANCAKES, PLAIN. 
 
 Whisk two eggs thoroughly, and pour them 
 into a bowl containing four table-spoonfuls of 
 flour. Beat the mixture until it is smooth, and 
 quite free from lumps, then add a pinch of salt, 
 and two-thirds of a pint of new milk. Let the 
 batter stand in a cool place for an hour or two, 
 then fry the pancakes according to the direc- 
 tions given above ; half an ounce of dripping 
 will be required for each pancake. Time, five 
 minutes to fry one pancake. Probable cost, 4d. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 PANCAKES, POLISH. 
 
 Take eight eggs, and beat them up very 
 tLoroughly With about a pint and a half of milk 
 or cream, two ounces of oiled butter, half a 
 grated nutmeg, and about a dozen lumps of 
 sugar that have been rubbed on the rind of a 
 lemon. Mix in enough flour — about three- 
 quarters of a pound — to make a very smooth 
 batter. Melt a little butter in a frying-pan, and 
 when it frizzles pour in some of the batter, and 
 sprinkle a few currants over. When the pancake 
 is fried, shake some powdered sugar over it, roll 
 it up like an ordinary pancake, and serve hot. 
 PANCAKES, QUEEN OF. 
 
 Make a batter as follows. Beat two ounces 
 oi butter to a cream, add gradually two eggs 
 well whisked, a table-spoonful of castor sugar, 
 and two table-spoonfuls of flour; mix thor- 
 oughly, and stir in half a pint of milk. Butter 
 four small plates, pour an equal quantity of the 
 batter on each plate, and bake in a quick oven 
 for twenty minutes. Arrange two of the cakes 
 side by side on a. dish, spread a layer of jam 
 
PAN 
 
 493 
 
 PAR 
 
 on each, and cover with the other two pan- 
 cakes ; cut in quarters and sprinkle with sifted 
 sugar. 
 
 PANCAKES, RICE. 
 
 Boil half a pound of rice to a jelly with , a 
 little water. When cold, mix with it a pint of 
 cream, eight beaten eggs, and a little 3alt and 
 nutmeg. Stir in half a pound of butter, just 
 melted, and as much flour as will make a smooth 
 batter. Fry in a very little lard or dripping. 
 
 PANCAKES, RISSOLES. 
 
 Prepare a pint of batter as for plain pancakes, 
 and in making it substitute pepper and salt for 
 sugar and nutmeg. Mince a pound of cold veal 
 or beef very finely, and season it with salt, 
 cayenne, nutmeg, and grated lemon-rind. Fry 
 u, pancake in the usual way, and when it is set, 
 and lightly browned, put half a cupful of the 
 mince in the centre, and cover it by folding 
 over the ends and the sides; leave the pancake 
 in the pan a few minutes longer to heat the 
 meat, and as each rissole is finished, place it on 
 an inverted sieve before the fire to drain, until 
 the rest are ready for serving ; dish the rissoles 
 on a hot napkin, and garnish with parsley. 
 Time to fry, eight minutes. Probable cost, 
 Is. 3d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 PANCAKES, SCOTCH. 
 
 Mix three table-spoonfuls of flour to a smooth 
 paste with a little cold milk. Add a pinch of 
 salt, the well-beaten yolks of three eggs, two 
 drops of lemon, and two drops of ratafia flavour- 
 ing, a tea-spoonful of sugar, and half a pint of 
 new milk, or cream, if obtainable. Leave the 
 batter in a cool place until it is wanted for use, 
 then at the last moment stir in briskly the 
 whites of the eggs, which have been beaten to a 
 firm froth. Fry the pancakes in the usual way, 
 but instead of turning them, brown the upper 
 part with a salamander, or red-hot fire-shovel. 
 When the pancakes are done, spread quickly 
 over them a little jam or marmalade, roll them 
 up, and then serve them on a hot dish, with 
 powdered sugar sifted over them. If liked, 
 half a dozen ratafias, or three macaroons, may 
 be crushed to powder, and stirred into the bat- 
 ter. Time to fry the pancakes, five minutes. 
 Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 PANCAKES, SOUP OF (a German recipe). 
 
 Fry ij. couple of plain pancakes in the usual 
 way, and he taief ul to put no more fat into the 
 pan with them than is required to prevent them 
 sticking. Drain them on an inverted sieve, or 
 press them between two sheets of blotting- 
 paper, to free them from grease, and cut them 
 into narrow strips, about an inch long, or if 
 preferred into small diamonds or squares. Throw 
 them into a saucepan containing two pints of 
 clear brown gravy soup, boiling hot; let them 
 boil quickly for a minute or two, and serve. 
 Time, ten minutes to fry the pancakes. Prob- 
 able cost of pancakes, 4d. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. 
 
 PANCAKES, STUFFED. 
 
 Make a pint of batter, according to the direc- 
 tions given for plain pancakes. Fry some thin 
 pancakes, and as each one sets, and becomes 
 
 coloured, spread over it a layer of good veal 
 forcemeat, then roll it rather lightly, and lay 
 it on a dish before the fire until the batter is" 
 finished. Cut the rolls into slices an inch 
 thick, lay them on a buttered dish, and pour 
 over them as much boiling gravy as will cover 
 them. Grate a little nutmeg over before serv- 
 ing. If preferred, the stuffed slices of pancake 
 may be egged, bread-crumbed, and fried again 
 to a light brown,- instead of being served with 
 the gravy. Or they may be placed side by side 
 in a buttered dish, some custard poured over 
 them, and baked in a moderate oven until the 
 custard sets. Time to fry the pancakes, five 
 minutes. Probable cost. Is., exclusive of the 
 gravy. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 PANCAKES, WINDSOR. 
 
 Mix four table-spoonfuls of flour very 
 smoothly with a little cold milk. Add a pinch 
 of salt, half a small nutmeg, grated, six well- 
 beaten eggs, six ounces of clarified butter, and 
 a pint of new milk, or cream, if the latter can 
 be had. Beat the mixture thoroughly, and set 
 it in a cool place until wanted for use. No but- 
 ter or lard will be required in frying these pan- 
 cakes. Time to fry, five minutes. Probable 
 cost, when made with milk. Is. 3d. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. 
 
 PANCAKES, WITHOUT EGGS OR MILK. 
 
 Mix two table-spoonfuls of flour with a small 
 pinch of salt, two or three grates of nutmeg, 
 and a dessert-spoonful of moist sugar. Make a 
 smooth batter, by mixing with the flour, etc., 
 very gradually, half a pint of mild ale, and 
 beat it fully ten minutes. Pry the pancakes in 
 the usual way, and serve them with moist sugar 
 sprinkled between them. Time, ten minutes to 
 fry each pancake. Probable cost, about 4d. 
 Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 PAPILLOTE SAUCE, FOR VEAL OR MUTTON 
 CUTLETS (k la Maintenon). 
 Shred into a stewpan half an ounce of fat 
 bacon, with two small onions, finely minced. 
 Fry them gently for four minutes, then add half 
 a pint of thick brown sauce, a little pepper and 
 salt, a table-spoonful of chopped mushrooms, or 
 failing these, a table-spoonful of ketchup, a 
 table-spoonful of finely-minced parsley, and a 
 lump of sugar. Bojl the sauce for five min- 
 utes. It may be served either hot or cold. If 
 the flavour be liked, the saucepan can be rubbed 
 briskly with a clove of garlic before the other 
 ingredients are put in. Time, a quarter of an 
 hour to prepare. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. -^ 
 
 PARADISE, GRAINS OF, OR CARDAMOM-SEEDS. 
 
 Cardamoms are the capsules of a species of 
 plant of the natural order '^scitaminece. The 
 seeds form an aromatic pungent spice, weaker 
 than pepper, and with a peculiar but pleasant 
 taste. They are used in this country in con- 
 fectionery, but not to a very great extent. In 
 Asia, however, they are a favourite condiment; 
 and in the north of Germany they are em- 
 ployed in almost every household to flavour 
 pastry. Several kinds- of cardamoms occur in 
 commerce, but none are equal to what are 
 known as Malabar cardamoms, grown in the 
 mountains of Malabar and Cauara. 
 
PAR 
 
 494 
 
 PAR 
 
 PARADISE PUDDING. 
 
 Shred four ounces of beef suet very finely, and 
 mix with it an equal weight of finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs, half a salt-spoonful of salt, four 
 table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, half a salt- 
 spoonful of grated nutmeg, the grated rind and 
 strained juice of a fresh lemon or a bitter 
 orange, and six large apples, chopped small. 
 Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly, then add 
 three well-whisked eggs and a table-spoonful of 
 brandy. Put the mixture into a buttered mould, 
 which it must quite fill, tie a floured cloth over 
 it, plunge it into boiling water, and let it boil 
 quickly until it is done enough. Serve the pud- 
 ding on a hot dish, with a sauce made as follows, 
 poured over it. Put three table-spoonfuls of 
 apple jelly into an enamelled saucepan with 
 two table-spoonfuls of brandy. Stir them gently 
 until the jelly is dissolved, then pour in gradu- 
 ally a quarter of a pint of thick cream, and stir 
 the sauce briskly until it is on the point of boil- 
 ing. It is then ready for serving. If preferred, 
 this pudding may be baked instead of boiled. 
 Time to boil the pudding, three hours ; to bake, 
 one hour and a half. Probable cost. Is. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 PARISIENNE, CREME A LA. 
 
 {See Cbeam, a la Paeisienne.) 
 PARIS PUDDING. 
 
 Put a pint of new milk into a saucepan with 
 three small table-spoonfuls of ground rice; stir 
 it over the fire until it thickens, and when it is 
 nearly cold, mix with it the yolks of four and 
 the whites of two eggs, together with three 
 ounces of finely-shredded beef suet, three ounces 
 of chopped apples, weighed after they are peeled 
 and cored, two table-spoonfuls of chopped 
 raisins, two table-spoonfuls of powdered rusks 
 or finely-grated bread-crumbs, and a table- 
 spoonful of good jam. Blanch and pound 
 twelve sweet almonds and two bitter ones, mix 
 with them a quarter of a pound of powdered 
 sugar, four ounces of minced candied peel, a 
 grated nutmeg, and two or three drops of 
 vanilla essence. Add the flavourings to the 
 rest of the ingredients, and beat all together for 
 some minutes. A table-spoonful of brandy may 
 be added or not; pour the mixture into a well 
 oiled mould, which it will quite fill, cover it 
 with a sheet of oiled paper, tie it in a cloth, 
 put into boiling water, and keep it boiling 
 quickly for two hours. 
 PARIS SAUCE, FOR SWEET PUDDINGS. 
 
 Put a glassful of sherry into an enamelled 
 saucepan, with a large table-spoonful of 
 powdered sugar and the well-beaten yolks of 
 two eggs. Stir the mixture until it begins to 
 thicken, then add very gradually three table- 
 spoonfuls of thick cream; the sauce must not 
 boil after the cream is added. Time, three or 
 four minutes. Probable cost, exclusive of the 
 sherry, 6d. Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 PARKER HOUSE ROLLS. 
 
 When making bread, set aside sufficient 
 dough to make one dozen rolls. Work into it 
 one large table-spoonful of lard or butter. Let 
 this stand for four hours, then knead again and 
 allow it to stand for three hours longer. Roll 
 out, and out into round cakes almost as large as 
 
 a saucer. Fold them over, and leave them for 
 one hour. Brush over with warm butter, and 
 bake for half an hour. 
 PARKIN, GINGERBREAD. 
 
 (See GtNOEBBBEAD Paekin.) 
 PARKIN, OLDHAM. 
 
 Mix together in a bowl three and a half 
 pounds of flour and two pounds of oatmeal. 
 Hub into this two pounds of butter, and add 
 two pounds of sugar, two ounces of ginger, one 
 ounce of ground mace, six ounces of candied 
 lemon, finely chopped, a small nutmeg, grated, 
 and a table-spoonful of carbonate of soda. 
 Mix thoroughly. Warm three and a half pounds 
 of treacle slightly; stir a gill of cream into it, 
 and add the dry ingredients. Leave the mix- 
 ture to stand all night. Put it into a well- 
 buttered tin, let it rise before the fire for a 
 while, then bake in a moderate oven. This 
 parkin will improve with keeping for three or 
 four weeks. 
 PARLIAMENT OR " PARLEY " CAKES. 
 
 Put two ounces of fresh buttw into an 
 earthen jar with one pound of best tiseacle, and 
 place the jar near the fire until the\butter is 
 dissolved. Pour the warmed liquid ilpon one 
 pound of flour, add a table-spodnful of 
 powdered ginger, a piece of pearlash the size of 
 a nut, and a little alum ; beat the mixture until 
 it is smooth, then put it in a cool place until 
 the next day. Roll it out thin, cut it into 
 oblong squares, and bake these on a buttered 
 tin in a moderate oven. Time to bake, from 
 twenty minutes to half an hour. Probable cost, 
 about 8d. for this quantity. 
 
 PARLIAMENT PUDDING. 
 
 Whisk the yolks of seven and the whites of 
 four eggs well, first separately and afterwards 
 together. Boil half a pound of loaf sugar with 
 a pint of water, skim it carefully. When it is 
 a clear syrup, pour it over the eggs, add the 
 strained juice of a large lemon, and the yellow 
 part of half of it, which has been rubbed upon 
 sugar and powdered. Beat the mixture for 
 several minutes, and whilst beating shake in 
 gradually half a pound of dried flour. Take 
 care there are no lumps in the batter. Pour it 
 into a buttered tin, and bake it in a well-heated 
 oven till it is nicely set — say for about three- 
 quarters of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 2d. 
 Sufficient for flve or six persons. , 
 
 PARMENTIER CROQUETTES. 
 
 Put some mashed potatoes in a stewpan with 
 a small piece of butter, when hot add enough 
 cream to make it the consistency of a thick 
 batter, and a table-spoonful of chopped parsley. 
 Season to taste with salt, pepper, and a little 
 nutmeg ; lastly, stir in one or two yolks of eggs, 
 and allow to loind. Spread the mixture on a 
 dish, when cold shape into small balls, egg and 
 bread-crumb them, and fry in boiling fat to a 
 light golden brown. 
 
 PARMENTIER SOUP. 
 
 Slice ten large potatoes, blanch them, stew 
 them in stock with two leeks and a head of 
 celery tied together, and the crumb of a French 
 roll. When wie potatoes break under the pres- 
 sure of the finger, rub them through a sieve; 
 
PAR 
 
 495 
 
 PAR 
 
 mix with a sufflcient quantity of stock, add a 
 pinch of sugar and a little nutmeg. Eeturn to 
 the pot, and bring to boiling point; mix in a 
 pint of milk, a third of a pint of cream, and a 
 pat of fresh butter. Pour into a hot tureen, 
 and serve with sippets of toast. 
 
 PARMESAN AND CAULIFLOWER. 
 
 Boil a moderate-sized cauliflower in the usual 
 way, and drain it well. Put a large table- 
 spbonful of grated Parmesan into a stewpan, 
 with a quarter of a, pint of good white sauce, 
 and let them simmer together for four or five 
 minutes, then put in the drained cauliflower, 
 and let it boil very gently for ten minutes. Put 
 the vegetable into a hot dish, grate another 
 tablo-spoonful of Parmesan over it, brown it 
 with a salamander, or put it in the Dutch oven 
 for a minute or two, pour the sauce over it, and 
 serve. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for three 
 or four persons. 
 
 PARMESAN AND SOUP. 
 
 Grated Parmesan should be served with 
 macaroni and all other soups made with Italian 
 pastes. 
 
 PARMESAN CHEESE, BRITISH. 
 
 Put a piece of rennet into some fresh milk, 
 about 76 deg. in temperature. Let it stand 
 an hour or two, then put it over a gentle fire, 
 and let it heat very gradually until the curd 
 separates. Throw in half a cupful of cold water 
 to assist the separation, lift out the curd, drain 
 the liquid entirely from it, and press in the 
 usual way. Rub it every day for twenty-one 
 days with a little salt, and be careful that it 
 dries gradually. 
 
 PARMESAN CHEESE STRAWS. 
 
 Beat three ounces of fresh butter to a cream. 
 Mix with it three ounces of dried flour, three 
 ounces of grated Parmesan, and half a salt- 
 spoonful of cayenne. Roll the paste out thin; 
 cut it into strips three inches long, and the third 
 of an inch broad, and bake them on a buttered 
 tin in a quick oven\ Serve them immediately, 
 piled high on a napkin. Time, a few minutes 
 to bake. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for two 
 or three persons. (See also Cheese Steaws.) 
 
 PARMESAN FONDUE. 
 
 Mix an ounce of flour with a little cold water 
 to a smooth paste, and stir into it half a pint 
 of boiling milk. Season the mixture .with- a 
 little pepper and salt, and half a tea-spoonful 
 of made mustard, and add one ounce of fresh 
 butter and three ounces of grated Parmesan ; 
 then put it aside to cool. Have ready a well- 
 oiled mould, sufficiently large to allow for rising. 
 Beat the yolks of three eggs, and stir them 
 into the batter, and at the last moment add the 
 whites of the eggs, which should have been 
 whisked to a solid froth. Bake in a quick oven. 
 When set, the fondue is done enough, and must 
 be served immediately. Time, from half to three- 
 quarters of an hoiir. Probable cost, lOd. (See 
 also Cheese Fondtje.) 
 
 PARMESAN PUFFS. 
 
 Put four ounces of flnely-grated bread-crumbs, 
 four ounces of grated Parmesan, two ounces of 
 fresh butter, and a little salt and cayenne into 
 a mortar, and pound them thoroughly. Bind 
 
 the mixture together with a well-beaten egg, 
 and make it up into balls, the size of a large 
 walnut. Egg and bread-crumb these, and fry 
 them until uiey are lightly browned. The fat 
 must not be quite boiling when the puffs are 
 put in, or they will be too highly coloured. 
 Drain them, and serve very hot, piled on a nap- 
 kin. Time, four or five minutes to fry the puffs. 
 Probable cost, lOd. Sufficieat for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 PARR. 
 
 This is the name applied to salmon until the 
 close of their second year, when they lose their 
 dark lateral bars by the super-addition of a 
 silvery pigment. (See Salmon.) 
 
 PARSLEY. 
 
 The foliage of parsley is of use for flavouring 
 soups, etc., besides which it is nutritious and 
 stimulating, a quality which it seems to derive 
 from an essential oil present in every part of 
 the plant. Among the varieties of parsley are : 
 Plain-leaved parsley, which used to be the only 
 sort employed in cooking. It is not much cul- 
 tivated now, however, the curled varieties being 
 much more elegant ; besides — and this is a good 
 reason for avoiding it — it bears a marked re- 
 semblance to a poisonous British weed, the bit- 
 ter hemlock, or fool's parsley. It is well to 
 know that the leaves of fool's parsley are of a 
 darker hue than the genuine article, and that 
 when bruised they emit a very unpleasant 
 odour. When in flower, fool's parsley may also 
 be distinguished by what is popularly termed 
 its head. Curled-leaf parsley — this, both for 
 flavour and appearance as a garnish — is the best 
 sort of parsley. It cannot, too, be mistaken for 
 hemlock, being quite unlike that plant. Parsley 
 is a great favourite with sheep, hares, and rab- 
 bits, and is said to give their flesh a fine flavour. 
 Naples parsley, or celery-parsley, is used in place 
 of celery. It is a variety between parsley and 
 celery. Hamburg parsley is cultivated for its 
 roots. These grow as large as small parsnips. 
 When boiled they are very tender, and agreeable 
 to the taste, besides being very wholesome. 
 They are used in soup or broth, or eaten 
 with meat. The cultivation of parsley is ex- 
 tremely simple ; an annual sowing is generally 
 made. 
 
 PARSLEY, CRISP. 
 
 Crisp parsley is generally used for garnishing- 
 dishes. Pick and wash a handful of young pars- 
 ley. Shake it in a cloth to dry it thoroughly, 
 and spread it on a sheet of clean paper in a 
 Dutch oven before the fire. Turn the bunches 
 frequently until they are quite crisp. Parsley 
 is much more easily crisped than fried. 
 Time, six or seven minutes to crisp. Probabl& 
 cost. Id. 
 
 PARSLEY, FRIED (for garnishing). 
 
 Wash and dry the parsley thoroughly, by 
 swinging it backwards and forwards in a cloth. 
 Put it into hot fat, and let it remain until it is- 
 crisp ; take it out immediately, and drain it 
 before the Are. If the parsley is allowed to re- 
 main in the fat one moment after it is crisp it 
 will be spoilt. Parsley is best fried in a frying- 
 basket. If this is not at hand, the herb should 
 be taken out of the fat with a slicer. 
 
PAR 
 
 496 
 
 PAR 
 
 PARSLEY FRITTERS, BREAD AND. 
 
 (See Bread and Pabslet Fritters.) 
 
 PARSLEY JUICE, FOR COLOURING SAUCES, 
 ETC. 
 
 Pick a quantity of young parsley-leaves from 
 the stalks, wash and dry them well, and pound 
 them in a mortar. Press the juice from them 
 into a jar, and place this in a saucepan of boil- 
 ing water. Let it simmer gently until it is warm, 
 ■when it is ready for use. The juic? of spinach- 
 leaves, as well as that of parsley, is used for 
 colouring. It is prepared in the same way. 
 Time, three or four minutes to simmer the juice; 
 
 PARSLEY PIE. 
 
 Lay a fowl, or a few bones of the scrag of 
 veal, in a dish. Scald in milk a colanderful of 
 picked parsley; season it, and add it to the 
 fowl or meat, with a tea-cupful of any sort of 
 good broth or stock. Bake in the oven, and just 
 before lifting add a mixture of a quarter of a 
 pint of scalded cream, a piece of butter the size 
 of a walnut, and a tea-spoonful of flour. Shake 
 it round, to mix with the gravy already in the 
 vessel. 
 
 PARSLEY SAUCE. 
 
 The excellence of this sauce depends greatly 
 upon the parsley-leaves being chopped very 
 small. Take a handful of fresh parsley, if pro- 
 curable. Wash it, pick off the leaves, and boil 
 them quickly in salt and water for three min- 
 utes. Drain them well, and mince them as 
 finely as possible, then stir them into half a 
 pint of well-made melted butter or white sauce, 
 and serve immediately. If preferred, the pars- 
 ley may be boiled for ten minutes, then chopped 
 small, bruised, put into a tureen, and the sauce 
 poured over it. A little cold butter, broken 
 into small pieces, should then be stirred, until it 
 is melted, into the hot sauce, which must not be 
 served immediately. It is always best to send 
 parsley sauce to table in a tureen instead of 
 pouring it over the meat. Time, a quarter of 
 an hour. Probable cost, 4d. (See also Maitke 
 T)'H6tel Satjce.) 
 
 PARSLEY SAUCE, IMITATION. 
 
 'When parsley cannot be procured, a good 
 imitation of it may be made by tying a tea- 
 spoonful of parsley-seed in a little muslin, and 
 "boiling it with the water of which the sauce is 
 to be made till the flavour has been extracted. 
 A few spinach-leaves boiled, chopped, and stirred 
 into the sauce will give the appearance of 
 parsley, as the seed will impart its flajpur. 
 Time, a few minutes to boil the seed. 
 
 PARSLEY (when and how to preserve it for winter 
 use). 
 
 Gather the sprigs of parsley in May, June, 
 and July. Wash them well, and throw them 
 into a saucepan of boiling water slightly salted. 
 Let them boil for two minutes, then take them 
 out, drain and dry them before the fire as 
 quickly as possible, put them in a tin box, and 
 store them in a dry place. Before using the 
 parsley, soak it in warm water for a few min- 
 utes to freshen it. 
 PARSNIP. 
 
 This plant is a native of Britain. It contains 
 a considerable quantity of sugar, and is dis- 
 
 liked by some on account of its peculiarly sweet 
 taste. It is a frequent accompaniment to salt 
 fish during Lent. In Scotland t)arsnips and 
 potatoes are beaten together. The parsnip is 
 chiefly used in winter. It is improved rather 
 than the reverse by frost ; but is apt to become 
 rusty if allowed to remain too long in the 
 ground. After it has begun to grow again in 
 spring it exhibits acrid qualities. Both in 
 Great Britain and Ireland the root is used for 
 making parsnip wine (see Parsnip Wine), which 
 is held to resemble malmsey wine. Parsnips 
 may be dressed in the same way as carrots, which 
 they very much resemble. When boiled they 
 are generally served with boiled meat, or boiled 
 salt fish, or when fried, with roast miitton. If 
 young, they require only to be washed and 
 scraped before they are boiled, all blemishes 
 being of course removed. If old and large, the 
 skin must be pared off and the roots cut into 
 quarters. Carrots and parsnips are often sent 
 to table together. It should be remembered 
 that parsnips are more quickly boiled than 
 carrots. 
 
 PARSNIP CAKE. 
 
 Boil two or three parsnips until they are 
 tender enough to mash, then press them through 
 a colander with the back of » wooden spoon, 
 and carefully remove any fibrous stringy pieces 
 there may be. Mix a tea-cupful of the mashed 
 parsnip with a quart of hot milk, add a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, four ounces of fresh butter, 
 half a pint of yeast, and enough flour to make a 
 stiff batter. Put the bowl which contains the 
 mixture in a warm place, cover it with a cloth, 
 and leave it to rise. When it has risen to 
 twice its original size, knead some more flour 
 into it, and let it rise again ; make it into small 
 round cakes a quarter of an inch thick, and 
 place these on buttered tins. Let them stand 
 before the fire a few minutes, and bake them in 
 a hot oven. These cakes should be eaten hot. 
 They do not taste of the parsnips. Time, some 
 hours to rise; about twenty minutes to bake. 
 Probable cost. Is. for this quantity. Sufficient 
 for six or eight persons. 
 
 PARSNIP FRITTERS. 
 
 Boil four good-sized parsnips in salted water 
 until quite tender. Drain them, beat them to a 
 pulp, from which squeeze as much of the water 
 as possible. Bind the parsnip-mash together by 
 mixing smoothly with it an egg and a dessert- 
 spoonful of flour. Make it into oval cakes 
 with a spoon, and fry in hot dripping until they 
 are lightly browned on both sides. Drain them 
 on an inverted sieve, and serve neatly piled on a 
 hot napkin. Time to boil the parsnips, an 
 hour or more ; to fry them, a few minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 PARSNIP PUDDING. 
 
 Wash, scrape, and boil four or five large pars- 
 nips, mash them, and press them through a 
 colander. Stir in with them a little grated nut- 
 meg, or any other flavouring, one ounce of fresh 
 butter, and four well-beaten eggs, together with 
 two table-spoonfuls of brandy, if approved. 
 Butter a pie-dish, pour in the mixture, and 
 strew finely-grated bread-crumbs thickly over; 
 divide one ounce of butter into small pieces. 
 
PAR 
 
 497 
 
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 and place these here and there upon the pud- 
 ding. Bake in a moderate oven, and serve with 
 ■sweet sauce. This pudding may be boiled in- 
 stead of baked. When this is done, the mould 
 into which the mixture is. put should be thickly 
 lined with finely-grated bread-crumbs before the 
 pudding is turned in; Time, about an hour and 
 a half to bake ; an hour and a quarter to boil. 
 Probable cost. Is., exclusive of the brandy. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persona. 
 
 PARSNIPS, BOILED. 
 
 Wash and scrape the parsnips, and carefully 
 remove any blemishes there may be about them. 
 Cut them into quarters, and throw them into a 
 saucepan of boiling water, slightly salted. Let 
 them boil quickly, until they are sufficiently 
 tender for a fork or skewer to pierce them easily, 
 then take them up, drain thenij and send them 
 to table as quickly as possible. The water in 
 which parsnips are boiled should be carefully 
 skimmed two or three times after the roots are 
 put in. Time, from half an hour to an hour 
 and a half, according to the age and size of the 
 parsnips. Probable cost, l^d. each. Sufficient, 
 ' one large parsnip for two persons. 
 
 PARSNIPS, BOILED, COLD. 
 
 Cold parsnips are very good when eaten with 
 cold meat. To warm them up, put them into an 
 earthen jar, cover closely, and place the jar in a 
 saucepan of boiling water, which must be kept 
 boiling for about twenty minutes ; the parsnips 
 may then be served, and will be almost as good 
 as when first dressed. 
 
 PARSNIPS, BROWNED UNDER ROAST MEAT. 
 
 Boil the parsnips until tender, according to 
 the directions given above. Take them up, 
 drain well, sprinJsle a little salt and pepper over 
 them, put them in the dripping-pan under the 
 joint they are to accompany, and let them re- 
 main before the fire until they are nicely 
 browned. Send them to table in a dish by them- 
 selves, with two or three as a garnish round the 
 meat. Time, about a quarter of an hour to 
 brown the parsnips. Probable, cost, IJd. each. 
 Sufficient, one large parsnip for two persons. 
 
 PARSNIPS, FRIED. 
 
 Boil four or five large parsnips in salted water 
 until they are tender, but unbroken. Drain 
 them well, and cut them either into rounds or 
 long slices, a quarter of an inch thick. Dip 
 them into frying batter, and fry them in hot 
 lard or dripping until they are lightly browned 
 on both sides. Drain well, and serve very hot, 
 as an accompaniment to roasted joints or fowls. 
 The batter may be made as follows. Break an 
 ounce of fresh butter into small pieces, and pour 
 over it about two table-spoonfuls of boiling 
 water, stir until it is dissolved, then add a third 
 of a pint of oold water and a little salt and 
 pepper, and mix in, very gradually, six ounces 
 of fine flour. Just before the batter is used, add 
 the white of an egg beaten to a, firm froth. 
 Time, one hour or more to boil the parsnips ; a 
 few minutes to fry the rounds or slices. Prob- 
 able cost, 9d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 PARSNIPS, MASHED. 
 
 Scrape and boil four or five parsnips in salted 
 water until quite tender, then drain them, mash 
 32 
 
 them, and press them through a colander. Put 
 them into a stewpan; with two or three table- 
 spoonfuls of cream ; failing this, of milk, thick- 
 ened with a small tea-spoonful of flour and a 
 little butter. Stir the parsnips over the fire 
 until the liquid is absorbed and they are quite 
 hot; then turn them into a tureen, and serve 
 immediately. Time to boil, from three-quarters 
 of an hour to an hour and a half, according to 
 age and size. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 
 PARSNIP SOUP. 
 
 Put half a dozen sliced parsnips into a stew- 
 pan, with two onions, half a dozen sticks of 
 celery, and two quarts of good light-coloured 
 stock. Stew the vegetables until they are ten- 
 der, then dram them, press them through a 
 coarse sieve, and return the puree to the soup. 
 Let it boil, flavour with a little salt and pepper, 
 or cayenne, and serve very hot. A little boil- 
 ing milk may be added if liked. The excessive 
 sweetness of parsnip soup may be corrected by 
 the addition of a little tomato, or a table-spoon- 
 ful of chilli vinegar. Time, about two hours to 
 stew the vegetables. Probable cost, lOd. per 
 quart. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 PARSNIPS, STEWED. 
 
 Boil two moderate-sized parsnips until ten- 
 der, then drain, and cut them into slices about 
 half an inch thick and three inches long. Make 
 a little good white sauce with two ounces of 
 butter, a table-spoonful of flour, a table-spoon- 
 ful of stock, the third part of a pint of new 
 milk (or cream, if obtainable), and a little salt, 
 pepper, and grated nutmeg. Stir this sauce 
 over the fire until it is smooth and thick, put in 
 the sliced parsnips, simmer for a few minutes, 
 and serve. Time, five or six minutes to simmer 
 the parsnips in the sauce. Probable cost, 8d., 
 if the sauce be made with milk. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 PARSNIP WINE. 
 
 This beverage- is ' highly spoken of by those 
 who are accustomed to home-made wines. Clean, 
 and carefully remove any spongy or decayed 
 portions from the roots, quarter them, and 
 cut them into pieces about four inches long. 
 After they are thus prepared, weigh them, and 
 boil them", allowing four or five pounds of the 
 roots to each gallon of water. When they are 
 tender, without being pulpy, leave the lid off 
 the copper for a short time, to allow the escape 
 of the strong aromatic odour which will arise, 
 then strain the liquid through a hair sieve into a 
 tub, ' and be careful in doing so not to bruise 
 the roots. Add immediately half an ounce of 
 powdered white argol (a bi-tartrate of potas- 
 sium, procurable at the chemist's), to each gal- 
 lon of wine, and when it has been stirred a few 
 minutes, introduce three pounds of loaf sugar, 
 and stir again until the latteir is dissolved. 
 Leave the liquid uncovered until it is almost 
 cold, that is, until it is reduced to a tempera- 
 ture of eighty-five degrees. Cut a thick round 
 of bread from a half-quartern loaf, toast it, 
 and moisten it with fresh yeast (two table- ■ 
 spoonfuls will be sufficient for six- gallons of 
 wine); put this into the liquid, cover with a 
 flannel the vessel which contains it, and stir it 
 
PAR 
 
 498 
 
 PAR 
 
 every day until the fermentation subsides. The 
 vessel should be kept in » room or cellar where 
 from fifty to fifty-five degrees may be kept up, 
 and the yeast should be skimmed off as it forms. 
 In ten days or » fortnight the wine may be 
 turned into the cask. If a sweet wine is wanted 
 the barrel should be filled to the bung and left 
 for a few days ; then as it overflows it should be 
 filled up with a, small quantity of the liquid, 
 which has been preserved for the purpose. When 
 it is quiet, the hole may be covered with a piece 
 of brown paper, and if that remains unmoved 
 for a week the cask may be loosely bunged down, 
 and in a day or two, when the " fretting " is 
 quite over, made tight. This wine may be 
 racked off in six months, but should not be 
 bottled for at least a year. When a dry wine is 
 wanted, leave the liquid in the open vessel until 
 all the beer yeast has risen and been skimmed 
 off, then put it into the cask, and leave an 
 inch or two of space in the barrel ; frequently 
 stir in the yeasty froth, and to prevent the 
 liquor escaping cover it with a slate. Skim the 
 liquor thoroughly before securing it, and be 
 careful not to fill up the cask until the wine is 
 quite tranquil. Time to ferment the liquid, 
 ten or fourteen days, until the fermentation 
 subsides. Probable cost. Is. lOd. per gallon. 
 
 PARSNIP w;ne:, a simple way of making. 
 
 Take eighteen pounds of parsnips, and ten 
 gallons of water. Boil the parsnips in the 
 water till they are quite soft, then strain and 
 squeeze out the liquor, and to every gallon add 
 three pounds of lump sugar. Boil for three- 
 quarters of an hour, and when cool, ferment with 
 a little yeast on a slice of toast. Let the liquid 
 stand ten days in a tub, stirring every day. At 
 the end of that time put it into a cask. The 
 parsnip wine will be fit for bottling in six or 
 seven months. 
 
 PARSON'S PUDDING. 
 
 Line a pie-dish with puff-paste, place in it a 
 layer of any jam or jelly, cover this with bread 
 and butter, without crust, and pour over it a 
 quart of milk, in which four eggs and a quarter 
 of a pound of ground rice have been mixed and 
 well sweetened. Bake in a quick oven. Time, 
 over an hour. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient 
 for six or seven persons. 
 
 PARTRIDGE, CROUSTADES OF. 
 
 Cut seven pieces of bread into cutlet shape, 
 about three inches long and one and three- 
 quarters thick. Cut also a round of bread of 
 the same thickness and two and a half inches 
 in diameter. Fry them in hot fat, and drain on 
 a hot cloth. Cut out the middle part of each 
 with the point of a knife, to the depth of about 
 an inch. Fill the croustadcs with a salmi of 
 partridge (see Paetbidge, Sawii oi'), arrange the 
 long pieces round a hot dish, put the round one 
 on the top in the middle, and serve. 
 
 PARTRIDGES. 
 
 Partridges, like other game, should be hung 
 as long as it is safe to keep them. They should 
 be chosen young, as an old bird is comparatively 
 worthless. They are in season from the 1st of 
 September to the beginning of February. Par- 
 tridges when young covey together, and thus 
 the sportsman often shoots several at once. 
 
 When the winter comes on they retire to the 
 upland meadows, and hide themselves among 
 the grass. They are simple and timorous birds, 
 and are easily taken. The eggs of partridges: 
 are frequently hatched under the domestic hen, 
 and the young fed on ants' eggs, curds, and 
 grits, with a little green food ; when old enough 
 
 PARTKIDGE. 
 
 they are fed with grain. They are easily tamed, 
 though it is said they never wholly forget their 
 wild origin. The female partridge is smaller 
 than her mate, and less pleasing in colour; her 
 back is darker, and her belly without the brown 
 patch in its centre. The male is twelve inches 
 long and twenty broad, and the wing measures' 
 six and the tail three inches. The common 
 partridge is almost exclusively a European bird.. 
 In Europe' it is extensively distributed in all 
 suitable localities, and inhabits all the level 
 parts of England and Scotland. 
 
 PARTRIDGE SALAD. 
 
 Boast partridges, and let them get cold.; or 
 cut and trim the remains of cold partridges into, 
 convenient-sized pieces. Put these into a dish, 
 or bowl, then sprinkle over them a little salt 
 and cayenne, with a table-spoonful of minced 
 parsley and a table-spoonful of mixed herbs, 
 composed of equal portions of tarragon, chervil, 
 and chives. Add a table-spoonful of good veal 
 stock, three dessert-spoonfuls of tarragon vine- 
 gar, and a quarter of a pint of salad-oil. Let. 
 the partridges lie in this marinade for two hours. 
 Wash and dry thoroughly three fresh lettuces, 
 shred them finely, and lay them on a dish. 
 Drain the pieces of partridge, and put them on 
 the lettuce, ornament the dish with dried capers, 
 parsley, gherkins, hard-boiled eggs, anchovies, 
 aspic jelly, or anything else that is preferred, 
 and just before the salad is sent to table pour 
 the seasoned mixture, in which the pieces were 
 soaked, over it. Time to roast the partridges, 
 about half an hour. Probable cost of partridges, 
 3s. per brace. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, BAKED (k I'ltalinnne). 
 
 Pluck and truss a brace of partridges as if 
 for roasting, and put into each bird a force- 
 meat made as follows. Grate half an ounce of 
 stale bread into very fine crumbs. Season these 
 with as much salt and white pepper as will stand 
 on a threepenny-piece, and half a dozen grates 
 of nutmeg; work in with the fingers an ounce 
 of butter, and add a tea-spoonful of finely- 
 minced parsley, and a tea-spoonful of lemon- 
 jiiic'e. Dip two sheets of note-paper into some 
 pure salad-oil; peel, mince finely, and mix 
 
PAR 
 
 499 
 
 PAR 
 
 thoroughly three good-sized mushrooms, a mod- 
 erate-sized carrot, a small onion, two table- 
 spoonfuls of parsley-leaves, and half a dozen 
 leaves of thyme, with two or three truffles, if 
 these are obtainable. Divide the minced vege- 
 tables into two equal portions, and spread them 
 upon the paper, lay the partridges upon them, 
 and cover the breasts with fat bacon, tied 
 securely round with twine, and fasten the 
 paper. Lay the birds side by side, breasts up- 
 permost, in a deep pan, cover the partridges 
 closely, bake in a good oven, and baste once or 
 twice during the process. When they are done 
 enough, take off the paper and the bacon, put 
 the birds on a hot dish, and pour over them a 
 sauce made as follows. Put half a pint of good 
 stock into a saucepan, with an onion, the trim- 
 mings of the mushrooms and truffles, a slice of 
 carrot, and a little salt and pepper, if required. 
 Boil quickly for half an hour, then strain the 
 sauce, thicken it with a dessert-spoonful of 
 flour, add a dessert-spoonful of browning, two 
 table-spoonfuls of claret, and the minced, vege- 
 tables which covered the partridges; boil up 
 once, and serve. Time, from thirty to forty 
 minutes to bake the birds, if of moderate size. 
 Probable cost, 5s. Sufflcient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, BOILED (Invalid Cookery). 
 
 Partridges are occasionally boiled for old per- 
 sons or invalids, and they are delicate and 
 tender served thus. Wash them well, truss 
 them as chickens are trussed for boiling, with- 
 out the heads. Drop the birds into boiling 
 water, sprinkle a tea-spoonful of salt over them, 
 and let them simmer very gently for a quarter of 
 an hour, or if they are old, twenty minutes. 
 Serve them with sliced lemon round the dish, 
 and with white sauce, celery sauce, or bread 
 sauce, accompanied by game gravy, in a tureen. 
 Probable cost of partridges, 3s. per brace. Suf- 
 ficient for three or four persons. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, BRAISED (a la Bearnaise). 
 
 Pluck and draw a brace of partridges, and 
 wipe them carefully inside and out with a damp 
 cloth, cut off the heads, and truss the legs like 
 those of boiled fowls. Put the birds into a 
 stewpan, with two table-spoonfuls of oil and a 
 piece of garlic the size of a pea, and turn them 
 about over a clear fire until they are slightly, 
 browned all over, then pour over them two 
 table-spoonfuls of strong stock, one glassful of 
 sherry, and two table-spoonfuls of tomato sauce 
 or conserve, with a little salt, and plenty of pep- 
 per. Simmer all gently together until the 
 partridges are done enough, and serve very hot ; 
 the sauce should be rather highly seasoned. 
 Time, about ten minutes to simmer the par- 
 tridges. Probable cost of partridges, 3s. per 
 brace; the price, however, is very variable. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, BRAISED (k la ReineV 
 
 Trura a brace of partridges as if for boiling. 
 Tie thin slices of fat bacon over them, and fill 
 them with good game forcemeat, in which there 
 are two or three truffles cut into small 
 pieces. Slice a small carrot into a stewpan, with 
 an onion, four or five sticks of celery, two or 
 three sprigs of parsley, and an ounce of fresh 
 
 butter. Place the partridges on these, breasts 
 uppermost, pour over them half a pint of good 
 stock, cover with a round of buttered paper, 
 and simmer as gently as possible, until the par- 
 tridges are done enough. Strain the stock, free 
 it carefully from grease, thicken it. with a little 
 flour, add as much browning as is necessary, 
 and flavour with cayenne, half a dozen drops of 
 the essence of anchovy, and a table-spoonful of 
 sherry. Stir this sauce over a gentle fire until 
 it is on the point of boiling, then pour it over 
 the partridges, already dished upon toast, and 
 serve immediately. Time, about an hour and a. 
 half or less, to simmer the partridges. Prob- 
 able cost of partridges, 3s. per brace. Sufficient 
 for three or four persons. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, BRAISED, WITH CABBAGE. 
 
 Pluck and draw two partridges, truss them as 
 if for boiling, and cover with thin slices of 
 bacon, tied on securely with strong twine. 
 IVim and wash two small cabbages, or a savoy, 
 boil thsm, uncovered, for a quarter of an hour, 
 and afterwards drain them thoroughly. Slice 
 a carrot, an onion, and some sticks of celery, 
 into a stewpan. Put with them three ounces of 
 fresh butter, a large lump of sugar, crushed to 
 powder, a salt-spoonful of pepper, the eighth of 
 a grated nutmeg, and a little salt, the quantity 
 to be regulated by the saltness of the bacon. 
 Put a layer of cabbage over these, then lay in 
 the partridges, breasts uppermost, and after- 
 wards the rest of the cabbage. Cover the whole 
 with good stock, then simmer as gently as pos- 
 sible until the partridges are done enough; keep 
 moistening them with gravy, if required. Dish 
 the birds upon the bacon, and put the cabbage 
 round them. To make the gravy, mix an ounce 
 of butter with an ounce of flour, and stir them 
 over the fire for three minutes, add a pint of 
 good stock, and boil quickly for ten minutes.. 
 Strain the gravy into a tureen, and serve im- 
 mediately. Fried sausages are often sent to 
 table with this dish, which is a great favourite 
 in France. Time, about one hour and a half to 
 simmer the birds, etc. Probable cost of par- 
 tridges, 3s. per brace, but the price varies. 
 Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, BRAISED, WITH CELERY SAUCE. 
 
 Singe, draw, wipe, and truss two partridges 
 with their wings inside. Lay a piece of pork 
 rind in a saucepan, adding one carrot and one 
 onion, both cut in slices, two bay-leaves, one. 
 sprig of thyme, and the two partridges. Season 
 with a pinch of salt and pepper. When they, 
 have assumed a good golden colour, moisten 
 with half a pint of white broth, then put the 
 saucepan in the oven, and let the birds cook for 
 twenty minutes. Serve with a pint of hot celery 
 sauce poured over. (See Celebt Sauce.) 
 
 PARTRIDGES, BRAISED, WITH MUSHROOIMS. 
 
 Pick, draw, singe, and truss as for boiling, a 
 brace of young well-kept partridges. Dredge a 
 little flour over them, and brown them equally 
 and lightly in hot butter. Put them side by 
 side into a stewpan, pour to them as much rich 
 brown gravy, seasoned with salt and cayenne, 
 as will half cover them, and let them stew very 
 gently until they are half done. Turn them 
 over, put into the gravy with them two dozen 
 
PAR 
 
 500 
 
 PAR 
 
 small mushrooms, and simmer again until the 
 birds are done enough. Serve tibem on a hot 
 dish, with the sauce poured over them. Time, 
 about one hour and a half. Probable cost, 5s. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, BRAISED, WITH TRUFFLES. 
 
 Truss three young well-hung partridges, and 
 braise them according to the directions given in 
 the last recipe. Wash, wipe, and pare two or 
 three fine truffles. Cut them into thin slices, 
 put them into a stewpan, with a little salt and 
 cayenne, a finely-minced shallot, and two table- 
 spoonfuls of chopped parsley. Pry them gently 
 for about a quarter of an hour, and be careful 
 not to break them ; then drain them, and put 
 with them half an ounce of butter, the strained 
 juice of a lemon, and a quarter of a pint of the 
 brown gravy in which the partridges have been 
 cooked. Let the sauce boil. Drain the par- 
 tridges. Place them on a hot dish, in the form 
 of a triangle, pour part of the sauce into the 
 centre, and send the rest to table in a tureen. 
 Time, one hour and a half to cook the birds ; a 
 quarter of an hour to fry the truffles. Probable 
 cost of partridges. Is. 6d. each; truffles, vari- 
 able. Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, BROILED. 
 
 Prepare the partridges as if for roasting ; cut 
 off their heads, split them entirely up the back, 
 and flatten the breastbones a little. Wipe them 
 thoroughly inside and out with a damp cloth, 
 season with salt and cayenne, and broil over a 
 gentle fire. As soon as they are done enough 
 rub them quickly over with butter, and send 
 them to table on a hot dish, with brown gravy 
 or mushroom sauce in a tureen. Time, fifteen 
 minutes to broil the birds. Probable cost of 
 partridges, 3s. per brace. Sufficient for four 
 persons. 
 PARTRIDGES, BROILED (another way). 
 
 Prepare the partridges as in the last recipe, 
 sprinkle over them a little salt and cayenne, 
 then dip them twice into clarified butter and 
 very fine bread-crumbs, taking great care that 
 the birds are entirely covered. Place them on a 
 
 fridiron over a clear fire, and broil them gently, 
 end them to table on a hot dish, with brown 
 sauce or mushroom sauce in a tureen. Time to 
 broil the partridges, a quarter of an hour. 
 Probable cost, 3s. per brace. Sufficient for four 
 persons. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, CHARTREUSE OF. 
 
 Boil some carrots and turnips separately, and 
 cut them into pieces two inches long and three- 
 quarters of an inch in diameter. Braise two 
 , small summer cabbages, or a savoy, drain them 
 well, and stir them over the fire until they are 
 quite dry; then roll them on a cloth, and cut 
 them into pieces about two inches long and an 
 inch thick. Roast a brace of partridges, and 
 cut them into neat joints. Butter a plain entree 
 mould ; line it at the bottom and the sides with 
 buttered paper, and afterwards fit in the pieces 
 of carrot and turnip, to form a sort of wall; 
 then fill it up with the cabbage and the pieces 
 of partridge in alterufite layers. Steam the 
 chartreuse to make it hot; turn it out of the 
 mould upon an entree dish, and garnish with 
 turnips, carrots, and French beans. Send some 
 
 good brown sauce to table with it. Time, half 
 an hour to roast the partridges; two hours to 
 braise the cabbage ; steam the chartreuse until it 
 is quite hot. Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, CHOOSING. 
 
 Partridges should be chosen young : when the 
 legs are yellow, the bills sharp and dark- 
 coloured, and the under feathers of the wings 
 pointed. If the vent is stiff, the bird is fresh, 
 and if it is green and discoloured, the bird has 
 been killed some time. The legs turn grey as 
 the bird grows older. Old partridges are not 
 good for much. The season for the common par- 
 tridge lasts from September to February. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, COLD, SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Boil an egg until it is quite hard. Let it get 
 cold, then rub the yolk into a paste with the 
 back of a wooden spoon, and with it the flesh of 
 a very small anchovy, from which the bones and 
 skin have been removed, also a finely-minced 
 shallot, a tea-spoonful of mustard, and a little 
 cayenne. When the dry ingredients are thor- 
 oughly blended, add, very gradually, two table- 
 spoonfuls of oil and three taMe-spoonfuls of 
 vinegar. Strain the sauce through muslin, and 
 serve. Time, ten minutes to boil the egg. 
 Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, MAYONNAISE OF. 
 
 Roast a brace of partridges, cut them into 
 neat joints, and put them aside for a few min- 
 utes. Boil two eggs for ten minutes, put them 
 into cold water, and when they are cold take out 
 the yolks, put them into a basin, and rub them 
 smooth with the back of a wooden spoon. Add 
 a small quantity each of salt, pepper, and 
 mixed mustard, then very gradually four table- 
 spoonfuls of oil, one table-spoonful of tarragon 
 vinegar, four table-spoonfuls of aspic jelly, or 
 failing this, good stock. If liked, the jelly or ' 
 stock can be omitted. Put the partridges on a 
 dish, pour the mayonnaise gently over them to 
 cover them, and place a few hearts of freshly 
 cut cabbage lettuce round them. Garnish the 
 dish with hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters 
 lengthwise, and slices of boiled beetroot. Prob- 
 able cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 PARTRIDGE, SOUFFLE OF. 
 
 Take the remains of cold partridge, two eggs, 
 one onion, six cloves, one ounce of butter, one 
 ounce of flour, pepper, salt, nutmeg, one pint of 
 stdck or water. Remove the meat, and put the 
 bones into a saucepan, also an onion stuck with 
 cloves, and a pint of stock or wa,ter. Let them 
 simmer for an hour and a half, or till the stock 
 has reduced about one-half. Mince the meat 
 and pound it in a mortar, sprinkle a little pep- 
 per and salt and a dust of nutmeg. When the 
 stock is ready, melt the butter, add the flour, 
 and let it brown; then pour in the stock very 
 gradually, stirring all the time, let it boil up, 
 and pour enough over the meat to make it the. 
 consistency of ordinary mince, add the yolks of 
 two eggs; beat the whites to a stiff froth, and 
 add them at the last moment. Put the mixture 
 into a souffle dish or ramakin cups, and bake in 
 a very hot oven for about ten minutes. 
 
PAR 
 
 501 
 
 PAR 
 
 PARTRIDGES, PIE OF. 
 
 Pluck, draw, and singe thjree ybung par- 
 tridges, and divide them into halves, length- 
 wise. Mince the livers finely, and mix with 
 them a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, a salt- 
 spoonful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of pepper, 
 two table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs, and as 
 much powdered mace as will cover a threepenny- 
 piece ; then put the forcemeat into the birds, 
 and a piece of fresh butter, the size of a walnut, 
 in each half. Butter a shallow pie-dish, and 
 line the edges with a good crust. Lay a slice of 
 lean veal at the bottom, and season lightly with 
 salt, pepper, and powdered mace. Wrap the 
 birds in thin slices of fat bacon, pack them 
 closely, breast downwards, upon the veal, and 
 pour over them a quarter of a pint of good veal 
 stock. Cover the dish with the pastry, orna- 
 ment it prettily, brush it over with beaten egg, 
 and bake in a moderate oven. This is a savoury 
 dish, suitable either for breakfast, supper, or 
 luncheon. Time to bake, one hour and a half. 
 Probable cost, 6s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, PIE OF (another way). 
 
 Pluck, draw, and singe a brace of young 
 partridges, and season them, inside and out, 
 with a little salt, cayenne, and powdered mace. 
 Cover them with thin rashers of fat bacon, and 
 put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a 
 pint of veal stock, or water : put on the lid, 
 and let them simmer as gently as possible for 
 half an hour. Whilst they are simmering, make 
 a forcemeat, by mincing together, very finely, a 
 quarter of a pound of lean veal, a quarter of a 
 pound of fat bacon, and a quarter of a pound 
 of liver. Season this with salt, cayenne, and 
 powdered mace, and spread half of the force- 
 meat at the bottom of the dish. Take out the 
 birds, and cut them into quarters. Lay half of 
 the bacon which was tied round them upon the 
 forcemeat, then pack in the partridges, and 
 cover them with the remainder of the force- 
 meat and bacon. Pour in three table-spoonfuls 
 of the gravy in which the partridges were sim- 
 mered. Line the edges of the dish with good 
 pastry, and cover with the same. Make a hole 
 ' ' in the centre and bake in a quick oven. Before 
 sending the pie to table, pour in a quarter of a 
 pint of good gravy, which has been slightly 
 flavoured with lemon-iuice. Time to bake, 
 about one hour. Probable cost, 4b. 6d. Suf- 
 ficient for three or four persons. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, PIE OF, HUNTER'S. 
 
 Pluck, draw, and singe three young par- 
 tridges, divide them into halves, sprinkle over 
 them a little salt, cayenne, and powdered mace, 
 and fry them in a little hot butter until they 
 are equally and lightly browned all over. Line 
 the edges of a shallow pie-dish with a good crust. 
 Lay two or three thin slices of the fillet of veal 
 and bacon at the bottom, and sprinkle over them 
 two table-spoonfuls of finely-minced mushrooms, 
 a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a little 
 salt and cayenne. If mushrooms cannot be 
 had, a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup may 
 supply their place. Pour a quarter of a pint 
 of onion sauce over the veal, then pack the birds 
 closely into the dish, breast uppermost, and add 
 some more mushrooms, parsley seasoning, and 
 
 onion sauce. jCover the pie with a good crust, 
 ornament it prettily, brush it over with beaten 
 egg, and bake in a moderate oven. Pour a 
 quarter of a pint of melted savoury jelly into 
 the pie before sending it to table. Time, an 
 hour and a half to bake the pie. ' Probable cost, 
 7s. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, POTTED. 
 
 Prepare and truss the partridges as if for 
 roasting, and season them inside and out with 
 pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Put a jiiece 
 of fresh butter, the size of a large egg, inside 
 the birds, and pack them, breast downwards, 
 closely, together in a pie-dish. Place three or 
 four pieces of butter upon them, cover the dish 
 with a coarse paste, made of flour and water, 
 and bake them in a moderate oven. Do not 
 remove the covering until the dish is quite 
 cold; then take out the birds, free them en- 
 tirely from gravy, cut them into convenient- 
 sized pieces, and pack them as closely as possible 
 in a potting-jar, cover with clarified butter, and 
 store in a cool place. Time, one hour to bake 
 ' the partridges. Probable cost, 3s. per brace. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, POTTED (another way). 
 
 Pick the meat from the remains of cold roast 
 partridges, which have been well dressed. Ee- 
 move all the skin and gristle, mince the meat 
 finely, and pound it in a mortar. Add, every 
 now and then, a small quantity of fresh butter, 
 and season with salt, cayenne, and grated nut- 
 meg. When the meat is quite smooth, press it 
 into small jars, cover with dissolved butter, and 
 store in a cool place. About two ounces and a 
 half of butter will be required for each half 
 pound of meat. Time, forty minutes to roast 
 the partridges. Probable cost, 38. per brace. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, PUDDING OF. 
 
 The flavour of partridges is never better pre- 
 served than when they are cooked in a pudding. 
 Pluck, draw, and singe a brace of well-kept 
 partridges, cut them into neat joints, and if 
 they are not very young, take off the skin before 
 doing so. Line a quart pudding-basin with a 
 good suet crust, half an inch in thickness, and 
 in trimming it off leave an inch above the edge. 
 Lay a thin slice of rump steak at the bottom of 
 the pudding, then put in the pieces of partridge, 
 season with pepper and salt, and pour over 
 them a quarter of a pint of good brown gravy. 
 Boll out the cover, lay it on the pudding, 
 moisten the edge, and press over it the inch that 
 was left round the rim. Wring a pudding-cloth 
 out of hot water, flour it well, and tie it securely 
 over the pudding. Plunge it into boiling water, 
 and keep it fast boiling all the time it is on the 
 fire; as soon as it is taken off, cut a small 
 round of pastry out of the top, to let the steam 
 escape. If the appearance is not objected to, 
 partridge pudding, like all other meat pud- 
 dings, is much better when served in the dish in 
 which it was cooked. If it is to be turned out, 
 however, the basin must be thickly buttered 
 before the pastry is put in. A few mushrooms 
 will be a great improvement to this pudding, 
 though it will be very good without. Time, 
 three hours to boil. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. Suf- 
 ficient for six or seven persons. 
 
PAR 
 
 502 
 
 PAR 
 
 PARTRIDGES, RED-LEGGED. ^ 
 
 These birds should be cocked according to the 
 directions given for the oidinary partridges. If 
 
 EEDLEGGED PAETEIDGE. 
 
 they be hung a proper length of time they are 
 very good, otherwise they are hard and taste- 
 less. Probable cost, uncertain, red-legged par- 
 tridges being seldom offered for sale. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, ROAST. 
 
 Let the partridges hang as long as possible, 
 
 or the flesh will be hard and flavourless. In cool 
 
 weather they should be kept fully, a fortnight 
 
 , before'they- are put down to the fire. . They may 
 
 . be trussed either with or without the head, 
 
 • though the latter mode is at present more 
 
 generally preferred. Pluck, singe, and draw 
 
 the birds, and wipe them carefully, inside and 
 
 out; cut off the heads, and leave enough skin 
 
 Ml the neck to skewer them securely. Draw the 
 
 legs close to the breast, pass the trussing-needle 
 
 and string through the pinions and the middle 
 
 Joints of the thighs, and tie and skewer the 
 egs. If the heads are left on, they should be 
 brought round, and turned under the wing, with 
 the bill laid on the breast. To give the birds a , 
 plump appearance, pass the needle through the 
 back, below the thighs, then again through the 
 body and legs, and tie the strings firmly. Put 
 the birds down before a clear fire, baste liber- 
 ally with butter (a quarter of a pound will be 
 required for a brace), and a few minutes before 
 they are taken up flour them well, so that they 
 may brown nicely. The birds may be dished 
 upon fried bread-crumbs, or upon a slice of but- 
 tered toast which has been soaked in the gravy 
 ia the pan under them, or they may be put 
 on a hot dish, and garnished with water-cress. 
 Brown gravy and bread-sauce should be sent to 
 table with them ; two or three thin slices of fat 
 bacon, tied round the birds before they are put 
 down to the fire, will greatly improve their 
 flavour ; when obtainable, a large vine-leaf may 
 be laid on the breasts under the bacon. Time 
 to roast a brace of partridges, thirty to forty 
 minutes. Probable cost, 3s. per brace ; but the 
 price varies considerably. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, ROAST (a German recipe). 
 
 Truss the partridges in the ordinary way. 
 Place a vine-leaf upon the breast of each, over 
 this lay two or three thin slices of fat bacon, 
 and fasten these on securely with strong twine. 
 Put the birds into a stewpan, just large enough 
 to hold them, with as much butter as will keep 
 them well basted, and when they are browned 
 
 on one side turn them to the other, until they 
 are equally coloured all over. When they are 
 done enough, pour a cupful of thick cream over 
 them, and sprinkle bread-crumbs, browned in 
 butter, upon them. Time, a quarter of an hour 
 to roast the birds. Probable cost, 3s. per brace. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, ROAST, TO CARVE. 
 
 The partridge is cut up in the same way as a 
 fowl (see Fowl, Roast, to Cabve.) The prime 
 parts of a partridge are the wings, breast, and 
 merry-thought. When the bird is small, the 
 two latter are not often divided. The wing is 
 considered the best, and the tip of it is regarded 
 as the most delicate morsel of the whole. " Par- 
 tridges," says Dr. Kitchener, " are cleaned and 
 trussed in the same manner as a pheasant, but 
 the ridiculous custom of tucking the legs into 
 each other makes them very troublesome to 
 
 CARVDTO OF PARTRIDGE. 
 
 carve. In connection with the subject of carv- 
 ing, it cannot be too often repeated that more 
 information will be gained by observing those 
 who carve well, and by a little practice, than by 
 any written directions whatever." 
 
 PARTRIDGES, SALMI OF (4 la Chasseur). 
 
 Take cold roast partridge — if underdone so 
 much the better — cut it into neat joints ; remove 
 the skin, fat, and sinew, and lay the pieces in a 
 saucepan with four table-spoonfuls of salad-oil, 
 six table-spoonfuls of claret, the grated rind and 
 strained juice of a large fresh lemon, and a 
 little salt, popper, and cayenne. Simmer gently 
 for a few minutes until the salmi is hot through- 
 out, then serve it immediately. Garnish with 
 fried sippets. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient 
 for two persons. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, SALMI OF (k la Fran^alse). 
 
 Roast a brace of well-hung young partridges, 
 baste them liberally, and take them down when 
 they are only three-parts cooked. Let them get 
 cold; then cut them into neat joints, remove 
 the skin, fat, and sinew, and put the good parts 
 aside, being careful to cover them, and keep 
 them in a cool place to prevent their becoming 
 hard. Melt three ounces of fresh butter in a 
 saucepan. Put with it a dozen small mush- 
 rooms, a scraped carrot, two sliced shallots, half 
 a blade of mace, a bay-leaf, a handful of parsley- 
 leaves, a medium-sized onion, stuck with two 
 cloves, a small sprig of thyme, and four ounces 
 of uncooked lean hani, cut into small pieces. 
 Stir these over a gentle fire until' they are lightly 
 browned, sprinkle over them a table-spoonful of 
 flour, let it brown slightly, and then stir in, 
 very gradually, a pint of good veal gravy 
 and a glassful of sherry. Add the bones and 
 
PAR 
 
 503 
 
 PAR 
 
 f rimmings of the birds, and boil the sauce gently 
 until it is considerably reduced; then strain it, 
 let it boil up once more, put in the pieces of 
 partridge, and when they are quite hot, dish the 
 salmi, and serve immediately. Garnish the dish 
 ■with toasted sippets. When mushrooms cannot 
 be obtained, their place may be supplied by a 
 table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup. Time, an 
 hour and a half to simmer the sauce. Probable 
 «ost. Is. 6d., exclusive of the partridges. Suf- 
 ficient for half a dozen persons. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, SALMI OF (another way). 
 
 When the partridges are roasted expressly for 
 the salmi, they ought to be underdone, and they 
 should not be cut up until they are quite cold. 
 A very good salmi, however, may be made of the 
 remains of cold partridge. Cut the birds into 
 neat joints, carefully remove the skin, fat, and 
 sinew, and put the good pieces aside. Bruise 
 the remainder, and put it, with the skin, bones, 
 and trimmings, into a saucepan. Add two shal- 
 lots, a bay-leaf, three or four sprigs of parsley, 
 and an ounce of fresh butter, and stir these 
 about over a gentle fire until they are lightly 
 "browned. Sprinkle over them a table-spoonful 
 of flour, and pour iii three-quarters of a pint of 
 veal stock and a glassful of sherry ; piit in half 
 a dozen peppercorns, a little salt, and half a 
 ."blade of mace and simmer the gravy very ge:;itly 
 «ntil it is considerably reduced. Strain it, and 
 let it boil up again; then put in the pieces of 
 partridge, and when they are quite hot, serve on 
 a hot dish, with the gravy poured over them. 
 If liked, the livers of the birds may be pounded, 
 and mixed with the sauce. Garnish with 
 toasted sippets. Time, an hour and a half to 
 simmer the gravy. Probable cost, Is., exclusive 
 of the partridge. Sufficient for two or three 
 persons. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, SALMI OF, COLD. 
 
 Roast a brace of young partridges ; cut them 
 into neat joints, and lay them on a dish. Pre- 
 pare the sauce according to the directions given 
 in the last recipe. When it is sufficiently re- 
 duced, strain it, and dissolve in it a quarter of an 
 ounce of gelatine, which has been soaked for 
 ialf an hour in as much cold water as would 
 cover it. Cover the joints of the partridges with 
 the sauce, let it stiffen upon them, and then 
 arrange them, piled high in a dish, and garnish 
 with the savoury jelly, cut into rough pieces. 
 Time, an hour and a half to simmer the sauce. 
 Probable cost, 5s. Sufficient for half a dozen 
 persons. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, SOUP OF. 
 
 Roast a brace of partridges before a brisk fire, 
 so that they may brown quickly outside with- 
 out losing their juice. Take them down when 
 they are half cooked, cut off the breasts, and 
 break up and bruise the bodies of the birds. 
 Melt two ounces of fresh butter in a saucepan; 
 slice into it two young carrots and four or five 
 sticks of celery, and add two ounces of un- 
 dressed lean ham, an onion, stuck with four 
 cloves, half a blade of mace, two shallots, a 
 bay-loaf, four or five bunches of parsley, and a 
 small sprig of thyme. Stir these over a gentle 
 fire until the sides of the saucepan acquire a 
 , reddish-brown tinge, then add the bodies of the 
 
 birds, and, gradually, two quarts of good stock 
 and six ounces of brown roux. Remove the fat 
 and the scum, let the soup boil, and press 
 it through a fine sieve. Put it again into 
 the saucepan with the breasts of the birds, cut 
 into small neat pieces, add a glassful of sherry, 
 and a little salt and cayenne, if required; let 
 the soup get thoroughly hot, without boiling, 
 and serve immediately. A very nice soup may 
 be made from grouse and partridge together; 
 or even from the remains of a cold roast grouse, 
 stewed down with the partridges. Time, two 
 hours and a half. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. per 
 quart. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, SOUP OF (another way). 
 
 When partridges are too old to be satisfac- 
 torily cooked in any other way, they may be 
 made into soup, but it must be understood that 
 the soup will not be so good, as if it were made 
 from young birds. Skin the partridges and 
 cut them into joints. Fry them in butter with 
 two sliced onions until lightly browned. Put 
 them into a saucepan with three ounces of un- 
 cooked lean ham and four or five sticks of 
 celery, and pour over them two quarts of good 
 stock. Bring the soup to a boil, skim care- 
 fully, then draw it to the side of the fire, and 
 let it simmer gently for an hour. At the end of 
 ■that time put into it a tea-spoonful of salt and 
 half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, and stew 
 another hour. Strain the soup, pick the meat 
 from the birds, and pound it in a mortar to a 
 smooth paste, and with it its bulk in bread, 
 which has been soaked in stock and pressed very 
 dry. Mix this gradually with the soup, pass it 
 again through a sieve, put it into a saucepan, 
 bring it to the point of boiling, and serve im- 
 mediately. Probable cost. Is. lOd. per quart. 
 Sufficient for half a dozen persons. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, STEWED. 
 
 Truss a brace of partridges as if for boiling, 
 put them into a stewpan, cover with boiling 
 stock or water, and put with them two onions, 
 two carrots, a bunch of sweet herbs, half a 
 blade of mace, and a little salt and cayenne. 
 Simmer gently iintil they are tender, then take 
 out a pint of the liquid in which they have been 
 stewed!, and make with it some celery, onion, or 
 Soubise sauce. Serve the birds as hot as pos- 
 sible, with the puree poured over them. Time, 
 about thirty minutes to stew the partridges. 
 Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, STEWED, WITH CABBAGE. 
 
 Clean a brace of partridges, and cut them in 
 two ; wash well a head of cabbage and quarter 
 it, lay it in a deep pie-dish, place the birds 
 upon it, with slices of fat bacon on top of all. 
 Pour on them a tea-cupful of stock, and season 
 with pepper and salt. Cover closely, and cook 
 for two hours in a moderate oven. 
 
 PARTRIDGES, STUFFED WITH MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Take a pint of small mushrooms, and clean 
 them by rubbing the tops with a piece of flannel 
 and a little salt ; rinse in a little cold water, 
 lift them out quickly, and spread them on a 
 clean cloth to dry. Dissolve two ounces of fresh 
 butter in a saucepan over a slow fire, let it 
 colour slightly, then throw in the mushrooms. 
 
PAS 
 
 504 
 
 PAS 
 
 sprinkle over them a little salt and cayenne, 
 and shake the saucepan over the fire for ten 
 minutes. Turn out the contents upon a dish, 
 let them get cold, and with them stuff two 
 young well-huug partridges. Sew up securely, 
 truss firmly, and roast or stew the birds in the 
 usual way; send mushroom sauce, or, if pre- 
 ferred, bread sauce, and gravy, to table with 
 them. Time, half an hour or more to roast or 
 to stew the partridges. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 PASTE, BISCUIT. 
 
 Take one pound of flour, a quarter of a pound 
 of sugar, six yolks of eggs, and a wine-glassful of 
 milk; work all together into a stiff paste. This 
 is good for tarts baked in pans, or for lining 
 moulds. 
 
 PASTE, BRIOCHE. 
 
 Brioche paste may be served in a great 
 variety of ways, all of which are excellent. It 
 may be baked in one large cake; in fancy 
 shapes, such as rings and twists; or in small 
 loaves, rolls, or buns. Gruyere and Parmesan 
 cheese or sweets may be introduced into it, or 
 small portions may be stewed in soup, or fried, 
 or used as the outer crust in which rissoles are 
 cooked. Its most usual form, however, is that 
 of a sort of double cake, the two parts being 
 moulded separately, and moistened before they 
 are joined^ to cause them to adhere closely to 
 one another. The upper portion of the brioche 
 
 PASTE-BOARD AND PIN. 
 
 should be made smaller than the lower one, and 
 the entire cake should be brushed over with 
 beaten egg before it is put into the oven. It 
 must be baked in a well-heated oven. The 
 quantity only which will be wanted for im- 
 mediate use should be made at one time, as 
 brioche paste will not keep. When properly 
 prepared it is light and springy to the touch 
 before it is baked, and it ought to rise in the 
 sponge to fully twice its original size. It is 
 made as follows. Take a pound (weighing six- 
 teen ounces) of dried and sifted flour. Divide it 
 into four parts, and with one of these parts 
 make the leaven. To do this, put the flour 
 into a bowl, make a hollow in the middle of it, 
 and pour into this hollow half an ounce of 
 German ye^st dissolved in a. spoonful or two 
 of warm water. Add as much water as is re- 
 quired to make the whole into a soft smooth 
 paste, gather it into a ball, and put it into a 
 bowl large enough to contain three times its 
 quantity. Score the. paste lightly across the 
 top with the blunt side of a knife, cover with 
 a cloth, and put it in a warm place to rise ; it 
 will be ready in about twenty minutes. Whilst 
 
 it is rising take the remaining three parts of 
 the flour, make a hole in the centre, and put 
 into this hole a quarter of an ounce of salt, half 
 an ounce of powdered sugar dissolved in two 
 table-spoonfuls of tepid water, ten ounces of 
 butter, which has been washed in two or three 
 waters, squeezed in a cloth to free it from 
 moisture, and broken into small pieces, and 
 four eggs freed from the specks. Work all 
 gtntly together with the fingers, and add one 
 by one three more eggs, until the paste is quite 
 smooth, and neither too hard to be worked 
 easily nor so soft that it sticks to the fingers. 
 When the leaven is sufficiently risen, put it 
 upon the paste, and mix both together with the 
 fingers gently and thoroughly. Put the dough 
 into a basin, and leave it in a warm place all 
 night. Early on the following morning knead 
 it up afresh, let it rise two hours longer, and 
 knead once more before it is baked. Brioche 
 paste should be put into a well-heated oven. 
 The time required for baking depends, of course, 
 upon the size of the cake. Its appearance will 
 soon show when it is done enough. The mate- 
 rials here given, if baked iff one cake, would 
 require about half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 
 Sufficient for half a dozen persons. 
 
 PASTE FOR COMMON PIES. 
 
 Very excellent pastry may be made with lard 
 or dripping, instead of butter, or with a mix- 
 ture of lard and dripping Good beef fat, or 
 suet melted gently down, and poured off before 
 it has had time to bum, is very nearly as good 
 as anything that can be used for making pastry 
 for everyday use. Very palatable pies may be 
 made from the dripping from roast beef, veal, 
 pork, or mutton, though the last named is 
 thought by some to impart a disagfreeable 
 flavour of tallow to pastry. The quantity of 
 fat used must, of course, be regulated by the 
 expense, and it may be remembered that a 
 rich crust is neither so digestible nor so suit- 
 able for many dishes as a substantial light one, 
 and that the lightness of pastry depends quite 
 as much upon a light, quick, cool hand as on a 
 large amount of butter or lard. The addition 
 of a beaten egg or a little lemon-juice to the 
 water, or a tea-spoonful of baking-powder to 
 the flour, will make the paste lighter. It should 
 be remembered, however, that though bakirig- 
 powder is excellent for common pastry that is 
 to be used immediaiiely, pies are more likely to 
 get dry quickly when it is used; Two recipes 
 are here given for good plain pastry, and they 
 may be varied according to the taste and re- 
 sources of the cook. 
 
 PASTE FOR MEAT OR FRUIT PIES, ETC. 
 
 Mix the eighth part of a peck of flour with 
 sufficient cream and raw eggs to form into a 
 paste. Add half a pound of butter broken in 
 pieces, which must not be too small, and roll the 
 paste lightly. To make paste for custards, mix 
 'the flour with boiling water and butter, sugar 
 being added, if necessary. If this is done, it 
 will be found to increase the stiffness of the 
 paste. (See also Ckust, Dbipping.) 
 
 PASTE FOR MEAT OR SAVOURY PIES. 
 
 Sift two pounds of fine flour to one and a half 
 ' of good salt butter, which has been broken up. 
 
PAS 
 
 505 
 
 PAS 
 
 and washed well in cold water; rub gently 
 together the butter and flour, mix them up with 
 the yolks of three eggs, beat the whole together 
 with a spoqn, and nearly a pint of spring water'; 
 roll out the paste, double it in folds three times, 
 and it is ready. 
 
 PASTE FOR RAISED PIES. 
 
 In making raised, pies the first consideration 
 is whether the pastry is intended to be eaten or 
 not. If it is intended merely to form a mould 
 in which to hold the meat, it may be made firm 
 and compact without very much difficulty, and 
 may be beaten with the rolling-pin or kneaded 
 with the knuckles to make it stiff and hard. 
 If it is intended to be eaten, greater care will 
 be necessary. It must be Remembered that 
 small pies are much easier to make than large 
 ones, and the very easiest and best way for in- 
 experienced persons to make them is to use one 
 of the tin moulds which are manufactured for 
 the purpose, and which opens at the sides. The 
 French pastry named Pate Brisee, the recipe for 
 which i-s given (see Cktjst, Pate Bkisbe), makes a 
 good crust for small raised pies. When the pastry 
 is not to be eaten, dissolve three or four ounces 
 of lard in half a pint of boiling water, and stir 
 in as much flour as will make a stiff smooth 
 paste. A little more than a pound of flour will 
 be required. Knead it thoroughly with the 
 fingers, and when it is sufiiciently firm to keep 
 its form when moulded, put it into a bowl, and 
 cover with a cloth until it is nearly cold. 
 Dredge a little flour on the pastry-board, put 
 the pastry upon it, and roll the dough with the 
 hands into the shape of a sugar-loaf or cone, 
 with the diameter of the lower part rather less 
 than the size required for the pie. Place the cone 
 upright, and flatten the top until it is half the 
 height. Press it down with the knuckles of the 
 right hand, at the same time forming the walls 
 of the pie with the left. When the sides are 
 smooth, and of equal thickness, fill the pie, 
 roll out the cover, lay it on, and make a hole in 
 the centre. Fasten the edges securely with a 
 little egg, ornament the pie according to fancy, 
 glaze it by brushing it over with the beaten 
 yolk of an egg, and bake in a quick oven. 
 An easier way of shaping a raised pie is to roll 
 out the pastry to the required thickness, and 
 then cut out a piece for the top and bottom, 
 and a long' strip for the sides. These pieces 
 must be fastened with egg, and the edges 
 pressed over one another, ' so as to be securely 
 fastened. The pie may then be finished ac- 
 cording to the directions given above. When 
 the crust is intended to be eaten, the pastry 
 may be made according to the directions given 
 for Pate Brisee (see Cbtjst, Pate BEisfeE), or as 
 follows. Eub a quarter of a pound of butter 
 into a pound of flour. Sprinkle over it a small 
 tea-spoonful of salt. Put another quarter of a 
 pound of butter into a saucepan, with the third 
 of a pint of milk. Stir it over a gentle fire 
 until the butter is dissolved, then pour the 
 liquid over the flour, and stir it to a smooth 
 stiff paste. Dredge some flour over it; give it 
 two or three turns, and mould it into the proper 
 shape before it has had time to cool. Time to 
 bake raised pies, from two to five hours, 
 according to size. 
 
 PASTE, FRENCH. FOR MEAT PIES, HOT OR 
 COI.D. 
 
 Put into a bowl a pound of flour, and rub 
 lightly into this half a pound of fresh butter. 
 Add half a tea-spoonful of salt, and make the 
 mixture up into a smooth stiff paste, by stir- 
 ring in<;o it two fresh eggs which have been 
 beaten up with rather less than a quarter of a 
 pint of water. Roll the pastry out, give it two 
 or three turns, and bake as soon as possible. 
 Time, ten minutes to prepare. Probable cost. 
 Is. 2d. 
 
 PASTE, PUFF (an easy way of making). 
 
 Dry and sift the flour, and prepare the butter 
 as in the last recipe. Equal weights of butter 
 and flour may be used, or three-quarters of a 
 pound of butter to each pound of flour. Put a 
 little salt into the flour, and make it into a- 
 paste by stirring gradually into it with a knife 
 rather less than half a pint of water. Roll it 
 out till it is an inch thick. Divide the butter 
 into quarters: break one of these quarters into 
 small pieces, and sprinkle them over the paste. 
 Dredge a little flour over it, and turn it over, 
 then repeat the process until all the butter is 
 incorporated with the paste. Let ithe paste 
 rest for ten minutes between each two rolls. 
 Equal parts of lard and butter may be used for 
 this paste, and if the yolk of an egg or the 
 strained juice of half a lemon be mixed with 
 the water in the first instance, the paste will 
 be lighter. Probable cost. Is. 2d. per pound. 
 (i't'e also Purr-PASTE, Household.) ' 
 
 PASTE, PUFF, OR FEUILLETAGE. 
 
 This paste, though decidedly superior to 
 every other kind in appearance and taste, is 
 rather indigestible for delicate persons. Good 
 sweet salt butter, which- has been well washed 
 in cold water, squeezed with the hands to iice 
 it from the salt, and afterwards wrung in a 
 cloth to take away all the moisture, is the best 
 material which can be used for it. The consist- 
 ency of the butter is of considerable importance. 
 If it is too hard, it will not easily mix with the 
 flour, but if it is too soft, the paste will be 
 entirely spoilt, in consequence of the butter 
 breaking through the edges whilst it is being 
 rolled. As the difficulty experienced is gener- 
 ally to get the butter sufficiently cool, many 
 cooks place it upon ice before using it for the 
 pastry. In hot weather, the paste should be 
 placed on a marble slab for a few minutes, to 
 keep it cool between each turn. If very flaky 
 pastry is required, the paste may be brushed 
 lightly over each time it is rolled with white of 
 egg. In making puff-paste proceed as follows. 
 Put on a cle.an pastry-board or slab one pound 
 of best flour thoroughly dried and sifted; 
 make a hole in the centre, and put into it half 
 a tea-spoonful of salt, and rather less than half 
 a pint of water. The exact quantity of water 
 cannot be given, but experience will soon 
 enable the cook to determine when the paste is 
 sufficiently stiff. It should be mixed in gradu- 
 ally with a knife, and should form a clear 
 smooth paste, being worked lightly with the 
 hands, until it ceases to adhere to them or to 
 the board. Let it remain on the slab for two 
 minutes. Have ready prepared three-quarters 
 
PAS 
 
 506 
 
 PAS 
 
 of a pound of butter, freed, from salt and mois- 
 ture. Flatten the paste till it is an inch thick, 
 lay the butter in the centre, and fold over the 
 four sides of the paste, so as to form a square, 
 and completely hide the butter. Leave this to 
 cool for two or three minutes, then dredge the 
 slab and the paste with flour, and roll the paste 
 out till it is three feet in length, and be es- 
 pecially careful that the butter does not break 
 through the flour. (See what was said above on 
 this subject.) Fold over a third of the length 
 from one end, and lay the other third upon it. 
 This folding into three is called giving one turn. 
 Put the paste in a cool place for ten minutes, 
 give it two more turns, rest again, and let it 
 jSave another two. This will be in all flve turns, 
 and these will generally be found sufficient. 
 If, however, the pastry is to be used for vol-au- 
 vents or patties, six or seven times will be re- 
 quired. &ather the paste together and it is 
 jready for use, and may be used at once, or left 
 till next day. Handle it all the time as lightly 
 as possible, and remember to dredge a little 
 iour . over it, the board, and the rolling-pin 
 ■every time the dough is rolled, to keep it from 
 ■sticking. French cooks mix the yolks of two 
 ■eggs with the flour and water in the first in- 
 stance. If a very rich paste is required, a pound 
 ,of butter finay be put with a pound of flour. 
 Probable cost. Is. 2d. per pound. 
 
 PASTE, RICH CREAM, FOR TARTS. 
 
 Dry and sift a pound of flour, and mix with 
 it half a tea-spoonful of salt and a table-spoon- 
 ful of crushed loaf sugar. Bub into it a 
 quarter of a pound of sweet butter, and mix 
 gradually with it sufiicient cream to make it 
 into a smooth paste. If cream cannot be had, 
 the yolks of two eggs may be beaten up with a 
 little milk, and substituted for it. RoU the 
 paste out two or three times, and use as 
 quickly as possible. Probable cost, if made 
 ■with cream, Is. 6d. per pound. 
 
 PASTE, SCRAPS OF, HOW TO USE. 
 
 If any scraps or shreds of paste are left after 
 making pies or tarts, gather them into one 
 lump, and roll this out until it is as thin as 
 possible. Stamp it into fancy shapes, prick 
 these lightly with a fork, place them on a 
 baking-tin, and bake in a quick oven until they 
 are firm, without being browned. Sift powdered 
 sugar over them, and serve prettily arranged 
 Tound a dish of stewed fruit. Time, about eight 
 minutes to bake. 
 
 PASTE, SHORT, FOR TARTS AND FRUIT PIES. 
 
 Put a pound of dried and sifted flour into a 
 bowl, and mix with it half a tea-spoonful of 
 salt and a table-spoonful of powdered sugar. 
 Hub half a pound of butter, or butter and lard, 
 into the flour, and make it into a paste by 
 stirring in rather more than a quarter of a pint 
 of water or milk : the yolks of two eggs may be 
 added or not. Roll the paste out once only; 
 bandle it lightly, and use it as required. Prob- 
 able cost, lOd. per pound. 
 
 PASTE, SHORT, FOR TARTS AND FRUIT PIES 
 
 (another way). 
 Mix a small tea-spoonful of salt with a pound 
 of dried flour. Rub in four ounces of butter 
 and four ounces of lard or good beef dripping. 
 
 Add a tea-spoonful of baking powder, and a 
 table-spoonful of powdered sugar. Make the 
 whole into a stiff paste by stirring in a little 
 water, roil it out lightly once only, and it is 
 ready for use. Time, ten minutes to prepare. 
 Probable cost, 9d. 
 
 PASTE, SHORT, FOR TARTS AND FRUIT PIES 
 
 (another way). 
 To one pound and a quarter of fine flour add 
 ten ounces of fresh butter, the yolks of two 
 beaten eggs, and three ounces of sifted loaf 
 sugar ; mix up together with half a pint of new 
 milk, and knead it well. This crust is fre- 
 quently iced. 
 
 PASTE, SUET, FOR BOILED PUDDINGS. 
 
 Chop very finely six ounces of beef suet, 
 freed from skin and sinew, and whilst chopping 
 it keep dredging a little flour over it. Mix with 
 it one pound of flour, and add as much cold 
 water as will make the mixture up into a firm 
 smooth paste. Roll it out, and it is ready for 
 use. If a richer crust be required, a larger 
 proportion of suet may be used, but this is 
 quite good enough for ordinary purposes. Time, 
 ten minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 4d. 
 
 PASTE, SUET, FOR BOILED PUDDINGS (another 
 way). 
 Pick and chop very fine half a pound of beef 
 suet, add to it one pound and a quarter of 
 flour, and a little salt ; mix it tvith half a pint 
 of milk or water, and beat it well with the roll- 
 ing-pin, to incorporate the suet with the flour. 
 
 PASTE, TRANSPARENT, FOR TARTS, ETC. 
 
 Wash three-quarters of a pound of best salt 
 butter in two or three waters, and press it well 
 to free it from moisture. Put it into a saucepan 
 over a gentle fire, until it is melted without 
 being oued, then set it. aside, and when it is 
 nearly cold, stir into it a well-beaten egg and 
 a pound of dried and sifted flour. Roll it out 
 till it is very thin, line the tartlet-tins with it 
 as quickly and lightly as possible, brush them 
 over with water, sift powdered loaf sugar upon 
 them, and bake in a moderate oven for about 
 ten minutes. Probable cost. Is. 2d. 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 In making pastry, the first thing to be re- 
 membered is that every article used in its pre- 
 paration should be scrupulously clean ; and in 
 order to ensure this it is best to have all the 
 utensils washed and thoroughly dried directly 
 after they are used, and dusted when they are 
 again required. In addition to this there must 
 be good materials, a well-regulated oven, a cool 
 room, and a cook who brings to her work a 
 cool, light, quick hand, close attention, and a 
 little experience. There are four principal 
 kinds of pastrjr : pufE-paste, or f euilletage ; short 
 crust, for family use ; standing^CTust, for meat 
 and fish pies ; and brioche paste, ^ijiich is a sort 
 of dough used for loaves, rolls, and buns. As 
 cools hands are required, it is best to wash them 
 in water as hot as can be borne aiminute or two 
 before making the pastry.' The heat of the 
 oven should in most cases be moderate, and the 
 door should be only opened when it is a\bsolutely 
 necessary during the process of baking. The 
 best way of ascertaining if the oven is properly 
 
PAS 
 
 ■507 
 
 PAS 
 
 heated is to bake a small piece of pastry in it 
 tefoi'e putting in the pie or tart. Standing 
 crusts require a quicker oven than ordinary 
 pastry. In all cases wetting the pastry much 
 will make it tough. 
 
 PASTRY, ALMOND. 
 
 Make some square thin pieces of puff paste, 
 pound some sweet and a few bitter almonds 
 very small, mix them with the white of an egg 
 and a little sugar ; spread this upon the pieces 
 of pastry, and bake them in an oven till they 
 are as crisp as possible. 
 
 PASTRY CREAM, FOR GARNISHING TARTLETS 
 AND OTHER PASTRY. 
 
 Rub together one ounce of flour and a well- 
 beaten egg. When quite smooth, add a small 
 pinch of salt, one ounce of powdered and sifted 
 sugar, and a, quarter of a pint of milk, and stir 
 the mixture over the fire until it boils. Draw 
 the saucepan to the side, cover closely, and let 
 the contents simmer gently for a quarter of an 
 hour; then turn the mixture into a bowl, and 
 add to it the yolks of two eggs and a table- 
 spoonful of powdered ratafias, with any addi- 
 tional flavouring that may be liked. Put a 
 lump of butter the size of a small egg into a 
 saucepan, place it on a gentle fire. As soon as 
 lit .is lightly coloured stir it 4nto the flavoured 
 cream. "When cold it is ready for use. Prob- 
 able cost, 6d. 
 
 PASTRY, GLAZING OF. 
 
 Glazed pastry is generally used for meat pies 
 or raised pies. If it is wished to give a deep 
 glaze to the pie, beat the yolk of an egg thor- 
 oughly, and when the pastry is almost done 
 enough, take it out of the oven and brush it 
 lightly over with the egg, then put it in again 
 a minute or two to set. If a lighter glaze is re- 
 quired, brush the pie with the whole of the 
 egg, to which a spoonful of milk may be 
 added or not. Time, five or six minutes to 
 set the glaze. Probable cost. Id. The yolk 
 of one egg will be enough to glaze three' or 
 four pies. 
 
 PASTRY, GOOD PLAIN. 
 
 Mix a tea-spoonful of salt with a pound of 
 flour. Hub in a quarter of a pound of rather 
 soft lard or dripping, until the ingredients are 
 thoroughly blend!ed, then add two tea-spoonfuls 
 of baking-powder. Draw the mixture to one 
 side of the bowl, pour a little water into the 
 vacant space, and with the fingers _work the 
 ingredients to a soft paste. Lift the pastry out 
 in small quantities as it acquires the proper 
 consistency. Roll it out till sufficiently firm 
 to incorporate another four ounces of lard with 
 it, dredge a little flour on it, give it one or two 
 turns, and it is ready for use. This pastry re- 
 quires a quick oven. Time, ten minutes to 
 make. Probable coat, 6d. 
 
 PASTRY, GOOD PLAIN (another way). 
 
 Mix a tea-spoonful of salt with a pound of 
 flour. Hub in lightly six ounces of butter or 
 lard, or half butter and half lard, and stir water 
 in briskly with a fork. When the mixture is 
 smooth and compact, roll it out two or three 
 times, and it is ready for use. Time, ten min- 
 utes to make. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. 
 
 PASTRY, ICED. 
 
 Iced pastry is generally used for fruit tarts 
 and sweet dishes; there are two or three ways 
 of doing it. First — beat the white of an egg to 
 a firm froth. When the pastry is almost done 
 enough take it out of the oven, brush it over 
 with the egg, cover it with powdered sugar, 
 sprinkle a few drops of water upon it, and re- 
 turn it to the oven for a few minutes to harden, 
 ta;king care that it does not colour. Or — mix 
 half a pound of powdered and sifted sugar with 
 the white of an egg, beaten to a firm froth, and 
 two table-spoonfuls o| cold water ; keep stirring 
 until the icing is used. When the pastry has 
 been baked, and is nearly cold, brush it over 
 with the icing, and put it into a cool oven to 
 harden. Or — moisten the pastry with cold 
 water before baking it, and press a thick coat- 
 ing of powdered sugar lightly upon it. 
 
 PASTRY, PLAITS OF. 
 
 (3ee Plaits or Pastbt.) 
 PASTRY POWDER, OR BAKING POWDER. 
 
 Take an equal bulk, not weight, of tartaric 
 acid, carbonate of soda, and ground rice. Mix 
 thoroughly. Roll the mixture with the rolling- 
 pin to free it .from lumps, and keep it in a 
 closely-stoppered wide-mouthed bottle until 
 wanted. When m'aking common pastry, pUt a 
 tea-spoonful of the powder with every pound of 
 flour, and in making cakes allow a heaped tea- 
 spoonful to every pound of material. This 
 powder will make the pastry lighter, and render 
 it also more digestible. Time, a few minutes 
 to prepare. Probable cost. Is. per pound. 
 
 PASTRY RAMAKINS. 
 
 . Roll out evgnly and thinly a quarter of a 
 1 pound of good puff-paste. Sprinkle over it a 
 little finely-grated Parmesan, fold, roll it 
 again, and sprinkle a little more cheese upon it ; 
 then roll it out once more, stamp it into any 
 fancy shapes, and brush over with yolk of egg. 
 Put the ramakins on a buttered baking-tin, 
 and bake them in a brisk oven. Serve as hot 
 as possible. These ramakins should be served 
 with cheese. Time, about a quarter of an hour 
 to bake. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for 
 three or four persons. 
 
 PASTRY SANDWICHES. 
 
 Roll out some good puff-paste till it is as thin 
 as » wafer, and cut it into two pieces the same 
 size and shape. Lay one of these on a but- 
 tered baking-tin, and spread over it lightly some 
 fine fruit jelly. Place the other piece of 
 pastry on the top, press it lightly with the 
 fingers, mark it in squares where it is after- 
 wards to be cut, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 Sift powdered sugar over the sandwiches before 
 serving them, and arrange them on a neatly- 
 folded napkin, or cut them when cold into 
 narrow strips, pile them in a circle on a dish, 
 and pour whipped cream into the middle of 
 them. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, without the cream, 8d. Sufficient, a 
 quarter of a pound of paste will make a nice 
 supper dish. 
 PASTRY SANDWICHES (another way). 
 
 Roll out two squares, one of almond paste 
 and the other of puff-paste, to the same size 
 and thickness. Lay the puff-paste upon the 
 
PAS 
 
 508 
 
 PAT 
 
 almond paste, press them lightly with the 
 fingers, and cut them out together into shapes. 
 Brush beaten egg over them, sprinkle powdered 
 sugar upon them, and bake them in a moderate 
 oven. Time, about twenty minutes to bake. 
 Probable cost, 2d. each. 
 
 PASTY, FORCEMEAT FOR. 
 
 (See FoEOEMEiT poe. Cold Pasties.) 
 
 PASTY OF FRESH OR PRESERVED FRUIT. 
 
 A pasty is distinguished from a pie or a 
 tart, because it has pastry both under and above 
 the fruit. It may be baked either with or 
 without a plate. When no dish is used, roll the 
 pastry out thin, and stamp it into a small round 
 shape, spread the jam, or slice the fruit, upon 
 half the round, and turn the other half over it. 
 Moisten the edges with a little water, press 
 them securely together, and bake the pasties in 
 a moderate oven. Sprinkle powdered sugar 
 over before serving. Time to bake, according 
 to size. A pasty made of fresh fruit will re- 
 quire baking a little longer than one made 
 of jam. 
 
 PASTY, POTATO. 
 
 ((See Potato Pastt, Modeen.) 
 
 PATE BRISEE. 
 
 {See Cbttst, Pate Beisee). 
 
 PATE DE GIBIER, OR GAME PATE, SUPER- 
 LATIVE. 
 
 Bone four partridges, or, if they are to be 
 had, take two partridges and two grouse; 
 variety is always acceptable in game pasty. 
 Cut up a, hare, and season it as well as the 
 partridges with salt and cayenne. Put inside 
 each of the partridges a good-sized truffle and 
 a portion of forcemeat, prepared as follows. 
 Mince finely and separately, and then mix thor- 
 oughly, one pound of calf's liver, and the 
 livers of the birds and the hare, all of which 
 must be cooked apart; add three pounds of fat 
 bacon. Season this mixture with salt, cay- 
 enne, and mixed savoury herbs, pound it in a 
 mortar, and afterwards mix with it a pound and 
 a half of truffles. Make some pastry, and 
 mould it to the proper shape, according to the 
 directions already given (see Paste foe Raised 
 Pies); cover the bottom of the pie with a layer 
 of slices of fat bacon, place upon this half the 
 hare and half the forcemeat, then put in the, 
 partridges, two with their breasts upwards and 
 two with their breasts downwards, place the 
 remainder of the hare and. the forcemeat upon 
 them, and cover the whole with a good slice of 
 bacon fat and two bay-leaves. Put the lid on 
 the pie, ornament it prettily, and bake it in a 
 good oven for four hours or more. When it has 
 been drawn from the oven, and is almost cold, 
 pour into it, through a hole made in the centre 
 of the lid, a quarter of a pint of dissolved 
 gravy-jelly, which has been made by stewing 
 the bones in water and mixing the stock with a 
 little isinglass or gelatine. Probable cost, vary- 
 ing with the price of the game. Sufficient for 
 ten or twelve persons. 
 
 PAT^ OF FISH. 
 
 Boil and mash smoothly, with an ounce of 
 butter and a spoonful of milk or cream to each 
 pound, as many potatoes as will make a border 
 
 about three inches high within the rim of the 
 dish which it is intended to use ; three pounds of 
 potatoes will be sufficient for a moderate-sized 
 dish. Raise this border, ornament it in any 
 fanciful way, then brush it over with beaten 
 egg, and put it in a hot oven until it is lightly 
 browned. Have ready some hot crab, or some 
 fish stewed in sauce, and when the potatoes are 
 coloured put in the preparation, and serve very 
 hot. To prepare the fish — ^Take two pounds of 
 cold boiled fish, which has been picked care- 
 fully from the bones and broken into small 
 pieces, warm these in a pint of good white 
 sauce, nicely flavoured and seasoned; stir it 
 gently over the fire until the fish is hot, then 
 turn the whole into the hollow in the centre of 
 the potatoes. If no stock is at hand, the white 
 sauce may be made as follows. Simmer the 
 bones of the fish, with a handful of parsley, an 
 onion stuck with one clove, half a blade of 
 mace, and a pint of water, until the liquid is 
 reduced one-half; strain it, and mix with it four 
 table-spoonfulsi of thick cream, season with 
 salt and cayenne, and thicken with a Uttle flour 
 and butter. It is then ready for the fish. To 
 prepare the crab— Pick the meat from the shell, 
 mix with it the eighth of its bulk in finely- 
 grated bread-crumbs, and season with salt, 
 cayenne, and a little grated nutmeg. Pound 
 the mixture in a mortar, moisten with a little 
 gravy, which has been thickened with flour and 
 butter, add a table-spoonful of sherry, and stir 
 the preparation over the fire until it is quite 
 hot ; squeeze the juice of a small lemon over it, 
 and it is ready for use. Time to warm the fish 
 in' the sauce — until it is quite hot, without 
 boiling. Probable cost, according to the 
 nature of the fish. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 PATE OF FOIES GRAS. 
 
 (See Fore Geas.) 
 
 PATE OF MACARONI. 
 
 Put into a saucepan six ounces of the best 
 macaroni, broken into convenient pieces, with a 
 moderate-sized onion and three pints of boil- 
 ing water, seasoned with half a salt-spoonful 
 of salt and half a salt-spoonful of pepper, and 
 let them simmer gently for twenty minutes; 
 drain the macaroni well, put it back into the 
 saucepan, with half a pint of broth, and let it 
 simmer again until tender but unbroken and the 
 onion is absorbed. Place a layer of the macaroni 
 at the bottom of a deep pie-dish, sprinkle over it 
 a dessert-spoonful of grated Parmesan, and put 
 little pieces of butter here and there upon it; 
 cover it with beef steak which has been seasoned 
 rather highly, stewed until tender in good brown 
 gravy, and then cut into small thin pieces. A 
 pound of beef steak will be sufficient for this 
 quantity of macaroni. If preferred, fricasseed 
 chicken, minced veal, sweetbread cut into dice, 
 or mushrooms, may be substituted for the beef, 
 but they must all be stewed in rich gravyjbefore 
 they are put with the macaroni. Fill up the 
 dish with alternate Jayers of macaroni and 
 meat, and let the uppermost layer be composed 
 of the former; sprinkle an ounce of Parmesan 
 over the top, and pour over it half an ounce of 
 clarified butter, then put the dish into a Dutch 
 oven, before a clear fire, or into the oven, and 
 
PAT 
 
 509 
 
 PEA 
 
 when the cheese is dissolved the pate is ready 
 for serving. Time to bake, five or six minutes. 
 Probable cost, 2s., if made with steak. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 
 PATISSIERE, CREAM. 
 
 {See Cbeam Patissieee.) 
 
 PATTIES, FRIED. 
 
 Prepare some good puff-paste, and roll it 
 out to the thickness of about a quarter of an 
 inch, stamp it with a pastry-cutter into rounds 
 an inch and three-quarters in diameter, place a 
 tea-spoonful of minced meat between each pair 
 of these, moisten the edges, pinch them securely, 
 and, fry them in plenty of fat until they are 
 crisped and lightly browned. They should be 
 placed in a wire drainer, plunged into the fat 
 when it is boiling, and well drained from it 
 before they are served. The following is one 
 amongst many of the preparations which may 
 be put into the patties. Mince finely six ounces 
 of cold dressed veal, and twelve ounces of 
 boiled ham; add an egg, boiled hard and 
 chopped small, and season the mixture with 
 a little pepper, salt, powdered mace, and 
 grated lemon-rind; moisten it with a table- 
 spoonful of thick cream and one of good g^ravy. 
 It will then be ready for use. Time to fry 
 the patties, twelve to fifteen minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, 2d. each. A dozen are required for 
 a dish. 
 
 PATTIES, FRIED BREAD. 
 
 Cut three or four slices, an inch and a half 
 thick, from a stale quartern loaf. That called 
 by bakers a sandwich loaf answers excellently 
 for the purpose. Cut the slices into rounds an 
 inch and three-quarters in diameter, and make 
 a tolerably deep incision at one end, a quarter 
 of an inch from the edge, to mark the lid and 
 the part which is afterwards to be scooped out 
 for the admission of the meat. Pry the bread 
 in plenty of boiling fat or dripping until it is 
 lightly browned all over, drain it from the fat, 
 take off the top, and remove the crumb, from the 
 middle, and put in its place the prepared meat. 
 Serve on a neatly-folded napkin. Pry until the 
 patties are equally and lightly browned all over. 
 Time to fry, about twelve minutes. Probable 
 cost of cases. Id. each. Sufficient, a dozen for 
 a dish. 
 
 PATTIES, MONKS'. 
 
 Make some good puff-paste, and line as many 
 patty-moulds as are required, according to the 
 directions already given. Pare a large truffle, 
 and mince it very finely; mix with it the yolks 
 of three hard-boiled eggs cut into dice, half a 
 salt-spoonful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of pep- 
 per; and as much powdered mace as would cover 
 a threepenny-piece. Moisten the mixture with 
 a table-spoonful of thick cream. Put a small 
 portion into each patty, place the cover on 
 the top, press the edges securely, and pinch 
 them with a pincers. Bake in a tolerably 
 brisk oven. If preferred, half a dozen button 
 mushrooms, stewed in butter, and afterwards 
 chopped small, may be used instead of the 
 truffle. Time to bake, about a quarter of 
 an hour. Probable cost, 2d. each. This 
 quantity is sufficient " for three or four 
 patties. 
 
 PATTIES, PREPARATION OF. 
 
 Patties may either be baked in patty-pans or 
 without them. They are usually made with 
 puff-paste, and filled with savoury ingredients 
 of various kinds. They should be baked in a 
 brisk oven. If made in patty-pans, lightly 
 grease the pans. Make the pastry according to 
 the directions given for puff-paste, and roll it 
 out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch. 
 Line the moulds with this, fill them with flour, 
 or place a crust of bread in the middle of them, 
 put on the cover, trim the pastry even with 
 .the moulds, moisten the edges, press them to- 
 gether, and mark them with the prongs of a 
 fork, or with scissors. Bake in a moderate 
 oven. When done enough, raise the covers, 
 take out the crusts, and return the patties to the 
 oven for a minute or two to dry. Before serv- 
 ing, put the proper me^^t into the place where 
 the bread has been. When made without 
 moulds, roll out the paste as before, and cut it 
 into an equal number of rounds, an inch and 
 three-quarters in diameter. Place half of these 
 on a, buttered baking-tin, moisten the edges, 
 place a tea-spoonful of the proper forcemeat in 
 the centre of each, and cover it with another of 
 the rounds, press the edges sepurely, brush them 
 over with beaten egg, and bake in a brisk oven. 
 Patties, whether served hot or cold, should be 
 arranged on a folded napkin. Time to bake,, 
 twelve to .fifteen minutes. 
 
 PATTY-PANS. 
 
 (See illustration accompanying the article on 
 AlMOND Purps.) ' 
 
 PEACH. 
 
 The peach is alnongst the most delicious and 
 most highly-esteemed "^ ""r fruits. It differs 
 from the nectarine in beiiig covered with a soft 
 down. This fruit, both when fresh and when 
 preserved, is excellent for the table. The young 
 leaves and the kernels possess an agreeable 
 flavour, and may be used in cookery for flavour- 
 ing purposes^. When a peach is of superior 
 quality and m gbod condition the skin is thin, 
 and very lightly covered with down, the stone 
 small, the pulp firm though full of a delicious 
 juice, and the colour deep and . bright on one 
 side. (See also Nectabines and Peaches.) 
 
 PEACH CAKES (a pretty dilsh for a Juvenile party). 
 Divide carefully' the yolks from the whites of 
 four eggs; beat the yolks thoroughly, and mix 
 with them six ounces of flnely-powdered and 
 sifted loaf sugar, a s^iall pinch of salt, and a, 
 few drops of almond flavouring. Beat these in- 
 gredients thoroughly for a quarter of an hour, 
 then dredge in gradually six ounces of fine flour, 
 and afterwards the whites of the eggs,, which 
 have been whisked to a solid froth. Beat the 
 mixture five minutes longer, then drop it, in 
 small rounds of uniform size, either upon a but- 
 tered and floured baking-tin or upon a sheet of 
 thick cartridge paper; bake in a brisk oven 
 until they are lightly browned. The cakes must 
 be carefully watched or they will be too highly 
 coloured. When they are sufficiently baked, 
 spread a little peach jam u^on the under parts, 
 and stick the cakes together in two, so that 
 they will resemble as nearly as possible a peach 
 in size and shape. Cover them over very thinly 
 
PEA 
 
 510 
 
 PEA 
 
 with a little white icing, made by beating the. 
 whites of two egga to a firm froth, and then 
 mixing with them half a pound of finely-sifted 
 loaf sugar and a few drops of lemon-juice, the 
 whisking being continued until the liquid looks 
 thick, smooth, and white. Let the icing dry, 
 and, if liked, brush over one side of the cakes 
 with a little water, coloured with cochineal, to 
 make them look more like peaches. Serve the 
 cakes neatly arranged on a glass dish, with 
 whipped cream in the centre. Time to bake, 
 eight to twelve minutes. Probable cost, 28. 6d. 
 per pound. 
 
 PEACH CREAM ICE. 
 
 Divide twelve ripe peaches into halves, blanch 
 the kernels, and put them, with the fruit, into 
 a stewpan, with a syrup, made by boiling in half 
 a pint of water six ounces of loaf sugar until 
 it is dissolved. Stir the contents, of the 
 saucepan over the fire until the fruit is re- 
 duced to pulp, then press it through a hair sieve 
 into a basin. Add three-quarters of an ounce 
 of gelatine, dissolved in half a pint of water, a 
 pint of whipped cream, and three or four drops 
 of prepared cochineal. Put the cream into an 
 ice-mould that has a cover, and when it begins 
 to thicken stir it well. When it is quite thick 
 put on the cover, and spread some butter over 
 the opening, so that no water may get through it. 
 Let the ice and saltpetre be at least three inches 
 thick around the mould. When quite firm the 
 peach ice is ready for serving, but should remain 
 till wanted. Probable cost, 28. 6d. per pint, 
 with peaches 2d. each. Sufficient for nearly 
 three pints of ice. 
 
 PEACH CREAM ICE (another way). 
 
 Boil a dozen ripe peaches in syrup, and rub 
 them through a sieve, as directed in the last 
 recipe. Mix with the pulp a custard, made of 
 half a pint of milk, the yolks of six eggs, and 
 three ounces of sugar. Add two or three drops 
 of cochineal to impart a pink tinge to the pre- 
 paration, and freeze as directed in the preceding 
 recipe. It may remain in the ice till wanted. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. per pint, with peaches 
 2d. each. Sufficient for a quart of ice. 
 
 PEACH CREAMS. 
 
 Eub the contents of a tin of peaches through 
 a sieve, then add a quarter of an ounce of gela- 
 tine that has been melted and heated in a little 
 of the peach syrup, the juice of a quarter of a 
 lemon, and three ounces of castor sugar. 
 Whip half a pint of cream, add this to the other 
 ingredients with three drops of cochineal; stir 
 till it commences to set, then decorate a mould 
 with chopped cherries, angelica, or candied fruit 
 cut into small pieces; put in the mixture, and 
 when quite cold turn out carefully ; garnish with 
 little heaps of whipped cream, some pink and 
 the others white. 
 
 PEACHES, BOTTLED. 
 
 Pare, halve, and stone the peaches. Place the 
 halves in perfectly dry wide-mouthed bottles, 
 and cover them entirely with a thick syrup, 
 made by boiling a pound of loaf sugar in three- 
 quarters of a pint of water until the sugar is 
 dissolved. Wrap a wisp of hay round them to 
 prevent their knocking against each other, and 
 place them side by side in a deep stewpan, with 
 
 cold water up to their necks. Bring the water 
 to boiling point, and let the peaches boil gently 
 for a quarter of an hour, then lift the saucepan 
 from the fire, and do not Temove the bottles 
 until the water is almost cold. Cork the bottles 
 and seal the corks, and store in a cool dry place. 
 Probable cost of peaches, 2d. to 6d. each. 
 
 PEACHES, BRANDIED. 
 
 Stew some very fine, ripe, well-flavoured 
 peaches in a syrup of seven ounces of sugar to 
 half a pint of water, turning them often. When 
 tender, put them, with the syrup, into new jars 
 or wide-mouthed glass bottles, leaving space on 
 the top for brandy, which should be poured in 
 when the fruit is quite cold. A few peach or 
 apricot kernels may be blanched and added be- 
 fore the bottles are corked. Average cost of 
 peaches, 3s. per dozen. (See also Peaches Pee- 
 
 SEEVED IN BbANDT.) 
 
 PEACHES, COMPOTE OF. 
 
 Divide six or eight ripe peaches into halves. 
 Make a syrup by boiling six ounces of loaf 
 sugar in half a pint of water for eight minutes. 
 Put in the fruit, and let it simmer gently for 
 five minutes. Drain the peaches from the 
 syrup, .take off their skins, and put them into a 
 compote dish. Add to the syrup a dessert- 
 spoonful of lemon-juice, or, if procurable, two 
 table-spoonfuls of red currant juice. When 
 lemon-]uice is used, two or three drops of 
 cochineal should also be added, to colour the 
 syrup slightly. Let it boil three or four min- 
 utes longer, then pour it over the peaches. 
 Blanch three or four of the kernels, split them 
 in four, and place a quarter here and there upon 
 the fruit. Serve either hot or cold. Time, 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost of peaches, 
 2d. to 6d. each. Sufficient for six or eight 
 persons. 
 
 PEACHES, COMPOTE OF (another way). 
 
 Pare, halve, and stone half a dozen ripfe 
 peaches, and simmer, until they are soft enough 
 to be pierced by a needle, in a syrup, made by 
 boiling a quarter of a pound of sugar in half a 
 pint of water for a quarter of an hour. When 
 done enough, put them into a, dish, and pour 
 half the syrup over them. Throw into the other 
 half of the syrup two pounds of ripe peaches, 
 which have been pared, cored, and sliced; add 
 four ounces of sugar and a, table-spoonful of 
 strained lemon-juice, and simmer the fruit, stir- 
 ring it constantly, until it is reduced to a firm,, 
 smooth, dry pulp. Spread half of this in a 
 smooth layer at the bottom of a glass dish, pil& 
 the stewed peaches in the centre, fill the spaces 
 between them with the remainder of the mar- 
 malade ; then reduce until it is quite thick the 
 half of the syrup which was first taken out, and. 
 pour it upon the fruit. Garnish the dish with 
 macaroons, blanch and slice the kernels, and 
 strew them equally over the surface. Time to 
 prepare, one hour or more. Probable cost, 3b. 
 or 4s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 PEACHES, FLANC OF; OR PEACHES IN A 
 RAISED CRUST. 
 
 Make three-quarters of a pound of good short; 
 crust, and roll it out until it is half an inch 
 thick. Butter well the inside of a mould, and 
 
PEA 
 
 511 
 
 PEA 
 
 line it with the crust, pressing the dougli so that 
 it may take the form of the mould. Pinch the 
 part that rises above the mould with the pincers, 
 fill the case with flour, and bake in a nioderate" 
 oven. When the crust is firm, remove the floiir, 
 carefully take the case out of the mould, and put 
 it into the oven a few minutes longer to dry. 
 Divide a dozen peaches into halves, boil them 
 until tender in a syrup made of six ounces of 
 loaf sugar and half a pint of water. When they 
 are sufficiently cooked, lift them out one by one, 
 and put them into the case. Boil the syrup a 
 few minutes longer, add a table-spoonful of 
 lemon-juice, colour with a little cochineal, let 
 it cool, then pour it over the fruit. A few of 
 the kernels, blanched and quartered, may be 
 introduced, if liked. Time, about one hour to 
 bake the flanc; twenty minutes to prepare the 
 fruit. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. 
 
 PEACHES, PICKLED. 
 
 Take a dozen sound peaches which have been 
 gathered before they are fully ripe. Eub them 
 well with a soft cloth, and put them into a pan. 
 Make a brine by boiling a pound of salt in three 
 quarts of water for one minute. Skim the 
 liquid carefully, pour it, when cold, over the 
 peaches, put a thin board on the top to keep 
 them under the water, and let them remain for 
 three days. At the end of that time lift them 
 out carefully, put them into a large earthen- 
 ware jar, and pour over them a pickle prepared 
 as follows. Boil half a gallon of vinegar with a 
 quarter of a pound of bruised ginger, a dessert- 
 spoonful of salt, three large blades of mace, one 
 pound of mustard, a quarter of a pound of 
 whole pepper, and a tea-spoonful of cayenne tied 
 in muslin. Skim the liquid carefully, and pour 
 it, when boiling, upon the peaches. Cover the 
 jar with a bladder, and store in a cool dry place. 
 The pickled peaches will be ready for use in nine 
 or ten weeks. If it is wished to pickle the 
 peaches as an imitation of pickled mangoes, take 
 each peach singly, after it has been drained 
 from the brine, and cut out of the stalk end a 
 round piece, an inch in diameter, draw out the 
 stone, and put in its place a little fresh mustard- 
 seed which has been washed in vinegar and ' 
 flavoured with a finely-minced shallot and a 
 pinch of cayenne. Put the piece back again, 
 and secure it in its place with strong thread; 
 then proceed according to the directions given 
 above. Time, ten minutes to boil the vinegar 
 with the spices. Probable cost of peaches, 2d. 
 to 6d. each. 
 
 PEACHES PRESERVED IN BRANDY. 
 
 Gather the peaches when they are perfectly 
 sound, but fully ripe. Make as much syrup as 
 will cover them, boiling ten ounces of loaf sugar 
 with every three-quarters of a pint of water until 
 the sugar is dissolved. Pare the peaches, put 
 them into the syrup, and simmer gently until 
 they are so tender that a needle can be easily 
 passed through them. As they reach this con- 
 dition, lift them out one by one with a skimmer, 
 and put them carefully into the jar intended for 
 them, which they must only half fill. Pour the 
 syrup over them, and to within two inches of the 
 top, add a few of the blanched kernels, and 
 when the syrup is cold fill up the jar. with 
 
 brandy. Cork closely, and cover the corks with 
 bladder. It is well to examine the jars occasion- 
 ally, and as the fruit absorbs the brandy to add 
 more. If it should happen that the peaches are 
 not quite ripe, pour boiling water over them, 
 and keep them near the fire until the skin can be 
 easily drawn off. Probable cost of peaches, 2d. 
 to 6d. each. 
 
 PEACHES PRESERVED IN BRANDY (another way)'. 
 Put the peaches into cold water, and simmer 
 them very gently until they begin to soften. 
 Lift them out carefully one by one, drain them, 
 and when they are cold put them into glass jars. 
 Crush a pound and a half of white sugar-candy 
 to powder. Dissolve it in a pint of brandy, and 
 fill up the glasses with the syrup. Cork and seal 
 the jars, and store in a cool dry place. Examine 
 the jars occasionally, and as the fruit absorbs 
 the brandy add a little more. Probable cost of 
 peaches, 2d. to 6d. e_jich. 
 
 PEACHES PRESERVED WHOLE. 
 
 This preserve is best made in the early part 
 of October. Gather the peaches before they are- 
 fully ripe, wipe the down from them, put them 
 into a deep pan, pour boiling water over them, 
 cover them over, and let them remain near the 
 fire, though not upon it, for an hour; then take.; 
 out the peaches, put them in a bowl of cold 
 water, and in, a quarter of an hour take off the 
 skins, push out the stones, and weigh the fruit. 
 Take an equal weight of loaf sugar, dip each 
 lump separately into water, put it into a pre- 
 serving-pan, and then boil the moistened sugar 
 gently until you have a clear syrup. Put the 
 peaches in carefully with the blanched kernels, 
 let them simmer for six minutes, then lift them 
 out with a skimmer, put them into a deep dish, 
 and pour the boiling syrup over them. The next- 
 day drain the syrup from them, let it boil for 
 four minutes, and pour it again over the fruit: 
 repeat this process every day for a week. Om 
 the eighth day boil up the syrup as usual, and 
 put the peaches into it. Let them boil quickly 
 for eight or ten minutes, but do not allow them 
 to break; lift them out carefully one by one, 
 put them into jars, place an equal portion of 
 the kernels in each jar, and fill it up with the. 
 syrup. In two or three hours tie down securely 
 with paper brushed over with the white of an . 
 Bgg, and store in a cool dry place. Probable, 
 cost of peaches, 2d. to 6d. each. ' 
 
 PEACHES PRESERVED WHOLE (another way). 
 
 Wipe off the bloom from some peaches which, 
 are perfectly sound and not over-ripe, and put 
 them into a deep jar; pour boiling water over 
 them, throw a cloth over the bowl to keep in the 
 steam, and let them remain until the water is 
 nearly cold. Lift them carefully out of the 
 water, drain, and peel them. Place a single 
 layer of the fruit at the bottom of a deep 
 earthenware jar, cover the peaches thickly with 
 finely-powdered and sifted sugar, and place 
 another layer of fruit and sugar upon the top 
 of the last ; repeat until the jar is full, being ' 
 careful that the sugar is strewn very thickly 
 over the fruit, and that the topmost layer is- 
 composed of sugar. Close the jar immediately, 
 and fasten it securely, either with a large cork 
 and resin, or with bladder, and keep the fruit ia. 
 
PEA 
 
 S12 
 
 P£A 
 
 a darkj cool, dry place. Time, an hour to soak 
 the peaches. Probable cost of peaches, 2d. to 
 6d. each. 
 
 PEACHES, VOL-AU-VENT OF. 
 
 Take as much fine puff-paste as is required for 
 the size of a vol-au-vent. It should be the 
 exact size and shape of the inside of the dish on 
 which it is intended to be served. Roll it out 
 to the thickness of an inch and a quarter, and 
 stamp the cover on the top according to the 
 directions given for a vol-au-vent. (See Vol-au- 
 vent.) Bake in a brisk oven. If the pastry has 
 been properly made it will rise in the oven until 
 it is about five inches in height ; when it has 
 done so, and is lightly coloured, take it out, 
 remove the lid, and scoop out .the inside. Have 
 as many peaches as will be required to fill the 
 empty space, already cut into halves and, stewed 
 in syrup until they are tender, but unbroken. 
 Put them into the vol-au-vent, boil the syrup 
 quickly for a few minutes until it is very thick, 
 pour it upon the peaches, and serve the vol-au- 
 vent on a neatly-folded napkin. Time to bake a 
 moderate-sized vol-au-vent — say one made with 
 three-quarters of a pound of puff-paste — about 
 twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, 2s. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 
 PEACH FOAM ([nvalid Cookery). 
 
 Peel and cut into small pieces three or four 
 ■very ripe peaches. "Put them into a basin, with 
 four ounces of powdered sugar and the white of 
 ail egg. Beat this with a fork for half an hour, 
 \vhen it will be a thick, perfectly smooth, vel- 
 vety cream, with a delightful peach flavour. 
 
 PEACH FRITTERS. 
 
 Make a smooth batter as follows. Mix four 
 ounces of fine flour and a small pinch of salt 
 wdth two table-spoonfuls of oil, or one ounce of 
 dissolved butter, and the well-beaten yolks of 
 two eggs. Add very gradually one gill of tepid 
 water, and beat the mixture with the back of a 
 wooden spoon until it is smooth and thick. Put 
 it aside for an hour or two, and twenty minutes 
 before it is used add the whites of the eggs, 
 which have been beaten to a firm froth. Skin, 
 halve, and stone a dozen ripe peaches, dip them 
 into the batter, and fry in boiling fat until they 
 are crisp and lightly coloured. Drain them well, 
 and serve piled on a dish, with a little whipped 
 ■ cream round them. If preferred, the cream may 
 he omitted, and the fritters served on a napkin, 
 with powdered sugar strewn thickly over 
 them. Time to fry the fritters, eight or ten 
 minutes; to drain them, five minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, 2a. 6d. Sufficient for eight or ten 
 persons. 
 
 PEACH JAM OR MARMALADE. 
 
 Take the peaches when quite ripe; skin, 
 stone, and divide them into quarters, put these 
 into a preserving-pan, and stir the fruit over the 
 fire until it is quite soft. Eub the pulp through 
 a coarse sieve, beat it well until no lumps re- 
 main, weigh it, and mix with it an equal weight 
 of powdered loaf sugar and a fourth part of the 
 kernels, blanched and bruised. Boil the mix- 
 ture for a quarter of an hour, stirring and skim- 
 ming constantly. Pour the jam into jars, cover 
 these in the usual way, and store in a cool, dry 
 place. Time, about half an hour to reduce the 
 
 peaches to pulp; a quarter of an hour to boil 
 them with the sugar. Probable cost, uncertain. • 
 
 PEACH JELLY. 
 
 Peel, divide, and stone a dozen ripe peaches, 
 and boil them and the bruised kernels for a 
 quarter of an hour, in a thin syrup, made of ten 
 ounces of sugar and half a pint of water. 
 Flavour the syrup with the grated rind and 
 strained juice of four lemons, strain it through 
 a jelly-bag, and add to it an ounce of dissolved 
 isinglass or gelatine. Pour it into a mould, 
 which should be set- upon ice until the jelly is 
 sufficiently stiff to turn out. The fruit from 
 which this jelly is made may be served as a 
 compote, with a little red currant-juice added 
 to the syrup. Time, a quarter of an hour to 
 simmer the fruit. Probable cost, 2s. a pint. 
 Sufficient for a quart mould. 
 
 PEACH PIE. 
 
 Peel, stone, and slice some peaches. Line a 
 shallow pie-dish with a good short crust, and 
 fill it with the sliced fruit. Sprinkle with 
 sugar. Crack one or two of the peach stones, 
 and place the kernels among the peaches. Cut 
 some of the paste into strips, and place these 
 crosswise over the peaches. Bake for forty min- 
 utes in a quick oven. Serve with cream. 
 
 PEACH PUDDING. 
 
 Dissolve half an ounce of gelatine in a little 
 warm water. Whip a pint of cream stiffly, and 
 add two table-spoonfuls of castor sugar. Chop 
 half a tin of peaches into small pieces. Mix all 
 together, and pour into a wet mould. Place on 
 ice to harden, and turn out when required. 
 
 PEACH WATER ICE. 
 
 Pare, stone, and quarter half a dozen ripe 
 peaches; put them in a syrup, made by boiling 
 for five minutes a pound of loaf sugar, with a 
 pint of water, the white of an egg beaten to a, 
 firm froth, and one peach kernel. Let the peaches 
 simmer until they are quite soft. Press them 
 through a fine hair-sieve, and add to the liquid 
 the strained juice of two small fresh lemons and 
 two or three drops of cochineal. Freeze in the 
 usual way. Time to boil the peaches, varying 
 with the quality. Probable cost. Is. 8d. with 
 peaches at 2d. each. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 PEACOCK. 
 
 This beautiful and majestic bird has been in- 
 troduced on the table both by the ancients and 
 the moderns, but chiefly as a showy and orna- 
 mental dish, the bird being preserved in some of 
 its handsome plumage. The flesh is coarse and 
 ill-coloured. " Kill a peacock," says Bapista 
 Porta, an old-time chef, "by thrusting a quill 
 into his brain, or else cut his throat as you do 
 for young kids, that the blood may come forth ; 
 then cut his skin gently from the throat to his 
 tail, and, being cut, pull it off with his feathers 
 from his whole body to his head ; cut that off 
 with the skin and legs, and keep it. Boast the 
 peacock on a spit, his body being stuffed with 
 spices and sweet herbs, first , sticking cloves in 
 his breast, and wrapping his neck in white cloth. 
 When the peacock is roasted, and taken from the 
 spit, put him into his own skin again, and that 
 he may appear to stand on his feet, you shall 
 
PEA 
 
 513 
 
 PEA 
 
 thrust small iron wires through his legs, and' 
 set fast on board that they may not be discerned, 
 and through his body to his head and tail. Some 
 put camphire in his mouth, and when he is set 
 on the table they cast in fire." 
 
 PEAFOWL. 
 
 The peafowl is generally to be had during the 
 first six months of the year, and when young and 
 well kept it tastes not unlike pheasant. It re- 
 quires to be larded on the breast and legs, as 
 the flesh is rather dry. When the cock is served, 
 some of the feathers of the tail should be pre- 
 served and stuck into the bird before it is sent 
 to table, and when this is neatly done it presents 
 an excellent appearance. The hen is, however, 
 much more freauently served than the cock. 
 
 PEAFOWL, LARDED AND ROASTED. 
 
 iChoose a young bird, lard it closely over the 
 breast and legs, fill it with a good veal force- 
 meat — but the forcemeat may be omitted — truss 
 it firmly, and roast before a clear fire for an 
 hour or an hour and a half, according to the 
 size of the bird. When done enough, take off 
 the buttered paper which was rolind the head 
 {see Pbapowl, Trussed), trim the feathers, glaze 
 the larding, and serve the bird on a hot dish, 
 with a little clear brown gravy under it. Garnish 
 the dish with water-cress, and send bread' 
 sauce to table in a tureen. Probable cost, un- 
 certain. Sufftcient for five or six persons. 
 
 PEAFOWL, TRUSSED. 
 
 Peafowls should be trussed in the same way as 
 pheasants, excepting that the head should be 
 left attached to the skin of the breast un- 
 plucked. It should be carefully covered with 
 buttered paper, and fastened under the wing. 
 When the bird is sufiiciently cooked, and before 
 it is dished, the paper should be removed and 
 the plumage trimmed. 
 
 PEAR. 
 
 "The pear is very wholesome when ripe, but is 
 not so when green. It is then, however, fit for 
 stewing. The best pears for baking purposes 
 are rather acid than sweet; by cooking, part 
 of the acid is changed into sugar. Pears may 
 be preserved in the same way as apples ; they 
 are also pared and dried in an oven, and when 
 treated in this way they will keep for years. 
 This method of preservation is much followed 
 in France. . Several hundred kinds of pears are 
 cultivated in the orchards of Europe. 
 
 PEAR AND PLUM JAM, WITHOUT ,SUGAR. 
 
 {See Pltim and Peae Jam.) 
 
 PEAR CHARLOTTE. 
 
 Peel and core a dozen Bon Chretien pears, cut 
 them into quarters, dip them into finely- 
 powdered sugar, and shake them over the fire in 
 a little clarified butter until they are tender; 
 then drain them well. Cut three or four slices 
 of crumb of bread, the third of an inch thick. 
 Line a- plain round mould with these, first out- 
 ting out a small round for the bottom, and then 
 cutting the rest into fingers, which must be 
 placed round' the mould overlapping each other. 
 Dip •■the bread into clarified butter before put- 
 ting it into the mould. Fill the mould with 
 the cooked pears, cover the top with slices of 
 33 
 
 bread dipped in butter, and place the dish in a 
 brisk oven until the bread is lightly browned. 
 If the oven be not sufficiently brisk the bread 
 will not colour properly, nor will the charlotte 
 preserve its form. Turn the charlotte out of 
 the mould, and brush it over with apricot jam, 
 or sift powdered sugar thickly over it. Time to 
 bake, from three-quarters of an hour to an hour. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for six or eight 
 persona. 
 
 PEAR FRITTERS. 
 
 Take out the cores then peel and cut some ripe 
 pears into halves, and dip them into a rich batter 
 to which a little cream has been added; fry in 
 boiling fat for three or four minutes, then drain. 
 Arrange neatly on a dish, sift castor sugar over, 
 and garnish with angelica. Probable cost, 6d. 
 to 8d. per pound. 
 
 PEAR JAM. 
 
 Pare, core, and quarter six pounds of ripe 
 mellow pears, put them into a jar, cover closely, 
 and place the jar in a saucepan of boiling water, 
 which must be kept boiling until the pears are 
 quite soft. Turn them into a preserving-pan, 
 and mix with theni a quart of syrup, made m the 
 proportion of a pound and a half of loaf sugar 
 to each half a pint of water. Mix the fruit and 
 the syrup thoroughly, and stir the jam over the 
 fire for twenty minutes. Turn it into jars, cover 
 in the usual way, and store in a cool dry place. 
 Probable cost, 8d. per pound. 
 
 PEAR MARMALADE. 
 
 Weigh, pare, halve, and core as many ripe 
 mellow pears as it is. desired to use. Put them 
 into a preserving-pan, barely cover them with 
 cold water, and simmer gently until they Ure 
 tender. Lift them out of the water, and boil the 
 liquid for an hour with the skins and cores of the 
 pears. Strain it, make a syrup of it by boiling 
 a pound and a half of sugar and a quart of 
 liquid for every two pounds of fruit, and let this 
 syrup boil until it will stiffen," when a small 
 quantity is poured upon a plate. Stir the pears 
 into the syrup, and boil all together for a few 
 minutes. Turn the marmalade into jars, cover 
 in the usual way, and store in a cool, dry place. 
 Time, boil the pears until tender; one hour to 
 stew the skins, etc. ; boil the syrup until it 
 jellies. Probable cost, 9d. per pound. 
 
 PEARS, BAKED. 
 
 Rub half a dozen large hard pears with a soft 
 cloth. Put them on a buttered baking-tin into 
 a slow oven, and let them bake gently for five or 
 six hours. When tender they are done enough, 
 and will be found excellent if eaten with sugar. 
 Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 PEARS, BAKED (another way). 
 
 Pare very smoothly and take out the cores of a 
 dozen large baking pears. Cut them into halves", 
 and put the pears side by side into a well-bright- 
 ened block-tin saucepan with a closely-fitting 
 Cover. Pour over them as much cold water as 
 will cover them, add the thin rind of a small 
 lemon, a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice, 
 an inch of stick cinnamon, and a few' grains of 
 allspice. Put on the cover, place the dish in a 
 gentle oven, and let it remain there iintil the 
 
PEA 
 
 514 
 
 PEA 
 
 pears are tender. A little white wine may be 
 added, if liked. If a saucepan such as is described 
 is used, no cochineal will be required for the 
 syrup. Time to bake, six hours. Probable cost. 
 Is. 8d to 2s. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. 
 
 PEARS, COMPOTE OF. 
 
 When ripe, juicy pears are used for making 
 compotes they should be stewed whole, but when 
 hard baking pears only are to be had it is best 
 to cut them into halves or quarters, reserving 
 only one large piece to put in the centre. Peel 
 the pears, and put them into the syrup. The 
 proportion of sugar to be used will depend upon 
 
 1, Louise Bonne. 
 
 2, Marie Louise. 
 St. Germain. 
 
 3, Uvedale's 
 
 the quality of the pears. Put with them a few 
 drops of prepared cochineal, and either a strip of 
 lemon-rind, a quarter of a stick of vanilla, or a 
 few cloves. Simmer very gently until they are 
 quite tender without being broken, then drain 
 tiiem well, put them on a dish, boil the syrup 
 quickly until it is thick : when it is cold, and 
 just before the compote is to be served, strain, 
 and pour the syrup over the fruit. The pears 
 are to be boiled until tender. Probable cost. 
 Is. 4d. for a dish. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 PEARS, ESSENCE OF JARGONELLE. 
 
 The article sold under this name is the acetate 
 of the oxide of amyl, mixed with spirits of wine. 
 It very closely resembles the natural flavour of 
 pears. 
 
 PEARS, FROSTED OR ICED. 
 
 Take half a dozen large pears, which have 
 been stewed whole in syrup. Dry them well, 
 then cover them smoothly and evenly with a 
 white icing made as follows. Beat the white of 
 an egg to a firm froth, add a quarter of a pound 
 of powdered and sifted sugar, a table-spoonful 
 of lemon-juice, and a few drops of cold water, 
 and beat the mixture thoroughly until it forms 
 a very thick smooth liquid. When the pears are 
 covered, set them in a warm place, or in a cool 
 oven, to stiffen the icing. Probable cost, 2d. 
 each. Sufficient for a dessert-dish. 
 
 PEARS IN JELLY (a pretty dish for a Juvenlte party). 
 Peel six or eight large pears, cut them into 
 halves, take out the cores, and throw the fruit as 
 they are done into cold water to keep them from 
 becoming discoloured. Put them into a saucepau 
 with as much syrup as will cover them, and let 
 them stew gently until they are tender, but un- 
 broken. The quantity of sugar to be put into 
 the syrup will depend iipon the quality of the 
 pears, as some are naturally much sweeter than 
 others. When sufficiently cooked, drain the pears 
 from the syrup, brush them over with the beaten 
 yolk of an egg, sprinkle powdered and sifted 
 sugar thickly over them, and arrange them on a 
 glass dish. Supposing there is a pint and a half 
 of syi'up, dissolve in it an ounce of gelatine 
 which has been soaked in as much cold water as 
 will cover it, for one hour. Let it boil quickly 
 for five or six minutes, colour with two or three 
 drops of cochineal, and strain it through a 
 jelly-bag over the pears. Put the dish into a 
 cool place, and when the jelly is quite stiff it is 
 ready for serving. Time, about one hour to 
 stew the pears. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 PEARS, JARGONELLE. 
 
 (Ste, jAKGONELiiE Pears.) 
 
 PEARS, JARGONELLE, PRESERVED. 
 
 Gather the pears before they are soft, weigh 
 them, and pare them as thinly as possible. As 
 the fruit is likely to keep longer if the seeds are 
 removed, scoop the-e out from the end with a 
 fruit-knife, or with a bodkin. Place the pears 
 in a preserving-pan, cover them with a thin 
 syrup made with half a pound of sugar to each 
 pint of water, and let them simmer gently until 
 they are sufficiently tender to be pierced easily 
 with a needle, but they must not be allowed to 
 break. Turn them into a bowl, pour the syrup 
 over them, and leave them to soak for two days. 
 Drain off the syrup, and add to it a further 
 quantity of sugar — so that there will be the same 
 weight of sugar that there was of fruit in the 
 first instance — together with half an ounce of 
 whole ginger and the juice and thinly-paredrind 
 of a lemon to each quart of syrup. Boil for ten 
 minutes, and skim carefully. Put in the pears, 
 and let them simmer gently until they look clear. 
 When they are done enough they may either be 
 drained from the syrup, and dried in the sun or 
 in -a, gentle oven, or they may be kept in the 
 syrup, and dried or not as they are wanted. 
 Probable cost of pears, 2d. each. 
 
 PEARS, MERINGUE OF. 
 
 Pare, core, and halve a dozen pears, and stew 
 them in syrup until they are sufficiently tender 
 to be pierced easily with a needle; put them 
 into a deep tart-dish which they will alnjost fill, 
 and boil the syrup quickly until it is so much 
 reduced that, when poured over the pears, it 
 will only half cover them. Whisk the whites of 
 four eggs to a solid froth. Stir into them four 
 table-spoonfuls of powdered and sifted sugar, 
 and spread the mixture evenly qnd smoothly 
 over the fruit; put it at once into a moderate 
 oven, and bake until the crust is lightly coloured 
 and crisp even in the middle. Time to bake, 
 half an hour. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for 
 four or six persons.. 
 
PEA 
 
 S15 
 
 PEA 
 
 PEAR SOUP. 
 
 Pare, core, and slice six or eight large pears. 
 Put them into a stewpan with a penny roll cut 
 into thin slices, half a dozen cloves, and three 
 pints of water. Let them simmer until they 
 are quite tender, then press them through a 
 coarse sieve, and return the puree to the sauce- 
 pan, with two ounces of sugar, the strained juice 
 of a fresh lemon, and half a tumblerful of light 
 wine. Let the soup boil for about ten minutes, 
 when it will be ready for serving. Send small 
 spongecakes to table with this dish. Time, about 
 one hour and a half to stew the pears. Prob- 
 able cost, Is. Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 PEARS, PICKLED. 
 
 Put three quarts of good vinegar into a tin 
 saucepan witli a dessert-spoonful of salt, twelve 
 onions, and two dozen large baking pears which 
 have been well rubbed with a soft cloth, but not 
 pared. Simmer gently until the pears are 
 tender without being broken, then take them 
 out, and when they are cold pare and core them, 
 and divide each one into six or eight pieces. 
 When the onions also are soft take them out, 
 and rub them through a fine hair sieve. Put 
 into the vinegar a dessert-spoonful of pepper- 
 corns, a small tea-spoonful of cloves, a small 
 tea-spoonful of allspice, six blades of mace, two 
 ounces of whole ginger, three dessert-spoonfuls 
 of turmeric, two cloves of garlic; if liked, a 
 dessert-spoonful of mustard-seed and a dessert- 
 spoonful of coriander-seed may also be added. 
 Let these ingredients boil for ten minutes, then 
 stir in the mashed onion, and boil ten minutes 
 longer. Ptit the pears into jars, and pour the 
 seasoned vinegar over them. Divide the spices 
 equally amongst the jars, and place them at thcf 
 top of the pears. Tie the jars down with 
 bladder, and store in a cool dry place. Time, 
 about one hour and a half to stew the pears. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for a gallon of 
 pickle. 
 
 PEARS, PRESERVED. 
 
 Gather the pears before they are quite ripe, 
 pare, halve, core, and weigh them, and put them 
 into a deep jar, allowing three pounds of sugar 
 to every four pounds of pears, and just enough 
 water to moisten the sugar and keep the fruit 
 from burning. The strained juice and thinly- 
 pared rind of a lemon and an inch of whole 
 ginger may be put with every two pounds of 
 pears. Place the jar in a saucepan of boiling 
 water, and let the fruit steam gently for six or 
 seven hours. Turn it into jars, fasten these 
 down securely, and store in a cool dry place. 
 Two or three drops of cochineal may be added to 
 the pears after they are cooked, to improve the 
 appearance. It must not be expected that pears 
 preserved as above will keep good more than 
 three or four months. Probable cost, 8d. per 
 pound. 
 
 PEARS, PRESERVED, RED. 
 
 If when preserving pears it is wished to im- 
 part a deep pink tinge to the fruit, add three or 
 four drops of cochineal to the syrup, or a small 
 proportion of red currant or red gooseberry-juice. 
 
 PEARS, STEWED. 
 
 Pare, core, and halve eight or ten good-sized 
 pears, leaving the stalks or not, according to 
 
 taste; put them into a tinned saucepan, with 
 six ounces, of loaf sugar, six cloves, six whole 
 allspice, three-quarters of a pint of water, and a 
 glassful of port, and let them boil as gently as 
 possible until they are quite soft without being 
 broken. Lift them out, put them on a glass 
 dish, and when the syrup is cold strain it over 
 them. A little Devonshire cream, or, failing 
 this, a little custard, is a great improvement to 
 this dish. Time to stew the pears, from two 
 hours and a half to three hours. Probable cost. 
 Is. 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 PEARS STEWED IN BUTTER. 
 
 Take half a dozen large baking pears, pare and 
 core without breaking them, and fill the cavity 
 in each with a clove crushed to powder, a little 
 moist sugar, and a small lump of butter. Put 
 them into a stewpan with the stalk ends upper- 
 most, and pour over them three ounces of clari- 
 fied butter ; cover the saucepan closely, and let 
 them stew gently until they are quite soft with- 
 out being broken, then lift them out carefully, 
 fill the hollows with red currant jelly, and 
 arrange the pears on a dish, with the narrow 
 parts meeting in the centre. Pile half a dozen 
 macaroons which have been soaked in sherry, in 
 the centre of the fruit, round which pour the 
 syrup and serve. Time to stew the pears, about 
 one hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the sherry. 
 Is. 2d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 PEARS STEWED IN VINEGAR (for Dessert). 
 
 Pare smoothly two pounds of small • winter 
 pears, cut them in halves, and take out the 
 pores. Boil a pint of vinegar, twelve cloves, 
 twelve ounces of sugar, and a stick of cinnamon 
 for ten minutes. Put the pears into the syrup, 
 and let them simmer very gently until they are 
 sufficiently tender to be pierced easily with a 
 pin. Take them out carefully, drain them, and 
 put them into jars. Boil the syrup quickly until 
 it is quite thick, and when it is cold pour it over 
 the fruit, which must be covered with it. Tie 
 down the jars with bladder, and store in a cool 
 dry place. Time to stew the pears, until tender ; 
 the time will vary with the quality of the pears. 
 Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 
 PEARS, STEWED, TO COLOUR. 
 
 This may be done in several ways. Port wine 
 and a few drops of liquid cochineal will impart 
 a bright red colour. Or some fine white candied 
 sugar dissolved in a wine-glassful of port wine 
 may be added to a moderate-sized dish of pears. 
 Or pears may be stewed in a block-tin vessel, 
 which will give a fine red. 
 
 PEARS, THE PIPS OF. 
 
 (See Apples and Peabs, The Pips op.) 
 
 PEARS, WITH RICE. 
 
 Wash six ounces of best Carolina rice in two 
 or three waters, put it into a saucepan with a 
 quart of milk, some white sugar, and a quarter 
 of a stick of vanilla, and let it simmer gently fot 
 an hour. Turn it upon a hot dish, and lay upon 
 it four or five good baking pears which have 
 been cored, halved, and stewed until quite tender 
 with three pints of water, four ounces of sugar, 
 and a quarter of a stick of vanilla. Boil the 
 syrup in which the pears were stewed very 
 quickly for a few minutes to thicken it, and pour 
 
PEA^ 
 
 516 
 
 peA 
 
 it over the rice. Serve either hot or cold. Time, 
 one hour and a half or more to stew the pears. 
 Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 PEAR TART. 
 
 If mellow pears are used they will not require 
 to be stewed before the pastry is put over them, 
 but if the ordinary baking pears are made use of 
 they must be prepared as follows. Take six or 
 eight large pears, peel them thinly, core and 
 quarter them, and ptit them into a stewpan with 
 a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, two cloves, 
 a dessert-spoonful of strained lemon-juice, and a 
 quarter of a pint of water. Let them simmer 
 gently for three-quarters of an hour, then turn 
 them into the dish prepared for them. When 
 the fruit is cold, moisten the edge of the dish 
 and line it with pastry, wet the band, put the 
 cover on, press it down all'round with the finger 
 and thumb, trim the edge, and mark it with the 
 back of a knife. Ornament the top by placing 
 on it leaves or flowers stamped out with the 
 pastry-cutter. Bake in a good oven. About ten 
 minutes before the tart is done enough, draw it 
 out, sprinkle over it white of egg mixed witli a 
 little cold water, sift powdered sugar thickly 
 over it, and put it back in the oven to finish 
 baking. Time to bake, about three-quarters of 
 an hour. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 
 PEAS. 
 
 The pea has been cultivated as a culinary 
 vegetable from a very early period. The Greeks 
 prized it highly, and grew it extensively. It is 
 uncertain when it was first cultivated in Britain. 
 Long after its • introduction it was rare, and in 
 the time of Elizabeth we 'find it imported from 
 Holland, most .likely in a ripe state. Either as 
 a horticultural or as an agricultural product the 
 pea is of great importance. ■ In a green state the 
 seeds are held to be one of cur most esteemed 
 vegetables, when boiled ; when ripe they are 
 much used in forming a favourite and nutritious 
 soup. Though a great many varieties of peas 
 have been produced by cultivation, yet they may 
 all be ranged under one or other of two divisions 
 — white, or yellow, and grey peas. Of the former 
 the choicest kinds are grown in gardens to be 
 eaten green, but vast quantities are also culti- 
 vated in the fields, and allowed to ripen for 
 drying. Grey peas are coarse in fiavour, and 
 are used solely as food for horses and cattle. 
 Peas aj e sown in the garden at different periods 
 so that they may be fit for gathering in succes- 
 sion. They are usually divided into early and 
 late peas; the former, which constitute one of- 
 the great luxuries of the beginning of summer, 
 are often forced on hot-beds. The peas, how- 
 ever, which are best in quality are those which 
 have been brought to maturity by the natural 
 heat of summer. 
 
 PEAS (ii la Fran^aise). ' 
 
 Wash the peas, which inay be rather old ones ; 
 put them into a- stewpan with a piece of fresh 
 butter the 'size of >., walnut, "a bunch of parsley 
 and green onions, two cloves, a small slice of 
 ra# ham, a large white lettuce cut into slices,' 
 and a little salt. Put all on the fire to stew for 
 a few' minutes -in itB own- 'liquor; then add a- 
 
 little boiling water, and allow it to stand fo^ 
 fifteen minutes. Add a lumy of sugar and some 
 small bits of butter rolled in flour; mix well, 
 bring to boiling point again to thicken, and 
 serve. 
 
 PEASANT'S PUDDING. 
 
 Butter a moderate-sized pie-dish, and fill it 
 with alternate layers of fruit and thin slices of 
 bread or grated bread-crumbs. Add sugar ac- 
 cording to the acidity of the fruit, and if it is 
 not a juicy kind,, pour half a cupful of cold 
 water, or a little lemon-juice, over the pudding. 
 Red and white currants, strawberries, rasp- 
 berries, and cherries will not require any water 
 to moisten them. The first layer in the dish 
 should consist of bread, and the last of fruit. 
 Bake in a well-heated oven for half an hour. 
 Probable cost uncertain, varying, of course, with 
 the fruit. This is an inexpensive and whole- 
 some pudding. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 PEAS, ASPARAGUS HEADS AS. 
 
 {See Asparagus Heads as Peas.) 
 
 PEAS " BROSE." 
 
 In Scotland " peas brose," as it is called, is 
 made of the fine flour of the white pea, by form- 
 ing it into a mass merely by the addition of 
 boiling water, a piece of butter, and a little 
 salt. It is a favourite dish with not only the 
 working classes, but is even esteemed by many 
 of the gentry. It was introduced into fashion 
 chiefly by the recommendation of Dr. Cleghorn, 
 at one time Professor of Chemistry in Glasgow 
 University. Peas brose is usually eaten with 
 milk, and is a sweet nourishing article of diet, 
 peculiarly fitted for persons of a costive habit, 
 and for children. 
 
 PEAS, FRICASSEE OF. 
 
 Melt one and a half ounces of butter in a 
 stewpan, add one ounce of flour, mix well with- 
 out discolouring. Pour in half a pint of boiling 
 white stock, add a pinch of pepper, and a tea-, 
 spoonful of castor sugar. Simmer for five min- 
 utes, put in the peas, either fresh or preserved, 
 and shake them well; warm thoroughly, add 
 three table-spoonfuls of boiled ham, tongue, or 
 bacon, cut into very small pieces ; garnish with 
 croiitons, and serve hot. 
 
 PEAS, GREEN. 
 
 To have green peas in perfection, care should 
 be taken to obtain them young, freshly-gathered, 
 and freshly-shelled. The condition of the peas 
 may be known from the appearance of the shells. 
 When the peas are young the shells are green, 
 when newly gathered they are crisp, when old 
 they look yellow, and when plump the peas are 
 fine and large. If peas are shelled some hours 
 before they are cooked they lose greatly in 
 flavour. 
 
 PEAS, GREEN (a French mode of cooking). 
 
 Melt one ounce of fresh butter in a saucepan. 
 When it is dissolved without being the least 
 coloured, throw in a quart of peas. Shake them 
 over the fire for a minute or two, then pour over 
 them as much boiling water or weak stock as 
 will barely cover them, add half a tea-spoonful 
 of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, the heart 
 of a lettuce finely shredded, -three young onions, , 
 
PEA 
 
 517 
 
 PEA 
 
 and a small sprig of parsley. Simmer gently 
 until the peas are tender. Take the saucepan 
 from the fire for a minute, and in order to 
 thicken the sauce stir in the well-beaten yolks 
 of three eggs. The peas must not boil up after 
 the eggs are added. Serve the peas on a hot dish 
 with the sauce poured over tibem. Time, half 
 an hour. Probable cost of peas, 8d. per peck, 
 when in full season. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 PEAS, GREEN (a French mode of cooking), another 
 way. 
 Take two quarts of green peas, and put them 
 in a panful of cold water with three ounces of 
 butter. Work the peas in the water, so that 
 their surface may be equally smeared with the 
 butter, that they may adhere together. Drain 
 off the water, take out the peas by handfuls, 
 and transfer them to a colander. Stew them 
 over a moderate fire with some green onions and 
 a bunch of parsley ; dust a little flour over them, 
 and stir carefully ; next pour over the peas just 
 enough boiling water to cover them. Boil fast 
 till the water is evaporated, then put in a lump 
 of sugar, moistened, that it may be more quickly 
 dissolved, and a little salt. Have ready mixed 
 two ounces of butter with some flour ; stir it into 
 the peas, and let it be equally distributed among 
 them. Then serve. 
 
 PEAS, GREEN (^ la Creme). 
 
 Take two quarts of young green peas, toss 
 them in a stewpan with a bit of butter, and let 
 them stew over a gentle fire ; add a little bunch 
 of parsley and shallots. When nearly ready, 
 season with a little salt and pepper ; remove the 
 parsley and shallots, and mix in a wine-glassful 
 of cream sweetened with a little sugar. 
 
 PEAS, GREEN (a la Paysanne). 
 
 Prepare the peas as in the preceding recipe. 
 Take a handfvil of parsley, a few green onions, 
 and a few cabbage and cos-lettuces, wash them, 
 and break, instead of cutting them. Drain them 
 from the water, and put them with the peas 
 over a very slow fire. No other moisture than 
 the butter will be required. Be carpful, by stir- 
 ring the contents of the stewpan repeatedly, 
 that they do not burn. When done enough, 
 add pepper and salt, and serve. 
 
 PEAS, GREEN, BOILED. 
 
 Choose peas which are young and freshly 
 gathered. Do not shell them until just before 
 they are to be boiled. To boil a quart of peas, 
 put two quarts of water into a saucepan, and 
 with it a quarter of an ounce of salt. Let it 
 boil, and skim it well, then throw in the peas, 
 and let them boil quickly, without being covered, 
 until they are tender. As soon as this point is 
 reached, take them at once off the fire, or they 
 
 ,will quickly^ break, and their appearance be 
 spoilt. Drain them, put them into a clean 
 saucepan with three ounces of fresh butter, 
 sprinkle a little salt and white sugar upon them, 
 and shake them over the fire until the butter is 
 melted. Serve immediately. A bunch of mint 
 is frequently thrown into the water with the 
 peas; but before doing this it is well to ascer- 
 tain if the flavour is liked, as some persons 
 have a strong objection to it. Instead of 
 
 . being shaken up with butter, green peas are 
 
 sometimes served with a handful of finely- 
 chopped mint strewn over them in the tujeen, 
 pats of fresh butter being served separately in 
 a cooler. Time to boil young fresh peas, a 
 quarter of an hour; large old ones, twenty-five 
 minutes or more. jProbable coat of garden peas 
 when in full season, 8d. per peck; field peas, 
 4d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 PEAS, GREEN, BOILED (Dr. Kitchener's recipe). 
 
 "Young green peas well dressed are one of 
 the most delicious delicacies of the vegetable 
 kingdom. They must be young; it, is equally 
 indispensable that they be fresh gathered, and 
 cooked as soon as they are shelled, for they soon 
 lose both their colour and sweetness. If you 
 wish to feast upon peas in perfection, you must 
 have them gathered the same day they are 
 dressed, and put on to boil within half an hour 
 after they are shelled. Pass them through a 
 riddle, i.e. a coarse sieve, which is made for the 
 purpose of separating them. This precaution 
 is necessary, for large and small peas cannot be 
 boiled together, as the former will take more 
 time than the latter. . For a peck of peas, set 
 on a, saucepan with a gallon of water in it; 
 when it boils, put in your peas with a table- 
 spoonful of salt; skim it well, keep them boil- 
 ing quick from twenty to thirty minutes, 
 according to their age and size ; the best way 
 to judge of their being done enough, and in- 
 deed the only way to make sure of cooking them 
 to and not beyond the point of perfection, or, 
 as the pea-eaters say, of ' boiling them to a 
 bubble,' is to take them out with a spoon and 
 taste them. When, they are done enough, drain 
 them on a hair sieve. If you like them but- 
 tered, put them into a pie-dish, divide some 
 butter into small bits, and lay them on the 
 peas ; put another dish over them, and turn 
 them over and over; this will melt the butter 
 through them; but as all people do not like 
 buttered peas, you had better send them to table 
 plain as they come out of the saucepan, with 
 melted butter in a sauce tureen. It is usual to 
 boil some mint with the peas; but if you wish 
 to garnish the peas with mint, boil a few sprigs 
 in a saucepan by themselves. A peck of young 
 peas will not yield more than enough for a 
 couple of hearty pea-eaters; when the pods are 
 full, it may serve for three. Never think of 
 purchasing peas ready-shelled, for the cogent 
 reasons assigned in the first part of this recipe." 
 
 PEAS, GREEN, BOTTLED. 
 
 Shell the peas, put them into dry wide- 
 mouthed bottles, and shake them together so 
 that they may lie in as little space as possible. 
 Cork the bottles closely, and seal the corks. 
 Bury the bottles in the driest part of the garden, 
 and take them up as they are wanted. Ttey 
 will keep good five or six months. 
 
 PEAS, GREEN, BOTTLED (another way). 
 
 Choose peas which are large and fully grown, 
 though not old. Put them into perfectly dry 
 . wide-mouthed bottles, shake them down, corii 
 securely, and cover the corks with bladder. Tie 
 a wisp of hay round the lower part of the bot- 
 tles to prevent their knocking against each other 
 in the pan, put them side by side in a large 
 saucepan, and pour into it as much cold water 
 
PEA 
 
 318 
 
 PEA 
 
 as will reach to their necks. Put the sauce- 
 pan on the fire, and let it remain for two hours 
 after the water has reached the boiling point, 
 then take it off, but do not remove the bottles 
 until the water is cold. Seal the corks, and 
 store in a, cool dry place. 
 
 PEAS, GREEN, OLD, HOW TO COOK. 
 
 When peas are old they should be shelled, 
 and soaked in water for some time before being 
 cooked. If of superior qualitr they will only 
 require soaking about half an fffeur, but if not, 
 three or four hours will not be too much for 
 them. An excellent dish may be made' with old 
 peas by soaking them as above directed, and 
 then stewing them with a small piece of beef, 
 or salt pork. The time required for cooking 
 will of course depend upon the weight of the 
 meat. It is best, however, to use as much 
 water only as will barely cover the peas. Serve 
 the meat and vegetables on the same dish, and 
 as hot as possible. Time, half an hour for the 
 peas. Probable cost, 6d. per peck. 
 
 PEAS, GREEN, PRESERVED. 
 
 Take the peas when they are fully grown, but 
 not old. Shell them, throw them into boiling 
 water, and let them boil for ten minutes, then 
 drain well, spread them out on tins, and put 
 them in a cool oven once or twice to harden. 
 When done, put them into paper bags, tie up 
 securely, and hang in a dry warm room until 
 wanted. Before using them, soak them in 
 water for a little while, and put an ounce of 
 butter into the water in which they are boiled. 
 
 PEAS, GREEN, PRESERVED (other ways). 
 
 Fill a tin box with them, pour in a little 
 water which has been salted, put on the cover, 
 which must be soldered, eo that the box shall 
 be hermetically tight, and then boil the box. 
 Or, dry the peas in a cool oven, and afterwards 
 hang them up in paper bags. Or, gather the 
 peas on a fine dry day, open the pods on a 
 large clean cloth, and leave the peas for five or 
 six hours exposed to the sun and air. Rub them 
 
 fently in a rough towel till they are perfectly 
 ry, bottle them as air-tight as possible, and 
 store in a dry place. 
 
 PEAS, GREEN, PUREE OF. 
 
 Throw the peas into as much boiling water as 
 will cover them. Season with salt and sugar, 
 and when they are quite soft drain in a colander, 
 and press them through a fine hair sieve. Put 
 the pulp into a stewpan, with one-eighth of its 
 bulk of good stock or white sauce, or, if pre- 
 ferred, with three or four ounces of butter, and 
 a little pepper and salt. Stir the mixture over 
 the fire until it is very hot, and serve imme- 
 diately. This puree is used with lamb cutlets, 
 and various other meats. Time, half an hour. 
 Probable cost of peas, when in full season, 6d. 
 per peck.. Sufficient, a peck for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 PEAS, GREEN, SOUP. 
 
 In making green peas soup it is most im- 
 portant that the peas used should neither be 
 old nor of inferior quality, or the flavour of the 
 soup will be spoilt. They are best when they 
 are almost fully grown. Shell a peck of green 
 peas and put aside about a handful of these to 
 
 bo used as hereafter directed. Put the rest into 
 a stewpan with four ounces of fresh butter, a 
 fresh lettuce finely shredded, a small sprig of 
 mint (if the flavour be not disliked), a moderate- 
 sized onion, a tea-spoonful of salt, and a dozen 
 leaves of spinach for colouring. Let the vege- 
 tables steam gently in the butter until they are 
 quite soft, stirring occasionally to prevent their 
 burning, then press them through a fine sieve, 
 and mix with the pulp two quarts of clear 
 stock or water. Return the soup to the sauce- 
 pan, add a small lump of sugar and a dessert- 
 spoonful of arrowroot, mix smoothly with water 
 and stock to make half a pint. Stir this into 
 the liquid, boil, and skim carefully. Whilst 
 it is simmering, put into another saucepan of 
 boiling water the handful of peas which were set 
 aside with half a tea-spoonful of salt and half a 
 tea-spoonful of powdered sugar. Let the peas 
 boil until tender, then drain them well, and put 
 them into the soup. Serve as hot as possible. 
 Send a little powdered mint to table on a plate. 
 Peas are so nourishing that stock is not needed 
 for this soup, and the colour will be better if 
 water be used. Sufficient for eight or nine per- 
 sons. Probable cost. Is. 6d. per quart. 
 
 PEAS, GREEN, SOUP, WITHOUT MEAT, 
 ECONOMICAL AND EXCELLENT, 
 
 Take a quart of green peas fully grown, but 
 neither yellow nor worm-eaten, and put them 
 into a saucepan, with three pints of boiling 
 water, a tea-spoonful of salt, an ounce of but- 
 ter, two or three sprigs of mint, a- dozen spring 
 onions, and a handful of fresh parsley, or a 
 dozen leaves of spinach. Boil until the peas 
 are tender, then strain off the liquor and pre- 
 serve it. Pound the peas in a mortar, add to 
 them the liquid in which they were boiled, 
 and then pass the whole through a fine hair 
 sieve. Bring the soup to the point of boiling, 
 stir into it another ounce of butter, a dessert- 
 spoonful of Bovril, a tea-spoonful of powdered 
 sugar, pepper, and a spoonful of arrowroot 
 moistened with water. Serve as hot as possible. 
 Time, half an hour to boil the peas. Probable 
 cost, lOd. Sufficient tor six or seven persons. 
 
 PEAS, GREEN, STEWED. 
 
 Shell a peck of young peas, put them into a 
 bowl with plenty of cold water and two ounces 
 of butter, work them well with the fingers to 
 make the peas stick together, and then drain 
 them in a colander. Put the peas into a stew- 
 pan, with half a dozen young oliions, two cab- 
 bage-lettuces cut into small pieces, a handful of 
 parsley, a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, and 
 a little salt. Cover the saucepan closely, and 
 let its contents stew gently over a slow fire for 
 about half an hour. If the lettuces and pea? do 
 not yield sufficient water a table-spoonful may 
 be added, but if they are simmered gently this 
 will in all probability be unnecessary. Shake 
 the stewpan occasionally, that all may be 
 equally cooked. Mix two ounces of butter 
 smoothly with a dessert-spoonful of flour, and 
 when the peas are tender put the mixture into 
 the saucepan with them. Shake them over the 
 fire for three or four minutes until the butter 
 is melted, then turn them upon a hot dish, and 
 serve immediately. If preferred, an egg beaten 
 up with a table-spoonful of water may be 
 
PEA 
 
 519 
 
 PEA 
 
 substituted for the butter. Probable cost. 
 Is. 2d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 PEAS, GREEN, STEWED, WITH HAM AND 
 LETTUCES. 
 
 Sbell a peck of young green peas and prepare 
 them according to the directions given in the 
 last recipe. Put them into a stewpan, with 
 the hearts of two cabbage-lettuces finely 
 shredded, a large onion cut into thin slices, a 
 bandful of parsley, and half a pound of ham or 
 bacon cut into small pieces. Cover the sauce- 
 pan closely, and let its contents stew until the 
 peas are tender. If necessary add a table- 
 spoonful of water or stock. Shake the sauce- 
 pan over the fire occasionally to prevent burn- 
 ing. When the peas are cooked enough take 
 out the ham and onion, put in two ounces of 
 "butter mixed smoothly with a dessert-spoonful 
 •of flour and a table-spoonful of cream. A sprig 
 or two of mint may be stewed with the peas if 
 "the flavour be liked. Simmer gently for four 
 minutes, and serve as hot as possible. Time, 
 ^bout half an hour to stew the peas. Probable 
 cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 PEAS, GREEN, WITH CREAM SAUCE. 
 
 Boil a quart of young freshly-gathered peas in 
 -slightly salted water until th^ are tender, then 
 drain them in a colander. Melt two ounces of 
 fresh butter over the fire, mix smoothly with it a 
 •dessert-spoonful of flour, and add very gradu- 
 ally a cupful pf thick cream, or, failing this, 
 new milk. When the sauce boils, put in the 
 ■peas, stir them until they are quite hot, and 
 ■serve immediately. Time, from fifteen to 
 twenty-five minutes to boil the peas. Prob- 
 ■able cost, 8d. per peck when in full season. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 .PEAS PORRIDGE. 
 
 Soak a pint of split peas for a night in cold 
 ■water, and take away those that float. Slice 
 -two moderate-sized Spanish onions and fry them 
 dn a little hot fat, with two or three sticks of 
 •celery cut into two-inch lengths. Drain them 
 and put them into a large saucepan, with a 
 launch of savoury herbs, two anchovies, or fail- 
 ing these half a red herring, a crust of bread 
 toasted on both sidfes, and three quarts of cold 
 -water. Boil gently until the liquid is strongly 
 impregnated with the flavour of the herbs, etc. 
 'Skim and strain it, and return it to the sauce- 
 pan with the soaked peas and a pound of raw 
 potatoes coarsely grated. Simmer again until 
 "the peas are quite soft. Press them through a 
 bair sieve, and whilst pressing keep pouring a 
 little liquid upon them to' soften them. Return 
 "the porridge to the saucepan; and if it is not 
 thick enough add to it a lump of butter mixed 
 smoothly with a little flour. Season with pep- 
 per and salt. Cut up half a dozen leeks into 
 ■two-inch lengths, boil them in the soup, and 
 when they are tender it is ready for serving. 
 Time, three hours or more. Probable cost. Is. 
 'Sufficient for eight or ten persons. 
 
 tPEAS PUDDING (Dr. Kitchener's recipe). 
 
 " Put a quart of «plit peas into a clean cloth ; 
 ■do not tie them up too close, but leave a little 
 room for them to swell : put them on to boil in 
 ■cold water slowly till they are tender ; if they 
 ■arc good peas they will be boiled enough in 
 
 about two hours and a half ; rub them through a 
 sieve into a deep dish, adding to them an egg 
 or two, an ounce of butter, and some pepper 
 and salt ; beat these ingredients well together 
 for about ten minutes, and when they are 
 thoroughly incorporated flour the cloth well, 
 put the pudding in, tie it up as tightly as possi- 
 ble, and boil it an hour longer. It is as good 
 with boiled beef as it is with boiled jtork; and 
 why not with roasted pork? This is a very 
 good accompaniment to cold pork or cold beet." 
 To increase the bulk and diminish the expense 
 of this pudding, the economical housekeeper 
 who has a large family to feed may add to the 
 above ingredients two pounds of potatoes that 
 have been boiled and well mashed. To many 
 this mixture is more agreeable than peas pud- 
 ding alone. 
 
 PEAS PUDDING (another way). 
 
 Soak a pint of split peas overnight, and re- 
 move all that are not quite good. 'The following 
 morning drain them, tie them in a thick cloth, 
 leave room for swelling, and put them into a 
 saucepan with plenty of soft cold water. If 
 soft water cannot be obtained half, a tea-spoon- 
 ful of carbonate of soda should be stirred into 
 that in which the peas are boiled. Boil until 
 the peas are tender, then press them through a 
 colander, stir an ounce of butter into the pulp, 
 with a little pepper and salt, and, if liked, two 
 well-beaten eggs. Beat the mixture thoroughly, 
 tie it tightly in a cloth, and boil again for one 
 hour. If the eggs are omitted the pudding will 
 have to be served in a shape, as the eggs bind it 
 together. If the peas are notsqft at the end 
 of two hours and a half they are of inferior 
 quality, and cannot be made soft. One hour's 
 boiling will be found sufficient for superior 
 peas. Time, altogether, to boil, three hours 
 and a half. Probable cost, 5d. Sufficisnt for 
 half a dozen persons. 
 
 PEAS PUDDING, SUPERLATIVE. 
 
 Soak and boil a pint of peas according to the 
 directions given above, press them through a 
 sieve, season with pepper and salt, and beat 
 thoroughly for eight or ten minutes, first add- 
 ing three well-beaten eggs, two ounces of clari- 
 fied butter, and a table-spoonful of thick cream. 
 Pour the mixture into, a buttered mould, which 
 it should quite fill, cover with a, floured cloth, 
 plunge the mould into boiling water, and let 
 the pudding boil quickly till done enough. 
 Turn it out before serving, and send melted 
 butter to table with it. Time, four hours. 
 Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for six or eight 
 persons. 
 
 PEAS SOUP. 
 
 Peas soup may be made from dried peas either 
 whole or split: the latter are to be preferred. 
 Soak a quart of peas overnight. The next day 
 wash and drain them, and put them into a large 
 saucepan, with six ounces of lean ham, or if it 
 is at hand, the knuckle-bone of a ham, three 
 sliced carrots, two onions, and three or four 
 sticks of celery cut into small pieces. Pour 
 over these three quarts of the liquor in which 
 pork, beef, or mutton has been boiled. Simmer 
 gently until the peas are reduced to pulp, stir- 
 ring frequently, then rub the whole through .a 
 
PEA 
 
 520 
 
 PEM 
 
 hair sieve, and put the soup back into the 
 stewpan. Let it boil, and skim it carefully. 
 Add pepper and salt if necessary, stir in an 
 ounce of butter, and serve as hot as possible. 
 Send powdered mint or powdered sage to table 
 on a separate dish. A table-spoonful of curry 
 powder will greatly improve the soup. Time, 
 four hours. Probable cost of the peas, 5d. per 
 quart. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. 
 
 PEAS SOUP (another way). 
 
 When no stock is at hand procure two penny- 
 worth of fresh bones the day before the soup is 
 wanted. Wash them well, trim them, and put 
 them into a saucepan with two quarts of cold 
 water, two carrots, three onions, one turnip, 
 four or five sticks of celery, eight peppercorns, 
 half a tearspoonful of dried mint, a salt-spoon- 
 ful of salt, and a table-spoonful of moist sugar. 
 Bring the liquid to a boil, skim carefully, then 
 draw it to the side of the fire, and let it sim- 
 mer gently for four or five hours. Soak a pint 
 of split peas overnight. The next day wash 
 and boil them gently in a quart of water until 
 they are reduced to a pulp. Be careful to stir 
 frequently, or the peas may burn on the bottom. 
 Strain the stock and mix it with the peas. 
 Boil all together until the peas are well mixed 
 with the soup, and add two ounces of butter 
 which has been smoothly mixed with three 
 dessert-spoonfuls of flour, a tea-spoonful of salt, 
 half a tea-spoonful of unmixed mustard, and a 
 pindh of cayenne. Boil for half an hour, then 
 rub the soup through a hair sieve, boil again, 
 and serve immediately. Send toasted sippets 
 and powdered dried mint to table on separate 
 dishes. Time, from an hour and a half to 
 three hours to boil the peas; half an hour to 
 boil the soup. If the water used in making 
 peas soup has been previously used in cooking 
 animal or vegetable fbod, the soup will thereby 
 be greatly improved. Probable cost. Is. Suf- 
 ficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 PEAS SOUP (another way). 
 
 Cut two ounces of lean ham or bacon into 
 dice, and fry them with a sliced onion in a 
 little dripping until they are lightly browned. 
 Put with them one turnip, two carrots, three or 
 four sticks of celery, and one leek, all cut into 
 small pieces, and stir the whole of the above 
 ingredients over the fire for ten minutes more. 
 Pour over them three quarts of water, boil, and 
 add a pint of peas which have been soaked in 
 cold water all night. Boil gently until the peas 
 are quite soft, stir frequently to prevent burn- 
 ing, then add a little salt and pepper, a tea- 
 spoonful of moist sugar, and a salt-spoonful of 
 dried and powdered mint. Pub the soup 
 through a sieve. If it is not sufficiently thick, 
 stir into it three or four ounces of flour mixed 
 smoothly with a little cold water. Boil half an 
 hour longer, and serve very hot. Time, three 
 hours. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for six or 
 eight persons. 
 
 PEAS SOUP, TO FLAVOUR. 
 
 A pinch of the following savoury powder will 
 impart an agreeable flavour to dried peas soup. 
 Pound together in a mortar one ounce of dried 
 sage, one ounce of dried mint, a quarter of an 
 ounce of celery-seed, a sprinkling of cayenne. 
 
 and a little allspice. When the ingrredients are 
 reduced to powder, put them into a perfectly 
 dry bottle, cork securely, and store until wanted 
 for use. 
 
 PEAS, STEWED, AND LETTUCE. 
 
 Take two lettuces, one quart of peas, four 
 table-spoonfuls of gravy, one ounce of butter, 
 a tea-spoonful of flour, and one of castor sugar, 
 pepper, and salt. Wash and take off the out- 
 side leaves of the lettuces, lay them in cold 
 water for two hours, slice them in fine strips, 
 and put them in a saucepan with the peas, 
 gravy, and butter rubbed into the flour, the 
 sugar, pepper, and. salt. Cover the saucepan, 
 and stew till the peas are tender. 
 
 PEAS, TINNED. 
 
 Put the tin into cold water before opening, 
 bring the water to a. boil, and let it boil for five 
 minutes. Cut open the tin at top, pour out the 
 liquor, and serve the peas with a few sprigs of 
 fresh mint that have been boiled for two or 
 three minutes. Add half a tea-spoonful of icing 
 sugar, a salt-spoonful of salt, and a good-sized 
 piece of butter. 
 
 PECTORAL BROTH (Invalid Cookery). 
 
 Cut a chicken into joints and put them into a 
 stewpan, with two pints of cold spring water, 
 a fresh lettuce finely shredded, three ounces of 
 prepared Iceland moss, a dessert-spoonful of 
 gum-arabic, a sprig of burrage, two or three 
 sprigs of chervil, and a small pinch of salt and 
 pepper. Bring the liquid gently to a boil, stir- 
 ring it occasionally, then draw the saucepan to 
 the side and let its contents simmer gently for 
 an hour. Strain the broth, add a little more salt if 
 required, and serve either hot or cold as a jelly. 
 The flesh of the bird may be made into a chickeni 
 panada (see Chicken Panada). The above is 
 good for consumptive persons. Probable cost, 
 3s. Sufficient for one person. 
 
 PEEL, ORANGE AND LEMON. 
 
 The rinds of the orange and lemon may be 
 classed amongst the aromatic condiments. They 
 owe their high flavour to the essential oil they 
 contain. When this is extracted it is sold as 
 the essence of oranges and lemons. A few drops 
 of this essential oil is quite as useful as the peel 
 itself : besides, it has the advantage of being 
 easily preserved, whereas the peel when dried 
 loses in course of time most of its flavour, from 
 the essential oil escaping. 
 
 PEELS OF FRUITS, TO PRESERVE THE. 
 
 The portion of the peel to be preserved should 
 be separated from the rest and dried in a gentle 
 heat. 
 
 PEMIUICAN. 
 
 Pemmican is a' preparation of preserved meat, 
 made by cutting lean meat into thin steaks, 
 drying these thoroughly, reducing the substance 
 to powder, and mixing it with melted fat, or 
 beef suet. The following is an account given by 
 Sir John Richardson of the preparation of pem- 
 mican for use in the search. for Sir John Frank- 
 lin. " The round or buttock of beef, of the best 
 quality, having been cut into thin steaks, from 
 which the fat and membranous parts were pared 
 away, was dried in a maltkiln over an oak fire 
 
PEN 
 
 S21 
 
 PEP 
 
 \mtil its moisture was entirely dissipated, and 
 the fibre of the meat became friable. It was 
 then ground in a malt-mill, when it resembled 
 finely-grated meat. Being next mixed with an 
 equal quantity of melted beef suet, or lard, the 
 preparation of plain pemmican was complete ; 
 but to render it more agreeable to the unaccus- 
 tomed palate, a proportion of the best Zante 
 currants was added to part of it, and part was 
 sweetened with sugar. Both these kinds were 
 much approved of in the sequel, but more 
 especially that to which the sugar had been 
 added. After the ingredients had been well in- 
 corporated by stirring, they were transferred to 
 tin canisters capable of containing eighty-five 
 pounds each, and having been firmly rammed 
 down, and allowed to contract further by cool- 
 ing, the air was completely expelled by filling 
 the canister to the brim with melted lard 
 through a small hole left in the end, which was 
 then covered with a piece of tin, and soldered 
 up. Finally, the canister was painted and 
 lettered according to its contents." 
 
 PENINSULA PUDDING. 
 
 Take six ounces of picked and dried currants, 
 and four ounces of raisins weighed after they 
 have been stoned. Mix with these four ounces 
 of sugar which has been rubbed upon the rind 
 of a small lemon and powdered, and add six 
 ounces of chopped apples, three ounces of 
 finely-shredded suet, three ounces of bread- 
 crumbs,- a pinch of salt, and the eighth of a 
 nutmeg, grated. Mix the dry ingredients thor- 
 oughly, then stir into them three well-beaten 
 eggs, the, strained juice of the lemon, and a 
 glassful of brandy. Pour the mixture into a 
 buttered mould which it will fill to the brim, 
 cover with oiled paper, and tie the mould in a 
 floured cloth. Plunge it into boiling water, 
 and keep the pudding boiling until it is done 
 enough. Turn it out carefully, sift pow- 
 dered sugar thickly over it, and send sweet 
 sauce or wine sauce to table with it. Time 
 to boil, two hours. Probable cost. Is. 3d., 
 exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. 
 
 PEPPER. 
 
 Pepper, as used for seasoning, is the produce 
 of a plant which grows almost exclusively in 
 tropical countries, and is remarkable for its 
 aromatic, hot, pungent taste. There are several 
 kinds to be met with, of which the mo3t im- 
 portant are black pepper, white pepper, long 
 pepper, cayenne pepper, and Nepaul pepper. 
 JEn order to test the quality of the peppercorns 
 rub them between the hands; if they are easily 
 crushed to powder they are bad. Pepper was 
 known to the ancient Greeks and Romans. We 
 find two sorts described in the fourth century 
 B.C. At one time it held a much more; import- 
 ^ant place in the commerce of the world than 
 now, having" been, before the days of cotton, 
 coffee, and sugar, a leading article in the traffic 
 between Europe and India. 
 
 PEPPER, BLACK. 
 
 This is the moat important sort of pepper. It 
 is the dried ripe berry of a climbing plant that 
 has' been cultivated in India for ages. In the 
 state in which we receive the berries they are 
 
 black and wrinkled. Thoy are then ground 
 into the coarse grey powder known at table as 
 black pepper. Prom Pereira we learn that 
 there are three kinds of Uach pepper, distin- 
 guished by wholesale dealers. These are 
 " Malabar pepper — this is the most valuable ; 
 it is hrownish Uach, free from stalks, and nearly. 
 
 THE PEPPER PLANT. 
 
 free from dust. Penang pepper — this is hroivn- 
 ish hlach, larger, smoother, free from stalks, tut 
 very dusty. It is sometimes used in England 
 to manufacture white pepper. Sumatra pepper 
 — this is the cheapest sort. It is hlacJe mixed 
 with stalks, and contains much dust. Under 
 the name of Sumatra pepper, some dealers in- 
 clude the Penang or brownish black sort, and 
 the black Sumatra sort." 
 
 PEPPER, CAYENNE. 
 
 Cayenne pepper is a compound article, the 
 chief ingredient of which is the epidermis and 
 pulp of the common capsicum, a plant much 
 cultivated in most tropical climates. The best 
 cayenne pepper is manufactured in the West 
 Indies. The berries, which are often larger 
 than an egg, although other varieties are 
 scarcely larger than a clove, are opened, and 
 the seeds are taken out: the scarlet epidermis 
 and pulp are then well beaten up with flour and 
 salt into a paste, which is afterwards baked 
 until quite hard, and then ground into a coarse: 
 powder, which is put into well-corked bottles 
 for use. Other methods are used, but this is 
 the mode of preparing the much-prized West 
 India cayenne pepper." Cayenne pepper has 
 become a necessary article at table, and is 
 highly esteemed for its flavour and the quality 
 it is supposed to possess of aiding the diges- 
 tion of fish and other kinds of food. One may 
 reasonably question whether indulgence in this 
 powerful spice is conducive to health, for 
 though cayenne pepper, like highly-flavoured 
 Indian soys, may occasionally assist digestion, 
 it would perhaps be better for persons of weak 
 digestion to abstain from food requiring a 
 vigorous stomach, than to employ artificial 
 stimulants. The capsicum from which cayenne 
 pepper is mostly obtained is a native of the 
 East and West Indies, where it grows readily 
 with very little care. i'- 
 
PEP 
 
 522 
 
 PEP 
 
 PEPPER GHERKINS. 
 
 Choose the gherkins of uniform size, and not 
 Tnore than two inches long. Cover with salt, 
 r.nd leave them until the next day, then wipe 
 «ach one singly with a cloth, and put them into 
 jars, cover with boiling vinegar, and allow a 
 dozen bay-leaves, a sprig of tarragon, a quarter 
 of an ounce of black peppercorns, an ounce and 
 a quarter of salt, two small blades of mace, and 
 two shallots, to each quart of vinegar. Cover 
 the jars, and leave them for three days; then 
 drain off the vinegar, boil it up, let it get quite 
 cold, pour it once more over the gherkins, and 
 tie the jars securely down with bladder. Store 
 in a cool dry place. Probable cost, uncertain. 
 
 PEPPER, LONG. 
 
 Long pepper is the product of a plant found 
 in the Circar mountains, where it is gathered 
 in its wild state. It is imported into England 
 irom Bengal, but in inconsiderable quantities, 
 as the qualities of long pepper are analogous to 
 those of white pepper. It is a favourite in some 
 culinary operations, particularly in making 
 pickles. 
 
 PEPPERMINT DROPS. 
 
 Rub the inside of a brass or block-tin sauce- 
 pan with a little oil or butter. Put into it half 
 a pound of powdered and sifted loaf sugar, and 
 two or three table-spoonfuls of water or of 
 strained lemon-juice. Place the saucepan on 
 the fire, and let the syrup boil for ten minutes, 
 then stir into it a dessert-spoonful of the 
 •essence of peppermint, or one hundred and 
 twenty drops of the oil of peppermint. Let the 
 jnixture ■ fall in drops upon white paper which 
 •has been well rubbed over with butter. Prob- 
 able cost. Id. per ounce. 
 
 IPEPPER, NEPAUL, 
 
 The Nepaul pepper, so much prized by East 
 Indian gourmets, is prepared from the berries of 
 a yellow variety of the pepper-plant, cultivated 
 for the purpose. It is flavoured with cumin and 
 other aromatic seeds. 
 
 (PEPPER POT (a hotch-potch). 
 
 Put four quarts of boiling water into a large 
 stewpan, with a mixture of any meats that may 
 be preferred — either three pounds of gravy beef 
 and half a pound of lean ham, or three pounds 
 of the neck of mutton and half a pound of 
 pickled pork; add half a cupful of best rice, a 
 i)unch of savoury herbs, two large onions, and 
 three large potatoes coarsely grated. Skim the 
 liquid carefully during the first half hour, and 
 let it simmer gently until all the goodness is 
 drawn out of the meat. This will require from 
 three to four hours. Strain the soup and let it 
 stand until cold, so that the fat may be entirely 
 Temoved. Put the liquid into the stewpan, with 
 a large fowl cut into joints, and the meat of a 
 lobster or crab finely minced. When the fowl 
 is almost tender, put in a dozen small light suet 
 ■dumplings, and a pint and a half of whatever 
 -vegetables are in season cut up into small 
 pieces. In summer these will consist of peas, 
 cauliflowers, French beans, lettuces, or spinach, 
 and in winter of carrots, turnips, or celery. 
 SriaSon with cayenne and salt, if required. When 
 the vegetables are done enough serve the entire 
 
 preparation in a tureen. Time, about an hour 
 after the fowl is put in. The probable cost 
 varies with the ingredients. Sufficient for eight 
 or nine persons. 
 
 PEPPER POT, WEST INDIAN. 
 
 In country houses where much company is 
 kept, a difficulty is often experienced in dis- 
 posing of the remains of poultry or game, and 
 thus avoiding waste. The following dish may 
 be recommended, as. being palatable and con- 
 venient, and also a great favourite with those 
 who have tried it. Procure a bottle of casaripe 
 sauce. This sauce is sent from the West Indies. 
 It is thick and dark in appearance, and is sold 
 in quart bottles by most Italian warehousemen. 
 Take whatever remains of meat or poultry you 
 may have, cut them into convenient pieces, trim 
 them neatly, put them into a pan, and cover 
 them with the sauce. Make the whole hot over 
 the fire, and take out as much as is required 
 for immediate use. Put a further supply of 
 game, etc., into the pot "when there are any 
 remains, remembering always to cover the ad- 
 ditional meat with sauce, and to warm it each 
 time it is used. The sauce will keep the meat 
 quite good. 
 
 PEPPERS, WHOLE, TO PICKLE QUICKLY. 
 
 Put a hundred peppers into a, bowl, and pour 
 over them a strong brine, made with a pint and 
 a half of salt and as much water as will cover 
 them. Put a board over them to keep them 
 under the water, and let them lie for two days. 
 Drain them, make a small incision in the side 
 of each to let out the water, wipe them with a 
 soft cloth, and put them into a stone jar, with 
 half an ounce of allspice, half an ounce of 
 cloves, and a small lump of alum. Pour cold 
 vinegar over them, and tie a bladder securely 
 over the jar. When pickled in this way, the 
 peppers will preserve their colour. Probable 
 cost, 3s. 6d. for this quantity. 
 
 PEPPER VINEGAR. 
 
 Take fifty fresh red English chillies, cut them 
 in two, put them into a wide-neoked bottle, and 
 pour over them a pint of best vinegar. Let 
 them remain for a fortnight, and shake the bot- 
 tle occasionally. Strain, and bottle for use. 
 Fresh vinegar may be put over the chillies three 
 or four times, until their strength is exhausted. 
 This vinegar is an ag^reeable addition to melted 
 butter in making fish sauces, and is very useful 
 for flavouring purposes. If genuine cayennR 
 can be obtained, ii quarter of an ounce put into 
 a pint of vinegar will answer the same purpose. 
 English chillies are at their best during Sep- 
 tember and October. Probable cost. Is. 6d. to 
 3s. per hundred chillies. Sufficient for a pint 
 of vinegar. 
 
 PEPPER WATER (for flavouring). 
 
 Strain the juice of a fresh lemon into a pint 
 and a half of cold water. Slice an onion and 
 pound it in a mortar, with twelve peppercorns, 
 three cloves of garlic, a table-spoonful of durry- 
 powder, and a dessert-spoonful of salt. Put all 
 into a saucepan, bring the liquid to the point 
 of boiling, cover closely, and let it simmer 
 gently for a quarter of an hour, then strain it 
 through muslin. Put with it a small onion 
 
PEP 
 
 523 
 
 PER 
 
 which has been chopped fine and fried lightly 
 in butter. Boil up once more, and the pepper 
 water is ready to be bottled. Cork closely, 
 and store in a cool, dry place. In India, where 
 this recipe is in great repute, a piece of tamarind 
 IS substituted for the lemon-juice. Probable 
 cost, 2d. per pint. 
 
 PEPPER, WHITE. 
 
 White pepper is the product of the same plant 
 as black pepper. To manufacture it the black 
 wrinkled coats of the seeds are removed by 
 soaking and friction. They are then ground to 
 powder. White pepper is by many preferred to 
 black, on account of its superior appearance. 
 It is deficient, however, in both strength and 
 flavour. Like black peppef, white pepper is 
 divided by wholesale dealers into three kinds or 
 varieties. These are — Tellicherry pepper, which 
 13 of two kinds. Large or fine Tellicherry pep- 
 per is larger and whiter than any other descrip- 
 tion of white pepper, and fetches a higher price ; 
 small or coriander-like pepper is shrivelled. 
 Common white pepper comes from Penang by 
 Singapore; it is round, and not shrivelled; its 
 value depends on its size and whiteness. 
 English bleached or white pepper. — When the 
 two preceding sorts are scarce, brown Penang 
 pepper is bleached. The yellowest and largest 
 grains are chosen for this purpose, for neither 
 an expensive nor small sort would pay. 
 PERCH. 
 
 The perch is one of the commonest of our 
 fresh-water fish : at the same time it is one of 
 the best. It is met with in almost all the lakes 
 and rivers of Great Britain and Ireland, and 
 throughout the whole of the temperate regions 
 ■of the continent. Perch abound in deep, dark, 
 sluggish rivers, and delight to lie about bridges, 
 mill-pools, and in any deep ^nd dari holes in the 
 
 THE PEBCH. 
 
 still parts of water, or the gentle eddies about 
 flood-gates and similar places. When full- 
 grown they are large fish : one weighing a pound 
 is a good fish, and one of three pounds is 
 thought very large; but they have been found 
 weighing eight and even nine pounds. The flesh 
 is white, firm, of a good flavour, and easily 
 digested. Perch are so tenacious of life that 
 they may be carried sixty miles in straw, and 
 yet survive the journey. They are best crimped 
 the moment they are taken out of the water. 
 The peculiarity about the flesh of the perch is 
 that it is very difficult to scale, so much so that 
 some cooks boil the fish first and scale it after- 
 wards. If this is not done, it will be found an 
 assistance to plunge it for a minute into boil- 
 ing water, and then seals it. Perch is in 
 
 season from the latter end of May till the 
 beginning of February. When fresh, the body 
 has a bright shining appearance, and the gills 
 are rosy red. Perch, like all fresh-water fish, 
 should be used as soon as possible after they 
 are caught. 
 
 PERCH (a la Maitre d'Hotel). 
 
 Put into a saucepan as much cold water as will 
 cover the fish, with half a dozen chives,' a 
 handful of parsley, and a little pepper and salt. 
 Place it on the fire, and bring it to a boil. 
 Wash the fish in lukewarm water to free it from 
 slime, empty it, remove the gills and the fins, 
 and scrape it carefully. Plunge it into the 
 boiling water, and when done enough, which 
 will be when the flesh gives way on being pressed 
 with the finger, drain and dish it on a folded 
 napkin, garnish with curled parsley, and send a 
 sauce, made as follows, to table in a tureen. 
 Mix two ounces of fresh butter smoothly with 
 one ounce of flour. Add a quarter of a pint of 
 milk, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, a 
 little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and a 
 table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice. Stir the 
 mixture over the fire without ceasing until it is 
 on the point of boiling. Pour it into a tureen, 
 add to it a piece of butter the size of a walnut, 
 and serve very hot. Time to boil the fish, 
 according to the size: small fish, ten minutes; 
 large, half an hour. Probable cost, uncertain, 
 perch being seldom offered for sale. SufScient, 
 a moderate-sized perch for each person. 
 
 PERCH, BOILED. 
 
 Wash the fish in lukewarm water to take off 
 the slime, scale it carefully, empty it, take out 
 the gills, cut off the fins, place the fish in boil- 
 ing salted water, and keep it boiling until the 
 perch is done enough. In order to ascertain 
 when this point is reached, p^ess the fish with 
 the fingers; if it gives way to the touch it is 
 done. Take it up, drain it, and serve on a hot 
 dish. Garnish with parsley, and send melted 
 butter, parsley sauce, or Dutch sauce, to table 
 in a tureen. Time, about a quarter of an hour 
 for a moderate-sized fish. Probable cost, uncer- 
 tain, perch being seldom offered for sale. Suf- 
 ficient for one person. 
 
 PERCH, FRIED. 
 
 Wash, scale, and clean the fish carefully, wipe 
 them dry, and flour them lightly all over ; then 
 rub off the flour, dip them into beaten egg, and 
 afterwards into finely-grated bread-crumbs, and 
 fry them in plenty of boiling fat, until they are 
 nicely browned. Drain them for a few minutes 
 on an inverted sieve, serve on a hot dish, and 
 garnish with parsley. Send shrimp sauce, 
 anchovy sauce, or plain melted butter, to table 
 in ■ a tureen. Time to fry, according to their 
 size. Probable cost, uncertain, perch being 
 seldom offered for sale. Sufficient, four or five, 
 for a dish. 
 
 PERCH, FRIED, WITH HERBS. 
 
 Take two moderate-sized perch. Wash, empty, 
 and scale them carefully, wipe them dry, and 
 lay them on a dish. Sprinkle a little salt and 
 pepper over them, and pour on them six table- 
 spoonfuls of oil. Let them soak for half an 
 hour, and turn them once during that time. 
 
PER 
 
 524 
 
 PER 
 
 Drain them well, and cover them thickly with 
 finely-grated bread-crumbs, seasoned with pep- 
 per and salt, and flavoured with a powdered 
 clove, or a little grated nutmeg, a table-spoon- 
 ful of chopped parsley, and a pinch of powdered 
 thyme. Fry them in boiling fat till the fish are 
 brightly browned, serve on a hot dish, garnish 
 with parsley, and send melted butter, parsley 
 sauce, or piquant sauce to table in a tureen. 
 Time to fry, ten minutes or more, according to 
 size. Sufficient for two persons. 
 
 PERCH, GRILLED. 
 
 Split the perch down the back, and remove the 
 bone. Lay the fish in salted water for ten min- 
 utes, then dry thoroughly, and grill over a clear 
 fire from eight to ten minutes. Lay it on a hot 
 dish, pepper finely, pour a little oiled butter 
 over, then strew half a dozen chopped and 
 boned anchovies over; close up, and serve very 
 hot. Garnish with fried parsley. 
 
 PERCH, POTTED. 
 
 Take ten or twelve moderate-sized perch. 
 Empty them, take out the gills, sMu them, and 
 cut ori the heads, tails, and fins. Put the fish 
 into a pie-dish that will only just hold them 
 when they are closely packed, sprinkle a little 
 salt over them, and lay on them a muslin bag 
 containing the following ingredients, which 
 have been crushed to powder. Eight pepper- 
 corns, two chillies, four allspice, half an inch 
 of ginger, a bay-leaf, and a laurel-leaf. Put 
 ten ounces of fresh butter, cut into slices, upon 
 the fish, cover it closely, and bake in a gentle 
 oven. When done, lift out the bag, and keep 
 the fish in a cool place until wanted. Serve 
 cold. Time to bake, two hours. Probable cost, 
 uncertain, perch being seldom offered for sale. 
 Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. 
 
 PERCH, STEWED. 
 
 Take three or four moderate-sized perch. 
 Wash, scale, and empty them, and take out 
 the gills, put them into a stewpan, and barely 
 cover them with weak stock, or water. Put 
 with them a large onion cut into slices, four 
 cloves, a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of 
 thyme, a bay-leaf, two pinches of salt, and two 
 pinches of pepper. Simmer gently until the 
 fish is done enough. In order to ascertain when 
 this is the case, press the flesh with the finger, 
 when it should give way to the touch. Lift out 
 the perch, and drain them. Strain the liquid 
 in which they were stewed, thicken it with a 
 little flour and butter, and boil it quickly for a 
 few minutes. Stir into it a wine-glassful of 
 claret, a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a 
 tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovy, a small 
 pinch of cayenne, and a table-spoonful of 
 chopped parsley. Skin the fish (but preserve the 
 fins), put them upon a hot dish, strain the 
 sauce over them, and put the fins at each side 
 .of them ; serve very hot. Time to stew the 
 perch, fifteen or twenty minutes, according to 
 size. Probable cost, uncertain, perch being 
 seldom offered for sale. Sufficient for two or 
 three persons. 
 
 PERCH, STEWED IN WINE. 
 . Like all fish of its kind, the perch, though 
 very good when plainly dressed, is slightly in- 
 sipid ; it is therefore very often cooked, as the 
 
 great Izaak Walton says, "with trouble and 
 charges." When economy does not require to 
 be studied, the following will be found an ex- 
 cellent dish. Take three medium-sized perch, 
 wash, then scale and empty them, and take out 
 the gills. Lay the fish in a stewpan, and just 
 covei them with equal parts of sherry and 
 stock, or, if preferred, with sherry only. Put 
 with them a sliced onion, a handful of parsley, 
 a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a small clove of 
 garlic, and a little pepper and salt, and let them 
 simmer gently until they are sufficiently cooked. 
 Drain them, and keep them hot until the sauce 
 is made. Strain the liquor, put it into a stew- 
 pan, and mix gradually with it an ounce of 
 flour which has b^n smoothly worked with an 
 ounce of butter; let it boil, then add a large 
 table-spoonful of chopped parsley and half an 
 ounce of cold butter. Stir the sauce until the 
 butter is dissolved. Take the whole of the skin 
 off the perch, pour the sauce over them, and 
 stick the red fins into the middle of the backs ; 
 serve as quickly as possible. Time, about a 
 quarter of an hour to stew the perch. It is a 
 fish which is seldom offered for sale. Sufficient 
 for two or three persons. 
 PERCH, WATER SOUCHY. 
 
 This is the best way to dress perch. When 
 they are plentiful, take the smallest fish, clean 
 them, cut them into pieces, and boil slowly with 
 some parsley-roots, and whole pepper, and salt, 
 till a strong broth is obtained. Strain the 
 broth through flne muslin, pick out the parsley- 
 roots, slice them, and return them to the 
 strained liquor, in which the larger perch, pre- 
 viously criniped, are to be boiled. When about 
 done, introdiice a few bunches of parsley pre- 
 viously scalded in water to preserve their green 
 colour. Serve in a deep dish, accompanied by 
 slices of brown bread-and-butter. No sauce is 
 required, the broth, with the addition at table 
 of pepper and salt, being sufficient. 
 
 PERIGORD PIE. 
 
 This celebrated pie derives its name from 
 Perigord, in France, which is a place celebrated 
 for its truffles. It will be evident from this 
 that truffles enter largely into its composition; 
 and as they are both expensive and scarce, it 
 will generally be found more satisfactory to 
 purchase the pies which are imported than to 
 endeavour to manufacture them at home. 
 Nevertheless, as there may be some who prefer 
 making to buying them, the following recipe 
 is given. Procure some fine truffles, and be 
 particular to smell them, and reject any that 
 are at all musty ; one pound will be required for 
 three partridges. Soak them for two or three 
 hours in fresh water, to loosen the earth about 
 them, then rinse them well, and scrub them 
 with a hard brush. Peel them, mince the small 
 and broken ones, and put the rest aside for a 
 little while. Truss, as if for boiling, as many 
 partridges as will be required for the size of 
 the pie. Bone and lard them, and season them 
 with a little salt, pepper, and powdered spice. 
 Make some ■ highly-seasoned forcemeat, accord- 
 ing to the directions given for quenelles. Mix 
 with it the minced truffles, and stuff the birds 
 with whole truffles and a portion of the force- 
 meat. Make a raised crust (see Paste fob 
 
PER 525 
 
 Raised Pies). Line it with slices of bacon and 
 forcemeat. Place the birds in it, backs down- 
 most, fill the vacant places with forcemeat, 
 lay a slice of bacon on the top, put on the lid, 
 ornament as fancy dictates, and bake in a well- 
 heated oven. 
 
 PERIGORD PIE (another way). 
 {See Game Perigobd Pie.) 
 
 pe'rigueux sauce. 
 
 Soak, rinse, and scrub four or five truffles; 
 mince them finely, and put them into a stewpan, 
 with half a pint of good brown sauce, a piece of 
 garlic the size of a pea, and a glassful of sherry 
 or Madeira. Simmer for ten minutes, then add 
 two table-spooufuls of the gravy from meat, 
 or a tea-spoonful of BovrU dissolved in a 
 little boiling water, and half a tea-spoonful of 
 the essence of anchovy. Serve with roast 
 chicken, etc. Whep no brown sauce is at hand 
 it may be easily made, as follows. Work equal 
 parts of butter and flour smoothly together. 
 Stir the mixture over a gentle fire for three 
 minutes, until it is brightly coloured, then add, 
 gradually, as much stock as will make it of the 
 consistency of thick cream. Season with pep- 
 per and salt, and boil the sauce for a minute or 
 two, when it is ready for use. Time, ten min- 
 utes to boil the sauce. Probable cost, varying 
 with the price of the truffles. Sufficient for six 
 or seven persons. 
 
 PERIWINKLE. 
 
 Littorina Uttorea is pre-eminently the peri- 
 winkle of the' British coasts. Immense quanti- 
 ties are brought to the London market, and 
 form a, considerable article of food among the 
 poorer classes. After being boiled in salted 
 water the animal is picked out of the shell with 
 a pin. 
 
 PERIWINKLES, BOILED. 
 
 Wash the periwinkles in several waters, and 
 then let them soak in plenty of fresh water for 
 half an hour; when that is" done, wash them 
 again. These precautions will be found neces- 
 sary to cleanse the fish from the mud and sand 
 which adhere to them. Before boiling, shake 
 them up to make them withdraw into their 
 shells. Put them into a saucepan, and cover 
 with boiling sea-water that has stood a little 
 while to settle, and then been poured off from 
 the sediment. Boil quickly for twenty min- 
 utes, and serve, accompanied by brown bread 
 and" butter. Probable cost, 2d. a pint. Suf- 
 ficient for three or four persons. 
 
 PERRY AND CIDER. 
 
 These are fermented beverages, prepared from 
 the juice ' of pears, and apples. They are not 
 usually . reckoned among the wines, but they 
 belong to that class of beverages as much as 
 those obtained from currants, gooseberries, and 
 other fruits. Both are of ancient date : Pliny 
 tells us that they were made by the Romans in 
 Italy. 
 
 , There are many varieties of pears suited for 
 
 making perry. InxGloucestersmre the Tinton 
 squash is in the higEest esteem ; it is an early 
 fruit, and remarkable for the tenderness ■ of its 
 fle^. The perry obtained from it i^ pale -and 
 sweet,, yet. uncommonly fine, and o^ .a strong. 
 
 PER 
 
 body. The^Oldfield pear^is another'f avourite * 
 it yields a Nfinely-flavoured liquor. The Bar- 
 land pear of ^Worcestershire is in high repute, 
 as is also the r^ pear. \ 
 
 To obtain perry in the greatest perfection, the 
 pear i»«»t— be-in- ar-eertatn-state- of -maturity^: 
 
 iit- should be ripe without being either mellow or 
 decaying. Kra produce of the same tree ripens 
 very irregularijFy the planfc must therefore 
 have a considerable numberof each kind he 
 plants, or he willTfarely have a jsufficient quan- 
 tity of fruit ready to be ground at the same 
 time. Even when the pears havs_fallen spon- 
 taneously from the ^^s, a fourth'at least of 
 some kinds will be foundrummature or decaying, 
 and quite unfit for making fine perry. These 
 ought to be separated from the rest ;^. though 
 they rarely or never are. 
 
 To speark now of the apples required for 
 cider j no 'juice can be depended on for niaking 
 a good liquor that does not possess at the same 
 time /body "and fiavour; the former depends on 
 the jliice confined in the pulp ^r flesh of the 
 fruitl and the latter on the juice' contained in 
 the external skjn or peel, and in the seeds or 
 pips. \ The most agreeable apples to the palate 
 are those which, abound in a juice at once sweet 
 and acidulous, whereas those which suit best 
 for cider have the juice both sweet and acerb, 
 with little mixture of acid. Hence the best 
 fruits for cider manufficture, with few excep- 
 tions, are too astringent to be in demand for 
 table use. \ '\ 
 
 f Perry should be used ilT moderation by those 
 liable to stomach and bowel complaints, as it 
 sometimes causes colic, especially if it is anywise 
 acid. Either alone, however, or mixed with 
 equal parts of water, it is.when of good quality, 
 an excellent refreshing summer beverage. 
 Cider," says one writer, "is not so nutritious 
 as malt liquor, but it forms an excellent bever- 
 age for labouring men in the summer months, 
 its acid assisting materially in quenching thirst. 
 Rough Herefordshire ' cider has been recom- 
 mended as an antiseptic in cases of low fever." 
 
 PERSIAN SHERBET (a refreshingsummer beverage). 
 Boil six or eight stalks of green rhubarb and 
 a quarter of a pound of raisins or figs, cut into 
 slices, in three pints of water. When the 
 liquid has boiled gently for half an hour, strain 
 it through muslin, and stir into it as much 
 lemon or orange syrup as is agreeable to the 
 taste, and a few drops of rose water or orange- 
 flower water. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for 
 two or three persons. 
 
 PERSIAN SHERBET (another way). 
 
 Pick a pound of ripe strawberries, and bruise 
 them well with the back of a wooden spoon. 
 Put them into a basin, with a fresh lemon, cut 
 into thin slices, and a tea-spoonful of orange- 
 flower water, and pour over them a quart of 
 cold water. Let them remain for three' hours, 
 then strain the liquid through muslin, and 
 squeeze the fruit well to make it yield as much 
 juice as possible. Mix with the juice a pound of- 
 refined loaf sugar, and stir until the sugar is 
 dissolved; then strain it again, and place the 
 vessel containing the sherbet on ice until it is 
 wanted for use. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient 
 for- nearly, three pints of sherbet. 
 
 
P£R 
 
 j526 
 
 PHE 
 
 PERSIAN SHERBET, AS SOLD IN THE SHOPS. 
 
 Mix two ounces of bicarbonate of soda with 
 two ounces of tartaric acid, and four ounces of 
 powdered loaf sugar. Flavour the mixture with 
 thirty drops of the essence of lemon, and add 
 two or three drops of any slight perfume. Keep 
 the powder in a closely-stoppered bottle. When 
 wanted for use, mix a tea-spoonful in half a 
 tumbler of water. 
 
 PETITS MORCEAUX (for Dessert). 
 
 Eub four ounces o^is^sugar upon the rind of 
 half a lemon; crush it to powder and mix with 
 it the white of one egg which has been whisked 
 to a firm froth, and six ounces of sweet 
 almonds, and six bitter ones which have been 
 blanched and chopped fine. Roll out half a 
 pound of good puff-paste to the thickness of 
 half an inch, spread the mixture upon it, and 
 stamp it out in fancy shapes, such as rings, dia- 
 monds, hearts, etc. Bake the morceaux on a 
 buttered tin in a well-heated oven, and let 
 them get cold before they are used. Time to 
 bake, about a quarter of an hour, i Probable 
 cost. Is. ) ^ 
 
 PHEASANT. 
 
 The pheasant, almost more than any other 
 bird, requires to be hung as long as it possibly 
 can be with safety. When this is done, the 
 flesh acquires a delicious flavour, peculiar to 
 itself; when it is not done, the flesh is tough 
 and flavourless. ITie length of time that the 
 bird should be kept depends, of course, upon 
 the state of the weather. In cold, frosty 
 weather three weeks may be safely permitted; 
 
 PHEASANT. 
 
 in warm, damp weather four or five days will 
 probably be found sufficient. As a general 
 rule, the bird is ready for the spit when it 
 begins to smell slightly, and to change colour; 
 certainly it should never be cooked until the 
 blood begins to drop from the bill. The hen 
 pheasant is more delicate in flavour than the 
 cock. The old birds may be known by the 
 length and sharpness of the spurs, which in the 
 young ones are short and round. Young 
 pheasants are, of course, to be preferred. 
 These birds are in season from October to 
 February. 
 
 PHEASANT (k la Bonne Femme). 
 
 Pick, draw, and singe a well-hung pheasant, 
 and put it into a buttered stewpan with three 
 ounces of good beef dripping, and six 
 ounces of ham, fat and lean together, cut into 
 inch squares. Fry over a gentle fire until the 
 
 pheasant is equally and lightly browned all over, 
 then add a table-spoonful of chutney, and three 
 or four large Spanish onions cut into thin 
 shces. Cover the saucepan closely, and simmer 
 gently until the pheasant is done enough, and 
 the onions are quite soft. Put the bird on a 
 hot dish. Beat the onions over the fire for 
 eight or ten minutes, season with pepper and 
 salt, and put them round the bird. Serve im- 
 mediately. Time, about an hour to stew the 
 pheasant. Probable cost of pheasants, 3s. when 
 in full season. 
 
 PHEASANT (it la Sainte Alliance), an Epicure's dish'. 
 Take a well-hung cock pheasant, draw it, and 
 truss it for roasting. Stuff it with a forcemeat 
 made as follows. Mince finely the flesh and in- 
 testines of two woodcocks or snipes, add to them 
 two ounces of fresh butter, a tea-spoonful of » 
 salt, a tea^spoonful of pepper, a good pinch of 
 cayenne, a small bunch of savoury herbs finely 
 powdered, and as many chopped truffles as will 
 be required to fill the pheasant. Truss the bird 
 firmly, and roast it before a clear fire, basting 
 liberally with fresh butter. Lay under it, in 
 the pan, a round of toasted bread, upon which a 
 little of the stuffing has been spread, and serve 
 the bird on the toast. Brillat Savarin, with 
 whom this recipe originated, says that a pheas- 
 ant prepared thus is fit for beings better than 
 men. Send brown gravy and bread sauce to 
 table separately. Time to roast, from three- 
 quarters of an hour to one hour and a quarter, 
 according to the size. Probable cost of pheas- 
 ants, 3s, when in iuU season. Sufficient foe 
 three or four persons. 
 
 PHEASANT AND MACARONI. 
 
 Pick the meat from the remains of a cold 
 roast pheasant; carefully remove the skin and 
 sinews, and with two forks pull the flesh into 
 pieces about half an inch long. Weigh it, and 
 put it aside until wanted. Place the bones and 
 trimmings in a saucepan with as much water as 
 will cover them, and let them simmer gently 
 until all the goodness is drawn out, and the 
 sauce is so much reduced that it will merely 
 moisten the meat; then, supposing that the 
 latter weighs about half a pound, put with the 
 gravy two shallots, a little salt and pepper, half 
 a salt-spoonful of grated nutmeg, a table-spoon- 
 ful of mushroom ketchup, and a table-spoonful 
 of sherry. Thicken with a table-spoonful of 
 flour, mixed smoothly with two ounces of butter, 
 and let the gravy simmer gently twenty minutes 
 longer. Strain it, put it back into the sauce- 
 pan, and let it boil up. A few minutes before 
 the pheasant is to be served put the meat into 
 the gravy, let it warm through without boiling, 
 then pour it into the centre of a hot dish, and 
 place round it some macaroni prepared as fol- 
 lows. Throw six ounces of good macaroni into 
 three pints of boiling water, add a little pepper 
 and salt, and simmer gently for twenty mmutes- 
 Draiu well, , and put it back into the saucepan 
 with a pint of good stock, a small tea-spoonfui 
 of salt, a tea-spoonful of unmixed mustard, half 
 a salt-spoonful of grated nutmeg, a pinch of 
 cayenne, and a salt-spoonful of pepper. Let 
 the mixture boil until the macaroni is tender, 
 then add a table-spoonful of grated Parmesan 
 and an ounce of butter. Simmer a quarter of 
 
PHE 
 
 527 
 
 PHC 
 
 an hour longer, shaking and tossing the sauce- 
 pan to mix the maparoni thoroughly v ith tho 
 cheese; then serve. Time, three hours. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 4d., exclusive of the cold meat. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 PHEASANT, BOILED. 
 
 Pick, draw, and singe the pheasant, and tru-ss 
 it firmly, as if for boiling. Cover with buttered 
 paper, wrap it in a floured cloth, plunge it into 
 boiling water, and after it has once boiled up 
 draw it to the side, and let it simmer as gently 
 as possible until it is done enough. The more 
 gently it is simmered the better the bird will 
 look, and the tenderer it will be. Put it on a 
 hot dish, pour a small quantity of sauce over 
 it, and send the rest to table in a tureen. Celery 
 sauce, horse-radish sauce, oyster sauce, white 
 sauce, soubise sauce, or even plain onion sauce, 
 may all be served with boiled pheasant. Time 
 to boil : half an hour from the time of boiling, 
 for a small young bird ; three-quarters of an 
 hour for a larger one ; one hour or more for an 
 old one. Probable cost of pheasants, about 3s. 
 ' each when in full season. Sufficient for three 
 or four persons. 
 
 PHEASANT, BOUDINS OF {k la Richelieu). 
 
 Pick the meat from a cold pheasant. . Care- 
 fully remove the skin and sinews, and pound the 
 flesh in a mortar to a smooth paste. Supposing 
 there to be twelve ounces of pheasant-meat, mix 
 with it twelve ounces of pounded potatoes, or 
 eight ounces of panada (see Panada), and six 
 ounces of fresh butter. Mix these ingredients 
 thoroughly, pound them together, and season 
 rather highly with salt, cayenne, and powdered 
 mace. Bind the mixture together with the un- 
 beaten yolks of five eggs added one at altime, 
 the whites of two, two table-spoonfuls of white 
 sauce, and, last of all, two table-spoonfuls of 
 boiled onions chopped small. As it is very im- 
 portant that the preparation should be as light 
 and spongy as possible, it is well to test a small 
 quantity by making it up into a ball and poach- 
 ing it in hot water, so that if it is not of the 
 proper consistency, it may be made so before the 
 whole is cooked. If not firm enough, more eggs 
 should be added. If too firm, add a small quan- 
 tity of water. Spread the forcemeat out on a 
 dish, and make it up into small cutlets, about 
 three inches long, two inches wide, and a 
 quarter of an inch thick. Drop these carefully 
 into very hot water, and poach them gently for 
 a few minutes. The water should not be allowed 
 to boil, or the boudins will be spoilt. Take 
 them up, idrain well, let them get cold, then dip 
 them into egg and bread-crumbs, and fry in 
 hot butter until they are lightly browned. 
 Serve in a circle on a hot dish, and send some 
 good gravy to table in a tureen. The gravy 
 may be made as follows. Peel and slice four 
 onions. Fry them in butter until they are 
 lightly browned, dredge an ounce of flour over 
 them, and pour upon them half a pint of stock, 
 or, failing this, a tea-spoonful of Bovril dis- 
 solved in half a pint of boiling water. Add a 
 glassful of sherry or claret, the bones of the 
 pheasant broken into small pieces, and a little 
 pepper and salt. Simmer the sauce over a 
 gentle fire for twenty minutes, strain through a 
 sieve, and it is ready for use. Time, four or 
 
 five minutes to simmer the boudins. To be 
 fried in hot fat until they are lightly browned. 
 Probable cost of pheasants, 3s. each when in 
 full season. Sufficient boudins made from the 
 flesh of a, moderate-sized pheasant for six or 
 eight persons. 
 
 PHEASANT, BRAISED, AND RUMP STEAK. 
 
 Pick, draw, and singe a pheasant, and truss 
 it as for boiling. Put into it a little forcemeat 
 made with three ounces of finely-grated bread- 
 crumbs, two ounces of fresh butter, the eighth 
 part of a nutmeg, grated, and a little salt, pep- 
 per, and cayenne. Cover the breast with slices 
 of fat bacon, and fasten them on securely with 
 twine. Though this bacon is not served with 
 the pheasant, it will be found excellent foi* 
 breakfast if it is boiled two or three minutes 
 before being used. Take two pounds of good 
 rump-steak, three-quarters of an inch thick.. 
 Lay two or three slices of fat bacon on this. 
 Eub the inside of a good-sized saucepan with a 
 clove of garlic. Dissolve two ounces of fresh 
 butter in it, put in the beef, and round it a 
 dozen chestnuts which have been skinned and 
 scalded. Lay the pheasant upon it, breast 
 uppermost, add a scraped carrot, three or four 
 of the outer sticks of a head of celery cut into 
 small pieces, four shallots, a good-sized lump of 
 sugar, a small tea-spoonful of pepper, half a 
 tea-spoonful of mustard, a tea-spoonful of 
 anchovy sauce/, a tea-spoonful of soy, and a 
 dessert-spoonful of mushroom ketchup. Pour 
 over these rather less than a pint of boiling 
 stock or water, cover the saucepan closely,- 
 bring the contents to a boil, then draw the paii 
 to the side, and let them simmer as gently as 
 possible for quite three hours. Serve the beef 
 and the pheasant on separate dishes, and as hot 
 as possible, with a little of the gravy strained 
 over the pheasant, and the rest in a tureen. 
 The nuts should be used to garnish the beef. 
 ■If an acid flavour is liked, the juice of half a 
 lemon may be added to the gravy, and a little 
 salt put in if necessary, but this will depend 
 upon the quality of the bacon. Probable cost, 
 about 8s., with the pheasant at 3s., and the 
 rump-steak at Is. 4d. per pound. Sufficient for 
 seven or eight persons, v 
 
 PHEASANT, BROILED. 
 
 Pick, draw, and singe the pheasant, and 
 divide it neatly into joints. Fry these in a 
 little fat until they are equally and lightly 
 browned all over. Drain them well, season 
 with salt and cayenne, and dip them into egg 
 and bread-crumbs. Broil over a clear flre, and 
 serve on a hot dish, with brown sauce, mush- 
 room sauce, or piquant sauce, as an accom- 
 paniment. The remains of a cold roast pheas- 
 ant may be treated in this way. Time to broil, 
 about ten minutes. Probable cost of pheas- 
 ants, 3s. each when in full season. Sufficient 
 for three or four persons. 
 
 PHEASANT, CURRIED. 
 
 Cut the remains of cold cooked pheasant into 
 nice-sized pieces, and stew them gently in half 
 a pint of good curry sauce. Add a table- 
 spoonful of mango chutney, and the same of 
 desiccated cocoa-nut, and serve in a border of 
 boiled rice. 
 
PHE 
 
 528 
 
 PHE 
 
 PHEASANT CUTLETS. 
 
 Take two fine, well-hung pheasants. Pluck, 
 draw, and singe them, and cut them into neat 
 joints. Take out the bones carefully, and shape 
 the joints into cutlets; flatten these with the 
 cutlet-bat, season rather highly, and cover them 
 thickly with egg and finely-grated bread-crumbs. 
 Put the bones and trimmings into a saucepan, 
 with a carrot, a turnip, an onion, a handful of 
 parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a little 
 pepper and salt, and as much water as will cover 
 them. Let them stew slowly, until the flavour 
 of the herbs, etc., is drawn out, then thicken 
 -the gravy, and strain it. Fry the cutlets in a 
 aaute-pan with butter until they are brightly 
 browned all over. Serve on a hot dish with one 
 of the small bones stuck into each cutlet. The 
 gravy must be made hot, and poured round them. 
 Time to fry the cutlets, ten or twelve minutes. 
 Probable cost of pheasants, 38. each when in full 
 season. Suificient for eight or nine persons. 
 
 PHEASANT, FILLETS OF. 
 
 Take a well-hung young pheasant; pluck, 
 draw, and singe it, and then braise the fillets. 
 To do this, cut off the flesh from the breast and 
 ■wing in one slice from each side ; this will give 
 two large fillets; and to get three fillets of 
 uniform size, lift the minion or smaller fillets, 
 vfhich consist of the strips of fiesh which lie 
 ■under the wings, together with the flesh of the 
 merry-thought, and any little pieces that can 
 he lifted off. Dip the fillets into beaten egg, 
 and then into rather highly-seasoned bread- 
 crumbs. Fry in hot fat thin slices of bread of 
 the game size as the fillets until they are 
 lightly browned; drain and dry them. Fry the 
 fillets also, and when they are equally and 
 brightly browned, serve upon the pieces of toast 
 on a hot dish, with a good gravy poured round 
 them. To make the gravy, stew the bones and 
 trimmings of the pheasant in half a pint of 
 ■water, with an inch or two of lemon-rind, a 
 pinch of salt, and half a dozen peppercorns. 
 When they have simmered for half an hour or 
 more, strain the gravy, skim carefully, and 
 thicken with a tea-spoonful of brown thicken- 
 ing. Add a dessert-spoonful of Tnushroom ket- 
 chup, or a tea-spoonful of strained lemon-juice, 
 if either are liked; make the sauce hot, and 
 serve. Time, three-quarters of an hour to stew 
 the sauce, ten or twelve minutes to fry the 
 fillets. Probable cost of pheasants, 3b. each 
 ■when in full season. 
 
 PHEASANT, FLAVOUR OF. 
 
 The pheasant is sometimes domesticated for 
 the table, but the flavour of the bird ig de- 
 cidedly best when in a natural wild state. 
 M. Ude says, " It is not often that pheasants 
 are met with possessing that exquisite taste 
 ■which is acquired only by long keeping, as the 
 damp of tiis climate prevents their being kept 
 so long as they are in other countries. The 
 liens in general are most delicate. The cocks 
 show their age by their spurs.' ' They are only 
 fit to be eaten when the blood begins to run 
 from the bill, which is commonly six days or a 
 week after they have been killed. The flesh of 
 the pheasant is white, tender, and has a good 
 flavour, if you keep it long enough ; if' not, it 
 has no more than a common hen or fowl." - . j 
 
 PHEASANT, FORCEMEAT FOR. 
 
 {See POECEMEAT FOB PHEASANT.) 
 
 PHEASANT, HASHED. 
 
 Cut the remains of one or two cold roast 
 pheasants into neat joints, put them into a 
 cool place, and cover them over until they are 
 wanted. Dissolve an ounce of butter in a stew- 
 pan, mix half an ounce of flour smoothly with 
 it, and stir the mixture quickly over a, gentle 
 fire, until it is lightly coloured. Pour over it 
 half a pint of stock or water, and add a glass 
 of claret, a finely-minced onion, a bunch of 
 parsley, a small sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, and 
 a little pepper and salt. Simmer the sauce 
 gently by the side of the fire until it is thick 
 enough to coat the spoon, then strain it, and 
 put in the pieces of pheasant. Let these sim- 
 mer for a minute or two until they are quite hot, 
 but the sauce must not boil after the game is 
 added. Serve the pheasant on a hot dish with the 
 hot gravy poured over it. Time, one hour and a 
 half. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the wine and 
 cold meat. Suificient for three or four persons. 
 
 PHEASANT PIE. 
 
 Take six ounces of the cushion of veal, free it 
 carefully from skin and gristle, and mince it 
 finely. Mix with it six ounces of fat bacon also 
 finely minced, six ounces of finely-grated bread- 
 crumbs, three ounces of chopped beef-suet, and 
 one ounce of grated lean ham. Mix these in- 
 gredients thoroughly, season rather highly with 
 pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and bind the 
 forcemeat together with yolk of egg. The addi- 
 tion of three or four chopped mushrooms will be 
 an improvement. Pluck and clean a well-hung 
 pheasant, and divide it in two, lengthwise. Bone 
 the bird carefully, and fry the halves in hot fat 
 until they are lightly browned. Drain them 
 well, and put about half the forcemeat into 
 them, then put them close together in their 
 original position. Line a pie-mould, . or form a 
 case, according to the directions already given 
 (see Paste pob Raise© Pies.) Lay slices of fat 
 bacon at the bottom, and spread half of the re- 
 maining forcemeat on them. Put in the pheas- 
 ant, the remainder of the forcemeat, and a slice 
 of fat bacon over all. Lay on the lid, make a 
 hole in the centre, and bake in a brisk oven. If 
 there is any danger of the pie burning, lay a 
 paper upon it. In order to ascertain when it is 
 done enough, push a, trussing-needle through 
 the hole in the centre; if it penetrates easily, 
 the pie is sufficiently cooked. This pie, if pre- 
 ferred, may be baked in a dish, and thepheas- 
 ant may be jointed before it is put in. Half an 
 hour after it is taken out of the oven pour into 
 it, through the hole in the centre, a quarter of a 
 pint of strong gravy made from'the liver. Time 
 to bake, two hours, or more.' Probable cost, 
 6s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. To 
 make an effective table dish, save the skin and 
 plumage of the bird, keep tie head crest in its 
 proper position by means of a piece of wire, and 
 the tail' spread out. Let the pie be quite cold, 
 and bring it up to -table with tie skin and 'olum'- 
 age placed upon the top; 
 
 PHEASANT, POTTED. 
 
 'Pluck, draw, and singe a well-hung pheasant. 
 Cut off its head, and season-it inside and out 
 
PHE 
 
 528' 
 
 PHE 
 
 with salt, cayenne, and grated nutmeg. Put it 
 into a dish breast downwards, and pour over it 
 five or six ounces of dissolved butter. Cover the 
 pan with a coarse paste made of flour and water, 
 and bake in a moderate oven. When the bird 
 is sufficiently baked, take it from the oven, and 
 drain the butter from it. Let it get cold, then 
 put it into a pot breast downwards, and cover 
 with clarified butter. When the butter is set, 
 tie a double fold of paper over it, and store in 
 a cool place. If preferred, the bird can be 
 divided into joints after it is baked, and packed 
 closely into the pan. The advantage of this 
 plan will be that much less butter will be re- 
 quired to cover it than if the bird were potted 
 whole. Time to bake, about one hour. Prob- 
 able cost of the pheasants, 3s. each when in full 
 season. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 PHEASANT, POTTED (another way). 
 
 Pick the meat from a cold roast pheasant,' 
 mince it finely, and pound in a mortar to a 
 smooth paste; put the bones into a stewpan 
 with a quart of strong stock, two ounces of lean 
 ham, three shallots, two table-spoonfuls of 
 sherry, two table-spoonfuls of mushroom ket- 
 chup, a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, 
 a bay-leaf, and a dozen peppercorns. Boil this 
 down quickly until it is reduced to a glaze 
 (see GijAze), then strain through a fine hair- 
 sieve, and mix with the meat. Add five or six 
 ounces of clarified butter, and a little salt, and 
 cayenne. Pound these ingredients together, and 
 press the mixture into small potting-jars. Pour 
 over the contents clarified butter to the thickness 
 of half an inch, and store in a cool, dry place. 
 Probable cost, 4s., with pheasants at 3s. each. 
 
 PHEASANT, ROAST. 
 
 Pluck, draw, and singe a brace of pheasants, 
 wipe them with a dry Soth, truss them firmly, 
 and either lard them or tie round the breasts a 
 slice of fat bacon. Flour them well, put them 
 before a clear fire, and baste liberally. When 
 they are done enough, remove the bacon, serve 
 the birds on a hot dish, and garnish with water- 
 cress. Send good brown gravy and bread sauce 
 to table with them. If the fashion. is liked, half 
 a dozen of the best of the tail-feathers inay be 
 stuck into the bird when it is dished. Time, 
 three-quarters of an hour to roast a good-sized 
 pheasant. The drumsticks are excellent when 
 devilled. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 PHEASANT, ROAST, TO CARVE. 
 
 Pix the fork in the centre of the breast, and 
 cut slices off evenly on either side. Should 
 
 BOAST PHEASANT. 
 
 there be more guests to partake of the roast 
 pheasant than t^hese slices will satisfy, disengage 
 the legs and wings in the same manner as is 
 34 
 
 done when carving boiled fowli In taking off 
 the. wings, be careful not to cut too near the 
 neck; if you do, you will hit upon the neck- 
 bone, from which the wing must be separated. 
 Out off the merry-thought by passing the knife 
 under it towards the utek. Cut the other parts 
 as in a fowl. The breast, wings, and merry- 
 thought of a pheasant are the most highly- 
 prized; but the leg has a superior flavour. 
 
 PHEASANT, SALMI OF. 
 
 Roast a well-hung pheasant until it is a little 
 more than half-done, then take it from the fire, 
 and when it is almost cold, cut it into neat 
 joints, and carefully remove the skin and fat. 
 Put the meat aside until wanted, and place the 
 bones and trimmings in a saucepan with an 
 ounce of fresh butter, a sprig of thyme, and a 
 bay-leaf, and stir these ingredients over a slow 
 fire until they are lightly browned; then pour 
 over them half a pint of good brown sauce, and 
 a glassful of sherry. Let them simmer gently 
 for a quarter of an hour ; strain the gravy, skim 
 it carefully, add a pinch of cayenne, and the 
 juice of half a lemon, and put it back into the 
 saucepan with the pieces of game. Let them 
 heat very gradually, and on no account allow 
 them to boil. Pile them on a hot dish, pour the 
 hot sauce over them, and garnish with fried 
 sippets. If there is no brown sauce at hand, it 
 may be prepared as follows. Mince finely a 
 quarter of a pound of the lean of an unboiled 
 ham, and put it into a saucepan, with two 
 ounces of fresh butter, a shallot, a large scraped 
 carrot; two or three mushrooms (if at hand), a 
 blade of mace, a small sprig of thyme, a handful 
 of parsley, two cloves, and half a dozen pepper- 
 corns. Stir these over a slow fire until they are 
 brightly browned; then dredge a table-spoon- 
 ful of flour over them, and let it colour also. 
 Pour in gradually three-quarters of a pint of 
 water, and a glassful of sherry, and add a little 
 salt, and the bones and trimmings of the pheas- 
 ant ; let the sauce boil up, then draw the sauce- 
 pan to the side of the fire, and let it keep 
 simmering for an hour and a half. Strain the 
 gravy, and skim carefully. Put it back into 
 the saucepan with the joints of meat, a lump of 
 sugar, and a little lemon- juice, or Seville orange- 
 juice; heat slowly, and serve as above. Time: 
 twenty to thirty minutes to roast the pheasant ; 
 a quarter of an hour in the first instance, or an 
 hour and a half in the second, to simmer the 
 sauce. Probable cost. Is., exclusive of the 
 pheasant. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 PHEASANT'S LEGS, DEVILLED. 
 
 These must be prepared some hours in 
 advance. With a sharp knife take the skin off 
 the legs, and score the fiesh twice crosswise on 
 each side of the bone. Melt two ounces of 
 butter, and mix with it a dessert-spoonful of 
 salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, a pinch of cay- 
 enne, a spoonful of made mustard, and half a 
 tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy. Spread this 
 mixture on the legs, getting it in between the 
 scores as much as possible. Put a cover over 
 the legs, and leave them in a cool place for 
 some nours. When they are about to be 
 wanted, lay them on a gridiron which has been 
 rubbed over with a piece of mutton fat, and put 
 them over a gentle fire. Broil slowly, turning 
 
PHE 
 
 580 
 
 pic: 
 
 them every minute. Serve on a very hot dish, 
 with a little melted butter poured over them. 
 
 PHEASANT SOUP. 
 
 Flour a well-hung pheasant rather thickly, 
 put it down to a brisk fire, and roast it for a 
 quarter of an hour, basting it plentifully all the 
 time. Take it from the fire, -and let it get 
 nearly cold ; then remove the flesh from the 
 breast and the upper part of the wings, skin it, 
 and put it aside. Cut up the rest of the bird, 
 and bruise the bones. Scrape a small carrot 
 finely, put it into a stewpan with an ounce of 
 butter, an ounce of the lean of an unboiled ham 
 finely minced, a small sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, 
 a handful of parsley, half a blade of mace, three 
 or four, cloves, half a dozen peppercorns, a shal- 
 lot, and three or four of the outer sticks of a 
 head of celery. Stir these ingredients over a 
 gentle fire until they are brightly browned, put 
 in the flesh and the bruised body of the bird, 
 pour over them a quart of veal or beef stock, and 
 after boiling stew gently for half an hour, and 
 be careful to remove the scum as it rises. Strain 
 the soup, and rub the meat through a tamis or 
 sieve. Mix the puree with the soup, add to it a 
 small pinch of cayenne, a little salt, a glassful 
 of sherry, and the fillets of the pheasant cut into 
 thick slices; stir over the fire until it is quite 
 hot, and serve. Time, an hour and a half or 
 more. Probable cost, 5s. This soup may be 
 made with the remains of dressed pheasant. 
 
 PHEASANT, STEWED. 
 
 Pluck and draw a well-hung pheasant, and 
 truss it as a fowl is trussed for boiling. Put it 
 in a saucepan with as much hot stock or water 
 as will cover it, and with it a carrot, an 
 onion stuck with two cloves, three or four outer 
 sticks of celery, a bunch of parsley, half a dozen 
 peppercorns, and a pinch of salt. Let the liquid 
 boil, and carefully remove the scum as it rises ; 
 then draw it to the side, and let it simmer very 
 gently until the bird is done enough. Take it 
 up, and serve the pheasant with a little celery 
 sauce poured over it, and the remainder in a 
 tureen; garnish with potato croquettes. Time 
 to stew, three-quarters of an hour or more, 
 according to the size of the bird. Probable cost 
 of pheasants, 3s. each, when in full season. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 
 PHEASANT, STEWED, WITH CABBAGE. 
 
 Pick, draw, and singe two pheasants, and 
 truss them as for boiling. Divide two good- 
 sized cabbages into quarters, soak them in 
 salted water for an hour, and cut off the stalks; 
 plunge them into boiling water, and let them 
 boil for ten minutes ; then take them up, drain 
 them, press the water from them, and put them 
 into a large stewpan. Bury the pheasants in 
 the cabbage, and add half a pound of streaky 
 bacon, one pound of uncooked Bologna sausages, 
 one pound of pork sausages, a handful of pars- 
 ley, a small sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, two 
 carrots, an onion stuck with six cloves, and a 
 little pepper. Pour in as , much stock as will 
 just cover the whole, cover the stewpan closely; 
 bring the contents to a boil, and then let them 
 simmer gently for an hour and a (quarter. At 
 the end of that time, lift out the birds and the 
 meat, and keep them warm in the oven. Drain 
 
 the cabbage, season with salt and pepper, and 
 stir over a good fire until it is dry. Place it on 
 a dish, put the pheasants upon it, and place 
 round it the bacon, sausage, and carrot cut into 
 slices. Send good brown sauce. Or, if preferred, 
 a little poivrade sauce, to table in a tureen. 
 Probable cost of pheasants, 3s. each, when ia 
 full season. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. 
 
 PHEASANT, STUFFED AND ROASTED. 
 
 Pick, draw, and singe the pheasant, truss it as 
 for roasting, and fill it with a forcemeat pre- 
 pared as follows. Wash the liver of the bird, 
 and fry it in hot fat until it is done enough; 
 mince it flnely, pound it in a mortar, and mix 
 with it two table-spoonfuls of grated bread- 
 crumbs, a dessert-spoonful of finely-minced ham,, 
 three mushrooms chopped small, a minced shal- 
 lot, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, a little, 
 pepper and salt, "and half an ounce of fresh 
 l3utter. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and. 
 bind them together with the yolk of an egg. 
 Cover the breast of the bird with thin slices of 
 fat bacon tied on securely with twine, and roast 
 before a clear fire. When it is done enough, 
 serve the pheasant on a hot dish, with a sauce, 
 prepared as follows, in a tureen. Put a table- 
 spoonful of olive-oil into a stewpan with six:- 
 raw button mushrooms, a clove of garlic, two' 
 shallots, and half a tea-spoonful of capers, all ' 
 finely minced. Add four cloves, a bay-leaf, a 
 small sprig of thyme, another of parsley, and 
 half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, and stir 
 these over a gentle fire for five or six minutes. 
 Pour over these ingredients two table-spoonfuls 
 of stock and a glassful of sherry, and simmer 
 very gently for fifteen minutes. Remove th& 
 cloves, the herbs, and the garlic, pour in two. 
 spoonfuls more of stock, simmer five minutes 
 longer, and skim the sauce carefully. Eub it. 
 through a fine hair-sieve, add a dessert-spoonfur 
 of lemon- juice, heat the sauce once more, and it 
 is ready for serving. If preferred, three or four 
 tomatoes may be added to this sauce. They 
 should be simmered with the other ingredients, 
 until they can be pressed through a sieve. 
 Time to roast the pheasant, three-quarters of 
 an hour or more, according to the size; three- 
 quarters of an hour to prepare the 'sauce. Prob- 
 able cost of pheasants, 3s. each, when plentiful. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 PHEASANT, TRUSSED. 
 
 The pheasant may be trussed either with or 
 without the head. If without, care must be 
 taken to leave sufficient skin on the neck toh 
 skewer back; if the head, however, is left on, 
 it must be brought round under the wing, and 
 fixed on the point of a skewer, with the bill laid 
 straight along the breast. In this case the crop 
 must be removed through a slit, made for the- 
 purpose, in the back of the neck. Draw the bird, 
 bring the thigh cjose under the wing, pass a 
 skewer through the pinion, the body, and tha 
 leg, and skewer and tife the legs firmly down. 
 
 PICCALILLI. 
 
 Piccalilli may be made of almost all kinds: 
 of vegetables that are used for pickling — 
 cauliflowers, white cabbages, French ■ beans,, 
 capsicums, gherkins, large and small onions, 
 cucumbers, radish pods, green tomatoes, andl 
 
PIC 
 
 631 
 
 PIC 
 
 nasturtiums. Take equal quantities of each 
 kind. Prepare them by slicing the large sorts, 
 shredding the cabbage, and pulling the cauli- 
 flower into small pieces. Put them into a large 
 pan with boiling brine sufficiently strong to 
 bear an egg. Let them simmer for one minute, 
 then drain the liquid from them, spread them 
 out on large dishes, and place them in the sun 
 until they are perfectly dry. Prepare as much 
 pickle as will entirely cover the vegetables, in 
 the following proportions. Boil two quarts of 
 good vinegar with two ounces of bruised ginger, 
 one ounce of whole white pepper, one ounce of 
 allspice, two ounces of curry-powder, and two 
 ounces of shallots. Boil these for five minutes, 
 then mix two ounces of best mustard smoothly 
 with a little boiling vinegar, and stir it into 
 the rest of the vinegar, which must not boil 
 after the mustard is added. Let the first heat 
 go off, then pour the vinegar over the vege- 
 tables, and when they are quite cold store them 
 in jars, and intermix the spices amongst them. 
 Be careful that the vegetables are covered with 
 the vinegar, and cover the jar with bladder to 
 exclude the air. This pickle must be examined 
 at intervals, and as the vegetables absorb the 
 vinegar, fresh cold vinegar must be added and 
 well stirred in. Additions of various vege- 
 tables may be made as they come into season; 
 but it should be remembered that they must be 
 scalded in brine and dried, then scalded in hot 
 vinegar, and allowed to grow cold, before they 
 are put to the rest of the pickle, or they will not 
 keep. 
 
 PICKLE. 
 
 When meat is to be salted, it should either 
 be put into the pickle while it is warm after 
 killing, or be allowed to hang a day or two in 
 summer, and five or six days in winter, to 
 become tender. Before it is put into the brine 
 the kernels and pipes should be removed, and 
 the meat wiped well with a dry cloth. It is an 
 excellent plan to rub a little dried and warmed 
 salt into the meat, and leave it until the next 
 day, then drain it well from the slime and blood 
 which will have flowed from it, and put it into 
 the brine, which ought to cover it entirely. 
 The meat should be turned and rubbed every 
 day. Pickle for meat may be used again and 
 again if it is boiled and skimmed occasionally, 
 a little fresh salt being added to it. The tub 
 which contains it should be kept covered, either 
 with a lid or a thick cloth, and a cool place 
 should be chosen for it to stand in. Meat is 
 more tender when cured with bay salt than with 
 common salt : the former is the more expensive 
 of the two. Sugar makes the meat mellow; 
 saltpetre colours it, but tends to make it hard, 
 dry, and indigestible. Two or three recipes for 
 pickles are here given, all of which will be found 
 excellent. They are suitable for beef, hams, 
 and tongues. 
 
 PICKLE FOR BEEF, PORK, AND TONGUES. 
 
 Put two gallons of cold water into a large 
 stewpan with three pounds of bay salt, half a 
 pound of good moist sugar, and two ounces of 
 saltpetre. Bring it to a boil, skim carefully, 
 and let it boil for twenty minutes. Turn it 
 into a deep pan, and when it is quite cold it is 
 ready for the meat. Meat may be kept in this 
 
 pickle for three weeks in mild weather, though' 
 it may be used in five or six days. The liquid 
 in which it is boiled will not be found too salt 
 to use for soup. The pickle may be used re- 
 peatedly. Add one pound of common salt, or 
 half a pound of bay salt, and a pint of water 
 every time the pickle is boiled. 
 
 PICKLE FOR FISH. 
 
 Mix toorether a quart of vinegar, an ounce of 
 salt, half a table-spoonful of scraped horse- 
 radish, half a dozen cloves, the same of allspice, 
 two bay-leaves, half a tea-spoonful of celery- 
 seed, and a sprinkling of cayenne and whole 
 black pepper. Bring to a boil. Wash any kind 
 of fish as for boiling, and trim neatly. Cut it 
 up, and pack it in a stone jar ; pour enough of 
 the pickle over to cover it, tie the jar down, and 
 cook it in a very slow oven until done. Let it 
 remain in a cool place to get cold before re- 
 moving the cover. This is excellent for salads, 
 or may be sent to table with any suitable cold 
 sauce. 
 
 PICKLE FOR MEAT. 
 
 Put two gallons of spring water into a large 
 pan with five pounds of common salt, two 
 pounds of moist sugar, and two ounces of salt- 
 petre. Boil for twenty minutes, and skim 
 carefully. A large round of beef would require 
 to lie in this pickle for a fortnight before it, is 
 done. The • meat will be more mellow if bay 
 salt is used. Three pounds of bay salt may be 
 substituted for common salt. Add one pound of 
 common salt, or half a pound of bay salt, and a 
 pint of water every time the pickle is boiled. 
 
 PICKLE FOR TONGUES. 
 
 Rub a handful of salt and another of moist 
 sugar over the tongues, and lay them on a dish 
 in a cool place. Turn and rub them every day 
 for four days. On the fourth day, put a quart 
 of water and a quart of porter into a saucepan 
 with four ounces of saltpetre, two pounds of 
 bay salt, and two pounds of common salt. 
 Bring the liquid to a boil, and skim thoroughly. 
 Put the tongues in a deep pan, and pour the 
 pickle over them while it is hot, and see that 
 they are perfectly covered with it. At the end 
 of eight'days they will be fit for use. The pickle 
 should remain on the fire until it boils. 
 
 PICKLE— ONE THAT WILL KEEP TWO YEARS 
 OR MORE. 
 
 Put three gallons of cold spring water into a 
 large pan or copper, and with it two pounds of 
 bay salt, six pounds of common salt, two pounds 
 of moist sugar, and three ounces of saltpetre. 
 Let the pickle boil for half an hour, and skim 
 carefully, then pour it into a deep earthen pan 
 with a closely-fitting lid. When cold, it is 
 ready for the meat. A small ham may lie in 
 this pickle two weeks, a large one three weeks, 
 a tongue ten or twelve days, and beef, according 
 to its size and the degree of saltness desired. 
 When the pickle has been used two or three 
 times boil it up and skim carefully : this opera- 
 tion should be occasionally repeated. The pickle 
 will require to be boiled oftener in hot weather 
 than in cold. Every time it is boiled add to it 
 two pounds of common salt, two pints of water, 
 two ounces of sugar, and half an ounce of 
 saltpetre. 
 
PIC 
 
 PIC 
 
 PICKLES. 
 
 This is the name given to vegetables or fruit 
 preserved in vinegar. They are used as accom- 
 paniments to cold meat, to garnish dishes, and 
 to flavour hashes and sauces. It Is generally 
 understood that they can he bought cheaper 
 than they can be made. Nevertheless, there is 
 always a certain amount of satisfaction in using 
 home-ijiade preparations, as by this means the 
 quality of the article can be assured beyond all 
 question, and many ladies take great pride iu 
 their s' ire of home-made pickles. In making 
 pickles, :!are must be taken that the vegetables 
 and fruit used for the purpose are procured at 
 the right season, that they are perfectly sound, 
 not over-ripe, and have been gathered on a dry 
 day. They should be trimmed and wiped before 
 they are used, and not washed, unless they are 
 afterwards to be partially boiled or soaked. 
 The vinegar must be of the best quality. White 
 wine vinegar is generally recommended, for the 
 sake of the appearance, but it is not so whole- 
 some as the best brown vinegar. Metal utensils 
 should never be used in making pickles, as the 
 vinegar acting upon the metal produces a 
 poison. Enamelled or stone vessels and wooden 
 spoons should therefore be used; and the best 
 method that can be adopted is to put the vine- 
 gar into a stone jar, and heat it on a stove or 
 hot hearth. Pickles should be kept in glass 
 bottles, or unsflazed earthfen jars, and should be 
 closely corked, and the corks sealed down, or 
 covered with wet bladder. They should be 
 stored in a dry place. As the vinegar becomes 
 absorbed, more should be ■added, as it is im- 
 portant that the vegetables should be covered 
 at least an inch above the surface with vinegar. 
 If any of the vinegar is left after the pickle is 
 used, it should be boiled up with fresh spices, 
 and bottled for flavouring sauces, etc. It 
 should be remembered that to boil vinegar is to 
 decrease its strength. If it is wished to hasten 
 the preparation of the pickles, partially boil the 
 vegetables in brine, and let them cool and get 
 quite dry before the vinegar is poured over them. 
 
 PICKLES, BEST TIMES FOR MAKING. 
 
 The following list gives the best times for 
 making pickles : — 
 
 Artichokes 
 Cabbage, Ked 
 
 Cabbage, White . 
 
 Capsicums, Eed, Yel- 
 low, AND Gbeen 
 Caitliplowees 
 Chillies 
 
 Cucumbers 
 
 Feench Beans 
 Gaelic . 
 
 Gheekins 
 
 Hoese-eadish 
 
 Jeeusalem Aetichokes 
 Melons (for Mangoes) 
 
 July and August. 
 
 August or after early 
 frost. 
 
 September and Octo- 
 ber. 
 
 The end of July and 
 August. 
 
 July and August. 
 
 The end of July and 
 
 August. 
 ■The middle of July and 
 August. 
 
 July. 
 
 Midsummer to Michael- 
 mas. 
 
 The middle of July and 
 August. 
 
 November and Decem- 
 ber. 
 
 July and August. 
 
 The end of July and 
 August. 
 
 MusHEOOMS (for pick- 
 ling and ketchup) . September. 
 Nastubtiums . . The middle of July. 
 Onions . . . The middle of July and 
 
 August. 
 Eadish Pods . . July. 
 Shallots . . . Midsummer to MichaelJ 
 
 mas. 
 Tomatoes . . . End of July and 
 
 August. 
 Walnuts . . . From the middle of 
 
 July to the middle of 
 
 August. 
 PICKLES, MIXED. 
 
 Begin making this pickle about the middle 
 of May. Take a large earthen jar which will 
 hold two gallons. Put into it a gallon of the 
 best brown vinegar, and add four ounces of 
 bruised ginger and four ounces of mustard-seed. 
 Put into a bowl a quarter of a pound of salt, one 
 ounce of ground black pepper, a quarter of an 
 ounce of V cayenne, two blades of mace finely 
 powdered,', a quarter of a pound of unmixed 
 mustard, and two ounces of curry-powder. 
 Make these ingredients into a paste by mixing 
 them smoothly with a little cold vinegar, add 
 them to the vinegar in the jar, and mix thor- 
 oughly. Cover the jar very closely, keep it in 
 a warm place, and stir it with a wooden spoon 
 every day for a month. Gather different vege- 
 tables as they come into season, prepare them 
 as for piccalilli (see Piccalilli), see that they are 
 perfectly dry, and put them into the pickle. 
 When no further additions are to be made, put 
 the pickle into earthen jars, cover closely, tie 
 down with moistened bladder, and store in a 
 dry place. As the vegetables absorb the liquid, 
 add fresh vinegar, and stir the pickle with a 
 wooden spoon. Before it is used this pickle 
 must be kept twelve months from the time 
 when it began to be made. 
 
 PICKLES, SUMMER, FOR PRESENT USE. 
 
 Cut equal quantities of young onions, sour 
 apples, and fresh cucumbers into thin slices. 
 With these fill an unglazed earthen jar which 
 will hold a quart of liquid. Shake in with the 
 vegetables a dessert-spoonful of salt and a tea- 
 spoonful and a half of cayenne. Pour in four 
 table-spoonfuls of sherry and four table-spoon^ 
 fuls of soy, and as much vinegar as the jar will 
 hold, and cover closely until wanted. If it is 
 wished to make this pickle in the 'autumn or 
 winter, finely-minced celery may be substituted 
 for the cucumbers. The pickle can be used the 
 day it is made. 
 
 PICKLES, SWEET AMERICAN. 
 
 Take seven pounds of damsons, four pounds 
 of pounded loaf sugar, an ounce of stick cinna- 
 mon, an ounce of cloves, and a pint of vinegar. 
 Lay the fruit and the other dry ingredients, in 
 layers, in a deep stone jar, and pour the vinegar 
 over all. Put the jar into a large pan of boil- 
 ing water, and keep boiling until the sugar is 
 thoroughly dissolved and the juice of the fruit 
 extracted, then put the jar in a cool place. 
 The next day drain off the syrup, boil it, and 
 pour it over the fruit : repeat this process six or 
 seven successive days until the skin, looks hard 
 and the plums clear. Let the preparation stand 
 a week, then take the plums out one by one. 
 
PIC 
 
 533 
 
 P(E 
 
 place them in jars, "boil the syrup, and fill up 
 the jars with it. When cold, put brandy-papers 
 ever, and tie a bladder on the top to keep the 
 air out, or the pickles will lose their colour. 
 Pears, apples, peaches, and cherries can all be 
 pickled in' this way, and will be found delicious. 
 A little cochineal in a bag dropped in the jar 
 will improve the colour greatly. If stored in a 
 dry place, they will keep six or seven years. 
 Time, three weeks. Cost varies nearly every 
 year. 
 
 PICKLES, TO GREEN. 
 
 Let them remain in hot vinegar until they 
 become green, and keep them closely covered 
 down, or the evaporation of the steam may in- 
 jure the colour. To make pickles crisp, dissolve 
 a very small piece of alum in the vinegar. A 
 piece the size of a bean will be sufficient for a 
 gallon of vinegar. 
 
 PIEDMONT CAKE. 
 
 Take four ounces of sweet almonds and eight 
 bitter ones. Blanch them, and pound them in 
 a mortar, putting in half a tearspoonful of 
 orange-flower water every now and then to pre- 
 vent them oiling. "When they are soft and 
 smooth, soak them in half a pint of cream for 
 three-quarters of an hour, then pass the cream 
 through a jelly-bag, and rub the almond-paste 
 well with the back of a wooden spoon to 
 squeeze as much of it into the liquid as possi- 
 ble. Keep the flavoured cream in a cool place 
 until wanted for use. Prepare two ounces of 
 candied peel and four ounces of pistachio 
 kernels, by cutting the peel into small pieces, 
 and blanching the pistachios and cutting them 
 into quarters; then put both aside until re- 
 quired. Beat three-quarters of a pound of 
 butter to a cream. Add gradually four ounces 
 of powdered sugar, half a salt-spoonful of salt, 
 a quarter of a pound of dried flour, and the 
 well-beaten yolks of two eggs; and when these 
 are thoroughly mixed, work in gradually three- 
 quarters of a pound more of flour, two more 
 egg yolks, and four whole eggs. Beat the 
 paste with a wooden spoon. Dissolve three- 
 quarters of a pound of German yeast in a little 
 lukewarm water, and knead it into the batter 
 with the almond-flavoured cream. Butter a 
 large mould, pour in the mixture, and put the 
 pistachios and candied peel evenly round the 
 inside. When the cake, has sufficiently risen, 
 bake in a moderate oven until it is lightly 
 browned. When it is done enough (which may 
 be ascertained by sticking a skewer into the 
 centre : if it can be drawn out dry, the cake is 
 ready), turn it out of the mould. 
 
 PIES, CHRISTMAS. 
 
 Presents of game are often made at Christ- 
 mas time by friends in the country to those in 
 London and large towns, and this game will be 
 found to go much further if made into a pie 
 than when roasted or boiled. Partridges, pheas- 
 ants, woodcock, grouse, and snipes may be thus 
 used. If the birds are small, they may be kept 
 whole; if large, the legs and wings should be 
 cut off, and the breasts larded with bacon. 
 Woodcock and snipes should not be drawn, as 
 the intestines, which should be carefully 
 cleaned, are considered a great delicacy. Make 
 
 and put among the pieces of meat some 
 good forcemeat balls. They may be made 
 of the livers of the birds pounded with an 
 equal quantity of bacon, some sweet herbs, 
 bread-crumbs, and three or four chopped 
 truffles. Season rather highly. Line the 
 edges of a pie-dish with good crust. , Put a beef 
 steak at the bottom of the dish, then the birds 
 with the forcemeat balls, place pieces of butter 
 here and there, and strew over the whole three 
 or four truffles and some fresh mushrooms, both 
 chopped. If the steak is omitted, slices of fat 
 bacon may be laid under and above /lie meat. 
 Pour a little stock over, cover the dj Ji with a 
 good crust, brush the pie over with tje yolk of 
 a beaten egg, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 When the pie is' to be eaten hot, make some 
 gravy of a little good melted butter, with the 
 juice of a lemon and a little claret added. 
 This will be an improvement, and will not inter- 
 fere with the flavour of the game. If it is to 
 be eaten cold, lift off the lid just before serving,i 
 and place some cubes of savoury aspic jelly on 
 the top. The time to bake will depend on the size 
 of the pie, but it should not be baked too much. 
 
 PIES, COMMON CRIJST FOR RAISED. 
 
 {See CEtrST, Common-, etc.) ' 
 
 PIES, DRIPPING CRUST FOR KITCHEN. 
 
 (See Cbxjst, Dripping.) 
 
 PIES, MEAT, JELLY FOR. 
 
 Break up two pounds of the knuckle of veal, 
 and put it into a stewpan with the knuckle- 
 bone of a ham, or, failing this, half a pound of 
 raw lean ham. Pour over this three pints of 
 cold water, and add a carrot, an onion, half a 
 bay-leaf, three or four sticks of celery,, a hand- 
 ful of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, a blade 
 of mace, two cloves, a roll of lemon-rind, a 
 tea-spoonful of salt, a pinch of cayenne, a 
 lump of sugar, and six peppercorns. Cover the 
 stev.pan, and bring the contents slowly to a 
 boil. Remove the scum as it rises, draw the 
 pan to the side, and simmer gently, but con- 
 tinuously, for five hours. Strain the liquid 
 through a jelly-bag, and let it stand until it is 
 cold and stiff. Bemove the fat, by first scrap- 
 ing it off with a spoon, and afterwards pouring 
 a little hot water over the surface, draining it 
 off immediately, and then wiping off the 
 moisture with a dry napkin. If the jelly has 
 been gently boiled it should not need to be 
 clarified. If, however, it is not quite clear 
 .ind bright, dissolve it over a gentle flre, and 
 when it is melted, without being hot, mix with 
 it the white of an egg which has been well 
 whisked, with half a tea-cupful of water, and 
 add the crushed shell of the egg, a dessert- 
 spoonful of tarragon vinegar, and a glassful of 
 sherry. Put the pan on the fire, and stir it 
 briskly until it begins to boil ; then draw it to 
 the side, put on the cover, and let it simmer, 
 without being touched, for a quarter of an hour. 
 Strain it again through a jelly-bag, and when 
 cold it is ready for use. The bones, necks, and 
 feet of fowls, or the shank-bones of a leg of 
 mutton, if boiled down carefully with an ox- 
 heel or a calf's foot, will make good meat jelly. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 8d. Sufficient for three 
 pints of jelly. 
 
PIE 
 
 531 
 
 PIG 
 
 PIES, MEAT, JELLY FOR (economical and quickly 
 made). 
 Put into a cup an ounce of gelatine with as 
 much cold water as will cover it, and let it soak 
 for half an hour. Put a pint and a half of good 
 stock, quite free from fat, into a stewpan, with 
 a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, five or six shal- 
 lots, half a blade of mace, six cloves, an onion, 
 and a little pepper and salt. Bring the stock 
 gently to the boil; cool it, stir the gelatine 
 into it, and continue stirring until it is dis- 
 solved. Let the stock cool; mix with it the 
 whites and crushed shells of two eggs which 
 have been beaten up with a cupful of cold 
 water. Stir them into the stock, whisk all to- 
 gether until the liquid is on the point of boil- 
 ing, then draw the saucepan to the side of the 
 fire, and let the contents simmer gently for 
 ten minutes. Pass the gravy through a jelly- 
 bag, and it will be fit for use. If the stock is 
 already nicely flavoured, the flavouring ingre- 
 dients need not be added. A dessert-spoonful 
 of tarragon vinegar and half a glassful of 
 sherry may be stirred in, with the whites of 
 the eggs, if approved. The jelly will become 
 stiff more quickly if it is poured out on a. large 
 dish. Time, one hour to make. Probable cost, 
 exclusive of stock, 1b. Sufficient for a quart of 
 jelly. 
 
 PIES, PASTE FOR. 
 
 (See Paste fob Common Pies, Paste eob 
 Eaisbd Pies, etc.) 
 
 pig, diagram of, for ba6on. 
 
 (See the illustration accompanying the article 
 Bacon, To Cut up a Pig for.) 
 
 PIG, ROAST, FORCEMEAT FOR. 
 
 (•See Fobceheat fob Roast Pig.) 
 
 PIG'S CHEEK, BOILED. ^ 
 
 If the cheek has been dried, soak it for three 
 or four hours; if it has been taken fresh from 
 the pickle it will require only to be washed in 
 two or three waters. Put it into a saucepan, 
 cover with ' cold water, bring the water to a 
 boil, and let is simmer gently until the meat is' 
 tender. Draw off the rind, and cover the outside 
 of the cheek with bread-raspings. Put the cheek 
 before the fire for five of six minutes, that the 
 raspings may set. A bag of ra-spings may be 
 bought at the baker's, a pint for 2d., or they 
 may be made of pieces of stale bread, which 
 lave been dried slowly in a cool oven until they 
 are brown and hard, and then crushed to 
 powder. Time to boil the cheek, two hours and 
 a half from the time of boiling, if the cheek is 
 fresh; three hours if it has been dried. Prob- 
 able cost, 8d. per pound. 
 
 PIG'S CHEEK, BOILED, AND SERVED WITH 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 Take half a pig's head, and after removing the 
 brains and tongue, put it into a deep pan. Eub 
 it well with half a pound of common salt, and let 
 it lie for three or four days, turning and bast- 
 ing twice a day. When it is to be cooked, 
 wash it, and put it into a stewpan, with four 
 quarts of cold water ; bring it to a boil, skim it 
 well, and put with it a few outer sticks of 
 celery, one or two sliced onions, and a dozen 
 peppercorns. Let it simmer until it is done 
 
 enough, then drain it from the liquid, serve on 
 a hot dish, and send potatoes and boiled greens 
 to table with it. Some cooks like the vege- 
 tables boiled with the cheek, and served round 
 it. The liquid in which it has been boiled may 
 be converted into excellent pea-soup. Time to 
 boil the cheek, two hours and a half. Prob- 
 able cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for six or 
 eight persons. 
 
 PIG'S CHEEK, M. SOYER'S MODE OF COOKING. 
 
 Take a nicely-pickled pig's cheek. Let it boil 
 gently until it is quite tender. Tie half a pint 
 of good split peas loosely in a cloth, put them 
 into boiling water, and boil them for an hour ; 
 then take them out, pass them through a hair 
 sieve, and mix with the pulp a little pepper and 
 salt, an ounce of butter, and four well-beaten 
 eggs. Stir the mixture over the fire until the 
 eggs begin to set, then spread it upon the cheek, 
 brush over with beaten egg, sprinkle bread 
 raspings on it, put it in the oven a few minutes, 
 and serve. Time, two hours and a half to boil 
 the cheek. Probable cost of cheek, 8d. per 
 pound. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. 
 
 PIG'S CHEEK, PICKLED. 
 
 Split open a pig's. head, take out the brains, 
 cut out the snout, and chop off the upper bone, 
 to make the cheeks a good shape. Bub the 
 cheeks with salt, and let them lie for two or 
 three days. Boil a handful of common salt, 
 half a pound of bay salt, half an ounce of salt- 
 petre, four ounces of moist sugar, and a 
 pennyworth of cochineal in a pint of strong 
 ale for a quarter of an hour. Pour the liquid, 
 when cold, over the cheeks, and let them re- 
 main in it for a fortnight, turning and basting 
 every day; then hang them in smoke for a 
 week, when they will be ready for use. Prob- 
 able cost of cheeks, 8d. per pound. Sufficient, 
 one cheek for eight or ten persons. 
 
 PIG'S CHEEK, PICKLED (another way). 
 
 Wash a couple of pig's cheeks, strew a hand- 
 ful of salt over them, and leave them for 
 twenty-four hours. Drain them, and dry them 
 well with a soft cloth. Powder and mix the 
 following ingredients. A quarter of a pound of 
 common salt, a quarter of a pound of moist 
 sugar, one ounce of saltpetre, and half an ounce 
 of gfround pepper. Dry lihiB mixture thor- 
 oughly before the fire, rub it well into the 
 cheeks, and turn and rub them every day for 
 four weeks. They may either be boiled straight 
 from the pickle or hung to dry in a cool placq ; 
 if they are boiled at once they require only to 
 be well washed before being cooked ; if they are 
 dried they must be soaked. When pigs' cheeks 
 are cured and dried like bacon they are called 
 Bath chaps. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. 
 Sufficient for eight or nine persons. 
 
 PIG'S CHEEKS, POTTED. 
 
 Take a large pig's head, split it open, take 
 out the brains, and cut off the ears. Let it 
 soak in cold water for twenty-four hours, then 
 put the cheek, with the tongue, into a sauce- 
 pan, cover with cold water, bring slowly to the 
 boil, and let the meat simmer gently until it is 
 so tender that the bones can be easily drawn 
 out. Draw off the skin, if possible in one 
 piece, and while the meat is still hot mince it 
 
PIG 
 
 635 
 
 PIG 
 
 quickly, and season rather highly with pepper, 
 salt, and grated nutmeg. Lay half the skin 
 at the bottom of a pan- or bowl, put in the 
 mince, and cover with the remainder of the akin. 
 Place upon it a plate with a weight on top, and 
 leave it until the meat is quite cold. It will turn 
 out in a shape, and should be cut in thin slices, 
 and eaten with vinegar and mustard. It may 
 be kept in a pickle, made of the liquid in which 
 it waa stewed, boiled with a little salt and 
 vinegar. Time to boil the cheeks, two hours 
 and a half to three hours. Probable cost of 
 pig's head, 6d. or 8d. per pound. Sufficient for 
 a standing breakfast dish. 
 
 PIG'S EARS. 
 
 Pig's ears are generally dressed together with 
 the feet. They may, however, be stuffed and 
 stewed as follows. Bone an anchovy, and pound 
 it to a paste. Mix with it six ounces of grated 
 bread-crumbs, two ounces of minced veal, four 
 ounces of shredded suet, a tea-spoonful of shred- 
 ded parsley, and two or three sage-leaves. Season 
 this forcemeat with salt and cayenne, and bind 
 it together with the yolks of two eggs. Take 
 two or four ears which have been already soaked 
 for Bome hours and partially boiled. Raise the 
 ■skin of the upper side, and fill them with the 
 stuffing. JVy them in hot fat till they are 
 brightly browned, drain them well, and stew 
 them gently in three-quarters of a pint of very 
 rich brown gravy, nicely flavoured and highly 
 seasoned. ■ Serve the ears on a hot dish, with 
 the gravy strained and poured round them. If 
 liked, a puree of peas can be sent to table with 
 them. Time to stew, half an hour. Probable 
 cost, uncertain, pig's ears being generally sold 
 with the head. Sufficient for two or three 
 persons. 
 
 PIG'S FEET (k la St. Menehould). 
 
 Take two large pig's feet which have been 
 salted, or not, as most convenient. Cleanse 
 them perfectly, split them in halves, and bind 
 them securely with tape to keep them in their 
 proper position. Put them into a saucepan, 
 with a quart of broth or water, and with them 
 a little pepper — and salt, if required — a carrot, 
 an onion, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, 
 a bay-leaf, two cloves, and two or three outer 
 sticks of celery. Let them simmer gently for 
 several hours until quite tender. Drain them, 
 draw out the large bone, and press the feet 
 between two dishes, until they are cold and 
 stiff. When wanted for use, dip them into 
 clarified butter, cover thickly with highly-sea- 
 soned bread-crumbs, and broil over a clear fire 
 until they are lightly browned all over. Turn 
 them twice during the operation. Serve on a 
 hot dish, with piquant sauce, or Robert sauce, 
 or, if preferred, with a puree of green peas in 
 the centre of the dish. Time to broil, till hot 
 through. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 PIG'S FEET AND EARS. 
 
 Clean and soak the feet and ears, and boil 
 them in water until they are tender. Split the 
 feet in halves, draw out the bones, and press 
 them between two dishes until they are cold 
 and stiff. Cut the ears into strips, half an 
 inch wide, and set them also aside. When they 
 are to be served, dissolve two ounces of fresh 
 
 butter, and mix smoothly with it a tea-spoon- 
 ful of flour. Slice two good-sized onions, and 
 stew them in the mixture until they are tender; 
 put in the ears, and when they are hot, stir in 
 with them a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard. 
 Turn the whole upon a hot dish, and keep it in 
 a warm place. Dip the feet into clarified but- 
 ter and seasoned bread-crumbs, and broil over 
 a clear fire. Put them on the dish, with the 
 ears, etc., and serve as hot as possible. Time 
 to boil, until tender; to broil, ten minutes. 
 Sufficient for four or live persons. 
 
 PIG'S FEET AND EARS, FRICASSEED. 
 
 Take the feet and ears of a pig, which, if not 
 fresh, have been pickled with salt without any 
 vinegar. Cleanse and wash them, then cut 
 them into neat pieces, half an inch wide, and 
 boil them in a pint of milk until they are quite 
 tender. Drain and dry them well, and put 
 them into a stewpan, with half a pint of veal 
 stock, a little salt and cayenne, a blade of 
 mace, a strip of lemon-rind, and a sliced onion. 
 Simmer for a quarter of an hour, then add a 
 piece of butter, the size of a walnut, rolled 
 thickly in flour, and three table-spoonfuls of 
 cream. Stir the liquid over a slow fire until 
 it is smooth and thick, and serve the meat on a 
 hot dish, with the sauce poured round it ; gar- 
 nish with sliced lemon. Pig's feet and ears 
 should be gently boiled. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. 
 
 PIG'S FEET AND EARS, FRIED IN BATTER. 
 
 Wash and cleanse the feet and ears of a fully- 
 grown pig, and let them lie in salt for four or 
 five days. The day before they are to be 
 served, boil them gently in a quart of water, 
 with an onion, a carrot, a bunch of savoury 
 herbs, a stick of celery, and a little pepper and 
 salt. When they are done enough, take them 
 up, drain them, cut the feet in two, length- 
 wise, draw out the large bone, and press them, 
 with the ears, between two dishes, until they 
 are stiff and cold. Two hours before they are 
 wanted, make a batter, by mixing five ounces 
 of flour and a pinch of salt smoothly with a gill 
 of water. Beat the yolks of two eggs to . a 
 paste, with two table-spoonfuls of oil; stir this 
 into the flour, and put the mixture aside. 
 Twenty minutes before it is to be used, add the 
 whisked whites of the eggs, and a little more 
 water if the batter is too thick. Beat it well; 
 dip into it the pig's feet and ears, and fry in 
 hot fat until they are equally and lightly 
 browned. Drain them, and serve on a hot nap- 
 kin. If liked, a gravy, made of two or three 
 table-spoonfuls of the liquid in which they were 
 boiled, mixed with a little vinegar, may be sent 
 to table with them. Time : the feet and ears 
 must be boiled till tender; twenty minutes to 
 fry them. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 PIG'S FEET AND EARS, IN JELLY. 
 
 Cleanse and scrape the feet and ears, and let 
 them soak in cold water for two or three hours. 
 Put them into a stewpan, with as much water 
 as will barely cover them, and simmer gently 
 until they are quite tender. Take them up, 
 and draw out all the bones. Put the meat back 
 into the liquid, with six sage-leaves, chopped 
 small, a table - spoonful of finely - shredded 
 
PIG 
 
 536 
 
 PIG 
 
 parsley, and a seasoning of salt, cayenne, and 
 powdered mace, and simmer again until the 
 flavour is drawn out of the herbs and the liquid 
 is reduced to a jelly. Pour the whole into a 
 shape, and serve cold. Time, the pig's feet and 
 ears mu.=t be long and gently boiled till they 
 are tender. Sufficient for a breakfast or 
 luncheon dish. 
 
 PIG'S FEET, BOILED (au Naturel). 
 
 Scald and scrape the feet of a fully-grown 
 porker, and carefully remove the covering of the 
 toes. Split them in halves, lengthwise, and 
 bind them securely with tape in their original 
 Ijositiou. Put them into a stewpan, with a 
 quart of stock or water, a bunch of parsley, a. 
 sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, two onions, two 
 carrots, a stick of celery, and a little salt and 
 cayenne. Let them simmer gently until they 
 are tender. Drain them, and draw out the large 
 bones. Put the feet back into the liquid, and 
 let them remain in it until cold. After they 
 have been boiled as above directed, they may be 
 either served hot, with peas pudding, and 
 turnip-tops, broiled, fried, or eaten cold with 
 vinegar. Time to simmer, three hours from 
 the time the gravy reaches the boiling point. 
 Sufficient for two persons. 
 
 PIC'S FEET, DEVILLED. 
 
 Boil, until the bones may be drawn from 
 them, some feet that have been salted. Then 
 press the halves together, and leave until cold. 
 For a couple of feeit, put in a saucepan a gill of 
 the liquor in which they were boiled, a table- 
 spoonful of chutney, the same of mushroom 
 ketchup, a tea-spoonful of dry mustard, a finely 
 minced onion, and salt to taste. When this 
 boils up stir in an ounce of butter, and pour 
 the whole over the feet laid flat in a stewpan. 
 Put the lid on, and leave for a quarter of an 
 hour. Strain the sauce over the feet and serve. 
 
 PIG'S FEET, SOUP OF. 
 
 Take two sets of pigs' feet and pigs' ears, 
 cleanse them thoroughly, and jput them into a 
 stewpan, with three quarts of water, a little 
 pepper and salt, a bunch of savoury herbs, a 
 carrot, two onions, and half a head of celery. 
 Remove the scum as it rises, and simmer the 
 liquid gently for four hours. Pour it out, 
 strain it, cut the meat into dice, lay these aside, 
 and leave the soup to get cold. The next morn- 
 ing lift off the cake of fat which will have 
 settled on the top, pour off the liquid, free 
 from sediment, return it to the saucepan, sea- 
 son rather highly with salt, cayenne, and white 
 pepper, and thicken with flour and butter. Let 
 the soup boil gently for some minutes. Put 
 the pieces of meat into a saucepan, with as 
 much gravy as will cover them ; let them get 
 quite hot, then put them with the soup. Sim- 
 mer all together for a few minutes, and serve. 
 Sufficient for eight or ten persons. 
 
 PIG'S FEET, SOUSED. 
 
 Take four young and tender pig's feet. 
 Scald and scrape them, and put them, into a 
 stewpan, with as much lukewarm water as will 
 cover them. Bring the liquor to a boil, and 
 skim carefully, then simmer the feet gently 
 until all the bones can be taken out. Lift 
 them out, put them into a deep pan, and 
 
 sprinkle salt over them. As the liquid cools, 
 remove the fat from the top of it; and whea 
 it is quite clear, boil a. quart of it with the 
 same quantity of vinegar, a dessert-spoonful of 
 whole pepper, and a blade of mace. Let it boil 
 ten minutes, and pour it boiling hot over the 
 feet. Cover the jar closely. If liked, the head 
 can be soused with the feet. The meat may be 
 eaten cold from the vinegar, or fried and 
 browned, and served hot. Time to boil the 
 feet, three hours. Sufficient for a breakfast or 
 luncheon dish, 
 
 PIG'S FRY. 
 
 A pig's fry, which is composed of the heart, 
 liver, lights, and sweetbread, should be used 
 when quite fresh. Wash it well, and simmer 
 it in a little salt and water for half an hour. 
 Dry it, and cut it into slices the third of an 
 inch thick. Dredge these with flour, and 
 season with a little salt, pepper, cayenne, and 
 powdered sage. Fry them in hot fat until they 
 are lightly browned. If liked, a slice of bacon, 
 finely minced, and a chopped onion, ijiay be 
 fried with them. Serve the fry neatly arranged 
 on a hot dish, with a shallot, finely minced, 
 sprinkled over it, or with the following sauce 
 poured round it. Mince two large onions and 
 one large apple, and fry them in melted butter 
 until they are quite soft. Dredge a table- 
 spoonful of flour over them, and add a pinch 
 of cayenne, a large pinch of satlt, a tea-spoonful 
 of moist sugar, and a tea-spoonful of made 
 mustard. Pour over these a table-spoonful of 
 vinegar, and stir the sauce over a gentle fire for 
 four minutes. Add two table-spoonfuls of 
 claret, and serve. Time to fry the slices, about 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 PIG'S FRY (another way). 
 
 Procure a fresh pig's fry. Wash it well,, and 
 dry it, then cut it into slices the third of an 
 inch in thickness. Butter a baking-dish, cover 
 the bottom with a layer of the lean slices, and 
 sprinkle over them a little powdered sage, 
 minced onion, pepper, and salt. Place sliced 
 potatoes on these, and then a layer of fat 
 slices, with a little more seasoning, and sliced 
 potatoes over the whole. Fill the dish with 
 boiling stock or water, mixed smoothly with a 
 small portion of flour, and bake in a moderate 
 oven. Serve very hot. Time to bake, two 
 hours and a half. . Probable cost, Sd. per pound. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 PIG'S HEAD AND FEET, IN BRAWN. 
 
 Take the head and feet of a fully-grown, 
 porker, and cleanse them thoroughly. Prepare 
 them, by splitting open the head, cutting off 
 the ears and snout, removing the brains and 
 eyes, scraping the feet, and, if necessary, singe- 
 ing the coverings of the toes until they are 
 loose, and can be taken off; then sprinkle salt 
 freely over the head, feet, and ears, and leave 
 them to drain for twenty-four hours. At the 
 end of that time wipe them all dry, put them 
 into a deep pan, and rub into them an ounce 
 and a half of powdered saltpetre, mixed with 
 half a pound of moist sugar ; and add, in a few 
 hours, half a pound of common salt. The fol- 
 lowing day pour a cupful of strong vinegar over 
 
PIG 
 
 537 
 
 PIG 
 
 them, and turn and baste them every day for a 
 •week. Wash them in one or two waters, and 
 put them into a stewpan, with as much luke- 
 warm water as will cover them, and let thorn 
 simmer until tender, so that the bones can be 
 easily drawn out from both the head and feet. 
 Cut the gristle from the thick part of the ears. 
 Wipe the meat, lay it on a flat board, 
 and season it equally in every part with a 
 mixture made of a tea-spoonful and a half of 
 powdered mace, mixed with a large nutmeg, 
 grated, a salt-spoonful of powdered cloves, and 
 a salt-spoonful of cayenne pepper. Put one 
 cheek, skin downwards, upon a board, lay the 
 feet and ears upon it and on the top the 
 other cheek, and make it as even as possible, by 
 laying the thick part of one cheek upon the 
 thin part of the other. EoU it as tightly as 
 possible, and bind securely with pieces of broad 
 tape. Fasten a cloth over the meat, and sew 
 it up at both ends. Lay it in a stewpan, and 
 put with it the bones and trimmings of the 
 head and feet, two onions, two carrots, a bunch 
 of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, two or 
 three sticks of celery, and a, tea-spoonful of 
 peppercorns. Simmer all gently together for 
 two hours, then lift the stewpan on the fire, 
 and leave the meat in it undisturbed until the 
 liquid is half cold. Take off the cloth, put the 
 brawn between two dishes, place a weight upon 
 these, and let the brawn lie until it is cold and 
 stiff. Then, and not before, remove the tapes, 
 and serve as required. The brawn should be 
 cut into thin slices, and will be found excellent 
 for breakfast, supper, or luncheon. If liked, 
 the feet can be omitted, and the head only used. 
 Time, two hours and a half to three hours to 
 boil plainly; two hours to boil after being 
 rolled. Sufficient for a breakfast or supper dish. 
 
 PIG'S HEAD, BOILED. 
 
 Take a pig's head which has been salted by 
 the butcher, or if more convenient, pickle it at 
 home. To do this, scald and cleanse it thor- 
 oughly. Eemove the hair, the snout, the eyes, 
 and the brain. Soak it for twenty-four hours, 
 then cover it with one pound of common salt 
 mixed with an ounce of saltpetre, and turn and 
 baste it every day for five or six days. Drain 
 it, put it into a saucepan, cover with cold water, 
 and put it on the fire, skim the liquid care- 
 fully, and simmer the head gently for two 
 hours from the time when the water boils. 
 Send it to table with peas pudding, and boiled 
 greens. The liquor in which the head was 
 boiled may be converted into excellent pea- 
 soup. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient 
 for eight or nine persons. 
 
 PIG'S HEAD, COLLARED. 
 
 Scald and clean a pig's head, and remove the 
 hair, the snout, the eyes, and the brain. Let 
 it soak in cold water for twelve hours, drain it, 
 and sprinkle over it one pound of common salt 
 mixed with a quarter of an ounce of saltpetre, 
 and turn and baste it every day for five days. 
 Wash it, put it into a saucepan half filled with 
 cold water, bring it to the boil, and skim care- 
 fully, then simmer gently until the bones can 
 be easily drawn out. SpUt the head open, sea- 
 son rather highly with black and Jamaica 
 pepper and salt, and roll it evenly by laying 
 
 the thick part of one cheek to the thin part of 
 the other. Put the head into a cloth, and bind 
 securely, and as lightly as possible, with broad 
 tape. Place it in a stewpan, cover with stock 
 or water, and let it simmer gently until done 
 enough. Lay it between two dishes, place a 
 heavy weight upon it, and let it rem-ain until 
 cold; then turn it out of the cloth, and send to 
 table on a neatly-folded napkin. The feet of 
 the pig may be used as well as the head, or one 
 cheek only with a couple of cow-heels. If it is 
 wished that the pig's head should be collared 
 like brawn, use a larger proportion of salt- 
 petre than is directed above, put in with the 
 cheeks some pieces of lean pork, and cover the 
 whole with a cow-heel. The collared head may, 
 if liked, be kept in a pickle, made of the liquid 
 in which it was boiled, salted and mixed with 
 vinegar. This pickle should be boiled fre- 
 quently. Time to boil, two hours or more the 
 first I time, two hours the second. Probable 
 cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for a breakfast, 
 luncheon, or supper dish. 
 
 PIG'S HEAD, COLLARED (superlative). 
 
 Take a, pig's head cut with as much of the 
 neck as can be had. Clean it carefully, split it 
 open to take out the brains, and bone it with- 
 out injuring the outer skin. Eub it well with 
 common salt, and let it drain for twenty-four 
 hours, then put it into a deep pan, and pour 
 over it a cold brine, prepared as follows. Put 
 one pound of salt and a quarter of an ounce of 
 saltpetre into a stewpan, with four quarts of 
 water, a handful of chopped juniper-berries, 
 half a dozen bruised cloves, three bay-leaves, a 
 sprig of thyme and basil, and two or three sage- 
 leaves. Boil quickly for a quarter of an hour, 
 then put aside to cool. Let the head lie in this 
 , brine for nine or ten days, and turn and baste it 
 frequently. Take it up, drain and dry, it, and 
 lay it open, skin downwards, upon a table; 
 spread evenly over it a forcemeat, made of half 
 a pound of uncooked ham, half a pound of 
 breast of bacon, four ounces of fresh butter, half 
 a dozen young onions, finely minced, a table- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley, with a little 
 cayenne and pounded mace. Pound these in- 
 gredients smoothly together. Shape the head 
 as evenly as possible by laying the thick part 
 of one cheek to the thin part of the other, then 
 roll it tightly, bind it securely with tape, cover 
 with a linen cloth, and put it into a stewpan, 
 with as much cold water or stock as will cover 
 it, together with the bones and trimmings of 
 the head and a little seasoning. Let it simmer 
 gently until done enough, that is, until a 
 skewer will pierce it easily. Leave the head in 
 the liquor until it is almost cold, then put it 
 under a weight, and let it lie until the next day. 
 Remove the bindings, and serve on a neatly- 
 folded napkin. Collared pig's head is a most 
 convenient dish to keep in the house, as it will 
 remain good for a considerable time in moderate 
 weather. Time to boil, four hours, or more, 
 from the time the liquid reaches the boiling 
 point. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient 
 for a breakfast or luncheon dish. 
 
 PIG'S HEAD, MOULDED. 
 
 Lay the head and feet of a pig, and two calf's 
 feet, all properly cleansed, into a stewpan, with 
 
PIG 
 
 538 
 
 PIG 
 
 an onion, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, 
 a bay-leaf, and as much water as will barely 
 cover the whole. Simmer all gently together 
 until the meat is tender, then draw out- the 
 bones, and when the meat is nearly cold, cut it 
 into small pieces about the size of a bean, and 
 put with it any remains of dressed poultry, 
 tongue, or meat that may be at hand, hrst cut- 
 ting them into pieces like the rest. Strain and 
 skim the liquor, and boil it quickly down to a 
 jelly. Clear it with white of egg, and flavour 
 with plenty of salt and pepper, a little grated 
 nutmeg, and a few drops of tarragon vinegar if 
 liked. Put the minced meat into it, with half 
 a dozen sliced gherkins, and let it remain until 
 quite hot. Pour a small quantity of the clear 
 jelly into a mould, and bend it round, when it 
 begins to stiffen, so that it may adhere to the 
 ■sides, and the inside of the mould be evenly 
 coated. Ornament the bottom prettily with 
 beetroot, sliced green pickles, pieces of hard- 
 boiled egg, chopped parsley, etc. Lay three or 
 four table-spoonfuls of the thinnest part of the 
 mince gently into the mould, and when set 
 j)our in the rest. Let it stand until the next 
 day. If there is any difficulty in turning the 
 jellied meat out of the mould, tie a cloth, which 
 las been wrung out of boiling water, round it 
 for a minute or two, and loosen the edges with a 
 knife. Serve on a neatly-folded napkin. Time 
 ■to boil the meat, till tender. Probable cost of 
 ^ead, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for a breakfast 
 or a luncheon dish. 
 
 PIC'S HEAD, PIQUANT. 
 
 Take a fresh pig's head, singe and clean it 
 carefully. Lay it in a pickling-pan, with a 
 ■dessert-spoonful of common salt, halt a dozen 
 ■cloves, one or two bay-leaves, a salt-spoonful of 
 jeppercorns, a salt-spoonful of bruised juniper- 
 berries, two sliced onions, and half a lemon, 
 thinly sliced. Pour half a pint of vinegar over 
 ■the whole, let it lie for five days, turning and 
 basting the head and rubbing in the spices at 
 least once each day. Take it up, drain and dry 
 it, brush it over with clarified butter, and place 
 it in a stewpan over a moderate fire until it is 
 lightly browned all over. Pour in the marin- 
 ade, leaving out most of the lemon, and add a 
 cupful o{ water. Put the lid on the saucepan, 
 steam the meat gently for an hour and a half, 
 and while it is being cooked baste it two or 
 three times with the liquid. Put the head 
 •on a hot dish. Skim and strain the sauce 
 and send it to table in a tureen. Time, 
 :five days to lie in the marinade ; a quarter 
 of an hour to colour the head; one hour 
 and a half to steam it. Probable cost, 
 8d. per pound. Sufficient for eight or nine 
 persons. 
 
 PIG'S HEAD, ROAST. 
 
 Take up a pig's head which has been already 
 boiled until it is sufficiently tender to take out 
 the bones. Shape it neatly, and skewer it 
 irmly. Sprinkle over it some sage-leaves, 
 finely powdered, and a little pepper and salt, 
 and hang it before a clear fire. Baste it well 
 whilst it is roasting. Serve on a hot dish, with 
 a good gravy poured over it, and seiid apple 
 sauce to table in a tureen. Time to roast, half 
 an hour. 
 
 PIG'S HEAD, SCRAPPLE OF (an American dish). 
 
 Scald and clean a pig's head, and remove the 
 hair, the snout, the ears, and the brain. Put it 
 on the fire in four quarts of cold water, and 
 bring it slowly to the boil. Skim carefully, 
 season the liquid rather highly with salt and 
 cayenne, and add half a dozen sage-leaves, 
 chopped small. Let the head simmer gently 
 for two hours, then take out the bones, mince 
 the flesh finely, and put it back into the lic[uid. 
 Stir in as much sifted cornmeal as will thicken 
 the liquid, and simmer two hours longer, until 
 it is of the consistency of thick porridge. Pour 
 it into deep jars, and set in a cool place. When 
 scrapple of pig's head is to be eaten, cut it into 
 slices, and fry these in hot fat for breakfast. 
 Time, ten minutes to fry the slices. Probable 
 cost of head, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for three 
 or four good-sized jars. 
 
 PIG'S KIDNEYS. 
 
 Pig's kidneys may be broiled, fried, or stewed, 
 in the same way as mutton kidneys. The skirts 
 may be cooked with the kidneys. Cut them, 
 lengthwise, into slices a quarter of an inch 
 thick, season with r.alt and cayenne, and 
 sprinkle over them a dessert-spoonful of finely- 
 powdered herbs, of which two-thirds should be 
 parsley, and one-third chives. Fry them for 
 five or six minutes in two ounces of hot butter, 
 and when nicely browned, stir a dessert-spoon- 
 ful of 1 flour in amongst them, and add, very 
 gradually, a quarter of a pint of good gravyj 
 and a table-spoonful of ketchup. When on the 
 point of boiliiig, take out the meat, put it on a 
 hot dish, let the sauce remain on the fire for 
 one minute, and pour it boiling over the kid- 
 neys. Garnish with toasted sippets. A glass- 
 ful of light wine may be added to the sauce. 
 Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 
 Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 PIG'S KIDNEYS, BROILED. 
 
 Split the kidneys lengthwise from t'ne 
 rounded part, without separating them entirely. 
 Peel off the skin, and pass a wooden or metal 
 skewer through them to keep them flat. 
 Sprinkle a little pepper, salt, and powdered 
 sage over them, oil them slightly, and broil 
 
 llo- 
 
 them over a clear fire, the hollow side first, so 
 that the gravy may be kept in when they are 
 turned. Serve on a hot dish, either with or 
 without maitre d'hotel sauce in a tureen. 
 Time to broil the kidneys, four minutes each 
 side, or more, according to the size. Sufficient, 
 one kidney for each person. 
 
 PIG'S KIDNEYS, FRIED. 
 
 Peel the kidneys, cut them into slices, dip 
 them in clarified butter, and afterwards into a 
 mixture, made of two finely-minced shallots, 
 two table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, a pinch 
 of powdered thyme, and a little pepper and salt. 
 Fry them in an ounce of butter until they are 
 lightly browned, put them into a hot dish, and 
 mix with the Butter two table-spoonfuls of 
 thick brown gravy and two table-spoonfuls of 
 claret. Boil the sauce, pour it over the kidneys, 
 and serve hot. If no gravy is at hand, take the 
 kidneys up, mix a tea-spoonful of flour smoothly 
 with the butter in the pan, and add a wine- 
 glassful of boiling water, a dessert-spoonful of 
 
PIG 
 
 '539 
 
 PIG 
 
 mushroom-ketcliup, a little salt and cayenne, 
 and a glassful of claret. Boil the sauce, and 
 strain it over the kidneys. Time to fry, six 
 minutes. Probable cost of pig's kidneys, 
 .fid. to 8d. each. Sufficient for two or three 
 persons. 
 
 PIG'S LIVER, BAKED. 
 
 Pig's liver may be dressed according to the 
 directions given for calf's liver, but it is very 
 good prepared as follows. Soak a fresh pig's liver 
 and cut it into slices less than half an inch 
 thick. Boil and mash two pounds of potatoes, 
 and put a layer of them at the bottom of a well- 
 buttered mould. Lay on this a few slices of the 
 liver, with an equal number of slices of fat 
 bacon, and sprinkle over the meat a little pep- 
 per, chopped parsley, minced onion, and 
 powdered sage. Put in potatoes again, and 
 repeat until the dish is full, remembering 
 always that the topmost l^yer must consist of 
 potatoes. Pour half a cupful of boiling stock 
 •or water over the whole, and bake in a well- 
 Jieated oven. Turn the mould upon a hot dish, 
 brown the top with a Balamfinder, and serve. 
 A large handful of parsley, two sage-leaves, two 
 •onions, and a tea-spoonful of pepper, will season 
 this dish. The amount of salt required must be 
 regulated by the quality of the bacon. Time to 
 bake, two hours. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient 
 for three- or four persons. 
 
 PIG'S LIVER, FRIED. 
 
 Soak the liver of a freshly-killed pig, and cut 
 it into slices less than half an inch thick. 
 Sprinkle a little pepper and salt over these, and 
 fry them in hot fat until they are brightly 
 "browned on both sides. Take them up, put 
 "them on a hot dish, , and mix a tea-spoonful of 
 flour smoothly with the butter in which they 
 were fried. Moisten with two table-spoonfuls 
 of boiling stock or water and two table-spoon- 
 fuls of claret. Stir the gravy over the fire until 
 it is on the point of boiling, add pepper and 
 salt, if required; pour the sauce over the liver 
 and serve very hot. If liked, one or two -sliced 
 ■onions may be fried with the liver. Time to 
 fry the liver, a quarter of an hour. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for two or three 
 person.^. 
 
 PIG'S PETTITOES, OR SUCKING PIG'S FEET, 
 FRIED IN BATTER. 
 
 Make a frying batter as follows. Mix five 
 ■ounces of flour smoothly with a gill of water and 
 a little salt. Add the well-beaten yolks of two 
 leggs, mixeij with two table-spoonfuls of Lucca 
 ■oil ; beat the batter for five or six minutes, then 
 -pvX it aside for an hour. It ought to be as 
 -thick as custard. A few minutes before it is 
 -wanted, stir in the whites of the eggs, whisked 
 to a firm froth. Clean the pettitoes thoroughly. 
 Boil them gently in as much broth or water as 
 will cover them, until they are tender. Take 
 them up, dry them well, split them open, dip 
 .them into the batter, and fry them in hot butter 
 until they are lightly browned. Serve on a 
 neatly-folded napkin. Time to boil the petti- 
 toes, from twenty to thirty minutes ; to fry, ten 
 minutes. Probable cost, uncertain, pig's petti- 
 toes being generally sold with the pig. Suf- 
 ficient for two or three persons. 
 
 PIG'S PETTITOES, STEWED. 
 
 Cleanse a set of pettitoes thoroughly, and put 
 them into a stewpan, with the heart, the liver, 
 a thin slice of bacon, six or'eight peppercorns, 
 a sprig of thyme, half a blade of mace, and as 
 much broth or water as will cover the whole. 
 Simmer gently for a quarter of an hour, then 
 take out the heart and the liver, and mince 
 them finely. Leave the feet until they are 
 tender — they will require to be simmered from 
 twenty to thirty minutes, counting from the 
 time when they first reach the boiling-point. 
 When the feet are done enough, put the mince 
 back into the stewpan, with a little pepper and 
 salt, a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a table- 
 spoonful of cream. Shake the saucepan over 
 the fire for five or six minutes. Serve the mince 
 in the sauce on a hot dish, split the feet, lay 
 them upon the mince, and garnish with toasted 
 sippets. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 PIGS' TONGUES. 
 
 Trim six or eight pigs' tongues neatly at the 
 root, and rub them well with moist sugar. 
 Leave them for twenty-four hours ; then rub 
 into them a powder, made of four ounces of 
 common salt, two ounces of bay salt, and half 
 an ounce of saltpetre. Turn them daily. They 
 will be ready for use in ten days. If liked, they 
 may be put into sausage-skins, dried, and 
 smoked. Sufficient, one tongue for each person. 
 
 PIG, SUCKING. 
 
 Sucking pigs are in season all the year round, 
 though they are to be preferred in cold weather, 
 and are at their best from the middle of 
 November to the end of December. To be 
 eaten in perfection they should not be more 
 than three weeks old, and should be cooked as 
 soon as possible after they are killed, as they 
 
 SUCKING PIG. 
 
 deteriorate in quality every hour that they are 
 kept. Sucking pig is fattened with milk and 
 whey, with the addition of barley-meal. Some 
 consider the flesh a great delicacy ; others, how- 
 ever, hold it to be too luscious. It is very 
 nourishing, but not so digestible as might be 
 supposed. The price of a sucking pig varies 
 considerably with the season and the demand ; 
 they may be had sometimes for 5s. or 6s., at 
 others 20s. or 25s. may be asked for them. The 
 average' cost. is from 6s. to 9s. 
 PIG, SUCKING ik la Fran9aise). 
 
 Wipe the pig quite dry inside and out, and 
 stuff it with a forcemeat prepared as follows. 
 Shred half a pound of beef suet very finely, mix 
 
PIG 
 
 ■540 
 
 PiG 
 
 with it half a pound of grated bread-crumba, 
 and add a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, 
 eight sage-leaves, minced, and a little pepper 
 and salt. Bind the mixture together with the 
 well-beaten yolks of two eggs and a table-spoon- 
 ful of milk, if necessary. Sew up the slit 
 securely, and roast the pig until it is three parts 
 cooked. Take it down, put it on one side, and 
 cut it up into neat pieces. Place these in a 
 stewpan, barely cover them with a little stock, 
 and add a large Spanish onion finely minced, a 
 dessert-spoonful of chopped lemon-rind, a little 
 salt, grated nutmeg, and cayenne pepper, a 
 bunch of parsley, and a pinch of powdered 
 thyme. Stew these ingredients gently together 
 for an hour. Strain the sauc,e, and thicken it 
 with a dessert-spoonful of brown thickening, or, 
 failing this, with half an ounce of butter rolled 
 in flour; add a dessert-spoonful of mushroom 
 ketchup, and a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce, 
 with the stufling made up into small balls. Stew 
 a quarter of an hour longer, and serve the pig 
 on a hot dish with the sauce poured over it. 
 Probable cost of sucking-pig, 6s. to 9s. Suf- 
 ficient for ten or twelve persons. 
 
 PIG, SUCKING, BAKED. 
 
 Prepare and stuff the pig exactly as for roast- 
 ing. Brush it well in every part with beaten 
 white of egg; it will then require no further 
 basting, and the crackling will be perfectly 
 crisp. Serve and dish it in the same way as 
 roast pig, and with the same accompaniments. 
 A sucking-pig is much more easily baked than 
 roasted, and is, in the opinion of the majority of 
 persons, quite as nice. Time to bake a three 
 weeks old pig, an hour and a half to two hours. 
 Probable cost, 6s. to 9s. Sufficient for eight or 
 nine persons. 
 
 PIG, SUCKING, BROILED (k la Tartare). 
 
 Cut the remains of a cold roast pig into neat 
 slices, freed entirely from skin and gristle. Dip 
 them into clarified butter, and afterwards into 
 highly-seasoned bread-crumbs, and broil them 
 over a clear ^re ulitil they are brightly browned. 
 Serve the slices on a hot dish, with a sauce, 
 made as follows, in a tureen. Mince a mod- 
 erate-sized onion very fiiiely, and fry.it in half 
 an ounce of butter until it is lightly browned. 
 Season rather highly with pepper, pour two 
 table-spoonfuls of vinegar over it, and' boil all 
 together for three minutes. Add a table-spoon- 
 ful of flour mixed smoothly with half a pint of 
 water, and half a tea-spoonful of Bovril. Boil 
 these for a quarter of ail hour. Stir in a table- 
 spoonful of mixed mustard, a table-spoonful of 
 Worcester sauce, and a tea-spoonful of anchovy. 
 Serve very hot. When the shoulders of the pig 
 are left untouched they are excellent broiled 
 whole in this way, and curry or tomato sauce 
 may be served with them, instead of the above. 
 Time, ten minutes to broil the slices ; half an 
 hour to make the sauce. Probable cost, exclu- 
 sive of the cold pig, 8d. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. 
 
 PIG, SUCKING, CURRANT SAUCE FOR. 
 
 (iSee CuBRANT Satjcb, etc.) 
 PIG, SUCKING Cen Blanquette). 
 
 Cut the remains of a cold roast pig into neat 
 pieces, freed entirely from skin and gristle, and 
 
 season with peppetj salt, and grated nutmeg. 
 Melt one ounce of butter in a stewpan, and mix 
 with it half an ounce of fiour. Add half a 
 dozen mushrooms cut into slices, and a bunch 
 of parsley, and moisten the whole with half a 
 pint of stock and a glassful of sherry. Simmer 
 the sauce gently until it is considerably re- 
 duced, and of the consistency of thick cream, 
 then strain it, and put in the meat. When this is 
 quite hot, without having boiled, stir into the 
 sauce the yolks of three eggs beaten up with a 
 table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice. Stir 
 this for a minute, and serve the meat on a hot 
 dish with the sauce poured over it. Time, two 
 hours. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the 
 cold meat. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 PIG, SUCKING, GALANTINE OF. 
 
 Scald and clean the pig, split it open, lay it 
 fiat upon a table, and bone it carefully. The 
 head may be cut off, if desired : if left on it 
 should not be boned. Make as much good veal 
 stuffing as can be spread evenly and thinly over 
 the pig. Place upon this, in layers, thin slices 
 of tongue, hard-boiled eggs, truffles, fat bacon, 
 and ham, and cover the whole with another 
 layer of veal forcemeat. Eoll the pig tightly, so 
 as not to displace the forcemeat, etc., bind it 
 firmly with strips of tape, cover with a soft 
 cloth, and sew up securely. Boil as much 
 nicely-seasoned stock as will cover the pig, put 
 with it, if liked, a glassful of sherry, and sim- 
 mer gently until the tape becomes loose. Let 
 the galantine grow cold in the liquor in which 
 it was boiled, then lift it out, and boil the stock 
 quickly until it is sufficiently reduced to form a 
 jelly when cold, clep-r it with white of egg, and 
 pour it over the meat. Some cooks place a 
 weight upon the galantine until it is cold, and 
 then either glaze it or cover it with bread rasp- 
 ings. Time to boil the galantine, five hours or 
 more. Probable cost, 12s. to ISs. Sufficient 
 for a large breakfast, luncheon, or supper dish. 
 
 PIG, SUCKING, GRAVY FOR. 
 
 Due regard should be had for the kind of 
 stuffing used. If of the ordinary sage-and- 
 onion type, bread, or apple, or brown sauce 
 may be used. With chestBut stuffing, chestnut 
 sauce is most suitable. A gravy made by pour- 
 ing some stock into the pan and boiling it up 
 with the gravy from the pig is generally liked. 
 A little lemon-juice should be put in the gravy 
 to counteract the richness of the dish. 
 
 PiG, SUCKING, ROAST. 
 
 Wipe the pig thoroughly, stuff it, and sew up 
 the slit securely with soft thread. Truss it like 
 a hare, with the fore-legs skewered back and 
 the hind-legs drawn forward. Bub it over with 
 clarified butter, or fresh salad-oil, and put it 
 down, not too near, before a clear brisk fire. 
 Baste constantly, or the crackling will be 
 blistered and burnt, instead of crisp and brown. 
 As the middle part requires less roasting than 
 the ends, it is usual, when the pig is half done, 
 to hang a flat iron from the spit in such a posi- 
 tion that it. will shade the middle from the heat 
 of the fire. It is well to tie some butter in a 
 piece of muslin, and rub the pig over with this 
 two or three times whilst it is roasting. When it 
 is done enough, cut off the head before the pig is 
 
PIG 
 
 541 
 
 PIG 
 
 taken from the fire, take out the brains, and 
 chop them up quickly with the stuffing ; add the 
 gravy which has dropped from the pig,' and, 
 when it can be obtained, a cupful of good veal 
 or beef gravy, together with a little cayenne, 
 lemon-juice, and grated nutmeg. To dish it, 
 cut the pig open, and lay the sides back to back, 
 lengthwise, upon the dish, with one half of the 
 head at each end and the ears at the sides. If 
 preferred, the brains may be stirred into melted 
 butter instead of gravy. Rich brown sauce, 
 tomato, poivrade, piquant, proven9ale, bread, 
 apple, and the old-fashioned currant sauce, 
 are all served with sucking pig. Time to roast, 
 according to size : a three weeks old pig, 
 two hours. Probable cost, 6s. to 12s. Suf- 
 ficient, a three weeks old pig for eight or nine 
 persons. 
 
 PIG, SUCKING, ROAST (Dr. Kitchener's recipe). 
 
 A sucking pig is in priine order for the spit 
 when about three weeks old. It loses part of 
 its goodness every hour after it is killed; if 
 not quite fresh, no art can make the crackling 
 crisp. To be in perfection, it should be killed 
 in the morning to be eaten at dinner; it re- 
 quires very careful roasting. For the stuffing, 
 take of the crumb of a stale loaf about 
 five ounces ; rub it through a colander ; 
 mince finely a handful of sage {i.e. about 
 two ounces), and a large quion (about an 
 oijnee and a half) ; mix these together with an 
 egg, some pepper and salt, and a bit of butter 
 as big as an egg; fill the belly of the pig with 
 this, and sew it up ; lay it to the fire, and baste 
 it with salad-oil till it is quite done. Do not 
 leave it a moment ; it requires the most vigilant 
 attendance. Eoast it at a clear brisk fire at 
 some distance. To gain the praise of epicurean 
 pig-eaters, the crackling must be nicely crisped 
 ■and delicately and lightly browned, without be- 
 ing either blistered or burnt. , A small three 
 weeks old pig will be done enough in about an 
 hour and a half. Before you take it from the 
 fire, cut off the head, and part that and the 
 body down the middle; chop the brains very 
 fine with soine boiled sage-leaves, and mix them 
 with good veal gravy, or beef gravy, or what 
 runs from the pig when you "cut its head oif . 
 Send up a tureenful of beef gravy sauce besides. 
 Currant sauce is still a favourite with some of 
 the old school. Lay your pig back to back in 
 the dish, with one half of the head on each side, 
 and the ears one at each end, which you must 
 take care to make nice and crisp. When you 
 cut off the pettitoes, leave the skin long, round 
 the ends of the legs. When you first lay the 
 pig before the fire, rub it all over with fresh 
 butter or salad-oil ; ten minutes after, when the 
 skin looks dry, dredge it well with flour all 
 over; let it remain on an hour; then rub it 
 with a soft cloth. A pig is a -very troublesome 
 subject to roast. Most persons have them 
 baked. 
 
 PIG, SUCKING, SCALDED. 
 
 A sucking pig is generally sent from the 
 butcher's ready for the spit, but for the benefit 
 of those who find it necessary to prepare it 
 themselves the following directions are . given. 
 Put the pig into cold water directly after it is 
 killed, and let it remain for five minutes, then 
 
 take it up, and hold it by the head in a large 
 pan of boiling water for two minutes. Lay it 
 on a table, and rub the hairs off with a coarse 
 cloth. If they do not come off easily, put the 
 pig in the water another minute. When quite 
 clean, make a slit down the belly, and take out 
 the entrails, leaving the kidneys untouched. 
 Cut off the feet at the first joint, and leave a 
 small portion of skin to fold neatly over thei 
 end. Clean the nostrils and ears thoroughly, 
 wash the pig in two or three waters, and with a 
 cloth dry it, inside and out, then wrap it in a 
 damp cloth until it can be cooked. The feet, 
 the heart, and the liver of a sucking-pig are 
 generally served separately. 
 
 PIG, SUCKING, STUFFED. 
 
 Bemove the bones from every part of a suck- 
 ing pig except the head, which should be left 
 entire. Stuff the pig with equal parts of bacon 
 and veal-liver cut small, and seasoned with salt, 
 pepper, cloves, and nutmeg, as well as with 
 some sage and basil cut' as small as possible. 
 Lay on the stuffing some slices of ham and 
 tongue, arrange these in layers, and cut in 
 strips some bacon, truffles, etc. Arrange the 
 skin over, these, bring the sucking pig into as 
 natural a shape as possible, and then enclose it 
 in a linen cloth with some slices of bacon, and 
 basil, and sage-leaves. Put it in a pan with 
 some stock broth, salt and pepper, and dress it 
 at a very gentle heat. Allow it to get suf- 
 ficiently cold in the vessel in which it is cooked, 
 that it may be compressed between the hands to 
 force out the liquid inside it. Let the sucking 
 pig get quite cold, and remove the cloth before 
 sending it to table. 
 
 PIG, SUCKING, STUFFING FOR. 
 
 A sucking-pig is usually filled with a stuffing 
 prepared as follows. Take half a pint of finely- 
 grated bread-crumbs. Mix with them a dozen 
 sage-leaves, chopped small, a tea-spoonful of 
 salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and a pinch 
 of, cayenne. Moisten these with two ounces of 
 clarified butter and the well-beaten yolk of an' 
 egg. One onion or more, chopped small, may 
 be added or not, according to taste. Time, a 
 few minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 4d. 
 Sufficient for one young pig. 
 
 PIG, SUCKING, STUFFING OF CHESTNUTS FOR. 
 
 Peel, scald, and blanch fifty chestnuts, and 
 boil them in a pint of milk, with a pinch 
 of salt and half an ounce of butter. When 
 they are done enough, drain and dry them, and 
 mix them with one pound of good pork sausage 
 meat. Pill the body of the pig, and sew it 
 securely. When the pig is filled with this force- 
 meat, a sauce, made as follows, should be sent to 
 table with it. Peel, scald, and blanch six ounces 
 of sound chestnuts, and stew them in three- 
 quarters of a pint of good brown gravy until 
 they are sufficiently tender to be rubbed through 
 a hair sieve. Stir into the pulp half a dozen 
 table-spoonfuls of rich brown sauce, season 
 rather highly with mace and cayenne, and add 
 a little salt, if necessary. Stir the sauce over 
 the fire until it boils, and serve immediately. 
 A glassful of Madeira or sherry may be added 
 or not. Time, twenty minutes to boil the 
 chestnuts for the stuffing; one hour and a 
 
PIG 
 
 C12 
 
 PIG 
 
 quarter for the sauce. ' Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 Sufficient for one pig. 
 
 PIG, SUCKING, STUFFING OF POTATOES FOR. 
 
 Potatoes mashed with milk, and seasoned with 
 pepper and salt, are sometimes used as a stuffing 
 for roast sucking pig. Any of the ordinary 
 sauces may be sent to table with this dish. 
 
 PIG, SUCKING, STUFFING OF TRUFFLES FOR. 
 
 Take one pound of English truffles. Wash 
 and brush them well, changing the water several 
 times, dry them, and cut each one into 
 quarters. Mince half a pound of fat bacon 
 finely, and pound it to a paste. Put it into a 
 stewpan, with the truffles, a clove of garlic, 
 half a tea-spoonful of chopped thyme, a bay- 
 leaf, and a little grated nutmeg, pepper, and 
 salt. Let these ingredients simmer over a 
 gentle fire for ten minutes, when they will be 
 ready to put inside the pig. When the pig is 
 filled with this forcemeat, a sauce, made as fol- 
 lows, should be sent to table with it. Wash, 
 wipe, and pare four truffles, and chop them very 
 small. Put them into a stewpan, with half a 
 pint of thick brown sauce, a piece of garlic the 
 size of a pea, and a glassful of sherry, and let 
 them boil for ten minutes. Mix with them half 
 a tea-spoonful of Bovril, and a tea-spoonful of 
 the essence of anchovy. Boil up once more, 
 and serve. Probable cost, uncertain. Suf- 
 ficient for one pig. 
 
 PIGEON. 
 
 Tame pigeons should be cooked as soon as 
 possible after they are killed, as they very 
 quickly lose their flavour. Wood pigeons and 
 rock pigeons, on the contrary, should be 
 allowed to hang a few days before they are 
 dressed. Although these birds may be said to 
 be in season all the year round, they are at 
 their best from Midsummer to Michaelmas. In 
 choosing them, it sj^ould be remembered that 
 dark-coloured birds are thought to possess the 
 highest flavour, and light-coloured birds to be 
 the most delicate. Young birds are, of course, 
 always to be preferred to old ones. When the 
 legs are large and deaply coloured, the pigeon 
 is old, and will very likely be tough. House 
 pigeons are the best, and wood pigeons the 
 largest. Rock pigeons are inferior in quality 
 to both the others. 
 
 PIGEON PIE @ I'Anglaise). 
 
 Take two or more freshly-killed young 
 pigeons. Divide in two lengthwise, cut off their 
 feet at the first joint, and turn their legs inside 
 close to the pinions. Put inside each half bird 
 a little forcemeat made of the livers finely 
 minced, with a little parsley, pepper, salt, and 
 butter. Moisten the edges of a pie-dish with a 
 little stock or water, and line them with strips 
 of pastry a quarter of an inch thick. Place at 
 the bottom of the dish one pound of rump steak 
 cut into neat pieces, and seasoned with pepper 
 and salt. Lay the pigeons upon these, breast 
 downwards, and put the yolk of a hard-boiled 
 egg between each two halves. Sprinkle some 
 pepper and salt and a small quantity of 
 grated nutmeg over the pigeons,' put here and 
 there upon them an ounce of butter broken into 
 small pieces, lay on the top a small bay-leaf, 
 and pour over the birds a cupful of nicely- 
 
 seasoned stock sufficiently strong to form a, 
 jelly when cold. If there is any doubt about 
 this, a dessert-spoonful of gelatine must be dis- 
 solved in the stock. Cover the pie with a thick 
 crust, ornament prettily, brush over with 
 beaten yolk of egg^ put three of the feet, 
 properly cleaned, in the middle of the crust, and 
 bake the pie in a moderate oven. Time to bake, 
 about two hours and a half. Probable cost, 4s., 
 with pigeons at 9d. each. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. 
 
 PIGEON PIE, RAISED. 
 
 Bone four or more pigeons, then quarter them, 
 and fry to a nice brown in a little clarified but- 
 ter. Put them in a case of good raised paste 
 (see Paste, foe Eaised Pies), and fill up with 
 layers of good forcemeat and hard-boiled eggs 
 in slices. Truffles or mushrooms may be intro- 
 duced either as components of the forcemeat or 
 otherwise. If liked, some strips of ham, or good 
 bacon, or a little tender beef steak may be 
 added. Put on a lid of paste, with leaves or 
 other devices; pin a. band of paper round the 
 mould that it may not get too dark, and bake 
 in a very steady oven for two and a half to three 
 hours. When done, fill up, through a china 
 funnel placed in an aperture in the lid, with 
 gravy made from the bones of the pigeons. 
 Probable cost, 6s. 
 
 PIGEON PUDDING. 
 
 Line a pudding-basin with a good suet or 
 butter crust. Fill it with a pound of rump 
 steak cut into neat pieces and nicely seasoned, 
 and two or three pigeons divided into halves, 
 and prepared as for a pie. Add the yolks of 
 four hard-boiled eggs, a small lump of butter, 
 and a cupful of rather highly-seasoned gravy. 
 Cover the pudding with pastry, tie it in a 
 floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and 
 let it boil quicltly until done enough. Time to 
 boil, two hours and a half. Probable cost, 4s., 
 with pigeons at 9d. each. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. 
 
 PIGEON, PUREE OF. 
 
 Cut three pigeons into small joints, and put 
 them into a pan with three pints of stock, two 
 onions, a carrot, a turnip, a head of celery, four 
 ounces of ham, and pepper and salt to taste, 
 and simmer for two hours. Take the pieat off 
 th6 breasts, and put it on one side. Let the 
 bones, etc., stew for another hour, then strain; 
 cut the meat from the breasts into very small 
 shreds, and return these to the stock, which may 
 be slightly thickened and coloured. Add a. 
 ta*ble-spoonful of cream and a squeeze of lemon- 
 juice, and serve. 
 
 PIGEONS (a la St. Men^hould). 
 
 Mix an ounce of butter and flour smoothly 
 together over a moderate fire. Add half a pint 
 of milk, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a 
 bay-leaf, two moderate-sized onions, a carrot, 
 and a parsnip, all sliced, and a little salt, pep- 
 per, and grated nutmeg. Stir the sauce until it 
 boils; then put in two plump young pigeons, 
 trussed as if for boiling, and let them stew 
 gently until they are done enough. Take them 
 up, drain them, cover them with egg and bread- 
 crumbs, and fry in hot fat until they are lightly 
 coloured. Serve on a hot dish, with the sauce 
 
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 •J 
 
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 Z 
 O 
 
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 D 
 
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PIG 
 
 543 
 
 PIG 
 
 poured round them. Time, about half an hour 
 to stew the pigeons. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. 
 Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 PIGEONS (4 la Veronese). . 
 
 Cut up three or four pigeons into quarters, 
 and stew for fifteen minutes in a good stock. 
 Remove them from the pan, dry well, brush with 
 Bgg, and cover each piece well with a mixture 
 , of four ounces of bread-crumbs, two ounces of 
 grated Parmesan cheese, and one table-spoonful 
 of chopped parsley. Fry to a, nice brown, and 
 garnish with fried parsley. 
 
 PIGEONS, BRAISED, WITH MUSHROOMS, ETC. 
 
 Stuff three pigeons with good veal forcemeat, 
 and truss them as if for boiling. Put one or 
 two slices of fat bacon tinder and over the birds, 
 and place with them, in a pan just large enough 
 to contain them, a- large onion fried in hot 
 butter, a broken shank of veal, a, bunch of pars- 
 ley, a sprig of thyme, a blade of mace, a little 
 pepper and salt, and a pint of good stock. 
 Cover the preparation with buttered paper, press 
 the lid of the saucepan closely down, and let 
 the pigeons stew as gently as possible. Take 
 them up, and keep them hot while the gravy is 
 boiling quickly down to a jelly. Glaze them 
 with this, and serve with stewed mushrooms or 
 green peas. Time to braise, three-quarters of 
 an hour. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for 
 three persons. 
 
 PIGEONS, BROILED. 
 
 Pigeons may be broiled whole, or split open 
 and flattened with a cleaver. They are more 
 easily cooked when , flattened, but retain their 
 juice better if left whole. Pluck, draw, singe, 
 and wash the bird. Dip it in some oil or clari- 
 fied butter, season with pepper and salt, and 
 broil over a clear fire until it is nicely browned. 
 Baste once or twice ; and in order to do this put 
 the bird on a plate, and with a feather brush it 
 over with oil or butter. Serve as hot as possi- 
 ble, and send mushroom sauce, brown gravy, 
 parsley sauce, tomato sauce, or piquant sauce 
 to table in a tureen. Time to broil the pigeon, 
 fifteen minutes each side. Probable cost, 9d. to 
 Is. 9d. each. Sufficient for one person. 
 
 PIGEONS, BROILED (another way). 
 
 Mix an ounce of butter with a dessert-spoon- 
 ful of dried flour. Add a. finely-minced shallot, 
 a salt-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a little 
 pepper and salt. Stir the mixture over the fire 
 for five minutes. Truss two pigeons as if for 
 boiling, flatten them without breaking the skin, 
 put a piece of butter and a little pepper and 
 salt inside them, and tie them at both ends. 
 Dip them into the mixture while it is warm, 
 and continue to do so until they are covered 
 with it. Leave them in a cool place for an 
 hour or more, then broil them over a slow fire. 
 Send tomato, mushroom, or piquant sauce to 
 table with them. If preferred, pigeons may be 
 split open and half cooked in butter before 
 they are egged, breadejl, and broiled. Time to 
 broil, fifteen minutes each side. Probable cost, 
 9d. to Is. 9d. each. Sufficient for two persons. 
 
 PIGEONS, COMPOTE OF. 
 
 Truss half a dozen plump young pigeons as 
 if for boiling. Lard them down the breasts, or. 
 
 if preferred, cover their breasts 'with thin slices 
 of fat bacon. Fry them in hot butter till they 
 are equally and lightly browned all over; then 
 drain them, and put them side by side into a 
 stewpan large enough to contain them. Barely 
 cover them with good gravy, and add half a 
 dozen small onions, a dozen button-mushrooms, 
 a glassful of claret, and a little salt and cay- 
 enne. Let the birds stew gently for half an 
 hour ; then add a large table-spoonful of tomato 
 sauce, and stew a few minutes longer. Place 
 the birds on a hot dish, with the sauce, etc., 
 round them. If liked, the pigeons may be stuffed 
 with veal forcemeat, and a dozen forcemeat, 
 balls may be sent to table with them. Time, 
 altogether, about two hours. Probable cost, 6s.. 
 Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 PIGEONS, CURRY OF. 
 
 Cut one or two pigeons into quarters, and fry 
 them in butter until they are nicely browned- 
 Take them up, drain them, and put them aside; 
 until wanted. Peel and slice three large onions, 
 and fry them in the same butter. Put with, 
 them half a dozen chopped mushrooms and half 
 a pint of strong veal stock. Stir them together^ 
 add a large tea-spoonful of curry-paste and a 
 salt-spoonful of curry-powder, and boil all to- 
 gether until the onions, etc., are quite soft, then 
 rub the whole through a fine hair sieve. Add a 
 dessert-spoonful of brown thickening, and boil 
 the sauce until it is of the consistency of 
 custard. D/aw it to the side of the fire, let it 
 cool a minute, then put in the pieces of pigeon, 
 and let them heat in the hot sauce, without boil- 
 ing. Pour the whole upon a hot dish, and serve 
 with a border of rice round the curry. By many 
 persons a cupful of thick cream will be con- 
 sidered a great improvement to this dish. A 
 sour apple also may be minced and fried with 
 the onions. When brown thickening is not at- 
 hand, a dessert-spoonful of ground rice may b& 
 mixed smoothly with a little of the sauce, and 
 stirred into the rest. Brown thickening is, how- 
 ever, so useful that it ought to be at hand in 
 every kitchen, (^^ee Gbavt, Beown Eotrx toe)- 
 Time, half an hour to heat the pigeons in the' 
 sauce. Probable cost, 2s. 6d., exclusive of the 
 cream. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 PIGEONS, CUTLETS OF. 
 
 Divide two or three pigeons in halves length- 
 wise, by cutting them down through the 
 breast and back; remove the wing bones, and 
 turn the leg bones inside, so as to shape them 
 something like a chop. Sprinkle a little pepper 
 and salt over them, and fry in hot fat until 
 they are done enough. Put them between two 
 dishes, place a weight upon the top, and leav& 
 them until they are cold. Mince two small 
 shallots, and fry them in the fat until they are 
 lightly browned. ' Pour over them half a pint of 
 stock, or (failing this) water, and season the 
 gravy with pepper and salt. Boil gently, and 
 skim carefully, for half an hour or more, then 
 strain the liquid. Heat it when it is wanted, 
 and send to table in a tureen. A glassful of 
 sherry or claret may be added to this gravy, or 
 if liked, a table-spoonful of red currant jelly 
 may be dissolved in it. When the cutlets are 
 wanted, dip them in clarified butter, then into 
 bread-crumbs, and broil them over a clear slow 
 
PIG 
 
 544 
 
 PIG 
 
 fire until they are brightly browned. Diah them 
 in a circle, with French beans, peas, asparagus, 
 or stewed mushrooms in the centre. A cut 
 lemon, or, if preferred, a little red currant jelly, 
 is an excellent accompaniment to pigeon cutlets. 
 Time to broil the cutlets, five minutes for each 
 side. Probable cost of pigeons, 8d. to Is. 9d. 
 each. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 PIGEONS (en Matelote). 
 
 Put some butter and flour into a stewpan, and 
 simmer until it turns brown. Cook in the 
 butter the pigeons cut in pieces, with a few thin 
 slices of bacon. Pour over them some stock and 
 white wine, and add some chives, parsley, 
 thyme, mushrooms, and onions fried in butter, 
 as well as salt, pepper, and spice. Boil down 
 over a good fire. 
 
 PIGEONS (en Papillotes). 
 
 Pluck and draw two young freshly-killed 
 pigeons, and split them in two down the back. 
 Season rather highly with pepper, and cover 
 them with a mixture made of the liver finely 
 minced, two shallots, chopped small, half a 
 dozen sliced button-mushrooms, a table-spoonful 
 of shredded parsley, and a pinch of powdered 
 
 PIGEONS EN PAPILLOTES. 
 
 thyme. Lay thin slices of fat bacon over the 
 mixture, and enclose each half pigeon in a sheet 
 of thick writing-paper which has been liberally 
 oiled en both sides. Tlie paper must be suf- 
 ficiently large to enfold the birds, and the edges 
 must be twisted tightly in, to prevent the 
 escape of the gravy. Broil the birds over a 
 clear fire, and serve them in the papillotes. 
 They will not require any sauce. Time to broil, 
 fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 
 2s. 3d. Sufficient for two persons. 
 
 PIGEONS (en Surprise). 
 
 Pluck and draw two plump young pigeons, 
 and truss them as if for boiling. Put them 
 into boiling water for a minute to blanch them, 
 then take them out, put in their places two fine 
 large lettuces, and let these boil for fully fif- 
 teen minutes. Whilst they are boiling, make a 
 forcemeat with the livers of the birds, a slice of 
 bacon, two or three leaves of tarragon, two shal- 
 lots, and a spoonful of parsley, all finely minced, 
 seasoned with pepper and salt, and bound to- 
 gether with the beaten yolk of an egg. Take up 
 the lettuces, press the water from them, open 
 them, without taking off the leaves, Une them 
 ■with the forcemeat, and place a pigeon inside 
 each lettuce so as to be hid entirely. Tie the 
 ends with thread, and stew all gently together 
 in as much stock as will cover the pigeons. A 
 bunch of parsley, a carrot, an onion, two cloves, 
 and half a blade of mace may be put into the 
 saucepan to flavour the gravy. Whgn the 
 
 pigeons are done enough take them up, drain 
 them, and remove the twine. Keep them liot 
 before the fire, whilst the sauce is strained and 
 thickened with a dessert-spoonful of brown 
 thickening. Serve the pigeons in the lettuces 
 on a hot dish, with the sauce poured round 
 them. Time, one hour to stew the pigeons. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 4d. Sufficient for two persons. 
 
 PIGEONS, ESCALOPES OF, IN CASES. 
 
 Prepare as many birds as are required, by 
 boning them, and filling them with any suitable 
 forcemeat. They may then be braised or 
 roasted, and left to cool, when they should be 
 cut in slices the third of an inch thick. Have 
 ready some paper cases, and put in each some 
 dressed salad. Lay a slice of pigeon in each, 
 and mask it with mayonnaise or chopped aspic. 
 
 PIGEONS, ESCALOPES OF, WITH TRUFFLES. 
 
 Prepare the cases as above ; sprinkle the slices 
 with chopped truffle, and cover with pale aspic. 
 Put a border of chopped aspic round the cases, 
 with little rings or other devices of truffles, and 
 small pieces of foie gras. 
 
 PIGEONS, FORCEMEAT FOR. 
 
 {See POECEMEAT, FOB PiGEONS.) 
 
 PIGEONS, FRICANDEAU OF. 
 
 Pluck and draw four plump young pigeons, 
 and stuff them with a forcemeat made of the 
 livers of the birds, finely minced, mixed with an 
 equal quantity of finely-shredded suet and of 
 finely-grated bread'-oriimbs, a table-spoonful of 
 shredded parsley, and a pinch of powdered 
 thyme. Season the mixture with salt and cay- 
 enne, and bind it together with beaten yolk of 
 egg. Truss the pigeons as if for roasting, and 
 lard their breasts delicately with very slender 
 lardoons. Line the bottom of a braising-pan 
 with slices of fat bacon. Place a thin layer of 
 veal on this, and then the pigeons, breast to 
 breast. Put another layer of veal and of bacon 
 over the pigeons, pour upon them a pint of good 
 stock, and add any bones or trimmings of meat 
 or poultry that may be at hand, together with a 
 blade of mace, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of 
 thyme, a glass of sherry, and a little pepper and 
 salt. Cover the saucepan closely, and let the 
 birds stew gently for an hour. Lift out the 
 pigeon's, strain and skim the gravy, and boil it 
 down quickly until it is much reduced. Put in 
 the pigeons once more, and baste them liberally 
 until they are sufficiently glazed. Serve on a 
 hot dish, with the sauce poured round them. 
 Probable cost, 5s. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 PIGEONS, FRICASSEED, BROWN. 
 
 Take three plump young pigeons ; make them 
 ready for boiling, and season with a little pep- 
 per, salt, and powdered mace. Put them into a 
 stewpan, with three ounces of clarified butter, 
 and turn them about until they are brightly 
 browned all over. Take them up, drain them 
 well, and put them into, a clean saucepan with 
 half a pint of nicely-seasoned stock and a glass 
 of claret. Add a bunch of parsley, a small sprig 
 of thyme, three inches of thin lemon-rind, five 
 or six small onions, a little pepper and salt, and 
 a few grains of cayenne. Cover the saucepan 
 closely, and let the pigeons stew gently for half 
 
PIG 
 
 545 
 
 PIG 
 
 ah hour; take them up, thicken the liquor with 
 brown thickening, and add a few small mush- 
 rooms and a table-spoonful of lemon-juice. When 
 the sauce is smooth, heat the birds in it again, 
 dish them, and pour the gravy over them. 
 This recipe may be varied in several ways. A few 
 veal forcemeat balls may be boiled in the gravy, 
 or ii dozen oysters may be fried and laid over 
 the birds, and the dish may be garnished with 
 J sliopd lemon, toasted sippets, or strips of curled 
 
 bacon. Probable cost, 3b., exclusive of the 
 wine and garnishes, Sufficient for three or 
 four persons. 
 
 PIGEONS, FRICASSEE OF. 
 
 Cut the remains of some cold roast pigeons 
 into neat joints, and stew them very gently in 
 some good rich thickened gravy, nicely fla- 
 voured with onion, for about twenty minutes; 
 then add twelve small button mushrooms, and 
 serve in a border of mashed potatoes. 
 
 PIGEONS, FRIED. 
 
 Pluck, singe, and draw two young pigeons, 
 and truss them as if for boiling. Spread a little 
 clarified butter over them, and dredge them well 
 with flour. Lay two or three rashers of bacon 
 in a stewpan, place the pigeons upon these, 
 season with salt and - pepper, and turn them 
 about until they are nicely browned' all over. 
 Add half a cupful of water, and steam them 
 until done enough. Take them up, drain them 
 
 I well, dip them into^some frying batter, and let 
 
 them be entirely covered with it. Fry in hot 
 fat until they are brightly browned, and serve 
 I on a hot dish. Garnish the dish with parsley, 
 
 and send the gravy to table in a tureen. The 
 frying batter may be made as follows. Make 
 five ounces of dried flour into a paste by stirring 
 into it half a pint of water. Mix two table- 
 spoonfuls of oil smoothly with the well-beaten 
 yolks of two eggs, and add a pinch of salt ; mix 
 these ingredients with the flour and water. The 
 batter ought to be rather thicker than cream. 
 If it appears too thick, a little more water must 
 be added — some flours require less liquid than 
 i others. Just before the batter is used, stir into 
 it the whites of the eggs whisked to a firm froth. 
 Time, half an hour to steam pigeons; ten or 
 twelve minutes to fry them. Probable cost, 
 2s. 2d. Sufficient for two persons. 
 
 PIGEONS IN A MOULD OF JELLY 
 
 Eoaet two plump young pigeons, prepare 
 them by cutting off the ends of the toes, clean- 
 ing and singeing the heads, sprinkling salt and 
 pepper in the inside, and trussing the birds with 
 (; the heads tied in their natural position, by 
 means of a piece of thread fastened round the 
 neck, the feet being bent under the body as if 
 I the birds were sitting. Bake the birds, and be 
 [! careful that they are equally browned all over. 
 i: As soon as they are done enough, cover them to 
 ; preserve their colour. Take a quart of the 
 
 liquid in which a knuckle of veal or a couple 
 / of calf's feet have been boiled, and which 
 
 forms a strong jelly when cold. Free it from 
 fat and sediment, and boil it with a bunch of 
 sweet herbs, a blade of mace, a sprig of thyme, 
 two bay-leaves, three or four cloves, and a little 
 salt, and when the liquid is nicely flavoured 
 let it cool, and clear it by boiling with it the 
 35 
 
 beaten whites and crushed shells of two eggs — 
 mixed with a cupful of cold water — and strain- 
 ing it through a jelly-bag. Pour a little of this 
 jefly, about an inch and a half deep, into the 
 mould intended for the pigeons. When it is set 
 without being quite hard, put the birds side by 
 side into it, with the heads and backs down- 
 wards, and with a sprig of myrtle in the bill of 
 each. Fill up the mould with the rest of the 
 jelly, which should cover the feet at least an 
 inch and a half, and leave it in a cool place until 
 it is quite hard. Pigeons in the mould of jelly 
 make a very pretty supper dish, where a large 
 number and variety of dishes are required. 
 They should be prepared fully twenty-four hours 
 before they are wanted, and the mould should 
 be kept on ice, if possible. The contents must 
 be turned out before serving. Time, twenty to 
 thirty miautes to bake the pigeons. Probable 
 cost, 4s. Sufficient for a two-quart mould. 
 
 PIGEONS, JUGGED. 
 
 Pluck, singe, and draw three or four freshly- 
 killed young pigeons. Stuff them with a force- 
 meat made as follows. Mince the livers finely, 
 and mix with them an equal weight of finely- 
 shredded suet and of finely-grated bread-crumbs, 
 the peel of a quarter of a lemon chopped small, 
 the bruised yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, a 
 table-spoonful of chopped parsley, a pinch of 
 powdered thyme, and a little salt, pepper, and 
 grated nutmeg. Mix the ingredients thoroughly, 
 and moisten them with an ounce of fresh butter, 
 and a well-beaten egg. Fill the crops of the 
 pigeons with this mixture, and tie or sew the 
 vents securely. Brown the birds in a stewpan 
 over the fire with a little hot fat ; dredge a little 
 pepper and salt over them, and put them into 
 an earthen jar, with a handful of parsley, a 
 sprig of thyme, half a dozen peppercorns, half a 
 head of celery cut into small pieces, three 
 cloves, a small nutmeg, grated, a glass of claret, 
 and half a pint of stock or water. Cover the 
 jar either with a closely-fitting lid or with three 
 or four folds of paper tied over it. Put it into 
 a saucepan of boiling water, which must be 
 kept boiling until the pigeons are done, being 
 careful only that the water is not so high that 
 it can enter the jar. When the pigeons are 
 done enough, strain the gravy into a saucepan, 
 stir a spoonful of brown thickening into it, and 
 let it boil a few minutes. Serve the pigeons on 
 a hot dish, with the gravy poured over and 
 around them, and g£j,rnished with slices of 
 lemon. This dish may be iricreased in quantity 
 by the addition of a pound of rump steak. This 
 should be cut into very thin slices, over which a 
 little of the forcemeat may be spread evenly 
 and thinly. The slices should then be rolled up, 
 tied with a little thread to preserve their form, 
 and cooked with the pigeons. Time to boil the 
 pigeons, one and a half hours. Probable cost, 
 exclusive of the steak and wine, 3s. Sufficient 
 for three or four persons. 
 
 PIGEON SOUP. 
 
 Take half a dozen plump pigeons and roast 
 them lightly. Pick off the best of the meat and 
 lay it aside. Flour the bones well, and crush 
 them in a mortar. Cut into small pieces a large 
 carrot, an onion, an ounce of lean ham, and half 
 a head of celery, and fry these in butter with a 
 
PIG 
 
 546 
 
 PIG 
 
 bay-leaf, a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of 
 thyme, three cloves, and half a blade of macs. 
 Stir these ingredients over the fire nntil they 
 are brightly browned. Add the crushed bodies 
 of the birds and one ounce of brown thickening 
 — or, failing this, a lump of butter rolled in 
 flour — and moisten the whole with a quart of 
 stock or water. Bring the liquid to the boil, 
 skim thoroughly, let it simmer gently for an 
 hour, then strain the soup, and pulp the vege- 
 tables through a tamis. Pour the soup back 
 into the pot, add the flesh of the pigeons, and 
 pepper and salt if required. Skim it again, and 
 serve very hot. Time, altogether, about three 
 hours. Probable cost, 5s. 6d. Sufficient for 
 eight or nine persons. 
 
 PIGEONS, PATE CHAUD OF. 
 
 Make some stiff paste as follows. Boil four 
 ounces of lard in half a pint of water. Stir this 
 while hot with a pound of flour to which a little 
 salt has been added, and work the whole into a 
 stiff, smooth paste. Shape two-thirds of it 
 according to the directions given for shaping 
 raised pies, fill it with bran or flour, roll out 
 the untouched piece of paste, place it on the 
 top as a lid, ornament in any way that may be 
 preferred, brush over with beaten egg, and bake 
 in a well-heated oven. When the paste is done 
 enough, cut out the lid, remove the bran care- 
 fully, and fill the pie with stewed pigeons. Put 
 with them stewed mushrooms, or any other gar- 
 nish, and pour a little poivrade sauce over the 
 whole. Serve as hot as possible. The shell of 
 this pie may be made and baked the day before 
 it is wanted, and put into the oven to heat when 
 the pigeons are ready for serving. Time to 
 bake, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 
 5S. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 PIGEONS, PIQUANT. 
 
 Slice a large onion and put it into a shallow 
 dish with two bay-leaves, twenty juniper berries, 
 half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, and a quarter 
 of a pint of vinegar. Lay two pigeons in this 
 marinade, and turn and baste them twice a day 
 for two days. If the birds are old they will 
 need to remain in the marinade a day or two 
 longer. Take them up, wipe them dry, and lard 
 the breasts evenly, then put them into a sauce- 
 pan with an ounce of butter, and turn them 
 about over a moderate fire until they are 
 brightly and equally browned. Lift them out, 
 stir a spoonful of flour in with the butter, and 
 mix it briskly with a wooden spoon until it 
 begins to colour, then add four ounces of fat 
 bacon cut into small pieces, the liver of the 
 birds, a cupful of stock or water, the strained 
 juice of half a lemon with an inch or two of the 
 rind, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nut- 
 meg. Let this sauce boil, then put in the 
 pigeons, cover them closely, and let them stew 
 for half an hour. Serve the birds on a hot dish 
 with the sauce poured round them. Time to 
 stew, about an hour. Probable cost, 2s. Suf- 
 ficient for two persons. 
 
 PIGEONS, PUPTON OF. 
 
 Butter a pie-dish rather thickly, and line the 
 inside with a highly-seasoned veal forcemeat 
 about three-quarters of an inch in thickness. 
 Lay upon this three or four thin slices of fat 
 
 bacon, three plump young pigeons split in 
 halves and fiattened, a blanched sweetbread cut 
 into slices, an ox palate boiled tender and cut 
 up small, a dozen asparagus tops with as many 
 button mushrooms, and the yolks of four hard- 
 boiled eggs. Cover the whole with a layer of 
 forcemeat spread on the top like a pie-crust, and 
 bake in a well-heated oven. Serve the pupton 
 turned on a hot dish, with rich brown gravy 
 poured round it. Time to bake, from two to 
 three hours. Probable cost, 6s. Sufficient for 
 six or seven persons. 
 
 PIGEONS, RAGOUT OF. 
 
 Pluck, singe, and draw a couple of young 
 pigeons, cleanse and open the gizzards, and stew 
 them with the livers in as much water as will 
 cover them, until they are done enough. Mince 
 all finely, and mix with them their weight in 
 finely-shredded beef suet and grated bread- 
 crumbs. Add a table-spoonful of chopped pars- 
 ley, a pinch of powdered thyme, and a little 
 pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Moisten the 
 forcemeat with a well-beaten egg and half an 
 ounce of butter, and with it cover the yolks of 
 two hard-boiled eggs, and put these balls inside 
 the birds. Truss the pigeons securely, as if 
 for boiling, and brown them in a little hot 
 butter. Pour over them the liquid in which the 
 gizzards were boiled, and add a sliced onion, a 
 tea-spoonful of brown thickening, a glass of 
 claret, a bunch of savoury herbs, and a little 
 pepper, salt, and powdered mace. Simmer 
 gently for twenty minutes, then strain the 
 gravy, pour it back into the saucepan, put six 
 or eight button mushrooms into it, stew about 
 half an hour longer, and serve. A few force- 
 meat-balls stewed for eight or ten minutes in the 
 gravy are a great improvement to this .ragout. 
 Probable cost, 2s., exclusive of the wine. Suf- 
 ficient for two or three persons. 
 
 PIGEONS, ROAST. 
 
 Pluck, singe, and draw a couple of young 
 pigeons, and truss them firmly. Mince the 
 livers, and mix with them two ounces of finely- 
 grated bread-crumbs, two ounces of fresh but- 
 ter, or, if preferred, finely-shredded beef suet, r, 
 shallot finely minced, a tea-spoonful of shredded 
 parsley, and a little salt, pepper, and grated 
 nutmeg. Pill the birds with this forcemeat, 
 fasten a slice of fat bacon over the breast of 
 each, and roast before a clear fire. Make a 
 sauce by mixing a little water with the gravy 
 which drops from the birds, and boiling it with 
 a little thickening; season it with pepper, salt, 
 and chopped parsley. Pigeons are sometimes 
 served on toast, and brown gravy and bread 
 sauce sent to table with them. Time to roast, 
 twenty to twenty-five minutes. Probable cost 
 of pigeons, 9d. to Is. 9d. each. Sufiicient for 
 two persons. • 
 
 PIGEONS, ROAST (another way). 
 
 Eoasted pigeons require a brisk fire, and must 
 be well done, and at the same time afford gravy 
 when cut into. Boast the birds, with stuffing 
 in the belly, prepared as follows. Take the 
 livers and hearts of the pigeons, and about 
 double the quantity of the fat of ham or bacon, 
 and beat these ingredients in a mortar to a 
 smooth paste. Moisten some crumb of bread 
 
PIG 
 
 547 
 
 PIG 
 
 with milk, then press out the milk through a 
 napkin. Add chopped parsley, grated lemon- 
 peel, black pepper, and salt; unite these with 
 white and yolk of egg beaten together, divide 
 the mass into equal portions, and stuff the birds. 
 As pigeons possess scarcely any fat, they are 
 often, while roasting, basted with butter. By 
 way of sauce, melt some butter with a little 
 flour, moisten with veal consomme, and stir in 
 some chopped parsley. Sprinkle the pigeons 
 with a little sauce, and then pour the remainder 
 over them. 
 
 PIGEONS, SERVED WITH WATER-CRESS. 
 
 Eoast a couple of young pigeons in the usual 
 way. Wash and pick two or three bunches of 
 young water-cress, and dry them well. To do 
 this, put them into a dry cloth, take hold of 
 this by the four corners, and shake the leaves 
 until they are dry. Put them> on a dish, sprinkle 
 a little salt over them, lay the pigeons upon 
 them, and pour brown gravy over. The cress 
 is sometimes arranged round the dish instead 
 of being placed under the birds. Time, about 
 , twenty minutes to roast the pigeons. Prob- 
 able cost, 2s. Sufficient for two persons. 
 
 PIGEONS, STEWED. 
 
 Pluck and draw two plump young pigeons, 
 and divide them into quarters. Put these into 
 a stewpan with a little salt, and a email quan- 
 tity of water, say as much as will three-parts 
 cover them. Place the lid on the saucepan, and 
 let the birds stew gently until they are almost 
 done, then add a pinch of pepper, and half an 
 ounce of fresh butter, and let them simmer 
 again until they are sufficiently cooked. Take[ 
 them up, thicken the gravy with a teajspbonful' 
 of flour mixed smoothly in it, and add two 
 table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley. Let it boil, 
 then draw it from the fire, let it cool for a 
 minute, and stir into it a well-beaten egg. Put 
 the pigeons in again to get hot, and serve im- 
 mediately. The gravy must not boil after the 
 egg is added. A little cream is a great im- 
 provement to this dish, though it may be dis- 
 pensed with. Time, twenty minutes to stew 
 the pigeons. Probable cost. Is. 9d. Sufficient 
 for two persons. 
 
 PIGEONS, STEWED (another way). 
 
 Truss four plump young pigeons as if for 
 boiling; cover their breasts with thin slices of 
 fat bacon tied securely on with twine, and stew 
 them in a little veal broth according to the 
 directions given for Stewed Pigeons. Whilst 
 the pigeons are stewing, prepare a mixture of 
 vegetables, such as French beans, carrots, tur- 
 nips, and cauliflowers, and arrange so that 
 they shall be done enough at the same time as 
 the birds. Take a piece of the stale crumb of 
 bread, and shape it neatly, making it three and 
 a half inches high, the bottom part four inches 
 square, and the top part two and a half inches 
 square. Pry this in hot butter until it is 
 lightly browned all over, then drain it from the 
 fat, and fix it in the middle of a dish with paste 
 made of the white of egg mixed smoothly with 
 a little flour. Take up the pigeons, and lean 
 one bird against each side of the piece of 
 fried bread. Arrange the vegetables between 
 the pigeons, so as to hide the bread entirely 
 
 from view, and ornament the top with a cauli- 
 flower, or half a dozen Brussels sprouts. Pour 
 ^ a little white sauce over the pigeons only, and 
 send a little more to table in a tureen. Time, 
 about an hour to stew the pigeons. Probable 
 cost of pigeons, from 9d. to la. 9d. each. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 
 PIGEONS, STEWED (another way). 
 
 Make a stuffing with pigeons' livers parboiled 
 and bruised in a mortar, add bread-crumbs, . 
 butter, pepper, salt, pounded cloves, parsley, 
 sweet herbs chopped small, and the yolk of an 
 egg. Fill the birds with this stuffing, and tie 
 them up at both ends. Half roast or fry them, 
 then place them in good gravy or beef broth, 
 along with an onion stuck with cloves, a bunch 
 of sweet herbs, and a slice of lemon. Stew the 
 pigeons very gently for about an hour, strain 
 and skim off the fat, add pickled mushrooms, 
 hard-yolk-of-egg balls and forcemeat balls. It 
 is an improvement to lard the pigeons. 
 
 PIGEONS, STEWED, WITH ASPARAGUS. 
 
 Prepare and stew the pigeons as in either of 
 the two last recipes. Cut off the green tender 
 points from fifty heads of asparagus, and divide 
 these into pieces not more than the third of an 
 inch in length. Wash them well, and blanch 
 them in boiling water. When the pigeons are 
 almost done enough, put in the asparagus, and 
 simmer again until they are tender. Time, 
 about an hour to stew the asparagus. Probable 
 cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 PIGEONS, STEWED, WITH CABBAGE. 
 
 • Pluck, singe, and draw two' pigeons, and stuff, 
 them with a forcemeat mads as follows., Mince, 
 the livers finely,i and mix with them, an equal; 
 quantity of finely-shredded beef suet, and grated 
 bread-crumbs. Add a little pepper, salt, and 
 grated nutmeg, a table-spoonful of chopped 
 parsley, and a salt-spoonful of powdered thyme. 
 Moisten the whole with the yolk of a beaten egg. 
 Truss the pigeons firmly, as if for boiling. Half 
 boil a good-sized white cabbage, and shred it 
 finely. Drain thoroughly, and lay it at the 
 bottom of a stewpan. Place the pigeons upon 
 it, cover them with white stock, put the lid on 
 the saucepan, and stew the whole gently till 
 quite tender, then add a lump of butter, the 
 size of an egg, rolled in flour, and two table- 
 spoonfuls of thick cream. Stew a few minutes 
 longer, and serve as hot as possible. The 
 pigeons should be placed on a hot dish with the 
 cabbage and sauce round them. Probable cost, 
 2s. 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 PIGEONS, STEWED, WITH GREEN PEAS. 
 
 Pluck, draw, and singe two plump young 
 pigeons. Cut off the heads and necks, put the 
 livers back into the inside, truss securely, as if 
 for boiling, and tie the pigeons with twine 
 instead of skewering them. Cut half a pound 
 of streaky bacon into small pieces, and put these 
 into a stewpan with the pigeons and one ounce 
 of butter. Place them on a moderate fire, and 
 move them about until they are equally and 
 lightly browned all over. Take, the birds up, 
 drain them, make a roux by mixing an ounce of 
 flour smoothly with the fat in the saucepan, 
 moisten with a pint of stock, and stir the gravy 
 over the flre until it boils. Strain it, and put it 
 
PIG 
 
 548 
 
 PIG 
 
 into a clean atewpan with the pigeons, the 
 bacon, a bunch of parsley, a Bmall sprig of 
 thyme, and a pint of freshly-gathered shelled 
 green peas, and a little pepper and salt if re- 
 quired. Simmer gently till the peas are done, 
 take out the herbs, and place the pigeons on a 
 hot dish with the gravy poured over them and 
 the peas and bacon round them. Probable 
 cost, 3s. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 PIGEONS, STEWED, WITH GREEN PEAS 
 
 (another way). 
 Prepare the pigeons, and brown them in 
 butter, as in the last recipe. Take them up, 
 drain them, and cut them into halves length- 
 wise. Put them side by side in a stewpau with 
 two ounces of butter rolled in flour. When this 
 is dissolved, put in a pint of freshly-gathered 
 young green peas, and a table-spoonful of nicely- 
 seasoned veal stock. Cover the saucepan closely, 
 and let the pigeons stew very gently until they 
 and the peas are done enough, moving the pan 
 about occasionally to prevent its contents burn- 
 ing. Serve the birds on a hot dish with the 
 sauce and vegetables arranged around them. 
 Time, twenty minutes to stew the pigeons. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 8d. Sufficient for two or 
 three persons. 
 
 PIGEONS, STEWED, WITH MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Pluck, draw, and singe two plump young 
 house pigeons. Cut off their heads and necks, 
 and truss them with the legs inwards, as if for 
 boiling. Put the birds into a stewpan with half 
 a pound of streaky bacon cut into small pieces, 
 and an ounce' of fresh butter, and turn them 
 about until they are equally and lightly 
 browned, then take them up, drain them, and 
 mix one ounce of fine flour smoothly with the 
 butter in which they were fried. Moisten the 
 roux with a pint of gravy or water, and a table- 
 spoonful of mushroom ketchup, add a little pep- 
 per, salt, and cayenne, and stir the gravy over 
 the fire until it boils, then strain it, and put it 
 into a clean saucepan with the pigeons, the 
 fried bacon, a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of 
 thyme, and a dozen button onions. Simmer 
 gently for half an hour, take out the herbs, add 
 a dozen small mushrooms, and stew ten minutes 
 longer. Serve the birds on a hot dish, with the 
 gravy poured over them, and the bacon, onions, 
 and mushrooms put with them. Probable cost, 
 3s. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 PIGEONS, STUFFED AND ROASTED. 
 
 Pluck, draw, and singe two plump young 
 pigeons, and fill them witn a forcemeat made as 
 follows. Mince the livers finely, and mix with 
 them the same quantity of finely-sliced suet and 
 grated bread-crumbs. Add a little pepper, salt, 
 and pounded mace, a heaped table-spoonful of 
 chopped parsley, and a pinch of powdered 
 thymfe, and moisten the whole with beaten yolk 
 of egg. Truss the birds firmly, tie thin slices of 
 bacon over the breasts, and put them down to a 
 clear fire. To make the gravy, mix any which 
 drops from the birds with half a cupful of toil- 
 ing stock or water. Add a table-spoonful of 
 claret, a little of the forcemeat, season with 
 salt, cayenne, and grated nutmeg, and thicken 
 the whole with the yolk of egg well beaten. 
 Serve the birds on a hot dish, with the sauce 
 
 poured round them, and a little bread sauce in 
 a tureen. Time to roast the pigeons, from 
 twenty to thirty minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 Sufficient for two persons." 
 
 PIGEONS, STUFFED AND STEWED. 
 
 Pluck and draw two plump, freshly-killed 
 young pigeons, and truss them as for boiling. 
 Mince the livers finely, and mix with them twice 
 thair bulk of highly-seasoned bread-crumbs, half 
 a jalt-spoonful of chopped lemon-rind, half a 
 salt-spoonful of powdered thyme, a tea-spoon- 
 ful of chopped parsley, and the yolk of a hard- 
 boiled egg crushed to powder. Fill the birds 
 with this forcemeat, and put in each half au 
 ounce of fresh butter. Lay them breast down- 
 wards into a small stewpan, and barely cover 
 them with veal stock or, failing this, water. 
 Let them stew gently until they are done 
 enough, then take them up, strain the gravy, 
 thicken with two table-spoonfuls of flour mixed 
 smoothly with two table-spoonfuls of cream, and 
 the yolks of two eggs, and season with a little 
 pepper, salt, and powdered mace. Stir the sauce 
 over the fire until it is quite hot without boil- 
 ing, put in the pigeons for a minute to heat, 
 and serve immediately. A few stewed mush- 
 rooms is a great improvement to this dish. 
 Time, about an hour to stew the pigeons. Prob- 
 able cost, 2s., with pigeons at 9d. each. Suf- 
 ficient for two or three persons. 
 
 PIGEONS, STUFFED WITH CHESTNUTS, AND 
 ROASTED. 
 
 Take a dozen sound chestnuts. Peel off the 
 brown skin, throw them into boiling water, and 
 let them remain for two minutes, then blanch 
 them like almonds. Weigh them, and mix with 
 every three ounces an equal weight of fat bacon, 
 minced as finely as possible, an ounce of finely- 
 grated bread-crumbs, and a little salt, cayenne, 
 and grated nutmeg. Pound the mixture thor- 
 oughly, and moisten with beaten yolk of egg. 
 Stuff two pigeons with this forcemeat, truss 
 them firmly, cover their breasts with a slice of 
 fat bacon and a vine-leaf, and roast them before 
 a clear fire. Serve on a hot dish, with the 
 bacon and vine-leaves over them, and send 
 nicely-seasoned brown gravy to table in a tureen. 
 Time to roast the pigeons, twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for two persons. 
 
 PIGEONS, TRUSSED. 
 
 Pigeons need to be very carefully plucked and 
 cleaned, and they should, if possible, be drawn 
 
 PIGEONS, TETTSSBD. 
 
 as soon as they are killed. They are very good 
 roasted with a slice of bacon over the breast, and 
 a vine-leaf under the bacon. To truss for 
 
PIG 
 
 549 
 
 PIK 
 
 roasting: — Cut off the head and neck, cut ofE 
 the toes at the first joint, and wash the birds 
 well. Dry them carefully, truss the wings over 
 the back, and pass a skewer through the wings 
 and body. The gizzard may be cleaned and put 
 under one of the wings. To truss for boiling: — 
 Cut off the legs at the first joint, put the 
 legs into the body, and skewer the pinions 
 back. 
 
 PIGEONS, VOL-AU-VENT OF. 
 
 Roll out a piece of puff-paste (see Puff-paste) 
 to the shape and size of the dish in which it is 
 intended to serve the vol-au-vent. It should be 
 a little more than an inch in thickness. Make 
 a knife hot in water, and with it mark the cover 
 evenly an inch from the edge all round. Orna- 
 ment the border in any way that may be pre- 
 ferred, and brush the vol-au-vent quickly over 
 with yolk of egg. Put it at once into, a brisk 
 oven. When it is suificiently risen and brightly 
 coloured, take it out. Take off the marked cover 
 carefully, and scoop out the soft paste from the 
 inside, without injuring the outside. Put the 
 vol-au-vent back into the oven for a few min- 
 utes to dry, and fill it with the pigeons and 
 sweetbreads prepared as follows. Divide two 
 freshly-killed young pigeons into neat joints. 
 Put two veal sweetbreads into a saucepan, cover 
 them with lukewarm water, and set them over 
 the fire until the water boils; then lift them 
 out, and plunge them at once into cold water. 
 Cut them into neat pieces of uniform shape and 
 size, ' and bind these securely together with 
 twine. Put the sweetbreads, with the ,pigeons, 
 into a stewpan, pour a cupful of water . over 
 them, and add an onion, a bunch of parsley, a 
 small sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a slice of fat 
 bacon, half an ounce of butter rolled in flour, 
 and a little pepper and salt. Simmer gently for 
 half an hour, then remove the twine from the 
 sweetbreads, strain and thicken the gravy if 
 necessary, and fill the vol-au-vent with the fri- 
 cassee. The sauce must be very thick, or it 
 will soften the light pastry. Probable cost, 4s. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 PIGEONS, WITH RICE AND PARMESAN. 
 
 Stew until tender three or four plump young 
 pigeons according to the directions given for 
 PiGBOUS, Stewed. Boil half a pound of best 
 Carolina rice in a pint of stock, and add to it, 
 if necessary, a, seasoning of salt, pepper, and 
 grated nutmeg. When it is tender, throw in an 
 ounce of grated Parmesan, and shake the sauce- 
 pan until the cheese is dissolved. If there is 
 any danger of the cheese oiling, add a little 
 more stock. Put the pigeons on a hot dish, 
 spread half the rice round them, and cover them 
 with the remainder. Brush the rice over with 
 beaten egg, strew grated Parmesan thickly over, 
 and bake in a slow oven until the rice is brightly 
 coloured. The best way of doing this is to 
 spread a layer of salt upon a flat baking-tin, 
 put the dish containing the pigeons and rice 
 upon this, and serve them on the dish in which 
 they are baked. If preferred, macaroni may be 
 used instead of rice. Time, half an hour to 
 ' stew the pigeons ; about an hour to boil the 
 rice; about a quarter of an hour to bake 
 it. Probable cost, 3s. ' Sufficient for four 
 persons. 
 
 PIKE. 
 
 This fish is found in most of the lakes of 
 Europe, particularly in the north. Naturalists 
 have disputed as to whether it is indigenous in 
 England, but the opinion of the best authorities 
 is that sufficient proof exists of its being a 
 native. The size of the English pike is con- 
 siderable. Instances have been known of their 
 attaining the length of three feet, and the 
 weight of forty pounds. In Lapland and Russia 
 they have been found eight feet long. The 
 usual colour of the pike is a pale olive grey. 
 
 
 a****'**'"'-. 
 
 <$?»... 
 
 THE PIKE. 
 
 deepest on the back, and marked on the sides- 
 by several yellowish spots or patches ; the abdo- 
 men is white, slightly spotted with black; the 
 mouth is furnished with a prodigious number 
 of teeth. The pike is so voracious that he is 
 often called the fresh-water shark. He attacks 
 and devours all smaller fish, and sometimes falls 
 a victim to his own greed by his inability to 
 swallow a fish that is half engulfed in his capa- 
 cious throat. Pike may be plainly boiled or 
 cut into pieces, marinaded, and fried. They 
 may be eaten with any sauce. The roe of the 
 pike is made into a caviare, and in some coun- 
 tries the fish is salted and dried. It was at one 
 time a very popular article of food, and is 
 still considered a good fish for the table when, 
 properly prepared. 
 
 PIKE (i la Genevoise). 
 
 Pike which has lost its first freshness is some- 
 times stewed in rich stock and wine, so as to 
 disguise its condition. For fresh fish this mode 
 of cookery is quite unnecessary. Clean the pike 
 well, without scaling it. Put it into a fish- 
 kettle just large enough to contain it, and strain 
 over it as much hot court bouillon — mixed with 
 whatever proportion of wine may be wished — 
 as will cover it. Set it on the fire, and let rt 
 stew gently until done enough. Drain the pike, 
 and scale it thoroughly. Put it into a clean 
 pan with as much of the liquid as will moisten 
 it, and add half a pint of white stock, a little 
 salt and cayenne, a tea-spoonful of essence of 
 anchovies, and a table-spoonful of lemon-juice. 
 Thicken the sauce with a tea-spoonful of 
 roux, or with a small lump of butter rolled in 
 flour. Let it boil until smooth. Lay the fish 
 on a hot dish, strain part of the sauce over it, 
 and send the rest to table in a tureen. Couj't 
 bouillon is a sort of broth which is made to boil 
 fresh-water fish in ; it may be used several times 
 if it is boiled up every four days with an addi- 
 tional pint of water. Each successive boiliijg 
 will make it richer. It is prepared as follows. 
 Boil a sliced carrot, an onion, a bunch pf 
 
paK 
 
 550 
 
 PIK 
 
 parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, half a dozen 
 peppercorns, half a dozen cloves, and a shallot, 
 with an oimce of fresh butter, for ten minutes. 
 Add two quarts of water and half a pint of 
 vinegar, and simmer the liquid gently for an 
 hour. Strain it, and, if liked, before using it, 
 mix a little light wine with it. This bouillon 
 will be found an excellent foundation for fish 
 sauces. (iS'ee also Court Bouillon, with vtine.) 
 Some cooks pour boiling vinagar over the pike, 
 and let the fish lie in it for two or three days 
 before dressing as above. Time to boil, accord- 
 ing to size. A medium-sized pike will take half 
 an hour. When the flesh will leave the bones 
 easily the fish is done enough. 
 
 PIKE (k la Venitienne). 
 
 Scrape and clean the fish well, remove the in- 
 .side and cut the fins off. Place the pike whole 
 in a fish-kettle, with half a tumblerful of white 
 wine, two pints of warm water, a bay-leaf, a 
 little whole pepper, a small bunch of parsley, a 
 sliced onion, and salt to taste. Stew over a slow 
 fire for three-quarters of an hour. Let the fish 
 get quite cold in the fish-kettle, then remove it 
 carefully on to a dish. Serve cold with a mayon- 
 naise sauce. 
 
 PIKE, BAKED. 
 
 Take a fresh pike weighing not less than four, 
 nor more than eight, pounds. Wash it thor- 
 oughly, and scale it. The best way to do this 
 is to pour boiling water over it until the scales 
 look dull, then plunge it at once in cold water, 
 and immediately remove the scales with the back 
 of a knife. Wipe the fish dry in every part, fill 
 it with a good veal stuffing, or oyster stuffing, 
 or with forcemeat (see Fike, Stuffing fob). 
 Truss it in a circle by tying the head and tail 
 together, passing the tail between the jaws. 
 Put it into a shallow circular dish, lay half a 
 pound of butter broken into small pieces here 
 -and there upon it, and put with it a pint of 
 broth or water, or flour and water, a minced 
 shallot, and a little chopped parsley. Put it 
 into a moderate oven, and bake until done 
 enough. Baste frequently with the gravy, and 
 be careful that the pike is gently cooked, or it 
 Tvill be dry and unpalatable. When it is done, 
 lift the fish out very carefully, and put it on a 
 lot dish ; then strain the gravy, thicken it with 
 two ounces of butter mixed with two ounces of 
 flour, add a table-spoonful of mushroom ket- 
 chup, or a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, a 
 little salt and cayenne, a glass of sherry, and 
 two or three chopped gherkins. Boil the sauce 
 for ten minutes, pour part of it over the pike, 
 and send the rest to table in a tureen. If pre- 
 ferred, the pike may be baked without being 
 stuffed. Leas time will then be required to 
 cook it. Time to bake a moderate-sized fish, 
 thirty to forty minutes ; for a large fish allow 
 one hour to one hour and a quarter. Sufficient 
 for eight or nine persons. Probable cost, un- 
 certain. It is, of course, impossible to give the 
 exact time required for baking and roasting 
 pike, as it varies with the size of the fish. It 
 may be known, however, that when the flesh 
 leaves the bone easily in the thickest part it is 
 done enough. As pike is naturally a very dry fish, 
 it is important that it should be taken out of the 
 oven as soon as, though not before, it is done. _ 
 
 PIKE, BAKED (another way). 
 
 Wash, scale, and empty the flsh, and dry it 
 perfectly in every part. Pill it or not with 
 forcemeat, as may be preferred, and skewer it 
 with its tail in its mouth. If the fish 
 is not stuffed, sprinkle a little salt and 
 cayenne in the inside, and place an ounce 
 of butter there. Egg and bread-crumb the fish 
 twice. Season the bread-crumbs with salt 
 and cayenne, and mix with them a third of 
 their quantity in shredded parsley. Pour a 
 little clarified butter over the fish, and bake in 
 a moderate oven. Lay a buttered paper over 
 the dish. Any good fish sauce may be sent to 
 table with pike dressed in this way. Time to 
 bake, thirty to forty minutes for a moderate- 
 sized fish. Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. 
 
 PIKE, BOILED. 
 
 Wash, scale, and empty the pike, soak it for 
 half an hour in vinegar and water, and skewer 
 it with its tail in its mouth. Put it into a fish- 
 kettle with as much very hot stock or water as 
 will cover it, and add a table-spoonful of salt, 
 a sliced onion, a bunch of parsley, and half a 
 cupful of vinegar. Bring it to a boil, skim 
 carefully, and simmer it gently until done 
 enough. The time required for boiling will, of 
 course, depend upon the size of the fish. Lift it 
 out carefully, serve on a folded napkin, and 
 send either Dutch, piquant, or caper sauce to 
 table in a tureen. Time to boil a moderate- 
 sized pike, half an hour. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. Probable cost, uncertain. 
 
 PIKE, BOILED (another way). 
 
 Take a pike weighing three or four pounds, 
 which has been kept in a cool larder for two 
 days. Cleanse it thoroughly, remove the gills, 
 and skewer it in a ring, wil^ its tail in its 
 mouth. Put it in a well-tinned fish-kettle, 
 cover with court bouillon (see Pike, A la Gene- 
 voise; also Court Bouillon, with wine), and 
 let it boil gently for forty minutes. Lift 
 it from the fire, and leave it in the liquid 
 until the next day. Half an hour before the 
 pike is to be served, take it up carefully, drain 
 it, preserve the liquid, and clean the kettle 
 thoroughly. Put the flsh and the bouillon back 
 into the pan, and stew gentdy for twenty min- 
 utes. I>rain the flsh, dish it on a napkin, and 
 send caper sauce to table in a tureen. Pike 
 dressed in this way may be eaten cold with 
 mayonnaise sauce. Of course, if desired, the 
 pike may be boiled in court bouillon and served 
 the same day, but the taste of a flsh thus 
 dressed is not to be compared with one which 
 has been allowed to soak in the liquid for several 
 hours. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 Probable cost, uncertain. 
 
 PIKE, COLD, RE-DRESSED. 
 
 Take the remains of a dressed pike, and cut 
 the flesh into neat slices. Season with salt and 
 cayenne, and fry in hot fat until the slices are 
 lightly browned. Drain them from the fat, and 
 dish them neatly. Send to table on a hot dish, 
 with a sauce prepared as follows. Mix smoothly 
 in a stewpan two ounces of fresh butter with an 
 ounce of flour. Add a little pepper and salt, the 
 eighth of a nutmeg, grated, a dessert-spoonful 
 
PJK 
 
 551 
 
 PIK 
 
 of strained lemon-juice, and a table-spoonful 
 of shredded parsley; Pour in half a pint of 
 milk, and stir the sauce over the fire until it is 
 on the point of boiling. Just before sending to 
 table, stir half an ounce of butter into it until 
 it is dissolved. Time, ten minutes to fry the 
 slices. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold 
 fish. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 PIKE, CRIMPED. 
 
 Take a very fresh pike of a good size. Cleanse 
 and scale it, and cut it up, as soon as possible 
 after it is dead, into slices about half an inch 
 thick. Lay these in very cold spring v^ater to 
 crimp them. Put them into boiling salted 
 water, and let them boil gently until they are 
 done enough. Take them up immediately, and 
 serve on a hot dish, with any of the sauces re- 
 commended in the recipe. Pike, Sauces i'ob. 
 Slices of pike crimped in this way may be 
 dipped in egg and bread-crumbs, and fried as 
 well as boiled. They will be found excellent. 
 Time to boil, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 
 uncertain. Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 PIKE, DRESSING OF. 
 
 The pike is at its best' from September to 
 March. Although it is frequently served boiled 
 — and therefore directions are here given for 
 boiling it — it is much better baked or roasted. 
 The roe should always he removed when the fish 
 is cleaned, as it is a strong purgative. Pike is 
 jlDest for baking and boiling when it weighs from 
 1;hree to eight pounds, and for frying when it is 
 quite small, weighing about two pounds. A 
 pike which is too large to be dressed all at once 
 may be divided. The head and tail may be 
 baked or boiled, and the middle cut into thin 
 slices, crimped, and fried. 
 
 PIKE, GRAVY FOR. 
 
 {See, Geiayt roB Pike.) 
 PIKE (Izaak Walton's mode of dressing). 
 
 " First open your pike at the gills, and, if 
 need be, cut also a little slit towards the belly. 
 Out of these take his guts, and keep his liver, 
 which you are to shred very small, with thyme, 
 sweet marjoram, and a little winter savory ; to 
 these put some pickled oysters and some 
 ■anchovies, two or three, both these last whole, 
 for the anchovies will melt and the oysters 
 should not ; to these you must add also a pound 
 of sweet butter, which you are to mix with the 
 herbs that are shred, and let them all be well 
 •salted. ■ If the pike be more than a yard long, 
 then you may put into these herbs more than a 
 pound, or if he be less, then less butter will 
 ■suffice; these being thus mixed with a blade or 
 two of mace, must be put into the pike's belly; 
 and then his belly so sewed up as to keep all the 
 hutter in the belly, if it be possible ; if not, 
 then as much as you possibly can. But take 
 mot off the scales. Then you are to thrust the 
 ispit through his mouth, out at his tail. And 
 then take four, or five, or six split sticks or very 
 thin laths, and a convenient quantity of tape or 
 filleting; these laths are to be tied round about 
 the pike's body from his head to his tail, and 
 the tape tied somewhat thick, to prevent his 
 breaking or falling off from the spit. Let him 
 . be roasted very leisurely, and often basted with 
 «laret wine, and anchovies and butter mixed 
 
 together, and also with what moisture falls from 
 him into the pan. When you have roasted him 
 sufficiently, you are to hold under him, when 
 you unwind or cut the tape that ties him, such 
 a dish as you propose to eat him out of, and let 
 him fall into it, with- the sauce that is roasted 
 in his belly, and by this means the pike will be 
 kept unbroken and complete. Then, to the 
 sauce which was within, and also that sauce fin 
 the pan, you are to add a fit quantity of the 
 best butter, and to squeeze the juice of three 
 or four oranges. Lastly, you may either put it 
 into the pike, with the oysters, two cloves of 
 garlic, and take it whole out when the pike is 
 cut off the spit ; or to give the sauce a liaut 
 gdut, let the dish into which you let the pike 
 fall be rubbed with it ; the using or not using of 
 this garlic is left to your discretion. This dish 
 of meat," says honest Izaak to his companion, 
 " is too good for any but anglers, or very honest 
 men ; and I trust you will prove both, and, 
 .therefore, I have trusted you with this secret." 
 
 PIKE, LARDED AND BAKED. 
 
 Clean and lard a moderate-sized pike as in the 
 next recipe. Stuff it or not, and skewer it with 
 its tail in its mouth. Butter a baking-dish, lay 
 the fish in it, season with salt and cayenne, and 
 pour in half a pint or more of flour and water. 
 Lay little pieces of butter here and there iipon 
 the fish, and bake in a moderate oven. When it 
 is half done strew highly seasoned bread-crumbs 
 over it, baste occasionally, and bake until it is 
 lightly browned. When it is done enough, lift it 
 carefully on to a hot dish, squeeze a little lemon- 
 juice over it, and send piquant, Dutch, or caper 
 sauce to table in a tureen. Time to bake, 
 thirty to forty minutes for a moderate-sized fish. 
 Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 PIKE, LARDED AND ROASTED. 
 
 Scale and cleanse a moderate-sized pike. Re- 
 move the gills, empty the fish, and lard it 
 thickly over with strips of fresh bacon. Fill it 
 with a good veal forcemeat, and sew the body 
 up securely with soft ccrtton. Butter a paper 
 thickly, cover it with sweet herbs and, a little 
 pepper and salt. Wrap the fish in this, lay it 
 in a cradle-spit, and baste with butter. Serve 
 on a hot dish, and send piquant or caper sauce 
 to table in a tureen. If preferred, the pike may 
 be roasted in this way without being larded. 
 Time to roast, twenty-five to thirty-five minutes. 
 Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. 
 
 PIKELETS. 
 
 Whisk two 'eggs thoroughly, and mix with 
 them a pinch of salt, a little grated nutmeg, a 
 pint of lukewarm milk, two pounds of flour, 
 and a table-spoonful of good fresh yeast. Beat 
 the mixture for ten or twelve minutes, put it 
 into a bowl, cover with a cloth, and let it re- 
 main near the fire for two hours, by which time 
 it ought to have risen lightly. Make it into 
 round. cakes, half an inch thick and the size of a 
 saucer. Bake these on a griddle, and when they 
 are done enough on one side, turn them upon the 
 other. Butter the pikelets whilst hot, and send 
 three or four to table together. If any are left 
 till the next day, they should be toasted and 
 buttered like crumpets. Time to bake, three or 
 
PIK 
 
 55-2 
 
 FIK 
 
 four minutes. Probable cost, ^d. each. Suf- 
 ficient, one or two for eacli person. 
 
 PIKELETS (another way). 
 
 Rub an ounce of fresh butter into a pound of 
 flour. Add a pinch of salt, and a well-beaten 
 egg. Put the flour into a bowl, and make a 
 hole in the middle of it. Pour into this a 
 quarter of an ounce of German yeast dissolved 
 in two table-spoonfuls of tepid water. Stir 
 all together, and add as much lukewarm milk 
 as will make the whole like thick batter. Beat 
 for ten or twelve minutes, and let it stand near 
 the flre for an hour. Put the bakestone over a 
 moderate fire. Melt a little butter or lard upon 
 this, and pour over it a tea-cupful of the batter. 
 When one side is done, turn it lightly upon the 
 other. Butter the pikelets whilst hot, and serve 
 them three or four on a plate. The bakestone 
 will require to be freshly greased with each 
 pikelet. Time to bake, about two minutes each 
 side. Sufiicient, one or two for each person. 
 Probable cost, ^d. each. 
 
 PIKE, MATELOTE SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Put a tea-spoonful of sugar into a. stewpan, 
 and place it over a quick fire. When it has dis- 
 *solved, and is beginning to colour, put with 
 it two ounces of fresh butter, and about 
 twenty-five small button onions. Shake these 
 over the fire until they are brown, then add a 
 dessert-spoonful of fiour, a glass of claret, and, 
 gradually, a pint of water or stock. Stir the 
 sauce till it boils, then put with it a bunch of 
 sweet herbs, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper, and a lump of sugar. Sim- 
 mer gently, and skim carefully until the sauce 
 is thick and smooth, and the flavour is drawn 
 out of the herbs ; then stir into it a table-spoon- 
 ful of essence of anchovy, half a tea-spoonful of 
 Bovril, and two or three drops of browning if 
 the sauce is not sufiiciently coloured. A few 
 oysters or mushrooms will improve this sauce. 
 Time to simmer, half an hour. Probable cost, 
 exclusive of the wine, 8d. Sufiicient for a large 
 pike. 
 
 PIKE, POTTED. 
 
 Cut oft the head and tail, cleanse and scale the 
 fish, split it open all the way down, and take 
 out the bones. Wipe it dry, sprinkle bay salt 
 and cayenne over the inside, and roll it tightly. 
 Put it into a jar, and lay little pieces of 
 butter here and there upon it. Lay a buttered 
 paper over it, and bake in a moderate 
 oven until it is done enough. Take it up, 
 drain it, and when it is cold put it into a pot 
 just large enough to contain it,' and cover with 
 clarified butter. Time to bake, according to 
 the size : thirty to forty minutes for a moderate- 
 sized fish; one hour or more for a large one. 
 Probable cost, uncertain. 
 
 PIKE, SAUCES FOR. 
 
 Plain melted butter, brown caper sauce, 
 Dutch sauce, piquant sauce, or anchovy sauce 
 may all be served with pike. Or, if preferred, a 
 sauce may be used prepared as follows. Mix a 
 small tea-spoonful of fiour with as much water 
 as will make it into a smooth paste. Stir this 
 into two ounces of clarified butter. Add a 
 quarter of a pint of milk or cream and a small 
 anchovy which has been freed from skin and 
 
 bone and finely chopped. Stir the sauce over 
 the fire until it is on the point of boiling, then 
 add a table-spoonful of Indian soy, and a little 
 salt and cayenne if necessary. Just before send- 
 ing the sauce to table, stir into it a dessert- 
 spoonful of strained lemon-juice. Time, five 
 minutes to boil the sauce. Probable cost, 5d., if 
 made with milk. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 PIKE, STEWED. 
 
 Clean and scale a pike weighing about four 
 pounds, and cut it into slices three-quarters, of 
 an inch thick. Dissolve two ounces of butter in 
 a stewpan. Put with it a shallot and a small 
 onion finely chopped, a table - spoonful of 
 shredded parsley, two cloves, and a little pep- 
 per and salt. Shake these ingredients over the 
 fire for five or six minutes, then pour over them 
 half a pint of stock or water, a glassful of 
 claret, and a glassful of vinegar. Lay the fish 
 in the stewpan, cover closely, and let it simmer 
 until done enough. Take it up, and lay it on a 
 hot dish. Thicken the sauce with a little fiour 
 and butter, stir into it a table-spoonful of 
 bruised capers, let it boil a minute, and pour it 
 over the fish. Time, altogether, three-quarters 
 of an hour. Probable cost, uncertain. SuflB.cient 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 PIKE, STEWED IN GRAVY. 
 
 Wash and cleanse a pike, and lard it thickly 
 with bacon. Put it in a stewpan, with an 
 ounce of butter, and with slices of veal and 
 bacon under and over it, cover closely, and let 
 it steam gently for a quarter of an hour. Pour 
 upon it half a pint of gravy and a glass of 
 wine, and let it simmer until done enough. 
 Serve on a hot dish, with the gravy in which the 
 fish was stewed poured around it. Time to 
 stew, thirty to forty minutes, according to size. 
 Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. 
 
 PIKE, STUFFING FOR. 
 
 Take as many finely-grated bread-crumbs as 
 will two - thirds fill the body of the pike. 
 Make up the other third with finely-shredded 
 beef suet, and add a liberal seasoning of pepper 
 and salt, two table-spoonfuls of chopped pars- 
 ley, the rind of half a lemon finely-minced, and 
 a tea-spoonful of fennel and chervil. Moisten 
 the mixture with the yolks of one or two eggs. 
 When mushrooms are in season, ha^f a dozen 
 button mushrooms may be minced and added 
 to the rest. Or beard and mince a dozen 
 oysters. Mix with them four ounces of finely- 
 grated bread-crumbs, three ounces of shredded 
 suet, a dessert-spoonful of minced savoury herbs, 
 and a little salt, cayenne, and grated nutmeg. 
 Moisten the whole with the yolk of an egg and 
 the liquor from the oysters, and mix the ingre- 
 dients till they form a smooth paste. The body 
 of the pike should be wiped dry with a. soft 
 cloth before the stuffing is put into it, and it 
 should then be sewed up securely with soft 
 cotton. When a larger quantity of stuffing has 
 been made than is required to fill the fish, it 
 may be made into cakes, which should be fried 
 in butter, and used for garnishing. 
 
 PIKE, WHITE SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Melt one ounce of butter and mix smoothly 
 with it a dessert-spoonful of flour. Stir in 
 
PIL 
 
 553 
 
 PIL 
 
 gradually half a pint of water and let the sauce 
 boil. Add off tlie fire the well-beaten yolks of 
 two fresh eggs with salt and cayenne to season 
 it pleasantly. Stir the sauce over a gentle fire 
 until it is quite hot without boiling, add a few 
 drops of lemon-juice, it liked, and serve. Prob- 
 able cost, 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 PILAFF, 
 
 Clean and soak a breakfast-cupful of rice ; put 
 it into a saucepan with a piece of butter the 
 size of a walnut, a sliced onion, pepper and salt 
 to taste, and a pint of stock. Let this simmer 
 slowly for about twenty minutes until the stock 
 has been entirely absorbed. The rice should 
 then be quite tender, without being in the least 
 degree pulpy. Add two table-spoonfuls of 
 grated cheese attd the same of tomato sauce, and 
 serve very hot. 
 
 PILAU. 
 
 This is an Oriental dish, much liked by thos 
 who have become accustomed to it whilst travel- 
 ling or residing in the East. We are told by 
 travellers that in Turkey and Arabia it is a 
 very simple preparation, consisting generally of 
 poultry or meat too much cooked served with 
 rice under-done, and seasoned with pepper and 
 salt. English families who have resided abroad 
 require a little more than this, however, and for 
 them the succeeding recipes are given. 
 
 PILAU, ARABIAN. 
 
 Take three or four pounds of a neck or loin of 
 mutton. Trim off the fat, and stew the meat 
 gently in four pints of nicely-seasoned stock 
 until it is done enough. Take it up, and put it 
 aside, then throw into the boiling stock a pound 
 of Patna rice, and let it simmer gently for half 
 an hour. Stir in four ounces of fresh butter, 
 and simmer again until the rice is tender with- 
 out being broken. Cut the meat into conveni- 
 ent-sized pieces, fry these lightly in butter, and 
 serve them in the dish with the rice. If liked, 
 the pilau may be garnished with hard-boiled 
 eggs cut into quarters lengthwise, or with force- 
 meat balls, or rings of onion, fried until very 
 dry. Time to boil the mutton, an hour and a 
 half. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. 
 
 PILAU, CHICKEN. 
 
 Take a fat young fowl, put it into a saucepan 
 with about two quarts of water, a large onion 
 (whole), two cloves of garlic, a bay-leaf, three 
 cloves, a small piece of ciunaipon, a blade of 
 mace, twelve cardamom-seeds, and a tea-spoon- 
 ful of salt, and boil till the bird is tender. Then 
 remove the fowl, and put into the liquor a 
 quarter of a pound of the best Patna rice; stir 
 occasionally and watch it closely.' The moment 
 the rice is soft drain it on a wire sieve, and 
 steam it before the fire for about half an hour. 
 Put the chicken on a dish, cover it oyer with the 
 rice, and garnish it with boiled rice, and onions 
 fried brown and crisp. Strain the liquor, and 
 serve it up as soiip. (See also Pilau of Powii.) 
 
 PILAU, INDIAN. 
 
 Take three pounds of the neck or loin of mut- 
 ton or lamb, and divide it into cutlets ; or, 
 if preferred take a chicken, and cut it into neat 
 joints. Chop three large onionfi, and fry them 
 
 in two ounces of butter, with an Indian mango, 
 cut up small. If the mango cannot be had, four 
 ounces of Sultana raisins and a quarter of a 
 clove of garlic may be substitvited ; and 'n this 
 case, two table-spoonfuls of curry-powder may 
 be mixed with the butter. Stir the ingredients 
 over the fire for ten minutes, sprinkle a little^ 
 salt over, and simmer all gently together for 
 three-quarters of an hour. Whilst the meat is 
 simmering, boil the rice according to the direc- 
 tions given for Rice for a Pilau (see Pilatj, Rice 
 FOB a). Pile it on a dish, lay the pieces of 
 meat upon it, pour the sauce over, and -serve 
 very hot. Instead of preparing the rice as pre- 
 viously mentioned, it may be dressed as follows. 
 Wash three-quarters of a pound of rice, and boil 
 it gently for a quarter of an hour in a pint of 
 stock. Pour off the gravy, add three ounces of 
 fresh butter to the rice, and stir over a quick 
 fire until it is brightly and equally coloured. 
 Moisten with a little stock, season with a pinch 
 of mixed sweet herbs, a pinch of grated nut- 
 meg, and the thin rind of half a lemon. Sim- 
 mer again until the rice is quite tender without 
 being broken. Lift out the lemon-rind, and add 
 a quarter of a pint of thick cream. Spread half 
 the rice on a hot dish, lay the pieces of meat 
 upon it, squeeze a little lemon-juice over them, 
 and covei with the remainder of the rice. Time, 
 three-quarters of an hour to stew the meat and 
 simmer the rice. Probable cost, 3s. 4d., if made 
 with mutton and without cream. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 PILAU, INDIAN (another way). 
 
 Boil a chicken and two pounds of bacon in the 
 usiial way. Take them up ; to keep in the heat 
 as much as possible, lay them on a hot dish, and 
 cover with a cloth doubled in five or six thick- 
 nesses. Boil up again two pints of the chicken 
 broth, and put with it two small onions, six 
 cloves, six peppercorns, and three allspice, and 
 half a pound of rice. Simmer gently for three- 
 quarters of an hour, or until the rice is tender, 
 but unbroken. Lift out the onions and the bag 
 containing the spices, put in the fowl to make 
 it quite hot, place it en a dish, and pile the rice 
 smoothly over it. Send the bacon to table on a 
 separate dish. The bacon should be boiled in 
 the same liquid as the fowl, in order to season 
 it. Time to boil the chicken, according to size. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. Probable 
 cost, 4s. 6d., with a chicken at 2s. 6d. 
 
 PILAU OF FOWL. 
 
 Truss a plump young chicken as if for boil- 
 ing. Put it into a stewpan, with five pints, of 
 stock seasoned rather highly with pepper, salt, 
 and powdered mace, and boil gently until it is 
 three-parts done. Whilst the fowl is boiling, 
 wash a pound of best Patna rice, and dry it in a 
 soft cloth. Throw it into boiling water, and 
 boil quickly for five minutes, drain it, and stir 
 it in a stewpan with two ounces of butter until 
 it is equally and lightly browned. When the 
 fowl is half cooked, put in the rice, and four 
 ounces of Sultana raisins, and let all simmer 
 gently together until the grains are tender with- 
 out being broken, and the gravy is almost ah- 
 sorbed.' Lay the fowl in a hot dish, cover with 
 the rice, lay the raisins on the top, and garnish 
 the dish with hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters. 
 
PIL 
 
 554 
 
 PIM 
 
 or with thinly-sliced onions fried until they are 
 ^ulte dry and brown. Serve very hot. Time to 
 lioil the fowl, according to size. Three-quarters 
 ■of an hour to simmer the rice. Sufficient for 
 ■four or five persons. Probable cost, 3s. 6d., with 
 a, chicken at 2s. 6d. 
 
 .PILAU, RICE FOR A. 
 
 The most important part of a Pilau is the 
 rice. It is prepared as follows. Wash and pick 
 ialf a pound of rice, throw it into a saucepan of 
 boiling water, and let it boil rapidly for five 
 minutes. Drain it, put it into a stewpan with 
 two ounces of fresh butter, and stir it over a 
 ^juick fire until it is lightly coloured; add cay- 
 enne pepper, a table-spoonful of saffron-water, . 
 and three-quarters of a pint of stock, and sim- 
 mer gently until the grains are quite tender 
 without being broken. Stir in a table-spoonful 
 ■of curry-powder, pile the rice high on a dish, and 
 Bend it to table with the meat placed upon it. 
 Or wash and pick half a pound of rice, and dry 
 it thoroughly in a soft cloth. Drop it very 
 gradually into a pint and a half of boiling water, 
 and let it boil gently until the rice is quite 
 tender without being broken, and the water is 
 absorbed. When this point is reached, throw in 
 two ounces of butter broken into small pieces, 
 with a little salt and cayenne. Stir the whole 
 briskly for a minute or two, and serve hot with 
 stewed meat cut into neat pieces placed upon 
 the rice. Time to boil the rice, about three- 
 -quarters of an hour. Probable cost, rice, 3d. 
 per pound. Patna rice is the best for this pur- 
 pose. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 PILCHARD. 
 
 The pilchard is rarely found on the British 
 .shores except on the coasts of Cornwall and 
 Devon, particularly the former, where it is 
 captured in great numbers from the middle of 
 July to the end of November, or even the middle 
 ■of December. Cornish fishermen say that the 
 pilchard is the least fish in the sea for size, the 
 most in number, and the greatest for gain taken 
 from the sea. Pilchards are little used in Eng- 
 land, except in Devon and Cornwall. They are 
 principally exported, and are largely consumed 
 in some parts of the Continent during the sea- 
 son of Lent. The taste of the pilchard is very 
 like that of the herring, but it is more. oily. 
 Even after much of the oil has been removed by 
 .pressure it is still as rich as could be wished. 
 
 PILCHARD AND LEEK PIE (a Devonshire dish). 
 
 Trim off the coarser leaves from four or five 
 large leeks. Cut the white part only into equal 
 lengths, and scald these in salted water. Lay 
 them in a pie-dish, the edges of which are lined 
 with plain pastry, put on top of the leeks some 
 salted pilchards which have been laid in cold 
 water the previous day to soak, then another 
 layer of leeks on top of the pilchards, and put on 
 -tne cover. Bake in a moderate oven. When the 
 pie is done enough, lift up the cover, drain off 
 the gravy, and put in its place a cupful of boil- 
 ing cream. Time to bake the pie, forty minutes 
 or more. Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. 
 
 PILCHARDS, COOKING OF. 
 
 Pilchards are very oily, and quickly deterior- 
 ate in quality, so that they are not often sent 
 
 uncured to any great distance from the place 
 where they are caught. They may be dressed 
 according to the directions given for herrings. 
 
 THE PILOHABD 
 
 They may be distinguished from the herring by 
 the fact that the fin is exactly in the middle of 
 the back, whilst in the herring it is nearer the 
 tail. Probable cost, uncertain. 
 PILCHARDS, CURRIED. 
 
 Take a tin of pilchards; rub a clean frying- 
 pan with a clove of garlic, and turn the oil from 
 the tin into it. Place it over a clear fire. Mix 
 a table-spoonful of flour with a tea-spoonful of 
 cornflour; moisten it with a very little •tvater, 
 and stir it into the oil until it has the consist- 
 ency of a smooth thick gravy. Place the pil- 
 chards in this and warm them gently through, 
 turning them carefully, and basting them 
 several times during the cooking. When thor- 
 oughly hot, place them on a dish with the 
 sauce, an-5. put them in the oven for a few min- 
 utes. Serire with boiled rice on a separate dish. 
 PILEORADE (a delicious summer drinl<). 
 
 Put the thin rinds of three oranges and three 
 lemons into a jug, with their juice, and a 
 quarter of a pound of pineapple in thiii shav- 
 ings. Ad\l two quarts of boiling water, cover at 
 once, and set by to cool. When cold, sweeten 
 with a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, and add 
 a little pounded ice. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 PIIMENTO, ALLSPICE, OR JAMAICA PEPPER. 
 
 The tree from which is obtained the fruit pro- 
 ducing this spice is a native of the West Indies. 
 
 PIMENTO. 
 
 It is cultivated, however, almost exclusively in 
 Jamaica, thus giving rise to the name Jamaica 
 
PIN 
 
 555 
 
 PIN 
 
 pepper. The designation allspice is derived 
 from the spice resembling in flavour a mixture 
 of cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg. The berries 
 are gathered in an unripe state, when the essen- 
 tial oil contained in them is most abundant; 
 they are then dried in the sun. The flavour 
 resides within the shell of the pimento, which 
 is, when dried, about twice the size of a pepper- 
 corn. Allspice is inexpensive in price, and 
 agreeable in flavour. It is much used in 
 domestic cookery. The berries may be bought 
 either whole or ground. 
 
 PINEAPPLE, THE. 
 
 The pineapple is a fruit of delicious flavour. 
 It is principally grown in South America and 
 the West Indies, though it has been very suc- 
 cessfully cultivated in England, where it some- 
 times reaches a large size. The price is ex- 
 ceedingly variable, owing to the uncertainty of 
 the supply. 
 
 PINEAPPLE, BOTTLED. 
 
 Be very careful that the pineapples are per- 
 fectly sound and ripe. Pare them, and remove 
 the specks. Cut the fruit into slices half an inch 
 , thick, and divide these into halves. Put them 
 into dry wide-mouthed bottles, and cover them 
 with syrup. Wrap a wisp of hay round each 
 bottle. Put them side by side in a boiler, with 
 cold water up to their necks. Bring the water 
 to a boil, and let it boil gently for twenty 
 minutes. Draw the pan aside, cork the bottles 
 and let them remain until they are quite 
 cold. Wax the corks, and store in a cool 
 ■cellar. The syrup, which is to be poured over 
 the fruit, should be made as follows. Dissolve 
 three pounds of loaf sugar in a quart of water. 
 Stir in half the white of an egg, and stir the 
 syrup over the flre for two or three minutes. Let 
 it boil, and skim carefully. In order to assist 
 the scum in rising, throw in a spoonful of cold 
 vfater two or three times. Strain the syrup 
 through a napkin, and it ^ill be ready for use. 
 Time to boil the bottled fruit, twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost, pineapples, wlaeu cheap. Is. to 
 2s. each. 
 
 PINEAPPLE, BOTTLED, WITHOUT BOILING. 
 
 Choose pineapples which, though ripe, are 
 perfectly sound. Pare the fruit, remove the 
 speck's, and cut them into slices a quarter of an 
 inch thick. Weigh them, and allow one pound 
 ■of powdered and sifted sugar to each pound of 
 pines. Put a layer of the sugar half an inch 
 deep at the bottom of a small glass jar. Place 
 •on this a layer of equal depth of sliced fruit. 
 Press it down, and repeat until the jar is full, 
 remembering' only that the first and last layer 
 must be of sugar. Pit the cover as closely as 
 possible, to keep the jar air-tight. 
 
 PINEAPPLE, BRANDIED. 
 
 Pare, trim, and slice the fruit, weigh it, and 
 allow one pound of powdered sugar to each 
 pound of fruit. Choose glass jars which are as 
 nearly as possible the size of the slices of fruit. 
 tFill them lightly with alternate layers of sugar 
 and pineapple, without pressing them down, 
 remembering always that the undermost and 
 uppermost layers must consist of sugar. Pour 
 in as much brandy as will a little more than 
 cover the slices, put on closely-fitting covers to 
 
 exclude the air, and store in a cool, dry, dark 
 place. 
 
 PINEAPPLE CARDINAL (a cooling drink). 
 
 Peel a pineapple, and cut it into thin slices. 
 Put these into a deep dish, cover them with 
 powdered sugar, and let them stand four or five 
 hours. Put the rind into a small stewpan, with 
 as much water as will cover it, bring it to a 
 boil, skim it, and pour it over the fruit. Add 
 six ounces of refined sugar and a bottle of light 
 wine. Cover the vessel which contains the 
 fruit, etc., and leave it in a cool place for two 
 hours. When it is wanted for use, stir it well, . 
 and mix with it a bottle of seltzer. If a larger 
 quantity of the beverage is required, another 
 bottle or more of wine may be added, but it must 
 be remembered that six ounces of sugar must be 
 put in with every additional bottle. If pre- 
 ferred, ' champagne may be used instead of 
 seltzer. Time, seven or eight hours. Probable 
 cost, pineapples, when cheap. Is. to 2s. each. 
 
 PINEAPPLE CHIPS. 
 
 Pare some pineapples, and carefully remove 
 the specks or eyes with the point of a knife. 
 Cut them into slices, and place these on a large 
 dish in a single layer with as much powdered 
 and sifted sugar sprinkled over as will cover 
 them. Keep the fruit in a hot closet until it is 
 dry, turning it regularly each day. When the 
 dry point is reached, put the slices on a tin, and 
 place them in a quick oven for ten minutes. 
 When quite cool, store them in single layers in 
 a tin box vdth writing-paper between each layer. 
 Time, nine or ten days to dry the slices. 
 
 PINEAPPLE, COMPOTE OF. 
 
 Peel a pineapple, and pick all the specks or 
 eyes from it; cut it into slices half an inch 
 thick, keep one of the largest of these whole, 
 and divide the rest into halves. Make some 
 syrup by boiling five ounces of lump sugar in 
 half a pint of water for ten minutes, put in 
 the slices of fruit, and let them boil for five 
 minutes. Leave them in the syrup until they 
 are quite cold; drain them; put the whole slice 
 in the centre of a compote-dish, and arrange 
 the half slices in a circle round it ; pour the 
 syrup over, and serve. Time to boil the syrup, 
 ten minutes ; with the fruit, five minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, pineapples, when very cheap. Is. to 
 23. each. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 PINEAPPLE CREAM IN A MOULD. 
 
 Take a moderate-si/od pineapple, fully ripe, 
 pare it carefully, pick out the specks or eyes, 
 strip all the pulp from the core, and cut it into 
 dice with a silver knife. Strew over the fruit 
 nine ounces of pounded and sifted loaf sugar, 
 add two table-spoonfuls of brandy, and let it 
 soak for two hours. Put the peel into a sauce- 
 pan with half a pint of water, and let it simmer 
 gently for an hour ; strain it, and let it cool. 
 Eeturn the liquid into the saucepan, with the 
 fruit, sugar, and juice, and boil all gently to- 
 gether for a quarter of an hour. Skim the mix- 
 ture, and add to it three-quarters of an ounce of 
 best isinglass. Boil it ten minutes longer, pour 
 it out, and mix with it a pint and a quarter of 
 thick cream. Whisk the whole briskly until 
 it begins to thicken, then pour it into a mould, 
 and set it on ice. The cream should be stirred 
 
PIN 
 
 556 
 
 PIN 
 
 for a few minutes after it is put upon the ice, 
 or the fruit will sink to the bottom. Probable 
 cost, 4s. 6d., with pineapples at Is. 6d. each, 
 and cream at Is. 6d. per pint. Sufficient for a 
 quart mould. 
 
 PINEAPPLE CREAM, MADE WITH TINNED 
 FRUIT. 
 
 Cut half a pound of preserved pineapple into 
 dice. Put the syrup into a stewpan with three 
 ounces of loaf sugar and half a pint of water. 
 When the sugar is dissolved, put in the fruit, 
 and boil all quickly for ten minutes. Add three- 
 quarters of an ounce of isinglass, and boil ten 
 minutes longer. Pour the mixture into a bowl, 
 and whisk it well with one pint and a quarter of 
 cream. As soon as it begins to thicken, pour 
 it into a mould, and set it upon ice. Stir it for 
 a few minutes after it is on the ice to prevent 
 the fruit settling to the bottom. Time, three- 
 quarters of an hour. Sufficient for seven or 
 eight persons. 
 
 PINEAPPLE CREAMS SERVED IN GLASSES. 
 
 Pare a ripe pineapple, and cut the rind into 
 pieces. Boil these until the flavour is drawn out 
 in a quarter of a pint of milk, then strain it, 
 and mix with it four ounces of loaf sugar, a 
 pint of cream, and a tea-spoonful of lemon- juice. 
 Pour the mixture into a saucepan, and stir over 
 a gentle fire until it begins to thicken. Pour it 
 out, let it cool, then whisk until it is nicely 
 frothed, and put it into the glasses. When pine- 
 apple cream is made in this way, the pulp may 
 be cut up and used for dessert. Time, half an 
 hour to boil the rind in the milk. Probable cost, 
 3s. 2d. Sufficient for half a dozen glasses. 
 
 PINEAPPLE FRITTERS. 
 
 Pare a pineapple with as little waste as pos- 
 sible. Cut it into thick slices, and place these 
 in a shallow dish. Sj)rinkle two ounces of 
 powdered and sifted sugar upon them, pour a 
 wine-glassful of brandy, Curagoa, or maraschino 
 over them, and let them soak for five hours. 
 Make a frying batter as follows. Mix a salt- 
 spoonful of salt with three-quarters of a pound 
 of flour ; add the well-whisked yolks of two eggs 
 and two ounces of clarifled butter, and pour in, 
 very gradually, a little more than half a pint of 
 lukewarm water or, if preferred, beer. Beat the 
 mixture thoroughly whilst the water is being 
 added, so that it may be quite smooth. This 
 batter should be sufficiently thick to drop from 
 the spoon. It should be made at the time that 
 the slices are put into the liqueur, and then 
 put aside, as it is best when made two or three 
 hours before it is wanted. Ten minutes before 
 it is to be used, add the whites of three eggs 
 whisked to a firm froth. Dip the pieces of 
 pineapple into the batter, and drop them into 
 boiling Isird. Turn them lightly in this until 
 they are crisp and brown on both sides, then 
 drain from the fat, and serve them quickly. 
 They should be piled on a neatly-folded napkin, 
 and have powdered sugar sifted over them. 
 Time to fry, six or eight minutes. Probable 
 cost, pineapples, when cheap. Is. to 2s. each. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 PINEAPPLE GLACE* FOR DESSERT. 
 
 Take some slices of pineapple, and boil them 
 in syrup as if for a compote (see Pineapple, 
 
 Comp6te op). Let them remain in the syrup 
 until cold, then drain them entirely from it, 
 put a skewer half-way through each slice, and 
 place them in a hot screen to dry. Prepare 
 some sugar as follows. Dissolve a pound of 
 it in a pint of water, put it over a quick 
 fire, skim carefully, and boil it until it has 
 reached the third, or feathered, degree (see 
 Sugar Boiling). When it is almost done, 
 stir it lightly for a minute or two, and 
 press the side of the pan with the spoon. 
 In order to ascertain when the sugar has 
 reached the proper stage, dip in the skim- 
 mer, shake it, and give it a sudden toss. If 
 done enough, the sugar will fly off like snow- 
 flakes. When the precise point is reached (a 
 few seconds will make a difference), put in the 
 slices of pineapple . by means of the skewers, 
 cover them entirely with the sugar, and then 
 place them on a wire fruit-drainer. In about 
 ten minutes, if the operation has been success- 
 ful, it ought to be possible to draw away the 
 fruit, without disturbing the sugar, by pressing 
 it with the flngers from beneath. Preparations 
 of this kind are best left to the confectioner. 
 Time to dry the fruit, about an hour. Probable 
 cost, pineapples, when cheap. Is. to 2s. each. 
 PINEAPPLE ICE CREAM. 
 
 Whisk the yolks of six eggs thoroughly. Mix 
 with them half a pint of lukewarm milk, and 
 add two ounces of loaf sugar. Stir this custard 
 over a gentle fire until it begins to thicken, then 
 pour it out, and stir it again. Pare a pineapple 
 with as little waste as possible. Cut it into 
 slices, and boil them for five minutes in a syrup 
 made of half a pound of loaf sugar and a quarter 
 of a pint of water. Press the fruit through a 
 coarse sieve, and stir the pulp and the syrup 
 into the custard. Put the cream into a mould, 
 and freeze in the usual way. This cream may be 
 made with half a pound of preserved pineapple. 
 Probable cost, pineapples. Is. to 2s. each. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 PINEAPPLE JAM. 
 
 Weigh the pineapples, then skin and eye 
 them, and cut them into thin slices. Boil these 
 till cooked in as much water as will barely cover 
 them, and add a little sugar. Hub them through 
 a sieve. Take half a pound of sugar to one 
 pound of fruit. Boil this with the pineapple 
 water to a clear thick syrup, add the fruit pulp, 
 and stir over the fire till done. 
 PINEAPPLE JELLY. 
 
 Pare a ripe pineapple, and cut it into slices. 
 Lay these on a dish, cover them with powdered 
 and sifted sugar, and leave them for six or seven 
 hours. Pour off the syrup and strain it. Dis- 
 solve and clarify an ounce of isinglass (see Isin- 
 glass, TO clarify) in half a pint oi water. 
 Mix with it a pint of the strained juice, and 
 simmer all gently together for five minutes. 
 Add a glassful of Cura5oa. Pour three table- 
 spoonfuls of the jelly into a mould shaped like a 
 pineapple, if one be at hand. Let the jelly 
 stiffeUi then lay neatly on it two or three slices 
 of the pineapple, and a little more jelly. Let 
 this also stii'en, and repeat until the mould is 
 full. Turn the jelly out very carefully when it 
 is wanted for use. If preferred, this jelly can 
 be put into the mould without the fruit, but 
 
PIN 
 
 557 
 
 PIN 
 
 ■will not then be so elegant. When time is a 
 consideration, the flavour of the pineapple may 
 he drawn out more quickly by cutting the fruit 
 into slices, and boiling half a pound of it with 
 eight ounces of loaf sugar, and half a pint of 
 water for half an hour, then straining it through 
 a napkin. Time, two days. If the mould can- 
 not be put upon ice, the jelly .should be, made 
 some hours before it is wanted. Probable cost, 
 3s., exclusive of the Cura9oa, if made with a 
 pineapple costing Is. 6d. Suifioient for six or 
 eight persons. 
 
 PINEAPPLE JULEP. 
 
 Pare a very ripe pineapple with as little waste 
 as possible, and cut it into thin slices. Lay 
 these in a large bowl, and strain over them the 
 juice of two sweet oranges. Pour in a quarter 
 of a pint of maraschino, a quarter of a pint of 
 gin, and a quarter of a pint of raspberry syrup, 
 and mix thoroughly. Just before serving, add 
 a bottle of sparkling Moselle and a tumblerful 
 of shaved ice. 
 
 PINEAPPLE MARMALADE. 
 
 Choose ripe sound pines, pare them, take out 
 the eyes, weigh the fruit, and allow an equal 
 quantity of pounded and dried sugar. Grate the 
 flesh on a coarse grater, then put it over a 
 moderate fire, and let it heat gently, for ten 
 minutes, or until it is quite tender. Add the 
 sugar very'gr'adually, and boil the mixture until 
 it looks thick and clear. Turn it into jars, and 
 coyer in the usual way. If preferred, the fruit 
 may be cut up and poundeq instead of being 
 grated ; but though more troublesome it is best 
 when grated. Probable cost. Is. 6d. per pound. 
 
 PINEAPPLE, PRESERVED. 
 
 Pineapples are so expensive that it is very 
 unusual to preserve them in any quantity. 
 Nevertheless, as the jam made from them is 
 very delicious and highly esteemed, the follow- 
 ing recipes are given. The foreign fruit and 
 that which is grown at home are often mixed 
 with advantage. It need scarcely be said that 
 that which is grown at home is much superior to 
 that sent from abroad. Great care must be taken 
 in choosing the fruit to secure it perfectly sound 
 and fully ripe, without being in the least de- 
 cayed. If the flesh ' round the stalk looks 
 mouldy or dark, the fruit should not be pre- 
 served. The flavour of pineapples may 
 generally be guessed at by their odour. Pare 
 the pineapples, and take out the eyes. Cut 
 them into slices of a third of an inch thick. 
 For every pound of fruit thus weighed after 
 being pared, take a pound of loaf sugar, and a 
 small teacupful of water. Dissolve the sugar 
 in the water, skim carefully, and boil until it 
 forms a clear syrup. Put in the slices of pine, 
 and boil gently until they look bright and clear. 
 Put the preserve into jars, cover closely, and 
 store in a cool, dry place. Time to boil, at 
 ' least half an hour after the fruit reaches the 
 boiling point. Probable cost, when pineapples 
 are cheap. Is. 3d. per pound. 
 
 PINEAPPLES, PRESERVED (for a short time on[y). 
 Pare the fruit, cut it into slices, and remove 
 the specks and the hard part from the centre. 
 Tear the rind into small pieces ; put these and 
 the waste portions into a stewpan with as much 
 
 water as will cover them,- and let them simmer 
 gently for a quarter of an hour, or until the 
 liquid is pleasantly flavoured. Strain it, and 
 put it back into the saucepan with the slices of 
 fruit, and let them simmer a quarter of an hour : 
 then add sugar to taste, and simmer another 
 quarter of an hour. Turn it out, and it is ready 
 for serving. Probable cost of pineapples, when 
 cheap. Is. 6d. to 2s. each. 
 
 PINEAPPLE PUDDING. 
 
 Boil half a pint of milk with three ounces of 
 jutter and three ounces of sugar. As soon as 
 the milk rises in the pan, lift it from the fire, 
 stir four ounces of flour into it, and beat it well 
 until it is quite smooth. Put it on the fire 
 again, and stir until it leaves the sides of the 
 saucepan with the spoon. Pour it out, and mix 
 in the well-beaten yolks of three eggs and three 
 ounces of preserved pineapple cut into dice. 
 Butter a mould rather thickly, and just before 
 pouring the mixture into it, add the whites of 
 the eggs, which have been beaten to" a firm 
 froth. Steam the pudding by placing it in a 
 saucepan upon an inverted pudding-plate, and 
 keeping it surrounded with about three inches 
 of boiling water until it is done enough. Turn 
 the pudding out upon its dish, with a little 
 wine sauce poured over it. Time to steam, 
 about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost,_ 
 Is. 6d. SufSciont for Jour persons. 
 
 PINEAPPLE PUDDING, COLD, OR PAIN 
 D'ANANAS. 
 
 Cut a ripe pineapple into slices, and boil these 
 for ten minutes in a pint of syrup. Lift out the 
 fruit, and press it through a sieve. Soak an 
 ounce 'of gelatine in half a pint of cold water 
 for twenty minutes, drain it, put it into the 
 syrup in which the pineapple was boiled, and 
 stir it over the fire until it is dissolved. Strain 
 through a napkin, and when the syriip is cold 
 mix the pineapple pulp with it. Decorate a 
 plain mould with an ounce of pistachios cut into 
 strips, tt, large pear cut into dice, and some 
 preserved cherries. » The fruit may be stuck 
 upon the mould with a little melted gelatine. 
 Pour in the mixture, and, place the pudding- 
 upon ice until it is wanted. Turn- it out before 
 serving. Tinie to prepare, about an hour. 
 Probable cost, 3s. Suificient for six or seven 
 persons. 
 
 PINEAPPLE PUDDING, COLD, OR PAIN 
 D'ANANAS, RICH. 
 
 Pare a large ripe pineapple, and carefully 
 take out the specks or eyes. Slice it, and cut 
 it into dice. Boil for ten minutes in a quarter 
 of a pint of syrup, and put the fruit aside until 
 wanted. Tear the rind into small pieces, and 
 pour over these half a pint of boiling, cream. 
 Let them infuse for half an hour, then stir in 
 the yolks of six eggs. Well beaten, and three 
 table-spoonfuls of sugar. Stir the custard over 
 a moderate fire until it begins to thicken, strain 
 it, and when it is quite cold add the syriip and 
 the, fruit. Ornament a plain mould according 
 to the directions given in the preceding recipe- 
 set it in ice, and fill it with the preparation. 
 Put a baking-sheet over it, lay some ice on, this, 
 and let it remain until the pudding is wanted. 
 Turn it out of the mould carefully, and serve,. 
 
PIN 
 
 558 
 
 PIN 
 
 Time to prepare, an hour or more. Probable 
 cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for four or more persons. 
 
 PINEAPPLE PUNCH. 
 
 Take a sound, ripe, well-flavoured pineapple, 
 pare it, pick out tbe specks, and cut it into tbin 
 slices. Weigb tbe pulp, and put balf a pound 
 of it into a bowl. Boil a quarter of a pound of 
 best Carolina rice in a quart of cold water, with 
 two inches of stick cinnamon, and a salt- 
 spoonful of green nutmeg. When the rice is 
 soft, strain tbe water, and put it aside for a 
 short time. Rub a few lumps of sugar upon 
 the rind of eight fresh lemons, add more sugar 
 to make up a pound and a half, and put this and 
 the strained juice of the lemons with tbe pine- 
 apple. Pour in three pints of boiling water, 
 and then with two jugs — one in each hand — 
 pour the liquid backwards and forwards from 
 a good height, and continue this for twenty 
 minutes. Add gradually half a bottle of French 
 brandy, half a bottle of Madeira, and a bottle 
 and a half of rum, and whilst the spirits and 
 wine are being added keep on pouring the liquid 
 from one jug to another for fully three-quarters 
 of an hour, by which time the punch will be 
 delicately flavoured. Last of all, add the 
 seasoned rice-water, stir it quickly into the 
 punch, pour the preparation into a bowl with 
 a closely-fitting lid, throw a cloth over this, and 
 leave it in a cool place for eight hours. Strain 
 through a jelly-bag until the punch is quite 
 bright, then bottle it, and cork securely. Pine- 
 apple punch improves with keeping. Sufficient 
 for about a gallon of punch. 
 
 PINEAPPLE SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS. < 
 
 Pare a pineapple, and carefully remove the' 
 specks. Cut it into slices, and then into dice, 
 and place these in a saucepan. With twelve 
 ounces of fiuit put four table-spoonfuls of 
 water, let the fruit simmer gently, and when it 
 is quite tender mix with it half a pound of 
 powdered and sifted sugar. Let it boil a few 
 minutes, and pour it over the pudding. Or, 
 pare the fruit as above diActed, weigh it, and 
 cut it into dice. Put a quarter of a pound into 
 a saucepan with its juice, and a dessert-spoonful 
 of water, and let it simmer very gently until 
 tender; then add four ounces of powdered and 
 sifted sugar, and boil gently until the sauce 
 looks bright and clear. Before sending to table 
 stir into it a table-spoonful of strained lemon- 
 juice. A superior sauce, and one which will 
 keep for some time, may be made as follows. 
 Put n. pound of the minced flesh of a pineapple 
 into a saucepan with three-quarters of a pint 
 of cold water. Let it simmer gently until 
 tender; strain the juice, and mix with it a 
 pound of refined loaf sugar broken small. Let 
 it heat until the sugar is dissolved, then boil 
 it over a moderate fire. If it is not wanted im- 
 mediately, pour it into a jar, and cover like 
 jam. Time to boil the juice with the sugar, a 
 quarter of an hour. Probable cost pineapples, 
 when cheap. Is. 6d. to 2s. each. 
 
 PINEAPPLE SORBET. 
 
 Take a medium-sized pineapple, and cut it up 
 into very small pieces. Put these into a bowl 
 with a pound of sugar, and beat well together. 
 Add the juice of two lemons and one orange, 
 
 the grated rind of half a lemon and half an 
 orange, half a gill of maraschino, and a quart of 
 water. Strain through a fine hair-sieve, and 
 freeze until it is a semi-liquid. Probable cost, 
 2s. 6d. 
 
 PINEAPPLE SOUFFLE. 
 
 Blend very gently three ounces of flour and 
 the same of fresh butter in a stewpan over the 
 fire, and add half a pint of milk. Remove 
 the pan to the side of the fire, and put in 
 two table-spoonfuls of thick cream and the 
 beaten yolks of three eggs; add about three 
 ounces of pineapple (fresh or tinned) chopped 
 very small or grated. Then add a little essence 
 of pineapple and the whipped whites of four 
 eggs. Prepare a mould, put the mixture in, 
 and steam for an hour and a quarter. Turn 
 out and serve with a sauce made from pineapple 
 juice and a little Madeira wine, slightly 
 sweetened. 
 
 PINEAPPLE SPONGE. 
 
 Put half a pint of grated pineapple into a 
 saucepan, with half an ounce of sheet gelatine 
 previously dissolved in a table-spoonful of lemon 
 juice and a little water, and two ounces of 
 sugar, and stir until well mixed and the sugar 
 melted. Add a table-spoonful of sherry, and 
 leave the mixture to cool a little. Whip the 
 white of an egg to a froth, add it to the mix- 
 ture, and whisk the whole to a firm consistency. 
 It should then be put into a mould and turned 
 out when set. Garnish the dish with a little 
 whipped cream, sweetened, and flavoured with 
 pineapple essence. Probable cost, '2S. ." ■ 
 
 PINEAPPLE TO CUT FOR SERVING. 
 
 - Pare a pineapple so that- the fruit shall be 
 wasted as little as possible, and in order to do 
 this notch it in and out, and carefully remove 
 all the specks or eyes with a silver fork, pick 
 the fruit from the core in pieces as large as a. 
 bean, and place the dish which contains it on 
 ice until it is wanted. Sugar may be strewed 
 over the fruit or not. It draws out the juice, 
 which is not always desired. 
 
 PINEAPPLE WATER (a refreshing summer beverage). 
 Take a moderate-sized pineapple; pare and 
 slice it, and pound it in a mortar to a pulp. 
 Put this into a bowl with the strained juice of 
 a large fresh lemon, and pour over it a pint of 
 boiling syrup made in the proportion of one 
 pound of sugar to a pint of water. Cover the 
 jug w^hich contains the liquid, and leave it in 
 a cool place for two hours or more. Strain 
 through a napkin, put two pints of cold spring' 
 water with it, and serve. Probable cost, pine- 
 apples. Is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for three pints 
 of pineapple water. 
 
 PINEAPPLE WATER ICE. 
 
 Take one or two pineapples which are per- 
 fectly sound and fully ripe, pare them, and pick 
 out the specks. Grate the flesh on a coarse- 
 grater, and press the pulp through a colander. 
 To a pint of pulp add half a pint of water and 
 eight ounces of sugar, with the white of a fresh 
 egg beaten to a firm froth. Put in the egg in 
 small quantities at a time, and beat the mixture 
 for some minutes. Freeze in the usual way. 
 Or, take half a pound of the flesh of a ripe pine- 
 
PIN 
 
 559 
 
 PIP 
 
 apple. Pound in a mortar, then mix with it 
 the strained juice of a fresh lemon, a pint of 
 syrup, and half a pint of water. Strain through 
 a napkin, and freeze in the usual way. Prob- 
 able cost, pineapples. Is. 6d. to 2s. each. 
 
 PINK CREAM. 
 
 Take a, pint and a half of ripe red currants, 
 strip them from the stalks, and put them into 
 an earthen jar with a closely-fitting lid. Set 
 this in a pan of boiling water, and boil gently 
 until the juice flows freely. Strain the juice 
 through a fine sieve, and sweeten to taste with 
 powdered white sugar. Stir into half a pint of; 
 juice a pint of cream, and beat the mixture until 
 it begins to thicken. Serve in a glass dish. If 
 liked, the juice of a lemon may be added to the 
 cream. Time to boil the currants, two hours. 
 Probable' cost, 2s. 2d. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 PINK ICING. 
 
 Put the whites of two eggs into a bowl and 
 beat them lightly. Add, gradually, icing sugar 
 to make a stiffish paste, and mix but do not work 
 the ingredients. Add now and then three or 
 four drops of leinon-juice and a drop of cochineal 
 until the mixture looks thick, smooth, shiny, 
 and as deeply coloured as is desired. The icing 
 should be spread fully a quarter of an inch thick 
 over the cake, or whatever it is used for, and 
 should be placed in a cool oven until dry. If 
 the eggs are beaten to a firm froth, the icing 
 will not dry so easily. Time to mix the paste, 
 till it is stifE. Probable cost, 6d. for this 
 quantity. 
 
 PINK PANCAKES. 
 
 Take a moderate-sized boiled beetroot, pare' 
 off the dark outer skin, and cut' the root into' 
 slices, and pound it in a mortar to a smooth 
 pulp. Make a batter by mixing two table- 
 spoonfuls of flour with half a pint of milk and 
 five well-beaten eggs. Add half a tea-spoonful 
 of grated nutmeg, and a table-spoonful of 
 powdered sugar, and when these ingredients 
 are well mixed beat the pulp of the beetroot 
 into the batter. Fry the pancakes as quickly as 
 possible, and serve them rolled, with a little 
 bright-coloured jam inside each one. Time, four 
 or five minutes to fry the pancakes. Probable 
 cost, lOd. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 PINK SAUCE, FOR MEAT OR FISH. 
 
 Take a largo, wide-mouthed bottle, and put 
 into it a quarter of a pint of port, a pint of 
 vinegar, a dessert-spoonful of walnut ketchup, 
 two dessert-spoonfuls of anchovy liquor, two 
 cloves of garlic, or, if preferred, three shallots, 
 a quarter of an ounce of cayenne^ and one- 
 eighth, of an ounce of cochineal. Stir the mix- 
 ture briskly for a minute or two, then cork it up, 
 and leave it in a cool place for two days, stirring 
 it up every now and then. Strain through a 
 tamis, and keep the sauce in small bottles. 
 closely corked until wanted; this sauce may be 
 used as a relish for cold meat, or to flavour fish 
 sauces. Sufficient for a pint and a quarter. 
 
 PINK SUGAR, FOR ORNAMENTING SWEET 
 DISHES. 
 
 Crush the sugar either coarsely or to a pow- 
 der, whichever is required. Place two or three 
 
 drops of prepared cochineal in the palm of the- 
 hand, and rub the sugar in with it until it is; 
 sufficiently coloured, when it is ready for use. 
 
 PINNER TART. 
 
 Line an open tart tin with short crust, and fill 
 it with the following mixture. Two ounces of 
 fine cake crumbs, four ounces of golden syrup, 
 the finely-grated rind of a, lemon with half the 
 juice. These ingredients should all be well 
 blended together. Bake in a quick oven for a 
 quarter of an hour, and just before serving put 
 leaves of baked pastry on as a garnish. 
 
 PINTAIL, OR SEA PHEASANT. 
 
 This bird, though highly esteemed where it is 
 known, is not common. It is considered best 
 when roasted, and is cooked like an ordinary 
 pheasant, ' great care being taken to baste it 
 constantly. It should be sent to table with 
 good brown gravy, and a piquant sauce. It will, 
 of itself yield a good gravy if it is taken down 
 wheii it has been before the fire for about 
 twenty-five minutes, dished, laid in front of the. 
 fire for a few minutes, and then served imme- 
 diately. Time to roast, about half an hour. 
 Probable cost, uncertain, pintails b?ing seldom 
 offered for sale. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. • 
 
 PIPPINS, FROSTED. 
 
 Take half a dozen russets or Eibston pippins,, 
 pare, core, and divide them in halves, then place- 
 them side by side, with the flat part downwards, 
 on a buttered tin. Whisk the white of a fresli 
 egg to a firm froth. Spread it on them, then 
 sprinkle over them the thin rind of a lemon cut 
 into' long narrow strips, and add a covering of; 
 powdered and sifted sugar. Bake in a moderate' 
 oven until tender, and serve hot. Time to 
 bake, about half an hour. Probable cost, lOd. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 PIPPINS, GOLDEN, PRESERVED. 
 
 (See Golden Pippins.) 
 PIPPINS, NORMANDY, DRIED. 
 
 Soak the pippins for three or four hours or 
 longer. Put them into a pie-dish, and fill up 
 the dish with the water in which they were- 
 soaked; add the thin rind of a lemon and two 
 ounces of loaf sugar. Place in a gentle oven,, 
 and bake for about an hour and a half; then! 
 add another two ounces of sugar, and bake- 
 again very gently till the apples are tender. 
 Strain the syrup, put with it the juice of the- 
 lemon, a few drops of cochineal, and a glass of 
 port wine. Place the apples on a glass dish, 
 pour the syrup when cool over them,' and serve- 
 cold, with a spoonful of Devonshire creani 
 on each apple. (See also Noemandy Pippins.). 
 
 PIPPIN TARTS. 
 
 Take half a dozen Flanders pippins, or any- 
 other good cooking apples, pare and core them, 
 and put them into a saucepan with a little- 
 butter, and water sufficient only to prevent them, 
 burning. Let them simmer until they begin to 
 fall, then add four ounces of moist sugar, and 
 the strained juice and finely-tuinced rind of a 
 Seville orange. Boil and stir the mixture until 
 it thickens, then turn it out to cool. , Put it 
 into tartlet shells already baked, and serve cold.. , 
 Time, about half an hour to 'boil the apples. 
 
PIQ 
 
 560 
 
 PIS 
 
 Probable cost, 9d. for the apple paste. Suf- 
 ficient — according to the size of the pippins. 
 
 PIQUANT SAUCE. 
 
 Mince very finely a table-spoonful of capers, 
 a table-spoonful of shallots, and a table-spoon- 
 ful of gherkins. Put them into a saucepan with 
 a quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper and three 
 table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and let them simmer 
 gently for three minutes. Add half a pint of 
 broth or stock, a tea-spoonful of Bovril, a tea- 
 spoonful of the essence of anchovy, and a 
 dessert-spoonful of brown thickening. Boil the 
 sauce until it is thick and smooth, skim care- 
 fully, and it is ready for use. If brown thicken- 
 ing is not at hand, mix half an ounce of butter 
 ■with half an ounce of flour, and stir these in- 
 gredients quickly together over a moderate 
 fire until the mixture is brightly coloured; 
 moisten with the stock, and pour it over the 
 gherkins, etc. Time, a quarter of an hour. 
 Sufficient for nearly a pint of sauce. Probable 
 cost, lOd. 
 
 PIQUANT SAUCE (another way). 
 
 Dissolve an ounce and a half of butter in a 
 spiall saucepan over a moderate fire. Throw in 
 a table-spoonful of chopped onions, and stir 
 "them about for two minutes, sprinkle a tea- 
 spoonful of flour over them, and beat il with the 
 back of a wooden spoon to prevent it getting 
 into lumps. Add half a pint of stock or broth, 
 a small bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a 
 bay-leaf, and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of 
 , cayenne. Simmer gently for twenty minutes, 
 then lift out the herbs, pour in half a wine- 
 glassful of vinegar, and add a little pepper and 
 salt if required; let all boil up together, and 
 serve. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for nearly 
 three-quarters of a pint of sauce. 
 
 PIQUANT SAUCE (another way). 
 
 Mix together a table-spoonful of minced 
 capers and a table-spoonful of chopped parsley. 
 Put with them six anchovies which have been 
 boned and pounded, the yolks of three hard- 
 boiled eggs, and a table-spoonful of dry mus- 
 tard. Rub these ingredients with the back of 
 a wooden spoon until they are smoothly mixed, 
 then press them through a coarse sieve. Add 
 •a pinch of cayenne, and moisten the whole with 
 "two table-spoonfuls of oil and two of vinegar. 
 Stir the paste into half a pint of stock or melted 
 butter; let it boil, strain it, and it is ready for 
 serving. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. 
 Sufficient for nearly three-quarters of n pint of 
 sauce. 
 
 PIQUANT SAUCE, FOR STORING. 
 
 The month of August is the best time for 
 making this sauce, and it should not be used for 
 fully three months after it is made. Take equal 
 quantities of young walnuts and large mush- 
 rooms; put them into separate pans, bruise 
 them well, and whilst bruising sprinkle a little 
 salt in with them. A pound of salt will be suf- 
 £cicnt for a peck of mushrooms and a, hundred 
 and fifty walnuts. Let them lie for a week, 
 turning and bruising them frequently; then 
 press them well, and drain off the liquor. Boil 
 it separately until the scum ceases to rise. 
 Measure it, and mix it in equal quantities, and 
 with each pint of the mixed liquid put a pint of 
 
 vinegar, half a blade of mace, four allspice, two 
 cloves, a quarter of an ounce of ginger, as much 
 cayenne as will lie on a threepenny piece, half 
 a salt-spoonful of mustard seed, a clove of garlic, 
 and three shallots. Boil and skim the sauce for 
 twenty minutes. Pour it out, and when cold 
 strain it, and mix with each pint a, glassful of 
 port, a quarter of a pint of claret, and a, table- 
 spoonful of soy. Put the liquid into small 
 bottles, cork and seal them securely, and store 
 — as indeed should be done with all such pre- 
 parations — in a cool, dry place. Probable cost, 
 uncertain. 
 
 PISTACHIO CREAM. 
 
 Blanch and peel a quarter of a pound of 
 pistachio nuts, and pound them to a smooth 
 paste, with a little rose or orange-flower water.' 
 Stir the paste into a pint of thick cream, add 
 a table-apoonful of sugar and a table-spoonful 
 of brandy, and stir the mixture over a gentle 
 Are until it is on the, point of boiling. Pour 
 it out, and when cold serve in a glass dish or in 
 glasses, with a few pistachios, blanched and cut 
 into long narrow strips, sprinkled on the top. 
 Probable cost, 2s. lOd. Sufficient for a little 
 more than a pint of cream. 
 
 PISTACHIO ICE CREAM. 
 
 Blanch and peel a quarter of a pound of 
 pistachios, and pound them to a smooth paste 
 with a few drops of rose-water. Beat the yolks 
 of six eggs, and pour over them a pint and a 
 half of boiling milk; add four ounces of pow- 
 dered sugar, and stir the custard over the fire 
 until it begins to thicken ; then pour it out, and 
 when cool stir into it the pounded pistachios 
 and a tea-spoonful of spinach colouring. Pass 
 the whole through a sieve; mould and freeze. 
 If preferred, the pistachio paste can be mixed 
 with cream instead of custard. Time, about a 
 quarter of an hour to boil the custard. Suf- 
 ficient for a quart of ice cream. Probable cost. 
 
 PISTACHIO KERNELS, BURNT. 
 
 Blanch and peel a quarter of a pound of 
 freshly-imported pistachio kernels, and put them 
 in a gentle oven until they are quite dry and 
 hot through. Put half a pound of loaf sugar 
 into a saucepan with just enough water to dis- 
 solve it, and add a few drops of vanilla flavour- 
 ing and of spinach-juice. Let the sugar boil 
 until it is nearly, but not quite, brittle; then 
 take the saucepan from the fire, throw in the 
 pistachios, and stir them about in the sugar 
 until they are well covered with it, taking care 
 that the sugar does not stick to the sides of 
 the pan. Turn all out of the pan, and lay the 
 kernels on a sieve; cover them over, and leave 
 them for a few minutes. Pick the sugar from 
 them, put it again into the pan with enough 
 water to dissolve it, and boil again until it 
 reaches the same point as before. Throw in the 
 kernels, stir them about, and when they are once 
 more covered take them out ; repeat the opera- 
 tion a third timei, until the kernels are twice 
 their original size, when they are ready for use. 
 If required, a few more drops of spinach colour- 
 ing may be put in the last time of boiling. 
 Time, about an hour. Probable cost, pistachios, 
 4s. per pound. 
 
PIS 
 
 561 
 
 PLA 
 
 PISTACHIO MACAROONS. 
 
 Blanch seven ouncea of pistachios and seven 
 ounces of Jordan almonds, and pound them in a 
 mortar to a smooth paste, adding the white of 
 an egg— a few drops at a time. Put with these 
 ingredients a quarter of a pound of pounded 
 sugar, a table-spoonful of Curacoa, and a tea- 
 spoonful of spinach-juice for colouring. When 
 the mixture is pounded to a smooth but firm 
 paste, form it into balls nearly an inch in dia- 
 meter, and lay these on a baking-sheet. Leave a 
 little distance between the macaroons, and bake 
 in a gentle oven until they are hard and set. 
 Turn them upside down, and brush the back of 
 the baking-sheet with a little water, which will 
 make it easier to lift off the macaroons. Keep 
 them in a cool, dry place until wanted. Time to 
 bake the macaroons, about twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost, 2s. per pound. 
 
 PISTACHIO NUTS. 
 
 Pistachia or Pistachio nuts are the fruit of the 
 Pistachia vera, a kind of turpentine tree. It 
 grows naturally in Arabia, Persia, and Syria; 
 also in Sicily, whence the nuts are annually 
 brought to us. They are oblong and pointed, 
 about the size and shape of a filbert, including 
 a kernel of a pale yello.wish colour, covered with 
 
 PLAICE. 
 
 Plaice is a flat fish, and not very highly 
 esteemed, excepting when soles, turbot, and 
 salmon cannot be procured. It comes into 
 season at the beginning of summer, and con- 
 
 PISTACHIO NUTS. 
 
 a yellowish or reddish skin. They have a 
 pleasant, sweet, unctuous taste, resembling- that 
 of sweet almonds; their principal difference 
 from which consists in their having a greater 
 degree of sweetness, accompanied with a light, 
 grateful flavour; and in being more oily. Pis- 
 tachios imported from the East are superior 
 to those raised in Europe. Pistachio nuts 
 have a tendency to become rancid. They 
 are used on the Continent, in districts where 
 they are plentiful, in the manufacture of 
 ragouts and various other dishes. When used 
 in cookery they should be blanched and peeled 
 like almonds. They aT-e useful for garnish- 
 ing. 
 
 PITKAITHLEY BANNOCK. 
 
 Dry before the fire one pound of fine flour ; 
 then melt half a pound of butter, and mix it 
 well with the flour. Add two ounces. of almonds, 
 blanched and thinly sliced, two ounces of can- 
 died orange-peel cut fine, two ounces of sugar, 
 and the same of caraway comfits. Knead all 
 ■well together, and bake for an hour in a slow 
 oven. Probable cost. Is. 2d. 
 36 
 
 tinues for the remainder of the year. It may be 
 known to be in good condition when the body 
 is thick and firm, the eyes bright, and the pale 
 side Blightly tinged with pink. Plaice is never 
 BO nice as when filleted, dipped into egg and 
 bread-crumbs, and fried. Probable cost, plaice, 
 when plentiful, 6d. or 8d. each. 
 
 PLAICE (k la Duchesse). 
 
 Boil a good-sized plaice in three parts water 
 and one of white wine or white vinegar, with two 
 Ijay-leaves, the rind of a lemon, and salt to 
 taste. Cook for fifteen or twenty minutes, ac- 
 cording to size. Take out the fiEh and keep it 
 hot. Strain the liquor, return it to the sauce- 
 pan with an ounce of butter rolled in fiour, the 
 grated rind of a lemon, and three ounces of 
 mixed capers; stir the sauce over a slow fire 
 until it thickens, and pour it over the fish. If 
 vinegar is used, only half the quantity of lemon 
 rind will be required. 
 
 PLAICE (i la Richmsnd). 
 
 Take a large plaice, fillet and cut it into small 
 strips the size of whitebait ; dry them well in a 
 floured cloth, season with pepper and salt, put 
 into a wire frying basket and plunge into boil- 
 ing fat for two minutes, not longer. Pile high 
 on a dish, and send a cut lemon and thin slices 
 of brown bread and butter to table. 
 
 PLAICE, BAKED. 
 
 Empty one or two moderate-sized plaice, 
 sprinkle a little salt over them, let them lie for . 
 a couple of hours, then drain them., and dry 
 them well with a soft cloth. Cut them across 
 into slices about two inches wide ; then mince 
 finely half an ounce of onions, spread a portion, 
 of them at the bottom of a baking-dish, and put 
 in an ounce of butter or good beef dripping, 
 and a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley. Put the 
 slices of plaice upon the onion, and cover with 
 the remainder, mixed with a little chopped 
 parsley and some finely-grated bread-crumbs. 
 Add a little pepper and salt if necessary, 
 lay an ounce of fat, broken into pieces, 
 on the top of the fish, and pour in at the side 
 a wine-glassful of stock or water. Put the dish 
 into a well-heated oven. As soon as the flesh 
 seems to shrink from the bone it is done enough. 
 Serve the plaice with its own gravy. If the fish 
 is not sufficiently browned in the baking, hold 
 a red-hot shovel over it for a minute or two. 
 
PLA 
 
 562 
 
 PLA 
 
 Time to bake, from ten to twenty minutes, ac- 
 cording to size and thickness. Probable cost, 
 plaice, when plentiful, 6d. or 8d. each. Suf- 
 ficient for three or four persons. 
 
 PLAICE, BAKED (au Gratin). 
 
 The larger the plaice for this purpose the 
 better. Salt and dry the fish, rinse it, and let 
 it drain. Take an oval dish that will hold the 
 plaice and stand the heat of the oven. Smear 
 the bottom well with butter; then scatter over 
 it a layer of grated bread-crumbs and chopped 
 parsley, with a little chopped shallot and three 
 chopped mushrooms, if liked. On this lay the 
 piaice, white side uppermost ; pour on it a tea- 
 spoonful of lemon-juice and two table-spoonfuls 
 of gravy; afterwards sprinkle on it fine bread- 
 crumbs and parsby. Set the dish in the oven, 
 which should be brisk enough to brown the 
 bread-crumbs. As soon as any juice comes 
 away, baste the fish with it, and continue to do 
 so till it is done enough. Serve in the dish in 
 which it was baked, and just before serving 
 sprinkle over the fish a few drops of lemon- juice. 
 
 PLAICE, BOILED. 
 
 Empty and clean the fish. Cut a slit through 
 the skin from the head down the back, to pre- 
 vent the white side breaking in boiling. Put 
 the plaice into cold water with a table-spoonful 
 of salt, and a wine-glassful of vinegar. Let it 
 boil, and carefully remove the scum, then draw 
 it to the side, and let it simmer gently until 
 done enough. The time required will of course 
 depend upon the size of the fish, and great care 
 must be taken that the plaice does not break. 
 Four or five minutes only will be sufiicient for 
 a moderate-sized fish. As soon as the flesh ap- 
 pears to shrink from the bone it is done enough. 
 Large plaice, however, are best for boiling. 
 Serve the fish on a neatly-folded napkin, garnish 
 with parsley or sliced lemon, and. send. shrimp 
 sauce, parsley sauce, or plain melted butter to 
 table _in a tureen. Probable cost, when plenti- 
 ful, 6d. or 8d. each. Sufficient, one moderate- 
 sized plaice for two persons. 
 
 PLAICE, BROILED. 
 
 Next to frying this is the best way to treat 
 plaice. Should the fish be inconveniently 
 large, divide it, and broil the pieces by twos and 
 threes. The fish can be cut up into squares by 
 division along the backbone, and then trans- 
 versed. 
 
 PLAICE, CHOOSING. 
 
 Kentish fishermen say the plaice is not at its 
 best until it has tasted May water ; but it is eat- 
 able during the greater part of the year. When 
 the fish is fresh, plump, clear-skinned, and with 
 the orange spots on the back brightly coloured, 
 it may be safely handed over for cooking. 
 
 PLAICE, CURRIED. 
 
 Put half a pound of Patna rice in a saucepan, 
 with two sliced onions, a little salt, a table- 
 spoonful of curry powder, end a pint of water. 
 Let this come to a boil, then cut up a good- 
 sized plaice into six pieces, put them into the 
 saucepan, and let them boil for fifteen minutes. 
 
 PLAICE, FILLETED. 
 
 Skin the plaioa. Lay it flat on the table, and 
 with "the point of a sharp knife cut right down 
 
 the backbone. Insert the knife close to the 
 head, slip it under the flesh, and jjass it from 
 head to tail. By this means the fillet may be 
 removed entire and smooth. Trim the ends 
 neatly, and the fish is ready to be fried or 
 stewed. Almost all fishmongers send the plaice 
 already filleted if desired to do so. 
 PLAICE, FILLETED, AND STEWED WITH 
 OYSTERS. 
 Fillet two or three moderate-sized plaice. 
 Dry them with a soft cloth, sprinkle a little salt 
 over them, dredge them lightly with flour, and 
 fry them in plenty of hot dripping until they are 
 nicely browned. Beard and drain a dozen 
 oysters. Put their liquor into a stewpan with 
 a quarter of a pint of white stock or water, a, 
 glass of white wine, three anchovies, and a 
 little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Simmer 
 it gently for a few minutes, then put in the 
 fillets with a piece of butter rolled in flour, and 
 let them remain until the sauce is smooth and 
 thick. A minute or two before serving the fish 
 put in the bearded oysters. When they are hot, 
 lay the plaice on a hot dish, and serve the sauce 
 round it. Time to fry the plaice, according to 
 thickness, say until it is a bright golden colour. 
 If the fish is very thick the pan should be held 
 high above the fire. Probable cost of moderate- 
 sized plaice when plentiful, 6d. or 8d. each. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 PLAICE, FRIED. 
 
 Fried plaice are best when they are filleted! 
 before they are fried (^^ee Plaice, Fillsted). 
 Indeed, this is by far the most satisfactory mode- 
 of dressing this fish. If preferred, the plaice 
 may be cut across into pieces about two inches, 
 wide. Sprinkle a little salt over the fish, and let 
 it lie for two or three hours. Dry it well, dredge 
 it with flour, then dip it into beaten egg and 
 fine bread-crumbs, sprinkle a tea^spoonful of 
 bread raspings over the top, and fry the fish in 
 plenty of hot fat until it is brightly coloured. 
 Drain well, and serve on a hot napkin. Garnisk 
 with green parsley. If preferred the plaice may 
 be simply floured instead of being egged and 
 breaded, or it may be fried in batter. (See 
 Battee fob. Feting.) 
 PLAICE, STEWED. 
 
 Take two or three moderate-sized plaice, cut- 
 them into pieces about as wide as the length of 
 a finger, sprinkle a little salt over them, and. 
 wrap them in a cloth for twenty minutes. Slice 
 a moderate-sized onion, and fry it in a little 
 hot fat until it is quite tender.- Put it into a 
 stewpan, lay the pieces of plaice on the top of 
 it, and add the juice of five or six lemons, a 
 wine-glassful of water, and a quarter of an 
 ounce of ground ginger. Simmer gently for 
 twenty minutes, and be careful not to let the 
 liquid reach the boiling point. Lift the fish 
 out, and place it on a hot dish. Let the sauce 
 cool, stir gradually into it three well-beaten 
 eggs, and keep stirring over the fire until it 
 begins to thicken, but it must not boil. Pour- 
 it over the fish, and servo hot. Garnish with 
 slices of lemon. Time, altogether, about three- 
 quarters of an hour. Probable cost, accordingf 
 to the number of the fish, the price of which, 
 when plentiful, would be 6d. or 8d. each. Suf- 
 ficient for three or four persons. 
 
PLA 
 
 563 
 
 PLO 
 
 PLAICE, WITH MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Take a j)laice weighing about two pounds, 
 trim it, dry it, and cut it into Blioes an iucii wide. 
 Make a pint of fish stock from the cuttings, and 
 strain it into a clean pan. Wash and break up 
 half a pound of mushrooms, fry them a little in 
 a bit of butter, then add them to the stock with 
 a table-spoonful of browned flour. Put the fish 
 in, season to taste, and simmer for twenty 
 minutes or so. Pile it on a dish, and pour the 
 gravy over. Probable cost. Is. 4d. 
 
 PLAITS OF PASTRY. 
 
 I Make half a pound of puff-paste, and give it 
 I nine turns, (see Puep-paste). Roll it out till it 
 is one-eighth of an inch in thickness, and cut 
 it into strips the third of an inch wide. Fasten 
 three, four, or five of these together at the ends, 
 moistening the pastry with a little water to 
 make the pieces stick together; plait them 
 evenly and loosely, and fasten them at the other 
 end. Place the plaits en an oiled baking-tin, 
 brush over them beaten egg,, and bake in a 
 well-heated oven. These plaits are useful for 
 ornamenting open tarts, or they may be sent 
 to table on a separate dish, with small portions 
 of ]"am of various colours placed in the empty 
 spaces. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost. Id. each. 
 
 PLANTAIN. 
 
 (/See Banana.) 
 
 PLOMBIERE'S ICE. 
 
 Blanch and peel six ounces of Jordan almonds 
 and ten bitter ones. Dry them in a soft cloth, 
 and pound to a smooth paste with a little 
 orange-flower water. Stir this paste into a pint 
 and a half of boiling milk, then press the liquid 
 through ajelly-bag. Mix ten yolks of eggs, well 
 beaten, with the milk, and stir the custard over 
 a moderate flre until it begins to thicken. Take 
 it off the fire, stir two or three minutes longer, 
 and strain it once more through a tamis. "When 
 cold freeze it, and when it is ready for serving 
 mould three rings of the iced cream, diminishing 
 in size as they go up. Pill the centre with 
 apricot jam, and serve. Time, about ten 
 minutes to boil the custard. Sufficient for six 
 or seven persons. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 
 PLOVER. 
 
 Though several kinds of plover are known to 
 naturalists, two species only are recognised in 
 cookery — the golden plover and the grey plover. 
 The golden plover is the commoner, and the grey 
 plover the larger of the two, though both are 
 smaller than a woodcock. They are pleasantly 
 flavoured birds, and are best when roasted like 
 woodcock without being drawn. In favourable 
 weather they will keep good some time, and are 
 better for being kept. They are at their best 
 from September to January. The egge of the 
 plover are highly esteemed. 
 
 PLOVER, GOLDEN, ROASTED. 
 
 Truss like woodcock, and roast before a 
 brisk fire. Put a slice of toasted bread 
 about half an inch thick under the birds, and 
 baste constantly with butter until sufficiently 
 cooked. Serve the plovers on the toast, which 
 should be well saturated with the basting and 
 the trail. Pour some good gravy over them in 
 
 the dish (see Gravy fob Gtamb). Time, about a 
 
 quarter of an hour to roast. Probable cost, 
 
 2s. 6d. per brace. Sufficient, a brace for two 
 
 persons. 
 
 PLOVERS, CHOOSING OF. 
 
 Choose those birds which feel hard at the vent, 
 which shows they are fat. In other respects 
 plovers should be selected by the same marks as 
 
 
 f 'A-.>3=-*C*'— *:* '■' 
 
 THE GOLDEN PLOVEB. 
 
 other fowls. When stale, the feet are dry. 
 Plovers will keep a long time. In consequence 
 of a peculiarity in the flavour of the plover, the 
 bird is not universally liked; with some, how- 
 ever, it is a favourite. The grey plover is 
 superior, as game, to the golden. 
 PLOVERS' EGGS. 
 
 Plovers' eggs are esteemed a great delicacy. 
 They are usually boiled hard, and sent to table 
 either hot or cold. If hot they should be placed 
 on a napkin; if cold in a moss-lined basket. 
 They are frequently shelled, and served with 
 good white sauce or brown gravy poured over 
 them; or used as a garnish for salads. Half » 
 dozen plovers' eggs neatly arranged in a moss 
 basket form a very pretty addition to the break- 
 fast-table. One of the little baskets in which 
 fruit is sold by the greengrocers may be utilised 
 for the purpose. It should have a twist of wire 
 fastened into it for a handle, then be brushed 
 over with gum, and both handle and basket 
 entirely covered with green. If no other moss 
 is at hand, packets may be bou|;ht at the green- 
 grocer's for a trifling sum. 'Kme to boil the 
 eggs, ten minutes. Probable cost, uncertain. 
 Sufficient — allow one or two for each person. 
 ((See also Eoos, Plovebs'.) 
 
 PLOVERS' EGG SALAD (a [a Chartreuse). 
 
 Take a plain charlotte mould, and line it with ! 
 pale aspic jelly; cut some hard-boiled plovers' 
 eggs in slices ; take the largest centre pieces and 
 put them in a ring, overlapping, at the bottom 
 of the mould, with a star-shaped, slice of trufiie 
 in the centre; put a row of chervil leaves in 
 between. Proceed with rows of e^% slices and 
 chervil leaves until within an inch of the edge 
 of the mould, remembering that, each row of 
 sliced eggs should overlap in the contrary direc- 
 tion to the, one preceding it. That is, work first 
 
PLO 
 
 564 
 
 PLU 
 
 from right to left, then from left to right. The 
 last row in the mould should be of small stars 
 of truffle; thus, when turned out, there will be 
 truffle at bottom and top, and a very artistic 
 dish is the result. Now cut up any egg that is 
 left, add a little chicken or ham in dice, mix 
 it with any nice salad mayonnaise, turn out the 
 mould, and put the salad inside. The mould 
 should stand on ice for half an hour before 
 turning out. 
 
 PLOVERS' EGGS, BOILED. 
 
 Boil in the same way as hen's eggs, allowing 
 from eight to ten minutes ; arrange them nicely, 
 and; if served in a napkin, garnish with parsley. 
 Serve brown bread and butter with them. 
 Some people dislike the method of serving in a 
 basket above mentioned; in which case a nap- 
 kin, prettily folded, should be used. 
 
 PLOVERS' EGGS, BOUCHEES OF. 
 
 Boil five or six eggs hard. "When cold, cut 
 them through lengthwise; mask the outsides 
 with a little nicely-fiavoured forcemeat. Make 
 this quite smooth, then dip in a rich batter, and 
 fry in boiling fat to a golden brown. Pile in a 
 serviette, and garnish with fried parsley. 
 
 PLOVERS' EGGS, IN CASES. 
 
 Take some fireproof china cases, one for each 
 egg, coat them round the bottom and sides with 
 forcemeat (see Potjltbt, Forcemeat or), which 
 can be made more savoury by frying a chopped 
 mushroom or two with the herbs, and mixing 
 them with it. Break an egg into each case, and 
 cover with a layer of forcemeat, making it 
 smooth with a knife. Set these in a tin of 
 boiling water in the oven, and let them simmer 
 till firm, which will take about, fifteen minutes. 
 Turn out on a hot dish, pour a little rich white 
 sauce over, and sprinkle them with chopped 
 truffle, parsley, and grated ham: Serve hot. 
 Probable cost, 6d. to 8d. each. 
 
 PLOVERS, FRIED, WITH TRUFFLES. 
 
 Pluck four plovers, and truss them as if for 
 roasting. Lay them breast downwards in a 
 stewpan, with four ounces of fresh butter and 
 seven or eight raw truffles which have been 
 washed perfectly clean, wiped, pared very thin, 
 and cut into slices about the size of a penny. 
 Add two cloves, a bay-leaf, and a little salt and 
 pepper. Stir the whole gently over a sharp fire 
 for ten minutes, then pour in a pint of stock 
 which has been smoothly mixed with a dessert- 
 spoonful of flour, and a glass of sherry. Sim- 
 mer gently by the side of the fire for twenty 
 minutes, and skim the liquid carefully. Place 
 the birds on a hot dish. Boil the sauce quickly 
 till it is thick and smooth, flavour with the 
 strained juice of a lemon, add a small lump 
 of sugar and half a tea-spoonful of browning, and 
 pour it hot over the birds; serve immediately. 
 Time, half an hour. Probable cost, plovers, 
 2s. 6d. per brace. Sufficient for five or six people. 
 
 PLOVERS, PIE OF. 
 
 Pluck, draw, and skin three plovers, and truss 
 them as for roaBting. Lay at the bottom of a 
 moderate-sized pie-dish half a pound of rump 
 steak, cut into convenient-sized pieces, and 
 season these rather highly with pepper and salt. 
 Lay the birds upon them, and beside each bird 
 
 place the yolk of a hard-boiled egg. Clean a 
 dozen moderate-sized mushrooms, cut the stalks 
 off, and lay them at the top of the pie. Pour in 
 half a pint of good brown gravy. Line the 
 edges of the dish with puff-paste, cover it with 
 the same, ornament prettiSy, make a hole in the 
 top, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to 
 bake the pie, about an hour and a half. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 PLOVERS, ROASTED. 
 
 Pluck a brace of plovers without drawing 
 them, and wipe them well outside with a damp 
 cloth. Truss them with the legs close to the 
 body, and the feet pressing upon the thighs; 
 bring the head round under the wing. Put 
 them down to a clear fire. Lay in the pan slices 
 of toast, one slice for each bird, first mojsteniug 
 it in good gravy, and baste the plovers liberally. 
 A few minutes before they are done dredge a 
 little flour over them, and let them be nicely 
 frothed. Spread the trail which has dropped 
 from the birds evenly upon the toast, and serve 
 the birds upon it. A little melted butter may 
 be sent to table in a tureen. Time to roast the 
 birds, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 
 plovers, 2s. 6d. a brace. Sufficient for two 
 persons. (See also Ploveb, Golden, Eoasted.) 
 
 PLOVERS, STEWED. 
 
 Pluck and draw a brace of plovers. Mince the 
 trail, and mix with it two ounces of finely- 
 shredded beef suet, four roasted chestnuts 
 pounded, the yolks of two hard-boiled egg^s, and 
 two artichoke bottoms boiled and minced; mix 
 these ingredients thoroughly, and season rather 
 highly with pepper and salt. Fill the birds with 
 the forcemeat, and truss them as if for roasting. 
 Put them side by side in a stewpan just large 
 enough to hold them, pour over them three- 
 quarters of a pint of good brown gravy, and 
 add a glass of port or claret, a table-spoonful of 
 strained lemon-juice, a bunch of parsley, a sprig 
 of thyme, a bay-leaf, three or four mushrooms, 
 or, failing the latter, a table-spoonful of mush- 
 room ketchup, and a little pepper and salt if re- 
 quired. Cover the saucepan closely, and stew 
 gently for half an hour. Take up the birds, and 
 put them in a hot dish. Strain the gravy, and 
 thicken it with a dessert-spoonful of brown 
 thickening. If this is not at hand, a little may 
 be made by mixing equal proportions of flour 
 and butter, and stirring the paste quickly over a 
 gentle fire for three minutes, then putting it into 
 the sauce, and boiling it until smooth. Pour the 
 gravy round the birds, and garnish the dish with 
 plovers' eggs boiled hard, shelled, cut into 
 quarters, and placed round it. Time to stew, 
 half an hour. Probable cost, plovers, 2s. 6d. per 
 brace. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 PLUM. 
 
 The plum ds an agreeable and refreshing 
 though not very wholesome fruit. There are 
 several varieties, and these may be cooked in a 
 great many ways, all of which are generally ac- 
 ceptable. This fruit, if eaten when unripe or 
 unsound, is almost sure to bring on diarrhoea. 
 It is not so objectionable when cooked. 
 
 PLUM AND PEAR JAM, WITHOUT SUGAR. 
 
 Take half a peck of ripe pears, and another 
 of ripe plums. Peel and stone them. Pour a 
 
PLU 
 
 565 
 
 PLU 
 
 cupful of good cider into a preserving-pan with 
 the fruit, and a quarter of an ounce of powdered 
 cloves. Let the mixture boil gently, with in- 
 cessant stirring, until it is thick and smooth, 
 and be very careful that it does not burn to the 
 bottom of the pan. Pour it into jars, cover with 
 brandied paper and bladder, and store in a cool 
 dry place. Time, about two hours 
 
 PLUM BEVERAGE, FRENCH, FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 Take half a dozen fine French plums. Put 
 them into a stewpan with a, pint of boiling 
 water, and let them simmer gently for twenty 
 minutes. Pour them into a, bowl. When cold 
 take out the plums (which may be put aside for 
 eating), sweeten the liquid according to taste, 
 stir into it a table-spoonful of port, and it is 
 ready for use. Probable cost, 8d. SufB.cient for 
 one person. 
 
 PLUM BUDS, TO PICKLE. 
 
 Throw the buds into plenty of hot salted 
 water, and let them simmer gently until they 
 are soft. Strain the liquid from them, and let 
 them get quite cold. Boil as much white-wine 
 vinegar as will cover them, and flavour accord- 
 ing to taste with mace and white pepper. Pour 
 the liquid over the buds, and let them lie in it 
 eight or nine days. Afterwards boil them in the 
 vinegar until they turn green. Pour them into 
 bottles, and when cold cover closely, and store 
 for use. Probable cost uncertain, plum buds 
 being seldom offered for sale. 
 
 PLUM BUNS, MADE WITH YEAST. 
 
 Mix half a tea-spoonful of salt with three 
 pounds of best flour. Rub into this three- 
 quarters of a pound of fresh butter or good beef 
 dripping. Put the mixture into a bowl, and 
 make a hole in the centre. Moisten an ounce 
 of German yeast smoothly and gradually with 
 three-quarters of a pint of lukewarm water. 
 If preferred, a quarter of a pint of good 
 brewer's yeast m-ay be substituted for the 
 German yeast. Put the yeast into the hollow, 
 and mix with it a little of the flour till it is like 
 thin batter, then put it on the hearth for about 
 an hour to sponge. Whisk two fresh eggs, and 
 mix with them twelve ounces of moist sugar. 
 Stir them into the yeast, and knead the dough 
 thoroughly with a. pint of warm milk. Cover 
 it with a cloth, and let it stand until it is 
 lightly risen. It will require about an hour 
 and a half. Add six ounces of well-washed and 
 dried currants, mould the dough into buns 
 about the size of a large egg, place them in rows 
 upon a buttered baking-tin, with fully three 
 inches between them, and set them before the 
 fire for about ten minutes to rise. Bake in a 
 brisk oven for about a quarter of an hour. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for about three 
 dozen buns. 
 
 PLUM BUNS, WITHOUT YEAST, PLAIN. 
 
 Mix thoroughly a tea-spoonful of carbonate of 
 soda with a tea-spoonful of tartaric acid. Rub 
 this and half a tea-spoonful of salt into two 
 pounds of flour. Work in a quarter of a pound 
 of fresh butter, and add -a quarter of a pound 
 of nloist sugar, a quarter of a pound of washed 
 and dried currants, and, if liked, a few caraway- 
 seeds. Make a hole in the centre of the flour, 
 and pour into this two eggs which have been 
 
 well beaten and mixed with a pint of lukewarm 
 milk. Stir all quickly with a knife, and when 
 the dough is ready mould it into buns, place 
 these on a buttered baking-tin, and bake in a 
 brisk oven for a quarter of an hour or more. 
 Probable cost. Is. 4d. Sufficient for about two 
 dozen buns. 
 
 PLUM CAKE. 
 
 Mix a pinch of salt and a dessert-spoonful 
 of baking-powder with one pound of flour. Eub 
 into this a quarter of a pound of good beef 
 dripping, and add a quarter of a pound of 
 sugar, and half a pound of picked and dried 
 currants, one ounce of finely minced lemon-peel, 
 and half a nutmeg grated. Make the mixture 
 into a stiff dough with new milk, pour it into 
 ii buttered tin, and bake immediately for about 
 an hour. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for a 
 moderate-sized cake 
 
 PLUM CAKE. 
 
 (See CuEEANT Cakes.; 
 PLUM CAKE (another way). 
 
 Beat one pound of butter to a cream, and mix 
 with it three well-beaten eggs, two pounds of 
 best flour, one pound of currants, one pound of 
 sugar, five heaped tea-spoonfuls of baking- 
 powder, and a pinch of salt. Mix rather lightly 
 with lukewarm milk. Put the dough into 
 buttered tins, and bake immediately. This 
 cake is very good, but does not improve with 
 keeping more than a day or two. Time to 
 bake, one or two hours, according to the size of 
 the tins. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient for 
 two or three cakes. 
 
 PLUM CAKE, EXCELLENT. 
 
 Mix three tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder and 
 half a tea-spoonful of salt with one pound of 
 flour. Rub into this half a pound of butter, 
 lard, or sweet beef dripping, or portions of each. 
 Add three-quarters of a pound of washed, dried, 
 and picked currants, a quarter of a pound of 
 stoned and chopped raisins, half a, pound of 
 moist sugar, two ounces of candied peel cut into 
 narrow strips, and a small nutmeg, grated. Mix 
 these ingredients thoroughly. Whisk two eggs 
 for five or six minutes. Mix with them four 
 drops of almond essence and a little milk new- 
 milk-warm. Stir this into the flour, and add as 
 much milk as will make it into a light dough. 
 Put it into a large buttered tin, or two small 
 ones, and bake immediately for one or two 
 hours, according to the size of the tins. 
 Probable cost, 2b. Sufficient for a good-sized 
 cake. 
 
 PLUM CAKE, MADE WITH SODA. 
 
 Rub a quarter of a pound of butter into a 
 pound of flour, add a pinch of salt, half a pound 
 of sugar, half a pound of washed and dried cur- 
 rants, and two ounces of candied peel cut into 
 shreds. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, then 
 beat them into a paste together with half a pint 
 of milk. Dissolve a tea-spoonful of carbonate 
 of soda in two table-spoonfuls of warm milk. 
 Stir this into the dough, and beat it again thor- 
 oughly. Put it into a buttered tin, and bake in 
 a well-heated oven from an hour and a half to 
 two hours. Sufficient for a good-sized cake. 
 Probable cost. Is. 4d. 
 
PLU 
 
 566 
 
 PLU 
 
 PLUM CAKE, PLAIN, FOR FAMILY USE. 
 
 Take three pounds of best flour, and mix 
 with it a dessert-spoonful of salt. Make a hole 
 in the centre, and pour in an ounce of German 
 yeast, which has been gradually and perfectly 
 moistened and blended with half a pint of luke- 
 warm water. Stir to this as much of the sur- 
 rounding flour as will make a batter, then 
 throw a cloth over the bowl, and put it near the 
 fire for about an hour. When the yeast has 
 risen to the top of the flour, cut up half a pound 
 of butter, lard, or good beef dripping. Dissolve 
 this in half a pint of hot milk, and add as much 
 cold milk as will make it new-milk- warm. A 
 beaten egg or two may be added or not, and a 
 grated nutmeg, or half an ounce of powdered 
 allspice. Put in half a pound of brown sugar, 
 and knead all well together, adding 3, little 
 more milk if necessary. Cover it again, and set 
 it to rise for about an hour, until it is very 
 light, then add half a pound of stoned and 
 chopped raisins, and three-quarters of a pound 
 of washed and dried currants. Put the dough 
 into half a dozen well-greased tins, and bake in 
 a moderate oven. In order to ascertain whether 
 or hot a cake is sufficiently baked, plunge the 
 blade of a knife into the middle of it ; if it 
 comes out clean the cake is done enough. Time 
 
 ^ to bake, one hour or more, according to the 
 size of the tins. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. Suf- 
 
 . ficient for six small or three moderate-sized 
 
 'cakes. 
 
 PLUM CAKE, PLAIN, MADE WITH BAKER'S 
 ' DOUGH. 
 
 Those who are not in the habit of making 
 bread at home may procure a little dough from 
 the baker's, and proceed as follows. Take two 
 pounds of dough. Put it at once into a basin, 
 cover with a thick cloth, and let it rise. Place 
 it on a floured paste-board, sprinkle over it a 
 tea-spoonful of baking-powder, and add a 
 quarter of a pound of lard or butter broken into 
 small pieces, a quarter of a pound of moist 
 sugar, a quarter of a pound of stoned raisins, a 
 quarter of a pound of washed and dried cur- 
 rants, a few caraway-seeds, if liked, and a 
 grated nutmeg. Knead thoroughly with as 
 ,much lukewarm milk as is necessary. Butter 
 some tins; half fill them with the preparation, 
 place them on the hearth until the dough has 
 risen so that they are three-parts full, then bake 
 the cakes in a well-heated oven. Plunge a knife 
 into the middle of each; when it comes out 
 clean they are done enough. Time to bake, one 
 or two hours, according to the size of the tins. 
 Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for three small 
 loaves. 
 
 PLUM CAKE: RICH. 
 
 ; Put a pound and a half of butter into 
 a good - sized bowl, and beat it to a cream. 
 Mix with it the whites of eight fresh eggs 
 whisked to a froth, and afterwards the yolks 
 well beaten, and add a dessert - spoonful of 
 salt, a pound of powdered sugar, a pound and 
 a half of flour, two pounds of currants washed, 
 picked, and dried, eight ounces each of candied 
 lemon and citron cut into narrow strips, half 
 an ounce of mixed spices, consisting of nutmeg, 
 cinnamon, and allspice, all pounded to a 
 powder, half a pound of almonds, blanched and 
 
 pounded, three or four lumps of sugar rubbeci 
 upon the rind of four oranges, and then 
 powdered. Add each ingredient separately, and 
 beat it well in before adding another. A glass- 
 ful of brandy may be stirred in if liked. If this 
 cake is to be light, it should be beaten fully 
 three-quarters of an hour. Line a tin with double 
 folds of buttered paper, pour in the mixture, 
 and bake the cake in a moderate oven. Put 
 twelve folds of paper under the cake, and four 
 or five on the top of it, to prevent it burning. 
 Time to bake, three hours if made into one cake, 
 one hour and a half each if made into two. 
 Probable cost, 5s. 6d., without the brandy. 
 Sufficient for one large or two small cakes. 
 
 PLUM CAKE, RICH, ICING FOR. 
 
 Rich plum cakes are much improved if they 
 are covered with almonds and sugar icing. 
 They may then be used as Twelfth-cakes. The 
 almond paste is made as follows. Blanch and 
 peel half a pound of almonds. Pound them in 
 a mortar to a smooth paste, and whilst pound- 
 ing add a few drops of orange-flower water to 
 keep them from oiling. Mix with them one 
 pound of powdered and sifted loaf sugar, and 
 add sufficient white of egg to make a soft paste. 
 Bake the cake and let it get cold. Spread the 
 almond paste smoothly over it, and when it is 
 hard cover with sugar icing about a quarter 
 
 ,of an inch thick. To make the sugar icing, 
 take the whites of two or, if necessary, thrqe 
 eggs, and do not beat them. Mix with them 
 two pounds of icing sugar to make a stiffisli 
 
 'paste that will not run, and add a few drops of 
 lemon-juice occasionally. Mix, but do not 
 worJe, the icing, and spread it evenly on the 
 cake with the hands, which should have been 
 dipped in cold water, put it in a cool oven or 
 hot-screen until it is dry and hard. Ornament 
 it in any way that fancy suggests. Eaised and 
 mottoed ornaments may be fastened upon it, or 
 a small portion of the icing may be made 
 thicker with a little more sugar, and then be 
 squeezed through the small end of a piece of 
 paper twisted in the form of a sugar-bag, to 
 make a piping. 
 
 PLUM CHEESE, MADE FROM PLUMS WHICH 
 HAVE BEEN USED FOR JELLY. 
 
 Skin and stone the plums from which the 
 juice has been strained. Weigh them, and boil 
 them until dry. Mix one pound of powdered 
 loaf sugar with every three pounds of fruit, and 
 boil it again until the pulp leaves the sides of 
 the pan with the spoon. Press it into shallow 
 moulds, cover it as jam is covered, and store in 
 a cool dry place. Time to boil, one hour and a 
 quarter to boil the fruit by itself, half an hour 
 to boil it with the sugar. 
 
 PLUM JAM. 
 
 The directions for making various linds of 
 plum jam are given under the name of the plum 
 itself. There are so many varieties of this fruit, 
 and these differ so much in quality and sweet- 
 ness, that hardly any general recipe can be 
 given. Nevertheless, as there are numerous 
 occasions, especially in towns, where fruit is 
 bought without its distinctive name being 
 known, the following instructions are given, as 
 they will answer for most kinds of the fruit. It 
 
PLU 
 
 567 
 
 PLU 
 
 must be remembered that when the plums are 
 Tery hard and sour a large proportion of sugar 
 will be req^uired. Divide the plums, and take 
 out the stones; or, if preferred, merely gash 
 them with a silver knife, and remove the stones 
 as they rise in the pan. Spread the plums out 
 on large dishes, sprinkle over them three pounds 
 of sugar to every four pounds of fruit, and let 
 them remain for twenty-four hours. Put them 
 into a preserving-pan, and bring them gently 
 to a boil, stirring them with a wooden spoon 
 to keep them from burning. Carefully remove 
 the scum as it rises, afterwards boil the plums 
 quickly for a quarter of an hour. If liked, a 
 few of the stones can be cracked, and the 
 kernels peeled and added to the jam two or 
 three, minutes before the jam is taken from the 
 fire. When the jam sets and the plums are 
 tender, the preparation is sufficiently boiled. 
 
 PLUM JELLY. 
 
 Take four pounds of sound, ripe, red plums. 
 Boil them in four quarts of water until the 
 liquid is reduced to three pints. Strain through 
 a jelly-bag, and with each pint of juice put a 
 pound of sugar. Boil the syrup until it jellies. 
 Pour into small jars, and cover in the usual 
 way. Or, put the plums into a deep earthen 
 jar, cover It closely, and set it in a pan of boil- 
 ing water, which must be kept boiling until the 
 plums yield their juice readily. Pour the juice 
 from them, strain, and measure it ; then boil it 
 quickly for twenty-five minutes. Put with it 
 three pounds of sugar for every four pints of 
 juice, and boil it until it will stiffen. In either 
 of the above cases the plums from which the 
 juice has been strained may be sweetened and 
 used for common pies; or they may be made 
 into plum pastf foi dessert. 
 
 PLUM KALTESCHALE (a German dish for hot 
 weather). 
 Take one pound of sound ripe plums, put 
 them into a deep earthen jar, sprinkle over them 
 a quarter of a pound of lump-sugar, and pour 
 half a pint of water over them. Tie two or 
 three folds of paper over the jar, and set it in a 
 pan three-parts full of boiling water, which 
 must be kept boiling until the plums are quite 
 soft ; then lift the jar out, and put it aside 
 until the next day. Press the pulp through 
 a tamis. Crack the stones, and boil the kernels, 
 with the thick part which will not pass the 
 strainer, half a stick of cinnamon, and two 
 cloves, in half a pint of water for twenty 
 minutes. Strain the liquid into the fruit. Add 
 a little sugar to taste, and wine — claret for red 
 plums, and light Ehine wine for green ones — 
 with a little more water, if liked. Serve the 
 fruit in a comp6te dish, with a slice of toast cut 
 into dice, and thrown when cold into the fruit. 
 Time, two days to prepare. Probable cost, 8d., 
 exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 PLUM LOAF, PLAIN. 
 
 Put two pounds of best flour into a bowl, and 
 mix with it half a tea-spoonful of salt, half a 
 pound of picked and dried currants, four ounces 
 of moist sugar, and half a nutmeg, grated. Dis- 
 solve half an ounce of German yeast very 
 gradually in three-quarters of a pint, of luke- 
 
 warm milk, in which has been dissolved four 
 ounces of butter or good beef dripping. Stir 
 this into the flour, and knead it to a smooth 
 paste. Put a cover over the bowl, and set the 
 dough to rise for about an hour. Make it up into 
 a loaf, put it into a buttered tin, and bake in a 
 moderate oven. If preferred, a table-spoonful 
 of solid brewer's yeast or two dessert-spoonfuls 
 of baking-powder may be used instead of the 
 German yeast. In order to ascertain whether 
 the loaf is sufficiently baked, put a skewer into 
 it; if it comes out clean and dry, the cake is 
 done. It is perhaps a better plan to knead in 
 the sugar, currants, and spice after the dough 
 has risen (as in Plum Cake, Plain). 
 
 PLUM LOZENGES, FOR DESSERT. 
 
 Put a pound of ripe and sound Orleans plums 
 into a jar, and place them in a saucepan of 
 boiling water over the fire until they are so soft 
 that the stones can be removed. Whilst this 
 is being done, soften in the same way half a 
 pound of cored and sliced apples. Turn both 
 plums and apples into a preserving-pan. Put 
 with them the juice of half a lemon, and three- 
 quarters of a pound of sugar, and boil quickly 
 for three-quarters of an hour. Stir well to keep 
 the fruit from burning. Pour the paste -upon 
 shallow dishes, and when it is cold cut it into 
 lozenges, and dry these on a sieve before the 
 fire. Keep them between sheets of writing- 
 paper in a tin box. 
 
 PLUM MARMALADE. ., 
 
 Pick the stalks from the fruit, weigh it, gash 
 it with a silver knife, and put it into a preserv- 
 ing-pan. Let it simmer gently until the fruit 
 is quite soft, lift out the stones as they rise to 
 the surface, and keep the plums well stirred to 
 prevent their burning. Press the pulp through 
 a coarse sieve. Mix with it three-quarters of a 
 pound of sugar to a pint of pulp, and boil 
 gently, stirring constantly till the marmalade is 
 very thick. Pour the marmalade into jelly-pots, 
 and cover closely. 
 
 PLUM PORRIDGE OR BROTH. 
 
 Plum porridge was a favourite dish two hun- 
 dred years ago, but it is now almost obsolete, 
 as it has been superseded by plum pudding. 
 The following is a recipe of Queen Anne's time. 
 Take ten pounds of the shin of beef, and two 
 pounds of the neck, and boil these in three 
 gallons of water for five hours. Strain the 
 liquor, and skim carefully. Put it back into 
 the saucepan, with three pounds of stoned 
 raisins, three pounds of stewed prune's, and two 
 pounds of currants, and let the fruit boil gently 
 for an hour. Take the crumb of a twopenny 
 loaf, dip it into the liquid, and beat it smoothly 
 with a fork. Mix with it the pulped prunes, 
 an ounce of powdered cinnamon, a quarter of 
 an ounce of powdered cloves, half an ounce of 
 grated nutmeg, and a quarter of an ounce 
 of powdered mace. Put this mixture into the 
 soup to thicken it, and boil for a quarter of an 
 hour, stirring all the time to keep the soup from 
 burning. Add sufficient sugar to suit the taste, 
 a little salt, a quart of claret, and half a pint 
 of sack. Cut some white bread into dice. liay 
 them in a, soup tureen, put a piece of the meat, 
 over them, pour in the broth, and serve. 
 
PLU 
 
 S6S 
 
 PLU 
 
 PLUM PUDDING, APPLE. 
 
 (.See Apple Plum Pcdding.) 
 
 PLUM PUDDING, BAKED. 
 
 Shred finely half a pound of beef suet, mix 
 with it a salt-spoonful of salt, a pound of flour, 
 a heaped tea-spoonful of baking-powder, half a 
 pound of picked and dried currants, half a 
 pound of stoned raisins, one ounce of candied 
 peel cut into thin strips, two table-spoonfuls of 
 sugar, and a little grated nutmeg. Mix the 
 dry ingredients thoroughly. Moisten them with 
 an egg beaten up with as much milk as will 
 make a 'thick batter. Pour this into a buttered 
 dish, and bake in a well-heated oven. Turn 
 the pudding out before serving, and strew 
 powdered sugar thickly over it before sending 
 it to table. For a plain pudding, the egg and 
 half the fruit may be omitted. Time to bake, 
 from an hour and a half to two hours.. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 4d. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 PLUM PUDDING, BAKED, WITHOUT SUET. 
 
 Grate finely half a pound of the crumb of a 
 stale loaf. Pour over it half a pint of boiling 
 milk, and beat into it whilst warm four ounces 
 of butter. Let this stand until cold, then add a 
 quarter of a pound of picked currants, a quarter 
 of a pound of chopped raisins, three ounces of 
 moist sugar, an ounce and a half of candied 
 peel cut into shreds, half a salt-spoonful of 
 grated nutmeg, and a, pinch of salt. Beat 
 all these ingredients smoothly together; add 
 two well-beaten eggs, and a table-spoonful of 
 brandy if liked. Pour the mixture into a 
 buttered mould, and bake in a well-heated 
 oven. Turn the pudding out before serving, 
 and sift powdered sugar thickly over it. This 
 pudding can be steamed instead of baked. 
 When this is done, the basin which contains 
 it should be put into a saucepan upon a plate 
 which has been turned upside down. Boiling 
 water, three inches deep, should be poured 
 round it, and this should be kept boiling until 
 the pudding is done enough. It is very good 
 cold. Time to bake or steam, an hour and a 
 quarter. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 
 PLUM PUDDING, CHRISTMAS. 
 
 (/See Cheistmas Plum Puddins.) 
 
 PLUM PUDDING, COTTAGE. 
 
 {See Cottage Plum Puddino.) 
 
 PLUM PUDDING, ECONOMICAL. 
 
 Shred a quarter of a pound of beef suet very 
 finely ; mix with it three-quarters of a pound of 
 flour, three-quarters of a pound of bread- 
 crumbs, half -a pound of raisins stoned and 
 chopped, half a pound of currants, half a pound 
 of moist sugar, the peel of a lemon finely 
 shredded, and half a nutmeg, grated. Mix the 
 dry ingredients thoroughly, and stir in with 
 them six well-beaten eggs and as much milk as 
 is required to make a stiff paste. Put the 
 pudding into a floured cloth, and tie it up, not 
 too tightly, but leaving room for it to swell. 
 Put it into a pan of boiling water, and keep it 
 boiling quickly for five hours. Do not turn it 
 out of the cloth until just before it is to be 
 served. Send sweet sauce to table in a tureen. 
 
 If preferred, three eggs only msy be used, and 
 three heaped tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 PLUM PUDDING, EXCELLENT. 
 
 Take six ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, 
 and mix with them a pound of flour, a pound of 
 finely-shredded beef suet, a tea-spoonful of salt, 
 half a pound of raw sugar, three-quarters of a 
 pound of stoned and chopped raisins, three- 
 quarters of a pound of currants, two ounces each 
 of candied lemon, orange, and citron cut into 
 shreds, a quarter of a pound of apples, pared, 
 cored, and chopped, half an ounce of mixed 
 spice, consisting of pounded cloves, cinnamon 
 and grated nutmeg, and half a tea-spoonful of 
 finely-minced lemon-rind. Mix these ingredients 
 thoroughly, then make the mixture into a stiff 
 batter by adding to it five eggs beaten up with 
 half a pint of milk and a glass of brandy. 
 Turn the pudding either into a cloth or a 
 mould; if the latter is used, it must be filled 
 to the brim, and covered with a cloth. Put the 
 pudding into boiling water, and keep it boiling 
 until done enough. Sift powdered sugar over 
 the pudding: before serving it, and send brandy 
 sauce or whip sauce to table in a tureen. Time 
 to boil, five hours. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient 
 for seven or eight persons. 
 
 PLUM PUDDING, FAMILY. 
 
 Beat four eggs thoroughly. Mix with them 
 half a pint of new milk and a tea-spoonful of 
 salt. Then stir in half a pound of beef suet 
 finely shredded, a pound of raisins stoned and 
 chopped, four ounces of currants picked and 
 dried, four ounces of brown sugar, a grated 
 nutmeg, and an ounce of candied peel cut into 
 strips. Stir these ingredients well together, 
 and pour in another half -pint of milk ; then add 
 equal quantities of grated crumb-qf-bread and 
 flour, to make a stiff paste. Half an ounce of 
 almonds blanched and chopped small, a little 
 more candied peel, and a few more currants, may 
 be added if liked, but if the pudding is too rich 
 it will not be so likely to turn out properly. 
 It may be boiled either in a cloth or in a mould. 
 In a cloth it will be more quickly cooked ; it will 
 look better if boiled in a mould. A glassful 
 of brandy and a dessert-spoonful of noyeau 
 stirred into the sauce greatly improves this 
 judding. Time to boil, four to five hours. 
 Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for six or seven 
 persons. 
 
 PLUM PUDDING, FRENCH. 
 
 {See French Plum Pudding.) 
 
 PLUM PUDDING, HEDGEHOG. 
 
 Grate ohe pound of stale bread very finely, 
 and mix with it half a, pound of dried flour. 
 Add a tea-spoonful of salt, a pound of currants 
 darefuUy cleaned and dried, a pound of raisins 
 stoned and chopped, a pound of beef suet finely 
 minced, two ounces each of candied lemon, 
 citron, and orange, half a pound of brown 
 sugar, some lump sugar which has been rubbed 
 on the rind of a large lemon and crushed to 
 powder, a small nutmeg, grated, an ounce of 
 sweet almonds and three bitter ones blanched 
 and chopped small. Mix the dry ingredients 
 thoroughly; moisten them with eight eggs well 
 
PLU 
 
 569 
 
 PLU 
 
 beaten up and mixed with a glass of brandy or a 
 glassful of ale. If preferred, milk may be used 
 instead of the ale, but no more liquid should be 
 employed than is required to moisten the pud- 
 ding. Tie the pudding in a mould or cloth, put 
 it into a large pan of boiling water, and keep it 
 boiling until done enough. If a mould is used, 
 the pudding should entirely fill it. Turn it out, 
 and when it is dished, stick over it, as thickly 
 as possible, three ounces of almonds which have 
 been already blanched. This pudding will keep 
 for six months after boiling. It will only re- 
 quire to be boiled again for an hour before being 
 used. Time to boil, ten hours. If the pudding 
 is allowed to simmer only, the sweetness will go 
 into the water. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Suf- 
 ficient for eight or nine persons. 
 
 PLUM PUDDING, PLAIN. 
 
 Shred six ounces of suet very finely, add a 
 pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of currants, 
 a quarter of a pound of raisins, half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and a tea-spoonful of baking- 
 powder. Mis the dry ingredients thoroughly, 
 and stir into them three-quarters of a pint of 
 milk in which has been dissolved three table- 
 spoonfuls of treacle. Tie the pudding in a 
 cloth, and boil it until done enough. A little 
 spice and sugar may be added if liked., Time 
 to boil, three hours. Probable cost, 9d. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 PLUM PUDDING, SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Plum pudding, when served at Christmas, is 
 generally sent to table with brandy only poured 
 over it and lighted. At other times, or when 
 sauce is required, sweetened melted butter, 
 flavoured or not with, brandy, lus-y be served in 
 a tureen, or any of the following sauces. Rich 
 ^S'aMce.^Take two spoonfuls of pounded lump 
 sugar, and, if Kked, a pinch of grated lemon- 
 rind. Put it into a bowl by the side of the fire, 
 and pour over it a table-spoonful of brandy, and 
 two ounces of clarified butter. When the sugar 
 is thoroughly dissolved, pour in another table- 
 spoonful of brandy, and a glass of sherry. Stir 
 the sauce a minute, and pour it over the 
 pudding, or serve in a tureen. If liked, the 
 mixture may be stirred into a, quarter of a pint 
 of thick melted butter, and sent to table with a 
 little nutmejf grated over it. - Time, five or six 
 minutes. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 Almond Sauce. — Blanch an ounce of sweet al- 
 monds and four bitter ones, and pound them to 
 a smooth paste with a table-spoonful of orange- 
 flower water. Mix with them three ounces of 
 powdered sugar, and pour over them a quarter 
 of a pint of boiling cream. Stir the whole until 
 it is well mixed. Add the yolks of two eggs, 
 and stir the sauce over a slow fire until it begins 
 to thicken. Whisk it to a froth, and serve. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 Arrowroot Sauce. — Mix a table-spoonful of 
 arrowroot to a smooth paste with two table- 
 spoonfuls of water. Add two table-spoonfuls of 
 loaf sugar and a third of a pint of milk or 
 water. Stir the sauce over the fire until it 
 boils. Flavour with wine, liqueurs, or any 
 kind of flavouring. Time, fifteen minutes. 
 Probable cost, 3d., made with water and 
 flavoured with lemon. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. 
 
 PLUM PUDDING, WITH APPLES. 
 
 Chop four ounces of apples very small; mix 
 with them four ounces of currants cleaned and 
 dried, two ounces of raisins stoned and chopped, 
 four ounces of the crumb of bread finely grated, 
 a heaped table-spoonful of loaf sugar, and half 
 an ounce of candied peel. Stir into the mixture 
 one ounce and a half of clarified butter and 
 four well-beaten eggs. Pour the pudding into, 
 a buttered mould, or tie it in a cloth, and 
 boil until it is done enough. This pudding is 
 better if mixed the day before it is wanted. 
 Time to boil, two hours. Probable cost, 9d. 
 Sufficient for four persons. ' 
 
 PLUM PUDDING, WITHOUT EGGS. 
 
 Shred finely four ounces of beef suet; add a 
 pinch of salt, a table-spoonful of flour, half a 
 pound of finely-grated bread-crumbs, six ounces 
 of currants, picked and dried, two table-spoon- 
 fuls of sugar, half a nutmeg, grated, and a 
 little candied peel. Mix the dry ingredients 
 thoroughly, then stir into the mixture as much, 
 milk as will make a stiff batter. A table-spoon- 
 ful of brandy may be added or not. Tie the 
 pudding in a cloth, plunge it into boiling water, 
 and let it boil quickly until done enough. This 
 pudding may, if liked, be baked instead of being 
 boiled. Time to boil, four hours. Probable 
 cost, 7d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 PLUM PUDDING, WITHOUT SUET. 
 
 Break three eggs into a bowl, and whisk 
 them thoroughly. Mix smoothly with them 
 three ounces of flour, and add three table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar, half a small nutmeg, grated, 
 and, very gradually, half a pint of milk 
 flavoured with lemon-rind. Beat the mixture 
 for some minutes. Put in three ounces of 
 giated bread - crumbs, three ounces of raisins 
 stoned and chopped, thre'e ounces of currants 
 picked and dried, and three ounces of butter 
 broken into small pieces. When the pudding 
 is well mixed, pour it into a buttered mould, tie 
 a cloth over it, plunge it into boiling water, and 
 keep it boiling quickly until done enough. 
 Send brandy sauce to table with it. Time to 
 boil, two and a half hours. Probable cost. Is. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 PLUM SAUCE, FOR PUDDINGS AND SWEET 
 DISHES. 
 
 Wash and stone the plums. Break the stones, 
 and simmer the kernels in as much water as will 
 barely cover them until the liquid is strongly 
 fiavoured with them, then strain it, and put 
 it aside until wanted. Place the fruit in a sauce- 
 pan with as much water only as will keep it 
 from burning. Add a glass of claret, a pinch of 
 powdered cinnamon, and a slice of toasted 
 bread, and simmer all gently together until the 
 plums are quite soft. Press the whole through 
 a coarse sieve, add the liquid from the kernels 
 and as much sugar as will sweeten the sauce. 
 If it is too thick, stir in a little more water 
 before serving. Time, according td the quality 
 of the plums. Sufficient, half a pint of sauce 
 for five or six persons. 
 
 PLUM SAUCE, SIMPLE, FOR SWEET PUDDINGS. 
 
 Wash and stone a pound of ripe red plums,, 
 put them into a saucepan with a quarter of a 
 pound of sugar and a quarter of a pint of water. 
 
PLU 
 
 570 
 
 PLU 
 
 Xet them boil to a pulp, and stir them occa- 
 sionally to prevent their burning. Press them 
 through a coarse sieve, and serve them in a 
 tureen or poured over the pudding. Time to 
 boil the plums, about half an hour. Probable 
 cost, 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 PLUMS, COMPOTE OF. 
 
 Boil half a pint of water with from six to ten 
 ounces of loaf sugar for ten minutes. Put in a 
 pound of plums, and let them simmer until they 
 are tender without being broken. Lift them 
 out, place them on a compote dish, and pour the 
 syrup over them. The amount of sugar used, 
 and the length of time the fruit is boiled, must 
 be regulated by the quality of the plums. 
 
 PLUMS, FRENCH OR DRIED. 
 
 French plums (commonly known as prunes), 
 are made from fresh fruit which has been 
 slowly and carefully deprived of its moisture, 
 by being placed alternately in the sunshine and 
 in an oven. These plums are the object of a 
 considerable trade in different parts of France, 
 particularly in the Touraine and the Agenois. 
 They are exported in large quantities to other 
 countries, and are considered exceedingly whole- 
 some. They may be had all the year round, 
 but they are mostly used for dessert in winter 
 time, when fresh fruit cannot be obtained. They 
 may be bought either loose, in bottles, or in 
 pretty ornamental boxes which are intended to 
 be placed upon the table. Probable cost. Is. to 
 2s. per pound. 
 
 PLUMS, FRENCH, STEWED FOR DESSERT. 
 
 Soak a pound of French plums. Put them 
 into a saucepan- with the water in which they 
 were soaked, and let them simmer gently for 
 an hour. Lift out the fruit, strain the liquid, 
 und make a syrup of, it by boiling with it four 
 ■ounces of loaf sugar. When it is quite clear, 
 put in the plums, the rind and juice of half a 
 , lemon, and a glass of port. Stew gently for an 
 liour and a half. When the preparation is cold, 
 put the plums into a glass dish, pour the syrup 
 over them, and serve. Time, two hours and a 
 Tialf. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. 
 
 PLUMS, FRENCH, STEWED (another way). 
 
 (See Feench Plvms, Stewed.) 
 
 PLUMS IN VINEGAR. 
 
 Take three pounds of mussel plums, sound 
 ■and ripe, and rub them with a soft cloth. Boil 
 a pound of loaf sugar in a pint and a half of 
 vinegar, with a dozen cloves, and a quarter of 
 ■an ounce of stick cinnamon. Put in the plums, 
 a few at a time, and let them simmer gently. 
 As the skins crack, lift them carefully out, and 
 put them on dishes to cool. When they are cold 
 lay them in a deep jarf and shake them -to make 
 them lie closely together. They ought not to 
 "be at all soft. Boil the vinegar and sugar a 
 f«w minutes longer, then pour it out, and when 
 it is cold strain it over the plums, which it 
 ought to cover entirely. Leave the jar in a cool 
 place for a v/eek. At the end of that time 
 strain ofi the syrup and boil it. If the plums 
 are hard, pour the syrup hot over them; if 
 soft, let it get cold first. Cover the jars in i 
 the usual way, and store in a cool place. If 
 
 liked, half a pint of claret may be put with each 
 pint of vinegar. These plums are excellent 
 served with roast mutton. 
 
 PLUMS, MAGNUM BONUM. 
 
 (See Magnum Bonums.) 
 
 PLUMS, MAGNUM BONUM, PRESERVED. 
 
 Magnum bonum and other fine plums may be 
 boiled into a jam in the usual way, or preserved 
 whole like apricots, or as follows. Take fine, 
 ripe, sound Iruit. Pare them, and in order to 
 do this more easily throw them into boiling 
 water for a minute. If they are not fully ripe, 
 they will need to simmer gently for two or 
 
 ^^^"iiw. 
 
 ^ \^^) 
 
 PLTJMS. 
 1, Yellow Magnum Bonum. 
 
 2, Golden Drop. 
 
 3, Greengage, 
 
 three minutes. Take a pound of sugar to each 
 pound of fruit. Dissolve in a little water, skim 
 carefully, and boil until it is almost candy 
 height. Throw in the plums, and let them boil 
 gently for a quarter of an hour. Lift them out 
 carefully, strain the syrup over them, and let 
 them lie for two days. Boil them again until 
 they look quite clear, put them into jars, cover 
 with the syrup, tie the jars up, and store in a 
 cool, dry place. Time, three days. Boil the 
 plums the last time about ten minutes. 
 
 PLUMS, PICKLED LIKE OLIVES. 
 
 Take some hard green plums which have "been 
 gathered before the stones have formed. Boil as 
 much vinegar as will entirely cover them, with 
 a table-spoonful of salt and half an ounce of 
 mustard-seed to each pint of the liquid. Pour 
 it hot over the fruit. Let it stand until the 
 next day, then drain it off, boil again, and 
 repeat the performance. When the plums are 
 quite cold, put them into bottles, cover with 
 vinegar, tie up securely, and store in a cool, 
 dry place. 
 
 PLUMS, PRESERVED DRY. 
 
 Divide them, take out the stones, and put the 
 plums into a syrup made with half the weight of. 
 the fruit in sugar boiled with as much water 
 as will dissolve it. . Keep the plums covered with 
 the syrup, and let them simmer very gently 
 until they arc tender without losing their shape. 
 
PLU 
 
 571 
 
 POI 
 
 Lift the pan off the fire, and let the fruit stand 
 in the ajrrup until the next day. Strain the 
 syrup, boil it up with more sugar, so that tliere 
 ma^ be an equal weight of sugar and fruit, and 
 let it boil almost te candy. Pour it out, and 
 let it get cold. Put it back into the pan with 
 the fruit. Let it simmer gently for a few 
 mirutes until the plums are quite soft. Let 
 them remain in the syrup for three days, drain 
 them, and spread them singly on dishes to dry. 
 Time, five days. Or, put tlie plums whole into 
 a syrup made with their weight in sugar and as 
 much water as will dissolve the sugar. Let them 
 boil gently for about twenty minutes, then let 
 them remain in the syrup until the juice flows 
 freely, and boil them a second time. Lift out 
 the plums carefully, one by one, put them into 
 deep jars, and pour the syrup over them. Leave 
 them until the next day, drain them, and spread 
 them singly on dishes to dry. Or, take plums 
 which are fully grown but not ripe ; prick them, 
 put them into a pan of cold water, and let them 
 remain until it is on the point of boiling. Let 
 them cool, and drain them in a sieve. Take as 
 many pounds of sugar as there are of fruit, and 
 boil it to a strong syrup with as much water as 
 will dissolve it. Put the plums in, and boil 
 them gently for twenty minutes. The next day 
 boil them again until the sugar is ready to 
 candy. Pour the plums into deep jars, and let 
 them stand all night in a cool oven. Let them 
 get cold, then lift them out, and spread them 
 singly on dishes to dry. 
 
 PLUMS, PRESERVED, FOR MAKING PiES. 
 
 Divide the fruit, and take out the stones. 
 Put the plums into a deep jar, place this in a 
 saucepan of boiling water, and let them boil 
 gently until the juice flows freely. Then with 
 each pound of the fruit put an ounce of crushed 
 loaf sugar. When the sugar is dissolved by the 
 hot juice, pour the whole into wide-mouthed 
 glass bottles. Cover the tops closely, and store 
 in a cool place. Plums preserved ' in this way 
 will keep for a short time only. Time, about an 
 hour. 
 
 PLUM TART. 
 
 Line the edge of a, tart-dish with puff-paste 
 or with good short crust. Fill the dish with 
 plums, and sprinkle a little moist sugar over 
 them. The quantity of sugar required will de- 
 pend upon the quality of the plums. Cover the 
 dish with pastry, bake in a moderate oven, and 
 serve the tart hot or cold. The appearance of 
 the tart will be improved if it is glazed. To do 
 this, take it from the oven before it is quite 
 done enough. Brush it over with white of 
 egg which has been whisked to a froth, and 
 cover with finely-sifted sugar. Sprinkle a few 
 drops of water over it, and return it to the 
 oven to set the glaze. Or, before putting it in 
 the oven, brush it quickly with cold water and 
 ■sprinkle white sugar upon it. Probable cost. 
 Is. for a moderate-sized tart. 
 
 PLUM VOL-AU-VENT. 
 
 Boil six ounces of loaf sugar in half a pint of 
 water for ten minutes. Take off the stalks from 
 a pound of plums, wash, and drain the fruit, and 
 then put them into the syrup. Let them boil up 
 once, then draw the saucepan to the side, and 
 
 simmer them very gently for about three 
 minutes, or until they are quite tender without 
 being broken. Lift the plums out carefully, 
 boil the syrup until it is considerably reduced 
 and very thick, strain it, and when cold pour 
 it over the fruit. Plums prepared in this way 
 may be used for large and small vol-au-vents. 
 The fruit should not be put into the pastry until 
 the moment before it is to be served. 
 
 PODOVIES, OR BEEF PATTIES. 
 
 Take half a dozen slices of underdone roast 
 beef, with a small portion of fat, shred it finely, 
 and season it with pepper, salt, and a little 
 chopped onion or shallot. Poll out a quarter 
 of a pound of puff-paste very thin. Lay spoon- 
 fuls of the mince upon it, an inch apart, and 
 moisten the dough round the meat with a little 
 water. Cover with a piece of pastry. Press 
 together the portion round each little ball of 
 mince, and stamp rounds out with a cutter. 
 Pinch the edges, and fry the patties in hot fat 
 until they are brightly coloured. Drain them 
 on blotting-paper, and ssrve piled high on a 
 dish. Time to fry, ten minutes. Suificient, a 
 dozen for two or three persons. 
 
 PODOVIES, OR BEEF PATTIES (analher way). 
 
 Mince very finely two or three slices of under- 
 done cold roast beef. Mix with the meat a 
 third of its bulk in fat, and season with a little 
 pepper and salt, and a finely-minced shallot, 
 and, if the flavour is liked, an anchovy cut into 
 small pieces. Prepare the patties according to 
 the directions given in the preceding recipe, fill 
 them with a tea-spoonful of the mince, and bake 
 in a brisk oven. Serve on a neatly-folded nap- 
 kin. Time, ten to fifteen minutes to bake. 
 Probable cost, 2d. each. Suificient, a dozen for 
 a dish. 
 
 POELE. 
 
 Poele is a kind of rich gravy which is used in 
 expensive cookery to boil various meats in 
 instead of water. It is especially suited for 
 fowls, turkeys, sweetbreads, and similar meats 
 which are in themselves a little insipid. The 
 same poele may be used three or four times, and 
 in favourable weather will keep several days. 
 Por ordinary domestic use it is • a quite un- 
 necessary expense. To make it, proceed as 
 follows. Take a pound of fat bacon and a. 
 pound of lean ham, two pounds of veal, two 
 carrots, and two onions, all cut up into dice. 
 Put them into a stewpan with a pound of fresh 
 butter, and stir constantly until the bacon is 
 half melted. Add a bunch of parsley, a sprig 
 of thyme, two bruised bay-leaves, three or four 
 cloves, half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, and 
 three or four young onions. Pour in three pints 
 of boiling water, cover the saucepan closely, and 
 let its contents simmer gently for an hour and 
 a half or two hours. Strain through a sieve, 
 and press the meat and vegetables well, to draw 
 out their juices. Keep the poele in a cool place 
 until wanted. 
 
 POIVRADE SAUCE (a very good sharp Sauce). 
 
 l)issolve two ounces of butter over a gentle 
 fire, and put with it a small slice of ham cut into 
 dice, a scraped carrot, a turnip, an onion, a 
 shallot, a bay-leaf, a blade of mace, a small 
 sprig of thyme, a stick of celery cut small, and 
 
POI 
 
 572 
 
 POL 
 
 (Twenty peppercorns. Stir these ingredients over 
 the fire till they are nicely browned, then add 
 gradually a wine-glassful of vinegar, u, table- 
 spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a glass of port 
 or sherry, a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar 
 and half a pint of good brown sauce. Simmer 
 gently by the side of the fire, and carefully re- 
 move the scum as it rises. Strain, and serve 
 hot. When thick brown sauce is not at hand, 
 dissolve one ounce of butter in a saucepan, mix 
 an ounce of flour smoothly with it, and stir 
 quickly over a slow fire for three or four 
 minutes, or until it is nicely browned. Moisten 
 gradually with a little broth, or failing this, 
 water, until the sauce is of the consistency of 
 thick cream. Boil it a minute or two, and it is 
 ready for use. The quantity of vinegar used in 
 this recipe may be increased or diminished, ac- 
 cording to taste. Time, half an hour to simmer 
 the sauce. Probable cost. Is. for this quantity. 
 Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 POIVRADE SAUCE (another way). 
 
 Take a slice of lean ham, and cut it into dice. 
 Put them into a stewpan with two ounces of 
 fresh butter, and add a carrot, a turnip, a 
 shallot, and two young onions, all finely sliced, 
 together with a blade of mace and six or eight 
 peppercorns. Stir these over a gentle fire until 
 they are slightly browned, then add very gradu- 
 ally four table-spoonfuls of vinegar, three table- 
 spoonfuls of port, a lump of sugar, and a 
 quarter of a pint of good brown sauce. Simmer 
 all gently together until the sauce is smooth, 
 thick, and nicely flavoured, then strain, and 
 serve immediately. When brown sauce is not at 
 hand it may be easily made by mixing over a 
 gentle fire equal proportions of butter and flour, 
 stirring the mixture constantly until it is 
 slightly browned, and then moistening it with 
 boiling stock or even water. Time to boil the 
 sauce, half an hour. Probable cost, lOd., ex- 
 clusive of the port. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 POIVRADE SAUCE, EASILY MADE. 
 
 Put two ounces of butter into a stewpan, with 
 two onions, a shallot, a carrot, a turnip cut into 
 dice, two cloves, a bay-leaf, and a sprig of 
 thyme. Stir these ingredients constantly over a 
 gentle fire until they are lightly browned, then 
 dredge a dessert-spoonful of flour over them, 
 and add a little pepper and salt, a glass of 
 claret, half a glass of vinegar, and a glass of 
 water. Boil all gently for half an hour. Skim, 
 strain, and serve. Time, ten minutes to fry the 
 vegetables. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 Probable cost, 5d., exclusive of the wine. 
 
 POLENTA. 
 
 Indian cornflour, which is very commonly 
 used in Italy, is sent to various parts from that 
 country, and sold under the name of polenta. 
 In taste it much resembles macaroni, for which 
 it is often used as a substitute. Semolina is 
 frequently and advantageously used for the 
 preparations which go by the name of polenta. 
 
 POLENTA (k I'ltalienne). 
 
 When made with Indian meal, put a quart of 
 milk into a saucepan v/ith a tea-spoonful of salt. 
 Let it boil quickly, then drop into it very 
 gradually as much Indian meal as will make it 
 
 quite thick, stirring briskly all the time. Let it 
 boil until quite smooth, then turn the polenta 
 into a buttered mould, and mix with it an ounce 
 of grated Parmesan. Stir briskly, and bake for 
 a quarter of an hour. The polenta may be 
 turned out or not. When made with semolina, 
 boil a quart of milk with half a tea-spoonful of 
 salt. Drop into it about a quarter of a pound 
 of semolina, stirring briskly all the time, and 
 let it boil gently for ten minutes. Be very 
 careful to prevent it burning. When quite 
 thick, pour into a plain mould, and set it in 
 a cool place to stiffen. Cut it into slices three- 
 quarters of an inch thick. Butter a fresh plain 
 mould. Pour into it a small quantity of clari- 
 fled butter, and then a layer of grated Parmesan. 
 Place on this a layer of slices of paste, and 
 another layer of cheese. Moisten the mixture 
 with a few drops of butter, and repeat until the 
 paste is used, and the dish is almost full. Place 
 a thick layer of the cheese at the top, and a 
 little more clarified butter, then bake the pre- 
 paration in a moderate oven until it is brightly 
 browned. Turn it out on a hot dish, and serve. 
 A little grated cheese is sometimes sent to table 
 on a dish with the polenta, or a little brown 
 gravy is poured round it, but it requires neither. 
 Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, lOd. 
 Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 POLENTA, ITALIAN. 
 
 (See Italian Polenta.) 
 
 POLENTA PUDDING, SWEET. 
 
 Boil the milk and the polenta as in the last 
 recipe. When the mixture is quite smooth and 
 thick, mix with it three table-spoonfuls of moist 
 sugar, four ounces of stoned raisins, an ounce 
 of candied peel, finely shredded, half a nutmeg, 
 grated, and an ounce of butter. When the in- 
 gredients are well mixed, pour the preparation 
 into a buttered mould, and bake in a good oven. 
 Turn the pudding out before serving. Time to 
 bake, one hour and a half. Probable cost. Is. 
 Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 POLENTA PUDDING (to be eaten with meat). 
 
 Boil a pint and a half ot milk, and drop into it 
 very gradually, stirring briskly all the time, 
 half a pound of polenta or maize-flour. Boil, 
 and stir until the mixture is quite thick and 
 smooth, then put in a little pepper and salt, and 
 an ounce of fresh butter. Pour the mixture into 
 a buttered mould, and bake in a good oven. 
 Turn the pudding out before serving. Time to 
 bake, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 8d. 
 Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 POLISH BUCK. 
 
 Take a slice about an inch and a half in thick- 
 ness from a fillet of veal, beat it with a steak- 
 beater or rolling-pin, then with a wooden skewer 
 make holes in it three-quarters' the depth 
 of the slice. Cut some fat bacon into thick 
 strips, and some boneless sardines or anchovies 
 into thin ones. Fill the holes with these, then 
 rub the meat over with some sliced onion and 
 next with a clove of garlic ; sprinkle with half a 
 tea-spoonful of grated lemon-peel, the same 
 of salt, and a little white pepper and cayenne, 
 with the slightest soupgon of ground mint. Eoll 
 the veal up, sausage-shape, tie it with tape, and 
 brush it over with clarified butter, then lay it 
 
POL 
 
 573 
 
 POM 
 
 in. a stewpan with hot butter until it is deli- 
 cately browned. Put in a gill each of veal stock 
 and milk, and cook gently for two to two and 
 a half hours. Then leave till cold, unbind, and 
 serve in slices, as a luncheon or breakfast dish, 
 garnished with salad according to taste. Prob- 
 able cost, 2s. 6d. 
 
 POLISH CUTLETS. 
 
 Take a pound of tender rump steak not more 
 than an inch thick; cut it into neat rounds, 
 and beat these flat with a cutlet-bat. Mince 
 finely two shallots, or a moderate-sized onion, 
 and, if liked, add half a clove of garlic. Put 
 these ingredients into a stewpan with two 
 ounces of butter, half a salt-spoonful of j)epper, 
 and three bruised cloves. When the onions are 
 tender, without being at all browned, lay the 
 cutlets upon them, cover the saucepan closely, 
 and let them steam very gently until they are 
 quite tender. If the gravy dries, add one or two 
 spoonfuls of stock, or even water. When the 
 cutlets are done enough, lift them out, and place 
 them on a hot dish. Skim the gravy. Dredge 
 a little flour into it, and colour with burnt sugar 
 — or, better still, put a nut of brown thickening 
 into it — let it boil two or three minutes, and 
 strain it over the meat. Put a bordering of 
 fried sliced potatoes round the dish, or place 
 n, few mashed potatoes in the centre, and serve 
 very hot. Time to steam, about an hour. 
 Probable cost. Is. lOd. Sufficient for two or 
 three persons. 
 
 POLISH FRITTERS. 
 
 • Take a few lumps of sugar, rasp them on the 
 rind of half a lemon, and then crush them to 
 powder, mix with it a quarter of a nutmeg, 
 grated. Make a batter of four eggs, half a pint 
 of milk, a quarter of a pint of cream, an ounce 
 of oiled butter, and six ounces of warm flour. 
 Take the mixture a spoonful at a time and drop 
 into hot fat, sprinkling currants plentifully . 
 over each just before dropping it in. Dust 
 with icing sugar before serving. Probable cost. 
 Is. 2d. 
 
 POLISH PUDDING. 
 
 Blanch one ounce of sweet almonds and six 
 bitter ones, and pound them in a mortar to a 
 smooth paste, adding a few drops of water to 
 prevent their oiling. Put them into a saucepan 
 with half a pint of new milk, and bring the 
 liquid slowly to the boil. Mix two table-spoon- 
 fuls of arrowroot very smoothly with half a 
 pint of cold milk. Pour the boiling milk upon 
 this, and stir briskly for a minute or two. Add 
 two ounces of fresh butter, and two well-beaten 
 eggs, and stir the mixture again until it is cool. 
 Put it into an oiled mould, and set it upon ice, 
 if possible ; if not, lay it in a cool place until 
 it is wanted. Turn it out before serving, and 
 send hot plates to table with it, and the follow- 
 ing sauce in a tureen. — Beat two ounces of fr'esh 
 butter to a cream. Add two ounces of powdered 
 sugar and two glassfuls of sherry, and mix 
 thoroughly. Put the mixture into a small sauce- 
 pan, and stir gently until it boils. Serve im- 
 mediately. Time, six or eight hours to set the 
 pudding, if it is not put upon ice. Probable 
 cost. Is., exclusive of the sherry. Sufficient for 
 four or five persona. 
 
 POLISH SAUCE, FOR SWEET PUDDINGS. 
 
 ,Put an ounce of butter and a tea-spoonful of 
 moist sugar into a stewpan, and when the sugar 
 is dissolved stir in a tea-spoonful of fine flour. 
 Let it brown, then pour in four table-spoonfuls 
 of claret, add a tea-spoonful of stoned and 
 chopped raisins, a tea-spoonful of picked and 
 washed currants, the eighth of a small nutmeg, 
 grated, an inch of thin lemon-rind, and half a 
 dozen almonds blanched and cut small. Sim- 
 mer the sauce gently, until the currants are soft, 
 and serve. Time to simmer, a quarter of aii 
 hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, 3d. 
 Sufficient for two o'r three persons. 
 
 POLISH TARTLETS. 
 
 If a little piece of puff-paste is left after 
 making vol-au-vents, or tarts, or any other 
 articles of that sort, it may be advantageously 
 used as follows. Roll out the pastry till it is 
 very thin, and cut it into pieces a little more 
 than two inches square. Moisten the surface of 
 these with a little water, and fold over the 
 corners so that they will all meet in the centre. 
 Put a little ball of pastry in the centre of each, 
 and press it lightly down with the finger. Brush 
 the tartlets over with egg, sprinkle a little pow- 
 dered sugar upon them, and bake in a hot oven. 
 Before serving, put a little bright-coloured jam 
 round the little ball of pastry, and serve the 
 tartlets on a neatly-fold/ed napkin. Time to 
 bake,. a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 6d. 
 each. Sufficient, a quarter of a pound of puff 
 pastry for each moderate-sized dish. 
 
 POMEGRANATE. 
 
 This is the fruit of the pomegranate tree 
 (punica granatum), a plant which grows to the 
 height of fifteen or twenty feet. The fruit is a 
 pulpy many-seeded berry, the size of an orange, 
 covered with a thick brown coriaceous rind. Its 
 value depends on the smallness of the seed and 
 
 POMBQBANATE AND FLOWEE. 
 
 the largeness of the pulp. The pulp is of a 
 reddish hue, and has a pleasant sub-acid taste ; 
 it is very refreshing. The singular and beauti- 
 ful appearance of the fruit contributes to the 
 variety of the dessert; pomegranates, being 
 powerfully acid and astringent, are used medicin- 
 ally in fevers and inflammatory disorders. The 
 pomegranate is a native of most parts of the 
 South of Europe and of China. In Languedoc, 
 
POM 
 
 574 
 
 POO 
 
 and some parts of Italy, it is employed as a 
 hedge plant. It was cultivated in England, 
 Loudon informs us, by Gerard, in 1596; but 
 though it grows very well in the open air, it 
 seldom ripens its fruit so as to render it worth 
 anything. The finest pomegranates, called by 
 the Persians badana. or seedless, are imported 
 into India from Cabul and Candahar, where the 
 tree grows to perfection. The fruit brought to 
 this country from the South of Europe and the 
 West Indies is very inferior to that of Persia. 
 
 POMEGRANATE WATER. 
 
 Carefully take out the deep-coloured pips from 
 three ripe pomegranates, and bruise them well 
 with the back of a wooden spoon. Mix with 
 them six ounces of roughly-powdered sugar, the 
 strained juice of a lemon, three-quarters of a 
 pint of water, two or three drops of cochineal, 
 and half a dozen drops of the essence of elder 
 flowers if it is at hand; if not, it may be dis- 
 pensed with. Filter the liquid until it is clear, 
 and it is ready for serving. Time, about twenty 
 minutes to prepare. Probable cost, best pome- 
 granates, 4d. to Is. each. Sufficient for a pint 
 and a quarter of pomegranate water. 
 
 POMEGRANATE WATER ICE. 
 
 Take the ruby pips from two ripe pome- 
 granates, place them on a fine sieve over a 
 basin, and bruise them well with the back of a 
 wooden spoon to draw out the juice. With half 
 a pint of this mix half a pint of strong syrup, 
 the juice of a large fresh lemon, two or three 
 drops of cochineal, a table-spoonful of orange- 
 flower water, and two or three large lumps of 
 sugar which have been rubbed upon the rind of 
 an orange, and crushed to powder ; freeze in the 
 usual way. Time, about twenty minutes to pre- 
 pare. Probable cost, best pomegranates, 4d. to 
 Is. each. Sufficient for a little more than a pint 
 of water ice. 
 
 POMFRET PUDDINGS. 
 
 Rub the rind of a fresh lemon upon two or 
 three lumps of sugar until all the yellow part is 
 taken off. Add a little more sugar to make the 
 weight up to a, quarter of a pound, then crush 
 the sugar to powder. Beat a quarter of a 
 pound of butter to a cream. Add a pinch of 
 salt, two well-whisked eggs, the powdered sugar, 
 and a quarter of a pound of flour, and beat the 
 mixture briskly for two or three minutes. Three- 
 parts fill some small cups with it, and bake in a 
 brisk oven. When the puddings are done 
 enough, turn them out upon a hot dish, aad 
 send wine sauce to table in a tureen. Time to 
 bake, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 
 8d. Sufficient for half a dozen cups. 
 
 POMMES, GATEAU DE. 
 
 (See Gateatj de Pommes.) 
 
 POMONA JELLY. 
 
 Take half a dozen good-sized and rather acid 
 apples — Keswicks will answer excellently for the 
 purpose. Pare, core, and slice them, and as 
 they are done throw them into cold water 
 to keep them from turning yellow. Drain 
 them, and put them into a saucepan with six 
 ounces of loaf sugar and a very small quan- 
 tity of water to keep them from burning, and let 
 them simmer gently until they are quite soft. 
 
 Press them through a coarse sieve, and mix with 
 them half an ounce of isinglass or gelatine which 
 has been dissolved in less than half a pint of 
 water. Rub three large lumps of sugar upon 
 the rind of a fresh lemon till the yellow part is 
 taken off ; add these to the jelly. Stir the jelly 
 over the fire until it is quite hot, put it into a 
 mouJd, and set it in a cool place to stiffen ; turn 
 out before serving. Time to stiffen, twelve 
 hours. Probable cost, lOd. if made with gela- 
 tine. Sufficient for a pint of jelly. 
 
 POMPADOUR PUDDING, RICH. 
 
 Pour a third of a pint of boiling cream upon 
 two ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and 
 let them soak until cool. Beat well with a fork, 
 and mix with them five ounces of finely-shredded 
 beef suet, an ounce of flour, two ounces of 
 macaroons crushed to powder, three ounces of 
 powdered sugar, two ounces of table raisins 
 weighed after the stones are taken out, two 
 ounces of dried cherries, four ounces of candied 
 peel cut into thin slices, the grated rind of half 
 a lemon, half a nutmeg, grated, and a pinch of 
 salt. When these ingredients are well mixed, 
 stir in the yolks of four eggs and a glassful of 
 brandy. Pour the mixture into a buttered 
 mould which it will fill to the brim, cover 
 with oiled paper, and tie securely in a floured 
 cloth. Boil or steam the pudding until it is 
 done enough, let it stand a minute or two 
 before turning it out, dish it carefully, and 
 serve at once. If liked, the pudding can be ad- 
 ditionally flavoured, and will be improved by 
 boiling in the cream before it is poured over 
 tjie crumbs three ounces of blanched sweet 
 almonds and three bitter ones. Before sending 
 the pudding to table, pour over it a sauce 
 prepared as follows. Make two glasses of sherry 
 hot, but do not let it boil. Pour it over a large 
 table-spoonful of powdered and sifted sugar, and 
 when this is dissolved stir into it the well-beaten 
 yolks of two eggs. Whisk the sauce briskly over 
 a gentle fire, and when it begins to thicken and 
 is lightly frothed it is ready. Time to boil the 
 pudding, two hours and a half. Probable cost, 
 2s. 8d., exclusive of the sauce and brandy. Suf- 
 ficient for a pint mould. 
 
 PONTIFF'S SAUCE. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of veal and a 
 quarter of a pound of ham cut into small pieces. 
 Put those into a stewpan with a, quarter of a 
 pound of carrots, a quarter of a pound of pars- 
 nips, a quarter of a pound of celery, and a 
 quarter of a pound of onions, all sliced, and a 
 quarter of an ounce each of lemon-rind, shallots, 
 and coriander-seed. Pour over these ingredients 
 a pint of vinegar and half a pint of ketchup, 
 and simmer all very gently for three or four 
 hours. About te'i minutes before the sauce is 
 taken from the fire put with it half a pint of 
 white wine. Skim and strain the liquid. When 
 it is cold, put the sauce into small bottles. 
 Cork these securely, and store for use. Probable 
 cost, 2s. 6d., exclusive of the wine. A small 
 portion of the pontiff's sauce to be used for 
 flavouring sauces and gravies. 
 
 POOR CURATE'S PUDDING. 
 
 Grease a pie-dish, cut some stalks of rhubarb 
 into small pieces and lay them in the dish ; strew 
 
POO 
 
 575 
 
 POR 
 
 thickly with moist sugar, some thin strips Of 
 lemon-rind and a few drops of the juice. Over 
 this strew a thick layer of bits of broken-up 
 bread and scraps of butter ; continue in the 
 same way until the dish is full, spreading on 
 the top a thick layer of sugar and some bits of 
 butter. Bake for an hour and a half, and then 
 stand in front of the fire to brown. Slices of 
 bread and butter may be used instead of tread 
 scraps if preferred. 
 
 POOR EPICURE'S PUDDING. 
 
 Put two pints of new milk into a saucepan 
 with four inches of stick cinnamon, half a dozen 
 blanched and sliced almonds, the thin rind of a 
 lemon, or any flavouring that may be preferred. 
 Bring it slowly to the boil; strain, and add to 
 the milk a pinch of salt and a little sugar. If 
 Swiss milk is used. sugar will not be required. 
 When the milk is cold, mix with it three well- 
 beaten eggs. Pour the custard into a buttered 
 pie-dish, and lay on the top slices of bread the 
 third of an inch thick. These should be thickly 
 buttered on both sides, should be entirely free 
 from crust, and should cover the milk entirely. 
 Bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, forty 
 minutes. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. 
 
 POOR KNIGHT'S PUDDING. 
 
 Cut two penny rolls int» slices three-quarters 
 of an inch thick. Lay them on a dish, pour over 
 them half a pint of milk, and let them lie until 
 the bread has soaked up all the milk. Make a 
 little custard with three-quarters of a, pint of 
 milk, three eggs, a little sugar, and grated nut- 
 meg. Pour half of this over the slices of roll. 
 Fry in butter until they are brown. Put them 
 on a hot dish, and pour the rest of the custard 
 over them. Send butter and sugar to table with 
 them. Time to fry, about ten minutes. Probable 
 cost, 9d. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 POOR MAN'S SAUCE, FOR COLD MEATS. 
 
 Pick a handful of young parsley-leaves, and 
 chop them small. Put with them a table-spoon- 
 ful of chopped shallots, or a dozen young green 
 onions finely minced, a tea-spoonful of salt, and 
 half a tea-spoonful of pepper. Mix the dry in- 
 gredients thoroughly, put them into a tureen, 
 and pour over them two table-spoonfuls of salad- 
 oil and four of vinegar. Stir all together and 
 serve. If liked, a table-spoonful of pickled French 
 beans or gherkins cut small may be added to the 
 sauce. Time, a few minutes to prepare. Prob- 
 able cost, 4d. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 POOR MAN'S SAUCE (another way). 
 
 Mince an onion finely (or two or three shallots 
 may be used instead). Fry it in a little dripping 
 until it is tender; then pour over it a glass of 
 vinegar and a glass of water or broth, and add a 
 little pepper and salt. Let the sauce simmer 
 gently for a few minutes; and serve. A table- 
 spoonful of mushroom ketchup can be added or 
 not. This sauce may be served with young roast 
 turkey. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for three 
 or four persons. 
 POOR MAN'S SOUP. 
 
 Slice two onions, and cut four ounces of bacon 
 into dice. Fry these in two ounces of good beef 
 dripping until they are lightly browned. Add 
 a large carrot, a turnip, a leek, and three or 
 
 four outer sticks of celery, all cut into thin 
 pieces. Fry for a few minutes longer. Pour in 
 six quarts of water. Let the liquid boil, then 
 throw in a little more than a pint of split peas, 
 which have been soaked for several hours in cold- 
 water. Simmer the soup gently until the jpeas 
 are reduced to a pulp. Press through a sieve. 
 Return the soup to the saucepan, mix with it 
 two table-spoonfuls of salt, one of sugar, one of 
 dried mint, half a table-spoonful of pepper, 
 and half a pound of fiour mixed smoothly with 
 a pint of water. Boil half an hour longer, and 
 serve. If preferred, the mint can be served 
 separately at table, and taken or not according 
 to individual taste. Time, varying with the 
 freshness of the peas, usually about four hours. 
 Sufficient for twelve or fourteen people. Prob- 
 able cost. Id. per quart. 
 
 POOR MAN'S SOUP, DR. KITCHENER'S. 
 
 Wash a quarter of a pound of Scotch barley 
 in two or three waters. Drain it, and put it into 
 a large stewpan with four ounces of sliced onion 
 add five quarts of water. Boil the liquid, skim 
 it, and let it simmer gently for an hour, then 
 pour it out. Put into the pan two ounces of 
 clear beef dripping and two ounces of fat bacon 
 cut into dice. When these are melted, stir in 
 four ounces of oatmeal, and rub these to a 
 smooth paste with the back of a wooden spoon. 
 When well mixed, add the barley liquid very 
 gradually, first by spoonfuls. Stir frequently 
 until it boils. Season with salt, pepper, and a 
 little allspice ; boil a quarter of an hour longer, 
 and serve. If liked, the flavour of this soup can 
 be varied by frying a larger portion of onion 
 or a little carrot and celery with the bacon. 
 Time, two and a half to three hours. Probable 
 cost. Id. per quart. Sufficient for twelve persons. 
 
 POPE, OR RUFFE. 
 
 This is a small fresh-water fish, closely allied toi 
 the perch. It is to be met with in all the' rivers 
 and canals of England, its favourite haunt being 
 slow shady streams. It greatly resembles the 
 perch in flavour, being firm, delicate, and well- 
 tasted, and is excellent broiled in buttered paper. 
 
 POPE'S POSSET. 
 
 Blanch eight ounces of sweet almonds and six 
 or eight bitter ones, and pound them in a mortar 
 with a few- drops of water to prevent them 
 oiling. Put them into a pint of cold water, and 
 bring the liquid slowly to a boil. Strain, and! 
 mix with it a bottle of white wine boiling hot. 
 Add sugar to taste, and serve. Time, about haM 
 an hour to prepare. Sufficient for a quart jug. 
 
 POPOVERS. 
 
 Beat an egg until light, add half a pint of 
 milk and a pinch of salt, and gradually beat this 
 into half a pound of flour. Bake in little tins 
 in a very hot oven for fifteen or twenty minutes. 
 Eat hot for breakfast, split open and buttered^ 
 Probable cost, 4d. 
 
 PORCUPINE PUDDING. 
 
 Wash a quarter of a pound of the best Caro- 
 lina rice in two or three waters. Drain it, and 
 put it into a stewpan with a pint or more of cold 
 milk, a little sugar, the thin rind of half a 
 lemon, or any other flavouring that may be 
 preferred. Boil very gently until the ricfe is quite 
 teider and has absorbed all the milk. The time 
 
POR 
 
 576 
 
 POR 
 
 required will depend in a great measure upon 
 the quality of the rice, but fully an hour should 
 be allowed for it. When it is quite dry, turn it 
 out, heat it well with a spoon to a smooth paste, 
 mix with it three well-beaten eggs, and turn it 
 into a well-oiled mould. Cover it, and steam it 
 by placing it on a plate turned upside down 
 in a saucepan containing about three inches of 
 water. Whilst it is steaming, blanch two 
 ounces of sweet almonds, cut them into strips-, 
 and throw them • into cold water to preserve 
 their colour. Turn the pudding out upon a 
 dish, stick the almonds all over it, and pour 
 round it a pint and a half of nicely-flavoured 
 custard. Time to steam, one hour and a half. 
 Probable cost, 9d., exclusive of the custard. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 PORK. 
 
 Pork, more than any other meat, requires 
 to be chosen with the greatest care. The pig, 
 from its gluttonous habits, is particularly liable 
 to disease, and if it is killed and its flesh 
 eaten when it is in an unhealthy condition, those 
 who partake of it will probably have to pay 
 dearly for their indulgence. It is generally- 
 understood that dairy-fed pork is the best. 
 When it is possible, therefore, it is always 
 safest to obtain pork direct from some farm 
 where it has been fed and killed. When this 
 cannot be done, it should either be purchased 
 from a thoroughly respectable and reliable 
 person or dispensed with altogether. Pork is 
 best in cold weath-jr. It is in season from 
 November to March. It should be avoided 
 during the summer months. The fat should 
 be white and firm, the lean finely grained, and 
 the skin thin and cool. If the skin is thick, the 
 pig is old; if it is clammy, it is stale; if any 
 kernels are to be seen in the fat, the pig was 
 diseased at the time it was killed. Pork should 
 not be allowed to hang more than a day or two 
 before it is cooked, as it will not keep unless it 
 be salted. If cooked quite fresh, however, it 
 -will be hard. The head, heart, kidneys, liver, 
 etc., should be cooked as soon as possible. Care 
 should be taken that pork is thoroughly cooked, 
 as it is most indigestible when underdone. 
 A porker, or pig which is to be cut up for fresh 
 pork, is generally killed when it is from six to 
 nine months old. A bacon pig is allowed to 
 grow older and bigger. The manner of cutting 
 up the pig varies in different parts. A porker 
 is generally divided as follows : — 
 
 6. Leg. 
 
 Head. 
 
 S. 
 
 Spare- 
 
 Roasted. To be 
 
 lOd. to lOJd. 
 
 rib. 
 
 cooked whilst 
 fresh. 
 
 per pound. 
 
 Hand. 
 
 Slightly salted • 
 
 8d. to 9d. 
 
 
 and boiled. 
 
 per pound. 
 
 
 Generally too 
 
 
 
 fat for roasting. 
 
 
 Belly, or 
 
 Slightly salted 
 
 9d. to lOd. 
 
 spring. 
 
 and boiled, or 
 saltedfor bacon. 
 
 per pound. 
 
 Fore 
 
 To be jointed and 
 
 OJd. to lOJd. 
 
 loin. 
 
 roasted. Cut in- 
 to chops, used 
 for curry or for 
 pies. 
 
 per pound. 
 
 Hind 
 
 Ditto, ditto. 
 
 lid. per 
 
 loin. 
 
 
 pound. 
 
 Fry, in- 
 cluding 
 the liver, 
 heart, 
 kidneys, 
 etc. 
 
 Feet. 
 
 Boasted, or salted 
 and boiled. 
 Most econom- 
 ical joint. 
 
 Stuffed like a 
 sucking-pig and 
 roasted. Or 
 cheeks salted 
 and boiled, 
 the rest of the 
 head, with other 
 parts of the 
 animal, i.e. the 
 tongue, feet, 
 and ears, being 
 salted and made 
 into brawn. 
 
 To be cooked as 
 soon as possible. 
 
 Salted, boiled, and 
 served with 
 parsley sauce. 
 
 lOd. to lid. 
 per pound. 
 
 5d. to 6Jd. 
 per pound. , 
 
 5 d . per 
 pound. 
 
 IJd. to 3d. 
 each. 
 
 A bacon pig is cut up differently. The chine is 
 in some parts cut from the centre of the pig the 
 whole length from the tail to the neck. In 
 other parts the meat which is taken from the 
 upper part of the spine, between the shoulders, 
 is called the chine, and the hind loin the griskin. 
 The chine may be salted and boiled, or roasted. 
 It is highly esteemed. The hind 'leg is salted 
 and cured, and called ham; the fore leg is 
 generally left with the side, and salted for bacon. 
 The spare rib is sometimes cut out, oftener it 
 is left with the bacon. Sometimes the meat for 
 bacon is cut off from the shoulder-blade and 
 bones, and the latter, with very little meat on 
 them, are divided into chines, spare-ribs, and 
 griskins. The inner fat is melted down for lard. 
 In pickling pork great care must be taken that 
 every part is basted regularly and turned about 
 in the brine. If any portion is long exposed to 
 the air it may be spoiled. 
 
 PORK (a la Blanquette). 
 
 Make half a pint of bread (or rice) sauce for 
 each pound of meat to be used. Cut the pork 
 into neat slices and trim off all fat; the best 
 part for this dish is the kidney end of a loin that 
 has been stuffed with a mild sage and onion 
 stuffing. Let it heat through in the sauce, and, 
 if there is no stuffing in the meat, season it with 
 sage or thyme and parsley. When hot through, 
 beat in the yolk of a raw egg for half a pint of 
 sauce, with a morsel of made mustard and chut- 
 ney. Serve hot, with a border of potato chips. 
 Probable cost. Is. 3d. to is. 6d. 
 
 PORK {k la Fran^aise). 
 
 Take about four pounds of loin of pork, and 
 let it lie for two days in a marinade composed of 
 a shallot finely minced, a table-spoonful of chop- 
 ped parsley, six peppercorns, a dessert-spoon- 
 ful of salt, and a quarter of a pint of salad oil. 
 Rub the mixture well into every part of the 
 pork, and cover the meat up in an earthen pan. 
 Roast it well, basting it frequently, using during 
 the last half hour the oil in which it was marin- 
 
POR 
 
 577, 
 
 POR 
 
 aded. Serve it on a hot dish with brown gravy 
 round it, and with a sauce made as follows in a 
 tureen. Chop fine an apple and a small onion ; 
 fry them in butter till tender, then crush to 
 pulp, mix a tea-cupful of stock with them, and 
 add a little salt and cayenne, a spoonful of mus- 
 tard, a spoonful of sugar, and the juice of a 
 lemon. Stir over the fire till it boils, add a 
 spoonful of cognac, and serve. 
 
 PORK (k I'ltalienne). 
 
 Roast the pork in the usual way, and serve it 
 with a sauce prepared as follows. Eub a small 
 saucepan with a clove of garlic, melt an ounce 
 of butter in it, and put in two shallots finely 
 minced. Shake over the fire till the shallots 
 are soft, then dredge a dessert-spoonful of flour 
 over them, and add a quarter of a pint of stock, 
 a table-spoonful of vinegar, a tea-spoonful of 
 bruised capers, half a spoonful of mixed mus- 
 tard, six peppercorns, and six drops of anchovy 
 essence. Simmer gently for a quarter of an 
 hour, strain, put a small glass of sheriry into it, 
 and serve. 
 
 PORK (a la mode). 
 
 Large pork, such as portions of the shoulder, 
 loin, or spare-rib of large bacon hogs, may be 
 cooked as follows. Eub the joint with pepper 
 and salt, and put it vito a large saucepan wmch 
 has a closely-fitting lid. Add two or three onions 
 and carrots, with half a dozen sticks of celery, 
 four sage-leaves, a bunch of parsley, a small sprig 
 of marjoram and thyme, and as much stock or 
 water as will cover the whole. Let the liquid 
 boil, skim carefully, then draw it to the side of 
 the fire, and let it simmer gently for three or 
 four hours, according to the size of the joint. 
 When the pork is done enough, lift it out, put 
 the vegetables round it, strain and thicken a 
 portion of the gravy, and pour it boiling hot 
 over the joint. When the pork is removed from 
 the table, trim it neatly, place on a olefin dish, 
 strain and thicken the rest of the gravy, and 
 pour it over the meat. It will be ready for 
 serving when Cold. Time to boil the pork, 
 twenty-two minutes per pound from the time 
 the water boils. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. 
 
 PORK AND APPLE PIE. 
 
 Cut the pork in thin slices, and season these 
 with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Fill a 
 pie-dish with alternate layers of these, and of 
 applies which have been pared, cored, and sliced. 
 Add a little sugar for sweetening, and as much 
 white wine as will moisten the contents of the 
 dish, and place two or three good-sized lumps 
 of butter upon the top. Cover the whole with a 
 good crust, and bake in a hot oven. Time to 
 bake a moderate-sized pie, one hour and a half. 
 
 PORK AND CODFISH, RAGOUT OF. 
 
 Take equal weight/S, say one pound of each, 
 of pork and codfish, either pickled pork with 
 fresh fish, or fresh pork with salt fish. Cut the 
 pork into small slices, and flake the fish, which 
 should be first boiled or steamed. Grease a 
 dish, and sprinkle with pounded cracker biscuits 
 to form a lining. Take a, pint of stock, and 
 make it into a sauce with salt, cayenne, mace, 
 mixed herbs, mustard, and grated lemon-peel. 
 Mix the flaked fish with this, and heat the 
 whole. Fry the pork a little, season with the 
 2l ' 
 
 same materials used for the sauce, adding a 
 little flavoured vinegar to taste. Put these 
 materials in alternate layers in the dish, having 
 fish and sauce top and bottom, and each layer 
 of pork dredged with crumbs. Put plenty of 
 crumbs on the top, with some bits of butter, 
 then brown in a quick oven. Probable cost. 
 Is. 6d. 
 
 PORK AND POTATO SAUSAGES. 
 
 Take a pound of pork, cook it until two-thirds 
 done, then pass it through the mincer. Take 
 three pounds of potatoes that have been cooked 
 in their skins, peel them, and beat them to a 
 paste ; add plenty of salt and pepper, and a little 
 nutmeg and mace. Mix the pork and potatoes 
 well together, and fill sausage-skins with the 
 mixture. Leave them in a cloth for a day, then 
 hang in a current of air for a few hours previous 
 to frying. Probable cost. Is. For richer sausages 
 increase the proportion of pork. 
 
 PORK, BELLY OF. 
 
 The belly of pork is generally either pickled 
 and boiled, or salted and cured for bacon, and it 
 may be dressed as follows. Take the belly of a 
 porker, either fresh or salted, lay it, skin down- 
 wards, flat on the table, and sprinkle over the 
 inside a savoury powder made of two table- 
 spoonfuls of finely-grated bread-crumbs, two 
 table-spoonfuls of powdered sage, a tea-spoonful 
 of salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, and two finely- 
 minced shallots. Roll the meat tightly round, 
 bind it with tape, and either bake it or roast it. . 
 It may be served hot with brown gravy, or 
 allowed to grow cold, and then be pressed. 
 Time to roast or bake, twenty minutes per 
 pound. Probable cost, 9d. to lOd. per pound. 
 
 PORK, BELLY OF, ROLLED AND BOILED. 
 
 Salt a belly of pork; young meat will be the 
 best for the purpose. To do this, mix a salt- 
 spoonful of powdered saltpetre with two table- 
 spoonfuls of common salt, sprinkle the mixture- 
 over the pork, and let it lie for three days. 
 When ready to dress the meat, wash it in cold 
 water, and dry it with a cloth. Lay it, skin 
 downwards, on a table, remove the bones, and 
 cover the inside with pickled gherkins cut into 
 very thin slices. Sprinkle over these a little 
 powdered mace and pepper. Roll the meat 
 tightly, and bind securely with tape. Put 
 it into a saucepan with two onions stuck with, 
 six cloves, three bay-leaves, a bunch of parsley, 
 and a sprig of thyme. Bring the liquid slowly 
 to the boil, skim carefully, draw it to the side, 
 and simmer gently till the meat is done enough.. 
 Put it between two dishes, lay a weight upon it, 
 and leave it until it is quite cold. The bandages: 
 should not be removed until the meat is to be 
 served. Time to simmer, half an hour per- 
 pound. Probable cost, 9d. to lOd. per pound. 
 
 PORK BLACK PUDDINGS. 
 
 When black puddings or blood puddings are- 
 liked at all they are generally liked very much. 
 They are boiled in the intestines of the hog, 
 and these must of course be very carefully pre- 
 pared for them as follows. Empty them, wash ■ 
 and scrape them in several waters, turning them 
 inside out two or three times, and lay them in 
 salt and water all night. The next day rinse 
 them in fresh cold water, and tlley will be ready- 
 
FOR 
 
 578 
 
 FOR 
 
 for use. To make the puddings, throw a little 
 salt into a quart of the warm blood, and stir 
 until it is cold. Mix with it a, quart of whole 
 groats which have been soaked in cold water 
 all night, add the grated crumb of a quartern 
 loaf which has been soaked in two quarts of 
 hot milk until the liquid was absorbed. 
 Mix these ingredients thoroughly. Prepare a 
 seasoning of a tea-Bpoonful of winter savoury 
 mixed with a tea-spoonful of chopped thyme, a 
 tea-spoonful of chopped onion, half a tea-spoon- 
 ful of pennyroyal, two tea-spoonfuls of salt, one 
 of pepper, half a dozen pounded cloves, half a 
 nutmeg, grated, and a quarter of an ounce each 
 of pounded allspice and ginger. Stir this 
 seasoning into the groats, bread-crumbs, and 
 blood, and add three pounds of finely-chopped 
 beef suet and six well-beaten eggs. Cut half a 
 pound of the inward fat of the pig into pieces 
 the size of a large bean. Tie the skins at one 
 end, and turn them inside out. Only half fill - 
 them with the mixture, to allow room for swel- 
 ling, and put in the fat at regular intervals. Tie 
 them in equal lengtlis or rounds, fasten the ends 
 securely, throw them into boiling water, and 
 when they have boiled for five minutes take 
 them out, prick them to let out the air, put 
 them back, and boil gently for half an hour. 
 Take them up, and when they are cold hang 
 them in a cool dry place until wanted. When 
 they are to be used, boil a few minutes in water, 
 and toast in a Dutch oven. Probable cost, 
 4s. 6d. Sufficient for twelve persons. 
 
 PORK BLACK PUDDINGS (another way). 
 
 Prepare the skins. (See the preceding recipe.) 
 Put a little salt into the warm blood, and stir 
 until it is cold. Boil a quart of half grits until 
 tender in as much milk as will cover them all 
 the time. Drain them, and mix with them half 
 a pound of bread-crumbs which have been 
 soaked in about half a pint of hot milk until all 
 of it was absorbed, a pint of cream, and as much 
 blood as will make the pudding a dark colour. 
 Add a pound of finely-shredded suet and a des- 
 sert-spoonful each of chopped sage, thyme, mar- 
 joram, pennyroyal, and onion, with a table- 
 spoonful of parsley, and a seasoning made of 
 two tea-spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, six 
 clcves, and a quarter of an ounce each of 
 pounded nutmeg, ginger, and allspice. Mix all 
 thoroughly with eight well-beaten eggs. Cut 
 two pounds of the inward fat of the pig into 
 pieces the size of a large bean. Half fill the 
 skins, put in the fat at regular intervals, and 
 tie the pudding in equal lengths. Put these 
 into hot water, boil five minutes, then prick 
 and boil them again half an hour. Serve as 
 before directed. Probable cost, 5s. Sufficient 
 for twelve persons. 
 PORK BLACK PUDDINGS (another way). 
 
 (See Black Puddings, etc.) 
 .PORK BLACK PUDDINGS, WITH ONIONS. 
 
 Prepare the skins according to the- directions 
 given in the last recipe but one. Put a table- 
 spoonful of vinegar into a quart of warm blood, 
 and stir until it is cold. Cut four ounces of the 
 inward fat of the pig into dice, and mix with 
 these two tea^spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, a 
 quarter of an ounce each of allspice and ginger, 
 powdered, and six o^gnces of minced onions 
 
 which have been fried until tender in a little 
 dripping or lard. Add the blood, and mix 
 thoroughly. Half fill the skins, tie them in 
 equal lengths, and boil very gently until they 
 are done enough. In order to ascertain when 
 they have reached the proper point, prick them 
 with a large needle. If nothing but fat follows 
 the needle, take them up, lay them on a napkin 
 to cool, and hang them in a cool dry place. 
 When they are wanted, simmer them for ten 
 minutes, cut them into thin slices, and fry them. 
 Time to boil, about twenty-five minutes. Suf- 
 ficient for six or eight persons. 
 PORK BLACK PUDDINGS, WITH RICE. 
 
 Stir a little salt in a pint and a half of warm 
 blood till it is cold. Add the grated crumb of 
 half a quartern loaf, and six ounces of Carolina 
 rice which has been boiled until tender in a 
 quart of milk. Mix thoroughly, add the season- 
 ing mentioned in the preceding recipe, with 
 three ounces of the inward fat of the pig cut into 
 dice, one pound of finely-shredded beef suet, and 
 four well-beaten eggs. Half fill the skins, boil, 
 hang, and serve as before; these puddings are 
 very good when they are lightly broiled instead 
 of being fried. Time to boil, a quarter of an 
 hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for eight 
 or nine persons. 
 
 PORK, BLADEBONE OF. 
 
 The bladebone of pork from a full-grown I 
 bacon-hog, and from which nearly all the meat 
 has been cut, may be taken. It is best broiled 
 over a quick fire until the meat is done through. 
 A minute before it is taken from the fire a little 
 pepper and salt should be sprinkled over it. 
 Serve on a hot dish, with a tea^spoonful of mus- 
 tard mixed with a piece of butter the size of an 
 egg laid upon the meat. Time to broil, ten to 
 fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 8d. to 9d. per 
 pound. 
 
 PORK, BOILED. 
 
 Fresh pork may be boiled like other meat. It 
 should be small and lean or it will be found too 
 rich. Let the water boil, and then put in the 
 meat, with some carrots and turnips, an onion, 
 and a stalk or two of celery; add a morsel of 
 salt, skim as needed, and simmer all the time, 
 adding more salt near the end. A bunch of 
 herbs (see Boitqijet Gabni) will improve the 
 meat considerably. The time must be appor- 
 tioned to the age and thickness of the meat. 
 A leg may take twenty to thirty minutes per 
 pound, while a belly may need only about fifteen 
 minutes per pound. Send to table with a nice 
 sauce, such as celery, onion, or tomato; vege- 
 tables, such as carrots, turnips, or parsnips, or a 
 puree of split peas or peas pudding. 
 
 PORK BRAWN. ■' 
 
 Take a small pig's head with the tongue, and 
 two pig's feet. Clean and wash them, sprinkle 
 two table-spoonfuls of salt over them, and let 
 them drain until the following day. Dry them 
 with a soft cloth, and rub into them a powder 
 made of six ounces of common salt, six ounces 
 of moist sugar, three-quarters of an ounce of 
 saltpetre, and three-quarters of an ounce of 
 black pepper. Dry the powder well, and rub it 
 into every part of the head, tongue, ears, and 
 feet : turn them over and rub them again every 
 
FOR 
 
 579 
 
 FOR 
 
 day for ten days. Wash the pickle from them, 
 cut off the ears, and boil them with the feet in 
 a separate saucepan with as much cold water as 
 will cover them. They will require to be boiled 
 one hour and a half before the head, and after- 
 wards may be put with it. Put the head and 
 tongue into a stewpan, cover with cold water, 
 and let them boil gently until the bones will 
 leave the meat. Take them up, drain them, cut 
 the meat into small pieces, first removing the 
 bones from the head, feet, and ears, and the skin 
 from the tongue ; do this as quickly as possible. 
 Season the mince with a tea-spoonful of white 
 pepper, three salt-spoonfuls of powdered mace, 
 one salt-spoonful of grated nutmeg, and one salt- 
 spoonful of cayenne. Stir all well together, 
 press the meat while still warm into a brawn tin, 
 and lay a heavy weight on the lid. Put it in a 
 cool place until the following day, dip the mould 
 in boiling water, turn the brawn out, and serve 
 on a neatly-folded napkin. Vinegar and mus- 
 tard should be served with pork brawn. Time 
 to boil the head, two hours, less or more, accord- 
 ing to size ; till the flesh leaves the bone. Prob- 
 able cost of head, 5d. to 6Jd. per pound. 
 Sufficient for a good-sized breakfast or luncheon 
 dish. 
 
 PORK, BREAST OF, WITH RICE. 
 
 Wash one pound of best rice, and boil it in a 
 quart of water for five minutes. Drain it, and 
 put it aside. Cut a pound of the breast of pork, 
 fat and lean together, into dice. Fry these in 
 "two ounces of butter till they are lightly 
 browned, then add the rice, three pints of stock 
 or water, and a little pepper and salt if required. 
 Simmer all gently for half an hour, and stir the 
 mixture occasionally to keep the rice from burn- 
 ing at the bottom of the saucepan. Serve all 
 together on a hot dish with a pound of fried 
 sausages laid round it. Time, three-quarters of 
 an hour. Probable cost. Is. 6d., exclusive of the 
 sausages. 
 
 PORK CHEESE. 
 
 Take four pounds of rather underdone cold 
 loast pork, one pound of which should be fat, and 
 the rest lean. Cut it into small neat pieces, and 
 season rather highly with pepper and salt. Chop 
 small six or eight large sage-leaves, and mix 
 with them two table-spoonfuls of minced pars- 
 ley, half a tea-spoonful of powdered thyme, half 
 a tea-spoonful of powdered marjoram, two blades 
 of powdered mace, a tea-spoonfiil of minced 
 lemon-rind, and a quarter of a nutmeg, grated. 
 Put the meat into a mould, sprinkle the savoury 
 powder in with it, and just cover it with strong, 
 nicely-flavoured gravy. Bake in a moderate 
 oven. Let the meat stand till cold, and turn it 
 out before serving. Vinegar and mustard should 
 be eaten with pork cheese. Time to bake, one 
 lour. Probable cost of pork, ,9d. to lid. per 
 pound. Sufficient for a moderate-sized break- 
 Vast dish. I 
 
 PORK CHEESE (k I'ltalienne). 
 
 Take three pounds of fresh pork, one pound 
 and three-quarters fat and one pound and a 
 •quarter lean. Chop it rather coarsely, and mix 
 with it a savoury powder made of three tea- 
 spoonfuls of salt, three salt-spoonfuls of pepper, 
 a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, a salt-spoon- 
 ful of chopped sage, a salt-spoonful of powdered 
 
 thyme, a tea-spoonful of mushroom-powder, and 
 a grated nutmeg. Press the meat into a shallow 
 baking-tin, and bake in a slow oven. Let the 
 cheese get cold, and when serving cut it into 
 slices like brawn. Send vinegar and mustard to 
 table with it. 
 
 PORK, CHINE OF. 
 
 Tlie chine , of pork is that part of the pig 
 which is taken from the spine between the 
 shoulders. It is generally sent to table with 
 turkey, and should be salted for three or four 
 days before it is cooked. There is a good deal 
 more of fat than lean in it. To boil it, put it 
 in plenty of water, let it boil slowly, skim 
 thoroughly, and serve garnished with any kind 
 of greens. It is as often roasted as boiled. 
 When roasted, the skin should be scored before 
 it is put down to the fire. Make a sauce by 
 frying two or three sliced onions in butter until ■ 
 they are lijghtly browned. Pour off the oil, and 
 add a cupful of good gravy with a tea-spoonful 
 of mixed mustard, half a cupful of vinegar, a 
 pinch of salt, and a large lump of sugar. Boil 
 this, and pour into the dish. Time to boil, half 
 an hour to the pound after it reaches boiling- 
 point; to roast, twenty minutes to the pound. 
 Probable cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient, four 
 or five pounds for a mod!erate-sized turkey. 
 
 PORK, CHINE OF (another way). 
 
 Make a savoury powder with a dessert-spoon- 
 ful of finely-chopped sage, half a tea-spoonful of 
 thyme, half a tea-spoonful of parsley, a small 
 tea-spoonful of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of 
 pepper. Score the chine lengthwise, and slip 
 the powder under the skin. Eoast according to 
 the directions given above. If liked, the powder 
 can be omitted, and a sauce, made as follows, 
 sent to table with the chine. Slice two large 
 onions, and fry them in a little good dripping 
 until they are lightly browned without being 
 burnt. Drain them, and put them into a clean 
 saucepan with half a pint of brown sauce, two 
 table-spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, or a tea- 
 spoonful of mushroom-powder, or a dessert- 
 spoonful of mushroom ketchup, two table-spoon- 
 fuls of vinegar, and one tea-spoonful of mixed 
 mustard. Let the sauce boil, and serve. Time 
 to roast, twenty minutes per pound. Probable 
 cost, 9id. to lO^d. per pound. 
 
 PORK, CHINE OF, BOILED. 
 
 Lay the chine in common brine and turn it 
 every day for ten days. Wash it from the 
 pickle, drain it, put it into a saucepan, and cover 
 with cold water. Bring it to the boil, skim the 
 liquid carefully, then draw the saucepan to the 
 side of the fire, and let the pork simmer very 
 gently until done enough. Garnish the dish 
 with small boiled cauliflowers or Brussels 
 sprouts. Time to boil, half an hour to the 
 pound from the time the water boils. Probable 
 cost, 9Jd. to lOJd. per pound. 
 
 PORK, CHINE OF, ROASTED. 
 
 Score the chine lengthwise, brush the skin over 
 with salad oil, and put the meat down to a clear 
 .fire, a considerable distance from it at first, that 
 it may heat gently through before it browns. 
 Baste liberally. Send good brown gravy, apple 
 sauce, tomato sauce, or piquant sauce, to table 
 with it. If liked, a table-spoonful of powdered 
 
FOR 
 
 580 
 
 POR 
 
 sage may be sprinkled over the meat a quarter 
 of an hour before it is taken from the fire. When 
 this is done, care should be taken that the gravy 
 is poured round, and not upon, the meat. Time 
 to roast, twenty minutes to the pound. Prob- 
 able cost, 9id. to lOid. per pound. 
 
 PORK, CHOOSING OF. 
 
 Pinch the lean, and if young it will break. 
 Should the rind be tough, thick, and not easily 
 impressed by the fingers, the meat is old. A thin 
 rind is a desirable feature in all pork. When 
 fresh, the flesh will be smooth and cool; if 
 tainted, it will be clammy. What is known as 
 measly pork is very unwholesome; it may be 
 recognised by its being full of kernels, which in 
 good pork is never the case. Dairy-fed pork is 
 the best. 
 
 PORK CHOPS. 
 
 The best chops are those which are taken from 
 the kidney end of the loin, and a little slice of 
 kidney may be advantageously cut with each 
 chop. In whatever way pork chops are cooked, 
 whether they are fried, broiled, or stewed, care 
 should be taken that they are done through. 
 Every particle of meat should be raised to, and 
 kept for a few minutes at, a temperature at least 
 a trifle above that of boiling water. If 
 thoroughly cooked without being dried up, few 
 viands are more grateful than pork chops for 
 taste in dishing, and for whatever pleasant ad- 
 juncts may be bestowed upon them. These may 
 be considerably varied. Pork chops may be sent 
 to table surrounding njashed potatoes which 
 liave been turned out of a mould after browning 
 in the oven. They may be served on a piiree of 
 sorrel or a layer of spinach; they may encircle 
 a mound of Brussels sprouts, with a suitable 
 sauce poured over the sprouts; they may be 
 served on stewed red cabbage or chopped savoy; 
 or they may be simply dished in a circle, with 
 tomato sauce, thick brown sauce, apple sauce, 
 piquant sauce, cucumber sauce, Robert sauce, 
 proven9ale sauce, or shallot gravy, in a tureen. 
 Probable cost of trimmed chops. Is. per pound. 
 
 PORK CHOPS, BREAD-CRUMBED AND BROILED. 
 
 Trim the chops as in the next recipe, season 
 them pleasantly, and dip them in clarified 
 butter, or brush them over with oil; then egg 
 and bread-crumb them. Broil them over a clear 
 fire; turn them frequently. Serve very hot. 
 Send tomato or piquant sauce to table with 
 them. Time to broil, sixteen to eighteen 
 minutes. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Suf- 
 ficient for one person. 
 
 PORK CHOPS, BROILED. 
 
 Cut the chops rather less than half an inch 
 thick. Have a clear fire ; make the gridiron hot 
 before putting the chops upon it, and let them 
 be at such a distance that they may be done 
 through. Pepper them before putting them 
 down, and two or three minutes before they are 
 done sprinkle a little salt over them, and, if 
 liked, a little finely-chopped sage or tarragon. 
 , Turn them frequently, and serve very hot. 
 Tomato sauce, piquant sauce, Italian sauce, or 
 Robert sauce, may be sent to table with them. 
 Time to broil, sixteen to eighteen minutes. 
 Probable cost. Is. per pound. SufScient, one 
 pound for two persons. 
 
 PORK CHOPS, FRIED. 
 
 Cut two pork chops half an inch in thickness, 
 take off part of the fat, and trim them neatly. 
 Sprinkle them on both sides with a little salt and 
 pepper. Melt an ounce of butter in a saute-pan, 
 put the chops in it, and fry them until they are 
 thoroughly done. If liked, a little powdered 
 sage can be sprinkled over them before serving. 
 Send Robert sauce, apple sauce, or piquant sauce 
 to table in a tureen. Time to fry, twenty 
 minutes — ten minutes on each side. 
 
 PORK CHOPS, SAVOURY. 
 
 Cut the chops half an inch thick from a good 
 loin of pork; trim them neatly, and sprinkle a 
 little salt and pepper over them. Take a slice 
 of fat bacon, cut it and the trimmings from the 
 chops into small pieces, and put them into a 
 stewpan with a table-spoonful of chopped pars- 
 ley, half a spoonful of chopped sage, a finely- 
 minced shallot, a salt-spoonful of salt, and half 
 a salt-spoonful of white pepper. Add the chops, , 
 cover the saucepan closely, and let them stew 
 gently for twenty minutes. Lift them out, put 
 them on a hot dish, and keep them hot. Pour 
 over the herbs two table-spoonfuls of stock or 
 water and a table-spoonful of strained lemon- 
 juice. Let it boil up, strain it, and skim off the 
 fat. Boil again with a glass of port and serve 
 it round the chops. Probable cost. Is. per 
 pound. Sufficient, one pound for two or three 
 persons. 
 PORK COLLOPS. 
 
 Cut a pound of cold roast pork into neat 
 slices. Trim off the fat, season with pepper and - 
 salt, cover up the slices to keep theiii from the 
 dust, and put them aside. Mince finely two 
 large onions and three apples, piit them into a 
 saucepan with two table-spoonfuls of moist 
 sugar, and four of sherry. Let them simmer 
 gently until reduced to pulp, stirring them 
 every now and then to keep them from burn- 
 ing. Beat them until quite smooth. Broil the 
 collops over a clear fire. Pour the sauce into 
 the centre of a hot dish. Put the collops round, 
 and serve. Time to broil the collops, eight 
 minutes ; one hour to simmer the sauce. Prob- 
 able cost, 4d., exclusive of the wine and cold 
 meat. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 PORK CREPINETTES. 
 
 Make some plain potato pastry with mashed 
 potatoes and ffonr, and cut it into little rounds. 
 Cut halt the number of slices of tomato or onion, 
 and half the number of slices of pork. On half 
 the potato rounds put a slice of tomato or 
 onion, season with salt, pepper, and mustard or 
 chutney, then add the meat, and another slice 
 of vegetable seasoned in the same way. Cover 
 with the rest of the potato rounds, and press 
 the edges well together. Then egg and bread- 
 crumb them, and fry in hot fat to a nice brown. 
 Probable cost, 2d. each. 
 
 PORK, CURRIED. 
 
 Take two pounds of pork with a moderate share 
 of fat. Cut it into neat slices, and fry these in 
 a little butter until they are nicely browned; 
 drain them, and put them aside. Put into the 
 butter six onions and one apple finely minced. 
 Move them about until they are quite soft, and 
 work them through a sieve by pressing them 
 
POR 
 
 581 
 
 POR 
 
 •with the back of a wooden spoon. Mix with the 
 pulp a table-spoonful of curry-powder, a table- 
 spoonful of curry-paste, a dessert-spoonful of 
 ground rice, three-quarters of a pint of stock 
 or water, and a little salt. Stir the sauce over 
 the fire till it boils, put in the slices of pork, let 
 these boil up, then draw the saucepan to the 
 side of the fire, and simmer gently until the 
 curry is done enough. Take out the pieces of 
 meat, boil the sauce quickly for two or three 
 minutes, pour it over the curry, and serve. Send 
 a little rice to table on a separate dish. Time 
 to boil the curry, three-quarters of an hour. 
 Probable cost, pork, lOd. per pound. Sufficient 
 for three or four persons. 
 
 PORK CUTLETS. 
 
 Pork cutlets are best taken from the neck or 
 fore loin of small, dairy-fed pork, not very fat. 
 They should be neatly trimmed, the chine bone 
 removed, and the end of the bone bared about 
 an inch. The skin should be scored at regular 
 intervals, and the cutlets flattened with a cutlet- 
 bat, and then broiled or fried according to the 
 directions given in the following recipes. 
 
 PORK CUTLETS AND CELERY SAUCE. 
 
 Trim some cutlets neatly from a loin of pork, 
 and broil them over a clear fire for fifteen 
 minutes until they are brown and thoroughly 
 cooked. Then brush them over with glaze and 
 serve with celery sauce. 
 
 PORK CUTLETS AND ONIONS. 
 
 Trim the cutlets neatly, sprinkle with pep- 
 per, and grill for about five minutes, turning 
 as usual. Then dip them in warmed butter, and 
 coat them with bread-crumbs browned in the 
 oven, with which a pinch of cayenne and of 
 mixed herbs have been mixed. Press these on 
 firmly, then finish the cooking either in a 
 moderate oven, or on the grill, or by frying. 
 'Put a ring of fried bread in the middle of the 
 dish, spread it thickly with fried onions, and fill 
 the centre with apple sauce, mixed with a small 
 quantity of rich brown sauce. Dish the cutlets 
 round the bread, and pour a little more apple 
 sauce round the base. 
 
 PORK CUTLETS AND TOMATO SAUCE. 
 
 Cut and trim some cutlets from a small loin of 
 pork; flatten them to a nice shape, and grill 
 over a clear fire for ten to fifteen minutes. 
 Brush them over with glaze, and serve on a 
 mound of mashed potatoes with thick tomato 
 sauce round the dish. 
 
 PORK CUTLETS, BROILED. 
 
 Prepare the cutlets according to the directions 
 given above ; season with pepper and salt, brush 
 them over with oil, and place them on a hot 
 gridiron over a clear fire. Turn them two or 
 three times that they may be equally browned 
 on both sides, and let them be thoroughly 
 cooked. Put them on a hot dish, and send 
 tomato or piquant sauce, sance Robert, or any 
 other appropriate sauce, to table with them. 
 Pork cutlets may be served with the same ac- 
 companiment as pork chops (see Pobk Chops). 
 The appearance of the cutlets will be improved 
 if they are lightly brushed over with a little 
 ■glaze, but they must be quickly served after they 
 are taken from the fire or they will be spoiled. 
 
 Time to broil, sixteen to eighteen minutes. 
 Probable cost, Is. per pound. Sufficient, one 
 pound for two persons. 
 
 PORK CUTLETS, FRIED. 
 
 Pork cutlets may be fried according to the 
 directions given for pork chops, or as follows. 
 Melt two ounces of butter in a saucepan, and 
 stir into it a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, a 
 tea-spoonful of chopped sage, and a tea-spoonful 
 of finely-minced shallot. Move these ingredients 
 about for a minute, then add a little salt and 
 pepper and two eggs well beaten. Dip the cut- 
 lets first into this mixture, then into finely- 
 grated bread-crumbs, and let them stand ten 
 minutes. Melt a little butter in the frying-pan, 
 fry the cutlets in it, and when done enough, 
 serve with good brown sauce in a tureen. Time 
 to fry, fifteen to eighteen minutes. Probable 
 cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient, one pound for 
 two or three persons, 
 
 PORK CUTLETS, MARINADED. 
 
 Mince an onion finely, and lay it at the bot- 
 tom of a shallow dish, with a bay-leaf, a table- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley, a salt-spoonful of 
 salt, and a salt-spoonful of pepper. Lay thp 
 cutlets upon this mixture, and cover with oil. 
 Let them lie for two hours, turn them, and leave 
 them two hours longer. Fry them in the 
 marinade till they are thoroughly cooked; drain 
 them, place them round a hot dish, pour a little 
 tomato sauce into the centre, and serve. Time 
 to fry, fifteen to eighteen minutes. Probable 
 cost, is. per pound. Sufficient, one pound for 
 two or three persons. 
 
 PORK CUTLETS, SAVOURY. 
 
 Savoury pork cutlets may be dressed according 
 to the directions given for savoury pork chops 
 (see Pork Chops, Savouby), or as follows. Take 
 a ipoderate-sized saucepan with a closely-fitting 
 lid. Melt in this two ounces of fresh butter, 
 and throw into it a table-spoonful each of 
 chopped parsley and sage, a pinch of thyme, 
 three bay-leaves, a blade of mace, and eight all- 
 spice berries. Stir over the fire for a minute, then 
 add a glass of light wine and a pound of properly 
 trimmed pork cutlets. Cover the saucepan 
 closely, and let the contents steam for a quarter 
 of an hour. Take the cutlets up, drain them, 
 and dip them first into beaten egg, and after- 
 wards into flnely-grated bread-crumbs. Fry 
 quickly, and serve them round a hot dish, with 
 the sauce poured into the centre. The sauce 
 may be prepared as follows. Strain the sauce 
 from the cutlets. Skim it, stir a table-spoonful 
 of lemon-juice into it, thicken with a very small 
 portion of flour, and just before sending it to 
 table mix a tea-spoonful of mustard with it. 
 Time, ten minutes to fry the cutlets. 
 Probable cost, cutlets. Is. per pound. Sufficient 
 for two or three persons. 
 
 PORK CUTLETS, WITH SAUCE ROBERT. 
 
 Take two pounds of properly trimmed pork 
 cutlets, and lay them in a deep dish. Put a 
 glass of vinegar, a glass of sherry, a bunch of 
 parsley, a small sprig of thyme, two bay-leaves, 
 three shallots, a blade of mace, eight pepper- 
 corns, and two allspice into a saucepan. Let 
 these ingredients boil up, then turn the mixture 
 into a basin, and when quite cold, pour it over 
 
POR 
 
 582 
 
 POR 
 
 the cutlets. Let them lie in. the mixture twelve 
 hours, turning them two or three times. When 
 wanted, drain and dry them, egg and bread- 
 crumb them, and broil over a clear fire until 
 they are thoroughly cooked. Serve in a hot 
 dish, and pour half a pint of sauce Robert over 
 them. 
 
 PORK, FILLETS OF {k la Perigueux). 
 
 Bone a small neck of pork, trim off all the fat, 
 and lard one side with strips of fat bacon. Place 
 it in a deep pan, on a bed of sliced carrot, onion, 
 and a bouquet garni, season with pepper and 
 salt, and moisten with a glass of sherry and a 
 gill of brown stock. Let it come to the boil, 
 and finish cooking in a moderate oven, basting 
 it well from time to time. When done, take it 
 up, strain the liquor into a small stewpan, 
 add about three-quarters of a pint of Pebigueux 
 Sattce, boil up, and let,it simmer a few minutes. 
 Dish up the neck, cut into fillets about a quarter 
 of an inch thick; pour some of the sauce over, 
 and serve the remainder separately. A mound 
 of mashed potatoes will serve as a base for the 
 fillets, and much improve the appearance of the 
 dish. 
 
 PORK FORCEMEAT. 
 
 _ Take four onions and four apples of medium 
 size, six sage-leaves, a sprig of lemon-thyme, and 
 one of parsley, three or four boiled mashed 
 potatoes, and pepper and salt to taste. Peel 
 and chop the apples, or bake them and use the 
 pulp, which is a better way. Boil the onions 
 with the herbs until done, then strain them, and 
 chop or sieve them ; add the apples, with black 
 pepper and a little salt, and enough mashed 
 potatoes to make a smooth mass. Let it cool 
 before using. This is also suitable for geese, 
 ducks, and mutton. Cost, about 9d. 
 
 PORK, FRESH, STEWED. 
 
 Cut a spare-rib of any fresh lean pork into 
 chops. Fry these in a little fat until they are 
 lightly browned. Take them up, drain them, 
 put them into a clean stewpan, and pour over 
 them as much boiling water as will cover them. 
 Let the liquid boil once more, then draw it to 
 the side, and simmer very gently until the 
 chops are done enough. Thicken the gravy 
 with fiour and butter, season with pepper and 
 salt; boil a few minutes longer, and serve the 
 pork on a hot dish with the gravy poured round 
 it. Time, four minutes to fry the pork; three- 
 quarters of an hour to stew. Probable cost, 
 lOd. per pound. 
 
 PORK, GRISKIN OF. 
 
 A griskin of pork is a loin from a large pig 
 with the bacon cut off, and is unfortunately 
 often sent to table dry and hard. In order to 
 prevent this, put it into a stewpan with as much 
 cold water as will cover it. Bring the water to 
 the boil, take out the meat, remove the skin, 
 and put it down to a clear fire. A short time 
 before it is done enough, strew over it a tea- 
 spoonful of powdered sage mixed with an equal 
 quantity of bread-crumbs, and a little salt and 
 pepper. Baste liberally before the powder is 
 strewn over the meat, but not afterwards. 
 Send some apple sauce and gravy to table with 
 it. If the skin is left on it will require fonger 
 roasting. Time, for a joint weighing seven 
 
 pounds, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 
 lid. per pound. 
 
 PORK, GRISKIN OF (as dressed in the South o< 
 Europe). 
 In Spain and Italy the griskin of pork is 
 allowed to lie in claret flavoured with garlic 
 for five or six days before it is dressed, being 
 hung up to dry at intervals. At the end of that 
 time it is roasted, and served with tomato 
 sauce ; or, sweet herbs being sprinkled over it, it 
 is wrapped in bay-leaves, and stewed gently in 
 the wine in which it was soaked, to which a 
 slight flavouring of Seville orange-juice has been 
 added. It forms a peculiar and piquant dish, 
 much liked by those who have acquired a taste 
 for preparations of the kind. 
 
 PORK, GRISKIN OF, ROASTED. 
 
 The griskin is usually roasted. It should be 
 put down to a clear fire, and basted constantly, 
 and brown gravy and apple sauce should be 
 sent to table with it. If liked, a tea-spoonful 
 of powdered sage may be sprinkled over it a 
 few minutes before it is dished. As this 
 joint is liable to be hard and dry when served, 
 many cooks are accustomed, before roasting it, 
 to put it in a saucepan of cold water, place 
 it on the fire, and bring the liquid to the 
 point of boiling; then dry it well, flour it, 
 and roast it as above described. Time, twenty 
 minutes to the pound. Probable cost, lid. per 
 pound. 
 
 PORK, HAND OF. 
 
 The hand of pork is usually salted and boiled, 
 and may be sent to table with greens and peas 
 pudding in a separate dish. It should have lain 
 in salt about four days. If it has lain longer 
 than that, and is very salt, it is well to let it 
 soak a short time before boiling. It should be 
 put into cold water, skin uppermost, the liquid 
 should be brought slowly to the point of boil- 
 ing, skimmed carefully, and then simmered 
 gently until the pork is done enough. Time, 
 half an hour per pound from the time the water 
 boils. Probable cost, 9d. per pound. 
 
 PORK, HASHED. 
 
 Cut a pound and a half of cold roast pork 
 into neat slices. If any gravy was left from the 
 joint, it may be thickened with a tea-spoonful 
 of brown roux, or with flour and butter 
 flavoured with a little mushroom-ketchup or 
 any other flavouring, and used for the hash. If 
 this is not at hand, put the bones and trim- 
 mings which were cut from the meat into a 
 saucepan with a sliced onion, a clove, a blade 
 of mace, a little salt and pepper, and a pint 
 of water. Stew gently for an hour or more, 
 skim and strain the gravy, and flavour as above.. 
 Put in the slices of pork, and let them heat 
 gently by the side of the fire for about twenty 
 minutes. The gravy must not boil until after 
 the meat is added. Serve on a hot dish, garnish 
 with toasted sippets, and send apple sauce to 
 table in a tureen. The gravy may be made 
 more savoury by ^ntly frying the onion in 
 butter before stewing it, and, if liked, sage 
 and onion sauce may accompany the hash. 
 Time, half an hour after the gravy is made. 
 Probable cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 4d, 
 Sufiicient for three or four persons. 
 
POR 
 
 583 
 
 POR 
 
 PORK KIDNEY, STEWED. 
 
 Pork kidneys may be fried as directed for 
 mutton kidneys, op they may be served as 
 follows. Take off the skin, and cut two kid- 
 neys into slices a quarter of an inch thick. 
 Season with pepper and salt, and sprinkle over 
 them equal parte of parsley and finely-minced 
 shallot. Fry in butter until they are lightly 
 browned, stir a tea-spoonful of flour amongst 
 them, and shake them well "in the pan. Add 
 gradually a wine-glassful of gravy, or even 
 water, and half a wine-glassful of light wine. 
 Bring the sauce to the point of boiling. Take 
 out the kidney. Mix a tea-spoonful of chopped 
 parsley with the sauce, let it boil two minutes 
 longer, pour it over the kidney, and serve very 
 hot. Time altogether, about a quarter of an 
 hour. Probable cost, pork kidneys, 4d. to 8d. 
 each. Sufficient for two persons. 
 
 PORK LARD. 
 
 The inside fat of the pig is melted for lard. 
 To make it, cut the fat into thin slices, and put 
 these into a jar. Place -the jar in a pan of 
 water, and keep this boiling until the fat dis- 
 solves. As it melts, pour it off into small jars 
 or bladders properly prepared, the smaller the 
 better, as the lard will not keep well after it 
 has once been opened. Tie up securely, and 
 store for use. 
 
 PORK, LEG OF, Ad GOOSE (Dr. Kitchener's recipe). 
 Parboil a leg of pork, and take off the skin. 
 Make a stuffing as follows. Mince two ounces 
 of onion very finely; if the strong flavour is 
 objected to, the onions may be previously 
 boiled. Mix with the onions half a chopped 
 apple, four ounces of bread-crumbs, half a 
 dozen chopped sage-leaves, an ounce of butter, 
 and a little pepper and salt. Bind the mixture 
 together with the yolk of an egg. Make a slit 
 in the knuckle, put the stuffing into it, and 
 fasten securely. Put the pork down to a clear 
 fire, and baste liberally. Half an hour before 
 it is taken up, sprinkle over it a savoury pow- 
 der made of two table-spoonfuls of bread- 
 crumbs mixed with one table-spoonful of pow- 
 dered sage, and a little pepper and salt. Do 
 not baste the meat after the powder is put 
 upon it. Serve with good brown gravy and 
 apple sauce. Time, a leg of pork weighing six 
 pounds will require one hour's gentle boiling, 
 and roasting for one hour and a half. Probable 
 cost, lOJd. to Is. per pound. Sufficient for 
 eight or ten persons. 
 
 PORK, LEG OF, BOILED. 
 
 A leg of pork which is to be boiled should be 
 previously salted. When purchasing it, choose 
 a small compact leg not too fat. If already 
 salted, wash it before beginning to cook it. If 
 not, put it into a perfectly clean dry earthen 
 pan, rub it well in every part with common salt, 
 and repeat this operation every day for ten 
 days, turning the meat each time, so that the 
 brine may reach each part equally. When the 
 pork is wanted, saw off the shankbone, wash it 
 well, put the joint in a saucepan, cover with cold 
 water, and bring the liquid slowly to a boil. 
 Skim carefully, and simmer gently until the 
 meat is done enough. If it is allowed to boil 
 quickly the knuckle end will be sufficiently 
 
 cooked before the heat has penetrated to the 
 middle of the thick part of the leg. Carrots, 
 turnips, parsnips, and peas pudding are the 
 usual accompaniments of boiled leg of pork. 
 If liked, the vegetables can be boiled with the 
 meat, but they must not be put in until the 
 water boils. The appearance of the dish will 
 be improved if the skin is scored into small 
 squares or diamonds, and each alternate square 
 taken out. Time, a leg of pork weighing six 
 pounds will require two hours' gentle simmer- 
 ing. Probable cost, lOJd. to Is. per pound. 
 Sufficient for eight or ten persons. 
 
 PORK, LEG OF, BOILED (anotlier way). 
 
 Take a leg of pork, rub it over with salt, and 
 put it, well covered with salt, in a vessel, 
 wherein it must be left for ten days. At the 
 end of that time boil it in soft water, and serve 
 with green cabbage all round, and a peas pud- 
 ding, made as follows. Take a quart of dry 
 peas, wash them, wrap them in a clean towel, 
 and throw them into the same vessel as the 
 pork. When the peas are done, strain them 
 through a sieve, put in a large lump of butter, 
 some salt, and two yolks of eggs, and poach the 
 pudding, wrapped up in a clean towel, to make 
 it of a good substance. Observe that the peas 
 must be put in cold soft water for two hours 
 before being boiled, otherwise they will never 
 boil mellow. 
 
 PORK, LEG OF, FRESH, ROASTED. 
 
 A fresh leg of pork ought not to be kept more 
 than a day or two before being cooked. Score 
 the skin at regular intervals round from the 
 knuckle, or, if preferred, cut it into squares or 
 diamonds, taking great care not to pierce the 
 flesh. Rub the rind over with butter or sweet- 
 oil to keep it from blistering; put it down 
 at some distance from a clear fire, and baste 
 constantly. Brown gravy and apple sauce, 
 tomato sauce, and Eobert sauce are all' suitabl© 
 accompaniments to roast pork. Time, a joint 
 weighing eight pounds will require three hours. 
 Probable cost, lOJd. to Is. per pound. Suf- 
 cient, a moderate-sized leg of pork for eight or 
 ton persons. 
 
 PORK, LEG OF, ROASTED. 
 
 A leg of pork of eight pounds will require 
 about three hours. Score the skin across In 
 narrow strips — some score it in diamonds — 
 about a quarter of an inch apart. Stuff the 
 knuckle with sage and onion minced fine, and 
 a little grated bread, seasoned with pepper, 
 salt, and the yolk of an egg. Do not put the 
 meat too near the fire ; rub a little sweet-oil on 
 the skin with a paste-brush or a goose feather; 
 this makes the crackling crisper and browner 
 than basting it with dripping, and it will be 
 a better colour than all the art of cookery can 
 make it in any other way. And this is the besV 
 way to prevent the skin from blistering, which 
 is principally occasioned by the joint being 
 placed too near the fire. 
 
 PORK, LEG OF, ROAST, TO CARVE. 
 
 In carving either the roast leg or loin of porlp 
 the knife must follow the direction of the lines 
 scored by the cook before the meat was roasted, 
 on the skin which forms the crackling. This 
 skin is too crisp to be conveniently cut through. 
 
FOR 
 
 584 
 
 POR 
 
 It usually happens that the lines scored on the 
 roasted leg of pork are placed too far apart for 
 single cuts. In order therefore to cut thin 
 
 LEG OF POBK. 
 
 slices from the meat, raise up the crackling. 
 The seasoning should be placed under the skin 
 round the shankbone. Often, however, sage 
 and onion are sent to table separate from the 
 joint. 
 
 PORK, LEG OF, STUFFED AND ROASTED. 
 
 Mince finely three large onions which have 
 been previously boiled or not, according to 
 taste; mix with them half a dozen chopped 
 sage-leaves, four ounces of bread-crumbs, an 
 ounce of butter, a little pepper and salt, and 
 half an apple chopped small. Bind the force- 
 meat together with the yolk of an egg. Raise 
 ,the skin round the knuckle of the leg of pork, 
 fasten the stuffing in securely, and brush the 
 rind all over with sweet-oil. Put it down at some 
 distance from a clear fire, and baste liberally. 
 Serve the meat on a hot dish, and send brown 
 gravy and apple sauce to table with it. If any 
 gravy is put into the dish it should be poured 
 round, but not upon, the meat. The flavour of 
 this joint will be improved if it is stuffed the day 
 before it is roasted. Time, a joint weighing 
 eight pounds will require three hours. Probable 
 cost, lOid. to Is. per pound. Sufficient for 
 twelve persons. 
 
 PORK, LOIN OF (k la Franfaise). 
 
 Take a piece of the loin, neck, or spare-rib of 
 pork; score the skin neatly in lines about a 
 quarter of an inch apart, and rub it over with 
 salad-oil. Put it into a deep baking-dish with 
 eighteen or twenty apples, pared, cored, and 
 quartered, as many potatoes peeled and divided, 
 and nine or ten moderate-sized onions. Put 
 the dish in a well-heated oven, and when the 
 meat and vegetables are done enough serve 
 them on a hot dish, the meat being placed in 
 the centre, and the apples, onions, and potatoes 
 arranged round it. Time to bake a joint weigh- 
 ing about four pounds, an hour and a half. 
 Probable cost, 9|d. to lOJd. per pound. Suf- 
 ficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 PORK, LOIN OF, BAKED (German method). 
 
 Score the skin of a fresh loin of pork; 
 epriukle a tea-spoonful of salt over it, and lay 
 it in a baking-dish with half a cupful of stock or 
 water; baste liberally. When the meat is half 
 cooked, sprinkle two table-spoonfuls of caraway- 
 seeds over it. The brown gravy which is in 
 the dish may be served with the meat. The 
 fat must be cleared from it, and it must be 
 strained and seasoned with pepper and salt. 
 
 Time to bake, allow twenty-five minutes for 
 every pound. Probable cost, Q^d. to lOJd. per 
 pound. 
 
 PORK, LOIN OF, MARINADED (a German recipe). 
 Score a fresh loin of pork in the usual way, 
 and rub it well with powdered sage; lay the 
 meat in the salting-pan, and pour over it two 
 pints of tarragon vinegar and two pints of cold 
 water ; add a dessert-spoonful of salt, one ounce 
 and a half of bruised peppercorns, a piece of 
 garlic the size of a pea, twelve young sage- 
 leaves, and a small onion. Turn and rub the 
 pork every day for three days. Take it up, 
 drain it, rub it again with powdered sage, wrap 
 it in an oiled paper, and roast before a clear fire. 
 Baste liberally with the pickle. Serve on a hot 
 dish, and send a sauce prepared as follows to 
 table with the meat. Mix smoothly in a sauce- 
 pan two ounces of butter and a, table-spoonful 
 of fiour; add gradually half a. pint of the 
 pickle with which the pork has been basted, a 
 tea-spoonful of moist sugar, half a tea-spoonful 
 of salt, a pinch of cayenne, and a glass of port. 
 Simmer th^ sauce over a gentle fire until it is 
 of the consistency of cream, and send it to table 
 in a tureen. Time to roast, allow twenty-five 
 minutes per pound. Probable cost, pork, 9id. 
 to lOJd. per pound. 
 
 PORK, LOIN OF, MARINADED AND BAKEO 
 
 (a German recipe). 
 Take the skin from a loin of pork, lay the 
 meat in a deep earthen pan, pour over it half 
 a, pint of vinegar, and put with it two sliced 
 onions, twelve young sage-leaves, a sprig of 
 thyme and sweet basil, a dozen juniper berries, 
 six cloves, twenty bruised peppercorns, and a 
 table-spoonful of salt. Let the pork remain in 
 this marinade five or six days, turning and bast- 
 ing it twice a day. Take it irp, put it with the 
 pickle into a baking-dish, and baste frequently. 
 When it is about half baked, pour half a cupful 
 of boiling water into the dish, strain the gravy, 
 and put it back. When the meat is sufficiently 
 cooked, serve on a hot dish, skim the gravy, and 
 pour it round. Time to bake, twenty-five 
 minutes to the pound. Probable cost, 9Jd. to 
 lOJd. per pound. 
 
 PORK, LOIN OF, ROAST. 
 
 Score the skin of a fresh loin of pork at equal 
 distances — about a quarter of an inch apart. 
 Brush it over with salad-oil, and place the 
 ■j^int before a clear fire, though at a good dis- 
 
 LOIN OP PORK. 
 
 tance from it, for fear the crackling should burn 
 before the meat is sufficiently cooked. Baste 
 liberally, and when done enough serve on a hot 
 dish, and send brown gravy and apple sauce or 
 Robert sauce to table with the meat. If liked. 
 
POR 
 
 583 
 
 POR 
 
 a. little sage and onion stuffing may be served in 
 a separate dish. It is better not to send it to 
 table on the same dish as the meat, as many 
 people object to the flavour. Time, a loin of 
 pork weighing five pounds, about two hours. 
 Probable cost, 9id. to lO^d. per pound. Suf- 
 ficient for six persons. 
 
 PORK, LOIN OF, ROAST, TO CARVE. 
 
 (See Pork, Leg op, Eoast, to Caeve.) 
 
 PORK, LOIN OF, SAVOURY. 
 
 Score the skin of a fresh loin of pork in lines 
 a quarter of an inch apart. Rub it thoroughly 
 in every part with » savoury powder made by 
 mixing together a salt-spoonful of powdered 
 sage, a salt-spoonful of salt, a salt-spoonful of 
 dry mustard, half a salt-spoonful of pepper, and 
 a chopped onion. Wrap the joint entirely in 
 oiled paper, and put it down before a clear 
 fire, though at a distance from it, and baste 
 liberally. Half an hour before the pork is 
 taken down, remove the paper, and baste the 
 joint again until the crackling is nicely 
 browned. Serve on a hot dish, and send brown 
 gravy and apple sauce to table with the meat. 
 Time, twenty-five minutes to the pound. Prob- 
 able cost, 9id. to lOJd. per pound. 
 
 PORK, LOIN OF, SAVOURY (another way). 
 
 Score a small loin of pork as before. Make 
 a savoury mixture of a moderate-sized onion 
 chopped small, a piece of garlic the size of a pea 
 also chopped, a dessert-spoonful of salt, a salt- 
 spoonful of pepper, the sixth part of a nutmeg, 
 grated, a tea-spoonful of shredded parsley, half 
 a tea-spoonful of powdered thyme, and a bay- 
 leaf cut small. Stir this powder into a quarter 
 of a pint of salad-oil, and rub the pork well with 
 the mixture.' Put it into an earthen pan, and 
 let it remain closely covered for two days, turn- 
 ing it every day. Take it up, wrap it in well- 
 oiled paper, and roast as in the preceding 
 recipe. Serve on a hot dish, and send a sauce 
 prepared as follows to table in a tureen. Mince 
 finely a moderate-sized onion and a sharp apple. 
 Put these into a small saucepan with a tea- 
 spoonful of sugar, half a tea-spoonful of mus- 
 tard, half a tea-spoonfal of salt, a pinch of 
 cayenne, and the strained juice of a lemon. 
 Stir them over the fire for a minute or two, then 
 pour over them half a pint of nicely-flavoured 
 stock, and let the sauce simmer gently for 
 twenty minutes. Serve the sauce in a tureen. 
 Time to roast the pork, twenty-five minutes 
 per pound. Probable cost, 9Jd. to lOJd. per 
 pound. 
 
 PORK, LOIN OFr WITH FRIED POTATOES. 
 
 Boast a piece of the loin or spare-rib of pork 
 in the usual way. Baste liberally, and when it 
 is almost done enough, take six or eight 
 large potatoes — kidney potatoes are best for 
 the purpose, as they do not break whilst cook- 
 ing so much as the regents — wash and peel 
 them, dry them well in a napkin, and cut them 
 into slices the eighth of an inch thick. Pour 
 the fat which has dropped from the pork, into a 
 small deep saucepan. When it is quite hot, 
 throw the potatoes into it, and move them 
 about occasionally that they may be equally 
 cooked. Drain them from the fat, and serve 
 the pork on a hot dish, the fried potatoes being 
 
 arranged round it; send brown gravy to table 
 in a tureen. Time, ten minutes to fry the 
 potatoes. Probable cost : pork, 9Jd. to lOJd. 
 per pound. 
 
 PORK, LOIN OF, WITH SAUCE ROBERT. 
 
 Roast a loin of pork in the usual way, baste 
 liberally, and when done enough serve on a hot 
 dish with a sauce prepared as follows poured 
 round it. Cut four good-sized onions into small 
 pieces, fry them in two ounces of butter until 
 they are lightly browned. Sprinkle an ounce 
 of flour over them, and stir them about with a 
 wooden spoon over a gentle fire for two minutes. 
 Add a little salt and pepper, a pint of stock, 
 and a tea-spoonful of Bovril, and let the sauce 
 simmer gently for a quarter of an hour, stirring 
 it all the time. Pour it on a hot dish, lay the 
 joint upon it, and serve immediately. Send 
 apple sauce to table in a tureen. A little made 
 mustard may be added to the sauce, if liked, 
 lioin of pork, when served with this sauce, is 
 sometimes stewed instead of being roasted. To 
 do this, put the joint with a small portion of 
 clarified butter into a stewpan just large enough 
 to hold it. Let it brown brightly on both sides, 
 then pour over it as much stock as will cover 
 it, and add a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion 
 stuck with two cloves, a little salt and pepper, 
 and a glass of light wine; let it simmer gently 
 for two hours, and baste two or three times at 
 intervals during the cooking. Serve the pork on 
 a hot dish with the sauce poured round it. 
 Time to roast a loin weighing about four 
 pounds, one hour and a quarter. Probable cost, 
 9id. to lO^d. per pound. Sufiicient for five or 
 six persons. 
 
 PORK, MEAT CAKE OF, 
 
 Mince separately one pound of lean pork and 
 three-quarters of a pound of fat bacon. Mix 
 them, and season the mixture rather highly 
 with salt, jjepper, cayenne, and chopped sage. 
 Bind the ingredients together with the yolk of 
 an egg. Form a round cake about an inch 
 thick; dissolve a small portion of butter in a 
 stewpan. Put in the cake, let it brown on one 
 side, then turn it, and let it brown equally on 
 the other. Put it on a hot dish, dredge a little 
 flour into the butter, mix it to a smooth paste, 
 thin it with a little stock, season with pepper 
 and salt, and boil until it is of the consistency 
 of cream ; put in the cake, let it heat through, 
 and serve with the sauce in the dish. If the 
 flavour is liked, a little flnely-minced onion may 
 be added both to the cake and the sauce. Time 
 to fry, from twelve to fifteen minutes. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient for three 
 persons. 
 PORK, MEAT CAKE OF, COLD. 
 
 Cut the meat, fat and lean, from a cold joint 
 of roast pork, and mince it very finely; mix 
 with it a couple of large potatoes freshly 
 boiled and mashed, a little salt and pepper, 
 a chopped onion, and a pinch of powdered 
 sage. Add two or three eggs and a little 
 milk, sufficient to make a very thick batter. 
 Fry the cake like an omelet, or bake in a 
 buttered dish. Serve with pickled onions or 
 gherkins. Time to fry, until nicely browned. 
 Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold 
 pork. 
 
POR 
 
 586 
 
 POR 
 
 PORK, MINCED. 
 
 Take a pound of cold roast pork, free from 
 fat or skin, and season it with a little pepper, 
 salt, and dry mustard. Pare, core, and mmce 
 finely four large apples, and put them into a 
 saucepan with two ounces of fresh butter and 
 three chopped onions of a moderate size. Stir 
 these ingredients over the fire until tender. 
 Pour over them three table-spoonfuls of nicely- 
 flavoured stock, or, if any is at hand, of the 
 gravy that was served with the roast pork. 
 Add a table-spoonful of vinegar, and a piece of 
 brown thickening the size of a small nut, or, if 
 this is not to be had, a tea-spoonful of flour 
 mixed smoothly with a dessert-spoonful of cold 
 stock. Let the sauce boil five or six minutes. 
 Stir into it the minced pork, and when this is 
 quite hot, add the juice of a small lemon, and 
 serve immediately. If the flavour is liked, a 
 piece of garlic the size of a jiea may be sim- 
 mered with the sauce. Garnish the dish with 
 toasted sippets. Time, half an hour. Probable 
 cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient 
 for two or three persons. 
 
 PORK, MINCED AS COLLOP8 (a German recipe). 
 Mince one pound of cold lean pork and two 
 ounces of fat pork very finely. Mix with it four 
 ounces of grated bread-crumbs, and a little 
 pepper and salt, and bind the mixture together 
 with two well-beaten eggs. Form the mince 
 into balls, flatten these on the top, brush them 
 over with egg, dip them in bread-crumbs, and 
 fry them in hot fat till they are lightly browned. 
 Serve with good brown gravy. If liked, the 
 coUops instead of being fried may be stewed 
 in a gravy prepared as follows. Put the bones 
 and trimmings of the pork into a stewpan with 
 as much stock as will cover them. Season the 
 gravy with pepper and salt, and simmer it 
 gently for half an hour. Strain it, place it 
 again in the saucepan, and put in the coUops. 
 Let them stew for a quarter of an hour. 
 Lift them out carefully, and keep them hot. 
 Thicken the gravy with brown thickening, and 
 add a table-spoonful of chopped capers or a 
 couple of finely-minced shallots to the sauce. 
 Send cauliflower or delicately-fried potatoes to 
 table with the coUops. Probable cost, 6d., ex- 
 clusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for three or 
 four persons. 
 
 PORK, NECK OF, ROLLED AND ROASTED. 
 
 Take the neck or spring of fresh youngs pork. 
 Have the bones removed, and spread evenly 
 over the inside a forcemeat made of three 
 table-spoonfuls of finely-grated bread-crumbs, 
 two table-spoonfuls of chopped sage, a little 
 pepper and salt, and a beaten egg. Roll and 
 bind the meat tightly in a nice shape. Put it 
 ■ to roast before a clear fire, though at a good 
 distance from it, and baste liberally. Send 
 good brown gravy to table with the pork. If 
 liked, the forcemeat may be omitted, and 
 Tomato Sauce, Poivbade Satjce, or Soubise 
 Sauce may accompany the meat. Time to roast 
 the pork, twenty-five minutes per pound. Prob- 
 able cost, 9id. per pound. 
 
 PORK PANCAKES. 
 
 Beat thoroughly the yolks of two fresh eggs. 
 Stir in two table-spoonfuls of flour, and beat 
 
 to a smooth paste. Add a pinch of salt and the 
 third of a pint of milk, and let the batter stand 
 for an hour or two. Cut the remains of cold 
 roast or boiled pork into thin slices, and cover 
 these to keep them moist and free from dust. 
 When the pancakes are to be fried, whisk the 
 whites of the eggs to a firm froth, and add them 
 to the batter. Dip the slices of pork into this, 
 and fry them separately in hot fat for a minute. 
 Surround each slice with a spoonful of batter, 
 fry it again until set, and when it is done on 
 one side turn it over to the other. Serve the 
 pancakes on a hot dish, and send good brown 
 sauce made from the trimmings of the pork to 
 table with them. If liked, the pancakes can be 
 made with fresh meat, but in this case it will be 
 necessary to fry the slices of pork before they 
 are dipped into the batter. Three or four pan- 
 cakes may be fried at once in an ordinary 
 omelet pan. Time to fry the pancakes, four 
 minutes each. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of 
 the cold meat. Sufficient, allow two or three 
 for each person. 
 
 PORK, PICKLE FOR. 
 
 The same pickle if it is boiled up occasionally 
 may be used again and again for pork. The 
 following are excellent recipes. Boil half a 
 pound of common salt, a quarter of a pound 
 of salt prunelle, a quarter of a pound of salt- 
 petre, one and a half pounds of loaf sugar, and 
 two pounds of bay salt, in two gallons of water 
 for half an hour. Skim the liquor well, and 
 when cold put it into the tub. Or boil six 
 pounds of common salt, a quarter of a pound of 
 saltpetre, and one and a, half pounds of moist 
 sugar, in two gallons of water, as above. 
 When the meat is put into either of these 
 pickles, place a weight upon it to keep it covered 
 with the brine. Pickle should be thrown away 
 after a pig's head has been laid in it. 
 
 PORK, PICKLE FOR (another way). 
 (See Pickle roB Beef, Pobk, and Tongues.) 
 
 PORK, PICKLED. 
 
 As pork will not keep unless it is salted, it 
 should be cut up as soon as it is cold, and in 
 such pieces as will lie quite flat in the pan. 
 Strew a layer of salt and a slighter one of sugar 
 at the bottom of the salting-pan. Bub the sides 
 of the pork over with sugar and salt, lay the 
 pieces skin downwards in the pan, and between 
 each layer of meat put one of sugar and salt. 
 When the pan is full, cover the whole with a 
 layer of salt sufficiently thick to exclude the 
 air. Lay a cloth over the pan, and put a board 
 with a weight upon it over the cloth to keep 
 the meat in the brine. Leave it for a week or 
 ten days. If at the end of that time the salt 
 has not dissolved into a brine, sprinkle a little 
 warm water over the top layer of salt. It is 
 better, however, to avoid doing this if possible : 
 it should only be found necessary in very dry 
 weather. Pork pickled in this way will be 
 ready for use in thrge or four months, and will 
 be found excellent. If guarded from the air, it 
 will keep good for two years. Although salt- 
 petre is more commonly used than sugar in. 
 pickling meat, the latter imparts the finer 
 flavour, though there is no reason why both 
 should not be used for pork as well as beef. 
 
POR 
 
 587 
 
 POR 
 
 PORK, PICKLED (American method). 
 
 Dissolve an ounce of saltpetre and half 
 an ounce of carbonate of potash in a 
 small quantity of "boiling 'water. Put this 
 into - a, large saucepan containing three 
 gallons of water, and add two ana a half 
 pound of common salt, two pounds of bay 
 salt, and one pound of moist sugar. Boil the 
 liquid, and skim well until it is quite clear, 
 then pour it into the pickling-pan, and when it 
 is cold it is ready for use. Pork which is to be 
 boiled should be put into this pickle, and kept 
 under the brine, by means of a board and a 
 weight laid upon it, until it is wanted. The 
 time required for pickling will of course depend 
 upon the size of the meat and the taste of those 
 who are to eat it. Usually it will be found that 
 two days is sufficient for the streaky parts, four 
 days for the hand and spring, and five or six 
 days for a moderate-sized Teg. The pickle 
 may be used again and again if boiled occa- 
 sionally. 
 
 PORK, PICKLED (an easy way). 
 
 When pork is to be cooked in a short time, 
 it may be pickled in the following easy way. 
 Take the pig as soon as it is cold, cut it into 
 convenient-sized pieces, and rub them well with 
 common salt. Lay them in the salting-pan, and 
 turn and rub them every day till they are re- 
 quired for use. Remember always to wash the 
 hands in cold water the last thing before touch- 
 ing the meat. The time required for the pork to 
 lie in salt depends upon taste. If it is wished 
 that it should be only moderately salted, the 
 hand and belly may remain in the pan four days, 
 and a leg weighing six pounds five or six days. 
 
 PORK, PICKLED (another way). 
 
 Every part of the pig which is thin and 
 streaky may be converted into pickled pork, 
 but the fillet and breasts are the portions best 
 suited for this purpose. Cut the meat into 
 pieces, and put these on a layer of crushed salt 
 at the bottom of an earthen pan, packing 
 them as closely as possible. Cover with a mix- 
 ture of fifteen parts of salt and one of saltpetre. 
 Iiay on the top a cloth folded in four, and above 
 the cloth a lound board bearing several heavy 
 stones. If the pork is wanted for immediate 
 use, remove it at the end of five or six days ; 
 but if it is wished to preserve it for a consider- 
 able time, let it remain longer in salt. 
 
 PORK, PICKLED, BOILED. 
 
 If the pork be very salt, let it soak for an hour 
 before it is cooked. Put it into a saucepan, 
 cover with cold water, and bring it slowly to 
 the boil. Skim the liquid carefully, draw the 
 pan to the side, and let the meat simmer very 
 gently until it is done enough. If boiled 
 quickly it will not be good. Pickled pork is 
 generally served as an accompaniment to fowls 
 or other white meats. If underdone, pickled 
 pork is very indigestible. Thick pieces will re- 
 quire longer boiling than thin ones : as a 
 general rule, half an hour per pound from the 
 time the water boils will be sufficient. 
 
 PORK PIES. 
 
 Pork pies are generally made of the trim- 
 mings taken from a ho^ when it is cut up. 
 Make and shape the pies according to the 
 
 directions given in the following recipe, and re- 
 member that the pies must be moulded while the 
 paste is warm, and that they are much more 
 easily made with a mould than without one. 
 As a mould is not always at hand, those who 
 are not particularly experienced in the work 
 (and it requires skill) may mould the pie round a 
 jelly-pot or bottle, which" has been made warm 
 by being immersed for some time in warm water. 
 Cut the meat into pieces the size of a small nut, 
 and keep the lean and fat separate. Season the 
 whole with pepper and salt, half a dozen young 
 sage-leaves finely shredded; or a tea-spoonful 
 of dried and powdered sage, one ounce of salt, 
 two and a quarter ounces of pepper, and a pinch 
 of cayenne, may be allowed for a pie containing 
 three pounds of meat. Pack the fat and lean 
 closely into the pie in alternate layers until it 
 is filled. Put on the cover, press and pinch the 
 edges, and ornament according to taste. Brush 
 ov«r with well-beaten egg, and bake in a slow 
 oven, as the meat is solid and requires to be 
 cooked through. Neither water nor bone should 
 be put into pork pies, and the outside pieces 
 will be hard unless they are cut small and 
 pressed closely together. The bones and trim- 
 mings of the pork may be stewed to make 
 gravy, which should be boiled until it will jelly 
 when cold, and when this has been nicely 
 flavoured, a little may be poured into the pie 
 after it is baked, through an opening made in 
 the top. When pjes are made small they re- 
 quire a quicker oven than large ones. Time to 
 bake, about two hours for a pie containing three 
 pounds. Probable cost, 3s. {See also Raised 
 Pies.) 
 PORK PIES, PASTRY FOR. 
 
 Put a quarter of a pound of finely-shredded 
 beef suet — or five ounces of lard, or a quarter 
 of a pound of mutton suet — and an ounce of 
 fresh butter into a saucepan with half a pint 
 of boiling water and a pinch of salt. Stir the 
 mixture until the fat is dissolved, and pour it 
 boiling hot into a pound and a half of flour. 
 Kneadwell to a stiff paste, and add a little more 
 warm water if required. Shape the dough, and 
 get it into the oven while it is warm. If the pie 
 is to be baked in a mould, lay a piece of the 
 proper shape at the bottom. Press long pieces 
 into the sides, and fasten these to the top and 
 the bottom with white of egg. If a mould is not 
 to be used, cut off' as much pastry as will make 
 the cover, and wrap it in a cloth to keep it 
 warm. Mould the rest with both hands into the 
 shape of a cone, and make the sides smooth and 
 firm. Press the top down with the knuckles of 
 the right hand, and with the left press the out- 
 side closely to kee.p it firm and smooth. Be 
 careful that the walls are equally thick in every 
 part. Pill the pie, put on the cover, pinch the 
 edges, fasten securely with white of egg, orna- 
 ment the outside in any way that may suit the 
 fancy, brush over with yolk of egg, and bake 
 in a slow oven if the pie be large, in a quicker 
 one if it be small. 
 
 PORK PUDDING. 
 
 Line a well-buttered basin with good suet 
 crust. Pill it with alternate layers of pork cut 
 into neat slices and pork sausage-meat, and 
 allow double the weight of pork to that of 
 
POR 
 
 588 
 
 POR 
 
 sausage-meat. Put a little pepper and salt, a 
 chopped onion, and half a dozen sage-leaves, 
 finely shredded, with the meat, and add two or 
 three spoonfuls of gravy made from the trim- 
 mings. Put on the cover, fasten the edges 
 securely, tie the pudding in a floured cloth, 
 plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling 
 until it is done enough; then turn it out care- 
 fully, and serve on a hot dish. Time to boil 
 a moderate-sized pudding, about three hours. 
 Probable cost, pork and pork sausage, lOd. per 
 pound. 
 
 PORK PUDDING (a Dutch recipe). 
 
 Put half a pound of finely-grated bread- 
 crumbs into a bowl. Pour over these three- 
 quarters of a pint of milk which has been 
 mixed with two well-beaten eggs, and let 
 them soak for an hour. Stir in with them two 
 pounds of lean pork finely minced and seasoned 
 with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Pour 
 the mixture into a buttered dish, and bake in 
 a moderate oven. Add a little more butter to 
 the sides of the dish, if required. Time to bake, 
 two hours. Probable cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient 
 for six or seven persons. 
 
 PORK, RECHAUFFE OF. 
 
 Cut the crackling and most of the fat off the 
 remains of a loin of pork, then cover the joint 
 over with a mixture composed of minced herbs, 
 bread-crumbs, salt and pepper, finely-chopped 
 onions, and apples. Blend "these together with 
 two beaten eggs, press over the meat firmly, and 
 bake in a brisk oven for twenty minutes. Serve 
 with tomato sauce. 
 
 PORK, ROAST, APPLE SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Peel some apples, cut them into quarters, and 
 put them into a stewpan with a little brown 
 sugar and water. Stir well with a wooden 
 spoon, add a little butter, and when done 
 enough send the sauce to table. The apples 
 must not be too much stewed, or they will lose 
 their acidity and also become too brown. 
 
 PORK, ROLLED. 
 
 Bone a leg of pork; have ready a forcemeat 
 of chopped sage, bread-crumbs, allspice, salt, 
 and pepper; put this stuffing within th^ meat, 
 and roll it up tight. Boast gently, keep- 
 ing the meat at first some distance from the 
 fire; froth it with butter and flour a few 
 minutes before serving. • 
 
 PORK, SADDLE OF, ROASTED. 
 
 Have a saddle of pork cut in the same way 
 as a saddle of mutton. As pork is not often cut 
 up in this way, it will be necessary to order it 
 beforehand. Take off the skin, trim the joint 
 neatly, and cover the fat with buttered paper. 
 Put it down to a clear fire, and baste liberally. 
 Half an hour before it is taken up, remove the 
 paper, dredge the meat lightly with flour, and 
 baste until it is brightly browned. Send brown 
 gravy and apple sauce, tomato sauce, or poiv- 
 rade sauce (see recipes for these) to table with it. 
 If liked, the skin can be left on, and it will then 
 require to be scored lengthwise, the same way in 
 which the saddle is carved. This is the hand- 
 somest joint of pork that can be served. Time, 
 without the skin, twenty minutes per pound. 
 Probable cost. Is. per pound. 
 
 PORK, SALTED, FOR LARDING. 
 
 In salting pork it is well to put aside a piece 
 to be used exclusively for,larding, and for thiiH 
 to omit saltpetre altogether, anf merely rub it 
 well with salt, put a weight upon it, and leave 
 it for five or six weeks, until it is ready for 
 smoking. If saltpetre is rubbed into bacon 
 which is to be used for larding, there will be 
 danger that the lardoons will impart a pink 
 tinge to the white meats that come in contact 
 with them. 
 
 PORK SAUSAGES. 
 
 First prepare the skins. To do this, empty ' 
 the hog's intestines, cut them into lengths, and 
 lay them in salt and water for three or four 
 days. Turn them inside out once or twice 
 during that time. Eiuse and scrape them, and 
 they are ready for use. To make the sausages : 
 Mince finely a pound of lean pork free from skin 
 and gristle. Add one pound of finely-shredded 
 beef suet, two large table-spoonfuls of grated 
 bread, a plentiful allowance of pepper, salt, and 
 finely-chopped sage, and a pinch of powdered 
 allspice and powdered cloves. Fill the skins, 
 and leave plenty of room to tie the ends. Or 
 mince finely a pound and a quarter of fat pork 
 and a pound and a quarter of lean pork. Add 
 three ounces of white pepper, one ounce of salt, 
 a dessert-spoonful of powdered sage, a pinch of 
 powdered mace and a pinch of cloves. Or 
 mince finely two pounds of lean pork and a 
 pound and a half of the inward fat of the pig. 
 Add the crumb of a penny roll which has. been 
 soaked in cold water and pressed quite dry, and 
 a seasoning of pepper, salt, powdered sage, 
 grated nutmeg, and lemon thyme. Mix these 
 ingredients thoroughly. Or mince finely one 
 pound of pork, fat and lean together. Add one 
 pound of finely-shredded beef suet, one pound of 
 lean veal, half a pound of finely-grated bread- 
 crumbs, a small nutmeg, grated, six or seven 
 young sage-leaves cut small, or a tea-spoonful 
 of dried and powdered sage, two tea-spoonfuls 
 of salt, a tearspoonful of pepper, a pinch of 
 powdered savory, a pinch of powdered mar- 
 joram, and the rind of half a small lemon cut 
 small. Mix thoroughly, and put the meat into 
 skins. Or mince finely six pounds of pork, fat 
 and lean together; add half a tea-spoonful of 
 pounded sage, half a tea-spoonful of powdered 
 thyme, a tea-spoonful of ground allspice, an 
 ounce of salt, and half an ounce of white pepper. 
 In making sausage-meat it must be remembered 
 that it is most important to keep out all pieces 
 of bone, sinew, and skin. If a larger quantity 
 of the meat has been mixed than is required for 
 immediate use, what is left may be packed 
 closely in a perfectly dry jar, tied tightly with ' 
 bladder, and kept in a cold place till wanted. 
 Probable cost, pork, 9d. or lOd. per pound. 
 
 PORK SAUSAGES, COOKED. 
 
 Pork sausages may be either baked, broiled, 
 boiled, or fried. The usual way of cooking is to 
 fry them : the best way is to bake them. To 
 fry them : Put the sausages into a frying-pan 
 over a clear fire with a little piece of butter iil 
 the pan to keep them from burning. Eoll and 
 turn them about that they may be equally 
 cooked. The time required will depend upon 
 the size of the sausages. If large, they will 
 
POR 
 
 589 
 
 POR 
 
 need twenty minutes; if small, ten or fifteen 
 minutes will be enough. To bake sausages : 
 Put them in a tin in a single layer, and place 
 them in a moderate oven. Turn them over 
 when they are half done, that they may be 
 equally browned all over. The advantage ,of 
 cooking sausages in this way is that they get 
 cooked through, and are consequently much 
 more wholesome. Time, one hour to one hour 
 and a half. To broil sausages : Prick small 
 sausages on both sides to keep them from burst- 
 ing, and broil them till they are done enough. 
 Serve on a hot dish. They will require from 
 eight to twelve minutes. To boil sausages : 
 Plunge them into boiling water, let them boil 
 up, draw the saucepan to the side, and simmer 
 gently for half an hour. Pork sausages, should 
 be served very hot, either on fresh toast or 
 a mound of mashed potatoes. Brown sauce, 
 apple sauce, or tomato sauce, may be sent to 
 table with them. Probable cost. Is. per pound. 
 
 PORK SAUSAGES, FOR EATING COLD. 
 
 ' Put two pounds of pork, fat and lean together, 
 and two pounds of lean beef into a pickle for 
 ten days (see Poek, Pickled). Take the meat 
 out, wash, drain, and dry it, mince it finely, 
 season with a little black pepper, salt, and all- 
 spice, mix thoroughly, and put it into skins. 
 Tie the ends securely, wrap the sausages in one 
 fold of muslin, and hang them in smoke, as 
 hams are hung, until they turn red. When 
 wanted, throw them into boiling water, let them 
 simmer gently until done enough, let them get 
 cold, and serve cut into thin slices. Time to' boil, 
 half an hour. ProbaWe cost, Is. 2d. per pound. 
 
 PORK SAUSAGES, WITHOUT SKINS. 
 
 Prepare the sausages accordinpf to the direc- 
 tions already given (see Poek Sausages) ; and 
 when the ingredients are thoroughly mixed, 
 bind them together with two or three well- 
 beaten eggs. Make them into small rolls, egg 
 and breafcrumb them, and fry them over a 
 clear fire until they are nicely browned. Send 
 good brown gravy to table with them. Time to 
 fry, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost. 
 Is. per pound. 
 
 PORK SAVELOYS. 
 
 Take three pounds of tender pork free 
 from skin and sinew; rub it well with half an 
 ounce of saltpetre and eight ounces of common 
 salt. Leave it for three or four days, and turn 
 and rub it every day. Mince finely, and mix 
 with it a heaped tea-spoonful of white pepper, 
 half a dozen young sage-leaves chopped small, 
 and half a pound of finely-grated bread-crumbs. 
 Mix these ingredients thoroughly. Fill the skins 
 which have been prepared according to the 
 directions given in the recipe for making pork 
 sausages, tie them securely at both ends, and 
 bake in a moderate oven. Serve either hot or 
 cold. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable 
 cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient for eight or ten 
 persons. 
 PORK, SCRAMBLED (an American dish). 
 
 Soak a pound of salt pork to freshen it. Drain 
 it, cut it into pieces about an inch square ; fry 
 these in hot fat, and move them about that they 
 may be equally cooked. When they are almost 
 done enough, stir^in with them from six to 
 
 twelve well-beaten eggs, and beat all quickly 
 together. When the eggs are set, turn the 
 mixture upon a hot dish, and send boiled, 
 baked, or roasted potatoes to table with it. If 
 the pork gives out a good deal of fat whilst it is 
 being fried, pour this off before dishing the meat. 
 Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 
 pork, 9d. to lOd. per found. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. 
 
 PORK, SHOULDER OF, MARINADED. 
 
 Lay a shoulder of pork in a deep earthen pan, 
 pour over it half a pint of vinegar, and put with 
 it a dessert-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of 
 bruised peppercorns, half a lemon, two onions 
 sliced, a tea-spoonful of juniper berries, half a 
 dozen cloves, and a bay-leaf. Let the pork lie 
 in this pickle for five days, and turn and rub it 
 every day. Take it up, drain it, cover it 
 with oiled paper, and roast before a clear fire, 
 though* at some distance from it. Baste 
 liberally with the strained pickle. For sauce, 
 mix a quarter of a pint of the pickle with a 
 quarter of a pint of cold water ; add half a tea- 
 spoonful of brown thickening, and a little 
 pepper and salt if required. Serve in a tureen. 
 
 PORK SOUP, OR JELLY. 
 
 Cut up and break the bone of a leg of pork; 
 simmer it gently in three gallons of water till 
 the liquid is reduced to one. Add salt, pepper, 
 and nutmeg to taste, and strain it. This may 
 either be taken as soup, or eaten cold as jelly,, 
 and is very nourishing. 
 
 PORK, SPARE-RIB OF, BAKED. 
 
 Take a spare-rib of pork weighing about eight 
 pounds, flour it well, and bake it in a moderate 
 oven for three and a half hours. Just before 
 serving sprinkle some chopped sage over, and 
 baste with the gravy that comes from the meat. 
 As the meat is generally very lean it should be 
 frequently basted. Probable cost, lOd. per 
 pound. 
 
 PORK, SPARE-RIB OF, ROASTED. 
 
 A spare-rib of pork usually weighs about eight 
 or nine pounds, and will take from two to three 
 hours to roast it thoroughly — ^not exactly ac- 
 cording to its weight, but the thickness of the 
 meat upon it, which varies very much. Lay 
 the thick end nearest to the fire. A proper hala 
 spare-rib of eight pounds' weight (so called 
 because almost all the meat is pared off), with 
 a steady fire, will be done in an hour and a 
 quarter — there is so little meat on a bald spare- 
 rib that if you have a large, fierce fire it will 
 be burnt before it is warmed through. Joint 
 it nicely, and crack the ribs across as you do 
 ribs of lamb. When you put it down to roast, 
 dust on some flour, and baste with a little 
 butter. Dry a dozen sage-leaves, rub them 
 through a hair sieve, and put them into the top 
 of a pepper-box, and about a quarter of an hour 
 before the meat is done baste it with butter, 
 then dust with the pulverised sage, or sprinkle 
 with duck-stuffing. Some people carve a spare-rib 
 by cutting out in slices the thick part at the 
 bottom of the bones. When this meat is out 
 away the bones may be easily separated, and 
 are esteemed very sweet picking. Apple sauce, 
 mashed potatoes, and good mustard, are indis- 
 pensable. 
 
FOR 
 
 590 
 
 FOR 
 
 PORK, SPARE-RIB OF, ROASTED (another way). 
 Sprinkle a handful of salt over the spare- 
 rib, and let it lie for a day or two. When it is 
 to be cooked, brush or wash the salt off, joint 
 the meat neatly, and crack the ribs across. 
 Put it down to a clear and steady, but by no 
 means fierce, fire, or the little meat that there 
 is upon it will be dried up. Dredge a little flour 
 over it, and baste well. About a quarter of an 
 hour before it is done enough, sprinkle a little 
 powdered sage over it, and send brown gravy 
 and apple sauce to table with it. Time, accord- 
 ing to the thickness rather than the weight of 
 the joint : say a quarter of an hour per pound, 
 if thin. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. 
 
 PORK, STEWED WITH VEGETABLES. 
 
 Cut the heart of a large savoy into quarters. 
 Put these into a large iron stewpan with half a 
 dozen carrots cut into lengths, three fUrnips 
 halved, eight moderate-sized whole potatoes, 
 and two pounds of fresh pork with more lean 
 than fat in it. Season with pepper and salt, 
 pour over them a pint of nicely-flavoured stock, 
 cover the saucepan closely, and let them stew 
 as gently as possible until done enough. Serve 
 the pork on a hot dish with the vegetables neatly 
 arranged round it. Pour part of the gravy over 
 the meat, and send the rest to table in a tureen. 
 Time to stew, from two and a half to three 
 hours. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. 
 
 PORK, STUFFING FOR. 
 
 {See Onioit anb Sage Stutping roB Goose, 
 Duck, ob Poek.) 
 
 pork, wholesomeness of. 
 
 Pork is a very savoury food, and uncommonly 
 nourishing: it is thus suited to persons who 
 lead an active or laborious life. It is not, 
 however, easily digested. The too frequent and 
 long-continued use of this meat is held by 
 medical men to favour obesity, produce foulness 
 of the stomach and bowels, and occasion dis- 
 orders of the skin. The flesh of the sucking- 
 pig is considered a great delicacy, and is 
 nourishing, but it does not appear to be more 
 wholesome than that of the grown animal. It 
 is not readily dissolved in the stomach. The 
 flesh of the wild ho^ is dense, but sufficiently 
 tender, very nourishing, and more savoury, as 
 well as more easily digested, than that of the 
 domestic hog. It is in season in October. The 
 finest part is the head, and the flesh of the 
 young wild hog is considered a great delicacy. 
 Pork, fat and lean together, has been shown 
 to require about five hours for digestion. There 
 is no doubt that much of the indigestibility of 
 pork arises, not only from the fat, ostensibly 
 existing as such, but from the large amount of 
 fatty matter mixed with the muscular fibre. 
 
 PORK, WITH LIVER. 
 
 Slice two pounds of pig's liver, not thinner 
 than half an inch. Boil two pounds of belly of 
 pork slightly salted, and slice it also. Put the 
 liver into a pint of gravy, or stock ; add a grated 
 carrot, and a good-sized onion sliced and fried 
 brown, with a sprinkling of sage and pepper. 
 Cook gently for an hour and a half, then thicken 
 with brown flour ; add the sliced pork, and some 
 more gravy to cover the whole; boil up, and 
 
 serve with a border of puree of split peas round 
 the dish. 
 
 PORPOISE. 
 
 This fish is often caught at sea by the crews 
 of vessels, and its flesh makes a pleasant 
 change from ordinary sea fare. It can be made 
 into many appetising dishes if care is taken in 
 the cooking. Soak the pieces of fish you are 
 going to use in vinegar and water for an hour; 
 they may then be fried as steaks or cutlets, or 
 made into mincemeat, or curried. The liver, 
 which tastes very much like pig's liver, may be 
 fried with bacon. The meat from the back near 
 the head is the most suitable for steaks and 
 cutlets. 
 
 PORRIDGE, LENTIL. 
 
 To every quart of water add about six table- 
 spoonfuls of lentil flour; let the whole boil 
 for about fifteen minutes, season with pepper 
 and salt, and serve with milk as an accompani- 
 ment. 
 
 PORRIDGE, MILK. 
 
 (See MlIiK POEEIDGE.) 
 
 PORRIDGE, MILK, FRENCH. 
 
 Soak two ounces of oatmeal in half a pint 
 of water. When the oatmeal has settled at the 
 bottom and left the water clear, strain off, and 
 add the same quantity of fresh water, which 
 should rest till the next day, and then be passed 
 through a fine sieve into a saucepan. When 
 boiling, pour in the milk, and serve. This 
 makes a wholesome breakfast for a delicate 
 stomach. Time, half an hour to boil. Prob- 
 able cost, 4d. per pound. 
 
 PORRIDGE, OATMEAL. 
 
 Oatmeal porridge is a leading article of food 
 with the Scottish peasantry. It is generally 
 accompanied with milk when milk is to be had ; 
 when milk is very scarce butter is sometimes 
 used, and sometimes sugar. " For most persons 
 in a sound condition of health," says a north- 
 country writer, " there is no more wholesome 
 article of food than porridge and milk, none 
 that contains a larger proportion both of flesh- 
 forming and heat-producing substances; whilst 
 to almost all who have ever been accustomed 
 to its use, it is extremely palatable. Generally 
 speaking, there is no better article of food for 
 the nursery, none more likely to maintain a 
 healthy condition of the stomach, or to give 
 vigour to the frame, although there are excep- 
 tional cases, both amongst the young and 
 amongst adults, in which the use of porridge 
 is unsuitable, producing painful distention of 
 the stomach and indigestion. Whilst the 
 caprices of children ought not to be heeded in 
 such a matter, the actual condition of their 
 constitutions ought to be carefully observed and 
 regarded. Porridge is in general made by sim- 
 ply boiling oatmeal in water, stirring all the 
 time to prevent singeing, and to secure the 
 thorough mixture of the meal and water into a 
 homogeneous mass without knots. The quality of 
 porridge very much depends on the amount of 
 boiling which it receives. It cannot be too 
 thoroughly boiled. Imperfectly boiled oatmeal 
 porridge is a very coarse article of food; and 
 unfortunately much of the porridge used by the 
 
FOR 
 
 591 
 
 iPOR 
 
 poorer classes is of this character, and the por- 
 ridge prepared for the nursery is often no 
 lietter, through the carelessness of servants who 
 ■wish to get through their work with as little 
 trouble as possible. It is not nearly so di- 
 gestible, and therefore, not so nutritious, as 
 porridge really well made. A common mistake 
 in the making of porridge must also here be 
 noticed as tending much to the deterioration of 
 its quality — the adding of meal by degrees, 
 whilst the boiling goes on, until the proper 
 thickness is acqviired, the result being that part 
 of the meal is imperfectly boiled. The cook 
 ought to know the proper proportions of meal 
 and water — ^knowledge not very difficult to ac- 
 quire — and mix them at once, so that all the 
 meal may be equally well boiled. But it is 
 to .be observed that the water must be boiling 
 before the meal is put in, which is not to be 
 introduced in a mass, but, as it were, strained 
 through the fingers handful by handful as 
 quickly as possible." % 
 
 PORRIDGE, OATMEAL (another way). 
 
 Put a pint and a half of water, or milk and 
 water, into a saucepan, and add a pinch of salt. 
 When the liquid fully boils, as it is rising in 
 the pan, sprinkle gradually two ounces of oat- 
 meal into it with the left hand, and at the same 
 time stir briskljr with a. fork held in the right 
 hand. Keep stirring until the lumps are beaten 
 out. Boil the mixture for a quarter of an hour, 
 pour it on a plate, and eat it with milk and 
 sugar or treacle. A larger or a smaller quantity 
 of oatmeal may be used, according to taste. 
 Porridge will be found to make a very nourish- 
 ing and wholesome breakfast for children. The 
 secret of making it properly is to let the water 
 boil fast before putting in the oatmeal. Time, 
 a quarter of an hour from the moment the water 
 boils. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for one person. 
 
 PORRIDGE, OATMEAL (another way). 
 {See Oatmeal Pobbidge.) 
 
 PORRIDGE, ONION. 
 
 (See Onion Pobbidge.) 
 PORRIDGE, PEAS. 
 
 (See PR4.S Pobbidge.) 
 PORRIDGE, PLUM. 
 
 (See Plum Pobbidge ob Bboth.) 
 
 PORRIDGE, RICE AND BARLEY. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound each of rice and 
 Scotch barley, and wash them thoroughly in 
 boiling water. Strain off, and boil gently in 
 water for three or four hours ; strain again, and 
 boil up in a little milk for a short time before 
 wanted. A little cream is a great improvement. 
 This porridge can be flavoured with pepper and 
 salt, but is very nice with brown sugar, treacle, 
 or jam, and when cold is an agreeable accom- 
 paniment to stewed fruit. 
 
 PORRIDGE, SAGO. 
 
 Wash the sago in cold water ; then boil it in 
 water, allowing about two table-spoonfuls to 
 every pint. Add pepper and salt, and let cold 
 milk be served with the porridge. 
 
 PORRIDGE, WHOLE MEAL. 
 
 Boil a quart of water, and gradually stir in 
 about half a pound of whole meal. Let it boil 
 
 for about twenty minutes, add salt to taste, and 
 serve with cold milk as an accompaniment. 
 
 PORTABLE SOUP. 
 
 Take five pounds of the shin of beef and three 
 pounds of the knuckle of veal. Cut the meat 
 into small pieces. Take out the marrow from 
 the bones, and break them up. Put them with 
 the m,eat into a stewpan with two gallons of cold 
 water; bring this gradually to the boil, skim 
 carefully, and add half a cupful of cold water 
 two or three times to assist the scum in rising. 
 Draw the soup to the side of the fire, and let it 
 simmer gently but continuously for eight or ten 
 hours. Strain through a hair sieve, and put it 
 aside until the following day. Remove the cake of 
 fat from the top, and pour off the soup care- 
 fully, leaving behind the settlings which are 
 at the bottom of the pan. Put it into a sauce- 
 pan with a dozen peppercorns and a tea-spoon- 
 ful of salt; leave the pan uncovered, and let 
 the liquid boil quickly until it begins to 
 tliicken. Pour it at once into a clean dry jar, 
 place this in a saucepan over a gentle fire, and 
 let it boil until it feels quite ropy and thick. 
 Watch it carefully that it does not burn. Take 
 a little out in a spoon, and if it jellies it is 
 done enough. Pour it at once into small jelly- 
 pots, and when it is cold turn the shapes out 
 and put them on flannel in a warm place to dry. 
 Keep them in tin canisters. If it is wished 
 that the soup should be flavoured, sweet herbs, 
 vegetables, and spices can be stewed with the 
 meat, but usually it is more convenient that 
 these should be omitted : the soup can then 
 be used for any purpose. When it is wanted it 
 is only necessary to dissolve one or two of the 
 cakes in boiling water, and make the soup of 
 any strength or any flavour that is required. 
 This portable soup, which was formerly very 
 valuable for ordinary household purposes, and 
 also for the use of those who were obliged to 
 take their provisions with them on long jour- 
 neys, is now almost entirely superseded by 
 Bovril and other extracts. Time, two days to 
 make; eight or nine days to dry. 
 
 PORT FLIP. 
 
 Beat up an egg in a tumbler, add a little 
 sugar, a glass of port wine, and some pounded 
 ice. Strain before drinking. Probable cost, 8d. 
 
 PORTLAND PUDDING. 
 
 Beat separately the whites and yolks of four 
 eggs. Put the yolks into a bowl, and mix with 
 them very gradually half a pound of dried flour. 
 Beat the batter till it is quite free from lumps. 
 Stir into it four ounces of moist sugar, six 
 ounces of clarified butter, one ounce each of 
 candied lemon and candied orange-peel, the two 
 last being finely shredded. Add a pinch of salt, 
 the eighth of a nutmeg, grated, one pound of 
 stoned raisins, and last of all the whites of the 
 eggs beaten to a firm froth. Beat the pud- 
 ding five or six minutes. Pour it into a but- 
 tered basin, tie it in a cloth, and learve room for 
 the pudding to swell. Plunge it into boiling 
 water, and keep it boiling until it is done 
 enough. Turn it out carefully, and serve with 
 sweet sauce. Time to boil, five hours. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 8d. Sufiicient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
POR 
 
 592 
 
 POR 
 
 PORTERHOUSE STEAK. 
 
 A porterhouse steak is cut from the sirloin, 
 about an inch and a half thick, and includes the 
 undercut as well as the topcut. Cut two ounces 
 of fat bacon into long narrow strips, and lard 
 the steak with them on one side only. Take a 
 carrot, a turnip, and an onion, cut them into 
 pieces about a quarter of an inch long, place 
 them in a pie-dish with some dripping, and 
 pepper and salt ; then lay the steak on the Vege- 
 tables, the larded side up, pour a little water 
 in, then bake for three-quarters of an hour. 
 Take up the steak and put it on a hot dish, 
 mix a tea-spoonful of Bovril with the gravy and 
 strain it over the steak. Garnish with the vege- 
 tables, and serve. The steak is also frequently 
 grilled in the ordinary way. Probable cost, 4s. 
 
 PORTUGUESE APPLE PIE. 
 
 Line the inside of a moderate-sized pie-dish 
 with good crust. Put into it half a dozen good 
 baking apples, which have been pared, cored, 
 and cut into thin slices. Sprinkle a little sugar 
 and two or three inches of thin lemon-rind cut 
 into narrow strips over them. Spread a small 
 portion of apricot jam upon them, and cover 
 the whole with a cold custard made with half a 
 pint of milk and six well-beaten eggs. The 
 custard should be sweetened, and may be 
 flavoured with lemon, almond, or any other 
 flavouring. Bake in a moderate oven. Time 
 to bake, half an hour. If the apples are 
 not of a kind to fall they should be cooked 
 beforehand. 
 
 PORTUGUESE CAKES. 
 
 Beat half a pound of fresh butter to a cream. 
 Add half a pound of powdered and sifted sugar, 
 half a pound of fine flour, and the yolks of five 
 eggs. Beat the ingredients thoroughly, and 
 mix in gradually a table-spoonful of orange- 
 flower water, a glass of sherry, four ounces of 
 picked and dried currants, and last of all the 
 whites of the eggs, which have been beaten to 
 a firm froth. Beat the mixture for some 
 minutes, pour it into small buttered tins, and 
 bake in a brisk oven from fifteen minutes to 
 half an hour, according to the size of the tins. 
 Probable cost. Is. lOd., exclusive of the sherry. 
 
 PORTUGUESE CAKES (another way). 
 
 Take half a pound of flour and the yolks 
 of six eggs. Put these into a basin, and 
 work with a spoon till frothy. Pound four 
 ounces of almonds with, the white of an egg, 
 pass them through a sieve, add a pinch of 
 orange-sugar, and dilute with the juice of 
 four oranges. As soon as the cake-prepara- 
 tion is frothy, add to it carefully four ounces 
 of potato-flour. Next add the almonds and 
 orange-juice, together with the six whipped 
 whites of eggs. Pour the mixture on a baking- 
 3heet with an up-standing border, the baking- 
 sheet being buttered ana covered with paper. 
 Spread the mixture in a layer one inch thick. 
 Bake in a moderate oven. When the cake has 
 cooled, face it on the top and mask on this side, 
 first with a thin layer of apricot marmalade, 
 and afterwards with a layer of orange - icing 
 sugar. Divide the cake immediately into 
 squares, and let the glaze dry. The orange- 
 icing sugar is made by soaking the rind of two 
 
 oranges in a gill of syrup, adding the juice of 
 the fruit, sugar to make a stiff paste, and yellow 
 colouring. This icing should be worked over 
 the fire till warm. 
 
 PORTUGUESE FRITTERS. 
 
 Put half an inch of stick cinnamon and the 
 rind of half a small lemon into a pint of milk. 
 Let the liquid remain a little time till the milk 
 is slightly flavoured, then pour it, without 
 straining it, into a saucepan, and put with it 
 six ounces of best Carolina rice, two ounces of 
 fresh butter, and a little sugar. Let it simmer 
 very gently until the rice is quite tender and 
 has absorbed all the milk. Pour the prepara- 
 tion out, beat it well for two or three minutes, 
 and stir into it the well-beaten yolks of three 
 eggs. When it is a little cool, make it into 
 balls about an inch and a half in diameter, and 
 carefully introduce into the centre of each a 
 small portion of orange marmalade. Brush the 
 balls over with beaten egg, and dip them into 
 finely-grated bread-crumbs. Put them into a 
 wire frying-basket, and plunge them into as 
 much hot fat as will quite cover them. Let 
 them remain until they are lightly browned, 
 drain them carefully, and serve piled on a nap- 
 kin and covered with sifted sugar. Time to 
 boil the rice, about three-quarters of an hour. 
 Probable cost. Is. 4d. Suf&cient for six or seven 
 persons. 
 
 PORTUGUESE PUDDING. 
 
 Boil half a pint of milk with three inches of 
 thin lemon-rind. Stir into it, when boiling, 
 three dessert-spoonfuls of ground rice which has 
 been mixed smoothly with three table-spoonfuls 
 of cream. Stir the mixture over the fire for two 
 minutes after it boils, then pour it out to cool. 
 Add a little sugar, together with the yolks of 
 three and the whites of two eggs well beaten. 
 Pour the pudding into a buttered dish, and bake 
 in a moderate oven. When done enough, take 
 out the pudding, and let it stand until it is 
 cold and stiff. Before serving, lay upon it a 
 little apricot or any other fine jam. Time to 
 bake, about three-quarters of an hour. Prob- 
 able cost, 9d., exclusive of the jam. Sufficient 
 for a small dish. 
 
 PORTUGUESE SAUCE (for Fish). 
 
 Beat the yolks of two fresh eggs, and mix 
 them with four ounces of butter and a table- 
 spoonful of lemon-juice. Put these ingredients 
 into an earthen jar, and set this in a small 
 saucepan of hot water. Put the pan on a slow 
 fire, and beat the contents of the jar unceasingly 
 until the sauce begins to thicken. Add a small 
 quantity of water in order to make it of the 
 consistency of thick cream. Season with pepper 
 and salt, and serve. Probable cost, 7d. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 
 PORT WINE JELLY. 
 
 Put an ounce of best isinglass into a perfectly 
 clean saucepan with half a pint of cold water, 
 an inch of cinnamon, and a blade of mace. Stir 
 over the fire till the isinglass is dissolved. Put 
 with it an ounce of sugar and a pint of port. 
 Strain through a jelly-bapf, and put it in a cool 
 place to set. This jelly is considered to be ex- 
 tremely nourishing for invalids. Time, one 
 hour to prepare. 
 
POR 
 
 593 
 
 POT 
 
 PORT WINE SAUCE. 
 
 Fry an onion in butter with a bouquet garni, 
 add a pint of rich thick stock, boil and ekim. 
 Strain, add a dessert-spoonful of red currant 
 jelly, and a glass of port wine. Boil up again, 
 and serve. This is a favourite accompaniment 
 to roast wild duck. 
 
 POSSET. 
 
 This is an old and popular domestic prepara- 
 tion for the sick, made with milk curdled by 
 means of treacle, beer, and other articles. 
 
 POSSET, ALE. 
 
 Boil a pint of new milk with a slice of toasted 
 bread. Pour a bottle of mild ale into a bowl, 
 add sugar and spices to taste, then pour the 
 boiling milk over it. A fine head should rise. 
 
 POSSET, CORNFLOUR (for a cold). 
 
 Mix a quarter of a pint of sherry gradually 
 and smoothly with half an ounce of cornflour. 
 Add one ounce and a half of pure honey and two 
 cloves, and put the mixtiire into a saucepan. 
 Stir over a gentle fire for four or five minutes, 
 strain, and drink the posset warm the last thing 
 at night. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the 
 wine. Sufficient for one person, 
 
 POSSET, POPE'S. 
 
 {See Pope's Posset.) 
 
 POSSET, SACK. 
 
 Boil some cream and sweet biscuits, grated; 
 add sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Warm 
 some sherry ; stir it into the cream. Then pour 
 the whole quickly from one vessel to another 
 until it is quite smooth. Eggs beaten up in 
 milk may be used instead of cream. 
 
 POSSET, TREACLE (for a cold). 
 
 Boil half a pint of milk, and stir into it, as it 
 is rising in the pan, one table-spoonful of good 
 treacle. Let it boil until the curd separates, 
 then strain it off, and serve the posset very hot. 
 A little water may be added if it is too sweet, 
 and dry toast may be eaten with it. Time, five 
 or six minutes. Probable cost, 2id. Sufficient 
 for one person. 
 
 POSSET, TREACLE (another way). 
 
 Take half a pint of new milk, one wine-glass- 
 ful of sherry or marsala, and one or two table- 
 spoonfuls of treacle. Heat these ingredients 
 together in a clean saucepan till the milk coagu- 
 lates. This preparation — sometimes called 
 treacle posset and sometimes molasses posset — ■ 
 is highly esteemed in some parts of the country 
 as a domestic remedy for colds. It is taken 
 before going to bed. Lemon-juice, strong old 
 ale, or even vinegar, is sometimes substituted 
 for wine, and powdered ginger or nutmeg added 
 to taste. 
 
 POSSET, WINE. 
 
 Grate finely the crumb of a stale roll, and 
 put it into a saucepan with a pint of water and 
 two large lumps of sugar which have been rub- 
 bed upon the rind of a Seville orange until the 
 yellow part has been taken off. Let the mixture 
 simmer until it is thick and clear, then add a 
 pint of light wine, two ounces of sweet almonds, 
 and six bitter ones blanched and pounded, half 
 the juice of the Seville orange, and sugar to 
 
 2m 
 
 taste. Mix thoroughly, and serve. Time, about 
 half an hour. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of 
 the wine. 
 
 POTAGE ik la Colbert). 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of carrot and a 
 quarter of a pound of turnip, and cut them into 
 squares, diamonds, rounds, or any other shapes 
 of uniform size. Boil them in slightly salted 
 water until they are done enough. Dram them, 
 and put them into a clean stewpan, with three 
 pints of delicately-flavoured clear soup. Let 
 them boil a minute ; then serve the soup. Send 
 half a dozen poached eggs to table on a separate 
 dish, or adopt the more usual method of serving 
 the poached eggs in the tureen with the soup. 
 
 POTAGE ^k la Conde). 
 
 Soak a breakfast-cupful of red haricot beans 
 in cold water all night. Slice an onion, put it 
 with the beans, and boil in three pints of water 
 for four hours. Pass the liquid through a hair 
 sieve, and rub the beans through with a wooden 
 spoon. Put pulp and liquid back into the 
 saucepan, season with pepper and salt, stir till 
 the soup boils, and serve. 
 
 POTAGE (^ la Cr£cy). 
 
 A superlative carrot soup. Slice off the red 
 part of a dozen large carrots, and put them 
 into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, a 
 large lump of sugar, three good-sized onions, 
 two turnips, a dozen peppercorns, a quarter of 
 a pound of uncooked lean ham, the outer sticks 
 of two heads of celery, and four leeks. Cover, 
 then sweat the vegetables over a gentle fire for 
 ten minutes. Shake the saucepan to keep the 
 contents from burning. Pour over them a. 
 quart of cold stock or water, and let them 
 simmer gently for two hours, or until the vege- 
 tables are quite tender. Strain off the soup, 
 and with a wooden spoon press the vegetables 
 through a sieve. Mix the pulp again with the 
 stock, season with pepper and salt, put it back 
 into the stewpan, and let it boil. Draw it to 
 the side of the fire for a few minutes, and skim 
 off the fat as it rises to the surface. Add pepper 
 and salt, and serve. Send toasted sippets to 
 table in a separate dish. If there is no stock 
 at hand, and water has to be used for the soup, 
 a table-spoonful of Bovril should be added to it. 
 Time, three hours and a half. Probable cost, 
 8d. per pint. Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 POTAGE (k la Reine). 
 
 This is a delicate white soup, said to 
 have been a great favourite with her late 
 Majesty Queen Victoria. Skin and wash care- 
 fully three young chickens or two large 
 fowls, and boil them in five pints of good 
 nicely-flavoured veal stock for about an hour. 
 Lift them out, pick off all the white meat, put 
 the bodies of the birds again into the stewpan, 
 and let them simmer an hour and a half longer. 
 Season the broth with salt and cayenne, and 
 when it ia sufficiently simmered pour it out, let 
 it cool, and thoroughly take off the fat which 
 rises to the surface. Pound the white flesh of 
 the birds to a perfectly smooth paste, and with 
 it a tea-cupful of finely-grated bread-crumbs. 
 Mix gradually with this paste a small quantity 
 of the boiling stock, and press it through a fine 
 hair-sieve. Add the rest of the stock, and stir 
 
por 
 
 594 
 
 POT 
 
 the whole over a gentle fire in a clean saucepan 
 until it boils. Add from a pint to a pint and a 
 half of boiling' cream. Serve very hot. If 
 liked, the cream may be slightly flavoured with 
 almonds. If veal broth is not at hand, a little 
 may be made as follows. Buy a knuckle of 
 veal from which nearly all the meat has been 
 cut off. Break it into small pieces, and put them 
 into a stewpau with half a pound of lean ham 
 cut up small — or a ham bone — a small carrot, a 
 small onion, a head of celery, a large blade of 
 mace, a bunch of parsley, and a dozen white 
 peppercorns. Pour over these a gallon of cold 
 water. Bring the liquid slowly to the boil, skim 
 very carefully, then draw the pan to the side 
 and let the contents simmer for six or seven 
 hours until the stock is reduced to five pints. 
 Pour the soup out, and leave it until the next 
 day. Take the fat from the top, and pour off 
 the soup without the settlings. Boil the fowls 
 in this stock. If the soup is not sufficiently 
 thick, it may be made so with a little arrow- 
 root or ground rice. Time, about four hours. 
 Probable cost. Is. 8d. per pint, exclusive of the 
 veal stock. Sufficient for twelve persons. 
 
 POTAGE (k la Xavler). 
 
 Mix the well-beaten yolks of four eggs and 
 the white of one with three-quarters of a pint 
 of flour. Add a little pepper and salt, the 
 eighth part of a nutmeg, grated, and a dessert- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley, and mix all the 
 ingredients thoroughly. Stir in as much stock 
 as will make the batter thin enough to pass 
 through a colander. Boil two parts of strained 
 and nicely-flavoured stock. Put the batter into 
 it by means of a ladle perforated with holes, 
 and stir well as long as it is on the fire. Skim 
 carefully. Boil a quarter of an hour longer, 
 and serve. Probable cost, exclusive of the 
 stock, 7d. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. 
 
 POTAGE DE VEAU. 
 
 Take » knuckle of veal weighing about five 
 pounds. Cut off the meat, not too closely, and 
 break the bone into small pieces. Put these 
 into a stewpan with an onion, a large blade of 
 mace, a dozen peppercorns, a bunch of parsley, 
 and a small sprig of thyme. Pour over all two 
 quarts of cold water. Cover the saucepan 
 closely, and simmer the liqUid gently for five 
 hours. Strain the soup, and leave it until the 
 next day ; it ought to form a jelly. Put it, free 
 from fat and sediment, into a stewpan, with a 
 little pepper and salt, and any vegetables or 
 mixture of vegetables that may be chosen. 
 Jerusalem artichokes, seakale, and celery, are 
 the most suitable. Stew these until they are 
 quite tender, and press them through a hair- 
 sieve. Make the soup hot, mix with it half a 
 pint of boiling cream, and serve. Send fried 
 crusts to table on a' separate dish. Time to 
 simmer the soup, five hours the first day from 
 the time the water reaches the boiling point; 
 one hour and a half the second. Probable cost, 
 varying v/ith the ingredients. Sufficient for 
 eight or nine persons. 
 
 POTATO. 
 
 The potato on its introduction into the British 
 Islands was served at first as a delicacy, and 
 came very slowly into general use, though now 
 it constitutes one of the cheapest and most com- 
 
 mon kinds of vegetable food. It is not very nu- 
 tritious; indeed, it is less so than any other 
 vegetable ; nevertheless its cultivation has again 
 and again prevented famine in agricultural dis- 
 tricts, and it is well known that the Irish — a 
 hardy and healthy race — subsisted for some time 
 almost entirely upon it. There are a great 
 many varieties of potato, and generally each 
 locality has its favourite, which is known by the 
 local name. Its excellence, however, depends 
 to a very large extent upon the cooking; and 
 whilst a good potato may oe spoilt by bad cook- 
 ing, an inferior potato may, with proper man- 
 agement, be rendered comparatively good. It is 
 to be feared, however, that large quantities of 
 potatoes are constantly wasted in many families, 
 owing to the way in which they are cooked. 
 
 POTATO AND ALMOND PUDDING. 
 
 Mash six ounces of boiled potatoes, dry and 
 floury, till they are perfectly smooth. Blanch 
 three ounces of sweet almonds and four bitter 
 ones, and pound them, but not finely, with a 
 little orange-flower water. Let them simmer in 
 half a pint of new milk until the flavour is 
 drawn out, and dissolve in the milk four ounces 
 of fresh butter and four ounces of powdered 
 sugar. Stir the mixture into the potatoes, add 
 a pinch of salt, a little grated nutmeg, and the 
 rind and juice of half a lemon. Beat the pud- 
 ding till it is light and smooth, and add 
 separately the yolks and well-whisked whites of 
 five eggs. Line a pie-dish with puff-paste, and 
 pour in the mixture. Chop half a dozen al- 
 monds rather coarsely, strew, them over the pud- 
 ding, and bake in a well-heated oven for one 
 hour. Probable cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. 
 
 POTATO AND HAM PUDDING. 
 
 {See Potato Pudding, with Ham, etc.) 
 
 POTATO AND LEEK SOUP. 
 
 (See Leeks and Potato Soup.) 
 
 POTATO AND MILK SOUP. 
 
 Wash, peel, and slice one pound of potatoes; 
 wash and clean half a stick of celery and a leek ; 
 peel an onion, and cut all into small pieces. 
 Put an ounce of butter or dripping into a stew- 
 pan, add the vegetables, and let them steam 
 over the fire for a few minutes. Pour in a 
 quart of stock or water, which must be boiling ; 
 season with pepper, salt, and a little grated 
 nutmeg; boil up, and let it simmer till done. 
 Pass through a colander, return it to the stew- 
 pan, add a pint and a half of milk and a' table- 
 spoonful of crushed tapioca. Stir well, and let 
 all simmer for about twenty minutes, when it 
 will be ready for serving. If too thick, add a 
 little more stock or water. 
 
 POTATO BALLS. 
 
 Steam two pounds of mealy potatoes, and 
 beat them till they are quite smooth and free 
 from lumps. Mix with them two ounces of 
 fresh butter, a tea-spoonful of salt, and two 
 table-spoonfuls of boiling cream or milk. Make 
 them into balls the size of a walnut, brush each 
 one over with beaten egg, and fry in hot butter 
 until they are nicely browned. If liked, a little 
 grated ham, a finely-minced shallot, or a little 
 chopped parsley, may be adde-j to the potatoes, 
 
POT 
 
 595 
 
 POT 
 
 and the mixture may be bound together with 
 the yolk of an egg. Send good brown gravy to 
 table with the. potato balls. Time, ten minutes 
 to fry the potatoes. Probable cost. Id. or 2d. 
 per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 (See also Potato Cones.) 
 
 POTATO BALLS (another way). 
 
 Mash one pound of dry mealy potatoes until 
 they are quite smooth. Before they have time 
 to cool, mix with them a table-spoonful of hot 
 milk, one ounce and a half of clarified butter, 
 a salt-spoonful of salt, a pinch of pepper, a little 
 grated nutmeg, and the well-beateu yolks of 
 three eggs. Beat the mixture till these ingre- 
 dients are thoroughly blended, then add the 
 whites of the eggs whisked to a firm froth. 
 Mould the preparation into small balls the size 
 of a large marble, and frj; in hot fat until they 
 are lightly browned. Drain, and serve the balls 
 piled on a hot napkin. Time to fry, five or six 
 minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for 
 three or four persons. 
 
 POTATO BALLS (economical). 
 
 Take one pound of cold boiled potatoes, rub 
 through a wire sieve, put into a stewpan with 
 half an ounce of butter, and a dessert-spoonful 
 of milk; beat over the fire till smooth. Add 
 pepper and salt, the yolk of an egg, and a little 
 chopped parsley. When cold form into balls, 
 brush over with the white of egg, roll in bread- 
 crumbs, and fry in hot fat. 
 
 POTATO BISCUITS. 
 
 Bake half a dozen large potatoes, and when 
 they are done enough, burst them open, and 
 scoop out the inside with a tea-spoon until 
 there is a quarter of a pound of the flour. Pass 
 this through a fine sieve, and mix with it the 
 well-beaten yolks of eight eggs, the grated peel 
 of half a lemon, and half a pound of pounded 
 and sifted sugar. Beat the paste until it is 
 quite light, then add the whites of the eggs 
 beaten to a firm froth. Make some small paper 
 cases, oil them, and half fill them with the bat- 
 ter. Strew a little sugar over them, and bake 
 in a, moderate oven. If liked, a little bright- 
 coloured jelly may be put over the biscuits be- 
 fore serving. Time to bake, about twenty 
 minutes. Probable cost. Is. 2d. 
 
 POTATO BISCUITS (M. Ude's recipe). 
 
 Take fifteen fresh eggs, break the yolks into 
 one pan and the whites into another. Beat the 
 yolks with a pound of sugar pounded very fine, 
 scrape the peel of a lemon with a lump of sugar, 
 dry that, and pound it fine also ; then throw 
 it into the yolks, and work the eggs and sugar 
 till they are of a whitish colour. Next, whip 
 the whites well, and mix them with the yolks. 
 Now sift half a pound of flour of potatoes 
 through a silk sieve over the eggs and sugar. 
 Have some paper cases ready, which lay on a 
 plafond, with some paper underneath. Pill the 
 cases, but not too full ; glaze the contents with 
 some rather coarse sugar, and bake the whole 
 in an oven moderately heated. 
 
 POTATO BOULETTES. 
 
 Mix half a poimd of mashed potatoes with one 
 ounce of butter and the strained yolks of two 
 eggs, and season with salt and pepper. Whisk 
 
 the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and add 
 them to the potatoes, mixing quickly and 
 thoroughly. Have ready a saucepan of boiling 
 fat, with the frying basket in it. Drop the 
 potatoes, a tea-spoonful at a time, into it; they 
 will swell to double their size. Fry them a light 
 golden colour, drain them very carefully, and 
 serve. 
 
 POTATO BREAD. 
 
 In making bread, a portion of mashed potato 
 is sometimes added to the flour, and this addi- 
 tion improves the bread very much for many 
 tastes; it also keeps it from getting dry quite 
 so soon. At the same time it is not so nutri- 
 tious as ordinary home-made bread. Boil the 
 required quantity of potatoes in their skins, 
 drain and dry them, then peel and weigh them. 
 Pound them with the rolling-pin until they are 
 quite free from lumps, and mix with them the 
 flour, in the proportion of seven pounds of flour 
 to two and a half pounds of potatoes. Add the 
 yeast, and knead in the ordinary way, but make 
 up the bread with milk instead of water. When 
 the dough is well risen, bake the bread in a 
 gentle oven. Bake it a little longer than 
 for ordinary bread, and when it seems done 
 enough, let it stand a little while, with the oven 
 door open, before taking it out. Unless these 
 precautions are taken, the crust will be • hard 
 and brittle, while the inside is still moist and 
 doughy. 
 
 POTATO BREAD (anotiier w&y). 
 
 Rasp or bruise. the potatoes by a rasp or mill, 
 dry the. pulp, and reduce it to flour, which may 
 then be made into bread, with the ordinary pro- 
 portions of yeast. When potato flour is mixed 
 with wheaten flour in equal proportions, it 
 makes excellent bread, being light, and capable 
 of keeping a long time. Bread made with 
 potato flour alone is not, however, to be com- 
 pared with wheaten bread. The following is a 
 way of introducing potatoes into wheaten bread. 
 Boil five pounds of potatoes well, and dry them 
 over a fire or in the oven until they fall to 
 pieces and become flour, which they will do if 
 properly managed. Make of them a batter-like, 
 thick gruel; strain this through a coarse sieve 
 or colander; then mix this instead of water 
 with twenty pounds of flour. If the yeast be 
 good, the bread thus made will be as light and 
 agreeable as that made of all flour. 
 
 POTATO CAKE. 
 
 Take half a pound of dry floury potatoes 
 which have been baked or boiled and then 
 crushed and beaten with a rolling-pin until they 
 are quite free from lumps. Mix with them 
 three ounces of flour and a little pepper and 
 salt, and add to them as much lukewarm milk 
 and butter as will make a smooth, firm dough. 
 Add either a little yeast or an egg, and half a 
 tea-spoonful of baking-powder. Boll this paste 
 out till it is about two inches thick, and then 
 dredge a little flour over it. Cut it out to the 
 exact size of the pan in which it is to be baked. 
 Rub the saucepan over with butter or dripping 
 before putting the cake into it, lay it in very 
 carefully, cover with a plate, shake it every 
 now and then to keep it from burning, and bake 
 on the trivet of the stove over a gentle fire. 
 
POT 
 
 596 
 
 POT 
 
 When it is half done on one side, turn it care- 
 fully upon the other. Serve on a hot dish. 
 Cold potatoes, if dry and floury, may be warmed 
 up in this way. Time to bake the cake, about 
 half an hour. 
 
 POTATO CAKE (another way). 
 
 Peel some mealy baked potatoes, mash, and 
 put them into a saucepan with salt, grated 
 lemon-peel, and fresh butter, stirring the whole 
 well. Add orange-flower water, the yolks of 
 eight eggs, the whisked whites of four, and mix 
 the whole with the potato puree. Pour into a 
 buttered mould, and bake. 
 
 POTATO CAKES. 
 
 Rub two ounces of good beef dripping and 
 two ounces of lard into one pound of flour, add 
 a tea-spoonful of baking-powder, a pinch of salt, 
 and a pound of potato flour which has been ob- 
 tained by scooping out the inside from some 
 hot baked potatoes. Mix these ingredients 
 thoroughly, and stir into them a well-beaten 
 egg and as much lukewarm milk as will make 
 a smooth, light paste. EoU this out to the 
 thickness of an inch or an inch and a half, and 
 cut it into squares or rounds. Lay these on a 
 buttered tin, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 When the cakes are lightly browned on one 
 side, 'turn them upon the other. Cut them 
 open, butter them as soon as they are taken 
 out of the oven, and serve very hot. Time to 
 bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 POTATO CAKES, GERMAN, TO SERVE WITH 
 GAME OR POULTRY. 
 
 Beat up two or three pounds of hot boiled 
 potatoes, dry and mealy, with a slice of butter 
 and t^YO or three eggs. Rub the mash with a 
 wooden spoon until it is quite smooth, and 
 spread it out in a layer about three-quarters of 
 an inch thick. Stamp it into shapes with an 
 ordinary pastry-cutter, brush these over with 
 beaten egg, cover with bread-crumbs, and 
 sprinkle lightly upon them a little grated Par- 
 mesan. Fry in hot fat till they are lightly 
 browned, drain them on blotting-paper, and 
 serve very hot. If liked, they may be used to 
 garnish the dish they are to accompany. Time, 
 four or five minutes to brown the cakes. Prob- 
 able cost, lOd. Suflicient for four or five persons. 
 
 POTATO CAKE, SWEET. 
 
 Bake the required number of potatoes, and 
 when they are done enough, burst them, and 
 scoop out the contents with a spoon. Crush 
 them until they are quite smooth, and weigh 
 them. Mix vdth half a pound of potato, two 
 ounces of powdered sugar, a little candied-peel 
 cut into thin strips, and the well-beaten yolks 
 of three eggs. When these ingredients are 
 thoroughly blended, add the whites of the eggs 
 beaten to a firm froth. Put the mixture into a 
 buttered dish, sift a little sugar over the sur- 
 face, and bake in a brisk oven. Serve the cake 
 hot in the dish in which it was baked. Time to 
 bake, about half an hour. Probable cost, lOd. 
 Sufftcient for four or five persons. 
 
 POTATO CAKE, SWEET (another way). 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of boiled potatoes, 
 dry and floury, and beat them to flour. Mix 
 
 with this one ounce of ground rice, an ounce of 
 sweet almonds and four bitter ones blanched 
 and pounded together, and three ounces of 
 sugar rubbed upon a fresh lemon for a few 
 minutes to extract the flavour and then 
 crushed to powder. Mix these dry ingre- 
 dients thoroughly, and stir into them the well- 
 beaten yolks of five eggs. Beat the mixture 
 for five or six minutes, and add the whites of 
 the eggs beaten to a firm froth. Turn the 
 paste into a well-buttered tin, and bake in a 
 brisk oven for about forty minutes. Probable 
 cost, 9d, Sufficient for a small cake. 
 
 POTATO CHEESE. 
 
 Potato cheeses are very highly esteemed in 
 Germany ; they can be made of various quali- 
 ties, but care must be taken that they are not 
 too rich, and have not too much heat, or they 
 will burst. Boil the potatoes till they are soft, 
 but the skin must not be broken. The potatoes 
 must be large and of the best quality. When 
 boiled carefully peel them, and beat them to 
 a smooth paste in a mortar with a wooden 
 pestle. To make the commonest cheese, put 
 five pounds of potato paste into a cheese 
 tub, with one pound of milk and rennet; add a, 
 sufficient quantity of salt, together with cara- 
 ways and cumin seed, to impart a good 
 flavour. Knead all these ingredients well 
 together, cover up, and allow them to stand 
 three or four days in winter, and two or three 
 in summer. At the end of that time, knead 
 them again, put the paste into wicker moulds, 
 and leave the cheeses to drain until they are 
 quite dry. When dry and firm, lay them on a 
 board, and leave them gradually to acquire 
 hardness in a place of very moderate warmth; 
 should the heat be too great, as we have already 
 said, they will burst. When, in spite of all 
 precautions, such accidents occur, the crevices 
 of thd burst cheeses are, in Germany, filled with 
 curds and cream mixed, some being also put 
 over the whole surface of the cheese, which is 
 then dried again. As soon as the cheeses are 
 thoroughly dry and hard, place them in barrels 
 with green chickweed between each cheese; let 
 them stand for about three weeks, when they 
 will be fit for use. 
 
 POTATO CHEESE (other ways). 
 
 A better potato cheese than that produced by 
 following the preceding recipe may be made 
 with four pounds of potato paste, and two 
 pounds of milk and rennet ; one still better by 
 mixing three pounds of potato paste with three 
 pounds of milk and rennet ; and one better still 
 by adding three pounds of milk and rennet to 
 two pounds of potato paste. But the most 
 delicate of potato cheeses is prepared in the 
 following manner. Mix one part of potato 
 paste with three parts of milk and rennet salted. 
 Knead in the way prescribed in the foregoing 
 recipfe, and leave the mixture in the moulds for 
 three or four days, when at the bottom of each 
 mould there will be found a layer of cheese 
 about three-quarters of an inch thick. On the 
 surface of this spread with a spoon a piece of 
 fresh butter a little larger than a plover's egg, 
 and over this strew a mixture of pounded mace 
 and caraway-seeds. On this now place another 
 similar cheese, with the same ingredients spread 
 
POT 
 
 597 
 
 POT 
 
 over its surface. Continue adding cheese after 
 cheese until the basket is full. After a time, 
 which varies according to the state of the 
 weather, all these layers will be found adhering 
 together and forming one large cheese. ^ Take 
 this out, and place it on a board to dry 
 gradually. This cheese will keep for many 
 years. 
 
 POTATO CHEESE (a Saxon recipe). 
 
 Potato cheese is made thus in Saxony. Boil 
 potatoes of the large white kind, and when cool 
 peel them, and reduce them to a pulp by 
 grating or pounding in a mortar. To every seven 
 pounds of this pulp, add a pint of sour milk, and 
 salt to taste. Knead the whole together, cover 
 it up, and let it remain three or four days; at 
 the end of which time, knead it again, form it 
 into cheeses, and place the cheeses in small 
 baskets to drain. Dry them in the shade, 
 arranged in layers in pots. Potato cheeses are 
 always much improved by keeping. 
 
 POTATO CHEESECAKES. 
 
 Rub two ounces of lump sugar upon the rind 
 of half a small lemon until the yellow part is 
 taken off, then crush them to powder. Mix 
 with this three ounces of boiled potatoes, dry 
 and floury, two ounces of clarified butter, and 
 the yolks of two well-beaten eggs. Beat the 
 toiixture thoroughly, and add at the last moment 
 the white of an egg beaten to a firm froth. 
 Line the patty-pans with puff-paste, half fill 
 them with the mixture, and bake in a well- 
 heated oven. Or, take a quarter of a pound of 
 boiled potatoes, dry and floury. Bruise them 
 well, and let them cool a little, then mix with 
 them two ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs 
 and three ounces of loaf sugar which has been 
 rubbed upon half a small lemon and crushed to 
 powder. Add three ounces of fresh butter which 
 has been beaten to a cream, and three eggs. The 
 eggs should be added separately, and the mix- 
 ture should be well beaten between each ad- 
 dition. Three-parts fill the lined patty-pans, 
 and bake in a moderate oven for about twenty 
 minutes. 
 
 POTATO CHEESECAKES (another way). 
 
 (See Cheesecakes, Potato.) 
 
 POTATO CHIPS. 
 
 Potato chips are simply potatoes cut up when 
 raw into little cubes or thin shavings, then fried. 
 They, of course, cook very quickly. They 
 should be removed from the frying-cil imme- 
 diately they begin to turn colour. 
 
 POTATO CONES, OR LOAVES. 
 
 Prepare some potatoes according to the direc- 
 tions given for potato balls. Form them into 
 balls or cones, brush them over with beaten 
 egg, and place them in the pan under a roasting 
 joint, which is sufficiently cooked to drop the 
 gravy with the fat. Turn them about that they 
 may be equally browned, and allow a little of 
 the gravy to drop upon them. Send them to 
 table with the meat, but oil a separate dish. 
 Time to brown the cones, about twenty minutes. 
 
 POTATO COTTAGE PUDDING. 
 
 Take half a pound of boiled potatoes, dry and 
 floury. Beat until they are quite smooth, and 
 add a pinch of salt, the grated rind and strained 
 
 juice of a small lemon, two table-spoonfuls of 
 moist sugar, two ounces of clarified butter or 
 good beef dripping, and two well-beaten eggs. 
 Beat the mixture thoroughly, turn it into a 
 buttered dish, and bake in a well-heated oven. 
 The flavour of the pudding may be varied by the 
 addition of a few washed and dried currants, or 
 an ounce of blanched and pounded almonds, or 
 a glassful of sherry. Time to bake, three- 
 quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 POTATO CROQUETTES. * 
 
 Bake half a dozen large potatoes (regents)^ 
 When done enough, burst them open, and scoop 
 out the contents with a spoon. Beat the pulp 
 until it is quite smooth, then put it into a clean 
 saucepan with the jrolks of one or two eggs, a 
 piece of butter the size of a walnut, and a little 
 pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Beat this 
 mixture over a moderate fire, until it leaves the 
 sides of the saucepan with the spoon, then 
 spread it out on a dish and let it cool. Shape 
 it into balls ; dip these in beaten egg, then into 
 bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot fat until 
 they are equally and lightly browned. Let 
 them drain before the fire, dish them on a hot 
 napkin, and serve immediately. If liked, the 
 potato paste can be shaped into the form of 
 corks or pears, a little piece of parsley-stalk 
 being stuck into them to imitate the stalk. 
 Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for a small dish. 
 
 POTATO DUMPLING. 
 
 Take three parts of dry flourjr boiled potatoes, 
 and beat them till they are quite smooth. Put 
 with them one part of wheaten flour, a little salt, 
 and as much milk as is wanted to make a toler- 
 ably flrm paste. Pour the mixture into a buttered 
 basin, or tie it in a floured cloth, and boll until 
 it is firm and light. Serve either with brown 
 gravy, melted butter, cooked apples, stewed 
 prunes, jam, treacle, or sweet sauce. This 
 preparation of food, though not much known in 
 England, forms a daily meal of poor artisans and 
 others in North Germany, with whom meat is a 
 very unusual luxury. It is cheap, simple, and 
 wholesome. 
 POTATO FLOUR. 
 
 The farina of the potato, properly granulated 
 and dried, is frequently sold as a substitute for 
 arrowroot. It may be successfully prepared at 
 home, and will be found useful for thickening 
 soups, and for making puddings easy of diges- 
 tion for children and invalids. If kept dry it 
 will remain good for years. Peel and wash 
 pome good mealy potatoes — those which have a 
 yellow tint are uie best for the purpose. Grate 
 them upon a bread grater into a large pan of 
 cold water, stir them well together, then strain 
 the mass through' a sieve. Let the grated 
 potatoes settle until the water is quite clear. 
 Pour the water off, and add fresh, stir uj), and 
 let it settle as before; and repeat until the 
 water is quite clear, and the powder remaining 
 at the bottom of the pan is pure white and fine. 
 Spread the potato sediment upon dishes, and 
 dry it in the sun or before the flre. Turn it fre- 
 quently. Pound it in a mortar, and pass it 
 through a hair-sieve, put it into jars, and cork 
 securely. It will be quite white and flavourless. 
 Time, ten minutes to stand each time between 
 
POT 
 
 598 
 
 POT 
 
 changing: the waters. The changes to be re- 
 peated until the water that comes from it, after 
 being stirred, is quite pure. A table-spoonful 
 of potato flour mixed with two table-spoonfuls 
 of cold water, stirred into a pint of boiling soup 
 or sauce, and boiled for half a minute, will make 
 the liquid of the consistency of thick cream. 
 
 POTATO FLOUR (another way.) 
 
 This flour is obtained by grating any quantity 
 pf good mealy potatoes, and steeping them in a 
 vessel of water for six or eight hours. Change 
 the water, and stir every three hours during 
 the day. Pour off this water at night, covering 
 again with fresh water as before. In the 
 morning strain the flour into a hair sieve. 
 Have ready a clean vessel in which to stand the 
 sieve, and wash the flour through it. Allow it 
 to settle, then pour off the water, and spread the 
 sediment on dishes to be put into a slow oven. 
 The flour will dry quite white, and keep good in 
 jars, closely sealed up, for a considerable time. 
 
 POTATO FLOUR PUDDING, BAKED, 
 
 Boil the thin rind of a lemon, or any other 
 flavouring that may be preferred, in a quart of 
 milk. ]mx three table-spoonfuls of potato flour 
 to a smooth paste with a little cold milk, pour 
 the hot liquid upon this, aid stir it until it is 
 cool. Add a little sugar, from three to five 
 well-beaten eggs, and a little brandy or sherry 
 if liked. Orange marmalade stirred into the 
 pudding is by many considered an improvement. 
 The pudding may be baked before the fire in an 
 American or Dutch oven for twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 POTATO FLOUR PUDDING, STEAMED. 
 
 Pour a pint of boiling milk, nicely flavoured, 
 upon a smooth paste, made of three table-spoon- 
 fuls of potato flour mixed with a little cold 
 milk; add a little sugar and six well-beaten 
 eggs. Butter a plain round mould rather 
 thickly, and ornament it prettily with alternate 
 rows of stoned raisins and candied fruits. Pour 
 in the pudding, lay a piece of oiled paper upon 
 it, and cover closely. Place the mould upon a 
 plate turned upside down in a saucepan con- 
 taining boiling water about three inches in 
 depth, and be very careful that the water does 
 not overflow the top. Keep the water boiling 
 until the pudding is done enough. Turn it care- 
 fully upon a hot dish, and send sweet sauce to 
 table in a tureen. If a richer pudding is re- 
 quired, cream may be used instead of milk. 
 Time to steam, an hour and a half. Probable 
 coat, if made with milk, Is. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. 
 POTATO FLOUR SOUFFLf. 
 
 Eub the rind of half a lemon upon two or 
 three lumps of sugar until the yellow part is 
 taken off. Put these into a saucepan with half 
 a pint of milk or cream, two ounces of fresh 
 butter, and three table-spoonfuls of sugar. Stir 
 into the hot milk or cream three ounces of potato 
 flour that has been mixed smoothly with a little 
 cold milk, and continue to stir the whole over 
 the fire until it boils. Add the well-beaten yolks 
 of three eggs, and, separately, the whites of six 
 whisked to a firm froth. Pour the preparation 
 into the lining of a souffle dish, round which 
 
 has been fastened a band of oiled paper, to pre- 
 vent the souffle overflowing the sides whilst in 
 the oven. Bake in a well-heated oven, and be 
 careful to turn the souffle round two or three 
 times, that it may be equally baked. Serve 
 the moment it comes out of the oven, or it will 
 fall. It should have risen to twice its original 
 height. Time to bake, nearly half an hour. 
 Probable cost. Is., if made with milk. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. 
 
 POTATO FRITTERS. 
 
 Bake three or four large potatoes. Burst 
 them open, and scoop out the floury part with a 
 spoon. Beat four ounces of this flour well, and 
 mix with it a table-spoonful of thick cream, a 
 table-spoonful of sherry or brandy, two table- 
 spoonfals of sugar, a table-spoonful of lemon- 
 juice, a little flavouring, and the well-beaten 
 yolks of three and the whites of two eggs. Beat 
 the batter for several minutes until it is quite 
 smooth. Make some lard or dripping hot in the 
 frying-pan, and drop into it the mixture, a large 
 table-spoonful at a time. Two or three table- 
 spoonfuls cau be fried together, but they must 
 be kept apart. When the fritters are nicely 
 browned, dry them upon blotting-paper, serve 
 them piled high on a white napkin, and sift 
 powdered sugar thickly over them; send wine 
 sauce to table with them. Time to fry the 
 fritters, from five to seven minutes. Probable 
 cost, lOd. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 POTATO FRITTERS (other ways). 
 
 Boil and peel the potatoes, grate or mash 
 them, add four well- beaten eggs, a little 
 cream, chopped parsley, chives, salt, and spice, 
 and mix the whole well together. Drop a tea- 
 , spoonful of this paste into a pan of boiling lard 
 or butter, when it will swell into a light fritter. 
 Or, take the mealy part of potatoes roasted 
 under the ashes; beat it in a mortar with a 
 little fine salt, a table-spoonful of brandy, some 
 fresh butter and cream. Mix the whole, adding 
 gradually a well-beaten egg; shape the paste 
 into small balls, which roll in flour, fry, and 
 serve, sprinkled with powdered sugar. 
 
 POTATO GIPSY PIE. 
 
 Peel and slice thinly as many potatoes as will 
 fill a moderate-sized pie-dish. Put them into it 
 in layers, and over each layer sprinkle a little 
 salt and pepper, and a very small portion of 
 finely-minced onion. Pour half a cupful of 
 water over the whole, and place little pieces of 
 butter here and there on the top ; cover with a 
 good crust, and Bake in a moderate oven. When 
 the pie is done enough, pour a table-spoonful of 
 mushroom ketchup into it, through the hole in 
 the top, before serving it. Time to bake, ac- 
 cording to the size of the pie. Probable cost, 
 potatoes, Id. to 2d. per pound. 
 
 POTATO KLOSSE (a German dish). 
 
 Scoop the fioury part from five or six baked 
 potatoes, until six ounces of potato flour have 
 been obtained. Mix with this two ounces of 
 butter beaten to a cream, a little salt, pepper, 
 grated nutmeg, and the well-beateu yolks of 
 two eggs. Beat the mixture thoroughly, and 
 form it into small balls. Drop these in boiling 
 salt and water, and be careful to do this with 
 a metal spoon, and to dip it into boiling water 
 
POT 
 
 599 
 
 POT 
 
 each time it is used. Serve the klosae with 
 soup. Or, take the same weight of potato flour. 
 Beat it until smooth with two ounces of butter 
 which has been beaten to a cream, and add two 
 ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, one ounce 
 of grated Parmesan, a little pepper, salt, and 
 grated nutmeg, the yolks of two and the white 
 of one egg. Mould the klbsse into the desired 
 shapes, and boil them ^s above. Serve on a hot 
 dish, with fried bread-crumbs sprinkled over 
 them. Time to boil the klijsse, ten minutes. 
 Probable cost, 6d. or 8d. for this quantity. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 POTATO KLOSSE, SWEET (a German dish). 
 
 Beat four ounces of fresh butter to a cream. 
 Add to this a pinch of salt, five or six large 
 lumps of sugar which have been well rubbed 
 upon the rind of a fresh lemon and afterwards 
 crushed to powder, the well-beaten yolks of four 
 and the whites of two eggs, two table-spoonfuls 
 of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and as much 
 potato flour, or flour scooped out of freshly- 
 baked potatoes, as will make a thick firm paste. 
 Form this into balls the size of a walnut, dip 
 them in egg and bread-crumbs, and fry in hot fat 
 until they are equally and brightly browned. 
 Drain them on blotting-papper, and serve piled 
 high on a white d'oyley, with powdered sugar 
 sifted over them. Time to fry, five or six 
 minutes. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 
 POTATO MOULD. 
 
 Beat an egg thoroughly, and mix with it a 
 third of a pint of boiling cream or milk, a table- 
 spoonful of sugar, a little grated lemon-rind, 
 and as much cold boiled potato beaten till 
 smooth, or grated, as will form a stiff thick bat- 
 ter. Pour the mixture into a well-buttered 
 mould, and bake in a well-heated oven. When 
 it is nicely browned, turn it out, and serve very 
 hot. Time to bake, half an hour or more. 
 Probable cost, 6d., if made with milk. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 POTATO MUFFINS. 
 
 Scoop the inside from four large freshly-baked 
 potatoes. Beat this flour until it is quite 
 smooth, and add to it a pinch of salt, two ounces 
 of clarified butter, and as much warm water as 
 will make a thin batter. Beat three eggs, and 
 add them to the mixture, together with three 
 pints of best flour. Dissolve a tea-spoonful of 
 soda in a pint of lukewarm Water, knead this 
 with a cupful of fresh yeast into the dough, 
 and let it rise all night. The next morning bake 
 the muffins in rings upon a griddle, and when 
 one side is lightly browned, turn them upon the 
 other. When to be eaten, tear each muffin a 
 little round the edge, toast it on both sides, 
 divide, butter, and afterwards quarter it. Time 
 to bake the muffins, about twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost. Id. each. 
 
 POTATO NEST. 
 
 Mash half a pound of cold boiled potatoes, 
 and line a well-buttered pie-dish with them. 
 Cut three or four slices of ham into pieces abont 
 two inches square; put these into the pie-dish 
 on top of the potatoes, and sprinkle with a little 
 cayenne. Bake for about fifteen minutes ; then 
 take from the oven and break four eggs into the 
 
 mould, being careful to preserve the yolks whole. 
 Then return to the oven and bake until the eggs 
 are well cooked. 
 
 POTATO OMELET. 
 
 Take a large freshly-baked potato, break it 
 open, and scoop out with a spoon the inside. 
 Beat this till smooth, and mix with it a little 
 pepper and salt, a dessert-spoonful of lemon- 
 juice, and the yolks of four eggs. A minute or 
 two before the omelet is to be fried, add the 
 whites of the eggs beaten to a firm froth. Fry 
 in the usual way, and serve on a hot dish. Gar- 
 nish with parsley. Time to fry, five or six 
 minutes. Probable cost, 5d. or 6d. Sufficient 
 for two persons. 
 
 POTATO OMELET (another way). 
 (See Omelet, Potato.) 
 
 POTATO PASTY, MODERN. 
 
 In order to make this properly, a pasty-pan 
 must be procured which has a well-fitting per- 
 forated plate and a valve-pipe to screw on. 
 This can be had of almost any ironmonger, and 
 will cost from 4s. to 5s. The meat, seasoning, 
 and gravy are put into the lower part. The 
 plate is then laid on the meat, the valve-pipe 
 screwed on, and mashed potatoes spread equally 
 on the top. The pasty should be baked in a 
 moderate oven and sent to table in the same 
 
 POTATO KIOSSE. 
 
 tin in which it was baked, which should have a 
 neatly-folded napkin pinned round it. The 
 cover should not be removed until the meat is 
 to be served, and an empty dish should be 
 placed in readiness for it. If properly baked, 
 the potatoes will be nicely browned, and will be 
 flavoured like the meat. The contents of this 
 pie may, of, course, be varied indefinitely. 
 Mutton or veal cutlets, pork chops, chickens or 
 rabbits out into neat joints, and fish of various 
 kinds may all be used, and will all be found 
 excellent. The meat should be neatly trimmed, 
 and nicely seasoned, and a small qu'antity of 
 gravy poured over it. The mashed potatoes 
 should form a crust at least three inches 
 thick: Two pounds of meat and three pounds 
 of potatoes will make a moderate-sized pasty. 
 Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 POTATO PATTIES. 
 
 Take as many large, well-shaped potatoes as 
 it is intended there should be patties, wash 
 them well, and bake them. Take them out be- 
 fore they are quite done enough, so that the 
 skin may not be injured, and carefully cut ofi: 
 the top, and scoop out the inside with a spoon. 
 Mix with the floury part two or three spoon- 
 fuls of thick cream, a little piece of butter, and 
 
POT 
 
 600 
 
 POT 
 
 a pinch of salt, together with BUgar, lemon or 
 cinnamon flavouring, and the yolks and whites 
 of two or three eggs beaten and added 
 ueparately. Put this mixture into the' hollow 
 potatoes, place them upright side by side in a 
 buttered dish, and bake them in a hot oven. 
 If liked, savoury instead of sweet potato patties 
 can be made by mixing with the potato flour a 
 little pounded veal and ham, and cream, salt, 
 pepper, lemon-peel, grated nutmeg, and mush- 
 room ketchup added in suitable proportions. 
 Time to bake, twelve to fifteen minutes. 
 
 POTATO PIE. 
 
 It is a good plan to have made a tin lid per- 
 forated with holes, and with a handle at each 
 end, to fit an ordinary-sized pie-dish, on purpose 
 for potato pies. This lid should fit down at 
 least an inch below the level of the dish, and be- 
 fore using it the first time it should be washed in 
 boiling soda and water, as new tin is sometimes 
 poisonous. Having obtained this lid, cut the 
 cold meat into neat slices, sprinkle over them a 
 little pepper and salt, two finely-minced onions, 
 half a cupful of gravy — or failing this, water— 
 and two or three lumps of butter or good beef 
 dripping. Put on the tin lid, and pile upon it 
 as many cold boiled potatoes, mashed with milk, 
 as will fill the space to the top of the dish. 
 Bake in a well-heated oven. Send the pie to 
 table in the dish in which it was baked, with 
 a hot napkin pinned round. The top should be 
 brightly browned. Time to bake, one hour. 
 Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 POTATO PIE (another way.) 
 
 Take half a dozen boiled potatoes, dry and 
 floury, mash them smoothly with three ounces of 
 butter, the beaten yolk of an egg, and a little 
 pepper and salt. Cut a pound of cold roast beef 
 into neat slices free from skin and gristle. If 
 the meat is rather underdone, so much the 
 better. Spread a layer of the potato at the bot- 
 tom of a pie-dish, put the slices qf meat upon it, 
 season with pepper and salt, and pour over 
 the meat a tea-cupful of gravy made by stewing 
 the bones and trimmings, and a table-spoonfiu 
 of mushroom ketchup. Cover with potato, and 
 ornament the top of the pie with a fork. Bake 
 in a moderate oven, and serve very hot. Time 
 to bake the pie, half an hour. Probable cost, 
 about Is. 6d. Sufficient for three persons. 
 
 POTATO PIE (another way). 
 
 Butter a shallow pie-dish rather thickly. 
 Line the edges with a good crust, and then fill 
 the pie with mashed potatoes seasoned with 
 pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Lay over them- 
 some marrow, together with small lumps of 
 butter, hard-boiled eggs, blanched almonds, 
 sliced dates, sliced lemon and candied peel. 
 Cover the dish witlT pastry, and bake the pie in 
 a well-heated oven for half an hour or more, ac- 
 cording to the size "of the pie. Probable cost. 
 Is. or Is. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 POTATO PIE (another way). 
 
 Peel and slice some potatoes thin, and put 
 them into a pie-dish. Between each layer of 
 potatoes place some sliced onion — to every 
 pound of potatoes allow, say, three-quarters of 
 an ounce of onion — add pepper and salt, put in 
 
 a little water, and cut about two ounces of 
 dripping or suet into little bits; lay these on 
 the top, cover the pie close with common paste, 
 and let it bake for about an hour and a half. The 
 taste of the pie will be improved by the addition 
 of a few slices of bacon. Time, about one hour 
 and a half to bake. 
 
 POTATO PIE, "TEN TO ONE." 
 
 This pie is a great favourite in country places 
 in the North of England. Line the 6dges of a 
 deep pie-dish with good crust. Fill it either 
 with beef steak or slices of mutton nicely 
 seasoned, and slices of raw potato the third of 
 an inch thick, and allow eight or ten slices of 
 potato to one piece of meat. Pour a little gravy 
 or water over the whole, cover with a good crust, 
 and bake in a moderate oven. Serve very hot. 
 The pie must be gently baked, or the pastry 
 will be burnt before the potatoes are sufficiently 
 cooked. Time to bake, one hour and a, half or 
 more, according to the size of the pie. 
 
 POTATO PIE, WITH SAUSAGE-MEAT. 
 
 Line the edges of a pie-dish with good crust, 
 and butter the inside rather thickly. Mash five 
 or six mealy potatoes with a little pepper and 
 salt, a well-beaten egg, and as much milk as will 
 make a thick batter. Mix with this an equal 
 quantity of nicely-seasoned sausage-meat, "and 
 fill the pie with the preparation. Cover with a 
 
 food crust, and bake in a well-heated oven, 
 end good brown gravy to table with the pie. 
 Time to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. 
 Probable cost, 2s. for a moderate-sized pie. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 POTATO POT. 
 
 Take an earthen jar with a closely-fitting lid, 
 put into it, till it is a quarter full, beef or mut- 
 ton, cut into convenient-sized pieces. Season 
 with salt and pepper. Cut one or two onions 
 into thin slices — the number being regulated by 
 taste. Lay these over the meat, and fill the 
 dish with peeled potatoes of uniform size. 
 Sprinkle a little salt and flour over these, pour 
 in a cupful of water, or, better still, stock, put 
 the lid on the jar, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 When the potatoes are done enough, lift them 
 carefully out with a spoon so as not to bVeak 
 them. Place them round a dish, put the meat 
 into the centre, pour the gravy over all, and 
 serve very hot. Underdone cold meat may be 
 used for this recipe, though, of course, fresh 
 meat will be nicer. Time, according to the size 
 and quality of the potatoes. If more convenient, 
 the jar can be closely covered, set in a saucepan 
 of water, and stewed for about an hour after the 
 water reaches the point of boiling. Plenty of 
 time should be allowed, as the potatoes are 
 better cooked slowly. Probable cost of potatoes. 
 Id. or l^d. per pound. Sufficient, a pie with two 
 pounds of potatoes for three or four persons. 
 
 POTATO PUDDING. 
 
 Mash a pound of boiled potatoes, dry and 
 floury, and make a batter by mixing with them 
 an ounce of clarified butter, three well-beaten 
 eggs, and two table-spoonfuls of milk, together 
 with a little salt and pepper. Butter a baking- 
 dish rather thickly, pour half the batter into it, 
 and lay upon this three-quarters of a pound of 
 luiderdone beef or mutton, cut into neat slices. 
 
POT 
 
 601 
 
 POT 
 
 and quite free from fat, skin, and gristle. Pour 
 the rest of the batter over the meat, and hake 
 the pudding in a moderate oven. Serve very- 
 hot, and send good hrown sauce to table in a 
 tureen. Time to bake, one hour. Probable 
 cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 POTATO PUDDING (another way). 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of freshly-boiled 
 potatoes, dry and floury. Beat them till quite 
 smooth, then mix with them half a pound of 
 butter, molted, a quarter of a pound of loaf 
 sugar, and a quarter of a pound of picked 
 and dried currants. When these ingredients 
 are thoroughly mixed, add six well-beaten eggs 
 and a glass of wine, or a table-spoonful of 
 brandy. Pour the mixture into a buttered dish 
 or mould, and either bake or boil it. The baked 
 pudding is the better of the two. Time, half 
 an hour or more. Probable cost. Is. 6d., ex- 
 clusive of the brandy. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. 
 
 POTATO PUDDING (another way). 
 
 Mash three pounds of boiled potatoes, dry and 
 floury. Mix with them four ounces of finely- 
 shredded beef suet, four ounces of grated cheese, 
 the flesh of a herring torn into flakes with two 
 forks, and a quarter of a pint of milk. Pour the 
 mixture into a buttered dish, and bake in a well- 
 heated oven for half an hour. Probable cost. 
 Is, Sufficient for five or six persons, 
 
 POTATO PUDDING (another way). 
 
 Take a few potatoes, boil them well, and mash 
 them fine with a little milk; then sweeten to 
 taste, and press into a pie-dish. Beat one egg, 
 and lay it on the top of the jjudding with a little 
 grated nutmeg. Bake for half an hour. 
 
 POTATO PUDDING, BAKED. 
 
 Eub a pound of boiled potatoes through a 
 wire sieve. Mix with them a pinch of salt, two 
 ounces of butter, melted, two egg yolks, sugar 
 to taste, the juice and grated rind of a lemon, 
 and last the whisked whites of eggs. Bake in a 
 buttered dish for half an hour. Serve hot. 
 
 POTATO PUDDING, COTTAGE. 
 
 {See Cottage Potato Podding.) 
 
 POTATO PUDDINGS (Count Rumford's recipes). 
 
 1. Mix together twelve ounces of boiled 
 mashed potatoes, one ounce of suet, one ounce 
 (a sixteenth of a pint) of milk, and one ounce 
 of cheese. The suet and cheese to be melted, 
 or chopped as fine as possible. Add as much 
 hot water as will convert the whole into a 
 tolerably stiff mass; then bake it for a short 
 time in an earthen dish, either in front of the 
 fire or in an oven. 2. Twelve ounces of mashed 
 potatoes, one ounce of milk, and one ounce 
 of suet, with salt. Mix and bake as before. 
 3. Twelve ounces of mashed potatoes, one ounce 
 of red herring chopped fine or bruised in a 
 mortar. Mix and bake. 4. Twelve ounces of 
 mashed potatoes, one ounce of suet, and one 
 ounce of hung beef grated or chopped fine. 
 Mix and bake. 
 
 POTATO puddingI sweet. 
 
 Bake half a dozen large potatoes, and when 
 they are done enough break them open and 
 scoop out the contents with a, spoon. Beat 
 
 them lightly, and with a quarter of a pound of 
 the potato flour put three ounces of clarified 
 butter, half a tea-spoonful of finely-minced 
 lemon-rind, a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice, a 
 pinch of salt, three table-spoonfuls of powdered 
 sugar, and three table-spoonfuls of milk or 
 cream. Beat the pudding for five or six 
 minutes, then add separately the yolks and welL 
 whisked whites of three eggs. Butter a plain 
 mould, ornament it with dried fruit or slices of 
 candied peel, pour in the pudding, and bake in 
 a well-heated oven, or steam the pudding if 
 preferred. Turn it out before serving, sift 
 sugar thickly over it, and garnish the dish with 
 jam. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour; 
 to steam, one hour. Probable cost. Is. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 POTATO PUDDING, WITH HAM, ETC. (a German 
 recipe). 
 Take some large potatoes, roast them, break 
 them and scoop out the inside; to two quarts 
 of potato add six ounces of butter and the yolka 
 of four eggs ; work through a sieve, season with 
 pepper and salt. Butter well a mould and 
 sprinkle it with bread-crumbs or raspings; fill 
 it about two inches deep with potato puree; 
 then put a thin layer of ham, cooked veal, or 
 anything else preferred, which cover with po- 
 tato ; then put a layer of meat again, and so on 
 till the mould is filled. Bake the pudding 
 for an hour, loosen the sides gently with 
 a knife, and turn out carefully that it may not 
 break. 
 
 POTATO PUFFS. 
 
 Put three table-spoonfuls of new milk into a 
 clean saucepan with a couple of ounces of fresh 
 butter, the thin, finely-minced rind of a small 
 lemon, and two table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar. 
 Let the milk heaf very gently until the butter 
 is dissolved. Add gradually three ounces of 
 boiled potatoes, dry and fioury, and beat the 
 mixture until it is light and perfectly free from 
 lumps. Stir in the well-beaten yolks of three 
 eggs, and just before the puffs are to be baked 
 the whites whisked to a firm froth. Butter 
 some small patty-pans. Put the mixture into 
 them, and bake in a well-heated oven. Sift 
 powdered sugar thickly over them, and serve 
 very hot. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for half a dozen 
 puffs. 
 
 POTATO PUFFS (another way). 
 
 Bake two large potatoes. When done enough, 
 burst them open and scoop out the contents with 
 a spoon. Beat them until quite smooth, and 
 mix with them two ounces of flour, a pinch of 
 salt, a little grated nutmeg, a heaped table- 
 spoonful of sugar, half an ounce of butter, and 
 a well-beaten egg. Divide the mixture into 
 small cakes, fry them in hot fat till they are 
 nicely browned, drain them on blotting-paper, 
 and serve very hot. Send white sauce to table 
 with them. Time to fry, four or five minutes. 
 Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for one person. 
 
 POTATO, PUREE OF. 
 
 Peel and wash a pound of good regents. Boil 
 and drain them, and beat them up with a fork. 
 Stir in with them a quarter of a pint of good 
 broth or thick cream, and pass them through a 
 
POT 
 
 602 
 
 POT 
 
 wire sieve. Put the puree into a saucepan witli 
 two ounces of butter and a little pepper, and 
 stir it over a gentle fire until it is quite hot. 
 Pour it into the centre of a hot dish, and ar- 
 range delicately-broiled cutlets — mutton, pork, 
 or lamb — in a circle round it. Time, five or 
 six minutes to heat the puree. Probable cost, 
 8d., if mixed with cr°am. Sufficient for a 
 small dish. 
 
 POTATO PUREE (another way). 
 
 Take some potatoes well boiled and well 
 irained, pound them in a mortar, moisten with 
 jood broth and Bal\, then rub them through a 
 sieve; when done, put the puree to warm in a 
 stewpan, and add two ounces of fresh butter. 
 The puree must be thinner than mash. Put 
 fried bread round the puree. Sometimes cream 
 may be used, instead of broth ; but it is not so 
 wholesome, besides being much dearer. 
 
 POTATO RIBBONS. 
 
 Wash and peel half a dozen large kidney 
 potatoes, and let them lie in cold water for a 
 few minutes. Cut them into ribbons, round and 
 round, like an apple, and keep the strips as 
 nearly as possible of one width. They must not 
 be too thin or they will break. Fry them in 
 plenty of hot fat until they are lightly browned. 
 Drain them on a wire sieve, and sprinkle a little 
 pepper and salt over them. Serve on a hot dish. 
 Time to fry, eight or ten minutes. Probable 
 cost of potatoes. Id. or 2d. per pound. Sufficient 
 for three or four persons. 
 
 POTATO RICE. 
 
 Boil two pounds of potatoes — regents are best 
 for the purpose — mash them with two ounces of 
 butter and four table-spoonfuls of boiling milk, 
 and season with pepper and salt. Put them into 
 a large colander, and press them through this 
 on to a hot dish, and whilst doing so, shake the 
 colander every minute or two, that the potatoes 
 may fall lightly like rice. Serve very hot, with 
 broiled steak or sausages. Time, abotit three- 
 quarters of an hour. Probable cost of potatoes. 
 Id. or l^d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 POTATO RISSOLES. 
 
 Take two pounds of mashed potatoes, and mix 
 with them two table-spoonfuls of chopped pais- 
 ley. Make them up into balls the size of a 
 small apple, dip them in egg and bread-crumbs, 
 and fry in plenty of hot fat till they are equally 
 and brightly browned. Drain them on blot- 
 ting-paper, and serve them piled high on a white 
 serviette. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable 
 cost of potatoes. Id. or l^"d. per pound. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 
 POTATO ROLLS. 
 
 Take four large boiled potatoes, dry and 
 floury. Mash them till they are smooth, and 
 while they are still hot, mix with them a little 
 salt, a table-spoonful of dlarified butter, and 
 half a pint of hot milk. When the mixture is 
 lukewarm, add half a tea-spoonful of yeast, and 
 as much flour as will make a firm dough. Knead 
 it well, cover with a cloth, and set it near the 
 fire to rise. When it is sufficiently light, mould 
 it into rolls, place these a little apart from each 
 other on buttered tins, let them rise again for 
 
 about ten minutes, and bake in a well-heated 
 oven till they are firm, but they must not be 
 too hard. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost. Id. each. Sufficient, allow one 
 for each person. 
 
 POTATO SALAD. 
 
 Potato salad may be made all the year round 
 with both new and old potatoes, and when 
 plainly boiled is an agreeable accompaniment 
 to cold meat. Cold potatoes that are left may 
 be served up in this way, and will form an 
 appetising dish. If the potatoes are boiled on 
 purpose for the salad, small ones should be 
 picked out, as they often prove wasteful when 
 boiled with large ones. They should be boiled 
 in their jackets, and"should be peeled and sliced 
 whilst warm. Make the salad two or three hours 
 before it is wanted. Cut the potatoes into 
 slices the third of an inch thick. Put these in 
 layers into the salad bowl, and sprinkle over 
 each layer a little pepper and salt, finely-chop- 
 ped parsley, and, if liked, minced chives or shsil- 
 lot. Add oil and vinegar in the proportion of 
 two table-spoonfuls of vinegar to three of oil, 
 and stir them well into the salad. Garnish with 
 sliced beetroot, pickled gherkins, olives, or 
 herbs, or boil an egg hard, mince the yolk and 
 the white separately, and place them in little 
 heaps round the salad. A chopped bloater or 
 two or three sardines finely minced may be 
 stirred in with a potato salad as an occasional 
 change, and tarragon vinegar may be substi- 
 tuted for plain vinegar. 
 
 POTATO SALAD (a French recipe). 
 
 Cut ten or twelve cold boiled potatoes into 
 slices from a quarter of an inch to half an 
 inch thick; put these into a salad bowl with 
 four table - spoonfuls of tarragon or plain 
 vinegar, six table-spoonfuls of best salad-oil, 
 one table-spoonful of minced parsley, and pep- 
 per and salt to taste. Stir well, that all the 
 ingredients may be thoroughly mixed. Potato 
 salad should be made two or three hours before 
 it is required for the table. Anchovies, olives, 
 or any pickles may be added to it, and also bits 
 of cold beef, chicken, or turkey, if desired. It 
 is excellent, however, without these. 
 
 POTATO SALAD (a German recipe). 
 
 Cut the potatoes into slices the third of 
 an inch thick, and sprinkle a little pepper 
 and salt amongst them. Cut two or three 
 rashers of bacon into very small pieces, and fry 
 these over a gentle fire until they are lightly 
 browned. Pour into the pan with them half a 
 cupful of water and half a cupful of vinegar, let 
 the bacon simmer in this for a minute, and pour 
 the sauce over the potatoes. If after soaking 
 a little time the salad looks dry, add half a 
 cupful of milk. Time, five or six minutes to 
 make the salad dressing. Probable cost of 
 potatoes. Id. to IJd. per pound. 
 
 POTATO SANDWICHES. 
 
 Cut aipound of cold roast beef into slices, and 
 fry these gently in hot fat for two or three 
 minutes. Take them up, drain them, and spread 
 over them on both sides a layer of mashed pots^ 
 toes a quarter of an inch thick. Dip them into 
 egg and bread-crumb, and fry in hot fat till 
 they are lightly browned. Serve pled on a 
 
POT 
 
 603 
 
 POT 
 
 white napkin. Time to fry the sandwiches, five 
 or six minutes. 
 
 POTATO SNOW. 
 
 Choose fine white potatoes free from spots. 
 Wash them well, put them in their jackets into 
 a saucepan, and barely cover them with cold 
 water. Let them boil gently until they begin 
 to crack, then pour the water from them, let them 
 drain, and then dry by the side of the fire until 
 they fall to pieces. Take away the skins, and 
 lay before the fire the hot dish on which the 
 potatoes are to be served. Rub the potatoes 
 through a hot wire sieve, so that they snail fall 
 lightly upon the dish, and on no account dis- 
 turb them after they have fallen. Serve very 
 hot. Time, thirty to forty minutes to boil the 
 potatoes. Probable cost. Id. or IJd. per pound. 
 Sufficient, three potatoes for one person. 
 
 POTATO SOUFFLE. 
 
 Bake six or eight large potatoes, and when 
 they are done enough burst the skins, and scoop 
 out the floury part with a spoon. Take a quar- 
 ter of a pound of this flour and mix with it two 
 table-spoonfuls of finely-sifted sugar, an ounce 
 of butter, half a pint of boiling cream pleasantly 
 flavoured with lemon-rind or cinuamou. Beat 
 the mixture until it is quite smooth, then add 
 the well-beaten yolks of four eggs, and, 
 separately, the whites of six eggs whisked to 
 a flrm froth. Pour the souffle into a buttered 
 souffle-tin, round the top of which has been 
 secured a broad band of oiled paper to prevent 
 the souffle overflowing its sides, and bake in a 
 well-heated oven. Serve the souffle the moment 
 it is taken from the oven. If a proper souffle- 
 tin is not at hand, a deep pie-dish may be sub- 
 stituted for it. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. 
 
 POTATO SOUP. 
 
 Wash a dozen or more large potatoes (regents 
 are to be preferred), in lukewarm water, and 
 scrub them until quite clean with a soft brush. 
 Drain them, and put them into a saucepan, 
 barely cover them with cold water, and let them 
 simmer gently until they are done enough. 
 Pour off the water, and let them dry. Dissolve 
 an ounce and a half of butter in a saucepan, and 
 put in with it two moderate-sized onions finely 
 minced, and a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, 
 and let the onions steam gently until tender. 
 Peel the potatoes, and rub them through a 
 colander until quite smooth. Put them into 
 the pan with the onions, etc., and stir all well 
 together. Add a bay-leaf to the mixture, then 
 pour in as much boiling water as will make a 
 thick batter, and afterwards add as much boil- 
 ing milk as will make the soup of the consis- 
 tency of thick cream. Let it boil, put in pepper 
 and salt to taste, and also a little grated nut- 
 meg, and serve with toasted sippets in the dish. 
 The soup will be better if white stock be used 
 instead of water. Time, one hour. Probable 
 cost, 4d. per quart. Suificient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 POTATO SOUP (another way). 
 
 Wash and peel ten or twelve large potatoes. 
 Cut them into slices, and put them into a stew- 
 pan with one large onion sliced, four ounces of 
 butter, a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. 
 
 Let them steam for two or three minutes, then 
 pour over them two quarts of white stock, or 
 the liquid in which meat has been boiled, and 
 let the whole simmer gently until the potatoes 
 are soft. Press them with a wooden spoon 
 through a fine sieve, return the puree to the 
 soup, and stir it over the fire until it is quite 
 hot. Add half a pint of cream or new milk, 
 and serve; sending fried crusts to table on a 
 separate dish. Time, an hour and a half. Prob- 
 able cost, 5d. per quart, exclusive of the stock, 
 if made with milk. Sufficient for eight or ten 
 persons. 
 
 POTATO SOUP (another way). 
 
 Wash and peel a dozen large potatoes, and 
 put them into a stewpan with two quarts of the 
 liquor in which meat has been boiled, one onion, 
 and one carrot. Let all boil gently together for 
 an hour, or until the potatoes are quite soft, 
 then rub the whole through a fine sieve, and put 
 the soup back into the stewpan. Mix three 
 table-spoonfuls of flour to a smooth paste with 
 half a, pint of cold water. Mix a little of the 
 boiling liquid with this, and afterwards turn the 
 whole into the soup, and stir until the flour 
 unites with the potatoes. Add pepper and salt 
 if required, boil a few minutes longer, and serve 
 very hot. Half a pint of milk or cream can be 
 added or not. Send fried crusts to table on a 
 separate dish. Time to boil the soup with the 
 fiour, about a quarter of an hour. Probable 
 cost, 3d. per quart. Sufficient for eight or ten 
 persons. 
 
 POTATO SOUP (another way). 
 
 Wash and peel a dozen large sound potatoes. 
 Cut them into thin slices, dredge them well with 
 flour, and put them into a stewpan with two 
 ounces of fresh butter, a handful of parsley, one 
 large onion, and a little pepper and salt. Barely 
 cover them with cold water, and let them steam 
 gently until soft. Press them through a sieve, 
 and mix with the puree two quarts of nicely- 
 flavoured stock. Boil a few minutes longer, and 
 serve. Time, an hour and a half. Probable 
 cost, exclusive of the stock, 3d. per quart. 
 Sufficient for seven or eight persons. 
 
 POTATO SOUP (another way). 
 
 Take two pounds of peeled potatoes, a stick 
 of celery, and the white part of two leeks, cook 
 with a small piece of fciutter in a saucepan with 
 the lid on for ten minutes, add salt and a quart 
 of water, and boil half an hour. Press the 
 whole through a sieve, afterwards boil it for six 
 or eight minutes, and serve very hot, mixed with 
 half a pint of boiling milk or cream. Time, 
 three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, ex- 
 clusive of the stock, 4d. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. 
 
 POTATO SOUP (another way). 
 
 Boil some potatoes in stock ; mash them, and 
 mix them with forcemeat made of chopped meat, 
 bacon, and spice, herbs, and eggs. Make balls 
 of these ingredients, roll them to the size of an 
 egg, and either warm or fry them in the soup. 
 
 POTATO SOUP (4 la Crime). 
 
 Take about twenty large - sized potatoes ; 
 cleanse, peel, wash, and cut them in pieces. 
 Put them into a stewpan with one large ouiou 
 
POT 
 
 604 
 
 POT 
 
 and one head of celery also sliced up. Add four 
 ounces of fresh butter, a little pepper, salt, and 
 grated nutmeg. Set the pan on a slow fire, let 
 the contents simmer, stirring occasionally, till 
 they are nearly reduced to a sort of puree. 
 Add three pints of good white consomme, then 
 let the potatoes boil gently by the side of a 
 moderate fire for half an hour, pass them 
 through the tamis, and after having removed 
 the puree into a soup-pot, add, if required, a 
 little more consomme to it, and set it on the 
 fire to boil gently by the side of the stove, in 
 order to clarify it in the usual way required for 
 other purees of vegetables. Just before serving 
 add a pint of boiling cream, a pat of fresh 
 butter, and a little pounded sugar. 
 
 POTATO STRAWS. 
 
 Wash and peel some potatoes, cut them into 
 small shreds, about the thickness of matches, 
 wash well and dry on a cloth; throw theiii, a 
 few at a time, into plenty of clear boiling fat; 
 shake the potatoes about in the fat until they 
 are crisp, and of a deep yellow colour. Drain on 
 a cloth, sprinkle slightly with salt, and serve 
 on a folded napkin. 
 
 POTATO STUFFING, FOR GOOSE AND SUCK- 
 ING PIG. 
 
 Wash and peel three or four large sound 
 potatoes, and cut them into very small pieces. 
 Put them into a stewpan with two ounces of 
 butter, a table-spoonful of finely-shredded pars- 
 ley, a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, 
 and, if liked, a finely-minced onion. Cover 
 closely, and let them steam over a gentle fire 
 until they are three-parts cooked; they must 
 not be so soft that they will fall to pieces. 
 Shake the saucepan now and then to keep them 
 from burning at the bottom of the pan. Mince 
 the liver of the pig or goose, and put it with the 
 potatoes. Stir the mixture over the fire for a 
 minute or two, and it will be ready for use. If 
 liked, one or two cold fried sausages may be 
 freed from skin, cut up small, and used instead 
 of the liver. Time to steam the potatoes, about 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufiicient 
 for one small pig. 
 
 POTATO STUFFING FOR SUCKING PIG. 
 
 (See Pig, Sucking, Stuffing op Potatoes 
 
 FOB.) 
 
 POTATO, SWEET. 
 
 After the introduction of the potato into this 
 country it used to be confounded with this 
 plant, which it resembled, and from which it 
 received its name.' The sweet potato was 
 originally a Malayan plant, and was brought 
 into England long before the introduction of the 
 potato. It was considered a great delicacy, 
 and was made into a confection. It is still cul- 
 tivated to a certain extent in Spain, the South 
 of France, and America. It may be employed 
 as food by way of a substitute for the potato. 
 
 POTATO TURNOVERS. 
 
 Mince finely the remains of cold roast meat — 
 beef, mutton, veal, or ham. Take away the 
 pieces of skin and gristle, season the mince 
 highly with salt and cayenne, and add a small 
 proportion of chopped pickles. Mash some cold 
 boiled potatoes, and make them into a paste 
 
 with a little flour and one or two beaten eggs. 
 Dredge a little flour over this, and roll it out. 
 Cut it into rounds the size of a saucer. Put a 
 little of the mince upon one half of one of these 
 rounds, and fold the other half over it like a 
 turnover. Pinch the edges neatly, and make up 
 the rest of the pastry in the same way. Fry the 
 turnovers in hot fat till they are brightly 
 browned. Drain them, and serve very hot. 
 Time to fry, four or -five minutes. Probable 
 cost, 2d. each. 
 
 POTATO WINE. 
 
 Wine of good quality may be made from 
 frosted potatoes, if not so much frosted as to 
 have become soft and waterish. The potatoes 
 must be crushed or bruised; a wooden mallet 
 answers the purpose. If a plank of wood is 
 made hollow, in the manner of a shallow bowl, 
 they may be bruised with a mallet or put into 
 a cider-press. Boil ten gallons of water with 
 half a pound of hops and half a pound of com- 
 mon white ginger. This water, after having 
 boiled for about half an hour, must' be poured 
 upon the bruised potatoes, into a tub or vessel 
 suited to the quantity to be made. After stand- 
 ing in this mixed state for three days, yeast 
 must be added to ferment the liquor. When 
 the fermentation has subsided, the liquor must 
 be drawn off as pure as possible into a cask, 
 adding half a pound of raw sugar for every 
 gallon. After it has remained in the cask for 
 three months it will be ready for use. 
 
 POTATO YEAST. 
 
 Boil some good mealy potatoes until they are 
 quite soft. Peel and weigh them, and while 
 they are hot mash them till they are smooth. 
 Mix them quickly with as much boiling water 
 as will make the mash of the consistency of 
 good beer yeast. Rub the puree through a 
 sieve, and add for every pound of potatoes either 
 two ounces of treacle or an ounce of brown sugar 
 or honey. Boil the mixture until it is as thick 
 as batter, and stir into it whilst it is warm two 
 large spoonfuls of yeast for every pound of 
 potatoes. Cover with a cloth, and keep in a 
 warm place till it has done fermenting. In 
 twenty-four hours it will be ready for use. It 
 will be necessary to use twice as much of this 
 yeast as of beer yeast to make bread. Sufficient, 
 a pound of potatoes will make a quart of yeast. 
 
 POTATOES (& la Baregoule). 
 
 Peel some potatoes, and boil them in a little 
 water with some oil, pepper, salt, onions, and 
 savoury herbs. Boil them slowly, so that they 
 may absorb the liquor. When they are done, 
 brown them in a stewpan in a little oil, and 
 serve them to be eaten with oil, vinegar, pepper, 
 and salt. 
 POTATOES (ei la Cr^me). 
 
 Boil some potatoes of a firm kind in the usual 
 way. Take a small, sharp, thin-bladed knife 
 and cut them into thin slices. Put a. pint of 
 these into a stewpan with a tea-spoonful of salt, 
 an ounce of butter, a little pepper, salt, and 
 grated nutmeg, and a table-spoonful of lemon- 
 juice. Pour a quarter of a pint of cream over 
 the top, cover the saucepan closely, and shake 
 it over the fire for eight or ten minutes. Place 
 the potatoes on a hot dish, and be very careful 
 
POT 
 
 605 
 
 POT 
 
 not to break the slices. Cold potatoes which are 
 left from dinner may, if firm, be dressed in this 
 way for breakfast. If cream is not at hand, 
 milk slightly thickened with flour and butter 
 may be substituted for it. Probable cost, 8d. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 POTATOES (a la Duchesse). 
 
 This, it has been said, is " the acme of 
 delicacy in the cooking of potatoes." Prepare 
 some potato paste as for croquettes {See Potato 
 Cboqtjettbs). When this is cold, mould it with 
 a very small quantity of flour into oblong or 
 round cakes. Fry these in clarifled fat, first 
 on one side then on the other, and take them 
 out the instant they have acquired a delicate 
 golden-brown colour. With moderate care, 
 potatoes thus cooked are delicious. 
 
 POTATOES (k la Lyonnaise). 
 
 First boil and then peel and slice some 
 potatoes. Brown the slices in the frying-pan 
 with a little butter or dripping, and serve them 
 with an onion sauce (see Sotjbise Sauce) poured 
 over, with the addition of a little vinegar or 
 lemon-juice. 
 
 POTATOES (k la Maftre d'Hotel). 
 
 Boil or steam a, dozen kidney potatoes in the 
 usual way, and cut them into slices a quarter 
 of an inch thick. Put them into a saucepan 
 with two 01' three table-spoonfuls of white sauce 
 or gravy, two table-spoonfuls of chopped pars- 
 ley, four ounces of butter, and a little pepper 
 and salt. Shake the saucepan over the fire 
 until the potatoes are covered with the sauce 
 and quite hot, then squeeze over them the juice 
 of a large fresh lemon, and serve. Time, ten 
 minutes to heat the sliced potatoes. Probable 
 cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 POTATOES (4 la Mattre d'H6tel), another way. 
 
 Wash the potatoes, and boil them in their 
 jackets in salt and water. When they are 
 done, let them cool, then turn them in the shape 
 of large corks, and cut them into slices about 
 as thick as a shilling — if the slices are too thin 
 they will break in the sauce. Make a. butter 
 sauce, mix with it a little chopped parsley, 
 pepper, salt, a little glaze, and the juice of a 
 lemon if acid is required. Take care that the 
 sauce is neither curdled nor too thick, and 
 pour it gently over the potatoes after they are 
 dished. 
 POTATOES (a la Provenyale). 
 
 Put a small piece of butter or three table- 
 spoonfuls of oil into a stewpan, with three 
 beads of garlic, the rind of a quarter of a lemon, 
 and some parsley, all chopped very fine ; add a 
 little grated nutmeg, pepper and salt. Peel 
 some small potatoes, and let them stew in this 
 mixture until tender. If large potatoes are 
 used they must be cut up into pieces. Add the 
 juice of a lemon before serving. 
 
 POTATOES AND EGGS. 
 
 (See Egss and Potatoes.) 
 POTATOES AU LARD (a French recipe). 
 
 Cut some bacon into small pieces, put these in 
 a stewpan with a bit of butter, and let them 
 brown. When the bacon is three-parts done, 
 throw in a little flour, add salt, pepper, parsley, 
 
 a bunch of sweet herbs, and a bay-leaf. Moisten 
 with some stock. When these ingredients have 
 boiled a few minutes, put in the potatoes half 
 done, peeled, and cut into pieces. Skim clean, 
 and serve. 
 
 POTATOES, BAKED. 
 
 Choose large potatoes of uniform size. Wash 
 them well in lukewarm water, and scrub the 
 skins with a soft brush. Put them in the oven, 
 or in a Dutch oven, and bake until done enough. 
 Do not let them remain in the oven after they 
 are cooked, or they will become hard and 
 shrivelled. Serve, neatly folded, on a hot nap- 
 kin, and send pats of butter to table with them. 
 Some cooks cut a little slice from the top of 
 the potato after it is baked, mix with the pulp 
 a pinch of minced shallot, a little pepper and 
 salt, and a quarter of an ounce of butter, then 
 put on the lid, and serve hot. Time to bake, 
 two hours if of a good size. Probable cost of 
 potatoes. Id. or IJd. per pound. ,Suffioient, 
 allow two for each person. 
 
 POTATOES, BEEF STEAK AND FRIED. 
 
 (See Beef Steak and Fbied Potatoes.) 
 
 POTATOES, BEEF STEAKS WITH (French fashion). 
 Take some thin slices of rump of beef, flatten 
 them, and season with a little salt, pepper, etc. 
 Dip these slices into a little butter, that the 
 gravy may not drop out whilst broiling. Have 
 some parsley chopped very fine and mixed with 
 butter, salt, pepper, lemon, etc. When the 
 beef steaks are done, put under them the above 
 ingredients, and all around fried potatoes of 
 a fine brown colour. Glaze the beef steaks ; 
 you may serve them with different sauces, as 
 mushroom, oyster, and tomato. 
 
 POTATOES, BEIGNETS OF. 
 
 Take some potatoes; bake them, take off 
 their jackets and pound them with a little salt, 
 cream, a little butter, and a glass of brandy 
 till the paste is so thick as to be easily formed 
 into balls. A beaten egg should be added whilst 
 pounding. Let the paste cool. Form it into 
 balls, brush these over with egg, fry them in very 
 hot fat, and serve with sugar sifted over them. 
 
 POTATOES, BOILED. 
 
 When about to boil potatoes, pick them out 
 as nearly as possible of one size, or the large 
 ones will be hard when the small ones are re- 
 duced to pulp. If this cannot easily be done, 
 cut them to one size. Wash them well, remove 
 the specks or eyes, and pare them as thinly as 
 possible, not only to avoid waste, but because 
 the best part of the potato is near the skin. As 
 they are pared, throw them into cold water, 
 and let them remain in it until wanted. An 
 iron saucepan is preferable to a tin one for 
 cooking them, as it prevents them boiling so 
 fast, and the more slowly they are boiled the 
 better. Put them into a saucepan with barely 
 enough cold water to cover them, and as soon 
 as the water boils throw in a little more cold 
 wafer. This will check the heat, and keep the 
 potatoes from breaking before they are done 
 through. Thrust a fork into them occasionally ; 
 and as soon as they are soft take them up, pour 
 off the liquor, and let them stand by the side of 
 the fire with the saucepan partially uncovered 
 
POT 
 
 606 
 
 POT 
 
 till the moisture has evaporated and .they are 
 quite dry. If they are allowed to remain in 
 the water after they are done enough, they will 
 certainly be spoilt. Serve very hot. When 
 potatoes are done before they are wanted, they 
 should be drained and left in the saucepan by 
 the side of the fire, and instead of the lid a 
 folded cloth should be laid over them. This 
 will absorb the moisture and keep them hot 
 and in good condition for some time. In order 
 to make boiled potatoes look, floury, boil and 
 drain them as above, and whilst they are drying 
 hj the side of the fire shake the saucepan 
 vigorously every minute or two. This will give 
 them a very good appearance, but it is rather 
 wasteful, as a good portion of the potato sticks 
 to the side of the pan. Time, according to the 
 quality of the potato, from half an hour to an 
 hour and a half. Probable cost. Id. or IJd. 
 per pound. Suf&cient, two or three potatoes for 
 each person. 
 
 POTATOES, BOILED (another way). 
 
 Choose potatoes of uniform size, wash them 
 well, and scrub them with a soft brush, but do 
 not touch them at all with a knife, even to re- 
 move the specks. Put them in a saucepan, 
 barely cover them with cold water, throw in a 
 spoonful of salt, and let them simmer gently 
 until they are done enough, then let them boil 
 quickly for two or three minutes. Drain the 
 water from them, leave them in the saucepan 
 by the side of the fire partially coVered, and let 
 them remain until they are quite dry, then peel 
 them quickly, and serve at once. Leave the 
 cover of the tureen a little on one side, that 
 the steam may escape and not descend upon the 
 potatoes. Time, half an hour to an hour, ac- 
 cording to the quality of the tubers. Prob- 
 able cost. Id. or IJd. per pound. Sufficient, 
 half a dozen for two or three persons. 
 
 POTATOES, BOILED (another way). 
 
 Wash, pare, and boil the potatoes in the 
 usual way. Pour off the water, and instead of 
 drying the potatoes by the side of the fire, turn 
 them into a bowl. Put the tureen in which they 
 are to be served before the fire. Take each 
 potato separately, lay it in a warm soft napkin, 
 and twist the cloth round it to dry it, and at the 
 same time shape it neatly. Put each potato as 
 it is done into the vegetable dish, and keep this 
 covered with a hot cloth. Serve as quickly as 
 possible. Potatoes are certainly very good pre- 
 pared in this way, but it it necessary to use des- 
 patch in drying them, or they will be cool before 
 they can be served. Time to boil the potatoes, 
 half an hour to an hour, according to the 
 quality. Probable cost. Id. or IJd. per pound. 
 Sufficient, two or three for each person. i 
 
 POTATOES, BOILED (another way). 
 
 Take twenty middle-sized potatoes, peel, 
 wash, and drain them, put them into a two- 
 qi.art stewpan with one quart of water and a 
 little salt. When they have boiled fifteen 
 minutes, throw off the water, cover closely, and 
 let them steam till done, which will be in about 
 five minutes more. 
 POTATOES, BOILED (another way). 
 
 The boiling of potatoes in the best manner, 
 ■which to some may seem a very simple affair. 
 
 requires considerable attention, and much of the 
 goodness of the vegetable depends on its being 
 properly cooked. The following directions are 
 given in the Farmer's Magazine. "It is of 
 consequence that the potatoes be as nearly as 
 possible of one size; that they be well washed 
 and cleared of earth or dirt; that they be 
 put, with cold water, into a pan or kettle, well 
 rinsed about, and kept there for an hour or two, 
 which will extract the black liquor with which 
 they are impregnated. They ought then to be 
 put, with their skins on, not into boiling water 
 like greens, but into fresh cold water, with a 
 little salt, and boiled in a kettle or saucepan, 
 closely covered, in the most rapid manner. No 
 more water should be put in than merely to 
 cover them, as they produce themselves a con- 
 siderable quantity of fluid. When sufficiently 
 done, the water should be instantly poured off, 
 and the vessel containing the cooked potatoes 
 is to be placed on the side of the fire with the 
 cover off until the steam be completely evapo- 
 rated ; the potatoes are thus rendered quite dry 
 and mealy." 
 
 POTATOES, BOILED (Irish fashion). 
 
 In Ireland potatoes are cooked so that they 
 may have, as they call it, a hone in them ; that 
 is, that the middle part shall not be quite 
 cooked. They are done thus. Put a gallon of 
 water with two ounces of salt in a large iron pot 
 with the potatoes, boil for about ten minutes, 
 or until the skin is loose, pour the water out of 
 the pot, put a dry cloth on the top of the 
 potatoes, and place the pot on the side of the 
 fire, without water, for about twenty minutes, 
 and serve. In Ireland turf is the principal 
 article of fuel, which is burnt on the flat 
 hearth; a little of it is generally scraped 
 up round the pot so as to keep a gradual 
 heat; by this plan the potato is both boiled 
 and baked. Probable cost. Id. or IJd. per 
 pound. 
 
 POTATOES, BOILED IN THEIR JACKETS. 
 
 Potatoes are frequently boiled and served in 
 their jackets, and a small plate is placed by 
 the side of each guest to receive the skins. 
 They are certainly nicer boiled in this way 
 than in any other, and also better, for the 
 most nutritious portion of the potato is said 
 to lie quite close to the skin, and it is frequently 
 cut off when the potato is carelessly peeled; 
 at the same time this method is an incon- 
 venient and not very tidy way of serving them. 
 Choose potatoes of uniform size, and scrub 
 them with a soft brush until they are perfectly 
 clean. Put them into a saucepan with a little 
 cold water, not quite sufficient to cover them. 
 Boil them as gently as possible, for the more 
 slowly they are cooked the better they will be. 
 If a little salt is thrown in occasionally, it will 
 be found a great improvement. If the potatoes 
 are large, add half a cupful of cold water every 
 now and then. In order to ascertain whether or 
 not they are done enough, probe them occar 
 sionally with a fork, and when they are tender 
 throughout, pour off the water, put the sauce- ' 
 pan once more on the fire, and let it remain 
 until the potatoes are quite dry. Send them to 
 table with the skins on. Time to boil thepotar 
 toes, from half an hour to an hour, according 
 
POT 
 
 607 
 
 POT 
 
 to size and quality. Allow six potatoes for 
 two persons. Probable cost. Id. per pound. 
 
 POTATOES, BROILED. 
 
 Take some cold potatoes; cut them length- 
 wise into slices half an inch thick, dredge a little 
 flour lightly over these, and lay them on a hot 
 gridiron over a clear but not very fierce fire. Turn 
 them about that they may be equally coloured 
 on both sides, and serve very hot. The slices 
 must not be allowed to get hard, or they will be 
 spoilt. Time, till browned. Allow two or three 
 potatoes for each person. Probable cost. Id. 
 or l^d. per pound. 
 
 POTATOES, BROWNED UNDER A ROASTING 
 JOINT. 
 
 Half boil eight or ten large kidney potatoes. 
 Drain the water from them, flour them well, and 
 lay them in an earthen dish or a tin pan. Put 
 this in the dripping-pan under the meat, and 
 baste the potatoes liberally from time to time. 
 When they are browned on one side turn them 
 upon the other. Before sending to table, place 
 them on blotting-paper or on a sieve, to clear 
 them fnom fat, and serve very hot. The potatoes 
 may be either put on a separate dish or placed 
 round the joint they are to accompany. Time 
 to boil the potatoes, about a quarter of an hour ; 
 to brown them, one hoTtr or more. Probable 
 cost of potatoes. Id. or l^d. per pound. Allow 
 two or three for each person. 
 
 POTATOES, CASSEROLE OF. 
 
 {See Casseboie op Potatoes.) 
 
 POTATOES, CHOOSING OF. ' 
 
 There are so many sorts and sizes of potatoes, 
 and tastes differ so much with regard to them, 
 that it is scarcely possible to give a general 
 rule as to choosing them. It is best to buy them 
 with the mould hanging about them, as this 
 shows that they are freshly dug, and this mould 
 should not be removed until they are about to 
 be used. Yellow-looking potatoes are the best, 
 and reddish-coloured ones are better than white. 
 Pctatoes are more likely to be good when they 
 are of a moderate size and free from blemish 
 than when they are very large. 
 
 POTATOES, COLD, FRIED IN SLICES. 
 
 Cut up half a dozen firm, boiled potatoes in 
 slices a quarter of an inch thick. Put these 
 into a saucepan with two ounces of fresh butter, 
 and shake them over the fire until they are 
 lightly browned. Sprinkle over them a little 
 pepper and salt, a table-spoonful of chopped 
 parsley, a tea-spoonful of finely-minced onion, 
 and the juice of half a small lemon. A tea- 
 spoonful of good brown gravy may be added or 
 not. Serve very hot. Time, ten minutes to 
 fry the potatoes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient 
 for two or three persons. 
 
 POTATOES, COLD, TO RE-COOK. 
 
 "When potatoes are left after being served, 
 they may be sent to table again in two or three 
 ways. They may be mixed with cabbages, and 
 made into colcannon (see Colcannon), or they 
 may be made into a salad (see Potato Salad), 
 or they may be warmed with cream {see Pota- 
 toes 1 LA Cbbmb and Sliced, with Paemesan), 
 or they may be sliced and fried (see Potatoes, 
 Cold, Fbied in Slices), or they may be more 
 
 simply fried, as follows. Melt a piece of clean 
 dripping in a frying-pan, slice the potatoes 
 into this, season with pepper and salt, and 
 keep stirring them about until they are quite 
 hot. Serve immediately. Or beat up cold 
 potatoes till they are quite . free from lumps. 
 With one pound of the pulp mix two table- 
 spoonfuls of flour, a little pepper and salt, an 
 ounce of butter, and as much milk as will 
 moisten the mashed potatoes. Press them into a 
 plain mould, and bake in a moderate oven until 
 they are nicely browned. Serve very hot. Or 
 take the remains of mashed potatoes as soon as 
 they come from the table. Press them lightly 
 into a small mould, and leave them until the 
 next day. Half an hour before they are wanted, 
 turn them out, cut them into slices half an inch 
 thick, and brown them in a baking-tin in the 
 oven. ' 
 
 POTATOES, CURRIED. 
 
 Chop and fry a good-sized onion in a little , 
 butter until it becomes a pale yellow. Add half 
 a pint of milk and plain stock mixed, and two 
 table-spoonfuls of rice flour. Boil up and sim- 
 mer till the onion is done. Cut some cold pota- 
 toes into dice, add them to the above with a 
 tea-spoonful of curry powder, salt, and a little 
 lemon-juice. Serve as soon as hot through, and 
 impregnated with the curry flavour. 
 
 POTATOES EN SALADE. 
 
 Boil, peel, and slice potatoes, and season them 
 with oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, and fine herbs, 
 either sliced gherkins, beetroot, or capers. 
 
 POTATOES, FISH SOUP WITH. 
 
 {See Fish Soup, with Potatoes.) 
 POTATOES, FORCED (a French recipe). 
 
 Take two large kidney potatoes, wash and peel 
 them, cut them in half lengthwise ; scoop out 
 the inside carefully with a spoon, leaving the 
 outer part about the thickness of a penny-piece. 
 Take two large roasted potatoes, two shallots 
 chopped fine, a piece of butter the size of an 
 egg, a little piece of fat bacon, a pinch of 
 parsley and chives chopped fine ; pound all 
 with pepper and salt, form into a paste, butter 
 the insides of the potato-shells, and fill them 
 with this paste, in which let the upper part be 
 convex ; butter a baking-tin with fresh butter, 
 put your potatoes on it, and bake them in a 
 moderate oven; in half an hour, if the upper 
 and under parts are browned, serve. 
 
 POTATOES FOR PILGRIMS (a Trappist recipe). 
 
 Boil six or eight potatoes, and cut them in 
 slices. Make a little frying batter (see Feting 
 Battbb), and dip in it half a dozen onions 
 thinly sliced; fry these in hot fat, and when 
 they are browned, put the potatoes into the 
 pan with them. Pour over them as much milk 
 as will barely cover them. Sprinkle powdered 
 sugar upon them, let them stew gently a short 
 time, and serve very hot. Time to stew, five 
 or six minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 POTATOES, FRIED. 
 
 French kidney potatoes are the best for this 
 purpose. Wash and peel some potatoes, and 
 cut them from the breadth (not the length) in 
 slices as thin as a shilling. As they are sliced 
 
POT 
 
 608 
 
 POT. 
 
 throw them into cold water, and keep them 
 there until wanted. When they are to be 
 fried dry them carefully in a napkin, and 
 throw them — a few at a time — into as much 
 boiling fat as will cover them entirely. The fat 
 may be known to be boiling when it ceases to 
 hiss, and is still. Move the potatoes about in 
 the fat that they may be equally cooked, and 
 when they are brightly browned on both sides 
 and crisp, put them on a cloth or on brown 
 paper before the fire to drain the grease from 
 them, sprinkle a little salt over them, and 
 serve very hot. Fried potatoes are good with 
 steaks or chops, or may be even served by 
 themselves as a breakfast dish. Cold boiled 
 potatoes may be sliced and fried in the same 
 way, but the slices should be cut a quarter 
 of an inch thick. Time to fry, about eight 
 minutes. The best and easiest way of frying 
 potatoes is to put them a few at a time into a 
 frying basket and fry in boiling fat. 
 
 POTATOES, FRIED (another way). 
 
 Cut the potatoes into slices about the thick- 
 ness of a shilling, then fry them in clarified 
 dripping. If you have any goose dripping, it 
 will do better. When the potatoes are fried a 
 fine brown colour and crisp, drain all the grease 
 on a towel, and serve them quite hot on a nap- 
 kin, or in a deep dish; they cannot be dished 
 nicely in any other way. Do not forget to 
 sprinkle them over with a little pounded salt. 
 
 POTATOES, FRIED (another way). 
 
 Take a sufficient number of potatoes, and cut 
 them into thin slices. Wash well and dty, then 
 put them in a saucepan with cold water, and 
 boil up once. Drain and dry. Melt a slice of 
 butter in a frying-pan, shake the slices in this 
 over the fire till brown, and serve. By way of 
 variety, potatoes may be fried in batter, a little 
 pepper and salt being shaken over them when 
 they are frying. Small new potatoes are best 
 for this method. 
 
 POTATOES FRIED FOR GARNISH. 
 
 (See Gabnish. Potatoes Fried foe.) 
 
 POTATOES, FRIED, GARNISH OF. 
 
 Cut the potatoes into any fanciful shapes, 
 wash them, drain them on a cloth, and then 
 melt an ounce of butter, and pour it over them. • 
 Put the potatoes in a stewpan large enough to 
 allow them to lie clear of one another. Toss 
 them about every two or three minutes till they 
 are brightly browned, and serve immediately. 
 
 POTATOES FRIED IN BUTTER. 
 
 Peel some raw potatoes, and cut them into thin 
 slices. Fry them in butter over a hot fire, con- 
 tinually turning them, until they become suf- 
 ficiently brown. Let them drain ; then arrange 
 them on a hot dish, sprinkle salt over them, and 
 serve. 
 POTATOES FRIED WHOLE. 
 
 Boil small potatoes of uniform size until they 
 ire almost done enough. Drain them, and put 
 them into a frying-pan sufficiently large to 
 allow them to lie without touching one another, 
 with plenty of hot fat. Shake them, about till 
 they are lightly and equally browned all over, 
 and serve as soon as they are done enough. If 
 liked, they may be dipped in egg and bread- 
 
 crumb before they are fried. Cold boiled pota- 
 toes may be re-dressed in this way. Time to 
 fry, ten or twelve minutes. Probable cost, 
 potatoes Id. or IJd. per pound. Allow two or 
 more potatoes for each person. 
 
 POTATOES IN CASES. 
 
 Wash half a dozen large potatoes, and bake 
 them in a moderate oven. When done enough, 
 cut a round the size of a crown from the top of 
 each, and carefully scoop out the inside, though 
 not so as to leave the skin quite bare. Eub the 
 pulp through a colander, and mix with it an 
 ounce of butter, two talDle-spoonfuls of milk, 
 and a little pepper and salt. Stir the mixture 
 over the fire until it is hot, then add the white 
 of an egg beaten to a froth. Eub the skin of 
 the potatoes with butter, fill them with the 
 mixture, put the lids in their places, and bake 
 the potatoes in a quick oven. If liked, the 
 potato-cases can be filled with minced meat or 
 forcemeat instead of mashed potatoes. Time to 
 bake the potatoes, two hours at first, afterwards 
 until quite hot. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient 
 for two or three persons. 
 
 POTATOES, MASHED. 
 
 Boil or steam the potatoes until they are 
 sufficiently cooked, and are mealy and dry. 
 Carefully remove any discoloured places there 
 may be upon them, put the tubers into a bowl, 
 and beat them with a wooden spoon for two or 
 three minutes, and whilst beating, add a little 
 salt, a slice of butter oiled, and one or two table- 
 spoonfuls of boiling milk or cream. When the 
 beaten potatoes are quite smooth and free from 
 lumps, put them into a saucepan, and beat them 
 over the fire for a minute or two, till they are 
 light and quite hot. Dish them lightly, and draw 
 the fork backwards over them to roughen" the sur- 
 face. Or butter a mould, press the potatoes 
 into it, brown them in the oven, and turn them 
 out before serving. Or put them into a dish, 
 and reserve a small portion of the mash. Press 
 this through a colander upon the top of the 
 potatoes, and brown the surface before the fire, 
 or with a red-hot iron. Or press them into 
 small buttered pans, brown them, and turn 
 them out before serving ; serve very hot. Time, 
 half an hour or more to boil the potatoes. 
 Probable cost. Id. to IJd. per pound. Sufficient, 
 two pounds of potatoes for four or five persons. 
 
 POTATOES, MASHED AND BROWNED. 
 
 Boil a pound of mealy potatoes in their skins. 
 When done enough, peel them, throw them into 
 a bowl, and beat them lightly with an ouiice of 
 butter, two table-spoonfuls of cream or milk, a 
 little pepper and salt, and the yolk of an egg. 
 Butter a pie-dish, turn the mashed potatoes into 
 it, brush over with the white of an egg, orna- 
 ment on the. top, and brown in a quick oven. 
 Serve the potatoes in the dish. Time, half an 
 hour or more to boil the potatoes, ten minutes 
 to brown them. Probable cost, 5d. Sufficient 
 for two persons. 
 
 POTATOES, MASHED, COD WITH. 
 
 (See Cod, with Mashed Potatoes.) 
 
 POTATOES, MASHED, WITH ONIONS. 
 
 Boil and dry the potatoes, and mash them ac^ 
 cording to the directions given above, and whilst 
 
POT 
 
 609 
 
 POT 
 
 mashing mix with them two or three onions 
 which have been hoiled till soft, and finely 
 minced. The quantity of onion used will, of 
 course, be regulated by taste. Some cooks, 
 when the flavour is very much liked, chop up a 
 raw onion, and mix it with the potatoes. Time, 
 from half an hour to an hour to boil the pota- 
 toes. Probable cost. Id. or l^d. per pound. 
 Sufficient, two pounds of potatoes for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 POTATOES, MOCK NEW, IN CREAM. 
 
 Wash and peel a number of small old pota- 
 toes, and cut them down to the size of new 
 ones. Boil them in salt and water for eight 
 or ten minutes, then pour off the liquid, 
 cover with a cloth, and let them steam by the 
 side of the fire for ten minutes. Almost 
 cover them with cream, sprinkle a little 
 salt over them, and let them simmer very 
 gently until they are done quite enough, but 
 whole. Lift them out carefully with a spoon, 
 pour the cream over them, and serve very hot. 
 If preferred, white sauce may be used instead 
 of cream. Time, half an hour. Probable cost 
 of potatoes, ]d. or l^d. per pound. Allow half 
 a dozen for each person. 
 
 POTATOES, MOULDED, WITH PARMESAN. 
 
 Mash some potatoes till quite smooth, and 
 bind them together with one or two well-beaten 
 eggs. Put them into a dish, and shape them in 
 a dome-like form high in the centre. Smooth 
 the surface, and afterwards draw the back of a 
 fork gently over it, and sprinkle upon it some 
 finely-grated Parmesan. Put little pieces of 
 butter here and there upon it, and bake the 
 potatoes till they are brightly browned. Serve 
 very hot. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient, two 
 pounds of potatoes for four or five persons. 
 
 POTATOES, NEW, BOILED. 
 
 Take freshly-dug new potatoes. Wash them 
 well, and rub off the skin with a fiannel or a 
 coarse cloth. Throw them into boiling salted 
 water, in which a sprig of mint may be put if 
 the flavour is not disliked, and let them simmer 
 gently until they are quite tender. Pour off the 
 liquid, and let the potatoes stand by the side of 
 the fire with the lid only half on the saucepan, 
 till they are thoroughly dry. Put a slice of but- 
 ter into a hot vegetable tureen, pile the pota- 
 toes over this, and serve very hot. New potatoes 
 should be cooked before they have been twenty- 
 four hours out of the ground. Although 
 agreeable to the taste, they are by no means 
 so digestible as fully-grown tubers. Time to 
 boil, fifteen • to thirty minutes, according to 
 size. Probable cost. Id. to IJd. per pound. 
 Sufficient, three pounds for six persons. 
 
 POTATOES, NEW, STEWED IN BUTTER. 
 
 Take new potatoes when they first come into 
 season and are young and small. Bub off the 
 skins with a flannel or coarse cloth, wash and 
 dry the potatoes well, and put them into a sauce- 
 pan with a slice of fresh butter — four ounces will 
 be enough for a good-sized dish. Let them steam 
 gently until they are done enough, shaking 
 the saucepan every two or three minutes, that 
 they may be equally cooked. Sprinkle a little 
 salt and pepper over them, and serve very 
 hot. Time to stew, about half an hour. 
 2n 
 
 Probable cost, when they first come into the 
 market. Is. per pound or more. Sufiicient, three 
 pounds for a dish. 
 
 POTATOES, PRESERVED. 
 
 Potatoes may be preserved so as to endure the 
 longest voyages by thoroughly desiccating them 
 in an oven, or by steam heat. To facilitate, the 
 operation, the tubers, either raw or three-parts 
 cooked, are usually first cut into dice three- 
 quarters of an inch square. 
 
 POTATOES, ROLLED. 
 
 Take two pounds of boiled potatoes, dry and 
 floury. Mash them well, flavour with grated 
 nutmeg, and beat them up with an ounce of 
 clarifled butter, a table-spoonful of sherry, and 
 the yolks of two eggs. Make the mixture into 
 a roll, brush it over with beaten egg, sprinkle 
 flnely-grated bread-crumbs equally over it, and 
 bake in a well-buttered dish till it is nicely 
 browned all over. Serve on a hot dish, and pour 
 over it a sauce prepared as follows. Beat the 
 yolk of an egg, and mix with it two glassfuls of 
 light wine. Add a little sugar and grated nut- 
 meg, and whisk the mixture over the fire until 
 it begins to thicken. Take it off at once, and 
 serve immediately. Time, two or three minutes 
 to boil the sauce; about half an hour to brown 
 the roll. Probable cost, exclusive of .the wine, 
 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons, 
 
 POTATOES, SACKED. 
 
 Take some large potatoes, wash them very 
 clean, bake them about forty-five minutes, or 
 till soft, and cut a round piece off the top of 
 each one. Scrape out the inside carefully, 
 taking care not to break the skin, and set aside 
 the empty cases with the covers. Mash the 
 insides very smoothly, working into the mass a 
 half tea-spoonful each of butter and cream for 
 evei-y 'potato. Season with salt, pepper, and 
 grated cheese, work it very soft with milk, and 
 put into a saucepan to heat, stirring to prevent 
 burning. When very hot, stir in one beaten 
 egg for six potatoes. Boil up once, fill the 
 skins with the mixture, replacing the caps, re- 
 turn them to the oven for three minutes, and 
 serve upon a napkin in a deep dish. 
 
 POTATOES, SAOTE. 
 
 Take the remains of ordinary plain-boiled 
 potatoes that are not fioury. Cut them up into 
 small pieces, throw them into a frying-pan with 
 a little butter, and fry gently until the edges 
 begin to brown. Dish the potatoes, pour the 
 butter over them, and sprinkle them with 
 chopped parsley, pepper, and salt. 
 
 POTATOES, SAVOURY. 
 
 Half-boil six or eight large potatoes, and 
 cut them into slices a quarter of an inch thick. 
 Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, or, 
 if preferred, substitute for the butter two ounces 
 of fat bacon cut into small pieces. Add a 
 minced onion, . and let it stew until tender. 
 Dredge » table - spoonful of flour into the 
 butter, and stir until it is smooth and brown ; 
 then pour in gradually as much boiling stock or 
 water as will make the sauce of the consistency 
 of cream. Add a pinch of thyme and mar- 
 joram, a large table-spoonful of chopped parsley, 
 Boms pepper and saltj and a little grated 
 
POT 
 
 610 
 
 POT 
 
 nutmeg, a bay-leaf, or any other flaTouring. Let 
 the sauce simmer a few "minutes, put in the 
 sliced potatoes, and when . they are tender 
 without being broken, turn the whole upon a 
 dish, and serve very hot. If liked, the butter 
 and flour may be kept from browning, and a 
 little milk may be used to thin the sauce. 
 Time, one hour or more. Probable • cpst. Is. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 POTATOES, SCALLOPED. 
 
 Mash some potatoes in the usual, way with 
 butter. and a little hot milk. Butter some scal- 
 lop-shells or patty-pans, fill them with the 
 inashed potatoes, make these smooth on the top, 
 and then draw the-back of the fork over them. 
 Sprinkle finely-grated bread-crumbs on the top, 
 and lay small pieces of butter here and there upon 
 them. Put the potatoes in a Butch oven before 
 the fire till they are brightly browned, and serve 
 on a neatly-folded napkin in the scallop-shells. 
 Time, about a quarter of an hour to brown the 
 potatoes. Probable cost. Id. or IJd. per pound. 
 Suiftcient, one scallop-shell iot each person. 
 
 POTATOES, SLICED (Gerj^^n way .of cooliing). 
 
 Dissolve two ounces of butter in a sa-ucepan, 
 mix, one ounce of flour- .smoothly . with it, and 
 stir the paste until it js lightly browned. A4d 
 a tabie-spopnful of vinegar, a small lump of 
 sugar, a quarter ojf a pint vi not stock, and a 
 bay-leaf, and boil the sauce until it is of the 
 consistency of cream. Slice four or -five pota- 
 toes, throw them into the sauce, and let them 
 simmer gently until tender. Serve immediately. 
 If liked, the sauce can be flavoured with onion. 
 Time to simmer the c potatoes, ten minutes. 
 Probable cost, 5d. Sufficient for two persons. 
 
 POTATOES, SLICED, WITH PARMESAN. 
 
 Cut some firm boiled potatoes into slices. 
 Place them in layers in a dish, and pour over 
 each layer a small portion of white sauce. Put 
 a little of the sauce smoothly over the top, 
 and sprinkle over this some grated Parmesan 
 cheese and bread-crumbs so as to cover it 
 entirely. Drop a little butter here and there 
 on the top, put the dish in a well-heated oven 
 until the potatoes are warmed through, and 
 then serve. Cold potatoes may be warmed in 
 this way, and they will be very good if the 
 Parmesan is omitted and cream used instead 
 of white sauce. Time to heat the potatoes, 
 about twenty minutes. Probable cost. Is. for a 
 moderate-sized dish. 
 
 POTATOES, STEAMED. 
 
 Wash and pare some fully-grown potatoes, 
 and as they are done throw them into cold 
 water. Drain them, put them into a 
 steamer, and place this over a saucepan 
 of bqiling water. Cover closely, and keep the 
 water touing until they are done enough. When 
 a fork will pierce them easily they are ready. 
 Shake the steamer over a bowl for a minute to 
 give the potatoes a floury appearance, and 
 serve very hot. In order to steam potatoes it is, 
 of course, necessary that the steamer should be 
 made to fit the- saucepan which contains the 
 boiling- water. Time, twenty to forty minutes, 
 accordirig to the quality of the potatoes. Prob- 
 able cost. Id. to l-^d. per pound. Sufficient, two 
 pounds for four or five persons. 
 
 POTATOES, STEWED (k la Pran;a!se). 
 
 Wash eight or nine large potatoes in two or 
 three waters. Drain them, and put them into 
 a saucepan with barely enough water to cover 
 them, and let them simmer gently till they 
 are half cooked. Peel them, and let them lie 
 till they are almost cold; then cut them into 
 slicea half an indi thick. Melt ail ounce of 
 fresh butter in a saucepan, and mix half an 
 ounce of flour smoothly with it. Add gradually 
 three-quarters of a pint of boiling stock, four 
 small .onions finely shredded, a table-spoonful of 
 chopped parsley, and a .little pepper- and salt. 
 Simmer the sauce gently . until . the . onion is 
 quite, soft. Put in the sliced potatoes, let them 
 simmer gently until done enough, and serve is. 
 a hot dish with the sauce poured over them. 
 Time to simmer the potatoes, by themselves, a 
 few minutes ; in the sauce, ten ininutes. Prob- 
 able cost, 9d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 POTATOES, STORING OF. 
 
 If kept in a cool dry place, potatoes will keep 
 good for ma!hy months^ and as they ar€ generally 
 high in price during the winter, .it is a 
 good plan to buy a quantity .when , they are 
 cheap for use when they are dear. When spring 
 comes they will begin to put out shoots, 
 especially if' they are kept in a damp place, and 
 this will make thein unfit for food. To prevent 
 this, some cooks dip them, for a moment into 
 boiling water before storing them. For domestic 
 use, the best way to preserve them is to buy 
 them with the earth still clinging around them, 
 as they are dug out of the ground, to -lay them 
 upon straw in a dry, cool cellar, and in winter 
 time to cover them with straw to keep the frost 
 from. them. They should be looked over care- 
 fully before they are put away, and if there 
 are any rotten ones amongst the number they 
 should be removed, or they may contaminate 
 the rest.. When a large quantity is to be pre- 
 served, a deep hole should be dug in the ground 
 and lined with straw, the potatoes put into it, 
 and covered with straw. 
 
 POTATOES, STUFFED. 
 
 HoUpw. out some large potatoes. , Prepare a 
 paste composed of mealy potatoes beaten in a 
 mortar with chopped parsley, chives and shallot, 
 butter, fat bacon cut into dice, ^pepper and salt. 
 Butter the insides of the.pqtatoes, and nearly fill 
 them with the ibove paste ; put them on a but- 
 tered tin, and bake in a Dutch oven. When 
 browned, serve. 
 
 POTATOES, VARIETIES OF. 
 
 The varieties of the potato that are cultivated 
 are very numerous, and' new ones are constantly 
 appearing. THe soil in which the potato is 
 grown will- be found to have a considerable in.- 
 fluence in determining the qualify of the potato ; 
 and almost every district has its peculiar 
 varieties, their names being quite arbitrary or 
 local. Most kinds are vastly improved by re- 
 moval to a different locality; nonce growers 
 rarely use for many years in succession their own 
 tubers for seed, but, continually renew the 
 stock by purchases from another district. One 
 tuber will produce as many separate plants as 
 it has eyes, but a piece of the potato must be 
 planted with each eye or shoot. The many 
 
POT 
 
 6U 
 
 POT 
 
 varieties differ in form, size, colour, and time 
 of opening; some are more prolific tkan others, 
 some are naturally waxy and wateryj and, some 
 are mealy, which is an unfailing chara^teristip 
 of the best kinds. 
 
 POtATOES, WITH SAUCE. 
 
 Put some butter in- a stewpan, thicken it with 
 flour, and fry some onions in it till they become 
 brown. Pour over them some stock, knd 
 season with salt and pepper, nutmeg, and vine- 
 gar. When the onions are sufficiently cooked, 
 add some cooked potatoes; let them remiiin 
 until they are hot, and then serve immediately. 
 
 POTATOES, WITH SAUCE PIQUANT. 
 
 Wash, pare, and half-boil some large potatoes. 
 Drain them, and when nearly cold cut them 
 into slices a quarter of an inch thick. Cut 
 two or three rashers of fat bacon into small 
 pieces, place them in a stewpan with a finely- 
 minced onion, and let them steani until the 
 onion is tender. Add a little pepper and salf, a 
 lump of sugar, a bay-leaf, and as much stock or 
 water as will barely cover the sliced potatoes. 
 This sauce should be thickened with flour to 
 make it of the consistency of thick cream, and 
 as much vinegar may be added as . will make 
 it agreeably acid. Let the sauce boil a few 
 minutes, put in the sliced potatoes, and let 
 them simmer till -they are tender without being 
 broken. Serve very hot, vi^ith the sauce poured 
 over them. Time, an hour or more. Probable 
 cost, potatoes. Id. or 2d. per pound. Sufficient, 
 six large potatoes for two or three persons. 
 
 POTATOES, WITH WHITE SAUCE. 
 
 Take some cooked potatoes, cut them in 
 pieces, pour white sauce (see White Sauce) over 
 them, and iserve. 
 
 POTATOES, WITH WHITE SAUCE (another way). 
 Thicken some butter with flour in a stewpan, 
 add some milk or cream, with chives and pars- 
 ley cut small, season with salt, -pepper, and nut- 
 meg, and boil these ingredients to the consis- 
 tency of sauce. When ready, put in some cooked 
 potatoes cut into slices, let them remain till hot 
 through, and serve. 
 
 POT-AU-FEU. 
 
 This is a common dish in France, and is to 
 be met with in almost every household. The 
 foundation is beef, and if other meats are used 
 they are reserved to make their appearance 
 under different disguises. The parts most 
 generally used are the leg, shoulders, and ribs. 
 The upper parts of the leg are, however, the 
 best for the purpose. The bouillon or broth is 
 flavoured with vegetables that are boiled in it, 
 and these are served with the bouilli or boiled 
 beef. In making pot-au-feu it must be remem- 
 bered that the sj;ewpan must be, Eorupulously 
 clean. It is usually made of tinned metal or 
 earthenware. The m«at should be quite fresh, 
 should be simmered very gently but continu- 
 ously, and skimmed with great .care> The flre 
 should be steady but slow, and should be mended 
 very gently when necessary, that the ebullition 
 may not be increased. _ The stewpan should not 
 be very closely covered, or the bouillon will not 
 be clear-T-and the true French bouillon is clear, 
 limpid, of a golden-amber colour, and exhales 
 
 pleasantly, the combined aromas ■ of the various 
 meats and vegetables.. The latter should be 
 added after the meat has simmered half the 
 time, and they should not be allowed to remain 
 in the pan aifter they are done enough, or they 
 .>yill absorb some of its flavour. A little caramel 
 or • burnt -sugar may -be u^ed'to colour the 
 bouillon, and this should be added the last 
 thing. Some prefer the bouillon the first day, 
 and some the second. To preserve it, it should 
 be strajnedj put into a clean earthenware pan 
 without cover, kept in a cool place, and boiled 
 up every day in suminer and every three 
 days in winter. It should be remembered 
 that if either turnips or garlic are used, the 
 broth will not keep so well as if they were 
 omitted. It is the French custom to put small 
 slices of toasted bread into the soup tureen, 
 to pour the bouillon over them, and to let these 
 soai a few minutes before serving. The follow- 
 ing are the detailed instructions for making 
 pot-au-feu. Take four pounds of fresh beef 
 and any bones that may be at hand. Bind the 
 meat to keep it in shape, and break the bones 
 into small pieces. Put the bonss into the stew- 
 pan, lay the meat upon them, pour over them 
 three quarts of cold water, and add a tea-spoon- 
 ful of salt. Heat the liquid slowly and care- 
 fully, removing the scum as it rises. Keep- 
 adding a table-spoonful of cold water to assist, 
 its doing so, and skim most particularly until 
 the soup is quite clear. When it is thoroughly 
 skimmed, cover loosely to keep out the dust, 
 and let it simmer very^ gently for two honrs^ 
 Add an onion stuck with three cloves, a bunch 
 of parsley, a sprig of thyme, five or six outer 
 sticks of celery, a leek, two carrots, a bay-leaf, 
 a turnip, and a tea-spoonful of whole pepper. 
 The vegetables should be added gradually, that 
 the temperature of the soup may not be lowered 
 by them. Let the vegetables simmer gently and 
 continuously for two hours longer, or until they 
 are tender. Add a little more pepper and salt. 
 if required, and serve the bouillon in a tureen ; 
 and as a second course, the bouilli and the vege- 
 tables. Time, five hours from the tim'e the 
 liquid has once boiled. Probable cost, beef, 
 lid. per pound. Sufficient for ten or twelve 
 persons. 
 POT-AU-FEU (another way). 
 
 "The pot-au-feu," says Mr. Buckmaster, "is 
 an economical and wholesome dish, and is well- 
 suited either to a large or small family. It is 
 the standard dish of all classes in France, and 
 the origin of beef stock." Mr. Buckmaster'a 
 recipe for making pot-au-feu and bouillon is as 
 follows. " Take a piece of fresh beef weighing six 
 pounds, and about a pound of bones. Tie up the 
 meat neatly with a tape or string. Put all into 
 a saucepan holding six, quarts,, fill it up with 
 enough rain-water to cover well both meat and 
 bones, and set the pan on the. fire. Carefully 
 remove the scum as it rises, and do not let the 
 liquid boil. At intervals add small quantities 
 of cold water, which will have the effect of 
 checking the .ebullition and helping the scum 
 to rise. When the scum is all removed, put 
 in an ounce of salt, a salt-spoonful of whole 
 pepper and allspice, one onion stuck with three 
 cloves, one leek, three carrots of average size 
 cut in two-inch lerg);hs, two turnips of average 
 
POt 
 
 612 
 
 POT 
 
 size, each cut in four, and a bouquet garni 
 (bunch of herbs). These vegetables should not be 
 put in all at once, but at short intervals, so as to 
 keep the contents of the saucepan at the same 
 temperature. Skim now for the last time, and 
 set the pan by the side of the fire to simmer 
 gently for three or four hours. According to 
 the season, both or either of the following vege- 
 tables may now be added. A small head of 
 celery cut in two-inch lengths, and a couple 
 of parsnips. When about to serve, strain the 
 broth, skim off the fat, and add a small tea- 
 spoonful of pounded loaf sugar. Make the 
 broth boiling hot, and pour it into the soup 
 tureen over small slices of toasted bread, 
 adding, according to taste, a portion of the 
 vegetaJDl6s cut into thin slices. Remove the 
 tape or string, and serve the meat, garnishing 
 with mashed potatoes, spinach, or other vege- 
 tables in season. Do not be too liberal in the 
 use of pepper and salt; these can be added 
 according to taste after the soup is ready." 
 
 POT-AU-FEU, AU BAIN-MARIE. 
 
 Put in an earthen pot three pounds of beef 
 cut in slices, two pounds of fillet of veal, a loin 
 of mutton, removing all the fat, a fowl coloured 
 by roasting, and five pints of cold water. Add 
 two carrots, a turnip, three leeks, and half a 
 head of celery tied in a bundle, and an onion 
 with a clove stuck in it. Cover the pot closely, 
 and surround it with a rim of paste made rather 
 soft and of flour tad water only. The paste 
 should hermetically close thA- cover that the 
 steam may be retained within. Place the pot 
 within a stewpan four inches more in width 
 containing water, and let it boil uninter- 
 ruptedly for six hours. Be careful to add boil- 
 ing water at intervals to the Bain-Marie, the 
 ebullition of which will thus always remain the 
 same. At the end of the six hours remove the 
 paste from the cover, pass the broth through a 
 silk sieve, and use it for soups and consommes. 
 This is also a stock for a family, and nourishing 
 for persons whose stomachs are impaired by 
 fatigue, and it may be made more refreshing if, 
 in making, two lettuces, a handful of sorrel and 
 ■chervil, picked, washed, and tied in a bundle, 
 are added. 
 
 POT-AU-FEU, FRENCH, ANALYSIS OF THE. 
 
 In the housekeeping of the French artisan 
 the broth - pot yields the most substantial 
 nourishment; the wife attending to it, yet 
 without possessing the slightest notion of 
 chemistry ; she places the meat in the pot, with 
 about two quarts of water to three pounds of 
 beef, at the corner of the fire, where, slowly 
 becoming hot, the heat swells the muscular 
 fibres of the beef, dissolving the gelatinous 
 substances therein contained. By these means 
 the scum gradually rises, the osmazome (which 
 is the most savoury part of the meat) gently 
 adds its unction to the broth, and the albumen 
 (which is the muscular part producing the 
 scum), exuding itself, rises to the surface. 
 Thus by the simple process of having conducted 
 her broth-pot by slow degrees, a relishing and 
 nutritious broth has been obtained, and a piece 
 of meat tender and palatable also. Such are 
 the advantages of this truly chemical operation ; 
 whilst in Inconsiderately placing the pot over 
 
 too quick a fire, the boiling is precipitated, the 
 albumen coagulates and hardens ; the water be- 
 ing prevented from penetrating the meat, the 
 osmazome is hindered from disengaging itself, 
 and thus nothing is obtained but a piece of meat 
 hard in the eating, and a broth without taste or 
 succulence ; therefore the greatest masters direct 
 those who are charged with the putting on of 
 the stock - pots, to skim them , slowly over a 
 gentle fire, adding at intervals a little cold 
 water, that the scum may rise more copiously; 
 these are the useful results that practice daily 
 evinces to even the least skilful of the profes- 
 sion. It is sufficient to possess but a small share 
 of sense to become quickly aware of these first 
 principles of alimentary chemistry. 
 
 POT-AU-FEU, HOUSEHOLD (a restorative broth). 
 
 Put in a sufiiciently large earthen pot four 
 pounds of beef sliced, a good knuckle of veal, 
 and a fowl half roasted. Add nearly three 
 quarts of cold water, set it at the side of the fire, 
 and skim gently. Add salt, two carrots, a tur- 
 nip, three leeks, and half a head of celery tied 
 in a bundle, an onion with a clove stuck in it, 
 and let the whole boil slowly for five hours with- 
 out ceasing. Then take up the roots and trim 
 them neatly; taste the broth, using but little 
 salt to flavour tlie soup ; skim, add the roots to 
 it, and serve. This is a healthy soup, and good 
 in families where the nourishment of children is 
 to be attended to. 
 
 POT-HERBS. 
 
 One is inclined to infer from the name pot- 
 herbs that they play an important part in 
 cookery, and occupy the place of leading articles 
 of diet. It is not so, however; pot-herbs are 
 rather those which are of secondary importance, 
 and of value chiefly for flavouring, as parsley, 
 horse-radish, Indian cress, etc. 
 
 Borage. — A native of or naturalised in some 
 parts of this country. Its young leaves and 
 tender tops afford a boiled dish in summer 
 and autumn; they are also sometimes used as 
 salads. 
 
 OTiervil.- — An annual plant, a native of various 
 Continental regions, and sometimes met with 
 naturalised in English gardens. A variety of 
 chervil cultivated m Paris has beautiful frizzed 
 leaves. The tender leaves are made use of in 
 salads and soups; those of the curled variety 
 are also used in jgarnishing. 
 
 Dill. — A hari^ biennial plant, possessing 
 powerful aromatic properties. By means of its 
 leaves one may heighten the relish of some 
 vegetable pickles, particularly cucumbers. The 
 leaves are also employed in salads and soups. 
 
 Fennel. — A perennial plant, naturalised in 
 this country, and long an inmate of our 
 gardens. Its tender stalks are used in salads; 
 the leaves boiled form' an ingredient in fish 
 sauces ; they are used raw to garnish several 
 dishes. There is a variety of fennel called 
 finochio, the blanched stalks of which are eaten 
 with oil, vinegar, and pepper, as a cold salad; 
 sometimes they are put into soup. 
 
 Horse-radish. — ^A perennial plant found by the 
 side of ditches, and in marshy places in some 
 parts of England. Its cultivation in gardens 
 has long been attended to. The root of the 
 horse-radish, when scraped into threads, is a 
 
POT 
 
 613 
 
 POT 
 
 popular accompaniment to roast beef. It is 
 aJso_ employed in sauces, and in winter salads. 
 
 Indian Cress. — The Indian cress ,or nastur- 
 tium i-s a native of Peru, and a hardy, annual. 
 In its native clime it stands several seasons, hut 
 with us — our winter heing too severe — it has to 
 be treated as an annual plant, and be sown 
 every year. Its flowers and young leaves are 
 often eaten in salads ; they have a warm taste 
 like the common cress. The flowers, are also 
 used as a garnishing for dishes. The . berries, 
 when gathered green and pickled, form an ex- 
 cellent substitute for. capers. 
 
 Marigold. — The marigold, or pot marigold, 
 has been known in this country since 1573. It 
 is a native of France and Spain, and an annual 
 plant. In some districts of England the flowers 
 are employed in broths and soups. 
 
 Parsley. — A hardy biennial introduced into 
 this country in 1548. It is a native of Sar- 
 dinia. It is now so common with us as to be 
 naturalised in several districts both in England 
 and Scotland. " It may be right to notice," 
 says Neill, " that the poisonous plant called 
 fool's . parsley (.^thusa Cynapium), a common 
 weed in rich garden soils; has been sometimes 
 mistaken for common parsley. They are easily 
 distinguished : the leaves of fool's parsley are 
 of a. darker green; of a different shape, and, 
 instead of the peculiar parsley smell, have, 
 when bruised, a disagreeable odour. When 
 the flower-stem of the fool's parsley appears, 
 the plant is. at once distinguished by what is 
 vulgarly called its beard — three long pendant 
 leaflets of the involucrum. The timid may shun 
 all risk of mistake by cultivating only the 
 curled variety.. This last, it may be remarked, 
 makes the .prettiest garnish." The leaves of the 
 common plain-leaved parsley and the curled- 
 leaved are used as pot-herbs all the year round,; 
 they are also used for garnishing. The broad- 
 leaved sort has a large white carrot-shaped root, 
 which is drawn in autumn and winter, like 
 parsnips, for the table. 
 
 Purslane. — An annual plant, a native of 
 America. It was introduced into England in 
 1652. The young shoots and succulent leaves 
 of the purslane are considered cooling, and are 
 used in spring and summer in salads, and also 
 as pot-herbs and pickles. Purslane is not so 
 iliucH in demand now as it used to be. 
 
 Tarragon. — ^A perennial plant, a native of 
 Siberia, j3ultivated in England since the middle 
 of the sixteenth century. The smell of tar- 
 ragon is fragrant, and it has an aromatic taste. 
 The leaves and tender tips form an ingredient 
 in pickles. A pleasant fish sauce is made by 
 simply infusing the plant in vinegar. In 
 France it is employed on account of its 
 agreeable pungency, to correct the coldness of 
 salad herbs; it is also put in soups and other 
 compositions.. 
 
 The following directions for drying and 
 preserving pot-herbs are from the pen of a 
 celebrated herbalist. "It is very important to 
 those who are not in the constant habit of 
 "attending the markets to know when the 
 various seasons commence for purchasing sweet 
 herbs. AH vegetables are in the highest state 
 of perfection, and fullest of juice and flavour, 
 just, before thejr begin to flower; the first and 
 
 last crop have neither the fine flavour nor the 
 perfume of those which are gathered in the 
 height of the. season; that is, when. the greater 
 part of the' crop of each species is, ripe. , Take 
 care that they are gathered on, a dry day; by 
 which means they will have a better colour 
 when dried. Cleanse your, herbs, well from 
 dirt and dust, cut oif the roots; separate the 
 bunches into smaller ones, and dry them by the 
 heat of a stove, or in, a Dutch, oven before a 
 common fire, in such quantities at a time that 
 the process may be speedily finished, i.e. ' kill 
 'em quick,' says. a great botanist; by this means 
 their flavour will be best preserved.. There 
 can be no doubt of the propriety of drying 
 herbs, etc., hastily by the aid of artificial .heat, 
 rather than bjr the heat of the sun. The, only 
 caution requisite is to avoid burning, and of 
 tliis a sufficient test is afforded by the, preserva- 
 tion of the colour." The. common custom is, 
 when they are perfectly dried,. to put them into 
 bags, and hang them up to the roof of a kitchen, 
 or lay them in a dry place; but' a better method 
 is to pick off the leaves from the stalks; to rub 
 them over a hair sieve so as to extract the dust 
 which generally adheres to them, particularly 
 those which are purchased with the roots on, 
 and to put them in wide - mouthed bottles 
 (taking care that they are quite dry), 'and if 
 well stopped the aroma of the herb will be- 
 preserved. Another plan is to infoise the herbs- 
 iu as much spirit, vinegar, or ' wine, as win- 
 cover them, and after ten or twelve days to 
 strain off, repeating it with the strained liquor 
 over fresh herbs if it is wished to have- the- 
 essence very strong. This- impregnates - soups 
 or sauces with the flavour without any appear- 
 ance of the herb, and it will keep good for 
 years, whilst a very small quantity suifices. 
 The proper season for g-athering the f ollowiiig 
 herbs to be preserved in either mode or in 
 both, is as follows. Basil, from the middle of 
 August to middle of September; knotted rnar- 
 joram, from beginning of July to- end of 
 August; savory, the same; thyme, throughout 
 June and July; mint, July; sage, Augfust and. 
 September ; tarragon and" burnet, from July- 
 to August; chervil, parsley, and fennel; May^ 
 June, and July. ' 
 
 POT PIE, CHICKEN. 
 
 Joint a fowl into small convenient pieces. 
 Boil in enough water to cover the-m, until almost 
 tender. Put a table-spoonful of salt into the 
 ■water when the meat is half done. Make a crust 
 by mixing a quart of flour with a pint of milk, 
 two table-spoonfuls of butter, two tea-spoonfuls 
 of baking-powder, and a salt-spoonful' of salt. 
 Eoll Ughtly, and line a well-buttered' pudding- 
 basin with it. Put in a layer of the chicken; 
 season it with salt and pepper, dredge with a 
 little flour, then put in other layers of chicken 
 until the basin is full. Cover with the crust, tie 
 a cloth over the top, and boil slowly for an hour. 
 Probable cost, 3s. 6d. 
 
 POTTED HEAD., 
 
 Cleanse perfectly half a bullock's head and a 
 cow-heel. Put them into lukewarm, water, and 
 let them soak for two or tliree hours. ' Drain theJB 
 and put them into a- stewpan ; cover, with cold 
 water, and let them simmer very gently until 
 
POT 
 
 614 
 
 POU 
 
 the meat is quite tender. Pour the liquid into 
 a separate bowl, and set it in a cool place. Let 
 the head and heel cool, remove from them the 
 bones, skin, and sinew, and cut the flesh into 
 very small pieces. Skim the fat from the top of 
 the broth, strain the liquor, , and put it into a 
 jar, with the minced meat and a seasoning of 
 salt, cayenne, and pounded mace. Cover closely, 
 and let it bake in a gentle Oven for three hours 
 longer. Pour it into small moulds, and let these 
 stand in a cool place. When quite cold the pre- 
 paration will form a jelly j and it should be 
 turned out for use, and served cold. Garnish 
 the dish with sprig^ of fresh parsley. If the 
 jelly is so stiff that there is a difficulty in turn- 
 ing it out, plunge the mould into boiling water 
 for a second or two, and- it will come away 
 easily. Time, about three hours to simmer the 
 head and heel from the time the water reaches 
 the boiling-point. Probable cost of bullock's 
 lead, 8d. per pound; of cow heel, 4d. to 8d. 
 
 iPOTTED MEAT. 
 
 To pot meat is one way of preserving it longer 
 'than would be possible in the ordinary way; 
 and in potting it this is done by pounding the 
 rflesh to a pulp in a mortar^ mixing it with salt 
 ^nd spices, pressing it into a jar, and covering it 
 with a thick coat of melted butter or lard tp 
 -exclude the air. The jar , is , then • tied dowii 
 -tightly -with bladder or oiled paper. The re- 
 mains of any tender, well-roaeted meat will 
 answer just as well for potting as if it were 
 cooked for the purpose ; but pare should be 
 taken first that the meat is put _ through, and 
 that every little piece of skin, JEat, sinew, and 
 gristle is removed, and afterwards that it is 
 pounded so thoroughly that not a single lump 
 is to be found in it. Care is required, too, in 
 seasoning it, and it is better to add the spices 
 gradually, and to keep tasting the meat until it 
 satisfies the palate — for additional spice. can be 
 put in when it cannot be takgn out. At the 
 «ame time potted meat is worth nothing unless 
 it is pleasantly flavoured, and it is almost uni- 
 -versally liked rather highly seasoned. The meat 
 shonld be cold before it is cut, and the butter 
 shonld be cool before it is poured upon the 
 paste. The gravy, too, should be drained 
 thoroughly from the meat, or the latter will not 
 leep. Dry and salted meats will need more 
 butter than fresh white ones. 
 
 POTTED MEAT BASKET. 
 
 Make some potted meat according to preced- 
 ing recipe, andimould it to any desired shape. 
 It must be put in the mould a little at a time 
 and well pressed, that it may take the shape. 
 The bottom must- be made smooth by means of 
 a palette knife, so that when turned out the 
 meat may stand evenly on the dish. It must 
 then be put in a cold place for a few hours, when 
 it will turn out easily if loosened round the 
 edge. The handle of the basket may be formed of 
 a piece of flat cap wire, such as is used by mil- 
 liners. It must be bent to shape and stuck 
 firmly into the meat. This should be covered on 
 both sides with curled butter, and the rim and 
 base of the basket treated similarly. More 
 butter may be put on to form the sides of the 
 basket, and it may be garnished in many ways, 
 according to taste. Cost uncertain. 
 
 POTTING. 
 
 By potting is generally meant the opera- 
 tion of preserving edible substances in a state 
 for immediate use in small pots or j^rs. 
 In the case of animal food, the method of pro- 
 ceeding is first to cook the substance well, 
 carefully deprive it of bones, skin, sinews, etc., 
 and then mince it. After being minced it is 
 pounded in a clean polished marble or iron 
 mortar, together with a little butter and some 
 cayenne pepper, or other suitable sauce or 
 spicb, until it forms a perfectly smooth paste. 
 This is pressed into pots, which are about two- 
 thirds filled'. Clarified butter is then poured 
 in, to the depth of about an eighteenth of an 
 inch; the pots are closed over and stored in a 
 cool place. In this state their contents can be 
 preserved for a considerable time. 'Potted 
 meats, fish, etc. are commonly sold in the shops. 
 They are all intended for relishes, and are 
 spread upon bread just like butter. (See also 
 PijTTED Meat.) 
 
 POT TOP LIQUOR. < 
 
 The fat should always be skimmed carefully 
 from the top of soups and sauces, 'and it may 
 be used for frying purposes, and will be found 
 excellent. It should, of course, be clarified ; 
 to - accomplish this ■ the fat should be boiled 
 gently with a little water, then strained through 
 a gravy strainer. Or it may be poured into a 
 bowl with the water, and when it is cold it will 
 be found that the impurities have sunk .to the 
 bottom of the cake of fat, and may easily be re- 
 moved. It is- most essential to the excellence 
 of soup that it should be well skimmed, and it 
 is a good plan to throw a table-spoonful of cold 
 water into the liquor as it approaches the boil- 
 ing-point, to, assist the scum in rising. 
 
 POULAC KETCHUP. 
 
 Take a quart of ripe elderberries, measured 
 after they have been stripped from the stalks. 
 Put them into a deep jar, and pour over them a 
 pint and a half of boiling, vinegar. Place the 
 jar in a cool oven overnight. Next day strain 
 the liquid without squeezing the fruit, and put 
 it into a saucepan with an inch of whole ginger, 
 two blades of mace, a tea-spoonful of pepper- 
 corns, a te,a-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful 
 of cloves, and eight shallots. Boil all together 
 for five or six njinutes, then pour the ketchup 
 out, and when cold, put it with the spice into 
 small bottles, which must be corked and sealed 
 securely. If liked, half a pound of boned an- 
 chovies may be put into the liquid with the 
 spices, and stirred gently until they have dis- 
 solved. Probable coat, uncertain. Sufficient 
 for four half-pint bottles. 
 
 POULARDE (k la Royal). 
 
 Bonie the bird. Unless the cook is experienced, 
 this had better be done by the poulterer. Fill 
 it with mushroom forcemeat, which will be im- 
 proved by the addition of a boiled sweetbread. 
 Truss it securely, cover it with thin slices of fat 
 bacon, put oiled paper over this, and tie it on 
 with twine. Put it down at some distance from 
 a clear fire until it is heated through, then draw 
 it nearer, and baste liberally until it is done 
 enough. About a quarter of an hour before it 
 is taken down remove the paper and bacon. 
 
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 Id 
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POU 
 
 G15 
 
 POU 
 
 and let the bird brown nicely.: Dish it on a 
 puree of chestnuts prepared as follows. Peel 
 the outer rind from - fifty sound ' Spanish 
 chestnuts; throw them into a saucepan of 
 hot water, and let them remain upon the 
 fire until the inner • brown , sMn can be 
 easily removed. Poiir the water from them, 
 throw them into cold "water, peel, and wipe 
 them witi a soft cloth. Put them into a ste*- 
 pan with a pint -of cold milk, and let them 
 simmer very gently until they are quite soft. 
 Drain them, and rub them while hot through a 
 wire sieve. Put the pulp into a, stewpan with 
 two table-spoonfuh of milk or cream, a sjice of. 
 buttei;, a lump of sugar, and a little pepper and 
 salt. Stir the pUree over the fire till it is quite 
 hot, and it is ready for the capon. Time to 
 roast' the capon, rabout an hour and a quarter; 
 to boil the chestnuts, varying" with the quality,. 
 Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient for Ave or 
 six persons. . , ; 
 
 POULARDE (i la Stamboul). 
 
 Draw the bird carefully, and wipe it out with 
 a damp cloth. Boil half a pound of best rice 
 till it is tender, then dtaiu the, liquid, from it, 
 and lay the grain, on a sieve before the fire to 
 swell. Moisten part of it slightly with a' little 
 highly-seasoned veal stoeki and fill the bird with 
 it. Truss it firmly and securely, cover with thin 
 slices of bacon, fasten oiled paper over this, and 
 lay the bird down to a clear fire. -Baste liberally, 
 and a quarter of an hour before it is taken down 
 remove the paper and bacon, and- let tie bird 
 brown nicely. Moisten the remainder of- the' 
 rice with veal stoct, place it on a hot dish, and 
 lay the poularde Upon it. Garnish the dish with 
 slices of lemon, or fresh barberries . if they can 
 be had. Probable cost, variable. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 
 POULARDE, GALANTINE OF (an excellent Supper 
 dish), 
 l^iis dish is always served cold. Split a 
 poularde up ' the back, and bone it without 
 injuring the skin. If the cook is not ex- 
 perienced in the art of bofling poultry, this had 
 better be done by the poulterer. Lay the bird 
 flat upon the table, breast downwards, and sea- 
 son with pepper, salt, and aromatic spices. 
 Spread on it a layer an inch thick either of 
 nicely-seasoUed sausage-meat or of go6d force- 
 mealt, and lay on this long slices Of cold boiled 
 tongue or ham, and a few small black truffles, if 
 these are obtainable. Repeat these layers until 
 the galantine is sufficiently filled up. Sew it up 
 securely with twine, as nearly as possible in its 
 original fol-m; roll it lightly in sin oiled cloth, 
 and fasten the ends with string. Lay the bones 
 and any trimmings of meat that may be at hand 
 in a stewpan (if there are none, a calf's foot must 
 be used). Lay the foWl upon these, and add a 
 large onion stuck with one clove, a bunch of 
 parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a carrot, 
 and as much good veal stock as will barely 
 cover the fowl. Cover cloSely, and let it stew 
 gently until done enough. Let it remain in the 
 stock until partially cold.' Takeit'up, and hav^' 
 ing strained the gravy, reduce quickly tor a jelly 
 and clarify it (see Jsllt fob Pies, to Clabitt). 
 Part of this jelly may be Used to glaze the galan- 
 tine, and a little isinglass may be dissolved in 
 
 it to stiffen it. Let it remain until quite cold, 
 then remove the cloth, take out the stitches, and 
 glaze the poUlarde. When the jelly is quite 
 stiff, cut it into cubes or diamonds, and use it 
 for garnishing the dish. Time- to stew the 
 galantine,- one hour and three-quarters, or two 
 hours if very large. Probable cost, varying with 
 the ingredients^ Sufficiient for a supper dish. 
 
 POULARDE .'RAISED PIE. 
 
 Make threp pounds of good forcemeat. ^This 
 may be made either with equaV parts of fillet of 
 veal and ifat bacon freed from sfein and gristle, 
 chopped, powdered, and nicely seasoned; or 
 with a pound and a half of fillet of veal, a pound 
 of fresh beef suet, six ounces of panada (see 
 Panada), and four eggs. Whatever ingredients 
 are used, however,, care, must be taken to pound 
 them tliOTOughly, first separately and afi;ei;wards 
 together, ;ana to add' tbe seasoning gr^iiially so 
 that the forcemeat may be agree^ibly flavoured. 
 For ordinary tastes, a quarter of a tea-spoonful 
 of pepper and - half a tea-spoonful of nutmeg 
 will be sufficient for this quantity of forcemeat. 
 The amount of salt to be used wdll depend upon 
 the quality of the bacon. Wa,^h a pound of 
 truffles perfectly clean. Wipe and pare them, 
 then cut them into thin slices. Line a mould or 
 shape a pie large enough to, hold the poularde 
 and the forcemeat (see Paste fob Raised Pies). 
 Spread at the bottom of it a layer of forcemeat 
 and some of the sli(;es of truffle. Split a poularde 
 down the back, and take out the, bones without 
 injuring the skin. If more convenient, this 
 may be done by the poulterer. Lay it breast 
 downwards upon the board. Season the inside 
 with pepper, salt, and spices, and spread on it a 
 layer of-, forcemeat half an inch in thickness. 
 Put sqme slices of tiuffles on this, and then 
 another -layer of forcemeat. Roll the poularde 
 over, make the skin meet at the hack, and shape 
 it to fit -the mould. Lay it breast uppermost 
 on the forcemeat in the pie. Sprinkle a little 
 pepper and salt over it, lay on it some slices of 
 truffle, audi cover \^ith the remainder- of the 
 forcemeat. Lay on the top some thin slices of 
 fat bacon, put on the lidj press it down, and 
 pinch the edges together; brush over with 
 egg, and ornament it ; make a small hole in the 
 centre with a knife, tie a band of buttered paper 
 round the pie, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 In order to ascertain when it is. sufficiently 
 baked, pierce it to the centre with a knife or 
 skewer, and if it is tender throughout it is 
 done. Let it gooI for half an hour, then pour 
 into it, through the hole at, the top, a quarter of 
 a pint of savoury jelly reduced to gravy. This 
 jelly may be made by stewing the., banes and 
 trimmings of the bird and Of the meat, sea- 
 soning the liquid nicely, and dissolving in it a 
 little isinglass. When quite cold, serve, the pie 
 on a napkin, garnish it with parsley,., and carve 
 it in slices the b/eadth of the pie, and, about 
 the third of an inch thick. If liked, the truffles 
 may be omitted, and slices of veal and bacon 
 used in their place. Time to bake; two hoars. 
 Sufficient for a goodtsized pie. . 
 
 POULARDES (k la Rossini). 
 
 Take two poulardes, and well clean out the 
 stomach. Take immediately fotir pUllets, strip 
 off the flesh and pound it in a mortar, adding^ 
 
POU 
 
 616 
 
 POU 
 
 the whites of four eggs with pepper and salt. 
 Pass the whole through u sieve. Place it imme- 
 diately in a dish and on ice. Mix one ai^d a 
 half pints of cream little by little, whisking the 
 same with a wooden spatula. Add half a pound 
 of plump truffles cut in small pieces, one pound 
 of fresh f oie gras cut up ; fill the interior of the 
 poulardes with this mixture and do not tie them 
 up too tight. Cook gently in an oven for two 
 hours in a braising-pan with two quarts of stock. - 
 Let it cool and sprinkle it with lukewarm white 
 sauce. Decorate with truffles and dress with 
 whole truffles around, with a fresh foie gras 
 cooked in aspic. One might add a skewer on 
 each poularde, and one in the middle of the dish, 
 each garnished with a whole truffle. 
 
 POULARDE, WITH RICE. 
 
 Wash half a pound of best Carolina rice in 
 several waters. Pluck and draw carefully a fine 
 capon, and truss it for boiling. Put it into an oval 
 stewpan with the rice, which should have been 
 well drained, an onion stuck with two cloves, 
 and as much nicely-flavoured broth as will cover 
 the fowl. Simmer gently for an hour and a half ; 
 strain the gravy, and if it is not sufficiently re- 
 duced set aside part of it, and use only as 
 much as is required for sauce for the fowl. 
 b'kim the fat from the top. Put the rice upon 
 the dish, lay the fowl upon it, and pour the 
 sauce over all. This dish will be improved if 
 the sauce is thickened with flour, and made to 
 look white by the addition of a little cream or 
 new milk, but this will add to the expense. A 
 small quantity only of sauce must be poured over 
 the fowl or its appearance will be spoilt. Even 
 without the cream this is a pleasing dish, and it 
 is inexpensive and wholesome. Time to simmer 
 the fowl, about an hour and a half. Probable 
 cost, 3s. to 5s, Sufficient for five or six persons, 
 
 POULET (k la Marengo). 
 
 Cut up a large fowl into neat joints. Put 
 these side by side into a stewpan with a little 
 pepper and salt, a piece of garlic the size of a 
 pea, two shallots, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of 
 thyme, a bay-leaf, and four table-spoonfuls of 
 salad-oil. Move them about until they are 
 nicely browned. Lift them out, and keep them 
 hot. Dredge an ounce of flour into the oil, and 
 stir until it is quite smooth. Add a pint of 
 nicely-flavoured stock, and stir the sauce over 
 the fire until it is sufficiently thick to coat the 
 spoon, remembering not to skim the fat from 
 the sauce. Put in the pieces of chicken, and 
 let them get quite hot, but the sauce must not 
 boil after they are added. Serve on a hot dish, 
 and strain the sauce over the pieces of chicken. 
 Garnish with fried bread and e^gs fried in oil. 
 Time to fry the chicken in the oil, half an hour. 
 Probable cost of chicken, 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. 
 Sufficient for two persons. 
 
 POULET BLANC. 
 
 Pluck and draw carefully a tender young fowl 
 of good size, and truss it firmly for boiling. 
 Put it into s, stewpan with four ounces ofbxitter 
 melted, and turn it over two or three times. 
 Lift it out, and mix smoothly with the butter 
 two table-spoonfuls of flour and as rhuch weak 
 veal stock as will nearly cover the bird. Put in 
 the fowl, and with it half a dozen small onions, a 
 dozen fresh mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, a 
 
 sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a tea-spoonful of 
 lemon-juice, and a little pepper and salt. Let 
 it simmer gently until it is done enough. Lift 
 it out, and keep it hot for a few minutes. As 
 quickly as possible strain the gravy, mix with it 
 the well-beaten yolk of an egg, and stir over a 
 gentle fire until it begins to thicken, but it must 
 not boil, or it will curdle. Serve it poured over 
 the fowl, and garnish with slices of lemon and 
 parsley. Time to boil the fowl, one hour and 
 three-quarters, or two hours, according to- size. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 6d. to 4s. 6d. Sufficient for 
 four persons. 
 
 POULET EN CASSEROLE. 
 
 Truss a fowl as for roasting, introducing into 
 the body the liver and a good part of maitre 
 d'hotel butter (see Maitre d'Hotjsl Buttbb). 
 Put into an earthenware casserole one and a half 
 to two ounces of butter or clarified beef drip- 
 ping, and when this is melted lay. in the 
 chicken, with some finger-lengths of ham or 
 bacon (not too fat), a small sliced carrot, two 
 or three shallots or some young green onions, a 
 few peppercorns, and a good bouquet garni (see 
 Bouquet Gaeni). Put on the lid, and cook all 
 together in the oven until the fowl is delicately 
 coloured all over, turning and basting it occa- 
 sionally. Now remove the superfluous fat, and 
 pour in about a third of a pint of good stock 
 and a glass of white wine, cover closely and keep 
 it simmering gently but steadily in the oven for 
 one and a half to two hours. When done, lift 
 out the' fowl and cut it into neat joints. Skim, 
 all the fat from the liquor, remove the bouquet 
 garni, add a little more stock and wine, let it 
 boil, lay in the cut-up fowl, and serve when 
 quite hot in the dish in which it is cooked, with 
 a serviette pinned round. 
 
 POULET EN COTELETTES. 
 
 Chicken cutlets may either be made of the legs 
 only of three or four fowls, the superior parts of 
 which have been used in other ways^ or a fresh 
 chicken may be divided into cutlets. When the 
 legs only are used, cut out the thigh-bone, 
 and leave the drumstick untouched. Cover the 
 joints with slices of fat bacon, and stew 
 in nicely-seasoned stock until they are quite 
 tender. Lift them out, put them between 
 two dishes , with a weight over them, and let 
 them get quite cold. Trim them neatly, and 
 rub them with a savoury powder made of a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, a pinch of cayenne, a quarter 
 of a tea-spoonful of powdered mace, and the 
 eighth of a small nutmeg, grated. Dip them in 
 beaten egg and then into bread-crumbs, and fry 
 them in hot fat till they are lightly browned. 
 These cutlets may either be served without 
 sauce, with the juice of a lemon squeezed over 
 them, or they may have white or brown sauce 
 poured round them. The sauce may be made 
 by stewing the bones and trimmings of the 
 chicken. If a whole chicken is used, the bones 
 should be removed, and six cutlets should be 
 made by flattening and shaping neatly the legs, 
 wings, breast, and merry-thought. They should 
 then be rubbed with the savoury powder, egged, 
 breaded, and fried, as above. Time, three or 
 four minutes to fry the cutlets which have been 
 already dressed ; ten minutes to fry those from 
 a . fresh chicken. Probable cost of chickens. 
 
POU 
 
 6J,7 
 
 POU 
 
 2s. . 6d. to 3s. 6d. each. Sufficient, allow two 
 outlets for eaclL:person. . - . 
 
 POULETTE, CUCUMBERS A LA. 
 
 (See Ctjoujibees a la Poulette.) ," ;'• . 
 
 POULETTE SAUCE. y 
 
 Take three ounces of fresh butter-; out from it 
 a little piece the size of a rnit, and melt the rest 
 in a stewpan. Mix three ounces of flour 
 smoothly with it, and stir the paste over the 
 fire for three minutes, then add . gradually a 
 pint of boiling stock. Stir the sauce over, tho 
 fire for a quarter of an hour. Draw it away. for a 
 minute that it may cool, slightly, and mix with 
 it the yolks of two eggs which have been beaten 
 up with two table-spopiifuls of thick preani. 
 Sinuner the sauce again until it begins to 
 thicken, lout it must not boil. Add to it a taljle- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley, a little pepper and 
 salt, and -a dozen button mushrooms, and pour 
 it into the tureen. Just before sendiiig to 
 table stir into it the little piece' of butter which 
 was reserved;, then serve immediately; To 
 prepaie the . mushrooms, remove the stalks and 
 peel them. Put them into a stewpan with a 
 table-spoonful of lemon-juice and a table-spoon- 
 ful of water. Shake them over the fire for a 
 minute or two till they have absorbed the juice. 
 Put an ounce of butter with them, and boil over 
 a quick fire for five minutes. Turn them into a 
 basin, cover them over, and they are ready for the 
 sauce. Time, altogether, half an hour. Probable 
 cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 POULTRY. ' 
 
 Under this head are included domestic birds 
 which are reared for the table, and for their 
 eggs, feathers, etc. The poultry of. this. country ■ 
 are the common domestic fowl, the turkey, the 
 duck, and the goose ; to which some would add 
 the guinea-fowl, and the peacock. 
 
 In the following" table, drawn up by Dr. 
 Kitchener, we have the particular seasons for 
 various kinds of poultry and game ; — 
 
 Poultry and Come into 
 Gams. SeasoTi. 
 
 C Spring 
 Chickens . . . -j Chickens, 
 
 (^April 
 PoulardeBwith\jjg^j,pj^ .. 
 
 ( Dearest 
 I in April, 
 
 ■ ■ j May, and 
 ' June 
 C Largest 
 
 . . ■] at Christ- 
 |,mas 
 
 Green Geese. . March 
 
 Geese . . . . September 
 
 Turkey Poults April 
 
 Turkeys . . . . September 
 
 Ducklings . . March . . 
 
 Ducks . . . . June 
 
 Wild Ducks.. September Till ditto 
 
 Fowls 
 
 Capons 
 
 Cmitinue. . Clieapest. 
 
 To be had) 
 through VNovember. 
 the year . . J 
 
 Till June , . December. 
 
 To be had ] 
 
 through V November, 
 the year. . ) 
 
 ( October 
 Ditto . . ..< and , N"o- 
 ( vember. 
 {™Septem-jnjt^„_ 
 
 Till February Ditto. 
 Till June . . Ditto. 
 Till March . . Ditto. 
 Till May . . Ditto. 
 Till February Ditto. 
 
 ("December; 
 
 ' but the 
 ,.-! flights. 
 
 I are un- 
 
 I- certain. 
 
 Wheatears- .. 
 
 Wild Pigeons 
 
 Tame ditto 
 Tame Eabbits 
 Wild ditto .. 
 Sucking Pigs 
 
 Leverets , 
 
 Hares 
 
 Partridges . . 
 Pheasants . . 
 Grouse . . 
 Moor Game . 
 Woodcock . 
 Snipes 
 
 July 
 March 
 
 June 
 
 /And during 
 ■ 1 August. 
 ,|TiuW|^„^„,,_ 
 
 March 
 
 September 
 
 Ditto 
 
 October 
 
 August 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 [November 
 
 All the year 
 . Till February 
 
 All the year 
 (Till Septem- 
 ' \ ber. 
 
 November, 
 
 Till March. 
 
 Widgeons 
 
 Teal 
 
 Plovers 
 
 Larks . . , , November 
 
 TjU March.. Ditto. 
 
 . For the month of January. — Capons, pou- 
 lardes, and fowls of all sizes ; chickens, turkeys, 
 larks, snipes; golden plovers are the best. The 
 well-known plovers' eggs are those of the black 
 plover. Woodcocks, tame pigeons, and squab 
 pigeons, wild ducks, widgeons, teal, dun-birds, 
 pintails (commonly called sea-pheasants). Tame 
 rabbits every month alike. , 
 
 Febetjabt.— All kinds of poultry peculiar to 
 January may be had in this month (wild fowl 
 upon- the decline), guinea - fowl, green geesfe^ 
 ducklings, etc. , . ": ,' ' 
 
 Mabch. — Guinea - fowl, etc. etc. etc., same 
 as -the preceding ihonths (the March flight 
 of wild fowl is generally known). Turkey 
 poults, turkeys, wild fowl (these may be ob- 
 tained, but are out of season). 
 
 ■ Apeil. — Same as March, spring chickens (no 
 wild fowl). 
 
 Mat, June. — Quails, pea-fowls, guinea-fowls, 
 turkey poults, ducklings; geese are considered 
 to be prime in these months; chickens to, he 
 had every month in the year. Plovers' eggs 
 come in season the beginning of April,. and. con- 
 tinue till the 5th or. 6th of Jane. Wild rabbits 
 in this month. 
 
 JuLX. — The same as June, ruffs and reeves. 
 
 August. — Pine Essex ducks ; are good this 
 month; quails are good till game is in season. 
 Other, things the, same as July. 
 
 Septembeb; — Turkeys, game, ducks and geese, 
 fowls and chickens, pigeons, rabbits, wild and 
 tame. 
 
 OcTOBEE. — Pheasants, etc. etc. etc., same as 
 September. 
 
 NovEMBEE. — All kinds of wild fowl; guinea- 
 fowls come in this month, turkeys of all sizes. 
 
 Decembbb. — Wild fowl" of every description ; 
 the largest turkeys and capons, and almost all 
 other kinds of poultry, to be had in- perfection 
 this month. Fowls and' chickens to be had 
 every day in the year. - 
 
 Fowls which are fattened artificially are by 
 some epicures preferred to those called barnrdoor 
 fowls : . indeed, we have heard such folk say, that 
 they should as soon think of ordering a barn- 
 door for dinner as a barn-door fowl. 
 
 The age of poultry makes all the difference 
 — nothing is tenderer than a. young chicken; 
 few things are tougher than an old cock or hen, 
 which is only fit to make, broth. The meridian 
 of perfection of poultry is Just before they have 
 come to their full growth, before they have 
 begun to harden 
 
POU 
 
 618 
 
 POU 
 
 Fowls must be killed a couple of days in 
 moderate and more in cold weather before they 
 are cooked, or they will eat tougij , a gpod 
 criterion of the ripeness of poultry for the. spit 
 is the ease with, which you can then pull out the 
 feathers : when a fowl is plucked leave a few to 
 help you to ascertain this 
 
 " It is sometimes taken for .granted by writers 
 on this subject," says one author, " that all the 
 birds which can be domesticated with advantage 
 have already been domesticated. The assump- 
 tion is quite gratuitous, and it might as well be 
 asserted that improvement had reached its ut- 
 most in any other direction. The concurrent 
 supposition that the common , domesticated 
 kinds were given to man at first as domestic 
 is likewise unsupported by evidence, although 
 the domestication of some of our poultry birds 
 must be referred to a very early date. . ^mong 
 the Anatidce some progress has recently been 
 made in the domestication of new kinds ; and a 
 beginning may even be said to have been made 
 as to soni3 additional gallinaceous birds." 
 
 POULTRY, A LA TARTARE. 
 
 Divide the remains of a turkey capon or any 
 poultry into neat joints, dip. these in egg and 
 bread-crumbs, then into clarified butter, then 
 into egg and bread-crumbs again, and set them 
 aside until wanted. Put the yolk of ah egg into 
 a bowl, and beat it for two Or three minutes. 
 Add a table-spoonful of dry mustard, » little 
 pepper and salt, and ^ small pinch of cayennCj 
 and, very gradually, eigljt table-stiooufuls of 
 sal^d-oil. The oil fihould be put in first in drpps 
 and afterwards in tea-spoonfuls, beating well 
 between each addition. Stir in a tea-spoon- 
 ful qf vinegar, and then more oir and' vine- 
 gar iij the same proportion until the saiice is 
 as tliick as custard. Taste it, and add a 
 larger proportion of vinegar if liked, but this 
 will make the sauce thinner, which is not de- 
 sirable. Add three shallots finely miiiced, a 
 tea-spoonful of chopped tarragon and chervil, 
 and five or six drops of the essence of an- 
 chovies. Pour this cold sauce upon a dish. 
 Broil the pieces of chicken over a clear fire till 
 they a,re brightly browned, lay them upon the 
 sauce, and garnish the dish with finely-minced 
 pickled gherkins. A fresh chicken may be 
 cut into neat joints and served in this way, 
 and if young, will be excellent. It should be 
 seasoned, dipped in egg and bread - crumbs, 
 sprinkled with clarified butter, dipped into egg 
 and bread-crumbs again, and broiled over a 
 clear xfiref or twenty-five minutes or half an hour. 
 Time to broil the joints, ten minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, exclusive of the cold chicken. Is. 4d. 
 
 POULTRY, BOILED, REMARKS ON. 
 
 In picking, be careful not to break the skin; 
 in drawing, not to break the gall-bladder. Xet 
 the fowls hang frpm two to five days, for the 
 most delicate ftfwl will be toiigh and thready if 
 too soon cooked. Wlien to be used, draw, 
 singe Tvithout blackening, and wash thoroughly, 
 passing a stream of water again and again 
 through the inside. Boiled fowls must be very 
 neatly trussed, as they have small aid from 
 ske\vers; and nothing is more indecorous than 
 to see unfortunates on a dinner-table, "whose 
 dying limbs no decent hands composed." Put 
 
 them on with plenty of water, a little warmed, 
 and in a floured cloth if you like. Having, as 
 usual, skimmed them very carefully, simmer by 
 the side of the _ fite from thirty-five ] minutes 
 to an hour and a' half, according to the size of 
 the fowl. A small tureen of very gdod barley 
 or rice broth, seasoned ' with shredded ' parsley 
 and young oriionSj may be added at the Same 
 time, if a shank or small cutlets of neck-mutton 
 be added ; which last may be frugally served in 
 the broth. Some good cooks put fresh, suet and 
 slices of peeled lenion to boil with fowls; if lean, 
 but larding is better ; white-legged fowls are 
 most worthy of attention, whether for eating or 
 appearance. 
 
 POULTRY, BONING OF. 
 
 It is scarcely likely that written instructiona 
 only will enable one to perform this difficult 
 operation; and far more would be learnt by 
 watching a competent person do the work once 
 than by, reading whole pages about it. Never- 
 theless, the knowledge how to bone meat and 
 poultry is a very desirable kind of knowledge 
 to attain, and one wHich can only be perfected 
 by jiractice. The thing to aim at, is to loosen 
 the flesh without injuring the skin, and this can 
 be done only by working the knife close to the 
 bone. A short, sharp-pointed knife is the most 
 suitable for the purpose. It is easiest to divide 
 the bird into joints, and remove the bone from 
 each joint separately. If this will not do, the 
 bird may be split open right down tte back, and 
 the bones cut out afterwards, and this plan 
 answers excellently for galantines and dishes of 
 a similar' description. The most difficult opera- 
 tion of all is to bone the bird without opening it. 
 Poulterers ^ and butchers are generally very 
 pleased when desired to do this work for their 
 customers. 
 
 POULTRY, BOUDINS, OR FRENCH PUDDINGS, 
 OF. 
 
 Half roast the bird. Take off the skin, draw 
 out the sinews, and mince and pound the .flesh 
 till 'it is quite smooth. Mix with it its bulk in 
 baked potatoes, dry and floury, season rather 
 highly" with salt, cayenne, and pounded mace, 
 and add as miich butter as there was meat. 
 Pound the forcemeat between every addition, 
 then mix in gradually three whole eggs' and the 
 yolks of two others,; together with one or two 
 table-spoonfuls of White sauce, chopped mush- 
 rooms, or cooked onions, but take care that the 
 mixture is not too moist. To ascertain this, 
 make up ' a small ball, drop it into boiling 
 water, and poach it for five minutes. If it 
 wants firmness, put amothcr egg to it; if it is 
 too firm, add a little sauce or water. Form the 
 forcemeat into small sausages or boudins, or 
 mould. them into the shape of an egg with a 
 tablcrspoon : drop them then into boiling water 
 and poach them. Serve the boudins piled high 
 on a dish, and pour brown Italian sauce, or 
 white sauce, round them. Before moulding the 
 boudins, put the' preparation on ice or in a 
 cool place for a while. Time, four or five 
 minutes to poach the boudins. 
 
 POULTRY, FATTENING OF, FOR THE TABLE. 
 
 They should be kept clean, warm, and dry. 
 For their food, mix oat and peas-meal with 
 
POU 
 
 619 
 
 POU 
 
 mashed potatoes, and a little kitchen-etuffi 
 Have their food always fresh and plentiful, but 
 do not cram them. Those who value colour as 
 much as quality sometimes fatten fowls on rice 
 swelled in sweet, skimmed milk. On the Con- 
 tinent they are fattened on barley-meal with 
 milk; or on - buckwheat,, and the flavour is ex- 
 cellent. Young pullets are used at any age. 
 
 POULTRY, FORCEMEAT OF. ,. 
 
 Take the desired quantity of cold cooked 
 poultry, pound it in a mortar, moisten it with 
 rich white sauce or cream, season it with mixed 
 herbs, and a little " mace, white pepper, and 
 cayenne, and" work a,ll together until quite 
 smooth. 
 
 POULTRY, FOR THE SICK. 
 
 Boil or roast a fowl in the usual way. As it 
 is not likely that a sick person will eat the whole 
 at one time, cut off as much as is required for 
 present use, and put the rest aside. As much as 
 it is thought will be used may be cut off as it is 
 wanted, and warmed up in two or three ways, as 
 follows. Wrap the joint in oiled paper, lay it 
 on a hot gridiron, and warm it gently over a 
 clear fire. Serve it with a little light gravy for 
 sauce. Or broil it without the paper. Or 
 put it' in a stewpan, barely cover with a little 
 cold broth, and heat it very gently over a 
 moderate fire. Or put an ounce of Carolina 
 ipice into a stewpan with half a pint of stock, 
 and let it simmer gently until the rice is quite 
 tender and the' liquid absorbed. If it is very 
 dry, put two more spopnf uls of stock WitTi it, lay 
 the piece of bird upon the rice, and let it remain 
 a few minutes until it is quite warm. Serve 
 the rice, fowl, and gravy together. When an 
 invalid finds it difficult to masticate food, the 
 fowl may be prepared as follows. Pick the 
 meat from a cold roast or boilSd chicken, and 
 carefully remove every little piece of skin, 
 ■gristle, or sinew. Mince finely, and, if liked, 
 season with pepper, salt, and pounded mace, 
 .generally speaking, however, it is best to 
 defer seasoning the food which is intended for 
 the sick, as their fancies vary so much, and 
 they very often exceedingly dislike flavoured 
 dishes. Put the bones and tfiUimings of the 
 bird into a stewpan, with a bunch of parsley 
 and a little pepper and salt, and let them simmer 
 gently until the gravy is considerably reduced. 
 When the mince is wanted, put a little of it into 
 a clean stewpan, strain a small quantity of 
 gravy over it, thicken it "or not, according to 
 taste, with a little flour and butter, let it get 
 quite hot, and sferve immediately. 
 
 POULTRY, HASHED. 
 
 Cut the remains of cold fowl or duck into neat 
 pieces ; put the trimmings into a stewpan with 
 a pint of stock, and let them stew. Cut an 
 onion into very small pieces, melt an ounce of 
 dripping and fry the onion in it a little ; put in 
 the pieces of fowl, season with salt and pepper ; 
 let them brown a little. Mix half an ounce of 
 butter and half an ounce of flour together, add 
 it to the poultry, pour in the stock gradually, 
 and let all- simmer gently- for ' about half an 
 hour. Take out the pieces^ place them on a hot 
 dish, moisten the liquor with a little more stock 
 or water if too' thick; let it boil up, add a 
 
 squeeze of lemon, skim, and strain over the dish. 
 Put sippets of toast round, and serve. 
 
 POULTRY, POTTED. 
 
 Poultry niay either be potted whole or cut 
 into neat joints and potted^ or the flesh may be 
 picked from the meat and pounded before it is 
 put into the, jars. In. any case the meat must 
 be thickly covered with butter, ' or it will not 
 keep. When the meat is not pounded, the joints 
 must be packed together as closely as possible, 
 or they will require a gotsd deal of butter. Birds 
 which are boned and stuffed are excellent 
 potted; they must be quite fresh, must be care- 
 fully cleaned, nicely seasoned, baked, and quite 
 cold before they are put into the jars, and the 
 butter must be- clarified before it is poured over 
 them'i If the meat is to be kept, the' jar should 
 be covered with bladder and-tied down closely. 
 Potted chicken is improved by 'pounding a little 
 fat and lean ham with the ineat. 
 
 POULTRY, PREPARED FOR COOKING. 
 
 Pluck off the feathers of poultry as soon as 
 possible after the birds are killed. When they 
 become cold it is difficult to draw out the quills 
 without tearing the skin, and so spoiling the 
 look of the birds. The down that remains after 
 the feathers are removed is afterwards to be 
 singed off with lighted paper. In the case of 
 some birds, one must draw out the sinews of the 
 leg : this is done by binding the joint close to 
 the claw, and fastening the claw in a vice ; pull 
 the bird then strongly, and the sinews will give 
 way. The next operation is to empty the crop. 
 Cut a slit in the back of the' neck, so as to. open 
 into the crop. Remove the contents through 
 this slit. Open the vent, and clean out the 
 entrails. Take care not to break the gall- 
 bladder; if it is not reinoved carefully its 
 contents will give a bitterness to the fiavpur of 
 the liver which washing ''will hardly remove. 
 When the bird is drawn, separate the liver and 
 gizzard from the rest of the entrails, and put 
 them to be cleansed in cold water. Cut off the 
 necks of fowls, ducks, or geese, close to the 
 body. Befo.re doing this, push up the skin that 
 hangs loosely upon the neck aibove the part at 
 which it is to be cut off. After cutting off the 
 neck, draw the skin down, and wrap it over the 
 end of the neck to hide it from view. Before 
 fastening it down, pour cold wa,ter through the 
 body of the fowl. Then break the two bones 
 which lead to the pinions. Now "truss the bird. 
 For roasting fowls, trussing is accomplished by 
 cutting off the first joint only of the legs, and 
 by turning them down close to the sides towards 
 the vent, and fastening them by a game-skewer 
 passed from one to the other. Pass another 
 slight skewer through the joint of one wing, 
 into the body, and through to the opposite 
 wing. Place the liver and gizzard, one under 
 each- wing. To truss foivls for boiling, cut off 
 the whole of the leg, except the thigh, the end 
 bones of which tuck into the apron. Set up 
 the breast to look plump ; place the wings with 
 the liver and gizzard as if for roasting. Tie 
 the whole in proper form with a slight string, 
 which befpre serving is to be cut and removed. 
 To truss a goose, cut off the legs, feet, and 
 pinions. These, with the neck, head, liver, and 
 gizzard, are what are called giblets. The head 
 
POU 
 
 620 
 
 POW 
 
 of a turkey is not cut off in trussing, but twisted 
 round one of the wings. 
 
 POULTRY, RAGOUT OF. 
 
 This recipe may be followed with almost any 
 kind of poultry or game. Partially roast the 
 bird in the usual way. When it is half cooked, 
 take it down, and, if, liked, divide it into joints, 
 or it may be stewed whole. Put it into a stew- 
 pan with any bones or ,trimmings that may be at 
 hand, a large onion stuck with two cloves, the 
 thin rind of a quarter of a lemon rolled, half a 
 tea-spoonful of allspice, half a tea-spoonful of 
 whole pepper, as much stock — or, failing this, 
 water — as will cover the ingredients, and a little 
 salt if required. Simmer all very gently till 
 the fowl is done enough, then pour off the 
 liquor, and keep the bird hot. Strain the 
 gravy, and skim the fat from it. Dissolve two 
 ounces of butter in a stewpan, and mix smoothly 
 with it as much flour as will make it into a 
 paste, add gradually the hot liquor, a dessert- 
 spoonful of lemon-juice, and a glass of port or 
 claret. Let it boil a minute or two. Put the 
 meat on a dish, pour the hot gravy over it, 
 garnish with toasted sippets, and. serve very 
 hot. If liked, chilli vin^ar.can be substituted 
 for the lemon-juice. Ih'e remains of cold 
 poultry may be served in the same way, but 
 the meat will not be so succulent as it would 
 be if it were only partially roasted before 
 it was stewed. Time, _ varying with the size 
 and age of the bird. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 POULTRY, RAGOUT OF (another way). 
 
 This is a general recipe, and may be used to 
 ragout poultry, pigeons, rabbits, etc. Half roast 
 the thing which is to be dressed as a ragout. 
 Carve it into joints, as at table, and stew in good 
 stock, with a couple of onions, two dozen corns 
 of allspice and black pepper, a few cloves, a 
 piece of lemon-peel, and for some things a stick 
 of celery, for others a couple of bay-leaves. Skim 
 the stew, and, keeping the lid quite close, let it 
 simmer for three-quarters of an hour or more, 
 according to the age and size of the birds. 
 Strain off the gravy, leaving the fowls in the 
 stewpan to keep hot. Take off the cake of fat 
 which will soon form, and thicken the gravy 
 with brown roux, or butter rolled in browned 
 flour till it is as thick and stiff as pancake batter. 
 Add to this a glass of white wine and the squeeze 
 of a lemon. Dish the fowls, ducks, or rabbits, 
 or whatever your dish may be, and pour the 
 sauce hot over them. The sauce must be 
 well worked, and ought to be smooth, thick, 
 and well coloured. It may be made without 
 wine. 
 
 POULTRY, ROASTED. 
 
 Poultry requires to be plucked and drawn 
 carefully before bein;j roasted. It is a good 
 thing for the cook to know how to do this, as 
 geese and ducks may often be bought at less 
 expense uuplucked and untrussed than when 
 ready for the spit, besides which the feathers, if 
 trimmed and dried in the oven, may be used to 
 make pillows and cushions. Geese and ducks 
 are generally stuffed with sage and onions ; tur- 
 keys with veal forcemeat or with pork sausage- 
 meat. 
 
 POULTRY, TO MAKE TENDER. 
 
 " If obliged to cook poultry immediately after 
 killing," says the author of a collection of 
 French recipes, " to make it tender, do as fol- 
 lows. Steep it in boiling water, and feather 
 it in the hot water ; or before you kill the poul- 
 try, be it turkey or goose, make.it swallow a 
 spoonful of vinegar. These methods will make 
 the poultry as tender as if killed some days 
 previous to being dressed." 
 
 POUND CAKE. 
 
 Beat a pound of fresh butter to a cream. Beat 
 into it a pound of fine sugar pounded and sifted, 
 upon part of which, before it was pounded, the 
 rind of two oranges or lemons has been rubbed, 
 a pound of dried flour, a pinch of salt, eight 
 eggs which have been thoroughly whisked,. the 
 whites and yolks separately, and a glass of wine, 
 brandy, or rose-water. Beat the mixture for 
 twenty minutes, and j)our it into a tin which has 
 been lined with buttered paper. Bake in a. well- 
 heated though not fierce oven, and if . possible 
 do not increase the heat until the cake is bake^. 
 Though the cake must be turned about that 
 it may- be equally browned, the oven door 
 must not be opened oftener than is absolutely 
 necessary; and if the cake gets too highly 
 coloured before it is done enough, a., piece of 
 paper should be laid upon it. In order to as- 
 certain whether it is sufficiently baked, put a 
 skewer to the bottom of it, and it this comes 
 out dry and clean the cake is done; if moist, 
 return the tin at once to the oven. When 
 the cake is done it should be turned out at 
 once, and placed upon its side, or else on a 
 sieve which has been turned upside down, 
 until it is cold, and the paper should not be 
 removed until the cake is to be used. This 
 cake may be made either larger or smaller by 
 increasing or decreasing the quantity of the in- 
 gredients in their due proportions. It may be 
 made less rich by using a larger quantity of 
 flour. A pound of picked and dried currants is 
 frequently added to the other ingredients, and 
 the flavour may be -varied by the addition of 
 candied peel, lemon or orange, blanched and 
 chopped almonds, pistachio kernels, dried 
 cherries, or plums. Time to bake, one hour and 
 a half to two hours. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. 
 
 POUTARG. 
 
 This is a kind of dried and pressed caviare. It 
 is prepared with the roes of mullet or tunny, and 
 is much in demand in Italy and the East. It is 
 served as a hors d'oeuvre, cut into thin slices, and 
 seasoned with oil, pepper, and lemon-juice. 
 
 POWDER, BAKING. 
 
 (S&e Pastky Povstdee or Baking Powdee.)' 
 
 POWDERS, GINGER BEER. 
 
 Take one to two drachms of white sugar, 
 powdered, twenty-six grains of bicarbonate of 
 soda, six grains of the finest Jamaica ginger, 
 powdered, and one drop of essence of lemon. 
 Mix these ingredients, and wrap the powder in 
 blue paper. Take thirty-five grains of powdered 
 tartaric acid, or thirty grains of powdered citric 
 acid, and wrap in white paper. To use, dissolve 
 each colour in about half a glassful of water; 
 mix the two, and drink wJiilst effervescing. 
 
"POW 
 
 621 
 
 PRA 
 
 POWDERS, GINGER BEER (another way). 
 
 Take sixteen ounces of wliite sugar, powdered, 
 one ounce of the finest Jamaica ginger, five 
 ounces of bicarbonate of soda, and fifty or sixty- 
 drops of essence of lemon. Mix, and divide the 
 powder between ninety-six blue papers. Put 
 six ounces of tartaric acid into the same number 
 of white papers. Use as directed in the pre- 
 ceding recipe. 
 
 POWDERS, LEMONADE. 
 
 Take four pounds of white sugar, powdered, 
 an ounce and a half of citric or tartaric acid, 
 and a quarter of an ounce of essence of lemon. 
 Mix well, and bottle for use. To make a glass 
 of lemonade, take one to two dessert-spoonfuls 
 of the powder. 
 
 POWDERS, LEMONADE (another way). 
 
 Powder half an ounce (apothecaries' weight) of 
 citric or tartaric acid with three ounces of loaf 
 sugar and a few drops of oil of lemon-peel. 
 Rub these ingredients thoroughly together in 
 a marble mortar, and divide the powder into 
 twelve' parts. For use, dissolve one of these in 
 half a pint of cold water. 
 
 POWDERS, LEMONADE, EFFERVESCING. 
 
 Take one pound of powdered white sugar, 
 a quarter of a pound of bicarbonate of soda, and 
 one and a half drachms of essence of lemon. 
 Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and divide 
 them between six dozen papers. Take five 
 ounces of tartaric or citric acid, and divide it 
 between the same number of white papers. 
 Use as in the case of Ginger Beer Powders (see 
 
 PoWDEBS, GiNGEB BeEE). 
 POWDER^;, SEIDLITZ. 
 
 The cooling and refreshing drinks prepared 
 with these powders are excellent both as refriger- 
 ant draughts and aperient medicines. Each drink 
 requires two powders — an alkaline, generally 
 put up in blue paper, and an acid, contained in 
 a white one. The alkaline powder consists of 
 two drachms of powdered Eochelle salts, and 
 half a drachm of bicarbonate of soda, mixed 
 together; and the acid paper of half a drachm 
 of tartaric acid. The quantity of water em- 
 ployed is generally about a third of a pint. The 
 contents of the blue paper ■ should first be 
 thoroughly dissolved in the water, then the 
 contents of the white paper added, and the mix- 
 ture drunk while effervescing. 
 
 POWDERS, SHERBET. 
 
 Prepare in the same w^ay as Lemonade Pow- 
 ders, varying the flavouring ingredients to suit 
 the particular case. 
 
 POWDERS, SODA-WATER. 
 
 Place thirty grains of bicarbonate of soda in 
 each blue paper, and twenty-five grains of tar- 
 taric acid or twenty-four grains of citric acid 
 in each white paper. To use, empty the con- 
 tents of each paper separately into about half a 
 glassful or water; mix the two and drink at 
 once. This is a cooling, wholesome summer 
 drink, but it should not be partaken of to excess. 
 
 POWDERS, SPRUCE BEER. 
 
 Prepare in the same way as Ginger Beer Pow- 
 ders, but, instead of powdered ginger, use three 
 to six drops of the essence of spruce. 
 
 PRAIRIE HENS. 
 
 Prairie hens may be treated either like a fowl 
 or like a pheasant. The insides must be washed, 
 and a rinse with soda or potash is a good 
 sweetener. If prepared like a fowl, the usual 
 adjuncts are required; if like a pheasant, a 
 brown sauce, with a little claret, and a dash 61 
 orange- or lemon-juice, is a good ' accompani- 
 ment. The bird is improved by larding, and 
 should be well basted. Time to cook, an hour 
 or more, according to size. Probable cost, un- 
 certain. 
 
 PRAWN. 
 
 The prawn is a delicate shell-fish, very much 
 like a shrimp, but larger and more delicate in 
 flavour. It varies very much in price. 
 
 PRAWN AND LOBSTER SOUP. 
 
 Take a freshly-boiled hen lobster, remove the 
 meat from the tail and claws, cut it' into neat 
 square pieces, and put these aside. Pick fifty 
 prawns, put the head and bruised shells of the 
 -lobster and' the shells of the prawns into' a stew- 
 . pan with a qiiart of stock, a sliced onion, and an 
 . ounce of butter. Let them simmer gently for 
 an hour, then pour over them an additional 
 two quarts of stock. Mix six ounces of flour 
 with a little cold stock, add this to the soup, 
 and stir until it begins to thicken. Draw . it 
 back, set it by the side of the fire, let it simmer 
 gently for half an hour, then press the whole 
 through a fine sieve. Return the soup to the 
 stewpan and let it boil ; skim carefully, and add 
 whatever seasoning is required. Put in the 
 picked prawns and the lobster meat, let them 
 get quite hot, add a breakfast-cupful of thick 
 cream, and serve. Time, two hours or more. 
 Sufiicieut for ten or twelve persons. 
 
 PRAWN CANAPES. 
 
 Take half a dozen small halfpenny rolls. Cut 
 them into halves, scoop out all the crumb, 
 and let the crusts get thoroughly dry. Mean- 
 while, fillet half a dozen anchovies, and cut 
 them into neat pieces along with half a pint of 
 picked prawns, two small gherkins, two truffles, 
 and a head of white celery. Put the lot into a 
 basin with a little Tabtab Sauce, and mix all 
 together, then fill the crusts of -the rolls with 
 this preparation. Cover with thin circular pieces 
 of bright aspic jelly, and dish up on a napkin. 
 
 PRAWN CUTLETS. 
 
 Take as many prawns as you require cutlets, 
 remove the shells and heads, but leave the tails. 
 Slit the prawns down the middle, and gently 
 beat them flat with a rolling-pin; season with 
 salt and pepper, brush them with the yolk of 
 egg, and dredge with flour. Fry in butter over 
 a moderate fire to a rich bright brown. Fry a 
 few sprigs of parsley in the same butter, and 
 lay them on the prawns as a garnish. 
 
 PRAWN PATTI ES. 
 
 Shell three dozen prawns, and pound them in 
 a mortar, adding by degrees half an ounce of 
 butter, a table-spoonful of cream, a dessert- 
 spoonful of anchovy paste, and the yolk of an 
 egg ; season with cayenne, and mix thoroughly. 
 Roll some good paste out rather thinly, stamp 
 out some rounds with a two-inch cutter ; " put 
 about a tea-spoonful of the mixture in the centr* 
 
PRA 
 
 622 
 
 PRA 
 
 of half the number of rounds; wet the edges, 
 place the other pieces of paste one on the top of 
 each; press down the edgesj then br.ush over 
 with egg, crumb thesm, and fry in hot fat to a 
 golden colour. Drain, serve up in a circle on a 
 hot dish, and garnish with fried parsley. 
 
 PRAWN PIE. , 
 
 Have as many well-cleaned prawns as will 
 nearly fill the pie-dish. Season vrith pounded 
 mace, cloves, a little cayenne or chilli vinegar. 
 Put some butter in the dish, and cover witn a 
 light puff-paste. The pie will take less than 
 three-quarters of an hour to bake. 
 
 PRAWNS (4 la Fran^aise). 
 
 Put four ounces of butter,' the juice of a 
 lemon, and a sprinkling of cayenne into a sauce- 
 pan, then put in a pint of picked prawns ; allow 
 them to cook until the butter begins to turn 
 pink, then add half a cupful of white sauce. 
 Serve on toast with a slice of lemon. 
 
 PRAWNS (4 la Mantalini). 
 
 Mince together finely one pint of picked 
 prawns, a tomato, and half a pound of mush- 
 rooms. Put them into a saucepan with three 
 ounces of butter, a dash of cayenne, and the 
 juice of a lemon. Let- this come to a boil, and 
 serve on hot toast with a slice of lemon. 
 
 PRAWNS AND SHRIMPS, CHOOSING OF. 
 
 When fresh, prawns have a sweet flavour and 
 a bright colour, and are firm and stiff. Shrimps 
 are of the prawn kind, and are to be judged by 
 the same rules. 
 
 PRAWNS, BOILED. 
 
 Put two table-spoonfuls of salt into half a 
 gallon of water, and bring the liquid to the boil. 
 Throw in the prawns, and let them remain for 
 about sight minutes. They are done enough 
 when they change colour. Drain them on a 
 sieve, and let them cool. They should be served 
 while fresh. Stale prawns which are not too 
 stale will be improved if they are thrown for one 
 minute into fast-boiling, water, before they are 
 served. Prawns are best when they have no 
 spawn under their tails. 
 
 PRAWNS, BUTTERED. 
 
 Pick a pint of freshly-boiled prawns. Bruise 
 the shells, and put them into a stewpan with a, 
 breakfast-cupful of stock, and a little cayenne 
 and grated nutmeg. Let them simmer for 
 twenty minutes; strain the liquid, and thicken 
 it with flour and butter to the consistency of 
 thick cream. Put in the picked prawns, . and 
 heat them thoroughly. Serve on a hot dish, and 
 garnish with toasted sippets. Time, three 
 minutes to heat the prawns. Suflcient for three 
 or four persons. 
 
 PRAWNS, COLD, TO DISH. 
 
 Place a cup upside down in the centre of a 
 small dish, and cover it neatly with a white napr 
 kin. Put the prawns round it, and garnish with 
 plenty of parsley. Or cut. a slice from a lemon 
 or orange, so that it may stand firmly. Place it 
 on a napkin, and arrange the prawns prettjly 
 upon it, putting a little fresh parsley between 
 the rounds. The prawns may be kept in posi- 
 tion by the horns being stuck lightly into the 
 lemon. Garnish with parsley, 
 
 PRAWNS, CURRIED. 
 
 Melt three ounces of butter in a saucepan ; 
 when it boils put in two ounces of onions, snced, 
 and frythem brown, then add a dessert-spoonful 
 of curry-powder; stir well, and put in half a 
 pint of picked prawns. Keep stirring until 
 well browned, then add half a tea-spoonful of 
 salt and a quarter of ^ pifit of hot water. Cover 
 the pan, and let it simmer for ten minutes. The 
 curry will then be ready. Serve with a border 
 of rice. 
 
 PRAWNS, CURRIED (another way). 
 
 Mince an onion finely, and steam it in a little 
 butter until it is quite soft. Rub it through a 
 fine sieve, and mix With the pulp a table-spoon- 
 ful of the rasped meat of a cocoa-nut, and a 
 table-spoonful of curry-paste or powder — paste 
 is much the better of the two. Add gradually 
 a pint of good broth and half a stick of cinna- 
 mon, and let the sauce simmer for a quarter of 
 an hour. Put in a pound of prawns weighed 
 after they have been shelled, and let them 
 simmer for a few minutes. About ten minutes 
 before the curry is taken from the fire, mix a 
 tea-spoonful of flour Smoothllf with the cocoa- 
 nut milk, and add it to the sauce. Stir 
 gently over the fire for five minutes, squeeze 
 the juice of a lemon into the curry, and 
 serve very hot. Send boiled rice to table on 
 a separate dish. Time, one hour. Probable 
 cost, prawns, variable. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. (See also PbawNs, Malay 
 
 CUERT OF.) 
 
 PRAWNS IN ASPIC. 
 
 Prepare some Aspic Jelly; take some shelled 
 prawns; fill some dariole moulds with cold 
 water, empty them, put a little aspic jelly at 
 the bottom of each; when partly set put in one 
 or two prawns, and fill up with the jelly. When 
 set, turn them out on a dish, put a little cress 
 round, and serve. 
 
 PRAWNS IN JELLY (a pretty supper dish). 
 
 Take a quart of stiff calf's foot stock free 
 from fat and sediment, and put it into a stew- 
 pan with half a dozen shallots, each one with a 
 clove stuck in it, two bay-leaves, half a blade 
 of mace, and a sprig of thyme. Let these 
 simmer gently until the stock is pleasantly 
 flavoured, then strain it into a bowl, and let it 
 cool. Whisk the whites of two eggs with a 
 little cold water. Stir this briskly into the 
 stock, put it back into the saucepan, add the 
 crushed shells of the eggs, and let the stock boil, 
 but on no account stir it after it begins to boil 
 up. Keep it boiling for a quarter of an hour, 
 then lift it from the fire, and let it stand to 
 settle for another quarter of an hour. Strain it 
 through a jelly-bag until it is clear. Pour a 
 little of the jelly into a damp mould. When it 
 is firm, lay some prawns upon it with their backs 
 downwards, and pour more jelly over them. 
 Bepeat until the mould is full, and be careful 
 that each layer of jelly is set before another is 
 put in, . Put the jelly in a cool place, and turn 
 it out before serving. If liked, the jelly may 
 be made with isinglass or gelatine dissolved in 
 water instead of calf's foot stock. Time, an 
 hour to make the jelly. Sufficient for a three- 
 pint mould. 
 
PRA 
 
 623 
 
 PRE 
 
 PRAWMS, MAL^Y CURRY OF. 
 
 • Pick some ptawns -from their Shells; let them 
 be a pint when prepared. Easp the half of a 
 large cocoa-nut Intotwo spoonfuls of hot water, 
 and then smooth it through a sieve.. Stew the 
 prawns? vesy gMiitly with a shredded onion and 
 enough good mutton or veal broth to cover. See 
 that the broth is. well , seasoned, ^nd put in, a 
 stick ©f cinnamon. When the prawns are get- 
 ting tender, mix two dessert-spoonfuls. of curry- 
 powder in a little cold broth, add it to the rest 
 in the stewpan, and simmer lor- a few minutes. 
 Take out the prawns, and strain the gravy over 
 them into a clean pan ; make hot, and add the 
 rasped cocoa-nut; aixd flour enough to, thicken, 
 which should be mixed, with some of the nut- 
 milk. Let all simmer gently for a few minutes, 
 and serve with juice of lemon and boiled rice 
 in a separate dish. Time, one hour. Suiftcient 
 for a dish. 
 
 PRAWN SOUP. 
 
 Mince finely two onions, a carrot,, and half a 
 dozen of the outer sticks of a head of celery, and 
 put them into, a ste.^pan with three, ounces of 
 fresh better, a bay-leaf, a bunch of parsley, and 
 a sprig of thyme, and let them steam gently for 
 a qu^arter of an houj. , Sh^ke the saucepan 
 every now and then to keep them from burning. 
 Pour over them three pints of broth or water, 
 and mix this gradually with four ounces of flour 
 mixed to a smooth paste with a little cold 
 water ; stir the liquid over the fire till it boils, 
 then draw it back, let it ^imnier gently for a 
 quarter of an hour, and strain. Pick out the 
 tails of fifty prawns, and put the bodies and 
 shells into a, stewpan with a little stock and a 
 glassful of light wine. Let them stew for a 
 quarter of an hour ; then pass the liquid through 
 a fine sieve, and mix it with the soup. Season 
 with a little cayenne," and add a table-spoon- 
 ful of mushroom ketchup, a dessert-spoonful of 
 lemon-juice, and a tea'Spoonful' of anchovy 
 sauce. Put in the picked prawns, let them boil 
 for five or six minutes, and serve very hot; 
 Time, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 
 variable. Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 PRAWN SOUP (another way). 
 ■ Prepare two quarts of stock according to the 
 directions given in the last recipe. Picjc the tails 
 from a hundred freshly-boiled prawns, and put 
 the shells and bodies iiito a;' stewpan with a 
 /quarter of a pint of vinegar, a quarter of a pint 
 /of stock, and a blade of mace. Let them simmer 
 ; / for twenty minutes. Press the prawns through 
 I I a. sieve,' and with them the crumb of a French 
 / / roll which ' has been softened with a little of 
 / / the stock. Mix the liquid with the soup, and 
 add a little lemon-juice and Harvey's sauCe, 
 with a tearspoonful of anchovy, and a pinch 
 , ,' of cayenne; boil for five minutes; add the 
 shelled prawns, and, when they are quite hot, 
 serve the soup in a tureen. . 'fiine, altogiether, 
 about an hour and a half. Probable cost, un- 
 certain. Sufficient for eigfht or nine persons. 
 
 PRAWNS, POTTED. 
 
 Pick fresh prawns after th«y have been boiled. 
 Cut them lightly, and pound them in a marble 
 mortar with a small quantity of fresh butter, a 
 seasoning of cayenne and powdered mace or 
 
 grated nutmeg, and a little salt, if necessary, 
 but it is probable that they will not require it^ 
 Put them into jars, cover with Clarififed butter 
 lukewarm, and'tie a bladder securely over them. 
 Time to boil, eight minutes. 
 
 PRAWNS, SHELLING OF. 
 
 Hold the. head of the prawn firmly. in the 
 right hand and the. tail in. the left. Straighten 
 the body of the fish, and bring the thumbs near 
 one another. Break the shell of, the, tail with 
 a little twist of the right' hand, then draw the 
 shell off. It will come off, almost whole, a very 
 small piece only being left. Unless, the, prawns 
 are fresh, they will not shell easily. 
 
 PRAWNS, SHRIMPS, OR CRAYFISH, POTTED. 
 
 Boil them in water with plenty of salt in it. 
 When you have picked them, powder them with 
 a little beaten mace, or grated nutmeg, or all- 
 spice, and pepper aind salt ; add a little cold 
 butter, and pound all well together in a marble 
 mortar till of the consistency of paste. Put it 
 into pots, pour clarified butter on top, alid cover 
 the vessels oyer with wetted bladder. 
 
 PRAWNS, STEWED. 
 
 Pick the tails from a pint of freshly - boiled 
 prawns. Bruise the shells, and put them with the 
 heads into a saucepan with a pint of> white 
 wine and water, then add a dessert-spoonful of 
 vinegar, half a blade .of. mace, and a little 
 cayenne. Let them simmer gently, for half an 
 hour. Strain the liquid, put it back, into the 
 saucepan, thicken with a tea-spoonful of flour 
 mixed smoothly with, a little butter, amd boil 
 till it is of the consistency of thick cream. Put 
 in the tails of the. prawns, and , let them get 
 quite hot. Toast a slice of the orumbof bread, 
 and cut it into strips. Lay these in their 
 eriginal form, on a dish, pour the stewed 
 prawns over them, and, serve very hot. Gar- 
 nish with parsley. Time, three or four minutes 
 to heat, the prawns. Sjifficient for four or five 
 persons. , ., , .::■ 
 
 PRAWNS, TO BOIL. 
 
 Have ready a pan of fast-boiling water, salted 
 iii'the proportion of, a table-spoonful of salt to 
 half a gallon of water. Throw in three dozen 
 live prawns, and boil them very quickly for 
 eight minutes. Take them out, drain them on a 
 Soft cloth, and set them aside until quite cold. 
 
 PRESERVED FRUIT IN PASTRY. 
 
 Preserved fruits ought not to be baked long; 
 iiideed, those that have been preserved with 
 their full proportion of sugar require no baking. 
 Bake the crust in a tin shape, and add the fruit 
 afterwards; or put the frmt in a small dish or 
 tart pan, and bake the. covers on a tin, cut ac- 
 cording to taste. 
 
 PRESERVED FRUIT, OMELET OF (a French recipe). 
 Beat the whites and yolks of six eggs 
 separately; add a little zest of lemon to the 
 latter ; then mix the two together, beating them 
 well, with a little cream, and two taible-spoon- 
 fuls of apple marmalade, apricot, gooseberry, or 
 any fruit you have. Pour the mixture into the 
 pan; sugar it when in the pari;, turn it topsy^ 
 turvy into a plate ; put it on a dish, cover the 
 surface thickly with powdered sugar, and brown 
 it with the salamander. 
 
pgi 
 
 624' 
 
 f>RI 
 
 PRESERVE OR JAM OMELET. 
 
 Beat thoroughly the yolks of six eggs. Add 
 three ounces of sugar, and if any flavouring is 
 desired be careful that it harmonises with the 
 jam that is to be used. A strawberry omelet may 
 be flavoured with orange-flower" ' wate'r,' an 
 apple-marmalade omelet with grated lemon- 
 rind. Beat the whites of the eggs to a firm 
 froth, and just before the omelet is poured into 
 the pan mix them with the rest. Dissolve two 
 ounces of butter in the omelet-pan, pour in the 
 mixture, and fry the omelet in the usual way 
 (see Omelet). Before folding it, lay two or 
 three table-spoonfuls of jam in the centre. 
 Sprinkle a little sugar over the top, candy by 
 holding over it a salamander or red-hot fire- 
 shovel, and serve immediately, before the- omelet 
 can fall. Time, four to six minutes. Probable 
 cost, lOd. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 PRESERVES, FRUIT. 
 
 Home-made jam is both a convenience and a 
 luxury. When well and carefully made it is not 
 only superior to that which is usually offered 
 for sale, but very much more economical also", 
 and no store-closet can be said to be well filled 
 which does not boast a goodly show of neatly- 
 labelled jars of preserves. In making jam, the 
 first thing to be looked after is the fruit. As 
 a general rule, this should be fully ripe, fresh, 
 sound, and scrupulously clean and dry. It 
 should. be gathered in the morning of a sunny 
 day, as it will then possess its finest flavour. 
 The best sugar is the cheapest; indeed, there is 
 no economy in stinting the sugar, either as to 
 quality or necessary quantity, for inferior sugar 
 is wasted in scum, and the jam will not- keep 
 unless a sufficient proportion of sugar is boiled 
 with the fruit. At the same time too large a 
 proportion of sugar will destroy the natural 
 flavour of the fruit, and in all probability make 
 the jam candy. The sug;ar should be dried and 
 broken up into small pieces before it is mixed 
 with the fruit. If it is left in large lumps it 
 will be a long time in dissolving, and if it is 
 crushed to powder it will make the jam look 
 thick instead of clear and bright. The quantity 
 to be used must depend in every instance on the 
 nature of the fruit, and will be found in the 
 several recipes throughout this work. Fruit 
 is generally boiled in a brass or copper pan 
 uncovered, and this should be kept perfectly 
 bright and clean. Great care should be taken 
 not to place the pan flat upon the fire, as this 
 will be likely to make the jam burn to the 
 bottom of the pan. If it cannot be placed upon 
 a stove-plate, it should be hung a little distance 
 above the fire. Glass jars are much the best 
 for jam, as through them the condition of the 
 fruit can be observed. Whatever jars are used, 
 however, the jam should be examined every 
 three weeks for the first two months, and if 
 there are any signs of either mould or fer- 
 mentation, it should be boiled over again. The 
 best way to cover jam is to lay a piece of paper 
 the size of the jar upon the jam, to stretch over 
 the top a piece of writing-paper or tissue paper 
 which has been dipped in white of egg, and to 
 press the sides closely down. When dry, this 
 paper will be stiff and tight like a drum. The 
 strict economist may use gum dissolved in water 
 
 instead of white of egg. The object aimed at 
 is to exclude the air entirely. Jam should be 
 stored in a cool dry place, but not in one into 
 which fresh air never enters. Damp has a ten- 
 dency to make the fruit go mouldy, and heat 
 to make it ferment. Some cooks cover the jam 
 as soon as possible after it is poured out, but 
 the generallyrapproved plan is to let the fruit 
 grow cold before covering it. In making jam, 
 continual watchfulness is required, as the result 
 of five minutes' inattention may be loss and dis- 
 appointment. There are other ways of preserving 
 fruit besides making it into jam, such as drying, 
 bottling, and candying. The recipes for these 
 processes are given in their proper places. 
 {See Classified Index at end of Dictionary.) 
 
 PRESERVING-PANS. 
 
 Used for boiling sugar and syrups. They 
 are usually made of copper or brass, and require 
 a well-regulated heat, for which charcoal stoves 
 and hot plates are very convenient. 
 PRESSED BEEF. 
 
 Take any number of pounds of the brisket of 
 beef, as lean as can be obtained, and nicely 
 salted. The beef may be bought salted of the 
 butcher, or it may be salted at home. To do 
 this, dissolve a quarter of an ounce of saltpeti-e 
 in a little water,, and mix with it two pounds 
 of common salt and half a pound of moist sugar. - 
 Rub this pipkle into the meat every morning 
 for eight days, and turn it over each day. Take 
 it from the pan, drain, and bone it. The 
 butcher will do this if desired. Put it into a 
 saucepan with as much lukewarm water as will 
 quite cover it, and put with it an onion stuck 
 with two cloves, a large carrot, and a bay-leaf. 
 Let the water boil up once, skim carefully, then 
 draw the saucepan quite to the side of the fire, 
 and simmer the meat as gently as possible till it 
 is done enough. Lift the saucepan quite away 
 from the fire, and leave the meat in the liquor 
 for half an hour. Take it out carefully, drain 
 it, place it between two flat dishes, and put a 
 heavy weight on the top. Let it remain until 
 the next day. Take off the weight, and glaze 
 the beef. The easiest way of doing this is 
 to buy a quarter of a pound of glaze of the 
 grocer. This is sold in skins like sausages, and 
 may be bought for 8d. or 9d. Peel the skin 
 from an inch of this glaze, and put it into a jar 
 with a table-spoonful of cold water. Place the 
 jar in a saucepan with about two inches of boil- 
 ing water, and let it steam until the glaze is dis- 
 solved. The water in the saucepan must not 
 be allowed to flow over into the jar. Take an 
 ordinary gum brush which has been soaked in 
 hot water to make it soft, and with it cover the 
 surface of the meat entirely with the dissolved 
 glaze. It ought to be laid lightly on rather 
 than brushed on, so as not to show the marks of 
 the brush. When one coating, of glaze is quite 
 stiff, give the beef a second one, and, if liked, a 
 third. P'laee the joint on a dish, garnish with 
 parsley, and it is ready for serving. Time to 
 simmer, half an hour per pound from the time 
 . the water boils after the meat is put in. Prob- 
 able cost, 9d. or lOd. per pound. 
 
 PRICKLY PEAR, OR INDIAN FIG. 
 
 This fruit is in the form of a fig or pear, with 
 cli'ifters of small spines on the skin.which enclose 
 
PRI 
 
 623 
 
 PRI 
 
 a fleshy pulp of a red or purple colour, with an 
 agreeable subacid flavour. The plant which 
 produces it is a native of Virginia and Bar-, 
 bary. In countries where the fruit abounds 
 it is considered very wholesome, and though 
 the taste is not agreeable to all persons 
 till they have eaten of it several times, yet 
 they soon become very fond of it. It is now 
 naturalised in many parts of the South of 
 Europe, and North of Africa, and in other 
 warm countries. The prickly pear in some 
 countries is extensively employed as an article 
 of diet. It is imported into Britain to a small 
 extent from the Mediterranean. In the South 
 of England the plant grows in the open air, and 
 occasionally ripens its fruit. 
 
 PRINCE CONSORT'S PUDDING. 
 
 Rub three or four large lumps of sugar upon 
 the rind of a small lemon until all the yellow 
 part is taken off, then crush them to powder, 
 with a little additional sugar to make up the 
 weight to two ounces. Grate finely six ounces 
 of stale spongecake, pour over it half a pint of 
 boiling milk or cream, and add the flavoured 
 sugar and a pinch of salt. Let the crumbs 
 soak until the milk is cold, then beat the 
 mixture j vith a fork, and stir into it the yolks 
 of four eggs and the white of one well whisked. 
 Butter a mould thickly, and flour it, ornament 
 the inside with dried fruit, pour in the mixture, 
 and tie it over with oiled paper. Put it on a 
 plate turned upside down in a saiicepan, and let 
 there be two or three inches of boiling water 
 round it ; the water must not come so high as 
 to flow into the pudding. When it is done 
 enough, turn it out, and send jam and a good 
 custard to table with it, or a sauce prepared as 
 follows. Pour a quarter of a pint of boiling milk 
 over a tea-spoonful of arrowroot which has been 
 mixed to a smooth paste with a little of the 
 same liquid. Sweeten it, and stir it over the 
 fire for two or three minutes. Pour it out, and 
 mix with it a quarter of a pound of any kind of 
 fruit jelly, either red-currant, raspberry, or 
 cherry. The jelly should have been previously 
 dissolved till it is in a liquid state. The sauce 
 may either be poured round the pudding or 
 served in a tureen. Time to steam the pudding, 
 about three-quarters of an hour. Probable 
 cost. Is. 2d., if made with milk, and exclusive 
 of the sauce. Sufiicient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 PRINCE CONSORT'S PUDDING (another way). 
 
 Crumble six ounces of stale spongecake. 
 Pour over them milk flavoured with almonds 
 prepared as follows. Blanch two ounces of 
 sweet almonds and four bitter ones. Simmer 
 them softly for half an hour in a quarter of a 
 pint of milk, then pound them to a paste, and 
 mix them again with the milk. Add to the 
 mixture a pinch of salt, two ounces of powdered 
 sugar, the yolks of four eggs and the white 
 of one, three table-spoonfuls of thick cream, 
 and two of brandy. Mix these ingredients 
 thoroughly, then pour the pudding into a 
 buttered mould, steam, and serve according to 
 the directions given in the previous recipe. 
 Time to steam, about three-quarters of an hour. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for three or 
 four persons. 
 2o 
 
 PRINCE FREDERICK'S PUDDING. 
 
 Rub two or three lumps of sugar upon the rind 
 of a fresh lemon until all the yellow part is 
 taken off. Crush them to powder with additional 
 sugar to make up the weight to four ounces. 
 Beat separately the yolks and whites of six eggs, 
 and, when they are thoroughly whisked, put 
 them together, and add the flavoured sugar and 
 the strained juice of the lemon. Butter a tin 
 mould, and half fill it with the mixture. Bake 
 in a quick oven. Serve immediately before the 
 pudding has time to fall. A sauce prepared as 
 follows may be sent to table with it. Whisk 
 two eggs thoroughly, and mix with them 
 gradually a glassful of sherry or Madeira. 
 Add a little sugar which has been rubbed upon 
 lemon-rind and powdered. Pour the mixture 
 into a saucepan, and stir it briskly over the fire 
 until it is well frothed and very hot; it must 
 not boil. Pour it round the pudding, and 
 serve. Time to bake the pudding, ten to 
 fifteen minutes. Probable cost, lOd., exclu- 
 sive of the sauce. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 PRINCE OF WALES'S KETCHUP. 
 
 Take some ripe elderberries, and strip off the 
 stalks. Fill a jar with the fruit, pour over it as 
 much boiling vinegar as the vessel will hold; 
 put it in a cool oven, and let it remain there all 
 night. Strain the liquid, and put with every 
 pint half a tea-spoonful of salt, a blade of mace, 
 four shallots, a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, a 
 dozen cloves, and two ounces of boned anchovies. 
 Boil the liquid until the anchovies are dis- 
 solved, and when it is quite cold strain it, 
 and bottle for use. This ketchup is chiefiy 
 used for fish. 
 
 PRINCES' PUDDING. 
 
 Beat two ounces of fresh butter to a cream. 
 Add a table-spoonful of sifted sugar, and the 
 well-whisked yolks of three eggs 'and the white 
 of one. Crush an ounce and a half of 
 macaroons to powder. Stir this into the pud- 
 ding, and pour in two table-spoonfuls of brandy. 
 Beat the pudding for some minutes, pour it into 
 a well-buttered tin, and bake in a well-heated 
 oven. Turn it out before serving, and garnish 
 with apricot or strawberry jam. This pudding 
 may be served either hot or cold. Time to bake, 
 ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, lOd. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 PRINCES' SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH AND 
 SALADS. 
 
 Take a small handful of tarragon-leaves, bur- 
 net, chervil, and chives. Rinse them, throw 
 them into boiling water, and let them boil 
 gently for a few minutes; pour off the water, 
 and squeeze them in a cloth. Put them in a 
 mortar with three anchovies which have been 
 washed, dried, and freed from bone and skin, 
 the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, a dessert- 
 spoonful of dry mustard, and a dessert-spoonful 
 of capers. Pound all these ingredients thor- 
 oughly in a mortar, add very gradually two 
 raw yolks of eggs, a quarter of a pint of salad- 
 oil, and a quarter of a pint of tarragon vinegar. 
 Rub the sauce through a fine hair sieve, and it 
 is ready for use. Efficient for a little more 
 than half a pint. 
 
PRI 
 
 626 
 
 PRU 
 
 PRINCES' SOUP. 
 
 Take half a dozen turnipe, and with a ve^e- 
 table cutter cut them into small balls the size 
 of a marble. Put them into a stewpan with as 
 much clear veal stock as will cover them, and 
 let them simmer till tender ; then pour over 
 them a pint and a half of additional stock, clear 
 and bright, let it boil, and pour it into the 
 tureen. Cut from a stale loaf a slice or two less 
 than a quarter of an inch thick. Have these cut 
 in rounds about three-quarters of an inch in 
 diameter. Throw them into a saute-pan with 
 about an ounce of butter, and shake them over 
 the fire till they are brightly browned. Drain 
 from the fat, and place them on blotting-paper 
 to absorb the grease. Send the crusts to table 
 with the soup, and serve them either on a 
 separate dish or in the tureen. Time, an hour 
 and a half. Probable cost of turnips, 4d. to 6d. 
 a bunch. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 PROVEN9ALE SAUCE. 
 
 Put a spoonful of salad-oil into a stewpan 
 with a clove of garlic, a table-spoonful of chop- 
 ped shallots, and three table-spoonfuls of chop- 
 ped raw mushrooms. Stir these ingredients over 
 the fire for five minutes, then add a bay-leaf, a 
 sprig of thyme, a glassful of sherry, half a tea- 
 spoonful of peppercorns, and half a blade of 
 mace. Simmer gently for a quarter of an hour. 
 Take out the herbs and garlic, and Eiud two 
 table-spoonfuls more stock, and a little salt if 
 required. Simmer five minutes, carefully skim 
 the sauce, rub it through a fine hair sieve, heat 
 it again, and serve very hot. A table-spoonful 
 of lemon-juice should be added at the last 
 moment, or, if preferred, three or four ripe 
 tomatoes may be boiled in the sauce until they 
 are soft enough to pass through the sieve. 
 Time, half an hour. Probable cost, uncertain. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 PRUNE PUDDING. 
 
 Wa«h and stone a pound of prunes. Blanch 
 the kernels, and , simmer them with three- 
 quarters of a pint of water, a glassful of port, 
 and a table-spoonful of sugar, till they are quite 
 soft. Line a mould with pieces of the crumb of 
 ■bread which have been soaked in clarified butter. 
 Pour in the stewed prunes gently, so as not to 
 displace the bread, and add a table-spoonful of 
 marmalade. Cover the fruit with a layer of 
 bread, tie a piece of buttered paper over the 
 top, and bake in a moderate oven. Or, stew the 
 fruit as above, mix- with it half an ounce of 
 dissolved isinglass, pour it into a mould, and 
 when it is set, turn out, and serve. Time to 
 bake, one hour. Probable cost of prunes, 4d. to 
 Is. per pound. Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 PRUNE PUDDING (another way). 
 
 Beat a tea-cupful of flour to a smooth paste 
 with a little cold milk. Add two well-beaten 
 eggs, a pinch of salt, and as much milk as will 
 make a rather thick batter. Wash half a pound 
 of prunes, and simmer them in a little wafer till 
 they are quite soft. Drain off the liquid, take 
 out the stones, sprinkle a little flour over the 
 prunes, and then stir them into the batter. 
 Dip a cloth into boiling water, wring it well, 
 and dredge a little flour over it. Pour the mix- 
 ture into it, and tie it securely, but leave a little 
 room for the pudding to swell. Plunge it into 
 
 boiling water, and keep the pudding boiling 
 until it is done enough. Serve with sweet 
 sauce. Time to boil, two hours. Probable cost, 
 7d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 PRUNE ROLY-POLY PUDDING. 
 
 Wash and stone a pound of prunes. Blanch 
 the kernels, and put them into a stewpan with 
 the fruit, a table-spoonful of moist sugar, half a 
 pint of water, and a glassful of port. Boil the 
 prunes to a thick paste. Roll out a piece of 
 pastry, such as is used for boiled pudding, a, 
 third of an inch thick. Spread the fruit upon 
 it, moisten the edges, and make it into a roll. 
 Fasten the ends securely. Tie the pudding in 
 a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and 
 boil it quickly till done enough. Send wine 
 sauce to table with it. Time to boil, about 
 two hours and a half. Probable cost. Is. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 PRUNES AND PRUNELLOES. 
 
 Prunes and prunelloes are a species of dried 
 plums, of which there are many varieties. The 
 finest prunes come to us from Prance, large 
 quantities being exported from Bordeaux. The 
 best prunes are jpacked in hampers or baskets 
 made of white osiers, weighing from six to ten 
 pounds each. Prunes, when stewed, form an 
 excellent article of diet for convalescents or 
 persons in delicate health, as they act as gentle 
 laxatives. 
 PRUNE SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS. 
 
 Wash a quarter of a pound of prunes, and 
 simmer them in as much water as will cover 
 them until they are quite soft. Drain and stone 
 them, and blanch the kernels. Put fruit and 
 kernels into a stewpan with the liquid in which 
 they were boiled, a glassful of wine, the strained 
 juice of half a lemon, a small strip of thin 
 lemon-rind, a tea-spoonful of moist sugar, and 
 a pinch of powdered cinnamon. Simmer gently 
 for ten minutes, then rub the sauce with the 
 back of a wooden spoon through a coarse sieve. 
 If the pulp is too thick, dilute it with a little 
 water. Time, one hour. Probable cost of 
 prunes, 4d. to Is. per pound. Sufficient for half 
 a dozen persons. 
 PRUNES, STEWED, FOR DESSERT, 
 
 Wash the prunes, and let them soak all' night 
 in as much water as will cover them. Lift them 
 out, and let the liquid stand a little while, then 
 drain it from the sediment, and put it into a 
 stewpan with a small quantity of sugar, if 
 desired, and a little lemon-rind and cinnamon 
 for flavouring. Stew gently for half an hour. 
 Add as much wine as may be wished — port is 
 the most suitable for the purpose — and stew 
 twenty minutes longer; serve cold, in a glass 
 dish. Probable cost of prunes, 4d. to Is. per 
 pound. 
 
 PRUNES, TISANE OF, FOR IRRITATION OF THE 
 THROAT. 
 This simple beverage, if sipped in small 
 quantities at intervals, will greatly relieve irri- 
 tation of the vocal organs. If it is too sweet 
 to be agreeable it may be diluted with water, or 
 even sharpened with strained lemon-juice. Boil 
 half a pound of prunes in a quart of water for 
 three-quarters of an hour, and keep up tlje quan- 
 tity of the liquor by adding a little fresh water 
 
PRU 
 
 627 
 
 PTA 
 
 occasionally. Pour off the liquor, and when cold 
 it is ready for use. Few children will refuse to 
 eat the prunes after they have been, boiled. 
 Probable cost of prunes, 4d. to Is. per pound. 
 Sufficient for a quart of liquor. 
 
 PRUSSIAN BALLS. 
 
 Knead half a pound of flour with half an 
 'ounce of fresh yeast and as much milk as will 
 make a stiff dough. Put it into a bowl, throw 
 a warm cloth over it, and set it by the side of 
 the fire to rise. When it is light, mix it up with 
 an ounce and a half of clarified butter, two 
 well-beaten eggs, and a table-spoonful of pow- 
 dered sugar flavoured with lemon-rind, and 
 knead it until it leaves the sides of the bowl in 
 a lump. Make it into little balls, insert inside 
 each one a tea-spoonful of good jam, and close 
 the aperture. Put the balls on a floured paper, 
 and lay this on a tin; put it in a warm place, 
 and let them rise once more. When light, throw 
 them into hot fat, and fry till they are lightly 
 and equally browned all over. Drain them well, 
 serve on a hot dish, and sift powdered sugar 
 thickly over them. Time, five minutes or more, 
 according to size. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient 
 for three or four persons. 
 
 PRUSSIAN CUTLETS. 
 
 Take a pound of lean meat— beef, mutton, or 
 veal — and two ounces of fat. Cut it into dice, 
 and put with them a little salt and pepper, and 
 four ounces of bread-crumbs, a dessert-spoonful 
 of finely-minced onion, and the eighth of a nut- 
 meg, grated. Mix the meat with the seasoning, 
 and bind it together with egg yolk. Divide it into 
 portions the size of an egg, press them well to- 
 gether, and make them up into the shape of cut- 
 lets. Stick a little piece of bone in at the narrow 
 end, and brush the cutlets over twice with beaten 
 egg.^ Sprinkle grated bread-crumbs thickly over 
 them, and fry in hot fat over a slow fire till 
 they are brightly browned, then brush them over 
 with glaze. Place them in a circle round a hot 
 dish, and put a mound of hot cooked vegetables 
 in the centre. Send to table good brown gravy, 
 tomato, Robert, or onion sauce in a tureen. 
 Time to fry the cutlets, ten minutes. Probable 
 cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient, one or two for 
 each person. 
 
 PRUSSIAN DUMPLINGS. 
 
 Mix one pound of fine flour with a pinch of 
 salt, half an ounce of sugar, the same of yeast, 
 one ounce of butter, a beaten egg, and a gill 
 and a half of tepid milk and water in equal 
 proportions. Set the dough aside to rise. When 
 well risen take up pieces the size of a walnut, 
 open them up and insert a little stiff jam of any 
 sort, and close up neatly. Then fry to a, good 
 brown in hot fat. Dust with sugar, and serve on 
 a very hot dish. If liked a few currants may be 
 added to the dough. Probable cost. Id. each. 
 
 PRUSSIAN SOUP. 
 
 Cut two heads of celery into small pieces, and 
 put them into a, stewpan with three ounces of 
 dripping, two carrots, two turnips, two onions, 
 two leeks, and a pound of potatoes; the vege- 
 tables must all be cut up small. Fry until they 
 are soft, which will be in about twenty minutes. 
 Put with them half a pound of lean beef or 
 mutton cut into slices, cover the saucepan 
 
 closely, let the ingredients steam gently for an 
 hour, and be very careful that they do not burn. 
 Pour over them two quarts of water, and add a 
 pint of split peas which have been soaked for 
 twelve hours or more. Bring the liquor to the 
 point of boiling, and skim carefully. Draw it 
 back, and let it simmer for three hours. Press 
 the vegetables through a colander, season the 
 soup with salt and pepper, and, if liked, a little 
 dried. mint; boil it up again, and serve very hot. 
 The peas may, if liked, be omitted, and a 
 little brown thickening boiled with the soup. 
 This economical dish is very popular in Prussia, 
 hence its name. Time, five hours or more, ac- 
 cording to the quality of the peas. Probable cost, ' 
 4d. a pint. Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 PRUSSIENNE CHARLOTTE. 
 
 (See Chaelottb, Pbussibnnb.) 
 
 PTARMIGAN. 
 
 The ptarmigan, or white grouse, is found on 
 the summit of mountains, in cold bleak situa- 
 tions, and is keenly sought after by many sports- 
 men. Its flesh has a peculiar and bitter taste, 
 much relished by epicures. It should be hung 
 as long as possible before being cooked. It is 
 about the same size as the red grouse. 
 
 PTARMIGAN, ROASTED. 
 
 Hang the birds as long as possible. Pluck 
 and draw them carefully, and truss like grouse. 
 Baste liberally, and just before they are done 
 enough flour and froth them nicely. Serve very 
 hot, either on fried bread-crumbs or on but- 
 tered toast, and send brown gravy and bread 
 sauce to table with them. Time to roast, half 
 an hour. Probable cost. Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. each. 
 Sufficient, two for a dish. 
 
 PTARMIGAN SALAD. 
 
 Take the remains of cold roast ptarmigan, or, 
 if liked, roast a^bird specially for the parpose, 
 and in this case let it be slightly underdone. 
 Cut it into neat joints, and lay these aside until 
 wanted. Wash in salted water any fresh salad 
 that may be in season, and dry it carefully by 
 putting it after it has been washed, a small 
 quantity at a time, into a dry napkin, and then 
 taking this up by the corners and shaking the 
 moisture from the leaves. Put a layer of the 
 salad at the bottom of a dish, lay the inferior 
 . joints of the bird upon it, and cover each piece 
 with sauce. Cover these with the remainder of the 
 salad, and lay the rest of the bird upon it ; pour 
 sauce over the whole, and serve. The sauce may 
 be made as follows. Beat the yolk of an egg for 
 a minute. Mix with it a large pinch of salt, half 
 a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar; a tea-spoonful 
 of finely-minced shallot, and the same of chop- 
 ped parsley, tarragon, or chervil. Stir in, first 
 in drops and afterwards in tea-spoonfuls, four 
 table-spoonfuls of best salad-oil, and beat the 
 sauce briskly between each addition. Add 
 gradually two table-spoonfuls of chilli vinegar, 
 and set the sauce in a cool place till it is 
 wanted. Before using, mix with it a quarter of 
 a pint of thick cream. The salad should not 
 be arranged upon the dish until just before it 
 is wanted. It may be garnished in any way 
 that fancy dictates. It looks very pretty as 
 follows. Place a thin flat rim of butter round 
 the dish on which the salad is to be served.' 
 
PUC 
 
 628 
 
 PUD 
 
 Cut four hard-boiled eggs into eighths length- 
 wise, and stick the pieces upon the butter, 
 placing the yolk and the white alternately to 
 the outside. Arrange round the salad, and rest- 
 ing upon the top of the eggs, a sort of trellis- 
 work of beetroot cut into thin slices. Pour the 
 white sauce over the salad, and sprinkle over it 
 half a dozen parsley-leaves broken into small 
 pieces. Serve as soon as possible after the sauce 
 is poured on. A salad garnished in this way 
 would have to be served on a flat dish, and not 
 in a salad-bowl. Time, half an hour to roast the 
 bird. Sufficient for five or six persons. Prob- 
 able cost of ptarmigan. Is. 6d. to 23. 6d. each. 
 
 PUCHERO, SPANISH. 
 
 This is a. Spanish soup. Like the "pot-au- 
 feu " in France, it appears daily at the tables of 
 families in Spain. Take two pounds of brisket 
 of beef, place it in an earthen stock-pot with a 
 pig's ear, the giblets of a chicken, half a pound 
 of blanched ham or salted pork, and three 
 handfuls of softened peas or beans. Moisten 
 the meats with five or six quarts of water, put 
 the stock-pot on the fire, skim, and when the 
 liquid begins to boil, set it on one side. After 
 two hours, add to the soup two leeks tied to- 
 gether, a bunch of chervil, a pinch of wild mint, 
 a slice of good pumpkin from which the peel and 
 seed have been removed, a large carrot, a head 
 of cabbage-lettuce, and half a blanched savoy 
 cabbage. After another hour add a few small 
 sausages, and continue to boil moderately. Be- 
 fore serving, remove the stock-pot from the fire, 
 pass the soup gently through a sieve into a 
 stewpan, and from that pour it into a tureen. 
 Add the leeks and lettuces cut up, and some 
 slices of fried toast. Place the beef on a dish, 
 surround it with the sausages, the vegetables, 
 and the ham. The meats appear at table with 
 the soup. To be thoroughly appreciated, 
 puchero must be eaten in Spam. 
 
 PUDDING-MOULDS. 
 
 (/See Illustration accompanying the article on 
 Aunt Susie's Pudding.) 
 
 PUDDING-PIES. 
 
 Put a pint of milk into a saucepan with a 
 little thin lemon-rind, mix with it two ounces of 
 ground rice, and keep it stirred over the fire 
 until it is thick and free from lumps. Pour it 
 into a bowl, stir into it a piece of butter the 
 size of a walnut, and add a pinch of salt, two 
 table-spoonfuls of white sugar, a little grated 
 nutmeg, two eggs, and a heaped table-spoonful 
 of currants. Stir the rice occasionally until it 
 is cold. Line some large patty-pans with good 
 pastry rolled very thin, three-parts fill them with 
 the mixture, and bake in a gentle oven. These 
 puddings may be made larger by increasing the 
 quantities in the proper proportion, and richer 
 by putting in a little more butter and an 
 additional egg or two. If liked, the currants 
 can be strewed over the pudding-pies just before 
 they are put into the oven instead of being 
 stirred into the other ingredients. Time to 
 bake, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 9d. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 PUDDINGS. 
 
 Without pretending to make a skilful cook by 
 book, we believe that any intelligent beginner 
 
 may compound a good pudding by attending to 
 the following simple rules and plain directions. 
 Attention is all that is required, and a little 
 manual dexterity in turniiig the pudding out 
 of the mould or "oloth. Let all the several 
 ingredients be fresh and good, as one bad 
 article, particularly an e^%%, will taint the whole 
 composition. Have the moulds and pud- 
 ding-cloths carefully washed when used, the - 
 cloths with wood ashes, and dried in the open 
 air. Lay them aside sweet and thoroughly dry 
 Puddings ought to be put into plenty of boiling 
 water, which must be kept upon a quick boil; 
 or baked, in general in a sharp but not scorching 
 oven. A pudding in which there is much bread 
 must be tied loosely, to allow room for swelling. 
 A batter pudding ought to be tied up firmly. 
 Moulds should be quite full, well buttered, and 
 covered with a fold or two of paper floured and 
 buttered. When eggs are of small size a 
 greater number must be used. The yolks 
 and whites, if the pudding is wanted particu- 
 larly light and nice, should be strained after 
 being separately well beaten. A little salt is 
 necessary for all potato, bean, or peas puddings, 
 and all puddings in which there is suet or meat, 
 as it improves the flavour. The several ingre- 
 dients, after being well stirred together, should 
 in general have a little time to stand, that the 
 flavours may blend. A frequent fault of boiled 
 puddings, which are often solid bodies, is being 
 underdone. Baked puddings are as often 
 scorched. Puddings may be steamed with ad- 
 vantage, placing the mould or basin in the 
 steamer, or three-parts dipped in a pot of boiling 
 water, which must be kept boiling, and filled up 
 as the water wastes. When the pudding-cloths 
 are to be used, dip them in hot water,and dredge 
 them with flour; the moulds must be buttered. 
 Plain moulds or basins are easily managed. 
 When a pudding begins to set, stir it up in the 
 dish, if it is desired that the fruit, etc., should 
 not settle to the bottom ; and, if boiled, turn 
 over the cloth in the pot for the same reason, and 
 also to prevent it from sticking to the bottom, 
 on which a plate may be laid as a preventative. 
 The time of boiling must be according to size 
 and solidity. Large puddings are sometimes 
 tethered to the ring of a twelve- or fifteen- 
 pound weight, to keep them below water in the 
 pot. When the pudding is taken out, dip 
 it quickly into cold water. Set it in a basin of 
 its size. It will then more readily separate 
 from the cloth without breaking. Have the 
 oven ve,ry clean for all uses, cleaning it regu- 
 larly before lighting the fire. Take care that 
 the juice of pies does not boil over, or the 
 liquid contents of puddings ; and remember 
 that sugar, butter, and suet become liquids in 
 boiling. It is from their excess that puddings 
 often break. Be, therefore, rather sparing of 
 sugar; for if you have much syrup you must 
 have more eggs and flour, which mske puddings 
 heavy. It is often the quantity of sugar which 
 makes tapioca and arrowroot, boiled plain, 
 troublesome to keep in shape when moulded. 
 Eice or other grain puddings must not be 
 allowed to boil in the oven before setting, or 
 the ingredients will separate and never -set so 
 never put them into a very hot oven. As 
 a rule, we may assume that such flavouring 
 
PUD 
 
 629 
 
 PUF 
 
 ingredients as lemon-grate and juice, vanilla, 
 and cocoa-nut, are more admired in modern pud- 
 dings than cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg. 
 Care must be taken to mix batter puddings 
 smoothly. Let the dried flour be gradually 
 mixed with a little of the milk, as in making 
 mustard or starch, and afterwards, in nice 
 cookery, strain the batter through a coarse sieve. 
 Puddings are lighter boiled than baked. 
 Kaisins, prunes, and damsons for puddings 
 must be carefully stoned; or sultanas may be 
 used iu place of other raisins. Currants must 
 be picked and plunged in hot water, rubbed in 
 a floured cloth, and plumped and dried before 
 the fire ; almonds must be blanched and sliced ; 
 and in mixing grated bread, pounded biscuit, 
 etc., with milk, pour the milk on them hot, and 
 cover the vessel for an hour, which is both better 
 and easier than boiling. Suet must be quite 
 fresh and free of fibre. Mutton suet for pud- 
 dings is lighter than that of beef ; but marrow, 
 when it can be obtained, is richer than either. 
 A baked pudding for company has often a paste 
 border or a garnishing of blanched and sliced 
 almonds about it, but these borders are merely 
 matters of ornament; if moulded, puddings 
 may also be garnished in various ways, as with 
 bits of currant jelly. The best seasonings for 
 plain batter puddings are conserve of Seville 
 orange, lemon-rind, lemon brandy, or orange- 
 flower water. The sweetness and flavour of 
 puddings must, in most cases, be determined by 
 individual taste. Sugar can be added at table. 
 Very good puddings can be made without eggs ; 
 but these must have as little milk as will mix, 
 and must boil three or four hours. A few 
 spoonfuls of fresh small beer, or one of yeast, 
 will answer instead of eggs. There are also 
 various egg powders and custard powders widely 
 advertised, which give fairly satisfactory results. 
 For a list of puddings see the Classified Index 
 at end of Dictionary. 
 
 PUDDING SAUCE, CAREME'S. 
 
 Beat the yolks of two eggs, to which add half 
 a pint of Madeira and four ounces of pounded 
 sugar. Set this combination upon embers or a 
 slow fire, and mill it with a chocolate mill. It 
 will thicken and become smooth, and is a 
 superior pudding sauce. Serve in a sauce- 
 tureen, and the moulded pudding without other 
 accompaniment. This sauce answers well for all 
 kinds of plum or other rich puddings. 
 
 PUDDING SAUCES, SWEET. 
 
 When any unusual sauce is appropriate to 
 a pudding, the recipe is either given in 
 this work under the same heading, or a 
 reference is made to it. The most usual 
 sauces for puddings are — sweet sauce, wine 
 sauce, arrowroot sauces, and fruit sauces. 
 They are made as follows. Svimt Sauce. — 
 Sweeten a little good melted butter, and flavour 
 it with grated lemon-rind, nutmeg, or powdered 
 cinnamon. Strew a little of the grated rind over 
 the top, and serve in a tureen. A little wine or 
 brandy may be added at pleasure. This sauce 
 is suitable for almost all ordinary boiled pud- 
 dings. Wine Sauce. — ^Boil the thin rind of half 
 a lemon or half an orange in a wine-glassful of 
 water till the flavour is extracted. Take out the 
 lind, and thicken the sauce by stirring into it a 
 
 salt-spoonful of flour which has been mixed 
 smoothly with a piece of butter the size of a, 
 walnut. B6il for a, minute, then add half a, 
 tumblerful of any good wine. Let the sauce 
 get quite hot without boiling, sweeten, and 
 serve. If port is used, the juice of the lemon 
 may be added. A Superior Wine Sauce. — Take 
 half a tumblerful of light wine (Madeira or 
 sherry), and mix thoroughly with it the well- 
 beaten yolks of two eggs. Place the jar in boil- 
 ing water, add a little sugar, and whisk over 
 the fire till the sauce is nicely frothed. Serve at 
 once. Arrowroot Sauce. — ^Mix a table-spoonful 
 of arrowroot smoothly, with a little cold water. 
 Add the third of a pint of water, a glassful of 
 wine, the juice of a lemon, and sugar and 
 flavouring. Stir the sauce over the fire till it 
 boils. This sauce may be varied by omitting 
 the wine, and using milk or milk and water with, 
 the arrowroot. The juice of almost any fruit, 
 too, may be boiled with the arrowroot. Fruit 
 Sauces. — Boil fruit (almost any kind may be 
 used) until it is quite soft with a little water. 
 Eub it with the back of a wooden spoon through 
 a fine sieve. Sweeten to taste, make it hot, 
 and pour the sauce over the boiled or steamed 
 puddings. 
 
 PUDDINGS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 The simpler and lighter puddings for invalids 
 are the- more easily they will be digested. Wine 
 or brandy should only be put into them when 
 speeially ordered, and as to sugar, cream, and 
 flavouring, the taste of the patient should be 
 ascertained before these are added. Sick people 
 have generally a great objection to highly- 
 flavoured dishes. The following is a light little 
 pudding, and can be quickly prepared. Beat a 
 tea-spoonful of flour to a smooth paste, and pour 
 over it a tea-cupful of boiling milk, which has 
 been lightly flavoured with lemon or cinnamon. 
 Add a pinch of salt and a tea-spoonful of sugar, 
 and stir until the latter is dissolved. When the 
 milk is cold, strain it, and stir into it a well- 
 beaten egg. Pour the custard into a buttered 
 basin, and bake in a moderate oven. Turn it 
 out upon a hot plate, and, if approved, serve 
 with a glassful of sherry or a little jam. Time 
 to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 3d. 
 
 PUDDINGS IN HASTE. 
 
 Take a cupful each of finely-shredded suet, 
 finely-grated bread-crumbs, and picked and 
 washed currants. Mix these ingredients with 
 two table-spoonfuls of sugar, a little grated nut- 
 meg, a tea-spoonful of sliced peel, and a pinch 
 of salt. When the dry ingredients are well 
 mixed, make them up into a light paste with two 
 well-beaten eggs and half a cupful of milk. 
 Wring some small cloths out of boiling water, 
 flour them, and tie in each a small tea-cupful of 
 the mixture. Plunge them into boiling water, 
 and boil quickly. Turn them out on a hot dish, 
 sprinkle white sugar thickly over them, and 
 serve. Time to boil, twenty minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, 8d. 
 
 PUFFED EGGS. 
 
 Beat four eggs lightly, and mix with them 
 about a pint of cream or of milk. Season with 
 salt and pepper. Butter a mould, and pour in 
 the mixture; cover it, and set it on a plate 
 
PUF 
 
 630 
 
 PUF 
 
 turned upside down in a saucepan, with boiling 
 water two inthes deep. Let tne mixture steam 
 until it is set. Turn it upon a hot dish, and 
 pour round it a little good Drown gravy. Time 
 to steam, twenty minutes or more. Probable 
 cost, lOd., if made with milk. Sufficient for 
 two or three persons. 
 
 PUFFED EGG TOAST. 
 
 Blend an ounce of butter and three-quarters 
 of an ounce of fine flour in a small stewpan over 
 the fire; then add a tea-cupful of milk and 
 cream mixed, and stir and cook for a, minute. 
 Remove from the fire, and beat in the yolks of 
 three eggs, a tea-spoonful of parsley and a 
 pinch of thyme minced together, a salt-spoonful 
 of salt,' half as much pepper, a pinch of cay- 
 enne, and a dust of nutmeg. Then add care- 
 fully the whites of the eggs, beaten. Have 
 ready some buttered toast m squares without 
 crust, and pour the mixture over, smoothing the 
 surface. Brown delicately in a hot oven, and 
 serve at once. 
 
 PUFFETS, AMERICAN (for breakfast). 
 
 Cream eight ounces of butter; add eight 
 ounces of sugar and six eggs. Mix a pound 
 and iv half of flour with a pint and a half of 
 milk ; add the sugar, etc., a small cupful of 
 yeast, and half a pound more flour. Let the 
 mixture rise. Bake in patty-pans and serve hot. 
 PUFFIN. 
 
 The size of the common puffin is not much 
 greater than that of a pigeon. These birds may 
 be found congregating together in large numbers 
 — favourite breeding-places being covered with 
 puffins, old and young, in thousands. Their 
 haunts are chiefly unfrequented islands and 
 headlands where there is some depth of soil. 
 Tlie flesh of the young birds is used as food. 
 Puffins are easily captured; the approach of 
 man does not readily frighten them, and many 
 are captured by means of a noose at the end of a 
 rod. This bird was formerly permitted by the 
 Church to be used as food on Lenten days; but 
 its flesh, unless pickled and spiced, is disagree- 
 able, strong, and fishy. 
 PUFF-PASTE. 
 
 (See Paste, Puff, oe Fetiilletage.) 
 
 PUFF-PASTE, FRENCH. 
 
 Take the same quantity, of butter as of flour, 
 80 that if you use two pounds of the one you 
 must also use two pounds of the other; and so 
 on. Weigh two pounds of very dry flour, and 
 sift it; then lay it on the table, and make a 
 very large hole in the middle; throw in a little 
 pinch of salt, a few small pieces of butter, and 
 three yolks of eggs; use a little cold water to 
 melt the salt; take water enough to make the 
 paste of the same consistency as the butter. In 
 winter you must make the paste very firm, 
 because then the butter is so; in summer you 
 must make the paste very soft, on account of the 
 butter being the same. The reason you are 
 obliged to do so is, that if the paste were not 
 made of the same substance as the butter, the 
 latter, when you turn the paste, would break 
 through. When you have worked the flour 
 lightly, mould it into a large ball, which flatten 
 as quickly as possible; turn it in a spiral 
 direction, and flatten the middle. Lay butter 
 
 on the table, with a little water, handle it to 
 extract the white liquid, and squeeze it in a 
 clean towel, that no moisture may remain. Lay 
 the ball of butter over the paste, flatten the 
 butter with a cloth, then fold the paste over the 
 butter all round, but in a square form, so as to 
 wrap it well all over. Try whether the paste is 
 firm enough to prevent the butter from break- 
 ing through it. Now powder a little flour over 
 the table and the paste. Eoll the paste as 
 smooth as possible with the rolling-pin as long 
 as you can ; fold it in three, and roll it over once 
 again, taking care always to powder it over 
 with a very little flour, to prevent it sticking to 
 the table or to the rolling-pin. After having 
 spread it well, fold it again in three. Make two 
 marks on the top with the rolling-pin, to re- 
 member that it has been rolled twice. Then 
 put it into a plate trimmed with a little flour ; 
 place it on the ground to keep it cool, and leave 
 it there for a little while. Shortly after put the 
 paste on the table, and proceed twice more as 
 before; then let it rest again, and give it two 
 turnings more, which makes six in all. Now 
 give it a long shape, and fold it in two. You 
 may then use it to make a vol-au-vent : when, at 
 the latter end, fold the paste double only, and 
 that is what is called half a turning. Of course 
 you are aware that the paste must have had six 
 turnings and a half before you can make a vol- 
 au-vent, and that you must keep the paste 
 thicker than for other small articles of pastry. 
 Cut the vol-au-vent the size of the dish in which 
 it is to be sent up, and immediately after put it 
 into a plafond ; brush it over with yolks of egg, 
 open it all round with the point of the knife, 
 and put it in a very hot oven. Mind that pufE- 
 paste always requires the oven to be very hot. 
 If you are not careful to keep the oven shut the 
 vol-au-vent will not rise properly. When it is 
 well baked a fine colour, and you are certain 
 that it is done through, take it out of the oven, 
 remove the middle which served as a cover, 
 empty and throw away the paste of the middle 
 which is not baked, and lay the vol-au-vent 
 cleanly on some paper to extract the butter. 
 When you are ready to serve up, dish the vol- 
 au-vent, and fill it with whatever you think 
 proper. With regard to small articles of pastry, 
 spread more pufE-paste, and cut it with cutters 
 of different shapes; if intended for entrees, 
 brush the paste over with yolks of eggs, but do 
 not glaze it with sugar. By glazing is here meant 
 the sifting of finely-powdered sugar over the 
 pastry when baked and emptied, and using over 
 it a red-hot salamander, or else putting it into 
 a very hot oven for the sugar to melt and glaze. 
 
 PUFF-PASTE, HOUSEHOLD. 
 
 Beat out the water from ten ounces of butter. 
 Rub two ounces of this into a pound of flour 
 till it is quite fine, and add a pinch of salt. 
 Whisk the white of an egg, and mix with it the 
 juice of a lemon and a small quantity of water. 
 Stir this into the flour to make a paste. Roll it 
 out, and be careful to roll it one way and 
 straight from you. Roll out the remainder of 
 the butter, lay it on the paste, sift a little paste 
 over it and the rolling-pin, fold the paste 
 into three, and roll it out twice. Let it lie in a 
 - cool place for some time ; an hour will' do, but 
 
PUF 
 
 631 
 
 PUL 
 
 twelve hours will be better. Before using it roll 
 it out very thin; it can scarcely be too thin. 
 Bake in a quick oven. Be careful to handle the 
 paste as lightly as possible, and to make it in a 
 cool place with cool hands. 
 
 PUFF-PASTE PATTIES, OR SMALL VOL-AU- 
 VENTS. 
 
 Make some puff-paste, give it eight turns, 
 and put it in a cool place or on ice for a little 
 while, then roll it out to the thickness of a 
 quarter of an inch. Take two plain or fluted 
 pastry-cutters, one half the size of the other. 
 Dip the larger into hot water, and stamp out as 
 many rounds as are required. Place tliese on a 
 baking-aheet, and brush them over with egg, 
 then dip the smaller cutter into hot water, and 
 press it about half through the rounds in the 
 centre. Bake in a quick oven, and when they 
 are done enough take out the small rounds of 
 crust from the top with a sharp knife, and scoop 
 out the crumb and the soft part from the inside. 
 Before sending them to table fill the inside with 
 any one of the different kinds of patty meats. 
 These are composed of savoury minces, made of 
 poultry, game, or fish. Lay the little lid on the 
 top, and serve. Time to bake the patties, 
 eighteen to twenty minutes. 
 
 PUFF-PASTE RINGS OR PYRAMIDS (a pretty dish 
 ' for a Juvenile party). 
 
 Roll out some good puff-paste to the thickness 
 of a quarter of an inch. Stamp it out first in a 
 round the size of the inside of the dish upon 
 which the pastry is to be served, and afterwards 
 in rounds, gradually decreasing in size, until 
 one is cut to lay on the top of the pyramid. 
 Brush these rings over with egg, and bake them 
 separately on baking-sheets till they are done 
 enough. Lay them one on the top of the otjier 
 in gradation, spread bright-coloured jam of 
 different colours on the rims, and crown the 
 pyramid with a dried apricot, or any suitable 
 ornament. If liked, three or four small pyra- 
 mids may be made instead of one large one. 
 Tlie rounds may then be formed into rings by 
 stamping a small cutter through the centre, the 
 holes in the rings may be filled with bright- 
 coloured jam, and the pastry may be covered 
 with sifted sugar. Time to bake the rounds, 
 fifteen to twenty-five minutes, according to 
 size. 
 PUFF-PASTE TARTLETS. 
 
 Take half a pound of puff-paste and give it 
 eight turns; roll it out to the thickness of a 
 quarter of an inch. Dip a plain or fluted cutter, 
 an inch and three-quarters in diameter, into hot 
 water, and stamp out as many rounds as will be 
 required. Gather the trimmings of the paste 
 tpgether, and roll it to the thickness of the sixth 
 of an inch. Dip the cutter again in hot water, 
 stamp out again the same number of rounds, 
 and form them into rings, by pressing a smaller 
 cutter, an inch in diameter, quite through them. 
 Moisten the edges of the rounds, and lay the 
 rings upon them to form the rims of the tartlets. 
 Bake in a moderate oven, and whilst they are 
 warm fill them with good jam. Place upon this 
 a little ornament of pastry, made of the rem- 
 nants. If the tartlets are wanted hot, put them 
 into the oven for a minute before sending them 
 to table. They are, however, generally served 
 
 cold. Time to bake, ten to twelve minutes. 
 Sufficient, a dozen for a dish. 
 
 PUFF PUDDINGS. 
 
 Beat four ounces of butter to a cream, and 
 mix with it four table-spoonfuls of flour, the 
 yolks of four eggs, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, 
 a pint of cream or milk, and a little almond 
 flavouring. A minute or two before the pud- 
 dings are to be baked, add the whites xyi the 
 eggs, beaten to a firm froth. Butter some large 
 patty-pans, and three-parts fill them with the 
 mixture. If liked, a few currants may be sprin- 
 kled over the puddings. Bake in a well-heated 
 oven, and serve the puddings as soon as they 
 are done enough, with white sugar sifted over 
 them; send wine sauce to table with them. 
 Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, if 
 made with milk. Is. 2d. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. 
 
 PUFFS OF LARKS. 
 
 Make half a pound of puff-paste, according to 
 the recipe already given. Pluck and draw three 
 or four larks, and brown them equally all over 
 in a stewpan with a little butter. Take them 
 up, drain them, and put into the body of each 
 bird a small lump of fresh butter, one or two 
 bearded oysters, a little pepper and salt, and a 
 table-spoonful of thick cream. Truss each lark 
 firmly, and wrap it in slices of fat bacon. Cover 
 it with the puff-paste, rolled out to the thick- 
 ness of a quarter of an inch, and shape it as 
 neatly as possible. Put the puffs side by side on 
 a buttered tin, and bake in a brisk oven for 
 about ten minutes. Probable cost of larks. Is. 6d. 
 per dozen. Sufficient, four or five for a dish. 
 
 PUITS D'AMOUR. 
 
 Make a fine rich puff-paste, and roll it out 
 thin. With tin shapes, made on purpose, cut it 
 out, each size less than another. Lay the sizes 
 in a pyramidical form ; then bake in a moderate 
 oven, that the paste may be done sufficiently, 
 but very pale. Lay different-coloured sweet- 
 meats on the edges. 
 
 PULLED BREAD. 
 
 Take the crust off a newly-baked loaf while it 
 is still warm. Pull it into rough pieces lightly 
 find quickly with the fingers of both hands, and 
 bake the bread in a alow oven until lightly 
 browned and crisp. 
 PULLED TURKEY, FOWL, OR CHICKEN. 
 
 Skin a cold chicken, fowl, or turkey ; take off 
 the fillets from the breasts, and put them into a 
 stewpan with the rest of the white meat and 
 wings, side-bones, and merrythought, with j 
 pint of broth, a large blade of pounded mace, 
 a finely-minced shallot, the juice of half a lemon, 
 and a roll of the peel, some salt, and a few 
 grains of cayenne; thicken with flour and but- 
 ter, and let the stock simmer for a few minutes, 
 till the meat is warm. In the meantime score 
 the legs and rump, powder them with pepper 
 and salt, broil them nicely brown, and lay them 
 on or round the pulled chicken. Three table- 
 spoonfuls of good cream, or the yolks of as many 
 eggs, will be a great improvement to this dish. 
 
 PULSE. 
 
 Under this name are ranged the edible seeds 
 of leguminous plants. The most important of 
 
PUM 
 
 1)32 
 
 PUM 
 
 all kinds of pulse are peas and beans ; after these 
 may be ranked kidney-beans, lentils, chick-peas, 
 etc. The best kinds of pulse contain a great 
 deal of nutriment. They are not, however, ezisy 
 of digestion, and are apt to produce flatulence. 
 
 PUMPKIN. 
 
 The pumpkin sometimes grows to a gfreat size, 
 as large as two feet in diameter. It is never 
 eaten excepting when cooked. 
 
 PUMPKIN (,k la Parmesan). 
 
 Cut a large pumpkin into square pieces and 
 boil them for about fifteen minutes in salt and 
 water. Take them out, drain them, and put 
 them into a stewpan with a little butter, salt, 
 and grated nutmeg. Fry them, sprinkle them 
 with a little Parmesan cheese, and bake them in 
 the oven until the cheese begins to melt, then 
 serve. 
 
 PUMPKIN AND RICE SOUP. 
 
 Wash a quarter of a pound of rice, and boil 
 it gently until it is almost soft. Drain it, and 
 put it aside. Pare a small pumpkin, take out 
 the seeds, and slice the whole or half of it. Take 
 the slices, and put these in a saucepan, with 
 two large onions, two cloves, four or five sticks 
 of celery, a sprig of parsley, a tea-spoonful of 
 sugar, a little pepper and salt, and two quarts 
 of water. Simmer all gently together until the 
 vegetables are quite soft, then rub them throiigh 
 a colander, and keep back the fibrous portion. 
 Set the puree, with the liquor that has run 
 through the colander with it, again upon the 
 fire, add the rice, and boil gently until the latter 
 is tender. Serve very hot. The soup will be 
 much improved if nicely-flavoured stock, or the 
 liquor in which meat has been boiled, be used 
 instead of water. Time, two hours and a half. 
 Probable cost of pumpkins, uncertain. Suf- 
 ficient for seven or eight persons. 
 
 PUMPKIN CURRY. 
 
 Cut one pound of ripe pumpkin into neat slices 
 about four inches long and an inch and a half 
 wide; remove the rind and seeds. Put two 
 ounces of butter into a saucepan, place it on the 
 fire, and when it boils, add about one ounce of 
 sliced onions, and fry to a nice brown. Add a 
 table-spoonful of curry-powder, and fry for 
 three or four minutes, stirring well. Add about 
 a quarter of a pint of hot water or a little less, 
 and a tea-spoonful of salt. Let this boil, then 
 put in the sliced pumpkin and another ounce of 
 sliced onions. Cover the saucepan, and simmer 
 the curry gently for an hour, or until the pump- 
 kin is quite tender, being careful not to break 
 the pieces. 
 
 PUMPKIN PIE (a Cornish recipe). 
 
 Take a ripe pumpkin, and chip off the rind or 
 skin; halve it, and take out the seed and puffy 
 part in the centre, which throw away. Cut 
 the flesh into small thin slices; fill a pie-dish 
 therewith; add to it half a tea-spoonful of 
 pimento, and a table-spoonful of sugar, with a 
 small quantity of water. Cover with a nice 
 light paste, and bake in the ordinary way. 
 Pumpkin pie is greatly improved by being eaten 
 with clotted cream and sugar. An equal quan- 
 tity of apples with the pumpkin will make a 
 Btill more delicious pie. 
 
 PUMPKIN, PRESERVED. 
 
 Take a fresh pumpkin, pare it, halve it, and 
 pick out the seeds, then cut it into thin slices 
 about the size of the palm of one's hand. Weigh 
 these slices, and allow a pound of powdered 
 sugar, the juice of two large lemons, the peel 
 of one, and half a tea-spoonful of ground ginger, 
 to each pound of pumpkin. Lay the slices in 
 layers upon a large dish, sprinkle the sugar be- 
 tween the layers, strain the lemon- juice over the 
 whole, and leave it for two or three days. At 
 the end of that time, turn the whole into a pre- 
 serving-pan with the lemon-rind thinly sliced 
 over, and allow a breakfast-cupful of water for 
 every three pounds of sugar used. Boil the 
 mixture gently until the slices are tender, turn 
 them into a bow), and let them remain covered 
 for six or eight days. Throw away the bag con- 
 taining the ginger. Strain off the syrup, and 
 boil it again until it is thick; pour it at once 
 over the pumpkin. Put the slices of pumpkin 
 into jars, and cover these with paper dipped in 
 the white of an egg. Store in a cool dry place. 
 Time, twelve days. Probable cost, uncertain. 
 
 PUMPKIN PUDDING. 
 
 Take a large pumpkin, pare it, and remove 
 the seeds. Cut half of it into thin slices, and 
 boil these gently in water until they are quite 
 soft, then rub them through a fine sieve with the 
 back of a wooden spoon. Measure the pulp, and 
 with each pint put four ounces of butter, a large 
 tea-spoonful of pounded mace, and a small nut- 
 meg, grated. Stir the mixture briskly for a 
 minute or two, then add the third of a pint of 
 hot milk and four well-beaten eggs. A glass- 
 ful of wine may be added or not. Pour the 
 pudding into a buttered dish, and bake in a 
 moderate oven for about an hour. Probable 
 cost, uncertain. It will be sufficient for five or 
 six persons. 
 
 PUMPKIN PUDDING (another way). 
 
 Boil the pumpkin, and rub it through a sieve, 
 as in the last recipe. With a pint of the pulp 
 put three-quarters of a pint of warm milk, an 
 ounce of butter, a large nutmeg, grated, a pinch 
 of powdered mace, three table-spoonfuls of 
 moist sugar, two table-spoonfuls of picked and 
 dried currants, and three well-beaten eggs. 
 Beat the batter briskly for two or three min- 
 utes. Line a dish with pastry, pour in the mix- 
 ture, and bake in a moderate oven for about 
 three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, un- 
 certain. SuflScient for six persons. 
 
 PUMPKIN PUDDING (another way). 
 
 Cut a pumpkin into square pieces, and stir 
 these over the fire in a saucepan until they 
 become soft. If they are now found to be too 
 moist, squeeze them in a cloth to get rid of 
 some of the water. Then put the pulp in a 
 stewpan with some butter, and fry it. When 
 done, mix a spoonful of arrowroot in milk, 
 sweetened with sugar, and simmer the whole 
 until it becomes reduced to a proper consistency. 
 Then let it become cold, and thicken with three 
 eggs, beaten up with a small quantity of water. 
 Afterwards butter the inside of a stewpan, cover 
 it with bread-crumbs, and put the cooked pump- 
 kin into it. Place the pan over some hot 
 cinders, put the lid on, and throw some embers 
 
PUM 
 
 633 
 
 PUN 
 
 on top of it. "Wlien the pudding is browned 
 send it to table. 
 
 PUMPKIN SOUP. 
 
 Take half or a quarter of a moderate-sized 
 pumpkin, pare it, remove the seeds, and cut the 
 flesh into thin slices. Put these into a stew- 
 pan, with as much water or milk as will cover 
 them, and boil gently until they are reduced to 
 pulp. Rub this through a fine sieve, mix with 
 it a pinch of salt and a piece of butter the size 
 of an egg, and stir it over the fire until it boils. 
 Thin it with some boiling milk, which has been 
 sweetened and flavoured with lemoli-riud, cin- 
 namon, or orange-flower water. It should be of 
 the consistency of thick cream. Put toasted 
 bread, cut into dice, at the bottom of the soup 
 tureen. Moisten the bread-dice with a small 
 quantity of the liquor, let them soak a little 
 while, then pour the rest of the soup over them, 
 and serve very hot. Or, whisk two fresh eggs 
 thoroughly in the tureen, and pour the soup in 
 over them at the last moment. The liquor 
 ought to have ceased from boiling for a minute 
 or two before it is poured over the eggs. Time, 
 two hours. Probable cost, uncertain. 
 
 PUMPKIN SOUP (another way). 
 
 Slice a pumpkin, and stew it in butter until 
 tender, then reduce it to a puree. Add to this 
 as much hot milk, flavoured with cinnamon or 
 lemon, as may be required to thin it for a soup. 
 Throw in a little salt; and when properly 
 heated, have ready a couple of eggs whisked to 
 froth, put them into the tureen,, and pour the 
 soup over. Serve immediately. 
 
 PUNCH, TO MAKE. 
 
 The grand secret, or rather art, of making 
 genuine British punch consists in the prepara- 
 tion of a rich and delicate sherbet ; this being 
 accomplished, with the addition of the best 
 Jamaica rum or French brandy, and pure hot or 
 cold water, the mixture may be too strong or 
 too weak, but cannot possibly prove bad punch. 
 
 In preparing sherbet for punch, the acids of 
 cream of tartar, tamarinds, and various other 
 prepared veg'etable acids, as well as that known 
 as citric acid, are occasionally employed ; but 
 perhaps, after all, the juices of limes, lemons, 
 and Seville oranges, expressed from the fresh 
 fruits, when attainable, make the sort of sher- 
 bet which seems mpst congenial with the nature 
 of good British punch. 
 
 Procure a couple of ripe, sound, and fresh 
 lemons or limes, and a Seville orange; rub ofE 
 the yellow rind of one of the lemons with lumps 
 of fine loaf sugar, putting each lump into the 
 bowl as soon as it is saturated or clogged with 
 the essence or grated rind ; then thinly pare the 
 other lemon and Seville orange, and put these 
 rinds also into the bowl, to which add plenty of 
 sugar; pour in a very small quantity of boiling 
 water; and immediately squeeze in the juice of 
 the fruit, followed by a little more hot water. 
 Count Rumford recommended that a table- 
 spoonful of rice should be boiled in each quart 
 of water; it imparts a softness almost equal to 
 jelly. Incorporate the whole well together with 
 a punch ladle ; and, putting aside a little of the 
 sherbet' thus composed, try its richness and 
 flavour by the palate. 
 
 If the fruit be good, a practised punch-maker 
 will find little which requires to be regulated, 
 and that little can soon be adjusted by supply- 
 ing the aqueous, saccharine, or acid deficiencies, 
 so as to produce a luscious and rich-bodied sher- 
 bet, fit for the reception of the spirit which is 
 to give it animation. If straining should be 
 found necessary, this is the period, for using a 
 lawn sieve, through which a little more hot 
 water may afterwards be passed; and a few 
 parings of the orange or lemon-rind are gener- 
 ally considered as having an agreeable appear- 
 ance fioating on the bowl. 
 
 The sherbet being thus prepared, to make it 
 into genuine British punch, spirit should be 
 added, preferably the best Cognac brandy; the 
 entire strength or weakness may be suited to the 
 general inclination of the company for which it 
 is prepared. The above quantity of fruit, with 
 about three-quarters of a pound of sugar, will 
 make suflicient sherbet for three quarts of punch. 
 
 Pineapple rum and capillaire syrup, instead 
 of part of the sugar, may be used, if convenient, 
 with considerable advantage to the flavour; 
 though it will prove excellent punch without 
 either of these auxiliaries, or even Seville 
 orange. 
 
 The same sort of sherbet may, of course, be 
 used for brandy-punch or rum-punch singly; 
 but punch is seldom so made in Bngland : many 
 persons, indeed, mix equal parts of rum and 
 brandy. Arrack-punch, however, is made with 
 that spirit alone, and usually with a simple sher- 
 bet of lime or lemon-juice with sugar, as the 
 flavour of the Seville orange interferes too much 
 with the peculiar flavour of the arrack, which 
 proves so grateful to most tastes, though to 
 many very unpleasant. When with the richest 
 sherbet, sometimes rendered still richer by fruit- 
 jellies, and even nutmeg, wine, instead of water, 
 is mingled with the rum and brandy, the liquid 
 is called Punch Royal. 
 
 The mixture of a small quantity of ale or 
 porter, highly recommended by some in making 
 punch, seems only advisable when it is rum- 
 punch, made without any brandy, and must, 
 even then, be very sparingly introduced. This 
 article, whatever may appear its value, is fur- 
 nished, with regard to its principles, by one of 
 the first practical punch-makers in Europe, who 
 could easily, by dwelling on minute circum- 
 stances, have supplied matter for a small 
 volume : the essence of which is, however, he 
 freely confesses, here sufficiently concentrated 
 for every useful purpose. 
 
 With regard to the salubrity of punch, when 
 drunk in moderation, hot in winter, or cold, and 
 even iced, in summer, it affords a grateful bever- 
 age, admirably allaying thirst, promoting the 
 secretions, and conveying animation to the 
 spirits. If, however, amid the hilarity excited 
 by the tempting fragrance and luscious taste, 
 which the balmy bowl seldom fails to inspire, 
 it be too freely drunk, its powerful combination 
 of spirit and acid, instead of proving favourable 
 to the constitution, will tend to bring on the 
 , gout, even sooner than sweet wines, unless 
 happily prevented by taking considerable exer- 
 cise. Punch, like all the prime blessings 
 of life, is excellent and salutary when prudently 
 enjoyed at proper seasons. We must not 
 
PUN 
 
 634 
 
 PUN 
 
 charge on them our own want of discretion, by 
 which alone they are ever converted to evils. 
 
 The apparently whimsical name of punch, like 
 the liquid itself, is probably of Hindustani origin 
 — the word, in the aboriginal language, signify- 
 ing simply five, being the number of ingredients 
 there used : viz., 1. Acid, or lime, or lemon- 
 juice ; 2. Sweetness or sugar ; 3. Spirit or rum, 
 etc.; 4. Water; and 5. Spicy flavour, or nutmeg, 
 etc. It is singular, too, that punch, the word 
 for five, consists of just five letters. From the 
 opposite natures of the ingredients, punch has 
 also been called the liquor of contradictions. 
 
 PUNCH (a la Fran^ise). 
 
 The following is calculated more especially to 
 produce a ladies' punch. Take rather more 
 than two pounds of sugar, and melt it in a 
 large saucepan over the fire, a good half-tum- 
 blerful of water or tea being poured over to 
 moisten it, with the juice of two lemons and two 
 oranges. When the sugar is well melted, pour 
 into the saucepan a bottle of rum and a bottle 
 of brandy, and as much tea as is needed to 
 modify its strength. After adding the tea, take 
 care that the punch is sweet enough. Just warm 
 the punch ; do not let it boil. Immediately be- 
 fore serving squeeze the juice of half a dozen 
 oranges through a sieve into the mixture. 
 
 PUNCH (a la Regence). 
 
 Take the thin rind of two lemons and two 
 Seville oranges. Put them into a bowl, with a 
 siiiall piece of vanilla, four cloves, and an inch 
 of stick cinnamon. Pour over them a hot syrup, 
 made with a pound and a half of refined sugar 
 boiled in a pint of water. Let these ingredi- 
 ents infuse for several hours. Mix with them 
 the strained juice of twelve lemons, and rum 
 and brandy according to taste. Strain the 
 liquid through a fine napkin. Bottle imme- 
 diately, and put it in ice until it is wanted. 
 
 PUNCH (k la Reine). 
 
 Eub the rind of two large fresh lemons with 
 three or four large lumps of sugar till the zest is 
 taken off. Squeeze out and strain the juice of 
 six lemons and two oranges, and add three- 
 quarters of a pound of sugar, dissolved in as 
 much water as will moisten it, and half a pint 
 of water. Freeze the mixture. Stir into the 
 ice a glassful of rum and a glassful of brandy, 
 and freeze again. Whisk the whites of three 
 eggs to a solid froth, and beat up with them 
 four ounces of pounded sugar. Stir this into 
 the ice and serve. 
 
 PUNCH {k la Romaine, Iced). 
 
 Take the juice of two China oranges, and a 
 glassful each of rum and champagne, and mix 
 them with a pint and a half of lemon-water ice. 
 Freeze in the usual way. Beat up half a pound 
 of powdered sugar with the frothed whites of 
 two eggs, add this to the rest, with half a pint 
 of brandy, a bottle of champagne, and a cup of 
 green tea. Stir the mixture briskly into the ice 
 until it liquefies. If it is too thick to pour out, 
 add a little water, a little more champagne, or 
 a little syrup. For the punch to be perfect the 
 quantity of ice must be proportioned to the 
 liquid. It should be smooth and white, like 
 thick creain, and should be served in cham- 
 pagne glasses. 
 
 PUNCH {k la Victoria). 
 
 To a pint of clarified sugar, mix the juice of 
 half a dozen lemons and two China oranges, with 
 the rind of two lemons rubbed off on a lump or 
 two of sugar. Strain when the sugar has dis- 
 solved, and freeze. Take the mixture out of the 
 ice-pot, add equal quantities of brandy and rum, 
 and beat up the whites of three eggs with a quar- 
 ter of a pound of sugar to a stiff froth. Mix it 
 gently with the rest, and put again to freeze. 
 
 PUNCH, BURNT. 
 
 Stir over the fire a pint and a half of rum, a 
 pint and a half of claret, and three-quarters of a 
 pound of sugar. When the sugar is melted, and 
 the mixture boils, pour a pint and a half of boil- 
 ing water over it and the juice of three lemons. 
 This punch may be drunk either hot or cold : if 
 cold, it should be allowed to stand covered in 
 the saucepan till it is cold, and then be poured 
 into decanters. The zest of the lemons should 
 be rubbed off on the sugar before it is put in. 
 
 PUNCH, ENGLISH. 
 
 Eub the yellow rind of a lemon with lump 
 sugar. Put the sugar into the punch-bowl, 
 squeeze the lemon-juice to it, add the spirits — 
 rum and brandy — in such proportions as are pre- 
 ferred. Incorporate the spirits thoroughly with 
 the sugar and lemon before pouring in the boil- 
 ing water, and keep stirring the whole while 
 this is being added. Some add Madeira or sherry. 
 
 PUNCH, FOR HOT WEATHER. 
 
 Put a dozen small sprigs of early mint into a 
 large tumbler, and sprinkle over them a table- 
 spoonful of white powdered sugar. Fill up a 
 third of the glass with' peach brandy and French 
 brandy in equal proportions, and add as much 
 pounded ice as the tumbler will contain. Eub 
 the rim of the tumbler with a slice of fresh pine- 
 apple, and drink the contents as the ice melts. 
 If the brandy is not at hand, a glassful of sherry 
 and a glassful of gin may be substituted for it, 
 and an inch or two of orange-rind may be added 
 as flavouring. 
 
 PUNCH, HOT. 
 
 In order to make good punch, it is necessary 
 that the sherbet — or mixture of sugar, flavour- 
 ing, acid juice, and water — should be both rich 
 and delicate, and that the ingredients should be 
 thoroughly blended. When the latter point is 
 attained, the spirits and wine can be added, in 
 proportions to suit the taste. The following 
 recipe is a general favourite. Eub the rind of a 
 large fresh lemon with two or three lumps of 
 sugar till all the yellow part has been taken off ; 
 then add more sugar to make up the weight to 
 four ounces. Put this into the punch-bowl,' and 
 strain over it the juice of the lemon. Pour then 
 into the punch-bowl a pint of boiling water, and 
 stir the mixture well for five or six minutes. Add 
 a quarter of a pint of rum, the third of a pint of 
 brandy, and stir again. Half a nutmeg, grated, 
 may be added or not. Time to prepare, a few 
 minutes. Sufficient for a quart of punch. 
 
 PUNCH, HOT (another way). 
 
 Eub two or three lumps of sugar upon the rind 
 of three fresh lemons, or, if preferred, upon two 
 lemons and one Seville orange, until the yellow 
 part is taken oif ; then add more sugar to make 
 
PUN 
 
 635 
 
 PUN 
 
 up the weight to six ounces. Put this into the 
 punch-bowl, strain over it the juice of the fruit, 
 and add a pint and a half of boiling water. Stir 
 the mixture until the sugar is dissolved, then 
 add a pint of rum and a glassful of brandy. A 
 spoonful of noyeau will improve the flavour of 
 this yunch. Time, a few minutes to prepare. 
 Sufficient for three pints of punch. 
 
 PUNCH ICING. 
 
 Take some very white and finely-sifted sugar, 
 and mix it to a thick syrup with a little lemon- 
 juice and rum. Before using it, make it hot, 
 and pvit whatever is iced with it into a cool 
 oven to dry as soon as the icing is spread upon it. 
 
 PUNCHIM JELLY. 
 
 Put a quarter of an ounce of gelatine to soak 
 in half a pint of cold water, and at the end of 
 half an hour pour on half a pint of hot tea ; then 
 add two ounces of sugar, half a gill of Jamaica 
 rum, a table-spoonful of brandy, and five drops 
 of essence of almond. Strain through a. fine 
 napkin, and set it in a cool place to become firm. 
 
 PUNCH IN HASTE. 
 
 Eub the rind of a fresh lemon with a large 
 lump of sugar till the yellow part is taken off. 
 Crush it to powder, with a quarter of an ounce 
 of citric acid, and pour over it a pint of clarified 
 syrup. Put a table-spoonful of this flavoured 
 syrup into a pint of water, add a glassful of rum 
 or a glassful of brandy, or a mixture of both, 
 and serve. 
 
 PUNCH JELLY. 
 
 Rub off the yellow part of two large fresh 
 lemons with one or two lumps of sugar, then add 
 more sugar to make up the weight to ten ounces. 
 Put this into a bowl, pour over it the strained 
 juice of three lemons and a Seville orange, and 
 stand the bowl aside for a while. Put an ounce 
 and a half of best isinglass into a very clean 
 saucepan, with a pint of cold water. Stir over 
 the fire till the "mixture boils, then draw it to 
 the side, and let it simmer gently for half an 
 hour. At the end of twenty minutes, throw a 
 lump of sugar and a tea-spoonful of vinegar into 
 it, and add about a table-spoonful of cold water. 
 Stir lightly, carefully remove the scum, and 
 strain the liquor through a napkin. Put it into 
 a clean saucepan, and add to it the contents of 
 the bowl that was set aside, a quarter of a pint 
 of brandy, and a quarter of a pint of rum. Let 
 all simmer gently together for four minutes, 
 then strain the liquor through a jelly-bag into 
 the mould. If liked, calf's foot stock can be 
 used, and then half the quantity only of isin- 
 glass will be required. 
 
 PUNCH JELLY (a French recipe). 
 
 Throw the peel of two sound lemons and half 
 an ounce of tea into a syrup nearly boiling; 
 cover it, and whilst it is cooling, run the juice of 
 five lemons into it through a bag. Press the in- 
 fusion through a silk sieve, and mix with it half 
 a pint of good arrack or rum, and one ounce of 
 isinglass, clarified. Finish as usual. 
 
 PUNCH JELLY, MADE WITH GELATINE. 
 
 Rub two or three lumps of sugar upon the 
 rind of three lemons till the yellow part is taken 
 off, then add more sugar to make up the quan- 
 tity to ten ounces. Strain over this the juice 
 
 of six lemons, and put it into a scrupulously 
 clean saucepan, with a quarter of a pint of 
 Jamaica rum, a quarter of a pint of brandy, a 
 piece of cinnamon, three or four cloves, a little 
 grated nutmeg, and an ounce and a half of gela- 
 tine dissolved in a pint of water. When the mix- 
 ture is almost cold, whisk the whites of two eggs 
 and stir them with their crushed shells briskly 
 into the mixture. Set the pan on the fire and 
 boil it gently for ten minutes. Lift it from the 
 fire, put it down by the side, and let it stand 
 untouched for twenty minutes. Strain through 
 a jelly-bag until the jelly is clear and bright, 
 pour it into a mould, and let it stand in a cool 
 place till it is firm. Time, twelve hours to set. 
 Probable cost, exclusive of the spirit. Is. per 
 pint. Sufficient for three pints of jelly. 
 
 PUNCH, MILK. 
 
 Cut off the thin yellow part of four fresh 
 lemons and a, Seville orange, and be careful not 
 to take any of the white pith of the fruit, or it 
 will make the punch bitter. Pour over this rind 
 a pint of Jamaica rum, and let it stand, closely 
 covered, for twelve hours. Strain the liquor, 
 and mix with it a pint of lemon-juice and two 
 pints of cold water, in which a pound of refined 
 sugar has been dissolved, and add the whites of 
 two eggs, beaten to a froth, three pints more of 
 rum, a grated nutmeg, a pint of Madeira, a pint 
 of strong green tea, and a quarter of a pint of 
 maraschino. Mix thoroughly, and pour over all 
 a pint of milk, boiling hot. Let the punch 
 stand a little time, then strain it through a 
 flannel jelly-bag until it is quite bright, and 
 either use it at once, or bottle it to put away. 
 PUNCH, PONY. 
 
 Take a tea-cupful of very strong green tea. 
 Rub the rind of a fresh lemon upon two or three 
 lumps of sugar, and put them into it; add the 
 strained juice of three lemons, a tea-spoonful of 
 essence of cinnamon, a quarter of a grated nut- 
 meg, half a pound of sugar dissolved in a 
 quarter of a pint of water, a bottle of Chablis 
 made hot, a gill of brandy, a gill of rum, 
 and a wine-glassful of arrack. Mix the punch 
 thoroughly, strain, and serve hot. Time, half 
 an hour to prepare. Sufficient for a Uttle more 
 than a quart of punch. 
 
 PUNCH SAUCE, FOR SWEET PUDDINGS. 
 
 Rub a large fresh lemon with two or three 
 lumps of sugar till all the yellow part is taken 
 off, then add more sugar to make up the weight 
 to two ounces. Pour over this a glassful of- 
 sherry or Madeira, and a glassful of brandy. 
 Mix a table-spoonful of flour smoothly with two 
 ounces of fresh butter, and add, gradually, the 
 well-beaten yolks of four eggs, the flavoured 
 sugar, etc. Turn the whole into a saucepan, 
 and whisk briskly over a gentle fire until it 
 begins to thicken ; serve very hot. The sauce 
 must not reach the point of boiling. If liked, 
 the eggs can be omitted, and the wine, etc., can 
 be mixed with half a pint of melted butter. 
 Time, two or three minutes to boil the sauce. 
 Probable cost, exclusive of the wine and brandy, 
 lOd. Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 PUNCH SORBET. 
 
 Rub the rind of an orange and of half a lemon 
 with four ounces of lump sugar ; add a gill and 
 
PUN 
 
 636 
 
 QUA 
 
 a half of good green tea (strained), a gill of 
 brandy, the same of rum, half a ^11 of pine- 
 apple syrup, a glass of maraschino, a pint 
 bottle of champagne, and as much more sugar, 
 made into a plain syrup, as may be necessary to 
 sweeten it to taste. Then freeze, and serve 
 plain, or with a garnish of fruits. 
 
 PUNCH souffle'. 
 
 Beat three table-spoonfuls of flour to a smooth 
 paste with a little orange-flower water, and add 
 three ounces of pounded sugar, slightly 
 flavoured with lemon, and three ounces of rata- 
 fias, crushed to powder. When these ingredi- 
 ents are thoroughly mixed, stir in with them the 
 well-beaten yolks of ten eggs. Butter a souffie- 
 dish, fasten round it a high band of buttered 
 paper to keep the souffle from falling over the 
 top as it rises in the oven, and strew bread- 
 crumbs over the inside. Beat up with the mix- 
 ture the whites of eleven eggs, which have been 
 whisked to a firm froth, turn it into the dish, 
 and bake in a moderate oven. Be careful to 
 move the souffle round in the oven two or three 
 times, that it may be equally baked. Serve the 
 moment it is done enough, and send a rich 
 custard, flavoured with brandy, to table with it. 
 Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost. 
 Is. lOd., exclusive of the custard. Sufficient 
 for six or eight persons. 
 
 PUNCH, WHISKEY. 
 
 Make the sherbet according to either of the 
 recipes given for hot punch, and add whiskey 
 only, instead of the usual mixture of spirits. 
 
 PUPTON, APPLE. 
 
 (See AppiiE PupTON.) 
 PURiE. 
 
 The puree of any vegetable or meat is pre- 
 pared by simmering till the substance is suf- 
 ficiently pulpy or soft to be passed through a 
 horse-hair or tamis sieve. In the case of meat, 
 it is sometimes necessary to beat it in a 
 mortar, after simmering. The sieve is placed, 
 bottom upwards, over a dish or tin, and with a 
 wooden spoon or puree presser the substance is 
 worked through, and what passes through is 
 called a puree. It is sometimes necessary to 
 moisten with a little liquor, which facilitates the 
 passing of the puree. The puree of any vege- 
 table stirred into a clear beef stock makes a 
 soup, and gives it its characteristic name. 
 
 PURITAN'S PUDDING. 
 
 Grate three ounces of stale crumb of bread, 
 put it into a bowl, with a pinch of salt, the 
 eighth part of a nutmeg, grated, an ounce of the 
 kernel of a fresh cocoa-nut, finely grated, two 
 table-spoonfuls of powdered and sifted sugar, 
 and an inch of thin lemon-rind. Mix these in- 
 gredients well together, then pour over them a 
 pint of milk, which has been beaten up with two 
 well-whisked eggs. Let the crumbs soak for two 
 hours or more. Beat the mixture well with a 
 fork, pour it into a dish, and bake in a moderate 
 oven. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable 
 cost, 8d. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 PURL. 
 
 Take ten pounds of wormwood, six pounds of 
 gentian, two pounds of dried rind of orange, half 
 a pound of bruised ginger, two ounces of cloves. 
 
 and eight ounces of cardamoms. Pufr these 
 ingredients in six gallons of water, boil the 
 mixture, then digest for fourteen or fifteen days, 
 and decant into wine-bottles. Add this to warm 
 beer, according to taste. 
 
 PURL (another way). 
 
 Take half a pint of ale, and warm it gently; 
 then add to it one wine-glassful of bitters, or a 
 little spirit. Purl is a favourite early morning 
 beverage with hard drinkers. 
 
 PURL (another way). 
 
 Warm a pint of ale with a quarter of a pint of 
 milk, and add some sugur and a wine-glassful of 
 gin, brandy, or rum. This beverage is now little 
 used, except amongst the lower classes in and 
 about the metropolis. 
 
 PYRAMID, ITALIAN. 
 
 This is made like Puff -paste Bings or 
 Pyramids. 
 
 PYRAMIDS, PUFF-PASTE. 
 
 This is made like Purr -paste Rings oe 
 Pyramids. 
 
 pyroligneous acid. 
 
 Pyroligneous acid has the remarkable property 
 of preventing the putrefaction of animal sub- 
 stances. It IS well known that meat that has 
 been smoked keeps better than that which has 
 been dried without smoke ; and it is now ascer- 
 tained that this effect depends on the pyrolig- 
 neous acid that rises with the smoke of the wood 
 or turf which is employed in the process. When 
 carefully purified and properly diluted with 
 water, pyroligneous acid is used extensively as a 
 substitute for common vinegar in pickling, and 
 even in general use. 
 
 QUAIL, THE. 
 
 The quail will keep for several days before it 
 is dressed. It may either be drawn before being 
 roasted or, like the woodcock, be roasted with- 
 
 ROAST aUAILS ON TOAST. 
 
 out being drawn. As it is rather deficient in 
 flavour, a slice of fat bacon and a vine-leaf are 
 generally tied over it before putting it to the 
 fire. 
 Quails, Dr. Doran tells us, are variously 
 
QUA 
 
 037 
 
 QUA 
 
 said either to have recalled Hercules to life or 
 to have cured hira of epilepsy. The Romans, 
 however, rather feared them, as tending to cause 
 epileptic fits. Galen thought so ; Aristotle took 
 d different view; the Greeks devoured them as 
 readily as though they had Aristotle's special 
 authorisation, but the Komans were only slowly 
 converted to the' same way of thinking. 
 
 QUAILS, BONED AND STUFFED. 
 
 Bone the birds without opening — ^that is, work 
 the knife from the neck, do not split them down 
 the back; fill them with liver forcemeat (see 
 FoBCBMEAT OF Ltveb) from a forcing-bag. Truss 
 them, wrap them in buttered paper, and bake 
 on a buttered tin in a brisk oven. Dish them 
 whole on a bed or border of rice. Mask them 
 with good brown sauce flavoured with sherry, 
 and strew some water-cress about the dish. They 
 may also be served cold, with an aspic border, 
 garnished with chopped gherkins, and slices of 
 hard-boiled eggs. 
 
 QUAILS, COMPOTE OF. 
 
 Take six or eight quails, according to the size 
 of the dish. Cut the claws off, and empty the 
 birds, without making too large an opening. 
 Truss them with the legs inward. Have a dozen 
 pieces of bacon cut in the shape of corks, blanch 
 them in order to draw the salt out, then let them 
 fry in butter till they are of a light brown ; next 
 take them out of the stewpan to make room for 
 the quails, which stew till they begin to be of a 
 light brown also, and then take them out. 
 Make a roux, which moisten with a ladleful of 
 gravy of veal ; add a bunch of parsley and green 
 onions, some small white onions (if approved 
 of), mushrooms, etc. As soon as the quails are 
 done, take them out of the stewpan, and let the 
 bacon stew tiU thoroughly done. Skim the 
 sauce well, and strain it through a tamis over 
 the birds ; then dish the bacon, mushrooms, and 
 small onions, and send up quite hot and well 
 seasoned. 
 
 QUAILS, GALANTINE OF. 
 
 Bone half a dozen quails. This is a delicate 
 and troublesome process, and if the cook can- 
 not manage it she had better let it be done by 
 the poulterer. Mince finely the livers of the 
 birds, and mix with them a minced sweetbread, 
 two or three ounces of grated ham, and a little 
 chopped parsley, minced shallot, and pepper and 
 salt. Bind the forcemeat together with the yolk 
 of an egg. Lay the birds open on the table, 
 skin downwards. Divide the forcemeat equally 
 amongst them, and spread half of it upon the 
 birds. Lay upon each a slice of cold tongue, a 
 spoonful of chopped truffle, if this can be had, 
 and afterwards the rest of the forcemeat. Boll 
 each bird to an oval shape, and tie it in a piece 
 of old napkin. Lay the birds side by side, and 
 put with them the bones and trimmings, a little 
 pepper and salt, an onion stuck with two or 
 three cloves, and either a knuckle of veal or a 
 calf's foot. Cover with nicely-flavoured stock, 
 and let the quails simmer gently for three- 
 quarters of an hour. Take the saucepan from 
 the fire, and let the birds remain in the liquor 
 until they are nearly cold. Drain them, take 
 them out of the napkins, and brush them over 
 with glaze. Boil the sauce quickly to a jelly. 
 
 and strain it. If it is not quite clear, clarify it 
 with white of egg. Boil a pound of rice in a. 
 quart of water slightly salted, until it is quite 
 tender, and the liquid is absorbed. Beat well 
 till it is smooth, then press it into a plain round 
 mould. When it is cold and stiff, turn it upon 
 the centre of a large dish. Brush it over with 
 clarified butter, and rest the quails in an up- 
 right position upon it. Garnish the dish with 
 the gravy jelly, cut into dice, and the galantine 
 will be ready for serving. Any small birds may 
 be served in the same way. Probable cost of 
 quails, when cheap. Is. each. Sufficient for a 
 Lioderate-sized supper dish. 
 QUAILS, IN ASPIC. 
 
 Bone the quails, halve them, and cover them 
 with brown chaudfroid sauce. Leave them to 
 set. Line thinly some dariole moulds with aspio 
 jelly, and ornament with cut truffles, white of 
 hard-boiled egg, ham, or tongue. Put half a 
 quail in each mould, and fill up with more chaud- 
 froid sauce. Leave till set. Turn out, and 
 serve on a border of aspic jelly. To make irown 
 chaudfroid sauce : — Take half a pint of aspic 
 jelly, two table-spoonfuls of brown sauce, half 
 an ounce of glaze, half a wine-glassful of sherry, 
 a pinch of sugar, and pepper and salt. Put into 
 a saucepan, and reduce to one-fourth by boil- 
 ing, keeping it well skimmed. Then pass 
 through a tamis. 
 QUAILS, ROAST. 
 
 Draw the birds or not, according to taste. 
 Truss them firmly, and tie over the breasts a 
 vine-leaf covered with a slice of fat bacon. 
 Roast before a clear fire, and baste well. When 
 done enough brush the bacon over with glaze, 
 and serve the birds on a hot dish ; garnish with 
 water-cress. Pour good brown gravy round but 
 not over the quails. If the birds are not drawn 
 before being roasted they should be served on a 
 slice of toast, which has been placed in the pan 
 under them to catch the trails. Time to roast 
 the quails, fifteen to twenty minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, when plentiful. Is. each. Sufflcient, 
 two for a dish. 
 QUAILS, SALMI OF. 
 
 Truss the quails as for roasting, and put a 
 small roll of bacon inside each. Put two ounces 
 of butter in a frying-pan, and when it melts put 
 the quails in and let them colour nicely. Next, 
 turn them into a stewpan, cover with a rich 
 gravy, and stew until tender; take them out, 
 thicken and colour the gravy; add half a wine- 
 glassful of Madeira, the pounded livers of the 
 birds, a table-spoonful of chutney, a dash of 
 tarragon vinegar, and a few finely-minced mush- 
 rooms. Heat the birds up in this sauce, and 
 serve with chicken salad. 
 QUAILS, TRUSSING OF. 
 
 Pluck, draw, and singe the quail. Cut off 
 the neck close to the back, and the wings at the 
 first pinion. Truss the legs close to the body, 
 and pass a skewer through the pinions and 
 thighs. 
 QUAKING PUDDING. 
 
 Scald a quart of cream ; when almost cold, put 
 to it four well-beaten eggs, a spoonful and a 
 half of fiour, some nutmeg, and sugar. Tie the 
 pudding in a buttered cloth, and boil for an 
 
QUA 
 
 fi38 
 
 QUE 
 
 hour. Turn it out carefully, lest it should 
 crack. Serve with melted butter, a little wine, 
 and sugar. 
 
 QUASS. 
 
 A sort of weak beer, a favourite beverage 
 among the people in Russia, goes under this 
 name. It is produced by fermenting rye-meal 
 in warm water, and is usually kept in stone 
 bottles. When it becomes too sour it does 
 service as vinegar. 
 
 QUEEN ADELAIDE'S PUDDING. 
 
 Beat eight ounces of fresh butter to a cream. 
 Mix with it eight ounces of finely-sifted sugar, 
 half a pound of dried flour, two ounces of thinly- 
 sliced candied peel, four ounces of picked and 
 dried currants, and a quarter of a tea-spoonful 
 of essence of almonds or essence of lemon. 
 Whisk the yolks and whites of six fresh eggs, 
 first separately, and afterwards together. Add 
 them to the other ingredients, and beat the 
 mixture for several minutes. Pour it into a 
 well-buttered mould, cover with buttered paper, 
 and afterwards tie in a cloth, and boil or steam 
 the pudding. Turn it out carefully on a hot 
 dish, and pour wine sauce round but not 
 over it. Time to boil, two hours and a half. 
 Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 QUEEN CAKES. 
 
 Beat half a pound of butter to a cream. 
 Add gradually half a pound of loaf sugar, one 
 pound of dried flour, half a pound of picked 
 currants, and a flavouring of either grated 
 lemon-rind, grated nutmeg, or almonds. Beat 
 the yolks and whites of three eggs, first separ- 
 ately, and afterwards together. Mix with them 
 a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda, which has 
 been dissolved in a table-spoonful of hot milk, 
 and a small tea-spoonful of thick cream. Stir 
 this mixture into the cake, and beat thoroughly 
 for several minutes. Butter some small queen- 
 cake tins or patty-^ans, half fill them virith the 
 batter, and bake in a brisk oven for about 
 twenty minutes. Queen-cake tins are generally 
 made heart-shaped. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. for 
 this quantity. 
 
 QUEEN CAKES (another way). 
 
 Put half a pound of fine flour into a bowl. 
 Mix with it a small pinch' of salt, half a pound 
 of loaf sugar, pounded and sifted, six ounces of 
 currants, picked and dried, and a flavour- 
 ing of either powdered cinnamon, grated nut- 
 meg, grated lemon-rind, or pounded almonds. 
 Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. Cut half 
 a pound of fresh butter into small pieces, beat 
 to a cream, and add gradually five well-beaten 
 eggs, two table-spoonfuls of rose-water or 
 brandy, and the strained juice of a lemon. Stir 
 the flour, spice, etc., gradually into this mix- 
 ture, and beat the batter for several minutes. 
 Butter some queen-cake tins, half fill them with 
 the batter, and bake in a brisk oven. When 
 done enough, turn them out, and place them up- 
 side down to cool. If liked, these cakes may be 
 coated with icing after they are baked. To do 
 this put the white of an egg into a bowl, and 
 mix gradually with it a quarter of a pound of 
 finely-sifted loaf sugar, and a dessert-spoonful 
 of lemon-juice, and work these together with a 
 
 spoon until the paste is white, shining, and 
 thick. Spread a little of this upon the cakes, 
 and put in a cool oven, or in a warm screen, to 
 dry. Time to bake the cakes, fifteen to twenty 
 minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 2d. 
 
 QUEEN CAKES (another way). 
 
 Wash a pound of fresh butter in rose-water. 
 Beat it to a cream,_ and mix with it first the 
 whites of eight eggs which have been whisked 
 to a solid troth, and afterwards the beaten 
 yolks of the eggs. Add gradually a pound of 
 dried flour, a pound of picked and dried cur- 
 rants, and a pound of powdered and sifted 
 sugar, and beat the mixture well between every 
 addition. Butter the queen-cake tins, or, fail- 
 ing these, some small tartlet-tins, half fill them 
 with the batter, and bake in a brisk oven. Just 
 before the cakes are put into the oven, sift a 
 little finely-powdered sugar over them. Time 
 to bake, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable 
 cost, 3s. 8d. 
 
 QUEEN CAKES (another way). 
 
 Take a pound of powdered sugar, a pound of 
 well-dried flour, a pound of butter, eight eggs, 
 and half a pound of currants, washed and 
 picked; grate a nutmeg, and an equal quantity 
 of mace and cinnamon; work the butter to a 
 cream, put in the sugar, beat the whites of the 
 eggs twenty minutes, and mix them with the 
 butter and sugar; then beat the yolks for half 
 an hour, and put them to the butter. Beat 
 the whole together, and when it is ready for 
 the oven put in the flour, spices, and currants. 
 Sift a little sugar over the cakes, and bake in 
 tins. 
 
 QUEEN MAB'S PUDDING. 
 
 Put a pint and a half of new milk or cream 
 into a saucepan with any flavouring that may 
 be preferred — either an inch of stick cinnamon, 
 the thin rind of a lemon, vanilla, or eight or 
 nine bitter almonds, blanched or sliced. Sim- 
 mer the liquor gently until it is pleasantly and 
 rather strongly flavoured, then put with it a 
 pinch of salt, four ounces of loaf sugar, and an 
 ounce of isinglass or gelatine, and stir until 
 the last is dissolved. Strain the mixture 
 through muslin, and mix with it the well-beaten 
 yolks of five eggs. Stir it again over the fire 
 until it begins to thicken, but on no account 
 allow it to boil, or it will curdle. Stir until it 
 is cool, then mix with it an ounce and a half of 
 candied peel and an ounce and a half of dried 
 cherries — or, if preferred, preserved ginger or 
 preserved pineapple may be used instead of the 
 cherries, and a little of the juice of the fruit 
 may be stirred in with the pudding. Pour the 
 pudding into an oiled mould, and let it stand in 
 a cool place, or upon ice, until set. Turn the 
 pudding out very carefully, and pour round it a 
 sauce made of clear syrup flavoured with lemon- 
 rind and coloured with cochineal, or, if pre- 
 ferred, mixed with a small portioii of straw- 
 berry or currant acid. Time, about an hour to 
 prepare the pudding. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. Probable cost, if made with milk and 
 gelatine. Is. lOd. 
 
 QUEEN MARY'S SAUCE, FOR ROAST MUTTON. 
 
 Put a well-hung joint of mutton down to a 
 clear fire and baste liberally with the contents 
 
QUE 
 
 639 
 
 QUE 
 
 of the dripping-tin. When it is three parts 
 roasted, drain off the fat, and put a pfood- 
 sized dish under the meat. Place in this an 
 anchovy, boned and pounded, a small onion, 
 finely chopped, and a little pepper; pour over 
 it a wine-glassful of port and a wine-glassful of 
 boiling water, and let the droppings of the 
 meat fall into the liquor. Baste the meat with 
 this sauce, and when it is done enough, serve 
 on a hot dish, aJid pour the gravy under it. 
 Sufficient for a joint weighing six or seven 
 pounds. 
 
 QUEEN'S BISCUITS. 
 
 Make a soft paste of the following materials. 
 A pound and a half of flour, the same weight 
 of powdered loaf sugar, the yolks of eighteen 
 eggs, the whites of twenty-four, and a sufficient 
 quantity of crushed coriander-seeds; a little 
 yeast may also be added, if desired. Make the 
 paste into biscuits, and bake them on paper, at 
 a moderate heat, till they begin to brown. 
 
 QUEEN'S CUSTARD. 
 
 Sweeten a pint of thick cream with two table- 
 spoonfuls of pounded sugar. Boil it, allow it to 
 cool slightly, then mix with it very gradually 
 the well-beaten yolks of eight eggs. Put the 
 custard into a heated jug, place this ija. a pan 
 with boiling water, and stir with a wooden spoon 
 till it begins to thicken. Pour it out, mix with 
 it a wine-glassful of maraschino or noyeau, and 
 continue stirring until it is cold. An ounce 
 of almonds, blanched and thinly sliced, may be 
 added or not. The custard is to be stirred over 
 the fire till it begins to thicken. Sufficient for 
 a pint and a half of custard. Probable cost, 3s. 
 
 QUEEN'S DROPS. 
 
 Beat half a pound of fresh butter to cream. 
 Add eight ounces of finely-powdered sugar, a 
 quarter of a nutmeg, grated, and, gradually, 
 four well-beaten eggs. Beat the mixture for 
 five or six minutes, then add lightly eight 
 ounces of dried flour and two ounces of picked 
 and dried currants. Drop the batter from 
 the end of a spoon in small balls the size of a 
 pigeon's egg, upon a baking-sheet spread with 
 butter, and bake in a hot oven. When nearly 
 cold,, take the drops off the paper. Time to bake, 
 ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost. Is. 8d. 
 
 QUEEN'S PUDDING. 
 
 Butter a plain mould or basin rather thickly 
 vfith butter, flour it well, and stick raisins, 
 slices of candied peel, or dried fruit over the 
 inside in rows. Fill the basin with layers of 
 bread and butter, and put between each layer 
 sugar flavoured with lemon-rind, blanched and 
 sliced almonds, and candied peel. Pour over 
 the whole a pint of milk which has been mixed 
 with four well-beaten eggs. Cover the basin 
 closely, and boil or steam the pudding. Time 
 to boil the pudding, half an hour. Probable 
 cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient, if made in a quart 
 mould, for five or six persons. 
 
 QUEEN'S SAUCE, FOR BOILED PLUM PUD- 
 DINGi. 
 
 Take half a pint of good melted butter, 
 sweeten it, and flavour with powdered cinnamon 
 or grated lemon-rind. Stir into it a glassful of 
 sherry, or Madeira, and a glassful of rum shrub. 
 
 Put the sauce into a tureen, grate a little nut- 
 meg over the top, and it is ready for serving. 
 Time, a few minutes to prepare. Sufficient for 
 six or eight persons. 
 
 QUEEN'S SOUP, OR POTAGE A LA REINE. 
 
 Skin and clean two fine fowls or three young 
 chickens, carefully removing the dark spongy 
 substance which is inside. Put them into a 
 saucepan, with a bunch of parsley, and pour 
 over them as much good white stock, niCely 
 flavoured, as will cover them. Let them sim- 
 mer gently for an hour. Take them up, and 
 pick off all the white flesh from the birds. 
 Blanch and pound a dozen sweet almonds and 
 two bitter ones. Beat them to a paste in a 
 mortar, with a little water to keep them from 
 oiling. Soak the crumb of a penny roll in the 
 broth, and when it is quite moist, wring it in a 
 cloth, to squeeze the moisture from it. Chop 
 the .flesh of the chickens, and pound it to a 
 paste, with the soaked roll, the hard-boiled yolks 
 of two eggs, and the pounded almonds; Stir 
 this mixture into the soup, and press the whole 
 through a sieve. Heat it in a clean saucepan, 
 and mix with it a pint and a half of thick cream 
 which has been boiled separately. Stir it over 
 the fire till it boils, and if not sufficiently thick, 
 add a little arrowroot. Many cooks omit the 
 yolks of eggs altogether, and use arrowroot in- 
 stead. If no white stock is at hand, it may be 
 made by putting into a saucepan three or four 
 pounds of the knuckle of veal which has been 
 soaked and broken up, with four ounces of un- 
 cooked lean ham, three onions, a carrot, a tur- 
 nip, four or five outer sticks of celery, two 
 sprigs of lemon thyme, a bunch of parsley, a 
 large blade of mace, half a tea-spoonful of pep- 
 percorns, and three quarts of cold water. Bring 
 the liquor to the boil, skim carefully till no 
 more scum rises, then draw the saucepan to the 
 side, and let it simmer gently and without ceas- 
 ing until it is reduced to rather less than two 
 quarts. Pour it out, and when it is stiff, clear 
 the fat from the top, lift it out free from sedi- 
 ment, and it is ready for use. Time to boil the 
 chickens, one hour. Probable cost, varying with 
 the price of the chickens. 
 
 QUEEN'S TEA CAKES. 
 
 Take the weight of two eggs in fresh butter 
 and beat it to a cream. Mix with it half a 
 pound of powdered and sifted sugar, which, be- 
 fore being crushed, has been rubbed upon the 
 rind of a large lemon until the yellow part has 
 been taken off, half a pound of dried flour, and a 
 pinch of salt. Mix the dry ingredients thor- 
 oughly, and make them into a paste by mixing 
 with them the two eggs well beaten, and a little 
 rose-water, or, failing this, cold water. Roll 
 the paste out to the thickness of half an inch. 
 Cut it out in rounds the size of a saucer, and 
 bake in a moderate oven for from a quarter to 
 half an hour. Probable cost. Is. 3d. for this 
 quantity. 
 
 QUENELLES. 
 
 Quenelles are small balls made of delicate 
 French forcemeat, composed of panada, calf's 
 udder, and the flesh of veal, poultry, or fish, 
 thoroughly pounded, then seasoned, and moist- 
 ened with egg. Great patience and care are 
 
QUE 
 
 G40 
 
 QUE 
 
 required in making them, and these must be 
 directed principally to pounding the ingredients 
 thoroughly, first separately, and afterwards to- 
 gether. Quenelles are served either in soups, or, 
 with rich sauce, as a ragout, or they may be 
 dipped in egg and bread-crumbs, fried in hot 
 fat, and served as croquettes. When the 
 forcemeat is made, it is always best to test 
 a little piece before poaching or frying the 
 whole of the preparation. To do this, a small 
 ball should be moulded, and thrown into fast- 
 boiling water. If, when it is taken out, the 
 quenelle is light, firm, and well seasoned, no 
 alteration will be necessary. If it is too firm, a 
 little water may be added, and if not firm 
 enough, the yolk of an egg will, in all prob- 
 ability, make it of the proper consistency. 
 
 QUENELLES AS A GARNISH FOR POULTRY. 
 
 The following is a pretty and appetising dish 
 for dinner or supper. Stuff a large fowl with 
 veal forcemeat, and roast it. Keep out a small 
 quantity of the forcenieat, and make it up into 
 quenelles, about the size of small walnuts. 
 Poach these in gravy, and warm with them as 
 many slices of tongue as there are quenelles. 
 Put a border of mashed potatoes round a large 
 dish, and place on this, alternately, the tongue 
 and the quenelles. Put the roast fowl in the 
 middle of the dish, and pour over it and the 
 quenelles a quart of good white stock. Serve 
 very hot. The appearance of the slices of 
 tongue will be further improved if they are 
 brushed over with a little glaze. 
 
 QUENELLES, FORCEMEAT FOR. 
 
 Quenelle forcemeat is made by mixing meat, 
 poultry, game, or fish with an equal quantity 
 in bulk of panada and calf's udder ; it should be 
 remembered that each ingredient must be 
 pounded and passed through a sieve by itself, 
 and afterwards all be pounded together, 
 and then passed through the sieve. The pre- 
 paration of the udder is a troublesome and 
 tedious process, besides which the udder can- 
 not always be procured. Therefore fresh butter 
 is frequently substituted for it; and when this 
 is the case the following proportions may be 
 followed : they will be found to make good force- 
 meat, whether meat, poultry, game, or fish is 
 used. Take half a pound of meat properly pre- 
 pared, a quarter of a pound of panada (see 
 Panada), and three ounces of fresh butter. 
 Pound these together, with a little salt, cayenne, 
 and mace, if the panada is not already seasoned. 
 A little anchovy may be added for fish quen- 
 elles. Mix in gradually a table-spoonful of good 
 white sauce, the yolks of two eggs and the 
 white of one. Test the forcemeat as directed in 
 the preceding recipes (see Quenelles, etc.), and, 
 if required, add a little more seasoning or the 
 yolk of another egg: keep the preparation in a 
 cool place or upon ice until it is wanted. It 
 will keep for a day or two. (See also Fobcemeat 
 SOB Quenelles.) 
 
 QUENELLES FOR TURTLE SOUP. 
 
 Take about a quarter of a pound of lean white 
 veal, cut it into long slices, and scrape it with a 
 knife till nothing but the fibre remains. Pound 
 this to a smooth paste, and rub it through a 
 wire sieve upon a plate. Make it into a ball. 
 
 and take its hulli, not its weight, in panada (see 
 Panada) and calf's udder. Many cooks substi- 
 tute fresh butter for the udder : when it is used 
 a smaller proportion will be required. Pound 
 these ingredients, and press them through a 
 sieve, first separately and afterwards together; 
 season the forcemeat with salt, pepper, and 
 grated nutmeg, and add, gradually, the yolks of 
 two eggs and the white of one. After pounding 
 the ingredients together, pass the whole again 
 through a sieve; and before poaching the quen- 
 elles, test a little piece of the forcemeat by 
 throwing it into boiling water. If, when it is 
 taken out, it is not sufficiently firm, add the 
 yolk of another egg. Mould it in balls of any 
 size that may be preferred. Poach these in 
 boiling water until they are sufficiently hard, 
 drain them, when done enough, put them into 
 the tureen, and pour the soup gently over them. 
 The quenelles may be made as small as marbles 
 or as large as eggs; the former size is generally 
 preferred for soup. Time to poach, from six to 
 fifteen minutes, according to size. Probable 
 cost. Is. 3d. for this quantity. Sufficient for a 
 large tureen of soup. 
 
 QUENELLES FOR WHITE AND CLEAR SOUPS. 
 
 Melt an ounce of butter in a stewpan over a 
 gentle fire. Beat it up with a little flour and 
 some thick cream, as much as will make a 
 smooth paste. Add two ounces of boiled macar- 
 oni, two ounces of grated Parmesan, and a little 
 salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Beat the mix- 
 ture over the fire until it is smooth and firm, 
 and leaves the sides of the saucepan with the 
 spoon. Mould it into quenelles with a tea-spoon 
 which has been dipped in hot water, and poach 
 these in boiling gravy till they are done through. 
 Lift them out with a skimmer, and put them 
 into the tureen with the soup. Time, three 
 minutes to poach the quenelles. Sufficient for a 
 small tureen of soup. 
 
 QUENELLES, GERMAN. 
 
 Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a 
 saucepan, with three small cupfuls of milk. 
 When the liquor rises in the pan, stir six ounces 
 of flour quickly into it, add a little salt, pepper, 
 and nutmeg, and stir the paste briskly till it 
 leaves the sides of the saucepan with the spoon. 
 Turn it out, and add gradually three whole eggs 
 and a little grated Parmesan. Mould the quen- 
 elles in the usual way, and let them simmer 
 gently until they are done through. The water 
 or gravy in which these quenelles are poached 
 should not be allowed to boil at all, or the balls 
 will break. Time to simmer, according to size. 
 Probable cost, lOd. for this quantity. 
 
 QUENELLES, LOBSTER (for Fish Soups). 
 
 Take the meat, pith, coral, and spawn of a 
 small hen lobster, and pound it to a paste. Mix 
 with it two table-spoonfuls of finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs and three ounces of butter. Sea- 
 son the forcemeat with a tea-spoonful of 
 anchovy, a little salt, nutmeg, and cayenne, and 
 moisten with the yolks of two eggs and the 
 white of one. Test a little piece, to be sure 
 that it is properly seasoned and firm, and if 
 necessary, add the yolk of another egg. Mould 
 the forcemeat into small quenelles, and brown 
 these in hot fat, or poach them in boiling water. 
 
QUE 
 
 611 
 
 QUE 
 
 They may be served with fish, soup, or, with 
 good gravy poured over them, as a breakfast or 
 supper dish. Time to fry, according to size. 
 Probable cost of lobster, la. to 28. 
 
 QUENELLES, MOULDING OF. 
 
 Take a spoon of the size it is wished the quen- 
 elles should be, fill it with the forcemeat, and 
 smooth the surface with a knife which has been 
 dipped in hot water. Dip another spoon of the 
 same size into hot water, and with it slip the 
 meat out of the first spoon, put it into a but- 
 tered dish, and proceed with another quenelle. 
 When as many are made as are required, slip 
 the quenelles from the dish into a saucepan of 
 lightly salted water, and let them boil until 
 firm. 
 
 QUENELLES OF COD, SALMON, ETC. 
 
 Take the skin from a thick slice of salmon or 
 cod, scrape the flesh with a spoon, and rub it 
 through a wire sieve upon a dish. Pound six 
 ounces of the fish thus prepared, with three 
 ounces of butter, and four ounces of panada; 
 season with salt and cayenne, and then add, 
 gradually, one whole egg, and the yolks of two 
 others. Pound the mixture again, and put it 
 on ice or in a cool place till it is wanted. Any 
 kind of fish forcemeat may be made in the same 
 ■way. 
 
 QUENELLES OF GAME. 
 
 Take the remains of cold game or poultry, 
 carefully remove the skin, bone, a;iid sinew, then 
 mince and pound the meat, and prepare the 
 quenelles according to the recipe already given 
 for quenelle forcemeat. If this method is con- 
 sidered too troublesome, adopt the following. 
 Mince a pound of the meat finely, and pound it 
 in a mortar with three ounces of butter, a little 
 pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and six or 
 eight button mushrooms chopped small. Soak 
 the' crumb of a French roll in gravy, and squeeze 
 the moisture from it. Put it into a stewpan 
 with as much gravy as it will absorb, and stir 
 it over a clear fire till it forms a smooth mass 
 and leaves the side of the saucepan with the 
 spoon. Mix with it the unbeaten yolk of an 
 egg, and set it aside to cool, then pound it with 
 the other ingredients till all are thoroughly 
 blended. Leave the preparation in a cool place 
 or on ice for an hour or two, mould it into balls, 
 dip these in egg and bread-crumb, and fry in 
 hot fat till they are brightly browned. Drain 
 on blotting-paper, and serve on a hot dish, with 
 good brown sauce or mushroom sauce poured 
 over them. Time to fry, about ten minutes. 
 
 QUENELLES OF GAME (another way). 
 
 Pick the meat from the remains of cold game, 
 and carefully remove the skin, bone, and sinew. 
 Cut it small, and put half a pound of it into 
 a mortar, with a tea-spoonful of flour, an ounce 
 of butter, half an ounce of fat bacon, and a 
 little salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Pound 
 the mixture to a smooth paste, and bind it 
 together with the unbeaten yolk of an egg. 
 Mould into balls in the usual way, and boil ' 
 these gently in a little gravy till they are done 
 through. Drain, and serve piled high on a 
 hot dish, with mushroom sauce poured round 
 them. Time to boil, about a quarter of an 
 hour. 
 
 2p 
 
 QUENELLES OF GROUSE. 
 
 Cut the meat from the remains of ' dressed 
 grouse. Bemove the skin and sinew, and pound 
 the flesh in a mortar until it can be rubbed 
 through a coarse sieve. To every pound of meat 
 add half a pound of bread-crumb, soaked in 
 milk and drained, one ounce of fat bacon, two 
 ounces of butter, half a tea-spoonful of salt, the 
 same of pepper, the eighth of a nutmeg, grated, 
 and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. When 
 these ingredients are well mixed, pound them 
 again all together; then add the wnites of the 
 eggs, beaten to a firm froth. Divide the mix- 
 ture into small quantities. Form these as 
 nearly as possible of the size and shape of an 
 egg; poaph them in boiling stock, drain well, 
 and serve in a dish, with some nicely-flavoured 
 gravy, made from the bones and trimmings of 
 the grouse, and thickened with arrowroot. 
 Time, a quarter of an hour to poach. Probable 
 cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 8d. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. 
 
 QUENELLES OF RABBIT. 
 
 Cut the meat from a boiled rabbit, and care- 
 fully remove every particle of skin and sinew. 
 Pound it till smooth, and press it through a 
 sieve. Put a calf's udder into a stewpan with 
 as much cold water as will cover it. Let it boil 
 gently, and when it is done enough, take it out 
 and let it cool. Trim away the upper parts, cut 
 it up small, pound it in a mortar, and then press 
 it through a sieve. Chop up six small mush- 
 rooms, and put them into a stewpan, with a 
 piece of butter the size of an egg, the peel of 
 a quarter of a thinly-sliced lemon, a chopped 
 shallot, a pinch of powdered thyme, a tea- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley, and a little pepper 
 and salt. Steam these ingredients over a gentle 
 fire for ten minutes. Soak the crumb of two 
 French rolls in milk. When quite soft, put 
 them into a napkin, and squeeze the moisture- 
 from them. Put them into the stewpan with 
 the seasoning, add a table-spoonful of white 
 sauce, and beat the mixture over a gentle fire 
 until it is quite dry and leaves the stewpan 
 with the spoon. Take it from the fire, and mix 
 with it the yolk of an ^%%. Put the panada, 
 the calf's udder that has passed through the 
 sieve, and the pounded meat into a cool place, 
 and leave them for an hour. To make the- 
 quenelles, take an equal quantity (not weight), 
 of each of the three, pound together with a 
 whole egg, and press the mixture through a, 
 sievci Poach a little piece in boiling water, 
 and if it is properly seasoned, firm, and light, 
 mould the quenelles. Poach them in boiling 
 water, serve on a hot dish, pouring over them 
 good white sauce flavoured with mushrooms. 
 Poich the quenelles till they are firm, which 
 will be in from three to twelve minutes, accord- 
 ing to size. Probable cost of rabbit, 7d. to- 
 lOd. per pound. 
 
 QUENELLES, RAGOUT OF. 
 
 Take half a pound of any kind of dressed 
 meat, game, or poultry. Cut it small, and 
 pound it in a mortar. Mix with it its weight 
 in bread-crumbs, and add a salt-spoonful of 
 chopped parsley, a salt-spoonful of thin lemon- 
 rind, cut very small, half an anchovy, boned 
 and pounded, a little salt, pepper, and grated 
 
QUI 
 
 642 
 
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 nutmeg,, and half a cloTe of garlic, if liked. 
 Found these ingredients thoioughly. Mix them 
 up with an ounce of clarified butter, and when 
 cool, bind the mixture together with the yolk 
 of an egg. Make it into balls the size of a 
 walnut- fry these in hot fat, drain them, put 
 them on a hot dish, and pour over them a rich 
 brown gravy. If liked, the quenelles may be 
 poached in boiling water instead of being fried 
 in fat, and white sauce, in which a few mush- 
 rooms have been boiled, can be poured on. The 
 juice of a lemon should be squeezed over before 
 the sauce is poured upon them. Time to poach 
 or fry the quenelles, five to ten minutes, or until 
 they are firm. Probable cost, exclusive of the 
 gravy. Is. Sufficient for a, small dish. 
 
 QUINCE. 
 
 The common quince is a hard and austere 
 fruit; when stewed with sugar, however, it be- 
 comes uncommonly pleasant, and in this way is 
 often eaten alone; it is frequently employed to 
 impart a flavour to apple pies. It is much used 
 to make a preserve known as quince marmalade. 
 A delicious beverage, something like cider, is 
 also made from it. The seeds readily impart 
 
 aulNCE BLANCMANGE. 
 
 their mucilage to water, and will convert forty 
 or fifty times their" weight in water into a sub- 
 stance thick as syrnp. The quince was grown 
 Ijy the ancient Greeks and Bomans ; in our own 
 day it is cultivated in the South of Europe, in 
 England, and in temjperate climates generally. 
 Quinces are peculiar for the strong odour which 
 they exhale : this odour is a sign that they are 
 fit for use. On account of it, the fruit should 
 not be kept closely shut up in a place where the 
 smell is likely to be unpleasant. 
 
 QUINCE AND APPLE MARMALADE. 
 
 Take a pint of quince juice, prepared as 
 directed in a succeeding recipe (^ee Quince 
 Juicb). Put it into a preserving-pan, with one 
 pound of nicely-flavoured apples, pared, cored, 
 and quartered, and simmer gently until the 
 apples are ^uite soft. Lift the pan from the 
 £re, and stir in three-quarters of a pound of 
 finely-sifted sugar: when this is dissolved, put 
 the pan again upon the fire, and boil the mar- 
 malade quickly for twenty minutes, taking care 
 
 to stir it well, or it will burn. Turn it while 
 hot into glasses or jars, and cover in the usual 
 way. Store in a cool dry place. Time to boil 
 the apples, one hour. 
 
 QUINCE BLANCMANGE. 
 
 Fare two or three pounds of c[uinces without 
 coring them, and throw them into cold water 
 as soon as they are peeled. Drain them, and put 
 them into a saucepan, with as much cold water 
 as will cover them, let them simmer gently 
 until tender, and turn them into a bowl. The 
 next day strain the juice through a jelly-bag, 
 and put it, when clear, into a saucepan, and 
 with each pint put one and a half ounces of 
 isinglass or gelatine, and half a pound of loaf 
 sugar, or a little more, if that is not enough 
 to suit the taste. Simmer all gently together 
 until the isinglass is dissolved, and carefully 
 remove the scum as it rises. | Pour the blanc- 
 mange out, and stir into it, very gradually, 
 about a pint of thick sweet cream : continue to 
 stir until it is almost cold. Pour it into a 
 mould that has been soaked in cold water, and 
 put it in a cool place, or upon ice, until set. 
 Time, half an hour to boil the quince juice with 
 the isinglass. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient 
 for eight or nine persons. 
 
 QUINCE CAKES. 
 
 Wash the quinces without peeling, boil them 
 in just enough water to barely cover them till 
 they are quite soft, and thenrub them through 
 a coarse sieve. Mix a pound and a half of 
 pounded sugar with each quart of juice, and 
 make it as hot as possible without boiling it. 
 Spread it out upon shallow dishes, and dry in 
 a cool oven or before the fire. Cut the fruit 
 into small shapes. 
 
 QUINCE CAKES (another way). 
 
 Peel half a dozen quinces, remove the cores, 
 and boil the fruit in a pint of the syrup of 
 quinces, and the same quantity of syrup of 
 raspberries, until it becomes reduced to pulp ; 
 then strain through a coarse sieve. To this 
 pulp add three table-spoonfuls of loaf sugar, 
 and boil it down till it is ready to candy. Make 
 the pulp into cakes, and dry these on tin plates 
 
 in a cool oven. 
 QUINCE CHEESE. 
 
 Boil the quinces, and rub them to a pulp, as 
 in the last recipe. ■V\[eigh this pulp and also 
 an equal weight of sugar. Boil the fruit till 
 it is dry; pound the sugar, stir it, and keep 
 stirring over a gentle fire until the jam is stiff 
 and smooth, and so dry that it leaves the sides 
 of the saucepan with a spoon. Spread it out on 
 shallow dishes, or make little paper cases, pour 
 the fruit in to the depth of half an inch, and, 
 if necessary, dry in a cool oven until the fruit 
 is quite stiff. If the cheese has been spread on 
 dishes, cut it into fancy shapes, and store these 
 in a tin box between sheets of writing paper. 
 If paper cases are used they can be taken off 
 easily if they are dipped for a moment in cold 
 water. 
 
 QUINCE CHEESECAKE. 
 
 Line a soup plate with crust, then pour some 
 golden syrup over, and lay some quince jam on 
 top to completely cover the syrup, squeeze a 
 little lemon-juice over, a good sprinkling of 
 
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 sugar, and some small pieces of butter; then 
 ornament the top with leaves of pastry or any 
 other fancy design. Bake in a moderate oven 
 for twenty-five minutes, or until the pastry is 
 browned. 
 
 QUINCE CREAM. 
 
 Take some ripe quinces, roast them, remove 
 the cores, and cut them into thin slices. Boil 
 the quinces in a pint of cream, with ginger, 
 then strain and flavour with loaf sugar. 
 
 QUINCE CUSTARD. 
 
 Pare the quinces, and simmer them gently 
 till they are tender in as much water as will 
 barely cover them. Pour off the juice, and 
 strain it through a jelly-bag. Boil a pint of 
 it with five' ounces of loaf sugar, and mix it 
 very gradually whilst hot with the yolks of ten 
 well-beaten eggs. Pour the custard into a 
 heated jug, |)ut this into a saucepan of hot 
 water, and stir over the fire until the custard 
 begins to thicken. Pour it into glasses, and it 
 is ready for serving. Sufficient for a pint and 
 a half of custard. 
 
 QUINCE JELLY. 
 
 Choose quinces that are ripe and yellow, but 
 quite sound. Wash, but do not peel them, cut 
 them into slices, and put them into a preserving- 
 pan. Shake them well down, barely cover them 
 with water, and let them boil gently until they 
 are soft, but they must not be allowed to remain 
 so long as to deepen their colour. Turn them 
 into a jelly-bag, and let the juice drain from 
 them without pressure : filter it two or three 
 times, if necessary, till it is clear and bright. 
 Measure the juice, and boil it quickly for twenty 
 minutes. Take it from the fire, and stir into it, 
 until dissolved, twelve ounces of powdered lump 
 sugar for each pint of juice. Boil it again, and 
 carefully remove the scum as it rises. Let it 
 boil until it will jelly when a little is put upon 
 a plate. Pour it at once into glasses or small 
 moulds. The jelly ought to boil quickly, or the 
 colour will not be good. The pulp left in the 
 jelly-bag may be boiled with moist sugar for 
 common use; half a pound of sugar will be 
 sufficient for each pound of pulp. Time, twenty 
 minutes to boil the juice by itself ; a few minutes 
 to boil it with the sugar, or till it jellies. 
 
 QUINCE JELLY (another way). 
 
 Take one quart of quince juice, and add to it 
 one pound of loaf sugar; boil until it will jelly. 
 Boil it again with a pint of white wine in which 
 an ounce of gum arabic has been dissolved, and 
 pour it into pots or glasses. When cold it will 
 set to a solid jelly. • 
 
 QUINCE JELLY (another way). 
 
 Cut thirty-six quinces into small bits, with 
 about two quarts of water; let them boil slowly 
 till the fruit is quite in a mash; keep them 
 covered close, and let about a third boil away. 
 Eun the liquor through a jelly-bag, and put to 
 every pint a pound of fine white sugar; put into 
 a preserving-pan, and boil till thick. It should 
 "be boiled till its consistency is such, that when 
 cold it may turn out of the mould to be used. 
 
 QUINCE JUICE. 
 
 Pare, core, and quarter some very ripe quinces. 
 Put them into an earthen jar, with a pint of 
 
 cold water for each pound of fruit. Cover the 
 jar closely, place it in a saucepan of water, and 
 let the fruit steam gently until it is broken. 
 Then lift the jar out of the water, remove the 
 cover, and leave the fruit untouched until the 
 next day. Turn it into a jelly-bag, and strain 
 the juice until it is clear and bright, when it 
 will be ready for use. The pulp may be boiled 
 with moist sugar for common use. If the 
 quinces are allowed to boil too long their colour 
 will be spoilt. 
 
 QUINCE JUICE (another way). 
 
 Take some ripe quinces, peel and grate them ; 
 then squeeze the juice through a cloth. Have 
 ready some sugar boiled to a s^rup, put in the 
 juice, and let it boil till it jellies, when it does 
 may be known by putting a spoonful on a plate 
 to cool. The proportion of sugar to be used is 
 half a pound to every pint of juice. 
 
 QUINCE KERNELS. 
 
 The kernels of quinces should be carefully pre- 
 served and dried, and when required will make 
 a soothing poultice for burns and scalds. To 
 prepare it, soak a few in water. They will 
 shortly form a kind of jelly, and this should be 
 applied to the injured part. 
 
 QUINCE LIQUEUR. 
 
 Wash and dry some ripe quinces, and core, 
 but do not peel them. Grate them on a coarse 
 grater. Spread the fruit on a large dish, 
 sprinkle powdered and sifted sugar lightly over 
 it, and let it lie for twenty-four hours. Turn 
 the whole into a hair sieve which rests upon 
 two sticks placed across a basin; strain the 
 juice until it is quite clear. Measure this, and 
 with each pint of jiiice put half a, pound of 
 refined sugar,i and a pint of brandy or whiskey. 
 Let the liqueur stand for a fortnight, shaking 
 it each day. Bottle for use. 
 
 QUINCE MARMALADE. 
 
 When quinces emit their peculiar strong odour 
 it is a sign that they are fit for use. Peel the 
 quinces, core them, slice them into a preserv- 
 ing-pan, and pour over them as much water as 
 will barely cover them. Let them simmer very 
 gently until they are soft, stirring them occa- 
 sionally to keep them from burning to the pan ; 
 then beat them to a pulp with a Wooden spoon. 
 Weigh the fruit, and for each pound allow 
 three-quarters of a pound of sugar. Put the 
 sugar into a preserving-pan, with as much water 
 as will moisten it, and boil it to a clear syrup. 
 Put in the fruit and boil it slowly till it is 
 smooth and thick. Stir frequently whilst it is 
 being boiled. The marmalade will be done 
 enough when it will jelly when dropped upon a 
 plate. Put it, whilst hot, into glasses or jars, 
 and when it is cool, cover in the usual way, with 
 paper dipped in the white of egg. Time, five 
 hours or more. 
 
 QUINCE MARMALADE (another way). 
 
 Pare some quinces that are quite ripe, cut 
 them into quarters, core them, and put them 
 into a saucepan; cover them with the parings; 
 fill the saucepan nearly full of spring water, 
 cover it close, and let the quinces stew over a 
 slow fire till soft and of a pink colour; then 
 pick out all the quinces from the parings ; beat 
 them to a pulp in a marble mortar or wooden 
 
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 Ui 
 
 QUI 
 
 bowl ; put the same weight of fine loaf sugar as 
 there is pulp into as much of the water they 
 were stewed in as will dissolve the sugar. Boil 
 and skim well, then put in the pulp of the 
 quinces ; boil gently for three-quarters of an 
 hour, stirring all the time, or the marmalade 
 will, stick to the pan and burn. Put it in pots, 
 and tie down close. 
 
 QUINCE MARMALADE (another way). 
 
 Take quinces that are quite ripe, pare, cut 
 them into quarters, taking out tne core, and 
 put them into a stewpan, with spring water 
 enough to cover them. Keep them closely cov- 
 ered, and let them stew gently till they ar^ 
 quite soft and red, then mash and rub them 
 through a hair sieve. Put them in a pan over 
 a gentle fire, with as much clarified sugar as 
 the weigEt of the quinces. Boil for an hour, 
 stirring all the time, to keep the marmalade 
 from sticking. Put it into pots, and tie down 
 when cold. 
 
 QUINCE MARMALADE, SUPERIOR. 
 
 Take some ripe quinces, wash them, and put 
 them whole into a preserving-pan, with as much 
 boiling water as will cover them. Let them 
 simmer gently until they are so soft that they 
 can be easily pierced with a pin. Lift them 
 out, peel and core them, put the cores and skins 
 back into the water, and boil until it is con- 
 siderably reduced, then strain it. Cut the fruit 
 into thin slices. Weigh these with an equal 
 weight of refined sugar. Put them with the 
 sugar into a preserving-pan, pour over them 
 the strained liquor, boil the whole sloyly over 
 a gentle fire, and stir with a wooden spoon till 
 it is thick and smooth. In order to ascertain 
 whether or not it is done enough put a little 
 every now and then upon a plate, and when 
 it jellies it is done. Put it, whilst hot, into 
 glasses or jars, and cover in the usual way. 
 Time, five hours or more. 
 
 QUINCE PASTE, FOR DESSERT. 
 
 Take some ripe quinces, pare, core, and 
 quarter them, and boil them until they are soft 
 in as much water as will barely cover them. 
 Lift them out, drain them, and rub them 
 through a sieve. Stir the pulp over a clear fire 
 until it forms a dry paste. Weigh it, mix with 
 it its weight in powdered and sifted sugar, and 
 stir it unceasingly over a gentle fire until it is 
 firm, and leaves the sides of the saucepan with 
 the spoon. Press it into shallow pans, and 
 when it is cold stamp it out into shapes, and. 
 If necessary, dry these in a cool oven until they 
 are entirely free from moisture. Store in tin 
 boxes between sheets of ' writing paper. The 
 paste may, if liked, be more strongly flavoured 
 by boiling the fruit in quince juice instead of 
 water. iSme, four to five hours. 
 
 QUINCE PIE. 
 
 Line the edges of a pie-dish with a short 
 paste. Fill the dish with quinces, pared, 
 cored, and quartered, sprinkle a little sugar on 
 the top, and add a pinch of grated lemon- 
 peel. Moisten the edges, cover the dish with 
 pastry, and bake in a moderate oven. Sift 
 a little powdered sugar over the pie before 
 sending it to table. Time to bake, according 
 to size. 
 
 QUINCE PUDDING. 
 
 Take six or eight large ripe quinces. Pare, 
 core, and quarter them, and put them into a 
 saucepan, with as much boiling water as will 
 cover them, and let them simmer gently until 
 soft. Press them through a sieve, sweeten the 
 pulp, and flavour with lemon, cinnamon, or 
 ginger. When it is cool, stir into it a pint of 
 thick cream and the well-beaten yolks of three 
 eggs. Line a pie-dish with good puffi-paste, 
 pour in the prepare'd quince, and bake in a 
 moderate oven. Sift white sugar thickly over 
 the pudding before sending it to table. Time 
 to bake, about an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 QUINCES, BRANDIED. 
 
 Weigh some ripe quinces, and allow three- 
 quarters of a pound of loaf sugar to each pound 
 of fruit. Wash the quinces, put them, without 
 paring them, into a preserving-pan, with as 
 much water as will barely cover them, and let 
 them simmer gently until they are so soft that 
 a pin can be easily stuck into them ; drain them, 
 and put them aside. Boil the sugar with as 
 much water as will moisten it, and when bubbles 
 form in it put in the quinces ; let them boil up 
 once, and put them aside until the next day. 
 Pour the syrup from them, and put them into 
 wide-mouthed bottles. Boil the syrup until it 
 is thick and clear, let it get cold, and mix with 
 it an equal quantity of brandy. Pour this liquor 
 over the fruit, tie bladders over the mouths of 
 the bottles, and store in a cool dry place. 
 
 QUINCES, COMPOTE OF. 
 
 Peel and cut eight quinces into thick slices, 
 put them into a stewpan with just enough water 
 to cover, and four ounces of loaf sugar; stew 
 for about four hours or until soft, when they 
 should be of a rich maroon colour. Then lay 
 the fruit on a dish, reduce the syrup, and when 
 thick and nearly cold, pour over. Allow the 
 fruit to get perfectly cold, then heap thick 
 Devonshire cream on top, and ornament with 
 ratafia biscuits. 
 
 QUINCE SNOW (for Dessert). 
 
 Take some fine fresh quinces, and boil them 
 till tender. Peel, cut them into slices, and 
 mash them. Weigh out an equal quantity of 
 sugar. To every pound of quinces, take the 
 whites of three eggs beaten up, and add them 
 one after the other, turning always the same 
 way. After each addition, add also a spoonful 
 of sugar. Continue beating till the whole is 
 white and frothy: the longer it is beaten the 
 better the snow will be. Spread it upon wafer- 
 paper in any shapes you please, and let the snow 
 dry in the sun. 
 
 QUINCES, PRESERVED. 
 
 Pare, core, and quarter the fruit. Boil in 
 clear water until tender, but not broken. Take 
 out the fruit carefully, and throw away the 
 water. Make a syrup by taking half a pound of 
 sugar to each pound of fruit, and a pint of water 
 to every three pounds of sugar. When the 
 syrup is boiling hot put in the fruit, and let it 
 cook as slowly as possible for an hour. It 
 should then be a bright red colour, and the 
 syrup should be jelly-like. Put into glass jars, 
 and cover tightly. 
 
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 645 
 
 RAB 
 
 QUINCES, PRESERVED (another way). 
 
 Soak the quinces before they are quite ripe in 
 salt and water for twenty-four hours. Then 
 take them out, dip them in a hot pickle of white 
 wine vinegar, salt, mace, cloves, and bay-leaves 
 boiled together, and preserve them in a stone 
 jar, covered with vinegar. 
 
 QUINCES, PRESERVED WHOLE. 
 
 Pare some ripe quinces, and scoop out the 
 cores without opening the fruit. Put them 
 into boiling water, and let them simmer gently 
 until they are tender without being broken. 
 Drain them, put them aside to cool, and boil the 
 liquor with a pound of sugar for every pound of 
 fruit; pour it over the quinces, and let them 
 remain until the next day. Add to the syrup 
 as much apple jelly as will cover the fruit. 
 Dissolve it with the syrup, and put the quinces 
 into it. Let them boil quickly until they look 
 clear, then put them into glasses. Put a small 
 portion of the liquor upon a plate, and if it will 
 jelly when cold, it is ready for pouring over the 
 fruit; if not, it must be boiled until it will do 
 so. If no apple jelly is at hand, it may be 
 made as follows. Take some fine golden pippins 
 or small crab apples, rub them with a soft cloth, 
 and put them, without paring them, into a pre- 
 serving-pan, with as much water as will barely 
 cover them. Let them simmer gently until the 
 fruit is quite soft. Strain the juice through a 
 jelly-bag, two or three times if necessary, until 
 it is quite clear, and boil it, with a pound of 
 sugar for every pint of liquor, until it will jelly 
 when a little is put upon a plate ; it is then 
 ready for use. If liked, quince-juice may be 
 used instead of apple jelly to cover the fruit. 
 To make this, cut up some small quinces with- 
 out coring or paring them, and boil them in as 
 much water as will cover them until the liquor 
 is strongly flavoured with them. Strain the 
 juice, and boil it, with a pound of sugar to each 
 pint, until it will jelly. If when the quinces 
 are being boiled in the jelly they seem likely to 
 break, they must be lifted one by one care- 
 fully out of the syrup, put into a jar, and the 
 syrup poured over them, then boiled again the 
 next day. 'Time, two o< three " 
 
 QUINCES, RATAFIA OF (a French recipe). 
 
 Grate ripe quinces tirf you come to the core, 
 but be careful there are no pips. Let the mass 
 remain for three days in an earthen pan ; squeeze 
 it to extract all the juice ; measure the juice, and 
 • add to it an equal quantity of brandy. Allow 
 six ounces of sugar to each quart of the quince- 
 juice and brandy, with some cinnamon and 
 cloves to taste. Let it infuse for two months, 
 then filter it, and pour it into bottles. This 
 liqueur, when old, is excellent. 
 
 QUINCE TART. 
 
 Put one pound of sugar into a brass pan, pour 
 over it a pint of water, and boil the sugar to a 
 syrup. Slice a pound of quinces into it, and let 
 all boil till it becomes a marmalade, stirring all 
 the time. Next take six ounces of chopped 
 almonds, two ounces of citron, the peel of two 
 lemons cut very thin, or grated, together with 
 the juice of the lemons. Let all boil up ; cover 
 a baking-plate with wafer-paper, pour it over, 
 and make it smooth. When the tart is baked. 
 
 beat up the juice of two lemons with pounded 
 sugar till it is white like ice ; cover the tart with 
 it, and let it dry in a cool oven. 
 
 QUINCE WINE. 
 
 This is made by mixing one quart of the juice 
 of quinces with one pound of sugar, and then 
 suffering the liquid to ferment. By adding to 
 the same quantity one pint of the best French 
 brandy and four ounces of sugar, a celebrated 
 liqueur is prepared on the Continent, which used 
 to be gi-eatly prized as a cordial and stomachic 
 when taken in small quantities — say two or three 
 table-spoonfuls at » time. 
 
 QUINCE WINE (another way). 
 
 Take twelve quinces, cut them into slices, and 
 boil for a quarter of an hour in a gallon of water. 
 Then add two pounds of lump sugar; ferment, 
 and add one gallon of lemon-wine, and one 
 quart of brandy or other spirit. 
 
 QUIN'S SAUCE (an old-fashioned Fish sauce). 
 
 Put a quarter of a pint of walnut pickle into 
 a saucepan, with a quarter of a pint of port, half 
 a pint of mushroom ketchup, a dozen anchovies, 
 boned and pounded, a dozen sliced shallots, half 
 a tea-spoonful of cayenne, and two table-spoon- 
 fuls of soy. Simmer all gently for ten minutes, 
 strain the sauce, and, when cold, bottle for use. 
 Securely corked and stored in a cool place, the' 
 sauce will keep for some time. 
 
 QUIN'S SAUCE (another way). 
 
 To a quart of walnut pickle add six anchovies, 
 six bay-Iea+es, six shallots, three cloves, a blade 
 of mace, half a tea-spoonful of cayenne, and a 
 dozen peppercorns. Boil the whole until the 
 anchovies are dissolved. Take it off the fire ; 
 when cold, add half a pint of red wine, and 
 bottle the sauce, corking the bottles well. 
 
 QUIPS AND QUAIMPS. 
 
 Beat the whites of six eggs till foamy, 
 add half a tea-spoonful of cream of tartar, and 
 beat till dry; fold into the mixture one cup 
 and a half of powdered sugar, and a tea- 
 spoonful of vanilla extract. Cover half-inch 
 boards that will fit into the oven with strips 
 of paper about three inches wide, tacking the 
 ends to keep papers in place. Put the mixture, 
 in large spoonfuls, upon the papers, giving the 
 meringues a smooth, oval shape. Sift a little 
 sugar over the tops, and bake in a very moder- 
 ate oven for forty-five minutes. Remember, the 
 process is one of drying rather than baking. 
 Just before removing from the oven, increase 
 the heat and brown delicately. The instant a 
 board is removed from the oven take out the 
 tacks and invert the paper and the meringue. 
 Eeniove the gaper, scoop out the soft centres, 
 sprinkle the insides with sugar, and return to 
 oven to dry. Pass a hot skewer through each 
 meringue near the edge, insert a narrow ribbon, 
 and tie two together to form a shell. Pill with 
 whipped cream; add a glace cherry or straw- 
 berry. 
 
 R 
 
 RABBIT. 
 
 Tame rabbits are larger than wild ones, and 
 the flesh whiter and more delicate. Of these 
 the Ostend rabbits are most highly valued.' 
 Wild rabbits are considered to possess the finer 
 
RAB 
 
 616 
 
 RAB 
 
 flavour. Rabbits are highly esteemed for food, 
 and are valuable because they can be served in 
 so many ways. As the meat is rather dry, bacon 
 is generally served with them. When used for 
 the table, they should be young, and should 
 not have been kept more than a day or two. 
 They have been more highly prized of late years 
 than they used to be, probably because in their 
 wild state they are less plentiful than formerly, 
 in consequence of the advance of agriculture, 
 and the employment of light lands for more 
 profitable purposes than rabbit-warrens. M. 
 Ude gives some additional particulars on this 
 head: — "It is to be observed," he says, "that 
 warren rabbits only ought to be sent up to a 
 g:ood table, tame rabbits in general having but 
 little flavour; and you must be particular in 
 using for table only young rabbits. Whether 
 they are so may be ascertained by breaking the 
 jaw between the thumb and finger; if they are 
 old, they resist the pressure. Also by feeling 
 in the joint of the paw for a little nut; if it 
 is gone, the rabbit is old and not fit for fine 
 cookery. In such cases use them to make 
 rabbit puddings or pies." 
 
 RABBIT [k la Juliette). 
 
 Bone a young rabbit, and use the best parts 
 only, the others can go into the stock-pot. Pass 
 it through a mincing machine with two ounces 
 of cooked ham, add the yolks of three eggs and a 
 gill of thick bechamel, and mix well. Butter 
 a plain border mould, put some cooked ham cut 
 in strips at the bottom, and over that a layer 
 of f«M:cement. Pill up with the rabbit mixture 
 after adding to it the whites of the eggs beaten 
 stiffly. Cover with a piece of buttered paper 
 and steam for an hour. When done, turn out 
 and fill the centre with a Macedoine of 
 Veoetables. 
 RABBIT (a la Minute). 
 
 Cut a fresh young rabbit into neat joints. 
 Dissolve two or three ounces of butter in a stew- 
 pan, put in the pieces of rabbit, and turn them 
 about until they are lightly browned all over. 
 Pour over them as much stock or water as will 
 cover them, and add a little pepper and salt, 
 a, blade of mace, two table-spoonfuls of chopped 
 parsley, and three or four mushrooms if these 
 are to be had. Let all simmer gently together 
 until the rabbit is done enough, and, ten min- 
 utes before it is taken from the fire, thicken the 
 gravy with a dessert-spoonful of flour. Serve 
 very hot. A glassful of sherry may be added to 
 the sauce or not. Time altogether, forty min- 
 utes. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for two 
 or three persons. 
 
 RABBIT (^ la Poulette). 
 
 Cut up a fresh young rabbit into neat joints 
 convenient for serving. Lay these in a pie-dish, 
 cover with equal parts of milk and water, and 
 let them soak for an hour or two; this will 
 render them juicy and tender. Drain them, put 
 them into a stewpan, pour over them as much 
 boiling white stock or water as will cover them, 
 and add a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoon- 
 ful of white pepper, a bunch of parsley, two 
 small button onions, a blade of mace, and six 
 or eight mushrooms. Let the sauce boil up, 
 then draw the saucepan to the side, and let its 
 contents simmer very gently indeed for half an 
 
 hour. Take up the meat, and set it aside for a 
 short time. Strain the sauce, and boil quickly 
 until it is reduced one-third. Stir into it two 
 table-spoonfuls of thick cream, put in the pieces 
 of rabbit, and let them remain until they are 
 hot through, but the sauce must not boil after 
 the meat is put in a second time. Arrange the 
 rabbit in a dish, pour the sauce over it, and 
 garnish with parsley and cut lemon. A glassful 
 of light wine may be added to the sauce or not. 
 Time altogether, two hours. Probable cost, 
 2s. 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 RABBIT (k la Tartare). 
 
 Take a rabbit, and bone it ; then cut it into 
 pieces, ■yhich marinade some hours in parsley, 
 mushrooms, chives, and a clove of garlic, all 
 chopped fine, together with pepper, salt, and 
 oil ; . dip each piece of rabbit in bread-crumbs, 
 broil, sprinkling the pieces with the marinade. 
 Serve in a sauce a la Tartare {see Taetab Sauce). 
 Probable cost, rabbit, 7d. to 9d. per pound. 
 
 RABBIT AND EEL, MATELOTE OF. 
 
 Take a plump young rabbit, a fine eel, and 
 three or four slices of bacon. Skin, empty, and 
 wash the rabbit, cut it into small joints, and if 
 the head is to be used, split it in halves, and 
 take out the eyes. Skin and empty the eel, and 
 divide it into short lengths. Fry the rabbit and 
 eel in hot fat, together with the bacon cut into 
 dice; till all are brightly browned and half 
 cooked; take them up, set them aside, and in 
 the same fat fry half a dozen button onions or 
 two moderate-sized onions sliced, and a dozen 
 button mushrooms if these are to be had. When 
 these also are browned, put them in a clean 
 saucepan with the fried rabbit and eel, and mix 
 as much flour with the hot fat as is required to 
 make a smooth paste. Moisten this with stock 
 or water to make gravy of the consistency of 
 cream, put into this the fried meat, onions, and 
 mushrooms, and add the liver and heart of the 
 rabbit, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little 
 pepper and salt if required. Simmer all gently 
 together till the rabbit is tender. When done 
 enough, pile the rabbit in the centre of a dish, 
 arrange the pieces of eel and the bacon round 
 it, and keep the meat hot. Strain the gravy, 
 put a glassful of wine into it, boil it down till 
 it is smooth and thick, and pour it over the 
 meat. Serve immediately. When mushrooms 
 are not at hand, a tea-spoonful of anchovy and 
 a spoonful of bruised capers, or three or four 
 gherkins chopped small, may be stirred into the 
 sauce by way of a substitute. This recipe may* 
 be used for a rabbit alone, or an eel alone, as 
 well as for the two together. Time, half an 
 hour to simmer the rabbit, etc. Probable cost 
 of rabbit, 7d. to 9d. per pound; eel, very vari- 
 able. Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 RABBIT, BAKED. 
 
 Skin, draw, and wash thoroughly a young rab- 
 bit, and let it lie in milk and water for an hour 
 or two. Drain it, and cut it up into small neat 
 joints convenient for serving. Pepper these 
 lightly, place them in a single layer in a 
 baking-tin, and cover each piece with a rasher 
 of bacon. Put the tin into a moderately-heated 
 oven, and bake the rabbit until it is done 
 enough. Arrange the rabbit and bacon alter- 
 nately in a circle on a hot dish, and pour the 
 
RAB 
 
 617 
 
 RAB 
 
 gravy in the tin over them. Serve very hot, 
 with mashed potatoes as an accompaniment. 
 Time to bake, from three-quarters ol an hour 
 to one hour. Probable cost, 7d. to 9d. per 
 pound. Sufficient, one rabbit for two or three 
 persons. 
 
 RABBIT, BAKED (another way). 
 
 Take a plump young rabbit. Skin, empty, 
 and wash it, line the inside with slices of fat 
 bacon, and fill it with good veal forcemeat. 
 Sew it up, and truss it firmly, with the fore legs 
 skewered backward, the back legs forward, and 
 the head in an upright position. Lay a slice of 
 fat bacon over the back, and put the rabbit in 
 a deep dripping-tin, then lay three or four lumps 
 of butter or dripping upon it, and place it in a 
 moderate oven. When it is almost done enough, 
 dredge a little flour over it, baste it again, and 
 set it in the oven to brown. Lift it upon a hot 
 dish, remove the skewers, pour a spoonful or 
 two of good brown gravy over it, and send some 
 more to table iu a tureen. Garnish the dish 
 with slices of fat bacon. If liked, red-currant 
 jelly may accompany the baked rabbit. Time 
 to bake, from three-quarters of an hour to one 
 hour ; less if the rabbit is small. Probable cost 
 of rabbit, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 
 RABBIT, BAKED, AND MACARONI. 
 
 Cut a rabbit into joints, or truss it if pre- 
 ferred; butter it well, and lay it in a baking- 
 dish on some slices of ham. Place it in a moder- 
 ately-heated oven, and let it remain there, bast- 
 ing now and then with more butter. Take a 
 quarter of a pound of Naples macaroni, break 
 it iu pieces about two inches in length, and 
 throw these into a stewpan of boiling stock. 
 Let the macaroni simmer till tender, then strain 
 it; mix with it one ounce of white sugar, and 
 two ounces of fresh butter, season to taste, and 
 add to the rabbit a table-spoonfui of brandy 
 and a table-spoonful of lemon-juice. Place the 
 macaroni in the dish with the rabbit, bake until 
 the macaroni is of a pleasant brown colour, and 
 send to table in the dish in which the rabbit 
 was baked. Time, the rabbit must be at least 
 half an hour in the oven before the addition of 
 the macaroni. 
 RABBIT, BAKED, WITH RICE. 
 
 Cut up a fat young rabbit into neat joints, 
 and pepper these rather highly. Dissolve three 
 or four ounces of bacon fat or good dripping in 
 a saucepan, put in the pieces of rabbit, and let 
 them steam over a gentle fire until they are 
 lightly browned and half cooked. Take them 
 up, drain them, and put them aside. Wash half a 
 pound of rice, and put it into a saucepan with a 
 quart of nicely-flavoured stock and half a blade 
 of mace. Let it simmer until it is tender and 
 has absorbed the liquor, then let it cool, and 
 stir in with it a large slice of fresh butter and 
 the yolks of four eggs. Butter a deep dish, lay 
 the pieces of rabbit into it, pour over them a 
 large spoonful of chutney, and then spread the 
 rice on the top. Lay the beaten yolks of two 
 eggs upon the rice, and bake the preparation in 
 a brisk oven. Serve very hot in the dish in 
 which it was baked. Time to bake, half an 
 hour. Probable cost, 3s. 4d. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. 
 
 RABBIT BARBECUED. 
 
 Take a young rabbit, open it all down, cut its 
 head off, and wash it thoroughly; then lay it, 
 back downward, in cold water, slightly salted, 
 for an hour. Dry it thoroughly, and leave it 
 for an hour or two ; then cut it in several places 
 across the back, and once in the thick part of 
 the leg. Then dip it entirely in hot fat, pepper 
 it well, and cook it before the fire or on a grid- 
 iron. Turn it frequently, and baste with fat 
 during the cooking, which will take from twenty 
 to thirty minutes. When nicely browned, put 
 it on a hot dish with plenty of seasoning and 
 some clarified butter; put a cover over, and set 
 it in a, hot oven for a few minutes. Mix to- 
 gether a, tea-spoonful of French mustard, a 
 table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and a small quan- 
 tity of gravy made from the head. Heat this, 
 and pour it over the rabbit. Put it on a hot 
 dish, with slices of lemon, sprigs of fried pars- 
 ley, and little croiitons round it. Serve red 
 currant jelly separately. Probable cost, 2s. 
 
 RABBIT, BOILED. 
 
 This is the usual and one of the most accept- 
 able ways of dressing rabbits. Choose mode- 
 rately young rabbits, skin, draw, and wash 
 them. Truss them with the heads skewered to 
 the sides, drop them into boiling water, and let 
 them simmer gently until done enough. Drain 
 them, and serve either with onion, liver, white, 
 or mushroom sauce, or parsley and butter. The 
 first of these is generally preferred. Send boiled 
 bacon to table with the boiled rabbits, or gar- 
 nish the dish with rashers of broiled bacon. 
 The flesh of a boiled rabbit will be rendered more 
 juicy and tender if it is soaked in milk and water 
 for a couple of hours before being boiled. Its 
 flavour, too, will be improved if an onion, a 
 carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, a blade of mace, 
 half a dozen peppercorns, and a little salt are 
 put into the water with it. Time to simmer 
 the rabbits, thirty to forty-five minutes, accord- 
 ing to age and size. A very young rabbit will 
 be done enough in twenty-five minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Sufficient, two 
 rabbits for five or six persons. 
 
 RABBIT, BOILED, AND ONIONS. 
 
 Take one or two rabbits, skin them, and 
 skewer as for boiling; put them into warm 
 water in order to extract all the blood; when 
 they are very white, boil in boiling water and a 
 little salt. They will take from three-quarters 
 to one hour. Make the sauce as follows. Peel 
 a dozen white onions, cut off the tops and tails, 
 then cut them into six pieces each, put them to 
 boil in boiling water and a little salt; when 
 nearly done, drain them on a sieve, put them 
 into a clean towel, squeeze out the water, then 
 chop them very fine; put them into a stewpan 
 with two ounces of butter, let th^m fry to 
 drain the water away; then put half a spoonful 
 of flour, mix well together, and moisten with 
 cream or milk, but cream is preferable; next 
 let this sauce boil down on a sharp fire, put 
 some salt and pepper to it, and make it rather 
 thick. Drain the rabbits, and cover them with 
 this sauce. 
 RABBIT, BOILED, TO CARVE. 
 
 First separate the legs and shoulders; then 
 cut the back across into two parts. This may 
 
RAB 
 
 648 
 
 RAB 
 
 readily be accomplished by inserting the knife 
 in the joint, and raising up the bade with the 
 fork. As in the case of the hare, the back of 
 the rabbit is beet worth eating. 
 
 When serving boiled rabbit, it will always 
 be found a very good plan to send some liver- 
 sauce to the table. 
 
 RABBIT, BONED AND ROASTED. 
 
 After boning the back and thighs (see To 
 Bone), prepare forcemeat, of which nearly 
 double the usual amount will be required, as 
 the legs must be filled to restore the original 
 shape, and the back should be lined with thin 
 slices of bacon. After stuffing, sew up in the 
 usual way, and roast slowly, and for a longer 
 time than is necessary for an unboned rabbit. 
 RABBIT, BOUDINS OF. 
 
 Take the white flesh of a rabbit. Free it 
 from skin and sinew, mince finely, pound iv^U, 
 and make into a delicate forcemeat, by mixing 
 with each pound of meat two ounces of butter, 
 one ounce of fat bacon, an^ a dessert-spoonful 
 of flour. Season the forcemeat with salt, pep- 
 per, and pounded mace, flavour with dressed 
 onions or mushrooms finely minced, and bind it 
 together with one or two yolks of eggs. Beat 
 till it is quite smooth. Spread it on a dish, and 
 form the forcemeat into small sausages. Put 
 these into a, stewpan, cover with boiling stock, 
 and let them simmer gently until the forcemeat 
 is set. Brain them, dish them in a circle, pour 
 over them some nicely-flavoured brown sauce, 
 and serve very hot. If liked, two or three 
 pounded potatoes, or a small portion of panada 
 (see Panada), may be mixed with the forcemeat ; 
 if 80 the flour should be omitted. This is a con- 
 venient way of using the remains of cold cooked . 
 rabbit. Time, about a quarter of an hour to 
 boil the boudins. Probable cost of rabbits, 
 7d. to 9d. per pound. 
 
 RABBIT, BOUDINS OF {k la Reine). 
 
 Prepare in the same manner as croquettes (see 
 E.ABBIT, Croquettes op : M. Tide's way) ; roll 
 the meat into large boudins, sausage shape, dip 
 into egg and bread-crumbs, and fry them. 
 Serve under them some veloute, with a little 
 glaze of game. For croquettes or boudins a la 
 reine, made of fowls, rabbits, or game, if you 
 should have by you some sweetbreads, they will 
 be a great improvement, as they make them 
 more mellow and delicate. 
 
 RABBIT, BROILED (k la Maintenon). 
 
 Cut up a fresh young rabbit into neat joints 
 convenient for serving. Put these into a stew- 
 pan, pour over them as much good stock as will 
 barely cover them, and put with them a bunch 
 of parsley, one or two sticks of Celery, two 
 onions, a blade of mace, a sliced carrot, six or 
 eight peppercorns, and half a dozen mushrooms. 
 Let them simmer gently for half an hour. Take 
 them up, drain them, and let them cool. Cut 
 as many pieces of writing-paper as there are 
 pieces of rabbit, butter these, and lay inside 
 each one a piece of fat bacon. Lay the rabbit 
 on this, and sprinkle over it a little white pep- 
 per and grated nutmeg. Fold the paper round 
 the meat, and broil the pieces of rabbit over a 
 clear fire until the bacon has had time to cook 
 sufliciently. Serve in the papers. Thicken the 
 
 gravy with a little brown thickening, and send 
 it to table in a tureen. Time to broil the rabbit, 
 ten minutes. Probable cost of rabbits, 7d. to 
 9d. ^ per pound. Sufficient for two or three 
 persons. 
 
 RABBIT CAKE (a breakfast, luncheon, or supper 
 dish). 
 Take the white meat from two young rabbits. 
 Put the bones into a saucepan, cover them with 
 cold water, add an onipn, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, and a little pepper and salt, and let 
 these ingredients stew gently until the gravy 
 is strong and pleasantly flavoured. Strain,, 
 thicken with a little flour and butter, stir one 
 or two spoonfuls of cream into the gravy, 
 and let it boil until it is smooth and of the con- 
 sistency of custard. Take the weight of the 
 meat in fat bacon, cut this into small pieces, 
 and melt these in a saucepan over a gentle fire. 
 In two or three minutes put the pieces of rabbit 
 into the pan with them, accompanied by a 
 bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, 
 and a little pepper, and stir all with a wooden 
 spoon until the meat is sufficiently cooked. 
 Tiirn the contents of the saucepan into a mortar 
 with half the quantity of panada (see Panada), 
 pound all together to a smooth paste, and rub 
 this through a hair sieve. Moisten the force- 
 meat with a small quantity of the sauce made 
 from the bones, and bind it tM;ether with the 
 yolks of two or three eggs. Taste the force- 
 meat, to ascertain whether or not it is pleasantly 
 flavoured, and, if further seasoning is required, 
 pound the mixture again after it is added. A 
 few mushrooms or truffles cut small may be 
 added if liked. Butter two round moulds of 
 different sizes, and press the forcemeat into 
 these. Cover them, put them into a large pan 
 containing boiling water three or four inches 
 deep, and keep this boiling until the forcemeat 
 is sufficiently cooked. Let it get cold. When 
 wanted, turn the larger cake upon a dish, put 
 the smaller cake on the top of it, and place a 
 ring of clear aspic jelly on the top of all. Garnish 
 the dish with aspic jelly cut into dice, and, if 
 liked, place a border of rice round the cake. 
 When prettily ornamented it is ready for serv- 
 ing. Time to boil the cakes, half an hour to an 
 hour and a quarter, according to size. Prob- 
 able cost of rabbits, 7d. to 9d. per pound. 
 Sufficient for eight or nine persons. 
 
 RABBIT, CIVET OF. 
 
 Wash, dry, and cut up a moderate-sized rabbit 
 into neat pieces. Cut up also a quarter of a 
 pound of bacon into neat rashers. Fry the 
 bacon gently, take it up, and fry the rabbit in 
 the same fat. Take up the rabbit, put back the 
 bacon, and add an onion, a shallot, a small 
 carrot, a small turnip, a bunch of parsley, a 
 sprig of thyme, and a bay-leaf. Turn all over 
 in the fat for two or three minutes, put back 
 the pieces of rabbit, and add a dozen button 
 mushrooms and a pint of stock. Season with 
 pepper and salt, and put with it a table-spoonful 
 of flour mixed smoothly with water. Stir till 
 it boils, and simmer for half an hour, or till 
 the rabbit is tender. Add a glass of claret and 
 a lump of sugar. Put the pieces of rabbit on 
 a dish, pour the sauce over, and serve. Prob- 
 able cost, 2s. 6d. 
 
RAB 
 
 649 
 
 RAB 
 
 RABBIT, COLD, TO DRESS. 
 
 Joint the meat, beat up an egg or two with 
 a little grated nutmeg, pepper, and salt, some 
 
 tarsley minced fine, and some bread-crumbs; 
 ip the meat .into the batter, sprinkle with 
 crumbs, have ready some sweet beef-dripping 
 hot in a pan, and fry the meat to a light brown ; 
 thicken a little gravy with flour, put a large 
 spoonful of ketchup to it, lay the fry in a hot 
 dish, pour the gravy round it, not over it, and 
 serve hot; garnish with lemon and toast. 
 
 RABBIT, CROQUETTES OF. 
 
 Pick the meat from the remains of roast 
 rabbit, and free it from skin and sinew. Mince 
 finely, adding to it a third of its weight in lean 
 ham, and season with pepper, salt, and grated 
 nutmeg. Put the mixture into a stewpan With 
 a slice of fresh butter and one or two table- 
 spoonfuls of thick cream or white sauce, and 
 stir over a gentle fire for five or six minutes. 
 Taste if it be nicely seasoned, and spread it on 
 a dish to cool. If liked, one or two mushrooms 
 or truffles can be added to the forcemeat. 
 Divide the preparation into portions of an equal 
 size, mould these into the shape of corks or 
 balls, brush over with oil, roll them in egg and 
 bread-crumbs, and fry in hot fat till they are 
 crisp and lightly browned. Drain them, 
 sprinkle a little salt over them, pile them on 
 a napkin, and garnish with parsley. If liked, 
 tomato or piqtiant sauce can be sent to table 
 in a. tureen. Time to fry, five to seven minutes. 
 
 RABBIT, CROQUETTES (M. Ude's way). 
 
 Cut the meat of young roasted rabbits into 
 dice, which throw into some bechamel boiled 
 down, adding a little glaze of game. Let this 
 cool, then roll it into whatever shape you please, 
 either into balls, or into the shape of a cork or 
 pear. Fry the croquettes and send up like other 
 croquettes; garnish with fried parsley in the 
 centre of the dish. It is necessary to observe 
 respecting croquettes, or any other articles made 
 use of in cookery, that the less you handle them 
 the better. Put the preparation of the cro- 
 quettes in a flat long dish; level it with the 
 knife till you have it the thickness required : 
 mark with the knife the number of croquettes 
 you intend to make. Then take them off the 
 dish, roll them in your hand as little as possible, 
 put them in the crumbs of bread, roll them 
 again in the omelet (eggs beaten with a little 
 salt), and make them of equal sizes ; place them 
 in a cover of a stewpan till such time as you 
 wish to fry them, and serve very hot. 
 
 RABBIT, CURRIED. 
 
 Take two fresh young rabbits and half a 
 pound of streaky bacon. Cut the bacon into 
 small squares, and divide the rabbit into pieces 
 convenient for serving. Fry the bacon in two 
 ounces of butter. As the pieces of bacon brown 
 take them out and lay them on a separate dish ; 
 put in the pieces of rabbit, brown them also, 
 and lift them, out ; then fry in the fat three or 
 four sliced onions and two sour apples finely 
 minced. When these are soft, rub them 
 patiently through a sieve, and mix the pulp 
 very smoothly with a dessert-spoonful of curry 
 paste, a dessert-spoonful of curry powder, half 
 a tea-spoonful of flour, and a pint of stock, or, 
 failing this, a pint of water and half a 
 
 tea-spoonful of Bovril. Put the gravy 
 into a stewpan with the rabbit and bacon, 
 and let all simmer very gently together until 
 the rabbit is sufficiently cooked, which it will 
 be when the flesh leaves the bone easily. Pile 
 the rabbit on a dish, pour the gravy over, and 
 serve with rice, boiled as for curry, on a separate 
 dish. The flavour of this dish, which is a com- 
 mon one and a general favourite, may be varied 
 in many ways. A little celery or a few mush- 
 rooms may be simmered with the gravy, or a 
 clove of garlic may be added when the flavour- 
 ing is liked, or a little fresh cocoa-nut may be 
 rasped and stewed with it, or a, cupful of milk 
 or cream may be added to the sauce. If the 
 apples are not at hand the juice of a lemon may 
 be substituted for them. Time to stew the 
 rabbit in the curry sauce, two hours. Probable 
 cost, 2s. 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 RABBIT CURRY. 
 
 (iSee Fowl, Teal, ob Rabbit Cubby.) 
 
 RABBIT CUTLETS. 
 
 Boil a rabbit for half an hour; take all the 
 meat off the bones and mince it very finely with 
 an ounce of bread-crumbs, a little chopped 
 onion, an ounce of minced bacon or ham, and 
 pepper and salt to taste. Make the mixture into 
 the form of cutlets, egg and bread-crumb them, 
 and fry in hot fat until brown. Lay them in a 
 hot dish on a bed of parsley, and send brown 
 gravy to table with them in a tureen. Probable 
 cost, 2s. to 28. 6d. 
 
 RABBIT EN PAPILLOTES. 
 
 Take some young and tender rabbits, cut 
 them into joints, and let them marinade some 
 hours in parsley, mushrooms, chives, and a clove 
 of garlic, all chopped fine, together with pepper, 
 salt, and oil. Cover each piece of rabbit with 
 some of this seasoning and a slice of bacon cut 
 very thin ; wrap each separately in well-buttered 
 white paper; broil over a gentle fire, and serve 
 in the paper as hot as possible. Probable cost, 
 rabbits, 7d. to 9d. per pound. 
 RABBIT, FILLET OF. 
 
 Bake a rabbit for one hour, baste frequently ; 
 then cut it into neat joints, and put them into 
 a stewpan with two dessert-spoonfuls of thick- 
 ened brown gravy, half an ounce of butter, a 
 small lump of sugar, a tea-spoonful of chopped 
 parsley, two table-spoonfuls of mushroom 
 ketchup, and pepper and salt to taste. Put in 
 all the gravy from the pan the rabbit was baked 
 in, and simmer for five minutes. Arrange in a 
 pyramid on a hot dish, and pour the sauce over. 
 Probable cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. 
 
 RABBIT, FRICANDEAU OF. 
 
 Take the fleshy portion of a large fat rabbit 
 — that is, the hind-quarters and the loins cut 
 offi close to the shoulder-blades. Lard the flesh 
 evenly and closely, and lay it in a deep baking- 
 dish. Pour upon it as much nicely-flavoured 
 stock as will cover it, fasten a piece of buttered 
 paper, over the dish, and bake the rabbit in a 
 moderate oven until it is quite tender, being 
 careful to baste it frequently, and to add a 
 little more stock if required. Lift the rabbit 
 out of the gravy, and keep it hot. Boil quickly 
 till it begins to thicken the liquor in which the 
 meat was baked. Have ready a tea-cupful of 
 rich tomato sauce. Spread this on a hot dish. 
 
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 650 
 
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 Lay the rabbit upon it, pass a red-hot shovel 
 over the larding, to make it crisp, and pour the 
 gravy over all. Serve very hot. Time to bake 
 the fricandeau, two' hours. Probable cost, 
 38. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 RABBIT, FRICASSEED. 
 
 Cut a young rabbit into neat joints, lay these 
 in a stewpan, and cover with good stock. Let the 
 liquid boil, then put with it three onions, three 
 carrots, three turnips, and three sticks of celery, 
 all sliced; add a bunch of parsley, a sprig of 
 thyme, a blade of mace, a salt-spoonful of grated 
 nutmeg, and a small piece of sugar, and stew 
 all gently together until the vegetables are quite 
 soft. Lift the vegetables out, and rub them 
 through a sieve with the back of a wooden spoon. 
 Stir the puree over the fire with a table-spoonful 
 of the gravy for two or three minutes to make 
 it quite hot. Put the pieces of rabbit on a 
 dish, cover with the puree, and pour the sauce 
 over all. Serve very hot. Time, one hour. 
 Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 RABBIT, FRICASSEED, BROWN. 
 
 Skin, empty, and clean a rabbit, preserving 
 the liver and heart. Wash it, and afterwards 
 dry it well in a soft cloth, and cut it into neat 
 joints convenient for serving. If it is intended 
 to make use of the head, split it open, and take 
 out the eyes. Dissolve c slice of butter and 
 a slice of lard in a sauc epa n, and fry the pieces 
 of rabbit in the fat. When they are nicely 
 browned, take them out, and lay them aside. 
 Mince three onions finely, fry them until brown, 
 and put them with the rabbit. Stir a dessert- 
 spoonful of flour into the fat, and beat it with 
 the back of a wooden spoon until it is quite 
 smooth, and of a bright brown colour. Moisten 
 grradually with as much stock or water as is 
 required to make the gravy of the consistency 
 of thick cream, and add to it a bunch of parsley, 
 a sprig of thyme, two bay-leaves, a little salt 
 and pepper, and a clove of garlic, if this is liked. 
 Put m the pieces of rabbit, and let all simmer ■ 
 gently together until the rabbit is sufficiently 
 cooked. Just before the fricassee is served, 
 put into it a glassful of claret or port. Time, 
 one hour. Probable cost, 3b. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. 
 
 RABBIT, FRICASSEED, WHITE. 
 
 Skin, empty, and wash a nice young rabbit, 
 and afterwards dry it well in a soft cloth. Drain 
 it, and cut it into neat joints convenient for 
 serving. Put these into a stewpan, pour over 
 them as much white stock or water as will barely 
 cover them, and add two onions, a bunch of 
 sweet herbs, half a blade of mace, the peel of 
 half a lemon, and a little salt. Simmer all 
 gently together for three-quarters of an hour, 
 lift out the pieces of rabbit, and put them aside. 
 Mix a dessert-spoonful of flour very smoothly 
 with a tea-cupful of milk or cream, add a tea- 
 cupful of the gravy, and put the liquor into a 
 clean saucepan with a slice of butter rolled in 
 flour. Stir it until it boils, then let it simmer 
 gently until it is so thick that it will coat the 
 spoon. Put the pieces of rabbit into this sauce, 
 and let them get quite hot. Add pepper and 
 salt if required, and at the last moment stir the 
 juice of a lemon into the sauce. Arrange the 
 
 pieces of rabbit on a hot dish, pour the sauce 
 over, and garnish with cut lemon. This fri- 
 cassee will be very much improved if a dozen or 
 more blanched mushrooms are simmered with 
 the gravy ten minutes before it is taken from 
 the fire. Time, one hour. Probable cost, 3s. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 RABBIT, FRICASSEED, WHITE (another and a 
 superior way). 
 Prepare a rabbit as in the last recipe. Dis- 
 solve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, sprinkle 
 a little salt and pepper over the pieces of rabbit, 
 
 Sut them into the saucepan, and with them a 
 ozen button onions and half a pint of blanched 
 mushrooms. Let all simmer gently in the 
 butter for three or four minutes, shaking the 
 saucepan frequently, in order to keep the pieces 
 of rabbit from acquiring any colour. Dredge 
 two ounces of flour over them, pour on them 
 half a pint of stock or water, and add a glassful 
 of sherry or Madeira, if liked. Let the fricassee 
 boil, then draw it to the side of the fire, and 
 let it simmer gently for half an hour, or longer 
 if the rabbit is large. Carefully remove the 
 scum and the fat as they rise to the surface. 
 Season the gravy with a little salt and pepper, 
 if required, and add a little grated nutmeg, a 
 pinch of cayenne, and a lump of sugar the size 
 of a marble. Beat the yolks of two eggs with 
 a quarter of a pint of cream, take the fricassee 
 from the fire for one minute, then stir a small 
 portion of the gravy into the cream, and after- 
 wards mix this with the rest of the sauce. Stir 
 over the fire till it is quite hot, but on no ac- 
 count allow it to boil after the eggs are added. 
 At the last moment stir in a table-spoonful of 
 lemon-juice. Arrange the pieces of rabbit on a 
 hot dish, place the mushrooms and onions round 
 them, and pour the sauce over all. Garnish with 
 cut lemon. Serve very hot. Time, one hour or 
 more. Probable cost, 4b. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. 
 
 RABBIT, FRIED. 
 
 Prepare the rabbit as in the preceding recipe. 
 Put three table-spoonfuls of Lucca oil into a 
 saucepan with an ounce of butter, and a little 
 pepper, salt, and powdered spice. Let the 
 butter melt, and put in the pieces of rabbit, 
 place the saucepan upon a brisk fire, and stir 
 its contents frequently till they are sufficiently 
 cooked. Lift them out, stir an ounce of flour 
 into the hot fat, and beat out with the back of 
 a wooden spoon any lumps that there may be. 
 Moisten this with half a pint of nicely-flavoured 
 stock and a glassful of sherry, let it boil for 
 five minutes, and strain it. Put it back into 
 the saucepan with the rabbit, a shallot finely 
 minced, and a table-spoonful of chopped parsley. 
 When the sauce is on the point of boiling, lift 
 out the pieces of rabbit, arrange them neatly 
 on a dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve 
 very hot. Time, twenty minutes to fry the 
 rabbit. Probable cost, 2s. 3d., exclusive of the 
 wine. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 RABBIT, FRIED (another way). 
 
 Prepare the rabbit as before, and cut it up 
 into pieces not larger than a hen's egg. Dip 
 these into beaten egg, and afterwards into 
 nicely-seasoned bread-crumbs, and fry in hot fat 
 till they are brightly browned. Pile them on. 
 
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 651 
 
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 a hot dish, pour the gravy round them, and 
 serve very. hot. The gravy may be prepared as 
 follows. Wash the liver of the rabbit, and boil 
 it for five minutes, let it get cold, and mince it 
 finely. Simmer an inch or two of lemon-rind 
 in a quarter of a pint of gravy till it is pleas- 
 antly flavoured. Strain it, and thicken with 
 half a tea-spoonful of thickening, or, failing 
 this, with a small lump of butter rolled in flour. 
 When the sauce is ot the proper consistency, 
 stir in the liver and two table-spoonfuls of 
 cream. Let it boil for one minute, and it will 
 be ready for use. If liked, a tea-spoonful of 
 lemon-juice may be added just before it is 
 poured round the rabbit, or the cream may be 
 omitted, and a table-spoonful of mushroom 
 ketchup used instead of it. Time, a quarter of 
 an hour to fry the rabbit. Probable cost, 
 2s. 3d. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 RABBIT, GALANTINE OF (a breakfast, luncheon, 
 or supper dish). 
 Take two plump young rabbits, cut off the 
 heads, entirely remove the bones from both 
 animals, and fasten slices of fat bacon over one, 
 to cover the outei>jor skin side of it. Mince the 
 flesh of the other rabbit finely, and with it an 
 equal quantity of fat bacon, and a little pepper 
 and powdered mace. No salt will be required, as 
 it is probable that the bacon will be sufficiently 
 salted. Lay the boned rabbit flat on a table, 
 spread half the forcemeat upon it, arrange on 
 this some strips of ham, tongue, and bacon, to- 
 gether with a truffie or two or a few mushrooms 
 chopped small, if these are at hand, and spread 
 another lay of forcemeat over all. ^ew up the 
 rabbit neatly, as nearly as possible in its 
 original form, fasten it securely that the force- 
 meat, etc., may not escape, and tie it in a white 
 cloth. Lay two or three slices of bacon at the 
 bottom of a saucepan, place the rolled meat 
 upon these, and add the heads and bones of the 
 rabbit and any other bones there may be handy, 
 together with two carrots, a large onion stuck 
 with two cloves, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of 
 thyme, a bay-leaf, and a Utile pepper and salt. 
 Pour over these ingredients as much good stock 
 as will barely cover them, and simmer all very 
 gently together, carefully removing the scum 
 as it rises, until the galantine is done enough, 
 that is, until it can be easily pierced with a 
 skewer. Let the galantine get cold in the 
 liquor in which it was stewed, then lift it out. 
 Strain the liquor, boil it down until it is so far 
 reduced that it will form a jelly when cold, and 
 clarify with white of egg. Pour this jelly upon 
 plates, that it may set firm, brushing one or 
 two coats of it over the rabbit to serve as 
 glaze. Dish the galantine on a white napkin, 
 and garnish with the savoury jelly, cut into 
 dice, cubes, stars, etc. A galantine is always 
 served cold. Time to simmer, three or four 
 hours. Probable cost of rabbits, 7d. to 9d. per 
 pound. 
 
 RABBITS, GIBLOTTES OF. 
 
 Take two young rabbits to make a giblotte ; 
 but, observe, they must be both alike as to 
 age; if you put a young one with an old 
 one, the young one will be done to rags, while 
 the other one will be scarcely done at all. Skin 
 them, and cut them into pieces. Have ready 
 
 some pieces of breast of bacon cut into the shape 
 of small corks; these are to be blanched so 
 that they may not be briny. Pry them in the 
 stewpan with a little butter to give them a 
 light brown colour. Take the bacon out of the 
 stewpan, and put the pieces of rabbit into it: 
 when cooked firm, take them out also; throw 
 a good handful of flour into the butter in the 
 stewpan, let it get a little brown ; next moisten 
 with some veal grayy. Let the sauce boil a 
 little, to see whether it is not too thick; if so, 
 you will never be able to skim off the fat, and 
 accordingly it will never be of a good colour. 
 When sufficiently stewed, put in the rabbits, 
 bacon, a bunch of parsley and green onions, 
 thyme, bay-leaf, clove, etc. etc. ; and when the 
 sauce has boiled for an hour, skim it well, and 
 put the meat into another clean stewpan, and 
 drain the sauce through a tamis ; then take some 
 button mushrooms and some small onions, and 
 fry them white in butter; let them boil for a 
 quarter of an hour in the sauce. When you are 
 going to send up to table, first dish the pieces 
 of rabbit, next the small white onions, and then 
 put the bacon and the mushrooms over. Take 
 off the fat and scum, otherwise there can be no 
 good cookery; and cover the whole with the 
 sauce when reduced. 
 RABBIT, HASHED. 
 
 Take the remains of a boiled rabbit, and 
 about a fourth of their weight in cooked bacon 
 or pickled pork, together with any sauce that 
 may have been served with the rabbit. Slice 
 both of the meats, and heat them in the sauce. 
 Serve on a hot dish with a border of mashed 
 potatoes. Hard-boiled eggs may be used as a 
 garnish, or fried forcemeat balls. 
 
 RABBIT, HOW TO CHOOSE A. 
 
 When purchasing a rabbit see that the animal 
 is fresh and young. If fresh the body will be 
 stiff,, the flesh white and dry in appearance, and 
 of a sweet smell. If stale, the flesh will be 
 slimy and blue, with a tainted odour. If young 
 the claws and the coat will be smooth,' the nose 
 sharp pointed, and the ears tender and easily 
 torn ; if old the wool will be mixed with grey 
 hairs, and the claws long and rough. Rabbits 
 ought not to be kept more than a day Or two 
 after they are killed. In order to distinguish 
 wild rabbits from tame ones examine the paws 
 and the tail. Wild rabbits have hair on their 
 paws, and the under part of the tail is of a 
 reddish colour. 
 RABBIT, JUGGED. 
 
 Melt one ounce of butter or good drip- 
 ping. Wash a rabbit, cut it into small 
 neat joints, and slice two onions; fry both to- 
 gether for six or seven minutes, then put the 
 rabbit and onions in a jar. Add a quarter of a 
 pint of claret, a pint of stock, twelve pepper- 
 corns, and half a tea-spoonful of salt; tie the 
 jar down tightly, and bake for two hours. Strain 
 off the gravy into a saucepan, mix a dessert- 
 spoonful of flour with a table-spoonful of >cold 
 stock or water, add it to the gravy with a tea- 
 spoonful of red currant jelly, and stir over the 
 fire for three or four minutes until the whole 
 thickens. Arrange the pieces of rabbit neatly 
 on a hot dish, pour some of the gravy over them. 
 Have ready some forcemeat balls very hot. 
 
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 652 
 
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 arrange them round the edge of the dish, and 
 serve immediately, with red-currant jelly as ac- 
 companiment, and the remainder of the gravy 
 in a sauce-boat. Probable cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. 
 RABBIT KLOSSE. 
 
 Mince finely the white meat of a cold cooked 
 rabbit. Soak an equal quantity of bread in 
 cold milk, squeeze it dry, and mix .with the 
 minced meat. Cut one or two slices of fat bacon 
 into small squares and fry them gently. Add 
 the minced rabbit and bread, and stir in one 
 or two egga. Let the mixture cook a few min- 
 utes. Turn it out on a dish, and when cool add 
 two more eggs. Form it into balls the size of 
 an egg, and be careful to handle them lightly, 
 and to dip the fingers frequently in water while 
 doing so. When wanted drop these gently into 
 boiling water, and boil them until they are set. 
 Lift them out with a skimmer, pile them in the 
 centre of a small dish, and surround them with 
 fried potatoes. Send any piquant sauce or gravy 
 to table with them. Time to boil, about ten 
 minutes. 
 
 RABBIT, LARDED. 
 
 Skin, empty, and wash a fat young rabbit, 
 cut off its head, and divide the body into four 
 equal parts. Lard the fleshy part of each por- 
 tion with thin stripB of fat bacon, fry the 
 quarters in hot fat till they are lightly browned, 
 and lay them aside. Put about a pint and a 
 half of nicely-flavoured and seasoned stock into 
 a saucepan, thicken with a dessert-spoonful of 
 brown thickening, and let it simmer gently until 
 it is smooth and of the consistency of cream. 
 Stir into it a glassful of sherry or Madeira, add 
 the rabbit, and let it remain until it is thor- 
 oughly hot without boiling. Put the meat on 
 a hot dish, pour the gravy over it, and garnish 
 with cut lemon and parsley. Time, half an 
 hour, exclusive of the time required for making 
 the stock. Probable coat, 2s. 6d., without the 
 wine. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 RABBIT, MARBLED (to be eaten cold-suitable for 
 breakfast, luncheon, or supper). 
 Take a couple of fine rabbits; skin, empty, 
 and wash them ; take out the livers and kidneys, 
 and fry them in plenty of hot fat till they are 
 tender and darkly coloured, then lay them 
 aside. Put the rabbits into boiling water, and 
 let them remain in it for five minutes. This is 
 to blanch them. Take them up, drain them, 
 put them into a stewpan, pour over them as 
 much cold water as will cover them, and add an 
 onion stuck with four cloves, a bunch of parsley, 
 a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a little pepper 
 and salt. Let them simmer gently till tender, 
 and carefully skim the broth. Cut off the heads 
 and necks of the rabbits, lift the flesh from the 
 bones in large neat pieces, and lay these aside. 
 Scrape off the remainder of the meat from the 
 bones, take care of it, and put all the bones into 
 a clean saucepan with the rabbit broth and half 
 an ounce of gelatine which has been soaked for 
 an hour in cold water. Put into this liquor a 
 small portion of ham or bacon, and let it sim- 
 mer till done enough, then take it out, and let 
 the gravy simmer till it is reduced to a pint. 
 Strain through a jelly-bag, carefully clear it 
 from fat, and if necessary clarify it with white 
 of egg, and season it well. Mince the scrapings of 
 
 rabbit flesh with an equal quantity of fat bacon, 
 add the weight of the meat in finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs, season the mixture with salt, 
 pepper, nutmeg, and powdered herbs, bind it 
 together with egg, and form it into balls the 
 size of a small nutmeg. Throw these into boil- 
 ing water till they are set — they will take about 
 ten minutes. Dip a deep mould into cold water, 
 pour into this a small portion of the gravy just 
 before it jellies, and let it flow round and round 
 until it begins to set. Arrange the pieces of 
 rabbit in this, together with the ham or bacon 
 .cut into strips, the liver and kidney sliced, the 
 forcemeat balls, and one or two hard-boiled eggs 
 cut into quarters. Be careful not to pack the 
 ingredients closely, but to leave room for the 
 jelly to flow in amongst them, and also in plac- 
 ing the pieces to contrast the colours, that the 
 mould may look pretty when it is turned out. 
 Pour the rest of the jelly over all, and set the 
 mould in a cool place. When wanted, turn it 
 upon a dish, and it is ready for serving. Time, 
 four or five hours. Probable cost of rabbits, 7d. 
 to 9d. per pound. Sufficient for a large dish. 
 
 RABBIT, MARINADED AND BAKED. 
 
 Skin, empty, and wash a fine rabbit, and let it 
 lie for three or four hours in a marinade com- 
 posed of a glaesful of port or claret, a glassful 
 of vinegar, a sliced onion, twenty peppercorns, 
 a bay-leaf, and three pounded cloves. Turn and 
 baste it three or four times. Tie slices of fat 
 bacon across its back, fill it or not with veal 
 forcemeat, lay it in a deep earthen dish, and 
 pour the marinade upon it. Lay some large 
 pieces of dripping upon it, bake in a moderate 
 oven until done enough, and baste three or four 
 times with the marinade. Half an hour before 
 it is done enough pour a quarter of a pint of new 
 milk over it, and baste the rabbit with this. 
 Place it on a hot dish, take out the skewers, 
 squeeze a little lemon-juice over it, and garnish 
 with slices of lemon. Time to bake, three- 
 quarters of an hour to one hour. Probable cost 
 of rabbit, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 RABBIT, MARINADED AND FRIED. 
 
 Cut the rabbit into neat pieces the size of an 
 egg. Lay these in a deep pan with a table- 
 spoonful of oil, a table-spoonful of ravigote or 
 tarragon vinegar, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of 
 thyme, a bay-leaf, and a little pepper and salt. 
 Let the pieces of meat remain for three hours, 
 turning them about at intervals that they may 
 be equally fiavoured. Drain them, roll them in 
 flour, and fry till they are lightly browned. 
 Serve very hot, garnish with fried parsley, and 
 send tomato sauce, piquant sauce, or maitre 
 d'hotel sauce to table with them. Time to fry, 
 ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 2e. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 RABBIT, MATELOTE OF. 
 
 Take a rabbit, cut it up, and fry it in a little 
 butter. Make a roux, which should be thinned 
 with weak soup and a glassful of white wine. 
 'When the liquid boils, put in the pieces of 
 rabbit, together with a little bacon cut into 
 dice, a bunch of mixed herbs, and some mush- 
 rooms. When nearly done enough, brown some 
 button onions in butter, moistening with the 
 sauce from the rabbit. Place the meat in the 
 
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 653 
 
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 centre of the dish, arrange the onions and mush- 
 rooms round it, strain the sauce over, and serve. 
 Probable cost of rabbit, 7d. to 9d. per pound. 
 
 RABBIT, MINCED. 
 
 Take a fat young rabbit, skin, empty, and 
 wash it, and boil it till tender. Lift the flesh , 
 from the bones, mince it, and season with pep- 
 per, salt, grated nutmeg, grated lemon-peel, and 
 a little of the juice. Put it into a saucepan, and 
 stir in with it six ounces of fresh butter and 
 four well-beaten eggs, and continue to stir for a 
 quarter of an hour. Turn it on a hot dish, 
 squeeze the juice of half a lemon over it, gar- 
 nish with toasted sippets, and serve very hot. 
 Time to boil the rabbit, three-quarters of an 
 hour to one hour. Probable cost, rabbits, 7d. to 
 9d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 RABBIT, MINCED (another way). 
 
 Take the meat from the remains of a cold 
 cooked rabbit, free it from skin and sinew, 
 mince finely, and put it aside. Break the bones 
 into small pieces, and put them into a saucepan 
 with half a pound of veal cut into small squares, 
 a slice of lean ham, a large spoonful of bacon- 
 fat or lard, and a little pepper, salt, and grated 
 nutmeg. Move them about over the fire for a 
 minute or two, dredge flour thickly over them, 
 and pour upon them as much milk as will cover 
 them. Let them simmer gently for an hour, 
 stirring them at intervals. Strain the liquor, 
 boil it till it is quite thick, and keep stirring to 
 prevent it burning. Put the minced meat into 
 the sauce, let it get, quite hot without boiling, 
 and serve immediately. Time, an hour and a 
 half. Probable cost, lOd., exclusive of the cold 
 meat. Sufiicient for four or five persons. 
 
 RABBIT, MINCED (M. Ude's recipe). 
 
 " This is a dish to be made of the remains of a 
 former dinner. Take the fillets of roasted rab- 
 bits, pare the sinews; then make a mince, but 
 hold your knife on a slope, that the thin slices 
 may curl like shavings ; put the mince into some 
 reduced veloute or bechamel mixed with some 
 glaze of game; do not forget to pour into the 
 mince a little thick cream to give it a white 
 ■colour and make it more mellow. You may put 
 the mince either in a bordure, a vol-au-vent, a 
 casserole with rice, a turban, a grenade, a 
 gratin, petits pates, petites casserolettes au ris 
 (little casseroles with rice), etc. etc." 
 
 RABBIT, MUSHROOM SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Take a pint of young mushrooms, pick, rub, 
 and wash them, and sprinkle them -with salt to 
 take off the skin. Put them into a saucepan 
 with a little salt, a blade of mace, a little nut- 
 meg, a pint of cream, and a piece of butter 
 rolled in floiir v boil them up, and stir till done, 
 then pour the sauce into the dish with the rab- 
 bit. If you cannot get fresh mushrooms, use 
 pickled ones, and a little mushroom powder with 
 the cream. 
 
 RABBIT PATE. 
 
 Take two young rabbits, bone them, and cut 
 them into pieces. Take half a poUnd of fresh 
 pork and half a pound of veal fat; chop these 
 ingrredients small, and mix with them a laurel- 
 leaf, a shallot, thyme, and some parsley, all 
 
 finely shredded, and add pepper, salt, and a 
 little powdered cloves. Lay the minced rabbits, 
 etc., in a pie-dish lined with slices of fat bacon, 
 pour a wine-glassful of brandy over the whole, 
 and cover the top with slices of bacon. Place 
 the pate in a moderate oven, and let it remain 
 there for a couple of hours. When done enough, 
 serve the pate in a flat dish garnished round the 
 edges with slices of beetroot sprinkled with 
 vinegar, or pickled capsicums can be used in- 
 stead, if liked. 
 RABBIT PAt£ (a la Proven^ale). 
 
 Take two rabbits, cut them into joints without 
 boning them, and lay them in a saucepan with 
 two carrots, two onions, a clove of garlic, a 
 bunch of herbs, and about a pound of the belly 
 of pickled pork. Boil in as little water as 
 possible for half an hour, then take the meat 
 out, drain- it, place the pork at the bottom of 
 a well-buttered pie-dish, and upon it lay the 
 pieces of rabbit. Poiir a glassful of white wine 
 , over the whole, and strew over it some Spanish 
 pimento; have some batter ready, pour it into 
 the dish, and bake the pate in a quick oven for 
 half an hour. Reduce the liquid in which the 
 meat was cooked, and add the juice of a lemon ; 
 when the pate is done, place it in another dish, 
 and serve with the sauce poured round it. 
 
 RABBIT PATTIES. 
 
 Take the white meat from a cold cooked 
 rabbit. Free it from skin and sinew, mince it 
 finely with a small portion of good suet, and 
 put it aside. Bruise the bones, put them into 
 a stewpan with a little salt, pepper, grated nut- 
 meg, and grated lemon-rind, and let them sim- 
 mer until the gravy is pleasantly flavoured. 
 Thicken it vrith a little flour and butter, and 
 stew the mince in this till it is quite hot. Bake 
 the patties in patty-pans, take them out of the 
 oven, and half fill them with the hot mince. 
 Put on the covers, and pile them on a napkin. 
 Time, about an hour to simmer the gravy. 
 Probable cost of patties, 2d. each. Sufficient, 
 a dozen for a dish. 
 
 RABBIT PIE. 
 
 Take two fine wild rabbits, cut them into 
 joints, and lay them in a little lukewarm salted 
 w'ater, so as to cleanse them from all unneces- 
 sary blood. Dry them in a clean cloth, flour 
 them nicely, and season with cayenne and salt ; 
 then arrange these joints neatly in a suitable- 
 sized pie-dish ; parboil the livers, and beat them 
 in a mortar with their weight of fat bacon, a 
 few bearded oysters, sweet herbs, and parsley 
 chopped fine, a dust of flour, and a few 
 bread-crumbs; with an egg make this up into 
 small balls, and distribute these in the dish 
 with some artichoke bottoms cut into dice. 
 With, your rabbit place also one pound of fat 
 pork that has been at least a week in pickle; / 
 cut the pork into small jieces, and judiciously 
 place these with the balls and rabbit. Grate over 
 all half a good-sized nutmeg, and then add half 
 a pint of port wine and the same quantity of 
 water. Cover with a tolerably thick good crust, 
 and bake an hour and a half or more in a 
 moderate oven; when nearly done, place over 
 the crust, to prevent its becoming too brown, a 
 buttered paper. If time will permit, the rabbits 
 will be much better relished if the nutmeg and 
 
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 654 
 
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 wine are placed over them the night before they 
 are wanted, so as to allow the meat to absorb 
 the flavour. A small piece of tender rump steak 
 placed at the bottom of the dish is also an im- 
 provement to the gravy, though a good cook 
 should never be without a stock-pot, so as to 
 have gravy at command when needed, either to 
 add to a pie when the baking is finished or for 
 serving with poultry or game. 
 
 RABBIT PIE (another way). 
 
 Put into the bottom of a baking-dish a few 
 slices of ham or beef; cut the rabbit into as 
 many bits as you like; season each bit with 
 salt, pepper, pounded spices, etc. ; put them in 
 a dish as close as possible, add a glassful of 
 broth if you have any; if pot, a wine-glassful 
 of water and a drop of white wine; cover this 
 dish quite close with a good crust, beat an egg, 
 in a gallipot, and with a paste-brush rub it twice 
 over the paste, and bake in a hot oven for an 
 hour and a half, when the pie will be ready 
 for serving. Whether hot or cold, this dish is 
 excellent. Remember that if the rabbit pie is 
 to be eaten cold it must be much more highly 
 seasoned than when made to be eaten hot. 
 
 RABBIT PIE, PLAIN. 
 
 Be careful to choose a young rabbit. Skin, 
 empty, and wash it, and cut it into ten or twelve 
 neat joints. If the head is to be put into the 
 pie, split it into halves, and lay these with the 
 other pieces in lukewarm water for half an hour. 
 Brain and dry them, put them into a large pie- 
 dish, the inferior joints at the bottom, and put 
 with them three or four slices of fat bacon. Mix 
 a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of 
 white pepper, and half a blade of powdered 
 mace, and sprinkle this powder over the rabbit; 
 a little minced onion may be added, if liked. 
 Barely cover the rabbit with cold stock or water. 
 Lay a plate on the dish, and bake the contents in 
 a moderate oven till they are three-parts cooked. 
 Let the dish cool, cover it with pastry in the 
 usual way, ornament it prettily, and make a 
 hole in the centre, brusl^the crust over with egg, 
 and bake the pie in a well-heated oven till the 
 pastry is done enough. Serve it either hot or 
 cold. Some cooks slice potatoes thinly, aiid lay 
 them in the bottom of the dish before they put 
 in the rabbit. Time, three-quarters of an hour 
 to bake the pie. Probable cost, 2s. Sd. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 
 RABBIT PIE, PLAIN (another way). 
 
 Prepare the rabbit as before, cut it into neat 
 joints, and lay these in water for an hour, dry 
 them well, and season each one with salt and 
 pepper. Cut three-quarters of a pound of bacon 
 into neat squares. Lay the inferior joints of the 
 rabbit at the bottom of a deep dish, put upon 
 them two or three pieces of bacon, and three 
 parts fill the dish with alternate layers of rabbit 
 and bacon. Dredge a little flour, and sprinkle 
 a little chopped parsley and a little minced 
 shallot lightly over each layer, and put two bay- 
 leaves on the top. Pour in half a pint of stock 
 or water, cover the pie with pastry in the usual 
 way, brush over with egg, make a hole in the 
 top, and bake in a welJleated oven. Turn it 
 about, that it may bake equally, and, to keep it 
 from burning, place upon it, if necessary, a 
 piece of paper. When done enough, pour into 
 
 it one or two spoonfuls of nicely-flavoured gravy, 
 and serve hot or cold. Time to bake, an hour 
 and a half. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Suiiicient 
 for five or six persons. 
 
 RABBIT PIE, RAISED. 
 
 Take the meat from a fine young rabbit, cut 
 it into small neat pieces, and season nicely with 
 salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Cut half a 
 pound of fat bacon into dice. Make a raised 
 crust (see Paste pob Baisbd Pies) and form 
 the pie into any shape that may be wished, 
 being careful that the sides are stiff and firm. 
 Put in the pieces of meat and bacon, pack 
 them tightly, and intersperse amongst them the 
 yolks of three or four hard-boiled eggs cut into 
 quarters lengthwise. Pour a little tomato sauce 
 over all, or failing this a spoonful or two of 
 good gravy, which will be a jelly when cold. 
 Cover the pie with pastry, brush it over with 
 egg, and ornament prettily. Bake in a mode- 
 rate oven until it is done enough, that is until' 
 a skewer will pierce to the bottom of it easily. 
 Serve either hot or cold. Time to bake, about 
 an hour and a half. Probable cost, 3s. 
 Suflicient for a breakfast or luncheon dish. 
 
 RABBIT PIE, SUPERIOR. 
 
 Cut a young rabbit into neat joints, and lay 
 these in lukewarm water for half an hour, then 
 drain and dry them. Make a quarter of a pound, 
 of veal forcemeat into small balls the size of a 
 nutmeg, and lay them aside till wanted. If 
 liked the livers of the rabbits may be boiled, 
 minced, and mixed with the forcemeat. Boil 
 three eggs hard, and cut them into quarters 
 lengthwise. Cut half a pound of streaky bacon 
 into strips, and three-quarters of a pound of lean 
 veal into neat pieces an inch square. Make a 
 savoury powder with the eighth part of a nut- 
 meg grated, the thin rind of half a lemon grated 
 or minced very finely, a pinch of cayenne, a 
 tea-spoonful of salt, and a tea-spoonful of pep- 
 per. Line the edges of a pie-dish with good 
 pufE-paste. Put the veal into the pie, then the 
 rabbit, and lastly the bacon, intersperse the con- 
 tents of the pie with the forcemeat balls and the 
 hard-boiled eggs, and season each layer, as it is 
 placed in the dish, with the savoury powder. 
 Moisten the whole with stock or water, but do 
 not entirely cover the meat. Wet the edges of 
 the pastry, lay on the cover, trim and ornament 
 it neatly, brush over with egg, and with a 
 knife make a slit in the centre through which 
 the steam can escape. Bake in a moderate 
 oven, and cover the pie with buttered paper 
 whilst it is baking, for fear the crust should be 
 burnt. Serve either hot or cold. Two or three 
 sliced truffles or half a dozen mushrooms may 
 be added to the pie if liked, and a glassful of 
 port may be mixed with some good gravy, and 
 poured into the pie through the hole in the top. 
 after it is taken out of the oven. If preferred 
 the forcemeat balls instead of being made of 
 veal forcemeat may be made of the livers of the 
 rabbits, parboiled, minced, and beaten in a 
 mortar with six or eight oysters, a spoonful of 
 bread-crumbs, a seasoning of salt, cayenne, and 
 powdered mace, a. pinch of savoury herbs, and 
 the raw yolk of an egg. Time to bake, fully 
 two hours. Probable cost, 4b. 6d. Sufficient 
 for six or eight persons. 
 
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 655 
 
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 RABBIT, PILAU OF. 
 
 Skin, wash, and empty a fat young rabbit, 
 and out it up into ten or twelve {pieces. Rub 
 each one of these with a savoury mixture made 
 by mixing the juice of two large onions with a 
 tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pow- 
 dered ginger, and the juice of a lemon. The 
 onion ]uice may be obtained by bruising the 
 onions, and draining off the liquor. Boil a 
 pound of rice in a quart of stock broth till it is 
 ialf cooked. Whilst it is simmering melt four 
 ounces of good fat or butter in a saucepan, and 
 in this fry the pieces of rabbit till they are 
 lightly browned, and also two sliced onions. 
 Put the meat into a deep earthen jar. Lay the 
 onions upon it, and cover with the rice. Add 
 four cloves, eight peppercorns, a pinch of salt, 
 and one or two inches of thin lemon rind, and 
 pour half a pint of milk over the whole. Tie 
 three or four folds of paper over the top of the 
 jar, and bake in a moderate oven. If required, 
 add a little broth or a little more milk when 
 the rabbit is half done. When the meat is 
 sufficiently cooked, pile the rice on a dish, place 
 the pieces of rabbit upon it, and serve very hot. 
 Time to bake, from an hour and a half to two 
 hours. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. 
 
 RABBIT, PIQUANT. 
 
 Skin, draw, and thoroughly cleanse a fresh 
 young rabbit. Cut it open down all its length, 
 lay it flat upon a table, and skewer it well to 
 keep it in shape. Sprinkle a little pepper and 
 salt over it, and lay it in an oval pan just large 
 enough to hold it, with five or six ounces of 
 bacon fat, dripping, or butter. Fry it till it is 
 three-parts done. Take it up, drain it, and 
 let it cool, brush over with oiled butter, and 
 egg and bread-crumb it twice. A little time 
 before it is wanted, put it into a brisk oven, and 
 bake until it is lightly browned. Serve on a hot 
 dish, and send to table with a little piccalilli, 
 or any other suitable pickle, and a sauce pre- 
 pared as follows. Pound three shallots in a 
 mortar, and with them a tea-spoonful of 
 chopped tarragon, and a little pepper, salt, and 
 unmixed mustard. Two or three ghefrkins, and 
 a little chopped chervil and burnet, may be 
 added if they are at hand. Beat the raw yolk 
 of an egg in a basin, and when it be- 
 gins to thicken stir in very gradually 
 six table-spoonfuls of salad oil. The oil must 
 be added first in drops, afterwards in tea-spoon- 
 fuls, and the sauce must be well beaten between 
 every addition until it is very thick. Stir in 
 by degrees two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, one 
 table-spoonful of chilli vinegar, and the pounded 
 mixture, and beat it again. Keep the sauce in 
 a cool place till wanted, and serve in a tureen. 
 If tarragon-leaves cannot be had, a tea^spoonful 
 of tarragon vinegar may be used. Time, ten 
 minutes to fry a small rabbit; twenty minutes 
 to bake it. Probable cost of rabbit, 7d to 9d. 
 per pound. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 RABBIT, POTTED. 
 
 Empty, skin, and wash two or three young 
 fully-grown rabbits. Take off the legs, and pick 
 all the flesh from the back. Season with salt 
 cayenne, and mace, all finely powdered, and 
 pack the meat clos^v into a potting-jar. Lay 
 
 upon it six ounces of fresh butter, and bake 
 gently until done enough. Let it stand in a 
 cool place for twenty-four hours, turn it into 
 small jars, and cover with clarified butter. The 
 livers can be put in also, if liked. The meat 
 can be served in jars, or small portions 
 can be cut out, laid on a napkin, and garnished 
 with parsley. This is an excellent way of pre- 
 serving rabbits which are not wanted for imme- 
 diate use. Time to bake, one hour and a half. 
 Probable cost of rabbits, 7d. to 9d. per pound. 
 
 RABBIT, POTTED (another way) 
 
 Take oS the legs and shoulders of the rabbits, 
 and also the fleshy parts of the back. Cut ofE 
 the leg-bones at the first joint, and the shoulder- 
 bones at the blades, but without cutting oft' the 
 meat. Take also the livers; season these and 
 the limbs, put plenty of butter over them, and 
 bake gently. Seep them three or four days in 
 the pan after they are done, then stow them 
 lightly into pots, covering them with clarified 
 butter. The remainder of the rabbits may be 
 used in many ways. 
 
 RABBIT PUDDING. 
 
 Skin, empty, and wash a rabbit, and cut it 
 into ten or twelve pieces. Make a little gravy 
 by stewing the head, the liver, and a little bacon 
 rind in stock or water, and season this with salt, 
 pepper, and grated nutmeg. Line a buttered 
 basin with good suet crust. Lay in the pieces 
 of rabbit (first seasoning each one separately 
 with a little pepper, salt, and cayenne), and put 
 with them three or four ounces of bacon cut into 
 strips. Pour over them a tea-cupful of the 
 stock, and be careful to let it cool before using 
 it. Put the cover on- the top, press the edges 
 closely together, and tie the pudding in a floured 
 cloth which has been wrung out of boiling water. 
 Put it into fast-boiling water, and let it boil 
 quickly until done enough. Time to boil, three 
 hours. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. 
 
 RABBIT PUDDING (another way). 
 
 Skin, empty, and wash a rabbit, and cut it 
 into ten or twelve pieces. Put these into a 
 stewpan with a little pepper and salt and half 
 a blade of mace. Pour over them as much boil- 
 ing water as will cover them, and let them 
 simmer very gently for half an hour. Take them 
 up, and put in their place the head and liver 
 of the rabbit, with a little bacon rind if it is 
 at hand, and simmer for an hour, till the gravy 
 is strong and pleasantly flavoured. Strain and 
 skim it, and put it aside to cool. Line the edges 
 of a pie-dish with suet crust. Put in the pieces 
 of rabbit, together with four ounces of fat bacon 
 ctit into narrow strips, pour in a cupful of the 
 cooled gravy, lay on the cover, press the edges 
 closely together, tie the pudding in a floured 
 cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and let it 
 boil quickly until sufficiently done. Some cooks 
 parboil and mince the liver, mix it with the 
 brains, season the mixture rather highly with 
 salt and cayenne, and sprinkle it over the meat 
 in the pudding. Time to boil, two hours. Prob- 
 able cost, 3s. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 RABBIT, PUPTON OF. 
 
 Take enough rich forcemeat, roll it out, and 
 lay it in a buttered tin dish. Cut slices of bacon 
 
RAB 
 
 656 
 
 RAB 
 
 exceedingly thin, and place them over the force- 
 meat. Then take a rabbit, cut it up, season 
 liighly, and lay it in the dish, strewing upon it 
 asparagus tops, mushrooms, oysters, and the 
 yolks of hard-boiled eggs ; over these lay some 
 more slices of bacon, and on the top place a 
 layer of forcemeat. Bake for an hour in a 
 rather slow oven. When ready, turn the pupton 
 of rabbit into another dish, and pour sauce over 
 it if it is to be sent hot to table. It is quite as 
 good eaten cold. 
 
 RABBIT, QUENELLES OF. 
 
 Cut the meat from a rabbit, free it from skin 
 and sinew, scrape it with a knife, pound it, and 
 rub it through a wire sieve. Soak the crumb of 
 two French rolls in lukewarm water, and when 
 it is quite soft squeeze it dry in a cloth. Chop 
 three or four mushrooms till small, and put 
 them in a clean saucepan with a slice of butter, 
 half a tea-spoonful of grated lemon-rind, half 
 1 shallot finely minced, a pinch of powdered 
 thyme, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a 
 little pepper and salt. Let these steam gently 
 for three or four minutes, mix with them the 
 soaked bread, and stir the mixture over the fire 
 till it ceases to adhere to the stewpan and forms 
 a smooth paste. Place the ingredients in a 
 mortar in the following proportions. Six ounces 
 of the pounded rabbit to three ounces of but- 
 ter and four ounces of above panada. Pound all 
 thoroughly for several minutes, and add a table- 
 spoonful of white sauce, two whole eggs, and 
 the yolk of one. Eub the mixture again through 
 a sieve, taste in order to ascertain if it requires 
 further seasoning, and put it on ice or in a cool 
 place. When wanted form the quenelles accord- 
 ing to the directions already given («ce Quen- 
 elles, Moulding or), throw them into boiling 
 water, and poach them till the forcemeat is set. 
 Serve hot with white sauce or mushroom sauce 
 poured round them. Time to poach the quen- 
 elles, about ten minutes. Probable cost of 
 rabbit, 7d. to 9d. per pound. 
 
 RABBIT, QUENELLES OF (another way). 
 
 "These," says M. Ude, "are made like the 
 generality of quenelles; the only difference is 
 that you take the flesh of rabbits instead of any 
 other meat. The legs in general are used for 
 making the quenelles; the fillets will supply 
 another dish, so will the legs occasionally. The 
 bones and the parings are used to make the 
 consomme and sauces. As the legs are tougher 
 than the tender fillets, they should be pounded 
 for a longer time and rubbed through a tamis, 
 on account of the nerves and sinews." 
 
 RABBIT, QUENELLES OF (another way). 
 (See Quenelles of Babbit.) 
 
 RABBIT, RAGOUT OF. 
 
 Dissolve two ounces of butter in a saucepan, 
 and in this fry three moderate-sized onions cut 
 into slices. Lift these out as they brown, mix 
 three tea-spoonfuls of flour smoothly with the 
 butter, and moisten the mixture very gradually 
 with as much stock or water as will make it 
 of the consistency of thick cream. Skin, empty, 
 and wash a young rabbit. Cut it into small neat 
 joints, lay these in the sauce with five or six 
 rashers of bacon, a bay-leaf, a slice of lemon, 
 and a little pepper and salt. Simmer all gently 
 
 together till the rabbit is tender. Lay the 
 pieces on a dish, strain the sauce over them, 
 and serve very hot. A glassful of wine may be 
 added to the sauce or not. Time, from an hour 
 and a half to two hours to simmer the rabbit. 
 Probable cost, 3s., exclusive of wine. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 RABBIT, RAGOUT OF (another way). 
 
 Skin, empty, and wash a plump young rabbit, 
 cut it up into ten or twelve pieces, and lay them 
 in a saucepan with a dozen button mushrooms, 
 half a dozen small onions, a bunch of parsley, a 
 sprig of thyme, and a bay-leaf. Pour over these 
 ingredients as much boiling stock or water as 
 will cover them, and let them simmer very 
 gently until the meat is tender. Lift out the 
 rabbit, skim and strain the sauce, and thicken 
 with a table-spoonful of brown thickening. Sea- 
 son with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, and 
 let it boil till smooth. Add a glassful of sherry 
 or Madeira if liked. Put in the pieces of meat. 
 Let them get thoroughly hot without allowing 
 the gravy to boil, arrange them neatly ih a dish, 
 pour the sauce over them, and serve very hot. 
 Garnish the dish with toasted sippets. Time to 
 simmer the rabbit, from an hour and a half to 
 two hours. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 RABBIT, ROAST. 
 
 Take a plump young rabbit ; skin, empty, and 
 wash it; fill the inside with good veal force- 
 meat, sew it up securely, and truss firmly with 
 the foreliegs back, the hind legs forward, and 
 the head fastened in an upright position with a 
 skewer. The flavour of the rabbit will be im- 
 proved if the inside is lined with fat bacon be- 
 fore the forcemeat is put in, but this process may 
 be omitted. Fasten a slice of fat bacon over the 
 back of the rabbit, put it down to a clear fire, 
 and baste liberally. When it is partially 
 roasted, flour well, and baste again. When done 
 enough, take it up, remove the skewers, and 
 serve on a hot dish with a little gravy poured 
 over it, and the rest in a tureen. Serve fried 
 bacon on a separate dish. 
 
 RABBIT, ROAST, AND CHESTNUTS. 
 
 Take two dozen fine large chestnuts ; slit each 
 one lightly with a penknife, and throw all into 
 a saucepan of cold water. Let them boil for a 
 quarter of an hour, drain, and peel them. Whilst 
 the chestnuts are boiling, skin, wash, and empty 
 a plump young rabbit. Throw the liver into 
 boiling water, let it boil ten minutes, and after- 
 wards mince it finely, and mix with it a tea- 
 spoonful of chopped onion, a tea-spoonful of 
 chopped parsley, four ounces of fat bacon, a 
 little pepper, salt, and pounded mace, and half 
 the boiled chestnuts. Pound these ingredients 
 in a mortar, and when the forcemeat is well 
 mixed put it inside the rabbit, sew up securely, 
 and truss firmly. Tie three or four slices of fat 
 bacon over the animal, put it before a clear 
 fire, baste frequently, and let it remain until 
 done. Remove the skewers, lay the rabbit 
 on a hot dish, pour over it a spoonful or two of 
 the sauce made with the remainder of the chest- 
 nuts, and send the rest to table in a tureen. 
 Garnish with sliced lemon. The sauce may be 
 made as follows. Pound the peeled chestnuts 
 
RAB 
 
 657 
 
 RAB 
 
 till they are quite smooth, and with them an 
 ounce of butter, and a little pepper and salt. 
 Mix half a pint of good brown gravy gradually 
 with the chestnut paste, and stir over the fire 
 till it is quite smooth. Time to roast the rab- 
 bit, three-quarters of an hour to one hour. Prob- 
 able cost of tabbit, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 
 RABBIT, ROAST (Dr. Kitchener's recipe). 
 
 If the fire is clear and sharp, thirty minutes 
 will roast a young and forty a full-grown rab- 
 bit. When yon lay it down, baste it with 
 butter, and dredge it lightly and carefully with 
 flour that you may have it frothy and of a fine 
 light brown. While the rabbit is roasting, boil 
 its liver with some parsley; when tender, chop 
 them together, and put half the mixtvire into 
 some melted butter, reserving the other half for 
 garnish, divided into little hillocks. Cut off the 
 head and lay half on each side of the dish. A 
 fine, well-grown (but young) warren rabbit, kept 
 some time after it has bee^i killed, and roasted 
 with a stuffing in its belly, eats very like a hare, 
 to the nature of which it approaches. It is nice 
 nourishing food when young, but hard and un- 
 wholesome when old. 
 
 RABBIT, ROAST, PLAIN. 
 
 Skin, empty, and wash a plump young rabbit. 
 Truss it firmly, the fore-legs backwards, the 
 back-legs forwards, and the head fixed in an up- 
 right position by nieans of a string passing 
 across the shoulders. Tie one or two rashers of 
 fat bacon over the back, put the rabbit down to 
 a clear fire, and baste it well until done enough. 
 Put it on a hot dish, remove the skewers, garnish 
 with slices of fried bacon, and send to table with 
 a sauce prepared as follows. Cut an ounce of 
 lean ham or bacon into dice. Put these into a 
 stewpan with a small slice of fresh butter, a 
 table-spoonful of chopped carrot, a tea-spoonful 
 of chopped onion, an inch or two of celery, a 
 small sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, half a tea- 
 spoonful of peppercorns, and a pinch of 
 powdered mace. Stir these ingredients with a 
 wooden spoon over a gentle fire until they are 
 well browned. Pour over them a tea-spoonful 
 of ketchup, a table-spoonful of vinegar, and half 
 a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy. Simmer 
 all gently together for ten minutes, add a 
 quarter of a pint of stock, and a glass of sherry, 
 and simmer again until the sauce is pleasantly 
 flavoured. Add a dessert-spoonful of brown 
 thickening, or failing this a table-spoonful of 
 flour mixed smoothly with a little cold water, 
 and a spoonful of sugar browning. Boil a few 
 minutes longer, and serve very hot. Time to 
 roast the rabbit, three-quarters of an hour to 
 one hour; less if the rabbit be small. Probable 
 cost of rabbit, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 RABBIT, ROAST, TO CARVE. 
 
 Proceed in the same way as for hare. (See 
 Eabe, Boast, To Carvb.) 
 
 RABBIT SALAD. 
 
 Cut the flesh of a roasted rabbit into neat 
 slices, and let these lie in a marinade composed 
 of a table-spoonful of vinegar, the same quantity 
 of salad oil, three or four tarragon leaves, or a 
 little tarragon vinegar, a sliced onion, and a 
 
 2o 
 
 little pepper and salt. Turn the meat over, and 
 baste frequently till it is thoroughly impreg- 
 nated with the flavour of the marinade. Wash 
 and dry well a cabbage lettuce. Shred it finely, 
 and spread it at the bottom of a dish. Arrange 
 the pieces of rabbit on this, and intersperse with 
 them the flesh of two anchovies cut into strips, 
 a tea-spoonful of bruised capers, some chervil, 
 pimpernel, and tarragon leaves finely shredded, 
 a little sliced beetroot, and a hard-boiled egg 
 cut small. Place over these ingredients three or 
 four lettuces cut into quarters, and ornament 
 the salad with hard-boiled eggs, beetroot, etc. 
 At the moment of serving the salad, pour over 
 it a quarter of a pint of good mayonnaise sauce, 
 or if preferred send oil, vinegar, and mustard 
 to table separately. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Suf- 
 ficient for flve or six persons. The pieces of rab- 
 bit to lie in the marinade for an hour or two. 
 
 RABBIT SALAD, SIMPLE. 
 
 Take two or three thin slices of stale crumb 
 of bread. Toast them on both sides till brightly 
 browned, let them cool, and divide them into 
 neat squares. Lay on each one of these a slice 
 of cold roast rabbit. Arrange them on a dish 
 alternately, with small salad or a spoonful of 
 washed and dried lettuce finely shredded; 
 Sprinkle over all two table-spoonfuls of boiled 
 onion finely minced, two anchovies cut small, 
 and half a tea-spoonful of shredded parsley. 
 Garnish the dish with parsley and sliced beet- 
 root, and pour mayonnaise sauce over it at the 
 moment of serving. 
 RABBIT, SAUCES FOR. 
 
 Onion sauce, white sauce, white celery sauce, 
 white mushroom sauce, parsley and butter made 
 with milk instead of water, and liver sauce are 
 all suitable sauces for boiled rabbit. For roasted 
 rabbit, brown sauce served with currant jelly, 
 brown mushroom sauce, poivrade sauce, andliver 
 sauce are most usually served. Liver sauce fop 
 boiled rabbits is made as follows. Mix a table- 
 spoonful of flour and a little cold milk to a 
 smooth paste. Stir this into a quarter of a pint 
 of boiling milk, and add a quarter of a pint of 
 boiling water. Let this savice boil gently for 
 five or six minutes, stir it all the time, and add 
 a slice of fresh butter. Mince finely the liver of 
 the rabbit which has been boiled for twenty 
 minutes. Hub it through a wire sieve, and stir 
 it into the sauce. Add pepper and salt and a 
 spoonful or two of cream if liked, pour the sauce 
 into the tureen, stir a small piece of butter into 
 it, and when this is dissolved, serve immediately. 
 To make liver sauce for roast rabbit : — Wash the 
 liver, throw it into boiling water, and let it boil 
 for twenty minutes, mince finely, and rub it 
 smooth with the back of a wooden spoon. Put 
 it into a quarter of a pint of gravy, and add a 
 tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, half a tea- 
 spoonful of Bovril, a little pepper, salt, and 
 grated nutmeg, a pinch of grated lemon-peel, a 
 small pinch of powdered thyme, and a piece of 
 butter the size of a walnut rolled in flour. Stir 
 the sauce over the flre till it boils, and serve 
 very hot. 
 
 RABBIT SAUSAGES. 
 
 Skin, empty, and wash a coujjle of fresh young- 
 rabbits. Cut off the heads, divide the rabbite 
 into joints, and pick the meat from the bones. 
 
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 658 
 
 RAB 
 
 Bruise the latter, and put them with the heads 
 into a saucepan with as much cold water as will 
 barely cover them. Let them simmer gently 
 until the gravy is very strong, shaking the sauce- 
 pan occasionally to keep the bones from burn- 
 ing. Mince the meat finely, and put it aside 
 for a short time. Wash the livers, first care- 
 fully removing the gall-bags, put them in a stew- 
 pan with a slice of fresh butter, or if preferred a 
 spoonful or two of water, and let them simmer 
 gently until sufficiently done. Drain them, cut 
 them up into small pieces, and put them with 
 the minced rabbit. Weigh the meat, and with 
 each three pounds put one pound of fat bacon 
 coarsely chopped, adding an ounce and a half 
 of salt, a quarter of an ounce of white pepper, 
 two cloves finely pounded, and a pinch of 
 powdered mace. Mix these ingredients thor- 
 oughly, and moisten the meat with the gravy 
 strained and seasoned like the rabbits. A 
 quarter of a pint of gravy will be enough for two 
 rabbits, and it should be used while still warm. 
 Fill carefully-prepared skins, and the sausages 
 will be ready for boiling or frying. This pre- 
 paration is very good put into one large skin, 
 boiled gently until done enough, and served 
 cold. 
 
 RABBIT SAUSAGES, MADE FROM COOKED 
 RABBIT. 
 Pick the meat from the remains of boiled or 
 roasted rabbit, and free it from skin and sinew. 
 Mince finely, mix with it a third of its weight of 
 fat bacon coarsely chopped, and add a spoonful 
 or two of onions which have been boiled till 
 tender in strong gravy. Mix the ingredients 
 thoroughly. Season the mixture with pepper, 
 salt, powdered cloves, and grated nutmeg, and 
 bind it together with the yolk of an egg. Fill 
 carefully-prepared skins, and the sausages will 
 be ready for broiling, frying, etc. 
 
 RABBIT, SCALLOPS OF. 
 
 Pick the meat from the remains of boiled or 
 roasted rabbit. Mince it finely, season with 
 salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, and add a little 
 lemon-juice if liked. Dissolve a small slice of 
 butter in a saucepan, and stir the mince in this 
 over a gentle fire till it is quite hot. Butter 
 some scallop-shells, and cover the inside of each 
 shell with a layer of nicely-seasoned bread- 
 crumbs, or mashed potatoes. Put in a large 
 spoonful of the savoury mince, and sprinkle 
 some more bread-crumbs on the surface. Lay 
 three or four little pieces of butter on the top 
 and head, and brown the mince in a hot oven, 
 or before the fire. Arrange the shells on a 
 neatly-folded napkin, and serve very hot. Time, 
 eight or ten minutes to brown the mince. Prob- 
 able cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold meat. Suf- 
 ficient, the contents of one shell for one person. 
 
 RABBIT (RARE-BIT), SCOTCH. 
 
 Take as many slices as will be required of good 
 Stilton, Gloucester, or Cheddar cheese, and if 
 the cheese is not very rich add a little fresh 
 butter or salad-oil. Grate the cheese, and put 
 it into a cheese-toaster with a spoonful of made 
 mustard, a pinch of cayenne, and a small glass- 
 ful of good porter or ale. Stir the mixture until 
 the cheese is dissolved, turn it out on a dish 
 under which is a tin of boiling water, and serve 
 very hot, with hot toast either dry or buttered. 
 
 To prepare this dish properly, a cheese-tor.SLcr 
 
 containing a reservoir for hot water should be 
 
 used. When this is not at hand the cheese may 
 
 be dissolved in a saucepan. Time, a few 
 
 minutes.. 
 
 RABBIT, SMOTHERED WITH ONIONS. 
 
 Skin and empty a rabbit, and remove the eyes. 
 Dry it well, and truss it firmly. Put ten or 
 twelve large onions into a saucepan with'three 
 quarts of water. When this boils, put in the 
 rabbit, and let all simmer gently together until 
 both rabbit and onions are sufficiently done. 
 Take out the onions, mince them, and put them 
 into a clean saucepan with a slice of fresh butter, 
 a table-spoonful of flour, a spoonful of milk, and 
 a tea-spoonful of white pepper. Mix these in- 
 gredients thoroughly over a gentle fire to form a 
 puree. Put the rabbit on a hot dish, and re- 
 move the skewers ; pour the onion puree over it, 
 and serve very hot. Rabbit smothered with 
 onions is sometimes stuffed with veal forcemeat, 
 but this is not common. This dish should 
 always be accompanied with boiled bacon, or 
 boiled pickled pork. Excellent pea soup may 
 be made of the rabbit broth, or if this is not 
 required the rabbit broth will prove a valuable 
 addition to stock. Time to boil the rabbit, 
 three-quarters of an hour to an hour and a 
 quarter, according to the size. Probable cost 
 of rabbits, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Sufficient, one 
 medium-sized rabbit for three or four persons. 
 
 RABBIT SOUP. 
 
 Skin and empty a rabbit ; lay the liver aside. 
 Cut the body into joints, flour the pieces, and 
 fry them lightly; put them in a stewpan with 
 the liver and three pints of good stock made 
 from bones, let them simmer as gently as possi- 
 ble for an hour, or until the rabbit is done 
 enough, carefully removing the scum as it rises. 
 Take out the rabbit, cut off the best of the meat, 
 lay it in a covered dish, and put it in a cool 
 place. Bruise the bones, and put them back 
 into the stock, and with them two onions, a shal- 
 lot, a carrot, a small bunch of parsley, a pinch 
 of thyme, three or four outer sticks of celery, 
 and a little salt and cayenne. Simmer the broth 
 two hours longer. Take out the liver, rub it till 
 smooth with the back of a wooden spoon, 
 moisten with a little of the liquor, and return it 
 to the soup. Just before sending to table add 
 half a glassful of port and a tea-spoonful of 
 mushroom ketchup. Cut the pieces of meat 
 into dice, let them get quite hot without boil- 
 ing, and serve immediately. Time, three hours. 
 Probable cost, lOd. per pint. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. 
 RABBIT SOUP (M. Ude's recipe). 
 
 Take the fillets of four rabbits to make an 
 entree, and with the legs and shoulders make 
 the soup as follows. Put them into warm water 
 to take out the blood; when quite clean put 
 them into a stewpan with a bundle of parsley 
 and a ladleful of good broth; put all this tp 
 simmer over a slow fire; when done through, 
 moisten with some good broth. Season to taste, 
 and let it boil for an hour only : if you let it 
 boil too long the soup will be brown. Next take 
 the meat out of the broth, drain it, and let it 
 cool, then pick all the meat from the bones, 
 and put it into the mortar, with four yolks 
 
RAB 
 
 659 
 
 RAB 
 
 of eggs boiled hard, and the crumb of a 
 roll soaked in a little broth; pound all this 
 very fine; rub it through a tamis, moiaten 
 ■with the broth, and when done add a pint 
 of double cream that has boiled; mix all 
 together, and serve. Take particular notice 
 that this soup must be very white; sometimes 
 you give it with vermicelli, sometimes with pearl 
 barley, sometimes with rice; on all occasions, 
 each of these articles must be done separately in 
 broth, and put into the soup afterwards. If 
 you have abundance of rabbits, you may also 
 use the fillets, as the soup will then be whiter 
 and better. 
 
 RABBIT SOUP, SUPERIOR. 
 
 Skin and empty two rabbits, and let them lie 
 in lukewarm water for an hour. Drain them, 
 and put them into a stewpan with two quarts of 
 white stock made from veal bones. Let them 
 simmer gently until they are quite tender. Lift 
 them out, and pick all the best meat from the 
 bones. Bruise the latter, and put them back 
 into the broth with two carrots, two onions, 
 three or four sticks of celery, a bunch of parsley, 
 a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a blade of mace, a 
 dozen peppercorns, and a little salt. Let all 
 simmer gently for three hours. At the end of 
 that time, strain the liquor, and let it stand to 
 settle, so that it may be poured ofE free from 
 sediment. Meantime mince the meat, and 
 pound it tiU it is perfectly smooth, cover it, and 
 put it aside. When the broth is cold, pour ofl 
 the clear liquor free from sediment, and boil it. 
 Put the pounded meat into a basin, moisten it 
 very gradually with the warm broth, and rub 
 the paste well with the back of a wooden spoon 
 that it may be free from lumps. Add this 
 thickening to the broth, season pleasantly with 
 additional salt and cayenne, and pass it through 
 a sieve. Put it into a clean saucepan, and when 
 it boils stir into it three-quarters of a pint of 
 cream which has been mixed with a table-spoon- 
 ful of good arrowroot. Let the soup boil up 
 again, and serve very hot. Sippets of toast 
 dipped in cream and fried may be served with 
 the soup. Time, about three-quarters of an hour 
 to an hour and a quarter to boil the rabbits; 
 three hours to boil the liquor. Probable cost. 
 Is. 6d. per pint. Sufficient for nine or ten 
 persons, i 
 
 RABBIT SOUP, WHITE. 
 
 A small quantity of good rabbit soup may be 
 made with the inferior parts of the rabbit, that 
 is the head, neck, and shoulders, leaving the 
 best parts, that is the legs and the back, to be 
 stewed, and served as an entree. Divide the 
 rabbit, and soak the part which is to be used for 
 soup in lukewarm water for half an hour. Cut 
 it into small pieces, and put these into a stew- 
 pan with as much stock made from bones and 
 water as will barely cover them. Let them sim- 
 mer gently until the meat is done enough. Take 
 it up, pick it from the bones, and put these back 
 . into the liquor with a carrot, a turnip, an onion, 
 a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a little 
 pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Add a pint 
 and a half of additional stock, and simmer all 
 gently together for two hours. , Strain the soup, 
 and leave it to cool. Mince the meat, and 
 pound it quite smooth. Add to it a slice of 
 
 stale crumb of bread which has been soaked in 
 milk till soft and afterwards squeezed dry. 
 Moisten this paste gfradually with the strained 
 stock, and let it boil for a quarter of an hour. 
 Add a small cupful of cream which has been 
 mixed with a tea-spoonful of ground rice or 
 arrowroot, let it boil up once more, and serve. 
 Some cooks add the yolk of an egg boiled hard 
 to the pounded mince, and stir this into the soup , 
 to enrich it. When this is done the soup must 
 not boil after the egg is added. Time, three to 
 four hours. Probable cost, Is. per pint. Suf- 
 ficient for three or four persons. 
 
 RABBIT, SPANISH WAY OF COOKING. 
 
 A stewpan or earthenware pipkin is taken, 
 having a tightly-fitting cover, and of sufficient 
 size to hold a couple of rabbits when cut up into 
 small pieces; also four moderate-sized Spanish 
 onions in thin slices. A layer of sliced onion 
 is placed on the bottom of the pan; on it a 
 layer of the pieces of rabbit previously seasoned 
 with salt, pepper, and whatever other seasoning 
 may be desired. This is covered with a. second 
 layer of onion, then rabbit, and so on altern- 
 ately, until the whole of the rabbit is used up. 
 A few thin slices of raw bacon or ham are put 
 over the last layer of rabbit, and all the remain- 
 ing pieces of onion are placed on the top. The 
 cover is then put on, and the whole stewed at 
 a moderate heat for two hours. A slack oven, 
 a hot plate, or hot hearth, answers admirably. 
 It is needless to say that, as no water may be 
 added, if the pan is placed over the fire the 
 meat is burned and spoiled. At the end of two 
 hours let it be turned out into a dish, and served 
 up immediately, when it will be found to be a 
 tender, succulent, gravy-teeming dish, far 
 different from the insipid, dry, stringy, boiled 
 rabbit and onion sauce of the ordinary style. 
 English onions answer very well ; and should 
 the gravy (of which a, considerable quantity is 
 produced), require to be slightly thickened, a 
 tea-spoonful of flour should be added to the 
 seasoning which is rubbed over the pieces of 
 rabbit. 
 
 RABBIT, STEWED. 
 
 Cut a plump young rabbit into pieces the size 
 of an egg. Divide half a pound of streaky 
 bacon into square pieces, and fry these with an 
 ounce of butter till they turn yellow. Take 
 them up, and put in their place the pieces of 
 rabbit and two onions sliced, and fry these till 
 they are lightly browned. Take them up, mix 
 an ounce of flour with the fat. and stir it over 
 the fire with the back of a wooden spoon for two 
 minutes. Moisten the paste gradually with 
 three-quarters of a pint of stock or water, and 
 add a bunch of savoury herbs, a little pepper 
 and salt, the rabbit, th? bacon, and the onions, 
 and simmer all ge'htly together in a closely- 
 covered saucepan for twenty minutes. Take 
 out the herbs, pile the pieces of rabbit on a 
 dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve very 
 hot. If liked, a glassful of claret may be added 
 to the sauce. It will bemuch improved, also, 
 if a dozen mushrooms are'boiled in the sauce for 
 the last six or seven minutes. Failing these, 
 a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup may be 
 stirred into it. Time, from an hour and a half 
 to two hours. Probable cost of rabbit, 7d. to 
 
RAB 
 
 G60 
 
 RAB 
 
 9d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 RABBIT, STEWED WHOLE. 
 
 Skin, empty, and wash a rabbit, and soak it 
 in lukewarm water for half an hour. Drain and 
 dry it, and fill it with a forcemeat prepared as 
 follows. Boil the liver for a quarter of an hour. 
 Mince it finely, and mix with it three ounces of 
 finely-shred beef suet, two ounces of grated bread- 
 crumbs, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, half a 
 tea-spoonful of mixed sweet herbs, a little pepper 
 and salt, and a little milk. Sew the rabbit up 
 securely, truss firmly for roasting, and lay three 
 or four slices of fat bacon upon it. Bake in a 
 brisk oven for twenty minutes. Cut two ounces 
 of bacon into dice, and fry these in an ounce 
 of butter with a. carrot and two onions till they 
 are lightly browned. Dredge a table-spoonful 
 of flour over them, and add a pint of stock or 
 water, a dessert-spoonful of vinegar, half a tea- 
 spoonful of mixed mustard, and a little pepper 
 and salt. Put the rabbit and bacon into this 
 sauce, and let them simmer gently until quite 
 tender. Lay the rabbit on a dish, and keep it 
 hot. Rub the vegetables through a sieve, mix 
 the pulp again with the gravy, let it boil up, 
 pour it over the rabbit, and serve very hot. Time 
 to stew the rabbit, an hour and a half. Probable 
 cost of rabbit, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 RABBIT, STUFFED AND STEWED. 
 
 Fill a rabbit with good veal forcemeat, tie 
 three or four rashers of fat bacon over it, truss 
 it firmly, put it down to a clear fire, and baste 
 till it is lightly browned. Take it up, put it in 
 a stewpan, pour the contents of the dripping- 
 liu over it, add as much new milk as will cover 
 it, and a little pepper and salt if required. 
 Cover the saucepan closely, and let the rabbit 
 simmer very gently until it is done enough. 
 Put it on a hot dish, garnish with sliced lemon, 
 pour over it a little of the sauce in which it was 
 stewed, and send the rest to table in a tureen. 
 Time, three-quarters of an hour to one hour. 
 Probable cost of rabbit, 7d. to 9d. per pound. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 RABBIT, TINNED. 
 
 Take the rabbit from the tin, separate the 
 pieces ; cut up six to eight ounces of cooked ham 
 or bacon into little slices, then put alternate 
 layers of all in a jar, with some onion sauce 
 (see SouBiSE Sauce) top and bottom. Cover this, 
 and set it in a saucepan of boiling water, until 
 the rabbit has become heated through, then turn 
 out on a hot dish. Tinned rabbit may also be 
 used for potted meats; and eaten cold with a 
 nice salad is very appetising. It may be eon- 
 verted into curries, fricassees, and similar dishes 
 at little cost and trouble, or it may be re-heated 
 and served with onion sauce like a freshly boiled 
 rabbit. Probable cost. Is. to Is. 6d. per tin. 
 
 RABBIT, TO SKIN. 
 
 Cut the skin round the first joint of the hind- 
 legs. Pull up the skin, a little, and pass a knife 
 along the skin inside the thigh as far as the tail. 
 Afterwards pass the hand under the skin, which 
 will easily separate from the body. Draw it off 
 towards the head. Cut the first joint offl the 
 fore-legs, and pull up the skin. Draw up the 
 
 ears by passing a skewer between the skin and 
 the head, and take off the skin. Cut the nose 
 and lip, and draw the skin right off. Cut a slit 
 just under the body, take out the inside, leav- 
 ing the kidneys. Save the liver and heart, and 
 take out the eyes. Wash the rabbit well inside 
 and out, drain, and wipe it dry. 
 
 RABBIT, TO TRUSS. 
 
 To truss a rabbit for boiling : Draw the fore- 
 legs backwards, and the hind-legs forwards, 
 bring the head round to the side, and fasten it 
 there with a skewer run through it and the 
 body. To truss a rabbit for roasting: Skewer 
 the head firmly between the shoulders. Draw 
 the legs close to the body, and pass a skewer 
 through them. 
 
 RABBIT, TURBAN OF. 
 
 Skin, empty, and wash two or three plump 
 young rabbits. Pass a sharp knife down each 
 side of the backbone, put the point underneath 
 and raise the flesh in neat fillets. Cut off the 
 legs, take out the bones, and divide the flesh in 
 halves lengthwise. Lard all these fillets thickly 
 and evenly with strips of fat bacon. Pick the 
 rest of the meat from the bones, and make it 
 into forcemeat by mincing it finely and mixing 
 with it a third of its weight in fat and lean 
 bacon, a few bread-crumbs, and a little pepper 
 and salt. Bind the mixture together with the 
 yolks of one or ■ two eggs. Make a case of 
 pastry, such as is used tor raised pies. To do 
 this, put a, pound of flour into a bowl, make 
 a hollow in the centre, and stir into this half a 
 pint of boiling water in which has been dis- 
 solved four ounces of lard and a pinch of salt. 
 Work this first with a spoon, and afterwards 
 with the hand, to a smooth stiff paste. Mould 
 it into a circular case, from two to three inches 
 high, brush it over with yolk of egg, fill it with 
 flour, and bake in a well-heated oven till it is 
 firmly set. Let it cool, turn out the flour, and 
 spread the forcemeat all over the inside. Fill 
 the vacant space evenly and compactly with the 
 meat from the legs. Place the fillets from the 
 back over the top to show the larding, and put 
 a slice of ham between each piece to give the 
 dish a pretty appearance. Wrap the whole meat 
 and case together in a thick fold of oiled paper, 
 and bake in a moderate oven. Bemove the 
 paper. Hold a, salamander or red-hot shovel 
 over the top of the turban for three or four 
 minutes to crisp the lardoons, make a little hole 
 in the centre and pour into this a little gravy, 
 place the case on a neatly-folded napkin, gar- 
 nish the dish with parsley, etc., and serve very 
 hot. If liked, a few mushrooms may be stewed 
 in gravy, and laid upon and around the turban. 
 The gravy may be made as follows. Put the 
 bones of the rabbits into a stewpan with as much 
 stock or water as will cover them, and add an 
 onion stuck with two cloves, three or four outer 
 sticks of celery, a dozen peppercorns, and a little 
 salt. Let all simmer gently together till the 
 
 fravj is strong and pleasantly flavoured, 
 train it, and put it back into the saucepan, 
 stir into it a slice of butter rolled in flour, and 
 boil it till it is smooth and thick. Add a 
 quarter of a pint of cream. A spoonful or two 
 of this sauce may be poured into the turban, 
 and the rest sent to table in a tureen. Time. 
 
RAB 
 
 661 
 
 RAC 
 
 to bake, about an hour. Sufficient for a 
 luncheon or supper dish. Probable cost of 
 rabbits, 7d. to 9d. per pound. 
 
 RABBIT (Venetian way). 
 
 Take three or more young rabbits; skin and 
 empty them nicely, then cut them into pieces 
 in the following way. Take off the shoulders, 
 then the head trom the neck, divide the back 
 in four parts ; take off the legs on each side of 
 the saddle, and cut them into two pieces. Have 
 ready half a pottle of mushrooms chopped very 
 fine, with parsley and shallots also chopped 
 fine. Put a small lump of butter into a stew- 
 pan with a little rasped bacon ; put in the sweet 
 herbs with a little salt, pepper, and allspice, 
 and let them stew for a short time on a slow 
 fire. When sufficiently fried put in the rabbits, 
 make them get firm with these sweet herbs till 
 they are sufficiently done. Take the limbs out 
 from the seasoning, lean the stewpan sideways 
 to skim the fat that comes uppermost, put a 
 table-spoonful of sauce tournee, or, if you have 
 none, add to it a small tea-spoonful of flour, 
 moistened with a spoonful or two of consomme, 
 let it boil a few minutes, and make a thickening 
 of the yolks of four eggs; add the juice of a 
 lemon and a little cayenne pepper; stir the 
 sauce well ; if it happens to be too thick, make 
 it thinner with a spoonful of broth; keep it 
 quite hot, throw the pieces into the sauce 
 again, and send up quite hot. This sauce must 
 be rather highly seasoned. 
 
 RABBIT (RARE-BIT), WELSH. 
 
 Take a slice of bread about half an inch thick. 
 Cut off the crust, toast it lightly, and butter it. 
 Cut it in halves, and lay upon each half a slice 
 of good Stilton or Cheshire cheese. Put the 
 toasts in a cheese-tofister before a clear fire, and 
 let them remain until the cheese is equally done. 
 Serve the rabbit, or rare-bit, very hot, with 
 pepper, salt, and made mustard. Some cooks 
 toast the cheese partially in a Dutch oven, before 
 laying it on the toast. Time to toast the cheese, 
 a few minutes. The length of time varies with 
 the quality of the cheese. (See also Eabe-bit, 
 Welsh, and Cheese, Toasted.) 
 
 RABBIT, WITH CUCUMBER. 
 
 Cut the meat from the remains of a cold roast 
 rabbit into neat strips, and lay it aside. Slice 
 a fine cucumber very thinly. Sprinkle a little 
 salt over it, and lay it between two dishes for an 
 hour. Drain the water from it, pour over it a 
 spoonful or two of vinegar, and let it remain for 
 another hour. Pour off the vinegar, and put the 
 slices of cucumber into a saucepan with two 
 ounces of fresh butter, a bunch of parsley,a sprig 
 of thyme, a bay-leaf, and either an onion or a 
 small bunch of chives. Shake the saucepan over 
 the fire till the cucumber is slightly browned. 
 Dredge a little flour over it, pour upon it a 
 quarter of a pint of good gravy or stock made 
 from bones, and let it simmer gently for half 
 an hour. Take out the herbs, season the sauce 
 with pepper and salt, put in the pieces of rabbit, 
 and let them get quite hot. The sauce must 
 not boil after the rabbit is put in. Pile the 
 rabbit on a dish, and pour the sauce over it. 
 Serve very hot. Time, half an hour to simmer 
 the sauce; a few minutes to heat the pieces of 
 rabbit. 
 
 RABBIT, WITH CURRY, 
 
 Take two or three rabbits, and cut into pieces 
 the hind-legs, back, and loins. Put these in a 
 stewpan with butter and six ounces of streaky 
 bacon in large dice. Fry over a moderate fire, 
 but do not let the contents of the pan take too 
 much colour ; salt, sprinkle with flour, and curry 
 powder. Pry the pieces of rabbit for a few 
 seconds longer, take. off the fire, and moisten with 
 stock, put the stewpan again on the fire, and stir 
 the liquid till it is boiling. In five minutes re- 
 move the stewpan to a moderate fire to finish 
 cooking the rabbits. Ten minutes before serving, 
 lay the pieces of rabbit in another stewpan, and 
 pour the sauce over; then add to the stew two 
 large onions cut into dice, seasoned and coloured 
 with butter in a 'frying-pan. Just before serv- 
 ing, thicken the sauce with two yolks of eggs 
 diluted with cream; cook the liaison without 
 permitting the sauce to boil, then send the meat 
 to table, with some rice, boiled Indian fashion, 
 in a separate dish. 
 
 RABBIT, WITH HERBS. 
 
 Skin, empty, and wash a rabbit, and cut it 
 into pieces the size of an egg. If the head is 
 used split it in halves. Fry the pieces in a 
 little hot fat, and turn them about till they are 
 equally and lightly browned. Dredge a table- 
 spoonful of flour over them, and add eight or 
 ten mushrooms chopped small, a shallot finely 
 minced, a table-spoonful of parsley, a table- 
 spoonful of strained lemon-juice, and a little 
 pepper and salt. Pour over them a quarter of 
 a pint of good gravy, and let all simmer gently 
 together till tender. Crush the liver of the 
 rabbit (which has been previously boiled for ten 
 minutes), and mix it with the gravy. A glassful 
 of sherry may be added or not. Serve very hot. 
 Time, altogether, an hour or more. Probable 
 cost of rabbit, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 RABBIT, WITH JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. 
 
 Skin, empty, and wash a plump young rabbit. 
 Cut it into neat joints, lay these in a saucepan, 
 and barely cover them with boiling stock or 
 water. Let the liquor boil, draw the saucepan 
 to the side, ai^d let it simmer gently for twenty 
 minutes. Put into the sauce two pounds of 
 Jerusalem artichokes pared and sliced, and let 
 all atew gently together till the rabbit is tender. 
 Take out the artichokes, mash them, season with 
 salt and cayenne, and add two table-spoonfula 
 of cream or milk. Beat them with a wooden 
 spoon over the fire till they are quite hot. Lay 
 the pieces of rabbit on a dish, pour the mashed 
 artichokes over them, and serve very hot. Time, 
 altogether, three-quarters of an hour. Probable 
 cost of rabbit, 7d. to 9d. pfer pound. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 RACINES {k la CrSme). 
 
 Take some good carrots, scrape and wasl 
 them ; put them on to boil for half an hour, 
 then cut them into long slices, and put them in 
 a stewpan with a piece of fresh butter, a bunch 
 of parsley, green onions, sweet basil, two 
 shallots, and a clove of garlic. Put on the 
 fire, add a pinch of flour, and a little good 
 broth ; let them simmer till the sauce is reduced 
 by about one-fourth. Take out the bunch of 
 herbs, put in the yolks of three eggs beaten up 
 
RAC 
 
 662 
 
 RAD 
 
 with a little cream; thicken the sauce hut do 
 not let it boil again. Just before serving add 
 a little vinegar. 
 
 RACINES (en Menu Droit). 
 
 Cut some onions into slices, brown them in 
 butter with a pinch of flour. When they are 
 almost done enough, moisten with stock, and 
 stew till quite tender. Have some carrots, par- 
 snips, celery, and turnips ready boiled and cut 
 in slices, and add them to the onions; season 
 with salt, whole pepper, and a few drops of 
 vinegar. Make all very hot, and just before 
 serving mix a little mustard into the sauce. 
 
 RADICAL PUDDING. 
 
 Weigh four eggs in the shell. Take their 
 weight in butter, half melt it, and beat it to 
 a cream. Add the eggs well-beaten, two table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar, two-thirds of the weight of 
 the eggs in flour, and a little lemon or almond 
 flavouring. Mix the ingredients thoroughly, 
 pour the mixture into a buttered mould. Lay 
 a, round of buttered paper on the top, tie the 
 mould in a cloth, plunge it into fast-boiling 
 water, and either boil or steam it till done. 
 Turn it out carefully, and serve with pudding 
 sauce. Time to boil, a little more than an hour. 
 Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 RADIQUE (a South American recipe). 
 
 Take one pound of lean veal, slice into 
 pieces, and pass these through a food chopper 
 or mincer, repeating the process so that the 
 veal is thoroughly well minced. Carefully 
 remove any pieces of skin or gristle. Now cook 
 together one table-spoonful of butter and one 
 of flour, add half a cupful of chicken or veal 
 stock, stir till thickened, then set aside. When 
 cool, add the veal, break in three eggs, one at 
 a time, beat well, and add a high seasoning 
 of salt and pepper. Cook till tender a quarter 
 of a pound of macaroni in a pan of salted water. 
 Drop into cold water till ready to use, then 
 cut into quarter-inch rings. Butter a mould, 
 and line the sides and bottom with the rings 
 of macaroni, arranging the cut ends against 
 the mould. Carefully fill the mould with the 
 prepared veal, mince an ounce of lean ham 
 and sprinkle on the top, dust lightly over 
 with coraline pepper, cover with buttered 
 jJaper, and steam for one and a half hours. 
 Serve very hot with good tomato sauce well 
 flavoured with cayenne. Probable cost, 2s. 
 
 RADISH. 
 
 To be eaten in perfection, radishes should be 
 freshly pulled and tender. When preparing 
 them for table wash them thoroughly, and leave 
 about an inch and a half of the stalk. Lay them 
 in cold water for an hour. Serve them in a 
 circle on a plate with the stalk end outwards, 
 and a salt-cellar in the centre. Eadishes are 
 very commonly added to salads. 
 RADISH DRAWING. 
 
 The time of drawing radishes is by no jneans 
 indifferent. They eat in the greatest perfection 
 if pulled in the morning, before the sun has 
 attained any power, and laid in a cool damp 
 place Tintil wanted. The bed should have a 
 plenteous watering the morning before that on 
 which they are drawn, but none afterwards until ^ 
 
 subsequent to the drawing. In November, those 
 wanted for winter must be taken up during dry 
 weather and preserved in sand. 
 
 RADISHES, IN WHITE SAUCE. 
 
 Take a bunch of radishes, scrape them, cut 
 them in rather thick slices, and boil in salted 
 water until tender; strain the water off, and 
 have ready half a pint of nicely made and well 
 seasoned white sauce, into which put the 
 radishes ; make thoroughly hot again. Cut two 
 or three well coloured and cooked carrots into 
 nice shapes or round slices ; pile the radishes on 
 a hot dish, and garnish with the carrots and 
 chopped parsley. This may be served as a 
 vegetable entree, or as an adjunct to roast beef. 
 
 RADISH, HORSE. 
 
 Wash the horse-radish thoroughly, and lay it 
 in cold water for an hour. Scrape it into fine 
 curly shreds with a sharp knife, and use it to 
 garnish various dishes. It is a frequent accom- 
 paniment to roast beef and to many kinds of 
 fish. 
 
 RADISH PODS, TO PICKLE (a simple recipe). 
 
 Gather the pods when the seeds within them 
 are fully grown, but soft, i.e., when they are , 
 in the condition of green peas. Wash them in 
 salted water, put them into glass bottles or 
 nnglazed jars, and pour cold vinegar over them. 
 As the vinegar becomes absorbed, add more, and 
 when the jars are full and the vinegar no longer 
 shrinks, tie down closely, and store in a dry 
 place. The advantage of pickling the pods in 
 this way is that they can be taken from the 
 garden and put into the bottles as they become 
 ready for use. If liked, a blade of mace, an 
 ounce of ginger, and half an ounce of pepper 
 may be put with each pint of vinegar. 
 
 RADISH PODS, TO PICKLE (a superior recipe). 
 Gather the pods when quite young, and lay 
 them in strong brine for twenty-four hours. 
 Drain the brine from them, boil it, pour it upon 
 them boiling hot, and keep the jar well covered, 
 to keep in the steam. When the brine is cold 
 boil it again, and continue this until the pods 
 are green. Drain the pods, put them into glass 
 bottles or unglazed jars, pour over them as 
 much boiling vinegar as will cover them, and 
 when this is cold, boil it a second time, and 
 pour over the pods, which must be well covered 
 with the vinegar. When the pickle is quite cold, 
 tie the jars closely, and store in a cool, dry place. 
 A blade of mace, an ounce of whole ginger, and 
 an ounce of pepper may be boiled with each pint 
 of vinegar. 
 
 RADISH SAUCE. 
 
 Peel and grate the radishes, and mix them 
 with a little oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper. 
 This sauce is an excellent accompaniment to cold 
 meat. If liked, scraped horse-radish equalling 
 a third of the quantity of radishes, and as much 
 minced beetroot may be mixed with the grated 
 radish. 
 
 RADISH SAUCE, HORSE. 
 
 Take a piece of butter the size of an egg, 
 beat it up with half a table-spoonful of flour; 
 thin it with a cupful of warm broth, place it on 
 the fire to boil, stirring all the time ; stir in two 
 table-spoonfuls of grated horse-radish, let it 
 
RAD 
 
 663 
 
 RAG 
 
 heat but not boil, add a little salt, and serve. 
 Vinegar may be added if liked. 
 
 RADISH, VARIETIES OF. 
 
 The varieties of radish in cultivation are 
 extremely numerous ; they are usually classed, 
 however, under the two well-known heads of 
 long-rooted and turnip-rooted radishes, the roots 
 of the former resembling the carrot in shape, 
 those of the latter the turnip. The varieties 
 present marked differences, not only in the form 
 of root but in colour and size. The prevailing 
 colour is red. Some of the darker-coloured 
 turnip-rooted radishes grow to the size of a 
 man's head. The common radish is a native of 
 Asia, from the coasts of the Mediterranean to 
 Japan, and has been cultivated in China, India, 
 and Europe from the most ancient times. 
 
 RADISH, WHOLESOMENESS OF THE. 
 
 The radish is generally considered a pleasant 
 stimulating condiment ; it is, however, an article 
 of diet which most dyspeptic patients would do 
 well to avoid. Radish-juice mixed with sugar- 
 candy is a popular and useful German remedy 
 for hoarseness and cough. 
 
 RAGOUT. 
 
 Strictly speaking, a ragout is a rich, highly- 
 flavoured sauce made with mushrooms, truffles, 
 sweetbreads, quenelles, stewed vegetables, etc., 
 and used as a garnish for entrees or removes. 
 Thus we have Toulouse ragout, the recipe for 
 making which will be found under its proper 
 heading. Ordinarily, however, a ragout is 
 simply understood to mean any highly-fla- 
 voured preparation of meat or fish, poultry or 
 game. 
 
 RAGOUT FINANCIERE. 
 
 Prepare and cook equal quantities of mush- 
 rooms, quenelles, cock's-combs, cock's kernels, 
 scallops of sweetbread, and sliced truffles. Let 
 these articles be as nearly as possible of uniform 
 size, put them into a saucepan, and pour over 
 them as much good brown sauce as will barely 
 cover them. Add a glassful of light wine, place 
 the saucepan on a gentle fire, and let its con- 
 tents simmer gently until they are thoroughly 
 hot. This ragout is used for garnishing various 
 dishes. Time to heat the ragout, three minutes. 
 
 RAGOUT OF GARLIC, MILD. 
 
 Garlic is not universally liked, probably owing 
 to its strong savour and smell. Those who are 
 fond of it, however, are generally very partial to 
 it, and these persons will welcome it simply 
 boiled till tender, without sauce or gravy, and 
 served in the same dish with roast mutton. 
 When thus served, its flavour and smell will be 
 rendered much milder if the water in which it is 
 boiled be changed every five or ten minutes until 
 it is done enough, and the more frequent these 
 changes are the milder the garlic will be. In- 
 stead of serving it dry with the mutton, the 
 garlic may be put into good brown gravy or 
 white sauce, and poured over the meat. Time 
 to boil the garlic, half an hour. 
 
 RAGOUT POWDER. 
 
 Take one ounce of grated lemon-rind, one 
 ounce of ground black pepper, one ounce of dry 
 mustard, half an ounce of grated nutmeg, half 
 
 an ounce of powdered ginger, a quarter of an 
 ounce of cayenne, a quarter of an ounce of 
 powdered mace, and a quarter of an ounce of 
 powdered cloves. Dry these ingredients before 
 a very gentle fire ; they must be placed at some 
 distance from it, and dried very slowly, or their 
 flavour will evaporate. Pound them thoroughly 
 in a marble mortar, mix with them two ounces 
 of salt, and pass the powder through a flne hair 
 sieve. Put the powder into small bottles per- 
 fectly dry, cork these down tightly, and store in 
 a dry place. A small portion added to ragouts 
 and sauces will impart an agreeable flavour. 
 
 RAGOUT POWDER (another way). 
 
 Grate the rinds of two lemons and two Seville 
 oranges. Take a quarter of a pound of truffles, 
 a quarter of a pound of dried mushrooms, a large 
 nutmeg grated, an ounce of powdered mace, an 
 ounce of ground black pepper, and a salt-spoon- 
 ful of cayenne. Dry these ingredients well be- 
 fore a gentle fire, as in the last recipe. Pound 
 them to a powder in a marble mortar, mix with 
 them two ounces of salt, pass the powder through 
 a sieve, cork it tightly, and bottle for use. 
 
 RAGOUTS, FORCEMEAT FOR. 
 
 (See FoBCEMEAT roB Meat Pies ob Ragotits.) 
 
 RAGOUTS, GRAVY FOR ALL KINDS OF. 
 
 Take two slices of ham and two pounds of 
 lean veal from the fillet. Cut the meat into six 
 or eight pieces, and put these in a stewpan with 
 half a pint of water. Bring the liquor slowly 
 to the boil, and simmer very gently for half an 
 hour, when it will have nearly boiled away. 
 Turn the meat, put into the saucepan with it an 
 onion stuck with two cloves, a bunch of parsley, 
 a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, half a blade of 
 mace, a carrot cut into two or three pieces, 
 three of four outer sticks of celery (or half a tea- 
 spoonful of celery-seed tied in muslin), a little 
 pepper and salt, and three pints of boiling water. 
 Bring the liquor to the boil, draw the saucepan 
 to the side, and simmer all very gently without 
 the lid for two hours. Strain the liquor, and 
 put it aside for use. The pieces of meat may be 
 potted and serve as a relish for breakfast or 
 luncheon, or they may be served with a piquant 
 sauce. Sufficient for a quart of gravy. Prob- 
 able cost, 3s. Time, two hours and a half. 
 
 RAGOUTS, GRAVY FOR ALL KINDS OF (another 
 way). 
 The bones and trimmings of meat and poultry 
 ought to furnish stock for making the sauces 
 required for everyday use in an ordinary house- 
 hold. In a properly managed kitchen no bone 
 ought to be thrown away until it has been 
 stewed so that it is as clean as a piece of ivory. 
 If cooks would only stew the bones thoroughly, 
 they might save their masters many pounds in a 
 year, which are otherwise spent in buying beef 
 and veal for stock; and if the cook were clever 
 in flavouring her sauces, six persons out of ten 
 would not discover that the sauce was not made 
 from fresh meat. To make stock from bones, 
 break up the bones of a leg of mutton or of a 
 piece of beef into small pieces. If these bones 
 are not at hand, purchase from the butcher two 
 pennyworth of fresh. Wash these with scrupu-. 
 lous care, and cut away any portions that are 
 not agreeable. Put the bones into a large sauce- 
 
RAI 
 
 661 
 
 RAI 
 
 van, and pour over them five pints of cold water. 
 If a very strong gravy is wanted, less water 
 may be used. Bring the liquor slowly to the 
 boil, remove every particle of scum, and let it 
 simmer very gently indeed for five hours. Strain 
 it into a bowl, and if convenient put it aside 
 until the next day. Take away the cake of fat 
 from the top (it may be used for frying fish, etc.), 
 pour off the liquor gently, to leave imdisturbed 
 any sediment which may have settled at the bot- 
 tom. , Put the stock into a saucepan, and with 
 it vegetables and herbs for flavouring suited to 
 the meat with which it is to be served. For 
 ordinary brown gravy the following will be suf- 
 ficient: — A large carrot cut into three or four 
 pieces, three or four outer sticks of celery, or 
 half a tea-spoonful of bruised celery-seed tied in 
 muslin, an onion stuck with three cloves, a small 
 blade of mace, a bunch of sweet herbs, two tea- 
 epoonfuls of salt, and a tea-spoonful of pepper. 
 Simmer all gently for two hours, strain the stock, 
 and put it aside in a cool place. It will keep for 
 a week in cold weather, in hot weather it should 
 be boiled every other day. When it is wanted, 
 take as much of it as is required, mix with it a 
 small portion of Bovril, thicken it if necessary 
 with a little brown thickening, and it will be 
 ready for use. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of 
 the bones. Sufficient for a quart of gi'avy. 
 Time, two days. 
 
 RAISED PIE, FRENCH. 
 
 (See Raised Pies.) 
 RAISED PIE, LANCASHIRE. 
 
 (See 'Lancashire Raised Pie.) 
 
 RAISED PIES. 
 
 Raised pies may be D'ade of any size and with 
 almost all kinds of meat, poultry, or game, the 
 only indispensable requisite being that there 
 shall be no bone in them. They are usually 
 served cold, and should be rather highly 
 flavoured. The pastry of small pies is generally 
 eaten, but with large pies it is merely used as a 
 case in which to serve the savoury preparation 
 inside. There is no difficulty in making the 
 pastry for raised pies, but inexperienced cooks 
 are sure to find it difficult to raise the walls of 
 the pie. The process is much easier of accom- 
 plishment if a tin mould is used. Instructions 
 are here given both for forming the pie with and 
 without a mould (see Raised Pies, To Fokm). 
 Raised pies should be baked in a well-heated but 
 by no means brisk oven, and if there is any 
 danger of the pastry being too highly coloured, 
 a buttered paper should be laid over it. In 
 order to ascertain whether or not the pie is done 
 enough run a, skewer into the middle of it, and 
 if it is tender throughout it is done. When the 
 appearance of the pie is a, consideration, it is a 
 good plan to cut the top carefully out, and cover 
 the meat with bright stifE aspic jelly cut into 
 dice. If this is not done, however, a little good 
 bright gravy which will form a jelly when cold 
 should always be poured into the pie through 
 the hole at the top whenever it is taken out of 
 the oven. In summer time it is safer to stiffen 
 this with a little dissolved isinglass. 
 
 RAISED PIES OF GAME OR POULTRY. 
 
 This recipe may be followed in making raised 
 pies with all kinds of birds, and the quantity of 
 
 forcemeat used must be proportioned to the size 
 and number of the birds. Mushrooms and 
 truffles may be added if liked. Cut the bird 
 open down the back, and bone it without in- 
 juring the skin ; lay it breast downwards upon a 
 table, and season the inside with pepper, salt, 
 and pounded mace. Spread upon it a layer of 
 veal forcemeat, and place on this first a layer of 
 slices of veal, and then of slices of ham or 
 tongue. Put a layer of forcemeat over all, and 
 restore the bird to its original shape, making the 
 skin meet where it was cut. Line the pie with 
 good veal forcemeat half an inch in thickness. 
 Lay the bird upon this, cover with forcemeat and 
 fill the vacant spaces with forcemeat and pieces 
 of ham and veal ; place a slice of butter and two, 
 bay-leaves on the top, put on the cover, and 
 finish the pie as directed m the following recipes 
 (see Raised Pies, To Fobm). Bake in a moderate 
 oven. Whilst it is baking, stew the bones with 
 a little seasoning to make gravy, and if this is 
 not sufficiently strong to jelly when cold, dis- 
 solve a little isinglass in it. Pour this gravy 
 into the pie when it is done, and serve cold. If 
 liked, the bird may be jointed, the bones re- 
 moved, and the pie filled with alternate layers 
 of forcemeat, game, veal, and ham ; but it must 
 be remembered that the undermost and upper- 
 most layers should be composed of forcemeat. It 
 is always an improvement to lard the fieshy parts 
 of game or poultry with thin slices of bacon. 
 Time, a good-sized pie, made with a large 
 chicken and three or four slices of ham and veal, 
 will require from four to five hours' baking. 
 
 RAISED PIES, PASTE FOR. 
 
 (See Paste poe Raised Pies.) 
 
 RAISED PIES, TO FORM. 
 
 Make some pastry into the form of a cone, 
 flatten the sides with the palms of the hands, 
 and then squeeze the point down a little, and 
 press the knuckles of the left hand into the 
 middle of the pastry till the inside is hollow. 
 
 J 
 
 ^.\ 
 
 "S 
 
 '^^^^ ^1'",^ \ 
 
 '^S'**™, 
 
 'SK:rmm...,*imK&^ I 
 
 RAISED PIE. 
 
 Knead it well with the fingers, and be careful to 
 have every part of an equal thickness. Fill the 
 pie, roll out the remainder of the pastry to the 
 size of the top of the pie, moisten the edges with 
 a little egg, and lay on the cover. Press this 
 down securely, and pinch it with pastry pincers. 
 Make a small hole in the centre of the pie, and 
 ornament with pastry leaves, chains, or any 
 fanciful designs. Brush all over with egg, and 
 bake in a well-heated oven. When the pie is 
 done enough, take it out, and pour in a little 
 good gravy which will jelly when cold. If a 
 
RAI 
 
 665 
 
 RAI 
 
 mould is used, butter it, and line it with good 
 firm pastry. Fill the pie, roll out the cover, 
 moisten the edges of the pastry, lay it on, and 
 press it down securely, bo that the edge of the 
 pie may be raised slightly above the cover. 
 Pinch the edges with the pastry nippers. Make 
 a small hole m the centre, and lay upon the pie 
 pastry ornaments of any description. Brush 
 over with egg, and bake in a well-heated oven. 
 Take it out, draw out the pin which fastens the 
 side of the mould, and take the pie out carefully. 
 If it is not sufficiently browned, put it into the 
 oven a quarter of an hour longer. Eaised pies 
 should be served on a neatly-folded napkin, and 
 garnished with parsley. 
 
 RAISIN. 
 
 Eaisins are simply grapes dried in the sun 
 or in an oven. Those dried in the sun are much 
 the best. There are several kinds : Muscatels, 
 Valencias, Smyrna, and Eleme raisins, and Sul- 
 tana raisins, which are without stones, and 
 generally used in cookery. When making good 
 cakes and puddings it is well worth while to 
 use good Muscatel raisins, as they are much 
 superior in flavour to the common ones, and 
 especially as grocers frequently sell loose ones, 
 which answer excellently for the purpose, at a 
 cheaper rate than the bunches which are to be 
 used for dessert. 
 
 RAISIN AND ALMOND PUDDING. 
 
 (^ee Ai^oND AND Eaisin Pudding.) 
 
 RAISIN CAKE. 
 
 Beat half a pound of sweet butter to a cream. 
 Add half a pound of powdered and sifted sugar, 
 half a pound of flour, a pinch of salt, a salt- 
 spoonful of grated nutmeg, three eggs well- 
 beaten — the yolks and whites separately — a 
 table-spoonful of brandy, and as much soda as 
 will lie on a sixpence, dissolved in a wine-glassful 
 of hot milk. Beat the mixture till it is quite 
 light. Stone half a pound of Muscatel raisins, 
 chop them small, roll them in flour, and stir 
 them into the cake. Line a small cake-tin with 
 buttered paper, three-parts fill it with the batter, 
 and bake, in a well-heated - oven. In order to 
 ascertain when the cake is done enough put a 
 skewer into the middle of it, and if when drawn 
 out it is bright and dry, the cake is done. If 
 preferred, commoner raisins may of course be 
 used, but the Muscatels are very much superior 
 to them in flavour and quality. Time to bake, 
 three-quarters of an hour to one hour. Probable 
 cost, 2s. 3d. 
 
 RAISIN CHEESE. 
 
 Stone two pounds of raisins, and put them 
 into a saucepan with one pound of sugar, three 
 or four cloves, and half a nutmeg, grated. Boil 
 for an hour and a half, then take the pan from 
 the fire, and when the cheese is a little cool pour 
 it into the dish in which it is to be served. 
 Garnish with thin strips of candied fruit. Time, 
 an hour and a half. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 RAISIN CORDIAL. 
 
 Stone and cut up a pound of raisins, add an 
 ounce of bruised ginger, the thin rinds of two 
 lemons and an orange, and a quart of old 
 whiskey or gin. Bottle and cork up, leave for 
 a few weeks, then strain, and add a pound of 
 
 lump sugar which has previously been boiled in 
 half a pint of water to dissolve it. Bottle and 
 cork again, and strain in another week; filter 
 before finally bottling. 
 
 RAISIN ELDER WINE, 
 
 Crush eight quarts of ripe elderberries in a 
 tub or earthen pan, mix with them five pounds 
 of good moist sugar, and let them lie for twenty- 
 four hours. Pick thirty-six pounds of good 
 Malaga raisins from their stalks, stone and cut 
 them small, and pour on them nine gallops of 
 boiling soft water, then stir them well, and 
 leave the vessel closely covered till the day 
 following. Boil the elderberries and their juice 
 half an hour, skimming well until quite clear, 
 and strain it on to the raisins, stirring the mix- 
 ture twenty minutes. Three days after this, 
 strain the liquor well, put it into a ten-gallon 
 cask upon the thin rinds of six lemons and two 
 Seville oranges, and, leaving the bung out, let 
 it ferment; minding to keep the cask filled up 
 as it works out. When it has ceased hissing, 
 put in a quart of brandy, and stop it up for two 
 months; then rack it off into a clean vessel, 
 filter the dregs, and fill the cask again, adding 
 six ounces of sugar-candy and an ounce of 
 isinglass dissolved in a little water. Secure the 
 bung well, and let it stand ten months ; then 
 bottle it, seal the corks, and in six months more 
 commence using it. 
 
 RAISIN PUDDING, BAKED. 
 
 Shred finely six ounces of beef suet. Mix 
 with this three-quarters of a pound of flour, a 
 pinch of salt, the rind of a fresh lemon cut very 
 small, three-quarters of a pound of stoned 
 raisins, and half a tea-spoonful of grated nut- 
 meg. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly, and 
 stir in with them three eggs and as much milk 
 as will make a thick batter. This will be about 
 a quarter of a pint. Pour the mixture into a 
 buttered mould, and bake in a well-heated oven. 
 Turn it out, sift powdered sugar over it, and it 
 will be ready for serving. Time to bake, one 
 hour and a quarter. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 RAISIN PUDDING, BOILED. 
 
 Shred half a pound of beef suet very finely. 
 Mix with this four ounces of flour, two ounces 
 of ground rice, a pinch of salt, four ounces of 
 Demerara sugar, four ounces of stoned raisins, 
 and the grated rind of a small lemon. Mix the 
 dry ingredients thoroughly, stir in with them 
 a quarter of a pint oi milk which has been 
 beaten up with one egg and the strained juice 
 of a lemon. Pour the mixture into a plain, 
 well-buttered mould, tie it closely down, plunge 
 it into plenty of fast-boiling water, and let it 
 boil quickly until done enough. Turn it out, 
 sift powdered sugar thickly over it, and serve 
 with pudding sauce. Time to boil, three hours. 
 Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 RAISIN PUDDING, ECONOMICAL. 
 
 Shred eight ounces of beef suet very finely, 
 and mix with it one pound of flour, a pinch of 
 salt, a dessert-spoonful of moist sugar, a tea- 
 spoonful of baking powder, the eighth of a 
 nutmeg grated, and ten ounces of stoned raisins. 
 Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly, and stir 
 
RAI 
 
 666 
 
 RAI 
 
 in with them as much milk as will make a thick 
 batter. Pour the preparation into a, buttered 
 dish, and bake in a well-heated oveu. Turn out 
 the pudding, strew sugar over it, and serve. 
 This pudding may be boiled as well as baked. 
 Time to bake, one hour and a half. Probable 
 cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for seven or eight 
 persons. 
 
 RAISINS, STEWED. 
 
 Take as many raisins as may be wanted and 
 stone them ; then cover with cold water, and let 
 them soak for a few hours— ten or twelve if 
 convenient. Then cook them in a, stone jar or 
 stewpau, either on the hot plate of a range or 
 in the oven, which can scarcely be too slow. 
 The raisins will swell a good deal, and no sugar 
 is wanted unless they are dry and poor. They 
 are nourishing and easilj digested, and possess 
 laxative properties. 
 
 RAISINS, VARIETIES OF. 
 
 The muscatels are the moat highly esteemed, 
 and are prepared by cutting the stalk half off 
 that bears the bunch when the grapes are fully 
 ripe, removing all leaves that can shade them, 
 and allowing them thus to dry in the sun. 
 These are called " raisins of the sun." The 
 bunches are carefully removed, and packed in 
 boxes in layers, with a paper separating each 
 layer. A more common kind called lexias is pre- 
 pared by collecting the grapes when ripe, and 
 dipping them into a lye made from the ashes 
 produced by burning the branches of the vine. 
 These are mostly from Valencia, as the preced- 
 ing kinds are from Malaga — both from Southern 
 Spain. A small black raisin comes from Smyrna, 
 in Asia Minor. It is dry, and generally used for 
 culinary purposes. Another variety from Tur- 
 key in Asia, called Sultanas, is put up in 
 drums, and although small, is delicious. 
 \^'hat we call currants, from the Grecian 
 Islands, are really raisins, and should be so 
 designated. They are small, seedless grapes, 
 growing on the Islands of Zante, Corfu, and 
 Cephalonia, on the western coast of Greece. 
 The price depends much on the season and the 
 period of the year. 
 
 RAISIN WINE. 
 
 March is the best time for making raisin wine. 
 Take eight pounds of fine Smyrna raisins for 
 every gallon of water that is to be used. Pick 
 the large stalks only from the raisins. Put them 
 into a perfectly sound sweet tub, pour the water 
 over them, and press them well down. Cover 
 the tub, and stir the mixture every day for four 
 weeks. Strain the liquor, and squeeze the 
 raisins as dry as possible. Put the wine into a 
 cask, cover up the bung-hole to keep out the 
 dust, and when the hissing sound ceases, bung 
 the hole closely, and leave the wine untouched 
 for twelve months. Draw it off into a clean 
 cask, and filter the dregs carefully through three 
 or four folds of muslin. Bung it up again, and 
 bottle it at the end of three years. If preferred, 
 the wine may be bottled at the end of a twelve- 
 month, but it will be much improved by keep- 
 ing. Those who prefer having a little brandy 
 in the wine may put a bottle or more into the 
 cask with the liquor. Good vinegar may 
 be made from raisins which have been used for 
 
 RAISIN WINE (another way.) 
 
 Take two hundredweight of raisins with all 
 their stalks, put them into a large hogshead, and 
 fill it up with water ; let, them steep a fortnight, 
 stirring them every day; then pour off the 
 liquor, and press the raisins. Put both liquors 
 together into a nice oleaiiovessel that will just 
 hold it, but remember it must be quite full ; let 
 it stand till it has done hissing or making the 
 least noise, then stop it close, and let it stand 
 six months. Peg it, and if you find it quite 
 clear, rack it off into another vessel. Stop it 
 close again, and let it stand three months 
 longer; then bottle, and when wanted for use 
 rack it off into a decanter. 
 
 RAISIN WINE (another way). 
 
 A raisin wine possessing the flavour of Fon- 
 taigne may be made in the following manner. 
 Take six pounds of raisins, boil them in six gal- 
 lons of water, and when perfectly soft rub them 
 through a colander to separate the stones. Add 
 the pulp to the water in which the raisins have 
 been boiled, pour this mixture upon twelve 
 pounds of white sugar, and suffer it to ferment, 
 with the addition of half a pint of yeast. When 
 the fermentation has nearly ceased, add to it a 
 quarter of a peck of elder flowers contained in 
 a bag, which should be suspended in the cask, 
 and removed when the wine has acquired the 
 desired flavour. When the wine has become 
 clear, it may be drawn off into bottles. 
 
 RAISIN WINE VINEGAR. 
 
 Kaisins from which wine has been made will 
 make excellent vinegar, and as the stalks are 
 very acid care should be taken to pick them out, 
 and throw them into the cask in which the 
 vinegar is being made. Take the raisins which 
 have been used to make nine gallons of wine. 
 Put with them the dregs and stalks, and pour 
 four gallons of hot water over the whole. Cover 
 the tub, and stir its contents occasionally. When 
 no more goodness is to be got out of the fruit, 
 strain the liquor^ put it into a cask, and let it 
 stand nine or ten months before it is bottled. 
 
 RAISIN WINE, WITH CIDER (a light wine). 
 
 Cut thirty pounds of Malaga raisins, take out 
 the stones, put them into a tub, and pour over 
 them five gallons of boiling water ; add the rind 
 of ten Seville oranges and their juice; stir all 
 well ten minutes, and let them infuse ten days, 
 closely covered up, stirring every day. Press 
 the fruit in a hair bag, and strain the liquor 
 through a fine sieve, put it into a sweet ten- 
 gallon cask, and fill up with strong cider. Stir 
 it twenty minutes, cover the bung-hole with a 
 tile, and let it ferment four or five days, filling 
 up the cask as the liquor works out. When it 
 has ceased hissing, dissolve half a pound of 
 sugar-candy and an ounce of isinglass in two 
 quarts of the wine; pour it into the cask, stir 
 well, and in two hours afterwards add a quart 
 of French brandy. Stop up the bung, paste 
 paper over it, put sand upon that, and leave it 
 twelve months in a cool cellar. You may then 
 bottle it, seal the corks, and keep it nine or ten 
 months in the bottles. 
 
 RAISIN WINE, WITH CIDER (a strong wine). 
 
 Take forty pounds of Malaga raisins, pick 
 them from the stalks, cut them in halves, put 
 
RAJ 
 
 667 
 
 RAM 
 
 them into a sweet eighteen-gallon cask, fill it up 
 with good sound cider, and bung it lightly. 
 After three of Cour days secure the hung, and 
 at the end of six months draw off into a tub all 
 that runs clear; press the liquor from the fruit 
 into another vessel, filter this and the lees 
 through a flannel bag, and put the whole into a 
 ten-gallon cask, with two quarts of Forench 
 brandy, the thin yellow rind of three fresh 
 lemons and four Seville oranges, and half a 
 pound of sugar-candy crushed small. Bung the 
 cask securely; after twelve months, bottle the 
 wine, seal the corks, and keep it for two years. 
 
 RAJAH'S RELISH. 
 
 Take the thin rind of half a lemon, the juice 
 of six large or nine small lemons, a tea-spoonful' 
 of salt, and a salt-spoonful of cayenne, and put 
 all into an enamelled saucepan. Bring to the 
 boil, simmer for five minutes, turn into an 
 earthen vessel, and cover with a cloth until cold, 
 then strain very carefully until clear. Pour 
 into small dry bottles, cork well, and store in a 
 cool dry place. Probable cost, lOd. 
 
 RAMAKIN OR CHEESE PUDDING. 
 
 Grate half a pound of good old Cheshire 
 cheese, and mix a large table-spoonful of flour 
 with it. Stir in gradually a little milk to 
 moisten the cheese, and afterwards add three or 
 four well-beaten eggs, and as much milk as will 
 make the batter of the consistency of cream. 
 Half fill a buttered dish with the mixture, place 
 little pieces of butter here and there upon the 
 surface, and bake the pudding in a bri^ oven. 
 When it is well risen and of a golden colour it is 
 done enough. Serye as quickly as possible after 
 it is taken out of the oven, or it will spoil. 
 Time to bake, fifteen to twenty minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, la. 4d. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. (See also Cheese Pudding, etc.) 
 
 RAMAKINS (served with the Cheese course). 
 
 Grate two ounces each of two kinds of cheese 
 of different flavour, such as Parmesan and 
 Gruyere, Cheshire, and Gloucester. Soak the 
 crumb of a small roll in boiling milk for ten 
 minutes, strain it, and put it in a mortar with 
 the grated cheese,' two ounces of fresh butter, 
 the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, and a little 
 pepper and salt. Pound these ingredients well 
 together, and when smooth add the well-whisked 
 whites of the eggs. Make some small paper 
 trays, about an inch deep and three inches 
 square, half fill them with the mixture, and 
 bake in a moderately-heated oven. Serve 
 quickly. A spoonful of light wine may be added 
 to the batter if liked. Time to bake, a quarter 
 of an hour. 
 
 RAMAKINS (another way). 
 
 Put a saucepan on the fire containing the third 
 of a pint of milk,, two ounces of fresh butter, and 
 a pinch of salt. Add gradually two tea-spoon- 
 fuls of flour, beat the mixture till quite smooth, 
 and stir it for five minutes, or until it is quite 
 hot. Take it off the fire, and add two ounces 
 of grated Parmesan, Gruyere, or Cheshire cheese, 
 four well-beaten eggs, and a little pepper and 
 pounded mace. Make some little paper trays 
 about an inch deep and three inches square. 
 Half fill them with the mixture, and bake in a 
 gentle oven. The batter for the ramakins ought 
 
 to be as thick as cream. Time to bake, a quarter 
 of an hour. 
 
 RAMAKINS, DUTCH. 
 
 Grate two ounces of Cheshire cheese, and put 
 it in a marble mortar with the yolk of a hard- 
 boiled egg, and a slice of fresh butter. One 
 anchovy may be added if liked. Pound the 
 mixture till quite smooth. Toast a large slice 
 of bread, butter it, and spread the mixture 
 thickly upon it. Cut it into small squares. 
 Bake these in a Dutch oven, or brown them by 
 holding a salamander over them for two or three 
 minutes, and serve very hot, neatly arranged on 
 a, folded napkin. 
 
 RAMAKINS, FRIED. 
 
 Slice thinly four ounces of rich cheese, and put 
 it into a perfectly clean saucepan with two 
 ounces of fresh butter. Shake over a gentle 
 fire till the mixture is melted, let it cool a 
 minute or two, and stir in briskly the whites 
 of three eggs beaten to a firm froth. Put some 
 small squares of bread into the frying-pan with 
 a little hot butter, spread the mixture upon the 
 bread, and fry the ramakins for five minutes. 
 Drain them from the fat, hold a salamander or 
 red-hot iron over them till they are lightly 
 browned, and serve very hot. , 
 
 RAMAKINS, GERMAN. 
 
 Take a pint of new milk, and simmer it in 
 a saucepan, but do not let it boil ; by degrees 
 add three handfuls of fiour, stirring all the time. 
 When the paste is smooth and without lumps, 
 put in a little salt, a piece of butter, and a 
 quarter of a pound of Parmesan or Gruyere 
 cheese, or both mixed — not grated, but cut into 
 small slices. Stir the whole on the fire till the 
 preparation is perfectly mixed. When it is 
 boiled enough — which may readily be ascer- 
 tained, as the paste will then easily roll from 
 the saucepan — take it off the fire, beat up three 
 eggs, and stir them in, keeping the paste hot 
 till the moment of serving. Butter a dish that 
 will stand the fire, or a baking-tin, pour in the 
 paste, and set it in a moderate oven. The cake 
 will rise in ten minutes, like a soufSe, and be 
 of a fine yellow colour. Serve at once. 
 
 RAMAKINS PASTRY. 
 
 Take any pieces of good puff-paste left from 
 making pies or tarts, or if these are not at hand 
 make a small quantity of good puff paste. 
 Grate half its weight in Parmesan cheese, roll 
 the pastry out evenly, and sprinkle the cheese 
 lightly over it. Fold it in three, and roll it out 
 lightly; repeat this once or twice until the 
 pastry and cheese are well mixed. Stamp the 
 ramakins out with a small pastry cutter of any 
 shape that may be desired, brush them over 
 with yolk of egg, and bake in a brisk oven. As 
 soon as they are done enough serve them quickly, 
 neatly arranged on a hot napkin. Although 
 Parmesan cheese is the best for this j)urpose, 
 any dry white cheese may be used instead. 
 Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. 
 
 RAMAKINS, WITH ALE OR WINE. 
 
 Soak the crumb of a French roll in a cupful 
 of boiling cream for a few minutes. Put it in 
 a mortar with four ounces of grated Cheshire 
 cheese, and four ounces of good butter. Pound 
 the mixture well, and beat it thoroughly with 
 
RAM 
 
 668 
 
 RAS 
 
 the whisked yolks of four eggs, and a wine-glass- 
 ful of ale or wine.> Half 111 some small paper 
 'trays with the mixture, and bake the ramakins 
 in a gentle oven, or in a Dutch oven before the 
 fire. Serve very hot. Time to bake, a quarter 
 of an hour. 
 
 RAMAQUINS. 
 
 (See Ramakins.) 
 RAMAZAN CAKES (a Turkish recipe). 
 
 Take half a pound of rice-flour, and dilute it 
 with two glasses of milk; pass the preparation 
 through a sieve into a stewpan. Boil over a 
 moderate fire, stirring all the time. Add sugar 
 to taste, let it reduce for seven or eight minutes, 
 then add a few drops of extract of roses or of 
 jessamine ; turn it out -on a round baking-sheet, 
 previously moistened with cold water. Let the 
 preparation be nearly an inch in thickness, and 
 smooth its surface. When it is cold, sprinkle 
 it with fine sugar, and divide it into small 
 cakes, lozenge-shaped, round or oblong, accord- 
 ing to taste. 
 RAMPION. 
 
 The root of this plant, which is white and 
 spindle-shaped, used to be much in request for 
 the table under the name of rampion or ramps. 
 The plant is n(iw little cultivated in Britain, 
 but it is still commonly grown in France for the 
 sake of the roots, which are used either boiled 
 or as a salad, and for its young leaves, which 
 are also employed as a salad. The esculent 
 roots are far more delicate than turnips or 
 radishes ; the seeds are ophthalmic. The root, 
 either sliced together with its leaves in salads, 
 or eaten as the radish, as well as boiled like 
 asparagus, is most palatable when drawn young, 
 and eaten fresh from the ground. 
 
 RARE-BIT, WELSH. 
 
 Cut as much cheese as is necessary into small 
 pieces ; add a lump of butter and a little ale ; 
 mix in a saucepan on a good fire until it is well 
 amalgamated; add pepper and salt and a little 
 mustard; pour out upon a square of toast on a 
 hot dish. Some people add a little beef gravy 
 to the rare-bit when it is simmering in the 
 saucepan, and just a dash of chopped garlic. 
 (See also Rabbit (Rare -bit), Welsh, and 
 Cheese, Toasted.) 
 
 raspberries. 
 
 The raspberry is a delicious fruit, extensively 
 used in cookery and in the manufacture of 
 various cordials. Though very wholesome and 
 refreshing, it is scarcely so highly esteemed as 
 either the strawberry or the red currant. There 
 are two kinds of raspberries — the red and the 
 white. The white are the rarer of the two. 
 This fruit is a native of Great Britain, and is 
 often met with in woods, in low-lying situations. 
 To most tastes it is very grateful as nature 
 presents it, but by the addition of sugar it is 
 much improved; the raspberry is, therefore, 
 much esteemed when used for jams and tarts 
 and made into sweetmeats. " The ancients 
 hardly mention the raspberry-tree, which they 
 placed on a level with the bramble. The Latins 
 called it ' Bramble of Ida,' because it was com- 
 mon on that mountain. There can be no doubt, 
 however, that the Romans knew how to appreci- 
 ate the raspberry-tree, as much esteemed in our 
 
 da,ys."—Soyer. The fruit of the different 
 varieties of raspberry is in season from the end 
 of June or July till October or later. As it 
 
 kamazan cakes. 
 
 ripens it should be timely gathered for im- 
 mediate use, because when fully ripe it will 
 not keep above two or three days before it 
 moulds, or becomes maggoty and unfit to be 
 used. 
 
 RASPBERRIES, BOTTLED (for winter Tarts, Creams, 
 or Ices). 
 Pick the raspberries carefully without bruis- 
 ing them, and look into each one to see that no 
 little insects are lurking in the heart of the 
 fruit. Put the raspberries into clean dry wide- 
 mouthed bottles, and cover them with syrup 
 made by boiling, till clear, three pounds of sugar 
 with a quart of water which has been whisked 
 up with a tea-spoonful of the white of an egg. 
 Cork the bottles down tightly, and tie the corks 
 with string. Place them carefully in a large 
 saucepan with cold water to reach up to their 
 necks. Put the saucepan on the fire, and bring 
 the water to the boiling poi»t. Draw it to the 
 side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for ten 
 minutes, lift it down, and let the bottles remain 
 untouched till the water is cold. Examine the 
 corks, and if necessary tie them down again, 
 cover with wax, and store for use. In order to 
 prevent the bottles cracking in the water, it will 
 be a wise precaution to wrap a band of straw 
 round each one. Probable cost of raspberries, 
 2d. to 6d. per pint. 
 
 RASPBERRIES, BOTTLED, WITHOUT BOILING. 
 
 Choose freshly-gathered and perfectly dry 
 raspberries. Pick and weigh them, and take 
 their weight in finely-powdered white sugar. 
 Bruise them slightly, and fill dry wide-necked 
 bottles with layers of fruit and sugar in equal 
 quantities. Cork the bottles immediately, and 
 t cover the corks with bladder which has been 
 moistened with spirits of wine. Store in a very 
 cool, airy situation, or the fruit may ferment. 
 
 RASPBERRIES, COIMPOTE OF. 
 
 Pick a pint of freshly-gathered and perfectly 
 sound raspberries, or if preferred take half a 
 pint of raspberries and half a pint of red 
 
RAS 
 
 669 
 
 RAS 
 
 currants. Boil five ounces of loaf sugar in a 
 C[uarter of a pint of water for ten minutes, put 
 in the picked fruit, and let it simmer gently for 
 six minutes. Lift the raspberries out carefully, 
 and put them into a glass dish. Let the syrup 
 boil a minute longer, and when it is cold pour 
 it over the fruit. Serve as an accompaniment 
 to simple milk puddings of various kinds. 
 Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 5d. to 
 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 RASPBERRIES, COMp6tE OF (another way). 
 
 Bruise a quart of sound raspberries thor- 
 oughly, put them into a glass dish, and sprinkle 
 a pound of powdered sugar over them. Let 
 them lie in a cool place for a couple of hours, 
 then pour over them a quart of thin claret, and 
 a quart of cold water. Send sponge-cake or any 
 light cake to table with them. Time, two hours. 
 
 RASPBERRIES, ICED FOR DESSERT. 
 
 Take as many fine freshly-gathered raspberries 
 as will be wanted. Whisk the white of an egg, 
 and stir in with it two table-spoonfuls of cold 
 spring water. Dip the raspberries one by one 
 in the liquor, drain them, and roll them in 
 finely powdered and sifted sugar. Lay them on 
 paper to dry, and arrange them prettily with 
 other fruits in a dessert-dish. Time to dry, six 
 to eight hours. Probable cost of rasberries, 
 2d. to 6d. per pint. 
 
 RASPBERRIES, PREPARED FOR DESSERT. 
 
 Aa hour before it is to be used, take up the 
 fruit, examine it, and carefully remove every 
 hull, and every imperfect or decayed portion. 
 Have ready a basin of cold water. Take a small 
 handful of raspberries at a time, and pass them 
 quickly through the water without allowing 
 them to remain in it for a second. Put them 
 into the dish in which they are to be served, and 
 sprinkle powdered white sugar plentifully over 
 them. ITiis process will freshen the fruit, and 
 not do it any harm. Care should b'fe taken not 
 to touch the fruit after it has been picked until 
 within an hour before it is to be served. 
 
 RASPBERRIES, PRESERVED. 
 
 Those who grow raspberries in large quanti- 
 ties will do well to gather them before they are 
 fully ripe, and bottle without boiling them, 
 according to the recipe already given (see Easp- 
 BEEBiES, Bottled, without Boiling). It will 
 be found that four ounces of sugar will be 
 sufficient for one of the wide-mouthed bottles 
 ordinarily used. 
 
 RASPBERRIES, PRESERVED (another way). 
 
 Take four pounds of raspberries picked from 
 the stalks, set aside at least half, which should 
 be the finest, add to the rest one pound of white 
 currants, and bruise and strain them through a 
 cloth, wringing it so as to extract all the juice. 
 Put the juice into a preserving-pan, and allow 
 three-quarters of a pound of sugar to every 
 pound of juice, including the weight of the rasp- 
 berries left whole. Let the sugar and juice boil, 
 skimming it, and at the end of twenty minutes 
 put in the rest of -the fruit, and let it boil for 
 ten minutes longer. When the preserve is 
 boiled enough — it is if the syrup jellies when 
 a little is put on a plate to cool — ^take it off the 
 fire, and pot in the usual way. 
 
 RASPBERRIES, PRESERVED WHOLE. 
 
 Gather the raspberries on a dry day when the 
 sun is not upon them. Strip off the stalks, 
 weigh the fruit, and allow three pounds of 
 sugar for four pounds of fruit. Boil the sugar 
 with a very small quantity of water till it is 
 quite clear, put in the raspberries, and simmer 
 them gently for five minutes. Lift them out 
 carefully, and drain them. Boil the syrup till 
 small beads appear on its surface, put in the 
 raspberries, boil them another five minutes, take 
 them up, and drain them again. Boil the syrup 
 till large bubbles are formed, put in the rasp- 
 berries a third time, and when taking them out 
 be especially careful, or they will break. Put 
 them at once into perfectly dry jars or glasses, 
 and cover them closely to exclude the air. Store 
 in a cool airy place. 
 
 RASPBERRIES, WHITE, PRESERVED WHOLE. 
 
 Pick four pounds of raspberries, perfectly 
 sound and dry, and take their weight in refined 
 sugar. Set aside one pound of the sugar, powder 
 and sift it, and boil the remainder to candy 
 height. Put the raspberries very gently into 
 this, and let them boil for five minutes, take 
 them from the fire, and sprinkle the pound of 
 sugar over them. Let them remain until cold, 
 then put them again into the preserving-pan 
 with another pound of powdered sugar and a 
 pint of clear white currant juice, and let them 
 boil gently until the fruit is clear. Remove the 
 scum as it rises, and be very careful to take off 
 the raspberries before they fall. Put them with 
 a spoon one by one into jars, boil the syrup till 
 the bubbles are large, pour it over them, and 
 cover the jars in the usual way. 
 
 RASPBERRY AND CREAM TART. 
 
 Roll out a thin puff-paste, lay it in a patty- 
 pan, put in raspberries, and strew finely- 
 powdered loaf sugar over them. Put on a lid of 
 the paste; and when baked enough, cut the lid 
 open, and put in half a pint of cream, the yolks 
 of two eggs well beaten, and a little sugar. 
 
 RASPBERRY AND CURRANT JAM. 
 
 Take freshly gathered dry fruit, and put a 
 quarter of a pound of raspberries with each 
 pound of red currants. Place the fruit in a per- 
 fectly clean preserving-pan, with three-quarters 
 of its weight in sugar in small lumps. Stir it 
 occasionally until it boils, skim carefully, and 
 boil gently for three-quarters of an hour. Turn 
 it into jars, and cover in the usual way. Store 
 in a dry airy place. Time to boil, three-quarters 
 of an hour from the time the jam boils. 
 RASPBERRY AND CURRANT JELLY. 
 
 Strip the stalks from two pounds of juicy red 
 currants and one pound of white currants, and 
 put them into an earthenware jar with a cupful 
 of fresh sound raspberries and a pound of loaf 
 sugar. Put on the cover, place the jar in a 
 saucepan of boiling water, and keep it simmer- 
 ing gently until the juice flows freely. Pour it 
 off, and strain it through a jelly-bag till it is 
 bright and clear. Put two ounces of isinglass 
 or gelatine with a pint of cold v.'ater into a 
 perfectly clean saucepan. Stir this on the fire 
 tin it boils, then draw it to the side, and let it 
 simmer gently for half an hour. A few minutes 
 before it is taken off the fire, put in with it a 
 
RAS 
 
 670 
 
 RAS 
 
 spoonful of cold water, a lump of sugar, and a 
 tea-spoonful of good vinegar. Stir it for a 
 minute, and remove the scum as it rises. Strain 
 through a jelly-bag, mix it with the filtered 
 juice, pour into a mould, and put in a cold place 
 or upon ice to set. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. 
 
 RASPBERRY AND CURRANT MOULD. 
 
 Soak an ounce and a half of gelatine in a 
 little cold water for an hour. Strip the stalks 
 from a pound of raspberries and a pound of red 
 currants. Put the fruit into a saucepan with 
 half a pint of water and half a pound of loaf 
 sugar, place it on the fire, stir it frequently to 
 keep it from burning and let it boil. Let 
 it boil for four or five minutes until the sugar 
 is perfectly dissolved, and rub the pulp through 
 a hair sieve. Set the gelatine on the fire, and 
 let it boil until it is dissolved, mix it with the 
 pulp, and polir the mixture into a mould made 
 open in the centre. When it is stiff, turn it out 
 upon a glass dish, and fill the centre with 
 whipped cream sweetened and flavoured; pile 
 this high in the middle, and serve. If neces- 
 sary, two or three drops of cochineal may be 
 added to the jelly to heighten its colour. Suf- 
 ficient for a good-sized mould. Probable cost, 
 2s., exclusive of the cream. 
 
 RASPBERRY AND CURRANT TART. 
 
 (See CuBSiNT and Easpbeeby Taet.) 
 
 RASPBERRY AND CURRANT WINE. 
 
 Pick fifteen quarts of ripe red currants from 
 the stalks, pour upon them four gallons of cold 
 river water that has been boiled, and cover the 
 vessel close until the next day. Then pick 
 twenty quarts of red raspberries nicely, pour ou 
 them six gallons of cold water, and cover them 
 also closely. Press the juices out of the fruits 
 in a hair-bag, and first strain, and then filter 
 each separately into the cask ; stir into it thirty- 
 six pounds of strong, bright moist sugar, and 
 covering the bung-hole with a tile, leave it to 
 ferment without yeast. Keep the cask filled up, 
 and when it has ceased hissing, add to it two 
 quarts of French brandy, then stop it up 
 securely at the bung, but leave the vent-peg out 
 three days, then fasten that in, and set the 
 barrel in a cool cellar for three months. It must 
 now be racked and returned into the cask, the 
 lees being well filtered, the bung well secured, 
 and left nine months; then bottle it, seal the 
 corks, and keep iu bottle for a year. 
 
 RASPBERRY AND PISTACHIO CAKE. 
 
 Make a mixture as for Madeira Cake, and to 
 each half pound of flour used in the mixture 
 take an ounce of pistachios, a heaped tea-spoon- 
 ful of raspberry jam, and some red and green 
 colouring. When the cake mixture is ready, 
 divide it, and add the blanched and chopped 
 pistachios and some green colouring to one half, 
 and the red colouring with the jam, passed 
 through a hair sieve, to the other half. Tlien 
 butter and paper a baking-tin, and put the two 
 preparations in, a, spoonful at a time, in irregu- 
 lar lumps. Bake steadily, that the outside may 
 not get dark. A square shallow tin should be 
 used, and the cake cut in slices for serving. 
 For a better cake the top may be iced, and some 
 crystallised raspberries and shredded nuts used 
 for the garnishing. 
 
 RASPBERRY AND RHUBARB JAM (an excellent 
 family preserve). 
 Choose sound, newly-gathered raspberries and 
 well-grown juicy rhubarb, and weigh them after 
 the rhubarb has been pared and the raspberries 
 have been stripped from the stalks. Take 
 double the weight of raspberries to that of rhu- 
 barb, and allow three pounds of powdered loaf 
 sugar to every four pounds of fruit. Slice the 
 rhubarb, put it into a preserving-pan, and let 
 it simmer gently for a quarter of an hour from 
 the time it begins to boil, stirring it occasionally 
 to keep it from burning to the bottom of the 
 pan. Add the raspberries, and boil them half 
 an hour. Stir in the sugar, and boil the jam 
 until it will set when a little is put upon a 
 plate. Pour it immediately into jars, and cover 
 these In the usual way. Keep the jam in a dry 
 airy place. Probable cost, 7a. per pound. 
 
 RASPBERRY BAVAROISE. 
 
 Eemove the stalks from one pound of rasp- 
 berries and bruise the fruit slightly. Put it 
 with four ounces of loaf sugar, one ounce of 
 isinglass, and three-quarters of a pint of water, 
 in a saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil and 
 let it simmer for ten minutes. Strain the syrup 
 through a jelly-bag or fine cloth into a basin, 
 and set it aside to cool. When just becoming 
 a light jelly, whip half a pint of cream to a 
 stiff froth, and add the raspberry jelly, spoonful 
 by spoonful, to it, beating all the time. There 
 will probably be a slight sediment at the bottom 
 of the basin which must not be used. Beat the 
 bavaroise for about ten minutes until it becomes 
 very thick, and put in half a tea-spoonful of 
 cochineal, which should be well beaten in. Pour 
 into a well-wetted mould, and put in a cool 
 place (or on ice) to set. Sufiicient for a pint 
 and a half mould. Probable cost, 2s. 
 
 RASPBERRY BISCUITS. 
 
 Pick and Weigh some fine ripe raspberries, put 
 them in an earthen jar, set this in a pan of 
 boiling water, and keep it boiling until the juice 
 flows freely. Pass juice and pulp through a 
 sieve, mix with it the weight of the fruit — before 
 it was put into the oven — in pounded sugar, 
 and boil briskly, beating it well all the time 
 until it forms a dry paste, and be very careful 
 that it does not burn. Put it into small moulds 
 about half an inch thick; dry these in a hot 
 screen or a cool oven for twenty-four hours or 
 more, and store for use. Baspberry biscuits are 
 used for dessert. Time, about three hours. 
 Probable cost of raspberries, 2d. to 6d. per 
 pint. 
 
 RASPBERRY BLANCMANGE. 
 
 Take four pounds of raspberries. Bruise the 
 fruit a little, and place it in a preserving-pan 
 high above a clear fire, that the juice may be 
 gently drawn from it. Soak an ounce and a 
 half of gelatine in cold spring water for an 
 hour. Strain the juice from the raspberries, and 
 boil it with half a pound of loaf sugar and the 
 "gelatine until the latter is dissolved. Add 
 gradually three-quarters of a pint of cream, and 
 stir this well in. Pour the blancmange into a 
 damp mould, and put it in a cold place until 
 it is set. Turn it out, and serve. Time, alto- 
 gether, one hour and a half. 
 
RAS 
 
 G71 
 
 RAS 
 
 RASPBERRY BRANDY (sometimes called Raspberry 
 Ratafia). 
 Strip the stalks from a quart of freshly- 
 gathered ripe raspberries, put them into a bowl, 
 and pour over them two quarts of genuine 
 brandy. Stir the fruit in the liquor, and bruise 
 it well, cover it closely to exclude the air, and 
 let it soak for ten or twelve days. Add half 
 a pound of loaf sugar boiled with two or three 
 table-spoonfuls of water till it is a clear syrup. 
 Stir this well in, strain the liquor through a 
 jelly-bag, and bottle it. At the end of a fort- 
 night pour it out gentlj, filter it, and when 
 bright and clear put it into fresh bottles ; cork 
 these closely, and store for use. Or, bruise the 
 fruit a little, and gently draw the juice from 
 it. Add half a pint of good brandy to a quart 
 of the juice, together with a quarter of a pound 
 of sugar boiled to syrup. Strain the liqueur, 
 and bottle glosely. A larger proportion of sugar 
 may be used if liked. 
 
 RASPBERRY BRANDY (another way). 
 
 Gather the fruit in fine weather, and pick it 
 nicely; measure it, and put it into a clean 
 stone jar, fix in the bung, tie leather over it, 
 and set it in a saucepan of hot water on the 
 fire, or on a hot hearth, to boil till the juice is 
 all extracted. Strain off the liquor through a 
 fine sieve, and add for each quart of fruit one 
 pound of best loaf sugar roughly broken; boil 
 it ten minutes, skimming all the time. When 
 cold, measure the syrup, and adding to it the 
 iame quantity of French brandy, mix them well 
 ten minutes at least. Then filter it clear; fill 
 half-pint bottles, corking and sealing them, 
 and keep the liqueur twelve months. 
 
 RASPBERRY CAKE. 
 
 Pick a pint of freshly-gathered ripe rasp- 
 berries. Put them into a saucepan; sprinkle 
 two table-spoonfuls of sugar over them, and 
 shake the saucepan over a gentle fire until the 
 juice flows. Before the raspberries can fall, 
 lift them out, boil the syrup till it is clear and 
 thick, and pour it out. Beat to a cream a piece 
 of fresh butter the size of a large egg. Add 
 a table-spoonful of powdered sugar, a table- 
 spoonful of grated bread-crumbs, two or three 
 drops of almond flavouring, and the yolks of 
 two eggs. Beat the mixture thoroughly, then 
 add the whites of the eggs whisked to a froth. 
 Line a tartlet-tin an inch deep with good pastry, 
 cover this with the raspberries, pour the syrup 
 over them, and spread the mixture on the top. 
 Bake in a brisk oven. When the pastry is done 
 enough, the cake is ready. Time to bake, 
 half to three-quarters of an hour. Probable 
 cost, about Is. 4d. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 RASPBERRY CREAM. 
 
 Pick one pint of raspberries. Bruise them 
 well, and put them into a saucepan with three 
 table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar. Let them 
 boil quickly till the juice flows freely, and strain 
 it off for use. If fresh fruit cannot be had, 
 dissolve as much raspberry jelly as will make 
 a third of a pint, or mix half a pound of rasp- 
 berry jam with two table-spoonfuls of water, 
 and strain off the juice. Soak an ounce of 
 gelatine for an hour, and stir it over the fire 
 with three-quarters of a pint of milk till it is 
 
 dissolved. When this is cool add the raspberry 
 juice, two table-spoonfuls of brandy, and a little 
 sugar if necessary. Whip half a pint of cream, 
 add gelatine and juice, and pour into a mould 
 which has been soaked in cold water, and put 
 in a cool place till it is set. Turn it out care- 
 fully just before serving, or, if preferred, serve 
 it in glasses. Time, a quarter of an hour to 
 boil the isinglass in the milk. Probable cost, 4s. 
 
 RASPBERRY CREAM (another way). 
 
 Take some ripe raspberries, bruise, and 
 sprinkle a little sugar over them, let them lie 
 for half an hour, and rub them through a hair 
 sieve. Measure the pulp, and mix with it an 
 equal quantity of thick cream and sugar to 
 sweeten it sufficiently. Whip it well with a 
 whisk, and as the froth forms place it on an 
 inverted sieve to drain. When no more can be 
 obtained, slice three or four sponge biscuits, lay 
 them in a glass dish, and spread a little rasp- 
 berry jam over them. Pour over them the re- 
 mainder of the cream and the drippings from 
 the whip, and just before the cream is to be 
 served pile the froth on the top. If fresh fruit 
 cannot be had, dissolved raspberry jelly or rasp- 
 berry jam mixed with a spoonful or two of water 
 and rubbed through a sieve may be used in its 
 place. Time, one hour to whip the cream. 
 
 RASPBERRY CREAM (another way). 
 
 Bruise the fruit as in the last recipe, sprinkle 
 sugar over it, and in half an hour drain off 
 the juice. Measure it, and take the same 
 quantity of thick cream; sweeten and flavour 
 this, and whip it briskly with white of egg (see 
 Whipped Cebam). As the whip forms lay it on 
 a sieve to drain. When a sufficient quantity is 
 obtained, beat the yolks of the eggs, mix them 
 with the cream which drains from the whip, 
 and stir the mixture over the fire till it thickens 
 like custard. Let it get cold, mix the raspberry 
 juice with it, lay it in a glass dish, and pile the 
 whip on the top. If fresh fruit cannot be had, 
 this cream may be made, like the others, from 
 preserved jelly or jam. The cream should be 
 whipped till all is used. 
 
 RASPBERRY CREAM ICE. 
 
 Mix a pound of fresh ripe raspberries with the 
 juice of a lemon, half a pound of powdered 
 sugar, and a pint and a half of thick cream, 
 or, if preferrea, a pint of cream and half a pint 
 of milk. Beat the mixture in a basin, rub it 
 through a sieve, freeze in the usual way, and 
 leave it in the ice-pail till it is wanted. If more 
 convenient, raspberry jam or raspberry jelly 
 may be used instead of the fresh fruit, and when 
 this is done very little sugar will be required. 
 A still more agreeable and refreshing ice-cream 
 may be made with two portions of red currants 
 mixed with one portion of raspberries instead 
 of raspberries alone. 
 
 RASPBERRY CREAM PUDDING. 
 
 Take half a pound of raspberry jam, pass it 
 through a hair sieve, add four ounces of bread- 
 crumbs, beat together two ounces each of butter 
 and sugar, and, when thoroughly creamed, add 
 them to the jam. Take half a gill of cream, the 
 yolks of two eggs, and the white of one, beat 
 well for a few minutes, and add the mixture to 
 the other ingredients. Butter a mould or dish,. 
 
RAS 
 
 672 
 
 RAS 
 
 and strew it with bread-crumbs mixed with 
 crushed ratafias; put the pudding in, and bake 
 from thirty to forty minutes in a steady oven 
 to a pale colour. Turn it out, spread whipped 
 cream on top, and stick a few raspberries (fresh 
 or crystallised) here and there. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 RASPBERRY CREAMS WITHOUT MILK OR 
 CREAM. 
 
 Dissolve two ounces of raspberry jelly, stir 
 into this an equal weight of finely-powdered and 
 sifted sugar, and add the well-whisked whites of 
 two eggs. Beat the mixture till it is very thick, 
 and serve in custard glasses. Time, about one 
 hour. Probable cost, 6d. for this quantity. 
 Sufficient for two glasses. 
 RASPBERRY CUSTARD. 
 
 Bruise lightly some freshly-gathered ripe rasp- 
 berries, sprinkle a little sugar over them, and 
 heat them' gently to draw out the juice. Pour 
 the juice off, and with a pint of it mix very 
 gradually the well-beaten yolks of three eggs. 
 Stir the custard over a gentle fire for a few 
 minutes, pour it out, and when it is cool mix 
 with it a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice 
 and a quarter of a pint of thick cream. Serve 
 in glasses. Time, six or seven minutes to heat 
 the custard. Probable cost, 2s. per pint. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five glassfuls. 
 RASPBERRY DROPS. 
 
 Bruise one pound of ripe raspberries, and 
 strain the juice through a sieve. Dissolve a 
 pound of loaf sugar with a little water, add the 
 raspberry-juice, and boil the syrup to candy 
 height. Drop it at once as evenly and regularly 
 as possible upon paper rubbed over with butter, 
 or upon oiled plates, and dry the drops in a 
 warm place. When hard, take them off with the 
 point of a knife. 
 RASPBERRY FLUMMERY. 
 
 Soak an ounce of isinglass in cold water for an 
 hour. Put a pound of raspberry jam, or, better 
 still, a pound of fresh raspberries, into a pre- 
 serving-pan with half a pint of white-wine vine- 
 gar. Stir the mixture constantly till it boils, 
 let it simmer a few minutes, and rub it through 
 a sieve. Boil the isinglass until it is dissolved, 
 mix with it the raspberry pulp and as much sugar 
 as will sweeten it sufficiently. Boil the mixture 
 once more, and pass it through muslin into a 
 mould which has been well soaked in cold water. 
 Put it in a cold place, and when it is set turn it 
 out carefully. If preferred, gelatine may be 
 used instead of isinglass. Time, five minutes 
 to boil the fruit with the vinegar. 
 RASPBERRY FOOL. 
 
 Put a pint o.^raspberries into a saucepan with 
 a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, and let them 
 stew till tender. Eub them through a sieve with 
 the back of a wooden spoon, and mix with the 
 pulp as much cream or milk as will make it, of 
 the consistency of custard. Serve cold. When 
 cream is not to be had, and it is desired that the 
 preparation should be richer than it would be if 
 cream only were used, the yolks of two eggs may 
 be added to three-quarters of a pint of milk, and 
 stirred over the fire until it begins to thicken 
 without boiling. Time, ten minutes to stew the 
 raspberries. Probable cost, 2s. if made with 
 cream. Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 RASPBERRY FRITTERS. 
 
 Bruise some fresh raspberries, sweeten them, 
 and draw off the juice. Crumble two sponge 
 biscuits, pour over them half a gill of boil- 
 ing cream or milk, and leave them in a cool 
 place for half an hour. Beat thoroughly 
 the yolks of four eggs, mix them with the bis- 
 cuits, and add as much raspberry-juice as will 
 make the batter a bright pink colour. Take the 
 fritters up in a dessert-spoon, lay them carefully 
 in boiling fat, and fry them till they are set. 
 Drain them, lay them on a dish, garnish half of 
 them with sliced' almonds, and the other half 
 with sliced candied peel or fruit, and ornament 
 the dish with bright-coloured sweets of any 
 kind. Time to fry, three or four minutes. Prob- 
 able costi Is. 6d. Suibcient for five or six 
 persons. 
 RASPBERRY GIN. 
 
 Put two quarts of freshljr-gathered ripe rasp- 
 berries into a stone spirit jar with two pounds 
 of sugar candy and three pints of unsweetened 
 gfin. Cork the jar, and shake it well every day 
 for a month. Put it in a cool place, and at the 
 end of twelve months pour it off carefully, filter, 
 and bottle for use. ft ought to be bright and 
 clear. 
 RASPBERRY ICE. 
 
 Take a pint of the pressed juice of raspberries, 
 add sugar to taste, and pour it into an ice-form ; 
 set it in the ice-pail, and stir with a silver spoon 
 always one way till it is quite frozen through., 
 Let the ice remain in the ice-pail till wanted. 
 Strawberries, currants, and mulberries may all 
 be treated in this way. 
 RASPBERRY ICING. 
 
 Put the white of an egg into a bowl, stir in 
 with it a pound of powdered and sifted sugar 
 and as much raspberry-juice as will make a 
 smooth paste. Whip it well till it is thick and 
 light, spread it at once over whatever is to be 
 covered with it, and dry in a cool oven. 
 
 RASPBERRY JAM. 
 
 As raspberries very soon turn mouldy after 
 they are gathered, it is most important that 
 fresh fruit should be used. Pick the raspberries, 
 put them into a preserving-pan, and bruise them 
 with the back of a wooden spoon. Put them on 
 the fire, and let them boil for half an hour from 
 the time when they boil equally all over. Stir 
 in half their weight of roughly-powdered sugar, 
 and when this is melted boil the jam till it will 
 set. Skim carefully after the sugar is added, or 
 it will not be clear. Pour it while hot into 
 small jars. When cold, lay writing-paper dip|>ed 
 in brandy on the top, and cover the jars with 
 tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with 
 white of egg, or with strong gum water. Store 
 in a dry, airy place. Probable cost, 6d. to 9d. 
 per pound. 
 RASPBERRY JAM (another way). 
 
 When it is not convenient to boil the fruit as 
 soon as it is gathered, or when perfectly fresh 
 fruit cannot be obtained, raspberries may be pre- 
 served as follows. Weigh the raspberries, and 
 allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar for each 
 pound of fruit. Put the fruit and sugar in 
 layers upon a large dish, and let them remain 
 for some hours. When they are to be boiled. 
 
RAS 
 
 613 
 
 RAS 
 
 put fruit and 8ug;ar together into a preserving- 
 pan, stir the jam to keep it from burning, and 
 let it boil gently until it ia done, which may be 
 known by it hanging on the spoon. Remove 
 the scum as it rises, or the jam will not be clear. 
 Put it into jars, cover and store in the usual 
 way. Probable cost, 6d. to 9d. per pound. 
 
 RASPBERRY JAM (another way). 
 
 Mash a quantity of fine ripe dry raspberries, 
 strew on them their own weight of loaf sugar, 
 and add half their weight of white-currant juice. 
 Boil them half an hour over a clear slow fire, 
 skim well, and put them into pots or glasses; 
 tie down with brandied papers, and keep them 
 dry. Strew on the sugar as soon as possible 
 after the berries are gathered, and in order to 
 preserve their flavour they must nor stand long 
 before they are boiled. 
 
 RASPBERRY JAM, SUPERIOR. 
 
 Pick four pounds of freshly-.gathered rasp- 
 berries, and put them into a preserving-pan 
 with one pint of red currant juice. Let them 
 boil for a quarter of an hour, skim well, and add 
 four pounds of loaf sugar. Boil the jam again, 
 and keep it boiling till it will set. Carefully 
 remove the scum as it rises, or the jam will not 
 be bright and clear. Put it into jars; cover in 
 the usual way. 
 
 RASPBERRY JELLY. 
 
 Pick the stalks from some perfectly ripe and 
 freshly-gathered raspberries, and put them into 
 a stone jar. Bruise them slightly, cover the jar, 
 place it in a pan of boiling water, and keep it 
 boiling gently until the juice flows freely. Lay 
 a piece of muslin in a fine hair sieve, and keep 
 pouring off the juice till no more will flow. The 
 fruit must not be squeezed, and if the juice is at 
 all thick it should be strained through a jelly 
 bag. Measure the juice, and put it into a pre- 
 serving-pan with a pound of loaf sugar (in 
 lumps) to each pint of juice. Stir occasionally, 
 skim carefully, and boil gently until it sets when 
 a little is poured upon a plate. Put the jelly 
 into small jars, and when cold cover in the usual 
 way. Store in a dry, airy place. The flavour 
 of this jelly will be improved if one part of red 
 currant juice is used with two parts of lasp- 
 berry-juice. If the fruit is not drained quite 
 dry, it may be boiled with half its weight of 
 sugar to make common jam. Time, about one 
 hour to draw the juice ; a few minutes to boil it 
 with the sugar. Probable cost, 9d. to Is. per 
 pound. Suflicient, two quarts of raspberries 
 should yield about one pint of juice. 
 
 RASPBERRY JELLY (another way). 
 
 Take half a pound of fresh, ripe-plucked rasp- 
 berries, and put them in a basin. Add two 
 table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, crush the 
 fruit, and pour it on a fine sieve held over a 
 china bowl placed to receive the juice. Add to 
 the raspberry-juice the juice of two oranges, and 
 filter on a sieve or through a glass funnel, with 
 blotting-paper torn up into little bits and well 
 softened with water. "This method of filter- 
 ing fruit," says M. Dubois, "is the best and 
 simplest of all." Soak half an ounce of good 
 gelatine, and dissolve this in water enough to 
 three-parts fill a jelly-mould ; add three-quarters 
 of a pound of powdered sugar, and then clarify 
 2 R 
 
 the mixture with the whites of two eggs and the 
 juice of a few lemons. When the mixture be- 
 comes limpid, add the juice of the raspberries 
 and pour it immediately into a jelly-mould em- 
 bedded in pounded ice. Let it stand for three- 
 quarters of an hour, and then turn the jelly out 
 on a dish, having previously dipped the mould 
 in warm water. Jelly made with the juice of red 
 fruit, should not be allowed to remain long in a 
 tin mould, contact with which injures its 
 colour. 
 
 RASPBERRY LIQUEUR. 
 
 Put a pint of freshly-gathered ripe rasp- 
 berries into a spirit jar, with a quart of genuine 
 spirit of any kind. Cork closely, and leave it 
 for a month. Boil a pound of sugar in a pint 
 and a half of water till it is clear syrup. Filter 
 the spirit through a fine hair sieve into a basin, 
 mix it with "the syrup, and bottle for use. Tinie, 
 one month. Sufficient for two quarts of liqueur. 
 
 RASPBERRY OMELET. 
 
 Break three eggs into a basin, and add a tea- 
 spoonful of sugar and two table-spoonfuls of 
 milk or cream. Melt two ounces of butter in 
 an omelet-pan. Beat the eggs, etc. till they are 
 quite frothy, and keep on beating them, till the 
 last moment. When the butter is frothing pour 
 in the mixture, and stir quickly with a spoon, 
 scraping the bottom of the frying-pan all the 
 time till the omelet hegma to set. Draw it a 
 little from the fire, and work it into a half-moon 
 shape. Hold it before the fire in a slanting 
 position to make it rise, put a spoonful of rasp- 
 berry jam in the centre, and serve the omelet 
 immediately. If preferred, the jam may be 
 placed on one half of the omelet, and the other 
 half turned completely over it. Time, three or 
 four minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for 
 two persons. 
 
 RASPBERRY PASTE. 
 
 Mash a quart of raspberries, strain one half 
 of the fruit, and put the juice to the other half ; 
 boil them a quarter of an hour, put to them a 
 pint of red currant juice, and let them boil all 
 together till the raspberries are done enough. 
 Then put a pound and a half of double refined 
 sugar into a clean pan with as much water as 
 will dissolve it; boil it to a sugar again; then 
 put in the raspberries and juice, scald the fruit, 
 and pour them into glasses. Put them into a 
 stove to dry, and turn them when necessary. 
 
 RASPBERRY PUDDING. 
 
 Line a buttered basin with suet paste rolled 
 out to the thickness of half an inch. Fill it 
 with fresh raspberries, or with raspberries and 
 red currants mixed, and sprinkle a little sugar 
 over the top. Cover the pudding' with pastry, 
 fold the edges securely over, put the basin into 
 a floured cloth wrung out of boiling water, 
 plunge it into a saucepan with boiling water to 
 cover it, and let it boil quickly until done 
 enough. If it is necessary to add water, let it. 
 be boiling. Turn the pudding out carefully, 
 cut a small round from the top that the steam 
 may escape, and serve immediately. In winter 
 time very good puddings may be made with 
 bottled raspberries. Time to boil a moderate- 
 sized pudding, two hours to two hours and a 
 half. Probable cost. Is. to la. 6d. 
 
RA8 
 
 674 
 
 RA5 
 
 RASPBERRY PUDDING, BAKED. 
 
 Put a pint of fresh raspberries into a pie-dish, 
 and sprinkle a little sugar over them. Beat the 
 yolks of three eggs and the whites of two with a 
 quarter of a pint of milk, add a little sugar, 
 whisk the custard till it froths, and pour it over 
 the fruit. Put it into the oven immediately, 
 and bake till the custard is set. Let it get cold, 
 sift powdered sugar over, and serve. This pud- 
 ding should not be eaten hot. Time to bake, 
 half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. to Is. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 
 RASPBERRY PUDDING, RICH. 
 
 Beat a quarter of a pound of butter to a 
 cream, add a spoonful of sugar, three table- 
 spoonfuls of cream, the beaten yolks of four 
 eggs, and a table-spoonful of raspberry jam. 
 Line a shallow pie-dish with puff-paste. Pour 
 in the mixture, and bake in a well-heated oven 
 till the pastry is done enough. Probable cost. 
 Is. 3d. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 RASPBERRY SALAD. 
 
 Pick the raspberries, and exFmine each one 
 for fear any insects should be lurking in the 
 heart of the fruit. Pile them on a dish, and 
 sprinkle a little finely-powdered sugar upon 
 them. Pour over them a few spoonfuls of wine, 
 brandy, liqueur, or even plain cream, and stir 
 the salad v/hen serving it, so that an equal pro- 
 portion of sauce and sugar may be given to each 
 guest. Tlie salad will be improved if some other 
 fruit, such as white or red currants or straw- 
 berries are mixed with the raspberries. 
 RASPBERRY SAUCE. 
 
 Raspberry sauce for sweet puddings of various 
 kinds may be made in three or four ways, as 
 follows. Put equal quantities of picked rasp- 
 berries and red currants into a saucepan with a 
 small portion of sugar, and as much water as 
 will cover the bottom of the pan. Let the 
 fruit simmer gently till it breaks, then rub 
 through a sieve. Boil the juice, and serve. Or, 
 beat two eggs in a bowl; mix smoothly with 
 them a tea-spoonful of flour, half a pint of rasp- 
 berry-juice, and two table-spoonfuls of sugar. 
 ' Turn the mixture into a saucepan, and whisk 
 it over the fire until it begins to thicken. Serve 
 immediately. Or, mix half a pint of raspberry- 
 juice with half a pint of cream. Whip the mix- 
 ture till it is light and frothy, and serve at once. 
 Or, put half a pint of raspberries into an earthen 
 jar with three table-spoonfuls of cold water. Set 
 the jar in a pan of boiling water, and keep it 
 boiling till the juice flows freely. Strain it, and 
 mix it smoothly with a table-spoonful of arrow- 
 root which has been made into a paste with a 
 little cold water. Add a glassful of light wine 
 and a little sugar, and stir the mixture over the 
 fire till it is on the point of boiling. Serve im- 
 mediately. When fresh fruit cannot be ob- 
 tained for these sauces, raspberry jam boiled 
 and strained may be used instead. 
 RASPBERRY SAUCE (a Danish recipe). 
 
 Take some raspberries, put them in a cloth, 
 and wring them to express the juice; to this 
 add sugar, wine, and a little water; set the 
 mixture on the fire ; when it boils add a spoon- 
 ful of potato flour mixed with cold water, and 
 give it one boil up. 
 
 RASPBERRY SOUFFLES. 
 
 Cut six spongecakes in halves, spread a little 
 raspberry jam on gach, then arrange on a dish, 
 sift a little sugar over, and pour a glassful of 
 brandy and one of sherry on top. Whisk the 
 whites of six eggs with two ounces of castor 
 sugar until perfectly stiff, spread this on the 
 cakes, and place in the oven to set. Let them 
 cool, then put little heaps of raspberry jam on 
 top, and decorate round with whipped cream. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d., without the wme. 
 
 RASPBERRY SPONGE. 
 
 Soak three-quarters of an ounce of gelatine in 
 a little cold water for an hour. Dissolve it, and 
 mix 'with it a quarter of a pint of raspberry-juice 
 made either from jam or from the fresh fruit. 
 Add half a pint of cream, half a pint of milk, 
 the strained juice of a lemon, and as much sugar 
 as is agreeable to the palate. Whisk the mix- 
 ture in one direction until it thickens and looks 
 like sponge, pour it into a damp mould, and 
 turn it out when it is stiff. Time, half an hour 
 or more to whisk the sponge. Probable cost, 
 2s. Sufficient for a quart mould. 
 
 RASPBERRY SYRUP. 
 
 Pick some ripe juicy raspberries, bruise them 
 thoroughly, and let them stand in a cool place 
 for twenty-four hours. Strain off the juice, 
 and boil it with half a pound of loaf sugar to 
 each pint of liquid. Remove the scum as it rises, 
 and boil the syrup gently for half an hour. Let 
 it cool, and pour it into small dry bottles. Cork 
 these securely with perfectly sound corks, and 
 store for use. Time, half an hour from the 
 moment the syrup boils. Probable cost of rasp- 
 berries, 2d. to 6d. per pint. 
 
 RASPBERRY TART. 
 
 Pill a pie-dish with picked raspberries, or, if 
 preferred, with equal portions of raspberries 
 and red currants. Line the edges of the dish 
 with pastry, strew sugar over the fruit, and 
 cover it with pastry rolled out to the thickness 
 of a quarter of an inch. Ornament the edges, 
 and bake the tart till the pastry is done enough. 
 When cold sift powdered sugar over the top, and 
 serve. Raspberry tart is not very often served 
 hot. When a superior one is required, bake 
 the tart till the pastry is done enough. Take it 
 out of the oven, gently lift up the cover, and 
 pour over the fruit a rich custard made with half 
 a pint of cream which has been beaten up with 
 the yolks of two eggs. Lay the cover again on 
 the dish, and return it to the oven for five 
 minutes. Sift powdered sugar over the top, 
 and serve hot or cold. Time to bake, three- 
 quarters ot an hour for a moderate-sized tart. 
 
 RASPBERRY VINEGAR. 
 
 Raspberry vinegar diluted with water makes 
 a most refreshing drink in hot weather and in 
 cases of fever or cold. The proportions must be 
 regulated by taste. Generally it will be found 
 that a dessert-spoonful is sufficient for a tumbler- 
 ful of water. 
 
 RASPBERRY VINEGAR, TO MAKE. 
 
 Put two quarts of good white-wine vinegar 
 into a large stone jar with two quarts of picked 
 raspberries. Tie a piece of muslin over the. top,, 
 and let the jar stand for a week, stirring every 
 
w 
 
 < 
 
 o 
 
RAS 
 
 673 
 
 RAS 
 
 day. Strain the liquor through a fine sieve, and 
 with every pint put one pound of loaf sugar. Stir 
 these ingredients together, and when the sugar 
 is dissolved cover the jar. Put it into a sauce- 
 pan of boiling water, and let it boil gently for 
 an hour, carefully removing the scum as it rises. 
 When cold cork and bottle the vinegar, and seal 
 the corks. Some cooks put a glassful of brandy 
 with each pint of raspberry vinegar. A glazed 
 jar must be avoided, as it will make the contents 
 unwholesome. Time, eight days. 
 
 RASPBERRY VINEGAR (another way). 
 
 Take a quantity of very ripe raspberries, and 
 fill a wide-mouthed bottle or stone jar with as 
 many of them as will go in without pressing 
 them; take as much good vinegar as will en- 
 tirely cover them, and pour it over. Let the 
 raspberries infuse for eight days, at the end of 
 which time pour the whole on a tamis, and press 
 the fruit so as to extract all the juice ; when the 
 vinegar is perfectly clear and impregnated with 
 the fragrance of the fruit, weigh it, and for 
 every pound of liquor take a pound and three- 
 quarters of good lump sugar broken into large 
 pieces ; put it into an earthen jar, and pour the 
 vinegar over it, then cork it well, and put it 
 into the bain-marie over a very moderate fire; 
 as soon as the sugar is dissolved set it aside, 
 and when the syrup is almost cold bottle it. 
 
 RASPBERRY VINEGAR (another way). 
 
 Fill a jar with raspberries ; pour vinegar over 
 them till the jar is full. Let it stand nine days, 
 stirring it every day. Strain it off, and to every 
 pint of juice add three-quarters of a pound of 
 white sugar. Boil it as long as any scum rises, 
 and bottle off for use. 
 
 RASPBERRY VINEGAR, SUPERIOR. 
 
 Put one pound of picked raspberries into a 
 stone jar or large glass bottle, and pour over 
 them a quart of white-wine vinegar. Cover 
 them closely, and let them infuse for four days. 
 Brain off the liquor, and pour it over a pound 
 of fresh raspberries; let these infuse for four 
 days, and then repeat the process a third time. 
 When the liquor is poured off, the fruit should 
 each time be laid in a sieve covered with muslin, 
 and the juice should be allowed to drop from it 
 without pressure for several hours. A consider- 
 able quantity may thus be preserved. Put the 
 vinegar into an enamelled pan, or, failing this, 
 into a perfectly clean brass pan, and with it a 
 pound of roughly-powdered sugar to each pint 
 of vinegar. Let it boil gently for five minutes, 
 and remove the scum till it ceases to rise. 
 Leave the vinegar until the next day, put it into 
 bottles, and cork lightly. At the end of five 
 days cork closely, and seal the corks. Store in a 
 dry, cool place. When there is a garden the 
 raspberries may be gathered and thrown into 
 the vinegar as they ripen, until the requisite 
 quantity has been obtained. Infusion for an 
 additional day or two will not injure the pre- 
 paration. Time, a fortnight. Probable cost. 
 Is. per pint. 
 
 RASPBERRY WATER ICE. 
 
 Press out the juice from some fresh rasp- 
 berries, and with each pint of juice mix a 
 dessert-spoonful of strained lemon-juice, and 
 half a pound of loaf sugar boiled to a syrup with 
 
 a quarter of a pint of water. Put the prepara- 
 tion in a freezing pot, and freeze in the usual 
 way. To obtain the juice of the raspberries, 
 put a pound of fruit into a saucepan with two 
 table-spoonfuls of sugar and two table-spoonfuls 
 of water. Stir the fruit till it boils, rub it 
 through a sieve, and it will be ready for use. A 
 water-ice made with equal portions of rasp- 
 berries and red currants is superior in flavour 
 to one made with raspberries alone. 
 
 RASPBERRY WHISKEY. 
 
 Take nine quarts of ripe red raspberries, and 
 pick them nicely; boil them twenty minutes 
 with four pounds and a half of the best loaf 
 sugar, skimining frequently; strain the liquor 
 through a fine sieve, and mix it with a gallon of 
 genuine old whiskey and a quarter of a pint of 
 strained lemon-juice. Pour it into a clean 
 stone jar upon one ounce of cloves, a quarter of 
 an ounce of cinnamon, two nutmegs sliced, and 
 two ounces of sugar-candy broken small. Stir 
 these ingredients well together, put in the bung, 
 and seal the jar. Let the vessel stand six months 
 in a dry, warm cellar, then strain the liquor, 
 and filter it through fine flannel till it is per- 
 fectly clear and bright. Bottle it, seal the 
 corks, and keep it for twelve months longer that 
 the sweet taste may be lost; it will then be 
 beautifully rich. 
 
 RASPBERRY, WHOLESOMENESS OF THE. 
 
 This fruit is subacid and cooling; it allays 
 heat and thirst, and, in common with other 
 summer fruits, promotes the natural excretions. 
 Easpberry syrup is next to strawberry in dis- 
 solving the tartar of the teeth ; and as, like that 
 fruit, it does not undergo the acetous fermenta- 
 tion in the stomach, it is recommended to gouty 
 and rheumatic patients. Both preserved in the 
 form of jam, and combined with vinegar and 
 sugar, forming what is known as raspberry vine- 
 gar, the raspberry is in great estimation. " In 
 either of these forms," says Dr. Andrew, " when 
 diluted with water, it makes an agreeable bever- 
 age in febrile complaints, and is also an excel- 
 lent though expensive addition to sea-stores, as 
 an anti-scorbutic." 
 
 RASPBERRY WINE. 
 
 Pick some ripe raspberries, and bruise them 
 well with the back of a wooden spoon. Let them 
 stand for twenty-four hours, and strain the juice 
 through a flannel bag. Boil the juice, and with 
 every gallon put a pound and a half of loaf 
 sugar. When the sugar is dissolved, let the 
 liquor cool a little, and stir briskly into it the 
 whites of three or four eggs. Let all boil 
 gently for a quarter of an hour, and carefully 
 remove the froth as it rises. Let it stand till 
 cool, pour it very gently into a cask, so as not 
 to disturb the settlings, and add as much yeast 
 as will fesment it. When the fermentation be- 
 gins to decline, tie some flavouring ingredients 
 in a muslin bag, suspend this in the cask for a 
 short time, and taste the liquor frequently, so 
 that the bag may be removed as soon as the 
 wine is pleasantly flavoured. The flavouring 
 articles may either be bruised mace, ginger, 
 almonds, orris-root, or odoriferous flowers, such 
 as cowslip or mignonette. When fermentation 
 ceases, put a pint of white wine with each gallon 
 
RAS 
 
 676 
 
 RAT 
 
 of liquor, close the cask, and in three months it 
 will be ready for uae. 
 RASPBERRY WINE (another way). 
 
 Bruise fine ripe raspberries with the back of a 
 wooden spoon, put them into a stone jar, and 
 pour over them an equal quantity of cold spring 
 water. Leave them until the next day, strain 
 off the liquor, and press the fruit. Dissolve in a 
 small portion of the liquor one pound of loaf 
 sugar for each quart of wine. Stir this into the 
 rest, put the wine into a cask, and stir every 
 day. When fermentation ceases, close the cask. 
 In three months the contents will be ready 
 for use. 
 RASPBERRY WINE (another way). 
 
 Take forty-two quarts of sound ripe red rasp- 
 berries, gathered in fine weather, pick them, and 
 clear them from the stalks. Put them into a 
 tub, and pour upon them ten gallons of boiling 
 water, cover the vessel up close, and let the 
 raspberries stand until the next day. Then 
 take off the scum, press the fruit through a fine 
 sieve, and when the liquid has stood to settle 
 three or four hours, draw it off clear, and put it 
 into your cask, filter the remainder perfectly 
 clear, and add that. Stir in by degrees twenty- 
 five pounds of good moist sugar, and work it with 
 six table-spoonfuls of fresh ale yeast, mixed 
 well with two quarts of' the liquor. Put paper 
 and a tile over the bung-hole, keep the cask full, 
 and let it work over. When fermentation has 
 ceased, stop it up for a month, then rack it off 
 into a clean vessel, filter the lees well, and put 
 the wine again into the cask with an ounce of 
 dissolved isinglass and three pints of French 
 brandy. Secure the bung well, and let the wine 
 remain in a cool cellar twelve months ; you may 
 then bottle it, and, sealing the corks, keep it 
 until two years old. 
 RATAFIA. ' 
 
 This is the name given to spirituous liquor 
 when flavoured with the kernels of various fruits, 
 like peaches, apricots, and cherries. It should 
 be dropped into any preparation with great care, 
 as, though very delicious when sparingly used, 
 it is poisonous as well as moat unpleasant when 
 moderation is not exercised. Small biscuits 
 flavoured with sweet and bitter almonds are 
 named ratafias. Distilled peach or apricot 
 leaves, when cut in the spring, may be used 
 instead of ratafia for flavouring puddings. One 
 way of making ratafia is as follows. Take the 
 stones from two pounds of morella cherries, and 
 pound them well with one ounce of blanched 
 apricot kernels and a spoonful of brandy. Put 
 them into a large stone jar with a quart of fine 
 brandy, and cover closely. Let the jar remain 
 for six weeks, and shake it twice a daj|. Strain 
 the liquor through a sieve with blotting-paper 
 laid in it, and add half a pound of white sugar- 
 candy dissolved in a quarter of a pint of cold 
 water. Taste the ratafia, and if not sufficiently 
 sweet add a little more sugar-candy. Put the 
 preparation into small bottles, cork these closely, 
 and store. If apricot kernels cannot easily be 
 obtained, blanched bitter almonds may be used 
 instead. Sufficient for nearly three pints. 
 RATAFIA (another way). 
 
 Blanch and bruise the kernels of three hun- 
 dred apricots, peaches, and nectarines ; put them 
 
 into a clean stone jar with a pound of white 
 sugar-candy and half a pound of sweet and one 
 ounce of blanched bitter almonds beaten in a 
 stone mortar with orange-flower water ; pour on 
 them a gallon of French brandy; cork the jar 
 well, and seal it; let it stand in a warm room 
 two months, shaking the ratafia daily; then 
 store it for twelve months; filter it perfectly 
 clear through two or three thicknesses of muslin, 
 put into small bottles, cork and seal. 
 RATAFIA, APRICOT. 
 
 Eatafia of apricots is prepared in two ways— 
 namely, either by boiling the apricots in white 
 wine, adding to the liquor an equal quantity of 
 brandy, witn sugar, cinnamon, mace, and the 
 kernels of apricots, infusing the whole for eight 
 or ten days, then straining the liquor, and put- 
 ting it up for use ; or by infusing the apricots, 
 cut in pieces, in brandy for a day or two, pass- 
 ing it through a straining bag, and then putting 
 in the usual ingredients. 
 RATAFIA BISCUITS. 
 
 Blanch and pound together to a smooth paste 
 three ounces of sweet almonds and two ounces of 
 bitter almonds, and add, whilst pounding, a des- 
 sert-spoonful of brandy and the whites of two 
 eggs beaten to a firm froth ; stir in half a pound 
 of loaf sugar powdered and sifted, and beat the 
 mixture till it is a firm smooth paste. Bake one 
 or two little cakes to test the lightness of the 
 paste, and if they are heavy add gradually the 
 whites of one or two additional eggs. Lay the 
 mixture on writing-paper in rounds the size of a 
 halfpenny, and bake these on tins in a moderate 
 oven till they are lightly browned. Tate them 
 from the paper as soon as cold. Some cooks add 
 a spoonful of flour to the above preparation. 
 Or, blanch and pound together to a smooth paste 
 two ounces of sweet Jordan almonds and three- 
 quarters of an ounce of bitter almonds. Add 
 gradually the whites of two eggs beaten to a 
 firm froth, half a pound of loaf sugar powdered 
 and sifted, and half a tea-spoonful of orange- 
 flower water; beat the mixture till it is a firm 
 paste. Test the ratafias, beat in addition two 
 whites of eggs if required, and bake as before m 
 a moderate oven. Time to bake, twelve to fif- 
 teen minutes. Probable cost. Is. 6d. per pound. 
 RATAFIA, BLACKBERRY. 
 
 Take twenty pounds of blackberries, and mash 
 them with the juice of twenty oranges and ten 
 lemons. Poun^ in a mortar half a pound ot 
 bitter almonds, half an ounce of nutmeg, two 
 pods of vanilla, an ounce of coriander-seeds, and 
 four sticks of Jamaica pepper. Put these into the 
 mash-pan with the fruit and a quart of syrup. 
 Let the mass be put into a large well-corked 
 stone bottle, and stand it near the fire for a 
 fortnight. At the end of that time strain off the 
 liquor, and to each quart add one of French 
 brandy. Let it stand another fortnight. Then 
 make it clear by running it as often as neces- 
 sary through a jelly-bag, and bottle for use. 
 RATAFIA, BLACK CURRANT. 
 
 Take twelve pounds of black currants, and 
 mash them in a deep earthen pan. Pound in a 
 mortar half an ounce of cinnamon, three pods 
 of vanilla cut into bits, an ounce of cardamom- 
 seeds, four sticks of Jamaica pepper, two blades 
 
RAT 
 
 677 
 
 RAT 
 
 of mace, a quarter of a pound of bitter almonds, 
 and six apricot kernels. Add these ingfredients 
 to the fruit, together with a quart of syrup. 
 Put the whole into a large stone bottle, and let 
 it stand during a fortnight near the Are. Then 
 strain out all the juice through a linen bag, 
 pressing it well out, and with each quart of the 
 juice mix a quart of the best French brandy. 
 Let it stand another fortnight in the same place. 
 Then run it through a jelly-bag until it is clear, 
 and bottle for use. 
 
 RATAFIA CAKE. 
 
 Blanch and pound together to a smooth paste 
 six ounces of sweet almonds and two ounces of 
 bitter almonds. Add the whites of two eggs 
 beaten to a solid froth, and beat in very gradu- 
 ally, half a pound of loaf sugar powdered and 
 sifted, half a tea-spoonful of grated lemon-rind, 
 and the yolks of eight eggs. Beat the mixture 
 thoroughly. Add two ounces of fine flour, and 
 the remaining whites of the eggs whisked to a 
 firm froth. Butter a mould, half fill it with 
 the mixture, arid bake the cake in a slow oven. 
 Let it stand a few minutes, shake it to loosen 
 it, take it out carefully, and set it upon a 
 reversed sieve till cold. Time to bake, about 
 three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 
 RATAFIA CHEESE-CAKES. 
 
 Boil a pint of milk till lukewarm. Sweeten 
 and flavour it with a dessert-spoonful of sugar 
 and two table-spoonfuls of brandy, then stir 
 into it a" table-spoonful of rennet. Let it stand 
 in a cool place till it is turned to a curd. Beat 
 it well, draw, off the whey, and stir into it three- 
 qu^ters of an ounce of powdered ratafia bis- 
 cuits, one oiince of dissolved butter, and two 
 well-beaten eggs. Line some patty-pans with 
 good puff-paste, pour a spoonful of the mixture 
 into each, dnd bake the cheesecakes in a well- 
 heated oven. Time to bake, about a quarter of 
 an hour. Probable cost, IJd. each. 
 
 RATAFIA, CHERRY (a Danish recipe). 
 
 Bruise two pounds of black cherries, so that 
 all the kernels may be broken ; add a quarter of 
 an ounce of bitter almonds or peach kernels, half 
 an ounce of cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of 
 pounded cloves, and one pound of white sugar 
 to the cherries, also half a pint of brandy and a 
 quart of old white wine. Let these remain a 
 few days to infuse, stirring frequently; then 
 filter the liqueur and bottle it. 
 
 RATAFIA, COMMON. 
 
 Blanch four ounces of bitter almonds, and 
 chop them very small. Throw them into a 
 mortar with half a grain of ambergris, three 
 ounces of sugar, and half an ounce of grated 
 nutmeg; then pound all thoroughly together. 
 Put the mixture into a stone jar, pour a quart 
 of good spirit over it, cover closely, and let it 
 remain in a warm place for a fortnight. Filter 
 through a strainer lined with blotting-paper, 
 put the ratafia into small bottles, cork these 
 securely, and store for use. Sufiicient for one 
 quart of ratafia. 
 RATAFIA CREAM. 
 
 Boil three or four laurel, nectarine, or peach- 
 leaves in a cupful of cream for three or four 
 minutes. Strain this, and mix with it a pint of 
 thick cream, add the yolks of three eggs well 
 
 beaten, and stir the mixture over a gentle fire 
 till it begins to thicken. Pour it out, let it get 
 cold, and before serving sprinkle some "hun- 
 dreds and thousands " over it. If preferred, milk 
 may be used instead of cream. Or rasp the rind 
 of a lemon and a Seville orange, or, if preferred, 
 two lemons, upon two ounces of sugar. Put this 
 into a bowl, and strain the juice of the fruit 
 upon it. When the sugar is dissolved add a pint 
 of thick cream, a quarter of a pint of ratafia or 
 uoyeau, and a quarter of a pint of light wine. 
 Whisk the mixture thoroughly, and serve in 
 glasses. 
 
 RATAFIA CREAM, ICED. 
 
 Blanch two ounces of bitter almonds, and- 
 pound them to a smooth paste with a tea-spoon- 
 ful of rose-water, or water, to prevent them 
 oiling. Add gradually a table-spoonful of 
 powdered loaf Bugar, mix the paste with a 
 quarter of a pint of cream, and stir over a gentle 
 fire till pleasantly flavoured. Add another pint 
 of cream, strain the mixture through a jelly- 
 bag, and freeze in the usual way. Kme to boil 
 the cream with the almonds, ten minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, 2s. 4d. Sufiicient for a little more 
 than a pint of ice-cream. 
 RATAFIA CREAM, MOULDED. 
 
 Basp the rind of a lemon and a Seville orange, 
 or of two lemons, with four or five good-sized 
 lumps of sugar. Put these into a basin, strain 
 the juice upon them, and stir and crush them 
 till dissolved. Add a pint of thick cream, a 
 quarter of a pint of ratafia, and a quarter of a 
 pint of light wine, or, if preferred, a quarter of 
 a pint of sherry, and the eighth of a pint of 
 brandy, and mix all thoroughly. Dissolve an 
 ounce of isinglass or gelatine in a cupful of milk, 
 stir this into the cream, and whisk well. Cover 
 the inside of an earthenware mould with muslin 
 wrung out of cold water. Arrange upon this 
 some ratafia biscuits which have been dipped in 
 cream, pour the mixture in carefully, and let it 
 stand in a cold place till set. Turn it out, and 
 serve. 
 RATAFIA, CURA90A. 
 
 Infuse one ounce of the zest or peel of bitter 
 almonds cut as thin as possible, a pound and a 
 half of sugar, and a little pinch of Brazil-wood 
 in two quarts of good brandy. At the end of 
 two days filter it, and put it into bottles. 
 RATAFIA D'ANGELIQUE. 
 
 Take a salt-spoonful of angelica-seeds, four 
 ounces of angelica stalks, one ounce of blanched 
 bitter almonds bruised, and six quarts of brandy 
 or proof spirit. Digest for ten days, then filter. 
 Add a quart of water and three pounds and a 
 half of white sugar. Mix well, and after a fort- 
 night decant the clear portion through a piece 
 of clean flannel. 
 
 RATAFIA, GOOSEBERRY. 
 
 Take five quarts of the finest sound ripe goose- 
 berries, a salt-spoonful of cinnamon, the same of 
 mace, six pounds of pounded lump sugar, and a 
 quarter of a pound of bitter almonds. Place 
 these in two gallons of French brandy. Stop it 
 well, and let it infuse during three months. 
 Then press out the gooseberries, and filter the 
 whole through filtering-paper. Store in pint 
 bottles. 
 
RAT 
 
 678 
 
 RAT 
 
 RATAFIA ICE-CREAM. 
 
 Beat, the yolk of an egg, and stir into it half 
 a pint of cream and halt a cupful of new milk. 
 Sweeten, and put the liquid into a saucepan over 
 a gentle fire with an ounce of ratafias. Stir until 
 it begins to thicken, pour it out, and when cool 
 add the strained juice of half a lemon. Freeze 
 the preparation in the usual way, and when it is 
 set, add a glassful of noyeau, maraschino, or 
 Cura9oa, and another ounce of crushed ratafias. 
 Time, about ten minutes to thicken the custard. 
 Probable coat. Is. 3d. Sufficient for one pint 
 of ice-cream. 
 
 RATAFIA, ICED. 
 
 Soak an ounce of gelatine in a little water for 
 half an hour. Beat the yolks of three eggs with 
 half a pint of milk; add th'e grated rind of a 
 lemon or of a Seville orange, four ounces of 
 ratafias, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and a 
 glassful of brandy. Stir the mixture over the 
 fire till it thickens, rub it through a fine sieve, 
 and mix with it the gelatine dissolved in milk, 
 and two or three ounces of candied fruit cut into 
 thin slices. Add a quarter of a pint of thick 
 cream, and beat the mixture thoroughly. Put 
 it in a damp mould, set it on ice, and when set 
 turn it out carefully. Time to thicken the 
 custard, ten to fifteen minutes. Sufficient for 
 rather less than a quart. Probable' cost, 2s. 
 
 RATAFIA, NOYEAU. 
 
 Put into a large jar six ounces of apricot 
 kernels cut into small pieces, with three quarts 
 of brandy; let them infuse for three weeks, 
 shaking or stirring them from time to time. 
 Tal^e out the kernels; dissolve a pound and 
 three-quarters of sugar in a pint of water ; mix 
 all together, filter, and bottle it. 
 
 RATAFIA, ORANGE-FLOWER. 
 
 For each quart of brandy take three ounces of 
 picked orange-flowers and half a pound of fine 
 pounded sugar; put into a jar a layer of sugar 
 and a layer of flowers alternately, let the last 
 be sugar, covering the final layer of fiowers well 
 and more thickly than the others ; cover the jar 
 close ; let it stand to infuse for twelve hours, 
 but not longer, in the cellar ; at the end of that 
 time, pour the brandy Over, and filter, then 
 bottle the ratafia. 
 
 RATAFIA PUDDING, BAKED. 
 
 Slice four penny spongecakes, lay them in a 
 buttered dish, pour a glassful of sherry over 
 them, and let them soak for a little while. 
 Spread a large spoonful of good jam upon them, 
 and pour over thgm half a pint of good custard 
 flavoured with almonds. Let the pudding stand 
 for half an hour, cover the top with ratafia bis- 
 cuits, and pour another half-pint of custard 
 oyer those. Bake in a moderate oven. The 
 custard may be made with three-quarters of a 
 pint of milk, the yolks of four eggs and the 
 white of one, two ounces of almonds blanched 
 and pounded, and a table-spoonful of sugar. 
 Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 
 exclusive of the wine. Is. 6d. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. 
 
 RATAFIA PUDDING, BAKED (another way). 
 
 Crush four ounces of ratafias to powder. Mix 
 with them two ounces of sweet almonds blanched 
 
 and pounded, a pint of cream, the yolks of six 
 and the whites of two eggs, a table-spoonful of 
 sugar, and a glassful of brandy or sherry. Line 
 a dish with pufi-paste, pour in the mixture, and 
 bake in a well-heated oven. Serve hot or cold. 
 Time to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. 
 Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, 3s, 
 
 RATAFIA PUboiNG, BOILED. 
 
 Boil the thin rind of a lemon and an inch of 
 stick cinnamon in three-quarters of a pint of 
 mflk till it is pleasantly flavoured. Sweeten it, 
 pour it over a quarter of a pound of grated 
 bread-crumbs, and let it cool. Add the yolks of 
 four eggs, the whites of two, and, if it is at 
 hand, a table-spoonful of ratafia, or two oy three 
 drops of the flavouring, and beat the mixture 
 well. Butter a plain mould thickly, lay round 
 it even rows of ratafias or of sweet almonds 
 blanched and sliced, pour the pudding in gently, 
 cover with a round of buttered writing-paper, 
 tie it up, and steam over boiling water. Turn 
 the pudding out gently, and send arrowroot 
 sauce, flavoured with ratafia, to table with it. 
 Time to steam, rather less than one hour. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. Sufficient for three or four persona. 
 
 RATAFIA PUDDING, BOILED (another way). 
 
 Butter a plain round mould thickly, and 
 ornament the inside with even rows of dried 
 cherries. Pour a pint of cream or milk over four 
 penny sponge biscuits and eight ounces of 
 crushed ratafias. Beat the mixture well, add 
 the yolks of six eggs, two table-spoonfuls of 
 sugar, and a glassful of brandy. Lay a round, 
 of buttered paper on the top of the mould, tie 
 it up, and boil or steam the pudding. Serve 
 with arrowroot or wine sauce. Time to steam, 
 one hour. Probable cost, if made with milk, 
 2s. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 RATAFIA PUDDINGS. 
 
 Blanch and pound to a smooth paste four 
 ounces of sweet almonds and three or four bitter 
 ones. Add a few drops of water to prevent oil- 
 ing. Mix with the paste a table-spoonful of 
 sugar, two ounces of fresh butter which has been 
 dissolved in a quarter of a pint of hot milk or 
 cream, a table-spoonful of brandy, and two well- 
 beaten eggs. Butter some small cups, half fill 
 them with the mixture, and bake in a well- 
 heated oven. When done enough, turn the pud- 
 dings out carefully, sift white sugar thickly over 
 them, and serve with wine sauce. Time to bake, 
 fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, ex- 
 clusive of the brandy, lOd., if made with milk. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 RATAFIA, QUINCE. 
 
 Grate ripe quinces till you come to the core, 
 but be careful that there are no pips; let the 
 mass remain for three days in an earthen pan ; 
 squeeze it to extract all the juice, measure this 
 and add to it an equal quantity of brandy; 
 allow six ounces of sugar to each quart of the 
 mixture, with some cinnamon and cloves to 
 taste : let it infuse for two months, then filter 
 it, and pour it into bottles. This liqueur when 
 old is excellent. 
 
 RATAFIA, RASPBERRY. 
 
 Dissolve first two pounds of sugar in a pound 
 and a quarter of raspberry juice and a quarter of 
 
RAT 
 
 679 
 
 RAV 
 
 a pound of cherry-juice, then add four quarts of 
 brandy. Let the liquor stand, and when it is 
 quite clear bottle it. 
 
 RATAFIA, RED. 
 
 A. fortnight before the ratafia is to be made 
 infuse some bruised cloves in brandy, and use 
 this for flavouring. A drachm will be sufficient 
 for a quart. Put a quarter of a pound of small 
 black cherries, sometimes called brandy cherries, 
 into a large bowl with a quarter of a pound of 
 raspberries, a quarter of a pound of strawberries, 
 and a pound and a half of black-heart cherries. 
 Bruise the fruit well, let it stand twenty-four 
 hours, and drain off the juice. Measure the 
 juice, and with each pint put a quarter of a 
 pound of loaf sugar boiled to a clear syrup with 
 two table-spoonfuls of water and a quart of 
 flavoured brandy. Filter the liqueur through a 
 jelly-bag, put it into .small bottles, and store for 
 use. 
 RATAFIA, RED (another way). 
 
 Mash together in a tub, or pan, three pounds 
 of black cherries, two of ripe red gooseberries, 
 and one of raspberries. Mix with these twenty- 
 four cherry-kernels previously pounded in a 
 mortar with a pint of sjrrup ; put all into a jar, 
 stop it close, and keep it for twelve hours in a 
 heat of about ninety degrees, Fahrenheit; then 
 press it through a clean napkin, let it stand 
 twelve hours longer, when add to each quart 
 of juice a pint of good brandy ; next day, strain 
 it through a flannel bag till it is quite clear. 
 RATAFIA, ROSE. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of roses from which 
 all the green has been picked, pour a pint of 
 warm water over them, let them stand two days ; 
 strain them through linen, squeeze them to ex- 
 tract all the liquor; take as much brandy as 
 you have decoction of roses, add half a pound of 
 sugar to each quart, flavour it with a little 
 coriander and cinnamon; let it remain fifteen 
 days, then filter and bottle it. 
 
 RATAFIA SAUCE, FOR SWEET PUDDINGS. 
 
 Moisten a dessert-spoonful of arrowroot with 
 a spoonful of cold water, and rub it till smooth. 
 Pour over it — stirring all the time — a quarter of 
 a pint of boiling water. Add a table-spoonful 
 of ratafia liqueur and sugar to taste. Boil a 
 minute or two, and serve. Time, ten minutes. 
 Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for six or eight 
 persons. 
 RATAFIA, STRONG. 
 
 Take two ounces of apricot and peach kernels, 
 blanch them, and put them into a quart bottle 
 with half an ounce of cloves, and a bit of cin- 
 namon; fill up the bottle with French brandy. 
 Cork the bottle well, seal it, and put it in the 
 sun on fine days; in two mouths, add to the 
 preparation three ounces of white sugar-candy 
 dissolved in a pint of cold water. Then strain 
 off, filter through paper, and bottle for use. 
 RAVIGOTE BUTTER, FOR SAUCES. 
 
 Take two large table-spoonfuls of mixed tarra- 
 gon, chervil, burnet, chives, and cress. Pick 
 and wash them, and throw them into boiling 
 Water for two minutes ; press the water from 
 them in a cloth, put them on a plate, and mix 
 with them a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, 
 half a spoonful of chilli vinegar, and a. little 
 
 pepper and salt.. , When these ingredients ar.© 
 thoroughly blended, turn the whole into a basin, 
 and put it in a, cool place till wanted. If all 
 these herbs cannot be procured, good ravigote 
 butter may be made with tarragon and chervil 
 only. 
 
 RAVIGOTE SAUCE, FOR HARE AND VENISON. 
 
 Melt two ounces of butter in a saucepan, and 
 throw into it a moderate-sized onion and carrot 
 chopped small, a tea-spoonful of scraped horse- 
 radish, a pinch of powdered thyme, a bay-leaf, 
 and a little mace. Stir these ingredients over a 
 gentle fire till the onion is tender. Pour in a 
 table-spoonful of vinegar and half a pint of 
 stock, add a little brown thickening, and skim 
 the sauce well. When it is smooth and of the 
 consistency of custard, dissolve a table-spoonful 
 of red currant jelly in it, rub it through a fine 
 sieve, add pepper and salt if required, and serve 
 in a tureen. Time, a few minutes to boil the 
 sauce. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for six 
 or eight persons. 
 
 RAVIGOTE SAUCE, FOR MEAT AND POULTRY 
 OF VARIOUS RINDS. 
 
 Work an ounce of flour smoothly into two 
 ounces of butter. Add the strained juice of half 
 a lemon, a dessert-spoonful of chopped parsley 
 and a little pepper and salt. Put the paste into 
 a, saucepan with a quarter of a pint of milk or 
 cream, and stir until it is on the point of boiling. 
 Have ready in a separate saucepan a table- 
 spoonful of tarragon vinegar, a table-spoonful 
 of chilli vinegar, a table-spoonful of Worces- 
 ter sauce, and a table-spoonful of the essence 
 of anchovies. Boil this mixture for three or 
 four minutes, add it to the sauce, which should 
 have been slightly cooled, and serve. Time, 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. 
 RAVIGOTE SAUCE, GREEN, FOR SALADS, ETC. 
 
 Make a quarter of a pint of good white sauce 
 or melted butter, stir into it two table-spoonfuls 
 of ravigote butter (see Ravigote Btjttbe), and 
 when this is well mixed in add a tea-spoonful of 
 tarragon vinegar and a few drops of anchovy. 
 If the ravigote butter or the herbs necessary for 
 making it are not at hand, take six table-spoon- 
 fuls of good white sauce made with cream or 
 milk, add a tea-spoonful of chilli vinegar, a tea- 
 spoonful of Beading or Worcester sauce, a tea- 
 spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and a little salt 
 and pepper. Pick, scald, and mince a table- 
 spoonful of green parsley-leaves, stir them into 
 the sauce, and serve. 
 RAVIGOTE SAUCE, GREEN Canother way). 
 
 (See Green Ravioote Sauce.) 
 
 RAVIOLI, ITALIAN. 
 
 Make a little firm smooth paste (see the next 
 recipe). Roll it out as thin as thick paper, and 
 sprinkle it with as little flour as possible. Make 
 a forcemeat of fowl, veal, or fish, or take a 
 godiveau; lay it in little heaps at equal dis- 
 tances on half the paste, and cover with the 
 other half. With the fingers press the paste 
 down between the 'little piles of forcemeat to 
 make it adhere, then cut the whole into squares. 
 Put these side by side in a dish, and boil them 
 in bouillon for five minutes. Serve with grated 
 cheese in a plate. 
 
RAV 
 
 680 
 
 REO 
 
 RAVIOLI, ITALIAN (another way). 
 
 Make some nicely-flavoured forcemeat as fol- 
 lows. Take two ounces of the flesh of roast 
 chicken or game, weighed after it has been freed 
 from skin and sinew. Mince it finely, and mix 
 with it a table-spoonful of borage which has 
 been scalded, pounded, and passed through a 
 sieve; failing this, use a, table-spoonful of 
 spinach, greening. Add an ounce of pounded 
 ham, four cleaned and pounded anchovies, a 
 shallot, three hard and two raw yolks of eggs, a 
 table-spoonful of grated Parmesan, and a little 
 pepper and grated nutmeg. Mix the ingredi- 
 ents thoroughly. Roll out half a pound of fine 
 paste as thin as possible, cut it into rounds two 
 inches in diameter with a fluted cutter, moisten 
 the edges with water, and lay a small ball of the 
 forcemeat upon each round. Fold the pastry 
 over the forcemeat, and pinch it tightly to- 
 gether. Let the ravioli dry for a short time. 
 Butter a saucepan, lay them in it, pour a little 
 boiling stock over them, and let them simmer 
 until the pastry is done enough. Drain them, 
 lay tHem on a dish, sprinkle a little grated Par- 
 mesan over, and lay little pieces of butter here 
 and there upon them. Put them in a brisk oven 
 for a quarter of an hour, pour a little good gravy 
 round them, and serve very hot. To make the 
 nouilles paste put half a pound of flour on a 
 pastry-board, make a hole in the centre, break 
 two eggs into it, add half an ounce of butter and 
 a pinch of salt, and mix all together to a smooth, 
 firm paste; it is then ready for use. Time to 
 simmer the ravioli, five minutes. 
 
 RAVIOLI SOUP. 
 
 Prepare and poach the ravioli aB in the last 
 recipe. Drain them, and put them into a soup 
 tureen. Pour over them two quarts of good 
 strong veal or game stock, add a glassful of 
 Madeira, and serve very hot. Send a plateful 
 of grated Parmesan to table with the soup. 
 Time, five minutes to poach the ravioli. Suf- 
 ficient for ten or twelve persons. 
 
 RAYLEIGH TOAST. 
 
 Chop a small onion and fry it brown; add a 
 seasoning of mixed herbs, salt, and pepper, 'a 
 tea-spoonful of grated cocoa-nut, the same of 
 curry-paste, a table-spoonful of sherry, and one 
 of stock. Let these boil, stirring constantly, and 
 adding a little more stock as required ; the mix- 
 ture should just drop from the spoon easily. 
 Then put in four ounces of cooked rabbit, four 
 ounces of cooked ham and tongue mixed, and a 
 hard-boiled egg, all chopped very small. Re- 
 heat, and serve on rounds of bread, fried, and 
 cut into triangles. 
 
 RAY OR MAIDS. 
 
 This flsh is of the same genus as the skate or 
 thornback. It may be boiled or fried. It should 
 be hung for at least a day before it is cooked, 
 and the wings should be cut into strips, and kept 
 in salt and water for two or three days before 
 they are used. The cooked flsh is very good 
 eaten cold with salad sauce. It is at its best 
 from September to February. 
 
 RAY SOUP. 
 
 Boil a pound of ray in a quart of fish stock. 
 When it is tender and broken to pieces, strain 
 the liquor through a sieve. Put it back into the 
 
 saucepan, and let it boil again. Drop into it a 
 spoonful of vermicelli, and when this is tender 
 draw the saucepan from the fire for a minute, 
 stir into the soup a quarter of a pint of cream 
 which has been beaten up with the yolk of an 
 egg, and let it simmer a few minutes longer, but 
 ou no account let it boil after the egg is added. 
 Heat a French roll in the oven, soak it in a 
 little of the soup until it is moist throughout, 
 put it into the tureen, pour the soup over it, and 
 serve. The ray is a fish which is very suitable 
 for making soup, as its bones are delicate, and 
 soon dissolve. Time, a few minutes to boil flsh. 
 
 READING CAKE. 
 
 Ingredients required are : One pound of castor 
 sugar, one and a half pounds sieved flour (if 
 dried in the oven beforehand, so much the 
 better), one pound of butter (or half butter 
 and half pork dripping may be used), one 
 pound of currants, one pound of sultanas, six 
 eggs, half a pound of mixed peel, a quarter 
 of a pound of blanched almonds, and the grated 
 rind of one lemon. Beat the butter and sugar 
 to a cream. These may be set in a, bowl near 
 the fire to soften, but must not be allowed to 
 become oily before beating. Add one by one 
 the eggs, well beaten, then gradually sift in 
 the flour, and finally the other ingredients. 
 After well stirring, pour the mixture into tins 
 previously lined with buttered paper, but only 
 pour in sufficient mixture to reach three inches 
 up the tins. Blanch the almonds by putting 
 them in a pan of cold water and bringing to 
 ths boil, then cover with cold water to keep 
 the colour. Remove the skins, split each one, 
 and sprinkle over the cake. Bake in a moder- 
 ate oven for three-quarters of an hour, unless 
 tius are large, when allow a quarter of an 
 hour longer. 
 
 READING SAUCE. 
 
 Take two large earthen jars. Put into one an 
 ounce and a half of bruised shallots and two 
 pints and a half of walnut pickle, set this in a 
 fentlo oven, and let it boil until the liquor is 
 reduced to two pints. Put into the other jar a 
 quart of water, three-quarters of a pint of Indian 
 soy, a pounded anchovy, half an ounce of pep- 
 per, half an ounce of ginger, and one ounce of 
 mustard-seed, all bruised; add also half an 
 ounce of cayenne. Set this jar in the oven, and 
 let it boil for an hour. Pour the contents of one 
 jar into the other, stir the mixture well together, 
 and let it boil for half an hour. Cover closely, 
 and let it stand in a cool place until the next 
 day. Put into the sauce a quarter of an ounce 
 of dried bay-leaves, and leave it for a, week. 
 Strain through a jelly-bag, put the liquor into 
 small bottles, cork these tightly, and store for 
 use. Time, nine days. Sufficient for two quarts 
 of sauce. 
 
 RECORD CAKES. 
 
 Beat together to a cream a quarter of a pound 
 of butter and three-quarters of a pound of 
 sugar; sift one pound of flour and one and a 
 half tea-sj)oonfuls of baking-powder; beat the 
 yolks of eight eggs into the butter and sugar 
 with a wooden spoon ; whisk the whites to a stiff 
 froth and stir gently in : stir in the flour and 
 baking-powder quickly and lightly ; add a gill of 
 
REC 
 
 681 
 
 RED 
 
 cream flavoured with rose-water, stirring it into 
 the flour, etc. Take three ounces of pistachio ker- 
 nels and two ounces of crystallised cherries, chop 
 them, and mix them with the other ingredients. 
 Have ready some buttered patty-tins, place a 
 spoonful of the mixture in each, and bake ten 
 or fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 2s. for this 
 quantity. 
 
 RECRUITS' PUDDING. 
 
 Pound two ounces of sweet almonds to a 
 smooth paste, and add as much new milk as will 
 make a thick batter. Shred finely a pound of 
 suet, and mix with it a pound of finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs. Add the almond milk, a pinch 
 of salt, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, the well- 
 whisked yolks of five eggs, the white of one egg, 
 and a table-spoonful of brandy. Tie the mix- 
 ture in a floured cloth, and boil it, or, if pre- 
 ferred, put the pudding into a buttered dish, and 
 bake it until done enough. Time, two hours and 
 a half to three hours. Probable cost, 2s. Suf- 
 ficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 RED BEET. 
 
 The roots of the red beet are boiled and sliced, 
 and eaten cold, either alone or in salads ; they 
 are also much used as a pickle, and form a most 
 beautiful garnish. Sometimes, after being dried 
 in thin sbces in an oven, they are employed in 
 confectionery, and dried and ground they are 
 occasionally turned to account as " a supple- 
 ment to coffee." {See also Bekteoot.) 
 
 RED BEET, VARIETIES OF. 
 
 These, according to Loudon, are numerous, 
 but the principal are : — large-rooted ; long- 
 rooted; dwarf, one of the best; turnip-rooted, 
 an early variety; small red; Castelnaudari, 
 much esteemed in France, and said to have the 
 flavour of a nut ; and green-topped, much grown 
 in Scotland. 
 
 RED CABBAGE. 
 
 In form the red or purple cabbage resembles 
 the white ; it has, however, a brownish-red or 
 purple colour. It is chiefly employed for pick- 
 ling, and the dwarf red variety certainly makes 
 one of the most beautiful pickles that can be 
 presented at table. Both the dwarf and large 
 kinds are in winter sometimes shredded down in 
 • salads, like beetroot. In Germany, sauer kraut 
 is prepared from all or any of the varieties. 
 RED CABBAGE, STEWED. 
 
 (See Cabbage, Red, Stewed.) 
 
 RED CHAMPAGNE, BRITISH. 
 
 Take forty quarts of ripe green gooseberries, 
 crush them in a tub, pour on them ten gallons 
 of soft water that has been well boiled and be- 
 come cold, add three pounds of sliced beetroots 
 that have been boiled, without breaking their 
 sMns, for twenty minutes, stir well ten minutes, 
 and leave, covered up, to steep four days, stir- 
 ring well three times daily. Strain the liquor, 
 and filter it through a flannel bag into a cask ; 
 add thirty pounds of best loaf sugar in small 
 lumps, two ounces of best ginger bruised, the 
 thin rinds of four lemons, and an ounce of best 
 isinglass dissolved in a quart of the liquor. 
 Leave the bung out till the fermentation has 
 ceased, then add a quart of brandy, put in the 
 bung, and secure it with paper and sand. Keep 
 
 the wine in a cool cellar twelve months, then put 
 it into champagne bottles, wire the corks, and 
 seal them. It will be in high perfection in six 
 months more, and is exceedingly fine. 
 
 RED CORDIAL WATER. 
 
 Take three or four thick slices of purple beet- 
 root boiled, one ounce each of caraway- and 
 coriander-seed bruised, one ounce of cloves and 
 cinnamon, three-quarters of an ounce each of 
 Jamaica pepper and nutmeg bruised, half an 
 ounce of thin rind of lemon, twelve ounces of 
 sugar-candy beaten and rolled, two quarts of 
 proof spirit of wine, and three pints of water 
 Put these ingredients into a stone jar, and 
 fasten the cork securely ; tie bladder over it, and 
 set the jar in hot water for six hours. Shake it 
 ^well daily, and keep it for a month in a warm 
 room. Then strain and filter the cordial perfectly 
 bright; fill small bottles, cork and seal them. 
 
 RED CURRANT. 
 
 This fruit is acceptable at the dessert, being 
 of a pleasant acid taste. It is much used for 
 jellies, jams, and wines. Forsyth says it is the 
 most agreeable of all the small fruits, either for 
 the table or the kitchen ; and that it continues 
 longer in succession than any other. According 
 to Withering, the juice gives an agreeable acid 
 to punch; and Professor Martyn says it was a 
 common beverage in Paris in 1763. Its medi- 
 cinal qualities are similar to those of other sub- 
 acid fruits, allaying thirst, lessening an over- 
 secretion of the bile, and correcting a putrid 
 and scorbutic state of the fluids. The red cur- 
 rant is a native of the northern parts of Europe, 
 and is found in hedges and woods in England. 
 The berries of this shrub in its wild state are red ; 
 cultivation has produced white and pale-red 
 berried varieties. Professor Martyn observes 
 that " the currant does not seem to have been 
 known to the ancient Greeks and Eomans, as 
 the Southern nations of Europe have not even 
 an appropriate name to it at this day. The 
 old French name Groseilles d'outre mer proclaims 
 their having been strangers imported. Our 
 English name of currant is evidently from the 
 similitude of the fruit to that of the Uva corin- 
 thica, the small grape of Zante, or the common 
 grocers' corinths or currants." 
 RED CURRANT AND RASPBERRY PUDDING. 
 
 Pick and wash one pound of red currants, and 
 take the stalks oS a quarter of a pound of rasp- 
 berries. Make a paste as directed in Cbust, 
 Butter, fob Boiled Puddings, and line a pud- 
 ding-basin with it. Fill up the basin with the 
 fruit, mixed with four ounces of moist sugar, 
 cover with paste, and pinch the edges together 
 neatly. Tie down the pudding in a floured 
 cloth, plunge it into boiling water, aijd be care- 
 ful that the water does not go off the boil until 
 the pudding is cooked, which will be in about 
 two and a half hours. Turn it out carefully on 
 to a hot dish, and serve cream and sifted sugar 
 with it. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 RED CURRANT AND RASPBERRY TART. 
 
 Pick and wash one pound of red currants, 
 remove the stalks from a quarter of a pound of 
 raspberries, and put the fruit with four ounces 
 of sugar into a pie-dish, mixing them well, and 
 building them into a cone shape. Add a table- 
 
RED 
 
 682 
 
 RED 
 
 spoonful of water. Make a crust as directed in 
 Cbitst foe Fbuit Tabts, roll it out, cut a strip 
 an inch wide, and lay this round the dish; roll 
 out the cover, put it on, and ornament the edges 
 neatly. Bake in a moderate oven, covering the 
 top with a buttered paper if it seems inclined 
 to take too much colour. When cooked, sift a 
 little sugar over the top, and send cream and 
 sifted sugar to the table with it. Probable cost. 
 Is. 6d. 
 
 RED CURRANT JAM. 
 
 {See CuBEANT Jam, Red and White.) 
 RED CURRANT JELLY. 
 
 {See CuBBANT Jelly, Red.) 
 
 RED CURRANTS AND RASPBERRIES, COMPOTE 
 OF. 
 
 Boil together four ounces of sugar and a 
 quarter of a pint of water for ten miniites. Wash 
 and pick one pound of red currants, and remove 
 the stalks from a quarter of a pound of rasp- 
 berries. Put the fruit into the syrup, and let it 
 simmer very gently for about fifteen minutes or 
 until cooked. Let it cool a little, then turn it 
 into a silver or glass dish, and set it aside until 
 quite cold. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 RED CURRANT SAUCE. 
 
 Put two tea-spoonfuls of re4 currant jelly into 
 a small stewpan, with half a dozen cloves, a 
 small stick of cinnamon, and the rind of an 
 orange. Moisten with a little claret, strain off 
 the liquor, and add the juice of the orange. 
 
 RED CURRANT SOLID. 
 
 Dissolve half a pound of red currant jelly in a 
 pint of cream, and add a little sugar if neces- 
 sary. Stir in three-quarters of an ounce of isin- 
 glass which has oeen dissolved in a quarter of a 
 pint of water, whisk the mixture for a few min- 
 utes, pour it into a damped mould ot earthen- 
 ware — not metal — and set it in a cool place. 
 When wanted; turn it out carefully upon a glass 
 dish, and serve. Probable cost, 3a. 6d Suf- 
 ficient for a quart mould. 
 REDDA PUDDING. 
 
 Ingredients required are.: Two eggs, one tea- 
 cupful of castor sugar, one small tea-cupful of 
 sifted flour, one table-spoonful of milk, half a 
 tea-spoonful of baking-powder, a quarter of a 
 tea-spoonful of essence of lemon, and a little 
 jam. Beat the eggs and sugar together for 
 ten minutes, add the milk, sift in the flour 
 very slowly and lightly, and the way this is 
 done determines largely whether or not th^ 
 pudding is extremely light or not. Next add 
 the baking-powder and essence of lemon. 
 Grease the bottom and sides of a very shallow 
 tin, pour in the mixture, and bake for eight 
 to ten minutes in a quick oven. Turn the 
 cake out on -a paper powdered with castor 
 sugar, trim the edges, spread lightly with jam, 
 roll up, and dust over with fine sugar. The art 
 of making this pudding a success lies princi- 
 pally in the fact that it must be lightly but 
 quickly baked and rolled. Serve with custard. 
 
 RED DEER VENISON. 
 
 In suitable weather red deer venison should 
 hang three weeks before it is used, and should 
 in all respects be cooked like ordinary venison 
 (which see). The flesh of the red deer is highly 
 
 prized by some epicures, though others consider 
 it strong and coarse in flavour. This is, of 
 course, a matter of taste, but whatever may be 
 the opinion of sportsmen, ordinary housekeepers 
 will be wise to choose well-fed buck venison 
 rather than that of the red deer. 
 
 RED-EYE, OR RUDD. 
 
 Tliis is a common fish in lakes, slow rivers, 
 fens, etc., in England, and also in many parts 
 of Europe. It bears a marked resemblance to 
 the roach, but is shorter and deeper. It is bet- 
 ter eating than the roach. The name " rudd " 
 refers to the colour of the fish, which is very 
 rich. 
 
 RED HERRINGS OR BLOATERS, TO FRY. 
 
 Split open the herrings or bloaters, and cut off 
 their heads. Melt a little butter or dripping 
 in a frying-pan, put in the fish, and shake the 
 pan over a clear fire. Serve on a hot dish 
 with a small piece of butter laid on each. 
 Time to fry, five minutes. Probable cost. Id. 
 or IJd. each. Sufficient, one or two for each 
 person. (For other ways of cooking, see Heb- 
 EiNGS, Red.) 
 
 RED LIQUOR TO COLOUR CORDIALS, ETC. 
 
 Take half a pound of boiled beetroot sliced, 
 half an ounce of Jamaica pepper in powder, a 
 quarter of an ounce of cinnamon, three ounces 
 of sugar-candy broken small, one pint of pure 
 water, and one pint of proof spirit of wine. 
 Put these ingredients into a stone jar, tie 
 closely over with wet bladder, set it in a pan 
 of hot water for six or seven hours, then let it 
 stand for a week; strain, and filter. Bottle it, 
 and seal the corks; it will keep many months. 
 
 RED MULLET. 
 
 It is said that this fish was so highly esteemed 
 by the ancient Romans, that on one occasion 
 a sum equivalent to ,£234 7s. 6d. was given for 
 three. This high price was not paid on ac- 
 count of their edible value, but to gratify 
 the artistic passion of those who loved to 
 watch the beautiful changing colours of the 
 dying fish. Red mullet is a fish quite different 
 from and much superior to the grey mullet. 
 It is dressed without being gutted, and on this 
 account is sometimes spoken of as the sea- 
 woodcock. It may be had all the year round, 
 but it is in perfection only when the roe is form- 
 ing^that is, during the heat of summer. The 
 best mullet are those which are very red and 
 short, with bright clear eyes and firm flesh. 
 Unlike most fish, they are better for being kept 
 a short time. They are seldom boiled, though 
 they are frequently broiled, baked, and fried. 
 In cleaning them it will be necessary only to 
 scrape them lightly, and to pull out the gills, 
 when as much of the inside as ought to be re- 
 moved will come away with them. {See also 
 Mullet, Red.) 
 
 RED MULLET, BAKED. 
 
 Scrape a good-sized mullet lightly, pull out 
 the gills, and with them the thread-like gut. 
 Be careful not to injure the liver. Rub the 
 mullet with lemon-juice, and put it into a shal- 
 low dish with a chopped mushroom, a shallot 
 chopped small, a table-spoonful of chopped pars- 
 ley, two or three small sliees of carrot, a little 
 
RED 
 
 683 
 
 RED 
 
 X>epper and salt, and a wine-glassful of light 
 wine. Put the dish in a gentle oven, and bake 
 the mullet until done enough, basting at inter- 
 vals with butter or salad-oil. Serve on a hot 
 dish, with the sauce from the pan poured over 
 the fish. It will require baking from twenty to 
 thirty minutes. Or, prepare, wash, and dry 
 three mullets. Put them in a shallow dish, and 
 sprinkle over them a moderate-sized onion 
 chopped small, a table-spoonful of chopped pars- 
 ley, and a little pepper and salt. Pour a little 
 salad-oil or oiled butter over them, and let them 
 bake gently until done enough. Put into a 
 saucepan a tea-spoonful of salad-oil and a des- 
 spi't-spoonful of chopped onion. Stir these in- 
 gredients over the fire until the onions are 
 tender, dredge a little flour over them, add the 
 liquor from the fish, a little chopped parsely, 
 and a glassful of wine. Stir the sauce over the 
 fire until it is so thick that it coats the spoon, 
 and add, if liked, a little cream, and the juice 
 of half a lemon. Serve the fish on a hot dish, 
 with the sauce poured over it. Time to bake, 
 from twenty to thirty minutes. Probable cost 
 of mullet, from 6d. to 3s. each. 
 
 RED MULLET, BAKED (another way). 
 
 Butter a metal pie-dish, lay the fish in it, pour 
 over them about a wine-glassful of flour and 
 water or good broth, lay pieces of butter on 
 them, and baste all the time they are cooking. 
 The gravy which comes from them is red; the 
 colour may be heightened by a tea-spoonful of 
 essence of shrimps or anchovy, but should not 
 be discoloured by ketchup. Beading, or other 
 black-brown sauce. Serve the fish in the dish 
 in which they were baked. The dish is im- 
 proved if a glass of wine (to three fish) is 
 put in the tin. When done, mix the liquor 
 in the tin with some good melted butter a.nd 
 a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce, and serve with 
 the fish. 
 
 RED MULLET (i la Fran;aise). 
 
 Clean the fish through the gills; pound the 
 livers with an equal bulk of finely chopped 
 parsley, a, morsel of butter, and salt and pepper. 
 Replace them, close the fish, and lay them in 
 a well-buttered, shallow dish, close together, 
 heads and tails alternately. Then brush the 
 fish with oil. Sprinkle with finely chopped 
 parsley, powdered mixed herbs, and bread- 
 crumbs. Sprinkle with lemon-juice, and cook 
 gently in the oven, brushing over with oil 
 occasionally. Serve in the dish, and add lemon- 
 juice and white wine, a glass of each to four 
 fish, heated together, at the last moment; pour 
 round, not over the mullet. 
 
 RED MULLET (en Papillote). 
 
 Take out the gills; wash the fish, wipe care- 
 fully, and flour it. Take a piece of letter-paper, 
 cut it in the shape of a heart, and oil it. Season 
 with pepper and salt, lay the mullet on one side, 
 and season this also. Fold the paper over, and 
 turn over the edges securely. Broil the fish on 
 a gentle fire until it is lightly browned on both 
 sides without the paper being at all burnt and 
 serve it in the paper on a hot dish. It will be 
 excellent without sauce, but if this is required, 
 melted butter, anchovy sauce, Dutch sauce, or 
 Italian sauce may be sent to table with it. 
 
 Sometimes a little good sauce made as. for baked 
 mullet (see the preceding recipe) is spread over 
 the fish inside the paper. M^illet en papillote 
 may be baked as well as broiled. A little sauce 
 may then be made with the liquor which comes 
 from them, mixed with a glassful of wine, a des- 
 sert-spoonful of anchovy, and a tea-spoonful of 
 soy, thickened with a little flour, and stirred 
 over the fire till smooth. Time to broil, twenty 
 to thirty minutes. 
 
 RED MULLET, FILLETED AND FRIED. 
 
 Take half a dozen red mullet, scrape them 
 lightly, cut off their heads, cut the flsh open, take 
 out the inside, and carefully preserve the liver. 
 Divide the fish in halves, and lift the flesh from 
 the bones, so that each mullet will make two 
 fillets. Dry and flour these, and dip them either 
 into egg and seasoned bread-crumbs, or into a, 
 little frying-batter. Fry in hot fat, and when 
 they are lightly browned on both sides serve on 
 a hot dish, and send a sauce prepared as follow's 
 to table with them. Beat the boiled livers of 
 the fish with the back of a wooden spoon till 
 they are smooth. Drop them into a saucepan 
 containing the third of a pint of thin melted 
 butter made with water m which the livers 
 have been boiled for five or six minutes. Stir 
 the sauce over ±he fire till it is thick, season 
 with pepper and salt, and just before serving 
 add to it a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice, and 
 half a glassful of claret, if liked. Time to fry, 
 ten minutes or more. 
 
 RED MULLET, FRIED. 
 
 Melt two ounces of butter in a frying-pan. 
 Put in one good-sized or two small mullet, 
 squeeze the juice of half a lemon over them, and 
 season with pepper and salt. Let them fry 
 over a gentle fire until they are done enough, 
 turning them over when half done that they may 
 be equally cooked. Serve on a hot dish, either 
 plain or with melted butter, Dutch sauce, or 
 anchovy sauce. Time to fry the fish, a few 
 minutes. 
 
 RED MULLET, MARINADED AND BROILED. 
 
 Prepare the mullet in the usual way. Rub 
 each one with a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice and 
 a tea-spoonful of salad-oil, and sprinkle a little 
 pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg over it. Lay 
 all the fish in a dish, sprinkle over them a table- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley, and two shallots 
 finely minced, and let them lie for three hours. 
 Fold in buttered paper, and broil according to 
 the directions given for Red Mullet (en Papil- 
 lote). Time to broil, twenty to twenty-five, 
 minutes. 
 
 RED MULLET, SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Red mullet fried or boiled are very good 
 without sauce. When this is required, however, 
 plain melted butter, Dutch sauce, anchovy 
 sauce, or Italian sauce is the most suitable, or 
 a sauce may be prepared as f9llows. Rub the 
 yolks of two hard-boiled eggs to a paste, and 
 with them two ounces of clarified butter, a salt- 
 spoonful of unmixed mustard, a dessert-spoonful 
 of dried flour, a tea-spoonful of vinegar or 
 lemon-juice, and a little pepper and salt. Mix 
 with this paste a third of a pint of cold water, 
 put the mixture into a saucepan, and stir over 
 the flre till it boils. Throw in a dessert-spoonful 
 
RED 
 
 684 
 
 REF 
 
 of finely-shiedded parsley, let the sauce boil once 
 more, and serve. A sauce for baked mullet may 
 be made according to the directions given in 
 the recipe for Red Mtjllet, Baxed. 
 
 RED MULLET, STUFFED. 
 
 Scrape and wash the fish, and wipe them 
 carefully. Make a little forcemeat with hard- 
 boiled yolks of eggs, chopped parsley, butter, 
 pepper and salt, and a spoonful of finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs. Fill the mullet with this stuff- 
 ing, wrap the fish in buttered paper, and broil 
 over a gentle fire. When done enough, remove 
 the paper, and serve the fish on a hot dish with 
 a little melted maitre d'hotel butter under them, 
 or failing this, with maitre d'hotel sauce in a 
 tu7 een. Time to broil, twenty to thirty minutes. 
 
 RED PEARS, TO PRESERVE. 
 
 Weigh a dozen pears, peel them, and cut them 
 into halves. Take their weight in sugar, and 
 boil it to a clear syrup with half a pint of water 
 to each pound of sugar. Add half a dozen 
 cloves, an inch of stick cinnamon, a few drops 
 of cochineal, and a glassful of port; put in the 
 pears, and simmer them very gently till they are 
 clear and brightly coloured. Take them out, 
 and put them into glasses. Boil up the syrup, 
 strain it, pour it over the fruit, and cover the 
 glasses in the Usual way. Store in a cool dry 
 place. Time, three or four hours. 
 
 RED RICE PUDDING. 
 
 Take a pint of the expressed juice of red cur- 
 rants or raspberries, a glassful of wine, and a 
 little sugar. Let the liquor boil, then add gradu- 
 ally about three ounces of ground rice mixed 
 smoothly with a little cold water, and stir the 
 preparation until it thickens and leaves the 
 sides of the saucepan. Pour it into a damp 
 mould, and put it aside until cold. Turn it 
 upon a glass dish, and serve with cream or cus- 
 tard. If preferred, groats may be used instead 
 of grouna rice. Time to boil the preparation, 
 about ten minutes. Probable cost. Is. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 RED SACO. 
 
 Take some juice drawn from currants or rasp- 
 berries, or both mixed, or strawberries and cur- 
 rants are equally suitable. Measure the juice, 
 and allow two ounces of sago to the pint, then 
 put the two together, and cook until the sago is 
 done; add a little sugar. When it is ready, 
 pour it into a damp mould, and turn out when 
 set. Serve with cream or custard. 
 
 RED WINE CUSTARD. 
 
 Mix together in a bowl half a pint of good 
 thick cream, half a pound of white sugar, the 
 juice of three lemons and the grated peel of one, 
 with half a pint of red wine. Let it all remain 
 covered for twelve hours ; then beat it well with 
 a whisk till it froths ; let it stand a quarter of 
 an hour longer that the froth may be firm, take 
 it off with a slice, and put it into cujjs or a deep 
 dish. To be eaten with fancy biscuits. 
 
 REFORM CHIPS. 
 
 Eeform chips are used for garnishing pur- 
 poses. They have a good appearance when 
 placed in the centre of a dish of cutlets. Take 
 equal quantities of cooked ingredients of differ- 
 ent colours, such as pink ham, hard-boiled white 
 
 of egg, black truffles, red carrots, or green 
 pickles. Cut these into thin shreds about an 
 inch long, make them quite hot^ toss them 
 lightly to mix them, and serve. 
 
 REFRESHING BEVERAGE. 
 
 Slice two oranges and one lemon, which put 
 into a jug with two ounces of sugar-candy, over 
 which pour one quart of boiling water ; stir it 
 occasionally until cold. This drink is good 
 both for invalids and for persons in health, 
 especially in warm weather. 
 
 REFRESHING DRINK FOR THE SICK (Invalid 
 Cookery). 
 Take two ounces of hartshorn shavings, and 
 boil them in a quart of water; when the harts- 
 horn shavings are quite dissolved, set the liquid 
 aside to settle. Before it is cold strain it 
 through a tamis upon half a lemon sliced thin, 
 and sugar to taste. Cover, and let it remain till 
 cold, then mix with it a good glassful of Moselle 
 or French wine. 
 
 REFRESHING DRINKS. 
 
 Very refreshing drinks may be made from 
 fresh fruit when it is in season, and they will 
 be found to be much superior to those which are 
 made from fruit syrup. Pick a quart of fruit, 
 and mash it well in a basin. Pour over it two 
 quarts of cold spring water. Wash some paper 
 in water till it is reduced to a pulp. Put this 
 into the basin with the fruit, pour the whole 
 into a jelly-bag, and strain off the juice. Add 
 sugar boiled to a syrup, and a little lemon-juice, 
 if liked. Serve the fruit-water in glasses. 
 Cherries, red and white currants, raspberries, 
 and strawberries, are specially suited for these 
 drinks. The cherries should have boiling water 
 poured over them, and should be allowed to 
 soak for an hour or two. When these fruits are 
 not in season, pour boiling water over three or 
 four baked apples, while they are still hot. 
 Strain off the liquor when it is cold, and sweeten 
 with honey or moist sugar. It will prove a very 
 welcome beverage. In winter-time slice a lemon 
 and two oranges into a jug. Pour over these a 
 quart of boiling water, add a table-spoonful of 
 crushed sugar-candy, and strain the liquor when 
 cold. A considerable variety of refreshing 
 drinks will be found under the heading Summer 
 Bevebaoes. 
 REFRESHING SAUCE (Sauce Rafraichissante). 
 
 Put two shallots, minced very fine, into a 
 bowl, with two table-spoonfuls of small mustard 
 and cress. Mix the juice of two fresh limes, a 
 glass of claret, a table-spoonful each of French 
 vinegar, horse-radish vinegar, and onion vine- 
 gar ; add them to the contents of the bowl, and 
 season to taste with sugar, salt, and mignon- 
 ette pepper. Then put in a drop of garlic vine- 
 gar, or rub the bowl previously with a morsel 
 of garlic. Prepare some hours before using. It 
 is a good sauce for hot meats, grilled or broiled, 
 or for kidneys or grilled fish. 
 
 REFRIGERANTS. 
 
 (See Ices.) 
 REFRIGERATOR, FOOD. 
 
 The ordinary food refrigerator is usually in 
 the form of a chest which has a compartment for 
 ice and one or more compartments for the food. 
 
REQ 
 
 685 
 
 REU 
 
 Most- of the older forms of refrigerators did not 
 completely separate the ice from the food com- 
 partments, and many of them were merely chests 
 with double sides, separated by some non-con- 
 dudting substance, as charcoal, in which the ice 
 as well as the articles to be kept cool were placed 
 on shelves indiscriminately. In either case the 
 moisture from the evaporating ice filled the 
 whole apparatus, and caused the contents to 
 begin decaying soon after their removal, and, 
 indeed, prevented their being preserved long 
 while they were within it. In the presence of 
 moisture, particularly when it contains the 
 effluvia from various meats and articles of food, 
 decomposition will go on even at a temperature 
 considerably below the freezing point, and the 
 latter cannot be secured merely by the presence 
 of ice. In a dry atmosphere meats may even be 
 preserved without ice. It a current of air is 
 made to circulate in a chamber surrounding an 
 ice-box, much of the moisture of the air will be 
 condensed upon the box, and there will also be a 
 constant collection of impurities contained in 
 the air. To make such a refrigerator efficient, 
 the air must be first dried by passing it through 
 a vessel containing chloride of calcium or some 
 substance which will rapidly absorb moisture. 
 In either case the caloric absorbed by the ice 
 to cool a continuous current causes it to melt 
 rapidly. An efficient method is to place a tight 
 ice-box within a tight meat-box, or surround the 
 latter with an ice-chamber, the meats to be first 
 cooled in the open air. 
 
 REGENT'S PUDDING. 
 
 Grate two ounces of the white meat of a cocoa- 
 nut. Mix with this two ounces of finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs, two ounces of flour, three ounces 
 of finely-shredded beef suet, a table-spoonful of 
 picked and washed currants, a table-spoonful of 
 chopped raisins, and a little sugar. Mix these 
 ingredients thoroughly, and beat them up with 
 two eggs and one-eighth of a pint of milk. 
 Pour the mixture into a buttered basin, put over 
 it a piece of buttered writing-paper, and tie it in 
 a cloth. Plunge i\ into boiUng water, and let it 
 boil quickly until done enough. Turn it out 
 carefiilly, and before sending to table, pour over 
 it a little custard-sauce pleasantly flavoured 
 with vanilla. Time to boil, about three hours. 
 Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 REGENT'S PUNCH. 
 
 Take the very thin rinds of two lemons, two 
 China oranges, and one bitter one. Pour over 
 them half a pound of white sugar-candy which 
 has been boiled to a thin syrup with water and 
 allowed to eool. Let the rinds infuse for an 
 hour. Pour over them a pint of cold strong 
 green tea, and add the strained juice of the 
 fruit, a glass of rum, a glass of brandy, a glass 
 of arrack, a glass of pineapple syrup, two bottles 
 of champagne, and one of seltzer water. Strain 
 the punch through lawn till it is quite clear, 
 bottle immediately, and put it into ice for an 
 hour or two till wanted. Serve in a bowl or jug. 
 If preferred, instead of using pineapple syrup, a 
 fresh pineapple may be sliced into the punch. 
 REGENT'S SAUCE, FOR SWEET PUDDINGS. 
 
 Beat up the yolk of an egg with a quarter of u. 
 pint of milk or cream. Add a table-spoonful of 
 
 rum, a dessert-spoonful of sugar, and a slight 
 flavouring of essence of vanilla. When thor- 
 oughly mixed, serve. Probable cost, if made 
 with milk, 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 REGENT'S SOUP. 
 
 Take the bones, trimmings, and remains of 
 cold game. Break them into small pieces, put 
 them into a stewpan, and pour over them two 
 quarts of stock made from meat-bones. Add a 
 large carrot, a large onion, a small turnip, and 
 three or four heads of celery, all cut up small. 
 Let the soup boil, skim carefully, draw it to the 
 side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for two 
 hours. Strain, and remove the fat. Wash four 
 ounces of pearl barley, and boil it in a separate 
 saucepan until it is done enough. Drain, and 
 put aside one-half. Pound the other half with 
 the yolks of three eggs boiled hard, rub the mix- 
 ture through a fine sieve, moisten with a quarter 
 of a pint of cream, and add it gradually to the 
 soup. Stir the whole over the fire until it is very 
 hot without boiling, add the barley that was 
 put aside, and serve immediately. Time, three 
 hours. Probable cost, exclusive of the price of 
 the game, 6d. per quart. Sufficient for eight or 
 ten persons. 
 
 REGENT'S STORE SAUCE. 
 
 Infuse six shallots, four cloves, and an ounce 
 of cayenne in a bottle with a quart of vinegar 
 for ten days, and shake the bottle every day. 
 Strain the liquor, and mix thoroughly with it a 
 quarter of a pint of soy, a quarter of a pint of 
 mushroom ketchup, and a tea-spoonful of the 
 essence of anchovy. Put the sauce into small 
 bottles, cork securely, and store for use. 
 
 REINDEER PUDDING. 
 
 Butter a pudding mould, and line the sides 
 and bottom with slices of stale sponge cake. 
 Pieces of stale Madeira or other cake may be 
 used, if liked. Sprinkle each piece with a few 
 pieces of preserved ginger. Beat two eggs very 
 thoroughly, and stir into half a pint of hot, 
 but not boiling, milk. Add a dessert-spoonful 
 of sugar, and stir well. Bring to close upon 
 boiling-point, then pour the liquid over the 
 oa,ke. Cover with a layer of cake, and sprinkle 
 with ginger; then pour on more custard. Re- 
 peat till dish is full. Cover with a buttered 
 paper and steam for an hour. Serve with a 
 sauce made with a quarter of a pint of water 
 and a tablespoonful of sugar, boiled together, 
 and one ounce of ginger cut small. 
 
 REINDEER TONGUE, TO BOIL. 
 
 Soak the tongue in cold water for three hours. 
 Put it in an airy situation till dry, then soak it 
 again, and repeat this process three times. 
 When it is to be cooked scrape it well, put it 
 into a saucepan with as much cold water as will 
 cover it, bring it slowly to the boil, and skim 
 it well. Simmer the tongue until it is tender. 
 "Serve on a table-napkin; garnish with parsley. 
 
 RELISHING SAUCE (for Fowls, Meat, Fish, etc.) 
 
 Put into a, stewpan a table-spoonfui of 
 chopped onions, with one of chilli vinegar, one 
 of common vinegar, three of water, two of mush- 
 room ketchup, two of Harvey's sauce, and one 
 of anchovies; add to these a pint of melted 
 butter, let the sauce simmer until it adheres to 
 
REM 
 
 686 
 
 REN 
 
 the back of the spoon ; add half a tea-spoonful 
 of sugar; it is then ready for use. 
 
 RfMOULADE— FRENCH SALAD DRESSING. 
 
 This sauce is very much like an ordinary 
 English salad-dressing, and is used in the same 
 „ way. It is also an excellent accompaniment to 
 chops or cold meats of various kinds. To make 
 it, boil three eggs till hard. Throw them into 
 cold water, strip off the shells and the whites of 
 the eggs, and pound the yolks in a mortar, with 
 1, dessert-spoonful of mustard and a little salt 
 and cayenne. When these ingredients are 
 thoroughly blended, and the paste is quite 
 smooth, add, first by drops and afterwards by 
 tea-spoonfuls, three table-spoonfuls of olive oil, 
 and beat the sauce well between every addition. 
 When it is quite thick, add the yolk of a raw 
 egg, and afterwards, very gradually, one table- 
 spoonful of plain or tarragon vinegar. The 
 flavour of this sauce may be varied at pleasure 
 by the addition of a tea-spoonful of Harvey's 
 sauce, two or three pounded shallots, a very 
 small piece of garlic; or chilli, cucumber, or 
 shallot vinegar may be substituted for tarragon 
 vinegar. The proportion of oil and vinegar 
 used may be varied according to taste. Time, 
 a quarter of an hour to boil the eggs. 
 
 REMOULADE (another way). 
 
 Take the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, about 
 a tea-spoonful of flour of mustard rubbed up 
 with three or four table-spoonfuls of oil; mix 
 these ingredients well, and when they are thor- 
 oughly incorporated add two table-spoonfuls of 
 vinegar, and a little pepper, and other flavour- 
 ing materials according to taste. Eemoulade 
 is much employed in making the salad known as 
 mayonnaise. 
 
 REMOULADE, GREEN. 
 
 Take a handful of chervil, and half the quan- 
 tity of chives, pimpernel, and tarragon. Throw 
 them into boiling water for a minute, and after- 
 wards squeeze them in a cloth till dry. Pound 
 them in a mortar, and with them a table-spoon- 
 ful of made mustard, and a little salt and cay- 
 enne or white pepper. Beat this mixture well 
 with the yolk of a raw egg, and add, first by 
 drops and afterwards by tea-spoonfuls, three 
 table-spoonfuls of olive oil and one table-spoon- 
 ful of vinegar. Pass the sauce through a fine 
 sieve, and if it is not sufiiciently coloured, add a 
 few drops of parsley or spinach-juice. If pre- 
 ferred, a shallot, a sprig of parsley, four young 
 onions, and four capers may be pounded and 
 mixed with the oil and vinegar instead of the 
 herbs mentioned above. 
 
 REMOULADE, INDIAN. 
 
 Pound the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, 
 and season the paste with a^ little salt and a 
 dessert-spoonful of curry-paste or powder. Add 
 very gradually, first by drops and afterwards by 
 tea-spoonfuls, three table-spoonfuls of olive oil," 
 and beat the sauce between every addition. 
 When it is quite smootli add one table-spoonful 
 of vinegar, or more if liked. Eemoulade is pre- 
 pared in this way in the West Indies. 
 
 REMOULADE OF CUCUMBERS (an excellent pickte). 
 
 Divide the cucumbers into quarters, take off 
 
 the rind, and remove the seeds. Cut the sec- 
 
 I into pieces about an inch and a half long, 
 ;hem into a large earthen pan, and sprinkle 
 
 tions i 
 
 put them into a large earthen pan, and sprinkle 
 an ounce of salt over each pound of cucumbers. 
 Let them soak for four hours, drain on a sieve 
 until all the moisture has run away from them, 
 then dry them in the sun for one hour. Make 
 as much remoulade as will be required to bind 
 the pieces of cucumber together, in the follow- 
 ing manner. Take a handful each of tarragon, 
 burnet, chives, and chervil. Throw them into 
 boiling water for a minute, and afterwards 
 squeeze them well in a cloth to free them from 
 moisture. Put them into a mortar with the 
 yolks of four hard-boiled eggs, four filleted an- 
 chovies, a table-spoonful of capers, and a table- 
 spoonful of unmixed mustard. Pound these in- 
 gredients until they form a smooth paste and 
 are thoroughly blended, then beat them up with 
 the yolks of three raw eggs. Add very gradu- 
 ally, first by drops and then by tea-spoonfuls, 
 half a pint of best olive oil, and afterwards 
 about three table-spoonfuls of either tarragon or 
 chilli vinegar, beating the sauce well between 
 every addition. Hub it through a fine sieve, 
 stir the cucumbers into rt, and put the pickle 
 into small bottles. Cover the mouths of the 
 bottles with bladder, and store in a very cool, 
 airy place. Time to prepare, six hours. Prob- 
 able cost of cucumbers, 6d. each, when in full 
 season. 
 
 RENNET. 
 
 /Keunet is the name given to the prepared 
 inner membrane of a calf, pig, hare, fowl, 
 or turkey's stomach, which is used for turning 
 milkjjlt may frequently be bought ready dried 
 of the butcher, and then may be kept a long 
 time, if hung in a cool place, and covered to 
 preserve it from dust. When wanted for use, a 
 little piece about two inches square should be 
 soaked in a quarter of a pint of hot water for 
 four hours, and the liquor thus obtained should 
 be stirred into lukewarm milk. Kennet varips 
 so much in strength that it is not easy to say 
 how much will be required. Ordinarily, a table- 
 spoonful of the liquor in whieh the dried rennet 
 has been soaked will turn two quarts of milk. 
 For people living in towns the easiest way of 
 procuring rennet is to buy a bottle of the 
 essence, which is sold by almost all chemists 
 ready for use.^ Eennet, however, may be pre- 
 pared at homer as follows. ' Take the stomachs 
 of two or more freshly-killed calves. Cleanse 
 them thoroughly from all impurities, and rub 
 them inside and out with salt. Pack them 
 closely in a stone jar, strew salt between and 
 over them, and cover them up. A month or 
 more before they are to be used lefj them drain 
 a few hours, and dry them by stretching them 
 on sticks. 
 
 RENNET (bther ways). 
 
 For the preparation of rennet there are many 
 recipes; the following will be found one of the 
 best. Take a calf's stomach-bag or maw, wash 
 it clean, salt it thoroughly inside and out, and 
 let it lie for two or three days. Hang it up to 
 drain for another two or three days, then re- 
 salt it, and put it into a jar covered with paper, 
 pricked with pinholes. It may be used in a few 
 days, but keeping improves it. When prepared 
 for use, a handful of sweetbrier leaves, of dog- 
 
REN 
 
 G87 
 
 RES 
 
 rose leaves, and of bramble leaves, together with 
 three or four handfuls of salt, are boiled in a 
 gallon of water for a quarter of an hour, and 
 when quite cold the salted maw is added, to- 
 gether with a lemon stuck round with a quarter 
 of an ounce of cloves. There must be enough 
 salt to admit' of some reinaining always at the 
 bottom undisturbed, and the liquor must be 
 skimmed as often as is necessary. 
 RENNET, GALLINO. 
 
 Gallino rennet is that which is made from the 
 rough coating of the gizzards of fowls or tur- 
 keys, and milk coagulated with it is more deli- 
 cate than it would be if common rennet were 
 U3ed. To prepare it, carefully preserve the skin 
 of the ifizzards when about to dress poultry. 
 Cleanse it thoroughly, and rub it well with salt. 
 Stretch it out, and let it dry. About the same 
 quantity of skin must be soaked as is needed for 
 ordinary rennet, and it should be laid into ^ater 
 the night before it is wanted for use, 
 
 ^^^ENNET, LIQUID. 
 1^ Take 
 
 Take twelve ounces of fresh rennet, cut small, 
 
 / and three ounces of common salt; knead thehi 
 
 1 together, and leave the mixture at rest in a cool 
 
 \ place for five or six weeks; then add eighteen 
 
 \ ounces of water and two ounces of good proof 
 
 1 spirit or rum. Digest for twenty-four hours; 
 
 j filter the liquid, and colour it with a little burnt 
 
 I sugar. Two or three tea-spoonfuls will curdle 
 
 (^ a quart of milk. , 
 
 RENNET, SUBSTITUTE FOR. 
 
 It sometimes happens that no rennet suf-; 
 ficiently good for curdling milk can be obtained, 
 hence various plants have been advantageously 
 employed for this purpose. The principal of 
 these are the flowers of the yellow ladies' bed- 
 straw used in England, and the eardown in 
 Spain. A strong infusion is made of the flpwers 
 or down in the evening, and on the succeeding 
 morning half a pint is poured upon fourteen 
 gallons of new milk, which is thus effectually 
 coagulated, and in consequence produces a de- 
 licious cheese. 
 
 RENNETT. 
 
 This is the common name, not only in 
 English, but, with slight modifications, in 
 French, German, and other languages, of a 
 class of apple, including many of the most beau- 
 tiful and pleasant varieties. They are of a 
 very regular and nearly globose shape; their 
 skin has generally a rusty tinge, and often a 
 kind of unctuousness to the touch; their flesh 
 is finely granular, and besides being sweet and 
 agreeably acid, they have a peculiar aromatic 
 flavour. They do not keep well. 
 
 RENNET WHEY. 
 
 To prepare rennet whey, place a quart of milk 
 in a basin surrounded with boiling water, till 
 the milk is of a blood heat, or a little warmer, 
 and then mix with it a tea-spoonful of rennet; 
 remove it from the warm watef, and the milk 
 will soon be completely coagulated; then break 
 down the curd, and pass the whey through a 
 strainer, which, will leave the curd behind. 
 This whey is always rendered somewhat whitish 
 by a very small and much-divided portion of 
 the caseous part, but as a. sick diet drink this 
 does no injury. The whey, however, if it is 
 
 wished, may be clarified. Put in a basin the 
 white of an e%%, a wine-glassful of the whey, 
 and four or five grains of tartaric acid in 
 powder ; whisk these well together with a bunch 
 of peeled twigs or an egg-whisk, and add tte 
 remainder of the whey; place the mixture over 
 the fire till it begins to boil. The tartaric acid i 
 completes the coagulation of the white part of 
 the milk, which remains ; the white of the e%^, 
 as it becomes hot, coagulates, and envelops 
 the caseous part. When the whey is clear, pour 
 it off ; some filter it through blotting-paper, but 
 this is unnecessary, as it is easy to keep out 
 that part which is united with the albumen of 
 the e%%. 
 
 RESTORATIVE BROTHS. 
 
 Take one pound of scrag of mutton. Break 
 the bone with a chopper, and put it into a sauce- 
 pan with three pints of water. Add a little salt, 
 a small onion, a small turnip, a stick of celery, 
 and a table-spoonful of pearl barley. Let the 
 liquor boil, then draw the saucepan to the side, 
 and let its contents simmer for two hours. 
 Skim carefully, strain, and the broth will be 
 ready for use. The meat may be served with 
 parsley and butter or caper sauce. Sufiicient 
 for one quart of broth. Probable cost, 6d. per 
 pint. Or, split a calf's foot, and put it into a 
 saucepan with two pounds of fresh knuckle of 
 veal broken up. Add a large onion, half a small 
 parsnip, a leek, a little salt, and three quarts 
 of cold water. Bring the broth to the boil, skim 
 it, then simmer it gently for four hours. A 
 quarter ot an hour before it is taken up skim 
 it once more, and throw into it a handful of 
 chervil, ten large sorrel-leaves, and a cabbage 
 lettuce finely shredded. Strain the broth, and 
 it is ready for use. Many invalids prefer to take 
 this broth cold in the form of a jelly. Time, 
 four hours. Probable cost, 8d. per pint. Suf- 
 ficient for nearly two quarts of broth. Or, 
 take half a pound of lean beef, and half a pound 
 of lean mutton or veal. Cut the meat into 
 small pieces, put these into a jar with a closely- 
 fitting lid, pour a quarter of a pint of cold 
 water over them, and place in a moderately- 
 heated oven for half an hour. Take the meat 
 out, pour over it a pint, of water, and put it in 
 the oven again for an hour and a half. Strain 
 the broth through muslin, carefully remove every 
 particle of fat, and add salt and pepper to taste. 
 These should be put in sparingly, as an in- 
 valid's tastes are often peculiar, Sufiicient for 
 nearly three-quarters of a pint. Probable cost, 
 9d. per pint. Time, two hours. Or, cut up a 
 partridge into small pieces with a pound of the 
 roll of the bladebone of beef. Fry these in a 
 little butter till they are lightly and equally 
 browned, then lift them out, and put them into 
 a dish. Cut two ounces of uncooked ham into 
 dice. Mix with them the red part of a carrot 
 finely scraped, and five or six sticks of celery cut 
 up small. Stir these in a saucepan with a little 
 butter for three or four minutes, add the fried 
 meat, a little salt, a pinch of powdered thyme, 
 and three or four peppercorns, and pour over 
 all three pints of cold spring water. Bring the 
 liquor slowly to the boil, remove the scum as it 
 rises, and throw in a spoonful of cold water now 
 and again to assist it in rising. Let it simmer 
 
RES 
 
 688 
 
 RHU 
 
 very gently for an hour and a half, pour it out, 
 and strain for use. Time, two hours. Probable 
 cost, varying with the price of the partridge. 
 Sufficient for a little more than a quart of broth. 
 Or, take a chicken and cut it up into small 
 joints. Put these into a saucepan with two ■- 
 pounds of knuckle of veal broken up into small 
 pieces, an onion stuck with three cloves, siz pep- 
 percorns, and one pint of cold water. Boil the 
 liquor quickly until it begins to thicken, and be 
 very careful that it does not burn. Pour over 
 this three quarts of cold water, and add two 
 scraped carrots, and five or six sticks of celery, 
 or half a tea-spoonful of bruised celery-seed. 
 Let the broth boil, remove the scum, then draw 
 the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let its 
 contents simmer for two hours. Strain through 
 a sieve, and the broth will be ready for use. 
 Time, two hours and a half. Probable cost. Is. 
 per pint. Sufficient for a little more than two 
 quarts. Many physicians are of opinion that 
 Bovril dissolved in a little boiling water forms 
 by itself a most excellent and restorative broth. 
 A small quantity is also a valuable addition to 
 broth made from fresh meat. 
 
 RESTORATIVE MEAT JELLY. 
 
 Take three or four pounds of the knuckle of 
 veal, the same weight of fresh-killed gravy beef, 
 and one calf's foot , cut the meat from the bones, 
 and chop these m pieces, lay them in the bot- 
 tom of a stewpan, and put the meat on the top 
 of them ; then add as much cold water as will 
 rise two or thren inches above the meat ; let the 
 whole simmer very gently tor four hours, taking 
 great care to remove every particle of scum as 
 it rises in the first boiling. Strain through a 
 fine hair sieve, and the next morning the whole 
 of the fat can be taken off. 
 
 REVOLUTION CAKE (sometimes called Lafayette 
 Cake). 
 Take a Savoy or Madeira cake which has been 
 baked in a plain square mould, and cut it into 
 slices a quarter of an inch in thickness. Spread 
 some jam over these, and place five or six slices 
 together, one on the top of the other. Whisk 
 the whites of two eggs thoroughly, add half a 
 pound of finely-sifted sugar, and a dessert- 
 spoonful of lemon-juice or orange-flower water. 
 Whisk the mixture until quite smooth, spread it 
 evenly over the cake v/ith the back of a spoon, 
 and mark the shape of the pieces into which it is 
 afterwards to be cut. Place the cake in a very 
 cool oven to dry the icing. Two or three drops 
 of cochineal will give it a rose tint. Time, half 
 an hour to prepare. Probable cost. Is. 6d. Suf- 
 ficient, one cake for three or four persons. 
 
 RHENISH CREAM. 
 
 Dissolve an ounce of isinglass and four ounces 
 of loaf sugar in a pint of boiling water, and let 
 ohe liquor stand until cold. Add the grated 
 rind of half a Seville orange, and one lemon, and 
 the juice of both, or, if preferred, the rind of two 
 lemons and the juice of three. Add the yolks of 
 four fresh eggs, and half a pint of light wine, 
 and boil gently, stirring all the time until it is 
 on the point of boiling ; pour it into a damp 
 mould, and let it stand in a cool place till set. 
 Tlie flavour of this cream is often varied by the 
 addition of two ounces of sweet almonds and 
 
 eight bitter ones, which have been blanched and 
 pounded, then mixed with a cupful of ' cold 
 water, and allowed to soak for an hour. When 
 this addition is made it will be desirable to add 
 the yolks of two more eggs to the cream. Time 
 to prepare the almonds, an hour and a half. 
 Probable cost. Is. lOd. Sufficient for a quart 
 mould. 
 
 RHUBARB. 
 
 Rhubarb comes into season in the spring of 
 the year, just as apples are going out, and be- 
 fore fresh fruit comes in. It is therefore a most 
 useful production, and it is appetising as well 
 as wholesome, and is excellent for purifying the 
 blood. Tlie parts of the plant used are the foot- 
 stalks, and when these are very young they 
 require only to be wiped with a damp cloth, 
 and afterwards cut into suitable lengths before 
 
 REVOLUIION CAKE. 
 
 being cooked. When the stalks are fully grown 
 and thick, the skin should be peeled off. Early 
 forced rhubarb, or champagne rhubarb, as it is 
 called, is especially prized for its beautiful 
 colour. When rhubarb is grown in the garden 
 this variety may be easily cultivated by placing 
 an empty cask over the plant at the beginning 
 of winter. As rhubarb possesses the quality of 
 imbibing the flavour of anything with which it 
 is cooked and imparting its own flavour very 
 slightly, it is most useful for mixing with other 
 and more richly-fiavoured fruits in making pies 
 and puddings. 
 
 RHUBARB AND BREAD PUDDING. 
 
 Butter a pie-dish thickly, and cover the bot- 
 tom with a layer of bread-crumbs half an inch 
 thick. Place upon this a layer of rhubarb 
 washed and cut into one-inch lengths, and 
 sprinkle some moist sugar over the fruit. Fill 
 the dish with alternate layers of fruit and 
 bread, and be careful that the sides of the dish 
 are walled with bread-crumbs; let bread form 
 the topmost layer. Lay three or four little 
 pieces of butter here and there on the top of 
 the pudding, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 When time is a consideration the bread may be 
 freed from crust, and laid in the pie-dish in 
 thin slices without being crumbled. Time, half 
 an hour to one hour, according to size. When 
 
RHU 
 
 689 
 
 RHU 
 
 the rhubarb is soft the pudding is done. Prob- 
 able cost of rhubarb, 5d. to 8d. per bundle. 
 
 RHUBARB AND LEMON JAM, 
 
 {See Lemon and Ehubabb Jam.) 
 
 RHUBARB AND ORANGE JAM. 
 
 With a pint of rhubarb skinned, cut small, 
 and shaken down, put three oranges, and three- 
 quarters of a pound of loaf sugar. , Peel the 
 oranges, and cut half the rind into thin strips, 
 as if it were to be made into marmalade. Pare 
 the white pith from the oranges, and out them 
 into thin slices, carefully removing the pips. 
 Put the cut-up oranges, the rhubarb, and the 
 requisite quantity of sugar into a preserving- 
 pan, and boil the jam over a moderate fire until 
 a little will jelly when laid on a plate. Remove 
 the scum as it rises, and stir the fruit to keep it 
 from burning. Put the jam into jars, and when 
 it is cold cover in the usual way. Time, three- 
 quarters to one hour from the time the jam 
 boils. Probable cost, 6d. to 8d. per pound. 
 
 RHUBARB, BLANCHING OF. 
 
 The advantages derived by blanching the 
 stalks of rhubarb for culinary purposes are con- 
 siderable. "They are twofold, namely, the de- 
 sirable qualities of improved appearance and 
 flavour, and a saving in the quantity of sugar 
 necessary to render it agreeable to the palate, 
 since the leaf-stalks, when blanched, are much 
 less harsh than those grown under the full in- 
 fluence of light, in an open situation." Ehu- 
 barb may either be blanched by earthing up the 
 roots early in spring, or by using earthen pots 
 or covers, as in blanching seakale. 
 
 RHUBARB, COMPOTE OF. 
 
 Champagne or forced rhubarb is much the 
 best for this dish, so far as appearance is con- 
 cerned. Wipe or wash, but do not peel the 
 rhubarb, and cut it into three-inch lengths. 
 For a pound of fruit boil a quarter of a pint of 
 water with six ounces of loaf sugar for ten 
 minutes, put in the rhubarb, and let it simmer 
 very gently until it is tender without being in 
 the least broken. Lift the pieces out carefully 
 a? they become done enough, and lay these in a 
 glass dish. Boil the syrup for a minute or two, 
 and pour it out to cool. Colour with two or 
 three drops of cochineal, and pour the syrup 
 over the fruit. This dish is an excellent accom- 
 paniment to rice moulds or blancmange, and, 
 owing to its bright colour, adds greatly to the 
 appearance of the table. When more conve- 
 nient, the rhubarb may be baked instead of 
 boiled, but equal care should be taken that the 
 rhubarb does not fall to pieces. Time to sim- 
 mer, ten minutes or more. Probable cost of 
 rhubarb, 5d. to 8d. per bundle. Sufficient, one 
 bundle for three moderate-sized dishes. 
 
 RHUBARB, COMPOTE OF (another way). 
 
 Cut a pound of rhubarb into pieces half an 
 inch long, and place these in a stewpan with 
 six ounces of powdered sugar and a quarter of a 
 pint of water. Shake the sauoejian over a brisk 
 fire until the fruit is tender, lift it out care- 
 fully, and pile in the centre of a glass dish. 
 Dissolve in the syrup a tea-spoonful of isinglass 
 or gelatine, colour with two or three drops of 
 cochineal, and when it is sold, pour it round 
 •2 s 
 
 the fruit. Time to simmer the fruit, ten min- 
 utes or more. Probable cost of rhubarb, 5d. to 
 8d. per bundle. 
 
 RHUBARB, COMPOTE OF (another way). 
 
 The small forced rhubarb (Mitchell's Eoyal 
 Albert) is by far the best for this dish. Cut 
 about half a pound of it into pieces half an inch 
 in length, which put into a stewpan with a 
 quarter of a pound of powdered sugar and a 
 wine-glassful of wat.er; set it over a sharp fire, 
 occasionally shaking the stewpan round, and 
 when quite tender pour the contents into a, 
 basin until cold, when it is ready for serving; 
 should the syrup be too thin, add sufficient 
 isinglass to set it, and when cold dress it pyra- 
 midically upon the dish. 
 
 RHUBARB, COMPOTE OF (another way). 
 
 Boil in a clean preserving-pan five or six 
 ounces of good sugar with a quarter of a pint 
 of spring water. Cut into inch lengths one 
 pound of fresh rhubarb stalks, and simmer them 
 gently in the syrup, skimming if necessary. 
 Take rhubarb of the same growth that it may 
 all be sufficiently tender at the same time. 
 Time, ten minutes to boil syrup, about half an 
 hour to simmer rhubarb. 
 
 RHUBARB FLUMMERY. 
 
 Soak a quarter of an ounce of isinglass or 
 gelatine in three table-spoonfuls of cold water 
 for an hour. Cut up one pound and a half of 
 rhubarb into small pieces, and simmer this in as 
 much cold water as will barely cover it, until 
 it is quite soft. Drain off the juice, put it into 
 a saucepan with the soaked isin^ass, and stir 
 until the isinglass is dissolved. Eub the fruit <- 
 through a sieve, mix the pulp with the isinglass, 
 etc., and add four table-spoonfuls of thick 
 cream. Sweeten according to taste. Stir the 
 flummery over the fire for a few minutes, but 
 do not allow it to boil, pour it into a damped 
 basin, and let it stand in a cool place till set. 
 Turn it out on a glass dish, and send it to table 
 with custard poured .round it. Time to boil the 
 rhubarb, fifteen to thirty minutes, according to 
 its age. Probable cost, lOd., if made with 
 gelatine. 
 RHUBARB FOOL. 
 
 Wash and, if necessary, peel the rhubarb, and 
 cut it up into small pieces. Put sufficient 
 for use into a jar which has a closely-fitting 
 lid, with as much sugar as will be required to 
 sweeten it. Set this jar in a saucepan of boil- 
 ing water, and keep it boiling until the fruit is 
 quite soft. Eub it through a sieve with the 
 back of a wooden spoon, and mix with the pulp 
 as much cream, milk, or thin cold custard as 
 will make it of the consistency of gruel. Taste 
 it, and if not sufficiently sweet, add a little 
 more sugar. Serve cold in a glass dish. Prob- 
 able cost, 5d. or 6d. per pint if made with milk. 
 Time for boiling, varying with the age of the 
 fruit. 
 RHUBARB FRITTERS. 
 
 Pare five or six rhubarb stalks, and cut them 
 small. Beat a pint of flour to a smooth paste 
 with half a pint of water, add a pinch of salt, a 
 pint of milk, and two well-beaten eggs, then 
 stir the rhubarb into the batter. Put a large 
 table-spoonful of lard or sweet dripping into a 
 
RHU 
 
 690 
 
 RHU 
 
 thick-bottomed irying-pan. Melt the fat, and 
 when it is boiling hot, put in the batter by 
 spoonfuls, and keep each spoonful separate. 
 Flatten lie tops of the fritters a little, and 
 when one side is brightly browned, turn them 
 over upon the other. When they are done 
 enough drain them, and serve on a hot dish 
 with a little piece of butter, a grate of nutmeg, 
 and a tea-spoonful of sugar over each. Time to 
 fry, three or four minutes. Probable cost. Is. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 RHUBARB JAM. 
 
 Rhubarb jam is most wholesome and useful, 
 but it will not keep for a great length of time 
 like other preserved fruits. Peel the rhubarb, 
 and cut it up into short lengths. Weigh it, 
 and with each pound of fruit put one pound of 
 3ugar, the rind of half a small lemon, finely 
 chopped, and a quarter of an ounce of bitter 
 almondsi, blanched and chopped. Bring the 
 fruit slowly to the boil, stir constantly, and 
 skim carefully, then boil it rather quickly until 
 it will set when a Uttle is put upon a plate. 
 Put it into jars, and when it is cold, tie these 
 down in the usual way. If liked, the almonds 
 may be omitted, and the juice of the lemon may 
 be added to the fruit. Time to boil young rhu- 
 barb, about three-quarters of an hour. Old 
 rhubarb, one hour to one hour and a half, count- 
 ing from the time the jam simmers equally all 
 over. Probable cost, 6d. to 8d. per pound. 
 
 RHUBARB JAM (another way). 
 
 Take as much rhubarb as is required, and cut 
 it into small pieces ; then take a pound of sugar 
 to every pound of rhubarb, and let all steep 
 together in a. covered jar for three days. Put 
 some sticks of ginger into a wine-glass, fill up 
 the glass with whiskey, and let it also stand 
 for three days. Add the whiskey to the rhu- 
 barb, taking care to keep back the sticks of 
 ginger. Boil for forty minutes, put into jars, 
 and cover in the usual way. A wine-glassful of 
 ginger and whiskey is usually thought enough 
 to flavour seven pounds of rhubarb, but more or 
 less may be used according to taste. This is a 
 Scotch recipe, and said to be an excellent one. 
 It is to be observed that the latter part of the 
 season is the best time of the year for preserv- 
 ing rhubarb ; it does not then contain so much 
 water. 
 
 RHUBARB JAM TO IMITATE PRESERVED 
 GINGER. 
 
 Take some young but thick rhubarb, pare it, 
 cut it into two-inch lengths, and weigh it. 
 Place it on dishes in a single layer, and over 
 each pound sprinkle the grated rind of one 
 lemon and one pound of powdered loaf sugar. 
 Let it remain twenty-four hours. The next day 
 boil half a pound of loaf sugar in half a pint of 
 water for ten minutes, pour into this the syrup 
 from the rhubarb, boil it twenty minutes, and 
 add as much grated ginger as will make it 
 pleasantly hot. Put in the pieces of rhubarb, 
 and let them simmer gently until they are 
 tender, without being broken, then lift them 
 out with a spoon one by one, put them into jars, 
 boil the syrup five minutes longer, and pour it 
 over the rhubarb. When cold, tie the jars in the 
 usual \*ay, and store in a cool dry place. Time, 
 two days. Probable cost, 6d. to 8d. per pound. 
 
 RHUBARB MOULD. 
 
 Cut into small lengths as much young rhubarb 
 as will fill a quart measure. Boil this with a 
 pound of loaf sugar, eight bitter almonds, 
 blanched and chopped, and the strained juice 
 and grated rind of half a lemon, and stir it over 
 a brisk fire till it is thick and smooth. Dissolve 
 half an ounce of isinglass or gelatine in two 
 table-spoonfuls of boiling water, stir this into 
 the fruit, and pour the whole into a mould 
 which has been soaked in cold water for a time. 
 Put it into a cool place, or upon ice, and when 
 it is quite firm turn it out, and serve with 
 Devonshire or other cream round it. Time to 
 boil the rhubarb, about half an hour. Probable 
 cost. Is., if made with gelatine. 
 
 RHUBARB PIE. 
 
 Peel the rhubarb, and if it is very large divide 
 it into two or three strips, and then into short 
 lengths. Fill the dish as full as possible, 
 sprinkle some sugar over it, add a small pinch 
 of salt, and, if liked, mix with the fruit a 
 flavouring of grated lemon-peel and ground 
 ginger, or a little nutmeg, grated. Line the 
 edges of the dish with pastry, moisten these 
 with water, and lay a cover of pastry over all. 
 Press the edges closely together and ornament 
 them, then sprinkle a spoonful or two of cold 
 water over the pie and dredge a little white 
 sugar upon it; bake the pie in af well-heated 
 oven until the pastry loosens from the dish. 
 Serve either hot or cold. Time to bake, half an 
 hour to one hour, according to size. 
 
 RHUBARB PUDDING. 
 
 Butter a basin which will hold a pint and a 
 half, and line it with good suet crust rolled 
 out to the thickness of half an inch. Fill it 
 with rhubarb which has been stewed for a 
 quarter of an hour vrith a little moist sugar 
 and the rind of half a lemon. Cover the pudding 
 with pastry, rolled out to the same thickness 
 as the sides, pinch the edges securely, tie the 
 pudding in a cloth, and boil in plenty of water 
 until done enough. The water must not cease 
 boiling. Turn the pudding out carefully, and 
 cut a small opening in the top, that the steam 
 may escape. Send sweetened melted butter 
 or a jug of cream and sifted sugar to table with 
 it. Time to boil, two hours. Probable cost, 
 lOd. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 RHUBARB SHERBET (a wholesome and refreshing 
 beverage). 
 Take as much young rhubarb, which has been 
 cut into short lengths, as will measure half a 
 pint. Boil this in a quart of water for twenty 
 minutes, strain the liquor through muslin, and 
 sweeten with five or six large lumps of sugar, 
 which have been rubbed upon the rind of a small 
 lemon until the flavour has been extracted. Stir 
 the sherbet till the sugar is dissolved, and serve 
 when quite cold. Sufficient for a quart of sher- 
 bet. Probable cost, 2d. per pint. 
 
 RHUBARB SOUP. 
 
 Take half a dozen sticks of fine young rhu- 
 barb, peel them, and cut them into short 
 lengths. Throw these into » quart of good veal 
 or beef stock, and add a moderate sized onion, 
 two thin slices of bread, and a little salt and 
 pepper. Let the liquor boil, remove the scum 
 
RHU 
 
 691 
 
 RHU 
 
 as it ri3es, and simmer the soup gently until 
 the fruit is quite tender. Strain it, and serve 
 ■with toasted sippets. Time to simmer the soup, 
 about half an hour. SufScient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 RHUBARB SOUP, SWEET. 
 
 Boil half a pint of cut rhubarb in a quart of 
 •water, with the rind of half a lemon and two or 
 three thin slices of bread, till the liquor is 
 pleasantly flavoured. Strain and sweeten it, 
 add a glassful of light wine and a little cream, 
 and serve. If liked, the yolks of one or two 
 eggs may be used instead of the cream, but 
 the soup must not boil after the eggs are 
 added. Time, about an hour. Probable cost, 
 exclusive of the wine, 9d. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. 
 
 RHUBARB, STEWED. 
 
 Stewed rhubarb is of two kinds. When it first 
 comes into season it is small, tender, and of a 
 bright red colour, and when stewed makes a 
 very pretty dish. The red rhubarb should be 
 cut into little pieces about two inches long. 
 Very little water will be required, as the rhu- 
 barb contains much moisture. The amount of 
 sugar added depends entirely upon taste. The 
 stewed rhubarb should be sent to table un- 
 broken, and floating in a bright red juice. When 
 rhubarb is old and green it is best served 
 mashed, or like a puree. Old rhubarb is often 
 stringfy, and can with advantage be rubbed 
 through a wire sieve. It is no use attempting 
 to colour old rhubarb red, but its colour can 
 be improved by the addition of a, very little 
 spinach juice. 
 
 RHUBARB TART. 
 
 Cut the large stalks from the leaves, strip 
 off the skin, and divide the fruit into pieces haft 
 an inch long. With a pint of these pieces put 
 half a tea-cupful of water, half a tea-cupful of 
 brown sugar, a small pinch of salt, and a 
 quarter of a nutmeg, grated. Stew the fruit 
 gently until it is quite soft, then beat it with 
 a wooden spoon until it is smooth. Line some 
 small dishes or tartlet-pans with pastry, and 
 spread on this a layer of the stewed fruit a little 
 more than a quarter of an inch deep. Eoll out 
 some pastry, brush it over with yolk of egg 
 beaten up with a spoonful of milk, and cut it 
 into strips a quarter of an inch wide. Lay these 
 across the tart. Lay a band of pastry round 
 the edge of the dish, trim it evenly, and bake 
 the tart in a well-heated oven. When the 
 pastry loosens from the dish it is done enough. 
 Time to bake, half an hour or more. 
 
 RHUBARB TURNOVERS. 
 
 Make a little good pastry, and roll it out to 
 the thickness of a qiuarter of an inch. Stamp it 
 out in rounds from four to six inches in diameter, 
 and lay upon one-half of the pastry a little 
 young rhubarb cut small or a little stewed 
 rhubarb. Add sugar to taste, and sprinkle a 
 little powdered ginger over the fruit. Turn the 
 pastry over, pinch the edges closely together, 
 and brush the turnovers with white of egg. 
 Sprinkle a little powdered white sugar over 
 them, and bake on tins in a brisk oven. Time 
 to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost. 
 Id. each. 
 
 RHUBARB VOL-AU-VENT. 
 
 In the spring of the year this makes a very 
 irviting and wholesome dish, and its qualities 
 purify the blood, which the winter's food has ren- 
 dered gross. Cut about twelve sticks of rhubarb 
 into lengths of one inch, put the fruit into a 
 stewpan holding about two quarts, put over it 
 a quarter of a pound of sugar, and a table- 
 spoonful of water, set it on a sharp fire, stirring 
 it ; do not let it get brown, or it will spoil and 
 lose its flavour ; it will take but a few minutes 
 to do. When tender, put it into a basin to 
 cool ; a few minutes before serving, fill the vol- 
 au-vent with it, and serve cold. 
 
 RHUBARB WINE. 
 
 Take fifty pounds of rhubarb, wipe it with a 
 wet cloth, and bruise it well. The easiest way 
 of doing this is to lay it on a clean table, and 
 crush it with a flat-iron. Put it into a tub or 
 bowl, and pour over it ten gallons of cold water ; 
 let it remain nine days, stirring two or three 
 times a day. Strain off the liquor, and to each 
 gallon put three pounds of loaf sugar, the juice 
 of a lemon, and half of the rind. Put it in the 
 cask with two ounces of isinglass, and leave it 
 unstopped for a month, then bung it up, and let 
 it stand in a very cool but not damp place for 
 twelve months, when it will be ready for 
 bottling. A little brandy may be added to the 
 wine, if liked, but it is quite unnecessary. The 
 middle of May is the best time for making 
 rhubarb wine, as the fruit is then full of sap. 
 Time, six weeks to prepare. Probable cost, 
 varying with the price of the rhubarb. A 
 quantity of rhubarb at this time of the year 
 ought to be got for very little. Sufiicient for 
 about eighteen gallons of wine. 
 
 RHUBARB WINE (another way). 
 
 Cut five pounds of rhubarb into short lengths, 
 bruise it, and put it into a bowl with a gallon of 
 cold water. Let it stand for five days, and stir 
 it twice a day. Strain off the liquor, and add to 
 it four pounds of loaf sugar. When this is 
 dissolved add the rind of a lemon and half an 
 ounce of isinglass. Let the liquor remain for 
 four or five days, until the fermentation begins 
 to subside. Skim the crust from the surface, 
 draw off the wine, put it into a cask, and in » 
 fortnight bung it down. It will be ready for 
 bottling in six months. If the wine ferment 
 after it is put into the cask, it should be drawn 
 off into another one. The addition of a little 
 currant juice will improve the colour. 
 
 RHUBARB WINE (another way). 
 
 To forty pounds of freshly-cut juicy rhubarb- 
 stalks, sliced but not peeled, put ten gallons of 
 cold soft water, and let them steep two days, 
 closely covered up. Take off the scum, press 
 the juice out of the fruit, strain the liquor 
 through a sieve, and put it to twenty-five 
 pounds of good loaf sugar roughly broken. Stir 
 it well for twenty minutes, and when the sugar 
 is dissolved fill your cask, put on the bung 
 lightly, or cover with a tile, and when it has 
 ceased fermenting, add to it three pints of white 
 French brandy, and half a pound of white sugar- 
 candy. Then stop it up well with paper pasted 
 over the bung and sand upon that; leave the 
 vent-peg out a day or two only. . Let the liquor 
 
RHU 
 
 692 
 
 RIC 
 
 stand two or three months, then rack it off. Filter 
 the lees perfectly clear, and return all into the 
 cask again, adding the thin yellow rinds of four 
 Seville oranges, and six ounces of the best 
 barley-sugar, dissolved with an ounce of isin- 
 glass in two quarts of the wine. Then stop up 
 the cask again as before, and let it remain 
 a year in a cool cellar ; you may then bottle the 
 wine, using the best corksi fastening them with 
 wire; seal with green wax, and when it has 
 been kept nine months longer it will be ex- 
 cellent. 
 
 RHUBARB WINE (another way). 
 
 Take three pounds of sliced rhubarb, one 
 ounce of cardamom - seeds, bruised, half an 
 ounce of bruised ginger, and a pint and a half 
 of any desired spirit. Digest for three days, 
 and then add of any white wine, two gallons. 
 
 RIBAND BLANCMANGE. 
 
 Make as much blancmange as is required to 
 fill the moulds. Divide this into as many por- 
 tions as it is intended to have different colours. 
 Many persons will prefer two colours, red and 
 white only, others will wish to have also green, 
 chocolate, and yellow. Put a. little of the 
 blancmange an inch deep into an oiled mould. 
 Let it get perfectly cold and firm, then pour in 
 a little of a different colour to the same depth. 
 When this is firm, add a third, and continue 
 until the mould is full. Put the mould in a 
 cold place until wanted, and turn it out care- 
 fully. The rose-colour may be produced by 
 adding two or three drops of cochineal to the 
 blancmange, chocolate-colour with boiled choco- 
 late, green with spinach-juice, yellow with 
 saffron or yolk of egg. The riband will be spoilt 
 unless each colour is allowed to get quite firm 
 before another is poured upon it. 
 
 RIBAND CAKE. 
 
 \ (See EiBBON Cake.) 
 
 RIBAND JELLY OF TWO COLOURS. 
 
 Take as much clear, bright calf's foot or isin- 
 
 -glass jelly, properly flavoured, as is required for 
 
 use. Be careful to use very pale jelly, or the 
 
 colours will not contrast prettily. Divide it 
 
 N into two portions, and colour one portion with 
 
 , two or three drops of cochineal. Pour a layer 
 
 of red an inch deep into a damped mould. Let 
 
 this get perfectly firm, then add a layer the 
 
 same depth of pale jelly, and repeat until the 
 
 mould is fuU. The mould should, if possible, be 
 
 placed upon ice as each layer is added. Unless 
 
 this can be done the jelly will be a long time 
 
 getting stiff. 
 
 RIBANDS, POTATO. 
 
 Peel four or five large potatoes. Throw them 
 into cold water for a few minutes, and dry them 
 with a cloth. Cut them round and round into 
 thin strips or ribands till the centre is reached, 
 and fry them in plenty of boiling fat until they 
 are brightly browned. Drain them well, 
 sprinkle a little pepper and salt over them, and 
 serve very hot. Time to fry, eight to ten 
 minutes. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 RIBAND WAFERS. 
 
 Rub three or four lumps of sugar upon two 
 large fresh lemons until all the yellow part is 
 
 taken off. Crush the sugar to powder, and 
 make the weight up to one pound. Mix with 
 this three-quarters of a pound of fine flour, and 
 add gradually nine eggs, which have been 
 thoroughly beaten, the yolks and whites first 
 separately and afterwards together. Eoll the 
 pastry out till it is as thin as a shilling. Stamp 
 it in rounds the size of the top of a tumbler, lay 
 these upon well-buttered tins, and place in a 
 quick oven. When half baked, take the wafers 
 out, roll them round the finger to the form of a 
 scroll, and return them to the oven to crisp. 
 Time to bake, ten to fifteen minutes. 
 
 RIBBON CAKE. 
 
 Mix well together half a pound of butter, 
 one pound of castor sugar, half a jpint of milk, 
 four eggs, one pound and a half of flour, a 
 tea-spoonful of cream of tartar, and half a tea- 
 spoonful of carbonate of soda. Divide the mix- 
 ture into three parts. To one part add a cupful 
 of raisins, picked carefully over, two table- 
 spoonfuls of golden syrup, a quarter of a pound 
 of chopped lemon-peel, and a tea-spoonful 
 each of ground cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg. 
 Bake each part in a shallow round tin, and when 
 they are done, and while still hot, place the 
 cake with the fruit in it between the two others, 
 putting white of egg between them to make 
 them stick together. Sprinkle white icing sugar 
 on top. 
 
 RIBS OF BEEF, TO CARVE. 
 
 (See Beep, Eibs op, to Cabve.) 
 
 RIBSTON PIPPIN. 
 
 The following is a description of the Eibston 
 Pippin given by a leading authority. " Skin 
 pale yellow, russety in the crown and round the 
 stalk, and mottled thinly with dull red on the 
 sunny side. Flesh pale yellow, firm, crisp. 
 Juice, saccharine, with a pungent, rich, and de- 
 licious aromatic flavour. A dessert apple from 
 October to April, but it is generally in its 
 greatest perfection when it has been gathered 
 a month or six weeks. The Eibston pippin may 
 be truly said to be one of the best, and cer- 
 tainly is one of the most popular dessert apples 
 of the present day, as well known as the golden 
 pippin and the nonpariel, and a greater number 
 of trees of it are sold by nurserymen throughout 
 England than of both these sorts put together. 
 It was raised, according to traditionary ac- 
 counts, frome some pips which were brought 
 from Rouen, about the year 1688, and sown in 
 the garden at Eibston Hall, near Knares- 
 borough, in the county of York." 
 
 RICARDO SAUCE FOR GAME, ETC. 
 
 Take any bones of cold roast game that may 
 be left from a previous dressing, chop them into 
 small pieces, and dredge a table-spoonful of 
 flour over them. Slice four moderate-sized onions, 
 and fry them in butter until they are lightly 
 browned without being burnt; put them into 
 a clean saucepan with the bones, half a pint of 
 stock made from bones, a quarter of a tea- 
 spoonful of Bovril, a crust of toasted bread, a 
 glassful of sherry, and a little pepper and salt. 
 Stir the sauce over the fire till done enough, rub 
 it through a fine sieve, heat it again,' and serve. 
 Time, a quarter of an hour to simmer the sauce. 
 Suificieut for six or eight persons. 
 
RIC 
 
 693 
 
 RIC 
 
 RICE. 
 
 Bice forms a most useful and valuable article 
 of farinaceous food. It is light, nourishing, 
 easy of digestion, and cheap. It has a ten- 
 dfency to constipate the bowels, therefore it is 
 freely given in cases of diarrhoea. In hot 
 countries it is largely used. Of the varieties 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■1 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 ->. , 
 
 w^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 1W:£ A LA KONXE FEMME. 
 
 of rice, Carolina is the best, largest, and most 
 expensive. Patna rice is almost as good; the 
 grains are small, long, and white.' Patna rice 
 IS chiefly used for curries. Madras rice is the 
 cheapest. 
 
 In this country rice is very greatly under- 
 valued as an article of food. In times of 
 scarcity it has been used as a partial substi- 
 tute for flour. Ground rice is used for pud- 
 dings, blancmanges, cakes, and custards. Kice 
 ehould be kept very closely covered to keep 
 insects from it. 
 RICE (4 la Bonne Femme). 
 
 Wash six ounces of rice, throw it into plenty 
 of fast-boiling water, and let it boil quickly for 
 five minutes, then drain, and cool it. Cut four 
 ounces of streaky bacon into dice, and fry these 
 in a little butter until the colour begins to turn. 
 Throw in the rice, dredge pepper lightly over it, 
 and pour upon it a pint and a half of good 
 broth. Let it boil till tender, stirring occa- 
 sionally to prevent it burning. Have ready half 
 a pint of hot tomato sauce. Pour out the rice, 
 mix it thoroughly with the sauce, and pile the 
 mixture liglitly on a dish in the form of a 
 pyramid. Place fried sausages round the rice, 
 and serve very hot. Time to boil the rice, about 
 half an hour. Probable cost. Is. 6d., exclusive 
 of the sausages. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 RICE (4 la Chicago). 
 
 Take half a pound of good rice, wash it, and 
 pick out all the faulty grains. Put a gallon of 
 water in a large saucepan, add a table-spoonful 
 of salt, and a large onion previously scalded; 
 then bring the water to boiling point. Put the 
 rice in a thin cloth, in the form of a bag, place 
 it in the saucepan over the water, which it must 
 not touch, and let the edges of the cloth hang 
 outside; then put on the lid, which will hold 
 the bag in position. Let the water boil fast till 
 the rice is tender, then turn it into a clean 
 
 saucepan, and add a tea-spoonfftl each of mixed 
 mustard, grated horse-radish, chopped parsley i 
 and lemon-juice. Chop the onion taken from the 
 boiling water, and add it, along with a gill 
 of brown stock thickened with a heaped tea- 
 spoonful of arrowroot. Stir for a few minutes, 
 pile on a hot dish, and send to table with beef 
 or veal. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 RICE (k ntalienne). 
 
 No. l.^Wash half a pound of rice in several 
 waters. Throw it into boiling water, and let 
 it boil until tender. Drain and dry it. Wash 
 and drain a moderate-sized cabbage, and shred 
 it finely. Melt a slice of fresh butter in a 
 saucepan, fry in this four ounces of streaky 
 bacon cut into dice, and add the shredded cab- 
 bage, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a 
 little pepper and salt. A clove of garlic and 
 a sprig of fennel may be also added, if liked. 
 Cover the saucepan closely, and stew the cab- 
 bage as gently as possible for three quarters of 
 an hour. Put in the boiled rice, stew the whole 
 a quarter of an hour longer, and serve the pre- 
 paration piled high on a hot dish with grated 
 Parmesan or Cheddar cheese sprinkled over the 
 top. No 2. — Boil half a pound of rice, drain 
 and dry it as above. Melt an ounce of butter 
 in a frying-pan, fry in this a moderate-sized 
 onion chopped small, and add the dry rice, the 
 pulp of three baked potatoes, an ounce of grated 
 Parmesan or Cheddar cheese, and a little pepper 
 and salt. When the mixture is thoroughly 
 heated pile it on a hot dish. Lay on the surface 
 some filleted anchovies or sardines, and serve 
 immediately. No. 3. — Boil and dry the rice as 
 . above. Pry a chopped onion with a spoonful 
 of salad-oil or an ounce of fresh butter till 
 lightly browned. Add two tea-spoonfuls of 
 curry-paste and half a pint of picked shrimps, 
 and stir these over the fire for four or five 
 minutes. Throw in the boiled rice and one 
 ounce of grated Parmesan or Cheddar, and serve 
 the preparation quite hot. No. 4. — Boil and 
 dry the rice as above. Fry it in hot fat, and 
 mix with it any remains of fish, meat, or poultry 
 that may be at hand, being careful first to divide 
 these into small pieces. Season with pepper, 
 salt, and grated nutmeg, add a spoonful of 
 Parmesan or other cheese, and serve very hot. 
 
 RICE (k la Lucknow). 
 
 Put four ounces of blanched Carolina rice in 
 a stewpan with one and a half ounces of butter, 
 a bay-leaf, and half a pint of the liquor from a 
 boiled fowl or rabbit. Lay a buttered paper 
 over and cook for an hour and a half, adding 
 more liquor as required. Season with pepper, 
 salt, and a pinch of ground coriander-seed and 
 cloves. Put this in little heaps round a hot 
 dish. Cut some onions into dice and fry to a 
 nice brown, and add a good seasoning of chut- 
 ney. Put a little of this in between the heaps 
 of rice. Fill in the centre with a pile of 
 browned rice (see Rice, Beowned). This is a 
 tasty dish either alone or with rechauffes of cold 
 meat, game, or poultry. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 RICE (k la Milanaise). 
 
 Boil half a pound of rice as for curry, and dry 
 it. Fry in hot fat over a slow fire till it begins 
 to colour, and guard very carefully against its 
 burning. Mix with it as much grated Parmesan 
 
RIC 
 
 691 
 
 RiC 
 
 as will flavour it thoroughly, and add cold 
 cookad fowl, fish, game, or shell-fish, torn into 
 shreds with two forks. Season with pepper and 
 salt, and serve hot. Bice a la Milanaise is s6nie- 
 times fried in fat till it is lightly coloured, then 
 simmered until tender in as much broth as will 
 cover it, flavoured with Parmesan, and served 
 instead of soup. 
 
 RICE (k la Soeur). 
 
 Wash half a pound of rice in two or three 
 waters. Place it in a large saucepan with 
 plenty of salted water, and boil quickly till 
 tender, and in order to ascertain when this point 
 is reached try the grains occasionally with the 
 finger and thumb. Pour off the water, and shake 
 the saucepan over the fire till the rice is dry. Add 
 a slice of fresh butter, and a little grated nut- 
 meg, pepper, and salt, and when these ingre- 
 dients are mixed with the rice put in also the 
 white meat of a dried haddock torn into flakes 
 with two forks, and the whites of three hard- 
 boiled eggs chopjped small. Pile this mixture 
 on a hot dish, sprinkle over the top the yolks of 
 the eggs, which have been rubbed through a 
 wire sieve and mixed with an equal quantity 
 of grated Parmesan, and put the dish in the 
 oven for a few minutes till the surface is lightly 
 browned. Serve very hot. Time to boil the 
 rice, ten minutes or more. Probable cost. Is. 4d. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 RICE . (4 la Tretnain). 
 
 Chop up a medium-sized onion, fry it as dark 
 as possible without burning. Then, after drain- 
 ing the fat off, stir into it half a pint of gravy 
 made from the bones of any cooked game, add 
 half a glass of sherry, a tea-spoonful of black 
 currant jelly, and a small piece of glaze. Sim- 
 mer for ten minutes, and rub through a hair 
 sieve. Take as much browned rice (see Rice, 
 Beowned) as will fill a breakfast cup, pile it on 
 to a dish, pour the sauce ovdr, and mix lightly 
 with two forks. Have ready four hard-boiled 
 eggs (plovers' or pheasants' are best), quarter 
 them, and put them round the base. Sprinkle 
 the top with small dice-shaped croiitons, and 
 serve as a savoury. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 RICE (k la Trinidad). 
 
 Boil together four ounces of rice and a pint 
 and a half of milk; sv^'teten to taste and add 
 two ounces of grated cocoa-nut, fresh or dried. 
 Stir in a gill of cream, then pour the mixture 
 into a plain border mould, and set on ice to 
 stiffen. Turn out when set, and garnish the 
 top of the border with claret jelly (see Wine 
 Jelly, Claret). This may either be chopped or 
 put into tiny fancy moulds. Fill the centre 
 with whipped cream flavoured with vanilla and 
 coloured pink with a few drops of cochineal. 
 On the top sprinkle a little more cocoa-nut with 
 a pinch of chopped pistachios. Garnish the 
 base with pink and green candied fruits. 
 Probable cost. Is. 9d. 
 
 RICE {k la Turque). 
 
 No. 1. — Wash half a pound of rice in two or 
 three waters. Throw it into a saucepan of boil- 
 ing water, and boil quickly for five minutes. 
 Drain and dry it. Slice an onion, and fry in hot 
 fat till it is lightly browned. Take it out and 
 fry the rice in the same butter over a irentle fire. 
 
 turning it about continually to keep it from 
 burning. When it is lightly coloured, pour 
 over it three pints of good gravy soup, lightly 
 tinged with saffron powder, and let it simmer 
 gently till tender. Add to the soup a slight 
 seasoning of salt and cayenne, a thickening of 
 flour and butter, and as much grated Parmesan 
 as will season it. Boil the whole gently for ten 
 minutes, and serve as hot as possible in a soup 
 tureen. No. 2. — Boil and dry the rice as above. 
 Melt a slice of butter in a frying-pan, and fry 
 in this the rice, first colouring it slightly 
 with ground saffron, and seasoning with salt 
 and cayenne. As the rice will burn very easily, 
 it should be fried over a gentle fire, and should 
 be thrown in just as the butter begins to sim- 
 mer. When it is lightly browned throw in two 
 table-spoonfuls of raisins, picked and cleaned. 
 Serve very hot. The rice must be boiled until 
 it is tender but unbroken. 
 
 RICE, AMERICAN MODE OF COOKING. 
 
 Take a nice clean stewpan, with a closely- 
 fitting lid. Have ready a clean piece of white 
 cloth, large enough to co^er over the top of the 
 stewpan, and hang down inside nearly to, but 
 not in contact with, the bottom, and thus form 
 a sort of sack, into which put the rice. Pour 
 over it two cupfuls of water, and then put on 
 the lid of the stewpan so as to hold up the 
 cloth inside and fit tight all round. Put the 
 stewpan on the fire, and the steam generated by 
 the water will cook the rice to perfection. Add 
 more water, but only just enough to keep up 
 the steam. 
 
 RICE AND ALMOND MOULD. 
 
 Wash six ounces of best Carolina rico in one or 
 two waters. Drain it and put it into a per- 
 fectly clean saucepan with a quart of milk, 
 three table-spoonfuls of sugar, two ounces of 
 sweet almonds, and four bitter ones, which have 
 been blanched and pounded to a smooth paste. 
 Simmer the rice gently until it is quite tender. 
 Beat it for two or three minutes with a wooden 
 spoon, and press it into a damp mould. Let it 
 stand in a cold place for four or five hours. 
 Turn it out carefully, ornament it with bright- 
 coloured jam or jelly of any kind, pour a quarter 
 of a pint of cream or good custard over it, and 
 it is ready for serving. Time to simmer the 
 rice, a little more than an hour. Probable 
 cost, 9d., exclusive of the cream and jam. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 RICE, ANDALUSIAN. 
 
 This dish, which is one very commonly served 
 in Spain and Portugal, is valued as a tonic 
 during the heats of summer, and is also recom- 
 mended as a preventative of intestinal indis- 
 position : it is peculiar, but the taste for it is 
 an easily acquired one. Warm in a saucepan 
 half a pint of best olive-oil or half a pound of 
 fresh butter. Throw in half a pound of picked 
 rice, and one pound or one pound and a half of 
 veal or poultry flesh, cut into neat squares. 
 Add half a pint of tomato sauce, or three or four 
 fresh tomatoes, one or two chopped onions, a 
 table-spoonful of shredded parsley, a pinch of 
 powdered saffron, and a little pepper, salt, and 
 cayenne. In Spain a clove of garlic is always 
 added. Stir these ingredients into the warm 
 oil, and let them stew gently for ten minutes; 
 
RIC 
 
 695 
 
 RIC; 
 
 pour over them a pint of stock or water, 
 cover the saucepan oloselj, and let them sim- 
 mer gently until the rice has absorbed the 
 liqvior. Throw the whole into a heated strainer 
 for a minute to drain off any oil that may be 
 left, and pile the rice, which will be a bright 
 yellow colour, upon a hot dish. Hold a red- 
 hot shovel or salamander over the top for a 
 minute or two to brown the surface, and send 
 the dish to table with cut lemons, that each 
 guest may squeeze a little juice over his plate. 
 Time, half to three-quarters of an hour to sim- 
 mer the rice. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. 
 RICE AND APPLE CAKE. 
 
 Take half a pound of rice, boil it in milk till 
 tender and in a thick mass, adding sugar, 
 grated lemon-peel, and a cupful of peach-water, 
 or flavour wifii two spoonfuls of orange-flower 
 water and one ounce of pounded bitter almonds. 
 Stir the mixture well, that it may not burn. 
 Peel twelve large apples, slice them thin, and 
 stew them in a glassful of wine and a little 
 water, adding some sugar and grated lemon- 
 peel. Let them stew till they become a fine 
 marmalade. When the apples and rice are both 
 cold, take a cake-form, cover it thinly with rice, 
 spread the apples over it, spread rice again 
 about the thickness of a quarter of an inch, 
 then apples, and so on, the last layer being rice. 
 Set the cake in the oven for a quarter of an 
 hour, turn it out when cold, and send to table 
 with punch or custard sauce poured over it. 
 
 RICE AND APPLE PUDDING. 
 
 Throw half a pound of rice into boiling water, 
 let it boil for ten minutes, drain, and dry it. 
 Spread half of it on a pudding-cloth, and lay 
 vipon it six or eight apples, pared, cored and 
 sliced, the thin rind of half a lemon, and two 
 table-spoonfuls of sugar. Spread the remainder 
 of the rice over the fruit, draw the cloth loosely 
 over it, and tie it securely. Be careful to allow 
 plenty of room for the rice to swell. Plunge the 
 pudding into boiling water, and keep it boiling 
 until done enough. It will be well to put a 
 plate under it to keep it from sticking. Turn it 
 out carefully, and send to table with a small 
 quantity of sweet sauce poured round the pud- 
 ding, and more in a tureen. Time to boil, an 
 hour and three-quarters to two hours. Prob- 
 able cost, 7d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 RICE AND APPLES. 
 
 Simmer sis ounces of rice in a quart of milk 
 till it is tender and has absorbed the liquor. 
 Sweeten it, and flavour with grated nutmeg or 
 grated lemon-rind. Pare eight or. ten large 
 apples, quarter and core them, and lay them in 
 a saucepan with the chopped rind and strained 
 juice of a large fresh lemon, four table-spoonfuls 
 of powdered sugar, and a wine-glassful of water. 
 Let them simmer gently until they are tender, 
 then drain them on a sieve. They must not be 
 allowed to break. Spread the rice on a dish, 
 and make it slightly hollow in the centre. Lay 
 part of the apples upon it, spread more rice over 
 these, then add more apples, and repeat until the 
 ingredieats are used, and the rice has assumed 
 the form of a pyramid. Boil the juice which 
 drained from the apples to a thick syrup, and 
 pour this hot over the whole. Garnish the dish 
 
 prettily with angelica or with lemon or orange- 
 rind cut into strips and stewed in th^ syrup. 
 Serve either hot or cold. Time, three-quarters 
 of an hour to simmer the rice, half an hour to 
 stew the apples. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 RICE AND APPLES (another way). , 
 
 Boil six ounces of rice in a quart of milk till 
 tender; sweeten and flavour agreeably. Pare 
 six or eight medium-sized apples, scoop out the 
 cores, and fill the cavities with sugar, butter, 
 and lemon-rind. Lay the apples in a thickly- 
 buttered dish, and put the rice round them. 
 Brush the surface with yolk of egg, and sift 
 powdered sugar thickly over it. Place the dish 
 in a brisk oven, and bake the preparation until 
 the apples are tender and the rice is brightly 
 browned. Serve hot or cold. Time to bake, 
 one hour. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 
 RICE AND APPLES (another way). 
 (Sec Apples and Eicb.) 
 
 RICE AND APRICOT PUDDING. 
 
 Wash one pound of rice. Drain it, and put it 
 into a saucepan with three pints of boiling milk, 
 a slice of fresh butter, and three table-spoon- 
 fuls of sugar. Lfet it simmer gently for an hour. 
 Pour it out, and when it is partially cooled stir 
 into it three well-beaten eggs. Take a dozen 
 and a half of preserved apricots. Halve them, 
 simmer them in a little thin syrup for five 
 minutes, and drain them. Butter a plain pud- 
 ding mould, and sprinkle bread-crumbs over the 
 butter. Place in the mould a layer of rice an 
 inch thick. Put on this some pieces of apricot, 
 and fill the mould with alternate layers of rice 
 and fruit. Bake the pudding in a moderately- 
 heated oven. When it is done enough, turn it 
 out carefully, and serve with a good custard 
 poured round it. If preferred, other fruits may 
 be used instead of apricots. Pineapple or apple 
 are especially suitable. Time to bake, about an 
 hour. Probable coat, varying with the price of 
 fruit. Sufficient for half a dozen persona. 
 
 RICE AND BARLEY PORRIDGE. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of rice, and a 
 quarter of a pound of Scotch barley, aiid wash 
 them thoroughly. Boil the rice and barley 
 gently for three or four hours, with salt to 
 taste, strain them off, and boil them up again 
 in a little milk for a short time before they are 
 wanted. It will often be found best to boil the 
 barley for a couple of hours and then add the 
 rice. This porridge may b-J eaten >vith milk, 
 cream, sugar, or jam, and cold forms an agree- 
 able adjunct to stewed fruit. Probable cost, 4d. 
 
 RICE AND CABBAGE. 
 
 Wash some rice and let it soak in hot water, 
 with a cabbage sliced up, for about an hour; 
 then strain it off and put the rice and cabbage 
 in a stewpan with some butter, a little pepper 
 and salt, and about a quarter of a nutmeg, 
 grated. Toss these about for ten or fifteen 
 minutes over the fire, but do not let them turn 
 colour. Add a small quantity of water or stock, 
 let it stew till it is tender, and then serve it 
 very hot with grated cheese sprinkled over the 
 top. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
RIC 
 
 696 
 
 RlC 
 
 RICE AND CHEESE. 
 
 Wash some rice and boil it for ten or eleven 
 minutes in milk (the propoition being a tea- 
 cupful of rice to two breakfast-cupfuls of milk), 
 and let it stand till it has soaked up all the 
 milk. Mix in some grated cheese and a little 
 pepper and salt, place the mixture in a pie- 
 dish, cover the top with grated cheese, and puice 
 the pie-dish in the oven and bake till the top 
 of the pudding is nicely browned. 
 
 RICE AND CHICKEN. 
 
 Wash half a pound of rice in two or three 
 waters, throw it into boiling water, and let it 
 boil gently for a quarter of an hour. Drain it 
 on a sieve. Truss a plump young chicken for 
 boiling. Put it into a stewpan with the rice, 
 a slice of butter, a pinch of salt, six or eight 
 peppercorns, and a small onion. Pour in as 
 much veal stock or water as will cover the fowl 
 and the rice, cover the saucepan closely, bring 
 the liquor to the boil, then draw the saucepan 
 to the side, and let all simmer very gently until 
 the chicken is done enough. Take it up, and 
 keep it hot. Strain the rice, and let it swell 
 for a minute or two on a sieve before the fire. 
 Strain the gravy, thicken it with a little flour 
 and butter, add a quarter of a pint of cream, 
 and further seasoning if required, then heat it 
 again. Serve the fowl in the centre of a dish, 
 with the rice neatly arranged round it, a little 
 of the sauce poured over it, and the rest in a 
 tureen. Serve immediately. Time to simmer 
 the chicken, half an hour to three-quarters of 
 an hour from the time the stock boils. Prob- 
 able cost, 5s. or more, according to the price of 
 the chicken. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 RICE AND CHICKEN (another way). 
 
 Boil a chicken and a quarter of a pound of 
 rice as in the preceding recipe. Drain off the rice 
 and beat it thoroughly till quite smooth, with 
 a slice of butter, a little pepper, salt, and grated 
 nutmeg, and as much curry-powder as will make 
 it a bright yellow colour. Spread part of the 
 rice on a dish, lay the fowl upon it, and put 
 the rest of the rice round it, leaving the breast 
 uncovered. Make the surface of the rice smooth, 
 and place upon it a border of hard-boiled eggs 
 cut into quarters lengthwise. Strain the gravy 
 in which the rice was boiled, and serve in a 
 tureen. 
 
 RICE AND CHICKEN {k Ja Creole). 
 
 Wash half a pound of rice in two or 
 three waters, throw it into boiling water, and 
 boil quickly until it is quite tender. Drain it, 
 and put it on a sieve before the fire to swell. 
 Divide two young chickens into neat joints con- 
 venient for serving, sprinkle over these a season- 
 ing made with two crushed cloves, ten powdered 
 peppercorns, and a pinch of ground saffron, 
 and fry in hot fat till they are lightly and 
 equally browned all oyer. Take them up, and 
 in the same fat fry thirty small onions finely 
 chopped. As soon as the onions turn yellow, drain 
 and put them into a saucepan with the fried 
 fowl, and pour over all as much veal stock as 
 will cover them. Let all simmer gently together 
 until the chicken is done enough. Put the 
 pieces of chicken on a dish, thicken the gravy 
 with a spoonful of brown thickening, and pour 
 
 it over them : serve the rice on a separate dish. 
 The rice and the chicken should be stewed at 
 the same time, that they may be suilicieutly 
 cooked and hot together. Time to simmer the 
 chicken, about forty minutes. Probable cost of 
 chickens, 2s. 6d. each, when in full season. 
 Sufficient for seven or eight persons. 
 
 RICE AND COCOA-NUT PUDDING. 
 
 Wash and pick four ounces of rice, and soak 
 in cold water till the grains are soft. Put two 
 ounces of desiccated cocoa-nut in a basin, pour 
 over it half a pint of boiling water, cover it with 
 a plate, and let it stand for an n.^ur or longer. 
 Strain the cocoa-nut extract, throwing away the 
 dry residuum ; boil the rice in the cocoa-nut 
 water until quite tender, mix in three ounces of 
 sugar, and a few grains of aniseed, and bake for 
 twenty minutes in a well-buttered pudding-dish. 
 Probable coat, 6d. 
 
 RICE AND EGG SOUP (a Danish recipe). 
 
 Make a bouillon, and strain it; set it again 
 on the fire with a quarter of a pound of scalded 
 rice; let it boil till quite tender, then beat up 
 the yolks of four or six eggs, and stir them in. 
 The soup must not boil after the eggs are added. 
 Send to table with toasted bread. 
 
 RICE AND EGG STEW. 
 
 Wash a quarter of a pound of rice, and put 
 it on to boil in cold milk and weak stock, a pint 
 of each. Cook until the liquid is nearly dried 
 up, then add a seasoning of salt and pepper, an 
 ounce of butter, and a grate of nutmeg. Finish 
 the cooking, take the pan from the fire, and 
 beat in two raw eggs. The rice will take about 
 an hour and a half to cook, and should resemble 
 rice pudding in consistency. If liked, an onion 
 can be cooked and chopped, and added before 
 serving. By thinning with some stock an ex- 
 cellent soup is obtained. Probable cost, 9d. 
 
 RICE AND GINGER FRITTERS. 
 
 Boil a tea-cupful of rice in two breakfast-cup- 
 fuls of milk, add some preserved ginger chopped 
 small, sugar to taste, and two beaten eggs. 
 Mix well, and pour into a pie-dish. Bake till 
 set, then cut into slices about two inches long, 
 an inch wide, and half an inch thick. Dry these 
 pieces with powdered sugar, dip into batter, 
 and throw one at a time into a saucepan contain- 
 ing smoking hot oil in which a wire frying- 
 basket has been placed. Directly the fritters 
 are a nice brown take them out, shake some 
 finely-powdered sugar over them, pile up on a 
 dish, and serve. Probable cost, 9d. 
 
 RICE AND GOOSEBERRY PUDDING. 
 
 (See GOOSEBERET AND RiCE PuDDING.) 
 RICE AND GREEN PEA SOUP (a French recipe). 
 
 Take a sufficient quantity of rice, and wash it 
 four or five times in moderately warm water. 
 Add some thin stock, and boil for an hour and 
 a half. When the rice is cooked, add, about an 
 hour and a half before serving the soup, some 
 puree of green peas, taking care that they are 
 well mixed, and aretueither too thick nor too 
 thin. 
 
 RICE AND INDIAN CURRY. 
 
 Wash half a pound of Patna rice in two or 
 three waters. Drain it, and throw it into plenty 
 
Rl6 
 
 697 
 
 RIC 
 
 of cold water, bring it slowly to the boil, keej)- 
 ing the saucepan uncovered, and let it boil 
 gently until the grains are tender when pressed 
 between the thumb and finger, but are still 
 quite distinct from one another. The rice will 
 need to boil about a quarter of an hour. Drain 
 and dry it on a sieve before the fire. Take 
 two pounds of uncooked meat of any kind^ or 
 of rabbit, chicken, or fish, and cut this up 
 into neat pieces convenient for serving. Slice 
 two large onions, and fry them in butter till 
 they are lightly browned without being at 
 all burnt. Take them up, and fry the meat in 
 the same fat, moving it about to keep it from 
 burning. Mix a dessert - spoonful of curry- 
 paste, a dessert-spoonful of curry-powder, and a 
 tea-spoonful of ground rice very smoothly with 
 a cupful of milk. Pour this over the meat, and 
 add half a pint of good stock made from bones, 
 the fried onions, a little salt, and a clove of 
 garlic, if this is liked, but the curry will be 
 more generally acceptable if the garlic is 
 omitted. Stir the sauce till it boils, and simmer 
 all gently together till the meat is tender. The 
 time required will vary with the nature of the 
 meat. Put the pieces of meat on a dish. Lift 
 out the pieces of onion, and stir into the curry 
 the juice of half a lemon. Pour the sauce over 
 the meat, and serve. Send the rice to table on 
 a separate dish. It should be arranged that the 
 curry and the rice shall be done enough at the 
 same time. Time, altogether, about two hours. 
 Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 RICE AND MACAROON PUDDING. 
 
 Wash a quarter of a pound of rice, and boil it 
 in a pint and a half of milk till it is tender, 
 and has absorbed the liquor. Boil with it the 
 rind of half a lemon or three or four bitter 
 almonds, to flavour it. Turn it into a Jiasin to 
 cool. Beat three ounces of fresh butter to 
 cream. Mix with this three ounces of powdered 
 sugar, and the well-beaten yolks of four eggs. 
 Stir in the rice, and add the whites of the eggs 
 whisked to a firm froth. Butter a pudding- 
 iiiould rather thickly. Put in this a layer of 
 rice, then a layer of macaroons, and repeat until 
 the mould is full. Lay a buttered paper on the 
 top of the pudding, tie it in a cloth, and steam 
 until done enough. Turn it out carefully, and 
 send raspberry or red currant sauce to table with 
 the pudding. About three ounces of macaroons 
 will be required. Time to steam the pudding, 
 two hours. Probable cost. Is. 9d. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 
 RICE AND MILK. 
 
 Wash a pound of rice, drain it, and simmer in 
 five pints of water till it forms a thick paste. 
 Stir it into a quart of milk, add treacle or sugar, 
 with flavouriUg, or, if preferred, pepper and 
 salt. Boil for a few minutes, and serve hot. 
 Time, five minutes to boil the rice with the milk. 
 Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Probable 
 cost, 8d. 
 
 RICE AND ONION SOUP. 
 
 Brown Soup. — Cut six onions into pieces the 
 size and shape of dice, an^ fry them in butter 
 until they are nicely browned. Pour over them 
 as niuch stock as will cover them, and let them 
 simmer gently till tender. Bub them through 
 a sieve, add to the pulp two quarts of good 
 
 stock, put the whole back into the stewp&n, with 
 four ounces of well-washed rice, and simmer all 
 gently together until the rice is tender. Add 
 salt and white pepper, and serve. ' I?i boiling 
 the soup, be careful first to skim it thoroughly, 
 audi after the fat is removed, to stir the soup 
 frequently. The flavour of this soup may be 
 pleasantly varied by frying four carrots, two 
 turnips, six leeks, and a little root of parsley 
 with the onions. White Soup. — Mix six chop- 
 ped onions with four ounces ol soaked rice. 
 Boil the whole till tender in two quarts of veal 
 or chicken broth ; season with pepper, salt, and 
 a pinch of powdered mace. When the soup is 
 done enough, stir into it one-third of the quan- 
 tity of boiling milk. Let it boil up, and it will 
 be ready for serving. Time, one hour and a 
 half to two hours. Sufficient for six or eight 
 persons. 
 
 RICE AND TAPIOCA PUDDING. 
 
 Butter a pie-dish, and lay in it a tea-cupful 
 of mixed rice and tapioca, a little more of the 
 former than of the latter. Sprinkle over this two 
 table-spoonfuls'' of powdered white sugar and a 
 little grated nutmeg, and pour over it three 
 pints of cold milk. Place a piece of butter the 
 size of a fourpenny-piece on the top of the milk, 
 and bake the pudding in a gentle oven. Time 
 to bake, three or four hours. Probable cost, lOd. 
 Sufficient for half a dozen persons. 
 
 RICE AND TOMATOES. 
 
 Take half a dozen ripe toniatoes, squeeze out 
 the pips, and put them in a tin in the oven, with 
 a little butter, to bake. Baste them occa- 
 sionally with a little butter. In the meantime 
 boil half a pound of rice in a little stock or 
 water, adding no more than the rice is able to 
 absorb. This will take about as long as the 
 tomatoes will take to bake. Remove the toma- 
 toes from the tin and pour all the liquid and but- 
 ter on to the rice, stirring it well up and adding 
 salt and pepper to taste. Put this on a dish, 
 and serve the tomatoes on the rice with the red 
 unbroken side uppermost. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 RICE AND VEAL BROTH. 
 
 Put two pounds of the knuckle of veal into a 
 saucepan, and pour over it two quarts of boiling 
 water; add four ounces of washed rice, half a 
 blade of mace, and a little pepper and salt, and 
 let all simmer as gently as possible from an hour 
 and a half to two hours. Serve the broth in a 
 tureen with part of the meat, and send the rest 
 of the meat to table on a separate dish, with 
 parsley sauce over it. Time, one hour and a 
 half. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. Sufficient for six 
 or eight persons. 
 
 RICE AND VEAL CUTLETS. 
 
 Take equal parts of cold veal, and of rice 
 boiled in milk till it is tender. Pound the 
 ingredients in a mortar, first separately, and 
 afterwards together, season the mixture with 
 pepper and salt, and a very small portion of 
 grated nutmeg, and bind it together with yolk 
 of egg. Form it into the shape of Small cutlets, 
 brush these over with yolk of egg, and fry in hot 
 fat. Serve with piquant sa;uce, and send stewed' 
 mushrooms to table oil a separate dish. Time 
 to fry, till lightly browned on both sides. Prob- 
 able cost of veal, about Is. 2d.' per pound. 
 
RIC 
 
 698 
 
 RIO 
 
 Sufficient, half a dozen small cutlets for three 
 persons. 
 
 RICE AND VEAL SOUP. 
 
 (/See Veal and Rice Soup.) 
 
 RICE, APPLE. 
 
 Boil four ounces of rice in milk, with sugar 
 and lemon-peel chopped fine, till it becomes 
 tender. Peel and core six apples, let them sim- 
 mer in sugar and water with the juice of a lemon 
 till they are so tender that a fork will easily- 
 pass through them ; then take them off and let 
 them drain. Make in the same syrup reduced, 
 a marmalade with four apples, which is to be 
 mixed with the rice, and the yolks of three eggs. 
 Spread this marmalade on a baking-dish ; place 
 the six apples in it in such a manner that the 
 hollow part will be uppermost and even with 
 the rice; bake tham in a moderate oven. The 
 moment before serving, fill the centre of the 
 apples with apricot marmalade, or any other 
 preserve you please. Or you may make the 
 foundation entirely of apple marmalade, filling 
 the apples with preserves when you place them 
 in the dish, and masking the whole with rice. 
 
 RICE BISCUITS. 
 
 Beat two ounces of fresh butter to a cream. 
 Stir into this four ounces of ground rice and two 
 table-spoonfuls of powdered loaf sugar. Moisten 
 the mixture with a well-beaten egg, roll it out, 
 and stamp it into small rounds with a pastry- 
 cutter. Put these on a baking-dish, and bake in 
 a gentle oven. Time to bake, ten to fifteen 
 minutes. Sufficient for a dozen small cakes. 
 Probable cost, 6d. for this quantity. 
 
 RICE BLANCMANGE. 
 
 Soak three bay-leaves or the thin rind of 
 half a lemon in a quart of milk till it is 
 pleasantly flavoured, or, if preferred, drop into 
 the milk a few drops of almond or vanilla flavour- 
 ing. Mix a quarter of a pound of ground rice 
 smoothly with a portion of the milk, add the rest 
 gradually, together with a slice of fresh butter 
 and a little sugar, and put the whole into a 
 saucepan. Stir it over the fire, and let it boil 
 for about ten minutes, or until it leaves the sides 
 of the pan ; turn it into a damp mould, and let 
 it stand in a cold place till it is set. Just before 
 the blancmange is wanted, turn it upon a glass 
 dish, ornament with bright-coloured jam, or place 
 stewed fruit round it, and, if liked, serve a little 
 custard with it. The appearance of this dish 
 may be varied by putting it into five or six small 
 cups instead of into one mould, placing a piece 
 of candied fruit upon the top of each one when 
 turned out, and pouring custard round the 
 whole. Time, about ten minutes to boil the 
 rice. Probable cost, 8d.,' exclusive of jam and 
 custard. Sufficient for five or six persons. (See 
 also Blancmange, Rice.) 
 
 RICE BLANCMANGE (a German recipe). 
 
 Take half a pound of ground rice and boil it 
 in a quart of milk or cream, adding sugar, 
 lemon-peel, and a stick of cinnamon or a piece 
 of vanilla. When the rice ia well boiled take 
 out the spice and lemon-peel; dip a basin or 
 mould into cold water, and pour the rice into it. 
 When the rice is quite cold, turn it out, and 
 serve with a custard or fruit sauce poured over. 
 
 RICE, BOILED. 
 
 Take a pound of good rice, and wash it well 
 in two separate waters. When the water is 
 boiling throw in the rice. When the rice is 
 three-parts done, drain the water from it in a 
 sieve. Butter the inside of a stewpan, put the 
 rice into it, close the lid tightly, and put 
 the pan in a warm oven, or by the side of the 
 fire, until the rice is perfectly tender. Prepared 
 thus every grain will be distinct and beautifully 
 white. Serve with curry or with any other ad- 
 junct that may be preferred. 
 
 RICE, BOILED (k la Carolina). 
 
 Take a sufficient quantity of rice, and pick 
 it free from rough grains and foreign sub- 
 stances, then wash it quickly in cold water, and 
 hurry it to the pot before the grain is at all 
 softened. As to the quantity of water to be 
 used in boiling, there are two modes. One is 
 to put in twice as much water as rice, and allow 
 it all to be absorbed by the grain; the other 
 is to put in three or four times as much water, 
 but to pour almost all of it oif as soon as the 
 grain changes from its pearly- white colour and 
 gives proof of having softened. In both modes, 
 when this stage of boiling has been attained, 
 the pot is to be withdrawn from the hot fire and 
 set where it will be kept at a low steaming heat 
 until the water is all gone. The last process is 
 called "soaking." Properly conducted, the rice 
 comes from the pot perfectly done, of a clear 
 white colour, with each grain firm and distinct 
 and swelled to double its original size. Salt, of 
 course, is to be added. Rice prepared in this 
 way should not be stirred much in boiling, or it 
 will become gluey; a large open fork passed 
 through it once or twice will be sufficient to 
 prevent the grains adhering. 
 
 RICE, M>ILED, FOR CURRY. 
 
 Patna rice ought properly to be used for 
 curry, but when it is not at hand Carolina rice 
 will do almost as well. Wash half a pound of 
 rice in two or three waters, drain it, and pick 
 out every discoloured grain. Season two quarts 
 of boiling water with a little salt, sprinkle the 
 rice into it, and let it boil with the lid of the 
 saucepan partlv oft' for thirteen minutes. Drain 
 it on a colander, then put it into a buttered 
 saucepan, cover closely, and let it remain by 
 the side of the fire until each grain is perfectly 
 tender when pressed between the thumb and 
 finger, but still unbroken.. Be careful not to 
 stir the rice while it "is boiling, and serve on 
 a separate dish. Time, about twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 RICE, BOILED, FOR CURRY (another way). 
 
 (See CuEET, TO Bon, Rice fob.) 
 RICE, BOILED, PLAIN (Soyer's recipe). 
 
 Put two quarts of water into a stewpan, with 
 a tea-spoonful of salt ; when boiling, add to it 
 half a pound of rice well washed; boil for ten 
 minutes, or till each grain becomes rather soft ; 
 drain it into a colander, slightly grease the pot 
 with butter, and put the rice back into it; let 
 it swell slowly for about twenty minutes near 
 the fire, or in a slow oven. Each grain will then 
 swell up, and be well separated ; it is then ready 
 for use. 
 
RIC 
 
 699 
 
 RIC 
 
 RICE, BOILED, TO SERVE AS A VEGETABLE 
 WITH HOT MEAT. 
 
 Wasli half a pint of rice in several waters 
 until the water is clear. Drain it, and put it 
 into a saucepan with a pint of cold water, a 
 pinch of salt, and a piece of butter the size of 
 a j)ea. Let it boil gently until it is tender and 
 quite dry. Serve in a vegetable tureen. Or, 
 wash the rice, and tie it loosely in a cloth, leav- 
 ing room for it to swell to four times its bulk. 
 Put it into boiling water, and keep it boiling 
 until done enough. Lift it upon a sieve, drain 
 it, untie the string, and shaRe the rice into a 
 vegetable-dish. Stir with a fork to separate the 
 grains, and add a slice of butter and a little 
 pepper and salt. Time, with the cloth, an hour 
 and a half ; without the cloth, half an hour. 
 
 RICE BORDER (a Danish recipe). 
 
 Scald one pound of rice, boil it in two pints 
 of milk till it becomes a stiff cake. While still 
 warm stir in a quarter of a pound of butter, 
 four eggs, salt, and a little grated nutmeg. Put 
 it into the oven to bake, setting the dish in sand 
 to prevent cracking. This border may be used 
 round various dishes. It is frequently served 
 with fish stewed, especially lobsters stewed with 
 cauliflower, and has a very pretty effect. A 
 little of the lobster-butter should be mixed with 
 the rice to give it a fine red colour. 
 
 RICE, BORDER OF. 
 
 Sweet and savoury preparations of all kinds 
 are very good served in a border of rice instead 
 of with pastry. This border may be made in a 
 mould, which may be easily procured, as moulds 
 are made on purpose for rice borders, or it may 
 be formed with the hand. The latter is the more 
 difficult process of the two. The rice should be 
 boiled in stock or water, with a seasoning of 
 pepper and salt; or it should be boiled in milk, 
 sweetened and flavoured according to the nature 
 of the preparation which is to accompany it. 
 For a border of lice served with a fric'assee or 
 savoury stew of any kind, wash and drain a 
 pound of rice, and simmer it gently with two 
 ounces of butter, three pints of water, and a 
 little salt, till it is quite tender, and has ab- 
 sorbed the liquor. A little onion or a slice of 
 fat bacon may be added if liked. When the rice 
 is done enough, pound it in a mortar to a smooth 
 paste, cover the bottom and sides of a buttered 
 mould with this, being careful to leave a thick 
 and compact crust in every part, place a piece 
 of bread in the centre, and cover it with rice. 
 Press it with a spoon, and smooth it, then let 
 it remain until cold. Dip the mould in cold 
 water and turn the rice upon a dish, and mark 
 the lid on the top about an inch from the edge. 
 Brush the rice over with clarified butter, and 
 bake in a very hot oven until it is brightly 
 browned all over. Take off the cover, now be- 
 come an upper crust, remove the bread very 
 carefully, fill the follow with the preparation 
 destined for it, lay on the cover, glaze the rice, 
 put it in the oven a minute or two, and serve 
 very hot. Filleted fish, lamb's and sheep's 
 trotters, stewed oysters, sweetbreads, game 
 puree, ragouts of cold meat or fowl, may all be 
 served in this way. For rice which is to be 
 served with jam or fruit of any kind, boil the 
 rice with milk, and when it is tender, beat it 
 
 up with butter, sugar, and yolks of eggs, then 
 proceed precisely as above. When no mould 
 is used, boil the rice as above, pound it in a 
 mortar, then gather it into a ball : wash the 
 hands in cold water, and mould the rice into a 
 round shape, about four inches high and seven 
 wide. Mark the cover an inch from the end, 
 ornament the outside in any fanciful way, brush 
 over with clarified butter, and bake in a hot 
 oven. When done enough, lift off the cover, 
 and scoop out as much rice from the centre 
 as will leave the requisite vacant space, taking 
 care to leave the walls firm and compact. Time, 
 about an hour and a half to simmer the rice; 
 half to three-quarters of an hour to colour the 
 border. 
 
 RICE BREAD. 
 
 Eice when made into bread is usually 
 mixed with some other grain. The fol- 
 lowing are modes in which it has been 
 so employed with advantage. 1. — The Ameri- 
 cans make bread with it in this manner 
 The rice is thoroughly cleansed by pouring water 
 upon it and stirring it, the water being changed 
 occasionally until all impurities are washed 
 away. The water is then drawn off, and the 
 rice, while yet damp, is bruised in a mortar; 
 it is then dried and passed through a hair sieve. 
 The flour thus obtained is generally kneaded 
 with a small quantity of Indian-corn meal, and 
 is boiled until it has acquired a thickish con- 
 sistency; sometimes boiled potatoes are added. 
 The mass is fermented either with leaven or 
 yeast, and the dough is then baked in pans. 
 The bread thus prepared is reputed to be ught, 
 wholesome, and agreeable to the palate. 2. — 
 Let a quarter of a pound of rice be boiled until 
 it be quite soft; leave it to drain on the back 
 part of a sieve, and when cool, mix with it three- 
 quarters of a pound of wheat-flour, a spoonful of 
 yeast, and two ounces of salt. Let it stand for 
 three hours to ferment, then knead it very 
 thoroughly, and roll it in as much wheaten 
 flour as will give to the exterior sufficient con- 
 sistency to allow of its being conveniently de- 
 posited in the oven. After baking an hour and 
 a quarter it will form a loaf of good white 
 bread weighing one pound fourteen ounces. 3. 
 — To one peck of wheat-flour add half a peck of 
 rice-flour ; let them be mixed and kneaded with 
 salt, yeast, and warm water, in the usual man- 
 ner. Divide the mass, when fermented and duly 
 risen, into eight loaves, and bake them. 4. — 
 Boil a peck of rice till it becomes soft; let it 
 stand all night in a pan, and it will be found 
 greatly distended. Let a peck of potatoes be 
 boiled, skinned, and mashed to a pulp. Knead 
 them while hot with the rice, and a peck of 
 wheat-flour; then add a sufficient quantity of 
 yeast and salt, and leave the dough to ferment ; 
 the mass may be divided into loaves, and baked 
 in the usual manner. 
 
 RICE, BROWNED. 
 
 Boil some rice as for curry (see Rice, Boiled, 
 FOB Cubby), and leave it to get cold. Take a 
 baking-tin, butter it lightly, put the rice in a 
 thin layer, and bake it in the oven to a golden 
 brown, turning it about to colour equally. It 
 must not get dry, but only as much butter as 
 is needed to keep it from burning is to be used. 
 
RIC 
 
 700 
 
 RIC 
 
 It is an improTeinent to boil the rice in stock. 
 Probable cost, 4d. for, a dish of half a pound. 
 
 RICE, BUTTERED. 
 
 Wash four ounces of rice, drain it, and put 
 it into a saucepan with a pint and a half of milk. 
 Let it simmer gently until the grains are ten- 
 der. Pour off the thick milk, and put in two 
 ounces of butter, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, 
 and a little grated nutmeg, or any other flavour- 
 ing. Stir the rice until the butter is melted 
 and the rice is equally flavoured, turn it upon 
 a dish, and serve very hot. Time, about one 
 hour. Probable cost, 8d. Suflicient for five or 
 3ix persons. 
 
 AICE CAKE. 
 
 Tlie following is a very light rice cake. Take 
 a quarter of a pound of flour, six ounces of rice- 
 flour, twelve ounces of sugar, twelve eggs, and 
 the raspings of two lemons ; separate the whites 
 from the yolks of the eggs, whisk up the whites 
 to a strong froth ; then mix in the yolks, 
 pounded sugar, and lemon raspings. Whisk 
 this over a slow fire for about half an hour; 
 when it is quite light and thick take it off the fire, 
 and whisk it till it is quite cold, then stir 
 in the flour and rice. Bake the cake in 
 paper cases in a moderate heat; then put four 
 or five sheets of paper under them, and ice be- 
 fore baking. 
 
 RICE CAKES, PLAIN, 
 
 No. 1. — Rub half a pound of butter into one 
 pound of flour. Add one pound of ground rice, 
 a small pinch of salt, three heaped tea-spoon- 
 fuls of baking-powder, half a pound of sugar, 
 one pound of picked and dried currants, and two 
 ounces of candied peel. When the dry ingre- 
 dients are thoroughly mixed stir in four well- 
 beaten eggs and a tea-cupful of milk. Bake the 
 cake immediately in a well-heated oven. Prob- 
 able cost, 2s. 8d. Time, according to size. 
 When a skewer can be pushed to the bottom 
 in the centre of the cake, and be brought out 
 clean and bright, the cake is done enough. 
 No. 2. — ^Beat four ounces of butter to a cream. 
 Add half a pou«(l of sugar, three beaten eggs 
 stirred in gradually, a quarter of a pound of 
 picked and dried currants, a quarter or a pound 
 of candied peel, half a pound of ground rice, a 
 quarter of a pound of flour. When these ingre- 
 dients are thoroughly mixed, bake immediately. 
 Probable cost. Is. 5d. No. 3., — Rub six ounces 
 of butter into three-quarters of a pound of rice- 
 flour. Add five ounces of sugar, two table- 
 spoonfuls of currants, a teia-spoonful of candied 
 peel chopped very small, half a small tea-spoon- 
 ful of soda dissolved in half a tea-cupful of luke- 
 warm milk, and three eggs well whisked. Beat 
 these ingredients thoroughly for a few minutes, 
 and bake the cake immediately, in a well-heated 
 oven. Probable cost. Is. 2d. 
 
 RICE CAKES, RICH. 
 
 No. 1. — Beat half a pound of fresh butter to 
 a cream. Break ten eggs into a separate bowl, 
 and whisk them thoroughly. Mix with them 
 half a pound of powdered sugar fiavoured with 
 the rind of two lemons, half a pound of rice- 
 flour, and the creamed butter. Turn the mix- 
 ture into a buttered tin,' and bake in a well- 
 heated oven. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. No. 2. — 
 
 Beat first separately, and afterwards together,, 
 the yolks and whites of twelve eggs. Add 
 twelve ounces of ground rice, four ounces of 
 flour, one pound of powdered sugar, and any 
 flavouring that may be preferred. Beat the 
 mixture thoroughly, and bake as above. Prob- 
 able cost, 2s. No. 3. — Beat four ounces of fresh 
 butter to a cream. Add four ounces of pow- 
 dered sugar, the yolks of four well-beaten eggs, 
 and gradually, four ounces of ground rice and 
 the grated rind of half a lemon. Whisk the 
 whites of two eggs to a firm froth. Add them 
 to the other ingredients, beat the mixture 
 rapidly for twenty minutes, and bake in a quick 
 oven. If liked, the butter may be omitted, and 
 the cake will then be particularly suitable for an 
 invalid. These ingredients will make a small 
 cake. Probable cost. Is. Id. No. 4. — Beat the 
 yolks of eight eggs thoroughly, and mix with 
 them one pound and a quarter of powdered 
 sugar. Mix nine ounces of ground rice with 
 nine ounces of dried flour, add this in small 
 quantities at a time to the sugar and eggs, and 
 beat the mixture between every addition. At 
 least half an hour should be occupied with put- 
 ting in the flour and beating the cake. Add the 
 whites of the eggs beaten to snow, the peel of a 
 lemon finely shredded, and a dessert-spoonful of 
 lemon-juice. Beat the cake a quarter of an 
 hour longer, and bake in a well-heated oven. 
 Probable cost. Is. 8d. No. 5. — Beat the yolks of 
 twelve eggs and the whites of eight. Add a few 
 drops of almond flavouring, and beat in three- 
 quarters of a pound of powdered sugar and one 
 pound of ground rice. Beat the mixture till it 
 is smooth and light, put it into a buttered tin, 
 and bake in a quick oven. Probable cost. 
 Is. 8d. Time, according to size. When a 
 skewer can be pushed to the bottom of the cake 
 in the centre and be brought out clean and dry, 
 the cake is done enough. 
 
 RICE CAKES, SMALL. 
 
 No. 1. — Beat four ounces of fresh butter to 
 cream. Add four ounces of pounded and sifted 
 sugar, four ounces of ground rice, and one or 
 two drops of any flavouring that may be liked. 
 Add, gradually, first the yolks and afterwards 
 the whites of four well-whisked eggs. Beat the 
 mixture to a paste, and bake in a small buttered 
 tin in a well-heated oven. Probable cost. Is. 
 No. 2. — Beat four ounces of butter to cream. 
 Add eight ounces of finely-pounded sugar, eight, 
 ounces of ground rice, and the yolks and whites 
 of four well-beaten eggs. Drop the mixture in 
 cakes on a buttered baking-tin, sift sugar over 
 them, and bake in a well-heated oven. Probable 
 cost. Is. 3d. No. 3. — Rub three ounces of butter 
 into half a pound of rice-flour. Moisten 
 the mixture with a little cold water. When it is 
 quite smooth roll it out till it is very thin, stamp 
 it into small cakes, and bake in a quick oven. 
 No. 4. — The remains of cold boiled rice may be 
 beaten up with milk and eggs, and a little flour 
 to make a batter, then friea in hot fat till they 
 are lightly browned, and served for breakfast. 
 
 RICE, CANADIAN. 
 
 Canadian rice is the seed of the Zizania 
 aquatica. It grows on the margins of shallow 
 streams and running waters, and produces an 
 abundance of wholesome farinaceous grain. It 
 
RIC 
 
 701 
 
 RIO 
 
 is called in Canada, lake rice, tuscarora or 
 maJMomonee, and is found in shallow waters 
 from Florida to the Canadian lakes, It is regu- 
 larly harvested by the Indians, this work being 
 chiefly performed by their squaws ; but it is not 
 gathered in any quantity by the white popula- 
 tion, although it is estnemed a great delicacy. 
 It has been tried in this country, and it is likely 
 it would succeed if it should become an object 
 of demand : as it is aquatic, it can be cheaply 
 cultivated. 
 
 RICE, CASSEROLE OF. 
 
 Pick the rice well, wash it thoroughly first in 
 lukewarm and next in cold water. Drain it, 
 and throw it into a stewpan of a proper size, 
 that it may swell with ease ; moisten with some 
 " pot-top " (fat). The broth must be previously 
 drained through a silk sieve, that the rice may 
 be kept very clean. Mix it with a large quan- 
 tity of grease — some pieces of fat ham — in order 
 to make the rice more mellow, and a little salt. 
 As the rice must swell very much, use a sufficient 
 quantity of broth to produce that effect. Cook 
 the rice over a very slow fire, and stir frequently 
 that it may not stick. Taste it to ascertain 
 whether it is well seasoned and done enough; 
 then strain it through a colander, and move it 
 well with a wooden spoon. Take off the fat 
 that issues from the rice and pour it into the 
 mould which you select for the casserole ; when 
 all the parts of the latter are well covered with 
 the grease, drain it by turning the mould 
 upside down, then put some rice all round the 
 mould ; put a piece of soft bread in the middle, 
 and cover it with rice, squeeze it in equally 
 with your spoon, and let it cool. When the 
 rice has become firm, dip the outside of the 
 mould into boiling water. Have a little pate 
 brisee, which frame the size of the mould; 
 turn the mould over the paste; make an open- 
 ing with a knife in the top, and flatten the 
 paste all round with a spoon; then put it into 
 the oven, which can never be too hot for a 
 casserole, for if the oven is not hot enough the 
 casserole is liable to break; baste with the 
 grease, and when the casserole is become of a 
 fine colour, take it out of the oven; open it 
 gently, then cut the bread into small pieces 
 with a penknife that you may take it out 
 without injuring the casserole ; next remove the 
 rice that sticks round, but do not empty it too 
 much, for fear it should not bear or resist the 
 weight of whatever you intend to throw in. 
 You generally put into these casseroles white 
 and brown ragouts, blanquettes, eminces, fri- 
 cassees of fowls, macaroni, and scallops of fish 
 that have already been sent up to table, etc. etc. 
 
 RICE CASSOLETTES. 
 
 The rice must be prepared as directed in the 
 recipe. Rice, Cassebole ot, but must be put 
 into smaller moulds, those called dariole or cus- 
 tard moulds; and the mould must be buttered 
 all round, or you may use the fat from the rice 
 as above. Mind that the cassolettes are to be 
 quite cold before you take them out of the 
 mould. The best method of filling up the casso- 
 lettes is to take a carrot, and cut it a proper 
 large size, to make a hole in the rice ; this hole 
 you fill up with a mince of fowl, with 
 bechamel sauce. This mince must be thoroughly 
 
 cold. When you fill up the mould with the rice, 
 close it, without allowing any of the mince to 
 be mixed with the rice, in which case the casso- 
 lettes would break in the dripping when you fry 
 them. To prevent this accident, dip them in 
 beaten egg and crumbs once, and put them 
 into very hot dripping. It is to be observed, 
 that in making cassolettes the rice must be made 
 quite firm ; and that they require something of 
 a white colour to be added; as a mince with 
 white sauce, a mince of palates and of mush- 
 rooms a I'AUemande, or fillets of fish with 
 bechamel sauce, etc. You may likewise give 
 them a light brown colour in the oven, the same 
 as other casseroles of rice, but frying is the best 
 and the quickest way. 
 RICE CAUDLE, OR RICE MILK. 
 
 Soak two table-spoonfuls of whole rice in a 
 cupful of cold water for one hour. Strain it, 
 and put it into a saucepan with a pint and a hall 
 of cold milk. Let it simmer gently until it is 
 so tender that it will pulp through a sieye. Put 
 the pulp and milk into a clean saucepan, with 
 a small pinch of salt, a little sugar, and a 
 flavouring of lemon-peel, cinnamon, or grated 
 nutmeg. Rice milk may be enriched by the 
 addition of a little piece of butter, one or two 
 beaten eggs, a glassful of wine, or a table-spoon- 
 ful of brandy, but these additions should be 
 made after the rice is taken off the fire. Or, mix 
 a table-spoonful of rice smoothly with a little 
 cold milk. Pour upon this gradually a pint of 
 hot milk, and boil the mixture till it is smooth, 
 stirring all the time. Sweeten an^ flavour ac- 
 cording to taste. Time to boil the whole rice, 
 about an hour and a half; the ground rice, 
 about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 4ld. 
 to 6d. per pint. 
 RICE CAUDLE, SAVOURY. 
 
 Soak two table-spoonfuls of rice in a cupful 
 of cold water for an hour. Drain it, and put it 
 in a saucepan with three-quarters of a pint of 
 milk and three-quarters of a pint of good stock. 
 If turnips have been boiled in the stock so much 
 the better. Add half a tea-spoonful of chopped 
 onion and a little pepper and salt, and boil the 
 rice till it is tender. Pulp it 'through a sieve, 
 boil it up again, and serve. Be particularly 
 careful that the milk does not boil over, and 
 in order to prevent this stir it if necessary. A 
 little of the fat left on the top of the broth, or 
 a small slice of butter, will help to keep the rice 
 from burning. Time, one hour to one hour and 
 a half. 
 
 RICE CHEESECAKES. 
 
 Beat four ounces of butter to cream; add four 
 ounces of powdered and sifted loaf sugar, two 
 ounces of ground rice, a pinch of grated orange 
 or lemon-rind, and two well-beaten eggs. Or, 
 simmer a pint of cream with a little mace, cinna- 
 mon, lemon, or orange till it is pleasantly 
 flavoured. Add gradually, off the fire, two 
 ounces of ground rice, and stir the preparation 
 again, over the fire, till it is quite smooth. Pour 
 it into a bowl, and when it is a little cool mix 
 with it six well-beaten eggs. Stir it over the 
 fire till it is thick like cur A sweeten, and add to 
 it two ounces of blanched and pounded almonds. 
 Or, beat four ounces of butter to cream; add 
 four ounces of pounded and sifted sugar, four 
 
Tm 
 
 KIC 
 
 702 
 
 RIC 
 
 onnces of ground rice, the well-beaten yolks of 
 six eggs and the whites of three, and a glassful 
 of brandy. A little lemon, orange, or almond 
 flavouring may be added. Or, wash two ounces 
 of rice, and boil it in plenty of water till tender. 
 Drain it and beat it well, then put it into a 
 saucepan with a quarter of a pound of butter, 
 a quarter of a pint of cream, three table-spoon- 
 fuls of powdered sugar, three eggs well beaten, 
 two table-spoonfuls of brandy, and a little lemon 
 or almond flavouring. Stir the mixture over 
 the fire till it is thick, then let it cool. To make 
 the cheesecakes prepare any of the above mix- 
 tures, line some patty-pans with good pastry, 
 three-parts fill them with the preparation, and 
 bake m a well-heated oven. Time to bake, 
 about twenty minutes. Probable cost, IJd. to 
 2d. each. 
 RICE, CHICKEN BAKED IN. 
 
 (See Chicken, Baked in Eice.) 
 RICE, COMPOTE OF. 
 
 Wash a quarter of a pound of rice, and drain 
 it. Put it into a saucepan with a large c[uan- 
 tity of boiling water, let it boil very quickly, 
 leave the saucepan uncovered, and boil until the 
 grains are soft when pressed between the thumb 
 and finger, but quite distinct. Drain the rice, 
 and steam it in a clean saucepan near the fire till 
 it is dry. Spread it on a dish, sprinkle pow- 
 dered sugar and cinnamon plentifully over it, 
 and set it by for an hour. Just before serving 
 squeeze the juice of a lemon over it, and pour 
 upon it equal parts of light wine and water 
 sweetened. Time to boil the rice, about twenty 
 minutes. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 RICE CREAM. 
 
 Mix a large table-spoonful of ground rice very 
 smoothly with a little milk, and add more milk 
 to make the quantity up to half a pint. Pour 
 the mixture into a saucepan, with the yellow 
 part of half a lemon rubbed upon sugar, a 
 quarter of an ounce of isinglass or gelatine, and 
 a little piece of butter, and let it boil gently for 
 five minutes, stirring all the time. Pour it out, 
 and when it is almost cold stir into it a quarter 
 of a pint of thick cream. Beat the preparation 
 until it begins to stiffen, pour it into a mould, 
 and put it in a cool place to set. Serve with 
 fresh fruit, or with fruit-jelly reduced to syrup. 
 Time, five minutes to boil the cream. Probable 
 cost. Is. 2d. Suflioient for a pint mould. 
 RICE CREAM (another way). 
 
 Simmer a pint of milk with a little lemon- 
 rind or cinnamon till it is pleasantly flavoured. 
 Mix in a bowl two ounces and a half of ground 
 rice smoothly with two tablo-spoonfuls of cold 
 milk, and add the well-beaten yolks of four eggs 
 and the whites of two. Stir the milk when boil- 
 ing into this, then boil it, and add a little sugar. 
 Pour the rice into a mould, and set it in a cool 
 place until wanted. Turn it out, and serve with 
 fruit or custard. It is better made the day 
 before it is to be used. Time to boil the cream, 
 three minutes. If liked, the eggs can be omitted. 
 Probable cost, lOd. (iSee also Cbeam, Eice.) 
 RICE, CREAMED. / 
 
 Take half a pound of rice, wash and pick it ; 
 parboil and strain ; season with pepper and salt ; 
 pour over it a quart of soup or of good veal 
 
 stock ; let it boil two hours and pass it through 
 
 a tamis. 
 
 RICE CREAM SOUP. 
 
 Wash two table-spoonfuls of Carolina rice, and 
 boil it gently in a pint of stock for about two 
 hours, or till quite soft. A short time before it 
 is done, put a slice of onion and a stick of celery 
 into a pint of milk, and simmer. When the 
 milk is pleasantly flavoured pour it over the 
 rice, press the whole through a, sieve, and 
 add pepper and salt. Make the soup hot, stir 
 a gill of scalded cream into it, and serve. Prob- 
 able cost, without the stock. Is. 
 
 RICE CROQUETTES. 
 
 Prepare the rice as for Gateau of Eice (see 
 Eice, Gateau or). When it has swelled in the 
 cream and is properly seasoned, let it cool ; then 
 roll it into croquettes the shape of a cork. Next 
 strew over them crumbs of bread (by which is 
 meant that you dip them first into beaten egg 
 and next into crumbs of bread). Eoll them 
 several times in the crumbs in what form you 
 please, and mind they are made a fine colour. 
 When you have fried them of a good colour, 
 you may glaze them on one side with pounded 
 sugar, by using the salamander. Send up with 
 fried parsley of a nice colour in the centre. 
 
 RICE CROQUETTES (another way). 
 
 Take half a pound of rice, and boil it in a 
 quart of milk till tender, add four ounces of 
 butter, six yolks of eggs, and three table-spoon- 
 fuls of sugar ; let these ingredients boil a few 
 minutes, and then leave the mixture to get cold. 
 If liked, a table-spoonful of orange-flower water 
 or grated lemon-peel may be added. When quite 
 cold, cut the preparation into the shape and size 
 of sausages; roll these in beaten egg, strew 
 them with bread-crumbs, and bake of a fine 
 brown colour. 
 
 RICE CROQUETTES, PLAIN. 
 
 Wash a pound of rice in several waters. Dry 
 it in a cloth, and put it in a saucepan with half 
 a pint of milk, a quart of cold water, and'a little 
 salt. Let it simmer gently until it is soft, 
 thick, and dry, then spread it on a dish to cool. 
 Form it into balls or corks, dip these into the 
 yolks of two eggs well beaten, and afterwaTds 
 into bread finely grated, and passed through a 
 coarse sieve. Lay the croquettes in the frying 
 basket, and plunge them into hot fat. Turn 
 them over that they may be equally coloured, 
 and fry them till they are a bright golden brown. 
 Drain them before the fire on a napkin or on 
 blotting-paper, and serve them very hot piled 
 high on a dish. Time to fry, five minutes. 
 Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for ten or eleven 
 persons. 
 
 RICE CROQUETTES, SAVOURY. 
 
 Boil half a pound of rice till it is thick, soft, 
 and dry, drain it, and, if liked, mix with it when 
 it is taken from the fire a table-spoonful of 
 grated Parmesan, a pinch of powdered mace, and 
 a little white pepper. Let it get quite cold, then 
 form it into balls, inserting in the centre of 
 each ball a table-spoonful of any savoury mince, 
 such as turkey, fowl, rabbit, or oystfers, stewed 
 for a few minutes in thick white sauce. Cover 
 the mince entirely with the rice, dip the croquet- 
 tes in egg and bread-crumbs^ and fry them as 
 
RIC 
 
 703 
 
 RIO 
 
 before. The rice may be boiled in milk, water, 
 or stock, and seasoned in accordance with the 
 mince which is to be served with it. If boiled 
 in water a few spoonfuls of rich white sauce 
 stirred into it when it is almost dry enough will 
 greatly improve it. Time to fry, five to seven 
 minutes. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 RICE CROQUETTES, SWEET. 
 
 Wash half a pound of Carolina rice, and throw 
 it into boiling water for five minutes. Drain 
 and dry it, and let it cool. Put it into a good- 
 sized saucepan with the thin rind of half a fresh 
 lemon, half a pound of loaf sugar, a small slice 
 of butter, and three pints of milk. Let it sim- 
 mer gently until the rice is soft, thick, and dry, 
 then spread it on a dish to cool. Beat the yolks 
 of two eggs briskly. Form the rice into the 
 shape of corks, about an inch and a half long, 
 or into balls, then dip them first into beaten 
 egg, and afterwards into finely-grated bread- 
 crumbs. Lay them in the frying-basket, plunge 
 them into very hot fat, and fry them very 
 quickly until they are brightly browned. Drain 
 them, sprinkle white sugar over them, and serve 
 very hot, piling them on a dish in the form of 
 a pyramid. The flavour of the croquettes may 
 be varied by the addition of five or six pounded 
 bitter almonds, or by the substitution of a pod 
 of vanilla, broken in halves, or a little cocoa- 
 nut, pounded, for the lemon-rind. Both lemon- 
 rind and vanilla should be taken out of the 
 rice when it is left to cool. The croquettes may 
 be enriched also by the introduction of a spoon- 
 ful of jam or marmalade into the centre of each 
 ball. The jam must be entirely covered with 
 the rice. It should be remembered that unless 
 the rice is boiled till it is quite thick and dry it 
 will be difficult to form it into croquettes. Time 
 to fry, five to seven minutes. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. 
 
 RICE CUPS. 
 
 Sweeten a pint of milk, and flavour with 
 cinnamon or lemon-rind. Mix two table-spoon- 
 fuls of ground rice smoothly with a little cold 
 milk, add the well-beaten whites of three eggs, 
 and mix in the boiling milk. Stir the prepara- 
 tion over the fire until it is thick and smooth, 
 then pour it into tea-cups which have been 
 soaked in cold water. Turn the rice out of these 
 when cold, and ponr round the little shapes a 
 custard made with the yolks of the eggs. Put 
 a spoonful of bright-coloured jam or jelly upon 
 each mould by way of ornament. If eaten cold, 
 any fruit syrup may be used instead of sauce. 
 Time, three or four minutes to boil- the rice. 
 Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for thr'ee or four 
 persons. 
 
 RICE, CURRIED. ( 
 
 Slice an onion, fry it in hot fat till soft, and 
 rub it through a sieve. Mix smoothly with the 
 pulp a table-spoonful of curry-powder, a table- 
 epoonful of curry-paste, an ounce of butter, 
 three table-spoonfuls of cream, and a little salt. 
 Have ready half a pound of rice boiled as for 
 curry. Put this into a saucepan with the pre- 
 pared paste. Mix thoroughly and lightly, and 
 serve very hot, piled high on a dish. In mixing 
 the rice be careful to toss it lightly with two 
 forks; to use a spoon would crush it. Macaroni 
 
 may be curried in the same way. Time, eight 
 or ten minutes to mix and beat the rice. Prob- 
 able cost, 9d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 RICE CUSTARD. 
 
 Blanch six bitter almonds, and pound them 
 to paste with two table-spoonfuls of rose-water, 
 or, failing this, with a little water^ to keep them 
 from oiling. Mix an ounce of ground rice 
 smoothly with a spoonful of cold milk, and add 
 a pint of milk, half a pint of cream, the 
 almonds, and a little sugar. Stir the mixture 
 over the fire until it is lukewarm, then add 
 gradually the yolks of three eggs. Stir the 
 custard again until it begins to thicken, but it 
 must not boil. Serve in cups with blanched and 
 chopped almonds sprinkled on the top. Time 
 to prepare, about half an hour. Probable cost. 
 Is. 6d., with cream at Is. 6d. per pint. Sufficient 
 for a little more than a pint and a half of cus- 
 tard. 
 
 RICE CUSTARD (another way). 
 
 Take a quart of milk and about one ounce of 
 ground rice. Boil the milk with the ground rice 
 until it thickens, and sweeten with sugar. Beat 
 up four or six eggs, and add these to the pre- 
 paration when it has cooled a little; add also 
 an ounce of sweet almonds, pounded. Stir the 
 custard over the fire till it is nearly boiling. 
 
 RICE CUTLETS. 
 
 Boil five ounces of rice as if for curry (see 
 EiCE, Boiled, fob Cubet); when cool mix it 
 with seasoning to taste and a little fat bacon or 
 butter — a tea-spoonful of the latter will be 
 sufficient. Add a well-beaten egg, and mould 
 the mass into the shape of cutlets. Egg and 
 bread-crumb the cutlets and fry in boiling fat 
 to a nice brown. Serve with little dishes of 
 meat or fish. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 RICE FAVOURITES. 
 
 Take some rice boiled as for curry (see Rice, 
 Boiled, fob Citbbt), add as much rich white 
 sauce of any kind as will make it moist; it 
 should be about as thick as ordinary bread 
 sauce. Grease some small china vases, oval or 
 round, and lay in them some strips of hot boiled 
 ham, seasoned rather highly with French mus- 
 tard, cayenne, and a little chutney. Place them 
 so that they stand up above the edge of the 
 case. Fill with the rice. Over the tops pour 
 a tea-spoonful of sauce, made by mixing cream 
 and tomato pulp, equal parts, and colouring it 
 a pale pink with cochineal. Between this sauce 
 and the strips of ham put a narrow ring of any 
 cooked white vegetable, cut in shreds, and 
 moistened with cream; dust this with coralline 
 pepper, and put tiny sprigs of fried parsley on 
 the pink sauce. Garnish with fried parsley. 
 Probable cost, 2d. each. 
 
 RICE-FLOUR BREAD. 
 
 Take one pint of rice, and boil it soft; add a 
 pint of cream, and then three quarts of rice-flour. 
 Put the preparation to rise in a tin or earthen 
 vessel till it has risen enough. Next divide it 
 into three parts, and bake these like other bread 
 into three large loaves ; or, scald the flour, and 
 when it is cold mix half wheat-flour or corn. 
 This bread should be raised with leaven in the 
 usual way. (See also Bice Bread.) 
 
RIC 
 
 704 
 
 RIC 
 
 RICE-FLOUR BREAD (another way). 
 
 Take one quart of rice-flour, make it into a 
 stifE pap by wetting it with hot water ; not so 
 hot, however, as to make it lumpy. When the 
 flour is well wet, add boiling water, say two or 
 three quarts ; stir continually till it boils ; when 
 it cools, put in half a pint of yeast and a little 
 salt ; knead in as much wheat-flour as will make 
 it a proper dough for bread ; put it to rise, and 
 when risen add h little more wheat-flour. Let 
 it stand for half an hour in a warm place, then 
 bake. 
 
 RICE-FLOUR. BREAD ADULTERATED WITH. 
 
 It is asserted that this adulteration is very 
 frequently practised. The purpose for which 
 rice-flour is employed is to enable the bread to 
 absorb and retain a larger quantity of water 
 than it would otherwise do, and so cause it to 
 weigh more. This iniquitous purpose is accom- 
 plished through the absorbent power of rice for 
 water. In a loaf adulterated with rice-flour the 
 consumer is cheated of a qertain amount of nu- 
 tritious wheat farina, the place of which is sup- 
 plied by water. 
 
 RICE-FLOUR CAKES. 
 
 Take a pint of soft-boiled rice and half a pint 
 of milk and water ; add to this twelve spoonfuls 
 of rice-flour. Divide the mixture into small 
 cakes, and bake in a quick oven. 
 
 RICE-FLOUR FOR THICKENING SOUPS AND 
 SAUCES. 
 
 Mix pounded spices, salt and pepper, or sugar 
 with rice-flour, and make it into a smooth paste 
 by adding gradually as much cold liquor as is 
 needed. %eat with the back of a wooden spoon 
 till no lumps remain, and pour the liquor to be 
 thickened gradually over it, boiling. Return 
 the liquor to the saucepan, boil it again, and stir 
 over the fire for ten minutes. Two small table- 
 spoonfuls of rice-flour will thicken a quart of 
 soup. 
 RICE-FLOUR, OR GROUND RICE, TO MAKE. 
 
 Wash any quantity of rice in several waters, 
 drain, and pound it whilst damp to powder in a 
 mortar, dry it, and pass it through a fine sieve. 
 5ice-flour thus made at home, though perhaps 
 superior to that offered for sale, yet involves a 
 good deal of labour and trouble in its prepara- 
 tion. 
 
 RICE-FLOUR PUFFS. 
 
 Take a pint of flour, and add to it a tea-spoon- 
 ful of salt and a pint of boiling water. Beat up 
 four eggs, stir them into the mixture, put from 
 two to three table-spoonfuls of lard into a pan, 
 make it boiling hot, and fry as in the case of 
 common fritters. 
 
 RICE-FLOUR SOUP. 
 
 Mix a quarter of a pound of rice-flour very 
 smoothly with a cupful of nicely-seasoned veal 
 stock. Pour over it a quart of the same stock 
 boiling hot, and stir the soup over the fire for 
 ten minutes after it boils. A quarter of a pint 
 of cream or milk may be added, if liked. WTien 
 the cream is omitted, the addition of a dessert- 
 spoonful of curry-powder and a tea-spoonful of 
 lemon-juice will improve this soup to the taste 
 of many. Time, ten minutes to boil after the 
 rice-flour is added. 
 
 RICE FLUMMERY. 
 
 Mix two table-spoonfuls of ground rice to a 
 smooth paste with cold milk, and stir into it a 
 pint of boiling milk which has been sweetened 
 and flavoured with a quarter of an ounce of 
 bitter almonds blanched and pounded. Boil the 
 mixture, stir constantly until it leaves the bot- 
 tom of the saucepan, then pour it into a mould. 
 When it is quite cold and stiff, turn it out, and 
 stick all over it blanched almonds cut into 
 straws. Pour cream or thin custard round the 
 flummery, or a sauce made with wine, lemon- 
 juice, and sugar. If preferred, cinnamon, 
 lemon-rind, or vanilla may be used to flavour 
 the flummery instead of almonds. Time, about 
 ten minutes to boil the rice. Probable cost, ex- 
 clusive of the sauce, 6d. Sufficient for a pint 
 mould. 
 
 RICE FOR CURRIED OYSTERS AND SIMILAR 
 DISHES. 
 
 Wash a quarter of a pound of rice in two or 
 three waters. Drain it, throw it into a saucepan 
 of fast-boiling water, and let it boil quickly for 
 ten minutes. Drain it again, and boil it in 
 three-quarters of a pint of milk till the grains 
 are tender without being broken. Drain, dry it 
 on a sieve, tossing it lightly with two forks, 
 to separate the grains, and serve hot. Time, 
 from ten to fifteen minutes to boil the rice in the 
 milk. Probable cost, 2Jd. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. (See also Rice, Boiled, pob 
 
 CUEET.) 
 
 RICE, FOWL STEWED IN. 
 
 Take a fowl, half boil it in a moderate quan- 
 tity of water, then put to it a quarter of a pound 
 of rice with some mace. Stew the fowl till it 
 becomes tender. Some well-seasoned veal broth 
 added during the stewing will make the dish 
 more savoury. Take care to stew the fowl till it 
 becomes tender; it must not, however, be too 
 much stewed, or it will fall to pieces and lose 
 its form. 
 
 RICE FRITTERS. 
 
 Boil three ounces of rice in a pint of new 
 milk till it forms a stiff paste. Sweeten it, 
 flavour with grated lemon-rind, or powdered cin- 
 namon, mace, or nutmeg, and beat it up with 
 two table-spoonfuls of cream, two eggs, and a 
 spoonful of brandy, if liked. Let the rice get 
 cold, and form it into balls about as large as 
 nuts; dip these in ^%%, roll in bread-crumbs, 
 and fry quickly. When the balls are nicely 
 browned, pile them on a white doily, strew sifted 
 sugar over them, and serve hot. Send wine 
 sauce to table with them. Or, boil three ounces 
 of rice in a pint of milk to a stiff paste. 
 Sweeten and flavour it, and mix with it two 
 well-beaten eggs, an ounce of fresh butter, and 
 two table-spoonfuls of orange marmalade. Stir 
 it over the fire till the eggs are set, then spread 
 it on a dish to cool. Cut it into narrow strips 
 the length and thickness of a finger, dip these 
 into frying-batter, and fry in hot fat till they 
 are brightly browned. Powder sugar over them, 
 and serve on a napkin. The batter may be made 
 as follows. Melt an ounce of butter in one- 
 eighth of a pint of boiling milk, and cool it by 
 adding an equal quantity of cold water. Stir 
 in gradually four ounces of flour, and beat the 
 
RIO 
 
 705 
 
 RIG 
 
 mixture till it is smooth. Add the well- whisked 
 white of an egg, and use immediately. Or, mix 
 a quarter pf a ^ound of ground rice smoothly 
 with a pint of milk, and add a pinch of salt and 
 three table-spoonfuls of sugar. Stir the mix- 
 ture over the fire till it leaves the saucepan with 
 the spoon, then pour it out, and when cold add 
 two table-spoonfuls of flour, three eggs, and a 
 little flavouring, and beat the mixture till 
 smooth. Form into fritters and fry in hot fat. 
 When the fritters are nicely browned, drain 
 them on a sieve, and serve on a neatly-folded 
 napkin, with powdered sugar sifted over them. 
 Time to fry, six or seven minutes. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. 
 
 RICE FROTH. 
 
 Wash a, quarter of a pound of rice, and boil 
 it in a pint of water until the liquor is ab- 
 sorbed. Pour over the rice a quart of milk, and 
 let it boil gently till it is tender. Stir fre- 
 quently to- keep it from burning. Sweeten and 
 flavour with lemon or almond flavouring. If 
 the flavouring is an essence, it should be drop- 
 ped upon the sugar; if lemon-rind or almonds 
 are used, they should be boiled with the milk. 
 Put the rice and milk when cold into a glass 
 dish. Beat the whites of three eggs to froth, 
 and mix with them a dessert-spoonful of pow- 
 dered and sifted sugar. Lay this on the rice, 
 and place on the top in table-spoonfuls a quar- 
 ter of a pound of raspberry jam. 
 
 RICE FROTH (another way). 
 
 To one-third of a pound of rice allow one 
 quart of new milk, the whites of three eggs, 
 three ounces of loaf sugar, finely-pounded, a 
 stick of cinnamon, or eight or ten drops of 
 almond flavouring, or six or eight young bay- 
 leaves, and a quarter of a pound of raspberry 
 jam. Boil the rice in a pint of water. When 
 the rice is absorbed, add the milk, and let it go 
 on boiling until quite tender, keeping it stirred 
 to prevent burning. If cinnamon or bay- 
 leaves are used, boil them with the milk, and 
 remove them when the rice is sufficiently done ; if 
 essence of almonds be used as a flavouring, it 
 may be added with the sugar. When the rice- 
 milk is cold, put it into a glass dish or china 
 bowl, beat up the whites of the eggs to froth, 
 sweeten lightly, cover the rice with it, and put 
 little pieces of raspberry jam over the top. This 
 is a cheap and an ornamental dish. 
 
 RICE, GATEAU OF (rice cake). 
 
 Prepare the rice as directed in the recipe, 
 BiC£, Cassebole of, then take some good 
 cream, which first boil to ascertain that it will 
 not curdle ; the quantity must be proportionate 
 to the size of the mould you intend to use. For 
 a quarter of a pound of rice take a quart of 
 cream, which, however, is not always sufficient ; 
 this depends on the rice swelling more or less; 
 if necessary, add a little milk to it. When the 
 cream has boiled, take the peel of a lemon, 
 infuse it in the cream for a quarter of an hour ; 
 take the peel out before you pour in the rice, 
 which cook over a very slow fire till it bursts 
 or swells ; when well swollen, add a little salt 
 and some sugar, according to your own palate ; 
 the sugar, however, must predominate, the salt 
 being only intended to remedy the insipid taste 
 2t 
 
 that is inseparable from sweet entremets. Sugar 
 must entirely predominate in articles for a 
 dessert, but in entremets it is to be used 
 moderately. When the rice is done enough, and 
 properly seasoned, break eight eggs, and mix 
 the yolks with the rice; next beat the whites, 
 which pour gently into the preparation; put 
 also a good bit of butter; then clarify about a 
 quarter of a pound of butter, and when it is 
 completely melted pour it into the mould ; turn 
 the mould round that the butter may be spread 
 equally on all sides, then turn it upside down 
 for a moment; next put crumbs of bread into 
 the mould, spread equally all over it; now dip 
 a small piece of bread into the butter, sprinkle 
 some clarified butter all round the inside of the 
 mould, and add some more crumbs of bread. 
 Pour the rice into the mould, and put it into the 
 oven, but remember it must not be too hot. In 
 an hour the cake will be baked enough. Turn 
 it upside down in the dish, and send to table. 
 Preserved cherries, raisins, currants, etc., may 
 be put with it if desired. 
 
 RICE CRATIN (M. Ude's recipe). 
 
 Take two ounces of rice, which wash and 
 pick, etc. Then let it swell in hot milk — as 
 cream, when used for entremets of this sort, 
 would turn to butter. When the rice, is well 
 done, pound half a dozen sweet almonds and 
 the same quantity of bitter ones; when you 
 have made them into a paste, rub them through 
 a tamis, and mix them with the rice, a little 
 sugar, and a very little salt. Then put the rice 
 into a silver pan or porringer, or silver cas- 
 serole, and leave it on a slow fire for three- 
 quarters of an hour or more. Instead of using 
 the lid, only cover the pan with a sheet of paper, 
 to keep out the dust and the smoke. Serve hot. 
 If you put a cover to it, the steam will prevent 
 its being gratined. Glaze it with pounded sugar 
 by means of the salamander. If it is properly 
 gratined it is a very good dish for family use. 
 
 RICE, GROUND. 
 
 (See (Jbotjnd Eiob, various recipes, also Rice- 
 Flour.) 
 
 RICE, GROUND, CUSTARD PUDDING. 
 
 Boil a pint of new milk with a bay-leaf, two 
 or three bitter almonds, and a table-spoonful of 
 brown sugar, for a quarter of an hour. Take 
 two ounces of ground rice, and stir it into the 
 milk by degrees ; let it boil a few minutes longer 
 until thick. Dip cups in cold water, and pour 
 the mixture into them. Turn their contents out 
 when cold, and serve with the following sauce. 
 Take about half a pint of milk or cream, a little 
 whole cinnamon, some lemon-peel, a bay-leaf, 
 and enough brown sugar to sweeten. Boil the 
 whole a quarter of an hour, and when cold add 
 three beaten yolks of eggs. Put it on the fire 
 again, but do not let it boil. Two minutes be- 
 fore lifting thicken with a little ground rice, and 
 add a glass of Madeira or sherry. Probable 
 cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 RICE, GROUND, MILK. 
 
 Boil a table-spoonful of ground rice with a 
 pint and a half of milk, a bit of cinnamon and 
 lemon-peel, a little nutmeg, and sugar to taste, 
 adding the sugar only when nearly done. It 
 should be thick and smooth. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
RIC 
 
 706 
 
 RIC 
 
 RICE, GROUND, PUDDING. 
 
 Mix two ounces of ground rice smoothly with 
 a quarter of a pint of cold milk," heat three- 
 quarters of a pint to boiling point, and stir into 
 the rice. Put the mixture in an enamelled 
 saucepan, and stir over the fire for about five 
 minutes until the rice thickens, let it cool a 
 few minutes, then add one ounce of butter, two 
 ounces of pounded sugar, and the grated rind 
 of half a lemon. Pour the mixture into a 
 buttered pie-dish, and bate for half an hour. 
 Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 RICE, GROUND, SOUFFLE OF. 
 
 Hix an ounce and a half of ground rice with 
 an ounce of butter, an ounce of sugar, a pinch 
 of salt, and a gill of milk. Stir over the fire 
 until well cooked. Cool, add the yolks of three 
 and the whisked whites of four eggs. Steam 
 gently untU it has risen to a good height, is 
 brightly coloured, and quite set in the centre, 
 and serve immediately. 
 
 RICE GRUEL (Invalid Cookery). 
 
 Take a spoonful of ground rice, and with it 
 thicken a pint of milk or water. Mix it in the 
 same way as oatmeal gruel; boil with a bit of 
 dried orange-peel or lemon-peel and a bit of 
 cinnamon. Boil for about ten minutes, sweeten 
 with loaf sugar, and add two glassfuls of port 
 or one of brandy, as may be required. This is 
 a good gruel for bowel complaints, but arrow- 
 root is better. 
 
 RICE, INDIAN MODE OF BOILING. 
 
 Wash a pound of rice, pick out the discoloured 
 grains, and soak it for a quarter of an hour. 
 Drain, and put it into a saucepan with as much 
 boiling water as will thoroughly cover it. Cover 
 the saucepan, let the rice boil for six minutes, 
 add a quarter of a pint of milk, and boil two 
 minutes longer. Strain the rice, and return it 
 to the saucepan to dry. Pour over it half an 
 ounce of butter dissolved in a spoonful of the 
 water in which the rice was boiled. In five 
 minutes it will be ready for serving. In the 
 East Indies and China the water in which rice 
 is boiled is called congy-water, sfai is prescribed 
 by medical men there as nourishing food for sick 
 persons. It is, in fact, rice gruel. Time, about 
 three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 RICE JELLY. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of rice and half a 
 pound of loaf sugar; boil these ingredients in 
 a quart of water, and when they become a 
 gelatinous mass strain off the jelly. Add lemon- 
 juice or wine, and let the jelly cool, then serve. 
 
 RICE MERIDON. 
 
 Eice meridon is on a large scale what the 
 rissole is on a small scale, namely, a crust en- 
 closing a stuffing or forcemeat, but the prepara- 
 tion is different. Take half a pound of rice, well 
 washed and picked, boil it in a quart of milk for 
 an hour ; by this time the rice will have soaked 
 up the milk and become swollen and tender. 
 Care must be taken to keep it stirred, that it 
 may not stick to the saucepan. Now stir in 
 four ounces of butter, six whole eggs, and a 
 little salt; let it remain over the fire till the 
 eggs thicken the whole ; it must be stirred all 
 the time; then set it aside to cool; when cold. 
 
 take a form well buttered and sprinkled with 
 bread-crumbs, and line about an inch with the 
 cold rice ; fill the vacant space with a ragout, or 
 a forcemeat prepared for fowl or fish rissole; 
 cover the top wilii a thick layer of rice, and 
 bake. When it has baked a quarter of an hour, 
 and the rice has become nicely browned, gently 
 loosen it v;ith a knife from the form, put a dish 
 on the top, and turn it out. Great care must 
 be taken that it does not burst, which will spoil 
 the effect. Serve with a good sauce. 
 
 RICE MERINGUE. 
 
 Boil half a pound of rice in water till almost 
 tender, drain it, and put it into a saucepan 
 with a pint of milk and a little sugar_ and 
 flavouring. Let it simmer till it has absorbed 
 all the milk, pour it out, and stir into it the 
 well-beaten yolks of four eggs. Spread it on a 
 buttered dish, beat the whites of the eggs to a 
 firm froth with a table-spoonful of powdered 
 and sifted loaf sugar, and lay this neatly and 
 evenly over the surface. Sprinkle a little pow- 
 dered sugar on the top, and bake in a moder- 
 ately-heated oven till the surface is brightly 
 browned. The meringue will be improved if any 
 kind of fruit is boiled to pulp, sweetened, and 
 laid in the centre of the dish, the rice being 
 arranged in a wall round it, and the white of 
 egg plastered over all. Time to brown the sur- 
 face, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, ex- 
 clusive of the fruit. Is. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 RICE MILK. 
 
 Wash two table-spoonfuls of rice, and simmer 
 it in a quart of milk till tender. Put a piece of 
 butter the size of a pea into it, -and stir occa- 
 sionally to keep it from burning. Eub it 
 through a sieve, sweeten and flavour it, boil up 
 again, and serve. When milk is not plentiful, 
 the rice may be softened in water, and after- 
 wards boiled in a small quantity of milk. This 
 is a very wholesome dish for children. A little 
 finely-shredded suet boiled with it will make it 
 more nourishing. Time to boil, three-quarters 
 of an hour to one hsur and a quarter. Probable 
 cost, 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 RICE MILK (a Spanish recipe). 
 
 Take a pound of rice, wash it, and put it into 
 a stewpan vidth cold water; half cook, drain it, 
 and complete the cooking in milk. The rice 
 should be kept on the fire till it is very tender 
 but not in e. pulp ; at the last moment add 
 sugar to taste. When done enough, place the 
 rice in a deep dish, smooth the surface, and 
 place on the top a buttered paper; cut out in 
 any open or ornamental pattern. Mix cinna- 
 mon powder with a little sugar, and sprinkle this 
 over the paper; remove the paper, and the 
 pattern will be found marked with sugar on 
 the surface of the rice. 
 
 RICE MOULD. 
 
 Wash and drain a large cupful of the best 
 Carolina rice. Put it into a saucepan with a 
 piece of cinnamon, a bay-leaf, or the rind of 
 half a lemon, and pour over it a cupful of cold 
 water. Let it boil, then add two cupfuls of thin 
 cream or good milk, and let the rice simmer 
 gently until it is quite soft. Take out the 
 flavouring ingredients, sweeten the rice, and 
 
RIC 
 
 ioi 
 
 RIO 
 
 peat well for three or four minutes. Press it 
 into a damp mould, and let it remain until cold 
 and stiff. Turn it out, garnish with preserved 
 fruit or jelly of any kind, and pour a little thin 
 custard round it. It is an excellent plan to put 
 the rice, milk, etc., into an earthenware jar, to 
 put this into a pan of boiling water, and steam 
 until done enough. When prepared in this way 
 the rice is less likely to burn and to become dis- 
 coloured than when boiled in the saucepan, but 
 care must be taken to keep a plentiful supply of 
 boiling water round it. It will take longer to 
 steam than to boil it. Instead of putting the 
 rice into a plain mould, it may be pressed into 
 a cylindrical mould, and the centre may be filled 
 with custard; or it may be made into several 
 little moulds, a little jam may be placed upon 
 each, and custard poured round. The rice is 
 excellent without custard. Probable cost of 
 rice, when made with milk, 7d. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. Time, one hour and a half 
 to two hours. 
 
 RICE MOULD (another way). 
 
 Allow a pint of milk to a quarter pint of well- 
 washed rice; cook together for an hour and a 
 half, then flavour and sweeten to taste, and pour 
 into a damp mould to set. Turn out, and 
 serve with plain custard, or iam, or stewed fruit. 
 Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 RICE MOULD, RECHAUFFf OF. 
 
 Beat up the rice with a quarter of a pint of 
 milk, add a beaten egg, a table-spoonful of 
 washed currants, and a little grated nutmeg. 
 Press the rice into a mould, lay a buttered paper 
 on top, and steam it for an hour and a half. 
 Serve with jam or sweet sauce. (See Sweet 
 Satjce eob Puddings.) 
 
 RICE MOULDS. 
 
 Simmer a tea-cupful of rice in a quart of water 
 with half a pound of loaf sugar and one ounce 
 of butter until soft; stir in a few drops of 
 vanilla, put the rice into small moulds or tea- 
 cups, and leave till cold; then turn out and 
 arrange on a glass dish. Place a, piece of red- 
 currant jelly on each, and pour thick custard 
 sauce round. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 RICE, MUSSELS AND (an Algerian recipe). 
 
 Wash the mussels well; set them on the fire 
 in a stewpan without any water, but with a 
 close-fitting lid. Shake them up from time to 
 time so as to bring them all in turn to the 
 bottom. They will gradually open and give out 
 their liquor, in which, and in the steam from 
 it, they will cook. When they are all well 
 opened and detach easily from the shell, turn 
 them out into a large-holed colander placed 
 over a vessel to catch the liquor which strains, 
 and set aside to settle. Take the mussels out of 
 their shells, rejecting the weed attached to their 
 inside and any little parasitical crabs within 
 them, and put them aside. Boil rice as if for a 
 curry, s(^as to be as dry as possible when done. 
 To this put a good lump of butter and a few 
 table-spoonfuls of the mussel liquor, season with 
 pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Put in the 
 mussels, beat up all together, mixing without 
 breaking them ; or heap the warmed-up mussels 
 in the centre of a dish, and surround them with 
 the seasoned rice. 
 
 RICE OMELET. 
 
 Take half a pound of rice and boil it till tender 
 in a pint and a half of milk; boil a stick of 
 vanilla in half a pint of cream, and stir the 
 cream into the warm rice with half a pound of 
 fresh butter. When cool, add the yolks of ten 
 eggs well beaten up, some white sugar, and a 
 very little salt. Last of all, stir in the whites 
 when beaten to snow; bake the omelet rather 
 less than an hour. 
 
 RICE PANADA. 
 
 Take one pound of rice, previously washed, 
 and boil it in one gallon of water for an hour ; 
 add three-quarters of an ounce of sugar and two 
 ounces of salt; mix with some cold water to 
 make a thin paste, one pound of flour or oat- 
 meal, and half an ounce of curry-powder; add 
 it to the rice, and boil for twenty minutes ; then 
 serve. 
 
 RICE PANCAKES. 
 
 Boil a quarter of a pound of rice in a pint of 
 milk till it is a smooth stiff paste. Turn it out, 
 and when cool mix with it four eggs well beaten, 
 half a pint of cream, a pinch of salt, and a little 
 sugar and flavouring. Add four ounces of clari- 
 fied butter, and beat the batter till it is quite 
 smooth. Melt a little dripping or butter in a 
 frying-pan, and fry the pancakes quickly. Sift 
 powdered sugar over them, and send cut lemons 
 or orange marmalade to table with them. If the 
 batter is not sufficiently thick a little flour may 
 be added to it. This will depend upon the 
 quality of the rice. Time to fry the pancakes, 
 five to seven minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 2d. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 RICE PANCAKES, GROUND. 
 
 Mix two table-spoonfuls of ground rice 
 smoothly with a pint of milk, and stir the mix- 
 ture over the fire till it begins to thicken, but 
 do not let it boil. Pour it into a bowl, and mix 
 with it four ounces of fresh butter. When it is 
 cool, sweeten and flavour it, and mix four well- ■ 
 beaten eggs with it. Drop the preparation into 
 hot fat, and fry the pancakes till they are 
 brightly browned. Serve on a white napkin, 
 sift powdered sugar over them, and send wine 
 sauce or cut lemon to table with them. 
 
 RICE PASTE FOR SAVOURY DISHES. 
 
 Put seasoned cutlets of veal, lamb, chicken, 
 or game already cooked into a pie-dish, and 
 cover the meat with a layer of nee which has 
 been boiled to a stiff paste in milk, with a little 
 pepper, salt, and onion for seasoning. Brush 
 over with egg, and put it in the oven for a 
 minute or two, to colour the paste lightly. A 
 little egg mixed with the rice will make it adhere 
 better. 
 
 RICE PASTE FOR TARTLETS, ETC. 
 
 Boil a quarter of a pound of ground rice in 
 half a pint of water till the liquor is absorbed. 
 Squeeze it in a napkin till quite dry, then pound 
 it in a mortar to a paste with a pinch of salt, a 
 beaten liEgg, and an ounce of fresh butter. Eoll 
 it out till very thin, and it will be ready for use. 
 Or, rub a quarter of a pound of fresh butter into 
 half a pound of ground rice. Add a table-spoon- 
 ful of sifted sugar and a pinch of salt, and make 
 the mixture into a paste with cold water. Eoll 
 
RIC 
 
 708 
 
 RIC 
 
 it out, spread a little more butter upon it, or 
 not, according to the richness required. Dredge 
 flour under and over it in rolling, and it will be 
 ready for use. Tartlets made with this pastry 
 should be eaten the day they are made. 
 
 RICE PEARS. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of rice, and boil it 
 in milk till quite thick, then stir in a piece of 
 butter and a few grains of salt. Bemove the 
 rice from the fire, and put it into a dish to 
 cool; add a table-spoonful of almonds chopped 
 fine, with a few bitter almonds amongst them, 
 the grated peel of a lemon, sugar to taste, three 
 or four eggs beaten, and one ounce of grated 
 bread-crumbs. Form this mass into the shape 
 of pears, dip them in egg beaten up, strew 
 thickly with bread-crumbs, and bake. 
 
 RICE PIE. 
 
 Put three large table-spoonfuls of ground rice 
 into a basin, and beat it to a paste with a pint 
 of cold milk. Add two table-spoonfuls of sugar, 
 four well-beaten eggs, and any flavouring that 
 may be preferred. Four a pint of boiling milk 
 over the mixture, stir it well over the fire until 
 the eggs are set, then let it cool. Add a glass 
 of Madeira, if liked. Line a pie-dish with good 
 pastry, pour in the mixture, and bake in a well- 
 heated oven. Time to bake, about three-quar- 
 ters of an hour. Probable cost. Is., exclusive of 
 the wine. Sufficient for five or six persons., 
 
 RICE PIE (another way). 
 
 Chief ingredients : a pint of rice and a fat 
 tender fowl. First boil the fowl in enough 
 water to cook the rice according to the rule 
 given in the recipe. Rice, Boiled, i. la. Cabo- 
 liiNA (which see). When the fowl is done re- 
 move the large bones, and cut the bird into 
 small pieces. Spread a layer of the cooked rice 
 on the bottom of a deep pan, and on it place a 
 layer of the fowl, with butter and eggs mixed, 
 and with black pepper and spices to suit. Al- 
 ternate these layers until the pan is full, having 
 a layer of rice at the top, on which pour a mix- 
 ture of butter and egg, and set the whole to 
 brown in an oven or on the fire; then serve in 
 the vessel in which it was last cooked. This 
 dish resembles in richness the pilau of the Turks. 
 
 RICE PILAU. 
 
 Put a pint of stock into a saucepan, with a 
 sliced onion, six ounces of Patna rice, a table- 
 spoonful of curry-powder mixed with a little 
 etock, two ounces of butter, and salt to taste. 
 Simmer very slowly till the rice is soft, and has 
 taken up all the liquid, then arrange piled up 
 high on a dish. Garnish round with hard-boiled 
 egg cut in halves, and little tufts of Brussels 
 sprouts. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 RICE, POLISH WAY OF DRESSING. 
 
 Mince an onion finely, and fry it in butter 
 until it begins to turn yellow. Mix with it 
 two ounces of cooked ham finely shredded, and 
 a quarter of a pound of rice boiled as for curry. 
 Stir it lightly over the fire, and season with 
 cayenne and a spoonful of grated Parmesan or 
 Cheddar cheese. Serve hot, piled high on a 
 dish. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes after 
 the rice is boiled. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. , 
 
 RICE, PORTUGUESE, SWEET. 
 
 Wash and drain a quarter of a pound of rice, 
 and boil it in a pint and a quarter of new milk 
 until it is thoroughly tender but dry and whole. 
 When it is three-parts cooked, add a little more 
 milk, if necessary, or in its place substitute a 
 little cream ; add also four ounces of powdered 
 loaf sugar. Stir frequently whilst it is boiling, 
 and especially when it begins to thicken, to 
 keep it from burning. Blanch two ounces of 
 sweet almonds and two or three bitter ones, 
 put them in a moderate oven till they are 
 browned through, and pound them to powder. 
 Place the rice on a shallow dish, sprinkle a 
 tea-spoonful of almond-powder, or a tea-spoon- 
 ful of powdered cinnamon, over the top, and 
 serve the preparation cold; it will keep good 
 for two or three days. This dish may be varied 
 as follows. When the rice is tender, take it 
 from the fire, and let it cool four or five 
 minutes, then stir in with it three beaten eggs 
 and four table-spoonfuls of thick cream. Stir 
 over the fire till it is on the point of boiling, 
 then pour it out, and let it stand till cold. 
 Put it in a glass dish, and sift almond-pow- 
 der or cinnamon over it as before. Time to 
 boil the rice, one hour and a half. Probable 
 cost, 8d. or Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 RICE, PRESERVATION OF. 
 
 Eice may be kept a very long period in the 
 rough. After being cleaned, if it be prime rice, 
 and well milled, it will keep a long time in 
 this climate; only, when about to be used (if 
 old), it requires more careful washing to get 
 rid of the must which accumulates upon it. 
 Some planters prefer for table use rice a year 
 old to the new. The grain is superior to any 
 other in this respect. Bough rice may remain 
 under water twenty-four hours without injury 
 if dried soon after. 
 
 RICE PUDDING. 
 
 It is not generally known that the cheap 
 broken rice is better for puddings than the more 
 expensive article. One table-spoonful of this 
 well washed, the usual quantity of milk and 
 sugar, and a pinch bf pounded mace, with a little 
 butter, will make an excellent rice pudding. 
 Bake very slowly. 
 
 RICE PUDDING, BAKED. 
 
 Wash six ounces of rice, and boil it gently 
 in a little more milk than it will absorb. When 
 it is tender without being broken, pour it out, 
 and mix with it a pinch of salt, two table-spoon- 
 fuls of sugar, a table-spoonful of finely-shredded 
 suet, or, if preferred, a slice of butter, and a 
 little grated nutmeg, or any other flavouring. 
 Let the rice cool, then stir into it one or two 
 eggs, according to the richness required. It, 
 will be very good without any. Bake the pud- 
 ding in a moderately-heated oven, and serv» 
 with sifted sugar. Time to bake, one hour. 
 Probable cost, lOd., if made with one egg. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 ■|pg- 
 
 RICE PUDDING, BAKED, BARON BRISSE'S. 
 
 Wash half a pound of rice, pick out the 
 discoloured grains, and swell it gently but 
 thoroughly in as little milk as possible. Turn 
 it into a bowl, and when cool add the lightly- 
 grated rind of a fresh lemon, a pinch of salt. 
 
RIC 
 
 T09 
 
 RIC 
 
 four ounces of powdered sugar, a slice of butter, 
 and the well-beaten yolks of three eggs. Butter 
 the inside of a copper cake-mould, and sprinkle 
 as many finely-grated bread-crumbs over it as 
 the butter will hold, shake oB those which do 
 not adhere, and brush a little butter lightly over 
 those which do. Whisk the whites of the eggs 
 to a firm froth, and at the last moment stir 
 them gradually into the rice. Pour the mixture 
 gently into the mould, that the crumbs may not 
 be displaced, put it into a ver;/ gentle oven, and 
 let it remain until done enough. Turn out care- 
 fully, so as not to break the pudding. It ought 
 to look like a well-browned cake. Time to bdte, 
 one hour or more. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. 
 
 RICE PUDDING, BAKED, PLAIN. 
 
 Put a small tea-cupful of rice into a dish, 
 sprinkle a little sugar upon it, and add a little 
 grated lemon-rind, or any other flavouring. 
 Pour over it three pints of cold milk, and add a 
 piece of fresh butter the size of a threepenny- 
 piece. Put it in a very gentle oven, and bake 
 until it is covered with a bright brown skin. 
 A table-spoonful of currants may be added if 
 liked. Time to bake, three hours (unless the 
 •oven is very gentle, the pudding will be. dry and 
 burnt). Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. 
 
 RICE PUDDING, BAKED, SMALL. 
 
 Boil a quarter of a pound of rice in u little 
 more than a pint of milk sweetened and fla- 
 voured with almonds. When it is soft and 
 thick pour it out, and mix with it three well- 
 beaten eggs. Butter some small cups thickly, 
 and cover the inside with candied peel cut into 
 very thin shreds. Half fill them with the rice, 
 and put it in very gently, not to displace the 
 peel. Bake the puddings in a moderate oven. 
 When done enough turn them out, and serve on 
 a neatly-folded napkin, and send cream, cus- 
 tard, or wine sauce to table with them. Time tb 
 bake, about forty minutes. Probable cost. Is. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. Or, boil a 
 table-spoonful of rice in a quarter of a pint of 
 milk till tender, then mix with it a little sugar 
 and flavouring, a pinch of salt, and a Slice of 
 butter. Peel, core, and slice a good-sized apple, 
 and stew it to pulp with half a, spoonful of 
 water, a small piece of butter, and a little 
 sugar which has been rubbed upon a lemon for a 
 minute or two. Put the apple into a small 
 buttered dish, mix an egg with the rice, and 
 pour over it. Bake in a moderate oven. Time 
 to bake, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 
 4d. Sufficient for one person. 
 
 RICE PUDDING, BOILED, CHEAP. 
 
 Wash a tearcupful of rice, drain it, and put it 
 into a, dry, unfloured pudding-cloth. Gather 
 the ends together, and tie them loosely, leaving 
 room for the rice to swell to three times its 
 size. Put it into a saucepan with plenty of fast- 
 boiling water, and keep it boiling until done 
 enough. If it is necessary to add more water, 
 let it be boiling. When done enough turn it 
 upon a dish, and send sweet sauce to table with 
 it. A little may be poured round it in the dish. 
 This pudding may be pleasantly varied by mix- 
 ing with the rice half a cupful of washed cur- 
 rants, or sultana raisins, or prunes, or goose- 
 
 berries, or apples, pared, cored, and quartered. 
 It is well to place a plate under the pudding in 
 the saucepan, to keep it from sticking. Time to 
 boil, one hour and three-quarters. Probable 
 cost, plain rice pudding, 2a. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. 
 RICE PUDDING, BOILED, SUPERIOR. 
 
 No. 1. — Wash a quarter of a pound of rice, 
 and boil it gently in a pint and a half of milk 
 till it is soft and thick. The milk should be 
 sweetened and flavoured pleasantly with lemon 
 or orange-rind, or almond, cocoa-nut, or vanilla. 
 Pour the mixture into a basin, an-d when cold 
 stir into it a slice of butter, four well-whisked 
 eggs, and a spoonful of brandy — the 'brandy, 
 however, may be omitted. Pour the pudding 
 into a mould which it will quite fill, lay a 
 buttered paper upon it, tie it in a floured cloth, 
 plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling 
 quickly until done enough. Serve with sweet 
 sauce, stewed fruit, cream, or jam. Time to 
 boil, one hour. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. No. 2. — Boil four 
 ounces of rice in water till it is soft and thick. 
 Put it dry into a mortar, and pound well with 
 a slice of fresh butter, five well-beaten yolks of 
 eggs, three table-spoonfuls of sugar, a pound of 
 picked and washed currants, and a flavouring of 
 lemon, nutmeg, or vanilla. Beat the mixture 
 thoroughly, put it into a floured cloth, plunge 
 it into boiling water, and boil until done 
 enough, or strain it over boiling water for the 
 same time. Turn the pudding out carefully, 
 and serve with sweet or wine sauce. Time to 
 boil, one hour and a half. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 RICE PUDDING, DUTCH. 
 
 Soak four ounces of rice in warm water half 
 an hour, then drain the water from it, and 
 throw the rice into a stewpan, with half a pint 
 of milk, half a stick of cinnamon, and simmer 
 till tender. When cold, mix four whole eggs 
 well beaten, with a slice of butter melted in a 
 tea-cupful of cream (or milk where cream is 
 scarce or dear), and three ounces of sugar, a 
 quarter of a nutmeg, a good piece of lemon-peel, 
 and the rice. Put a light puff-paste or grated 
 tops and bottoms into a mould or dish, spread 
 the rice on this, and bake in a quick oven. 
 
 RICE PUDDING (French method). 
 
 Boil the rice in a quart of new milk till it 
 becomes of the consistency of cream and quite 
 soft, taking care not to stir it from the time it 
 is put on the fire till it thickens. Let it stand 
 to cool until about half an hour before serving. 
 Then beat up the yolks of four eggs, add them 
 to the rice, with a little lemon-peel pared very 
 thin, and sweeten with sugar to taste. Set the 
 pudding-dish upon a hot hearth, and brown the 
 top of the pudding with a salamander. This 
 being done, cover the browned top with a thick 
 layer of clarified Ijutter and pounded white 
 sugar. Hold the salamander over it again, 
 until the butter and sugar are quite brown and 
 candied. This pudding does not require to be 
 baked — it must be put on the hot hearth and 
 prepared, as directed, in the same dish as it is 
 sent to table in. Some add to the ingredients 
 a little nutmeg or mace, but this is a matter 
 of taste. 
 
RIC 
 
 710 
 
 RIC 
 
 RICE PUDDING, GROUND. 
 
 Beat a quarter of a pjqund of ground rice 
 gradually to a smooth paste with half a pint of 
 mjulk. Psur a pint of boiling milk over it, and 
 let. it boil for a quarter of an hour, stirring it 
 all, the time. When it is nearly cold stir into 
 it three ounces of finely-shredded beef suet (or, 
 if preferred, use a slice of butter), two table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar, a little grated nutmeg or 
 lemon-rind for flavouring, and from two to four 
 well-beaten eggs. A table-spoonful of brandy 
 may be added if liked. Pour the rice into a 
 well-buttered dish, and bake in a moderate 
 oven. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour 
 to one hour. Probable cost, 9d., if made with 
 two eggs. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 RICE PUDDING, ICED. 
 
 Wash six ounces of the best Carolina rice, and 
 pick out the discoloured grains. Put it into a 
 saucepan with plenty of water, and boil it until 
 the grains are tender without being broken. 
 Drain it, pour over it half a pint of thick cream, 
 and boil it again until it is very soft. Turn it 
 out, beat well, sweeten, and flavour it with 
 lemon, nutmeg, vanilla, or almonds. Put it 
 into a plain mould, and freeze it until it is 
 sufficiently firm. Serve it on a neatly-folded 
 napkin. Time to boil the rice,, about two hours. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 RICE PUDDING, RICH. 
 
 Wash six ounces of rice, and boil it in as much 
 water as will thoroughly cover it for twenty 
 minutes. Drain it, and beat it up with a pinch 
 of salt, a slice of fresh butter, a quarter of a 
 pint of cream, a quarter of a pound of picked 
 and dried currants, a table-spoonful of brandy, 
 a flavouring of nutmeg, cinnamon, or lemon- 
 rind, and four well-beaten eggs. Pour the mix- 
 ture into a buttered dish, and bake in a 
 moderate oven. Send sifted sugar to table with 
 it. Time to bake, one hour. Probable cost. 
 Is. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 RICE PUDDING, RICH (Soyer's recipe). 
 
 Put half a pound of washed rice into a stew- 
 pan, with three pints of milk, one pint of water, 
 three ounces of sugar, the peel of one lemon, 
 one ounce of fresh butter; boil gently for half 
 an hour, or until the rice is tender; add four 
 eggs well beaten, mix well, and bake quickly for 
 half an hour, and serve. The pudding may be 
 steamed if preferred. 
 
 RICE PUDDINGS, SAVOURY. 
 
 No. 1. — Boil half a pound of rice in a quart of 
 milk till it is tender without being broken. Pour 
 it into a bowl, and mix with it a pinch of salt, 
 a t«a-spoonful of white pepper, a tea-spoonful 
 of dry mustard, three table-spoonfuls of grated 
 cheese, and three eggs. Beat the pudding well, 
 turn it into a buttered dish, and bake in a 
 well-heated oven. Probabld cost, la. 3d. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. Time to bake, 
 about one hour. No. 2. — ^Boil half a pound of 
 rice in a quart of milk till it is tender and 
 has absorbed the liquor. Turn it into a bowl, 
 and when cool mix with it ' tea-spoonful of 
 salt, a tea-spoonful of white pepper, a dessert- 
 spoonful of shredded parsley,, and two moderate- 
 sized onions which have been boiled till tender 
 
 and pounded with a slice of fresh butter. Mix 
 these ingredients thoroughly, and add three 
 well - beaten eggs. Turn the pudding into a 
 buttered dish, and bake in a well-heated oven. 
 Time to bake, three-quarters to one hour. 
 Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 RICE PUDDING, WITH JAM. 
 
 Wash four ounces of rice, and drain it. Put 
 it into a saucepan with a pint of milk, and let 
 it simmer gently for half an hour. Add two 
 ounces of fresh butter, and simmer again until 
 it is quite soft. Pour it out, sweeten and flavour 
 with any agreeable flavouring, and beat it up 
 with two well-whisked eggs. Turn it into a 
 plain mould well buttered, and bake in a gentle 
 oven. Turn it out befoi-e serving, and garnish 
 with any bright-coloured jam spread round or 
 upon it. Time to bake, half an hour. Prob- 
 able cost, 9d. Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 RICE PUFFS. 
 
 Take a pint of rice-flour, and add enough 
 boiling water or milk to make a batter. When 
 cold, add four eggs well beaten, together with a 
 tea-spoonful of salt. Drop this in large spoon- 
 fuls into hot fat, and fry to a light brown. 
 
 RICE, PYRAMIDS OF. 
 
 Boil in milk until it is very soft as much rice 
 as is required. Beat it well to a smooth paste, 
 and press it into small moulds of a pyramid 
 shape, or, failing these, mould it with a spoon 
 into small pyramids about three inches high. 
 Take a little rice out of the centre of these, and 
 fill the empty space with a savoury mince of any 
 kind. Serve the pyramids on a dish, and pour 
 rich brown gravy round them. Garnish the dish 
 with sippets. 
 
 RICE RINGS, SAVOURY. 
 
 Boil some rice as for curry, mix it when cool 
 with seasoning to taste and a little butter ; add 
 the white of an egg, spread the mass out on a 
 tin to the thickness of half an inch, and cut 
 out with a round cutter two inches in diameter. 
 Cut the centres out with a smaller cutter, leav- 
 ing the rings half an inch wide. Egg and bread- 
 crumb them, and fry them in boiling fat to a 
 nice brown. ' These may be used to garnish 
 minces or hashes, or the centre can be filled in 
 with any nice mince or with the yolks of hard- 
 boiled eggs coated with a good sauce. 
 
 RICE SANDWICHES. 
 
 Take an ounce each of ground rice, flour, but- 
 ter, and castor sugar, a tea-spoonful of baking- 
 powder and an egg. Beat all well together for 
 five minutes, then spread thinly on to a well- 
 buttered tin, and bake in a quick oven for five 
 minutes. Turn out upon a sugared paper; 
 spread half with strawberry jam, press the other 
 half lightly on it, and cut into pieces as sand- 
 wiches. Arrange neatly, and scatter sugar over. 
 Probable cost, 9d. 
 
 RICE SAUCE: A SUBSTITUTE FOR BREAD 
 SAUCE. 
 
 Wash two ounces of rice, drain it, and simmer 
 until tender in half a pint of milk with a 
 moderate-sized onion, half a dozen peppercorns, 
 and a pinch of salt. Take out the onion and 
 peppercorns, and rub the rice through a sieve ; 
 
mc 
 
 7U. 
 
 RIO 
 
 boil it up a^ain with a little more milk if too 
 thick, and dissolve a small piece of butter in it. 
 A piece of mace or six allspice may be stewed in 
 the sauce if liked. Time, one hour. Probable 
 cost, 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 RICE SAVOURY. 
 
 No. 1. — ^Wash a pound of rice, and put it into 
 a saucepan with three pints of water, a red 
 herring freed from skin and bone and torn into 
 flakes, three ounces of bacon (fat and lean to- 
 gether) cut into dice, a few peppercorns, and a 
 small sprig of thyme and parsley. Let the water 
 boil, then draw the saucepan to the side of the 
 fire, and let the rice simmer gently until it is 
 tender and has absorbed the liquor. Turn it 
 upon a dish, and serve hot. Time, three-quar- 
 ters of an hour to one hour. Probable cost, 9d. 
 Sufficient for eight or nine persons. No. 2. — 
 Wash half a pound of best Carolina rice, throw 
 it into boiling water, and let it boil quickly for 
 ten minutes. Drain it, and<put it into a sauce- 
 pan with half a pint of good gravy, two ounces 
 of fresh butter, a, tea-spoonful of chutney, a 
 dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice, the thin rind 
 of half a lemon, a, tea-spoonful of salt, a, tea- 
 spoonful of sugar, half a tea-spoonful of white 
 pepper, and half a tea-spoonful of grated nut- 
 meg. Stir the rice well, and simmer gently 
 until it is tender and has absorbed the liquor. 
 Serve very hot. Time, three-quarters to one 
 hour. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. 
 
 RICE SAVOURY (another way). 
 
 Boil two eggs lightly, scoop them out of their 
 shells, add a little butter to them, and mix 
 them with a plateful of hot boiled rice. Use 
 this preparation with meat or fish; it will be 
 found pleasant and agreeable food. 
 
 RICE SAVOURY (another way). 
 
 Wash half a pound of rice, and throw it into 
 fast-boiling water for five minutes. Drain it, 
 simmer it gently with as much nicely-flavoured 
 stock as will cover it, and . when it is tender, 
 without being broken, stir into it a slice of fresh 
 butter. Mince finely the yolks of four hard- 
 boiled eggs, and mix with them two ounces of 
 grated Parmesan or Cheshire cheese and half a 
 tea-spoonful of white pepper. Mix them with 
 the rice, and serve hot. Time, about half an 
 hour to simmer the rice. Probable cost. Is. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 RICE SNOWBALLS. 
 
 Wash half a pound of rice, and boil it for half 
 an hour in as much milk and water as will cover 
 it. Drain it, and let it stand till cold. Pare 
 six apples of equal size. Scoop out the cores 
 without breaking the fruit, and put into the 
 empty space a little piece of butter, a spoonful 
 of sugar, and a little grated lemon-rind or some 
 powdered cinnamon. Flour as many small 
 cloths as there are apples; spread upon each 
 one as much rice, half an inch thick, as will 
 cover an apple, lay the apple upon it, and tie 
 it loosely but securely. Put the puddings into 
 boiling water, and keep them boiling until done 
 enough. Turn out upon a dish, and serve sweet 
 sauce, wine sauce, or custard with them. Time 
 to boil, one hour. Probable cost, IJd. each pud- 
 ding. Sufficient for six puddings. 
 
 RICE SNOWBALLS (another way). 
 
 Boil six ounces of rice in a quart of milk which 
 has been sweetened and fiavoured with lemon, 
 almond, vanilla, or cinnamon, according to 
 taste. When the rice is quite tender and has, 
 absorbed the milk, turn it out, and beat it well 
 for a few minutes, then press it into small cups, 
 which have been allowed to lie in cold water for 
 some time. Let it remain until cold and stiff, 
 and make a pint of custard flavoured in the 
 same way as the rice. Before serving, turn the 
 rice out of the small moulds upon a glass dish, 
 pour the custard round the balls, and place upon 
 the top of each a spoonful of bright-coloured 
 jam — apricot and red currant jam are very suit^ 
 able. Time, about one hour to boil the rice. 
 Probable cost, exclusive of the custard, lOd. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 RICE SOLID. 
 
 Beat a quarter of a pound of ground rice to a, 
 smooth paste with a little milk, and stir into it 
 as much boiling milk — or milk and cream if pre- 
 ferred — as will make the quantity up to a quart. 
 Sweeten the mixture, and flavour with any ac- 
 ceptable flavouring. A table-spoonful of brandy 
 will improve it. Simmer gently, and continue 
 stirring until it leaves the saucepan. When 
 done enough, let it cool a little, and pour 
 it into a ^ass dish. Before serving lay upon 
 it a pint of cream which has been whipped to 
 foam. (jSee Cream, WnippEn.) Time to boil 
 the rice, half an hour. Probable cost, exclusive 
 of the cream, 7d. Sufficient for five or six per- 
 sons. 
 
 RICE SOUFFLE. 
 
 Prepare the rice as for Gateau de Eiz (see Bice, 
 Gateau or), only keep the rice rather more 
 limpid, and put in the whites of two more eggs ; 
 that is to say, in a rice cake you put eight yolks 
 and as many whites, whereas in a souffle you 
 put only six yolks and eight whites, and a little 
 more butter to determine the souffle. To flavour 
 the souffle, use either lemon-peel, vanilla, 
 orange, orange-flower, noyeau, maraschino, cof- 
 fee, or any other desired flavouring. 
 
 RICE SOUFFLE (another way). 
 
 Wash six table-spoonfuls of rice, and throw it 
 into quickly - boiling water for flve minutes. 
 Drain it, and put it into a clean saucepan with 
 a quart of milk, a pinch of salt, four table- 
 spoonfuls of powdered sugar, two ounces of but- 
 ter, and any flavouring that may be liked, such 
 as orange, lemon, vanilla, coffee, chocolate, 
 orange-flower water, rose-water, or any liqueur. 
 If the rice is not sweet enough to suit the 
 palate, a little more sugar may be added, but it 
 should be remembered that the less used the 
 lighter will be the souffle. Let the rice boil, 
 put the lid on the saucepan, and simmer very 
 slowly until it is tender and has absorbed the 
 milk. Let it cool a little, then add, one at a 
 time, the well-whisked yolks of six e^gs. Warm 
 and butter a souffle-dish or tin which the pre- 
 paration will half fill, or, failing these, use a 
 deep pie-dish or thin earthenware basin. Whisk 
 the whites of the eggs to a firm froth. Mix 
 them lightly with the rice, and bake the souffle 
 at once after they are added. In order to ascer- 
 tain whether the souffle is sufficiently baked. 
 
RIC 
 
 712 
 
 RIO 
 
 run a straw into the centre of it. If it is set 
 throughout, it is done enough. It should be 
 baked in a quick oyen. Sift sugar over the top, 
 tie a hot napkin round the tin, and serve imme- 
 diately. The success of a souffle depends on 
 the ingredients being well beaten, frothed, and 
 mixed on their being put into the dish ; on their 
 being baked immediately afterwards; on the 
 sufficient temperature of the oven; and on the 
 rapid transfer of the souffle from the oven to 
 the dining-room. Time to bake, about twenty 
 minutes. Probable cost. Is. lOd. Sufficient for 
 six or seven persons. 
 
 RICE SOUFFLE MADE WITH GROUND RICE. 
 
 Mix three table-spoonfuls of ground rice to a 
 smooth paste, add gradually as much more as 
 will make the quantity up to one pint, and a 
 pinch of butter about the size of a walnut. Stir 
 the mixture over the fire for about a quarter of 
 an hour, or until it thickens, then pour it out, 
 and when it is a little cool add some siigar and 
 any flavouring that may be liked. file less 
 sugar used the lighter will be the souffle. Add, 
 one by one, the well-beaten yolks of five eggs, 
 and just before the souffle is put into the oven, 
 stir in the whites of six eggs beaten to a firm 
 froth. Proceed according to the directions 
 given in the preceding recipe. Bake the souffle 
 in a brisk oven, and serve as quickly as possible 
 after it is taken out. Time to bake, half an 
 hour. Probable cost, if made with milk. Is. 3d. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 RICE SOUP. 
 
 Take one-eighth of a pound of Carolina 
 rice, picked clean, and washed in two or three 
 different waters till no smell or dirt remain. 
 Blanch it in boiling water, and drain it. Then 
 take some rich broth or stock, season it well, 
 throw the rice in and let it boil, but not so as 
 to be too much done, for then it breaks and 
 does not look well. 
 
 RICE SOUP (another way). 
 
 Take half a pound of rice, pick and scald it, 
 then put it into five pints of boiling water. 
 When it begins to thicken, add the peel of a 
 lemon and a quarter of a pound of raisins. 
 When the soup has boiled enough, beat up the 
 yolks of four eggs in a gill of wine, the juice of 
 two lemons, and white or brown sugar to taste, 
 which stir lightly in. Enough for seven persons. 
 
 RICE SOUP, BROWN. 
 
 Take two ounces of Patna rice, boiled as for 
 curry, but left until cold. Put it into a bak- 
 ing-tin with a little melted butter; set it in the 
 oven, and bake it until golden brown all over, 
 and the butter absorbed. It must be turned 
 about from time to time. Meanwhile, peel, 
 mince, and fry an onion in a little more butter 
 until nearly tender; drain it and put it in a 
 pan, with the rice, a quart of stock, a tea-spoon- 
 ful of mushroom ketchup, and a table-spoonful 
 of tomato ketchup. Boil till the onion is quite 
 soft, and serve hot. Probable cost, 8d., ex- 
 cluding the stock. 
 
 RICE SOUP, ITALIAN. 
 
 Wash four ounces of rice, drain it, and put it 
 into a saucepan with two ounces of fresh butter, 
 a cupful of stock, and a seasoning of salt and 
 
 white pepper. Let it simmer gently until it is 
 tender. Cut two large turnips into small pieces, 
 and fry these in butter till they are lightly 
 browned. Drain the fat from them, and stew 
 them in about a pint of stock. Add the boiled 
 rice, and serve. Send grated Parmesan to table 
 with the soup. Time, one hour and a half. 
 Probable cost, exclusive of the stock, 9d. Suf- 
 ficient for two or three persons. 
 
 RICE SOUP, MADE WITH FRESH MEAT, 
 
 Take one pound of the knuckle of veal, one 
 pound of gravy-beef, half a pound of lean ham, 
 and any bones and trimmings that may be at 
 hand. Cut the ham into dice and the meat into 
 pieces an inch square. Dissolve a slice of fresh 
 butter in a stewpan, put in the ham, then the 
 rest of the meat, and add two carrots, two 
 onions', each one stuck with one clove, half a 
 dozen outer sticks of celery, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, and a blade of mace. Cover the stew 
 pan closely, and lefc its contents steam over a 
 gentle fire until the gravy flows from the meat. 
 Pour this gravy out, and shake the stewpan 
 over the fire till the meat is brown, pour over 
 it three pints of boiling water, and let it stew 
 gently until the liquor is reduced to a quart. 
 Skim carefully, strain, and then add it to the 
 gravy. Put into it two ounces of rice which 
 has been boiled in water till tender, drained, 
 and dried. Season the soup with pepper and 
 salt, and serve very hot. Time, three hours. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 8d. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 RICE SOUP, ROYAL. 
 
 Put two fowls with a, large knuckle of veal 
 into a stock-pot ; fill it with beef stock, skim it, 
 and add a carrot, a turnip, an onion, half a head 
 of celery, and two leeks ; boil for five hours, take 
 off all the fat carefully, and strain the consomme 
 through a napkin ; put half of it into a middler 
 sized stewpan with six ounces of Carolina rice 
 washed and blanched, simmer it for two hours, 
 then break it with a wooden spoon, and add the 
 rest of the consomme ; whilst boiling, and at the 
 time of serving, put a spoonful into a puree of 
 fowl, prepared in the usual manner, then re- 
 commence this operation twice, pour the puree 
 thus made thin into the tureen, and on it the 
 remainder of the rice by degrees, that it may be 
 well mingled, for if you pour the rice in quickly, 
 you run the risk of decomposing or curdling the 
 puree of fowl, which ought to be rendered 
 smooth in mingling the soup. 
 
 RICE SOUP (suitable for children or sick persons). 
 W^ash four ounces of rice in three or four 
 waters, drain it, and boil it gently with two 
 quarts of beef or veal stock until it is tender 
 without being broken. Season with a little salt 
 and white pepper, and if the stock is already 
 seasoned, be careful that it is not served too 
 salt, owing to evaporation. If clear soup is 
 wanted, the rice can be boiled separately in 
 water until the grains are tender without being 
 broken, then dropped into the clear soup, and 
 allowed to remain a few minutes without sim- 
 mering, or the rice may be boiled in thin, nicely- 
 flavoured stock, strained, and put into the soup- 
 tureen, the clear soup being then poured over 
 it. Time, one hour. Sufficient for six or eight 
 persons. 
 
RIC 
 
 713 
 
 RIC 
 
 mCE SOUP, SUPERIOR. 
 
 Wash well four ounces of rice, and boil it in 
 two quarts of veal stock till tender, drain it, 
 and put the stock with half the rice back into 
 the stewpau, rub the rest through a fine sieve, 
 then stir it into the soup, and let it boil up. 
 Beat the yolks of three eggs with half a pint of 
 cream, take the soup off the fire for two minutes, 
 then add the eggs and cream gradually, and stir 
 the soup unceasingly for three or four minutes 
 until it is thoroughly hot, but it must not boil 
 again or the eggs will curdle. Time, two hours. 
 Sufficient for eight or ten persons. 
 RICE SOUP, WHITE. 
 
 Wash a, quarter of a pound of best Carolina 
 rice in, two or three waters, throw it into fast- 
 boiliug water, and keep it boiling for five min- 
 utes. Drain it on a sieve, and put it into two 
 C[uarts of nicely-flavoured white stock, also boil- 
 ing. Let all siminer gently together until the 
 rice is tender. Add three-«[uarters of a pint of 
 thick cream, season with salt, cayenne, and 
 pounded mace, simmer a minute or two longer, 
 and serve. Time, one hour. Sufficient for six 
 or eight persons. 
 
 RICE, SPANISH WAY OF COOKING. 
 
 Boil half a pound of rice as for curry. If 
 liked, broth can be used instead of water. Dry 
 it well, and fry it with a slice of butter till it 
 is lightly browned. Stir into it two large ripe 
 tomatoes, or failing these a table-spoonful of 
 tomato sauce and a table-spoonful of grated 
 cheese; season it with white pepper. Work 
 it lightly with two forks, and serve it, piled 
 high in a hot dish, with slices of ham, bacon, 
 or German sausage round it ; failing these, use 
 dried haddock, herring, or smoked salmon in 
 strips. Time, a few minutes to brown the 
 rice. Probable cost, 7d., exclusive of the meat 
 or fish round the rice. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 RICE, STEAMED. 
 
 Use a potato steamer, and proceed as follows. 
 Spread at the bottom a piece of muslin or a 
 thin cloth ; put the rice on this in an even layer 
 — the thinner the layer the quicker it will cook. 
 Have the water well salted, and keep it boiling 
 fast. Turn the rice about if the layer is thick, 
 that the top may get equally cooked. It will 
 take from one to two hours, according to the 
 quantity and kind of rice. This is a convenient 
 and economical method, as a pudding, or any- 
 thing of a mild flavour, can be boiled under it, 
 and the rice will be perfectly cooked. 
 
 RICE STEW SOUP. 
 
 Take four pounds of good ox-cheek. Wash 
 and soak it for twelve hours in cold water, then 
 dry it well, put it into a stewpan with three 
 quarts of water, four onions, a bunch of herbs, 
 a sliced carrot, two or three sticks of celery, and 
 a seasoning of salt, pepper, and cayenne. Sim- 
 mer the meat gently for two hours, then take it 
 out, cut it into pieces convenient for serving, 
 and return it to the saucepan with six ounces of 
 well-washed rice. Simmer all together till the 
 rice is tender. If liked, this soup may be 
 thickened with a little curry-powder, or with a 
 little brown thickening, and cow-heels may be 
 used instead of ox-cheek in its preparation. 
 
 Time, four hours. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient 
 for seven or eight persons. 
 
 RICE STUFFING FOR SUCKING PIG. 
 
 Rice is frequently used as a stuffing for suck- 
 ing pig, and also for breast of veal. To prepare 
 it, boil the rice till it is quite tender, and dry it 
 perfectly. Mix with it a fourth of its quantity in 
 split peas, also boiled till soft and dried ; flavour 
 the mixture with pepper and salt and a little 
 finely minced ham, beat it well, and it will be 
 ready for use. 
 
 RICE TART. 
 
 Wash a small tea-cupful of rice, and simmer 
 it with a quart of milk until it is tender. Beat 
 it well, and mix with it a pinch of salt, a little 
 sugar, a flavouring of nutmeg, cinnamon, or 
 lemon, and three eggs. Line a pie-dish with good 
 pastry, spread the rice upon it, and bake in a 
 quick oven. Before serving, sprinkle the sur- 
 face with sifted sugar. Time to bake, half an 
 hour. Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. 
 
 RICE TURBAN. 
 
 Prepare the rice as in the recipe, Eice, Cas 
 SBBOLE or. Cut some apples into quarters, and 
 stew them in syrup. Take particular care that 
 the quarters are kept whole. Dish the rice ; put 
 a gallipot in the centre, to form a vacancy, into 
 which you are afterwards to pour a vanilla 
 cream. Dress the rice round the gallipot, and 
 level it with the back of a spoon. Next place 
 the apples round the rice, till you have reached 
 the summit of it, and put the whole into the 
 oven, but only leave it there time enough to dry 
 up the syrup which sticks round the apples. 
 Next decorate with crystallized fruits of differ- 
 ent colours, such as greengages, apricots, and 
 cherries; and when you are ready to send up, 
 remove the gallipot and fill the vacancy with 
 the vanilla cream. 
 
 RICE, VARIETIES OF. 
 
 What is known in England as cargo rice is a 
 Bengalese variety, having a reddish cast and 
 being rather coarse-looking. The unusual size 
 and sweetness of the ffrain, however, cause it 
 to be esteemed by the Hindoos above all other 
 kinds. 
 
 The red rice, sometimes seen in American 
 shipments scattered among the white grains, is 
 not a. distinct variety, like that of the Ben- 
 galese, but is the result of careless cultivation. 
 Seeds of the whitest kinds, allowed to fall' into 
 the earth at harvest, and to lie there all the 
 winter, will mature the next year into red rice. 
 Its presence is regarded as a blemish. 
 
 Tlie small variety known as Patna, and re- 
 markable for the slenderness and whiteness of 
 the grain, is no doubt the best known and most 
 highly esteemed in Europe of all the Eastern 
 importations. 
 
 The Carolina rice, acknowledged to be the best 
 in the world, is cultivated in its greatest perfec- 
 tion at Wacamaw, near Georgetown, South Caro- 
 lina, and on the Savannah and Altamalia rivers ; 
 but can be produced in equal perfection along 
 the tideway of the Floridas, as well as of Caro- 
 lina and Georgia. Of the many sub-varieties in 
 favour with American rice-planters the two most 
 highly prized are the white and the golden, so 
 
RiC 
 
 714 
 
 RIO 
 
 called from the colour of their chaff. Both 
 kinds produce abundant crops, and turn out 
 beautiful grains ; but the white is preferred by 
 seme planters as being more prolific, and better 
 suited to a highland or semi-highland culture; 
 and the golden is preferred by others as better 
 suited to tide-water culture, and as furnishing 
 more pearly grain. 
 
 RICE WAFFLES. 
 
 Boil a quarter of a pint of rice in a very little 
 water till it is tender. Brain it, and beat it well 
 while hot with an ounce of butter. Add six 
 ounces of flour, the well-beaten yolks of four 
 eggs, and as much milk as will form a batter — 
 a little less than a pint will be required. Beat 
 the whites of the eggs till firm, and add them 
 to the batter at the last moment. Be sure to 
 beat all well together, and to make the batter 
 lighter pour it backwards and forwards from a 
 good height for a few minutes. Make the 
 waffle-iron hot, rub dissolved butter over every 
 part of it, and allow a large spoonful of 
 the mixture for each of the cakes. Close the 
 iron, and set it over a stove, or over hot 
 coals, turn the iron over at the end of six or 
 eight minutes, then open it, and if the cake is 
 nicely coloured and leaves the iron easily it is 
 done enough. When pouring in the batter be 
 very careful to leave sufficient room in the iron 
 for the batter to rise. Time to bake the waffles, 
 about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 
 for this quantity. Is. 3d. Sufficient for six or 
 eight persons. 
 
 RICE-WATER. 
 
 Put seven pints of water to boil, add to it 
 two ounces of washed rice, two ounces of sugar, 
 and the peel of two-thirds of a lemon; boil 
 gently for three-quarters of an hour ; the liquid 
 will reduce to five pints ; strain through a colan- 
 der, and the rice-water will be ready. The rice 
 may be left in the beverage or made into a pud- 
 ding, or by the addition of a little sugar or jam 
 it will be found very good for either children 
 or invalids. 
 
 RICE, WATER. 
 
 The water rice (Zizania aquatica) is abundant 
 in Wisconsin and other parts of North America, 
 on the swampy margins of streams in shallow 
 water. A gently-flowing current, where the 
 water is from two to six or eight feet deep, is 
 the most favourable habitat for this plant, which 
 forms an important article of food among; the 
 Indian tribes. They obtain it bjr paddling a 
 canoe among the plants, when, with a hooked 
 stick, they draw the stems over the canoe and 
 beat off the grain. The harvest only lasts for 
 a very few days, as, when, ripe, the grain is 
 shaken off by the slightest touch, and if the 
 wind should blow hard for a day or two the rice 
 is all lost. It is gathered both "in the milk" 
 and after it is mature. The Indians take it to 
 their camp, and put it into pans, when it is 
 roasted until the husks become dry and reddish ; 
 they then, place it in sacks, and pound it by 
 striking on the outside so as to separate the 
 grain from the husk. It is winnowed, and is 
 then ready for use. Those who have tried it 
 prefer the Zizania to the ordinary rice of com- 
 merce. 
 
 RICE-WATER, FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 Wash two ounces of rice in several waters, 
 boil it gently for two hours and a half, and stir 
 frequently. Strain it through a flne sieve, and 
 rub through the glutinous part, but not that 
 which is firm. When the liquor is cold it is 
 ready for use. A table-spoonful of raisins is 
 sometimes boiled with the rice. If the water is 
 wanted quickly, boil three ounces of rice for half 
 an hour in a quart of water. 
 
 RICE, WITH PEARS. 
 
 Wash six ounces of rice, and put it into a 
 saucepan with a quart of milk, the thin rind of 
 a lemon, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and a 
 piece of butter the size of a small uut. Stir the 
 rice till it boils, then draw it from the fire, and 
 let it simmer gently until it is quite tender and 
 has absorbed the milk. Take it from the fire, 
 and beat it well for three or four minutes, press 
 it into a damp mould, and set it in a cool place 
 to stiffen. Peel and halve a dozen or more ripe 
 pears. Put these into a saucepan with the 
 strained juice of two lemons, a small cupful of 
 water, and half a pound of sugar. Let them 
 simmer till they are tender without being 
 broken. Lift them out gently, and lay them on 
 a dish to cool. Boil the syrup until thick, and, 
 if liked, dissolve in it one or two table-spoonfuls 
 of apricot marmalade. When the rice is to be 
 served, turn it out of the mould, lay the baked 
 pears round it, pour the syrup over, and garnish 
 the rice prettily with angelica, or with strips of 
 lemon-rind laid over it, or with slices of lemon 
 laid upon it. Many cooks stir into the rice after 
 it has boiled four well-beaten eggs and a slice 
 of butter, and beat it over the fire till it is 
 thick, but it will be excellent without these if 
 only the rice is simmered till it is dry, and after- 
 wards beaten till it is smooth. Time, two hours. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d., exclusive of the apricot 
 marmalade. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 RICE, WITH STEWED FRUIT (to have the same 
 effect as cream^ 
 Put a breakfast-cupful of rice into a quart of 
 new milk, boil gently for half an hour, stirring 
 occasionally that it may not burn, and stand it 
 aside to get cold. Serve with any kind of 
 stewed fruit, and it will have as good an effect 
 as cream, and will be much more ukely to agree 
 with most people. Probable cost, 6d., without 
 the fruit. 
 
 RICHELIEU SAUCE. 
 
 Chop up very fine six ounces of mushrooms 
 lightly fried in butter and one or two truffles 
 peeled. Put into a saucepan two small spoon- 
 fuls of veloute sauce (see VELouTf! SA^'CE), re- 
 duce it slightly, then take it off the fire and 
 mix in the mushrooms and truffles; add three 
 yolks of eggs, well beaten, and boil the sauce 
 for two or three minutes, stirring it all the time. 
 Just before serving mix in a piece of butter, but 
 do not let it boil again. Probable cost. Is.' 6d. 
 
 RICHMOND EEL PIE. 
 
 Skin, draw, and cut into two-inch lengths two 
 good-sized eels, wash them in salt and water, 
 and dry them in a cloth. Put them into a stew- 
 pan with an ounce and a half of butter, two 
 table-spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, one 
 table-spoonful of chopped parsley, one onion, or 
 
RIQ 
 
 715 
 
 RIS 
 
 a small clove of shallot finely shredded, a little 
 pepper and salt, a bay-leaf, an inch of lemon- 
 rind, a glass of sherry, and as much stock made 
 from bones as will barely cover the eels. Bring 
 the sauce slowly to the boil, skim it, and as it 
 rises in the pan lift out the pieces of eel, and 
 lay them in a pie-dish. Strain the sauce, 
 thicken it with two ounces of flour kneaded with 
 two ounces of butter, add the juice of a lemon, 
 and pour it over the eels in the dish. Place on 
 the top the hard-boiled yolks of three or four 
 eggs. Line the edges of the dish with pastry, 
 cover with the same, brush over with egg, orna- 
 ment the pie, and bake in a well-heated oven. 
 It may be served either hot or cold. Time to 
 bake, about one hour. Probable cost, 48. to 6s. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 RICHMOND PUDDINGS. 
 
 Bake three large apples. Scrape out every 
 particle of pulp free from skin and core, and 
 mix with it two ounces of fresh butter, four 
 ounces of finely - gfrated bread-crumbs, three 
 table-spoonfuls of sugar, a little grated nutmeg 
 or rasped lemon-rind, add half a pint of cream 
 or milk, the yolks of four and the whites of two 
 eggs. Mix thoroughly. Butter some cups, half 
 fill them with the mixture, sprinkle a few bread- 
 crumbs over the top, and bake in a well-heated 
 oven. When done enough, turn the puddings 
 out carefully upon a hot dish, sift powdered 
 sugar over them, and send a light custard to 
 table with them. Time to bake, twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost, if made with milk. Is. 3d. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 RINGS OF PASTRY, ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 Roll out some puff-paste to the thickness of a 
 quarter of an inch. Stamp it out in rounds an 
 inch and a half in diameter, and cut out the 
 centre of these with a smaller cutter, half an 
 inch in diameter. Brush the rings over with 
 beaten egg, shake finely-powdered sugar over 
 them, and bake thsni on a slightly-buttered 
 baking-sheet in a gentle oven till they are lightly 
 browned. Cover with sugar icing, put them in 
 a cool oven or in a screen to dry, and ornament 
 with dots or folds of bright-coloured jelly. Or, 
 blanch some almonds, and chop them small. 
 Put them in a bov ind beat them up with a 
 little white of egg aud powdered sugar ; brush 
 the rings with egg, and strew the chopped al- 
 monds over them. Bake in a gentle oven, and 
 a minute or two before they are taken out put 
 a preserved cherry, well drained from the syrup, 
 in the centre of the ring. "When lightly coloured 
 take out the rings, and put them on a wire sieve 
 to cool. Time to bake, about a quarter of an 
 hour. 
 RINK CAKE. 
 
 Take three-quarters of a pound of fresh butter, 
 beat it up, and add to it three-quarters of a 
 pound of sugar, one pound of flour, the yolks of 
 seven eggs and the whites of four beaten to a 
 snow. When these ingredients are thoroughly in- 
 corporated, butter a sheet of white paper, and 
 spread the paste upon it rather thinly; have 
 ready some almonds blanched and sliced; lay 
 them upon the paste in rows, strewing currants 
 between; strew sifted sugar over the whole. 
 When the cake is baked of a light-brown colour, 
 cut it into squares while warm, in such a way 
 
 that there will be almonds and cvtrrants on each 
 square. Bemove the paper quickly. 
 
 RISOTTO. 
 
 This is an elegant Italian dish, the principal 
 ingredient of which is rice. Shred onions into 
 a frying-pan with plenty of butter, and fry till 
 the onions become very brown and communicate 
 their colour to the butter. Run the butter off, 
 and add to this some rich broth, slightly 
 flavoured with saffron; thicken the whole with 
 well-boiled rice, and serve up as a pottage, in- 
 stead of soup, at the beginning of dinner. 
 
 RISSABLES. 
 
 Chop veal and ham finely together, add a few 
 bread-crumbs, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a little 
 parsley and lemon-peel or shallot. Mix these in- 
 gredients together with the yolks of two eggs 
 well beaten. Eoll the preparation into shape 
 like a flat sausage, or into the shape of pears, 
 sticking a bit of horse-radish in the ends to 
 represent the stalks; egg over each, and grate 
 bread-crumbs upon them. Fry to a brown 
 colour, and serve on crisp fried parsley. 
 
 RISSOLES. 
 
 Rissoles are composed of savoury mince of 
 any kind enclosed in pastry and fried. They 
 may be served with gravy, or they may be sent 
 up dry on a neatly-folded napkin. The latter is 
 the more usual manner. They are chiefly useful 
 as furnishing a convenient and elegant mode of 
 using the remains of cold cooked meat, game, 
 or fish. Patties if fried instead of baked will 
 become rissoles. Rissoles should be thoroughly 
 drained from fat either on a sieve or on blotting- 
 paper before being sent to table. The difference 
 between a rissole and a croquette is that a ris- 
 sole is always fried in pastry, a croquette is 
 egged, breaded, and fried. 
 
 RISSOLES (k la Pompadour). 
 
 Mince as finely as possible two table-spoonfuls 
 of cooked game or chicken, mix it with a table- 
 spoonful of stock or gravy, and season witt 
 pepper and salt. Make a small quantity of pufl- 
 paste; roll it out as thinly as possible, and cut 
 it into two-inch squares. Place a small tea-spoon- 
 ful of mince on one half, and fold over the other 
 eo as to form a diamond shape, and press lightly 
 round, forming the rissole into crescents. Brush 
 them over with beaten egg; crush a table-spoon- 
 ful of vermicelli with the rolling-pin, sprinkle a 
 little over each; arrange the rissoles in a fry- 
 ing-basket, plunge them into boiling fat, and 
 fry a delicate golden brown. Turn on to kit- 
 chen paper to drain, and serve on a hot napkin, 
 garnished with fried parsley. 
 
 RISSOLES, BEEF. 
 
 Take one pound of cold cooked beef. Cut it 
 into thin slices, remove the gristle, and chop the 
 meat finely. Mix with it a dessert-spoonful of 
 chopped parsley, three table-spobnfuls of finely- 
 grated bread-crumbs, a blade of mace finely 
 pounded, and a little pepper and salt. Bind 
 the whole together with a beaten egg- If it is 
 not sufficiently moist with this, add a little 
 meat gravy and a spoonful of ketchup. Roll 
 out the trimmings of puff-paste to the thickness 
 of a florin. Place small balls of mince, two 
 inches from the edge and one inch distant from 
 
RI8 
 
 716 
 
 RIS 
 
 each other, moisten the pastry round the meat 
 with water, and fold it over the balls. Stamp 
 the rissoles out in rounds, and press the edges 
 securely together. Dredge lightly with flour, 
 and then fry in fat, not too hot, till they are 
 browned. Drain them, and serve on a napkin 
 garnished with parsley. Or, prepare the mince 
 as above. Boll out the pastry, and stamp it in 
 rounds two inches in diameter. Place a little 
 ball of meat in the centre, moisten the edges of 
 the pastry, draw it up over the meat, and pinch 
 it securely. Or, stamp out an equal number of 
 rounds. Place a little ball of meat upon one 
 round, moisten the edges, and lay another round 
 upon it. Press the edges of the pastry securely 
 together, and flute them with the back of a 
 knife. Time to fry, five or six minutes. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 6d. for this quantity. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. 
 
 RISSOLES (Careme's recipe). 
 
 Take three-quarters of a pound of brioche 
 paste. Roll it out very thin, and place upon it 
 — about two inches from the edge and one inch 
 from each other — small balls of any savoury 
 mince about the size of a nutmeg. Brush the 
 pasty round the mince with beaten egg, fold it 
 over the meat. Press it round each ball, stamp 
 out the rissoles with a pastry-cutter two inches 
 in diameter, taking care to keep the mince-meat 
 ball exactly in the centre of each one. Lay the 
 rissoles on a hot plate for two or three minutes 
 to make them rise, and fry in butter or lard, not 
 too hot, till they are brown. They will become 
 quite round. Drain them from the fat, and 
 serve very hot. 
 
 RISSOLES, COLD MUTTON, CHICKEN, TURKEY, 
 VEAL, ETC. 
 
 Prepare the mince, and proceed as in the last 
 recipe, substituting mutton, veal, or poultry, 
 for the beef. With veal and poultry, the weight 
 of a fourth part of the meat in lean ham, tongue, 
 or bacon, may be added to the mince, and the 
 flavouring may be varied to suit the palate. 
 
 RISSOLES, FISH. 
 
 Take the remains of cooked fish, freed from 
 bone, pound it in a mortar with any sauce that 
 was left over, add pepper and salt to taste and 
 a breakfast-cupful of bread-crumbs. Bind with 
 a beaten egg, then form into rissoles. Egg and 
 bread-crumb them, and fry a golden brown. 
 Serve garnished with parsley. 
 
 RISSOLES OF CALVES' BRAINS. 
 
 Take two sets of brains ; let them soak for some 
 time in warm water; skim them carefully, and 
 boil them a quarter of an hour in salt and water ; 
 let them drain; then fry them in four ounces 
 of butter. When they have lost their fluidity, 
 sprinkle them with a spoonful of flour, fry them 
 again a little, and pour over as much broth as 
 will convert them into a thickish fluid; beat 
 up the yolks of three eggs and add to it, that 
 it may become firm and thick ; season with 
 pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg ; and lastly, 
 add two ounces of beef marrow chopped fine, 
 and set it aside to get cold. Roll out puff-paste, 
 stamp it in forms with a cutter, rub the edges 
 with yolk of egg, put a table-spoonful of force- 
 meat in the centre ; lay a piece of the same- 
 Bized paste over, pinch down the edges in the 
 
 shape of a half-moon or any other shape you 
 may fancy ; dip them in egg beaten up, sprinkle 
 them thickly with bread-crumbs, and fry them 
 in hot lard. Serve them quite hot; when you 
 take them out of the pan, throw a handful of 
 fresh-picked parsley into the hot lard; stir it 
 about gently, and when it ceases crackling take 
 it out, at which moment it will be of a fine 
 green and crisp ; sprinkle it with salt, and strew 
 it over the rissoles. 
 RISSOLES, PANCAKE. 
 
 Make some batter as for pancakes. It will be 
 better if made two or three hours before it is 
 wanted. Mince finely some cold cooked veal, 
 and with it a quarter of its weight in lean ham 
 or tongue. Season with salt, pepper, grated 
 nutmeg, and grated lemon-peel. Fry a thin 
 pancake in the usual way. When it is brown 
 on the upper side turn it over, and put into the 
 middle of it two table-spoonfuls of the minced 
 veal. Fold it over at the ends, and at each side, 
 that the meat may not escape, and fry the ris- 
 soles thus made till they are lightly browned. 
 Drain them from the fat, and serve very hot. 
 Time to fry the rissoles with the meat, three or 
 four minutes. Sufficient, five or six for a dish. 
 Probable cost, 4d. each. 
 RISSOLES, PORK. 
 
 Take the remains of boiled leg of pork, free it 
 from all gristle, and put the pieces through a 
 mincing machine, then pound it in a mortar 
 with a little salt, some crushed peppercorns, and 
 an ounce of bread-crumbs ; bind with an egg, 
 and make into balls, flour, and fry them in hot 
 fat until brown. Arrange them on a hot dish, 
 and serve with fried potatoes. 
 
 RISSOLES, POTATO. 
 
 Boil the potatoes until floury; mash them, 
 seasoning with salt and a little cayenne. Mince 
 sonic parsley very fine, fend work it up with the 
 potatoes, adding a shallot, also minced fine. 
 Bind with egg, roll into balls, and fry in fresh 
 butter over a clear fire. Shredded meat may be 
 added if desired. 
 
 RISSOLES, RICE. 
 
 Boil half a pound of rice till soft and dry. 
 Beat it well, and mix with it the well-beaten 
 yolks of three eggs, two table-spoonfuls of good 
 white sauce, and a little pepper, salt, and grated 
 nutmeg. Beat the mixture over the fire till the 
 eggs are set, then turn it upon a dish. When 
 cold, mould a spoonful of it in a tea-cup to a 
 hollow round form, put into the centre any kind 
 of savoury mince, and cover with the rice. Dip 
 the rissoles in egg and bread-crumbs, and fry 
 them in hot fat till they are lightly browned. 
 Drain them, dish them neatly on a napkin, and 
 serve very hot. Time to beat the rice over the 
 fire with the eggs, five minutes. To fry the ris- 
 soles, five or six minutes. Probable cost, 3d. 
 each. Sufficient, eight or ten for a dish. 
 
 RISSOLES, SAVOURY. 
 
 Mince very finely any white meat remaining 
 from cooked poultry, and mix with it a fourth 
 of its weight in ham or tongue. Season with 
 pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and add a 
 fourth part of grated bread-crumbs. Bind the 
 mince together with beaten egg. Instead of 
 pastry, make a forcemeat as follows. With four 
 
RIS 
 
 717 
 
 ROB 
 
 ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs mix a quar- 
 ter of an ounce of minced lemon-rind, a quar- 
 ter of an ounce of powdered savoury herbs, and 
 a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. With 
 the fingers work into the bread two ounces of 
 sweet butter, and the unbeaten yolk of an egg. 
 The forcemeat ought to be sufficiently firm to 
 roll out on a floured board to the thickness of 
 the third of an inch, Roll out the forcemeat, 
 stamp it into rounds, lay upon one of these a 
 small ball of minced chicken, put another force- 
 meat round upon it, and repeat until the meat 
 is used. Close the edges securely, dip the ris- 
 soles in egg and bread-crumbs, and fry in hot 
 fat till they are lightly browned. Brain them 
 from the fat, and serve on a neatly-folded nap- 
 kin. Time to fry, five or six,^inutes. 
 
 RISSOLES, SWEET. 
 
 Boll and stamp the pastry in small rounds, 
 as for ordinary rissoles. Lay in the centre a 
 spoonful of jam or marmalade, put a round of 
 pastry on the top, and press the edges securely. 
 Brush the rissoles over with egg, lay a little 
 ring of pastry on the top of each, brush over 
 with egg again, and bake on a "baki^g-tiu in a 
 well-heated orven. When the pastry is set, take 
 the rissoles out, sift finely-powdered sugar over 
 them, and return them to the oven for a few 
 minutes. Serve on a neatly-folded napkin. 
 Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable 
 cost. Id. each. Sufficient, a dozen for a dish. 
 
 ROACH. 
 
 The roach is a fish which inhabits shallow and 
 gently-flowing streams. Its flesh is white, but 
 turns red when boiled; and its compactness is 
 thought by many to have given rise to the pro- 
 verb, " As sound as a roach." It ig more likely, 
 however, that this is derived from the French 
 Toche, or " rock." Boach is in season from Sep- 
 tember to March. It seldom weighs more than 
 a pound and a half. It is best fried. 
 
 ROACH, FRIED. 
 
 Wash the fish, dry them thoroughly with a 
 soft cloth, dredge flour lightly over them, and 
 fry them in hot fat till the flesh leaves the bone 
 easily. Drain, and serve them on a hot diah, 
 garnished with parsley. Send anchovy sauce to 
 table with them. Time to fry, ten minutes. 
 Sufficient, three or four for a dish. Probable 
 cost, uncertain, roach being seldom sold. 
 
 ROAST MEAT, GRAVY FOR. 
 
 When the meat is done, lay that end which is 
 least done in a clean hot dish before the fire, 
 then pour all the fat out of your dripping-pan 
 through a hair sieve into a stone jar, and 
 put it away; then wipe out of the pan any dust 
 or cinders that may be In it with a clean dish- 
 cloth, and for a joint of about ten pounds pour 
 a smaU-sized cupful of boiling stock made from 
 trimmings into the dripping-pan, and with this 
 stock and your basting-ladle rub all the baked 
 brown gfravy off the pan — ^for nearly all the real 
 gravy which drops from the meat will be baked 
 to the dripping-pan. When you have rubbed 
 and washed all the brown o£E the pan, mix it 
 well together, and strain it through a fine hair 
 sieve into a butter saucepan, simmer it gently 
 over the fire till it is quite hot but not to boil, 
 pour it over the meat, and serve it up. You 
 
 will find it a good nice brown gravy, better than 
 is frequently made with half a pound of gravy- 
 beef. 
 
 ROAST MEAT, GRAVY FOR (another way). 
 {See Gbavt fob Roast Meat.) 
 
 ROAST MEAT, WHOLESOMENESS OF. 
 
 Roasting is an excellent method of rendering 
 food wholesome and nourishing, as without mak- 
 ing any great change in the chemical properties 
 of meat, it renders it more tender, sapid, and 
 highly flavoured, whilst there is not so much dis- 
 sipation of its nutritive juices as in baking, boil- 
 ing, and some other processes. 
 
 " Roasting," says Dr. Kitchener, " preserves 
 the nutritive part of flesh from dissipation in a 
 greater degree than boiling; and it has been 
 remarked by an observant author (Dr. Willich) 
 that ' one pound of roast meat is, in real nourish- 
 ment, equal to tfvo or three pounds of boiled 
 meat.' It ought, however, to be noticed that 
 the fat of meat treated in this way has under- 
 gone some degree of chemical decojnpositiou 
 from its exposure to heat, and is in consequence 
 more oppressive to delicate stomachs, and gener- 
 ally less salutary than boiled meat." 
 
 By the process of roasting the fibrine is cor- 
 rugated, the albumen coagulated, the fat lique- 
 fied. As the operation proceeds, the surface 
 becomes first brown and then scorched ; and the 
 tendinous parts are rendered softer and gluey. 
 Care should always be taken that the meat 
 should not be overdone, nor ought it to be 
 under-cooked; for although in such a state it 
 may contain more nutriment, yet it will be less 
 digestible, on account of the density of its tex- 
 ture. This fact has been satisfactorily proved 
 by the experiments of Spallanzani; and Mr. 
 Hunter observes, that "boiled and roasted and 
 even putrid meat is easier of digestion than 
 raw." Animal matter loses more by roasting 
 than by boiling: by the latter process mutton 
 loses one-fifth and beef one-fourth; but by 
 roasting, these meats lose about one-third of 
 their weight. In roasting the loss arises from 
 the melting out of the fat, and the evaporating 
 of the water ; but the nutritious matter remains 
 condensed in the cooked solid, whereas in boil- 
 ing the gelatine is partly abstracted. Boast are, 
 therefore,, more nutritious than boiled meats. 
 {See Pbinciples of Cookeet, xliv. et seq.) 
 
 ROBERT SAUCE. 
 
 No. 1. — Dissolve a piece of butter the size of 
 a walnut in a saucepan, and fry in it two moder- 
 ate-sized onions finely chopped. When they are 
 lightly coloured, pour over them a wine-glassful 
 of vinegar, and simmer for four minutes. Add 
 an ounce of brown thickening, or, failing this, 
 stir in a table-spoonful of flour, half a pint of 
 broth or water, a tea-spoonful of Bovril, a quar- 
 ter of a tea-spoonful of pepper, and the same 
 of salt. Stir the sauce over the .fire for twenty 
 minutes, then add a table-spoonful of French 
 mustard, a tea-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, 
 and a tea-spoonful of anchovy essence. Mix all 
 well together over the fire, and serve. If French 
 mustard cannot be had, English mustard must 
 be used, but it will not answer the purpose 
 nearly so well. A spoonful of port is sometimes 
 added. No. 2.-^The following is a more simple 
 recipe than the above. Slice two onions, and fry 
 
ROB 
 
 718 
 
 ROC 
 
 them in butter till they begin to turn yellow. 
 Pour over them as much brown gravy as will 
 cover them, add a table-spoonful of mustard, 
 a tea-spoonful of salt, a quarter of a tea-spoon- 
 ful of pepper, and simmer very gently, adding 
 more gravy if necessary till tfie onions are 
 tender. Rub them through a fine sieve, mix 
 with the pulp some more gravy, say a quarter of 
 a pint, boil once more, and serve. Time to pre- 
 pare, half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Suf- 
 ficient for half a dozen persons. 
 ROBERT SAUCE (M. Ude's way). 
 
 Cut some onions into small dice, fry them of 
 a fine brown, moisten them with some Espagnole 
 (Spanish Sauce), or dust them with flour, and 
 moisten with veal gravy. Skim it, that the 
 sauce may look bright; put in a little pepper 
 and salt, and just before you send up mix a 
 spoonful of mustard. 
 
 ROCAMBOLE. 
 
 This plant, which is employed much in the 
 same way as garlic and shallots, is a native of 
 Denmark. It has compound bulbs like garlic, 
 but the cloves are smaller. " The cloves," says 
 Loudon, " both of the stalk and roots, are used 
 in the manner of garlic or shallot, and nearly for 
 the same purposes. It is considered milder than 
 garlic." 
 ROCHELLE SALAD. 
 
 Wash two fine heads of celery, and dry them 
 perfectly. Cut the best stalks into pieces an 
 inch long, and lay these in a salad-bowl, mixed 
 ■with the whites of three hard-boiled eggs, thinly 
 shredded. Press the yolks of the eggs through 
 a wire sieve, and the moment before serving pour 
 over the salad a quarter of a pint of tartar sauce. 
 Sprinkle over this first the powdered egg-yolks, 
 and afterwards three fine truffles, finely 
 shredded. Ornament the salad with anchovy, 
 beetroot, slices of German sausages, or in any 
 suitable manner, and serve. If liked, the 
 truffles may be omitted, and mayonnaise sauce 
 be substituted for the tartar sauce. 
 ROCK. 
 
 Under this name is sold a kind of sweetmeat 
 composed of sugar, sometimes mixed with al- 
 monds and various flavours. The sugar is first of 
 all boiled, then it is poured out on a cold marble 
 slab, and worked up into a rough mass. The 
 name "rock" is also given to another kind of 
 sweetmeat, in which the sugar whilst hot and 
 soft is repeatedly pulled over a smooth iron 
 hook, until it becomes white and porous. This 
 rock is flavoured in various ways. 
 
 ROCK BISCUITS. 
 
 Put the whites Df three eggs into a pan, 
 and stir them together with a whisk till they 
 break. Cut some blanched, but not dried, sweet 
 almonds into long thin slices, and put them, 
 with an ounce of candied orange-peel cut small, 
 and one ounce of finely-powdered loaf sugar, to 
 the eggs ; mix all well up together with a spoon, 
 adding more almonds and sugar to make the 
 preparation hang together if required. Put 
 ■white wafer-paper on your iron plates, and lay 
 the mixture on it in biscuits about the size of a 
 half-crown piece, but piled about an inch to an 
 inch and a half high. Bake them, in a slack 
 oven, of a nice light colour. 
 
 ROCK BISCUITS, RED. 
 
 Mix up sliced almonds, whites of eggs, and 
 sugar as directed in the recipe, EocK Biscuits, 
 and colour with a little cochineal. Make the 
 preparation into biscuits as already directed, and 
 bake in a very slack oven. The orange-peel may 
 be omitted. 
 
 ROCK CAKES. 
 
 No. 1. — Whisk three ■whole eggs till light. 
 Mix with them half a pound of powdered sugar, 
 a quarter of a pound of flour, and a table-spoon- 
 ful of currants. Beat all thoroughly together, 
 drop the dough in lumps upon a buttered tin, 
 and with a fork make them look as rough as 
 possible. Bake the cakes in a modeirate oven, 
 and when they are done enough store them in 
 a tin canister till wanted for use. No. 2. — Beat 
 four ounces of butter to cream. Add four 
 ounces of sugar, two well-whisked eggs, a pound 
 of flour, and a handful of currants, picked and 
 dried. Beat the mixture thoroughly, and bake 
 in small cakes as above. No. 3 (very plain).— 
 Hub a little butter or dripping into a pound ol 
 flour. Add a pinch of salt, a tea^spoonful of 
 baking-powder, a dessert-spoonful of sugar, two 
 or three grates of nutmeg, and a handful of 
 picked and dried currants. Mix the dry ingre- 
 dients thoroughly, add milk or water to make a 
 light dough, and bake immediately in a well- 
 heated oven. No. 4. — Rub a quarter of a pound 
 of butter into half a pound of flour, and add 
 four ounces of moist sugar, a few currants, and 
 a tea-spoonful of baking-powder. Mix to a stiff 
 paste with an egg and a little milk. Bake as 
 before. 
 ROCK CAKES, ALMOND OR COCOA-NUT. 
 
 Blanch three-quarters of a pound of sweet 
 and three or four bitter almonds, and cut them 
 in pieces the size of a pea. Whisk the whites 
 of three eggs to a firm froth. Stir in three- 
 quarters of "a poiind of white and sifted sugar, 
 a tea-spoonful at a time, and add quite as 
 gradually the blanched almonds. Lay a piece 
 of buttered paper on a flat tin, and with a fork 
 drop the mixture in little knobs upon it. Bake 
 in a moderate oven. Half a pound of grated 
 cocoa-nut may be substituted for the almonds. 
 Time, twenty to thirty minu^tes. Probable coat. 
 Is. 4d. per pound. 
 
 ROCK CREAM. 
 
 Take a tea-cupful of good rice and boil it 
 till soft in sweet milk, sweeten with powdered 
 loaf sugar, and pile it up high on a dish. Lay 
 on the rice, here and there, square pieces of 
 currant jelly, or any kind of preserved fruit. 
 Beat up very stiff the whites of four or five 
 eggs, and a little powdered sugar flavoured 
 with orange - flower water or vanilla ; add a 
 tea-spoonful of cream, and drop the prepara- 
 tion over the rice, giving it the look of ^^ rock 
 covered with snow. 
 
 ROCK, DUBLIN. 
 
 Take half a pound of sweet almonds. Pick out 
 eight of them, blanch them, cut them into strips 
 and then throw them into rose- or orange-water 
 till wanted. Put the rest of the almonds into 
 a mortar with six bitter ones, and pound them 
 to a paste with a dessert-spoonful of brandy. 
 Add gradually two ounces of powdered sugair 
 
-ROC 
 
 719 
 
 ROE 
 
 and four ounces of sweet butter. Pound the 
 mixture till it looks very white, and set it in 
 a cold place to stiffen. Dip two spoons into 
 cold water, and with these form the paste into 
 pieces the size and shape of an egg. Pile 
 these in a glass dish in a rock-like form, and 
 ornament with strips of angelica, the almonds 
 which were put aside, and a little myrtle. 
 Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for a small 
 dish. 
 
 ROCKLING. 
 
 A genus of fish of the cod and haddock 
 family. On the British coast several species 
 are found, the largest being never above nine- 
 teen or twenty inches long, the smallest — ^the 
 mackerel Midge — being only about an inch and 
 a quarter. Fishermen do not hold any of the 
 species in great esteem, partly, no doubt, on 
 account of decomposition setting in very soon 
 after they are taken out of the water. When 
 fresh, however, they are well suited for the 
 table. 
 
 ROCK OR CANDY. 
 
 Put a pound of loaf sugar into a saucepan 
 with a tea-cupful of water, and stir it until it 
 is dissolved, add a spoonful of vinegar to clear 
 it, and carefully remove the scum. Have ready 
 a shallow tin rubbed over with butter. When 
 the sugar is boiled sufficiently, stir into it 
 sliced almonds, chopped cocoa-nut, or Brazil 
 nuts shelled and cut in slices, and pour it into 
 the tin to the thickness of half or a quarter of 
 an inch. If preferred, the nuts, etc., may be 
 left out, and the rock may be simply marked 
 across with a knife when it is almost cold. In 
 order to ascertain when the sugar is done 
 enough, dip a spoon into it, and raise it. If 
 the threads thus formed snap like glass, it is 
 ready. 
 
 ROCKS, ALMOND. 
 
 Take one pound of sweet almonds, two 
 pounds of loaf sugar, and a pound and a half 
 of sweet almonds cut into slices. Beat the al- 
 monds that are not sliced and the sugar to- 
 gether in a mortar, and pass it all through a 
 flour-sieve. Put the whites of seven or eight 
 eggs into a middling-sized pan, and whisk 
 them up to a very strong froth. Stir in suf- 
 ficient of your almonds and sugar to make it 
 into a moderate stiff paste, adding also your 
 sliced almonds; form it into small heaps the 
 required size with your fingers — mind you do 
 not press the heaps together too tight, but let 
 them be rather loose, especially on the top. 
 Cover some tins with wafer-paper,' and lay 
 them on it, about an inch and a half apart. 
 Bake in a cool oven, and leave the oven door 
 open the greater part of the time they are 
 baking; when they are of a nice pale brown 
 they are done. If managed properly, almond 
 rocks have a pretty appearance. 
 
 ROCKS FOR CHEESE (frequently called Pulled 
 Bread). 
 Take a half-baked loaf or one that is per- 
 fectly new; tear off the crust, and with two 
 forks pull the crumb into pieces the size of a 
 Brazil nut. Lay these on a tin, put them in a 
 brisk bven, and bake till they are crisp and 
 brown. Serve with the cheese course. 
 
 ROCK, SNOWY. 
 
 Take a pound of loaf sugar, clarify it, and 
 boil it till it reaches the degree of crackled; 
 then add a table-spoonful of vinegar. A few 
 drops of either the essence of lemon or the oil 
 of peppermint may also be mixed in. When 
 the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated, 
 pour the mixture out on a slightly-oiled marble 
 slab; whilst cooling it may be twisted, rolled, 
 moulded, or made up into any shape at 
 pleasure. 
 
 ROCK SUGAR, COLOURED. 
 
 Take a pint of clarified sugar and boil it in 
 a copper or earthenware pan over a clear fire till 
 it reaches the degree of crackled. Remove it 
 from the fire, and mix well into it a table- 
 spoonful of icing, stirring briskly all the time 
 with your skimmer. If no icing is at hand, 
 mix some sifted loaf sugar with the white of 
 an egg till it is quite thick, put in a table- 
 spoonful, and that will answer as well. If the 
 rock is wanted coloured, mix with the icing 
 any of the colouring used for confectionery 
 before you put it to the sugar. When the 
 sugar and icing are well mixed, put the mixture 
 into a papered sieve to cool, and when quite 
 cold break into pieces. 
 
 RODON CAKE. 
 
 Lay two pounds of fine flour on a sheet of 
 paper before the fire, and move it about occa- 
 sionally until it is quite dry and warm. Mix 
 a small tea-cupful of fresh yeast, or two ounces 
 of German yeast with half a pint of lukewarm 
 ijiilk, stir this into a quarter of a pound of 
 the flour, and set it to rise. When it is 
 well risen put the remainder of the flour 
 into a separate bowl, and mix with it a 
 pinch of salt, six ounces of sifted sugar, the 
 grated rind of a . lemon, and an ounce of 
 pounded bitter almoaads ; when these are 
 thoroughly mixed, add twelve well-beaten 
 eggs, and as much lukewarm milk as will form 
 a thin dough. This will be about half a pint. 
 Dissolve a pound of butter, and stir it in also, 
 then add the sponge dough. Beat all briskly 
 together for twenty minutes, then add four 
 ounces of picked and dried currants, eight 
 ounces of stoned raisins, and two ounces of 
 almonds cut small. Butter a plain mould 
 rather thickly, sprinkle chopped Amends over 
 it, and shake o£ all that will not adhere. Half 
 fill the mould with the dough, set it in a warm 
 place to rise, and then bake in a moderate oven. 
 If liked, half the quantity may be used, and 
 then nine eggs will be required. Time to bake, 
 an hour and a half. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. 
 ROEBUCK. 
 
 The roebuck or common roe is of a reddish 
 brown colour, and though small is elegant in 
 shape, and nimble. Plainly dressed it is not 
 worth much, but when marinaded, larded or 
 jugged, it is very good. The roebuck, in its 
 wild state, has been long extinct in England, 
 but is still found in the Highlands of Scotland. 
 It is also found generally throughout Conti- 
 nental Europe and some parts of Asia. 
 
 ROEBUCK, BRAISED. 
 
 Saw the shank and spine bones from a 
 haunch of roebuck, pare away the skin from the 
 
ROE 
 
 720 
 
 ROE 
 
 upper part of the leg and the loin, and lard 
 these bare portions closely and evenly with 
 strips of bacon about six inches long and a 
 quarter of an inch thick. These lardoons may 
 be seasoned with pepper, salt, and powdered 
 herbs. Place the haunch in a braisiug-pan, 
 pour over it as much stock as will cover it, and 
 add two carrots, three onions, two turnips, four 
 or five outer sticks of celery, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, a blade of mace, two or three cloves, and 
 half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns. Set the 
 braisierc over a gentle fire, let its contents sim- 
 mer very softly, and baste frequently till the 
 meat is done enough. Drain it, and put it in 
 the oven for a short time. Strain the liquor, 
 and boil it down till thick. Baste the haunch 
 with this until it has a bright glazed appear- 
 ance, and serve as hot as possible. Garnish 
 the dish with glazed carrots and onions. Time, 
 three to four hours. Probable cost. Is. 4d. to 
 28. per pound. Sufficient for eight or ten 
 persons. 
 
 ROEBUCK, CUTLETS OF. 
 
 Divide a neck of roebuck into cutlets, trim 
 them neatly, flatten Vi-ith a cutlet-bat, and 
 season with pepper and salt. Dip the cutlets 
 first into clarified butter, and afterwards into 
 bread-crumbs. Butter the bars of the gridiron, 
 and broil the cutlets over a gentle fire, turning 
 them frequently to preserve the gravy. Serve 
 with a little piquant sauce poured round them. 
 Time to broil the cutlets, ten to twelve minutes. 
 
 ROEBUCK, HARICOT OF. 
 
 A shoulder or neck of roebuck may be 
 cooked thus. If the neck is chosen, divide it 
 into thick cutlets; or if the shoulder, cut the 
 meat ofE in pieces not larger than an egg. Fry 
 these in butter till browned, take up the meat, 
 mix with the fat as much flour as will make a 
 stiff paste, beat it with the back of a wooden 
 spoon till it is smoothly and lightly coloured, 
 and then moisten it gradually with as much 
 stock as will cover the roebuck. Add pepper 
 and salt, together with three or four carrots, 
 two turnips, and four onions, cut into neat 
 shapes not larger than a small walnut. Let 
 the liquor boil, then draw the saucepan to 
 the side of the fire, and let its contents simmer 
 very gently until done enough. Be very care- 
 ful to remove the scum and fat as it rises. 
 Strain the sauce into a small stewpan, and boil 
 it down until it is sufiiciently thick to coat the 
 spoon. Put with it two table-spoonfuls of red- 
 currant jelly and a glass of port. Trim the 
 pieces of meat, and heat them in it, add the 
 vegetables, and serve all on one dish very hot. 
 Time, about two hours. Probable cost, roe- 
 buck. Is. 4d. to 28. per pound. Sufficient for 
 six or eight persons. 
 
 ROEBUCK, HAUNCH OF, MARINADED. 
 
 Prepare a marinade sufficiently deep to cover 
 the surface of the haunch, the ingredients 
 being in the following proportions. With a 
 pint of vinegar put a quart of water, two 
 onions finely minced, four cloves, a blade of 
 mace, half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, a, 
 little salt, a sliced carrot, three or four sticks 
 of celery, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Boil 
 all together for half an hour, strain, and put 
 into a pan large enough to hold the roebuck. 
 
 Saw the shank and spine bones from the 
 haunch, pare away the skin from the upper 
 part of the leg and along the loin, and lard 
 these bare places closely and evenly with thin 
 strips of bacon. Put the haunch in the mar- 
 inade for a week. Take it up, spit, and roast 
 before a clear fire, being careful to baste con- 
 stantly. Unless this is done the meat will be 
 very dry. Take it up, brush it over with melted 
 glaze, and serve very hot. The dish should 
 be garnished with stewed prunes and fried 
 potatoes, and a sauce, prepared as follows, 
 should accompany it, a little poured over the 
 haunch, and the rest in a tureen. Cut an ounce 
 of lean ham into dice, and fry them in a little 
 butter with a small carrot, a stick of celery, and 
 an onion, all cut small, half a tea-spoonful of 
 peppercorns, a quarter of a blade of mace, and 
 a pinch of powdered thyme. Stir these ingre- 
 dients over the fire until they are lightly 
 browned, then add two table-spoonfuls of vine- 
 gar and one of ketchup. Let the liquor boil, 
 and put with it half a pint of brown sauce, a 
 tea-spoonful of Bovril, a wine-glassful of sherry, 
 and a tea-spoonful of anchovy. Let the sauce 
 boil carefully, skim off the fat, etc., strain it, 
 and it will be ready for use. Time to roast the 
 haunch, about an hour and a half. Probable 
 cost. Is. 4d. to 2s. a pound. Sufficient for eight 
 or ten persons. 
 
 ROEBUCK, JUGGED. 
 
 Cut a breast of roebuck into small chops, 
 fry these with three or four slices of good bacon 
 in buttfer till they are lightly browned, then 
 pour off the liquor, and mix flour with it to 
 make a roux (see Eoux). Moisten this with as 
 much good stock as will cover the pieces of roe- 
 buck, and add four or five onions with half a 
 dozen cloves stuck in them, three or four inches 
 of thin lemon-rind, a bunch of sweet herbs, and 
 a little pepper and salt; a few mushrooms may 
 be added if liked. Put all into a stewpan, 
 cover closely that no steam may escape, and 
 when the liquor has boiled, draw the pan to 
 the side, and let its contents simmer gently 
 until done enough. Put the meat on a dish, 
 arrange the vegetables round it, pour the sauce 
 over, and serve very hot. Time to simmer the 
 meat, about two hours. Probable cost. Is. 4d. 
 to 23. per pound. 
 
 ROEBUCK, MINCED. 
 
 Take the remains of a dressed leg of roebuck. 
 Bemove all fat, skin, and gristle ; mince the 
 meat finely, and mix it with the remains of the 
 poivrade sauce (see Roebuck, Haunch or, 
 Mabinadbd). If there is none left, make a 
 little; a pint will be sufficient for a pound of 
 mince. Heat all gently together without 
 allowing the sauce to boil, and serve garnished 
 with poached eggs. Time to warm the mince, 
 a few minutes. 
 
 ROEBUCK, ROAST. 
 
 Take a leg of roebuck, saw away the shank- 
 bones, and pare off about four inches of the 
 top skin. Lard the bare place closely and 
 evenly with thin strips of fat bacon. Wrap the 
 leg in buttered paper, leaving both ends open, 
 put it down before a clear fire, and roast it till 
 done enough. About ten minutes before it is 
 taken down, remove the paper and sprinlde a 
 
ROE 
 
 721 
 
 ROE 
 
 little salt over the joint. Serve with a paper 
 frill round the knuckle, and send poivrade 
 sauce to table in a tureen. The directions for 
 making this sauce are given with Roebuck, 
 Hatjnch op. Marinaded. Time to roast a leg 
 weighing five pounds, fifty minutes. Sufficient 
 for six or eight persons. 
 
 ROE SAUCE. 
 
 Boil or fry the roes of any fish — both hard 
 and soft roes may be used — sieve them, and add 
 a good seasoning of salt and pepper, a little 
 mixed mustard, and French vinegar. Stir two 
 table-spoonfuls of the mixture thus prepared 
 into a pint of plain white sauce or melted but- 
 ter, and serve with the fish from which the roes 
 were taken. A few drops of essence of an- 
 chovies will be found useful to heighten the 
 flavour. 
 
 ROE SAVOURY. 
 
 Take the soft roes from four bloaters; cook 
 in the oven ; then pound them in a mortar with 
 two ounces of butter, a little cayenne, and 
 three peppercorns. Spread , the mixture on 
 rounds of hot toast, lay a fried egg on top of 
 each, sprinkle a little minced parsley over, and 
 serve. Probable cost, 7d. 
 
 ROES, CARP. 
 
 Put the roes in a saucepan, with a little salt, 
 cover them with vinegar and water in equal 
 parts, simmer for a few minutes, then cut them 
 up small. Mix with half their bulk of bread- 
 crumbs, season with cayenne, grated lemon- 
 rind, mixed herbs and salt, bind with beaten 
 egg, and form into small cakes. Pour a little 
 oiled butter over, and bake brown in a quick 
 oven, or cook before the fir© in a Dutch oven. 
 
 ROES, HERRING, IN CASES (M. Ude's way). 
 
 Have a paper case, either round or square — 
 its size must be suited to the dish you are going 
 to use — spread some butter over the bottom. 
 Broil eight very fresh soft-roed herring's, and 
 when well done take out the roes, and put them, 
 without breaking, into the case. Sprinkle over 
 them d, little pepper, salt, rasped bread, and 
 finely-chopped parsley; put a few small bits 
 of butter over them in different places, and 
 bake them in a hot oven. When they are done, 
 put a little maitre d'hotel sauce into the case, 
 with the juice of a lemon. Send up quite hot, 
 and very firm. This dish can never be properly 
 prepared if you wash the herrings: scale them 
 very well, and wipe them first with a damp 
 cloth, and afterwards with a dry one, then broil 
 them sharply, so as to keep the soft roe very 
 firm. The case should be made of strong 
 foolscap paper. 
 
 ROES, HERRING, ON TOAST. 
 
 Take the soft roes of six herrings, wash them 
 well in cold salted water without breaking 
 them. Put them into a deep dish. Put into a 
 ■small saucepan half a pint of boiling water 
 and a wineglassful of French vinegar; add a 
 pinch of salt, six peppercorns, and three bay- 
 leaves. As soon as it boils, skim it, and strain 
 it over the roes. Cover the dish with a but- 
 tered paper, and put in the oven. Cook for ten 
 minutes, then drain the roes, and put them on 
 hot buttered toast, one roe on each piece of 
 toast. Squeeze a few drops of lemon-juice over 
 2u 
 
 each, and sprinkle a little chopped parsley and 
 cayenne pepper over them. Probable cost, lOd. 
 
 ROES, MACKEREL, IN CASES. 
 
 Take six very fresh soft-roed mackerel. Broil 
 them till well done, then take out the roes 
 and put them into small cases with pars- 
 ley chopped fine, a little rasped crust of bread, 
 salt, pepper, and a little butter ; then put them 
 into the oven; when they are very hot, send 
 them to table with a little white sharp sauce, 
 and the juice of a lemon. This will only make 
 a small dish : when you want to make it larger, 
 put more soft roes, and use the mackerel for 
 fillets as a fish-dish. 
 
 ROES, MACKEREL, TIMBALE OF (k fa Sefton). 
 
 Take the soft roes of four large mackerel. 
 Do not wash the fish, for the roes would then 
 turn black and soft. Put the roes in melted 
 butter, without any salt; let the butter cover 
 them, and either bake them in the oven, or let 
 them stew on a stove. Take care not to break 
 them. When they are done, lay them on a 
 sheet of white paper to drain; dust a little salt 
 over them, and cut them into small dice as 
 neatly as possible. Put these into small pates, 
 which keep hot, and make the following sauce, 
 which is to be put afterwards into the pates. 
 Take two spoonfuls of bechamel, add a small 
 bit of butter with pepper and salt. Refine this 
 sauce with some thick cream. Keep it hot, fill 
 the pates in which the soft roes are, but mind 
 that it is liquid enough to penetrate the rocs. 
 Above all, send up quite hot. 
 
 ROES OF FISH, FOR GARNISHING. 
 
 ' Take the roes of fresh salmon, cod, or other 
 large fish, wash them well to clear them from 
 fibre, and set them on a tin plate in a cool oven 
 until quite dry. Beat them with a fork to 
 separate the seeds, put these into a bottle, and 
 store in a cool dry place. They will keep good 
 for some time. A spoonful sprinkled lightly 
 over white fish will improve its appearance. 
 
 ROES, SALTED (a substitute for Caviare). 
 
 The roes for this purpose should be taken 
 from fish about to spawn. Wash the roes first 
 in milk and water, and afterwards in cold 
 water, and clear them perfectly from fibre. 
 Drain them thoroughly, and sprinkle a quarter 
 of a pound of salt upon each pound and a half 
 of spawn. Let them lie in the brine for two 
 days, turning them over occasionally. Lay 
 them on a board placed in front of the fire, and 
 distant about a yard from it, and let them re- 
 main for ten or twelve hours till they are quite 
 dry. Crush them well with a weight, and press 
 them into a perfectly dry jar. Put on each 
 pound and a half of spawn twelve drops" of 
 spirit of nitre and as much pounded saltpetre 
 as can be piled on a sixpence. Cover the jar 
 with writing-paper upon which has been spread 
 a thick coating of cold lard, tie a piece of wash- 
 leather over this, and store the preparation in 
 a warm place. It is used as a relish, and should 
 be served spread thinly on bread and butter cr 
 toast. 
 ROES, SMOKED. 
 
 These are usually cut into thin slices and 
 eaten on bread and butter as a cold relish, 
 without further cooking than they have received 
 
ROL 
 
 722 
 
 ROl. 
 
 when bought. They may also be soaked for 
 a few hours in cold water, or very lightly boiled, 
 and then fried in butter or oil. 
 
 ROLLA CHEESE (a breakfast or supper dish). 
 
 Divide about two pounds of prepared tripe 
 into pieces three inches square, the rough side 
 inwards. Lay on each one of these a narrow 
 strip of the skirt of beef; cut fat and lean to- 
 gether, and do not entirely cover the tripe with 
 the beef. Season with pepper and salt, and roll 
 the tripe up with the meat in it. Tie the rolls 
 with twine, and sew the edges together. When 
 the rolls are all made, drop them into a sauce- 
 pan of boiling water, and let them boil softly 
 until a straw will easily penetrate them. Take 
 them up, drain them, lay them side by side in 
 a dish, put a board with a weight upon them 
 to press them, and let them remain until cold. 
 Keep .them in a pickle of vinegar and water, 
 and before serving cut them into thin slices. 
 
 ROLLED BEEF. 
 
 To make a pickle, pound the following in- 
 gredients to powder. Six pounds of common 
 salt, two ounces of saltpetre, eight ounces of 
 moist sugar, a table-spoonful of chopped herbs 
 — consisting of thyme, basil, marjoram, savory, 
 and bay-leaves — a table-spoonful of chopped 
 parsley, half an ounce of cloves, half an ounce 
 of mace, half an cunce of peppercorns, and a 
 clove of garlic. The latter may be omitted. 
 Take a square piece of the thin end of the flank 
 of beef, weighing from eight to twelve pounds. 
 Bone and skin it, rub it well in every part with 
 the powder, and turn and rub it every day for 
 three days. Wash and wipe it dry, and spread 
 upon the inside a layer of good veal forcemeat. 
 Roll the beef up firmly and evenly, bind it 
 tightly, tie it in a cloth, and put it into a 
 saucepan with as much boiling water as will 
 cover it, adding also a carrot, an onion stuck 
 with two cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, a 
 blade of mace, and a few sticks of celery. Let 
 the liquor boil for one minute, skim it, draw 
 the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let its 
 contents simmer gently till the beef is done 
 enough. Let it remain in the liquor until it is 
 partially cooled, take it up without untying 
 the string, put it between two dishes, place a 
 weight upon it, and let it stand till cold. Be- 
 fore serving, brush it over with two coats of 
 liquid glaze, and garnish with parsley. If it is 
 wished that the beef should be served warm, 
 take it when it has been pressed and is almost 
 cold, and warm it again in a little of the liquor 
 in which it was boiled. Skim this carefully, 
 boil it up with a spoonful of brown thickening, 
 stir into it a glass of sherry and any seasoning 
 that may be required, and pour it round the 
 beef. Garnish the dish with glazed carrots. 
 Instead of rubbing the beef with the savoury- 
 powder, it may, if preferred, be prepared for 
 boiling as follows. Bone and skin the beef, 
 and rub into it every day for a week salt mixed 
 with a fourth of its weight in sugar. Wash 
 and dry the meat, lay it on the table, and strew 
 over the inside a savoury-powder made by mix- 
 ing together a dozen pounded cloves, half a nut- 
 meg, grated, a quarter of an ounce of mace, a 
 pinch of cayenne, two large table-spoonfuls of 
 finely-chopped parsley, and a table-spoonful of 
 
 chopped herbs, consisting of thyme, marjoram, 
 bay-leaves, and basil. KoU the meat in the 
 form of a bolster, bind it tightly, and tie it 
 in a cloth as before. The easiest way of glazing 
 the beef when it is to be served cold, is to 
 procure a quarter of a pound of glaze from the 
 grocer's, dissolve it by putting it, in a jar, into 
 boiling water, and when it is melted brush it 
 over the meat. Time to simmer the beef after 
 it has once boiled, half an hour per pound. 
 Sufficient for a handsome and excellent dish. 
 Probable cost, flank of beef, 9d. per pound. 
 
 ROLLED VEAL (for breakfast, supper, or luncheon). 
 Bone a breast of veal, lay it flat on the table, 
 and spread over the inside a layer of good veal 
 forcemeat, the third of an inch in thickness. 
 Add in alternate rows a table-spoonful of green 
 pickles, and three hard-boiled eggs cut into 
 quarters lengthwise, and lay over all some 
 slices of lean uncooked ham. Roll the veal 
 tightly, and bind securely with tape. Put it 
 into a saucepan of stock, lei it boil, then draw 
 it to the side, and simmer as gently as possible 
 till tender. Take the veal up, put it on a dish, 
 lay a board with a weight upon it, and let it 
 remain until cold. Take off the tape, fasten 
 the veal with a silver skewer, trim it neatly, 
 and brush over with glaze. Garnish the dish 
 with parsley, green pickles, clear jelly cut into 
 dice, etc. Time to simmer the veal, about three 
 hours. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Suf- 
 ficient for twelve persons. 
 
 ROLL, FORCED. 
 
 Take a rasped French roll, cut a lid off one 
 end, and scoop out the crumb. Make a ragoftt 
 or hash of pigeon, veal, beef, or sweetbreads, 
 or anything else at hand; fill the roll with it 
 while warm; put on the top; fasten it with a 
 little white of egg; dip the roll in milk, and 
 fry in plenty of hot lard or butter. 
 
 ROLLS. 
 
 (See Bbeakpast Cakes ob Bolls.) 
 
 ROLLS, BAKER'S. 
 
 No. 1. — Put three pounds of fine flour into a 
 large bowl, scoop a hole in the centre not quite 
 to the bottom, and put into this a tea-spoonful 
 of baking-powder dissolved in half a tea-cupful 
 of hot water, a tea-spoonful of salt, and a table- 
 spoonful of fresh yeast. Add a little hot milk, 
 and knead the whole to a smooth shining dough. 
 Throw a cloth over it, and put it into a warm 
 place for two hours. When it is lightly risen, 
 knead it again thoroughly with the fists, let it 
 rise once" more, and divide it into pieces the 
 size of a, large turkey's egg. Roll these between 
 the hands to the length of a finger, put them 
 on floured baking-tins, leaving a little distance 
 between them, and brush the tops lightly over 
 with milk. When the tops are brightly browned, 
 break open one of the rolls, and if it is done 
 enough take the rest out of the oven. Serve 
 hot. Time to bake, fifteen to twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost, ^d. each. No. 2. — ^Mix a tea- 
 spoonful of salt with two pounds of fiour in a 
 bowl. Rub into this a piece of butter the size 
 of an egg, and make a hole in the centre of 
 the flour, not quite to the bottom of the bowL 
 Pour into this a tea-spoonful of fresh light 
 yeast, with thre'S-quarters of a pint of warm 
 
ROL 
 
 723 
 
 ROL 
 
 milk and an egg, add as much more milk as will 
 make a thin batter, sprinkle a, little flour over 
 it, and leave it in a warm place to rise. In about 
 three hours knead it thoroughly with the fists, 
 and divide the dough into rolls. Lay these 
 on a floured baking - tin, let them rise again 
 for ten or fifteen minutes, brush over with 
 milk, and bake in a well-heated oven. Time 
 to bake, about a quarter of an hour. Probable 
 cost. Id. each. No. 3. — Stir a slice of fresh 
 butter into half a pint of new milk until it is 
 dissolved. Add half an ounce of sweet German 
 yeast dissolved in a. little warm water, and stir 
 the whole into two pounds of flour which has 
 been mixed with half a tea-spoonful of salt. 
 Knead the dough thoroughly with the fists till 
 it is smooth and shining, cover with a cloth, 
 and set it on a warm hearth to rise. Divide it 
 into rolls, lay these on a floured baking-tin, let 
 them rise before the fire for half an hour, and 
 bake in a moderate oven. When rolls are 
 wanted fresh for breakfast, this dough may 
 be kneaded overnight, and left on the hearth 
 till morning. Time to bake, fifteen to twenty 
 minutes. No. 4. — Put a pint of hot milk into 
 a bowl, and stir into it until dissolved two 
 ounces of butter and two ounces of lard. Add 
 a, beaten egg, and let the miUc cool, then stir 
 the whole into a pound of flour. Knead it well, 
 a,nd put it into a warm place to rise. When 
 light, add another half-pound of flour, and let 
 the dough rise again. lloU it out, stamp it into 
 cakes, lay these in buttered pans, cover them, 
 and let them rise. When light, prick them, 
 and bake in a quick oven. Kme to bake, 
 fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, IJd. 
 each. 
 
 ROLLS, BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery). 
 
 If cold boiled beef is objected to, it may be 
 warmed up as follows. Cut the meat into thin 
 slices of uniform size and shape. Sprinkle over 
 each slice a little pepper and salt, with a pinch 
 of chopped parsley, and a mushroom or an an- 
 chovy chopped small. Lay over the seasoning 
 a slice of bacon of the same size as the beef, 
 roll the meat up, and tie it round with thin 
 twine. Fry the rolls in plenty of hot fat, and 
 when they are nicely brqwned all over, drain, 
 and serve with brown gravy poured over them. 
 Time, fry till brown. 
 
 ROLLS, BRENTFORD. 
 
 With two pounds of flour mix two ounces of 
 sifted sugar, four ounces of butter, two eggs 
 beaten with a table-spoonful of yeast, a pint of 
 milk, and salt to taste. Make into a dough, 
 and knead it well ; set it to rise before the fire. 
 Make twelve rolls of this, lay them on buttered 
 tin plates, and set them before the fire to rise 
 till they become of a proper size, then bake half 
 an hour. 
 
 ROLLS, CREAM OF TARTAR. 
 
 Mix a tea-spooBiful of cream of tartar and 
 half a tea-spoonful of soda with a pint of fine 
 flour. Add as much milk only as will make the 
 dough firm enough to be rolled out, and handle 
 it as lightly as possible. Eoll it out on a 
 well-floured board, attd stamp it in rounds an 
 inch thick. Bake in a quick oven. Time to 
 bake, ten to fifteen minutes. 
 
 ROLLS, FLOUR AND POTATO. 
 
 Roll and dry one pound of potatoes, mix them 
 with two ounces of sweet cream and lialf a pint 
 of milk, and rub them through a wire sieve into 
 a pound and a half of flour. Mix a gill of warm 
 milk with a little yeast, and add this to the 
 flour. Make into dough, let it rise before the 
 fire, form into rolls, and bake quickly. 
 
 ROLLS, FRENCH. 
 
 No. 1. — Dissolve a quarter of an ounce of , 
 German yeast in a quarter of a pint of warm 
 milk. Add a well-beaten egg, and stir the 
 whole into a pound of flour into which an ounce 
 of butter has been rubbed. Beat the mixture 
 till it is stiff and smooth, let it rise for an hour, 
 then — without kneading it— drop it in little 
 lumps upon buttered tins, and bake in a well- 
 heated oven. When nearly cold grate off the 
 outer crust. Time to bake, about a quarter 
 of an hour. No. 2.— Eub four ounces of fresh 
 butter into two pounds of flour until it is as 
 fine as oatmeal. Add half a tea-spoonful of 
 salt, two beaten eggs, two table-spoonfuls of 
 fresh yeast, and as much lukewarm milk as will 
 make a soft dough. Dredge a little flour over 
 this, cover the bowl with a cloth, and put it 
 on the hearth for the dough to rise. In about 
 two hours make it into rolls three inches long 
 and an inch thick. Lay these on a baking-tin, 
 and bake in a quick oven. Two or three 
 minutes before they are done enough, brush 
 them quickly over with milk. Time to bake, 
 about twenty minutes. No. 3. — Rub two ounces 
 and a half of butter into one pound of fine flour, 
 add a pinch of salt, the whites of three eggs 
 whisked to a firm froth, and as much lukewarm 
 milk as will make a soft dough. Cover the bowl, 
 and set it on the hearth or in a warm place. 
 When the dough has risen and is light, which 
 will be in about an hour, divide it into small 
 rolls, and bake these in a quick oven. Time to 
 bake, about a quarter of an hour. 
 
 ROLLS, FRENCH (another way). 
 
 Dr. Kitchener gives the following as the 
 bakers' method of making French rolls in his 
 day. Put a peck of flour into the kneading- 
 trough, and sift it through the brass wire sieve ; 
 then rub in three-quarters of a pound of butter, 
 and v;hen it is intimately blended with the 
 flour, mix up with it two quarts of warm milk, 
 a quarter of a pound of salt, and a pint of 
 yeast. Let thepe ingredients be mixed with the 
 flour and a sufficient quantity of warm water 
 to knead it into a dough; let it stand two 
 hours to prove, and then be moulded into rolls 
 or bricks, which should be placed on tins and 
 set for an hour in the prover. Place them in a 
 brisk oven for about twenty minutes, and, 
 when drawn, the rolls are to be rasped. 
 
 ROLLS, FRUIT. 
 
 Dissolve an ounce and a half of butter and 
 half a tea-spoonful of salt in a pint of boiling 
 milk, and half an ounce of yeast in a table- 
 spoonful of warm water. When the m.ilk is 
 nearly cold, mix with it an egg, add the yeast, 
 and three-quarters of a pound of flour. Cover 
 it, and put it in a warm place to rise. When 
 light, knead in half -a pound more of flour, and 
 let the dough rise again. Make the pastry into 
 
ROL 
 
 724 
 
 ROL 
 
 rings by rolling it out in pieces half an inch 
 thick and half an inch wide. Pinch the ends 
 together, lay the rings on buttered pans, let 
 them rise before the fire for a few minutes, 
 prick them again, and bake in a well-heated 
 oven. Time to bake, twelve to fifteen minutes. 
 These rolls are delicious served with stewed fruit 
 and cream. 
 
 ROLLS, GENEVA. 
 
 No. 1. — Eub two ounces of butter into a 
 pound of flour till it is as fine as oatmeal ; add 
 a pinch of salt, a dessert - spoonful of strong 
 yeast, and as much milk as will make a stifi 
 dough. This will be about half a pint. Let 
 it rise for an hour, then work in with it two 
 eggs which have been beaten up with as much 
 hot milk as will make them new-milk-warm; 
 knead the dough till it is soft and light. Let 
 it rise half an hour longer, form it into small 
 rolls, and bake these in a quick oven. Time to 
 bake, about twenty minutes. No. 2. — Dissolve 
 two ounces of fresh butter and a tea-spoonful of 
 salt in a pint of hot milk, i^tir in a pound of 
 flour, and when the batter is lukewarm add a 
 quarter of a pint of fresh yeast. Put the 
 dough in a warm place, and let it rise till light. 
 This will be in three or four hours. \Vork in 
 half a pound of flour, and let the dough rise 
 again for an hour or two. Dissolve half a 
 tea-spoonful of soda in a table-spoonful of hot 
 water, knead this into the dough, and form it 
 into small rolls three inches long and one wide. 
 Put these side by side in buttered baking-pans, 
 let them rise before the fire- for five or six 
 minutes, prick them, and bake in a quick oven. 
 Time to bake, fifteen or twenty minutes. 
 
 ROLLS, GINGER. 
 
 Take two ounces of good powdered ginger 
 and a little salt, and mix these ingredients well 
 with two pounds of flour. Make the prepara- 
 tion into a firm but perfectly light dough with 
 G-erman or brewer's yeast, in the usual way. 
 Divide into six or eight small loaves, and bake 
 for about fifteen minutes. 
 
 ROLLS, HOT. 
 
 When hot rolls are sent in from the baker's 
 for breakfast, they should be put into the oven 
 as soon as they arrive, because it is seldom 
 well heated in the early morning, and rolls are 
 worth nothing when they are half cold. Two 
 minutes before they are to be served, take them 
 out, divide them into three lengthwise, and 
 put some thin slices of good butter between the 
 rolls; press them together, and return them 
 to the oven for one minute. Take tbem out, 
 spread the butter, divide the rolls into halves, 
 place them on a hot clean dish, and serve im- 
 mediately. Probable cost. Id. each. 
 
 ROLLS (made from risen dough). 
 
 No. 1. — ^Take a lump of the dough, divide it 
 into small balls the size of an orange,' put these 
 into patty-pans, and set them before the fire 
 for ten minutes to rise. Put them into the 
 oven, and bake them till done enough. When 
 nearly cold, grate off the outer crust. Time to 
 bake, fifteen to twenty minutes. No. 2, — Take 
 a piece of dough the size of a small loaf., Work 
 into it a slice of butter, lard, or sweet dripping, 
 and one egg. Knead it well, and make it into 
 
 rolls thfee inches long and an inch thick. Lay 
 these side by side in. a buttered dish, and put 
 them into a quick oven. Do not open the oven- 
 door for a quarter of an hour, then brush the 
 tops of the rolls over with milk, bake them 
 five minutes longer and they will be done 
 enough. Time to bake, twenty minutes. 
 
 ROLLS, MEAT. 
 
 Mince some underdone meat — beef, veal, 
 chicken, or turkey — and pound it smoothly with 
 a third of its weight in fresh butter and a 
 liberal seasoning of pepper and salt. Make 
 some good forcemeat, and form it into small 
 rolls about three inches long and half an inch 
 thick. Moisten these with water, and cover 
 with one or two layers of the pounded meat. 
 Fold them in puff-paste, fasten the ends se- 
 curely, and bake in a well-heated oven. Serve 
 them piled on a neatly-folded napkin. The 
 forcemeat may be made as follows. Mix a 
 quarter of a tea-spoonful of finely-minced 
 lemon-rind with four ounces of finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs. Add salt and pepper, a pinch 
 of grated nutmeg, and a quarter of an ounce 
 of mixed sweet herbs finely powdered. Break 
 into the mixture two ounces of sweet butter, 
 moisten with the yolk of an egg, and work 
 lightly with the fingers till it is well mixed. 
 Time to bake the rolls, twenty minutes. 
 
 ROLLS, MEAT (another way). 
 
 Pound the meat as above. Form it into rolls, 
 and insert in the centre of each a spoonful of 
 mushrooms which have been stewed in butter 
 till tender and then drained. Fold the rolls in 
 puff-paste, and bake in a well-heated oven until 
 the pastry is done enough. Time to bake, 
 about twenty minutes. 
 
 ROLLS, MILK (to be eaten either hot or cold). 
 
 Put a pound of fine fiour into a bowl. Scoop 
 a hole out in the centre, and sprinkle round 
 the edge a tea-spoonful of salt and two tea- 
 spoonfuls of powdered sugar. Dissolve two 
 ounces of butter in half a pint of tepid milk, 
 add an ounce of German yeast, and work the 
 whole gradually to a stiff paste, adding a little 
 more flour if necessary. Cover the bowl with 
 a cloth, and put it on the hearth for the dough 
 to rise. When it is light, which will be in about 
 three-quarters of an hour, divide it into small 
 balls the size of an orange, rub these between 
 the hands into rolls, brush over with milk or 
 with beaten egg, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 Time to bake, ten to fifteen minutes. 
 ROLLS, OYSTER. 
 
 Take two or three square French rolls, cut a 
 slice ofE the top, and scoop out the greater part 
 of the crumb. Half fill the hollows with finely- 
 minced oysters seasoned with cayenne, and fill 
 to the top with rich white sauce. Lay on the 
 cover, tie it on with twine, and put the rolls in 
 a Dutch oven before a, clear fire until they are 
 brown and quite hot. If liked, the oysters can 
 be stewed before being put into the rolls. 
 ROLLS, POLENTA. 
 
 * Polenta is the name under which Italian flour 
 or maize is sold at the foreign warehouses in 
 this country. It is much superior in quality to 
 that which is imj^orted from America, and is 
 harvested with more care ; but its consumption 
 
ROU 
 
 725 
 
 ROM 
 
 iere is ccmparatively small, and it is sold at a 
 price wMch must, while it is maintained, pre- 
 vent its general use for bread, of which it 
 makes a pleasant variety when it is mixed with 
 twice the quantity of wheaten flour. Blend 
 intimately in an earthen pan one pint of the 
 polenta with a quart of the best flour, and 
 rather less than the usual proportion of salt. 
 Dilute gradually a dessert-spoonful of solid 
 yeast, or half an bunce of German yeast, with 
 a pint of warm new milk (a few spoonfuls more 
 than this quantity may be required, but it is 
 better not to add it at first), and make the 
 dough up at once. Let it be firm without 
 being hard, as it will become lithe in rising. 
 Leave it covered with a cloth until it appears 
 quite light; then knead it down thoroughly, 
 and let it again stand to rise. Divide it into 
 large rolls, place them some distance apart on 
 a, floured tin, and bake them in a moderate 
 oven from three-quarters of an hour to an hour. 
 The polenta imparts a pleasant flavour to this 
 bread, which eats almost like rice-cake, which 
 it may be made to resemble still further by dis- 
 solving an ounce of butter in the milk with 
 which it is mixed. (See also Polenta.) 
 
 ROLLS, TURKISH. 
 
 Take six ounces of Jordan almonds, a pint 
 and a half of milk, two to three pounds of 
 best flour, and half to three-quarters of an 
 ounce of German yeast. Blanch and pound the 
 almonds to a perfectly smooth paste, moisten 
 them gradually with the boiling milk or thin 
 cream, and let them simmer together for a few 
 minutes. Wring — with strong pressure — the 
 milk from the almonds through a tamis or a 
 thick cloth, and employ it like ordinary milk 
 for making the requisite quantity of flour into 
 dough. If liked, the dough may be slightly 
 tinged with saffron, and sweetened with a little 
 pounded sugar. 
 
 ROLLS, VEAL. 
 
 Cut thin slices of uncooked veal, or, if 
 preferred, take slices of underdone meat. 
 Spread on each one a seasoning of minced 
 bacon, chopped parsley, stewed and minced 
 mushrooms, pepper, salt, and pounded mace, 
 together with a few finely-grated bread-crumbs. 
 Fold the meat up, and tie it securely with 
 twine. Put the rolls into a saucepan with as 
 much nicely - flavoured brown gravy as will 
 cover them, and then let them simmer gently 
 until tender. Put them on a hot dish with the 
 gravy poured over them, and serve very hot. 
 
 ROLY-POLY PUDDING. 
 
 The pastry for this favourite pudding may be 
 made in three or four ways, according to the 
 degree of richness required. For a superior 
 pudding mix a pound of flour with half a pound 
 of very finely-shredded suet, freed from skin 
 and fibre. Add a good pinch of salt, an egg, 
 and nearly half a pint of milk. Roll out 
 three or four times. For a plainer pudding, 
 mix five or six ounces of suet with a pound of 
 flour, add a pinch of salt, and make a paste by 
 stirring in half a pint of water. When suet is 
 objected to, rub six ounces of butter or six 
 ounces of sweet dripping into a pound of flour, 
 and proceed as before. When a smaller quan- 
 tity still of dripping is used, the addition of 
 
 a spoonful of baking-powder will help to make 
 the pastry light. KoU out the dough to a long 
 thin form, a quarter of an inch thick, and of a 
 width to suit the size of the saucepan in which 
 it is to be boiled. Spread over it a layer of 
 any kind of jam, and be careful that it does 
 not reach the edges of the pastry. Begin at 
 one end, and roll it up to fasten the jam inside, 
 moisten the edges, and press them securely 
 together. Dip a cloth in boiling, water, flour 
 it well, and tie the pudding tightly in it. 
 Plunge, it into a saucepan of boiling water, ■ 
 at the bottom of which a plate has been laid 
 to keep the pudding from burning, and boil 
 quickly until done enough. If it is necessary 
 "to add more water, let it be put in boiling. 
 Marmalade, treacle, sliced lemon and sugar, 
 lemon - juice and sugar, chopped apples and 
 currants, either separately or together, may be 
 used instead of jam for a change. Time to 
 boil the puddiilg, one hour and a half to two 
 hours, according to the size. 
 
 ROMAN GNIOCCHI. 
 
 Put three ounces of fresh butter into a sauce- 
 pan with half a pint of boiling water and a 
 seasoning of saU, cayenne, and powdered mace. 
 As soon as the water reaches the boiling point 
 stir in very gradually six ounces of fine flour, 
 and beat the batter with a wooden spoon till it 
 is quite smooth and leaves the saucepan in a 
 lump with the spoon; then add the yolks of 
 four eggs and the whites ot two, and two table- 
 spoonfuls of grated Parmesan. Work the 
 pastry briskly for two or three minutes, and 
 dredge flour upon it to keep it from sticking to 
 the fingers, then roll it into the form of 
 small sausages. Throw the rolls into boiling 
 water, and keep them boiling for ten minutes. 
 Drain them, lay them on a dish, pour a little 
 good brown gravy over them, and serve very 
 hot. Time to boil the gniocchi, ten minutes. 
 Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 ROMAN PUNCH, ICED. 
 
 Put two pounds of finely-powdered sugar into 
 a bowl, and strain over it the juice of ten 
 lemons and two sweet oranges. Add the thin 
 rind of a lemon and an orange, and let the 
 infusion remain for one hour. Strain the syrup 
 through muslin, add gradually the whites of 
 ten eggs beaten to a firm froth, and freeze the 
 punch in the usual way,, being careful to work 
 it vigorously with the spattle while it is being 
 frozen. A few minutes before serving, mix to- 
 gether a pint of old white Jamaica rum, half » 
 pint of green tea half a pint of brandy, and a 
 bottle of champagne. Add the ice, and stir 
 brisklv till it dissolves. 4 H'^* °^ pineapple 
 syrup may be added or not. This punch should 
 be thick and creamy in appearance. If it is too 
 thick to be poured into glasses, it should be 
 thinned with a little more champagne. Iced 
 Roman punch should be handed round in high 
 glasses between the roast and the game courses. 
 ROMAN SAUCE. 
 
 Cut one pound of veal and half a pound of 
 ham into dice, and put them into a saucepan 
 with two legs of a fowl, three or four carrots, 
 four onions, two bay-leaves, three cloves, a 
 little basil, half a pound of butter, and a little 
 
ROM 
 
 726 
 
 ROO 
 
 salt; put into a saucepan and set on rather a 
 brisk fire. In the meanwhile, pound the yolks 
 of twelve hard-boiled eggs to a paste, and stir 
 them into the above till the butter is entirely 
 melted; then pour in by degrees a quart of 
 cream. Set the pan again on the fire for half 
 an hour, stirring all the time ; if the sauce be 
 too thick, add more cream or milk. When suf- 
 ficiently done, strain through a tamis. Prob- 
 able cost, 4b. 
 
 ROMBO OR FOWL IN SALAD SAUCE. 
 
 Take a cold roast fowl and bone it, or cut up 
 any remaining from the previous day into suit- 
 able-sized pieces. Make a 'sauce as follows. 
 Take the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, beat 
 them up, and add to them two spoonfuls of oil, 
 a spoonful and a half of vinegar, a tea-spoonful 
 of chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and a little 
 flour of mustard, to which may be added a tea- 
 spoonful of chopped tarragon and onion. Dip 
 each piece of fowl separately in this seasoning, 
 and arrange the pieces in a di^ garnished with 
 hard-boiled eggs cut in rings, and sprigs of 
 parsley. 
 
 RONBRiJCK CAKES. 
 
 Take fourteen ounces of best white flour, 
 sifted and slightly baked, so as t^ be perfectly 
 dry, two ounces of rice flour, half a pound of 
 butter, six ounces of castor sugar, and one 
 level tea-spoonful of baking-powder. Wash the 
 butter and squeeze dry. Mix the butter and 
 sjigar together, and beat to a cream, then add 
 the baking powder and flour. Knead all well 
 together; then take a sheet of white baking- 
 paper the size of oven tray, divide dough into 
 several pieces, and roll or knead out on this 
 paper. Never move the cakes about, but let 
 them remain where they are flattened out. 
 Make them into a round shape, then pinch 
 round the edge with finger and thumb. Prick 
 the centre with a fork. Lift them up on paper, 
 and place on tray in a brisk oven. Take care 
 the oven is not too hot. Leave door slightly 
 ajar till cakes rise a little, then close the door 
 very gently and bake for forty minutes. Dust 
 over with fine sugar when cooked. 
 
 -ROOK. 
 
 The rook afEords a dry and coarse meat. A 
 pie made of young rooks is tolerable; at least, 
 it 18 the best form for using these birds as food. 
 , There is, in the opinion of some, a resemblance 
 between the flavour of the young rook and that 
 of the young pigeon. 
 
 ROOK PIE. 
 
 Rooks require long stewing, or they will not 
 be tender. The breasts are the only parts of 
 the birds which are really worth using, and 
 when the other portions are put into the dish, 
 care should be taken to cut out the spine and 
 the flesh near it to the width of three-quarters 
 of an inch, or the pie will have a, bitter taste. 
 Many cooks lay the birds in a dish, season 
 them with pepper and salt, put a coarse flour- 
 and-water crust over them, and then bake them 
 for a couple of hours; the next day they re- 
 move the common crust, lay good pastry over 
 them, and bake the pie in the usual way. The 
 following recipe will, however, be found very 
 good. Take six or eight freshly-killed young 
 
 rooks. Skin without plucking them, and to do 
 this cut the skin round the first joint of the 
 legs, and draw it over the head. Cut off the 
 necks, draw the birds, and cut away the legs, 
 backs, and wings. Cut a pound of chuck steak 
 into neat squares, pepper these, and lay them 
 in a pie-dish, pouring over them half a tea-cup- 
 ful of stock or water; cover the dish closely, 
 and bake the meat till it is almost done 
 enough. Lay the breasts of the rooks upon the 
 steak, with a small slice of butter upon each. 
 Sprinkle over them a seasoning of salt, pepper, 
 and pounded mace, and pour over them as 
 much stock or water as will barely cover them. 
 Let them bake gently for half an hour. Let 
 the dish cool, then line the edges with good 
 pastry, cover it with the same, ornament ac- 
 cording to taste, make a hole in the centre that 
 the steam may escape, and bake in a brisk 
 oven. When the pastry is done enough, the 
 pie may be served. Time to bake, altogether, 
 two hours and a half. Probable cost, uncer- 
 tain, rooks being seldom sold. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 
 ROOK PIE (another way). 
 
 Skin and draw six young rooks, and cut out 
 the backbones. Season the birds with pepper and 
 salt, put them in a deep dish with half a pint 
 of water, lay some bits of butter over them, and 
 cover the dish with a tolerably thick crust. Let 
 the pie be well baked. 
 
 ROOTS, ESCULENT. 
 
 These are of two kinds — those used as food, 
 and those which principally answer the pur- 
 poses of condiment or seasoning. Under the 
 first division may be classed turnips, carrots, 
 parsnips, Jerusalem artichokes, radishes, etc., 
 many of which, it will be seen, are seldom used 
 solely for aliment, but are rather brought to 
 our tables to qualify our animal food. Under 
 the second division may be arranged onions, 
 garlic, horse-radish, etc. We may add a few 
 observations on the qualities of these several 
 roots. 
 
 The carrot, from the quantity of saccharine 
 matter which it contains, is very nutritive and 
 slightly laxative; but it also possesses a large 
 proportion of fibrous matter, which in some 
 stomachs prevents the digestion of the root, 
 and it passes through the bowels with but little 
 change. To obviate this effect, it ought to be 
 very thoroughly boiled, and it should be eaten 
 when young. The turnip is a very excellent 
 vegetable, and, although it has the character 
 of being flatulent, is less liable to disagree with 
 the stomach than the carrot. It ought, how- 
 ever, to be well boiled, and the watery part 
 separated by pressure. The parsnip is nutri- 
 tive and digestive, although many persons dis- 
 like it on account of its sweet flavour. The 
 Jerusalem artichoke is agreeable, but watery 
 and flatulent. It ought, therefore, never to be 
 eaten without a proper accompaniment of salt 
 and pepper. As to radishes, all the varieties 
 have a pungent and acrid taste, in consequence 
 of a peculiar stimulating matter which resides 
 in the cortical part of the root. They may loe 
 said to contain little else than water, woody 
 fibre, and an acrid matter, and cannot, there- 
 fore, be very nutritive. They may act as a stimu- 
 
ROO 
 
 727 
 
 ROS 
 
 lant and prove useful, but they ought never 
 to be eaten when old, as the quantity of inert 
 matter in such a condition is apt to disagree 
 with the stomach. From the consideration of 
 radishes we pass, by an easy transition, to that 
 of onions, etc., for they appear to form the 
 connecting link between alimentary roots and 
 those principally used as condiments. The 
 onion, however, although classed under this 
 latter division, and though it must be con- 
 sidered as valuable on account of its stimulat- 
 ing matter, certainly contains a considerable 
 proportion of nourishment. This appears evi- 
 dent in the boiled state, by which process their 
 acrimony is exhaled and a sweet mucilage 
 separated. The French are fully aware of the 
 quantity of nourishment this plant affords, 
 hence the soup a I'oignon is considered by them 
 as the best of all restoratives. As a stimulant 
 to the stomach and bowels, the onion in u, raw 
 state is certainly of value, and this is much 
 enhanced by its diuretic properties. The leek, 
 garlic, and shallot are of the same species, and 
 possess qualities of the same nature. Horse- 
 radish is a warm and pungent root, and is 
 highly valuable to the dyspeptic as a stimu- 
 lant; it is, perhaps, the best of all condiments 
 for the prevention of flatulency. 
 
 ROOTS, ESSENCE OF (maigre). 
 
 Clean three bunches of carrots, two of tur- 
 nips, six heads of celery, two bunches of white 
 onions, qnd one of leeks, the whole sliced, and 
 put them for two minutes in boiling water ; cool 
 them afterwards in cold water, then drain, and 
 put them in a stock-pot with ten quarts of boil- 
 ing water, add an onion with two cloves, a 
 little salt, pepper, nutmeg, grated, and butter ; 
 simmer them for three hours over a slow fire, 
 skim off all the butter, and strain the essence 
 through a silk sieve. This stock, not being 
 coloured, is adapted for sauces and soups that 
 are to be white. 
 
 ROOTS, MACEDOINE OF. 
 
 Take some button onions, peel them; some 
 carrots as red as you can get them, and some 
 nice young turnips. Pare off the outer red part 
 of the carrots, having first scraped and cleaned 
 them thoroughly, and cut the parings into bits 
 about the size of peas; do so also with the tur- 
 nips, but leave the onions whole. Fry the 
 onions and turnips in a good lump of butter 
 and a tea-spoonful of sugar, but the carrots 
 require more cooking, and should be stewed 
 previously in water for about ten or fifteen 
 minutes, when they may be fried wifh the rest. 
 Toss all the vegetables well in the butter until 
 they are glazed but not burned. Add a cupful 
 of Bechamel Maigeb and stew, with a proper 
 seasoning of salt and pepper, until the mace- 
 doine has acquired a rather thickish consistency 
 and the sauce is reduced. To thicken, add the 
 yolk of an egg beaten up with two table-spoon- 
 fuls of cream. Stir in the thickening when 
 the macedoine is ready to serve, and when the 
 heat has gone off a little, or the milk will curdle 
 and spoil the sauce. If not required for a 
 maigre dish, use bechamel made with meat, but 
 in every other respect proceed as before directed. 
 Time, fifteen minutes to stew the carrots; to 
 fry, five or six minutes. Probable cost of 
 
 bechamel maigre, per pint, 6d. This is mostlyi 
 used as a maigre dish. 
 
 ROOTS, PICKLED. 
 
 To pickle roots — such as beetroots, carrots, 
 salsifies, etc. — slice them, boil them in vinegar 
 for a short time, and flavour with the usual 
 spices. They should not, of course, be boiled 
 sufficiently long to destroy their crispness. 
 
 ROQUEFORT CHEESE. 
 
 The celebrated cheese of Eoquefort, which 
 takes its name from the place where it is pro- 
 duced, was made in the seventeenth century in 
 the following way, accordino; to Marcorelle. 
 "The curd employed is made from sheep's milk 
 mixed with a little goat's milk. It is broken as 
 small as possible. When it is taken from the 
 moulds it is bound with a linen band and taken 
 to the drying-room, then to the caves, where it 
 is rubbed with salt on the two flat sides of the 
 surface. The downy substance which subse- 
 quently covers the crust is frec[uently scraped 
 off, after which it is left to ripen on tablets 
 exposed to currents of air which proceed from 
 the interstices of the rocks in which the caves 
 are formed." 
 
 ROSE BRANDY, FOR FLAVOURING CAKES AND 
 PUDDINGS. 
 
 Fill a bottle with freshly-gathered rose- 
 leaves, and shake them down. Pour brandy 
 over them to cover them, cork the bottle closely, 
 and store the infusion for use. 
 
 ROSE CREAM. 
 
 Bfeil a pint of milk, sweeten it, and flavour 
 with a table-spoonful of rose brandy. Drop 
 into it while boiling the whites of four eggs in 
 separate table-spoonfuls. Turn these over 
 once or twice in the hoj; milk till they are just 
 set, then lift them carefully out, and put them 
 on a sieve to drain. Make a custard with the 
 yolks of the eggs and the milk, and stir this 
 over the fire till it begins to thicken. An ad- 
 ditional pint of milk may be added or not. 
 Put it into a custard-bowl, and when it is cold 
 lay the poached egg-whites upon it. Sprinkle 
 " hundreds and fhousands " over these, or lay 
 upon them candied peel cut into shreds, and then 
 serve. Time to poach the egg-whites, half a 
 minute. Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for three 
 or four persons. 
 
 ROSE CUSTARD (a French recipe). 
 
 Boil a pint of good milk; when it boils up, 
 set it on one side of the fire, and sweeten to 
 taste, adding some essence of rose and a little 
 carmine in powder by way of colouring. Whilst 
 this infusion is going on, take the yolks of 
 eighteen or twenty eggs, put them into a deep 
 dish, and with a wooden spoon keep turning 
 them till they are well mixed. To these ingre- 
 dients add by degrees the milk, keeping it 
 turned all £ke time; then strain the mixture; 
 put it again into the saucepan, set it on the 
 fire, keep stirring it till it thickens, but on no 
 account allow it to boil, or all will be spoiled. 
 To prevent this, keep stirring it with one hand, 
 holding the other on the handle of the sauce- 
 pan to remove it instantly. Strain the mix- 
 ture a second time into custard-cups or a deep 
 bowl. 
 
ROS 
 
 728 
 
 ROS 
 
 ROSE DROPS. 
 
 Put a pound of loaf sugar into a saucepan 
 witli two ounces of water. Stir it over a slow 
 fire till it is dissolved, and add a few drops of 
 essence of rose, and three or four drops of 
 cochineal. When the syrup is on the point of 
 simmering, take it from the fire, stir it a few 
 minutes longer, and drop it in small rounds 
 upon an oiled slab or dish. Let the drops cool, 
 then remove them with the point of a knife. 
 Or, dry half an ounce of red rose-leaves, pound 
 them to powder, and sift carefully. Mix with 
 them one pound of finely-powdered sugar, and 
 add as much strained lemon-juice as will make 
 a stiff paste. Stir this mixture over a slow fire 
 till it is scalding hot, then drop it in small 
 rounds upon an oiled dish, and set them in a 
 warm place for twenty-four hours. 
 
 AOSE JUICE (a German recipe). 
 
 "To a pint of honey take two ounces of red 
 and two ounces of white roses, two ounces of 
 the flowers of sage, and two ounces of the 
 flowers of blackthorn; pound them well, and 
 when the honey is clarified, put them in. Boil 
 it until it becomes a thick syrup, pour it 
 through a tamis, and put it into glasses. The 
 thick sediment that remains may be also used, 
 adding a spoonful or two of honey to it. 
 Juices may be pressed in like manner from 
 violets, pinks, and corn-flowers." 
 
 ROSEMARY. 
 
 The leaves of the rosemary are infused in 
 some drinks, and the sprigs are employed as 
 a garnish. The plant is evergreen, and highly 
 aromatic. 
 
 ROSEMARY FLOWERS, TO CANDY. 
 
 Soak a little gum - tragacanth (commonly 
 called gum-dragon) in water, and soak some 
 rosemary flowers in the mucilage thus prepared. 
 Lay them on a sheet of paper, and sprinkle 
 powdered loaf sugar over them. Put them in 
 a warm place, and sprinkle powdered sugar over 
 them frequently till they are covered with 
 candy. Store in a cool dry place. 
 
 ROSE MERINGUES. 
 
 Take as many meringues as may be required 
 (see Mebingues), pale in colour, and alike in 
 size and shape. Mix a little sifted icing-sugar 
 to a soft paste with white of egg, and dip the 
 edges in, and build up the meringues in tiers, 
 with a hollow space inside. Garnish with about 
 an ounce of crystallised rose-leaves, using a 
 little of the icing for sticking them on. Fill 
 the centre with whipped cream, flavoured as 
 preferred, and close the top with one or more 
 meringues and a little pile of rose-leaves. Crys- 
 tallised violets may be used in place of rose- 
 leaves. Probable cost, about 4s. 
 
 ROSENEATH PUDDINGS. 
 
 Take two eggs, and their weight in flour, in 
 butter, and in sugar. Beat the butter to cream, 
 add the sugar, flour, and eggs, and any flavouring 
 that may be preferred. Butter some small cups, 
 three-parts fill them with the mixture, and bake 
 in a moderate oVen. Serve cold, with almonds 
 sliced and cut into strips stuck into the puddings. 
 Time, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 
 8d. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 ROSE PANCAKES. 
 
 Make a batter of four eggs, half a pint of 
 milk, four ounces of flour, and a little salt. 
 Boil a nice red beetroot, pass it through a 
 hair or wire sieve, or pound it in a mortar, add 
 it to the batter, and fry the mixture in the 
 usual way. Spread the pancakes with any 
 bright-coloured jam, and serve. Probable cost, 
 Is. 
 
 ROSE SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS, ETC. 
 
 Take a fresh beetroot, peel it, and cut it into 
 small pieces. Put these into a saucepan, pour 
 over them a quart of cold water, and let them 
 boil softly for half an hour. Add the strained 
 juice and thin rind of a fresh lemon, two pounds 
 of loaf sugar, and three or four drops of vanilla. 
 Boil the sauce quickly until it forms a thick rose- 
 coloured syrup, then strain it, and when it is 
 cold mix with it a quarter of a pint of brandy. 
 Bottle and store for use. Time to boil the 
 syrup, about half an hour. Probable cost, ex- 
 clusive of the brandy. Is. 2d. 
 
 ROSES, TINCTURE OF. 
 
 Take the leaves of the common rose and place 
 them, without pressing, in an ordinary bottle ; 
 pour some good spirits of wine upon them, close 
 the bottle, and set aside till required for use. 
 Common vinegar is greatly improved by a very 
 small quantity of the tincture of roses being 
 added to it. 
 
 ROSE TEA. 
 
 Pour a pint of boiling water over an ounce of 
 red rose-leaves. Cover the infusion, and let it 
 remain for ten minutes. Filter it, sweeten it 
 with honey, and drink a glassful cold the first 
 thing in the morning. Time to infuse^ ten 
 minutes. Hose tea in some complaints is a 
 useful tonic. 
 
 ROSETTI. 
 
 Chop an onion very fine, and put it into a 
 frying-pan with a table-spoonfm of butter. 
 When cooked, mix two breakfast-cupfuls of cold 
 boiled rice, half a pound of minced tongue or 
 ham, and two hard-boiled eggs chopped finely. 
 Put this into the frying-pan with the onion 
 and a little milk; add salt and pepper to taste, 
 and fry for a quarter of an hour. Probable 
 cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 ROSE-WATER. 
 
 When the buds of the red rose begin to ex- 
 pand into the full-blown flower, their perfume 
 is most perfect, and in that state they should 
 be gathered on a dry morning, the heels cut off, 
 ana the leaves' dnly put into a clean cask in 
 layers, with salt sprinkled between them, to 
 preserve them till they are collected in quantity 
 sufficient for distillation. Fill the still two- 
 thirds with the petals and salt together, with a 
 little water at the bottom to prevent burning, 
 and have the still put into a water bath; pro- 
 ceed to the distillation with a very slow fire, 
 and receive the first product in several phials 
 in order to examine It. The first will be highly 
 impregnated ; and as soon as the slightest em- 
 pyreumatic odour or burnt smell is perceived, 
 throw away the portion that is contaminated, 
 and stop the distillation. Rose-water should 
 be kept in a cool, dark place, as heat and light 
 
ROT 
 
 729 
 
 ROU 
 
 speedily cause it to spoil. It is best to put it 
 into a stone jar with a cork, that it may be 
 drawn off without disturbing the sediment, 
 which is apt to arise if decanted from small 
 bottles. It should be made in small quantities 
 at a time, as it will not keep long. The salted 
 leaves will keep for months, and do as well 
 for distillation as when gathered fresh, and 
 it is to be observed that it is an error to 
 suppose that the salt is of any further use in 
 the distillation than to keep the leaves from 
 spoiling. Perfumed tepid water for finger- 
 glasses may be easily prepared by infusing a 
 few fresh or dried rose-petals, lavender, or any 
 other flower, in the morning for the purpose. 
 
 ROTI DE PAUVRE HOMME. 
 
 Take a fine pullet or capon, the fattest pro- 
 curable. Make a forcemeat, consisting of seme 
 finely-chopped sausage-meat, raw veal and lean 
 ham, cock's kidneys and combs, dried artichoke 
 bottoms, mushrooms, truffles, some shredded 
 parsley, a little lemon thyme and sweet basil, 
 one anchovy washed, boned, and chopped fine — 
 the whole chopped and well mixed together, 
 seasoned with salt, pepper, and a little grated 
 nutmeg, with a good lump of fresh butter well 
 incorporated with it. With this forcemeat fill 
 the' fowl by the vent, which sew up afterwards. 
 Saturate with butter or olive-oil three or four 
 sheets of writing-paper, and carefully dredge 
 the fowl with flour. Envelop the bird in the 
 paper two layers thick, and cover the whole 
 with another layer slightly buttered. Bury the 
 bird thus prepared in hot wood-ashes until it is 
 cooked, or put it in a range oven, covered with 
 a dish, which must exclude the air from be- 
 neath. 
 
 ROTI DE ROGNONS DE VEAU. 
 
 Take kidneys which have been carefully 
 roasted before the fire, chop them up with fat, 
 and mix them with mushrooms cut small and 
 fried in butter, and also with parsley, chives, 
 bay-leaves, and thyme. Season with pepper and 
 salt, and make the chopped kidneys into a 
 paste of the proper consistency for forcemeat 
 with the yolks of some raw eggs. Place thick 
 layers of this on slices of fried bread from which 
 the crust has been cut off. Sprinkle over bread- 
 crumbs' mixed with raw eggs. Place the slices 
 of bread thus prepared on a dish, put a hot cover 
 over it, and strew some live cinders on top. 
 
 ROTTERDAM PUDDING, RICH. 
 
 Beat four ounces and a half of fine flour to 
 a smooth paste with half a pint of milk, and 
 add four ounces and a half of sugar and a small 
 pinch of salt. Blanch and pound four ounces 
 and a half of sweet almonds, and whilst pound- 
 ing drop in a little cold water to keep them 
 from oiling. Put four ounces and a half of 
 butter into a saucepan with half a pint of milk. 
 Let it remain until the butter is melted, then 
 stir in the paste of flour and milk, and keep 
 stirring the mixture over the fire until it boils 
 and becomes thick, when it may be TJOured out 
 to cool. Add the blanched and pounded al- 
 monds, then stir in first the well-beaten yolks 
 of nine eggs, and afterwards the whites of the 
 eggs whisked till firm. Beat the pudding 
 briskly for a few minutes, pour it into a but- 
 
 tered basin which it will fill, tie it in a cloth, 
 and let it- boil without ceasing until done 
 enough. Turn it out carefully, and send wine 
 sauce to table with it. Time to boil, one hour 
 and a half. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for 
 six or eight persons. 
 
 ROULETTE, LOBSTER. 
 
 Boil the lobsters, take out the meat, and chop 
 it up; pound the shells with butter, set them 
 on the fire, and add half a pint of water. When 
 it has boiled a quarter of an hour, add two 
 ounces of fiour, a little pounded mace, and a 
 pinch of sugar; add bouillon to it till it be- 
 comes like thick pap; then stir in the chopped 
 lobster and a little salt ; remove from the fire ; 
 when quite cold, make it into shapes, and pro- 
 ceed as in the next recipe. 
 
 ROULETTES (a Spanish recipe). 
 
 Take one ounce of grated onion, . and brown 
 it in an ounce and a half of butter, together 
 with two ounces of flour ; thin the mixture with 
 half a pint of good stock. Let all boil together 
 till it is smooth, then stir in half a pound of 
 any roasted or boiled meet, finely chopped; 
 add three boned anchovies minced, pounded 
 pepper, salt, a little mace, the juice of half a 
 lemon, and a glassful of white wine. "When the 
 preparation is quite cold, cut it into the form 
 of sausages ; roll these in bread-crumbs, then 
 in egg beaten up, then again in bread and egg, 
 and last of all in bread-crumbs; fry in plenty 
 of hot lard; garnish with fried parsley, and 
 serve. The above ingredients are enough for 
 about sixteen roulettes. 
 
 ROULETTES, FISH. 
 
 Take perch, pike, or cod; boil and pick away 
 all bone and skin. To every half-pound of 
 picked fish, take one ounce of flour; brown the 
 flour in two ounces of butter, and thin it with 
 milk till it becomes a thickish paste ; add the 
 fish to this paste along with a little pounded 
 mace and salt; give it a boil up, set aside till 
 cold; then cut iip, and proceed as directed in 
 the previous recipe. 
 
 ROUT BISCUITS. 
 
 Three pounds of flour, six ounces of butter, 
 one pound and a quarter of loaf sugar in pow- 
 der, half a pint of milk, quarter of an ounce of 
 volatile salts finely powdered, and a little 
 essence of lemon. Put the sugar and volatile 
 salts in the milk, and let them stand for an 
 hour or two, stirring them occasionally. 
 
 Another method. One pound of sugar, a tea- 
 cupful of milk or water, four ounces of butter, 
 and half an ounce of volatile salts. Put the 
 sugar and milk in a clean saucepan over the fire, 
 let them boil up, and see if all the sugar is dis- 
 solved; if not, give it another boil or two, and 
 set it aside to cool. It will be ready for use 
 when cold. Eub the butter in with the fiour, 
 make a hollow, pour in the sugar, and make the 
 whole into a dough of a moderate stiffness. In 
 the last method, the volatile salts should be 
 pounded and mixed with the sugar, and suf- 
 ficient flour should be used to make them of a 
 proper consistency, keeping the dough in a loose 
 state until it is nearly of the size required ; theu 
 work it together; take a part of the dough, 
 mould it in a square piece, and lay it over the 
 
ROU 
 
 730 
 
 ROY 
 
 impressions or figures carved in a block of wood, 
 and press it in ; keep your hand firm on it, that 
 it may retain its place ; have a thin knife which 
 is made for this purpose, called a toy knife, rub 
 it over a damp cloth, or pass it through flour; 
 lay it flat on the block, and cut off the super- 
 fluous dough; take the biscuits out and place 
 them on tins slightly buttered, so as not to 
 touch each other; wash them over lightly with 
 milk, and bake them in a very hot oven. This 
 mixture is the best for those who are not ex- 
 pert in pastry cutting. When made according 
 to the first recipe, the dough is apt to get tough 
 if worked or moulded too much — an error to 
 which the inexperienced are very prone. 
 ROUT CAKES. 
 
 No. 1. — Beat half a pound of butter to cream, 
 add half a pound of powdered sugar, one pound 
 of flour, and half a pound of picked and dried 
 currants. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly, 
 and make them into a stiff paste with three 
 eggs beaten up with a glassful of brandy and 
 a table-spoonful of rose or orange-flower water. 
 Sprinkle some mixed flour and powdered sugar 
 over a baking-tin, drop the preparation upon it 
 in small knobs, and bake these in a quick oven. 
 
 No. 2. — Beat four ounces of butter to cream, 
 and add four ounces of sugar, six ounces of 
 dried flour, the well-beaten yolks of six eggs, 
 and a flavouring of grated lemon, pounded al- 
 monds, and orange-flower or rose-water. Beat 
 the mixture briskly for a few minutes, and pour 
 it into a shallow mould lined with buttered 
 paper. Bake in a well-heated oven. Let the 
 cake get cold, then cut it with a very sharp knife 
 into small fancy shapes of any kind, and moisten 
 these with white of egg beaten up with pow- 
 dered white sugar. Crisp them before the flre, 
 and when the icing is set put them in a cool 
 dry place till wanted. 
 ROUT CAKES, ALMOND (Read's recipe). 
 
 Take one pound of sweet almonds and one 
 pound of loaf sugar; beat your almonds and 
 sugar quite fine, and make it into a moderately 
 stiff paste with the yolk of an egg. Make them 
 into any shape your fancy may dictate. Use 
 finely-powdered loaf sugar to dust your board or 
 blocks. In making them, place them on clean 
 tins that are slightly buttered, so as not to 
 touch, or lay a sheet of whity-brown paper on 
 the tin to put them on. Let them remain in » 
 warm place all night, or a day and a night, be- 
 fore they are baked. Put them in a rather brisk 
 oven ; when lightly coloured over, they are done. 
 Ornament them with nonpareils, candied peel, 
 icing, etc., to fancy; make a. mucilage of gum 
 arable, and, with a small brush, lay it over the 
 parts where you wish the nonpareils to adhere ; 
 this is done after they are baked. If you wish 
 to cut your paste out of blocks, put it in a 
 stewpan over the fire ; keep stirring it with 
 a spoon or spaddle ; stir it well to the bottom. 
 When you find the paste does not stick to the 
 sides of the pan, and comes altogether, it is 
 done. Let it get cold before you cut it out. 
 When the cakes are made in this way the im- 
 pressions show much better. 
 ROUX. 
 
 Roux is simply a mixture of flour and butter, 
 which, when baked, is used for thickening soups 
 
 and gravies. It is freq^uently spoken of as a 
 brown or white thickening; it should be kept 
 in a covered jar, and will remain good for 
 months. A tea-spoonful is generally sufficient 
 to thicken a pint of gravy. 
 
 ROUX, BROWN. 
 
 Dissolve half a. pound of fresh butter, skim 
 it well, let it stand for a minute, and pour it 
 away from the impurities, which will settle to 
 the bottom. Put the clear oily part into a 
 saucepan over a slow flre, and shake into it 
 about seven or eight ounces of fine flour, or as 
 much as will msJce a thick paste. Stir con- 
 stantly, and heat the preparation slowly and 
 equally until it is very thick and of a bright 
 brown colour. Put it into a jar, and stir a 
 spoonful into soup or gravy as it is needed. A. 
 tea-spoonful will thicken half a pint of gravy. 
 Boux may be mixed with hot or cold stock. If 
 cold, stir it over the fire till it boils; if hot, 
 moisten the roux gradually with the stock, and 
 off the fire to keep it from lumping. 
 
 ROUX, BROWN, OR THICKENING. 
 
 (See Gbatt, Beown, Eoxtx fob Thickening.) 
 
 ROUX, BROWN, FOR IMMEDIATE USE. 
 
 Put an ounce of butter into a saucepan over 
 a slow fire, and when it is dissolved shake into 
 it an ounce and a half of dried flour. Stir with 
 a wooden spoon until it has acquired a light- 
 brown colour ; this will take about ten minutes. 
 Eemove the roux from the fire for two minutes 
 to cool, add a pint and a half of stock, stir this 
 till it boils up, then draw the saucepan to the 
 side of the fire, and let the sauce simmer till 
 it is smooth and of a proper consistency. 
 ROUX, WHITE. 
 
 Proceed as above^ but be careful to remove 
 the paste from the fire before it has acquired 
 any colour. White roux is used for white 
 sauces. 
 
 ROWAN. 
 
 The fruit of the rowan-tree or mountain-ash, 
 when the bitter has been extracted by soaking 
 it in water,' may be made into a preserve : it 
 finds favour in many parts of Scotland. 
 
 ROYAL CHILDREN'S PUDDINGS. 
 
 Slice a penny loaf, and pour upon it a pint 
 and a half of boiling milk. Let it stand till 
 soft, then beat it lightly with a fork, and add 
 a heaped table-spoonful of moist sugar, a little 
 grated nutmeg or any other fiavouring, and four 
 well-beaten eggs. Half fill some small buttered 
 tea-cups with the mixture, and bake the pud- 
 dings in a well-heated oven. If liked, a slice 
 of butter may be added, but its absence will 
 render the puddings more digestible. Time to 
 bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost. Is. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 ROYAL CREAM PIE. 
 
 Mix together two table-spoonfuls of flour, 
 three of sugar, and a quarter of a pint of milk ; 
 bring to the boil and add a pint of cream by 
 degrees. Bring again to the boil, then take 
 from the fire and beat in three eggs, leaving 
 out two of the whites. Line a pie-dish with a 
 nice flaky paste, pour the mixture in, and bake 
 it until it has a good brown surface. Beat the 
 remaining whites, mix with an ounce of sugar 
 
ROY 
 
 731 
 
 RUF 
 
 and a little spice, and spread unevenly over the 
 top; the pie should then be returned to the 
 oven to brown. Any kind of fruit in season 
 may be served with this pic. Probable cost. 
 Is. lOd., without the fruit. , 
 
 ROYAL FRITTERS. 
 
 Put a pint of new milk into a saucepan over 
 the fire, and as it rises in the pan stir into it 
 half a pint of light wine. Pour it out, and 
 let it stand a few minutes to cool, skim off the 
 curd, and put it into a basin. Beat it well 
 with two table-spoonfuls of sugar, a little grated 
 lemon-rind qr any other flavouring, three well- 
 whisked eggs, and as much flour as will make 
 a stiff batter. Fry the fritters in the usual way. 
 Drain them well, and serve on a hot dish. Send 
 cut lemons to table with the fritters. 
 
 ROYAL PASTRY. 
 
 Take four ounces of sweet almonds ground or 
 finely pounded, with three or four bitter ones, 
 mix them with a, table-spoonful of powdered 
 sugar, and add as much white of egg as will 
 make a smooth paste. Mix an ounce of finely- 
 sifted sugar with half a pound of flour. Rub 
 four ounces of fresh butter into this, and make 
 it into paste by stirring into it the white of 
 an egg beaten up with a little cold water. Boll 
 this pastry out, spread the almond paste upon 
 it, and stamp the two together into fancy 
 shapes of any size. Brush over with white of 
 egg, and sprinkle chopped almonds thickly over 
 the cakes. Shake a little sugar on the top of 
 them. Put the cakes ou a buttered baking-sheet, 
 and bake in a moderately-heated oven. When 
 done, the coating of almonds should be of a 
 light-fawn colour. Remove the cakes carefully 
 from the baking-sheet, and pile them in a pyra- 
 mid upon a napkin. If liked, they can be orna- 
 mented with bright-coloured jelly of any kind. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. per pound. 
 
 ROYAL PUNCH (to be served hot). 
 
 Put a quarter of a jjound of doubly-refined 
 sugar in large lumps into a bowl, and with it 
 two limes and a thin slice of fresh lemon. " With 
 a bruiser rub the sugar and the fruit well to- 
 gether, then mix thoroughly with two glassfuls 
 of calf's foot jelly in a hot state. Take brandy, 
 rum, arrack, and Curagoa in equal quantities, 
 and stir them into the preparation. When 
 thoroughly mixed, add a pint of boiling green 
 tea, and serve hot. The quantity of spirit must 
 be regulated by taste; half a pint of each will 
 generally be found sufficient. 
 
 ROYAL SAUCE, FOR FISH. 
 
 Beat two raw yolks of eggs with two ounces 
 of fresh butter. Add gradually a tea-spoonful 
 of elder vinegar, a tea-spoonful of tarragon 
 vinegar, a, tea-spoonful of soy, a pinch of 
 cayenne, and a very small quantity of nutmeg. 
 Pour the mixture into an earthen jar; set this 
 in a small saucepan of boiling water, and keep 
 the contents of the jar boiling, stirring briskly 
 all the time until the sauce begins to thicken 
 and presents a rich smooth appearance ; be ex- 
 ceedingly careful that it does not curdle, which 
 it will quickly do if not taken from^ the fire 
 as soon as it is smooth and thick. Time, about 
 ten minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for 
 three or four persons. 
 
 ROYAL SAUCE FOR TURKEYS AND FOWLS. 
 
 Take the breast of a cold roast fowl, free it 
 from skin, and pound it to paste in a mortar 
 with a slice of bread which has been soaked in 
 milk and squeezed dry. Add as much white 
 stock as will make the paste smooth and of 
 the consistency of mustard- and a seasoning of 
 pepper and salt, and simmer tne sauce over a 
 gentle fire. Let it cool, stir into it the yolks 
 of two eggs which have been beaten up with 
 half a cupful of cream, and stir the sauce again 
 over the fire, but do not allow it to boil after 
 the eggs are added. If liked, this sauce may 
 be flavoured with five or six blanched and 
 pounded almonds. Time altogether, about one 
 hour. Probable cost, lOd., exclusive of the cold 
 chicken. Sufficient for six or seven persona. 
 
 ROYANS. 
 
 These are fish of the sardine family. They 
 are not unlike sardines, but are smaller, more 
 delicate in taste, and less oily. They should be 
 very fresh. 
 
 ROYANS, BROILED (a Bordeaux recipe). 
 
 Take the fish, wipe them with a cloth, squeeze 
 firmly the tip of the tail. Sprinkle salt over 
 them, and place them on a gridiron to broil 
 over a brisk fire. As soon as the undermost 
 side begins to whiten, turn the royans, and 
 two minutes after send them to table. Fresh 
 butter should be served separately. 
 
 RUBY UNDER SNOW. 
 
 Wash a quarter of a pint of tapioca, and let 
 it soak for three or four hours in three-quarters 
 of a pint of water, and with it the thin rind 
 and strained juice of half a lemon. Take out 
 the rind, and simmer the tapioca till it is clear, 
 then mix with it six table-spoonfuls of red- 
 currant jelly. Let it simmer three or four 
 minutes longer, and pour it into a large dish. 
 When it is quite cold and stiff, pile upon it a 
 little whipped cream, or, if preferred, the whites 
 of two eggs beaten till firm, and sweetened and 
 flavoured with lemon-rind. This is a pretty 
 and wholesome dish for a juvenile party. It 
 should be made the day before it is wanted. 
 If the whites of eggs are used they should be 
 laid on at the last moment. 
 
 RUDD, OR RED-EYE. 
 
 This fish is found in lakes, slow rivers, and 
 fens in England and many parts of the Conti- 
 nent. It is shorter and deeper than the roach, 
 which it resembles, and its flavour is preferred 
 by many. It should be cooked in the same 
 way as Roach. Probable cost, uncertain. 
 
 RUFFS AND REEVES. 
 
 These little birds, of which the ruff is the 
 male and the reeve is the female, take their 
 name from the long feathers which stand round 
 the neck of the male bird, in appearance slightly 
 resembling the rufis worn by ladies. Ruffs are 
 birds of passage, and are caught in traps, and 
 when fattened on meal and milk are esteemed a 
 great delicacy. They should not be drawn, and 
 should be trussed like woodcock. To prepare 
 them, run a small skewer through the thighs 
 and pinions, lay over the bodies of the birds a 
 slice of fat bacon and a vine-leaf, run them 
 on a lark-spit, and put them down before a 
 
RUF 
 
 732 
 
 RUM 
 
 clear fire. Baste well with butter, and put a 
 slice of toast in the tin under the birds to 
 receive the drippings from the trail. When 
 done enough, dish thejn on the same toast with 
 a little brown gravy tinder them, and more in 
 a tureen. Garnish the dish with water-cress, 
 and send bread sauce to table. Time to roast 
 the birds, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable 
 cost, uncertain, ruffs being seldom ofi'ered for 
 sale. 
 
 RUFF, FATTENING OF THE. 
 
 " The ruff is taken for the table in spring, but 
 young birds taken in autumn are much to be 
 preferred. They are often fattened after being 
 taken, and are fed on bread and milk, with 
 bruised hemp-seed. After being fattened they 
 are sent to market. They feed readily when 
 •quite newly caught, and fight desperately for 
 their food, unless supplied in separate dishes, 
 which is therefore the regular practice of the 
 feeders, who find it also advantageous to keep 
 them in darkened apartments. The ruff is 
 gradually becoming scarcer in England, owing 
 to the destruction of its favourite haunts, the 
 fens, by drainage." 
 
 RUFF, OR POPE. 
 
 This fish spawns in April, and is in season all 
 the year. Its excellence as a fish for the table 
 excited the enthusiasm of Dr. Kitchener. The 
 ruff is thus alluded to in Izaak Walton's famous 
 " Compleat Angler." " There is also another fish 
 called a pope, and by some a ruff, a fish that is 
 not known to be in some rivers. He is much 
 like the perch for hi? shape, and taken to be 
 better than the perch, but will not grow to be 
 bigger than a gudgeon ; he is an excellent fish ; 
 no fish that swims is of a pleasanter taste, and 
 he is also excellent to enter a young angler, for 
 he is a greedy biter, and they will usually lie 
 abundance of them together, in one reserved 
 place where the water is deep and runs quietly ; 
 and an easy angler, if he has found where they 
 
 . lie, may catch forty or fifty, or sometimes twice 
 as many, at a standing." 
 RUM. 
 
 This well-known and much esteemed spirit- 
 uous liquor is imported into this country from 
 the West Indies, of which it is one of the staple 
 products. It is obtained by means of fermen- 
 
 . tation and distillation from molasses, the refuse 
 of the cane-juice, and portions of the cane, after 
 the sugar has been extracted. The flavour and 
 taste peculiar to rum are derived from the 
 essential oils carried over in distillation. When 
 the distillation has been carelessly performed, 
 the spirit contains so large a quantity of the 
 grosser and less volatile part of the oil as to 
 be unfit for use till it has attained a consider- 
 able age. When it is well rectified it mellows 
 much sooner. Eum of a brownish transparent 
 colour, smooth oily taste, strong body and con- 
 sistency, good age, and well kept, is the best. 
 That which is clear and limpid, and has a hot 
 pungent taste, is either too new or mixed with 
 other spirits. Jamaica rum is the first in point 
 of quality; the Leeward Island rum, as it is 
 called, being always inferior to it in flavour, 
 strength, and value. The price of the latter is 
 ■usually twenty per cent, below that of the 
 former. We impost almost all our rum in 
 
 puncheons containing from eighty-four to ninety 
 gallons each. It is customary, in some of the 
 West India islands, to put spiced pineapples in 
 puncheons of rum; this gives the spirit the 
 flavour of the fruit; and hence the designation 
 pineapple rum. Rum is also produced in and 
 imported from the Mauritius and the East 
 Indies. But that of the latter is more nearly 
 allied to arrack than to genuine rum. Eum is 
 said to be much adulterated by the retail dealers 
 in England, sometimes with corn spirit; but if 
 done with molasses spirit, the tastes of both 
 are so nearly allied that the cheat is not easily 
 discovered. Bum often has a deep red colour, 
 which is acquired from molasses or caramel 
 added for the purpose, and not from the wood 
 of the casks, as is commonly supposed. Unlike 
 other spirits, rum tends to cause perspiration. 
 It is greatly improved by age, and when very old 
 is often highly prized. At a sale in Carlisle 
 in 1865, rum known to be a hundred and forty 
 years old sold for three guineas a bottle. 
 
 RUM-AND-MILK. 
 
 Bum-and-milk, the first thing in. the morning 
 or else twice a day, is strongly recommended 
 as of the greatest service in cases of consump- 
 tion. It is often almost as efficacious as cod- 
 liver oil. It may be taken with bread and 
 butter, as a meal, at breakfast and tea, if these 
 times are preferred by the invalid. The usual 
 quantities at each period are a tumblerful of 
 rich milk, a table-spoonful of old rum, and a 
 little sugar. 
 
 RUM BLANCMANGE. 
 
 Rub the yellow rind of two fresh lemons upon 
 eight good-sized lumps of sugar. Soak an ounce 
 of gelatine in a, cupful of milk, and when it is 
 swollen pour upon it a pint of boiling milk or 
 cream, or half milk and half cream. Stir it 
 until the gelatine is dissolved, then add the 
 lemon-flRvoured sugar and the well-beaten yolks 
 of five or more eggs mixed with an additional 
 half pint of milk or cream. Stir the blanc- 
 mange over the fire till it is quite hot, let it 
 cool a little, then put with it four table-spoon- 
 fuls of rum, and a pinch of saffron dissolved in 
 a table-spoonful of water, and continue stirring 
 till it is almost cold. Pour it into a damp 
 mould, and put it in a cool place till stiff. 
 Squeeze the strained juice of a lemon over it 
 before sending it to table. Time to prepare, 
 about one hour. Probable cost, if made with 
 milk. Is. 8d., exclusive of the rum. SufScient 
 for a quart mould. 
 RUM CAKE. 
 
 Take the yolks of twelve eg^s, beat them up, 
 and add three-quarters of a pint of cream, the 
 same quantity of rum, and sugar to taste; add 
 also the grated peel of a lemon. Butter a tin, 
 pour the mixture in, and bake it till it is dry 
 at the top ; the cake may be iced or only strewn 
 with sifted sugar, and ornamented with pre- 
 served cherries, etc., or whipped cream may be 
 laid on the top. 
 
 RUMFORD'S PLAIN INDIAN PUDDING. 
 
 "This pudding," says Count Eumford in his 
 " Essay on Food," " which was allowed by com- 
 petent judges who tasted it to be as good 
 as they had ever eaten, was composed, and 
 
RUM 
 
 733 
 
 RUM 
 
 prepared in the following manner. Three pounds 
 of Indian meal (from which the bran had been 
 separated by sifting it in a common hair sieve) 
 were put into a large bowl, and five pints of 
 boiling water were put to it, and the whole well 
 stirred together ; three-quarters of a pound of 
 molasses and one ounce of salt were then added 
 to it, and these being well mixed, by stirring 
 them with the other ingredients, the pudding 
 was poured into a fit bag, and the bag being 
 tied up (an empty space being left in the bag in 
 tying it, equal to about one-sixth of its contents, 
 for giving room to the pudding to swell), this 
 pudding was put into a kettle of boiling water, 
 and was boiled six hours without intermission; 
 the loss of water in the kettle by evaporation 
 during this time being frequently replaced with 
 boiling water from another kettle. The pud- 
 ding, upon being taken out of the bag, weighed 
 ten pounds and one ounce; and it w,as found 
 to be perfectly done, not having the smallest 
 remains of that raw taste so disagreeable to 
 all palates, and particularly to those who are 
 not used to it, which always predominates in 
 dishes prepared of Indian meal when they are 
 not sufficiently cooked." 
 
 RUM ICE. 
 
 Eub the rind of a large fresh lemon upon three 
 or four lumps of sugar till all the yellow part 
 is taken off, and add as much sugar as will make 
 up the weight to three-quarters of a pound. 
 Put this into a saucepan with a pint of cold 
 water and a table-spoonful of strained lemon- 
 juice. Stir the syrup over the fire, and when 
 the sugar is dissolved, add gradually the whites 
 of three eggs beaten till firm. Pour the pre- 
 paration out before it begins to simmer, let it 
 cool, add a quarter of a pint of old Jamaica 
 rum, freeze in the usual way, and serve in 
 glasses. 
 
 RUM JELLY. 
 
 Boil a pound of sugar to a clear syrup. Mix 
 with this two ounces of clarified isinglass or 
 gelatine, and add the juice of a lemon and a 
 wine-glassful of fine old Jamaica rum. Pour 
 the jelly into a damp mould, set it in ice or in 
 a cool place till it is stiff, then turn it out, and 
 serve. 
 
 RUM OMELET. 
 
 Beat three eggs in a bowl, and add a very 
 small pinch of salt, a tea-spoonful of finely- 
 powdered sugar, a slice of butter, and a table- 
 spoonful of rum. Fry the omelet in the usual 
 way. Lay it on a hot dish, and pour round it 
 half a tumblerful of rum which has been 
 warmed in a saucepan. Set light to this, and 
 take the omelet to table with the flames rising 
 round it. Sufiicient for one or two persons. 
 
 RUM PUDDING. 
 
 Grate three ounces of stale bread-crumbs, and 
 pour over them as much rum as will moisten 
 them. When they are well soaked, beat them 
 Tjp with six ounces of sugar, a little grated nut- 
 meg, and first the yolks, and afterwards the 
 well-whisked whites, of four . eggs. Pour the 
 mixture into a buttered mould, and let it steam 
 until done enough. Turn it upon a hot dish, 
 pour half a tumblerful of rum over it, set light 
 to this, and serve immediately. Time to steam 
 
 the pudding, one hour. Probable cost, 8d,, 
 exclusive of the rum. Sufiicient for three 
 persons. 
 
 RUM SHRUB. 
 
 This is a liquor of which rum forms the alco- 
 holic base; the other materials are sugar, lime 
 or lemon-juice, and the rind of these fruits 
 added to give flavour. There are many recipes 
 for the manufacture of rum shrub, almost every 
 maker having his own, which he holds to be the 
 best ever invented. 
 
 RUM SHRUB, TO MAKE. 
 
 To give one method of making rum shrub. 
 Pour a pint of cold water over the rinds of two 
 or three Seville oranges, and let them infuse 
 for a day or two. Strain the liqueur, and boil 
 it with two pounds ■ of loaf sugar to syrup. 
 Add a pint of strained Seville orange-juice and 
 three pints of Jamaica rum. Filter the prepara- 
 tion, and bottle for use. Time, three days. 
 
 RUMP, ROASTED. 
 
 Take as much as may be wanted from the 
 chump end, tie it evenly, and cook as a sirloin. 
 It can be boned and rolled, but will take much 
 longer. It requires a steady fire, lots of bast- 
 ing, and must be from a prime animal. The 
 longer it can hang the more tender it will be. 
 Probable cost. Is. per pound. 
 
 RUMP STEAK. 
 
 Eump steak is at its best from September to 
 March, and should be cut from meat that has 
 been hung three or four days to make it tender, 
 though it should not be cut from the rump until 
 it is required. It is a prime part of the meat, 
 and when good is superior to any other in 
 tenderness and delicacy of flavour. French 
 cooks almost always prefer steaks from the fillet 
 or inside of the sirloin, but many good judges 
 consider these steaks are insipid and flavourless 
 compared with good rump steak. Rump steak 
 may be cooked in several different ways, the 
 recipes for which will be found under Beep. 
 As it always fetches a high price, other steak, 
 such as buttock or chuck steak, may be advan- 
 tageously used for stewing, or for pies, and if 
 carefully cut will give entire satisfaction. It 
 is worth knowing that many butchers sell the 
 first cut of the rump for 2d. or 3d. less per 
 pound than the other portions, and if this is 
 washed quickly, and dried, it is quite as good 
 as the rest. Probable cost. Is. 2d. to Is. 6d. 
 per pound. 
 
 RUMP STEAK, BAKED, WITH ONIONS. 
 
 Take about two pounds of well-hung tender 
 steak, and fry it in hot fat till it is lightly and 
 equally browned. Take it up, put it in an 
 earthenware dish which has a closely-fitting 
 lid, and pour over it a pint of stock made from- 
 bjOUes. Add two moderate-sized onions which 
 have been boiled till tender, two table-spoonfuls 
 of Harvey's sauce or walnut ketchup, two 
 cloves, and a little salt and cayenne. Cover 
 the dish, and bake the steak gently till done 
 enough. Take it up, lay round it an onion, 
 sliced, divided into rings, and fried ; and strain 
 over it the gravy in -the baking-dish. Serve very 
 hot. Time to bake, two hours. Probable cost, 
 about 38. 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
RUM 
 
 134: 
 
 RUM 
 
 RUMP STEAK, BROILED. 
 
 {See Beef Steak, Hituf.) 
 
 RUMP STEAK, BROILED, ACCOMPANIMENTS 
 TO. 
 
 Many epicures prefer broiled steak plain, 
 that is, dredged lightly with pepper before 
 it is broiled, and served on a hot dish with fresh 
 butter under and over it. As a variety to 
 flavour it, half a lemon may be squeezed over 
 the steak, and a table-spoonful of Harvey's 
 sauce poured on it, or a little maitre d'hotel 
 or anchovy butter may be rubbed over it as 
 soon as it is done, or fried onion or fried pota- 
 toes may be used to garnish the dish, or oyster, 
 mushroom, tomato, or onion sauce may be 
 served in a tureen, or stewed cucumbers may be 
 sent to table separately. 
 
 RUMP STEAK, BROILED, WITH ONION GRAVY. 
 
 Put two Spanish onions, sliced, into a sauce- 
 pan with half a table-spoonful of stock or water. 
 Xet them stew gently until the liquor has boiled 
 away and they are a little coloured, then pour 
 over them half a pint of stock and a seasoning 
 of pepper and salt, and simmer till tender. 
 Lift them out of the gravy, mince finely, then 
 return them to the gravy. Add a table-spoon- 
 ful of mushroom ketchup, and boil the gravy for 
 five minutes. Pour the gravy on a hot dish, lay 
 a broiled steak upon it (see Beet Steak, Rtjmp), 
 and serve hot. Time to make the gravy, about 
 half an hour. 
 
 RUMP STEAK, NEAPOLITAN (excellent). 
 
 Take two pounds of tender rump steak an 
 inch and a half thick. Fry it in hot fat until it 
 is brightly and equally browned, take it up, 
 and in the same fat fry two thinly-sliced onions. 
 Put the steak into an earthen dish, lay the 
 onions upon it, pour over as much broth as 
 will barely cover them, and add two pickled 
 gherkins finely minced, two sticks of celery, 
 four cloves, a little salt and cayenne, and a 
 glassful of port or claret. Cover the pan 
 closely, and put it in a moderately-heated oven 
 till the steak is half coctked, then add a turnip 
 and a carrot cut in halves. When these are 
 sufficiently cooked, lift out the steak, lay it 
 on a hot dish, strain the gravy, over it, cut the 
 carrot and turnip into dice, and sprinkle them 
 upon it. Serve immediately. THme to bake 
 the steak, two hours and a half. Probable 
 cost, 3s. 8d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. 
 
 RUMP STEAK, PIQUANT SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Put a wine-glassful of ale into a small sauce- 
 pan, with a wine-glassful of claret, a wine-glass- 
 ful of ketchup or Harvey's sauce, a tea-spoonful 
 of garlic vinegar, and an ounce of fresh butter. 
 Stir the mixture over the fire till it is 
 thoroughly heated, and serve poured hot upon 
 the steak. Time, five or six minutes. 
 
 RUMP STEAK PUDDING. 
 
 Cut about two pounds of tender rump steak 
 into pieces an inch and a half square, and 
 season these with a dessert-spoonful of salt and 
 a tea^spoonful of pepper. Line a shallow, 
 thick-rimmed pudding-basin, well buttered, 
 with good suet crust half an inch thick, and 
 leave about an inch of pastry over the edge. 
 
 Lay in the steak, and add a quarter of a 
 pint of stock, gravy, or water. Cover the meat 
 with a circular piece of pastry, moisten the 
 edge of the pastry that was left over, press 
 it closely, and tie the basin rather loosely in a 
 cloth which has been wrung out of boiling 
 water and floured. Plunge the pudding into 
 boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly until 
 done enough. Either serve it in the basin, 
 round which a napkin has been tied, or turn it 
 carefully upon a hot dish, after allowing it to 
 stand five minutes. If liked, a circular piece of 
 pastry may be cut out of the top of the pudding 
 and a slice of butter put into it to enrich the 
 gravy. This pudding will be very much im- 
 proved if half a pound of ox kidney cut up 
 small, a dozen and a half of oysters, and six or 
 eight larks, are put into it with the beef. Time 
 to boil, four to five hours. Probable cost, when 
 made with steak only, 3s. lOd. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 
 RUMP STEAK, SAVOURY. 
 
 Cut the rump steak three-quarters of an inch 
 thick, trim it neatly, and brush it over with oil. 
 Broil as already directed in the recipe Beef 
 Steak, Rump. Have ready two finely-minced 
 shallots and the strained juice of a lemon. 
 Lay the steak on the dish, .pour the juice over, 
 and sprinkle the minced shallot upon it. Serve 
 very hot, with fried potatoes round the dish. 
 
 RUMP STEAKS, GRAVY FOR. 
 
 Pour the fat out of the pan, dredge the pan 
 with flour, let it brown a little, and then put 
 into it one ounce of butter; rub and mix the 
 butter and flour well together in the pan, and 
 when it is a little brown reduce it to the thick- 
 ness of cream, by mixing gradually with it a 
 little boiling water, a table-spoonful of ketchup, 
 and half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and salt to 
 taste; keep stirring the sauce well till it boils 
 for a minute or two, and then pour it over the 
 steaks through a sieve. The steaks may be 
 garnished with a few sprigs of parsley, or with 
 scraped horse-radish : they are mostly served up 
 without any other sauce than the above, but 
 seme families eat them with oyster or mush- 
 room sauce. 
 
 RUMP STEAK, STEWED. 
 
 No. 1. — Take a slice of tender rump steak an 
 inch and a half thick. Fry this in hot fat till 
 it is equally and lightly browned. Put it into 
 a saucepan, pour over it as much stock or water 
 as will cover it, and add an onion stuck with 
 six cloves, and a little pepper and salt. Cover 
 the saucepan closely, and let its contents stew 
 as gently as possible for three hours. Take it 
 up, strain the gravy, thicken with flour or roux, 
 and add a spoonful of walnut or mushroom ket- 
 chup, if necessary. Serve on a hot dish, and 
 sprinkle over it some pickled cucumber or 
 pickled gherkins finely minced. No. 2. — Take 
 a slice of tender rump steak three-quarters of 
 an inch thick. Fry this in butter or hot fat 
 till it is lightly browned, and pour over it as 
 much good gravy or stock as will barely cover 
 it. Add a tea-spoonful of freshly-made mus- 
 tard, a little pepper and salt, and a pinch of 
 cayenne. Let the sauce boil up quickly, then 
 put the pan at the side of the fire, and let its 
 
RUM 
 
 735 
 
 RUS 
 
 contents simmer as gently as possible for one 
 hour or more. Pry in hot fat till lightly 
 browned twelve button mushrooms, twelve 
 small onions, a carrot, a turnip, and two or 
 three sticks of celery, all cut small. Put these 
 into the saucepan, and let all continue simmer- 
 ing till the vegetables are tender. Thicken the 
 gravy with a spoonful of brown thickening; 
 when it is smooth, add a table-spoonful of Wor- 
 cester sauce, a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce, 
 the strained juice of a lemon, and a glassful of 
 port or claret. Serve very hot. Probable cost, 
 rump steak. Is. 4d. to Is. 6d. per pound. 
 
 RUMP STEAK, STEWED, WITH ONIONS. 
 
 Take a pound of tender rump steak, and 
 dredge pepper and a little salt over it. Butter 
 very thickly a saucepan which has a tightly-fit- 
 ting lid ; or, if preferred, rub it over with good 
 beef dripping. Lay the steak in it, add two 
 large Spanish onions thinly sliced, and an ounce 
 of butter or dripping. Cover the saucepan 
 closely, and put it by the side of the fire to 
 steam as gently as possible for two hours and a 
 half. Take up the steak, lay it upon a dish, 
 put the onions upon it, and serve immediately. 
 It will be found that sufficient moisture has 
 exuded from the onions to make gravy, although 
 no liquor was put into the pan. If tomatoes 
 are used instead of onions, the dripping will 
 not be needed. Time, two hours and a half. 
 
 RUMP STEAK, STEWED, WITH OYSTERS. 
 
 Take a slice of rump steak three-quarters of 
 an inch thick, weighing about two and a quarter 
 pounds. Rub this well on both sides with a 
 savoury mixture made of minced onions, three 
 salt-spoonfuls of salt, and as much summer 
 savoury as will lie on a sixpence, then fry it in 
 hot fat till lightly browned. Lay it in a sauce- 
 pan with three-quarters of a pint of water, and 
 add a clove, two allspice, a blade of mace, and 
 the liquor from two dozen oysters. Cover the 
 saucepan closely, and let the steak simmer 
 gently till tender. Take out the meat, strain the 
 gravy, and thicken with a little brown thicken- 
 ing or flour and butter. Let it boil till smooth. 
 Put back the steak and the oysters bearded, let 
 them simmer for five minutes, and then serve. 
 They must on no account boil. Time, one and 
 a half to two hours. Probable cost, rump steak. 
 Is. 4d. to Is. 6d. per pound. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. 
 RUMP STEAK, STEWED, WITH PIQUANT SAUCE. 
 
 Take a pound and a half of tender steak an 
 inch thick, and fry this in hot fat till it is 
 lightly and equally browned. Take it up, put 
 it into a saucepan which has been twice rubbed 
 across with garlic, and pour over it a quarter 
 of a pint of good gravy. Add the strained 
 juice of a lemon, a tea-spoonful of grated 
 horse-radish, a tea^spoonful of finely-minced 
 shallot, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, a 
 tea-spoonful of moist-sugar, half a tea-spoonful 
 of mixed mustard, and a little pepper and salt. 
 Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents 
 stew gently for an hour. Peel and mince finely 
 two small mushrooms, and a truffle, if it can be 
 had. If not, use four mushrooms. Simmer 
 them quickly in two table-spoonfuls of yinepfar 
 for ten minutes. Add them to the steak, sim- 
 mer all gently together for half an hour longer. 
 
 and serve. Time, nearly two hours. Probable 
 cost, rump steak. Is. 4d. to Is. 6d. per pound. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 RUMP STEAK, STUFFED. 
 
 Take two pounds of well-hung steak cut in 
 one piece, and three-quarters of an inch thick. 
 Lay it on a table, and spread upon it a quarter 
 of a pint of good veal stuffing. EoU it round, 
 and tie it with twine, fastening the ends se- 
 curely. Dissolve a table-spoonful of bacon fat 
 in a saucepan, put in the rolled steak, and turn 
 it about till it is eqtially browned all over. 
 Pour upon it three-quarters of a pint of stock or 
 water, cover the saucepan closely, and let the 
 steak stew gently until tender. Lay the meat 
 in a hot dish, and remove the twine. Thicken 
 the gravy, pour it over the beef, and serve very 
 hot. Time to stew the steak, two hours. Prob- 
 able cost, rump steak. Is. 4d. to Is. 6d. per 
 pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 RUSK CAKE. 
 
 Crush a quarter of a pound of rusks to pow- 
 der, and pass them through a colander. Beat 
 the yolks of seven eggs till light, and add six 
 ounces of powdered white sugar, a pinch of 
 powdered cinnamon, three cloves powdered, and 
 three ounces of blanched and pounded almonds. 
 Beat the ingredients briskly together for twenty 
 minutes. Add the powdered rusks, a table- 
 spoonful of strained lemon-juice, and, lastly, 
 the whites of all the eggs whisked to a firm 
 froth. Beat the mixture thoroughly, put it 
 into a buttered mould, and bake immediately. 
 In order to ascertain whether or not the cake 
 is done enough, try it with a skewer in the 
 ordinary way, but do not do this until the cake 
 looks firm, as it will be all the nicer if it is 
 not moved about during the baking. Probable 
 cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 RUSK PUDDING. 
 
 Take three ounces of thin rusks. Spread a little 
 jam between every two, and press them. closely 
 together. Arrange them neatly in a buttered 
 mould, and pour over them a custard made with 
 a pint of milk (or half milk and half cream), 
 the yolks of four eggs, and a little sugar and 
 flavouring. Let the rusks soak for an hour, then 
 steam the pudding, and when done enough serve 
 on a hot dish with wine or arrowroot sauce 
 poured round it. Time to steam the pudding, 
 about two hours. Probable cost, if made wifli 
 milk. Is. 2d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 RUSK PUDDING (another way). 
 
 Sweeten a pint of milk, and flavour it with 
 lemon-rind or cinnamon. Arrange three or four 
 rusks in a. buttered basin, and pour the milk 
 over them ; let them soak for half an hour. 
 Whisk two eggs, and beat them up with the 
 rusks; then add a pinch of salt and a slice of 
 fresh butter. Lay a buttered paper over the 
 basin, which must be quite full, tie it in a 
 'floured cloth, and plunge it into fast-boiling 
 water. Boil it quickly until done enough. 
 Move it about two or three times during the 
 first half of boiling. When done enough, turn 
 it upon a hot dish, and serve with sweet sauce 
 or wine sauce. If liked, candied peel, stoned 
 raisins, or washed currants may be mixed with 
 the pudding. T^me to boil, an hour and a half. 
 
RUS 
 
 73G 
 
 RUS 
 
 Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 RUSKS. 
 
 No. 1. — Put two pounds of flour into a bowl, 
 and mix with it a pincb of salt and six ounces 
 of powdered sugar (if the rusks are intended 
 for cheese the sugar should be omitted). Dis- 
 solve four ounces of butter in half a pint of hot 
 milk. Add six well-beaten eggs, and two table- 
 spoonfuls of yeast, and with this liquor work 
 the flour into a smooth dough. Cover with a 
 cloth, and set it in a warm place to rise. When 
 light knead it, and divide into small cakes the 
 size of an orange. Lay these closely together 
 in a buttered pan, and bake in a brisk oven. 
 When done enough, take them out, break them 
 in halves, and place them again in the oven to 
 get crisp on the other side. When cold keep 
 them closely packed in tin canisters. Time to 
 bake, altogether about half an hour. No. 2. — 
 Warm half a pint of milk, and stir into it two 
 table-spoonfuls of good yeast. Put a pound of 
 flour into a bowl, and mix with it a pinch of 
 salt and three table-spoonfuls of powdered 
 sugar. Make a hollow in the flour, but not so 
 deep as to lay bare the bottom of the bowl, 
 and stir in the yeast and milk to make a thin 
 batter. Shred a quarter of a pound of butter 
 into the flour, cover the bowl, and leave it in 
 a warm place until the batter rises in bubbles. 
 Work all lightly together until the dough no 
 longer sticks to the hand, then let it rise again 
 until the surface cracks. Divide the paste into 
 rolls six inches long and two broad, lay these 
 side by side on a, buttered tin, and set them 
 before the fire for a few minutes to rise. Bake 
 in a quick oven. When done enough, tear 
 them into halves, and put them again into 
 the oven till they are crisp. A table-spoonful 
 of aniseed may be worked into the rusks if 
 liked, and they will then be good for infants' 
 food. No. 3.— -Stir two ounces of butter iii half 
 a pint of warm milk until dissolved, add a 
 table-spoonful of yeast and two well-beaten 
 eggs. Put a pound of flour into a bowl, and 
 mix with it a heaped table-spoonful of pow- 
 dered sugar. Make a hole in the centre, pour 
 in the eggs and milk, and beat in as much 
 flour from the side as will make a thin batter. 
 Sprinkle a little flour over this, cover the bowl 
 with a cloth, and leave the preparation to rise 
 until the bubbles show themselves through the 
 flour ; this will be in about an hour. Knead the 
 whole into a firm dough, divide it into small 
 cakes a little larger than an egg, and let these 
 rise on the baking-tins for another hour. Bake 
 the cakes in a moderate oven, and when cool 
 put them in a warm screen to dry for half an 
 hour. Store in tins in a dry place. Time to 
 bake, about twenty minutes. 
 
 RUSKS (another way). 
 
 Take four eggs, half a pint each of new milk 
 and warm water, a quarter of a pound of melted- 
 butter, a quarter of a pound of sugar, and three 
 table-spoonfuls of yeast. Beat these ingre- 
 dients together with as much flour, added 
 gradually, as will make a very light paste. Let 
 it rise for half an hour before the fire, then add 
 a little more flour, and form into small cakes 
 •or loaves five or six inches wide; flatten the 
 
 cakes, bake them moderately, and when cold cut 
 them into slices the size of rusks, and put them 
 into the oven to brown a little. This is a nice 
 tea-cake to eat hot, or, with caraways, to eat 
 cold. 
 
 RUSKS (another way). 
 
 Take four pounds of flour, six ounces of but- 
 ter, four ounces of loaf sugar, and one quart 
 of milk. Ferment and make into a dough as 
 for buns, weigh it in pieces of one pound, one 
 pound and a half, or two pounds each, and 
 make these into long even rolls five or six inches 
 in circumference ; let them be quite straight 
 and square at the ends, place them on buttered 
 tins, so that they may not touch each other, 
 flatten them a little with your hand, and prove 
 them; when they are near proof, prick them 
 several times along the top with a fork or small 
 piece of wire, which will prevent the top crust 
 or rind coming off; bake them in a moderate 
 oven. When they are a day or two old cut 
 them crosswise into thin slices with a sharp 
 knife, lay them on clean tins close to each other, 
 and put them in a brisk oven; when they are 
 nicely coloured take them out, turn them on 
 the other side, put them in again, and when 
 coloured that side they are done, 
 
 RUSKS, BREAD, FOR BREAKFAST. 
 
 (See EirsKS, Plain.) 
 RUSKS MADE WITH SOUR CREAM. 
 
 Rub flve ounces of butter into a pound of 
 flour till it is as fine as oatmeal. Add a pinch 
 of salt, four table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, 
 and two ounces of candied peel finely shredded. 
 Work all into a smooth lithe dough with two 
 well-beaten eggs and a little more than half a 
 pint of thick sour cream. At the last moment 
 before baking the cakes add half a tea-spoonful 
 of carbonate of soda mixed with a tea-spoonful 
 of powdered sugar and a tea-spoonful of flour. 
 Divide the dough into two or three cakes, and 
 bake in a moderate oven. When done enough, 
 take them out of the oven, tear in halves, and 
 put them back again to ciisp. Of course, the 
 cream must not be in the least putrid when it is 
 used. Time to bake, forty to fifty minutes. 
 
 RUSKS, PLAIN. 
 
 Cut loaves of bread into slices, and bake them 
 in a slow oven to the proper colour. Or, take 
 hot rolls, divide them, and treat them in the 
 same manner. 
 
 RUSKS, SWEET. 
 
 Take a stale savoy cake, lemon cake, or pound 
 cake, cut it into slices, and divide these into 
 pieces about two inches square. Place these on 
 a baking-tin, and put them into a cool oven to 
 dry. When they are crisp and brown they are 
 done enough. Store in a tin box in a dry place. 
 
 RUSKS, TEA. 
 
 Dissolve half a tea-spoonful of saleratus and 
 a tea-spoonful of salt in a spoonful of hot water. 
 Stir this in with a pint of warm milk and one- 
 . eighth of a pint of brewer's yeast. Put the 
 liquor into a bowl, and stir into it as much fine 
 flour as will make a soft lithe dough. Knead 
 this thoroiighly, cover it with a cloth, and put 
 it in a warm place to rise. It will be light 
 in a couple of hours. Work into the dough 
 
RU8 
 
 737. 
 
 RU8 
 
 two table-spoonfuls of eugar and a quarter of 
 a pound of butter dissolved, but not hot. Flour 
 the hands thoroughly, and make the dough up 
 into small cakes the size of an orange, lay these 
 side by side in a buttered pan, brush the tops 
 over with milk, and bake in a quick oven. 
 Serve hot. Time to bake, half an hour. 
 
 RUSKS, WITH JAM. 
 
 Four a pint of boiling milk — sweetened and 
 flavoured — over five or six rusks in a pie-dish. 
 Let them soak for ten minutes, then beat them 
 lightly with a fork, and spread upon them a 
 layer of good jam. Pour upon this some cus- 
 tard made with a pint of milk, the yolks of 
 three eggs, and a little sugar and flavouring. 
 Leave the preparation till cold, sift powdered 
 sugar over it, or lay upon it the whites of the 
 eggs beaten to foam, and serve. Time, three- 
 quarters of an hour to prepare. Probable cost. 
 Is. 2d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 RUSSIAN CABBAGE SOUP. 
 
 This ancient Russian national dish — known 
 as schstchi — enjoys an immense reputation. 
 There are many ways of preparing it. The fol- 
 lowing is one of the best known. Take six or 
 eight white cabbages shredded, half a pound of 
 pearl barley, a quarter of a pound of butter, a 
 handful of salt, and two pounds of mutton, 
 with two quarts of Kvas or broth. The meat 
 having been salted for thirty-six hours is put 
 into a press, then cut into small pieces, and not 
 thrown into the pot till the cabbage has boiled. 
 Some artichokes cut .into four are added, and 
 when the whole is dished three spoonfuls of 
 thick cream are poured over it. The soup is 
 sometimes made with oil instead of butter, and 
 with fish instead of meat, usually during the 
 fasts. 
 
 RUSSIAN CAKES. 
 
 Make a batter by whisking together the 
 yolks of five eggs and a quarter of a pound of 
 powdered sugar. Add gradually three ounces 
 of dried flour, two ounces of blanched and 
 pounded almonds, a salt-spoonful of aniseed, 
 and, lastly, the whites of the eggs beaten to a 
 firm froth. Bake the batter in strong paper 
 cases nearly a foot long and a quarter of a foot 
 wide and deep. When they are sufficiently 
 baked, let them get cold, then cut them into 
 thin slices, and put them again into the oveli 
 till they are crisp. 
 
 RUSSIAN CHARLOTTE. 
 
 Trim off the ends of eighteen or twenty Savoy 
 biscuits perfectly straight, line the sides of a 
 straight dry mould with tHem, and take care 
 to join them perfectly, so that the contents of 
 the charlotte cannot escape, then ornament the 
 bottom of the mould with dried fruit or strips 
 of angelica. Soak a quarter of an ounce of 
 gelatine, and dissolve it in a quarter of a pint 
 of hot milk. Whilst it is cooling whip half a 
 pint of double cream till thick. Mix with it 
 a spoonful of sugar, a few drops of flavouring, 
 and the melted gelatine. Put the mixture into 
 the mould, a small quantity at a time, and let 
 it remain in. ice until it is firm. When it is 
 wanted, turn it out carefully upon a glass dish, 
 and serve. If the mould cannot easily be 
 turned out, plunge it into hot water for a 
 2 V 
 
 moment. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for six 
 or eight persons. 
 
 RUSSIAN CHARLOTTE (another way). 
 
 Take some biscuits a la cuill^re. These are 
 made the same as sponge biscuits, but, instead 
 of being baked in frames or in a form, they are 
 made into thin cakes about two inches wide 
 and four or five long; they are then baked 
 on wafer - paper, the top being glazed with 
 sugar sifted through a tamis. Th^ should be 
 baked in a very moderate oven. Line a form 
 at the sides and bottom with them, placing 
 them so close together that no space remains 
 between; fill the centre with a whipped cream 
 or a fromage* turn the charlotte out into a 
 dish, and send at once' to table. It should not 
 be kept long unless on ice. 
 
 RUSSIAN CHARLOTTE, WITH APPLES. 
 
 Take some biscuits a la cuillere (see the pre- 
 ceding recipe). Line a form with them, placing 
 them as close as possible, so that they may make 
 a complete case. Peel and slice a dozen apples, 
 and stew them in a little butter. Fill the form 
 with the apples, leaving a space in the centre. 
 Fill this space with a marmalade of apricots, 
 cherries, or quinces. Turn cut ^he charlotte on 
 a, dish, and serve cold. 
 
 RUSSIAN JELLY. 
 
 Take the remains of jelly of any kind, put 
 it in a bowl, and set it in a pan of hot water 
 until dissolved. Put the basin upon ice, and 
 whisk the jelly briskly till it begins to stiffen 
 and form a creamy froth, then pour it at once 
 into a mould set in ice. When it is firm turn 
 it out. When convenient, two or three kinds of 
 jelly appropriately fiavoured can be mixed to- 
 gether. 
 
 RUSSIAN MODE OF PRESERVING FRUIT. 
 
 A method of preserving fruit, in extensive 
 use in Bussia, consists in moistening quicklime 
 with water containing a, little creosote, so as 
 to cause it to fall into powder. The fruit is 
 packed in a wooden box, the bottom of which 
 is filled in to the depth of an inch with the lime. 
 The stratum is covered with a sheet of paper, 
 and the fruit laid upon this, each piece by it- 
 self, so that no one touches another. A sheet 
 of paper is placed on the top of this layer of 
 fruit and then a second layer of lime is sifted 
 in. In this way lime, paper, and fruit alter- 
 nately are put in till the box is filled. The 
 corners are then filled with finely-powdered char- 
 coal. By covering the box with a tightly-fitting 
 top, the fruit can, it is said, be kept fresh for at 
 least a year. 
 
 RUSSIAN POLONY. 
 
 Russian polony should be made of hard old 
 Belfast hams, which are easily procured, and 
 from beef, which is to be prepared in the follow- 
 ing manner. Take a small round, or part of a 
 large one, of ox beef, rub it all over with com- 
 mon salt, and scatter more under and over it; 
 so let it lie four days. Then wipe it, and put 
 it into the following pickle, in a deep pan : — 
 Water that has boiled . . 1 gallon 
 Common salt . . . .2 lbs. 
 Saltpetre .... 2 ounces 
 Bay salt .... 2 lbs. 
 
RUS 
 
 738 
 
 RYE 
 
 Let it lie fourteen days more covered with 
 pickle. Take it out and wipe it well ; tie string 
 round it, and hang it to smoke for twenty days 
 in a powerful smoke, turning it often; and 
 when taken from the chimney hang it in a 
 warm dry room three weeks longer to harden. 
 Take then an equal weight of ham and beef, 
 and cut off all the hard fat, which put aside. 
 Cut up the meat into small pieces, and leave no 
 skinny or fibrous parts in it. Beat each sepa- 
 rately in a mortar until very fine, and work it 
 into a stiff paste; being completely mixed, 
 add finely-ground black pepper, and then cut 
 your hard fat up into small squares the size of 
 a pea, and inix these generally and equally 
 throughout the mass. Dissolve gum-dragon so 
 that it is very thick, and work it amongst the 
 meat until the paste has become just soft 
 enough to stuff the skins, which must be the 
 largest you can get, and taken from large oxen. 
 Great care must be taken in filling them, so 
 that the meat may soon be united into a solid 
 mass, which can only be' effected by force; 
 the skins must then be well tied up, and hung 
 to dry; they must be smoked for a fortnight, 
 and kept three months in a dry closet. 
 
 RUSSIAN RICE PUDDING. 
 
 Make a syrup of a quarter of a pint of cold 
 water, and a quarter of a pound of lump sugar ; 
 boil them for a few minutes, skimming well, 
 then stir in a little essence of nutmeg or ginger 
 and a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and boil 
 for a few minutes more. Add three ounces of 
 rice that has been boiled in water and drained 
 and left to get cold, cover the pan, and leave 
 it for a quarter of an hour just below boiling 
 point. Add half a glass of good rum, and cover 
 again for ten minutes. Turn out in a deep. 
 glass dish to cool, and when cold serve with 
 any nice fruit. Arrange the fruit on top, and 
 pour some of the syrup round. Probable cost, 
 8d., without fruit. 
 
 RUSSIAN SALAD. 
 
 Cut some carrots, turnips, parsnips, and beet- 
 root into strips with a scoop. Add, if liked, 
 other vegetables, such as asparagus, peas, 
 French beans, gherkins, capers, scraped horse- 
 radish, etc., etc. Put the vegetables in a salad- 
 dish in layers, season each layer with mayon- 
 naise or Tartar sauce, and gradually diminish 
 the size of the layers, till the salad comes to a 
 point. Ornament with a border of aspic jelly, 
 picked prawns, olives, or gherkins, and garnish 
 the surface with small balls of caviare. 
 
 RUSSIAN SAUCE. 
 
 Dissolve a slice of butter in a small saucepan, 
 and add two ounces of lean uncooked ham cut 
 into dice, four minced shallots, a bay-leaf, a 
 sprig of thyme, a spoonful of chopped parsley, 
 two table-spoonfuls of scraped horse-radish, a 
 dessert-spoonful of sugar, a little pepper, salt, 
 and grated nutmeg, a wine-glassful of vinegar, 
 and the same of light wine. Cover the sauce- 
 pan closely, and let its contents steam gently 
 for a quarter of an hour. Add half a pint of 
 good white sauce and the yolks of four eggs. 
 Stir the sauce over the fire till it begins to 
 thicken, and strain through a sieve for use. 
 The sauce must not boil after the eggs are 
 
 added, asd care must be taken not to put them 
 into it until it is partially cooled. Time, about 
 forty minutes to prepare the^ sauce. 
 
 RUSSIAN SAUCE (another way). 
 
 Take four spoonfuls of. grated, horse-radish; 
 two tea-spoonfuls of nia^ mustard, a salt- 
 spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of sugar, and 
 as much vine^far as will just cover the ingre- 
 dients. This IS' a good' sauce for all kinds of 
 cold meat, and when added to melted butter 
 makes a good fish sauce. 
 
 RUSSIAN SOUP. 
 
 Take about two quarts of good brown soup 
 nicely flavoured, and pour this,, when ready for 
 serving, into the tureen over three ounces of 
 cooked ham finely shredded, and some small 
 sausages already fripd and drained thoroughly 
 from fat. The soup may be made as follows, 
 Chop two Spanish onions, and mix with them 
 the whole heart of a cabbage finely shredded. 
 Pry the mixture in a little butter till the vege- 
 tables are lightly browned, dredge two ounces 
 of flour over them, and moisten the paste with 
 about three pints of good stock. Add a little 
 pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg; let the soup 
 boil once, then draw the saucepan to the side, 
 and let its contents simmer for half an hour or 
 more, carefully removing the scum as it rises. 
 Add a glassful of light wine and a spoonful 
 of coarsely-shredded tarragon or chervil, and 
 the soup will be ready for serving. Time, about 
 an hour. Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 RUSSIAN WALNUT CAKE. 
 
 Beat the yolks of ten eggs to a froth with one 
 pound of sifted sugar; peel and pound two 
 pounds of walnuts, and add them to the eggs, 
 then add the grated rind of a lemon. Beat the 
 whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and add 
 them lastly to the mixture. Butter a cake-tin, 
 and strew over the butter three-quarters of a 
 tea-cupful of manna (which can be bought by 
 the ounce at the chemist's or the Civil Service 
 Stores); pour in the mixture, and bake for 
 about an hour in a moderately hot oven. 
 Leave the cake in the tin till it is cold. Prob- 
 able cost, 2s. 6d. 
 
 RUTHVEN CAKE. 
 
 Heat three pints of milk, and stir into this, 
 until dissolved, eight ounces of fresh butter. 
 Let the liquor cool, then mix with it a quarter 
 of a stone of flour, six ounces of powdered and 
 sifted loaf sugar, the thin rind of two lemons 
 finely minced, a pinch of powdered cinnamon, 
 a pound of pickea,and dried currants, six well- 
 beaten eggs, and three large spoonfuls of fresh 
 yeast. Knead the mixture thoroughly to a 
 smooth dough. Cover the bowl with a cloth, 
 and set it in a warm place for the paste to rise. 
 It will take about three hours. Put the dough 
 into buttered tins, and bake these in a well- 
 heated oven. Time to bake, an hour and a half. 
 Probable cost. Is. 7d. per cake. Sufficient for 
 two good-sized cakes. 
 
 RYE. 
 
 This species of grain is 'iaach more hardy but 
 incalculably less valuable in every respect than 
 wheat. It has been cultivated from time im- 
 memorial, and is supposed to be a native of the 
 
RYE 
 
 739 
 
 SAC 
 
 , Caspian Caucasian desert. In Britain it is very 
 little used as an article of food compared with 
 Tvheat ani oats, tiuugh in the North of Europe 
 and in Flanders it forms a principal article of 
 human subsistence, but generally mixed with 
 wheat, and sometimes also with barley. 
 
 The cultivation of rye does not extend so far 
 north as that of barley, but it grows in regions 
 too cold for wheat, and on soils too poor and 
 Sandy for any other grain. Its ripening can 
 also be more confidently depended on in cold 
 legions than that of any other grain. But rye, 
 it should be observed, succeeds best, and is most 
 productive, in a climate where wheat ripens. 
 It delights in sandy soil. 
 
 RYE AND INDIAN MEAL, BREAD OF. 
 
 "The proportions of rye and cornmeal used," 
 says an American writer, " may be varied ac- 
 cording to the taste. If the largest proportion 
 of rye is used, make the dough stiff; if the 
 largest proportion of cornmeal, make the 
 dough softer. The greater the proportion of 
 cornmeal, the longer the bread rec^uires baking. 
 The best way to mix the dough is to put the 
 cornmeal into a glazed earthen pan, sprinkle ' 
 salt over it, pour on boiling water, work it till 
 thoroughly wet,i and when about milk-warm 
 add the rye-flour with the yeast, and as much 
 more warm, but not hot, water as is required. 
 Work the dough until stiff, but not so stiff as 
 flovir dough. Put it then into a deep greased 
 pan, put your hand in warm water, and pat 
 down the top, set it to rise in a warm place by 
 the stove in winter, but in the sun in summer. 
 When it begins to crack on the top, which 
 will be in an hour to an hour and a half, put 
 in a well-heated oven. To make the bread two- 
 thirds of cornmeal, take four quarts of sifted 
 cornmeal, sprinkle a table-spoonful of salt 
 over it, and pour over it two quarts of boiling 
 water, as directed above; when lukewarm add 
 two quarts of rye-meal, half a pint of lively 
 yeast mixed in a pint of warm water ; add more 
 water if necessary. Bake two or three hours. 
 This makes a loaf weighing seven or eight 
 pounds." Probable cost, 9d. 
 
 RYE BATTER CAKES. 
 
 Mix as much lukewarm milk with a pint of 
 lye-meal as will make a thin batter. Beat this 
 well, add a little salt and a quarter of a pint 
 of home-made yeast. Let the dough rise, then 
 bake the cakes on a griddle. Or take from the 
 risen dough made for rye bread as much as 
 will make a small loaf. Work into this a 
 quarter of a pound of good dripping or butter, 
 make the dough into a flat cake an inch thick, 
 and bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, 
 -twenty minutes or more. 
 
 RYE BREAD. 
 
 Late in the evening, pour a quart of warm 
 water into a large bowl, and stir into this as 
 much flour as will make a smooth batter, and 
 half a pint of yeast. Cover the bowl with a 
 cloth, set it in a warm place, and let the sponge 
 rise. In' the morning, put into another bowl 
 three pounds and a half of rye-flour. Scoop a 
 lollow in the centre, pour in the sponge, 
 add a spoonful of salt and a tea-spoonful of 
 -baiking-powder, and knead the dough thoroughly 
 
 till it no longer sticks to the bowl and the 
 hands. In kneading it, add a little more warm 
 water if necessary. Cover the bowl, and let 
 the dough rise for three hours, or till it is light ; 
 make it up into loaves, and bake these m a 
 quick oven. Time to bake, three-quarters of 
 an hour to one hour, according to the size of 
 the loaves. 
 
 RYE DROP CAKES. 
 
 Mix together a quart of milk, two eggs well 
 beaten, a piece of butter as large as an egg, 
 one tea-spoonful of soda,, two tea-spoonfuls of 
 cream of tartar, half a cupful of white sugar, 
 and enough rye-meal to make a thick batter. 
 Bake for half an hour. 
 
 SABAJONE, OR SABAILLON. 
 
 Mix eight very fresh yolka of eggs with three 
 glasses of Madeira or sherry, sugar to taste, 
 and a little cinnamon. Put all into a sauce- 
 pan over a quick fire ; do not let it boil, but 
 beat it constantly till it rises and is of the con- 
 sistency of thick cream. This is an excellent 
 pudding sauce, but in Italy it is poured into 
 glasses and served at balls, etc., as a custard. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 
 
 sabotiIre. 
 
 " An apparatus for making ices : it is com- 
 posed of two principal parts — a pail, which is 
 indented towards the 'top and covered, and the 
 sabotiere, or inner vessel, slightly conical, 
 which is inserted in the pail, on which it rests 
 by a projecting border or rim; this vessel is 
 closed at the bottom like a cup, and open at 
 the top to admit the creams to be iced. The 
 freezing mixture is turned into the pail, and 
 the creams to be iced into the inner vessel; 
 its cover is then fastened by the hook, and the 
 vessel is set into the pail among the freezing 
 liquid ; then taking the whole by the handle of 
 the sabotiere, an alternate motion of rotation 
 is given to it for about a quarter of an hour, 
 when the cream is sufficiently frozen." 
 
 SACK. 
 
 The term sack is a corruption of "sec," sig- 
 nifying dry, and was applied in old times to 
 wines made from half-dried grapes. The sack of' 
 Shakespeare's day is supposed to have been what 
 we now call sherry. Sack posset was a beverage 
 highly esteemed three or four hundred years 
 ago, and as some of our readers may like to 
 taste it, we give below a few recipes for its 
 manufacture. 
 
 SACK CREAM. 
 
 Beat the yolks of two eggs, and mix with 
 them gradually half a pint of cream and half 
 a pint of lukewarm milk. Add a little sugar, 
 a flavouring of grated lemon-rind, and a glass- 
 ful of sherry. Stir the cream over the fire till 
 it begins to thicken, but be very careful that 
 it does not curdle. Serve it in custard-glasses, 
 with a little powdered cinnamon sprinkled over 
 the top. Send ratafias or other sweet biscuits 
 to table with the cream. Time, five or six 
 .minutes to heat the cream. Probable cost; 
 
SAC 
 
 740 
 
 SAF 
 
 exclusive of the sherry. Is. 4d. Sufficient for 
 fire or six glasses. 
 
 SACK POSSET (Sir Walter Raleigh's recipe). 
 
 Boil together half a pint of sherry and half a 
 pint of ale, and add gradually a quart of boiling 
 cream or milk. Sweeten the mixture well, and 
 flavour with grated nutmeg. Put it into a 
 heated dish, cover it over, and let it stand by 
 the fire two or three hours. (Lady MaliIet's 
 BECIFE.) Break eighteen new laid eggs into a 
 bowl, and carefully remove -the specks. Beat 
 the eggs> till they are lightly frothed. Boil a 
 quart of milk and a pint of previously boiled 
 sack (or sherry) with three-quarters of a pound 
 of sugar and a little grated nutmeg. Skim the 
 liijuor carefully ; when it has boiled for a little, 
 stir it off the fire for a few minutes, then add it 
 gradually to the beaten eggs. Stir the pre- 
 paration over a gentle fire till it begins to 
 thicken, pour it quickly from one vessel to 
 another till quite smooth, and then serve. 
 (Master Budstone's becipe.) Take a quart of 
 sherry or brandy, and boil it with a quarter of 
 a pint of ale and three-quarters of a pound 
 of sugar. Skim it well, then mix it gradually 
 with the well-beaten yolks of two and the 
 whites of sixteen eggs. Let the mixture cool 
 till the eggs thicken, then stir in a quart of milk 
 or cream which has been boiled down from three 
 pints. Pour it quickly from one vessel to 
 another till it is quite smooth, and then serve. 
 
 SACK WHEY (for Invalids). 
 
 Boil a pint of milk, and as it rises in the pan 
 stir into it three glasses of sherry. Let the liquid 
 boil once more, pour it out, and let it stand 
 till the curd forms. Filter the whey, sweeten, 
 dilate it, or not, with a little water, and serve. 
 
 SADDLE OF MUTTON, CARVING OF. 
 
 " This joint," says M. Ude, " is by no means 
 an economical one, as no meat from the 
 butcher's shop is so excessively dear, consider- 
 ing the little meat you can cut from it, and the 
 great waste there is in skin, fat, and bone ; and 
 
 SADDLE OP MUTTON. 
 
 that, above all, it produces no cold meat for 
 future use, and can only be used again in the 
 shape of hash. The method usually adopted in 
 carving this joint is contrary to taste and judg- 
 ment. To have your meat in the grain, pass 
 your knife straight to one side of the chine, as 
 close as possible to the bone; then turn the 
 knife straight from you, and cut the first slice 
 out; then cut slices of lean and fat. By dis- 
 engaging the slices from the flat bone in this 
 'manner, it will have a better appearance, and 
 
 you will be enabled to assist more guests. The 
 amateur of tender meat will, by turning the 
 saddle upside down, find that the under illetg 
 are most excellent, and worthy to be offered to 
 the first epicure of the day." 
 
 SAFFRON. 
 
 Saffron is very largely adulterated with the 
 petals of other plants, especially with those of 
 the marigold. Saffron is now chiefly imported 
 from the South of Europe, especially Spam. It 
 was formerly much cultivated in this country in 
 the vicinity of Saffron Walden, in Cambridge- 
 shire. The English saffron is superior to that 
 brought from Spain. Saffron used to be so ex- 
 tensively used in Cornwall that that county 
 consumed more than all the rest of England put 
 together. In the West of England it is still 
 largely used to colour cakes. 
 
 SAFFRON CAKES. 
 
 Take a quartern of fine flour, and a pound 
 and a half of butter, three ounces of caraway- 
 seeds, six eggs well-beaten, a quarter of an 
 ounce of well-pounded cloves and mace, a little 
 pounded cinnamon, one pound of sugar, a little 
 rose-water and saffron, a pint and a. half of 
 yeast, and a quart of milk. Mix these ingre- 
 dients thus : first boil the milk and butter, then / 
 skim off the butter, and mix it with the flour 
 and a little of the milk. Stir the yeast into the 
 rest of the milk, and strain it. Mix it with the 
 flour; add the eggs and spice, rose-water, tinc- 
 ture of saffron, sugar, and eggs. Beat all well 
 up, and bake in a well-buttered pan, in a quick 
 oven. Time to bake, an hour and a half. 
 
 SAFFRON CAKES OR BUNS. 
 
 Loaves, cakes, or buns mixed with a little 
 saffron-water will be found both wholesome and 
 palatable. The medicinal <]^uality of saffron is 
 stimulant, and its tendency is to help digestion. 
 It is said to kill or drive out intestinal worms. 
 To make the saffron-water, infuse a small quan- 
 tity of saffron in a little water. After a few 
 minutes, strain the liquor, and add a spoonful 
 or two to an ordinary cake. Be sure that the 
 latter rises well. The cake after baking will 
 retain the taste and smell of the saffron, and 
 will have a rich appearance. 
 
 SAFFRON CORDIAL WATER (Robinson's recipe). 
 
 Best picked saffron. . . ^ oz. 
 
 Sifted loaf sugar . . . . 4 oz. 
 
 Cinnamon and nutmeg, sliced, each J oz. . 
 
 Cloves and pimento, bruised . . 1 oz. 
 
 Sweet almonds, beaten . . . 1 oz. 
 
 Bitter almonds, beaten . . . | oz. 
 
 Caraways 1 oz. 
 
 Pure water . . . . .1 pint 
 
 Proof spirit of wine . . .1 pint 
 
 Put the above ingfredients into a stone jar, 
 the almonds beaten with a little of the spirit of 
 wine. Secure the cork, and let the ingredients 
 infuse in the usual manner. Then strain and 
 filter clear; bottle, cork, and seal. This should 
 be kept a while to let the strong flavour of the 
 saffron go off. 
 
 SAFFRON, PREPARATION OF. 
 
 The bulbs of the saffron (Crocus satimts) are 
 planted in rows six inches apart, and three from 
 bulb to bulb, in a well-pulverised, not poor, nor 
 
SAF 
 
 741 
 
 SAO 
 
 a Tery stiff clay, in the month of July. The 
 flowers are collected in September, and the 
 yellow stigmas and part of the style are picked 
 out, and dried on a kiln, between layers of 
 paper, and under the pressure of a thick board, 
 to form the mass into cakes. Two pounds of 
 dried cake is the average crop of an acre, after 
 the first planting, and twenty-four pounds for 
 the two following years. After the third crop 
 the roots are taken up, divided, and trans- 
 planted. 
 
 SAFFRON PUDDING. 
 
 Boil a table-spoonful of real saffron in half a 
 tearcupful of water until the decided taste and 
 smell peculiar to the flower have been extracted 
 and the Iio[uor has acquired a clear light-yellow 
 tinge. Mince finely three-quarters of a pound 
 of suet, and mix with it a pinch of gait, half a 
 pound of flour, half a pound of grated bread- 
 crumbs, and a tea-spoonful of powdered ginger. 
 When thoroughly mixed, stir in the saffron- 
 water, three well-beaten eggs, and as much milk 
 or cream as is required to make a light, smooth 
 dough. Turn this into a floured cloth, tie 
 securely, allowing room for the pudding to 
 swell, plunge it into boiling water, and boil 
 until done enough. Time to boil, three hours. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for six per- 
 sons. 
 
 SAFFRON, SPURIOUS. 
 
 The term saffron is often applied to the 
 Garlhartiug tinctorius,, a large thisUe-like plant, 
 belonging to the order Compositm. The root 
 is perennial, but the stem herbaceous. It is 
 said to have been originally brought from the 
 Bast, but it is now naturalised in many parts 
 of Europe, and is, besides, extensively culti- 
 vated. In Spain the flowers are used for colour- 
 ing soups, olives, and other dishes. The Jews 
 in Poland are remarkably fond of this spurious 
 saffron, and mix it with their bread and most 
 of their viands. In Germany it is cultivated in 
 a light, well pulverised soil, and is sown in 
 rows about eighteen inches apart; it is after- 
 wards thinned so' as to leave three or four inches 
 between the plants. These begin to flower 
 in September, and the fleld is then gone over 
 once every week for six or seven, weeks, in order 
 to gather the expanded florets, which are dried 
 in a kiln, in the same way as true saffron. The 
 Carthamug is occasionally employed in cookery 
 under the impression that it is the genuine 
 saffron. If too great quantities are used, it 
 produces » purgative effect. 
 
 SAFFRON TEA (to assist digestion). 
 
 Mix a pinch of saffron with a quarter of a 
 pint of hot water. Let it infuse for ten 
 minutes, then add two or three table-spoonfuls 
 of brandy or any other spirit and a lump of 
 sugar. Serve hot or cold. Time, ten minutes. 
 SAGE. 
 
 Sage is a plant much used in cookery for 
 stufSnp^, and sauces: it is supposed to assist 
 digestion. Bed sage is the best, and green sage 
 the next best. August and September are the 
 months for drying sage. 
 
 SAGE AND ONION FRITTERS. 
 
 Mince three large parboiled onions and ten 
 leaves of sage very finely ; mix with them three 
 
 ounces of bread-crumbs, two beaten eggs, and 
 pepper and salt to taste. When thoroughly 
 blended make the mixture into small flat cakes, 
 egg and bread-crumb them, and fry in boiling 
 fat for eight minutes. Probable cost, 8d. 
 
 SAGE AND ONION GRAVY. 
 
 Prepare a little more sage and onion stufSng 
 than is required, and rub a portion of it through 
 a sieve. Mix with the pulp as much good stock 
 as will make the requisite quantity of gravy, 
 add a, spoonful of Harvey's Sauce, let all boil 
 up once, and serve. 
 
 SAGE AND ONtON PIE. 
 
 Line a pie-dish with a good short crust made 
 with dripping. Cover the bottom with a layer 
 of slices of uncooked potatoes. Add one small 
 onion minced, then one sage-leaf minced small, 
 dust over with salt and pepper, and repeat 
 process till dish is full. Lay a couple of slices 
 of bacon on top, pour in a little water, cover 
 with a lid of crust, and bake a nice light 
 brown. Probable cost, 8d. to lOd. 
 
 SAGE AND ONION PUDDING. 
 
 Make a good suet paste, and roll out on 
 a well-floured board. Mince two onions rather 
 finely, and scatter them over the paste, add 
 two ounces of lean ham or bacon cut into 
 fine dice. Mine© eight leaves of sage very 
 finely, and dust over. Then add half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt and a dust of cayenne pepper. 
 EoU up the paste, fasten the ends, put into 
 a floured cloth, plunge in boiling water, and 
 boil for three hours. Serve with gravy or 
 onion sauce. Probable cost, 8d. to lOd. 
 
 SAGE AND ONION STUFFING FOR GEESE, PORK, 
 AND DUCKS. 
 
 Skin ten or twelve onions, and throw them 
 into cold water. When all are peeled, put them 
 with six or eight green sage-leaves into a sauce- 
 pan of boiling water and let them boil till 
 tender. Pour off the water, mince the onions 
 and sage finely, and beat them well with a piece 
 of butter the size of an egg and a little pepper 
 and salt. Heat them again till the butter is 
 dissolved, and serve very hot. If dried sage 
 is used, it must be powdered and mixed with the 
 onions after they are boiled. Time, about an 
 hour and a half. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient 
 for six persons. (/See also Onion and Sage 
 SinrriNG.) 
 
 SAGE AND ONION STUFFING FOR GEESE, PORK, 
 AND DUCKS (another way). 
 Peel four large onions, and boil them for three 
 minutes; add about half a dozen sage-leaves, 
 and boil all for two minutes longer. Strain off 
 the liquor, and mince finely the onions and sage. 
 Eeturn them to the saucepan with a slice of 
 fresh butter, a little pepper and salt, and a 
 quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs. Let all 
 simmer gently together, and stir the mixture 
 occasionally, to keep it from burning, for twenty 
 minutes, when the stuffing will be ready for 
 use. A beaten egg may be added if liked. 
 Sage and onion stuffing is generally seasoned 
 rather highly. When it is used for goose, the 
 liver of the bird may be boiled, minced, and 
 mixed with it. Time, half an hour. Probable 
 cost, 4d. SufScieut for a moderate-sized goose 
 
SAG 
 
 742 
 
 SAO 
 
 or a couple of ducks. (iSee also Onion and 
 Sa«ie Stui'wno.) 
 
 sage and thyme. 
 
 The Ipaves of these plants are used fresh and 
 dry, and form the flavourings of those ingre- 
 dients which are put into -the inside of ducks, - 
 geese, roast pigs, sausages, and other animal 
 food brought to the table. " They are warm 
 and discussive, and good against crudities of 
 the stomach," according to an old writer on the 
 subject. 
 
 SAGE CHEESE. 
 
 There is a kind of sage cheese which used to 
 be, and perhaps still is, made by a few families 
 in Gloucestershire for their private consump- 
 tion : it is the most delicious of any of the green 
 cheeses. It is intended for immediate use, and 
 will not keep long. A quantity of young sage- 
 leaves are bruised iu a mortar, and the juice is 
 extracted from them : the juice of a quantity of 
 spinach is extracted by the' same process and 
 mixed with the sage-juice in equal proportions. 
 Just before the rennet is- put to the milk, a 
 quantity of this juice, regulated by the colour 
 and ilavour desired in the cheese, is mixed 
 with the milk. As the curd is being formed, 
 it is gently broken, and in equal lumps as 
 nearly as possible. The whey is then separa- 
 ted, and the curd put into the • vat and sub- 
 mitted to gentle and gradual pressure during 
 seven hours. It is next salted twice a day for 
 three or four days, and afterwards turned every 
 day during five weeks. It is then fit for use. 
 This cheese is very little known, and deserves 
 wider recognition; it may be made anywhere 
 with rich and unsophisticated milk. 
 
 SAGE GARGLE (for sore throat). 
 
 Boil a handful of sage-leaves in a pint of 
 water till the liquor is reduced one-half. Strain 
 it, let it get cold, then mix with it half a pint 
 of vinegar, and sweeten with honey or sugar. 
 A glassful of port may be added to the gargle, 
 or not. 
 
 SAGE, ONION, AND APPLE STUFFING FOR 
 GEESE, PORK, AND DUCKS. 
 
 Put four apples, four onions, four sage-leaves, 
 and four lemon-thyme leaves into a saucepan 
 with as much water as will cover them. Let 
 them simmer till tender, then pour off the 
 water, and rub them through a sieve. Season 
 the pulp with pepper and salt, mix with it as 
 much mashed potato as will make it dry and 
 smooth, and the stuffing will be ready for use. 
 If liked, a spoonful of boiled rice may be mixed 
 with the sage, etc., instead of the potatoes. 
 Time, an hour or more. Probable cost, about 
 4d. Sufficient for one goose or two ducks. 
 SAGE, PROPERTIES OF. 
 
 Sage ouce had a high reputation for its 
 medicinal qualities; but at present these do 
 not appear to be much thought of. It possesses, 
 however, some astringent and aromatic powers ; 
 and a decoction, or sage tea, is of use in cases 
 of debility of the stomach, and in nervous dis- 
 orders. The broad-leaved balsamic species is 
 the most efficacious for its medicinal qualities 
 and as a tea herb. Sage is also introduced into 
 ■ cheese, and we have given above an excellent 
 recipe for the manufacture of sage cheese. 
 
 SAGE TEA. 
 
 " The virtues of sage," says Dr. Paris, " have 
 been so extravagantly praised that, like many 
 of our remedies, the plant is fallen into disuse 
 from the disgust which its panegyrists have 
 excited. I am convinced, however, that in the 
 form of infusion it possesses some power of 
 allaying the irritability of the stomach, and 
 that, on many occasions, it will furnish a salu- 
 tary beverage." 
 
 SAGE, VARIETIES OF. 
 
 The varieties of sage are the common or red, 
 the green, the small-leaved or sage of virtue, 
 and the broad-leaved or balsamic. The red is 
 the principal sort in culinary use, having the 
 most agreeable and fullest flavour; the green 
 is next in estimation with the cook; but the 
 small-leaved is generally preferred to those to 
 eat as a raw herb and for decoctions, while the 
 broad-leaved balsamic species ie the most effi- 
 cacious in a medical way, and is also a tea herb. 
 However, any of the sorts may be occasionally 
 used for these different purposes. 
 
 SAGE, WHOLESOMENESS OF. 
 
 The garden sage {Salvia officintdu) was for- 
 merly in great repute as a sudorific, aromatic, 
 astringent, and antiseptic. It possesses stimu- 
 lant properties in a high degree, is tonic and 
 stomachic; the odour is strong, aromatic, and 
 agreeable ; the taste bitter, pungent, and some- 
 what resemblin|^ camphor, which substance, 
 indeed, is contained in the plant. The leaves 
 are often employed in seasoning dishes. The 
 Chinese esteem this plant very highly, and use 
 it as a tonic for strengthening the stomach. 
 
 SAGE WINE, GREEN. 
 
 Take nine pounds of good honey, and boil 
 it with ten gallons of river- or rain-water 
 and the whites of ten eggs well beaten. Boil 
 for one hour, skimming till the liquid is clear ; 
 while hot, pour it upon forty pounds of good 
 Malaga raisins freed from stalks, stoned and 
 cut small, and three pecks of green sage-leaves 
 freshly gathered and shredded roughly. Cover 
 the preparation closely, and stir now and 
 again during forty-eight hours. At the end 
 of that time press the fruit in a hair bag, 
 strain the liquid into a clean vessel, and on 
 the following day draw off what is clear into 
 a cask. Filter the lees, and add them with the 
 rinds of six lemons and four Seville oranges 
 pared thin, and the juice of both strained. 
 Keep the cask open for four or, five days and 
 well filled up; when the liquor has done hiss- 
 ing, wait a day, then add three half-pints of 
 brandy and an ounce and a half of best isinglass 
 dissolved in two quarts of the wine. Secure 
 the bung carefully, and store in a cool dry 
 cellar for twelve months; then, if fine, bottle 
 the wine ; if not, rack it off into a clean vessel, 
 filter the dregs two or three times through a 
 flannel bag, and fill the cask again. Add a pint 
 more brandy and four ounces of sugar-candy:; 
 then stop the cask up again, and bottle the wine 
 in three months. If kept for half a year this 
 wine will be excellent and highly flavoured. 
 
 SAGE WINE, RED. 
 
 Take three pecks of red sage-leaves, free 
 them from the stalks, shred them roughly, and. 
 
SAG 
 
 743 
 
 SAG 
 
 pour (Sver them four gallons of boiling soft 
 water. Cover the vessel closely, and let it 
 stand for one day. Take forty-five pounds of 
 good Malaga raisins, pick them, cut them in 
 halves and ,stone them; then pour over them 
 six gallons of water that has been well boiled 
 and become lukewarm. Stir well, and cover 
 them up. Then mix the contents of the two ves- 
 sels, add the rinds of ten lemons, pared veryi 
 thin, and their juice. Let all infuse for five days, 
 stirring twice daily. Place in a clean ten-gallon 
 cask six ounces of sugar-candy and an ounce of. 
 bitter almonds blanched and beaten to a 
 paste, together with a spoonful of brandy. 
 Strain the liquor upon them, filling to the biing- 
 hole of the cask, which must be tightly covered. 
 Let the liquor work out, keeping the cask full, 
 and on the fermentation ceasing, put in a qiiart 
 of brandy, and stop up the bunghole for two 
 months. Then rack the liquor into a clean vessel, 
 filter the.lees, and return all that is clear into 
 the cask again with six ounces more of sugar- 
 candy, a pint of brandy, and an ounce and a 
 half of isinglass dissolved in two quarts of the 
 wine. Stop the cask effectually, and store for 
 twelve months. At the end of the year bottle 
 the wine, and when it is eighteen "months old 
 it will be fit for use. This is an excellent 
 stomachic wine. 
 
 SAGGERTON JUMBLES. 
 
 These little cakes are delicious either hot or 
 cold, and have the advantage that, when the 
 ingredients are ready to hand, they may be 
 made quickly. 
 
 First of all cream together three oUKces of 
 fresh butter and five ounces of castor sugar; 
 then add one egg, previously well beaten. Stir 
 in three tea-spoonfuls of new milk, and beat 
 slightly. Next add the juice of two lemons 
 and the grated rind of one, taking care to grate 
 the lemon very finely. Mix one tea-spoonful of 
 cream of tartar with half a tea-spoonful of car- 
 bonate of soda, and stir this into the flour. 
 Sift the flour in now very gradually till the 
 paste is thick. £uead and roll out very thin. 
 Cut into pretty shapes with a pastry cutter, 
 or into ovals and circles. Bake in a quick oven 
 for five minutesl 
 
 Cost, about Is. 
 
 SAGO. 
 
 The farinaceous food of this name is light, 
 wholesome, and nutritious, and especially suited 
 for children and invalids- It is made from the 
 pith of a tree which grows abundantly in the 
 Bast Indies. In order to obtain it, the tree 
 is cut down, and the pith extracted from the 
 trunk, reduced to powder, washed, dried, and 
 rubbed into grains for exportation. 
 
 Large forests of sago-palm grow in the 
 Malaccas, and it is no uncommon thing for 
 one tree to yield from one hundred to eight 
 hundred pounds of sago. 
 
 SAGO AND APPLE PUDDING. 
 
 This is an old-fashioned dish, and if care- 
 fully made is very much liked. 
 , Soak a tea-cupful of large sago in cold water 
 for an hour, , to free it from the earthy taste. 
 Rinse it well, and boil gently till clear in a, 
 quart of water. Stir frequently, and add a little 
 
 more hot water if necessary. This will depend 
 upon the quality of the sago, which when taken 
 from the fire should be tolerably thin. Half 
 fill a large buttered pie-dish with partially- 
 boiled apples. Sweeten these, and sprinkle over 
 them a little grated lemon-rind or powdered 
 cinnamon. Pour the boiled sago over them, 
 and bake the pudding in a moderate oven. 
 When the apples are soft the pudding is done 
 enough. Time to boil the sago, about an hour; 
 to b£ike the pudding, about an hour. Probable 
 cost, 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 SAGO BLANCMANGE. 
 
 Soak five ounces of sago for five hours in a 
 pint of cold water, then stir into it a pint and a 
 half of boiling milk, add three ounces of castor 
 sugar and ten drops of vanilla. Boil for twenty 
 minutes, stirring all the time, then pour into , 
 a mould, and when cold turn out and pour 
 custard round. 
 
 SAGO BREAD. 
 
 One-fourth, or at most one-third, of sago is 
 the best proportion to'wheaten fiour. Dissolve 
 the sago for three hours in milk-warm water on a 
 hob. Then mix as for common bread. The loaves 
 should be baked in a slack oven for two hours, 
 then allowed to grow stale, when the bread will 
 be found excellent and economical. 
 
 SAGO FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 Soak a table-spoonful of sago for an hour. 
 Einse it, and boil it gently till clear with a 
 pint of water or milk and water. A little thin 
 lemon-rind, grated nutmeg, cinnamon, or any 
 other flavouring, may be boiled with it, or the 
 sago may be merely sweetened, and served with 
 a table-spoonful of wine or brandy stirred into 
 it at the last moment. If the sago is too thick, 
 a little more water may be added. Time, about 
 three-quarters of an hour to boil the sago. Suf- 
 fidient for one person. Probable cost, 2d., ex- 
 clusive of the wine, etc. 
 
 SAGO GRUEL. 
 
 Take two table-spoonfuls of sago, and place 
 it in a small saucepan; moisten gradually 
 with a little cold water. Set the preparation 
 on' a slow flre, and keep stirring till it becomes 
 rather stiff and clear. Add a little grated nut- 
 meg and sugar to taste ; if preferred, half a 
 pat of butter may also be added with the sugar, 
 and a glassful of wine will be an improvement 
 to the gruel. 
 
 SAGO JELLY. 
 
 Take one pound of sago and five pints of 
 water. Wash the sago well, then boil it with 
 the water till it is reduced to a transparent jelly. 
 The preparation may be flavoured to taste. 
 
 SAGO-MEAL. 
 
 Sago is sometimes imported into this country 
 in the pulverised state, in which it can be dis- 
 tinguished from arrowroot only by microscopic 
 examination of its particles. These are uniform 
 and spherical, not unequal and ovoid, like those 
 of arrowroot. In this state it is known as sago- 
 meal. 
 
 SAGO MILK. 
 
 Soak a large table-spoonful of sago in water 
 for an hour, then boil it in fresh water for two 
 
8AQ 
 
 744 
 
 SAO 
 
 or three minutes. Four the liquor off, and sub- 
 stitute for it a quart of new milk. Boil the 
 sago gently till the milk is reduced to a pint. 
 Sweeten, flavour, and serve. Time, about an 
 hour to boil the sago with the milk. Probable 
 cost, 5d. Sufficient for one person. (See alio 
 Milk Saoo.) 
 
 SAGO, MOULDED. 
 
 Put four ounces of washed sago into a sauce- 
 pan that has been rubbed at the bottom and 
 sides with a bit of butter; add a quart of cold 
 milk, stir to boiling point, and cook for an 
 hour and a half, stirring frequently. Take it 
 off the fire, beat in the yoUc of a raw egg, then 
 pour into a damp mould, and turn out when 
 cold. If preferred without fruit or sauce, the 
 sago must be sweetened. Probable cost, Gd. 
 
 SAGO, NUTRITIVE PROPERTIES OF. 
 
 "The sago palm," says Professor Johnston, 
 "is cultivated in many places, but it is the 
 chief support of the inhabitants of Xo'rth- 
 western Sew Guinea, and of parts of the coast 
 of Africa. The meal is extracted from the pith 
 by rubbing it to powder, and then washing it 
 with water upon a sieve. It is baked by the 
 natives into a kind of bread or hard cake, by 
 putting it for a few minutes into a hot mould. 
 The exact nutritive value of sago has not been 
 chemically ascertained. It has "been stated, 
 however, that two and a half pounds of it 
 are enough for a day's sustenance for a 
 healthy full - grown man. And as each 
 tree, when cut down in its seventh year, 
 yields seven hundred pounds of sago-meal, it 
 has been calculated that a single acre of land 
 planted with three hundred trees — one-seventh 
 to be out down every year — will maintain four- 
 teen men." The pith of the sago palm made 
 into bread probably contains a sufficient quan- 
 tity of gluten to sustain life; but this is in a 
 great measure washed out in manufacturing the 
 sago of commerce. Sago has been sometimes 
 used as an ingredient of household bread, in 
 the proportion of one part of sago to about three 
 of wheaten flour. 
 
 SAGO PORRIDGE. 
 
 Wash the sago in cold water, and boil it in 
 water, allowing two table-spoonfuls of sago to 
 every pint of water. Add pepper and salt to 
 taste, and let cold milk be served with the 
 porridge. 
 
 SAGO, PORTLAND. 
 
 Portland sago derives its name from the 
 Island of Portland, where it is manufactured 
 from the roots of the common wake robin (Arum 
 maculatum), which is found there in great 
 abundance. The roots are full of farina, but in 
 their natural state are so acrid that on the 
 juice being applied to the skin it raises blisters. 
 On heat being applied by roasting or boiling, 
 this juice is dissipated, and the roots are ren- 
 dered perfectly harmless. This being done, 
 they are dried and pounded. They yield a 
 starchy matter not unlike the Indian arrow- 
 root: hence Portland sago is sometimes called 
 English arrowroot. 
 
 SAGO PUDDING (a German recipe). 
 
 Take four ounces of sago, and boil in a quart 
 of milk. When the sago is quite boiled out. 
 
 remove it from the fire, and stir in a quarter 
 of a pound of creamed butter, four ounces of 
 biscuit-powder, four ounces of sugar, the 
 peel of a lemon, grated, and six or eight eggs 
 beaten up. Butter a mould, pour this prepara- 
 tion in, and bake or boil. Send to table with 
 a wine or raspberry sauce poured over the 
 pudding. 
 
 SAGO PUDDING, BAKED. 
 
 Wash three table-spoonfuls of sago, and soak 
 it for an hour in half a pint of cold water. 
 Meantime put a pint and a half of milk into 
 a saucepan with a little lemon-rind, an inch of 
 stick cinnamon, or an ounce of blanched and 
 pounded almonds, and let it simmer gently till 
 it is pleasantly flavoured. Strain and sweeten ; 
 mix with it the soaked sago drained from the 
 water, and simmer gently, stirring frequently 
 till the preparation is thick. Let it cool, then 
 add two well-beaten eggs and a slice of fresh 
 butter, and beat it again for a few minutes. 
 Pour it into a buttered pie-dish, and bake until 
 the surface is brightly browned. Serve wiUi 
 wine sauce. If a superior pudding is .required, 
 four eggs may be used instead of two, and the 
 dish may be lined with puff-paste before the 
 sago is poured into it. Time to bake the pud- 
 ding, from three-quarters of an hour to an hour. 
 Probable cost, 9a. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 SAGO PUDDING, BOILED. 
 
 Put a pint of milk into a saucepan with the 
 thin rind of half a lemon, and let it simmer 
 gently until it is pleasantly flavoured. Strain 
 it, mix with it three table-spoonfuls of well- 
 washed sago and two table-spoonfuls of sugar, 
 and then boil the mixture, stirring gently till 
 it is thick and smooth. Let it cool, then add 
 two well-beaten eggs. Turn it into a well-but- 
 tered basin which it will quite fill, lay a but- 
 tered paper on the top, and tie a floured cloth 
 securely over it. Plunge it into a saucepan 
 with plenty of boiling water, and keep it boiling 
 till done enough. Move it about occasionally 
 for the first quarter of an hour. Let it stand 
 in the basin a few minutes, then turn it out 
 carefully, and garnish with jelly, or send wine 
 sauce to table with it. Time to boil, one hour. 
 Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 SAGO PUDDING, BOILED (SUPERIOR). 
 
 Soak an ounce and a half of sago for an hour. 
 Strain it, and boil it in a pint of milk till it 
 is clear, and to flavour it add an ounce of 
 blanched and pounded almonds, the thin rind 
 of a lemon, or an inch of stick cinnamon. Pour 
 the sago out, remove the flavouring ingredients, 
 and stir it till cool. Beat it up with two sponge- 
 biscuits crushed to powder, the well-whisked 
 yolks of five eggs and the whites of two, a little 
 sugar, and a glassful of sherry or Madeira. 
 Boil the pudding as in the last recipe. Let it 
 stand three or four minutes, turn it out care- 
 fully, and serve with wine sauce or with half a 
 pint of any fresh fruit boiled with sugar and 
 water to a rich syrup, and strained over the 
 pudding. Time to boil, one hour. Probable 
 cost. Is., exclusive of the wine and sauce. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 
745 
 
 SAL 
 
 SACO PUDDING, RED. 
 
 Boil in milk two ounces of sago. When it is 
 quite thick, beat into it six eggs, leaving out 
 uiree of the whites; add half a pint of cream 
 and two table-spoonfuls of sherry, with nutmeg 
 and sugar according to taste. Put pastry round 
 the dish. 
 
 «AOO SAUCE FOR BOILED PUDDINGS. 
 
 Wash a table-spoonful of large sago, and boil 
 it in the third of a pint of water for ten 
 minutes. Sweeten it, flavour with a little 
 grated lemon-rind or pounded cinnamon, add 
 the strained juice of a small lemon and a glass- 
 ful of sherry or Madeira, let it boil up once, and 
 serve. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 
 lOd. Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 SACO SOUP. 
 
 Wash six ounces of sago, and add it gradually 
 to two quarts of nicely-flavoured stock. Let it 
 simmer gently till the sago is quite clear, and 
 put in further seasoning if necessary. Before 
 serving the soup mix with it either the strained 
 juice of a lemon and a glass of light wine, or 
 the yolks of two eggs beaten up with a little 
 cream. Serve very hot. 
 
 SAGO SOUP, RED (a Danish recipe). 
 
 Boil the sago as in the recipe Sago Sotif, 
 White. Instead, however, of beating up eggs 
 and wine in the tureen, put into it preserved 
 raspberries, currants, or cherries. In summer, 
 ripe fruit may be used, which must be boiled 
 with the sago. Add sugar to taste. 
 
 SAGO SOUP, RESTORATIVE. 
 
 Boil two ounces of sago in a pint of mutton, 
 veal, or chicken broth till clear. Serve hot or 
 cold. 
 
 SAGO SOUP, WHITE (a Danish recipe). 
 
 Take half a pound of pearl sago, and wash it 
 well in cold water; put it into four pints of 
 boiling water along with the rind of a lemon. 
 If liked, four ounces of raisins may afterwards 
 be added. Beat up in the tureen the yolks of 
 four eggs, add white or very pale brown sugar 
 to taste, the juice of two or three lemons, and 
 half a pint of white wine. Pour the soup slowly 
 over this mixture, beating the eggs and wine 
 vigorously all the while. The sago should boil 
 for half an hour. 
 
 SAGO, WITH wAe sauce (a German recipe). 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of sago, and boil 
 it in a pint of water with the peel of a lemon 
 till it is quite boiled out; add a little white 
 wine, sugar, and cinnamon. Stir the prepara- 
 tion till it becomes thin, then let it boil a little 
 longer, and remove the peel and cinnamon. 
 Pour the sago out to cool in a deep plate; 
 when cold cut it into shapes, and place in the 
 dish which is to appear at table. Pour over 
 them a sauce composed of wine, sugar, cinna- 
 mon, and grated lemon-peel. If preferred, the 
 juice of fruit may be used instead of wine. 
 
 SAILOR'S SOUP. 
 
 Clean a small pike, a tench, a carp, and a 
 moderate-sized eel ; cut them into small lengths, 
 throw over them a little sea-water to cleanse, 
 and salt them at the same time ; an hour after 
 wash and drain them on a napkin; then lay 
 
 each fish separately in a saute-pan containing 
 two onions, two carrots, and a pound of mush- 
 rooms sliced, some parsley-roots, bay-leaf, basil, ' 
 thyme, two cloves, a clove of nutmeg, a pinch 
 of pepper and grated nutmeg, half a pint of 
 Chablis wine, and a ladleful of good stock; let 
 them simmer for ten minutes, take out the carp, 
 and ten minutes after drain the remaining fish 
 on a baking-sheet, and observe that no fragment 
 of th'e seasoning remains about the fish. Lay 
 them gradually in the tureen, which cover and 
 place in the hot closet; strain the essence of 
 the fish through a sieve; add to it some more 
 stock; clarify it, and pour it while boiling into 
 the tureen; mingling with it roots dressed in 
 some consomme; the same as in the- recipe 
 SANT&, PoTAQE D£, but without the lettuces 
 and sorrel. 
 
 SALAD. 
 
 A salad well prepared is a charming com- 
 pound, and, when taken with plenty of oil, very 
 wholesome, attractive, and agreeable; badly 
 prepared it is an abomination. A Spanish pro- 
 verb says that four persons are needed to make 
 a good salad : a spendthrift to throw in the oil, 
 a miser to drop in the vinegar, a lawyer to 
 administer the seasoning, and a madman to 
 stir the whole together. Lettuce is generally 
 supposed to form the foundation of a salad, but 
 there are few fresh vegetables that may not oe 
 used : and on the Continent every known vege- 
 table is, when plainly dressed, used cold foi 
 salads; and cold meat, fish, and game are 
 served in the same way. Amongst the vege- 
 tables appropriate for salads may be named as- 
 paragus, artichokes, beetroot boiled, -basil, 
 celery, chives, cucumbers, chervil, cauliflowers, 
 dandelion-leaves, endive, French beans, garlic, 
 lettuces of all kinds, lentils, mustard and cress, 
 mint, onions, parsley, potatoes, radishes, shal- 
 lots, sorrel, tarragon, tomatoes, Windsor beans, 
 and water-cress. Though a variety in salads 
 is easily secured, great care is necessary in the 
 preparation of the dish, and three. or four rules 
 must be closely observed if the salad is to be 
 a success. First, the vegetables must be young, 
 freshly-cut, in season, and in good condition. 
 If possible, they should be gathered early in the 
 morning, or late in the evening, and should be 
 kept in a cool, damp place. Secondly, the 
 vegetables should not be allowed to lie long in 
 water. If withered, they may be put in for a 
 short time to render them a little crisp, but if 
 fresh, they should be simply rinsed through the 
 water and dried immediately. Thirdly — and 
 this point requires most careful attention — the 
 vegetables must be rendered perfectly dry after 
 washing. The best way of doing this is to 
 drain &e salad and shake it first in a colander, 
 or salad-basket, and afterwards in a clean nap- 
 kin held by the corners and shaken lightly till 
 the salad is dry. Fourthly, cut the salad with 
 a silver knife, or tear it into shreds ; do not pre- 
 pare it until a short time before it is wanted, 
 and on no account mix the salad-dressing with 
 it until the last moment. It is a very usual 
 and excellent plan to pour the liquid into the 
 Ibottom of the bowl, lay the shredded vegetables 
 upon it, and mix the salad at table. A wooden 
 fork and spoon are the best for this purpose. 
 
SAL 
 
 Salads may be garnished in various ways, and 
 afford ample opportunity for the diaplay of 
 artistic taste. Boiled beetroot cut into slices 
 stamped into fancy shapes or cut into trellis- 
 work, sliced cucumber, olives, hard-boiled eggs 
 cut into, quarters or rings, radishes, nasturtium- 
 leaves and flowers, etc., may all be used. When 
 these are arranged tastefully the salad presents 
 a very attractive appearance. Of course, the 
 garniture must not entirely hide the salad. 
 
 SALAD, BEEF. 
 
 Cut a pound of cold beef into thin slices; 
 put these into a salad-bowl with half a pound 
 of fresh lettuce or endive dried and shredded 
 small and a quarter of a pound of cold boiled 
 haricot beans. Add, if liked, a pickled gherkin 
 chopped small, or a spoonful of sliced tarragon- 
 leaves, or chervil, or onion. Season the salad 
 with a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful 
 of pepper, half a fea-spoonful of mixed mus- 
 tard, two spoonfuls of vinegar, and five, spoon- 
 fuls of good salad-oil. Mix all lightly together 
 with a fork, and serve. The salad ought not to 
 be mixed until it is about to be served. Time, 
 a quarter of an hour to prepare the salad. 
 Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 SALAD, BOILED. 
 
 Boil separately equal quantities of French 
 beans and celery or cauliffower. Drain them, 
 and cut t;hem up small. Put them into a salad- 
 bowl, and sprinkle over them a layer of shredded 
 lettuce, endive, or chervil. Pour over the whole 
 a little salad dressing, mix lightly, and serve. 
 Boiled onion and slices of cold meat, fish, or 
 poultry may be added, or not. 
 SALAD, CHEAP AND GOOD. 
 
 Take one pennyworth of mustard and cress, 
 two pennyworth of water-cress, two pennyworth 
 of cooked beetroot, and a fourpenny head ot 
 celery ; cut the beet into small squares ; take a 
 glass or silver dish, pile the beet in pyramids, 
 do the same with the celery and water-cress, and 
 arrange all round the dish; heap the mustard 
 and cress into a pile in the centre; boil two 
 eggs hard; take the yolks, and mix them 
 with a little mashed potato, a table-spoon- 
 ful of vinegar, half a table-spoonful of Harvey s 
 sauce, and ketchup, pepper, and salt, two 
 spoonfuls of milk, the same of oil, and a salt- 
 spoonful of sugar; pour this over the whole. 
 SALAD, COLD VEGETABLE. 
 
 Almost all cold dressed vegetables, such as 
 peas, French beans, haricot beans, artichokes, 
 asparagus, cauliflower, cabbage, and pota.toe8, 
 may be used as salads. They should simply be 
 cut up, arranged neatly on a dish, beaten up 
 very lightly with a simple salad-dressing, and 
 garnished according to taste. 
 SALAD DRESSING. 
 
 Salad dressings are frequently bought of the 
 grocer and sent to table in the bottle in which 
 they are purchased. Though these creams are 
 many of them very good, epicures in salad 
 always prefer that the salad dressing should be 
 prepared at home. Mayonnaise salad sauce is 
 perhaps to be preferred to any other, and tor 
 this a recipe is given (see Salad Sauce, Maton- 
 naisb). a foolish prejudice is felt by many 
 
 746' SAL- 
 
 persons against the use of oil in salads, but this'- 
 is gradually disappearing, as the majority of 
 those who are prevailed upon to overcome it 
 end by being exceedingly partial to what they 
 had before disliked, and they also find that oil 
 tends to prevent the fermentation of the raw 
 vegetable, and is, besides, an antidote to flatu- 
 lency. Seeing, however, that this prejudice . 
 still exists, two or three recipes are given of 
 salad dressings without oil as "well as with it. 
 It has been already said that the dressing 
 should not be mixed with the salad until the 
 last moment. Nevertheless, it may always be 
 prepared some hours before it is wanted, and 
 stored in a cool, airy place. When salads are 
 much ussd, a good plan is to make and bottle 
 sufiicient for two or three days' consumption. 
 No. 1. — Put a salt-spoonful of salt, half a salt- 
 spoonful of white pepper, a tea-spoonful of 
 mixed mustard, a pinch of cayenne, and a tea- 
 spoonful of powdered sugar into a bowl. Mix 
 thoroughly, and add, first by drops and after- 
 wards by tea-spoonfula, two table-spoonfuls of 
 oil, four table-spoonfuls of milk, and two table- 
 spoonfuls of vinegar^ Stir well between every 
 addition. The sauce ought to look like cream. 
 A tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar may be 
 added, or not. No. 2.— Boil an egg till hard, 
 and lay it in cold water for a minute. Strip off 
 the shell, and put the yolk into a bowl. Eub 
 it well with the back of a wooden spoon, and 
 put with it a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, a 
 salt-spoonful of salt, half a, salt-spoonful of 
 white pepper, a salt-spoonful of powdered sugar, 
 and a pinch of cayenne. Add, first by drops 
 and afterwards by salt-spoonfuls, a table-spoon- 
 ful of oil. When these are well mixed, 
 add six table-spoonfuls of thick cream, and, 
 lastly, two' table-aponfuls of vinegar. Beat 
 the sauce well between every addition. Mmce 
 the white (of the egg, or cut it into rings, 
 with whicH to garnish the salad. No. 3 (Dr. 
 Kitchener's recipe).— Boil two eggs for a quarter 
 of an hour. Lay them in cold water, and in a 
 few minutes strip off the shells, and lay the 
 yolks in a basin. Rub them till smooth with 
 the back of a wooden spoon, and mix with them, 
 very gradually, first a table-spoonful of water 
 or thick cream, and afterwards two table-spoon- 
 fuls of oil. When these are well mixed, add a 
 tea-spoonful of salt or powdered sugar, a tea- 
 spoonful of made mustard, and, lastly, and very 
 gradually, three table-spoonfuls of vinegar. 
 Put the sauce at the bottom of the bowl, lay 
 the salad on the top, garnish with the whites 
 of the eggs cut into rir^gs, and do not mix the 
 salad till the last moment. No. 4.— Mix a salt- 
 spoonful of salt and half a salt-spoonful ot 
 pepper with a table-spoonful of oil. When the 
 salt is dissolved, put in four additional table- 
 spoonfuls of oil, and then pour the sauce over 
 the salad. Mix , thoroughly, and add a table- 
 spoonful of good vinegar and a table-spoontul 
 of tarragon or cucumber vinegar. Mix again, 
 and serve. No. 5.— Rub the hard-boiled yolka 
 of three eggs till smooth, and mix m a salt- 
 spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of raw mustard, 
 a salt-spoonful of powdered loaf sugar, halt a 
 salt-spoonful of white pepper anf the well- 
 beaten yolk of a raw egg. Add gradually four 
 table-spoonfuls of thick cream, and two table- 
 
SAL 
 
 747 
 
 SAL 
 
 spoonfuls ur strained lemon-juice. Beat the 
 dressing thoroughly between every addition. 
 No. 6. — Beat the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs 
 till smooth. Add a tea-spoonful of salt, a tea- 
 spoonful of powdered sugar, a pinch of cayenne, 
 a quarter of a tea-spoonful of white pepper, and, 
 gradually, two table-spoonfuls of oil, the 
 strained juice -of a lemon, and two table-spoon- 
 fuls of light wine. No. 7. — ^Eub the yolks of 
 two hard-boiled eggs till smooth with a tea^ 
 spoonful of vinegar. Add a tea-spoonful each 
 of mustard, sugar, salt, and pepper, a table- 
 spoonful of claret, and a finely-minced shallot 
 or young onion. Beat in, first by drops and 
 afterwards by tea-spoonfuls, four table-apoon- 
 fuls of salad-oil, and, lastly, add a tea-spoonful 
 of tarragon vinegar and a table-spoonful of 
 white-wine vinegar. No. 8. — Beat a spoonful 
 of flour with the yolks of three raw eggs. Add 
 a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, half a salt- 
 spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, 
 two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and three table- 
 spoonfuls of water. Cut three ounces of streaky 
 bacon into small pieces, and fry these till they 
 begin to turn colour. Pour in the salad mix- 
 ture, and stir the' whole over the fire till the 
 cream is thick and smooth. Pour it out, and 
 continue stirring until cool, and add a little 
 more vinegar and water if necessary. The 
 sauce ought to be as thick as custard. No. 9 
 (named Sauce a la Lowry). — Beat the yolk of 
 a raw egg. Mix with it a pinch of salt, a pinch 
 of white pepper, and, gradually, three tea- 
 spoonfuls of salad-oil, a tea-spoonful of essence 
 of anchovy, and two tea-spoonfuls of vinegar. 
 
 SALAD DRESSING FOR FISH SALAD. 
 
 Kub the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs till 
 smooth. Add a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, 
 a tea-spoonful of sugar, half a tea-spoonful of 
 salt, a pinch of cayenne, a pinch of white 
 pepper, and two sardines from which the skin 
 and bones have been removed, or instead of the 
 sardines use a spoonful of bruised capers and a 
 minced shallot. • When these ingredients are 
 thoroughly incorporated, add very gradually 
 two table-spoonfuls of thick cream, a table- 
 spoonful of tarragon vinegar, and a tea-spoonful 
 of lemon-juice. 
 SALAD DRESSING ([talian). 
 
 Eemove the skin and bones from an anchovy, 
 pound the flesh well, and mix with it a tear 
 spoonful of mixed mustard. Add very gradually 
 four table-spoonfuls of Lucca oil, beat the sauce 
 well, and add two tea-spoonfuls of garlic vine- 
 gar, two of chilli vinegar and four of white- 
 wine vinegar. When the sauce is smooth and 
 thick like cream it is ready for serving. 
 
 SALAD DRESSING WITHOUT OIL. 
 
 No. 1. — Mix a tea-spoonful of salt and half a 
 tea-spoonful of white pepper with three table- 
 spoonfuls of thick sour cream. Beat well, and 
 add a table-spoonful of vinegar. If liked, a 
 little sugar may be rubbed upon the rind of a 
 fresh lemon, and dissolved in the vinegar before 
 it is mixed with the cream. No. 2. — Rub the 
 yolks of two hard-boiled eggs till smooth. Add a 
 spoonful of mixed mustard, a quarter of a tea-, 
 spoonful of white pepper, half a salt-spoonful of 
 salt, a pinch of cayenne, and two table-spoon- 
 
 fuls of thick cream. When all these ingte-. 
 dients are thoroughly mixed, add very gradually' 
 as much vinegar as will make the sauce of the 
 consistency of cream. 
 
 SALAD, EVERY-DAY. 
 
 In warm weather cold meat Sent to table with 
 a good salad, and a little cucumber or pickle, 
 often proves more acceptable than the most ex- 
 pensive joint served hot. To make the salad, 
 wash one or two lettuces, throw away the outer 
 and decayed leaves, and wash the others, hand- 
 ling them as lightly as possible. Drain them, 
 and dry them perfectly, first by shaking them 
 in a colander or salad-basket, and afterwards 
 by shaking them in a napkin held loosely by 
 the four corners. When the napkin has ab- 
 sorbed all the moisture, shred the lettuce — with 
 a silver knife if possible. Bub the salad-bowl 
 three or four times across with a clove of garlic, 
 or with a slice of onion, and put in the shredded 
 lettuce. Mix thoroughly in the salad-spoon a 
 salt-spoonful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of 
 pepper, and a mustard-spoonful of mixed mus- 
 tard. Sprinkle the seasoning over the salad, 
 and work it well in. Pour upon it as much 
 Lucca oil as will cover it, and work this in; 
 then add a table-spoonful of good vinegar and, 
 if it can be had, a dessert-spoonful of tarragon 
 vinegar. The salad should not be mixed till 
 the moment of serving. If liked, shredded 
 celery, a head of endive, small salad, water- 
 cress, sliced beetroot, sliced cucumber, spring 
 radishes, and chopped green onions may be 
 added to the salad. Time, plenty of time must 
 be given for drying the lettuce perfectly, as 
 the success of a salad depends in a great 
 measure upon the lettuce being, quite dry 
 Probable cost of moderate-sized salad, 8d. 
 
 SALAD, FLEMISH. 
 
 Cut off the heads and tails from two Dutch 
 herrings, and divide them into slices of half an 
 inch thick. Cut the flsh slantwise, and place 
 them in their natural position ; add potatoes 
 cut into squares, Brussels sprouts, a few green 
 onions, some celery, all boiled, and season with 
 oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt. Any pickled or 
 dried flsh may be used instead of herrings. 
 
 SALAD, FRENCH. 
 
 A French salad, strigtly speaking, consists of 
 one kind of salad only, usually lettuce, washed, 
 dried perfectly, torn into small pieces, and 
 mixed lightly with salad dressing. If endive, 
 small salad, water-cress, etc., are mixed with 
 the different kinds of lettuce, the salad loses 
 its distinctive character as a French salad. 
 
 SALAD, FRUIT. 
 
 Currants, strawberries, raspberries, peaches, 
 apricots, plums, oranges, pineapples, etc., may 
 all be served as salads. The large fruit should 
 be pared and sliced, the small fruit picked and 
 arranged in a dish. Powdered sugar should 
 then be sifted thickly over, together with a 
 table-spoonful or two of spirit or any suitable 
 liquor. 
 
 SALAD, GERMAN. 
 
 Throw a pound of sauer kraut into boiling" 
 water, and let it remain for five minutes ; drain 
 and cool it. Put.the same weight of red pickled 
 
SAL 
 
 748 
 
 SAL 
 
 cabbage into cold water. Brain it, and shred 
 £neljr with the sauer kraut. Mix the two 
 thoroughly, and add one ounce of grated horse- 
 xadish, one table-spoonful of chopped chervil, 
 and two half-boilea onions finely minced. Just 
 before serving the salad, toss the whole lightly 
 together with six table-spoonfuls of oil, a table- 
 spoonful of vinegar, and a little pepper and salt. 
 
 SALAD HERBS. 
 
 Speaking of plants used al3 salad Dr. Lau- 
 tester remarks : — " First there is the lettuce 
 {Lactuca sativa). This plant is a cultivated 
 variety of the wild lettuce (Lactuca virosa). It 
 contains in its juice an active principle, which 
 in large quantities exercises a narcotic influence 
 on the human system. The water-cress (iVos- 
 turtium officinal^. This plant grows wild in 
 ditches and damp places in this country, and is 
 also extensively cultivated in the neighbourhood 
 of London. It contains a large quantity of 
 mineral matter, and in some districts is found to 
 contain iodine. The endive (Cichorium Endivia). 
 This plant is probably a variety of the common 
 chicory {Cichorium Intybus). It is cultivated 
 extensively on the Continent, and its blanched 
 leaves are eaten as a salad. It can be obtained 
 . in the winter. It has a slightly bitter taste, 
 and acts as a tonic on the system. Celery is the 
 Apium gravioUns. When wild this plant con- 
 tains an acrid principle, which is poisonous, but 
 by culture its stalks are blanched, and it then 
 becomes an agreeable and valuable article of 
 food. The garden-cress is the Lepidium sativum. 
 'j%is plant is not a native of Great Britain, but 
 it is easily cultivated and extensively used as an 
 early spring salad. The seeds are sown with 
 those of mustard (Sinapis nigra and Sinapis 
 alha), and the young plants are both eaten to- 
 gether under the name of ' mustard and cress.' 
 The red beet, the Btta vulgaris of botanists. 
 There are two varieties of this plant used as 
 salad. First, a variety called la Carde, which 
 has a small root and large leaves; the latter 
 are eaten in the same way as lettuce. The other 
 variety is called Betterave, in which the roots 
 are largely developed. The roots are boiled and 
 sliced, and eaten with vinegar, oil, pepper, and 
 salt. The radish is the Rapharius Raphanis- 
 trum. The roots of this plant are eaten 
 uncooked, and, like the family to which they 
 belong, contain a subacrid oil, which gives 
 them an agreeable flavour. They are less di- 
 gestible than many other plants eaten as salad. 
 Lamb's lettuce, or corn-salad, is the Valerianella 
 olitoria. This plant is a native of Great Britain, 
 and is often cultivated for use as a salad. The 
 leaves for this purpose should be cut young or 
 they will have a disagreeable bitter taste. The 
 common sorrel is the Eumex acetosa. The acid 
 taste of this plant depends on the presence of 
 oxalic acid. It is much used as a salad in 
 France. The common dandelion is the Leonto- 
 don Ta/raxacum. This plant, though very com- 
 mon in England, is not much used as a salad. 
 It has, however, when young, the flavour and 
 properties of lettuce, and is extensively em- 
 ployed as a salad on the Continent." 
 
 SALAD HERBS, SMALL. 
 
 There are certain plants which are employed, 
 chiefly in the seed leaf, or when very young, for 
 
 the purpose of procuring salads throughout th« 
 year, or at times and in situations when no 
 others can be had. Some of these are also 
 mixed with the larger salad plants to improve 
 their flavour or wholesome qualities. The sort 
 most in use in this country are mustard, cresses, 
 rape, turnip, radish, white cabbage, cabbage- 
 lettuce, etc. Some of these may be procured 
 at all seasons of the year, and are cut when 
 not over a week or ten days old. Being of a 
 warm relish, if allowed to grow too large, so as 
 to run into the rough leaf, they become of a 
 disagreeably strong, hot tastei' 
 
 Mustard is remarkable for the rapidity of its 
 growth, and on this account is frequently sown 
 in the n'ound, as a small salad, together with 
 cress. The seeds strewed on wet flannel, and 
 placed in a warm situation, even by the fireside, 
 frequently shoot out their seed-leaves in a day 
 or two — sometimes even in a few hours — a cir- 
 cumstance which is frequently taken advantage 
 of in long voyages. Ships going to the East 
 Indies used to have boxes placed on the deck 
 wherein mustard and cress were sowed for the 
 purpose of getting salad on the voyage; and 
 the number of crops thus raised was surprising. 
 
 The garden-cress stands at the head of the 
 small-salad plants, and is much cultivated for 
 this purpose. It has a very warm but pleasant 
 flavour. By the aid of a lit0e artificial heat, 
 it may be had fresh all through the winter. 
 The variety known as American cress grows 
 wild in Great Britain on moist or watery 
 ground. It is aromatic and pungent, but rather 
 bitter. It is sometimes cultivated for winter 
 and e'arly spring salad. It occasionally goes 
 under the name of French cress. The winter 
 cress is also found wild in this country in watery 
 spots and slow-running streams. In flavour 
 and use it much resembles the last. 
 
 The water-cress has long been highly es- 
 teemed. It is found in great abundance on the 
 edges of running streams, preferring clean 
 water to that which is muddy. Care must be 
 taken to distinguish it from vie water-parsnip, 
 which often grows with it, and which la 
 poisonous. 
 
 Burnet, another small-salad herb, is a peren- 
 nial plant indigenous to Britain, and found in 
 dry, upland, calcareous soils. It is-occasionally 
 cultivated in gardens. The leaves of the burnet 
 are used in salads; when lightly bruised, they 
 smell like cucumber. They have a somewhat 
 warm taste. 
 
 Rape, a native of Britain, is sometimes grown 
 in gardens, and its leaves are used for salad in 
 the same way as mustard and cress, 
 
 SALAD, HUNGARIAN. 
 
 Put any sort of cooked vegetables in a dish, 
 the greater the variety the better. Season them 
 a little, and just sprinkle with oil and lemon- 
 juice. For a pint of vegetables allow about a 
 gill of sauce made as follows. Take the yolks 
 of three raw eggs, a. table-spoonful of vinegar, 
 the same of any pale meat stock or water, a 
 pinch of salt and pepper, and two table-spoon- 
 fuls of oil. The whole of the ingredients, ex- 
 cept the oil, are to be put in an enamelled 
 saucepan, which should be set in another con- 
 taining hot water; then the sauce is stirred 
 
SAL 
 
 749 
 
 SAL 
 
 until thick; the water in the lower pan should 
 only reach simmering point, therefore the fire 
 must be slow. As soon as taken from the fire 
 the pan must be set in another one containing 
 cold water, and the stirring continued until 
 the sauce is quite cold. The oil is then added 
 drop by drop. Pour over the vegetables, and 
 garnish with chopped hard-boiled eggs and 
 green herbs. Probable cost, uncertain. 
 
 SALAD, ITALIAN. 
 
 Cut some thin slices of beetroot with a 
 crimped cutter, season with oil and vinegar, 
 dust with mignonette pepper, sprinkle with the 
 chopped whites of some nard-boile'd eggs and 
 tiny fillets of anchovies that have lain for a 
 time in lemon-juice. Next take some stoned 
 olives, and fill the cavities with the pounded 
 yolks of eggs mixed with a little mayonnaise, 
 and put it in with a forcing-bag and pipe. These 
 look nice on a dish-paper round a mound of 
 green salad. One of the little piles should be 
 served to each person. Probable cost, uncertain. 
 SALAD MIXTURE. 
 
 Endeavour to have your salad-herbs as fresh 
 as possible ; if you suspect they are not " morn- 
 ing gathered," they will be much refreshed by 
 lying an hour or two in spring-water ; then care- 
 fully wash and pick them, and trim off all the 
 worm-eaten, slimy, cankered dry leaves; and, 
 after washing, let them remain a while in the 
 colander to drain; lastly, swing them gently 
 in a clean napkin. When properly picked 
 and cut, arrange them in the salad - dish. 
 Boil a couple of eggs for twelve minutes, and 
 put them m a basin of cold water for a little 
 while — the yolks must be quite cold and hard, 
 or they will not incorporate with the ingre- 
 dients. Eub them through a sieve With a 
 wooden spoon, and mix them with a table- 
 spoonful of water or fine double cream, then 
 add two table-spoonfuls of oil or melted butter ; 
 when these are well mixed, add, by degrees, a 
 tea-spoonful of salt or powdered lump sugar, 
 and the same of made mustard ; when these are 
 smoothly united, add very gradually three table- 
 spoonfuls of vinegar, rub it with the other in- 
 gredients till thoroughly incorporated with 
 them ; cut up the whites of the eggs, and garnish 
 the top of the salad with it. Let the sauce 
 remain at the bottom of the bowl, and do not 
 stir up the salad till it is to be eaten. We 
 recommend the eaters to be mindful of the duty 
 of mastication, without the due performance of 
 which all undressed vegetables are troublesome 
 company for the principal viscera, and some 
 are even dangerously indigestible. 
 
 SALAD MIXTURE, QUIHI. 
 
 Bub the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs with 
 the back of a wooden spoon till quite smooth, 
 and beat in drop by drop three dessert-spoonfuls 
 of fine salad-oil. Add, just as slowly, six des- 
 sert-spoonfuls of vinegar, four of mushroom 
 ketchup, three of anchovy essence, four salt- 
 spoonfuls of salt, and four of mixed mustard. 
 A spoonful of thick cream mixed with a well- 
 mashed floury potato will greatly improve this 
 salad. Wash the lettuce, dry it perfectly, shred 
 it finely, and just before it is wanted mix the 
 salad dressing lightly with it. Probable cost. 
 Is. 2d. 
 
 SALAD OF HERRINGS. 
 
 Soak a couple of pickled herrings in milk for 
 an hour to take out the salt. Bone them, and 
 tear the flesh into flakes. Mix with them half 
 a dozen cold boiled potatoes cut into slices as 
 for potato salad, and add a salt-spoonful of 
 finely - minced onion. Mix the ingredients 
 thoroughly, and work lightly into them a simple 
 salad dressing of oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper. 
 This salad should be a httle moist, therefore 
 add a spoonful or two pf milk to the dressing 
 if it is too dry. If liked, cold meat finely 
 minced, sour apples, and boiled beetroot may 
 be put into it. The dressing should be added 
 just before the salad is about to be served. 
 Probable cost of herrings. Id. to 2d. each. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persona. 
 
 SALAD OIL. 
 
 The source of this oil is the olive iptm. 
 europcea). The plant is cultivated extensively 
 in France, Italy, and Spain. When the fruit 
 is ripe it contains oil in great abundance. Be- 
 tween eleven and twelve thousand gallons of 
 this oil are annually imported into this country, 
 principally for consumption as a dressing in 
 salads. It is much more largely used on the 
 Continent, where it takes the place of butter. 
 It is a very wholesome article, and it would be 
 well if people in this country would cultivate 
 a taste for its use, especially in making salads. 
 " In this country," says a well-known authority, 
 " these very valuable adjuncts to our food are' 
 rendered exceedingly disagfreeable ; first, by 
 the want of drying the plant used; and in the 
 next by its being deluged with vinegar. A 
 salad properly prepared should have the leaves 
 of the plant used dried to such an extent that 
 they will readily absorb the dressing poured 
 over them, which should consist of two-thirds 
 or three-fourths olive oil. I need not also add 
 that the oil should not be rancid; but such is 
 the thorough carelessness with which these 
 articles are put on our tables, that in nine 
 cases out of ten the oil is rancid and unfit for 
 use. This, perhaps, accounts for the flood of 
 vinegar to drown its flavour." 
 
 SALAD, RED CABBAGE. 
 
 Take a red cabbage with a firm heart and 
 two heads of celery. Shred the best parts of 
 both finely, and mix them together. Work 
 them up lightly with a spoonful or two of good 
 salad sauce, garnish the dish with tufts of 
 celery, and then serve. 
 
 SALAD, ROMAN. 
 
 The Eomans used salad, and made it in this 
 way. Cultivated endive was cut small after 
 careful washing and draining, then gravy and 
 oil were poured over it ; finely-minced onions 
 were strewn over the whole, then a little vine- 
 gar and honey were added, and the salad was 
 sent to table. 
 SALADE RUSSE (Russian Safad). 
 
 Take one cauliflower, three small potatoes, 
 and two tomatoes, a carrot, a turnip, and some 
 French beans. Cook separately in salted water' 
 the various vegetables, previously prepared, the 
 carrot and turnip cut up into small dice or 
 stars, the cauliflower divided into sprigs or 
 buds, the potatoes cut into neat short strips: 
 
SAL 
 
 750 
 
 use the tomatoes in slices, raw. Wlien all are 
 cooked, drain well, and put in layers in a large 
 basin or salad-bowl. Season with pepper, salt, 
 and a pinch of castor sugar. Arrange the whole 
 of the ingredients in distinct sections or layers, 
 together with one truffle and two gherkins cut 
 into fine shreds. Cover each layer with mayon- 
 naise sauce. Smooth over neatly with mayon- 
 naise. Decorate according to fancy with 
 shredded smoked salmon, beetroot, olives, an- 
 chovies, capers, or truffles. Probable cost, 2s. 
 
 SALAD SANDWICHES. 
 
 Prepare the bread in the usual way, and have 
 ready some mustard and cress, water-cress, all 
 well washed and dried; put them into a bowl 
 with mayonnaise sauce, and when ready for 
 serving, spread the salad neatly between the 
 bread. 
 
 SALAD SANDWICHES (another way). 
 
 Take some thin slices of bread. Butter these 
 slightly, and just before they are to be eaten 
 lay between two of them a little salad, washed, 
 dried, and tossed lightly in mayonnaise sauce. 
 Press the sandwiches closely together, out them 
 into small neat pieces, and serve. 
 
 SALAD SAUCE. 
 
 Take the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, a 
 dessert-spoonful of grated Parmesan cheese, a 
 little made mustard, a dessert-spoonful of tar- 
 ragon vinegar, and a large spoonful of ketchup. 
 When well incorporated, add four spoonfuls of 
 salad oil and one spoonful of elder vinegar. 
 Beat so as to incorporate the oil with the other 
 ingredients. This mixture must not be poured 
 upon the lettuce or vegetables used in the salad, 
 but be left at the bottom, to be stirred up when 
 wanted. This method preserves the crispness 
 of the lettuce. Observe that the liquid ingre- 
 dients must be proportioned to the quantity of 
 vegetables used. 
 
 SALAD SAUCE, MAYONNAISE. 
 
 Put the yolk of an egg carefully freed from 
 the white into a basjn, and take away the 
 speck. Beat the yolk lightly, add a, pinch 
 of salt and a pinch of pepper, pour some oil 
 upon it, drop by drop at first, and at the same 
 time beat the sauce lightly and quickly. When 
 it begins to thicken slightly increase the quan- 
 tity of oil, and continue beating until it forms 
 a thick, smooth, yellow paste. Add gradually as 
 much white-wine vinegar as will suit the palate. 
 The quantity required will, of course, vary con- 
 siderably, according to individual taste. The 
 correct proportion is one tea-spoonful of vine- 
 gar to eight of oil. Keep the sauce in a cool 
 place till Wanted. A little tarragon_ vinegar 
 vnll greatly improve this excellent sauce. 
 
 SALAD SAUCE, TROUT IN. 
 
 Fry two or three trout in the usual way. Lay 
 them on blotting-paper to free them from fat, 
 and put them aside till cold. When they are to 
 be used lay them on a dish, pour some thick 
 salad sauce over them, and garnish the dish 
 with shredded chervil and chiveSj. or otherwise. 
 
 SALAD, STUFFED EGGS FOR. 
 
 Remove the skin and bone from three an- 
 chovies, pound the flesh in a mortar, and press 
 
 it through a sieve. If the anchovies are objec- 
 ted to, substitute for them two ounces of potted 
 ham and two ounces of veal and fat; bacon. 
 Boil six eggs for a quarter of an hour; put 
 them into cold water, then strip off the shell 
 and cut them into halves lengthwise. Take out 
 the hard yolks, and put them in a mortar with 
 a third of their bulk in fresh butter, the 
 pounded anchovies, a pinch of powdered mace, 
 and a pinch of cayenne. Pound all to a smooth 
 paste, press the mixture into the eggs in the 
 place where the yolks were, put the halves of 
 the eggs together to make them look whole 
 again, lay them on a dish, and surround them 
 with lettuce-hearts. Send salad cream to table 
 separately. 
 SALAD, SWEDISH. 
 
 Take a pickled herring, remove the skin and 
 bones, cut the flesh into dice, and mix with it 
 its bulk in cold cooked beef, boiled m)tatoes, 
 and sour juicy apples, all cut up small. Add 
 four anchovies, previously soaked in milk or 
 water for a short time, freed from skin and bone, 
 and torn into flakes, a table-spoonful of well- 
 drained capers, a table-spoonful of pickled gher- 
 kins chopped small, a table-spoonful of chopped 
 tarragon-leavis, two table-spoonfuls of chopped 
 chervil, and twenty stoned olives. Mix these 
 ingredients lightly, add some salad dressing of 
 oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt, and season the 
 preparation rather highly. If liked, the an- 
 chovies may be omitted and a dozen or more 
 of freshly-opened oysters may be laid upon the 
 mixture. 
 SALADS, WHOLESOMENESS OF. 
 
 For persons of weak digestion, salads as a 
 rule are not suited. When, however, the 
 stomach is equal to the work, they appear 
 generally to exercise a beneficial effect on the 
 system, particularly in the case of salads derived 
 from the tribe of the cruciferous plants, to which 
 the water-cress, radish, mustard, cress, scurvy- 
 grass, and such-like, belong. " Many persons," 
 says a medical writer, "with whom raw vege- 
 tables, such as salads, cucumbers, etc., in- 
 variably disagree if eaten 'undressed,' find the 
 addition of the ordinary salad or ' Florence ' oil 
 correct the tendency. In this country some in- 
 dividuals have a prejudice against the use of 
 oil. It is difficult to see why it should extend 
 to the beautiful preparation in question." 
 Salads are eaten as a condiment, not as an 
 article of aliment. They are of great use in 
 moderating the excitement of the system which 
 would be produced by a diet composed alto- 
 gether of animal food, particularly in hot 
 weather. They are also very effective as anti- 
 scorbutics. One should observe moderation, 
 however, in eating salads, and they should be 
 avoided by dyspeptic patients. 
 
 SALAD VINEGAR. 
 
 Take three ounces each of shallots, sweet 
 savory, chives, and tarragon. Bruise them in 
 a mortar, put them into a large stone jar, and 
 vrith them two table-spoonfms of dried and 
 powdered mint, and the same of balm. Pour 
 over all a gallon of the best vinegar, cork the 
 bottle securely, and put it in the sun.- At the 
 end of a fortnight strain the vinegar through 
 a filtering-bag, put it into small bottles, cork 
 
SAL 
 
 T51 
 
 SAL 
 
 these tightly, and use the vinegar for saladB, 
 etc., instead, of ordinary vinegar. 
 
 SALAD, WINTER. 
 
 Take two lettuces and wash them thoroughly, 
 after taking off the outer leaves. Tear them 
 up finely, and proceed in the same manner with 
 the half of an endive. Peel and slice a. small 
 boiled beetroot, and well wash a little mustard 
 and cress, first cutting off the stalks. Mix the 
 salad together, and dress with mayonnaise or 
 plain dressing. Probable cost, 6d., without the 
 dressing. 
 
 SALAMANDER. 
 
 This is 8fn instrument which is, after being 
 made red-hot, used to brown anything wanting 
 colour. An old iron fire-shovel, . if heated 
 thoroughly and held over the article to be 
 browned, will answer the same purpose. Price, 
 €s. to 12s. 
 
 SALERATUS. 
 
 Saleratus is a carbonate of potash used in 
 cookery to make bread or cakes light. It should 
 be kept in a wooden box with a cover, and no 
 moisture should be allowed to reach it, as very 
 little will spread through and dissolve a large 
 quantity. Saleratus should be powdered and 
 dissolved in a little hot water before it is put 
 into the bread. Half a tea-spoonful dissolved 
 in water and added to a pound cake will ensure 
 its being light. 
 
 SALLYLUNNS. 
 
 Sallylunns are served at breakfast or tea, and 
 are generally much liked. They should be put 
 on the table on a hot plate very hot and well 
 buttered. If they are not to be used at once 
 after being baked, it will be well not to over- 
 bake them, as they will need to be heated a 
 second time. They are considered very indi- 
 gestible. They may be made in either of the 
 following ways. Hub half a pound of butter 
 into two pounds of flour. Add a tea-spoonful 
 of salt, a quarter of a pint of fresh yeast mixed 
 with a pint of lukewarm milk, and three well- 
 beaten eggs. Cover the pan, and let the con- 
 tents rise till light. Make the dough into thick 
 cakes about five inches in diameter. Bake in a 
 quick oven. Or, rub two ounces of butter into a 
 pound of flour. Add a pinch of salt, and pour in 
 very slowly a table-spoonful of fresh yeast which 
 has been mixed with half a pint of warm milk. 
 Beat the batter with a fork or spoon as the 
 milk is poured in, add the yolks of two eggs, 
 and set the dough near the fire to rise. Butter 
 the tins, fill them with the dough, and bake in 
 » quick oven. To prepare the sallylunns, make 
 them hot, divide them into three slices, and 
 butter these liberally. If a very rich cake is 
 required, cream may be used instead of milk. 
 Time to bake, about twenty minutes. 
 SALLYLUNNS (CarSme's recipe). 
 
 Sift twelve ounces of flour, separate a fourth 
 part, in which make a hollow, put in it nearly 
 half an ounce of yeast and a little lukewarm 
 cream; mix the flour gradually with this, and 
 put it into a small stewpan to rise (the paste 
 should be very soft). When double its first size, 
 form the remaining flour in the requisite man- 
 ner, and put in the centre a quarter of an ounce 
 of salt, one ounce of pounded sugar, four yolks 
 
 of eggs, five ounces of butter made warm only, 
 and a gill of lukewarm craam ; stir this mixture, 
 mingling the flour with the liquid until of a 
 soft consistaicy, and beat the paste for some 
 minutes with the palm of the hand; then, if 
 perfect, add the leaven, and work it yet some 
 minutes to render it smooth and elastic ; put it 
 into a plain mould six inches wide and five 
 inches high, well buttered, and set it in a 
 proper place to ferment; when double its origi- 
 nal volume, wash the top with egg, and place 
 it in a quick oven for an hour; when serving, 
 divide it horizontally about the centre, turn the 
 top upside down, and the cake should present 
 the appearance of a honeycomb ; throw on it a 
 pinch of salt, and butter it with five ounces of 
 the best butter, putting equal quantities on 
 each half ; put the top on again, and serve hot. 
 SALLYLUNNS (another way). 
 
 Take two pounds of flour, one pint of milk, 
 four eggs, and two spoonfuls of yeast; make a 
 paste with these ingredients, and work until 
 well risen. Then knead into it a pound of 
 butter and a little salt; let it stand an hour, 
 then bake, and rasp the top. A little pounded 
 sugar to taste may be added to the above in- 
 gredients. 
 
 SALMAGUNDI. 
 
 A salmagundi is a sort of mosaic made with 
 pickled herring, cold dressed chicken, salt beef, 
 radishes, endive, olives, etc., all arranged with 
 regard to contrast in colour as well as flavour, 
 and served with oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt. 
 The following is a good recipe for a salma- 
 gundi. Take a large round dish; place in 
 the centre a bunch of fresh endive, and lay 
 round it" strips of herring or anchovy, inter- 
 spersed with neat slices from the breast of a 
 chicken. Put round these a band of hard- 
 boiled yolk of egg chopped small, then one 
 of green parsley, then slices of red beet oi 
 tongue, then the white of egg, and lastly a 
 garland of sprigs of water-cress. Insert trimmed 
 olives, green capers, radishes, barberries, etc., 
 wherever they will be most effective. Serve with 
 salad sauce. Sometimes the herrings for a sal- 
 magundi are opened, and the flesh is taken out 
 ^ without injuring the skin. It is then minced 
 with an equal quantity of cold chicken and 
 grated ham or tongue, seasoned rather highly, 
 and put back into the skins till they look plump 
 and of a good shape, 
 SALMAGUNDI (another way). 
 
 Take cold fowl, or turkey, or veal, or all three 
 together. Chop the meat very small, separating 
 the white from the brown, and putting among 
 the latter the brown part of the veal, if it be 
 roasted. By the brown meat is understood the 
 legs and backs of the poultry. Chop likewise 
 the lean of some cold ham, a few boned an- 
 chovies washed, a handful of picked parsley, 
 half a dozen shallots, some pickled gherkins, 
 the yolks and whites separate of six hard-boiled 
 eggs, and some roasted beetroot, after it has 
 become cold. Now butter a basin, and place 
 it with the bottom upwards upon a dish. Lay 
 round this basin a ring of chopped white meat 
 an inch and a half wide and about an inch 
 high; then lay upon this a ring of ham, then 
 a ring of brown meat, then one of white of 
 
SAL 
 
 7S2 
 
 SAL 
 
 egg, than one of meat, then one of yolk of egg, 
 then onn of parsley, then one of anchovies, and 
 80 on, until the whole of the materials are 
 used up and the basin is covered, crowning 
 the whole with a roof of beetroot garnished with 
 a few pickled mushrooms. The sauce must be 
 served up in a sauce tureen. It is made thus. 
 Bub a couple of good tea-spoonfuls of strong 
 mustard from the mustard-pot with three table- 
 spoonfuls of salad-oil, some salt, and a little 
 cayenne pepper. When it has become a stiff 
 paste, add gradually one table-spoonful of 
 white-wine vinegar, the juice of three of four 
 lemons, a dessert-spoonful of mushroom ket- 
 chup, two table-spoonfuls of raw capers, and 
 a tea-spoonful of soy. Should the sauce not 
 be sufficiently thin, add more lemon-juice or 
 vinegar. 
 
 SALMI. 
 
 A salmi is simply a superior ragout of game 
 or wild fowl. It differs from a hash in this, 
 that the hash is made from the remains of 
 dressed game, the salmi from game which has 
 been half dressed for the purpose, and is served 
 in rich ^ravy or sauce. Salmis are favourite 
 dishes with epicures. 
 
 SALMI, COLD (for suppers, etc.) 
 
 Boast a couple of partridges, a pheasant, or 
 any other game. Cut them into neat joints, 
 and with the bones and trimmings make a 
 salmi sauce, according to the recipe given a 
 little farther on. When this is pleasantly 
 flavoured, mix with it a third of its quantity in 
 very stiff aspic jelly. Cover the joints of the 
 birds thickly with this, and let it get cold and 
 stiff upon them. Pile them high on a dish, and 
 garnish with clear aspic jelly cut into 'dice. 
 
 SALMI, HUNTER'S. 
 
 Divide a half-roasted pheasant or partridge 
 into neat joints. Carefully remove the skin 
 and sinews, and put the pieces into a saucepan. 
 Pour over them a glassful of Lucca oil, and add 
 a glassful of sherry or Madeira, the grated rind 
 and juice of a lemon, and a little salt and 
 cayenne. Let the game heat slowly over a 
 gentle fire, and when the joints are hot through 
 drain them, and serve with fried sippets. 
 
 SALMI OF GAME OR WILD FOWL, 
 
 Put the birds down to the fire as for roasting, 
 and take them up when they are less than half 
 done. Cut them into neat pieces, and remove 
 the skin, fat, and sinew from the legs, wings, 
 and breasts. Place the joints side by side in a 
 clean saucepan, cover them, and keep them in 
 a cool place till wanted. Take a quarter of a 
 pound of uncooked lean ham, mince it finely, 
 put it into a well-tinned saucepan, and shake it 
 over the fire for three or four minutes with a 
 slice of fresh butter. Add to it a dozen button 
 mushrooms, a scraped carrot, a handful of pars- 
 ley, a sprig of thyme, three shallots (or more), 
 finely minced, four cloves, two bay-leaves, a 
 T)lade of mace, and half a tea-spoonful of pepper- 
 corns. Mix these ingredients, and stir them 
 over a gehtle fire till the sides of the saucepan 
 appear slightly coloured, dredge a table-spoon- 
 ful of flour over the contents, and let it brown a 
 little, then pour in gradually a pint of good veal 
 stock and two gladsfuls of sherry. Put in the 
 
 bruised bodies of the birds, let the sance boil up, 
 then draw the saucepan to the side, and let its 
 contents simmer gently until the sauce is smooth, 
 thick, and pleasantly flavoured. Carefully re- 
 move the scum as it rises. Clear the sauce from 
 fat, strain, pour it over the joints of game in. 
 the saucepan, let these heat in it very slowly, 
 and when the liquid is just about to boil, dish 
 them. Poiur 'the sauce over the game, and 
 garnish the dish with fried sippets. The salmi 
 may be made less expensive by the omission of 
 the mushrooms and wine. When- moor fowl or 
 black game are used, care should be taken to 
 remove the bitter spongy substance from the 
 body of the birds, if they have been well hung, 
 or the flavour of the salmis will be spoilt. 
 Time, an hour to an hour and a half to simmer 
 the sauce. 
 
 SALMI OF PARTRIDGES. WITH TRUFFLES. 
 
 Truss two or three partridges. Put them into 
 a stewpan with butter and a few trimmings of 
 fat bacon ; add the necks and gizzards, and 
 fry them on a brisk fire for five or six minutes. 
 Withdraw them to a moderate fire, cooking them 
 with live embers on the lid of the vessel ; let the 
 birds half cool, and cut each of them up into five 
 pieces, trim the skin away, and place the joints 
 in a stevrpan. Fry in butter the livers of the 
 partridges, with two chickens' livers, pound 
 and pass them through a sieve. With the backs 
 and trimmings of the partridges prepare a little 
 gravy. Skim off the fat, reduce the broth to half- 
 glaze, and add to it three gills of brown sauce ; 
 let the sauce boil up, and remove it back to 
 clarify; skim again, and pass it through a fine 
 sieve. With this sauce dilute gradually the 
 puree of liver, pour it over tEe pieces of par- 
 tridge, which warm without allowing to boil, 
 and dish up. On the other hand, cut some 
 bread croutons of round shape and half an inch 
 thick, make a circular incision on one side, fry 
 them in butter, empty them of the crumb, and 
 fill the void with salpifon of truffles cooked, 
 with a little Madeira and a little melted glaz6. 
 Mask the partridges with this sauce, and dish 
 the croutons all round. 
 SALMI, PLAIN. 
 
 Take a cold cooked pheasant (or a couple qf 
 partridges will do) from which little of the flesh 
 has been cut. Divide it into neat joints free 
 from skin, and lay these side by side in a sauce- 
 pan. Put into another saucepan the well-bruised 
 bones and trimmings of the bird, a sliced onion, 
 a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay- 
 leaf, six or eight peppercorns, a glassful of 
 sherry, and an inch of lemon-rind. Boil for two 
 minutes, then add a pint of stock and a spoon- 
 ful of brown thickening. Simmer all gently 
 together till the sauce is pleasantly flavoured, 
 smooth, and of the consistency of cream. Strain 
 it over the pieces of pheasant, and heat slowly. 
 Warm all gently together till the sauce is on 
 the point of boiling, then lift the jointed bird 
 upon a dish, pour the sauce over it, garnish with 
 fried sippets, and serve. Time, one hour or 
 more. Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 SALMI SAUCE. 
 
 This is' a sauce for salmi of partridges, 
 pheasants, etc. Take four shallots and a carrot 
 cut into dice, some parsley-roots, a few bits 
 
oAL. 
 
 753 
 
 8AU 
 
 of ham, a' clove, two or three leaves of mace, 
 the- quarter of a bay-leaf, a little thyme, and 
 a small piece of butter, with a few mushrooms. 
 Put thp whole into a stewpan over a gentle fire ; 
 let them fry till you perceive the stewpan is 
 coloured all round. Then moisten with half a 
 pint of Madeira and a very small lump of 
 sugar. Let the liquor reduce to one-half. Put 
 in six spoonfuls of Spanish sauce, and the trim- 
 mings of the partridges. Let them stew for an 
 hour on the corner of the stove. Skim the fat 
 off, taste whether the sauce be seasoned enough ; 
 strain it over the members, make it hot without 
 boiling; reduce it, strain it through a tamis; 
 then cover the salmi with it. 
 
 SALMI SAUCE (another way). 
 
 Scrape the red part of a carrot, and put the 
 pulp .into a saucepan with a bay-leaf, a bunch 
 of parsley, a sprig of thyme, three or four 
 pieces of bacon or blanched bacon-rind, three 
 shallots chopped fine, and the bruised trim- 
 niings of the game to be used for the salmi. 
 Add a slice of fresh butter, or a table-spoonful 
 of Lucca oil, and stir the ingredients over the 
 fire till they are lightly browned. Moisten them 
 gradually with half a pint of good brown 
 sauce and a glassful of sherry and Madeira. 
 Stew all gently together till the sauce is very 
 good, skim and strain it, season with pepper and 
 salt, and it will be ready for the game. Time, 
 one hour or more. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 SALMI SAUCE (another way). 
 
 Required : A pint of brown sauce, a, glass 
 of Madeira, a tea-spoonful of red currant 
 jelly, and the same of tomato ketchup, a 
 shredded shallot, two ounces of mushrooms, 
 a bunch of herbs, seasoning and butter. Melt 
 the butter, fry the herbs, shallot and chopped 
 mushrooms a rich brown; add a little orange- 
 juice and a table-spoonful of brown stock; boil 
 gently for ten minutes. Then add brown 
 sauce, salt, pepper cayenne, ketchup, and 
 jelly; boil and skim as long as necessary, put 
 in the wine, and when hot, strain into a sauce- 
 pan. It is then ready for any kind of game. 
 
 If preferred, instead of Madeira a. glass of 
 port or claret may be put in. 
 
 Another way is to mix together a gill of 
 brown stock, a gill of brown sauce, and half 
 a glass of claret with a tea^spoonful of orange- 
 juice. 
 
 Add a few olives, turned and blanched, boil 
 for twenty minutes very gently, and season to 
 taste and serve. 
 
 SALMON. 
 
 The salmon, according to Izaak Walton, is the 
 king of fresh-water fish. It is called a river 
 fish, because it is generally caught in rivers, 
 and the river is its birthplace; but the sea is 
 its home and its pasture-ground, and to this 
 it must return periodically to renew its strength 
 or die. In fact, it inhabits fresh and salt water 
 alternately, spending its winter in the sea and 
 its summer in the river. Moreover, as the 
 swallow returns to the roof or shed that gave it 
 shelter, so does the salmon to the gravelly 
 river's bed where it first saw the light. This 
 fact baa been repeatedly proved, and involves 
 important consequences. If all the salmon in 
 2 W 
 
 a river are caught, the river will be from that 
 time salmonless, unless it can be re-stocked 
 with young salmon, who, after being reared in 
 it, will at the proper age, find their way to the 
 sea but return to the river again. Certainly no 
 stranger salmon cruising along the coast will 
 mistake that river's mouth for its own river*^ 
 mouth. This fact has been already successfully 
 taken advantage of, and salmon have been 
 naturalised in rivers where formerly there were 
 no signs of them. 
 
 Salmon axe never found in warm latitudes. 
 They are distributed over the North of Europe 
 and Asia, and are abundant, and even compara- 
 tively cheap, in some parts of North America. 
 The price is kept up, however, by the facility 
 with which the fish is packed in ice and sent to 
 a distance by rail, or tinned, smoked, and other- 
 wise preserved. The penny-a-pound times, 
 when apprentices and servants refused to eat 
 salmon more than three times a week, are gone 
 for ever. 
 
 The flesh of the salmon is rich and delicious 
 in flavour. To be eaten in perfection it should 
 be cooked before it has lost a tide. When this 
 is done there will be found between the flakes a 
 white creamy substance which is very highly 
 esteemed. Nevertheless, the fish when in this 
 condition is very indigestible, and it is much 
 more wholesome when it has been kept a day or 
 two. Then the curd undergoes a change, and 
 melts down, and though less delicate in flavour, 
 the fish becomes richer and much more whole- 
 some. The flesh of the male has the best flavour, 
 and has more curd than that of the female. 
 
 Salmon is in season from the beginning of 
 February to the end of August. It is cheapest 
 in July and August. No other fish can be 
 cooked in so many different ways. It requires 
 to be well done; when under-done it is wholly 
 uneatable. 
 SALMON (k I'Anemande). 
 
 Cut the fish into slices two inches thick, leav- 
 •ing a small portion of fish to the head, and the 
 tail four inches long; take away all the blood 
 from the inside, throw some salt over the slices 
 very equally, and half an hour afterwards turn 
 them. Leave them thus for fifteen or twenty 
 minutes, then wash, and drain them upon nap- 
 kins; butter a fish-strainer, place the slices 
 upon it flat, and cover the greater part of the 
 flesh with slices of lemon out very thin and the 
 pips taken out ; add here and there four large 
 shallots, sliced, whole white pepper, and pars- 
 ley-roots cut in flllets. Two hours before it is 
 to be served put the fish into the kettle, and 
 place it over a bed of live ashes, put fire also 
 on the top ; after thirty or forty minutes un- 
 cover the fish, and observe that it should be 
 firm if done sufliciently. Take it out, and let 
 it cool. When serving' take away the shallots 
 and a great part of the parsley-roots, dish the 
 salmon on a napkin, commencing with the head 
 and afterwards putting down the slices accord- 
 ing to their size, to form the fish of its. original 
 shape, and surround it with small groups of 
 parsley; having dished it, pour into the kettle 
 four spoonfuls of hot consomme to collect all 
 the essence of the salmon, which pass through 
 a silk sieve. Let this be well seasoned, and 
 serv? it in boats. 
 
SAL 
 
 SALMON (i I'Amiral), Soyer's recipe. « 
 
 Truss a small salmon in the form' of the letter 
 S, and boil it in the usual way ; dish it without 
 a napkin, and have ready the foUoTping sauee. 
 Peel four onions, cut them in slices, and put 
 them into a stewpan with six table-spoonfuls of 
 salad-oil ; fry them a light brown colour, then 
 pour off the oil, and add two glassfuls of port 
 wine, three cloves, one blade of mace, a sprig 
 of thyme, a bay-leaf, pne table-spoonful of salt, 
 two of sugar, twenty of brown sauce, and six 
 of brown gravy; reduce this mixture over a 
 sharp fire for a quarter of an hour, rub it 
 through a tamis, and place it again in a stew- 
 pan ; boil it again a short time, and finish with 
 one ounce of anchovy butter and two spoon- 
 fuls of Harvey Sauce; then place a border 
 of mashed potatoes round the fish, upon which 
 dish a border of quenelles of whiting, and 
 upon every other quenelle stick a prawn, pour 
 the sauce over the fish, and a mazarine sauce 
 over the quenelles; serve very hot. To make 
 the sauce a la Mazarine, take all the spawn 
 from two fine hen lobsters ; pound it well in 
 the mortar, and mix it with half a pound of 
 fresh butter; rub it through a hair sieve, place 
 it upon ice till firm, then put it in a stewpan 
 with the yolks of four eggs, a little pepper, 
 half a tea-spoonful of salt, and four table- 
 spoonfuls of lemon-juice, place it over the fire, 
 and proceed as for Dutch sauce, adding the 
 same quantity of melted butter and also two 
 tearspoonfuls of essence of anchovy. Pass it 
 through a tamis into a clean stewpan to make 
 it hot. 
 
 SALMON (4 la Danois), Danish mode. 
 
 Cut the salmon in slices as directed in the 
 recipe Salmon a l'Allemandb, boil it In water 
 with a little salt, and dish it in its original form, 
 as directed in the recipe named; garnish with 
 potatoes plainly boiled, and serve in sauce-boats 
 melted butter mixed with anchovy butter. 
 
 SALMON (i la Genevese). 
 
 Divide a moderate-sized salmon into three 
 parts. Boil these in the usual way, and when 
 they are done enough scrape the scales from 
 the fish, and lay the pieces of salmon on a dish, 
 in a line, about an inch apart from one another. 
 Have ready prepared some good Genevese sauce, 
 pour some of this over the fish, and send the 
 rest to table in a tureen. The sauce may be 
 prepared as follows. Mince finely a quarter of 
 a pound of uncooked lean ham. Put this into 
 a saucepan with the red part of a small carrot 
 scraped to pulp with a sharp knife, a blade of 
 mace, three cloves, a bunch of parsley, a sprig 
 of thyme, and a slice of fresh butter. Cover 
 the saucepan closely, and let its contents steam 
 very gently for three-quarters of an hour. 
 Dredge a tea-spoonful of flour over the prepara- 
 tion, rub out the lumps, then moisten the whole 
 very gradually with a pint of good veal stock. 
 Simmer the sauce for an hour longer, strain, 
 and skim it, put it into a clean saucepan, add 
 a spoonful of brown thickening, and when it is 
 smooth and thick add two table-spoonfuls of 
 lemon-juice, a tea-spoonful of essence of an- 
 chovies, a wine-glassful of good sherry, and a 
 little salt or cayenne. Time to make the sauce, 
 two hours. Or, lay a small slice of fresh butter 
 
 7S4 
 
 SAL 
 
 in a saucepan, and when it is dissolved put in 
 with it a moderate-sized onion or two saallots 
 finely minced, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of 
 thyme, two bay-leaves, a small blade of mace, 
 and a little pepper and salt. Stir these ingre- 
 dients over a gentle fire for ten minutes, then 
 moisten gradually with hVlf a tumblerful of 
 sherry or Madeira, and let them simmer gently 
 for half an hour. Take two slices of salmon a 
 little more than an inch thick. Put them into 
 a separate saucepan, and strain the sauce over 
 them. Stew the fish gently in this, and when it 
 is done enough, which it will be when it will 
 leave the bone easily, pour off the sauce into 
 another saucepan, leaving only as much as will 
 keep the salmon from burning. Put with the 
 sauce half a pint of strong veal stock, a tea- 
 spoonful of essence of anchovies, the strained 
 juice of a lemon, and a tea-spoonful of brown 
 thickening. Boil the sauce till it is smooth and 
 thick, and add pepper and salt. Lift the sal- 
 mon on to a hot dish, pour part of the sauce over 
 it, and send the rest to table in a tureen. Time, 
 an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half. 
 Probable cost for this quantity, 4s. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. 
 
 SALMON Ik la Genevoise), M. Uae's recipe. 
 
 "Take a few shallots, some roots of parsley, 
 a bunch of ditto seasoned with spices, thyme, 
 bay-leaves, and a few carrots. Let the whole 
 be lightly fried in a little butter, then moisten 
 with white wine (Madeira for preference) and 
 allow to boil for three-quarters of an hour. 
 When this (called the marinade) is done, drain 
 it through a tamis over the fish, which stew in 
 this seasoning. As soon as the fish is suf- 
 ficiently stewed, drain it, pick it well of all the 
 scales, and return it to the vessel wherein it 
 was boiled; put with it some of the liquor to 
 keep it hot. Now reduce some of the marinade 
 with a little strong gravy or stock, skim all the 
 fat off, and then throw in a good piece of butter 
 kneaded in flour and a little essence of an- 
 chovies, all which run over the salmon after 
 having drained it. Some will have lemon-juice 
 to it, which is a matter of taste." 
 SALMON (ii la Genevoise), another way. 
 
 Take a good slice of salmon, and put it in a 
 fish-kettle with shallot, chopped parsley, mush- 
 rooms, salt, and spice to taste, and an equal 
 quantity of broth and red wine. Boil the fish, 
 and when done enough take it out; have ready 
 in a saucepan a piece of butter rolled in two 
 spoonfuls of flour, thinned with some of the 
 liquor of the fish, let this sauce boil, then pour 
 it over the salmon, and serve. 
 
 SALMON (4 I'Indienne). 
 
 Prepare the cutlets as for Saimon a la 
 MiLANAiSE. Dip them into clarified butter, 
 and sprinkle over them a savoury mixture, 
 made with a table-spoonful of baked flour, a 
 tea-spoonful of curry-powder, and a pinch of 
 salt. Fry in plenty of hpt fat till the flesh will 
 leave the bone easily, then drain the cutlets 
 on blotting-paper, and serve on a. hot dish, with 
 sauce j5repared as follows poured over and 
 arotmd them. Mince four shallots very finely, 
 sprinkle a tea^spoonful of powdered sugar over 
 them, and -simmer till tender with a table- 
 spoonful of good vinegar. Pour over them a 
 
SAL 
 
 ,755 
 
 SAL 
 
 quarter of a phit of stock, let the sauce boil, 
 add a tea-spoonful of curry-paste, a table-spoon- 
 ful of pickle Tinegar, and three table-spoonfuls 
 of mixed Indian pickles cut into dice. Simmer 
 for a few minutes, and serve. Time to broil 
 ■the cutlets, fifteen to twenty minutes, according 
 to thickness. Probable cost, salmon, when 
 plentiful. Is. to Is. 4d. per pound. 
 SALMON (k fa Maftre d'H&tel). 
 
 Slice a moderate-sized onion into a dish. Put 
 with it five or six small sprigs of parsley and a 
 little pepper and salt, and pour over these a 
 little good salad-oil. Lay side by side in the 
 marinade three slices of salmon one and a half 
 inches thick. Let them remain for half an hour, 
 and turn them over once during that time. 
 Drain them, and broil over a gentle fire. Dish 
 •them neatly, garnish with plainly-boiled pota- 
 toes and green parsley, and send a little maitre 
 d'hotel sauce to table with them. This sauce 
 may be made i.s follows. Work an ounce of 
 flour smoothly with two ounces of fresh butter, 
 and add a quarter of a pint of milk, and a little 
 pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Stir the sauce 
 over the fire till it is hot and smooth ; add a 
 table-spoonful of chopped parsley and the 
 strained juice of half a lemon. When the sauce 
 is on the point of boiling, pour it into the 
 tureen, stir in it until dissolved a small piece 
 of fresh butter, and serve. Time to broil the 
 salmon, about twenty minutes. Probable cost. 
 Is. per pound when in full season. 
 
 SALMON (,k la Milanaise). 
 
 Take three or four slices of salmon, not over 
 thick; split each one into halves, and take 
 away the skin and bone. Dip the outlets into 
 sherry, lay them between sheets of buttered or 
 oiled writing-paper which have been rubbed 
 lightly with freshly-cut garlic, and twist the 
 edges securely. Broil gently over a clear fire, 
 and serve on a hot dish. Send to table with the 
 ■fish a sauce prepared as follows. Take two fil- 
 leted anchovies and put them into a saucepan 
 with a slice of fresh butter, two or three young 
 onions finely minced, and a table-spoonful of 
 minced mushroom. Stir these over the fire till 
 the onions begin to turn yellow, then dredge 
 ever them a table-spoonful of flour, pour in 
 a quarter of a pint of stock, and add a table- 
 spoonful of chilli vinegar, a spoonful of mixed 
 mustard, a little salt and cayenne, and half 
 a glassful of sherry. Simmer the sauce till 
 it is smooth and thick, stir in two spoonfuls of 
 bruised capers, boil a minute or two longer, 
 and serve. Time to broil the salmon, fifteen to 
 twenty minutes, according to thickness. 
 SALMON ik la Tartare). 
 
 Take two slices of salmon out of the middle 
 of a moderate-sized fish, each slice of the thick- 
 ness of three-quarters of an inch. Wash the 
 salmon lightly in salted water, and dry it 
 thoroughly. Brush it all over with the best 
 ealad-oil, season with salt and pepper, and broil 
 it on a gridiron over a gentle fire; taking care 
 to turn and baste it frequently. When it is 
 •done enough, which it will be when the flesh 
 leaves the bone on a slight pressure, place it on 
 a. cold dish, and pour round it a sauce prepared 
 as follows. Put the yolk of an egg, well freed 
 from, white, into a bowl; remove the speck. 
 
 add a pinch of, salt, and very gradually— first 
 by drops and afterwards by tea-spoontuls— 
 about four table-spoonfuls of good salad-oil. 
 Beat the sauce well between every addition. 
 Afterwards stir in, very gradually, three tea- 
 spoonfuls of good vinegar, a tea-spoonful of 
 chilli vinegar, and a tea-spoonful of tarragon 
 vinegar, and add a table-spoonful of dry mus- 
 tard, a tea-spoonful of chopped spring onions, 
 and a tea-spoonful of chopped chervil. If 
 liked, three or four gherkins, finely minced, or 
 a tea-spoonful of anchovy, may be added to 
 the sauce, which ought to be of the consistency 
 of thick cream. Garnish the salmon with 
 capers, gherkins,, or olives. If more convenient, 
 the salmon can be fried and served in the same 
 way; it is, however, best when broiled. To 
 prepare it for frying, mix a table-spoonful of 
 finely-grated bread-crumbs with the tenth part 
 of a nutmeg, grated, a small pinch of pepper 
 and a tea-spoonful of shredded parsley. Brush 
 the fish with clarified butter, and sprinkle the 
 seasoned crumbs over it. Fry in plenty of hot 
 fat till done enough. Drain it well, and serve 
 with cold lobster, shrimp, or caper sauce. Time 
 to broil the fish, twenty minutes; to fry it, 
 ten minutes. Probable cost, salmon. Is. per 
 pound when in full season. Sufficien^t for five 
 or six persons. 
 
 SALMON, ANCHOVY SAUCE FOR. 
 
 (See Anchovt Satjce foe Salmon). 
 
 SALMON AND GREEN PEAS. 
 
 Take two pounds of salmon and cut it into 
 three thick steaks, divide each steak into four 
 pieces, lay them in an enamelled saucepan with 
 a small spring onion, two sprigs of parsley, two 
 sprigs of mint, a, bay-leaf, and a pint of young 
 green peas, and place over them a small cucum- 
 ber cut into thin slices. Season ■with a little 
 cayenne and salt, and add a scant half-pint 
 of water, a glass of white wine, the juice of a 
 lemon, a table-spoonful of vinegar, and a des- 
 sert-spoonful of moist sugar. Stew gently for 
 three-quarters of an hour. Eemove the onion, 
 herbs, and bay-leaf. Dress the fish on a dish, 
 garnish with the peas and cucumber, and pour 
 the sauce over. Serve very hot with new 
 potatoes. 
 
 SALMON AND POTATO PIE. 
 
 Take the remains of cold boiled salmon. Free 
 the fiesh from skin and bone, divide it into small 
 pieces, and season each pound of them with a 
 tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of white 
 pepper, and a grain of cayenne. Butter 
 a shallow pie - dish, and spread over the 
 bottom a layer of potatoes which have 
 been mashed lightly with a little butter, milk, 
 and the yolk of an egg. Put the pieces of fish 
 on the potato, moisten with any fish sauce that 
 may be left, and cover with another layer of 
 potato. Bough the top of the pie with a fork, 
 and put it in a brisk oven till the surface is 
 brightly browned and the pie is quite hot. 
 Serve it in the dish in which it was baked. 
 Time to bake, about half an hour. Probable 
 cost. Is. 6d. Suflicient for four or five persons. 
 
 SALMON AU BLEU. 
 
 Put some slices of salmon in a fish-kettle, 
 with half a pint of port wine, carrots out into 
 
^At. 
 
 756 
 
 SAL 
 
 slices, onions, also sliced, four cloves, two bay- 
 leaves, a handful of parsley, two sprigs of 
 thyme, and salt and pepper to taste. Let the 
 salmon boil very gently until the flesh will 
 easily leave the bone. Take off the skin when 
 the fish is done, and mask it with a good butter 
 Sauce, in which put capers, sliced gherkins, and 
 a' little anchovy butter. 
 
 SALMON AU COURT BOUILLON. 
 
 Draw and clean a small salmon, score the 
 sides pretty deep; season with salt, pepper, a 
 few cloves, a little nutmeg, some sliced onions, 
 chives; parsley, sliced lemon, two or three bay- 
 leaves, and some basil. Work up a pound of 
 butter in a little flour, and put it in the belly 
 of the fish. Wrap the salmon in a napkin, bind 
 it wjth a pack-thread, and put it into a suf- 
 ficiently large fish-kettle. Pour over it equal 
 parts of wine (red or white), water, and vinegar, 
 in quantities sufficient to boil it, and set it over 
 a quick fire. When it is done enough, which 
 will be in twenty to thirty minutes, according to 
 size, take it off, and keep simmering slowly at 
 the side until you are ready to serve. Then 
 take up the fish, take it out of the napkin, and 
 lay it on another in the dish you intend to serve 
 it in. Garnish with parsley. 
 
 SALMON, BAKED. 
 
 Cut the fish into slices three-quarters of an 
 inch thick. Wash these lightly in salted water, 
 and dry them in a cloth. Take three-quarters 
 of a pint of good melted butter, mix with it a 
 pinch of cayenne, a table-spoonful of ketchup, 
 a. glassful of port, and one boned anchovy. 
 Stir the sauce over the fire till the anchovy is 
 dissolved; then strain it over the salmon. Cover 
 th^ dish, and put it into a moderately-heated 
 oven. When done enough, serve in a hot dish, 
 with the sauce poured round the salmon. Time 
 to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. Prob- 
 able cost of the salmon, from Is. per pound. 
 
 SALMON, BAKED (another way). 
 
 Take a moderate-sized salmon, scale and clean 
 it, and wipe it dry. Rub it well inside and out 
 with a mixture of pepper and salt, and fill it 
 with a little good veal forcemeat. Sew the 
 body up securely with soft cotton to keep in 
 the forcemeat. Lay a stand, such as is used to 
 bake meat upon, in a dripping-tin large enough 
 to hold the fish ; put the salmon upon it, dredge 
 with flour, and put little pieces of butter here 
 and there upon it. Pour a little water into 
 the tin, and bake the fish in a well-heated oven. 
 When the flesh will leave the bone easily, if 
 pressed with the finger, it is done enough. Send 
 boiled potatoes to table with the fish, and serve 
 melted butter, flavoured with lemon-juice, in a 
 tureen. Time to bake a moderate-sized fish, one 
 hour. Probable cost. Is. or more per pound. 
 Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 SALMON, BAKED, WITH CAPER OR TOMATO 
 SAUCE. 
 
 Take two slices from the middle of a 
 moderate-sized salmon. Wash them lightly in 
 salted water, and dry them perfectly in a clean 
 cloth. Sprinkle a little pepper, salt, and grated 
 nutmeg over them, and, if |iked, add a shallot 
 or two or three spring onions finely minced. 
 Place the slices of salmon side by side in a 
 
 baMng-dish, lay three ounces of butter in small 
 pieces here and there upon them, and put the 
 dish into a moderately-heated oven. Baste the 
 fish frequently, and when it is done enough 
 drain it, lay it upon a dish, pour a small portion 
 of caper sauce or tomato sauce over it, and send 
 more to table in a tureen. Tomato sauce is par- 
 ticularly to be recommended for salmon dressed 
 in this way. Time to bake, about three-quarters 
 of an hour. Probable cost, salmon, from Is. 
 per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 SALMON, BOILED. 
 
 The middle cut of the salmon is the best. A 
 whole salmon is seldom sent to table unless 
 the party be large. Scrape the scales carefully, 
 cut off the fins and gills, and cleanse the fish 
 thoroughly from blood. Put as much cold water 
 into the fish-kettle as will entirely cover the 
 fish, and with it six ounces of salt to each gal- 
 lon of water. Bring it quickly to the boil, 
 and skim carefully; then put in the fish, and 
 let it simmer gently; boil moderately fast, if 
 it is a small fish and thick, until done enough. 
 Take it up as soon as it is done, and if it is not 
 immediately wanted lay it on a fish-strainer, 
 and cover with hot cloths. If it is allowed to 
 remain in the water after it is done enough the 
 flavour will be spoilt ; unless it is thoroughly 
 done, it will be uneatable. In order to ascer- 
 tain whether it is done enough, press the flesh 
 lightly with the finger, and if it leaves the bone 
 easily it is done. Serve on a neatly-folded nap- 
 kin, garnish with lemon and parsley, horse- 
 radish and fennel, or fennel and red currants, 
 and send shrimp, lobster, parsley, anchovy, or 
 Dutch sauce to table with it. A dish of sliced 
 cucumber is usually served with boiled salmon. 
 If lobster sauce is chosen, the salmon should be 
 garnished with the coral. Time : experience 
 alone can teach a cook how long to boil fish, as 
 it varies so much in size and thickness; as a 
 general rule, eight minutes per pound may be 
 allowed for thick salmon, six minutes per pound 
 for thin salmon. Probable cost. Is. to Is. 4d. 
 per pound when in full season. Sufficient, one 
 pound and a quarter for three persons. 
 SALMON, BOILED (another way). 
 
 Put on a fish-kettle with spring water enough 
 to well cover the salmon you are going to code, 
 or the salmon will neither look nor taste well. 
 Boil the liver in a separate saucepan. When 
 the water boils, put in a handful of salt, take 
 off the scum as soon as it rises, lay the flah in 
 gently, draw it back at once, and keep it below 
 boiling point till done. The time required will 
 depend upon the thickness of the piece. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. to Is. 4d. per pound when plen- 
 tiful. 
 SALMON, BOILED (H la Mar^chal). 
 
 When the fish is cleaned, strew salt on both 
 sides of it; two hours after, perfectly wash, 
 drain, and lay it upon a fish-strainer well but- 
 tered; put it into the kettle with a good and 
 well-iieasoned mirepoix, moistened with three 
 bottles of champagne. Place it over a quick 
 fire, and when it boils throw the liquor well 
 upon the fish ; cover, and put it into a slow oven 
 to simmer. Every twenty minutes see that the 
 boiling is slow and regular, and mask the fish 
 with the mirepoix ; give it an hour and a half's 
 
SAL 
 
 757 
 
 SAI. 
 
 'boiling; then take it up, cover it with butter 
 made lukewarm and mixed with eight yolks of 
 eggs passed through a tamis. Strew over it 
 bread-crumbs mixed with one-fourth of their 
 quantity of Parmesan cheese, grated, pressing 
 them on the salmon with the made of a knife, 
 and scattering drops of melted butter upon 
 them, and give the whole a fine colour in the 
 oven. Dish without disarranging its surface, 
 and surround it with a RagoOt Financibke 
 with a, part of the same served in a sauce-boat. 
 SALMON, BOILED, PLAIN (M. Soyer's way). 
 
 "I prefer always dressing this fish in slices 
 from an inch to two inches in thickness, boiling 
 it in plenty of salt and water about twenty 
 minutes; the whole fish may be boiled, or the 
 head and shoulders of a large fish, but they 
 
 BOILED SALMON. 
 
 require longer boiling. Salmon eats firmer by 
 not being put into the water until boiling. 
 Dress the fish upon a napkin, and serve with 
 lobster sauce, shrimp sauce, or plain melted 
 butter in a boat with fresh sprigs of parsley 
 boiled a few minutes in it. A salmon weighing 
 about ten pounds wfll require an hour's gentle 
 boiling; a head and shoulders weighing six 
 pounds half an hour." 
 SALMON, BOILED, TO CARVE. 
 
 For an ordinary-sized fish, cut through the 
 fish in the direction A to B, and then make cross- 
 cuts as shown in the direction of c and d, the 
 former cut taking the thick, and the latter the 
 thin part of the fish, a portion of which should 
 be given to each person. If the fish is large, it 
 would be necessary to make one or more cuts 
 parallel with A and B. 
 SALMON BONE, BROILED. 
 
 If when a salmon is served the fiesh is not 
 taken too closely from ,the bone, the latter may 
 be cut into pieces three or four inches long, and, 
 lightly broiled over a clear fire, will make a 
 savoury morsel for breakfast. Salt and cayenne 
 pepper should be strewn over it before it is 
 broiled. 
 SALMON BOUCHEES. 
 
 Fry some small rounds of bread in butter 
 until brown; then put them on a hot dish, 
 and pile some scraped smoked salmon over. 
 Sprinkle with cayenne, add a little butter, then 
 put the rounds in the oven just long enough to 
 get thoroughly hot through. 
 
 SALMON, BRAISED. 
 
 Take a thick slice of salmon, weighing a little 
 more than three pounds, wash it in salted water, 
 and dry it in a cloth. Fold it in oiled paper, 
 place it on a drainer over a saucepan of fast- 
 
 boiling water, and let it steam until done- 
 enough. Drain it, and pour over it a sauce' 
 prepared as follows. Bruise a table-spoonful of 
 capers, and stir them into half a pint of good 
 melted butter. Add a tea-spoonfuf of anchovy, 
 a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, two tea-spoon- 
 fuls 01 soy, and a pinch of cayenne. Simmer 
 the sauce gently for three or four minutes, add 
 a glassful of sherry, and a dessert-spoonful of 
 lemon-juice, and serve. Time to steam the 
 salmon, three-quarters of an hour. Probable 
 cost, salmon. Is. to Is. 4d. per pound when 
 plentiful. 
 SALMON, BROILED. 
 
 Take one or more slices of salmon, not more 
 than half an inch thick. Rub them over with 
 oil, and sprinkle a little pepper and salt over 
 them. Rub a clean gridiron with fat, make it 
 hot, and place the slices of salmon upon it over 
 a clear fire. Turn the fish every five minutes till 
 it is done enough, basting it occasionally with 
 oil or butter. When the fiesh leaves the bone 
 easily on slight pressure the salmon is done 
 enough. Place it on a dish, and send lobster, 
 shrimp, or caper sauce to table with it. Time 
 to broil, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 
 salmon. Is. to Is. 4d. per pound when plentiful. 
 Sufiicient, one pound and a quarter for three 
 persons. 
 SALMON, BROILED (another way). 
 
 Oil each piece of salmon and wrap it in 
 greased paper ; broil gently and turn frec^uently. 
 Time, fifteen minutes to give the fish a nice pale 
 yellow colour. Serve with Dutch or caper sauce. 
 
 SALMON CANAPES. 
 
 Cut some slices of stale bread a quarter of an 
 inch thick. Stamp these with a plain cutter into 
 any fanciful shapes, and fry them in clarified 
 butter till they are lightly browned. When 
 cold spread anchovy butter over them, and lay 
 on the butter thin slices of smoked salmon. 
 Serve the canapes on a small dish. 
 SALMON CAVEACH. 
 
 Take one or more slices of salmon half an 
 inch thick; broil these according to the direc- 
 tions already given. Let them cool, then put 
 them into an earthen pan, and pour over the 
 fish as much vinegar as will entirely cover it. 
 The vinegar should have been boiled with two 
 heads of shallots, two cloves, a small blade of 
 mace, a quarter of an ounce of whole pepper, 
 and a little salt to each quart. Pour over the 
 top as much oil as will cover the vinegar, and 
 put the salmon aside till wanted. Time, fifteen 
 minutes to broil the fish. Probable cost of 
 salmon. Is. to Is. 4d. per pound, when plentiful. 
 SALMON, CHOOSING. 
 
 Choose salmon with a small head and tail and 
 thick shoulders. If fresh the body will be firm 
 and stiff, the eyes bright and prominent, the 
 scales bright and silvery, and the smell pleasant 
 (see Salmon, Freshness of). The colour of the 
 salmon changes greatly during the course of its 
 life. In the adult fish, the back and upper part 
 of the head are dark blackish-blue, the abdo- 
 men is glittering white, and the sides are of 
 an intermediate tint. On the body, and espe- 
 cially above the lateral line, a few dark spots 
 are scattered. During the breeding season the 
 
SAL 
 
 758 
 
 SAL 
 
 male salmon assumes its most vivid hues, an 
 orange gfilden tint spreading- over the body, 
 and the cheeks being marked with bright orange 
 streaks. 
 
 SALMON, CLEANING OF. 
 
 Begin by cutting out the gills ; then open the 
 beljy, remove the inside, and wash lightly; 
 scrape off the scales, and cut the fish in slices, 
 or serve it whole. If the salmon is to be 
 crimped, the scales must be allowed to remain. 
 Salmon-trout are cleaned in the same way as 
 salmon. 
 
 SALMON, COLLARED. 
 
 Split a salmon. Cut o£E the head and tail 
 parts, scale, bone, wash, and dry the fish per- 
 fectly. Into a piece weighing four pounds rub 
 a savoury powder made of two tea-spoonfuls of 
 salt, a tea-spoonful of white pepper, a salt- 
 spoonful of powdered mace, and a pinch of 
 cayenne. Eoll the salmon up, and bind it 
 firmly; put it in a fish-kettle, cover it with 
 vinegar and cold water, putting two parts of 
 water to one of vinegar, and add two or three 
 bay-leaves and a little pepper and salt. Cover 
 the saucepan, and let the fish simmer gently 
 till it is done enough. Serve cold with an- 
 chovy sauce or melted butter; and in order to 
 preserve the fish, keep it covered with the 
 liquor in which it was boiled, and pour into 
 this a little additional vinegar. Time to boil, 
 about an hour. Probable cost, salmon. Is. to 
 Is. ^d. per pound when in full season. 
 
 SALMON, COLLARED (another way). 
 
 Take a slice of salmon, cut off a handful of 
 the tail, wash the large piece well, and dry it 
 with a clean cloth; rub it over with the yolks of 
 eggs, and then make a forcemeat with what has 
 been cut off the tail (but take off the skin), 
 and put to it a handful of parboiled oysters, the 
 yolks of three or four eggs boiled hard, six an- 
 chovies, a handful of sweet herbs chopped small, 
 a little salt, some cloves, mace, nutmeg, pepper, 
 and grated bread; work all these items tho- 
 roughly together into a bodj, and lay it all 
 over the salmon; roll it up into a collar, and 
 bind it with broad tape : then boil it with salt 
 and vinegar in the water — let the liquor boil 
 before the fish is put in — let it continue to sim- 
 mer gently till done. It will take nearly two 
 hours' boiling; when it is done enough, take it 
 up ^nd put it into a deep pan. When the liquor 
 is cold, put it to the salmon ; let it stand till it 
 is wanted for use. Or it may be put into a pot 
 that will just hold it, and clarified butter poured 
 over it. 
 
 SALMON COLLOPS. 
 
 Cut the salmon into thin collops. Season with 
 pepper and salt, and fry them m a pan with a 
 little butter. Place them in a dish, and serve 
 with the following sauce. Take a spoonful of 
 fennel, mint and parsley, boil them five minutes, 
 and chop them fine. Mix with them half a pint 
 of bechamel and a little glaze. Season with 
 salt, a little cayenne, and a squeeze of lemon. 
 
 SALMON, CRIMPED. 
 
 Take two slices of crimped salmon, and ^lace 
 them in a stewpan in two quarts of boiling 
 water, half a pound of salt being added. Sim- 
 mer gently for a quarter of an hour or twenty 
 
 minutes; try the bone in the centre, and if it 
 leaves the flesh easily the fish is done enough. 
 Remove the fish from the pan, the instant it' 
 is done enough — to allow it to remain longer 
 destroys the aroma. If not ready, cover it over 
 with a wet napkin, and stand it in the hot 
 closet; then dish it on a napkin, and serve 
 either lobster, tomato, or shrimp sauce with it. 
 SALMON, CRIMPED AND BOILED. 
 
 When salmon can be obtained newly caught, 
 it is excellent crimped and boiled. It may 
 either be crimped whole, or cut into slices two 
 or three inches thick. When it is to be crimped 
 whole, take it when (juite fresh, remove the gills 
 and the inside, opening the fish as little as pos- 
 sible. Crimp it by making deep gashes across 
 the body on both sides with a sharp knife, 
 plunge the fish immediately into very cold 
 water, and let it lie for two hours, changing 
 the water every half hour. Or cut the fish 
 into slices three inches thick; lay these in cold 
 water slightly salted, and let them remain for 
 one hour. Boil the salmon according to the 
 directions given for boiled salmon, but remem- 
 ber that less time is required to •boil fish when 
 it is crimped than when it is left plain. Garnish 
 the salmon, and serve with the same sauces as if 
 it were plainly boiled; or the following sauce 
 may be sent to table. Put four ounces of fresh 
 butter into an earthen jar. Set this in a pan of 
 boiling water, and beat it until dissolved with a 
 table-spoonful of chopped parsley, a table-spoon^ 
 ful of strained lemon-juice, a little pepper, salt, 
 and grated nutmeg. Serve in a tureen. 
 
 SALMON, CRIMPED, WITH CAPER SAUCE. ' 
 
 Marinade your slices of salmon in a little 
 olive-oil with salt and pepper. Three-quarters 
 of an hour before you send up, broil them on 
 both sides over a very slow fire. When they are 
 done, take off the skin, and drain them on a 
 clean towel to draw out all the oil. Dish them, 
 and cover with caper sauce. Let it be under- 
 stood that the gridiron must be on a slope, 
 with a receptacle under the fore-feet to receive 
 the oil, which if it fell into the fire would pro- 
 duce a smoke which would spoil the fish, and 
 fill the kitchen, and a disagreeable odour would 
 arise. 
 
 SALMON CROMESKIES. 
 
 Take the remains of cooked salmon, free it 
 from skin and bone, and tear the flesh into 
 flakes. Put the fish into a saucepan with a small 
 portion of white sauce, a little pepper and 
 salt, and the yolks of three eggs. A spoonful 
 of minced truffles may be added, or not. Stir 
 the mixture over the fire for a few minutes till 
 the eggs are set, then spread the preparation an 
 inch thick on a plate, and leave it till cold. 
 Divide it into equal-sized portions, and mould 
 these in the form of corks. When the cromes- 
 kies are to be served, dip them separately into 
 frying batter, and fry in hot fat till they are 
 brown and crisp. Drain, serve on a hot dish, 
 and garnish with parsley. The batter may be 
 made as follows. Put five ounces of flour into 
 a bowl. Add a pinch of salt, and mix the flour 
 smoothly with a quarter of a pint of water. 
 Beat the yolks of two eggs with two table-spoon- 
 fuls of oil; stir the mixture into the batter, and 
 add more water if necessary. Ten minutes 
 
SAL 
 
 759 
 
 SAl. 
 
 before the batter is wanted, add the whites of 
 the eggs whisked to froth. Time to fry the 
 cromeskies, three or four minutes. 
 SALMON CRUMBS. 
 
 This is a highly-esteemed dish in the North 
 of Ireland. A quantity of cold boiled salmon 
 is divided into very small fragments, ah'd mixed 
 with bread-crumbs, an egg or two well whisked, 
 butter, pepper, salt, and a little vinegar ; after 
 which it is put in a pudding-dish, and baked in 
 an oven. The proportion of the ingredients is 
 not very definite, but is variously regulated ac- 
 cording to taste. Vinegar is often used with 
 this dish. 
 SALMON, CURED OR SALTED. 
 
 Split open and bone the fish. Wipe it with 
 a soft cloth, sprinkle salt over it, and leave it ' 
 for twenty-four hours. Pour off the liquor, wipe 
 the fish dry, cut it into pieces of a convenient 
 size, rub these well with pounded saltpetre, and 
 pack closely in a pot, with salt between the 
 layers. If the salt is not dissolved in three or 
 four days make a strong brine, and pour it, 
 when cold, over the fish,. which must be kept 
 covered with the liquor. 
 
 SALMON, CURRIED. 
 
 Cut two moderate-sized onions into slices, and 
 fry them in hot fat till they begin to turn yel- 
 low. Mix a table-spoonful of curry-powder, and 
 a dessert-spoonful of curry-paste very smoothly 
 with a small quantity of good stock. Add more 
 to make the quantity up to a pint, and pour 
 it over the omona. Let all simmer gently for 
 a few minutes, then rub the sauce patiently 
 through a fine hair sieve, return it to the sauce- 
 pan, let it boil, and put into it two pounds 
 of salmon which have been divided into small 
 square pieces convenient for serving. Skim the 
 fat from the sauce, and simmer the salmon 
 gently until it is done enough. A little garlic 
 or lemon-juice may be added, or not. Serve 
 with rice on a separate dish. The remains of 
 cooked salmon may be curried, and will need 
 only to simmer in the sauce until they are quite 
 hot. Time to simmer fresh salmon, about half 
 an hour. Probable cost, salmon, when plenti- 
 ful. Is. to Is. 4d. per pound. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. 
 SALMON CUTLETS (k la Maitre d'HStol). 
 
 Cut some slices of salmon in the shape of 
 chops. Put them into a saute-pan or stewpan 
 with some clarified butter, pepper, and salt, and 
 toss them, when dinner-time is come, over an 
 equal fire. Drain the butter well, and dish the 
 slices of salmon like a crown. Serve with 
 maitre d'hotel sauce. For salmon you must not 
 use any cream, as this fish is already heavy for 
 the stomach ; put into a stewpan three spoonfuls 
 of sauce tournee well reduced; add to it a 
 thickening of one egg, and refine the sauce with 
 a quarter of a pound of butter, some salt, a little 
 cayenne, the juice of half a lemon, and some 
 parsley chopped very fine ; work this sauce very 
 fine, and use it when wanted. You may give 
 this dish with several different sauces, as mare- 
 chal, Dutch, caper, Maintenon, ravigote, etc. 
 SALMON CUTLETS, BROILED. 
 
 Salmon cutlets are cut out of the middle or 
 large end of the fish. Clean the salmon, scrape 
 
 ofE the scalles, and cut from the fish' slices half; 
 an inch thick. Leave the skin on. Dip the cut-, 
 lets in clarified butter, sprinkle pepper and salt 
 over them, lay them on a hot gridiron, and broil 
 gently over a clear fire. Turn them over every 
 three or four minutes till they are done. Serve 
 on a hot dish, with a little piece" of butter upon 
 each cutlet. No sauce is required, but if it is 
 preferred, lobster or crab sauce may be sent to 
 table in a tureen; or a sauce may be prepared 
 as follows. Take a quarter of a pint of good 
 gravy. Mix with it a tea-spoonful of vinegar, 
 a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, half a tea-, 
 spoonful of Harvey's Sauce, and a tea-spoonful 
 of finely-minced mixed pickles. Boil the sauce, 
 thicken with a little flour, and serve. Time to 
 boil the fish, fifteen to twenty minutes, accord- 
 ing to thickness. Sufficient, two large cutlets 
 for five or six persons. 
 
 SALMON CUTLETS, BROILED EN PAPILLOTES. 
 
 Prepare the cutlets as in preceding recipe. Lay 
 each slice on half a sheet of buttered or oiled 
 writing-paper, put a similar sheet over it, and 
 twist the edges securely together. Put the cut- 
 lets on a hot gridiron, and broil gently over a. 
 clear fire. Move them occasionally to keep them 
 from burning. They may be served in the papers 
 or not, as preferred. Unless the appearance is 
 very good it will be better that the paper should 
 be removed, and this must be done with great 
 care. Time to broil the salmon, fifteen to 
 twenty minutes, according to thickness. 
 
 SALMON, CUTLETS OF, FRIED (another way). 
 
 Cut the salmon into slices an inch thick. 
 Pepper these, and bind a sage-leaf on each. 
 Fry the fillets in hot fat till the flesh leaves the 
 bone easily, or broil them on a gridiron over a 
 clear fire. Place them on a hot dish, squeeze 
 the juice of a lemon over them, and serve. 
 
 SALMON CUTLETS, SCOTCH. 
 
 Cut in the direction of the width of the fish, 
 and of the breadth of the finger, as many cross- 
 slices as may be required; put them in scald- 
 ing-hot water, and let them boil ten minutes; 
 By this very economical proceeding, there is 
 none of that waste which generally results from 
 the dressing of the whole fish at once. 
 
 SALMON CUTLETS, WITH SHALLOT SAUCE. 
 
 Take a large fillet of salmon, remove the skin, 
 then divide the fish transversely and slantwise 
 into slices; beat these slightly, and pare them 
 in an oval form. Salt the cutlets, dip them in 
 oil, and place them on a gridiron previously- 
 warmed and rubbed with oiled paper; broil 
 them on both sides for twelve or fifteen 
 minutes, basting them with oil. Dish them, 
 and send to table with the following sauce 
 poured over them. Put into a stewpan two 
 table-spoonfuls of chopped shallots and four of 
 good vinegar ; set the pan on the fire, and boil 
 till the vinegar is reduced one-half. Eemove 
 the saucepan from the fire, and when its con- 
 tents are about cold add the yolks of four eggs, 
 which beat with a spoon; add also four spoon- 
 fuls of good oil. Set the preparation on a 
 slow fire, and thicken the sauce, stirring all 
 the time. Draw it back, and introduce into 
 it by small quantities at a time half a glass- 
 ful of oil alternated with the juice of half a 
 
SAL 
 
 760 
 
 SAL 
 
 lemon; finish with a little chopped tarragon 
 and parsley. 
 
 SALMON, DEVILLED. 
 
 Mix a spoonful of mustard with two spoonfuls 
 of Lucca oil, one spoonful of essence of anchovy, 
 and a pinch of cayenne. Cut some thin slices 
 of kippered salmon, rub the mixture into them, 
 and lay them on fried toast which has been 
 seasoned rather highly with pepper or cayenne. 
 Put the toast in a hot oven for a few minutes, 
 and serve immediately. If liked, thin biscuits 
 of any kind may be substituted for the toast. 
 They must be soaked in Lucca oil, and toasted 
 till crisp. 
 
 SALMON, DRIED, KIPPERED, OR SALTED. 
 
 Cut a moderate-sized salmon down the back, 
 empty, scale, and wash it. Bub it inside and 
 out with common salt, and let it hang to drain 
 for twenty-four hours. Mix thoroughly one 
 ounce of pounded saltpetre with two ounces of 
 bay salt, and one ounce of common sugar. Bub 
 the salmon with this mixture in every part, lay 
 it on a large dish, cover it with salt, and let it 
 lie for two days. Turn it over, and rub it again 
 with common salt, and in twenty-four hours it 
 will be fit for drying. Wipe it well, stretch it 
 open with two sticks, and hang it in a dry copl 
 place; or if it is to be smoked, hang it in a 
 chimney or smoke-house. It may be used in a 
 few days. 
 
 SALMON, DRIED OR KIPPERED, TO DRESS. 
 
 An excellent relish for breakfast may be made 
 with dried salmon, and it is specially valuable, 
 as it can be used when other fish is not in the 
 market. It may be dressed in two or three 
 ways. No. 1. — Wash the salmon in cold water, 
 wipe it with a soft cloth, and lay it on a hot 
 gridiron over a clear fire. The inside of the 
 fish should be placed to the fire first, and it 
 should be turned over when it is half done. 
 Lay it on a hot dish, butter it well, and serve 
 hot. Or cut it into slices, and heat these 
 through in the oven or before the fire. Serve 
 with mustard sauce. No. 2. — Soak the salmon 
 in water to remove some of the salt. Put the 
 fish in a saucepan, cover with cold water, and let 
 it simmer gently till it is done enough. It must 
 not boil, or the flesh will be hard. Serve with 
 egg sauce. No. 3. — Pull the skin off the salmon, 
 and tear into fiakes the thick part of the fiesh. 
 Pour boiling water over it, let it stand for three 
 minutes, then drain it, and put it into a sauce- 
 pan with as much milk as will moisten it. Let 
 it simmer very gently for five or six minutes. 
 Dredge a little flour over it, add a slice of fresh 
 butter, stir the mixture for a few minutes, and 
 serve very hot. If liked, newly-mashed pota- 
 toes can be mixed with the flaked salmon just 
 before it is sent to table. No. 4. — Wash a 
 salted salmon, let it lie in water for twenty- 
 four hours, changing the water several times. 
 Scale it, out it into four parts, put these into a 
 saucepan, cover with cold water, and set them 
 on the fire. When the fish is half done, change 
 the water, and simmer the pieces till they are 
 tender. Drain them, put them into an earthen- 
 ware dish, sprinkle cayenne, allspice, cloves, 
 and mace over each piece, cover with vinegar, 
 and let them remain for four or five hours. 
 Serve cold for breakfast or tea. 
 
 SALMON FILLETS, FRIED. 
 
 Cut the fish into neat fillets. Egg and bread- 
 crumb these, and fry them in hot fat till they 
 are done enough. Dish the fillets in a circle, 
 and send tartar sauce, ravigote sauce, aurora 
 sauce, or Indian sauce to table with them. By 
 way of variety, the centre of the circle may be 
 filled with oysters, prawns, or shrimps, mixed 
 in Dutch sauce, with a further quantity of 
 sauce in a. tureen. Fried fillets of salmon are 
 frsquently served without sauce, and with the 
 juice of a lemon, strained over them. Time to 
 fry, ten to fifteen minutes, according to the 
 thickness of the fish. Probable cost, salmon, 
 when plentiful. Is. to Is. 4d. per pound. 
 
 SALMON, FILLETS OF. 
 
 Fillets of salmon differ from salmon cutlets 
 in this : that in the latter the fish is cut into 
 slices through the bone, but in the former the 
 flesh is raised from the bone by means of a 
 knife slipped along the spine. When the separa- 
 tion is effected, the skin is removed, and the fish 
 cut into neat pieces of any shape and thick- 
 ness that may be desired, though they are not 
 often more than half an inch thick. Almost all 
 ihe recipes which are given for salmon cutlets 
 apply also to fillets and vice versd. The time 
 required for broiling, etc., must be regulated by 
 the thickness of the fish. 
 
 SALMON, FILLETS OF {k I'Americaine). 
 
 Cut the flesh of the salmon into neat fillets, 
 dip these into beaten egg, drain, and roll them 
 in fine bread-crumbs; fry in hot fat till they 
 are lightly browned, put them on blotting-paper 
 to free them from fat, serve on a napkin, and 
 garnish with parsley. Send clear gravy to 
 table with them. Time to fry, eight to fifteen 
 minutes, according to the thickness. Probable 
 cost, salmon. Is. to Is. 4d. per pound when 
 plentiful. Sufiicient, two pounds of salmon for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 SALMON, FILLETS OF, STEWED. 
 
 Trim a pound of salmon into neat fillets. 
 Dry these, dip them in flour, partially fry them, 
 and put them on a sieve to drain. Dissolve 
 three ounces of butter in a saucepan. Mix 
 smoothly with this a table-spoonful of flour, and 
 add a, tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, half a 
 tea-spoonful of chopped fennel, a pinch of pow- 
 dered thyme, and a little pepper and salt. Stir 
 the mixture over the fire for four or five minutes, 
 add a glassful of sherry, and put into the sauce 
 the half-fried fillets. Let them simmer gently 
 for ten minutes. Lift the fish out with a slicer, 
 and place it on a hot dish. Let the sauce cool 
 for two minutes, then stir into it the well-beaten 
 yolks of two eggs, next whisk it over the fire 
 for a minute till it thickens, and pour it over 
 the fish. Garnish the dish with fried sippets. 
 Time, altogether, half an hour. Probable cost, 
 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 SALMON, FILLETS OF, WITH POTATOES. 
 
 Split and trim a pound or more of salmon 
 into neat fillets, egg and bread-crumb these, 
 and fry in hot fat till they are done enough. 
 Drain them on a sieve before the fire. Slice 
 some potatoes thinly; blanch them in boiling 
 water, drain and fry them in hot fat till they 
 
SAL 
 
 761 
 
 SAL 
 
 are soft without being browned. Arrange the 
 fillets in a circle on. a dish, put the fried 
 potatoes in the centre, and send lobster sauce 
 to table in a tureen. Time to fry the fillets, 
 eight to fifteen minutes, according to thickness. 
 
 SALMON FORCEMEAT FOR GARNISHING, ETC. 
 
 Lift the flesh from the backbone of a cooked 
 salmon, and take half a pound of it, free from 
 skin and bone; tear it into flakes, and rub the 
 fish through a sieve. Put the pulp into a mortar, 
 and pound it with five ounces of butter and 
 five ounces of panada, season with pepper and 
 salt, and moisten with a raw egg and a little 
 rich white sauce. Make the forcemeat into 
 cakes, and poach one of these in boiling water 
 to ascertain whether or not it is of the proper 
 consistency. If too stiff, add a little more sauce 
 or cream. Keep the forcemeat in a cool place 
 till wanted. 
 
 SALMON, FRESHNESS OF. 
 
 " The freshness of the salmon," says Caieme, 
 " may be known by the redness of the gills and 
 brilliancy of the eye, which is of a clear red and 
 transparent. The flesh should be firm, its shape 
 short and round, which constitutes it well made, 
 fat, and of a good quality; the head short and 
 pointed ; the back of a dark blue tint, and 
 covered with red spots; the belly like silver; 
 small scales compactly placed cover its whole 
 surface, and, when the fish is fresh, these are 
 very brilliant, but if not. they become dull and 
 clouded." 
 SALMON FRIED IN SLICES. 
 
 Cut four or five thin slices of salmon, cleanse 
 and dry them well, then season, flour, and dip 
 them in egg beaten up and bread-crumbs. 
 Plunge them into hot frying fat. Pry for ten 
 minutes or so ; when of a nice colour, drain the 
 slices, and sprinkle salt over them. Dish on a 
 folded napkin, and send them to table sur- 
 rounded with halves of lemon. 
 
 SALMON FRITTERS. 
 
 Take the remains of cooked kippered salmon. 
 Bemove the skin and bone, and tear the flesh 
 into small flakes. Mix with these an equal 
 quantity of potatoes mashed with plenty of 
 cream. Bind the mixture with yolk of egg, 
 make it into sjnall cakes or fritters, and fry in 
 hot fat till they are lightly browned. Drain 
 them, and serve on a hot dish: garnish with 
 hard-boiled eggs minced and placed round the 
 dish in small mounds, white and yellow alter- 
 nately. Send mustard sauce to »table in a 
 tureen. Time, five or six minutes to fry the 
 fritters. 
 
 SALMON GWILTS, OR SALMON PEEL. 
 
 These are the small salmon which run from 
 about five or six to ten pounds. They are very 
 good, and make handsome dishes cooked in the 
 same way as salmon trout, and sent to table 
 crooked in the form of tl^e letter S. 
 
 SALMON, HERRING, SPRATS, MACKEREL, 
 ETC. ETC., PICKLED (Dr. Kitchener's recipe). 
 Cut the fish into pieces of a suitable size, do 
 Dot take off the scales; then make a brine 
 strong enough to bear an egg, in which boil 
 the fish ; they must be boiled in only just liquor 
 enough to cover them, and do not overboil them. 
 
 When the fish are boiled, lay them slantingly 
 to drain off all the liquor ; when cold, pack them 
 close in the kits, and fill these up with equal 
 parts of the liquor the fish were boiled in (hav- 
 ing first well skimmed it) and the best vinegar ; 
 let them rest for a day, fill up again, striking 
 the sides of each kit with a cooper's adze until 
 the kit will receive no more; then head them 
 down as close as possible. This is in the finest 
 condition when fresh. Salmon is most plentiful 
 about midsummer; the season for it is from 
 February to September. Some sprigs of fresh- 
 gathered young fennel are the accompaniments. 
 The three indispensable marks of the goodness 
 of pickled salmon are — First, the brightness of 
 the scales, and their sticking fast to the skin; 
 secondly, the firmness of the flesh ; and, thirdly, 
 its fine pale red-rose colour— without tlaese it is 
 not fit to eat, and was either stale before it 
 was pickled, or has been kept too long after. 
 The above was given us as the actual practice 
 of those who pickle it for the London market. 
 Pickled salmon warmed by steam, or in its 
 pickle liquor, is a favourite dish at Newcastle. 
 SALMON, IMPERIAL FASHION (Careme's recipe). 
 
 The fish being cleaned, throw salt in the 
 inside, and rub some on the outside ; three 
 hours after wash it in several waters, drain and 
 wipe it, and fill the interior with a forcemeat of 
 whitings. Keep the fish in its first shape, and 
 lay it in a fish-kettle with mirepoix moistened 
 with two bottles of champagne wine (the head 
 of the salmon 'should be tied) and as much fish 
 stock. When it boils cover it with a large sheet 
 of strong paper, buttered, and let it boil slowly 
 for an hour, then let it cool in its braise ; take it 
 up afterwards On the strainer, remove nearly all 
 the skin from it, and glaze the best side with a 
 light fish glaze, to which you have added some 
 crayfish butter. Slide it carefully upon a nap- 
 kin on the dish, and surround it with parsley, 
 on which place a row of crayfish; afterwards, 
 with a row of the livers of burbots or carp roes, 
 dressed as usual ; when serving, garnish it with 
 eight hatelets of aspics, ornamented with cray- 
 fish tails and carp roes ; serve in one sauce-boat 
 a white mayonnaise with aspic-jelly, and in 
 another a ravigote of oil, to which add the fiesh 
 of a lemon cut into very thin slices, the pips 
 being removed. Serve cold. 
 SALMON, KIPPERED. 
 
 This is a favourite breakfast dish in Scotland. 
 After taking out the inside of the salmon, scale 
 and split the fish ; then rub it with common 
 salt and Jamaica pepper, and let it drain for 
 twenty-four hours. Mix together salt, coarse 
 sugar, and a little saltpetre, and rub the fish 
 well once or twice with this. Leave it in a tray 
 to pickle for two days; then wipe and dry it, 
 stretch it on sticks, and suspend it in the smoke 
 of a wood or turf fire to dry. If less smoking 
 is desired, the fish may be dried partly by the 
 heat of a fire and the sun. Broil sufficiently to 
 just warm through. 
 SALMON, MARINADED. 
 
 No. 1. — Cut three moderate-sized onions in 
 slices, and chop into small pieces a turnip, a 
 carrot, and three or four outer sticks of celery. 
 Add two table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley and 
 two bay-leaves. Put these ingredients into a 
 
SAL 
 
 762 
 
 SAL 
 
 saucepan, with a slice of fresh butter, and stir 
 hriskly over a quick fire for eight or ten minutes. 
 Pour over them a pint of vinegar, and add a 
 dessert-spoonful of salt, a dozen peppercorns, 
 and a blade of mace. Simmer the pickle for a 
 few minutes, and add three pints of waters Put 
 in two or more thick slices of salmon, and boil 
 them gently until done enough. Leave the fish 
 in the marinade till cold, and serve with a 
 little of the pickle (strained) in the dish with 
 it. No. 2. — Cut some slices of salmon an inch 
 and a quarter thick, brush them over with 
 clarified butter, and fry in hot fat till they 
 are lightly browned. Let them get cold, then 
 lay them in an earthen jar. Boil for ten 
 minutes as much vinegar as will cover them, 
 wi|h a sliced onion, one or more bay-leaves, a 
 piece of thin lemon-rind, a sprig of tarragon, 
 and a little salt and whole pepper. Let the 
 marinade cool, and strain it over the salmon. 
 A little oil poured over the top will make the 
 fish keep for some time. 
 
 SALMON, MATELOTE OF. 
 
 Boil in the usual way two or three thick slices 
 from the tail end of a large salmon, or, if liked, 
 boil instead a small salmon, trussed in the 
 form of a letter S. When done enough, drain 
 the fish, put it upon a dish without any nap- 
 kin, and pour over and around it some sauce 
 prepared as follows. Put three-quarters of a 
 pint of thick brown sauce into a stewpan with 
 eighteen button onions which have been fried 
 in butter till brown. Let them boil for ten 
 minutes, and add two glassfuls of claret, a 
 small lump of sugar, a, little pepper, salt, and 
 grated nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of anchovy 
 essence. Stir the sauce over the fire until it is 
 thick and coats the spoon. After it is taken 
 from the fire, stir a small piece of fresh butter 
 in it until dissolved. Mushrooms or oysters 
 may be added to this sauce if liked. It ought 
 to be very savoury. When brown sauce is not 
 at hand, it may be easily and quickly made by 
 kneading together in a saucepan equal propor- 
 tions of butter and flour, stirring the mixture 
 quickly over a slow fire till it is lightly browned 
 without being at all burnt, and moistening it 
 with stock made from bones, or, failing this, 
 with water. Time to make the sauce, half an 
 hour. Probable cost of salmon, when plenti- 
 ful. Is. to Is. 4d. per pound. 
 
 SALMON, MATELOTE OF (another way). 
 
 Take two or three slices of salmon, lay them 
 in a small kettle with a strainer, stew them 
 very gently in a quart of veal gravy and a gill 
 of Harvey's sauce for twenty minutes; lift out 
 the strainer from the fish, pour off the gravy 
 into a stewpan, return the strainer with the fish 
 to keep warm, thicken the gravy with arrow- 
 root, season with pepper and salt, add a quarter 
 of a pint of sherry, a gill of capers, and a dozen of 
 pickled gherkins cut into slices ; pour the whole 
 back again over the slices of salmon. Let them 
 simmer five minutes, and serve immediately. 
 SALMON, MAYONNAISE OF. 
 
 Mayonnaise of salmon consists of salmon 
 boiled and then allowed to get cold, served with 
 ealad and mayonnaise sauce. It is a dish which 
 is very highly esteemed, and one which affords 
 ample scope for the display of the artistic 
 
 faculty. The salmon may be boiled and dished 
 whole, or it may be divided into flakes two 
 inches long and an inch wide. Instructions 
 for both methods are here given. The salmon 
 may be boiled in the usual way, or for a super- 
 lative dish it may be dressed as follows. Put 
 a moderate-sized carrot, sliced, into a saucepan 
 with four shallots, a handful of parsley, a sprig 
 of thyme, a sprig of chervil, a bay-leaf, a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and a slice of fresh butter. 
 Steam the ingredients for four or five minutes, 
 then pour in as much boiling water as will 
 barely cover the fish, and add two glassfuls of 
 light wine. Put in a piece of salmon weighing 
 about five pounds, let it boil up quickly, skim 
 the liquor, then draw the saucepan back a 
 little, and simmer the fish gently till it is done 
 enough; drain it, and leave it till cold. If 
 the piece is to be served whole, dish it on a 
 napmn, garnish round with small salad and 
 crayfish, and stick prawns and parsley into 
 the salmon with silver skewers. Send mayon- 
 naise sauce to table in a boat. When the: 
 salmon is to be broken up, boil it, let it get 
 cold, remove the skin and bone, and divide the 
 flesh into pieces. Trim these neatly, and if 
 plainly boiled, season each one with oil, vine- 
 gar, pepper, and salt. Trim and' wash two 
 large lettuces or any other salad. Dry the 
 leaves perfectly by shaking them in a napkin 
 held by the four corners. Put a layer of salad, 
 finely shredded, in a bowl, place on this two 
 table-spoonfuls of the sauce, and then part of 
 the salmon, with a little more sauce, and repeat 
 until all the ingredients are used. Ornament 
 the top with slices of fresh cucumber, garnish 
 the base with a border of hard-boiled eggs, 
 prawns, etc., and let a trellis-work of beetroot 
 rest upon the eggs. The decoration of this dish 
 may bo varied indefinitely. Make the sauce as 
 follows. Put the yolk of an egg, freed from 
 white, into a basin, add pepper and salt, and 
 stir in very gradually about four ounces of oil. 
 The oil should be dropped in at first, and the 
 mixture well beaten between every addition. 
 The success of the sauce depends upon this be- 
 ing done. After every eighth tea-spoonful of 
 oil put in alternately a tea-spoonful of plain 
 vinegar and a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar. 
 The sauce should, when finished, have the ap- 
 pearance of very thick cream. Taste, and, if 
 necessary, add further seasoning, and, if liked, 
 a spoonful of chopped chervil, a spoonful of mus- 
 tard, and a little anchovy. The seasoning 
 ought as a rule to be rather high. Keep the 
 sauce in a cool place till wanted, and do not 
 dish the salmon until a short time before it is 
 required. Probable cost of salmon. Is. to Is. 4d. 
 per pound when plentiful. A mayonnaise by 
 no means to be despised may be made from 
 tinned salmon. When the fish is torn into 
 flakes, three-quarters of a pound of salmon will 
 make a dish sufficient for six persons. 
 SALMON, MOULD OF (for supper or luncheon). 
 
 No, 1. — Take a slice of cooked salmon weigh- 
 ing about a pound. Fry this in hot fat till it 
 is lightly browned, then pound it in a mortar 
 to a smooth paste with its weight in fine bread- 
 crumbs which have been soaked in hot milk for 
 ten minutes. Season the mixture rather highly 
 with salt and pepper and a blade of mace pow>' 
 
SAL 
 
 763 
 
 SAL 
 
 dered. Bind it together with the yolks of four 
 well-beaten eggs, press it into a buttered mould, 
 aiid bake in a moderate oven, or steam it as a 
 pudding would be steamed. Turn it out care- 
 fully, and garnish the dish with crayfish, pars- 
 ley, or button mushrooms. Time to bake, 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. No. 2. — Butter a 
 mould rather thickly, and fill it with slices of 
 fresh salmon, freed from skin and bone, and 
 seasoned with pepper and salt. Pack the slices 
 as closely as possible, and fill the crevices with 
 butter. Cover the mould closely, plunge it into 
 boiling water, and keep it boiling for an hour. 
 Turn it out carefully, and garnish the dish with 
 parsley. Probable cost, salmon, when plentiful. 
 Is. to Is. 4d. per pound. 
 
 SALMON MOULDED IN JELLY. 
 
 Soak an ounce of gelatine in as much cold 
 water as will cover it. When it has absorbed 
 the water, put it into a saucepan with a pint 
 of clear stock pleasantly flavoured. Stir the 
 gelatine over the fire till it dissolves, then pour 
 it out, and let it cool. Whisk the white of an 
 egg with a table-spoonful of cold water and 
 a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar. Stir this 
 briskly into the jelly, and when scum begins 
 to form leave the liquid untouched, and let it 
 boil for ten minutes. Put it by the side of the 
 fire to settle ten minutes longer, and then strain 
 through a jelly-bag till it is clear and bright. 
 Boil a pound and a quarter of salmon in very 
 little water. As soon as it is done enough take 
 it up, and when cold cut it into one-inch squares. 
 Pour a little of the jelly into a mould, and 
 arrange some of the pieces of salmon in this, 
 remembering to put the skin and the pink fiesh 
 alternately to the outside of the mould. Let 
 the jelly set, then put in another layer of sal- 
 mon; cover this with jelly, and let it also set, 
 and repeat until the mould is full. Turn the jelly 
 out when it is quite cold. Time, some hours to 
 stiffen the jelly. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Cooked 
 thus it is greatly relished as a breakfast or 
 luncheon dish. 
 
 SALMON OMELET. 
 
 For an o«ielet made with six eggs, take as 
 much cold cooked salmon, freed from skin and 
 bone, as would equal in bulk three hen's eggs. 
 Tear this into flakes, and heat them gently in a 
 saucepan with any remains there may be of 
 lobster, shrimp, oyster, or anchovy sauce. If 
 no such remains are at hand, a little melted 
 butter must be made for the purpose. Season 
 the ragout delicately with pepper, nutmeg, 
 and lemon-juice, and be careful to let it be 
 very thick. Prepare and fry the omelet in the 
 usual way (see Omelet). Place the hot ragoiit 
 in the centre, and finish it as in other cases. 
 Work a spoonful of blanched and chopped pars- 
 ley into a lump of butter. Place this in the 
 centre of a hot dish, put the omelet upon it, 
 and serve immediately. The butter melting 
 beneath the omelet will make the only sauce 
 required. When kippered salmon is used, the 
 flakes of fish may be beaten up with the eggs 
 and fried with the omelet. Time, a few 
 minutes to heat the fish in the sauce. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 SALMON PEEL. 
 
 Salmon peel is the name also given to an in- 
 ferior variety of salmon, which seldom reaches to- 
 more than a few pounds in weight. It should 
 be dressed like ordinary salmon. On account 
 of its small size it is generally boiled whole, 
 and in the shape of the letter S. To truss it 
 in this form, pass a packing-needle, threaded 
 with strong twine, through the eyes, and tie 
 the string securely under the jaw; afterwards 
 run the needle through the thick part of the 
 tail, and tie the fish tightly. 
 
 SALMON, PICKLED. 
 
 A whole salmon or part of one may be 
 pickled, and will form a handsome dish, or, if 
 preferred, the remains of cold boiled salmon may 
 be preserved in this way. Eecipes are given 
 for both methods. No. 1. — Clean, scale, and 
 boil a moderate-sized salmon in the usual way ; 
 drain it, and let it cooL Take equal parts of 
 the water in which it was boiled and of good 
 vinegar : let there be altogether as much as will 
 cover the fish. Put the liquor into a saucepan, 
 with a dozen cloves, a blade of mace, a tea- 
 spoonful of peppercorns, and a tea-spoonful of 
 whole allspice ; let it boil ; skim it, stir a slice 
 of fresh butter into it until dissolved, and pour 
 it over the fish. Put it in a cool place till 
 wanted. It will keep for some days if required. 
 No. 2. — Put a whole fresh salmon or part of one 
 into a large earthen jar, cover with equal parts 
 of vinegar and water, add salt, cloves, pepper- 
 corns, and spices, as in the last recipe, and lay 
 one or two bay-leaves on the top of the liquor. 
 Bake the salmon in a moderate oven. When 
 the fiesh leaves the bone easily on being lightly 
 pressed with the finger the fish is done enough. 
 Leave the salmon in the liquor in which it was 
 baked, and set it in a cool place till wanted. 
 If fresh vinegar is added, and the pickle is boiled 
 every now and then, it will keep good for some 
 time, and may be used again and again for the 
 same purpose. No. 3. — Split a salmon open 
 down the backbone, and divide the flesh into 
 pieces about five inches square. Sprinkle salt 
 and pepper over the pieces, and lay them in an 
 earthen pan. Pour as much good vinegar over 
 them as will cover them, set the lid on the pan, 
 and put it in a moderate oven. Bake the fish 
 gently until done enough. Keep it under the 
 pickle until it is wanted, and serve with a small 
 portion of the pickle in the dish with it. 
 
 SALMON, PICKLED (another way). 
 
 Cut the salmon across in slices about an inch 
 and a half or two inches thick. Then rub each 
 piece over with the following seasoning. Pound 
 one ounce each of mace, Jamaica pepper, and 
 cardamom-seeds, half an ounce of allspice, and 
 a salt-spoonful of cloves ; mix these with half a 
 pound of pounded bay salt, and two grated nut- 
 megs. Add also a little pounded bay-leaf and a 
 very small quantity of dried and powdered mint. 
 Rub this seasoning well into every slice of sal- 
 mon, then cover each piece with yolk of beaten 
 egg, and strew sieasoning over it again. Half 
 fill a small frying-pan with olive oil, and fry 
 one piece of salmon at a time until it is of a 
 rich yellow-brown colour. As each piece is 
 fried,' put it upon a hair sieve. When all are 
 fried, let them drain until cold. Then put at 
 
SAL 
 
 761 
 
 SAL 
 
 the bottom of a stone jar a small 'brancli of 
 fennel and a little sprig of taiiagon ; upon these 
 a. layer of pieces of salmon, on ■fliese a bay-leaf, 
 another little branch of fennel and another 
 little sprig of tarragon, then pieces of salmon, 
 then a bay-leaf; and so on until all the fish 
 is in. Then pour in vinegar to an inch above 
 the fish, and over this a thick layer of olive oil. 
 Salmon pickled in this way will keep good for 
 a year if required. 
 
 SALMON, PICKLED (Cold Meat Cookery). 
 
 No. 1. — Take the remains of dressed salmon. 
 Remove the skin, lift the flesh from the bones, 
 and divide it into neat pieces. Make as much 
 pickle as will cover the fish, composed of equal 
 portions of vinegar and of the liquor in which 
 the fish was boiled, and boil it for ten minutes 
 with salt, pepper, and spices proportionate in 
 quantity to that of the liquor. Let the pickle 
 cool, then pour it over the salmon, and set in 
 a cool place till wanted. In twelve hours the 
 iish will be fit for use. Garnish with fennel or 
 bunches of red currants, or a little lobster coral. 
 No. 2. — Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a stew- 
 pan. Put into this three moderate-sized onions, 
 sliced, a turnip cut into dice, a bunch of pars- 
 ley, a sprig of thyme, and a bay-leaf. Stir the 
 ingredients over a gentle fire for four minutes, 
 then pour upon them a pint of water and a 
 pint of vinegar, and add two tea-spoonfuls of 
 salt and one of pepper. Boil the pickle till the 
 onions are tender. Put the dressed fish, freed 
 from skin and bone and divided into neat pieces, 
 into a shallow pan, strain the pickle over it, and 
 set it in a cool place till wanted. The pickle 
 may be used again and again if it is boiled up 
 occasionally with a little fresh vinegar. 
 
 SALMON PIE. 
 
 Take about three pounds of fresh salmon. 
 Remove the skin, raise the flesh from the bones, 
 and divide it into pieces convenient for serving. 
 Season every piece separately with salt, pepper, 
 and pounded mace. The latter of these must be 
 added sparingly. Shell a pint of shrimps, and 
 pound them with an ounce of butter and a 
 pinch of cayenne. Put the pieces of salmon in 
 a dish, and intersperse the pounded shrimps 
 amongst them. Make some fish gravy by boil- 
 ing the skin and bones of the fish in water till 
 the liquor will jelly when cold. Fill the dish 
 with this, cover it with good pastry, and bake 
 in a well-heated oven. This pie is too rich for 
 delicate stomachs. Time to bake, one hour. 
 Probable cost, 4s., with salmon at Is. per pound. 
 SALMON PIE, COLD, WITH TRUFFLES. 
 
 Cut two pounds of raw salmon into middling- 
 sized squares, lard them with fillets of truffles 
 and anchovies, season with salt and spice; fry 
 them a few minutes with butter in a stewpan. 
 Then pour over them half a glassful of sherry, 
 Rrhich must be reduced; draw the pan back, 
 add to the fish a pound of peeled raw truffles 
 cut into quarters and seasoned, cover the stew- 
 pan, and let all the ingredients cool together. 
 Chop very fine ten ounces of lean pork or veal, 
 with the same quantity of raw pike or eel. Add 
 to this mince a pound of fresh fat bacon, pound 
 the whole together, and pass it through a sieve. 
 Season well the forcemeat with salt and spices, 
 and add to the above the trimmings of truffles. 
 
 pounded with a little bacon, and passed through 
 a sieve. Prepare a short paste, as in the recipe 
 Salmon Pie, Hot. Butter a cold pie-mould 
 of either round or oval shape, set it on a 
 bakingf-sheet covered with paper, line it with 
 two-thirds of the paste, and mask the bottom 
 and sides with a thm layer of forcemeat; fill the 
 vessel with the squares of fish, and the truffles 
 and forcemeat mixed, arrange the preparation 
 in a dome-shape fashion, rising above the rim 
 of the mould, mask it with little slices of bacon, 
 then with a thin round made with the remainder 
 of the paste. Cover the pie, pinch, decorate, 
 and give it a nice colour; put it into a 
 moderate oven. Seven or eight minutes after- 
 wards cover it entirely with paper; bake it 
 for two hours; then remove it from the oven, 
 and half an hour after having been taken out, 
 pour into the hollow in the top two glassfuls of 
 aspic jelly mixed with a little Madeira. A 
 quarter of an hour later take out the mould, 
 and let the pie cool for twenty-four hours pre- 
 vious to being served. 
 SALMON PIE, HOT. 
 
 Make a short paste as follows. Take a 
 pound of fiour and spread it in a circle on a slab, 
 lay in the centre the yolk of an egg, ten ounces 
 of butter, half a glassful of water, and a pinch 
 of salt. Dilute the butter with the liquid, then 
 introduce the flour gradually into it. As soon 
 as a firm paste is obtained, break (hriser) it 
 three times with the palms of both hands. Gather 
 it up, and set it aside for half an hour. Well 
 butter the inside of a round pie-mould, and set 
 the vessel on a baking-sheet. Then make 
 a quenelle forcemeat with ten or twelve 
 ounces of the flesh of pike. Take about a 
 pound and a half of fresh salmon, remove the 
 skin and bones, and divide the flesh into 
 squares. Chop one onion, fry it in a stewpan 
 with oil and butter, adding a few spoonfuls of 
 fresh-chopped mushrooms. When the moisture 
 of the above is reduced, add two or three raw 
 chopped truffles and the joieces of salmon. Fry 
 over a sharp fire for a few minutes, season with 
 salt and spices, and moisten with half a glassful 
 of Madeira. Let the whole boil for a few 
 minutes, keeping the saucepan covered. Mould 
 two-thirds of the prepared paste into a ball, and 
 roll it out into a thin, circular, flat form. Raise 
 the sides of this paste, pressing it between the 
 fingers so as to form a sort of bag. Lift the 
 paste carefully, and place it on the mould, 
 covering it well at the bottom and along the 
 sides; cut the paste half an inch above the 
 rim of the mould, and then mask it at the 
 bottom and along the sides with a layer of 
 forcemeat. Above this layer place half of the 
 slices of salmon with some of the. fine herbs; 
 mask again with forcemeat, and pile up the rest 
 of the fish in a dome-like shape, rising above the 
 rim of the mould. Cover the pieces of salmon 
 with another layer of forcemeat, and over all 
 place the rest of the paste rolled out very thin. 
 Fasten the edges of the pastry, pressing them 
 together so as to render the paste thinner; cut 
 it regiilarly, in order to be pinched all round 
 with pastry pincers. With th^ trimmings of 
 the paste prepare a few imitatiou leaves, -wMdi 
 .arrange as a rosace on the dome, in the top of 
 which form a small cavity; cover it with three 
 
SAL 
 
 765 
 
 SAL. 
 
 small rounds of paste of different sizes, placed 
 one above another like a pyramid. Egg the pie, 
 and put it into a moderate oven ; seven or eight 
 minutes later cover it with paper, and hake it 
 for one hour and a half. On taking it out, 
 having put it on a dish, remove the mould, and 
 cut the dome all round its centre, through which 
 aperture pour into the pie a little white sauce 
 reduced, with extract prepared with wine, and 
 the trimmings and bones of the pike and sal- 
 mon. Cover the pie, and serve. 
 
 SALMON, POTTED. 
 
 Scale and dry a fresh salmon. Slit it down 
 the back, take out the bone, and mix some 
 grated nutmeg, mace, pepper, and salt, and 
 strew it over the flsh. Let it lie two or three 
 hours; then lay it in a large pot or pan, put 
 to it half a pound of butter, and bake for an 
 hour. When done, lay it to drain; then cut 
 it up, and put the pieces in layers, with the 
 skin uppernlost, in pots ; place a board over the 
 pots, and lay on it a weight to press the salmon 
 down till cold : then take the board and weight 
 off, and pour clarified butter over the fish. Sal- 
 mon potted in this way may be sent to table in 
 pieces or cut into slices. 
 
 SALMON, POTTED (another way). 
 
 Both cooked and iiucoo£ed salmon may be 
 potted. We first give a recipe for potting fresh 
 Salmon. Take a piece of salmon weighing about 
 two pounds. Skin and clean it thoroughly; do 
 not wash it, but wipe it with a dry cloth. Cut 
 it into slices, and rub these with salt, then 
 let them drain until dry. Season with a table- 
 spoonful of white pepper, half a salt-spoonful 
 of cayenne, and half a salt-^spoonful of powdered 
 mace. Lay the salmon in a jar, cover it with 
 four ounces of butter, and bake in a slow oven. 
 When it is done enough, pour off the gravy 
 — which will be found useful for flavouring 
 purposes — ^press the salmon into jars, and when 
 cold cover it with butter which has been clari- 
 fied and is just be|rinning to set. If liked, a 
 bay-leaf, a finely-mmced onion, and one or two 
 anchovies may be laid between the pieces of 
 salmon in the jar. Time to bake, one hour and 
 a half. Probable cost, salmon, when plentiful. 
 Is. to Is. 4d. per pound. 
 
 SALMON, POTTED (Cold Meat CookeryX 
 
 Take the remains of cold salmon. Free the 
 flsh from skin and bone, then pound it thor- 
 oughly in a mortar. Whilst pounding keep 
 adding clarifled butter — a few (&ops at a time 
 — together with salt, cayenne, powdered mace, 
 and a little anchovy. When the preparation 
 is moist, smooth, and pleasantly flavoured, press 
 it into small jars, and pour over it clarified 
 butter to the thickness of a quarter of an inch. 
 Put it in a cool place for twelve hours, when it 
 will be ready for use. 
 
 SALMON, PRESERVED. 
 
 Amongst the many flsh preserved by the heat 
 process and put up in tins, salmon is un- 
 doubtedly the best. It is mostly packed in 
 California, Oregon, New Brunswick, Salvador, 
 and in 6ther mstricts where it can often be 
 bought by the preservers at one penny per 
 pound. This salmon in tins is retailed in 
 ordinary shops from eightpence to a shilling 
 
 per pound, according to the popularity of th© 
 " brand " and the position of the flrm whose 
 label is attached. There are some brands, 
 however, to be obtained at a much cheaper rate, 
 and at the same time they are quite equal to 
 those for which a higher price is asked. The 
 best way of dealing with tinned salmon is to 
 stand the tins in boiling water till the contents 
 are warmed through (for it must be remem- 
 bered that the salmon is already thoroughly 
 cooked), then cut off their tops with a tin- 
 opener; or it may be made into "flsh-oakes." 
 Good preserved salmon will turn out whole, and 
 so excellent is it that it takes a good judge to 
 distinguish between it and the fresh-cooked fish. 
 It is certainly a very valuable addition to our 
 food supply, (^ee also Salmon, Tinned.) 
 SALMON PUDDING. 
 
 Take half a pound of cold cooked salmon 
 freed from skin and bone. Tear it into flakes, 
 then pound it in a mortar to a smooth paste. 
 Boil a quarter of a pound of grated crumbs in 
 as much milk as they will absorb. Beat these 
 ingredients till they form a smooth paste, and 
 when cool mix this with the salmon, and add a 
 seasoning of salt and cayenne, a grate or two of 
 nutmeg, and half a tea-spoonful of essence of 
 anchovies. Pound the pudding again until 
 the seasoning is thoroughly incorporated, and 
 add two or more well-whisked egg's. Press the 
 preparation into a thickly-buttered mould, and 
 bake in a moderate oven; or, if preferred, roll 
 it into the shape of a roly-poly pudding, dredge 
 it well with flour, and wrap it first in buttered 
 paper and afterwards in a pudding cloth. 
 Fasten the ends, and steam the pudding until 
 done enough. Turn it out carefully, and serve 
 with thin custard sauce flavoured with laurel- 
 leaf. The pudding will be richer if cream is 
 used instead of milk, and if additional eggs 
 are allowed. Time to steam or bake the pud- 
 ding, a little more than half an hour. Prob- 
 able cost, exclusive of the cold salmon, 8d. 
 Suflicient for four or five persons. 
 SALMON QUENELLES. 
 
 . Take four ounces of uncooked salmon, cut it 
 up, and pound it with one ounce of butter. 
 Found three ounces of panada, add a table- 
 spoonful of bechamel sauce, and mix them both 
 in with the salmon. Pound again, putting in 
 the yolks of two raw eggs and the white of one, 
 and seasoning gradually with salt, white 
 pepper, grated nutmeg, cayenne, and a few 
 drops of essence of anchovy. Eub all through 
 a sieve, and keep till wanted. To cook, make 
 the quenelles of any desired shapes and sizes 
 with a spoon or mould; have ready a pan 
 slightly buttered, put them in ; pour in boifing 
 water to jUst cover fhe contents, let it boil 
 up again, then draw the pan aside, and leave 
 it to simmer only until the quenelles are firm. 
 Small ones will take from four to six minutes, 
 large ones eight to ten. Probable cost. Is. 
 SALMON, RAISED PIE OF (to be served cold). 
 
 Take two pounds of fresh salmon, and one 
 and a half pounds of whiting forcemeat. Re- 
 move the skin and bone from the salmon, cut 
 it into neat slices, and season each slice 
 separately with salt and cayenne. Line the 
 pie-mould with pastry (.see Raised Fieb), and 
 
SAL 
 
 766 
 
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 fill with alternate layers of forcemeat and fish, 
 and let forcemeat form the undermost and 
 uppermost layers. Cover the pie with pastry, 
 and finish iu the usual way. Bake, and when 
 done enough let it get cool, then pour into it 
 through an incision in the top a lio[uid jelly 
 made by boiling the bones and skin of the 
 salmon in water and flavouring it pleasantly 
 with salt, cayenne, and essence of truffles. 
 Close the hole, and serve the pie on a neatly- 
 folded napkin. To make the forcemeat, press 
 one pound of the flesh of whiting through a 
 sieve. Pound the pulp till smooth with ten 
 ounces of panada and ten ounces of butter. 
 Add salt and cayenne, and moisten the pre- 
 paration with the yolk of an egg and a little 
 rich white sauce. Make it in a cool place. In 
 order to ascertain when the pie is done enough, 
 run a skewer through the centre, quite to the 
 bottom. If the meat feels tender, it is done. 
 Probable cost, 4s. 
 
 SALMON, R^CHAUFFf OF. 
 
 Take the remains of cold boiled salmon ; free 
 it from skin and bone, and tear the flesh into 
 fiakes with two forks. Bruise the bones, and 
 simmer them gently for half an hour iu as much 
 water as will cover them. Strain the liquor, and 
 thicken it with a little flour and butter. Boil 
 it till smooth, season with pepper and salt, 
 and add a tea-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, 
 a, tea-spoonful of essence of anchovies, half a 
 tea-spoonful of strained lemon- juice, and a pinch 
 of powdered mace. Mix a pint of shelled 
 shrimps with the flakes of salmon, stir the 
 whole into the sauce, and let it heat gently, 
 but it must not boil. Serve very hot. Time, 
 about three-quarters of an hour. Sufficient for 
 a moderate-sized dish. 
 
 SALMON RISSOLES. 
 
 Take the bones and skin from some cold 
 cooked salmon, pound the fish in a mortar with 
 a few bread-crumbs, a little pepper, and a few 
 drops of essence of anchovies. With hands well- 
 floured, make the rissoles into round balls. 
 Fry in hot lard or butter until they are of a 
 golden brown, and serve up on a dish-paper 
 garnished with parsley. 
 
 SALMON ROE, FRIED. 
 
 Boil the hard roe of a salmon. When done 
 enough, draw it on a sieve, and let it remain 
 until cold. Cut it into thin slices, dip these in 
 egg and bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot fat 
 till they are lightly and equally browned all 
 over. Garnish with parsley, and serve with 
 tartar sauce. 
 
 SALMON ROES, CAVIARE OF. 
 
 Wash the roes thoroughly in milk and water, 
 and drain them till dry. Let them lie in salt 
 for two days. A pound of spawn will require 
 two ounces and a half of salt. Take the roes 
 up, lay them on a board before the fire, and let 
 them remain for some hours. Crush them with 
 a roller, and with every pound of spawn put 
 eight drops of spirit of nitre and as much 
 pounded saltpetre as will cover a sixpence. 
 Press the preparation into jars, cover the 
 surface with writing-paper, and spread upon 
 this a little cold lard. Tie bladder over the 
 top, and keep in a warm place. 
 
 SALMON SALAD. 
 
 Take the remains of broiled salmon, or broil 
 some slices specially for the purpose. Divide 
 these into neat pieces two inches square and half 
 an inch thick. Season the pieces separately 
 with oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt. Make a 
 little clear aspic jelly, seasoned with pepper, 
 salt, vinegar, and chopped ravigote {see Eavi- 
 gote). Wash some lettuces or any other suit- 
 able salad, and dry them perfectly. Divide 
 the hearts into halves, and with them make a 
 border round a dish. Decorate this bor- 
 der with picked prawns, hard-boiled eggs, 
 beetroot, etc. Put a layer of salmon into the 
 centre of the dish, and pour over it a little of 
 the savoury aspic. When it is set, put another 
 layer, and let this set again, and repeat the 
 layers, diminishing the circles each time until 
 at last they come to a point. Pour a little more 
 jelly over all, place half a hard-boiled egg on 
 this, and fasten in it the heart of a cabbage- 
 lettuce. Keep it in a cool place till wanted. 
 
 SALMON SALAD (another way) 
 
 This is an entremet which is recurred to on 
 economical principles when there is any salmon 
 left. Let the salmon cool, and cut it nicely 
 into fancy shapes. Decorate these with fillets 
 of anchovies, pickled cucumbers, fine capers, 
 and chopped eggs, to which add a few hearts of 
 lettuce. Then make the sauce as follows. If 
 you have some jelly, make a kind of mayon- 
 naise. Put three spoonfuls of oil, and one spoon- 
 ful of vinegar, with an equal quantity of jelly, 
 seasoned with pepper, salt, and chopped herbs. 
 Beat all these over ice till they are a white 
 colour, and decorate your salad with this mayon- 
 naise and a few lumps of jelly cut in different 
 shapes. Make no decorations that are liable to 
 tumble down. A plain, good salad will be 
 eaten in preference to any other. Grand decora- 
 tions are merely intended to ornament the 
 centre of the table : what is to be eaten must be 
 plain and good. Above all things, avoid intro- 
 ducing artificial colours. Nature has supplied 
 you with nasturtium, red and white beetroot, 
 beans of two colours (white and green), chervil, 
 tarragon, burnet, etc. ; besides, you have white 
 or yellow omelets. In summer-time you have 
 asparagus, artichoke-bottoms, caulifiowers, etc. 
 
 SALMON SALAD, WITH JELLY. 
 
 Take a piece of cold boiled salmon, weighing 
 about two pounds, trim away the bones and 
 skin, arid divide the flesh into squares. Place 
 these squares in a dish, season, and baste with 
 oil and vinegar. Have ready a plain border 
 mould embedded in ice; ornament the sides 
 and bottom with gherkins, whites of egg, fillets 
 of anchovy, and capers, always dipping the 
 details in half-set aspic jelly. Pill the mould 
 by degrees with cold jelly. Twenty minutes 
 before serving, turn the mould out on to a cold 
 dish, half fill the space enclosed by the border 
 with chopped aspic jelly, and on it place the 
 squares ot salmon in layers, alternated with egg 
 mayonnaise sauce. Serve with mayonnaise 
 sauce in a sauce-boat. 
 
 SALMON, SALTED (Norwegian fashion). 
 
 In the northern parts of the Continent salmon 
 is salted just like beef and pork. Before cooking 
 
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 767 
 
 SAL 
 
 the salted fish, let it steep in cold water for 
 forty-eight hours : the time may be shorter or 
 longer, however, according to the size of the 
 piece. Lay it in a stewpan, moisten with plenty 
 of cold water, and bring it to the boiling point. 
 Draw it back, keeping the fish covered; let 
 it stand for ten minutes, then drain the sal- 
 mon, place it on some boiled liwt not chopped 
 spinach, pour some melted butter over, and 
 send the fish to table. The spinach and melted 
 butter may be served separately. 
 
 SALMON, SAUCES SUITABLE FOR. 
 
 Shrimps, aushovy, lobster, Dutch, and green 
 parsley sauces may all be served with boiled 
 salmon. Sliced cucumber is frequently served 
 with it, and is generally liked as an accompani- 
 ment. Broiled salmon may have caper, maitre 
 d'hotel, Indian, p§xigueux, aurora, ravigote, 
 tartar, or Italian sauces. Oyster sauce, too, is 
 sometimes served with salmon. Fennel sauce 
 is now almost obsolete. 
 
 SALMON, SCALLOPED (Cold Meat Cookery). 
 
 Lift the flesh from the remains of cooked 
 salmon, remove the skin and bones, and tear 
 the meat into flakes. Season these rather 
 highly with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Mix 
 with them one-fifth of their weight in finely- 
 grated bread-crumbs, and moisten them lightly 
 with any cold sauce there may be, or, failing 
 this, with clarified butter. Butter some scal- 
 lop-shells, cover the inside with finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs, and shake off any that tto not 
 adhere. Put in the fish, cover it thickly with 
 crumbs, lay two or three little pieces of butter 
 ijn the top, and bake the scallops in a brisk oven 
 till the surface of the crumbs is brightly- 
 browned. Serve the fish in the shell, neatly ar- 
 ranged on a hot dish, and covered with a 
 folded napkin. If preferred, lightly-mashed 
 potato may be mixed with the fish instead of 
 bread-crumbs. If scallop-shells are not at hand, 
 deep oyster-shells, well cleaned, may be used 
 instead, or even shallow dishes will answer the 
 same purpose. Time to bake the scallops, about 
 a quarter of an hour. Sufiicient, three or four 
 scallops for a dish. 
 
 SALMON SMOKED (a brenkfast relish). 
 
 Cut some thin slices off a smoked salmon. 
 Wrap these in oiled paper, and broil them on a 
 gridiron over a gentle fire. When they are 
 heated on one side turn them upon the other. 
 Let them get cold, pour a little Lucca oil over 
 them, and serve, 'fime to broil the slices, two 
 minutes. 
 
 SALMON SOUFFLE, COLD. 
 
 Take half a pound of salmon, cook it in a 
 mixture of light wine and lemon-juice, and free 
 it from skin and bone. Pound the flesh in a 
 mortar; add to it the yolks of two hard-boiled 
 eggs, also the whites after they have been 
 chopped and sieved; season well with French 
 mustard, and salt and cayenne to taste, and a 
 little anchovy or shrimp essence; then moisten 
 with a gill of the mixture in which the fish has 
 been boiled, stiffened with a quarter of an ounce 
 of sheet gelatine. Sieve the whole, and mix in 
 half a pint of whipped cream. Take a paper or 
 «hiua case, and put the mixture in it. It 
 should stand up above the case, and be suf- 
 
 ficiently stiff to retain its shape. It should be 
 set on ice to make it quite cold and firm. This 
 may be ornamented in various ways. A round 
 of green mayonnaise may be laid on, and a 
 smaller round of cream aspic on that. Crayfish 
 tails, or shrimps, or prawns may be laid on, 
 with tiny sprigs of chervil in between. Cost, 
 about 3s. for one good-sized souflB.e, or six to 
 eight small ones. 
 SALMON SOUP. 
 
 No. 1. — If the fish is very fresh this soup may 
 be partially made with the liquor in which the 
 salmon was boiled, though a quart of veal stock 
 made from bones and flavoured with vegetables 
 will answer the purpose better. Take the re- 
 mains of the salmon. Lift the flesh from the 
 bones while it is still hot, and remove the skin. 
 Supposing there is a pound and a, half of sal- 
 mon, pick out the best pieces, tear them into 
 flakes, and then lay them aside. Put the rest in a 
 mortar along with any remains of lobster there 
 may be, especially the coral, a little cream, a, 
 tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, and two 
 hard-boiled egg-yolks. Pound these ingredients 
 to a smooth paste. Dissolve two ounces of 
 butter in a saucepan; mix with this as much 
 flour as it will take, beat it quickly with a 
 wooden spoon till it is smooth and slightly 
 brown, and moisten with a portion of the stock. 
 Stir in the salmon paste, and add as much stock 
 as will make the soup of the consistency of 
 thick cream. Season the soup with pepper, salt, 
 and cayenne ; throw in the flakes of salmon that 
 were set aside, let them get thoroughly hot 
 without boiling, and serve immediately. No. 2. 
 — Take a pound and a half of fresh salmon. 
 Eaise the flash from the bone, divide it into 
 neat fillets, and fry these in hot fat till they are 
 done enough. Put a quart of fish or veal stock 
 into a stewpan with the heart of a lettuce finely 
 shredded and half a pint of young green peas. 
 Simmer all gently for an hour, then rub the soup 
 through a fine hair sieve. Put it back into, the 
 stewpan, season with salt and pepper, put into 
 it the fried fillets of salmon, and let them sim- 
 mer until they are heated through. Add 
 another half-pint of peas boiled separately, sim- 
 mer all toge&er for a few minutes, and serve. 
 Time altogether, two hours. Probable cost. 
 Is. 6d. per pint when salmon is plentiful. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 SALMON, SOUSED. 
 
 Put, say, three pounds of cold cooked salmon 
 into a deep dish. Put a pint of cold vinegar 
 into a saucepan with half a pint of water. Add 
 an inch of whole ginger, a tea-spoonful of 
 peppercornis, three cloves, a blade of mace, a 
 pinch of ( cayenne, and a tea-spoonful of salt. 
 Bring the liquor to the boil ; let it boil for ten 
 minutes, pour it out, and let it get cold. Strain 
 it over the salmon, and let it remain in a cool 
 place for several hours. Serve with a little of 
 the pickle in the, dish with it. Time to boil the 
 pickle, ten minutes. Probable cost when salmon 
 is plentiful, about 3s. 8d. Sufficient for eight or 
 nine persons. 
 SALMON, SPICED. 
 
 Take a pound and a half of salmon. Put it 
 in a saucepan with a pint of good vinegar and 
 the third of a pint of water, and add an ounce 
 
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 763 
 
 SAL 
 
 of cinnamon, an ounce of whole black pepper, 
 and a little salt. Boil the salmon in this till 
 it is done enough. Let it get cold ; then lay it 
 closely in an earthen pan, pour the pickle and 
 spices over it, and cover it closely to exclude 
 the air. Keep it in a cool place till wanted. 
 
 SALMON, STEWED. 
 
 Fillet three pounds of salmon. Place the 
 trimmings of the fish in a stewpan with two 
 sliced carrots, a little celery salt, a bunch of 
 savoury herbs, a sprig of parsley, two shallots, 
 a quart of stock, half a pint of hock, and pepper 
 and salt to taste ; simmer for three-quarters of 
 an hour, then strain. Now place the fish in a 
 stewpan with an ounce of butter and fry for 
 eight minutes; add the stock, etc., and let all 
 boil slowly for five minutes ; then add a little 
 cayenne^ and the juice of half a lemon. Arrange 
 the fillets on a dish, thicken the stock, pour 
 over, and serve. Probable cost, about 4s. 
 
 SALMO:i, TINNED. 
 
 Take the pieces from the tin, and pile them 
 up dome-shaped on a dish, with a garnish of 
 any green vegetables round the base. Vine- 
 gar, both plain and flavoured, should be sent 
 to table, also black pepper and cayenne. As a 
 rule, the fish is preferred free from the liquor 
 m the tins. If required hot, put the tins in 
 boiling water for about fifteen minutes, then 
 «pen, and put the fish on a hot dish. Garnish 
 as for ordinary boiled salmon. {See also Sal- 
 mon Peesebved.) 
 
 SALMON, TINNED, HOT, WITH SAUCE. 
 
 Take the fish from the tin, and remove all 
 the bones; flake in small pieces, and drain. 
 Put an ounce of butter in a small stewpan with 
 a table-spoonful of flour ; cook until smooth but 
 not brown ; add half a pint of milk, and stir 
 till it thickens. Season with salt and cayenne 
 pepper. Place the salmon in the sauce, and 
 let it get thoroughly hot through ; garnish with 
 capers and hard-boiled eggs. 
 
 SALMON, TINNED, WITH MACARONI. 
 
 Grease a pie-dish and line it with crumbs, 
 then fill it with alternate layers of boiled 
 macaroni, moistened with hot milk, and tinned 
 salmon, divided into flakes; season each layer 
 with pepper and salt, and parsley or other herbs. 
 Half a pint of plain anchovy sauce should be 
 poured over all. The top layer should consist 
 of macaroni, well coated with crumbs. Pour 
 a little butter over, and bake quickly until 
 brown. 
 
 SALMON TROUT. 
 
 Salmon trout, though much resembling sal- 
 mon in flavour and appearance, are really not 
 of the same species. These fish seldom exceed 
 two or three pounds in weight, and frequently 
 reach only three-quarters of a pound. Sal- 
 mon trout is justly esteemed a great delicacy, 
 and may be dressed according to the methods 
 recommended both for salmon and trout, though 
 boiling is the least agreeable method of cook- 
 ing it. 
 
 SALMON TROUT, CHOOSING OF. 
 
 As food the salmon trout is in every respect 
 inferior to the salmon : its flesh is sometimes 
 white, sometimes red. When large, it is white. 
 
 and is little valued; but when small, it is 
 generally red, but not always : it is never so 
 red as salmon. By examining the inside of the 
 throat through the gills its colour may be seen. 
 If the throat is very red the flesh also will prove 
 red; and this is the kind that is most prized. 
 The cost varies, according to season. 
 
 SALMON TROUT, SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Take one or two slices of uncooked ham, an 
 onion cut into four, four cloves, a little pepper, 
 a shallot, and an ounce of butter. Put them 
 into a saucepan, and set over a slow fixe for a 
 few minutes, then add a table-spoottful of flour 
 and some good stock. Add a glass of red wine, 
 a small lump of sugar, a little salt, and six 
 anchovies, previously washed and scraped. 
 
 Let the sauce boil, and pass through a. 
 tamis, then serve it with either salmon trout 
 or eels. 
 
 SALMON TROUT, STUFFED AND BAKED. 
 
 Take a, good-sized trout, weighing two or 
 three pounds. Clean and scale it, handling 
 it as little as possible, and fill it with fish 
 forcemeat. Put it into a baking-dish, and pour 
 underneath and round it a marinade, made with 
 a spoonful or two of vinegar boiled with vege- 
 tables and spices to flavour it; lay a good 
 ?lice of butter broken into little pieces here and 
 there on the fish, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 Baste frequently with the marinade. When the 
 fish is done enough keep it hot a few minutes, 
 strain the liqour in the dish, add some stock to 
 it to make the quantity of sauce required, 
 thicken this with flour and butter, season with 
 a little anchovy, the squeeze of a lemon, and a 
 pinch of cayenne. Skin the trout, strain the 
 sauce over it, and serve. The forcemeat may be 
 made as follows. Take two ounces of finely- 
 shredded suet and two ounces of grated bread- 
 crumbs; mix with these a tea-spoonful each of 
 parsley, thyme, and marjoram, and add a large 
 pinch of salt, a pinch each of powdered mace, 
 pepper, and lemon-rind. Bind the forcemeat 
 together with the yolk of an egg, and it will be 
 ready for nse. 
 
 Time to bake the trout, from twenty minutes 
 to thirty-five minutes, according to the size of 
 the fish. 
 
 Suflicient for two or three persons. Prob- 
 able cost is somewhat uncertain, and is all 
 according to season. 
 
 SALMON TROUT, WITH LOBSTER CREAM. 
 
 Skin and bone three or four pieces of fish, 
 lay them in a saute pan, buttered, with a 
 glass of light wine and a little lemon-juice; 
 put a buttered paper over, and cook for ten 
 to fifteen minutes; then draw, and lay them 
 on a hot dish. Boil the liquor in the pan 
 quickly to reduce it, pour it over the fish, 
 then fill the centre cavity (left by the removal 
 of the bone) of each slice with lobster cream 
 (.see Lobster, Creamed). Garnish the centre 
 of the dish with watercress, dressed with oil, 
 vinegar, salt, and pepper, and put a little 
 sprig of cress in the centre of each piece of fish. 
 Serve either as dressed fish or an entree. 
 
 This dish is equally good when cold. 
 
 Salmom treated in this way is also a very 
 delicious dish. 
 
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 3 
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 S 
 
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 769 
 
 SAL 
 
 SALMON TROUT, WITH TRUFFLES. 
 
 Take a salmon trout weighing aboiit two 
 pounds, and of firm flesh ; scale it, and draw it 
 by the gills, wash and wipe it inwardly. Take 
 four freshly-peeled trulBes, chop them, and 
 pound them in a mortar, adding to them the 
 third of their bulk of softened bread-crumbs and 
 the same quantity of butter. Season with salt, 
 pepper, and chopped parsley, and fill the inside 
 of the trout with this preparation. Set the sal- 
 mon trout on a buttered gratin-dish. Salt, baste 
 with butter, and set in a moderate oven to bake, 
 basting often with butter. After twelve minutes, 
 pour into the dish a small glassful of white wine 
 and a few spoonfuls of melted glaze; boil the 
 liquid, and push the dish back into the oven. 
 In a quarter of an hour the trout should be 
 done enough; place it then on another dish. 
 Dilute the -fish stock with a little white wine, 
 let it boil, and thicken it with a piece of kneaded 
 butter. Add two chopped raw truffles, continue 
 boiling for two minutes longer ; draw it back, 
 and finish with a piece of fresh butter, the juice 
 of a lemon, and some chopped parsley. Pour 
 this sauce over, the salmon trout, and send to 
 table. 
 
 SALMON, WHOLESOMENESS OF. 
 
 As food, salmon, when in perfection, is one 
 of the most nutritive and delicious of our fish; 
 but as it is very oily it is rather heating, and 
 with some persons not very digestible; with 
 most constitutions it requires the addition of 
 condiments, as cayenne pepper and vinegar. It 
 is thought by some that the addition of shrimp, 
 lobster, and other rich sauces, with which it is 
 usually eaten, increases its indigestibility ; but 
 there does not appear to be any distinct know- 
 ledge on this subject, so much depending upon 
 peculiarity of constitution. It requires to be 
 very well boiled, otherwise it is unwholesome ; 
 and when in the best condition and season it has 
 a fine curdy matter between the flakes, which 
 is a proof of its perfection, and the flavour is 
 then very much superior ; but this is seldom seen 
 except near to the places where the fish is caught, 
 as the curd melts away if the salmon is kept. 
 SALMON, WITH CAPER SAUCE. 
 
 Take several slices of fresh salmon, and let 
 them marinade five or six hours in oil sufficient 
 to cover them, salt, pepper, parsley, chives, and 
 shallots, chopped fine; wrap the slices of fish 
 in paper with all the marinade, and broil them ; 
 take them out of the paper, and send to table 
 with caper sauce. 
 
 SALMON, WITH MATELOTB SAUCE. 
 
 Make a marinade, in which stew the salmon. 
 When the fish is done, pick off the scales care- 
 fully. To keep the salmon hot pour the mari- 
 nade over it. Then make a matelote sauce in 
 the following manner. Put a good bit of butter 
 -and two spoonfuls of flour into a stewpan, and 
 make a roux. When it begins to colour, throw 
 four or six onions into the roux, and let them 
 melt; keep stirring with a wooden spoon. Then 
 moisten with a bottle of red wine ; add a few 
 spoonfuls of the marinade in which you have 
 stewed the salmon, some trimmings of mush- 
 rooms, a bunch of parsley and green onions 
 well seasoned, and a small piece of glaze ; season 
 the whole, and put a little sugar to correct the 
 
 2x 
 
 acidity of the wine; skim the grease, and keep 
 the sauce thick. In case it should not be thick 
 enough to mask with, add a small piece of butter 
 kneaded with flour, a quarter of a pound of fresh 
 butter, some essence of anchovies, the juice of a 
 lemon, and some salt and pepper. Drain the 
 fish, and cover it with the sauce, after having 
 strained this through a tamis. 
 SALOOP, DECOCTION OF. 
 
 Saloop is highly valued for its stimulating 
 and nutritious properties, and a decoction may 
 be made from it, which will form a beverage to 
 be drunk as a substitute for beer or wine at 
 meal-times. Procure the. saloop in powder. 
 Boil sugar and water to a thin syrup, and flavour 
 this slightly with lemon-rind. Add a spoonful 
 of the powder rubbed to a smooth paste with a 
 little cold water, stir this into the syrup, boil all 
 together for a few minutes, let the liquor get 
 cold, and serve. A little light wine may be 
 added or not. Salooj) is sometimes boiled with 
 milk instead of water. Time to prepare, half 
 an hour. 
 
 SALOOP OR SALEP. 
 
 The preparation known under this name con- 
 sists chiefly of starch. It is obtained from the 
 roots of the common male orchis (Orchis mas- 
 cula). When boiled it constitutes an agreeable 
 article of diet, and was commonly used in this 
 country before the introduction of tea and 
 coffee. Sassafras chips were frequently intro- 
 duced into the decoction for the purpose of 
 giving it a flavour. The roots of the Orchis 
 maculata also yield an inferior sort of salep. 
 Althovigh now almost entirely in disuse in this 
 country, it is still employed in Turkey and the 
 East. The salep imported from India is in 
 white oval pieces, hard, clear, and pellucid, 
 without smell, and tasting like tragacanth. It 
 is a light, bland, and nutritious article of diet. 
 Salep is more nutritive than either arrowroot or 
 sago, and consequently is better adapted for 
 the convalescent than the sick. 
 SALPICONS. 
 
 Salpicons are elegant little trifles composed of 
 poultry, game, fish, forcemeat, sweetbreads, 
 ham, tongue, or foie gras, together with mush- 
 rooms, truffles, artichokes, etc. The various 
 materials should be cooked separately, cut into 
 dice, and heated in thick brown or white sauce, 
 whichever is most suitable for them. The re- 
 mains of meat and vegetables are frequently 
 served in this way. Salpicons may either be 
 served in a dish, with the different ingredients 
 divided by small sippets into compartments, 
 then covered over with bread-crumbs, and 
 browned ; or they may be put into little patties, 
 and served on a napkin neatly garnished with 
 parsley. The latter is the more usual method. 
 To prepare these patties, make some good puff- 
 paste ; with a cutter stamp it into small rounds, 
 two inches in diameter, put these on ice for a 
 few minutes, then brush them over with beaten 
 egg to glaze them. Dip a smaller cutter into 
 hot water, and stamp the rounds through one- 
 third of the thickness of the pastry. Bake the 
 patties in a qiiick oven. When they are done, 
 lift off the cover which was formed by thte 
 smaller cutter, and smooth the pastry. Have 
 ready whatever is to form the contents- of the 
 
SAL 
 
 770 
 
 SAL 
 
 patties. Heat it in saucer but on no account 
 allow it to boil, or the meat will be hard; fill 
 the patties, put on the covers again, and- serve. 
 In large families, where a number of dishes 
 are constantly prepared, the cost of salpicons 
 consists principally in the trouble they take 
 to prepare. Time to bake, fifteen to twenty 
 minutes. 
 
 SALSIFY. 
 
 Salsify, which is the root of a plant sometimes 
 called the " Oyster Plant " and " Purple Goat's 
 Beard," is excellent when cooked. It is not so 
 generally known as it deserves to be. It is 
 understood to possess stimulating properties. 
 It may be cooked in various ways : it may be 
 boiled and served with white maltre d'hotel, 
 Dutch, onion, or Italian sauce ; or it may be 
 fried in batter, or stewed or scalloped, or made 
 into croquettes. When fried, the salsifies are 
 often served round boiled fish, and rather re- 
 semble fried smelts in taste. The only incon- 
 venience attending the use of salsify ie that it 
 requires to be boiled for at least an hour to 
 make it tender, and to remove a certain bitter 
 flavour which appertains to it unboiled. The 
 leaves of the plant ought to be fresh, and the 
 roots firm and black. To prepare the roots for 
 dressing, cut off the ends of each, and scrape 
 off the outer rind till the flesh is reached, which 
 somewhat resembles the parsnip in colour and 
 appearance. Rub them with lemon-juice or 
 vinegar, and throw them into cold water until 
 they are to be dressed. They will be better for 
 lying in this for an hour or two, and will impart 
 to the water a tinge of reddish-brown. Ex- 
 posure to the air in scraping or after boiling 
 makes them turn black. The remains of salsify 
 which has been boiled one day may be fried the 
 next. Salsify roots, if left in the ground, will 
 in the spring send up stout green shoots, which 
 will be found txcellent boiled. They are to be 
 eaten like asparagus. 
 
 SALSIFY (^ la Creme). 
 
 Boil the roots till tender, or take the rem- 
 nants of dressed salsify, and divide them into 
 inch lengths. Dissolve a slice of butter in a 
 saucepan, and work into this as much flour as it 
 will take. When the paste is quite smooth, and 
 before it is at all coloured, moisten with milk 
 or cream, season with salt and cayenne, and stir 
 it over the fire till it coats the spoon. Put in 
 the slices of salsify, let them get hot, and serve 
 in a pyramid form on a hot dish. Add a spoon- 
 ful of lemon-juice to the sauce, pour it over the 
 roots, and garnish with fried sippets. Time 
 altogether, one hour and a half. 
 
 SALSIFY, BOILED. 
 
 The roots are boiled like carrots, or half 
 boiled and grated fine, made into flat small 
 patties, dipped in batter, and fried like oysters, 
 which they strongly resemble; hence the name 
 of vegetable oyster frequently used for salsify. 
 The young flower-stalks, if cut in the spring of 
 the second year, and dressed like asparagus, are 
 not unlike the latter, and make an excellent 
 dish. 
 
 SALSIFY, BOILED (another way). 
 
 Scrape the roots gently, so as to strip them 
 only of the outside peel. Then cut them into 
 
 pieces of an equal size, about four inches, and 
 throw them into water with a little vinegar or 
 lemon-juice, to prevent their getting black. 
 When you have scraped a suflicient quantity, 
 boil them in water enough for them to swim 
 with ease; add a little salt, a piece of but- 
 ter, and the juice of a lemon. Salsify will 
 generally be done in three-quarters of an hour; 
 yet it is better to ascertain the fact by taking a 
 piece out of the water, and trying with a knife 
 whether it is done enough, which is the case 
 when the knife penetrates easily. Drain the 
 salsifies, and send them up with whatever sauce 
 you think proper. They are generally served 
 with veloute or French melted butter. 
 SALSIFY, BOILED (M. Soyer's way). 
 
 "1 do not know," says M. Soyer, "why this 
 vegetable, which is held in such high esteem on 
 the Continent, should be so little esteemed with 
 us. I will here supply their manner of cooking 
 it, and perhaps you will give it a fair trial. 
 Take twelve middling-sized ones, scrape them 
 well till quite white, rub each with lemon, and 
 put it in cold water. Put into a stewpan a 
 quarter of a pound of beef or mutton suet cut 
 in small dice, one onion, a bit of thyme, a bay- 
 leaf, a table-spoonful of salt, and four cloves; 
 put on the fire, and stir for five minutes; add 
 two table-spoonfuls of flour, and stir well; 
 then add three pints of water. When just boil- 
 ing, put in your salsify, and simmer till tender. 
 They will take nearly one hour. Dish on toast ; 
 sauce over with Dutch, maitre d'hotel, or onion 
 sauce, or a very good demi-glaze, or Italian 
 sauce. Should any remain, they may be made 
 into fritters thus: Put them in a basin, add a 
 little salt, pepper, two spoonfuls of vinegar, 
 half a chopped shallot, and a spoonful of oil; 
 place in the salsify, and let it remain for some 
 hours. When ready to serve, make a small 
 quantity of batter, dip each piece in it, and fry 
 for five minutes in lard or fat; dish up with 
 fried parsley over." 
 
 SALSIFY, BOILED, PLAIN. 
 
 Scrape the roots lightly, either cut them into 
 three-inch lengths, or leave them whole, and 
 throw them into water with a little lemon till 
 wanted. Put them into boiling salt and water, 
 and keep them boiling quickly till tender. 
 Drain them, arrange on toast upon a hot dish, 
 and pour over them good melted butter — white 
 sauce, Dutch sauce, maitre d'hotel sauce, onion 
 sauce, or Italian sauce, however, may be used. 
 Sometimes the salsify is boiled in sauce flavoured 
 with vegetables, Jierbs, and spices instead of 
 water. Time to boil, about one hour. Prob- 
 able cost, variable. Sufficient, a dozen roots for 
 a dish. 
 SALSIFY CROQUETTES. 
 
 Wash, scrape, and boil the salsify till per- 
 fectly tender. Rub it through a colander or 
 mash it, and mix with the puree a little butter, 
 cream, salt, cayenne, and lemon-juice: beat it 
 till the ingredients are thoroughly mixed and 
 constitute a stiff smooth paste. Place this on 
 ice, and when it is quite cold, shape it into the 
 form of corks. Dip these into clarified butter, 
 or, if preferred, into beaten egg and grated 
 bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot fat till crisp 
 and brown. Lift them up, drain, and serve. 
 
SAU 
 
 77-1 
 
 SAL 
 
 SALSIFY, FRIED. 
 
 Make a batter as follows. Take six spoonful^ 
 of flour, a small pinch of salt, a spoonful of 
 «live-oil, and beat the whole with beer enough 
 to make it into batter, but do not make it too 
 liquid. Then beat the whites of two eggs, and 
 when well beaten pour them into the batter, 
 which you must keep stirring gently. Next put 
 the vegetables, which should have been done 
 beforehand and well drained in a cloth, into the 
 batter; then take them out again one by one, 
 and throw them into the dripping. Use a 
 skewer to prevent their sticking together. When 
 fried of a fine colour and crisp, send them up 
 with fried parsley in the centre of the dish, and 
 a little pounded salt sprinkled over the vege- 
 tables. 
 
 SALSIFY, FRIED, OR SALSIFY FRITTERS. 
 
 Boil the salsify till tender, or, if preferred, 
 take the remains of cooked salsify. Drain and 
 dry the roots by pressing them in a soft cloth. 
 Make a little frying batter, dip all the roots 
 separately into this, throw them into hot fat, 
 and fry them till they are lightly browned. 
 Take them up, drain them on a sieve, and serve 
 very hot, piled high on a, dish, and garnished 
 with fried parsley. No sauce will be needed 
 for them when dressed in this way. Sometimes 
 the salsify is dipped into egg and bread-crumbs 
 instead of batter before frying. When batter is 
 used it may be made as follows. Put three 
 table-spoonfuls of flour into a bowl with a salt- 
 spoonful of salt and an ounce of fresh butter. 
 Add as much lukewarm water as will melt the 
 butter, and beat the whole to a smooth batter. 
 Put it into a cold place, and ten minutes before 
 it is wanted add the well-whisked white of an 
 egg. The salsify is occasionally soaked in vine- 
 gar, with a little pepper and salt, before it is 
 fried, but this is not necessary. When done, 
 the roots should be thoroughly drained. Time, 
 one hour to boil the salsify; to be fried till 
 crisp. 
 
 SALSIFY IN SALAD OR ASPCC. 
 
 Take salsifies enough to fill a mould of the 
 size of the dish on which the salad is to be 
 served, then boil them in the usual way; drain 
 and cut them the length of the mould; dress 
 them like a chartreuse, dip them into a little 
 aspic to stick them together all round the 
 mould, and fill the middle with a salad of 
 Bmall bits of salsifies all the same size;_ then 
 season with salt, pepper, a little oil, vinegar 
 and aspic ; put in also some parsley chopped 
 very fine ; toss the whole, and put the mould 
 into ice. At dinner dip a rubber into hot 
 water, rub the mould all round with it, and 
 turn the salad out on a dish to serve up. 
 If you can procure a few French beans very 
 green, they will make the salad appear better; 
 -while haricot beans are likewise very useful. 
 
 SALSIFY SALAD. 
 
 Boil the salsify till perfectly tender, drain it, 
 and cut it into inch lengths. Put these on a 
 dish, and pour over them any simple salad- 
 dressing, or toss them up lightly with oil, vine- 
 gar, salt, pepper, and chopped ravigote. Gar- 
 nish as fancy dictates. Time to boil the salsify, 
 <oue hour. 
 
 SALSIFY SAUCE. 
 
 Scrape and wash two roots of salsify, rub them 
 with lemon, and throw them into cold water till 
 wanted. Boil the roots till perfectly tender 
 in slightly-salted water. Drain them, cut them 
 into small pieces, stir these into half a pint of 
 melted butter, simmer a few minutes, and serve. 
 Time, one hour and a quarter. 
 
 SALSIFY, SCALLOPED. 
 
 Boil the salsify till tender, and wash it or 
 rub it through a colander. Put it into a bowl, 
 which is placed in a larger one half filled with 
 boiling water. This is to keep the salsify hot. 
 Work into the pulp a little butter and milk, or 
 cream, and season with salt and pepper. Add 
 a pinch of celery salt, if it is at hand. Butter 
 some scallop - shells, cover them with grated 
 bread-crumbs, and fill them with the puree. 
 Lay grated bread over the salsify, and place 
 little pieces of butter here and there upon all 
 the scallops. Put them in a hot oven, and let 
 them remain until the surface is brightly 
 browned. If scallop-shells are not at hand, 
 small dishes may be used instead. Time, one 
 hour and a quarter to bake the scallops. 
 
 SALSIFY, STEWED. 
 
 Scrape and wash the roots, and cut them 
 into round slices. Boil them in as much water 
 as will barely cover them, and when they are 
 tender lift them out with a slice, and pour away 
 all but a quarter of a pint of the liquor. 
 Thicken this with flour and butter, stir half 
 a cupful of cream into it, and season with 
 pepper and salt. Let it simmer gently for a 
 few minutes. Put the salsify into a hot dish, 
 pour the sauce over it, and serve. Time, one 
 hour. 
 
 SALSIFY, WITH MELTED BUTTER (GoufTe's recipe). 
 
 Take four pounds of salsify ; the leaves should 
 be very fresh and the root black and firm. Cut 
 off the roots and scrape them to remove the 
 black skin entirely; throw them in a large 
 basin of cold water with a little vinegar in it. 
 Put in a three-quart stewpan half a pound of 
 beef-suet, chopped fine ; melt it over a slow 
 fire, without colouring it. Add two quarts of 
 water, a tea-spoonful of salt, and two table- 
 spoonfuls of vinegar. Stir over the fire till it 
 boils ; add the salsify, previously cut into pieces 
 two and a half inches long, and simmer for half 
 an hour, with the lid not quite closed. Drain 
 them well, and put them in a two-quart stewpan 
 with a pint of melted butter; mix well, and 
 serve. 
 
 SALSIFY, WITH VELOUTE. 
 
 Prepare as in the preceding recipe. Only 
 take note that all sauces sent up with vege- 
 tables should be refined arid thickened with fresh 
 butter. Never forget to add salt and a little 
 cayenne. 
 SALT BUTTER, CHOOSING. 
 
 When you choose salt butter, taste a piece of 
 the outside next the tub : if that isgood and free 
 from rankness, you may be certain the middle 
 is; but the centre is often excellent when the 
 sides are half spoilt ; and those who sell it, 
 knowing this, often give you to taste a sample 
 out of the middle. 
 
SAL 
 
 772 
 
 SAL 
 
 SALT BUTTER MADE FRESH. 
 
 Put a pound of salt butter in a wooden bowl 
 kept very clean for the purpose, with a quart 
 of water, and work it well, either with your hand 
 or a wooden spoon, for twenty minutes; then 
 pour away the water, and wash the butter well 
 in seven or eight different waters. Add a very 
 little fine salt, and make the butter into pats. 
 
 SALT BUTTER, TO MAKE. 
 
 The common method of preserving butter is 
 by salting it more or less. Salt is thoroughly 
 worked into the butter, in the proportion of one 
 or two ounces to the pound, according as the 
 butter is required to be kept for a shorter or 
 longer time. Dr. Anderson, in his " Recrea- 
 tions," recommends another method of curing 
 butter, by which, he says, with ordinary care, 
 it may be kept for years in this climate, or 
 carried to the East Indies, if packed so as not 
 to melt. " Mix two parts of the best salt, one 
 of sugar, and one of saltpetre, and beat them 
 into a fine powder : one ounce of this prepara- 
 tion is suflicient for a pound of butter. This 
 should be thoroughly mixed with the butter as 
 soon as it is separated from the whey, and it 
 should then be put into a clean cask. It should 
 be packed very well down, to exclude the air 
 thoroughly; the top should be covered with a 
 sprinkling of salt, and melted butter poured 
 over it to fill up every crevice before the cover 
 is fixed down. Butter cured in this manner does 
 not taste well till it has stood at least a fort- 
 night after being salted; but after that time 
 it has a rich marrowy taste that no other butter 
 ever acquires, and tastes so little salt that one 
 would imagine it would not keep." Dr. Ander- 
 son had seen it perfectly sound when tWo years 
 old in this climate. 
 
 SALT, COMMON, WHOLESOMENESS OF. 
 
 So far as the health and vigour of the body 
 are concerned, this is an article of the first 
 importance. All animals require salt. It facili- 
 tates the absorption of water into the system, 
 and being a compound of chlorine and sodium, 
 it seems to supply to the body a certain quantity 
 of chlorine essential to the proper performance 
 of some of the vital processes. It has a stimu- 
 lant action upon the throat, gullet, and 
 stomach, thereby promoting the secretion of 
 saliva and of the gastric juice, and in this way 
 facilitating digestion. To the digestive func- 
 tions it is a natural and necessary stimulant, 
 and the daily use of salt conduces much to the 
 preservation of health and strength. Dr. Lan- 
 kester, in his work " On Food," gives some 
 curious information regarding the effects of this 
 much-used condiment. "Let us," he observes, 
 " inquire a little into the probable use of salt 
 in our system. If we take a vessel and divide 
 it into two parts by an animal membrane, such 
 as exists in our own bodies, and then put salt 
 and water on one side and spring water on tlie 
 other side, so that they may both stand at the 
 same level, in the course of time we shall find 
 that the spring water will go down and the salt 
 water will rise and flow over. The pure water, in 
 fact, passes through the membrane, but the salt 
 water will not. Now, this is (jrecisely the re- 
 lation of the blood to the membranes of the 
 stomach. It is a solution of salt ; and if we 
 
 place in our stomachs pure water, it will pass 
 through the membranes of the stomach just in 
 the same way that it passes through the mem- 
 brane in the vessel. This, then, appears to be 
 one of the important functions performed by 
 salt. It facilitates the absorption of water into 
 the system. This will also account for the 
 thirst produced by taking excessive quantities 
 of salt or salted food of any kind." 
 
 SALT FISH. 
 
 Salt fish requires to be soaked before being 
 dressed, the time being regulated by the hard- 
 ness and dryness of the fish. The water should 
 be changed two or three times during the pro- 
 cess, and the fish should be brushed and washed 
 when it is taken out. For very dry fish thirty- 
 six hours' soaking will be needed, the water 
 being changed at least four times. In ordinary 
 cases twenty-four hours' soaking will be suf- 
 ficient. It should be remembered that the fish 
 should be put in to soak /?es/i downwards. 
 Boiled parsnips and egg sauce are the usual 
 accompaniments to salt fish, which is occa- 
 sionally served also with hard-boiled eggs, 
 chopped small, strewn over it. For a change, 
 the fish may be garnished with eggs cut into 
 quarters, and parsley. It should be dished on 
 ei, neatly-f oldea napkin placed on a hot dish. 
 
 SALT FISH (a la Mattre d'HStel). 
 
 Boil the fish in the usual way, free the flesh 
 from skin and bone, and tear it into flakes. 
 Mix a dessert-spoonful of flour smoothly with 
 two or three ounces of good butter. Stir them 
 in a clean saucepan till the butter is dissolved, 
 then add a pinch of salt and the third of a 
 pint of boiling water. Stir the whole over the 
 fire for a few minutes, and add a table-spoonfiil 
 of chilli vinegar and a table-spoonful of chopped 
 parsley. Let all boil up once. Put the flaked 
 fish into a saucepan, pour the sauce over it, 
 and stir it over a gentle fire till it is quite hot. 
 Turn it upon a hot dish, put round it boiled 
 parsnips or mashed potatoes, and serve. The 
 remains of cold salt fish may be dressed in this 
 way. Time, a few minutes to heat the fish in 
 the sauce. Probable cost, 4d. to lOd. per pound. 
 SALT FISH, BOILED. 
 
 Soak the fish for twenty-four hours, changing 
 the water three or four times. Brush and wash 
 the fish well, and if it is still hard soak it in 
 lukewarm water. If very hard and salt, thirty- 
 six hours' soaking will be required. Put it in a 
 saucepan, cover with plenty of cold water, and 
 heat it very gently. Remove the scum as it 
 rises, and keep the water simmering only till the 
 fish is done enough. It should never be allowed 
 to boil fully. Serve on a hot napkin with egg 
 sauce in a tureen. The egg sauce may be pre- 
 pared as follows. Boil three eggs till hard, and 
 cut them into pieces the size of a pea. Put 
 these into a saucepan with a quarter of a pint 
 of good melted butter already boiling, and stir 
 them over the fire three minutes longer. Serve 
 immediately. Salt fish is generally supplied by 
 the fishmongers in a, condition to require very 
 little soaking. Time to simmer the fish, half 
 an hour to one hour, according to its thickness 
 — the time to be calculated from the moment 
 when it is almost boiling. Probable cost, 4d. 
 to I"'', per pound. 
 
SAL 
 
 773 
 
 SAL 
 
 SALT FISH. COOKED, RfCHAUFFE OF. 
 
 No. 1. — Free it from skin, and tear the flesh 
 into flakes. Beat the remains of boiled pars- 
 nips to pulp, moisten this with cream or milk, 
 add butter and flour to thicken, and season 
 with pepper and mixed mustard. Add the 
 flaked fish, and stir the preparation over the 
 fire till it is hot. It must not boil. No. 2. 
 — Tear the fish into flakes; mix these with 
 double the quantity of mashed potatoes, add 
 a slice of fresh butter and two or more hard- 
 boiled eggs finely minced. Heat the prepara- 
 tion over a gentle fire, and serve with egg 
 sauce. No. 3. — Tear the fish into flakes, and 
 mix it with a hard-boiled e'eg finely minced. 
 Make a circular wall of mashed potatoes, put 
 the fish into the centre, and heat the whole in 
 a brisk oven. Serve with egg sauce. No. 4. — 
 Tear the flesh into flakes ; put them into a sauce- 
 pan with as much cream thickened with flour 
 and butter as will cover them. Let them heat 
 gently, and serve with egg sauce. No. 5. — ^Tear 
 the fish into flakes, and mix with double their 
 quantity in mashed potatoes. Moisten the 
 preparation with cream, season with pepper 
 and salt, and bind together with a beaten 
 egg. Make it into small balls. Dip these in 
 beaten egg, roll them in bread-crumbs, and fry 
 them in hot fat. When they are brightly 
 browned, drain them, and serve on a neatly- 
 folded napkin. Salt fish thus prepared may 
 be pressed into a buttered basin, and browned 
 in the oven : after which it should be turned 
 carefully upon » hot dish, and garnished 
 with minced egg and minced beetseot. No. 6. 
 —Tear the fish into flakes, and take half the 
 quantity of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Fill a 
 baking-dish with alternate layers of fish and 
 bread-crumbs, season each one with pepper 
 and dry mustard, and upon the uppermost 
 layer (which should consist of crumbs) stick here 
 and there little pieces of fresh butter. Pour 
 into the dish as much cream or new milk as will 
 moisten the preparation. Bake in a well-heated 
 oven, and serve. Time to bake, half an hour 
 for a moderate-sized dish. 
 
 SALT FISH PIE. 
 
 Soak and boil the fish, and divide the flesh 
 (freed from skin and bone) into neat squares. 
 Take double its quantity in partially-boiled 
 potatoes thinly sliced, together with as many 
 partially-boiled and sliced onions as may be 
 .agreeable. Butter a pie-dish thickly, fill it with 
 layers of sliced potato, fish, hard-boiled eggs 
 and onions; season each layer with pepper and 
 dry mustard, and place little pieces of fresh 
 butter here and there in the pie. Pour over 
 all a little egg sauce, cover with good pastry, 
 and bake in a well-heated oven. When the 
 pastry is sufficiently baked the pie will be done 
 enough. If liked, mashed potatoes may be used 
 to cover the pie instead of pastry, and the 
 onions can be omitted altogether. A very good 
 potato pasty may be made with salt fish (see 
 Potato Pastt). 
 
 SALT FISH SOUFFLE. 
 
 Peel eight potatoes, and boil them for thirty 
 minutes. Drain the water from them, and mash 
 them very fine; then mix in thoroughly about 
 a pound of finely-shredded h oiled salt cod or 
 
 other fish. Add two table-spoonfuls of butter, 
 salt and pepper, and three-quarters of a break- 
 fast-cupful of milk. Beat up two eggs, stir 
 them into the mixture, and put it in the dish 
 in which it is to be served. Place in the oven 
 for ten minutes. Beat the whites of another 
 two eggs to a stifE'froth, and add a quarter of a 
 tea-spoonful of salt ; then add the yolks ; spread 
 this over the dish of fish. Eeturn to the oven 
 until brown, and serve at once. 
 
 SALTING MEAT. 
 
 Pull instructions for salting the various 
 joints are given under the_ diiiferent headings, 
 nevertheless it may be useful to present in a 
 concise form general instructions for the pro- 
 cess. The meat -should always be brought in as 
 soon as the animal is killed, the kernels, sinews, 
 and pipes should be at once removed, and the 
 blood and moisture wiped away. Then, if liked, 
 it may be allowed to hang for a few days in 
 cool weather to become tender; in hot weather 
 it should be immediately salted. Exceedingly 
 hot and exceedingly cold weather are equally 
 unfavourable for salting meat. A handful of 
 common salt should first be sprinkled over the 
 meat, then it should be allowed to lie on a dish 
 in a cool place for twenty-four hours, and after- 
 wards the brine should be drained from it, the 
 moisture wiped off, and the salting process con- 
 tinued. The great art of salting meat consists 
 in rubbing the salt thoroughly and equally into 
 every part, between the muscles and under the 
 flaps, and into the places from which the kernels 
 were taken; the holes in which the butcher's 
 skewers were pushed ought also to be filled with 
 salt. The meat should be turned every day, 
 and rubbed in the brine which flows from it. It 
 ought to be examined too, and if any mouldi- 
 ness gathers on any portion of it, that part 
 should be cut off, and the place rubbed with 
 salt. The quantity of salt used must be regu-, 
 lated by the weight of the joint, which should 
 be rubbed plentifully in every part with the 
 salt-mixture, and afterwards well covered with 
 it. The salt should be heated and pounded 
 .before being used. Bay salt is more expen-. 
 sive, but gives a better flavour to meat than 
 common salt ; saltpetre reddens it, but makes it 
 hard and dry, therefore, as little should be used 
 as possible. A little sugar makes the meat mel- 
 low. An ounce of saltpetre will be sufficient for 
 four pounds of sugar a,nd salt, and one pound of 
 sugar may be put with four pounds of salt. 
 Sometimes a minced onion and a spoonful of 
 pounded herbs are mixed with the salt — they 
 help to make the meat savoury. Meat which is 
 salted dry will lose in weight, whereas if it is 
 pickled, that is, if it is immersed completely in 
 liquid brine, it will gain slightly in weight, and 
 keep longer. Pickle which is once made can b& 
 used again and again if boiled up occasionally 
 and if fresh salt is put in to make up for loss. 
 The meat should be kept under the pickle, and 
 if necessary a board should be laid upon it to 
 ensure this. The tub, too, in which the meat is 
 cured should be kept covered with- a lid or with 
 a blanket folded into two or three thicknesses. 
 Pickle made in the following proportions will be 
 found excellent and very strong. Three pounds 
 of bay salt, two ounces of' saltpetre, naif a 
 pound of sugar, and two gallons of water. Boil 
 
SAL. 
 
 774 
 
 SAN 
 
 kalf an hour, skiiu, and cool. When the pickle 
 is boiled up with additional salt, it shoiud be 
 carefully skimmed each time, as the portion 
 which would make it spoil will ri^e in scum, 
 and can be removed. A piecp of meat can be 
 Jcept two or three weeks in this pickle in cool 
 weather. When it has been kept in pickle for 
 this'time, it should be soaked in water for an 
 hour or two before being cooked or it will be too 
 salt. Pork needs to remain in pickle longer in 
 proportion to its weight than beef, on account 
 of the greater firmness of its ffesh. 
 
 SALT, SPICED. 
 
 Mix thoroughly half an ounce of grated nut- 
 meg, half an ounce of powdered cloves', a quarter 
 of an ounce of white pepper, and an eighth 
 of an ounce of cayenne. Pound the ingredients, 
 and pass them through a fine sieve. Mix with 
 them a quarter of an ounce of powdered thyme, 
 a quarter of an ounce of powdered "bay-leaf, a, 
 quarter of an ounce of mixed marjoram and 
 rosemary, and lastly half a pound of dried and 
 powdered salt. Put the preparation in a bottle, 
 stopper it closely, and store in a dry place till 
 wanted. 
 
 SALT, TO PREPARE FOR TABLE. 
 
 Purchase salt in lumps, and store it in a dry 
 place. If it is not perfectly dry, put it before 
 the fire to make it so before using it, and then 
 let it cool before putting it into the salt-cellar, 
 or it will harden into a lump. When wanted 
 for use, rub one lump upon another, and in this 
 way powder the salt, which will be quite fine. 
 Pile the salt in the salt-cellar, and smooth the 
 top by pressing it with a knife or table-spoon. 
 A little arrowroot mixed with the salt will pre- 
 vent it caking. 
 
 SALT-WATER FISH, WHOLESOMENESS OF. 
 
 Salt-water fish are the best of any, as their 
 flesh is more solid, more agreable and healthy, 
 less exposed to putrescence, and less viscid. 
 They possess these excellent qualities when 
 fresh ; when salted, they have all the properties 
 of salt fiesh, and consequently its disadvantages. 
 Those fish which have scales are in general the 
 most easily digested and the best ; and of all 
 these the fresh herring appears to deserve the 
 preference. The herring, the whiting, the sole, 
 the cod-fish, the dory, the turbot, and the 
 flounder, are perhaps the most digestible and 
 best of fish. Salmoq,, mackerel, lobster, and 
 most kinds of shell-fish, are, on the other hand, 
 very difficult of digestion, but oysters are 
 easily digested, and may safely be taken by 
 most invalids. 
 SAMPHIRE. 
 
 The samphire (Orithmum Maritimum) has a 
 poetical interest, and is one of the plants of 
 Shakespeare. The " dangerous trade " of the 
 samphire-gatherer arises from its growing on 
 the sides of steep cliffs ; atid one of the most 
 ornamental features of the white cliffs of Albion 
 is the dark green patches which this plant pro- 
 duces where it grows. It is gathered for the 
 sake of the pleasant oil which is diffused 
 throughout the plant, and which renders it an 
 agreeable addition to our food, • especially when 
 it is used in the form of pickle. Samphire is 
 generally gathered where it grows vrild, but is 
 
 sometimes very successfully cultivated in beds 
 of sand, rich earth, and rubbish, occasionally 
 sprinkled with a little salt. 
 Samphire is about as wholesome as pickles. 
 
 SAMPHIRE SALAD. 
 
 . This is a most delicious salad, and is made 
 as follows : 
 
 Chop very finely four ounces of cold- boiled 
 ham, half a pound of cold cooked veal, and 
 a slice of fried bacon. Now shred enough 
 pickled red cabbage to make one pint of 
 shredded leaves. Put the meat and oabbage in 
 layers in a salad bowl, sprinkling each layer 
 with a little samphire oil and French dressing. 
 Add a layer of chopped egg after the oil and 
 dressing is added. Repeat the process till the 
 bowl is full. 
 
 Then arrange the top in a pyramid form, 
 garnishing with yolk of eggs cut into quar- 
 ters, the whites cut into rings. Arrange half 
 circles of beetroot around the edge, and dust 
 over with chopped parsley and a little cayenne. 
 A few olives may be added, if desired, whilst 
 a sprinkling of capers is another toothsome 
 addition. 
 
 The cost is variable, and depends largely 
 upon the amount made. 
 
 SAND CAKE. 
 
 Take half a pound of butter and stir it to a 
 cream, then add the yolks of twelve eggs and 
 the peel of half a -lemon, grated. Add to this 
 preparation by degrees a quarter of a pound of 
 fine flour, a quarter of a pound of potato-flour, 
 and half a pound of sifted sugar. When these in- 
 gredients are thoroughly incorporated add the 
 whites of the eggs whipped to a snow. Stir 
 well, and bake in a moderate oven. The sand 
 cake will be made considerably richer by adding 
 half a wine-glassful of rum or brandy and the 
 whole of a grated lemon-peel. 
 
 SAND CAKE (another way). 
 
 Take half a pound of fine flour, a quarter of 
 a pound of potato-flour, half a pound of warmed 
 butter, a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, six 
 eggs, and the rind and juice of a lemon. Mix 
 these ingredients thoroughly, and bake in a 
 moderate oven. When the cake is three-parts 
 done, draw it gently to the mouth of the oven, 
 and strew the following quickly over it: Two or 
 three ounces of almonds cut small and mixed 
 with one tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon 
 and two ounces of powdered sugar. Place the 
 cake back in the oven to finish baking, taking 
 care that the almonds oh the top do not become 
 too brown. 
 SAND CAKE, WITH MARMALADE. 
 
 Take one pound of butter, half a pound of 
 almonds blanched and pounded, the grated peel 
 of a lemon, three-quarters of a pound of flour, 
 four table-spoonfuls of pounded sugar, and 
 seven eggs. Work these ingredients into a 
 paste, roll out, and divide into three round 
 cakes. Between each cake place a layer of any 
 sort of marmalade at hand, and bake slowly; 
 when half done, pour an icing over the whole, 
 and flnish baking. 
 SANDWICHES. 
 
 Sandwiches, when properly prepared, con- 
 stitute a convenient, elegant, and palatable 
 
SAN 
 
 775 
 
 SAN 
 
 dish for suppers or luncheons, but they have 
 fallen iirto bad repute on account of the careless 
 manner in which they are often made. They 
 are composed of different articles introduced 
 between two thin slices of buttered bread. 
 Amongst materials commonly used may be men- 
 tioned — cooked chicken, game, beef, veal and 
 ham, tongue, or mutton, potted meats, fish 
 pastes of various kinds, hard-boiled eggs, Ger- 
 man and other sausages, forcemeats, pounded 
 cheese, stewed fruits, jellies, etc. Sometimes 
 sliced pickles are sprinkled over the meat, and 
 a suitable seasoning should always be added. 
 Whatever the materials used, it is necessary, 
 in order to make sandwiches properly, that two 
 or three rules be observed. First, whatever 
 meat, etc., is used, let it be well cooked, freed 
 from skin, gristle, and all unpalatable portions, 
 and it should he cut up into mouthfuls. The last 
 is a most important point, and one not often 
 attended to. Second, pare the crust from a 
 stale loaf, cut the bread into neat slices an 
 eighth of an inch in thickness, and butter these 
 evenly and thinly with fresh butter. A loaf 
 baked in a tin for the purpose, and called a 
 sandwich loaf, may be ordered from the baker 
 when it is known two days beforehand that 
 the sandwiches will be wanted. Third, season 
 the cut-up meat with mustard, salt, pepper, or 
 whatever is required, and lay it between two 
 slices of buttered bread, press it with the hand 
 to make the ingredients adhere, and cut the 
 sandwiches into squares with a sharp knife. To 
 dish them, fold a napkin neatly, and lay it 
 on a dish ; put the sandwiches in circles upon it, 
 one lapping half over the other, and garnish 
 with parsley. If not wanted immediately, lay 
 a napkin wrung out of cold water upon the 
 sandwiches to keep them moist. 
 
 SANDWICHES, SUPERIOR (for suppers and 
 luncheons). 
 
 Cut the flesh of cooked fowl, game, or shell- 
 fish, into neat pieces. Lay these upon thin 
 slices of toast, and cover them with suitable 
 sauce made very thick so as to adhere. Mayon- 
 naise sauce may be used for poultry and fish, 
 and salmi sauce is suitable for game. Garnish 
 the surface of the sandwiches with white of egg 
 chopped small, finely-shredded tarragon leaves, 
 and minced pickle or truflle. Dish the sand- 
 wiches in a circle, pile small salad or lettuces 
 finely shredded in the centre, and place a bor- 
 der of clear aspic jelly cut into dice round the 
 dish. Or mince cold game finely, and stir the 
 mince into a little stiff salmi sauce. Minced 
 mushroom, truffle, or tongue may be added if 
 liked. Set the preparation upon ice, and when 
 it is stiff put a layer between two slices of but- 
 tered bread. Serve in the usual way. 
 SANGAREE. 
 
 This is a sort of punch frequently drunk in 
 the West Indies. It is composed of Madeira, 
 Jamaica rum, and water, acidulated with lime- 
 juice and sweetened with sugar. 
 
 SANGAREE (American.) 
 
 Put a quarter of a pint of Madeira or port 
 into a large tumbler. Add two or three lumps 
 of sugar and as much hot or cold water as will 
 fill the glass. Grate nutmeg over the prepara- 
 tion, and serve, 
 
 SANGAREE (Danish). 
 
 The following is a Danish method of making 
 sangaree. Take three bottles of red wine, and 
 mix with them a pint and a half of water; add 
 a whole nutmeg, grated, and cinnamon ■ and 
 sugar to taste. Set the preparation on the fire, 
 and let it boil up; then take it off, and let it 
 stand with the cover on till cold. Strain and 
 bottle. 
 
 SANGAREE, STRONG. 
 
 Put into a stone jar a pint and a half of cherry 
 brandy, a quarter of a pint of lime-juice, three 
 pints of Madeira wine, three quarts of French 
 brandy, two pounds of loaf sugar, three-quarters 
 of a pound of preserved guavas sliced, two 
 ounces each of candied citron and lemon sliced, 
 two ounces of preserved ginger sliced, half an 
 ounce each of cinnamon and cloves beaten fine, 
 one ounce each of nutmeg and Jamaica peppery 
 two ounces of pistachio nuts blanched and 
 beaten, half an ounce of bitter almonds blanched 
 and beaten, three-quarters of an ounce each of 
 gum arable and gum dragon dissolved. Beat the 
 almonds and nuts to a paste with a spoonful of 
 orange-flower water. Make a pleasant mixture 
 of the Madeira, lime-juice, and loaf sugar ; pour 
 it to the other ingredients, cork and seal. the jar, 
 and set it in hot water to infuse the greater 
 part of a day. In twelve hours shake it well, 
 and keep it in a warm temperature six weeks, 
 after which it may be stored. In twelve or 
 fifteen months strain it off, filter it several times 
 until it is beautifully bright, then put it in 
 small bottles, which cork well and seal, and in 
 six months more it will be excellent. 
 
 SANGAREE (West indian). 
 
 Crush four ounces of loaf sugar to powder, 
 and pour upon it a large wine-glassful of lime- 
 juice. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, then 
 add a bottle of Madeira, half a pint of pure 
 French brandy or Jamaica rum, and two pints 
 of cold spring water. Grate the fourth part of 
 a small nutmeg over the sangaree, put a large 
 lump of ice into it, and serve. Spongecake or 
 Savoy biscuit is generally served with the san- 
 garee. 
 SANTE^ POTAGE DE (Careme's recipe). 
 
 Put into a stock-pot two roast fowls (to colour 
 the soup slightly), a knuckle of veal (removing 
 the bony end), and some bones of roast beef, if 
 you have any; add the necessary beef stock 
 (twenty ladleiuls), so that the consomme when 
 reduced may contain about fifteen ladlefuls; 
 remove the scum, after which add salt and 
 pepper to taste ; boil it slowly for five hours, 
 skim off the fat, and take up the meats ; then 
 mix in the consomme the white of an egg beaten 
 up with a, little cold beef stock to clarify it; 
 after twenty minutes' boiling, strain it through 
 a napkin, and again set it to boil, mixing with 
 it the following roots and vegetables ; the red 
 part of a large carrot, cut, with a, root-cutter, 
 in columns three-quarters of an inch wide, and 
 each column being divided into slices one-eighth 
 of an inch in thickness ; a large. turnip prepared 
 in the same manner ; as also two heads of celery 
 and two leeks sliced — these roots should be 
 blanched ; add two small lettuces, a little sorrel 
 and chervil. After an hour's boiling throw in 
 a little sugar and three table-spoonfuls of 
 
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 776 
 
 SAR 
 
 asparagus points of a fine green, and throw 
 the soup into a tureen containing small crusts 
 of a French roll rasped, cut round three- 
 quarters of an inch wide, without the least ap- 
 pearance of crumb, and dried in a hot closet. 
 
 SARATOGA COCKTAIL. 
 
 Put into a large tumbler twenty drops of 
 pineapple syrup, twelve of Angostura ' bitters, 
 twenty of maraschino, and a wine-glass of old 
 brandy; nearly fill the glass with fine crushed 
 ice, and mix well. Then place two or three 
 strawberries in a small tumbler, strain the mix- 
 ture on them, twist a piece of lemon-peel over 
 it, pour a little champagne on top, and serve. 
 
 SARATOGA POTATOES. 
 
 Peel four raw potatoes, and slice them with 
 a sharp knife to the thickness of note-paper. 
 As you slice throw them into ice-cold water, 
 and allow them to remain until they are 
 wanted. Dry them thoroughly in a clean cloth. 
 Have ready a pan with plenty of boiling lard. 
 Put in the potatoes a few slices at a time, 
 using a frying-basket. Fry until a pale golden 
 brown, which will only take a minute or two. 
 Sprinkle them with salt while they are hot, and 
 serve at once witb. grilled steak or chop, or other 
 meat dish. Probable cost, 3d. 
 
 SARATOGA PUDDING. 
 
 Put a pinch of salt into two table-spoonfuls 
 of flour, add three table-spoonfuls of sugar, and 
 work the whole into a smooth paste by beating 
 it briskly with three fresh eggs. Add gradually 
 a quart of hot milk, pour the batter into a 
 buttered dish, and bake in a quick oven. Time 
 to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 
 9d. Sufiicient for five or six persons. 
 SARDINE BUTTER. 
 
 This preparation is very good spread on toast 
 or made into sandwiches. Take twelve sardines 
 and wash them quickly in cold water. Scrape 
 off the skin, remove the bones, and pound the 
 flesh in a marble mortar with a piece of fresh 
 butter, and add butter gradually till the quan- 
 tity mixed in equals half a pound. Add salt 
 and cayenne pepper to taste, and work the pre- 
 paration into a smooth paste. If sardines pre- 
 served in oil — such as are imported in small 
 bottles and boxes — are used, do not wash the 
 fish : do nothing but scrape off the skin and 
 remove the bones. Press the paste into a jar 
 or into small potting-pans, and store for use. 
 Anchovies may be prepared in the same way as 
 sardines. If liked, a little ground mace may 
 be added with the cayenne pepper 
 
 SARDINE FRITTERS. 
 
 Cut slices of roll or loaf bread into equal-sized 
 shapes. They must be a good half-inch thick, 
 and enough of them to form a ring round the 
 edge of a small dish. Beat two or three eggs, 
 and mix with them rather more than their 
 measure of milk. Soak the bread slices in this, 
 and fry them in butter to a delicate pale brown. 
 Lay the slices round the edge of your dish, let- 
 ting one slice rest on the edge of the other. 
 Place poached eggs in the middle of the dish, 
 and put on them the following sauce, which 
 must be just thick enough to spread. Mince the 
 yolks of four hard-boiled eggs quite small. Chop 
 fine some parsley, a little sprig of tarragon. 
 
 and some pimpernel or burnet. Melt a piece 
 of butter in a stewpan; put in the minced 
 herbs, and stir them a few minutes to soften; 
 then add salt, pepper, and the minced eggs, 
 with a dessert-spoonful of gravy, the same of 
 lemon-juice or vinegar, a spoonful of capers 
 whole, a little oil and mustard, and, if required, 
 a few crumbs to thicken. Stir all togetlicr. 
 Put a small tuft on each poached egg, and 
 spread the rest on the wreath of sippets. Take 
 about a dozen sardines, bone them, and 
 mince them small with a piece of butter and a 
 little cayenne pepper. Divide and spread this 
 on the sippets. Place them to warm for a 
 minute in the oven, and serve directly after 
 the soup. 
 
 SARDINE MUSTARD. 
 
 Take half a dozen sardines, remove the 
 bones carefully, and pound the flesh with the 
 yolks of four hard-boiled eggs. Mix a shal- 
 lot, finely minced, with the paste. Add also 
 two table-spoonfuls of mustard mixed with 
 vinegar, or any sort of made mustard, two 
 table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and the same of 
 salad oil, together with salt and cayenne 
 pepper to taste. Work all together till quite 
 smooth. 
 
 SARDINE SALAD. 
 
 Take any cold dressed fish. Free it from 
 skin and bone, and tear it into flakes. Put 
 a layer of it in the centre of a dish, and 
 sprinkle lightly over it a small portion of 
 minced gherkins and bruised capers. Place 
 on this a layer of sliced Gernian sausage, and 
 arrange on the top of the pile sardines split 
 into halves and freed from bone and skin. 
 Cut lettuce-hearts into quarters, place these 
 round the salad, and garnish the dish with 
 hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters lengthwise. 
 At the moment of serving, pour over the salad 
 a sauce prepared as follows. Take the flesh of 
 three sardines freed from skin and gristle. 
 Rub this in a mortar to a smooth paste with 
 the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs; and, add » 
 pinch of cayenne, a grate of nutmeg, and two 
 table-spoonfuls each of oil, vinegar, and light 
 wine. Add the ingredients slowly, and beat 
 the sauce well between every addition. 
 
 SARDINE SANDWICHES. 
 
 Take as many tinned sardines as will be 
 wanted. Scrape the skin lightly off each fish, 
 split it open, cut off the tail, and remove any 
 bones there may be. Take thin slices of bread 
 from a stale loaf, butter these, and lay the 
 sardines between two of them. Cut away the 
 crust, and press the slices with the hand to 
 make them adhere. Cut them with a sharp 
 knife into long narrow sandwiches, and serve 
 on a dish covered with a neatly-folded napkin. 
 Garnish with parsley. 
 
 SARDINE SAUCE. 
 
 Take eight sardines, and remove the bones. 
 Make a butter sauce ready, with water or broth, 
 of the ordinary thickness. In this .boil the 
 bones of the fish, a bay-leaf, and a finely-minced 
 shallot, adding some pepper, nutmeg, or mace, 
 and a little lemon-juice. When the sauce is 
 properly flavoured, strain it, and add to it the 
 fish chopped small. 
 
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 SAR 
 
 SARDINE TOAST. 
 
 Bone eight smoked sardines, then pound them 
 in a mortar with two ounces of fresh butter, 
 a sprinkling of cayenne pepper, and four 
 peppercorns. Put into a small pan and heat 
 thoroughly. Lay the mixture on rounds or 
 sofuares of hot buttered toast, squeeze a little 
 lemon over, and serve. 
 
 SARDINES. 
 
 The best are the small sardines caught on 
 the coast of Provence in France. From a 
 thousand to twelve hundred fishing smacks are 
 annually engaged in catching these fish off the 
 coast of Brittany from Jvme to the middle 
 of October. The French often cure sardines 
 in red brine, and when thus prepared designate 
 them anchoisees or anchovied sardines. These 
 are packed in vessels previously used for hold- 
 ing w'ine, and exported to the Levant. When 
 quite fresh sardines are considered excellent : 
 they entirely lose their flavour, and become 
 quite insipid if kept for any length of time. 
 
 On the Mediterranean coasts of Italy and 
 France sardine fishing takes place in the sum- 
 mer months. The fish are cured by washing 
 in salt water, sprinkling with salt, removing 
 the head, gills, etc., washing again, drying in 
 the sun and wind, steeping in boiling olive-oil, 
 draining, and packing in small square tin 
 boxes; the boxes are filled up with oil, the lid 
 is soldered on, and the box is exposed for a 
 short time to the action of steam or hot water. 
 These cured sardines are largely exported to 
 various countries, where they are considered a 
 delicacy. The real sardine resembles a small 
 pilchard ; but many of the fish cured as sar- 
 dines are not genuine : they are either sprats, 
 pilchards, or small herrings. 
 
 SARDINES (h la Provengale). 
 
 Cut some neat fingers of toast, large enough 
 to hold a sardine; butter them slightly. Wipe 
 as many sardines as may be required, put one 
 on each finger of toast, dish them up, on a 
 round dish in the form of lattice work, and 
 keep the dish in a hot oven long enough to get 
 the sardines thoroughly hot. Have ready a 
 sauce made as follows. Put three well-beaten 
 eggs into a small saucepan, add a pat of 
 butter, a table-spoonful of cream, a tea-spoon- 
 ful of essence of anchovy, and a table-spoonful 
 of finely-chopped boiled onions ; season with 
 pepper and salt; 'stir over a fire till it thickens, 
 pour quickly over the dish of sardines, dust 
 with a pinch of cayenne pepper, and serve. 
 
 SARDINES AND CRAB, SAVOURY OF. 
 
 Bone six sardines, rub th«m through a small 
 sieve ; then add the flesh of a small crab, the 
 hard-boiled yolk of an egg, a pinch of cayenne, 
 a little cream, two ounces of bread-crumbs, an 
 ounce of butter, and a raw egg. Mix thoroughly, 
 then make into small balls, loll in beaten egg, 
 then in bread-crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. 
 Garnish with crisp parsley. Probable cost. 
 Is. 3d. 
 SARDINES, CANAPEES Or. 
 
 Take some slices of bread, and cut them 
 neatly into oval or octagon shapes. Toast them 
 slightly, or fry them in oil or butter till they are 
 of a nice yellow colour. Take some sardines, and 
 
 strip them from the bones. Lay one-half of 
 them aside, and pound the other to a smooth 
 paste with the yolks of three or four hard- 
 boiled eggs and some butter. Add mustard, 
 pepper, chives, minced parsley, tarragon, and 
 a little vinegar. When these ingredients are 
 thoroughly incorporated, spread the paste over 
 the prepared slice of roll. On the top lay the 
 other half of the sardines, cut into small strips ; 
 and place on each croquette little slices of 
 pickled gherkins, and here and there a shelled 
 prawn. 
 
 SARDINES, CURRIED. 
 
 Put an ounce of butter in a clean stewpan ; 
 when hot add a large sliced onion, a large 
 apple, peeled, cored, and sliced, and a dessert- 
 spoonful of desiccated cocoa-nut. Fry for a 
 few minutes, stirring occasionally, as neither the 
 onion nor the apple should be allowed to burn. 
 Add sufficient salt, dredge in by degrees a 
 table-spoonful of curry-powder, add a gill of 
 good stock, and let it simmer slowly for fifteen 
 minutes, taking care that it does not burn. 
 Thicken with a little flour and butter kneaded 
 together, add a tea-spoonful of sugar and a^ 
 dessert-spoonful of vinegar, and cook for 
 another ten or fifteen minutes. Take the sar- 
 dines and drain them carefully to free them 
 from oil, add them to the curry sauce, heat 
 up, and dish up neatly with a border of well- 
 boiled rice. 
 
 SARDINES, FRESH. 
 
 Clean the sardines, and press them gently 
 with a soft cloth till they are quite dry. Broil 
 them on a gridiron over a clear brisk fire, and 
 when they are done enough on one side turn 
 them upon the other. Sprinkle a little salt 
 over them, and serve very hot. Time to broil, 
 two minutes each side. Sufficient, six or eight 
 for a small dish. 
 SARDINES, POTTED. 
 
 Take a small box of sardines — either smoked 
 or plain — free th"em from skin and bone, pound 
 them with about half their' weight of fresh 
 butter; add cayenne and a grate of nutmeg, 
 and just a drop or two of essence of anchovies. 
 When quite smooth, press them firmly into 
 small jars, and pour clarified butter over the 
 top. Set aside in a cool place. 
 SARDINES, SPINACH WITH. 
 
 Boil the spinach. Before doing this let it lie 
 in water for a little while, and rinse it several 
 times in fresh water. Put it into boiling water 
 with a minced onion and plenty of salt, and let 
 it boil gently, uncovered, for eight or ten 
 minutes. Drain and chop the spinach. Take 
 a few sardines, remove the skin and bones, then 
 mince the fish, and stir with the vegetables. 
 Take a, good-sized piece of butter, and melt 
 it in a stewjpan, dredge in as much flour 
 as it will absorb, and add a little water or 
 broth, together with salt and pepper. Stir 
 to a thick sauce, then stir the spinach in. Send 
 to table when quite hot, garnishing the dish 
 with hard-boiled eggs sliced. 
 
 SARDINES, TO SERVE. 
 
 When the fish are to be served, open the 
 box with a tin-can opener, lift out as many 
 sardines as are needed, wipe them lightly, and 
 
SAS 
 
 778 
 
 SAU 
 
 arrange neatly on a small dish. Garnish with 
 chopped parsley and capers, and pour a little 
 fresh salad-oil over them. On no account use 
 the oil which is in the box. Send bread and 
 butter to table with them. 
 
 SASSAFRAS. 
 
 An agreeable beverage is made in North 
 America by infusing sassafras bark or sassafras 
 wood, and a similar beverage was once very 
 commonly sold at daybreak in the streets of the 
 metropolis, under the name of saloop. The 
 leaves of sassafras contain so much mucilage 
 that they are used for thickening soup. 
 
 SASSAFRAS (Invalid Cookery). 
 
 The simple infusion of sassafras is a useful 
 preparation in some complaints, and sassafras 
 tea is often found to be of great service in the 
 case of aged persons suffering from chronic 
 rheumatism. A few chips of the wood are fre- 
 quently added to common tea. Sassafras is a 
 cheap and agreeable beverage, and when or- 
 dinary tea, taken late in the evening, prevents 
 sleep, sassafras may be substituted. 
 
 SASSAFRAS CORDIAL. 
 
 Take half a pound of sassafras chips, two 
 ounces of compound extract of sarsaparilla, one 
 ounce of gum arable dissolved in white wine, 
 one ounce of juniper-berries bruised, two ounces 
 of pistachio-nuts blanched and beaten, one 
 ounce of syrup of lemons, two ounces of rose- 
 mary-leaves shredded finely, one ounce of sweet 
 marjoram shredded finely, one ounce each of 
 candied lemon and citron, nine ounces of 
 sugar candy beaten finely, twelve ounces of 
 stoned and cut muscatel raisins, three quarts 
 of sherry wine, and two quarts of proof spirit 
 of wine. Beat the nuts with a little of the 
 wine, and put all the above ingredients into 
 a jar, which cork and seal. Set the jar in a hot- 
 water bath, and let the cordial infuse eight 
 hours every day for a week. Keep it two 
 months ; then strain and filter, and use the cor- 
 dial when wanted. Sassafras cordial is greatly 
 improved by age. 
 
 SAUBAGLIONE. 
 
 {See Sabajone.) 
 SAUCE, FISH AND (a Scotch recipe). 
 
 Take a sufficient number of fresh haddocks, 
 clean them, and cut off the heads, tails, and 
 fins. Boil the latter thoroughly to make stock. 
 When done, strain it, and take the liquid part, 
 adding a little flour mixed with cold water, 
 butter, salt, and some chopped parsley, and 
 pour it over the fish, which has been previously 
 cut into pieces. Boil the whole till sufficiently 
 cooked. The result is said to be much more 
 savoury than if the fish are simply boiled in 
 water. 
 SAUCE FOR BOUILLI. (See Pot-au-Feu). 
 
 When the bouilli or boiled beef which has 
 been stewed in a pot-au-feu is to be served, a 
 sauce made as follows may be poured over it, 
 or sent to table in a tureen as an accompani- 
 ment. Mince a boiled carrot, and put it into a 
 stewpan with a table-spoonful of chopped pars- 
 ley, half a dozen button mushrooms, two or three 
 pickled cucumbers, some pickled walnuts, a 
 chopped onion, a little pepper, salt, and cayenne. 
 
 Pour over these ingredients a pint of good stock, 
 simmer all very gently together till the liquor 
 is considerably reduced and flavoured pleasantly. 
 Add thickened brown gravy to make the re- 
 quisite quantity of sauce, let the preparation 
 boil up, and serve. If more convenient, mush- 
 room ketchup may be substituted for the mush- 
 rooms and walnut pickle for the walnuts. Time 
 to prepare, about three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 SAUCE FOR FRESHWATER FISH. 
 
 Mince half a dozen mushrooms, half a dozen 
 onions, and a clove of garlic. The latter may 
 be omitted. Put the vegetables into a sauce- 
 pan, pour over them as much stock as will 
 cover them, and simmer gently till the sauce 
 is pleasantly flavoured. Strain the liquor 
 through a jelly-bag, and press with the back of 
 a wooden spoon to obtain as much sauce as 
 possible. Add a glass of claret, boil up once 
 more, and serve. A few drops of anchovy 
 essence may be added or not, as preferred, 
 and the sauce may be thickened with, brown 
 thickening. 
 
 SAUCE FOR RELISHING BEEF HOT OR COLD. 
 
 Put two tea-spoonfuls of prepared mustard 
 into a large cup, and mix with it a tea-spoonful 
 of powdered sugar, a salt-spoonful of salt, and 
 five table-spoonfuls of good vinegar. Stir this 
 preparation briskly for two or three minutes 
 with a wooden or silver fork, then pour it into 
 a tureen in which has been placed a stick of 
 horse-radish finely grated; stir the mixture 
 again, and serve. Probable cost of horse-radish, 
 2d. per stick. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 SAUCE, MIREPOIX, OR ESSENCE OF VEGE- 
 TABLES, FOR FLAVOURING. 
 
 When stock is already prepared for sauce, 
 and it requires flavouring, proceed as follows. 
 Take a sliced carrot, a sliced onion, two sticks 
 of celery cut small, a bunch of parsley, a sprig 
 of thymei, and a bay-leaf, together with a 
 shallot and an inch or two of raw ham or bacon- 
 rind, if these are at hand. Dissolve a slice of 
 fresh butter in a saucepan, and stir the above 
 ingredients briskly in the butter over a sharp 
 flre until they become brightly browned. Pour 
 in as much stock as will cover them, and sim- 
 mer gently. Add pepper and a little spice, if re- 
 quired. A glass of wine may be stirred in or 
 not. When the preparation is pleasantly and 
 rather strongly flavoured, strain it off for use. 
 A larger quantity may be made than is needed 
 for present use. If put in a cool place, it will 
 keep for some days in cool weather. Time to 
 simmer the flavouring, twenty to thirty minutes. 
 
 SAUCE, STORE, FOR COLD MEAT AND GAME. 
 
 Pound the flesh of five anchovies with three 
 cloves of garlic and six shallots. ~ Add half a 
 spoonful of cayenne pepper, half a spoonful of 
 white pepper, three blades of mace powdered, 
 one grated nutmeg, half a lemon, sliced, four 
 bay-leaves, and a sprig of basil. Put the in- 
 gredients into a saucepan, pour over them a 
 pint of walnut ketchup, a pint of mushroom 
 ketchup, half a pint of good vinegiar, and a 
 quarter of a pint of soy. Simmer all gently 
 together till the flavour of the ingredients is 
 extracted, strain, bottle securely, and store for 
 use. Time to boil, one hour. 
 
SAU 
 
 779 
 
 SAU 
 
 SAUCE, STORE, FOR COLD MEAT OR FISH. 
 
 Slice two cloves of garlic, put them into a 
 quart wine-bottle, and pour over them two table- 
 spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, the same of 
 walnut ketchup, with a table-spoonful of soy, 
 and half a pint of chilli vinegar. Put the 
 bottle on one side, and let it remain for six 
 days, shaking it frequently during the time. 
 On the seventh day fill up the bottle with good 
 ordinary vinegar, and in ten days strain it off. 
 Put the sauce into small bottles, cork these 
 closely, and store for use. 
 
 SAUCE, STORE, FOR FISH, GAME, STEAKS, 
 ETC. 
 
 Pound the flesh of six fine anchovies smoothly, 
 and with them six chopped cloves of garlic. 
 If the flavour of garlic is disliked, shallots may 
 be substituted, or they may be omitted. Add 
 a saltspoonful of bruised cloves and the same 
 of cayenne pepper, put the mixture into a sauce- 
 pan, pour over it half a pint each of mushroom 
 ketchup, walnut pickle, and soy, and simmer all 
 gently for ten minutes. Strain and bottle the 
 sauce for' use. 
 
 SAUCEPANS. 
 
 Under the general name of saucepans are 
 included utensils indispensable in cookery, of 
 different shapes and sizes, and of various lands. 
 A description of those generally lii use will be 
 found in another place. It may be said here, 
 however, that the cook cannot be too careful 
 to keep her saucepans sweet and clean, and to 
 do this she must fill them witk water the 
 moment she has finished using them, clean 
 them as soon as possible afterwards, on no 
 account put them away dirty, remember to dry 
 them before the fire a few minutes before put- 
 ting them away, and keep them in a dry place. 
 A celebrated French cook used to say that a 
 dirty saucepan was sufficient to spoil the effect 
 of a whole dinner. Besides being washed, 
 scoured, and rinsed inside each time they are 
 used, saucepans should be made bright outside 
 on the upper rim, and where the fire does not 
 touch them. When tinned saucepans are used, 
 they should be examined constantly, and re- 
 tinned as soon as ever they begin to redden, 
 as satisfactory cookery cannot be carried on 
 with an insufficiently tinned saucepan. It will 
 not only render whatever is cooked in it un- 
 wholesome, but will injure its colour and taste. 
 
 SAUCER CAKE. 
 
 Mix a quarter of a pound of flour with a 
 quarter of a pound of best arrowroot. Beat 
 four ounces of butter to cream, add the same 
 weight of powdered sugar, the flour and arrow- 
 root, one ounce of candied peel finely shredded, 
 and two well-whisked eggs. Beat the mixture 
 till it is smooth and light, put it into a shallow 
 dish lined with buttered paper, and bake in a 
 moderate oven. If the cake is put in an air- 
 tight tin, it will keep good for some time. 
 Time to bake, an hour or more. Probable cost. 
 Is. 2d. 
 SAUCER PUDDING (suitable for a child or invalid). 
 
 Mix a tea-spoonful of flour to a smooth paste 
 with a little cold milk, and stir into this as 
 much boiling milk as will make up the quantity 
 to a tea-cupful. Let the liquor cool, then add a 
 
 well-beaten egg and a little sugar and flavour- 
 ing. Pqur the preparation into a large buttered 
 saucer, and bake in a well-heated oven. When 
 done enough, turn the pudding upon a plate, and 
 serve with jam, or with a little sherry if pre- 
 ferred. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, 3d. Sufficient for one person. 
 
 SAUCES. 
 
 The skill and knowledge of a cook are shown 
 in nothing more assuredly than in the way in 
 which she manufactures and chooses sauces^ 
 M. Soyer used to say that sauces are to cookery 
 what grammar is to language and the gamut is 
 to music ; and another great authority says that 
 " a good sauce ought to call into activity each 
 ramification of the palatic organs." However 
 this may be, sauce ought certainly to serve either 
 as a relish or a finish to the meat which it ac- 
 companies : it ought, too, to be carefully made, 
 and attractively sent to table. It will be f ounf^ 
 that in this book the names of the sauces appro- 
 priate to be served with each dish are usually 
 mentioned in the instructions for making it. 
 With regard to sauces in general it should be 
 remembered that hot sauces should be served 
 very hot ; that when sauces need to be kept hot 
 they should not be kept boiling, but should be 
 put into a bain-marie, or, failing this, the sauce- 
 pan should be placed in a vessel containing 
 boiling water ; that eggs and acids should not 
 be added to sauce until it has cooled for two 
 minutes, and, after they have been added, the 
 sauce should be stirred without ceasing, and 
 should not be allowed to boil ; that cream 
 should be boiled before it is mixed with boiling 
 sauce, and that the sauce should be stirred well 
 after it is put in. An enamelled saucepan is 
 the best in which to make sauce, 
 
 SAUCES, TO COLOUR. 
 
 {See CoLouBiNS.) 
 SAUCES, TO THICKEN. 
 
 Sauces may be thickened with roux, brown 
 and white, arrowroot, ground rice, flour, 
 eggs, butter, and milk, or cream. (For 
 thickening with roux see Roux, Brown.} 
 When eggs are used, the yolks only are 
 needed. The sauce should be allowed to cool 
 for two minutes. The yolks should then be 
 beaten, mixed with a little of the sauce, and 
 added gradually to the rest. The sauce should 
 then be stirred without ceasing until it is quite 
 hot, and it should on no account be allowed to 
 boil. Flour, ground rice, and arrowroot should 
 first be mixed smoothly with a little cold liquor, 
 and to this should be added a little hot liquor. 
 The mixture should then be poured slowly with 
 one hand into the sauce, which should be well 
 stirred with the other, and it should be allowed 
 to boil until it is so thick that it will coat the 
 spoon. Butter and milk, or cream, though often 
 spoken of as thickening sauces, tend more to 
 enrich than to thicken them. Cream or milk 
 should be boiled before being added to boiling 
 sauce, and butter should always be stirred into 
 the sauce cold the moment before serving, and 
 after the saucepan has been taken from the fire. 
 
 SAUER KRAUT. 
 
 This preparation is largely used throughout 
 the northern parts of Europe, and especially ia 
 
SAU 
 
 780 
 
 SAU 
 
 Germany. It is served as an accompaniment 
 to smoked meats, boiled ham, bacon, beef, or 
 sausages. The taste for this delicacy is cer- 
 tainly an acquired one, but it is a very general 
 one in some districts. Sauer kraut is considered 
 an excellent antiscorbutic. Take large well- 
 grown cabbages with fine white hearts. Eemove 
 the outer leaves and stalks, and shred the cab- 
 bages very finely. Cover the bottom of a large 
 pan or tub with cabbage-leaves. Throw in the 
 cabbage as it is shredded, and sprinkle salt 
 evenly upon the layers. One handful of salt 
 will be amply sufficient for a large panful of 
 shredded cabbage; too much salt will prevent 
 fermentation. Keep pressing the cabbage 
 down closely as it is thrown in. When the 
 vessel is quite full, sprinkle a little salt over 
 the top, and cover it first with cabbage-leaves 
 and then with a linen cloth; lay a wooden 
 cover over all, and on this put a heavy weight. 
 Keep the pan in a warm cellar till fermentation 
 has begun. This may be known by small- white 
 globules forming on the surface. When the 
 moisture dries in a crust over the top the kraut 
 is ready for use. It should be kept in a cool 
 place till wanted. Once a week the cabbage- 
 leaves should either be renewed or washed, and 
 the linen cloth should be washed in cold water, 
 and replaced. Some persons put caraway-seeds 
 and juniper-berries amongst the layers, and 
 think the kraut is improved by the addition. 
 If, owing to any cause, after waiting two or 
 three days there is no sign of fermentation, a 
 cold weak brine of salt and water should be 
 poured over the cabbage. The cabbages will 
 be all the better if they are allowed to lie in a 
 cool corner for several days before being used. 
 Time, three weeks to prepare the kraut. It will 
 keep for a year. 
 
 SAUER KRAUT (another way). 
 
 Select sound solid cabbages, slice them across, 
 and place the slices in a barrel in layers about 
 four inches high ; over each layer strew a hand- 
 ful of salt and some caraway-seeds. Press the 
 whole down tightly, and when the barrel is 
 full place a heavy weight upon the end. After 
 standing a week, according to the temperature, 
 the mass will begin more or less to ferment; 
 and when the fermentation is over the barrel 
 should be headed up. There is no vinegar used 
 in the preparation. 
 
 SAUER KRAUT, TO COOK. 
 
 Lay a good-sized piece of butter in a sauce- 
 pan, and let it melt. Put in half the sauer 
 kraut, and lay on this the meat to be made 
 Teady with it : either ham or bacon smoked and 
 pared, pork, or any sort of sausage. Over all 
 place the other half of the kraut, pour in a 
 glassful of white wine, and add a little water 
 occasionally to moisten it. Cover the saucepan 
 closely, and let the contents stew gently till 
 the sauer kraut is soft and yellow. When 
 cooked enough, take out the meat. Dredge in 
 a table-spoonful of flour, let the kraut stew 
 half an hour longer, then place the meat again 
 in the saucepan to get quite hot. Stir the kraut 
 now and then with a wooden spoon, and take 
 care that it does not burn. What is left over 
 of the sauer kraut is good^warmed up on the 
 following day or a day or two after; it may be 
 
 served with some other meat. As an accom- 
 paniment to smoked meats, roast pork, sausages, 
 etc., sauer kraut may be prepared in the way 
 just described, but without the meat ; if so, stir 
 in a thickening of flour and butter before send- 
 ing to table. It is to be observed that sauer 
 kraut can hardly be cooked too much. It re- 
 quires at first from two and a half to three 
 hours' stewing. 
 
 SAUNDERS. 
 
 Mince one pouiid of under-cooked meat of 
 any kind, moisten with two or three spoonfuls 
 of good gravy, and season with pepper and salt. 
 Spread a layer of mashed potatoes on a dish, 
 put the mini;e upon them, and cover the whole 
 with mashed potatoes. Eough the surface of 
 the potatoes with a fork, and bake the pre- 
 paration in a moderate oven. When the top is 
 lightly browned the whole is done enough. 
 Send to table with it in a tureen a little of the 
 same gravy with which it was moistened. 
 Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 6d., 
 exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for three 
 or four persons. 
 
 SAUSAGE, BEEF, TO MAKE. 
 
 The great advantage of home-made sausages 
 over bought ones is that in the former case 
 one knows what is in them. Get some fresh 
 beef perfectly free from skin and gristle. Let 
 the lean be nearly double the quantity of fat, 
 but not quite. Put all through the mincing 
 machine, and flavour with powdered sagfiv 
 leaves — say, a tea-spoonful to every three 
 pounds of beef — half that quantity of thyme, 
 and some powdered allspice, nutmeg, and 
 pepper and salt. The best fat for the sausages 
 is good beef suet. Marjoram may be used in 
 place of sage. Those who like sausages highly 
 seasoned may increase the herbs and spices and 
 vice versd. The skins should be cleansed with 
 the most scrupulous care before filling. Beef 
 sausages are always best fried. Prick the skins 
 with a fork to prevent them bursting, and serve 
 with mashed potatoes. Probable cost, 7d. per 
 pound. 
 
 SAUSAGE CAKES, SOYER'S. 
 
 Chop some lean pork very fine, having pre- 
 viously detached all the skin and bone, and to 
 every pound of meat add three-quarters of a 
 pound of fat bacon, half an ounce of salt, a 
 salt-spoonful of pepper, the quarter of a nut- 
 meg, grated, six young green chopped onions, 
 and a little chopped parsley. When the whole 
 is well chopped, put into a mortar and pound 
 well, finishing with three eggs ; then have ready 
 a pig's caul, which cut into pieces large enough 
 to enfold a piece of the above preparation the 
 size of an egg, which wrap up, keeping to the 
 shape of an egg, but rather flattened, and broil 
 very gently over a moderate fire. 
 
 SAUSAGE DUMPLINGS. 
 
 Take as many sausages as it is intended to 
 make dumplings. Bend each one into a ring, 
 and sew or skewer it in that position. Enclose 
 it in good suet crust, pinch the edges securely 
 to prevent leakage, and tie each dumpling in 
 a separate cloth. When all are finished plunge 
 the dumplings into a pan of boiling water, and 
 boil quickly until done enough. Turn them out 
 
SAU 
 
 781 
 
 SAU 
 
 carefully, and servo at once. Brown sauce 
 should be sent to table with them. Sausages 
 dressed in this way are always liked by children. 
 Time to boil the dumplings, half to three-quar- 
 ters of an hour. Probable cost^ 3d. each. Suf- 
 ficient, one for each person, 
 
 SAUSAGE FRITTERS. 
 
 Mince finely one and a half pounds of pork, 
 season with pepper and salt, add a few bread- 
 crumbs, and blend together with a beaten egg. 
 Make the mixture into little flat cakes, egg and 
 bread-crumb them, and fry in boiling fat for 
 eight minutes. Probable coat. Is, 
 
 SAUSAGE, ITALIAN. 
 
 Mince two pounds of lean pork with one pound 
 of fat pork. Season the mixture with salt, 
 mixed spice, coriander-seed, and bruised ani- 
 seed. When the ingredients are thoroughly 
 blended, moisten the mixture with pig's blood 
 and white wine sufficiently to bind it together, 
 but be careful not to render it too moist. Cut 
 some narrow strips from the best part of a calf's 
 head, mix these with the mince, and put the 
 preparation into sausage-skins. Tie the ends 
 securely, plunge the sausages into boiling water, 
 and boil them gently until done enough. After- 
 wards dry them in a smoke-house, or in a chim- 
 ney over a wood fire, till they become hard. 
 Time to boil, half an hour. 
 
 SAUSAGE-MEAT CAKES. 
 
 Make the sausage-meat in the usual way, and 
 allow two parts of lean to one of fat. Season 
 nicely, and after mincing the meat pound it 
 lightly in a mortar. Make it up into round 
 cakes ; flour these, and fry them in hot fat till 
 they are lightly browned on both sides. Take 
 them up, drain them on a sieve, and serve on a 
 hot dish. Send brown sauce to table with them. 
 If liked, the sausage-cakes can be placed round 
 a dish with mashed potatoes in the centre. 
 Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, lOd. 
 to Is. per pound. 
 
 SAUSAGE-MEAT CAKES (another way). 
 
 Take two or more pounds of good sausage- 
 meat. Press it into a buttered dish, and bake 
 in a gentle oven. When done enough, turn it 
 cut, and send it to table with a little gravy 
 round it, and more in a tureen. If preferred, 
 the cake may be steamed over boiling water 
 instead of being baked. Time to bake, one hour 
 or more. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. 
 
 SAUSAGE-MEAT STUFFING, 
 
 Take equal weights of lean and fat pork. 
 Mince finely, first separately and afterwards 
 together, and mix with them a third of their 
 weight in finely-grated bread-crumbs. Season 
 the mixture with pepper, salt, and pounded 
 mace, and bind it together with yolk of egg. 
 When the ingredients are thoroughly blended, 
 the forcemeat is ready for use. If liked, a 
 little powdered mace and a small proportion 
 of chopped sage can be added to the prepara- 
 tion. Probable cost, one pound of stuffing, Isi 
 Sufficient for a moderate-sized turkey. 
 
 SAUSAGE PIE. 
 
 Mince separately one pound of lean beef, one 
 pound of sheep's or pig's liver, and half a 
 pound of fat pork. When finely shredded, mix 
 
 the ingredients thoroughly, and add two table- 
 spoonfuls of stale crumb of bread, grated, a 
 tea-spodnful of unmixed mustard, a tea-spoon- 
 ful of powdered white sugar, and a little pepper, 
 salt, and cayenne. Moisten the preparation with 
 two table-spoonfuls of cold water. Press it into 
 a buttered dish, lay one or two slices of fat 
 bacon on the top, and bake in a gentle oven. 
 Serve hot or cold. Time to bake, about two 
 hours. Probable cost. Is. lOd. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 
 SAUSAGE PUDDING. 
 
 Line a moderate - sized pudding - basin with 
 good suet crust ; fill it with one pound of fresh 
 pork sausages which have been scalded and have 
 had the skins removed, and pour over them a 
 sauce made as follows. Mince an pnion, and fry 
 it with two sage-leaves in butter till the onion 
 begins to turn yellow. Dredge a dessert-spoon- 
 ful of flour over it, and pour upon it . two or 
 three table-spoonfuls of good stock. Stir the 
 sauce over the fire till it boils, season with salt 
 and cayenne, let it cool, and strain it over the 
 sausages. Cover the pudding with a piece of 
 the pastry with which the dish was lined. 
 Tie it in a pudding-cloth, plunge it into boiling 
 water, and boil quickly till the pudding is done 
 enough. Turn it upon a hot dish, and send 
 brown gravy to table with it. Time to boil the 
 pudding, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 
 sausages. Is. per pound. 
 
 SAUSAGE ROLLS. 
 
 Take half a sausage cut lengthwise for each 
 roll. Enclose the half in pastry six inches 
 square and an eighth of an inch thick. Pinch 
 the edges securely, and then bake the rolls on 
 a baking-sheet in a well-heated oven. They 
 may be served hot or cold. Or take equal 
 weights of cold dressed chicken and tongue, or 
 cold roast veal and ham. Mince the meat 
 finely, and season well with salt, cayenne, and 
 powdered sweet herbs. The latter may be 
 omitted, if not liked. Press the mince together, 
 and enclose it in a puff-paste, or good pastry 
 that is large enough to contain it. Bake in a 
 well-heated oven. These rolls are especially 
 adapted for pic-nic parties. Time to bake, half 
 an hour for fresh meat, fifteen minutes for 
 cooked meat. 
 
 SAUSAGE TOAST (a breakfast dish). 
 
 Fry or bake two or three sausages. When 
 done enough, strip the skin from them, and 
 spread the meat on a slice of brown bread 
 toasted and buttered. Grate a spoonful of 
 Gruyere or Cheshire cheese over the meat, and 
 serve hot. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes to 
 fry the sausages. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient 
 for one person. ^ 
 
 SAUSAGES. 
 
 Sausages are a convenient method of pre- 
 serving many sorts of meat that would not 
 keep well otherwise for any length of time. 
 The principle of making all sausages is alike, 
 and consists in simply. chopping the particular 
 kind of meat employed, and seasoning it with 
 spices and herbs of various kinds, bread-crumbs 
 and eggs, salt, or mustard, or any of these 
 ingredients, mixed in such proportions as are 
 agreeable. Then the whole is enclosed in per- 
 
SAU 
 
 782 
 
 SAU 
 
 tions of the prepared intestines of a hog, sheep, 
 or calf, very well washed and scraped till 
 thoroughly clean. Amongst the herbs em- 
 ployed are the following : shallot, onions, leek, 
 sage, thyme, garlic, marjoram, and parsley. 
 For some kinds of sausages, besides meat, 
 anchovies, oysters, and red herrings are added. 
 The blood of various animals, as the ox, hog, 
 goose, etc., is used in this way, mixed with 
 oatmeal, crumbs of bread, and seasonings of 
 various kinds. The Germans have acquired a 
 high reputation for the manufacture of sausages, 
 in which smoked meat is generally used. 
 SAUSAGES (American). 
 
 Pass four pounds of lean pork and two pounds 
 of fat pork through a mincer. Mix together six 
 tea-spoonfuls of dried sage, three tea-spoonfuls 
 of black pepper, four and a half tea-spoon- 
 fuls of salt, half a nutmeg, grated, a small 
 tea-spoonful of ground mace, and half a tea- 
 spoonful of ground cloves, and add them to 
 the minced pork, mixing thoroughly. The mix- 
 ture may be put into sausage-skins and cooked 
 in the usual way. To cook without skins, make 
 it into cakes or sausage shapes, and fry them in 
 a little hot fat.^ They are also excellent rolled 
 in egg and cracker-crumbs, then dipped in 
 melted fat, and baked or grilled. Probable 
 cost, 3s. 6d. 
 SAUSAGES AND CABBAGE. 
 
 Cut off the outer leaves and the hard stalk 
 from a fine-hearted savoy or cabbage, and care- 
 fully cleanse it from all impurities. Slice it 
 finely, as if it were to be pickled, rinse it well, 
 and put it into a saucepan with as much boiling 
 (unsalted) water as will barely cover it. Let 
 it boil till quite tender, stirring occasionally 
 to keep it from burning to the bottom of the 
 saucepan. Add a little more water if necessary, 
 but be sparing in putting this in. When the 
 cabbage is tender, there ought to be in the pan 
 as much liquor only as will moisten the vege- 
 table. Lay a pound or more of fresh sausages 
 in the centre of the cooked cabbage, cover the 
 saucepan closely to keep in the heat and vapour, 
 and stew the sausage gently until done enough. 
 Lift it out, lay it on a round of toast in a hot 
 dish, strain the liquor in the pan over it and 
 the toast, and serve the cabbage neatly piled on 
 a separate dish. If there are any remains when 
 the dish is taken from the table, they may be 
 heated again in the same way, and sent to table 
 a second time. Supposing that the cabbage only 
 is left, it may be heated, put on a, dish with 
 poached eggs, accompanied by an equal number 
 of slices of toasted bacon laid upon it. Time 
 to stew the sausages, thirty to forty minutes. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for three or 
 four persons. 
 
 SAUSAGES, BAKED. 
 
 As sausages, and esijecially pork sausages, 
 need to be thoroughly cooked to be wholesome, 
 it is a good plan, when there is time, to bake 
 instead of frying them. Put them in a drip- 
 ping-tin in a single layer, placing a. little fat 
 in the dish with them, and bake in a moderately- 
 heated oven. When they are brown upon one 
 side, turn them upon the other ; if they are 
 freshly made they will not need to be pricked. 
 They should be baked very gently. When done 
 
 enough, lift them out, drain them, make brown 
 sauce for them, and serve very hot. Time to 
 bake, one hour and a half. Probable cost. 
 Is. Id. per pound. Sufficient, one pound for 
 three persons. 
 
 SAUSAGES, BOILED. 
 
 Put the sausages into boiling water, let them 
 boil up once, then draw the saucepan to the 
 side, and let the sausages simmer gently until 
 done enough. Drain them, and serve upon 
 toast. Time to boil the sausages, ten to fifteen 
 minutes, according to size. Probable cost, Is. 
 per pound. 
 SAUSAGES, BOLOGNA. 
 
 These sausages are generally put into large 
 skins and eaten uncooked. Ox-skins are the most 
 suitable for the purpose. Real Bologna sausages 
 can only be bought. To imitate them, take 
 three pounds each of lean beef and lean pork; 
 put the meat into hot water, and let it simmer 
 gently for half an hour. Take it up, shred it 
 finely, each kind separately, and mix with it 
 a pound and a half of finely-shredded beef suet. 
 Mix the meats thoroughly, season the mixture.' 
 with fine pepper, thyme, and ground mace, and 
 pound it to a smooth paste. Fill the prepared 
 skins with it, and in filling them put long thin 
 strips of fat bacon in among the meat. Tie the 
 skins in eight-inch lengths; put the sausages in 
 brine for ten days, then smoke them in the usual 
 way. Rub pepper over the outside, and hang 
 them in a. cool, dry place till wanted. They 
 will need only to be cut into slices and arranged 
 neatly on a napkin before being sent to table. 
 Time to smoke the sausages, three or four 
 months. Probable cost. Is. 4d. per pound. 
 SAUSAGES, FRIED. 
 
 Melt a little butter in a frying-pan, and as 
 soon as it is dissolved put in the sausages in a 
 single layer. Dredge flcur over them, and fry 
 over a very gentle fire till they are browned, 
 moving them about, that they may be equally 
 coloured all over. Drain the fat from them by 
 laying them on a hair sieve before the fire for 
 a minute or two, and serve them on a toast, or 
 round a mould of mashed potatoes. Send sauce 
 to table in a tureen (see Sausages, Sauce tob). 
 As sausages, especially when made of pork, need 
 to be well cooked, care must be taken to heat 
 them very gradually, so that they may not be 
 burnt outside before they are done enough in 
 the centre. When the oven is moderately 
 heated, they may with advantage be baked 
 instead of fried. Time to fry, fifteen to twenty 
 minutes. Probable cost. Is. per pound. Suf- 
 ficient, a pound of sausages for three persona. 
 
 SAUSAGES, FRIED, WITH APPLES. 
 
 Take half a pound of sausages and six apples. 
 Slice four of the apples into pieces as thick as a 
 five-shilling piece, and cut the remaining two 
 into quarters. Fry them, with the sausages, of 
 a fine light brown, and lay the sausages in the 
 centre of the dish and the apples round. 
 SAUSAGES, HOME-MADE. 
 
 Three or four recipes are here given for 
 making sausage-meat. Tastes vary, and the 
 quantity of seasoning used must vary with 
 them; but Ihe process of manufacture is always 
 the same. It should be remembered thiit though 
 
SAU 
 
 783 
 
 SAU 
 
 scraps and trimmings of meat may be used for 
 making sausages, they should be perfectly 
 sweet and palatable, and should be carefully 
 freed from skin and sinew, also that the 
 sausages will be lighter, though not quite so 
 inviting in appearance, if the meat is coarsely 
 rather than finely shredded. No. 1. — Shred 
 half a pound of sound beef suet, and one pound 
 of lean beef. Mix thoroughly, and pound the 
 mince in a mortar. Season with salt, pepper, 
 and spices. If skins are not used, the sausages 
 may, if liked, be dipped in egg and bread- 
 crumbs before being fried or baked. No. 2. — 
 Mince finely two pounds of lean pork and one 
 pound of fat bacon. Add a seasoning of two 
 tea-spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, two of 
 powdered sage, with a pinch of grated nutmeg 
 and powdered mace ; finely - shredded shallot 
 may be added, or not. Thoroughly mix the 
 seasoning with the meat; three-parts fill the 
 skins with the meat, and hang them in a cool 
 place till wanted. No. 3. — Mince separately 
 three pounds of lean and two of fat pork. 
 Mi* them, and add three table-spoonfuls of 
 powdered sage, two ounces and a half of salt, 
 and one ounce of pepper. Blend the ingredients 
 thoroughly. A small nutmeg, grated, and a 
 tea-spoonful of powdered mace may be added, 
 or not. No. 4. — Cut the crumb of a penny loaf 
 into slices, soak it in water till it is soft, then 
 squeeze it dry in a cloth. Mix it thoroughly 
 with two pounds of lean pork and a pound and 
 a half of faj pork; add pepper, salt, lemon 
 thyme, powdered eage, and grated nutmeg. 
 Half fill the skins with the mixture, and bake 
 or boil the sausages when wanted. They 
 should be used as soon as possible, as the soaked 
 bread will prevent them keeping. No. 5. — 
 Mince separately a pound of beef suet and a 
 pound of lean pork. Mix the ingrediehts, and 
 pound them thoroughly, and with them two 
 large table-spoonfuls of grated bread-crumbs. 
 Add a seasoning of salt, pepper, and powdered 
 sage, and bind the mixture together with the 
 yolks of two eggs. No. 6. — Take half a pound 
 of lean veal, half a pound of pork, fat and 
 lean together, and half a pound of beef suet. 
 Shred all finely, and mix thoroughly. Add a 
 small nutmeg, grated, a tea^spoonful of salt, a 
 quarter of a pound of finely-grated crumb of 
 bread, three sage-leaves chopped small, half a 
 salt - spoonful of pepper, and four inches of 
 lemon-rind finely shredded. A pinch of mar- 
 joram and of savoury may be added if liked. 
 Put the meat into skins, or form it into cakes, 
 and dress the sausages in the usual way. Prob- 
 able cost, sausages, 9d. to Is. 3d. per pound, 
 according to the quality of the meat used. 
 
 SAUSAGES, LYONS. 
 
 Take six pounds of lean pork from the chine, 
 three pounds of lean veal from the fillet, and 
 three pounds of pork fat. Mince the lean meat 
 finely, pound it in a mortar till smooth, and 
 cut the fat into dice. Mix thoroughly, and 
 season the whole with ten ounces of salt, a 
 quarter of an ounce of saltpetre, three or four 
 bruised shallots, half an ounce of ground 
 pepper, and a quarter of an ounce of pepper- 
 corns. Leave the mixture for twenty-four 
 hours. Procure some sausage-sHns, and carefully 
 
 examine them to see that they are thoroughly 
 cleansed; press the meat tightly into them, and 
 fasten tlie ends securely with string. Lay the 
 sausages in an earthen pan with salt, with a 
 small portion of saltpetre under and over them, 
 and let them remain for a week; take them 
 out, and dry them in a smoke-house or in a 
 chimney over a wood fire. Boil, three or four 
 bay-leaVes, a sprig of thyme, and a few sage- 
 leaves in some wine-lees, if procurable. Dip 
 the sausages into this, tie the ends with fresh 
 string, and again dry them. Wrap them in 
 paper, and store in a dry, cool place till wanted. 
 
 SAUSAGES, SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Lift the sausages from the pan, and put them 
 upon ix. sieve before a fire to drain. Pour away 
 all the fat excepting about a table-spoonful, 
 and if the fat in which the sausages were fried 
 is at all burnt, dissolve a little fresh butter 
 or fat in a clean saucepan. Stir into this as 
 much flour as will make a smooth' paste, rub it 
 briskly over the fire until it is brightly browned, 
 moisten gradually with boiling water or boiling 
 stock till it is as thick as cream, add a table- 
 spoonful of mushroom ketchup or walnut pickle, 
 and if necessary a, spoonful of browning. Boll 
 the sauce for a few minutes, place the sausages 
 in a dish, and strain the sauce over them. Send 
 mustard to table with them. Time to make the 
 sauce, ten to fifteen minutes. The above in- 
 gredients will make sufficient sauce for a, pound 
 of sausages. 
 SAUSAGES, SAVOURY. 
 
 Take equal quantities of fat and lean pork. 
 Kub the meat well with salt, and a little salt- 
 petre, and pepper, or lay it in brine, and leave 
 it for six days. Take it up, mince it finely, and 
 with it a couple of shallots or a little onion, 
 and add pepper and allspice to taste. Put it 
 into large skins, tie both ends, cover with mus- 
 lin, and hang the sausages up in a smoke-house 
 for ten days or a fortnight. Eub ground ginger 
 over the outside, and leave the sausages in a 
 cool place till wanted. Boil the sausages or 
 not, according to taste, cut them into thin 
 slices, and serve them cold. Time to boil, half 
 an hour. Probable cost. Is. Id. per pound. 
 SAUSAGES, STEWED, WITH CHESTNUTS. 
 
 Take one pound of delicate sausage-meat, 
 seasoned with salt and cayenne, but without 
 any herbs. Divide it into small round cakes 
 three-quarters of an inch thick, ^nd fry these 
 in hot fat till they are lightly browned on both 
 sides ; drain them on a sieve. Throw half , a 
 hundred fine Spanish chestnuts into boiling 
 water, and let them boil for eight or ten 
 minutes. Dry them, and when nearly cool make 
 a little incision in the outer skin bf each nut 
 to keep it from bursting. Eoast the nuts, and 
 when they are soft skin them. Pour the fat in 
 which the sausages were fried into a delicately 
 clean saucepan ; then stir a tea-spoonful of flour 
 smoothly into it, and beat the paste over the 
 fire till it is lightly coloured. Add gradually 
 half a pint of good stock, a small bunch of 
 savoury herbs, and a seasoning of salt and 
 cayenne. A glass of wine may be put in or not. 
 Let the sauce boil up cnce, put in lightly the 
 sausages and chestnuts, and simmer all gently 
 together for an hour. Pile the chestnuts in the 
 
8AU 
 
 784 
 
 SAV 
 
 centre of a hot dish, arrange the sausages round 
 them, and strain the sauce over all. Serve very 
 hot. Probable cost, sausage-meat. Is. per pound. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 SAUSAGES, TOMATO. 
 
 To four pounds of pork sausage-meat allow 
 twelve ounces of tomato-pulp. To prepare the 
 latter, put some ripe tomatoes in a stewpan and 
 cook until soft. Pass through a sieve to leave 
 skins and seeds behind. Put the pulp into the 
 pan, with salt and cayenne and a pinch of white 
 sugar. Stir and boil for about ten minutes, 
 then turn out into an earthen vessel to get cold 
 before mixing it with the pork. It must be 
 weighed after cooking and cooling, These 
 sausages should be freshly made as required. 
 Probable cost. Is. per pound. 
 
 SAUSAGES, TO PREPARE THE SKINS FOR. 
 
 A hog's or an ox's intestines are used to put 
 sausages into. They are thus prepared. Empty 
 them, cut them into lengths, and lay them for 
 three or four days in salt and water, or weak 
 lime-water. Turn them inside out two or three 
 times, and scrape them well. Rinse them well, 
 dry them with a soft cloth, and they will be 
 ready for use. 
 
 SAUSAGES, VEAL. 
 
 Take any quantity of lean veal with half its 
 weight in fat pork. Mince the two separately, 
 then mix them, and pound the mixture in a 
 mortar till it is quite smooth. Season with salt, 
 pepper, and powdered mace, form it into cakes 
 about three-quarters of an inch thick, flour these 
 well, and fry them in plenty of hot fat. Drain 
 them, and serve very hot. Time to fry, about 
 ten minutes. Probable cost, sausages. Is. Id. 
 per pound. 
 
 SAUSAGES, WITH CRESS AND PICKLES. 
 
 Cook some sausages a nice brown colour; 
 glaze them, and serve on a hot dish with toast 
 under them. Put some water-cress round, 
 plainly dressed with a little oil, vinegar, salt, 
 and pepper, and send sweet pickles to table. 
 Cost, according to kind of sausages used. 
 
 SAUTE-PAN. 
 
 This is a shallow copper vessel , with two 
 handles, used in French cookery to sauter, which 
 is a term of art nearly but not quite equivalent 
 to frying : for in this operation the fillets of 
 meat are frequently turned or tossed over, and 
 a small quantity only of fatty matter is em- 
 ployed ; hence the term sauter, " to jump." 
 M. Ude makes the following remark regard- 
 ing saute or dishes fried lightly : " Mind, you 
 must never let the saute be too mvich done. 
 These dishes are very difficult to make in perfec- 
 tion. When they are too much done they are 
 not eatable. It is this point of perfection in the 
 management of cookery which distinguishes the 
 good from the iad cook." 
 
 SAVARIN CAKE. 
 
 Put one pound of dried and sifted flour into 
 a pan, and make a hollow in the centre. Dis- 
 solve half an ounce of German yeast in a small 
 quantity of warm milk, and set the sponge by 
 pouring this into the hollow, and beating into 
 it with the fingers about a quarter of the flour. 
 Sprinkle flour over the batter thus made, put 
 
 the basin in a warm place, and let the sponge 
 rise slowly to twice its size. Work into it with 
 a spoon or with the right hand a quarter of a 
 pint of warm milk and two eggs, and add 
 gradually three-quarters of a pound of butter 
 beaten to a cream, half an ounce of salt dis- 
 solved in a little warm water, two ounces of 
 powdered sugar, the eighth of a pint additional 
 milk, and three more eggs. Lastly, add two 
 ounces of candied peel cut small. The addi- 
 tions should be made very gradually, the eggs 
 being put in one at a time, and the preparation 
 being beaten well until it leaves the sides of the 
 bowl easily. Butter the inside of a fluted mould 
 rather thickly, and sprinkle a table-spoonful of 
 blanched and chopped almonds on the butter. 
 Beat the paste up again, half fill the mould with 
 it ; let it stand in a warm place till it has risen 
 level with the top of the mould. Tie a broad 
 band of butteredT paper round the top of the 
 mould, to keep the paste from running over 
 the sides, and bake the cake in a moderate oven. 
 When done enough, turn it out carefully, run a 
 skewer into several parts of it, and pour over 
 and into it a thick syrup flavoured with Cura9oa 
 or any other suitable liqueur. Sprinkle pow- 
 dered sugar over the surface, and send the cake 
 to table warm. Time to bake, one hour or more. 
 Probable cost, 3s., exclusive of the liqueur. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 SAVE-ALL PUDDING. 
 
 Put any scraps of bread there may be into a 
 bowl, and over a quarter of a pound of these 
 pour a pint of boiling milk. Let the bread soak 
 till soft, then beat it well with a fork till no 
 lumps remain. Add, whilst beating, two eggs, 
 two table-spoonfuls of finely-shredded suet, or a 
 slice of sweet butter or dripping, two table- 
 spoonfuls of picked currants, two table-spoon- 
 fuls of powdered sugar, and a quarter of a nut- 
 meg, grated, or any other suitable flavouring. 
 Two apples, pared, cored, and quartered, may 
 be added to the pudding or not. Pour the mix- 
 ture into a buttered dish, and bake in a well- 
 heated oven. When the pudding is set and 
 nicely browned on the surface it is done enough. 
 Time to bake, an hour or more. Probablie cost, 
 8d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 SAVELOY. 
 
 Under this name we have a kind of sausage 
 common in the shops of the metropolis. The 
 saveloy differs from the ordinary pork sausage 
 only in its being made of young salted pork; 
 it is highly seasoned, and a little saltpetre is 
 added to give the meat a red colour. It is much 
 in favour with the humbler classes in London 
 during the winter months. 
 
 SAVELOYS. 
 
 Take a piece of tender pork, free from skin 
 and gristle, and weighing about two pounds. 
 Salt it with common salt and a little saltpetre. 
 When it has lain in the salt two or three days, 
 mince it finely, and season with a tea-spoontul 
 of pepper and four sage-leaves chopped small. 
 Mix it well with the third of a pound of bread- 
 crumbs. Put the mixture into the skins, tie 
 the ends securely, and steam or boil the saVeloys 
 gently until done enough. Serve hot or cold. 
 Time to cook, half an hour. Probable cost, Id. 
 or 2d. each. 
 
SAV 
 
 785 
 
 SAV 
 
 SAVOURY BATTER PUDDINGS. 
 
 The foundation of these is the same as for 
 Yorkshire Pudding,, To this should be added 
 a salt-spoonfiul of pepper, and a little' grated 
 nutmeg or other spioe. Some chopped parsley 
 and thyme will give a very pleasant zest, and, 
 with the addition of a dish of baked or fried 
 onions, a satisfying and cheap meal for children 
 is easily obtained. 
 SAVOURY CAKE. 
 
 Take two large table-spoonfuls of fine flour, 
 and mix it smoothly with four eggs, adding 
 enough milk to make the preparation of the con- 
 sistency of cream. Stir well, and add salt to 
 taste and some finely-minced chives. Butter a 
 shallow tin or dish, and bake till the cake is of 
 a fine yellow. 
 
 SAVOURY CUSTARD FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 Mix a dessert-spoonful of cornflour to a 
 smooth paste with a little cold beef-tea, and 
 then add gradually as much more beef-tea as 
 will make the quantity up to half a pint. Stir 
 the preparation over the fire till it begins to 
 thicken, pour it out, and serve. If preferred, 
 this custard may be made with any good broth 
 instead of beef-tea. Time, five or six minutes 
 to stir the custard over the fire. 
 
 SAVOURY DUMPLINGS. 
 
 Mix two ounces each of flour, white bread- 
 crumbs, wholemeal, and oatmeal; rub in three 
 ounces of clarified fat, and add a salt-spoonful of 
 salt and nearly as much pepper. Then mix in 
 half a tea-spoonful of baking-powder, and the 
 same of mixed sweet herbs, with a little ground 
 mace or nutmeg. Beat up an egg, and put it 
 in with sufiicient milk to make a paste that can 
 be formed into dumplings. These may be boiled 
 or steamed. Dumplings the size of a hen's egg 
 will take about an hour. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 SAVOURY DUMPLINGS (another way.) 
 . Mix half a pound each of bread-crumbs and 
 flour, and a sm-ill tea-spoonful of baking-pow- 
 der. Put in two or three ounces of fat bacon 
 scraped, with a good seasoning of salt and 
 pepper, a table-spoonful of chopped onion, and 
 a tea-spoonful of sage and parsley mixed. 
 Make into a stiff paste with skimmed milk, form 
 into convenient-sized dumplings, and boil for an 
 hour or more, according to size. When served 
 with boiled meat, these can be boiled with the 
 meat. Probable cost, 8d. 
 
 SAVOURY PIE. 
 
 Butter a pie-diah very thickly, and cover the 
 bottom with a layer of chopped mushrooms. 
 Place upon these two ouncjfes of tapioca which 
 has been soaked for ten minutes in a quarter of 
 a pint of water, and sprinkle over it a moderate- 
 sized onion and two or three sage-leaves chopped 
 small. Add three hard-boiled eggs, also chopped 
 small, and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Lay 
 two ounces or more of butter broken into little 
 pieces here and there on the surface, cover the 
 dish with pastry, and bake in a well-heated 
 oven. When the pastry is done the pie will be 
 cooked enough 
 
 SAVOURY PUDDING. 
 
 Beat up a tea-spoonful of cornflour with a 
 little cold water to a very smooth paste, and 
 
 2y 
 
 add to it the yolks of two eggs and the white 
 of one, well beaten. Add half a pint of beef- 
 tea, cold, and free from fat. Mix the whole 
 well with a tea-spoonful of fine bread-crumbs, 
 and leave it to stand for a short time. Put 
 into a basin, and steam for about half an hour. 
 This may be served either hot or cold. 
 
 SAVOURY RICE. 
 
 Put half a pound of rice into a saucepan with 
 a slice of butter or dripping, a seasoning of salt 
 and spice, and three pints of water. Simmer it 
 gently till it is tender, drain it, pile it upon a 
 hot dish, cover the surface with a layer of grated 
 Cheshire cheese, and serve. Or, boil half a 
 pound of rice in three pints of water till 
 tender. Season with pepper and salt, add a 
 slice of dripping and two or three onions 
 chopped small, stir the rice over the fire till 
 the onions are tender, and serve in a hot dish. 
 Or, break three pounds of meat-bones into small 
 pieces. Put these into a large stewpan, and 
 pour over them five quarts of cold water. Bring 
 the liquor gradually to the boil, skim carefully, 
 draw the saucepan to the side,' let its contents 
 simmer gently for four hours, and carefully re- 
 move the scum as it rises. A small bunch of 
 savoury herbs may be stewed with the stock 
 for the last hour. Slice an onion, and cut up a 
 quarter of a pound of vegetables, composed of 
 equal portions of carrots, turnips, celery, etc. 
 Fry these in butter, stirring them briskly over 
 the fire till the onions begin to turn yellow, 
 sprinkle over them a quarter of a pound of fine 
 oatmeal, and pour the stock from the bones 
 upon them. Add two ounces of soaked rice, boil 
 all gently together till this is tender. Season 
 with pepper and salt,, and serve. Time, five 
 hours. Probable cost, la. Sufficient for ten or 
 twelve persons. 
 
 SAVOURY SPIRIT, FOR IMPARTING A FLAVOUR 
 OF HERBS TO SOUPS, SAUCES, ETC. 
 
 Take one ounce each of dried lemon-thyme, 
 sweet marjoram, sweet basil, and winter savory. 
 Mix them, and put them into a stone jar with a 
 quarter of an ounce of grated lemon-rind, a 
 quarter of an ounce of minced shallot, and two 
 saltspoonfuls of bruised celery-seed. Pour over 
 them a quart of fine proof spirit, and let them 
 infuse for the space of ten days. Strain the 
 liquor, bottle closely, and store for use. If 
 liked, vinegar can be used instead of spirit, but 
 it will not draw out the flavour of the herbs 
 so well. 
 
 SAVOURY SPIRIT, FOR IMPARTING A FLAVOUR 
 OF SPICE TO SOUPS, SAUCES, ETC. 
 
 Mix thoroughly two ounces of powdered black 
 pepper with one ounce of powdered allspice and 
 half an ounce of grated nutmeg. Put the pow- 
 dered mixture into a jar, and pour over it a 
 quart of fine proof spirit. Let it infuse for ten 
 days, then strain off the liquor, bottle closely, 
 and store for use. If preferred, tbe powder may 
 be prepared as follows. Pound in a mortar a 
 quarter of an ounce of ginger, a quarter of an 
 ounce of grated nutmeg, two drachms of cayenne 
 pepper, half an ounce of ground black pepper, 
 half an ounce of grated lemon-rind, a (luaiter 
 of an ounce of allspice, an ounce of dry salt, 
 and half an ounce of French mustard. Proceed 
 as before. 
 
SAV 
 
 786 
 
 SAV 
 
 SAVOURY TOASTS. 
 
 Savoury toasts may be served as relishes at 
 breakfast or luncheon, or they may fill a 
 corner of the dinner-table. They may be varied 
 at pleasure, and, if agreeably flavoured, will 
 constitute appetising trifles at small expense. 
 To prepare them, cut some slices of crumb of 
 bread half an inch thick, toast them, butter 
 thickly, and spread upon them any highly- 
 seasoned savoury mixture. Put them into the 
 oven to make them hot, and serve. Any cold 
 ragout or stewed vegetables heated in thick 
 sauce, grated ham or tongue beaten up over 
 the fire with egg and cream till thick, truffles 
 or mushrooms stewed in butter, seasoned, and 
 minced, or any similar preparation, may be used 
 to spread upon the toasts. Anchovies pounded 
 may be used in this way also. They are prepared 
 as follows. Wash and bone the anchovies, mince 
 finely, and pound them to paste in a mortar 
 with a little piece of butter and a moderate 
 quantity of cayenne. Work the whole to a 
 smooth paste, spread it upon the buttered toast, 
 and put into a Dutch oven till it is quite hot. 
 
 SAVOY BISCUITS. 
 
 Take twelve parts of sugar, seven parts of 
 flour, and twelve parts of eggs, and add ground 
 lemon-rind by way of flavouring. Bake in the 
 usual way, and after the biscuits have been » 
 few minutes in the oven grate a little sugar over 
 the top of them. 
 
 SAVOY BISCUITS, COLD. 
 
 Take a little more than half a pound of very 
 fine dry flour, one pound of very dry pounded 
 sugar, and fourteen or fifteen eggs, very fresh; 
 if the eggs are large, fourteen are sufficient. 
 Easp over the sugar the peel of two lemons or 
 oranges and let it dry; then have two vessels, 
 one for the whites and one for the yolks ; break 
 the eggs one by one, and be particular in 
 smelling them, as one bad one will spoil all ; 
 put the dry sugar with the yolks, and work 
 them together with two new wooden spoons ; 
 next whip the whites ■very firm, and, to prevent 
 them turning, put with them a small pinch of 
 calcined alum ; when the whites are very firm, 
 take half to mix with the yolks ; then put all to- 
 gether, put the flour into a hair sieve, and sift it 
 over the eggs ; mix gently with the whites, then 
 butter a mould, and powder it over with fine 
 sugar; put the biscuit into the mould a little 
 at a time. Put some ashes on a baking-dish, 
 and put the mould over this in the oven ; the 
 heat must be moderate. About one hour is re- 
 quisite to bake this biscuit, and it must not bo 
 moved till it is quite done. 
 
 SAVOY BISCUITS, HOT. 
 
 , Take a dozen fresh eggs, break them into a 
 vessel, which is to be put into another contain- 
 ing some water nearly boiling. With these eggs 
 mix a pound of superfine pounded sugar. Beat 
 them well in the vessel which stands in the 
 hot water. When you perceive that the eggs 
 are no longer soft, put three-quarters of a pound 
 of flour into a silk sieve not very closely woven ; 
 mix the flour well with the eggs, which is done 
 by shaking the sieve, then add about two spoon- 
 fuls of orangcrflower water. If you only use 
 lemon, put in a spoonful of cold water. Rub a 
 
 mould over with butter; powder some sugar 
 round, fill the mould with the preparation, 
 powder some sugar over it, and bake in an oven 
 moderately hot. Ascertain with a little skewer 
 whether the middle part is siifficiently baked 
 before you take it out of the oven. If the bis- 
 cuit is not very large, it will be done in three- 
 quarters of an hour. Biscuits, like other pas- 
 tries of a large size, require the oven not to be 
 too hot, and therefore they must be kept in a 
 longer time. 
 
 SAVOY BISCUITS, OR LADIES' FINGERS. 
 
 These biscuits are used for making a number 
 of fancy dishes. They contain a good deal of 
 nourishment, and are ex;cellent for the young 
 and weakly when soaked in beef-tea or milk. 
 To make them, break six eggs, and separate 
 the whites from the yolks. Beat the yolks 
 well, and whilst beating strew in six ounces 
 of powdered and sifted sugar which has been 
 rubbed upon the rind of a lemon before being 
 broken. Beat the mixture till smooth, and add 
 gradually three-quarters of a pound of dry flour 
 and the whites of the eggs beaten to a solid 
 froth. Bake the biscuits in fluted tins sold for 
 the purpose, lined with buttered paper; or, if 
 these are not at hand, draw the paste in straight 
 lines upon thick paper, or make little cases with 
 buttered writing-paper. The biscuits should be 
 made in the shape of a finger, three-quarters of 
 an inch wide, and about four inches long. Bake 
 in a quick oven. When putting the biscuits 
 away, lay them in couples back to back. If pre- 
 ferred, a tea-spoonful of orange-flower or rose- 
 water may be used instead of lemon-juice to 
 flavour the biscuits. Time to bake, eight 
 minutes. Probable cost. Is. 8d. per pound. 
 Or whisk twelve eggs thoroughly with three 
 table-spoonfuls of water, and add very gradually 
 one pound of powdered and sifted sugar. Beat 
 the mixture till it is as smooth and thick as 
 cream, then stir into it one pound of dried and 
 sifted flour. Mould it into long cakes, and bake 
 in a slow oven. 
 
 SAVOY CABBAGE. 
 
 The savoy is a large close-hearted cabbage, 
 seasonable in winter. It may be dressed ac- 
 cording to the instructions already given for 
 boiling cabbages. A savoy cabbage will need 
 to boil thirty nHnutes or more, according to its 
 size. 
 
 SAVOY CABBAGE (a fa Cr^me). 
 
 Slice a savoy into thin strips, and in doing 
 so remove ths stalk entirely. Wash and drain 
 the savoy, and boil in the usual way till tender. 
 Turn it into a colander, press the water from 
 it, and afterwards mince it slightly. Dissolve 
 a slice of fresh butter in a clean saucepan, put 
 in the savoy, season with pepper and salt, and 
 stir it over the fire for a few minutes till it is 
 dry. Dredge a. table-spoonful of flour over it, 
 and add very gradually a quarter of a pint of 
 thick cream. Serve very hot. Time, thirty to 
 forty minutes to boil the savoy. Probable cost, 
 2d. to 4d. each. Sufficient, a moderate-sized 
 savoy for four persons. 
 
 SAVOY CABBAGE, STEWED. 
 
 Take one moderate-sized savoy — or two cab- 
 bages. Cut it into thin slices as if it were 
 
SAV 
 
 787 
 
 SAV 
 
 going to be pickled, and place it in a stewpan 
 in wMch a slice of fresh butter has been already 
 dissolved. Let it simmer gently for two hours. 
 Take up the savoy, thicken the quantity of liquor 
 which has run nova it with flour, add pepper 
 and salt, and serve very hot. A savoy or cab- 
 bage prepared in this way is much superior to 
 one that is plainly boiled. Time to stew, two 
 hours. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. each. Suf- 
 fioienti one moderate-sized savoy for three or 
 four persons. 
 
 SAVOY CAKE. 
 
 Weigh seven large fresh eggs, and take their 
 weight in dried flour, and a little more than 
 half their weight in sifted sugar. Break the 
 eggs, and separate the ydlks from the whites. 
 Beat the former in a bowl, and add the sugar to 
 them very gradually, together with a little grated 
 lemon-rind, a spoonful of orange-flower or rose- 
 water, or any other suitable flavouring. Add 
 the flour a little at a time, and continue to 
 beat the mixture for twenty minutes. Butter 
 a mould, sprinkle powdered sugar upon the 
 butter, and shake off all that will not adhere. 
 Tie a strip of buttered paper round the top of 
 the mould to keep the preparation from rolling 
 down the sides whilst it is being baked. Pour 
 in the cake, and three-parts fill the mould with 
 it. When done enough let it stand for a few 
 minutes, then shake it well to loosen it, and 
 turn it out carefully. This cake makes very good 
 jam sandwiches. Time to bake, an hour and a 
 quarter or a little more. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 SAVOY CAKES. 
 
 Take one pound of fine sifted sugar, add the 
 yolks of ten eggs — ^keeping the whites in a 
 separate pan — and set the eggs and sugar, if in 
 summer, in cold water; if there is any ice, set 
 the pan upon it, as it will enable the eggs to be 
 beaten finer; then beat the yolks and sugar 
 well with a wooden spoon for twenty minutes, 
 and put in the grated rind of a lemon. Beat up 
 the whites with a whisk until they become quite 
 stiff and white as snow. Stir them into the 
 batter by degrees, then add three-quarters of 
 a pound of well-dried flour. Put all in a mould 
 in a slack oven to bake. 
 
 SAVOY PUDDING. 
 
 Rub six ounces of stale savoy cake to crumbs, 
 and pour upon these a quarter of a pint of boil- 
 ing milk. Let them soak for half an hour, then 
 beat the mixture with a fork till smooth, and 
 add four ounces of fresh butter, four ounces of 
 finely-shredded candied peel, the well-beaten 
 yolks of four eggs, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, 
 and two table-spoonfuls of brandy. Beat the 
 mixture for some minutes, put it into a cool 
 place for an hour, and beat it up again. Put 
 it into a buttered dish, and bake in a brisk oven. 
 Whisk the whites of the eggs till firm, sweeten 
 them, and flavour them pleasantly. Put them 
 on the pudding, and place this in the oven a 
 few minutes longer. When the eggs are set 
 the pudding is ready for serving. Time to bake 
 the pudding, half an hour. Probable cost. 
 Is. 9d, Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 OAVOY SOUP. 
 
 Boil a moderate-sized savoy in the usual way 
 till tender. Put it into a colander, and press 
 
 the water from it, then turn it into a clean 
 stewpan, pour over it as much beef, veal, or 
 chicken broth as will thoroughly cover it, place 
 the lid on the stewpan, and let its contents 
 simpler gently for an hour. Dissolve four ounces 
 of sweet butter in a separate saucepan, and stir 
 as much flour into this as will make a smooth 
 paste. Beat the mixture briskly over the fire 
 until it is lightly coloured without being at all 
 burnt, slice two onions into it, and fry them 
 lightly. Moisten the paste with a little of the 
 boiling soup, add it gradually to the rest, and 
 boil the whole a few minutes longer. Skim 
 the soup carefully, and mix with it a quart of 
 boiling milk. If liked, a few crackers may be 
 soaked in the milk before it is added to the 
 soup. Serve very hot. Time, two hours. Prob- 
 able cost, 9d. per quart. Sufficient for eight 
 or ten persons. 
 SAVOY SPONGE. 
 
 Beat the yolks of three eggs lightly, and with 
 them four ounces of powdered sugar and a small 
 pinch of salt. Stir m two ounces of cornflour, 
 and beat the mixture again till it is quite 
 smooth. Add the whites of the eggs whisked 
 to froth; pour the preparation into a buttered 
 mould, the inside of which has been lightly 
 covered with powdered sugar. Flavour the cake 
 with any suitable flavouring, and bake in a 
 moderate oven. When done enough, turn it 
 out carefully. Time to bake, about half an 
 hour. Probable cost, 8d. 
 SAVOY, VARIETIES OF. 
 
 The savoy is distinguished from the other close 
 or hearted cabbages by its wrinkled leaves, and 
 from the Brussels sprouts by its cabbaging in 
 large full heads. The latter is considered a sub- 
 variety. The varieties of savoy are — the large 
 green; the cliou le plus gros, tardif des ve.rtus, 
 or German savoy, a superior variety, very dis- 
 tinct from the common large green ; the yellow ; 
 the dwarf; and the globe. Loudon gives the 
 following estimate of the value of the different 
 sorts. The green savoy is the least hardy, 
 and must be used flrst. The London market is 
 generally supplied with it through the month 
 of November, and until the plants are injured 
 by frost. The dwarf savoy is hardier than the 
 preceding, bearing well the attack of the first 
 winter frosts, hj which the delicacy of its 
 flavour is materially improved; and from its 
 small size it is better adapted to, the tables of 
 private families. When the whole class is cul- 
 tivated, this must be considered the second 
 sort in succession. The best plants grow close 
 to the ground, not exceeding one foot in height. 
 The yellow savoy, by its hardiness, enables us 
 to continue the use of savoys till mid-winter. 
 It does not yield to any of the others in good- 
 ness, and by many persons it is preferred, being 
 considered as much sweeter than any other 
 kind." 
 SAVOYS, DRY. 
 
 Whisk the whites of fifteen eggs to a firm 
 froth, and sprinkle a pound of powdered sugar 
 into this with the left hand, at the same time 
 beating it lightly with the right. Add eight, 
 ounces of dried flour, and flavour the prepara- 
 tion with grated lemon-rind or orange-flower 
 water. Pour the mixture into a shallow paper 
 
SAX 
 
 788 
 
 8CA 
 
 case, and bake in a moderate oven. When done' 
 enough, let the biscuit cool, and with a sharp 
 knife cut it into thin slices. Dry these in a 
 screen or in a cool oven till they are lightly 
 browned, then put them aside till wanted. 
 Time to bake, about half an hour. Probable 
 cost, 38. 
 
 SAXON PUDDING. 
 
 According to high authority this is one of 
 the best puddings of Germany. Bojl a gill of 
 milk, put into a stewpan half a pound of flour. 
 Gradually dilute the flour with the milk, so as 
 to obtain a fine smooth paste. Add four ounces 
 of butter, and salt to taste. Place the saucepan 
 on a moderate fire, stir the preparation till it 
 begins to thicken, then take it off the fire, but 
 still continue working it. When the paste is 
 smooth, place it again on the fire, working it 
 still, and gradually introduce into it the yolks 
 of ten eggs, four ounces of oranged sugar, four 
 ounces of butter, and a little sale. When the 
 preparation is frothy, introduce seven or eight 
 whipped whites of eggs. Pour the preparation 
 into a dome or a cylinder mould which has been 
 buttered and glazed with sugar and potato-flour. 
 Set the mould in a stewjian with boiling water 
 reaching to half its height. Bake in a slack 
 oven for forty minutes. 
 
 SAXON SALAD (sometimes called Sardonic Salad). 
 Take two Dutch herrings, soak them in water, 
 boil, cut them first into thin slices and then into 
 narrow strips. Cut up cold meat in the same 
 way, also some sour juicy apples, and a little 
 pickled beetroot. Mix well, and season with 
 pepper and a small onion minced very fine. 
 Moisten the salad with oil, vinegar, and milk or 
 cream in equal parts. 
 
 SAXONY SAUCE (a German recipe). 
 
 Place a piece of butter in a casserole, together 
 with a table-spoonful of flour, to thicken, till 
 almost browned. Then add a sufficient quantity 
 of water in which fish was boiled, a shallot 
 minced, some pale vinegar, a little white wine, 
 and a ^ood tea-spoonful of mustard. Stir these 
 ingredients until the preparation boils well. 
 Before sending to table, add some very thin 
 slices of lemon ?.nd a piece of cold butter to 
 make the sauce oily. 
 
 SCAD. 
 
 This fish, sometimes called the horse-mackerel, 
 is common on the south-western shores of Eng- 
 land, but is comparatively rare in the North. 
 Sometimes it appears in immense shoals, pur- 
 suing the fry of herrings, or similar prey, and 
 the multitudes have sometimes been so numer- 
 ous and so crowded together that overloaded 
 nets have been torn in pieces : the fish might 
 have been lifted out of the sea in bucketfuls. 
 The flavour of the scad is not unlike that of the 
 mackerel. When fresh, it is not very palatable, 
 but it is often salted, and in that state is in de- 
 mand as an article of food. 
 
 SCALD CREAM. 
 
 Provincially, cream raised by heat, or clotted 
 cream. ~ 
 
 SCALLOPED FISH. 
 
 The remains of any description of cooked fish 
 and shell-fish may be served in this way : mac- 
 
 kerel and herrings are the least suitable for the 
 purpose. Take the skin and bone from the fish, 
 and tear the flesh into flakes. Mix with it a 
 1 third of its weight in finely-grated bread- 
 crumbs, or in well-masked potatoes, and season 
 the mixture rather highljr with salt, cayenne, 
 and grated nutmeg. Moisten slightly with the 
 remains of sauce served with the fish, or, lack- 
 ing this, with a little clarified butter. Butter 
 some scallop shells, or some small shallow 
 dishes, and line the inside with grated bread- 
 crumbs. Put in the mixture, cover the surface 
 with bread-crumbs, lay little pieces of butter 
 here and there on the top, and bake in a well- 
 heated oven or in a Dutch oven before the fire 
 until the surface is brightly browned; serve 
 very hot. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. 
 
 SCALLOPS. 
 
 The scallop is a shell-fish a little larger than 
 an oyster, and somewhat resembling it in 
 shape. It is something like a crab in taste. It 
 may be served in< two or three ways, and is 
 generally highly esteemed where it is known. 
 The scallop may enter appropriately into any 
 fish pie, though it should be boiled previously. 
 It is best when scalloped. The deep shells of 
 the scallop should be carefully preserved after 
 they are used, and will be useful when it is 
 wished to " scallop " the remains of dressed fish 
 of any kind. 
 
 SCALLOPS, FRIED. 
 
 Drain and dry one dozen scallops, trim away 
 the beards, roll them in flour, and fry them in a 
 little butter in a frying-pan, for about ten 
 minutes. Serve hot, garnished with parsley. 
 Probable cost. Is. per dozen. 
 
 SCALLOPS, SCALLOPED. 
 
 Procure the scallops when alive and as fresh 
 as possible. Open them, loosen them from the 
 shell, trim away the beards and the black por- 
 tion, leaving the yellow and white parts of the 
 fish. Wash them in two or three waters, and 
 drain them. Scour and rins'~ the deeper shells, 
 dry them, and butter thickly. Mince the scal- 
 lops, and mix with them a third of their bulk 
 in grated bread-crumbs, a liberal allowance of 
 pepper and salt, and a little chopped parsley. 
 A large table-spoonful of chopped parsley will 
 be sufficient for a dozen scallops. Sprinkle a 
 few bread-crumbs over the inside of the shell, 
 and shake off those that do not adhere. Put in 
 the minced fish, cover the surface with bread- 
 crumbs, and lay little pieces of butter here and 
 there on the top. Put the shells in a well- 
 heated oven or in a Dutch oven before a clear 
 fire, and let them remain until the contents are 
 heated throughout and brown on the surface. 
 Serve the scallops very hot in the shells on a 
 neatly-folded napkin. A little vinegar should 
 be sent to table with them, and four shells will 
 be required for every dozen scallops. The shells 
 should be carefully preserved, and may be used 
 again and again for scalloped fish of any kind. 
 Time to bake the scallops, naif an hour. Prob- 
 able cost, when plentiful. Is. per dozen. Suf- 
 ficient, one dozen for four persons. 
 SCALLOPS, STEWED. 
 
 Procure the scallops as fresh as possible. 
 Open the shell like an oyster, trim away the- 
 
«CH 
 
 789 
 
 SCO 
 
 teard and the black parts. Wash the scallops 
 in two or three waters, then put them into a 
 saucepan, pour over them as much water as will 
 cover them, and boil them gently till tender. 
 Take them up, thicken the liquor with flour and 
 butter, and season it with pepper, salt, and 
 vinegar: serve the fish on a hot dish with a 
 little of the sauce poured over. Time to boil, 
 one hour. Probable cost, when plentiful. Is. 
 per dozen. Sufficient, a dozen for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 SCHOOL CAKE. 
 
 Take four pounds of flour, twelve ounces of 
 clarified fat, twelve ounces of moist sugar, one 
 pound of good raisins, stoned and halved, one 
 ounce of yeast, a pint and a half of milk and 
 water in equal proportions, a tea-spoonful of 
 salt, the same of mixed spice, two beaten eggs, 
 and a, few ounces of candied peel. The yeast 
 and a portion of the liquid are to be mixed with 
 a little sugar, and put to the flour to form a 
 leaven as for bread. When risen the fat should 
 "be melted in the rest of the liquid, and added 
 with the eggs, etc., to the flour, and the whole 
 mixed and left to rise well; divide into two 
 cakes, and bake for about two and a half hours 
 in a moderate oven. Probable cost, 2s. 
 
 SCONES. 
 
 Put as much barley-meal as will be required 
 into a, bowl, add » pinch of salt, and stir in 
 cold water to make a stiff paste. Eoll this out 
 into round cakes a quarter of an inch thick, and 
 bake on a girdle. Split the cakes open, butter 
 them well, and serve hot. A little butter may 
 be rubbed into the meal if liked. Richer scones 
 may be made by dissolving an ounce of fresh 
 butter in a pint of hot milk, and stirring this 
 into as much flour as will make a stiff dough. 
 When it is not convenient to bake the scones 
 on a girdle, a thick frying-pan may be used 
 instead. Time to bake the scones, about four 
 niinutes. 
 
 SCONES, BARLEY-MEAL. 
 
 Mix well together two pounds of barley-meal, 
 a small tea-spoonful of baking-soda, three- 
 quarters of a tea-spoonful of cream of tartar, 
 and half a tea-spoonful of salt. Add enough 
 butter -milk to make a nice soft dough. 
 Sprinkle a little meal on the baking-board, and 
 roll out the dough to a quarter of an inch thick. 
 Cut into three, and bake on a moderately hot 
 girdle. Probable cost, 6d. 
 SCONES, INDIAN MEAL AND FLOUR. 
 
 Mix together one pound of Indian meal, one 
 pound of flour, one table-spoonful of treacle, 
 one tea-spoonful of baking-soda, the same of 
 cream of tartar, and half a tea^spoonful of salt. 
 Add enough butter-milk to make a nice soft 
 dough; divide it, and roll out each piece to 
 about a quarter of an inch thick. Cut each 
 piece into four, and bake on not too hot a girdle. 
 Probable cost, 6d. 
 SCONES, POTATO. 
 
 Take any boiled potatoes left over from 
 dinner, bruise them nice and smoothly, or rub 
 them through a sieve; add salt to season. 
 Shake some flour over them or work it in, roll 
 out very thin, prick with a fcrk, and cut into 
 three. 'Bake on a moderately hot girdle. 
 
 SCONES, RICE. 
 
 Put one pound of rice, one tea-spoonful of 
 sugar, and half a tea-spoonful of salt into a 
 saucepan with a quart of water, and Ipt it come 
 to the boil. Then set it at the side of the fire, 
 and let it steam for two hours with the lid 
 close, till all the water has been absorbed, and 
 the rice has become soft. Then sprinkle a.- 
 quarter of a pound of flour on the baking-board, 
 and turn the rice out on it. Let it stand till 
 cool ; then divide into six parts, and roll out 
 very thin. Cut each part into three, and bake 
 on not too hot a girdle. Probable cofit, 6d. 
 
 SCONES, SCALDED. 
 
 Mix together one pound of flour and half a 
 tea-spoonful of gait; add boiling water to make 
 a good firm dough. Divide it into portions, and 
 roll out very thin on the baking-board sprinkled 
 with flour. Cut each portion into three, and bake 
 on a moderately hot girdle. Probable cost, 2d. 
 SCONES, SODA. 
 
 Dissolve half a salt-spoonful of carbonate of 
 soda and five ounces of fresh butter or lard in 
 a quarter of a pint of warm water or milk : put 
 ten ounces of flour into a bowl, add a pinch of 
 salt, and stir in the liquor to make a stiff dough. 
 Roll this out into a round cake a quarter of 'an 
 inch thick, mark this into eight portions, and 
 bake on a girdle or in a thick frying-pan. Split 
 the scones, butter them well, aiid serve very hot. 
 Time to bake, fifteen to twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost, 6d. 
 SCONES, WHEATEN MEAL. 
 
 Mix together one pound of wheat-meal, one 
 pound of flour, a tea-spoonful of baking-soda, 
 the same of cream of tartar, a tea-spoonful of 
 dripping, and half a tea-spoonful of salt. Add 
 sufficient butter-milk to make a light dough; 
 divide it into small portions, roll out to the 
 thickness of a quarter of an inch, and bake on 
 a hot (but not too hot) girdle. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 SCORE, TO. 
 
 To score fish or vegetables is to make incisions 
 in them with a sharp knife, thus facilitating 
 the cooking. 
 SCORZONERA. 
 
 The roots of this plant are sugary and well 
 flavoured; they may.be boiled and served like 
 parsnips, or treated' like salsify. The coarse 
 outer rind must be scraped off, and the roots 
 soaked in cold water for a few hours to extract 
 the bitter flavour, 
 
 SCOTCH BROTH (Genuine Scotch Recipe). 
 
 Take about three pounds of fresh beef. The 
 shin or hock, or the thick flank, or any similar 
 piece, will answer excellently. Procure also a 
 tea-cupful of pearl barley, a cabbage, three 
 leeks, one large turnip, one large carrot, and a 
 quarter of a peck of peas, fresh or dried. When 
 there is any difficulty in procuring the peas, 
 they are frequently omitted. If dried peas are 
 used, they must be soaked overnight. Put the 
 barley into a stewpan with six quarts of cold 
 water. Whilst this is heating prepare the vege- 
 tables. Shred the cabbage finely and cut the 
 leeks and turnip into small dice, and throw them 
 into cold water till they are wanted. Before 
 using, drain them. Cleanse the carrot, then 
 
SCO 
 
 790 
 
 SCO 
 
 scrape or grate it to pulp; and do not put any 
 cold water upon it after it is grated, as that 
 would cause it to lose its flavour. When the 
 water boils, put into it all the vegetables, with 
 the beef and a, little pepper and salt, and sim- 
 mer the broth very gently till the beef is tender. 
 If the meat is done enough before it is needed, it 
 should be taken out for awhile and put back 
 in time to heat again. Particular care should 
 be taken to skim the broth carefully. Serve 
 the beef on a separate dish, and send the broth 
 with the vegetables and barley to table in a 
 tureen. Very good broth may be made with 
 mutton or lamb, as well as beef. It is excellent 
 the second day. Time to simmer the broth, 
 about four hours. Probable cost, 3s. 4d. Suf- 
 ficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 SCOTCH BROTH (M. Ude's recipe). 
 
 Take some of the worst cutlets of the neck, 
 trim them, but not too finely; put them by, 
 and with the trimmings make the soup ia the 
 following manner. Put into a stewpan the 
 mutton trimmings, some scrag trimmings, and 
 a knuckle of veal ; moisten these with good 
 boiling broth ; then season the broth with a 
 bunch of celery, leeks, parsley, one large onion 
 with two cloves, a few slices of turnip cut into 
 dice, and one or two carrots, also cut into dice. 
 Let this broth boil gently three hours ; season 
 it with salt, and skim off the fat. When it 
 becomes of a good flavour, drain it over the 
 chops, which you must put in a small stew- 
 pan, large enough, however, to contain the 
 soup. Have some barley that has been boiled 
 a long time ; wash it well, and put it with the 
 turnips and carrots and chops to boil one hour. 
 Skim again before sending to table. No bread 
 is used with this soup. Celery cut into dice 
 with the turnips gives additional flavour; you 
 can sometimes add, just as you serve up, a 
 little parsley, chopped very fine. 
 
 SCOTCH CAKE. 
 
 Beat three-quarters of a pound of butter to 
 cream, add a pound of powdered and sifted 
 sugar, one pound of dried flour, one table-spoon- 
 ful of powdered cinnamon, and a quarter of a 
 pint of milk. EoU out the dough to the thick- 
 ness of the third of an inch, cut it into cakes, 
 and bake these in a well-heated oven. When 
 the cakes are lightly and equally coloured they 
 are done enough. Time to bake, about half an 
 hour. Probable cost. Is. lOd. for this quantity. 
 
 SCOTCH DISHES. 
 
 Eecipes for the various national dishes of 
 Scotland will be found under their respective 
 headings. On page 789 and two succeeding 
 pages, however, we have given a few additional 
 examples of Caledonian cookery. 
 
 SCOTCH KALE. 
 
 Like all other greens, Scotch kale should be 
 procured as fresh as possible. Cut away the 
 outer and decayed leaves and the stalks, wash 
 the kale with scrupulous care, and drain it. 
 Put it into boiling water slightly salted, and 
 let it boil quickly until done enough. Take it 
 up, drain it thoroughly, and serve very ho|. 
 Whilst the kale is boiling, the saucepan should 
 be left uncovered. Time to boil, twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost, 2d. or 3d. per pound. 
 
 SCOTCH OATMEAL BROSE. 
 
 Brose is a Scotch food made from oatmeal, 
 and is perhaps the food most quickly cooked of 
 any used by civilised men. The process is as 
 follows. Put a handful of oatmeal into a good- 
 sized basin, add a large pinch of salt, pour about 
 a pint of boiling water over it, stir with the 
 handle of a spoon, when the meal will form 
 little lumps. Do not break the lumps, but pour 
 in half a innt of either sweet milk or butter- 
 milk, and the cooking will be complete. Eat 
 immediately after cooking. Some add a piece 
 of butter, but the brose is more wholesome with- 
 out it; indeed, all preparations of oatmeal are 
 more wholesome without the addition of any 
 fatty substance, the oatmeal having quite 
 enough of the heat-producing element in itself. 
 This is a common breakfast dish among Scotch 
 ploughmen in some districts. It cannot be re- 
 commended to sedentary persons. 
 
 SCOTCH OATMEAL CAKES. 
 
 For oaten cakes, take some meal, mix with 
 it a little salt and melted suet and sufiicient 
 water to work it into a thick dough, roll out 
 into a cake as thin as possible, divide into 
 quarters, alid spread out on the " girdle " (a 
 flat circular piece of iron about eighteen inches 
 in diameter, suspended over the fire), and bake 
 each side in turn. . The cakes must then be 
 toasted before the fire till they are curled and 
 crisp. They must be crisp and brittle to be 
 palatable. {See page 792 for illustration.) 
 
 SCOTCH OATMEAL CAKES (another way).. 
 
 Oat-cake, or bannocks, should be made from 
 meal as fine as can be got, and as newly ground 
 as possible. The meal should be saturated with 
 lukewarm water, and seasoned with as much salt 
 as can be lifted between the finger and thumb for 
 each cake ; stir about well, and squeeze through 
 the fingers, adding dry meal until the mass is 
 • of the consistency of dough (all this should be 
 done in a basin); then spread some dry meal 
 on the " bake-board," flatten the dough with 
 the knuckles of both hands until nearly the 
 size wanted ; smooth and finish with a rolling- 
 pin. Crimp with the thumb all round the 
 edge, but do not cut in any way. It is now 
 ready for the girdle. Now for the " firing," 
 which is of as much importance as the '' baking." 
 The fire must be clear, and free from smoke ; 
 as a precaution, throw some salt on. The girdle 
 should be of malleable iron, and a quarter of an 
 inch thick, with a bow handle. Heat till salt 
 crackles on it, brush it clean, and put on the 
 bannock. Move it about whilst on its flat, so 
 that it may be equally done. The cakes may 
 be done on the other side the same way; but 
 they are much better to have the other side 
 done before the fire on the toaster : this will 
 give them a beautiful curl, and make them nice 
 ahd crisp. Then you will have real Scotch oat- 
 meal bannocks. 
 
 SCOTCH OATMEAL CAKES (another way). 
 
 The following directions are given by one 
 writer as the result of some experience and 
 study. 1. — Let the oatmeal be of medium size 
 in the grain. If coarse oatmeal be used, the 
 cakes will not bear kneading out to the proper 
 thinness, but will break in pieces ; if the finest 
 
9CQ 
 
 791 
 
 SEA 
 
 be used, the cakes will be tough, not crisp, as 
 they ought to be. 2. — Use cold water only in 
 making the dough. If hot or lukewarm water 
 be used, the cakes will also be tough, and quite 
 wanting in the peculiar sweetness that oakes 
 made with cold water have. The use of fine 
 oatmeal and hot water certainly makes the 
 work easier to the person preparing the cakes, 
 and also produces a better-looking article, but 
 just as surely makes the cakes much less 
 pleasant to eat. 3. — Use no fat, nor carbonate 
 of soda, nor anything but oatmeal, cold water, 
 and just as much salt as is used in the making 
 of bread from flour. Fat and carbonate of 
 soda both cause the cakes to be shorter; but 
 both, especially the former, have a great 
 tendency to produce heartburn and other un- 
 desirable results in the eater. Cakes properly 
 made do not require any such devices to make 
 them very pleasant eating. 4. — Knead up the 
 dough as quickly as possible, and make no 
 more dough at a time than is enough for one 
 cake, which cut into three or four sections for 
 convenience of handling. If the dough is made 
 in a lump for a number of cakes, those that are 
 baked last will not be so crisp and sweet as the 
 first baked. The size of the cake will be 
 determined by the diameter of the hot-plate or 
 girdle on which it is to be baked, but cakes of 
 small diameter are more easily made by per- 
 sons unaccustomed to the work. 5. — Make the 
 cakes thin — as little over an eight of an inch 
 as possible. If rolled out thicker than that 
 they will not have the nice crispness that a 
 good oat-cake always has. 6. — ^Bake the one 
 side on the hot-plate over the fire just as much 
 as will serve to stiffen the cake sufficiently to 
 bear its own weight when set on edge in the 
 toaster before the fire. The more the baking 
 is done before the fire the better. Lastly, do 
 not eat them hot, and keep them, until used, in 
 a perfectly dry and, if possible, rather warm 
 place. 
 
 SCOTCH OATMEAL PORRIDGE. 
 
 Oatmeal porridge is made of oatmeal, water, 
 and salt only; no sweet milk, butter-milk, nor 
 butter being used in the preparation of the food, 
 although all of these articles may be used as 
 relishes with it. It is best made from meal of 
 medium coarseness. The water must be boiling 
 when the meal is stirred in, and it must be 
 stirred in carefully and gradually, and not 
 thrown, in all at once, and the stirring must be 
 continued during the time of boiling, which 
 should not be less than fifteen minutes,, and a 
 longer period is much better. If longer boiled, 
 the gram of the meal gets softer, and, of course, 
 the porridge gets thicker. Porridge is more 
 palatable when a plate or other fiat dish is used 
 for it than when it is put into » bowl or 
 basin. When a plate is used the moisture 
 evaporates more quickly and equably than it 
 does from a bowl, and the porridge can be 
 eaten sooner after cooking, and tlie sooner it is 
 eaten the pleasanter it tastes. 
 
 SCOTCH SOUP. 
 
 Take four pounds of the shin of beef or 
 knuckle of veal. Put it into a stewpan, pour 
 over it as much cold water as will cover it, add 
 four ounces of pearl barley, and let all simmer 
 
 gently together for an hour. Remove the scum 
 carefully as it rises, and when no more appears, 
 throw in a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, 
 a bay-leaf, half a dozen outer sticks of celery, 
 two onions, two large turnips cut into dice, and 
 a little pepper and salt. Add gradually another 
 quart of water, and simmer the soup again until 
 the vegetables are tender. Take up the meat, 
 and serve it on a separate dish. Serve the soup 
 without straining and as hot as possible. A 
 fowl is occasionally stewed in the soup, and 
 served with it. Time, about two and a half 
 hours. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for six 
 or eight persons. 
 
 SCRAP. 
 
 Scraps are the little pieces of leaf or flead left 
 undissolved when the inner fat of a pig is melted 
 down for lard. If carefully prepared, these 
 pieces may be used for making common cakes 
 for nursery use. The best way of melting the 
 fat is to cut it up and put it in a jar, and then 
 place the jar in a saucepan of boiling water, 
 which should be kept boiling until the fat is dis- 
 solved. In country places scraps are utilised by 
 economical housekeepers, and served with baked 
 potatoes and mustard sauce as a relish for break- 
 fast or supper. 
 
 SCRAP CAKES. 
 
 Take the scraps which remain after melting 
 down a pound of leaf or flead. Put these into 
 a bowl, slice them, and rub them into three- 
 quarters of a pound of flour. Add a pinch of 
 salt, four ounces of picked and dried currants, 
 two table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, half an 
 ounce of candied peel finely minced, and a little 
 grated nutmeg. Mix the ingredients thoroughly, 
 and moisten them with as much cold water as 
 will make a light paste. Roll this out, stamp 
 it into round cakes, and bake these in a quick 
 oven. A spoonful of baking-powder may be 
 added or not. Time to bake, about twenty 
 minutes. Cost, exclusive of the scraps, 6d. 
 
 SCREEN, BOTTLE-JACK AND. 
 
 {See Bottle-Jack and Scbeen.) 
 SCURVY GRASS. 
 
 This is found wild in some marshy districts 
 of our country, but probably it was first intro- 
 duced into our gardens from Holland, where it 
 grows very plentifully. The leaves of this plant 
 are exceedingly pungent, therefore the best way 
 of eating them is between bread and butter, as 
 by this means they are rendered less offensive 
 to the palate, and their whole virtues, which are 
 very considerable, are taken into the stomach. 
 
 SEA BASS. 
 
 Bass is a name given to several kinds of fish, 
 all of which are excellent for food. Sometimes 
 a kind of perch is thus named. In North 
 America the name denotes a striped fish of good 
 size, which often weighs as much as fifteen 
 pounds ; while the sea bass is a striped fish with 
 a large head, which grows to two or three pounds 
 weight, and which is never found in fresh water. 
 All these varieties taste well, and may either be 
 boiled or fried like other fish. 
 SEA BEET. 
 
 The sea beet is a plant growing on many parts 
 of our coasts. It belongs to the same natural 
 
SEA 
 
 792 
 
 SEA 
 
 family as the spinach, and is probably the 
 original form of the cultivated beet and man- 
 gold-wurzel. The leaves are large, and when 
 boiled resemble spinach in flavour. The plant 
 
 frows naturally on chalk, but is much improved 
 y being sown in garden-ground. If planted 
 in rich soil the leaves are finer, and the flavour 
 is scarcely distinguishable from that of spinach. 
 A regular supply can also be obtained until late 
 in the season by gathering the leaves in suc- 
 cession as they grow. In many parts of dreland 
 they are collected by the poor, and eaten as food. 
 
 SEA BREAM. 
 
 This fish, which g^rows to- the length of six- 
 teen to twenty inches, though handsome in 
 appearance, is not very higUy esteemed. It 
 is best when boiled. (iS'ee Bbeam.) 
 
 SEA CAKE. 
 
 This cake is so called because it possesses 
 the advantage of keeping well for a long 
 period, even when cut. Take a quarter of a 
 pound of fresh butter, a quarter of a pound of 
 salt butter, half a pound of castor sugar, three- 
 quarters of a, pound of sifted flour, six eggs, 
 three-quarters of a pound of currants, a quarter 
 of a pound of sultanas, a quarter of a pound of 
 almonds blanched and cut small, half a pound 
 of orange peel, a quarter of a pound of citron 
 cut small, one salt-spoonful of mixed spice, and 
 the same quantity of ground cloves. Beat the 
 butter and sugar to a cream, add the eggs two 
 at a time, beating the mixture for five minutes 
 between the, two. Add the flour gradually, and 
 beat well. Mix the fruit and spice together 
 with a little flour, then mix all together. Stir 
 well, pour into a cake tin lined with buttered 
 paper, and bake in a moderate oven for two 
 hours and a half. Cost, about Is. 6d. to 2s. 
 
 SEA HOLLY. , 
 
 This is a plant found upon the sea coasts of 
 many parts of England. It is a perennial, with 
 a long, tough, creeping root, which sends forth 
 several roundish, bluish, prickly leaves, stand- 
 ing on long footstalks, and mostly lodged on 
 the ground. The roots have a pleasant, sweetish 
 taste, mixed with a slight degree of warmth 
 and acrimony. They are candied and eaten for 
 disorders of the lungs. 
 
 SEA KALE. 
 
 Sea kale is a plant somewhat resembling as- 
 paragus, and it is thus named because it is 
 found in its wild state in districts near the sea. 
 It varies in price, according as it is plentiful 
 or otherwise. It is very wholesome, and easily 
 digested, and is generally highly esteemed : 
 notwithstanding this, its introduction to public 
 notice was a matter of difficulty. Its cultivation 
 — and that very iiestricted and local — dates 
 from little more than a hundred years ago, 
 though from time immemorial the inhabitants 
 of various parts of the coast have been in the 
 habit of searching for it when blanched by the 
 drifted sand, and cutting off the white shoots 
 close to the crown of the plant. It is the 
 blanching process which makes sea kale so 
 delicate. Unblanched it is worthless. Persons 
 ignorant of the proper mode of blanching by 
 earthing up the plants and covering them with 
 
 pots, when they came into possession of gardens 
 where it had been planted, have been known to 
 loot it up and throw it away, because they 
 tasted only its full-grown leaves, and found 
 them unpalatable. It is the action of light 
 which imparts its strong and bitter taste to sea 
 kale, as well as its glaucous-green and reddish- 
 purple colouring. Consequently, sea kale after 
 it is cut should be kept in a dark place till 
 wanted. If exposed in an open situation, it 
 will in two or three days acquire a decided tinge, 
 which injures both its appearance and flavour. 
 Sea kale is amongst the earliest of vegetables. 
 It may frequently be procured in January, and 
 is in full season from February to June. 
 (See also Eale, Sea.) 
 
 SEA KALE, BOILED. 
 
 When fresh and delicately cooked, sea kale 
 resembles and will serve as a substitute for as- 
 paragus. Carefully wash and brush the sea 
 kale to remove the sand and grit, cut out the 
 black part of the roots, and tie the shoots in 
 small bundles. Throw these into plenty of boil- 
 ing water slightly salted, and keep them boiling 
 
 SCOTCH OATMEAL CAKES (see page 790). 
 
 quickly until tender. Take them up, drain 
 them, untie the bunches, and serve the \ale on 
 toast, with all the heads in one direction, and 
 with plain melted butter or white sauce poured 
 over it, or, if preferred, without the toast, and 
 dry. 
 
 If required to be served on toast, the 
 latter may be soaked in the water in which the 
 kale was cooked, that is provided the liquor 
 remains colourless; otherwise it will impart a 
 bitter taste to the toast. 
 
 .\s regards time to cook, the better the 
 kale is, the quicker it will be done; if young 
 and fresh, it will be done enough in from twenty 
 to thirty minutes; if stale and discoloured, it 
 will need from forty to fifty minutes. If there 
 is any suspicion that the kale is stale, the water 
 should be poured off when it is half done, and 
 fresh water substituted. 
 
 Probable cost when plentiful, lOd. to Is. per 
 basket. 
 
 Sufficient, twelve heads for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 SEA KALE, CHOOSING OF. 
 
 Sea kale should be cooked as soon as possible 
 after it is cut. When fresh, it is white in colour 
 
SEA 
 
 793 
 
 SEA 
 
 and crisp. If it has acquired a dark tinge, and 
 is limp to the touch, it is stale and compara- 
 tively worthless. After it is purchased it should 
 be kept covered up, and in a dark place, till 
 wanted. 
 
 SEA KALE, STEWED. 
 
 Wash the sea kale, and tie it in bundles. 
 Boil it in salted water for a quarter of an hour, 
 then drain it, and put it into a saucepan with 
 as much brown gravy as will cover it. Stew 
 gently till tender. Lay it in a hot dish, stir a 
 little lemou-juioe into the sauce, and pour it 
 over. White sauce or poivrade sauce may, if 
 preferred, be served with sea kale instead of 
 brown sauce. Time to boil, twenty minutes or 
 more, according to condition. Probable cost, 
 sea kale when plentiful, lOd. to Is. per basket. 
 SEA PEA. 
 
 The sea pea grows wild upon our sea coasts, 
 where its roots penetrate to u, considerable 
 depth, and also spread in various directions for 
 several feet just under the surface. The peas 
 have a bitterish, disagreeable taste, and there- 
 fore, whilst more pleasant food is to be obtained, 
 these are rejected ; but in times of scarcity they 
 have been the means of preserving thousands of 
 families from perishing, the unpleasant flavour 
 at such times weighing little against the de- 
 mands of a keen appetite. Both Howe and 
 Camden relate that in the year 1555, being a 
 year of great dearth, the people collected large 
 quantities of these peas in Suffolk, upon a barren 
 path, where even grass would not.grow; and as 
 they never had observed any such plant as this 
 there in the time of their fulness, when the eye 
 is careless, they attributed their springing up 
 then to miraculous agency — a miracle to keep 
 the poor from starving — though in all proba- 
 bility they had been growing in the same 
 locality for centuries. 
 SEA PHEASANT. 
 
 (Sea Pintail, on Sba Pheasant.) 
 
 SEA PIE. 
 
 A sea pie is, strictly speaking, a pie made of 
 scraps; and thus made, it answers sufficiently 
 well for an economical family dinner; never- 
 theless, it is much better when made with fresh 
 meat. Take as much cooked meat as will be 
 required, or for a superior pie take a blanched 
 and jointed chicken and a few slices of salt beef. 
 Make pastry in the proportion of half a pound 
 of butter, or dripping, or shredded suet, to one 
 of flour. Line a buttered pudding-dish with 
 pastry; put in a layer of meat seasoned with 
 pepper and finely-shredded onion, then a layer 
 of pastry, and fill the dish with alternate layers 
 of meat and pastry. Pour stock or cold water 
 into the dish, cover closely, and bake, stew, or 
 steam the pie gently until done enough. Turn 
 it out carefully, ^nd serve very hot. This pie 
 will burn quickly if neglected. Time, a 
 moderate-sized pie, three to four hours. Suf- 
 flcient for six or eight persons. 
 
 SEA PIE (another way). 
 
 Take some uncooked meat cut into slices, and 
 put it in a saucepan; peel some onions and 
 swedes (or turnips, if preferred to swedes), cut 
 them into slices, and put them in with the meat, 
 and sufficient water barely to cover the whole. 
 
 then season pleasantly with salt and pepper. 
 Potatoes may also be added. Stew gently till 
 the crust is ready. Make a stiff paste of suet 
 or dripping; roll it to the size of the saucepan. 
 Lay it on the meat, put the lid on the pan, 
 and simmer gently for an hour and a half. Serve 
 meat and vegetables on a dish, lay the crust on 
 them, and pour the gravy over all. 
 
 SEA STEW. 
 
 Peel and slice a large onion, brown it in a bit 
 of hot dripping. Cut one pound of buttock steak 
 into squares, and brown these also. Sprinkle 
 the steak and onion with flour, pour in half a 
 pint of stock, and boil up; skim well. Make a 
 dozen small dumplings by any of the recipes 
 given (see Dumplings, Plain, also Savouby 
 Dumplings). While the meat is cooking, par- 
 boil a pound of potatoes, slice them, and add 
 to the steak. Stew the meat until done, which 
 will take about two hours. The dumplings 
 should be steamed separately, and put round a 
 hot dish, with the meat, etc., in the centre. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 SEASONING. 
 
 The art of seasoning dishes can only be ac- 
 quired by experience. Accurate directions can- 
 not possibly be given, becauss tastes differ so 
 widely, and that which is agreeable to one may 
 be insipid to another, and too highly seasoned 
 for a third. A cook should endeavour to ascer- 
 tain the tastes of those she serves, and should 
 adapt the seasoning to meet their requirements. 
 She should add the seasoning in small quanti- 
 ties, as she can easily put in more if needed, but 
 cannot remove what is already there. 
 
 All solid ingredients — as herbs, spices, and 
 vegetables — need the action of heat to bring 
 out their flavour. Liquid flavourings, on the 
 contrary — such as wines, essences, and vinegars 
 — diffuse themselves quickly through any pre- 
 paration into which they are introduced, and, 
 more than this, are frequently lost through 
 being added at too early a period. It is well, 
 therefore, not to put them in till the dish is 
 about to be served. 
 
 The cook will find it to her advantage to 
 have already prepared an aromatic seasoning of 
 herbs and spices. This should be kept in a 
 closely-stoppered bottle, and after a little has 
 been used, it should be closely stoppered again 
 (see Herbs and Spices, Abomatic, Seasoning op 
 and Hebbs, Aromatic, Powdered). A good 
 deal of judgment is needed in using salt and 
 pepper. Judiciously used, salt helps to bring 
 out other flavours, and there is scarcely any 
 mixture, sweet or savoury, which will not be 
 improved by the addition of a little salt. Ex- 
 travagantly used it will overpower every other 
 flavour, and entirely spoil a dish. A soup or 
 stew should be slightly salted at first. It should 
 be salted to a certain extent to remove a raw 
 taste which would otherwise be found ; and it 
 should not be sufficiently salted, because as the 
 liqiior boils away the salt flavour will increase. 
 
 Generally speaking, it will be conceded that 
 herbs impart a more delicate flavour than spices, 
 and also that old vegetables impart a stronger 
 flavour than young ones. Whatever flavourings 
 are used, they should not be permitted to over- 
 ■ power the taste of the article which forms the 
 
SEA 
 
 794 
 
 SED 
 
 basis of a dish. Ketchups and store sauces 
 should be sparingly administered, as also should 
 be cayenne pepper, garlic, and all articles which 
 possess a decided and peculiar zest. 
 
 All those who have any experience in cookery 
 know very well that the success of a dish de- 
 pends to a great extent upon the seasoning. 
 Any person, therefore, who desires to excel in 
 the art should bring to the study of it ob- 
 servation, thought, intelligence, judgment, and 
 care, a keen palate, and a steady hand, for 
 these qualifications are all necessary to one who 
 desires in preparing food to make it not only 
 wholesome and nourishing, but palatable and 
 pleasant, and perfect of its kind. 
 
 SEASONING FOR FORCEMEAT AND GAME AND 
 MEAT PIES. 
 
 Take two ounces of dried thyme, an ounce of 
 marjoram, an ounce of rosemary, and two 
 ounces of bay-leaves. Pound these in a mortar, 
 and pass the powder through a hair sieve. 
 Pound separately two ounces of cloves, two 
 ounces of black pepper, and one ounce of 
 cayenne, mix these with the powdered herbs, 
 and add four ounces of grated nutmeg. Weigh 
 the powder, and add to it four times its weight 
 in dried salt. Put it into small bottles, cork 
 these securely, and put them in a dry place 
 till wanted. When mixed with salt in this pro- 
 portion, one ounce of seasoning will flavour 
 three pounds of forcemeat. 
 
 SEASONINGS, EVERY-DAY. 
 
 The ingredients used for these seasonings 
 should be powdered separately, then mixed to- 
 gether, preserved in dry bottles well stoppered, 
 and stored in a cool dry place. They may be 
 prepared during an hour of leisure, and will be 
 found most convenient for flavouring purposes. 
 No. 1. Mixed Spice for flavouring Soups and 
 Gravies. — Take two pounds of black pepper, 
 one pound of ginger, half a pound of grated 
 nutmeg, half a pound of allspice, half a pound 
 of cinnamon, one ounce of cloves, and three 
 pounds of dry salt. No. 2. Seasoning of Herbs 
 for Soup, etc. — Two ounces of thyme, two ounces 
 of sweet marjoram, two ounces of parsley, two 
 ounces of winter savory, one ounce of sweet 
 basil, and one ounce* of thin lemon-rind. No. 3. 
 Spice for Eagoiits. — Half a pound of mustard, 
 half a pound of black pepper, half a pound of 
 grated lemon-rind, two ounces of cayenne, one 
 ounce of ginger, one ounce of allspice, half an 
 ounce of grated nutmeg, and one pound of dry 
 salt. No. 4. Sweet Spice for flavouring Pastry. 
 — Two ounces of cloves, two ounces of cinnamon, 
 two ounces of mace, two ounces of nutmeg, and 
 two ounces of sugar. No. 5. — Mixed Spice for 
 flavouring Sausages. — Five pounds of black 
 pepper, two pounds and a half of ginger, one 
 pound of nutmegs, one pound of cloves, half a 
 pound of aniseed, and half a pound of coriander- 
 seeds. 
 SEAWEEDS USED AS ARTICLES OF DIET. 
 
 Amongst seaweeds which have been used as 
 articles of diet none is better known than the 
 Ohrondrus crispus, which, under the name of 
 carrageen moss, Irish moss, and pearl moss, has 
 been long eaten in Europe. It is recommended 
 as a medicine, but it has no bitter principle, and 
 probably is less tonic than the lichen. Sea- 
 
 weeds have occasionally been resorted to by the 
 poorer inhabitants of the seashores of Europe, 
 more especially in Ireland, when the ordinary 
 corn or potato crop has failed. They, however, 
 contain but little nutriment, and anyone living 
 on nothing else would soon starve. Laver-weed 
 is a peculiar kind of seaweed. Gosse, in his 
 handbook to South Wales, describes it as one 
 of the edible curiosities of the Gower Coast. 
 Women attend the Swansea market, and sell it 
 in small round pats at Id. and 2d. each. The 
 weed makes an excellent ingredient in sauce 
 for mutton. It is obtained close to low-water 
 mark. To prepare it, wash it well in sea-water 
 to free it from sand, then boil it for twelve 
 hours, and season with salt. In winter it is 
 only necessary to boil it for two hours. The 
 weed grows rapidly, except in winter, and is re- 
 newed every other springtide. It is also used in 
 some parts of Scotland on the coast, where it is 
 called sloke or slokum. 
 
 SEDENTARY, DIET FOR THE. 
 
 The following observations on this subject are 
 drawn from the valuable French work by Tissot 
 on " The Health of Men of Letters." Daily ob- 
 servation proves the force of the mind's action 
 on the stomach; and this every man has an 
 opportunity of experiencing in himself ; for the 
 more intensely any man thinks, and the more 
 strongly he excites the reflecting powers of his 
 mind, the more slowly and with the greater 
 diiiiculty does he digest what he eats; and, on 
 the other hand, the freer a man's mind is from 
 reflection, the more readily and the better he 
 digests. The diet of those of studious and 
 sedentary habits is therefore a subject of the 
 utmost importance. To enumerate all the 
 various aliments which should be chosen and all 
 those that should be avoided would be tedious, 
 but we may mention the principal. All fat 
 viscid aliments and all aliments hardened either 
 by nature or art are hurtful. The ancients con- 
 demned all sorts of pulse, and Pythagorus 
 strictly forbade his disciples to eat beans, as 
 these produce extraordinary flatulency, highly 
 destructive to the tranquillity of mind necessary 
 to the investigation of truth. The tender flesh 
 of all young animals is of great service — except 
 that of swine and geese — not when boiled m 
 copious broth, for then they are deprived of 
 their nutritious juices, but when roasted or 
 boiled in a small quantity of water. Such roots 
 are wholesome as consist of a light flour, not 
 without a mixture of salt or sugar; and the 
 same is to be said of soft herbs which arc neither 
 too acid nor too emollient. Nor should the 
 several sorts of seeds be neglected; nor ripe 
 fruits, concerning the use of which a caution 
 should be observed; for they relax, dissolve, 
 cause acidity, and thereby are the less fit 
 for the sedentary. But it is to be observed 
 that amongst the most severe disorders of the 
 studious and sedentary are reckoned the stag- 
 nation, the thickening, and the hardening of 
 the bile, which' defects are best remedied by 
 fruits that swell with saponaceous juices, as 
 strawberries^ raspberries, gooseberries, peaches, 
 grapes, pears, and other fruits of the like 
 nature, which studious, sedentary men cannot 
 well do without, especially in summer. Care 
 should be taken to prevent their being detri- 
 
SEE 
 
 795 
 
 SEE 
 
 mental by eating them when the stomach is 
 empty, either with or without bread, and long 
 before and long after having drunk wine ; for 
 thus they neither disturb the digestion of the 
 other aliments, nor, being hardened with wine, 
 prove more difficult of digestion themselves. 
 Eggs properly boiled are very good. Well- 
 baked bread and preparations of bread are also 
 of service. Milk is wholesome provided it does 
 not grow acid on the stomach. Chocolate de- 
 serves to be recommended, for it soon repairs 
 and restores the strength; it should not, how- 
 ever, be used to excess. Various dishes which 
 may be made out of the aliments already men- 
 tioned by judicious and prudent mixture are 
 very wholesome, but it is better to use only 
 simple food either raw or boiled. Selaxed 
 fibres sometimes require a gentle stimulus, 
 therefore a mild seasoning is not to be disap- 
 proved of, as salt, sugar, cinnamon, nutmegs, 
 and such agreeable aromatics as are generally 
 cultivated — thyme and sweet marjoram, for 
 example; but those are to be avoided which 
 stimulate with a sharp salt or oil that nature 
 can scarcely overcome. There are other helps to 
 digestion, and the chief of these is exact mas- 
 tication, which greatly forwards the work of 
 the stomach-; this is highly recommended by 
 physicians, but slighted by others, very foolishly, 
 and greatly to their own prejudice. Digestion 
 is performed slowly by the studious and the 
 sedentary, therefore fresh aliments should sel- 
 dom be given them. To make three meals a 
 day, one somewhat considerable, and the other 
 two rather slight, will be sufficient. The 
 example of Julius Csesar, who was very mode- 
 rate in eating, is very properly proposed to the 
 learned, as is likewise that of the illustrious 
 Cornaro, who restored his ruined health by a 
 regular diet alone; and eating but the fourth 
 part of the quantity of victuals eaten by his 
 fellow-citizens, lived to an advanced age, vigo- 
 rous and cheerful. A regular diet is capable 
 of effecting everything; studious men, how- 
 ever, whilst they take care of their health, 
 ought not to forget that a man who is well 
 should not so confine himself to rules as not to 
 break through them when he thinks proper; 
 for a constant habit is real slavery ; and many 
 learned and studious men have been known 
 who were so scrupulous with regard to their 
 hours of eating and going to bed, that their 
 minds seemed to be chained to their bodies, 
 which is the most shameful sort of servitude. 
 SEED BISCUITS. 
 
 No. 1. — Beat four ounces of fresh butter to 
 cream, add a pinch of salt, four ounces of pow- 
 dered and sifted loaf sugar, one pound of flour, 
 and a tea-spoonful of caraway-seeds. Mix the 
 dry ingredients thoroughly, and stir into them 
 three well-beaten eggs. Roll out the pastry, 
 cut it into fancy biscuits of any shape, prick 
 these with a fork, and bake in a well-heated 
 oven. If liked, one egg, a little milk, and a 
 tea-spoonful of baking-powder may be used. 
 No. 2. — Rub half a pound of butter into a 
 pound of flour, add two table-spoonfuls of sugar, 
 a tea-spoonful of caraway-seeds, and a dessert- 
 spoonful of saleratus dissolved in a little milk. 
 Knead the dough till it forms a light smooth 
 paste, roll it out, stamp it into shapes, and bake 
 
 in a well-heated oven. No. 3. — Rub one pound 
 of butter into three pounds of flour, add a pinch 
 of salt, an ounce of caraway-seeds, and three- 
 quarters of a pound of powdered sugar. Mix 
 , the dry ingredients thoroughly, work into them 
 three-quarters of a pint of boiling milk, and 
 knead the dough till it is smooth. ■ Roll it out, 
 cut it into rounds or squares, prick with a 
 fork, and bake in a gentle oven. Time to bake, 
 ten to fifteen minutes. 
 
 SEED BUNS. 
 
 Put four pounds of dried and sifted flour into 
 a bowl, and mix with it a pinch of salt and one 
 pound of Demerara sugar. Make a hollow in 
 the centre, and pour into this a quarter of a 
 pint of good yeast beaten up with a pint of 
 lukewarm milk, and as much flour as will make 
 a light batter. Cover the bowl, and leave it in 
 a warm place for two hours. At the end of that 
 time knead the contents well, and work in a 
 pound of butter dissolved till it will run, but 
 not hot, and as much warm milk as will make a 
 soft dough. Cover the bowl again, and let the 
 dough rise for an hour, when it will be ready 
 for making up into buns. It is a good plan to 
 divide it, and make one portion into plain buns, 
 another into currant buns, and a third into seed 
 buns. For seed buns, take a pound of the plain 
 dough, work into it half an ounce of caraway- 
 seeds, and form it into little balls. Put these 
 into buttered patty-pans, and let them rise be- 
 fore the fire for a few minutes. Brush them over 
 with white of egg or with milk, and sprinkle a 
 little powdered sugar over the top. Bake in a 
 well-heated oven. Time to bake, ten to fifteen 
 minutes. Probable cost. Id. each. 
 
 SEED CAKE, FAMILY, MADE FROM DOUGH. 
 
 No. 1. — ^Take a quartern of dough left from 
 making bread. Set it in a basin, covered with 
 a cloth, before the fire to rise. Beat half, a 
 pound of butter or dripping to cream ; work this 
 into the dough, and add three-quarters of a 
 pound of moist sugar, an ounce of caraway- 
 seeds, and a well-beaten egg. Knead the dough 
 well ; put it into one large or two moderate- 
 sized buttered baking-tins, let it stand before 
 the fii:e to rise, and bake in a well-heated oven. 
 Time, about two hours for one cake. Prob- 
 able cost, if made with dripping, about 4d. 
 per pound. No. 2. — Take a quartern of 
 dough. Spread it out on a pastry-board, 
 and slice half a pound of lard, butter, or drip- 
 ping over it. Sprinkle on it a heaped tea-spoon- 
 ful of baking-powder, add eight ounces of moist 
 sugar, two ounces of caraway-seeds, and two 
 ounces of finely-shredded candied peel. Knead 
 the dough till the ingredients are thoroughly 
 blended. Set it before the fire to rise for a 
 short time, put it into greased tins, and bake in 
 a well-heated oven. Time to bake, one to two 
 hours, according to the size of the cakes. No. 3. 
 — Take a quartern of dough. Spread it on a 
 floured pastry-board, slice half a pound of fresh 
 butter upon it, and work this in, together with 
 a tea-spoonful of salt, half an ounce of caraway- 
 ■seeds, half a _pound of good moist sugar, and 
 six eggs put in singly. When the ingredients 
 are thoroughly blended, put the dough into two 
 or more well-buttered tins, and place them be- 
 fore the fire for a short time. When the dough 
 
SEE 
 
 796 
 
 SEE 
 
 is light, put tHe cakes in a well-heated oven, 
 and oake until they are done enough. No. 4. — 
 Put two pounds of flour into a bowl, and mix 
 with it half a tea-spoonful of salt, eight ounces 
 of powdered sugar, two table-spoonfuls of cara- 
 way-seeds, and a quarter of a pint of fresh yeast. 
 Knead the dough thoroughly, and work into it 
 half a pound of butter which has been dissolved in 
 half a pint of milk. Throw a cloth over the bowl, 
 and set it in a warm place to rise. Put it into 
 a buttered mould, and bake in a well-heated 
 oven. Spices may be added to these cakes, if 
 liked. Time to bake, about one hour. 
 
 SEED CAKE, RICH. 
 
 Take a pound and a quarter of flour, well 
 dried, one pound of. butter, one pound of 
 pounded and sifted loaf sugar, eight eggs, and 
 two ounces of caraway-seeds, one grated nut- 
 meg, and its weight in cinnamon. Beat the 
 butter to a cream, put in the sugar, beat the 
 whites of the eggs and the yolks separately, then 
 mix them with the butter and sugar. Beat in 
 the flour, spice, and seed, a short time before 
 placing it in the oven. Bake in a quick oven. 
 Time, two hours to bake. 
 
 SEED CAKES, CHEAP. 
 
 No, 1. — Rub six ounces of sweet dripping into 
 a pound of flour, add a pinch of salt, a tea- 
 spoonful of mixed spice, a table-spoonful of 
 caraway-seeds, and six ounces of sugar. Mix 
 the dry ingredients thoroughly. Put a tea- 
 spoonful of carbonate of soda into half a pint 
 of milk, and set it in the oven till the soda is 
 dissolved. Let the milk cool a little, and when 
 it is lukewarm add a tea-spoonful of vinegar, 
 and stir it into the cake. Beat the cake well, 
 -put it into a buttered hoop, and bake in a 
 moderately-heated oven. Time to bake, one 
 hour. Probable cost, 4d. per pound. Sufficient 
 for a moderate-sized cake. No. 2. — Rub a quar- 
 ter of a pound of butter into three pounds of 
 flour ; add half a tea-spoonful of salt, three 
 heaped tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder, two tea- 
 spoonfuls of mixed spice, two ounces of cara- 
 way-seeds, a pinch of powdered mace or grated 
 nutmeg, eight ounces of sugar, and two ounces 
 of candied peel chopped small. Mix the dry 
 ingredients thoroughly. Beat them to a paste 
 with a pint of milk, and bake in a well-heated 
 oven. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour 
 to one hour. Probable cost, 5d. per pound. 
 Sufficient for two moderate-sized cakes. No. 3. 
 — Rub six ounces of butter into a pound of 
 flour, add a pinch of salt, six ounces of moist 
 sugar, and two table - spoonfuls of caraway- 
 seeds. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. 
 Dissolve a small dessert-spoonful of carbonate 
 of soda in a table-spoonful of milk. Add this 
 to as much milk as will make up half a pint 
 altogether, stir the milk to two well - beaten 
 eggs, and afterwards beat the whole into the 
 cake. Put the mixture into a buttered tin, 
 and bake in a moderately - heated oven. A 
 little spice and candied peel can be added, if 
 approved. Time to bake, one hour. Probable 
 cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for a moderate- 
 sized cake. No. 4. — Rub six ounces of butter 
 into three-quarters of a pound of flour, add a 
 pinch of salt, five ounces of the best moist 
 BUgar, and a dessert-spoonful of caraway-seeds. 
 
 Dissolve half a small tea-spoonful of soda in a 
 tea-spoonful of hot milk. Beat this up with 
 two eggs already well whisked, and stir the 
 whole into the cake. Put the mixture into a 
 buttered tin, and bake in a moderately-heated 
 oven till the cake is done. Time to bake, from 
 thirty to forty minutes. Probable cost, 9d. per 
 pound. ' 
 SEED CAKES, SUPERIOR. 
 
 No. 1. — Beat half a pound of butter to 
 cream. Work into it half a pound of powdered 
 and sifted sugar, a pinch of salt, and, gradually, 
 the well-beaten yolks of six eggs with the whites 
 of four whisked till firm. Add three-quarters of 
 a pound of dried and sifted flour, one ounce of 
 caraway-seeds, and half a grated nutmeg. Put 
 the mixture into a tin lined with buttered 
 paper, and bake in a well-heated oven. Time 
 to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. Suf- 
 ficient for a moderate-sized cake. No. 2. — Beat 
 half a pound of butter to cream. Shake half a 
 pound of flour into it, and add a pinch of salt, 
 six ounces of powdered sugar, half a grated 
 nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of caraway-seeds. 
 Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. Whisk 
 three eggs with a table - spoonful of brandy, 
 and with this work the mixture to a smooth 
 paste. Pour it into a well-buttered tin, and 
 bake in a well-heated oven. Time to bake, one 
 hour or more. No. 3. — Rub six ounces of butter 
 to cream; add six ounces of good moist sugar, 
 three-quarters of a pound of flour, a pinch 
 of salt, and a small tea-spoonful of caraway- 
 seeds. Mix tlie dry ingredients thoroughly, 
 and add three woll-beaten eggs and as much 
 milk as will make the nuxture soft and 
 smooth. Put it into a tin lined with buttered 
 paper, and bake in a moderately-heated oven. 
 Time to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. 
 No. 4. — Beat three-quarters of a pound of butter 
 to cream ; add an equal weight of powdered and 
 sifted sugar, and, very gradually, eight eggs, 
 the whites and yolks having been whisked 
 seperately. Dredge in slowly three-quarters of 
 a pound of dried flour, beat the mixture well, 
 and work into it ten ounces of mixed candied 
 peel finely shredded, two ounces of blanched 
 sweet almonds chopped small, two table-spoon- 
 fuls of brandy, and two table-spoonfuls of rose- 
 water. Line a baking-tin with buttered paper, 
 and three-parts fill it with the mixture. Smooth 
 the surface with a knife, and sprinkle comfits 
 over the top. Bake in a moderately - heated 
 oven. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour 
 to one hour. Probable cost, 38. No. 5. — Beat 
 half a pound of fresh butter to cream, and mix 
 with it very gradually a quarter of a pint of 
 orange-flower or rose-water. Add a pound of 
 powdered sugar, twelve ounces of dried floxir, 
 three ounces of ground rioe, two ounces of sweet 
 almonds, and two ounces of blanched and 
 pounded bitter almonds, an ounce of caraway- 
 seeds, and nine well-beaten eggs. The ingre- 
 dients should be added slowly, and the mixture 
 " beaten between every addition. Line a but- 
 tered cake-tin with oiled or buttered paper, 
 three-parts fill it with the mixture, and then 
 bake in a well-heated oven. Time to bake, 
 about an hour and a half. Probable cost of 
 these cakes, from lOd. to Is. 6d. per pound, 
 according to the particular recipe followed. 
 
SEE 
 
 797 
 
 SEV 
 
 SEED ROLLS. 
 
 Blend one ounce and a half of dried yeast 
 with four ounces of castor sugar, add a gill of 
 tepid water and the same of milk, and mix well- 
 Put one pound and a half of flour in a bowl, 
 rub three ounces of butter in, add a tea-spoonful 
 of caraway-seeds, a grating of nutmeg or lemon- 
 peel, and two beaten eggs. Pour the yeast in, 
 and work the whole to a dough with the hand ; 
 it should be stiff enough to mould into little 
 rolls without sticking to the hands. Lay them 
 close together on a floured or greased tin ; cover 
 with a cloth, and set them in a warm place for 
 an hour. Bake in a hot oven. Probable cost. Is. 
 SEIDLITZ WATER, BOTTLED. 
 
 Take a sufficient number of soda-water bottles, 
 and fill them with clear water; then add the 
 following ingredients, and cork and wire the 
 bottles immediately. Two drachms of Eochelle 
 salts, thirty-five grains of bicarbonate of soda, 
 and eleven drops of sulphuric acid. 
 SEMOLINA. 
 
 Semolina, or Semoule, or Soujee, is simply a 
 nourishing and wholesome preparation of wheat- 
 flour. It may be made into puddings or used 
 for thickening soups, and is specially suitable 
 for the use of children and sick people. It may 
 be purchased of grocers or Italian warehouse- 
 men. 
 SEMOLINA CUP-PUDDINGS. 
 
 Put three ounces of semolina into a bowl, and 
 pour over it as much milk as will cover it. Let 
 it soak for half an hour, drain it, and put it 
 into a saucepan with a pint and a half of boil- 
 ing milk, three table-spoonfuls of powdered 
 sugar, a slice of fresh butter, and a salt-spoon- 
 ful of grated lemon-rind. Stir it over the fire 
 'Without ceasing for about a quarter of an hour. 
 Pour it out, let it cool a little, and beat briskly 
 into it four well-whisked eggs. Pour the mix- 
 ture into buttered cups, and bake in a moderate 
 oven. Turn the puddings upon a dish, and 
 pour sweet sauce round them before serving. 
 Time to bake, ten minutes. Probable cost. 
 Is. 3d. (/See page 798 for illustration.) 
 
 SEMOLINA PUDDING. , 
 
 Take a pint and a half of milk, when boil- 
 ing drop into it three table-spoonfuls of semo- 
 lina, and stir all together for about fifteen 
 minutes ; throw in two ounces of butter, and 
 three ounces and a half of sifted sugar, with 
 the grated rind of a lemon. Whilst the semo- 
 lina still remains hot, beat gradually and briskly 
 into it four eggs. Bake in a moderate oven. 
 Time to bake, half an hour. 
 
 SEMOLINA PUDDING, BAKED. 
 
 Flavour a pint and a half of milk with al- 
 monds or lemon-rind. Put it into a saucepan, 
 let it boil up, and drop into it, when boiling, 
 three table-spoonfuls of semolina, two table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar, and a slice of fresh butter. 
 Stir the mixture over the fire till it thickens 
 a little. Pour ■ it out, let it cool, and add 
 gradually four well-beaten eggs. Line a pie- 
 dish half way down with good pastry, butter the 
 bottom, pour in the mixture, and bake the 
 pudding m a moderate oven. If a plain pud- 
 ding is required, two eggs only need be used. 
 Serve stewed fruit or wine sauce with the pud- 
 
 ding. Time to bake, about half an hour, or till, 
 set. Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. 
 
 SEMOLINA PUDDING, STEAMED. 
 
 Take a pint of milk, and flavour it with 
 pounded bitter almonds. Strain, and put it into. 
 a saucepan, and mix with it three ounces of 
 semolina, six or eight ratafias, a pinch of salt, 
 three table-spoonfuls of sugar, and a good slice 
 of butter. Stir the mixture over the fire till it 
 thickens and leaves the sides of the saucepan. 
 Pour it out, let it cool, and stir briskly into it 
 six well-whisked eggs. Butter a. plain mould 
 rather thickly, fill it with the preparation, cover 
 it closely, and steam until done enough. Let it 
 stand two or three minutes. Turn the pudding 
 out carefully, pour stewed fruit or sweet sauce 
 round it, and send a little more to table on a 
 separate dish. The saucepan must be closely 
 covered, and a continuous supply of steam kept 
 round the pudding, that it may be thoroughly 
 cooked. Time to steam, one hour. Probable 
 cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 SEMOLINA SOUP. 
 
 Take any kind of nicely-flavoured stock, and 
 let it boil. Drop into it as ipuch semolina as 
 will thicken it, and keep stirring for fear it 
 should burn. Let it simmer gently until done 
 enough, and serve very hot. Time to simmer, 
 ten minutes. Prom one to two ounces of semo- 
 lina will thicken a quart of stock. 
 
 SERVICE BERRIES. 
 
 These are the fruit of the wild service-tree, 
 very common in the hedges and fields of some 
 parts of England. They are at present little 
 known, but were in considerable use formerly. 
 The country people in some places gather the 
 bunches of berries, and hang them up in the air 
 till they undergo an incipient putrefaction, ia 
 which state they possess a peculiar acid, astrin- 
 gent taste, and are considered as having cathar- 
 tic properties. 
 SEVILLE ORANGE. 
 
 Tlie Seville orange is of the same species as 
 the sweet orange, but so bitter in taste that it 
 is unfit to cat in its raw state. It is chiefly 
 used for making marmalade {see Orange Mae- 
 malade) and wine, and the rind is used for 
 flavouring purposes. It seldom comes into the 
 market before the end of February. 
 
 SEVILLE ORANGE CAKES. 
 
 Divide the oranges in halves, and take out the 
 pips, of which there are a good many small ones. 
 Scrape the pulp and juice into a bowl, and boil 
 the rinds until they are so tender that a fork 
 will pierce them easily. Dry them, and weigh 
 them, and allow two pounds of powdered sugar 
 to one pound of orange-rinds. Pound them to 
 paste in a mortar, and add, very gradually, the 
 juice, the pulp, and the powdered sugar. Mix 
 all together, and when the preparation is thick 
 and yellow, drop it upon tins, and dry the cakes 
 in a cool oven. Time, about two hours to boil 
 the rind. Probable cost, Seville oranges. Is. per 
 dozen when plentiful. 
 
 SEVILLE ORANGE CARDINAL. 
 
 A few days before the cardinal is wanted peel 
 three bitter oranges, slice them very thin, and 
 
SEV 
 
 798 
 
 SHA 
 
 pour a bottle of wine over them ; then strain the 
 preparation through a tamis, and add to the 
 juice two bottles of wine and two or three 
 pounds of sugar : keep stirring all the time till 
 the sugar is completely melted. 
 SEVILLE ORANGE CORDIAL WATER. 
 
 Take one handful of young green fir-tree 
 tops, two handfuls of water-cress, the same of 
 scurvy - grass, one pound of burdock - roots 
 scraped and sliced, the thin rinds of twelve 
 Seville oranges, the juice of the same, and five 
 gallons of newly-brewed ale-wort. Beat the 
 herbs in a mortar, and infuse all while the 
 wort is fermenting with the yeast. When done 
 working, stop it up, and drink occasionally when 
 fine. 
 SEVILLE ORANGE JELLY. 
 
 The ingredients required for this are : the 
 strained juice of eight Seville oranges, and the 
 thin rinds of two, sixteen sweet oranges, a quart 
 of water, and sugar as below. Peel and pip the 
 sweet oranges, slice them, and put them with 
 the pips into a preserving-pan, with the water 
 and the rinds and juice of the Seville oranges. 
 Simmer for half an hour, and strain till clear. 
 Then weigh the whole, and boil it alone for five 
 minutes; add its weight in crushed and heated 
 loaf sugar, and boil until it jellies readily, 
 pour into small pots, and cover. Probable cost, 
 about Is. per pound. 
 SEVILLE ORANGE SYRUP. 
 
 Squeeze the oranges through a fine sieve; to 
 every pint of juice add a pound and a quarter 
 of fine loaf sugar; stir it all up together in a 
 large earthen pan ; skim it twice a day till the 
 sugar is all dissolved, which will take about 
 nine days. It should be kept in a cool place 
 all the time. Then bottle it. A table-spoonful 
 in a glass of water makes a pleasant drink, and 
 it can also be used in the making of orange jelly 
 or cream. 
 SHAD. 
 
 Shad is a salt-water fish, not very highly es- 
 teemed. It is in season from the end of March 
 
 SEMOLINA CUP-PUDDINGS (St'C pOgB 797). 
 
 till May, and may be broiled, fried, baked, 
 boiled, or salted. 
 
 When plentiful shad is fairly cheap, but 
 it varies very much in price. The French 
 
 value this fish highly. They often have it 
 stewed in light wine, and served covered with 
 bechamel. 
 SHAD, BOILED. 
 
 A shad for boiling should not be scaled, but 
 cleaned and washed only. One weighing about 
 eight pounds should be put into boiling water 
 with a handful of salt and boiled slowly for 
 three-quarters of an hour. Drain, and serve on 
 a napkin, garnished with cut lemon and parsley. 
 SHAD, BROILED. 
 
 No. 1. — Scale a shad, cut off its head, empty 
 and wash the fish carefully, split it open down 
 the sides of the backbone, and, if liked, divide 
 each fillet into pieces two or three inches wide. 
 Wipe these with a soft cloth, dip them in oil, 
 and broil them gently until done enough. Be- 
 rn ember to lay the inner part of the flesh to 
 the fire first, and when that side is done turn it 
 upon the other. Work a tea-spoonful of salt 
 and a tea-spoonful of pepper into four ounces 
 of butter with the point of a sharp knife. Lay 
 the paste on a hot dish, and turn the broilfed 
 fish two or three times in it. Put the dish-cover 
 over the shad, and keep in a hot place till 
 wanted. No. 2. — Clean, empty, and dry a fish 
 weighing about two pounds, and score it across 
 the back. Sprinkle a little pepper and salt over 
 it, pour upon it as much oil as will cover it, and 
 let it lie until it is well soaked. Broil it over a 
 clear steady fire, and when one side is done turn 
 it upon the other. Drain it, serve on a hot dish, 
 and send oil and vinegar, or caper sauce, sorrel 
 sauce, or maitre d'hotel butter, to table with it. 
 Time, half an hour to soak the fish, and about 
 eighteen minutes to broil each side. Cost, 
 variable. 
 SHAD, FRENCH WAY OF COOKING. 
 
 "This fish," says M. TJde, "is held in high 
 estimation in France, and especially in Pans. 
 It must be scaled, emptied, and washed nicely. 
 Next it is to be steeped in a little oil with 
 pepper and salt. It is necessary to split it, that 
 the salt may penetrate. Broil it on both sides 
 over a slow fire. It will be done in the course 
 of one hour. WJien done, let it be served with 
 caper sauce, or with'sorrel." 
 
 SHAD, FRIED. 
 
 Scale the fish, lift the flesh from the bones, 
 and divide it into pieces convenient for serving. 
 Preserve the roe to fry witli them. Wash the 
 pieces, wipe them dry with a soft cloth, and dip 
 each one separately in flour. Put them into 
 boiling hot fat, and fry them gently until done 
 enough. Drain them, and serve them upon a 
 hot dish. Fry the roe, and garnish the fish with 
 it. Serve with caper or maitre d'hotel sauce. 
 Time to fry, ten minutes or more, according to 
 thickness. 
 SHAD, PLANKED, AMERICAN. 
 
 Scale and empty the fish, cut off the head, and 
 split the shad completely open. Spread it on a 
 board, and fasten it down with pegs or skewers 
 to keep it in position. Put it before a clear fire, 
 and rest the lower end of the plank in a tub 
 containing salt and water. Toast the fish, and 
 keep basting it well with the liquor ; when it is 
 almost cooked baste it with butter. Serve on 
 a hot dish, garnish with pickled walnuts, and 
 
SHA 
 
 799 
 
 SHA 
 
 send melted butter flavoured with walnut ket- 
 chup to table in a tureen. 
 
 SHAD, POTTED. 
 
 Clean the shad, take off the head, tail, and 
 fins, and cut the fish into pieces to suit the jar in 
 which it is to be potted. Pound, first separately 
 and afterwards together, two blades of mace, 
 two tea-spoonfuls of allspice, and a tea-spoonful 
 of cloves. Sprinkle a uttle pepper, salt, and 
 cayenne over the pieces of fish, pack them in 
 layers in a jar, and dredge a little of the season- 
 ing over each layer. When the jar is full cover 
 the whole with vinegar, put the lid on the jar, 
 or if it is necessary to tie a covering of paper 
 or cloth over it, lay a piece of dough upon this 
 to prevent the steam escaping. Put the shad in 
 a moderate oven, and bake until done enough. 
 Keep the potted fish covered with the liquor till 
 wanted. It will make»a good breakfast relish. 
 Herrings may be potted in the same way. Time 
 to bake, about three hours. 
 
 SHAD, STUFFED AND BAKED. 
 
 Wash, empty, and scale a shad, and fill the 
 inside with veal or oyster forcemeat, or with a 
 forcemeat prepared as follows. Moisten two 
 slices of crumb of bread with hot water, press 
 the water from it, then beat it up with a slice of 
 butter, three or four sage-leaves chopped small, 
 and a little pepper and salt. Sew up the body 
 of the fish with soft cotton, and dredge it well 
 with fiour. Lay it in a dripping-pan upon a 
 trivet, seasoning it with pepper and salt; lay 
 little pieces of butter here and there upon it, 
 and pour a pint of water round it to baste 
 it with. Bake in a quick oven, and baste fre- 
 quently, and if necessary add a little more 
 water. Mix a heaped tea-spoonful of flour to 
 a smooth paste with a little water, work into 
 it a slice of fresh butter, and mix with it half 
 a pint of the gravy in the jian. Put it into 
 a saucepan, stir it till it thickens, and add a 
 table-spoonful of lemoitjuice. Put the fish on 
 a hot dish, strain the sauce over it, garnish with 
 parsley and lemon, and send mashed potatoes 
 to table with it. Time to bake, one hour. 
 
 SHAD, STUFFED AND BROILED. 
 
 Scale a shad weighing about two pounds, 
 empty and clean it carefully, Opening it as little <^ 
 as possible in doing so. Pill it with veal or 
 oyster forcemeat; sew up the body of the fish 
 with soft cotton that the forcemeat may not 
 escape. Wrap it in a sheet of paper that has 
 been dipped in oil, and broil over a clear, gentle 
 fire. Serve with caper sauce or with oil and 
 vinegar. Time to broil, about an hour. 
 
 SHADDOCK ORANGE. 
 
 This plant was brought from the East Indies 
 to the West, where it is now much cultivated. 
 It sometimes produces fruit larger than a man's 
 head, but it is of a harsh flavour and pale 
 colour when compared with that of India, the 
 flesh of which is sweet and of a deep gold colour. 
 When several sorts of oranges are presented at 
 the dessert it makes a striking addition to the 
 variety. The juice is of a sub-acid sweetness, 
 and excellent for quenching thirst, and the 
 fruit, from the thickness of its skin, will keep 
 longer in. sea-voyagea than any of the other 
 species of citrus. 
 
 SHALLOT. 
 
 The shallot, or eschalot, is a kind of onion — 
 the mildest cultivated — used for seasoning soups 
 and made dishes, and for flavouring sauces and 
 salads. The shallot has a bulbous root, made 
 up of a number of smaller bulbs, called' cloves. 
 It ought to be taken up in the autumn, and be 
 hung in nets in a cool airy place. When pro- 
 perly dried, it will keep till spring. It is 
 stronger in taste than the onion, but does not 
 leave so strong an odour on the palate, and for 
 this reason is often employed instead of the 
 onion, both in cooking and for eating in a raw 
 state. It is planted during October or Novem- 
 ber, or early in spring, say in February, March, 
 or the beginning of April. Shallots are in best 
 condition during July, August, and September. 
 
 SHALLOT, FOR VENISON. 
 
 Strip off the skin from some fine shallots — 
 about a pint in quantity — boil them in salted 
 water for five minutes, then throW off the first 
 water, and add more boiling water to them. If 
 the sauce is desired very mild, change the water 
 until they are quite done, and throw in salt 
 enough to flavour. Drain them thoroughly. 
 Serve in good melted butter or gravy. This 
 sauce is often served as an accompaniment to 
 venison when the true flavour of the meat is not 
 relished. Time, about fifteen minutes to boil. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. for this quantity. 
 
 SHALLOT GRAVY, FOR BROILED CUTLETS, ETC. 
 
 Peel and mince half a dozen shallots. Put 
 them into a saucepan with a wine-glassful of 
 vinegar, a pinch of salt, and a little coarse 
 pepper, and let them boil very gently for five 
 minutes. Pour over them a quarter of a pint of 
 brown gravy, add a small lump of sugar, let the 
 sauce boil again until the gravy is pleasantly 
 flavoured, and strain it into a tureen. If liked, 
 a clove and a little piece of mace may be boiled 
 with the shallots. Time, altogether, twelve to 
 fifteen minutes. 
 
 SHALLOT PICKLE. 
 
 Shallot pickle is prepared in the same way as 
 garlic pickle, that is to say,- as follows. Steep 
 one quarter of a pound of ginger in strong salt 
 and water for five days. At the, end of that 
 time cut it into slices, and dry it in the sun; 
 put it into a large stone jar with a gallon of the 
 best white-wine vinegar. Peel one pound of 
 garlic or shallot, salt it well, and let it stand 
 in the salt for three days. Wipe it, and dry it 
 in the sun, then put it into the pickle. Add 
 also to the pickle a quarter of a pound of long 
 pepper steeped in salt and water and well dried, 
 one pound of bruised mustard-seed, and a quar- 
 ter of a pound of turmeric. Shake these ingre- 
 dients well in the jar, and add anything that it 
 is desirable to pickle as it comes into season, 
 salting and drying it previously in the sun. 
 When completed, the pickle should be kept for a 
 year or two. When that time has expired, it 
 will be found to be excellent. The flavour of 
 shallots may be obtained by placing them in a 
 bottle of cold vinegar : in a month they will be 
 found to have imparted their flavour to the 
 vinegar, which may be used for flavouring 
 sauces, or other culinary purposes, as re- 
 ouired. 
 
SHA 
 
 800 
 
 SHE 
 
 SHALLOT SAUCE, FOR BOILED MUTTON, 
 POULTRY, CHOPS, AND STEAKS. 
 
 Mince four shallots, lay them or the comer 
 of a napkin, pour cold water over them, and 
 press them with a cloth till dry. Put them into 
 a saucepan with a quarter of a pint of stock, add 
 a little pepper and salt, and let them simmer 
 gently till they are tender. Mix with them a 
 quarter of a pint of good melted butter, and stir 
 the sauce again over the fire, but do not allow 
 it to boil up. Add a dessert-spoonful of chilli 
 vinegar, and serve. Time, altogether, a quarter 
 of an hour. 
 
 SHALLOT SAUCE, FOR TRIPE, ETC. 
 
 Skin and mince twelve shallots, and add, if 
 liked, a little piece of garlic the size of a pea. 
 This addition, however, is sometimes objected 
 to. Put them into a saucepan with a little 
 fresh butter, and also a tea-spoonful of finely- 
 grated horse-radish, a table-spoonful of strained 
 lemon-juice, and a little salt, cayenne, and 
 mixed mustard. Stir these ingredients quickly 
 over a brisk fire for five minutes ; add gradually 
 a quarter of a pint of milk, and simmer the 
 sauce a few minutes longer. Lift the saucepan 
 from the fire, and let its contents cool for two 
 minutes. Stir into the sauce the yolk of an egg 
 beaten up with a quarter of a pint of cream or 
 milk, and whisk it over the fire for a minute or 
 two, but on no account allow it to boil; serve 
 very hot. Time, altogether, a quarter of an hour. 
 
 SHALLOT SAUCE, MILD. 
 
 Pare four or six shallots, and throw them 
 into boiling water slightly salted. Let them 
 boil five minutes; drain them, and boil them 
 again in fresh boiling water: repeat this until 
 the shallots are tender. Drain them, mince 
 them, and stir them into a pint of good melted 
 butter or white sauce. Let all simmer together 
 a few minutes longer, and serve. Some cooks 
 put an inch of lemon-rind with the shallots. 
 Time to boil the shallots, about a quarter of an 
 hour. 
 SHALLOTS, PICKLED. 
 
 Take as much vinegar as will be required to 
 cover the shallots, and boil it with spices in the 
 following proportions. To each quart of vine- 
 gar j)ut a small blade of mace, two cloves, four 
 allspice, two grains of cayenne, a salt-spoonful ' 
 of black peppercorns, and a tea-spoonful of salt. 
 Strain it, and let it get cold. Divide and skin 
 the shallots; put them into perfectly dry and 
 sound pickling-jars, and intersperse amongst 
 them the spices taken from the vinegar. Pour 
 the vinegar over them, and let them be entirely 
 covered with it. Store for use. The pickle 
 may be used in two months. Time to boil the 
 vinegar and spices, three minutes. 
 
 SHALLOT VINEGAR. 
 
 Take four ounces of shallots that are fully ripe 
 without being at all acrid. Skin and mince 
 them, put them into a bottle, and pour over 
 them a quart of best pickling vinegar. Let them 
 infuse for ten days, shaking the bottle every 
 day. Strain the vinegar, filter it, bottle in 
 small bottles, cork these securely, and store for 
 ^use. This preparation will prove most valuable 
 for flavouring soups, sauces, hashes, etc. It 
 will keep for a long time. Time, ten days to 
 
 infuse. Shallots are in season during the months 
 of July, August, and September. 
 
 SHALLOT VINEGAR (another way). 
 
 Skin five or six ounces of ^ballots, and put 
 them into a jar with a quart of good vinegar; 
 keej) the jar closely corked for three weeks, then, 
 strain for use. If a stronger flavour be desired, 
 use more shallots. Garlic vinegar is made in 
 the same way, only using half the quantity of 
 garlic to one quart of vinegar. Time, from two 
 to three weeks. 
 SHALLOT WINE. 
 
 Shallot wine is a preparation largely used and 
 highly esteemed. When an acid taste is not re- 
 quired, and, consequently, when shallot vinegar 
 would be objected to, shallot wine will flavour 
 a hash or ragoiit with onion most pleasantly, 
 and the wine extracts the flavour of shallots 
 even better than vineggr does. Skin, mince, 
 and bruise four ounces of shallots; put them 
 into a bottle with a piut of sherry, and let them 
 infuse ten days or a fortnight ; strain the liquor, 
 and bottle for use. When a very strong flavour- 
 ing is desired, pour the pint of sherry over three 
 ounces of shallots; let them infuse ten days; 
 pour off the liquor, and put it into a clean 
 bottle with three ounces of fresh shallots, 
 skinned and bruised. Infuse ten days longer, 
 strain, and bottle for use. Time, ten days or 
 more. 
 
 SHARP SAUCE, FOR CUTLETS, BOILED BEEF, 
 BOILED MUTTON, ETC. 
 
 SMn and mince four shallots, and put them 
 into a saucepan with a slice of fresh butter and 
 four table-spoonfuls of vinegar. Stir these over 
 the flre till the vinegar is reduced and the butter 
 looks clear. Mix one ounce of flour smoothly 
 into it, and keep stirring over a brisk fire until 
 the paste is slightly coloured without being at 
 all burnt. Add gradually a pint of broth, and 
 let the sauce simmer for twenty minutes. Stir 
 in a table-spoonful of minced gherkins, a table- 
 spoonful of blanched and chopped parsley, and 
 a little pepper and salt, if required. Boil, skim, 
 and serve very hot. A little browning should be 
 added if necessary. Time, altogether, half an 
 hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for six or 
 eight persons. 
 
 'SHEEP'S BRAINS (a la Maitre d'Hotel)- 
 
 Proceed just as in the recipe Sheep's Bbains, 
 Matelote op, with the croutons (crusts) glazed 
 and stuck in the dish; and at dinner-time, as 
 soon as you have dished up the brains, take 
 three spoonfuls of bechamel, a good bit of fresh 
 butter, a little salt and cayenne, some parsley 
 chopped and blanched, and the juice of half a 
 lemon; then work the sauce over the fire to 
 render it very hot, and serve quickly. 
 
 SHEEP'S BRAINS (k la Maftre d'Hotel), another way. 
 Prepare and parboil the brains ; then lay them 
 in the bottom of a wide stewpan, each brain 
 resting upon a slice of bacon. Add a small 
 bunch of parsley, a small onion, one clove, some 
 salt, a chilli, a couple of slices of lemon, and a 
 quarter of a pint of broth, and cover the whole 
 with a layer of bacon. Cover the stewpan, and 
 let its contents stew slowly for half an hour 
 without being uncovered. Let the brains now 
 ctand a cottjue of hours in the stewpan by the 
 
SHE 
 
 801 
 
 SHE 
 
 side of the fire, merely that they may acquire 
 the flavour of the accompanying iugredients ; 
 but they must neither hoil nor simmer, nor in. 
 anywise approach ebullition. Have some tri-: 
 angular sUces of bread ready fried to garnish 
 the dish with. Drain the brains from the fat, 
 place them upon a dish with the sippets, and 
 pour over them the following sauce. Into a 
 small stewpan put two ounces of butter; when 
 it boils sprinkle in half a table-spoonful of flour. 
 Stir into this half a pint of broth, and put in 
 with it a bunch of parsley and a very small 
 bit of lemon-peel. When the sauce is reduced 
 and of proper consistency, season it with salt 
 and a little cayenne. Strain the sauce, and put 
 it again into the stewpan, adding a little lemon- 
 juice and some chopped parsley. Give it a few 
 boils, and pour it quite hot over the brains. 
 
 SHEEP'S BRAINS AND TONGUE. 
 
 Take the brains out of the head without break- 
 ing them, soak them in salted wairr for an hour, 
 skin them, and pick away the fibres. Throw 
 the brains into boiling water, also the tongue, 
 already boiled with the head. Let the brains 
 boil quickly for a quarter of an hour; take 
 them out, mince them, and beat them up 
 with three table-spoonfuls of the liquor in 
 which they were boiled, three table-spoonfuls 
 of cream, a table-spoonful of blanched 
 find chopped parsley, and a little pepper and 
 salt. Boil the brains with half a tea-spoonful 
 of white thickening ; or, failing this, with a 
 small piece of butter rolled in flour. Skin the 
 tongue, put it in the centre of a small dish, 
 pour the brains round it, and serve very hot. 
 Time, altogether, thirty to forty minutes. 
 Probable cost, sheep's heads, lOd. to Is. each. 
 Suf&cient for one or two persons. 
 
 SHEEP'S BRAINS (en Matelote). 
 
 Prepare the brains as for Sheep's Bbains, a 
 liA Maitbe d'H6tbl, almost the only difference 
 being in the sauce poured upon them, which is 
 thus made. Put two ounces of butter into a 
 stewpan. When it has done boiling, stir into 
 it half a table-spoonful of flour. Stir the butter 
 and flour till smooth, and let it fry gently until 
 it has acquired a rich brown colour, of reddish 
 hue. Next add by degrees a pint of white 
 wine (Madeira or sherry), and half, a pint, of 
 well-flavoured and rich broth, but without any 
 fat. Put in also a bunch of herbs so tied up 
 that it may easily be taken out before the sauce 
 is used. This bunch is to consist of parsley, 
 green onions, half a bay-leaf, a very small bit 
 of thyme, and a clove of garlic. Let the sauce 
 reduce; then throw in a few morels, small 
 mushrooms, and small bleached onions. Season 
 with salt, black pepper, and cayenne. When 
 the sauce is on the point of being done, put 
 into it a couple of ounces of truffles cut into 
 slices and fried on both sides in butter. Let 
 the sauce boil up again, and it is ready. 
 Arrange the brains in the dish with sippets of 
 toast, garnish with forcemeat balls, and with 
 some crayfish; then pour the sauce over them, 
 and serve up immediately. 
 SHEEP'S BRAINS, MATELOTE OF. 
 
 Take eight unbroken sheep's brains. Put 
 them into a large vessel with some lukewarm 
 water; take off the skin, and let them disgorge 
 2z 
 
 for two hours. When they are become quite 
 white, blanch them in boiling water, vinegar, 
 and salt; and when they are very firm put 
 them in cold water, after which place some 
 layers of bacon round a stewpan big eilough 
 to hold all the eight brains; add a small 
 onion with one clove, a small bundle of pars- 
 ley well-seasoned, and some salt, and cover 
 with slices of bacon and a rdund of paper; 
 a little broth is required, and a few slices 
 of lemon to keep' the brains very white. 
 Twenty minutes will suflice to boil them, but 
 they must be boiled two hours or more before 
 dinner to acquire a fliavour ; then at dinner you 
 must have ready some croutons, or small crusts 
 of bread, in quantity equal to the brains, stick 
 them in the dish alternately to leave room to 
 put the brains in the spaces; mask them with 
 the matelote sauce, mushrooms, and small 
 onions, etc. This matelote is the same sauce as 
 the financifere, only reduce a little Madeira wine 
 in a small stewpan, and put in it a mushroom, a 
 small glazed onion, a small quenelle, etc., and 
 put the ragout into the middle, and the sauce 
 over the brains. 
 
 SHEEP'S BRAINS, ROASTED OR BAKED, 
 
 Four or six brains will be required for a dish. 
 Prepare the brains as for stewing, and procure 
 as many slices of bacon as there are brains. 
 After the brains have been foiled and thrown 
 into cold water, drain and dry them perfectly; 
 brush over with oil, and roll them in highly^ 
 seasoned bread-crumbs. Put them on the bacon 
 in a Dutch oven before the fire, or bake in a well- 
 heated oven, turning them about that they may 
 be equally cooked, and basting them occasion- 
 ally. When they are nicely browned, take them 
 up. Lay the slices of bacon on toast, put the 
 brains upon them, and send sharp sauce or 
 tomato sauce to table in a tureen. Time to 
 bake, thirty to forty minutes. Probable costi 
 2s^ Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 SHEEP'S BRAINS, SCALLOPED. 
 
 Soak the brains in cold salted water for an 
 hour. Remove the skin, and pick away the 
 fibres. Put the brains into boiling water in which 
 vinegar and salt have been mixed, and let them 
 boil quickly for ten minutes. Throw them into 
 cold water for a few minutes, and drain, them. 
 Cut them into small pieces, and mix with them 
 an onion or shallot finely minced, . a few pars- 
 ley leaves scalded and chopped small, a few 
 drops of vinegar and anchovy essence, and a 
 little pepper and salt. Dissolve a slice of fresh 
 butter in a saucepan, throw in the brains, and 
 shake the saucepan over the fire until they are 
 done enough without being browned. Cleanse 
 the scallop-shells, or small scallop-dishes will 
 serve the same purpose, butter the insides rather 
 thickly, and cover them with a layer of bread- 
 crumbs. Distribute the minced brains and the 
 gravy amongst them, and cover all with a layer 
 of crumbs. ' Brown the surface in a quick oven 
 or before the fire, and serve very hot. This 
 favourite mode of cookery may be advantai- 
 geously applied to cold meat, vegetables, mush- 
 rooms, fish, and shell-fish. Time to bake the 
 scalloped brains, fifteen to twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost. Is.. 8d. Sufficient, one set of 
 brains for two scallop-shells. 
 
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 SHE 
 
 SHEEP'S BRAINS, STEWED (a good breakfast or 
 side dish). 
 Take four or six fresh brains, soak them in 
 Bait and water for an hour, remove the skin, 
 pick off the fibres, then put the brains into boil- 
 ing water into which has been put when cold a 
 dessert-spoonful of salt and a table-spoonful of 
 vinegar. Let the brains boil quickly for ten 
 minutes. Take them up without 'breaking, 
 and put them into cold water. Take as 
 many thin slices of bacon as there are brains. 
 Put them into a saucepan, lay the brains upon 
 them, pour over them as much stock or broth as 
 will cover them, and add a bunch of parsley, 
 a sprig of thyme, three young Onions, two 
 cloves, ail inch or two of thin lemon-rind, and a 
 little salt and cayenne. Cover the saucepan 
 closely, and let its contents simmer gently until 
 done enough. Put the pieces of bacon on a 
 dish, and lay the brains upon them. Strain the 
 liquor, thicken it with flour and butter, stir a 
 table-spoonful of lemon-juice into it, and pour 
 it over the meat. Garnish with sippets, and 
 serve very hot. If liked, a tea-spoonful of an- 
 chovy essence and a glassful of claret may be 
 added to the sauce. Time to boil the brains the 
 second time, half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 
 Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 SHEEP'S HARSLET, HASHED, 
 
 Takd the liver, heart, and lights of a sheep, 
 and wash them well in several waters. Boil 
 them gently till tender in salted water, care- 
 fully removing the scum as it rises. Mince them 
 finely, season with pepper and salt, and add a 
 seasoning of powdered herbs, if liked. Moisten 
 "the mince with stock, thicken with brown 
 thickening, and stir it over the fire till it is 
 quite hot. Serve on a hot dish, and send 
 potatoes and boiled carrots to table with it. 
 A few pickles may be served with it, if desired. 
 Time to stew the meat, an hour and a half, or 
 till tender. Probable cost, variable, but inex- 
 pensive. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 SHEEP'S HEAD. 
 
 Sheep's head has so little meat belonging to 
 it, either inside or out, that it seems to many 
 persons as though it were scarcely worth the 
 trouble it gives. Nevertheless, it constitutes 
 good nourishing food at a moderate expense, 
 and when it is liked at all it is very much liked. 
 Several recipes are here given for preparing it. 
 It is one of the ancient national dishes of Scot- 
 land, and to dwellers north of the Tweed is 
 almost always welcome, not only on account of 
 its intrinsic excellence, but also because of the 
 associations which belong to it. The village of 
 Duddingston, near Edinburgh, was long cele- 
 brated for this dish. A sheep's head may be 
 stewed with or without the trotters and the 
 pluck ; nourishing and wholesome broth may be 
 made from it; it may be hashed, curried, or 
 served as si ragout, or it may be made into a 
 pie. When sauces are required for it, those 
 usually served with cow-heel or boiled mutton 
 are the best adapted for it. Some cooks prefer 
 the head of a ram to that of a wether, though it 
 needs longer boiling. 
 SHEEP'S HEAD, BAKED. 
 
 Split the head in halves, take out the brains, 
 and soak the head in lukewarm water for an 
 
 hour. Drain it, put the halves together, and 
 keep them in position by tying string round 
 them. Lay the head in a dripping-tin, put raw 
 potatoes pared and cut into halves round it, lay 
 little pieces of butter here and there upon it, 
 and bake in a moderate oven. Baste frequently, 
 and turn the potatoes about that they may be 
 equally done. When cooked enough, serve the 
 head on a dish, put the potatoes round it, pour 
 the gravy in the pan over all, and serve as hot 
 as possible. The brains and tongue may be 
 served on a separate dish (see Sheep's Bbains 
 AND Tongtje'). Time to bake the head, about 
 one hour and a half. Probable cost. Is. 2d. to 
 Is. 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 SHEEP'S HEAD, BAKED, WITH MASHED 
 POTATOES. 
 
 This is an inexpensive and wholesome dish. 
 Clean the head thoroughly, and let it soak in 
 lukewarm water for a couple of hours to get rid 
 of the blood. Put it into a stewpan with a 
 carrot, a turnip, two onions, and a leek, all cut 
 into dice, and add a bunch of parsley, a sprig 
 of thyme, and a sprig of marjoram, all tied 
 together, a little pepper and salt, a small lump 
 of sugar, and two ounces of pearl barley. Pour 
 two quarts of water into the pan, and simmer 
 all gently together for a couple of hours. Skim 
 the liquor carefully, and stir the soup occa- 
 sionally to keep the barley from burningf to the ^ 
 bottom of the pan. Take a pint-basinful of 
 well-washed potatoes, and spread them on a 
 dish in a small mound about two inches deep. 
 Take up the head, drain it, place it upon the 
 potatoes, and sprinkle over it two table-spoon- 
 fuls of nicely-seasoned bread-crumbs. Lay little 
 pieces of butter or dripping here and there upon 
 it, and bake in a, quick oven till both the head 
 and the potatoes are brightly browned. Take 
 the bunch of herbs from the soup, skim the 
 latter carefully, boil it up once more, and serve 
 in a tureen. Time to bake the head, half an 
 hour. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for three or 
 four persons. 
 SHEEP'S HEAD, BOILED, WITH VEGETABLES. 
 
 Clean the head, split it, take out the brains, 
 and soak it in lukewarm water. Tie the halves 
 together with string, put the head into a sauce- 
 pan, and pour over it as much cold Tvater as 
 will cover it. Bring this to the boil, skim care- 
 fully, and then simmer gently for an hour. 
 Throw into the liquor two turnips, two car- 
 rots, two onions, two parsnips, a small bunch 
 of par.sley, and a little pepper and salt. Mix 
 four ounces of oatmeal smoothly with a little of 
 the liquor, stir it into the rest, let it boil, then 
 cover the saucepan closely, .and simmer all 
 gently together until done enough. Take up 
 the head, and remove the tongue, which should 
 be served with the brains on a separate dish 
 (see Sheep's Beains and Tonoue). Put the head 
 on a dish, place the vegetables round it, and 
 serve hot. The broth may be used for soup. 
 Time, about two hours and a half. Probable 
 cost, sheep's head. Is. 2d. to Is. 6d. Sufficient 
 for two or three persons. 
 SHEEP'S HEAD BROTH (a Scottish recipe). 
 
 Take a large fat young head and a " gang " of 
 trotters, all carefully singed. Wash and scrape 
 them well, and let them soak in cold water lot 
 
SHE 
 
 803 
 
 SHE 
 
 an hour or two. Take out the eyes, split the 
 head into halves, and remove the brains. 
 Shorten the jaw-hones where there is no flesh, 
 and cut out the gristle inside the nose. Pre- 
 pare the trotters for dressing (see Sheep's Teot- 
 TEBs), wash and brush both head and feet once 
 more, and leave them in water till wanted. Put 
 the two halves of the head together, and tie a 
 string round it to keep the brains and the 
 tongue in their proper places. Lay it in a 
 saucepan with a pound or two of the scrag end 
 of a neck of mutton, a large cupful of barley, 
 and about half a pint of dried peas which have 
 been soaked in cold water. Pour over all a 
 gallon of water, and add a little salt; boil the 
 contents of the stewpan very gently, and care- 
 fully remove the scum as it rises. When the 
 head has boiled an hour, put in the trotters, and 
 at the end of two hours, add two carrots, two 
 turnips, and two onions, all sliced together, with 
 a few sticks of celery, if liked. Boil the head 
 three hours or three hours and a half longer, 
 and remember that the more slowly it is boiled 
 the better will be both head and soup. Serve 
 the head with the trotters round it on a dish, 
 and garnish with boiled carrots and turnips. 
 Serve the soup in a tureen. Sometimes the 
 brains are not put inside the head, but are 
 thrown into the broth when it is boiling, sim- 
 mered for a quarter of an hour, and then served 
 on a separate dish, with brown sauce poured 
 over them. If the sheep's tongues are not 
 wanted immediately, let them cool in the broth. 
 When they are to be served, warm them up in 
 the same, cut them in halves without separating 
 them, and lay them open on a dish. Send 
 piquant sauce to table with them. Time, five 
 to six hours to simmer the sheep's head. Pro- 
 bable cost, sheep's head, from Is. 2d. to Is. 6d. 
 Sufficient, one head for two or three persons. 
 
 SHEEP'S HEAD BROTH (an English recipe). 
 
 Skin the head, split it in halves, and remove 
 the brains. Soak the head in water, and wash it 
 well. Put it into a stewpan with half a pound 
 of pearl barley, pour a gallon of water over it, 
 .and let it simmer gently for an hour. Care- 
 fully remove the scum as it rises. Throw in a 
 small handful of salt, with two turnips, two 
 carrots, and two onions, and simmer all gently 
 till the flesh of the head is tender. Lift it out, 
 serve it on a dish, and garnish with turnips and 
 carrots. Serve the soup separately in a tureen. 
 If liked, the brains can be made 'into forcemeat- 
 balls, fried, and served in the soup. To make 
 these, clear the brains of flbre, throw them into 
 boiling water, and boil them for ten minutes. 
 Pound them well with a spoonful of bread- 
 crumbs, a spoonful of flour, a tea-spoonful of 
 finely-shredded parsley, a little grated lemon- 
 peel, a slice of butter, and pepper and salt. Bind 
 the mixture together with the yolks of two eggs, 
 form it into small cakes, and fry these in hot 
 fat till they are brightly browned. Drain them, 
 and add them to the soup. Time, four hours 
 and a half. Probable cost, sheep's head. Is. 2d. 
 to Is. 6d. Sufficient, one head for two or three 
 persons. 
 SHEEP'S HEAD, CURRIED. 
 
 Clean a sheep's head thoroughly, remove the 
 brains, and boil till tender. Cut the. meat from 
 
 the bones and divide it into neat slices ; skin the 
 tongue, and slice it also. Put the pieces in a 
 saucepan, moisten with the liquor in which the 
 head was boiled, and cover the pan until the 
 gravy is made. Mince two onions, and fry them 
 in a little butter, stirring tliem briskly ever the 
 fire till they . are soft. If the acid flavour is 
 liked, a sour apple may be minced and fried 
 with them. Mix a tea-spoonful of curry-powder 
 and a tea-spoonful of curry-paste smoothly with 
 a little milk, add three-quarters of a pint of the 
 broth in which the head was boiled, and pour 
 the liquor over the onions. Let them simmer a 
 few minutes, then rub the whole through a sieve. 
 Wash the brains, free them from fibre, tie them 
 in muslin, and let them boil for a quarter of an 
 "hour. Beat them smoothly, mix with them ^ 
 table-spoonful of flour and three table-spoonfuls 
 of new milk, and stir them into the curry sauce. 
 Stir the mixture gently till it boils, strain it 
 over the meat, add a little salt, and simmer the 
 curry for a few minutes without letting it boil. 
 Serve on a hot dish, and send rice boiled for 
 curry to table with the sheep's head. Tiide, 
 three hours and a half. Probable cost, 2s. 
 Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 SHEEP'S HEAD FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 Wash and clean a sheep's head thoroughly, 
 split it in halves, take out the brains, soak it 
 in lukewarm water for an hour or two, dry it, 
 and put it into a stewpan with two pounds of 
 lean beef. Pour three pints of cold water into 
 the pan, and add a small turnip, half a lettuce 
 or endive, a small lump of sugar, a spoonful 
 of made mustard, and a little pepper and salt. 
 Let all simmer gently together for two hours, 
 carefully removing the scum as it rises. Cut 
 the meat from the cheeks into neat pieces, small 
 enough to be put into the mouth without being 
 cut, lay these aside, and cover them to keep 
 them moist. Put the bones and trimmings of 
 the head back into the soup, and stir into it a 
 table-spoonful of fine oatmeal which has been 
 beaten to a smooth paste with a cupful of cold 
 water. Simmer the soup for two hours longer, 
 and strain it. Skim away the fat, put the 
 pieces of meat back into the soup, and stir it 
 over the fire till it is quite hot without boiling. 
 A glassful of port may be thrown into the soup 
 before- serving. The tongue and the brains 
 may be served separately. Time, four hours 
 and a half. Probable cost, sheep's head, Is. 2d. 
 to Is. 6d. Sufficient for about a pint and a half 
 of soup. 
 
 SHEEP'S HEAD, HASHED. 
 
 Wash the head, split it in halves, and soak it 
 in lukewarm water. Clear the brains from 
 fibre, and leave them in cold water till wanted. 
 Put the head and the tongue into a saucepan 
 with two onions and a bunch of sweet herbs, 
 cover with cold water, let this boil, skim it, and 
 draw the pan to the side of the fire that the 
 head may simmer gently until done enough. 
 Take it up, cut the flesh into neat slices, flour and 
 pepper these, and put them into a clean sauce- 
 pan with the two onions that were boiled with 
 them finely minced. Mix a dessert-spoonful of 
 flour to a smooth paste with a little cold water, 
 and stir into it half a pint of the liquor in which 
 the head was boiled. Add a, large table-spoon- 
 
SHE 
 
 804 
 
 SHE 
 
 fnl of any good store sauce, and salt and pepper 
 if required. Pour the sauce over the slices of 
 meat, add a spoonful of minced parsley and a 
 spoonful of brown thickening, and let all sim- 
 mer gently, without boiling, for half an hour. 
 Serve the hash on a hot dish, and garnish with 
 toasted sippets. Tie the brains in muslin, and 
 boil them for a quarter of an hour. Mince 
 them, and beat them up with a table-spoonful 
 of scalded and chopped parsley, half a cupful 
 of milk, and half a cupful of the liquor in which 
 the head was boiled. Boil this for a few 
 minutes, thicken with flour and butter, and 
 season with pepper and salt. Keep the tongue 
 hot until the last moment. Skin it, lay it in 
 the centre of a dish, pour the brains round, and 
 serve hot. Time, altogether, three hours and a 
 half to four hours. Probable cost, sheep's 
 head. Is. 2d. to Is. 6d. Sufficient for two or 
 three persons. 
 
 SHEEP'S HEAD PIE (a breakfast or luncheon dish). 
 Scald, clean, and boil in the usual way a 
 sheep's head and a ganjf of trotters. Cut off 
 the meat in neat pieces, and pack these closely 
 in a pie-dish; season with pepper, salt, and 
 finely-minced onion; lay little pieces of butter 
 here and there upon them, and pour over them 
 a little of the liquor in which the head and feet 
 were boiled. Cover the dish with pastry, and 
 bake the pie till it is done enough. Let it get 
 cold, take off the crust, and serve it cut into 
 thin slices like brawn. Garnish with parsley. 
 Time to bake, one hour. 
 
 SHEEP'S HEAD SOUP. 
 
 Take two sheep's heads, wash, split, and soak 
 them in lukewarm water, remove the brains, 
 and put them into a. stewpan with a bunch of 
 eweet herbs, two carrots, a turnip, two onions, 
 a leek, three or four sticks of celery, a small 
 lump of sugar, a spoonful of mixed mustard, 
 and a little pepper and salt. Pour two quarts 
 of water over all, bring the liquor to the boil, 
 skim it carefully, draw the pan to the side of 
 the fire, and let its contents simmer gently for 
 two hours. Wash the brains, clear them from 
 ifibre, boil them for a quarter of an hour, and 
 beat them till smooth; put with them a slice 
 of fresh butter, two table-spoonfuls of fine 
 oatmeal, two table-spoonfuls of mushroom ket- 
 chup, and a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar. 
 Stir the mixture into the soup, and let it sim- 
 mer again for two hours. Skin the tongues, 
 and cut them and the meat from the head into 
 neat mouthfuls. Let them heat again in the 
 soup, add a glassful of light wine, and serve. 
 Time, four hours and a half. Probable cost, 
 sheep's head. Is. 2d. to Is. 6d. Suificient for 
 six or eight persons. 
 SHEEP'S HEAD, STUFFED AND ROASTED. 
 
 Instead of skinning the head, scald and scrape 
 it till the wool is removed, then split it in 
 halves. Take out the brains whole and the 
 tongue. Cleanse the former from fibre, wash 
 the latter well, and place both in a saucepan. 
 Cover them with cold water mixed with a large 
 spoonful of vinegar, and simmer gently for 
 twenty minutes. Take the head, remove the 
 eyes, cut away the gristle froin the nose, -shorten 
 the jawbones where there is no flesh, then soak 
 it in lukewarm water. Make a little good 
 
 veal forcemeat, and add to it an onion finely 
 shredded, and the tongue and brains minced. 
 Bind the forcemeat together with yolk of egg, put 
 it into the head, fasten the two halves securely 
 with string, and roast before a clear fire. Baste 
 liberally, and send to table with it brown sauce 
 and red currant jelly. Time to roast, two 
 hours. Probable cost, sheep's head. Is. 2d. to 
 Is. 6d. Sufficient for three persons. 
 
 SHEEP'S HEAD, TONGUE, AND TROTTERS, 
 PUDDINGS OF. 
 
 The remains of sheep's head, tongue, and 
 trotters may be made into a pudding with suet 
 crust, and boiled in the usual way. Two or 
 three sliced walnuts may be put in with the 
 meat. 
 
 SHEEP'S HEARTS. 
 
 Soak the hearts in water, and wash them 
 thoroughly. Cut away the pipes, and trim the 
 hearts neatly. Fill with good veal forcemeat, 
 and skewer thin slices of fat bacon round them. 
 Roast before a clear fire, and baste liberally. 
 Thicken a quarter of a pint of stock with a 
 tea-spoonful of ground rice, flavour the sauce 
 with ketchup, season with pepper and salt, and 
 add a glass of wine if liked. Serve the hearts 
 on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and 
 send red currant jelly to table with them. The 
 stuffing may be made with the ingredients in the 
 following proportions. Shred a quarter of a 
 pound of beef suet very finely. Mix with it two 
 ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, a dessert- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley, a finely-minced 
 shallot, a tea-spoonful of mixed sweet herbs, 
 the hard-boiled yolk of an egg, and a little 
 pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Mix the dry 
 ingredients thoroughly, moisten them with a 
 tea-spoonful of lemon-juice, and bind them to- 
 gether with the yolk of a raw egg. This quan- 
 tity of stuffing will be sufficient for two hearts. 
 If liked, the strips of bacon can be left off, 
 and the hearts tied round with oiled paper, 
 which should be removed about twenty minutes 
 before the heart is taken up, that it may brown. 
 Time to roast the hearts, about three-quarters 
 of an hour. Probable cost, lOd. each. Suffici- 
 ent, two hearts for three persons. 
 
 SHEEP'S H EARTS. (another way). 
 
 Prepare a seasoning as for a duck, viz., 
 onions, sage, bread-crumbs, pepper, and salt. 
 Take one heart, or more if required; fill well 
 with the seasoning, and fasten up the aperture 
 with a small iron skewer or needle and thread. 
 Place two or three lumps of sugar, or a little 
 brown sugar, in the bottom of a stewpan with 
 a few drops of water; when this is dissolved 
 into a brown or burnt-looking colouring, add 
 a little more water, with a good-sized lump of 
 butter or dripping. Put in the hearts, turning 
 them till they are a rich brown; add enough 
 stock to nearly cover them, with a flavouring of 
 a little sauce, pepper, salt, and vinegar, which 
 will give a piquancy. Stew slowly for two 
 hours. 
 
 SHEEP'S HEARTS, BAKED. 
 
 Prepare and stuff the hearts as for roasting, 
 and skewer thin slices of fat bacon over them. 
 Put them with the broad end downwards in a 
 dripping-tin, sprinkle a little pepper and salt 
 
SHE 
 
 8G5 
 
 SHE 
 
 over them, pour a pint of broth round them, 
 and bake in a well-heated oven. Baste fre- 
 quently. Take up the hearts, and keep them 
 hot. Skim and strain the gravy, boil it quickly 
 till it is reduced one-half, thicken with a spoon- 
 ful or brown thickening, and flavour with store 
 sauce. Place the hearts on a dish, strain the 
 sauce over, and serve. Send red currant jelly 
 to table as an accompaniment. If liked, an 
 onion can be stewed in the gravy with the 
 hearts. Time to bake, two hours. Probable 
 cost, sheep's hearts, lOd. each. Sufficient, two 
 hearts for three persons. 
 
 SHEEP'S HEARTS, BAKED (another way). 
 
 Stuff the hearts as before, cover with bacon, 
 put them into boiling water, and simmer gently 
 until done enough. Take them up, let them 
 cool, sprinkle a little pepper and salt over them, 
 and cover each one with good pastry. Brush 
 them over with yolk of egg, and sprinkle ver- 
 micelli loosely upon them. Bake in a well- 
 heated oven. When the pastry is done enough, 
 serve the hearts on a hot dish, and send brown 
 gravy to table in a tureen. Time to boil the 
 hearts, about three-quarters of an hour. Prob- 
 able cost, lOd. each. Sufficient, two hearts for 
 three persons. 
 
 SHEEP'S KIDNEYS, BROILED. 
 
 Cut the kidneys in half lengthwise. Skin 
 them, score them a little, sprinkle salt and 
 cayenne over them, dip them in clarified butter, 
 and run a skewer through them to keep them 
 from curlin? on the gridiron. Broil over a 
 clear fire. Take out the skewers, and serve the 
 kidneys on a hot dish with the hollow part 
 uppermost. Garnish the dish with parsley. 
 Time to broil the kidneys, eight to twelve 
 minutes, according to size. Probable cost, 4d. 
 to 6d. each (see Mutton Kidneys). 
 
 SHEEP'S KIDNEYS, BROILED, SUPERIOR. 
 
 Broil the kidneys as before. Lay them on a 
 dish with the hollow part uppermost, and put 
 in the centre of each a tea-spoonful of savoury 
 butter prepared as follows. Put two ounces of 
 fresh butter into a plate, and work into it with 
 a silver or wooden spoon a dessert-spoonful of 
 finely-chopped parsley, half a tea-spoonful of 
 green onions chopped small, the juice of half 
 a lemon, and a little pepper and salt. Serve 
 immediately. If preferred, a tea-spoonful of 
 tartar sauce (see Tabtar Sauce) may be put 
 into the hollow of the kidney, and Harvey's or 
 Worcester sauce may be served with it. Time 
 to broil the kidneys, eight to twelve minutes. 
 JProbable cost, kidneys, 4d. to 6d. each. 
 
 SHEEP'S KIDNEYS, BROILED (M. Ude's recipe). 
 
 Take some kidneys that have been kept for 
 a while, cut them in two, and remove the thin 
 skin that covers them, use a small skewer to 
 keep them open, in imitation of two shells; 
 powder them over with a little pepper and salt, 
 dip them into a little melted butter, and broil 
 them just as you are going to serve up. Broil 
 first the side that you have cut open ; when you 
 broil the other side, the whole of the gravy 
 issues to the upper part. Mind when you take 
 them off the fire that the gravy does not drop 
 off. Have some parsley chopped very fine and 
 mixed with fresh butter, this juice of a lemott. 
 
 pepper, and salt; put a little of the mixture 
 over each kidney, and send up to table in a hot 
 dish. N.B. — Kidneys are an excellent breakfast 
 for sportsmen, but are seldom sent up for dinner. 
 They must be eaten directly, as they lose their 
 goodness by waiting. They have also the dis- 
 advantage of being uneatable if they are too 
 much done ; and he who cannot eat meat under- 
 done should not have the^n at his table. 
 
 SHEEP'S KIDNEYS, STEWED. 
 
 Skin and halve half a dozen sheep's kidneys, 
 and cut them into slices a quarter of an inch 
 thick. Fry these in butter till they are lightly 
 browned, dredge a little flOUr oyer them, pour 
 in a, glassful of sherry, and add a tea-spoonful 
 of chopped parsley, a finely-minced shallot, 
 three or four mushrooms chopped small, a teai- 
 spoonful of lemon-juice, and a little pepper and 
 salt. Stir the preparation over the fire for five 
 or six minutes, and serve very hot. Time, 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost, kidneys, 4d. to 
 6d. each. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 SHEEP'S KIDNEYS, WITH CHAMPAGNE. 
 
 Take six or twelve kidneys, according to the 
 quantity that you wish to cook; remove the 
 skins, and slice the kidneys the thickness and size 
 of a halfpenny ; have a little piece of lean bacon 
 cut into small squares ; fry these in an omelet- 
 pan with a very small quantity of butter ; when 
 the bacon is of a good colour, put in the kidneys, 
 taking care to move the pan frequently to fry 
 them equally; when they are done, strew over 
 them a little salt and pepper, some parsley 
 chopped very fine, a very small piece of shallot, 
 well chopped also, and dredge over all a littl^ 
 flour ; stir up with a wooden spoon, then moisten 
 with a glassful of white champagne or chablia 
 (neither Madeira nor sherry), which should be 
 very hot, but do not let it boil, otherwise the 
 kidneys will not be eatable; add a little lemon 
 and a little cayenne, and observe that such 
 dishes should be well seasoned. Serve the kid- 
 neys first, in a dish with a hollow spoon, and 
 let the sauce have one boil to cook the flour; 
 mind that the sauce be judiciously thick to add 
 to the meat, but not too thick. 
 
 SHEEP'S LIVER (4 la Fran^aise). 
 
 Cut some slices of liver half an inch thick, 
 and lay them neatly in a stewpan slightly but- 
 tered; sprinkle pepper and salt over the upper 
 sides. Slice two ounces of fat bacon as finely 
 as possible, chop a tea-spoonful of parsley and 
 a small shallot very fine, and spread them evenly 
 over the liver ; cover the stewpan closely, and 
 set it on a fire so moderate that it will draw 
 out all the juices without simmering — the least 
 approach to this hardens the liver and spoils it. 
 If the range is too hot, set the stewpan on an 
 iron stand. When the liver has thus stood for 
 an hour and a half it will be done. Take it up, 
 put it on a hot dish, and cover it closely whilst 
 you boil the bacon and the gravy together for 
 two minutes ; then pour the sauce oyer the 
 liver, and serve immediately. Liver cooked 
 thus is digestible, and can be eaten by persons 
 who could not venture upon it when it is fried. 
 
 SHEEP'S LIVER, FRIED. 
 
 Soak the liver, and cut it into slices the third 
 of an inch thick. Dry each slice thoroughly- 
 
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 *ith a soft cloth, flour it well, and sprinkle 
 pepper and salt with a little chopped parsley 
 over it. Heat a little dripping in the frying- 
 pan, put in ~ the liver, and fry it very gently 
 till tender. Turn it occasionally, that it may 
 be equally cooked. When done enough, lift it 
 upon a hot dish, and pour ofLthe fat from the 
 frying-mn. Mix a table-spoonful of flour 
 smoothly with a little cold water, add half a 
 pint of boiling stock or water, and pour the 
 mixture into the pan. Stir briskly till it boils, 
 and add a little browning, a spoonful of store 
 sauce, and a little pepper and salt. Let it boil 
 a minute or two, then strain it over the liver 
 in the dish. Serve very hot. If liked, a large 
 onion may be sliced and fried with the liver 
 and laid upon it in the dish. Time, about half 
 an hour. Probable cost of liver, 9d. per pound. 
 Suflicient, one pound of liver for two or three 
 persons. 
 
 SHEEP'S MINCE. 
 
 Wash and soak a sheep's heart and liver. 
 Cleanse them thoroughly, plunge them into boil- 
 ing water, and simmer gently about half an 
 hour. Take them up, let them cool, and mince 
 finely. Dissolve a small lump of butter in a 
 saucepan, work into it a little flour to make 
 a smooth paste, and stir it briskly over the fire 
 until it is lightly browned. Mix with it as 
 much of the liquor in which the liver and heart 
 were boiled as will make sauce of the consist- 
 ency of thick cream. Add pepper and salt and 
 a dessert-spoonful of chopped onion. Put in 
 the mince, and simmer all gently together until 
 done enough. Stir in a table-spoonful of mush- 
 room ketchup or any good store sauce, and 
 serve very hot. The remains of sheep's heart 
 and liver may be served in this way. Time to 
 simmer the mince, about half an hour. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 SHEEP'S TAILS. 
 
 Throw the tails into boiling water for fifteen 
 minutes. Drain them, and put them into a 
 stewpan with as much boiling stock as will 
 cover them. Let the stock boil, skim carefully, 
 and put into it a bunch of sweet herbs, two or 
 three onions, a pinch of mixed spice, and a little 
 pepper and salt. Draw the saucepan to the side 
 of the fire, and let the tails simmer gently for 
 three or four hours. When done enough, drain 
 and bone them, and press them between two 
 dishes till cold. Let the gravy cool, remove the 
 fat from the top, strain it, and boil it quickly 
 till it is considerably 'reduced. Cut the ends 
 off the tails, and simmer the latter in the re- 
 duced gravy till heated throughout. Dish 
 them in a circle, and put into the centre sorrel, 
 or onion, or lentil, or haricot, or peas puree 
 {see Puk^e), or brown cucumber sauce, and send 
 hrown gravy or tomato sauce to table with 
 them. French cooks, instead of stewing; the 
 tails in stock, would braize them along with 
 slices of bacon, and equal quantities of mirepoix 
 (see Mirepoix) and veal stock. Time to stew the 
 tails, four hours. Probable cost uncertain, 
 sheep's tails being seldom sold. 
 
 SHEEP'S TAILS AND KIDNEYS. 
 
 Blanch, trim, and stew the tails, as before, 
 in as much stock as will cover them, and stew 
 
 with them a carrot, an onion stuck with two 
 cloves, and a small bunch of sweet herbs. When 
 the tails are done enough, take them up, and 
 place them in a circle on a hot dish ; put in the 
 centre an equal number of broiled kidneys,, and 
 serve in a tureen a, sauce prepared as follows. 
 Strain the gravy in which the tails were stewed, 
 thicken with flour and butter, boil it till it is 
 thick enough to coat the spoon, and stir into 
 it the juice of half a, lemon. Time, three or 
 four hours to stew the tails. 
 
 SHEEP'S TAILS, BROILED. 
 
 Blanch, stew, press, and trim the tails as 
 before. When quite cold, brush them over with 
 oil or beaten egg, and dip them in bread- 
 crumbs. Let them lie a few minutes, then egg 
 and bread-crumb them again. Broil them over 
 a clear fire, or fry them until they are brightly 
 browned, dish them in a circle, and serve with 
 ravigote or Valois sauce, or with a sauce made 
 with the stock in which they were stewed, 
 thickened with brown roux, and flavoured 
 with lemon-juice. Sheep's tails and sheep's 
 tongues (an equal quantity of each) may be 
 stewed and broiled together. The tongues will 
 require to be skinned and split in halves. Time, 
 four hours to stew the tails, a few minutes to 
 broil them. 
 
 SHEEP'S TAILS, WITH PUREE OF GREEN PEAS. 
 
 Lay the tails in water to disgorge the blood; 
 then blanch them, and braize them in an old 
 braize; otherwise they are to be seasoned with 
 carrots, onions, spices, etc. When done, drain 
 and glaze them. Put the puree of green peas 
 under them; do the same if you use puree of 
 sorrel. ' 
 
 SHEEP'S TAILS, WITH RICE. 
 
 Put three or four sheep's tails into boiling 
 water, and let them boil for a quarter of an 
 hour. Take them up, and lay them side by side 
 in a stewpan, with slices of bacon under and 
 over them. Put with them a sliced onion, a 
 scraped carrot, a bunch of plarsley, a sprig of 
 thyme, a bay-leaf, two cloves, and a dozen pep- 
 percorns ; pour upon them as much stock as will 
 barely cover them. Put the lid on the sauce- 
 pan, and stew the tails very gently until done 
 enough. Boil separately in nicely-flavoured 
 stock a quarter of a pound of well-washed rice. 
 Put Half of this at the bottom of a dish, lay the 
 tails upon it, and cover them with the other 
 half. Strain the gravy, thicken with brown 
 thickening, add a little salt if .required, and 
 send it to table in a tureen. Time to simmer, 
 the tails, four hours. 
 SHEEP'S TONGUES (au Gratin). 
 
 Sheep's tongues may be bought at the tripe 
 shop either fresh or partially boiled. If fresh, 
 they will need to be soaked in salt and water 
 for a couple of hours, and then boiled for two 
 hours. If they have been partially boiled, they 
 will not require to be cooked more than half or 
 three-quarters of an hour, or they may be eaten 
 cold. Boil three or four tongues in as much 
 stock as will cover them, and add a bunch of 
 sweet herbs, a carrot, an onion stuck with two 
 cloves, and a little salt and pepper. When the 
 skin will peel off, take them up and skin them. 
 Make as much good veal forcemeat as will cover 
 
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 the bottom of the dish on which the tongues are 
 to be served. Mix a little minced bacon with 
 this, and moisten with^he raw yolks of two 
 eggs and a little of the hot liquor in which the 
 tongues were boiled. Make it hot, spread it on 
 a hot dish, drain off any particles of fat that 
 may float on the surface, and lay the sheep's 
 tongues, boiled, skinned, and split in halves, 
 on the forcemeat. Strain the gravy, pour a little 
 of it over the tongues, and serve the rest in a 
 tureen. Sometimes the forcemeat is soaked in 
 the liquor and rubbed through a hair sieve, and 
 the tongues are gently stewed in the sauce for 
 half an hour, then served on a hot dish with 
 the sauce poured over and round them. Time 
 to boil the tongues, two hours. Probable cost, 
 4d. each. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 SHEEP'S TONGUES, BROILED. 
 
 Soak three or four sheep's tongues in brine 
 for a couple of hours, and boil them till the 
 skin will peel off. Skin them, split them in 
 halves lengthwise, put them into a stewpan, 
 and pour over them as much stock as will barely 
 cover them. Simmer with them an onion, a 
 carrot, three or four heads of celery, a bunch 
 of parsley, and a few mushrooms. Add pepper 
 and salt if required. When they are quite ten- 
 der (they will be so in about half an hour), take 
 them up and drain them, boil the gravy quickly 
 for a few minutes, brush the tongues with it, 
 and sprinkle seasoned bread-crumbs thickly over 
 them. Broil over a clear fire, and when one 
 side is done turn them upon the other. Serve 
 on a hot dish : mix the strained juice of half 
 a lemon with the sauce, and pour it over the 
 tongues. 'rtBte to broil the tongues, a quarter 
 of an hour. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. each. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 SHEEP'S TONGUES, BROILED (another way). 
 
 Soak four tongues in salt and water for two 
 hours, and boil them gently in stock till the 
 skin will peel off easily. Skin them, let them 
 get cold, and split them in halves lengthwise. 
 Make a savoury mixture thus. Chop sii mush- 
 rooms, and mix with them three ounces of lean 
 ham cut into dice, a salt-spoonful of grated 
 lemon-rind, a table-spoonful of chopped pars- 
 ley, a pinch of powdered thyme, and a little 
 salt and cayenne; a little piece of garlic may 
 be added if liked. Sprinkle this mixture on the 
 inside of the tongues, put them in their original 
 position, cover with oiled papers, and broil over 
 a gentle fire. If the papers are at all unsightly 
 in appearance, remove them. If not, serve the 
 tongues in the papers. Time to broil, a quarter 
 of an hour. Probable cost, tongues, 4d. to 6d. 
 each. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 SHEEP'S TONGUES, CURED. 
 
 Put fresh tongues into a pickle such as is 
 used for beef and ox-tongues, and let them 
 remain for four days. Take them up, wash 
 them, put them into boiling water, and simmer 
 gently until done enough. Skin them, let them 
 get cold, split them in halves without dividing 
 them, and serve cold for breakfast. Mustard or 
 tartar sauce may be served with them. If there 
 is no beef pickle at hand, wash the tongues, and 
 rub into each one a table-spoonful of salt, a 
 tea-spoonful of sugar, and a tea-spoonful of 
 yinegar. Turn and rub them with the pickle 
 
 every day for four days, then proceed as before-. 
 Time to boil the tongues, two hours. Probable 
 cost, 4d. each. Sufficient, one tongue for one 
 person. 
 
 SHEEP'S TONGUES, GALANTINE OF. 
 
 Put eight sheep's tongues (first cutting the 
 gristle and small bones on) into a stew- 
 pan with just sufficient water to cover, add a 
 sliced onion and a tablespoonful of salt. Boil 
 slowly till perfectly tender, then peel them, and 
 lay them one on the other in a round mould 
 until it is full; add plenty of pepper and a 
 little salt, and fill the crevices with slices of 
 hard-boiled egg ; add about half a cupful of 
 good stock into which two tea-spoontuls of 
 gelatine have been dissolved and boiled. Place 
 a plate over, then a weight, and when cold turn 
 out and garnish with parsley. Probable cost, 
 3s. ^ 
 
 SHEEP'S TONGUES, LARDED AND ROASTED. 
 
 Soak and boil four tongues as for broiling. 
 Skin them, and lard the upper portion evenly 
 with thin strips of fat bacon. Wrap each 
 tongue separately in a, sheet of oiled paper, tie 
 them to a spit, and roast them before a clear 
 fire. When done enough, arrange them on a 
 hot dish, garnish with cut lemon, and send good 
 brown gravy to table in a tureen. Time to 
 roast the tongues, an hour and a half. Prob- 
 able cost, 4d. to 6d. each. Sufficient, three or 
 four tongues for a dish. 
 
 SHEEP'S TONGUES, STEWED. 
 
 Soak three sheep's tongues in salt and water 
 for two hours, boil them in stock till the skin 
 will peel off easily, and skin them. Let them 
 get cold, then cut them into slices the third of 
 an inch thick. Take half a pint of thick brown 
 sauce nicely seasoned and flavoured. Dip the 
 slices into this, and arrange them in a circle on 
 a dish. Sprinkle finely-grated bread-crumbs 
 thickly over them, pour a little oiled butter 
 upon them, and brown them in the oven or 
 before the fire. Pour the sauce into the centre 
 of the circle, and garnish the dish with toasted 
 sippets. If brown gravy is not at hand, it may 
 be made as follows. Put half a pint of stock 
 made from bones into a saucepan with a mod- 
 erate-sized onion or two shallots, a scraped 
 carrot, a bunch of parsley, a clove, and three 
 or four outer sticks of celery. Simmer all 
 gently together for an hour. Strain the gravy, 
 add pepper and salt if required, thicken it with 
 a little brown thickening, stir a glass of port 
 into it, and it will be ready for use. Time to^ 
 boil the tongues, two hours. Probable cost, 
 4d. to 6d. each. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 SHEEP'S TONGUES, WITH CABBAGE LET- 
 TUCES. 
 
 The tongues are first of all to be braised. 
 Take » dozen and a half good cabbage- 
 lettuces, wash them very clean, and blanch 
 them. When they are cold, and you have 
 squeezed all the water out of them, ofjen them 
 in two, take off the stalks, powder a little salt 
 and pepper over the lettuces; shut them, and 
 give them a good form ; place them in a stewpan 
 and surround with layers of bacon ; moisten 
 with a little braise, or anything to give them a 
 
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 good taste ; otherwise take the " pot-top," with a 
 Ettle broth and salt. When the lettuces are 
 quite done, drain them, and squeeze them in 
 a cloth to extract the grease. Dish them in 
 rosettes, first a tongue, then a lettuce, and so 
 on successively. Put a large tongue in the 
 centre to improve the look of the rosette. An- 
 other time cut the tongues in two, and dish 
 them miroton way — that is, one half of a tongue, 
 and lettuce, alternately. In this case, put mixed 
 vegetables in the centre, and cover both the 
 tongues and the lettuce with Spanish sauce. 
 
 SHEEP'S TONGUES, WITH TURNIPS. 
 
 Take eight tongues of an equal size ; let them 
 disgorge in a little water and flour, and next 
 blanch them. When thoroughly blanched, put 
 them in a stewpan to braize. In case you should 
 have a haricot of beef, or of mutton, or other 
 meat, they will all equally answer the purpose 
 for sheep's tongues : when the latter are done, 
 peel them, and cut them in two. Dish them 
 miroton way, and cover with the sauce of the 
 haricot, the turnips of course being put in the 
 middle. It is customary in French cookery to 
 call anything made with turnips haricot. 
 
 SHEEP'S TROTTERS. 
 
 Sheep's trotters may generally be obtained 
 at the tripe shops cleaned and partially boiled. 
 When it is necessary to clean them at home, 
 remove the wool from the hoofs, singe away the 
 hairs, and put the trotters into boiling water 
 for five minutes. Clean and scrape them well, 
 and cut an inch off the end of the foot, includ- 
 ing the hoofs, and carefully remove a dark 
 curly-looking substance which grows between 
 the divisions of the hoof. Sheep's trotters are 
 usually sold in sets or " gangs " ; they are whole- 
 some and nourishing, and good jelly may be 
 made from them. 'They should be kept soak- 
 ing in cold water two or three hours before they 
 are to be boiled. The liquor in which they are 
 boiled will make excellent stock or jelly {see also 
 Mutton Tbottebs). 
 
 SHEEP'S TROTTERS (k la PouleHe). 
 
 Take twelve feet, already scalded and cleaned. 
 Boil them quickly for a quarter of an hour, then 
 remove the large bone from each by holding the 
 foot in the left hand and giving the bone a 
 sharp jerk with the right. Shred four ounces of 
 suet, and put it into a saucepan with two sliced 
 onions, a scraped carrot, a sprig of thyme, and 
 a bay-leaf. Stir these ingredients over a brisk 
 fiire for five minutes, then, beat in two table- 
 spoonfuls of flour, and when this is smooth add 
 gradually five pints of water or stock. Stir the 
 liquor till it boils, put in the feet, and let them 
 simmer till quite tender. Take them up, and 
 drain them on a sieve. Put four ounces of 
 butter on a plate, and work smoothly into it 
 with the point of a knife a tea-spoonful of flour, 
 a tea-spoonful of salt, a quarter of a tea-spoonful 
 of pepper, and a little grated nutmeg. Heat a 
 gill of milk in a saucepan. Stir the butter in 
 this till it is melted, and add the yolks of two 
 eggs which have been beaten up with a cupful 
 of milk or cream. Stir the sauce over the fire, 
 and as it thickens add a table-spoonful of 
 Strained lemon- juice. It must on no account 
 boil after the eggs are added. Heat the trotters 
 in the sauce, put them on a dish, pour the sauce 
 
 oyer, and serve. Garnish the dish with fried 
 sippets. If liked, a ^w mushrooms or a little 
 chopped parsley can be put into the sauce. 
 Time to boil the trotters, three hours and a 
 half. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. 
 
 SHEEP'S TROTTERS, BROILED. 
 
 Boil the trotters as before (see Sheep's Teot- 
 TEEB, a la Poulette). When tender, take out 
 the bones, and let the feet get cold. Cut them 
 into neat slices, dip them in clarified butter, 
 then into finely-grated bread-crumbs, and broil 
 over a clear fire. Serve with sharp sauce. 
 Time, three hours and a half to boil the trotters. 
 
 SHEEP'S TROTTERS, JELLY FROM. 
 
 Jelly made from sheep's trotters is wholesome, 
 nourishing, and inexpensive ; it is particularly 
 suited for invalids and children. Put four 
 sets of sheep's trotters into cold water, and 
 let them soak for four hours. Cleanse perfectly, 
 and put them into a stewpan with a pound of 
 lean beef, a crust of bread toasted all over to 
 a bright brown, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of 
 thyme, a small onion, a blade of mace, and half 
 a tea-spoonful of peppercorns. Pour upon them 
 two quarts of cold water, and let the liquor 
 simmer gently by the side of the fire for six 
 or eight hours, or until it is considerably re- 
 duced, and will stiffen when cold. Pour it off, 
 strain it through a jelly-bag, and put it in a 
 cool place to stiffen. Time, eight hours. 
 
 SHEEP'S TROTTERS, MARINADED. 
 
 Boil a set of trotters according to the direc- 
 tions already given (see Sheep's Tbottebs, a la 
 Poulette). Drain them, let them get cold, and 
 cut them up into neat pieces convenient for 
 serving. Put them into a basin, sprinkle a 
 little salt and pepper over them, and pour upon 
 them two table-spoonfuls of vinegar and one 
 of oil. Move them about, turn them occasion- 
 ally, and let them lie in this marinade for an 
 hour. Half an hour before thoy are to be se?rved, 
 drain the pieces from the pickle, dip them 
 separately in frying-batter, and fry them in hot 
 fat till they are lightly and equally browned 
 all over. If preferred, instead of being dipped 
 in batter and fried, they may be rolled in bread- 
 crumbs and grilled. Dish them on a napkin, 
 and send tomato sauce or sauce piquant to table 
 with them. The frying batter may be made as 
 follows. Put five ounces of flour into a bowl, 
 and beat it up with a pinch of salt and a 
 quarter of a pint of water. Break two eggs, 
 and separate the whites from the yolks. Beat 
 the latter with two table-spoonfuls of Lucca oil. 
 stir the mixture into the flour, and beat it till 
 it is smooth and thick. Ten minutes before the 
 batter is wanted, whisk the whites of the eggs, 
 and add them to it. It should be as thick as 
 cream. A spoonful or two of water may be 
 added if required. This batter is better if made 
 an hour or two before it is to be used. Time to 
 boil the trotters, three hours and a half; to fry 
 the pieces, about ten minutes. Probable cost. 
 Is. Sufficient for a small dish. 
 
 SHEEP'S TROTTERS, PATE OF. 
 
 Take a coarse earthen pate-dish which has a 
 closely-fitting cover. Procure three sets of 
 sheep's trotters already cleaned and parboiled. 
 
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 and cut each one into three pieces. Boil till 
 tender, and pack them closely in the patc-dish, 
 and to season them, sprinkle between the layers 
 a little pepper, sa^t, and powdered spice, to- 
 gether with a moderate proportion of minced 
 onion, chopped parsley, powdered thyme, bay- 
 leaves, and cloves. Place the cover on the dish, 
 and in order to prevent the escape of the steam, 
 fasten it down with a coarse paste made of flour 
 and water. Put the pate in a gentle oven for 
 five or six hours, or if it can be done let it be 
 put in a baker's oven after the bread is drawn, 
 and remain there all night. If gently cooked 
 the feet will be reduced to jelly, and will con- 
 stitute an excellent dish, which may be served 
 hot or cold. If the oven is too much heated, 
 the feet will be burnt up, dry, and good for- 
 nothing. Time to bake, five or six hours. 
 Probable cost, 28. Sufficient for six or eight 
 persons. 
 
 SHEEP'S TROTTERS, SIMPLE WAY OF SERVING. 
 
 Stew the trotters gently for three or four 
 hours till the bones will come out. They may 
 either be boiled iu water, or in a sauce made 
 according to the directions already given in 
 Sheep's Teottees A LA PouLETTB. When tender 
 drain them, let them get cold, cut them in 
 slices, and serve as they are on a dish. Garnish 
 with parsley, and send oil and vinegar to table 
 with them. 
 
 SHEEP'S TROTTERS, STUFFED, 
 
 Take some sheep's trotters, as in the recipe 
 Sheep's Trotters a la Poulette, and stew them 
 in the same manner, but do not let them be 
 overdone, as they are tq^be stuffed with a force- 
 meat, which could not be done in the latter 
 case. Introduce forcemeat for quenelles in the 
 room of the bones. When the trotters are well 
 stuffed, put them between layers of bacon, and 
 moisten them with a poele (see Poelb). Stew 
 them for half an hour only, on account of the 
 forcemeat. Drain them, and cover with a sauce 
 well seasoned, either white or brown, according 
 to taste. As they are to be served whole, when 
 you bone them, mind you do not injure the 
 skin, or they would not hold the forcemeat 
 that you must put in. This dish is ex- 
 cellent, as well for the taste as for health. 
 It is particularly good for weak stomachs. The 
 sheep's trotters are very good likewise, when 
 they have been done as above, fried iu the 
 following way. When they are cold, add some 
 of the sauce to them all round; then dip them 
 in crumbs of bread, and in a batter and crumbs 
 again; fry them of a good colour, and serve 
 with tomato sauce. 
 SHEEP'S TROTTERS, WITH CUCUMBER. 
 
 Take two sets of sheep's trotters, and boil 
 them till tender. Let them get cold, and divide 
 each one into three pieces. Boil them again to 
 make them hot. Peel one large or two small 
 cucumbers, which cut into dice, and put these 
 into a basin with a table-spoonful of salt and 
 two table-spoonfuls of vinegar. Let the cucum- 
 ber lie for an hour, drain it, and put it into a 
 saucepan with two ounces of fresh butter, a tea- 
 spoonful of powdered sugar, a bunch of parsley, 
 two or three young onions, a pinch of grated 
 nutmeg, a pinch of cayenne, and, if liked, a 
 piece of garlic the size of a pea. Simmer these 
 
 ingredients very gently for about half an hour. 
 Pour off the butter, and in its place put a spoon- 
 ful or two of white sauce, or, failing this, of 
 broth thickened with flour. Simmer a few 
 minutes- longer, add the yolks of three eggs 
 beaten up with a "quarter of a pint of milk or 
 cream, and stir the sauce till it thickens, but on 
 no account allow it to boil. Add a dessert- 
 spoonful of lemon-juice, put the trotters on a 
 dish, pour the sauce over, and serve. Time to 
 make the sauce, one hour. Sufficient for three 
 or four persons. 
 
 SHELL FISH, BUISSON, OR THECKET OF (a 
 
 pretty supper dish). 
 Pour lobsters, a pint of crayfish, and a pint 
 of prawns are needed for this dish. Take a stale 
 loaf of bread, trim away the crust, and cut the 
 crumb to a square block. Hang a lobster on 
 each side of this, with the tail resting on the 
 top of the block and the head iu the dish ; cover 
 the empty spaces with parsley, and upon this 
 lay crayfish and prawns. Put prawns and pars- 
 ley round the buisson, and fasten three or four 
 crayfish on the top of it with silver skewers. 
 
 SHELL-FISH, EDIBLE. 
 
 The chief of these is the oyster — full particu- 
 lars regarding which will be found under the 
 heading Otstee. It may be observed here that 
 oysters are more digestible uncooked than 
 cooked, and more palatable with lemon-juice 
 than vinegar. Both humanity and good taste 
 dictate that they should be eaten as quickly as 
 possible after they are opened. 
 
 The scallop (Pecten maximus) is an edible 
 shell-fish not to be despised.' Broiled and 
 stuffed with forcemeat, and served iu its own 
 shells, it not only forms an ornament to the 
 table, but a pleasing variety among the fish. 
 Everyone knows the shell of this fish, which 
 used to be worn on the hat or coat of pilgrims 
 as a mark that they had crossed the sea for 
 the purpose of paying their devotions in the 
 Holy Land. Scallops lie at the bottom of deep 
 water in beds, from which they are dredged up. 
 
 The mussel {Mytilus edulis) is another of the 
 mollusca that furnish a quota of food for the 
 population of these islands. It is not often met 
 with on the tables of the rich, but it is to be 
 seen iu the London markets and in the streets 
 where people partake of such luxuries on foot. 
 It was estimated by Professor Forbes that no 
 less than four hundred thousand mussels were 
 consumed annually in Edinburgh. They are 
 not so easily digested as oysters, and are gener- 
 ally cooked before being eaten. 
 
 At times the common mussel is poisonous. 
 This poisonous effect has been attributed to 
 the presence of copper, and in some instances 
 this metal has been detected in the fish which 
 caused symptoms of poisoning; iu other cases, 
 however, chemistry can give no further expla- 
 nation of the catastrophe than that " it is prob- 
 able that there is an animal poison present." 
 The symptoms produced by mussel-poisoning, 
 are described by Dr. Taylor as uneasiness and 
 sense of weight at the pit of the stomach, numb- 
 ness of the extremities, heat and constriction in 
 the mouth and throat, thirst, cramps ; or with 
 swelling of the eyelids, heat and itching of the 
 skin, with nettle-rash eruption; also vomiting 
 
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 and diarrhoea, with colic. Emetics, followed 
 by sal volatile or stimulants, would be appro- 
 priate treatment. 
 
 Before using mussels, let them lie for some 
 hours in cold water. Scatter in the water a 
 table-spoonful of oatmeal; put the fish into a 
 saucepan without water, and when the shells 
 are well opened the mussels are done. Serve 
 hot; eat with vinegar and pepper and bread 
 and butter. 
 
 A side-dish of mussels may be made in this 
 way: — Remove the shells, fry the fish in butter 
 mixed with chopped parsley, pepper, and salt. 
 Serve with lemon and brown bread and butter. 
 
 Another favourite bivalve is the cockle. This 
 shell-fish is very abundant on most parts of our 
 coast, especially where there is sand, and upon 
 the banks of estuaries. It is highly esteemed 
 both by rich and poor, and- by some is preferred 
 to the oyster. It is equally good raw or cooked. 
 It may be boiled or roasted, eaten alone, or as 
 sauce to other fish. It may be eaten with im- 
 punity in almost any numbers, and has not un- 
 frequently staved off the pressure of starvation 
 amongst the poor of our coasts. By culture 
 it attains to a considerable size. 
 
 One of our neglected edible shell-fish is the 
 limpet (Patella vulgaris). It is very abundant 
 on all our coasts wherever there are rocks, and 
 it can be easily procured by the aid of a strong 
 knife. It is a tough morsel, but nutritious 
 withal. The people of Ireland think it a deli- 
 cacy, and a considerable consumption of lim- 
 pets as articles of food occurs throughout the 
 country. 
 
 Next come periwinkles {Littorina littoria), 
 " pinpatches," as they are called on the coast 
 lof Suffolk. On the banks of some of our 
 estuaries they occur in myriads. They are 
 looked upon aB a poor man's luxury, but may 
 be recommended to the notice of everybody. 
 They should be bought alive, boiled, and whilst 
 hot the creatures should be picked out of the 
 shell with a pin, and eaten with vinegar and 
 pepper. They are digestible and nutritious, 
 and by no means to be despised. 
 
 The clam is a great favourite in the United 
 States. The business of digging clams is en- 
 gaged in by a large number of persons on the 
 North-American coasts. There are two varieties 
 — the hard-shelled and the soft-shelled. They 
 are eaten largfely in spring, when they are in 
 the best condition. Clams are much prized by 
 persons residing at a distance from the sea- 
 coast, and they are frequently sent into the 
 interior, where they meet with a ready sale, as 
 they can be sold at a very low price. 
 
 SHEPHERDS' PIE. 
 
 Grease a deep baking-dish with some of the 
 melted fat from a two-pound tin of beef. Boil 
 or steam four pounds of potatoes, mash and 
 season them, and put them an inch thick at the 
 bottom and sides of the dish. Then put a layer 
 of half a pound of fried onions all over the 
 potato layer. Mince the meat, add the jelly 
 from it, and half a pint of canned tomatoes, 
 with a little stock or plain gravy of any sort. 
 Pile this in the centre of the dish; put the 
 remainder of the potatoes thickly on the top ; 
 rough the surface with a fork, and bake until 
 
 well-browned in a moderate oven, i.e. for about 
 three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 to Is. 8d. 
 
 SHERBET. 
 
 Sherbet is a favourite beverage in the East, 
 universally used among wealthy Mohammedans, 
 to whom the use of wine is forbidden by the 
 Koran. It consists of water, the juice of lemon, 
 orange, or other fruits, with sugar, flavoured 
 further with honey, spices, and even perfumes. 
 Its pleasant acidity blended with sweetness ren- 
 ders it well calculated to assuage thirst in a 
 warm climate. The poorer classes who cannot 
 afford to have it so rich, drink water prepared 
 with a little sugar and fruit juice. In India 
 _this is carried about in goats' skins for sale. 
 
 SHERBET CREAM. 
 
 Beat the yolks of three fresh eggs, and mix 
 them with two pints of cream. Add a tea- 
 spoonful of orange-flower water, or rose-water, 
 and stir the cream without ceasing over a gentle 
 fire until it begins to thicken. Pour it out at 
 once, sweeten, and stir it till cold. Freeze in 
 the usual way. Time, about a quarter of an 
 hour to boil the cream. Sufficient for two pints 
 and a quarter. 
 
 SHERBET, FOR PUNCH. 
 
 The quality of punch depends in a great 
 measure upon the way the sherbet is mixed. 
 The different flavouring ingredients ought to 
 be blended thoroughly before the spirit or wine 
 is put in, and unless this is done the punch will 
 lose in delicacy of flavour. The quantity of 
 wine and spirit used will, of course, vary ac- 
 cording to taste. Generally two lemons and 
 half a pound of sugar will be sufficient for four 
 quarts of punch. To make the sherbet, rub 
 half a. pound of fine sugar in lumps upon two 
 large fresh lemons until all the yellow part is 
 taken off. Eemove the white bitter skin of the 
 lemons, throw away the pips, and cut the pulp 
 into slices with a silver knife. Put these upon 
 the sugar, and bruise all well together with a 
 wooden spoon. If the lemons are very acid, a 
 little of the juice may be set aside. When the 
 pulp and sugar are well rubbed together, pour 
 a little boiling water over them, and stir until 
 the sugar is dissolved. Let the syrup cool, 
 strain it, and add wine and spirit till the punch 
 is of the requisite strength. Sometimes the 
 rind and juice of a Seville orange are used to 
 make the sherbet, as well as two lemons. 
 SHERBET, ICE. 
 
 Take half a pound of refined sugar in lumps ; 
 rub these upon the rind of three lemons until 
 the yellow part is taken off. Put the sugar 
 into a bowl, and strain over it the juice of two 
 oranges and of the lemons. Add a pint of cold 
 spring water, and stir the mixture until the 
 sugar is quite dissolved. Freeze in the usual 
 way, and serve in glasses. Probable cost, lOd. 
 Sufficient for a pint and a half of ice. 
 SHERBET, LEMON. 
 
 Rub one pound and a ualf of loaf sugar upon 
 nine fresh lemons until the yellow part is taken 
 off. Put the sugar into a bowl, squeeze upon it 
 the juice of the lemons, and add a quart of 
 water. Stir the liquor till the sugar is dis- 
 solved, strain, and freeze as for ice cream. 
 
SHE 
 
 811 
 
 SHO 
 
 SHERBET, PERSIAN. 
 
 {See Pebsian Shebbet — a refreshing summer 
 beverage.) 
 
 SHERBET POWDER. 
 
 Eub half a pound of loaf sugar upon the rind 
 of a lemon till the yellow part is taken off. 
 Crush the sugar to powder, and mix intimately 
 with it four ounces of tartaric acid and four 
 ounces of bicarbonate of soda. Rub the mix- 
 ture through a fine sieve; put it into a dry 
 bottle, and keep it well corked until wanted. 
 If liked, forty or fifty drops of essence of lemon 
 may be used instead of the lemon-rind. The 
 powder must be taken up with a dry tea-spoon. 
 Sufficient for one pound of sherbet. A tea- 
 spoonful of this powder stirred into a tumbler 
 of water will make a refreshing summer drink. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. per pound. 
 
 SHERBET, RHUBARB (a pleasant summer beverage). 
 
 Take six or eight sticks of ripe red rhubarb. 
 Wash it well, and without skinning it cut it up 
 into short lengths. Put it into a saucepan with 
 a quart of water, and let it boil till the flavour 
 is extracted. Rub the rind of a fresh lemon 
 upon three ounces of fine sugar in lumps. Stir 
 this into the liquor until dissolved. Let the 
 sherbet stand in a cool place five or six hours, 
 filter through muslin, and it will be ready for 
 use. Time to boil, twenty minutes. Probable 
 cost, 8d. Sufficient for three or four jiersons. 
 SHERBET, RICH. 
 
 Grate the thin rinds of fresh lemons with 
 lumps of loaf sugar, and press the juice and 
 pulp into a bowl, rejecting the seeds. Crush 
 the sugar, rubbing and blending the ingredients 
 with a silver spoon. Then add calf's foot jelly, 
 newly made, and Madeira wine, with any spirit 
 you please. Stir a long while, and after the 
 sherbet has stood two or three hours, filter it 
 until beautifully clear. 
 
 SHERBET, STRAWBERRY. 
 
 Pick a pound of ripe strawberries, and bruise 
 them well in a bowl. Mix with them the 
 strained juice of a lemon and a table-spoonful 
 of orange-flower water, and pour upon them 
 three pints of cold spring water. Let them soak 
 for four hours. Powder a pound of white sugar, 
 and put it into another bowl. Squeeze the 
 strawberry liquor into this through muslin, and 
 stir until the sugar is dissolved. Strain it 
 again, and set it on ice till wanted. Serve in 
 glasses. Time, four hours and a half. Prob- 
 able cost of strawberries, 4d. to 6d. per pound. 
 Sufficient for a dozen persons. 
 
 SHERRY AND EGG. 
 
 Break an egg into a basin, and put in a tea- 
 spoonful of sugar; beat the two together until 
 the sugar is thoroughly mixed with the egg, but 
 not enough to make the egg froth. To this add 
 two table-spoonfuls of sherry and » fourth of a 
 cup of cold water, mixing them thoroughly. 
 Strain all into a tumbler, and serve immedi- 
 ately. Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 SHERRY, BRITISH (Robinson's recipe). 
 
 Mix well eleven gallons of river water with 
 thirty-five pounds of strong moist sugar, the 
 whites of twelve eggs well beaten, and six 
 pounds of honey, and boil them slowly for nearly 
 
 two hours, skimming until the liquor is clear 
 and bright. Pour it boiling hot upon a joeck 
 of the young shoots and buds of the sweetbrier. 
 the thin peels of ten Seville oranges and their 
 juice, and ten ounces of gum arable. Stir it 
 well half an hour, and when at the proper tem- 
 perature work it with fresh yeast, and let it 
 remain four or five days ; then strain it into the 
 cask upon two quarts of the pure juice of Lisbon 
 grapes, ten ounces of sugar-candy broken small, 
 and an ounce of bitter almonds blanched and 
 beaten fine. Keep the bung out as long as the 
 fermentation continues, and the vessel com- 
 pletely filled, and when it is quiet take the 
 scum off the surface, add three pints of French 
 brandy, and stop it up safely for two years or 
 more ; then bottle it, and keep it eighteen 
 months longer, when it will be excellent. 
 
 SHERRY COBBLER. 
 
 Take half a tumblerful of ice rasped into fine 
 shavings. Add two moderate-sized lumps of 
 sugar which have been rubbed upon the yellow 
 part of half a lemon, then crushed to powder, 
 and two glassfuls of sherry. Stir all briskly to- 
 gether, or pass the mixture quickly from one 
 glass to another, and drink the liquor through 
 a straw or glass tube. When time is a con- 
 sideration, the cobbler can be flavoured by mix- 
 ing with the ice a quarter of a lemon, or a 
 quarter of an orange cut into small pieces, and 
 adding a spoonful of powdered sugar. By way 
 of variety, a cupful of strawberries or rasp- 
 berries and a table-spoonful of Cura^oa, may be 
 substituted for the lemon. 
 
 SHIKAREE SAUCE, FOR DUCKS AND WILD 
 FOWL. 
 
 Mix a tea-spoonful of cayenne with a table- 
 spoonful of powdered white sugar. Put the 
 mixture into a small saucepan, and pour over 
 it two glassfuls 'of mushroom ketchup, two 
 glassfuls of claret, and the strained juice of a 
 large fresh lemon. Stir the liquor over the fire 
 till the sugar is dissolved and it is quite hot. 
 Serve immediately. Sufficient for six or eight 
 persons. 
 
 SHORT BREAD. 
 
 (See Bbead, Shobt.) 
 
 SHORT BREAD, SCOTCH. 
 
 No. 1. — Mix two pounds of flour with four 
 ounces of moist sugar, two ounces of candied 
 citron, chopped small, and two ounces of sweet 
 almonds, blanched and sliced. Rub one pound 
 of butter into the flour, melt another half pound 
 of butter, and with this work up the flour to a 
 smooth paste. If a plainer cake is wanted, 
 less butter may be used. Sometimes the whole 
 of the butter is melted, and then the bread is 
 more easily made. Roll out the pastry to the 
 thickness of an inch, and in a large oval shape, 
 pinch the edges evenly; prick the surface with 
 a fork or skewer, and sprinkle large comflts over 
 the top. Cut the oval across, thus making two 
 cakes, and place these on paper rubbed with 
 flour, and then upon tins. Bate in a moderate 
 oven. When the bread is lightly browned, it 
 is done enough. It should be remembered that 
 the less the bread is kneaded the shorter it will 
 be. No. 2. — Rub three-quarters of a pound of 
 fresh unsalted butter into half a pound of flour"; 
 
SHO 
 
 812 
 
 SHR 
 
 add a quarter of a pound of ground rice, four 
 table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, two ounces of 
 candied citron, finely minced, and an ounce of 
 Eweet almonds, blanched, and chopped small. 
 When these ingredients are thoroughly mixed, 
 work the whole into a smooth paste with the 
 yolks of two small eggs. Roll the pastry out 
 to the thickness of half an inch, divide it into 
 four squares, pinch the edges_ neatly, prick the 
 surface with a " dabber" or fork, sprinkle com- 
 fits and sliced citron on the top, and bake as 
 above. Time to bake the bread, half to three- 
 quarters of an hour. 
 SHORT BREAD, SCOTCH (another way). 
 
 Put two pounds of butter in some warm place 
 overnight where it will gradually become soft 
 without at the same time melting. Take two 
 quarterns of flour, and mix with it half a pound 
 of loaf sugar in powder, and lemon-peel and 
 blanched sweet almonds (in quantities according 
 to taste) cut very fine; add all these to the 
 butter, and knead the whole till it appears like 
 dough; then add a table-spoonful or two of 
 yeast ; again knead it, and roll out into cakes of 
 the proper size and thickness. Ornament the 
 edges with candied-lemon and comfits, having 
 previously pricked the cakes with a fork. 
 SHORT CAKES. 
 
 Ordinary short cakes are simply made of pas- 
 try, sweetened with sugar, rolled out to the 
 thickness of three-quarters of an inch, out into 
 pieces of any convenient size, baked, and served 
 hot. In economical households these are fre- 
 quently made of pastry that is left after 
 making pies and tarts. Superior short cakes 
 may be made as follows : — No. 1. — Rub half a 
 pound of fresh butter into a pound of flour ; add 
 a pinch of salt, four table-spoonfuls of powdered 
 sugar, a beaten egg, and as much milk as will 
 make a smooth paste. Roll out the pastry to 
 the thickness of a quarter of an inch, stamp it 
 into fancy shapes, and bake these on tins till 
 crisp and lightly coloured. No. 2. — Put a pint 
 of flour into a basin, and scoop a hollow place 
 out of the centre. Dissolve a little more than 
 half a tea-spoonful of soda in a tea-spoonful of 
 boiling water. Stir this into half a pint of thick 
 sour milk, and beat it well with a pinch of salt 
 and three ounces of creamed butter. Pour this 
 mixture into the hollow, and stir it with the 
 flour to form a smooth paste. Roll it out on 
 a floured board to the thickness of the third of 
 an inch, stamp it into fancy shapes, and bake 
 these on tins in a brisk oven. No. 3. — Rub 
 six ounces of fresh butter into a pound of 
 ground rice; add a pinch of salt and as much 
 cold water as will make a smooth paste. Roll 
 this out, stamp it into cakes, and bake in a 
 brisk oven. No. 4. — Dissolve half a pound of 
 fresh butter in a pint of milk. Stir in as much 
 flour as will make a smooth, light paste. Roll 
 this out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, 
 cut it into large round cakes, and bake these 
 in a frying-pan over a clear fire. Serve hot. A 
 pinch of salt should be mixed with the flour. 
 Time, ten minutes to bake the small cakes. 
 SHORT CRUST, A SUBSTITUTE FOR PUFF- 
 PASTE. 
 
 When puff paste cannot be had, pastry made 
 according to any of the following recipes may 
 
 be used instead. It should be made in a cool 
 place and should be handled very lightly. A 
 moderately-heated oven will be required for 
 baking it. No. 1. — Rub three ounces of fresh 
 butter into a pound of flour till it is as fine 
 as possible; add a pinch of salt and two table- 
 spoonfuls of powdered loaf sugar, and make a 
 smooth paste with two eggs beaten up with milk 
 or cream. Roll out thin. No. 2. — Rub three 
 ounces of butter into a pound of flour; add a 
 pinch of salt and a table-spoonful of powdered 
 sugar, and beat the whole to a smooth paste 
 with a quarter of a pint of boiling cream. No. 
 3. — Rub eight ounces of butter into a pound of 
 flour, and add a pinch of salt, two table-spoon- 
 fuls of powdered sugar, and as much milk as 
 will make a firm smooth paste. If a richer 
 crust is required, ten ounces of butter may be 
 used. (See also Fastb, Shobt.) 
 
 SHORT PASTE CAKE. 
 
 Put a pound of fine flour into a basin; scoop 
 out a hollow in the centre of it, and put into 
 this ten ounces of fresh butter, a pinch of salt,. 
 a dessert-spoonful of powdered sugar, and a 
 quarter of a pint of water. Work all to- 
 gether with the fingerei, and when necessary add 
 another quarter of a pint of water. To make a 
 smooth, firm paste, gather this together into a 
 lump, and leave it in a cool place for a xsouple 
 of hours. Roll it out to an oblong shape, an 
 inch and a quarter thick. Score the edges with 
 a knife, and mark it on the top in any fanciful 
 pattern. Brush over with beaten egg, and bake 
 in a quick oven. Time to bake, about half an 
 hour. Probable cost. Is. Sufiicient for three 
 or four persons. 
 
 SHREWSBURY BUCKWHEAT CAKES. 
 
 Mix a tea-cupful of good brewer's yeast with 
 three pints of warm water; add half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and stir in as much buckwheat 
 meal as will make a thick batter. Cover and 
 set it in a warm place to rise. When it is 
 so light that' bubbles appear on the surface, 
 butter a frying-pan and bake the cakes in 
 it, like pancakes, over a clear fire. A ladleful 
 of the batter will be sufficient for each cake. 
 Butter the cakes while hot, and serve them piled 
 high in the centre of a hot plate, each one 
 with the right side up. The batter will need 
 to rise three or four hours. 
 
 SHREWSBURY CAKES. 
 
 Sift one pound of powdered sugar into two 
 pounds of flour; add a grated nutmeg, or a 
 little powdered cinnamon, and an ounce of 
 caraway-seeds. Mix all thoroughly, then beat 
 in two eggs, the whites and yolks separately, 
 and as much dissolved butter as will form a 
 stiff paste. About eight ounces of butter will 
 be enough. Roll the pastry out to the thick- 
 ness of the eighth of an inch, cut it into round 
 cakes, prick these, and bake on floured tins in 
 a quick oven. If liked, a few currants can be 
 used instead of seeds. Time to bake the-TrakeSj- 
 fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, lOd. 
 per pound. 
 
 SHREWSBURY CAKES (another way). 
 
 Take one part of sifted sugar and three parts 
 of flour, and to every pound of sugar add one 
 grated nutmeg and three eggs. Mix well, and 
 
SHR 
 
 813 
 
 SHR 
 
 form these ingredients into a dough with melted 
 butter and a little rose-water. Bake in the 
 usual way. 
 
 SHREWSBURY CAKES (another way). 
 
 Take two pounds of flour, one pound of 
 powdered sugar, and half a pound of butter. 
 Add to these ingredients four eggs, a little 
 rose-water, and a quarter of a pint of cream. 
 Beat them to a, firm paste, roll the paste out 
 thin, c\xt it into cakes, and bake in a quick oven. 
 SHREWSBURY CAKES (another way). 
 
 Mix half a pound of butter, well beaten into 
 a cream, and the same weight of flour, one e%%, 
 six ounces of beaten and sifted loaf sugar, and 
 half an ounce of caraway-seeds. Form these 
 ingredients into a paste, roll out thin, and lay 
 the cakes in sheets on tins. Bake in a slow 
 oven. 
 
 SHREWSBURY CAKES (another way). 
 
 Take one pound of flour, half a pound of but- 
 ter, half a pound of castor sugar, and two eggs. 
 Mix these ingredients, and form them into a 
 paste with a glassful of white wine. Eoll out 
 then, and cut into cakes with a wine-glass. Bake 
 in a quick oven, 
 
 SHREWSBURY PUDDING. 
 
 Pare and core a pound of good cooking 
 apples, and stew them in a little water, with 
 sugar to taste, adding a couple of cloves, if 
 this flavour is desired. When cool, mix a tea- 
 cupful of bread-crumbs with the apples. Add 
 the yolks of two eggs, well beaten. If the 
 bread does not absorb all the apple-juice, add 
 a little more. Stir in an ounce of butter, pre- 
 viously warmed. Pour into a buttered pie- 
 dish, and bake for forty minutes. Whip whites 
 of eggs to a froth, and pile on top till slightly 
 brown. Probable cost, 8d. to lOd. 
 
 SHRIMP. 
 
 There are several varieties of shrimps, and 
 amongst these the best known are the brown 
 shrimp and the red shrimp. The brown shrimp 
 is the more highly flavoured of the two. It 
 keeps close to the shore, and affects brackish 
 waters. It is mostly caught by fishermen and 
 women, who wade into the sea, and push a 
 shrimp-net before them. The red shrimp, or 
 rather the pale-pink shrimp, rarely attains to 
 such a size as the brown shrmip does ; it is slim- 
 mer in its proportions, and more delicate in 
 flavour. It never enters brackish waters, but 
 keeps well out to sea. It is sometimes called 
 the Yarmouth shrimp, from having been acci- 
 dentally discovered in Great Yarmouth Eoads 
 by some boats employed in recovering lost 
 anchors by a process called "sweeping." Two 
 boats, at a certain distance from each other, 
 proceed up and down the Roads, having a loose 
 rope suspended between them, at the middle of 
 which is fastened a large fish-basket, or " swill," 
 partly laden with stones to sink it. By these 
 means the place of the anchor at the bottom 
 of the sea is ascertained, and it is then raised 
 and brought to land. In particular states of 
 the tide, it was found that the swill was 
 filled with an unusual- species of shrimps. 
 The hint was taken, and the red shrimp fishery 
 established. When freshly boiled, shrimps 
 
 are excellent; stale, they are indigestible. 
 Boiled shrimps, which are clammy to the touch, 
 and exhale a pungent smell, are not fresh, and 
 should be discarded as comparatively worthless. 
 
 SHRIMP AND ASPARAGUS SAUCE. 
 
 Take twenty-five sticks of asparagus, and cut 
 them into short pieces; then boil them till ten- 
 der in a little weak broth. Boil half a pint of 
 shrimps, separate the fish from the shells, pound 
 the latter, and set them on the fire with a piece 
 of butter for a few minutes. Then strain 
 through a tamis. Add a spoonful of flour to the 
 shrimp-butter, and thin it with the liquor in 
 which the asparagus was boiled; set it on the 
 fire with a little grated nutmeg, salt, and a 
 piece of butter. When it boils, put in the 
 shrimps and asparagus, give them a boil up, 
 and serve with boiled fowl, fricassee of chicken 
 or veal, etc. Lobsters may be dressed in the 
 same way. 
 
 SHRIMP AND TOMATO SOUP. 
 
 Boil a pint of shrimps in salted water, 
 flavoured with a bunch of sweet herbs and a 
 large slice of lemon. Drain, cool, and shell the 
 fish, and preserve a quarter of a pint of the 
 liquor in which they were boiled. Slice a dozen 
 large ripe tomatoes, and stir them over the fire, 
 with four sliced onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, 
 and a sUoe of fresh butter, for three or four 
 minutes. A clove of garlic may be added, if 
 liked ; and if there is diificulty in procuring the 
 tomatoes, a smaller number must be made to 
 answer. Pour over them as much stock as will 
 cover them, and let them stew gently till quite 
 tender. Eub them through a sieve, and mix 
 with them half a tumblerful of the liquor in 
 which the shrimps were boiled, and a little 
 more stock, if necessary. Season the soup with 
 cayenne, and let it boil, stirring it well till it 
 begins to thicken. A few minutes before serv- 
 ing, throw the picked shrimps into the soup. 
 Time, two hours. Sufiicient for five or six per- 
 sons. 
 
 SHRIMP BUTTER, FOR SAUCES, ETC. 
 
 The shells of shrimps which are to be potted, 
 or served in any other way, may be utilised for 
 flavouring butter to be used for making fish 
 sauce, and for garnishing dishes. The butter 
 will not keep good more than a few hours. Put 
 the shells of about two hundred and fifty shrimps 
 in a mortar, pound them as finely as possible, 
 and mix with them two ounces of butter. Put 
 the mixture into a jar, set this in a pan of hot 
 water, and let it remain for an hour. Press the 
 butter through a cloth, and put it into cold 
 water. Lift it from the liquor, drain it, and 
 press it through a silk sieve ; work a slice of fresh 
 butter in with it, and it will be ready for use. 
 
 SHRIMP CANAPEES. 
 
 Cut some slices of stale crumb of bread the 
 third part of an inch thick. Stamp these out 
 with a plain round or oval cutter about two 
 inches in diameter, and fry the rounds in butter 
 till they are lightly browned. Let them get 
 cold, then spread a little shrimp butter upon 
 them. Ornament them by placing picked 
 shrimps upon them, and lay them in a circle 
 on a dish overlapping each other. Put a little 
 parsley in the centre, and serve. 
 
SHR 
 
 814 
 
 SHR 
 
 SHRIMP FORCEMEAT. 
 
 Mix shelled shrimps with an equal quantity 
 of grated bread-crumbs, and season the mix- 
 ture with salt, cayenne, and pounded mace. 
 Pound it in a mortar, soften with fresh butter, 
 and bind together with yolk of egg. Forcemeat 
 thus made is very excellent for filling any kind 
 of freshwater fish, but is especially suited for 
 pike and eel. 
 
 SHRIMP KROMESKIES. 
 
 Divide some shelled shrimps into small pieces, 
 put them into a clean saucepan, with a small 
 portion of white sauce, the yolks of two or three 
 eggs, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nut- 
 meg. Stir the mixture over the fire for three 
 or four minutes to set the eggs, then spread it 
 an inch thick upon a plate, and leave it to get 
 cold and stiff. Divide it into portions of an 
 equal size, and form these to the shape of corks 
 or balls. Boil half a pound of bacon for, twenty 
 minutes; let it get cold, then cut it into very 
 thin slices of a size to cover the shrimp balls. 
 Wrap the balls in the bacon, and, if not im- 
 mediately wanted, leive them in a cool place. 
 Dip them in frying-batter, and fry them in 
 hot lard till they are crisp. Drain them from 
 the fat, and serve immediately. Garnish the 
 dish with parsley. 
 SHRIMP PATTIES. 
 
 Make some rich pastry and cut it into small 
 squares ; lay on it some picked shrimps, well 
 seasoned with cayenne; fold over and bake for 
 ten minutes. When nearly done, brush over 
 with the yolk of an egg, sift a little vermicelli 
 on top, and arrange neatly on a hot dish. Gar- 
 nish with cut lemon and parsley. 
 SHRIMP PATTIES (another way). 
 
 Line some patty-pans with puff-paste about 
 half an inch thick, bake in a quick oven till 
 brown, and fill with the following mixture. 
 Shell and chop a pint of shrimps ; put them 
 into a stewpan with an ounce of flour, two 
 ounces of butter, and a quarter of a pint of 
 cream, season with cayenne pepper ana a few 
 drops of lemon-juice. When just on boiling 
 point, take up and fill the pans, then put a lid 
 of pastry on each, re-heat, and serve garnished 
 with small sprigs of parsley. 
 
 SHRIMP PIE. 
 
 Take as many shrimps as will almost fill the 
 dish, pick them, and season with cayenne, 
 pounded mace, a little salt, and vinegar or 
 lemon pickle. A small proportion of essence of 
 anchovies may be added, if liked. Butter a 
 pie-dish rather thickly, and line the edges with 
 pufE-paste. Put in the shrimps, pour over them 
 a glassful of light wine and a small cupful of 
 rich gravy, cover the dish with pufE-paste, and 
 bake in a well-heated oven. For a raaigre dish 
 the gravy must be omitted. Time to bake a 
 moderate-sized pie, three-quarters of an hour. 
 Probable cost of shrimps, 2d. to 4d. per pint. 
 
 SHRIMP PIE (another way). 
 
 Pick three pints of shrimps from the shells. 
 Mix with them two or three anchovies, washed, 
 boned, and shredded very fine, some shredded 
 parsley, two chopped shallots, and a handful of 
 very small bleached mushrooms. Butter well 
 the bottom of a pie-dish with good fresh butter. 
 
 and put the shrimps into it, seasoning them 
 with a little black pepper and some cayenne; 
 if not salt enough add a little, making allow- 
 ance, however, for the salt of the anchovies, 
 for if too salt the pie will be worthless. Place 
 over the shrimps several lumps of fresh butter, 
 amounting in all to a quarter of a pound, also 
 two hard-boiled eggs, shelled and cut into 
 quarters. Pour into the dish a, good glassful 
 of sherry, and also a good glassful of broth, 
 in which has been previously mixed a dessert- 
 spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and a tea-spoon- 
 ful of soy. Put a good substantial crust over 
 the pie, and bake in a quick oven. 
 SHRIMP PUDDING (a Danish recipe). 
 
 This is made in the same way as spinach 
 pudding (sec Spinach Puduing), only instead of 
 using spinach take a pint of picked shrimps. 
 Chop the shrimps small before mixing them 
 with the bread and eggs. This pudding is eaten 
 with shrimp and asparagus sauce. 
 
 SHRIMP PUDDING (for breal<fast or luncheon). 
 
 Take freshly-boiled shrimps, shell them, put 
 them into a pie-dish, and season according to 
 the directions given for Sheimps, Potted 
 Whole, allowing an ounce and a half of butter 
 for a pint of shrimps. Bake in a slow oven till 
 the butter is melted; then let the shrimps get 
 cold, mince them with a sharp knife, and pound 
 them to a smooth paste with the butter in which 
 they were baked. Press them into very email 
 cups, and when wanted heat them in a gentle 
 oven; turn them out upon a dish, and pour 
 rich white sauce round them. If liked, the 
 sauce can be coloured brightly with lobster 
 coral. 
 SHRIMP SALAD. 
 
 Shell a quart of freshly-boiled shrimps, and 
 pile them in the centre of a dish. Boil three 
 eggs hard, and mince the whites and yolks 
 separately. Sprinkle the whites round the 
 shrimps, place a single row of green capers next, 
 and then the chopped yolks. Surround the 
 whole with lettuces cut into quarters and with 
 water-cress, and garnish the dish with gher- 
 kins and boiled beetroot, or little pieces of 
 pickled red cabbage. Send salad sauce to table 
 in a boat. 
 SHRIMP SANDWICH. 
 
 Put a layer of potted shrimps between two 
 pieces of white bread and butter, and after 
 pressing the sandwich gently down, out it with 
 a sharp knife neatly round the edges. It is 
 usual, before closing in, to spread a little made 
 mustard over the meat. 
 
 SHRIMP SAUCE, FOR TROUT, TURBOT, SOLES, 
 SALMON, ETC. 
 
 No. 1. — ^Work two ounces of butter — or more 
 or less, according to taste — and a table-spoon- 
 ful of flour to a smooth paste with a wooden 
 spoon. Add a cupful of boiling water and a 
 little pepper and grated nutmeg, and stir the 
 sauce on the fire till it is on the point of boiling. 
 Take it off the fire, add a tea-spoonful of lemon- 
 juice, a pinch of cayenne, and salt to taste. 
 Throw in a third of a pint of shrimps freed 
 from the shells ; let . them heat three or four 
 minutes in the sauce on the fire till they are 
 tender, but on no account let them boil, as it 
 
SHR 
 
 815 
 
 SHR 
 
 ■will make them hard. Serve in a boat. If 
 liked, an ounce of shrimp butter (see Shbimf 
 BtJtteb) may be dissolved in the sauce, or a tea- 
 spoonful of anchovy essence may be added to 
 it. No. 2. — Take a cupful of melted butter, 
 made partly of milk and partly of water. Stir 
 into it a Tiinch of cayenne, a pinch of pounded 
 mace, and a quarter of a pint of freshly-picked 
 shrimps. Let them heat over the fire for three 
 or four minutes, without boiling, and serve im- 
 mediately. A little cream makes a delicate 
 addition. Time, three minutes to simmer the 
 sauce. Probable cost, shrimps, 2d. to 4d. per 
 pint. Sufficient for six or -seven persons. 
 
 SHRIMP SAUCE (another way). 
 
 Take half a pint of shrimps, picked and 
 washed very clean, and place them in a stew- 
 pan with a spoonful of anchovy sauce, and half 
 a pint of melted butter. Simmer for five 
 minutes, and squeeze in half a lemon. Probable 
 cost of shrimps, 2d. to 4d. per pint. 
 
 SHRIMP SAUCE (M. Ude's recipe). 
 
 Put into a stewpau a quarter of a pound of 
 fresh butter, a tea-spoonful of flour, a small 
 glassful of water, some salt and pepper, and 
 a spoonful of the essence of anchovies ; put this 
 on the stove. As soon as the sauce is thick take 
 it off, and put in half a pint of shelled shrimps, 
 after having washed them well. Never neglect 
 to season sauces; without seasoning the best 
 cookery is good for nothing. 
 
 SHRIMP SAUCE, SUPERIOR. 
 
 No. 1. — Take a, pint of shrimps which have 
 been boiled in plain salt and water, without 
 spice or flavouring of any kind. Pick them, 
 and in doing so throw the heads and shells into 
 one dish and the flesh into another. Boil the 
 heads and shells gently in two table-spoonfuls 
 of water till the flavour is extracted. Strain 
 the liquor through a sieve, let it stand to settle, 
 then pour it off clear, and free from sediment. 
 Make a breakfast-cupful of melted butter; stir 
 the liquor into it, add the shrimps, and shake 
 the sauce over the fire for three or four minutes 
 till the shrimps are hot and tender, but they 
 must not boil, or they will be hard. No. 2. 
 — Take the third of a pint of picked shrimps. 
 Pound half of them in a mortar till smooth, 
 and mix with them half a cupful of thick cream, 
 sweet and fresh. Work two ounces of fresh 
 butter and a table-spoonful of flour to a smooth 
 paste with a wooden spoon. Add a cupful of 
 • toiling water, and stir the sauce over the fire 
 for seven or eight minutes. Put in the un- 
 pounded shrimps, and when they are hot and 
 tender put in the cream, and serve immediately. 
 Time to simmer, three or four minutes. Suf- 
 ficient for six or seven persons. Probable cost, 
 shrimps, 2d. to 4d. per pint. 
 
 SHRIMP TOAST, WITH EGGS. 
 
 Put a pint of picked shrimps into a Btewj)an 
 with an ounce of butter and a little cayenne 
 pepper; simmer for two minutes, then spread 
 them on a large square of toast on a fire-proof 
 baking-tin. Break six or eight eggs carefully 
 over this, and cook in the oven till the eggs 
 are set, which will be in about six to eight 
 minutes. Dust a little pepper over, and serve 
 at once. Probable cost. Is. 6d. to Is. 9d. 
 
 SHRIMPS (k la Dorisa). 
 
 Cut some thin slices of brown bread and 
 butter; divide them into strips of two inches 
 by rather more than half an inch. Spread them 
 lightly with a drop or two of anchovy essence 
 and tomato sauce mixed, and roll them up. Cut 
 some very thin rounds of large sound tomatoes, 
 and lay on each a little pile of shrimps (whole 
 ones, potted in butter, are best); round the 
 shrimps, on the tomato, put a ring of cucumber 
 and pickled mango, cut into tiny dice shapes. 
 Round the whole put three or four of the little 
 rolls of bread and butter. 
 
 SHRIMPS AND ASPARAGUS (a Danish recipe). 
 
 Scrape twenty-five sticks of asparagus of mid- 
 dle size, cut them into pieces about an inch long, 
 boil them in half a pint of water and a little salt. 
 When tender, drain them. Pick a pint of boiled 
 shrimps, pound the shells with a little butter, 
 set it on the fire to brown ; by degrees pour over 
 it half a pint of hot water or thin bouillon, and, 
 lastly, the water in which the asparagus has 
 been boiled. When it has boiled rather less 
 than half an hour, strain it; set it on the fire 
 again with an ounce of flour mixed in a little 
 butter, and thinned with sOme of the warm 
 liquor; when smooth, add it to the sauce; let 
 it boil, and then put in the picked shrimps and 
 asparagus, together with a tea-spoonful of 
 pounded sugar, a little salt, and, if liked, grated 
 nutmeg; give it a boil up. Put it into the 
 centre of a dish upon thin slices of toasted 
 bread, or lay fish roulettes round the dish. 
 Lobsters and crabs may be dressed in like man- 
 ner with a rice border round, and stewed cauli- 
 flower mixed with the lobsters. 
 
 SHRIMPS AND PRAWNS, CHOOSING OF. 
 
 These fish, when in perfection, afford a 
 pleasant scent, are very firm, and their tails 
 turn stiffly inwards. They have a bright colour, 
 when fresh; but when stale their tails grow 
 limp, and the brightness of their colour goes off. 
 
 SHRIMPS, BOILED. 
 
 Shrimps under-boiled are very indigestible ; 
 over-boiled they are tasteless and unwholesome. 
 The time which they take to boil depends upon 
 the size. When they change colour, taste them, 
 in order to ascertain whether or not they are 
 sufficiently done. Shrimps are generally boiled 
 in plain salt and water. M. Soyer recommends 
 that a sprig of lemon-thyme, a sprig of mint, 
 and a bay-leaf should be boiled with them ; this 
 is a matter of taste. Put from five to six ounces 
 of salt in a gallon of water. Bring it to the 
 boil, skim carefully, and when it is boiling 
 quickly throw in the shrimps ; or, better still, 
 put them in a wire basket with a handle, place 
 them in tlie water, and when done enough lift 
 them out. Drain the water well from them, and 
 spread them out on a clean cloth to cool. Some- 
 times dwellers on the sea coast recommend that 
 shrimps should be boiled in sea water ; but their 
 flavour is not then so good as when they are 
 boiled in the usual way; Time to boil the 
 shrimps, five to seven minutes, according to 
 size. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. per pint. 
 SHRIMPS, BUTTERED. 
 
 Pick a pint of fresh shrimps, and put them 
 into a saucepan, with three-quarters of a pint 
 
SHR 
 
 816 
 
 SHR 
 
 of good stock and a spoonful of "brown thicken- 
 ing, or, if preferred, with the same quantity of 
 white sauce. Add a seasoning of salt, pepper, 
 and pounded mace, and simmer all gently to- 
 gether till the shrimps are hot and tender. 
 Serve on a hot dish, and garnish with toasted 
 sippets. Time to simmer the shrimps, three 
 minutes. Probable cost, shrimps, 2d. to 4d. per 
 pint. Sufficient for three or four persons. (See 
 also the recipe for Prawns, Buttbbed.) 
 SHRIMPS (en Coquiiles). 
 
 Take some coquiiles, or small silver shells, 
 or, failing these, some small shallow dishes. 
 Butter them thickly; fill them with shrimps 
 which have been cut up small, and stirred into 
 thick white sauce, flavoured with shrimp butter. 
 Sprinkle fried and seasoned bread-crumbs over 
 them, and heat them in the oven or before the 
 fire. Serve the coquiiles on a hot dish, and gar- 
 nish with parsley. Time, a few minutes to heat 
 the preparation. 
 SHRIMPS FOR FLAVOURING FISH SOUPS. 
 
 Shrimps pounded to paste and pressed through 
 a sieve may be added to almost all kinds of fish 
 soup, and will greatly improve the flavour. 
 Shrimp butter to answer the same purpose may 
 .be made of the shells of shrimps (see Shbimf 
 Butter). 
 shrimps, lobsters, and crabs 
 
 May all be prepared the same way. Boil 
 them according to size over a brisk fire, with 
 a handful of salt in the water, pepper, vinegar, 
 parsley, bay-leaves, thyme, and chives. While 
 boiling put a red-hot poker several times into the 
 water to give the fish a fine colour ; when done, 
 let them remain in the liquor till cold, then take 
 them out, drain them, and rub them with a 
 little butter or oil; break the claws and split 
 them through the back. 
 SHRIMPS, POTTED. 
 
 Shell a quart of freshly-boiled shrimps. Throw 
 them into a mortar with a little bruised 
 lobster spawn, two ounces of butter, a tea- 
 spoonful of anchovy essence, a pinch of grated 
 nutmeg or pounded mace, and a pinch of 
 cayenne. Pound well, then put the mixture 
 into a jar. Set this in a pan of boiling water, 
 and stir the paste over the fire till quite hot. 
 Kub it through a sieve, mix the tails of the 
 shrijnps with the pulp, and let all get hot to- 
 gether. Press the mixture into small pots, and 
 let it get cold. Melt a little butter, and as soon 
 as it begins to set pour it over the preparation 
 to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, and 
 keep the jars in a cool place till wanted. If 
 more convenient, the lobster spawn may be 
 omitted. Shrimps are generally potted in this 
 way, but their delicate flavour is, perhaps, 
 better preserved when they are potted whole. 
 Time to heat the seasoning, about ten minutes. 
 -. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. per pint. 
 
 SHRIMPS, POTTED (another way). 
 
 Boil the shrimps in plenty of salt and water. 
 When cold, shell them, and season with white 
 pepper, salt, and pounded mace and nutmeg. 
 Then press them into the pots. Plac^ them 
 during ten minutes in a gentle oven; let them 
 cool, and when cold pour over them clarified 
 butter. 
 
 SHRIMPS, POTTED WHOLE. 
 
 Put a pint of freshly-boiled and shelled 
 shrimps into a dish, and sprinkle over them half 
 a tea-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of white 
 pepper, and a pinch of grated nutmeg. Put an 
 ounce of butter in little pieces here and there 
 upon them, and place the dish in a moderate 
 oven till the butter is melted. Let the shrimps 
 get cold. Press them into jars, and pour upon 
 them butter which has been melted, and is lust 
 beginning to set. Keep the jars in a cool place 
 till wanted. Time to bake the shrimps, ten 
 minutes. 
 
 SHRIMPS, STEWED. 
 
 Pick as many freehly-boiled shrimps as will 
 measure a pint when shelled. Bruise the heads 
 and shells, and boil them gently "in a quarter of 
 a pint of light wine, a quarter of a pint of 
 water, and a tea-spoonful of vinegar, with a 
 seasoning of salt, cayenne, and mace. Strain 
 the liquor, and let it stand a few minutes. 
 Then pour it off, freed from sediment, put it 
 back into the saucepan, and thicken it with 
 flour and butter. Put in the fish, and simmer 
 them till they are thoroughly heated. They 
 must not boil, or they will be hard. Toast a 
 slice of bread, cut it into small squares, lay it 
 on a dish, and pour upon it the fish and sauce. 
 Serve hot. Time to boil the shells, twenty 
 minutes. 
 
 SHRIMPS, TO SHELL. 
 
 It may seem trifling, to those who know how 
 to do it, to say anything about shelling 
 shrimps; but when there is a right way and a 
 wrong way, it is surely worth while to practise 
 the former. When shrimps are boiled alive, the 
 muscle contracts, and folds the tail beneath the 
 body; when the tail remains extended after- 
 boiling, it is because the shrimp was dead, and 
 it will be found soft and worthless. There is a 
 difference in the shape of the different species 
 of shrimps. The tail of the brown shrimp is 
 quite rounded at the bend, like that of the lob-, 
 ster, whereas the tail of the red shrimp and the 
 prawn presents a sort of knee or angle. To 
 shell a brown shrimp, take the head between 
 the right flnger and thumb, with the left finger 
 and thumb-nail raise on each side the shell of 
 the tail nearest the head; pinch the tail, and 
 the shell will come away entire. At Honfleur, and 
 other parts of the Normandy coast, the finest 
 brown shrimps are picked out to be sent to table 
 as plates of hors d'asuvres, while the small ones 
 are shelled, to make patties and vol-au-vents, by 
 women who perform their task with incredible 
 rapidity. Comfortably seated on a low, rush- 
 bottomed chair, with their feet kept warm in a 
 small tub or keeler, the shelled shrimps fly from 
 their fingers to the basin which receives them 
 almost as if they were discharged in a stream 
 by machinery. To peel red shrimps and prawns, 
 take the head between the thumb and second 
 finger of the right hand; take the tip of the 
 tail between the left finger and thumb; with 
 the nsiil of the right forefinger raise the section 
 of the shell which forms the knee or bend; 
 pinch the tail, and the naked flesh will be loft 
 attached to the head. Shrimps will not shell 
 easily if they are at all stale, when they are 
 pale and clammy in appearance. 
 
SHR 
 
 .817 
 
 SIB 
 
 SHROPSHIRE PUDDING. 
 
 Take half a pound of stale brown bread, and 
 grate it finely. Mix with the crumbs half a 
 pound of fi&ely-shredded beef-suet, six table- 
 spoonfuls of moist sugar, half a nutmeg, grated, 
 the strained juibe and minced rind of a fresh 
 lemon, and the well-beaten yolks of four and 
 the whites of two eggs. A spoonful of brandy 
 may be added or not. Mix the ingredients 
 thoroughly, and turn the mixture into a but- 
 tered mould. Tie it in a cloth, plunge it into 
 fast boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly 
 until done enough. A little melted butter, 
 sweetened and flavoured with brandy, may be 
 sent to table with it. Time to boil, four hours. 
 Probable cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 SHRUB, BRANDY. 
 
 Cut off in thin strips the rind of a large fresh 
 lemon, and put these in a bottle, with the 
 strained juice of two lemons and two pints of 
 best brandy. Cork the bottle closely, and let the 
 liqueur stand in a cool place for four days. Strain 
 it, and mix with it one pint and a half of sherry 
 or Marsala, three-quarters of a pound of clari- 
 fied loaf sugar, and as much grated nutmeg as 
 will stand on a threepenny piece. Filter the 
 preparation, and it will be ready for use. "Very 
 good milk punch may be made of the dregs 
 which remain after the shrub is poured off. To 
 make it, pour upon the dregs three times the 
 quantity of warm but not boiling milk. Stir 
 the preparation briskly for a few minutes, then 
 leave it in a cool place for three days. Pour off 
 the clear liquor, and strain the thick part 
 through a tamis. Time, four days. Sufficient 
 for half a, gallon of shrub. 
 SHRUB, LEMON OR ORANGE. 
 
 Take two lemons and six Seville oranges, or, 
 if preferred, take eight sweet oranges. Grate 
 off the rinds, and squeeze out the juice, then 
 with each quart of juice put three pounds of 
 powdered loaf sugar. Stir the sugar till it is 
 dissolved, and put two quarts of best Jamaica 
 rum with each quart of juice. Put the mixture 
 into a cask, and shake xt three times a day for 
 three weeks. Let it stand in a cool place till 
 clear. Filter, and bottle for use. (See Obangb 
 OE Lemon Shbub.) 
 SHRUB, RUM. 
 
 Put a pint of lemon-juice to five pints of best 
 Jamaica rum. With each quart of the mixture 
 put one pound and a half of clarified loaf sugar. 
 Strain, and bottle for use. If liked, the whole 
 or part of the lemon-rind can be infused in the 
 juice to flavour it. 
 SHRUB, WHITE CURRANT. 
 
 Bruise the currants, and .put them on a sieve 
 covered with muslin, that the juice may run 
 from them. Dissolve in each quart of juice half 
 a pound of powdered loaf sugar, add a pint of 
 rum, and bottle for use. 
 SHRUB, WHISKEY. 
 
 Boil four pounds of Demerara sugar to a clear 
 syrup with a pint of water. Skim carefully, and 
 let it get cold; then mix with it the strained 
 juice of four pounds of lemons, one pound and 
 a half of Seville oranges, half a pint of porter, 
 and a gallon of whiskey. Put it into a jar, and 
 3a 
 
 shake it every day for a fortnight. Let.it stand 
 till clear, strain it off, and bottle for use. 
 Time, a month to clear the shrub. 
 
 SIBERIAN CRAB APPLES, PRESERVED. 
 
 For preserving, the Siberian crabs should b< 
 gathered before they are fully ripe, as their fine 
 acidity and agreeable texture are then in perfec- 
 tion; when mellow, they are mealy and juice- 
 less. Fill the jars with them in order to judge 
 what quantity will suffice, put them into a 
 saucepan of boiling water, and barely scald 
 them; the moment one of the skins begins to 
 crack, take them off the fire, pour them into 
 a stone colander, peel them (this operation is 
 easily performed, for the peel will curl up as 
 fine, tough, and thin as gold-beater's-skin) ; 
 then, having made a thin syrup, put the fruit 
 into the jars and pour it hot upon them, push 
 down the apples as they rise to the surface, in 
 order to ensure their all coming in contact with 
 the syrup, and set them away uncovered. On 
 the following day pour them all out into a 
 colander, place the syrup in the saucepan with 
 more sugar, so as to ensure a thick syrup, boil 
 and skim it, and again return it hot over the 
 fruit; continue to keep the mouths of the jars 
 open, aiad the next day, if the apples are. soft 
 enough, and the syrup appears sufficiently thick 
 and clear, tie them over with bladder. In a week, 
 look at them, and, if any mould or fermentation 
 begin to show, reboil the syrup as before 
 directed. For puddings and pies the Siberian 
 crab cannot be excelled. These apples require 
 neither peeling nor coring, and if used before 
 they become mellow, are juicy and brisk in 
 fiavour; the core remains entire, and imparts a 
 unique and most delicious flavour ; they are less 
 trouble ilso than most other fruits from the^r 
 being dressed whole. 
 
 SIBERIAN CRAB APPLES, TO PRESERVE 
 WHOLE. 
 
 No. 1. — Boil an inch of cinnamon, three or 
 four cloves, and a small piece of whole ginger 
 in a pint of water till it is pleasantly flavoured. 
 Strain it, and make it into syrup by boiling 
 with it for a quarter of an hour a pound of loaf 
 sugar, and let it stand till cold. Put it into a, 
 pan, with a pint of Siberian crabs, which have 
 been well wiped with a cloth and pricked with 
 a needle about the stalks, and let all get hot 
 together. Take the preparation offl the fire, let 
 it get cold, then heat it again, and repeat this 
 process three times. When the crabs look clear, 
 lift them out, put them into jars, and pour the 
 syrup over them. Put brandy papers over the 
 top, and cover the fruit in the usual way. If 
 more convenient, the syrup may be boiled on 
 three successive days. No. 2. — Take the crabs 
 with an inch or more of stalk, wash them well, 
 and prick them in three or four places round the 
 stalk. Put them into a pan, and pour upon them 
 as much boiling water as will barely cover them. 
 When cold, drain them from the liquor, then 
 boil the liquor with a pound of refined sugar to 
 every pint. When it is thick and clear, pour it 
 upon the crabs, and let them stand in a cool 
 place for twenty-four hours. Put fruit and 
 syrup into a pan, and make both scalding hot. 
 Lift out the fruit, boil up the juice, and pour 
 it upon the crabs. Bepeat this process till the 
 
SIC 
 
 ;8i8 
 
 SIC 
 
 fruit looks clear, and be careful in these later 
 boilings to let the syrup get quite cold before 
 it is poured upon the fruit. Put the jam care- 
 fully into jars, and cover in the usual way. 
 Time, uve or six days. Probable cost, uncertain, 
 Siberian crabs being seldom sold. 
 
 SICILIAN BISCUITS. 
 
 Pound half a stick of vanilla, and work it up 
 thoroughly with six ounces of powdered and 
 sifted sugar and two well-beaten eggs. Put the 
 mixture into a copper saucepan, and stir it 
 briskly over a gentle fire until it is warm. 
 Pour it out, and continue stirring until cold. 
 Add five ounces of flour, and mix all thoroughly 
 together. Fill a forcing-bag with the batter, 
 and press it out in fancy shapes upon a baking- 
 sheet. Cover the surface of the biscuits with 
 finely-powdered sugar, and bake in a gentle 
 oven. Time to bake, about a, quarter of an 
 hour. Probable cost. Is. 4d. per pound. 
 SICILIAN SAUCE, FOR FOWLS, TURKEYS, ETC. 
 
 Cut four ounces of lean ham into dice, and 
 simmer gently in a quarter of a pint of water 
 till it is reduced to half the quantity. Strain, 
 stir it into a quarter of a pint of strong stock, 
 then simmer it again with a slice of lemon-rind 
 and pulp, together half an inch thick, half a 
 tea-spoonful of coriander-seeds, and a pinch of 
 powdered mace. At the end of eight or ten 
 minutes add a, stick of celery, a pinch of 
 cayenne, and a clove of garlic. If the flavour 
 is objected to, the latter article can be omitted, 
 and a shallot or a small onion substituted for it. 
 Simmer all gently together for twenty minutes. 
 Thicken the sauce with flour and butter, add a 
 glassful of light wine, and let the sauce boil till 
 it coats the spoon. Time altogether,_one hour 
 and three-quarters. Sufficient for a good-sized 
 fowl. 
 
 SICK, COOKING FOR THE. 
 
 The subject of the feeding of invalids is fully 
 dealt with in Pbinciplbs of Cookebt, pp. 
 Ixxxvii. — xc, and a list of various recipes 
 for Invalid Cookery which appear in this work 
 will be found in the Classified Index. For con- 
 venience sake we have here brought together a 
 number of representative recipes from various 
 sources. 
 
 Apple Water. — Cut two large apples into 
 slices, and pour a quart of boiling water on 
 them, or on roasted apples; strain in two or 
 three hours, and sweeten slightly. 
 
 Arrowroot Jelly. — Put into a saucepan half a 
 pint of water, a glassful of sherry or a spoonful 
 of brandy, grated nutmeg, and fine sugar; boil 
 up once, then mix it by degrees into a des- 
 sert-spoonful of arrowroot previously rubbed 
 smooth with two spoonfuls of cold water; then 
 return the whole into the saucepan, stir and 
 boil it three minutes. 
 
 Arrowroot Pudding. — Take a table-spoonful of 
 arrowroot and half a pint of milk, a table-spoon- 
 ful of which add cold to the arrowroot, stirring 
 it till it is well mixed, then boil the remainder 
 of the half-pint of milk, sweeten to taste with 
 loaf sugar, and while it is boiling hot add it by 
 degrees to the arrowroot, then boil the whole 
 (stirring it all the time) till it becomes 
 thickened, and have ready the yolks and whites 
 of six eggs, beaten together, which stir into it. 
 
 Put all into » buttered basin, and cover with 
 paper. Then steam it for half an hour. A 
 pudding may be made in the ■ same way, and 
 baked in a dish with a light crust round, and 
 flavoured with any approved ingredient. 
 
 Barley Gruel. — Wash four ounces of pearl- 
 barley, boil it in two quarts of water with a 
 stick of cinnamon till reduced to a quart; 
 strain, and return it to the saucepan with sugar 
 and three-quarters of a pint of port wine. Heat 
 up, and use as wanted. 
 
 Barley Water. — Wash a handful of common 
 barley, then simmer it gently in three pints of 
 water with a bit of lemon-peel. This is less" 
 •apt to nauseate than the pearl barley of the 
 following recipe; but the other is a very 
 pleasant drink. 
 
 Barley Water (another way). — ^Boil an ounce 
 of pearl barley a few minutes to cleanse, then 
 pour on it a quart of water; simmer an hour; 
 when half done put into it a bit of fresh lemon- 
 peel and one bit of sugar. If likely to be too 
 thick, you may add another quarter of a pint of 
 water. 
 
 Beef Juice. — The clear juice of beef, slightly 
 diluted with water, is always excellent, and ig 
 often valuable in pleasantly exciting the action 
 of the mouth and stomach after a long illness 
 in which milk has been the chief article of diet. 
 To make it, take half a pound of steak, cut 
 away everything except the lean fibre, divide it 
 into small pieces, put them into a glass jar, 
 cover it, and place it in a deep saucepan of cold 
 water. Heat it gradually for an hour, but do 
 not allow the temperature at any time to exceed 
 160° Fahr. ; then strain out the juice and press 
 the meat. Add a little salt, and it is ready to 
 serve. The liquid should be clear red. Half a 
 pound will make three or four table-spoonfuls 
 of juice. 
 
 Beef, Mutton, and Veal Broth. — Put two 
 pounds of lean beef, one pound of scrag of veal, 
 one pound of scrag of mutton, sweet herbs, and 
 ten peppercorns, into a, nice tin saucepan vrith 
 five quarts of water; simmer to three quarts; 
 and clear from the fat when cold. Add one onion 
 if approved. Soup and broth made of different 
 kinds of meat are more supporting as well as 
 better flavoured. To remove the fat, take it 
 off when cold as clean as possible ; and if there 
 be still any remaining, lay a sheet of clean blot- 
 ting paper on the broth when in the basin, and 
 it will take up every particle. 
 
 Beef-Tapioca Soup. — Soak a quarter of a 
 pound of granulated tapioca for twenty minutes 
 in ^ gill of cold water, then put it to cook in a 
 double boiler with half a pint of water. When 
 the grains become soft and begin to look trans- 
 parent put in a pint of good stock, half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, the same of mixed sweet herbs, 
 a tea-spoonful of minced onion, and a little 
 black pepper, and cook them until the tapioca 
 is completely dissolved, which will take from 
 two to three hours. Strain and return to the 
 fire for another five minutes, when it is ready 
 to serve. 
 
 Beef Tea. — Cut in small pieces two pounds 
 of fresh lean beef; add three pints of cold 
 water; when on the point of boiling, carefully 
 remove tfce scum; the moment the broth boils 
 add a pint of cold water; then let it boil up 
 
$i6 
 
 819 
 
 SIC 
 
 again, and remove the scum as before. If by 
 "this time it is not perfectly clear, the same 
 quantity of wat^r may be added a second time, 
 which will cause more scum to rise. The same 
 remarks apply to all other broths and gravies, 
 which will always be transparent and finely 
 flavoured if the same rule be ojDserved. Beef 
 tea should be allowed to simmer not less than 
 three-quarters of an hour, and not more than 
 one hour, from the time it is last skimmed. 
 
 Brandy-milk with Egg. — Heat half a pint of 
 milk in an enamelled saucepan for half an hour, 
 but do not let it boil, then pour it into a bowl, 
 and set it aside to cool. When cold, beat an 
 egg with a table-spoonful of sugar until well 
 mixed, add two table-spoonfuls of brandy. 
 Strain into a glass, and serve at once. 
 
 Bread. Pudding, Light. — Pour some boiling- 
 hot milk on a few thin slices of white bread or 
 the crumb of French rolls; when cold beat up 
 one whole egg and the yolks of two others, mix 
 them well with the bread, adding a small por- 
 tion of grated nutmeg, lemon-peel, and as much 
 white powdered sugar as will make it palatable. 
 A few picked currants may be sometimes added. 
 Put the preparation into a pudding-basin 
 slightly rubbed over with butter, and cover the 
 top with a piece of buttered paper; then place 
 the basin in a saucepan containing boiling 
 water, and let the pudding steam for half an 
 hour or more, according to its size. 
 
 Broth. Clear. — The following is a clear broth 
 that will keep long. Put the mouse-round of 
 beef, a knuckle-bone of veal, and a few shanks 
 of mutton into a deep pan, and cover close with 
 a dish or coarse crust ; bake till the beef is done 
 enough for eating, with only as much water as 
 will^over. When cold, cover it close in a cool 
 place. When to be used give it whatever flavour 
 may be approved. 
 
 Broth for Invalids. — ^This may be made in the 
 
 same way as restorative meat jelly (see Meat 
 
 . Jelly, Restorative), with an old fowl cut in 
 
 pieces and its own weight in gravy beef. It 
 
 must, however, simmer two hours only. 
 
 Broth, Quickly Made. — Take a bone or two 
 of a neck or loin of mutton, and take off the 
 fat and skin, set it on the fire, in a small tin 
 saucepan that has a cover, with three-quarters 
 of a pint of water, the meat being first beaten 
 and cut in thin bits; add a bit of thyme and 
 parsley, and, if approved, a slice of onion. Let 
 it boil very quickly, skim it nicely; take off the 
 cover if likely to be too weak, else cover it. 
 Half an hour is sufficient for the whole process. 
 
 Calf's Foot Broth. — Boil two feet in three 
 quarts of water : reduce to half ; strain, and set 
 it by. When to be used, take off the fat, put a 
 large tea-cupful of the jelly into a saucepan with 
 half a glassful of sweet wine, a little sugar and 
 nutmeg, and beat it up till it is rea^dy to boil ; 
 then take a little of it, and beat by degrees to 
 the yolk of an egg, and adding a bit of butter the 
 size of a nutmeg, stir it all together, but do not 
 let it boil. Jjrrate a bit of fresh lemon into it. 
 
 Calf's Foot Broth (another way). — Boil two 
 calf's feet, two ounces each of veal and beef, 
 the bottom of a penny loaf, two or three blades 
 of mace, half a nutmeg sliced, and a little salt 
 in three quarts of water : reduce to three pints ; 
 strain, and take off the fat. 
 
 Calf's Foot Jelly. — Boil two calf's feet in 
 four quarts of water for five hours, then strain 
 the liquor through a hair sieve, and the next, day 
 take off all ' the fat. Whisk the whites and 
 shells of three eggs in a stewpan, then put in 
 the jelly, and add a small piece of cinnamon, 
 the thin peel of two lemons and the juice of 
 three, with about six or seven ounces of loaf 
 sugar. Put the stewpan on a brisk fire, and 
 whisk its contents till on the point of boiling, 
 then remove the stewpan, cover it closely, aid 
 let it remain near the fire for fifteen minutes, 
 taking care not to allow the jelly to boil. Pass 
 it through the bag in the usual way. If wine 
 be used, it will be better to add it the moment 
 before the jelly is passed through the bag. 
 
 Caudle. — Make a fine smooth gruel of oat- 
 meal ; strain it when boiled well, stir it at times 
 till cold. When to be used add sugar, wine 
 and lemon-peel, with nutmeg. Some like a 
 spoonful of brandy besides the wine ; others like 
 lemon-juice. 
 
 Caudle (another way). — .Boil up half a pint 
 of fine gruel with a bit of butter the size of a 
 large nutmeg, a large spoonful of brandy, the 
 same of white wine, one of capiUaire, a bit of 
 lemon-peel and nutmeg. 
 
 Caudle (another way). — Into a pint of fine 
 gruel, not thick, put, while it is boiling-hot, 
 the yolk of an egg beaten with sugar and 
 mixed with a large spoonful of cold water, a 
 glassful of wine, and nutmeg. Mix by degrees. 
 This is very agreeable and nourishing. 
 
 Chicken Broth. — Put the body and legs of the 
 fowl that chicken panada was made of, after 
 taking off the skin and rump, into the water it 
 was boiled in with one blade of mace, one slice 
 of onion, and ten peppercorns. Simmer till the 
 broth be of a pleasant flavour. If there is not 
 water enough, add a little. Beat fine a quarter 
 of an ounce of sweet almonds with a tea-spoon- 
 ful of water, boil this with the broth, strain, and 
 when cold remove the fat. 
 
 Chicken Broth and Veal Broth. — These are 
 prepared in the same way as beef tea, and may 
 be made of any strength desired by adding 
 more or less water. Chicken and veal broth do 
 not require so much skimming as beef tea. 
 
 Chicken, Minced. — Take the breast of a cold 
 roast chicken, and mince it finely. Add half a 
 tea-spoonful of fine flour, together with five or 
 six table-spoonfuls of broth. Season with a 
 pinch of salt. If broth is not at hand, sub- 
 stitute new milk. 
 
 Chicken or Fowl, To Extract the Essence of. — 
 Proceed in the same way as in the recipe 
 Veal, .To Extract the Essence of, taking care 
 to chop the bones in pieces, and lay them in 
 the bottom of the jar, placing the meat on the 
 top of them. Take care that the water in the 
 saucepan does not get into the jar when boiling. 
 
 " The pure essence of meat thus extracted is 
 invaluable for weak stomachs and where con- 
 siderable nutriment is required in a concen- 
 trated form. It is also light, and easy of diges- 
 tion, compared with more glutinous prepara- 
 tions. A single table-spoonful of the essence 
 can be taken by an invalid, and would afford as 
 much sustenance as a quarter of a pint of broth." 
 
 Chicken Panada. — ^Take the breast of a cold 
 chicken, and pound it in a mortar to a very fine 
 
SIC 
 
 820 
 
 SIC 
 
 paste, then put it into a small stewpan, and add 
 to it, gradually, as much boiling-hot broth as 
 will make it of the required consistency. Season 
 trith a little salt. Place the stewpan on the 
 fire, stir the contents, but do not let them boil. 
 
 Chicken Panada (another way). — Boil the 
 chicken till about three parts done, in a quart 
 of water, take off the skin, cut the white meat oS 
 when cold, and put it into a marble mortar; 
 pound it to a paste with a little of the water it 
 was boiled in. Season with a little salt, a grate 
 of nutmeg, and the least bit of lemon-peel. 
 Boil gently for a few minutes to the consistency 
 liked; it should be such as can be drunk, 
 although tolerably thick. 
 
 Chicken with Sauce. — Prepare the chicken as 
 in the recipe Chicken with Sippets. Serve it 
 up with a delicate sauce made by mixing the 
 yolks of two fresh eggs with a spoonful of water, 
 and then adding them to the gravy of the 
 chicken while hot, but which must not be 
 allowed to boil. Chicken dressed in this way 
 forms an agreeable repast for an invalid, and 
 is very light for the stomach, and easy of 
 digestion. 
 
 Chicken with Sippets. — Take a small chicken 
 trussed for boiling, and let it soak in a pan of 
 cold water for half an hour. Put it into a small 
 stewpan just large enough to hold it; pour in 
 half a pint of cold water, and when it boils 
 cover the saucepan closely, and let it simmer 
 very gently for twenty or twenty-five minutes, 
 according to its size. Dish up the chicken in 
 a very hot covered dish, put half a dozen sippets 
 of bread round the bottom, and then strain the 
 broth from the chicken through a fine lawn 
 sieve into the dish, taking care to prevent any 
 fat passing through. Add a little salt, if ap- 
 proved. 
 
 Cream, of Celery Soup. — Wash and scrape a 
 head of celery, cut it into half-inch pieces, put 
 it into a pint of boiling water, and cook until 
 it is soft. Then mash it in the water in which 
 it was boiled, and add salt and pepper to 
 taste. Cook an onion in a pint of milk, and 
 with it a table-spoonful of flour, and the same 
 of butter. Mak"e a white sauce. Add the celery 
 to this, and strain through a wire sieve, pressing 
 it with the back of a spoon until all is squeezed 
 through. Return the soup to the fire in a 
 double boiler, and heat until it steams, when 
 it is ready for use. 
 
 Cream of Rice Soup. — Pick and wash two 
 table-spoonfuls of rice, and put it into a pint of 
 chicken broth or stock to cook. Simmer slowly 
 until the rice is very soft, which will take about 
 an hour. Half an hour before it is done put a 
 pint of cream into a saucepan with a tea-spoon- 
 ful of chopped onions, a stalk of celery, a little 
 white pepper, and a salt-spoonful of curry- 
 powder, and let them simmer slowly for twenty 
 minutes. Then pour the mixture into the rice, 
 press all through a wire sieve, add three salt- 
 spoonfuls of salt, and set it back on the fire to 
 heat to boiling point. 
 
 Eel Broth. — Clean half a pound of small eels, 
 and set them on with three pints of water, some 
 parsley, one slice of onion, a few peppercorns; 
 let them simmer till the eels are broken and the 
 broth good; add salt, and strain it off. The 
 above should make three half-pints of broth. 
 
 Eggs. — ^An egg broken into a cup of tea, or 
 beaten and mixed with a basin of milk, makes 
 a breakfast more supporting than tea solely. 
 An egg divided, and the yolk and white beaten 
 separately, then mixed with a glassful of wine, 
 will afford two very wholesome draughts, and 
 prove lighter than when taken together. 
 
 Egg PFime.— Beat an egg, mix with it a 
 spoonful of cold water. Set on the fire a 
 glassful of white wine, half a glassful of water, 
 sugar, and nutmeg; when it boils, pour off a 
 little of it to the egg by degrees, till all of it 
 is in, stirring it well; then return the whole 
 to the saucepan, put it on a, gentle fire, stir 
 it one way for not more than a minute, for if it 
 boils, or the egg be stale, it will curdle. Serve 
 with toast. "Egg wine may be made as above 
 without warming the egg, and it is then lighter 
 on the stomach, though not so pleasant to the 
 taste. 
 
 Fish, Creamed. — ^Take any white fish which 
 flakes easily, such as cod and haddock. Cook 
 it for fifteen or twenty minutes by gentle 
 boiling. Then remove the flesh carefully from 
 the bones, separating it into flakes ; season with 
 pepper and salt and a few drops of lemon-juice. 
 For every pint of prepared fish make a butter 
 sauce with four table-spoonfuls of butter, two 
 of flour, and a pint of milk in which a small 
 slice of onion has been boiled. Pour the sauce 
 over the seasoned fish, mixing them together 
 gently so that the flakes may not be broken. 
 Arrange them on a plate, sprinkle the top with 
 small flecks of butter and bread-crumbs, and 
 bake in a hot oven for twenty to thirty minutes. 
 
 Gloucester Jelly. — Take an ounce each of rice, 
 sago, pearl barley, hartshorn shavings, and 
 eringo-root; simmer with three pints of water 
 till the liquid is reduced to one, and strain it. 
 When cold it will be a jelly; which give, dis- 
 solved in wine, milk, or broth. 
 
 Isinglass Jelly. — Put one ounce of isinglass 
 into a stewpan with a pint of cold water, the 
 thin rind of a fresh lemon, and four ounces of 
 loaf sugar; the half of the white of an egg 
 beaten on a plate may be added. Put the stew- 
 pan on the fire, and occasionally stir its con- 
 tents. The moment they boil place the stew- 
 pan at the corner of the fire, and let the jelly 
 simmer very gently for fifteen minutes; then 
 strain through a fine lawn sieve. This jelly may 
 be flavoured with lemon-juice, maraschino, or 
 noyeau. 
 
 Lemonade. — Peel the thin rind of one or two 
 fresh lemons without any of the white part; 
 put the peel into a jug, and pour over it a pint 
 of boiling water ; add four ounces of loaf sugar, 
 and cover the jug closely to keep in the steam. 
 Let it stand till cold, and then add the juice 
 of the lemons; strain through a fine piece of 
 muslin into a clean jug or decanter. 
 
 Lemon-^ater. — Put two slices of lemon thinly 
 pared into a tea-pot, a little bit of the peel, 
 and a bit of sugar, or a large spoonful flf 
 >capillaire; pour in a pint of boiung water, and 
 stop it closely for two hours. 
 
 Light Puddings of Vermicelli, Semolina, 
 Tapioca, Rice, Chround Rice, etc. — Whatever sub- 
 stance is used, it must flrst be boiled tender 
 in milk, then proceeded with as for the other 
 puddings (see Bread Puddings, Light, etc.). 
 
SIC 
 
 821 
 
 SIO 
 
 always taking care that the substance employed 
 is of a thick consistency before the eggs, etc., 
 are added. All light puddings, either of bread, 
 spongecake, vermicelli, etc., may be flavoured 
 in various ways by using vanilla, orange-flowers, 
 cinnamon, almond, or any other approved 
 flavours. 
 
 Macaroni, with Broth. — Take a small quantity 
 of real Italian macaroni, and boil it in water 
 till it is just tender. Drain the water off on 
 a hair sieve, then put the macaroni into a stew- 
 pan with some of the broth, and let it simmer 
 for five or six minutes ; season with a little salt, 
 if preferred. 
 
 Meat Jelly, Sestorative. — Take two or three 
 pounds of the knuckle of veal, the same weight 
 of fresh-killed gravy-beef, and one calf's foot, 
 cut the meat from the bones, and chop these in 
 pieces; lay them in the bottom of a stewpan, 
 and put the meat on the top of them ; then add 
 as much cold water as will rise two or three 
 inches above the meat; let the whole simmer 
 gently for four hours, taking great care to re- 
 move every particle of scum as it rises in the 
 first boiling. Strain through a fine hair sieve, 
 and the next morning the whole of the fat can 
 be taken off. 
 
 Mutton Broth.— This is best made with the 
 Bcrag-ends of the necks chopped in pieces, then 
 well washed and soaked in warm water to draw 
 out the blood, and allowed to simmer for two 
 hours. \ 
 
 Mutton Broth (another way). — This is a very 
 supporting broth against any kind of weakness. 
 Boil two pounds of loin of mutton, with a very 
 large handful of chervil, in two quarts of water 
 till reduced to one. Take off part of the fat. 
 Any other herbs or roots may be added. Take 
 half a pint four times a day. 
 
 Orangeade. — Take the thin peel of two oranges 
 and of one lemon ; add the water and sugar the 
 same as for lemonade ; when cold, add the juice 
 of one lemon and of four or five oranges, and 
 strain off. 
 
 Orange Jelly. — Use only half a pint of water 
 to one ounce of isinglass, and proceed as in the 
 recipe Isinglass Jelly. Then rub the rinds of 
 one lemon and of two oranges on a piece of loaf 
 sugar, which must be scraped off into a basin, 
 in which the juice of the lemon and the juice 
 of five or six oranges must be squeezed. Then 
 add the melted isinglass, and mix well together. 
 Strain through a fine sieve. ' 
 
 Orgeat. — Beat two ounces of almonds with 
 a tea-spoonful of orange-flower water and a 
 bitter almond or two ; then pour a quart of 
 milk and water to the paste. Sweeten with 
 sugar or capillaire. 
 
 Panada (made in five minutes). — Set a little 
 water on the fire with a glassful of white wine, 
 «ome sugar, and a scrape of nutmeg and lemon- 
 peel; meanwhile grate some crumbs of bread. 
 The moment the mixture boils up, keep it still 
 on the flre, put the crumbs in, and let it boil as 
 fast as it can. When of » proper thickness to 
 drink, take it off. 
 
 Porh Jelly, Dr. Ratcliff'a Restorative. — Take 
 a leg of well-fed pork just as cut up, beat it, 
 and break the bone. Set it over a gentle fire 
 with three gallons of water, and simmer to one. 
 Let half an ounce each of mace and nutmeg 
 
 stew in it. Strain through a fine sieve. When 
 cold, take off the fat. Give a chocolate-cupful 
 the first and last thing and at noon, adding salt 
 to taste. 
 
 Shank Jelly. — Soak twelve shanks of mutton 
 four hours, then brush and scour them very 
 clean. Lay them in a saucepan with three 
 blades of mace, an onion, twenty Jamaica and 
 thirty or forty black peppers, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, and a crust of bread made very brown by 
 toasting. Pour three quarts of water to them, 
 and set them on a hot hearth close-covered; let 
 them simmer as gently as .possible for five 
 hours, then strain the liquor off, and put it in a, 
 cold place. This may have the addition of a 
 pound of beef, if approved, for flavouring. It is a 
 remarkably good thing for people who are weak. 
 
 Sippets. — On an extremely hot plate put two 
 or three sippets of bread, and pour over them 
 some gravy from beef, mutton, or veal. Sprinkle 
 a little salt over. 
 
 Spongecake Pudding. — Pour boiling milk on 
 six penny spongecakes, and follow the same 
 directions as for the bread pudding (sec Bread 
 Pudding, Light), sometimes adding a few mus- 
 catel raisins. Half a wine-glassful of sherry or 
 a table-spoonful of good brandy may also be 
 added, if approved. 
 
 Tapioca Jelly. — Choose the largest sort, pour 
 cold water on two or three times to wash it, 
 then soak it in fresh water five or six hours, 
 and simmer it in the same until it becomes 
 quite clear; then add lemon-juice, wine, and 
 sugar. The peel should have been boiled in it. 
 It thickens very much. 
 
 Tench Broth.— 'M.aTs.e in the same way as eel 
 broth. They are both very nutritious and light 
 of digestion. 
 
 Toasfand Water. — ^Toast slowly a thin piece 
 of bread till extremely brown and hard, but not 
 the least black ; then plunge it into a jugful of 
 cold water, and cover it over an hour before 
 using. It should be of a fine brown colour 
 before it is drunk. 
 
 Veal Broth {yery nourishing). — Put the 
 knuckle of a leg or shoulder of veal with very 
 little meat to it, an old fowl, and four shank- 
 bones of mutton extremely well soaked and 
 bruised, three blades of mace, ten peppercorns, 
 an onion, a large piece of bread, and three quarts 
 of water into a stewpot that covers close, and 
 simmer in the slowest manner after it has boiled 
 up and been skimmed; or bake it; strain, and 
 take off the fat. Salt as wanted. It will re- 
 quire four hours. 
 
 Veal, To Extract the Essence of. — Take two 
 pounds of the lean part of the leg of veal, and 
 cut it into pieces, without any of the fat. Wash 
 the meat in cold water, and put it in a white 
 glazed jar or stone jar just large enough to 
 hold the pieces. Add only two table-spoonfuls 
 of water. Cover the jar down closely, and 
 lay it in a saucepan containing boiling water, 
 which must continue to boil on a slow fire for 
 two hours. At the end of that time all the 
 juice or gravy will be extracted, and may be 
 strained off for use. 
 
 Vermicelli, Italian Paste, and Rice. — These 
 are all to be prepared in the same way as ma- 
 caroni (see Macaroni, with Broth). In this 
 way light and nutritious diet will be furnished 
 
sil; 
 
 822 
 
 SIM 
 
 for an invalid, which will often be retained on 
 the stomach when a more solid substance would 
 be rejected. 
 
 Water Gruel.^Put a large spoonful of oat- 
 meal by degrees into a pint of water, and when 
 smooth boil it with a little salt. 
 
 Water Gruel (another way). — Eub smooth a 
 large spoonful of oatmeal with two of water, 
 and pour it into a pint of water boiling on the 
 fire; stir it well, and boil quickly, but take 
 care that it does not boil over. In a quarter 
 of an hour strain it off, and add salt and a piece 
 of butter when about to be eaten. Stir until the 
 butter is incorporated. 
 
 Wliey. — That of cheese is a very wMolesome 
 drink, especially when the cows are in fresh 
 herbage. 
 
 White Broths with Vermicelli.— JA^ht and 
 delicate white broths may be produced by stir- 
 ring the yolks of two or three fresh eggs with 
 two table-spoonfuls of cold water, which must 
 then be poured into the hot broth, gently stir- 
 ring it all the time, without allowing the broth 
 to boil after the eggs are put in, or they will be 
 curdled. 
 
 SILVER JELLY. 
 
 If properly made, this jelly will be perfectly 
 clear and colourless. Put an ounce and a half 
 of the best Russian isinglass into a saucepan, 
 and pour over it a pint of cold water. Cover the 
 pan closely, place it on a gentle fire, and let it 
 remain until the isinglass is dissolved; then 
 pour it out till cool. Eub the rind of two fresh 
 lemons with three or four large lumps of sugar 
 till the yellow part is taken off. Add sugar to 
 make up the weight to three-quarters of a 
 pound; j)ut this into a bowl, and pour upon it 
 half a pint of strained lemon-juice. Put the 
 dissolved isinglass into a saucepan, and beat 
 briskly into it the sugar and lemon-juice, to- 
 gether with the crushed shells, and well-whisked 
 whites of four eggs. Place it on a gentle fire, 
 and as soon as it begins to heat discontinue 
 stirring it, and leave it quite still. Let it boil 
 gently for five minutes ; add half a pint of maras- 
 chino, and simmer three or four minutes longer. 
 Take the saucepan from the fire, and let- the 
 preparation remain untouched for a quarter of 
 an hour; then strain it through a jelly-bag till 
 it is quite clear. Put it into a mould which 
 has been soaked till the last moment in cold 
 water, and lay it in a cool place to set. Time, 
 ten minutes to boil the jelly. Probable cost, 
 exclusive of the maraschino, 3s. Sufficient for 
 about three pints of jelly. 
 
 SIMNEL CAKES. 
 
 " It is an old custom," says Dr. Chambers, in 
 his " Book of Days," " in Shropshire and Here- 
 fordshire, and especially at Shrewsbury, to make 
 during Lent and Easter, and also at Christmas, 
 a sort of rich and expensive cakes, which are 
 called Simnel Cakes. They are raised cakes, 
 the crust of which is made of fine flour and 
 water, with sufficient saffron to give it a deep 
 yellow colour, and the interior, is filled with 
 the materials of a very rich plum cake, with 
 plenty of candied lemon-peel and other good 
 things. They are made up very stiff, tied up 
 in a cloth, and boiled for several hours, after 
 which they are brushed over with egg, and then 
 
 baked. When ready for sale, the crust is as 
 hard as if made of wood — a circumstance 
 which has given rise to various stories of 
 the manner in which they have at times been 
 treated by persons to whom they were sent as 
 presents, and who had never seen one before : 
 one ordering his Simnel to be boiled to soften 
 it, and a lady taking hers for a footstool. They 
 are made of different sizes, and, as may be sup- 
 posed from the ingredients, are rather expen- 
 sive, some selling for as much as half-a-guinea, 
 or even a guinea, while smaller ones may be 
 had for half-a-crown. 
 
 " The usage of these cakes is evidently one 
 of great antiquity. It appears from one of the 
 epigrams of the poet Herrick that, at the be- 
 ginning of the seventeenth century, it was the 
 custom at Gloucester for young people to carry 
 Simnels to their mothers on Mid-Lent or 
 Mothering Sunday. It appears also from some 
 other writers of this age, that these Simnels, 
 like the modern ones, were boiled as well as 
 baked," 
 
 SIMNEL YEAST CAKE. 
 
 This is a plainer cake than some of them, and 
 is preferred by many people. Dissolve half an 
 ounce of dried yeast in a gill of lukewarm 
 water, add a spoonful of castor sugar, and work 
 it into half a pound of flour to make a dough. 
 Lay it aside for an hour to rise, then mix with 
 it ten ounces of currants, four ounces of candied 
 peel, two beaten eggs, four ouif'ces of fresh 
 butter beaten to a cream, and a tea-spoonful of 
 mixed spice. These materials are to be well 
 worked in, and the dough left to rise for another 
 hour in a warm place, covered. Then put half 
 of it in a tin lined with a few folds of buttered 
 paper, and on it put a layer of almond icing 
 half an inch thick (see Almond Icing, . roE 
 Cakes) ; the remainder of the cake mixture goes 
 on top of this. Bake for about two hours in a 
 steady oven. When cold the outside of the 
 cake can be coated all over, or on top only, with 
 more almond icing, half an inch thick. Probable 
 cost, 2s. 6d. 
 
 SIMPLE CAKES. 
 
 Hub four ounces of fresh butter into halt a 
 pound of biscuit flour. Add a pinch of salt, 
 three table-spoonfuls of finely-sifted sugar, and 
 a well-beaten fresh egg. Roll the pastry out 
 to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, stamp 
 it into fancy cakes with a cutter, and bake these 
 upon tins in a well-heated oven. Time to bake, 
 about twenty minutes. 
 
 SIMPLE SOUP. 
 
 Cut into very small pieces half a pound of 
 turnips, half a pound of carrots, a quarter of a 
 pound of onions, three or four sticks of celery, 
 and a lettuce. Put these ingredients into a 
 saucepan which has a very closely-fitting lid 
 with four ounces of dissolved butter, and add 
 a bunch of sweet herbs, if liked. Cover the 
 saucepan, and steam its contents over a gentle 
 fire for twenty minutes. Pour upon the vege- 
 tables three pints of stock made from bones ; let 
 this boil, and carefully remove the scum as it 
 rises. Add a pint of freshly-shelled green peas, 
 and simmer all gently together for three hours. 
 Eub the preparation through a sieve, boil it up 
 pnce more, add pepper and salt, and serve. 
 
SIM 
 
 823 
 
 SKA 
 
 Time, four hours. Probable cost, 8d. per pint.- 
 Sufficient for eight or nine persons. 
 
 SIMPLE SOUP (another way). 
 
 Take three quarts of good gravy. Put it into 
 a saucepan with two carrots, three or four tur- 
 nips, three or four potatoes, some celery, let- 
 tuce, endive, parsley, and a piece of butter, with 
 a little flour. Stew till the vegetables become 
 quite tender, so as to permit them to be rubbed 
 through a sieve, after which let them be put 
 back to the soup. Stew again for about a 
 quarter of an hour, and season to taste. If 
 too strong, add a little water. 
 SINGE, TO. 
 
 To singe poultry or game is to burn ofE the 
 hairs which remain after the bird is plucked. 
 The most usual way of doing this is to pass a 
 piece of lighted paper over the body of the 
 bird till the desired end is attained. The best 
 way is to pass the plucked bird over a lighted 
 spirit-lamp. When performing the operation 
 care should be taken not to blacken the bird. 
 
 SIPPETS FOR GARNISHING DISHES. 
 
 Ordinary sippets are simply made by cutting 
 stale bread into slices the third of an inch 
 thick, toasting these on both sides to a bright 
 brown, cutting them into small three-cornered 
 pieces, and placing them round the dish. When 
 properly made, they are fried in hot fat until 
 brown and crisp, instead of being toasted, and 
 are then drained and dried for use. In order to 
 make them stick to the dish, make a paste with 
 the whisked white of an egg beaten up with 
 a little flour ; brush the under part of the sippet 
 with the paste, and stick it on the dish. If the 
 latter is very hot, the sippets will not adhere. 
 
 SIPPETS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 Cut a slice of stale bread. Toast it on both 
 sides to a bright brown colour; cut it into 
 small shapes, and lay these side by side on a 
 dish. Pour upon them as much strong beef, 
 mutton, or veal gravy, perfectly freed from fat, 
 as they will absorb. Sprinkle a little salt over, 
 and serve. Sippets thus simply prepared are 
 often enjoyed by invalids who cannot partake 
 of fresh meat. 
 
 SIPPETS, SUPERLATIVE. 
 
 Cut slices the third of an inch thick from a 
 stale loaf. Trim away the crust, lay the bread 
 on a dish, and pour upon it as much cream or 
 good milk as it will absorb. Let it soak for an 
 hour, then take it up carefully, and fry it in 
 hot fat till it is lightly browned. Drain, and 
 serve hot. Or out the crumb of a stale loaf into 
 slices as thin as a sixpence; stamp these into 
 fancy shapes, and fry in hot fat till crisp. 
 Sippets thus made are useful for making borders 
 to dishes, and may be fixed in position with a 
 paste made with white of egg and flour. 
 
 SIRLOIN OF BEEF. 
 
 Choose, in the first place, a well-covered sir- 
 loin, not weighing more than twenty or twenty- 
 four pounds — a large piece is never well roasted ; 
 the time which it requires causes the outside 
 to be too much done, while the middle remains 
 quite raw. The meat must be covered for one 
 hour only with paper, to prevent its taking too 
 much colour. It is necessary to observe that 
 
 for large pieces the fire must not be too sharp^ 
 or the meat will be burned before it is warmed 
 through. Just before you take it off the spit 
 spread some fine salt over it, and send it up 
 very hot with gravy only. This joint is often 
 spoiled for the next day's use by an injudicious 
 mode of carving. If you object to the outside 
 out, take the brown off, and help yourself to the 
 next; by thus cutting it only on one side, you 
 preserve the gravy in the meat, and the goodly 
 appearance likewise; by cutting it, on the con- 
 trary, across the middle of the joint, all the 
 gravy runs out, and it remains dry and void of 
 substance, besides exhibiting a most unseemly 
 aspect when brought to table a second time. 
 
 SIRLOIN OF BEEF, ROASTED. 
 
 Sirloin of beef is, of all the parts, the most 
 delicate. When the piece is very big the fire 
 must be more moderate, as it is a long time 
 before the middle becomes warm. If the fire is 
 sharp, the meat will be burnt on the outside and 
 quite raw in the middle. Another necessary ob- 
 servation is, that when you put the spit too low, 
 the meat loses a great deal of the heat, receiving 
 it only from the top : to keep down the colour^ 
 it is better to cover the joint with a few sheets of 
 white paper, and uncover it only when the meat 
 is nearly done. Take care, however, not to cover 
 the meat too closely — merely paper the part that 
 faces the fire — otherwise the beef will not be 
 roasted, but broiled. (See also the observa- 
 tions in the previous paragraph, Sieloin op 
 Beef.) 
 
 SIRLOIN OF BEEF, TO CARVE. 
 
 (See Beep, Sibloin of. To Caeye). 
 
 SKATE. 
 
 . The skate is a fish of the ray tribe, excellent 
 and wholesome. It may generally be had at a 
 comparatively low price, and perhaps on this 
 account is not so highly esteemed as it ought 
 to be. It is more highly valued in France'than. 
 in England. The young skate are called 
 " maids," and their flesh is tender and delicate. 
 Skate should always be skinned however it is 
 dressed. The fin or wing is the part generally 
 used. The liver is much prized. In cool 
 weather the skate is improved by being kept 
 a couple of days, and is still further improved 
 by crimping, though it should be remembered 
 that it will not keep so well when this is done. 
 Skate is unwholesome out of season. It is in 
 season in autumn and winter. 
 
 SKATE (k la Bourgeoisie). 
 
 Take two pounds of skate, wash it, and cut 
 it into convenient pieces for serving. Take the 
 trimmings and put them into a pan with rather 
 less than a pint of water, bring to the boil, 
 and skim; add an onion sliced and a bouquet 
 garni, simmer half an hour, and strain. Heat 
 one ounce and a half of butter, stir an ounce 
 of flour into it, and let it brown, add the stock 
 made from the trimmings, a tea-spoonful of 
 lemon-juice, a glass of white wine, and the 
 pieces of skate. Season to taste, and simmer 
 for a quarter of an hour or more, until the 
 fish is cooked. Dish up, reduce the stock and 
 strain it over the skate. Garnish, with croiitons 
 of bread, and serve hot. Probable cost, 4d. to 
 6d. per pound. 
 
SKA 
 
 824 
 
 SKA 
 
 SKATE (h la St. Mgnihould). 
 
 Cut the skate into neat pieces, and simmer it 
 in white sauoe till done enough. Lay the fish 
 on a dish, sprinkle seasoned bread-crumbs over 
 it and a little grated Parmesan or Cheshire 
 cheese. Put it in a brisk oven, or before the 
 fire, till the surface is brightly browned, and 
 serve hot. 
 SKATE (au beurre noir), an excellent dish. 
 
 Take about two pounds of white skate, wash 
 it, and boil it in water with salt and a little 
 vinegar; five minutes before it is done enough, 
 put the liver in with it, and boil it also. Take 
 up the fish, skin it on both sides, lay it on a hot 
 dish, and keep it hot for a few minutes. Dis- 
 
 CltlJlPED SKATE. 
 
 solve six ounces of fresh butter in a saucepan, 
 and stir it over a brisk fire till it is brown 
 without being burnt. Throw about fifty leaves 
 of picked parsley into it, and when these are 
 crisp pour the butter over the fish. Put a 
 large wine-glassful of common vinegar into the 
 saucepan with a little pepper and salt. Let it 
 boil for half a minute, pour it also over the fish, 
 and serve very hot. lime altogether, about half 
 an hour. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 SKATE, BOILED. 
 
 Let the skate hang a couple of days, then skin 
 it, and cut it into pieces about four inches 
 square — some cut out of the thick part, and 
 some out of the thin. Tie the pieces with string 
 to preserve the shape, and put first the thick 
 pieces, and a couple of minutes afterwards the 
 thin pieces, into a fish-kettle with boiling water 
 which has been prepared for the fish by the 
 addition of a handful of salt, two table-spoon- 
 fuls of vinegar, and a sliced onion, to a gallon 
 of water. Boil the fish gently until done 
 enough. The time required will depend upon 
 the thickness. The liver, which is highly prized, 
 should be boiled separately, and served at the 
 side, or finely chopped and mixed with parsley 
 and butter. Good melted butter flavoured with 
 lemon-juice, caper sauce, shrimp sauce, or 
 anchovy sauce, may all be served with skate, 
 or there may be a sauce prepared as follows. 
 Dissolve four ounces of butter in a small sauce- 
 pan, and stir in with it a tea-spoonful of 
 chopped parsley and a table-spoonful of vinegar. 
 Simmer three minutes, and serve. Time to boil 
 the skate, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable 
 cost, 4d. to ed. per pound. 
 
 SKATE, BOILED IN STOCK. 
 
 Skin a skate, and cut it into square pieces. 
 TaJce as much stock in which fish has been 
 
 boiled, or veal stock, as will cover the skate, 
 and simmer it gently for an hour with the 
 trimmings of the fish, the shell of a lobster or 
 crab thoroughly cleansed, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, and two or three sliced onions. Strain 
 and thicken the stock with brown thickening, 
 and add pepper and salt, a little ketchup and 
 soy, and a glass of claret. Put in the skate, 
 and boil it until done. Serve it with the sauce 
 poured over. Time to boil the skate, fifteen to 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. per 
 pound. 
 SKATE, CHOOSING OF. 
 
 Skate varies in quality more than most fish. 
 The best is broad and thick, prickly on the 
 back, with the dark side brown and healthy- 
 looking, and the under-side of a delicate 
 creamy whitene«S' Large iish are firmer and 
 altogether more profitable than small fish, 
 having more flesh in proportion to the quantity 
 of gristle. The upper akin should be removed, 
 and it should be stripped off from the middle 
 outwards. If skate has a strange smell, un- 
 like the ordinary smell of fish, it should be 
 discarded as dangerous. 
 
 "Skate," says Dr. Kitchener, "is a very 
 good fish when it is in good season, but no 
 fish so bad when it is otherwise. Those persons 
 who like it firm and dry should have it crimped, 
 but those who like it tender should have it 
 plain, and ate not earlier than the second day; 
 and, if cold weather, three or four days old 
 it is better; it cannot be kept too long if per- 
 fectly sweet. Skate, if young, eats very fine 
 crimped and fried."- 
 SKATE, CRIMPED. 
 
 Skin the skate on both sides, cut it in strips 
 the length of the fish and an inch broad, roll 
 each length round the finger, and tie it with 
 thread. Lay the rolled strips for an hour or two 
 in salted water mixed with a table-spoonful of 
 vinegar, or in cold spring water. Fish to be 
 crimped should be taken as soon as possible 
 after it is dead. The inhuman practice of 
 crimping it while alive cannot be too strongly 
 deprecated. Crimped skate is generally sold cut 
 in slices, which should be rolled and tied with 
 string, with a little piece of the liver in each 
 roll. Put the fish into fast-boiling salted water, 
 and boil it gently until done enough. Take it 
 up, drain it, remove the string, and serve on a 
 napkin with one of the sauces recommended for 
 boiled skate in a tureen, or without a napkin 
 and with the sauce poured over it. Time, fifteen 
 to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. 
 per pound. 
 
 SKATE, CURRIED. 
 
 Curried skate requires to be cooked very care- 
 fully, or it will drop to pieces. Boil two pounds 
 of skate with a little of the liver ; drain it well, 
 and put it on a dish. Whilst the fish is boiling, 
 slice two onions and an apple, and fry them 
 in a little butter till soft. Eub them patiently, 
 through a sieve, and mix smoothly with the 
 pulp a tea-spoonful of curry-powder, a dessert- 
 spoonful of curry-paste, a tea-spoonful of 
 ground rice, and about a pint of stock. Boil 
 the sauce, and stir it frequently. When it is 
 thick and smooth pour it upon the fish in the 
 dish, and send rice boiled for curry to table in 
 
SKA 
 
 825 
 
 SKA 
 
 a tureen. Time, about twenty minutes to boil 
 the fish. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. per pound. 
 
 SKATE, DRESSED, TO RE'COOK. 
 
 Pick the flesh from the bones, mince finely, 
 and mix with it its bulk in finely-grated bread- 
 crumbs. Add a seasoning of salt, pepper, and 
 grated nutmeg; moisten the preparation with 
 butter, and mix in a little chopped parsley^ 
 Beat it till smooth, bind it together with yolk 
 of egg, and form it into the sn.aj)e of corks or 
 balls. Fry these in hot fat, drain them, and 
 serve on a neatly-folded napkin. Time to fry, 
 ten minutes. 
 
 SKATE, FRIED. 
 
 Cut the skate into square pieces; let these 
 lie for an hour in cold water with a little vine- 
 gar or lemon-juice, a sprig of parsley, and a 
 few peppercorns, drain, dry, and flour them, dip 
 them in egg and bread-crumbs, and fry them in 
 hot dripping till they are lightly browned. 
 Send brown sauce, tomato, piquant, or caper 
 sauce to table with them, lime, eight to ten 
 minutes, according to thickness. If skate is 
 too much done it is spoiled. 
 SKATE, FRIED (another way). 
 
 When the fish are very small, pickle them in 
 vinegar, salt, pepper, a sliced onion, some pars- 
 ley, and lemon-juice, for about an hour. Next 
 drain them, and dip them into an omelet, and 
 then into flour. Then fry them in hot dripping, 
 and send them up either with or without sauce. 
 "When skate are boiled with the pickle in which 
 they have been steeped, the skin must remain 
 while boiling, otherwise the colour of the mari- 
 nade will dye the fish ; take off the skin after 
 the skate are done, and dress immediately. 
 
 SKATE, FRIED, TO EAT COLD. 
 
 Put the skate into boiling water, and boil it 
 for five minutes; take it up, drain and dry it, 
 and dip it into egg and bread-crumbs. Pry it 
 slowly in hot fat, let it get cold, and serve 
 garnished with parsley. Send mustard, pepper, 
 and vinegar to table with it. 
 SKATE, MARINADED. 
 
 Remove the skin on both sides, and divide 
 the fish into slices two or three inches long and 
 an inch broad. Lay these in a dish, pour vine- 
 gar over them, and add a little pepper and 
 salt, a bunch of parsley, and a slice4 onion. 
 Xiet the fish soak for some hours ; when wanted, 
 drain the pieces, dip them in flour, and fry 
 them in hot dripping till they are brightly 
 browned. Send them to table in a hot dish, 
 garnished with fried parsley. Send caper sauce 
 to table with them. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. 
 per pound. 
 SKATE, SAUCES FOR. 
 
 The following sauces may all be served with 
 skate. White sauce, melted butter, onion 
 sauce, parsley sauce, shrimp sauce, anchovy 
 sauce, tomato sauce, piquant sauce, and liver 
 sauce. Well-made black butter sauce is excel- 
 lent with skate. (See Skate, with Black 
 Butter). Caper sauce is, perhaps, the sauce 
 most usually served. 
 
 SKATE SOUP. 
 
 The bones of skate are so delicate and gristly 
 tHat they can easily be converted to jelly; con- 
 
 sequently, good nourishing soup may be made 
 of this fish. Clean two pounds of skate, and 
 hang it in the open air for a day ; cut it into ' 
 small neat fillets, and put the trimmings and 
 the head into a saucepan with two quarts of 
 fish stock or water. Let it simmer gently for 
 an hour, and carefully remove the scum as it 
 rises; then add an onion, a turnip, a bunch of 
 parsley, and a few sticks of celery, and simmer 
 all gently together till the liquor is reduced to 
 one quart. When this point is reached, the 
 soup may be finished m two ways : either 
 thicken the broth with a little brown thickening, 
 add the fillets, simmer them till done enough, 
 and flavour the soup with a dessert-spoonful of 
 ketchuj), a glass of sherry, and pepper and salt 
 if required; or drop two ounces of vermicelli 
 into the soup, and when it is done enough, 
 which it will be in a few minutes, mix with the 
 soup a quarter of a pint of cream beaten up with 
 the yolk of an egg, stir it over the fire for eight 
 or ten minutes, but on no Account allow it to 
 boil, and serve very hot. When the soup is 
 finished in the latter of these two ways, it is well 
 to boil all the skate in the stock, and thus dis- 
 pense with the fillets. Time, two hours and a 
 half. Probable cost. Is. 4d. per pint. Sufiicient 
 for six or eight persons. 
 
 SKATE SOUP (a maigre soup). 
 
 Take four pounds of skate, and boil it in 
 four quarts of water till -the water is reduced 
 one-half; then add six onions, some turnips, 
 celery, carrots, sweet herbs, and parsley. When 
 boiled enough, strain, and thicken with butter 
 • rolled in flour. Fry the inside of a roll, chop 
 up some of the fish with a little parsley and 
 butter, and add these to the soup before serving. 
 Two or three anchovies, some anchovy sauce, 
 or a red herring may be boiled in this soup with- 
 out destroying its maigre character. 
 
 SKATE, STEWED. 
 
 Skin the skate on both sides, and cut it into 
 neat pieces; fry these in hot fat till they are 
 nicely browned ; take them up, drain them, and 
 lay them aside. Put the head, skin, and trim- 
 mings into a saucepan with two pints of water, 
 an onion, and a little pepper and salt. Let 
 the gravy simmer gently tul it is strong, then 
 strain it ; put it back into the saucepan, thicken 
 with brown thickening, and add half a dozen 
 chives or a moderate-sized onion finely minced, 
 two table-spoonfuls of finely-chopped parsley, a 
 table-spoonful of chilli vinegar, a table-spoonful 
 of mushroom ketchup, and a table-spoonful of 
 Harvey's sauce. Let the sauce boil till it is 
 thick enough to coat the spoon ; heat the fish in 
 it, and serve. Time, five or six minutes to heat 
 the fish. 
 SKATE, TO CLEAN AND PREPARE. 
 
 Wash the fish, and rub them over with salt. 
 Einse them, cut off the tails, and pare the fins 
 all round. Hang them in a cool airy situation. 
 They will keep three or four days in cool 
 weather. 
 SKATE, WITH BLACK BUTTER. 
 
 Fry some parsley very green. Dish the skate 
 according to taste. For a first-course dish the 
 fish should be cut into slices. Put the fried 
 parsley in the middle of the dish, and the 
 
SKA 
 
 826 
 
 SLO 
 
 iutter under the fish. Beurre noir is made ia 
 an omelet-pan. Put a quarter of a pound of 
 ■ butter into the pan, and let it become very 
 brown without burning; skim ofE the froth; 
 add to it salt, pepper, and vinegar, and pour 
 this over the fish, and the fried parsley in the 
 centre. This dish does not look well, but it is 
 relishing when well done. 
 
 SKATE, WITH BLACK BUTTER SAUCE, 
 EXCELLENT. 
 
 Take about two pounds of white skate. Wash 
 it well, and put it into a saucepan with as much 
 cold water as will barely cover it, a cupful of 
 vinegar, a sliced onion, a bunch of parsley, and 
 a little pepper and salt. Bring the liquor 
 gently to the boil, skim it, then draw the sauce- 
 pan to the side, and let its contents simmer 
 gently for ten minutes. Five minutes before 
 the skate is done enough put in the liver, and 
 boil it also. Take up the skate, drain and trim 
 it, and skin it on both sides. Put it on a dish, 
 sprinkle a little salt and pepper on it, place 
 the liver on the side, and garnish with fried 
 parsley. Have ready prepared a little brown 
 butter sauce ; pour this over the fish, and serve 
 immediately. The sauce may be made as fol- 
 lows. Put four ounces of fresh butter into a 
 saucepan, and stir it over a sharp fire till it is 
 brown, without being burnt. Add two table- 
 spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, two table-spoon- 
 fuls of Harvey's sauce, a table-spoonful of 
 bruised capers, a quarter of a pint of brown 
 sauce, and half a tea-spoonful of essence of 
 anchovies. Simmer all gently for five minutes, 
 and serve. Time altogether, about three-quar- 
 ters of an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 
 skate, 4d. to 6d. per pound. Sufilcient for four 
 or five persons. {See also Skate, au beubbe 
 NorE.) 
 
 SKATE, WITH CAPER SAUCE. 
 
 Take two or three pieces of white skate. Roll 
 them up, and tie them with string; then put 
 them into fast-boiling water with salt and a 
 little vinegar, and boil them gently until done 
 enough. Five minutes before they are done put 
 in the liver, and boil it with them. Take up 
 the fish, drain it, and put it on a hot dish. 
 Make three-quarters of a pint of good melted 
 butter in a saucepan ; stir into it while boiling 
 two table-spoonfuls of bruised capers, pour the 
 sauce over the fish, and serve hot. Time to boil 
 the fish, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 4d. 
 to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 SKATE, WITH CAPER SAUCE (another way). 
 
 Boil the skate in a vessel with water, vinegar, 
 salt, pepper, a sliced onion, parsley, green 
 onions, bay-leaves, and thyme. When done, 
 pick it neatly, and remove it into another clean 
 yessel ; pour over it some of the liquor in which 
 it has been boiling, then drain it, and send it 
 up to table, either entire or in pieces, with 
 caper sauce in, a tureen, or poured over the fish 
 if preferred. 
 
 SKATE, WITH LIVER SAUCE. 
 
 Boil the skate, as in recipe Skate, with 
 Black BtriTEn Sauce. Skim it, serve on a hot 
 dish without a napkin, and pour over it 'a sauce 
 prepared as follows. Boil the liver of the skate 
 
 for five minutes, drain it, and bruise it in a 
 mortar. Moisten with a little of the liquor, 
 and rub it through a sieve. Dissolve a slice of 
 fresh butter in a saucepan over a brisk fire, and 
 stir into it three or four mushrooms chopped 
 small, a small bunch of parsley picked and finely 
 shredded, and a clove of garlic minced (the 
 ld.tter may be omitted, and a shallot or a 
 small onion substituted for it). Dredge a 
 table-spoonful of flour over these ingredients, 
 and add the prepared liver, the fliesh of an an- 
 chovy, a table-spoonful of bruised capers, and 
 half a pint of stock made from bones. Stir the 
 sauce over the fire for a few minutes, add a 
 little more thickening if necessary, and pour 
 it upon the fish. Time altogether, three-quar- 
 ters of an hour. 
 
 SKIRRET. 
 
 This is a perennial plant, a native of China, 
 known in this country since 1548. The root is 
 composed of fleshy tubers about the size of the 
 little finger, and joined together at the crown 
 or head. They used to be much esteemed in 
 cookery. In the northern districts of Scotland 
 the plant is cultivated under the name of 
 " crummock." The tubers, when boiled, are- 
 served with butter. They were declared by 
 Worlidge, in 1682, to be "the sweetest, whitest, 
 and most pleasant of roots." Skirrets come the 
 nearest to parsnips of any of the esculent roots, 
 both for flavour and nutritive quality. They 
 are rather sweeter than the parsnip, and there- 
 fore to some palates are not so agreeable. 
 
 SKIRTS, BEEF, TO STEW, WITH KIDNEYS. 
 
 An ox kidney, or a pig's kidneys, may be used 
 for this dish. Take equal weights of kidney and 
 beef skirts. Cut the kidneys into slices. Skin 
 the skirts, and divide them into small square 
 pieces. Fry both in beef dripping till they are 
 equally and lightly browned. Drain them, and 
 put them into a saucepan with as much stock 
 as will cover them, a finely-minced onion, and 
 a little pepper and salt. Simmer all very gently 
 together till the meat is tender. Thicken the 
 gravy with a little brown thickening; add a 
 table-spoonful of any good store sauce, and 
 serve. Two or three slices of bread, fried till 
 crisp in the same fat as the meat, then cut into 
 sippets and put round the dish, will be a great 
 improvement. Time, one hour to simmer the 
 meat. Probable cost. Is. per pound. 
 
 SLEEPING CUP. 
 
 Boil half a, dozen cloves, half a dozen corian- 
 der-seeds, and half an inch of stick cinnamon 
 in half a pint of water till the liquor is 
 pleasantly flavoured. Strain it, put it into a 
 tumbler, and stir briskly into it a quarter of a 
 pint of fine old Jamaica rum. Add sugar to 
 taste, and serve. 
 
 SLOE GIN. 
 
 Chop a quarter of an ounce of bitter almonds 
 very fine, and crush three-quarters of a pound' 
 of sugar candy. Take two pounds of sloes, 
 which should be bruised or pricked all over, a 
 quart of Old Tom gin, and a quarter of a pound 
 of sugar. Put all these ingredients into a small 
 cask, stir very thoroughly, and in three months' 
 time strain until quite clear, and bottle. Prob- 
 able cost, 5s. 
 
SLO 
 
 827 
 
 SME 
 
 SLOE, OR SLOE-THORN. 
 
 The leaves of the sloe are used for adulterat- 
 ing tea. The fruit, which is very austere, is 
 much employed on the Continent of Europe for 
 making a preserve, and also in some places for 
 making a kind of tea. The juice is much used 
 to impart roughness to port wine, and in the 
 fabrication of spurious port. 
 
 SLOE WINE. 
 
 Procure sloes which are sound and ripe. Look 
 them carefully over, and reject all that are 
 bruised and decayed. Pick off the stalks, put 
 the sloes into a large pan, and pour a gallon 
 of boiling water upon every gallon of sloes. 
 Let them soak for five days, stirring them well 
 every day. Put four pounds of good loaf sugar 
 to each gallon of liquor, and when it is dis- 
 solved, put the whole into a cask with a pint 
 of spirit to each gallon and a half of liquor. 
 If the wine is allowed to remain in the cask 
 for a considerable length ot time it will become 
 almost equal to port. Time to keep the wine in 
 the cask, at least twelve months. 
 
 SLY BREAD, OR BREAD FRITTERS (an economicar 
 and excellent sweet dish). 
 Beat three eggs without frothing them ; 
 sweeten, and flavour them with lemou-riud, 
 orange-flower or rose-water, or any other flavour- 
 ing, and add a table-spoonful of good brandy or 
 rum. Cut some stale crumb of bread into slices 
 the third of an inch thick, stamp them into 
 small fancy shapes with a cutter, put them into 
 the mixture, and let them soak till they have 
 absorbed as much of the eggs as possible. Lift 
 them up carefully with a slice, and fry them in 
 hot fat just as pancakes or fritters are fried. 
 Pile them on a dish* sprinkle powdered white 
 sugar thickly over them, and serve very hot. 
 Pew persons at first sight would suspect the 
 composition of this dish, which is simple and 
 good. It may be varied by taking slices of 
 common cake with currants and raisins instead 
 of bread; or, if liked, the bread may first be 
 soaked in milk, and afterwards dipped in the 
 egg batter. Time to fry, about five minutes. 
 
 SLY CAKES. 
 
 . Mix together three-quarters of a pound of 
 flour, one ounce and a half of castor sugar, a 
 pinch of salt, and a pinch of mixed spice ; make 
 it into a stiff paste with a little cold water, 
 and roll it out three times, two ounces of fat 
 being spread over it each time as if for pastry. 
 Roll out thinly, and cut into squares or rounds. 
 Take a table-spoonful of currants that have been 
 •moistened with rum, and sprinkle them on half 
 the pieces, then cover them in sandwich fashion, 
 brush them over with sugar and water to glaze, 
 and bake in a hot oven. These cakes may be 
 eaten either hot or cold. Probable cost. Is. 
 per dozen. 
 
 SMALL BIRDS, BROILED. 
 
 Pick the birds carefully so as not to tear the 
 skin. Split them open down the back, flatten 
 them, lay them on a clean gridiron which has 
 been heated and rubbed yith mutton suet, the 
 inside to the fire. Place the gridiron rather 
 high above the fire. When nearly done through 
 turn the birds, and let them remain until 
 the outside is brightly browned. Put them on 
 
 a hot dish, butter them, sprinkle pepper and salt 
 upon them, and serve quickly. A French cook, 
 would sprinkle pepper and salt upon them, and 
 brush them over with butter, before laying them' 
 on the gridiron. 
 
 SMALL BIRDS, FRIED. 
 
 When the birds cannot conveniently be broiled, 
 they may be fried as follows. Pluck the birds 
 carefully, split them open, and flatten them; 
 sprinkle salt and pepper upon them, and roll 
 them in bread-raspings. Dissolve a small slice 
 of fresh butter in a frying-pan ; when it is hot^ 
 lay the birds in it, and fry them nicely. Put 
 them on a hot dish. Add a table-spoonful of 
 boiling water to the gravy in the pan, let it 
 boil up once, strain it into the dish, and servo 
 very hot. 
 
 SMALL BISCUITS. 
 
 Beat the white of one egg to a stiff froth, 
 add to it half a pound of castor sugar, and, 
 flavour with essence of almonds. Mix to a 
 thick white paste. Cover the baking sheet 
 with greased paper, and with a sniall spoon 
 drop pieces of the mixture on this, keeping 
 them half an inch apart. Set in a moderate 
 oven till they change colour, then take from 
 the oven and let them get cold. Eemove from 
 the paper with a knife. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. 
 
 SMALL CAKES. 
 
 Rub six ounces of butter into fifteen ounces 
 of flour, adding a tea-spoonful of baking- 
 powder beforehand. Add half a pound of castor 
 sugar, and the beaten yolks of three eggs with 
 the whites of two. Flavour with half a tea- 
 spoonful of vanilla essence. Mix thoroughly, 
 di'vide into pieces the size of a walnut, dip each 
 with a fork into the remaining white of egg. 
 Roll in chopped almonds, and bake in a brisk 
 oven. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 SMELTS. 
 
 The smelt is a small, delicately-flavoured 
 fish, highly esteemed, which, when per- 
 fectly fresh and good, possesses an odour, 
 said by some to resemble that of a violet, 
 by others that of a freshly-cut cucumber. It 
 loses this perfume about twelve- hours after it 
 is taken. It may be dressed in various ways, of 
 which frying is the most usual ; it should never 
 be quite plainly boiled, though the recipe for 
 boiling smelts for invalids will be found exoel- 
 dent. Smelts are much used to garnish large 
 fish, such as turbot or cod, but they may also 
 be served alone. When fresh, the gills are red 
 and the eyes bright and full; the body, too, is 
 of a silvery hue. They are in season from 
 October to May. They fehould be handled aa 
 little as possible; should not be washed, but 
 wiped with a soft cloth; and in drawing them 
 the gills should be pulled gently out, and the 
 inside with them, as the fish must not be 
 opened. The roe should be left inside. When 
 split and dried, smelts are called sparlings. 
 
 SMELTS, BAKED (au Gratin). 
 
 Take a dozen smelts, clean and drjr them, and 
 trim away the fins. Butter a pie-dish thickly, 
 and sprinkle on the bottom finely-grated bread- 
 crumbs seasoned with pepper and salt, finely- 
 chopped parsley, and shallot. Put the smelts 
 
SME 
 
 828 
 
 SNA 
 
 in the dish in a low, sprinkle seasoned bread- 
 crumbs on the top, and pour upon the fish a 
 glassful of sherry, a dessert-spoonful of lemon- 
 juice, and half a tea-spoonful of essence of an- 
 chovy. Place little pieces of butter here and 
 there on the fish, ana bake them in a moderate 
 oven. When done enough, serve the smelts 
 quite hot in the dish in which they were baked. 
 Time, a quarter of an hour to bake the smelts. 
 Probable cost. Is. to 2s. per dozen. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. 
 SMELTS, BOILED, FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 Take a couple of large smelts, draw them 
 carefully, and wipe them gently with a soft 
 cloth; put a quarter of a pint of water into a 
 saucepan with a pinch of salt, a small lump of 
 sugar, and about fifty jiicked parsley-leaves. 
 When the water boils put in the smelts, and let 
 them simmer gently until done enough. Take 
 them up carefully on a slicer, lay them on a 
 dish, and pour the liquor in which they were 
 boiled over them. Be watchful that the fish 
 does not bum to the bottom of the saucepan. 
 If liked, the gravy may be thickened with half 
 a tea-spoonful of arrowroot, to be put with it 
 when the sauce has simmered three minutes. 
 Time to simmer the fish, five minutes, or longer 
 if the smelts are unusually large. Probable 
 cost, 6d. Sufficient for one person. 
 
 SMELTS, BROILED OR GRILLED. 
 
 Draw carefully and wipe a couple of large 
 smelts, flour them well, and lay them on a 
 gridiron over a gentle fire. When half done 
 turn them carefully upon the other side. When 
 they are done enough put them on a hot dish, 
 sprinkle a little salt upon them, and serve im- 
 mediately. A cut lemon or a little anchovy 
 sauce may be sent to table with them, if pre- 
 ferred. Time, five or six minutes. Probable 
 cost, about 2d. each. Sufficient for one person. 
 
 SMELTS, FRIED. 
 
 Draw and wipe the smelts, trim off the fins, 
 soak the fish in milk, and flour them well ; or, if 
 preferred, flour them, and then dip them in 
 beaten egg and bread-raspings. Fry in hot fat 
 till they are crisp and brown. Take them up 
 carefully with a slicer, drain them on blotting- 
 paper, sprinkle a little salt over them, and serve 
 on a napkin on a dish. Put half a lemon at 
 each end of the dish, and garnish with fried 
 parsley. If liked, the lemon may be omitted, 
 and shrimp or Tartar sauce may be served with 
 the smelts. Time to fry the smelts, three to 
 five minutes. Probable cost. Is. to 2s. per dozen. 
 Sufficient, a dozen for five or six persons. 
 
 SMELTS, FRIED (another way). 
 
 Smelts are usually fried. Clean and empty 
 them, wipe them dry, and egg and bread-crumb 
 them. Fry them of a fine colour, and send 
 them to table garnished with fried parsley. 
 Smelts may also be prepared au gratin like 
 soles. 
 
 SMELTS, WITH ANCHOVIES AND CAPERS. 
 , Boil a couple of anchovies until dissolved 
 in a gill of white wine, and strain this into 
 the same quantity of rich brown stock. Season 
 ■with onions and parsley, a blade of mace, a 
 bay-leaf, and pepper and salt. Put eight large 
 emelts into this, and stew gently for a quarter 
 
 of an hour. Take out the onions, parsley, etc., 
 and add a spoonful of capers. Make it boiling 
 hot, and squeeze in the juice of an orange or 
 lemon. Take out the fish very tenderly and put 
 them on- a hot plate. Put a little finely-minced 
 ■ parsley^ into the sauce, and pour it over the 
 smelts. 
 
 SMOKED BEEF (American). 
 
 Put the beef in brine, and turn and rub it 
 every day for ten days. Hang it in a chimney 
 over a sawdust fire or a smothered wood fire, 
 and let it remain for a fortnight. Bub it over 
 in every part with black pepper, and hang it 
 in a cool, dry, airy situation. When once it 
 has been cut keep it covered with thick paper. 
 When it is to be served, pare off the outside 
 skin and shave it into thin chips. If very salt, 
 soak it in boiling water for a few minutes. 
 For half a pound of beef dissolve a- small slice 
 of butter or lard in a frying-pan, stir in the 
 beef, pepper it well, and when it begins to fizz 
 dredge a large tea-spoonful of flour upon it. 
 Pour over it a quarter of a pint of boiling stock 
 or water;, stir until the sauce thickens, and 
 serve very hot. If preferred, two or three fresh 
 eggs may be broken into the pan with the beef 
 and gravy, and the whole stirred briskly until 
 the eggs are set. 
 
 SMOKED MEAT, HASH OF. 
 
 Take some carrots, and cut them into long 
 strips or little dice; stew them till quite soft 
 in broth with salt and butter. Brown a little 
 flour in butter, and drain the broth from the 
 carrots into it. Add to the preparation a little 
 vinegar, sugar, and pepper; stir and boil it 
 till it forms a creamy sauce. Take remains of 
 smoked meat, and cut it into small dice or 
 sices ; add these to the carrot, pour in the sauce, 
 stir the hash well, and let it stew for a quarter 
 of an hour. If liked, a minced onion may be 
 stewed with the carrots. This dish should be 
 served with potatoes or klosse. 
 
 SNAIL, EDIBLE. 
 
 The edible snail of the South of Europe is 
 found in the chalk and oolite districts of the 
 South of England, where it is said to have 
 been introduced from the Continent in the 
 seventeenth century. This, however, is very 
 doubtful. It has a shell about two inches in 
 diameter and two inches in height, whitish or 
 pale tawny, with four darker bands, often not 
 very distinct. By the ancient Romans it was 
 much esteemed as an article of food : they 
 fattened their snails in enclosures made for the 
 purpose, and fed them daintily on meal andv 
 boiled wine. It is still in much esteem for the 
 table in various parts of Europe, and is occa- 
 sionally used in England. The common garden 
 snail is probably as good eating as the edible 
 snail, though it is not so large. 
 
 SNAPDRAGON. 
 
 This is a Christmas dish of very easy prepara- 
 tion, and the central feature of a favourite 
 Christmas sport. "A quantity of raisins are 
 deposited in a large dish or bowl (the broader 
 and shallower this is the better), and brandy or 
 some other spirit is poured over the fruit and 
 ignited. The bystanders now endeavour by 
 turns to grasp a raisin by plunging their hands 
 
SNI 
 
 829 
 
 SNI 
 
 through the flames ; and as this is somewhat of 
 an arduous feat, requiring both courage and 
 rapidity of action, a considerahle amount of 
 laughter is evoked at the expense of the unsuc- 
 cessful competitors." 
 
 SNIPE. 
 
 The snipe is a migratory bird. Like woodcock, 
 snipes, after being plucked and singed and the 
 head skinned, are not emptied, but are roasted 
 with everything in them as they succumbed 
 to fate. The thigh is more highly esteemed 
 than any other part. They are in season from 
 Kovember to February, but are most abundant 
 and fattest in frosty weather. They frequent 
 marshy meadows, and, during frost, the edges 
 of rushy hills, and feed on worms and insects. 
 The snipe is decidedly inferior to the woodcock. 
 Mr. Galtou advises that, when rank birds are 
 shot, they should be skinned, not plucked, as 
 much of the rankness lies in the skin. The 
 breast and wings are the least objectionable 
 parts, and, if there is abundance of food, should 
 alone be cooked. 
 
 SNIPE, CURRIED. 
 
 Some people may consider it a sacrifice to 
 curry snipe, but " a trial would abolish all 
 such scruples, for a more delectable dish it 
 would be difficult to discover." The snipe is 
 worthy of the best curry sauce, the nicest gravy 
 or stock being used for its foundation, and not 
 a moment longer than is necessary for the 
 cooking should it remain on the fire; neither 
 should the pan be uncovered, or the aroma and 
 flavour will suffer. 
 
 In making, the sauce, the worst parts of the 
 birds should be stewed for stock. That and 
 some good brown sauce, or game gravy, may 
 form the foundation. Plenty of rice should 
 be served with it. Should a little fumet of 
 game be in the larder, it will greatly improve 
 the curry. 
 
 SNIPE PIE. 
 
 Parboil the birds in stock and a little white 
 wine, seasoned with a grated onion, pepper, 
 salt, and nutmeg; make a forcemeat of three 
 pounds of beef, which scrape fine, likewise a 
 quarter of a pound of fat pork; pound and mix 
 these well together with a little butter and the 
 crumb of two rolls soaked in bouillon; make 
 rather thinner than for soup-balls; season with 
 grated onion, pounded pepper, allspice, cloves, 
 mushrooms, and gherkins chopped fine; and thin 
 the whole with some of the broth in which the 
 snipes were parboiled. 
 
 The next step is to line a dish with this 
 forcemeat; put in the birds with a little of the 
 soup and a small piece of butter; cover with 
 a thick layer of forcemeat; bake an hour and 
 a half. 
 
 Serve with a sauce made as follows. Half a 
 pint of soup, a gill of white wine, a little water, 
 and a piece of butter rolled in flour, stirred till 
 smooth; when it begins to boil, slice in pickled 
 gherkins or lemon. 
 
 A pie may be made in exactly the same way 
 with young ducks or pigeons, and eaten hot 
 or cold. „ , „ 
 
 Probable cost of snipes, from 2s. to 3s. per 
 
 brace. 
 
 SNIPES (k la Minute). 
 
 Pluck three snipes carefully, and truss them 
 for roasting. Dissolve two ounces of fresh 
 butter in a saucepan, lay the snipes in it side 
 by side and breast downwards, and add two 
 finely-minced shallots, or small onions, a dessert- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley, and a little 
 pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Move the 
 saucepan about over a sharp fire till the birds 
 are lightly browned, pour over them as much 
 good stock and sherry mixed as will barely 
 cover them, and add the strained juice of half 
 a lemon and a small piece of crust of bread 
 finely grated. Simmer all gently together till 
 the birds are done enough. Lift them out, and 
 put them on a hot dish. Dissolve a tea-spoon- 
 ful of Bovril in the sauce, stir it over the fire 
 for a minute, and pour it over the birds. Serve 
 immediately. Time, seven to ten minutes to 
 fry the birds; seven to ten minutes to stew 
 them. Probable cost of snipes, very variable. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 SNIPES, CHOOSING OF. 
 
 Snipes, like woodcocks, when old have the 
 feet hard and thick; when these are soft and 
 tender the birds are both young and fresh 
 killed. When the bills become moist and the 
 throats muddy, they have been too long killed. 
 
 SNIPES, COOKED (German fashion). 
 
 Pluck the birds, skin the head, and remove 
 the eyes. Singe the bodies, and cut off the claws ; 
 twist the legs, disjointing them, and so bring 
 the feet close to the. thiols, and put the long 
 beak through these as s, skewer. The position 
 will indicate how the breast may be kept thrown 
 up by passing twine round the joints and lower 
 part of the body, to tie at the back. Put the 
 snipes in a stewpan just large enough to hold 
 them with .butter enough to keep them basted, 
 turning as they are done on one side till they are 
 tinged all over. About twenty minutes by a 
 brisk heat will cook them. Toast slices of 
 bread, pour on these the butter they were 
 cooked in, and serve the birds on them. Dressed 
 in this way, they" are not drawn before the 
 trussing;. 
 
 SNIPES, GRAVY FOR. 
 
 (See Oeanoe Gbavt, tob Teal, Widgeons, 
 Snipes, Woodcock, etc.). 
 
 SNIPES, POTTED (a good brealcfast disli— to be 
 eaten cold). 
 Take some freshly-killed snipes, pluck them 
 carefully, cut off the legs and wings, take away 
 the gizzard, but leave the trail untouched. 
 Cover the bottom and sides of an ordinary pot- 
 ting-pan with thin slices of fat bacon. Place- 
 the snipes in this in layers until the dish is 
 ■almost full, and carefully season each layer 
 with salt and pepper. Pour in as much clarified 
 butter as will cover the birds, and lay over the 
 surface of the pan a paste of flour and water, 
 or, if the lid is put on, lay a border of paste 
 round the edge of it to keep in the steam. 
 When the pastry only is used, a little slit should 
 be made in the middle of it with a knife to 
 prevent accidents. Bake the pie in a moderate 
 oven. When done enough, let it get quite cold 
 before serving. Time to bake a moderate-sized 
 pie, about an hour and a quarter. 
 
SNI 
 
 830 
 
 SNI 
 
 SNIPES, PUDDING OF. 
 
 An excellent pudding' may be made with 
 snipes and woodcock, as well as with small wild 
 fowl of various kinds. Pluck and singe a brace 
 of snipes, and divide them into halves. Take 
 away the gizzards with the point of a knife, 
 and leave the trails untouched. Season the 
 birds with salt and cayenne. Line a pudding- 
 basin with Buet crust. Lay in it a slice of rump 
 steak seasoned with pepper and salt only, put 
 in the snipes, and place upon them another slice 
 of rump steak. Pour upon the meat a quarter 
 of a pint of good beef gravy, cover with pastry, 
 press the edges together with the finger and 
 thumb, and steam or boil the pudding till done 
 enough. Turn it out carefully, and serve very 
 hot. A few slices of trufde may be added to 
 the pudding or not. Time to boil the pudding, 
 two hours and a half. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 SNIPES, PUDDING OF, SUPERIOR. 
 
 Take four or six fresh snipes, pluck them, and 
 cut them in halves. Take away the gizzards 
 with the point of a knife, but put the trails 
 aside till wanted. Season the birds with salt 
 and black pepper; a few drops of lemon-juice 
 may be sprinkled over them or not. Cut a 
 Spanish onion into dice, put it into a saucepan 
 which has been rubbed quickly round with gar- 
 lic, and fry it in butter till it begins to turn 
 yellow. Dredge a table-spoonful of fiour upon 
 it, and add a table-spoonful of chopped mugh- 
 rooms, a table-spoonful of minced parsley, and 
 a pinch of aromatic powdered herbs (see Heebs, 
 Aeomatic, Powdeeed). Stir these ingredients 
 over the fire, and moisten them with half a pint 
 of wine, or with stock flavoured with wine. 
 Boll all for ten minutes, add the trails, and rub 
 the sauce through a sieve. Line a pudding- 
 basin with thin suet crust, put in the birds, pour 
 the sauce over them, and add three or four 
 sliced truffles if liked. Cover the pudding with 
 pastry, press the edges closely together, and 
 boil or steam it in the usual way. Turn out 
 carefully, and serve. Time to boil the pudding, 
 two hours and a half. Six birds will be sufficient 
 for a good-sized pudding. 
 
 SNIPES, RAISED PIE, HOT. 
 
 Take four snipes, pluck and singe them, and 
 cut them in two lengthwise. Carefully remove 
 the gizzards with the point of a knife, put the 
 trails aside till wanted, and season the birds 
 with salt and cayenne. Fry the birds in a 
 saucepan with a little clarified butter till they 
 are set; they will take about ten minutes. 
 Drain them, and put them in a cool place till 
 wanted. Make a, little forcemeat as follows. 
 Cut four ounces of calf's liver and four ounces 
 of fat bacon into dice. Melt the bacon in a 
 saute-pan over a brisk fire, add the liver, and 
 season the mixture with salt, pepper, and a 
 pinch of aromatic powdered herbs. When the 
 bacon and liver are cooked, put them aside till 
 cold, then pound them till smooth in a mortar; 
 add, whilst pounding, the trails of the birds, 
 and press the paste through a sieve. Butter 
 a moderate-sized pie-mould, line it evenly with 
 crust {see Paste eob Eaised Pies), and put a 
 layer of the forcemeat in the bottom of the 
 mould, taking care to leave it hollow in the 
 
 centre. Put half the pieces of snipe in a circle 
 upon the forcemeat, and place a little ball, of 
 forcemeat between them to keep them in posi- 
 tion. Spread a layer of forcemeat upon them, 
 put in the rest of the birds, and put a layer of 
 forcemeat over all. Fill the hollow in the centre 
 of the pie with bread which has been covered 
 with fat bacon, put the pastry-cover on, pinch 
 the edges of the pie securely, brush the top 
 over with egg, and bake in the oven. When 
 done enough, take off the cover, remove the 
 bread, and fill its place with scalloped truffles. 
 Pour a little good brown sauce over all, pile 
 truffles on the top, and serve. The brown sauce 
 may be made as directed in Snipes, Puddino 
 
 OF, SUPEBIOB. 
 SNIPES, ROASTED. 
 
 Pluck the birds very carefully so as not to 
 tear the tender skin, and singe and truss without 
 drawing them (see Snipes, To Teuss). Hang 
 the birds feet downwards to a spit, put them to 
 a clear fire, and baste frequently with butter 
 or dripping. When they have been down five 
 minutes, put under them slices of the crumb of 
 bread toasted and buttered on both sides. 
 This toast is intended to catch the droppings 
 of the trail, and is considered by epicures a 
 greater delicacy than the bird itself. A slice 
 should be allowed for each snipe. After the 
 toast is put under the birds, a dish should be 
 held under them when they are basted. When 
 they are done enough, which will be when the 
 steam draws to the fire, flour and brown them. 
 Take them up, dish them viath a slice of toast 
 under each, and serve without any sauce in 
 the dish with them. If liked, a slice of lemon 
 may accompany the birds, or a little plain, 
 melted butter may be sent to table in a tureen. 
 Snipes should be served very hot, or they will 
 be comparatively worthless. They should not 
 be over roasted ; indeed, it is said that some 
 epicures consider they are in perfection when 
 they have been simply carried through a hot 
 kitchen. The thigh is the best part. Garnish 
 the dish with water-cress. Some cooks tie 
 slices of bacon round the birds before roasting 
 them. Time to roast, twenty to twenty-five 
 minutes; five minutes less if liked underdone. 
 Probable cost, 2s. to 3s. per brace. Sufficient, 
 four snipes for a dish. 
 SNIPES, ROASTED (another way). 
 
 Pluck, singe, and draw the snipes, remove the 
 gizzards, and carefully preserve the trails. 
 Truss the birds, cover them with thin slices of 
 fat bacon, and tie these on securely with twine. 
 Put the snipes down before a clear fire. Take 
 a slice of the crumb of bread for each, and 
 toast and butter it on both sides. Chop the 
 trail, spread it on the toast, and put the slices 
 in a brisk .oven. Take the birds up, and serve 
 them on the slices of toaet in a hot dish. Time 
 to roast, twenty to twenty-five minutes. 
 SNIPES, ROASTED, WITH TRUFFLES, 
 
 Pluck, truss, and roast the snipes in the usual 
 way with slices of buttered toast under them. 
 When done enough, take them up, and put 
 inside each bird one or two truffles which have 
 been stewed in brown sauce. Send the sauce 
 ■ which remains to table in a tureen, and serve 
 very hot. 
 
SNI 
 
 831 
 
 SNO 
 
 SNIPES, SALMI OF. 
 
 Take the remains of cold dressed snipes, and 
 cut off the meat in neat slices. Bruise the 
 bones and trimmings in a mortar, and put them 
 into a stewpau with two shallots, two cloves, a 
 slice of lean uncooked ham, a carrot, a table- 
 spoonful of chopped mushrooms, half a dozen 
 peppercorns, and a pint of stock. Let these in- 
 gredients stew gently together for an' hour ; 
 strain the sauce, and return it to the saucepan 
 with a slice of fresh butter rolled in flour, and 
 half a tumblerful of claret or Madeira, and any 
 remains of toast covered with trail that there 
 may be. Simmer the sauce again until it coats 
 the spoon. Put the slices of snipe into a clean 
 saucepan, strain the sauce over them, and heat 
 them gently by the side of the fire without 
 allowing them to boil. Put the meat on a hot 
 dish, pour the sauce over it, and serve very hot. 
 Garnish the dish with fried sippets. Time, an 
 hour and a half to two hours. Probable cost. 
 Is., exclusive of the birds. Sufficient for three 
 or four persons. 
 
 SNIPES, SUPERLATIVE. 
 
 Prepare some forcemeat as follows. Take 
 three ounces of fat bacon and three ounces of 
 fowl's liver, and cut both into pieces an inch 
 square. Fry the bacon over a sharp fire, move 
 it about constantly, and in three or four 
 minutes add the liver. When this is half done, 
 mince it finely with the bacon, season the mix- 
 ture with a little prepared seasoning (see 
 Herbs, Aromatic, Powderbd), add a little salt 
 and half a clove of garlic if liked, and pound 
 all in a mortar to a smooth, compact mass. 
 Press it through a wire sieve, and keep it in a 
 cool place if not wanted immediately. Roll out 
 one-half of it with a little flour, form it into 
 a sort of thick band, and arrange it in a circle 
 at the bottom of a dish. Take four partially- 
 roasted snipes, split them open down the back, 
 and spread forcemeat, a quarter of an inch 
 thick, over the inside of each. Lay the birds 
 in the centre of the dish, and cover them lightly 
 with forcemeat. Smooth them with the flat 
 part of a knife which has been dipped in hot 
 water, and put the dish into a quick oven. 
 Wipe away the fat which has come from the 
 forcemeat, pour truffle sauce over the snipes, 
 and serve. Time, twenty-five minutes to bake 
 the entree. Probable cost of snipes, very vari- 
 able. Sufficient for three persons. 
 
 SNIPES, TO TRUSS. 
 
 Handle the birds lightly, pluck them care- 
 fully so as not to tear the skin, and pick them 
 entirely, neck and head. Do not draw them, 
 but wipe them with a clean soft cloth. Twist 
 the joints of the legs to bring the feet back 
 upon the thighs, and press the legs close to the 
 body. Turn the head under the wing, and pass 
 the bill through the thighs and body. Tie a 
 string round the legs and breast to keep the 
 legs straight, and pass it also round the head 
 and the tip of the bill. Hang the birds to the 
 spit vrith the feet downwards. 
 
 SNOW, APPLE. 
 
 Take twenty large apples, and bake them till 
 tender enough to draw off the peel; rub them 
 through a tamis; add sugar to taste, pounded 
 cinnamon, and grated lemon-peel. Keep stir- 
 
 ring always the same way for a quarter of an 
 hour; beat up the whites of six eggs to a stiff 
 froth, add it, and still keep stirring. Fix a 
 hoop on a sheet of paper, butter it, and pour 
 the snow in; bake in a very cool oven. Apple 
 snow may be iced. 
 
 SNOWBALL FRITTERS. 
 
 Break three fresh eggs into a bowl, take out 
 the specks, and beat the eggs well. Mix with 
 them three-quarters of a pint of sour cream, 
 and add gradually as much flour as will make 
 a batter so stiff that a fork will stand upright 
 in it. Stir into this a quarter of a pint of beer, 
 and add a table-spoonful of sugar, a pinch of 
 salt, and a few cardamom-seeds. Make half a 
 pound of butter or fat boiling hot in a saute- 
 pau, drop the batter into this from the end of 
 a spoon, and fry the snowballs till they are 
 lightly set. Drain them on a sieve covered with 
 blotting-paper, and serve on a neatly-folded 
 napkin. Sift powdered sugar thickly over them. 
 The fat in which the fritters were fried should 
 be clarified, and may be used for a similar pur- 
 pose again and again. Time to fry, four or 
 five minutes. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 
 SNOWBALLS (a German recipe). 
 
 Take a pint and a half of milk, and set it on 
 the fire. When it boils, throw in a few grated 
 bitter almonds, a quarter of a pound of fresh 
 butter, and two ounces of sugar. Continue 
 stirring, and pour in eight or nine spoonfuls 
 of flour mixed in a little milk, and keep stirring 
 till it has become a stiff mass which falls from 
 the spoon and saucepan. Take out the prepara- 
 tion, and have ready seven or eight eggs beat 
 up, which add to the paste. Work all well to- 
 gether, butter a baking-tin, and with a spoon 
 drop the paste on it in little balls, which will 
 greatly swell in the baking. Put them in a 
 moderately-heated oven, and when done strew 
 them thickly with sugar. 
 
 SNOWBALLS, RICE. 
 
 No. 1. — ^Wash half a pound of rice in two or 
 three waters and pick out all imperfect grains. 
 Throw it into a saucepan of fast-boiling water, 
 and boil quickly for ten minutes; drain, and 
 cool it. Pare five or six large baking apples, 
 and carefully remove the core without dividing 
 them. Put into the hollow of each a little 
 grated lemon-rind or cinnamon and sugar. 
 Divide the rice into as many portions as there 
 are apples, and spread each portion in a circu- 
 lar form on a separate cloth. Lay the fruit in 
 the centre, and tie the cloth to cover tlie apple 
 with the rice. Put the puddings into boiling 
 water, and keep them boiling quickly until done 
 enough. Turn the snowballs upon a hot dish, 
 strew powdered sugar thickly over them, and 
 send melted butter to table with them. If 
 liked, oranges, skinned and cleared from the 
 thick white skin, may be substituted for the 
 apples. Time to boil, an hour and a half. 
 Probable cost of snowballs. Id. each. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. No. 2. — Wash and pick 
 half a pound of rice; drain it, and put it into 
 a saucepan, with a pinch of salt and about a 
 quart of water. Cover the saucepan closely, 
 and let its contents simmer gently until the 
 water is absorbed. Dip some small moulds or 
 
SNO 
 
 832 
 
 SOD 
 
 tea-cups into cold water for a moment; press 
 the boiled rice into them, then turn them in 
 shapes upon a dish, sift powdered sugar thickly 
 over them, and send wine sauce or melted butter 
 to table in a tureen. Time to boil, about an 
 hour. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of wine. 
 Sufficient for four persons. 
 SNOW CAKE. 
 
 Beat four ounces of fresh butter to cream; 
 then add gradually four ounces of powdered 
 sugar, a pinch of salt, half a pound of arrow- 
 root, and any flavouring that may be liked — 
 lemon, almond, or vanilla. Whisk the whites 
 of three eggs to snow, stir them into the mix- 
 ture, and beat it again till it is light and white. 
 Butter a shallow mould or tin with raised edges, 
 pour in the batter, and bake in a gentle oven. 
 It should not be allowed to acquire any colour. 
 When done enough, let it cool a little, then 
 with a sharp knife divide it into pieces about 
 two inches square. Keep in a cool, dry place. 
 Time to bake, about an hour and a quarter. 
 Probables^ost, varying with the quality of the 
 arrowrooCf Sufficient for a small cake. 
 
 SNOW CHEESE. 
 
 Blanch an ounce and a, half of sweet almonds, 
 pound them in a mortar, and add a table-spoon- 
 ful of ratafia and two table-spoonfuls of rose- 
 water. Stir the paste into a quart of thick 
 cream, and add the strained juice of three 
 lemons and as much white sugar as will sweeten 
 the cream pleasantly. Whisk the mixture till 
 it begins to thicken, then pour it into a mould, 
 and set it in a cool place. In twelve hours it 
 will be ready for turning out. 
 
 SNOW COCOA-NUT (to serve with moulded jelly 
 or jam). 
 Break up a cocoa-nut, pare off the brown skin, 
 and throw the pieces of white meat into cold 
 water for a short time. Grate these on a coarse 
 grater, and pile the snow lightly in a glass dish. 
 
 SNOW CUSTARD. 
 
 Take a pint of milk, a pint of cream, a quarter 
 of a pound of white sugar, and a stick of cin- 
 namon, and set them on the fire; when the 
 preparation begins to boil, pour in the yolks of 
 ten eggs which have been beaten up in a few 
 spoonfuls of cold milk; keep it well stirred all 
 the time till it begins again to boil; then take 
 out the cinnamon, and stir in the whites, which 
 must also have been beaten up ; turn it quickly 
 all the time, that it may not run over; when 
 it has assumed a thickish appearance, put it 
 into a dish garnished with ratafia cakes and 
 pastry alternately. 
 
 SNOWDON PUDDING. 
 
 Shred four ounces of beef suet very finely, and 
 mix with it a pinch of salt, two table-spoonfuls 
 of pounded sugar, one ounce of sago, three 
 ounces of orange marmalade, half a pound of 
 grated bread-crumbs, three well-beaten eggs, 
 and a dessert-spoonful of brandy. Beat the 
 ingredients together till the mixture is quite 
 smooth. Butter a mould thickly, dredge a little 
 flour upon it, and stick into it even rows of 
 raisins. Put the pudding into it very gently, 
 and in table-spoonfuls, not to disturb the 
 raisins, lay a round of oiled or buttered paper 
 on the surface, and tie the pudding in a cloth. 
 
 Boil or steam it till done. Let it stand a few 
 minutes after it is taken up before turning it 
 out. Send wine sauce to table with it. If 
 lik^d, two table-spoonfuls of apricot jam may 
 be substituted for the marmalade, and a table- 
 spoonful of ground rice for the sago. Time to 
 boil the pudding, about an hour. Probable 
 cost, 9d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 SNOW ROCKS. 
 
 Take four ounces of castor sugar and the 
 same of lard, and beat them together to a 
 cream. Work in two beaten eggs and half a 
 pound of wheaten flour and potato flour mixed, 
 a little at a time, beating all the while. This 
 should take at least twenty minutes. Flavour 
 with a little essence of almond or vanilla, and 
 bake in rough heaps on a greased sheet in a 
 steady oven. When done dust with sugar. 
 Probable cost, 9d. 
 
 SODA BISCUITS. 
 
 No. 1. — Rub a quarter of a pound of butter 
 into a pound of flour, and add a pinch of salt 
 and six table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar. 
 Whisk two eggs, and stir them into the flour; 
 add a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda dis- 
 solved in a spoonful of hot milk, and beat the 
 mixture till it is smooth and light. Boll the 
 pastry out to the thickness of half an inch, 
 stamp it into fancy shapes, and bake imme- 
 diately in a quick oven. No. 2. — Dissolve six 
 ounces of butter, six ounces of sugar, a pinch of 
 salt, and a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda in 
 a pint of warm milk, and stir into the liquor as 
 much flour as will form a stiff dough. Knead 
 the pastry till it is smooth and light, and roll 
 it out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch. 
 Stamp it in rounds and bake immediately. 
 No. 3. — ^Beat the yolk of an egg, mix it with 
 a pound of flour, and add a pinch of salt. Dis- 
 solve it tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda in a 
 table-spoonful of warm milk; stir this into the 
 flour, with additional milk, to make a stiff 
 dough. Knead well, beat with a rolling-pin, 
 and roll the dough out very thin. Stamp it into 
 fancy biscuits, and bake these in a moderate 
 oven. When the biscuits are crisp they will be 
 sufficiently baked. Time to bake the biscuits, 
 twelve to twenty minutes. 
 
 SODA BREAD. 
 
 Mix thoroughly equal parts of tartaric acid 
 and carbonate of soda, and put the mixture 
 aside to be used as required. Dissolve a tea- 
 spoonful of the powder and a pinch of salt in 
 a breakfast-cupful of milk, and stir the liquor 
 into a pound of flour. Knead the dough till it 
 is smooth and light, put it into a tin, and bake 
 the loaf in a brisk oven. Sometimes sour milk 
 or buttermilk is used instead of sweet milk, and 
 then a smaller proportion of tartaric acid is re- 
 quired. Time to bake, about an hour. Prob- 
 able cost, 3d. for a loaf this size. 
 
 SODA BREAD (another way)- 
 
 Take two pounds of flour, two pounds of 
 Indian meal, three tea-spoonfuls of baJdng-soda, 
 the same of cream of tartar, a tea-spoonful of 
 salt and one of sugar. Mix all well together, 
 and stir in gradually a quart of bnttermilk. 
 Divide into three or four loaves, and bake in 
 a tin in rather a quick oven for an hour. 
 
SOD 
 
 833 
 
 SOL 
 
 SODA CAKE. 
 
 No. 1. — Rub a quarter of a pound of butter 
 into a pound of flour ; then add a pinch of salt, 
 a quarter of a pound of stoned raisins, or half 
 a pound of picked and dried currants, half a 
 pound of powdered sugar, and a quarter of a 
 grated nutmeg. Mix the dry ingredients 
 thoroughly. Dissolve a tea-spoonful of car- 
 bonate of soda in a tea-cupful of warm milk. 
 Whisk three fresh eggs, and mix them with the 
 milk. Beat all well together for a few minutes. 
 Butter the tins, and line them with oiled paper. 
 PoUr in the mixture, and bake the cakes in a 
 well-heated, steady oven. If a richer cake is 
 required, the quantity of butter should be in- 
 creased. As a variety, a quarter of a pound of 
 candied peel or one ounce of pounded sweet 
 almonds may be substituted for the currants, 
 but then a little more soda will be needed. 
 It should be remembered that the cake should 
 be put into the oven immediately after the 
 soda is added, and that it should be thoroughly 
 baked. When done enough, turn it out care- 
 fully, and let it rest in a slanting position on 
 the edge of a basin till cool. If liked, the 
 batter can be spread half an inch deep in a 
 shallow pan, then cut into squares when done 
 enough. If this plan is adopted, the cake will 
 be baked in twenty minutes. Time to bake, 
 one large cake, one hour and three-quarters; 
 two small cakes, one hour each. Probable cost, 
 8d. per pound. 
 
 SODA CAKE (another way). 
 
 Rub half a pound of fresh butter into a 
 pound of flour; add a pinch of salt, half a 
 pound of picked and dried currants, a quarter 
 of a grated nutmeg, three ounces of finely- 
 shredded candied peel (lemon, orange, or citron), 
 and two well-beaten eggs. Dissolve a small 
 tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda in the third 
 of a pint of lukewarm milk. Beat the ingre- 
 dients well together, and bake the cake as 
 quickly as possible after the soda is put in. 
 Turn the dough into a buttered tin, and bake 
 in a moderate oven. Time to bake, about an 
 hour and three-quarters. Probable cost, 9d. 
 per pound. 
 SODA CAKES, ECONOMICAL. 
 
 No. 1.— Rub six ounces of good beef dripping 
 into a pound of flour; add a pinch of salt, a 
 tea-spoonful of mixed spice, a table-spoonful of 
 caraway-seeds, and six ounces of moist sugar. 
 Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. Add a 
 tea-spoonful of vinegar and a tea-spoonful of 
 carbonate of soda dissolved in half a pint of 
 lukewarm milk. Bake in a moderate oven. 
 Probable cost, 4d. per pound. No. 2. — Rub 
 eight" ounces of good beef dripping into two 
 pounds of flour; add a, salt-spoonful of salt, 
 six table-spoonfuls of sugar, six ounces of picked 
 and dried currants, a little nutmeg or spice, 
 three eggs, and a pint of lukewarm milk, in 
 which a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda has 
 been dissolved. Mix thoroughly, and bake in 
 a moderate oven. Time to bake, one hour or 
 more, according to the size of the cakes. Prob- 
 able cost, 6d. per pound. 
 
 SODA CAKES (another way). 
 
 Take six ounces of butter, and mix with it 
 one pound of flour; work it into small crumbs. 
 3b 
 
 Mix with these half a pound of sugar, half a pint 
 of boiling milk, three eggs, a little grated nut- 
 meg, and eight ounces of currants. Beat the 
 whole well and lightly together; then strew 
 over it a very small tea-spoonful of finely-pow- 
 dered carbonate of soda. Beat the cake again 
 for three or four minutes, and then bake it from 
 one hour to an hour and a half. 
 
 SODA CREAM. 
 
 (iSee Cream, Soda). 
 
 SODA SCONES. 
 
 Make a stifi paste with a pound of flour, a 
 quarter of an ounce of carbonate of soda, and 
 as much buttermilk as is required. Roll this 
 out to the thickness of half an inch, cut it into 
 small three-cornered pieces, and bake these on 
 a girdle over a clear fire. When done enough, 
 cut the scones open, butter them with fresh 
 butter, and serve hot. If more convenient, milk 
 a day old may be substituted for the buttermilk 
 
 SODA-WATER. 
 
 (<S'ee SuMMEB Beverages). 
 
 SODA-WATER, MILK AND. 
 
 Heat nearly to boiling a tea-cupful of milk, 
 and dissolve in it a tea-spoonful of refined 
 sugar; put it into a large tumbler, and pour 
 over it two-thirds of a bottle of soda - water. 
 This is an excellent mode of taking milk when 
 the stomach is charged with acid, and conse- 
 quently apt to feel oppressed by milk alone. 
 
 SOJA. 
 
 This is the vegetable that forms the basis of 
 Chinese soy. It is similar to the flageolet bean, 
 and, being rich in oil and poor in starch, is 
 recommended to diabetic patients by the 
 medical profession. It is not often to be seen 
 in the home market, and attempts at its culti- 
 vation in this country have not been attended 
 with much success. 
 
 SOLE. 
 
 The sole holds !< prominent position amongst 
 flat fish, being second to the turbot only in 
 
 SOLE A LA COLBERT ($66 page 834). 
 
 excellence. It is highly esteemed, and deser- 
 vedly SO, as its flesh is Arm and delicate. Its 
 only drawback is its price; it is never really 
 cheap, and often very expensive. It is an 
 invalid's fish, ranking next to the whiting in 
 the ease with which it can be digested. 
 
 It is caught in great abundance all the year 
 round, and may be almost always obtained 
 
SOL 
 
 834 
 
 SOL 
 
 in good condition. Soles are best when quite 
 fre^, though in cool weather they may be kept 
 until the second day without being materially 
 spoiled. In fishing towns they may frequently 
 be bought alive, then killed, and fried imme- 
 diately. They are then in perfection. The 
 skin of the back is sometimes black and some- 
 times white, the colour varying with the nature 
 of the ground on which the fish feeds. Soles 
 vary in size, from the little fish called tongues 
 or slips to large fish weighing eight or nine 
 pounds per pair. Those in roe are rather 
 insipid in flavour. They are best filleted. Very 
 large fish may be boiled and served like turbot, 
 which they somewhat resemble in flavour. Soles 
 may be served in a variety of ways, but are best 
 when fried. To prepare them, scale and gut 
 them, and take the skin off the back; wash 
 them well, and be careful to take out the roe; 
 wash it, and return it to its place, pressing it 
 down upon the bone; trim the fins neatly, dry 
 the fish perfectly, wrap it in a soft cloth, and 
 leave it in a cool place to stiffen till wanted. 
 When practicable, soles should be cleaned a 
 couple of hours before they are dressed. The 
 price of soles depends largely upon the supply. 
 
 SOLE (^ la Bordelaise). 
 
 Select a large sole, and put it into a fireproof 
 dish, sprinkle with a little minced parsley, 
 pepper, salt, a few finely-minced mushrooms 
 and shallots, and an ounce of oiled butter. Add 
 half a wine-glassful of white stock; and the 
 same quantity of sherry. Bake in a brisk oven 
 for fifteen minutes, and baste with the liquor. 
 Serve in the, same dish in which it is cooked. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. to 2s. 
 
 SOLE (it la Colbert). 
 
 Take a thick sole, scale it, draw off the dark 
 skin, and clean the fish ; with a sharp knife loosen 
 the flesh from the bone on one side, without 
 taking it off; make an incision on both sides 
 of the bone down the length of the flsh, and 
 vrith the handle of a knife break it in one or 
 two places, 30 that when the fish is done enough 
 the bone may be removed without spoiling the 
 appearance of the fish. Replace the flesh on the 
 bone where it has been disturbed ; egg and 
 bread-crumb the fish, let it stand an hour, and 
 then fry in the usual way (see Sole, Feied). 
 When done enough, carefully remove the back- 
 bone, and in the cavity thus made place a little 
 maitre d'hotel butter. Serve the fish on a hot 
 dish, garnish with parsley, and send a cut 
 lemon, or, if preferred, plain melted butter or 
 maitre d'hotel sauce to table with it. The 
 maitre d'hotel butter may be made as follows. 
 Wash a handful of picked parsley-leaves, chop 
 them finely, put them into the corner of a 
 napkin, dip them in cold water, and wring them 
 dry. This second washing will decrease the 
 raw taste of the parsley. Put it in a basin, and 
 with it a piece of fresh butter the size of an 
 egg, a little pepper and salt, and a table-spoon- 
 ful of lemon-juice. Mix the butter and pars- 
 ley with the point of a knife till smooth and 
 creamy, when it will be ready for use. It must 
 not be melted, or it would turn oily. Time, 
 about twenty minutes to fry a thick flsh. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 6d. Sufficient for two or three 
 persons. 
 
 SOLE (k la Mattre d'HStel). 
 
 Have two or three soles filleted; stew the 
 heads and bones in about half a pint of water, 
 place the fillets of the soles in a flat pan in 
 about a wine-glassful of this water, simmer 
 two and a half minutes each side; turn the re- 
 mainder of the water into sauce, by putting 
 to it two ounces of butter, a little cayenne and 
 salt and chopped parsley, thickening with arrow- 
 root ; add a tea-spoonful of shallot vinegar, or 
 the juice of half a lemon, pour over, and 
 serve. The sauce may also be prepared accord- 
 ing to the directions given in the preceding 
 recipe. 
 
 SOLE (k la Meuniere). 
 
 Clean, skin, and empty a fine fresh sole, cut 
 away the fins and gills, and with a sharp knife 
 make four gashes right across it on both sides. 
 Bub into these a little salt and chopped onion; 
 dip the sole in flour, and broil it over a clear 
 but gentle fire. Lay it on a hot dish, rub it 
 well on both sides with a slice of fresh butter 
 which has been mixed with the juice of a lemon 
 and a little cayenne, put it in a brisk oven for 
 a minute or two, and serve very hot. Time, ten 
 to fifteen minutes, according to thickness. 
 Probable cost. Is. to Is. 6d. Sufficient for three 
 or four persons. 
 
 SOLE (k la Miromesnil). 
 
 Take three soles, scale them on both sides, 
 and empty them nicely without injuring the 
 flesh. Make an incision on the black side. Pry 
 them without dipping them into flour. When 
 they are done, drain them on a clean cloth, 
 open the place where you have made the in- 
 cision, out the bone near the head and tail, 
 and draw it out. Let the fish cool. Mix a 
 lump of butter with some parsley chopped very 
 fine, pepper, salt, and the juice of a lemon. 
 Divide the butter into three equal parts, and 
 put one part into the opening of each sole; 
 close the opening, and make the whole stick by 
 means of the yolk of an egg ; put a few crumbs 
 of bread at the joint. Beat two eggs, then dip 
 the soles into them, and next into crumbs of 
 bread, equally on all sides. When dinner-time 
 is come, fry the soles in hot dripping. They are 
 done as soon as they are coloured. The sauce 
 is found in the sole itself. 
 
 SOLE (,k la Ravigote). 
 
 Scale and wash a pair of soles, but do not 
 empty them ; run a knife between the bone 
 and the flesh, and remove the fillets. Skin 
 them, cut them in two, put them into a saute- ' 
 pan or stewpan, cover them with melted butter, 
 and dust them over with pepper and salt; fry 
 them over a brisk fire, turning them so that 
 they may be cooked equally on both sides. 
 When done, drain them on a sheet of white 
 paper, and pour over them a sauce Eavigote 
 (see Kavxoote Sauce). 
 
 SOLE (au Gratin). 
 
 This dish is much liked, but as only one sole 
 can be cooked at a time, the guests should not 
 exceed four, unless the fish be a large one. 
 The French have an oblong metal or earthen- 
 ware dish for the purpose, so that the sole may 
 be served in the dish in which it is cooked. 
 Grease the bottom of the dish with butter to 
 
SOL 
 
 •835 
 
 SOL 
 
 prevent the fish sticking, chop some parsley 
 and a shallot, spread lightly, add some salt and 
 pepper, a little wine or brandy, lay the sole 
 upon it, spread the same things over the 
 top of the sole, and some lumps of butter, with 
 some button mushrooms, or a table-spoonful of 
 ■ketchup and a little of any gravy that may be 
 at hand; rasp over some bread-crumbs, and 
 «ook the fish gently in the oven. Time, from 
 ten to fifteen minutes, according to thickness. 
 
 SOLE (au Gratin), another way. 
 
 Prepare and wash the soles as in the recipe 
 Soles, with Water Souchet, and rub the dish 
 with a little butter; spread over it parsley, 
 shallot, and mushroom (each chopped), salt, 
 pepper, etc. ; lay the soles over this, and on the 
 top of them spread some fine raspings of crust 
 of bread, and parsley chopped, etc., as under- 
 neath. Put small bits of butter over the soles, 
 a glassful of white wine, a tea-spoonful of each 
 of the following articles — essence of anchovies, 
 chilli vinegar, and Harvey's sauce; and when 
 the soles have been in the oven ten minutes or 
 more, mix with the spoon the sauce that you 
 baste the fish with. This is a very palatable 
 dish. 
 SOLE (au Gratin, k la Fran9aise). 
 
 Mix together from three to four ounces of 
 mushrooms, a table-spoonful of parsley, and 
 two ounces of shallot. Add a table-spoonful 
 •or two of bread-crumbs, a pinch of salt and 
 pepper, and a slice of bacon cut into small dice. 
 Butter a fire-proof dish, lay the above seasoning 
 on, then put on the fish, either whole or neatly 
 filleted, sprinkle it with a little of same season- 
 ing as is put below it, then pour over it a 
 glass of white vdne and a little good fish stock ; 
 sprinkle more bread-crumbs over, and put bits 
 of butter on ; bake moderately, and serve hot 
 in the same dish. 
 
 SOLE, BAKED. 
 
 Take a thick and very fresh sole, scale, skin, 
 and trim it, wipe it dry with a soft cloth, and 
 if convenient let it lie folded in this in a cool 
 place for an hour or more before dressing. 
 Season lightly with salt and pepper, flour well, 
 and, if Hked, egg and bread-crumb the sole 
 twice. Lay it in a buttered baking-dish, put 
 little pieces of butter here and there upon it, 
 and bake in a moderate oven. Shake the dish 
 occasionally to keep the fish from sticking to 
 the bottom. When done enough, lay it on a 
 reversed sieve before the fire for a few minutes 
 to drain the fat from it. Put it on a hot dish, 
 covered with a napkin, and garnish with pars- 
 ley and cut lemon. Send melted butter fla- 
 voured with anchovy sauce and chilli vinegar to 
 table in a tureen; or make sauce by mixing 
 the gravy which flows from the fish with a little 
 lemon-juice, a tea^spoonful of the essence of 
 anchovies, and a spoonful of stock. A glass- 
 ful of wine is sometimes added to the sauce thus 
 made, but it is scarcely necessary. If more than 
 one sole is to be baked, it should be remembered 
 that they must be done in single layers, that 
 is, they must not be laid one upon the top of 
 another. Time to bake the sole, ten to fifteen 
 minutes. Probable cost. Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. per 
 pair. Sufficient, one good-sized sole for three 
 persons. 
 
 SOLE, BAKED (au Gratin). 
 
 Choose a thick sole as fresh as possible. 
 Cleanse it, remove the gills, scale it, and strip 
 off the dark skin by cutting it at the tail end 
 and drawing it over the head. Wash the fish well, 
 and wipe it dry; trim away the fins, and with 
 a sharp knife make an incision a quarter of an 
 inch deep down each side of the backbone on the 
 skinned side. Butter a baking-dish rather 
 thickly, and lay the sole in it. Sprinkle a little 
 pepper and salt over it, and a few fine bread- 
 raspings, and add about a dozen mushrooms 
 chopped small, a small handful of picked; 
 washed, and chopped parsley-leaves, and one 
 finely-minced shallot. Cover the surface of the 
 sole thickly with fine raspings, and moisten the 
 fish with a glassful of French white wine, a 
 tea-spoonful of anchovy essence, and a table- 
 spoonful of mushroom ketchup. Put the dish 
 in the oven till the sole is done enough. If the 
 dish in which the fish is baked is suitable, serve 
 the fish in it; if not, lift the fish carefully with 
 a, fish slicer, lay it on a hot dish, and pour the 
 sauce over. Another table-spoonful of wine 
 may be added to the sauce. If the surface of 
 the fish is not sufficiently coloured, a salamander 
 or red-hot shovel may be held over it for a few 
 minutes. When expense is a consideration, a 
 glassful of cider or perry will be found an ex- 
 cellent substitute for the light wine. Time to 
 bake, ten to fifteen minutes, according to the 
 size of the sole. Probable cost. Is. to Is. 6d. 
 for ii good-sized sole. Sufficient for three per- 
 sons. 
 
 SOLE, BAKED (en Matelote Normande). 
 
 This dish very much resembles Sole, Nob- 
 MANDE proper. Prepare a stuffing as follows, 
 Mince finely and separately a dozen mushrooms, 
 a small handful of picked and washed parsley- 
 leaves, and one shallot. Mix these ingredients 
 together, put them into a saucepan, and fry 
 them with two ounces of fresh butter, a little 
 pepper and salt, and a small pinch of powdered 
 spice. Stir the mixture over the fire for five or 
 six minutes, take it off the fire, beat the yolks 
 of two eggs, and mix them with the herbs ; 
 stir them over the fire again for about half a 
 minute, and spread the forcemeat on a plate 
 to cool. Cleanse and trim a fresh thick sole. 
 Remove the bone carefully so as not to deform 
 the fish, and put the cold forcemeat in the 
 cavity thus prepared. Lay the sole in a but- 
 tered dish or saucepan, season with salt and 
 pepper, and moisten with a glassful of French 
 white wine or cider (see Sole, Noemandb) — a 
 wine-glassful will be enough for one sole. Cover 
 the fish with buttered white paper, to prevent 
 its acquiring any colour, and bake until done 
 enough. Watch it carefully whilst it is baking, 
 as if it is too much done it will be good for 
 nothing. Serve on a hot dish. If liked, tomato 
 or shrimp sauce may be sent to table with the 
 fish. Time to bake the sole, according to size. 
 Probable cost. Is. or Is. 6d. for one thick sole. 
 
 SOLE, BAKED, WITH FINE HERBS. 
 
 Take a thick sole, perfectly fresh. Cleanse, 
 scale, and skin it, and carefully remove the 
 backbone without spoiling the appearance of 
 the fish. Mince separately a shallot and a small 
 handful of picked and washed parsley-leaves. 
 
SOL 
 
 836 
 
 SOL 
 
 Mix these ingredients, and fry them with a tea- 
 spoonful of powdered sweet herbs in two ounces 
 of butter for five or six minutes. Throw in two 
 table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs and the well- 
 beaten yolks of two eggs; shake all quickly 
 together for half a minute, and turn the force- 
 meat out to cool. Put it in the place of the 
 bone inside the fish. Put the fish in a buttered 
 baking-dish, sprinkle pepper and salt over it, 
 dredge floui< upon it, place little pieces of 
 butter here and there upon it, and add the juice 
 of a lemon and a quarter of a pint of water. 
 Lay the fish in a hot dish, strain the sauce over 
 it, and garnish with cut lemon and parsley. If 
 additional sauce is required, put an ounce of 
 butter and an ounce of flour into a saucepan. 
 iStir these over the fire for two minutes, then 
 add three-quarters of a pint of water and a 
 little pepper and salt. Stir the sauce over the 
 fire til] it boils, pour the liquor from the sole 
 into it, and stir into it a table-spoonful of the 
 fried herbs which were used for stuffing the 
 fish, made and preserved for the purpose. Take 
 the sauce off the fire, stir into it until dissolved 
 a slice of fresh butter, and it will be ready for 
 use. Time to bake the sole, ten to fifteen 
 minutes, according to size. Probable cost. Is. 
 or Is. 6d. for one large sole. Sufficient for three 
 or four persons. 
 SOLE, BAKED, WITH FINE HERBS (another way). 
 
 Cleanse, scale, trim, and skin a sole. Lay it 
 in a buttered baking-dish, season with salt and 
 pepper, and sprinkle a dozen chopped mush- 
 rooms, a finely-minced shallot, and a tea-spoon- 
 ful of chopped parsley over it. Cover with 
 thick white sauce, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 When done enough, lift the sole upon a hot 
 dish with a fish slicer; add the juice of half a 
 lemon to the sauce, and stir into it until dis- 
 solved a slice of fresh butter; pour it over the 
 fish, and serve. Time to bake, according to size. 
 Probable cost, one thick sole, from Is. to Is. 6d. 
 Sufficient for three persons. 
 SOLE, BAKED, WITH WINE SAUCE. 
 
 Cleanse, scale, skin, trim, and dry a thick 
 sole, and with a sharp knife make an incision 
 down each side of the backbone. Season with 
 pepper and salt, put it into a baking-dish 
 thickly buttered, and pour upon it half a pint 
 of French white wine, or, where economy is a 
 consideration, a pint of cider or perry. Bake 
 the fish in a moderate oven. When done 
 enough, stir the liquor into half a pint of good 
 melted butter, let it boil up, and add a dessert- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley. Take the sauce 
 off the fire, and stir into it until dissolved an 
 ounce of fresh butter. Lift the fish carefully 
 with a fish slicer upon a hot dish, pour the sauce 
 over, and serve very hot. Time to bake, about 
 fifteen minutes, according to size. Probable 
 cost, a large sole. Is. to Is. 6d. Sufficient for 
 three persons. 
 SOLE, BOILED. 
 
 The flesh of a" boiled sole is tender and deli- 
 cate, and somewhat resembles turbot in flavour. 
 It is particularly suited for invalids and con- 
 valescents. Choose the fish fresh, and very thick 
 — a sole for boiling should weigh at least two 
 pounds. Scale and clean it, remove the fina 
 and gills^ but do not take off the brown skin. 
 
 Put it into plenty of cold water with a table- 
 spoonful of salt and a table-spoonful of vinegar ; 
 let the liquor boil, skim carefully, then draw 
 the pan to the side, and let its contents simmer 
 very gently till the fish is done enough. When 
 this point is reached, the flesh will shrink frcm 
 the bone. In taking up the sole, set the fish- 
 drainer across the kettle for a minute, then lay 
 the fish on a dish, covered with a warm napkin. 
 The white side must be uppermost. Garnish 
 with parsley and cut lemon, and send melted 
 butter, or shrimp, anchovy, caper, lobster, or 
 oyster sauce to table in a tureen. Some cooks 
 plunge the fish into boiling water, and boil it 
 gently until done enough, but it is more usual 
 to put it into cold water. Time to boil the fish, 
 according to size. A good-sized fish will take 
 seven or eight minutes from the time the water 
 boils. 
 
 SOLE, BUTTERED. 
 
 Clean, scale, skin, and dry the fish. Eub a 
 tin dish quickly with a clove of garlic freshly 
 cut, lay the soles iu it, and dredge flour upon 
 them. Put little pieces of butter here and 
 there upon them, allowing three ounces of 
 butter for each moderate-sized sole, and bake 
 them until done enough in a moderate oven. 
 Lay them on a hot dish, pour the butter over, 
 and sprinkle on them a tea-spoonful of finely- 
 minced parsley. Serve very hot. Time to bake, 
 about twenty minutes, according to size. 
 Probable cost, soles. Is. 6d. to 28. 6d. per pair. 
 SOLE, CHOOSING OF. 
 
 Soles should be chosen thick, firm, with the 
 under part of a delicate cream-colour. The 
 colour, as well as the smell, is a test of fresh- 
 ness. Medium-sized fish are the best. 
 
 SOLE, COLD. 
 
 Divide the cold fish into- fillets. Put a lump 
 of clarified fat or butter into the saucepan. 
 When melted, dredge in half a table-spoonful 
 of flour, and let it fry till brown. Then put in 
 an onion cut into quarters. When these quarters 
 are brown, add a bunch of herbs and, gradually, 
 a cupful of broth or water, half a wine-glassful 
 of vinegar, and a little ketchup. Let the sauce 
 stew very gently till the onion is soft; then 
 season with pepper and salt. Let it simmer 
 a quarter of an hour longer. Put in the fish 
 with a pickled gherkin or two cut into small 
 bits, or in preference a few capers. Let the 
 whole simmer together for ten minutes, and if 
 the sauce is not thick enough, add a little butter 
 rolled in flour. 
 
 SOLE CROQUETTES. 
 
 Take the remains of cold cooked sole, lift the 
 flesh from the bones, and tear it into flakes with 
 two forks; then put it into a saucepan with a 
 small proportion of white sauce, the yolks of 
 three eggs, and a little nutmeg, pepper, and 
 salt. A quarter of a tea-spoonful of chopped 
 onion may be added if liked, or the saucepan 
 can be rubbed with a freshly-cut onion. Stir 
 the mixture over the fire for a few minutes till 
 the eggs are set, spread it on a dish, and leave 
 it iu a cool place till it is firm and cold. Divide 
 the croquette-meat into equal-sized parts, and 
 roll these to the shape of corks or balls. Dip 
 them in an egg which has been beaten up witk 
 
SOL 
 
 837 
 
 SOL 
 
 a tea-spoonful of oil and a little salt and pepper, 
 roll them in bread-crumbs, and fry in tot fat 
 till they are crisp and lightly coloured. Drain 
 them from the fat, sprinkle a little salt upon 
 them, and serve on a dish covered with a nap- 
 iin. Garnish with fried parsley. Time to fry 
 the croquettes, about ten minutes. Probable 
 cost of croc[uette3 made with a pound of sole, 
 8d., exclusive of the cold fish. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 SOLE, CURRIED. 
 
 Fillet two soles, and cut each fillet slantwise 
 into four or five pieces. If more convenient, 
 instead of filleting the soles, skin and clean 
 them, cut ofE the fins and gills, and cut each 
 fish into three or four pieces, leaving the bones 
 in. Eub the fish with curry-powdef, and dredge 
 a little flour upon it, then fry it in hot fat for 
 two or three minutes, but do not cook it suf- 
 ficiently. Have ready as much warm curry 
 sauce as will barely cover the fish. Lay the 
 fried slices of sole carefully in this, and let 
 them boil gently till they are done enough, but 
 not overdone. Serve the curry on a hot dish, 
 and send rice boiled for curry to table 
 separately. The curry sauce may be made 
 as follows. Mince two onions and one sour 
 apple, and fry them in hot fat, moving them 
 about briskly till they are soft. Bub them 
 through a sieve, and mix with the pulp a tea- 
 spoonful of curry-paste, a tea-spoonful of curry 
 powder, and a tea-spoonful of ground rice. 
 Add gradually about three-quarters of a pint of 
 stock, and boil the sauce till it is thick and 
 smooth. Time to simmer the sole in the sauce, 
 about ten minutes. Probable cost, with a pair 
 of, soles at Is. 6d., 2e. 3d. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. 
 sole) cutlets of. 
 
 When soles are so large that they cannot con- 
 veniently be fried whole, they may be divided 
 into cutlets. To do this, slan and clean the 
 sole, and cut it crosswise through the bone 
 into pieces a^bout an inch wide. Fry these in 
 the usual way. When done enough, lay them 
 in a circle on a hot dish, with one piece 
 resting upon another, and put fried parsley in 
 the centre. Kme to fry, according to the thick- 
 ness of the fish. Probable cost, soles. Is. 6d. to 
 2s. 6d. per pair. Sufficient, one moderate-sized 
 pair for three or four persons. 
 SOLE, FILLETED. 
 
 If desired, the fishmonger will fillet the sole. 
 If this has to be done 'at home, proceed as fol- 
 lows. Take a large sole, and cut off closely the 
 head, tail, and fins. Remove both the skins by 
 cutting them at the tail, and drawing them 
 over the head. Lay the fish flat on the table, 
 and with a sharp knife make a deep incision 
 close to the backbone the whole length of the 
 fish. Insert the knife to the head between the 
 fin-bones and the fillet, just by the head, pass 
 it under the fish from head to tail, and thus 
 raise it, and remove it in one piece. In this 
 way take ofE the four fillets, cut each one across, 
 and trim the ends neatly; season them with 
 pepper and 'salt, flour the fillets, and dip them 
 m egg and bread-raspings ; let them lie an hour, 
 then fry them in hot fat till they are lightly 
 browned. Drain them well, and dish them in 
 
 a circle, with one fillet resting upon another. 
 Send parsley, shrimp, tomato, Italian, ravigote, 
 or Dutch sauce to tabl'e with them. If liked, 
 the fillets may be rolled and tied with thin 
 twine before being egged and breaded. Time, 
 about three minutes to fry the fillets. Probable 
 cost, one large sole. Is. 6d. Sufficient for four 
 persons. 
 SOLE, FILLETED (k la Tartare). 
 
 Fillet a large fresh sole in the usual way. 
 Cut the pieces across, flour them, and dip them 
 in egg and bread-crumbs. Let them lie in a cool 
 place for an hour, and fry them in hot fat till 
 they arc of a bright brown colour. Drain them 
 on a sieve before the fire for two or three 
 minutes to free them perfectly from fat, and 
 place them in a circle on a cold dish, with one 
 piece overlapping the other. About an hour 
 before the fish is to be served, prepare the sauce, 
 and set it in a cool place till wanted.' Serve 
 in the centre of the circle. The sauce may be 
 made as follows. Put the yolk of an egg, freed 
 from the speck, into a bowl. Add a pinch of 
 salt and a pinch of pepper, and stir in by drops 
 about four ounces of good Lucca oil. Beat the 
 sauce thoroughly between every addition, for 
 the success of the sauce depends upon this being 
 done, and with every eighth tea-spoonful put in 
 a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar and a tea- 
 spoonful of chilli vinegar. When the sauce is 
 thick and smooth like cream, stir in a table- 
 spoonful of dry mustard, a tea-spoonful of 
 essejice of anchovy, and a table-spoonful of 
 chopped ravigote, chervil, and tarragon. Taste 
 the seasoning, add a little salt and cayenne, if 
 required, and serve. Time to fry the fillets, 
 about three minutes. Probable cost, one large 
 sole. Is. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 SOLE, FILLETED (k I'ltalienne). 
 
 Fillet a large fresh sole in the usual way, and 
 divide each fillet into halves by cutting it 
 across. Season the pieces with pepper and salt, 
 and rub them over with cut lemon. Eub two 
 ounces of butter into eight ounces of biscuit 
 fiour. Add a pinch of salt, and make a stiff 
 paste by mixing with the flour the yolk of an 
 egg which hias been beaten up with the eighth 
 of a pint of cold water. Eoll this paste out very 
 thin, and cut it into pieces of a size and shape 
 that will entirely cover the filleted fish. Wrap 
 each piece of fish in the paste, press the edges 
 closely, and fry the fillets in hot fat over a 
 slow fire till they are brightly browned. Drain 
 them from the fat, and serve on a dish in a 
 circle, with one fillet overlapping another. 
 Pour cold Tartar sauce (see Sole, Filleted, A 
 LA TAaiABE) into the centre, and serve. Time 
 to fry the fillets, about half an hour. Probable 
 cost, one large sole. Is. or Is. 6d. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 SOLE, FILLETED AND MARINADED (or Sole k 
 rOrly). 
 
 Divide the fillets of a large sole into fingers, 
 an inch wide. Put them into a dish, season 
 with pepper and salt, and put with them a small 
 finely-minced onion, a table-spoonful of picked 
 and washed parsley, and a little oil and vine- 
 gar. Let the fish lie in this marinade for an 
 hour, and turn it over occasionally, that it may 
 be equally impregnated with the flavour. Make 
 
SOL 
 
 838 
 
 SOL 
 
 a, little frying-batter as follows. Put four 
 ounces of flour into a bowl, and stir into it a 
 pinch of salt and a gill of lukewarm water. Beat 
 the yolks of two eggs with two table-spoonfuls 
 of oil, and add the mixture to the flour, etc. 
 The batter ought to be a little thicker than 
 cream. A few minutes before the batter is 
 wanted, whisk the whites of the eggs, and add 
 them to it. Drain the fillets on a clean cloth, 
 and dip each piece separately into the batter, 
 with which it should be covered entirely, but 
 not too thickly. Fry the fillets in boiling; fat, 
 and move them about till they are equally 
 browned. Drain them from the fat, and serve 
 on a neatly-folded napkin. Send maitre d'hotel, 
 tomato, Dutch, shrimp, or white sauce to table 
 in a tureen. Time to fry the fillets, about a 
 quarter of an hour. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 SOLE, FILLETED AND ROLLED. 
 
 Take a large sole and half a pint of freshly- 
 boiled and picked shrimps. Pound the shritiips 
 with a third of their bulk in fresh butter, two 
 table-spoonfuls of fine bread-crumbs, and a high 
 seasoning of mace and cayenne. Fillet the 
 sole, and divide the pounded shrimps into four 
 portions. Spread a portion upon each fillet, 
 roll it up from the tail to the head, and tie it 
 with twine. Lay the rolls in a thickly-buttered 
 baking-dish, sprinkle bread-crumbs thickly over 
 them, pour clarified butter upon them, and 
 add a, wine-glassful of clear stock and half a, 
 tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy. Bake the 
 soles in a moderate oven. When done enough, 
 take up the soles, mix a little lemon-iuice with 
 the sauce, and strain it over the fish. Time 
 to bake, ten to twelve minutes. Probable cost, 
 one large sole. Is. 6d. or more. Sufficient for 
 four persons. 
 
 SOLE, FILLETED, AND SERVED WITH MUSSELS. 
 
 Fillet a large fresh sole, divide the fillets into 
 halves, rub them with a freshly-cut lemon, and 
 let them stand in a cool place for an hour. 
 Wash and brush a quart of mussels; put them 
 into a saucepan without any liquor, and put 
 with them a tea-spoonful of salt, a pinch of 
 grated lemon-rind, half a blade of mace, two 
 allspice, half a bay-leaf, and, if liked, a piece 
 of garlic the size of a pea. Lay a clean cloth 
 upon the fish, and shake the pan over the fire 
 till the shells open. Turn them out, beard 
 them, and take out the moss and a small crab 
 which may be inside, and strain the liquor. Put 
 the filleted soles into a saucepan with a slice of 
 fresh butter, and add a small glassful of Madeira 
 and an equal quantity of the strained liquor. 
 Let them boil up once, then draw the saucepan 
 to the side, and simmer very gently until done 
 enough. Put in the mussels and the remainder 
 of the liquor; simmer the preparation for two 
 minutes. Lay the soles on a dish, put the 
 mussels upon them, and keep them hot till the 
 sauce is ready. Let the sauce cool for half a 
 minute, stir quickly into it the yolk of an egg 
 beaten up with two table-spoonfuls of thick 
 cream, an! when it is smooth pour it over the 
 fish. Serve immediately. Time to simmer the 
 soles, about ten minutes. Probable cost, one 
 large sole. Is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. 
 
 SOLE, FILLETED, WITH WHITE SAUCE. 
 
 Fillet a large sole, and season the fillets with 
 a little pepper and salt, grated nutmeg, grated 
 lemon-rind, and finely-minced shallot. Put 
 them into a saucepan, pour over them four 
 ounces of clarified butter, and let them simmer 
 ten minutes. Add the strained juice of a lemon 
 and a glass of light wine; simmer five minutes 
 longer, and serve the fish with good white sauce 
 poured over it. Time to simmer the fish, about 
 a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, one large 
 sole. Is. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 SOLE, FILLETS OF (i I'Aurore). 
 
 Take up the fillets of two pairs of soles, and 
 skin them. Have ready forcemeat quenelles, 
 made of whitings, with the spawn of lobsters 
 put in, to give colour. Spread this forcemeat 
 over each fillet, then roll them in the same 
 manner as the paupiettes (see Sole, Paxtpiettes 
 OF Fillets of). Next skewer them with silver 
 skewers, three on each skewer; dust a little 
 pepper and salt over them. Season the force- 
 meat rather highly. Lay the skewered fillets in 
 a baking-pan, cover them with layers of bacon, 
 and bake them. When done, take them off 
 the skewers, pare the forcemeat that has pro- 
 truded, and dish them neatly. With a part of 
 the pounded lobsters' spawn which you have 
 kept aside mix two spoonfuls of strong stock 
 deprived of all fat, and a good lump of fresh 
 butter; drain the whole through a tamis, that 
 it may be fine. Add to it a little essence of 
 anchovies, with pepper, salt, and lemon-juice. 
 Keep the sauce very hot, and cover the fillets 
 with it. Observe — all the bacon must be 
 taken off. 
 
 SOLE, FILLETS OF (^ la Dieppoise). 
 
 Cleanse, wash, and fillet a pair of soles. Eoll 
 up the fillets neatly and tie them with tape; 
 put them on in cold water, bring it slowly to 
 the boil, and simmer gently until quite tender. 
 Take them up, drain them, and remove the 
 tapes. Make a mussel sauce as follows. Cook 
 two dozen mussels, take them out of their shells, 
 beard them, and set them aside in a basin. 
 Put the liquor which will have run from them 
 into an enamelled saucepan, heat it to boiling 
 point, mix a dessert-spoonful of flour with a 
 quarter of a pint of cream, stir this into the 
 liquor, add a sprig of parsley and a small onion, 
 and simmer all gently until the sauce is nicely 
 thickened. Add the mussels, pepper, salt, and 
 the juice of half a lemon. Heat by the side of 
 the fire for fifteen minutes, stir in halt an ounce 
 of -butter, and the sauce is ready. Dish the 
 fillets of sole neatly, pour the sauce over, and 
 serve very hot. 
 
 SOLE, FILLETS OF {k I'Orly). 
 
 {See Soles, Filleted and Mabinaded.) 
 SOLE, FILLETS OF (k la Rochfort). 
 
 Fillet a pair of soles. Pound a quarter of a 
 pint of shelled shrimps in a mortar with one 
 ounce of butter and a dessert-spoonful of bread- 
 crumbs, and a seasoning of salt and a little 
 cayenne; mix well, and spread a thin layer of 
 the mixture on each fillet. Eoll the fillets up 
 neatly, and fix them with a skewer. Egg and 
 bread-crumb them carefully, and arrange them 
 in A frying-baeket. Plunge the basket into a 
 
SOL. 
 
 839 
 
 SOL 
 
 saucepan of boiling fat, and fry the fillets to a 
 light golden colour. 
 
 SOLE, FILLETS OF (4 la Windham). 
 
 Cleanse, wash, and fillet a pair of soles, roll 
 up the fillets neatly, and tie them with tape. 
 Put the fillets into cold water, bring slowly to 
 the boil, and boil for three minutes. Drain 
 them, and have ready half a pint of bechamel 
 sauce very hot; put in the fillets, and simmer 
 them for ten minutes, then add half a pint of 
 green peas freshly cooked, sea'son with pepper 
 and salt, and mix well. Dish the fillets neatly, 
 remove the tapes, pour the sauce over, and serve 
 very hot. 
 
 SOLE, FILLETS OF (au Gratin). 
 
 Take four ounces of mushrooms, four ounces 
 of parsley, and two ounces of shallot. ■ Peel the 
 mushrooms and the shallot, and wash the pars- 
 ley, then mince the ingredients separately. 
 Put half an ounce of butter into a saucepan with 
 the minced shallot, a pinch of pepper, and a 
 pinch of salt. Stir this briskly over the fire for 
 five minutes, add the parsley and the mush- 
 rooms, and stir the mixture for five minutes 
 longer ; then pour it out. Butter a tin or silver 
 baking-pan rather thickly, lay the herbs in it, 
 place upon them a sole, neatly filleted and 
 trimmed, and cover the fillets with finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs. Put little pieces of butter here 
 and there upon the fish, moisten it with a glass- 
 ful of light wine, a tea-spoonful of anchovy, and 
 a tea-spoonful of ketchup. Bake the sole until 
 done enough. Serve it very hot in the dish in 
 which it was cooked. If the surface is not 
 sufiiciently browned, hold a salamander or red- 
 hot shovel over it for three or four minutes. 
 Time to bake, about a quarter of an hour. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. Probable cost, 
 2s. 6d. 
 
 SOLE, FILLETS OF (au Vin Blanc). 
 
 Take the fillets from » large skinned sole. 
 Cut them through again, making eight fillets ; 
 season the inside with lemon-juice, salt, and 
 pepper. Roll up, beginning with the narrow end, 
 and tie with thread. Lay them in a buttered 
 tin, squeeze a little lemon-juice over, and pour 
 in a gill of white wine. Lay a buttered paper 
 over, and cook until done, then put on a hot 
 dish. Eeduce the liquor in the pan by quick 
 boiling, add a gill of bechamel, season del? 
 cately, and pour it over the fish. 
 
 SOLE, FILLETS OF, BAKED, WITH SWEET 
 HERBS. 
 
 Fillet a large sole, and divide the fillets into 
 halves. Eub these with a freshly-cut lemon, 
 and leave them in a cool place for an hour or 
 two. Prepare some savoury crumbs as follows. 
 Mix two ounces of finely-powdered bread-crumbs 
 with a little pepper and salt, a pinch of grated 
 nutmeg, the grated peel of half a lemon, and a 
 tea-spoonful of mixed sweet herbs. Dip the 
 fillets first into clarified butter, then into the 
 crumbs, and when the butter is set dip them in 
 beaten egg and into the crumbs a second time. 
 Butter a baking-dish thickly, place the soles in 
 it, lay two ounces of butter here and there upon 
 them in little pieces, and bake the fish in a 
 brisk oven. Send shrimp, anchovy, or caper 
 sauce to table in a tureen. If the flavour is 
 
 liked, the dish in which the soles are baked oai^ 
 be rubbed quickly with garlic before the soles 
 are put into it. Time to bake the fillets, eight 
 or ten minutes. Probable cost of one large sole. 
 Is. 6d. Sufiicient for four persons. 
 
 SOLE, FILLETS OF (Turkish fashion). 
 
 Take off and saute the fillets. Have some 
 rice swelled and made soft in good con- 
 somme; mix it with a few spoonfuls of good 
 bechamel, to put in the centre of the dish : 
 this rice must be thick, in order that it may 
 be dished in a pyramid. To mask or cover the 
 soles, take three spoonfuls of bechamel mixed 
 with a quarter of a pound of butter, a tea- 
 spoonful of caviare, and a little salt and pepper. 
 Work this sauce well, and cover the fillets only. 
 The rice is to form the centre of the dish. Prob- 
 able cost, 2s. 
 
 SOLE, FILLETS OF, VOL-AU-VENT OF. 
 
 This is a dish of a former day's remains. 
 Pare the skin; cut the soles into round pieces 
 of the size of half a crown. Then have a 
 cream sauce, or else four spoonfuls of bechamel 
 mixed with a quarter of a pound of butter, and 
 a little salt and pepper. Let the sauce be made 
 hot, without boiling, the soles put into it, and 
 then the whole mixed into a vol-au-vent. The 
 sauce must be kept rather thick, for fear of 
 making the crust soft. 
 
 SOLE FOR A CONVALESCENT. 
 
 Take one fillet of a large fresh sole, sprinkle a 
 little pepper and salt upon it, and put it into a 
 saucepan with four table-spoonfuls of cold water. 
 Bring the liquor gently to the boil, skim it, 
 and simmer very gently till the fish is done 
 enough. Take up the sole with an egg-slice, 
 and place it on a hot dish. Stir the well-beaten 
 yolk of a new-laid egg into the water, and 
 whisk the sauce over the fire till it begins to 
 thicken. Pour it over the fish, and serve im- 
 mediately. Time to simmer the sole, eight to 
 ten minutes. Probable cost, one large sole. 
 Is. 6d. Sufiicient for one person. 
 
 SOLE, FRICASSEED. 
 
 Take a pair of large soles and one small one; 
 clean, skin, and fry -all three, and drain' them 
 on a sieve before the fire to free them from 
 fat. Eaise the fiesh of the small sole from the 
 bones, tear it into flakes, and mix with it an 
 equal quantity of finely-grated bread-crumbs, a 
 tea-spoonful of picked and chopped parsley, a 
 pinch of grated lemon-rind, and a little pepper 
 and salt. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, 
 and with the fingers work into the mixture two 
 ounces of fresh butter and one egg. Make it up 
 into small balls, and "fry these in hot fat. Put 
 half a pint of good stock into a saucepan, 
 thicken it with brown thickening, and add a 
 table-spoonful of lemon-juice and a glassful of 
 port or claret. Season with salt and cayenne, 
 if required. Let it boil till it is thick and 
 smooth, lay the soles and the balls into it, and 
 simmer all gently together till the fish is heated 
 throughout. Lift the soles upon a dish, place 
 the balls round them, pour the sauce over all, 
 garnish with cut lemon and parsley, and serve 
 very hot. Time to simmer the fish in the gravy, 
 three or four minutes. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
SOL 
 
 840 
 
 SOL 
 
 SOLE, FRIED. 
 
 Choose a sole weighing from three-quarters of 
 a pound to a pound. Scrape thoroughly, cut off 
 the fins and gills, wash the fish well, and wipe 
 it dry; take off the dark skin, by cutting it at 
 the tail and drawing it over the head. The 
 roes may either be taken out, or left in and 
 fried with the flsh. Dry the sole thoroughly, 
 ilour it, and brush it over on both sides with 
 well-beaten yolk of egg; shake very finely- 
 grated crumbs of bread all over, and leave it in 
 a cool place for an hour, if time will permit. 
 Put into a frying-pan as much good dripping as 
 will, when melted, cover the fish. When it is 
 quite hot — that is, when it ceases hissing and 
 is still — immediately put the fish into it. when 
 it is brown on one side, turn it upon the other 
 by means of a strong fork stuck firmly into the 
 head of the fish. When done enough, which 
 point is generally reached when a thick smoke 
 rises from it, place it on a hot cloth, and 
 put it in the front of the fire to drain the fat 
 from it. The cook should on no account omit 
 to do this, as greasy fish is exceedingly un- 
 pleasant. Place a, warm napkin over a fish 
 strainer on a dish, lay the sole upon it, and 
 garnish with fried parsley. Send melted 
 butter or shrimp sauce to table in a tureen. 
 The inexperienced cook will find it to her ad- 
 vantage to use very fine bread-raspings, or 
 crusts of bread dried in the oven and finely 
 pounded, instead of bread-crumbs. By using 
 these she will ensure the good appearance of 
 the fish. It should be remembered that fat 
 which has been used for frying fish can be 
 used (for that purpose only) again and again 
 if immediately after being used it is cooled a 
 little, then poured through a metal strainer to 
 free it from crumbs, and make it pure and clean, 
 and put aside in a cool place for future use. 
 Great care must be taken to prevent it burning, 
 and fresh fat may be added when necessary. 
 Sometimes, when a sole is held up to the light, 
 though it is fresh, a, dark streak may be seen 
 by the side of the roe. This arises from the fish 
 having been so closely packed with the others 
 after it was caught, that it was literally 
 smothered to death. In cases like this the roe 
 should be removed before the fish is fried. When 
 eggs are scarce or expensive, a thin batter of flour 
 and water may be used instead of egg and bread- 
 crumbs. Time to fry a moderate-sized sole 
 with plenty of fat, ten minutes. Probable cost, 
 soles. Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. per pair. Sufficient, one 
 pair of soles for three or four persons. 
 
 SOLE, FRIED IN OIL (to be eaten cold). 
 
 Clean, scale, skin, empty, trim, and dry a 
 moderate-sized sole, and brush it over with 
 beaten egg. Put six table-spoonfuls of best 
 Lucca oil in a frying-pan, let it get quite hot, 
 then put in the fish. Let it remain for five 
 minutes, turn it over, and then leave it in five 
 minutes longer. Drain it well, put it aside, and 
 serve cold. Time to fry the sole, ten minutes. 
 Probable cost. Is. or Is. 6d. Sufficient for two 
 or three persons. 
 
 SOLE, GRENADE OF. 
 
 When there are any remains of cooked fish 
 they may be used with a large fresh sole as 
 follows. Lift the cooked fish from the bone. 
 
 and tear it into flakes. Mix with it a third of 
 its bulk in finely-grated bread-crumbs, and add 
 half an anchovy freed from bone and finely 
 pounded, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, the 
 yolk of a hard-boiled egg, and a little pepper 
 and salt. Mix these ingredients thorougaly, 
 work in with the finger two ounces of fresh 
 butter, and add one raw egg to bind the force- 
 meat together. Clean, scale, and skin the sole, 
 split it open, and carefully remove the bone. 
 In its place spread the forcemeat, put the two 
 halves of the sole together again, and fasten 
 them in their position with four small skewers. 
 Put the fish into a well-buttered baking-dish, 
 pour a cupful of stock round it, and bake in a 
 moderately-heated oven. When done enough, 
 take it up, strain the gravy, and flavour it with 
 a spoonful of the liquor in which gherkins 
 have been pickled, and a spoonful of caper vine- 
 gar. Make it hot, pour it round the fish, and 
 serve. Time to bake the sole, about half an 
 hour. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for three 
 or four persons. 
 
 SOLE IN CREAM (a delicate and delicious dish). 
 
 Take a pair of moderate-sized soles, scale and 
 skin them, and clean them with scrupulous care. 
 Put them into a saucepan of boiling water, and 
 let them simmer gently for two minutes. Take 
 them up, drain them, and put them into a 
 clean saucepan. Pour over them as much sweet 
 cream as will barely cover them, add a, little 
 salt and cayenne, a pinch of pounded mace, and 
 an inch or two of lemon-rind, and let them 
 simmer gently until done enough. Take them 
 up with a slicer, and place them upon a hot dish. 
 Thicken the cream with a little arrowroot, stir 
 a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice into 
 it, and pour it over the fish. It may seem 
 unnecessary that the soles should be boiled for 
 a minute or two in water before they are put 
 into the cream, but it will be found that if this 
 is not done the sauce will have a slightly un- 
 pleasant fishy flavour. Time to simmer the fish, 
 eight to ten minutes. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. Probable cost, soles. Is. 6d. to 2s. 
 per pair. 
 
 SOLE, LEMON. 
 
 Lemon soles are an inferior kind of soles, but 
 are not to be despised. One skin is darker 
 than the other, but not black like a sole 
 proper. To be in perfection they must be 
 fresh, and although they may be prepared in 
 any of the ways given for sole, they are very 
 nice cooked plainly, with both the skins left 
 on. Probable price, 4d. to 8d. per pound. 
 
 SOLE, LEMON (k la Lisbon). 
 
 Take two good-sized lemon soles, slit the 
 fish on both sides, and pour in a little anchovy 
 sauce. Butter a fire-proof dish, put a. little 
 chopped parsley in, and two mushrooms, sliced. 
 Then place the fish in, grate a little cheese 
 over, add a dusting of black pepper, a few 
 pats of butter, and bake in a moderate oven 
 for half an hour. Serve in the dish in which 
 the fish are cooked. 
 
 SOLE, MAYONNAISE. 
 
 Fillet a pair of soles, roll them up and fasten 
 them with thread, season with pepper, salt, and 
 lemon-juice. Bake in rather a hot oven for 
 
SOL 
 
 841 
 
 SOL 
 
 eight minutes, basting with butter once or 
 twice during the process. Let them get cold, 
 then put a few drops of essence of anchovies 
 over each fillet, and cover with thick mayon- 
 naise sauce. Garnish with chillies and water- 
 cress. 
 
 SOLE, NORMANDE. 
 
 Choose a thick sole, scale and clean it, and 
 draw off the dark skin by cutting it through at 
 the tail end and drawing it over the head. 
 Butter thickly a dish that will stand the fire, 
 and strew over it some very thin slices of 
 onions. A silver dish is the most suitable for 
 the purpose, as the fish should be served in 
 the dish in which it was baked. Season the 
 sole with salt and pepper, and lay it on the 
 onion ; sprinkle a little cht)pped parsley on the 
 surface, and moisten the fish well with French 
 white wine. Put it in a gentle oven, and bake 
 it until done enough. Take a dozen fine large 
 mussels, cleanse and scrape them, boil them 
 in the usual way, beard and drain them, 
 and lay them on the sole. Make a quarter of 
 a pint of rich white sauce, mix with this the 
 gravy from the sole and a little of that in 
 which the mussels were cooked. Beduce the 
 sauce till it coats the spoon; pour a little of 
 it upon the sole and the mussels, and put the 
 dish again in the oven for a few minutes to 
 make it quite hot, but be careful not to colour 
 the sauce at all. Serve very hot, and send the 
 sauce which remains to table in a tureen. 
 For a superlative dish, oysters and mushrooms 
 may be laid upon the sole, as well as mussels, 
 and the liquor from the oysters may be added 
 to the sauce. Also fried smelts, crayfish, and 
 fried croutons of bread may be used to garnish 
 the dish. When preparing the fish for baking, 
 it should be remembered that cider and perry 
 replace French wine so well that it is afinost 
 needless to employ the latter. The Normans 
 use the best sparkling cider — " Sillerie de Nor- 
 mandie." Time to bake the sole, half to three- 
 quarters of an hour, according to size. Prob- 
 able cost, one thick sole. Is. Sufficient for three 
 persons. 
 
 SOLE, PAUPIETTES OF FILLETS OF. 
 
 The farce or forcemeat must be made of 
 whiting (see Whitino Foroemrat). Fillet 
 several pairs of soles, trim them evenly, and 
 season them with pepper and salt. Do not 
 skin the white side of the sole, but remember 
 to scrape it well. Spread a little forcemeat on 
 the fillets on the white side, and roll them round 
 to make the paupiettes. Butter a piece of 
 paper large enough to contain two or three; 
 roll th«m in that paper, and do the same for 
 the others; then put them into the oven, bake 
 them ten or twelve minutes, and drain and 
 make them all equal : place them in a circle 
 on a hot dish, and garnish prettily. Serve 
 them with the same sauce as for whitings, or 
 white sharp sauce. 
 
 SOLE PIE. 
 
 Take a pair of moJerate-sized soles, or, if 
 preferred, the remains of fried or boiled soles. 
 Lift the flesh from the bones, and place it in 
 layers in a buttered pie-dish. Between each 
 layer put a few fresh or tinned oysters and 
 the liquor; season the fish with pepper, salt. 
 
 and pounded mace, and lay little pieces of 
 butter here and there upon the top. A dozen 
 oysters will be sufficient for a pound of sole. 
 Cover the (}ish with good puff-paste, and bake 
 in a moderate oven. When done, pour into 
 the pie, through a strainer put into the hole 
 at the top, as much white sauce as will moisten 
 it. This sauce may be prepared as follows. 
 Make stock by boiling the fish-bones in as 
 much water as will cover them. Strain the 
 liquor, mix with it an equal qiiantity of cream, 
 thicken with flour, and season it. The remains 
 of cold cod may be made into a, pie in the same 
 way. When the pastry is baked the pie is done 
 enough. Probable cost, soles. Is. 6d. to 2s. 
 per pair. 
 
 SOLE, ROULETTES OF. 
 
 Choose fine fish : remove the heads, fins, and 
 tails. Strip the fish from the bone. Cut small 
 oblong fillets; lay these in a marinade of salt. 
 
 pepper, lemon-juice, and a grate of nutmeg, 
 for half an hour. Boll the fillets egg-shaped, 
 and bind them with thread. Pack closely to- 
 
 gether in a stewpan with a little water or broth, 
 adding some butter and lemon-juice. Cover 
 them closely, and stew gently till done enough. 
 Serve the roulettes in their own sauce, or glaze 
 them brown and serve as ragout. 
 
 SOLE, SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Mix a table-spoonful of dried flour with a 
 good slice of fresh butter. Pour half a pint of 
 boiling water upon the mixture, stir it well, 
 and let it boil for ten minutes. Add a tea- 
 spoonful of tarragon vinegar and a tea-spoonful 
 of chilli vinegar. A tea-spoonful of essence of 
 anchovy may be added if liked. Serve imme- 
 diately. Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable 
 cost, 6d. Sufficient for a pair of soles. 
 
 SOLE, SAVOURY OF. 
 
 Take the remains of some cooked soles, chop 
 them up rather finely, then mix them with a 
 table-spoonful of essence of anchovies, a little 
 cayenne pepper, and an ounce of butter. Sim- 
 mer for five minutes, then put the mixture on 
 squares or rounds of hot buttered toast, sprinkle 
 a few picked shrimps over, and garnish with 
 rings of hard-boiled eggs. 
 SOLE, SMALL PATTIES OF. 
 
 Make small vol-au-vent cases in the usual 
 way. Bake them, take off the covers, and fill 
 them with a savoury preparation made by cut- 
 ting the flesh of a cold fried sole into dice, and 
 warming them in thick AUemand sauce. Put 
 the covers on the top, and serve on a dish 
 covered with a napkin. 
 SOLE, STEWED fa. maigre dish). 
 
 Skin, scale, and clean a large sole, and put 
 it into a saucepan with an onion stuck with 
 two cloves, fifteen black peppercorns, and as 
 many berries of allspice. Pour upon it as 
 much boiling water as will cover it, and let 
 it simmer gently until done enough. Take the 
 fish up carefully with a slicer, lay it on a hot 
 dish, and keep it hot for a few minutes. 
 Thicken the sauce with flour and butter, and — 
 supposing there is half a pint— stir into it half 
 ■a. tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, a table- 
 spoonful of mushroom ketchup, two table- 
 spoonfuls of claret, and a pinch of cayenne. 
 
SOL 
 
 812 
 
 SOL 
 
 Let it boil till thick and smooth, strain it over 
 the fish, garnish with toasted sippets, and 
 serve very hot. Time to stew the sole, about 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost, 23. Sufficient 
 for two persons. 
 
 SOLE, STEWED (another way). 
 
 Glean, skin, and scale a pair of soles, and 
 then stew them as before with as much boiling 
 water as will cover them, an onion stuck with 
 two cloves, fifteen peppercorns, and fifteen 
 berries of allspice. Let them simmer for a 
 quarter of an hour. Put into a separate sauce- 
 pan half a pint of milk or cream, the thin rind 
 of a small lemon, a little salt and cayenne, and 
 a thickening of flour and butter. Strain into 
 this sauce half the liquor in which the fish was 
 boiled, lift the soles into it, and let them sim- 
 mer in it ten minutes. Lift the soles into a hot 
 dish, pour the sauce over them, garnish with 
 toasted sippets, and serve. Time, half an hour. 
 Probable cost, if milk be used, 2s. to 2s. 6d. 
 A pair of moderate-sized soles are enough for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 SOLE, STUFFED AND BAKED (a Portuguese recipe). 
 Make a little forcemeat as follows. Mince 
 very finely six ounces of lean veal or beef 
 thoroughly freed from skin and fat. Mix with 
 it two ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs 
 which have been soaked in milk and squeezed 
 dry, and two ounces of shredded suet, butter, 
 or fat bacon that has been slightly fried. 
 Pound the ingredients in a mortar with one 
 fillet of anchovy, a table-spoonful of picked 
 and chopped parsley, a small onion^ and a, 
 flavouring of pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. 
 Bind the mixture together with the yolk of an 
 egg. Clean, skin, and fillet a large fresh sole. 
 Squeeze a little lemon-juice upon the fillets, 
 spread the forcemeat upon them, roll them 
 round, and tie them with twine. Put the rolls 
 in a buttered dish, brush over with beaten 
 egg, strew bread-crumbs over them, and put 
 into the dish under them a cupful of gravy 
 mixed with what remains of the egg, a tea- 
 spoonful of caper vinegar, a filleted anchovy, 
 and a tea-spoonful of shredded parsley. Cover 
 the dish tightly, and bake the rolls in a gentle 
 oven. When done enough, put the rolls into 
 a hot dish, strain the gravy over, and garnish 
 with fried parsley. Sometimes the rolls are 
 dipped in French fryiug-batter, and fried till 
 crisp, then baked afterwards. Time to bake 
 the fish, about ten Tninutes. Probable cost, 
 one large sole, Is. or Is. 6d. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. 
 
 SOLE, WITH MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Clean, but do not skin, a pair of moderate- 
 sized fresh soles. Lay them in a saiicepan, 
 cover with- equal quantities of milk and water, 
 and add an ounce of butter and a table-spoon- 
 ful of strained lemon-juice. Bring them gently 
 to the point of boiling, draw them back a 
 little, and let them simmer gently until done 
 enough. Take them up, drain them, put them 
 on a hot dish, and pour over them three-quar- 
 ters of a pint of white mushroom sauce (see 
 Mushrooms, Satjce or. White). Time to sim- 
 mer the soles, six or seven minutes after the 
 liquor boils. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 SOLE, WITH WATER SOUGH ET. 
 
 Take some fine fresh soles, scale the white 
 side, and take the skin from the black side. 
 Empty out all the intestines, and wash the fish 
 thoroughly in several waters. When the soles 
 are quite clean, boil them in water souchet, 
 which should be prepared as follows. Take 
 some roots of parsley, and cut them into slices 
 about the eighth of an inch thick and an inch 
 in length. Put these roots into some water 
 with a bunch of parsley, green onions, and a 
 little salt; let them stew for an hour, then 
 stew the soles in this water. When the fish are 
 done enough, have ready some parsley leaves, 
 without the stalks, which have been blanched 
 separately in salt and water. Drain the soles, 
 and take care that the parsley roots are pre- 
 served. Put the fish" into a tureen with some of 
 the liquor in which they have been stewed, and 
 which you should strain through a silk sieve. 
 Throw in the parsley roots and leaves, and 
 serve up the water souchet without any bread 
 in it; but in a separate plate send to table a 
 few slices of rye-bread and butter. 
 
 SOLID CREAM. 
 
 Take half a pint of double cream, or cream 
 which has stood for twenty-four hours before 
 being skimmed. Sweeten it with an ounce of 
 sugar and flavour pleasantly. Whisk it with 
 an ordinary whisk in a cool place till it begins 
 to thicken, then stop instantly. If the whisk- 
 ing is kept up too long the cream will curdle. 
 It will be twice its original bulk. 
 
 SOLID RASPBERRY. 
 
 Dissolve half a pint of raspberry jelly, or 
 rub a pint of the fruit through a sieve; add 
 two ounces of powdered sugar and a table- 
 epoonful of lemon-juice. Stir the mixture till 
 it is almost cool, then add three-quarters of an 
 ounce of isinglass or gelatine which has been 
 dissolved in a tea^cupful of water, and stir it 
 again for a few minutes. Mix lightly with half 
 a pint of solid cream (see last recipe) and turn 
 into a damp mould. Care must be taken to use 
 an earthenware, not a metal mould, or the 
 colour of the solid will be spoilt. Time, about 
 twelve hours to set the solid. Probable cost, 
 3b. Sufficient for a quart mould, 
 
 SOLID RATAFIA. 
 
 Crumble six ounces of macaroons and two 
 ounces of ratafia cakes, put them into a bowl, 
 and pour upon them a pint of boiling cream 
 sweetened and flavoured with lemon-rind. Stir 
 the mixture till it is almost cool, and the bis- 
 cuits are dissolved, then add half an ounce of 
 isinglass or gelatine which has been dissolved 
 in a tea-cupful of milk. Stir the cream till it 
 is cold, pour it into a damp mould, and leave 
 it in a cool place till firm. Turn it upon a 
 glass dish, and serve in the same. Time, about 
 twelve hours to set the solid. Probable cost, 
 about 3s. Sufficient for a quart mould. 
 
 SOLID SYLLABUB. 
 
 Eub five or six lumps" of sugar upon the rind 
 of two large fresh lemons till the yellow part 
 is taken off, then add a little more sugar to 
 make up the weight to half a pound. Crush 
 this to powder, put it into a bowl, and strain 
 upon it the juice of the lemons. Add a pint 
 
SOM 
 
 843 
 
 SOR 
 
 of sherry or raisin wine, and a pint of double 
 cream, that is, cream that has stood for twenty- 
 four hours. Whisk the mixture till it is a solid 
 froth, and lay it on a muslin sieve. Leave it 
 for twelve hours, then serve in glasses. Time 
 to froth the syllabub, an hour or more. Prob- 
 able cost, 3s. 6d. 
 
 SOMERSETSHIRE FRUMENTY. 
 
 The frumenty may be served hot or cold. 
 Bruise a quart of wheat thoroughly, put it into 
 a stone jar, pour a quart of water upon it, and 
 bake in a gentle oven till it is soft. Put a 
 quart of new milk into a bowl, and pulp into 
 it as much wheat as will make it of the con- 
 sistency of very thick cream. Stir into it 
 sugar and nutmeg to sweeten and flavour it 
 pleasantly, and acid two table-spoonfuls of 
 picked currants. Stir the mixture over the 
 fire till the currants are soft. Eemove it from 
 the fire, and add the yolks of two eggs beaten 
 up with two table-spoonfuls of milk, then stir 
 it again over the fire for a few minutes, but 
 do not let it boil. Serve in a deep dish. Time 
 to bake the wheat, about four hours. 
 
 SOMERSETSHIRE SYLLABUB. 
 
 Put a pint of port and a pint of sherry into 
 a large china bowl, together with six ounces 
 of powdered sugar and half a grated nutmeg. 
 MiUc into the bowl until it is full, or, if pre- 
 ferred, milk into another vessel. Strain the 
 irilk, and while it is still warm pour it from a 
 good height upon the wine. In twenty minutes 
 cover it with clotted cream, and garnish with 
 nonpareil comfits. A true Somersetshire sylla- 
 bub can be prepared only with milk warm and 
 fresh from the cow. Sufficient for a large 
 syllabub. 
 SORBET OF CHAMPAGNE. 
 
 Take a pint of plain syrup, a bottle of dry 
 champagne, the juice of one lemon and four 
 oranges, and some of the peel of both. Boil 
 the syrup, and mix it with half the champagne, 
 and the juice of the lemon and oranges. Let 
 the peel soak in the boiling syrup for a quarter 
 of an hour. Strain into a freezing-pan, and, 
 when the ice is set, add the remainder of the 
 champagne in small quantities. 
 SORBET OF KIRSCHENWASSER. 
 
 Make some ice as follows. Mix tlioroughly a 
 pint of syrup at 35°, and a pint of Chablis. 
 Strain the mixture through silk into a freezing- 
 pan, and freeze in the usual way. When frozen, 
 - flavour it with three table-spoonfuls of kirschen- 
 wasser. Put the sorbet into glasses, and serve 
 it at dinner after the roasts. 
 
 SORBET OF RUM. 
 
 Make the ice as before, but before freezing 
 mix with the sorbet a quarter of a pint of 
 strained lemon-juice. When frozen, flavour 
 with three table-spoonfuls of fine old Jamaica 
 rum, and serve it in glasses with the roasts. 
 
 SORREL. 
 
 Sorrel is an acid-leaved plant, the leaves of 
 which are largely used on the Continent to 
 make soups, sauces, and salads. Where the 
 taste for it has been acquired, it is con- 
 sidered a pleasant accompaniment to young 
 meat. Sometimes, when sorrel alone is con- 
 
 sidered too acid, a mixture of equal parts 
 of spinach and sorrel is served. Sorrel 
 grows wild, and may be had for the plucking, 
 and gathered thus is very good; nevertheless, 
 as the flavour of cultivated sorrel is much, 
 superior to that of wild sorrel, every garden 
 should contain a few plants. The most useful 
 variety is the broad-leaved sorrel, which is 
 easily propagated either by seed or division 
 of the root. This root, like that of rhubarb, 
 will stand almost any amount of ill-usage. 
 The seed is very small, and must be only 
 slightly covered with earth. The young plants 
 may be thinned to from three to six inches 
 apart; but if they are left crowded no great 
 harm will be done, as they must eventually 
 be transplanted. Spring-sown sorrel may be 
 gathered the next autumn; during the follow- 
 ing season it will afford several cuttings. 
 
 SORREL FOR GARNISHING MEAT. 
 
 Pick three pounds of fresh green sorrel, wash 
 it in several waters, and drain it thoroughly. 
 Put it into a good-sized saucepan with a tea- 
 spoonful of salt and a quart of boiling water, 
 and let it boil quickly till tender, turning occa- 
 sionally to prevent the lower leaves burning to 
 the bottom of the pan. Drain it well, then 
 chop it till very small. Work an ounce of flour 
 into an ounce and a half of butter, and stir the 
 mixture quickly over the fire for three minutes. 
 Put in the sorrel, and add, a little at a time, 
 half a pint of strong stock. Stir the sorrel 
 over the fire for fully twenty minutes. Beat 
 two eggs with three table-spoonfuls of milk, 
 stir this quickly into the sorrel, and in four or 
 five minutes it will be ready for serving. Time, 
 a quarter of an hour to boil the sorreL 
 
 SORREL FRIED IN BATTER. 
 
 Make a small quantity of frying-batter (see 
 Batter roE Petino Vechstables). This will 
 be better if made an hour or two before it is 
 wanted. Take the middle leaves only of the 
 sorrel, wash them in two or three waters, drain 
 and dry them well, and trim them neatly. Dip 
 them in the batter, and fry them in hot fat till 
 crisp and brown. Serve on a hot dish, gar- 
 nished with parsley. Time to fry, three or four 
 minutes. 
 
 SORREL, PUR£e OF (to serve with Cutlets, Roast 
 Veal, etc.). 
 Wash half a peck of fresh green sorrel in 
 several waters ; pick away the stalks, and boil 
 it with half a pint of water till tender, then 
 drain it thoroughly. Slice two large onions, 
 and fry them in butter till they turn yellow; 
 dredge a little flour upon them, and add half a 
 pint of gravy, a small lump of sugar, a pinch 
 of grated nutmeg, and a little pepper and salt. 
 Add the sorrel, and stir it over a- gentle fire for 
 twenty minutes, and afterwards rub it patiently 
 through a hair sieve. It may be served in the 
 centre of a dish, with cutlets round it, or as an 
 accompaniment to roast veal, lamb, or mutton. 
 Time to boil the sorrel, a quarter of an hour. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 SORREL, PUREE OF (another way). 
 
 Wash and pick some sorrel and some' cos or 
 cabbage-lettuces, and put them into a stew- 
 pan with a little water: keep stirring with a 
 
SOR 
 
 844 
 
 SOU 
 
 spoon to prevent them burning; when tender 
 lay them iu a hair sieve to drain ; then put them 
 on the table, and chop well with some trimmings 
 of mushrooms. When chopped fine, put the 
 vegetables into a stewpan with a little butter 
 and a few small pieces of good ham; let them 
 fry a long time, in order to drain the water they 
 contain. When quite dry, mix them with four 
 spoonfuls of Spanish sauce, or more if a large 
 quantity is required, and stew for a long time 
 over a small stove. After they have been con- 
 stantly boiling for an hour, rub them through 
 a tamis. If the puree should happen to be 
 too thick, dilute it with a little consomme or 
 stock broth, or Spanish sauce. If too acid, put 
 in a little glaze and sugar. Always put lettuce 
 with the sorrel, to correct its acidity. When 
 you make a puree of sorrel, put a spoonful of 
 flour to thicken the sauce, and dilute with veal 
 gravy, and then proceed as before. If you have 
 no gravy of veal or of beef, two spoonfuls of 
 broth and a small bit of glaze will answer the 
 same purpose. 
 
 SORREL SALAD. 
 
 Take a quart of fresh green sorrel; pick the 
 leaves from the stalks, but on no account cut 
 them ; wash them well, and drain and dry them 
 thoroughly. Pile them in a salad-bowl, and 
 send any simple salad sauce to table with them. 
 SORREL SAUCE. 
 
 Pick the stalks and large fibres from a quart 
 of fresh green sorrel, wash it in several waters, 
 drain it, and put it into an enamelled sauce- 
 pan with a slice of fresh butter, and stew it 
 gently till tender. Stir, it well to keep it from 
 burning. Drain it, and rub it through a coarse 
 hair sieve, season with pepper and salt, and 
 add half a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, the 
 juice of half a lemon, if the sauce is for roast 
 veal ; or a spoonful or two of thick brown sauce, 
 if it is for other roast meat; or a little cream, 
 if wanted white for fojrls. Serve when hot. 
 Time, a quarter of an hour. 
 
 SORREL SAUCE (another way). 
 
 Take a few handfuls of sorrel leaves, wash 
 them, and chop them small, adding a few 
 chives or half a small onion. Put them with a 
 piece of butter in a small casserole, cover it, 
 and leave the vegetables to steam. Add enough 
 broth or water thickened with a table-spoonful 
 of floUr. Boil the sauce till the sorrel softens. 
 Add a grate of nutmeg, and salt. 
 SORREL SOUP. 
 
 Take two or three handfuls of fresh green 
 sorrel; pick the leaves from the stems, wash 
 them in several waters, drain them, and put 
 them into a saucepan with a slice of fresh 
 butter. No liquor is required. Steam the 
 leaves gently till quite tender. Dredge a little 
 flour upon them, beat out all the lumps, and 
 add about a quart of either white stock or 
 water. Simmer for ten minutes. Whisk two 
 eggs lightly. Just before the soup is wanted 
 put a little of the soup to the eggs, add the 
 rest gradually, make hot again, but do not boil 
 after the eggs are added. This is an acid soup. 
 
 SORREL, STEWED (k la Fran^afsel. 
 
 Take a peck of sorrel, fresh and green; pick 
 off the stems, and wash the leaves in several 
 
 waters; put them into a stewpan with a pint 
 of boiling water in which a table-spoonful of 
 salt has been dissolved, and let them boil 
 quickly till tender. Some cooks put a shredded 
 lettuce and a little chervil into the saucepan 
 with them. Drain the water from it, and rub 
 the sorrel through a wire sieve. Put it into 
 a saucepan, and mix with it two ounces of 
 butter, a dessert-spoonful of flour, and a little 
 pepper. Stir it over the fire till it boils. Cool, 
 then add three table-spoonfuls of cream, or the 
 well-beaten yolks of two eggs, and serve with 
 hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters. Time to boil 
 the sorrel, a quarter of an hour. Sufficient for 
 six or seven persons. 
 
 SORREL, STEWED (for- fricandeaux, roasts, etc.). 
 
 Wash half a peck of picked sorrel leaves in 
 several waters, drain them on a sieve, and put 
 them into an unglazed earthen jar in a very 
 slow oven, and let them stew gently until 
 quite tender. Mix an ounce of butter or a 
 little salad-oil with them, add a little pepper, 
 salt, and cayenne, and beat the leaves till 
 smooth. Serve immediately. 
 
 SOUBISE SAUCE (for Roast Mutton, Boiled Veal, and 
 
 Cutlets). 
 Peel four large onions, and cut them into thin 
 slices; sprinkle a little pepper and salt upeai 
 them, together with a small quantity of grated 
 nutmeg; put them into a saucepan with a slice 
 of fresh butter, and steam gently till they are 
 soft. They must not be allowed to acquire 
 any colour. Dredge a table-spoonful of flour 
 upon them, put a freshly-boiled mealy potato 
 with them, and add half a pint of milk, or a 
 quarter of a pint of white stock, and a quarter 
 of a pint of cream. Stir the sauce over the fire 
 till it is quite smooth, rub it through a coarse 
 sieve, pressing the onion strongly, that none 
 may remain behind; and, before serving, heat 
 again without allowing it to boil. Time, about 
 an hour. Probable cost, 8d., if made with 
 milk. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 SOUBISE SAUCE (another way). 
 
 Take a dozen white onions.- After having 
 peeled and washed them, cut them into halves, 
 take off the tops and bottoms, mince them as 
 fine as possible, and blanch them to make them 
 taste sweeter and take off the green colour. 
 Then let them pulp on a small stove with a 
 little butter. When they are thoroughly done, 
 and no kind of moisture is left, mix with them 
 four spoonfuls of bechamel. Season them well, 
 rub the puree through a tamis, and keep the sauce 
 hot, but without boiling. Tou must also put a 
 sm.all lump of sugar with the sauce if necessary. 
 When you have the oven hot, put in the onions 
 hermetically closed in a small stewpan, and let 
 them simmer for one hour with a small bit "^ 
 ham. This method gives a better flavour. 
 
 SOUBISE SAUCE, BROWN. 
 
 Peel and wash twelve onions clean, then 
 mince them, and fry them in a stewpan with a 
 little butter till very brown. Moisten with 
 some Spanish sauce, if you have any; if not, 
 sprinkle with two spoonfuls of flour mixed with 
 some veal or beef gravy. Skim off the fat, season 
 the puree well witTi salt and pepper, then strain 
 it through an old tamis, for these sort of 
 
sou 
 
 845 
 
 SOU 
 
 purees woula destroy new oneSj and will always 
 leave the taste of onions. 
 
 SOUBISE SAUCE, MUTTON CUTLETS WITH. 
 
 Take a neck of mutton, and cut offl the chops 
 one by one without flattening them; cut off 
 some of the flat bone at the extremity of the 
 chops. Put them into a stewpan with all the 
 parings of the onions used to make the soubise. 
 Season the whole well with carrots, a bunch of 
 parsley, green "onions, salt, and a very small 
 quantity of spice, etc.; throw in four or five 
 spoonfuls of good broth to braise them. When 
 done, drain the cutlets, and let them cool. Strain 
 the liquor through a silk sieve. Then reduce 
 it to a glaze. Next pare the chops nicely, and 
 put them with the glaze. This being com- 
 pleted, dish them miroton way, and pour the 
 soubise or onion sauce into the middle. 
 
 SOUBISE SAUCE, MUTTON CUTLETS WITH 
 
 (another and a better way). 
 Cut the mutton chops a little thicker than 
 when you wish to broil them. Pare them 
 nicely, and put them into a stewpan where they 
 may all lie flat. Put the trimmings, an onion or 
 two, a few carrots, a little salt, a bundle of pars- 
 ley and green onions seasoned, four or five spoon- 
 fuls of good consomme, and sweat the whole 
 till it is entirely done. Then take out the 
 roots, put in a little glaze, and reduce over a 
 large fire. When entirely boiled down to glaze, 
 take the Clitlets off the fire for a few minutes, let 
 
 . them settle in the glaze, take out the trimmings 
 and green vegetables, turn over the cutlets in 
 the glaze, and skim off the grease or fat, lay 
 
 'thein on a cover to drain the fat, and serve up 
 before they can get dry. This method is pre- 
 ferable to the other. These cutlets may be 
 served up with all sorts of puree of vegetables. 
 
 bouffl£. 
 
 A properly-made souffle is light in appear- 
 ance, delicate in flavour, as well as nourishing 
 and easily digested. It is a little difficult to 
 make; nevertheless, if the inexperienced cook 
 will follow closely the instructions here given, 
 and be careful to allow the best ingredients only 
 to enter into its composition, she will soon ac- 
 quire sufficient dexterity in making it to remove 
 all fear of failure. All kinds of farinaceous sub- 
 stances may enter into the composition of 
 souffles, but the process of their manufacture is 
 always the same. They are in perfection only 
 when served light and high, just as they come 
 out of the oven, before they have had time to 
 sink below the original level. In order to en- 
 sure this, the careful cook will hold a sala- 
 mander or red-hot shovel over the souffle till it 
 reaches the dining-room door. More important, 
 however, than this is, that she should have 
 everything that she will require in readiness, as 
 delay at the critical moment may spoil every- 
 thing. A souffle should be cooked in a souffle- 
 tin, which fits into a silver-plated ornamental 
 dish, in which it can be sent to table. When 
 this is not at hand, a plain round or oval cake- 
 tin, or thin basin, or^a deep pie-dish ma^ be 
 ■used, with a high band of buttered writing- 
 paper fastened inside the rim, to prevent the 
 batter falling over the sides of the dish. A 
 properly-folding case of frilled writing-paper 
 should be prepared, into which it may be 
 
 quickly dropped when taken from the oven. 
 As the ingredients, with their proportions, are 
 given under each recipe, it will only be neces- 
 sary here to describe the general process of 
 manufacture. Always remember that the number 
 of whites of eggs should exceed the number of 
 yolks of eggs. Do not add the whites of the 
 eggs until the last moment, and be careful that 
 they are whisked separately to a very stiff froth, 
 and then are stirred lightly into the souffle. 
 The success of the dish depends in a great 
 measure upon this part of the business being 
 done thoroughly. Butter the tin, already lined 
 with oiled writing-paper, and put it in the 
 oven till very hot. Pour in the batter quickly, 
 and place it in a moderate oven. The dish 
 ought not to be more than half full. Move it 
 about occasionally, that the souffle may be 
 equally baked. When risen to a good height, 
 brightly coloured, and quite set in the centre, 
 it is done enough, and should be served im- 
 mediately. Souffles may be very gently steamed 
 instead of being baked. They are generally 
 handed round after the removes of the second 
 course. As they are very good also for ordinary 
 dinners, the inexperienced cook will find it well 
 worth her while to perfect herself by practice in 
 the art of making them. (See. Pbinciples or 
 CooKBBT, page viii.) 
 
 S0UFFL£ (au Riz). 
 
 Boil two ounces of rice flour in a pint of 
 milk until quite thick, stirring it all the time 
 till cold. Mix with it four yolks of eggs, 
 beaten, the grated peel of a lemon, and half a 
 pound of castor sugar. Whisk twelve whites 
 of eggs to a very stiff froth, and stir them 
 quickly and lightly in. Bake in a case or 
 mould, and sift powdered sugar over the top 
 before serving. Flavour with vanilla, or any 
 other flavouring that may be desired. 
 
 SOUFFLE, BREAD. 
 
 Take some milk, and boil it with a little 
 cream, giving the preparation any taste you 
 please. Scoop out carefully the soft part of 
 two or three rolls, rub the bread through a 
 sieve, soak in the flavoured milk, and proceed 
 as for potato souffle (see Souffle, Potato, at; 
 CiTEON, and Sottffle, Orange-plowee). 
 
 SOUFFLE, CARROT. 
 
 Make a thick puree of carrots, but instead of 
 broth use water, in which put a little sugar, 
 half a table-spoonful of flour, a little salt, and a 
 good bit of butter; let all this boil till very 
 thick, then add the yolks of four eggs, and mix 
 all well together. The moment you are read:^ 
 to send up, beat the whites of the eggs, which 
 throw in with the rest, and put into the oven 
 for a proper time in the vessel which you wish 
 to use. This souffle is not in great favour, but 
 it is good. 
 souffle; COFFEE. 
 
 Melt two ounces of flour in a stewpan, then 
 add gradually and mix in smoothly six ounces 
 of flour, a pinch of salt, half a pint of strong 
 coffee, and half a pint of cream. When the 
 mixture leaves the sides of the pan, cool, and 
 a,dd off the fire the yolks of six eggs and ten 
 ounces of sugar. Whisk the whites of nine 
 eggs til! firm, stir them lightly but thoroughly 
 
sou 
 
 846 
 
 SOU 
 
 into the preparation, and finish as directed in 
 Souppl:^. 
 
 SOUFFLt, CREAM. 
 
 Take three yolka of eggs, three table-spoon- 
 fuls of flour, and one table-spoonful of maras- 
 chino ; mix them together, and add a pint of 
 cream. Beat up f pur whites of eggs to a strong 
 froth, and stir them in. Bake in a case or 
 mould, and sift pounded sugar over. 
 SOUFFLE DISH. 
 
 Illustrations representing an ornamental and 
 a plain souffle dish are given in connection with 
 the article Apbicot Soufplb (which see). 
 
 SOUFFLE, OMELET. 
 
 Break two eggs, put the whites into one pan 
 and the yolks into another; rasp a little lemon- 
 peel or orange-flowers, beat the yolks well, add 
 a little sugar and salt, and next beat the whites 
 well to snow, and mix them with the yolks 
 lightly. Then put a lump of butter into an 
 omelet-pan on the fire ; when the butter is 
 melted, pour the omelet into the pan; hold it 
 over a slow fire for two minutes, or until the 
 underside is set, then put the pan into a very 
 hot oven for about three minutes. When firm 
 in the centre and lightly coloured the omelet 
 is sufficiently cooked. ' If left in the oven too 
 long it will be tough and leathery. Tou may 
 give it whatever flavour you think proper, but 
 the plainer the better when served very hot 
 and very high ; you may add to it some apricot 
 jam. Loosen the edges of the omelet with a 
 knife, turn it upside down on a hot dish, put a 
 little jam, made hot, on it, fold it quickly half 
 over, sift white sugar thickly on it, and serve 
 immediately. 
 soufflC crange-flower. 
 
 Dilute a little flour with half cream and half 
 milk; set this on the fire to boil; when the 
 flour is done, add a little salt, a little sugar, 
 and a small quantity of pounded orange- 
 flowers; mix well, and then add a good bit of 
 butter, the yolks of four eggs, and mix the 
 whole well. Next beat six whites and mix 
 them with the rest; then bake the souffle in 
 the usual way, and when it is baked enough, 
 glaze it, and send it up. 
 
 souffle, potato. 
 
 This dish has the double advantage of being 
 excellent and economical. Take as many large 
 potatoes as you expect guests for dinner. As 
 the potatoes are to look well when cut, wash 
 them well, and select the best shaped ; put them 
 into the oven, and when done, cut them in half, 
 so that the halves will stand, scoop out the 
 insides with a spoon, and put it in a stewpan 
 with two or three spoonfuls of double cream, a 
 small bit of butter, a little salt, some sugar, 
 a little lemon-peel rasped on sugar, three yolks 
 of eggs, adding off the fire four frothed whites. 
 Put this mixture into the hollow potatoes, 
 placing them in rather a hot oven. The 
 taste may sometimes be varied with lemon, 
 orange-flower water, etc. This is a pretty dish. 
 Apple souffle may be prepared in the same way, 
 excepting that the apples must not be baked 
 previously to being filled with the ingredients, 
 but merely cored and the interior scooped out, 
 as above directed. 
 
 SOUFFLE, POTATO (au Citron). 
 
 Bake a dozen potatoes in the oven; when they 
 are well done, open them, scoop out the most 
 floury part, and mix it with naif a pint of 
 cream that has boiled and in which you have 
 infused the peel of a lemon; to this add a 
 little sugar, a large piece of butter, and a little 
 salt — ^the taste of the sugar, however, must pre- 
 dominate; yet observe that the less sugar you 
 use the lighter the souffle will be. Now break 
 six eggs, throw the yolks of four only into the 
 potatoes, beat the six whites, which pour gently 
 with the above preparation into a souffle-dish, 
 add to it an ounce of fresh butter, and put it 
 into the oven, which must not be too hot. 
 When the souffle is done enough, powder a 
 little sugar over it, and use the salamander. 
 Souffles must be served up the moment they 
 are ready, for they are liable to sink. 
 
 SOUFFLE, POULETS (a la Cr^me). 
 
 This dish is to be made of the remnants of 
 roasted chickens ; take off the white flesh, mince 
 it very small, and pound it in a mortar with a 
 little bechamel, a good lump of fresh butter, 
 and salt and pepper ; with this mix the yolks of 
 four eggs. Strain the whole through a tamis, 
 or a hair sieve; then beat the whites of five 
 eggs till made into a single body; mix these 
 with the former preparation, and put the whole 
 in the dish to rise, or in a croustade that has 
 been raised like the crust of a pate chaud (hot 
 pasty). It will be done in a quarter of an hour 
 or twenty minutes, according to the quantity. 
 It is to be observed, that if the oven is too hot, 
 the outside of the souffle will be burnt, although 
 the inside is not done enough. This, therefore, 
 must be carefully attended to. 
 
 SOUFFLi, ramequins. 
 
 Melt an ounce of butter ; mix it into a table- 
 spoonful of fiour and a little salt ; stir for a few 
 minutes over the fire. Have ready boiled half 
 a pint of milk and a quarter of a pint of cream. 
 Pour this on the butter and flour by degrees, 
 and work it perfectly smooth. Take the pan 
 off the fire and add half a pound of grated Par- 
 mesan cheese, a little pepper, a pinch of sugar, 
 the yolks of eight eggs and the whites of two, 
 well beaten. When well mixed add the remain- 
 ing six whites, beaten to a stiff froth. The 
 souffle should then be about the consistency of 
 cream. Fill paper cases, not quite to the top, 
 and bake in a slow oven for eighteen minutes. 
 
 SOUFFLE, SIMPLE. 
 
 Sweeten and flavour a quarter of a pint of 
 milk with lemon or vanilla, boil it, and stir into 
 it quickly, when boiling, a table-spoonful of 
 flour which has been smoothly mixed with 
 another quarter of a pint of milk. Add a slice 
 of fresh butter, draw the saucepan to the side 
 of the fire, and stir the batter carefully till it 
 thickens, then pour it into a basin. When 
 nearly cold, add a dessert-spoonful of brandy 
 and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Butter 
 a cake-tin or deep pie-dish which the batter will 
 only half fill, and put it in the oven till hot. 
 Beat the whites of three eggs to a firm froth, 
 and stir them briskly into the batter._ Spread 
 a layer of jam at the bottom of the dish, pour 
 in the batter, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 
sou 
 
 847 
 
 SOU 
 
 "VVlien the souffle has risen high, and is nicely 
 'browned and firm throughout, it is done 
 enough. Serve with the utmost expedition, or 
 it will be spoiled. Time to bake the souffle, 
 about twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, lOd. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 SOUP. 
 
 There is no part of cookery which is so im- 
 perfectly understood by ordinary cooks as the 
 preparation of soup. Amongst the wealthy it 
 is considered a necessity, and, as a matter of 
 course, forms part of the dinner. Amongst the 
 middle classes it is more usually served than it 
 ■used to be, and is, year by year. Increasingly 
 appreciated ; but amongst the lower classes it is 
 all but scorned ; and mistresses of small house- 
 holds will testify that the maid-of -all-work, who 
 when at home is half starved instead of being 
 properly fed, will consider herself most hardly 
 used if part of the provision of the day's dinner 
 consists of wholesome soup. This opinion is, of 
 course, a sign of ignorance. Soup is both 
 nourishing and wholesome, and it may also be 
 prepared economically. With attention and a 
 little trouble, it may be made from very inex- 
 pensive materials, and, considering that when 
 soup has been served smaller inroads are made 
 into the joint, the frugal housekeeper who has 
 once calculated the difEerence in cost of a 
 dinner consisting of ecoriomieally-made soup, 
 meat, and vegetables, and one of meat and 
 vegetables only, will never object to the intro- 
 duction of Boup at her table on account of the 
 expense. Soup may be made of a large variety 
 of different articles, including meat of all kinds, 
 bones, game, poultry, fish, shell-fish, all kinds 
 of vegetables, herbs, and farinaceous articles, 
 milk, eggs, etc., etc. The basis of all soup is 
 stock. Instructions for making this will be 
 found in their proper place, and will, therefore, 
 not be considered here. The reader will also 
 find most valuable hints for making stock and 
 soups in the article on the Peinciples of 
 CooKBBT. Directions for making various soups 
 will be found under their respective headings, 
 nevertheless it may be found useful if a few 
 rules of universal application are here given as 
 an assistance in their manufacture. There are 
 three kinds of soups — clear soup, thick soup, 
 and purees. A pur^e is made by rubbing the 
 ingredients of which it is composed through a 
 tamis or sieve. A thick soup is stock thickened 
 by the addition of various thickening ingredi- 
 ents. These soups are best suited to the winter 
 .season. Clear soup is thin and bright, and 
 adapted for use in the summer months. In 
 making soup it is most important that every 
 culinary article used should be perfectly clean. 
 The inside of the covers of saucepans, the rims, 
 and the handles, particularly require attention. 
 The lid of the saucepan should never be re- 
 moved over a smoky fire. The meat used 
 should be freshly-killed, and should be as lean 
 as it can be procured; it should never be 
 washed. The bones should be broken up into 
 small pieces. Cold water should be put upon 
 fresh meat and bones; boiling water (a small 
 quantity at a tiine) upon meat or vegetables 
 that have been fried or browned. As it is ver^ 
 important that no fatty particles should be left 
 to float on the surface of the soup, this should 
 
 be made, if possible, the day before it is wanted, 
 so that the fat can be removed after it has got 
 cold. If the soup has been thickened with 
 white or brown roux it should be simmered by 
 the side of the fire until it has .thrown up the 
 fat which the liquor still contains. Soup should 
 be simmered very softly till it is done enough. 
 A large fire and quick boiling are the great 
 enemies of good soup. In flavouring soup the 
 cook should be careful to add the seasoning 
 ingredients in moderation and gradually, es- 
 pecially such things as garlic, onions, shallots, 
 spices, herbs, salt, and cayenne. An overdose 
 of salt has spoilt many a dish of soup, while a 
 deficiency thereof has again and again nullified 
 the effect of the most delicate combination 
 of flavours. As a general rule, two ounces of 
 salt will suffice for a gallon of soup stewed with 
 large quantities of vegetables; an ounce and a 
 half only will be needed if the vegetables are 
 omitted, or if a small quantity only is used. 
 It should be remembered that salt and all 
 seasonings can be added when they cannot be 
 taken out. For flavouring purposes. Aromatic 
 Seasoning of Herbs and Spices, and Herb-powder 
 for Flavouring Soups, will be found of great 
 use. Whatever ingredients are added to soup, 
 whether farinaceous articles, such as rice, ver- 
 micelli, macaroni, etc., or vegetables, all should 
 be partially boiled in plain water before they 
 are put into the liquor. This will ensure their 
 being perfectly clean and bright. The flavour 
 of rich brown soups will be brought out better 
 if a small piece of sugar be added to them. This 
 must not be used for white soups. Cream or 
 milk when put with soups should be boiled 
 separately, strained, and added boiling. If, 
 instead of cream, milk and the yolk of an egg 
 are used, the egg must on no account be boiled 
 in the liquor. Either it must be mixed 
 thoroughly with a little of the soup which has 
 cooled for a minute, then be stirred into the 
 rest; or, better still, it must be put into the 
 soup-tureen, a spoonful of the soup mixed with 
 the milk stirred into it, and the rest added 
 gradually. If soups are to be kept for a day or 
 two, they should be boiled up every day, or 
 every other day, according to the state of the 
 weather, put into freshly-scalded dry earthen- 
 ware pans, and kept in a cool place. A piece of 
 gauze may be thrown over the pan to keep out 
 dust and flies. Soup should never be kept in 
 metal vessels, and it should be stirred and well 
 skimmed with a wooden spoon. 
 
 SOUP, CHESHIRE. 
 
 The following is a very old Cheshire recipe 
 for a good and inexpensive soup. It dates back 
 as far as the sixteenth century. Put a hock of 
 beef into a gallon of cold water, simmer it 
 gently for six hours, taking care that it is well 
 skimmed. Put in some thyme, sweet marjoram, 
 and celery, all tied in a bunch, as also a couple 
 of onions cut fine. Skim off all the fat, and 
 season vidth pepper and salt and a little ketchup. 
 By omitting the above seasoning, this soup may 
 be turned into all kinds of soups, by adding the 
 vegetables to give the flavour required. 
 
 SOUP FOR CHILDREN, LIEBIG'S. 
 
 This preparation, which is hardly entitled to 
 the name of soup, as the word is generally 
 
sou 
 
 848 
 
 SOU 
 
 understood in this' country, is made in the 
 following manner. Take one ounce (one large 
 table-spoonful) of Beconds flour, and mix it 
 smoothly and carefully with ten ounces of cold 
 ekimmed milk until the whole is smooth; add 
 seven and a half grains of bicarbonate of potash 
 dissolved in a tea-spoonful of water (if sixty 
 grains of the potash be dissolved in one ounce 
 of water, one tea-spoonful must be used at a 
 time), and then heat it gently till it reaches the 
 boiling point, and keep it boiling for five 
 minutes. Stir the preparation well whilst it is 
 being heated;, add to the whole one ounce (one 
 large dessert-spoonful) of malt flour (malt 
 ground in a cofi'ee-mill, and sieved) mixed with 
 TWO ounces of water, and stir it well. Cover 
 the pan, and let it stand for half an hour in 
 water which is nearly boiling, so as to keep the 
 suup warm; then strain through a fine sieve, 
 and bottle it. This quantity is enough for a 
 day's supply for a child under two years. of age. 
 A quart of milk should be added to the soup. 
 
 SOUPS AND BROTHS, DR. KITCHENER ON. 
 
 The cook must pay particular attention to her 
 stewpans, soup-kettles, etc., which should be 
 examined every time they are used. The pru- 
 dent housewife will carefully examine the con- 
 dition of them herself at least once a mouth. 
 Their covers also must be kept perfectly clean 
 and well tinned, and the stewpans not only on 
 the inside but about a couple of inches on the 
 outside; many mischiefs arise from their get- 
 ting out of repair, and if not kept nicely 
 tinned all your good work will be in vain, the 
 broths and soups will look green and dirty, 
 taste bitter and poisonous, and will be spoiled 
 both for the eye and palate, and your credit will 
 be lost. The health and even life of the family 
 depends upon this, and the cook may be sure 
 her employers had rather pay the tinman's bill 
 than the doctor's; therefore attention to this 
 cannot fail to engage the regard of the mistress. 
 If a servant has the misfortune to scorch or 
 blister the tinning of her pan — which will some- 
 times happen to the most careful cook — ^I advise 
 her by all means immediately to acquaint her 
 employers, who will thank her cordially for men- 
 tioning an accident^ and censure her deservedly 
 if she conceal it. 
 
 Take care to be properly provided with sieves 
 and tamis cloths, spoons and ladles; make it a 
 rule without an exception never to use them till 
 they are well cleaned and thoroughly dried, nor 
 any stewpans, etc., without first washing them 
 out with boiling water, and rubbing them well 
 with a dry cloth and a little bran, to clean 
 them from grease, sand, etc., or any bad smell 
 they may have got since they were last used: 
 never neglect this. 
 
 Though we do not suppose our cook to be 
 such a naughty 'slut as to wilfully neglect her 
 broth-pots, etc., yet we may recommend her to 
 wash them immediately, and take care they are 
 thoroughly dried at the fire before they are put 
 by, and to keep them in a dry place, for damp 
 will rust and destroy them very soon — attend 
 to this the first moment you can spare after the 
 dinner is. sent up. 
 
 Never put by any soup, gravy, etc., in metal 
 utensils; in which never keep anything longer 
 than is absolutely necessary for the purposes of 
 
 cookery — the acid, vegetables, fat, etc., em- 
 ployed in making soups, etc., are capable of 
 dissolving such utensils, therefore stone or 
 earthen vessels should be used for this purpose. 
 
 Stewpans, soup-pots, and preserving-pans, 
 with thick and round bottoms (such as sauce- 
 pans are made with) will wear twice as long, 
 and are cleaned with half the trouble, as those 
 whose sides are soldered to the bottom, of which 
 sand and grease get into the joined part, and 
 cooks say that it is next to an impossibility to 
 dislodge it, even if their nails are as long as 
 Nebuchadnezzar's. 
 
 Take care that the lids fit as close as possible, 
 that the broth, soup, and sauces, etc., may 
 not waste by evaporation. They are good for 
 nothing unless they fit tight enough to keep 
 the steam in and smoke out. 
 
 Stewpans and saucepans should be always 
 bright on the upper rim, where the fire does 
 not burn them; but to scour them all over is 
 not only giving the cook needless trouble, but 
 wearing out the vessels. 
 
 Cultivate habits of regularity, cleanliness, 
 etc., in all your business, which you will then 
 get through easily and comfortably; I do not 
 mean the restless spirit of Molidusta, " the tidy 
 one,"' who is anon, anon, sir, frisking about in 
 a whirlpool of bustle and confusion, and is 
 always dirty — under pretence of being always 
 cleaning. 
 
 Lean juicy beefj mutton, or veal, form the 
 basis of broth; procure those pieces which 
 afford the richest succulence, and as fresh killed 
 as possible. 
 
 Stale meat will make broth grouty and bad 
 tasted, and fat meat is wasted. This only 
 applies to those broths which are required to be 
 perfectly clear. Fat and clarified drippings 
 may be so combined with vegetable mucilage 
 as to afford, at the small cost of one penny per 
 quart, a nourishing and palatable soup, fully 
 adequate to satisfy appetite and support 
 strength — this will open a new source to those 
 benevolent housekeepers who are disposed to 
 relieve the poor; will show the industrious 
 classes how much they have it in their power to 
 assist themselves, and rescue them from being 
 objects of charity, dependent on the precarious 
 bounty of others, by teaching them how they 
 may obtain a cheap, abundant, salubrious^ and 
 agreeable aliment for themselves and families. 
 
 This soup has the advantage of being very 
 easily and very soon made, with no more fuel 
 than is necessary to warm a room; those who 
 have not tasted it cannot imagine what a salu- . 
 brious, savoury, and satisfying meal is pro- 
 duced by the judicious combination of cheap 
 homely ingredients. 
 
 The art of composing a rich soup is so to 
 proportion the several ingredients one to 
 another that no particular taste be stronger 
 than the rest, but to produce such a fine har- 
 monious relish that tiie whole is delightful. 
 This requires that judicious combination of the 
 materials which constitute the chef d'muvre ot 
 culinary science. In the first place, take care 
 that the roots and herbs be perfectly well 
 cleaned; proportion the water to the quantity 
 of meat and other ingredients — generally a 
 pound of meat to a quart of water for soups. 
 
sou 
 
 849 
 
 SOU 
 
 and double that quantity for gravies. If they 
 stew gently, little more water need be put in 
 at first than is expected at the end — for when 
 the pot is covered quite close, and the fire 
 gentle, very little is wasted. Gentle stewing 
 13 incomparably the best — the meat is more 
 tender and the soup better flavoured. It is 
 of the first importance that the cover of a soup- 
 kettle should fit very close, or the broth will 
 evaporate before you are aware of it. The 
 most essential parts are soon evaporated by 
 quick boiling, without any benefit, except to 
 fatten the fortunate cook who inhales them. 
 An evident proof that these exhalations possess 
 the most restorative qualities is, that the cook, 
 who in general is the least eater, is as gener- 
 ally the fattest person in the family — from con- 
 tinually being surrounded by the quintessence 
 of all the food she dresses, whereof she sends 
 to her master only the fibres and calcinations, 
 who is consequently thin, gouty, and the victim 
 of disease^ arising from insufficient nourish- 
 ment. It is not only the fibres of the meat 
 which nourish us, but the juices they contain, 
 and these are not only extracted, but exhaled, 
 if it be boiled fast in an open vessel. A suc- 
 culent soup can never.be made but in a well- 
 closed vessel, which preserves the nutritive parts 
 by preventing their dissipation. This is a fact 
 of which every intelligent person will soon per- 
 ceive the importance. 
 
 Place your soup-pot over a moderate fire, 
 which will make the water hot without causing 
 it to boil, for at least half an hour. If the water 
 boils immediately, it will not penetrate the 
 meat and cleanse it from the clotted blood and 
 other matters which ought to go off in scum ; the 
 meat will be hardened all over by violent heat, 
 will shrink up as if it were scorched, and give 
 hardly any gravy. On the contrary, by keeping 
 the water a certain time heating without boil- 
 ing, the meat swells^ becomes tender, its fibres 
 are dilated, and it yields a quantity of scum, 
 which must be taken off as soon as it appears. 
 
 It is not till after a good half hour's hot 
 infusion that we may mend the fire and make 
 the pot boil ; still continue to remove the scum, 
 and when no more appears, put in the vege- 
 tables, etc. and a little salt. These will cause 
 more scum to rise, which must be taken off 
 immediately, then cover the pot very closely, 
 and place it at a proper distance from the fire, 
 where it will boil very gently, and equally, and 
 by no means fast. 
 
 By quick and strong boiling the volatile and 
 finest parts of the ingredients are evaporated, 
 and fly off with the steam, and the coarser 
 parts are rendered soluble ; so you lose the good 
 and get the bad. 
 
 Soups will generally take from three to six 
 hours. , 
 
 Prepare your broths and soups the evening 
 before you want them. This will give you more 
 time to attend to the rest of your dinner the 
 next day; and when the soup is cold the fat 
 may be much more easily and completely re- 
 moved from the surface of it ; when you decant 
 it, take care not to disturb the settlings at 
 the bottom of the vessel, which are so fine that 
 they will escape through a sieve, or even 
 through a tamis, which is the best strainer : 
 
 3c 
 
 the soups appear smoother and finer, and it is 
 much easier cleaned than any sieve. If you 
 strain it while it is hot, pass it through a clean 
 tamis or napkin previously soaked in cold 
 water — the coldness of this will coagulate the 
 fat, and only suffer the pure broth to pass 
 through. 
 
 The full flavour of the ingredients can only 
 be extracted by very long and slow simmering, 
 during which take care to prevent evaporation 
 by covering the pot as close as possible. The 
 best stew-pot is a "digester." 
 
 Clear soups must be perfectly transparent, 
 thickened soups about the consistency of rich 
 cream; and remember that thickened soups 
 require nearly double the quantity of seasoning. 
 The piquance of spice, etc., is as much blunted 
 by the flour and butter as the spirit of rum is 
 by the addition of sugar and acid; so they are 
 less salubrious, without being more savoury, 
 from the additional quantity of spice, etc. that 
 is smuggled into the stomach. 
 
 To thicken and give body to soups and 
 sauces the following materials are used — they 
 must be gradually mixed with the soup till 
 thoroughly incorporated with it, and it should 
 have at least half an hour's gentle simmering 
 after; if it is at all lumpy, pass it through a 
 tamis or a fine sieve — bread-raspings, bread, 
 isinglass, potato-mucilage, fat-skimmings and 
 flour, or flour and butter, or flour, barley, rice, 
 or oatmeal and water rubbed well together. 
 To their very rich gravies, etc., the French add 
 the white meat of partridges, pigeons, or fowls, 
 pounded to a pulp and rubbed through a sieve ; 
 a piece of beef which has been boiled to make 
 broth pounded in like manner with a bit of 
 butter and flour, and gradually incorporated 
 with the gravy or soup, will be found a satis- 
 factory substitute for these more expensive 
 articles. 
 
 Meat from which broth has been made, and 
 all its juice has 'been extracted, is then excel- 
 lently well prepared for potting, and is quite as 
 good or better than that which has been baked 
 till it is dry; indeed, if it be pounded and 
 seasoned in the usual manner it will be an 
 elegant and savoury luncheon or supper, and 
 costs nothing but the trouble of preparing it, 
 which is very little, and a relish is procured for 
 sandwiches, etc., of what has heretofore been 
 by the poorest housekeeper considered the per- 
 quisite of the cat. 
 
 Keep some spare broth, lest your soup-liquor 
 waste in boiling and get too thick, and for 
 gravy for your made dishes, various sauces, etc., 
 for many of which it is a much better basis 
 than melted butter. The soup of mock-turtle 
 and the other thickened soups will supply you 
 with a thick gravy sauce for poultry, ifish, 
 ragouts, etc., and by a little management of ' 
 this sort you may generally contrive to have 
 plenty of good gravies and good sauces with 
 very little trouble or expense. 
 
 If soup is too thin or too weak, take off the 
 cover of your soup-pot and let the soup boil till 
 some of the watery part of it has evaporated, or 
 else add some of the thickening materials we have 
 before mentioned ; and have at hand some plain 
 browning. This simple preparation is much 
 better than the compounds bearing that name. 
 
sou 
 
 850 
 
 SOY 
 
 as it colours sauce or soup without much inter- 
 fering with its flavour, and ia a much better 
 way of colouring them than burning the surface 
 of the meat. 
 
 When soups and gravies are kept from day to 
 day in hot weather they should be warmed up 
 every day, and put into fresh-scalded tureens 
 or pans, and placed in a cool cellar ; in tem- 
 perate weather every other day may be enough. 
 
 We hope we have now put the common cook 
 into possession of the whole arcana of soup- 
 making, without much trouble to herself, or 
 expense to her employers; it need not be said 
 in future that an Englishman only knows how 
 to make soup in his stomach, by swilling down 
 a large quantity of ale or porter to quench the 
 thirst occasioned by the meat he eats. John 
 Bull may now make his soup secundum artem, 
 and save his principal viscera a great deal of 
 trouble. 
 SOUP^, HERB-PCWDER FOR FLAVOURING. 
 
 As it is not always possible to obtain fresh 
 herbs, the cook will find it a convenience to 
 have the following herbs powdered, stored, and 
 ready to use in flavouring. For this purpose 
 the recipe for the Abomatic Seasoning or Hebbs 
 AND Spices will also be found useful; but those 
 who object to the flavour of spices, and prefer 
 that of herbs only, will find that the following 
 recipe will suit them best. The herbs should 
 be procured fresh, dried in a warm but not too 
 hot oven, pounded in a mortar, and passed 
 through a wire sieve. The powder should then 
 be put into small bottles, stopjjered closely, 
 and kept in a dry place. It will retain its 
 flavour for several months. The proportions 
 are as follows: — Two ounces of sweet marjoram, 
 two ounces of winter savory, two ounces of dried 
 parsley, two ounces of lemon-thyme, a quarter 
 of an ounce of bay-leaves, a quarter of an ounce 
 of celery-seeds, an ounce of sweet basil, and an 
 ounce of lemon-peel. 
 
 SOUP TABLETS. 
 
 The following recipe shows how to make the 
 soup tablets which were so much used by the 
 German army during the Franco-German war. 
 Take eleven parts by weight of good suet, melt 
 it in an iron pan, and make it very hot, so as 
 to become brown; add, while keeping the fat 
 stirred, eighteen parts of rye-meal, and contiiiue 
 heating and stirring, so as to make the mass 
 brown ; add then four parts of dried salt and 
 two parts of coarsely pulverised caraway-seeds. 
 The mixture is then poured into tin pans some- 
 what like those used for making chocolate into 
 cakes. The cakes have the appearance of choco- 
 late, and are chiefly intended for the use of 
 soldiers when in the field. A quantity of about 
 an ounce of this preparation is suflicient to 
 yield, when boiled with some water, a ration of 
 good soup, and in case of need, the cakes being 
 agreeable to the taste, they may even be eaten 
 raw. 
 SOUP, WITHOUT STOCK. 
 
 Cut a good-sized cabbage, put it in a stew- 
 pan with some carrots, onion?, celery, and the 
 broken bone of a leg of mutton or rib of beef 
 from which all the meat has been taken. Add 
 a quart of water, and let all simmer together 
 for five hours. Then strain the soup, and take 
 
 off any fat which may still float on it. Pick 
 out the best pieces of cabbage, put them into 
 the soup, season with pepper and salt, make 
 quite hot, and serve. 
 
 SOUR SAUCE FOR FISH. 
 
 Heat a quarter of a pint of good vinegar, stir 
 into it half a tea-spoonful of made mustard, a 
 little pepper, and a slice of fresh butter. Serve 
 when the butter is dissolved. 
 
 SOUSE PUDDING. 
 
 Take two eggs, with their weight in flour and 
 sugar. Whisk the eggs with the sugar, and 
 when the puddings are about to be put into the 
 oven, add the flour. Beat the mixture till it 
 is light, frothy, and perfectly smooth, put it 
 into small buttered cups, and bake in a 
 moderate oven. When done enough, turn the 
 puddings out carefuHy, sift sugar over them, 
 and serve. A little flavouring will be an agree- 
 able addition. Time to bake, about twenty 
 minutes. 
 
 SOWENS. 
 
 Sowens ia one of the national dishes of Scot- 
 land, made from the husk of the oat (called 
 in Scotland seeds). These seeds contain a good 
 deal of farinaceous matter after they are 
 separated from the oatmeal, and this matter 
 is converted into a very nourishing and palat; 
 able article of food. In some of the northern 
 towns of Scotland thin sowens are drunk on 
 New Tear's Day morning, while " buttered 
 sowens wi' fragrant lunt" is in rural districts 
 the supper for Hallow Eve. This dish is known 
 in England, Wales, and Ireland as " flummery." 
 It is very good eaten cold, and will turn out in 
 a shape, making a kind of oatmeal jelly. To 
 prepare it, soak any quantity of oatmeal seeds 
 in a tub or large- jar, and pour upon them twice 
 their bulk in lukewarm water. Leave for three 
 or four days in a warm place till sour. 
 Pass the whole through a sieve, and squeeze the 
 seeds, moistening them with a little of the 
 liquor, to get all the goodness out of them. 
 Let the liquor thus obtained stand till the 
 starchy matter it contains sinks to the bottom ; 
 then pour it ofi, and add fresh cold water. 
 ^When the sowens are wanted, pour ofE the water, 
 and mix with the starchy sediment as much 
 water as will thin it; put a little salt into it, 
 and boil it, stirring briskly all the time till it 
 thickens. Pour it into a deep bowl, and serve 
 with wine, beer, or milk. Sowens thus made 
 will keep good for a week or more in winter. 
 If a little that has turned sour be mixed with 
 that which is to be freshly made, it will facili- 
 tate the preparation. Time, fifteen to twenty 
 minutes to thicken the sowens. 
 
 SOY. 
 
 This is a kind of sauce prepared in China and 
 Japan from a email bean, the produce of 
 Dolichos sojd. It is used with fish and other 
 articles of diet. In choosing soy, see that it is 
 of a good flavour, not too salt nor too sweet, 
 of a good thick consistency, a brown colour, and 
 clear. When shaken in a glass, it should leave 
 a coat on the surface of a bright yellowish-brown 
 colour; if it do not, it is an inferior sort, and 
 should be rejected. Chinese soy is considered 
 inferior to that of Japan. 
 
SOY 
 
 851 
 
 SPA 
 
 «OY, CHINESE PREPARATION OF. 
 
 Equal quantities of beans and wheat aie 
 toiled together, and then triturated between 
 atones, water being added occasionally. The 
 mass is cooked in a pan, and cut into thin 
 slices, which are kept covered with straw for 
 about twenty days. When completely fer- 
 mented, the separate slices having become 
 mouldy, they are washed with water, placed in 
 a vessel, and their weight of water and salt 
 added. In this condition they are kept for a 
 number of days, and are finally again triturated 
 "between stones. 
 
 SOY, CHINESE (another way). 
 
 Thirty-five pounds of the shelled pulse are 
 ■washed in cold water, and boiled in water 
 enough to cover them until they are sufiiciently 
 tender, which is ascertained by squeezing them 
 between the finger and thumb. This requires 
 only a few minutes to effect. They are then 
 drained in a sieve, but, whilst still wet, are 
 mixed with a portion of meal made of the same 
 pulse, ground, which an Anglo-Indian, if he 
 were here to see it, would immediately pro- 
 nounce to be " ground gram." In this meal they 
 are stirred until the surface of each bean is 
 covered. The mass is now laid upon mats to 
 the thickness of about two inches, and the beans 
 are left to dry until the surface of the mass be- 
 gins to appear mouldy. They are then dried 
 by gradual keat in slow stoves, until they can 
 bear the stroke of a mallet, when they are 
 rubbed with the hand or with a hard brush to 
 free them from the meal. Earthen pans, ready 
 prepared, now receive them in equal portions, 
 and a pickle is made with twenty pounds of 
 salt dissolved in five times its weight of water, 
 ■which is equally divided among the pans. These 
 are now carefully covered, and kept, during six 
 weeks or more, in a place where the tempera- 
 ture is nearly 100° Fahrenheit. When at length 
 the soluble part of the beans — ^the part that 
 constitutes the soy — is extracted, this being as- 
 certained by the dark brown colour of the liquid 
 in the pans, the liquid is poured off, and boiled 
 down to the proper consistency. This, however, 
 is not effected until after repeated boilings, 
 during which a quantity of moist sugar, ginger, 
 mace, and black pepper are added in quantities 
 according to the taste of the manufacturers, 
 each having his own peculiar ideas of flavour- 
 ing, which constitutes the difference between 
 the several brands. After the last boiling, the 
 soy is allowed to stand a few days, then . 
 strained, and put into flasks for sale. 
 
 SOY, JAPANESE. 
 
 The beans are first washed, then boiled ■with 
 water enough to cover thom until they are 
 tender. They are then mashed in a mortar and 
 mixed with their weight of coarse barley-meal. 
 This mixture, being closely covered, is then 
 placed in a warm situation, and left to ferment. 
 When the mass is sufficiently fermented, a 
 weight of salt, equal to that of the beans origi- 
 nally, is dissolved in five times its weight of 
 ■water, and added to the fermented mass, and 
 is strongly stirred in it. The whole being well 
 covered, it remains in this state during three 
 months, being daily agitated and beaten for 
 t^wo hours, after which it is again covered. It 
 
 is then strained through cotton cloth, which is 
 well pressed until every drop of liquid has 
 passed through. The soy is now put into . 
 wooden tubs, when age fines it. After a time, 
 when it is sufficiently clear, it is racked off, and 
 put into smaller wooden vessels for sale. 
 Meanwhile, more water is poured upon the mass 
 that remains after the straining, and soy of an 
 inferior kind is made. Though there is no 
 spice, nor other seasoning but salt, in the 
 Japanese soy, it is far preferable to that of 
 China, and is free from the sweet treacly flavour 
 which distinguishes the latter. 
 SPAGHETTI. 
 
 Spaghetti is a form of macaroni, but thread 
 or tape shaped instead of pipe shaped. There 
 are many ways of preparing it. A very simple 
 one is to boil it in slightly salted water or 
 plain stock, then to turn it into the dish for 
 serving, and mix with each quarter pound a 
 table-spoonful or more of grated Parmesan 
 cheese. This is tossed lightly but quickly until 
 the cheese melts, and has a cobwebby appear- 
 ance. A spoonful of tomato conserve should 
 then be stirred in, and the dish served at once. 
 Cost of spaghetti, 3d. to 4d. per pound. 
 SPAGHETTI, WITH EGGS. 
 
 Boil the spaghetti as in the preceding recipe, 
 and allow six hard-boiled eggs to half a pound. 
 Turn the spaghetti into a dish, and pour over 
 it half a pint of sauce, which may be plain 
 white, celery, caper, or tomato sauce. Slice 
 the eggs and put them over the sauce. This is 
 a substantial and nourishing dish, as weU, as 
 economical. Cost, about Is. 
 SPAGHETTI, WITH TOMATO ROLLS. 
 
 Boil half a pound of spaghetti in any white 
 stock from poultry or veal. When done lay it 
 in a stewpan, and pour over it half a gill of 
 cream and half a gill of the stock in which it 
 was boiled. Cover, and let it absorb this. 
 Meanwhile get ready about half a dozen tomatc 
 rolls (see Tomato Eolls, Italian). Take a 
 second pan, slice into it two ounces of any 
 rich English cheese, and the same weight of 
 grated Parmesan, and of butter; pour in a 
 gill of the stock from the spaghetti, and shake 
 the pan (do not stir) until all the ingredients 
 are well blended. Pour this over the spaghetti 
 in a dish as hot as possible, and serve at once. 
 The rolls are to be placed round the spaghetti. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 f SPANISH BUNS. ~~~ 
 
 Eub half a pound of fresh butter into a pound 
 of flour. Add a pinch of salt, a little grated nut- 
 meg and powdered cinnamon, and also six table- 
 spoonfuls of powdered sugar. Mix these in- 
 gredients thoroughly, and work them into a 
 paste ■with four well-beaten eggs. Drop the 
 mixture in knobs upon a floured tin, and bake 
 these until done enough. When half-baked, 
 brush the surface with milk. If liked, half a 
 pound of currants may be added to the buns, 
 and then an additional egg or a little milk" will 
 be required. Time to bake the bims, about 
 twenty minutes. 
 SPANISH BUNS (another way). 
 
 Rub half a pound of fresh butter into a pound 
 of flour. Add a pinch of salt, three-quarters of 
 
SPA 
 
 85,2 
 
 SPA 
 
 a pound of powdered sugar, a tea-spoonful of 
 powdered cinnamon, and the eighth of a nut- 
 meg, grated. Beajb four egga thoroughly, and 
 work them into the mixture with two table- 
 spoonfuls of rose-water and as much milk as 
 will form a thick batter. Enead into this a 
 quarter of a pint of yeast, cover the bowl, and 
 leave the dough on the hearth all night. The 
 next morning knead it again, and let it rise a 
 second time. Butter some shallow tins, fill 
 them three-parts full, and bake the buns in a 
 moderate oven. When done enough, let them 
 get cold, sift powdered sugar upon them, and 
 with a sharp knife cut them into squares of a 
 suitable size. 
 
 SPANISH CAKES. 
 
 Blanch four ounces of sweet almonds and six 
 or seven bitter ones, and pound them to paste 
 with orange-flower water. Mix with them six 
 ounces of powdered and sifted sugar, half a, 
 pound of dried flour, and a quarter of an ounce 
 of powdered cinnamon. ^ Break six eggs, free 
 them from specks, and whisk them thoroughly. 
 Put them into a chocolate mill, and add gradu- 
 ally the dry ingredients, together with two 
 table-spoonfuls of rose-water and two table- 
 spoonfuls of light wine. Mill the mixture be- 
 tween every addition, and for some time after 
 all additions have been made, and till the batter 
 is very light. Butter a pan, and bake the cake 
 in a slow oven. Probable cost, 2s. for a cake 
 this size. 
 
 SPANISH CAKES (another way). 
 
 Eub six ounces of butter into a pound of 
 flour. Add a pinch of salt, three table-spoon- 
 fuls of sugar, and half a tea-spoonful of pow- 
 dered cinnamon. Work the mixture into a 
 paste with two well-beaten eggs, roll it out the 
 third of an inch thick, stamp it into fancy 
 shapes, and bake these in a moderate oven. 
 Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. 
 SPANISH CHESTNUT SOUP, 
 
 Take fifty large Spanish chestnuts. Throw 
 them into a pan of warm water, and when this 
 is hot enough to burn the fingers take the nuts 
 out, peel and scrape them, and throw each one 
 as it is done into a pan of cold water. When 
 all are ready, wipe the chestnuts, cover them 
 with good stock, and let them simmer gently 
 till they break when touched with a spoon or 
 fork. Drain and crush them, mix with them a 
 quart of stock, and rub the soup through a fine 
 sieve. Add as much salt, cayenne, and mace 
 as will flavour it pleasantly. Boil it up again, 
 mix with it off the fire a quarter of a pint of 
 boiling cream, and serve immediately. If its 
 sweetness is not objected to, the whole or part 
 of the stock in which the chestnuts were boiled 
 may be added to the soup. If brown soup is 
 preferred instead of white, the chestnuts, after 
 being scalded, peeled, and scraped, may be 
 steamed with two ounces of butter, a sliced 
 onion, half an ounce of loaf sugar, and a little 
 pepper and salt. When tender, they should be 
 drained and crushed, mixed with a quart of good 
 brown gravy, and then boiled and rubbed 
 through a fine sieve reversed. The puree, when 
 made hot, will be ready for serving. Time to 
 boil the chestnuts, three-quarters of an hour. 
 Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 SPANISH CREAM. 
 
 Boil half an ounce of isinglass in a quarter of 
 a pint of milk till dissolved. When nearly cold, 
 strain the liquid through muslin, and mix with it 
 a custard made of a quarter of a pint of milk, 
 half a pint of double cream, the well-beaten 
 yolks of three eggs, any flavouring that may be 
 preferred, and an ounce of white sugar. Stir 
 it until nearly cold, pour it into a damp mould, 
 and put it in a cool place till set. When wanted 
 for use, dip the mould into hot water for half a 
 minute, shake it well to loosen the edges, place 
 the dish upon the mould, and turn the cream out 
 quickly. Care must be taken that the custard 
 does not curdle. Sufficient for a pint and a half 
 of cream. Probable cost, if made with cream, 23 
 
 SPANISH FRITTERS. 
 
 Cut the crumb of a French roll into lengfths 
 as thick as a finger; soak them in cream 
 flavoured with nutmeg, pounded cinnamon, and 
 sugar, and with an egg beaten up in it. When 
 well so-aked, fry them in butter to a good 
 brown colour, and serve very hot. 
 
 SPANISH HAM. 
 
 The following is a Spanish cook's recipe for 
 boiling a Spanish ham : — " Put the ham into 
 cold water to soak for sixteen or eighteen hours ; 
 scrape and trim it well, putting it into cold 
 water to simmer. Add to the water a tea-cupful 
 of vinegar and a large tea-cupful of brown 
 sugar; simmer five hours. A pint of sherry 
 wine put into the water instead of the vinegar 
 improves the flavour of the ham." 
 SPANISH HAM (another way). 
 
 Soak the ham in cold water for a couple of 
 days before cooking it. Take it up, scrape it 
 well, trim it neatly, put it into a stewpan with 
 as much cold water as will cover it, and let it 
 boil gently for an hour. Clean and cut into 
 small pieces a couple of carrots, two onions, 
 and two shallots, and fry them in a little butter 
 with a couple of bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme, a 
 bunch of parsley, and a head of celery. Stir 
 these ingredients over, the fire until they are 
 slightly coloured. Pour upon them as much 
 boiling stock, or, failing this, boiling water, as 
 will cover the ham, and add three or four cloves, 
 half a blade of mace, and a dozen peppercorns. 
 A glassful of light wine may be added, or not. 
 Simmer the ham in the liquor thus prepared till 
 it is done enough, and let it remain in it till 
 cold. Take it up, trim it in the usual way, and 
 either brush it over with liquid glaze or cover 
 it with bread-raspings. Spanish haiiis are of 
 three sorts — Bayonne, Montauches, and (Srenada. 
 Time to simmer the ham in the stock, about four 
 hours. Cost, uncertain. 
 
 SPANISH OULA. 
 
 The Spanish 011a, as communicated by Don 
 Felix Antonio de Alvarado, a, native of the city 
 of Seville, in Spain, is made as follows. " The 
 true olla which they make in Spain is com- 
 posed of several sorts of meat, as beef, mutton, 
 veal, and bacon ; then put in also the ears and 
 feet of a hog, a pullet, with some sausages; 
 moreover, they put in coleworts, turnips, and 
 Spanish peas, which they call garvanfos. It 
 must all be boiled together for four hours to be 
 a true olla." 
 
SPA 
 
 853 
 
 SPA 
 
 SPANISH OMELET. 
 
 Mince finely as much fat and lean liam as 
 ■will fill a small tea-cup, and add two finely- 
 minced button-onions. Beat six eggs, stir the 
 ham, etc., into them, and fry the omelet in the 
 usual way. A true Spanish omelet would be 
 made with garlic, instead of onion, but this 
 would be too strong for ordinary pals^tes. 
 
 SPANISH ONIONS. 
 
 (See Onions, Spanish.) 
 SPANISH ONION SALAD. 
 
 Cook the onions in any way preferred. When 
 cold divide them, simply pulling them apart in 
 their natural divisions; then season with oil 
 and vinegar, salt and pepper; or use any dress- 
 ing preferred. The addition of a fresh tomato 
 cut into strips, and a. sprinkling of finely- 
 chopped parsley, is a great improvement. 
 SPANISH ONIONS, TO PICKLE. 
 
 Choose moderate-sized and perfectly sound 
 Spanish onions. Skin them, and cut them into 
 thin slices, put them in layers into wide- 
 mouthed bottles, and sprinkle upon each layer 
 a little salt and cayenne. When the jar is 
 almost full, pons cold vinegar into it to cover 
 the onions, tie bladder over the mouth of the 
 bottles, and store the pickle in a, cool, dry 
 place. If liked, the jar may be filled with 
 alternate layers of sliced onion and sliced boiled 
 beetroot, and then three or four drops of cochi- 
 neal may be added to the vinegar, to improve 
 the look of the pickle. For another mode of 
 pickling Spanish onions, see Onions, Spanish, 
 Pickled. Time, the pickle may be used in 
 three or four weeks. Probable cost, onions. Id. 
 or lid. each. 
 
 SPANISH PUDDING. 
 
 Cut half a dozen penny spongecakes into thin 
 slices lengthwise. Butter a pie-dish rather 
 thickly, sift powdered sugar on the butter, and 
 line the inside of the dish evenly and neatly 
 with the slices. Press them with the hand to 
 keep them in position. Afterwards fill the dish 
 with alternate layers of sliced spongecake and 
 apricot jam, and pour into it as much sherry or 
 Marsala as the cakes will absorb. Beat four 
 eggs briskly, pour them over the pudding, 
 and bake it in a slow oven. When it is set, 
 take it out, let it cool, and turn it out care- 
 fully. Have ready the whites of the eggs 
 beaten to a firm froth, pile them on the pud- 
 ding, and sprinkle a little powdered sugar over 
 the froth. Put it in the oven to set the egg, 
 and serve the pudding with custard-sauce poured 
 round it. Time to bake the pudding, from 
 fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, ex- 
 clusive of the wine. Is. 6d. Sufficient for half 
 a dozen persons. 
 SPANISH PUFFS. 
 
 Put half a pint of water or milE into a sauce- 
 pan with a quarter of a pound of butter, a 
 pinch of salt, a little sugar, and as much grated 
 nutmeg or lemon-peel as will flavour the liquor 
 pleasantly. Stir it till it boils, mix in gradu- 
 ally and smoothly i^ur table-spoonfuls of flour, 
 and beat the mixture over the fire for about 
 three minutes. Take it off the fire, and stir in, 
 one at a time, the yolks of six eggs and the 
 •whites of four. Let the batter cool, form it into 
 
 small balls the size of a walnut, and fry these 
 in plenty of boiling fat till they burst. Whilst 
 they are being fried, move them carefully about, 
 that they may be equally cooked. Dram them, 
 dust powdered sugar upon them, dish them on a 
 napkin, and serve immediately. Send some 
 wine-sauce to table with them. If liked, puffs 
 so made can be flavoured with a tea-spoon- 
 ful of powdered ginger, and may be thus con- 
 verted into ginger puffs. 
 SPANISH RICE. 
 
 Boil half a pound of rice as for curry, then 
 toss it lightly over a slow fire with a spoonful 
 of salad-oil till it is a bright-yellow colour. 
 Unless great care is taken the rice will burn. 
 Free two large ripe tomatoes from the seeds and 
 juice, and afterwards stir them in with the rice, 
 add a seasoning of black pepper and grated 
 Parmesan, and serve the preparation piled on a 
 hot dish. Garnish with thin slices of ham, 
 German sausage, or dried and smoked fish. If 
 ripe tomatoes cannot be procured, a table- 
 spoonful of tomato sauce may be used instead. 
 
 SPANISH SALAD. 
 
 Put into the centre of a dish some cold 
 dressed French beans, and at the moment of 
 serving stir them up lightly with a little mayon- 
 naise sauce or salad cream of any kind. Gar- 
 nish the beans with three or four ripe tomatoes 
 cut in slices and arranged in a circle, one slice 
 overlapping another. If preferred, and more 
 convenient, cold dressed Windsor beans, haricot 
 beans, or green peas, or a mixture of all or any 
 of these, may be used instejfS of French beans. 
 SPANISH SAUCE (called also Espagnole Sauce). 
 
 . If a large quantity of sauce is required, butter 
 a copper stewpan that is capable of holding 
 three or four gallons of sauce, or, if preferred, 
 lay flattened pieces of beef suet at the bottom 
 of the stewpan. Place thick slices of onion 
 upon the suet, or thin slices of lean ham on the 
 butter, and on these put thick slices of beef or 
 veal, and any bones and trimmings of meat or 
 poultry that may be at hand. A little lean 
 ham, a knuckle-bone of ham, some bacoh-rind 
 scalded and scraped, or the carcase of a cold 
 roast rabbit or fowl, will very much improve 
 the flavour of the sauce. Pour in as much stock 
 made from bones, and water, as will barely 
 cover the meat. Cover the saucepan, set it on 
 a brisk fire, and let the stock boil quickly till 
 it turns to glaze or thin gum. As soon as this 
 point is reached, slacken the heat of the fire, 
 and let the sauce remain gently simmering until 
 it becomes thick and sticky, and, without being 
 at all burnt, has acquired a bright brown colour. 
 Fill up the stewpan with cold stock or water 
 (allowing a quart of water for a pound and a, 
 half meat and bones). Let it boil, skim care- 
 fully, and add two or three carrots, a bundle 
 of outer sticks of celery, a small piece of mace, 
 a handfu of paisley, a sprig of thyme, a bay- 
 leaf, an onion stuck with three or four cloves, 
 a dozen peppercorns, and a little salt. Simmer 
 all gently together for three hours. Keep 
 skimming the sauce as required, and strain it 
 off for use. Let it get cold, then remove every 
 particle of fat from it. When wanted, boil 
 the quantity needed, thicken with roux or brown 
 thickening, and let it boil till it is of the 
 
SPA 
 
 851 
 
 SPA 
 
 / consistency of cream, carefully removing' the fat 
 as it is thrown up. Pass the sauce through a 
 . fine sieve, and it will be ready for use. A glass- 
 ful of sherry or Madeira may be added. When 
 any quantity of brown sauce is wanted, it should 
 be made the day before it is to be used. In 
 cool weather it will keep for four or five days. 
 It should be looked at every day, and boiled 
 up if necessary. Time, four to five hours. Prob- 
 able cost, 2a. per pint. {See also Espaqnole 
 Satjce.) 
 spanish sauce, highly flavoured. 
 
 Dissolve a thick slice of fresh butter in a 
 saucepan, and throw into it a quarter of a 
 pound of lean ham cut into dice, four sliced 
 shallots, a dozen mushrooms cleaned and cut 
 small, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a 
 bay-leaf, a dozen peppercorns, half a blade of 
 mace, and three cloves. Stir these ingredients 
 over a gentle fire till a red tinge appears round 
 the inside of the saucepan. Add gradually a 
 pint of clear stock, and simmer the sauce gently 
 for three-quarters of an hour. Carefully remove 
 the scum as it rises. Strain the sauce, add 
 cayenne and salt if necessa^, and thicken with 
 a little brown thickening. Let it simmer again, 
 that it may throw up the fat, and carefully 
 remove this till no more appears. A few 
 minutes before the sauce is to be served stir into 
 it a wine-glassful of sherry or Madeira. Time, 
 altogether, about an hour and a quarter. Prob- 
 able cost, 2s. per pint. 
 SPANISH SAUCE, MADE FROM BONES. 
 
 Take the bone of a leg; of mutton or of a 
 piece of beef weighing six or seven potinds. 
 Break it into small pieces, and put these into 
 a, stewpan with a large onion stuck with three 
 cloves, a sliced carrot, half a dozen outer sticks 
 of celery (or, if this is not at hand, as much 
 bruised celery-seed as will lie on a threepenny- 
 piece), a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, 
 a couple of leeks (if they can be had), half a 
 dozen pepjiercoms, and a little salt. Pour over 
 these ingredients three quarts of cold water. 
 Let the liquor boil, sMm carefully, and simmer 
 gently for four hours, or until it is reduced to 
 two quarts. Strain it, and when it is cold take 
 away any fat there may be on the top. When 
 Spanish sauce is wanted, take as much of this 
 stock as will make the requisite quantity ; make 
 it hot, and dissolve a little Bovril in it-— a tea- 
 spoonful will be sufiicient for a pint. Thicken 
 with brown thickening, let it simmer by the 
 side of the fire till it has thrown up the grease, 
 strain through a sieve, and serve. When brown 
 thickening is not at hand, a substitute may be 
 made as follows. Knead together in a sauce- 
 pan equal proportions of butter and flour. Stir 
 this paste quickly over a slow fire for three 
 minutes till it is brightly coloured without being 
 at all burnt. Moisten it with the stock, let the 
 sauce simmer gently to throw up the grease, 
 and when it is smooth and thick it will be 
 ready for serving. Time, five hours. Prob- 
 able cost, 3d. per pint. 
 SPANISH SAUCE (M. Ude's wayX 
 
 Besides some slices of ham, put into a stewpan 
 some slices of veal. Moisten the same as for 
 cuUis {see Cullis, ob Eich Gbavy) ; simmer them 
 in the like manner; let all the glaze go to the 
 
 bottom, and when of a nice red colour moisten 
 with a few spoonfuls of stock-broth liquor to 
 detach the glaze; then add a pint and a 
 half of stock. Let the whole boil for half 
 an hour to remove all the fat. Strain it 
 through a clean tamis. Bemember always to 
 put some mushrooms, with a bunch of parsley 
 and green onions, into these sauces. It is 
 necessary to observe to the professors of cookery 
 that the flavour proceeds from the seasoning, 
 and if the necessary articles are neglected to 
 be put to a nicety into the sauces, the flavour 
 '^ivill be deficient. Mind that the sai'ce or broth 
 when kept too long on the fire loses the proper 
 taste, and acquires instead a strong and dis- 
 agreeable one. 
 
 SPANISH SAUCE, QUICKLY MADE. 
 
 Peel an onion, split it in halves, stick a clove 
 in each half, and put these into a saucepan 
 with a bunch of parsley, a tea-spoonful of gela- 
 tine, half a dozen celery-seeds, and a pinch of 
 dried tarragon, if it is at hand. Boil all gently 
 togefther with a pint of water till the gelatine 
 is dissolved, strain off the liquor, and stir into 
 it a dessert-spoonful of Bovril; add as much 
 salt as will be necessary to bring out the flavour. 
 Thicken the gravy with a small piece of brown 
 thickening. If this is not at hand, mix to- 
 gether small equal portions of flour and butter, 
 stir the paste quickly over a brisk fire till it is 
 brightly coloured, moisten with the stock, boil 
 till smooth, and serve. Time, half an hour. 
 Probable cost, 4d. 
 
 SPANISH SAUCE, TO MAKE A SMALL QUAN- 
 TITY OF. 
 
 Butter a stewpan, and lay in the bottom of 
 it a couple of slices of lean ham and a pound of 
 lean beef or veal, or half a pound of each cut 
 into small pieces. Pour upon the meat as much 
 stock or water as will barely cover its surface, 
 and boil it until it becomes thick, like gum. 
 Check the heat of the fire a little, and simmer 
 the preparation until it is brightly coloured, 
 taking care that it does not burn. Add gradu- 
 ally a pint of stock or water, and put into the 
 saucepan with the liquor a sliced carrot, a bunch 
 of parsley, a sprig of thyme, half a bay-leaf, 
 an onion" stuck with two cloves, two shallots, 
 a quarts of a blade of mace, and four or five 
 peppercorns. Simmer the sauce for about an 
 hour, or till it is strong and agreeably flavoured; 
 strain it, and let it stand till cold. When 
 wanted, remove the cake of fat from the top, 
 heat the sauce, thicken with a spoonful of brown 
 thickening, and simmer till it is of the con- 
 sistency of cream. Remove the fat as it is 
 thrown up, add a glassful of sherry or Madeira, 
 and serve. Time, altogether, an hour and a> 
 half. Probable cost, ?s. per pint. 
 SPANISH SAUCE, WITH GAME. 
 
 This is the same as Spanish Satjce (M. Ude's 
 way), except that in this are introduced the 
 loins and trimmings of either young or old 
 partridges, pheasants, rabbits, etc., that this 
 sauce may taste of game. Bemember that 
 such sauces, if kept too long on tKe 
 fire, lose their savour and the game flavour. 
 This method may be thus shortened. Prepare 
 a small consomme of game by skinniitg a 
 couple or more of partridges; fillet them, and 
 
9PA 
 
 855 
 
 SPI 
 
 take the back, legs, and bones, and put them 
 into a stewpan with a little broth to sweat 
 gently in the stove for one hour ; then reduce 
 the gravy to glaze ; then, by putting a small 
 bit of that glaze in either sauce, it will save 
 time and expense, and will answer much better 
 to give it the taste of game. 
 SPANISH SAUSAGES, OR CHORISSAS. 
 
 Take equal weights of fat and lean pork cut 
 from the prime parts of the animal; mince this 
 .finely, and season strongly with garlic and 
 cayenne. Pour over it as much dry sherry as 
 will cover it. and let it stand in a cool place for 
 three or four days till it has absorbed the liquor. 
 Put the meat into large skins, and moisten with 
 the liquor that remains. Tie the sausages in 
 links, and hang them in a cool, dry place. They 
 will keep for six or eight months. When 
 wanted, drop the sausages into hot water, and 
 let them simmer gently until done enough. 
 Serve them with rice boiled as for curry. Time 
 to boil the sausages, about twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost, about Is. per pound. 
 
 SPANISH SOUP. 
 
 Take a piece of the shin of beef weighing about 
 four pounds, and one pound of the knuckle of 
 ham. Break the bones into small pieces with 
 a cleaver, and tie the meat with string to keep 
 it in shape. Put both into a large pot, and pour 
 over them a gallon of cold water. Bring the 
 liquor gently to the point of boiling, remove the 
 scum carefully, and, before it fully boils, throw 
 half a tea-spoonful of cold water into it once or 
 twice, to assist the scum in rising. Add a little 
 pepper, draw the pan to the side of the fire, and 
 let its contents simmer gently and steadily for 
 two hours and a half. Blanch a table-spoonful 
 of rice, throw it into the soup, and boil it an 
 hour longer. Half an hour before the soup is to 
 be served, put into it a pint of Brussels sprouts 
 and an onion thinly sliced. If preferred, other 
 vegetables may be added to or substituted for 
 the sprouts. They must be blanched and 
 stewed in the soup long enough to cook them, 
 and no longer. Eemove the bones from the 
 soup, take up the meat, put it on a dish, gar- 
 nish with the sprouts, and serve very hot. Send 
 the soup to table in a tureen. If the ham has 
 not made the broth sufficiently salt, a little 
 more salt should be, added. Time, three hours 
 and a half from the time the water boils. Prob- 
 able cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient for seven or eight 
 persons. 
 SPANISH SOUP (another way). 
 
 Butter a large stewpan thickly; place in it, 
 in an even layer, two large onions cut into slices, 
 four ounces of lean ham cut into dice, and two 
 pounds of freshly-killed juicy beef cut into pieces 
 two inches square. Add any bones and trim- 
 mings of meat or poultry that may be at hand, 
 or if an old pheasant, partridge, or hen can be 
 procured at a small expense, truss it for boil- 
 ing, brown it in a saucepan with a little butter, 
 and lay it upon the meat. Pour over these in- 
 gredients as much stock as will barely cover 
 them, and boil quickly till it begins to thicken 
 and look like gum. Slacken the heat of the fire, 
 and let the saucepan remain on it till this gum 
 has become a bnght-brown colour; pour upon 
 it two quarts of stock or water, and add a large 
 
 , carrot, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyui*, 
 a ba7 leaf, a piece of garlic the size of a pea, 
 half a blade of mace, and two cloves. Let the 
 liquor boil, skim carefully, and simmer gently 
 till it is strong and pleasantly flavoured. Strain 
 it, and when coldT remove the fat from the 
 surface. Prepare about a pint and a half of 
 mixed vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, 
 leeks, celery, and Spanish peas. Let these be 
 cut into strips or shapes of an equal size, and 
 partially boil them in plain water. Boil the 
 soup, throw the vegetables into it, and let them 
 remain until done enough. About twenty 
 minutes before the soup is to be served, put into 
 it some small pork sausages, and when these are 
 done enough, serve them with the vegetables in 
 the tureen with the soup. Time, two hours to 
 simmer the stock. Probable cost. Is. 6d. per 
 pint. 
 
 SPEAKER'S PUDDING. 
 
 Butter a plain mould thickly, dredge fiour 
 upon it, and arrange some raisins in even rounds 
 on the inside ; line it with thin strips of crumb 
 . of bread which have been dried before the fire 
 and well buttered. After lining, fill the mould 
 with alternate layers of raisins, sugar, and 
 strips of bread, and let the topmost layer be of 
 bread. Mix the well beaten yolks of four eggs 
 with a pint of milk, add sugar and fiavouring, 
 and pour the custard upon the bread. Let it 
 soak for two hours. Bake or steam the pud- 
 ding, and when done enough turn it out care- 
 fully upon a hot dish, and send sweet sauce to 
 table with it. Time to bake the pudding, 
 about an hour ; to steam it, an hour and a half. 
 Probable cost. Is. 4d. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 SPEARMINT. 
 
 This species of mint is employed in salads and 
 sauces, as well as dried for soups in winter. 
 There are two varieties — the broad and the 
 narrow-leaved; both are equally good. 
 
 SPICE BISCUITS, ALMOND. 
 
 (See Almond Spice Biscuits.") 
 SPICE CAKES. 
 
 These are the French gateaux d'epioe ; they 
 are made of the following ingredients : — Treacle, 
 one pint, the very freshest butter, half a pound, 
 powdered ginger, an ounce, powdered cinna- 
 mon, an ounce, powdered allspice, a quarter 
 of an ounce, coriander-seeds and small car- 
 damom-seeds pounded, each a quarter of an 
 ounce, candied lemon-peel chopped very fine, 
 two ounces^ tincture of vanilla, six drops, 
 flour, as much as necessary. These ingredients 
 are to be thus manipulated : the treacle being 
 set over the fire, the butter is to be added, and, 
 successively, all the other ingredients, except 
 the flour. Let them, when well mixed, take a 
 single boil, stirring all the while, when set them 
 to cool. When cold, mix in with a wooden 
 spoon as much flour as will convert the whole 
 into a pretty stiff paste. Butter a tin baking- 
 dish, and l^y on it with the spoon the paste in 
 bits of the size and shape necessary to form the 
 small, cakes or nuts. Set the baking-dish in the 
 oven.. You may ascertain when these cakes are 
 done by taking one out of the oven, and letting 
 it cool. If, when cold, it is hard, they are 
 
SPI 
 
 856 
 
 SPI 
 
 done enough. These are considered the ne phu 
 ultra of French gingerbread-nuts. 
 
 SPICED BEEF. 
 
 {See Hijnteb's, ob Spiced Beef.) 
 
 SPICE, MIXED, FOR SEASONING SAUCES, 
 STEWS, ETC. 
 
 Take two dozen allspice, the rind of three 
 lemons, a quarter of an ounce of mace, twelve 
 cloves, and two nutmegs. Powder the ingre- 
 dients, first separately, and afterwards together, 
 and mix with them a salt-spoonful of cayenne 
 and three ounces of white pepper. Put the 
 powder into a perfectly dry and sound bottle, 
 cork closely, and store in a dry place till wanted. 
 It will retain its flavour for months. 
 SPICE, MIXED (another way.) 
 
 Take three-quarters of an ounce of ground 
 allspice, three-quarters of an ounce of ground 
 black pepper, three-quarters of an ounce of 
 grated nutmeg, an ounce and a half of ground 
 ginger, a dozen cloves powdered, and nine 
 ounces of salt. Mix these ingredients 
 thoroughly, put the powder into a dry, closely- 
 stoppered bottle, and keep it corked for use. 
 
 SPICE, MIXED, FOR WHITE SAUCE. 
 
 {See Kitchen Mixed Spice, etc.) 
 SPICE NUTS. 
 
 Take four eggs and beat them up; stir in a 
 pound of sifted sugar, half an ounce of pow- 
 dered cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of 
 powdered cloves, and the peel of a lemon cut 
 very fine. Stir these ingredients together for a 
 quarter of an hour, then add by degrees a pound 
 of flour and two ounces of candied peel. When 
 this is well mixed, drop the preparation on 
 buttered tins in small lumps. Bake in a 
 moderate ovedi. 
 SPICES. 
 
 Under this head are ranged those vegetable 
 products which are fragrant to the smell and 
 pungent to the palate. "All the substances 
 classed as spices are the product of tropical 
 climates only; none of our native plants, and 
 no plants that come to maturity in the open 
 air in this climate, possess suflicient aromatic 
 flavour to be reckoned among the spices. The 
 most valuable of these natur^ productions were 
 originally found in the islands situated* in the 
 Indian Ocean, called the Spice Islands or 
 Moluccas, and were probably conveyed from 
 them in the most distant ages." The chief 
 spices are pepper, cinnamjon, cloves, nutmeg, 
 mace, ginger, allspice, etc. 
 
 SPICES, WHOLESOMENESS OF. 
 
 On the use of foreign spices we may quote 
 Dr. Paris, in his work "On Diet." "These are 
 not," he says, "intended by Nature for the in- 
 habitants of temperate climes: they are heat- 
 ing and highly stimulant. I am, however, not 
 anxious to give more weight to this objection 
 than it deserves. Man is no longer the child 
 of Nature, nor the passive inhabitant of any 
 particular region ; he ranges over every part of 
 the globe, and elicits nourishment from the pro- 
 ductions of every climate. It may be, there- 
 fore, necessary that he should accompany the 
 ingestion of foreign aliment with foreign condi- 
 ment. Nature is very kind in favouring the 
 
 growth of those productions which are moat 
 likely to answer our local wants. Those climates, 
 for instance, which engender endemic diseases 
 are in general congenial to the growth of the 
 plants which operate as antidotes to them. But 
 if we go to the East for tea, there is no reason 
 why we should not go to the West for sugar. 
 The dyspeptic invalid, however, should be 
 cautious in their use, for they may afford tem- 
 porary benefit at the expense of permanent mis- 
 chief. It has been well said that the best 
 quality of spices is to stimulate the appetite, 
 and their worst to destroy, by insensible de- 
 grees, the tone of the stomach. The intrinsic 
 goodness of meats should always be suspected 
 when they require spicy seasoning to compen- 
 sate for their natural want of sapidity." 
 
 SPINACH. 
 
 Spinach is a vegetable of an agreeable taste, 
 light, and wholesome. It contains, however, 
 very little nourishment. It should be washed 
 in two or three waters, then drained on a sieve 
 instead of being dried in a cloth, as it is very 
 delicate, and needs to be gently handled. It is 
 generally boiled, and served with meat as a 
 puree, or with cream or gravy; or it may be 
 pressed into a mould, and served in a shape 
 with poached eggs laid upon it. It is to be had 
 during the spring and autumn. 
 SPINACH AND TOAST. 
 
 Clean and cook the spinach in the usual way; 
 then chop finely and keep it as hot as possible. 
 Cover squares of nicely buttered toast with this, 
 place dainty shapes of toast on the top of the 
 squares. The dish is improved if a poached 
 
 SPINACH AND TOAST. 
 
 egg is placed on the top, and cream sauce 
 poured round. To make the sauce, mix a 
 dessert-spoonful of flour with a little cold milk, 
 and add pepper and salt to taste. Boil a gill of 
 milk, and stir the flour into it. Boil all until 
 thick. When slightly cool, stir in a gill of 
 thick cream; do not boil this, or it will curdle. 
 SPINACH, BOILED (common English method). 
 
 Take three pounds of spinach, young and 
 freshly-gathered. Pick away the stalks, wash 
 the leaves in several waters, lift them out with 
 the hands that the sand or grit may remain 
 at the bottom, and drain them on a sieve. Put 
 them into a saucepan with a good sprinkling of 
 salt and the water which clings to the leaves, 
 and let them boil until tender. Take the 
 spinach up, drain it, and press it well; chop 
 it small, and put it into a, clean saucepan with 
 a little pepper and salt and a slice of fresh 
 butter. Stir it well for five minutes. Serve 
 on a hot dish, and garnish with fried sippets. 
 Tim© to boil the spinach, ten to fifteen minutes. 
 
SPI 
 
 857 
 
 SPI 
 
 Probable cost, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. 
 
 SPINACH CREAM. 
 
 Break the yolks of four eggfs in a bowl, and 
 free them from specks. Beat them well, and 
 etir into them the third of a pint of hot milk 
 and half a pint of thick cream. Sweeten the 
 mixture, and put it into a saucepan with half 
 a stick of cinnamon. Stir it over a gentle fire 
 till it begins to thicken; add one-eighth of 
 a pint of spinach juice, and stir it again till it 
 ia equally coloured. Slice some sponge biscuits, 
 put them into a glass dish, pour the cream 
 ■upon them, and lay thin strips of candied fruit 
 on the surface. Serve cold. If preferred, 
 macaroons or preserved oranges may be sub- 
 stituted for the sponge biscuits, or the cream 
 Tnay be served in custard glasses. To prepare 
 "the spinach juice, see Spinach, Gkeen, fob 
 C01.OUBING. Time, a few minutes to simmer 
 "the custard. Probable cost, about 3s. Sufficient 
 for a moderate-sized supper-dish. 
 
 SPINACH, CROUSTADES OF. 
 
 Cut some bread into the shape of hearts, and 
 slit them all round, then fry them in butter. 
 Arrange the hearts in the form of a rosette. 
 Next cut a round of bread, which slit in the 
 same way, and place it in the centre over the 
 points of the hearts. Fry them till they are of 
 a fine brown, then cut out the interior, take out 
 all the crumb, and fill the space left with 
 spinach, dressed either with cream or consomme. 
 
 SPINACH, DANDELION LEAVES DRESSED LIKE. 
 
 When spinach is out of season, dandelion 
 leaves may be substituted for it. The young 
 leaves only should be used, and they may 
 be boiled and served just like spinach. As they 
 shrink very much in boiling, a large quantity 
 -will be required for a moderate-sized dish. 
 Turnip-tops, beetroot-tops, and even young 
 nettles, as we have remarked elsewhere, may all 
 he used as substitutes for spinach. 
 
 ePINACH, DRESSED. 
 
 Pick the leaves from the stems, wash them 
 ■well, and throw them into a large saucepan, and 
 salt them. If old, the spinach must have a 
 little boiling water with it. Boil fast for ten 
 minutes, then strain on the back of a sieve or 
 colander; press the spinach in a napkin, and 
 squeeze out all the water that remains. Put 
 the spinach into a stewpan with a little butter, 
 pepper and salt, and about ten minutes before 
 serving place it on the stove to be made hot; 
 add about half a cupful of cream, pile the 
 spinach on the dish, and send to table. " When 
 spinach," says M. Ude, " is dressed to put under 
 meat, whether fricandeau' or sweetbread, etc., 
 it must be more highly seasoned than when 
 dressed for entremets, and a little more liquid, 
 as it is like sauce. Spinach is often used in 
 sweet dishes to dye the almonds or make the 
 green colour of the marbled biscuit. Pound in 
 the mortar some of the spinach, and squeeze the 
 juice out of it by pressing it through a towel; 
 put the liquor into a small stewpan, and place 
 the stewpan in a hot-water bath to poach. When 
 the green is settled at the bottom of the stew- 
 pan, drain it through a silk sieve, and use it 
 for almonds, or whatever else requires green." 
 
 SPINACH, FRENCH MODE OF DRESSING. 
 
 Prepare the spinach exactly as in Spinach 
 WITH Geavt. When it has been boiled, drained, 
 soaked in cold water, squeezed dry, and 
 chopped small, dissolve two ounces of fresh 
 butter in a saucepan, and stir th^ spinach in 
 it over the fire till it is hot and dry. Add to it 
 gradually two or three spoonfuls of boiling 
 cream. Add a dessert-spoonful of powdered 
 sugar and a little salt, and stir the mixture over 
 the fire till the moisture is absorbed; then 
 serve the spinach very hot. Garnish the dish 
 with fried sippets, or freshly-baked pieces of 
 pufE-paste cut into fancy shapes. Time, ten 
 minutes to boil the spinach. Probable cost, 
 spinach, 3d. to 6d. per pound. 
 
 SPINACH FRITTERS. 
 
 Take spinach and boil it thoroughly, drain it 
 well, mince, and add some grated bread, nut- 
 meg, ginger, and cinnamon, all pounded. Add 
 as much cream or yolks and whites of eggs as 
 will make the preparation of the consistency of 
 batter; scald a few currants, and mix them in. 
 Drop the batter into a frying-pan on boiling 
 lard; when the fritters rise, take them out, 
 drain, and send them to table. 
 
 SPINACH, GREEN, FOR COLOURING SOUPS, 
 SWEET DISHES, ETC. 
 
 Wash any quantity of spinach, and put it 
 with the moisture still clinging to it into a 
 mortar, and pound it to pulp. Press it through 
 a sieve, or squeeze it in a cloth to obtain as 
 much juice as possible from it. Pour the juice 
 into a jar, and set this into a pan of water on 
 the point of boiling, and let it simmer for 
 half an hour. Cover it up, and keep it in a 
 cool place till wanted. If soup is to be coloured, 
 mix a little greening with a little boiling stock, 
 and add this to the soup. If sweet dishes are in 
 question, mix a little of the prepared juice with 
 finely-powdered sugar, and add this to the in- 
 gredients. Time to poach the juice, three or 
 four minutes. 
 
 SPINACH MOULD. 
 
 Take the remains of some cooked spinach, and 
 mix thoroughly together with two chopped 
 boiled Spanish onions, then turn them into a 
 stewpan with two ounces of butter, a table- 
 spoonful of stock, and pepper and salt to taste. 
 When quite hot, mix again, and press tightly 
 into a buttered basin or mould. Heat in the 
 oven for about ten minutes, then turn out care- 
 fully, and garnish neatly with rounds of hard' 
 boiled egg. 
 
 SPINACH OMELET. 
 
 Beat a large table-spoonful of flour smoothly 
 with four table-spoonfuls of cold milk; add two 
 ounces of butter melted, a seasoning of pepper, 
 salt, and grated nutmeg, and the yolks of four 
 well-beaten eggs. Wash thoroughly and after- 
 wards shred finely a quarter of a pound of 
 spinach, a quarter of a pound of beet, half an 
 ounce of parsley, a quarter of an ounce of lemon- 
 thyme, and a quarter of an ounce of leeks. Mix 
 the chopped vegetables together, and stir them 
 into the batter. Butter a pie-dish thickly jiist 
 before the omelet is to be baked; whisk the 
 whites of the eggs to a firm froth, stir them 
 into the preparation, turn it into the buttered 
 
SPI 
 
 .858 
 
 SPI 
 
 dish, and bake in a quick oven. Time .to 
 bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, lOd. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 SPINACH, PLAINLY DRESSED. 
 
 Pick the leaves from the stalks, and wash the 
 .spinach in several waters to free it from 
 sand and grit. Put it into a large sauce- 
 pan with as much water only as will keep it 
 from burning ; add a small spoonful of salt, and 
 'turn it frequently till it is quite tender. Drain 
 it on a colander, squeeze it dry, chop it small, 
 and add pepper and salt. Put it, when thus 
 chopped, again into the colander with a small 
 piece of butter, place this upon a saucepan of 
 boiling water over the fire, and turn the spinach 
 about that the steam passing through the holes 
 of the colander may dry the vegetable. When 
 hot and quite dry, serve immediately. Some- 
 times fried sippets of bread are put round the 
 spinach, or bread fried and cut into dice is 
 sprinkled upon it. Time to boil the spinach, 
 ten minutes or more, according to the age of 
 the leaves. Probable cost, 3d. to 6d. per pound. 
 Sufficient, two pounds for four or five persons. 
 
 SPINACH PUDDING. 
 
 Take six good table-spoonfuls of spinach when 
 boiled, pressed, and chopped (or, it may be, 
 spinach dressed the previous day) ; add the same 
 quantity of bread-crumbs soaked in milk and 
 drained, a little salt, grated nutmeg, or mace, 
 and four eggs beaten up; mix all well together; 
 butter a pudding-mould, and boil one hour and 
 a half. Spinach pudding is eaten with melted 
 butter or shrimp sauce. 
 
 SPINACH, PUREE OF, WITH BUTTER. 
 
 Pick the stalks from three pounds of spinach, 
 and wash it in two or three waters. Lift it out 
 of the water with the fingers that the sand may 
 settle at the bottom, and put it into a sauce- 
 pan with as much boiling water slightly salted 
 as will keep it from burning. £eep it boiling 
 till it is tender, and press it under the water 
 occasionally with a wooden spoon. Drain it 
 well; carefully pick away any stalks or fibre 
 that may still remain in it, and rub it through 
 a coarse sieve. Put the pulp into a saucepan 
 with a slice of fresh butter and a little pepper 
 and salt, and stir it briskly over the fire till it 
 is quite hot. Add a spoonful or two of sauce, 
 and let it remain on the fire, stirring all the 
 time, for five minutes. Serve very hot, and 
 garnish with fried sippets, or pile it in the 
 centre of a dish, and place lamb or mutton cut- 
 lets on end round it, the long bones inclining 
 towards each other. Time to boil the spinach, 
 ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 3d. to 
 6d. per pound. 
 
 SPINACH SAUCE, FOR BOILED FOWLS, ETC. 
 
 Wash the spinach in two or three waters. Pick 
 the leaves from the stalks, drain them, and stew 
 them with as much water only as will keep them 
 from burning. Squeeze the moisture from them, 
 and beat with a wooden spoon till smooth. 
 Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a saucepan, 
 put in the spinach, and stir it till it is quite 
 hot and dry. Add pepper and salt and as much 
 boiling milk as will make the sauce of the con- 
 sistency of thick cream. Stir till smooth, and 
 serve very hot. Time to stew, about ten minutes. 
 
 SPINACH SOUP. 
 
 Wash some freshly-gathered young spinach 
 leaves. Shred finely as many as will fill a large 
 basin, and put with them a lettuce, also finely- 
 shredded, and two or three leaves of sorrel. 
 Throw them into boiling water, and let them boil 
 quickly for five or six minutes. Drain them, 
 put them into plenty of cold water to preserve 
 the colour, and squeeze the moisture from them-. 
 Dissolve two ounces of butter in a saucepan- 
 Mix it smoothly with a heaped table-spoonful 
 of flour; add the vegetables gradually, and when 
 they are roughly blended with the butter and 
 flour, pour in, little by little, two quarts of 
 boiling water or vegetable stock. Boil all 
 gently together for a quarter of an hour. Put 
 in, off the fire, a gill of boiling milk or cream, 
 and pepper and salt, if required, and serve very 
 hot. Time, about an hour. 
 
 SPINACH SOUP (k Ja Franfaise). 
 
 Make as much clear stock as will be needed', 
 and put it boiling hot into the tureen. Have 
 ready some spinach boiled in the usual way. 
 Press this till quite dry, season with pepper 
 and salt, and make it into balls the size of a 
 walnut. Gently and carefully slip these into 
 the golden-coloured stock. The contrasting 
 colours in the soup will have a very good 
 appearance. 
 
 SPINACH SOUP (a maigre soup). 
 
 Take chopped spinach enough to fill a large 
 bowl, a lettuce, and two leaves of sorrel; fry 
 them in butter until browned, put them in a 
 saucepan with three pints of boiling water, also 
 an onion stuck round with cloves, a very stale 
 French roll sliced, and some blanched and 
 shredded pistachio kernels. Let all simmer to- 
 gether. Beat up the yolks of eight eggs with a 
 little wine and the juice of a lemon, and add to 
 the broth when it is strained. Serve with a 
 toasted French roll in the centre of the dish, and 
 garnish with poached egg and scalded spinach. 
 SPINACH, TO SERVE. 
 
 This vegetable must be washed thoroughly in 
 several waters to free it from grit. To do this 
 lift it out of the water in both hands, a" small 
 quantity at a time. The stalk must be pulled 
 from each leaf before boiling. Put the. pre- 
 pared spinach into an empty saucepan with a 
 small tea-cupful of water, sprinkle a little 
 salt over it, and stir it constantly to pre- 
 vent burning. Boil the spinach till it be- 
 comes tender. Place the boiled spinach on a 
 colander or sieve, press it, chop it -on a clean 
 board, put it into a saucepan, add butter and 
 gravy or stock — taking care, however, not to 
 thin it too much — and taste whether it is 
 salt enough. Stir it over the fire till the liquid 
 is absorbed, pile on a hot dish, and serve. Half 
 an ounce of butter and one table-spoonful of 
 cream or broth, will be enough for one pouni 
 of spinach. If cream a day old is to be ob- 
 tained, we may finally incorporate a little flout- 
 with it, and add the whole to the spinach. 
 To embellish this dish, cut milk bread into 
 slices, forming the crust into points, fry 
 in butter till jrellow, prepare poached eggs, 
 and serve the spinach, placing round it first an 
 egg and then a crust alternately, sprinkling 
 bread-crumbs over the vegetable itself. 
 
SPI 
 
 859 
 
 SPI 
 
 SPINACH, WITH CREAM. 
 
 Boil and drain two pounds of spinach in the 
 usual way. Press it between two plates to free 
 it thoroughly from moisture, and heat it in a 
 •clean saucepan with a little pepper and salt 
 and a small lump of butter. WJien it is dry, 
 add very gradually two table-spoonfuls of boil- 
 ing cream, and simmer it gently for five 
 minutes. Serve very hot. If liked, gravy may 
 be substituted for the cream. Time to boil the 
 spinach, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 
 3d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for three or 
 four persons. 
 
 SPINACH, WITH EGGS. 
 
 Wash the spinach in several waters. Pick ofl 
 all the stalks, reject the decayed and discoloured 
 leaves, and boil tjhe spinach with as much 
 slightly-salted water as will keep it from burn- 
 ing. Leave the saucepan uncovered. Press the 
 spinach under the water occasionally, and let 
 it boil till tender. Put it into a colander, and 
 press the moisture from it with the back of a 
 plate. Mince it finely, then put it into a sauce- 
 pan with a slice of fresh butter and a little 
 pepper and salt, and stir it well till it is hot and 
 dry. Put it on a hot dish, smooth it with the 
 blade of a knife, and mark it in squares. Place 
 as many poached eggs as there are guests on 
 the top of the spinach, or, if preferred, put 
 them round it, each egg on a piece of buttered 
 toast. Serve the whole very hot. If a superior 
 dish is required, the spinach, after being boiled 
 till tender, may be rubbed through a wire sieve, 
 and the pulp heated with a slice of fresh butter, 
 a table-spoonful of thick cream, and a little 
 pepper and salt. To poach the eggs, proceed as 
 follows. Break the eggs carefully into separate 
 cups. Have ready a small omelet-pan with as 
 much boiling water in it as will cover the eggs. 
 Throw into this a tea-spoonful of vinegar and 
 a pinch of salt. Slip the eggs gently into the 
 water one at a time. As soon as one sets put in 
 another, and boil them gently until done 
 enough. When the yolks are covered with a 
 thin filmy veil, and the whites are firm, lift the 
 eggs out with a slicer, drain them for a moment, 
 and place them on the spinach. Time to boil 
 the spinach, ten to fifteen minutes. 
 
 SPINACH, WITH GRAVY. 
 
 Take three pounds of spinach. Pick the 
 leaves from the stalks and wash them well in 
 several waters, drain them, throw them into 
 a saucepan with plenty of slightly salted 
 boiling water, and let them boil for five 
 minutes. Press the spinach, and throw it 
 into cold water for half an hour to pre- 
 serve the colour. Take it out of the water a 
 little at a time, make it into small balls to press 
 . the moisture thoroughly from it, spread it on a 
 dish, pick out ^ny stalks or straws that may 
 have been inadvertently left in it, and chop it 
 small. Mix an ounce of butter with an ounce 
 of flour smoothly in a, saucepan, add a pinch 
 of salt, and stir the mixture over the fire for 
 three minutes. Put in the spinach, and stir 
 it for five minutes. Pour in a quarter of a pint 
 of stock, and when this is thoroughly blended 
 with the vegetable, add, a little at a time, half 
 a pint more : stir the spinach again for five 
 minutes. Lift it from the fire, stir into it till 
 
 dissolved an ounce of fresh butter, and serve 
 very hot. Garnish the dish with triangular 
 pieces of toasted crumb of bread half an inch 
 thick. Spinach when thus dressed will con- 
 stitute an enjoyable accompaniment to veal or 
 boiled mutton. With roast meat it is best when 
 served plain. Time, altogether, about an hour. 
 Probable cost of spinach, 3d. to 6d. per pound. 
 .Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 SPINACH, WITH GRAVY (another way). 
 
 Prepare the spinach exactly as in the fore- 
 going recipe. Dissolve two ounces of fresh 
 butter in a saucepan, put in the spinach, and 
 stir it till the butter has dried away. Add a 
 tea-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of sugar, and 
 as much grated nutmeg as will cover a sixpence. 
 Stir it again, and moisten with two table-spoon- 
 fuls of highly-seasoned veal broth and a tea- 
 spoonful of chilli vinegar. Stir it over the fire 
 till the liquid is absorbed, and serve very hot. 
 Time, altogether, about an hour. Probable 
 cost of spinach, 3d. to 6d, per pound. Sufficient 
 for six or eight persons. 
 
 SPIRIT OF LEMON-PEEL. 
 
 When fresh lemons cannot be procured, mix 
 two ounces of rectified spirits of wine with one 
 drachm of essential oil of lemons. Put the 
 preparation into a small bottle, and keep it 
 closely stoppered till wanted. The fiavour of 
 fresh lemon-peel may be imparted to any dish 
 by the addition of three or four drops of this 
 mixture. A few drops of it will also convert a 
 tumblerful of water into lemonade. 
 
 SPIRITS. 
 
 These alcoholic drinks differ from wines and 
 beers in the fact that they are distilled from 
 some form of fermented liquor. We may obtain 
 the alcohol from beer or wine, or from any sub- 
 stance containing sugar which is fermented. 
 
 Alcohol, under the form of distilled spirits, 
 may be obtained from any saccharine substance 
 in a state of fermentation. Xoumis is manu- 
 factured in Tartary from fermented mares' 
 milk, arika from cows' milk. Aqua ardiente is 
 procured in Mexico from the sweet juice of the 
 American sloe. In the East Indies, arrack is 
 made from fermenting rice or palm sago. Fer- 
 menting Machaleb cherries are the source of the 
 German Kirschenwasser. Maraschino is made 
 from Macaiska cherries in Dalmatia. From rice 
 wine a Chinese spirit, Show-ohoo, is distilled. 
 In short, there hardly exists a race of men who 
 have not acquired the art of distilling alcohol 
 after its formation during the fermentation of 
 sugar. In Britain, we arc more particularly 
 acquainted with brandy, gin, whiskey, and rum. 
 
 Brandy is produced by the disttUation of wine 
 alone, and not from any other fermented liquor ; 
 any spirits made from other liquors than wine 
 are improperly termed brandy. Brandy is pre- 
 pared in all the wine countries of Europe, but 
 particularly in France, where, however, the 
 localities of the best French brandy are ex- 
 tremely limited. The grapes most proper for 
 wines are not the best suited for brandy. The 
 general mode of preparing brandy is extremely 
 simple, being nothing more than a well-regu- 
 lated distillation of wine in suitable vessels. 
 At the commencement of the vintage, the manu- 
 
SPI 
 
 S60 
 
 SPO 
 
 facturera collect all the grapes that are not fit 
 for good wine, ferment their juices, and distil 
 them for brandy ; they also use for this purpose 
 all wines that have failed in the making — al- 
 though, if they have become at all acid, the 
 brandy is tainted. 
 
 The spirit next in importance is Gin. " This 
 word is a, corruption of Geneva, as that is of 
 the French word genievre, or juniper. Gin is 
 also called Hollands. Geneva, however, is not 
 gin, but a kind of liqueur made from the berries 
 of the juniper, which contain as much as thirty- 
 four per cent, of sugar, and may be easily fer- 
 mented. Gin was first made in Holland, and 
 was brought into this country as Hollands gin. 
 It is distilled from corn malt, and various sub- 
 stances are added to it to give it flavour. The 
 most common substances of this kind are juni- 
 per berries, but a variety of substances are 
 added to suit the taste of the customer, so that 
 no two gins are alike. In this country every 
 gin distiller uses his own ingredients, whilst 
 the retailer of gin has also his particular recipes 
 for rendering his gin profitable or palatable, 
 or both. Sometimes injurious substances are 
 added to gin to make it taste strong, 'as sul- 
 phuric acid and sulphate of zinc; these, how- 
 ever, are adulterations. The substances used 
 for flavouring gin are numerous enough. Thus 
 we find enumerated bitter almonds, turpentine, 
 creosote, lemon, cardamoms, caraways, cassia, 
 garlic, Canada balsam, horse-radish, cayenne 
 pepper, and grains of paradise. None of these 
 things are poisonous, and probably all of them 
 assist in determining the action of the alcohol 
 of the gin as a diuretic. Gin does not usually 
 contain so much alcohol as brandy — not more 
 than eight ounces to the pint being found in 
 the best gins. Sugar is added by many dis- 
 tillers, but others do not add this ingredient. 
 Gin, as it is retailed, usually contains sugar, 
 and not frequently more than four ounces of 
 alcohol to the pint. It is consequently a 
 weaker spirit generally than brandy, and so far 
 is perhaps less injurious when taken raw. The 
 practice, however, of taking any kind of raw 
 spirits is a very hazardous proceeding, and can- 
 not be habitually indulged in without danger." 
 — Dr. LanhesUr. 
 
 Whiskey is a spirit produced by distillation 
 from grain, roots, and other materials. The 
 best is obtained from barley after it has been 
 malted, though that which goes under the name 
 of raw grain whiskey, made from wheat, oats, 
 rye, Indian corn, rice, etc., is also much used. 
 Whi^ey is also manufactured from potatoes, 
 beetroot, beans, molasses, sugar, etc., malt 
 being sometin^es added to a small extent. This 
 spirit used to be made almost solely in Scot- 
 land, Ireland, and the United States ; but dis- 
 tilleries now are numerous in England, France, 
 Germany, Holland, and Sweden. The foreign 
 epirit is, as a rule, coarse in quality, and only 
 suited for fortifying wines. Whiskey has fre-\ 
 quently a slight smoky flavour, supposed to be 
 owing to the way in which it is prepared. The 
 whiskey ordinarily sold in England is more free 
 from flavouring ingredients than any other form 
 of distilled spirit. 
 
 "Rum," says Dr. Lankester, in his valuable 
 work "On Food," "is less generally consumed 
 
 in England than any other spirit; but from the 
 fact of its being supplied by the Government 
 to our soldiers and sailors, large quantities are 
 entered for consumption in Great Britain. It 
 is principally made in the West Indies, and our 
 supplies are almost wholly drawn from Jamaica, 
 where it is manufactured from the fermented 
 scum of the sugar boilers and molasses. A 
 flavour is often given to it by the addition of 
 slices of pineapple. It is usually sold much 
 above proof, so that a pint of rum will contain 
 fifteen ounces of alcohol. It has a peculiar 
 odour, which is due to butyric ether. Like 
 brandy, it improves by keeping, and probably 
 develops the same class of bouquets as wine. 
 The action of the alcohol of rum is of course 
 the same as that of other fermented liquors; 
 but Dr. Edward Smith has pointed out a curious 
 fact in its action on the system, and that is, 
 that it increases the quantity of carbonic acid 
 thrown out from the lungs. This may be due 
 to the butyric ether. Whether this suggestion 
 be correct or not, it is a curious fact, resulting 
 from Dr. Smith's experiments, that whilst other 
 alcoholic drinks decrease the expiration of car- 
 bonic acid, rum should increase it." 
 
 SPONGE BISCUITS. 
 
 Break four fresh eggs, and put the yolks and 
 whites into separate bowls. Take out the specks, 
 beat the yolks thoroughly, and add gradually, 
 beating the mixture briskly, half a pound of 
 powdered and sifted sugar, a dessert-spoonful 
 of orange-flower water, a quarter of a pound of 
 flour, and, lastly, the whites of the eggs whisked 
 to a froth. Make some biscuit tins hot. Grease 
 them with butter, and while hot sift powdered 
 sugar over them. Three-parts fill them with 
 the batter, and sprinkle sugar over the biscuits 
 before putting them into the oven, which must 
 be very brisk. When done turn them out of 
 the tins, and lay them on a sieve. Time to 
 bake, fifteen to twenty minutes. 
 
 SPONGECAKE (a German recipe). 
 
 Take half a pound of sifted sugar and the 
 yolks of ten eggs ; stir these ingredients for a 
 quarter of an hour. Add six ounces of butter 
 beaten to a cream, half a pound of fine flour, 
 and the grated peel of a lemon and its juice. 
 When these are thoroughly stirred in, add the 
 whites of the ten eggs whipped to a snow. Stir 
 all well together. Then take one or two moulds 
 and butter them. Three-parts fill the moulds, 
 strew thin slices of almonds and some coarsely- 
 powdered sugar on top, and bake the cakes in 
 a moderate oven. 
 SPONGECAKE (another way). 
 
 Boil three-quarters of a pound of the finest 
 loaf sugar pounded in a quarter of a pint of 
 water containing a large spoonful of orange- 
 flower water. Have ready the yolks of seven 
 eggs and the whites of five beaten separately 
 and then mixed, whisk them well, and as you 
 do BO pour into them the hot syrup. Stand the 
 bsjsin over a saucepan of boiling water, draw it 
 back and whip the mixture for twenty minutes. 
 Stir in lightly off the fire half a pound of dried 
 and sifted flour. Add a little finely-shredded 
 lemon-peel, and put the batter into the baking- 
 pan, which must be greased and sugared as m 
 the last recipe. 
 
SPO 
 
 861 
 
 SPO 
 
 SPONGECAKE, ALMOND, SUPERIOR. 
 
 Blanch a pound of sweet almonds, throw them 
 into cold water as they are done, dry them well, 
 and pound smoothly, sprinkling the whole of 
 three eggs upon them during the process. Work 
 thoroughly with them » spoonful of grated 
 lemon-rind, a pound of powdered sugar, and the 
 well-beaten jrolks of fifteen eggs. Take the 
 remaining whites of the eggs (msuang altogether 
 fifteen ; inclusive of those which were mixed with 
 the almond-paste), whisk these to a firm froth, 
 and stir them into the cake. Dredge into it 
 a quarter of a pound of dried flour, and beat it 
 briskly for a few minutes. Butter a mould, sift 
 powdered sugar into it, pour the batter in till 
 it is half full, and bake immediately. Let the 
 cake stand a few minutes, turn it out carefully, 
 and put it on a sieve. Time to bake, about an 
 hour. Probable cost, 2s. 
 
 SPONGECAKE PUDDING. 
 
 Take three or four stale sponge biscuits, or 
 an equal quantity of stale spongecake, cut 
 into slices, put these into a thickly-buttered 
 dish, and pour upon them a pint and a half of 
 boiling milk which has been sweetened and 
 flavoured with a table-spoonful of brandy and 
 with lemon or almond flavouring. Cover the 
 dish with a plate, and let the pudding soak for 
 an hour. Beat it up with a fork, stir into it 
 three or four well-beaten eggs, pour some clari- 
 fied fresh butter upon the top, sift powdered 
 sugar on the surface, and bake the pudding in a 
 gentle oven. If liked, cream may be used in- 
 stead of milk. Time to bake, about three- 
 quarters of an hour. Probable cost. Is. 4d. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 SPONGECAKES AND CREAM. 
 
 Cut some spongecakes in halves and lay them 
 in a glass dish, soak them in a little milk, and 
 when they seem soft sprinkle a cupful of castor 
 sugar over, and pour a gill of cream over all. 
 Garnish with candied cherries, strips of an- 
 gelica, or blanched almonds. 
 
 SPONGECAKES, ICED. 
 
 Make some sponge batter in the usual way, 
 and bake it in a moderate oven in a large flat 
 cake an inch thick. When done enough take it 
 out, let it get cold, and with a" sharp knife cut 
 it into fancy shapes of any size and form. Put 
 these on a baking sheet, spread jam over them, 
 and place on this a coating of icing a quarter 
 of an inch thick. Put them in a screen or in 
 a warm situation till the icing is firmly set, and 
 use them for dessert, etc. The icing may be 
 prepared as follows. Break the whites of two 
 eggs into a bowl, stir into them sufficient fine 
 sugar to make a Stiffish paste, and beat the 
 mixture briskly with a wooden spoon. Add 
 every now and then one or two drops of lemon- 
 juice. When ready, cover the icing with a, wet 
 cloth till wanted. 
 
 SPONGECAKES (safe general rule for making all 
 sizes). '.. 
 
 Take any number of fresh eggs, with their 
 weight in sugar, half their weight in flour, and 
 any flavouring that may be chosen. Break the 
 eggs, put the yolks and the whites into separate 
 bowls, and take away the specks. Beat the 
 yolks and the sugar together, add the flour, and. 
 
 lastly, the whites of the eggs beaten to a firm 
 froth. Beat the mixture thoroughly, put the 
 batter into a tin lined with buttered paper, and 
 bake in a brisk oven. 
 
 SPONGECAKES, SMALL. 
 
 No. 1. Take eight eggs, with their weight 
 in powdered sugar, and the weight of four of 
 them in dried and sifted flour. Beat the yolks 
 of the eggs with the sugar and whatever flavour- 
 ing is approved for aiquarter of an hour, stir ia 
 the flour lightly and gradually, and when it i» 
 smoothly mixed add the whites of the eggs 
 whisked to a firm froth. Butter the tins, half 
 fill them with the batter, sift powdered sugar 
 over, and bake in a quick oven. Take the 
 cakes out of the tins before they are cold, place 
 them upside down on a sieve, and let them re- 
 main for an hour. Place them in a closely- 
 covered tin canister to remain till wanted. The 
 cakes must not be allowed to acquire much 
 colour. No. 2. — Break five eggs, and put the 
 yolks and the whites into separate bowls. Beat 
 the yolks with half a pound of sugar till the 
 mixture is light and smooth, add the whites 
 whisked to a firm froth, four ounces of dried 
 and sifted flour, and the grated rind and 
 strained juice of one lemon. Put into tins, and 
 bake as before. No. 3. — Break two eggs into a. 
 bowl. Beat them till light and frothy, add a 
 tea-cupful of powdered sugar, and, gradually, 
 a tea-cupful of dried flour. Put the batter into 
 tins, and bake the cakes in a brisk oven. Time 
 to bake, from ten to fifteen minutes. 
 
 SPONGECAKES (various recipes). 
 
 No. 1. — Break seven eggs, and put the whites 
 and the yolks into separate bowls. Take out 
 the specks, and beat the yolks of the eggs, add 
 half a pound of powdered and sifted sugar, the 
 grated rind and strained juice of half a lemon, 
 six ounces of dried flour, and lastly the whites 
 of the eggs whisked to a firm froth. Grease a 
 hot tin with butter free from moisture. While 
 still warm, sift sugar upon it, pour in the 
 batter, and bake the cake in a moderate oven. 
 Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour to one 
 hour. Probable cost. Is. 2d. for a cake this size. 
 No. 2. — ^Bruise half a pound of vanilla, tie it 
 in muslin, and simmer it gently with a pound 
 of loaf sugar till the syrup is clear and 
 pleasantly flavoured. Strain it through a jelly- 
 bag, and stir it till cool. Beat the whites of 
 three eggs to a firm froth, stir them into the 
 syrup, add the well-beaten yolks of six eggs, 
 and lastly six ounces of dried flour. When the 
 batter is thoroughly mixed, pour it into a well- 
 oiled mould, and bake the cake immediately in 
 a well-heated oven. If liked, the syrup can be 
 flavoured with lemon-rind instead of vanilla. 
 Time to bake, about an hour. No. 3. — Take 
 three eggs and their weight in flour, and four 
 eggs and their weight in sugar. Put the yolks 
 of the seven eggs and the sugar into a saucepan, 
 and beat them over a gentle fire till they are 
 new-milk-warm. Pour them into a basin, and 
 put with them a table-spoonful of brandy and 
 any flavouring that may be preferred; Stir them 
 well together, and dredge the flour in very 
 gradually, beating the mixture all the time. 
 Whisk the whites of the eggs to a solid froth, 
 stir them into the batter, and beat it again for 
 
SPO 
 
 862 
 
 SPR 
 
 a quarter of an hour. Butter a mould, sprinkle 
 powdered sugar upon it, pour in the cake, and 
 put it immediately into a well-heated oven. 
 Time to bake, about one hour and a half. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 6d. 
 SPONGECAKES, WITH APPLE SNOW. 
 
 Cut four or five stale penny spongecakes into 
 thin slices ; lay these on a glass dish, and pour 
 cfver them half a pint of good custard or cream 
 flavoured with a little brandy. Bake half a 
 dozen large apples in a well-heated oven till 
 they break and are soft. Scrape the pulp away 
 from the skin and cores, weigh it, and a quarter 
 of an hour before it is wanted beat up with 
 half a pound of it the strained juice of a lemon, 
 as much powdered sugar as will sweeten it 
 pleasantly — ^the quantity needed will depend 
 upon the quality of the apples — and the well- 
 whisked whites of two eggs. Beat the apple- 
 mixture with a whisk till it looks light and 
 frothy, and has the appearance of snow, pile it 
 on the custard, and serve immediately. Time, 
 two hours to soak the spongecakes in the cus- 
 tard. Probable cost. Is. 6d. if the custard be 
 made with milk. Sufficient for a small supper 
 dish. 
 
 SPONGE CHEESECAKES. 
 
 Crumble two ounces of stale spongecake, and 
 soak it in a table-spoonful of milk; then beat 
 together two ounces of sugar and one and a 
 half ounces of butter for a few minutes; add a 
 beaten egg and beat up again; then add the 
 cake dissolved in milk, and a little lemon juice 
 or other flavouring ; lastly, add half a tea-spoon- 
 ful of baking powder. Make a good short paste 
 and line some patty-pans with it. Three-parts 
 fill them with the mixture to give it space 
 to rise. Some currants may be sprinkled on 
 top. Bake in a brisk oven until nicely browned. 
 
 SPONGE PUDDING. 
 
 Mix well together a pound of flour, a tea- 
 spoonful of ground ginger, the same of tartaric 
 acid, half a tea-spoonful of ground cloves and 
 nutmeg mixed, a quarter of a pound of clarified 
 dripping, a raw egg, two ounces of brown sugar, 
 and a gill and a half of milk. After this mix- 
 ture has been well beaten and thoroughly in- 
 corporated, add a tea-spoonful of carbonate of 
 soda dissolved m a table-spoonful of water, 
 and beat it well in. Put the mixture in a 
 greased basin, leaving nearly a third of the room 
 for it to swell, and steam it for two and a half 
 to three hours. Probable cost, 8d. 
 SPONGE RUSKS. 
 
 Cut a stale spongecake in finger-lengths, and 
 brown them on both sides in the oven. When 
 crisp, put them in a tin canister, and keep in 
 a dry place. 
 SPONGE SAVOY. 
 
 Break six eggs, and put the yolks and whites 
 into separate bowls. Beat the yolks lightly, 
 and then add a pinch of salt, half a pound of 
 powdered and sifted sugar, and a little flavour- 
 ing. Beat these ingredients together briskly 
 with a wooden spoon for a quarter of an hour. 
 Add a quarter of a pound of cornflour, and 
 lastly, stir in lightly the whites of the eggs 
 whisked to a firm frotlT. Pour the batter gently 
 into a mould which has been buttered and 
 
 covered with sifted sugar, and bake the cake 
 in a moderate oven. Turn it out carefully, and 
 put it on a sieve till cold. Time to bake, about 
 an hour. Probable cost, about Is. 
 
 SPORTSMAN'S PUNCH. 
 
 Boil together a pint of water and four ounces 
 of lump sugar, add the thin rind and strained 
 juice of half a lemon. _ Pour the syrup into a hot 
 jug, add a pint of whiskey and a wine-glassful of 
 old pale brandy cold, and half as much old ale 
 boiling hot. Serve at once. 
 
 SPRATS. 
 
 This is a very common fish on many parts of 
 the British coast, and elsewhere in the northern 
 parts of the Atlantic. It is smaller than the 
 herring, being only about six inches long when 
 full-grown. It strongly resembles the herring, 
 however, though it is easily distinguished " by 
 the serrated belly, and by the position of the 
 fins, the ventral fins beginning immediately be- 
 neath the first ray of the dorsal fin, and not 
 beneath the middle of it, as in the herring and 
 pilchard. Another easily-observed distinction 
 is the want of axillary hairs to the ventral fins, 
 which both the herring and pilchard have. The 
 dentition is also different. Notwithstanding 
 all this, an old opinion has often been put for- 
 ward, and urged with some pertinacity on pub- 
 lic attention, that the sprat is the young of the 
 herring, which, therefore, it is injurious to a 
 more important fishery to capture." Sprats 
 are wholesome, and of a good flavour. They 
 may be smoked, dried, potted, or fried, but they , 
 are best when broiled, as they are of a very oily 
 nature. They are in season during the winter. 
 They should be chosen as fresh as possible. 
 This may be known by the brightness of their 
 eyes and their silvery look. Though many per- 
 sons eat them with salt alone, it will be found 
 that their flavour is improved by the addition 
 of a little lemon-juice and cayenne. 
 
 SPRATS, BAKED. 
 
 Clean the sprats, cut off the heads, draw them 
 at the gills, and dry them with a soft cloth. 
 Put them into a dish, and cover with equal 
 quantities of vinegar and water. Add a little 
 seasoning in the proportion of a bay-leaf, a 
 small onion, two or three allspice, a little salt, 
 and a quarter of an ounce of whole pepper to 
 each pint of the liquor. Cover the dish closely, 
 and bake the sprats till done enough in a gentle 
 oven. When they are cold, take off the cover, 
 pour cold vinegar over them, and tie them up. 
 They will keep for a week or two. Time to 
 bake, half to three-quarters of an hour. Prob- 
 able cost. Id. per pound. 
 
 SPRATS, BROILED. 
 
 Clean the sprats, dry them well, and draw 
 them at the ^ills. Dip them lightly in flour, 
 fasten them in rows on small skewers run 
 through the heads, and broil them on a closely- . 
 barred gridiron over a slow fire. When they 
 are done upon one side, turn them on the other. 
 Serve them on a very hot dish. They are gener- 
 ally served dry, but if liked a little lemon-juice 
 may be squeezed over them at the last moment. 
 Time to broil the sprats, four or five minutes. 
 Probable cost, Id. to 2d. per pound. Sufficient, 
 one pound for three persons. 
 
SPR 
 
 863 
 
 SPR 
 
 SPRATS, DRIED. 
 
 Dried sprats are sometimes eaten plain, but 
 ■they are very dry and salt. If liked, they may 
 he slightly broiled, but perhaps the best way of 
 serving them is to put them in a basin, pour 
 "boiling water upon them, then in a few minutes 
 skin them, and serve them very hot. 
 SPRATS, FRIED. 
 
 Clean the sprats, dry them well, draw them 
 at the gills, dredge them with flour, and run 
 a small skewer through the heads of about a 
 dozen of them. Fry them on the skewer in 
 plenty of hot fat, and when they are nicely 
 browned lift them on a hot dish covered with 
 blotting-paper, and put them before the fire till 
 the fat has drained from them. Fold a hot 
 plate in a warm napkin ; lay this on a hot dish, 
 draw the skewers from the sprats, place them 
 upon it, and garnish the fish with parsley and 
 lemon. Serve as hot as possible. Sometimes 
 the sprats are dipped in egg and bread-crumbs 
 before being fried. Time to fry, two to three 
 minutes. Sufficient for one or two persons. 
 
 SPRATS, PICKLED. 
 
 .. Take a quarter of a peck of sprats as fresh as 
 they can be obtained. Clean them, cut off the 
 heads, and in doing so draw them, and put them 
 into strong brine for an hour. Drain and dry 
 tlem, and put them in layers into a pickling 
 jar. Between each layer sprinkle salt and salt- 
 petre, and let this be also sprinkled under the 
 first layer and over the last. When the jar is 
 full, press the fish down lightly, and cover the 
 jar closely. The fish may be used in three or 
 four months. The salt may be mixed in the 
 following proportions: — Half a pound of salt, 
 half a pound of bay salt, a table-spoonful of 
 white sugar, an ounce of saltpetre, and a pinch 
 of cochineal. Dry the salt, crush and pound it 
 thoroughly, and mix it with the other ingredi- 
 dients, and it will be ready for use. When 
 wanted, the pickled sprats may be fried in 
 butter, and served on buttered toasts, or they 
 may be freed from skin and bone, pounded to 
 paste, and covered with clarified butter. 
 
 SPRATS, PICKLED (another way). 
 
 Take a number of small sprats, cut off the 
 heads, and wash the bodies well. Strew a, 
 quantity of salt over them, and let them lie in 
 a pan all night. Take them out next day, and 
 wipe them well. Then put in a stone jar, or in 
 an iron saucepan, a quantity of vinegar in pro- 
 portion to the quantity of sprats. If the vine- 
 gar is in a stone jar, put it into an oven to 
 boil ; if in an iron vessel, place it over the fire. 
 Put into the vinegar a bunch- of parsley-root, 
 some tarragon leaves, a sprig of thyme, one of 
 marjoram, an onion stuck with cloves, and four 
 or five shallots. Let the vinegar boil with these 
 herbs, then strain it into another stone jar, and 
 let it get cold. Meanwhile, have ready some 
 wide-mouthed pickle or anchovy bottles. Put 
 a layer of sprats at the bottom of each bottle, 
 then a bay-leaf, then a pinch of salt, a grain 
 or two of allspice, and a few peppercorns ; 
 then another layer of sprats ; and so on until the 
 bottles are full. Then fill them with the vine- 
 gar when it is quite cold. Cork the bottles, 
 put bladder over the corks, and sealing wax 
 upon the bladder. In six months the fish will be 
 
 fit for use. Smelts, pickled in the same way are 
 admirable. 
 
 SPRATS, STEWED. 
 
 Clean and wipe the sprats, cut off the heads, 
 draw out the gut, and place the fish in layers 
 in a, moderate-sized saucepan. Between each 
 layer put a pinch of salt, three peppercorns, 
 and three allspice. Barely cover the fish with 
 vinegar, and let them simmer very gently with- 
 out boiling until done enough. Time to simmer, 
 one hour. Probable cost. Id. or 2d. per pound. 
 
 SPRING-HERBS SOUP (excellent for purifying the 
 blood). 
 Shred finely a handful of young dandelion 
 leaves, and the same quantity of chervil and 
 purslain, together with five or six sorrel leaves 
 and two cabbage lettuces. Wash them well, 
 then drain them, and steam them in a closely- 
 covered saucepan with a little pepper and salt 
 and an ounce of fresh butter. , In ten minutes 
 dredge a table-spoonful of flour upon them, and 
 add a pint and a half of white stock. Let the 
 soup simmer gently for a quarter of an hour, and 
 keep stirring it during that time. Strain 
 into it half a pint of boiling milk, and add a 
 tea-spoonful of powdered white sugar. Put the 
 yolks of two eggs into the soup-tureen. Beat 
 them with a spoonful of the soup, which, though 
 thoroughly hot, must not be quite boiling; 
 add the rest of the soup gradually, and serve 
 immediately. If preferred, cream may be used 
 instead of milk. Time, about an hour, exclu- 
 sive of the time consumed in preparing the 
 stock. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 SPRING SALAD. 
 
 Take young and freshly-cut spring vegetables, 
 such as lettuces, young radishes, mustard and 
 cress, and a few spring onions, if liked. Look 
 them carefully over to see that they are clean and 
 free from insects, and wipe them with a cloth, 
 or if necessary plunge them into cold water for a 
 moment, but on no account let them remain in 
 it longer than is necessary to cleanse them. If 
 they have been washed,, dry them perfectly. 
 The best way of doing this is to let them drain 
 for a little time, then put a small quantity at a 
 time into a dry napkin; shake this by the four 
 corners till all the moisture is expelled. The 
 goodness of a salad depends to a great extent 
 upon the vegetables being perfectly dry. Tear 
 them into small pieces with the hands; arrange 
 them in the salad-bowl, so that the light and 
 dark greens shall contrast prettily. Put the 
 radishes and onions round, and garnish the 
 dish with parsley or nasturtium leaves, beetroot, 
 hard-boiled egg, etc. Send any good salad- 
 sauce (see Salad, Mayonnaise Sauce poe) to 
 table in a boat, and stir it briskly into the 
 salad at the moment of serving. If it should 
 be preferred, the salad-sauce may be dispensed 
 with, and the salad prepared as follows. For 
 a moderate-sized salad-bowl or salad, mix in 
 the salad-spoon a spoonful of mustard, a spoon- 
 ful of salt, and half a spoonful of pepper, and 
 stir into these a table-spoonful of vinegar, and, 
 if liked, a few drops of tarragon vinegar may, 
 be added. Work these lightly but thoroughly 
 into the salad, then put in four table-spoonfuls 
 of best Lueca oil, and stir the salad again for a 
 few minutes. Serve immediately. 
 
SPR 
 
 864 
 
 SPR 
 
 SPRING SOUP. 
 
 Take a mixture of any or all kinds of early 
 vegetables, such as young turnips and carrots, 
 spring onions, mustard and cress, cauliflowers, 
 lettuce, green peas, asparagus-tops, etc. A very 
 small bunch of parsley and a little chervil, and 
 three or four leaves of sorrel finely-shredded may 
 be added if liked. Half a pound of mixed vege- 
 tables will be sufficient for a quart of stock. 
 With small vegetable-scoops cut the vegetables 
 into fancy shapes of about the same size, or into 
 thin shreds about an inch long. Throw these 
 into boiling water, and let them remain for a 
 minute or two. Drain them, and put them into 
 another saucepan with as much boiling clear 
 stock (see Clear Soup) as is required. Let 
 the soup boil gently till the vegetables are 
 done enough. Taste in order to ascertain 
 whether further seasoning is required, and 
 serve very hot. In boiling the vegetables, it 
 should be remembered that some will need to 
 boil longer than others, and therefore they must 
 not all be put in together. Time, altogether, 
 about an hour and a half. Sufficient, a quart 
 of soup for five or six persons. 
 
 SPRING SOUP, EARLY. 
 
 Take a knuckle of veal chopped in pieces, a 
 quarter of a pound of lean ham, a quart of 
 whole white peas, two or three turnips, a leek, 
 and a little celery. Cut these into small pieces, 
 and put to them four quarts of soft water. Boil 
 till the meat has parted with all its juices and 
 the peas have become soft. Then take out the 
 meat and vegetables, and pulp the peas through 
 a sieve. Season with pepper and salt to taste. 
 Take a bunch of asparagus cut small to re- 
 semble green peas, the hearts of two or three 
 cabbage-lettuces, and some green mint chopped 
 fine. Stew these in the soup till the vegetables 
 become tender, taking care to keep them of a 
 good colour and not to permit them to remain 
 too long upon the fire. Should the soup prove 
 too thick, put to it some good broth, and if too 
 thin, add a little flour and water. Should it 
 jiot appear sufficiently green, pound a handful 
 of spinach, and put the juice, when properly 
 strained, into the soup, but it must not be 
 boiled, for that would destroy the green colour 
 of the spinach. Observe that when asparagus 
 is meant to resemble green peas, care must be 
 taken not to subject it to too much heat, it 
 being a vegetable that soon becomes soft and 
 loses its colour. A considerable degree of at- 
 tention is required on the part of the cook, in 
 regard to the management of the asparagus. 
 
 SPRING SOUP (M. Ude's recipe). 
 
 Take carrots, turnips, heads of celery, and 
 small onions cut into the shape of olives ; blanch 
 them in winter, but in summer fry them with 
 a little butter, and put them to jboil in clear 
 broth with a little sugar. Put the soup in the 
 corner of the stove to skim away all the butter. 
 Have ready the ^een tops of asparagus, and 
 French beans cut into lozenges which have been 
 boiled separately in water very green ; put them 
 into the soup when you send it up, with slices 
 of crust of bread cut the size of a penny and 
 soaked separately in a little broth ; if you have 
 any pei:s, you may put in some likewise to boil 
 with the soup. 
 
 SPRING SOUP OF EARLY CABBAGES. 
 
 Take the hearts of two white spring cabbages 
 well washed, place them for a few minutes in 
 boiling water ; take out the cabbages, put them 
 into cold water, drain them, cut them into 
 quarters and remove the stalks, tie each quarter 
 with a piece of thread, put them in some savourj 
 stock, simmer till done enough, lay them in a 
 tureen, and pour the aoup over them. 
 
 SPRING SOUP, THICK. 
 
 Soak half a pint of green split peas, then boil 
 them till tender in as much stock, made from 
 bones, as will cover them, and with them two 
 young carrots and two turnips, five or six spring 
 onions, a small bunch of parsley, a sprig of 
 thyme, a small leek, and a few outer sticks of 
 celery, if these can be had. When the peas 
 and vegetables are quite tender, rub them 
 through a sieve. Add additional stock to make 
 the puree as thick as custard; and if it is not 
 a good colour, add spinach-juice to make it 
 green (see Spinach, Gbeen, etc.). Cut a small 
 bunch of asparagus-tops into the shape of peas. 
 Boil these separately in a little water with the 
 heart of a finely-shredded young cabbage, and 
 three or four leaves of mint. Be careful to keep 
 these vegetables a good colour. A few minutes 
 before the soup is to be served throw them into 
 it. If they can be procured, freshly-picked 
 peas can be used instead of the dried split peas. 
 Time to boil the soup, one and a half to two 
 hours. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 SPROUTS, BRUSSELS. ^ 
 
 (See Bettssels Sprouts.) 
 
 SPRUCE BEER. 
 
 Dissolve sixteen pounds of treacle in eight 
 gallons of water. Strain the liquor into a cask, 
 and add eight gallons of cold wSter and six 
 table-spoonfuls of the essence of. spruce. Keep 
 in a warm place, and when the liquor is new- 
 milk-warm, stir briskly into it half a pint of 
 good fresh yeast. Leave it for a day or two 
 until fermentation ceases, then bung it up 
 closely. The following day it may be bottled, 
 and can be used in a week. Sometimes the beer 
 is flavoured by boiling for this quantity a 
 tea-cupful of bruised ginger, , a tea-spoonful 
 of allspice, and three ounces of hops in 
 a small quantity of the liquor, and adding this 
 to the rest. When the outer sprigs of the 
 spruce fir can be obtained, they may be boiled 
 for a few minutes in a little of the liquor, and 
 this decoction may be used instead of the 
 essence. A pound of the sprigs will be equiva- 
 lent to a pound and a half of the essence. 
 
 SPRUCE BEER (another way). 
 
 This is made by adding the essence of spruce 
 to water in which sugar or treacle has been 
 dissolved in the proportion of about four ounces 
 of essence of spruce to ten pounds of sugar, 
 or three quarts of treacle, and ten or eleven 
 gallons of water, and with about half a pint of 
 yeast. For flavouring, various spices are added. 
 " A similar beverage," says a writer in " Cham- 
 bers' Encyclopaedia," " is made largely in the 
 north of Europe from the buds of the Norway 
 spruce, and is known as Black Beer, that of 
 Danzig being the most famous. The antiscor- 
 butic beer of the Eussian army pharmacopoeia 
 
SPR 
 
 865 
 
 STE 
 
 ia made by mixing spruce tops and fresh horse- 
 radish-root with common beer, ginger and 
 Calamus aromaticus being added for flavouring, 
 and, after fermentation, a little cream of tartar, 
 tincture of mustard, and proof spirit." 
 
 SPRUCE, ESSENCE OF. 
 
 Essence of spruce is obtained by boiling the 
 green tops of the black spruce in water, and 
 then concentrating the decoction by another 
 boiling without the spruce-tops. The young 
 shoots of this fir, like most others of its family, 
 are coated with a resinous exudation, which is 
 dissolved in the water. 
 
 SQUAB PIE. 
 
 This is a favourite popular dish in the West 
 of England. It is generally made of mutton, 
 though in the Midland counties beef and fat 
 bacon are sometimes used. Take a deep dish, 
 and fill it with layers of mutton chops, apples 
 cut as for other pies, and finely-shredded onions. 
 Season the layers with pepper and salt, and 
 sweeten the apples with sugar. Cover the pie 
 with a thick crust, and bake in a well-heated 
 oven. Time to bake, two to three hours, 
 according to size. 
 
 SQUAB PIE (another way). 
 
 (See Dbvonshibe Squab Pie.) 
 SQUEAK, BUBBLE AND. 
 
 (See Bubble and Squeak.) 
 
 STAFFORDSHIRE SYLLABUB. 
 
 Put a pint of cider into a bowl with a glassful 
 of brandy, four table-spoonfuls of sugar, and 
 half a grated nutmeg. Fill the bowl witli 
 frothed new milk, or with milk heated till it is 
 new-milk-warm. Pour this into the syllabub 
 from a teapot held high above it. 
 
 STALE BREAD. 
 
 Stale bread will taste comparatively fresh and 
 new if it be put into a cool oven till it is heated 
 gently through. It will take about an hour. 
 Or it may be cut into slices and toasted in front 
 of the fire. 
 
 STALE CAKE. 
 
 If a sweet cake becomes stale, it may be 
 freshened by the following process. Put it 
 into a box with a closely-fitting lid, place this 
 before the fire, but not so near as to scorch the 
 wood of the box, and turn it round occasionally. 
 If the cake is large, cut it into thin slices before 
 heating it. It will be ready for use in about 
 an hour. 
 
 STAR-GAZY PIE (a favourite Cornish dish). 
 
 ITiis pie ia thus named because the heads of 
 the fish are usually placed mouth uppermost in 
 the centre of the lid of the crust, as pigeon's 
 legs are in a pigeon pie, and therefore the fish 
 are supposed to be gazing at the sky or the 
 stars. Take as many fresh herrings or mackerel 
 as will fill a moderate-sized dish. Scale, empty, 
 and open them, and remove the bones. Lay the 
 fish flat on the table, season the inside of each 
 with salt, cayenne, and chopped parsley, and roll 
 them up neatly. Butter the pie - dish, and 
 sprinkle upon it a thick layer of finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs, lay in some of the fish, and fill the 
 dish with alternate layers of fish and bread- 
 crumbs. Cover the contents of the pie with a few 
 3d 
 
 slices of fat bacon or the fat of a cooked ham, 
 and pour over all six eggs beaten up with two 
 table-spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, or, if pre- 
 ferred, one-eighth of a pint of cream. Cover 
 the dish with a good crust, and bake the pie in 
 a well-heated oven. Arrange the heads of the 
 fish in the centre of the pastry; when the pie 
 is baked put a piece of parsley into the mouth 
 of each fish, and serve. Time, one hour trf an 
 hour and a half. 
 STEAMING. 
 
 This is a process of cookery which is particu- 
 larly adapted to very delicate preparations. It 
 is sometimes carried on upon a large scale, and 
 then an apparatus for the special purpose is pro- 
 vided. In ordinary kitchens, and for every-day 
 dishes, a kitchen steamer will be all that is 
 required. The article of food which is to be 
 steamed should be prepared as for hailing. It 
 should then be placed in a steamer, which has 
 a closely-fitting lid, over a saucepan full of boil- 
 ing water, and this water should be kept boiling, 
 and should be replenished as it boils away. 
 When any delicate preparation is to be steamed, 
 the cook should on no account boil anything 
 strong and highly flavoured in the vessel under 
 it. For instance, liquor containing vegetables 
 must not be boiled under a pudding, or the 
 flavour of the latter will be entirely spoilt. If 
 a proper steamer should not be at hand, a sub- 
 stitute may be improvised for steaming pud- 
 dings, etc., as follows. Turn a plate upside 
 down in a saucepan, and surround it with about 
 three inches of fast-boiling water. Place on 
 the plate the mould containing the pudding, 
 cover the saucepan closely, and keep the water 
 gently boiling round it. Lay a round of oiled 
 paper on the top of the mould. 
 
 STERLET. 
 
 The sterlet is a much-esteemed fresh-water 
 fish, which is found chiefly in Russian rivers. 
 It somewhat resembles a sturgeofi, although 
 much smaller in size. It should be very fresh 
 when it is to be cooked. There is a gristle 
 which extends from the head to the telly, and 
 holds the roe ; this should be cut or taken out 
 before cooking, as it causes the fish to curl up, 
 and the roe, which is highly esteemed, may bf 
 cooked separately. The fish may be cooked in 
 the following manner. Cover the sterlet with 
 a well-buttered paper, and place it in a fish- 
 kettle with sufiicient white wine, or cider, or 
 champagne, to half cover it. Put on the fire to 
 simmer gently until tender. Take it out ; add 
 a little Espagnole sauce to the liquor, and let 
 it reduce. Garnish the fish with olives, truffles, 
 foie gras, etc., serve the sauce in a tureen, and 
 quarters of lemons on a separate plate. Sterlet 
 may also be cooked in white wine flavoured with 
 cucumber rind, and dished up with sliced 
 cucumber as a garnish; the sauce being made 
 from the liquor in which the fish is cooked. 
 Cost, uncertain. 
 STEWING. 
 
 This is a mode of cookery much favoured by 
 French cooks. It is wholesome and excellent, 
 as well as most economical, not only on account 
 of the small quantity of fuel which is required 
 to keep up the gentle simmering, which alone 
 is needed, but also because food cooked in this 
 
STE 
 
 866 
 
 STO 
 
 way, even if coarse and hard in itself, may often 
 be rendered tender, delicious, and palatable. 
 Inexperienced cooks too often confound stewing 
 with boiling, and thus they convert meat or 
 poultry that would be excellent and delicate if 
 properly dressed into something dry, hard, and 
 indigestible. It should be understood that when 
 we speak of stewing anything we simply mean 
 simmering it gently in a saucepan which has a 
 closely-fitting lid, over a gentle fire. Stewing is 
 best done over a stove. At times when the old- 
 fashioned kitchen range is in use, however, the 
 cook should place her stewpan on a trivet high 
 above the fire, and watch it constantly, in order 
 that she may move it nearer to the flame, or 
 farther from it, as occasion requires. The 
 ebullition, though very gentle, should be con- 
 tinuous. Sometimes meat to be stewed is put 
 into a jar with a closely-fitting lid, and this is 
 placed in a saucepan of fast-boiling water. Then 
 the gravy extracted is really the juice of the 
 meat. ITie greatest cleanliness should be ob-. 
 served in all vessels which are to be used for 
 stewing. Enamelled saucepans are excellent, 
 because they can be so easily and thoroughly 
 cleansed. Well-tinned copper ones are, how- 
 ever, the best for the purpose, though well- 
 tinned iron ones will answer for ordinary 
 cookery. The cook, however, should be par- 
 ticularly careful that the tinning of copper 
 vessels is in good condition, for if it is at all 
 worn away, the preparation stewed in the vessel 
 may become poisonous, and most lamentable 
 consequences may ensue. 
 STEWING, MR. BUCKMASTER ON. 
 
 Stewing is a gradual simmering. It may be 
 done in a saucepan over the fire, or in a stone 
 jar which will stand the fire, with a lid fitting 
 steam-tight. The common red jar is not to be 
 recommended ; it does not stand the heat, and 
 the glaze, which is a composition of lead, often 
 gives way in the presence of salt. Stone jars 
 are preferable to metal saucepans; they can be 
 easily cleaned, and they retain the heat better. 
 For stewing, select lean meat, free from blood. 
 The quantity of water should be about a quart 
 to a pound of meat; but this liquor will be 
 very rich, and it can easily be reduced, it neces- 
 sary, with warm water. Add about a tea-spoon- 
 ful of salt to a quart of water — I think salt is 
 best added towards the end of the cooking, as 
 the tendency is to harden the meat. Peas when 
 boiled with salt pork will remain hard through- 
 out the cooking. Bring the water gradually to 
 the boil, remove all the scum, and let the 
 contents simmer till the flavour of the meat is 
 absorbed in the liquor. ' Remove all the fat, 
 which can be eaten with bread, or used for 
 puddings or frying. All and every kind of meat 
 will do for a stew. They may be used together 
 or separately, according to taste or convenience. 
 The better the meat, the better the stew ; but 
 by careful stewing the coarsest and roughest 
 parts will become soft, tender, and easily 
 digested, which would not be possible by any 
 other method of cooking. All the gristly parts. 
 — the feet, shanksj knuckles — should be stewed. 
 There is no other way of eooking these parts to 
 advantage. They require time, and this is often 
 the difficulty and objection ; but what is there 
 to prevent a woman, when the family are all 
 
 sitting round the fire in the evening, thinking 
 about to-morrow's dinner? The fire which 
 warms the children will also cook their dinner. 
 The great vice of most women, not only among 
 the poor, but among the middle classes, is that 
 they never think of cooking till they feel 
 hungry. Trimmings of all kinds of meat can 
 sometimes be purchased cheaply. A woman 
 who has but little to spend should watch her 
 opportunities. Sheep's feet, the shank-bones 
 of legs of mutton, and pieces of bone and gristle, 
 are often thrown away as useless. We used 
 formerly to send ox tails to the tan-yard, and 
 even now much goes there which could be 
 turned into good food. Twopence or three- 
 pence may be well spent in the purchase of bones 
 — although containing little meat, they contain 
 30 per cent, of gelatine, and may be made to 
 yield excellent food; T^rge bones should be 
 broken into small pieces, and allowed to sim- 
 mer till every piece of bone is white and dry. 
 I have said nothing about flavouring or thicken-, 
 ing, or adding vegetables. As a rule, all vege- 
 tables except potatoes may be cut into slices 
 and cooked in the stew; or, if preferred, they 
 may be cooked separately, and added after- 
 wards. Carrots, turnips, parsnips, swedes, cab- 
 bages, leeks, onions, celery, beetroot, vegetable- 
 marrow — any or all of these may be used in a 
 stew. 
 STOCK. 
 
 Stock is the basis of all meat sauces, soups, 
 and purees. It is really the juice of meat ex- 
 tracted by long and gentle simmering, and in 
 making it, it should be remembered that the 
 object to be aimed at is to draw the goodness 
 out of the materials into the liquor. It may 
 be prepared in various ways, richly and expen- 
 sively, or economically, and recipes for all modes 
 are given in this work. All general stock, or 
 stock which is to be used for miscellaneous pur-- 
 poses, should be simply made, that is, all 
 flavouring ingredients should be omitted en- 
 tirely until its use is decided upon. The stock 
 will then keep longer than it would do if vege- 
 tables, herbs, and spices, were boiled in it, 
 besides which the flavouring can be adapted to 
 any special purpose. To ensure its. keeping, stock 
 should be boiled and skimmed every day in 
 summer, and every other day in winter. The 
 pan and the lid used in making it should be 
 scrupulously clean. A tinned iron pan is the 
 best for the purpose. Those who need to prac- 
 tise economy will do well to procure a digester, 
 which is a kind of stock-pot made with the 
 object of retaining the goodness of the materials, 
 and preventing its. escape in steam. When 
 ready, stock should be poured into an earthen- 
 ware pan, and left uncovered until it is cold. 
 It should on no account be allowed to cool in 
 a metal pan. Before being used, every particle 
 of fat which has settled on the surface should 
 be removed, and the liquor should be poured 
 off free from sediment. A few years ago it was 
 customary for cooks to make stock with fresh 
 meat only, the rule being a pound of meat to a 
 pint of stock. Altered prices have necessitated 
 the adoption of more economical methods, and 
 now excellent stock is constantly made with the 
 bones and trimmings of meat and poultry, with 
 the addition or not of a little fresh meat, or 
 
STO 
 
 867 
 
 STO 
 
 Bovril. In a house where meat is regularly 
 used, a good cook will never be without a little 
 stock. Broken remnants of all kinds will find 
 their way to the stock-pot, and will not be 
 thrown away until, by gentle stewing, they have 
 been made to yield to the utmost whatever of 
 flavour and of goodness they possessed. When 
 fresh meat is used it is better for being freshly 
 killed. The liquor in which fresh meat has been 
 boiled should always be used as stock. (Sen 
 Principles op Cookery, p. xxvii.) 
 
 STOCK, BROWNING FOR. 
 
 There are various ways of browning stock. The 
 best of all is to let it boil to a glaze when 
 making it, and then to let it colour itself over 
 the fire. Stock made from bones cannot be thus 
 coloured, and it is therefore necessary to impart 
 a brown look to it by other means. The ad- 
 dition of Bovril answers the purpose slightly, 
 but not always sufficiently. Burnt onions and 
 colouring-balls may be bought, which are manu- 
 factured expressly for this end, but they often 
 impart an unpleasant flavour to the soup. 
 Brown thickening may be used when it is wished 
 that the. stock should be thickened as well as 
 browned, though it must be remembered that 
 after it is added the stock must simmer by the 
 side of the fire, that it may throw up the fat, 
 which should be removed. Liquid browning, 
 which can be bottled and used as required, may 
 be made as follows. Put half a pound of 
 moist sugar into a stewpan, and let it remain 
 over a gentle fire till it is melted. Keep stir- 
 ring it with a wooden spoon till it is almost 
 black, then pour upon it a pint of water, and 
 let it remain until dissolved. Three or four 
 drops will colour a pint of stock. 
 STOCK, CLARIFYING. 
 
 When from some accident the stock is not as 
 clear and bright as it should be, proceed as 
 follows. For a quart of stock whisk the white 
 of an egg. with a quarter of a pint of water. 
 Stir this briskly into the stock when it is just 
 warm, let it boil, and carefully remove the 
 scum as it rises. Draw it back, and keep it boil- 
 ing gently for half an hour, continuing to skim 
 it when possible. Let it stand for a quarter of 
 an hour to settle, and strain it through a jelly- 
 bag. If three or four ounces of lean meat are 
 minced and pounded to pulp, and mixed with 
 the white of egg before it is put in, the stock 
 will be enriched as well as cleared. 
 
 STOCK-FISH. 
 
 This is the commercial term used to denote 
 salted and dried cod and other fish of the same 
 family, particularly hake, ling, and torsk. The 
 fish is cured as soon as possible after being 
 caught. It is first split up from head to tail, 
 and thoroughly cleaned by plentiful washings 
 with salt water; a piece of the backbone is then 
 cut away, and after the superfluous water has 
 been drained off, the fish are laid in long vats, 
 covered with salt, and kept down by means of 
 heavy weights. , After a time they are taken out, 
 washed and brushed, and laid out, exposed to 
 the action of sun and air, on rocks or on a 
 sandy beach. They are afterwards piled up into 
 little heaps, and when they have acquired a 
 fine whitish appearance, known as the Uoom, 
 they are considered ready for the market. The 
 
 quantity of stock-fish cured on the southern 
 coasts of Britain is inconsiderable, but it is 
 otherwise in the north. The cod, ling, and 
 hake fisheries of Scotland rank next in import- 
 ance to its herring fishery. 
 STOCK FOR ASPIC JELLY, ECONOMICAL. 
 
 Put a pint of stock into a saucepan. Add 
 two ounces of gelatine, a bay-leaf, a small sprig 
 of thyine, three cloves, three shallots, and a 
 quarter of a blade of mace, and stir the liquor 
 over the fire till the gelatine is dissolved. Pour 
 it out, and let it become almost cold. Whisk 
 the white of an egg with a quarter of a pint of 
 water. Add the crushed shell of the egg, and 
 a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar. Eetiirn the 
 stock to the saucepan, and stir the egg mix- 
 ture briskly into it over the fire till it boils. 
 Let it boil for ten minutes and then settle for 
 ten minutes. Strain through a jelly-bag into a 
 large shallow dish, and when cold and stiff the 
 jelly will be fit for use. Time, altogether, about 
 an hour. 
 STOCK FOR JELLY. 
 
 (See CaI/P's Foot Stock fob Jelly.) 
 
 STOCK FREED FROM FAT. 
 
 Let the stock get cold, then carefully take from 
 it the coating of fat which lies on the top. If 
 it is still greasy, put it into a saucepan, simmer 
 gently by the side of the fire, and carefully 
 skim off the fat as it rises until no more 
 appears. If after it is put in the tureen bubbles 
 of fat appear on the surface, remove as much 
 as possible by skimming, and take off what re- 
 mains by laying a piece of blotting-paper, or, 
 failing this, of common brown paper, lightly on 
 the top, so that the grease may adhere to it. 
 
 STOCK, GAME. 
 
 Take the remains of roast game of any kind, 
 and break them up into small pieces. Butter a 
 saucepan, and line the bottom of it with thin 
 slices of lean ham. Place the pieces of game 
 upon these, almost cover them with stock made 
 from bones _or, failing this, with water, and boil 
 the liquor quickly over a brisk fire till it is re- 
 duced to glaze. '.Draw it. back a little, and let 
 it colour; then add as much additional stock 
 as it will bear, together with carrots, turnips, 
 onions, celery, cloves, and salt, as required. Let 
 it simmer gently until it is done enough, and 
 strain it off for use. The remains of game will 
 make excellent stock, and it would be very ex- 
 travagant to use game for this purpose without 
 first taking off the best of the meat. When, 
 however, a bird is too old and tough to be 
 dressed in the ordinary way, it.may_be^placed 
 in the st.ock-pot, but its flavour will be best 
 brought out if it is partially roasted before being 
 stewed. 
 STOCK, GENERAL. 
 
 Take one pound of shin of beef, cut it into 
 pieces the size of a walnut, and put these into 
 a delicately-clean stewpan with two-pennyworth 
 of bones broken up small and five pints of cold 
 spring-water. If there are trimrnings of meat 
 or poultry in the house they may be thrown into 
 the pot, as also a little bacon-rind which hag 
 been first scalded and scraped.- Bring the coup 
 tents of the pan slowly to the boil, carefully 
 remove the scum as it rises, and throw in a 
 
STO 
 
 868 
 
 STO 
 
 spoonful of cold water now and then to aesist it 
 in doing so. An onion with a clove stuck into 
 it, a turnip, a carrot, two leeks, a few outer 
 sticks of celery, a salt-spoonful of whole pep- 
 per, and a little salt may be added if liked. 
 Draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and 
 let its contents simmer very gently. Keep the 
 saucepan closely covered, excepting when it is 
 necessary to take off the lid for the purpose of 
 skimming. Strain the soup into an earthen- 
 ware pan, and remove the fat when it forms on 
 the surface. Time to simmer the stock, four 
 hours. FfShaWe cost. Is. 4d. Sufficient for two 
 quarts of' stock. 
 
 STOCK MADE FROM BONES. 
 
 Take the bones of a leg of mutton or of a 
 piece of beef weighing seven or eight pounds 
 before cooking, or if these are not at hand, 
 take two-pennyworth of fresh bones. Break 
 them up into small pieces, and put them into 
 a saucepan with three quarts of cold water. 
 Bring this gently to the boil, and carefully 
 remove the scum as it rises. Draw the sauce- 
 pan to the side, and let the liquor sim- 
 mer gently for five or six hours. Pour it into 
 an earthenware jar, and the next day remove 
 the fat from the top, and pour the broth 
 back 'free from sediment. Put with it a large 
 carrot, a handful of fresh parsley, a large onion 
 into which two or three cloves have been stuck, 
 a few outer sticks of celery, or about as much 
 celeiy-seed as will lie on a threepenny-piece, a 
 turnip, if young, a couple of leeks, if they can 
 be obtained, a lump of sugar, and a little salt 
 and cayenne. Simmer the soup again, and if 
 necessary add cold water, a little at a time, to 
 keep up the quantity to two quarts. Simmer 
 all gently together an hour and a half longer; 
 strain the liquor off again, and stir in with it a 
 good tea-spoonful of Bovril. If it is necessary 
 to clarify the stock, do not put in the Bovril 
 until the stock has been made clear. If expe- 
 dition is desired, the vegetables and the bones 
 may be boiled altogether. Time, five hours the 
 first day, one hour and a half the next. Sufficient 
 for two quarts of stock. 
 
 STOCK MADE FROM COW-HEEL. 
 
 Excellent stock for soup may be made by boil- 
 ing a cow-heel and two pounds of shin of beef 
 in water. The meat may be converted into 
 mock potted head — a relishing dish for break- 
 fast or supper. Cleanse a cow-heel, and put it 
 into a stewpan with two pounds of shin of beef, 
 not cut up, and three quarts of water. Add a 
 large carrot, a turnip, an onion stuck with three 
 cloves, sis peppercorns, six allspice, a bunch of 
 herbs, a blade of mace, and a slice of lemon- 
 rind. Bring the liquor slowly to the boil, and 
 simmer gently two hours. If the meat is to be 
 made into brawn, take the beef out at this 
 point, and let the heel simmer alone until the 
 stock is sufficiently strong. Carefully remove 
 the scum as it rises, and when the stock is done, 
 pour it into an earthenware pan, and use as 
 required. To make the mock potted head, cut 
 both the beef and the cow-heel into small 
 pieces. Soak half a psicket of gelatine in cold 
 etock for twelity minutes; dissolve it in a pint 
 of boiling stock, add the pieces of meat, and 
 pour the whole into an oiled mould to remain 
 
 until cold. Potted head made in this way may 
 be garnished according to taste. One or two 
 hard-boiled eggs, some slices of beetroot, and a 
 little chopped parsley, if placed tastefully in 
 the jelly at the bottom of the mould, will 
 greatly improve its appearance. Time, five or 
 six hours to boil the cow-heel. Probable cost, 
 2s. 6d. Sufficient for two quarts of stock and 
 one shape of brawn. 
 
 STOCK, MEAT. 
 
 Meat from which stock has been made, if sim- 
 mered gently till it is tender only, and not so 
 long as to reduce it to rags, may be served as 
 a stew, with part of the stock thickened for 
 gravy. Or good potted meat may be made of 
 it (see Beef, Potted). 
 
 STOCK-POT. 
 
 The best stock-pots are those made of well- 
 tinned iron or copper, as they are most easily 
 cleaned, and in making stock cleanliness is of 
 the utmost importance. Into the stock-pot 
 should be thrown all the bones and trimmings 
 of meat and poultry, either dressed or undressed. 
 In an economically - conducted household 
 nothing will be thrown away until all the good- 
 ness has been extracted from it. 
 
 STOCK, QUICKLY MADE. 
 
 Take an onion, peel it, split it in halves, and 
 stick two cloves into it; put it into a saucepan 
 with a pint and a half of water, a bunch of 
 fresh green parsley-leaves, a tea-spoonful of 
 gelatine, and a little salt and cayenne. A stick 
 or two of celery or a few celery-seeds, or a very 
 small pinch of dried tarragon may be added, if 
 they are at hand, as they will greatly assist the 
 flavour of the stock. Boil the liquor till the 
 gelatine is dissolved, strain it into a bowl, and 
 press the onion and parsley so as to get as much 
 of the goodness out of them as possible. If the 
 gelatine is good, the stock will be bright and 
 clear. Stir into it until dissolved a tea-spoonful 
 of Bovril, and it will be ready for use. It 
 may be served as it is, as clear soup, or a 
 little macaroni or vermicelli may be added to it, 
 though they should be boiled separately, or the 
 soup will not be clear; or a few vegetables cut 
 as for Julienne soup may be put in (see Veoe- 
 TABLES, Deibd), ot a few fresh tarragon-leaves 
 may be finely shredded and thrown in. Probable 
 cost, plain, 3d. Sufficient for three or four per- 
 sons. 
 
 STOCK, RICH AND STRONG. 
 
 Take two pounds of the shin of beef and two 
 pounds of knuckle of veal; cut the meat into 
 small pieces, and break up the bones. Butter 
 a saucepan, line it with slices of lean ham or 
 bacon, lay upon these the beef and veal ; add the 
 bones and any trimmings of ineat or poultry 
 that may be at hand. An. old hen or the car- 
 case of a rabbit or roasted chicken will he 
 valuable additions. Pour in a pint of water, 
 cover the saucepan, and boil it quickly, stirring 
 it frequently till it is reduced to glaze. Let 
 this brown gently or not, as required, pour in 
 two quarts of cold water, and when this boils 
 add a large onion stuck with two cloves, a few- 
 sticks of celery, a large carrot, a young turnip, 
 half a blade of mace, a bunch of savoury herbs, 
 a few peppercorns, and a little salt. Remove the 
 
STO 
 
 STO 
 
 scum carefully as it rises, and add a spoonful 
 of cold water occasionally to assist it in doing 
 80 ; simmer the stock gently for four hours ; 
 strain it into an earthenware pan, and, when it 
 is quite cold, carefully remove the fat from the 
 top. Time to simmer the stock, three to four 
 hours. 
 
 STOCK, SECOND. 
 
 Meat and vegetables boiled a second time 
 with fresh liquor, etc., is " second stock." It 
 may be boiled down again to make glaze 
 or portable soup, which will be of great 
 use, either to enrich soups or sauces, or to 
 improve the appearance of various joints (see 
 Glazb). If liked, half the original quantity of 
 vegetables and seasoning may be added to the 
 liquor. To make it, boil the stock very gently 
 for five or six hours. Strain it through a hair 
 sieve into an earthenware pan. When it is cold, 
 carefully remove the fat from the top, and pour 
 the gravy off gently, not to disturb the settlings, 
 into a well-tinned saucepan. Keep this un- 
 covered over a brisk fire, skim the liquor when 
 necessary, and boil it quickly till it begins to 
 thicken. Eeduce the heat of the fire, and boil 
 the stock gently till it looks like thin treacle. 
 Be very careful that it does not burn, and when 
 it has boiled until a little taken out in ^ spoon 
 vrill when cold set into a stiff jelly, strain it 
 into small jars, perfectly dried, to the thickness 
 of an inch and a half, and let it remain in a 
 cool place till wanted. If properly made, it 
 will keep six months. If, after a few days, it 
 does not appear sufficiently hard, put the jar 
 containing it into a large saucepan of boiling 
 water, and keep this water boiling rapidly round 
 it until the glaze has evaporated sufficiently. 
 It must not be put into the saucepan again, as 
 it will be in great danger of burning or of 
 acquiring an unpleasant flavour. Time, two 
 days to make the glaze. 
 
 STOCK, SUPERIOR CLEAR BROWN, FOR SOUPS 
 AND SAUCES, MADE FROM FRESH MEAT. 
 
 Take three pounds and a half of the shin of 
 beef or knuckle of veal and a quarter of a 
 pound of lean ham. Cut the meat into pieces 
 tJie size of an egg, and break the bones into 
 small pieces. Butter the bottom of the stewpan, 
 lay in it the ham, then the veal, and add the 
 bones and any trimmings of meat or poultry 
 that may be at hand. Pour in as much water 
 as will cover the meat. Cover the pan, put it 
 on a brisk fire, and boil its contents quickly, 
 stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon till 
 the bottom of the pan is covered with a thick 
 white glaze. Throw some cinders on the fire to 
 lower the temperature, and let the pan remain 
 on it until the glaze becomes a bright brown 
 colour without being at all burnt. Pour in four 
 quarts of cold stock or water, bring the liquor 
 to the point of boiling, then draw it to the side, 
 and simmer gently, skimming with scrupulous 
 care for two hours if veal is used, and for four 
 hours if beef is used. Strain through a fine 
 sieve into an earthenware pan, and when the 
 stock is cold remove the grease. If flavouring is 
 wanted, a turnip, a carrot, two onions, each 
 with one clove stuck in it, half a leek, a few 
 sticks of celery, a bay-leaf, a bunch of parsley, 
 and a sprig of thyme, may be stewed in the 
 
 liquor. Add pepper and salt as required ; the 
 quantity of salt needed will depend upon the 
 quality of the ham. Probable cost, 3s. 
 
 STOCK, TO KEEP GOOD. 
 
 In cold weather stock will keep for several 
 days. In hot weather it should be boiled every 
 day. It should always be poured into an 
 earthenware bowl, and when nearly cold, put 
 into a cool larder. It should on no account be 
 allowed to remain in the stewpan ^11 night. 
 
 STOCK, WHITE, FOR WHITE SOUPS AND 
 SAUCES. '' 
 
 Take three pounds of the kipeJcleoOf veal and 
 a quarter of a pound of lean 'Eani. Cut the 
 meat into small pi-eces, break up the bones, and 
 add any trimmings of meat or poultry that may 
 be at hand, with a little pepper and a small 
 pinch of salt. The carcase of a fowl or rabbit 
 will be a valuable addition. Put the meat into 
 the stewpan, and pour upon it four quarts of 
 cold water. Bring the liquor to the boil, draw 
 it to the side, skim carefully, and let it simmer 
 gently for three hours. Strain it into an earthen- 
 ware pan till wanted. If liked, a carrot, a 
 turnip, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a small 
 piece of mace may be added. 
 
 STOCK, WITH FRIED BREAD. 
 
 Cut a slice of stale crumb of bread into dice; 
 moisten these with stock, put a slice of dripping 
 on them, and fry over a slow fire till they are 
 brown and crisp. Lay them in a dish, and place 
 upon them one or two slices of the crumb of 
 bread which have been ^soaked in stock and 
 drained. Serve nicely-flavoured stock in a 
 tureen with the bread thus prepared. This dish 
 is one which is specially suited for children and 
 invalids. 
 STONE CREAM. 
 
 Put a little apricot, plum, or cherry jam into 
 a glass dish. Grate upon it the rind of a lemon, 
 and add the strained juice. Pour over it as 
 much liquid blancmange nearly cold as will 
 cover it. Serve the cream when stiff and cold, 
 and ornament the surface with a little pink 
 sugar, knobs of red currant jelly, or strips of pre- 
 served fruit, or blanched almonds. The blanc- 
 mange may be made with isinglass, gelatine, or 
 fine arrowroot. 
 STONE-FRUIT, WHOLESOMENESS OF. 
 
 Stone-fruit, generally speaking, is less di- 
 gestible when eaten raw than the other descrip- 
 tions of fruit ; to healthy persons, however, 
 when ripe, and consumed in moderation, it is 
 not injurious. Plums have acquired a charac- 
 ter for causing disorder and diarrhoea which they 
 scarcely deserve. Undoubtedly with some per- 
 sons they disagree, and indeed, with all, if they 
 are eaten immoderately or in bad condition ; but 
 that they, or fruits generally, are the cause of 
 the regular autumnal or British cholera, is a 
 fallacy which has been established in the popular 
 mind in consequence of the season at which 
 plums are ripe, the " plum-season " being co- 
 incident with that at which people in this 
 country, who have been exposed to the effects 
 of the summer's heat, are most liable to that 
 outbreak of accumulated bile which is known aa 
 bowel complaii?*; or English, or British, or sum- 
 mer cholera. 
 
STO 
 
 870 
 
 STR 
 
 STORE-ROOMS AND STOREl^i. 
 
 A clean, -j;idy, well-arranged store-room is one 
 aign of a good methodical houeekeeper. Where 
 stores are put away anyhow, and taken out at 
 any time and in any quantity, we have good 
 grounds for supposing that disorder and ex- 
 travagance prevail. A store-room ought to be 
 large, airy, cool, and dry. Such a room is not 
 always to be had, but even if a closet has to be 
 put up with, it may be kept clean. Shelves 
 should be arranged round the walls, hooks 
 fastened to the edges of the shelves. The driest 
 and coolest part of the room should be kept for 
 jams J jellies, and pickles. All the jars should 
 be distinctly labelled at «Ae front, so that they 
 will not all need to be taken down every time 
 a particular jar is wanted. Biscuits or cakes 
 should be kept in closely-covered tin boxes ; 
 lemons should be hung in nets. Soap should 
 be bought in large quantities, and cut up into 
 convenient-sized pieces, so that it may be dry 
 before it is used. Coffee, when roasted, should 
 be kept in small quantities; if unroasted, it 
 will improve with keeping. Stores should on 
 no account be left in the papers in which they 
 were sent from the grocer's, but should be put 
 into tin canisters or earthenware jars closely 
 covered, and each jar, like the jam, should be 
 labelled. Stores should be given out regularly, 
 either daily or weekly. In order to check their 
 consumjftion, the housekeeper will do well to 
 keep in; '^he store-room a memorandum-book 
 with a pencil fastened to it, and in this book 
 she should enter the date on which all stores 
 were brought in or taken out. By means of 
 these memoranda she can compare one week's 
 outgo with another, and immediately discover 
 any extravagance. A hammer, a few nails, a 
 little gum, a ball of string, a few sheets of 
 foolscap, and a pair of scissors, should always 
 be kept in the store-room. 
 
 STORE SAUCES. 
 
 Many varieties of excellent store sauces may 
 be bought of the grocer and Italian warehouse- 
 man, and will prove of great value in colouring 
 and flavouring soups, sauces, and stews. As, 
 however, they are generally very gfcrohg, they 
 should be added to any preparation with care. 
 As they can be so easily procured, it is advis- 
 able to keep on hand a small quantity only of 
 them, for they mostly deteriorate in quality witJi 
 keeping. The bottles containing them should 
 be tightly stoppered, and kept in a dry place. 
 The store sauces most Ukely to be needed are 
 mushroom and walnut ketchup, essence of an- 
 chovies, chilli, cucumber, shallot, and tarragon 
 vinegar, and Harvey's or Worcester sauce. 
 
 STOUT. 
 
 Stout is only a stronger form of porter. It is 
 extensively brewed in London, Dublin, and else- 
 where. Good draught stout contains an ounce 
 and a half of alcohol in the pint. 
 
 STRANGER'S CAKE, OR POLLY'S CAKE. 
 
 Eub half a pound of butter or sweet dripping 
 into a pound of flour. Add a small salt-spoon- 
 ful of salt, three heaped tea-spoonfuls of bakings 
 powder, a pound of ground -rice, half a pound 
 of moist sugar, a pound of picked currants or 
 sultanas, and two ounces of candied peel. A 
 little spice may be added if approved. Mis 
 
 the dry ingredients thoroughly. Stir into the 
 cake four well-whisked eggs and a cupful of 
 milk. Bake immediately in a moderate oven. 
 ■Kime to bake, two hours and a half or more. 
 Probable cost, 28. 6d. for a cake this size. 
 
 STRASBURG GOOSE. 
 
 Tlie Strasburg goose is an animal that has to 
 submit, for the sake of the luxuries of mankind, 
 to a very peculiar operation. It is tied down 
 to a board, and put in front of a fire, which 
 appears very cruel; but it does not hinder the 
 animal from getting fat. It is fed with barley- 
 meal, and it thus takes in much more starch 
 than is necessary to maintain its heat, and the 
 consequence is, the starch is converted into fat 
 and deposited in greatest abundance in the 
 liver. The goose is then killed, the liver is 
 taken out, and these distended livers are the 
 precious morceaux contained in the p&ti de foie, 
 gras (which see). 
 STRAWBERRIES. 
 
 This delicious summer fruit is known both in 
 Europe and America. It belongs to temperate 
 and rather cold climates. It may be eaten 
 
 &T11AWBEHRY ICE CKEAM {SCO pOr/B 874). 
 
 fresh, or made into preserves. It derives its 
 name from the practice of putting straw under 
 the berries to keep them clean whilst they 
 ripen. Eipe strawberries may be kept for two 
 or three days by putting them on ice, or keep- 
 ing them in a cool dark place. When dusty, 
 or gathered in rainy weather, they sometimes 
 have to be washed for the table, but this 
 siiould only be done when absolutely necessary. 
 They should be passed quickly through clean 
 water, but not allowed to lie in it a moment. 
 
 STRAWBERRIES AND CREAM. 
 
 Procure the fruit when it is freshly gathered 
 and just ripe. If it is not to be eaten imme- 
 diately, keep it in a cool place till wanted ; but 
 the fresher it is the better. Pick the straw- 
 berries, and remove every imperfect and un- 
 sound berry. Do not wash them unless it is, 
 absolutely necessary. If, however, they are 
 dusty or not quite fresh, they may be cleansed 
 and freshened by taking them in handfuls and 
 passing them quickly through a basin of cold 
 water. They should not be allowed to remain 
 in it one instant. If the strawberries have been 
 gathered in rainy weather, it is very desirable^ 
 
STR 
 
 871 
 
 STR 
 
 that this cleansing process should be performed. 
 Strawberries are very delicious served with thick 
 cream (Devonshire cream is the best) and finely- 
 powdered sugar. These accompaniments should 
 be sent to table separately, as if the sugar is 
 put upon them, even for a short time, it will 
 draw out their juice and change their colour. 
 
 STRAWBERRIES, BOTTLED. 
 
 Gather the strawberries in dry weather when 
 they are ripe, but not over-ripe. Pick them 
 without bruising them, and put them into per- 
 fectly dry wide-mouthed bottles. Shake them 
 down, and fill the bottles with clear syrup made 
 by boiling three-quarters of a pound of refined 
 sugar with half a pint of water. Cork the 
 bottles tightly, and tie them down with string. 
 Wrap straw round them to keep them from 
 being broken, and put them into a large stew- 
 pan with cold water up to their necks. Let 
 the water be made to boil, then draw the pan 
 to the side, and let it simmer gently for 
 ten minutes. Take the pan off the fire, and 
 leave the bottles untouched till they are cold. 
 Refit the corks, tie them down again, if neces- 
 sary wax them over, and store for use. Time 
 to simmer, ten minutes. 
 
 STRAWBERRIES, BOTTLED, FOR FLAVOURING 
 PURPOSES. 
 
 Gather the fruit in dry weather, pick it from 
 the bolls, discard any bruised or unsound 
 berries, and allow for it an equal weight of 
 iinely-powdered sugar. Fill perfectly dry wide- 
 mouthed bottles with alternate layers of fruit 
 .and sugar, and shake them gently to mix them. 
 Cork the bottles closely, and cover the corks 
 with bladder which has been cleaned, dried, and 
 moistened with spirit on the side which is to be 
 next the cork. Store in a cool dry place. The 
 strawberries should be perfectly fresh when 
 they are thus preserved. 
 
 STRAWBERRIES, COMPETE OF. 
 
 Take a pint of freshly-gathered ripe straw- 
 berries. Pick them, and put them into a bowl. 
 Pour over them a little clear syrup v/hich has 
 been made by boiling a quarter of a pint of 
 water with five ounces of sugar for ten minutes. 
 Cover the bowl containing them with a plate, 
 and let them stand for an hour or more. Drain 
 off the syrup; boil it for a few minutes, skim 
 it, and strain it over the strawberries piled in 
 the centre of a compote-dish. The flavour of 
 this dish will be greatly improved if a wine- 
 glassful of red currant juice is added to the 
 syrup. When it is at hand, a glass of maras- 
 chino may also be added with advantage. For 
 a superlative dish, the syrup, after being 
 flavoured with maraschino or kirschenwasser, 
 may be set in ice till it is almost frozen, and 
 in this condition poured over the fruit. Time 
 to soak the strawberries, one hour. Probable 
 cost, strawberries, 4d. to 8d. per pound. 
 
 STRAWBERRIES, PRESERVED. 
 
 The fruit must be gathered in very dry 
 weather, when there has been no rain for at 
 least two days. Take equal, weights of loaf 
 sugar broken into pieces and picked fruit. 
 Barely cover the sugar with cold water, and 
 add a pinch of cream of tartar. Melt the sugar, 
 put it on the fire, and boil it until a little of it 
 
 which has been dropped from the end of a spoon 
 into some very cold water can be rolled into a 
 soft ball, which is not at all sticky. When the 
 sugar has reached this condition put the straw- 
 berries into it, cover the pan, and leave it for 
 an hour. Place it on a quick fire, boil it for 
 two minutes, skim it well, and it is done. 
 There is another method of preserving straw- 
 berries or raspberries which is very much 
 approved. Pick the fruit, and press it with a 
 wooden spoon through a coarse sieve. Weigh 
 it, and allow a pound of sugar to every pound 
 of pulp. Boil the sugar, and as soon as it has 
 attained the fourth degree {see Sugae Boiling) 
 mix the pulp with it. Let it stand for five 
 minutes, stir it over the fire till it boils, and it 
 is done. If liked, the sugar, instead of being 
 boiled, may be crushed to powder and incor- 
 porated with the pulp, which must then be 
 put into bottles, and boiled as in Steaw- 
 BEERiEs, Bottled. There is another mode of 
 preserving them whole, by placing them, when 
 they are freshly gathered, into glass pickle- 
 bottles, strewing their weight of sifted sugar 
 over as they are put in, and filling up the 
 bottles with either boiling-hot malaga wine or 
 boiling sweet malmsey. This is the most ex- 
 pensive, though the least troublesome. (See 
 next recipe.) 
 
 STRAWBERRIES, PRESERVED IN WINE. 
 
 Take the fruit when perfectly ripe and fresh ; 
 pick it, and put it immediately into dry wide- 
 mouthed bottles. Sprinkle amongst it four 
 ounces of powdered sugar with each pound of 
 fruit, and let the bottles be filled to the neck. 
 Pour in good sherry or Madeira to cover the 
 fruit. Cork the bottles securely, wax them 
 down, and store in a cool dry place. 
 STRAWBERRIES, PRESERVED WHOLE. 
 
 Take perfectly sound ripe strawberries which 
 have been gathered in dry weather; pick and 
 weigh them. Put them in layers on a large dish, 
 and sprinkle finely-powdered sugar between the 
 layers — a pound of sugar will be required for 
 every pound of fruit. Let them stand all night. 
 Next day put the whole gently into a clean 
 preserving-pan. Let it boil; shake the pan to 
 keep the strawberries from burninpf, and pass a 
 spoon round the edges ; but be careful not to 
 crush the fruit. Remove the scum as it rises, 
 and boil the fruit gently for a quarter of an 
 hour. Drain the juice from the berries, and boil 
 it separately for half an hour. If liked, a pint 
 of red currant juice boiled to syrup with half 
 a pound of sugar may be added for each pound 
 of strawberries, and this will greatly improve 
 the flavour of the preparation. Pour the boil- 
 ing juice upon the fruit, put both again into 
 the pan, and boil the mixture for a quarter 
 of ah hour, or till the juice will set when a 
 little is put upon a plate. Put the preserved 
 fruit into jars, cover in the usual way, and store 
 in a cool place. Strawberries preserved thus are 
 very good served in glasses, mixed with cream. 
 Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. per pound. 
 STRAWBERRIES, PRESERVED WHOLE (another 
 way). 
 
 Pick and weigh the berries, and put them in 
 layers on a dish with finely-powdered sugar in- 
 terspersed amongst them, using a pound of 
 
STR 
 
 872 
 
 STR 
 
 sugar to a pound of fruit. Leave them until the 
 next day, put them gently into a preserving- 
 pan, and when the juice is just about to boil 
 turn all into a colander, and drain off the juice. 
 Let it boil, then pour it upon the fruit, and 
 leave it until the next day. Put it again on 
 the fire, let it reach the point of boiling once 
 more, and again pour it out. Strain it, let it 
 get cold, then pour it on the fruit, and repeat 
 this process for four or five days. Put the fruit 
 into jars, cover these, and store for use. A pint 
 of red currant juice for six pounds of fruit, 
 boiled to syrup with half a pound of sugar, and 
 added to the juice during the last boiling, will 
 greatly improve the flavour of this preparation. 
 Time, five days. 
 
 STRAWBERRIES, WHOLESOMENESS OF. 
 
 The strawberry must be ranked amongst the 
 most wholesome productions of the vegetable 
 kingdom. It is recorded of Fontenelle that he 
 ascribed his longevity to them, in consequence 
 of their having regularly cooled a fever which 
 he had every spring; and that he used to say, 
 " If I can but reach the season of strawberries." 
 Boerhaave regarded their continual use as one 
 of the principal remedies in cases of obstruction 
 and viscidity, and in putrid disorders. Hoff- 
 man furnishes instances of obstinate disorders 
 cured by them, even consumption, and Linnseus 
 says that by eating plentifully of them he kept 
 himself free from gout. 
 
 STRAWBERRY ACID. 
 
 Dissolve five ounces of tartaric acid in two 
 quarts of cold spring water, and pour this 
 over twelve pounds of picked ripe strawberries 
 in an earthenware pan. Leave them until the 
 next day, then strain off the liquor without 
 bruising the fruit. Put a pound and a half of 
 powdered and sifted loaf sugar with each pint 
 of clear liquor, stir it until dissolved, and bottle 
 for use. Raspberry acid may be made in the 
 same way. 'Kme, two days. Strawberries, 4d. 
 to 8d. per pound. 
 STRAWBERRY, ALPINE. 
 
 Unlike other kinds of strawberries, the Alpine 
 strawberry has a tall stem and erect manner of 
 growth. The fruit, which is either red or white, 
 is not very large, but is produced in great 
 abundance, and is to be had long after other 
 kinds are out of season. 
 
 STRAWBERRY AND CUSTARD PUDDING. 
 
 Take four ounces of finely-grated bread- 
 crumbs. Place four table-spoonfuls of straw- 
 berry jam in a buttered pie-dish, cover this with 
 the bread-crumbs, and make some good nicely- 
 flavoured custard with a pint of milk, two 
 eggs, and a little sugar. Stir the custard over 
 the fire till it begins to thicken, pour it 
 gradually upon the bread-crumbs, and bake the 
 pudding in a moderately-heated oven. Time to 
 bake, half an hour. Probable cost. Is. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 STRAWBERRY BLANCMANGE. 
 
 Take a quart of clear stiff blancmange made 
 with isinglass or gelatine. Sweeten this, and 
 stir into it the juice which has been drawn from 
 a quart of fresh strawberries. Mix the ingre- 
 dients thoroughly,- put the blancmange into a 
 damp mould, and leave it in a cool place till 
 
 set. Turn it upon a glass dish, and serve. 
 To draw the juice from the strawberries, pick 
 them, spread them on a large flat dish, and 
 sprinkle over them about six table-spoonfuls of 
 powdered sugar. Let them stand for six or 
 eight hours, and pour away for use the syrup 
 which has flowed from them. 
 
 STRAWBERRY CARDINAL. 
 
 Pick a quart of ripe, finely-flavoured straw- 
 berries, and discard all berries that are unsound 
 or bruised. Sprinkle upon them a pound of 
 powdered and sifted sugar, and pour over them 
 half a bottle of Rhine wine. Cover closely, and 
 let them stand in a cool place for half an hour. 
 Just before they are to be served, pour over 
 them the remainder of the wine, with another 
 bottle, either of Moselle or of the same Vine. 
 Add a bottle of seltzer, and serve. If liked, the 
 liquor may be strained and bottled for use. 
 
 STRAWBERRY CHARTREUSE. 
 
 Take a charlotte mould and line it with lemon 
 jelly flavoured with any liqueur; then slice 
 some fine strawberries and cover the jelly with 
 them. Any dried fruit of another colour may 
 be used in addition if liked. Pill the centre 
 with a cream made in the following manner. 
 To each half pint of thick cream allow a quarter 
 of an ounce of gelatine, a gill of lemon jelly, 
 and a quarter of a pound of strawberries cut 
 up and sweetened a little, or soaked in a little 
 maraschino or other liqueur. The whole should 
 be mixed over ice, and then put in the centre 
 of the mould when beginning to set. Set the 
 mould on ice, and turn out when firm. This 
 may also be made by putting the cream round 
 the mould and the fruit in the centre. 
 
 STRAWBERRY CHEESECAKES. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pint of ripe, finely-fla- 
 voured strawberries, measured after the stalks 
 have been picked from them. Bruise them 
 thoroughly with a wooden spoon in a basin, and 
 mix with them a heaped table-spoonful of pow- 
 dered sugar and two well-beaten eggs. Line 
 some patty-pans with good pastry, three-parts 
 fill them with the mixture, and bake in a well- 
 heated oven. If fresh fruit cannot be had, 
 strawberry jelly may be used instead, and then 
 no sugar will be required. Time to bake, ten 
 minutes. 
 
 STRAWBERRY CORNFLOUR PUDDING. 
 
 Take three ounces of cornflour, one ounce 
 of butter, two ounces of sugar, and a pint and 
 a half of milk; mix together, put in a sauce- 
 pan, bring to the boil, and simmer for five 
 minutes, then remove and cool a little. Beat 
 in the yolks of two eggs and the white of one, 
 and put the mixture in a layer at the bottom 
 and sides of a deep buttered pie-dish. About 
 a quarter of it should be reserved. Put in the 
 centre of the pie-dish as many picked straw- 
 berries as may be necessary to fill it, and the 
 rest of the mixture over them. Beat the remain- 
 ing white of an egg with a tea-spoonful of sugar 
 and spread it over the top. Then bake the pud- 
 ding in a gentle oven for about fifteen minutes 
 until it is nicely browned. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 STRAWBERRY CREAM. 
 
 Pick the stalks from a pint of strawberries, 
 sprinkle a tea-cupful of powdered sugar over 
 
STR 
 
 873 
 
 STR 
 
 them, bruise them well with a wooden spoon, 
 and rub them through a fine hair sieve till all 
 the juice has been' taken from them. Dissolve 
 an ounce and a half of isinglass or gelatine in 
 three-quarters of a pint of new railk, add a 
 pint of thick cream and the strawberry-juice. 
 The cream should be whipped with a whisk be- 
 fore being used (see Cbeam, Whipped). Pour 
 the mixture into a damp mould and set it in a 
 cool place till stiff. A few drops of prepared 
 cochineal may be added to improve the colour. 
 If liked, the juice may be drawn from the fruit 
 over the fire or in the oven. When fresh fruit 
 cannot be obtained, half a pint 'oi strawberry 
 jam dissolved in two table-spoonfuls of water 
 and strained may be used instead. Time, five 
 minutes to simmer the cream. 
 
 STRAWBERRY CREAM ICE (a la Muscovite). 
 
 Pick the strawberries, bruise them with a 
 wooden spoon, and rub them through a fine 
 hair sieve. Take one pint of the juice thus 
 obtained, and stir into it until dissolved five 
 ounces of powdered sugar. Dissolve half an 
 ounce of gelatine in very little water, and add 
 tliis to the juice. Let the basin containing 
 the juice stand upon rough ice, and stir its 
 contents without stopping until they begin to 
 set. Whip a pint of cream, and mix it lightly 
 with the iced strawberry-juice. Turn the whole 
 into an hermetically-closing ice-mould. Put a. 
 little butter round the opening to keep out the 
 water, and place the mould in the ice-pail with 
 pounded ice and bay salt round it at least three 
 inches thick. Let it remain until the cream is 
 thoroughly frozen. When it is to be served, 
 plunge the mould for one instant into a basin of 
 hot water, turn it upside down upon a glass dish, 
 when the ice will in all probability come out in a 
 shape. If, however, it will not come out, dip it 
 quickly into hot water. Time to freeze, about 
 two hours. 
 
 STRAWBERRY FOOL. 
 
 Take a quart of picked strawberries, ripe and 
 finely flavoured ; put them into a saucepan with 
 ii quarter of a pound of white sugar; cover 
 closely, and stew them gently for ten minutes, 
 stirring the fruit now and again to keep it 
 from burning. Rub it through a fine hair sieve 
 with a wooden spoon, and when the pulp is 
 cold stir into it as much new milk as will make 
 it of the consistency of custard. Serve quite 
 cold. If cream is not to be had, and a rich 
 dish is required, the yolks of two eggs may be 
 mixed with the milk, and the custard may be 
 stirred over the fire till it is on the point of 
 boiling. Time, ten minutes to boil thfe fruit. 
 SufScient for six or seven persons. Probable 
 cost. Is., made with milk only. 
 
 STRAWBERRY FRITTERS. 
 
 Put some crushed strawberries, sweetened and 
 flavoured to taste, between two thin strips of 
 spongecake, moistened with Madeira. Coat 
 them with a batter made of flour, egg, and 
 milk, and fry them in hot lard. Dust with 
 sugar, and serve hot. 
 
 STRAWBERRY GLACES. 
 
 Take a spongecake two or three days old, and 
 cut it into squares, rounds, and diamonds. Boil 
 a pound of sugar with a pint of water to a clear 
 
 syrup. Boil and skim this, aixd keep trying 
 whether it is done enough by dropping a small 
 portion of it at a time into a basin of cold water 
 placed by the side of the stove for the purpose. 
 It the sugar snaps when dropped into the water, 
 and then remains hard, it is ready for the straw- 
 berry-juice, which should be. added in such a 
 quantity as to bring the syrup to 38°. Take 
 the syrup from the fire, let it cool, and beat it 
 with a wooden spoon till it is quite smooth. 
 Stick the pieces of sponge biscuit one by one 
 on the point of a skewer, dip them into the 
 icing, and place them on a sieve to drain. 
 When all are done, put them in a cool oven for 
 a minute or two to dry. Let them cool and 
 they will be ready for use. 
 STRAWBERRY HYDROPATHIC PUDDING. 
 
 Although instructions are given for making 
 this pudding with strawberries only, any other 
 fruit, or any mixture of fruits, may be made 
 into a pudding in the same way. Take a basin 
 the size that the pudding should be. Put at 
 the bottom a round piece of stale crumb of 
 bread about the size of a five-shilling piece. 
 Place round this, in an upright position, and 
 about an inch apart from one another, fingers of 
 bread, three or four inches long, according to 
 the depth of the basin. Pick some strawberries, 
 and boil them with a spoonful or two of water 
 and as much sugar as will be required to sweeten 
 them pleasantly, until they are reduced to pulp. 
 Put the hot fruit gently into the basin with a 
 spoon, so as to disturb the bread as little as 
 possible; cover the surface of the fruit with 
 little odds and ends of bread cut up into small 
 dice, and press the pudding by putting a plate 
 upon it with a weight on the top. Leave it 
 in a cold place for three or four hours, or all 
 night if convenient. When wanted, remove the 
 weight and the plate, turn the pudding upon a 
 dish, and serve. It will come out in a shape. 
 A little custard or cream served with it will be 
 a great improvement. The pudding derives 
 its name from the fact that, thus made, it is 
 served at one or two hydropathic establishments 
 where the patients are not allowed to partake 
 of pastry. Time, about a quarter of an hour to 
 boil the strawberries. 
 
 STRAWBERRY ICE AND VANILLA ICE IN ONE 
 MOULD. 
 
 Flavour three-quarters of a pint of cream with 
 half a stick of vanilla, by boiling them gently 
 together for a short time; sweeten the cream, 
 mix with it the well- whisked yolks of three eergs, 
 and stir the mixture over a gentle fire till it 
 begins to thicken. Strain it into a bowl. Rub 
 ripe strawberries through a sieve, and take half 
 a pint of the juice. Thoroughly mix with this 
 half a pint of syrup at 3.5°, and freeze the two 
 creams in the usual way. Put an ice-mould in 
 ice for a short time. Plqce in the middle of it 
 a piece of cardboard, cut so as to fit the mould, 
 and to divide it into two equal parts. Put the 
 vanilla ice at one side of the division, and the 
 strawberry ice at the other. Draw out the 
 separating cardboard, close the mould, and sur- 
 round i^ with ice till it is frozen. _ When wanted, 
 plunge it into hot water for an instant, turn it 
 upside down on a napkin on a dish, and serve. 
 Sufiicient for a quart of ice. 
 
STR 
 
 874 
 
 STR 
 
 STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM. 
 
 Pick the stalks off a pound of fresh, ripe, 
 finely-flavoured strawlserries, sprinkle half a 
 pound of powdered sugar over the fruit, bruise 
 it Tvell with a wooden spoon, and rub it through 
 a fine hair sieve. Mix with the juice thus 
 obtained a pint of thick cream, the juice of a 
 lemon, and a few drops of cochineal. Freeze and 
 mould in the usual way. Serve in glasses with 
 a strawberry on top. (See picture on page 870.) 
 STRAWBERRY ICE MADE WITH JAM. 
 
 Although strawberry ices may bo made with 
 jam for convenience, they will not equal in 
 flavour those made with fresh fruit. Take half 
 a pound of strawberry jam; mix with it a pint 
 of cream, or milk and cream mixed, and the 
 strained juice of a lemon. Rub the mixture 
 through a fine sieve into the freezing-pot, and 
 freeze in the usual way. Put it into a mould, 
 set it again in ice, and let it remain until 
 wanted. 
 
 STRAWBERRY ISINGLASS JELLY. 
 
 Pick a quart of ripe red strawberries, put 
 them into a bowl, and pour upon them a clear 
 syrup made by boiling three-quarters of a pound 
 of refined sugar with a pint of water for a 
 quarter of an hour. Cover the dish, and leave 
 the fruit to soak all night. Put two ounces and 
 a half of isinglass into a saucepan with a pint of 
 water which has been beaten up with half the 
 white of an egg. Stir the mixture, and heat it 
 gently till the isinglass is dissolved, carefully 
 removing the scum till it ceases to rise. Strain 
 the liquor through three or four folds of 
 muslin, and when lo is lukewarm, mix with it 
 the syrup which has been drained from the 
 strawberries, half a tea-cupful of red currant 
 juice, and the strained juice of a fresh lemon. 
 Mix the ingredients thoroughly, put the jelly 
 into a damp mould, and stand it in a cool place 
 or upon ice till it is set. If preferred, gela- 
 tine may be substituted for the isinglass, and 
 the jelly will then be less expensive. The 
 appearance of the mould will be improved if 
 two or three spoonfuls of jelly are first poured 
 into the mould, allowed to stiffen, then orna- 
 mented with large ripe strawberries, and the 
 mould filled with jelly and strawberries alter- 
 nately. Time, eight or nine hours to set the 
 jelly. Probable cost. 4s. 6d. Sufficient for two 
 moderate-sized moulds. 
 STRAWBERRY JAM. 
 
 Gather the fruit after two or three days of 
 dry weather, when it is fully ripe, but not over- 
 ripe, or it will be flavourless, and may be 
 tainted with bitterness and the elements of 
 decay. Pick the berries, and discard all that 
 are at all unsound. Weigh the strawberries, 
 and take three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar 
 for each pound of fruit. Put a layer of berries 
 into the preserving-pan, then a layer of sugar, 
 and repeat until the pan is a little less than 
 three-parts full. Set it at the side of, but not 
 upon, the fire, and keep stirring gently to pre- 
 vent burning; but be careful not to crush the 
 fruit. Very carefully remove the scum as it 
 rises, and let the jam boil gently until a little 
 put upon a plate will set, or be stiff. Take the 
 pan from the fire, let its contents cool for a few 
 minutes, then pour the jam into jars. Cover 
 
 in the usual way. The fiavour of strawberry 
 jam depends a great deal upon the season. 
 When the summer is cold, wet, and sunless, it is 
 difficult to make jam with the real perfume o£ 
 the fruit, although it may be made to keep by 
 long boiling and an extra, allowance of sugar. 
 Time to boil, three-quarters of an hour or more. 
 Probable cost, strawberries, 4d. to 8d. per 
 pound. The fruit can generally be bought 
 cheaper by the peck. 
 
 STRAWBERRY JAM (another way). 
 
 Pick the strawberries, carefully look out and 
 discard air that are unsound, and weigh the 
 fruit. Boil it, stirring occasionally to keep it 
 from burning, for half an hour, then mix in 
 thoroughly, off the fire, half a pound of loaf 
 sugar broken into small pieces for each original 
 pound of fruit. Boil the jam quickly half an 
 hour longer, or till it will set, and put it into 
 jars in the usual way. Time to boil the fruit, 
 half an hour without the sugar, and half an hour 
 with the sugar. 
 
 STRAWBERRY JAM, SUPERIOR. 
 
 Strawberry jam, although very delicious, is, 
 if anything, too luscious. If made according 
 to the following recipe, this fault will be cor- 
 rected. Take the juice of three pints of ripe 
 white or even red currants. Put this into a 
 preserving-pan, and throw in four pounds of 
 freshly-gathered ripe strawberries which have 
 been picked and carefully looked over. Let the 
 fruit boil, remove the scum, and add four pounds 
 of refined loaf sugar. Boil the jam quickly 
 until done enough. Put it into jars, and cover 
 these in the usual manner. Time to boil the 
 jam, from thirty to forty minutes. 
 
 STRAWEERRY JELLY. 
 
 Take quite fresh fruit which has been 
 gathered in dry weather. Pick the stalks from 
 it, put it into a preserving-pan (an enamelled 
 one is the best for the purpose), and place it by 
 the side of a clear fire that the juice may be 
 drawn gently from it. As soon as this flowa 
 freely, simmer it until the berries appear to 
 collapse, but on no account allow the juice to re- 
 main on the fire till it thickens. Pour the fruit 
 upon a well-scalded but dry sieve, and let the 
 juice drain thoroughly from it ; strain the liquor 
 through three or four thicknesses of muslin, and 
 weigh it. Boil quickly for twenty minutes, and 
 stir frequently. Take the pan from the fire, 
 and then add very gradually fourteen ounces of 
 coarsely-pounded loaf sugar for each pound of 
 juice. Let one portion be dissolved before 
 another is added. When all the sugar is dis- 
 solved, put the pan again on the fire, and boil 
 the jelly until a little put upon a plate will 
 stiffen. Pour the jelly into small jars, cover 
 these in the usual way, and store in a cool dry 
 place. Time to boil the jelly with the sugar, 
 a quarter of an hour or more, according to the 
 quality of the fruit. Probable cost, straw- 
 berries, from 4d. to 8d. per pound; less if 
 bought by the peck. 
 
 STRAWBERRY SALAD. 
 
 Take equal portions of strawberries and red 
 and white currants. Pick them, place them in 
 layers, and pile them on a dish. Sprinkle pow- 
 dered sugar over them, and pour thick cream 
 
STR 
 
 875 
 
 STU 
 
 upon them. The cream and sugar should not 
 be poured on the fruit till the last moment. If 
 liked, other fruits, such as gooseberries, cherries, 
 raspberries, etc., may be introduced into the 
 salad. 
 
 STRAWBERRY SOLID. 
 
 Dissolve three-quarters of an ounce of isin- 
 glass by boiling it in a quarter of a pint of 
 water. Press a, pint of strawberries through a 
 sieve and add a table-spoonful of lemon-juice 
 and a little sugar. Add three-quarters of a pint 
 of cream and the dissolved isinglass when cool. 
 Mix thoroughly. Pour the solid into a damp 
 earthenware mould, as metal would spoil its 
 colour, and when it is stiff it will be ready for 
 use. If fresh strawberries are not at hand, jam 
 may be used instead, but it will need to be 
 rubbed through a fine sieve to keep out the 
 seeds. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for six 
 or eight persons. Time, about an hour to pre- 
 pare. 
 
 STRAWBERRY SOUFFLE. 
 
 Take half a pint of the pulp of fresh, ripe 
 strawberries; mix with it the yolks of three 
 eggs, half a pound of sugar, and one ounce and 
 a half of butter; also half a gill of cream and 
 three table-spoonfuls of milk mixed with an 
 ounce of flour and half an ounce of arrowroot 
 to the consistency o£ a custard. Put this in a 
 saucepan, boil up, and let it cool. Then add 
 a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice, a table-spoon- 
 ful of maraschino, the whites of five eggs well 
 beaten to a stiff froth, and six to eight ounces 
 of strawberries cut into slices. Colour with a 
 little carmine, pour into a souffle-dish, then bake 
 for half an hour or so in the oven, and when 
 nearly done dredge with fine sugar. A fancy 
 paper or a napkin may be put round. Serve 
 with cream and sugar, or a puree of fruit. 
 Probable cost. Is. 8d. to 2s. 
 
 STRAWBERRY TARTLETS. 
 
 Bake some good pastry in patty-pans, and 
 fill with small ripe strawberries of equal size. 
 Make a syrup of half a pint of strawberry-juice 
 and six ounces of sugar, bringing it to the boil 
 and skimming it well. As soon as a little 
 poured on a cold plate will stiffen remove the 
 pan at once from the fire, and when the syrup 
 has cooled a little fill up the patty-pans. 
 
 STRAWBERRY VINEGAR. 
 
 This vinegar is excellent for flavouring sweet 
 sauces, and a spoonful or two put into a tum- 
 blerful of cold water forms a refreshing summer 
 drink. Gather the fruit in dry weather, when 
 it is fully ripe and finely flavoured. Let it be 
 quite fresh. Pick and weigh it, and put it into 
 stone jars or wide-mouthed glass bottles, and 
 over each pound pour a quart of best white-wine 
 vinegar. Cover the jars closely, and let the 
 strawberries infuse in the vinegar for three days. 
 Drain it off, and put it upon fresh fruit. Let 
 this stand three days, and repeat the opera- 
 tion a third time. Drain off the liquor closely, 
 and let it run through a ca^nvas bag dipped in 
 vinegar. Measure it, and stir into it until 
 almost dissolved a pound of sugar broken up 
 small for each pint of vinegar. Put it in an 
 enamelled (not a metal) saucepan over a clear 
 fire, and let it boil gently for five minutes. 
 
 Pour it out, let it stand twelve minutes, skim 
 it thoroughly, and bottle for use. Time, ' ten 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. per pint. 
 
 STRAWBERRY WATER (a refreshing summer drink)." 
 Take half a pound of finely-flavoured straw- 
 berries. Bruise them well in a basin with a 
 wooden spoon, and mix with them four table- 
 spoonfuls of finely-powdered sugar and a 
 quarter of a pint of cold water. Eub them 
 through a fine sieve, and filter what passeB 
 through the sieve till it is clear and bright. 
 Wash the dregs in the sieve with a little cold 
 water to prevent waste. Add the strained juice 
 of half a lemon and a pint of cold water to the 
 liquor, and put it in ice or in a cool place till 
 wanted. Time, about an hour to prepare. 
 Probable cost, 3d. per pint. Sufficient for about 
 a quarb of water. 
 STRAWBERRY WATER ICE. 
 
 Pick a pound of ripe strawberries, and bruise 
 them well with half a pound of red currants. 
 Pour upon them a pint of clarified sugar, and 
 add two or three drops of cochineal if liked. 
 Rub the whole through a hair sieve into a basin 
 and freeze in the usual way. 
 
 STRAWBERRY WINE. 
 
 A simple method of making strawberry wine 
 is to add a little strawberry-juice to good 
 flavourless currant wine. To make it from fresh 
 fruit, bruise three gallons of strawberries, and 
 pour upon them three gallons of water. Let 
 them infuse twenty-four hours. Strain the 
 liquor through a canvas bag, and add eight 
 pounds of lump sugar, two gallons of cider, 
 one ounce of powdered red tartar, and the thin 
 rind of a fresh lemon. When putting the wine 
 into the cask a little brandy may be added if 
 liked. 
 
 STUFFING. 
 
 Stuffing is but a homely name for forcemeat, 
 for the preparation of which various recipes are 
 given under their appropriate headings. In 
 making forcemeat great care should be taken 
 that the ingredients are equally and smoothly 
 mixed, that no one particular herb or spice over- 
 powers the flavour of the, rest; and that the 
 seasoning is suited to the dish it is intended to 
 accompany. Forcemeats should be of such a con- 
 sistency that they can be cut through with a 
 knife, yet they should neither be heavy nor dry. 
 When they are made up into balls these should 
 never be larger than a small nutmeg. When 
 intended for soups or ragouts, they should be 
 cooked before being added to the dish. They 
 will need to be fried till brown for brown sauce, 
 and boiled for three minutes for white sauce. 
 
 STUFFING, ALEXANDRE DUMAS'. 
 
 Stuffing prepared in the following way was 
 originally intended for turkey (to " avoid spend- 
 ing forty or fifty francs on truffles"), but it is 
 equally suited to hare. Mince together veal, 
 chicken, and partridge flesh, if these are to be 
 had, in small and equal portions, and add four 
 ounces of sausage-meat. Boil from fifteeen to 
 twenty fine Lyons chestnuts till tender in salt 
 and water. A stick of celery may be simmered 
 with them. When the chestnuts are done enough, 
 crush them, and mix them with the mincemeat. 
 Put a clove of garlic and a handful of fresh, 
 
STU 
 
 876 
 
 STU 
 
 green parsley-leaves inside the hare, fill it with 
 the stuffing, and sew up securely. 
 
 STUFFING FOR HARE, MEG DOD'S. 
 
 Grate the crumb of a stale penny loaf, and 
 soak it in port or claret. Mix with it four 
 ounces of beef suet chopped small, a tea-spoon- 
 ful of finely-shredded parsley, a small pinch of 
 minced shallot, a tea-spoonful of grated lemon- 
 rind, a tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg, and a 
 little salt and cayenne. Mix the ingredients 
 thoroughly, and bind them together with yolk 
 of egg. Put the forcemeat into the hare, and 
 sew it up closely. If the liver is in a sound 
 state, it may be parboiled, chopped, and mixed 
 with the forcemeat. In the original recipe it 
 was recommended that a boned anchovy should 
 be added to this preparation. This may be in- 
 troduced or omitted, according to taste. 
 
 STUFFIPiGS OR FORCEMEAT, DR. KITCHENER 
 ON. 
 
 Forcemeat is considered an indispensable 
 accompaniment to most made dishes, and when 
 composed with good taste gives additional spirit 
 and relish to even that "Sovereign of Savouri- 
 ness " — turtle soup. It is also sent up in patties 
 and for stuffing of veal, game, poultry, etc. 
 The ingredients should be so proportioned that 
 no flavour predominates. To give the same 
 stuffing for veal, hare, etc., argues a poverty of 
 invention ; with a little contrivance you may 
 make as great a variety as you have dishes. 
 The poignancy of forcemeat should be pro- 
 portioned to the savouriness of the viands to 
 which it is intended to give an additional zest. 
 Some dishes require a very delicately-flavoured 
 forcemeat — for others it must be full and highly 
 seasoned. What would be piquant in a turkey 
 would be insipid with turtle. Tastes are so 
 different, and the praise the cook receives will 
 depend so much on her pleasing the palate of 
 those she works for, that all her sagacity must 
 be on the alert to produce the flavours to which 
 her employers are partial. Most people have 
 an acquired and peculiar taste in stuffings, etc., 
 and what exactly pleases one seldom is precisely 
 what another <:onside;'s the most agreeable, and 
 after all the contrivance of a painstaking pala- 
 tician to combine her haul gouts in the most 
 exquisite proportions, the very dish one likes 
 the best is acid or insipid to the rest. 
 
 STURGEON. 
 
 The sturgeon is a large fish somewhat resem- 
 bling the shark in form. Its body is more or 
 less covered with rows of bony spikes. In the 
 North of Europe, and in some of the States of 
 North America it is caught in abundance, but 
 it is seldom met with in English rivers. It is 
 said that those who have the good fortune to 
 capture it are bound to send their prize to the 
 reigning sovereign, as the sturgeon is regarded 
 as a royal fish. The flesh of the sturgeon is 
 agreeable and wholesome, and looks something 
 like veal. It was so highly esteemed in ancient 
 days that it was crowned before being brought 
 to table, and a band of music marched before it. 
 Its roe is converted into caviare, a favourite 
 Bussian delicacy, and from its air-bladder fine 
 isinglass is prepared. It is occasionally to be 
 met with in the London market, and generally 
 fetches a good price; indeed, it is so rare, and 
 
 costs so much, that when it is obtained it is 
 generally cooked regardless of expense. The 
 sterlet, though the smallest, is the most highly- 
 prized species of sturgeon. Its flesh is delicious, 
 and its caviare is reserved exclusively for the 
 Eussian court. Probable cost, uncertain. (,S'(e 
 also Steelet.) 
 
 STURGEON (a la Cardinal). 
 
 Take about two pounds of sturgeon. Cleanse 
 thoroughly, and skin it. Bind it into shape 
 firmljr with tape, and lay in a saucepan, and 
 with it an onion stuck with four cloves, a little 
 piece of mace, a sliced carrot, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, a glass of vinegar, and as much water 
 as will cover the fish. Let all boil gently until 
 the sturgeon is done. Lay it on a dish, pour 
 lobster sauce over it, and serve. A few prawns 
 and green parsley may be used as a garnish. 
 The time required to boil sturgeon will vary 
 according to the size and age of the fish from 
 v/hich the piece was taken — from three-quarters 
 of an hour to one hour. 
 Probable cost, from Is. 6d. per pound. 
 The above will make sufficient for about five 
 or six persons. 
 STURGEON (a la Provenjale). 
 
 Take a slice of sturgeon cut from the middle 
 of the fish, lard it all over with thin strips of 
 ham, or even of eel, and brown it by putting it 
 in a stewpan with a large slice of butter, a, 
 spoonful of powdered sweet herbs, half a clove 
 of garlic, and a little pepper and salt. Lay two 
 or three bay-leaves on the top of the fish, and 
 pour a little stock round. Cover the saucepan 
 closely, and let the contents simmer over a, 
 gentle fire till they are done enough. Serve 
 the fish on a hot dish, and send its own gravy, 
 melted butter, brown sauce, anchovy sauce, or 
 any similar sauce, to table with it. Time, ac- 
 cording to the age and size of the fish. 
 Probable cost, is. 6d. per pound. 
 
 STURGEON (k la Rialto). 
 
 Take a piece of sturgeon weighing about 
 two pounds, cleanse thoroughly, skin it, and 
 lay in vinegar and water for twelve hours. 
 Drain well, wipe the fish with a clean towel, 
 then tie round with a, broad band of tape and 
 put into boiling water, allowing sufficient water 
 to cover the Bsh. Add a, table-sp6onful of salt 
 to the water, together with one large Spanish 
 onion stuck with four cloves, a small piece 
 of lemon-rind, and a bunch of sweet herbs. 
 Let it boil gently for one hour; then drain 
 carefully and place on a hot dish. Make a 
 thick white sauce with two table-spoonfuls of 
 flour, a pint of milk, an ounce of butter, and, 
 if possible, add a table-spoonful of good, rich 
 cream. 
 
 Chop up two eggs finely, and add to the 
 sauce; pour over the fish, and garnish with 
 parsley. 
 
 Cost uncertain. 
 
 STURGEON {k la Russe). 
 
 Take a piece of sturgeon weighing about two 
 pounds. Cleanse thoroughly, scale it, remove 
 the spikes, and lay it in salt and water for ten 
 or twelve hours. An hour before it is wanted 
 rub it well with vinegar, and let it lie with a 
 little vinegar poured round it. Put it into a 
 
STU 
 
 877 
 
 STU 
 
 fiah-kettle with as much boiling water as will 
 cover it, and add two onions, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, and an ounce of bay salt. Let it boil 
 gently till done enough, take it up, flour it well, 
 put it before a, brisk fire, and baste it with 
 butter till it is well browned. Put it on a dish, 
 and pour over it, or serve separately in a tureen, 
 a sauce prepared as follows. Bone and skin two 
 anchovies, and put them into a saucepan with a 
 -glass of whitfe wine, a button onion, an inch of 
 lemon-rind, and a cupful of stock. Boil all 
 gently together for a minute or two. Strain the 
 sauce, thicken it with flour and butter, stir two 
 table-spoonfuls of thick cream into it, and serve. 
 
 STURGEON, BAKED. 
 
 Take a small sturgeon, skin and cleanse it, 
 and remove the inside. Lay the fish in 
 a large baking-dish, sprinkle a little chopped 
 parsley over it, together with a little pepper 
 and salt. Moisten with a tumblerful of white 
 wine ; lay some little pieces of butter here and 
 there upon the fish, and bake in a moderate 
 oven. Baste frequently. When it is nicely 
 browned, serve the sturgeon on a hot dish with 
 its own sauce poured round it. Time to bake, 
 about an hour. 
 
 STURGEON, BAKED (another way). 
 
 Split the sturgeon. Make a marinade either 
 with wine or vinegar, and pour it into a vessel 
 large enough to contain the fish, which cover 
 with buttered paper to prevent its getting too 
 high a colour. Baste frequently with the mari- 
 nade. When the sturgeon is done, have the 
 sauce made as in the recipe Sturgeon, Roasted, 
 and use it to mask the fish. Put the marinade 
 in the dish with the sturgeon, but you may lay 
 skewers across the dish to prevent the fish from 
 touching the liquid. If the fish is boiled in the 
 liquid it will be thready, and not so palatable. 
 
 STURGEON, BAKED {k [a Reine). 
 
 This is an expensive though a superior dish. 
 Take a piece of sturgeon weighing about four 
 pounds, cleanse thoroughly, skin it, roll, and 
 bind it firmly with.tape ; put it into a saucepan 
 with a glassful of vinegar and as much water 
 as will cover it, and add a carrot, an onion, a 
 little salt and pepper, and a bunch of sweet 
 herbs. Let it simmer gently until done enough. 
 Drain it, and let it cool. Prepare as much 
 forcemeat of whiting as" will entirely cover the 
 surface of the sturgeon (see Quenelles op Cod, 
 Salmon, etc.). Lay this on the fish, and 
 smooth it with the blade of a knife dipped in 
 hot water. Ornament with pink tongue, black 
 truffles, and pickled gherkins cut into fancy 
 shapes. Roll it in buttered paper, and fasten 
 securely. Put it into a baking-dish, pour under 
 it about a pint of the liquor in which it was 
 boiled, and bake it, basting occasionally with 
 its liquor, in a gentle oven. Place it on a. dish, 
 garnish with prawns and tufts of green parsley, 
 and pour over it or serve with it a little well- 
 made ravigote sauce. Time to bake' the stur- 
 geon, three-quarters of an hour. Sufiicient for 
 eight or ten persons. Probable cost, sturgeon, 
 from Is. 6d. per pound. 
 
 STURGEON, BLANQUETTE OF (k la Paysanne). 
 
 When you have some roasted sturgeon re- 
 turned, keep it to make a blanquette. Pare 
 
 nicely some round pieces the size of half a crown, 
 and put them into a sauce a blanquette, to 
 which add a little chopped parsley and the juice 
 of a lemon. This blanquette is sent to table 
 like all others in a v^l-au-vent, or a casserole, 
 with rice, etc. 
 
 STURGEON, BLANQUETTE OF, WITH PEAS. 
 
 If you have any sturgeon left that is still 
 very fresh, make a blanquette with peas, which, 
 not requiring to be highly seasoned, will admit 
 only of fish which is extremely sweet. After 
 having simmered the peas as they are always 
 prepared for the second course, take three 
 spoonfuls of sauce tournee, and reduce it with 
 four spoonfuls of the peas, adding a very small 
 bit of sugar. When your sauce is very tljick, 
 put to it a thickening of two yolks of eggs, then 
 put the sturgeon to it, and serve either in a 
 vol-au-vent, or in a border of potatoes. Ob- 
 serve that in this dish the seasoning must be 
 very mild. 
 
 STURGEON, BOILED. 
 
 Cut. the fish into thin slices like veal cutlets, 
 rub them over with a little butter and give a 
 sprinkling of pepper. Serve very hot with 
 lemon garnish. Take great care to cut off the 
 skin before the fish is boiled, as the oil in the 
 skin if burnt imparts a very rank flavour. 
 
 STURGEON, BOILED (M. Ude's way). 
 
 Boil the sturgeon in salt and water. When 
 it is done, drain, and mask or cover it with the 
 following sauce. Reduce in a small stewpan 
 four spoonfuls of elder vinegar. When it is half 
 reduced, put in six spoonfuls of veloute, or rather 
 a quantity proportionate to the size of the fish, 
 and half a spoonful of cavice ; thicken the sauce 
 with three yolks of eggs, and add a quarter of 
 a pound of butter and some salt and pepper. 
 Work this sauce well ; drain the fish, and cover 
 it with the sauce. In order to keep it thick and 
 white, mix with it a little thick cream. 
 
 STURGEON, CHOOSING OF. 
 
 The flesh of this fish is partly white, with a 
 few blue veins, the grain even, the skin tender, 
 good-coloured, and soft. All the veins and 
 gristles should be blue; for when they are 
 brown and yellow, and the skin harsh, tough, 
 and dry, the fish is not good. It has a pleasant 
 smell when in perfection, but a very disagree- 
 able one when bad. It should also cut firm, 
 without crumbling. The females are as full of 
 roe as a carp. 
 
 STURGEON, CROQUETTES OF. 
 
 Sturgeon is a fish absolutely resembling veal, 
 and when fresh is as white as very fine veal ; 
 when red, nothing can be done with it. If there 
 is any returned of a very good white, but not 
 sufiicient to make a croquette, make it into 
 small timbales. Cut the sturgeon into dice, 
 and put them into a sauce similar to that men- 
 tioned in Timbales op Tuebot (see Tubbot). 
 After having cut enough fish into dice to make 
 the croquettes, take some bechamel, and mush- 
 rooms cut into dice, to which add a small lump 
 of butter, salt, etc., and put the fish into that 
 sauce. Let them cool, and then dip them into 
 crumbs of bread, as described for other cro- 
 quettes. Pry them of a good colour, and serve 
 some fried parsley in the centre of the dish. 
 
STU 
 
 878 
 
 STU 
 
 STURGEON CUTLETS. 
 
 Cut the sturgeon into slices a quarter of an 
 inch thick. Wash these, dry them in a cloth, 
 flour them, and dip them into egg and seasoned 
 bread-crumbs. Try in hot fat until they are 
 nicely browned on both sides, drain them, and 
 serve with piquant or tomato sauce. Time to 
 fry, ten to fifteen minutes. 
 
 STURGEON, FRESH, GRILLED. 
 
 Cut the sturgeon into slices an inch thick. 
 Dry these and dip them into egg and seasoned 
 bread-crumbs, and fasten them in papers satu- 
 rated with butter, or simply brush them over 
 with salad-oil, and sprinkle salt and pepper 
 upon them. Broil them over a clear fire until 
 they are sufficiently cooked on both sides. 
 Serve with melted butter, oyster, or anchovy 
 sauce, or with piquant sauce to which a few 
 drops of essence of anchovy and a small piece 
 of butter have been added. Time to grill, about 
 fifteen minutes, but varying with the size and 
 age of the fish. 
 
 STURGEON, FRIED. 
 
 Cut the fish into slices, and fry in the usual 
 manner; then pour off the fat, and put a little 
 flour and boiling water into the pan. Pour 
 this into a stewpan, and add to it some sweet 
 herbs and an onion, and season with pepper 
 and salt. Let the fish stew till quite tender; 
 then strain the sauce, and serve it poured round 
 the fish, adding first a little lemon-juice. 
 
 STURGEON, ROASTED. 
 
 Take a piece of sturgeon cut from the middle 
 of a good-sized fish. Cleanse thoroughly, and 
 skin it, season with salt and pepper, and tie thin 
 slices of fat bacon round it. Take a piece of 
 writing-paper large enough to cover the fish 
 entirely. Butter it thickly, and spread over it 
 sliced carrots and onions with a small quantity 
 of powdered sweet herbs, and wrap the fish in 
 it. Tie two more sheets of buttered paper upon 
 it, bind securely with tape, and put the stur- 
 geon in a cradle-spit, or tie it to an ordinary 
 spit, and roast before a clear fire. When done 
 enough take it down, pour a little matelote 
 sauce over it, and send more to table in a 
 tureen. The sauce may be made as follows. 
 Put half a pint of good brown sauce into a 
 saucepan with eighteen fried button onions, 
 the same number of small mushrooms,- and a 
 glassful of claret. Boil all gently together for 
 ten minutes. Add a pinch of pepper, a little 
 grated nutmeg, a small lump of sugar, and a 
 few drops of essence of anchovy. When the 
 ingredients are thoroughly mixed, take the 
 sauce off the fire, stir into it until dissolved a 
 small lump of butter, and it will be ready for 
 serving. Time, according to age and size. 
 
 STURGEON, ROASTED (another way). 
 
 Take a middle piece of sturgeon ; split it, and 
 dress it as in preceding recipe ; make a marinade 
 with white wine, with which baste the fish. Next 
 take some of the marinade and reduce it with 
 four large spoonfuls of good Spanish sauce. 
 When the sauce is of a good consistency, put in 
 it about half a pound of freiah butter kneaded 
 with a little flour, salt, cayenne pepper, the 
 juice of a lemon, and a spoopful of essence 
 of anchovies. If you have no Spanish sauce. 
 
 make a little thickening with flour and buttei, 
 
 and moisten with the marinade, adding a little 
 
 glaze. 
 
 STURGEON, SAUCE FOR. 
 
 If broiled or fried, any piquant sauce or any 
 of the sauces which usually accompany salmon 
 may be served with sturgeon. When stewed 
 (which is the most usual mode of cooking it), 
 the liquor in which it was simmered may be 
 strained, thickened, and either poured over it 
 or served in a tureen. 
 
 STURGEON, STEWED. 
 
 Take two pounds of sturgeon cut into slices 
 an inch thick. Soak these in strong vinegar 
 for five minutes, drain them, dry them in a 
 cloth, dip them in flour, and fry them in hot 
 fat till they are lightly browned on both sides. 
 Take as much good, nicely-flavoured veal stock 
 as will barely cover the fish, throw into it a 
 large glassful of Madeira, cover the saucepan 
 closely, and simmer the fish gently for an hour. 
 Put the slices on a dish, throw a spoonful of 
 capers upon them, pour the sauce round them, 
 and serve. Time to fry the slices, ten minutes; 
 to simmer them, one hour. 
 
 STURGEON, STEWED (another way.) 
 
 Dip the slices of fish in vinegar, then dry 
 them, dredge them with flour, and broil or fry 
 them. Next lay them in a stewpan with some 
 good broth, and let them stew gently till quite 
 tender; thicken with butter or cream, half a 
 glassful of wine, and a spoonful of soy, ketchup, 
 or Harvey's sauce ; throw capers over the top, 
 and serve up garnished with slices of lemon. 
 
 STURGEON, STEWED, AND GARNISHED WITH 
 SOLE. 
 
 Take a piece of sturgeon cut from the middle . 
 of a good-sized fish. Clean and scale it, and 
 soak it in salt And water for ten or twelve hours. 
 Drain, and cover it with thin slices of fat bacon. 
 Put it into the fish-kettle, and almost cover it 
 with nicely-flavoured stock. Add a glassful' of 
 claret, and simmer it gently until done enough. 
 Fillet flve or six soles. Spread a thin layer of 
 fish forcemeat on the skinned side of each fillet, 
 roll it, tie twine round it, and put the fillets 
 side by side in a buttered baking-dish. Pour 
 round them as much stock as will almost cover 
 them, and bake them in a moderate oven. 
 When the sturgeon is done, drain it, place 
 it on a hot dish, put the rolled fillets of sole 
 round it, and pour over them a small portion 
 of the liquor, strained and thickened, in which 
 the sturgeon was boiled. A small stewed 
 mushroom may be placed on each roll. If 
 preferred, the soles may be omitted altogether, 
 and the sturgeon, being cooked as above, may 
 ■ be served on a hot dish, and simply garnished 
 with parsley and cut lemon. Caper sauce and 
 plainly-boiled potatoes may then be served as 
 accompaniments. 
 STURGEON, STUFFED AND ROASTED. 
 
 Take the tail end of a moderate-sized stur- 
 geon; cleanse thoroughly, then bone and skin 
 it. Fill it with good veal forcemeat, roll it in 
 buttered paper, and bind it securely with tape. 
 Place it m a cradle-spit, put it down before a 
 clear fire, and baste liberally whilst it is roast- 
 ing. When it is done enough, serve on a hot 
 
sue 
 
 879 
 
 SUE 
 
 aish with plain melted butter, brown gravy, or 
 a sauce prepared as follows. Put into a small 
 saucepan a glassful of sherry, a table-spoonful 
 of strained lemon-juice, and a few drops of 
 essence of anchovy. Let the sauce boil up; 
 then serve. Time to roast, about an hour. 
 
 SUCCOTASH SOUP. 
 
 Succotash is an American preparation, usually 
 sold in tins. It consists of beans of various 
 kinds and corn, cooked ready for serving. It is 
 generally served up as a vegetable, according to 
 the directions given on the tins, but by adding 
 an increased quantity of milk or vegetable stock 
 to make it the required consistency, it will fur- 
 nish a-very delicious soup. Probable cost. Is. 
 per tin. 
 
 SUEDOISE OF PEACHES. 
 
 Boil six ounces of refined sugar in half a pint 
 of water till it is a clear syrup. Put into this 
 half a dozen fine ripe peaches which have been 
 merely wiped with a soft cloth, and let them 
 simmer very gently for six or eight minutes. 
 Lift them out carefully, pare them, split them 
 in halves, and Jet them soak for a while in half 
 the syrup. Into the other half throw two pounds 
 of ripe peaches which have been pared and split 
 in halves, and boil them till they form a smooth 
 dry pulp. Add as much sugar as they require 
 to sweeten them pleasantly, and also a table- 
 spoonful of strained lemon-juice to bring out 
 the flavour. Spread a layer of this pulp at the 
 bottom of a' dish, arrange the peaches upon it, 
 leaving out three or four of the halves, and fill 
 all the empty spaces with the pulp. Stick half 
 a blanched peach-kernel in each peach, and pour 
 over all the reduced syrup. Garnish the dish 
 with a border of macaroons or ratafias, or even 
 of candied peel stamped in fancy shapes. Pile 
 the unused halves of peaches on the top of the 
 dish, and serve. When peaches are expensive, 
 the fruit pulp may be made of apples instead of 
 peaches. Time to simmer the whole peaches, 
 six to eight minutes ; to boil the fruit to pulp, 
 from three-quarters of an hour to one hour. 
 Probable cost, peaches, very variable. Sufficient 
 for six persons. 
 
 SUET DUMPLINGS, EXCELLENT. 
 
 Shred finely six ounces of suet freed from 
 skin and fibre. Add to it a tea-spoonful of salt, 
 six ounces of flour, and two ounces of bread- 
 crumbs. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly, 
 and make them into a paste with two eggs 
 well whisked and mixed with six table-spoon- 
 fuls of milk. Divide the mixture into five or 
 six dumplings, tie these separately into cloths 
 lightly dredged with flour, and boil them 
 quickly until done enough. If any of these 
 dumplings are left, they may be cut into slices, 
 fried in butter, and served a second time. Time 
 to boil, three-quarters of an hour to one hour, 
 according to size. Probable cost, lOd. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 
 SUET DUMPLINGS, PLAIN. 
 
 It cannot be too strongly insisted upon, and 
 mothers of families cannot be too fully" per- 
 suaded, that a certain quantity of fat taken with 
 food is absolutely necessary to health. Those 
 who do not take it. are particularly liable to 
 consumption, and this is specially the case with 
 
 young people who are growing rapidly. To 
 these anxious friends administer fat as a 
 medicine in the shape of cod-liver oil, but it 
 matters little in what shape fat is taken, the 
 effect on the system of dripping, butter, or oil 
 being exactly the same. Unfortunately, though 
 one man can lead a horse to water, a hundred 
 cannot make him drink, and it is useless to set 
 before delicate, perhaps fanciful, persons things 
 from which, however nourishing and wholesome, 
 they turn away with dislike and loathing. 
 There are families in which every scrap of fat 
 which is served to its members seated at table 
 is left on the plate and thrown %p the cat or 
 into the dustbin. This ought not to be. It 
 does not often happen, indeed, in households 
 where the members of the families are employed 
 out of doors, but it does when their occupations 
 are sedentary. We have no right to say an 
 unkind word about " daintiness " if those who 
 are confined all day long in. a close indoor 
 atmosphere have not the sharp-set appetite of 
 the ploughman who hears the singing of the 
 lark, and feels the freshness of the breeze from 
 misty daybreak to ruddy sunset. Still, we 
 would urge those who think they can take no 
 meat but lean to use the fat under some dis- 
 guise. They already take it in many shapes un- 
 consciously, pnd without thinking of it, as in 
 broth, milk, and butter, and even in meat which 
 they call and consider lean. The housewife, at 
 any rate, ought to be thoroughly convinced of 
 the great importance of all kinds of fat in 
 family dishes. She ought to see that none is 
 wasted, to procure all she can at an economical 
 rate, to buy not one ounce less than the usual 
 quantity of good wholesome fat with the meat, 
 and then so to employ it that her family shall be 
 cheated, as it were, into taking, almost without 
 knowing it, what is essential for their bodily 
 welfare. One of the easiest ways of doing this 
 is to serve fat' in puddings, and amongst pud- 
 4ings of the kind one of the most excellent is 
 suet dumpling. This is wholesome, excellent, 
 and cheap; it may be made more or less sub- 
 stantial, its flavour may be varied according to 
 taste, and it can be eaten ss a, savoury or a 
 sweet dish. For plain suet dumpling, the best 
 suet is the kidney-fat of beef or veal, which can 
 be bought separately in small quantities, and at 
 a moderate, though, unfortunately, a gradually- 
 increasing price. To make the dumplings, 
 clear the suet from skin and fibre, chop it fine, 
 and to a pound of flour put from a quarter to 
 half a pound of chopped suet. Before putting 
 in the suet, however, mix with the flour a pinch 
 of salt, and, if liked, a small pinch of pepper : 
 if a small quantity only of suet is used, add 
 a tea-spoonful of baking-powder. Add cold 
 water to make the mixture into a tolerably stiff 
 dough. Divide this into balls about the size 
 of a large orange. Flour them well. Tie each 
 one separately and securely in a cloth vifhich 
 has been wrung out of boiling water and floured, 
 and be careful to leave the dumplings room to 
 swell. Throw them into fast -boiling water, 
 and keep them boiling quickly until done 
 enough. Turn them out of the cloth, and 
 serve immediately. Jam, sugar, treacle, sweet 
 sauce, or salt and meat-gravy may all be served 
 with them. When the dumplings are to be 
 
SUE 
 
 880 
 
 SUE 
 
 served with the meat they may be thrown 
 without cloths into the liquor in which the meat 
 is boiled, and allowed to remain until done 
 enough. Time to boil the dumplings, half 
 to three-quarters of an hour, according to size. 
 Probable cost, suet, lOd. per pound. Sufficient, 
 one dumpling for each person. 
 
 SUET DUMPLINGS, SWEET. 
 
 Prepare the suet dumplings as in the last 
 recipe. Before putting the suet into the flour, 
 take the necessary quantity of salt, and mix 
 with it a table-spoonful of sugar, a pinch of 
 grated nutmeg or spice, and any flavouring in- 
 gredients that may be chosen. Mix all 
 thoroughly together, make the mixtiire into 
 dough, divide it into balls, and boil as before. 
 A few currants may be added if liked, and 
 instead of sugar a spoonful of treacle may be 
 dissolved in the water. Time to boil the 
 dumplings, half to three-quarters of an hour, 
 according to size. Dumplings made with one 
 pound of flour and half a pound of suet will 
 be sufficient for five or six persons. Prob- 
 able cost, 8d. 
 
 SUET MILK (invalid Cookery). 
 
 Take an ounce of finely-shredded mutton suet 
 and add it to a pint of new milk. Set over a 
 very slow fire, in an enamelled saucepan, and let 
 the ^uet dissolve gently. Flavour with a little 
 nutmeg or mixed spice. Serve as hot as 
 possible, and heat the vessel and spoon. Any 
 cooked cereal or malted food may be added to 
 the milk. 
 SUET PASTE, FOR BOILED PUDDINGS. 
 
 (<S'ee Paste, Stjet, etc.) 
 
 SUET PASTRY, COMMON. 
 
 Suet pastry is especially suited for boiled fruit 
 or meat puddings. To make it, put a pound of 
 flour into a bowl, add a pinch of salt and from 
 six to eight ounces of good suet which has been 
 finely shredded and freed entirely from skin and 
 fibre. The suet should be well rubbed into the 
 flour. Make a hole in tlie centre of the mixture, 
 and pour in a small tea-cupful of water. Stir 
 this in lightly with a knife, and if necessary 
 add more water. Work the whole to a stiff 
 paste, roll it out two or three tiines, and let it 
 stand a few minutes before using it. If a small 
 quantity only of suet is used, a tea-spoonful 
 of baking-powder may be added, and this will 
 help to make the pastry light. 
 
 SUET PASTRY, RICH (for Meat Pies, etc ). 
 
 If the following directions are attended to, 
 suet may be used instead of butter for making 
 puff-paste for meat pies which are to be served 
 hot. If they are to be eaten when cold, butter 
 had better be used. The difference in the ex- 
 pense between suet and good butter is con- 
 siderable, and bad butter will spoil anything. 
 Take some dry veal or beef-kidney suet. Free 
 it entirely from skin and fibre, chop it small, 
 then pound it in a mortar, and whilst pounding 
 keep adding a tea-spoonful of salad-oil till the 
 suet looks like butter. If oil is not at hand, 
 fresh butter may be used instead. Two ounces 
 will be sufficient for half a pound of suet. Pro- 
 ceed according to the directions given for puff- 
 paste (see Paste, Puit, oe FEUiLiiETAGB). Suet, 
 lOd. per pound. 
 
 SUET PORRIDGE, FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 Mince a table-spoonful of beef suet very fine. 
 Mix two table-spoonfuls of flour with a tea-cup- 
 ful of milk until smooth, then put it into a 
 saucepan. Add the suet and a pinch of salt. 
 Boil very gently for ten minutes, and serve hot. 
 This is recommended to invalids who cannot 
 take cod-liver oil. 
 
 SUET PUDDING. 
 
 Chop eight ounces of suet finely. Mix with 
 it an equal weight of finely-grated bread- 
 crumbs, and add a pinch of salt, four table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar, and the grated rind and 
 strained juice of a lemon, and two eggs. Mix 
 thoroughly. Tie the mixture in a cloth, leav- 
 ing room for the pudding to swell, and boil 
 quickly till done enough. Time to boil, four 
 hours. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four 
 or fivB persons. 
 
 SUET PUDDING (another way). 
 
 Chop small four ounces of suet free from skin 
 and fibre. Add a pinch of salt, a little grated 
 ginger, and half a pound of flour. Whisk two 
 eggs with a quarter of a pint of milk. Stir this 
 into the mixture till it is smooth and light. 
 Tie the pudding in a floured cloth, being care- 
 ful to leave it room to swell, and boil quickly 
 till done enough. Serve with sweet or wine 
 sauce. Time to boil, about two hours. Prob- 
 able cost, 6d. Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 SUET PUDDING, DR. KITCHENER'S. 
 
 Shred finely seven ounces of good kidney 
 suet. Put this into a bowl, and mix with it 
 half a tea-spoonful of salt, two table-spoonfuls 
 of sugar, half a nutmeg, grated, half a tea- 
 spoonful of thin lemon-rind chopped small, 
 four ounces of flour, and three ounces of bread- 
 crumbs. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. 
 Whisk two fresh eggs till they are light and 
 frothy, add gradually a quarter of a pint of 
 milk, and stir the liquor into the pudding. Let 
 it stand half an hour. Put it in one lump 
 into a well-floured cloth, plunge it into boiling 
 water, and boil quickly until done enough. 
 Serve with sweet or wine sauce. Time to boil, 
 three hours. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 SUET PUDDING, FRUIT. 
 
 (See Fruit Stjet Pudding.) 
 SUET PUDDING, PLAIN. 
 
 An excellent plain suet pudding may be made 
 by following the instructions already given for 
 making suet dumplings, then boiling the pre- 
 paration whole instead of dividing it into dump- 
 lings. A pudding thus made will be excellent if 
 served with the joint, and with plenty of gravy; 
 or it may be sent to table separately, having 
 had a jar of jam emptied upon it at the last 
 moment. Time to boil the pudding, one hour 
 and a half. Probable cost, 6d. to 8d. Sufficient 
 for six or seven persons. 
 
 SUET PUDDING, PLAIN (served witli sugar and 
 lemon-juice). 
 Rub two ounces of finely-shredded suet into 
 a pound of flour. Add half a tea-spoonful of 
 salt, and just before the water or milk is added 
 mix in two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder. 
 Add water to make a tolerably light paste; 
 
SUE 
 
 881 
 
 SUG 
 
 then put the pudding in a floured cloth, and 
 boil it till done enough. This pudding is also 
 very good with gravy. Time to boil, one hour. 
 Probable cost, 5d. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 SUET, TO CLARIFY FOR FRYING. 
 
 Chop the suet roughly, free it from skin and 
 fibre, and melt it iu a Dutch oven before a clear 
 fire. Pour the fat off frequently as it melts, for 
 fear it should burn ; or put the minced suet into 
 a saucepan with plenty of boiling water, and 
 keep it boiling until it is dissolved. Pour the 
 liquor into a basin, and when it is cold take the 
 cake of fat from the top. Melt it again, strain 
 . it through muslin, keep back the sediment, and 
 the fat will be fit for use. Clarified suet is ex- 
 cellent for making plain pastry, and also for 
 basting and frying purposes. 
 SUET, TO KEEP FOR MONTHS. 
 
 Take firm but perfectly sweet suet. Free it 
 entirely from skin and fibre, and put it into a 
 saucepan over a very gentle fire. Let it melt 
 gradually. Pour it into a pan of cold water. 
 When it is cold and hard, wipe it dry with a 
 soft cloth, wrap it in paper, put it in a linen 
 bag, and hang it in a cool dry place. Scrape it 
 when it is wanted for use. Fresh suet will 
 keep for several days if it is chopped fine with 
 all the veiny pieces removed, then put into a 
 jar, entirely covered with flour, and kept in a 
 cool place. 
 
 SUFFOLK-BANG CHEESE. 
 
 There are cases in which dairy-farmers skim 
 the milk before they begin to make cheese. 
 These cheeses are remarkable for their hard- 
 ness, because caseine, independently of the but- 
 ter, is an exceedingly hard substance; these 
 cheeses are sometimes brought into the market, 
 and they are so hard that they are the subject 
 of many a joke. Of such are the Suffolk-bang 
 cheeses made by frugal housewives iu that 
 county, who first take the butter and send it 
 to market, and then make their cheese. It is 
 said of it in derision that " dogs bark at it, 
 pigs grunt at it, but neither of them can bite it." 
 Nevertheless, as it contains much nourishment, 
 it can be grated, and served with macaroni, 
 soups, savouries, etc. 
 
 SUFFOLK BUNS. 
 
 Eub four ounces of lard into a pound of 
 flour; add a spoonful of salt, two tea-spoonfuls 
 of baking - powder, three table - spoonfuls of 
 sugar, and three table-spoonfuls of currants or 
 caraway - seeds. Mix the dry ingredients 
 thoroughly; whisk two eggs and stir them into 
 the mixture, to make a smooth firm paste. A 
 little milk may be added if necessary. Roll the 
 paste out to the thickness of an inch. Stamp 
 it in rounds, and bake these on tins in a gentle 
 oven. If preferred, ground rice and butter may 
 be used instead of flour and lard. Time to bake, 
 three-quarters of an hour. 
 SUFFOLK DUMPLINGS. 
 
 Mix some bread dough lightly with milk in- 
 stead of water; let it rise before the fire for an 
 hour. Have ready a saucepan of fast-boiling 
 water. Divide the dough into balls the size of 
 an orange, throw them into the water, and boil 
 them quickly until done enough. When a fork 
 3e 
 
 stuck to the centre of them comes out quite clean 
 they are cooked sufficiently. Serve at once. 
 When eating the dumplings do not cut them 
 with a knife, but tear them apart with a fork 
 and spoon. Send butter and sugar, and lemon- 
 juice, or treacle, to table with them. Time to 
 boil, twenty minutes. Sufficient, allow one for 
 each person. 
 SUGAR BARLEY. 
 
 Take any quantity of clarified sugar in that 
 state that on dipping the finger into the pan the 
 sugar which adheres to it will break with a 
 slight noise; this is called crackling. When 
 the sugar is near this, put in two or three drops 
 of lemon-juice or a little vinegar to prevent its 
 graining. When it has come to the crack, take 
 it off instantly, and dip the pan into cold water 
 to prevent the sugar burning; let it stand a 
 little, and then pour it on a marble, which must 
 have been previously rubbed with oil. Cut the 
 sugar into small pieces, when it will be ready for 
 use. One drop of citron will flavour a consider- 
 able quantity. 
 
 SUGAR BISCUITS. 
 
 No. 1. — Beat a pound of fresh butter to cream. 
 Add a pound of powdered and sifted sugar and 
 a pound of dried flour, and any flavouring that 
 may be preferred. Make the mixture into paste 
 by stirring milk or cream into it; roll it out 
 very thin, stamp it into rounds or squares; 
 prick these with a fork, and bake on buttered 
 tins in a well-heated oven. No. 2. — Take four 
 eggs, with an equal weight of finely-pounded 
 sugar and half the weight of dried flour.. Break 
 the eggs, and put the yolks and the whites into 
 separate bowls. Beat the yolks and the sugar 
 together for half an hour; add the flour with 
 any flavouring that may be chosen, and when 
 the mixture is quite smooth add the whites of 
 the eggs beaten to a firm froth. Drop the bis- 
 cuits in knobs upon sheets of buttered paper, 
 sift sugar upon them, and bake in a quick oven. 
 No. 3. — Put half a pint of milk into a bowl, 
 and stir into it as much flour as will form a 
 thick batter. Add a spoonful of salt and a gill 
 of yeast, and set the sponge on the hearth to 
 rise. This should be done in the evening. 
 Next morning dissolve very gently two ounces 
 of butter. Add this to the sponge, and 
 knead in as much flour as will form a dough 
 and a little powdered white sugar. Let the 
 dough rise before the flre till it is quite light; 
 divide it into biscuits, handling it as lightly as 
 possible, and put these into buttered tins. Let 
 them rise again for a short time, and bake them 
 in a brisk oven. When they are done enough, 
 brush them over with a syrup of sugar and 
 water, and sift powdered sugar upon them. 
 SUGAR BOILING. 
 
 There are several degrees in boiling sugar 
 from clarified syrup to caramel. The process 
 requires not only care but an experience which 
 can, perhaps, only be expected from a confec- 
 tioner. Becipes are given for boiling sugar to 
 the first, second, third, fourth, and fifth degrees. 
 These are the principal gradations, and they are 
 further divided by professional persons. When 
 great nicety is required, the condition of the 
 sugar can be best ascertained by a saccharo- 
 raeter, which is an instrument constructed for 
 
SUG 
 
 882 
 
 SUG 
 
 the purpose of determining the exact condition 
 of preparations of this nature. The finest sugar 
 only should be used in confectionery. It is 
 really the most economical, as common sugar 
 wastes much more when it is being clarified. 
 
 Sugar, to Clarify. — Break the sugar into large 
 lumps, and put it into a delicately-clean pre- 
 serving-pan. Allow a pint of water to each 
 pound if it is for syrup; if for candying less 
 than half that quantity will be sufficient. The 
 white of one egg will also be required for 
 twelve pounds of sugar if it is refined ; for six 
 pounds if it is coarse. Beat the white of egg 
 lightly; stir it into the water, and pour the 
 mixture upon the sugar. Let it stand until 
 dissolved; then stir it well, and put it upon a 
 gentle fire. Do not disturb it after the scum 
 begins to form. Let it boil for five minutes ; 
 take it from the fire, let it stand for two 
 minutes, and carefully remove all the scum. 
 Set it on the fire again, and when it is about to 
 boil up throw in a little cold water, which has 
 been reserved for the purpose from the quantity 
 originally measured. Boil till the scum forms 
 again; draw it from the fire, let it settle, then 
 skim it as before, and repeat this operation till 
 the syrup is quite clear. If it is not properly 
 cleared it will rise over the pan when it is boiled 
 to a height. Strain the syrup through muslin, 
 and it will be fit for use or for further boiling. 
 To prevent waste,, the scum should be laid on a 
 sieve, and any sjrrup that runs from it should 
 be boiled up again. 
 
 First Degree, named Candied Sugar. — Take 
 the sugar clarified as above, and put it again on 
 the fire. Let it boil till smooth. Dip the hand 
 for a moment in cold water to keep it 
 from being burnt; take from the skimmer a 
 drop of the syrup, press it quickly, draw it 
 apart, and if it forms a brittle thread it has 
 attained the first degree. 
 
 Second Degree, named Souffle, or Blown Sugar. 
 — Boil the candied sugar still longer. Dip in 
 the skimmer, shake off the sugar, and blow 
 strongly through the holes of the skimmer. 
 When the sugar forms into bubbles it has at- 
 tained the second degree. 
 
 Third Degree, named Feathered Sugar. — Boil 
 the blown sugar still longer. Dip the skimmer 
 again in the pan, shake it, then give it a 
 quick toss. If the sugar flies off like down or 
 feathers it has attained the third degree. 
 
 Fourth Degree, named Crachling Sugar. — Boil 
 the feathered sugar a short time longer. Dip a 
 stick in the sugar, and plunge it instantly into 
 cold water. If the sugar that hangs to the 
 stick becomes instantly hard the sugar has 
 attained the fourth, degree. In making this 
 experiment the cook must be careful that the 
 water in which she tries the sugar is perfectly 
 cold. If it is not she may be misled. If the 
 sugar is intended for barley-sugar, a little 
 grated lemon or essence of lemon should now 
 be added, and the sugar should be poured upon 
 a broad dish; and when the edges begin to 
 harden it should be divided into strips and 
 twisted. If there is any fear that the sugar 
 will grain or return again to powder a little 
 lemon-juice may be added. 
 
 Fifth Degree, named Caramel. — Boil the 
 sugar until when a little is put into cold water 
 
 it hardens instantly and snaps like glass. 
 Squeeze in a little lemon-juice; let the sugar 
 remain one minute longer on the fire, then, if 
 it is wanted for sugar spinning, set the pan in 
 another of cold water, and the caramel will be 
 ready for use. Care should be taken that the 
 fire IS not very fierce when the sugar is being 
 boiled, for if it flames up at the sides of the 
 pan it may bum and spoil the sugar. Spun 
 sugar is a pretty ornament for sweetmeats, and 
 may be made of sugar prepared as follows. 
 Moulds of a suitable size and form should be 
 oiled with almond oil, and then with a fork the 
 sugar should be spread over them in fine threads 
 of chain or network. These moulds will look 
 very pretty if placed upon an iced cake, and they 
 can be used several times if they are carefully 
 handled. One way of performing this really 
 difficult operation is to tie two forks together 
 with the prongs outwards, dip them lightly in 
 the sugar, take them out, and shake them 
 backwards and forwards over the oiled moulds 
 or whatever else is to be covered. The manu- 
 facture of spun sugar belongs rather to the skill 
 of the confectioner, however, than to that of the 
 cook. 
 
 SUGAR BROWNING, FOR COLOURING SOUPS, 
 SAUCES, AND MADE DISHES. 
 When sauces and made dishes need to be 
 thickened as well as browned, roux or brown 
 thickening should be used. When the colour 
 only is required, it may often be sufficiently 
 imparted by means of a little claret or mush- 
 room ketchup, or by frying the meat and onions . 
 used till they are a light-brown colour, or by 
 stewing onion - skins or burnt onions in the 
 sauce. Some cooks adopt the slovenly and dan- 
 gerous practice of melting a knob of sugar in 
 an iron spoon and adding this to the prepara- 
 tion ; but this plan is almost certain to give to 
 the sauce a bitter, burnt taste. Sugar brown- 
 ing is a convenient preparation, which will give 
 to the sauce the requisite brown colour, and if 
 it be carefully made there will be no fear 
 that it will impart an unpleasant taste. To 
 make it, proceed as follows. Take a quarter 
 of a pound of good brown sugar; put it into a 
 delicately-clean saucepan, and stir it without 
 ceasing over a gentle fire till it melts and 
 begins to acquire a little colour. Draw it back, 
 and let it bake slowly, still stirring, until it is 
 almost black without being at all burnt. Pour 
 a quart of water upon it, let it boil gently until 
 dissolved, skim it, strain through muslin, put 
 the preparation when cold into small bottles. 
 stopper closely, and it will be fit for use. If 
 liked, this browning may be slightly flavoured 
 by the addition, of ketchup, cloves, onions, 
 pepper, and salt ; but it is more likely to be 
 generally useful if it is quite plain. Time to 
 prepare, about an hour. Sufficient, a few drops 
 will colour a pint of gravy. 
 SUGAR, BURNT, OR CARAMEL. 
 
 (See Caeamel, or Burnt Sugar.) 
 SUGAR CAKES. 
 
 Rub half a pound of fresh butter to cream; 
 then add half a pound of powdered sugar, three 
 well-whisked eggs, one pound of flour, and as 
 much milk as will form a dough. The milk and 
 flQur should be added alternately. Boll the 
 
8UG 
 
 883 
 
 SUG 
 
 pastry out, cut it into small round cakes, and 
 bake these on a floured tin in a moderate oven. 
 
 SUGAR, CLARIFIED, FOR FRESH-WATER ICES. 
 
 Break two pounds of refined sugar into small 
 pieces, and put these into a saucepan with two 
 pints of cold water. Let the sugar dissolve, 
 then add a tea-spoouful of white of egg lightly 
 beaten. As the scum rises take it off, and keep 
 the su^ar boiling until the scum ceases to rise. 
 When it is quite clear, strain it through muslin, 
 and it will be fit for use. If liked, it may be 
 put into a bottle and closely stoppered. It will 
 keep for some time. Time to boil, ten minutes. 
 
 SUGAR, COLOURED. 
 
 Crush some lump sugar coarsely. Drop a 
 little prepared oocluneal upon the palms of the 
 hands, and rub the sugar between them till it is 
 equally coloured. Put it in a warm place, and 
 ■when dry it will be ready for use. Spinach-juice 
 may be used to colour the sugar green, and an 
 infusion of saffron to colour it yellow. Choco- 
 late will impart a brown tint, and a little in- 
 digo a blue tint. Pink sugar-candy is very 
 pretty for ornamenting cakes and sweet dishes. 
 
 SUGAR, FISH PRESERVED WITH. 
 
 A method adopted in Portugal for preserving 
 fish consists in removing the viscera and sprink- 
 ling sugar over the interior, keeping the fish 
 in a horizontal position, so that the air may 
 penetrate as much as possible. It is said that 
 fish preserved in this way can be kept fresh for 
 a long time, the savour being as perfect as if 
 recently caught. Salmon thus treated before 
 salting and smoking possess a much more agree- 
 able taste, a table-spoonful of sugar being suffi- 
 cient for a five-pound fish. 
 
 SUGAR FOR JAMS. « 
 
 Cane loaf sugar is the best; but for jam for 
 immediate use moist sugar answers the purpose. 
 Loaf sugar should be broken into small lumps 
 in order that it may dissolve speedily, but it 
 should not be powdered. The scum may be 
 drained through a, coarse muslin laid over a 
 hair sieve, and the clear part that runs off may 
 be put back in the pan. 
 
 SUGAR FOR PUDDINGS. 
 
 For rice and other cereal puddings of a plain, 
 sort the best sugar is Demerara. It also does 
 for many other puddings where fruit is used. 
 Pale moist sugar is good for similar purposes. 
 Castor sugar should be used for the best pud- 
 dings. Where a custard is prepared, pure cane 
 sugar should be dissolved in the milk. Moist 
 sugar should never be used for any pudding of 
 a delicate kind. 
 
 SUGAR ICINGS AND GLAZINGS, FOR CAKES, 
 ETC. 
 
 Take two pounds of icing sugar in a bowl. 
 Throw in the whites of two, or if necessary 
 three, eggs. The whites must not be whisked, 
 but thrown in as they are. Beat the mixture 
 well with a wooden spoon or fork. Add a tea- 
 epoonful of lemon-juice, a, few drops at a time. 
 When a smooth paste which will not run is 
 produced, the icing is ready. It should be 
 spread evenly over the cake (which has been 
 already baked and allowed to cool) with hands 
 which have been well wetted with cold water. 
 
 It may be coloured, if liked, with cochineal, etc. 
 If it is wisjied to ornament the cake with an ice 
 beading, put a little of the icing into a small 
 piece of white paper twisted into the form of 
 a white sugar-bag. Squeeze this so that the 
 sugar will come out through the hole at the 
 bottom in a thin stream, and with this form any 
 suitable devices on the cake. To impart to 
 pastry a clear glaze which resembles barley- 
 sugar, dip the surface of the pastry into liquid 
 caramel (see Sugab Boiling), or sift powdered 
 and dry white sugar thickly upon it, and melt 
 it by holding a salamander or red-hot shovel 
 close to it. This glaze needs to be carefully 
 preserved from damp. The icing must be dried 
 in a cool oven. 
 
 SUGAR PASTE, FOR TARTS, ETC. 
 
 Rub four ounces of fresh butter into a pound 
 of flour; add~a little salt and three ounces of 
 sugar. Work the whole into a smooth paste 
 with an egg and a little water. Use as required. 
 
 SUGAR ROLY-POLY. 
 
 Make a good suet crust ; roll it out as is usual 
 in making roly-poly pudding, and instead of 
 jam spread brown sugar upon it. Finish in the 
 usual way, or send melted butter sweetened 
 with sugar and flavoured with vinegar or lemon- 
 juice to table with it. 
 
 SUGAR, SMALL ORNAMENTS OF. 
 
 Soak a little gum tragacanth in water. Make 
 it into a paste by mixing double refined pow- 
 dered sugar upon it. Colour this with cochineal, 
 spinach-juice, yolk of egg, chocolate, or indigo, 
 etc., to give it the desired tinge, and mould it 
 to any shape. Pretty ornaments may be thus 
 made for cakes and sweet dishes. 
 
 SUGAR VINEGAR. 
 
 Put eight pounds of the coarsest and cheapest 
 moist sugar into five gallons of water. Stir the 
 liquor well, boil it, skimming carefully till the 
 scum ceases to rise. Pour it into a cask, and 
 when it is lukewarm put into it a thick piece of 
 toast well covered with fresh yeast. Leavd it 
 open for four or five days, then paste a piece of 
 paper over the bung-hole, and prick it m three 
 or four places with a pin. Keep it in a warm 
 dry place till it is ready, then draw it off, and 
 bottle it. Before bottling it, boil it a quarter 
 of a minute, as this will keep it from becoming 
 thick and cloudy. The vessels containing the 
 vinegar should not be quite filled, nor should 
 the vinegar be kept entirely from the air. If 
 this vinegar is made in March or April, it will 
 be ready for bottling in September. 
 
 SUGAR VINEGAR (another way). 
 
 To every gallon of water add two pounds of 
 brown sugar and a little yeast. Have it exposed 
 to the Bun for six months in a vessel lightly 
 stopped. 
 
 SUGAR VINEGAR, STRONG. 
 
 Put a gallon of water into a stewpan with 
 seven pounds of coarse moist sugar, stir it for 
 a minute or two, then boil it for half an hour, 
 and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Pour 
 it out, and when it is new-milk-warm, or from 
 60° to 65° Fahrenheit, put into it a thick 
 piece of toast well covered with fresh yeast. 
 Let it stand for two days, and stir frequently. 
 
SUG 
 
 884 
 
 SUM 
 
 Put it into a cask, paste a piece of paper over 
 the bung-hole, and put it in a warm dry place. 
 Let the liquid stand till ready, then bottle 
 for use. This strong vinegar will be found ex- 
 cellent for all purposes. 
 
 SUGAR, WHOLESOMENESS OF. 
 
 Sugar is nutritious, antiseptic, and laxative. 
 In moderate quantities it is wholesome, but 
 from its tendency to ferment it is apt in some 
 constitutions to produce flatulency, heat, and 
 thirst. It should not be made too free with 
 by those who wish to preserve their teeth white 
 and sound. 
 
 SULTANA CAKE. 
 
 Eub three ounces of butter into eight ounces 
 of flour, add four ounces of sultanas picked, and 
 four ounces of castor sugar. Beat up two eggs 
 well, strain them, and add a table-spoonful of 
 milk to them. Add to the other ingredients, 
 and incorporate thoroughly by beating for a 
 few minutes. Line a cake-tin with buttered 
 paper, and pour in the mixture, which should 
 about half fill it. Bake in a moderate oven for 
 three-quarters of an hour, covering the ^p with 
 buttered paper when half done. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 SULTANA RAISINS. 
 
 Sultana raisins hardly possess sufficient flavour 
 to be used alone in puddings or c^kes, but they 
 are excellent when mixed with other kinds, such 
 as Valencias or muscatels. They are very con- 
 venient because they are stoneless, though they 
 have a good many little stalks about them 
 which need to be carefully picked out before 
 the raisins are used. 
 
 SUMMER BEVERAGES. 
 
 Recipes for various summer beverages will be 
 found under their respective headings. We 
 give here, however, a few additional recipes. 
 
 Aerated Beverages. — These may be enjoyed 
 in every household by the employment of a 
 gazogene. This is a portable apparatus for 
 aerating water and other liquids. It is to be 
 obtained in many different forms, but in all the 
 principle is the same. In one compartment 
 powders are placed for generating carbonic acid 
 gas, in another is the liquid to be aerated. 
 The two compartments communicate with each 
 other by a suitable tube, and a second tube 
 furnished with a spring tap affords a means of 
 exit for the aerated liquid. By means of the 
 gazogene water, wine, ale, etc., may in a few 
 minutes be rendered brisk and piquant by 
 means of carbonic acid. By the employment of 
 fruit syrups manufactured from English and 
 foreign fruits, the most delicious aerated sum- 
 mer beverages may be produced. 
 
 " Somba." — This is a pleasant drink common 
 in Italy. It is made by blanching about two 
 ounces of sweet almonds, and rubbing them 
 down to a smooth pulp in a mortar with an 
 equal weight of sugar ; to this a single bitter 
 almond should be added, and also rubbed down 
 to a paste. One quart of water should be 
 gradually added in a fine stream to this pulp, 
 a,n assistant keeping the pestle continually roll- 
 ing to ensure perfect admixture. This is pecu- 
 liarly grateful and delicate in taste. 
 
 Cheese or Mill; Whey. — This is an excellent 
 drink in summer-time. So also is buttermilk. 
 
 especially when the cows feed on good fresh 
 herbage. In northern countries, buttermilk is 
 kept till it becomes sour, and separates into 
 a curd or whey, which possesses considerable 
 acidity, but notwithstanding is exceedingly 
 wholesome, and forms a refreshing beverage. 
 In the North it is a common drink with la- 
 bourers. 
 
 Cider Cup. — Take two pint bottles of cider, 
 two glassfuls of sherry, and one of liqueur. Add 
 the juice of one lemon and half of the peel cut 
 thin, two table-spoonfuls of pounded sugar, and 
 the white of an egg beaten to a froth and 
 poured over the mixture. Ice well. 
 
 Cool Tankard. — Put into a quart of mild ale 
 a wine-glassful of white wine, the same of 
 brandy and capillaire, the juice of a Temon, and 
 a little piece of the rind. Add a sprig of borage 
 or balm, a bit of toasted bread, and nutmeg, 
 grated, on the top. 
 
 Cooling Drink. — Dissolve six table - spoonfuls 
 of pounded sugar in a tumblerful of water, pour 
 it into a large jug with a bottle of claret; stir, 
 and add one bottle of champagne and two of 
 soda-water, and ice well. 
 
 Cranberry Drink. — Put a tea-cupful of cran- 
 berries into a cupful of water, and mash them. 
 Boil, in the meantime, two quarts of water with 
 one large spoonful of oatmeal and a bit of 
 lemon-peel; add the cranberries, and sugar (but 
 not too much, otherwise the fine sharpness of 
 the fruit will be destroyed), and a quarter of a 
 pint of white wine, or less, according to taste ; 
 boil for half an hour, and strain. 
 
 Curds and Whey (a cheap method). — ^Add six 
 grains of citric acid to a wine-glassful of milk, 
 and the result will be a pleasant acidulous whey 
 and a fine curd. 
 
 Curds and Whey (Italian method). — Take 
 several of the rough coats that line the gizzards 
 of turkeys and fowls, cleanse from the dirt, rub 
 well with salt, and hang them up to dry; when 
 required for use, break off some of the skin, 
 pour boiling water on, digest for eight or nine 
 hours, and use the same as rennet. 
 
 Fruit Beverages. — These may be manufactured 
 from nearly all the fruits which can be made 
 into jams. The jam is to be prepared as usual, 
 and a small portion, say ajbout two ounces, 
 stirred in a quart of water. For summer use 
 the following jams or pulps are specialW re- 
 freshing. Tamarinds (very much used in Italy, 
 especially in conjunction with effervescent 
 waters), black currant jelly, raspberry jam, vine- 
 gar, or syrup, apple jelly, and quince jam. 
 
 Ginger Beer (Dr. Kitchener's recipe). — To 
 eleven gallons of water put ten pounds of loaf 
 sugar, half a pound of bruised ginger, the rind 
 of four lemons, and the whites of four eggs 
 beaten into a firm froth; mix them all well 
 together while cold, and put the preparation 
 into a copper. As soon as it boils, skim it well, 
 and then pour it into a cooler, and put to it 
 two ounces of cream of tartar and the inside of 
 six lemons sliced and the pips taken out. When 
 it is nearly cold, put into a cloth four table- 
 spoonfuls of yeast, and pour the lig^uor in upon 
 it over a cask. When done working, bung it 
 up, and let it stand a fortnight; then bottle 
 it off, and it will be fit for drinking in about ten 
 days. 
 
SUM 
 
 885 
 
 SUM 
 
 dinger Beer (other ways). — Take a pound and 
 a halt of common brown sugar or treacle, a 
 gallon and a half of water, an ounce of ground 
 ginger, and a lemon if liked. Boil, and then 
 add yeast. 2. — Dissolve four ounces of candied 
 ginger in two gallons and a quarter of boiling 
 water, add two pounds of sugar, one ounce 
 of powdered citric acid, when nearly cold, and 
 two table-spoonfuls of yeast. 
 
 Lemonade. — This favourite beverage is easily 
 made and extremely refreshing. To make a 
 quart, take two lemons or more, according to 
 taste, pare off thinly a little of the rind, or rub 
 lumps of sugar upon it. Squeeze out the juice 
 of the fruit, and mix with it two ounces of 
 white sugar, including what has been rubbed 
 upon the lemons. Add boiling hot water, and 
 when cool enough strain the liquor. Dilute the 
 preparation with water to the strength required. 
 Should lemons not be in season, syrup of 
 lemons may be used, or crystallised citric acid 
 and sugar, adding a few drops of the essence of 
 lemon. Lemonade, like all similar drinks, is 
 rendered much more refreshing by being iced. 
 
 Lemonade (au lait). — ^Take half a pint of 
 lemon-juice, the same of white wine, three- 
 quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, and a quart of 
 boiling water. Mix, and when cold add a pint 
 of hailing milk. Let it stand twelve hours, then 
 pour through a jelly-bag. This makes two 
 quarts ; about seven lemons will produce half a 
 pint of juice. 
 
 Lemonade (Soyer's recipe). — Thinly peel the 
 third part of a lemon, which put into a basin 
 with two table-spoonfuls of sugar. Roll the. 
 lemon with your hand upon the table to soften 
 it; cut it in two lengthwise, squeeze the juice 
 over the peel, etc., stir round for a minute with 
 a spoon to form a sort of syrup, pour over a 
 pint of water, mix well, and remove the pips; 
 it will then be ready for use. If a very large 
 lemon and full of juice and very fresh, you may 
 make a pint and a half to a quart, adding 
 sugar and. peel in proportion to the increase of 
 water. The juice only of the lemon and sugar 
 will make lemonade, but it will then be de- 
 prived of the aroma which the rind contains, the 
 said rind being' generally thrown away. 
 
 Mint Julep. — Put about a dozen of the young 
 sprigs of mint into a tumbler. Add a table- 
 spoonful of white sugar, half a win^-glassful 
 of peach brandy, and the same of French brandy, 
 then fill up the tumbler with pounded ice. 
 
 Nectar. — This is a very simple and pleasant 
 drink, and generally liked. Dissolve two 
 pounds of loaf sugar in three quarts of hot 
 water. When cool, add quite half an ounce of 
 tartaric or, preferably, citric acid, and a tea- 
 spoonful of fresh essence of lemon. Colour 
 according to fancy with burnt sugar, strain, 
 and bottle. This preparation will keep two or 
 three weeks, and is the better for being made a 
 few days before it is wanted. 
 
 Orangeade. ■ — Squeeze out the juice of an 
 orange, pour boiling water on a little of the 
 peel, and cover it close. Boil water and sugar 
 to a thin syrup, and skim it. When all are 
 cold, mix the juice, the infusion, and the syrup 
 with as much more water as will make a rich 
 drink. Strain through a jelly-beg, and ice. 
 
 Orgeat. — Blanch and pound three-quarters of 
 
 a pound of 8weet almonds and thirty bitter 
 ones with a table-spoonful of water. Stir in 
 by degrees two pints of water and three pints 
 of milk, and strain the whole through a cloth. 
 Dissolve half a pound of loaf sugar in a pint of 
 water, boil, skim well, and mix with the almond 
 water, adding two table-spoonfuls of orange- 
 flower water, and a tea-cupful of good brandy. 
 
 Quince Sijruj}. — Grate quinces, pass the pulp 
 through a sieve, then set it before the fire for 
 the juice to settle and clarify; strain, and add 
 a pound of sugar (boiled down) to every four 
 ounces of juice; remove frow the iire, and when 
 cold bottle for use. A tarftte'Spoonrul of this 
 syrup will flavour a pint of water. 
 
 Baspberry Vinegar. — This is made by squeez- 
 ing the juice of three quarts of raspberries into 
 a. quart of vinegar, and then simmering the 
 vinegar for about a quarter of an hour with two 
 pounds of sugar in an earthen pipkin not glazed 
 with lead. When cold it is to be corked ; and a 
 small spoonful of this in a glassful of water 
 makes a very cooling and refreshing drink. 
 (For other ways see Raspbeeky Yineoab.) 
 
 Sherry Cobbler. — Take some very fine and 
 clean ice, break it into small pieces, fill a 
 tumbler to within an inch of the top with it, 
 put in a table-spoonful of plain syrup, capillaire, 
 or any other flavour — some prefer strawberry — 
 add the quarter of the zest of a lemon and a 
 few drops of the juice. Fill with sherry, stir it 
 up, and let it stand for flve or six minutes. Sip 
 gently through a straw. 
 
 Sodiac Powders. — Take flve drachms of citric 
 or tartaric acid, pound it flue, and divide it into 
 twelve parts, folding each in a white paper. Take 
 six drachms of carbonate of soda, pound it fine, 
 and fold it in blue papers. Half fill two half- 
 pint tumblers with water; stir into one a pow- 
 der from the white paper, in the other one from 
 the blue ; when the powders are quite dissolved 
 pour one to the other, and perfect soda-water 
 will be instantaneously produced in its utmost 
 perfection. 
 
 Snpreme Nectar. — Put into a nine-gallon' cask 
 six pounds of moist sugar, five ounces of bruised 
 ginger, four ounces of cream of tartar, four 
 lemons, eight ounces of -veast, and seven gallons 
 of boiling water. Wffrk two or three days, 
 strain; add one pint of brandy, bung very close, 
 and in fourteen days bottle and wire down. 
 
 Tamarind Drink. — Boil three pints of water 
 with an ounce and a, half of tamarinds, three 
 ounces of currants, and two ounces of stoned 
 raisins, till about a third has evaporated. 
 Strain, add a bit of lemon-peel, which is to be 
 removed in half an hour, then cool. 
 
 Vinegao" and Water. — " It is commonly known 
 that cold water is dangerous when used by 
 persons heated with labour or by any severe 
 exercise; and yet it is necessary to supply the 
 waste and exhaustion of perspiration in some 
 way or other. When spirits or wine are added 
 in small quantities to the water it may be used, 
 even if cold, with little danger; but severe 
 labour or exercise exmtes a danger of fever, and 
 that fever is increased by spirits or fermented 
 liquor of any kind. On this account. Dr. Rush, 
 in one of his publications, recommends that 
 labourers in the fields, particularly at har- 
 vest-time, should allay their thirst by water 
 
SUM 
 
 886 
 
 sus 
 
 containing a small quantity of vinegar (about a 
 tea-spoonful to half a pint of water), which 
 would have the desired effect without stimu- 
 lating or increasing the heat of the body; and 
 he states that those labourers who have used 
 this beverage have found themselves more re- 
 freshed and less exhausted at night than when 
 they drank water with spirits. This is not a 
 modern practice merely; for the Bomans used 
 Tinegar to mix with water for the drink of their 
 soldiers." 
 
 SUMMER DIET. 
 
 With change of weather all sensible people 
 change their diet. In summer fish should re- 
 place meat both at breakfast and luncheon, 
 while fresh salads and well-cooked fruit should 
 be taken instead of indigestible pastry and in- 
 nutritious confections. Milk may be taken by 
 children and young people up to eighteen years 
 of age, or, for those who prefer it, the milk may 
 be combined with some natural mineral water. 
 No more powerful stimulant should be taken 
 than claret or sherry by those who feel they 
 must have something more than water, while 
 they who are wise will adopt the most simple 
 fofm of diet, and avoid all unnatural extremes. 
 SUMMER FRUIT SALAD. 
 
 Take one or two kinds of freshly-gathered 
 finely-flavoured fruit. Pick it, put it into a 
 glass dish, and stir into it a dessert-spoonful of 
 sherry, a dessert-spoonful of water, and three 
 table-spoonfuls of powdered loaf sugar to each 
 pint of fruit. Let it remain in a cool place 
 for an hour or two, and serve with cream instead 
 of a tart. 
 
 SUMMER PUDDING. 
 
 Beat five table-spoonfuls of flour smoothly 
 with a quarter of a pint of milk. Add gradually 
 three-quarters of a pint of boiling milk, and boil 
 the mixture, stirring it all the time, for five 
 minutes. Pour it out, and let it become par- 
 tially copl, then add two fresh eggs and half a 
 tea-cupful of sugar. Beat the batter briskly 
 for a few minutes, and stir in a tea-cupful of 
 fresh summer fruit of any kind. Put the mix- 
 ture into a buttered bowl, tie it securely in a 
 floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and 
 keep it boiling quickly till done enough. Turn 
 it out, and serve immediately. Send sweet 
 sauce or powdered sugar to table with it. Time 
 to boil, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 9d. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 SUMMER VEGETABLE SALAD. 
 
 Take half a pound of raw artichoke bottoms, 
 half a pound of fresh cucumber, and the heart of 
 a firm fresh lettuce. Divide into thin slices (the 
 cucumber having of course been peeled before 
 it was cut), and sprinkle a little salt over the 
 vegetables. Cover the dish, and let it remain 
 untouched for two hours. Drain off the liquor, 
 and add four table-spoonfuls of pickled red cab- 
 bage, or six or eight red radishes cut up small. 
 Pour some ^ood salad-sauce over all, toss the 
 vegetables lightly togethei^ and serve. Half 
 an ounce of mixed chervil-leaves mixed with 
 the salad will improve its flavour. 
 
 SUNDAY PUDDING. 
 
 Take half a pound of raisins, and half a pound 
 of currants, a quarter of a pound of suet chopped 
 
 fine, a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, a 
 table-spoonful of flour, half a glass of brandy, 
 a small piece of lemon-peel chopped fine, three 
 ounces of moist sugar, four beaten eggs, and a 
 tea-cupful of milk. Mix all these ingredients 
 well together, put into a pudding-mould, and 
 boil for four hours. Probable cost Is. 6d. 
 
 SUPERIOR SAUCE FOR FLAVOURING STEWS, 
 ETC. 
 
 Take one table-spoonful of finely-grated horse- 
 radish, mix with it a table-spoonful of curry- 
 powder, a salt-spoonful of cayenne, the grated 
 rind of a fresh lemon, a tea-spoonful of ground 
 ginger, a tea-spoonful of mustard-seed, a quarter 
 of a nutmeg, grated, a salt-spoonful of celery- 
 seed, half a dozen pickled walnuts, and an ounce 
 of garlic. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, 
 and pour upon them' a quart of ketchup, a pint 
 of port, half n pint of soy, the strained juice of 
 three lemqns, and a table-spoonful of essence 
 of anchovy. Bottle the mixture, cork closely, 
 and store in a warm place. Shake the bottle 
 occasionally, and also before using the sauce. 
 It may be used at the end of a week or two. 
 
 SUPERLATIVE SOUP (Dr. Kitchener's recipe). 
 
 Take four pounds of the shin of beef, and cut 
 it into six pieces. Fry a large onion, cut small, 
 in dripping, add the pieces of meat, and shake 
 the pan to keep them from burning. Dredge 
 upon them gradually six ounces of flour, and 
 stir all well together for five minutes. Pour in 
 gradually three quarts of boiling water. Let 
 the liquor boil, and carefully remove the scum 
 as it rises. Add salt and pepper and a, tea- 
 spoonful of ground allspice. Draw the pan to 
 the side, and simmer its contents gently for 
 three hours and a half. Take the meat out, and 
 serve it on a dish separately, with dressed vege- 
 tables. Serve the soup in a tureen. Time, 
 three hours and a half to simmer the liquor. 
 
 SUPREME SAUCE. 
 
 Supreme sauce is very highly esteemed, yet 
 cooks do not always agree as to the mode of 
 preparing it. Two methods are here given. 
 No. 1. — Take half a pint of stock which has been 
 made with veal and chicken bones. Thicken 
 this with white roux, and stir it until it is 
 smooth and coats the spoon. Take equal por- 
 tions of parsley, cress, and tarragon-leaves. Put 
 these into scalding water for two minutes ; then 
 drain and mince them finely. Stir a dessert- 
 spoonful of the chopped herbs into the sauce, 
 and add salt and white pepper. Carefully add 
 a dessert-spoonful of strained lemon-juice to 
 the sauce before serving. No. 2. — ^Put the bones 
 of a dressed chicken into a saucepan with an 
 onion, a small bunch of sweet herbs, and a little 
 pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Pour upon 
 them a pint of good veal stock, and simmer this 
 till it is strong and pleasantly flavoured. Strain 
 it, thicken it with white roux, and boil it fill 
 the sauce coats the .spoon. Pour it out, stir 
 into it a small slice of fresh butter until dis- 
 solved, and add a flavouring of milk of almonds. 
 This sauce is generally poured over the fish or 
 meat with which it is served. 
 
 SUSSEX FRITTERS. 
 
 Take half a pound of cold boiled potatoes- 
 and rub them through a sieve. Mix into then 
 
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 two ounces of finely-minced ham, a tea-spoonful 
 of chopped parsley, the beaten yolk of an egg, 
 and pepper and salt to taste. Make into small 
 balls or cakes, egg and bread-crumb them, and 
 fry to a golden brown. Serve in a dish with 
 layers of rolled bacon. Probable cost, 6d. 
 SUSSEX PUDDING. 
 
 Mix ingredients as for ordinary suet pudding. 
 Make them into a stiff paste with cold water, 
 and knead it well. Boll it to the shape of a bol- 
 ster, tie it in a cloth, plunge it into boiling 
 water, and let it boil quickly for an hour. Take 
 it up, cut it into slices the third of an inch thick, 
 and put these into the dripping-tin under a 
 roasting joint. When they are slightly browned 
 and soaked with dripping, serve them with the 
 meat. Time to soak in the dripping, about 
 twenty minutes. Sufficient for four or five per- 
 sons. Probable cost, 2d. 
 SUSSEX WHIPS. 
 
 Mix well together in a basin half a pint of 
 thick cream, half a pint of brandy, a quarter of 
 a pound of powdered sugar, a squeeze of lemon- 
 juice, and a lump of sugar that has been rubbed 
 on the rind of a lemon. When mixed thoroughly 
 whisk the whole in a large basin, and as the 
 froth rises take it off with a spoon, and fill 
 custard cups with it. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 SWAN. 
 
 Two or three hundred years ago the swan was 
 looked upon as an elegant, fashionable dish. 
 Now swans are but seldom dressed for the table, 
 though their flesh is said to be both tender and 
 delicious. Occasionally at special dinners a 
 swan makes part of the bill of fare, and is 
 always highly appreciated. The young birds, or 
 cygnets, only are chosen. If any feel inclined 
 to experiment upon this unusual dish, they will 
 find, in addition to the following recipe, full 
 directions given under the heading Cysnet. 
 
 SWAN, POTTED. 
 
 Skin the swan, and take out all the bones ; cut 
 the flesh into small pieces, and pound them in 
 a mortar. Pound also with them some clean fat 
 bacon, adding a little at a time. Beat this up 
 with the flesh of the swan, so as to incorporate 
 the two like an amalgam. When the mass has 
 assumed a light flesh-colour, no more bacon 
 need be added. Continue to beat the meat 
 until it is of the consistency of dough. Season 
 it with salt, pepper, cloves, mace, and nutmeg, 
 all finely powdered and well mixed and beaten 
 up with it. Put the mass now into a baking-pan 
 with a good glassful of port wine and the same 
 quantity of water; cover the top with two 
 pounds of cold fresh butter. Cover the pan with 
 a coarse paste of flour and water. Bake it in 
 an oven heated as for bread. When it is done, 
 take off the crust, turn out the meat into a dish, 
 and having gently squeezed the moisture out of 
 it, put it into pots. When cold pour over it 
 clarified butter. 
 SWEDES. 
 
 Peel and cut the swedes into quarters in the 
 same manner as ordinary turnips, and boil them 
 in salted water until tender. Then drain them, 
 and mash them smoothly with two ounces of 
 butter, a table-spoonful of cream, and plenty of 
 pepper. 
 
 SWEDISH SALAD. 
 
 Take a couple of pickled herrings, cut off the 
 heads and tails, remove the bones, and divide 
 the flesh into dice. Mix with these two apples, 
 peeled and sliced, two large boiled potatoes cut 
 into dice, an equal quantity of cold roast beef, 
 and a little sliced beetroot. Add a table-spoon- 
 ful of sliced gherkins, a table-spoonful of capers, 
 a table-spoonful of shredded tarragon-leaves, 
 two table-spoonfuls of chopped chervil, and a 
 hard-boiled egg finely minced. Season the salad 
 rather highly with pepper, salt, oil, and vinegar. 
 Put the whole in a salad-bowl and serve. A 
 dozen or more freshly-opened oysters may, if 
 liked, be laid upon the top of the salad, and 
 various additions may be made to it. Picked 
 shrimps, filleted anchovies, dressed Brussel 
 sprouts, olives, curled celery, and green onions 
 may all be introduced at discretion, and any 
 other kind of dried or pickled fish may be used 
 instead of herrings, if preferred. 
 
 SWEETBREAD. 
 
 This is the pancreas of the animal, and 
 is both nutritious and delicate. Sweetbreads 
 should be chosen a-s fresh as possible, as 
 they very quickly spoil. There are two 
 sorts — heart sweetbreads and throat sweet- 
 breads. The heart sweetbreads are the best, 
 and also the most expensive. In whatever way 
 sweetbreads are dressed, they should first be 
 soaked in lukewarm water for a couple of hours. 
 They should then be put into boiling water and 
 simmered gently for five or ten minutes, accord- 
 ing to size, and when taken up they should be 
 laid in cold water. Sweetbreads vary consider- 
 ably in price, according to the time of the 
 year. They are quite as frequently employed 
 as ingredients in sundry made dishes, such as 
 vol-au-vents, ragouts, etc., as served alone, and 
 as they do not possess a very decided natural 
 flavour they need to be accompanied by a highly- 
 seasoned sauce, or they will taste rather insipid. 
 They are in full season from May to August. 
 
 SWEETBREAD AND TONGUE CUTLETS. 
 
 Take some thin slices of cooked tongue and 
 sweetbread, dip them in thick white sauce, and 
 put them together in four layers. The top layer 
 should be tongue, and that must be dipped in 
 sauce on the underside only. Coat with pale 
 aspic, and lay in the centre a star cut from a 
 truffle or pickled walnut. Put tiny shreds of 
 cress or chervil round. 
 
 SWEETBREAD BOUCHEES (a la Russe). 
 
 Line some little deep dariole moulds with pale 
 yellow aspic, put some tiny stars of truffles at 
 the bottom, and sprinkle over chopped parsley 
 and chervil. Mix together some cooked sweet- 
 bread and ham in tiny dice shapes; moisten 
 them with bechamel and mayonnaise in equal 
 parts ; fill up the moulds with the sweetbread 
 and ham, and pour more aspic on the top. Turn 
 out when set, and dish each mould in a little 
 bed of MaceDOINB 01" VbObtablbs (which see) 
 tossed in mayonnaise. Probable cost, 3s. per 
 dozen. 
 SWEETBREAD CUTLETS, WITH TOMATO SAUCE. 
 
 Take the required number of sweetbreads. 
 Prepare them by blanching, then parboil them, 
 and press them until cold. Slice them, cut them 
 
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 into proper shapes, egg and bread-crumb them, 
 and fry in hot fat until they are of a bright 
 brown colour. From the trimmings of the sweet- 
 breads, and an equal amount of cooked ham or 
 tongue, make a mince, and mix it with a little 
 bechamel sauce. Cut some rounds of truffle, 
 and ham or tongue, and heat them in a little 
 stock. Prepare a sauce by mixing a gill and 
 a half of tomato pulp with the same measure 
 of white sauce ; season, and add a table-spoonful 
 of sherry; colour with carmine or cochineal. 
 Place a ring of fried bread on the dish 
 with a high croustade inside it; arrange the 
 rounds of truffle and tongue on the ring, rest 
 the cutlets against the croustade, over which 
 should be poured the mince, so that it shows 
 between the cutlets. Garnish with whole 
 truffles, tongue, or cocks' combs, and pour the 
 sauce in the dish. 
 
 SWEETBREAD KROMESKIES. 
 
 Prepare the sweetbreads as for croquettes (see 
 Sweetbreads, Cboqttettes of). Let the pre- 
 paration get quite cold, then divide it into equal 
 portions, rolled to the shape of a cork. Place 
 each one of these upon cold boiled fat bacon 
 which has been cut into thin slices of a size that 
 will just envelop the mince. Set these on a 
 dish in a cool place till wanted. Dip them 
 separately into frying, batter, and fry them in 
 hot fat till they are crisp and lightly browned. 
 Drain them on a wire sieve covered with paper, 
 pile them on a napkin, then garnish with fried 
 parsley, and serve immediately. Time to fry 
 the kromeskies, three or four minutes. 
 
 SWEETBREADS {k la Dauphlne) 
 
 Take two perfectly-fresh sweetbreads. Let 
 them soak well in water for two hours, changing 
 the water occasionally. Put them into boiling 
 water, and let them simmer gently until they 
 are firm without being hard. Put them in cold 
 water for a few minutes, dry them, and lard 
 them evenly with thin strips of fat bacon. 
 Take a small stevrpan which has belonging to 
 it a lid to hold live embers. Butter the in- 
 side, and put into it a large carrot sliced and 
 a moderate-sized onion. Lay one or two slices 
 of bacon on the vegetables, then put in the 
 sweetbreads, together with half a pint of strong 
 brown gravy. Sprinkle a little salt over them, 
 and stew with a gentle fire under them and 
 plenty of heat on the top. Baste frequently 
 with the gravy until the sweetbreads are lightly 
 browned. Add more gravy as it is necessary. 
 Trim the sweetbreads neatly, put them on a 
 dish with the bacon under them, strain the gravy 
 upon them, and send dressed sorrel or endive 
 or tomato sauce to table with them. Time to 
 stsw the sweetbreads, three-quarters of an hour. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. to 5s. each. Sufficient for 
 a, small dish. 
 
 SWEETBREADS (a la MaHre d'Hotel). 
 
 Soak, blanch, cool, and trim the sweetbreads 
 in the usual way. Lay them in a saucepan, and 
 barely cover them with good veal gravy. Let 
 them stew gently until done enough. Lay them 
 on a. hot dish, and have the sauce ready pre- 
 pared to pour over them. This sauce may be 
 made as follows. Take half a pint of good 
 melted butter. Let it simmer a few minutes, 
 and skim it well, then stir into it a dessert- 
 
 spoonful of chopped parsley, the strained juice 
 of a small lemon, and a little salt and cayenne. 
 Take the sauce from the fire, let it cool a minute, 
 stir into it until dissolved a small piece of fresh 
 butter, and it will be ready for use. Time to 
 simmer the sweetbread, three-quarters of an 
 hour. Sufficient, a fine large sweetbread for 
 two persons. Probable cost. Is. 6d. to 5s. 
 
 SWEETBREADS AND PALATES, PIE OF. 
 
 Take an equal number of sweetbreads and 
 palates, and prepare them both in the usual 
 way. Let them stew till tender in good brown 
 gravy, and lay them in a dish. Let the sauce 
 cool a little, stir into it the well-pounded yolks 
 of two hard-boiled eggs, and poiir it upon the 
 meat. Cover the dish with good pastry, and 
 bake in a well-heated oven. When the pastry 
 is done enough the pie will be ready for serving. 
 
 SWEETBREADS AND PALATES, STEWED. 
 
 Prepare both palates and sweetbreads in the 
 usual way. Cut them into moderate-sized 
 pieces, dredge flour upon them, and fry them 
 in hot fat till they are lightly browned. Put 
 them into a saucepan, and stew them slowly 
 in as much good veal gravy as will 
 barely cover them. Thicken the sauce with 
 brown thickening, season with pepper, salt, 
 grated lemon-rind and nutmeg, and add a glass- 
 ful of sherry or Madeira. Put the meat in 
 a dish, and pour the sauce over it. If liked, a 
 dessert-spoonful of vinegar or strained lemon- 
 juice may be added at the last moment. Time 
 to stew, about half an hour. 
 SWEETBREADS (au Gratin). 
 
 Take the remains of sweetbreads which have 
 been stewed in white or brown sauce. Put them 
 in a pie-dish, pour the cold sauce over them, and 
 cover the surface with finely-grated bread- 
 crumbs. Lay little pieces of butter here and 
 there on the top, and put the dish in a brisk 
 oven. When it is hot throughout it is done 
 enough. If the top is not brightly browned, a. 
 salamander or red-hot shovel may be held over 
 it to make it so. 
 
 SWEETBREADS, BAKED. 
 
 Soak the sweetbreads well in water for two 
 hours, and change the water once or twice during 
 the time. Throw them into boiling water, and 
 let them simmer gently for five minutes or more, 
 till they are firm and round, but not hard. Take 
 them up, drain them, and throw them into cold 
 water to cool. Brush them over in every part 
 with beaten egg, roll them in bread-crumbs, 
 sprinkle clarified butter upon them, and bread- 
 crumb them again. Put them in a baking-tin 
 with about two ounces of butter, and bake in a 
 well-heated oven ; baste them till they are done 
 enough and brightly browned. Take as many 
 slices of hot toast as there are sweetbreads. 
 Put them in a dish, lay the sweetbreads upon 
 them, pour brown gravy round, but not over 
 them, and serve immediately. Time to bake 
 from half to three-quarters of an hour, accord- 
 ing to size. Probable cost of sweetbreads. 
 Is. 6d. to 5s. each. 
 SWEETBREADS, BROILED OR GRILLED. 
 
 Take moderate-sized sweetbreads and prepare 
 them in the usual way. Stew them in good stock 
 till they are done enough. Then drain them, 
 
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 and press them between two dishes till cold. 
 Split them in halves and trim them neatly; 
 brush them over with butter, and broil them 
 over a clear but very gentle fire. Have a plate 
 with clarified butter upon it near the gridiron, 
 and keep dipping the sweetbreads in it, turning 
 them frequently. When they are brightly 
 browned all over they are done enough. Dish the 
 slices in a circle, and send brown sauce flavoured 
 with lemon-juice to table in a tureen. Time to 
 stew the sweetbreads, about half an hour. 
 
 SWEETBREADS, BROWNED. 
 
 Soak, blanch, and stew the sweetbreads in as 
 much good and nicely-flavoured stock as will 
 barely cover them. When they have simmered 
 about half an hour, take them up, and put them 
 into a round saucepan just large enough to hold 
 them with a good slice of fresh butter which is 
 melted and just beginning to brown. Turn 
 the sweetbreads over and over till they are 
 equally and brightly browned in every part. 
 Keep them hot by the side of the stove. 
 Thicken the stock in which they are boiled 
 with brown thickening. Flavour with mush- 
 room ketchup and lemon - juice, and add a 
 table-'spoonful of light wine. Place the sweet- 
 breads on a dish, pour the sauce over, and gar- 
 nish with toasted sippets, brain cakes, force- 
 meat balls, or any little adjuncts which are 
 suitable, and can be easily procured. Probable 
 cost of sweetbreads. Is. 6d. to 5s. 
 
 SWEETBREADS, COLD, TO RE-COOK. 
 
 Cut the cold sweetbreads into neat pieces. 
 Stew them gently in strong brown gravy till 
 they are quite hot throughout; place them on 
 a dish, pour the gravy over them, and garnish 
 ■with fried sippets. 
 
 SWEETBREADS, COTELETTES OF. 
 
 Procure the sweetbreads as fresh as possible. 
 Soak them for an hour. Throw them into boil- 
 ing water for five minutes, let them cool, then 
 simm«r them in rich, well-seasoned gravy. 
 Xeave them in the liquor till cold. Cut them 
 into pieces an inch square, put them on skewers 
 alternately with a little piece of bacon or a 
 piece of ready-cooked calf's udder, all being 
 made as nearly as possible of the same shape 
 and size. Dip them twice into egg and bread- 
 crumbs. Pat them into shape with a knife, and 
 fry in hot fat till they are lightly browned. 
 Send white or brown Italian sauce to table in 
 a tureen. Sometimes bearded oysters are put 
 upon the skewers with the sweetbreads and 
 bacon. Time, half an hour to simmer the sweet- 
 breads. Probable cost. Is. 6d. to 5s. each. 
 
 SWEETBREADS, CROQUETTES OF. 
 
 Take a cold dressed sweetbread, cut it into 
 quarter-inch dice, and mix with it its bulk in 
 mushrooms which have been cut in the same 
 way. Stir both together over a gentle fire in 
 some very thick white sauce, and pour the mix- 
 ture upon a dish. When quite cold, divide the 
 mixture into portions of an equal size, roll these 
 to the shape of balls or corks, dip them in egg 
 beaten up with pepper, salt, and oil, and roll 
 them in bread-crumbs. Pry in hot fat till crisp 
 and lightly browned, drain them, serve on a 
 hot napkin, and garnish with parsley. Time, 
 ten minutes to fry the croquettes. 
 
 SWEETBHIEADS, CROQUETTES OF (another way). 
 Take a cold cooked sweetbread, cut it up into 
 small pieces, and mix with it half its weight 
 in finely-grated bread-crumbs. Season the mix- 
 ture with salt, cayenne, grated lemon-rind, and 
 grated nutmeg. Put it into a saucepan with 
 as much cream or milk as will moisten the 
 crumbs, and stir briskly over a clear fire for ten 
 minutes. Spread the preparation on a dish, and 
 let it get quite cold. Form it into equal-sized 
 portions, roll these to the shape of corks or balls, 
 dip them in egg and bread-crumbs, and fry them 
 in hot fat till they are brightly browned. Drain 
 them before the fire, and serve as before. Time, 
 ten minutes to fry the croquettes. 
 
 SWEETBREADS, CUTLETS OF. 
 
 Soak and blanch two or more fine fresh sweet- 
 breads in the usual way. Let them simmer in 
 nicely-flavoured stock for half an hour, and let 
 them cool in the liquor. Drain and dry them in 
 a cloth, and cut them into slices an inch and a 
 quarter across. Dip them into beaten egg and 
 seasoned bread - crumbs, then into clarified 
 butter, and again into bread-crumbs. Pat them 
 into shape, and fry them in hot fat till they 
 are brightly browned. Drain them, pile them 
 on a dish, and pour round, but not upon them, 
 good brown gravy flavoured with mushroom and 
 lemon-juice, or with a glassful of white wine ; or 
 white sauce may be served with them. If liked 
 the cutlets may be placed upon a little piece 
 of fried bread of the same shape and size as they 
 are, or slices may be cut from a dressed tongue, 
 and these may be egged, breaded, and fried like 
 the slices of sweetbread. When the latter plan 
 is adopted, the sweetbread cutlets should be 
 laid upon the slices of tongue. Time to fry the 
 cutlets, three or four minutes. 
 
 SWEETBREADS, CUTLETS OF, FRICASSEED. 
 
 Prepare and fry the cutlets according to the 
 directions that have been already given. 
 Thicken a small quantity of nicely-seasoned 
 gravy with roux or brown thickening. Flavour 
 it with mushroom ketchup and lemon-juice, and 
 add a table-spoonful of sherry or Madeira. Put 
 in the fried slices, let them simmer gently for 
 a few minutes, and serve altogether on a dish. 
 
 SWEETBREADS (en Casserole). 
 
 Wash, trim, blanch, and lard the sweetbreads, 
 put them into a casserole with just enough 
 rich brown stock to cover them, and a bouquet 
 garni, and stir very gently for thirty to forty 
 minutes. Then lift out the sweetbreads and the 
 bouquet, and keep the former hot. Skim off all 
 the fat from the stock, add a gill or so of rich 
 brown sauce of any kind, boil it up sharply in a 
 hot oven, lay in the sweetbreads, sliced, with 
 some fried mushrooms, and let all heat well 
 together. Add a dust of pepper and a squeeze 
 of lemon-juiee, and serve. 
 
 SWEETBREADS, FRIED. 
 
 Soak the sweetbreads for an hour, plunge them 
 into boiling water for flve minutes, and throw 
 them into cold water till cool. Cut them in 
 slices, egg and bread-crumb them, dip them in 
 clarified butter, bread them again, and fry in 
 plenty of hot fat till they are brightly browned 
 on both sides. Drain them, and then dish on 
 toast, pouring cucumber sauce or maitre d'hotel 
 
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 sauce upon tliem. Time to fry the slices, about 
 ten. minutes. Probable cost. Is. 6d. to 5s. each. 
 
 SWEETBREADS, FRIED (simple method). , 
 
 Soak, blanch, and cool the sweetbreads. Dry 
 them, cut tJiem into slices, and dredge flour 
 upon them. Fry them in hot fat till they are 
 nicely browned, and pour good, nicely-flavoured 
 brown gravy over them. This is one of the most 
 simple methods of dressing sweetbreads. Time, 
 ten minutes to fry the slices. 
 
 SWEETBREADS, LARDED {k la Financiere). 
 
 Soak four sweetbreads, boil them quickly till 
 they are firm but not at all hard, cool them, 
 then lard them evenly and thickly with thin 
 strips of fat bacon. Butter a baking-dish, and 
 spread a layer of sliced carrots, onions, and 
 celery at the bottom. Lay the sweetbreads 
 upon the vegetables, and pour round them as 
 much stock as will barely come up to the lard- 
 ing. Put them in a sharp oven, and bake 
 until done enough, basting them frequently 
 with the liquor. When they are done enough, 
 and the surface is brightly browned, dish them 
 as follows. Put a croustade in a dish, and fill 
 it with TouLotrsB RagoOt (which see). Place 
 the sweetbreads against the sides of the crous- 
 tade, and garnish the dish as prettily as possible. 
 The croustade may be made as follows. Take 
 an oval loaf one day old. Cut off the round top, 
 and scoop out the crumb of the loaf, leaving 
 three-quarters of an inch of bread all roundl 
 and at the bottom. Pare away the crust and 
 dip the case into oiled butter. Put it in the 
 oven till it begins to harden, then again dip it 
 in butter, and place it again in the oven till it 
 acquires a little colour, when it will be ready for 
 use. Time to bake the sweetbreads, about half 
 an hour. 
 
 SWEETBREADS, MINCED, IN PAPER CASES. 
 
 Take some cold dressed sweetbreads, and cut 
 them into dice. Take an equal quantity of 
 mushrooms and cut them up also. Stew the 
 mushrooms in butter, and add a slice of fat 
 bacon, the sweetbreads, and a little parsley, 
 pepper, and salt. One or two shallots may be 
 added if liked. Simmer over a gentle fire till 
 the mushrooms are done enough. Drain off 
 the fat, take out the parsley, and place the pre- 
 paration in small paper cases which have been 
 thoroughly oiled. Sprinkle a pinch of savoury 
 herbs on the top, and cover each one with 
 finely-grated bread-crumbs. Put the cases in 
 the oven for a moment that they may be 
 thoroughly heated, squeeze into each a few drops 
 of lemon-juice, add a spoonful of rich gravy, 
 and serve very hot. Dish the minced sweet- 
 breads on a napkin. Time to simmer the mix- 
 ture, about a quarter of an hour. 
 
 SWEETBREADS, PATTIES OF. 
 
 Cold dressed sweetbread, if cut into quarter- 
 inch dice and prepared according to the direc- 
 tions already given for making sweetbread cro- 
 quettes, may be used for filling small patties or 
 vol-au-vent cases. They should be put into the 
 oven for a minute or two to make them quite 
 hot, and served on a hot napkin. This mince 
 may also be enclosed in a circular piece of 
 pastry of the size of a crown piece, and fried in 
 lot fat till the pastry is sufliciently cooked. 
 
 The patties should then be drained and piled on 
 a napkin. 
 
 SWEETBREADS, PIE OF. 
 
 Take two or more fresh sweetbreads. Soak, 
 blanch, and cool them, then cut each one into 
 three pieces, and simmer them in white stock 
 with about two dozen mushrooms. Let them 
 simmer for a quarter of an hour. Lay them 
 in a dish, put the mushrooms among them, and 
 also six or eight veal forcemeat balls, the green 
 tops of twenty-five sticks of asparagus, and the 
 hard-boiled yolks of three or four eggs. Thicken 
 the gravy with white thickening, add pepper and 
 salt if required, and pour it over the meat. 
 Lay slices of fat bacon on the top of the meat, 
 cover all with good pastry, and bake the pie in 
 a moderately-heated oven. Time, according to 
 size. Probable cost of sweetbreads. Is. 6d. to 
 5s. each. 
 
 SWEETBREADS, RASOUT OF. 
 
 Soak, blanch, and cool the sweetbreads, then 
 simmer them in nicely-seasoned stock for half 
 an hour. Let them cool, cut them into pieces 
 about an inch square and half an inch thick, 
 dry them perfectly, and flour them; then fry 
 them in butter till they are brightly browned. 
 Put into a saucepan a pint of stock, add a sliced 
 onion and a sliced carrot, both fried, a little 
 piece of bacon-rinS, a table-spoonful of mush- 
 room ketchup, a little salt and cayenne, and two 
 allspice. Add a spoonful of brown thickening, 
 and simmer the sauce for a quarter of an hour. 
 Strain it, and put the browned sweetbreads into 
 it for a few minutes. Place them on a dish, and 
 pour the sauce over them. Send rice boiled as 
 for curry, or a little macaroni to table on a 
 separate dish. Time, one hour, exclusive of the 
 time taken in preparing the sweetbreads foi 
 dressing. 
 
 SWEETBREADS, ROAST. 
 
 Soak the sweetbreads for a couple of hours, 
 plunge them into boiling water, boil them 
 quickly for five or ten minutes, and throw them 
 into cold water. Simmer them gently for 
 twenty minutes, dry them, dip them in clarified 
 butter, and cover them with highly-seasoned 
 bread-crumbs. Put a small skewer through 
 them, and tie them on a spit. Roast them gently 
 before a clear fire, and baste industriously 
 during the process. Serve on a hot dish, which 
 should be garnished with parsley and cut lemon. 
 Brown sauce or mushroom sauce may be sent 
 to table with the sweetbreads. If liked, thf 
 sweetbreads can be roasted in a Dutch oven 
 before the fire, instead of being tied to a spit. 
 They will need to be basted liberally, and to be 
 turned about that they may be equally browned. 
 Time, about twenty minutes to simmer the 
 sweetbreads ; half an hour to roast them. 
 
 SWEETBREADS, STEWED. 
 
 Soak two sweetbreads for an hour. Boil them 
 quickly for ten minutes, and put them into cold 
 water for twenty minutes. Lay them in a sauce- 
 pan, pour over them three-quarters of a pint 
 of white stock, and add a little pepper and salt 
 and a snjall pinch of powdered mace. Let them 
 simmer gently for half an hour. Take them 
 up, and put them in the oven to keep hot. 
 ITiicken the gravy with a little flour and butter. 
 
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 let it boil, and when it is smooth stir in four 
 table-spoonfuls of cream. Put the sweetbreads 
 on a dish. Add a dessert-spoonful of lemon- 
 juice to the sauce, and pour it over. Time to 
 stew the sweetbreads, half to three-quarters of 
 an hour, according to size. Probable cost. 
 Is. 6d. to 5s. each. 
 
 SWEETBREADS, VOL-AU-VENT OF. 
 
 Soak two large fine sweetbreads in water for a 
 couple of hours. Boil them quickly for ten 
 minutes, and throw them into cold water. When 
 cool, dry them perfectly, cut them into small 
 pieces, and dredge flour upon them. Melt two 
 ounces of butter in a saucepan, put in the pieces 
 of sweetbread, and add the third of a pint of 
 white stock, the strained juice of a lemon, two 
 table-spoonfuls of sherry or Madeira, a bunch 
 of sweet herbs, the thin rind of half a lemon, 
 half a blade of mace, two cloves, and a little 
 pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Let the sauce 
 boil up once, skim it, and let the sweetbreads 
 "dimmer gently until done enough. Take them 
 up, strain the sauce, and mix with it gradually 
 the yolks of two eggs beaten up with four table- 
 spoonfuls of cream. Stir the sauce over the 
 fire for a minute or two, but do not let it boil. 
 Make a vol-au-vent case four inches in diameter 
 (see VoL-AU-VEi<T). Bake it until done enough, 
 scoop out the centre, and fill it with the mince. 
 Serve the vol-au-vent very hot on a neatly- 
 folded napkin. This dish will be much improved 
 if a few mushrooms and browned potatoes are 
 added to the preparation. Clean and skin 
 eighteen or twenty button mushrooms, put them 
 into a saucepan, cover with boiling watej;, and 
 add the strained juice of a lemon and a little 
 salt. Let them boil quickly for ten or twelve 
 minutes. Make a dozen small balls of mashed 
 potatoes, dip these in egg, and make them hot 
 in the oven. Fill the vol-au-vent case (which, if 
 the mushrooms and potatoes are added, will 
 need to be six inches in diameter) with layers 
 «f sweetbread, potato balls, and mushrooms. 
 Pour the sauce over all, and serve. 
 
 SWEETBREADS, WHITE. 
 
 Soak, blanch, and cool the sweetbreads in the 
 usual way. Put into a saucepan of a size to 
 hold them conveniently, but no larger, as much 
 white stock as will barely cover the sweetbreads. 
 Thicken this with white roux or with a little 
 flour and butter, add a bunch of parsley, a 
 small onion, and a little pepper, salt, and grated 
 nutmeg. Let it simmer two or three minutes, 
 then add two table-spoonfuls of thick cream. 
 Put in the sweetbreads, and let them simmer 
 in the sauce until done enough. Take the herbs 
 out of the sauce, let it cool a minute, then mix 
 a spoonful of it with the yolk of an egg. Add 
 this gradually to the re^t of the sauce, stir it 
 until it is smooth, then put the sweetbreads on 
 a dish, and pour the sauce over them. Garnish 
 with parsley and lemon, or with a few mush- 
 rooms. If liked, the egg yolk may be omitted, 
 and a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice may be 
 added to the sauce, which should be rather 
 highly seasoned. White dishes should not be 
 insipid; though delicate, they should be 
 piquant. Time, half an hour to simmer the 
 sweetbreads. Probable cost. Is. 6d. to 5s. each. 
 Sufficient, one sweetbread for two persons. 
 
 SWEETBREADS, WITH MUSHROOM& 
 
 Soak, blanch, and trim two fine sweetbreads, 
 and lard them evenly with thin strips of fat 
 bacon. Slice a carrot, a turnip, a small onion, 
 and a few sticks of celery, and fry these vege- 
 tables in hot fat till they are lightly browned. 
 Drain away the fat, put the sweetbreads upon 
 the vegetables, and add as much stock as will 
 barely cover them, together with a little salt 
 and cayenne, a small lump of sugar, the thin 
 rind of half a lemon, as much grated nutmeg as 
 will lie on a threepenny-piece, a small blade of 
 mace, four allspice, and half a wine-glassful of 
 brandy. Let the sauce boil quickly, skim care- 
 fully, and then simmer the sweetbreads till done 
 enough. Take them up, put a little piece of 
 fresh butter on each, and place them in the 
 oven to keep them hot. Put into the gravy a 
 dozen small mushrooms which have been skinned 
 and cleaned, and add a tea-spoonful of tarragon 
 vinegar and a little brown thickening. Put the 
 sweetbreads again into the sauce, and let them 
 simmer for ten or fifteen minutes. Serve on 
 a hot dish with the sauce poured round them. 
 Time to simmer the sweetbreads, half to three- 
 quarters of an hour. Sufficient for four persons. 
 SWEETBREADS, WITH TRUFFLES. 
 
 Prepare the sweetbreads in the usual manner, 
 flour them, and bake in a gentle oven till they 
 are lightly browned. Baste frequently. Whilst 
 they are baking, prepare the sauce to be served 
 with them as follows. Peel half a dozen truffles, 
 and cut them into slices about the third of an 
 inch thick. Put these in a saucepan with a 
 large wine-glassful of Marsala, the strained 
 juice of a lemon, and a little salt and cayenne. 
 Let them simmer gently a few minutes, then 
 add a quarter of a pint of gfood stock. Thicken 
 the gravy with brown thickening, and let it 
 boil till smooth. Put in the sweetbreads, let 
 them simmer twenty minutes longer, and serve 
 very hot. Time, altogether, one hour. Prob- 
 able cost of sweetbreads. Is. 6d. to 5s. each. 
 SWEET HERBS. 
 
 The sweet herbs most frequently used in 
 cookery are parsley, thyme, marjoram, sage, 
 basil, savory, and mint. When they are not 
 stored for use they may be purchased of the 
 herbalist or greengrocer, or they may be bought 
 dried and in bottles of the grocer or Italian 
 warehouseman. When it is recommended that 
 a bunch of sweet herbs is to be used, it is to be 
 understood that a handful of parsley, a sprig of 
 thyme, and a bay-leaf are to be taken. To these 
 a bunch of sweet marjoram and a little piece 
 of garlic about the size of a pea may be added.. 
 When these ingredients are to be stewed in 
 soups or sauces they should be tied securely in 
 a bunch with the parsley outside. When thus 
 fastened together they are often spoken of as a 
 fagot or a bouquet garni. A properly-made 
 fagot is about three inches long. 
 SWEET HERBS, OMELET OF. 
 
 Prepare the omelet in the usual way. (See 
 Omelet, and Pbinciples of Cookebt, page vii.) 
 Before frying it, stir into it a very small quan- 
 tity of chopped sweet herbs. Parsley, chervil, 
 and chives are the herbs most frequently chosen. 
 Onions or shallots, thyme, and sage, may be 
 introduced if liked. 
 
SWE 
 
 892 
 
 SWI 
 
 SWEET JELLIES. 
 
 These preparations, though elegant in appear- 
 ance, and when nicely flavoured delicious to 
 the taste, are not really so nourishing as they 
 were at one time thought to be. Calf's foot 
 jelly is good, certainly, but isinglass and gela- 
 tine do not possess much value in the sick room. 
 These jellies constitute, however, pretty orna- 
 mental dishes, which are useful, and exceedingly 
 convenient. No difficulty need be experienced 
 in making jelly clear and bright, if the instruc- 
 tions given in Calf's Foot Jellt, and IsiN- 
 Gi^ss, and Gelatine Jelly, are closely fol- 
 lowed. 
 
 SWEET JELLY. 
 
 Soak an ounce of best gelatine in water for an 
 hour. Drain it, and pour upon it half a pint of 
 boiling water, then stir it until dissolved. Add 
 the juice and peel of two lemons, and six ounces 
 of loaf sugar, together with a large wine-glass- 
 ful of wine or any approved liqueur, and as 
 much cold water as will make up the quantity 
 to one quart. Beat the whites of two eggs to 
 froth. Briskly stir them with the crushed shells 
 of the eggs into the liqueur, which should be 
 almost cold. Bring it slowly to the boil, and 
 let it simmer gently without touching it for ten 
 minutes. Take it off the fire, and let it stand 
 to settle for ten minutes, then strain it through 
 a jelly-bag till it is quite clear and bright. 
 When it is again cool, put it into one or more 
 moulds, and let it stand in a cool place till it 
 is stiff. When it is wanted, plunge it for a 
 single instant into boiling water, turn it upon 
 a glass dish, and serve. Time, eight or ten hours 
 will be needed to stiffen the jelly if it is not set 
 upon ice. Probable cost. Is. 2d., exclusive of 
 the wine or liqueur. Sufficient for eight or ten 
 persons. 
 SWEET PATTIES. 
 
 Sweet patties may be made of various ingre- 
 dients, and in a variety of ways (see Patties, 
 Peepabation of). The mince to fill them will 
 be excellent if made as follows. Take the meat 
 of a boiled calf 's-f oot — one which has been 
 stewed down for stock may be utilised in this 
 way — drain it well, mince it finely, and mix 
 with it a table-spoonful of finely-shredded suet, 
 three apples, pared, cored, and chopped small, 
 a spoonful of candied peel chopped small, the 
 pounded yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, the 
 strained juice of a lemon, and a little of the 
 grated rind ; sugar to taste, and add a small 
 glassful of wine. Put this mince into pastry, 
 and bake the patties in the usual way. 
 
 SWEET SAUCE, FOR PUDDINGS. 
 
 Take half a pint of good melted butter made 
 with milk, sweeten it, and flavour with cinna- 
 mon, grated nutmeg, or bitter almonds. Serve 
 very hot. Two table-spoonfuls of cream "stirred 
 into the sauce at the last moment will help to 
 enrich it. Time, about a quarter of an hour. 
 Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. Sufficient for six or 
 seven persons. 
 
 SWEET SAUCE, FOR VENISON. 
 
 Dissolve two table-spoonfuls of red currant 
 jelly, and stir into it a glassful of port or claret. 
 Do not let the sauce boil. Or stir two or three 
 good-sized lumps of sugar into a quarter of a 
 
 pint of venison gravy until dissolved. Add a 
 largo glassful of port or claret, and serve. 
 
 SWEET SPICE, PASTRYCOOK'S. 
 
 This is made by mixing together two parts of 
 sugar, one part of cassia, one part of nutmeg, 
 one part of mace, and the same of cloves. 
 
 SWISS COCOA-NUT PUDDINGS. 
 
 Shred a quarter of a pound of beef suet very 
 finely. Mix with it a quarter of a pound of 
 finely-grated bread-crumbs, and add two ounces 
 of grated cocoa-nut, six ounces of strawberry or 
 any other jam, and a quarter of a pound of 
 powdered sugar. Beat two eggs with the milk 
 of the cocoa-nut, or three table-spoonfuls of 
 milk. Pour this liquor over the pudding, and 
 let it stand to soak for an hour. Butter a mould 
 thickly. Beat the pudding till the ingredients 
 are thoroughly mixed, and put it into the mould. 
 Tie it in a cloth, plunge it into fast-boiling 
 water, and boil quickly until done enough. 
 Turn it out, sift powdered sugar thickly upon it, 
 and serve. Time to boil, three hours and a half. 
 Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 SWISS CREAM. 
 
 Crumble a quarter of a pound of macaroons 
 and two or three penny spongecakes, or use a 
 mixture of macaroons and ratafias. Lay the 
 crumbs in a glass dish. Pour over them a glass- 
 ful of sherry, and spread a spoonful or two of 
 jam upon them. If a plain dish is required, 
 the sherry or the jam, or both, may be omitted. 
 Simmer the thin rind of half a lemon, or a 
 little piece of vanilla, in half a cupful of milk 
 till it is nicely flavoured. Add a pint of 
 cream and as much sugar as will sweeten it 
 pleasantly. Mix a Ijable-spoonful of cornflour 
 smoothly with a little cold milk, and add this 
 gradually to the rest. Stir the mixture over 
 a gentle flre till it boils ; pour it out, and stir it 
 again till it is almost cold. Add the juice of a 
 lemon, and pour the cream over the cakes in the 
 dish. Ornament the top with bright-coloured 
 jelly or jam, or with strips of angelica. If liked, 
 two table-spoonfuls of arrowroqt may be sub- 
 stituted for the cornflour, or a table-spoonful of 
 flour even may be used. The cream should stand 
 in a cool place three or four hours before it is 
 wanted. 
 
 SWISS CREAM CAKES. 
 
 Mix a pinch of salt and half a tea-spoonful of 
 bicarbonate of soda in a spoonful of hot water; 
 add half a tin of Swiss condensed milk, and two 
 ounces and a half of butter, half an ounce of 
 lard, and an ounce of castor sugar that have 
 been beaten well together, then beat all for some 
 minutes. Add half a tea-spoonful of essence of 
 vanilla, the same of essence of musk or rose, 
 and the whites of six eggs that have been 
 whipped to a stiff froth — adding the whites a 
 spoonful at a- time. Take seven ounces of 
 Vienna flour and the same of English flour, 
 mixed, and add it from time to time. Do not 
 beat, but blend thoroughly. Bake in three 
 round cake-tins to a pale brown ; the tins should 
 be well buttered. While the cakes are baking, 
 mix half a grated cocoa-nut with the whites of 
 two eggs and enough sugar to make a rather 
 stiff mixture. Put this icing on the tops of the 
 
SWI 
 
 893 
 
 SYL 
 
 cakes after they have become cool, and put them 
 ,l)ack in the oven for a minute to let it set. 
 Probable cost, Is. 8d. 
 
 SWISS PUDDING, PLAIN. 
 
 Take half a dozen large baking apples, pared, 
 cored, and sliced, and half a pound of finely- 
 grated bread-crumbs. Butter a pie-dish, and 
 cover the bottom with a layer of bread-crumbs. 
 Add a layer of sliced apples, and sprinkle over 
 these a little grated nutmeg or lemon-rind, and 
 a large spoonful of moist sugar. Fill the dish 
 with alternate layers of bread-crumbs and 
 apples, and let crumbs form the uppermost as 
 well as the lowest layer. Place little pieces of 
 butter here and there on the top of the pudding, 
 and pour half a cupful of water and the juice 
 of the lemon upon it. Bake in a moderate oven. 
 When the surface of the pudding is brightly 
 browned, and the apples have fallen, it is done 
 enough. Serve with finely-powdered sugar. If 
 liked, six ounces of beef suet may be substituted 
 for the butter, and the ingredients may be mixed 
 thoroughly, put into a buttered mould, and 
 boiled instead of being baked. Time to bake, 
 about two hours, less or more according to the 
 quality of the apples; to boil, four hours. 
 Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 SWISS ROLL. 
 
 Break five eggs, separating the yolks from 
 the whites; beat the yolks, and dredge in six 
 ounces of pounded sugar and three ounces of 
 flour, beating all the time. Whisk the whites 
 of the eggs to as stiff a froth as possible, and 
 stir them gently into the mixture. Butter a 
 small baking-tin, and pour the mixture in; 
 it should be about a quarter of an inch thick. 
 Set it in a moderate oven, and bake for six or 
 seven minutes. As soon as slightly firm take 
 it out; spread apricot, raspberry, or greengage 
 jam quickly over it; roll it up; replace it in 
 the oven, and bake another five or six minutes ; 
 sift sugar on, and set it aside to cool. Probable 
 cost. Is. 
 
 SWISS TRIFLE. 
 
 Crumble a quarter of a pound of macaroons, 
 and a quarter of a pound of ratafias, and put 
 them into a glass dish. Pour a, glassful of 
 brandy upon them, and let them soak for a 
 while. Sweeten a pint of cream, and flavour 
 with lemon -rind or any suitable flavouring. 
 Put it into a saucepan, and stir into it a table- 
 spoonful of ground rice which has been mixed 
 to a smooth paste with a little cold milk. Let 
 it boil gently till it begins to thicken, and stir 
 it all the time. Pour it out, and when it is 
 almost cold add the strained juice of two lemons. 
 Pour the mixture upon the cakes. Stick 
 blanched almonds into it, and let it stand an 
 hour or two before it is used. Time, a quarter 
 of an hour to boil the milk with the rice. 
 Probable cost, exclusive of the brandy, 2s. 4d. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 SYLLABUBS. 
 
 Soak the thin rind of a fresh lemon in a pint 
 of sherry or Madeira, and let it remain all night. 
 Sweeten it well, and add three table-spoonfuls 
 of brandy, a pint and a half of rich cream 
 beaten up with the white of an egg, and the 
 
 juice of the lemon. Beat' the mixture to froth. 
 As it rises place it in the glasses, pile it as high 
 as possible, and place it in a cool place. In a 
 little time the syllabubs will get firm, and settle 
 into a highly-flavoured preparation covered 
 with snowy froth. If liked, melted red currant 
 or black currant jelly may be mixed with half 
 the cream before it is whipped, and This will 
 make the syllabubs contrast in colour. Sylla- 
 bubs should be made the day before wanted. 
 
 SYLLABUBS, COMMON. 
 
 Put four ounces of pounded sugar into a 
 bowl, and add the rind of a lemon, a grated 
 nutmeg, half a pint of sweet wine, aii,d half a, 
 pint of sherry. Mix all thoroughly till the 
 sugar is dissolved. Pour in with a tea-pot or 
 spouted jug held at a good height a pint and 
 a half of warm milk. Serve the syllabub cold. 
 A little pounded cinnamon and clotted cream 
 may be laid on the top. Sometimes cider is 
 used instead of wine, and then a little brandy 
 should certainly be added. 
 SYLLABUBS, DEVONSHIRE. 
 
 (/See l)BvoNSHiEE Syllabub.) 
 SYLLABUBS IN GLASSES. 
 
 Put a quarter of a pound of sugar into a small 
 punch-bowl, and pour upon it the strained juice 
 of a large fresh lemon. Stir the mixture briskly, 
 and add a tumblerful of port, a tumblerful of 
 sherry, and half a tumblerful of brandy. Add 
 half a nutmeg, grated, place the bowl under 
 the cow, and fill it till it froths high in the 
 bowl. In serving put a little curd into each 
 glass, fill it with whey, and place a spoonful of 
 thick cream on the top. 
 
 SYLLABUBS, LARGE. 
 
 Put half a pound of powdered white sugar into 
 a bowl, and strain upon it the juice of two 
 lemons. Add the grated rind of one lemon, a 
 glassful of Madeira, a glassful of sweet wine, a 
 little powdered cinnamon, and as much ratafia 
 as will flavour the mixture pleasantly. Stir 
 until the sugar is dissolved. Add a quart of 
 cream, and whisk the preparation to a froth. 
 Lay some macaroons in the bottom of a dish. 
 As the froth rises pile it upon the biscuits. 
 Keep it in a cool place. This syllabub ought 
 to be made a couple of days before it is wanted. 
 
 SYLLABUBS, SIMPLE. 
 
 Take a pint of cream, and put to it the whites 
 of three eggs well beaten, add the juice of one 
 lemon, three spoonfuls of wine, grated lemon- 
 peel, and sugar according to taste. Have the 
 glasses ready with a little wine in each of them ; 
 whisk the cream, and as the froth rises fill the 
 glasses. 
 
 SYLLABUBS, SOLID. 
 
 Take one quart of cream, one quart of white 
 wine, the juice of two lemons, the grated peel 
 of a lemon, and sugar to taste. Mix these ingre- 
 dients, mill them to a froth, then take ofE the 
 scum as it rises, and place it to drain on a hair 
 sieve. Half fill the glasses with the scum, and 
 heap the froth on it. 
 
 SYLLABUBS THAT WILL KEEP A WEEK OR 
 TEN DAYS. 
 
 Put the grated rind and strained juice of three 
 lemons upon a pound of powdered sugar. Add 
 
SYL 
 
 891 
 
 SYR 
 
 a pfnt and a half of good wine, and a quart of 
 thick cream. A little brandy may be added or 
 not. Whisk the mixture patiently one way till 
 it is well frothed. As the froth rises, take it off 
 gently, and pile it in glasses. Sprinkle some 
 of the small confections called hundreds and 
 thousands on the top, and keep the syllabubs 
 in a co(jl place. 
 
 SYLLABUBS UNDER THE COW. 
 
 Take a large china bowl — a punch bowl is the 
 most suitable for the purpose — put into it half 
 a pound of lump sugar, the strained juice of a 
 lemon, a pint of sherry, a glassful of brandy, 
 and three-quarters of a pint of cream beaten up 
 with white of egg. Stir the mixture briskly for 
 a minute or two, and put a dozen ratafias into 
 it. Take it to the dairymaid, and let her milk 
 the cow into the bowl until it is quite full. 
 Put it away, and let it remain untouched till 
 the following day. Grate a little nutmeg on 
 the top, and serve. 
 
 SYLLABUBS, WHIPPED. 
 
 Rub a lump of loaf sugar on the outside of a 
 lemon, put to it half a pint of thick cream, and 
 sweeten to taste. Squeeze in the juice of a 
 lemon, and add a glassful of Madeira wine or 
 French brandy. Mill it to a froth with a 
 chocolate mill, take off the froth as it rises, and 
 lay it in a hair sieve. Fill one half of the glass 
 with red wine, then lay the froth on it as high as 
 possible ; but take care that it is well drained in 
 the sieve, otherwise it will mix with the wine, 
 and the syllabub be spoiled. 
 
 SYRUP AND WINE SAUCE FOR RICH SWEET 
 PUDDINGS. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pint of good melted 
 butter. Stir into this one-eighth of a pint of 
 dissolved red currant jelly and one-eighth of a 
 pint of port. Stir the sauce over the fire till it is 
 on the point of boiling, and pour it upon and 
 around the pudding. 
 
 SYRUP CLARIFIED FOR JELLIES. 
 
 Put two pounds of refined .sugar into a well- 
 tinned saucepan with a quart of water. When 
 the sugar is dissolved, stir in briskly the white 
 of an egg beaten up with a spoonful of cold 
 water. Beat the syrup thoroughly, let it boil, 
 and remove the scum as it rises. Strain it 
 through a sieve, and it will be fit for use. 
 
 SYRUP CLARIFIED FOR KEEPING. 
 
 Allow half a pint of water to each pound of 
 refined loaf sugar, and the white of an egg to 
 every four pounds. Break up the sugar, and 
 pour the water upon it. Stir it until dissolved. 
 Beat the white of an egg, and stir it into the 
 syrup while it is still cold. Let it heat 
 gradually, removing the scum as it rises. When 
 perfectly clear, strain it into a napkin, and 
 keep it in closely-stoppered bottles for use. 
 This syrup will keep for some weeks. If less 
 sugar were used than the quantity named the 
 syrup would ferment. 
 
 SYRUP CLARIFIED WITH ISINGLASS. 
 
 Allow half a pint of water to each pound of 
 sugar, and a quarter of an ounce of Russian 
 isinglass to every six pounds. Pour the 
 water over the sugar, and let it stand till dis- 
 solved. Dissolve the isinglass in boiling water. 
 
 and add it to the syrup, Let the mixture cool, 
 then put it on the fire, and as the scum rises 
 remove it. When quite clear it will be ready 
 for use. Syrup thus prepared may be used for 
 preserving fruit. 
 
 SYRUP CUP PUDDINGS. 
 
 The moulds for these puddings should be 
 about the size of small tea-cups. Line them 
 with a suet . or crust paste rolled as ' thinly as 
 possible. For every half pound of treacle allow 
 the grated peel and strained juice of an orange, 
 a table-spoonful of grated apple, the same of 
 orange marmalade, two ounces of currants or 
 sultana raisins, and a little nutmeg or mixed 
 spice. Fill up the cups with alternate layers of 
 paste or treacle mixture, having paste as the 
 top layer, then steam the puddings, with a sheet 
 of greased paper laid over the top, for an hour 
 and a half. Turn out, and serve plain or with a 
 plain sweet sauce. Probable cost, 2id. each. 
 SYRUP FOR COMPOTES. 
 
 The quantity of sugar used in preparing syrup 
 for compotes must vary with the nattire of the 
 fruit. Every acid fruit will, of course, need 
 more sugar than luscious fruit. For a good 
 many Idnds of fruit half a pound of sugar may 
 be boiled in ^three-quarters of a pint of water. 
 Syrup thus made is not intended to keep. To 
 make it, dissolve the sugar in the water, and 
 boil it till clear. Remove the scum as it rises. 
 Time to boil, about a quarter of an hour. 
 SYRUP FOR LIQUEURS. 
 
 Put a pint of water in a preserving-pan over 
 the fire. When it boils, drop gradually into it 
 half a pound of sugar. When the sugar ia dis- 
 solved, let it boil up, skim it, and pour it out. 
 When cold it will be fit for use. 
 SYRUP OF APPLES (a German recipe). 
 
 Peel a dozen fine rennets, cut them into slices 
 as thin as possible, put them into a jar with a 
 pound and a half of sugar and six spoonfuls of 
 water; put the lid on, and place it in a bain- 
 marie for two hours, keeping the water always 
 boiling : be careful from time to time to move 
 the jar, but do not take it out of the water, be- 
 cause by coming into the cold air it might crack. 
 When it has boiled two hours let the fire go out, 
 and leave the jar in the bain-marie till nearly 
 cold. When the juice is almost cold, flavour it 
 with lemon-juice, adding a spoonful of essence 
 of lemon, a spoonful of essence of cinnamon, 
 orange-flower water, or anything else which may 
 be preferred. If it is not quite clear, let it 
 stand for two or three hours more, then pour it 
 gently into bottles, taking great care not to 
 disturb the sediment at the bottom. 
 SYRUP OF BARBERRIES. 
 
 Boil a quart of water, throw into it a pound of 
 very ripe barberries picked from the stalks; 
 after boiling up a few times let them infuse till 
 the following day; then boil two pounds and a 
 half of sugar to pearling (see Sttoae Boiling) ; 
 set the barberries again on the fire, and after 
 boiling them up three or four times strain them ; 
 add the juice to the sugar, and put the whole on 
 the flre. Skim the preparation the whole time 
 of boiling, which must be about twenty minutes. 
 When done bottle it. This syrup seldom fer- 
 ments. 
 
SYR 
 
 .895 
 
 TAB 
 
 SYRUP OF COWSLIPS. 
 
 Upon every gallon of cowslip flowers with 
 their white part cut off pour a quart of boiling 
 water. Put the pan containing them over a 
 very slow fire, where it must simmer gently 
 during six hours. Let it stand till next day, 
 then replace it over a good fire until it reaches 
 the boiling point, but before ebullition com- 
 mences remove it from the fire. Squeeze out the 
 flowers as hard as you possibly can, and add 
 the same quantity of fresh flowers. Make the 
 preparation boil; but the moment ebullition 
 begins, replace it on the slow fire, and let it 
 simmer again for six hours. Again let it stand 
 till next day, when, having heated it as before, 
 but without boiling, squeeze out the flowers 
 while hot, and to every pint of the expressed 
 juice add two pounds of sugar dissolved by 
 standing the pan in boiling water. Now set it 
 on the fire, and stir it until the scum rises; 
 then remove it from the fire, and skim it; re- 
 peat this until no more scum rises. Let it now 
 iave a single boil, and run it through a jelly- 
 bag. When quite cold, bottle it in pint bottles. 
 
 SYRUP OF MULBERRIES (a French recipe). 
 
 Gather and pick the fruit before it is quite 
 ripe, that the juice may have a little acidity. 
 Reduce to powder an equal weight of sugar, 
 and place it, together with the fruit, in a pre- 
 serving-pan; do not mash the fruit, or it will 
 make the juice thick. Set the pan over a very 
 moderate fire ; the heat will soon burst the 
 fruit, and by this means the juice will be quite 
 clear. When the sugar is dissolved it will re- 
 quire a few boilings to make the syrup. Strain 
 it through a horsehair sieve without pressing 
 the fruit. The mulberries will remain in the 
 sieve, and the syrup will not need to be clarified. 
 
 SYRUP OF ORGEAT. 
 
 Blanch a pound of sweet and two ounces of 
 Taitter almonds ; rub them in a mortar to a 
 smooth paste, adding now and then half a table- 
 spoonful of cold water to prevent them from 
 oiling. Mix the paste gradually with three pints 
 of cold water; strain it through a cotton bag, 
 squeezing the bag well to get out all the good- 
 ness of the almonds. Mix with this emulsion a 
 quarter of a pint of orange-flower water. Now 
 make a gallon of clarified syrup, pass it through 
 a jelly-Toag, set it on the fire, and boil it up. 
 When approacliing to a proper consistency, stir 
 in the emulsion gradually so as to check the 
 boiling a little. Let it now continue to boil 
 until it is done enough. Put it to cool. Bottle 
 the syrup while still warm, agitating it before 
 you pour it into the bottles. Let it stand till 
 quite cold before you cork it. To make it keep 
 better, pour a little drop of olive oil on the top 
 of each bottle, which must be quite full, allow- 
 ing not more than half an inch of space between 
 the cork and the liquid. When a bottle is 
 opened, the oil is to be removed with a bit of 
 cotton. For another way, see Orgeat Syrup. 
 
 SYRUP OF RASPBERRY. 
 
 Mash your raspberries a little immediately 
 after they are gathered. Put them into a stone 
 jar with h^lf a pint of the best white-wine vine- 
 gar to each pound. Let them stand in a cold 
 cellar during two days. Run the liquor through 
 a hair sieve, but without forcing through any 
 
 of the raspberry-pulp, and to every pint jiiit a 
 pound and three-quarters of sugar. When the 
 sugar is dissolved, clarify it with white of egg, 
 only heating, not boiling it; then put it on 
 again to boil over a clear brisk fire; skim it 
 as it boils up ; let it boil ten minutes, then stir 
 it till it is quite cold. By mixing a couple of 
 table-spoonfuls of this syrup in half a tumbler 
 of water, and stirring in as much carbonate of 
 soda as will cover a shilling, the famous effer- 
 vescent raspberryade is formed. The pulp of the 
 raspberries may be converted into raspberry 
 jam, the slight flavour of vinegar forming an 
 agreeable variety. {See also Raspberry Sybup.) 
 
 SYRUPS, FRUIT. 
 
 To have fruit-juices fit for preservation, it is 
 necessary, in the first place, to select fully-ripe 
 and undecayed fruit, and after mashing the fruit 
 it should receive an addition of five to ten per 
 cent, of sugar, and then be left to undergo a 
 slight fermentation. The juice after filtration 
 becomes perfectly clear, and is much improved 
 in flavour and colour. Raspberries, whortle- 
 berries, currants, cherries, etc., may be tliu3 
 treated, but the delicate flavour of the straw- 
 berry requires some modification of the process. 
 In this, two pounds of carefully-picked straw- 
 berries — the wild strawberry of the wood is the 
 best — are put into a glass jar with two and a 
 half pounds of white powdered sugar, and 
 occasionally shaken. The sugar extracts the 
 juice, and the berries shrivel to a dry pulp, and 
 after filtering the syrup is ready for use. Heat- 
 ing must be carefully avoided, as it would at 
 once destroy the fragrance of the fruit. As to 
 cherries, the so-called morella is recommended — 
 and by leaving the cracked stones in the pulp, 
 a flavour like that of bitter almonds will be 
 imparted. In making syrup of the fruit- 
 juices prepared as above indicated, be careful 
 never to make use of any metallic vessels or 
 spoons, and always to take best refined loaf 
 sugar in lumps, five parts of juice to eight parts 
 of sugar constituting a good proportion. The 
 lumps of sugar are moistened with just enough 
 water to cause them to dissolve readily, when 
 the allotted juice is added, and the whole is to 
 be rapidly heated to boiling, which, however, 
 must only be continued for a few minutes. 
 With good sugar no skimming is necessary, and 
 filtering through flannel or othei* woollen cloth 
 wetted in water containing a few drops of sul- 
 phuric acid, and well wrung, will make the 
 syrup perfectly clear. It is best to fill the pre- 
 serve jar with the syrup when cold, but if it has 
 been done when hot, the vessel must be filled up 
 after cooling, as the vapour condenses on the 
 portion of the vessel left empty, and, running 
 down, dilutes the upper portion ot the syrup, 
 and thus makes it more liable to spoil. 
 
 TABLETS, SUGAR, FLAVOURED. 
 
 Clarify a pound of sugar. To do this, break 
 it up into small pieces, and pour over it a 
 quarter of a pint of water which has been 
 beaten up with a tea-spoonful of white of egg. 
 Let it stand until the sugar is dissolved, then 
 put it on the fire, and when it boils throw in 
 
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 another quarter of a pint of water, and let it boil 
 up again without stirring. Draw the pan to the 
 side of the fire, let the syrup settle, and care- 
 fully remove the scum. In order to avoid waste, 
 put this scum upon an inverted sieve ; a small 
 portion of clear syrup will drain from it, which 
 may be put with the rest. Flavour the syrup 
 with three drops of oil of cinnamon, the grated 
 peel of two lemons, or a quarter of an ounce of 
 ground ginger. Eeturn it to the preserving- 
 pan, and boil it to candy height (see StroAE 
 BoiLiNo) or until it rises high in the pan, and 
 has sufficient firmness to make a thread when 
 taken between the thumb and finger (which have 
 been previously dipped in cold water). Pour it 
 on a large flat dish or well-oiled slab, and mark 
 it quickly into squares, into which it may be 
 broken when cold. If liked, essence of pepper- 
 mint, or essence of cloves may be used for 
 flavouring. 
 TADCASTER PUDDING. 
 
 Shred eight ounces of suet very finely, and 
 mix it with a pound of flour; or, if preferred, 
 rub six ounces of butter or good beef dripping 
 into a pound of flour. Add a pinch of salt, 
 two heaped tea spoonfuls of baking-powder, 
 four ounces of well - washed currants, four 
 ounces of chopped and stoned raisins, two 
 ounces of moist sugar, and half a nutmeg, 
 grated. Mix the dry ingredients together 
 thoroughly. Dissolve a dessert-spoonful of 
 treacle in about three-quarters of a pint of milk, 
 and stir this into the pudding to make a stiff 
 batter. Pour the mixture into a thickly-but- 
 tered baking-dish, and let it be from two to 
 three inches in thickness. Bake in a moderate 
 oven. When the pudding is done enough, let 
 it stand for a couple of minutes, then turn it 
 out on a hot dish. Time to bake, about an 
 hour and a half. Probable cost. Is. Id. Suf- 
 ficient for six persons. 
 TAGLIATELLI. 
 
 Make a paste with flour and water and a little 
 salt, and roll it out quite thin. Cut this out 
 into strips of about half a finger's breadth. 
 Throw them into boiling water, and let them 
 boil a few minutes. Then remove them to cold 
 water, and drain them on a sieve. Place at the 
 bottom of a dish some butter and grated cheese, 
 then a, layer of the tagliatelli made as above, 
 seasoned with pepper, another layer of butter 
 and cheese, and another of tagliatelli, and so on 
 until the whole is used. Pour over it a glass 
 of cream, add a layer of cheese, and bake in the 
 oven until brown. 
 
 TAMARIND. 
 
 This is the fruit — or rather the pod — of a tree 
 indigenous to the East and West Indies. It 
 thrives also in Egypt, Arabia, and Palestine. 
 In these countries it is sometimes used as an 
 article of food in the form of confectionery, and 
 it is thought highly of on account of its pleasant 
 acid taste and cooling properties. The pod con- 
 sists of two parts: the outer is fleshy, and the 
 inner as thin as parchment. Between these two 
 there is a space of about a quarter of an inch, 
 which is occupied by a soft pulp of a tart but 
 agreeable taste. The pods are gathered when 
 quite ripe, freed from the shelly fragments, and 
 placed in a cask in layers ; boiling syrup is then 
 
 poured over them till the cask is full. The 
 syrup pervades every part, even to the bottom. 
 When cold the casks are headed down and sent 
 to market. The more refined mode of prepara- 
 tion, however, is to clarify the juice of the fruit 
 with the white of egg, and form it with sugar 
 into a clear, transparent syrup : this and the 
 fruit makes an agreeable and cooling beverage. 
 
 TAMARIND-JUICE. 
 
 Mix a quarter of a pint of tamarind-juice 
 with half a. pint of cold spring water. This 
 will make a refreshing drink in hot weather. 
 
 TAMOR PUDDING. 
 
 Scald a pint of milk in a double boiler. 
 Beat together the whites of four eggs and half 
 a cupful of granulated sugar. Add a little 
 of the hot milk; stir; then pour into the 
 double boiler and stir till the mixture is ars 
 thick as custard. Take from fire, and add 
 one ounce of gelatine, previously soaked in a 
 cupful of cold water. Stir till dissolved, then 
 strain into four portions. Colour one part 
 yellow, another pink, and a third green. 
 Set aside to cihill in the following order : 
 white, pink, yellow, green. Flavour white with 
 vanilla, pink with sherry and vanilla, yellow 
 with orange-flower water, and the green with 
 pistachio. Whip three cupfuls of cream to a 
 froth, and divide into four portions. Have 
 ready a two-quart mould dipped in cold water. 
 When the white portion begins to thicken add 
 one lot of cream, mix lightly together, and 
 pour into the mould; cover with a layer cf 
 sponge fingers, and stand aside till set. Repeat 
 with remainder; when firm, turn on to a, dish. 
 
 TANGERINE ORANGES, FROSTED. 
 
 Divide some tangerine oranges into quarters. 
 Have ready some thin wooden skewers four or 
 five inches long, a skewer for each piece of 
 orange, and put them in the point of each 
 quarter of orange about half-way through. 
 Lay one end of the skewers upon a sieve so that 
 the fruit can hang outside without touching 
 anything, and let it dry for two or three hours. 
 Make an icing by boiling a pound of sugar with 
 a pint of water to a clear syrup, and when it i? 
 smooth and clear add a little of the juice and 
 grated rind of the orange to flavour it agree- 
 ably. When the sugar rises like large beads in 
 the pan, take a little quickly from the top with 
 the finger, and plunge it at once into cold 
 water. If it comes easily off the finger the 
 sugar is ready for use, and must not be boiled 
 longer, or it will be discoloured. Dip the pieces 
 of oranges in the icing, and afterwards let them 
 drain from the sieve until cold. Remove the 
 skewers, and serve the iced fruit in a compote- 
 dish. Time, about three hours. Sufficient, six 
 oranges for a moderate-sized dish. 
 
 TANKARD CUP. 
 
 Make a slice of toast, put it in a large goblet, 
 and grate over it the eighth of a nutmeg. Add 
 two inches of thin lemon-rind, and squeeze upon 
 it the juice of half a lemon. Mix a pint of mild 
 ale with a table-spoonful of brandy, a. table- 
 spoonful of white wine, and a table-spoonful 
 of capillaire. Pour the mixture over the toast, 
 and it will be ready to serve. A sprig of mint 
 
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 or borage may "be put into the mixture for a 
 minute, or not. 
 
 TANSY PUDDING. 
 
 This is an old-fashioned dish seldom to be 
 met with at modern tables. Pound a handful 
 of green tansy with three or four young spinach- 
 leaves, and sc[ueeze out the juice. Pour a pint 
 of boiling milk over a quarter of a pound of 
 bread-crumbs, and let it stand until cool. Add 
 two ounces of butter, a glassful of brandy, two 
 table-spoonfuls of sugar, the juice of half a 
 lemon, and two table-spoonfuls of the tansy- 
 juice. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, then 
 add four well-beaten eggs. Pour the pudding 
 into a buttered dish, and bake in a weU-heated 
 oven. Serve very hot, and sift powdered sugar 
 thickly over the top of the pudding. A superior 
 tansy pudding may be made by flavouring the 
 milk with pounded almonds, and lining the 
 edges of the dish with puff-paste before putting 
 in the mixture. At old-fashioned tables the 
 ordinary batter pudding may occasionally be 
 seen coloured and flavoured with tansy-juice. 
 Tansy-leaves have a peculiar bitter taste, and 
 are said to act as a tonic. Time to bake, about 
 three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, la. 3d., 
 exclusive of the brandy. Sufficdent for three or 
 four persons. 
 
 TAPIOCA. 
 
 Tapioca is procured from a plant which grows 
 in British Guiana, and is known to botanists by 
 the name of Jatropha, or Manihot JanipJia. 
 The tapioca is procured from the root of the 
 plant, which, oddly enough, contains hydro- 
 cyanic acid; and it is said that the native 
 Indians poison their arrows from the juice of 
 
 TAPIOCA AND TOMATOES, GARNISHED WITH PAIISLEV. 
 
 the root before they begin preparing the tapioca. 
 The native cassava is also prepared from the 
 same plant. 
 
 Tapioca is a very wholesome and nutri- 
 tious farinaceous food, very easy of digestion. 
 It is used for puddings, for thickening soups 
 and sauces, and it is also simply boiled in milk 
 or water as a food for invalids. 
 
 When tapioca is properly mixed with 
 other flour it will make very good bread. 
 It should be bought of a respectable dealer, as 
 a spurious kind is sometimes offered for sale 
 made of gum and potato-flour. The jar in the 
 3f 
 
 store-cupboard which contains tapioca should 
 be kept closely covered, or insects will get 
 into it. 
 
 TAPIOCA AND APPLE PUDDING. 
 
 Wash a tea-cupful of tapioca, and soak it for 
 an hour in a quart of cold water. Put it into 
 a saucepan, set it on the flre, let it boil, then 
 simmer it gently until it is smooth and clear, 
 stirring it frequently to keep it from getting 
 into lumps. Half fill, a moderate-sized pie-dish 
 with cooking apples, pared, cored, and cut into 
 thin slices. Bake these in a moderate oven until 
 they are slightly softened, then sweeten the 
 tapioca, flavour it in any way that may be 
 agreeable, and pour it over the fruit. Bake 
 the pudding until the apples have fallen. Any 
 other fruit may be substituted for apples, such 
 as strawberries, red currants,- raspberries, etc. 
 The pudding may be served hot, or in summer- 
 time may be made with fresh fruit, turned out 
 in a mould, and when cold eaten with milk 
 or cream. Time, about one hour to bake the 
 pudding. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. 
 
 TAPIOCA AND TOMATOES. 
 
 Soak a table-spoonful of tapioca in water for 
 a couple of hours, set it to boil, adding a little 
 more water till quite done to the consistency of 
 porridge. Add pepper, salt, and a little fresh 
 butter. Cut two tomatoes in half, remove pips 
 and watery substance, sprinkle with a little 
 pepper and salt. Fill each half-tomato with 
 the tapioca, sprinkle the top with grated Par- 
 mesan and baked bread-crumbs, put them into 
 the oven for twenty minutes, and serve. 
 
 TAPIOCA CAKE. 
 
 Tapioca is an article that swells very much, 
 and which requires a long time to be done 
 thoroughly. If you boil it over too brisk a fire, 
 it will become tough; if over a very slow fire, 
 it will be as mellow as marrow, and then it is 
 extremely pleasant to the palate. Boil a pint 
 of cream and a pint of milk with a little sugar 
 and very little salt. Then add the peel of half 
 a lemon; but if the taste of orange-flowers, 
 roses, or vanilla, etc., should be more agreeable, 
 use them in preference, according to taste. Put 
 
 quarter of a pound of tapioca into the cream, 
 nnd let it boil over a very slow fire; when it is 
 done throw in a piece of butter, and break the 
 yolks of six eggs, which beat up with it, and 
 pour into a pie-dish or cake-tin. When you send 
 up the first course, beat the whites of the eggs, 
 pour them gently over the restj and set the whole 
 in a moderate oven. If you wish to make a 
 cake, sprinkle a mould twice over with clarified 
 butter and crumbs of bread : mix with the pre- 
 paration some dried cherries and currants, and 
 proceed as you would do for a souffle. When 
 done turn the mould upside-down in a dish, and 
 send up hot. 
 
 TAPIOCA CONSERVE. 
 
 Soak two ounces of tapioca overnight in a' 
 pint and a half of water, then mix with it half 
 a pound of strawberry jam and three ounces 
 of castor sugar. Put it into a pie-dish, stir fre- 
 quently, and bake in a moderate oven until the 
 tapioca is quite clear, say about three hours. 
 Serve cold with cream'. Probable cost, 9d. 
 
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 TAPIOCA CREAM SOUP. 
 
 Put into a muslin bag a table-spoonful each 
 of celery and Spanish onion, very finely chopped, 
 the same of grated carrot, a tea-spoonful of 
 grated cocoa-nut, a salt-spoonful of mignonette 
 pepper, and a small bunch of herbs. Tie up 
 the bag, put it in a pint of stock, boil up, and 
 keep it just simmering for half an hour ; then 
 remove the bag, giving it a good squeeze. 
 Sprinkle in three ounces of crushed tapioca, 
 stirring well, and boil for twenty minutes. Beat 
 up the yolks of three eggs ; heat gently a quart 
 of milk and a gill of cream until about blood- 
 heat, mix it with the eggs, then add the stock 
 very gradually. Beturn the whole to the pan, 
 stir until it is on the point of boiling, then 
 serve. Probable cost. Is. 4d. 
 
 t TAPIOCA CUSTARD. 
 
 Wash two table-spoonfuls of tapioca, and boil 
 it gently in a pint of milk until it is quite soft, 
 stirring it frequently to keep it from getting into 
 lumps. Add a piece of butter the size of a 
 walnut and two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and 
 when these are thoroughly mixed draw the 
 saucepan on one side that the preparation may 
 cool a little. Beat four fresh eggs in a bowl, 
 mix gradually with them part of the tapioca, 
 then pour them into the remainder in the sauce- 
 pan, and stir all over the fire until the custard 
 is on the point of boiling. Turn it out, flavour 
 with vanilla, ratafia, almond, or any other 
 flavouring, and when it is cold put it into a glass 
 dish. Just before serving, crush an ounce of 
 macaroons to powder, and sprinkle them over 
 the surface, or if preferred sift a little powdered 
 cinnamon over the top. Time to simmer the 
 tapioca, about two hours. Probable cost. Is. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 TAPIOCA FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 Wash a table-spoonful of tapioca, and soak it 
 in a pint of water or milk and water for half 
 an hour. Let it boil, then simmer it gently 
 until it is quite clear, and stir it frequently 
 to keep it from getting into lumps. Sweeten it 
 slightly, and flavour with brandy or wine if 
 agreeable, if not, with cinnamon, or orange pr 
 lemon-rind. If it is too thick add a little more 
 water. Veal, mutton, or chicken broth may be 
 substituted for the water or milk and water. 
 Time to simmer, about three-quarters of an hour. 
 Sufficient for one invalid. 
 TAPIOCA, GRATINE. 
 
 Drop ten ounces of tapioca into a stewpan 
 with a quart of boiling milk. Add a slice of 
 butter, a pinch of salt, sugar to taste, and the 
 grated rind of a lemon. Boil, then simmer very 
 gently, stirring all the time till tender. Pour 
 the tapioca out, and when cool mix four eggs 
 with it. If the eggs are added when the mixture 
 is too hot it will curdle. Turn into a plain 
 mould, which has been buttered and lined with 
 bread-crumbs. Bake in a gentle oven till brown 
 on the top. Turn out and serve. 
 
 TAPIOCA JELLY. 
 
 Wash a quarter of a pound of tapioca, and 
 soak it in a pint of water for some hours. Put 
 it into a saucepan over the fire with another pint 
 of cold water and the thin rind of a lemon or an 
 orange, and let it Bimmer gently until quite 
 
 clear and thick, and keep adding at intervals 
 small quantities of boiling water to make up 
 half a pint. Remove the lemon-rind, pour out 
 the tapioca, sweeten it, add as much lemon-juice 
 as is agreeable, and a little brandy or wine if 
 liked. Pour the prepared tapioca into small 
 damp moulds, and turn it out when cold and 
 stiff. Tapioca jelly is very good eaten with 
 preserved fruit and cream or milk. Time to 
 simmer, about one hour. Probable cost, 5d., 
 exclusive of the wine or brandy. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 
 TAPIOCA JELLY (another way). 
 
 Take one pound of tapioca and six pints of 
 water. Let the tapioca soak in the water all 
 night ; in the morning boil until quite clear and 
 of a proper consistency, then flavour to taste. 
 TAPIOCA PUDDING, BAKED. 
 
 Wash four table-spoonfuls of tapioca in water, 
 then let it boil with a quart of milk and the thin 
 rind of a lemon or an orange, or an inch of 
 cinnamon. Pour it into a basin, let it get cold, 
 sweeten it, and take out the peel. Beat it up 
 with three eggs and an ounce of butter. Pour 
 it into a buttered dish, and bake the pudding 
 in a well-heated oven. The edge of the dish 
 may be lined with puff-paste or not. Time to 
 bake, about three-quarters of an hour. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 TAPIOCA PUDDING, BOILED. 
 
 Wash two table-spoonfuls of tapioca, and let 
 it soak in a pint of milk for an hour. Put it 
 into a saucepan with an ounce of butter, a 
 table-spoonful of sugar, and the thin rind of a 
 lemon or an orange, or any flavouring that may 
 be preferred. Let it boil, then stir it over a 
 gentle fire for a quarter of an hour. Pour it out, 
 remove the rind, and let the tapioca cool. Stir 
 in with it the yolks of four eggs and the whites 
 of two well-beaten. Pour the pudding into a 
 buttered mould, and boil or steam it until done 
 enough. Let it stand in the mould for some 
 minutes after it is taken up before turning it 
 out. It will be necessary to handle it very 
 carefully, or it will break. Sift powdered sugar 
 thickly over it, and send a dish of cream to 
 table with it. The appearance of the pudding 
 will be improved if it is garnished with any kind 
 of bright-coloured jelly or jam. Time to boil, 
 an hour and a half. Probable cost. Is. 2d. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 TAPIOCA PUDDING, FRENCH. 
 
 Take two ounces of tapioca, and boil it in 
 half a pint of water until it begins to melt, then 
 add half a pint of milk by degrees, and boil until 
 the tapioca becomes very thick; add a well- 
 beaten egs, sugar, and flavouring to taste, and 
 bake gently for three-quarters of an hour. This 
 preparation of tapioca is superior to any other 
 for delicate children and invalids. 
 TAPIOCA PUDDING, SIMPLE. 
 
 Wash and drain a tea-cupful of tapioca, and 
 put it into a buttered baking-dish large enough 
 to hold about three pints. Sprinkle over it a 
 table-spoonful of finely-grated bread-crumbs, 
 a little nutmeg, cinnamon, or lemon-peel, and 
 fill the dish with cold milk. Put in a piece of 
 butter the size of a small nut, and bake the 
 pudding in a moderate oven. When the surface 
 
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 of the pudding is covered with a brightly- 
 browned skin it is done enough. Send sugar to 
 table with the pudding. Time to bake, about 
 two hours. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for 
 six or seven persons. 
 
 TAPIOCA SOUP. 
 
 Take as much properly-seasoned clear cold 
 stock as may be required, and put it into the 
 stewpau with an ounce of well-washed tapioca 
 to each pint of stock. ' Bring the preparation 
 gradually to the point of boiling, then simmer 
 it gently until tender, and stir it frequently to 
 keep it from getting into lumps. A white soup 
 may be made by using veal stock, and adding a 
 little boiling cream or milk to the soup just 
 before serving. Time to simmer the tapioca, an 
 hour or more from the time the soup boils. 
 Probable cost, varying with the quality of the 
 stock. Sufficient, a quart of soup for four or 
 five persons. 
 TAPIOCA SOUP (another way). 
 
 Large-grained tapioca is the best for soup. 
 Take as much tapioca as may be required, and 
 soak it in cold water for a quarter of an hour. 
 Drain it, and put it into a stewpan with as 
 much cold stock as will cover it ; let it boil, and 
 afterwards simmer it gently until it is quite 
 clear and tender. Stir the rest of the stock, 
 already flavoured, into it, let it boil up, and 
 serve immediately. Time to simmer the tapioca, 
 from three-quarters of an hour to one hour. 
 Sufficient — an ounce of tapioca will thicken a 
 pint of soup. 
 
 TAPIOCA, WITH APPLES. 
 
 Soak a breakfast-cupful of tapioca all night, 
 then let it simmer in about a pint of boiling 
 water until transparent. Have ready a quart 
 of well-flavoured stewed apples, stir these into 
 the tapioca and mix well; let them cool a 
 little, then turn into a glass dish and serve with 
 cream and sugar. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 TARRAGON SAUCE, FOR BOILED FOWLS. 
 
 Take a small bunch of tarragon, and put it 
 into a saucepan with a pint of nicely-seasoned 
 white .stock and the white of an egg which has 
 been beaten up with two table-spoonfuls of cold 
 water and a table-spoonful of tarragon vinegar. 
 Whisk all thoroughly over the fire until the 
 broth boils, then draw it to the side, let it sim- 
 mer gently for a quarter of an hour, and after- 
 wards let it stand to settle for another quarter 
 of an hour. Strain through a jelly-bag, and 
 when clear, reduce the sauce by quick boiling 
 until it is rich and good. Time, a quarter of 
 an hour to boil, and a quarter of an hour to 
 settle. 
 
 TARRAGON VINEGAR, FOR SALADS AND 
 VARIOUS SAUCES. 
 
 Gather the tarragon on a dry day, just before 
 the plant begins to bloom. This will be late in 
 July, or in the early part of August. Pick the 
 leaves from the stalks, and with them fill wide- 
 mouthed glass bottles up to the neck, and in 
 doing so bruise the leaves slightly that their 
 flavour may more easily escape. Cover with 
 best white-wine vinegar, tie bladder over the 
 mouths of the bottles, and then let tHie leaves 
 infuse six weeks or two months. Pour off the 
 liquid, strain through muslin till it is quite 
 
 clear, put it into small bottles, and cork down 
 securely. Store in a dry place. Time, about 
 two months. 
 TART, FRUIT (English way) 
 
 Spread some puff-paste over the table with a 
 rolling-pin; cut a piece the size of the dish, 
 and out of the trimmings cut some strips ; brush 
 the edge of the dish with dorure, and stick the 
 strips on it : then put the fruit into the dish 
 with some sugar and a little water; roll the 
 paste on the rolling-pin, and lay it over the 
 fruit. Before you put the paste on, brush the 
 strips with some beaten egg to make it stick. 
 When you have trimmed the dish all round, 
 brush some white of egg over the tart, and sift 
 some sugar over it : then dip the paste-brush 
 into water, and shake it over the tart. Bake 
 it properly, and serve up cold. Apples, how- 
 ever, are an exception, as they are better hot. 
 Instead of brushing the tart with white of egg 
 only, you may use yolk and white beaten to- 
 gether, which is called dorure, and should be 
 borne in mind. When this has been done, take 
 a small knife and ornament the paste with 
 figures according to your fancy; then put the 
 tart in the oven, and if it begins to have too 
 much colour cover it with paper. When done, 
 spread over it some fine sugar through a sieve, 
 replace it in the oven to dry the sugar, and 
 with the red salamander glaze the tart of a 
 bright colour. You must prepare all kinds of 
 fruit in the same way ; ij you use the paste for 
 tarts, the strips are not essential. 
 
 TART, MY LADY'S. 
 
 Mix a little pastry with six ounces of flour, a 
 pinch of salt, three ounces of fresh butter, and 
 as much cold water or milk as will make a 
 smooth firm paste. Roll it out lightly two or 
 three times, and the last time roll it to the 
 thickness of a little less than an inch. Stamp 
 it out with a fluted cutter the size of-flie dish 
 in which it is to be served, and lay it on a 
 floured baking-tin. Roll the trimmings of the 
 pastry to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, 
 and stamp this out in rounds the size of the 
 flutings of a larger cutter. Moisten the edges 
 slightly, lay the r9unds upon the border of the 
 tart, and press them upon the inner side, so 
 that the outer edge may have a flaky appear- 
 ance. Lastly, make a circular incision a 
 quarter of an inch deep almost close to the 
 border, and bake the tart in a, moderate oven. 
 When it is done enough take out with a sharp 
 knife the part which has been marked, carefully 
 scrape away the soft crummy centre, and fill the 
 tart with good jam of any kind, or with oysters 
 or lobsters prepared as for a vol-au-veut. Put the 
 tartinto the oven again for a minute, and serve 
 it hot or cold. It may be ornamented according 
 to fancy. If filled with sweetmeat, a few 
 blanched and sliced almonds may be strewn 
 over it, or the rounds of the border may be 
 glazed with beaten egg. At Christmas-time the 
 tart may be filled with hot mincemeat instead of 
 jam. Time to bake, twenty-five to thirty 
 minutes. Probable cost, exclusive of the in- 
 terior, 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 TARTAR MUStARD.> 
 
 Put a table-spoonful of the best mustard into 
 a cup with tt pinch of salt arid a pinch of 
 
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 cayenne, and rub it down to a smooth paste, 
 using horse-radish vinegar instead of water. Be 
 careful to mix no more than will be required for 
 one day's use, as the pseparation is better when 
 freshly made. 
 
 TARTAR SAUCE. 
 
 Put the yolk of an egg quite free from white 
 into a basin, and beat it for a minute or two 
 with a pinch of salt, a pinch of pepper, and a 
 table-spoonful of dry mustard. Stir into this, 
 first in drops and afterwards in tea-spoonfuls, 
 four table-apconfuls of pure salad-oil, and be 
 careful to ,l^at the sauce for a minute or two 
 between eveny addition, as its excellence depends 
 in a great measure upon this being done. After 
 each six tea-spoonfuls of oil put in a tea-spoonful 
 of vinegar. Wash and mince finely three shal- 
 lots, six small gherkins, and a table-spoonful of 
 mixed chervil and tarragon. Put these into 
 the, sauce with a pinch of cayenne. Mix 
 thoroughly, and serve. If the sauce is not im- 
 mediately wanted, it should be kept in a cool 
 place. Time to mix the sauce, half an hour. 
 Probable coat, 8d. Sufiicient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 TARTAR SAUCE (another way). 
 
 Wash and mince finely four shallots. Put 
 them into a mortar with a tea-spoonful of 
 chopped tarragon or chervil (or both), a tea- 
 spoonful of dry mustard, a tea-spoonful of salt, 
 half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and the hard- 
 boiled yolks of two eggs. Pound these ingre- 
 dients until quite smooth. Put them into a 
 bowl, and mix with them very gradually three 
 table-spoonfuls of pure salad-oil. The oil 
 should be put in first in drops, and afterwards 
 in tea-spoonfuls, and the sauce should be well 
 beaten between each addition. If this point is 
 carefully attended to, there will be no danger 
 of the sauce curdling. When the oil is 
 thoroughly incorporated, add three dessert- 
 spoonfuls of best vinegar and one of chilli vine- 
 gar. Serve in a tureen. 
 TARTLETS. 
 
 Tartlets may be made with puff - jDaste, 
 almond paste, or any sweet pastry. They 
 are made as follows. Butter some patty- 
 pans, and line them with pastry rolled 
 out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch. 
 Trim them neatly, put a little crust of bread 
 into each tartlet, or — since this will answer the 
 same purpose, which is to keep the pastry from 
 puffing up in the centre — prick two or three 
 holes in the bottom of the tartlet; bake in a 
 quick oven. When they are two-thirds baked, 
 take the tartlets out of the oven, remove the 
 bread, and in its place put a Bpoonful of jam or 
 marmalade. Return tliem to the oven, and bake 
 until done enough. Let them get cold before 
 serving, ornament prettily, and send them to 
 table piled high on a dish covered with a 
 white napkin. Some cooks put the jam into 
 the tartlets before they are baked at all, 
 but this practice is certainly not to be recom- 
 mended, for it spoils both the taste and the 
 appearance of the tartlets. Time to bake 
 them, about a quarter of an hour. Probable 
 cost, about Id. each. Sufficient, half a pound 
 of pastry will make a moderate-sized dish of 
 tartlets. 
 
 TARTLETS (another way). 
 
 Roll out the pastry to the thickness of a 
 quarter of an inch. Stamp it out in an even 
 number of rounds of uniform size, and make half 
 of these into rings by pressing a small cutter 
 quite through the centre of them. Moisten the 
 edges of the rounds, place the rings upon them, 
 and press them tightly together. Put the tart- 
 lets on a baking-tin, and bake them in a well- 
 heated oven. As soon as they are done enough, 
 take them out of the oven, and before they are 
 cool fill them with jam or marmalade. Lay a 
 pastry ornament or a spoonful of whipped cream 
 on the top, and they are ready for serving. 
 Time to bake, about twelve minutes, Probable 
 cost. Id. each. 
 
 TARTLETS, ORANGE. 
 
 Make some rich puif-paste, with which line 
 some mince-pie tins. Put some orange marma- 
 lade into each, and squeeze fresh Seville orange- 
 juice over them. Bake for a quarter of an hour, 
 and strew pounded sugar over. The tartlets are 
 good hot or cold. 
 TARTLETS, PASTRY CREAM FOR GARNISHING. 
 
 {8e,a Pastet Cbbam, etc.) 
 TARTLETS, TO ORItlAMENT. 
 
 The usual way of ornamenting tartlets is to 
 lay upon them pastry leaves, flowers, or other 
 devices. These may be made of the trimmings 
 of the pastry, and should be baked separately in 
 a slow oven. Sometimes a tea-spoonful of 
 whipped cream is substituted for the pastry. 
 Ornaments for tartlets are made also of almond 
 pastry prepared as follows. Pound and sift 
 two ounces of loaf sugar, and mix with it two 
 ounces of dried flour and an ounce of almonds 
 pounded till smooth. Make this mixture into 
 a stiff paste with the white of an egg well 
 whisked with a table-spoonful of orange-flower 
 water. Beat the paste, and roll it out as thin 
 as possible. Stamp it into leaves, stars, flowers, 
 half -crescents, or any other fancy shapes, and 
 bake these in a slow oven till they are firm 
 without being coloured. When cold they are 
 ready for use. These ornaments may be kept 
 between sheets of writing-paper in a tin box to 
 be used when wanted. 
 
 TARTLET-TINS. 
 
 (iSec illustration accompanying the article on 
 Almond Cheesecakes.) 
 
 TARTS, PASTE FOR. 
 
 Take a pound and a half of flour, a pound and 
 a quarter of fresh butter, a large pinch of salt, 
 four yolks of eggs, and half a glassful of water. 
 Mix this paste as lightly as possible without 
 handling it too much; spread dt over the board 
 with a rolling-pin, and then fold it in three, as 
 you do puff-paste ; roll it out, and fold it up 
 again. Do this four times running : this is what 
 is called four-turned. Use this paste either for 
 tourte of entrees, for pies of meat or fruit, or 
 when it may be wanted. (>S'ec also Puff-paste.) 
 
 TARTS, SUGAR ICING FOR. 
 
 The appearance of tarts made in the ordinary 
 way, and with all kinds of fruit, is very much 
 improved by icing them. In order to do this 
 proceed as follows. Line the edges of the dish 
 with good crust, fill it with fruit and a little 
 
TEA 
 
 901 
 
 TEA 
 
 sugar, lay on the cover, pfesa down the edges, 
 and trim them neatly. Make a small hole at 
 each side for the steam to escape, then before 
 putting the tart in the oven, brush it over with 
 cold water, and sift white sugar thickly upon 
 it. Or, when the tart is nearly baked, take it 
 out, brush it over with white of egg whisked to 
 froth; sift white sugar on this and sprinkle a 
 little water on the top. If necessary, ^ay a 
 sheet of writing-paper over it to keep it from 
 acquiring too much colour. Time to bake, half 
 an hour for a moderate-sized- tart. 
 TEA BISCUITS. 
 
 Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter and a 
 large pinch of salt in a pint of warm railki Stir 
 this into a pound of flour, and make the paste 
 into a stiff dough by kneading it well with a 
 table-spoonful of brewer's yeast. Put the dough 
 into a bowl, cover it with a cloth, and set it in 
 a warm place to rise. When quite light, roll 
 it out very thin, stamp it into fancy shapes, 
 and bake in a moderate oven. Tea biscuits 
 should be eaten cold, and a little butter or mar- 
 malade should be sent to table with them. Time 
 to bake, ten to twenty minutes, according to 
 size. Probable cost for this quantity, 8d. Suf- 
 ficient for a dish. 
 
 TEA-CAKES, BAKER'S, TO TOAST, 
 
 Cut the tea-cake across into three or four 
 slices, according to thickness. Toast and butter 
 these on both sides, and lay them one upon 
 another in a hot dish. Cut them into quarters, 
 ana serve as hot as possible. They will retain 
 their heat much longer if kept in a covered plate 
 over a basin of boiling water. 
 
 TEA-CAKES, ROYAL. 
 
 Take the weight of a large egg in fresh butter. 
 Boat it to a cream, and mix with it four ounces 
 of pounded and sifted loaf sugar, four ounces of 
 best flour, a small pinch of salt, and the grated 
 peel of half a lemon. Beat the egg with a little 
 orange-flower or rose-water, and with this knead 
 the mixture to a smooth paste. Roll it out, cut 
 it into small rounds, and bake these upon floured 
 tins in a well-heated oven. Time to bake, fifteen 
 to thirty minutes, according to the size of the 
 cakes. Probable cost, about 6d. for this quan- 
 tity. Sufficient for one or two persons. 
 
 TEA-CAKES, YORKSHIRE, EXCELLENT. 
 
 Rub six ounces of butter into two pounds of 
 fine flour; add a pinch of salt,' two eggs well 
 beaten, a pint of milk, and an ounce of German 
 yeast. Kneac the mixture well, put it into a 
 bowl, cover with a cloth, and set on the hearth 
 to rise. When it is quite light, and the surface 
 has cracked, divide it into ten cakes, and roll 
 these out lightly to the size of a saucer. Let 
 them rise before the fire a few minutes, and 
 bake in a ^uick oven. They must not be 
 turned over in the oven. Time to bake, about 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2d. each. Suf- 
 ficient for six or seven persona. 
 
 TEA-CAKES, YORKSHIRE, PLAIN. 
 
 Rub one ounce of butter and one ounce and a 
 half of lard into two pounds of the beat flour. 
 Mix rather less than an ounce of German yeast 
 with half a pint of warm water. Scoop a hollow 
 in the centre of the flour, and pour the dis- 
 solved yeast into it. Mix a little of the flour 
 
 with this to make a thin batter, and place the 
 bowl before the fire for an hour that the yeast 
 may rise. Beat an egg thoroughly with two 
 table-spoonfuls of warm milk. Stir this into the 
 batter, add a salt-spoonful of salt, and knead 
 all thoroughly together, adding as much warm 
 milk as is required to make a smooth dough. 
 Gash the aurface lightly vfith a knife, cover the 
 bowl which contains it with a cloth, and let the 
 dough rise until it is quite light. Divide it into 
 ten pieces, and roll these into cakes the size of a 
 saucer. Prick these with a jfork, put them on 
 a baking-tin before the firdiifor a few minutes 
 to rise, and bake them ligMtly in a well-heated 
 oven. They must on no account be turned 
 over in baking. Time to bake, about twenty 
 minutes. Probable cost. Id. or IJd. each. Suf- 
 ficient for ten cakes. 
 
 TEA-CAKES, YORKSHIRE, TO SERVE. 
 
 No Yorkshire tea-table would be regarded as 
 properly furnished unless it boasted a goodly 
 show of hot and cold tea-cakes. When served 
 cold, the tea-cakes are simply cut into fingers, 
 buttered liberally, and piled crosswise upon a 
 plate. When served hot, they are. generally 
 heated in the oven, cut through the centre, 
 spread with plenty of fresh butter, cut into 
 quarters, restored to their original shape, and 
 served as hot as possible. Or, by way of varia- 
 tion, they may be cut through the centre, 
 toasted, buttered liberally, and served very hot. 
 They should be sent in one or two "at a time, as 
 they will spoil if allowed to stand. 
 
 TEA, COLD. 
 
 The value of cold tea as a beverage is not 
 sufficiently known. Literary men and others 
 accustomed to' a sedentary occupation would 
 find one or two cups of cold tea taken without 
 either milk or sugar to be as stimulating as the 
 same quantity of sherry, whilst there would be 
 no fear of the drowsiness or diminution of the 
 Avorking power which might arise from imbibing 
 either wine or spirit. The taste for cold tea is 
 an easily acquired one, and worth cultivating 
 by those who require an occasional and harmless 
 stimulant. 
 
 TEA, TO MAKE. 
 
 An earthenware teapot is better than a metal 
 one for drawing out the flavour and strength of 
 the tea. jhe amount of tea used must depend 
 upon the quantity required. The old-fashioned 
 allowance is a very sensible one, that is, one 
 large tea-spoonful for each of the company, and 
 one for the teapot. Before making the tea, pour 
 half a pint of boiling water into the teapot, and 
 let it stand for two minutes. Pour it out, and 
 immediately put in the tea. Close the lid, and 
 let it remain for a minute to heat, then pour 
 upon it half a pint of boiling water. Let it 
 stand for three minutes, add sufficient bbiling 
 water to fill the teapot, and the tea will be 
 ready for use. Be careful not to drain all the 
 liquor from the pot so long as it is necessary to 
 continue to add boiling water, or the tea will 
 be very weak; and if it is desirable to add a 
 little fresh tea, let it be brewed separately in a 
 teacup before it is added to that which is already 
 made, as its strength will not be drawn out if it 
 is put upon the old leaves. Perhaps it is un- 
 necessary to say that unless the water is really 
 
TEA 
 
 902 
 
 TEA 
 
 boiling when it is put upon th& tea there will 
 be no good tea. 
 
 " Unless the kettle boiling be, 
 Filling the teapot spoils the tea." 
 
 It is not generally known, however, that the 
 water should be freshly boiled; if the kettle 
 has been steaming away for very long the water 
 is not fit for making tea. In order to extract 
 the full aroma from the leaf the water should 
 not have boiled for more than one minute at the 
 very outside, and many people destroy the 
 flavour of a good cup of tea through allowing 
 the kettle to remain over the fire tcK) long. 
 
 TEA, WITH LIQUEUR. 
 
 This is an ideal summer drink, is very good 
 for tennis and other parties, picnics, etc. ; and 
 it is not a very expensive one. 
 
 It is made as follows : 
 
 Make a sufficient quantity of good tea— it 
 is as well to mix a little green tea with black 
 tea — strain it while hot into a jug, with the 
 rind and juice of a lemon and an ounce of 
 loaf sugar to the quart. 
 
 Stand this aside to cool, and then add a 
 glass or two of any liqueur, and serve with 
 a little ice. 
 TEAL. 
 
 The flesh of this beautiful and delicate little 
 watefrfowl is highly prized. It is considered to 
 be better flavoured after the frost has set in, 
 and i^ in season from the end of September to 
 February. In addition to the ways described in 
 the following recipes, it may be served according 
 to any of those given for wild duck, though less 
 time will be required to cook it. 
 
 TEAL, DEVILLED. 
 
 Cut the remains of roast teal into neat joints ; 
 season well with salt, pepper, cayenne, and a 
 little mustard. Grill over a clear fire for eight 
 minutes, lay the joints on a hot dish, strew a 
 little chopped shallot over, with some chopped 
 parsley, and an ounce of oiled butter. 
 
 TEAL, FILLETED. 
 
 A handsome dish may be made by half roast- 
 ing the birds, then taking them down, dividing 
 them into neat joints, and stewing these for 
 eight or ten minutes in half a pint of good brown 
 gravy rather highly seasoned, and flavoured with 
 port or lemon-juice. When sufficiently dressed 
 the birds should be neatly dished upon toast, and 
 should have the gravy strained over them. A 
 little mushroom sauce should be sent to table in 
 a tureen. Three or four birds will be required 
 for this entree. Time, half an hour. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 TEAL, GRAVY FOR. 
 
 Clean the giblets and put them into a stew- 
 pan -with a pound of lean beef cut small, or 
 instead of it a table-spoonful of Bovril, a 
 moderate-sized onion chopped small, half a tea- 
 spoonful of sugar browning, two or three pepper- 
 corns, three cloves, a blade of mace, a sprig of 
 parsley, three inches of thin lemon-rind, and a 
 pint and a half of lukewarm water. Cover the 
 saucepan closely, and let its cbntents simmer 
 gently until the liquor is good, then strain and 
 cool it, and skim off the fat. Put the gravy 
 back into the saucepan with a dessert-spoonful 
 
 of mushroom ketchup, a table-spoonful of port, 
 and a little salt. Boil up once more, and serve. 
 Or put half a pint of good gravy into a sauce- 
 pan with a small onion finely minced and a roll 
 of orange- or lemon-peel. Let the sauce boil a 
 few minutes, then strain it, season with salt 
 and cayenne, and add the juice of a lemon or 
 Seville orange. Simmer a few minutes longer; 
 put with it a glassful of port or claret, and 
 send it to table very hot. A sliced lemon with- 
 out the rind is usually sent to table with roast 
 teal. 
 
 Teal pudding. 
 
 Take three teal and a pound of tender rump 
 steak. Divide the birds into neat joints, and 
 season them well with salt and cayenne. Cut up 
 the steak into pieces an inch square, season 
 them, and dredge them lightly with flour. Line 
 a shallow, thick-rimmed pudding-basin with 
 good suet pastry rolled out to the thickness of 
 half an inch, and leave an inch of crust to over- 
 lap the edge. Place in the basin a layer of steak 
 and a layer of jointed teal, and repeat until the 
 dish is full. Pour in .3, quarter of a pint of beef 
 gravy. Moisten the edges of the pastry, lay the 
 cover on the top, press the crusts closely to- 
 gether, and turn over the overlapping pastry 
 that the gravy may not escape. Tie the pudding 
 in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, 
 and keep it boiling quickly until done enough. 
 Take it up, let it stand a few minutes, and either 
 turn it out upon a hot dish, or serve in the 
 basin in which it was boiled, with a napkin 
 pinned round it. Time to boil, two hours. Suf- 
 ficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 TEAL, ROASTED. 
 
 Carefully pluck and draw the birds, and truss 
 them like wild duck. Plour them well, and put 
 them down before a brisk fire. Do not baste 
 them for the first two or three minutes, as this 
 will help to keep the gravy in ; afterwards baste 
 them liberally. When the birds are nicely 
 browned, and the steam draws to the fire, they 
 may be served. Put them on a hot dish, and 
 serve with a little brown gravy round them; 
 send a little more gravy to table in a tureen. 
 Sprinkle a pinch of cayenne on the breast, and 
 squeeze a little lemon-juice upon it at the 
 moment of serving. Send a out lemon to table 
 with the birds. A very good hash may be made 
 of the remains of teal. Time to roast, ten to 
 fifteen minutes. Probable cost, uncertain, 
 teal being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient, 
 two for a dish. 
 
 TEAL, SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Take a small onion 
 four or five leaves of 
 of a lemon shredded 
 half a pint of stock, 
 strain, and add a salt- 
 quantity of cayenne, 
 juice of a lemon, and 
 very hot. 
 
 and a shallot chopped fine, 
 sweet basU, and the peel 
 small, and put these into 
 Let this boil five minutes, 
 ■spoonful of salt, half that 
 
 a few drops of vinegar, the 
 glass of port wine. Serve 
 
 TEAL, STEWED. 
 
 Pluck, singe, and empty the birds, and truss 
 them securely. Preserve the hearts, livers, and 
 gizzards. Dredge the teal with flour, put them 
 into a saucepan with a slice of fresh butter, let 
 them brown equally all over, and take care of 
 
TEN 
 
 903 
 
 TEN 
 
 the gravy which comes from them. Let them 
 get cold, and if convenient keep them until the 
 next day. Carve them in such a way that the 
 wings and the legs shall be taken off, each with 
 a portion of breast adhering to it. Break the 
 bodies of the birds into small pieces, and stew 
 them gently with the livers, hearts, and gizzards, 
 in as much water or stock as will cover them, 
 till the gravy is quite strong. Strain it, season 
 with salt and cayenne, thicken with a little 
 brown thickening, and add a glassful of claret, 
 and, if liked, a little lemon or Seville orange- 
 juice. As soon as it begins to boil, put into it 
 the fleshy portion of the birds, and let them sim- 
 mer until they are thoroughly heated, but the 
 gravy must not boil after they are added. Cut 
 slices of stale crumb of bread sufficiently large 
 for a leg and a wing to lie on. Fry these till 
 they are lightly browned, drain them, arrange 
 them on a hot dish, place on each one a leg and 
 a wing, and pour the sauce over them. Garnish 
 with green parsley and sliced lemon. Time, one 
 hour and a half to make the gravy. Sufficient, 
 one teal for two persons. 
 
 TEDDY CAKE (American recipe). 
 
 Eub thoroughly together one quart of sifted 
 flour, half a tea-spoonful of 'salt, two tea- 
 spoonfuls of baking powder, and three table- 
 spoonfuls of butter. Mix to a soft dough with 
 sweet milk, turn out on a floured board, knead, 
 then roll out one inch thick and large enough 
 to fit into a deep frying-pan. Warm the pan, 
 grease the bottom and sides thoroughly with 
 butter or suet. Lay in the cake mixture, cover 
 closely, and draw to one side, where the heat 
 is even and moderate. Turn round from side 
 to side, so that the cake may brown evenly. 
 This will take about fifteen minutes. Slide 
 carefully out on to a plate, grease the pan, and 
 invert the oake, covering as before. When the 
 second side is browned, take up on a hot plate, 
 break into sections, split, and butter, serving 
 it hot with honey or syrup. 
 
 Cost, about 6d. 
 
 TENCH. 
 
 The tench is more of a pond than a river fish, 
 and is frequently met with in standing waters. 
 It is best for the table when taken from the 
 river. Though a much smaller fish than the 
 carp (for it seldom weighs more than four or 
 five pounds), yet it resembles the latter fish 
 in its fondness for muddy situations, which 
 imparts an unpleasant flavour to the flesh. In 
 order to free it from this it is often turned 
 for a few days into clear water, and this re- 
 moves all unpleasantness. ' 
 
 Its flesh is much richer and more delicious 
 than that of the carp. 
 
 It is in season from October to June. 
 
 Cost, very uncertain. 
 
 TENCH, BAKED. 
 
 Clean and scale the tench very carefully, and 
 remove the gills, as they are always muddy. 
 Rub the fish with lemon-juice, aind let it lie for 
 an hour; then put it into a tin, sprinkle over 
 it two shallots finely minced, and pour over it 
 four ounces of clarified butter or dripping. 
 Cover with oiled paper, and let it bake gently 
 until done enough. Baste frequently. Serve on 
 
 a hot dish, jtud pour over it a sauce prepared 
 as follows. Mix a table-spoonful of dried flour 
 smoothly with three ounces of butter, and pour 
 in a quarter of a pint of boiling water; add 
 gradually the third of a pint of milk or cream. 
 Let the sauce boil up, then stir into it four 
 moderate-sized gherkins finely minced and a 
 table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice, and it 
 will be ready for use. Serve very hot. Time to 
 bake, according to the size and thickness of the 
 fish. Probable cost, uncertain, tench being 
 seldom offered for sale. Sufficient for two 
 persons. 
 
 TENCH, BOILED. 
 
 Scale, draw, and clean the fish carefully, and 
 remove the gills. Take care of the melt or roe. 
 Lift the backbone, and rub in a little salt ; then 
 lay the tench in cold salted water for an hour 
 or more, and afterwards rinse it in fresh water. 
 Put it into a saucepan with as much boiling 
 salted water as will cover it, and let it simmer 
 till done enough. Dish the fish on a napkin, 
 garnish with curled parsley and slices of lemon, 
 and send melted butter or maitre d'hotel sauce 
 to table in a tureen. Time to boil, fifteen to 
 twenty minutes for a moderate-sized tench. 
 Probable cost, uncertain, tench being seldom 
 offered for sale.- 
 
 TENCH, BROILED, WITH FINE HERBS. 
 
 Wash, clean, and draw three or four tench, 
 and lay them in boiling water for three minutes ; 
 then scale them carefully from head to tail. 
 Lay them on a dish, and sprinkle over them a 
 little pepper and salt, an onion, a finely-minced 
 shallot, a table-spoonful of parsley chopped 
 small, and a pinch of powdered thyme. Pour 
 over the fish as much oil as will cover them, 
 and let them lie for an hour or two. Wrap 
 each fish separately with the herbs, etc., in two 
 thicknesses of writing-paper which has been 
 dipped in the oil in which the fish was placed, 
 and broil over a clear fire. When they are done 
 enough, take off the paper, and serve on a hot 
 dish, pouring piquant sauce over them. Time 
 to broil, five to ten minutes, according to size. 
 
 TENCH, CHOOSING OF. 
 
 Barbel are easily mistaken for tench, and are 
 sometimes sold as that fish. It is worth while 
 observing, therefore, that tench spawns in July, 
 so if any fish be sold for tench in March or April, 
 and proves to be full of spawn, it cannot be 
 tench, but is a cheat upon the purchaser, and 
 must be barbel. Tench is in season all the year, 
 but is most valued in the six winter months. 
 
 TENCH, FRIED. 
 
 Scale, draw, remove the gills, and clean the 
 fish with great care. Dry them well, and flour 
 them, then put them into boiling fat, and when 
 they are brown on one side turn them upon the 
 , other. Drain them on soft paper before the 
 fire, and serve on a hot dish. Garnish with 
 crisped parsley, and send a little sauce to table 
 with them in a tureen. Time to fry, six to 
 twelve minutes, according to size. 
 TENCH, FRIED (another way). 
 
 After having scaled and emptied the tench, 
 split the back of the fish, but take care not to 
 touch the belly, for if you do it will divide. 
 Let it pickle for three hours in vinegar, salt. 
 
TEN 
 
 904 
 
 TER 
 
 pepper, stalks of parsley, and onions. Then 
 drain it, and dip it into flour. Fry of a fine 
 colour and quite firm. The dripping must be 
 very hot. This you try with a drop of water, 
 which, being thrown into the dripping, occa- 
 sions a noise if it is in a proper state. Send the 
 fish up to table on a cloth with fried parsley all 
 round; if you h'Uve a soft roe, fry it likewise, 
 and serve it in the middle. 
 
 TENCH PIE. 
 
 Butter a pie-dish rather thickly, and line the 
 edges with a good crust. Put in the tench, 
 season with pepper and salt, and grate a little 
 nutmeg over it. Place small lumps of butter 
 here and there upon it, and pour over it a little 
 claret and water. Cover the dish with crust, 
 and bake the pie in a well-heated oven. Have 
 ready a little nicely-seasoned strong gravy, and 
 when the pie is done enough pour it in through 
 the hole at the top. A good pie may be made 
 with tench and eels. "Hie fish should be cut 
 into convenient - sized pieces, and placed in 
 layers in the dish with a little pepper and salt, 
 chopped parsley, and an anchovy cut small be- 
 tween each layer. Time to bake, about an 
 hour. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 TENCH, SAUCES FOR. 
 
 Tench may be served with melted butter, an- 
 chovy sauce, parsley sauce, poulette sauce, or 
 with a white sauce prepared as follows. Rub 
 u, large lump of butter to a smooth paste with 
 a tea-spoonful of flour. Add a table-spoonful of 
 water, and stir the mixture over the fire for 
 two minutes. Pour in a quarter of a pint of 
 thick cream, or, failing cream, use milk. Have 
 a filleted anchovy finely minced. Stir the sauce 
 over the fire until it is on the point of boiling, 
 add a table-spoonful of Indian soy, pour it into 
 a tureen, stir for a minute or two, put with it a 
 little pepper and salt and a table-spoonful of 
 strained lemon-juice. 
 
 TENCH, STEWED. 
 
 Take about two pounds of tench; clean, 
 scale, and draw the fish carefully, and remove 
 the gills. Put six ounces of good dripping or 
 butter into a stewpan with a mushroom chopped 
 small, a, sliced carrot, a finely-minced onion, a 
 turnip, a, bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, 
 a bay-leaf, the thin rind of half a lemon, and 
 two or three cloves. Stir these over a clear fire 
 for six or eight minutes, then dredge over them 
 a, table-spoonful of flour, and pour in half a 
 pint of stock or water and the strained juice 
 of two lemons. Put in the tench, and let it 
 boil, then add half » tumblerful of claret, a 
 table-spoonful of Worcester sauce, a little salt, 
 and a pinch of cayenne. Draw the saucepan 
 tD the side of the fire, and let its contents sim- 
 mer very gently until done enough. Take the 
 fish up, place it on a hot dish, and put it in the 
 oven until the sauce is ready. Strain the sauce, 
 skim carefully, pour it over the fish, and serve 
 immediately with some toasted sippets, the roe 
 fried, a little horse-radish, and lemon. Time 
 to simmer, half an hour. Probable cost, un- 
 certain. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 TENCH, STEWED (another way). 
 
 Take three or four moderate - sized tench ; 
 clean, scale, and draw them, andTcut them into 
 
 convenient-sized pieces. Put them in a stew- 
 pan with three or four large mushrooms chopped 
 small, a dozen button onions, a blade of mace, 
 two anchovies, a shallot, a tea-spoonful of 
 mixed parsley, a pinch of thyme, and a little 
 pepper and salt. Pour over them as much 
 nicely-flavoured stock as will cover them, add 
 a glassful of port or claret, and simmer the fish 
 gently for half an hour. Open a dozen oysters, 
 beard them, and preserve their liquor; dip 
 them for an instant into cold water; put them 
 into a saucepan for a few minutes with the 
 liquor, and let them heat gently for three or 
 four minutes, till they look plump, then add 
 them to the other ingredients. Dish the tench, 
 pour the sauce over, and serve. 
 
 TENCH, STEWED (another way). 
 
 Put them into a bowl, and leave a little of 
 their liquor upon them to keep them moist. 
 Strain the gravy from the tench, place the fish 
 on a hot dish, and keep it hot. Thicken the 
 gravy with a little flour, and let it boil. Put 
 the oysters and their liquor into it, but on no 
 account allow it to bdil after they are added. 
 Pour the sauce over the fish, and serve hot. 
 Garnish with fried sippets. Time, three-quar- 
 ters of an hour. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 TENCH, STEWED, WITH POULETTE SAUCE. 
 
 Take about two pounds of tench; draw and 
 clean the fish carefully, and remove the gills. 
 Put it into boiling water for three minutes, then 
 remove the scales, and cut the fish into con- 
 venient-sized pieces. Mix two ounces of butter 
 and one ounce and a half of flour over a clear 
 fire until quite smooth. Add as much common 
 French wine or cider as will cover the fish, and 
 let it boil for eight or ten minutes. Put with 
 it a small bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, 
 a bay-leaf, a moderate-sized onion, and a little 
 pepper and salt. Add the fish, and let it stew 
 gently over a slow fire until done enough. 
 Strain the sauce, and mix part of it with the 
 well-beaten yolks of three eggs in a basin, and 
 pour this to the remainder. Stir it over a gentle 
 fire until it is very hot without boiling, and add 
 a table-spoonful of chopped parsley. Arrange 
 the slices of tench upon a hot dish, pour the 
 sauce over them, and serve very hot. The dish 
 may be garnished with the fried roe, toasted 
 sippets, and a little parsley and horse-radish. 
 Time to simmer the fish, about twenty minutes. 
 Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 TENCH, STEWED, WITH WINE. 
 
 Clean the fish, lay them in a saucepan, add 
 three-quarters of a pint of stock, and a quarter 
 of a pint of sherry, and boil gently for forty 
 minutes. Mix a tea-spoonful of flour smoothly 
 with a spoonful of cold stock; strain half a 
 pint of the stock the fish was cooked in into 
 a fresh saucepan, add the flour to this, and stir 
 them over the fire for three or four minutes 
 until the sauce thickens ; season with pepper and 
 salt. Dish the tench on a very hot dish, pour 
 the sauce over, and serve. 
 
 TERRAPIN. 
 
 The fresh-water tortoises called terrapin are 
 considered a great delicacy in the United States, 
 and they are occasionally imported into this 
 
THI 
 
 905 
 
 THI 
 
 country. The following is an approved method 
 of cooking them. They must be killed like 
 lobsters by being placed in boiling water. Skin 
 them when killed, and cut off the claws; wash 
 and put them on again to boil, with a tea- 
 spoonful of salt to every two terrapin. Remove 
 the galls carefully ; cut up the meat ; season 
 with pepper, mace, and nutmeg, and put in a 
 stewpan with the juice of the meat; and, for 
 «ach brace of terrapin, three ounces of butter 
 and flour incorporated, a glass of sherry, and 
 the beaten yolks of two eggs. The wine and 
 eggs mvist be added after the whole is stewed 
 perfectly tender. 
 
 THICKENING. 
 
 Sauces and soups may be thickened in various 
 ways, and the different processes are spoken of 
 in the professional nomenclature as liaisons ; 
 thus we have liaisons of roux and liaisons of 
 pggs. Soups are thickened also with vegetables, 
 and with farinaceous substances, such as sago 
 and tapioca, and when these are used, they are 
 generally boiled with the liquor, according to 
 the directions given in each recipe. In ordinary 
 domestic cookery, however, the word " thicken- 
 ing " is generally understood as specially de- 
 noting the brown or white thickening for sauces, 
 made of flour and butter, and called by the 
 French roux ; and as these preparations, though 
 easy to make, require both time and care, de- 
 tailed directions are given in their proper place 
 for making them. Common cooks are accus- 
 tomed to dispense with this properly-prepared 
 roux, and to thicken their sauces with a hastily- 
 made paste of flour, and to\ colour them with 
 burnt sugar; the consequence is their sauces 
 often taste either musty, gruelly, or burnt. 
 Those who have not hitherto done so, would find 
 it to their advantage to avail themselves of 
 the first leisure hour they have at their disposal, 
 to make a quantity of the true brown thicken- 
 ing, and then to put it aside to be used when 
 required : it is as easy to make a large quantity 
 as a small. The roux will keep for three or four 
 months, and the sauces thickened with it are 
 rich and brown in appearance. 
 
 THICKENING, BROWN. 
 
 Take a pound of flour. Spread it on a news- 
 paper or large dish, and dry it thoroughly be- 
 fore the fire, and afterwards sift it carefully. 
 Put a pound of fresh butter into a stewpan 
 over a gentle fire, and melt it very gradually. 
 Skim carefully, and afterwards pour off the 
 portion that looks like clear oil, and leave un- 
 touched the white thick substance which will 
 have settled at the bottom. Pour the clear 
 oiled butter into a clean stewpan, mix the dried 
 and sifted flour thoroughly and gradually with 
 it, and beat it over a gentle fire with a wooden 
 spoon until it forms a thick mass. Continue 
 to stir it patiently until it is lightly coloured. 
 Draw it to the side of the fire, and throw in with 
 it a slice of onion for flavouring, and do not 
 cease to stir the mixture until it no longer 
 bubbles. Take out the onion, pour the roux 
 into an earthen jar, and let it get cold. It then 
 will be ready for use. When wanted for 
 thickening, mix the roux with the sauce, and 
 stir it till it boils. The sauce only attains its 
 proper consistency after it has been stirred and 
 
 boiled. This thickening may be mixed with 
 either hot or cold liquor. If cold, stir it over 
 the flre till it boils. If hot, moisten the roux 
 gradually, and off the fire, with the sauce, then 
 pour it into the remainder, and stir it over the 
 fire till it boils. In order to cleanse sauce that 
 has been thickened, that is, to remove the fat 
 which has not become thoroughly incorporated 
 with the gravy, draw the saucepan to the side 
 of the fire, and throw in a small quantity of 
 lukewarm water. The fat, etc., will rise to the 
 surface, and may be removed with a spoon. 
 Time to brown the roux, about an hour. A 
 dessert-spoonful will thicken « pint of gravy, 
 
 THICKENING, BROWN (M. Ude's way). 
 
 Put into a stewpan a piece of butter propor- 
 tionate to the quantity of thickening intended 
 to be prepared. Melt it gently; take out the 
 buttermilk, then put flour enough to make a 
 paste. Fry it on a slow fire, and then put it 
 again over very red ashes till it be of a nice 
 colour. Observe, this is to be obtained only by 
 slow degrees. When of a light brown pour it 
 into an earthen pan, and preserve for use. It 
 will keep for a long time. 
 THICKENING OF EGG. 
 
 Boil the sauce, and take it off the fire for two 
 minutes that it may partially cool. Beat the 
 yolks of the eggs, and mix them with a spoonful 
 of cold broth or water and a small portion of 
 the hot sauce. Stir them briskly to the re- 
 mainder of the sauce, and continue stirring over 
 the fire until it is very hot. It must not boil 
 or it will curdle. 
 
 THICKENING OF FARINACEOUS SUBSTANCES. 
 
 Occasionally arrowroot, ground rice, or flour 
 without butter, is used to thicken soups and 
 sauces. In this case put the thickening sub- 
 stance into a basin, moisten gradually with a 
 little cold stock, water, or milk, and beat it 
 with the back of, a spoon until no lumps are 
 to be found in it. With one hand pour this 
 batter into the soup or sauce, which should be 
 boiling quickly at the time, and with the other 
 stir it briskly. Let it boil for a few minutes, 
 and it will be ready for serving. Invalids and 
 persons of delicate taste often object strongly 
 to butter in their sauces. 
 
 THICKENING, QUICKLY MAIDE(for immediate use). 
 
 When it is wished to thicken sauces, and 
 brown thickening is not at hand, dissolve half 
 an ounce of butter, and then mix smoothly with 
 it a table-spoonful of flour. Stir it quickly 
 over a gentle fire with a wooden spoon for three 
 minutes, moisten gradually with a pint of stock 
 or broth, let it boil three or four minutes, season 
 properly, and it will be ready for use. Suf- 
 ficient for a pint of sauce. 
 
 THICKENING, SIMPLE, FOR ORDINARY BROWN 
 SOUP. 
 
 Put a breakfast-cupful of stock into a sauce- 
 pan with a quarter of an ounce of sage, a 
 quarter of an ounce of chopped onion, a quarter 
 of an ounce of grated lemon-peel, and two 
 ounces of celery. Let these simmer gently for 
 half an hour, strain the liquor, and rub the 
 herbs through a fine sieve. Dissolve six ounces 
 of butter, and incorporate with it, gradually and 
 thoroughly, six ounces of dried flour. Stir it 
 
THI 
 
 906 
 
 TIM 
 
 quickly over a gentle fire till it is lightly 
 browned. Moisten the mixture with the liquor 
 from the herbs, and it will be ready for the soup, 
 which ought to boil for an hour after it is 
 added. Suitable seasoning will, of course, be 
 required in addition. Time, three-quarters of 
 an hour. Suiiicieiit for five quarts of soup. 
 
 THICKENING, WHITE, FOR SAUCES. 
 
 In making white thickening for sauces, follow 
 exactly the directions given for making brown 
 thickening (see Thickening, Bbown), remember- 
 ing only that the mixture must not be allowed 
 to colour. In order to prevent this it must be 
 baked over a very gentle fire, and it must not 
 remain on the fire so long as in the former case. 
 When done enough it must be turned into an 
 earthen jar, and set aside for use. White 
 thickening is used for thickening white sauces. 
 Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Suf- 
 ficient, a dessert-spoonful will thicken a pint 
 of gravy. 
 
 THICKENING, WITH BUTTER, OR BUTTER AND 
 CREAM. 
 
 Although it is usual to speak of thickening 
 sauce or soup with butter or butter and cream, 
 these articles do not by themselves serve to 
 thicken the liquor, but only to make it smooth 
 and rich. A little cold butter added at the 
 last moment to sauce greatly improves its 
 flavour; but it should be remembered that it 
 must not be put in until the sauce is poured 
 into the tureen in which it is to be served, and 
 that then it should be stirred until it is dis- 
 solved. In the same way, butter or a mixture 
 of butter and cream may be added to soups. 
 THICK TOMATO SAUCE. 
 
 Put one-half of a tin of tomatoes, or six 
 large ones, sliced finely, into a saucepan; add 
 three cloves, a quarter of a bay-leaf, half a 
 tea-spoonful of salt, a third of a tea-spoonful 
 of white pepper, aud half a Spanish onion cut 
 fine. Cover, and simmer gently for twenty 
 minutes; then press through a sieve. This is 
 to keep back the skins, which are tough and 
 unpleasant. Now melt two table-spoonfuls of 
 butter in a clean saucepan, and gradually stir 
 in two table-spoonfuls of flour. To this add 
 very gradually, the strained tomato juice, 
 which will measure about one pint; stir until 
 the sauce is smoothly thickened. Season with 
 salt and pepper to taste, add a dash of cayenne, 
 and simmer for five minutes. 
 
 Probable cost, 8d. 
 
 THORNBACK. 
 
 This is a very peculiar-looking fish, not well 
 known. It is a species of skate. It grows to 
 the length of two feet, and its flesh is con- 
 sidered excellent food. It is in the highest per- 
 fection during the autumn aud winter months. 
 It is very common on the English and Irish 
 coasts. 
 
 The parts which, may be called the wings 
 of the thornback should be cut in strips and 
 laid in salt and water for a day or two to 
 take away the raw, coarse taste which belong'S 
 to them when freshly dressed. Washing in 
 salt water is the proper thing to do in all cases 
 of fish of this species. 
 
 Cost varies, but generally inexpensive. 
 
 THORNBACK, BOILED. 
 
 Take a thornback of tolerable size, clean it 
 with scrupulous care, and skin it. Lay in the 
 fish-kettle the part usually eaten, cover it with 
 cold water, and add two ounces of salt and a 
 table-spoonful of vinegar to two quarts of water. 
 Bring the liquor to the boil, skim it well, and 
 let the fish boil gently until the flesh will part 
 easily from the bone, which is a sign that it is 
 sufficiently dressed. Lift the fish out carefully 
 and drain it. Serve on a dish covered with a 
 hot napkin, and garnish with green parsley and 
 sliced lemon. Send melted butter or anchovy 
 sauce to table in a tureen. If liked, the fins 
 of the fish may be fried separately. Time to 
 boil, according to size. 
 
 THORNBACK, FRIED. 
 
 Clean and skin the fish, cut into slices about 
 an inch thick the part which is usually eaten, 
 and dry them with a soft cloth. Dredge them 
 with flour, and let them lie for half an hour or 
 more. Fry them in hot fat until they are 
 brightly browned, and when they are done upon 
 one side turn them upon the other. Drain them 
 on blotting-paper to clear them from fat, and 
 serve on a hot dish. Garnish with parsley. 
 If preferred, the slices may be dipped in egg 
 and bread-crumbs instead of being floured before 
 they are fried. Time to fry, ten to twelve 
 minutes. Probable cost, variable, but generally 
 inexpensive. 
 
 THYME. 
 
 Thyme is a herb much valued on account of 
 its strong, pungent, aromatic odour and taste. 
 
 TIMBALE OF MACAEONI 
 
 Three varieties are used in cookery — common 
 thyme, lemon thyme, and orange thyme. Lemon 
 thyme and common thyme should be dried at 
 the end of July and during August. Orange 
 thyme is ready a little earlier, and may be dried 
 in June and July. Although thyme is most 
 valuable for flavouring when judiciously used, 
 it is apt to impart a bitter tasLe to any prepara^- 
 tion to which it is added in too large quantities. 
 
 TIMBALE, FOR MACARONI, ETC. 
 
 The paste for a hot timbale should be a little 
 more delicate than for a, cold pie; therefore 
 
TIM 
 
 907 
 
 TIM 
 
 put more butter into it. Take a pound of flour, 
 a little more than lialf a pound of butter, two 
 yolks of eggs, and a pinch of salt. Work these 
 with half a glassful of wg,ter, making the paste 
 as smooth as possible; proceed then as follows. 
 Butter a plain mould well all over, decorate the 
 bottom a little and the sides by using some 
 of the same paste and adding some pounded 
 sugar; the paste will take a browner colour, 
 and will add to the appearance of the tim- 
 bales. Spread the paste over a dresser, cut a 
 piece the size of the bottom of the mould 
 (using the mould to measure with), and covei 
 the bottom of the mould and all the decorations 
 without disturbing them ; water the ornamented 
 paste as above, then stick the other paste lightly 
 over, and cut a bit to put all round over the 
 decorated parts. EoU a little paste also to 
 stick the whole together round the bottom, 
 then fill the mould with beef suet chopped fine, 
 and make a cover to it ; put this case into the 
 oven for an hour, and when done empty it for 
 use. It may be used for macaroni, fricassee, 
 blanquettes of every kind, etc. etc. 
 
 TIMBALE OF MACARONI. 
 
 Put half a pound of the best tape macaroni 
 in a stewpan with three pints of boiling water 
 and a little pepper and salt. Let it simmer 
 gently for twenty minutes, then drain it, put 
 it back with half a pint of broth, and let it 
 simmer until it will divide easily without being 
 too soft. Cut it into short lengths of uniform 
 size, and cover the inside of a thickly-buttered 
 mould with it quite closely and neatly. Spread 
 over the macaroni a little good forcemeat 
 seasoned suitably to whatever is to constitute 
 the contents of the timbale, and afterwards fill 
 up the mould with highly-seasoned mince of 
 game or poultry. Moisten with good sauce, 
 cover over the preparation, and let it simmer 
 gently until done enough. If liked, three or 
 four small timbales may be made instead of one 
 large one, and their appearance may be varied 
 by placing a truffle in the centre of the mould 
 so that it will be at the top when the timbale 
 h turned out. These small timbales have a 
 pretty appearance. A. suitable sauce should be 
 sent to table with them. Minced game of all 
 kinds, minced sweetbreads, and minced ox 
 palates are suitable for the interior of timbales. 
 Time to simmer, nearly an hour. Probable cost, 
 varying with the contents. Sufficient for six 
 or seven persons. 
 TIMBALES. 
 
 Timbales are French dishes, so named from 
 timbale, a metal cup, because they are generally 
 made in plain moulds, either round or oval. 
 They are excellent and pretty, but difficult to 
 make, as they require both care and practice to 
 make them properly. They rather resemble our 
 raised pies. The outer case may be constructed 
 of short paste, macaroni, rice, or other sub- 
 stances, and they may be filled with any nicely- 
 flavoured fricassee of fowl or game, or with 
 fruit and sweetmeats. Two or three simple 
 recipes are given here, which may be varied 
 according to taste. 
 TIMBALES OF RICE, WITH FRUIT. 
 
 Wash a quarter of a pound of best Carolina 
 rice, drain it on a hair sieve, and put it in a 
 
 clean saucepan with a pint of cold new milk, 
 a pinch of salt, and three or four large lumps of 
 sugar which have been rubbed upon the rind of 
 a fresh lemon or a Seville orange to extract the 
 flavour. Put the saucepan at the side of the 
 fire that the rice may swell very slowly and 
 gradually; then stir it well, put it on the fire, 
 add a lump of butter the size of a walnut, and 
 let the rice boil gently until it has absorbed 
 all the milk and is so tender that it can be 
 crushed to a smooth paste with the back of a 
 wooden spoon. Unless it is allowed to boil 
 very gently and till it is quite dry it will not 
 answer the purpose. Have ready some small 
 buttered cups, beat the rice well, press it into 
 the cups while it is still warm, and let it re- 
 main in them until quite cold. Boil the strained 
 juice of a large fresh lemon with a quarter of 
 a pound of loaf sugar to a clear syrup, and slice 
 into this six apples peeled and cored. Let them 
 simmer gently until reduced to pulp, take them 
 off the fire for a minute or two, and stir 
 gradually into them the well-beaten yolks of 
 four eggs. Beat them over the fire for two 
 minutes, then let them cool. Turn the rice 
 out of the moulds. If it is found to be at all 
 difficult to do this, set the cups lu hot water for 
 .a minute or two, again reverse them on a 
 baking-tin, and with the point of a sharp knife 
 carefiilly scoop out a hollow in the centre of 
 each. Pill this with the prepared apples, and 
 brush the timbales all over with the white of 
 egg whisked to a froth and mixed with pow- 
 dered and sifted sugar. Pour upon the fruit as 
 much of this icing as is left, and bake the 
 timbales in a well-heated oven. Serve very hot. 
 Time to bake the timbales, a quarter of ajo. hour. 
 Probable cost, 3d. each. Sufficient for a small 
 dish. 
 
 TIMBALES, SMALL (for all sorts of Entrees). 
 
 Butter a dozen dariole-moulds thoroughly, 
 spread some trimmings of pufE-paste on the 
 dresser, cut with a cutter a round of paste 
 large enough to "fill the mould, have a bit of 
 paste of the same form as the inside of- the 
 mould, but not so large; put the round piece 
 over the latter, let it fall all round, and then 
 introduce this into the mould. Press equally 
 everywhere with your finger to keep the paste 
 the same thickness, cut ofE all the paste that 
 is above the rim, fill the mould with trimmings 
 of paste, and put on a false cover to prevent the 
 border of the paste from taking a bad colour. 
 A dozen is always sufficient, except when the 
 dishes are very large. Bake them of a good 
 colour; when done, empty all the inside, and 
 garnish with whatever you may think proper. 
 For pates au jus (with gravy), fill the inside 
 with godiveau (which see), and bake them with 
 false covers. When done, take off the cover, 
 and open them with a knife to let in a spoonful 
 of Espagnole sauce, then cover them with small 
 covers made of puff-paste that you have been 
 particular to make of the proper size and a 
 good colour, and serve up very hot. It is 
 almost needless to say that the same paste and 
 the same preparation will serve for a dozen 
 different sorts, such as salpicon, soft roe of 
 mackerel, lobster, sweetbread, fat liver and 
 truffles, soft roe of cod, turbot, sole, etc. 
 
TiM 
 
 908 
 
 TIN 
 
 TIMBALES, SMALL (for Fruit, Jellies, or Creams). 
 Weigh three large fresh eggs, and then take 
 their weight in flour and half their weight in 
 powdered sugar. Break the eggs, and separate 
 the yolks and the whites. Beat the yolks in a 
 basin, and add to them first the sugar and after- 
 wards the flour. When they are thoroughly 
 mixed, and just before the timbales are to be 
 baked, add the well-whisked whites of the eggs 
 and a tea-spoonful of strained lemon-juice. 
 Drop the paste in small lumps upon a buttered 
 baking-tin, and hollow these in the centre like 
 a cup. Bake them in a slow oven, and when 
 they are done enough, trim them to a neat 
 shape. Keep them in a dry, warm place until 
 wanted; and when they are to be served fill 
 them with fruit, jelly, or flavoured cream. Time 
 to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, without 
 the contents, 2d. each. Sufficient for a small 
 dish. 
 
 riMBALE, VEAL AND HAM. 
 
 Make two pounds of good short pastry, such 
 as would be suitable for meat pies, and with 
 two-thirds of this line a well-buttered plain 
 round mould. Cut three pounds of the fillet of 
 veal into pieces an inch square, and make three- 
 quarters of a pound of good veal forcemeat. 
 Fill the pie with alternate layers of the veal; 
 thin rashers of fat bacon, the forcemeat and 
 dressed ham, and season each layer separately 
 and rather highly. Roll out the remainder of 
 the paste, and cover the timbale. Press it 
 down, and trim neatly. EoU out the trimmings, 
 and stamp out leaves or any fancy shapes, and 
 with them ornament the surface. Brush it over 
 with yolk of egg, and bake in a well-heated 
 oven. About twenty minutes before the tim- 
 bale is done, take it out, and pour in through the 
 hole at the top a little nicely-seasoned dissolved 
 aspic jelly made from the bones and trimmings 
 of the veal stewed down with a cow-heel. The 
 veal will be much improved if it is larded with 
 the bacon instead of having the latter simply 
 laid upon it. If it should be preferred, any 
 kind of nicely-seasoned fricassee may be used 
 instead of the veal and ham. Time to bake, 
 from two to three hours. Probable cost, 7s. 6d. 
 Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 TINNED MEATS, AUSTRALIAN AND OTHER. 
 
 The following original recipes are the result of 
 several years' experience in the use of tinned 
 meats. Against these considerable prejudice 
 exists, owing, to a great extent, to the fact 
 that few know how to cook them properly. If 
 the recipes here given, however, are followed, 
 it will be found easy, even for a cook of 
 moderate abilities, to prepare from tinned 
 meats a succession of tasty as well as digestible 
 and nourishing dishes. 
 
 1. Baked Pie. 
 
 Make two pounds of short-paste, line a 
 buttered oblong tin mould, fill the pie with 
 alternate layers of beef, mutton, bacon, and 
 sliced apples, season each layer with pepper 
 and salt, chopped onion (boiled), and chopped 
 sage-leaves; pour over all a little good gravy, 
 cover with paste, cut it evenly round, mark 
 it round with the paste - nippers, and after 
 brushing over with egg bake till the crust is 
 quite done. 
 
 2. Beet a la Modb. 
 Take and roll in flour two pounds of Austra- 
 lian beef, cut into pieces about the size of a 
 walnut. Melt the dripping which is with it in 
 the tin, and mix with it very smoothly two 
 table-spoonfuls of ground rice, and one pint and 
 a half of nicely-flavoured stock. Add two bay- 
 leaves, seven black peppercorns, a salt-spoonful 
 of salt, a dessert-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, 
 and an onion with four cloves stuck in it. Let 
 all boil up together ; then simmer gently for 
 twenty minutes. Strain the liquid, return it 
 to the saucepan, and colour it with a little 
 browning; or if this is not at hand, put two 
 or three lumps of sugar into an iron spoon, and 
 melt them over the fire until the sugar is a 
 dark brown — not black. Dilute this with a little 
 boiling water, and add it to the gravy, which 
 ought to be a rich brown colour and as thick 
 as cream. Put in the pieces of meat, let them 
 simmer for three or four minutes, and serve on 
 a hot dish. Time, one hour. Probable cost, 
 Ifi. 6d. Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 3. Beef and Hau Bissoles. 
 Mince equal parts of beef and bread, half the 
 quantity of ham, and a fourth part of finely- 
 chopped suet. Add pepper, salt, nutmeg, and 
 a well-beaten egg; mix all well together, and 
 roll into balls; flour well, and fry in boiling 
 fat. Serve with thick brown gravy. 
 
 i. Beef and Habicot Beans. 
 Prepare the meat as in No7 27; prepare the 
 beans as follows. Shell a pint of the large 
 white sort (they should lie in water all night), 
 put them in sufficient water to cover them, with 
 an ounce of the fat from the tin. Let them boil 
 till quite tender (they will take three hours); 
 rub through a wire sieve — ^they should be very 
 thick — season nicely, add one ounce of butter, 
 and return to the stewpan. Stir till hot, and 
 serve round the beef. 
 
 6. Beef and Kidneits. 
 Pry beef in slices and kidneys in very thin 
 slices, lay them alternately one over the other; 
 pour over them a rich brown gravy, and serve 
 with fried bacon laid over them at intervals. 
 
 6. Beef and Macaroni. 
 Put four ounces of macaroni into sufficient 
 boiling water, and let it atew until tender. 
 Mince finely two pounds of tinned beef, flavour 
 it with salt, pepper, and a little powdered 
 cinnamon. Make it quite hot, moistening it 
 with a cupful of nicely-flavoured stock; lay it 
 on a round of toast, wfth the macaroni over it, 
 and serve with hot mashed potatoes. Time to 
 boil the macaroni, one hour and a half. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient for six persons. . 
 
 7. Beef and Mushbooms. 
 Take half a pint of button mushrooms, pare 
 them, cut the ends off the stalks, and place 
 them in cold water. Melt a piece of butter in 
 a stewpan, put the mushrooms into i% with a 
 little pepper and salt, and the juice of a lemon. 
 Let them simmer gently until tender ; then add 
 a cupful of nicely-flavoured stock, and put with 
 them one pound of tinned beef, cut into square 
 pieces about the size of a walnut, and thickly 
 dredged with flour. Let it simmer slowly, being 
 
TIN 
 
 909 
 
 TIN 
 
 careful that it does not burn, and serve as hot 
 as possible, with sippets round the dish. Time 
 to stew the oiushroonis, twenty-five minutes ; 
 with the meat, four minutes. Probable cost. 
 Is. 2d. SufScient for four or five persons. 
 
 8. Beef and Tomatoes. 
 Scald a dozen tomatoes and place them in a 
 stewpan with a little salt and three ounces of 
 butter. Let them stew very gently till tender. 
 Then heat the contents of a two-pound tin of 
 beef. Place the meat on a hot dish, and the 
 tomatoes round it, and serve with mashed 
 potatoes. Time to stew the tomatoes, half an 
 hour; to warm the meat, ten minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, 2s. 4d. SufBLcient for four persons. 
 
 9. Beef and Tomato Satjoe. 
 Put in a stewpan six sliced shallots, a bay- 
 leaf, a little thyme, and a wine-glassful of 
 vinegar. Boil gently for five minutes; add a 
 quarter of a pound of tomato pulp, one ounce 
 of butter, one tea-spoonful of anchovy. Stir till 
 the sauce has boiled a few minutes longer. 
 Strain through a coarse tin strainer over slices 
 of fried beef, and serve. 
 
 10. Beef (au Diable). 
 Cut inch-thick slices, across the grain, of 
 beef, cover them with the following mixture, 
 and fry. One spoonful of made mustard, ditto 
 chutney, ditto anchovy, double the quantity of 
 salad-oil, and a pinch of cayenne pepper. 
 
 H. Beef (au Fromage). 
 Mince finely a pound of tinned beef, season 
 it with pepper and salt, nutmeg, and a chopped 
 shallot ; boxl some macaroni tender in broth, 
 lay the mince in a pie-dish, cover with the 
 macaroni, pour on it a tea-cupful of the broth, 
 pepper it, and grate two ounces of cheese over 
 it. Bake a quarter of an hour in a hot oven. 
 
 12. Beef (au Gratin). 
 
 Mince two pounds of beef, mix with it half a 
 pound of minced bacon, season the whole with 
 pepper and salt and nutmeg ; lay it in a shallow 
 dish, spread grated bread-crumbs over it half 
 an inch thick, bake half an hour, and serve, 
 putting the dish in another before sending to 
 table. 
 
 13. Beef, Cold. 
 
 The bull's-head knife is the best for opening 
 tins. Make a hole with the sharp point about 
 half an inch from the top. Put the sharp end 
 of the knife into the hole and work round until 
 the top of the tin is taken completely off. Turn 
 the meat out firm into the dish. Remove every 
 particle of dripping and jelly, and serve with 
 salad, pickles, and mashed potatoes. The drip- 
 ping may be clarified, and used for frying or 
 making plain pastry, and the jelly is a valuable 
 addition to stock or beef-tea. Sufficient, one 
 two-pound tin for four persons. 
 
 14. Beef Collops. 
 Mince finely one pound of tinned beef. Place 
 a piece of butter the size of an egg in a sauce- 
 pan, and when melted fry in it one onion 
 chopped small, till it is lightly browned. Then 
 add a cupful of nicely-flavoured stock, the juice 
 of a lemon, a tea-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, 
 pepper and salt to taste, and the mince. Let -^ 
 
 all simmer together a minute, then serve in a 
 hot dish with sippets of toast. Sufficient foK 
 three or four persons. 
 
 15. Beef, Cueried. 
 Melt in a saucepan a piece of butter the size 
 of a large egg, and place in it half a Spanish 
 onion sliced. Fry it to a light brown ; then add 
 a sour apple, finely minced, and a cupful of 
 nicely-flavoured stock. Work in very smoothly 
 a table-spoonful of curry-powder and one of 
 curry-paste. Let all boil together, stirring all 
 the time, for three or four minutes, press the 
 sauce through a sieve, and add square pieces of 
 tinned beef dredged with flour. Simmer five 
 minutes longer, during which time the meat 
 must be covered with the gravy. Serve with n 
 border of boiled rice round the dish, and the 
 meat and gravy in the middle. Time to prepare 
 ten minutes. Allow the contents of a two- 
 pound tin for six people. Probable cost. Is. 8d. 
 
 16. Beef Feibd m Battbe. 
 Cut some neat pieces of beef an inch thick, 
 flour well, and dip in a batter made according 
 to No. 106. Have ready some boiling fat in a 
 frying-pan, lay in the pieces of meat gently, so 
 as not to break them; fry a light brown, and 
 serve with gravy in a sauceboat. 
 
 17. Beef, Feibd, with Suet Dumplings. 
 Cut some nice neat pieces of beef across the 
 grain, flour them well, pepper and salt them, 
 and then fry in Australian fat till of a nice 
 brown ; place in a hot dish, and put it in the 
 oven to keep hot till you have the dumplings 
 ready. Roll up a table-spoonful of paste (see 
 No. 79) in well-floured hands, and drop into a 
 fiercely-boiling saucepan of water; as the 
 dumplings rise, take them out, and lay them 
 round the meat in the dish, pour a little thick 
 brown gravy over, and serve.- 
 
 18. Beef Pie. 
 Cut the meat from a tin of Australian beef 
 into pieces about the size of a walnut and lay 
 them in a pie-dish, with pepper, salt, and a 
 little nicely-flavoured stock. Cover the . whole 
 with mashed potatoes about an inch and a half 
 in thickness, and brown in a good ov&. Time 
 to brown, twenty minutes. A pie made with 
 two pounds of meat is sufficient for four or five 
 persons. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 19. Beef Rissoles. 
 Mince finely one pound of Australian beef 
 and half a pound of bread-crumbs. Mix 
 thoroughly with it a quarter of a pound of 
 dripping, a little salt, a rather plentiful supply 
 of pepper, and one egg well beaten. Roll into 
 pats, dip them in egg and bread, and fry in 
 boiling oil or lard until they are nicely browned. 
 Serve in a dish with a little good gravy round 
 them. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable 
 cost, led. Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 20. Beef Tea. 
 Turn out a tin of Australian beef. Take a 
 tea-cupful of the clear jelly without a particle 
 of fat, melt it in the oven, season with pepper 
 and salt, and brown with a few drops of colour- 
 ing. Toast a thin slice of bread crisply, cut it 
 into dice, and serve in the tin or on a small plate. 
 
TIN 
 
 910 
 
 TIN 
 
 21. Beei', with Savouby Pudding. 
 ' Fry the beef as in recipe No. 23, and place 
 round the dish in neat slices the following 
 savoury pudding. Pour boiling milk on some 
 bread rubbed fine, add four large table-spoon- 
 fuls of fine oatmeal, two well-beaten eggs, 
 pepper and salt, a little onion chopped fine, 
 dried and rubbed sage and sweet marjoram, half 
 a tea-spoonful of each. The compound should 
 be as stiff as thick batter. Beat all well to- 
 gether, and bake in a dripping-pan in which it 
 will lay an inch thick, cut up like Yorkshire 
 pudding, and serve with good gravy. 
 
 22. Beef, with Sheep's Livbe. 
 Cut up thick slices of beef and thin slices of 
 liver, pepper and salt both, and flour them well. 
 Put the liver into a dripping-pan with equal 
 slices of good bacon and a pint of water ; cover 
 them with very thin slices of onion; let them 
 cook thoroughly, stirring them every five 
 minutes, and flouring them well each time. 
 When the liver is thoroughly done put in the 
 beef; stir about gently to give it the flavour of 
 the gravy, and when quite hot serve. 
 
 23. BounxABAissB. 
 Divide two Portugal onions in quarters, and 
 having shred these, fry them in a stewpan with 
 two table-spoonfuls of oil, then add two tea- 
 spoonfuls of pepper, a little salt, and a quart of 
 water. Boil five minutes, and add some Aus- 
 tralian beef cut in dice. Heat well through, 
 and serve very hot. 
 
 24. Bbeast of Mtjtton {k I'Australienne). 
 Bone a breast of mutton, flatten it out well, 
 lay over it a mince made of tinned mutton well 
 seasoned, roll it up very tightly, and tie securely 
 with tape. Bake in a quick oven, and serve, 
 after untying it, with this sauce : — Cut up into 
 very small pieces an ounce of lean ham or bacon, 
 the same quantity of carrot, celery, and onion, 
 a bay-leaf, a little thyme, twenty peppercorns, 
 and a bit of mace. Fry these in a piece of butter 
 the size of a walnut till the whole gets well 
 browned ; add a wine-glassful of vinegar, half a 
 wine-glassful of ketchup, and a tea-spoonful of 
 anchovy liquor. When this sauce has boiled to 
 half its original quantity add one pint of melted 
 butter coloured brown, two table-spoonfuls of 
 stock, and a wine-glassful of sherry. Boil 
 gently, remove the grease, and strain, 
 
 25. BlTBELE AND SQTTEAK. 
 
 Prepare some mince (see No. 12); put it into 
 a round basin, and then into the oven to keep 
 warm. Boil some cabbage tender, chop it up, 
 and stir over the fire in a stewpan with an ounce 
 of butter and pepper and salt till well heated. 
 Then turn out the meat on to a dish, lay the 
 cabbage round it half way up the shape of meat, 
 place some strips of boiled bacon all round that 
 part of the meat that is left uncovered, and serve. 
 
 26. Cakes of Meat. 
 Prepare some mince ; to each table-spoonful 
 of mince add one tea-spoonful of bread-crumbs, 
 enough egg to bind them, a little finely- 
 chopped parsley, and pepper and salt to taste. 
 Take a, bit of the mince in floured hands, roll 
 it in a ball, then flatten it into a cake, dip in 
 egg and seasoned bread-crumbs, and bake in a 
 
 quick oven. Serve with a little good gravy and 
 fried bacon in strips. 
 
 27. Capilotade of Beef oe Mtttton. 
 Cut up in neat slices beef or mutton, flour 
 and pepper and salt them, put aside on a plate ; 
 then chop fine about two table-spoonfuls of 
 piccalilli moistened with two table-spoonfuls of 
 its liquor. Put it in a stewpan with a wine- 
 glassful of ketchup, reduce by boiling to half, 
 then add the meat, a glass of sherry, and a gill 
 of gravy. Boil gently five minutes, and serve. 
 
 28. Casseeole db Riz. 
 Boil the rice (see No. 86), put it into a pan with 
 a good slice of ham and an onion, and stew it 
 over a gentle fire till tender. Have ready a 
 mould lined with very thin slices of bacon. Mix 
 the yolks of three eggs with the rice, and then 
 line the bacon with it about half an inch thick. 
 Put into it a ragout of either beef or mutton 
 or Australian rabbit. Fill up the mould, and 
 cover close with rice. Bake it in the oven an 
 hour, turn it on to a dish, and send it to table 
 with gravy or curry sauce. 
 
 29. Cold Shape. 
 Take two pounds of beef or mutton. Majt 
 one ounce of leaf gelatine, and add to it 
 a tea-cupful of brown gravy or stock. Cut a, 
 hard-boiled egg into round, slices, and line the 
 bottom of a mould with them. Chop up some 
 slices of fat bacon, season with pepper, salt, and 
 a very little allspice ; add these to the other meat 
 with a little more liquid ; place all in a stewpan, 
 and finish cooking. When done pour the whole 
 into the mould and let it get quite cold. Dip 
 in hot water the next day, and it will slide out 
 at once. Garnish with a border of parsley, 
 
 30. CoLLOPS (a la Sauce Eobert). 
 Prepare the coUops as in No. 14, and serve 
 them with this sauce. Chop two onions very 
 fine, fry till of a light brown, add a wine-glass- 
 ful of vinegar and a good pinch of pepper. 
 Boil together five minutes ; then add one table- 
 spoonful of flour, two of cornflour, half a pint 
 of water, and a bit of butter. Stir over the 
 fire for twenty minutes, add one table-spoonful 
 of French mustard, one table-spoonful of 
 Harvey's sauce, one tea-spoonful of anchovy. 
 
 Mix well over the fire, and serve. 
 
 i 
 
 31. FOBCBMBAT. 
 
 Cut a pound of fresh pork into thin slices. 
 Mix two ounces of fine bread-crumbs with a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, 
 and the same of dried and rubbed sage; pour 
 over the meat a tea-cupful of good gravy made 
 from Australian meat. When you have thor- 
 oughly mixed the pork and the seasoning, add 
 one pound of Australian mince ; mix all well to- 
 gether, and use as required. 
 
 32. FoECEMBAT BALLS. 
 
 Flour your hands: take a table-spoonful of 
 forcemeat, roll into balls, fry in Australian fat 
 about seven minutes. Serve on a napkin with 
 a garnish of parsley and a little good thick 
 brown gravy in a boat. 
 
 32o. Feangipanb of Mutton. 
 
 Steam some good mealy potatoes, skin them, 
 mash them till smooth, put them into a sauce- 
 
TIN 
 
 911 
 
 TIN 
 
 pan with three eggs. Stir all together till cool 
 enough to make them up with the hand. Take 
 the marrow from a beef-bone, cut it up as suet, 
 take a quarter of a pound of mutton cut into 
 tiny dice, a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, 
 season well, and pour in two table-spoonfuls 
 of cream ; mix well together. Flour the hands, 
 roll a small bit of the potato mixture into a 
 ball, hollow it with the back of a spoon, fill 
 it with the mince,- close it up, flour well, and 
 when jrou have enough for a small dish fry 
 them till light brown, or bake in quick oven. 
 Serve hot, garnished with parsley. 
 
 33. Fried Meats. 
 
 Either mutton or beef is very good- cut into 
 thick slices, peppered and salted, and well 
 floured. Break an egg, beat it up, and mix with 
 two ounces of bread-crumbs on a flat plate; 
 cover the pieces of meat with it, and fry in 
 boiling fat a nice brown. Lay them in a dish, 
 cut some cold boiled potatoes in thin slices, and 
 fry them after the meat till of a, light brown. 
 Lay them lightly over the meat, and serve. 
 
 34. Fmtadellas. 
 
 Prepare mince No. 48; roll into balls, fry, 
 and place on a flat dish, pour some good white 
 sauce over, serve with a garnish of parsley, 
 and place round some small balls of mashed 
 potato (see No. 32) fried. 
 
 35. Fbitadella, with White Saitce. 
 Fry some well-seasoned and well-floured 
 pieces of mutton, breaking as little as possible. 
 Place them in a flat dish, and cover with a nice 
 white sauce. Put slices of pickled beetroot over, 
 and serve. 
 
 36. Gateatt Austbalien. 
 ■ Take a pie-dish, and butter it; cut hard- 
 boiled eggs into slices, lay them round the sides 
 of the dish and at the bottom. Then put slices 
 of beef and mutton, and ham and bacon, and 
 spread sliced pickles over each layer, with 
 pepper, salt, and nutmeg; pour over all some 
 good rich well-seasoned gravy in which one 
 ounce of gelatine has been dissolved; let it 
 stand till cold, turn out, and garnish with 
 parsley. 
 
 37. GAteau de B<euf. 
 
 Take two pounds at least of beef, one of ham, 
 mince them up fine, and season well. Take an 
 ox foot, and boil till the foot separates. Take 
 it out, and cut off all the meat, and mince and 
 season it. Lay it in a round tin that has been 
 wetted with vinegar, boil up the liquor, and 
 pour it over till quite full and well soaked into 
 the meat. When cold turn out, and it will eat 
 like brawn. 
 
 38. GEBMAif Fbittbbs. 
 
 To three-quarters of a pound of flour add 
 two of butter dissolved in half a pint of beer 
 (this should not be used till tepid), one tea- 
 spoonful of salt, the beaten yolks of two eggs ; 
 mix together, pouring the beer in by degrees. 
 Work well, set aside for an hour or so, and when 
 about to fry add the whites whipped to a froth, 
 and lay mince No. 12 or forcemeat No. 31 in 
 them; cook as omelets, fold them over, and 
 serve four or five on a dish, side by side, with a 
 garnish of parsley. 
 
 39. Gebmak Salad. 
 
 Put in a salad-bowl a pound of beef cut in 
 dice, also one finely-chopped onion, two ounces 
 of red cabbage pickle, a pickled walnut chopped, 
 two gherkins chopped, three ounces of boiled 
 beetroot sliced and cold, two large white let- 
 tuces, a little endive 'cut very fine, a little 
 tarragon, chervil, a leaf or two of dandelion, 
 half a dozen of sorrelj two large potatoes boiled 
 and cut in slices cold, two sliced hard-boiled 
 eggs, three table-spoonfuls of oil, six table- 
 spoonfuls of vinegar, a tea-spoonful of sugar, 
 two tea-spoonfuls of mustard, and a pint of 
 claret or Rhenish wine. Mix well, and decorate 
 the top with a few shapes cut in beetroot. 
 
 40. Hachis ATT POIS. 
 
 Cut some neat slices of mutton, place on a 
 dish, pepper and salt, cover with another dish, 
 and heat thoroughly in the oven. Have ready 
 some peas — those that are rather old will do — 
 let them be well stewed with pepper and salt in 
 Australian broth. When done, mix two table- 
 spoonfuls of corn-flour with them, a table-spoon- 
 ful of any hot sauce, a leaf of mint dried and 
 rubbed, some colouring; stir till thick, pour 
 round the meat, and serve. 
 
 41. Haeicot Beef. 
 Put a pint of haricot beans into sufficient cold 
 water to cover them, and let them soak until 
 the next day. Drain them, and boil them in 
 two quarts of water for a couple ot hours ; then 
 pour the water from them, and place them by 
 the side of the fire, with the lid of the saucepan 
 off, to dry. Shake in with them a lump of 
 butter, and a little pepper and salt. Put a 
 piece of butter the size of an egg into a sauce- 
 pan, let it melt, then fry in it two onions 
 thinly sliced until nicely and lightly browned. 
 Work in very smoothly a table-spoonful of 
 ground rice, a breakfast-cupful of good stock, 
 one scraped carrot, one turnip chopped small, 
 one table-spoonful of Harvey's sauce, a wine- 
 glassful of port wine, and a little pepper and 
 salt. Let all simmer gently for half an hour. 
 Take one pound of nice square pieces of Austra- 
 lian beef, dredge them with flour, and put them 
 into the gravy for a few minutes. Put the hot 
 ^aricot beans round the dish, the beef and gravy 
 m the middle, and serve. Time, forty minutes. 
 Probable cost. Is. 3d., without the wine. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 
 42. Irish Stew. 
 Boil six onions, sliced, in a quart of water 
 with six large potatoes peeled and out in half; 
 pepper and salt pretty freely. When boiled 
 tenderj but not broken, thicken the gravy with 
 flour and brown it; then take small pieces 
 about three inches square and one inch thick 
 of tinned mutton, pepper and salt them, and 
 turn them over and over until well covered in 
 flour; fry in a little fat, place in the centre 
 of the dish, put the potatoes round and a few 
 over the meat, pour over the gravy, and serve. 
 A few light dumplings, made with one tea- 
 spoonful of baking-powder to a pound of flour, 
 may be served with the stew. 
 
 43. Madras CtniKY. 
 Take two large onions, and slice and fry them. 
 Fry in the same pan the meat you mean to 
 
TIN 
 
 912 
 
 TIN 
 
 curry, cut into small dice, first taking out the 
 onions; stir into it a pint of good gravy well 
 seasoned, two table-spoonfuls of curry-powder, 
 and a little salt, and stew gently twenty 
 minutes. When nearly done add the juice of a 
 lemon, and serve up with rice boiled in the usual 
 way. 
 
 44. Meat, with Potato Covbe. 
 Mince some tinned mutton, season with 
 pepper and salt, mix with it a tea-cupful of 
 broth, and put it in a shallow dish. Boil some 
 mealy potatoes, mash them, beat them up with 
 an egg, a bit of butter, and a little milk; 
 spread this mixture smoothly over the meat, and 
 bake till of a golden brown. 
 
 45. Mince and Colcannon. 
 Mix equal proportions of well-boiled, well- 
 seasoned, and well-mashed cabbage and pota- 
 toes. Have ready a dish in which is a border of 
 very hot mince (see No. 72); pile the colcannon 
 in the centre, mark with a three-pronged fork, 
 and serve very hot. 
 
 46. Mince and Spinach. 
 
 Put a border of mince No. 48 round a flat 
 meat - dish, and fill the centre with spinach 
 boiled without water, chopped fine, peppered 
 and salted, and with which two table-spoonfuls 
 of cream have been mixed. Serve very hot. 
 
 47. Mince in Scallops. 
 
 Butter half a dozen scallop-shells, fill them 
 with the mince No. 39, strew them with bread- 
 crumbs thickly. Bake, and serve on a napkin. 
 
 48. Mince on Toast. 
 Prepare the mince as for No. 72, season with 
 a little anchovy, half a tea-spoonful of chutney, 
 a pinch of sage, and a little cream. Stir it in 
 a stewpan over the fire with a dessert-spoonful 
 of cornflour, and put it when quite hot on to 
 buttered toast in small squares of four inches. 
 
 49. Mjnce, with Hard-boiled Eggs. 
 Prepare mince No. 48, place it round a flat 
 dish; boil three eggs ten minutes, shell and 
 halve them. Have ready some nice white 
 sauce, lay the half eggs on the mince at regu- 
 lar distances, and pour over the white sauce, 
 having previously filled the hollow of the dish 
 with a rocky pile of mashed potato. 
 
 50. Mince, with Poached Eogs. 
 Line a flat dish with mince No. 48; poachy 
 half a dozen eggs, place them regularly on the " 
 mince, fry a few strips of bacon, and put them 
 round just before serving. 
 
 51. MmoTON OF Beef. 
 Cut six onions into thin slices, fry in two 
 ounces of fat till brown ; add one table-spoonful 
 of flour, nearly one pint of water, and ketchup ; 
 pepper and salt to season ; stir over the fire to 
 boil ten minutes, and pour it on the beef dished 
 up in slices; strew raspings over it, bake a 
 quarter of an hour, and serve hot. A spoonful 
 of chutney will be found a great improvement. 
 
 52. Mutton and Pickles. 
 Turn out a four-pound tin of Australian 
 mutton. Garnish the dish round with slices 
 pi red beetroot and little heaps of red cabbage 
 pickle. 
 
 63. Mutton and Stewed Cabeots. 
 Scrape half a dozen carrots, boil them until 
 tender, drain and chop them into small pieces. 
 Melt in a saucepan a piece of butter the size of 
 an egg, stir smoothly into it a table-spoonful 
 of flour ; add a cupful of milk, a table-spoonful 
 of boiled and chopped parsley, the carrots, a 
 little grated nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Let all 
 simmer together for a few minutes. Put in one 
 pound of tinned mutton, let it get hot, thou 
 serve in a hot dish. Time, half an hour. Prob- 
 able cost, lOd. Sufficient for three persons. 
 
 54. Mutton, Boiled, and Caper Sauce. 
 Make half a pint of caper sauce. Take the 
 top off a tin of mutton, and place the tin in a 
 saucepan with boiling water, but do not let the 
 water be high enough for any to enter it. Let 
 it become thoroughly heated, then turn it on 
 a dish, and serve it with turnips, carrots, pota- 
 toes, and the sauce. Time, a quarter of an hour 
 to heat the mutton. Probable cost, 28. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 
 55. Mutton Broth. 
 Take the required quantity of jelly from a 
 shape of mutton, add a pint of boiling water, 
 season with pepper and salt; thicken with one 
 tea-spoonful of cornflour, add a pinch of nut- 
 meg, and serve with dried toast. 
 
 56. Mutton, Curried. 
 Boil one pound of pickled pork in a quart of 
 water for three-quarters of an hour with four 
 small onions and a spri? of thyme; then cut 
 into neat slices the pork and two pounds of 
 Australian mutton : lay the whole in a stewpan. 
 Reduce one-half the liquor in which the pork was 
 boiled, skim free from fat, mix with it one 
 tea-spoonful of curry-powder, pulp the onions 
 with a table-spoonful of flour, slice one sharp 
 apple very thin and also one tomato, boil ten 
 minutes, put into the curry, stir gently to mix 
 it well without breaking the meat too much, 
 and serve with a rim of boiled rice. 
 
 57. Mutton, Dry Curried. 
 Fry a sliced onion till brown in tinned mutton 
 fat ; cut Austealian mutton across the grain in- 
 sniall dice, mix it with the fried onion, and fry 
 both till hot through, stirring as little as 
 possible ; sprinkle over lightly half a tea-spoon- 
 ful of curry-powder, salt and pepper to taste, 
 mix well together, pour over two table-spoon- 
 fuls of milk or cream, stir till dry, and serve. 
 
 58. Mutton, Fried, with Suet Pudding. 
 Fry mutton in slices as the beef is done in 
 No. 17. Cut a boiled suet pudding made as 
 the crust in No. 79 into slices, fry lightly — if 
 just boiled and hot it will only require a short 
 time to fry — lay it round the meat, pour gravy 
 over, and serve. 
 
 59. Mutton, Haricot of. 
 Fry pieces of Australian mutton as directed 
 in recipe No. 42, and place them in the centre 
 of a dish. Have ready some boiled carrots, cut 
 them in slices, and fry after the meat; then 
 make a gravy with a little stock, coloured, 
 seasoned, and thickened, which pour over the 
 carrots in the stewpan. Boil up over the fire, 
 and pour round the meat. 
 
TIN 
 
 913 
 
 TIN 
 
 60. Mutton Pie (k I'lrlandaia). 
 Cut nice pieces of mutton, lay them in a pie- 
 dish, and season well. Take some stock, put in 
 it six onions and eight potatoes, put the lid on, 
 and set them to stew gently for half an hour ; 
 lift them into the pie-dish, boil the gravy down 
 to the quantity required to fill the pie. Cover it 
 with potato paste and bake half an hour. Serve 
 with a boat of gravy. 
 
 f 61. Mutton Pies [k la Windsor). 
 
 ■ ■ Cut a, pound of mutton into small pieces, 
 
 h season with chopped mushrooms, parsley, shal- 
 [ lots, pepper and salt, and a little brown gravy, 
 , stir gently together ; raise small pie-shapes with 
 f hot-water crust, fill with the mixture, cover, 
 ! and bake till the crust is done thoroughly. 
 The following will be found a good method for 
 making the crust. Put one pound of flour in 
 t a basin, make a hollow, add half an ounce of 
 salt and half a pint of boiling water in which 
 four ounces of lard, butter, or Australian fat 
 has been melted (pour it on boiling); mix to- 
 gether into a firm paste, kneading well, put it in 
 small lumps on a paste-board to cool. When 
 just nicely warm take and work them into 
 the shape of pork pies — some people find it 
 easier to do this up round a floured pot or 
 wooden mould. ' 
 
 62. Mutton Pie, with Apples. 
 
 Proceed as for No. 60, and add to each layer 
 
 of meat a layer of apples peeled and sliced ; mix 
 
 into the gravy some tomato sauce, cover the 
 
 I dish with a pie-crust, bake half an hour or till 
 
 |, the crust is done, and serve. 
 
 63. Mutton, with Bacon. 
 ' Prepare the meat as for No. 67; and place on 
 
 each piece a nicely-fried piece of bacon. Pour 
 over it the following sauce. First prepare of 
 chopped gherkins, capers, and shallots, one 
 table-spoonful each ; put these in a pan with a, 
 little pepper and one wine-glassful of vinegar ; 
 boil four minutes, then add rather more than 
 half a pint of good stock, a table-spoonful of 
 flour, a little colouring, a piece of butter the 
 size of a nut, and one tea-spoonful of anchovy ; 
 ,boil, and stir well. 
 
 64, Mutton, with Cblbby Sauce. 
 Thoroughly cleanse four heads of celery, slice 
 them very thin, and put them in a stewpan with 
 nutmeg, pepper, and salt to taste; add two 
 ounces of butter and a sliced onion ; cover, and 
 set on the stove to stew very gently without 
 colouring. When tender, add four ounces of 
 flour and one pint of milk; stir again over the 
 fire till the sauce has boiled twenty minutes ; 
 rub through a colander, and pour it over nicely- 
 fried mutton laid in a dish. 
 
 65. Mutton, with French Beans. 
 
 Prepare some mutton as in recipe No. 17 ; lay 
 it in a flat dish. Boil French beans till tender, 
 strain the water off, and stir them in the pan 
 in which the meat has been fried, with one 
 ounce of butter, pepper and salt, and half a 
 pint of thickened brown gravy. Pour them 
 round the meat,, and serve. 
 
 66. Mutton, with Onion Sauce. 
 
 Stew some nicely-cut pieces of well-seasoned 
 mutton in a very little water till quite hot 
 
 3g 
 
 through; put into the same pan two tea-cup- 
 fuls of well-prepared onion sauce; then stir all 
 together, and serve. 
 
 67. Mutton, with Sausages. 
 Prepare the meat as in No. 17. Fry in Aus- 
 tralian fat some sausages cut in short lengths 
 and pricked, place them on the nieat, and serve 
 with brown gravy poured over, 
 
 68. Omelet, with Mince. 
 
 Make an omelet thus. Put half an ounce of 
 butter into the pan, pour gently in two eggs 
 well beaten with a table spoonful of milk, a 
 little chopped parsley, a little chopped shallot, 
 pepper and salt ; do not stir for half a minute, 
 then stir all up together, and in two minutes it 
 will be done. Slide it on to a dish, and fold 
 double, first placing on one half of it a small 
 quantity of mince No. 39 made quite hot. 
 Garnish with parsley, and serve. 
 
 69. Open Mince Takt. , - 
 
 Prepare mince as in No. 48. Make- a short 
 paste, line a flat dish as for an open jam tart, 
 the edge well raised, and fill it with the mince. 
 Cut out of the paste a few leaves or other orna- 
 ments. Bake separately, and when the tart is 
 baked and ready for sending to table, put the 
 leaves on it regularly. 
 
 70. Patties. 
 Prepare mince No, 12. Make some light 
 paste, line patty pans, fill — but don't overload — 
 with mince, wet the edges and cover with paste, 
 brush over with a beaten-up yolk of egg, and 
 bake in a, quick oven till the crust is done; 
 pile up on a hot dish on a napkin, and garnish 
 with small crisp bits of parsley. 
 
 71. Potato Pie. 
 Put into a pie-dish alternate layers of sliced 
 meat and sliced potatoes, pepper and salt (a 
 few button mushrooms are a great addition) ; 
 pour in a tea-cupful of thickened gravy, cover 
 with mashed potatoes as for No. 44; mark the 
 crust over with a three-pronged fork, and bake 
 the pie half an hour in a brisk oven. 
 
 72. Potato Rissoles. 
 Have ready well-seasoned mince mixed with 
 a fourth of its own weight in bread-crumbs, 
 roll this into balls, cover them with mashed 
 potato prepared as in No. 44; flour well, and 
 fry a nice brown colour in Australian fat. 
 
 73. Potato Wall. 
 
 Mash some potatoes as for No. 44; pile them 
 three inches high and two and a lialf inche? 
 thick round the inside of a meat-dish. Smooth 
 the surface of the wall with a knifes and brush 
 over with the yolk of an egg beaten ; fill up 
 the hollow inside with a, well-seasoned mince, 
 and bake half an hour. 
 
 74. Potted Meat. 
 
 Mince very finely the lean part of meat, re- 
 move the skinny parts, and flavour rather highly 
 with pepper, salt, and a little powdered allspice. 
 Pound it in a mortar, adding from time to time 
 a little oiled butter, until it is quite smooth; 
 Press it into pots, and pour a little clarified 
 butter over the meat in each pot. Time to 
 
TIN 
 
 914 
 
 TIN 
 
 prepare, twenty minutes. Allow one pound for 
 five persons. Probable cost, 9d. 
 
 75. Pudding (au Gratin). 
 Mix well together one pound of flour, half a 
 pound of bread-crumbs, one tea-spoonful of 
 baking-powder, one pound of minced Australian 
 meat, a quarter of a pound of chopped ham or 
 bacon, pepper, salt, and nutmeg to season, a 
 quarter of a pound of rolled and rubbed suet, 
 two eggs well beaten, and half a pint of milk. 
 Have ready a buttered pudding-basin, pour in 
 the mixture, cover with a wetted and floured 
 cloth, tie down tightly, and boil one hour and 
 a quarter. Serve with rich brown gravy round it. 
 
 76. PtTDDiNG, Beef and Kidney. 
 
 Prepare a crust as for No. 79; line a greased 
 basin with it, and place in it alternate layers 
 of slices of beef cut an inch thick and well 
 seasoned, and of thinly-sliced kidneys (ox kid- 
 neys do very well for this purpose, they are 
 larger and cheaper), a little finely-minced shal- 
 lot, and a tea-cupful of good gravy. When the 
 dish is full, cover with crust, and boil an hour 
 and a half. Serve some brown gravy with the 
 pudding. 
 
 77. Pudding, Boiled. 
 
 Make a crust as for No. 79; roll out half an 
 inch thick, line a buttered basin, and put in 
 it small pieces of cross-grain-cut mutton, 
 seasoned with pepper and salt, then a layer of 
 thinly-sliced boiled potatoes ; repeat alternately 
 until you have filled the basin, then pour in a 
 mixture made of a tea-cupful of water or stock, 
 a tea-spoonful of Harvey's sauce, a quarter of a 
 tea-spoonful of chutney, and a little colouring. 
 Cover up with crust, tie down with a floured 
 cloth, and boil an hour and a half. Serve with 
 a boat of brown gravy. 
 
 78. Pudding, Forcemeat. 
 Soak a pound of bread in milk; beat i>, up 
 smooth with half a pound of forcemeat, the 
 yolks of two eggs, and seasoning if required. 
 When ready to bake, stir in the whites of the 
 eggs beaten well. Bake in a greased pie-dish 
 half an hour. 
 
 79. Pudding, Roll. 
 Make a crust of one pound of flour, a quarter 
 of a pound of bread-crumbs, half a pound of 
 rolled and rubbed suet, one tea-spoonful of 
 baking-powder, and water sufficient to form not 
 too stiff a paste. Roll it out half an inch thick, 
 and spread over it a layer of minced Austra- 
 lian meat seasoned with pepper and salt, one 
 shallot finely minced, and a quarter of a pound 
 of minced ham or bacon, all mixed thoroughly 
 together. Let this be spread on the paste naif 
 an inch thick, then roll up as for a jam roll, tie 
 in a wetted and floured cloth, and boil one hour 
 and a half ; turn out, garnish with parsley, and 
 serve thick brown gravy over the pudding. 
 
 80. Pudding, Sausage. 
 Prepare a crust as for No. 79; fill with 
 skinned sausages, pour in half a tea-cupful of 
 good gravy, lay on the top some slices of good 
 bacon, fried, cover all with crust; tie, and boil 
 an hour and a half. 
 
 81. RagoOt db Milan. 
 Cut into inch lengths by half an inch square 
 the following, ready cooked, viz., macaroni, 
 beef, ham, tongue, mutton, chicken, game, or 
 veal. Prepare in equal lots as much as is 
 wanted, put all in a stewpan with a little good 
 white sauce, about one ounce of grated cheese, 
 and a little pepper and nutmeg. Toss over the 
 fire till quite hot, and serve. 
 
 82. Raised Pie. 
 Cut into dice equal parts of ham, beef, and 
 bacon, season well, and fill a raised pie-shape. 
 Bake well, and when baked pour into the pie 
 through a funnel a little melted jelly from the 
 Australian meat, well seasoned. Let the pie get 
 cold before cutting it. 
 
 83. Small Pies Raised. 
 Prepare a sufficient quantity of mince No. 31 
 to fill the number of pies you require to make, 
 also some hot-water crust (No. 61); raise small 
 shapes the size of a threepenny veal pie, fill with 
 the mince, cover, and bake till the crust is done. 
 
 84. Rice (Milanese Fashion). 
 Fry the rice (see No. 86) in a pan with butter, 
 season with gcaXeA cheese; add six ounces of 
 - Australian meat cut into dice, half a pint of 
 boiled and picked shrimps (but lobster or crab 
 will do), season, and serve hot with a tea- 
 spoonful of anchovy stirred in. 
 
 85. Rice (Polish Fashion). 
 Cut an onion into very thin slices, and fry in 
 a pan with butter, then add two ounces of 
 cooked ham cut into shreds and six ounces of 
 Australian meat cut into dice. Take the rice as 
 prepared in No. 86, season with a pinch of 
 cayenne pepper and a table-spoonful of grated 
 cheese. Stir all together lightly over the fire, 
 and serve quite hot. 
 
 86. Rice Rissoles. 
 Take a tea-cupful of well-washed rice, leave 
 it in soak twenty minutes in cold water ; strain 
 the water off, and add three tea-cupfuls of cold 
 water to the rice with a little salt; set it on 
 the fire, and by the time it boils the rice will 
 be nearly dressed. Pour the contents of the 
 saucepan into a colander, set it on a saucepan 
 on a stove for ten or fifteen minutes, covering 
 well with a clean cloth — ^this will absorb the 
 steam and leave the rice dry and whole. Take 
 some mince prepared as in No. 72, roll into balls, 
 and cover with the rice mixed with a well-beaten 
 egg; flour, and fry a very light brown. Serve 
 on a napkin with parsley. 
 
 87. Rice (Spanish Fashion). 
 
 Fry the rice (see No. 86) till of a golden colour 
 in oil, using only just enough to do it ; then add 
 either a large table-spoonful of prepared tomato 
 sauce or two large ripe red tomatoes squeezed 
 free from seeds and watery juice through a wire 
 sieve. Season with Spanish sauce, pepper, and 
 grated cheese. Pile up lightly in a hot dish, 
 and garnish round with curry No. 56. 
 
 88. Rice (Turkish Fashion). 
 
 Boil the rice as in recipe No. 86. Fry the 
 rice with butter, cayenne, and saffron powder; 
 
TIN 
 
 915 
 
 TIN 
 
 season with salt, and throw in a handful of 
 cleansed Smyrna raisins. Put this rice as a, 
 border to the curry, prepared as in No. 56. 
 
 89. BissoLES. 
 Prepare the mince as for No. 72, flour the 
 halls, and fry in boiling fat. Serve with good 
 thick gravy. 
 
 90. ElSSOLBTTB. 
 
 Prepare mince as for No. 72, adding a small 
 quantity of chopped suet, a chopped onion, and 
 two eggs ,■- mix well together. Add one tea- 
 cupful of stock, and pour into a greased pie- 
 dish. Bake till crisp outside, turn on to a flat 
 dish, and serve with gravy in a boat. 
 
 91. Sausages. 
 Fill small skins with forcemeat highly sea- 
 soned, prick and fry in Australian fat. Serve 
 on buttered toast dipped in hot broth. 
 
 92. Sausages, Bologna. 
 Take equal quantities of fat and lean bacon, 
 veal, pork, and beef suet, and double the quan- 
 tity of Australian beef; chop fine in a mincing 
 machine, season with pepper and salt and dried 
 sage rubbed. Have ready a well-washed skin, 
 fill and prick, boil an hour, and lay on straw to 
 dry. These sausages may be smoked like hams. 
 
 93. Sausage Bolls. 
 Make some light paste, roll out thin (about a 
 quarter of an inch thick), cut into pieces five 
 inches square, wet the edges, lay a skinned 
 sausage in it just close enough to leave half 
 an inch of paste beyond the sausage; fold over 
 and pinch the edges neatly together, brush o,ver 
 with yolk of egg well beaten, and bake. 
 
 94. Shape with Macaroni. 
 Boil some macaroni tender, cut it up into 
 quarter of an inch lengths, stick them, hole out- 
 wards, thickly all over a well-buttered plain 
 round-topped basin; fill the basin with mince 
 No. 72, cover with a floured cloth, and boil half 
 an hour; turn out, and serve with or without 
 brown gravy. 
 
 95. Sheep's Heart, Stuffed. 
 Prepare some forcemeat as in recipe No. 31 ; 
 stuff the hearts with it — not too full, or the 
 stuffing will burst out. Brush the hearts, over 
 with milk, and roll in flour. Fry them in a 
 little fat and turn them about on all sides till 
 nicely browned ; put them in a stewpan with a 
 pint of well-seasoned stock. Simmer them one 
 hour and a half, or till tender ; drain away the 
 gravy, skim it, and boil it sharply till reduced 
 to one-half, thicken with a little jjour (a glass- 
 ful of claret is an improvement), pour over the 
 hearts, and serve very hot. The hearts are 
 better placed on a layer of Australian mince 
 made very hot and savoury. 
 
 96. Sliced Beef and Cucumber. 
 Lay thin slices of mutton or beef in a meat- 
 dish, out very thin slices of cucumber, and if 
 wished, a. few sliced onions or shallots. Mix 
 equal parts of oil and vinegar; shake them in 
 the bottle. When well mixed put the cucumber 
 into a basin, pour the oil and vinegar over, 
 stir till the cucumber is well covered with it, 
 pepper, and pour it over the beef. 
 
 97. Sliced Beef, with Mayonnaise Sauce. 
 
 Lay trimly-cut slice's of beef on a meat-dish 
 with a little very finely-scraped horse-radish here 
 and there over it. , Spread over it thin slices of 
 cold boiled beetroot. Pour over a mayonnaise 
 sauce made thus. Take a basin, place therein 
 three yolks of eggs, a little pepper and salt, 
 and stir quickly with a wooden spoon. Work 
 in by slow degrees half a pint of salad-oil and 
 half a gill of tarragon vinegar. If well made 
 the sauce should be firm and creamy. This 
 quantity is enough for a very large dish. 
 
 98. Smoking Chimney. 
 This recipe requires a tin shape, with a tin 
 lid fitting to the top, through which a funnel 
 like a cottage chimney rises. Cut beef or 
 mutton in dice, stir over the fire with a table- 
 spoonful of Harvey's sauce, four table-spoonfuls 
 of gravy, a boiled and cut-up onion, and two 
 table-spoonfuls of flour, one ounce of butter, a 
 few cooked mushrooms, and pepper and salt to 
 season. Put this in the lower part of the tin. 
 On the lid place a layer of mashed potato raised 
 like a cottage roof; the steam from below will 
 rise through the funnel, and give the effect of a 
 smoking chimney. 
 
 99. Soup, Julienne. 
 Proceed as for soup with forcemeat balls (see 
 No. 101), but instead of forcemeat balls prepare 
 carrots, turnips, and parsnips, by scraping, peel- 
 ing, and washing them ; cut them in thin slices, 
 and again into thin strips ; boil until tender in 
 the soup, which must first be strained; brown, 
 and thicken with a table-spoonful of cornfiour. 
 In summer, any kind of vegetable may be added 
 — lettuce or French beans, etc. 
 
 100. Soup, Pea. 
 Prepare the stock as for soup with forcemeat 
 balls (see No. 101), and thicken with a quarter of 
 a pound of pea-flour. Cut toasted bread into 
 dice, fry crisply in Australian fat, place it in 
 the tureen, and pour the soup on it. 
 
 101. Soup with Forcemeat Balls. 
 Boil half a pound of the lean of Australian 
 mutton or beef in two quarts' of water for half 
 an hour with two ounces of chopped carrots, 
 one ounce of chopped onions, a little celery, a 
 blade of mace, using pepper and salt to season. 
 Have ready some forcemeat made of equal parts 
 of finely-chopped meat, bacon, bread-crumbs, 
 flour, and an egg to bind the mixture together. 
 Roll into balls an inch in diameter, fry in a 
 little Australian fat; strain the soup; brown it 
 whilst at boiling point; place the balls in a 
 tureen, and pour the soup on them. 
 
 102. Spiced Beef. 
 Turn out a shape of beef of six pounds' 
 weight. To answer properly it should be a 
 firm good shape with plenty oj Jelly round. It 
 must be cut in rounds three inches thick— this 
 will make three rounds. Lay them in a dish 
 three inches deep, cover them with this mix- 
 ture : One ounce of pepper, one ounce of salt, 
 half an ounce of nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce 
 of allspice. Melt all the jelly^, put the rounds 
 back intact into their own tin, one over the 
 other. To accomplish this you must press each 
 
TIN 
 
 916 
 
 TIP 
 
 round down separately with a piece of wood 
 that just fits inside the tin. When it is all 
 firmly pressed in, pour (by degrees to let it goak 
 in) all round the edge the melted jelly well 
 seasoned. Let the shape stand to get cold. If 
 it will not turn out easily, dip it in hot water. 
 
 103. Stuffed Cucumber. 
 Take out the seeds of a encumber, fill it as in 
 No. 107, and boil till tender; peel it carefully, 
 and pour over it this sauce. Chop an onion 
 fine, fry it in fat in a small frying-pan, add a 
 wine-glassful of vinegar, pepper and salt, and 
 a little stock; boil fiv& minutes, and add a little 
 mushroom-ketchup. 
 
 104. TiMBALE DE MaCAEONI. 
 
 Boil some macaroni in water and one ounce of 
 Ijutter ; when it has boiled a few minutes strain 
 ofi' the water, and return the macaroni to the 
 stewpan with half a pint of stock ; boil slowly 
 on a stove till tender. Then add to it soine 
 diced mutton well seasoned, and a little grated 
 cheese ; make all hot together, then set to cool. 
 Butter a mould, well sprinkle with bread- 
 crumbs, and line with common puff-paste; 
 put in the meat and macaroni quite cold, cover 
 with paste, and bake in a rather slow oven. 
 When done, turn it out of the mouW, cut off the 
 top, and pour white sauce over and in the dish. 
 
 105. Toad in the Hole. 
 Pour the batter No. 106 over layers of Aus- 
 tralian mutton and very thin slices of crumb 
 of bread placed alternately in a buttered pie- 
 diah and seasoned. Bake for an hour, and 
 serve with a boat of good gravy. 
 
 106. TOAD-IN-THB-HOLE FORCEMEAT. 
 
 If you haive more of No. 92 than will fill a 
 skin, put a layer in a. greased pie-dish, then 
 a layer of beaten-up bread soaked for an hovir 
 in milk, and so on till the pie-dish is nearly 
 full; pour, over it a batter made of five ounces 
 of flour, four table-spoonfuls of cold water, a 
 small pinch of salt, a pint of new milk, and two 
 eggs well beaten. Bake in a moderately hot 
 oven. 
 
 107. Vegetable Marrow, Stuffed. 
 Take out the seeds of a small cuptard marrow, 
 
 fill the hollow with forcemeat No. 31; tie the 
 marrow in a cloth, boil till tender, peel it care- 
 fully, and serve with good brown gravy. 
 
 108. VrsTAIGRBTTE OF BeEF. 
 
 Cut small thin slices of boiled beef, put them 
 in a salad-bowl with sliced beetroot, quarters 
 of hard-boiled eggs, and cold kidney potatoes; 
 season with pepper and salt, three table-spoon- 
 fuls of salad-oil, two of vinegar, chopped shallot 
 and parsley; mix and pour over. Serve for 
 lunch or made-up dinner. 
 
 109. Vol-au-Vent. 
 Make some very light puff-paste. Line a well- 
 buttered fluted dish or tin, fill with the follow- 
 ing mixture cooked over the fire till more than 
 half done. .Half a pound of minced beef, half 
 a pound of minced ham, two hard-boiled eggs 
 cut up small, and half a pound of any kind of 
 game meat or rabbit cut fiufe. Season highly ; 
 stir over the fire with a gill of good cream and 
 
 one ounce of butter till nearly cooked; then 
 add a little lemon-juice and nutmeg and a tea- 
 spoonful of anchovy. Bake covered with greased 
 paper till half-done. 
 TIPSY BREAD. 
 
 Take a stale roll. Pare off the crust, and cut 
 the crumb into rounds a quarter of an inch thick. 
 Spread a little jam on each side of these, and 
 pile them one upon the other in the centre of 
 a glass dish. Sift powdered sugar thickly over 
 them, and pour upon them as much sherry as 
 they will absorb. Blanch two or three ounces 
 of sweet almonds, cut them into shreds, and 
 stick them all over the surface of the bread. 
 Pour a good custard round them, and set the 
 dish aside until wanted. Tipsy bread should 
 be made two or three hours before it is wanted. 
 
 TIPSY CAKE. 
 
 Take a moulded sponge or savoury cake 
 three or four days old. Cut it quite level at 
 the bottom, so that it will stand firmly on the 
 dish, pierce it in several places with a skewer 
 or knitting needle, and pour over it as much 
 sweet wine mixed with two wine-glassfuls of 
 brandy as it will absorb. Take up the liquor 
 
 TIPSY CAKE. 
 
 that flows into the dish, and pour it over again 
 and again until the cake is quite soaked. 
 Blanch two ounces of sweet almonds, split them 
 into spikes, and stick them all over the cake. 
 Pour round it a rich cold boiled custard, and 
 it will be ready for serving. Sometimes the 
 juice of half a lemon is mixed with the wine and 
 brandy. , Time, two hours to soak the cake. 
 Probable cost, exclusive of the wine and brandy, 
 2s., i,f the custard is made with milk. Suf- 
 ficient for a dish. 
 TIPSY CAKE, IMPERIAL. 
 
 Proceed as for tipsy cake, using pistachios in 
 place of almonds. The fruit for the top decora- 
 tion should be pink and yellow, glace or crystal- 
 lised, and a pink pear should be placed at the 
 top, or an orange and an apricot may be used, 
 Some French plums should be cut up and mixed 
 amongst the n-uit, and about a pound of plums 
 must be made into a compote and put m the 
 dish in place of custard, a little pink custard 
 only being used. In place of the' latter any 
 nice pink sauce may be used, dr tinted whipped 
 cream. Some of the pistachios are to be placed 
 here and there on the custard. A wine of good 
 quality should be used for soaking, with a gill 
 of brandy to each half bottle. . 
 TIPSY CAKE (simple, for Children). 
 
 Take a dozen small stale spongecakes, spread 
 a little jam on each, and arrange them in a 
 
TIV 
 
 917 
 
 tOA 
 
 pile in the centre of a deep glass dish. Pour 
 over them as much raisin wine as they will 
 absorb, and keep putting it over them till they 
 are soaked. Pour round them a pint of nicely- 
 flavoured cold custard, and ornament the dish 
 with dried fruits cut in slices. Probable cost, 3s. 
 Sufficient for a dish. 
 
 TIVERTON PUDDING. 
 
 Beat four eggs till they are very light. Mix 
 smoothly with them three dessert-spoonfuls of 
 fine flour, and add a table-spoonful of sugar, 
 as much grated nutmeg and ginger as will to- 
 gether stand on a sixpence, and the grated rind 
 of half a lemon. Bring a pint of milk to the 
 point' of boiling, pour it upon the mixture, and 
 stir it briskly for a minute or two. Wring a 
 pudding-cloth out of boiling water. Flour it 
 well, and tie the pudding in it. Plunge it at 
 once into boiling water, and let it boil quickly 
 until done enough. Serve with sweet or wine 
 sauce. Time to boil, about an hour. Probable 
 cost, 9d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 TOAD IN THE HOLE. 
 
 Mix a pinch of salt with four large table- 
 spoonfuls of flour. Beat this to a smooth paste 
 with two well-beaten eggs, and add two-thirds 
 of a pint of milk. The milk should be added 
 very gradually, and the pudding should be well 
 beaten so that there are no lumps, and it should 
 be of the consistency of very thick cream. Cut 
 a povmd and a half of beefsteak and one or two 
 sheep's kidneys, or a quarter of a pound of 
 ox kidney, into pieces convenient for serving. 
 Iiay them at the bottom of a hot buttered dish, 
 and pour the batter over them. Bake in a 
 brisk oven. The batter will be better if it is 
 made an hour or two before it is wanted, but 
 it should be beaten up again at the last moment 
 before it is poured over the meat. Mutton 
 chops, sausages, or a stuffed fowl may be sub- 
 stituted for the steak and kidney, or a few 
 mushrooms or oysters may be put with the 
 meat, or even a small quantity of minced shal- 
 lot. The remains of cold meat also may be 
 served in this way, and will be found to be 
 very good, though, of course, not so good as 
 when fresh meat only is used. Some cooks fry 
 the meat lightly, to brown it a little, before 
 putting it into the dish. Time to bake, from 
 one hour and a Half to two hours. Probable 
 cost, if made with steak, 2s. lOd. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 TOAST AND WATER. 
 
 Toast a small slice of stale bread (crusty bread 
 is the best) till it is brightly browned all over 
 without being in the least burnt. Pour over it 
 a quart of boiling water, and let it stand till 
 cold. Filter it, and put it into a decanter. If 
 the toast-water is quickly wanted, just cover 
 the bread with boiling water, and when that is 
 cold, add as much cold filtered water as will 
 fill the jug. Toast-water should be quite cold 
 before it is presented to an invalid, as it is by 
 no means an agreeable beverage when taken 
 lukewarm or hot. Time to soak, half an hour. 
 
 TOAST, BUTTERED. 
 
 Toast which is to be buttered should be cut 
 from a loaf one or two days old, in slices about 
 the third of an inch thick. Cue off the crust. 
 
 and toast the bread before a clear bright fire 
 When it is equally and lightly coloured on one 
 side, turn it to do the other. Place little pieces of 
 butter here and there upon it, put it before 
 the fire for a minute or two till the butter is 
 soft, then spread it upon the toast, taking care 
 not to press heavily upon the bread, or the 
 toast will be heavy. Cut each slice separately 
 into strips an inch and a half broad, and pile 
 these on a hot dish. If one or two slices are cut 
 through together; the butter will sink from the 
 upper piece to the lower. Some cooks hold the 
 toasted bread over a bowl of boiling water for 
 a minute before Autterjng it- This is to soften 
 it, that it may take the butter more readily. 
 Buttered toast should be prepared at the last 
 moment, and served very hot. 
 
 TOAST, BUTTERED, AND CHEESE. 
 
 Crush half a pound of old Cheshire cheese in 
 a mortar, and pound with it » piece of butter 
 the size of a walnut, the yolk of a hard-boiled 
 egg, and a small tea-spoonful of mustard. Take 
 a slice of bread half an inch thick, cut off the 
 crust, and toast it on both sides. Spread the 
 cheese-paste upon it, lay it upon a dish, and put 
 it in a Dutch oven before a clear fire until the 
 paste is melted. Serve very hot. Time to melt 
 the cheese, about three or four minutes. Prob- 
 able cost, Is. Sufficient for two persons. 
 
 TOAST CREOLE. 
 
 Cut some stale bread into rather thick slices, 
 trimming off all crust; or cut into rounds with 
 a biscuit cutter. For every four slices allow 
 one egg, one cupful of milk, and a pinch of 
 salt. Lay the bread on a plate, and baste each 
 piece with the raw custard, adding more from 
 time to time until it has taken up all the liquid 
 it will absorb. 
 
 Then melt a little butter -in a pan, and 
 when hot carefully lay in the prepared bread, 
 using a cake turner, so that it may not be 
 broken. 
 
 Fry over a moderate fire until golden brown, 
 then turn and brown on the other side. 
 
 Serve as soon as done, with butter and a 
 bowl of powdered sugar in which has been 
 mixed a little powdered cinnamon. 
 
 Probable cost of each piece of toast, about 
 2d. 
 
 TOAST, DRY. 
 
 Be careful to have a clear bright fire, and see 
 that the bars are quite clean. Cut as many 
 slices as may be required from a loaf of bread 
 two days old. These slices should be very thin 
 — less than a qaiarter of an inch thick. Cut off 
 the crust, and warm the bread on both sides 
 for one minute before toasting it; then put it 
 on the toasting-fork, hold it a little distance 
 from the fire, move it about till it is lightly 
 and equally toasted, and when it is done upon 
 one side turn it to do the other. 
 
 Great care is necessary, as dry toast should 
 be coloured gradually; its perfection consists 
 in its being crisp and dry without being 
 very dark and brown or in the least burnt. 
 
 As with Creole toast (see above) dry toast 
 should be made a few minutes only before it is 
 wanted, as it soon becomes heavy. It should 
 never be placed flat on a dish or table, but be 
 
TOA 
 
 918 
 
 TOM 
 
 put at once in the toast-rack, or, if this is not 
 at hand, two slices should be made to lean one 
 against the other. 
 
 TOAST, FOR SOUP. 
 
 Cut a slice of thin bread, toast it lightly on 
 both sides, and cut it into dice not larger than 
 a quarter of an inch square. Throw these into 
 a frying-pan with hot fat, and turn them about 
 till they are quite crisp. Lift them out with an 
 egg-slice, and put them on an inverted sieve 
 before the iire for a minute or two to drain 
 them froin the fat. Serve them on a separate 
 dish. Time to fry the dice, about a minute. 
 TOAST, SAVOURY. 
 
 Scale and bone two or three anchovies without 
 washing them. Beat them to a paste; and add 
 a pinch of cayenne or a little dry mustard and 
 a small lump of butter. Toast a slice of brown 
 bread, and butter it well. Spread the savoury 
 paste upon it, and push it into the oven, or 
 let it stand before the &te for a minute or two 
 till it is very hot. Serve immediately. If 
 Uked, the yolk of an egg and a table-spoonful 
 of cream may be mixed with the pounded an- 
 chovies, and the paste may be stirred over the 
 fire for a short time till it is very hot without 
 boiling. * 
 
 TOASTS, HAMBURG. 
 
 When a small quantity only of any savoury 
 fricassee is left, it may be warmed up as follows. 
 Mince &e meat finely, and put with it any 
 seasoning that may be required. Mix it with 
 the sauce, and stir it over a gentle fire until 
 it is thick. Draw it away from the, fire for a 
 minute, and mix with it the yolk of an egg well 
 beaten. Stir it over the fire again till it is 
 hot without letting it boil. Turn it upon a 
 dish, and let it get cold. Take one or two slices 
 of bread a quarter of an inch thick. Toast them 
 on both sides, and out them into three-cornered 
 pieces. Spread the savoury mince thickly upon 
 them, and cover the surface with a hariboiled 
 egg clopped small. Squeeze the juice of a. 
 lemon over them, and put them in a brisk oven 
 for a minute or two till they are quite hot. 
 Arrange them neatly on a dish, and serve them 
 immediately garnished with parsley. Time, 
 altogether, about one hour. Probable cost, 4d., 
 exclusive of the fricassee. 
 
 TOAST, TO PREPARE, FOR ROAST GAME. 
 
 Toast a slice of bread the third of an inch 
 thick till it is brightly browned on both sides. 
 Cut off the crust, hold the toast over a bowl of 
 boiling water for a minute to imbibe the steam, 
 and butter it well. Soak it in the dripping in 
 the pan under the birds, and when these are 
 ready, serve them upon it. 
 TODDY, AMERICAN. 
 
 Take the thin rind of two large lemons, and 
 put it in a bowl with half a pound of sifted 
 sugar and a pint of cold water, and let it soak 
 until the liquor is pleasantly flavoured. Take 
 out the rind, and in its place put a small 
 quantity of fruit — three or four large- ripe straw- 
 berries, a slice of pineapple, or a mellow peach 
 peeled and sliced, will answer excellently. Ten 
 minutes before the toddy is to be served add to 
 the syrup a pint of best rum and a quarter of 
 a pound of ice. 
 
 TOFFEE. 
 
 Melt three ounces of fresh butter in a small 
 brass saucepan over a clear, bright fire. As 
 soon as it is dissolved, stir into it one pound 
 of good brown sugar, and keep stirring until it 
 is done enough. In order to ascertain when this 
 point is reached, let a cup of cold water be 
 placed close at hand, and keep dropping a little 
 of the toffee into it. When the toffee thus 
 dropped hardens immediately, and breaks be- 
 tween the teeth without sticking to them, it is 
 done, and must be poured out at once or it will 
 burn. The flavour of this toffee may be 
 pleasantly varied by stirring into it a tea-spoon- 
 ful of slightly moistened powdered ginger, or 
 the grated rind of a small lemon.. Pour the 
 toffee upon a buttered dish, and put it in a 
 cool place to set. Time to boil, fifteen to 
 twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, this quan- 
 tity, 8d. 
 TOFFEE, ALMOND. 
 
 Melt five ounces of fresh butter in a small 
 brass saucepan over a clear fire, and when it is 
 dissolved stir into it a pound of good brown 
 sugar, and let the mixture boil for a quarter of 
 an hour. Have ready prepared two ounces of 
 sweet almonds, blanched. Halved, and dried. 
 Throw them into the toffee, and let it boil after 
 they are added until it hardens instantly when 
 dropped into cold,^water, and breaks between the 
 teeth without sticking to them. When this 
 point is reached, turn the toffee out imme- 
 diately or it will burn. Pour it upon buttered 
 dishes. Or, blanch an ounce of sweet almonds, 
 divide them into strips, and dry them thoroughly 
 in a cool oven or before the fire. Boil a pound 
 of sugar in half a pint of water till it is dis- 
 solved, then throw in an ounce of butter. Boil 
 the toffee until it hardens instantly when 
 dropped into cold water. Pour it on a but- 
 tered dish or oiled slab, and add the sliced 
 almonds after the toffee is poured upon the dish. 
 When nearly cold, mark it out in squares with 
 the back of a knife. Time, fifteen to thirty 
 minutes. 
 TOMATO. 
 
 The tomato, or love apple, is a fruit much 
 valued in cookery for sauces, soups, gravies, and 
 ketchup. It is about the size of a potato. It 
 comes into season in April, and continues until 
 frost sets in. It possesses a very peculiar 
 flavour, and when Uked at all is generally 
 very highly esteemed. When fresh fruit is not 
 in season, tinned tomatoes may be used. The 
 large tomatoes are the best for stewing and for 
 sauces, and the small ones for pickling. 
 TOMATO AND CHEESE SOUFFLE. 
 
 Take half a pint of fresh tomato pulp, 
 two ounces of good cheese cut into dice, two 
 ounces of butter, one and a half ounces of 
 boiled macaroni in small pieces, one and a half 
 ounces of bread-crumbs, and a good seasoning 
 of salt, pepper, mustard, and cayenne. Put all 
 into a saucepan, mix well, and stir until the 
 mixture boils. Let it cool, then beat in the 
 yolks of two eggs, and the whites of three eggs 
 previously beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in a 
 dish or tin that has been buttered and dredged 
 with brown bread-crumbs. Serve very hot, and 
 strew with grdted cheese. Probable cost, Is. 
 
TOM 
 
 919 
 
 TOM 
 
 TOMATO (au Gratin). 
 
 Cut half a dozen tomatoes into halves, remove 
 the pips, and fill the insides with a mixture of 
 bread-crumbs, pepper, and salt, in due propor- 
 tions. Place a small piece of btitter on each 
 half tomato, and then lay them close together 
 in a well-buttered tin. Bake in a slow oven 
 for about half an hour, then serve. They may 
 be eaten hot or cold. 
 
 TOMATO BEEF. 
 
 Take three pounds of lean beef, cut into large 
 steaks ; lay these in the stewpan with seven or 
 eight nice ripe tomatoes, a spoonful of water, 
 and a finely-chopped onion. Stew slowly for 
 one hour and a half. Add salt, pepper, cloves, 
 and just before dishing, a piece of butter as 
 large as an egg, and half a gill of ketchup. 
 
 TOMATO CHUTNEY. 
 
 Take four pounds of tomatoes, one pound of 
 apples, one ounce of crushed mustard-seed, half 
 au ounce of grated ginger, half a dozen small 
 onions, four ounces of salt, a small tea-spoonful 
 of cayenne, » pint and a quarter of the best 
 malt vinegar, and one pound of soft moist sugar. 
 The tomatoes should be sound and not over- 
 ripe. Break them into a preserving-pan, and 
 add the apples in quarters, but not peeled or 
 cored. Chop the onions, and add them, with 
 all the other ingredients except the sugar, 
 which is best put in when the mixture has 
 begun to soften a little. The whole must be\ 
 boiled slowly to a. complete pulp that can be 
 rubbed easily through a coarse hair sieve. It 
 should be stirred well, and left for a day before 
 bottling. 
 
 Probable cost, 3s. 
 
 TOMATO CHUTNEY (another recipe). 
 
 Take twenty-four small ripe tomatoes, one 
 quart of vinegar, four small onions, one ounce 
 of pepper, half an ounce of cloves, half an ounce 
 of celery seed, two table-spoonfuls of white 
 mustard seed and common salt. Prick each 
 tomato closely, then lay them in an earthen 
 jar, sprinkling salt between the layers. Ijet 
 them stand thus covered for three days, drain- 
 ing away the juice into another covered jar. 
 Mince the onions, then add them, with the 
 other ingredients, to the vinegar, and bring 
 to the boil. Let them simmer till the onions 
 are tender. Wash and dry the tomatoes, put 
 them into a jar, pour over them the juice, the 
 vinegar, and the other ingredients when cold, 
 then cover and tie down closely. 
 
 Cost variable, according to the price of the 
 tomatoes. 
 
 TOMATO DUMPLINGS, OR PUDDINGS. 
 
 Take some small pudding basins that will 
 hold one tomato each, and line them with 
 thinly-rolled suet or other crust, as the dump- 
 lings can be steamed, or boiled, or baked; for 
 the latter a short crust should be used. The 
 fruit should be skimmed, and seasoned with 
 SEtlt and pepper. No gravy or water should be 
 put in. 
 
 Put on a top crust, and cook for an hour or 
 more. 
 
 Cups ma,y be used instead of pudding basins. 
 
 Probable cost, 2d. to 2^d. each. 
 
 TOMATO FORCEMEAT. 
 
 Pour a little boiling fish stock over half a pint 
 of bread-crumbs, pour off any superfluous mois- 
 ture, and add a beaten egg and a table-spoonful 
 of brown sauce. Fry a small onion and a large 
 tomato, both sliced, in two ounces of butter or 
 clarified fat ; add them to the rest, with season- 
 ing to taste. Then put in five or six ounces of 
 raw white fish, cut up small and rubbed through 
 a wire sieve. Blend well. This is very suitable 
 for a baked fish with which tomato sauce would 
 be served. It may also be made into balls for 
 fish stews, or the balls may be egged and bread- 
 crumbed and fried, and used for garnishing 
 fish dishes. Probable cost, about 8d. or 9d. 
 
 TOMATO KETCHUP. 
 
 A small glassful of tomato ketchup stirred 
 into half a pint of melted butter or gravy may 
 be used instead of tomato sauce. Take two 
 quarts of small ripe tomatoes, cut them into 
 slices, lay them in a deep pan, and sprinkle 
 amongst them^ four ounces of salt. Let them 
 lie for twenty-four hours. Pour the juice from 
 them, and boil it with four ounces of shallots 
 and a dozen and a half small capsicums. Press 
 the tomatoes through a sieve, stir the pulp 
 into the juice, and let it boil half an hour 
 longer. Pour the ketchup whilst it is warm 
 into warm bottles. Cork securely, and seal the 
 corks. Time, two days. 
 
 TOMATO KETCHUP (another way). 
 
 Take any quantity of very ripe tomatoes, and 
 cut them into slices. Put a layer into a deep 
 jar, sprinkle a little salt over it, add another 
 layer and a little more salt, and repeat this 
 until the toinatoes are all used. The quantity 
 of salt required will be about two ounces of 
 salt for a quart of tomatoes. Put the jar in a 
 warm place, and stir the fruit every now and 
 then for three days. At the end of that time 
 press the tomatoes through a sieve. Measure 
 the juice, and boil it, with a quarter of an ounce 
 of black pepper, eight cloves, a blade of mace, 
 a tea-spoonful of powdered ginger, and half an 
 ounce of allspice to each quart of juice. Pour 
 it whilst warm into warm bottles, and when it 
 is quite cold cork up securely. At the end of 
 three months boil it again, adding fresh spice 
 according to taste. Cork it up again, and store 
 for use. Time to boil the juice with the spice, 
 a quarter of an hour. 
 
 TOMATO KETCHUP (another way). 
 
 Boil one bushel of good tomatoes until soft, 
 then squeeze through a fine wire sieve. Add 
 half a gallon of vinegar, a few ounces of salt, 
 two ounces of cloves, a quarter of a pound of 
 allspice, an ounce and a half of cayenne pepper, 
 three table-spoonfuls of black pepper, and five 
 heads of garlic skinned and separated. Mix 
 and boil three hours or until reduced one-half, 
 and bottle without straining. The garlic, if 
 objected to, may be omitted. 
 TOMATO MARMALADE. 
 
 Weigh the fruit, and take as many ounces of 
 sugar as there are pounds of tomatoes. Put 
 this sugar into a preserving-pan, place it upon 
 a gentle fire, and stir until it melts and acquires 
 a light-brown colour. Throw into it three or 
 four onions finely minced, allowing one small 
 
TOM 
 
 920 
 
 TOM 
 
 onion for each pound of tomatoes. When these 
 are slightly browned, put into the pan the toma- 
 toes cut into quarters, and add a alight season- 
 ing of pepper, salt, powdered mace, and grated 
 nutmeg. Boil all" together till the tomatoes 
 are reduced to pulp, strain the juice through 
 a sieve, and boil it quickly until it will jeUy 
 when a small portion is poured upon a plate. 
 Put the marmalade into jars, and cover with 
 double layers of very thick paper. Time, two 
 and a half to three hours. 
 
 TOMATO OMELET. 
 
 Take four ripe tomatoes, peel them, and chop 
 them small. Beat a large table-spoonful of flour 
 to a smooth paste with a little milk. Add six 
 well-beaten eggs, a little pepper and salt, and 
 the tomatoes. Fry the omelet in the usual way, 
 and fold it over if liked, but do not turn it. 
 Time to fry, five or six minutes. Probable cost, 
 about lOd. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 rOMATO PUR^E (for Roast Beef, Mutton, Pork, etc.). 
 Take a dozen ripe tomatoes, slice off the 
 stalks and the part that adheres to them, 
 squeeze out the pips, break the fruit into pieces, 
 and put them into a stewpan with three or four 
 spoonfuls of good brown gravy and a little salt 
 and cayenne. Let them boil; put with them 
 an onion, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, 
 and a bay-leaf, and simmer them very gently 
 until they are quite soft. Take out the herbs, 
 and rub the tomatoes through a fine hair sieve. 
 Dissolve an ounce of butter in a saucepan, and 
 mix a tea-spoonful of flour smoothly with it. 
 Add a spoonful or two of gravy and the tomato 
 pulp, and stir the puree over the fire for five or 
 six minutes. Serve very hot. Time to stew the 
 tomatoes, about an hour. Probable cost, toma- 
 toes, 2d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. 
 
 TOMATO PUR£e (for Veal Cutlets, Calf's Head, etc.). 
 
 Simmer the tomatoes in good gravy till soft, 
 as in the last recipe. Take out the herbs, and 
 rub them through a sieve. Mix an ounce of 
 clarified butter with a tea-spoonful of flour to 
 a smooth paste; add gradually two or three 
 spoonfuls of thick cream and the tomato pulp. 
 Stir the puree over the fire for a few minutes, 
 and serve very hot. Time to stew the tomatoes, 
 about an hour. Probable cost, tomatoes, 2d. 
 to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. 
 TOMATO SALAD. 
 
 Take some ripe red English tomatoes ; slice 
 or quarter them ; sprinkle a little Lucca oil over 
 them, and about a third as much vinegar; a 
 few drops of onion or tarragon vinegar' may be 
 added ; finish off with salt and pepper — mig- 
 nonette pepper for preference. A pinch of white 
 sugar is an improvement. Chopped spring 
 onions may be used if there is no onion vinegar 
 at hand. Probable cost of tomatoes, 4d. to 8d. 
 per pound. 
 
 TOMATO SAUCE FOR PRESENT USE (to serve 
 with Cutlets, Roast Meats, etc). 
 Take a dozen ripe tomatoes, cut them in halves, 
 and press the seeds and the watery part from 
 them. Put them in a stewpan with a quarter 
 of a pint of gravy or strong broth and a quarter 
 of a salt-spoonful of cayenne. Let them stew 
 
 softly until they are tender. Press them 
 through a fine sieve, and put the pulp back into 
 the stewpan with half a i^a-spoonful of salt. 
 Let it simmer gently for a. few minutes, and 
 serve very hot. If liked, a blade of mace, two 
 or three shallots, and two cloves may be stewed 
 with the tomatoes, but most lovers of tomatoes 
 prefer that they should retain their distinctive 
 character, and consider that tomato sauce is 
 V spoilt if it is flavoured with other ingredients. 
 Tomatoes vary so much in size and juicinese 
 that it is difficult to give the exact quantity of 
 liquor required for them. It should be remem- 
 bered, however, that the sauce should b'e of the 
 consistency of thick cream, and that if it is too 
 thick a little more gravy should be added : if 
 too thin, it should be boiled down very quickly 
 for a short time. Time to simmer the tomatoes, 
 about an hour. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. per 
 pound. Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 TOMATO SAUCE (another way). 
 
 Melt in a stewpan one or two dozen ripe 
 tomatoes (before putting them into the stew- 
 pan, cut them in two, and squeeze the juice and 
 seeds out). Then add two shallots, one onion, 
 with a few bits of ham, a clove, a little thyme, 
 a bay-leaf, a few leaves of mace, and when 
 tender rub them through a tamis. Mix a few 
 spoonfuls of good Espagnole sauce and a little 
 salt and pepper with this puree. Boil it for 
 twenty minutes, and serve. 
 
 TOMATO SAUCE (another way). 
 
 When gravy or stock is not at hand, toma- 
 toes may be sliced and stewed with a little 
 butter, cayenne, and salt. If cooked in this, 
 way, they should be pulped through a sieve 
 just as if they had been simmered in gravy, and 
 a little vinegar may be added to them if liked. 
 
 TOMATO SAUCE (another way). 
 
 Halve a dozen ripe tomatoes, squeeze out the 
 seeds, and put the fruit into a jar or saucepan 
 with a dessert-spoonful of lean ham cut into 
 dice, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a large pinch 
 of cayenne, a quarter of a pint of good gravy, or 
 two or three ounces of butter, and either three 
 sliced shallots or a dozen button mushrooms 
 cleaned and cut into small pieces. Stir them 
 over a gentle fire until they are quite soft, then 
 press them through a sieve, add a little salt, 
 and put the sauce again upon the fire till it is 
 very hot. Serve it in a tureen. Time to sim- 
 mer the tomatoes, about an hour. Probable 
 cost, tomatoes, 2d. to 4d. per pound. Sufficient 
 for six or eight persons. 
 
 TOMATO SAUCE, MOCK. 
 
 Put a pint of water, a dessert-spoonful of 
 vinegar, a good pinch of salt, and a large lump 
 of sugar into a saucepan, and let it boil. Throw 
 into it the red part only of four large carrots, 
 and let it boil until quite soft. Take it 
 up with an egg-slicer, and rub it through a 
 sieve. Put the pulp into a preserving-pan with 
 three table-spoonfuls of ale, a quarter of a pint 
 of vinegar, a sour apple, half a dozen shallots 
 pared and minced finely, a pinch of salt and 
 cayenne, and as much mustard and powdered 
 mace as will lie on a sixpence. Stir this mix- 
 ture over a gentle fire for nearly half an hour. 
 Let it get cold, put it into bottles, and cork 
 
TOM 
 
 921 
 
 TOM 
 
 down securely. It will keep for three or four 
 ■weeks. Or, boil a dozen sour apples,j)ared and 
 cored, till tender. Rub them through a sieve, 
 colour the pulp with turmeric, stir a little 
 vinegar into it to give it an acid taste, and 
 flavour with salt and cayenne. 
 
 TOMATO SOUP. 
 
 Slice two large onions into a saucepan, with 
 two turnips, two carrots, and five or six outer 
 sticks of celery. Put with these four ounces of 
 lean ham cut into dice, and two ounces of fresh 
 butter, and steam them over a gentle fire for 
 half an hour. Pour over them two quarts of 
 stock or liq^uor in which meat has been boiled, 
 and add six or eight ripe tomatoes. Let all 
 - simmer gently together for a couple of hours. 
 Eub the vegetables through a sieve, and boil 
 them again with the liquor for a few minutes, 
 add pepper and salt to taste, and serve very 
 hot. Send bread toasted and cut into dice to 
 table on a separate dish. A little tomato pulp 
 may be added to any vegetable soup when the 
 flavour is liked. Time, three to four hours. 
 Probable cost, 6d. to lOd. per pint. Sufficient 
 for eight or ten persons. 
 
 TOMATO STORE SAUCE. 
 
 Take a dozen ripe tomatoes, put them in an 
 earthen jar, and set them in a cool oven until 
 they are quite soft. Take off the skins and 
 stalks, mix with the tomatoes the liquor that 
 flowed from them when baked, and add a dessert- 
 spoonful of salt, a dessert-spoo:tfful of powdered 
 ginger, a pinch of cayenne, and tw^o table-spoon- 
 fuls of vinegar. Mix the ingredients thoroughly, 
 put the sauce into dry wide-mouthed bottles, and 
 store in a cool dry place. Examine and taste 
 it at the end of " week or a fortnight, and if it 
 does not seem as if it would keep, boil it again 
 with a little more cayenne and ginger. This 
 sauce will keep for a long time. It will not be 
 properly flavoured till ten days or a fortnight 
 after it is made, though it may be used at once. 
 Some cooks add a. head of garlic to the other 
 ingredients, but this is not generally liked. 
 Time, four to five hours. 
 
 TOMATO STORE SAUCE (another way). 
 
 Put as many tomatoes as are agreeable into 
 an earthen jar, set them in a slow oven, and let 
 them bake gently until quite soft. Hub them 
 through a fine sieve, and weigh the pulp. With 
 every pound put an ounce of white pepper, an 
 ounce of salt, half an ounce of cayenne, half an 
 ounce of minced shallot or onion, and a quart of 
 strong vinegar. Boil the whole till it is as 
 thick as cream, let it get cool, put it into dry 
 wide-mouthed bottles, cork closely, and store 
 in a cool dry place. Half an ounce of garlic 
 may be added or not to the other ingredients. 
 Time, about four to five hours. Probable cost, 
 tomatoes, 2d. to 6d. per pound. 
 
 TOMATO STORE SAUCE (another way). 
 
 Take two dozen tomatoes, and bake them in 
 a slow oven till quite soft. Eub them through 
 a sieve, and weigh them. Put a pint of vine- 
 gar into a saucepan with one ounce of minced 
 shallots, halfi an ounce of salt, half an ounce of 
 white pepper, and six capsicums — a small quan- 
 tity of cayenne may be substituted for these. 
 let the vinegar boil for eight or ten minutes — 
 
 it will be sufficient for two pounds of pulp. 
 Mix the vinegar and the tomatoes together, and 
 add the juice that flowed from the fruit in 
 baking and the strained juice of a small lemon 
 Put the mixture again into the saucepan, and 
 stir it over a gentle fire till it is as thick as 
 cream. Turn it out, and let it get cold. Put 
 it into dry wide-mouthed bottles, and cork these 
 down securely. Half an ounce of bruised garlic 
 may be added or not. Time, four to five hours. 
 
 TOMATO STORE SAUCE (another way). 
 
 Gather the tomatoes on a dry day, when they 
 are -quite ripe and red. Lay them in an 
 earthen jar, put them into a cool oven, and 
 let them remain all night, or until they are 
 quite soft without being broken. Skin them, 
 and rub them through a sieve. With every 
 pint of pulp put half an .ounce of bruised 
 shallots, a quarter of an ounce of bruised gar- 
 lic, a little salt, and half a pint of chilli vinegar, 
 or half a pint of white-wine vinegar, and a little 
 cayenne. Boil these ingredients together until 
 the onions are soft. Eub the whole again 
 through a sieve, add. the juice of a lemon, and 
 boil it again for ten minutes, stirring all the 
 time. Put it into small dry bottles, and cork 
 and seal these securely. The juice which flows 
 from the fruit in baking must be added to the 
 sauce. Time, ten to twelve hours. Probable 
 cost, tomatoes, 2d. to 6d. per pound. 
 
 TOMATO STORE SAUCE, EXCELLENT. 
 
 Cut four pounds of tomatoes into slices, and 
 put them into a saucepan with two large onions 
 sliced, one pound of Demerara sugar, a quarter 
 of a pound of salt, two ounces of peppercorns, 
 half a tea-spoonful of cayenne, half an ounce 
 of cloves, and six ounces of allspice. Pour a 
 pint of vinegar over the ingredients, and let 
 them boil gently for two hours. Stir frequently 
 to keep them from burning. Eub them tlirougli 
 a fine sieve, and as soon as the pulp is cold 
 bottle it securely. Store in a cool dry place. 
 Time, two hours. 
 
 TOMATO TOAST. 
 
 Take four table-spoonfuls of tomato puree, 
 and simmer for a few minutes with a tea-spoon- 
 ful of French mustard, a little salt, a sprinkling 
 of white sugar, a dash of vinegar, and salt and 
 pepper to taste. An onion may be put in and 
 removed before serving. Add a table-spoonful 
 of chopped ham and the same of grated Par- 
 mesan cheese, and stir until hot throua:h. Last 
 of all add a beaten egg, and beat it well into the 
 mixture. Serve on toast or fried bread. 
 
 TOMATOES AND MACARONL 
 
 Take half a pound of macaroni, wash it, and 
 boil it till tender. Take six or more ripe toma- 
 toes, cut off the stalks, squeeze out the pips, and 
 place the fruit in a buttered tin in the oven. 
 It is well to baste them once or twice with the 
 butter and the juice that will come from them. 
 Put the macaroni, when tender and well., 
 drained, into a vegetable dish. Pour the butter 
 and juice from the tin over the macaroni, add 
 pepper and salt, and toss it lightly together. 
 Place the whole tomatoes on the top of the 
 macaroni, round the edge, at equal distances. 
 Sprinkle a little chopped parsley on top, and 
 
TOM 
 
 922 
 
 TOM 
 
 TOMATOES AND MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Cut sume large tomatoes into halves, scoop 
 out some of the pulp, and mix it with ten or 
 twelve chopped button mushrooms, two ounces 
 of bread-crumbs, pepper and salt to taste, and 
 an ounce of butter. Fill the tomatoes with this 
 mixture, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 TOMATOES AND ONIONS, BAKED. 
 
 Take a pound of tomatoes, wipe them, cut 
 them in halves, and bake them (see Tomatoes, 
 Baked). Bake or fry the same weight of 
 Spanish onions, and chop them up. Put the 
 tomatoes, cut side up, on a dish for serving; 
 cover each half with a thin slice of cheese, and 
 put some onions on the top ; season nicely, then 
 spread over some bread-crumbs (browned in the 
 oven). Grate a little cheese over, and serve hot. 
 Probable cost, lOd. to Is. 
 
 TOMATOES AND RICE. 
 
 Take six ripe tomatoes, free them from pips, 
 and put them in a tin in the oven with a little 
 butter to bake; baste them occasionally with 
 a little butter. In the meantime boil half a 
 pound of rice in a little stock or water, only 
 sufficient for the rice to absorb the liquor. 
 When this is done, pour on to the rice all the 
 liquid and butter from the tin in whicli the 
 tomatoes were cooked, stir it well, and add some 
 pepper and salt. Put this on a dish, and serve 
 the tomatoes on the rice with the red, unbroken 
 side uppermost. 
 
 TOMATOES (au Gratin). 
 
 Slice some tomatoes, lay them in a flat dish, 
 buttered and covered with bread-crumbs, then 
 strew some chopped mushrooms over, with a, 
 little minced ham. If the flavour of onions, 
 is liked, a small chopped onion may be added. 
 Moisten with a little brown sauce, cover with 
 more crumbs, add a few bits of butter, and 
 bake in a quick oven to a nice brown. 
 TOMATOES (au Gratin), another way. 
 
 Dissolve an ounce of fresh butter in a stew- 
 pan, and mix half an ounce of flour smoothly 
 with it. Stir it with a wooden spoon over a 
 gentle fire for two minutes, then add very 
 gradually three-quarters of a pint of good stock. 
 Let it boil gently till it is reduced to rather 
 less than half a pint. Put in with it a table- 
 spoonful of chopped onion, three table-spoonfuls 
 of finely-shredded parsley; and a little pepper 
 and salt, and boil it quickly for ten minutes. 
 Take eight or ten large ripe tomatoes. Slice 
 off the stalks and the part that adheres to them, 
 and make in the top a round hole the size of o, 
 shilling. Scoop out the seeds through this, and 
 fill their place with the prepared sauce. Set 
 the fruit carefully in a baking-tin, the stalk end- 
 uppermost, with twp ounces of butter, and 
 sprinkle bread-crumbs lightly over them. Put 
 them in a brisk oven, and bake them for ten 
 minutes. Serve very hot. Time to make the 
 stuffing, about one hour. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 TOMATOES, BAKED. 
 
 Slice the stalks, with the green part that 
 adheres to them, from six or eight ripe tomatoes. 
 Season the fruit with pepper and salt, and 
 sprinkle bread-crumbs thickly over. Divide 
 about two ounces of fresh butter into little 
 
 pieces, and place these here and there upon them. 
 Bake in a/ moderate oven. Serve on a hot dish 
 as an accompaniment to roast meat of all kinds. 
 If liked, the tomatoes may be cut into slices, or 
 into halves, instead of being baked whole, and 
 thejr will not theii require so much time for 
 ba,king. Time to bake, from twenty to thirty 
 minutes — till they are quite soft without break- 
 ing. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable 
 cost, tomatoes, 2d. to 6d. per pound. 
 
 TOMATOES, BAKED (another way). 
 
 Take five or six large ripe tomatoes, plunge 
 them for one minute into boiling water, take 
 them out, remove the thin skin, divide them in 
 halves, and squeeze out the seeds. Mix a salt- 
 spoonful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of white 
 pepper, a pinch of cayenne, and a little grated 
 nutmeg, into two ounces of fresh butter. 
 Arrange the tomatoes in a single layer on a 
 baking-dish, the cut side uppermost; put an 
 equal portion- of the seasoned butter on each, 
 and bake in a brisk oven. When done enough 
 pour the juice of a lemon over them, lay them 
 upon hot buttered toast, and pour over them the 
 gravy which was in the dish with them. Serve 
 very hot. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost, tomatoes, 2d. to 6d. per pound. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 TOMATOES, GRILLED. 
 
 The tomatoes should be small, ripe, and whole. 
 Coat them with oil, butter, clarified fat, or 
 bacon fat, and* grill over a clear fire on a 
 greased gridiron for five to ten minutes. The 
 American mode is to cut them into thin slices, 
 coat them with butter, mustard, and a pinch 
 of salt and sugar, and grill in the usual way. 
 If cooked in a Dutch oven before the fire they 
 are almost as good. 
 
 TOMATOES, PICKLED, 
 
 This pickle is very good with roast meat, cold 
 or hot. Take two dozen small ripe tomatoes; 
 prick each one in two or three places, carefully 
 preserve the juice that flows from them, and 
 keep it in a covered vessel until wanted. Put 
 the tomatoes in layers in a deep earthen jar, 
 and sprinkle a little salt between each layer. 
 Cover the jar, and let the tomatoes remain 
 undisturbed for three days. At the end of that 
 time wash them well from the brine and dry 
 them carefully. Put them into jars, and cover 
 them with vinegar which has been boiled and 
 f.llowed to get cold. Add the juice which flowed 
 from the fruit in the first instance, and cover 
 the jars closely. The pickle will be ready for 
 use in about a fortnight. The following spices 
 should be boiled with the vinegar for this quan- 
 tity of tomatoes. Half an ounce of pepper, half 
 an ounce of cloves, and a heaped table-spoonful 
 of mustard-seed. Sometimes minced onions or 
 minced celery, or both, are put into the jars 
 with the tomatoes. Time, four days. 
 
 TOMATOES, PRESERVED. 
 
 Cut the tomatoes into pieces, and simmer them 
 gently over a slow fire till they are reduced to 
 a pulp. Squeeze the juice from this pulp, boil 
 it until it is as thiot as cream, and then pour it 
 into small bottles. Place these in a large boiler 
 with cold water up to their necks. Bring the 
 water to the boil, and let it boil for a quarter of 
 
TOM 
 
 923 
 
 TON 
 
 an hour, then lift the bottles from the fire, and 
 let them remain in the water till it is cold. 
 Cork securely, and wax the corks. Store in a 
 cool, dry place. Time to boil, a quarter of an 
 hour. 
 
 TOMATOES, ROAST. 
 
 Take six or eight small ripe tomatoes. Slice 
 off the stalks and the parts that adhere to them. 
 Put them in a Dutch oven, place them before the 
 fire, and roast them until done enough. Serve 
 on a hot dish as an accompaniment to roast 
 meat. If it is more convenient they may be 
 placed at the edge of the dripping-tm instead 
 of in the Dutch, oven, but care must be taken 
 that the fat from the joint does not fall upon 
 them. Time to roast, twelve to twenty minutes. 
 Probable cost, 2d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. 
 
 TOMATOES, SCALLOPED. 
 
 Pour boiling water over six large tomatoes 
 for a few seconds, then peel them. Butter 
 a fire-proof dish and lay some slices of tomato 
 at the bottom, then a layer of bread-crumbs, 
 a good sprinkling of pepper and salt, an ounce 
 of oiled butter, and a tea-spoonful of chopped 
 parsley. Add more tomatoes and butter, and 
 bake in a fairly hot oven for twenty minutes. 
 TOMATOES, STEWED. 
 
 Take six or eight ripe red tomatoes. Remove 
 the stalks, slice the fruit, and put the slices into 
 a lined saucepan. Season with pepper and salt, 
 and place about tvfo ounces of butter divided 
 into little pieces here and there amongst them. 
 Cover the saucepan closely, and simmer the 
 tomatoes gently until they are quite tender. 
 Stir them two or three times, and serve on a 
 hot dish as an accompaniment to roast meat. 
 A spoonful or two of vinegar will be an improve- 
 ment. Time to stew the tomatoes, about twenty 
 minutes. Probable cost, tomatoes, 2d. to 6d. 
 per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 TOMATOES, STEWED (Portuguese way). 
 
 Slice half a dozen ripe tomatoes, season with 
 pepper and salt, and put little pieces of butter 
 here and there upon them. Mmce two onions 
 finely, ■sprinkle them over the tomatoes, cover 
 the saucepan closely, and steam them for a 
 quarter\ of an hour. Afterwards pour a quarter 
 of a pint of good brown gravy over them, stir 
 frequently, and let them simmer gently until 
 done enough. Have ready a quarter of a pound 
 of freshly-boiled rice. Stir this in with the 
 tomatoes, and mix the ingfredients thoroughly. 
 Turn the whole upon a hot dish, and send a 
 little more brown sauce to table in a tureen. 
 Time, about one hour to stew the tomatoes. 
 Probable cost, 2d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. 
 TOMATOES, STEWED WHOLE. 
 
 Take six or eight ripe tomatoes of medium 
 size. Remove the stalks, and arrange the fruit 
 in a stewpan in a single layer. Pour over them 
 as much good brown gravy as will reach to half 
 their height, stew them gently until they are 
 done enough, and turn them over carefully once 
 or twice that they may be equally cooked. 
 Thicken the gravy with a little flour and butter, 
 season with pepper and salt, and let it boil 
 two or three minutes after the thickening is 
 
 added. Serve the tomatoes very hot with the 
 sauce round them. Time, twenty to twenty- 
 five minutes. Probable cost, tomatoes, 2d. to 
 6d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 TOMATOES, STUFFED. 
 
 Choose half a dozen large tomatoes of uniform 
 size. Slice off the stalks and the green parts 
 round them, and scoop out the pips without 
 breaking the sides of the fruit. Make a 
 stuffing as follows. Mince two ounces of fat 
 bacon, and put it into a stewpan with half a 
 dozen mushrooms chopped small, a handful of 
 parsley, a small sprig of thyme, three or four 
 shallots, all chopped, and a little pepper and 
 salt. Stir this mixture over a gentle fire for 
 five minutes, then bind it together with the 
 well-beaten' yolks of three eggs. Fill the toma- 
 toes with this stuffing, set them side by side 
 in a saute-pan, and pour in salad-oil to the 
 height of a quarter of an inch. Sprinkle bread- 
 raspings lightly over the tomatoes, and place 
 them on a brisk fire, holding a red-hot shovel 
 over them, or bake them in a quick oven. 
 Serve on a hot dish, and pour some good brown 
 sauce round them. Time to fry the tomatoes, 
 from ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 
 tomatoes, 2d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for 
 six or seven persons. 
 
 TOMATOES, STUFFED (another way). 
 
 Take six or eight ripe red tomatoes of e.qual 
 size. Cut off the tops and the green parts 
 round them, and scoop out the insides. Press 
 the pulp through a sieve, and mix with it a 
 little salt and cayenne, two ounces of butter 
 broken into little pieces, and two heaped table- 
 spoonfuls of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Half 
 a dozen finely-minced stewed mushrooms may 
 be added or not. Fill the tomatoes with the 
 mixture, and bake in a moderate oven, or 
 fry them in oil until done enough. Before 
 serving, brown them by holding a salamander 
 or hot iron over them for a minute. Send 
 brown gravy to table in the dish with them. 
 Any good forcemeat that is liked may be used 
 to stuff tomatoes. The remains of game or 
 poultry minced finely, mixed with herbs and 
 bread-crumbs, seasoned, and bound together 
 with yolk of egg will answer excellently. Time 
 to bake the tomatoes, tep to twelve minutes ; 
 to fry them, eight minutes. Probable cost, 
 tomatoes, 2d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 
 TONGUE. 
 
 In choosing a tongue, take one which is plump 
 and smooth-skinned, as that is a sign that it is 
 young and tender ; and also endeavour to ascer- 
 tain how long it has been dried or pickled, so 
 as to know whether or not it will require long 
 soaking before being dressed. If very hard and 
 dry, it will be necessary to soak it at least 
 twelve hours in plenty of water; if fresh from 
 the pickle, two or three hours' soaking will be 
 sufficient. Horse tongues are frequently sold 
 as ox tongues to inexperienced purchasers. The 
 former may be known by a spoon-like expansion 
 at the end. 
 
 TONGUE, BAKED. 
 
 Take a tongue fresh from the pickle, wash and 
 soak it, and put it in a dish just large enough, 
 
TON 
 
 924 
 
 TON 
 
 for it. Put little pieces of butter here and there 
 upon it, cover with a common crust of flour and 
 water, and bake in a moderate oven until it is 
 quite tender. Remove the furred coating or 
 skin, and fasten the tongue down to a piece of 
 board by sticking one or two strong skewers 
 through the root and one through the tip so as 
 to hold the tongue iu an erect and elegant form 
 until it is quite cold. If to be eaten cold, glaze 
 it, trim the root, put a paper frilling round it 
 to hide its uusightliness, and serve garnished 
 with parsley. If to be eaten hot, serve the 
 tongue on a hot dish v/ith Brussels sprouts, 
 cauliflower, or other vegetables round it. Time 
 to bake, thr: to four hours, according to size. 
 Probable cost, 4s. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient for a 
 luncheon, supper, or breakfast dish. 
 
 TONGUE, BEEF. 
 
 If dried, a salted tongue must be soaked for 
 some hours before it is dressed. It must then 
 be put into cold water and gently brought to 
 the boiling point; then, after the surface of the 
 water has been cleared from scum, the saucepan 
 must be removed from the fire only so far as to 
 reduce the boiling to a gentle simmering. If 
 dried, a tongue will require quite four hours' 
 boiling; if simply salted, only three hours. 
 Whilst it is hot, the outer skin must be peeled 
 off, and the tongue may be sent to table either 
 glazed or plain. The usual accompaniment to 
 boiled tongue is boiled turnips. 
 TONGUE, BOILED. 
 
 If the tongue is dried, soak- it for twelve 
 hours; if taken fresh from the pickle, an hour 
 or two will be sufficient. Put the tongue into 
 cold v/ater, and let it come slowly to the boil. 
 Remove the scum carefully, and simmer the 
 tongue gently until done enough. Its flavour 
 will be improved if two or three large carrots 
 and a large bunch of savoury herbs be added 
 to the liquor after the scum is removed. When 
 the tongue is quite tender, so that it can be 
 easily probed with a small skewer, and so that 
 the skin can be easily peeled off, take it up, 
 remove the skin, and if it is to be eaten cold, 
 pass a large carving fork through the root end, 
 and by means of this fasten it on a board. 
 Pass through the tip another and smaller fork, 
 and before fixing it in the board draw the tongue 
 straight. Let it remain untouched until quite 
 cold, trim neatly, glaze it, and then wrap a 
 nioely-cut frill of tissue paper round the root, 
 which is a little unsightly. Garnish the dish 
 with parsley. If to be eaten hot, take off the 
 skin, wrap the tongue in a sheet of oiled paper, 
 pnd put it in a little boiling liquor for a 
 quarter of an hour before dishing it, to make it 
 quite hot. Garnish the dish with Brussels 
 sprouts, cauliflowers, dressed spinach, or any 
 other vegetables, and send tomato or piquant 
 sauce to table with it. Time, a large smoked 
 tongue, four hours and a half; a small smoked 
 tongue, two and a half to three hours; a large 
 unsmoked tongue, three hours and a half; 
 a email one, two to two and a half hours. 
 Probable cost, 4s. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient for a 
 breakfast, luncheon, or supper dish. 
 
 TONGUE, CARVING OF. 
 
 Begin to take slices, not too thin, from the 
 laiddle of the tongue, and afterwards cut slices 
 
 from each side, being careful not to cut quite 
 through the tongue. The extreme tip is usually 
 left and used for grating. A little of the fat 
 should be put upon each plate. When the 
 tongue is rolled, it should be cut in very thin 
 slices horizontally. 
 
 TONGUE, DRESDEN (a German recipe). 
 
 Procure a fresh bullock's tongue, wash well, 
 and wipe it quite dry. Put a large piece of 
 butter into a stewpan, which must be deep 
 enough to close well when the meat is in. 
 Dredge iu some flour ; put the tongue in ; let it 
 brown nicely on one side, then turn it. Whea 
 nicely browned all over, season it well; add a 
 pint and a half of water. Cover close, and let 
 it simmer — not boil — three hours and a half. 
 Add more water if the gravy wastes much. 
 There must be enough left to serve with the 
 tongue, which is eaten hot with potatoes, but 
 it is equally good cold. Garnish and serve with 
 slices of lemon. 
 
 TONGUE, FRESH OX. ' 
 
 Put the tongue on the Are in cold water, 
 simmer slowly till tender, and then remove the 
 skin. Melt two ounces of butter in a stew- 
 pan; dust in a table-spoonful of flour and as 
 much grated bread as the butter will take up, 
 and brown. Mince small a few rashers of bacon, 
 do the same with an onion, and add them to 
 the sauce with the juice of a lemon and a slice 
 of its peel. Thin the sauce with a little broth 
 or water in which the tongue was boiled. Lay 
 in the tongue, sprinkle with salt, cover, and let 
 it simmer slowly for an hoiir. 
 
 TONGUE, HUNGARIAN. 
 
 Put a fresh tongue on the fire with just cold 
 water enough to cover it, and with it a carrot, 
 an onion, a bay-leaf, a couple of slices of lemon, 
 some black pepper, salt, and a little garlic. 
 Let it simmer gently for about two hours till 
 quite tender. Skin and trim it. Either serve 
 it whole or cut into slices, and arranged in a ring 
 with the following thick sauce in the centre. 
 Strain the liquor which the tongue was cooked 
 in (this should be reduced in the simmering to 
 a mere gravy) ; brown a large table-spoqnful of 
 flour in a good-sized piece of butter ; braise two 
 or three cloves of garlic, and let them steam a 
 little while in the browning; then add the 
 strained gravy by deerees, stirring it quite 
 smooth. Add a little lemon-juice or vinegar; 
 and, whether the tongue be served whole or 
 sliced, the sauce must be dished with it. If 
 garlic be objected to, make a thick sauce of 
 grated horse-radish, a carrot bruised fine, sorrel, 
 capers, and a little wine. Garnish with lemon 
 slices and parsley. 
 
 TONGUE, PICKLED OR SALTED. 
 
 Tongues are generally bought ready pickled, 
 b'.it as some cooks like to prepare their own 
 tongues, two or three methods are here given. 
 Of Qiese the simplest is the following. Trim the 
 root, and leave a little of the fat ; place the 
 tongue in a deep dish, cover with salt, and let it 
 lie until the next day. Pour off the slime that 
 will have come from it, and rub the meat well 
 with a mixture made of half a pound of salt, 
 half a pound of moist sugar, and two ounces of 
 saltpetre. Turn and rub it every day for a 
 
TON 
 
 925 
 
 TON 
 
 week, renew the pickle, and turn and rub the 
 tongue every day for another week, when it will 
 be ready for use. Or, trim the root, put the 
 tongue in a deep pan, cover with salt, and 
 let it lie for twenty-four hours. Drain ofE the 
 slime, and rub it with a mixture made as 
 follows. Take three pounds of common salt, a 
 quarter of a pound of moist sugar, three ounces 
 of saltpetre, with a quarter of an ounce each 
 of cloves, mace, and pepper, two table-spoon- 
 fuls of mixed herbs finely chopped — thyme, 
 marjoram, bay-leaves, winter savory, and basil. 
 Pound these ingredients in a mortar, and mix 
 them thoroughly. Rub this mixture into the 
 tongue, and turn and rub it every day for 
 twelve days or a fortnight, when it will be 
 ready for use. Or let the tongue lie in salt 
 for twenty-four hours as above. Bub into it a 
 mixture made with half a pound of common 
 salt, half an ounce of bay salt, half an ounce 
 of saltpetre, .and a quarter of a pound of moist 
 sugar. Turn and rub it every day for three 
 weeks for a small tongue, four weeks for a 
 large one. Or, make a pickle by boiling a 
 pound of salt, a pound of moist sugar, two 
 ounces of saltpetre, and three ounces of sal 
 prunella in a gallon of water for twenty 
 minutes. Let the brine get cold, then put 
 the tongue in it, and let it lie for a fortnight, 
 and lay a small board on the top to keep the 
 meat under the liquor. This pickle may be 
 used several times if it is boiled occasionally. 
 Tongues are alwaya^best when used straight 
 out of the pickle. When this is not convenient, 
 however, they should be taken out, rubbed dry, 
 hung up to keep, and smoked, if liked. 
 
 TONGUE, POTTED. 
 
 Take the remains of a cold boiled tongue. 
 Remove all the hard parts, cut the meat into 
 small pieces, and afterwards pound it to a 
 smooth paste ; season with cayenne, and beat 
 with it one-fourth of its weight in clarified 
 butter. Press it into small jars, cover it about 
 a quarter of an inch deep with clarified butter, 
 melted dripping, or melted su^t, and let it stand 
 three or four hours before it is used. A smaller 
 proportion of butter will be required if a little 
 of the fat of the tongue is used instead of lean 
 only, but the butter must not be entirely dis- 
 pensed with. Some cooks season the meat by 
 ■ degrees with a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, 
 a salt-spoonful of white pepper, a pinch of 
 cayenne, and as much' grated nutmeg as will 
 cover a threepenny piece to each pound of • 
 tongue. Potted tongue is excellent when 
 pounded with its weight in well-dressed cold 
 chicken, cold veal, or cold partridge. Time — 
 the tongue to be pounded till reduced to a per- 
 fectly smooth paste. 
 
 TONGUE, ROASTED. 
 
 Parboil a tongue that has been salted about 
 ten days; roast, baste at first with red wine, 
 and lastly with butter. Serve with a rich gravy 
 and swoet sauce. 
 
 TONGUE, ROLLED. 
 
 Take a large ox-tongue. If dry, soak it in 
 plenty of cold water before dressing it; if fresh 
 from the pickle, soak it for two or three hours 
 only. Put it into a large stewpan with plenty 
 of cold water and a bunch of savoury herbs; 
 
 bring it slowly to the boil, remove the scum as 
 it rises, and simmer gently until tender. Take 
 off the skin — which will come off easily if the 
 tongue is sufficiently boiled — trim the roots, re- 
 move the bones, and press the tongue, fat in- 
 wards, into a round tin just large enough to hold 
 it. Put a weighted dish upon it, and let it 
 remain until cold. Turn it out, glaze it, or tie 
 a napkin neatly round it, and garnish with tufts 
 of parsley. Time, a large smoked tongue, four 
 hours and a half ; a small smoked tongue, three 
 hours ; a large unsmoked tongue, three hours 
 and a half ; a small one, two hours to two hours 
 and a half. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. to 6s. SuT- 
 ficient for a breakfast, supper, or luncheon dish. 
 
 TONGUES, GLAZED. 
 
 The appearance of cold boiled tongue is very 
 greatly improved by glazing. Glaze may either 
 be made at home (see Glaze) — which is rather a 
 difficult operation, as it may be so easily burnt 
 — or it may be bought in skins. It either case, 
 take a small portion and put it into a jelly-pot, 
 set this in a pan with a small quantity of boil- 
 ing water, and keep the water boiling until the 
 glaae is dissolved. Brush the tongue all over 
 with the glaze, or, rather, lay the glaze lightly 
 and equally on the tongue with a brush, and 
 when one coat is dry, put on a second, and a 
 third if necessary ; but, generally speaking, two 
 coats will be found sufficient. 
 
 TONGUE SOUP. 
 
 Take the liquor in which a tongue has been 
 boiled. Strain and skim it, and put it into a 
 stewpan with the trimmings of the tongue, and 
 any bones or trimmings of fowl or veal that may 
 be at hand, or, failing these, two pennyworth 
 of fresh bones. Bring it to the boil, and skini 
 carefully, then let it simmer gently for three or 
 four hours. At the end of that time put with 
 it a large carrot, a turnip, an onion, five or six 
 outer sticks of celeryj and a. large pinch of 
 cayenne, and let it simmer an hour longer. 
 Strain it, and let it get cool, so that the fat 
 may be entirely removed. Put it again upon 
 the fire, and when it boils throw into it a large 
 carrot and a large turnip, cut into dice, and two 
 table-spoonfuls of the thin end of a dried tongue 
 finely grated. Serve with toasted sippets. Time, 
 three or four hours to boil the liquor with the 
 bones. Probable cost, 2d. per quart, exclusive 
 of the tongue. Sufficient, a quart for four 
 people. 
 
 TONGUES, ROOTS OF. 
 
 As the roots of a tongue generally have an un- 
 sightly appearance, they may be trimmed off, 
 and either potted according to the directions 
 given above, or made into pea soup as follows. 
 Put the trimmings of the tongue into a stew- 
 pan with some roast beef bones or fresh bones, 
 a quart of split peas (which have been soaked for 
 six or eight hours m cold water), and three 
 quarts of the liquor in which meat has been 
 boiled. Failing this, use cold water. Add two 
 or three onions, a sprig of thyme or marjoram, 
 a bunch of parsley, a bay-leaf, and five or six 
 outer sticks of celery. ■ Let the liquor boil, skim 
 carefully, and afterwards simmer gently until 
 the peas are tender, stirring frequently to keep 
 them from sticking to the bottom. Press the 
 whole through a sieve, working it with the back 
 
TON 
 
 926 
 
 TOW 
 
 of a wooden spoon, put it back into the pan, and 
 let it boil again for about a quarter of an hour ; 
 add salt and pepper, and it will be ready for 
 serving. Care must be taken that the peas are 
 not put into salted liquor, or they will not easily 
 become tender. Time to simmer the peas and the 
 meat, about three hours, according to the 
 quality of the peas. Probable cost, exclusive 
 of the roots, 3d. per quart. Sufficient for eight 
 or ten persons. 
 
 TONGUES, SHEEP'S. 
 
 Wash half a dozen sheep's tongues, put them 
 into a saucepan with as much boiling stock as 
 will cover them, and let them simmer gently 
 until tender. Take oS the skin, and trim the 
 tongues in halves. Dish them in a circle, 
 the roots inwards, and pour into the centre 
 mashed turnips, green peas, or a little onion 
 sauce. Time to simmer one hour or more. 
 Probable cost, about 4d, each. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 
 TONGUES, SHEEP'S, SALTED. 
 
 Wash half a dozen sheep's tongues, and rub 
 into each one a tea-spoonful of moist sugar, a 
 table-spoonful of salt, and a few drops of strong 
 vinegar or lemon-juice. Let them lie for five 
 days. Put them into a saucepan with as much 
 boiling water as will cover them. Let them 
 boil, then draw the saucepan to the side of the 
 fire, and simmer them gently until tender. 
 Take off the skin, trim the roots neatly, and 
 split the tongues in halves. Arrange them in a 
 circle round a dish, and garnish with parsley. 
 Time to simmer, about an hour. Probable cost, 
 4d. each. Sufficient for a breakfast or supper 
 dish. 
 
 TONGUE, STEWED. 
 
 Wash a tongue, and trim away the coarser 
 parts of the root. Hub it well with common salt 
 and a small quantity of saltpetre, let it lie for 
 a week, and turn and rub it every day. Boil in 
 the usual way until it is tender. Pull off the 
 skin, and put the tongue again into the stewpan 
 with part of the strained liquor in which it was 
 boiled, a pint of strong stock, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, two bay-leaves, and five or six outer 
 sticks of celery. Let it simmer gently for an 
 hour. Lift out the herbs and the celery, and 
 season the gravy with a salt-spoonful of white 
 pepper, a little salt if necessary, two pounded 
 cloves, a table-spoonful of mushroom ket- 
 chup, a table-spoonful of lemon or walnut 
 pickle, and a glassful of white wine, and thicken 
 with flour and butter. Serve the tongue on a 
 hot dish. Pour the sauce over it, and send 
 stewed mushrooms to table with it. If any 
 gravy is left, it may be used advantageously for 
 stews. Time, one hour to stew the tongue after 
 it is peeled. Probable cost, tongue, 4s. 6d. to 
 6s. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 TONGUE, STEWED (another way). 
 
 Simmer the tongue for two hours in just 
 enough water to cover it ; peel it, and return it 
 to the water, adding some pepper, mace, and 
 cloves tied up in a piece pf muslin. Cut some 
 turnips and rapers very small, slice some carrots, 
 and add these also to the liquor with half a 
 pint of beef gravy, a wine-glassful of white wine, 
 and a bunch of sweet herbs. Stew all together 
 
 very gently for an hour and a half longer; take 
 
 out the spice and sweet herbs, and thicken the 
 
 gravy with flour worked into a small piece of 
 
 butter. 
 
 TONGUE, TO SERVE A CUT. 
 
 A pretty dish may be made from a tongue 
 which has been cut into and partially used. Cut 
 the tongue into thin round slices, and aiTange- 
 them in a circle on a dish, each piece overlapping 
 the next. Garnish the sides of ths dish with a 
 border of chopped parsley. If Uked, the slices 
 may be lightly glazed. Some cooks warm the 
 slices in a little nicely-flavoured brown sauce, 
 and serve them hot with the sauce poured over 
 them. 
 
 TONGUE, WITH ASPIC JELLY. 
 
 Boil a tongue in the usual way, and cither roll 
 it, or fix it on a board till quite cold. Take a 
 pint of the liquor in which it was boiled, per- 
 fectly free from fat and sediment, and put it 
 into a stewpan with a small sprig of thyme, 
 three shallots, a bay-leaf, a small piece of mace, 
 three cloves, and two ounces of gelatine. Stir 
 it until the latter is dissolved, then lift it to 
 the side of the fire, and let it cool. Whisk the 
 whites of two eggs with a cupful of cold water 
 and a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar. Stir 
 this into the liquor, and when it is very hot 
 leave it to boil, and let it boil gently for a 
 quarter of an hour without being touched. Lift 
 it from the fire, and let it stand to settle for 
 ten minutes longer, then strain it through a 
 jelly-bag till clear. Glaze the tongue, put it 
 on its dish, and ornament with the jelly cut into 
 cubes. Time to make the aspic, about an hour 
 and a half. Probable cost, aspic. Is. 6d. Suf- 
 ficient for one tongue. 
 
 TOTTENHAM MUFFINS. 
 
 Beat three eggs till they are lightly frothed, 
 and stir them into a quart of flour properly 
 salted. Add as much lukewarm milk as will 
 make a thick batter, and stir in a table-spoonful 
 of clarified butter and a quarter of a pint of 
 good fresh yeast. , Cover the bowl containing 
 the dough, and let it remain in a warm place 
 till it is lightly risen. Drop spoonfuls of it 
 separately on a floured board. Let these re- 
 main for a quarter of an hour, then put them 
 into muffin hoops and bake them. When one 
 side is slightly brown turn them upon the other. 
 Time to rise, about an hour. Probable cost, ^d. 
 each. Sufficient, one or two for each person. 
 TOULOUSE RAGOUT (for garnishing large or small 
 dishes). 
 
 Cook separately equal quantities of the fol- 
 lowing ingredients, as many as may be required 
 for the dish it is intended to garnish. Button 
 mushrooms, cockscombs, sliced truffles, quen- 
 elles, and scallops of sweetbread. Pour over 
 these as much nicely-flavoured white sauce as 
 will cover them, and when they are quite hot 
 the garnish will be ready for use. Time to sim- 
 mer the whole together, three minutes. 
 
 TOWN PUDDING. 
 
 Shred six ounces of suet very finely, and free 
 it from skin. Mix with it a small pinch of salt, 
 six ounces of moist sugar, half a pound of 
 chopped apples (weighed^after being pared and- 
 cored), half a pound of finely-grated bread- 
 
TRA 
 
 927 
 
 TRE 
 
 crumbs, and half a tea-spoonful of finely-cut 
 lemon-rind. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, 
 and press them very tightly into a buttered 
 basin which they will quite fill. Tie a floured 
 cloth over the pudding, and boil it four hours. 
 It will not require any moisture. Turn it out 
 carefully, and send sweet sauce or wine sauce 
 to table with it. Time to boil, four hours. 
 Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for half a dozen 
 persons. 
 
 TRANSPARENT DESSERT CAKES. 
 
 Take a large cake (almost any kind will do), 
 ^cut it into slices about the third of an inch 
 thick, and stamp these into any fancy shapes, 
 such as diamonds, squares, hearts, stars, rounds, 
 etc. Spread a little good jam over them, having 
 previously hollowed the surface a little to keep 
 the jam from running over the sides. Boil 
 half a pound of refined loaf sugar with half a 
 pint of water to the second degree. When this 
 point is reached, take it from the fire and set 
 the bottom of the saucepan in a basin of cold 
 water: as soon as the sugar begins to thicken 
 beat it from the middle against the side of 
 the pan for a minute or two, and add very 
 gradually one-eighth of a pint of maraschino 
 or CuraQoa and two or three spoonfuls of clear 
 syrup. Spread a little of this preparation over 
 the jam upon the cakes, and as each cake is 
 masked lay it on a drainer in a dish, and when 
 this is full place it in an open screen for a few 
 minutes to dry. In order to ascertain when 
 the suo^ar has reached the second degree, skim 
 it carefully, dip a perforated spoon into it, and 
 blow the sugar off into the pan. When it has ' 
 boiled long enough, large bubbles will form on 
 the holes of the skimmer {fee directions under 
 Sugar Boiling). 
 
 TRANSPARENT PIE-CRUST. 
 
 Take three-quarters of a pound of sweet fresh 
 butter, break it into little pieces, and put it into 
 a jar until it is quite melted without being oiled. 
 Let it cool, and mix with it a well-beaten fresh 
 egg and one pound of dried and sifted flour. 
 Soil the paste very thin, line the tartlct-tins 
 as quickly as possible, and bake the tarts in a 
 well-heated oven. Just before putting them in 
 brush them over with cold water, and sift a 
 little powdered sugar over them. Time to bake, 
 ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost. Is. lOd. 
 for this quantity. Sufficient for two dishes 'of 
 tarts. 
 
 TRANSPARENT PUDDING. 
 
 Whisk eight eggs thoroughly. Put them into 
 a saucepan with half a pound of powdered sugar, 
 half a pound of fresh butter, and any flavouring 
 that may be preferred, either grated lemon-rind, 
 grated nutmeg, or almond flavouring. If fresh 
 lemon-rind is used, a, little lemon-juice may be 
 added as well. Stir the mixture over the fire 
 until it thickens, then pour it out to cool. Line 
 the edges of a buttered baking-dish with good 
 pastry, pour in the mixture, and bake the 
 pudding in a moderate oven. It may be served 
 either cold or hot — whichever is the more 
 convenient. A little powdered sugar should 
 be sifted over the pudding before it is sent 
 to table. Time to bake, three-quarters of 
 an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 2d. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 TREACLE CHEESECAKES. 
 
 Line a buttered plate or large tartlet-tin with 
 good short crust, and then fill it with a mixture 
 prepared as follows. Stir a table-spoonful of 
 flour into four table-spoonfuls of good treacle, 
 and when the preparation is quite smooth add 
 as much powdered ginger as will lie on a four- 
 penny-piece. Ornament the cheesecakes by lay- 
 ing twists of pastry across the top, and bake in 
 a well-heated oven for half an hour. Probable 
 cost, 8d. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 TREACLE PARKIN. 
 
 Put four ounces of butter with three-quarters 
 of a pound of best treacle into a jar, and place 
 this near the fire until the butter is dissolved, 
 then stir in four ounces of moist sugar. Mix 
 a pound of oatmeal with half a pound of flour, 
 three-quarters of an ounce of powdered ginger, 
 and a quarter of an ounce of caraway-seeds. 
 Stir the treacle, etc., into the oatmeal, and make 
 the mixture into a firm paste with a little flour. 
 Roll it out to the thickness of a quarter of an 
 inch, and bake in buttered tartlet-tins in a 
 moderate oven. If liked, the caraway-seeds may 
 be omitted, and a little sliced candied peel added 
 when the parkin is, rolled on the table. Keep 
 the parkin in tins carefully excluded from the 
 air. Or rub one pound of butter into four 
 pounds of oatmeal, add half a pound of sugar, 
 two ounces of ground ginger, and as much 
 warm treacle as will make a tolerably stift' 
 batter. A cupful of milk may be added if 
 liked. Put the batter into buttered baking-tins, 
 or small tartlet-tins, and bake in a moderate 
 oven. In order to ascertain when it is done 
 enough, put a skewer into the centre, and if 
 this comes out dry and clean the parkin is 
 ready. A little sliced candied peel or a few 
 caraway - seeds may be added if approved. 
 Time to bake, according to size : the parkin 
 should be done rather slowly, or the outside will 
 be burnt before the inner part is done enough. 
 
 TREACLE POSSET. 
 
 Boil half a pint of new milk, and as it is rising 
 in the pan stir into it two table-spoonfuls of 
 treacle. Boil until the curd separates, then 
 drain it off, and boil the posset again. Treacle 
 posset should be taken the last thing before 
 going to bed. It is an excellent thing tor pro- 
 moting perspiration. Time, a few minutes. 
 Probable cost, 2d. Sufficient for one person. 
 
 TREACLE PUDDING. 
 
 Make some good crust with suet or dripping, 
 and roll it out to the thickness of a third of 
 an inch. Butter a pudding-basin, and line it 
 with the pastry. Put a layer of pastry at the 
 bottom, then a layer of treacle, and repeat until 
 the basin is full. Put a cover on the top, 
 moisten the edges, and pinch them closely to- 
 gether. Wring a pudding-cloth out of boiling 
 water, flour it well, and tie it securely over the 
 basin. Plunge the pudding into as much boil- 
 ing water as will cover it, and boil quickly and 
 without ceasing until it is done enough. Turn 
 it out on a hot dish, and serve very hot. If 
 liked, a little lemon-juice, grated lemon-peel, 
 and fine bread-crumbs may be sprinkled over 
 each layer of treacle. Time to boil, three hours 
 for a moderate-sized pudding. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. Probable cost, Is. 
 
TRE 
 
 928 
 
 TRI 
 
 TREACLE PUDDING (another way). 
 
 Make some good firm suet pastry, roll it out 
 to the third of an inch in thickness, and longer 
 than it is broad. Spread treacle all over it 
 within half an inch of the edge. Wet the 
 edges, roll up the pudding into the form of a 
 bolster, and fasten the ends securely. Wring 
 a pudding-cloth out of boiling water, flour it 
 well, fold it round the pudding, and tie the ends 
 firmly. Plunge the pudding into boiling water, 
 and keep it boiling quickly until done enough. 
 If liked, a table-spoonful of iiour and a quarter 
 of a tea-spoonful of ground ginger may be mixed 
 with every four table-spoonfuls of treacle, or a 
 little grated lemon-rind, the juice of a lemon, 
 and a few bread-crumbs may be sprinkled over 
 the treacle. When the pudding is done enough, 
 let it cool a minute or two, turn it out carefufly, 
 serve on a hot dish, and send melted butter to 
 table with it. Time to boil, one hour and a 
 half, or more, according to the size. Probable 
 cost. Is. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 TREACLE ROLY-POLY. 
 
 Either a plain short paste or a suet one may 
 be used. Eoll it out half an inch thick, cover 
 with treacle and bread-crumbs, leaving at least 
 an inch at the edges clear of the treacle. Then 
 roll up firmly, and pinch the edges together 
 after moistening them. Tie up in a cloth that 
 has been brushed over with butter or clarified 
 fat, and boil for about two hours. For a baked 
 pudding use a short or flaky paste, roll up 
 tightly, and bake in a tin with the join of the 
 pudding downwards. Probable cost, 8d. or 
 lOd. for a moderate-sized pudding. 
 
 TREACLE TARTS. 
 
 Line a tin plate with a plain paste, put on a 
 good allowance of treacle, and add as many 
 bread-crumbs as will make it of a jam-like con- 
 sistency. A tea-spoonful of ground ginger, or 
 half as much nutmeg or mixed spice may be 
 used to flavour a pound of treacle, and a grate 
 or two of lemon-peel or a tea-spoonful of lemon- 
 juice may be added. The tart m^ay be covered 
 with another layer of paste, and the edges 
 crimped, or some bars and leaves may be cut 
 from the paste, and put on to nearly cover the 
 surface. Bake in a moderate oven until the 
 paste is browned. Probable cost. Id. each. 
 
 TREACLE TOFFEE. 
 
 Bub the saucepan with butter, and pour in as 
 much treacle as may be wanted. Let it boil 
 gently until a small portion will break between 
 the teeth after being thrown into cold water. 
 When the toffee has reached this point it should 
 be taken at once off the fire, or it will very 
 quickly acquire a burnt taste. Pour it upon a 
 buttered dish, and when it is cool roll it into 
 sticks, and fold it in clean white paper. The 
 toffee may, if liked, be flavoured with essence 
 of peppermint, or almond, or lemon flavouring; 
 and it is said that treacle toffee with a little 
 cayenne pepper thrown into it is an excellent 
 cure for a cough. 
 
 TRIFLE. 
 
 This is a compound of syllabub and sweet- 
 meats. Line the bottom of a glass trifle-dish 
 with sponge biscuits stuck with blanched al- 
 monds; moisten them with sweet wine, or with 
 
 sherry and sugar, Over these lay a dozen 
 ratafia cakes dipjjed in noyeau. Intersperse 
 with these some thin slices of citron and orange- 
 peel, and distribute over these pieces of apricot 
 and raspberry jam with currant jelly. Pour 
 over these a few spoonfuls of the liquor of the 
 syllabub. The next layer should consist of 
 tartlet cream of about the thickness of an inch, 
 over which grate some nutmeg, and strew a 
 little powdered cinnamon, together with a small 
 quantity of lemon-peel, and some powdered 
 loaf sugar. Lastly, take the whipped froth 
 from the sieve, and put it on the top as 
 abundantly as the dish will allow. To give it 
 a pleasing appearance, strew various coloured 
 comfits over the froth. The tartlet cream tu 
 form one of the layers may be made as follows. 
 Mix together half a pint of cream and the 
 same quantity of milk; put into it a piece of 
 fresh lemon or Seville orange-peel, and a little 
 cinnamon, and sweeten with loaf sugar. Let 
 these ingredients boil about ten minutes. Have 
 ready prepared in another pan the yolks of six 
 eggs well-beaten up with a heaped tea-spoon- 
 ful of fine flour ; to these gradually strain the 
 boiled cream and milk, and then whisk them 
 well together over a gentle fire, so that they 
 may acquire the proper consistency without 
 curdling. If cream is not available, milk only' 
 may be employed, but in that case a little more 
 flour will be required. 
 
 TRIFLE (another way). 
 
 The whipped cream which is laid over the top 
 of a trifle should be made the day before it is 
 wanted, as then it will be much firmer. Hub the 
 rind of a large fresh lemon with two or three 
 lumps of sugar till all the yellow part is taken 
 off, then add a little more sugar to make up the 
 quantity to three ounces, and crush it to powder. 
 Warm a pint of cream, and stir the sugar in this 
 till it is dissolved. Add a glassful of sherry, a 
 tea-spoonful of the juice of the lemon, a table- 
 spoonful of brandy, and'the whites of two eggs, 
 which have been whisked separately to a firm 
 froth. Mill or whip the mixture in a cool 
 place, and as the froth rises take it off, and 
 place it on an inverted sieve to drain. Continue 
 whisking until the whole of the cream is frothed, 
 and set the sieve in a cool place, or upon ice, 
 with a dish under it. The next day put four 
 sponge biscuits, a quarter of a pound of maca- 
 roons, and a quarter of a pound of ratafias at 
 the bottom of .a trifle-dish, and pour over them a 
 large wine-glassful of sherry, and another of 
 brandy, or if preferred use two parts wine and 
 one part spirit, and let the biscuits soak till they 
 have absorbed all the liquor. Grate a little 
 lemon-rind upon the cakes, and spread over them 
 a layer of goo4 jam, then cover them with a pint 
 of nicely-flavoured, rich, cold custard. Pile the 
 whipped cream lightly over the top as high as 
 possible, and then garnish the dish with pink 
 comfits, bright-coloured jelly, or flowers. Time, 
 about one hour and a half to whip the cream. 
 Probable cost, exclusive of the wine and spirit, 
 4s. 6d., if the custard be made with milk. Suf- 
 ficient for one trifle. 
 
 TRIFLE (another way). 
 
 Whip a pint of cream the day before it is 
 wanted, according to the directions given in the 
 
TRI 
 
 929 
 
 TRI 
 
 last reqipe; as the froth rises lay it on a re- 
 versed sieve to drain. Take two dozen finger 
 biscuits ; spread a little raspberry jam on the flat 
 side of twelve of them, and lay the other twelve 
 upon them. Arrange these round a trifle-dish, 
 put a quarter of a pound of macaroni, a quarter 
 of a pound of ratafias, and four penny sponge- 
 cakes at the bottom of the dish ; pour over them 
 a glassful of sherry or Madeira and a glassful of 
 brandy, and let them soak till they have ab- 
 sorbed, all the liquor. Pour a pint of rich cold 
 custard over the soaked biscuits, and pile the 
 whipped cream on the top. The custard may 
 be made with a pint of milk, the well-beaten 
 yolks of eight eggs, a heaped table-spoonful of 
 powdered sugar, a table-spoonful of brandy, and 
 any flavouring that may be preferred. Time, 
 twenty-four hours to drain the whipped cream ; 
 two hours to soak the biscuits; ten minutes to 
 thicken the custard. Probable cost, exclusive 
 of the wine and spirit, 4a. lOd. Suflicient for 
 one centre dish. 
 
 TRIFLE, AN ELEGANT. 
 
 Make some whipped cream the day before the 
 trifle is wanted, as no whip is solid unless it has 
 stood for some hours. It should be made with 
 a quart of thick cream, nearly all of the rind of 
 two lemons, a glassful of sherry, and three table- 
 apoonfuls of sugar. Whisk the mixture briskly, 
 and as the froth forms lay it on an inverted sieve 
 to drain. Put a quarter of a pound of ratafias, 
 a quarter of a pound of macaroni, and three 
 or fpur sponge biscuits at the bottom of a trifle- 
 dish, and pour over them a pint of nicely- 
 flavoured liquid calf's foot jelly, and set this m 
 a cool place to stiffen. Dissolve a quarter of an 
 ounce of isinglass in a little water, and put with 
 it a pint of ttiick cream, the grated rind of half 
 a lemon, and a heaped table-spoonful of sugar. 
 When this is cool, pour it over the jelly, and as 
 it begins to set eruament with bright-coloured 
 jam and macaroni soaked in wine. Pile the 
 whipped cream high on the top, and the trifle 
 will be ready for serving. Probable cost, 7s., 
 exclusive of the wine and brandy. Sufficient for 
 one centre dish. ' 
 
 TRIFLE, APPLE. 
 
 Make a whip the day before the trifle is wanted, 
 as for other trifles, using a pint of cream, two 
 ounces of sugar, a glassful of sherry, and the 
 white of an egg. Lay the froth on an inverted 
 sieve, and leave it in a cool place. Peel, core, 
 and slice a dozen fine apples, and put them into 
 a saucepan with two table-spoonfuls of sugar 
 and two of water, and let them simmer gently 
 until quite soft. Press them through a sieve, 
 and mix With the pulp the grated rind of half a 
 lemon and a table-spoonful of brandy — but the 
 brandy may be omitted. Make a thin custard 
 with half a pint of cream, half a pint of milk, 
 and a little sugar, and stir the mixture over the 
 fire until it begins to thicken, but do not let it 
 boil. Lay the pulped apples at the bottom of 
 the trifle-dish; when the custard is cool pour it 
 over them, pile the whipped cream high on the 
 top, and the trifle will be ready for serving. It 
 may be ornamented with stripes of bright apple 
 jelly. When it is not convenient to make the 
 whipped cream, an inexpensive and simple sub- 
 stitute may be made as follows. Whisk the 
 
 3h 
 
 whites only of three eggs to a firm froth ; 
 sweeten and flavour them, drop them in large 
 spoonfuls into boiling water for a quarter of a 
 minute, and turn them lightly over in the water 
 that they may be set all round. Let them drain 
 two or three minutes, and pile them over the 
 custard. The appearance of the dish may be 
 varied by slightly colouring half the whisked 
 eggs with a few drops of cochineal. Time, 
 about half an hour to stew the apples. Prob- 
 able cost, 3s. 6d., if cream be used. Sufficient 
 for a small trifie-dish. 
 
 TRIFLE (en Surprise). 
 
 Take a round Madeira cake about a pound 
 and a half in weight, and scoop the middle out, 
 leaving the bottom and sides three-quarters of 
 an inch thick. The top should first be cut 
 straight ofE. Then crumble a, third of the re- 
 moved portion, and soak it in three- gills of hot 
 custard, flavoured to taste ; when cold mix in 
 a gill of whipped cream, sweetened and fia- 
 voured. Moisten the outer wall of cake with 
 a little sherry or Madeira ; then spread the inner 
 part of it with any nice stoneless jam. Soak a 
 few ounces of ratafia and macaroon biscuits in 
 wine, and proceed to fill the cake, using the 
 biscuits and the soaked part of the cake in 
 alternate layers. Replace the top, which may 
 be covered with bright jelly of any kind or 
 whipped cream, and tastefully ornament the 
 base of the cake in a similar manner. Probable 
 cost, 4s. 6d. 
 
 TRIFLE, GOOSEBERRY. 
 
 Wash a pint of green gooseberries, and stew 
 them gently with a little water until they break ; 
 press them through a sieve, throw away the 
 skins, and sweeten the pulp agreeably. Make 
 a thin custard, as recommended for apple trifle, 
 and when it begins to thicken, pour it out and 
 let it cool. Mix it with the fruit pulp, lay it on 
 the trifle-dish, and pile whipped cream on the 
 top, as for other trifles. Time, about half an 
 hour to simmer the gooseberries. Probable cost, 
 3s. 6d., if made with cream. Suflicient for a 
 trifle-dish. 
 
 TRIFLE, GOOSEBERRY (another way). 
 
 Prepare the gooseberry-pulp as in the last 
 recipe. Cut four or five rather stale penny 
 spongecakes into slices, lay them in a deep glass 
 dish, pour over them a wine-glassful of brandy 
 and a wine-glassful of sherry, and let them soak 
 till they have absorbed the liquor. Spread the 
 gooseberry-pulj) upon them, and cover the fruit 
 with the following preparation. Sweeten a pint 
 of new milk, and flavour with lem.on-rind or any 
 other agreeable flavouring. Mix two table- 
 spoonfuls of cornflour very smoothly with a 
 quarter of a pint of cold milk; add three well- 
 beaten eggs, and then mix all thoroughly. Make 
 the flavoured milk hot without letting it boil, 
 and stir it into the rest. Turn the mixture into 
 a saucepan, and beat it over a gentle fire until it 
 begins to thicken. Pour it out to cool, and stir 
 frequently. When cold, spread it over the fruit. 
 This dish should be made two or three hours 
 before it is wanted. Time, half an hour to boil 
 the gooseberries ; about half an hour to make 
 the Oswego. Probable cost, exclusive of the 
 brandy and wine. Is. 8d. Sufficient for five or 
 six persons. 
 
TRI 
 
 930 
 
 TRI 
 
 TRIFLE, GROUND RICE. 
 
 Sweeten a quart of milk, and flavour with 
 lemon or any other suitable flavouring. Put it 
 into a saucepan, and stir into it five "heaped 
 table-spoonfuls of ground rice which has been 
 mixed to a smooth paste with a little cold milk. 
 Let the mixture boil gently for five or six 
 minutes, stirring all the time, and pour it into 
 a basin until slightly cooled. Place a jelly-pot 
 in the middle of a glass dish, pour the ground 
 rice round it, and let it get cold and stiff. Just 
 before serving the rice, remove the jelly-pot, 
 and in its place put half a pint of good cold 
 custard. Stick blanched and sliced almonds all 
 over the trifle, and garnish with bright fruit 
 jelly. If liked, the appearance of the dish may 
 be varied by pouring the rice into a glass dish, 
 and when it is cold and stiff cutting it out 
 into the shape of a star, a diamond, or any other 
 design, then removing the spare rice and filling 
 the spaces it occupied with custard. Time, 
 four or five hours to stiffen. Probable cost. 
 Is. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 TRIFLES, SAVOURY. 
 
 Any kind of cold meat, game, fish, or shell- 
 fish may be elegantly served as follows. Mince 
 the meat, season it, and warm it in a little 
 sauce, as if it were to be used for vol-au-vents or 
 patties. Make some paper cases by pressing a 
 round of thick writing-paper into a circiuar 
 wooden box to take the shape. Lightly oil these 
 cases inside and out, fill them with the savoury 
 mince, and put them into a brisk oven for a 
 minute or two to make them hot. Sprinkle a 
 few bread-crumbs over the top, and send the 
 trifles to table neatly arranged on a napkin. 
 They will make a pretty corner dish. Time to 
 heat the mince in the cases, two or three 
 minutes. 
 
 TRIFLE, SWISS. 
 
 Take two ounces each of macaroons and 
 ratafias; crumble them, put them at the bottom 
 of a glass dish, and then pour over them two 
 table-spoonfuls of brandy. Flavour a pint of 
 cream by soaking the thin rind of a fresh 
 lemon and a quarter of an inch of stick 
 cinnamon : then lift them out, sweeten the 
 cream, and stir into it a thin batter made of 
 four tea-spoonfuls of ground rice, or, if pre- 
 ferred, fine flour mixed smoothly with a little 
 cold milk. Stir this mixture o.ver a gentle fire 
 until it boils, and continue to simmer it, stirring 
 unceasingly for four minutes. Pour it out, let 
 it get cold, then add gradually the strained juice 
 of two fresh lemons. Spread the custard over 
 the biscuits, and stick blanched and sliced al- 
 monds over the surface. This trifle should be 
 made some hours before it is wanted. Time, 
 four minutes to stir the custard over the fire 
 after it has boiled. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 
 TRINITY COLLEGE PUDDING. 
 
 Mince four ounces of cold boiled tongue very 
 finely, and mix with it eight ounces of finely- 
 shredded suet, eight ounces of grated bread- 
 crumbs, a quarter of a pound of stoned raisins, 
 a quarter of a pound of picked and dried cur- 
 rants, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, two 
 ounces of shredded candied peel, a small table- 
 spoonful of flour, and a little salt and mixed 
 
 spice. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and 
 make them into a paste by stirring in with them 
 the well-beaten yolks of four eggs, the white of 
 one, and a glassful of brandy. Turn the pud- 
 ding into a buttered shape which it will quite 
 fill, cover it with a cloth, plunge it into boiling 
 water, and boil quickly until done enough. 
 Turn it out carefully before serving. Time to 
 boil, about three hours. Probable cost, la. lOd., 
 exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for four o' 
 five persons. 
 
 TRIPE. 
 
 Tripe is usually prepared for dressing before 
 being offered for sale. It should be perfectly 
 fresh, thoroughly cleansed, thick, fat, and as 
 white as possible. The honeycomb is generally 
 preferred If entirely uncooked it requires to 
 be most carefully cleaned and to be gendy boiled 
 for sixteen hours or more before it can be used. 
 It may be cooked in various ways, the most usual 
 of which is to boil it till tender and serve with 
 onion sauce. 
 
 TRIPE (a la Lyonnaise). 
 
 When there is any tripe remaining from 
 the previous day, it may be sent to table again 
 prepared as follows. Take a pound of cold 
 boiled tripe, dry it well, and cut it into pieces 
 an inch square. Dissolve two ounces of butter 
 in an omelet-pan, slice a large onion into this, 
 and fry it over a gentle fire until it is tender. 
 Put the pieces of tripe with it, and also a table- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley, a table-spoonful of 
 vinegar, and a little pepper and salt. Heat all 
 gently together for a minute, and serve imme- 
 diately. Time, five or six minutes to fry the 
 tripe and onions. Probable cost, tripe, 8d. per 
 pound. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 TRIPE AND EGGS, FRICASSEED. 
 
 Take three-quarters of a pound of cold boiled 
 tripe, put it in a saucepan with just enough milk 
 to cover it, a bay-leaf, and a slice or two of 
 onion, celery, and carrot. When it boils, put 
 the tripe on a dish, cover, and keep it warm 
 over boiling water. Now strain the milk, and 
 add flour;^ butter, and seasoning to make it a 
 plain white sauce. Boil four eggs hard, quarter 
 them lengthwise, dish them up with the tripe, 
 and pour the sauce over. Cost, about Is. 6d. 
 
 TRIPE AND LIVER, FRICASSEED. 
 
 Take equal weights of tripe and liver. Fry 
 the liver in strips; cut some cold boiled tripe 
 in the same way, flour it, and fry it also. Then 
 cover with a thick brown gravy or stock. Serve 
 hot, and garnish with fried parsley and little 
 heaps of fried onions. 
 TRIPE AND ONIONS. 
 
 Have ready two pounds of boiled tripe, with 
 enough of the liquor in which it was boiled to 
 cover it. Bring it to the boil, add a pound or 
 more of onions in quarters, and cook till they 
 are tender. If very large, parboil the onions 
 separately. Add towards the end of the cooking 
 about half a pint of milk mixed with one and 
 a half ounces of flour. Boil up, cook for ten 
 minutes longer, season to taste, and serve on a 
 hot dish. The tripe should be cut up into 
 convenient pieces for serving, and the onions 
 and gravy -should be poured over it. Probable 
 cost. Is. 6d. 
 
TRI 
 
 931 
 
 TRI 
 
 TRIPE, BAKED. 
 
 Take a pound of fresh dressed white tripe. 
 Wash it in cold water, and out into neat squares. 
 Slice half a dozen onions, and fry them lightly in 
 hutter. Put them into an earthen baking-dish 
 which has a closely-fitting lid, lay the tripe upon 
 them, and sprinkle over it a large table-spoonful 
 of flour and a little pepper and salt. Cover the 
 whole with milk, put on the lid, and bake the 
 tripe in a moderate oven. When done enough, 
 skim the fat from the top, and serve the tripe on 
 a hot dish. Some cooks substitute cider for the 
 milk, and also put a table-spoonful of Indian 
 chutney with the meat before baking it. Time 
 to bake, about an hour and a half. Probable 
 coat, tripe, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for two or 
 three persons. 
 
 TRIPE, BOILEC. 
 
 Take two pounds of perfectly clean dressed 
 tripe. If there be time, soak it in milk for some 
 hours before boiling, and if it should happen 
 that the milk turns sour, the acidity which the 
 tripe will thus acquire will improve it rather 
 than otherwise. If the tripe cannot be soaked, 
 wash it in cold water, then cut it into pieces 
 about three inches long and two broad. Put 
 these into a saucepan, and cover with equal parts 
 of cold milk and water. . Let them boil, then add 
 eight moderate-sized white onions, a table-spoon- 
 ful of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of pepper- 
 corns. Cover the pan closely, and simmer the 
 tripe, gently until tender. Lift out the onions, 
 mince them finely, and press them through a 
 coarse sieve. Mix with them as much melted 
 butter made with milk instead of water as will 
 make a thick sauce, and serve the tripe on a 
 hot dish with the sauce poured over it, or, if 
 preferred, the sauce may be served separately in 
 a tureen. Some cooks flavour the sauce with 
 mustard and a little vinegar. Time to boil, 
 about two hours^ Probable cost, tripe, 8d. per 
 pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 TRIPE, CURRIED. 
 
 Mince flnely three or four large onions, put 
 them in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, 
 and fry them until they, are tender. Rub them 
 through a sieve, and mix smoothly with the pulp 
 a table-spoonful of ground rice and a table- 
 spoonful of curry-paste. Add gradually a pint 
 of stock, and stir the sauce over the fire until it 
 boils. Take two pounds of tripe already boiled 
 till tender; put it into the sauce with a little 
 more stock, let it boil gently for an hour, and 
 remove the scum carefully as it rises. Serve on 
 a hot dish, and send rice boiled as for curry to 
 table with it. Time to simmer the tripe, one 
 hour. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. 
 
 TRIPE, EGGS A LA. 
 
 Make a little roux with flour and butter ; fry, 
 in the same stewpau before the roux is made 
 brown, a few chopped onions cut square. 
 Moisten with some good boiling milk, and 
 season with pepper and salt. Let the flour and 
 onions be well done, and keep the sauce rather 
 thick. Next have ten eggs boiled hard, cut 
 them into quarters or round slices, and put them 
 into the sauce. Stir gently that the yolk may 
 not separate from the white, and serve up. 
 
 TRIPE FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 Take half a pound of fresh-dressed tripe, 
 Wash it, cut it into squares,- and remove almost 
 all the fat. Cut up half a pound of lean beef 
 in the same way, and put both into a stewpan 
 with half a pint of cold water, half a spoonful 
 of mustard, a small lump of sugar, and a little 
 salt. Bring the liquor to the boil, skim care- 
 fully, then draw the saucepan to the side, and 
 let its contents simmer gently for three hours. 
 Mix a tea-spoonful of cornflour to a smooth 
 paste with about a table-spoonful of cold water. 
 Stir this into the sauce, and boil it gently for a 
 few minutes. Put the meat on a hot dish, poui 
 the sauce over it, and serve. Time to simmer 
 the tripe, three hours. Probable cost 8d. per 
 pound. Sufficient for one person. 
 
 TRIPE, FRENCH WAY OF DRESSING. 
 
 Take one pound and a half of fresh white 
 tripe. Cut it into convenient-sized pieces, put 
 it into a stewpan with as much strong veal 
 broth as will cover it, and let it simmer gently 
 for four hours. Put two table-spoonfuls of 
 chopped mushrooms into a stewpan with a table- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley, one shallot flnely 
 minced, half a bay-leaf, and a little pepper and 
 salt. Pour over these a quarter of a pint of 
 good white sauce, and stir the mixtijre over a 
 gentle fire until the vegetables are tender. Add 
 as much veal broth as will make the sauce of 
 the consistency of melted butter, and boil it 
 gently until it is very smooth. Serve the tripe 
 in a deep dish with the sauce poured over it. 
 Time to stew the tripe, four hours. Probable 
 cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for four or flve 
 persons. 
 
 TRIPE, FRICASSEED. 
 
 Take about two pounds of fresh tripe as sold 
 by the vendors ; cut it into pieces three inches 
 long and two broad, wash these in cold water, 
 and dry them in a cloth. Put them into a stew- 
 pan, cover with equal parts of milk and water, 
 I'dd two onions and a bunch of parsley, and 
 simmer gently for an hour. Rub an ounce of 
 butter smoothly with a little flour, moisten with 
 a quarter of a pint of cream, and stir it into the 
 sauce. Add the thin rind of half a lemon, a 
 little pepper and salt, and the eighth part of a 
 nutmeg, grated ; then simmer for another hour. 
 Put the tripe into a hot dish, take the sauce 
 from the flre, stir a lump of fresh butter into it 
 until this is dissolved, and pour it over the 
 meat. In stewing the tripe be careful that it 
 does not burn to the bottom of the pan. A dish 
 of boiled rice is a suitable accornpaniment to 
 tripe prepared in this way. Time to stew, two 
 hours. Probable cost, tripe, 8d. per pound. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 TRIPE, FRIED. 
 
 The remains of cold boiled tripe are required 
 for this dish. If fresh tripe is used, it should be 
 first boiled till tender in water mixed with a 
 fourth part of vinegar, and then allowed to 
 cool. Make a little frying-batter as follows. 
 Mix three-quarters of a pound of flour with a 
 tea-spoonful of salt, and beat it till "smooth with 
 two ounces of olive-oil or oiled butter, a little 
 more than half a pint of lukewarm water, and 
 three eggs. The water should be added 
 
TRU 
 
 932 
 
 TRI 
 
 gradually, and the batter should be well beaten, 
 and afterwards set aside for an hour or two 
 before being used. Dry the tripe, and cut it 
 into neat squares. Dip the pieces separately 
 into the batter, and fry them in plenty of hot 
 fat till they are lightly browned. The batter 
 should be thick enough to coat the meat. Serve 
 the tripe on a hot dish, and sprinkle over it 
 fried onions which have been sliced and divided 
 into rings. Or, serve it on a napkin, garnish 
 with fried parsley, and send tomato or piquant 
 sauce to tablem a tureen, or a sauce prepared 
 as follows. ''SjnQft,a_dozen shallots finely, and 
 put them iniEoja sfewpan with a piece of butter 
 the size*of a small walnut, the strained juice of 
 a lemon, a tea-spoonful of scraped horse-radish, 
 a tea-Bpoonful of fresh mustard, and a little 
 salt and cayenne. Stir these ingredients over 
 a brisk fire for three or four minutes, then pour 
 over them nearly half a pint of new milk, and 
 boil the sauce for five minutes. Beat the yolk 
 of a fresh egg for a minute or two, and mix 
 with it two table - spoonfuls of thick cream. 
 Lift the sauce from the fire for a minute, and 
 stir in the mixture, then put it on the fire once 
 more, and stir again until it is on the point 
 of boiling. Pour it into a tureen, and it will 
 be ready for serving. Time, two hours to boil 
 the tripe; fifteen to twenty minutes to fry it. 
 Probable cost, tripe, 8d. per pound. 
 
 TRIPE, GERMAN MODE OF PREPARING. 
 
 Take a sufiicient quantity of tripe, blanch and 
 boil it till tender ; then cut two or three onions 
 small, and steam them till they are soft in a 
 good piece of butter. Mix a thickening of milk 
 and flour or milk and bread-crumbs to make a 
 thick sauce. Add a sprig of marjoram, a little 
 nutmeg, some white pepper, salt, and some 
 chopped parsley. Stir the preparation till it 
 boils thick and smooth. Cut the tripe into long 
 narrow strips, and simmer it a short time in the 
 sauce. 
 TRIPE, GRILLED. 
 
 Clean the tripe, simmer it very gently in 
 nicely-flavoured stock, and boil with it an onion 
 stuck with two cloves, a carrot, a bunch of 
 sweet herbs, and a little pepper and salt. When 
 it is quite tender take it up, drain it, and cut it 
 into pieces two inches square. Take equal 
 quantities of minced parsley and chives, add 
 a little pepper and salt, and make the mixture 
 into a paste with a little oiled butter or dripping 
 and lemon-juice. Dip the pieces of tripe into 
 this batter, cover them with bread-crumbs, and 
 broil over a clear fire. Send piquant sauce to 
 table with them. Time to broil, till lightly 
 browned. Probable .cost, 8d. per pound. Suf- 
 ficient, one pound of tripe for two or three 
 persons. 
 TRIPE, NORMANDY WAY OF DRESSING. 
 
 Clean, scald, and scrape one pound and a half 
 of tripe repeatedly, cut it into neat squares, 
 and put it into a stewpan with a large carrot, 
 an onion stuck with two cloves, three ounces of 
 bacon cut into dice, a bunch of parsley, a sprig 
 of thyme, a bay-leaf, and six or eight pepper- 
 corns. Add one or two ounces of fat, and cover 
 the whole with cider, white wine, or, failing 
 these, cold spring water. Let the tripe simmer 
 very gently till it is quite tender. Place it on a 
 
 dish, and pour the strained sauce over it. Time, 
 about two hours. 
 
 TRIPE PIE. 
 
 Tripe which is to be used for a pie should be 
 stewed, and allowed to jelly in the liquor in 
 which it was boiled. Line the inside of a pie- 
 dish with good pastry. Put a slice of tender 
 steak or a little undressed ham at the bottom 
 of the dish, and place upon this the tripe with 
 the jellied gravy adhering to it. Season with 
 pepper and salt, place little pieces of buttef 
 here and there on the meat, and pour in two 
 or three spoonfuls of good brown gravy. Cover 
 the dish with a good crust, and bake the pie 
 in a well-heated oven. When the pastry is 
 sufficiently cooked the pie is done. Time to 
 bake, according to size. Probable cost, tripe, 
 8d. per pound. 
 
 TRIPE, ROASTED. 
 
 Take about a pound and a half of tripe, wash, 
 and boil it in milk and water for an hour.^ Cut 
 it into two oblong pieces of equal size, spread 
 on the fat side of one piece some good veal 
 forcemeat, and lay upon it the other piece the 
 fat side inwards. Roll and skewer the tripe 
 securely, and tie it round with thin string. 
 Fasten it on the spit, put it down before a clear 
 fire, dredge with flour, and baste liberally. 
 When done enough, serve on a hot dish, and 
 garnish with sliced lemon. Send melted butter 
 to table in a tureen. Time to roast, half an 
 hour or more. Probable cost, tripe, 8d. per 
 pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 TRIPE, STEWED IN ITS OWN JELLY (BifTning- 
 ham way). 
 Take some clean, fat, white tripe. Throw 
 it into boiling water for ten minutes, drain and 
 dry it, and cut it into pieces. Roll these up 
 neatly, and tie them round with thin string. 
 Put them into an earthen jar which has a 
 closely-fitting lid, and put with them a knuckle 
 of veal or a calf's foot, and a little salt and 
 pepper. Place the lid on the jar, and put it in 
 a large pan of boiling water, keep it boiling, 
 and add more water when required. When the 
 meat is done enough, lift out the jar without dis- 
 turbing the contents, and put it in a cool place. 
 The tripe should remain in its own jelly until 
 wanted, when it may be taken out and dressed 
 in various ways. It willkeep for three or four 
 days. Time to stew, eight hours or more. 
 Probable cost, tripe, 8d. per pound. 
 
 TRIPE, STEWED, WITH BACON. 
 
 Take two pounds of fresh white tripe, half a 
 pound of bacon, aud a calf's foot. Cut the tripe 
 into pieces three inches square, and scald these 
 in boiling water for five minutes. Bone the 
 foot, scald it for ten minutes, and cut it into 
 six or eight pieces. Divide the bacon also into 
 pieces convenient for serving. Put the meat 
 into a stewpan with a large bunch of parsley, a 
 sprig of thyme, two bay-leaves, three large 
 onions, two cloves, and a little pepper and salt, 
 and pour in as much broth as will cover the 
 whole. A glassful of brandy may be added or 
 not, as preferred. Cover the saucepan closely, 
 let its contents boil, then draw it to the side, 
 and let them simmer very gently until the meat 
 is done enough. Take out the herbs, skim the 
 
TRI 
 
 933 
 
 TRO 
 
 sauce carefully, and serve the stewed meat in 
 a tureen, with the sauce poured over it. Send 
 it to table as hot as possible. Time to stew, 
 three hours. Probable cost, 3s. 6d., exclusive 
 of the Wandy. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 TRIPE, WITH TOMATOES AND SPINACH. 
 
 Take two pounds of boiled tripe cut into 
 pieces ready for serving. Press the contents of 
 a quart tin of tomatoes through a colander into 
 a saucepan ; add salt and pepper after the pulp 
 has boiled up; squeeze in the juice of half a 
 lemon, and add a Spanish onion, first chopped 
 very small and scalded. Boil for ten minutes. 
 Then thicken with an ounce of fiour and butter, 
 lay in the •tripe, and in a quarter of an hour or 
 so serve it, with some plainly-cooked spinach in 
 little heaps round the dish. A poached egg 
 may be laid upon each bed of spinach, with 
 little rolls of fried bacon in between each bed. 
 Probable cost, 2b. 4d. 
 
 TROTTERS, SHEEP'S. 
 
 Take six or eight sheep's feet. Eemove the 
 wool, and singe them, then throw them into 
 fast-boiling water, let them boil quickly for five 
 minutes, drain them, and let them cool. Take 
 the foot firmly in the left hand, give the bone 
 a jerk with the right hand, and draw it out. 
 Cut the hoof from the end of the foot, and put 
 the feet into cold water. Let them boil, then 
 simmer them as gently as possible until they 
 are quite tender. Fill them with good veal 
 forcemeat, and bind the feet with packthread 
 to keep them in shape. Put them into a stew- 
 pan with as much of the liquor in which they 
 were boiled as will cover them, an onion, and a 
 bunch of sweet herbs. Boil them gently for half 
 an hour, lifit them out, aud lay them on a dish. 
 Strain the sauce, boil it down to glaze, and 
 brush this_^ over the feet. The trotters may be 
 accompanied by tomato sauce, Eobert sauce, or 
 piquant sauce, and any stewed vegetables, or 
 they may be eaten cold with oil and vinegar. 
 Time to boil the trotters, three or four hours. 
 Sufficient, three or four for a small dish. (See 
 also MtTTTON Tbottebs.) 
 
 TROTTERS, SHEEP'S, FRIED. 
 
 Stuff and stew the trotters as above. Make 
 a frying-batter as follows. Mix a pinch of salt 
 with five ounces of flour, and mix smoothly with 
 this a quarter of a pint of water. Beat the 
 yolks of two eggs with two table-spoonfuls of 
 olive oil or oiled butter and add this mixture 
 to the batter. Put it in a cool place for an 
 hour or two, and a few minutes before it is 
 wanted stir in the well-whisked whites of the 
 eggs. Dip the trotters into the batter, and 
 then fry in plenty of hot fat till they are lightly 
 browned. Serve on a hot dish, and send tomato 
 or Eobert sauce to table with them. Time to 
 fry, a few minutes. 
 
 TROTTERS, SHEEP'S, MARINADED. 
 
 Bone and boil the trotters till tender, accord- 
 ing to the directions already given, and press 
 them between two dishes till cold. Cut them 
 into neat slices, and lay them in a marinade 
 made with two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, a 
 table-spoonful of oil, and a little pepper and 
 salt. Let them lie in this for an hour, place 
 them on a sieve, and drain for twenty minutes. 
 
 Dip the pieces separately in batter, and fry 
 them as in the last recipe. Time to boil, three 
 hours and a half; to fry, a few minutes. (See 
 also Sheep's Tbottbbs, Marinaded.) 
 
 TROUT. 
 
 There are two or three kinds of trout — com- 
 mon trout, sea trout, and white trout. The sea 
 trout reaches a good size, but the white trout 
 never does. Eiver-.trout is a most delicious 
 fish, highly esteemed by epicures. It is seldom 
 met with of a large size, and those are most 
 delicate in flavour which ■(♦■eigh from three- 
 quarters of a pound to one pound. The female 
 fish is considered better than~tlie'male. It may 
 be known by its body beiM deeper and its head 
 smaller than the other. Trout may be dressed 
 in various ways, amongst which boiling is the 
 last to be recommended, as they are then rather 
 insipid in flavour. Trout are in season from 
 May to September, and is in perfection in 
 June. 
 
 TROUT AND ANCHOVIES. 
 
 This is really a trout salad, for which fried 
 trout are generally used. 
 
 The trout, when fried, should be left 
 on blotting paper until cold; better still, be- 
 tween two sheets of it. They may be divided 
 as desired for a large dish, but they are some- 
 times served whole in the centre, with a thick 
 salad dressing poured over and lettuce hearts 
 put round; these are sprinkled wifii cress, 
 chervil, or other small salad herbs,- 6i chives 
 are cut up and put about the dish. - Large 
 lettuces should be quartered. The salad should 
 be mixed with hard eggs and anchovies. A 
 very simple dressing is liked by some, the 
 contents of the cruet supplying all that is 
 necessary. 
 
 Cost, variable. 
 
 TROUT (A I'AuroreV 
 
 Take two moderate-sized trout, empty them, 
 remove the gills and fins, scrape off the scales, 
 then wash carefully, and wipe them dry. Put 
 into the kettle as much water as will cover the 
 fish, and with each quart put a table-spoonful 
 of salt and a table-spoonful of Vinegar. Put 
 the trout into the water when it is boiling, and 
 boil gently : when the eyes start the fish are 
 done. 
 
 Lift them out carefully, drain them, place 
 them in a hot dish, and cover entirely with 
 a sauce prepared as follows. Beat the yolks 
 of three eggs thoroughly, and mix with 
 them a quarter of a pint of white sauce, an 
 ounce of grated Parmesan, a tea-spoonful of 
 chilli vinegar, and a tea-spoonful of anchovy 
 essence. 
 
 Stir the sauce over a gentle fire until it 
 begins to thicken; it is then ready. Boil 
 two eggs till hard, mince them finely, mix a 
 table-spoonful of grated Parmesan with them, 
 and sprinkle the mixture over the fish. Put 
 them in the oven for about a quarter of an hour 
 till hot through, brown the surface with a 
 salamander or red-hot shovel, then pour a little 
 shrimp, tomato, or lobster sauce round the fish, 
 and serve them very hot. 
 
 Time for a trout which weighs about 
 a pound, ten or twelve minutes to boil. 
 
TRO 
 
 934 
 
 TRO 
 
 large trout, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 
 uncertain. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 TROUT (a la Genevese). 
 
 Take two moderate-sized trout, clean care- 
 fully, and wipe them dry. Dissolve a quarter 
 of a pound of fresh butter in a stewpan, and 
 put with it a small onion stuck with a clove, 
 a small bunch of parsley, and a sprig of thyme, 
 a salt-spoonful of salt, and half a salt-spoonful 
 of white pepper. Mix thoroughly, and add half 
 a pint of sherry or Madeira. Simmer the trout 
 very gently till the eyes start. Pour off the 
 liquor, leaving only sufficient to keep the fish 
 moist, thicken with flour and butter, let it boil 
 up, then serve the fish on a hot dish with part 
 of the sauce poured over it and the rest in a 
 tureen. If this dish is considered too extrava- 
 gant, the fish may be boiled in stock flavoured 
 with sherry, then thickened with flour and 
 butter, and flavoured with the strained juice 
 of a lemon, a tea-spoonful of anchovy essence, 
 and a little salt and cayenne. Time, ten minutes 
 or more, according to size. Probable cost, very 
 uncertain. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 TROUT, BAKED. 
 
 Clean and dry the fish, and season them 
 inside and out with a little salt and cayenne and 
 a pinch of powdered mace if liked. Put them 
 in a baking-dish, and lay little pieces of butter 
 here and there upon them. Baste occasionally 
 with the liquor that collects in the pan. Baked 
 trout may be served hot or cold. If served 
 hot, the.'Sh gravy should be mixed with a little 
 good melted butter, and sent to table in a 
 tureen. When it is a convenience, several trout 
 may be baked together. They should be put 
 into the dish in layers, and a little seasoning, 
 chopped parsley, and butter should be placed 
 between each layer. The trout are done enough 
 when the flesh leaves the bone easily. 
 TROUT, BAKED (another way). 
 
 Wash, empty, and dry three or four small 
 trout, split them open, and remove the bones. 
 Lay three or four thin slices of fat bacon at 
 the bottom of a baking-dish, lay the trout upon 
 these, skin uppermost, and sprinkle a little 
 pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and chopped pars- 
 ley over them. Bake in a quick oven, and, serve 
 very hot. Time to bake, half an hour. Suf- 
 ficient for three or four persons. 
 
 TROUT, BAKED (M. Ude's recipe). 
 
 Having emptied and scaled the trout, put 
 a well-seasoned stuffing inside, then turn it 
 round with its tail fixed in its mouth. Put the 
 fish in a small quantity of marinade, so that it 
 may not burn in the oven. Baste frequently, 
 and let it be made a fine colour. When it is 
 done reduce the liquor in which the trout has 
 been baked, put in a good lump of fresh butter 
 kneaded with flour,, with a little essence of 
 anchovies, a few flne capers, salt, and pepper, 
 if the sauce is not sufficiently seasoned ; but be 
 careful when you use anchovies not to use too 
 much salt. Then squeeze in the juice of a 
 lemon, drain the flsh, send it up to table with 
 the sauce under it, but without covering the fish. 
 
 TROUT, BOILED. 
 
 Clean, empty, and dry the fish, and put them 
 into fast-boiling water, to each quart of which 
 
 a dessert-spoonful of salt and a dessert-spoonful 
 of vinegar have been added. Remove the scum 
 as it rises, and boil the fish until the eyes start. 
 Drain the trout, and lift them out carefully 
 not to break the skin, serve on a hot napkin, 
 and garnish with parsley or lemon. Send melted 
 butter, shrimp sauce, anchovy sauce, or Dutch 
 sauce to table in a tureen. The great angler, 
 Izaak Walton, recommends that trout should 
 be boiled in a mixture of beer, vinegar, and 
 water, in which the rind of a lemon, and a little 
 rosemary, thyme, winter savory, and horse- 
 radish has been boiled. Time, a trout weighing 
 one pound, from ten to twelve minutes' boiling ; 
 two pounds, fifteen minutes; three pounds, 
 twenty minutes. 
 
 TROUT, BOILED, PLAIN (M. Ude's way). 
 
 After having emptied, scaled, and washed 
 the fish, have some boiling water ready, into 
 which put the trout with a good handful of salt 
 only, but no vinegar, as it spoils the colour of 
 the fish. When it is done, drain it well, and 
 serve it up on a clean cloth garnished with 
 parsley. Send up lobster sauce separately in a 
 boat, or Dutch sauce. The length of time it 
 should boil is left to the judgment of the cook; 
 the size determines the time. But keep in 
 mind that when the fish remains long in the 
 water it loses its flavour and c[uality; for this 
 reason take care to boil it precisely at the time 
 it is wanted. 
 
 TROUT, BROILED. 
 
 Choose some moderate-sized trout; empty, 
 wash, and dry them, split each fish down 
 the back, and, without injuring it, spread it 
 open on a dish. Season with salt and cayenne, 
 and a little lemon-juice, and brush tjiem well aU ' 
 over with oil or clariAed butter. Broil over a 
 clear fire, turning and basting them with butter 
 every now and then. Serve on a hot dish, and 
 send parsley, mushroom, or piquant sauo'. to 
 table m a tureen. Some cooks split the trout 
 open, rub them all over with salt, let them 
 lie two or three hours, then hang them up till 
 wanted, or for eight or ten hours before broiling 
 them. Time to broil, five minutes or more, 
 according to size. 
 
 TROUT, CHOOSING OF. 
 
 The female ish is considered the best. It 
 may be known by its head being smaller and its 
 body deeper than that ol the male. When trout 
 is fresh, the skin is most beautiful in appear- 
 ance, silvery and golden tints intermingling, the 
 eyes are bright, the gills red, and the body firm. 
 The most delicate trout are those which weigh 
 about a pound. The fish is in season from 
 May to September. 
 
 TROUT, COLLARED. 
 
 Wash, empty, and dry the trout. Cut off the 
 heads, split the fish open, and take out the 
 bones. Sprinkle a little pepper, salt, and pow- 
 dered mace over the inside of each trout, roll 
 up separately, and tie with a little cotton. Lay 
 the fish side by side in a baking-dish, pour over 
 them equal parts of beer and vinegar sufficient 
 to cover them, and put two or three bay-leaves, 
 and a dozen peppercorns or more into the liquor. 
 Tie a sheet of buttered paper over the dish, and 
 bake the trout in = moderate oven. When 
 
TRO 
 
 935 
 
 TRO 
 
 they are half done, turn them over that they 
 may be equally cooked all through, and baste 
 them once or twice with the liquor. Time to 
 bake, one hour. 
 
 TROUT, FILLETED. ' 
 
 Clean and dry the trout, and raise the flesh 
 from the bones by passing a sharp knife close 
 to the spine. Divide the flesh into neat pieces 
 convenient for serving, dip these into beaten 
 egg, and afterwards roll them in bread-crumbs, 
 and fry them in hot fat till they are lightly 
 browned. Drain on blotting-paper before the 
 fire for five or six minutes, and then serve on a 
 hot dish. Garnish the dish with shrimps, 
 prawns, parsley, or lemon, and send shrimp 
 sauce, anchovy_ sauce, tomato sauce, or tartar 
 sauce to table in a tureen. Time to fry," about 
 eight or ten minutes. 
 TROUT, FRIED. 
 
 Empty, clean, and dry the fish thoroughly, 
 cut off the fins and gills, but leave the heads on. 
 Rub them over with flour, and fry them in 
 plenty of hot fat. When they are brown on one 
 side, turn them carefully upon the other. Lift 
 them out, and drain them on blotting-paper 
 before the fire. Serve on a hot napkin, garnish 
 with parsley, and send plain melted butter or 
 any other suitable sauce to table with them. If 
 liked, the flour may be dusted off, and the trout 
 may afterwards be dipped in beaten egg, 
 covered with bread-crumbs, and fried as before. 
 This is a favourite way of dressing trout. Time 
 to fry, six to ten minutes, according to size. 
 Sufficient, three or four trout for a dish. 
 
 TROUT, IN JELLY. 
 
 Wash the fish carefully, and form tKem into 
 rings with their tails in their mouths. Boil 
 water with a little vinegar, salt, a shallot, or 
 clove of garlic, and any approved seasoning. 
 Set it aside to cool, and when cold lay in the 
 fish, and simmer for a few minutes after the 
 water has just come to the boil. Lift the fish 
 out carefully, drain them, and baste with clear 
 fish jelly. When the fish basting has set lay 
 on another coat, until the fish are nicely covered. 
 Arrange and garnish to taste. 
 
 TROUT, PICKLED. 
 
 Take the remains of cold boiled or stewed 
 trout. Eemove the skin and bones, divide the 
 flesh into neat pieces, put these into a deep dish, 
 and strain over them a pickle prepared as 
 follows. Mince three moderate-sized onions, 
 and put them into a stewpan with a piece of 
 butter the size of an egg, a chopped turnip, a 
 bunch of parsley, a, sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, 
 a dessert-spoonful of salt, and a tea-spoonful of 
 white pepper. Stir these ingredients over a 
 gentle fire for five minutes; pour over them a 
 pint of vinegar and a pint of boiliilg water. 
 Let the liquor boil for twenty minutes, and it 
 will be ready for use. Trout thus pickled will 
 keep three or four days, and the same pickle 
 may be used three or four times if it is freshly 
 boiled when required. 
 
 TROUT, POTTED. 
 
 Take six or eight moderate-sized fresh fish ; 
 scrape them, empty them, cut off the fins and 
 heads, split them open, and remove the back- 
 bones. Mix three tea-spoonfuls of salt with an 
 
 equal quantity of white pepper and a tea-spoon^ 
 ful of powdered mace, or half a nutmeg,' grated. 
 Rub a, portion of this seasoning into the insides 
 of the fish, close them; and place then! in layers 
 head to tail in a deep baking-dish, put little 
 pieces of butter between the layers and on the 
 top, and bake in a moderate oven. As soon as 
 they are done enough, drain off the liquor in 
 the pan, and lay the trout full-length in a 
 potting-jar. When cold, cover them a quarter 
 of an inch thick with clarified butter just be- 
 ginning to stiffen, and set them in a cool place 
 till wanted. Time to bake, about three-quarters 
 of an hour. {See also Gbilse oe Tkotjt, to Pot.) 
 
 TROUT, POTTED (another way). 
 
 Take six or eight fresh trout, cut off-the heads, 
 fins, and tails, empty the fish, split open 
 and bone them. Lay them, backs uppermost, 
 in a dish, and press them together. Tie the 
 following spices in muslin. Half a tea-spoonful 
 of peppercorns, a tea-spoonful of ginger, three 
 salt-spoonfuls of salt, two bay-leaves, two 
 cloves, three allspice, and a pinch of cayenne. 
 Lay this bag upon the fish, with half a pound or 
 more of good butter broken into pieces. Cover 
 the dish closely, and put it into a gentle oven. 
 When the fish are done enough, lift out the bag 
 of seasoning, and set the trout in a cool airy 
 place till wanted. Time to bake, an hour and 
 a half. 
 
 TROUT, SALMON, 
 
 This, called also the sea trout, appears to 
 form a connecting-link between the salmon and 
 the common trout. Like the salmon, it fre- 
 quents both the sea and rivers, ascending the 
 latter to spawn. It is for the most part found 
 in the rivers of mountainous countries, and is 
 common in Wales and the Lake District of Eng- 
 land. It seldom exceeds a foot in length, and 
 is a very delicious fish. {See also Salmon Teout.) 
 
 TROUT, SAUCES FOR. 
 
 Any of the following sauces may be served 
 with boiled trout. Plain melted butter, anchovy 
 sauce, shrimp sauce, parsley sauce, .Dutch sauce, 
 ravigote sauce, or a sauce prepared thus. Boil 
 half a pint of melted butter with two table- 
 spoonfuls of thick cream. Mix the yolk of an 
 egg with another table-spoonful of cream, and 
 stir the thickening into the sauce, first letting 
 it cool for one minute ; add the juice of a lemon 
 and a pinch of salt, and stir the sauce over the 
 fire until it is on the point of boiling. Lift it 
 off, and stir into it an ounce of fresh butter 
 until it is dissolved. Serve the sauce in a 
 tureen or poured over the fish. Or bone and 
 skin an anchovy, and pound the flesh in a 
 mortar with a table-spoonful of chopped pars- 
 ley, a table-spoonful of chopped chives, or a 
 minced shallot, a table-spoonful of capers, a 
 dessert-spoonful of flour, and a piece of butter 
 the size of an egg. When the mixture is quite 
 smooth, stir it into a pint of the liquor in which 
 the fish was boiled. Let it boil a minute or 
 two, and send it to table in a, tureen. Fried 
 trout is very good served cold and accompanied 
 by salad sauce. 
 
 TROUT, SOUCHET. 
 
 Clean and empty five or six small trout, and 
 dry them well. Cut four parsley roots into 
 
TRO 
 
 936 
 
 TRU 
 
 strips an inch long and very narrow, and boil 
 these in a pint and a half of water, together 
 with a tea-spoonful of salt and a tea-spoonful 
 of finely-scraped horse-radish. In five minutes 
 throw in a handful of small sprigs of parsley. 
 Let the water boil up again, put in the trout, 
 draw the pan back immediately, and simmer 
 the fish gently until done enough. Serve the 
 fish in a deep dish with the water, parsley, etc., 
 and send slices of thin brown bread and butter 
 to table with it. Time to boil the fish, ten or 
 twelve minutes. Probable cost, uncertain. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 TROUT, STEWED. 
 
 Take two moderate-sized trout, empty, wash, 
 and dry them well. Put them in a stewpan, 
 and pour over them as much stock as will barely 
 cover them, and a glassful of port or claret, 
 then add a small onion finely minced, a bunch 
 of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, two 
 cloves, a pinch of powdered mace, and a little 
 pepper and salt. Let them simmer very gently 
 until the fish are done enough. Lift them out 
 carefully, and put them on a hot dish. Strain 
 the gravy, thicken it with a tea-spoonful of 
 brown thickening or with a little flour and 
 butter, stir it over the fire till it coats the spoon, 
 pour it over the fish, and serve very hot. Time 
 to stew the fish, half an hour to three-quarters, 
 according, to size. Sufficient for two persons. 
 
 TROUT, STEWED (another way). 
 
 Empty, clean, and dry one large (or two 
 moderate-sized) trout, and partially fry in hot 
 butter till it is lightly browned. Pour over it 
 as much good stock as will barely cover it, and 
 add a bunch of parsley, a bay-leaf, a roll of 
 thin lemon-rind, a finely-minced shallot, and 
 a little pepper and salt. Let it simmer very 
 gently until done enough. Place it on a hot 
 dish, thicken the gravy with a tea-spoonful of 
 brown thickening, boil it till of the proper 
 consistency, and strain it over the fish. A glass- 
 ful of port or claret or a tea-spoonful of lemon- 
 juice may be added or not. Time to simmer the 
 fish, half an hour to three-quarters, according 
 to size. Sufficient for two persons. 
 
 TROUT, STEWED IN WINE. 
 
 Empty, clean, and dry two or three fresh 
 trout; put them in a stewpan, pour over 
 them equal parts of good gravy and either 
 claret, port, or Madeira, and add a moderate- 
 sized onion, half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, 
 six allspice, two cloves, and a, little salt. Let 
 them simmer gently until done enough. Take 
 them up carefully, strain the gravy, thicken it 
 with brown thickening, and flavour with a tea- 
 spoonful of lemon-juice or chilli vinegar, a 
 tea-spoonful of anchovy essence, and a dessert- 
 spoonful of mushroom ketchup. Strain the 
 sauce over the fish, and serve very hot. Time 
 to simmer, half an hour to three-quarters, ac- 
 cording to the thickness of the fish. Sufficient 
 for a small dish. 
 
 TROUT, WAYSIDE INN, 
 
 Clean and empty the trout, dry them, and 
 boil them until done enough. Lift them out 
 carefully so as not to break them, put them 
 upon a hot dish without a napkin, and cover 
 them entirely with rich melted butter. Sprinkle 
 
 a, table-spoonful of chopped gherkins over the 
 sauce, and garnish the dish with parsley and 
 sliced lemon. Time to simmer the fish, ten to 
 twenty minutes, according to size. 
 
 TROUT, WITH GENOESE* SAUCE. 
 
 Empty, clean, and dry two moderate-sized 
 fresh trout, and put them into a kettle of boil- 
 ing water with a table-spoonful of salt and a 
 table-spooiiful of vinegar. Boil the fish gently 
 until they are done enough, then lift them up 
 carefully, and pour over them some sauce pre- 
 pared as follows. Thicken a pint of good stock 
 with a dessert-spoonful of brown thickening, 
 and boil it till it is smooth and coats the spoon. 
 Put with it a glassful of claret or port, a tea- 
 spoonful of essence of anchovy, a table-spoon- 
 ful of mushroom ketchup, a dessert-spoonful of 
 chopped parsley, the eighth of a nutmeg, grated, 
 a small lump of sugar, and pepper and salt if 
 required. Stir the sauce over the fire for five or 
 six minutes, take it off, and stir into it a piece 
 of fresh butter the size of a walnut, until it is 
 dissolved. Pour the sauce over the trout, and 
 serve immediately. Time to boil, according to 
 size. The fish is done enough when the eyes 
 start. Sufficient for two persons. Half this 
 quantity of sauce may be made, but the pro- 
 portions should be maintained. 
 TROUT, WITH GREEN PEAS. 
 
 Clean and empty two moderate-sized fresh 
 trout, cut off the gills and fins, but leave the 
 heads on. Dry them; then roll in flour, and 
 fry in boiling fat, browning them on both sides. 
 Lift out carefully without breaking them, drain 
 on blotting paper ; then arrange the green 
 peas in a shallow dish, lay the trout on them, 
 and send plain melted butter to table with 
 them. The peas should be cooked as follows : 
 Take the outside leaves of some lettuces, and 
 lay at the bottom of a saucepan; then pu*^ 
 the peas on these, and gradually bring them 
 to the boil. The juice from the lettuce leaves 
 is sufficient to cook the peas, an(J it gives them 
 a delicious flavour. 
 
 Cook over a slow fire. Add a few small 
 pieces of butter to the peas before laying the 
 trout on them. 
 
 Cost, variable. 
 
 TRUFFLE. 
 
 The truffle is a kind of mushroom without 
 roots, which is found at a considerable depth 
 underground, principally in oak forests. As 
 there is nothing on the surface to indicate their 
 presence underneath, pigs and dogs are em- 
 ployed to find them out, and when they begin 
 to scratch the ground the men who are with 
 them dig until the truffles are found. There are 
 three kinds — black, red, and white, and the 
 difference arises from the different degrees of 
 ripeness to which the truffle has attained. The 
 black being the ripest are the best. Truffles 
 grov/ on the Continent much more abundantly 
 than they do in England. Perigord, in the 
 South of Prance, is celebrated for them. 
 
 Truffles are seldom eaten alone, but are used 
 for flavouring pies, ragouts, and sauces, for 
 stuffing poultry, and for garnishing dishes. 
 
 When they are good, truffles have a 
 most agreeable aroma, and are light and 
 
TRU 
 
 937 
 
 TRU 
 
 elastic. They are best when fresh, and lose 
 much of their flavour when preserved. They 
 are almost extravagantly esteemed by epicures, 
 and are very expensive. Those who have ac- 
 quired the taste regard the truffle as the best of 
 edible substances. They are in season from 
 October to January, though bottled truffles may 
 be bought at the Italian warehouses at any time. 
 Probable cost, fresh truffles, 6s. to 18s. per 
 pound; bottled truffles. Is. lOd. for a small 
 bottle. 
 
 TRUFFLE PUREE. 
 
 Wash, brush, and peel half a pound of fresh 
 truffles. Pound them with an ounce of butter 
 and press them through a hair sieve. Put them 
 into a Btewpan with half a pint of good brown 
 sauce, and let them boil for ten minutes. Just 
 before serving the puree, dissolve an ounce of 
 glaze and an. ounce of butter in it, and, if ob- 
 tainable, add to it two table-spoonfuls of essence 
 ■of truffles. Time to boil, ten minutes. 
 
 TRUFFLE SAUCE. 
 
 Clean and peel four truffles, and cut them into 
 squares of a quarter of an inch each way. Put 
 them into a stewpan with half a pint of good 
 brown sauce, and stir over a gentle fire for ten 
 minutes. Add a glassful of sherry, and, if liked, 
 a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice, and 
 serve. Time, ten minutes to boil the sauce. 
 Probable cost, fresh truffles, from Gs. to 18s. a 
 pound; bottled truffles. Is. lOd. for a small 
 bottle. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 TRUFFLE SAUCE (another way). 
 
 Wash half a dozen truffles, and peel them, slice 
 them, and lay them in a stewpan with one or two 
 shallots or a little onion and parsley, a piece 
 of butter, some salt, and a glassful of wine. Let 
 the truffles stew, closely covered, till reduced and 
 soft, then add enough gravy and water or broth, 
 some flour thickening, and a little grated ginger. 
 Boil the sauce again for ten minutes, and skim 
 off the fat. 
 
 TRUFFLE SAUCE (another way). 
 
 Take half a pound of well-cleaned and peeled 
 truffles. Put them into a stewpan with as much 
 brown gravy as will cover them, and put with 
 them a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, 
 a shallot, and an ounce of butter. Let them 
 simmer very gently until tender, and when they 
 are half done put a glassful of sherry into the 
 sauce. Take them out, drain them, and cut 
 them into thin slices. Strain the gravy, thicken 
 it with a little brown thickening, heat the slices 
 in the sauce, and serve very hot. Time to boil 
 the truffles, about one hour. 
 TRUFFLES (k la Serviette). 
 
 Wash the truffles in several waters, brush 
 them thoroughly to free them from earth and 
 g^it, and drain them. Line a stewpan with thin 
 slices of fat bacon, put in the truffles, cover with 
 lich veal gravy, and add a bunch of parsley, 
 a sprig of thyme, two bay-leaves, five or six 
 ■cloves, a bunch of small onions, and three or 
 four sticks of celery, with a glassful of wine or 
 not. Simmer the truffles gently^ until done 
 enough, and let them get cold inTthe liquor. 
 When wanted for table heat them again, drain 
 them well, and dish them in a folded napkin. 
 Truffles a la Serviette are usually sent to table 
 
 with a little cold butter on a separate dish, and 
 without sauce. Time to simmer, half to three- 
 quarters of an hour. 
 TRUFFLES (k I'ltalienne). 
 
 Cleanse well, dry, and pare ten truffles, and 
 cut them into thin slices. Put these into a 
 small frying-pan with an ounce of fresh butter, 
 a minced shallot, a table-spoonful of chopped 
 parsley, and a little pepper and salt. Stir over 
 a gentle fire till they are done enough, which 
 will be in about ten minutes, then pour off part 
 of the butter, and add an ounce of fresh butter, 
 two table-spoonfuls of thick brown gravy, with a 
 little cayenne, and the juice of half a lemon. Stir 
 the mixture over the fire until it is on the point 
 of boiling, and serve very hot. Time, alto- 
 gether, about twenty minutes. 
 
 TRUFFLES (k I'ltalienne), another way. 
 
 Cleanse thoroughly, dry, and pare eight 
 truffles, cut them into thin slices, and put them 
 into a baking-dish with a quarter of a pint of 
 Lucca oil, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, a 
 pinch of powdered thyme, another of powdered 
 mace, and a little pepper and salt. Let them 
 bake gently nearly an hour, squeeze the strained 
 juice of half a lemon over them, and serve very 
 hot. If liked, a clove of garlic may be minced 
 and put with them. Time to bake, one hour. 
 
 TRUFFLES AU CHAMPAGNE. 
 
 On the subject of truffles prepared in this 
 way, the late Alexandre Dumas' " Dictionnaire 
 Gastronomique " waxes enthusiastic. " What," 
 it says, " can be more exhilarating, more divine 
 than truffles au Champagne? Take a, pound 
 of truffles, pour a bottle of Ai Mousseux into a 
 saucepan ; throw in the truffles, together with a 
 little salt, and let them boil in the wine for half 
 an hour; then serve them hot on a snow-white 
 napkin. Who could resist the power of this 
 composition, which charms the palate and 
 tickles the fancy? How its enchanting aroma 
 caresses, flatters, and rejoices ! " 
 
 TRUFFLES, BOTTLED. 
 
 Soak the truffles for an hour or two in fresh 
 water, wash them well in several waters, brush 
 them until they are quite clean, and pare them. 
 Put them into wide-mouthed and perfectly dry 
 bottles, and put in each bottle a sprig of thyme, 
 a large pinch of salt, and a t&ble-spoonful of 
 cold water. Cork the bottles closely, and tie 
 them down securely. Wrap a wisp of hay round 
 them to keep them from cracking, put them side 
 by side in a large stewpan, and pour in sufficient 
 cold water to reach up to their necks. Bring 
 the liquor to the boil, then draw the saucepan 
 to the side, and^ keep it simmering gently for 
 half an hour. Let the bottles remain untouched 
 till they are cold, wax the corks, and store the 
 truffles in a cool place. As English truffles are 
 much cheaper than French ones, it is good 
 economy to bottle them when they are in 
 season for future use. Care should be taken to 
 smell them before bottling, and to reject any 
 that are in the least musty. They are best 
 in December and January. Time to boil the 
 truffles, half an hour. 
 
 TRUFFLES, BUISSON OF. 
 
 Choose as many larpfe round truffles as may be 
 required, cleanse thpm thoroughly, stew them as 
 
TRU 
 
 938 
 
 TSC 
 
 for Tbttpfles k la Sebviette, and let them cool 
 in the liquor. Take a stale quartern loaf, cut 
 off the crustj and carve the crumb to an oval 
 shape. Place this upon a white napkin on a 
 dish, cover with parsley, and stick about a dozen 
 of the truffles all round it with silver skewers. 
 Pile the rest on the top, and serve. Time to 
 stew the truffles, nearly an hour. 
 
 TRUFFLES, FOR GARNISH. 
 
 Truffles which are to be used for garnishing 
 various dishes may either be cleaned, pared, 
 and boiled whole, then left to cool in their 
 liquor, or they may be cut up into slices before 
 being boiled. It should be remembered that 
 the Uquor in which they are boiled will be ex- 
 cellent for sauce, and that if well cleaned the 
 parings may'be stewed to flavour sauces. Many 
 cooks boil the truffles whole, and afterwards cut 
 them up into different shapes before using them 
 for garnishing. Time to boil moderate-sized 
 truffles for garnish, about a quarter of an hour. 
 {See also Gaenish, Tbuefles foe.) 
 
 TRUFFLES, IN MADEIRA. 
 
 Take a dozen fine fresh truffles, wash and 
 brush them well. Put them in a saucepan with 
 enough Madeira to cover them, a couple of 
 cloves, a pinch of cayenne and mignonette 
 pepper, and a little salt, and cook until tender. 
 Then add half an ounce of glaze, and take the 
 truffles out and keep them hot while the wine 
 is boiled quickly for a few minutes. Add an 
 ounce of butter, pour the whole over the truffles, 
 and serve at once. Cost, variable. 
 
 TRUFFLES, POTTED. 
 
 Wash, brush, peel, and slice six ounces of 
 fresh truffles. Dissolve a pound of fresh 
 butter; skim it carefully, pour it into a basin, 
 and let it stand two or three minutes, then pour 
 the pure oiled part away from the thick milky 
 substance which will have settled at the bottom. 
 Put the sliced truffles into a delicately-clean 
 stewpan, and pour the butter gently over them. 
 Let it stand until it is set, then put the sauce- 
 pan on a slow fire, and stew the truffles very 
 gently until they are tender. Lift them into 
 dry preserving-jars, cover them with the butter, 
 and store them in a cool and perfectly dry place. 
 They will keep for months, and will be a most 
 acceptable addition to the breakfast or luncheon 
 table. The butter which remains after the 
 truffles are thoroughly covered, so as to exclude 
 the air, may be pott.ed separately, and may be 
 used for flavouring sauces and various delicate 
 preparations. Time to stew the truffles, twenty 
 minutes, or more. 
 
 TRUFFLES, STEWED IN CHAMPAGNE. 
 
 Take ten or twelve large truffles, soak them 
 for a couple of hours, rinse them in several 
 waters, and scrub them thoroughly. Lay a 
 thin slice of fat bacon at the bottom of a stew- 
 pan, put in the truffles, and add half a tea- 
 spooniul of salt, and a little grated nutmeg, 
 and, if liked, a carrot, a turnip, a bunch of 
 green onions, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of 
 thyme, a bay-leaf, two or three cloves, and a 
 blade of mace. Pour over the truffles a little 
 good veal stock, let them simmer half an hour, 
 then add a bottle of dry champagne, and simmer 
 for another half hour, keeping them very closely 
 
 covered. They may either be drained, dried, 
 and served cold in a silver dish, or on a dish 
 covered with a napkin, with the sauce served 
 cold in a tureen, or they may be heated and 
 served hot, with the liquor, strained and con- 
 siderably reduced, poured over them. Time to 
 stew the truffles, one hour. 
 
 TRUFFLES, TIMBALE OF. 
 
 Line a plain round mould with good puff- 
 paste. Take six or eight large fresh truffles; 
 wash and brush them thoroughly, and cut them 
 into thin slices. Put these into a small frying- 
 pan with two ounces of fresh butter, and a little 
 pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, shake them 
 over a brisk fire, and be careful not to break 
 them. Drain them, and put them into the 
 mould, place the cover on the top, make a hole 
 in the centre for the steam to escape, and bake 
 in a hot oven. When the pastry is done enough, 
 fill up the hole, and turn the timbale on a 
 dish. Make an opening in the top, and pour in 
 a'small quantity of good gravy, then lay a slice 
 of truffle in the opening, and serve. Time to 
 fry the sliced truffle, five or six minutes. 
 
 TRUFFLES, TO PREPARE FOR USE. 
 
 Soak the truffles for one or two hours in cold 
 water, or, if necessary, in lukewarm water, to 
 loosen the earth from them. Einse them well 
 several times, and brush them carefully, until 
 they are delicately clean. Dry them in a soft 
 cloth, and pare them very thinly. The parings 
 of truffles should be used for flavouring purposes. 
 
 TRUFFLES, WITH EGGS. 
 
 Take a large truffle, clean and pare it, cut it 
 into small pieces, and simmer these in a little 
 butter over a gentle fire for five or six minutes. 
 Drain, and put them into a clean stewpan with 
 two ounces of fresh butter, half a dozen fresh 
 eggs, two table-spoonfuls of thick cream, and a 
 little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Stir 
 this mixture with a wooden spoon over a gentle 
 fire until it begins to thicken, then draw it to 
 the side, and beat it until the eggs set without 
 being at all hard . Put the pre'paration on a hot 
 dish, and garnish with sippets. Time, alto- 
 gether, ten or fifteen minutes. 
 
 TSCHi, OR RUSSIAN SOUP. 
 
 Take a pound of nicely-flavoured sausage- 
 meat. Make it into small balls, and fry these 
 until they are slightly browned all over. Drain 
 them from the fat, put them into a soup 
 tureen, and pour over them three pints of boil- 
 ing soup prepared as follows. Mince two large 
 onions finely, and mix them with a small cab- 
 bage finely sliced. Put the whole into a stewpan 
 with a piece of fresh butter the size of a large 
 egg, and turn the vegetables about over a gentle 
 fire until they are nicely browned. Sprinkle 
 over them two ounces of flour, and moisten the 
 whole with three pints of nicely-flavoured stock. 
 Stir the soup over the fire until it boils, season 
 with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and let it 
 simmer gently for half an hour, skimming care- 
 fully the whole of the time. Just before serv- 
 ing, put into it a table-spoonful of finely-minced 
 lean ham, a glassful of light wine, and three or 
 four tarragon-leaves finely shredded. Serve 
 very, hot. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 Time, half an hour to simmer the soup. 
 
TUN 
 
 939 
 
 TUR 
 
 TUNBRIDGE CAKES. 
 
 Rub two ounces of fresh butter into half a 
 pound of dried and sifted flour. Add a pinch 
 of salt, four ounces of powdered white sugar, 
 two ounces of caraway-seeds, and as much 
 water as will be required to make a stiff paste. 
 Roll this out very thin, stamp it into small 
 rounds, prick the surface lightly with a fork, 
 and bake the cakes in a well-heated oven. Time 
 to bake, fifteen to thirty minutes, according to 
 size. Probable cost, 6d. for this quantity. 
 
 TUNBRIDGE PUDDINGS. 
 
 Boil a j)int of new milk, and as it rises in 
 the pan stir into it gradually as much flour as 
 will make a thick batter. Beat it until quite 
 Smooth, pour it out, and when cold add three 
 well-beaten eggs, a table-spoonful of sugar, and 
 two or three drops of almond ratafia or any other 
 flavouring. Throw the butter in spoonfuls on 
 a large floured plate, dredge the surface well 
 with flour, and drop the puddings into hot lard 
 or clarified fat. Pry them till they are lightly 
 and equally browned, and serve" on a hot dish 
 with white sugar sifted thickly over them. Time 
 to fry, until brown. Probable cost, 9d. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 TUNNY. 
 
 Tunny is a kind of fish slightly resembling 
 the mackerel; it is caught in the Mediterranean, 
 and sent to other parts preserved in oil. Th-a 
 fish is delicate and highly esteemed, somewhat 
 resembling veal". To serve it, cut it in 'thin 
 slices, and arrange these in rows overlapping 
 each other. Put little heaps of capers and 
 chopped parsley round the dish, pour a little 
 fresh salad-oil over the fish, and serve. 
 
 Cost, variable. 
 
 TURBOT. 
 
 The turbot is the most highly esteemed of all 
 flat fish. Its flesh is white, rich, and gelatinous. 
 It is an expensive fish, and sold by size instead 
 
 TUllBOT A LA C'REME GKATINE, GA11NISHE1> WIIH 
 
 EGGS (_see page 940). 
 
 of weight. It will keep for a day or even two if 
 lightly salted. The thick portion of the fins 
 and the gelatinous skin are the parts of the fish 
 most relished by epicures. The thick slices from 
 ' the middle of the back are the best parts. In 
 preparing a turbot for dressing great care is 
 
 necessary. First empty the fish, and cleanse 
 the inside. Rub a little salt over the outside, as 
 this will help to remove the slime, then wash the 
 turbot in several waters. Dry it with a cloth, 
 and rub it all over with a cut lemon to make it 
 white. On no account cut ofE the fins. Make 
 an incision down the thickest part of the middle 
 of the back, that is the dark side of the fish, in 
 order to keep the skin on the white side from 
 cracking. Any unsightly red spots on the 
 underside may be removed by rubbing them 
 with salt and lemon-juice. A turbot is usually 
 served the white side uppermost. Some cooks 
 have an idea that the best slices are to be found 
 on the dark side, and therefore serve it back 
 upwards. When this is done, the fish is usually 
 garnished. Turbot iaat the best from April to 
 September. Moderate-sized fish are the best. 
 TURBOT (4 la Bechamel). 
 
 This is a favourite method of dressing the 
 remains of boiled turbot. Remove the fiesh 
 from the bones while it is still warm if possible, 
 divide it into convenient-sized pieces, and take 
 away all the skin. Put a pint of milk or cream, 
 or equal parts of either muk and white stock or 
 milk and cream, into a stewpan with a strip of 
 thin lemon-rind, a finely-minced shallot, six 
 peppercorns, and half a tea-spoonful of salt. 
 Let it boil for ten minutes, then strain and 
 thicken it with a large table-spoonful of flour 
 mixed smoothly with a little cream or butter. 
 Stir the sauce over a gentle fire for five minutes, 
 put in the slices of fish, and when they are quite 
 hot turn the whole preparation upon a hot dish. 
 A few oysters may be added to the sauce if liked, 
 and if milk only is used, the sauce may be made 
 richer by adding the yolks of two eggs mixed 
 with a little cream. If this is done, care must 
 be taken not to let the sauce boil after the eggs 
 are added. Garnish the dish with sliced lemon 
 and parsley, or with potato croquettes or toasted 
 sippets. Time, three or four minutes to heat 
 the fish in the sauce. Sufficient, a pound of cold 
 turbot and one-third of a pint of sauce for two 
 persons. 
 TURBOT (a la Crfeme). 
 
 Take the flesh from the remains of a boiled 
 turbot, free it from bones and skin, and divide 
 it into neat pieces, season with a little salt, 
 pepper, and grated nutmeg, pour on it the 
 strained juice of a lemon, and let it lie if or an 
 hour. Simmer half a pint of new milk with a 
 strip of lemon-rind and a bay-leaf till it is 
 pleasantly flavoured. Strain it over the fish, 
 and let it heat gently. Beat the yolks of two 
 eggs, and mix them smoothly with a table- 
 spoonful of flour and half a pint of thick cream. 
 Stir this carefully into the sauce, let it get 
 quite hot, but on no account allow it to boil. 
 Serve immediately. Time, a few minutes to 
 heat the fish in the sauce. Sufficient, a pound 
 of fish for one or two persons. 
 TURBOT (a la CrSme d'Anchois). 
 
 Boil a moderate-sized turbot in the usual way, 
 and place it carefully on a hot dish without a 
 napkin. Flavour a pint of rich melted butter 
 with one or two tea-spoonfuls of essence of 
 anchovies, and add one-eighth of a pint of 
 thick cream. Mix the sauce over the fire, and 
 when It is nearly boiling pour it over the fish. 
 
TUR 
 
 940 
 
 TUR 
 
 Sprinkle a table-spoonful of chopped capers or 
 gherkins upon the surface, garnish the dish with 
 a border of new potatoes, and serve very hot. 
 Time, a few minutes to heat the sauce. This 
 quantity of sauce is sufficient for a moderate- 
 sized fish. 
 
 TURBOT (i la Creme Gratine). 
 
 Make the fish hot in some good cream sauce, 
 according to the last recipe. Arrange it neatly 
 in a dish in layers, first a little fish, then a little 
 sauce, and let sauce be the uppermost layer. 
 Strew seasoned crumbs and grated Parmesan 
 lightly over the whole, pour over this two or 
 three table-spoonfvils of very thick cream, and 
 put the dish into the oven to get quite hot. 
 Brown the surface with a salamander or red-hot 
 fire shovel, and serve very hot. Time, alto- 
 gether, half an hour or more. 
 
 TURBOT {k la Proven;ale). 
 
 Take all skin and bone from some cooked tnr- 
 bot, and flake it. Grease a dish, and put in 
 enough chives, parsley, and shallots, all 
 chopped, to cover the bottom. Season with 
 salt, grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, and a little 
 pepper and cayenne, then pour enough salad-oil 
 over to moisten these ingredients. Spread the 
 fish, moistened with a little milk, on the top in 
 a layer of an inch or more. Then put more 
 seasoning on the top, with more oil or bits of 
 butter. Bake for a quarter of an hour or so, 
 closely covered at first, but uncovered during the 
 latter part of the time. Serve very hot. 
 
 TURBOT AND LOBSTER SAUCE. 
 
 Choose a very white and fine-skinlied turbot 
 three-quarters of an hour before dinner, or an 
 hour if the fish is very large, put it, with lemon 
 slices over it, into boiling salted water; start 
 it very quick ; when it begins to boil, draw 
 the pan to the side of the fire. If the turbot 
 boils too fast, it will be woolly. When you have 
 ascertained with your knife that it is quite done, 
 serve with green parsley on the broken places, 
 and put round the dish some horse-radish 
 scraped fine ; serve lobster sauce separately in 
 a boat. Make an aperture in the back of the 
 turbot, and it will be the sooner done. 
 
 TURBOT (au Gratin). , 
 
 Take the remains of cooked turbot, and divide 
 the flesh into square pieces of an equal size, 
 after having taken away all skin and bone. 
 Sprinkle with bread-crumbs mixed with a little 
 minced parsley and seasoning. Lay the fish in a 
 baking-dish with two ounces of butter, and bake 
 for a quarter of an hour, basting frequently. 
 Take the remains of the shrimp or lobster sauce 
 that accompanied the turbot, add to it a little 
 essence of anchovies and a squeeze of lemon, 
 and make it hot. Arrange the fish neatly on a 
 dish, and pour the sauce over it. Garnish with 
 parsley and cut lemon. 
 
 TURBOT, BAKED. 
 
 Empty, wash, and dry a moderate-sized tur- 
 bot. Rub with butter the inside of the dish in 
 which it is to be baked, and sprinkle upon it 
 a little pepper and salt, grated nutmeg, and 
 finely-chopped parsley. JPlace the turbot upon 
 this, and sprinkle a little more seasoning on 
 the upper part of the fish. Put two or three 
 ounces of butter broken in little pieces here 
 
 and there upon it, dredge it well with flour, 
 and add two glassfuls of light wine, and, if it 
 is at hand, one or two table-spoonfuls of oyster- 
 broth or mushroom-juice. Bake the fish in a 
 moderate oven, and when it is done enough lift 
 it carefully upon the dish on which it is to be 
 served, keep it hot, and prepare the sauce as 
 follows. Pour the liquor from the baking-dish 
 into a saucepan, thicken with a little flour and 
 butter, stir over the fire for a minute or two, 
 and then serve in a tureen. The sauce may be 
 varied by the addition of a little essence of 
 anchovy, nutmeg, cayenne, and lemon-juice ; or 
 a little white sauce may be added, or a dozen 
 mushrooms, or a dozen scalded and bearded 
 oysters. Garnish the turbot with scraped horse- 
 radish and sliced lemon or fried bread or green 
 parsley. 
 
 Time to bake the turbot, twenty to thirty 
 minutes, according to size. 
 
 Probable cost, uncertain. 
 
 Sufficient, a moderate-sized turbot for five or 
 six persons. 
 
 TURBOT, BOILED 
 
 All fish, with one exception, may be boiled 
 according to the directions given below, namely, 
 cleaned, put into boiling salted water, boiled one 
 minute, then drawn back, and simmered gently 
 till done enough. The exception is mackerel, 
 which should be put into warm, not boiling, 
 water, for fear of breaking the skin. Empty 
 the fish, wash it inside with scrupulous nicety, 
 then remove the scales and gills, and trim 
 the fins, but do not cut them off, as the gela- 
 inous parts about them arc esteemed a great 
 delicacy. 
 
 Rub a little salt all over the outside of 
 the fish — ^this will make the slime come off 
 more easily, and do away with the necessity 
 for soaking the fish. Wash it until it is as 
 clean as possible. Dry it, and rub with a 
 cut lemon or a little vinegar. Draw a sharp 
 knife just through the skin in the thickest part 
 of the middle of the back on the dark aide of the 
 fish. This is to keep the skin from cracking on 
 the white side- Put as much cold water as will 
 be required to cover the fish into a turbot-kettle, 
 and dissolve in this a little salt in the proportion 
 of six ounces of salt to a gallon of water. 
 Bring the water to the boil and remove the scum 
 as it rises. Lay the turbot, white side up, on a 
 fish-strainer, lower it into the boiling water, 
 and draw the pan back at once and simmer the 
 fish very gently until it is done enough. As 
 soon as thiii point is reached, take it up, drain 
 the water from it, and slip it, the white side up, 
 upon a hot dish covered with a napkin or fish- 
 paper. Garnish with parsley, cut lemon, and 
 scraped horse-radish, and if it should happen 
 unfortunately that the fish is at all cracked, lay 
 two or three little pieces of parsley upon it, 
 so as to cover the crack. Plain melted butter, 
 shrimp sauce, anchovy sauce, Dutcji sauce, and 
 lobster sauce njay all be served with boiled 
 turbot. When lobster sauce is used, a little of 
 the spawn may be rubbed through a sieve and 
 sprinkled over the fish. Some cooks have an 
 idea that the best parts of the fish lie in the 
 back, therefore they dish the turbot with the 
 dark side uppermost. However this may be. 
 
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 941 
 
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 the turbot looks best with the white side on 
 the top. It is impossible to gfive the exact time 
 for boiling, as turbot varies much in thickness 
 as well as in size. When the flesh appears to 
 shrink from the bone it is done, and it should 
 be carefully watched, as if it boils too long it 
 will be broken and spoilt. Time, a moderate- 
 sized turbot, fifteen to twenty minutes to simmer 
 gently from the time the water boils; large, 
 twenty to thirty-five minutes. Probable cost, 
 uncertain. 
 
 TURBOT, BROILED. 
 
 Clean a small turbot, and dry it well. Lay it 
 on a dish, sprinkle a little pepper and salt on it, 
 and pour over it four table-spoonfuls of oil and 
 two of vinegar or lemon-juice. When it is to be 
 dressed place it in a double gridiron, and broil 
 it over a slow clear fire. Turn it every five or 
 six minutes, and on each occasion brush it over 
 with the marinade in the dish. When it is done 
 enough — that is, when the flesh will leave the 
 bone easily — put it upon a hot dish, and pour 
 over it some good white sauce, or oyster sauce, 
 or mussel sauce. Garnish with parsley and 
 prawns. Time to broil, about half an hour. 
 
 TURBOT, BROILED (another way). 
 
 Marinade the turbot in olive oil, salt, pepper, 
 etc., and broil it on a slow fire : it cannot be 
 sufficiently done in this way in less than an 
 hour. When you serve, cover with caper sauce, 
 which is to be made as follows. Prepare some 
 melted butter with a little glaze in it; wiien 
 melted, throw in some essence of anchovies, a 
 few capers, and a drop of vinegar. Then give 
 a good seasoning, and pour the sauce over the 
 fish. 
 TURBOT, BROILED, WITH CAPER SAUCE. 
 
 Take a small fish emptied and washed, make 
 an incision in the back down to the bone ; then 
 wipe it quite dry; next lay it in a dish to steep 
 in salt, pepper, and sweet oil ; put in very little 
 oil, as it requires only sufiicient to prevent it 
 from drying. Half an hour, or even three- 
 quarters of an hour, before dinner-time, broil 
 the fish over a slow fire on both sides, and serve 
 up with caper sauce made as in the preceding 
 recipe. 
 TURBOT, CARVING OF. 
 
 Eun the fish-knife down the whole length of 
 the back from the head to the tail, then cut 
 
 TtJBBOT, CARVING OF. 
 
 slices off each side in the direction of the dotted 
 lines (see Illustration). 
 
 TURBOT, CHOOSING OF. 
 
 A medium-sized fish is the best. Turbot ought 
 to be thick and of a cream-coloured white. If 
 of a bluish tint and thin it is not good. The 
 flesh ought to feel springy under pressure from 
 the finger. Sometimes turbot is slightly dis- 
 figured by having two or three red spots on the 
 underside, and may be bought at a cheaper rate 
 in cousequenpe. These spots often disappear 
 when they are rubbed with salt and lemon. 
 Turbot is at its best from April to September. 
 
 TURBOT, COLD, TO SERVE A SECOND TIME. 
 
 Turbot is so delicious and so expensive that 
 none of it should be wasted. The cold remains 
 may be served in various ways, the different recipes 
 for which are here given. They may be warmed 
 in white sauce (see Turbot 1 la Bechamel 
 and A LA Cremb), served with bread-crumbs (see 
 TuBBOT 1 LA Cbeme Gkatine) ; they may be made 
 into salad (see Tuebot Salad), or curried, or 
 pickled, or scalloped, or made into croquettes, 
 or into a turbot pie, or into patties or vol-au- 
 vents, or cut into neat pieces, and served cold 
 with shrimp or lobster sauce. The following is 
 a simple and excellent recipe for dressing cold 
 turbot a second time. Remove the skin and the 
 bones, and divide the flesh into neat pieces con- 
 venient for serving. Warm any cold sauce that 
 may be left, and stir in with it a fourth of its 
 quantity in milk or cream, and add a few drops 
 of anchovy essence and a little pepper and salt. 
 Put the pieces of fish into the sauce, and let 
 them heat through, but do not let them boil. 
 Serve very hot. Time, three or four minutes to 
 heat the fish. 
 
 TURBOT, COLD, WITH SHRIMP CHUTNEY. 
 
 Lift the flesh from the bones, free it from skin, 
 and divide it into neat pieces. Lay these on a 
 dish, garnish with green parsley, and send to 
 table with the following preparation. Shell a 
 pint of fresh shrimps, mince them finely, pound 
 them to a smooth paste, and season with cayenne 
 and a little salt if required. Mix with them Lucca 
 oil and best vinegar, enough to make a smooth 
 paste. The proper proportions are one spoonful 
 of vinegar to two of oil, but in regard to this 
 individual taste must be consulted. The chut- 
 ney when finished should be of the consistency 
 of thick boiled custard. A little finely-minced 
 shallot may be added or not. 
 
 TURBOT CROQUETTES. 
 
 Take the remains of cold turbot ; free the 
 flesh from skin and bone, mince finely, season 
 with salt, cayenne, and grated nutmeg, and add 
 an equal weight of bread-crumbs moistened with 
 very thick white sauce — or, failing this, hot milk 
 — a little chopped parsley, and enough butter to 
 form a smooth paste. Form the mixture into 
 small balls or cones. Dip these first into beaten 
 egg, and afterwards into bread-crumbs, and fry 
 them in hot fat till they are ligltly and equally 
 browned all over. Drain them from the fat, and 
 serve neatly arranged on a napkin. Garnish the 
 dish with parsley, and send good fish sauce to 
 table in a tureen. Time to fry the croquettes, 
 five or six minutos. 
 TURBOT, CURRIED. 
 
 Peel and mince finely a large onion, and fry 
 it in butter till it is quite tender, iRub i'; 
 
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 942 
 
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 through a sieve, and mix smoothly with the pulp 
 a tea-spoonful of ground rice, a table-spoonful 
 of curry-paste or powder, the strained juice of 
 a lemon, and two table-spoonfuls of good stock, 
 and simmer the sauce very gently for ten or 
 twelve minutes. Add a little salt if necnssary, 
 and two table-spoonfuls of thick cream. Put in 
 about a pound of cold-dressed turbot, already 
 freed from skin and bone, and divided into 
 pieces an inch square. Let the fish get quite 
 hot, and serve the curry on a hot dish, with a 
 wall of boiled rice round it. Time, altogether, 
 half an hour. 
 
 TURBOT (en Coquilles). 
 
 Take the remains of cooked turbot, free the 
 flesh from skin and bone, and cut it into tiny 
 dice. Cook a table-spoonful of button mush- 
 rooms, cut small, in a little butter, add salt and 
 pepper, a tea-spoonful of sherry, a grate of nut- 
 meg, and five or six table-spoonfuls of bechamel. 
 Butter some small china shells or other conve- 
 nient receptacles, fill them with the mixture, 
 and set them on a large steamer, or the strainer 
 of a fish-kettle, over boiling water, until just hot 
 through. Boil two eggs hard; rub both the 
 yolk and white through a sieve, and sprinkle 
 them over the fish. Serve hot on a dish covered 
 with a serviette. 
 
 TURBOT FILLETS. 
 
 A small turbot may be used for this purpose, 
 or it a turbot is larger than is required for im- 
 mediate use, it may be cut into halves, one half 
 may be filleted, and the other half dressed in a 
 different way. Clean and dry the fish, and raise 
 the flesh from the bones with a sharp knife. 
 Take off the dark skin, but leave the whfte skin 
 untouched. Divide the meat into neat pieces 
 the size and shape of small cutlets, and either 
 fry, stew, or bake them. To fry them, dip them 
 into beaten egg and bread-crumbs, fry m hot 
 fat till they are lightly browned, drain them, 
 serve neatly arranged like cutlets on a folded 
 napkin, and garnish with fried parsley. To 
 bake them, put a pound of the filleted meat, 
 -arranged in a single layer, into a baking- 
 dish with two ounces of sweet butter, a little 
 pepper and salt, and the strained juice of a 
 lemon. Put them in a brisk oven, baste well 
 with the liquor, and bake until done enough. 
 Dish them as before. To stew them, remove 
 all the skin from the fish, dredge the fillets 
 with some flour, and fry them till they are 
 lightly browned. Put them into the stewpan, 
 and pour over them as much nicely-seasoned 
 stock as will cover them. Let them stew 
 gently until done enough. Lift them out of 
 the sauce with a fish-slicer, lay them on a hot 
 dish, and keep them warm. Skim the gravy, 
 thicken with a spoonful of brown thickening, 
 add a spoonful of mushroom ketchup and a 
 glassful of light wine, let it boil up, and strain 
 it over the fish. Serve very hot. Time to fry 
 the fillets, five or six minutes ; to bake them, 
 about twenty minutes; to stew them, ten to 
 £fteen minutes. 
 
 TURBOT, FILLETS OF (au Gratin). 
 
 Take the remains of cooked fish. Free the 
 meat from skin and bone, and divide it into 
 small fillets. Mince three or four button mush- 
 rooms finely, mix with them a table-spoonful of 
 
 chopped parsley and half a shallot finely minced. 
 Season with pepper and salt, and fry them over 
 a gentle fire till they are soft. Spread them at 
 the bottom of a small, thickly-buttered silver — 
 or, failing this, tin — baking-dish, lay the pieces 
 of fish upon them, and cover with a thick layer of 
 finely-grated bread-crumbs. Stick little pieces 
 of butter here and there on the top, moisten the 
 fifih with a little light wine, and bake in a brisk 
 oven. If necessary, brown the surface by hold- 
 ing a red-hot shovel over it, or by putting the 
 dish before the fire for a minute or two, and just 
 before sending the fish to table squeeze the- juice 
 of a lemon over it. Time to ' bake, fifteen to 
 twenty minutes. 
 
 TURBOT, PATTIES OR VOL-AU-VENTS OF. 
 
 Line some patty-pans with good puff-paste, or 
 make some small vol-au-vents according to the 
 directions already given (see Ptjit-paste Pat- 
 ties, Small Vol-au-vents op). Bake them, and 
 while still hot fill them with the following pre- 
 paration. Take the white meat of the turbot 
 freed from skin and bone, mince finely, and sea- 
 son with pepper and salt. Put into a stewpan two 
 or three table-spoonfuls of thick cream, the quan- 
 tity to be regulated by that of the fish. Thicken 
 the cream by boiling it with a slice of butter 
 rolled in flour, and when it is quite hot put the 
 minced fish into it that it may heat also. It 
 should be remembered that the seasoned mince 
 should be of a good consistency, or it will soak 
 through the pastry. Fill the hot ,patties or the 
 hot vol-au-vents with the hot mince, and serve. 
 Time, a few minutes to prepare the mince. 
 
 TURBOT, PICKLED. 
 
 Take the remains of a cooked turbot ; lift the 
 flesh from the bones in large pieces, and put 
 these in a deep dish. Put the bones and trim- 
 mings into a saucepan with a pint of water, 
 and add an onion stuck with two cloVes, a small 
 turnip and carrot, a bunch of parsley, a sprig 
 of thyme, and a bay-leaf. Simmer these gently 
 for half an hour, then add a glassful of sherry, 
 or, if preferred, a quarter of a pint of vinegar. 
 Let the liquor cool, and strain it over the fish. 
 Serve quite cold. Time to boil the pickle, half 
 an hour. 
 TURBOT PIE. 
 
 Take the remains of cold turbot, free the white 
 flesh from skin and bone, tear it into flakes; and 
 season with pepper, salt, and a small portion of 
 powdered mace. Spread it at the bottom of a 
 thickly-buttered baking-dish, and pour over it 
 any sauce that was left with it, either melted 
 butter, white sauce, oyster sauce, or any other 
 kind. If there is no cold sauce, put two or three 
 ounces of clarified butter over the fish. Mash 
 some potatoes with hot milk and a little butter, 
 and spread a layer of these (fully an inch and a 
 half deep) over the fish. Rough the top with a 
 fork, and heat the pie in a brisk oven. If it is 
 not nicely browned on the top, put it in front 
 of a clear fire for a few minutes before sending 
 it to table, or hold a salamander or a red-hot 
 fire-shovel over it. Serve very hot. Time to 
 bake the pie, about half an hour. 
 
 TURBOT, RAGOUT OF. 
 
 Cook one pound of raw turbot, cut into dice, 
 in two ounces of butter and the juice of haU 
 
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 a lemon for twenty minutes ; add half an ounce 
 ef flour mixed with half a glass of white wine ; 
 boil up, take from the fire, and beat in an egg, 
 with seasoning to taste, and two spoonfuls of 
 melted butter. . Butter a dish, coat it with 
 Parmesan cheese, and . pour the mixture in. 
 Sprinkle on it more grated cheese, with a few 
 bread-crumbs, and pour over an ounce or more 
 of melted butter. Set the dish in a tin of hot 
 water for ten minutes in a moderate oven, then 
 brown the surface delicately with a salamander 
 or red-hot shovel just before serving. 
 TURBOT, ROE OF. 
 
 Handle the roe as lightly as possible. Blanch 
 it and cut it into slices. Put these into a, 
 buttered dish, bake until done enough, and keep 
 them well basted during the process. Lay them 
 on a hot dish, and pour over as much nicely- 
 flavoured white sauce as will cover them. Gar- 
 nish the dish with parsley and sliced lemon, and 
 serve'very hot.. Time to bake the roe, fifteen to 
 twenty-five minutes. Sufficient for a small 
 dish. 
 
 TURBOT SALAD. 
 
 The remains of cooked turbot will make a 
 most delicious salad. Lift the flesh from the 
 bones, free it from skin and bone, and divide it 
 into pieces an inch and a half square. Season 
 these slightly with pepper, salt, oil, and vinegar, 
 cover the dish on which they are, and leave them 
 in a cool place till wanted. Wash two large 
 fresh lettuces or any suitable salad. Dry them 
 perfectly by putting them in small quantities 
 at a time into a clean cloth, then taking this 
 up loosely by the four corners and shaking the 
 moisture from the leaves. Cut them into neat 
 pieces half an inch broad, and leave them in an 
 airy place till wanted. Beat the raw yolks of 
 two fresh eggs for two or three minutes, and mix 
 with them a spoonful of mixed mustard, half a 
 tea-spoonful of salt, and a little white pepper. 
 Add, first by drops and afterwards by tea-spoon- 
 fuls, four table-spoonfuls of Lucca oil, and beat 
 the sauce well for a minute between every addi- 
 tion. Afterwards stir in gradually a tea-spoon- 
 ful of good French vinegar and a few drops of 
 tarragon vinegar. Add more oil and vinegar 
 in the same proportions until the sauce is of 
 the consistency of thick boiled custard. Leave 
 it in a cool place till wanted. Arrange the 
 salad just before it is to be sent to table. First 
 put a layer of lettuce lightly at the bottom of 
 the dish. Put some turbot upon it, and repeat 
 until the materials are used. Garnish the dish, 
 in any way that may be preferred, with hard- 
 boiled eggs, sliced cucumber, beetroot, olives, 
 filleted anchovies, etc. Pour the sauce over at 
 the last moment, and in arranging the salad 
 pour a small quantity of sauce over each layer 
 of fish. Time, half an hour to prepare the sauce. 
 It is better for being made an hour or two 
 before it is wanted. 
 
 TURBOT, SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Turbot may be served with plain melted 
 butter, lobster sauce, Dutch sauce, parsley 
 sauce, white sauce, shrimp sauce, mussel sauce, 
 or Italian sauce. It is very good eaten cold 
 with sliced cucumber and salad sauce. The 
 great French cook Careme never sent any other 
 sauce than melted butter to table with turbot. 
 
 TURBOT, SCALLOPED. 
 
 Take the remains of cold turbot, lift the flesh 
 from the bones, and remove the skin. Weigh 
 the white meat, and for each pound allow six 
 ounces of grated bread-crumbs seasoned with 
 salt, cayenne, and grated nutmeg. Cut the fish 
 into small pieces, season with salt and pepper, 
 and mix with it either a table-spoonful of cold 
 sauce or two ounces of clarified butter. Butter 
 some scallop-shells rather thickly. Spread a layer 
 of seasoned crumbs at the bottom of each, then 
 lay in the fish, and sprinkle more crumbs thickly 
 on the top. Place little pieces of butter here and 
 there on the surface, and put the shells in a 
 brisk oven. When they are quite hot lift them 
 out, and serve the fish in the shells neatly 
 arranged on a folded napkin. If scallop-shells 
 are not at hand, a small baking-dish may be 
 used instead. If preferred, the same quantity 
 of mashed potatoes may be used instead of the 
 bread-crumbs. Time to bake the fish in the 
 shells, a quarter of an hour. 
 
 TURBOT, STEWED. 
 
 Take a small turbot, clean it perfectly, dry it 
 well, and cut it into thin slices. Make a sauce 
 of thin melted butter boiled up with a little 
 salt and cayenne, a filleted anchovy, a dessert- 
 spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a tea-spoon- 
 ful of walnut pickle, and a glassful of 
 claret. Fry the slices of fish in hot fat till they 
 are lightly browned. Drain them, and put them 
 into the sauce. Let them simmer gently for five 
 minutes. Take them up carefully with a fish- 
 slicer so as not to break them, lay them on a hot 
 dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve imme- 
 diately. Garnish with sliced lemon. Time to 
 fry the fish, five minutes ; to simmer it in the 
 sauce, five minutes. 
 
 TURBOT, TIMBALEit OF & la Venetienne). 
 
 This is a dish made of the remains of turbot. 
 It requires but little of the flesh of the fish. 
 Cut whatever is left of the turbot into dice as 
 small as possible. To make the sauce, take 
 three spoonfuls of hot bechamel, to which add 
 n good lump of butter, salt, fine white pepper, 
 a little parsley chopped very fine and well 
 squeezed in a towel that it may not give a 
 green colour to the sauce ; then add a little 
 cavice. Keep stirring your sauce, which is 
 generally called working it. The French term 
 is vanner — taking up the sauce in a spoon, and 
 pouring it perpendicularly into the stewpan, 
 repeating the operation frequently and very 
 quickly to make the sauce transparent. When 
 it is mellow, and of a good taste, throw in the 
 turbot which you have cut into dice, keep it hot, 
 and when ready for sending to table garnish the 
 little timbales with the turbot. Let them lay 
 for a moment in the oven, and serve hot. 
 
 TURIN CAKES. 
 
 Blanch two ounces of sweet almonds and four 
 bitter ones, and pound them to a paste with the 
 white of an egg. Beat the yolks of five fresh 
 eggs, and work in with them gradually the 
 almond paste and eight ounces of powdered 
 white sugar. When these ingredients are well 
 beaten, add an ounce of potato-flour, two ounces 
 of fine flour, and the well-whisked whites of the 
 eggs. Pour the preparation into buttered and 
 sugared tartlet-tins, and bake in a moderate 
 
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 944 
 
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 oven. Time to bake, about half an hour, accord- 
 ing to size. Probable cost. Is. 2d. for this 
 quantity. 
 
 TURKEY. 
 
 The turkey is much esteemed and usually 
 commands a high price, especially at Christmas, 
 when most extravagant sums are often de- 
 manded and obtained for large, well-fed birds. 
 Turkeys are in season from September to March, 
 and are at their best in December and January. 
 If the weather is suitable, they should be hung 
 fully a week before being cooked. In very cold 
 weather, care must be taken that they are not 
 frozen in hanging, and if this is the case, they 
 should l?e brought into a warm place for some 
 hours before being cooked, or they will be spoilt. 
 The hen bird is considered the best. Brillat 
 Savariu says : " The turkey is the largest, and 
 if not the most delicate, at least the most 
 savoury, of domestic poultry. It enjoys the 
 singular advantage of assembling round it every 
 class of society. "When our farmers and wine- 
 growers regale themselves on a winter's even- 
 ing, what do we see roasting before the kitchen 
 fire, close to which the white-clothed table is 
 set? A turkey. When the useful tradesman, 
 or. the hard-worked artist, invites a few friends 
 to an occasional treat, what dish is he expected 
 to set before them? A nice roast turkey stuffed 
 with sausage-meat and Lyons chestnuts. And 
 in our highest gastronomical society, when 
 politics are obliged to give way to dissertations 
 on matters of taste, what is desired, what is 
 awaited, what is looked out for at the second 
 course? A truffled turkey. In my 'Secret 
 Memoirs,' I find sundry notes recording that 
 on many occasions its restorative juice has 
 illumined diplomatic faces of the highest 
 eminence." 
 TURKEY, BLANQUETTE OF. 
 
 Cut the meat from the remains of a cooked 
 turkey into neat slices, cover these with a cloth, 
 and set them in a cool place till wanted. Put 
 the bones and trimmings into a. saucepan with 
 two ounces of lean ham or a piece of bacon-rind, 
 a small onion finely-minced, a blade of mace, 
 and as much cold stock or water as will cover 
 them. Let all simmer gently together for half 
 an hour or more. Strain the liquor, and put it 
 back into the saucepan with half a gill of thick 
 cream, half a tea-spoonful of finely-minced 
 lemon-rind, and a little pepper, salt, and grated 
 nutmeg. Let the sauce simmer for ten minutes, 
 put in the slices of turkey, let them heat for 
 two or three minutes, then add gradually the 
 well-beaten yolk of an egg, and be careful to 
 mix a little of the sauce with the egg in a basin 
 before putting it to the rest. Stir gently for 
 a few minutes till the sauce is set, but on no 
 account allow it to boil after the egg is added. 
 Serve the preparation on a hot dish with toasted 
 sippets round it. Time, altogether, about an 
 hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold 
 turkey, 9d. Sufficient, with a pound of meat, 
 for two or three persons. 
 
 TURKEY, BOILED. 
 
 There is an old proverb which says that turkey 
 boiled is turkey spoiled, but in this couplet there 
 is more rhyme than reason, as a boiled turkey 
 forms a dainty dish most acceptable to persons 
 
 with delicate stomachs, who fear the richness 
 of the roasted bird, and also presents an agree- 
 able change to those who during the Christmas 
 festivities are tired of having roasted turkey 
 constantly set before them. A boiled turkey is 
 prepared as follows. Take a plump hen turkey, 
 which has hung for five or six days (weather 
 permitting), pluck, singe, and draw it, fill it 
 with veal or oyster forcemeat, or with chestnuts, 
 truss it for boiling, and remember to draw the 
 legs into the body, and bind it securely with 
 tape. Dredge flour over it, put it into an oval 
 pan with warm water just sufficient to cover 
 it, and put with it a tea-spoonful of salt, a 
 carrot, an onion stuck with four cloves, a dozen 
 peppercorns, a few sticks of celery, and a bunch 
 of parsley. Bring it slowly to the boil, skim the 
 liquor carefully, and let it simmer very gently 
 until the turkey is tender. Take it up, drain 
 it for a moment, serve on a hot dish, pour a 
 little melted butter or white sauce over it, as 
 all the company may not prefer oyster sauce, 
 and send parsley and butter, celery sauce, 
 oyster sauce, chestnut sauce, Dutch sauce, or 
 even good melted butter flavoured with horse- 
 radish, to table with it. A small ham boiled, 
 a red tongue, or even a pfood cheek of bacon 
 are all suitable accompaniments to boiled tur- 
 key, and the dish containing it may be garnished 
 with -bacon and sliced tongue, or with sliced 
 lemon and parsley, forcemeat balls, or bar- 
 berries. Many cooks wrap the turkey in a 
 floured cloth before putting it in to boil, but 
 this spoils the stock, and will be rendered un- 
 necessary if the scum is carefully removed as it 
 rises. Time to simmer gently — a turkey weigh- 
 ing ten pounds, two hours from the time the 
 water reaches the boiling point ; fifteen pounds, 
 two hours and a half. Probable cost, 6s. to 12s., 
 excepting at Christmas. 
 
 TURKEY, BOILED, AND STUFFED WITH TONGUE. 
 
 Take a small boiled pickled tongue. Cut off 
 the root entirely, leaving only a small portion 
 of the fat. Pluck, draw, singe, and bone a 
 turkey (see Tcbkey, Boning of), and cut off the 
 legs, but not the wings. Nearly fill the inside 
 with good veal forcemeat, push the tongue into 
 the centre of the stuffing, and sew the skin 
 over the back securely. Truss the bird firmly, 
 and restore it as nearly as possible to its 
 original shape. Cover the Ijreast with thin 
 slices of fat bacon, tie the bird in a clean white 
 cloth, and boil it according; to the directions 
 given in the last recipe, being careful to sim- 
 mer it very gently, for fear the skin should 
 break. Serve it hot or cold with white or 
 celery sauce, and in carving cut slices across 
 the breast, so that turkey, tongue, and force- 
 meat may be served together. If this dish is 
 intended for supper, let the turkey stand in a 
 cool place for an hour or two, then pour over it 
 some good white sauce lukewarm, ornament 
 with cut lemon, truffle, etc., and garnish the 
 dish with aspic jelly, lemon, and parsley. 
 
 TURKEY, BONINC OF. 
 
 Boning poultry is a difficult business for the 
 inexperienced, and, generally speaking, is best 
 left to the poulterer. Written instructions for 
 its accomplishment are almost valueless, and 
 the knowledge gained from them is worth very 
 
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 945 
 
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 little compared to that which may be derived 
 from once watching an experienced cook per- 
 form the operation. Turkeys are usually boned 
 without the skin being cut up the back. To do 
 this the joints are loosened inside the bird, the 
 flesh raised With a short sharp-pointed knife, 
 and the bones drawn out gradually, the flesh 
 being laid back, until the body is turned inside 
 out, when the boning may be easily finished. 
 When a turkey has been boned, the legs and 
 wings are generally drawn into the body of the 
 bird, and care must be taken to' simmer and 
 then to cool the bird very gently, for fear the 
 skin should burst. 
 
 TURKEY, BRAISED. 
 
 An old turkey is never so good as a young 
 one. When, however, a young one cannot be 
 obtained, the old one will be more likely to 
 give satisfaction if it is braised than if it is 
 roasted. Pliick and singe the bird, cut ofE the 
 neck and legs, empty it, and save the heart, 
 liver, and gizzard. Cut the neck into three 
 pieces, clean and scald the legs and the gizzard, 
 and peel off the outer scaly skin from the legs 
 and the thick inner skin from the gizzard. 
 Cover the bird with thin slices of unsmoked 
 fat bacon, and tie it round with twine to keep 
 it in shape. Put three or four slices of bacon 
 into a braising-pan, lay the turkey on these, 
 and put in with it the giblets and trimmings, 
 and a calf's foot cut in two, or two sheep's 
 trotters, together with four onions, each stuck 
 with three cloves, three carrots, a parsnip, two 
 bay-leaves, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, 
 a little salt and pepper, and half a clove of 
 garlic, if liked. Some cooks add one or two 
 glassfuls of wine and a glassful of brandy, but 
 these are unnecessary. Lay two or three slices 
 of bacon over the turkey, and almost cover it 
 with good stock. Put the lid on the stewpan, 
 and simmer its contents very gently from four 
 to six hours, according to the size of the bird. 
 If an ordinary stewpan is used instead of a 
 proper braising-pan, which will hold embers in 
 the lid, turn the turkey over when it is half 
 done. Braised turkey may be served either hot 
 or cold. If it is to be eaten hot, lay it upon 
 the dish, surround it with the best of the vege- 
 tables stewed with it, or with a chipolata 
 garnish prepared separately, and pour over it 
 a small portion of the gravy freed from fat, and 
 thickened with brown thickening. If it is to be 
 served cold, let it remain in the graVy in which 
 it was stewed, for half an hour after taking it 
 from the fire. Strain the. liquor, and boil till 
 it is reduced to two-thirds its original quantity, 
 so that it will form a jelly when cold. Strain 
 this, and free it entirely from fat. If necessary, 
 clear it with white of egg, according to the 
 directions given for clarifying jelly. Brush two 
 coats of this jelly over the turkey, then let the 
 rest get cold and stiff ; cut it into dice, stars, 
 strips, or other devices, and use it for garnish- 
 ing the dish. Time to braise the turkey, accord- 
 ing to size. Probable cost, uncertain. Suf- 
 ficient for a good-sized dish. 
 
 TURKEY, CARVING OF. 
 
 The breast of a turkey is so large, that slices 
 taken neatly from it and from the wings gener- 
 ally sufiice for all the company. They should be 
 
 3i 
 
 taken from each side alternately, beginning 
 close to the wings, and a little forcemeat and 
 a small portion of liver should be served to 
 
 TURKEY TRUSSED FOR BOASTING, NECK CAVITY LEFT 
 
 OPEN pou STUFFING (see page 953). 
 
 each guest. When the legs are used, they" 
 should be separated from the body. Cut up, 
 with the gizzard, they will make a good devil. 
 TURKEY, CHOOSING OF. 
 
 A hen turkey is the best, and it should be 
 young and plump. If young, the legs will be 
 black and smooth. If fresh, the eyes will be 
 bright and the feet supple. The length of the 
 spur will show whether or not a cock turkey is 
 young; Turkeys are in season from September 
 to February, and are at their best at Martin- 
 mas. They should be hung at least a week in 
 suitable weather, but if there is any fear that 
 they are frozen, they should be kept in a warm 
 kitchen for some hours before being cooked. 
 It is generally understood that a moderate- 
 sized turkey is more likely to be tender than a 
 very large one. 
 TURKEY, COLD, TO FRY. 
 
 Divide the rismaius of a cold turkey into neat 
 joints convenient for serving. Dip these into 
 beaten egg, and afterwards into seasoned bread- 
 crumbs, and fry them in hot fat till they are 
 lightly browned. Arrange them neatly on a- 
 dish, and pour over them a little good gravy 
 made as follows. Put the bones and trimmings 
 into a saucepan with as much stock or water 
 as will cover them, a bunch of parsley, one or- 
 two sticks of celery, and a little pepper and 
 salt. Let them simmer gently for an hourj 
 pour out the liquor, strain and skim it. Mince 
 two ounces of lean ham finely, and brown it 
 gently in a little butter. Dredge some flour 
 over it, and pour to it the strained gravy from 
 the bones. Stew the gravy gently until it is 
 wanted, skim well, and serve very hot. Gar-, 
 nish the dish with toasted sippets and sliced 
 lemon. Time, one hour and a half to make the 
 gravy, flve or six minutes to fry the joints of 
 turkey. 
 
 TURKEY, COOKED, TO EAT COLD. 
 
 Cold turkey makes a very useful dish for 
 suppers, luncheons, collations, etc. It may 
 either be stewed or roasted, and may be dished 
 whole and glazed, when it will form a handsome 
 dish; or it may be cut into pieces convenient 
 for serving, when two dishes at least may be 
 made of it. If it is to be roasted, stuff it with 
 sausage-meat, truss it firmly, and roast in the 
 usual way. Let it get cold, then lay two coats 
 of dissolved glaze lightly and evenly upon it 
 with a brush, and remember that one coat must 
 
TUR 
 
 946 
 
 TUR 
 
 dry perfectly before the other is put on. When 
 it is not convenient to prepare this glaze at 
 home, it may be bought at the Italian ware- 
 houses, and a quarter of a pound will be more 
 than sufficient for a good-sized turkey. Garnish 
 the turkey as prettily as possible with parsley, 
 cut lemon, real or artificial camellias, aspic 
 jelly, beetroot, or any other devices; ornament 
 ;the dish with parsley and cut lemon, and fill 
 !the empty spaces in the centre of the dish with 
 clear asp:c jelly cut small. 
 
 TURKEY, DEVIL OF, DRY. 
 
 The legs, back, gizzard, and rump of cold 
 cooked turkey may be used for this dish. Score 
 the meat along and across at regular distances, 
 three-quarters of an inch apart, and three- 
 quarters of an inch deep. Rub into the gashes 
 a well-mixed seasoning made of a salt-spoonful 
 of white pepper, a salt-spoonful of salt, a quar- 
 ter of a salt-spoonful of cayenne, and the 
 strained juice of a lemon, and cover with 
 freshly-made mustard. Brush the pieces of 
 meat over with butter or oil, and broil over a 
 clear fire till they are brown and crisp without 
 being at all burnt, and turn them over that 
 they may be equally done on both sides. Send 
 to table on a hot dish with little pieces of 
 butter upon thein. Dry toast may be served 
 as an accompaniment. Tlie devil will be all 
 the more savoury if it is prepared some hours 
 before it is broiled. If liked, half a clove of 
 garlic may be minced and mixed with the 
 seasoning, or the following ingredients may be 
 used for flavouring instead of those given above. 
 Half a salt-spoonnil of salt, half a salt-spoonful 
 of curry-powder, half a salt-spoonful of cayenne, 
 and a, heaped salt-spoonful of mushroom or 
 truffle-powder. Time, five minutes to prepare 
 the devil, seven to ten minutes to broil it. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable 
 cost, exclusive of the meat, about 3d. 
 
 TURKEY, DEVIL OF, WITH SAUCE. 
 
 Devilled turkey prepared as above may be 
 sent to table with sauce Robert, grill sauce, 
 poivrade sauce, curry sauce, thick melted 
 butter flavoured with anchovy or ketchup, or 
 with a sauce prepared as follows. Mince four 
 shallots or four young onions very finely, and 
 put them into a small stewpan with as much 
 good vinegar as will moisten them. Let them 
 simmer gently till they are soft, then add a 
 wine-glassful of strong gravy, a pinch of 
 cayenne, half a glassful of wine, and a small 
 piece of anchovy butter, or, if this is not at 
 hand, use six or eight drops of the essence of 
 anchovy, and stir a small lump of butter into 
 the same after it is strained and put into the 
 tureen. Boil the sauce two or three minutes 
 longer, and serve. If liked, the savoury joints 
 may be stewed in as much stock as will barely 
 cover them, and served on a hot dish with the 
 sauce poured over them, and garnished with 
 hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters lengthwise, 
 and arranged round the dish alternately with 
 toasted sippets. Time to stew the legs, etc., 
 nearly half an hour. Probable cost, varying 
 with the sauce. Sufficient for four persons. 
 TURKEY, DRAWING OF. 
 
 Lay the bird on its breast, push back the skin 
 of the neck, and cut the neck itself oft close to 
 
 the body, but leave the skin long that it may 
 be securely turned over. Remove the windpipe, 
 and loosen the inside of the throat with the 
 finger. Make an incision under the tail an inch 
 and a half long, with the fingers remove the 
 crop and the intestines, and be partioularl-7 
 careful not to break the gall-bladder, which is 
 fastened to the liver, nor to let any of the gall 
 touch the bird, as it will impart a bitter taste 
 which cannot afterwards be removed. Wash the 
 inside with a soft rag, pour water through it, 
 and dry it carefully. 
 TURKEY, FILLETS OF. 
 
 Cut the breast of a cooked turkey in fillets. 
 Put some veal stock into a stewpan with an 
 onion and a bunch of sweet herbs; let it boil 
 rather more than half an hour; strain and 
 thicken it with white roux and a little cream. 
 Heat up the fillets in this ; add salt and pepper, 
 a squeeze of lemon, a little finely-minced pars- 
 ley, and serve. 
 
 TURKEY, FORCEMEAT OF. 
 
 Shred very finely four ounces of beef suet or 
 beef marrow; add four ounces of finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs, a quarter of an ounce of mixed 
 savoury herbs, of which two-thirds should be 
 parsley and the remainder sweet marjoram or 
 lemon thyme, a quarter of an ounce of fresh 
 lemon-rind finely grated, and a little nutmeg, 
 pepper, salt, and cayenne. Mix these ingre- 
 dients thoroughly, and bind them together with 
 the yolks and whites of two eggs. A large 
 turkey will require double the quantity of force- 
 meat which the above ingredients will make, 
 and many cooks use equal weights of sausage- 
 meat and forcemeat well mixed together. Or 
 shred finely four ounces of beef suet, and add 
 four ounces of grated bread-crumbs, four ounces 
 of lean uncooked veal, a quarter of an ounce 
 of chopped parsley, a pinch of powdered thyme, 
 a shallot finely minced, and a little pepper, ' 
 salt, and powdered mace. Pound the ingre- 
 dients thoroughly, and bind the mixture to- 
 gether with the unbeaten yolk of an egg. Or 
 mix the above ingredients, and add a doaen 
 bearded oysters finely minced, and a filleted 
 anchovy, or two ounces of cooked lean ham or 
 tongue finely grated. Tinned oysters may be 
 used instead of fresh ones. Oyster sauce should 
 be used with this forcemeat, which is suita.ble 
 for a boiled turkey. Time, twenty minutes to 
 prepare. 
 
 TURKEY, FORCEMEAT OF CHESTNUTS FOR. 
 
 Mince finely a pound of fat, unsmoked bacon 
 and three-quarters of a pound of lean, un- 
 cooked veal. Season the mince with salt, 
 pepper, and grated nutmeg, and pound it in a 
 mortar till smooth. Roast and peel three 
 dozen chestnuts, and put them into the body of 
 the bird with the forcemeat. Or roast a pint 
 of chestnuts gently, and peel them ; weigh 
 them, and simmer half a pound of them for 
 twenty minutes in as much veal gravy as will 
 cover them. Drain them, and let them cool, 
 then pound them in a mortar with four ounces 
 of fresh butter, three ounces of grated bread- 
 crumbs, a pinch of grated lemon-rind, a smaller 
 one of powdered mace, and a little pepper, salt, 
 and cayenne. Bind the mixture together with 
 the unbeaten yolks of three eggs. 
 
TUR 
 
 947 
 
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 TURKEY, FRICASSEE OF 
 
 Cut the remains o£ a cold cooked tuikey into 
 neat pieces, leaving out any ugly-looking 
 joints ; inake a little good white sauce, and 
 when it is quite thick add the turkey and let 
 it stew for a quarter of an hour. Add half a 
 pound of button mushrooms and a little pepper. 
 Have a ring of pastry or rice on a hot dish, pile 
 the pieces nicely in, and pour the sauce over. 
 
 TURKEY, GALANTINE OF. 
 
 This dish, though rather trouhlesome.to pre- 
 pare, is an excellent one for luncheon or supper. 
 Pluck, draw, and singe a plump hen turkey; 
 cut it in two down the breast,' cut off the wings 
 and neck, and bone it carefully without injuring 
 the skin, first removing the back-bone. Remove 
 some of the flesh from the inside of the turkey 
 and from the legs, especially all the sinews. 
 Lay the turkey flat on the tatte, skin down- 
 wards, and truss the legs inside. Spread on it 
 a layer of veal forcemeat an inch deep, then 
 put a layer of the meat cut from the turkey, 
 and on this some strips of cooked lean ham and 
 fat bacon, lean veal, boiled tongue, with three 
 or four sliced truffles, if obtainable. The meat 
 and the truffles must be laid on in such a way 
 that the colours will contrast. Put another layer 
 of forcemeat on the top, and season the whole 
 with pepper and salt. Turn the skin over, roll 
 the turkey in the form of a large sausage, and 
 sew it up securely that the contents may not 
 escape. Lay thin slices of fat bacon round it, 
 and tie it in a cloth. Put it into a stewpan, 
 cover with nicely-seasoned stock, and let it 
 simmer gently for four hours. Two or three 
 onions stuck with cloves, a bay-leaf, three sliced 
 carrots, a bunch of parsley, and a sprig of 
 thyme may be stewed in the stock with the 
 turkey. Pat the bones of the turkey into a 
 separate stewpan with a few spoonfuls of stock, 
 and let them simmer gently for an hour. Strain 
 the liquor, stir a, wine-glassful of white wine 
 into it, and pour this broth into the pan con- 
 taining the turkey. When the galantine is 
 suiftciently cooked, lift it from the fire and let 
 it remain in the liquor for an hour. Tie it in 
 a fresh cloth, and lay it on a dish ; put a weight 
 upon it so that it may be pressed and still 
 retain its shape, and let it remain until cold. 
 Remove the cloth, clear the galantine from fat, 
 and brush two coata of glaze over it. Orna- 
 ment with aspic jelly, beetroot, and eggs cut 
 into various shapes, or with truffles, etc., stuck 
 into it with silver skewers. Time, four hours 
 to simmer the galantine. Sufficient for a large 
 supper-dish. 
 TURKEY GIBLETS, FRICASSEED. 
 
 Take one set of turkey giblets; these com- 
 prehend the wings, the feet, the gizzard, the 
 liver, the head, and the neck. Clean them all 
 carefully, skin and trim the feet, skin the 
 gizzard and divide it into quarters, cut the neck 
 into four pieces, and the wings and legs each 
 into two pieces ; skin, split, and clean the head, 
 and slice the liver. Dissolve two ounces of 
 butter in a stewpan, and put in the giblets, with 
 ,the exception of the liver, together with a small 
 bunch of parsley, a sprig; of thyme, another of 
 basil, an onion stuck with two cloves, and a 
 little pepper and salt. Fry these ingredients 
 
 gently till they are lightly browned. Pour over 
 them a pint of stock, and let them simmer 
 gently until done enough. Lift them out, skim 
 and strain the gravy, and thicken it with a 
 tearspoonful of brown thickening. Put in the 
 giblets once more with the liver, and simmei? all 
 gently for ten minutes. Arrange the giblets 
 neatly in the centre of a dish, pour the gravy 
 over them, and serve very hot. Any kind o< 
 vegetables may accompany this dish. Time 
 one hour aiid a half to simmer the giblets. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 TURKEY GIBLETS, WITH TURNIPS AND 
 POTATOES. 
 Prepare the giblets as above. Take half a 
 pound of streaky bacon, and cut it into con- 
 venient-sized pieces. Fry these in a little butter 
 till they are lightly browned. Lift them out, 
 then put in the giblets, and fry them in the 
 same butter. Pour gravy over them, and sim- 
 mer gently as in the last recipe. Cut three or 
 four large turnips to the shape of corks, and 
 peel six or eight button onions. Put them 
 into boiling water for five minutes, drain and 
 dry them, fry them in one ounce of butter till 
 they are lightly browned, and put them aside. 
 IPeel a dozen small potatoes, and trim them 
 neatly. Skim, strain, and thicken the gravy in 
 which the giblets gre stewed, and put in with 
 the bacon fried vegetables, soon enough for them 
 to be sufficiently cooked at the same time as the 
 meat. They will require from fifteen minutes 
 to half an hour, according to age and size. 
 Arrange the giblets neatly in the centre of a 
 hot dish, put the vegetables round them, pour 
 the gravy over, and serve very hot. The wings 
 only of turkeys are often stewed in this way. 
 Time, one hour and a half. Sufficient for three 
 or four persons. 
 TURKEY, GRILLED. 
 
 Take the remains of cold roast turkey, break 
 them into neat joints, then rub them over with 
 a little made mustard, cayenne pepper, salt, and 
 a little finely-minced onion. Grill, ovei- a clear 
 fire until brown, then heap on a hot dish. Pxit 
 a little chopped parsley and oiled butter over, 
 and serve very hot. 
 TURKEY, HASHED. 
 
 Cut the remains of cold cooked turkey into 
 neat slices, dredge a little flour over them, put 
 them into a stewpan, pour over them any sauce 
 that may be left, and add a little pepper, salt, 
 and grated nutmeg, if required. Shake the pan 
 over the fire until its contents are quite hot, but 
 do not allow them to boil. Draw it to the side 
 of the fire, and let the hash simmer gently for 
 ten OT fifteen minutes. Cut the forcemeat-balls 
 into slices, and warm these in the oven or before 
 the fire. Arrange the turkey neatly on a hot 
 dish, pour the gravy over it, and garnish with 
 alternate slices of forcemeat and toasted sippets. 
 A spoonful of minced pickled walnuts, pickled 
 mushrooms, kernelled olives, or gherkins, sim- 
 mered in the sauce, will pleasantly vary the 
 flavour of the hash. When there is no sauce 
 left from the previous day, a little may be, made 
 as follows. Put the skin, bones, and trimmings 
 of the turkey into a saucepan with a pint of 
 stock or water, a shallot, a spoonful of parsley, 
 four or five cloves, and two or three slieed mush- 
 
TUR 
 
 948 
 
 TUR 
 
 rooms. Simmer the sauce gently for half an 
 hour, strain it, season with pepper, salt, and 
 grated nutmeg, and thicken with the crushed 
 liver of the turkey and a little brown thickening. 
 Before sending to table, a spoonful of lemon- 
 juice may be added or not. Time, half an hour, 
 exclusive of the sauce. 
 
 TURKEY, LIVERS OF, CURRIED. 
 
 Pound the cooked livers of two turkeys (or 
 three fowls), mix them with a' tea-spoonful of 
 mustard, salt and cayenne to taste, a dessert- 
 spoonful of anchovy essence,^ a tea-spoonful of 
 curry-paste, and a little butter. Work all into a 
 smooth paste, rub it through a sieve, and spread 
 on hot buttered toast. Place it in a very sharp 
 oven for a few minutes to get thoroughly hot, 
 and cut it into convenient pieces. Dish up, gar- 
 nish with parsley, and serve with boiled rice. 
 
 TURKEY, MARINADED AND BROILED. 
 
 Parboil a young turkey, and when cold cut it 
 into neat joints. Bone these, and restore them 
 to their original form. Lay them in a marinade 
 made with four table-spoonfuls of vinegar, four 
 table-spoonfuls of water, two table-spoonfuls of 
 oil, three finely-minced shallots, two tea-spoon- 
 fuls of salt, and one of pepper. Let them lie in 
 this twelve hours, and turn .them over two or 
 three times that they may be equally seasoned. 
 Drain them, dip them twice in beaten egg and 
 bread-crumbs, and broil over a clear fire. Serve 
 on a hot dish, and garnish with cut lemon and 
 parsley. Send to table with them a sauce pre- 
 pared as follows. Boil two eggs for ten 
 minutes; put them in cold water for five 
 minutes, and afterwards put the yolks into a 
 mortar with four finely-minced shallots, a tea- 
 spoonful of chopped tarragon-leaves, a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of dry mustard, 
 and half a tea-spoonful of pepper. Pound the 
 ingredients to a smooth paste, and then add very 
 gradually, first by drops and afterwards by tea- 
 spoonfuls, three table-spoonfuls of salad-oil, two 
 of best vinegar, and one of chilli vinegr.r. Beat 
 the sauce for a minute or two between every 
 addition, and send it to table in a tureen. Time 
 to' broil the joints, about a quarter of an hour. 
 Probable cost, turkey, 6s. to 8s. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 
 TURKEY, MINCED. 
 
 When a turkey has been so far used that neat 
 slices cannot be cut from it to make a hash, the 
 retnains may be dressed as follows. Cut off the 
 meat, free it from skin, bone, and sinew, and 
 mince it finely. Season with salt, pepper, and 
 grated nutmeg, and put it into a stewpan with 
 siifijcient white sauce to moisten it. Let it 
 simmer gently without boiling till it is quite hot, 
 stirring all the time. Turn it upon a hot dish, 
 and garnish with poached eggs and toasted 
 sippets placed alternately. When the white 
 sauce is not at hand, a little may be made as 
 follows. Put a quarter of a pint of stock into 
 a saucepan with a thin strip of lemon-rind. Let 
 it simmer gently a few minutes till it is 
 pleasantly flavoured with the lemon. Strain, 
 and add gradually a dessert-spoonful of flour 
 which has been smoothly mixed with three or 
 four table-spoonfuls of milk or cream. Stir the 
 sauce gently over the fire for a few minutes till 
 it is quite thick, and add pepper, salt, and 
 
 grated nutmeg, if required, and after it is taken 
 from the fire stir half an ounce of fresh butter 
 into it until dissolved. Time, a few minutes to 
 heat the mince. 
 
 TURKEY, OLD, THE BEST WAY OF DRESSING. 
 Stuff the turkey with veal forcemeat, and truss 
 it for boiling. Cut a pound of lean bacon into 
 dice, and fry these in a quarter of a pound of 
 butter over a clear -fire till they are lightly 
 browned. Put in the turkey, breast downwards. 
 Cover the saucepan closely, and steam the bird 
 gently for an hour. Lift it out, dredge two 
 table-spoonfuls of flour into the butter, and 
 stir it briskly with the back of a wooden spoon 
 till it forms a smooth paste. Add gradually 
 three or four pints of boiling stock, put in the 
 turkey, and with it four or five large carrots 
 sliced, four turnips, a dozen button onions, a 
 large bunch of parsley, two bay-leaves, three or 
 four sprigs of thyme, and a little pepper and 
 salt. Let all simmer gently together for four 
 hours. Lift the turkey out, and. keep it hot. 
 Put the vegetables and sauce into a clean sauce- 
 pan, place this by the side of the fire, and oarer 
 fully remove the grease, etc., as it rises to the 
 surface. When no more appears, boil the sauce 
 quickly for a few minutes. Serve the turkey on 
 a hot dish. Arrange the vegetables round it, 
 and pour the sauce over. Garnish the dish with 
 small boiled potatoes or with roasted chestnuts. 
 Time to dress the turkey, five hours. 
 
 TURKEY PATTIES. 
 
 Line some patty-pans with good puff-paste, 
 and bake them in the oven. When they are 
 baked enough, take them out of the oven, and 
 three-parts fill them with a hot savoury mixture 
 prepared as follows. Mince a little of the 
 white flesh of a cold cooked turkey very finely, 
 and add a small proportion of grated ham. 
 Stew the meat gently for a minute or two in 
 as much melted butter or good gravy as will 
 barely cover it, add a spoonful of thick cream, 
 and season the preparation with a little grated 
 lemon-rind, white pepper, salt, and powdered 
 mace. Care should be taken that the mince is 
 made very thick, and that the patties are not 
 filled up so that the gravy will run over. Time, 
 a quarter of an hour to prepare the mince. 
 Probable cost, patties, 2d. each, exclusive of 
 the cold meat required. Sufficient, eight or ten 
 for a dish. 
 
 TURKEY PINIONS, STEWED. 
 
 Remove the large wing-bone from the pinions, 
 and fold the skin over at the end. Fry the 
 wings in a little butter till they are liglrtly 
 browned, dredge some flour over, barely cover 
 them with stock, and add a bunch of parsley, a 
 small onion stuck with one clove, and a little 
 pepper and salt. A glass of claret may be put 
 into the stock if liked. Let all simmer gently 
 together for an hour, then add half a dozen 
 small onions fried in butter, and four or five 
 mushrooms chopped small. Just before serving 
 the stew, mince a tea-spoonful of capers finely, 
 and stir them into the sauce. Put the pinions 
 into the centre of a dish, pour the sauce over and 
 round them, and garnish with sippets of toast. 
 Time, an hour and a half. Probable cost. Is., 
 exclusive of the pinions. Sufficient, one set of 
 pinions for one or two persons. 
 
TUR 
 
 949 
 
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 TURKEY PINIONS, STEWED (another way). 
 
 Prepare the pinions as in the preceding re- 
 cipe. Fry them in butter or bacon-fat till they 
 are lightly browned, then pour some nicely- 
 flavoured white stock over tliem, and simmer 
 gently until done enough. Lay them between 
 two dishes, and let them remain until cold. 
 Strain the gravy, and free it entirely from fat. 
 Boil quickly until it is so much reduced that 
 it will be jelly when cold. When the pinions are 
 to be served, warm them in the gravy, and let 
 the gravy simmer again until it is quite thick. 
 Put the pinions on a dish, lightly cover them 
 with some of the gravy, and send the rest to 
 table in a tureen. This dish may be sent to 
 table with spinach, or with a puree of chestnuts 
 or lentils. Time, an hour and a half to stew the 
 pinions. Sufficient, one set of pinions for one 
 or two persons. 
 TURKEY, PLUCKING OF. 
 
 When plucking a turkey, or poultry of any 
 kind, be careful to pull out the feathers in the 
 direction in which they lie. If this point is not 
 attended to, the skin may be torn and the 
 appearance of the bird spoiled. After the bird 
 is plucked, singe off the hairs with a lighted 
 paper. 
 TURKEY, POTTED. 
 
 Take a small turkey weighing about five 
 pounds; pluck, singe, draw, and bone it, open 
 it, and cut off the neck and legs. Lay it skin 
 downwards on a table, season with pepper, salt, 
 and powdered mace, spread a layer of forcemeat 
 all over it, and roll it round. Choose a potting- 
 pan of a suitable size for the turkey. Place a 
 layer of forcemeat at the bottom, put in the 
 bird, and cover with forcemeat. Lay three or 
 four thin slices of fat bacon and a bay-leaf on 
 the top. Cover the pan, and place it in a large 
 saucepan with boiling water two inches deep, 
 and as this evaporates add more boiling water 
 to keep it to the same depth. Put it into the 
 oven, and let the turkey cook gently until done 
 enough. To ascertain when this point is reached, 
 push a trussing-needle right through the body of 
 the bird, and when it enters easily the turkey 
 may be taken out. Let it get cold, and cover 
 the surface with a layer of good dripping or lard. 
 Set it in a cool place for several hours, and it 
 will be ready for use. The forcemeat may be 
 made as follows. Cut in slices the meat from 
 the legs of the bird free from skin and sinew. 
 Put with them half a pound of lean veal and a 
 pound of fat bacon. Mince all finely together, 
 and pound the mixture till it is quite smooth, 
 and whilst pounding keep adding pepper, salt, 
 and spice until it is pleasantly flavoured. The 
 quantity of salt must be regulated by the 
 quality of the bacon. Time to bake, three 
 hours.' 
 TURKEY, POTTED (another way). 
 
 Cut the flesh from a cold roast turkey, and free 
 it from skin and sinew. Weigh it, mince finely, 
 and pound it in a mortar to a smooth paste 
 with one-fourth of its weight in grated tongue 
 or ham, and an equal weight of fresh butter; 
 whilst pounding the meat keep adding salt, 
 pepper, and powdered mace in small quantities 
 at a time till it is pleasantly and rather highly 
 seasoned. When the meat is quite smooth, press 
 
 it into small pots, and cover with clarified butt.er 
 a quarter of an inch deep. Store in a copl place'. 
 Time, three - quarters of an hour or more to 
 prepare. 
 
 TURKEY POULT, COLD, TO RE-COOK. 
 
 The remains of a turkey poult may be minced, 
 made into patties, croquettes, etc., or, indeed, 
 dressed up in various ways very much like the 
 larger bird. The following will be found to be 
 the most satisfactoiy way of serving it a second 
 time. Cut the meat into neat pieces free from 
 skin, bone, and sinew. Put. the trimmings into 
 a saucepan with a pint of /vvj^te stock, a small 
 bunch of paisley, a finely-ijiiijced shallot, and 
 six mushrooms chopped small. ' Add pepper, 
 salt, and grajied liutmeg, and simmer the sauce 
 till it is pleasantly flavoured and partly reduced. 
 Strain it, thicken with a little white roux or 
 ■with flour and butter, and add an equal quan- 
 tity of new milk or cream. Stir it over, the 
 fire till it boils, put in the slices of meat, and 
 let them simmer until they are quite hot; but 
 the sauce must not boil after they are added. 
 Put the meat on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, 
 and garnish the dish with sliced lemon and 
 parsley. Time, about an hour and a quarter 
 to make the sauce ; four or five minutes to heat 
 the meat. Probable cost, if milk be used, 8d., 
 exclusive of the cold turkey poult. 
 
 TURKEY POULT, TO ROAST. 
 
 The turkey poult or young turkey is an ex- 
 cellent substitute for the fully-grown bird, as 
 it is most easily obtained in summer and 
 autumn, when the large turkeys are out of 
 season. The young ones may be said to be in 
 season whenever they are large enough to be 
 used. They may be roasted in the same way as 
 a fully-grown bird. It is not usual to fill them 
 with forcemeat, though some epicures, regard- 
 less of expense, are partial to them when stuffed 
 with truffles, and served with Perigueux sauce. 
 Tongue, bacon, or sausages are generally sent to 
 table with them. Turkey poults are trussed 
 with the head tucked under the wing, and the 
 legs twisted under like a duck, 'unlike the 
 grown bird, the feet may be left on, though the 
 claws must be cut off. A turkey poult should 
 be put down to a clear fire, liberally basted, and 
 when done enough should be served on a dish 
 garnished with water-cress. Brown gravy and 
 bread sauce should be sent to table with it. 
 Time to roast, three-quarters of an hour to an 
 hour and a half, according to size. 
 
 TURKEY POULT, TRUFFLED. 
 
 Fill the body of the bird with nicely-seasoned 
 veal forcemeat, and add as many truffles as it 
 may be wished to use, first cutting them into 
 balls the size of a walnut. The trimmings of 
 the truffles may be used to make sauce, or they 
 may be minced and mixed with the forcemeat. 
 Lard the breast of the bird, or, if this is not 
 practicable, cover with thin slices of fat bacon, 
 truss the poult firmly, and put it down before a 
 clear fire. Baste liberally, and serve truffle 
 sauce or bread sauce with it. Time to roast, 
 one hour or more, according to size. 
 
 TURKEY, PULLED. 
 
 Take the remains of a cooked turkey. Cut off 
 the legs, and score the meat on them, and the 
 
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 gizzard at regular distances. Season highly, as 
 for devilled turkey, and set tiiein aside. Re- 
 move the skin from the body, and pull the white 
 meat from the bones in long flakes with a fork. 
 Put the bones and trimmings of the turkey into 
 a stewpan with a pinch of powdered mace, a 
 finely-mineed shallot, the rind andstrained juice 
 of half a lemon, a pint of stock, and a little 
 pepper and salt. Let them simmer gently till 
 the gravy is strong and pleasantly flavoured; 
 strain and sMtn it, thicken with white roux 
 or with a little flour and butter, and add 
 a quarter of a pint of milk or cream. Let the 
 gravy boil a few minutes, then put in the meat, 
 and let it simmer again until the latter is quite 
 hot, but do not let the gravy boil after the meat 
 is added. . While the meat is simmering take the 
 legs and gizzard already seasoned, dip them in 
 clarified bvftter, and broil over a clear fire till 
 they "are lightly browned without being burnt. 
 Put the pulled turkey with the sauce into the 
 centre of a hot dish, lay the legs and gizzard 
 upon it, and serve very hot. The legs of the 
 turkey should be turned every minute whilst 
 they are being broiled. Probable cost, 6d., ex- 
 clusive of the cold turkey, , if milk is used. 
 Suificient for three or four persons. 
 
 TURKEY RISSOLES. 
 
 Take the remains of cold cooked turkey. Cut 
 oif the meat, free it from skitf and sinew, and 
 weigh it. Mince finely, and with a pound of tur- 
 key put a quarter of a pound of grated tongue 
 or leait 6am, and a quarter of a pound of finely- 
 grated bread-crumbs. Add two ounces of clari- 
 fied butter or two ounces of fat bacon finely 
 minced, a boiled onion chopped small, and a 
 little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Mix the 
 ingredients thoroughly, and bind them together 
 with the yolk of an egg. Roll out some pufl- 
 paste very thin, stamp it out in rounds, and 
 lay a spoonful of meat on each round. Moisten 
 the edges of the pastry, and draw them together 
 at the top of the meat to form a ball. Dip 
 these in beaten egg, and fry in hot fat till" they 
 are brightly browned. Drain on a sieve before 
 the fire for a few minutes to free them from fat, 
 and serve piled on a neatly - folded napkin. 
 Time, five or six minutes to fry the rissoles. 
 Probable cost. Is., exclusive of the cold turkey. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 TURKEY, ROAST. 
 
 There are several methods of preparing a 
 turkey for roasting. The bird may be simply 
 trussed like a fowl, and roasted without being 
 stuffed at all, and will be found excellent, the 
 pure flavour of the bird being then presented 
 unmixed with any taste that does not belong to 
 it. When dressed in this way it should be 
 served on a dish garnished with water-cress, 
 pnd no other sauce than its own gravy should 
 accompany it. The usual way of serving roast 
 turkey, however, is to stuff it either with veal 
 forcemeat, chestnuts, or sausage-meat, and to 
 send it to table accompanied by a string of 
 sausages, bread sauce, cranberry sauce, or 
 chestnut sauce, and brown gravy. Forcemeat 
 flavoured with oysters or mushrooms, and the 
 accompanying sauces are more suitable for 
 boiled than roast turkey. Pluck, draw, singe, 
 and truss the turkey. Tie a buttered paper 
 
 over the breast, and hang the bird before a 
 clear fire. Baste frequently whilst it is being 
 roasted. Unless this point is attended to the 
 meat will be dry and tasteless. A quarter of 
 an hour before the bird is taken down, remove 
 the paper, dredge a little flour over the breast, 
 and baste it well with cold butter. This will 
 make the froth stronger than if hot dripping is 
 used. Let it brown brightly. Garnish with 
 lemon and sausages, or forcemeat balls. Serve 
 very hot. Time for a small turkey, an hour 
 and a quarter to an hour and a half; for a 
 moderate - sized turkey weighing ten pounds, 
 about two hours; twelve to fourteen pounds, 
 about two hours and a half. Probable cost, 
 moderate-sized turkey, 8s. to 14s., excepting at 
 Christmas. 
 
 TURKEY, ROAST (another way). 
 
 Take a well-kept liut perfectly sweet young 
 hen turkey. Pluck, draw, and singe it care- 
 fully, wipe the outside with a damp cloth, wash 
 the inside, and dry it well. Fill with onion 
 forcemeat, truss securely for roasting, and ptit 
 it down to a clear fire. Baste liberally, and 
 when it is done enough, dish it, and pour over 
 it some tomato or truffle sauce. Serve very 
 hot. The onion stuffing may be made as fol- 
 lows. Skin half a dozen large onions, throw 
 them into boiling water, and boil them for g. 
 quarter of an hour. . Drain and mince them, 
 and put them into a stewpan with a quarter of 
 a pound of fresh butter, three moderate-sized 
 truffles thinly sliced, the crumb of two stale rolls 
 which have been soaked in milk and afterwards 
 squeezed till dry, a table-spoonful of shredded 
 parsley, the yolks of three eggs, and a little 
 pepper, salt, and powdered-mace. Beat these 
 ingredients thoroughly over a gentle fire until 
 they form a smooth compact mass, and the force- 
 meat will be ready for use. Time to roast a 
 small turkey, an hour and a half ; a large turkey, 
 two hours and a half. Probable cost, 8s. to 148, 
 Sufficient, a moderate-sized turkey for six or 
 seven persons. 
 
 TURKEY, ROLLED. 
 
 Cut a young turkey down the middle into two 
 parts, remove the bones without injuring the 
 skin, lay the pieces flat on the table — skin down- 
 wards — and spread over each a layer of good 
 veal forcemeat three-quarters of an inch thick. 
 Roll them up like a sausage, cover with thin 
 slices of fat bacon, and tie these on with twine. 
 Lay the rolls in a stewpan, cover with stock, 
 and put with them a bunch of parsley, a sprig 
 of thyme, two carrots, two onions in which two 
 cloves have been stuck, a parsnip, half a small 
 blade of mace, and a little pepper and salt. 
 Let them simmer gently until they are done 
 enough, and skim the liquor carefully. When 
 the bird is half-cooked a glassful of wine may be 
 added to the liquor. Rolled turkey may be 
 eaten hot or cold. If it is to be eaten hot, put 
 the rolls on a hot dish, remove the twine, strain 
 and thicken the sauce, pour part of it over the 
 meat, and send the rest to table in a tureen. 
 If it is to be eaten cold, let the rolls lie in the 
 liquor for half an hour after they are taken 
 from the fire, and when the meat is cold brush 
 over with two coats of glaze. Time to simmer 
 the rolls, one hour and a half. 
 
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 TURKEY, SAUCES FOR. 
 
 -Brown gravy and tread sauce are the usual 
 accompaniments to roast turkey. Oyster sauce, 
 celery sauce, cranberry sauce, tomato sauce, 
 mushroom, chestnut, and truffle sauce, are all 
 suitable accompaniments. Sausages are generally 
 put round the bird, with a garnish of sliced 
 lemon. Ham, tongue, bacon, or pickled pork 
 is sent to table with both roast and boiled turkey. 
 With boUed turkey, celery sauce, oyster sauce, 
 bread sauce, or white sauce should be served. 
 The nature of the sauce should, of course, be 
 : regulated by that of the forcemeat. The prepara- 
 tion of sauces tests, perhaps more than anything 
 else in the whole range of the culinary art, the 
 judgment and skill of the cook, aa success is very 
 ha,rd indeed to attain. ' 
 
 TURKEY, SLICES OF, WITH TONGUE. 
 
 Take a young turkey, draw it and truss it. Then 
 boil it in a broth of veal and chicken for forty minutes. 
 Place it in a porcelain dish, with its gravy, and let it 
 cool. Then divide into pieces and arrange them to 
 form a shape as indicated by the coloured illustration. 
 Take a cooked ox tongue, out into small pieces, and 
 pound in a mortar, then rub through a fine sieve ; 
 add two tablespoonfuls of thick cold bechamel sauce, 
 and make into a paste. Take half of this paste and 
 place it upon the pieces of turkey. To the remaining 
 half add two tablespoonfuU of aspic and three of 
 whipped cream. Place in a mould narrower at top 
 than bottom. Place on ice, and when the jelly is 
 quite set turn it out. Decorate the dish with pieces 
 of this, and with thin slices of very red tongue. 
 
 TURKEYS, FORCEMEAT FOR. 
 
 {See Forcemeat for Turkey ; Oysters, 1'oece- 
 
 MEAT OF, FOR BoiLED FoWLS OR TuRKEYS ; 
 
 Forcemeat for Turkey, Roast ; Chestnut 
 Forcemeat for Eoast Fowl ; and Forcemeat 
 OF Mushroom.) 
 
 TURKEY SOUP, ECONOMICAL. 
 
 Take the bones and trimmings of a turkey 
 (after the meat has been made into patties, or 
 rissoles, minced, pulled, or devilled) break them 
 into small pieces, put them into a stewpan with 
 any forcemeat or sauce that may be left, and 
 pour over them two quarts of stock. Bring this 
 slowly to the boil, skim carefully, and add a 
 little salt and pepper, a few sticks of celery, an 
 onion, and a carrot. Let these simmer gently 
 till the bones are quite clean. Strain the soup, 
 and free it from fat. Add further seasoning if 
 liked, and either thicken the soup with two 
 ounces of ground rice or arrowroot made into a 
 paste with a little stock and boiled up in the 
 soup, or, if a clear soup is preferred, clarify ac- 
 cording to the directions given for clarifying 
 soup. Drop a little vermicelli, or macaroni, or 
 sliced vegetables into it, let them boil a few 
 minutes, and then serve. The clarifying process 
 will not be necessary if the soup has been 
 gently simmered, thoroughly skimmed, and well 
 strained. If no stock from bones, etc., is at 
 hand, a little may be made by boiling two 
 pounds of the inferior parts of beef in five pints 
 of water for two or three hours, and in this case 
 the bones of the turkey may be stewed with the 
 beef. Or half a pound only of fresh beef may 
 be used, with a dessert-spoonful of Bovril dis- 
 solved in the liquor. Time, four hours. 
 
 TURKEY SOUP, SUPERIOR. 
 
 Take the remains of a cold boiled or roast 
 turkey, cut off the meat, mince it finely, pound 
 till smooth, and put it aside till wanted. Break 
 up the body of the bird into small pieces, put 
 these into a stewpan with two quarts of nicely- 
 flavoured white stock, and let them simmer 
 gently for one hour and a half. Strain the 
 gravy, let it cool, skim off the fat, and season 
 with salt and cayenne. Cut a quarter of a 
 pound of stale crumb of bread into thin slices, 
 soak these for a few minutes in as much of the 
 stock as they will absorb, let them simmer a few 
 minutes, and afterwards squeeze the pulp in 
 a cloth till it is quite dry. Mix this thoroughly 
 with the flesh of the turkey which was put aside, 
 add the soup gradually and smoothly to the 
 paste, and rub the whole through a fine sieve 
 with the back of a wooden spoon. - Let it boil 
 once more, add salt and csyenne as required, and 
 just before serving add a pint of boiling cream 
 or milk. If the soup is not sufficiently thick, it 
 may be made so by adding an ounce of arrowroot 
 or ground rice made into a smooth batter with 
 a little cold milk and boiled in it before the 
 cream is added. The soup ought to be of the 
 consistency of thick cream. If no white stock 
 is at hand, a little may be made as follows. 
 Divide two pounds of the scrag-end of a neck 
 of veal, or a calf's foot well cleaned, or a 
 knuckle-bone of veal, into small pieces, put them 
 into a saucepan with five pints of cold water, a 
 slice of lean ham, a carrot, a turnip, three 
 onions, a blade of mace, half a tea-spoonful of 
 peppercorns, a few outer sticks of celery, a 
 bunch of parsley, and a sprig of thyme. Let all 
 simmer gently for three hours. Strain the soup, 
 let it get cold, remove the fat, add a little salt, 
 and it will be ready for use. If there be any 
 liquor in which mutton, veal, rabbits, or 
 chickens have been boiled, it may be stewed 
 with the flavouring ingredients, without any 
 meat. Time, four hours to make the stock, 
 three hours to make the soup. Sufficient for 
 ten or twelve persons. 
 
 TURKEY, STEWED. 
 
 A small turkey should be chosen for this dish. 
 Stuff it, and truss it as for roasting. Dis- 
 solve two ounces of butter in a stewpan just 
 large enough to hold the bird, and add two 
 large slices of fat bacon cut into dice. Lay 
 the bird in this, put it over a clear fire, and 
 when it is brightly browned on one side turn 
 it upon the other. Lift it out, drain it, and 
 put it into another stewpan, with a bunch of 
 parsley, a large blade of mace, and a clove of 
 garlic or not, as preferred. Cover the bird with 
 good stock, add a little pepper and salt, and let 
 it simmer gently until it is half-cooked. Put in 
 a glassful of Madeira, and let the turkey remain 
 until done. Take it up, and put it on a 
 dish in a hot oven, that it may retain its heat 
 for a few minutes. Strain and skim the gravy, 
 thicken with a little brown thickening, and let 
 it boil a minute or two. Pour a little of it 
 round the turkey, and send the rest to table 
 in a tureen. Oyster sauce is an excellent ac- 
 companiment to this dish, and a boned and 
 pounded anchovy and a small shallot may be 
 advantageously added to the forcemeat with 
 
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 which the bird is stuffed. Time to stew the 
 turkey, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 
 6s. to 12s. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 TURKEY, STUFFED WITH CHESTNUTS. 
 
 Take as many sound chestnuts as will com- 
 pletely fill the body of the bird. Make a small 
 gash with » sharp knife in the outer skin to 
 keep them from bursting, throw them into 
 plenty of fast-boiling water, and let them boil 
 until soft. Brain and dry them, and peel off 
 the outer and the inner skin, look them over 
 carefully, and reject any decayed or mouldy 
 nuts. Fill the turkey's crop with good veal 
 forcemeat, afterwards fill the body of the bird 
 with the boiled chestnuts and the liver, and 
 sew it up securely. iPut it down to roast, and 
 baste liberally. Serve on a hot dish, and send 
 brown gravy and either bread sauce or onion 
 sauce to table with it. The brown sauce may 
 be made with turkey giblets as follows. Mince 
 the heart and gizzard, and let them simmer 
 , gently for an hour or more. Skim the liquor, 
 strain it, thicken with a little brown thicken- 
 ing, and season with pepper and salt. Add a 
 glassful of claret and a table-spoonful of mush- 
 room ketchup, let it boil a minute or two, and 
 it will be ready for serving. Time to roast the 
 .turkey, an hour and a half to two hours and a 
 half, according to size. 
 
 TURKEY, STUFFED WITH CHICKEN. 
 
 Bone a young chicken without injuring the 
 skin. Draw the legs and wings inside, fill 
 with freshly-made, nicely-seasoned sausage- 
 meat, and make the body round and compact 
 in form. Put it inside a boned turkey, fill 
 all the empty spaces with sausage-meat, and 
 truss the turkey firmly, restoring it as nearly 
 as possible to its original form. Cover with 
 buttered paper, and put it down before a clear 
 fire, though at some distance from it. Baste 
 liberally, and roast very slowly, or the inside of 
 the turkey will be done enough before the heat 
 has penetrated to the interior of the chicken. 
 This dish is a great favourite with many of the 
 English residents in Calcutta. It may be served 
 hot or cold with the usual sauces, and in carv- 
 ing the turkey slices should be cut across the 
 breast, so that each guest may have a share of 
 turkey, chicken, and forcemeat. Time, two to 
 three hours, according to the size of the birds. 
 
 WITH 
 
 MUSHROOM 
 
 TURKEY, STUFFED 
 FORCEMEAT. 
 
 Take six or eight small mushrooms, peel them, 
 put them into a saucepan with a slice of fresh 
 butter, and let them simmer gently for seven 
 or eight minutes. Drain the liquor from them, 
 and let them cool ; then mince them, and mix 
 them with a quarter of a pound of finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs. Add a slight seasoning of salt, 
 cayenne, grated nutmeg, and grated lemon-rind, 
 but be careful that the mushroom flavour is 
 not overpowered. Work an ounce of fresh 
 butter into the forcemeat, bind it together 
 with the yolk of an egg, and add as much of the 
 butter in which the mushrooms were stewed as it 
 will take without being made too moist. Pound 
 the mixture thoroughly, and it will be ready for 
 use. Pill the turkey with it, boil or roast the 
 bird, and send mushroom sauce to table with it. 
 Double this quantity of forcemeat will be re- 
 
 quired for a large turkey. Time, one hour to 
 prepare the forcemeat. 
 
 TURKEY, STUFFED WITH SAUSAGE-MEAT. 
 
 Take a well-kept turkey weighing about eight 
 pounds. Bone it according to the directions 
 previously given, and draw out all the bones 
 excepting those of the wings. Take about three 
 pounds of fine sausage-meat, and one pound of 
 veal forcemeat. If liked, sausage-meat only 
 may be used, and in this case some minced 
 herbs should be mixed with the seasoning. 
 The sausage-meat should be rich with fat, and 
 moistened with a little cold stock or water. 
 Fill the empty places where the bones have 
 been and the body of the bird with the sausage- 
 meat. Draw the turkey to its original form, 
 tie both ends of the bird and the ends of the 
 legs securely, truss the bird firmly, and plump 
 }t well (see Turkey, TBtrssED fok Roasting). 
 Flour it, tie it to the spit, instead of sticking 
 the hook into it, and let it be well supported by 
 having a string tied once or twice round the 
 body, as the stuffing will make the bird heavy. 
 Put it down to a clear fire, but at some distance 
 from it, and baste liberally until done enough. 
 When this point is reached the steam will draw 
 towards the fire. Flour and baste the bird 
 again for a few minutes, take it up, send it to 
 table on a hot dish, garnishing \yith sausage 
 and forcemeat balls. Bread sauce may be 
 served with the turkey, together with a little 
 gravy made from the bones of the bird stewed 
 down with stock, and a little seasoning. The 
 appearance of the dish will be improved if the 
 breast is evenly larded. A roasted turkey is 
 very good stuffed with sausage-meat without 
 being boned. Time to roast the turkey, nearly 
 two nours. Probable cost, turkey, 6s. to 128. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 TURKEY, TRUFFLED. 
 
 There is no dish more highly esteemed than a 
 truffled turkey. The easiest and perhaps in the 
 end the most satisfactory way of getting one is 
 to procure it from a first-class house, such as 
 V. Benoist, Ltd., of Piccadilly. It will be all 
 the better for the winter's journey, as birds so 
 stuffed are always kept for several days after 
 to allow the p'erfnme of the truffles to penetrate 
 the flesh. The cost of a turkey thus prepared 
 win vary from one to five guineas, exclusive 
 of the carriage. When once obtained, a truffled 
 turkey is easily cooked, as it simply requires 
 to be roasted, plentifully basted, and served 
 with its own gravy only, for though bread sauce 
 and onion sauce are occasionally served with it, 
 properly speaking no rival flavour ought to 
 approach the truffle. Fine fresh truffles are, 
 however, so expensive, that mushrooms or chest- 
 nuts are often substituted for them, pounded 
 with bacon in exactly the same way, and a 
 turkey thus prepared will prove to most people 
 quite as acceptable as if really truffled. When 
 it is preferred, however, that the turkey should 
 be stuffed with truffles at home, procure a 
 young, plump, freshly-killed hen turkey. Take 
 a pound and a half of truffles for a moderate- 
 sized bird, and two pounds for a large one. 
 Smell them, and reject any that are mouldy. 
 Wash them carefully, and scrub with a soft 
 brush till not a particle of earth or grit remains 
 
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 953 
 
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 ■upon them. Cut abput a pound of the truffles 
 into balls an inch and a half in diameter. Pound 
 the rest with the trimmings to a smooth paste, 
 -adding an equal weight of fat bacon. The 
 bacon should be rasped and pounded separately, 
 then mixed with the pounded truffles, and the 
 forcemeat seasoned with salt and pepper only. 
 "When the forcemeat is quite smooth mix the 
 "whole truffles with it, and put the preparation 
 into the body of the turkey. Let it hang for 
 five or six days after it is stuffed, and, when it 
 is to be roasted, lay a slice of fat loacon upon the 
 breast, and a piece of buttered paper over that, 
 and baste liberally whilst it is before the fire. 
 If it is wished that truffle sauce should accom- 
 pany this dish, a few truffles may be put aside 
 for the purpose. Truffle sauce is made as fol- 
 lows. Mince four truffles finely, put them into 
 A saucepan with a slice of fresh butter, and 
 shake them over the fire for ten minutes. Add 
 half a pint of brown sauce, a little pepper and 
 salt, and a glassful of sherry ; let these ingre- 
 dients simmer for a quarter of an hour, skim 
 off the fat, and serve. Time, roast the turkey 
 the usual time. 
 
 TURKEY, TRUFFLED ECONOMICALLY. 
 
 Take a freshly-killed, plump young turkey. 
 If large, half a pound of fine fresh truffles will 
 be required for it ; if small, a quarter or a third 
 of a pound will be sufficient. Wash and scrub 
 the truffles carefully as in the preceding recipe, 
 drain and dry them, and cut them into thin 
 slices without peeling them. Boil or roast some 
 fine sound chestnuts; the quantity must be 
 regulated by the size of the turkey. There must 
 be sufficient, with the truffles, to fill the body of 
 the bird. Before boiling them, make a little 
 cut in the outer skin of each nut to keep it 
 from bursting. When all are done, throw them 
 into slightly-salted water, and let them boil 
 quickly until tender : they will take from half 
 an hour to an hour. Skin them, mix the sliced 
 truffles with them ; then fill the body of the 
 bird with the mixture, and let the turkey hang 
 for two or three days in a cool airy situation. 
 On the day that it is to be cooked fill the crop 
 t)f the bird with good veal forceiueat, truss it 
 firmly, tie a buttered paper over the breast, and 
 roast it before a clear fire. Hang it at first some 
 distance from the fire, and baste liberally. A 
 turkey prepared as above will be sufficiently 
 flavoured with truffles to satisfy most people; 
 indeed, all but those who are excessively fond 
 of truffles. If liked, bread sauce or onion sauce 
 may be sent to table with this dish, but gener- 
 ally a truffled turkey is served with its own 
 gravy only. Time, an hour and a half to two 
 hours and a half, according to size. 
 
 TURKEY, TRUFFLED, WITH PERIGUEUX 
 SAUCE. 
 
 Pick, draw, and singe a fat hen-turkey ; scald 
 the feet to facilitate rubbing off the skin, and 
 cut off the neck, leaving the crop skin as large 
 as possible. Clean and peel three pounds of 
 truffles, arid cut them into one and a half inch 
 balls, reserving the trimmings. Put one pound 
 and a half of grated fat bacon in a frying-pan, 
 with three bay-leaves, two whole shallots, a 
 sprig of thyme, a clove of garlic, a,nd salt and 
 pepper to season. Cook the bacon till tender on 
 
 a slow fire, then let it cool ; strain it into a basin 
 containing the truffles and part of the chopped 
 truffle trimmings (the other part being reserved 
 for the Perigtfeux sauce). When quite cold, fill 
 the turkey with this stuffing, and truss it as 
 for boiling; cover it with thin slices of fat 
 bacon, and wrap it in a sheet of buttered paper. 
 Put it in a large stewpan, or braising-pan, pour 
 in three pints of mirepoix (see Mirepoix) and 
 half a bottle of Madeira. When the turkey is 
 done, drain, untie, and dish it; pour some 
 P&igueiix sauce (see Pkkigubux Sauce) over it, 
 and serve some in a boat. ' 
 
 TURKEY, TRUSSED FOR BOILING. 
 
 Pluck, singe, and draw the bird, and be par- 
 ticularly careful not to break the gall-bladder, 
 which adheres to the liver, for if any of the gall 
 touches the bird it will impart a bitter taste to 
 it. Cut off the head and neck, and leave suf- 
 ficient skin to turn and sew over the back. 
 After the forcemeat is put into the breast, cut off 
 the legs at the first joint, draw the upper part of 
 the legs into the body, and make a slit for the 
 stumps to go in. Break and flatten the breast- 
 bone, and also break the backbone, that the 
 bird may lie flat on the dish. Truss firmly, to 
 make it look as plump and round as possible. 
 Turn the pinions with the points over the back, 
 and fasten the liver (freed from gall) under one 
 pinion, and the gizzard (washed and skinned) 
 under the other. Skewer the apron over the 
 nose, and pass string firmly round the body, 
 fasten it to the skewers, and tie it in the middle 
 of the back. 
 
 TURKEY, TRUSSED FOR ROASTING. 
 
 Pluck and singe the bird, and in drawing it 
 preserve the liver and gizzard. Be particularly 
 careful not to break the gall-bag, which adheres 
 to the liver, as if any of the gall touches the 
 bird no amount of washing will remove the 
 bitter taste which it will impart. Cut off the 
 feet, and draw out the strings or sinews from 
 the thighs — there are five or six in each leg. 
 Place three or four folds of cloth on the high 
 breast-bone, and break and flatten it with a 
 rolling-pin to make the bird look plump. Cut 
 off the head and neck close to the body, and 
 before doing so push back the skin of the neck 
 so that sufficient may be left on to turn over 
 the back. Hold the legs in boiling water for a 
 minute or two, and afterwards peel off the rough 
 dirty skin. Fill the breast with forcemeat, and 
 sew the neck over the back. Press the legs 
 close to the breast, and pass a skewer through 
 them and the body. Turn the points, of the 
 wings over the back, skewer them through the 
 body, and put the liver under one pinion and 
 the gizzard under the other. Cut a slit in the 
 apron, and put the nose through. Pass a string 
 over the back of the bird, put it firmly round 
 the skewers, and tie it in the middle. Tie a 
 buttered paper over the breast, and be very 
 careful to truss the bird firmly. The liver of 
 the turkey must be freed from gall and covered 
 with a buttered paper, or it will be dry and 
 hard. The gizzard must be carefully cleansed — 
 as it contains stones — skinned and washed, 
 seasoned with pepper and salt, and, like the 
 liver, it should be guarded from the heat by 
 buttered paper. 
 
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 954 
 
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 TURKEY, TRUSSING AND CARVING OF (Dr. 
 Kitchener's observations). 
 The rules for cutting up a pheasant are in 
 all respects applicable to a turkey; whether 
 roasted or boiled, it is trussed and sent to table 
 like a fowl. In trussing it, three skewers should 
 be placed so as to admit the spit between them 
 and the back of it : these keep it firm on the 
 spit, and prevent the great weight of the 
 stuffing, etc., from making it turn irregular 
 while at the fire. One skewer should be passed 
 through the legs ; one in the middle, which con- 
 fines the wings ; and the other under the wings, 
 near the end of the merry-thought. The bcfet 
 parts of a turkey are the white ones — the breast, 
 wings, and neck-bones. The neck must be taken 
 away, and the hollow part under the breast 
 stuffed with forcemeat, which is to be cut in 
 thin slices in the direction from the rump to 
 the neck, and a slice given with each piece of 
 turkey. The breast is the only part usually cut 
 up; if more is v/anted, take off one or both 
 wings, a leg, etc. The gizzard and rump are 
 favourites with some epicures. It is called a 
 devil when well peppered, salted, and broiled; 
 many people score it with a knife before it is 
 peppered and salted. If you wish a turkey, 
 especially a very large one, to be tender, never 
 cook it till at least four or five days (in cold 
 weather, eight or ten) after it has been killed. 
 " No man who understands good living will 
 say, on such a day I will eat that turkey — but 
 ivill hang it up by four of the large tail-feathers, 
 and when, on paying his morning visit to the 
 larder, he finds it lying upon a cloth prepared 
 to receive it when it falls, that' day let it be 
 cooked." 
 
 TURKEY, WITH CELERY SAUCE. 
 
 Truss it nicely, wrap it up in layers of bacon ; 
 then boil it in water with a little salt, butter, 
 and lemon-juice. Drain it, and cover over with 
 celery sauce. (J)'ee Celeby Sauce poe Tubkeys, 
 Fowls, etc.) 
 
 TURKEY, WITH CHIPOLATA GARNISH. 
 
 Pluck, draw, and singe a plump turkey, stuff 
 and roast in the usual way. Put it on a dish, 
 and garnish with chipolata garnish (see Gab- 
 NisH, Chipolata fob). Pour a little brown 
 sauce over it, and send some more to table in 
 a tureen. A good deal of taste is required to 
 garnish this dish. Chipolata garnish is worth 
 nothing unless it is tastefully arranged. 
 
 TURKEY, WITH FOIE GRAS. 
 
 Cut the breast of a cooked turkey into slices, 
 and heat them in the gravy or sauce that has 
 been served with it. Cut some foie gras into 
 slices of the same size, and dish the two alter- 
 nately. Mask the foie gras with rich brown 
 sauce and the turkey with thick bechamel. 
 Garnish with fancy-shaped croutons, masked 
 alternately with the two sauces. 
 
 TURKEY, WITH TRUFFLES. 
 
 Take a nice fat turkey the moment it has 
 been killed; empty it, and put plenty of salt 
 inside the body to draw the blood out. Then 
 let it cool, and prepare some truffles in the 
 following manner. Take two or three pounds, 
 peel them, and smell whether they are all of a 
 good flavour, and not musty. Pick out the 
 
 smallest from amongst them, and chop them 
 very fine. Take some fat white bacon, and 
 rasp it, so as to obtain the fat only, without 
 any of the sinews. When you have rasped a 
 sufficient quantity to fill the body of the turkey, 
 put the chopped truffles with the rasped bacon 
 into the mortar, pound them, season well with 
 salt, pepper, spices, etc., then mix this with 
 large truffles, and put all in the turkey. Let 
 the turkey remain thus for two or three days 
 to acquire the flavour of the truffles; sew the 
 bird up as soon as you have finished it, and 
 when you want it roasted, put it on the spit, 
 covered with bacon on the breast and a few 
 sheets of white paper, and take grreat care when 
 you remove the paper that you do not loosen 
 the truffles. Serve with a clear Spanish sauce. 
 This dish is one of the best possible if it is 
 well seasoned and roasted. It is scarcely neces- 
 sary to observe that the carver must serve the 
 inside of the fillet, as that is one of the best 
 parts of the dish. ' 
 
 TURKISH PILAU. 
 
 A pilau, as really served in Turkey and 
 Arabia, consists simply of rice boiled as for 
 curry so that the grains are kept entire, mixed 
 with a little butter, and seasoned with pepper 
 and salt, then laid upon a dish, and stewed 
 meat placed upon it. For Western use, a pilau 
 is very good prepared as follows. Boast a 
 rabbit, a chicken, or two or three pounds of 
 mutton ; when the meat is sufficiently cooked 
 cut it into neat pieces convenient for serving, 
 and put these aside until wanted. Put the bones 
 and trimmings into a- saucepan with two ounces 
 of lean ham cut into dice, or a little blanched 
 bacon-rind, a sprig of thyme, an onion stuck 
 with two cloves, a small carrot, half a dozen 
 peppercorns, and a pint of stock or water. 
 Simmer the liquor gently, and skim carefully 
 until it is pleasantly flavoured and considerably 
 reduced. Add some salt if required. Wash 
 one pound of Patna rice, throw it into boiling 
 water for five minutes, drain it, dry itin a 
 cloth, put it into a clean saucepan with a 
 quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and stir it 
 about over a gentle fire until it is lightly and 
 equally coloured. Pour over it a pint and a half 
 of stock, and let it simmer very gently until 
 it has entirely absorbed the liquor, and is quite 
 tender and dry without the grains being broken. 
 Throw in a little salt and white pepper and a 
 tea-spoonful of curry-powder, and stir lightly 
 with a fork to separate the grains. Pile it at 
 once high on a dish, and place upon it the 
 slices of meat which, a few minutes previously, 
 have been heated but not boiled in the sauce 
 made from the bones, etc. If a fowl has been 
 used for the pilau, a table-spoonful of stewed 
 sultana raisins may be placed on the top before 
 serving. Time, about three-quarters of an hour 
 to boil the rice. Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. 
 
 TURKISH SHERBET. 
 
 Boil two pounds of loaf sugar with a pint 
 and a half of water to a clear syrup. Skim care- 
 fully, and pour it into a bowl. When cold, stir 
 it into a pint and a half of strained lemon- 
 juice, and a quart of white veal stock, clear 
 and strong. Serve in glasses. 
 
TUR 
 
 955 
 
 TUR 
 
 TURNIP. 
 
 This excellent vegetable is extensively jiaed 
 m cookery, either alone and boiled whole, 
 mashed in stews, or to flavour soups and sauces. 
 There are many varieties of the turnip. The 
 best are small, finely-grained, juicy, smooth, 
 and sound. When turnips are used for- flavour- 
 ing soups and sauces, it should be remembered 
 that the liquor in which they are boiled will 
 not keep very long, and also that turnips boiled 
 with onions will correct the very strong flavour 
 of the latter. The peel of the turnip, if tho- 
 roughly washed, will flavour soup and sauce 
 as well as the vegetable itself. Turnips are sel- 
 dom served whole, but after being boiled are 
 mashed before being sent to table. When 
 stringy they must be passed through a coarse 
 sieve. In order to mash them, press the water 
 well from them, add enough butter, salt, and 
 pepper, with a little powdered white sugar, 
 which greatly improves their flavour. A little 
 flour mixed with the butter renders the turnips 
 less watery when mashed. Turnips are in season 
 from May till February. They may be had all 
 the year round, but in spring they are only 
 useful for flavouring. 
 
 TURNIP AND POTATO SOUP. 
 
 Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, 
 and fry in it two large onions, sliced, till they 
 are brightly browned. Pour over them two 
 quarts of stock made from bones or from the 
 liquor m which meat has been boiled, and add 
 half a dozen sliced turnips, half a dozen mealy 
 potatoes, and three or four crusts of bread, 
 together with a bay-leaf and a few sticks of 
 celery if liked. Simmer all gently' together till 
 the vegetables are quite soft, rub the soup 
 through a fine sieve, and season with pepper 
 and salt. Let it boil up once more, and serve 
 very hot. Serve toasted sippets on a separate 
 dish. This soup is not likely to keep good more 
 than a day or two. Time, two hours and » 
 half. Probable cost, 3d. per pint, exclusive 
 of the stock. Sufficient for ten or twelve 
 persons. 
 
 TURNIP BROTH. 
 
 This is made witlr about a dozen turnips 
 peeled and cut into slices. Blanch them for a 
 short time in water, and drain them ; put them 
 with a knuckle of veal, a small piece of beef, 
 and the half of a hen into a stewpan ; and pour 
 some rich boiling broth over all. Let the whole 
 stew for about two hours, then strain the broth 
 through a double silk sieve, and use it with 
 rice, vermicelli, etc. etc. 
 
 TURNIP CUPS. 
 
 Boil and halve some turnips, scoop out the 
 centres, and fill with peas, carrots in dice, 
 beans, beetroot, or anything that will form 
 pleasing contrasts in colour. These can be put 
 round a dish of lamb or veal. The scooped-out 
 part can be used for a puree, and, if liked, the 
 cups put^ound it. Before filling the cups, coat 
 them with white sauce. 
 
 TURNIP RADISHES, TO BOIL. 
 
 Radishes are generally eaten raw with salads, 
 etc. The small white turnip radishes are, how- 
 ever, sometimes boiled and served as a vege- 
 table, and the ordinary long radishes, when 
 
 young, may be tied in bunches, boiled till 
 tender, and served like asparagus on toast. 
 They are good with either boiled or roast meat. 
 To boil turnip radishes proceed as follows. 
 Take the radishes when young and freshly 
 pulled. Wash them well, trim them neatly, 
 leaving about an inch of the stalks, and lay 
 them in cold water for half an hour. Drain 
 them, and throw them into plenty of boiling 
 Water slightly salted. Let them boil gently 
 till tender. Drain them, and serve in a tureen 
 with melted butter poured over them. Time to 
 boil, fifteen to twenty-five minutes. Probable 
 cost. Id. or 2d. per bunch." Sufficient, one bunch 
 for one or two persons. 
 TURNIP SOUP. 
 
 Wash and pare half a dozen turnips, and let 
 them lie in cold water for a quarter of an hour. 
 Drain them, and cut them up small. Put them 
 into a stewpan with four ounces of fresh butter 
 and three ounces of lean ham cut into dice, 
 and stir them about over a gentle fire for two 
 or three minutes. Add two or three onions and 
 one or two sticks of celery, and pour over them 
 a pint of stock rnade from bones. Let them 
 simmer gently till they are quite soft, dredge 
 two handfuls of floUr over them, and beat them 
 briskly with a wooden spoon till they are quite 
 smooth. Moisten gradually with two pints of 
 stock, and stir the soup over the fire till it 
 boils. Rub it through a fine hair sieve, let it 
 boil up again, add salt, pepper, and powdered 
 mace, and half a pint of boiling cream, and it 
 will be ready for serving. If liked, a bay-leaf 
 and two or three cloves may be stewed with the 
 other ingredients, and the flour may be omitted, 
 and a little ground rice or arrowroot substituted 
 for it. Send sippets of toast to table on a 
 separate dish. Time, two hours and a half, 
 exclusive of the stock. Sufficient for eight or 
 nine persons. Probable cost, 4d. per pint, ex- 
 clusive of the stock. 
 
 TURNIP-TOPS. 
 
 Turnip-tops are frequently used as greens. 
 When freshly cut they are very good, and they 
 have a slightly bitter taste which recommends 
 them to many. Trim oif the decayed leaves and 
 stems, and wash the greens in several waters. 
 Drain them, and throw them into a saucepan 
 with plenty of boiling water slightly salted. 
 Keep the saucepan uncovered, and let them boil 
 quickly till they are quite tender. When done 
 enough, put them into a colander, and squeeze 
 the water gently from them. Turn them into a 
 hot vegetable-dish, pepper them lightly, and 
 spread a little butter on them ; cut the surface 
 across both ways with a knife, and serve. If 
 any of these greens are left, they may be served 
 up again after being finely chopped and heated 
 in a saucepan with butter and salt. Time to 
 boil, from fifteen to twenty minutes. Prob- 
 able cost — generally very cheap — Id. or 2d. 
 per pound. Sufficient, two pounds for three or 
 four persons. 
 TURNIPS (au Beurre). 
 
 Put some young turnips into a stewpan with 
 four ounces of salt butter and a lump of sugar. 
 Simmer gently until soft, add a little pepper, 
 and serve in the sauce they were cooked in, 
 with a little chopped parsley strewn over. 
 
TUR 
 
 956 
 
 TUR 
 
 TURNIPS, BOILED. 
 
 Turnips should only be served whole when 
 they are very young, and then they should .be 
 covered with white sauce. When they have 
 reached any size they should be mashed. Pare 
 the turnips, and wash them ; if very young a 
 little of the green top may be left on; if very 
 large they should be divided into halves or even 
 quarters. Throw them into slightly-salted 
 water, and let them boil gently till tender. 
 Drain, and serve them. Time to boil, old tur- 
 nips, three-quarters of an hour to an hour and 
 a half; young turnips, fifteen to twenty-five 
 minutes. Probable cost, 5d. to 7d. per bunch. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 TURNIPS, BOILED AND SERVED WITH SAUCE. 
 
 Boil the turnips as in the last recipe. Put 
 them in a tureen, grate a little nutmeg over 
 them, and cover with good melted butter. If 
 preferred, omit the nutmeg, and stir, a spoon- 
 ful of freshly-mixed mustard into the sauce 
 before pouring it over the vegetables. Turnips 
 served in this way may be sliced, cut into dice, 
 or turned into any fanciful shapes before being 
 boiled. Time to boil, twenty minutes to an 
 hour and a half according to age and size. 
 Probable cost, 6d. per bunch, Sufficient for five 
 or SIX persons. 
 
 TURNIPS, BROWN PUREE OF. 
 
 Instead of blanching the turnips, sweat them 
 on a slow fire in a little butter. Take care they 
 do not bum When they are well done, moisten 
 with three spoonfuls of sauce tournee and one 
 spoonful of veal gravy. Give them a good 
 seasoning, rub them through a tamis, and send 
 up with fried toasts ol bread. Never omit 
 putting in a small lump of sugar before you 
 serve up, to overcome the bitter taste of the 
 turnips. Such entremets are not much approved 
 of in England, but in winter, and in the 
 country, you very often have no choice for 
 second courses. 
 
 TURNIPS, FOR GARNISH. 
 
 Very effective-looking flowers for garnishing 
 cold dishes such as roast turkeys, tongues, etc., 
 may be made with turnips. Skill in making 
 these can only be acquired by practice, and in 
 order to attain it the best plan would be to 
 procure a small sound turnip, a sharp penknife, 
 a little liquid cochineal, a paint brush, and a 
 real camellia, or any other suitable flower, as 
 a pattern. Cut and shape the turnip, and 
 «ndeavour to imitate the real flower as closely 
 as possible. Paint the edges of the leaves a 
 rosy tint with the cochineal, push in a little 
 piece of stick for a stalk, and fasten two or 
 three bay-leaves round the flower. 
 
 TURNIPS, FOR GARNISH (another way). 
 
 When turnips are to be used for garnishing 
 dishes they may be prepaired either white or 
 coloured. Pare the thick skin from them, wash 
 and drain them, and eithier cut them into slices 
 of uniform size, or turn them to any shape that 
 may be desired. Throw them into boiling 
 water, let them boil quickly for five minutes, 
 then drain and dry them. If white turnip gar- 
 nish is required, put the blanched turnips Into 
 a saucepan, cover with boiling stock, add a 
 small lump of sugar and a little salt and 
 
 cayenne, and let them simmer gently until they 
 are tender without being broken. Let them 
 remain in the stock till they are wanted. If 
 brown turnip garnish is to be used, prepare 
 the turnips, and blanch them as before. Dis- 
 solve an ounce of butter in a frying-pan, throw 
 in the turnips, and shake them over a gentle 
 fire till they are lightly browned. Drain them, 
 and if not sufficiently .tender stew them for a 
 few minutes longer before serving. Time, 
 about ten minutes to colour the turnips, twenty 
 minutes to stew them. Probable cost, turnips, 
 5d. to 7d. per bunch. 
 
 TURNIPS, FRENCH. 
 
 These are more of the shape of English carrots 
 than of ordinary turnips ; their flavour is superior 
 to that of the latter, and when used for flavoair- 
 ing purposes they should be added cautiously, 
 or the taste may be too " turnipy." They take 
 some time to cook, much longer than might be 
 thought, judging from appearances only. A 
 good deal of the flavour lies in the peel ; there- 
 fore, when used for flavouring, they should be 
 washed and scraped, not peeled. Probable cost, 
 about 6d. per bunch. 
 
 TURNIPS, FRIED. 
 
 Boil three or four turnips, till they are three- 
 parts dressed. Take them up, drain them, cut 
 them into slices, and fry these in hot fat till 
 they are lightly browned and quite tender. 
 Drain them, and serve with fried or boiled 
 cutlets. Or, peel them and cut them into very 
 thin slijes. Let these lie in cold water for an 
 hour, then drain them. Dissolve a slice of 
 butter in a stewpan, and in this steam a table- 
 spoonful of" chopped onion for five minutes. 
 Put in the slices of turnip, sprinkle a little 
 pepper and salt over, and let them steam till 
 they are soft. A spoonful or two of water may 
 be added if there is any fear that they will burn. 
 
 TURNIPS, GLACES. 
 
 Select a few fine turnips; turn, in the shape 
 of pears, a sufficient number to cover or to fill 
 the dish; stew them in a small quantity of 
 broth with a little sugar, reduce the liquor to 
 glaze. When equally covered, dish the turnips; 
 take a spoonful of Spanish sauce to detach the 
 glaze that remains in the stewpan, with a small 
 piece of butter twice as big as a walnut, which 
 work with the sauce. Season it well and pour it 
 over the turnips. 
 
 TURNIPS, GLAZED, WITH GRAVY. 
 
 Pare four or five large turnips, wash and drain 
 them, and cut them into slices of uniform size, 
 or turn them into a ball or pear shape. Dissolve 
 in a deep saucepan as much fresh butter as will 
 cover the bottom of the pan, throw in the tur- 
 nips, and fry till they are brightly browned. 
 Drain the butter from them, and pour over 
 as much good stock -as will cover them. Let 
 them simmer gently until they are nearly tender. 
 Remove the lid, put the saucepan over a quick 
 fire, and let the sauce boil quickly until it 
 begins to thicken. Take the turnips up, being 
 careful not to break them, arrange neatly on 
 a dish, and pour the gravy over them. Time, 
 about twenty minutes to simmer .the turnips. 
 Probable cost, turnips, 5d. to 7d. per bunch. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
TUR 
 
 957 
 
 TUR 
 
 TURNIPS, GLAZED, WITH WHITE OR BROWN 
 SAUCE. 
 
 Take five or six small, sound, white turnips. 
 Peel and wash them, and turn them to the size 
 and shape of toy-marbles. Dissolve two ounces 
 of fresh butter in a, deep pan, and sprinkle an 
 ounce of pounded sugar into it. Put in the 
 turnips, and fry till they are covered with glaze. 
 Pour over them a quarter of a pint of good 
 white or brown sauce, and let them simmer 
 gently until tender. Season with pepper and 
 salt. Arrange the turnips in a dish, pour the 
 sauce over, and serve very hot. 
 
 TURNIPS IN WHITE SAUCE. 
 
 Peel some small turnips, as nearly as possible 
 the same size, boil them in milk and water till 
 tender; drain and cover with white sauce in 
 which a table-spoonful of grated cheese has been 
 mixed. Sprinkle a little minced parsley over, 
 and serve. 
 
 TURNIPS, LARGE, STUFFED. 
 
 Boil whole four or five large turnips. Take 
 them up, drain them, cut a slice from the top, 
 and scoop out the middle. Beat the pulp which 
 has been taken out with a little butter, flour, 
 pepper, salt, and cream, andT add the yolk of 
 an egg. Fill the empty spaces with the mix- 
 ture, put the tops on again, and brush the tur- 
 nips over with beaten egg. Brown them in a 
 brisk oven, or before the fire, and serve very hot. 
 Time to boil, from three-quarters of an hour to 
 an hour and a half. Probable cost. Is. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 
 TURNIPS, MASHED. 
 
 Wash and pare the turnips, and- throw them 
 into cold water as they are done. Drain, and 
 throw them into a saucepan with slightly-salted 
 boiling water. Keep them covered, and let 
 them boil till tender. Drain them by placing 
 them in a bowl and pressing a plate upon them 
 to squeeze out the moisture. Mash well, and 
 carefully remove any stringy portions there 
 may be among them. If necessary, pass them 
 through a colander or a wire sieve. Mix with 
 them a little pepper and salt, a slice of butter, 
 and a table-spoonful or two of cream or milk. 
 Stir the pulp over the fire until it is hot and 
 quite dry. Serve very hot. Time to boil, three- 
 quarters of an hour to. an hour and a half. 
 Probable cost, 5d. to 7d. per bunch. Sufftcient, 
 one bunch for five or six persons. 
 
 TURNIPS, PUREE OF. 
 
 Pare and wash half a dozen large sound tur- 
 nips, and split them into halves, or even into 
 quarters. Boil them till they are very tender, 
 and press the water thoroughly from them. 
 Pass them through a hair sieve, and put them 
 back into the saucepan. Dredge a small quan- 
 tity of flour over them, and add a little white 
 pepper and salt, a slice of butter, half a tea- 
 spoonful of white sugar, and a quarter of a 
 pint of cream or milk. Stir them over the fire 
 until they are quite dry and stiff. Serve the 
 puree tn the centre of a dish, and arrange cut- 
 lets, etc., neatly round it. Sonie cooks add a 
 little grated nutmegor a little powdered ginger 
 to turnip puree. Time to simmer with the 
 cream, about ten minutes; to boil, from three- 
 quarters of an hour to an hour and a half. 
 
 according to age and size. Probable cost, 6d. 
 per bunch. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 TURNIPS, STEWED {k la Franfaise). 
 
 Peel and wash half a dozen turnips, and boil 
 them in salted water till tender. Take them 
 up, drain them, and in the water in which they 
 have been boiled simmer gently a cupful of 
 bread-crumbs for five or six minutes. Wash the 
 turnips, and put them into another saucepan 
 with the boiled bread and a little "butter and 
 pepper. Stir over a gentle fire till they are 
 quite hot, and mix with them the yolk of an 
 egg beaten up with two table-spoonfuls of 
 milk. Let them stew gently a minute or two 
 longer, and serve very hot. Turnips prepared 
 thus are very good as an accompaniment to 
 boiled mutton, veal, or poultry. Tinle, three- 
 quarters of an hour to an hour and a half to 
 boil the turnips. Probable cost, 5d. to 7d. per 
 bunch. Sufficient for five .or six persons. 
 
 TURNIPS, STEWED IN GRAVY. 
 
 Pare and wash the turnips, and cut them into 
 small square pieces, or turn them to the shape 
 of balls or pears. Put them into a saucepan, 
 pour over them as much boiling gravy as will 
 cover them, and add a little salt and pepper and 
 a small lump of sugar. Let them simmer gently 
 until they are tender. Put them in a hot dish, 
 pour the gravy over them, and serve very hot. 
 Time to stew, three-quarters of an hour or more, 
 according to age. Probable cost, 6d. per bunch. 
 
 TURNIPS, WHITE PUREE OF. 
 
 If you want to make a very white puree, you 
 must mince the tHrnips, blanch them in boiling 
 water, and drain and sweat them over a very 
 slow fire in a little butter to prevent their 
 getting brown. When they are done enough, 
 add two or three spoonfuls of bechamel, strain 
 them like a puree through a tamis, reduce, and 
 serve surrounded with fried toasts of bread. 
 If they are for entremets, the puree must be 
 thicker; if for garnishing entrees, richer and 
 more tasty. 
 
 TURNIPS, WITH WHITE SAUCE. 
 
 Prepare the turnips and stew them in gravy, 
 and when they are quite tender lift them 
 out without breaking them, drain them, and 
 put them in a tureen. Have a tea-spoonful 
 of arrowroot already mixed smoothly with a 
 quarter of a pint of cream or milk. Mix the 
 gravy gradually with this, put it back into the 
 saucepan, and let it boil. Take it from the 
 fire for a few minutes, stir half an ounce of cold 
 butter into it : when this is dissolved pour the 
 sauce over the turnips, and serve very hot. 
 Time to stew the turnips, three-quarters of an 
 hour or more, according to age and size. Prob- 
 able cost, turnips, 5d. to 7d. per bunch. Suf- 
 ficient, half a bunch of turnips for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 TURNIPS, YOUNG. 
 
 Wash and peel a dozen young turnips, and 
 put them into a saucepan with a pint of milk ; 
 add a little pepper and salt, and let them sim- 
 mer gently. When they are half-dressed, put 
 with them half an ounce of butter rolled in 
 flour. Serve very hot. Time to simmer the 
 turnips, about half an hour. 
 
TUR 
 
 958 
 
 TUR 
 
 TURNIPS, YOUNG, STEWED IN BUTTER. 
 
 Take two pounds of mild young turnips, cut 
 them into small squares, or turn them to any 
 shape that may he preferred. Dissolve two 
 ounces of fi^esh butter in a saucepan sufficiently 
 large to hold the vegetables in a single layer. 
 Put in the turnips, and simmer them very gently 
 until they are tender without being broken. 
 A few minutes before they are done enough, 
 sprinkle a little salt and white pepper over 
 them. Put them in the centre of a dish, and 
 arrange fried or broiled cutlets neatly round 
 them. Time, three-quarters of an hour to an 
 hour to stew the turnips. Probable cost, 6d. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 TURNOVERS. 
 
 Make some good pastry, roll it out to the 
 thickness of a quarter of an inch, and stamp 
 it in rounds from four to seven inches in dia- 
 meter, lay fresh fruit and sugar, or jam, on 
 one half of the pastry, moisten the edges, and 
 turn the other half right over. Press the edges 
 closely, ornament them in any way, and brush 
 the turnovers with white of egg. Sprinkle a 
 little powdered sugar over them, and bake on 
 tins in a brisk oven. Serve on a dish covered 
 with a neatly-folded napkin. Time to bake, 
 fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost. Id. 
 each. Sufficient, one pound of pastry will make 
 two dozen turnovers. 
 
 TURQUE MUTTON 
 
 Take some veal stuffing, and to half a 
 pound add two ounces of chopped suet and 
 raisins, and a tea^-spoonful of curry powder; 
 mix well and lay on a loin of mvitton, boned 
 and freed from most of the fat. Sprinkle with 
 some lean bacon, about four ounces, in thin 
 strips, roll up tightly, bind, and roast well. 
 It must be basted often. When done, take it 
 up and make some gravy in the usual way, but 
 with a table-spoonful of sherry and a tea-spoon- 
 ful of extract of meat to half a pint. Have 
 ready some Rice a la Turque. Put the meat 
 on a very hot dish with the rice round it. 
 Sprinkle the surface with chopped capsicums 
 and a few shreds of saffron, and strew two or 
 three ounces of sultana raisins over, first stew- 
 ing them in a small quantity of stock for 
 twenty minutes. Send the gravy to the table 
 separately. 
 
 Cost, variable. 
 
 TURTLE. 
 
 The turtle, or sea tortoise, is found in most 
 -of the seas of warm climates. The green turtle 
 is the variety used for making the celebrated 
 turtle soup which forms such a noted feature 
 of municipal feasts, hundreds of quarts being 
 served every year at the Lord Mayor's dinner. 
 This soup is so expensive, and also so difficult 
 to prepare, that it is seldom made in private 
 houses ; if it is wante(J, it is bought ready- 
 made, the cost being a guinea a quart. The 
 turtles from which soup is made in England are 
 sent alive from the West Indies. 
 
 Turtle vary in weight from about thirty 
 pounds to one hundred and fifty pounds, and 
 In price from Is. to 2s. per pound accord- 
 ing to the state of the market. Many 
 cooks use the <^\nned turtle instead of the 
 
 live turtle. The most convenient way of making 
 a small quantity of turtle soup is to use dried 
 turtle, which may be bought of any respectable 
 Italian 'warehouseman, at a cost of about lOs. 
 per pound. {See Tubtle Soup, feom Dried 
 TuBTLE Flesh.) 
 
 TURTLE FISH. 
 
 Take equal quantities of fresh ling, haddock, 
 or codling, and of skate, cut the fish into neat 
 slices, wash and clean them, and fry them in 
 hot fat till they are lightly browned. Drain 
 them, and stew them in good gravy thickened 
 with flour and butter, and seasoned vrather 
 highly with salt and cayenne. Add the meat 
 of a lobster and a dozen, or more oysters with 
 their liquor. A little wine may be added or 
 not. Serve the preparation in a soup tureen. 
 A couple of cods' sounds, stewed in spinach- 
 juice till they are coloured green, and after- 
 wards cut into neat squares and put into the 
 gravy, may be added to the preparation, as an 
 imitation of the green fat of the turtle. Time, 
 altogether, about three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 TURTLE SAUCE (to serve with Calf's Head). 
 
 Thicken a pint of beef or veal gravy with a 
 tea-spoonful of brown thickening, and flavour 
 it with two table-spoonfuls of turtle store sauce 
 and half a tea-spoonful of the essence of an- 
 chovy. Let it boil, and it will be ready for 
 serving. If the store sauce is not at hand, 
 mince a shallot finely, and put it into the 
 thickened gravy with half a tea-spoonful of 
 essence of anchovy, three or four leaves of fresh 
 basil, the strained juice and thinly-cut rind of 
 half a lemon, a pinch of cayenne, and a glassful 
 of sherry. Simmer the sauce gently for a few 
 minutes till it is pleasantly flavoured, strain 
 through a fine sieve, and it will be ready for 
 serving. Time to simmer the sauce, five or six 
 minutes. Sufficient for eight or nine people. 
 
 TURTLE SOUP. 
 
 Before making turtle soup it is necessary to 
 have several large pans and plenty of hot water 
 ready for use. Take a turtle weighing about 
 fifty pounds. Cut off the head, hang the body 
 up by the hind fins, and let it drain all night. 
 Cut off the fins at the joints, and divide the cali- 
 pash or upper shell from the calipee or lower shell 
 by pressing heavily upon it and cutting round 
 it about two inches from the edge. Xet the 
 water, etc., drain from it,, and remove and throw 
 away the intestines, carefully preserving, how- 
 ever, any fat that may be near them. Cut the 
 flesh oft' along the spine, and let the knife slope 
 towards the bones for fear of breaking the gall, 
 which must on no account be allowed to touch 
 the flesh, and which should be thrown quite away 
 as soon as it is found. Cut off all the flesh 
 from the members and let them drain. In cut- 
 ting up the turtle remember to keep the green 
 fat separate from the rest that its colour may be 
 preserved. It is most highly prized by epicures. 
 Throw the heart, lights, liver, and kidney into 
 cold water. Put the calipash and calipee,_ the 
 head and the feet, into a large vessel of boiling 
 water, and let them simmer gently for a few 
 minutes until the fins can be peeled and the 
 shell scraped. Boil the back and the breast a 
 little longer till the bones can be taken out. 
 Cut out the soft meat, divide it into pieces an 
 
TUR 
 
 959 
 
 TUR 
 
 iuch square, and place these in a single layer 
 between two dishes to cool. Put the heart, 
 liver, lights, and kidneys with the bones into 
 a fresh saucepan, pour over them the stock 
 in which the meat was blanched, and let them 
 stew gently for three hours. Afterwards pour 
 the liquor off and let it cool. Take a large 
 clean saucepan. Put into it two pounds of lean 
 ham cut small, twelve pounds at leg of veal 
 broken up, and over these the fins, the head, 
 and the inside flesh of the turtle. Pour over 
 them some good stock, and let them simmer 
 gently until the sauce is very much reduced. 
 Push a skewer into the thick part of the meat, 
 and when blood no longer exudes from the flesh 
 add the liquor which was poured off, and sim- 
 mer all gently together until the meat is tender. 
 Take it out, and set it aside. When the liquor 
 from the bones is put into the stock the follow- 
 ing ingredients may also be added. Two large 
 haudfuls of parsley, a large bunch of mixed 
 sweet herbs — thyme, marjoram, basil, and 
 savory, an onion stuck with four cloves, three 
 bay-leaves, and half a dozen mushrooms if ob- 
 tainable. Simmer the soup till it is pleasantly 
 flavoured, strain it, set it aside, or if preferred, 
 rub the vegetables through a sieve. Dissolve 
 lialf a pound of butter in a stewpan. Mix 
 four table-spoonfuls of flour smoothly with it, 
 and beat it quickly with the back of a wooden 
 spoon over the fire until it is brightly browned. 
 Add the liquor gradually, and let the soup boil. 
 Draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and 
 carefully remove the fat, oil, and white scum 
 which rise to the surface. Put the pieces of 
 meat, which were set aside to cool, into the 
 soup, let them simmer gently for an hour, and 
 continue to remove the scum as it rises. Take 
 four table-spoonfuls of parsley, four table- 
 spoonfuls of minced shallot, one table-spoonful 
 each of thyme, marjoram, savory, and sweet 
 basil, a whole nutmeg, grated, a blade of mace, 
 a dozen allspice, four cloves, a table-spoonful of 
 pepper and sa,lt, and a pinch of cayenne. Put 
 these seasoning ingredients into a delicately- 
 olean saucepan with four ounces of fresh butter, 
 and let them simmer gently until the butter is 
 dissolved, add a small lump of sugar, a pint 
 or two of good Madeira, and a little stock, and 
 simmer them gently for an hour. Kiib them 
 through a fine sieve, and add the seasoning 
 liquor to the soup. Let it boil again until no 
 more scum rises. Put the quenelles, which are 
 used as substitutes for turtles' eggs, into the 
 soup ten minutes before serving, and add 
 the strained juice of one or two lemons just 
 before sending the soup to table. When once 
 turtle soup is made it should not be boiled in 
 order to heat it, as this gives it a strong taste,_ 
 but it should be warmed in a bain-marie. To 
 make the quenelles for the soup, see Ttjbtlb 
 Soup, Fobcemeat Quenelles for. Time, 
 several hours. Turtle soup should always be 
 made the day before it is wanted. Probable 
 cost, 10s. to 15s. per quart. Sufficient, one quart 
 for six or seven persons. 
 
 TURTLE SOUP, FORCEMEAT QUENELLE3 FOR. 
 Take a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, 
 soak them in milk for a short time, and after- 
 wards wring them in a cloth to squeeze the 
 moisture from them. Take a quarter of a pound 
 
 of lean veal from the fillet, scrape it into pieces 
 with a knife, pound it in a marble mortar till it 
 is quite smooth, and rub it through a sieve. 
 Mix it with the bread-crumbs, and add half 
 an ounce of butter, a salt-spoonful of salt, 
 a pinch of cayenne, a tea-spoonful of chopped 
 parsley;, and half a nutmeg grated. Pound 
 these ingredients together till they are tho- 
 roughly mixed and quite smooth, then add the 
 yolks of three eggs boiled hard and the 
 yolks of two raw eggs. Dredge a little flour on 
 the table, and roll out the preparation. Make 
 it into balls the size of a small nutmeg, throw 
 these into boiling water slightly salted, and let 
 them boil till they are hard. Drain them on a 
 sieve, and put them into the soup a few minutes 
 before serving. They are supposed to represent 
 the eggs of the turtle. Tinle to boil, six minutes. 
 Probable cost. Is. 2d. for this quantity. Suf- 
 ficient, one forcemeat ball for each guest. 
 TURTLE SOUP, FROM DRIED TURTLE FLESH. 
 Three or four days before the soup is wanted, 
 buy a quarter of a pound of dried turtle flesh. 
 Soak it in lukewarm water three days and three 
 nights. Change the water every twelve hours, 
 and if a slightly unpleasant odour arises from 
 the flesh, rub it lightly over with salt. Whilst 
 the soaking process is going on keep the basin 
 containing the turtle in a warm place, and 
 during the night let it stand in a cool oven. 
 For the last twe.lve hours let the water in 
 wh^h it is soaked be of a good warmth. When 
 the meat has been soaked till it has lost its 
 gluey appearance, and is swollen and compara- 
 tively soft, cut it into neat pieces two inches 
 square, and boil these gently for twelve hours in 
 strong stock prepared as follows. Put a slice 
 of lean, uncooked ham into a gallon saucepan 
 with a pound and a half of gravy beef, a pound 
 and a half of knuckle of veal, two onions, each 
 one with three cloves stuck into it, a head of 
 celery, a small turnip and carrot, as much 
 parsley as will fill a teacup, three tea-spoonfuls 
 of dried marjoram, three tea-spoonfuls of dried 
 basil, one or two mushrooms if they are at 
 hand, half a tea-spoonful of lemon thyme, half 
 a salt-spoonful of pennyroyal, a small tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and a small pinch of cayenne. 
 If any chicken bones or pieces of cold roast 
 meat are at hand, they may be added to the 
 rest. Fill the saucepan with cold water, simmer 
 the soup very gently for twelve hours, and re- 
 move the scum as it rises. The soup must on no 
 account be left in the saucepan all ni^ht; but 
 if the simmering is not finished at night the 
 soup must be ppufed out into a basin, set in a 
 cool place, and put on the fire again next day. 
 When the soup has been reduced to two quarts, 
 strain carefully, and remove the fat with scru- 
 pulous care. Get a pound and a half of fresh 
 eels, cut them into pieces two inches long, and 
 boil these in the stock. When they are tender, 
 lift them out of the stock, and again strain it 
 by passing it through a jelly-bag two or three 
 times; if necessary, clear it with white of egg. 
 When it is clear put in the ;pieces of turtle 
 flesh, and boil them gently till they are as 
 tender as well-cooked calf's head. At the last 
 moment add a claret-glassful of good Madeira 
 or good golden sherry. Pour the soup into the 
 tureen, add a few drops of lemon-juice, and it 
 
TUR 
 
 960 
 
 TUR 
 
 will be ready for serving. li it is necessary to 
 clarify the soup, whisk the white of an egg with 
 a cupful of cold water. Stir this briskly into 
 the soup when it is just warm, let it boil, and 
 gently lift off the scum as it rises. Draw the 
 saucepan to the side, and let the soup simmer 
 gently for half an hour. Let it stand a quarter 
 of an hour to settle, and strain through a jelly- 
 bag. If the soup has been gently simmered and 
 carefully skimmed, it will most likely need only 
 to be passed two or three times through a jelly- 
 bag. If thick soup is preferred to clear soup, 
 moisten a table-spoonful of brown thickening 
 with a small portion of the soup. When it is 
 quite smooth, pour it into the saucepan, and 
 stir till it boils. When this thickening is used, 
 it will be necessary to let the saucepan stand 
 by the side of the fire with the lid on for a short 
 time, that the lat may rise to the surface and 
 be removed. The eels which are stewed in the 
 stock may be served as eel souchet, and will 
 make a good dish. As the pieces of eel are 
 taken out of the soup, throw them into a pan 
 of boiling water for one minute, Lay them 
 in a dish with as much boiling water as will 
 cover them, put with them one or two sprigs of 
 fresh parsley, and send brown bread and butter 
 to table with them. Time, four or five days to 
 prepare the soup. Probable cost, turtle flesh, 
 10s. per pound. Sufficient for three pints of 
 soup. 
 TURTLE SOUP, FROM TINNED TURTLE, 
 
 When the turtle is not sent alive to its des- 
 tination, it is killed as soon as it is caught, put 
 into tins hermetically sealed, and then used 
 for making soup. In this case the stock should 
 be prepared and seasoned as for turtle soup, and 
 the tinned meat, which is in a ]elly, should be 
 cut up and stewed in the stock. Turtle soup 
 thus prepared requires to be seasoned rather 
 highly, and a few mushrooms or truffles should 
 be used in the flavouring, in order to take away 
 the taste of the tin. Probable cost, uncertain. 
 Sufficient for five or six quarts of soup, 
 
 TURTLE SOUP, MOCK. 
 
 Put into a stewpan three pounds of fillet of 
 veal, and three pounds of leg of beef, in one and 
 a half inch square pieces, with three-quarters of 
 a pound of butter, six onions, and a bouquet 
 garni. Stir till of a light brown colour ; dredge 
 in six ounces of flour, add four quarts of stock 
 and a pint of Madeira, salt and pepper. Stir 
 till boiling ; add half a calf's head, previously 
 boned, and boil for three hours. Strain the 
 broth, and simmer for one hour, skimming fre- 
 quently. Take out the head, cut it into inch 
 squares, and add it again to the soup before 
 serving. 
 
 TURTLE SOUP, MOCK (another way). 
 
 Take half a calf's head with the skin on. 
 Remove the brains, and lay them aside ; wash 
 the head in several waters, and let it soak in 
 cold spring water for an hour. Put it into a 
 stewpan, cover with cold water, let it boil 
 gently for an hour, and carefully remove the 
 scum as it rises. Cut the meat from the bones, 
 and divide it with the tongue into small neat 
 squares of about an inch. Let these cool, put 
 them into a saucepan, cover with two quarts 
 of stock, and let them boil gently until they 
 
 are tender without being overdone. Melt four 
 ounces of butter in a saucepan, and put in 
 three ounces of lean, uncooked ham cut into 
 dice, a sliced carrot, two table-spoonfuls of 
 chopped parsley, a table-spoonful of mixed 
 sweet herbs, of which two - fifths shall be 
 sweet marjoram, two-fifths basil, and one-fifth 
 thyme, two chopped onions, and one or two 
 chopped mushrooms when they are to be had. 
 Stir these over the fire for two or three minutes, 
 then pour over them a pint of stock, and let 
 them simmer gently for two hours. Moisten 
 two table-spoonfuls of flour with a little cold 
 stock, and add this to the seasoning stock. Let 
 it boil; add the remainder of the stock, and 
 rub the soup through a fine hair sieve. Put it 
 back into the saucepan with the pieces of meat, 
 boil all gently together for a few minutes, add 
 a glassful of wine, a table-spoonful of lemon- 
 juice, and salt and pepper if required. Have 
 the forcemeat balls ready prepared, put them 
 into the tureen, pour the soup over them, and 
 serve very hot. Time, six or seven hours. 
 Sufficient for twelve persons or more. 
 TURTLE SOUP, MOCK, BRAIN BALLS FOR, 
 
 Wash the brains in two or three waters, and 
 free them from skin and fibre. Throw them 
 into boiling water, and let them boil for ten 
 minutes. Take them up, and put them into 
 cold water for a minute or two. Afterwards 
 drain them, and pound them in a mortar with 
 a tea-spoonful of chopped sage, or a little, 
 savory, or lemon thyine, and pepper, salt, and 
 grated nutmeg. Bind the mixture together 
 with the yolk of an egg, make it up into small 
 balls the size of a child's marble, dip these 
 twice into beaten egg, and bread-crumbs, and 
 fry in hot fat till they are brightly browned. 
 Drain them, and add them to the soup. Time, 
 two or three minutes to fry the. balls. Probable 
 cost, 4d. for this quantity, exclusive of the 
 brains. Sufficient, one brain ball to each guest. 
 TURTLE SOUP, MOCK, CLEAR. 
 
 Prepare, soak, and parboil the head as in last 
 recipe but one. Cut the meat into neat squares, 
 and set these aside, simmer the herbs and vege- 
 tables in a pint of stock for two hours, and 
 afterwards strain this through a tamis ; the flour 
 must, of course, be omitted. Add it to the rest 
 of the stock, and clarify this by stirring into it 
 when cool the whites of two eggs mixed with a 
 little water, whisking it over the fire till it 
 boils, boiling gently for half an hour, letting 
 it stand to settle for a quarter of an hour, then 
 straining it through a jelly-bag till it is clear. 
 Put the pieces of calf's head into the soup, boil 
 them gently till tender, add a glassful of good 
 wine and a little lemon-juice, and serve very 
 hot with a few quenelles. 
 
 TURTLE SOUP, MOCK, CURRY BALLS FOR. 
 
 Eub a piece of butter the size of a walnut 
 into a handfu\ of finely-grated bread-crumbs, 
 and add the yolk of an egg boiled hard. Pound 
 the mixture in a mortar to a smooth paste, 
 season with curry-powder, andjnake it up into 
 small balls the size of a nutmSf. Throw these 
 into boiling water till firm, drain and serve 
 them in the soup. Time to boil, two minutes. 
 Probable cost, 3d. for this quantity. At least 
 one ball should be served to each guest. 
 
961 
 
 TUR 
 
 TURTLE SOUP, MOCK (easy way of making a 
 small quantity). 
 Take some stock made from bones or the 
 liquor in which meat has been boiled. Boil it 
 with fresh vegetables, herbs, and spices till it 
 is pleasantly flavoured, and strain carefully. 
 Procure a tin of mock turtle soup. Boil this 
 up with a little more than an equal quantity 
 of the flavoured stock. When it is quite hot 
 throw a claret-glassful of Madeira or good sherry 
 into it, and serve very hot with one or two 
 cut lemons on a dish. The mixture of the 
 stock made from fresh vegetables with the pre- 
 served soup will correct the slight taste of the 
 tin, which is the only objection which can be 
 urged against it, and when a small quantity 
 only of soup is required it will save time, 
 trouble, and expense to make it in this way, 
 rather than to prepare it at home. When there 
 is no stock in the house, the vegetables and 
 seasoning may be boiled in water, but, of 
 course, the soup will not be so good as if stock 
 were used. Time, one hour to flavour the stock. 
 Probable cost, a tin of mock turtle. Is. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 TURTLE SOUP, MOCK, EGG BALLS FOR. 
 
 Boil four eggs till they are hard. Put them 
 into cold water, and when they are cold pound 
 the yolks in a mortar with a tea-spoonful of 
 flour, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, half a 
 tea-spoonful of salt, and a pinch of cayenne. 
 Moisten the mixture with the yolk of a raw 
 egg. Form it into balls the size of a small 
 nutmeg, throw these into boiling water, let 
 them boil for two minutes, drain them on a 
 sieve, and serve in the soup. Probable cost, 
 6d. for this quantity. Sufficient, one egg ball 
 should be served to each guest. 
 
 TURTLE SOUP, MOCK (made with Calf's Head). 
 
 This soup should be prepared the day before 
 it is wanted. Take half a calf's head, fresh and 
 with the skin on. Remove the brains, wash the 
 head in several waters, and afterwards let it 
 soak in cold water for an hour. Put it into a 
 stewpan, pour over it a gallon of cold stock 
 made from bones, and let it simmer very gently 
 for an hour. As the scum rises remove it care- 
 fully. Take up the head, and let it get partly 
 cold ; then cut the meat from the bones, and 
 divide it and the tongue into pieces an inch 
 and a quarter square. Be careful that the skin, 
 which is a most valuable part, is cut up with the 
 fat. Lay these pieces to get cold between two 
 dishes, the bottom one of which should be laid 
 upside down. Dissolve an ounce of fresh butter 
 in a stewpan. Cut a large onion into slices, and 
 fry these in the butter till they are brightly 
 browned. Pour over them the stock in which 
 the head was boiled, add the bones and trim- 
 mings, and simmer the soup, carefully removing 
 the scum until no more rises. Put in with it 
 some outer sticks of celery, a carrot, a turnip, 
 an onion stuck with four cloves, a handful of 
 parsley, a sprig of marjoram, basil, and savory, 
 a very small spri^ of lemon thyme, one or two 
 sage-leaves, one-eighth of an ounce of allspice, 
 the thin rind of half a lemon, and a little 
 salt and pepper if required. Simmer gently for 
 an hour and a half, and strain the soup fhrpugh 
 a tamis. Dissolve three ounces of butter in a 
 '3j 
 
 clean saucepan, and mix three ounces of flour 
 smoothly with it. Stir over a brisk fire till it 
 is brightly browned, and moisten by adding, 
 very gradually, a pint of the stock. Let it 
 simmer gently for half an hour, then add the 
 thickening to the soup. Put the pieces of head 
 into the stewpan, and let them simmer gently 
 until the meat is quite tender, but it must not 
 be overdone. It will need from half an hour 
 to an hour. Add a tea-spoonful of mushroom 
 ketchup, half a tea-spoonful of essence of an- 
 chovy, a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice, and a 
 claret-glassful of good Madeira or sherry. Have 
 ready prepared quenelles or forcemeat balls, 
 as for turtle soup, brain balls, or egg balls. 
 Put them into the tureen, pour the soup over, 
 and serve very hot. Time, eight to nine hours. 
 Probable cost, calf's head varies in price from 
 2s. 6d. to 6s. or 8s., according to the time of 
 year. Sufficient tor two quarts of soup. 
 
 TURTLE SOUP. MOCK (made with Cow-heel). 
 
 Wash, scald, and thoroughly cleanse a cow- 
 heel, split it in halves, and put it into a large 
 stewpan with three-pennyworth of fresh bones 
 broken into small pieces, six ounces of lean 
 uncooked ham, or a large piece of bacon-rind, 
 three onions, three carrots, a turnip, a handful 
 of parsley, a sprig of thyme, two bay-leaves, 
 two cloves, six allspice, eight peppercorns, a 
 pinch of cayenne, three sage-leaves, half a dozen 
 outer sticks of celery, and a tea-spoonful of 
 sugar. Pour over these ingredients a gallon of 
 cold water. Bring the liquor to the boil, skim 
 carefully, and simmer gently for six hours. 
 Take out the cow-heel, remove the bones, and 
 press the meat between two dishes. Let the 
 soup simmer another hour with the bones and 
 trimmings ; strain it, pour it out, let it stand 
 until cold, and remove the fat from the top. 
 Cut the meat into neat squares, and dredge a 
 little flour over them. Fry in hot fat till they 
 are lightly and equally browned, then drain 
 them on a sieve. Dissolve four ounces of butter 
 in a frying-pan, and stir into this three table- 
 spoonfuls of flour, a tea-spoonful of curry- 
 powder, and a tea-spoonful of dry mustard. 
 Beat this mixture with the back of a, wooden 
 spoon, moisten with half a pint of soup, and 
 add a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce. Boil for 
 twenty minutes, strain, and mix it with the 
 rest of the stock. Put in the pieces of meat, 
 and simmer them gently till they are heated 
 through ; add a glassful of sherry or Madeira, 
 and a dessert-spoonful of lemon- juice ; put some 
 quenelles into the tureen, pour the soup over, 
 and serve immediately. Time, eight hours. 
 Probable cost, cow-heel, 4d. to 8d. each. Suf- 
 ficient for twelve persons or more. 
 
 TURTLE SOUP, TO HEAT. 
 
 When turtle soup is bought already prepared 
 from the confectioner, which is the plan usually 
 adopted in private houses, it should be heated 
 as follows. Cover closely the jar containing the 
 soup, put it into a pan of boiling water, and 
 let the soup boil gently until it is quite hot; 
 turn it into a tureen, stir into it a claret- 
 glassful of good Madeira or sherry, and serve 
 immediately. A spoonful of lemon-juice may 
 be added if liked, and if it is not put into the 
 soup, a dish containing one or two lemons cut 
 
TWE 
 
 962 
 
 UNI 
 
 in halves may be served with the soup, so that 
 the juice may be added at the discretion of the 
 gnests. 
 TWELFTH CAKE. 
 
 Put two pounds of fresh butter into a large 
 bowl, and beat it to a smooth cream : then add 
 two pounds of powdered sugar, a large nutmeg, 
 grated, and a quarter of an ounce each of pow- 
 dered cinnamon, powdered mace, powdered 
 ginger, and powdered allspice. Beat the mix- 
 ture for ten minutes, add gradually twenty 
 eggs, and beat the cake for twenty minutes. 
 Work in two pounds of flour, four pounds of 
 currants, half a pound of bruised almonds, 
 half a pound each of candied orange, candied 
 lemon, and candied citron, and, last of all, a 
 claret-glassful of brandy, and beat the cake 
 lightly between every addition. Line a baking- 
 hoop with doubled paper well buttered, pour in 
 the mixture, and be careful that it does no 
 more than three-parts fill it, that there may 
 be room for the cake to rise. Cover the top 
 with paper, set the tin on an inverted plate in 
 the oven to keep it from burning at the bottom, 
 and bake in a slow but well-heated oven. When 
 it is nearly cold, cover it as smoothly as possible 
 with sugar-icing three-quarters of an inch thick 
 (see Fbost, oe Icing, fob. Cakes). Decorate 
 with fancy articles of any kind, with a high 
 ornament in the centre ; these may frequently 
 be hired of the confectioner. In order to ascer- 
 tain whether the cake is done enough, plunge a 
 bright knife into the centre of it, and if it 
 comes out bright and clear the cake is done, 
 A cake of this description will, if properly made, 
 and stored in a cool, dry place, keep for twelve 
 months. If out too soon it will crumble and 
 fall to pieces. It will be at its best when it has 
 been kept four months. Time to bake, four 
 hours and a half. Probable cost, 12s. for this 
 quantity. 
 
 TWELFTH CAKE (another way). 
 
 The following is an old recipe. Seven pounds 
 of fine flour, two pounds and a half of the 
 freshest butter, seven pounds of currants pre- 
 pared as before directed, two large nutmegs, 
 grated, half an ounce of mace and a quarter 
 of an ounce of cloves pounded to fine powder, 
 a pound of sifted lump sugar, the yolks of six- 
 teen and the whites of twelve eggs, and a pint 
 and a half of the very best distiller's yeast. 
 Warm as much cream as will wet this mass, 
 and add as much sweet malmsey or mountain 
 wine as will give it the consistency of batter. 
 Beat, not too fine, a pound of sweet almonds 
 bleached ; rub them with some of the sweet wine 
 and orange-flower water ; then add, and beat 
 also, half a pound each of candied lemon, citron, 
 and orange peel. Let the whole be well mixed, 
 and put the cake into a hoop with a thick paste 
 of flour and water under it in order to preserve 
 the bottom from scorching. Ice it the moment 
 it is drawn from the oven. 
 
 TWELFTH CAKE, LADY CAROLINE LAMB'S. 
 
 Take a quarter of a peck of pure flour carefully 
 dried, three pounds of currants, a quarter of a 
 pound of raisins, half a pound of refined sugar, 
 quarter of a pound of sweet and half an ounce 
 of bitter almonds, blanched and sliced, two 
 ounces of orange and two ounces of candied 
 
 lemon-peel, and spices according to taste. Mix 
 all thoroughly ; then take one pint of cream, and 
 put to it three-quarters of a pound of fresh 
 butter washed first in pure and afterwards in 
 rose-water; place these in a gentle heat. Beat 
 up the whites and yolks, separately, of six eggs, 
 and the yolks only of six more. Adfl to them 
 a little rose-water, two table-spoonfuls of carda- 
 mom brandy, half a glassful of old Ehenish, 
 hock, or champagne, a quarter of a pint of fresh 
 yeast, and a little fine salt. Mix the liquids 
 together, strain them, add the dry materials 
 warm, and mix the whole into a light smooth 
 batter. Place it before a fire for twenty 
 minutes to rise, butter your hoop, and use what 
 flour is necessary to make the cake sufliciently 
 stiff. Set it in the oven with some sheets of 
 brown paper well floured to prevent its burning. 
 In about a couple of hours it will be done. Ice 
 it in tlie usual manner, and stick any orna- 
 ments you choose upon the icing before it is 
 quite dry. 
 
 U 
 
 UDDER, BEEF. 
 
 Beef udder may be gently simmered in broth 
 or water, then sliced, and served with onion or 
 tomato sauce. If liked, it may be put in salt 
 for a couple of days before being boiled. Salted 
 udder should be eaten cold, and vinegar and oil 
 should be sent to table with it. 
 
 UDDER, CALF'S, FOR FORCEMEAT. 
 
 Put the udder into a saucepan with as much 
 broth or water as will cover it. Let it boil 
 gently till it is thoroughly done. When cold 
 trim away the upper parts, and pound the rest 
 in a mortar till it can be passed through a sieve. 
 The pulp will then be ready for putting into 
 forcemeat. Butter may always be substituted 
 for udder in making forcemeat. 
 
 UNFERMENTED 'BREAD. 
 
 Fermented bread is sometimes considered un- 
 wholesome. Those who are of this opinion may 
 make their bread as follows. Mix one ounce 
 of bicarbonate of soda with eight pounds of 
 flour. Stir one ounce of hydrochloric acid with 
 four pints of warm water. Stir the liquor into 
 the flour briskly, with a wooden spoon, till 
 the ingredients are thoroughly blended; divide 
 the dough into loaves, and bake these imme- 
 diately in a brisk oven. It will need to bake 
 as long as bread usually does. 
 
 UNION SANDWICHES. 
 
 Use a round tinned loaf for these. Spread a 
 third of the number of slices with potted veal, 
 another third with anchovy paste, and the re- 
 mainder with mustard and cress and chopped 
 capers ; season the whole with pepper and a very 
 little salt. Make the sandwiches by putting the 
 slices with anchovy at the bottom, then those 
 with cress, etc., bread side down, then press the 
 veal on to the cress. Cut into triangles and 
 arrange in a ring on a dish covered with a lace 
 paper. A little mayonnaise may be used for 
 garnish, with a few fillets of anchovy. 
 
 UNITED STATES PUDDING. 
 
 Boil three-quarters of a pint of new milk 
 with three ounces of fresh butter and half a 
 
UNI 
 
 963 
 
 VAN 
 
 tea-cupful of sugar. Stir in six ounces of corn- 
 flour, pour the pudding into a bowl, and beat 
 it briskly for some minutes. When it is almost 
 cold, mix with it first the yolks, and afterwards 
 the well-whisked whites, of four eggs. Butter 
 a pudding - basin, and fill it with alternate 
 layers of the cornflour paste thus prepared and 
 jam, and let paste constitute the uppermost and 
 undermost layers. Lay a round of oiled paper 
 on the top of the pudding, and steam it over 
 fast-boiling water till done enough. If pre- 
 ferredi the pudding may be baked in a brisk 
 oven instead of being steamed. Serve with 
 wine or brandy sauce in a tureen. Time to 
 steam the pudding, one hour ; to bake it, three- 
 quarters of an hour. 
 
 UNIVERSAL SAUCE. 
 
 Into a pint of stock put a glass of white 
 wine, salt, pepper, the grated peel of a lemon, 
 a bay-leaf, and a dash of lemon-juice. Let this 
 macerate by the side of the fire for eight hours, 
 and serve, poured over meat, game, fish, or 
 vegetables. This sauce will keep good for 
 several days. 
 
 UNIVERSAL STORE SAUCES, FOR FLAVOURING 
 GRAVIES, ETC. 
 
 Put two table-spoonfuls of port into a bottle 
 with the same quantity of lemon pickle, chilli 
 vinegar, mushroom and walnut pickle, and one 
 table-spoonful of essence of anchovies. Shake 
 the mixture, and it will be ready for use. If 
 preferred, shallot vinegar may be used instead 
 of lemon pickle. Another excellent store sauce 
 for flavouring gravies may be made as follows. 
 Put half a pint of ketchup into a bottle with 
 a table-spoonful of port, a tea-spoonful of 
 shallot vinegar, a quarter of an ounce of pow- 
 dered allspice, one ounce of salt, and a little 
 pepper and cayenne. Put the bottle in a warm . 
 place for some hours ; keep it for a week, then 
 strain and bottle for use. 
 UNIVERSITY PORK SAUSAGES. 
 
 To a couple of pounds of lean pork, young, 
 white, and delicate, put three-quarters of a 
 pound of minced beef suet — the pork must first 
 be chopped very fine. Add three dessert-spoon- 
 fuls of bread which has been dipped in port 
 wine, dried, and grated fine. Work all together 
 with the yolks of three eggs smoothly beaten; 
 season with pepper and salt and dried sage — a 
 very little cayenne may be introduced, and a 
 very small piece of garlic. Continue working 
 the whole in a mortar until it forms a paste; 
 then put it into wide skins, or into jars for 
 future use. It is cut into square pieces, dredged 
 with flour, fried in fresh butter, and sent to 
 table on a toast. 
 
 UPTON PUDDING. 
 
 Butter a pie-dish thickly, and put into it a 
 tea-cupful of large-grained sago. Add two 
 table-spoonfuls of sugar and a little grated 
 lemon or nutmeg. Nearly fill the dish with 
 boiling water (milk is better if it is to be had). 
 Pare and core two large apples, and slice them 
 into the pudding; place a lump of butter upon 
 it; and bake in a gentle oven. This pudding 
 may be eaten cold or hot. Time to bake the 
 pudding, ^out two hours. Probable cost, 6d. 
 SufElcient for five or six persons. 
 
 UXBRIDGE PLUM PUDDING, EXCELLENT. 
 
 Shred half a pound of suet very finely, mix 
 with it half a pound of flour, half a pound of 
 sugar, half a pound of mashed potatoes, half a 
 pound of grated carrots, three-quarters of a 
 pound of picked and dried currants, two ounces 
 of minced candied peel, and a little grated 
 nutmeg. Mix the ingredients thoroughly. 
 Press them into a buttered basin or mould 
 which they will quite fill, cover the mould with 
 a saucer, and tie it tightly in a cloth. Plunge 
 it into boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly 
 until done enough. A quarter of an hour before 
 the pudding is wanted take it up, and before 
 turning it out of the basin put it ii to the 
 oven. This will remove any moisture it may , 
 have acquired in boiling, and cause it to turn 
 out better. Send wine sauce to table with it.' 
 Time to boil the pudding, fully six hours. 
 Probable cost. Is. 3d. Sufficient for six or eight 
 persons. 
 
 VACHERIN FOR SWEET CREAMS. 
 
 Take half a pound of sweet almonds and half 
 a pound of white sugar. Blanch, peel, and 
 pound the almonds, add the sugar, and moisten 
 the mixture to a stiff paste with white of egg. 
 Sprinkle some powdered sugar on a pastry- 
 board, and roll the almond paste upon it a 
 quarter of an inch thick. Take a plain mould 
 about six inches in diameter, line the sides with 
 a band of paste one and a half inches deep, 
 and join the ends securely together with white 
 of egg. Stamp out a round of the paste a little 
 larger than the bottom of the mould. Bake 
 both in a gentle oven. When the paste is dry 
 take it out of the oven, remove the band' from 
 the mould, and stick it upon the round. Put 
 the case again in the oven, let it remain till it 
 becomes slightly coloured, then let it get quite 
 cold. When wanted, fill it with any nicely- 
 flavoured whipped cream, piling the cream as 
 high as possible. 
 
 VANILLA. 
 
 Vanilla is a flavouring used to impait an 
 agreeable odour to creams, ices, custards, 
 coffee, etc. It may be bought by weight, but 
 the essence is the form in which it is generally 
 used. Vanilla-scented sugar can also be ob- 
 tained at most good grocery shops. 
 
 VANILLA AND CURRANT BOMBE. 
 
 Take equal quantities of vanilla cream ice 
 and red currant water-ice. Line a bombe mould 
 with currant water-ice an inch thick. Fill the 
 centre with vanilla cream ice, close the mould, 
 and put it in ice till it is firmly set. Turn it 
 out just before it is wanted, and cut into slices 
 convenient for serving. Dish these on a napkin. 
 
 VANILLA CHEESECAKES. 
 
 Melt three ounces of butter, and stir in two 
 and a half ounces of loaf sugar, which has been 
 rubbed on half a lemon and crushed. Stir till 
 the sugar is melted and the mixture thick, then 
 pour it by degrees to three beaten and strained 
 eggs, beating hard all the time. Flavour when 
 cold with half an ounce of vanilla sugar, a tea- 
 
VAN 
 
 964 
 
 VAN 
 
 spoonful of vanilla essence, and a table-spoonful 
 of brandy. Line some patty-pans with good 
 paste, either short or flaky, put a little raspberry 
 or red currant jelly in first, and then fill up with 
 the above mixture. Bake in a moderate oven. 
 Probable cost, 2d. each. 
 
 VANILLA CREAM. 
 
 Soak an ounce of gelatine iii cold water for 
 half an hour. Break a pod of vanilla into small 
 pieces, and soak these in a pint of boiling 
 milk till the latter is pleasantly and rather 
 strongly flavoured. Add six ounces of powdered 
 sugar and the well-beaten yolks of four or six 
 eggs. 
 
 Put this custard into a jug, set it in a sauce- 
 pan of water, and stir the custard until it 
 
 TAifiLLA CHEESECAKES {see 2>agc ^&Z). 
 
 begins to thicken, but it must not boil. Drain 
 and add the gelatine, stirring the custard off 
 the fire; the heat of the custard will dissolve 
 it. Pour the cream into an oiled mould, and 
 set it in a cool place till stiff. If liked, this 
 cream may be enriched by the addition of a 
 pint of whipped cream, which should be stirred 
 lightly in when the custard and gelatine are 
 cool. When this addition is made, two addi- 
 tional eggs and another half ounce of gelatine 
 will be required. The essence, instead of the 
 pod of vanilla, may be used to flavour the 
 cream. 
 
 Time, about ten minutes to thicken the cus- 
 tard. 
 
 Probable cost, if made without cream. 
 Is. lOd. Sufficient for nearly a quart of cream. 
 
 VANILLA CUSTARD. 
 
 Cut half a pod of vanilla into pieces, and soak 
 them for an hour in a pint of milk or cream. 
 Stir four table-spoonfuls of sugar into it, and 
 when this is dissolved add the well-beaten yolks 
 of two, four, or six eggs. Put the custard in a 
 bowl, and set this over a saucepan of boiling 
 water. Keep stirring one way till it begins to 
 thicken, but it must not boil. Stir occasionally 
 till it is cold, and serve in a glass dish or in 
 custard cups. Whisk the whites of the eggs 
 to a firm froth, and pile this on the custard at 
 the moment of serving. Sift a little white sugar 
 upon the custard, and it will be ready for the 
 table. If liked, essence of vanilla may be used 
 
 instead of the pod. Probable cost, if made with 
 milk. Is. to Is. 6d. Sufficient for a little more 
 than a pint of custard. Time, ten to fifteen 
 minutes to make the custard. 
 
 VANILLA CUSTARD PUDDING. 
 
 Flavour a pint of milk by soaking a quarter 
 of a pod of vanilla in it for some time. Boil 
 the milk, and pour it whilst boiling on four 
 eggs which have been lightly beaten in a basin. 
 Strain the custard, let it cool, and add sugar 
 to taste ; three good-sized lumps will be enough. 
 Pour the pudding into a buttered mould. Lay 
 an oiled paper on the top, put it in a stewpan 
 with water to reach half-way up. the mould, and 
 steam. gently until done enough. Let it stand 
 a few minutes after it is taken up before turning 
 it out. Put it on a dish, garnish with preserved 
 fruit, and pour dissolved fruit jelly round it. 
 If liked, the pudding may be baked instead of 
 being steamed, and essence of vanilla may be 
 used instead of the pod. Time to set the pud- 
 ding, half an hour. Probable cost. Is., without 
 the sauce. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 VANILLA CUSTARD SAUCE, FOR SWEET 
 PUDDINGS. 
 
 Beat an egg, and stir half a pint of milk into 
 it. Add sugar to taste and six or seven drops 
 of vanilla flavouring. The quantity should be 
 regulated by the strength of the preparation. 
 Put the mixture into a saucepan over a gentle 
 fire, and stir one way till it begins to thicken, 
 but it must not boil. Serve in a tureen with 
 any kind of dry, boiled pudding. Time, about 
 eight minutes to thicken the custard. Sufficient 
 for five or six persons. Probable cost, 4d. 
 
 VANILLA ICE CREAM. 
 
 Pound half a stick of vanilla, and mix it with 
 half a pound of sugar. Eub this through a hair 
 sieve, and add half a pint of milk and the 
 yolks of two eggs. Simmer the mixture over a 
 slow fire for ten minutes, stirring briskly all 
 the time. When cool, add a pint of cream and 
 a small pinch of salt. Freeze and mould in the 
 usual way. Time, ten minutes to simmer the 
 custard. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. Sufficient for 
 a quart of ice cream. 
 
 VANILLA SAUCE, FOR SWEET PUDDINGS. 
 
 Boil a quarter of an inch of vanilla and a 
 table-spoonful of sugar in a quarter of a pint 
 of water for ten minutes. Mix a dessert-spoon- 
 ful of arrowroot to a smooth paste with a spoon- 
 ful of cold water. Strain the boiling syrup 
 upon it, and stir the sauce till it is smooth. 
 Add half a wine-glassful of brandy, and serve. 
 Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for five or six 
 persons. Time, ten minutes to boil the sauce. 
 
 VANILLA SOUFFLE. 
 
 Take three ounces of dried flour. Mix it to a 
 smooth paste with two or three table-spoonfuls 
 of cold milk, and add sufficient milk to make 
 up the quantity to three-quarters of a pint. 
 Stir in two table-spoonfuls of sugar, a small 
 pinch of salt, and a few drops of vanilla essence. 
 The quantity must be regulated by the strength 
 of the essence. Stir the milk briskly over the 
 fire till it leaves the sides of the ppn. Strain 
 it into a bowl, and when it is cool add the well- 
 beaten yolks of four eggs. Beat the whites of 
 
VAN 
 
 965 
 
 VEA 
 
 six eggs to a firm froth, mix them lightly with 
 the batter, and half fill a buttered dish with the 
 mixture. Put it into a moderately-heated oven, 
 and turn it about occasionally, that it may be 
 equally baked. When done enough, sift pow- 
 dered sugar upon it, and serve at once, or it 
 will be spoiled. Time to bake, about half an 
 hour. Probable cost, lOd. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. 
 
 VANILLA SPONGECAKE. 
 
 Cut half a stick of vanilla into small pieces, 
 tie them in muslin, and put them into a sauce- 
 pan with one gill of water and twelve ounces 
 of refined sugar. Simmer these to a clear 
 syrup, then take out the bag of fiavouring, 
 and stir the syrup into six eggs lightly 
 beaten. Put the basin containing this mixture 
 into a saucepan of boiling water over the 
 fire. Draw the pan back and beat the batter 
 briskly and continuously till thick and light. 
 Stir in off the fire half a pound of flour, turn 
 the batter into prepared moulds, and bake in a 
 quick oven. Time to bake, half an hour or 
 more. 
 VANILLA SUGAR. 
 
 Required, vanilla pods, and about four or 
 five times their weight in sugar. The pods must 
 be dried, then split and divided into small pieces 
 and pounded, then' pounded again with the 
 sugar. This wants very careful sifting to ensure 
 its being uniformly fine. 
 
 VEAL. 
 
 Veal is best when the animal is from two to 
 three months old. The flesh of the bull calf 
 is the most suitable for joints, being of a firmer 
 grain. That of the cow calf is the best for 
 made-dishes. The fillet of the cow calf is generr 
 ally preferred, because it has the udder. The 
 
 CALP, JOINTING OP. 
 
 finest calves have the sipallest kidneys, and when 
 the veal is good these are well covered with fat. 
 Veal, like all young meat, has a tendency to 
 turn very quickly. It is both unpalatable and 
 most unwholesome when it is at all tainted, 
 and it cannot be recovered, as brown meats 
 sometimes are, by the use of charcoal or Condy'a 
 
 Fluid. Therefore it ought not to be kept more 
 than two days in summer and four in winter. 
 If eaten quite fresh it is apt to be a little 
 tough. To assist in keeping, the pipe should 
 be removed from the loin as soon as the veal 
 comes from the butcher. The skirt also should 
 be taken at once from the breast, the inside 
 scraped and wiped, and dredged with flour. 
 If there is any danger of the veal becoming 
 tainted, wash it, and put it into boiling water 
 for ten minutes. Plunge it into cold water till 
 cool, wipe it dry, and put it into the coolest 
 place that can be found. Although veal can 
 be obtained all the year round, it is best from 
 May to September. No meat is more generally 
 useful for making soups and gravies than veal. 
 The flesh is rather indigestible. The head, 
 kidneys, and sweetbreads are considered great 
 delicacies. The feet contain a good deal of 
 nourishment. Veal is cut up as follows : (a) 
 The Hind-knuckle ; (b) the Chump, which con- 
 sists of the rump and the hock-bone ; (c) Fillet ; 
 (d) the Loin; (e) Neck; (p) the Breast; (o) the 
 Shoulder; (h) Fore-knuckle. To these joints 
 must be added the head, which is highly es- 
 teemed, and the pluck, which includes the liver, 
 lights, heart, sweetbreads, of which one is called 
 the throat sweetbread, and is the larger of the 
 two; the other the windpipe sweetbread. The 
 pluck also includes the nut, melt, skirt, and 
 throat. The udder or firm white fat of the 
 fillet is used by French cooks for forcemeat. 
 Veal should be thoroughly done. When under- 
 cooked it is unwholesome, and should be 
 avoided. 
 
 VEAL (a la Bourgeoise). 
 
 Take about three pounds of the fillet, loin, or 
 neck of veal. Cut it into neat pieces, and fry 
 these in a little butter till they are brightly 
 browned on both sides. Add two slices of lean 
 bacon, three carrots, three onions (each with a 
 clove stuck in it), a large bunch of herbs, a 
 blade of mace, and pepper and salt to taste. 
 Pour over all as much boiling stock or water as 
 will barely cover the ingredients, and simmer 
 all together very gently until the meat is done 
 enough. Take it out, skim the sauce, strain it, 
 and boil quickly to reduce it; then add a spoon- 
 ful of sugar browning to colour it, and, if liked, 
 a little tomato sauce and ketchup to impart 
 flavour. Put the meat on a dish, trim the 
 carrots to a neat shape and place them round 
 it, pour a part of the gravy over the veal, and 
 serve the rest in a tureen. A pint of fresh green 
 peas and two pounds or more of new potatoes 
 should be cooked separately, and served with 
 the veal. If liked, the veal, instead of being 
 cut up into pieces, may be evenly larded in the 
 grain of the meat with strips of fat bacon, and 
 dressed whole. If a calf s foot is boiled with 
 the veal it will much improve the gravy. Time 
 to simmer the veal, two hours if it is cut up, 
 three hours if in one piece. Probable cost, 4s. 
 to 5s. SufScient for five or six persons. 
 
 VEAL (k la Chartreuse). - 
 
 Line a plain round or oval mould with thin 
 slices of fat bacon. Spread a layer of veal force- 
 meat upon this, and fill the mould with a rich 
 fricassee of veal. Lay dressed turnips and 
 carrots, cut into appropriate shapes, round the 
 
VEA 
 
 966 
 
 VEA 
 
 edge of the mouldj cover with pastry, and steam 
 it over boiling water. Turn it out upon a dish, 
 and serve very hot. Time to steam the char- 
 treuse, about an hour. 
 
 VEAL A^D FOWL, BLANCHING OF. 
 
 Veal of every part requires to be made firm by 
 means of boiling water ; and the flesh of any 
 kind of fowl required to be rendered firm should 
 also be laid in hot water, allowed to remain un- 
 disturbed at a short distance from the fire, and 
 afterwards plunged into cold water. Especially 
 veal intended for cooking, or previously cut up 
 into proper pieces for a fricassee, should be kept 
 for a quarter of an hour in boiling water at a 
 distance from the fire, and then removed and 
 washed in cold water. A leg or breast of veal 
 must be set on the fire with cold water to draw it 
 a little ; it must not, however, boil, as that 
 would extract too much of its goodness. Remove 
 it from the fire, cover it over, and let it stand a 
 quarter of an hour ; after which it will be found 
 to have become perfectly drawn and whitened. 
 Take it out, lay it in cold water, wash it, and 
 dry it with a clean cloth. 
 
 VEAL AND HAM PATTIES. 
 
 Line patty-pans with puff-paste in the usual 
 way, bake them, and fill them with a mixture 
 prepared as follows. Mince finely six ounces of 
 cooked lean veal and three ounces of cooked 
 ham. Put a quarter of a pint of cream and a 
 quarter of a pint of white stock into a sauce- 
 pan ; thicken this sauce with white roux or with 
 a small piece of butter rolled in flour, and 
 simmer till it is smooth, and coats the spoon. 
 Add a little pepper, salt, and cayenne, and a 
 flavouring of grated nutmeg and lemon-rind, 
 together with a little lemon-juice. Put in the 
 minced meat, and simmer gently, stirring all 
 the time, till it is quite hot — but it must not 
 boil, or it will be hard. Time, ten to fifteen 
 minutes to heat the mince. 
 VEAL AND HAM PIE. 
 
 Take from a pound and a half to two pounds 
 of veal cutlets or of nice lean veal from any 
 part. Cut these into neat square pieces about 
 the size of a walnut. Put a layer at the bottom 
 of a pie-dish, and sprinkle upon the meat a 
 little pepper and salt, a pinch of grated lemon- 
 rind, another of powdered mace, and another of 
 minced savoiiry herbs. Lay upon these flavour- 
 ing ingredients two or three slices of ham or 
 etreaky bacon, and repeat the alternate layers 
 until the dish is full. Let ham constitute the 
 uppermost layer. The yolks of three eggs boiled 
 hard and cut into slices may be interspersed 
 with the meat. Pour half a pint of stock upon 
 the meat. Line the edges of the dish with good 
 pastry, cover with the same, ornament the sur- 
 face, brush it over with yolk of egg, and bake in 
 a well-heated oven. When done enough, pour 
 a little boiling gravy into the pie, and serve. 
 This pie may be enriched by the addition of a 
 little forcemeat, or a few oysters or mushrooms, 
 or a sweetbread, but it will be found excellent 
 without them. If liked, a gravy prepared as 
 follows may be poured upon the meat instead 
 of stock. Take a table-spoonful of chopped 
 mushrooms, a minced shallot, and a tea-spoon- 
 ful of parsley. Fry these in a little butter 
 over a gentle fire. Add half a pint of stock 
 
 or water, a small piece of brown thickening, a 
 little pepper and salt, and a spoonful of ketchup. 
 Stir the sauce till it boils, add a few drops of 
 lemon-juice, strain it, and it will be ready for 
 use. Time to bake the pie, an hour and a half 
 or more according to size. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. Probable cost, 3s. 6d., plainly 
 made. 
 
 VEAL AND MACARONI PUDDING. 
 
 Take as much veal (free from bone) as will 
 about three-parts fill the pudding-basin it ia 
 intended to use. Half a pound of bacon, the 
 veal kidney or part of it, the sweetbread, 
 or a few oysters or mushrooms, may be 
 added to the veal. Cut the meat into 
 small neat pieces, and season with pepper 
 and salt. Break into one-inch lengths as much 
 macaroni as will fill the vacant space in the 
 pudding-basin, and soak these in lukewarm 
 water for half an hour. Line the pudding- 
 basin with good suet pastry. Fill it with layers 
 of meat and macaroni, and sprinkle grated 
 lemon and powdered mace between the layers. 
 Add half a tea-cupful of stock or water for 
 gravy and a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice. 
 Lay a pastry cover on the top of the pudding, 
 tie the pudding in a floured cloth, plunge it 
 into boiling water and keep it boiling quickly 
 until done enough. Take it up, untie the cloth, 
 and run a shar^ skewer into the pudding, in 
 order to ascertain whether or not the meat is 
 tender. If not, it will require longer boiUng. 
 If it is done enough, turn it out carefully upon 
 a hot dish, and serve immediately. Time to boil 
 a pudding made with a pound and a half of veal, 
 about two hours. Probable cost, varying with 
 the nature of the contents. Sufficient for seven 
 or eight persons. 
 
 VEAL AND RICE CAKES. 
 
 Take some cold boiled rice (as for curry), add 
 to it half its weight of cold veal, and the same 
 of cold bacon, first finely minced and then 
 pounded. Pound all together with a little salt, 
 pepper, grated lemon-^eel, nutmeg, thyme, and 
 parsley. Add the yolk of an egg, and form into 
 small cakes or balls. Coat with white of egg 
 and crushed vermicelli, or bread-crumbs, and 
 fry brown. Send a piquant brown sauce or a 
 gravy made from veal bones flavoured with 
 mushroom ketchup to table with them. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. per dozen. 
 VEAL AND RICE SOUP. 
 
 Take about four pounds of the knuckle of 
 veal. Break up the bones, and put them with 
 the meat into a small stock-pot with a gallon 
 of stock made from bones, or water, and any 
 trimmings of meat or poultry that may be at 
 hand. The knuckle-bone of a ham or a little 
 scalded and scraped bacon-rind will be a great 
 improvement. Let the liquor boil, skim well, 
 and throw into it two carrots, a turnip, two 
 onions, each stuck with one clove, a few sticks 
 of celery or a little celery-seed, and pepper and 
 salt. Simmer the stock very gently indeed for 
 three hours. Take out the meat, and put it 
 aside till wanted^^ Strain the liquor, and pour 
 it into a smaller saucepan with half a pound of 
 half-boiled rice. Let it simmer until the rice is 
 quite tender. Cut the veal into pieces con- 
 "venient for serving, let them become hot in the 
 
VEA 
 
 967 
 
 VEA 
 
 liquor. Pour the soup, with the rice and veal, 
 into a tureen, and serve very hot. Time, four 
 hours. Probable cost, knuckle of veal, 5ti. to 
 7d. per pound. Sufficient for eight or ten 
 persons. 
 
 VEAL, BACHELOR'S STEW OF. 
 
 In order to cook veal successfully in this 
 way there should be at hand a small saucepan 
 with a very closely-fitting lid. Take from the 
 fillet a slice of veal about two inches thick, 
 and weighing from two to three pounds. Dis- 
 solve a slice of fresh butter in the saucepan 
 and brown the cutlet in this on both sides. 
 Dredge it with pepper, and place upon it a 
 little piece of lean ham, together with two or 
 three sliced carrots, some sticks of celery, a 
 few onions or peas, or any other suitable 
 flavouring ingredients, together with salt and 
 cayenne, a spoonful of ketchup, and a tea-cup- 
 ful of boiling stock or water. Cover the sauce- 
 pan very closely, and let its contents simmer 
 as gently as possible xmtil done enough. Place 
 the veal on a hot dish, garnish with the vege- 
 tables, thicken the gravy, pour it over the meat, 
 and serve very hot. Time to simmer, an hour 
 and three-quarters. Probable cost, with two 
 pounds of veal, 3s. SuflScient for two or three 
 persons. 
 
 VEAL BEIGNETS. 
 
 Cut some slices, about two inches square, from 
 cold veal; season well with pepper and salt, 
 and dip the pieces into batter; fry for two or 
 three minutes in plenty of boiling fat to a 
 golden brown. Have ready a hot dish with 
 baked potatoes arranged neatly round, lay the 
 beignets in the centre, and serve immediately. 
 
 VEAL, BLANQUETTE OF, MADE FROM COLD 
 COOKED MEAT. 
 
 Take from two to three pounds of cold cooked 
 veal. Cut it into neat slices, and trim away the 
 brown outside. Put these slices into a dish, 
 cover them over, and keep them in a cool place 
 till wanted. Mince the brown part, and put it 
 into a saucepan with a good-sized onion chopped 
 small, a stick of celery, a bunch of parsley, a 
 little pepper and salt, and a pint of stock made 
 from bones. Let all simmer gently together 
 for half an hour. Strain the gravy, and put it 
 again into the saucepan with a pinch of pounded 
 mace, the strained juice of half a lemon, and 
 the slices of veal. Let the liquor simmer a 
 minute or two. Beat the yolks of two eggs in a 
 bowl. Mix a small quantity of the warm gravy 
 with them, and add this liquor gradually to the 
 rest of the broth. Stir the sauce till it is smooth 
 and thick, but it must not boil or it will curdle. 
 This dish is excellent with green peas as an ac- 
 companiment. Time, altogether, about an hour. 
 Probable cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 VEAL, BLANQUETTE OF, MADE FROM FRESH 
 MEAT. 
 
 Take from two to three pounds of the breast 
 of veal. Cut it into pieces the size of a walnut, 
 put these into a^mall saucepan, and pour upon 
 them as much boiling stock or water as will 
 cover them. Let the liquor boil up, and skim it. 
 Throw into it two onions each stuck with a 
 clove, two carrots, and a large bunch of sweet 
 
 herbs. Add a little pepper and salt. Cover the 
 saucepan closely, arid simmer the meat gently 
 for an hour. Drain it, and put it aside for a 
 short time. Strain the gravy, thicken with 
 white thickening, and let it boil, stirring occa- 
 sionally till it coats the spoon. Let it cool a 
 minute, then beat the yolks of two eggs in a 
 bowl, mix with them a spoonful of the gravy, 
 and add the rest gradually. Put the pieces of 
 veal into a small saucepan, strain the gravy 
 upon them, and let them remain in it gently 
 simmering until they are heated through, but 
 the sauce must not boil or it will curdle. Add 
 a table-spoonful of scalded and chopped parsley. 
 Mix and serve. Time to simmer the meat, about 
 an hour. Probable cost, breast of veal, lOd. 
 per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 VEAL, BLANQUETTE OF, WITH CUCUMBERS. 
 
 Cut some cold veal into neat pieces about the 
 size of a walnut and a quarter of an inch thick. 
 Pare and quarter a large cucumber, and cut it 
 into lengths of half an inch. Sprinkle a little 
 salt upon these, and cover them with vinegar. 
 Let them remain for half an hour. Drain them 
 well, and dry them with a soft cloth. Dissolve 
 a slice of fresh butter in a bright stewpan, and 
 add a pinch of grated nutmeg and a small piece 
 of sugar. Put in the slices of cucumber, and 
 let them simmer gently till tender. Drain off 
 the butter, pour some white sauce upon the 
 cucumber, add the pieces of veal, and let all 
 simmer gently together till the meat is quite 
 hot. Place the veal on a dish, pour the sauce 
 over, and garnish the dish with sippets of toast. 
 The white sauce should be made with nicely- 
 seasoned veal stock made from the veal bones, 
 and thickened with white thickening. It will 
 be improved by stewing onions and mushrooms 
 in it to flavour it, but it will be very good with- 
 out them. A little lemon-juice may be stirred 
 in at the last moment. Time to stew the 
 cucumber in the butter, about half an hour. 
 Probable cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 
 about Is. 6d. 
 VEAL, BLANQUETTE OF, WITH MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Cut some cold cooked veal into pieces about 
 an inch square and a quarter of an inch thick. 
 Take a quarter of the bulk of the meat in button 
 mushrooms, clean these with a piece of flannel 
 and a little salt, and simmer them very gently 
 with a slice of fresh butter till they are done 
 enough. Put the pieces of veal in a saucepan, 
 lay the stewed mushrooms upon them, and pour 
 over all a little nicely-seasoned veal stock 
 thickened with a small piece of white thicken- 
 ing. Heat the preparation gently till it is on 
 the point of boiling. Beat one or two eggs in 
 a bowl, stir a spoonful of sauce into them, and 
 add them gradually to the rest. Shake the 
 sauce over the fire for a minute, but do not let 
 it boil, or it will curdle. Add a table-spoonful 
 of lemon-juice, and serve. If liked, the blan- 
 quette may be piled in the centre of a dish with 
 a border of pastry round it. Time to simmer 
 the mushrooms, ten to fifteen minutes. 
 
 VEAL, BLANQUETTE OF, WITH MUSHROOMS 
 
 (another way). 
 Take from one to two pounds of cold cooked 
 veal, and mince it finely. Chop an onion, and 
 fry it in butter till it begins to turn yellow. 
 
VEA 
 
 968 
 
 VEA 
 
 Stir in with it a tea-spoonfnl of chopped parsley, 
 and beat it with a spoonful of flour to a smooth 
 paste. Moisten this with stock to make it of 
 the consistency of cream, and add a table-spoon- 
 ful of chopped mushrooms and a little pepper 
 and salt. Simmer the sauce for about ten 
 minutes, add the mince, simmer the sauce again 
 until the meat is heated throughout, but it miist 
 not boil, or the veal will harden. If liked, the 
 well-beaten yolks of two eggs and the strained 
 juice of half a lemon may be added to the 
 sauce. Time, altogether, about an hour. Suf- 
 ficient for three or four persons. 
 
 VEAL, BOILED. 
 
 Generally speaking, veal plainly boiled is re- 
 garded as too insipid to be much relished. Still, 
 for an occasional change, the joints which would 
 otherwise be roasted may be boiled. Bacon, or 
 sausage, or boiled tongue should be served with 
 boiled veal, and parsley and butter, onion, 
 oyster, celery, or any piquant sauce should ac- 
 company it. Particular attention is necessary 
 in boiling veal, as it is so easily discoloured, 
 and then has a very bad appearance. It should 
 be put into a delicately-clean saucepan, with 
 boiling milk and water to cover it, boiled for 
 two or three minutes, then drawn back, and 
 simmered gently until done enough. As the 
 scum rises it should be removed with scrupulous 
 care. Veal from which gravy has been made 
 may be served in this way if it has not been too 
 much boiled. 
 
 VEAL, BRAISED. 
 
 Take about three pounds of veal — the middle 
 of the loin or the best end of the neck will be 
 the most suitable for the purpose. Cut the 
 bones short, and chop off the chine-bone close 
 to the meat. Take a si-all bright saucepan, 
 and rub the bottom quickly three or four times 
 across with a clove of garlic. Lay two or three 
 thin slices of lean bacon or ham in the bottom 
 " of the saucepan, and place the veal upon these. 
 Add a carrot, an onion stuck with two cloves, 
 a tea-spoonful of chopped mushrooms, a lump 
 of sugar, a small blade of mace, a pinch of 
 grated nutmeg, a little pepper, and salt if the 
 bacon is not already sufficiently salted. Place 
 thin slices of fat bacon upon the veal, and pour 
 upon it half a pint of cold stock or of water. 
 Cover the pan closely, and simmer the meat as 
 gently as possible till done enough. Take up 
 the veal, put it on a hot dish, and place it in 
 the oven for a short time to keep hot. Skim the 
 gravy, and rub it, with the ham, vegetables, etc., 
 through a fine hair sieve. Let it boil up, stir a 
 wine-glassful of Madeira into it, pour it upon 
 the veal, and serve very hot. If a superlative 
 dish is required, before dressing the meat cut 
 off the skin of the veal, but not too closely. 
 Spread two ounces of butter on the meat, and 
 lay on the butter three fresh trufiles which have 
 been cleaned and cut into thin slices. Place the 
 skin in its original position, and sew it on with 
 coarse twine. Proceed as before. Probable 
 cost, veal, lid. per pound. Sufficient for six or 
 seven persons. 
 
 VEAL, BRAISED, WITH TRUFFLES. 
 
 Take about four pounds of veal from the 
 middle of the loin. Saw off the chine-bone, cut 
 the bones short, slice off the skin and flesh to the 
 
 depth of an eighth of an inch. Spread on this 
 two ounces of butter and three fresh truffles 
 which have been cleaned and thinly sliced. Ee- 
 store the slice to its original position, and sew it 
 on securely with twine. Butter a stewpan, and 
 cover the bottom with a thin slice of ham. Put 
 the veal on this, and place round it the bones 
 and triirimings, a sliced carrot, an onion stuck 
 with two cloves, a mushroom chopped small, a 
 lump of sugar, a small blade of mace, a pinch 
 of grated nutmeg, a grain of coriander-seed and 
 a piece of garlic the size of a split pea. These 
 two last ingredients may be omitted. Pour over 
 all half a pint of stock or water, cover the 
 saucepan closely, and let its contents simmer 
 very gently till done enough. Skim the liquor, 
 and baste the meat with it frequently. Take 
 up the veal, and put it in the oven to keep hot. 
 Skim the fat from the gravy, and rub it, with 
 the vegetables, etc., through a fine sieve. Let 
 it boil, and if liked add a glassful of sherry 
 or Madeira. Put the veal on a dish, pour the 
 gravy over, and serve very hot. Time to simmer 
 the meat, two hours and a half. Probable coat, 
 veal. Is. per pound. 
 
 VEAL BRAWN. 
 
 Boil for three hours a knuckle of veal weigh- 
 ing seven pounds, with an onion, a turhip, and a 
 head of celery. When tender, take out all the 
 bones and cut the meat into small pieces ; season 
 well with pepper, salt, and sage, then turn out 
 into a cake-tin, keeping back nearly all the 
 liquor. When cold and firmly set, turn out of 
 the tin, and serve as required. The bones 
 should be put back again, with the remainder 
 of the stock, and simmered slowly for several 
 hours with the vegetables, when an excellent 
 stock will be ready for use. 
 
 VEAL, BREAST OF. 
 
 A breast oi veal consists of two portions, the 
 best end and the brisket end. The brisket is 
 generally Id. or 2d. per pound cheaper than the 
 best end. Breast of veal may be bought whole 
 or in parts. A whole one weighs from nine to 
 twelve pounds. 
 
 VEAL, BREAST OF (k la Chipolata). 
 
 Bone, roll, braise, and dish the veal according 
 to the directions given in Veal, Bbeast of, 
 EoLLBD AND Bbaised. Place round it a chipo- 
 lata ragout (see Garnish, Chipolata pok), omit- 
 ting any of the ingredients that are difficult to 
 procure. A little bacon should be served with 
 the veal, either in the garnish or on a separate 
 dish. 
 
 VEAL, BREAST OF (it la Marengo). 
 
 This is an imitation of the famous fricasseed 
 Chicken a la Marengo (which see). Cut up a por- 
 tion of the breast of veal into neat pieces con- 
 venient for serving. Fry these in butter or fat 
 till they are lightly browned, and put into the 
 pan with them a little grated ham, a large onion 
 thinly sliced, and a little pepper and salt. Pour 
 upon them as much stock or water as will barely 
 cover them. Simmer all gently together till 
 the veal is done enough, then add half a dozen 
 or more stewed mushrooms. Thicken the sauce 
 with a small piece of brown thickening, and 
 throw into it at the moment of serving a little 
 finely-chopped parsley. Put the veal into a 
 
VEA 
 
 969 
 
 VEA 
 
 dish, pour the sauce over, and garnish with 
 toasted sippets. Time to simmer the veal, 
 about two hours. Probable cost, breast of veal, 
 9d. to lOd. per pound. 
 
 VEAL, BREAST OF, BOILED. 
 
 If the sweetbread is to be boiled with the 
 veal, let it soak in water for a couple of hours, 
 then skewer it to the veal. Put this into a 
 saucepan, with boiling water to cover it, let it 
 boil once more, and carefully remove the scum 
 as it rises. Add a handful of parsley, a tea- 
 spoonful of peppercorns, a blade of mace, and 
 a little salt. Draw it back, and then simmer 
 gently until done enough. Serve on a hot dish, 
 and pour a little good onion sauce or parsley 
 sauce over it. Send boiled bacon to table on 
 a separate dish. The sweetbread may, of course, 
 be dressed separately. Time to simmer the veal, 
 about one hour and a half. 
 
 VEAL, BREAST OF, BROILED. 
 
 Three-parts roast a portion of the breast of 
 veal. Take it up, score it across in even lines, 
 and fill these with salt and cayenne and a few 
 ,powdered herbs. Broil the veal over a clear 
 fire, and turn it over from one side to the other 
 till it is done enough. Serve on a hot dish, with 
 piquant sauce poured over it. 
 
 VEAL, BREAST OF, COLLARED. 
 
 Bone the veal, remove the gristle and tendons, 
 and to flatten it beat it gently with a rolling- 
 pin. Spread upon it a little pepper, salt, and 
 pounded mace, together with some parsley, 
 thyme and marjoram, and two or three shallots, 
 all finely chopped. Lay upon the herbs some 
 thick slices of good ham, together with two 
 calves' tongues, boiled, skinned, and sliced. 
 Eoll the veal tightly, and bind it with tape. 
 Put it into a saucepan with as much stock or 
 water as will cover it, and let it simmer gently 
 till it is quite tender throughout. Take it up, 
 and put it in press till cold. If liked, the flesh 
 of two boiled pig's or calf's feet may be put 
 upon the ham, and to improve the appearance 
 of the veal some hard-boiled yolks of eggfs and 
 a little sliced beetroot may be interspersed with 
 the seasoning. Time to simmer the veal, about 
 four hours. Suflicient for a good-sized dish. 
 Probable cost. Is. per pound. 
 
 VEAL, BREAST OF, COLLARED (another way). 
 
 Bone a breast of veal. Lay it on the table, 
 and spread on it a thick layer of nicely-seasoned 
 oyster forcemeat (see Oysters, Fobcemeat oe). 
 Eoll the veal as tightly as possible, and bind it 
 with tape. Put it into boiling water, let it boil 
 up once, skim the liquor carefully, draw the 
 saucepan to the side of the fire, and let its 
 contents simmer as gently as possible till the 
 veal is tender. Put the bones into a separate 
 saucepan with a moderate-sized onion, a bunch 
 of sweet herbs, and a little pepper and salt. 
 Let them simmer till the liquor is strong and 
 pleasantly flavoured. Strain it, thicken with 
 white thickening or a little flour and butter, and 
 stir into it two or three table-spoonfuls of thick 
 cream. If milk has to be used instead of cream 
 the yolk of an egg may be beaten up with it.. 
 Serve the meat on a hot dish with the sauce 
 poured over. This dish may be garnished with 
 forcemeat balls, and with the sweetbread cut 
 
 into 'slices, egged and bread-crumbed, and fried ; 
 or a little parsley and sliced lemon may be 
 used instead. The meat is sometimes baked 
 instead of boiled, and then a little weak stock 
 should be put into the pan with it, and it 
 should be basted frequently. If it is preserved 
 in pickle it will keep good for some time. Time 
 to simmer the veal, three to four hours. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. per pound. 
 
 VEAL, BREAST OF, RAGOUT OF. 
 
 Take off the underbone, and put the veal into 
 a stewpan with as much boiling stock as will 
 cover it. Let the liquor boil up, then add a 
 large carrot sliced, three onions, a blade of 
 mace, a bunch of sweet herbs, the thin rind of 
 a lemony and a little pepper and salt. Skim 
 the gravy, and simmer it gently until the veal 
 is quite tender. Thicken th^ gravy till it is of 
 the consistency of sauce, and stir into it the 
 strained juice of a small lemon and a glassful 
 of sherry or Madeira. Put the, veal into a dish, 
 pour the gravy over it, and garnish with savoury 
 forcemeat balls and cut lemon. Time to simmer 
 the meat, about two hours. Probable cost, veal, 
 9d. to lOd. per pound. 
 
 VEAL, BREAST OF, RAGOUT OF (another way). 
 
 Take about four pounds of the^ breast of veal. 
 Divide this into pieces convenient for serving, 
 and fry them to a light brown in hot fat. Drain 
 them, put them into a stewpan, cover with stock 
 made from bones, and put with them a large 
 onion stuck with two cloves, half a blade of 
 mace, a handful of parsley, a sprig of thyme, 
 a small roll of thin lemon-rind, five or six 
 bruised allspice, and a little pepper and salt". 
 Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents 
 simmer very gently till the veal is tender. 
 Strain a pint of the gravy, or more if required, 
 into a separate saucepan, and put the first one 
 by the side of the fire that the meat may l^eep 
 hot. Thicken the gravy with brown thickening, 
 and flavour with a dessert-spoonful of lemon- 
 juice, a dessert-spoonful of ketchup, and half 
 a wine-glass of light wine. Taste it, add a 
 little more pepper and salt if required, and let 
 it boil up once. Put the veal into a dish, pour 
 the sauce over, and serve very hot. A little 
 fried bacon should accompany this dish, and 
 forcemeat balls may be added or not. Time to 
 simmer the meat, one hour and a half, or two 
 hours if thick. Probable cost, veal, 9d. to 
 lOd. per pound. Sufficient for seven or eight 
 persons. 
 VEAL, BREAST OF, ROASTED. 
 
 If the sweetbread is retained, skewer it to the 
 back. Cover the joint with the caul, or, want- 
 ing this, with a piece of buttered paper. Put 
 the veal down at a moderate distance from a 
 clear fire, and baste liberally till done enough. 
 When it has been down about an hour and a 
 half, remove the caul, flour the joint, and let 
 it brown. Serve on a hot dish with melted 
 butter poured over. Garnish with a cut lemon, 
 and send boiled bacon to table with it. If 
 liked, forcemeat balls may be served with the 
 ' veal, and mushroom sauce sent to table with it. 
 Time to roast the breast, two to two and a half 
 hours, or twenty minutes to the pound. Prob- 
 able cost, veal, 9d. or lOd. per pound. 
 
VEA 
 
 970 
 
 VEA 
 
 VEAL, BREAST OF, ROASTED, TO CARVE. 
 
 The breast of veal should be first separated 
 into two parts — it rightly consists of two — the 
 rib-bones and the gristly brisket. This is done 
 by cutting in the direction of the lines 1, 2. 
 
 HOW TO CARVE A liKEAST OF VIAL. 
 
 The gristly part being divided into parts in the 
 direction 3, 4, may be offered to those who 
 prefer it. The ribs are to be separated in the 
 direction 5, 6; and with a part of the breast, 
 a slice of the sweetbread cut across the middle 
 should be served. 
 
 VEAL, BREAST OF, ROLLED. 
 
 Trim a breast of veal, and remove all the 
 bones and tendons. If requested, the butcher will 
 perform this operation, which should be done 
 the day before the veal is to be cooked, so that 
 the bones may be stewed for gravy (see VeaIi, 
 Gbavy for). Spread >•■ thin layer of forcemeat 
 over the inside of the breast, roll it up very 
 tightly, and bind it firmly with tape. Tie it in 
 a cloth. Put a plate at the bottom of the stew- 
 pan, lay the veal on it, and cover with cold 
 water. Bring the liquor to the boil, skim it, 
 and simmer gently for three hours. When done 
 enough, take off the cloth, put the veal on a 
 dish, pour the gravy over, garnish with cut 
 lemon, fried bacon, and forcemeat balls, and it 
 will be ready for serving. If liked, two pounded 
 anchovies, a little blanched\and chopped pars- 
 ley, and the boiled livers of two fowls may be 
 added to the gravy. Veal thus prepared may be 
 baked or roasted as well as boiled. Time, three 
 hours from the time the water boils Probable 
 cost, veal, lOd. per pound. Sufiicient for eight 
 or ten persons. 
 
 VEAL, BREAST OF, ROLLED AND BRAISED. 
 
 Bone a breast of veal, spread forcemeat 
 upon it, and roll it as in the last recipe. Bind 
 securely with tape, and lay slices of fat bacon 
 all round it. Lay it in a stewpan just large 
 enough to contain it, and add a carrot, an onion 
 stuck with cloves, a few peppercorns, half a 
 blade of mace, and a bunch of sweet herbs. 
 Pour over it from half to three-quarters of a 
 pint of stock, cover the saucepan closely, and 
 let its contents simmer very gently over a slow 
 fire for three hours. Baste frequently with 
 its liquor. Take up the veal, lay it on a dish, 
 and put it in the oven. Strain the liquor, and 
 boil quickly till it begins to thicken. Brush 
 the veal over with it two or three times, then 
 place it on a dish, garnish with forcemeat balls, 
 rashers of bacon, or dressed vegetables, and 
 send it to table with any of the following sauces. 
 White sauce, Italian sauce, melted butter, pars- 
 ley sauce, mushroom sauce, etc. Time to sim- 
 mer the veal, three hours. Probable cost of the 
 veal, lOd. per pound. 
 
 VEAL, BREAST OF, STEWED IN WHITE SAUCE. 
 
 Take a piece of the breast of veal weighing 
 about three pounds, and cut it into neat 
 pieces convenient for serving. Put these 
 into a stewpan with a bunch of parsley, 
 a sprig of thyme, a bay - leaf, two shal- 
 lots, or four young onions, the thin rind 
 of half a lemon, a blade of mace, and a little 
 salt and white pepper. Pour upon the meat 
 a pint of stock or water, let the liquor boil, 
 skim carefully, then draw it to the side, and 
 simmer as gently as possible till done enough. 
 Take up the meat, and place it in the oven 
 to keep not. Strain the gravy, put it back into 
 the saucepan, and stir into it the yolks of two 
 eggs which have been beaten up with a quarter 
 of a pint of milk or cream. Stir this sauce over 
 the fire for a minute or two till it begins to 
 thicken, then pour it over the veal, and serve 
 very hot. The sauce must not boil after the 
 eggs are added, or it will curdle. If liked, the 
 meat may be left whole instead of being cut up. 
 Those who like the flavour may rub freshly-cut 
 garlic across the stewpan five or six times 
 before putting in the meat. Time to simmer 
 the veal, one hour and a half, or two hours if 
 thick. Probable cost, veal, 9d. to lOd. per 
 pound. Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 VEAL, BREAST OF, STEWED PLAINLY. 
 
 Take out the long bones and the gristle, and 
 trim a breast of veal neatly. Put it into a 
 stewpan, and cover with boiling stock made 
 from bones. Let the liquor boil, skim care- 
 fully, and simmer very gently until the veal 
 is tender. Drain and dish it, garnish the dish 
 with forcemeat balls, and pour a little good 
 gravy round it. The liquor in which the meat is 
 stewed, unless thoroughly cleared from the fat, 
 will be too rich to serve with it. A little bacon 
 should accompany this dish. Time to stew the 
 veal, two to two and a half hours. Probable 
 cost, veal, 9d. to lOd. per pound. 
 
 VEAL, BREAST OF, STEWED WITH GREEN PEAS. 
 
 Take two pounds of the breast of veal. 
 Cut it into pieces convenient for serving, 
 dredge them with flou'r, and sprinkle upon them 
 a little pepper, salt, and white sugar. Fry them 
 in hot fat till they are lightly browned. Drain 
 them, and put them into a saucepan with as 
 much boiling stock, made from bones, as will 
 barely cover them. Let them simmer very 
 gently till done enough. Baste the meat fre- 
 quently with the gravy, and skim this well to 
 clear it from fat. About a quarter of an hour 
 before the veal is to be served, throw into the 
 liquor about a quart of freshly-shelled young 
 peas. Let them simmer until tender. Serve 
 very hot. Time to simmer the veal, two hours. 
 Probable cost, about 3s. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. 
 
 VEAL, BREAST OF, STEWED WITH OYSTERS. 
 
 Take a piece of the breast of veal weighing 
 about two pounds. Put it into a saucepan with 
 a large onion stuck with a clove, halt a blade of 
 mace, a bunch of sweet herbs, half an inch of 
 stick cinnamon, and a little pepper and salt. 
 Pour over it the liquor from a dozen oysters, 
 and add a table-spoonful of strained lemon- 
 juice, with a little stock if required. Simmer 
 
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 83 
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VEA 
 
 971 
 
 VEA 
 
 the veal as gently as possible for two hours, 
 and skim it well. Strain the liquor, put with 
 it a quarter of a pint of milk or cream mixed 
 with the yolks of two eggs, and stir the sauce 
 till it thickens. Make the oysters hot by 
 putting them into the ove'lr in the dish in which 
 the veal is to be served, but do not let them get 
 cooked. Pour the sauce vipon them, place the 
 veal in the centre of the dish, and serve very hot. 
 Time to simmer the veal, two hours. Probable 
 cost, if made with milk, 2s. lOd. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 VEAL, BREAST OF, STUFFED AND ROASTED. 
 
 Take a breast of veal weighing about eight 
 pounds. Raise the thick part with the fingers, 
 and force into the vacant place as much veal 
 stuffing as possible. Bring the edges of the 
 meat together, and sew them with twine, or 
 fasten them with skewers, that the forcemeat 
 may not escape. Put the veal down at a 
 moderate distance from a clear fire. Baste it 
 liberally. When done enough, take it up, pour 
 melted butter over, and send fried rashers of 
 bacon to table with it. Time to roast the veal, 
 one hour and three-quarters. Probable cost, 
 lOd. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven 
 persons. 
 
 VEAL, BREAST OF, STUFFED AND STEWED. 
 
 Take a breast of veal, raise the flesh, and fill 
 the space with good veal forcemeat. Bring the 
 edges together, and sew them securely with a 
 little piece of muslin over them that the force- 
 meat may not escape. Put the meat down 
 before a clear fire, dredge it witli flour, and 
 baste till it is equally and brightly browned 
 all over. Take it up, and put it into a stew- 
 pan with about a cupful of stock made from 
 bones. Put the contents of the dripping-tin 
 into it, throw a handful of the forcemeat in to 
 flavour the sauce, cover the stewpan closely, and 
 let the veal simmer gently till done enough. 
 Take it up, if necessary thicken the gravy with 
 a little brown thickening, pour it over the veal, 
 and serve very hot. Garnish the dish with 
 fried rashers of bacon, forcemeat balls, and cut 
 lemon. Time, about half an hour to brown the 
 veal ; two" hours or more to stew it. Probable 
 cost, lOd. per pound. Sufficient for six or eight 
 persons. 
 
 VEAL, BREAST OF, STUFFED AND STEWED 
 
 (another way). 
 Stuff the breast of veal as before. Line a 
 stewpan with slices of bacon, put in the veal, 
 and add two onions, each stuck with one clove, 
 a carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little 
 pepper. Lay slices of bacon on the top of the 
 veal, and pour upon it about half a pint or more 
 of stock made from bones. Cover the saucepan 
 closely, and let its contents simmer gently until 
 done enough. Take up the veal, strain the 
 gravy, skim it well, thicken with a little brown 
 thickening, stir the juice of half a lemon into 
 it, and pour it over the meat. A glassful of 
 light wine may be added or not. Garnish the 
 dish with slices of lemon, forcemeat balls, and 
 fried bacon, or send bacon to table on a separate 
 dish. Time to stew the veal, three hours. 
 Probable cost, _9d. to lOd. per pound. Sufficient 
 for six or eight persons. 
 
 VEAL, BREAST OF, WITH SPRING VEGETABLES. 
 
 Bone, roll, and braise the veal according to 
 the directions already given for Veal, Bbeast 
 OP, Rolled and Braised. Whilst it is in the 
 stewpan prepare and cook separately young 
 vegetables, such as young turnips, carrots, 
 onions, new potatoes, beans, and green peas. 
 When wanted, heat these in a little. veal gravy, 
 and place them fancifully round the veal. Pour 
 a little of the sauce into the dish, and send 
 the rest to table in a tureen. 
 
 VEAL, BRIDE'S PIE OF (a Scottish dish). 
 
 Take two large calf's feet, and boil them till 
 they are quite tender. Make a mixture as for 
 mince pies, with the calf's-feet flesh cut up 
 very small, a pound of finely-shredded suet, a 
 pound of apples pared, cored, and minced, half 
 a pound of picked and dried currants, half a 
 pound of raisins, two ounces of mixed candied 
 peel, a pinch of powdered cinnamon, and one 
 small nutmeg, grated. Mix these ingredients 
 thoroughly, and moisten them with a glassful 
 of brandy and a glassful of port. Line a dish 
 with good pastry," Put in the mince, and con- 
 ceal a gold ring in it. Cover the. pie with 
 pastry, and ornament with any suitable devices. 
 Bake it until the pastry is done enough. Prob- 
 able cost, 3s. 6d. (exclusive of the ring, of 
 course). Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 VEAL, BRISKET OF, AND RICE. 
 
 Cut a brisket of veal into neat pieces, and 
 stew it in the same manner as breast of veal. 
 Boil a pint of washed rice very gradually in a 
 little more than a quart of broth till it is tender 
 and has absorbed all the moisture. Butter the 
 inside of a plain mould, and line it with the 
 boiled rice an inch and a half thick. Put the 
 veal into tha centre with a little of the thicken- 
 ing sauce. Cover the stew with rice, put the lid 
 on the mould, and bake the preparation in a 
 gentle oven. Let it remain until stiff, and be 
 careful that it does not burn. Turn it out upon 
 a dish, and send the remainder of the sauce to 
 table with it. If liked, to save trouble, a wall 
 of rice may be placed round the dish, rice 
 forming also a foundation. The addition of a 
 spoonful of curry-powder or curry-paste will 
 convert this dish into curried veal. Time to 
 bake the rice in the mould, about three-quarters 
 of an hour. Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for 
 six or eight persons. 
 
 VEAL, BRISKET OF, STEWED WITH ONIONS. 
 
 Cut the brisket of veal into small pieces con- 
 venient for serving. Rub a stewpan quickly 
 three or four times across with a freshly-cut 
 clove of garlic. Dissolve in the pan a thick slice 
 of fresh butter, put in the veal, and add three 
 large onions thinly sliced, a sprig of thyme, a 
 bay-leaf, and a little pepper and salt. Cover 
 the saucepan closely, and stew its contents as 
 gently as possible till done enough. Shake the 
 saucepan frequently to keep the veal from burn- 
 ing. Ten minutes before the dish is to be 
 served pour over the meat a little stock, if this 
 is needed. Throw in a dessert-spoonful of 
 chopped parsley. Let all boil up together, and 
 serve tho pieces of veal and the onions in a hot 
 dish with the gravy poured over them. Garnish 
 witli toasted sippets and sliced lemon. Time to 
 
VEA 
 
 972 
 
 VEA 
 
 Bimnier the veal, two hours. Probable cost, 8d. 
 per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons.^ 
 
 VEAL BROTH. , 
 
 Stew a knuckle of veal in about a gallon of 
 water, to which put two ounces of rice, or vermi- 
 celli, a little salt, and a blade of mace. When 
 the meat has become thoroughly boiled and the 
 liquor is reduced to about one-half, they may be 
 sent up to table together, or the broth may be 
 served alone. 
 
 VEAL BROTH, BROWN, 
 
 Slice one or two onions, and fry them in hot 
 fat till they are browned but not at all burnt. 
 Cut into slices a pound of veal, and b^eak the 
 bone belonging to it into small pieces. Take 
 up the onions with a slicer, and brown the meat 
 in the same fat. Pour three pints of stock or 
 water upon the meat; add the bones with any 
 others and remains of cold roast beef or poultry 
 that may be at hand. Let it boil up, skim care- 
 fully, and simmer quickly until the gravy is suf- 
 ficiently strong. Flavouring vegetables may be 
 stewed with it or not, and a spoonful of ketchup 
 may be added if liked. Time to simmer the 
 stock, about two hours. 
 
 VEAL BROTH FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 Cut two pounds of lean veal into small pieces. 
 Sprinkle a little salt upon these, and put them 
 into a saucepan with a quart of cold water. 
 Let the liquor boil, skim carefully, then simmer 
 as gently as possible. Strain it, let it get cold, 
 and remove the fat from the surface. Thicken 
 with a little arrowroot before serving. Time 
 tc simmer the veal, three hours. 
 
 VEAL, BUBBLE AND SQUEAK OF. 
 
 Take the remains of cooked veal; cut the 
 meat into neat slices, fry these in hot fat, and 
 put them before the fire to keep hot. Take 
 some boiled cabbage or spinach. Fry this also, 
 and when it is quite hot pile it on a dish, and 
 arrange the pieces of meat round it. Send 
 tomato or any kind of piquant sauce to table 
 with the veal. Time to fry the meat and the 
 greens, altogether about a quarter of an hour. 
 
 VEAL CAKE. 
 
 Take a pound and a half of cold cooked veal 
 freed from fat and skin. Mince it finely, and 
 thoroughly mix with it half a pound of good 
 bacon, also finely minced. Season the whole 
 with a tea-spoonful of grated lemon-rind, a 
 pinch of freshly-pounded mace, half a small nut- 
 meg, grated, and a little salt and cayenne. 
 Press it smoothly into a buttered dish, and bake 
 in a gentle oven. When it is done enough, 
 drain the fat from it, turn it upon a dish, and 
 serve hot or cold. If hot, a little brown gravy 
 should be sent to table with it. Beef suet finely 
 shredded may, if preferred, be substituted for 
 the bacon. If any portion of this cake is left 
 after being cut, it may be divided into slices, 
 and heated in a Dutch oven. This cake should 
 be baked in a gentle oven, or it will be dried 
 up. Time to bake the cake, an hour and a half. 
 Probable cost, veal, lOd. to lid. per pound. 
 
 VEAL CAKE (another way). 
 
 Take as much cold cooked lean veal as will 
 fill a small earthenware mould. Mince it finely, 
 and mix with it three ounces of ham or bacon. 
 
 also minced, a slice of the crumb of bread 
 soaked in milk, a small piece of butter, two 
 eggs well beaten, as much minced shallot as will 
 lie on a threepenny piece, and a little pepper, 
 salt, and pounded mace. Mix these ingredients 
 thoroughly, press them into a buttered mould, 
 and bake the preparation in a moderate oven! 
 Turn it out when cold, and garnish with pars- 
 ley. If liked, this cake may be served hot, and 
 sent to table with brown gravy. Time to bake 
 the cake, about an hour, or until it is brown. 
 
 VEAL CAKE (another way.) 
 
 Butter a plain earthenware dish or mould. 
 Fill it with alternate layers of hard-boiled yolks 
 of eggs, chopped parsley, and veal and ham 
 minced, seasoned highly, mixed thoroughly, and 
 beaten to a smooth paste. Pour a spoonful 
 or two of seasoned stock upon the meat, cover 
 the pan closely, and bake in a gentle oven. 
 When done enough, press firmly into the mould, 
 put a plate with a weight upon it, and let it 
 remain untouched till cold. Turn it out, gar- 
 nish with parsley, and serve for luncheon or 
 supper. Time to bake, about an hour. 
 
 VEAL CAKE, SUPERIOR. 
 
 Put a pint of stock made from bones into a 
 stewpan with three young onions, each stuck 
 with one clove, a small sprig of thyme, a, bay- 
 leaf, a small piece of mace, and half an ounce of 
 gelatine. Place the saucepan on the fire, and 
 stir its contents till the gelatine is dissolved. 
 To clarify it, stir into it when cold the white 
 and crushed shell of an egg beaten up with a 
 little water. Let it boil, draw it to the side, and 
 let it simmer gently without touching it for ten 
 minutes ; take it off the fire, let it settle for ten 
 minutes, and then strain it through a jelly-bag. 
 Cut a pound and a half of veal collops and 
 three-quarters of a pound of bacon or ham into 
 thin slices. Pour a spoonful or two of the 
 savoury jelly into an ordinary potting-pan or 
 earthenware dish. Let it get cold, then cover 
 with a layer of hard-boiled yolks of eggs cut 
 into slices. Place on this a neat layer of the 
 slices of veal, then a little salt, cayenne, 
 chopped parsley, and shallot, and afterwards a 
 few slices of ham. Pour a little jelly upon 
 these, and repeat the layers until the dish is full. 
 Cover th« pan closely with a stiff paste of flour 
 and water, put it in a dripping-tin three-parts 
 filled with boiling water, and keep adding more 
 water as this boils away, until the cake is done 
 enough. Take it out of the oven, and set in a 
 cool place for some hours. Turn it upon a 
 dish, and garnish with parsley. If the cake is 
 put into the oven without the water under it, 
 it will in all probability be dried up and spoilt. 
 Time to bake the cake, an hour and a quarter 
 to an hour and a half. Probable cost, 4s. Suf- 
 ficient for a breakfast, luncheon, or supper dish. 
 
 VEAL CAKES, SMALL. 
 
 Mince, season, and mix the veal and bacon 
 as in the last recipe. Divide the mixture into 
 small cakes. Dredge these all over with flour, 
 and fry in hot fat over a gentle fire. Drain 
 them well, and serve in a hot dish with brown 
 sauce, made from the trimmings ol the veal and 
 thickened, poured over them. Time to fry the 
 cakes, about a quarter of an hour. 
 
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 973 
 
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 VEAL— CALF'S BRAINS (i> la Ravigote). 
 
 Wash the brains in several waters, and free 
 them from akin and fibre, Boil them for ten 
 minutes in salt and water mixed with a table- 
 spoonful of vinegar, and when they are firm, 
 cut them into slices, dip these in a frying-batter, 
 and fry them to a light brown. Place them in 
 a circle on a hot dish with a little fried parsley 
 in the centre, and send ravigote sauce to table 
 with them. Time to fry the brains, four or five 
 minutes. Calf's brains are generally sold with 
 the head. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 VEAI CALF'S HEAD, BOILED. 
 
 Take a calf's head, cut it in two, and take out 
 the brains ; wash the head in several waters, 
 and let it soak in warm water for a quarter of 
 an hour. Place it in a saucepan of cold water, 
 and when the water comes to the boil skim 
 carefully. Half a head, without the skin, will 
 require boiling from an hour and a half to two 
 hours and a quarter, according to size : with 
 the skin it will require an hour longer. It 
 must be stewed very gently till tender. Boil 
 tender eight or ten sage-leaves, or some parsley, 
 or both ; chop them fine, and set them ready on 
 a plate. Wash the brains well in two waters; 
 put them into a basin of cold water with a 
 little salt in it, and let them soak for an hour ; 
 then pour away the cold and cover them with 
 hot water ; put them into a stewpan with 
 plenty of cold water, and boil very gently for 
 ten or fifteen minutes. Now chop them (not 
 very fine), put them into a saucepan with the 
 sage-leaves, two table-spooufuls of thin melted 
 butter, and a pinch of salt (gome add a little 
 lemon-juice), and stir them well together. 
 As soon as the brains are well warmed, skin 
 tiie tongue, trim off the roots, and put it 
 into the centre of the dish, the brains round it ; 
 or chop the brains with a shallot, a, little 
 parsley, and four hard-boiled eggs, and put 
 them into a quarter of a pint of bechamel or 
 white sauce. A calf's head is usually attended 
 by a pig's cheek, a knuckle of ham or bacon, 
 or pickled pork, greens, cauliflower, broccoli, 
 or peas, and always by parsley and butter. 
 If desired full-dressed, score it superficially, 
 beat up the yolk of an egg, and rub it over 
 the head with a feather. Powder it with a 
 seasoning of finely-minced or dried and pow- 
 dered winter savory, lemon-thyme, or sage, 
 parsley, pepper, salt, and bread-crumbs; and 
 brown it with a salamander, or in a tin 
 Dutch oven ; when it begins to dry, sprinkle a 
 little melted butter over it with a paste-brush. 
 You may garnish the dish with broiled rashers 
 of bacon. {See also recipes under Calf's Head.) 
 
 VEAL— CALF'S HEAD, HASHED. 
 
 Soak the head in water, boil it, not thor- 
 oughly, but until the meat may be cut clean 
 from the bone. Take the meat off the bone on 
 the beat side, lay it in a dish, and cover it with 
 crumbs of bread among which are a few herbs 
 cut very small, with some pepper, salt, and nut- 
 meg, and the yolks of two eggs. Set the dish 
 before the fire, and keep turning occasionally 
 that all parts of the meat may become brown. 
 Slice the remainder of the head, peel and slice 
 the tongue also. Put a pint of good gravy, or 
 of the liquor in which the head was boiled, into 
 
 a pan with an onion, a small bunch of sweeii 
 herbs, some salt, cayenne, shallot, a glassful of 
 sherry, and a little ojrster liquor. Boil these 
 together for a few minutes; then strain the 
 gravy over the meat, which should have been 
 previously dredged with flour. Fresh or pickled 
 mushrooms, truffles, morels-, and two spoonfuls 
 of ketchup should be added. Half the brains 
 beaten up with flour and butter should be 
 added, and the whole simmered together. The 
 other half of the brains are to be beaten up 
 with lemon-peel and parsley finely chopped, 
 some nutmeg, mace, and an egg. These are to 
 be fried in small cakes, also some oysters dipped 
 in yolk of egg ; with these and some good force- 
 meat balls the dish must be garnished. {See also 
 recipes under Calf's Head.) 
 
 VEAL— CALF'S HEAD PIE (to be served cold). 
 
 Scald, soak, and parboil half a calf's head, 
 with two pounds of the knuckle of veal, an onion 
 stuck with two cloves, a bunch of parsley, a 
 strip of thin lemon-rind, half a blade of mace, 
 a little salt and cayenne, and as much stock 
 made from bones as will cover the meat. Let 
 the liquor boil, and simmer it for half an hour. 
 Eemove the scum as it rises. Let the head get 
 cold, then cut off the flesh in neat pieces con- 
 venient for serving. Skin the tongue, and cut 
 it into small square pieces. Strain the liquor 
 in which the head was simmered, and dissolve 
 a little isinglass or gelatine in it, so that it 
 will jelly strongly when cold. Cut part of the 
 veal into pieces, mince the remainder, and make 
 it into forcemeat with bread-crumbs, shredded 
 beef suet, and seasoning (see Veal Foecemeat). 
 Divide this into balls the size of a nutmeg. 
 Butter a good-sized pie-dish. Line it with thin 
 slices of lean ham, and fill it with layers of the 
 calf's head, the tongue, the veal, the forcemeat 
 balls, and hard-boiled yolks of eggs. Season 
 each layer with salt, pepper, grated lemon-rmd, 
 and nutmeg. Cover the meat with strained jelly 
 gravy. Line the edges of the dish with good 
 pastry, cover with the same, ornament the sur- 
 face as fancy dictates, brush it over with beaten 
 egg, and bake in a well-heated oven, When 
 the pastry is thoroughly baked the pie is done 
 enough. In favourable weather this pie will 
 keep good for ten days or more. Probable cost, 
 6s. to 8s. Sufiicient for a luncheon or supper 
 dish. {See also recipes under Calf's Head.) 
 
 VEAL— CALF'S HEAD, PLAIN. 
 
 Take a nice calf's head and bone it, that is to 
 say, take off the bones of the lower jaw and of 
 the nose, which cut off as close to the eyes 
 as possible. Then put this into a large 
 vessel with warm water to wash and disgorge 
 the blood, or otherwise the head will look 
 reddish. Then blanch thoroughly, and let it 
 cool. Now make a white stock in the following 
 manner. Melt over the fire four ounces of finely- 
 chopped beef suet. When clear add four ounces 
 of flour, a gallon of water, two onions sliced, 
 three cloves, a clove of garlic, two bunches of 
 herbs, two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and plenty 
 of pepper and salt. Stir the preparation over 
 the fire. When boiling put in the calf's head 
 and tongue, lay a round of paper over the pan, 
 and simmer for two hours and a half. When 
 done, drain them. Take out the tongue, flay it. 
 
VEA 
 
 974 
 
 VEA 
 
 and then replace it in the head. A calf's head 
 must be served up quite hot, with the sauce 
 called au pauvre Jwmme (poor man's sauce), 
 namely, minced shallots and parsley, vinegar, 
 salt and pepper, and the brains well minced. 
 {See also recipes under Calt's Head.) 
 
 VEAI — CALF'S LIVER, FRIED. 
 
 Take two pounds of calf's liver. Cut it into 
 slices, and soak these in water for half an hour. 
 Dry them in a soft cloth, and dip them into 
 flour. Fry them with a little fat, and turn 
 them aboiit that they may be equally cooked. 
 When they are lightly brov/ned, sprinkle over 
 them a savoury powder made with equal quan- 
 tities of chopped parsley and finely-shredded 
 young onions, and a little pepper and salt. 
 Pour a little stock over the liver, let it simmer 
 a few minutes, add the strained juice of a lemon, 
 and serve- the liver on a hot dish with the gravy 
 poured over it. If liked, this dish may be 
 enriched by adding a pinch of thyme, ^ bay-leaf, 
 and a glassful of light wine to the stock. Fried 
 bacon may then be served with it. Time, from 
 ten to fifteen minutes to dress the liver. Prob- 
 able cost of calf's liver, lOd. per pound. Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. (See also Bacon 
 AND Calp's Liveb.) 
 VEAL, CHOOSING OF. 
 
 The flesh of veal ought to be white, approach- 
 ing to pink, with the fat firm. It should not 
 be too large or it will be coarse and hard. The 
 vein in the shoulder should be of a bright rfed, 
 and the kidneys should be covered with fat. 
 If the flesh be clammy and discoloured by spots 
 of various hues, the veal is unfit for use. veal 
 is best when it is from two to three months 
 old. The flesh of the bull-calf is suited for 
 joints, that of the cow-calf for made dishes. 
 The latter possesses the udder, which causes it 
 to be preferred. That part of the loin which is 
 under the kidney first begins to taint. It should 
 therefore be examined carefully before being 
 purchased. When the udder is skewered back 
 it is always well to take out the skewer in order 
 to ascertain whether the under partis perfectly 
 sweet. Under the pretext of making veal white 
 a barbarous practice has prevailed of bleeding 
 the calves daily until they have scarcely any 
 blood left before killing them. Although this 
 method of slaughtering the animal is not now 
 universally adopted, it is still carried on to a 
 large extent. The humane housekeeper would 
 do well to- ask the butcher whether or not the 
 meat is killed in this way, and to refuse to 
 purchase it unless the calf has been deprived of 
 life with as little pain as possible. "It is 
 necessary^ to observe," says M. Ude, " that the 
 veal you intend to serve for dishes must always 
 be very white and fat; what you use for sauces 
 is not of so much consequence; but it is certain 
 that very white veal is more healthy than com- 
 mon veal; red veal will disorder a great many 
 stomachs, white never does." 
 
 VEAL CHOPS, BROILED IN PAPER. 
 
 Take the chops from the neck, remove the 
 chine-bone, gristle, and skin, and fry gently in 
 a little butter. Prepare for each chop a piece 
 of doubled stiff white paper sufficiently large 
 to leave a margin an inch and a half wide round 
 the chop. Butter this well, lay on it a thin 
 
 slice of bacon, a spoonful of thick white sauce, 
 the cutlet, another spoonful of sauce, and a 
 second slice of bacon ; double down the edges of 
 the paper securely. Lay the chops on a gridiron, 
 and place this at a considerable height above' 
 a clear fire. Let them broil gently, and turn fre- 
 quently. Serve on a hot dish in the papers. 
 Garnish with shced lemon. Time to broil, 
 fifteen minutes. Probable cost. Is. per pound. 
 Sufficient, two pounds of chops for four persona. 
 
 VEAL CHOP, STEWED WITH CARROTS. 
 
 Take from the neck a large chop, about one 
 pound in weight, saw off the chine-bone, trim 
 the chop neatly, and fry it in a little hot fat 
 for three or loar minutes till it is lightly 
 browned on both sides. Take it up, drain it, 
 and put it into -a small, clean saucepan with two 
 large carrots cut into thick slices, an onion 
 stuck with two cloves, and a little pepper and 
 salt. Pour over the meat as much boiling stock 
 as will cover it; put the lid on the saucepan, 
 and let its contents simmer gently until the 
 carrot is tender, when the meat also will be 
 sufficiently done. Put the chop on a dish, gar- 
 nish with the carrots, strain the gravy over 
 all, and serve very hot. Time to simmer the 
 chop, about an hour. Probable cost, veal. Is. 
 per pound. Sufficient for one person. 
 
 VEAL, CHUMP OF, STEWED. 
 
 Take the chump end of a loin of veaU Bone 
 it, and tie it in shape with tape. The butcher 
 will bone it if desired. Put it into a stewpan, 
 and pour half a pint of veal stock upon it. Boil 
 this quickly till it begins to thicken, draw it 
 back, and let it acquire a little colour; then 
 pour over it a quart of nicely-flavoured stock 
 and a glassful of light wine, and let it simmer 
 very gently till the meat is tender. A quarter 
 of an hour before it is to be served take it up, 
 drain it, and put it in the oven. Strain the 
 liquor, boil quickly till it is reduced to half 
 glaze, then baste the meat with it until it looks 
 bright and glossy. Put it on a dish, and gar- 
 nish with glazed carrots, or onions, or with 
 boiled cauliflowers. Tomatoes, mushrooms, or 
 any kind of dressed vegetables may be served 
 with this dish, and brown sauce, Italian sauce, 
 bechamel, tomato sauce, etc., may be sent to 
 table with it. Time to simmer the veal, an hour 
 and a half, or rather more. Probable 'lost, lOd. 
 per pound. 
 
 VEAL, COLD (k ta Bourgeoise). 
 
 Prepare the veal the day before it is wanted, 
 according to the directions in the preceding 
 recipe. Turn it out into a bowl, pour the gravy 
 over, and let it get cold. When wanted, turn 
 the whole upon a dish, and serve with the gravy 
 set to jelly round it. 
 
 VEAL, COLD, BAKED. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of cold roast veal 
 free from skin and gristle. Mince it flnely, and 
 with it two or three slices of bacon. Add the 
 bulk of the mince in finely-grated bread-crumbs, 
 together with a little salt and cayenne, a 
 quarter of a tea-spoonful of minced lemon-rind, 
 and a pinch of pounded mace. Mix these in- 
 gredients thoroughly, stir them into a cupful 
 of veal gravy, add two well-beaten eggs, and 
 pour the whole into a small buttered dish. Bake 
 
VEA 
 
 975 
 
 VEA 
 
 in a well-heated oven, and serve with gravy in 
 a tureen. Time to bake, half an hour. Prob- 
 able cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 4d. Suf- 
 ficient for two persons. 
 VEAL, COLD, HASHED. 
 
 Take about one pound of cold veal, and cut 
 the lean part into thin slices, free from skin and 
 gristle. Season these with a little salt and 
 pepper, and dredge a table-spoonful of flour 
 upon them. Mince a moderate-sized onion 
 finely. Put it in a saucepan with the bones, 
 skin, and trimmings of the veal, and any 
 flavouring ingredients that may be chosen ; cover 
 all with stock or water, and simmer the gravy 
 gently for an hour. Strain it, pour it back into 
 the saucepan, and put into it the pieces of veal. 
 Let them simmer in it till they are tender, but 
 without boiling. Add a tea-spoonful of vinegar 
 or lemon-juice. Place the veal on a dish. Gar- 
 nish with toasted sippets and a little fried 
 bacon. Pour the gravy round the veal, and 
 serve the hash very hot. Time, about an hour 
 to simmer the meat. Probable cost, 4d., ex- 
 clusive of the cold meat and bacon. Sufficient 
 for three or four persons. 
 
 VEAL, COLD, MINCED PLAINLY. 
 
 Take one pound of cold veal, free it from the 
 bone, skin, and almost entirely from fat ; cut it 
 into small pieces with a sharp knife, and after- 
 wards mince them finely. Season with a little 
 pepper and salt, a pinch of pounded mace or 
 grated nutmeg, and the rind of a quarter of a 
 small lemon lightly grated; cover with a cloth, 
 and leave it in a cool place till wanted. Break 
 the bone of the veal, and put the pieces into a 
 saucepan with the trimmings and skin, a quar- 
 ter of the rind of a lemon, a small bunch of 
 parsley, a sprig of tiyme, and a few pepper- 
 corns. Pour upon these ingredients a pint and 
 a half of stock or water, cover the saucepan 
 closely, and stew the gravy gently till it is 
 strong and pleasantly flavoured. When they 
 can be had, a slice of carrot, a stick of celery, 
 an ounce of boiled or unboiled ham, or a little 
 bacon - rind, may be stewed with the gravy. 
 Strain it into a bowl, and when cold free 
 it entirely from fat. Moisten the mince thor- 
 oughly with it. Melt a slice of fresh butter 
 in a saucepan. Mix smoothly with it a dessert- 
 spoonful of flour and about two table-spoonfuls 
 of thick cream or milk. Stir the mince into 
 this, and let it get thoroughly hot by the side 
 of the fire, but on no account allow it to boil. 
 Pour the prejjaration into a dish, garnish 
 with toasted sippets, and serve very hot. A 
 few thin rashers of fried bacon may be served 
 as an accompaniment. Time, about two hours 
 to simmer the gravy; twenty minutes to heat 
 the mince. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the 
 cold meat. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 VEAL, COLD, MINCEO WITH MUSHROOMS OR 
 OYSTERS. 
 
 Take a, pound of cold cooked veal, and trim 
 away the gristle and the brown edges. A little 
 fat may be added or not; this is a matter of 
 taste. Mince the meat finely, season with salt, 
 cayenne, and pounded mace, and heat it — with- 
 out letting it reach the point of boiling — in a 
 pint of rich sauce. Stir into the sauce at the 
 moment of serving half a pint of mushrooms 
 
 stewed till tender with a slice of butter and 
 minced. Turn the preparation on a dish, and 
 garnish with fried sippets. If liked, a dozen 
 or more oysters may be used instead of the 
 mushrooms. They should be bearded and put 
 into the mince a quarter of a minute before it is 
 taken from the fire. The oyster broth should, 
 of course, be added. Time, till thoroughly hot. 
 The mince should be very slowly heated. 
 
 VEAL, COLD, TO RAGOUT. 
 
 Cut the white part of the cold veal into small 
 round cutlets about the third of an inch thick, 
 and free them from skin and gristle. Break up 
 the bones of the veal, and with them, the skin 
 and trimmings of the meat, and any flavouring 
 ingredients that may be chosen, make a little 
 good gravy. Strain this, and thicken it with 
 a small piece of brown roux, or with a small 
 slice of butter. Season the gravy rather 
 highly with pepper, mace or nutmeg, and an- 
 chovy, or mushroom-powder. Flour the slices 
 of veal, and fry them in- hot fat till they are 
 lightly browned. Drain them, put them on a 
 dish, pour the gravy over, and serve very hot. 
 Time, an hour or more to make the gravy. 
 VEAL, COLD, TO RE-COOK. 
 
 Cold veal may be served in various ways, for 
 which recipes are given under the different head- 
 ings. It may be minced, hashed, or made into 
 croquettes and rissoles, curried, made into 
 minced eoUops, and served with tartar sauce, or 
 made into a mould. For the latter method pro- 
 ceed as follows. Cut cold cooked veal into slices, 
 and mince them finely, fat and lean together. 
 Season as for minced veal, with salt, pepper, 
 grated nutmeg, and a little lemon-rind. Moisten 
 with white stock, and bind the whole together 
 with yolk of egg. Press it into a buttered mould, 
 coyer closely, and put it into a pan of fast- 
 boiling water. Let it simmer gently for an 
 hour, or longer if large. Turn it out, and serve 
 with white gravy, or if preferred brush it over 
 after it is turned out with beaten egg, sprinkle 
 finely-grated bread-crumbs thickly over it, 
 brown it in a brisk oven, or before the fire, and 
 send brown sauce to table with it. Garnish 
 with cut lemon and parsley. Time to boil the 
 mould, one hour or more. 
 VEAL, COLLARED, OR GALANTINE OF VEAL. 
 
 Take a fine breast of veal. Put it into a 
 stewpan with as much cold water as will cover 
 it, and put with it an onion and a carrot, half a 
 dozen peppercorns, a moderate-sized lump of 
 sugar, and a pinch of salt. Bring the liquor 
 quickly to the boil, skim carefully, then draw 
 the saucepan back and let the veal simmer 
 gently for two hours. Take it up, remove the 
 bones and the gristle, and lay it, skin down- 
 wards, flat upon the table. Have ready prepared 
 half a pound of lean ham cut into thin strips, 
 four truffles cleaned and thinly sliced, and a 
 forcemeat made with the hard-boiled yolks of 
 twelve eggs pounded smoothly with three ounces 
 of clarified butter, the grated rind of a lemon, as 
 much grated nutmeg as will cover a sixpence, 
 a salt-spoonful of white pepper, a tea-spoonful 
 of powdered sweet herbs, two tea-spoonfuls of 
 chopped parsley, and a tea-spoonful of anchovy. 
 Eub the veal quickly across with a piece of 
 freshly-cut garlic, sprinkle a little salt upon it. 
 
VEA 
 
 976 
 
 VEA 
 
 and rub the strained juice of a lemon into it. 
 Spread the egg forcemeat equally overj and 
 lay the truffle and ham upon this in alternate 
 lines. Roll the veal up very tightly, bind it 
 with tape, and tie it in a cloth. Sew it up 
 securely. Put it again into the liquor in which 
 it was simmered, add the bones and trim- 
 mings, let it boil up, then simmer as gently as 
 possible three hours longer. Let it remain in 
 the liquor half an hour after it is taken from 
 the fire. Put it on a board, lay a large dish upon 
 it, place a heavy weight on top, and let the veal 
 remain until cold. B*ush over with liquid glaze, 
 and garnish with stiff aspic jelly cut into 
 cubes, diamonds, etc. If preferred, good veal 
 forcemeat may be used instead of the egg force- 
 meat, and the truffles may be omitted. Very 
 good soup may be made of the liquor in which 
 the veal was stewed. Time, two hours to sim- 
 mer the veal the first time, three hours the 
 second. Probable cost. Is. 2d. per pound. 
 
 VEAL COLLOPS, BRAISED. 
 
 Cut about a pound of the fillet of veal into 
 neat rounds half an inch thick and about the 
 size of a crown piece. Pick the leaves from a 
 handful of parsley, wash them and chop them 
 small, then mix with them a minced shallot and 
 a small bunch of chives. Butter a stewpan 
 thickly, sprinkle some of the herbs into it, and 
 place in it alternate layers of veal and herbs 
 until all the ingredients are used. Season each 
 layer of veal with salt and pepper, and add a 
 small slice of butter or a tea-spoonful of olive oil 
 occasionally. Cover the whole with slices of 
 bacon, and lay a round of oiled paper on the 
 top. Put the lid on the stewpan, put a few red- 
 hot cinders upon it (if this can be done), and 
 stew the veal as gently as possible over a slow 
 fire till it is tender. Arrange the pieces of veal 
 in a dish. Half a glassful of light wine should 
 be poured in when the meat is half dressed. Put 
 a little brown sauce into the stewpan, let it boil, 
 and pour it over the coUops. 
 
 VEAL COLLOPS, MADE WITH COOKED VEAL. 
 
 Take the remains of roast veal. Cut Hie meat 
 into slices three-quarters of an inch thick, three 
 inches long, and two inches across. Gash these 
 with a sharp knife, and sprinkle upon them salt 
 and cayenne, pounded mace, or grated nutmeg. 
 Cover them, and lay them nside till wanted. 
 Break up the bones, and put them with the skin 
 and trimmings of the meat into a saucepan. 
 Cover with stock or water, and add an onion, 
 a pinch of powdered mace, a few peppercorns, a 
 small roll of lemon-rind, and a little salt. Let 
 the gravy simmer till it is strong and pleasantly 
 flavoured. Thicken it, and, supposing 'there is 
 half a pint of it, stir into it a few drops of 
 strained lemon-juice, a table-spoonful of mush- 
 room ketchup, and two table-spoonfuls of shetryS 
 Flour and fry the coUops in hot fat, put them in 
 a dish, the sauce over them, and serve. Fried 
 rashers of bacon should accompany this dish. 
 If liked, a few forcemeat-balls may be inter- 
 spersed with the meat in the dish, and three 
 table-spoonfuls of thick cream, or two table- 
 spoonfuls of milk beaten up with the yolk of an 
 egg, may be stirred into the sauce. Time to 
 fry the coUops, about six minutes; one hour to 
 make the gravy. 
 
 VEAL COLLOPS, MADE WITH FRESH MEAT. 
 
 No. 1. — ^Veal coUops should be taken from the 
 shoulder or the fillet. Cut the meat in slices 
 half an inch thick, three inches long, and two 
 broad. Flatten them with a cutlet-bat, and 
 dredge them well with flour. Take as many 
 rashers of bacon a quarter of an inch thick as 
 there are slices of veal. Fry these in a saute- 
 pan. Take them up, put them on a dish, and 
 fry the veal in the fat which has come from the 
 bacon. When it is nicely browned on both 
 sides, place it neatly on a dish, and arrange 
 the bacon round it. Pour the fat out of the pan, 
 and dissolve a small slice of butter in it. Mix 
 a little flour smoothly with this, and moisten 
 gradually with a little stock or water. Let it 
 boil till smooth, add salt and pepper, and pour 
 it round the veal in the dish. Serve very hot. 
 Time to fry the meat, about twenty minutes. 
 No. 2. — Cut. the collops as before. Hub them 
 quickly over with a freshly-cut shallot, and 
 sprinkle a little salt, pepper, and grated nut- 
 meg upon them. Dip them in egg and bread- 
 crumbs, or in flour, and fry them in hot fat till 
 they are lightly and equally browned on both 
 sides. Drain theih, and put them in a sauce- 
 pan, pour over them as much stock as will cover 
 them, add a small roll of lemon-rind, a blade of 
 mace, half a dozen peppercorns, and an onion, 
 and let them simmer gently till done enough. 
 Put them on a hot dish, strain the gravy upon 
 them, and serve. Time to simmer the veal, half 
 an hour. No. 3.— Divide the veal into slices as 
 before, and take an equal number of thin rashers 
 of bacon of the same shape and size. Lay the 
 bacon on the veal, cover with a thin layer of 
 veal forcemeat, sprinkle a little cayenne upon 
 this, and roll up the collops tightly. Skewer 
 each one firmly. Melta little butter in a stew- 
 pan, put in the rolls and turn them about till 
 they are equally and lightly browned. Put 
 them on a, hot dish before the fire. Pour off 
 the fat in which they were fried, and dissolve 
 a slice of fresh butter in the pan. Mix a little 
 flour smoothly with it, and add as much stock 
 or water as will make the sauce of the con- 
 sistency of cream, together with a little salt, 
 pepper, pounded mace, and a small piece of 
 lemon-rind for seasoning. Simmer the rolls 
 gently in the sauce for an hour and a half. 
 When serving, garnish with sprigs of cauliflower. 
 Probable cost, veal. Is. per pound. 
 
 VEAL COLLOPS, MINCED, MADE WITH COLD 
 MEAT. 
 
 Take the remains of cold cooked veal. With 
 a pound and a half of veal, freed from skin and 
 gristle, mix half a pound of lean Ham or tongue. 
 Cut the meat into thin pieces, mince finely, and 
 season with a pinch of cayenne, half a small 
 nutmeg, grated, half a tea-spoonful of white 
 pepper, half a tea-spoonful o^ mixed mustard, 
 the grated rind and strained juice of half a 
 lemon, and a few drops of anchovy. Moisten, 
 the mixture with a slice of fresh butter clari- 
 fled, and a spoonful or two of strong stock, and 
 let it form a stiff paste. Make this into neat 
 round collops, brush " each one with clarifled 
 butter, dredge flour upon it, then dip it in egg 
 and seasoned bread-crumbs : repeat this opera- 
 tion twice. Put the collops in a baking-dish. 
 Place a small piece of butter upon each, and 
 
VEA 
 
 977 
 
 VEA 
 
 bake in a quick oven. When lightly browned, 
 serve them in a circle on a hot dish with cold 
 tartar sauce in the centre (see Tartar Sauce). 
 Time to bake the coUops, a quarter of an hour. 
 
 VEAL COLLOPS (Scotch). 
 
 No. 1. — Cut the veal into small round coUops 
 half an inch thick and about three inches across. 
 Beat them with a cutlet-bat to flatten them, 
 and sprinkle upon them salt, white pepper, and 
 grated nutmeg, or, if preferred, dip them in 
 egg and seasoned bread-crumbs. Dissolve a 
 slice of fresh butter in a saucepan over a gentle 
 fire. Fry the collops in this till they are 
 equally and lightly browned. Drain them, lift 
 them into a hot dish, and pour over them a little 
 good brown sauce seasoned rather highly, and 
 flavoured with lemon-juice. Serve very hot with 
 thin slices of bacon round the dish. Time to 
 fry the collops, about four minutes. No. 2. — 
 Fry the collops as above. Lift them upon a hot 
 dish before the fire. Dissolve a slice of fresh 
 butter in the saucepan, and as it melts mix a 
 table-spoonful of flour smoothly with it. Stir 
 it for two or three minutes, then add gradually 
 as much stock made from bones as will make the 
 sauce of the consistency of cream. Put in also 
 an anchovy and half a dozen button mushrooms 
 chopped small. Let the sauce simmer for ten 
 minutes, then add a little salt and white pepper, 
 a pinch of grated nutmeg, and the fried collops. 
 Let them simmer without boiling for ten or 
 fifteen minutes, and serve them in a hot dish 
 with the gravy poured over, and toasted bacon 
 round them. Time, four minutes to fry the 
 collops, ten minutes to simmer them in the 
 gravy. Probable cost, veal, Is. per pound. 
 
 VEAL CONES. 
 
 Mince the veal with a little ham or tongue, 
 and form it into a paste as for Veal Collops, 
 Minced. If liked, this paste may be moistened 
 with cream instead of stock. Form it into 
 cones about three inches high. Brush these over 
 with beaten egg, dredge bread-crumbs thickly 
 upon them, and fry them in hot fat till they are 
 brightly browned, or bake them in a brisk oven. 
 Put a layer of fried bread-crumbs in a dish, 
 place the cones upon them, and send tartar 
 sauce, or, if preferred, brown sauce, to table 
 with them. 
 
 VEAL CONSOMME, FOR MAKING WHITE 
 SAUCES. 
 
 Rub the inside of a bright saucepan with a 
 coarse towel briskly for a minute or two. Heat 
 it a little, and rub it with butter. Lay in 
 it two or three slices of lean ham or bacon, then 
 add two pounds of the neck or knuckle of veal 
 cut into pieces about four inches square. Pour 
 in half a pint of stock made from bones. 
 Place the veal on a brisk fire for about twenty 
 minutes, or till it is very lightly browned. Probe 
 it in several places with the point of a knife 
 till the juice flows freely. Put it again on the 
 fire till the gravy begins to thicken without 
 being at all coloured. Turn the meat over once 
 or twice, pour upon it boiling stock made from 
 bones in the proportion of a pint and a half of 
 stock to a pound of meat. Let the liquor boil, 
 throw in a little salt, and skim it well, then 
 draw the saucepan to the side, and simmer the 
 gravy very gently for about two hours. Strain 
 3k 
 
 it into a bowl, and when cold remove the fat- 
 from the surface. An onion, a carrot,' a bunch 
 of sweet herbs, two or three sticks of celery, 
 half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, and a blade 
 of mace should be simmered with the gravy 
 to flavour it. A few button mushrooms will 
 greatly improve it, but they may be omitted. 
 The bones of poultry may, if liked, be sub- 
 stituted for a portion of the veal. Time to 
 simmer the gravy, about two hours. Probable 
 cost, knuckle of veal, 5d. to 7d. per pound. 
 
 VEAL, CROQUETTES OF. 
 
 Eemove the skin, gristle, and sinew from some 
 cold cooked veal. Mince it finely, and with one 
 pound of veal mince four ounces of ham, tongue, 
 or bacon. Season the mixture with salt, white 
 pepper, and grated nutmeg, and put it in a 
 saucepan ; stir for a quarter of an hour over a 
 gentle fire with an ounce of butter rolled in 
 flour, one table-spoonful of thick cream, and 
 one table-spoonful of very strong stock made 
 from the bones and trimmings of /the veal. Turn 
 the preparation upon a dish, and spread it to a 
 smooth layer about an inch thick. Let it get 
 quite cold and stiff, then form it to the shape of 
 small balls of corks. Egg and bread-crumb the 
 croquettes, and leave them in a cool place for 
 an hour ; then egg and bread-crumb them again. 
 Put them into a wire frying-basket, plunge them 
 into boiling fat, and let them remain until they 
 are brightly browned all over. Drain them 
 thoroughly, serve on a hot napkin, and garnish 
 with parsley. 
 
 VEAL CURRY, FORCEMEAT BALLS FOR. 
 
 If liked, a few forcemeat balls may be put 
 into the curry. To make them, boil an egg 
 hard, pound the yolk in a mortar, mix with it 
 some finely-grated bread-crumbs, a pinch of 
 salt, and a seasoning of curry-powder or paste. 
 Eub a small slice of fresh butter into the mix- 
 ture, form it into balls the size of small marbles, 
 throw these into fast-boiling water for a couple 
 of minutes, and they will be ready for use. 
 
 VEAL CURRY, MADE WITH COLD COOKED 
 VEAL. 
 
 Take about two pounds of cold cooked veal, 
 and cut it into neat pieces about a quarter of 
 an inch thick. Slice four onions and one apple, 
 and fry them in fat, turning them about till they 
 are soft. Eub them through a sieve, and mix 
 with the pulp a table-spoonful of curry-paste or 
 curry-powder, a dessert-spoonful of ground rice, 
 a pinch of salt, and a little stock or water. Boil 
 the sauce till it is smooth, put in the pieces of 
 veal, draw the pan back, and simmer the meat 
 gently in the sauce for about half an hour. 
 Dish the curry neatly, and send rice boiled for 
 curry to table on a separate dish. Time, about 
 three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 6d., 
 exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. 
 
 VEAL CURRV, MADE WITH FRESH MEAT. 
 
 Veal may be curried whether it is cooked or 
 not. The fresh meat is, of course, to be pre- 
 ferred, though the other is very good. To curry 
 fresh veal, take about two pounds of veal from 
 the breast or cutlets from the neck. Cut it into 
 neat pieces convenient for serving, rub these 
 over with curry-powder, and fry them in hot fat 
 
VEA 
 
 978 
 
 VEA 
 
 till they are brightly browned. Take them up, 
 put them into a saucepan with a pint of stock, 
 and simmer them gently till tender. Slice a 
 large onion, and mince an apple finely. Fry 
 these in the fat in which the veal was fried, till 
 they are quite soft. Rub them patiently through 
 a sieve, then mix with the pulp a table-spooliful 
 of curry-paste, a dessert-spoonful of ground rice, 
 a pinch of salt, and a tea-spoonful of finely- 
 minced lemon-rind. Add gradually the stock 
 in which the veal has simmered, let the sauce 
 boil up, put the cutlets in again, and simmer all 
 together over a gentle fire for half an hour. 
 Place the meat on a dish, pour the sauce over, 
 and send rice boiled for curry to table on a 
 separate dish. If liked, a little lemon-juice may 
 be used instead of the sour apple, and milk may 
 be substituted for the veal stock. Some cooks- 
 put a clove of garlic into the curry, but this is 
 a matter of taste. Time to simmer the veal, 
 three-quarters of an hour in the stock and half 
 an hour in the gravy. Probable cost, veal, lOd. 
 to Is. per pound. Suflicient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 VEAL, CUSHION OF, BRAISED 
 
 Prepare the veal as in the next recipe, then, 
 instead of larding it, make deep incisions in 
 the fleshy portion of it, and fill these alternately 
 with pieces of truffle or tongue. Cover the 
 cushion with thin slices of fat bacon, and braise 
 the veal according to the instructions already 
 given. Serve with rich white sauce. Time to 
 braise the veal, about three hours. Probable 
 cost, veal. Is. per pound. Sufficient for eight or 
 ten persons. 
 
 VEAL, CUSHION OF, BRAISED, SUPERIOR. 
 
 The cushion of veal, or the noix, as it is called 
 in French cookery-books, is simply that part 
 of the leg which is covered by the udder. It 
 should be separated from the under part of the 
 fillet with a sharp knife, and the udder should 
 be left whole, closely adhering to the cushion 
 in its original position. The sinewy parts may 
 be cut away. Take the cushion thus prepared, 
 and lard the fleshy portion evenly and neatly 
 with strips of fat bacon. Butter a braising- 
 pan, and cover the bottom with a layer of 
 sliced vegetables (onions, carrots, celery, and 
 herbs), put in the larded veal and any bones 
 and trimmings of meat that may be at hand, 
 pour in as much stock as will just reach the 
 surface of the veal, and braise it very gently 
 over a slow fire. Butter a round of paper to 
 fit the stewpan, lay this over the meat, put the 
 lid over all. Every now and then the paper 
 must be lifted and the meat basted with the 
 gravy. Stew very gently indeed till the veal 
 is tender. Remove the lid and the paper, and 
 put the stewpan into the oven to brown the veal. 
 Still baste it occasionally. The gravy should now 
 be considerably reduced, and very thick. If it 
 is, put the meat on a dish, and strain the gravy 
 over it. If it is not, boil it quickly in a sauce- 
 pan with the lid off until it becomes so. The 
 fat must, of course, be removed from it. Gar- 
 nish the dish with a mixture of dressed vege- 
 tables, and send sorrel to table with it. The 
 Borrel may be prepared as follows. Wash and 
 pick the stalks from three pounds of fresh sorrel. 
 Boil for fifteen minutes in a quart of water 
 
 salted, then drain, and chop small. When sorrel 
 is not obtainable spinach will do. Melt an 
 ounce and a half of butter, mix with it one 
 ounce of flour. When smooth add a gill of 
 broth and the sorrel. Stir over the fire for a 
 few minutes, add another gill of broth, and 
 stir again for twenty minutes. Mix three eggs 
 with half a gill of milk, pour this into the 
 sorrel, and stir over the fire for five minutes. If 
 liked, the veal can be laid upon the sorrel in the 
 dish. Time to braise the veal, about three 
 hours. Probable cost. Is. per pound, 
 VEAL CUSTARD. 
 
 Break three fresh eggs into a bowl (take out 
 the specks), and beat them till li^ht. Stir into 
 them gradually half a pint of boiling veal gravy, 
 add a seasoning of salt and cayenne, a pinch 
 of powdered mace, and a tea-spoonful of lightly- 
 grated lemon-rind. Butter some cups, and 
 three-parts fill them with the custard. Bake 
 them in a gentle oven till they are set, then 
 turn them upon a dish, and pour a little good 
 veal gravy round them. If preferred, the cus- 
 tard may be baked in a small dish edged with 
 pastry. Time to bake the custard, fifteen to 
 twenty minutes. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS. 
 
 Veal cutlets may either be cut from the best 
 end of the neck, or what is called a veal outlet 
 may be taken from the fillet. Chops only are 
 taken from the loin. If cut from the neck the 
 chine-bone, gristle, and skin should be removed, 
 and the upper part of the rib-bones shortened. 
 After being trimmed, the meat should be beaten 
 with a cutlet-bat to make it smooth. A veal 
 cutlet when trimmed weighs from six to eight 
 ounces. Probable cost Is. to Is. 2d. per pound. 
 VEAL CUTLETS (another way). 
 
 Take two or three cutlets about three-quarters 
 of an inch thick from the best end of the neck 
 of veal. Flatten them with the cutlet-bal;, 
 sprinkle pepper and salt upon them, and fry 
 them in butter or lard six minutes on each 
 side. Take them up, drain them, and put them 
 aside till cool. Take a sheet of stiff paper for 
 each cutlet. Trim the edges to make it as 
 nearly as possible of the shape of the cutlet, 
 and be careful to leave a tolerably wide margin 
 for folding over. Oil the paper, lay on it a slice 
 of bacon, a spoonful of sauce, the cutlet, 
 another spoonful of sauce, and another slice 
 of bacon. Double the edges of the paper all 
 round that the sauce may not escape. When 
 the cutlets are to be served, broil them over 
 a very slow fire, and turn them over .that they 
 may be equally cooked. Serve them on a dish 
 in the papers. The sauce with which they are 
 to be covered may be made as follows. Thicken 
 a pint of nicely-flavoured stock with an ounce 
 of flour. Boil it till it is smooth. Strain it, 
 put it back into the saucepan, and boil till it 
 i^ -reduced to half the quantity. Stir into it 
 a little grated ham, a little parsley, half a tea- 
 spoonful of minced shallotB,~one or two chopped 
 mushrooms if they are to be had, and a little 
 pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and keep stir- 
 ring for a few minutes. The sauce should form 
 a stiff jelly when cold, and if the stock of which 
 it is made is not sufficiently strong for this a 
 little gelatine may be dissolved in it to make 
 
VEA 
 
 979 
 
 VEA 
 
 it so. Time to broil the outlets, a quarter of 
 an hour. Probable cost. Is. to Is. 2d. per 
 pound. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS (another way). 
 
 Soak the cutlets in oil for an hour, and put 
 into the oil a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, a 
 bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, 
 a small onion finely minced, and a little pepper 
 and salt. Drain and dry them. Lay each cut- 
 let on a sheet of white paper which has been 
 well saturated with oil, cover with bread- 
 crumbs, divide the fluid in which they have 
 been soaked equally among the cutlets, and lay 
 a slice of bacon upon each. Wrap the cutlets 
 in stiff white paper, and fold the edges so that 
 the juice cannot escape. Broil the cutlets some 
 distance above a clear fire, and turn them that 
 they may be equally cooked. Sometimes cut- 
 lets thus prepared are roasted before a gentle 
 fire, instead of being broiled. Ravigote sauce, 
 or good gravy, or a little lemon-juice, may be 
 served with the cutlets, or they may be sent to 
 table with their own sauce only, jft is a good 
 plan to interpose a piece of oiled paper be- 
 tween the paper envelope and the heated grid- 
 iron. Time to broil the cutlets, about twenty 
 minutes. {See also Ciitlbts, Veal.) 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS (4 la Dauphine). 
 
 Take six fine cutlets of veal, and pare them 
 on one side only, but all on the same side : 
 lard them like a fricaudeau, only let the bacon 
 be cut finer; let them be braised also in the 
 same mannes' as a fricandeau; then reduce the 
 liquor in which they have been stewed, and 
 glaze them with it. Serve up with either endive 
 or sorrel. Probable cost of veal cutlets, from 
 Is. to Is. 2d. per pound. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS {k la Financlere). 
 
 Take the best end of a neck of veal. Saw 
 off the chine-bone and the rib-bones so as to 
 make the cutlets about three inches long, and 
 divide the meat into cutlets of an even thick- 
 ness. Trim them neatly, flatten them with a 
 wooden bat, and lard, through the lean part, 
 evenly and closely with quarter-inch strips of 
 fat bacon. Line the bottom of a small stewpan 
 with sliced carrot, onion, and celery, and add 
 a bunch of herbs and an onion stuck with six 
 cloves. Lay the cutlets upon the vegetables, 
 pour upon them as much stock or water as will 
 barely touch the surface of the veal, and cover 
 the meat with a round of oiled paper. Place 
 the stewpan on a gentle fire, and let its con- 
 tents simmer as gently as possible till the cut- 
 lets are .tender. Baste frequently with the 
 liquor in the pan. Take up the cutlets, and put 
 them on a dish with the larded side uppermost. 
 Strain the stock in which they were stewed. 
 Thicken with a little piece of brown thickening. 
 Let it simmer by the side of the fire that it may 
 throw up the grease, which should be carefully 
 removed. Stir into the sauce a wine-glassful of 
 ketchup, a wine-glassful of sherry or Madeira, 
 and a pinch of cayenne. Pour the sauce round 
 the veal cutlets, and serve very hot. Stewed 
 mushrooms, or truffles, or different kinds of 
 cooked vegetables, may be served with this 
 dish. Time to simUier the cutlets, about an 
 hour and a half. Probable cost, veal. Is. to 
 Is. 2d. per pound. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS {k la Maintenon or en Papillotes). 
 
 This mode of dressing cutlets is said to have 
 been invented by Madame de Maintenon, liouis 
 XIV.'s favourite, to tempt the failing appetite 
 of the king when he was advanced in age. Take 
 some cutlets from the beat end of the neck of 
 veal. Saw off the chine-bone, trim away the 
 skin and gristle, shorten the rib-bones, and pare 
 away the meat from the tip of the bones. Fry 
 the cutlets in butter or lard till they are lightly 
 browned on both sides. Take them up, drain 
 them, and put them aside. Put a small bunch 
 of sweet herbs into a stewpan with a little 
 minced shallot, a roll of thin lemon-rind, and 
 a slice of fat bacon cut into dice. Pour upon 
 these ingredients a pint of strong veal stook, 
 or veal stock with a little gelatine dissolved in 
 it. Add the cutlets, salt and pepper as required, 
 cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents 
 simmer very gently till the veal is tender. Take 
 up the cutlets, and set them aside to cool; strain 
 the liquor, and set that aside also. It ought to 
 form a stiff jelly when cold. When the cutlets 
 are wanted, take as many sheets of stiff white 
 paper as there are cutlets. Cut away the 
 corners to give them something of the shape of 
 a heart, but leave them sufficiently large to 
 enfold the cutlets. Oil the paper on both sides. 
 Place a cutlet on each paper, spread a little 
 of the sauce upon it, then fold it in the paper, 
 and twist the edges securely, so that the sauce 
 cannot escape. Broil the cutlets thus enclosed 
 in paper over a gentle fire, or, if preferred, 
 place them in a brisk oven till they are heated 
 thoroughly, and the envelopes are lightly 
 browned. Dish them in the papers with fried 
 parsley aa a garnish. Time to fry the cutlets, 
 about a quarter of an hour. To broil them, a 
 quarter of an hour. Probable cost, from Is. to 
 Is. 2d. 
 VEAL CUTLETS (i la Pandora). 
 
 Take five cutlets from the loin, trim them, 
 and make an incision in the thick part, in 
 which insert a little foie gras. They must then 
 be sewn up, and braised on a bed of vegetables 
 with a little stock and a buttered paper over. 
 When done, glaze them, remove the threads, 
 and dish in a row, with croutons the same 
 shape, but smaller, in between. Lay a little 
 pile of foie gras on each crouton, and put any 
 nice vegetable puree round the dish. Probable 
 cost, 2s. 6d. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS {k la Ve'nitienne). 
 
 Cut the best end of a neck of veal into cut- 
 lets, trim these in the usual way, and fiatten 
 them with the cutlet-bat. Mince finely half a 
 pint of mushrooms, and mix with them two 
 shallots, a handful of parsley, a sprig of thyme, 
 and a little pepper. Dissolve a slice of fresh 
 butter in a, saucepan, add a quarter of a pound 
 of fat bacon cut into dice, and the minced 
 herbs, etc. Stew all gently together till the 
 mushrooms are tender; put in the cutlets with 
 ' as much white stock as will barely cover them, 
 and let all simmer very gently till they are done 
 enough. Add a sjoonful of white thickening, 
 and carefully remove the fat as it rises. A few 
 minutes before the veal is to be served add to 
 tho sauce the yolk pf an egg beaten up with a 
 little cream; Mix in a table-spoonful of strained 
 
VEA 
 
 980 
 
 VEA 
 
 lemon-juice and a pinch of cayenne. Place the 
 cutlets on a dish, pour the sauce into the centre, 
 and serve very hot. Send tomatoes, or any 
 cooked vegetables, to table as an accompani- 
 ment. Time, about three-quarters of an hour 
 to stew the cutlets. Probable cost. Is. per 
 pound. 
 VEAL CUTLETS (a la Zingara). 
 
 Take a tolerably thick slice from the fillet of 
 veal. Cut it into round pieces convenient for 
 serving, trim these neatly, and fry them in a 
 stewpau with hot butter or lard till they are 
 lightly browned. Drain off the fat, and pour 
 upon the cutlets as much brown sauce as will 
 cover them. Put into the saucepan with them 
 two ounces of grated ham, an onion stuck with 
 one clove, a large carrot, grated, and a small 
 bunch of sweet herbs. Simmer all gently to- 
 gether over a slow fire till the cutlets are 
 tender. Take them up, and keep them hot. 
 Have already prepared as many slices of lean 
 ham or of cold tongue as there are cutlets ; they 
 should be trimmed to the same shape and size. 
 Fry these in butter for five minutes. Arrange 
 the cutlets in a circle on a hot dish with a slice 
 of ham or tongue between each. Strain the sauce 
 and serve it in the centre of the dish. Time to 
 stew the cutlets, about one hour and a half. 
 Probable cost, veal. Is. to Is. 2d. per pound. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS Ca I'ltalienne). 
 
 Cut a slice of lean veal from the fillet into 
 neat pieces, and beat these with a cutlet-bat. 
 Mince finely a handful of parsley, a sprig of 
 thyme, and a bay-leaf. Fry the herbs in butter, 
 and be careful that they do not acquire any 
 colour. Brush the cutlets with beaten egg, 
 lay the fried herbs upon them, and sprinkle ' 
 finely-grated bread-crumbs upon these. Let 
 them remain untouched for an hour; then re- 
 peat the process. Fry the cutlets in butter over 
 a gentle fire till they are sufficiently cooked 
 and brightly browned. Send to table with them 
 a sauce prepared as follows. Mince a handful 
 of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, and one 
 shallot. Fry these ingredients in a little salad 
 oil over a gentle fire, and stir briskly to keep 
 them from acquiring any colour. Pour upon 
 them half a pint of brown sauce, and add a 
 wine-glassful of mushroom ketchup, a tea-spoon- 
 ful of essence of anchovy, and a few fresh mush- 
 rooms finely minced, if they are to be had. 
 Let the sauce boil; simmer by the side of the 
 fire till it has thrown up the grease, skim it, 
 and it will be ready for use. A glassful of 
 sherry or Madeira will much improve this 
 sauce. It should, of course, be prepared before 
 the cutlets are fried. Time to fry the cutlets, 
 twelve to fifteen minutes. Probable cost. Is. 
 to Is. 2d. per pound. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS AND BACON. 
 
 Trim neatly about two pounds of cutlets, egg 
 and bread-crumb them, adding to the crumbs a 
 little minced parsley and dried herbs, and fry 
 in hot fat slowly for about half an hoiir. Put 
 them on a, hot dish ; make a good rich gravy in 
 the frying-pan, add to it a squeeze of lemon, and 
 pour it over th« cutlets. Fry some rolls of bacon 
 in another pan, and put them round the dish 
 as a garnish, together with some cut lemons. 
 Probable cost. Is. to Is. 2d. per pound. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS AND CELERY. 
 
 Divide the best end of a neck of veal into neat 
 cutlets. Trim these in the usual way, and beat 
 them with a cutlet-bat. Wash four heads of 
 celery, and cut them into neat pieces. Put 
 them into a saucepan, cover with boiling water 
 slightly salted, add a blade of mace, let them 
 boil quickly for ten minutes, then drain them. 
 Lay the celery at the bottom of a saucepan, 
 add the cutlets, and a little salt and pepper, 
 aiid pour over them as much veal stock made 
 from the bones and trimmings of the cutlets as 
 will barely cover them. Let them simmer 
 gently till tender. Take up the cutlets, and 
 mix with the celery — now reduced to pulp — a 
 quarter of a pint of milk or cream and a thick- 
 ening of flour and butter. Stir the sauce over 
 the fire for ten minutes, pour it over the cutlets, 
 and serve immediately. A little stewed onion 
 may be put with the celery if liked, but this is 
 a matter of taste. Garnish the dish with veal, 
 forcemeat balls, and sliced lemon. Time to 
 stew the cutlets, about three quarters of an 
 hour. 
 VEAL CUTLETS AND MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Cut one pound of veal cutlets in pieces about 
 two inches square; sprinkle with minced pars- 
 ley, then dip in beaten eggs and finely chopped 
 mushrooms, and fry slowly for ten minutes. 
 Serve piled up high on a dish, and covered with 
 brown gravy. Garnish with little rolls of bacon. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS AND TOMATOES. 
 
 Cut from the fillet a slice of veal half an inch 
 thick, and weighing about a pound. Cut it 
 into six pieces, and dredge a dessert-spoonful 
 of flour upon them. Dissolve three ounces of 
 butter in a stewpan, put in the cutlets, and let 
 them remain until they are brightly browned 
 on both sides. Then put with them a small slice 
 of lean ham cut into dice, one small onion, four 
 large ripe tomatoes, two anchovies cleaned and 
 pounded to paste, the strained juice of half a 
 large lemon, and a little salt, pepper, cayenne, 
 and grated nutmeg. A wine-glassful of sherry 
 or Madeira will greatly improve the gravy. 
 Cover the saucepan closely, and simmer the 
 ingredients as gently as possible till the veal 
 is quite tender. Remember to remove the scum 
 as it rises, and shake the saucepan frequently 
 in order to keep the contents from burning. 
 Time to simmer the veal, one hour and a quar- 
 ter. Probable cost. Is. to Is. 2d. per pound. 
 Sufficient for three persons. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS, BREAD - CRUMBED AND 
 BROILED. 
 
 Divide the best end of a neck of veal into 
 cutlets. Saw off the chine-bone, shorten the 
 rib-bones, trim the cutlets neatly, and flatten 
 them, ^rinkle a little pepper and salt upon 
 them. Brush them over first with clarified 
 butter or oil, then with beaten egg; dip them 
 in bread-crumbs, once more into oil, and then 
 into the bread-crumbs again. Broil over a clear 
 fire of a moderate heat, and turn them that 
 they may be equally cooked on both sides. 
 When they are brightly browned take them 
 up, arrange them on a dish alternately with 
 rashers of ham or bacon, and send good gravy, 
 or tomato, or any piquant sauce to table with 
 them. Time to broil the outlets, ten to fifteen 
 
VEA 
 
 981 
 
 VEA 
 
 .minutes, according to size. Probable cost. Is. 
 to Is. 2d. per pound. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS, BROILED (k I'ltalienne). 
 
 Take the best part of a neck of veal : cut the 
 libs one by one, flatten them, and pare them 
 nicely, powder over a little salt and pepper, 
 take the yoUc of an egg, and with a paste-brush 
 rub the cutlets with part of the egg, then dip 
 them first in the bread-crumbs, then in melted 
 butter, and afterwards in the crumbs of bread 
 again; give them a good form, and broil them 
 on a slow fire, that they may get a fine brown 
 colour. Serve with a brown Italian sauce, 
 Spanish sauce, or gravy. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS, BROILED, PLAIN. 
 
 Divide the best end of a neck of veal into 
 neat cutlets, allowing one bone to each. Trim 
 these neatly, cut away the chine-bone, shorten 
 the rib-bones, and flatten the cutlets with a 
 cutlet-bat. Sprinkle salt and pepper on both 
 sides, brush them over lightly with oil, and 
 broil on a gridiron over a clear slow fire till they 
 are nicely browned on both sides. Serve on a 
 hot dish, with a few slices of ham or bacon on a 
 separate dish. Good brown gravy, or tomato 
 or any piquant sauce, may be sent to table 
 with veal cutlets. Time to broil the cutlets, 
 ten to fifteen minutes, according to thickness. 
 Probable cost. Is. per pound. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS, CURRIED. 
 
 Cut one pound of veal from the fillet into 
 neat squares convenient for serving, and free 
 from skin, bone, gristle, or fat. Beat these 
 well, and dip them twice into beaten egg and 
 bread-crumbs seasoned with curry-powder. Fry 
 in a little butter over a gentle fire, and turn 
 them so that they may be equally cooked. Put 
 them into a dish, and pour some good curry 
 -sauce round them. Serve very hot. If liked, 
 the cutlets may be broiled instead of being 
 fried, and then they will require only to be 
 brushed over with clarified butter, and to have 
 curry-powder sprinkled upon them instead of 
 being dipped into the beaten egg and seasoned 
 bread-crumbs. The curry sauce may be pre- 
 pared as follows. Slice two large onions, and 
 steam them in butter in a closely-covered sauce- 
 pan till they are soft without being at all 
 coloured. Add a sour apj)le pared, cored, and 
 minced, and replace the saucepan upon the 
 'Sre till the apple is tender. Eub the ingredients 
 through a sieve, and mix the pulp with a des- 
 sert-spoonful of ground rice, a dessert-spoonful 
 of curry-paste, and half a pint of stock. Sim- 
 mer the sauce for twenty minutes, and it will 
 be ready for serving. If this sauce is too pun- 
 gent, a spoonful of curry-paste may be stirred 
 into half a pint of plain gravy made in the pan 
 in which the cutlets were fried. Time to fry 
 the cutlets, twelve to fourteen minutes. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS, FARCE OF. 
 
 Take some cutlets of an even thickness from 
 the best end of a neck of veal, trim them in 
 the usual way, flatten them, and spread over 
 each one a covering of good veal forcemeat. 
 Roll the meat round the bone, put a thin slice 
 of fat bacon over each cutlet, and bind it with 
 twine to prevent the forcemeat escaping. But- 
 ter a stewpan, and place a bed of sliced vege- 
 
 tables — carrot, turnip, onions, and celery — in 
 the bottom. Lay the stuffed cutlets on these, 
 and pour upon them as much stock as will half 
 cover them. Let them simmer as gently as 
 possible till quite tender. Take them up, place 
 them in a circle on a dish, strain the gravy over, 
 and serve very hot. Time to simmer the cutlets, 
 about two hours. 
 VEAL CUTLETS, FRIED. 
 
 Take the cutlets from the best end of the 
 neck, and let them be about half an inch thick. 
 Trim them neatly, flatten with a cleaver, and 
 flour' well. Pry them in butter or good drip- 
 ping until they are cooked .through. When 
 brown on one side turn them upon the other. 
 Pour away the fat, and dissolve a slice of fresh 
 butter in the pan, stir a dessert-spoonful of 
 flour into this, and when it is quite smooth and 
 brown add very gradually a cupful of boiling 
 gravy which has been made by stewing the 
 trimmings of the veal very gently for an hour 
 or more with a little water, a small roll of 
 lemon-rind, an onion, half a blade of mace, a 
 sprig of parsley and thyme, and a little pepper 
 and salt. This sauce may, if liked, be flavoured 
 with a little lemon-juice or walnut pickle, or 
 with a few mushrooms. Some people would 
 scarcely care for veal cutlets unless they were 
 accompanied by mushroom sauce. Serve the 
 cutlets on a hot dish with the sauce poured over. 
 A few fried forcemeat balls and some fried 
 rashers of bacon should be served with them. 
 The veal may be taken from the fillet instead, 
 of the neck, and then the meat should be cut 
 into neat round pieces convenient for serving. 
 Time to fry cutlets, about fifteen minutes. 
 Probable cost, from Is. to Is. 4d. per pound. 
 VEAL CUTLETS, FRIED (another way). 
 
 Cut a slice of lean veal about the third of an 
 inch thick from the fillet. Divide this into neat 
 cutlets convenient for serving. Prepare some 
 finely-grated bread-crumbs, season with pepper, 
 salt, and pounded mace, and add a table-spoon- 
 ful of parsley which has been scalded and finely 
 minced. Fry the cutlets in butter or dripping 
 till they are cooked through and nicely 
 browned, then serve as in the last recipe. Time 
 to fry the cutlets, ten to fifteen minutes. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS, FRIED {k la Maintenon). 
 
 Cut 'three or four cutlets from the best end 
 of a neck of veal. Trim them neatly in the 
 usual manner, and fry them in melted butter 
 until they are lightly browned on both sides. 
 Allow them to cool, then cover each one 
 smoothly with good sauce, wrap it in oiled 
 paper, and fold the edges together lightly but 
 securely, that the gravy may not escape. Put 
 the cutlets on an oiled tin into a brisk oven, 
 and allow them to remain until the envelopes 
 are nicely browned ; serve very hot. The sauce 
 may be made in the following manner. Fry 
 gently in one ounce of butter, one ounce of lean 
 ham ; add one ounce and a half of flour and half 
 a pint of stock, then stir the sauce till it boils. 
 Put in four button mushrooms. Skim away 
 the fat, and when the mixture is very thick and 
 smooth stir in, off the fire, four egg yolks. When 
 cool the sauce is ready for use. Time to simmer 
 the cutlets in the fat, one hour. Probable cost. 
 Is. to Is. 2d. per pound. 
 
VEA 
 
 982 
 
 VEA 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS, GRAVY FOR. 
 
 Put the bones and trimmings of the veal into 
 a saucepan, barely cover them with cold water, 
 and add (for a pint of water) a bunch of pars- 
 ley, a sprig of thyme or marjoram, a small roll 
 of thin lemon-rind, half n. blade of mace, and 
 a little pepper. A little bacon4rind may be 
 added if it is at hand. Cover the saucepan 
 closely, and simmer the stock gently till it is 
 strong and nicely flavoured. Strain it, thicken 
 with brown thickening, and let it simmer by 
 the side of the fire till it has thrown up the 
 grease. If the cutlets have been fried, lift 
 them from the pan, and pour away the fat, leav- 
 ing the brown gravy at the bottom. Pour the 
 thickened sauce upon this gravy, stir well, boil 
 it a few minutes, add a little salt if required, 
 and then strain it over the meat. A few spoon- 
 fuls of cream may be added to the gravy if 
 liked. Time, one hour to simmer the trimmings 
 of veal. 
 VEAL CUTLETS IN ASPIC. 
 
 Take some cutlets about three-quarters of an 
 inch thick, put them in a saucepan with a pint 
 of veal stock. Let them simmer very gently for 
 an hour and a quarter, drain them, and let them 
 cool. Have ready on ice some moulds suf- 
 ficiently wide to hold a cutlet. Put a tea-spoon- 
 ful of liquid aspic in each, just sufiicient to run 
 all over the bottom of the mould ; put a very 
 tiny sprig of parsley in the centre, and form a 
 star with five or six tiny pieces of white of egg, 
 about the thickness of a match. Put in another 
 spoonful of aspic very carefully, so as not to 
 disturb the decorations. When this is set, lay 
 a cutlet in each mould, and fill it up with 
 aspic. Leave them on ice till set. When 
 wanted for table, dip each for a moment into 
 boiling water and reverse the mould on to a 
 plate. Serve garnished with fresh parsley. 
 Probable cost, cutlets. Is. to Is. 2d. per pound. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS, LARDED. 
 
 Take some cutlets of an equal thickness from 
 the best end of a neck of veal. Trim these 
 neatly, flatten them with a cutlet-bat, and lard 
 the lean part with thin strips of fat bapon, 
 with which, for a superlative dish, strips of red 
 tongue and black truffle may be intermixed. 
 Put the cutlets into a saucepan, and barely 
 cover them with nicely flavoured stock to which 
 a glassful of light wine has been added. Cover 
 the saucepan closely, and let the cutlets simmer 
 gently until they are quite tender. Diain the 
 
 fravy from them, and press them between two 
 ishes with a weight upon them till the veal is 
 cold. Strain the gravy, free it from fat, and 
 boil quickly till it is considerably reduced. 
 When the cutlets are to be served, heat them 
 in the oven, dish 'them in a circle, pour the 
 gravy over them, and place French beans, or 
 mushrooms, turnip, sorrel, or endive puree in 
 the centre. Time to stew the cutlets, according 
 to thickness. Probable cost. Is. to Is. 2d. per 
 pound. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS, LARDED AND SERVED COLD, 
 SUPERLATIVE. 
 Take six or eight thick veal cutlets, and pre- 
 pare them as in the last recipe. Put them be- 
 tween two dishes, and press them till cold ; then 
 trim them neatly, and brush them over twice 
 
 with liquid glaze. Serve on a dish, and garnish 
 with aspic jelly and Montpellier butter. They 
 will have a good appearance arranged as fol- 
 lows. Boil some rice in water till it is tender 
 and quite dry, then pound it, and press it into a 
 flat round mould. When it is cold and stiff 
 turn it out, place it in the centre of a dish, 
 cover with Montpellier butter, arrange the cut- 
 lets round it with the bones inward, and put a 
 little chopped aspic jelly between each one. 
 Ornament the top of the rice with Montpellier 
 butter and aspic jelly, fill the bottom of the 
 dish with chopped aspic, and serve. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS, MADE FROM COLD COOKED 
 VEAL. 
 
 Take a pound and a half of cold veal free 
 from skin or gristle, and half a pound of lean 
 ham or tongue. Mince the meat finely, pound 
 it in a mortar, season with salt, cayenne, and 
 grated nutmeg, and add a tea^spoonful of mus- 
 tard, a tea-spoonful of anchovy, two table- 
 spoonfuls of strong veal gravy, the grated rind 
 and juice of a small lemon, and a quarter of a 
 pound of clarified butter. Half a cupful of rice 
 boiled in milk till soft, and pounded, may be 
 added if liked, and a little yolk of egg may be 
 used to bind the mixture together. Form the 
 paste into cutlets ; dip these into clarified 
 butter, dredge flour upon them, and egg and 
 bread-crumb them twice. Pry them in hot fat, 
 or bake them in a brisk oven, basting them two 
 or three times whilst they are there. Send 
 tartar sauce or any other piquant sauce to table 
 with them. A little good stock thickened with 
 brown thickening, and flavoured with lemon- 
 juice or lemon pickle, will answer the purpose 
 when the ingredients for tartar sauce cannot 
 be procured. Time to fry the cutlets, eight to 
 ten minutes; to bake them, about a quarter of 
 an hour. 
 VEAL CUTLETS, ROASTED (k la Maintenon). 
 
 Take a cutlet of veal from the fillet. Cut it 
 into neat pieces, and flatten these with a cutlet- 
 bat. Spread upon them a little good veal force- 
 meat, cover with thin slices of fat bacon, and 
 put them on a skewer. Cover them evenly with 
 oiled paper, and roast before a clear -fire. Send 
 piquant sauce to table with them. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS, RUSSIAN MODE OF COOKING. 
 
 Make a little Russian sauce in a quantity 
 sufficient to coat the cutlets, upon one side only, 
 to the thicfaiess of half an inch. This sauce 
 may be made in the following proportions. 
 Dissolve an ounce of butter in a small" sauce- 
 pan, and put with it a stick of horse-radish, 
 grated, a finely-minced shallot, a pinch of pow- 
 dered herbs, a spoonful of grated ham, a table- 
 spoonful of vinegar, a table-spoonful of sherry, 
 a small lump of sugar, and a little pepper and 
 salt. Cover the saucepan closely, and let its 
 contents simmer gently over a slow fire till the 
 flavour of the ingredients is extracted. Add a 
 quarter of a pint of rich white sauce, and 
 the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Stir the 
 sauce over a gentle fire till it begins to thicken, 
 then strain it off for use. Trim the cutlets, 
 flatten them with a cutlet-bat, and fry on both 
 sides to a light brown. They will require about 
 twelve minutes. Let them get cold, then spread 
 a coating of the Russian sauce upon one side 
 
VEA 
 
 983- 
 
 VEA 
 
 of each. Brush them over with egg, and 
 sjjrinkle upon them fried bread-crumbs mixed 
 with grated Parmesan. Place them side by side 
 in a single layer in a buttered baking-dish, and 
 '*& few minutes before they are to be served heat 
 them in a brisk oven. Dish them in a circle on 
 a hot dish, pour a little tomato sauce into the 
 centre, and serve very hot. Any kind of cooked 
 vegetable may be served as an accompaniment. 
 Time to heat the cutlets, about ten minutes. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS, STEWED. 
 
 Cut a piece of the fillet into three parts, and 
 trim from them all the skin. Stew all the trim- 
 mings with carrot and onions to make a light 
 gravy, then add a little broth or warm water; 
 add spice if approved, put in the pieces of veal, 
 and stew them for two hours. Dish the cutlets, 
 thicken the gravy, and pour it over them. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS, WITH MaItRE D'HOTEL 
 BUTTER. 
 
 For one pound of cutlets prepare maatre 
 d'hotel butter as follows. Wash and pick a 
 bunch of parsley, chop small, wrap it in the 
 corner of a cloth, dip it in cold spring water, 
 and wring the moisture from it. Put it into a 
 basin with its bulk in fresh butter, a few drops 
 of strained lemon-juice, and a little pepper and 
 salt. Work it with the point of a knife till the 
 butter is like cream, and be very careful to keep 
 the butter in a cool place, for if melted it will 
 be oily. Trim and broil some veal cutlets in 
 the usual way (see Veal Cutlets, Broiled, 
 Plain). Put the butter on a dish, place the 
 cutlets upon it, and serve very hot. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS, WITH MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Take a slice or more of veal for cutlets from 
 the fillet, and for every pound of veal allow a 
 handful of mushrooms. Cleanse and trim them, 
 and put them into a saucepan with a table- 
 spoonful of lemon-juice, a table-spoonful of 
 water, and a pinch of salt for one pound of 
 mushrooms. Shake them in the liquor for a 
 few minutes, then add a slice of fresh butter, 
 put them on a clear fire, and let them remain 
 for five minutes, shaking the saucepan occa- 
 sionally. Turn them into a dish, cover closely, 
 and leave them till wanted. Divide the veal 
 into neat cutlets of a round or heart shape. 
 Sprinkle a little pepper and salt upon them, 
 and either dredge them with flour or egg and 
 bread-crumb them, and fry them in butter or 
 fat till they are equally and brightly browned. 
 Put them on a plate, and keep them hot. Drain 
 off half the fat in the pan, and mix a table- 
 spoonful of flour smoothly with the remainder. 
 Moisten gradually with a small tea-cupful of 
 boiling stock or water, add the prepared mush- 
 rooms and a table-spoonful of ketchup. Let the 
 sauce boil gently for three or four minutes. 
 Put the fried cutlets on a dish alternately with 
 slices of fried bacon or ham; place the mush- 
 rooms round, pour the sauce over all, and serve. 
 Time to fry the cutlets, twelve to fifteen 
 minutes. 
 VEAL CUTLETS WITHOUT BONE. 
 
 Properly speaking, these cutlets ought to be 
 made from the fleshy part of the neck, which 
 has been taken out whole so as to form a 
 sausage-shaped roll,- and then cut into slices the 
 
 third of an inch thick. Those who object to thii 
 may use a cutlet taken from the fillet instead. 
 Divide the meat into neat slices. Brush them 
 over with egg, sprinkle finely-grated and 
 savoury bread-crumbs upon them, or, if pre- 
 ferred, omit the egg and bread-crumbs, and 
 simply dredge flour upon them, and fry them 
 in butter or lard till they are lightly browned 
 on both sides. Toast separately as many slices 
 of bacon as there are cutlets. Arrange the 
 cutlets and the bacon alternately in a circle 
 round a hot dish, and pour into the centre a 
 sauce prepared as follows. Put a quarter of a 
 pint of brown sauce into a saucepan. Let it 
 boil, then stir into it a table-spoonful of 
 ketchup, a glassful of sherry or Madeira, the 
 strained juice of half a lemon, and a pinch of 
 grated nutmeg. Stir the sauce over the fire 
 for a minute, and it will be ready for serving. 
 When brown thickening is not at hand, a little 
 may be made by kneading together equal pro- 
 portions of butter and flour, then stirring the 
 paste quickly over a slow fire for three minutes, 
 and moistening it with stock. If preferred, 
 good brown mushroom sauce may be used in- 
 stead. Time to fry the cutlets, about a quarter 
 of an hour. Probable cost. Is. to Is. 2d. per 
 pound. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS, WITH SORREL. 
 
 Take some cutlets of an even thickness from 
 the best end of a neck of veal, trim them in the 
 usual way, and fry in a little butter till they 
 are lightly browned on both sides. Drain them, 
 put them into a stewpan, pour over as much 
 nicely-flavoured veal gravy as will cover them, 
 and let them simmer gently till done enough. 
 A glassful of light wine may be added if liked. 
 Dish the cutlets in a circle, put some sorrel 
 puree into the centre of the dish, and serve 
 them, with the gravy in which they were stewed, 
 in a tureen. The puree may be prepared 'as 
 follows. Wash a peck of fresh green sorrel in 
 plenty of water, and put it into a stewpan with 
 a pint of water and a pinch of salt. Stir it over 
 the fire for a quarter of an hour or until ten- 
 der, then drain the water from it. Dissolve 
 two ounces of butter in a stewpan, and mix two 
 ounces of flour smoothly with it. Stir it over 
 the fire for three minutes. Moisten with a pint 
 of gravy, add the sorrel and a little pepper and 
 salt, and stir the mixture over the fire for 
 twenty minftes. Rub it through a hair sieve, 
 make the puree hot, and it will be ready for 
 use. 
 VEAL, FILLET OF. 
 
 The fillet is one of the prime joints of veal. 
 It is taken from the leg above the knuckle. 
 The French divide it into three parts — the fat 
 fleshy piece inside the thigh to which the udder 
 is attached in a oow-oalf, and of which frican- 
 deau is made; the under noix, used for force- 
 meat, pies, etc., and the centre noix, for sauce, 
 etc. As veal becomes tainted very quickly, the 
 udder should be examined and wiped dry every 
 day, and the kernel should be removed from 
 the fat. The most usual mode of cooking a 
 fillet of veal is to stuff and roast it, though it 
 can be either boiled or braised as preferred. 
 Probable cost. Is. Id. per pound. Sufficient for 
 six persons. 
 
VEA 
 
 984 
 
 VEA 
 
 VEAL, FILLET OF (au Bechamel, second cooking). 
 The remains of a cooked fillet of veal may 
 be served in this way. Cut a portion of meat 
 from the centre of the veal, leaving a goodly 
 portion untouched from which slices may be cut. 
 Trim the joint, fill up any cracks or cuts there 
 may be in it with forcemeat, . and bind it 
 securely. Put it into the oven for an hour or 
 more till it is heated throughout, and be careful 
 to baste liberally for fear it should be dry. 
 Meanwhile mince finely the veal that was taken 
 from the fillet, mix a little forcemeat with it, 
 and stir into it as much good white saiice as 
 will moisten it well. Put this mince into the 
 hollow in the fillet, cover with finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs, and drop a little clarified butter 
 upon the crumbs. Place the meat again in the 
 oven till the crumbs are brightly browned, and 
 serve the veal on a hot dish, with bechamel or 
 good white sauce round it. Time, one hour and 
 a half. 
 
 VEAL, FILLET OF, BOILED. 
 
 Take a small and white fillet of veal for this 
 purpose. Bemove the bone, fill its space with 
 good veal forcemeat, and bind the meat securely 
 with tape. Put a few skewers at the bottom 
 of the stewpan to keep the veal from sticking; 
 lay it on these, and pour over it as much cold 
 weak stock, milk and water, or even water only, 
 as will barely cover it. Let it heat slowly and 
 simmer very gently indeed until it is done 
 enough. The more gently it is simmered the 
 better it will be. Carefully remove the scum 
 as it rises. When done enough, take the fillet 
 up, put it on a hot dish, garnish with lemon, 
 and send oyster, celery, or white sauce to table 
 with it ; or a sauce made by thickening; a little 
 of the stock in which it was boiled with white 
 thickening, seasoning with salt, pepper, and 
 mace, and flavouring with lemon-juice and 
 sherry. A boiled tongue should accompany 
 this dish, which if served alone is in danger of 
 being considered insipid. Time to simmer a 
 fillet of veal weighing six pounds, three hours. 
 Probable cost. Is. Id. per pound. Sufficient for 
 six persons. 
 
 VEAL, FILLET OF, BOILED (another way). 
 
 Remove the bone, and fill the centre with 
 stuffing similar to that used for boiled turkey. 
 Allow twenty minutes to the pound, and twenty 
 minutes over, for the boiling of this joint. 
 After the water boils, skim careS^lly, and let 
 it only simmer, keeping the meat covered by 
 adding hot water, or it will become brown. 
 The beauty of this dish depends on delicacy in 
 the colour of the meat. A sauce must be formed 
 by taking out a pint of the broth which has 
 been produced by boiling the veal ; this must be 
 thickened with good cream, butter, and flour, 
 and flavoured with mushroom, ketchup, and 
 mushroom-powder or button mushrooms. If 
 cream be not at hand for thickening the broth, a 
 sauce may be made by mingling the yolks of 
 two eggs with flour, butter, and broth. 
 
 VEAL, FILLET OF, BRAISED. 
 
 Cover the bottom of a braising-pan, or stew- 
 pan, with sliced bacon, a carrot, turnip, and 
 onion, all sliced, add a few celery-stalks, and 
 a gill of stock made from veal bones. Take a 
 fillet of veal and lay it on the bed of vege- 
 
 tables and bacon; put more bacon on top; add 
 a few peppercorns and a clove or two, and put 
 on the lid. Simmer to reduce the gravy, then 
 add more stock to half the depth of the meat, 
 and cook gentjy for about three hours for a 
 fillet weighing five or six pounds. When done, 
 drain the meat, and put it on a hot dish. 
 Strain the gravy, thicken it with brown roux 
 to a creamy consistency, season to taste, and 
 add a glass of light wine. Pour the gravy round 
 the meat, and send to table very hot. 
 
 VEAL, FILLET OF (French way). 
 
 Trim, stuff, and truss a fillet of veal as 
 directed for Veal, Fillbt or, Eoasted. If 
 liked, the surface and the sides of the fillet 
 may be larded with strips of fat bacon. Cover 
 the bottom of a stewpan with sliced vegetables 
 and with thin slices of bacon or ham. Lay the 
 veal on these, moisten with a pint of stock, or 
 water, lay slices of bacon upon it, cover closely, 
 and if possible put live embers on the lid of the 
 pan, and let the fillet braise very gently over a 
 slow fire till tender. Baste frequently with the 
 gravy. Take it up, drain it, and put it in the 
 oven. Strain the sauce, and boil quickly for 
 a few minutes; then baste the meat with it 
 till it looks bright and glossy. Serve on a hot 
 dish, and send any kind of cooked vegetable 
 to table with it, together with brown ItaliSn 
 or tomato sauce as an accompaniment. If 
 liked, the gravy in which it was stewed may 
 be simply strained and thickened with brown 
 thickening, then flavoured with pepper, lemon- 
 juice, and light wine ; and to enrich it oysters 
 or stewed mushrooms may be added. Time to 
 stew the veal, at least half an hour to each 
 pound. Probable cost, veal. Is. Id. per pound. 
 VEAL, FILLET OF, ROASTED. 
 
 Have the fillet cut to the size required. Re- 
 move the bone, and fill the cavity with good 
 veal forcemeat (see Veai, Poecemeat). Cut the 
 flap slightly, and lay forcemeat under it. Draw 
 the flap round, skewer the veal, bind it firmly 
 into a round shape, skewer the skin which has 
 been sent with the veal over the forcemeat and 
 the fat, flour the fillet, and put it down at some 
 distance from the fire, then move it gradually 
 nearer till done enough, and baste frequently. 
 Let the outside be well browned, though it 
 must not be burnt. Remove the skin, skewers, 
 and tape, and put the veal on a hot dish. Pour 
 melted butter coloured with browning or some 
 good veal gravy (see Veal, Gbavt foe) round 
 it, and garnish with sliced lemon. A pig's 
 cheek, a boiled tongue, or small pieces of bacon 
 or ham should be served with roast veal. It is 
 always well to prepare plenty of stuffing, so 
 that it may be used to flavour a mince if the 
 remains of the veal are served in that form. 
 As it is a little difficult to keep the stuffing in 
 the veal when it is roasted before the fire, many 
 cooks prefer to bake it in a moderate oven. 
 When this plan is adopted the veal must be 
 basted frequently. The joint should be roasted 
 slowly, or the outside will be burnt before tie 
 meat is done through, and underdone veal is 
 most unwholesome. Time to roast, twenty- 
 eight minutes to the pound; half an hour to' 
 the pound in frosty weather. Probable cost, 
 Is. Id. per pound. 
 
VEA 
 
 985 
 
 VEA 
 
 VEAL, FILLET OF, ROASTED (another way). 
 
 The fillet of Teal is most commonly roastfid, 
 being previously stuffed either in the flap or 
 in the space in the centre, from which the bone 
 was taken. Veal, being a dry meat, requires 
 constant basting either with butter, beef drip- 
 ping, or suet. It must be roasted thoroughly 
 (underdone veal being neither wholesome nor 
 agreeable), and of a nice brown. When dished, 
 half a pint of melted butter, sometimes mixed 
 with a brown gravy, is poured over it. Curry 
 sauce in a tureen may also be served with it. 
 Bacon, or fried pork-sausage balls, with greens, 
 are among the accompaniments of roasted veal. 
 
 VEAL, FILLET OF, WITH OYSTERS OR 
 MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Eemove the bone from a fillet of veal, and, 
 without stuffing it, bind it very tightly with 
 tape, so that there may be no hollow left in the 
 centre. Eoast in the usual way. "Whilst it is 
 before the fire, take about two dozen oysters, 
 and scald them in their liquor. Beard them, 
 and simmer the beards in about half a pint of 
 good veal stock. Strain the sauce, add to it 
 the oyster liquor and an equal quantity of cream 
 or milk, and boil with a small piece of white 
 thickening, together with a few drops of an- 
 chovy and a little cayenne, nutmeg, and lemon- 
 juice. Take up the veal, quickly cut out about 
 a pound from the centre, and keep the meat hot 
 in the oven. Mince finely with the oysters the 
 slice which has been cut out, put this into 
 the sauce, and pour the whole into the cavity 
 in the veal. Serve very hot. If liked, mush- 
 rooms stewed in butter may be substituted for 
 the oysters. 
 
 VEAL FORCEMEAT. 
 
 No. 1. Shred finely half a pound of suet, 
 free from skin and fibre. Mix with it half a 
 pound of bread-crumbs cribbled through a 
 colander, the rind of half a small lemon, grated, 
 one tea-spoonful of salt, half, a tea-spoonful of 
 white pepper, a table-spoonful of chopped pars- 
 ley, a tea-spoonful of thyme, a tea-spoonful 
 of marjoram, two small blades of mace pounded. 
 Bind the mixture together with yolk of egg, the 
 bulk of which may be increased with milk when 
 economy is^a consideration. No. 2. Chop finely 
 a quarter of a pound of beef suet with two 
 ounces of lean raw ham and five ounces of 
 bread-crumbs rubbed through a, colander. Add 
 a piece of thin lemon-rind about the size of a 
 thumb-nail, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, 
 a tea-spoonful of mixed sweet herbs if fresh — 
 if very dry, two tea-spoonfuls — and half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and a little cayenne or white 
 pepper. Bind the mixture together with two 
 whole eggs. No. 3. Take half a pound of veal, 
 and a quarter of a pound of fat bacon. Cut 
 these into strips, and scrape them with the 
 back of a knife, then pound them well in a 
 mortar, and pass the preparation through a 
 sieve. Mix with it the crumb of half a roll, 
 a salt-spoonful of powdered mace, the same 
 quantity of grated nutmeg, a dessert-spoonful 
 of chopped onions, parsley, and mushrooms, 
 with a little pepper and salt. Mix these in- 
 gredients thoroughly, continually pounding 
 them in the mortar, bind them together with 
 two well-beaten eggs, and poach a small quan- 
 
 tity in "boiling water to test it. When the pre- 
 paration is .firm, light, and delicately flavoured 
 it will be ready for use. This forcemeat may be 
 used on all occasions, for pies, balls, etc. When 
 forcemeat is to be served in the form of balls, 
 mould it to the size and shape of large marbles, 
 put these into hot fat over the fire, and turn 
 them about for a few minutes till they are lightly 
 browned. Place them on a sheet of blotting 
 paper before the fire to drain off the fat. When 
 dry they are ready for serving. 
 
 ' VEAL FORCEMEAT, RICH. 
 
 Mince six ounces each of raw veal and ham, 
 chop three ounces of veal suet, and add a 
 little suet, pepper, cayenne, and mace; then 
 mix in about an equal bulk of bread panada, 
 for which veal stock should be used. Pound 
 the mixture and add a raw egg by degrees. 
 This forcemeat can be used for turkeys and 
 fowls; it is a change from ordinary sausage 
 meat, and if the suet is objected to, it can 
 be left out, and then will be rich enough for 
 most. 
 
 VEAL FORCEMEAT, ROLL OF. 
 
 Take a pound of lean veal from the fillet, 
 three ounces of fat bacon, and two ounces of 
 lean hajn. Cut the meat in long slices, scrape " 
 them with a knife, and pound them in a mortar. 
 Mix with the paste one ounce of finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs, a dessert-spoonful of baked flour, 
 the grated rind of half a small lemon, half a 
 shallot finely minced, a pinch of grated nutmeg, 
 and a little pepper. Add the yolks of three and 
 the whites of two eggs beaten up with two 
 table-spoonfuls of thick cream. Mould the 
 mixture to the shape of a roll. Brush over with 
 the white of egg which was left untouched, 
 dredge baked flour upon it, roll it in well-oiled 
 paper, tie in a cloth, and at«am over fast-boil- 
 ing water till done enough. Turn the roll upon 
 a hot dish, pour a little nicely-flavoured brown 
 sauce over, and serve very hot. Time to steam 
 the roll, two hours. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 VEAL, FRICANDEAU OF. 
 
 For this dish — a segment of veal, larded and 
 stewed, with bacon, sliced vegetables, sweet 
 herbs, and seasoning — we are indebted to the 
 age of Leo X. Its inventor was Jean de Careme 
 (John of Kent), who received the nickname in 
 consequence of a celebrated soup maiijre which 
 he made for the Pope, his master. He was the 
 direct ancestor of the famous Careme, who was 
 cook first to George IT., and afterwards to 
 Baron Rothschild. Leo X., luxurious and mag- 
 nificent in his tastes, was far from narrow- 
 minded in his patronage of merit. He fostered 
 the genius of Raphael, the painter, and encour- 
 aged also the genius which could discover a 
 fricandeau. The following recipe will be found 
 excellent. Take about three pounds of the fat, 
 fleshy sidiC of a fillet of veal of the best .quality, 
 or a slice about four inches thick. With one . 
 stroke of the knife cut it even, trim, it into an 
 oblong or oval shape, then lard thickly and 
 evenly with thin strips of fat bacon. Slice two 
 carrots, two turnips, and two onions, and put 
 these into the centre of a stewpan with two 
 or three slices of bacon, the trimmings of the 
 
VEA 
 
 986 
 
 VEA 
 
 meat, a bunch of sweet herbs, two bay-leaves, 
 and a little salt and white pepper. Put the 
 frieandeau on the vegetables, and pour in about 
 a pint of stock, or as much as will cover the 
 bacon without touching the veal. Cover the 
 Baiicepan closely, and let its contents come 
 slowly to the boil, tlien stew very gently by 
 the side of the fire till the meat is quite tender. 
 Baste frequently with its liquor. A short time 
 before it is to be served take it up and put it 
 into a well-heated oven to crisp the bacon. 
 Strain the gravy, skim the fat from it, boil 
 quickly to glaze, and baste the frieandeau with 
 it till it looks bright and glossy. Serve with 
 the larded surface uppermost, in the centre of a 
 puree of any vegetables that are in season — 
 sorrel, spinach, endive, asparagus, peas, etc. 
 If liked, the gravy may be simply strained, 
 skimmed, and poured over the meat, and then 
 the dish is frieandeau with gravy. Sometimes 
 as a matter of economy the lean part of the best 
 end of a large neck of veal is used instead of the 
 prime part of the leg, and does nearly as well. 
 Truffles, mushrooms, and artichoke bottoms 
 may all be served with this dish. Time to stew 
 the frieandeau, about two hours and a half. 
 Probable cost, veal. Is. Id, per pound. 
 
 VEAL, FRICANOELLES OF. 
 
 Take a pound of lean veal from the fillet, 
 and mince it finely with half its weight in suet 
 freed from skin and fibre. Soak four rusks in 
 milk, then press the moisture thoroughly from 
 them, and mix them with the minced meat. 
 Season and flavour the preparation with pepper, 
 salt, grated nutmeg, and finely-minced lemou- 
 riud. A little onion or shallot may be added, if 
 liked. Bind together with the yolks of four 
 eggs and the whites of two. Divide it into 
 three portions, and form these into balls. Drop 
 them into fast-boiling water, and let them 
 remain for four minutes. Take them up, drain 
 them, dip them into egg and bread-crumbs, 
 and fry in hot fat till they are nicely browned. 
 Make some gravy with the bones and trim- 
 mings of the veal. Flavour this nicely, and 
 thicken with brown thickening. Stew the balls 
 in this gravy a short time before they are to 
 be served, put them on » hot dish, pour the 
 gravy over, and garnish, with slices of lemon. 
 Time to stew the fricandelles, half an hour. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for three or 
 four persons. 
 
 VEAL, FRICANDELLES OF (another way). 
 
 Prepare the fricandelle mixture as in the 
 last recipe. Put it into a buttered dish which 
 it will half fill, and bake for an hour in a 
 moderate oven. When the surface is lightly 
 browned, pour over it a little gravy, stock, or 
 milk, and let it bake twenty minutes longer. 
 Pour off the gravy which swims on the top, mix 
 with it the well-beaten yolks of two egge, again 
 pour it upon the mince, place it in the oven for 
 a few minutes, and serve. 
 
 VEAL, FRICASSEE OF 
 
 Take two pounds, or more if required, of lean 
 veal free from skin and bone. Cut this into 
 small thick pieces convenient for serving, and 
 fry them in hot butter until the flesh is firm 
 without having acquired any colour. Dredge a 
 table-spoonful of flour upon them, add a small 
 
 strip of thin lemon-rind, and gradually as much 
 boiling white stock as will cover the meat. Let 
 it simmer very gently till tender. Take out the 
 lemon-rind, flavour the gravy with salt, 
 cayenne, and pounded mace, and mix with it a 
 quarter of a pint of boiling cream. Beat the 
 yolks of two eggs in a bowl, add gradually a 
 little of the sauce (first allowing it to cool for 
 a minute or two), then this thickening carefully 
 to the remainder of the sauce. Let the pan re- 
 main near the fire for three or four minutes, 
 add the strained juice of half a lemon, and 
 serve immediately. A few fried rashers of 
 bacon should be served with this dish. A pint 
 of stewed mushrooms may be served with it of 
 not. The remains of cooked veal may be served 
 in this way. Time, about half an hour to sim- 
 mer the veal. Probable cost, veal. Is. Id. per 
 pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 VEAL, FRICASSEE OF (a German recipe). 
 
 This is a dish for spring-time. Cut up a 
 breast of veal, stew it till tender in water 
 flavoured with a little salt, bay-leaves, and a 
 bunch of mixed herbs. Boil a dozen crayfish, 
 pick out the meat, and set it aside; stew the 
 shells, when pounded, in two ounces of butter, 
 and strain them. Make the crayfish, with the 
 exception of the tails, into balls with an equal 
 quantity of bread-crumbs, two eggs, half the 
 crayfish butter, and a little spice. Next boil 
 some asparagus or cauliflower till tender. Make 
 a sauce of two ounces of butter beaten to cream ; 
 to which add the yolks of two or three eggs 
 beaten up, two spoonfuls of flour, the rest of 
 the crayfish butter, and as much of the liquor 
 in which the vegetables were boiled, or broth, 
 as will make it a thin sauce. Now put the meat, 
 the vegetables, and tails into the sauce, to- 
 gether with the balls ; let all simmer for ten 
 minutes ; then take out the meat, boil the sauce 
 a few minutes longer, and pour it over. Be 
 careful to arrange the vegetables, fish, and balls 
 with taste. 
 
 VEAL, FRICASSEE OF (another way.) 
 
 Cut two pounds of veal into neat pieces free 
 from skin, bone, or fat. Melt a slice of butter 
 in a saut«-pan, put in the veal, and cook it 
 very gently for five minutes, being specially 
 careful that it does not acquire any colour. 
 Pour on as much stock, or milk and stock, as 
 will cover the veal, and simmer gently for about 
 twenty minutes, or until quite tender. Flavour 
 with mace, salt, and white pepper, and add 
 half an inch of lemon-rind, if liked. Thicken 
 the sauce with cornflour, and add a quarter 
 of a pint of good cream, then take the sauce ofE 
 the fire, and let it cool. Beat the yolks of two 
 eggs. Mix a little of the sauce with them, add 
 them gradually to the rest, and shake the pan 
 over the fire for a minute or two. Serve the 
 preparation on a hot dish, and garnish with 
 slices of lemon. Time, three-quarters of an 
 hour. 
 
 VEAL, GALANTINE OF. 
 
 {See Veal, Collabed, ok Galantine op 
 Veal.) 
 veal, gateau of. 
 
 No. 1. Take the remains of a roast fillet of 
 veal and of the ham that has been served with it, 
 and cut them into neat thin slices. Line an 
 
VEA 
 
 98t 
 
 VEA 
 
 earthenware mould with thin slices of fat bacon, 
 and fill it with layers of ham and veal, inter- 
 mixed with slices of hard-boiled yolk of eggs. 
 Sprinkle over each layer a seasoning of salt, 
 white pepper, and finely-shredded parsley, with a 
 few truffles cut up small, if they can be had 
 conveniently. Pour clarified butter over all, 
 then tie three or four folds of paper tightly 
 over the top of the mould. Bake in a moderate 
 oven, and turn it -out in a shape when cold. 
 Time to bake, one hour. No. 2. Mince finely 
 two pounds of calf's liver with six ounces of fat 
 bacon and a small onion. Dissolve a slice of 
 butter in a stewpan, put in the onion and bacon, 
 and, when the latter begins to soften, put in 
 the liver, with a seasoning of pepper, salt, and 
 grated nutmeg. Stir the mixture over the fire 
 till the liver loses its red appearance, turn it 
 out to cool, and beat it to a paste. Add four 
 well-beaten eggs, with a few stewed mushrooms 
 or truffles cut into pieces, if these are to be 
 had. Line a basin with thin slices of fat bacon, 
 put in the mince, and cover the top with bacon. 
 Cover the basin closely, and bake the mince 
 in the oven, or gently steam it over hot water 
 till a skewer will pierce it easily. Let it remain 
 till cold, trim neatly, and serve cut into slices. 
 
 VEAL, GODIVEAU (a kind of forcemeat). 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of lean veal free 
 from skin and sinew and an equal weight of 
 good beef suet. Mince these very finely. Add 
 a small bunch of parsley and a few chives, 
 chopped small, together with a seasoning of 
 pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Pound the 
 ingredients in a mortar till they form a smooth, 
 firm paste, and place this on ice for an hour. 
 Put it again into the mortar with three ounces 
 of pure ice, and pound it till it looks soft and 
 creamy. Eoll it in fiour on the table, divide 
 it into small round balls about the size of 
 marbles, and bake these on a baking-sheet in 
 a moderately-heated oven. Time to bake the 
 balls, five minutes. {See also Godiveaxt.) 
 
 VEAL, GOOSE. 
 
 This very savoury dish, which is a favourite 
 with many, may be made of breast of veal after 
 the tendons or bones have been removed, or of 
 the upper part of the fiank of the loin, or of the 
 skin of the best end of the neck which has been 
 pared off with about an inch and a half of the 
 flesh adhering to it. Lay the meat upon a table, 
 cover with sage and onion stuffing, such as is 
 used for goose ; then roll it, bind securely with 
 tape, and roast before a clear fire. When done 
 enough place it upon a hot dish, and send good 
 brown gravy and apple sauce to table with it. 
 
 VEAL GRAVY, ENDIVE WITH. 
 
 Wash and clean twelve heads of endive, and 
 beware of the worms which are generally found 
 in the heart. After having taken off all the 
 green part of the leaves, wash the endive again 
 in two or three different waters, and blanch 
 them to take away the bitter taste. Then throw 
 them into cold water, and when quite cold 
 squeeze them till there is no water left in them, 
 then chop them very fine. Next stew them in a 
 quantity of gravy sufficient to cover them en- 
 tirely, to which add a little salt and a very 
 small lump of sugar to counteract the bitter, tart 
 taste of the endive. Ascertain if they are done 
 
 enough by squeezing a bit between two fingers ; 
 if very tender they are done. Then add two 
 spoonfuls of Spanish sauce reduced, and use 
 them either for entremets, under poached eggs, 
 or for entrees, such as minces of mutton, fri- 
 candeaux, sweetbreads, fillets of fowl, etc. 
 
 VEAL, GRAVY FOR. 
 
 Take the bones and trimmings of the veal, 
 and if the bc/nes are large enough break them 
 into small pieces. Put them into a saucepan, 
 and pour over them a" much cold water as will 
 cover them. Supr-,oiiig there is a quart of 
 water, add a buiich of parsley, two sprigs of 
 thyme or marjoram, a quarter of the rind of 
 a lemon thinly pared, a blade of mace, a pinch 
 of pepper, and a few strips of bacou-rind if 
 they are at hand. Cover the saucepan closely, 
 and simmer the liquor gently till it is strong 
 and pleasantly flavoured. Strain it, pour it 
 into a bowl, and when cold remove the fat from 
 the top. When wanted, thicken with a little 
 brown thickening, and let it remain at the side 
 of the fire till it has thrown up the fat. If 
 brown thickening is not at hand, mix two table- 
 spoonfuls of flour smoothly with a little cold 
 water and a slice of butter, boil this with the 
 stock, and add a little sugar-browning. Pour 
 the fat from the pan under the veal, leaving 
 the brown gravy untouched. Stir the sauce into 
 the pan, dissolve a small lump of sugar in it, 
 add a little salt, boil it up once more, and serve 
 very hot. A little boiling cream may be added 
 if liked. Time, one to two hours to simmer 
 the stock. 
 
 VEAL, GRENADIN OF. 
 
 Prepare an equal number of neat pieces of 
 lean veal seasoned with pepper, salt, and 
 pounded mace, and of slices of good bacon, 
 together with a portion of good forcemeat. 
 Line a small dish with a veal caul, and be care- 
 ful to leave as much of the skin hanging over 
 the sides as will cover the meat entirely. Pill 
 the dish with alternate layers of bacon, veal, 
 and forcemeat, and let bacon form the under- 
 most and uppermost layers. Minced mushrooms 
 and savoury herbs may be added or not. Fasten 
 the caul over the meat, tie three or four folds of 
 paper over the' dish, and bake the grenadin in 
 a moderately-heated oven. Turn it upon a dish, 
 and send plenty of good brown gravy to table 
 with it. Time to bake a small dish, about an 
 hour. 
 
 VEAL, GRENADINS OF. 
 
 Take from the fillet a slice of veal about an 
 inch in thickness, and divide it into neat round 
 pieces ; or if preferred the round pieces of lean 
 cut out of five or six chops from the best end 
 of a neck or loin of veal may be used. Flatten 
 the coUops, and lard them very fhickly, on 
 one side only, with strips of fat bacon. Put 
 the bones and trimmings of the veal into a 
 stewpan with a pint and a half of cold water, 
 a carrot, a turnip, an onion stuck with two 
 cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, a sprig of mar- 
 joram, an ounce of lean ham, a small lump of 
 sugar, half a tea-spoonful of unmixed mustard, 
 and a little salt and white pepper. Let the 
 sauce boil till it is strong and pleasantly 
 flavoured. Skim frequently, and when it is 
 done enough strain it, let it get cold, and then 
 
VEA 
 
 988 
 
 VEA 
 
 remove the cake of fat from the top. Euh 
 garlic quickly across the bottoin. of a bright 
 stewpan, dissolve a thick slice of fresh butter in 
 it, lay in the pieces of veal, the larded side 
 uppermost, and let them remain until they are 
 lightly browned. Pour in as much of the 
 strained gravy as will just touch, without cover- 
 ing, the larding, and let the veal simmer gently 
 till done enough. Skim the gravy, and baste 
 the veal frequently with the liquor. Take out 
 the meat, and put into the gravy a pint of young 
 freshly-shelled green peas, with a small lump 
 of white sugar. Leave the lid off the pan, and 
 let the peas boil for five minutes, then put in 
 the veal, and let it simmer till the peas are 
 done enough. Put the peas on a dish, place 
 the collops, with the larding uppermost, upon 
 them, pour the gravy over all, and serve. If 
 preferred, instead of green peas being used, the 
 veal may be dished upon a puree of mushrooms, 
 cooked sorrel, and endive. Some cooks, instead 
 of making the grenadins of uniform size, cut one 
 large one to place in the centre, and form the 
 rest of the meat into diamonds, to be arranged 
 round it. Time, two hours to simmer the 
 grenadins. 
 
 VEAL, HARICOT. 
 
 Take the best end of a small neck of veal. 
 Shorten the bones, and either divide the meat 
 into cutlets, or leave it whole. Put it into a 
 stewpan, pour over it a pint of good brown 
 gravy, and let it simmer gently until three parts 
 cooked. Boil in stock in a separate saucepan 
 a pint of freshly-gathered and shelled young 
 peas, half a pint of carrots and turnips cut into 
 shapes, a small cauliflower, half a dozen young 
 onions, a sliced cucumber, a cabbage lettuce cut 
 into quarters, a pound of haricot beans soaked 
 overnight, or any suitable vegetables. When 
 these are nearly tender, add a little salt and 
 cayenne. Shortly before the haricot is to be 
 served, put the vegetables with the veal, and let 
 all simmer gently together for ten minutes. Put 
 the veal on a dish, arrange the vegetables round 
 it, and garnish with forcemeat balls. Send fried 
 bacon to table on a separate dish. If more 
 convenient, some of these vegetables may be 
 omitted, and when boiling the vegetables it 
 should be remembered that some kinds will 
 need to boil longer than others, according to 
 their nature and age. The appearance of the 
 veal will be improved if it is brightly browned 
 before being stewed, and a little acid will im- 
 prove its flavour for many. Time to simmer 
 the veal alone, about half an hour. Probable 
 cost, veal. Is. per pound. 
 
 VEAL, HASHED. 
 
 Any joint of veal not over-cooked may be 
 hashed, and will be found excellent. Cut the 
 meat into neat slices free from skin and 
 gristle. Cover these, and put them aside 
 till wanted. Slice two onions, and fry them 
 in butter, dredge a little flour upon them, pour 
 over them half a pint of stock or water, and 
 add a small bunch of sweet herbs, a quarter of 
 a tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg, a quarter of 
 a tea-spoonful of grated lemon-rind, and a 
 little salt and white pepper. Let all simmer for 
 a. few minutes till the liquor is strong and 
 pleasantly flavoured. Strain the gravy, put the 
 
 veal into it, let it simmer till it is hot without 
 allowing it to boil, then serve on a hot dish, 
 and garnish with toasted sippets. Time, alto- 
 gether, about three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 VEAL IMITATION OF MOCK TURTLE. 
 
 Put three or four pounds of knuckle of veal 
 into an earthenware pan with two calf's feet, 
 two onions, each one stuck with two cloves, 
 a bunch of sweet herbs, a blade of mace, half 
 a dozen allspice, and half a tea - spoonful of 
 peppercorns. Cover the ingredients with cold 
 water, tie several folds of paper over the jar, 
 put it in a well-heated oven, and let it remain 
 until the meat is quite tender. Take it up, 
 and let it get cold. Remove the cake of fat 
 from the top of the jelly, and cut the meat into 
 pieces convenient for serving, free from bone 
 or skin. Put these into a stewpan with the 
 jellied stock, a large spoonful of ketchup, 
 and whatever seasoning is required. Let the 
 preparation become quite hot, then add a 
 dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice, and serve with 
 forcemeat balls and hard-boiled eggs. If more 
 convenient, cow-heels may be used instead of 
 calf's feet. Time to bake the meat, three to 
 four hours. Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for 
 eight or nine persons. 
 VEAL IN JELLY (a breakfast or luncheon dish). 
 
 Take two pounds of lean veal from the breast 
 or fillet. Cut the veal into pieces an inch 
 square and some ham into thin slices. Line a 
 stewpan with thin slices of fat bacon, put in 
 the veal and ham, and add a calf foot, the veal 
 bones broken up small, two onions, two carrots, 
 a parsnip, a bunch of sweet herbs, half a blade 
 of mace, two inches of lemon-rind, and a little 
 pepper and salt. Pour a pint of veal stock or 
 water into the pan, let the liquor boil, skim 
 carefully, and let it simmer as gently as 
 possible till the meat is tender. Take up 
 the veal, and arrange it neatly in a mould. 
 Strain the gravy through a jelly-bag, boil 
 quickly for a few minutes, then pour it over 
 the meat, and turn it out when cold. 
 
 VEAL IN JELLY (another way). 
 
 Take the bones from a breast or fillet of veal, 
 and cut the meat into slices an inch thick and 
 the size and shape of the mould which is to be 
 used. Sprinkle each slice with a savoury powder 
 made by mixing two tea-spoonfuls of salt with 
 one tea-spoonful of white pepper, and one tea- 
 spoonful of powdered mace. Pour a tea-cupful 
 of veal stock or water in the bottom of the 
 mould, and fill it with alternate layers of veal 
 and thin slices of ham : let veal form the under- 
 most and uppermost layers. Press the meat 
 down tightly with a plate or dish a trifle smaller 
 than the top of the mould, so that the gravy may 
 run into it. Place a weight on the dish, and put 
 the mould in a moderate oven till the veal is 
 tender. Take it out, and let the weight remain 
 upon it till it is cold. Put the bones and trim- 
 mings of the veal into a saucepan with a hand- 
 ful of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, two 
 blades of mace, two square inches of thin 
 lemon-rind, half a salt-spoonful of peppercorns, 
 and two quarts of water. Let the liquor boil, 
 skim carefully, then simmer gently for three 
 hours. Strain it, let it get cold, and clear it 
 from fat. It ought to form a stiff jelly, but if 
 
VEA 
 
 989 
 
 VEA 
 
 not sufficiently firm it should either be boiled a 
 little longer or it should have a little isinglass 
 or gelatine dissolved in it. Mix a pint of this 
 jelly with the gravy that flowed into the dish 
 with which the meat was pressed, add a, table-, 
 spoonful of ketchup, and pour the liquor over 
 the veal. Let it get cold and stiff, then turn it 
 out in a shape upon a dish, and garnish with 
 parsley. Cut it into slices when serving. The 
 gravy should, of course, be made the day before 
 it is wanted. Time to bake the veal, three 
 hours. Probable cost, veal. Is. Id. per pound. 
 
 VEAL, ITALIAN. 
 
 Take half a pound of uncooked veal perfectly 
 free from skin and fat, pound it in a mortar 
 with a quarter of a pound of fat previously 
 boiled, or as much fat bacon, also boiled. Boil 
 in milk a French roll with an onion, a bay-leaf, 
 a small pinch of cayenne, white pepper, and 
 salt. Drain off the milk, remove the bay-leaf, 
 and beat the pounded veal and bread through a 
 coarse sieve. Mix in a beaten egg, and make 
 into rolls with a little flour. Boil these in 
 separate floured cloths, and serve turned out 
 on a dish, with gravy, white or brown, and a 
 little lemon-juice. Time, ten or twelve minutes 
 to boil. Probable cost, about Is. 
 
 VEAL, JUGGED. 
 
 Take from two to three pounds of lean veal, 
 cut it into neat slices convenient for serving, 
 and season with salt, cayenne, and powdered 
 mace. Put the slices into an earthenware jar, 
 pour over them half a pint of strong stock, and 
 add a small bunch of sweet herbs and a roll of - 
 thin lemon-rind. Cover the jar closely by tying 
 over it two or three folds of paper. Put it in 
 a dripping-tin three-parts filled with boiling 
 water, and place it in a moderately-heated 
 oven. Let it remain till the meat is tender. 
 Then remove the herbs and the lemon-rind ; 
 thicken the gravy with a little brown thicken- 
 ing, add the strained juice of half a lemon, and 
 serve the veal on a hot dish with the gravy 
 poured over it. Time to stew the meat, two 
 hours and a half to three hours. Probable cost, 
 2s. lOd. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 VEAL, JUGGED (another way). 
 
 Cut some slices of veal, and put them into an 
 earthenware jug with a blade of mace, a little 
 pepper, salt, and nutmeg, a sprig of sweet herbs, 
 and a bit of lemon-peel. Cover the jug closely, 
 that the steam may not get out ; set it in a pot 
 of boiling water, and about three hours will 
 do the meat. About half an hour before it is 
 done, put in a bit of butter rolled in flour, and 
 a little lemon-juice or lemon pickle. Turn the 
 whole out of the jug into a dish ; take out the 
 herbs and lemon-peel, and send the veal to table 
 garnished with lemon. 
 
 VEAL, KEBOBBED. 
 
 Cut some lean veal into thin slices about an 
 inch and a half in diameter, and not more than 
 a quarter of an inch thick, and season each one 
 of these with pepper, salt, powdered mace, and 
 alittle turmeric. Fasten them, alternately with 
 thin slices of onion and slices of pickled pork, 
 upon small skewers. Fry them in butter till 
 they are sufficiently cooked, or fasten the 
 skewers to a spit, and roast the meat before a 
 
 clear fire, basting liberally during the process ; 
 drain them, and serve on a hot dish garnished 
 with fried parsley. If liked, after the veal is 
 fried it may be stewed in good curry, gravy 
 flavoured with lemon-juice, and served with dry 
 rice. 
 
 VEAL KERNELS. 
 
 There are ten kernels in each calf — four in 
 each of the hind legs, and one in each shoulder. 
 Those in the shoulders are considered much the 
 best. French cooks trim, cook, and press these as 
 directed for Tendons or Veal, and serve them 
 in a circle on a dish, with a puree of vegetables 
 in the centre. Kernels are very variable in 
 price : they are cheapest in March, April, and 
 May. About a dozen are required for a dish. 
 
 VEAL KIDNEY. 
 
 A veal kidney should not properly be 
 separated from the loin, but should be roasted 
 and served with it. If wished, however, it may 
 be cut off, and may then be served with stews 
 of veal, or minced and made into forcemeat, 
 and served on fried bread, or it may be broiled 
 or fried like a sheep's kidney. 
 
 VEAL KIDNEY (a la Maitre d'Hotel). 
 
 Cut a veal kidney in half lengthwise. Season 
 the pieces with salt and pepper, dip them in 
 clarified butter, and afterwards in bread-crumbs, 
 and broil until sufficiently cooked. Put two 
 ounces of fresh butter on a plate, and with the 
 point of a knife work well into it a dessert- 
 spoonful of finely-minced parsley, a pinch of 
 salt, another of pepper, and four or five drops 
 of strained lemon-juice. Continue working 
 these ingredients until the mixture is of the 
 consistency of thick cream. When thoroughly 
 mixed, put the butter on a hot dish, place the 
 broiled kidney upon it, and serve. Time, seven 
 or eight minutes to broil the veal kidney ; three 
 or four minutes to mix the sauce. Probable 
 cost, lOd. Sufficient for one person. 
 
 VEAL KIDNEY, BROILED. 
 
 Skin the kidney and cut it in halves length- 
 wise. Flatten these, season with salt and 
 cayenne, dip them in clarified butter, and 
 bread-crumb them. Broil over ^ clear fire, and 
 serve on a hot dish with a small piece of maitre 
 d'hotel butter under them. This butter may be 
 made as follows. Pick and wash half an ounce 
 of parsley. Chop it small, then put it in the 
 corner of a napkin, dip it in cold water, and 
 wring it dry. Put it in a basin with a little 
 pepper and salt, three ounces of butter, and a 
 dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice. Beat it with 
 a wooden spoon or a knife till it looks like 
 cream, when it will be ready for use. If it is 
 placed too near the fire so as to melt the butter 
 the preparation will be spoilt. Time to broil the 
 kidney, eight minutes — i.e. four minutes to each 
 side. 
 
 VEAL KIDNEY CAKES. 
 
 Take a cold veal kidney, mince finely both fat 
 and lean, and mix therewith an equal weight 
 of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Season rather 
 highly with pepper and salt, and bind the mix- 
 ture together with the yolk of a well-beaten 
 e^%. Form it into cakes, dip these into melted 
 butter, and afterwards into finely-grated bread- 
 crumbs, and fry them in a little hot butter or 
 
VEA 
 
 990 
 
 VEA 
 
 lard till brightly browned. Drain the fat from 
 them before serving, and arrange neatly on a 
 dish garnished with parsley. Send good brown 
 sauce to table in a tureen. Time to fry the 
 cakes, about ten minutes. Probable cost, 6d. 
 Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 VEAL KIDNEYS, ROASTED. 
 
 Take two veal kidneys from a loin of veal 
 which has been roasted until done enough. 
 Mince them finely with some fat, and add a 
 table-spoonful of flavouring made of mushrooms 
 which have been stewed in butter, then chopped 
 small, and mixed with parsley, thyme, and onion 
 also fried. Season the forcemeat with salt and 
 cayenne, and bind it together with raw egg. 
 Cut one or two slices of stale crumb of bread 
 into neat shapes. Fry these in hot fat till they 
 are brightly browned on both sides, then drain 
 them, and spread the forcemeat upon them half 
 an inch thick. Brush the surface over with 
 yolk of egg, and sprinkle bread-crumbs upon it. 
 Place the pieces of bread thus prepared on a 
 very hot dish, place a dish-cover over them, and 
 serve immediately. 
 
 VEAL, KNUCKLE OF, AND RICE SOUP. 
 
 Take a knuckle of veal weighing about six 
 pounds. Divide it (sawing through the bones) 
 into half a dozen pieces, and put these in a 
 stewpot with a carrot, a turnip, a small onion, 
 half a dozen peppercorns, half a head of celery, 
 half a blade of mace, a tea-spoonful of salt, and 
 four quarts of cold water. Bring the liquid slowly 
 to the boil, remove the scum carefully as it rises, 
 and boil gently for three hours. Take out the 
 meat, cut it into convenient-sized pieces, and put 
 them aside for further use. Strain the soup. 
 Put it into a clean saucepan with twelve ounces 
 of rice already three-parts boiled, and boil for 
 three-quarters .of an hour longer. Add the veal, 
 and serve very hot. Time, four hours. Prob- 
 able cost, 5s. 6d. Sufficient for eight or ten 
 persons. 
 
 VEAL, KNUCKLE OF, BOILED. 
 
 A knuckle of veal is generally boiled, and 
 forms a most wholesome and nourishing dish. 
 It should be washed, then put into a stewpan, 
 covered with cold water, boiled, then simmered 
 gently and skimmed frequently for from two 
 hours and a half to three hours, or till the 
 gristle is quite tender, but not till the flesh will 
 leave the bone. On account of its sinewy nature 
 this joint needs to be well cooked. Either plain 
 melted butter or parsley and butter may be 
 poured over it and served with it. Egg sauce, 
 onion sauce, and white sauce are also suitable 
 accompaniments. Bacon and greens or mashed 
 turnips and potatoes are usually eaten with 
 knuckle of veal, and the dish should be garnished 
 with parsley, lemon-rind, and forcemeat balls. 
 Time, a knuckle of veal weighing about six 
 pounds, two hours and a quarter. Probable 
 cost, 7d. per pound. 
 
 VEAL, KNUCKLE OF, BOILED (another way). 
 
 Cut the shank-bone from a knuckle of veal. 
 This may be stewed separately in a little water 
 to make white sauce. Put the joint into a 
 saucepan, cover with cold water, and when it 
 begins to simmer throw in a tea-spoonful of 
 ealt to assist in throwing up the scum, skim 
 
 carefully, and let it boil gently until done 
 enough. Serve the joint on a hot dish, with either 
 white sauce or parsley and butter poured over 
 it, and more in a tureen. -Garnish with slices 
 of lemon and veal forcemeat balls. A piece of 
 boiled bacon, a, pig's cheek, or slices of fried 
 bacon should be sent to table with it. Time to 
 boil, fully twenty minutes per pound from the 
 time the water boils. Probable cost, d^d. or 
 lOd. per pound. Sufficient, a joint weighing six 
 pounds, for six or eight persons. 
 
 VEAL, KNUCKLE OF, BOILED (another way). 
 
 As veal is insipid, it is a meat seldom boiled. 
 The knuckle, however, being chiefly composed 
 of cartilage, is frequently boiled. It is some- 
 times boiled with rice, and the gravy drawn 
 from it is. flavoured with onions, a little mace, 
 and a few peppercorns. With the broth half 
 a, pint of cream or milk may be mixed, and the 
 whole — meat, rice, and broth — served together 
 in a tureen. If sent up separately, the veal will 
 rec[uire a sauce of parsley and butter, as well 
 as the accompaniment of boiled bacon on n 
 separate dish. 
 
 VEAL, KNUCKLE OF, CARVING. 
 
 The knuckle of veal is esteemed for its fat 
 and tendons about the knuckle. The best slices 
 can be cut only from the thickest part of the 
 knuckle. About this part is some delicious fat ; 
 and cutting in one direction two bones will be 
 divided. Between these fine marrowy fat is to 
 be found. 
 
 VEAL, KNUCKLE OF, RAGOUT OF. 
 
 Cut a knuckle of veal into small thick slices. 
 Sprinkle a little pepper and salt on these, dredge 
 flour upon them, and fry them in butter till 
 they are brightly browned on both sides. Drain 
 them, put them in a saucepan, and barely cover 
 them with boiling stock or water. Throw in a 
 bunch of sweet herbs, a blade of mace, and a 
 few outer sticks of celery. Let the liquor boil 
 up, remove the scum as it rises, then draw the 
 saucepan to the side and let its contents simmer 
 very gently till the veal is tender. Thicken 
 the gravy with ground rice, add a table-spoon- 
 ful of good store sauce, and serve. A few force- 
 meat balls may be added if liked. By way of 
 variety, a pint of freshly-shelled young green 
 peas may be stewed separately and served with 
 the veal. Cooked veal may be cut into small 
 pieces and stowed according to this recipe in a 
 little of the liquor in which it was boiled mixed 
 with milk. Whole rice or peas may be stewed 
 with it. Time to simmer the veal, about two 
 hours. Probable cost, knuckle of veal, 7d. per 
 pound. 
 
 VEAL, KNUCKLE OF, SOUP. 
 
 Take a knuckle of veal weighing about six 
 pounds, and break the bone in three or four 
 places. Put half a pound of bacon, in slices half 
 an inch thick, at the bottom of a stewpan, 
 place the meat on this, and add a carrot, a 
 turnip, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyine, 
 a few sticks of celery, two large onions with 
 three cloves stuck in each, and a tea-spoonful 
 of peppercorns. Barely cover the ingredients 
 with cold water, let the liquor boil, skim it, 
 then draw the saucepan to the side, and let its 
 contents simmer gently till the veal is quite 
 
VEA 
 
 991 
 
 VEA 
 
 tender. Take out the meat, strain the soup, 
 and let it stand till cold. Before serving, re- 
 move the cake of fat from the top. If there is 
 too much soup to use at once, a little may he 
 served at a time, and it may be thickened one 
 day with vermicelli, another day with macaroni, 
 and a third day with rice. T?ne veal may be 
 cut up into neat pieces and served with peas as a 
 ragout (see Veal, Knuckle of, RagoOt of), or, 
 if preferred, it ma^ be served in the soup. 
 Time, four hours to siminer the soup. Probable 
 cost, knuckle of veal, 7d. per pound. Sufficient 
 for ten or twelve persons. 
 
 VEAL, KNUCKLE OF, STEWED WITH GREEN 
 PEAS. 
 
 Take a small knuckle of veal. Melt a slice 
 of fresh butter in a frying-pan, and put into it 
 two onions sliced and the knuckle of veal whole. 
 Turn the meat about till it is lightly and equally 
 browned. Put it into a stewpan with the onions 
 and as much boiling stock or water as will cover 
 it. Let the liquor boil, then simmer gently for 
 an hour. Add two lettuces finely shredded, a 
 pint of freshly-shelled green -peas, two tea- 
 spoonfuls of salt, and a tea-spoonful of pepper, 
 and simmer all gently together another hour. 
 Serve the meat on a hot dish with the gravy 
 poured over it, and send boiled rice to table 
 on a separate dish. If liked, one or more cu- 
 cumbers, pared, freed from seeds, and sliced, 
 may be stewed in the gravy as well as the peas. 
 Boiled bacon should be sent to table with it. 
 Time to stew the veal, about two hours or more, 
 according to size. Probable cost, four pounds 
 at 5d. per pound, five pounds at 6d. per pound, 
 six pounds at 7d. per pound. 
 
 VEAL, KNUCKLE OF, STEWED WITH MACARONI. 
 
 Break the shank-bone of a small knuckle of 
 veal, wash the joint well, and put it into a stew- 
 pan with a shallot or a small onion, and a little 
 pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Cover with 
 stock or water, and let it simmer for an hour 
 and a half. Throw half a pound of macaroni 
 into it, and let it simmer till tender, when it 
 will be ready for serving. If preferred, the 
 sauce may be thickened and will be much im- 
 proved by boiling with it for the last ten 
 minutes a table-spoonful of ground rice mixed 
 smoothly with milk; a little cream may be 
 added to enrich it. Time, two hours. Probable 
 cost, veal, 5d. to 7d. per pound. Sufficient for 
 four or five persons. 
 
 VEAL, KNUCKLE OF, STEWED WITH RICE. 
 
 Put a small knuckle of veal into a stewpan 
 just large enough to contain it. If too large, 
 so much water will be needed that the veal will 
 be rendered insipid. Cover with stock or water, 
 throw a tea-spoonful of salt into it, let the 
 liquor boil, skim carefully, and simmer gently 
 for three-quarters of an hour. Throw into it 
 half - a pound of well-washed rice, and let all 
 stew gently together till the meat and the rice 
 are tender. Half an hour before it is taken 
 up, season the preparation with mace and 
 cayenne, and add a little more salt if required. 
 Send boiled bacon and parsley and butter to 
 table with the veal. Time to stew the veal, 
 two hours to two hours and a half — half an hour 
 to the pound, Probable cost of the veal, 5d. to 
 7d. per pound. 
 
 VEAL LIVER Pfiri (to be eaten cofd). 
 
 Take one pound of calf's liver and ten ounces 
 of fat bacon. Mince these first separately, and 
 afterwards together, and season the mixture 
 with pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Add two 
 table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, two ounces 
 of finely-minced lean ham, and a moderate- 
 sized onion that has been sliced and browned in 
 fat. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and stir 
 into them first the beaten yolks, and afterwards 
 the well-whisked whites of two eggs. Line a 
 mould with thin slices of fat bacon, put in the 
 mince, place slices of bacon on the top, and 
 bake the pate very gradually in a gentle oven. 
 When it is done enough it can be easily pierced 
 quite through with a skewer. Let it get cold, 
 turn it upon a dish, and garnish with parsley. 
 Carve it in slices. 
 
 VEAL, LOIN OF. 
 
 The loin is generally considered the prime 
 joint of veal for roasting. It is frequently 
 divided, and then there is the kidney end and 
 the chump end. The chump end is sometimes 
 stuffed, but if this is not done forcemeat balls 
 should be served with it. A loin of veal is fre- 
 quently stewed also, and in winter-time is ex- 
 cellent. 
 
 VEAL, LOIN OF (i la Creme). 
 
 Prepare and roast a loin of veal in the usual 
 way. About a quarter of an hour before it is 
 done enough take up the dripping-tin, put a 
 clean dish in its place, and baste the veal con- 
 tinually with boiling cream. This will impart 
 to its surface a rich brown coating of delicious 
 flavour. Dish the veal, and in doing so handle 
 it carefully, for fear of injuring its surface. 
 Pour two table-spoonfuls of boiling water into 
 the dish over which it was basted, and in this 
 stir the brown gravy which has dropped from 
 the joint, and add it to half a pint of good 
 white sauce. Poui- some of this round the veal, 
 and serve the rest in a tureen. Ham, tongue, 
 or pickled pork will be needed as an accompani- 
 ment. 
 
 VEAL, LOIN OF (au Bechamel). 
 
 Take a loin of veal, and have it boned entirely 
 by the butcher. Take out the kidney, remove 
 some of the fat, and put the kidney back in its 
 place. Sprinkle a little pepper and salt over 
 the veal, roll in and skewer the flap to give the 
 joint a good shape, and put a buttered paper 
 round the meat. Boast before a cle.ar fire, and 
 baste liberally. Ten minutes before taking up 
 the meat remove the paper, sprinkle a little salt 
 upon the meat, and let it brown. Send be- 
 chamel sauce to table in a tureen. Serve boiled 
 ham or bacon on a separate dish. Time to 
 roast the loin, two hours to two hours and a 
 half, or twenty-five minutes to the pound. 
 Probable cost, lid. per pound. 
 VEAL, LOIN OF (au Bechamel), Cold Meat Cookery. 
 
 Take the remains of a cooked loin of veal. Cut 
 off some of the meat, mince finely, and season 
 with salt, cayenne, and grated lemon-rind. Wrap 
 the loin in oiled paper, place it in the oven, and 
 heat throughout. Moisten the mince with be- 
 chamel, and make it quite hot. Dish it, put 
 the loin over it, pour about a quarter of a 
 pint of bechamel upon it, and serve imme- 
 
VEA 
 
 992 
 
 VEA 
 
 diately. Fried or boiled bacon should be sent 
 to table with this disli. Time, about one hour 
 and a half to heat the joint. 
 
 VEAL, LOIN OF, BOILED. 
 
 It is not often that the loin of veal is boiled 
 whole, as it is always best to finish it the day 
 on which it is cooked, because cold boiled veal 
 is not a particularly relishing dish. Neverthe- 
 less, to invalids and persons of delicate taste 
 boiled veal is sometimes more acceptable than 
 roast veal. The best end of the loin, with the 
 kidney left in, is excellent, and should be served 
 with oyster or well-made white sauce. , The 
 chump end may be accompanied by parsley and 
 butter. A loin of veal should ba boiled just 
 like i» fillet of veal, though on account of its 
 being less solid it will not need to be boiled 
 quite so long. A piece weighing from eight to 
 ten pounds will need to simmer from two hours 
 and a quarter to two hours and a half. 
 VEAL, LOIN OF, BRAISED, 
 
 Take four pounds of the chump end of a 
 loin of veal. Take out the bone, and fill the 
 cavity with good veal forcemeat. If liked, this 
 may be omitted. Bind tightly with string, then 
 put it in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, 
 and turn it about till it is lightly and equally 
 coloured all over. Lay some slices of bacon over 
 it, and add the bones and trimmings of the 
 veal, a large carrot, an onion sliced, a bunch 
 of sweet herbs, half a tea-spoonful of whole 
 pepper, a blade of mace, and a little salt. Pour 
 over all a quart of stock, and simmer the veal as 
 gently as possible, basting frequently with the 
 liquor till it is tender. Take it up, and put it 
 in the oven to keep hot. Strain the gravy, 
 skim the fat from the surface, and boil quickly 
 till it is considerably reduced. Put the meat on 
 a dish, glaze it with part of the gravy, and stir 
 into the rest an anchovy, a spoonful of capers, 
 and a glassful of light wine. Dressed sorrel, 
 spinach, or endive, may be served on a separate 
 dish. Time to simmer the veal, two hours. 
 
 VEAL, LOIN OF, BRAISED, SUPERLATIVE. 
 
 Take' the best end of a loin of veal weighing 
 about eight pounds, and trim it square. Cut 
 the flap slightly, and in the incision thus made 
 just over the ends of the bones place some nice 
 veal forcemeat. Fasten -securely with skewers 
 and string. Cover the bottom of a braising- 
 pan with sliced vegetables, and lay the veal on 
 them ; pour in as much stock or water as will 
 just reach the surface of the veal. Lay a round 
 of oiled paper on the top, if possible put some 
 live embers on the lid of the pan, and braise the 
 meat over a gentle fire till it is quite tender. 
 Baste frequently with its liquor. When done 
 enough, take it up, drain it, and put it in the 
 oven to keep hot. Strain the gravy, skim the 
 fat from it, and boil quickly till it is much 
 reduced and begins to thicken, then glaze the 
 meat with it. Place the joint on a dish, and 
 garnish with cooked vegetables, arranging these 
 so that the colours will contrast one with 
 another. Cauliflowers, carrots, turnips, mush- 
 rooms, tomatoes, lettuces, asparagus, sorrel, en- 
 dive, and spinach may all be served with braised 
 loin of veal and mushrooms. Tomato, white 
 Italian, or brown sauce may accompany it. 
 Time to braise the veal, three hours. 
 
 VEAL, LOIN OF, CHUMP END, ROASTED. 
 
 Make an incision in the skin round the thick 
 part of the joint with a sharp knife, and in 
 this put some good veal forcemeat. Grease a 
 sheet of white paper, wrap it round the joint, 
 then put it dov/n before a clear fire, and rather 
 close to it. At the end of a quarter of an hour 
 withdriiw it to a distance, and let it roast very 
 gently till done enough. Baste liberally. Half 
 an hour before it is taken up remove the paper, 
 dredge a little flour upon the meat, and sprinkle 
 over it a little salt and the strained juice of a 
 lemon. Let the veal brown brightly. Mix a slice 
 of butter very smoothly with a dessert-spoonful 
 of flour. Pour upon this a cupful of boiling 
 water, add a little salt, and boil the sauce for 
 a few minutes. Pour the fat out of the 
 dripping-tin, leaving the brown gravy un- 
 touched. Stir the melted butter into this, strain 
 it into the saucepan, and again let it boil. Put 
 the veal the broad side downwards on a dish. 
 Pour part of the gravy over it; put the rest in 
 a tureen, and serve immediately. Send a cut 
 lemon to table on a plate, and let boiled tongue, 
 ham, bacon, or pickled pork accompany the 
 veal. Time to roast the veal, twenty-five 
 minutes to the pound. Probable cost, lOd. per 
 pound. 
 
 VEAL, LOIN OF, KIDNEY END, ROASTED. 
 
 Place a piece of buttered paper round the lean 
 part of the loin, being careful to cover the kid- 
 ney entirely with its fat. Hang the veal close 
 to a good fire. At the end of twenty minutes 
 draw it back a little, and roast gently, basting 
 frequently until done enough. Half an hour 
 before it is taken up remove the paper, dredge 
 a little flour upon the veal, and sprinkle over it 
 the strained juice of a lemon and a little salt. 
 Continue to baste until it is brightly browned. 
 Make a little brown sauce according to the 
 instructions given in the preceding recipe. Toast 
 a round of bread on both sides. Put it on a hot 
 dish, and place the veal upon it, with the kidney 
 resting on the toast. Pour a littls of the gravy 
 over the meat, serve the rest in a tureen, and 
 send a cut lemon to table on a plate. Bacon, 
 ham, or tongue should be served with this 
 dish. Time to roast the veal, twenty-eight 
 minutes to the pound. Probable cost, lid. 
 per pound. 
 
 VEAL, LOIN OF, ROAST. 
 
 Make an incision in the flap or skirt of the loin, 
 and into the cavity thus made, just over the 
 ends of the bones, put some good veal forcemeat. 
 Roll in the flap to cover the kidney-fat, and 
 skewer it down, or bind with string. Wrap the 
 loin in well-greased sheets of paper, and put it 
 down, at a moderate distance, before a clear fire. 
 Baste liberally. Half an hour before it is done 
 enough take away the paper, and let the veal 
 brown. If the paper is not put on, the joint 
 must be well dredged with flour soon after it is 
 put to the fire. When done enough, put the 
 veal on a hot dish, and pour either clear brown 
 gravy or good brown sauce over it. Garnish 
 the dish with sliced lemon and fried forcemeat 
 balls. Ham, tongue, bacon, or pickled pork 
 should be served with it. In some places egg 
 sauce and brown gravy are served with roast 
 veal. If the loin is a very large one, the kidney 
 
VEA 
 
 993 
 
 VEA 
 
 ihould be skewered back for a while to ensure 
 ts being svifficiently cooked. Care should be 
 taken that the joint is hung before the fire in 
 iuch a way that both ends will be equally done, 
 rime, a large loin of veal, about three hours. 
 Probable cost, lid. per pound. 
 
 I'EAL, LOIN OF, STEAMED (a German recipe). 
 
 Bone a loin of veal, remove the kidneys, and 
 trim away the superfluous fat. Spread a layer 
 of veal forcemeat over the inner side of the 
 veal, then roll it, and bind with twine to keep 
 it in shape. Dissolve a slice of butter in a 
 saucepan, put in the veal, and turn it about over 
 the fire till it is equally and lightly browned all 
 over. Put with it a sliced carrot, a small onion, 
 two bay-leaves, and a little pepper and salt. 
 Pour a tea-cupful of stock over it, cover the 
 saucepan closely, and let the veal steam gently 
 till tender. Take up the joint, strain and skim 
 the gravy, stir into it a cupful of sour cream 
 and two table-spoonfuls of bruised capers. Let 
 it boil, and pour it over the meat. If liked, the 
 kidneys may be browned and steamed with the 
 loin. Time to steam the veal, an hour and a 
 half to two hours. 
 
 VEAL, LOIN OF, STEWED, PLAIN. 
 
 Take the chump end of a moderate-sized loin 
 of veal; put it into a stewpan with a slice of 
 fresh butter, and turn it about imtil it is lightly 
 and equally browned. Pour over it boiling stock 
 or water to half its depth, and add two sliced 
 carrots, two small onions, and a bunch of sweet 
 herbs. Let it simmer gently for an hour, care- 
 fully removing the scum as it rises. Turn it 
 upon the other side, and simmer another hour. 
 Dish the joint. Skim the gravy, pour some of 
 it over the veal, and send the rest to table in 
 a tureen. Ham, bacon, or pickled pork should 
 accompany this dish. Time, two hours. Prob- 
 able cost, chump end of a loin of veal, lOd. per 
 pound. 
 
 VEAL, LOIN OF, STEWED, SUPERIOR. 
 
 Take the chump end of a loin of veal weighing 
 about seven pounds, and let the butcher bone it. 
 Fill the cavity thus made with good veal force- 
 meat, and bind the meat into a good form with 
 tape. Put it into a stewpan with half a pound 
 of bacon cut into slices, two carrots, two onions, 
 each stuck with a clove, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, a few outer sticks of celery, half a tea- 
 spoonful of peppercorns, a blade of mace, and 
 half the thin rind of a lemon. Half a dozen 
 mushrooms may be added if liked, and will be 
 an improvement. Barely cover the ingredients 
 with veal stock, and let all simmer gently till 
 the veal is tender. Draw the saucepan on one 
 side, and take out as much of the stock as will 
 be needed for sauce. Thicken this with white 
 thickening or with a little butter rolled in flour. 
 Place the veal on a dish, garnish with the bacon, 
 pour the sauce over, and serve. Time to simmer 
 the meat, two hours. Probable cost, veal, lOd. 
 per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 VEAL, LOIN OF, STUFFED AND BRAISED 
 
 (to eat cold). 
 
 Take a, loin of veal with two neck-bones. 
 
 Bone it, and stuff with good veal forcemeat. 
 
 Wrap the sides round the forcemeat, skewer the 
 
 joint flrmly, and bind with tape, keeping it as 
 
 3l 
 
 oblong as possible. Wrap it in a napkin, tie 
 the ends securely, and tie the meat also across 
 in two or three places to keep it in shape. 
 Place it on a bed of sliced vegetables in a 
 braising-pan, cover with as much stock as will 
 barely reach to the edge of the surface of the 
 veal, close the stewpan, and boil and simmer 
 the veal very gently for four hours. Take the 
 stewpan from the fire, but do not take out the 
 veal until the liquor is cool. Remove the nap- 
 kin, tie the meat in a clean one, put over it a 
 dish with a heavy weight upon it, and let it 
 remain until the next day. Trim neatly, brush 
 over with liquid glaze, and garnish with aspic 
 jelly, parsley, etc. This dish will be much im- 
 proved if three or four truflles finely minced, a 
 little red tongue, and the veal kidney finely 
 minced, be added to the forcemeat. Time to 
 braise the veal, four hours. 
 
 VEAL, LOIN OF, STUFFED AND ROASTED. 
 
 After taking the bones from the meat, lay it 
 flat on the table, and spread it with veal 
 stufiing (see Teal Forcemeat). Mince the kid- 
 ney of the loin and strew it over, then roll, and 
 tie tightly with wide tape ; cover with greased 
 paper, and cook gently till done. Remove the 
 paper, and let the meat brown. Serve on a 
 hot dish, with brown sauce flavoured with lenion 
 juice poured round it. Garnish with little rolls 
 of bacon and small mushrooms or tomatoes. 
 Time, about three hours. 
 
 VEAL, MARBLED. 
 
 Cut into thin slices a dried tongue which has 
 been skinned and boiled in the usual way. 
 Pound these in a mortar with a little butter 
 and a seasoning of pepper and pounded mace. 
 Mince and pound separately an equal weight 
 with the tongue of cold roast veal, and season 
 this with salt and cayenne. Spread a layer of 
 the veal in the bottom of a potting-pan, put 
 the tongue on it in large lumps, leaving a space 
 between each lump, and fill up the empty spaces 
 with veal. Press the meat closely into the pan. 
 Povir clarified butter over to the thickness of 
 half an inch, and keep the preparation in a cool 
 place till wanted. 
 
 VEAL, MINCED. 
 
 Take the remains of cold cooked veal free 
 from skin, bone, and fat. Mince finely, and put 
 the meat aside. Put the brown skin, the bones, 
 and trimmings into a saucepan with a little salt 
 and pepper, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and a 
 piece of thin lemon-rind. Pour over these as 
 much stock or water as will cover them, and 
 let the gravy simmer till it is strong and plea- 
 santly flavoured. Strain the sauce, and, sup- 
 posing there is a pound and a half of meat, stir 
 into it a little more seasoning if needed, one- 
 eighth of a pint of cream or milk, md a small 
 piece of white thickening, or about an ounce of 
 butter rubbed in flour. When the sauce is 
 smooth and thick put in the minced veal, and 
 let it simmer very gently indeed till it is quite 
 hot, but it must not boil or it will be hard. 
 Serve on a hot dish, and garnish with toasted 
 sippets. If brown gravy is preferred to white, 
 the cream must be omitted, and the gravy must 
 be thickened with brown thickening, or if this 
 is not at hand flour and butter may be used, 
 and a few drops of sugar browning be ad^ed. 
 
VEA 
 
 994 
 
 VEA 
 
 An onion with two cloves stuck into it should 
 then be stewed with the gravy, and a glassful 
 of port or claret may be added if liked. Fried 
 rashers of bacon should accompany this dish. 
 Time, an hour and a half to draw the gravy; 
 half an hour to simmer the mince in the gravy. 
 
 VEAL, MINCED, AND MACARONI. 
 
 Soak half a pound of macaroni in water for 
 an hour, then put it into salted water, and boil 
 gently till tender. Whilst it is boiling cut 
 about a pound and a half of cold roast veal into 
 thin slices free from fat, skin, and bone. Mince 
 the meat finely with a quarter of its weight 
 in ham (if this is to be had) ; season the mince 
 with salt, white pepper, grated nutmeg, and 
 grated lemon-rind, and add a quarter of a pound 
 of bread-crumbs. Bind the mixture together 
 with one or two eggs. Butter a mould, drain 
 the macaroni, and wind it round and round the 
 inside. Put the mince in the centre, place a 
 dish on the top of the mould, and steam the 
 preparation over boiling water. Turn it upon 
 a dish, and serve with brown gravy, made from 
 the bones and trimmings of the veal and ham, 
 poured round, but not upon it. Time to boil 
 the macaroni, varying with the quantity ; to 
 steam the preparation, half an hour. Probable 
 cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 8d. Sufficient 
 for four persons. 
 
 VEAL, MINCED, «ND MACARONI (another way). 
 Soak and boil the macaroni as before. Mince 
 and flavour the veal, and mix with it a table- 
 spoonful of flour. Cleanse, peel, and slice three 
 fresh truffles. Dissolve an ounce of butter in 
 a saucepan, put in the truflfies, and fry them 
 gently for eight minutes. Pour over them half 
 a pint of good gravy and the minced veal, and 
 let them simmer as gently as possible for half 
 an hour. Add a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice 
 and two table-spoonfuls of sherry; turn the 
 preparation into a mould lined with macaroni, 
 and steam as in the last recipe. 
 
 VEAL, MINCED AND SCALLOPED. 
 
 To prepare this dish two or three scallop-shells 
 are wanted, though small dishes or saucers may 
 he used instead. Cleanse the shells, and butter 
 them thickly. Mince the veal, and season in 
 the usual way, then moisten and simmer it for 
 three or four minutes in some good gravy drawn 
 from the bones. Put a heaped table-spoonful 
 of the mince into each shell. Cover it with 
 seasoned bread-crumbs, lay little pieces of 
 butter here and there on the top, and brown the 
 surface in a Dutch oven before a clear fire. 
 Serve the preparation in the shells, which 
 should be neatly placed on a hot dish covered 
 with a folded napkin. 
 
 VEAL, MINCED, MOULDED. 
 
 Cut into thin slices three-quarters of a pound 
 of cold roast veal free from bone, skin, and 
 fat, and mince them finely with a quarter of a 
 pound of lean ham and a table-spoonful of 
 bread-crumbs. Add half a tea-spoonful of 
 finely-chopped onion (this, however, may be 
 omitted); a pinch of grated lemon-rind, a pinch 
 of grated nutmeg, and a little pepper and salt. 
 Jlix these ingredients thoroughly, and bind the 
 mixture together with the yolk of an egg. 
 Butter a mould, put in the mince, and bake in 
 
 a moderate oven. When done enough turn it 
 upon a hot dish, and pour round, but not over 
 it, some good brown gravy made of the bones 
 and trimmings of the veal. Garnish with sip- 
 pets, and send fried bacon to table on a separate 
 dish. Time to bake the preparation, three- 
 quarters of an hour, Probable cost, exclusive 
 of the cold meat, 4d. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 VEAL, MINCED, WITH FOWL. 
 
 The white flesh of a boiled or roast fowl is 
 very good mixed with minced veal. It should be 
 seasoned and flavoured in the same way. A 
 little lean ham is always an improvement to 
 this dish. 
 
 VEAL, MINCED, WITH POACHED EGGS. 
 
 Cut the lean meat from the bones, and mince 
 it finely with a small portion of lean ham, if it 
 is to be had. Break up the bones, and stew 
 them in as much water as will cover them, 
 with a carrot, an onion stuck with two cloves, 
 three or four outer sticks of celery, a bunch of 
 sweet herbs, and a little pepper and salt. Sim- 
 mer the gravy for an hour or more, strain, skim 
 it, thicken with white thickening or with flour 
 and butter kneaded together, and add a little 
 milk or cream. Stir the sauce over the fire till 
 it is smooth and thick, pour half of it into an- 
 other saucepan, and add the minced veal to the 
 remainder. Let it remain on the fire till the 
 veal is thoroughly hot. It must not boil or the 
 meat will be hard ; care must be taken, too, to 
 keep it from burning. Pile the mince in the 
 centre of a dish, lay poached eggs upon it, and 
 garnish it round with small rolls of thin fried 
 bacon. Pour over the mince a little of the 
 sauce which was kept aside, and send the rest 
 to table in a tureen. Time, one hour and a 
 half to stew the gravy. 
 
 VEAL, MINCED, WITH POTATOES (a plain family 
 dish). 
 Take the remains of cold cooked veal. Free 
 the lean part entirely from skin, bone, and fat, 
 and mince it finely. Stew the bones and trim- 
 mings with as much cold water as will cover 
 them, to a strong gravy. Mix with the minced 
 - veal an equal quantity (or more if liked) of 
 cold boiled potatoes. Put the mixture into a 
 saucepan, moisten with a little of the gravy, 
 and add pepper and salt as recjuired. Dredge a 
 little flour into the mince, dissolve a slice of 
 fresh, butter in it, and let it simmer over a 
 moderate fire till it is thoroughly hot. Stir 
 occasionally to keep it from burning. Time, 
 half an hour to heat the mince. 
 
 VEAL, MOUSSE OF. 
 
 Line an oval Charlotte mould with aspic; 
 garnish with slices of truffle and strips of hard- 
 boiled white of egg, or with cooked sweetbread 
 stamped out in fancy shapes. Pound and sieve 
 three ounces of cooked veal with two ounces of 
 foie gras, mix it with half a pint of cool stock 
 in which half an ounce of sheet gelatine has 
 been melted, and a glass of sherry. Stir in a 
 table-spoonful of truffle essence, and whip the 
 mixture until it looks spongy. Put the mixture 
 into the mould ; pour more aspic over the top, 
 and set on ice until firm. Turn out, and 
 garnish with slices of truffle and blocks of aspic. 
 
VEA 
 
 995 
 
 VEA 
 
 VEAL, NEAPOLITAN TURNOVERS OF. 
 
 Cut half a pound of cooked lean veal and two 
 ounces of cooked ham (fat and lean together) 
 into thin slices, and mince these finely. Dis- 
 solve in a saucepan a piece of butter the size of 
 a walnut, and fry in it a finely-minced shallot 
 and a dessert-spoonful of chopped parsley. Drain 
 these, and put them in a mortar with the minced 
 meat, a table-spoonful of grated Parmesan, a 
 pinch of cayenne, a pinch of grated nutmeg, 
 and a salt-spoonful of white pepper. Pound 
 these ingredients thoroughly, and whilst pound- 
 ing add gradually a table-spoonful of strong 
 stock which is a jelly when cold, a dessert- 
 spoonful of sherry, a salt-spoonful of essence of 
 anchovy, and a well-beaten egg. Have ready 
 some good pastry made for the purpose, and 
 rolled to the thickness of a shilling. Cut this into 
 pieces three inches square, and lay a spoonful 
 of the forcemeat on one corner of each. Turn 
 the corners over, moisten the edges with beaten 
 egg, and press them together to make them 
 stick. Put a quart of water into a saucepan, 
 throw a tea-spoonful of salt into it, and let it 
 boil. Drop the turnovers into it, and let them 
 simmer for five minutes. Drain them, and put 
 them into a dish. Have ready prepared some 
 good stock made by simmering the bones and 
 trimmings of the veal, with a carrot, an onion, 
 a bunch of sweet herbs, and as much water as 
 will cover them. Strain this stock, skim the fat 
 from it, and put half a pint of it into a sauce- 
 pan with a wine-glassful of light wine, two 
 table-spoonfuls of grated Parmesan, a slice of 
 butter, a tea-spoonful of ketchup, a spoonful of 
 mustard, and another of essence of anchovy. 
 Stir the gravy over the fire for five minutes, 
 pour it over the turnovers, sprinkle a little 
 grated cheese on the surface, and bake the turn- 
 overs in a quick oven. Serve them on the dish 
 in which they were baked. The pastry should 
 be made fully three hours before it is used, 
 and kept in a cool place till wanted. It may be 
 made by mixing half a salt-spoonful of salt with 
 six ounces of baked flour, then rubbing into this 
 one ounce of butter, and working into the mix- 
 ture the yolks of three eggs beaten up with a 
 wine-glassful of cold water. 
 
 VEAL, NECK OF. 
 
 The best end of the neck is generally chosen 
 for roasting, and is excellent served with force- 
 meat balls round it, though it is not usual to 
 stuff it with forcemeat. It is also very good 
 braised or stewed. The scrag end of the neck 
 should be made into a pie or used for broth. 
 Probable cost, best end, from lid. to Is. per 
 pound; scrag end, from 7d. per pound, accord- 
 ing to size. 
 
 VEAL, NECK OF (^ \a CrSme) 
 
 Take the best end of a iieck of veal. Loosen 
 the. flesh from the ends of the bones. Cut the 
 bones short to make the joint as square as pos- 
 sible, then fold and skewer the flank under- 
 neath. Wrap the joint in oiled paper, fasten it 
 upon the spit, and put it down at a moderate 
 distance from a clear fire. Baste liberally. 
 Eemove the paper, and baste the joint with a 
 pint of good white sauce or with cream. This 
 will impart to the surface of the veal a rich 
 brown appearance and a delicious flavour. Serve 
 
 the meat on a hot dish, poiir white sauce round 
 it, and send a little more to table in a tureen. 
 If liked, white mushroom sauce may be served 
 with the veal, as well as, or instead of, bechamel. 
 Some cooks before roasting the veal let it 
 lie in oil for a couple of hours, with a little 
 pepper, salt, and powdered sweet herbs sprin- 
 kled over it. Time to roast the veal, two hours 
 to two hours and a quarter, or twenty-five 
 minutes to the pound. 
 
 VEAL, NECK OF, BRAISED. 
 
 Take about four pounds of the best end of 
 a neck of veal. Cut off the long bones, and saw 
 off the chine-bone. Put in the bottom of a 
 braising-pan a sliced carrot, an onion stuck with 
 two cloves, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of 
 thyme, a bay-leaf, and a few. sticks of celery, 
 with two or three slices of lean bacon or ham. 
 Add the bones and trimmings of the veal with 
 the scrag end of the neck if it is not wanted for 
 other purposes. Pour in a little stock or water, 
 as much as will almost, but not quite, cover 
 the veal. Set the pan over a slow fire, and let 
 its contents simmer very gently till the veal is 
 tender. Strain the liquor, and boil half of it 
 quickly till it begins to thicken. With this 
 glaze the meat until it has a bright glossy ap- 
 pearance. Thicken the remainder with a small 
 piece of brown thickening, or with flour and 
 butter kneaded together and stirred quickly 
 over the fire until the paste is brown. Boil the 
 sauce till smooth, skim well, stir the juice of an 
 orange or lemon into it, and serve with the 
 meat. Cooked vegetaTales, such as peas, onions, 
 carrots, potatoes, spinach, sorrel, endive, and 
 asparagus, may be served with the veal, and 
 part of these may be used to garnish the dish. 
 If liked, rice boiled for curry and with curry 
 sauce poured over it may be sent to table as an 
 accompaniment. Time, from an hour and three- 
 quarters to two hours to stew the veal. Prob- 
 able cost, lid. or Is. per pound. Sufiicient foi 
 five or six persons. 
 
 VEAL, NECK OF, BRAISED (a la Barbarie). 
 
 Braise the best gnd of a neck of veal according 
 to the instructions already given, and be- 
 fore doing so lard it with strips of truffles (see 
 Veal, Neck of, Laeded). Put bacon over the 
 veal in the pan to preserve the colour of the 
 meat, and send Italian sauce to table as an 
 accompaniment. 
 
 VEAL, NECK OF, LARDED. 
 
 To lard a neck of veal, first trim it by shorten- 
 ing the long bones and sawing off the chine- 
 bone. "With a sharp knife remove the skin 
 and sinew which cover the fillet, leaving the 
 bones covered with fat, and lard the fillet thus 
 bared closely and evenly with strips of fat 
 bacon. Afterwards braise the veal according 
 to the instructions already given, and be careful 
 that the liquor is high enough only to reach 
 just to the surface of the veal, and that it does 
 not cover the larding. When the veal is tender, 
 take it up, and keep it hot. Strain the liquor, 
 skim the fat from it, and boil it down till it 
 begins to thicken. Put the veal in the oven, 
 and baste constantly t*or a quarter of an hour, 
 or till it has a bright glossy appearance. Place 
 it on a dish, and send good brown sauce and 
 cooked vegetables to table, with it. 
 
VEA 
 
 996 
 
 VEA 
 
 VEAL, NECK OF ROAST. 
 
 Take the best end of a neck of veal, saw off 
 the chiue-bone, and run a strong skewer through 
 the joint lengthwise, wrap in buttered paper, 
 and tie it to the spit If the joint is not 
 wrapped in paper, it must be well dredged 
 with flour, and basted veryj liberally with drip- 
 ping from the pan. Put it down before a clear 
 fire, and at a sufficient distanc to keep it from 
 being scorched. A quarter of an hour before 
 the joint is taken up. remove the paper, dredge 
 the meat with flour, and baste with a little 
 butter dissolved in a spoon. Pour the fat from 
 the pan, leaving the brown sediment behind, 
 stir into this a quarter of a pint of thin melted 
 butter, and add a 'little salt ; then strain the 
 sauce into a saucepan, and let it boil. Put the 
 joint on a hot dish, pour part of the sauce round 
 it, and send the rest to table in a tureen. Send 
 the joint to table accompanied by bacon, ham, 
 tongue, or pickled pork on a separate dish, and 
 with a cut lemon on a plate. Parsley sauce, 
 onion sauce, white sauce, and rice sauce may 
 all be served with roast neck of veal. Time to 
 roast the veal, an hour and a half to two hours, 
 or twenty-five minutes to the pound. Probable 
 cost, lid. or Is. per pound. 
 
 VEAL, NECK OF, STEWED, 
 
 Take the best end of a neck of veal. Lard it, 
 or if this cannot be conveniently done, cover 
 with a thin slice of fat bacon, and roast it for 
 one hour. Put it into a stewpan, pour over it a 
 quart of stock made from bones, and add a bunch 
 of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, two 
 onions thinly sliced, half a dozen mushrooms., 
 half a tea-spoonful of whole pepper, and four 
 ounces of picked and washed rice. Let the 
 liquor boil, then draw the saucepan to the side, 
 and let its contents simmer as gently as possible 
 till the meat is tender. Put the veal on a dish, 
 strain part of the gravy over it, and send the 
 rest 'to table in a tureen. Garnish with the 
 boiled rice. Time, altogether, two hours. 
 Probable cost, veal, lid. or Is. per pound. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 VEAL, NORMAN HARICOT OF. 
 
 Take two pounds and a half of veal chops. 
 Trim them neatly, free them almost entirely 
 from fat, and brown them lightly in a little 
 butter. Put them into a stewpan, pour over 
 them a pint of boiling stock, add a bunch of 
 parsley, and simmer very gently for three- 
 quarters of an hour. Clean two pounds of new 
 potatoes. Let them boil up once, then put 
 them in the stewpan above the meat, cover 
 closely, and simmer again until they are done 
 enough. Before serving add salt and pepper 
 if required. Place the cutlets in the centre of 
 a hot dish, and put the potatoes round them 
 with any other vegetables that may have been 
 cooked for the purpose. Young carrots, green 
 peas, or cauliflowers are all good. A slice of 
 lean ham is a great improvement to this dish. 
 Time, an hour and a, quarter. Probable cost, 
 3s. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 VEAL OLIVE PIE. 
 
 Take the remains of a cooked fillet of veal. 
 Cut the meat into thin slices, cover these with 
 pieces of bacon, spread forcemeat upon them, 
 and roll them firmly. Place them in a pie-dish. 
 
 piling them high in the centre, pour over them 
 a little gravy made from the bones and trim- 
 mings of the veal and thickened with brown 
 thickening. Line the edges of the dish with 
 pastry, cover with the same, and bake the pie 
 in a well-heated oven.' The pie will, of course, 
 be mucH better if the olives are made with fresh 
 veal. Time to bake a moderate-sized pie, one 
 hour to one hour and a half. 
 
 VEAL OLIVE PIE, SUPERIOR. 
 
 Make the olives according to the instructions 
 given in the following recipe (see Veal Olives). 
 Place them in the pie-dish, piling them highest 
 in the centre, and intersperse amongst them 
 a dozen or more forcemeat balls about the size 
 of marbles, the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs 
 cut in halves, eight or ten stewed mushrooms, 
 and a pickled cucumber sliced. Pour over the 
 olives some good highly-seasoned gravy thick- 
 ened with brown thickening and flavoured with 
 lemon-juice and a glassful of sherry. A little 
 cream may be added if liked. Cover the pie 
 with good pastry, and bake it in a well-heated 
 oven. Time to bake a moderate-sized pie, one 
 hour to one hour and a half. 
 
 VEAL OLIVES. 
 
 Cut from an uncooked fillet of veal half a 
 dozen slices half an inch thick, seven inches 
 long, and four inches broad. Flatten these with 
 a chopper, and brush them over with beaten 
 yolk of egg. Lay upon each a thin slice of fat 
 bacon the same size as the veal, brush this also 
 with yolk of egg, and spread a layer of good 
 veal forcemeat over it. Roll each piece up 
 tightly, and bind it with twine. Flour the 
 olives, or, if preferred, brush them with egg, 
 and roll them in bread-crumbs. Melt a little 
 dripping in a frying-pan, put in the olives, and 
 turn them about till they are lightly browned 
 all over. Drain, and place them closely side by 
 side in a saucepan just large enough to hold 
 them. Pour over them as much boiling gravy 
 as will cover them, and let them simmer very 
 gently till done enough. Lift them on to a dish, 
 strain the gravy over, and garnish with slices 
 of lemon and sprigs of parsley. Send fried 
 bacon to table on a separate dish. The gravy 
 in which the olives are to be stewed may be 
 made as follows. Take the bones and trimmings 
 of the veal with any bones of poultry there may 
 be ; break them into small pieces, and put them 
 in a stewpan with a slice of butter or dripping, 
 two sliced onions, a handful of parsley, a blade 
 of mace, four cloves, and six or eight pepper- 
 corns. Shake the saucepan over the fire till the 
 ingredients become slightly browned, then pour 
 in gradually a quart of hot water. Let this 
 boil, and thicken with a lump of brown thick- 
 ening. Failing this, mix a table-spoonful of 
 flour smoothly with a little cold water in a 
 basin. Stir a portion of the boiling liquor with 
 this, and add it to the rest. Add also a table- 
 spoonful of ketchup and as much sugar brown- 
 ing as will make the gravy a good colour. 
 Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents 
 simmer gently till the gravy is strong and plea- 
 santly flavoured. Strain the sauce, let it cool 
 a short time, clear it from fat, stir in some salt, 
 let it boil, and it will be ready for use. If there 
 are no bones from the veal, one pennyworth of 
 
VEA 
 
 997 
 
 VEA 
 
 fresh bones or half a pound of lean beef or veal 
 may be used instead. Time, one hour and a 
 half to simmer the bones, two hours to stew 
 the olives. Probable cost, veal. Is. Id. per 
 pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 VEAL OLIVES (another way). 
 
 Cut from the fillet five slices of veal six 
 inches long, four wide, and as thin as possible, 
 and an equal number of exceedingly thin slices 
 of bacon of the same shape and size. Flatten 
 the veal with a chopper, spread a portion of 
 forcemeat upon it, and cover this with the 
 bacon. Roll the olives firmly, and fasten them 
 with a skewer, or bind them with twine. Flour 
 them, or, if preferred, dip them twice in beaten 
 egg and bread-crumbs. Brown them in a little 
 fat, put them side by side in a small stewpan, 
 cover with gravy, and simmer very gently till 
 tender, basting them constantly. When done 
 enough place them on a dish, strain and skim 
 the gravy, and stir into it a glassful of light 
 wine or a table-spoouful of lemon-juice or wal- 
 nut pickle. Let it boil, pour it over the olives, 
 and serve. By way of variety, instead of ordin- 
 ary veal forcemeat the stuffing may be prepared 
 as follows. With the back of a knife scrape 
 half a pound of uncooked veal and one ounce 
 of lean ham till the fibre only is left. Put the 
 pulp into a mortar with a cleaned anchovy, an 
 ounce of suet from the loin chopped separately, 
 a tea-spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, half a 
 tea-spoonful of mixed and powdered herbs, a 
 dessert-spoonful of cornfiour, and a little salt, 
 cayenne, and grated nutmeg. Mix and pound 
 the ingredients thoroughly, and bind the force- 
 meat together with beaten egg. Time, about 
 two hours to stew the olives. Probable cost, 
 veal. Is. Id. per pound. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. 
 
 VEAL OLIVES (another way). 
 
 Prepare the olives in the usual way. Brown 
 them in a little fat, drain them, pack them in a 
 saucepan, and stew them in gravy till tender. 
 A few minutes before serving put with them 
 half a pint of stewed button mushrooms, a, 
 table-spoonful of lemon pickle or lemon-juice, 
 and a glassful of Marsala. A dozen fried 
 oysters may be added if liked. 
 
 VEAL OLIVES, ROASTED. 
 
 Prepare the olives as before. Skewer them 
 and bind them firmly to keep iu the forcemeat. 
 Flour them, or, if preferred, dip them in egg 
 and roll them in bread-crumbs, lay them on a 
 lark-spit, and put them down to a clear fire. 
 Baste liberally till done enough. Take them 
 up, and serve with good brown gravy or with 
 mushroom sauce and sliced cucumber. Time to 
 roast the olives, about three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 VEAL PATTIES. 
 
 Make the patty-cases in the usual way (see 
 Pattibs, Peepaeation of). Bake them, and, 
 when they are done enough, have ready to fill 
 them a savoury preparation made according to 
 any of the following recipes. No. 1. Mince, 
 first separately and afterwards together, half a 
 pound of lean veal and two ounces of ham. 
 Add a table-spoonful of flour, a tea-spoonful of 
 grated Parmesan, the rind of half a lemon, 
 grated, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and a little 
 
 pepper and salt. Mix the ingredients thor- 
 oughly. Put the mince into a saucepan and 
 moisten it with a little strong veal stock that 
 will jelly when cold. Stir over a gentle fire 
 for a quarter of an hour. Add two table-spoon- 
 fuls of thick cream and a dessert-spoonful of 
 lemon-juice, and the mince will be ready for use. 
 No. 2. Mince half a pound of cooked lean veal 
 free from skin and fat, and half a dozen oysters 
 separately. Take as much nicely-flavoured veal 
 stock (that will jelly when cold) as will moisten 
 the mince. Mix ■with it two table-spoonfuls of 
 thick cream, the oyster liquor, and a quarter of 
 a tea-spoonful of grated lemoji-rind. Put the 
 sauce with the, mince into a saucepan, and let 
 it get quite hot. Put in the ousters for half a 
 minute, and serve. No. 3. Take a pound of 
 cooked lean veal free from skin and gristle. 
 Cut it into strips, and mince finely with a 
 quarter of a pound of lean ham. Put the bones 
 and trimmings of the veal into a saucepan with 
 a pint of water, a bunch of parsley, an inch of 
 thin lemon-rind, half a dozen peppercorns, and 
 a blade of mace. Simmer this gravy for an 
 hour or more till it is strong and pleasantly 
 flavoured. Strain it, let it get cold, and free 
 it from fat. Put the minced veal into a small 
 saucepan with as much gravy as will moisten it, 
 and add three table-spoonfuls of cream and a 
 srnall piece of butter rolled in flour. Stir the 
 mince over a gentle fire till it is quite hot and 
 smooth, when itwill be ready for use. If pre- 
 ferred, the mince may be baked in the cases 
 insteiad of being put into them after they are 
 baked, but it is best to bake the pastry sepa- 
 rately, as the mince hardens in baking. 
 
 VEAL PATTIES, FRIED. 
 
 Mince half a pound of cooked lean veal and a 
 quarter of a pound of ham. Season the mince 
 with salt, cayenne, grated lemon-rind, and- 
 grated nutmeg, and mix with it an egg boiled 
 hard and chopped small. Moisten with nicely- 
 flavoured stock that forms a strong jelly when 
 cold, and add a little cream. EoU some good 
 pastry to the thickness of half a crown. Put 
 upon this little mounds of the mince an inch dis- 
 tant from each other. Place a piece of pastry 
 over all, and stamp the covered mounds out in 
 patties with a round cutter. Moisten the edges, 
 and press the pagtry together round the mince. 
 When wanted, drop the patties into hot fat 
 and fry them till they are lightly browned. 
 Drain them, andserve on a neatly-folded napkin 
 garnished with parsley. If preferred, the pat- 
 ties may be baked in a moderate oven instead 
 of being fried. Time to fry the patties, a quar- 
 ter of an hour. 
 
 VEAL PIE. 
 
 Any part of lean veal free from fat and bone 
 may be used for a pie. The loin and the best 
 end of the neck are excellent for the purpose 
 when the bone and the greater part of the fat 
 are removed. Slices from the fillet are very 
 good also. The knuckle, part of the leg, the 
 breast, and the shoulder may also be advanta- 
 geously used, but they should be partially 
 stewed before being put into the pie, as other- 
 wise they will not be tender. Veal pie may 
 be made plain or rich according to choice. 
 Ham or bacon, forcemeat balls, hard-boiled 
 
VEA 
 
 998 
 
 VEA 
 
 ^ggs, sweetbreads, oysters, mueirooms, truffles, 
 etc., may all be introduced. If ham or bacon 
 has been cured with saltpetre there is a danger 
 that it will mate the veal red, and so spoil the 
 appearance of the pie. On this account cooked 
 ham or bacon is to be preferred, though it is 
 not so savoury. 
 
 VEAL PIE, GOOD. 
 
 Take a pound and a half of veal cutlets a 
 quarter of an inch thick aijd free from skin and 
 bone, also half a pound of thin ham. Season 
 the meat with a^ little salt, pepper, grated nut- 
 meg, grated lemon-rind, and powdered mace, 
 and let the quantity of salt used be regulated 
 by the quality of the ham. Divide the meat 
 into pieces an inch and a half square, put it in 
 layers into a buttered pie-dish, and pour over 
 it one-eighth of a pint of cold stock or 
 water. Intersperse amongst the pieces of veal 
 the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs and four 
 forcemeat balls, together with four button 
 mushrooms, or a truffle, if these can be had., 
 The pie, however, will be very good without 
 them. Line the edge of the dish with good 
 pastry, cover with the same, trim with a sharp 
 knife, and ornament the pie. Make a hole in 
 the centre that the steam may escape, and bake 
 the pie in a moderate oven. Have ready some 
 nicely-seasoned veal gravy to pour into the pie 
 after it is baked. Lay paper over the pastry 
 in the oven to keep it from browning too much. 
 Time to bake the pie, two hours. Probable cost, 
 3s. 6d. Sufflcient for a moderate-sized dish. 
 VEAU PIE, GOOD (another way). 
 
 Cut a pound and a half of veal cutlet, free 
 from skin and bone, into pieces an inch and a 
 half square, and cut half a pound of thinly-sliced 
 ham into pieces of the same size. Fill a but- 
 tered pie-dish with the veal and ham in alter- 
 nate layers, and place the yolks of four hard- 
 boiled eggs on the surface. Mince four button 
 mushrooms, one shallot, and a bunch of parsley. 
 Fry these in an ounce of butter for a few 
 minutes, then pour upon the mixture half a 
 pint of stock or water, and add a small piece 
 of brown thickening or a table-spoonful of flour 
 mixed smoothly with a little ketchup. Simmer 
 the gravy, stirring well until it boils. Add a 
 table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and strain some 
 of the broth upon the veal. Bake the pie in a 
 well-heated oven. Pour a little good gravy into 
 it before serving. Time to bake the pie, an hour 
 and a half to two hours. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. 
 Sufficient for a moderate-sized dish. 
 VEAL PIE, PARSLEY. 
 
 Cut some slices of lean veal into neat pieces, 
 and season these with salt and cayenne. Take 
 a handful of parsley, pick the leaves from the 
 stems, scald them, press, dry, and chop them 
 small. Fill the dish with layers of veal, and 
 sprinkle a little parsley over each layer. Pour 
 milk into the dish instead of stock. Cover the 
 dish with pastry in the usual way, and bake 
 until done enough. Lift up the crust, pour 
 away the milk, and substitute for it half a pint 
 of boiling cream. Serve immediately, 
 VEAL PIE, PLAIN (for family use). 
 
 Take two pounds of the breast of veal, cut 
 it into pieces an inch and a half square, and 
 season the meat by sprinkling over it a savoury 
 
 powder made of two tea-spoonfuls of salt, one 
 tea-spoonful of white pepper, half a tea-spoon- 
 ful of pounded mace, and half a tea-spoonful of 
 grated lemon-rind. Pour over the meat a small 
 quantity of water, and add a few sticks of 
 celery, an onion, and a small bunch of sweet 
 herbs. Let the meat heat gently, and add a 
 little more water till there is as much as will 
 barely cover the meat. Stew the veal very 
 gently till it is tender. Let it remain until 
 cold, then take out the fat. Place the meat in 
 layers in a. pie-dish, and put in with the veal a 
 little ham or bacon, three eggs boiled hard, 
 shelled, and sliced, and a few forcemeat balls. 
 All or any of the latter ■ ingredients may be 
 omitted. Strain a little of the stock over the 
 meat. Line the edges of the dish with pastry, 
 cover with the same, and make a hole in the 
 centre. Ornament the surface of the pie, brush 
 it over with yolk of egg, and bake m a well- 
 heated oven. Turn the pie about that it may be 
 equally baked. Boil the gravy that was not 
 used, and when the pie comes from the oven 
 pour it in. If more convenient, the veal, in- 
 stead of being stewed in a saucepan, may be put 
 into a pie-dish, covered with a dish, and stewed 
 in a moderate oven. Time to stew the veal, 
 about one Hour and a quarter; to bake the pie, 
 three-quarters of an hour to one hour gnd a 
 quarter. Probable cost, veal, 9d. or lOd. per 
 pound. 
 
 VEAL PIE, RAISED. 
 
 Take a pound and a half of lean veal and a 
 pound of ham. Cut three parts of the veal into 
 neat pieces, and season these with pepper and 
 chopped mushrooms. Mince the remainder of 
 the veal with an equal quantity of fat bacon, 
 pound the mixture in a mortar, and season with 
 salt and cayenne. A small piece of onion, 
 herbs, and spices may be added to the force- 
 meat, if liked. Line a mould with pastry in 
 the usual way. Cover the bottom with force- 
 meat, and fill the pie with alternate layers of 
 thinly-sliced ham, veal, and forcemeat. Lay 
 thin slices of fat bacon on the top of the meat, 
 put a bay-leaf on that, and finish and bake the 
 pie (see Eaised Pies). Half an hour after it 
 is taken from the oven pour into it, through a 
 pointed strainer placed in the hole at the top, 
 a little highly-seasoned gravy which will form 
 a strong jelly when cold. This gravy may be 
 made by stewing in stock or- water for a couple 
 of hours a calf's foot and the bones and trim- 
 mings of the veal with an onion stuck with two 
 cloves, a small bunch of herbs, and a little pep- 
 per, salt, and grated nutmeg. When the pie is 
 sufficiently baked, a skewer will pierce it easily. 
 If liked, the pieces of veal in the pie may be 
 larded. Time to bake the pie, two hours or 
 more. (See also VsAii Pies, Raised, Smail.) 
 
 VEAL PIE, SOLID. 
 
 Put a piece of the knuckle of veal into a stew- 
 pan, cover with water, let it boil upi then simmer 
 till the meat is quite tender. Let it get cold, 
 ■ then divide it into small pieces. Butter a plain 
 round or oval shape, and cover the bottom with 
 the yolks and whites of hard-boiled eggs neatly 
 arranged. Place over these some pieces of the 
 meat and gristle, with a seasoning of salt, pep- 
 per, pounded mace, and grated lemon-rina.' 
 
VEA 
 
 999 
 
 VEA 
 
 Pour in a little of the gravy in which the meat 
 was boiled, and which ought to form a strong 
 jelly when cold, and fill the dish with the meat, 
 hard-boiled eggs, and sliced beetroot, so ar- 
 ranged that the colours will contrast prettily. 
 Pour in as much gravy as will cover the ingre- 
 dients, and bake the pie in a well-heated oven. 
 When quite cold, turn it out. It oiisfht to have 
 a glazed appearance. Time to bake, twentv 
 minutes. 
 
 VEAL PIES, RAISED, SMALL. 
 
 Take the lean part of the best end- of a neck 
 of veal, with half its weight in thinly-sliced 
 ham. Divide the fiieat into pieces an inch 
 square. Put the bones and trimmings of the 
 meat into a saucepan, cover them with water, 
 add flavouring ingredients, and stew the liquor 
 till it is pleasantly flavoured and so strong that 
 it will jelly when cold. Put the veal into a 
 stewpan, cover it with the strained stock, and 
 add one-eighth of a pint of cream and a few 
 mushrooms, if these can be obtained. Let the 
 veal simmer gently for an hour, then let it get 
 cold. Line some small pate moulds. Fill them 
 with the preparation, cover them, and bake 
 till done enough. Serve cold, lime to bake 
 the pies, according to size ; say till a skewer will 
 pierce them easily. {See also Veal Pie, Baised.) 
 
 VEAL PIE, SUPERLATIVE. 
 
 Butter a dish, and fill it with alternate layers 
 of lean veal out into neat pieces and seasoned 
 with pepper, salt, and pounded mace, lean ham 
 sliced, sweetbread, and chopped truffles. Place 
 little pieces of butter here and there in the pie. 
 Cover the dish with rich pastry, and bake till 
 done. After the pie is taken from the oven, 
 pour into it through the hole in the centre some 
 gravy made of strong, highly-seasoned veal 
 stock mixed with a glassful of champagne. 
 
 VEAL PIE, WITH OYSTERS. 
 
 Take a pound and a half of veal cutlet half 
 an inch thick. Flatten the meat with a cutlet- 
 bat, sprinkle over it a seasoning of pepper, salt, 
 and grated nutmeg, and cut it into neat pieces. 
 Spread upon these a thin covering of lean ham 
 minced and pounded, and roll them up. Place 
 them at the bottom of a, pie-dish, and put a 
 layer of oysters upon them. Repeat until the 
 dish is full. Stew the bones and trimmings of 
 the veal in stock or water, thicken the liquor 
 with flour and butter, and add the oyster liquor. 
 Pour the strained gravy over the meat, and 
 keep back a portion to put into the pie when it 
 is baked. Cover the pie with pastry, and bake 
 in the usual way. Time to bake the pie, an 
 hour and a half to two hours. 
 
 VEAL PIE, WITH PORK. 
 
 Take equal quantities of veal and pork in 
 slices half an inch thick, cut the meat into neat 
 pieces, and season these with pepper, salt, and 
 pounded mace. Boil two onions, mince them 
 finely, and mix with them a tea-spoonful of chop- 
 ped parsley and another of shredded sage. Fill 
 the dish with alternate layers of veal and pork, 
 and sprinkle a little of the savoury mixture over 
 each layer. Pour half a tea-cupful of veal stock 
 or water over the meat, cover with pastry, and 
 hake in the usual way. Time to bake the pie, 
 an hour and a half to two hours. 
 
 VEAL PIE, WITH POTATOES (Cold Meat Cookery).. 
 Cut some cold cooked veal into small neat 
 pieces, and slice double the quantity of small 
 cold boiled potatoes. Butter a pie-dish, and 
 fill it with alternate layers of cold meat and 
 sliced potatoes. Season each layer with pepper 
 and salt, grated nutmeg, and grated lemon- 
 rind, and lay little pieces of butter here and 
 there upon it. Cover the meat with good pastry, 
 and bake in a well-heated oven. When the 
 pastry is done enough, the pie will be ready for 
 serving. 
 
 VEAL PIE, WITH SAUSAGE. 
 
 Take from the fillet of veal some cutlets 
 half an inch thick. Season these with pepper, 
 salt, and powdered mace, and filfe a dish with 
 alternate layers of the cutlets and of thinly 
 sliced Bologna sausage. The veal will yield 
 suf&cient gravy to moisten the pie. Cover with 
 good pastry, and bake in the usual way. This 
 pie is excellent eaten cold. 
 
 VEAL PIE, WITH SWEETBREADS. 
 
 Take a pound and a half of veal and a sweet- 
 bread. Cut the veal into pieces an inch and a 
 half square, and season these as in the previous 
 recipes. Soak the sweetbread for an hour, throw 
 it into boiling salted water, and boil for a quar- 
 ter of an hour. Cut it into slices. Butter the 
 pie-dish, fill it with alternate layers of veal 
 and sweetbread, and intersperse amongst the 
 pieces of meat, oysters, mushrooms, or force- 
 meat balls. Lay lipon the surface three or four 
 hard-boiled yolks of eggs. Pour over the whole 
 a small quantity of gravy made from the bones 
 and trimmings of the veal stewed in cold water 
 till the stock will jelly when cold, and flavoured 
 with lemon, sweet herbs, and ketchup. Have 
 ready some nicely-seasoned gravy to pour into 
 the pie when it is baked. Cover and bake the 
 pie in the usual way for one hour and a half 
 to two hours. 
 
 VEAL, PILAU OF. 
 
 Wash a pound of rice, throw it into boiling 
 water, and boil it quickly for five minutes. 
 Drain it, put it into a stewpan with four ounces 
 of butter, and stir over a brisk fire till the rice 
 is equally and lightly coloured without being 
 at all burnt. Pour over it a pint and a half of 
 stock or water, and let it simmer very gently 
 till the grains are tender. Sprinkle "a little 
 curry-powder over the rice, and stir it with a 
 fork. Spread a little on a dish. Place upon it 
 a few cooked veal cutlets or a small breast of 
 veal, which has been partially roasted, cut into 
 neat pieces, and stewed in rich gravy. Arrange 
 a few rashers of fried bacon round the veal, 
 cover the meat with rice, brush over with 
 beaten egg, and place it in the oven till it is 
 brown and hot throughout. Garnish the dish 
 with forcemeat balls, and serve hot. Time, 
 altogether, two hours and a half to three hours. 
 
 VEAL PLUCK. 
 
 Take a calf's heart, with the liver and lights. 
 Wash the heart in several waters, let it soak 
 for half an hour, drain and dry it, fill it with 
 good veal forcemeat, tie thin slices of fat bacon 
 round it, and roast or bake it. Soak the lights 
 and part of the liver, boil them for an hour, and 
 mince them. Put this mince into a stewpan with 
 
VEA 
 
 1000 
 
 VEA 
 
 a little pepper and salt, the thin rind of half a 
 lemon, half a blade of mace, and a pinch of 
 grated nutmeg. Cover with gravy, and let it 
 simmer gently till done enough. Season with 
 pepper and salt, and add a table-spoonful of 
 chopped parsley, a table-spoonful of ketchup, 
 and a little strained lemon-juice. Slice the 
 remainder of the liver, and fry in the usual way 
 {see, LivEB, Feied). Place the mince upon a 
 dish, put the heart upon it, and garnish the 
 dish with the fried liver, fried rashers of bacon, 
 toasted sippets, and parsley. Serve very hot, 
 and send good brown gravy to table with it. 
 Time, one hour and a half to roast the heart; 
 half an hour to simmer the mince in the gravy. 
 
 VEAL POT PIE (economical family dish). 
 
 Take two pounds of the breast or scrag of 
 veal, or, if preferred, two pounds of cold cooked 
 veal. Cut it into small pieces convenient for 
 serving, and with it half a pound of pickled 
 pork. Put these into a saucepan, cover with cold 
 water, and let them simmer gently till tender. 
 If the veal has been cooked, only the bones and 
 trimmings of the meat ought to be stewed. 
 Put the meat into a dish, and let it cool. Line 
 the edges of a large pie-dish with good plain 
 pastry or with bread dough rolled to the thick- 
 ness of half an inch. Put in the meat with six 
 or eight potatoes, and dredge a table-spoonful 
 of flour over all, with a tea-spoonful of pepper. 
 Strain the gravy over it, adding water, if neces- 
 sary, to make the quantity up to one quart. 
 Cut off as much pastry as is required to cover 
 the dish, and lay the remainder in slices upon 
 the meat. Put some skewers across to support 
 the pastry, and place the cover on the top. 
 Press the edges securely, make a slit in the 
 centre that the steam may escape, and bake the 
 pie in a well-heated oven. When serving turn 
 the pastry on a dish, place the meat upon it, 
 and pour the gravy over all. Wholesome pastry 
 may be made as follows. Put two pounds of 
 flour into a bowl, mix with it a tea-spoonful of 
 salt, make a hole in the centre, and stir into it 
 a tea-spoonful of powdered saleratus dissolved 
 in a cupful of water. Make it into soft dough 
 with sour milk. 
 
 VEAL POTTAGE. 
 
 Cut away from a knuckle of veal all the meat 
 that can be stewed or made useful in any way, 
 then break the bone into four or five pieces, and 
 put these into a stewpan with an onion stuck 
 with two cloves, a small blade of mace, a bunch 
 of parsley, a, sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, six or 
 eight peppercorns, and a little bacon-rind. Pour 
 over these ingredients five pints of cold water. 
 Bring the liquor to the boil, skim carefully, 
 draw the saucepan to the side, and let its contents 
 simmer gently. When sufficiently boiled strain 
 the soup into a pan, and let it stand till the next 
 day. Remove the fat from the top, take up the 
 jelly free from sediment, and boil vegetables, 
 such as celery, artichokes, or turnips, in it till 
 tender. Rub the vegetables through a hair sieve, 
 and mix the pulp with the liquor. Stir into it 
 half a table-spoonful of fiour which has been 
 mixed to a smooth paste with half a pint of 
 cream or milk. Let the soup boil a few minutes ; 
 add pepper and salt to taste, and serve. Time, 
 five hours to boil the stock. 
 
 VEAL, POTTED. 
 
 Take about a pound of cooked veal free from 
 skin, bone, fat, and gristle. Cut it into small 
 pieces, and mince finely. Put it in a mortar, 
 and whilst pounding keep adding graduailly as 
 much pepper, salt, and pounded mace as will 
 season and flavour it pleasantly, together with 
 about two ounces of butter broken into small 
 pieces, and a spoonful or two of strong veal 
 gravy made by stewing the bones and trimmings 
 in water. Pound the preparation till it is a 
 perfectly-smooth paste, press it into small jars, 
 and cover with a layer of clarified butter or 
 dripping a quarter of an inch thick. The addi- 
 tion of a quarter of a pound of lean ham will 
 greatly improve this dish. Let it stand twenty- 
 four hours before using it, and store in a cool, 
 dry place. 
 
 VEAL, POTTED, MADE WITH FRESH MEAT. 
 
 Take a thick slice of lean uncooked veal. 
 Season with pounded mace or grated nutmeg 
 and white pepper ; put it into a potting-pan 
 that will just hold it, pour cold water over, 
 cover closely, and bake gently till quite tender. 
 Let it get cold, cut it small, and pound it in 
 a mortar till smooth. If to be used at once, 
 quickly moisten with a little of its own gravy. 
 If to be kept a short time, add a little clarified 
 butter only. Press it into jars, and cover with 
 melted butter or suet a quarter of an inch thick. 
 Store in a cool, dry place. Time to bake the 
 veal, three hours. 
 
 VEAL, POTTED, WITH TONGUE. 
 
 Take three-quarters of a pound of cold cooked 
 veal, free from fat, skin, and gristle, and a quar- 
 ter of a pound of boiled tongue. Mince these 
 ingredients finely, and pound them to a per- 
 fectly-smooth soft paste. Add very gradually 
 whilst pounding five ounces of clarified butter, 
 a small tea-spoonful of white pepper, half a 
 spoonful of freshly-made mustard, a tea-spoon- 
 ful of essence of anchovy, and a pinch of grated 
 nutmeg. Add salt if required, but it is prob- 
 able that the tongue will make the whole salt 
 enough. Press the meat into small potting-jars, 
 cover with clarified butter or dripping, and 
 store in a cool, dry place. 
 
 VEAL PUDDING. 
 
 Line a shallow pudding-basin with suet crust 
 rolled to the thickness of half an inch, and leave 
 the pastry an inch over the edge. Fill the dish 
 with alternate layers of lean veal cut into neat 
 pieces and ham thinly sliced, and sprinkle over 
 each layer a little pepper and salt, and add 
 pounded mace. Pour a quarter of a pint of veal 
 gravy over the meat; lay a cover of pastry on 
 the top, moisten the edge of the piece of pastry, 
 draw it over the cover, and press the two closely 
 together. Wring a pudding-cloth out of boilins; 
 water, flour it, and tie the basin loosely in it. 
 Plunge the pudding ir ,o fast-boiling water, and 
 boil quickly until done enough. Take it up, let 
 it stand a few minutes, turn it upon a dish, and 
 serve very hot. A pound and a half of lean 
 veal and half a pound of ham will make a 
 moderate-sized pudding. Time to boil the pud- 
 ding, two hours to two hours and a half. Prob- 
 able cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five 
 
VEA 
 
 1001 
 
 VEA 
 
 VEAL PUDDING, BAKED. 
 
 Take half a pound of cold roast veal, carefully 
 freed from skin, fat, and gristle, and finely 
 minced. Mix thoroughly with it a tea-spoonful 
 of salt, a pinch of cayenne, a pinch of grated 
 nutmeg, and the grated rind of half a lemon. 
 Pour half a pint of nicely-flavoured boiling 
 grav^ (made by stewing the trimmings of the 
 veal in water) over two ounces of finely-grated 
 bread-crumbs. Let them all cool, then stir into 
 it the minced veal, and add three well-beaten 
 eggs. Whisk the mixture briskly for a minute 
 or two, turn it into a well-buttered dish, and 
 bake in a moderate oven. If liked, the crumbs 
 may be soaked in cream instead of gravy. Time 
 to bake the pudding, one hour. Probable cost, 
 lOd., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for 
 three or four persons. 
 VEAL QUENELLES (an entree). 
 
 Take a slice of lean veal from the leg, cut it 
 into long thin strips, and scrape it with a knife 
 till nothing but the fibre remains. Put the flesh 
 in a mortar, pound for ten minutes, then pass it 
 through a wire sieve on to a plate. Put back 
 in a mortar six ounces of the veal thus prepared, 
 also four ounces of panada, and three ounces of 
 fresh butter. Pound these ingredients together 
 till they are perfectly blended and form a 
 smooth paste, and add gradually a little pepper, 
 salt, and pounded mace or grated nutaneg. 
 The more the forcemeat is pounded the better 
 it will be. Moisten gradually with two whole 
 eggs, and pound it again. Poach a small ball 
 in boiling water to see if the forcemeat is light, 
 fine, and delicately fiavoured. If it is not suf- 
 ficiently firm, add the yolk only of another egg. 
 The white will only serve to render the quenelles 
 hollow and puffy inside. A small quantity of 
 white sauce will improve the forcemeat, which 
 should be kept in a cool place till wanted. 
 Half an hour before the quenelles are to be 
 served mould the forcemeat with a dessert- 
 spoon (see Qttbnelles), and throw them, into 
 fast-boiling water slightly salted. When they 
 are done enough to take them up, put them on 
 a dish, pour on them half a pint of nicely- 
 flavoured white sauce, and serve very hot. 
 Mushrooms or trufiles may be added to the 
 sauce if liked. Time to poach the quenelles, 
 about fifteen minutes. Probable cost, veal. 
 Is. Id. per pound. Sufficient for a small dish. 
 
 VEAL QUENELLES (another way). 
 
 Take the fleshy part of veal, cut it into slices, 
 and scrape it with a knife till you have got off 
 all the meat without the sinews. About half a 
 pound of this rasped meat is sufficient for a 
 dish. Boil a calf's udder, either in your stock- 
 pot or in plain water. When it is done and 
 has become cold, trim all the upper part, cut it 
 into small pieces, and pound them in a mortar 
 till they can be rubbed through a sieve. All 
 that part which has thus been strained through 
 the sieve make into a ball of the same size 
 as the meat, which should be also rolled into 
 a. ball ; then make a panada (see Panada). 
 You must have three balls, one of udder, one of 
 meat, and one of panada. 
 
 VEAL, RAGOUT OF. 
 
 Cut some neat slices from a knuckle of veal, 
 season with pepper and salt and dredge with 
 
 flour, and fry in butter until of a pale brown. 
 Then put them into a saucepan with a pint of 
 hot, rich white stock, and simmer very gently 
 for two hours. Take out the meat, and thicken 
 the gravy. Add a table-spoonful of tomato 
 sauce, the same of ketchup, and the juice of 
 half a lemon. Give one boil up, put back the 
 meat for a few minutes, and serve hot. 
 
 VEAL ROULADE. 
 
 Bone a breast of veal without cutting the 
 upper meat; beat it well with a rolling-pin, 
 then mix the following ingredients. Half a 
 pound each of lean ham and bacon passed 
 through a mincing machine, a chopped shallot, 
 a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, the same 
 of capers, a pinch each of winter savory, grated 
 lemon-peel, and nutmeg, a tea-spoonful of salt, 
 half a tea-spoonful of pepper, the same of 
 thyme, a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, 
 a pickled gherkin in strips, and the beaten yolks 
 of three eggs. Spread this forcemeat over the 
 veal, and roll the breast up sausage-shape, tie 
 it with tape, and brush it over with clarified 
 butter ; then lay it in a stewpan with hot butter 
 until it is delicately browned. Pour in a gill 
 each of veal stock and milk, cover with buttered 
 paper, and cook gently for about three hours. 
 Leave until cold, unbind, glaze, and serve in 
 slices as a breakfast dish. 
 
 VEAL RISSOLES. 
 
 Take about three-quarters of a pound of cold 
 roast veal, free from skin, gristle, and fat, and 
 a, quarter of a pound of ham or bacon. Cut the 
 meat into slices, then mince very finely. Mix 
 with the meat half a tea-spoonful of salt, half a 
 tea-spoonful of pepper, the eighth part of a nut- 
 meg, grated, a dessert-spoonful of chopped 
 parsley, and three table - spoonfuls of grated 
 bread-crumbs. Mix these ingredients thor- 
 oughly, and bind them together with the yolk 
 of an egg beaten up with a little cream, milk, 
 or strong, unsalted gravy. Form the paste into 
 balls the size of a small walnut. Flour the balls, 
 then dip them into beaten egg and bread- 
 crumbs ; let them stand an hour, then dip them 
 in again. Fry them in plenty of hot fat till 
 they are lightly browned all over. Drain them, 
 serve on a hot dish with good gravy poured 
 round but not upon them, and place fried 
 rashers of bacon round them. Garnish with 
 sliced lemon and parsley. Time to fry the 
 rissoles, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 
 6d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for 
 three or four persons. 
 VEAL RISSOLES (another way). 
 
 Take some cold veal, a little cold ham, some 
 parsley, a small quantity of thyme, a little 
 lemon-peel, and one anchovy ; chop them all 
 very small, and mix them with a few bread- 
 crumbs, pepper, salt, mace, and nutmeg to taste. 
 Wet the mixture with an egg, and form it into 
 little balls or pyramids; dip these in egg, 
 and roll them in bread-crumbs ; fry them brown, 
 and serve with a good beef gravy in the dish. 
 Beef may be done in the same way. 
 
 VEAL RISSOLES, GRAVY FOR. 
 
 Put into a saucepan the veal bones broken 
 up small, with the trimmings and any other 
 bones that are to be had, together with a slice of 
 
VEA 
 
 1002 
 
 VBA 
 
 fresh butter and a large onion finely minced. 
 Shake the saucepan over the fire till the onion 
 is lightly browned, then pour in as much thin 
 flour and water as will barely cover the con- 
 tents. Add a bunch of parsley, a blade of mace, 
 an inch of lemon-rind, six or eight peppercorns, 
 and a little sugar browning; cover the sauce- 
 pan closely, and let its contents simmer gently 
 until the stock is strong and pleasantly 
 flavoured. Strain and cool it, then clear it 
 from fat. Add a dessert-spoonful of ketchup, 
 two table-spoonfuls of cream, and also a little 
 popper and salt. Let it boil up, and it will be 
 ready for serving. Time, about an hour and a 
 half to simmer the gravy. 
 
 VEAL, ROAST. 
 
 Veal requires to be roasted carefully if it is 
 to be nicely browned. It is always best to 
 fasten a sheet of oiled or buttered paper over 
 the joint. Hang it close to a clear fire, and at 
 the end of twenty minutes draw it back and let 
 it roast slowly till done through. Baste with 
 good dripping every quarter of an hour. 
 Twenty minutes before it is taken up remove 
 the paper, dredge a little flour over -the joint, 
 and baste with fresh butter melted for the pur- 
 pose in a spoon. Sprinkle a little salt over it 
 five minutes before serving. Those joints which 
 are not stuffed should have forcemeat balls sent 
 to table with them. Ham, bacon, tongue, or 
 pickled pork should accompany roast veal. A 
 little brown gravy should be poured over the 
 joint, and a little more served in the tureen. 
 
 VEAL ROAST (k la Languedocienne). 
 
 Roast a joint of veal in the usual way, and 
 baste liberally with good dripping. Half an hour 
 before taking it up, baste with a mixture of 
 oil and vinegar in which two anchovies and five 
 or six peppercorns have been infused. When 
 the veal is to be served, skim the gravy, and 
 pour it round the joint in the dish. 
 
 VEAL, ROAST, SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Brown sauce is generally served with roast 
 veal (see Veal, Geavt fob), but clear brown 
 gravy, melted butter coloured with ketchup, 
 tomato, sorrel sauce, and bechamel are also 
 served with it. Or a sauce may be prepared as 
 follows. Mince an anchovy, and boil it with a 
 minced shallot in good stock till the anchovy 
 is dissolved. Strain the liquor, stir into it a 
 dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice and a glassful 
 of port, let it boil, then mix it with the gravy 
 in the pan. Time, about twenty minutes to 
 simmer the gravy. 
 
 VEAL ROLL, BAKED. 
 
 Mince finely from two to three pounds of un- 
 cooked lean' veal and one pound of streaky 
 bacon. Add to the mince a salt-spoonful of 
 white pepper, the grated rind of a small lemon, 
 half a tea-spoonful of minced thyme, a minced- 
 shallot, an ounce of finely-grated bread-crumbs, 
 and a little salt — the quantity to be regulated 
 by the quality of the bacon. Form the mince 
 iiito a roll, cover with oiled paper, and wrap it 
 in coarse paste made of flour and water. Bake 
 in a moderate oven. When done take the meat 
 out, and serve it with good brown sauce poured 
 round it (see Veal Fobcemeat, Roll op). Time 
 to bake the roll, about two hours. 
 
 VEAL ROLLS, FRIED. 
 
 Take the remains of cold roast veal. Cut 
 from it half a dozen slices of lean meat half an 
 inch thick. Brush these over with egg, cover 
 with a thin slice of fat bacon, egg them again, 
 spread forcemeat upon them, and roll them 
 tightly. Skewer securely, egg and bread-crumb 
 the rolls, and fry them till brightly browned. 
 Serve on a hot dish, and pour mushroom sauce 
 or brown gravy over them. Garnish with sliced 
 lemon and parsley. Time to fry the rolls, ten 
 to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive 
 of the cold meat. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 VEAL SAUSAGES. 
 
 Take equal quantities of lean veal and fat 
 bacon. Mince finely, and to every pound of 
 meat add a tea-spoonful of minced sage and a 
 little pepper and salt. Mix these ingredients 
 thoroughly. Bind the mixture together with 
 yolk of egg, and form it into rolls or flat cakes, 
 and fry or bake these in the usual way. Two 
 or three anchovies may be added to the mince 
 if approved. 
 
 VEAL SAUSAGES, WITH PORK. 
 
 Take equal quantities of veal and pork. 
 Mince them, first separately and afterwards to- 
 gether, and with them half their weight in beef 
 suet free from skin and fibre. With every pound 
 of meat put a tea-spoonful of powdered sage, 
 and season the mixture rather highly with 
 pepper and salt. Clean and fill the skins in the 
 usual way, and the sausages are made. If they 
 are to be used immediately, a little crumb of 
 bread soaked in water may be beaten up with 
 the other items. 
 VEAL SCALLOPS, FRIED. 
 
 Take about two pounds of veal from the fillet. 
 Trim away the fat, gristle, and skin, and cut 
 the lean into rounds half an inch thick and the 
 size of a crown piece. Flatten these with the 
 cutlet-bat, and season them with a little pepper 
 and salt. Butter the frying-pan thickly, put in 
 the scallops side by side, and fry them till 
 brightly browned on both sides. Take them up, 
 and keep them hot in the oven till the sauce is 
 ready. Dredge a table-spoonful of flour into the 
 fat in the frying-pan, stir for a minute, and 
 moisten the paste with three-quarters of a pint 
 of stock. Let it boil, and pour into it the gravy 
 which has come from the scallops. Stir into the 
 sauce a table - spoonful of chopped parsley. 
 Take it from the fire, dissolve a slice of fresh 
 butter in it, pour it over the veal, and serve. 
 Time, eight to ten minutes to fry the scallops. 
 VEAL, SCALLOPS OF, COLD. 
 
 Mince the meat very small, and set it over the 
 fire for a few minutes with some nutmeg, pepper, 
 salt, and a little cream ; then put it into the 
 scallop-shells, and fill them up with crumbs of 
 bread, over which put some bits of butter, and 
 brown the scallops before the fire. 
 
 VEAL SCALLOPS, WHITE. 
 
 Prepare the scallops as in the recipe Veal 
 Scallops, FEtED, and fry them in clarified 
 butter, taking care that though thoroughly 
 cooked they do not acquire any colour. Drain 
 them, arrange them in a circle on a dish, pour 
 good white sauce round them, and put cooked" 
 
VEA 
 
 100.3 
 
 VEA 
 
 celery, cooked artichokes, or fried potatoes in 
 the centre of the dish. 
 
 VEAL, SHOULDER OF. 
 
 Owing, no doubt, to the fact that the meat on 
 this joint is rather coarse, the shoulder of veal 
 is not so highly valued as other portions, and 
 is seldoin served, excepting as a family dish. 
 It is occasionally plainly boiled, but is more 
 frequently stuffed and roasted or braised. The 
 knuckle should always be cut off and used to 
 enrich the stew or to make gravy. Probable 
 coat, if bought whole, SJd. per pound; if cut, 9d. 
 
 VEAL, SHOULDER OF, BOILED. 
 
 Cut off the knuckle, and draw out the bones. 
 Bub the underpart with a cut lemon, and 
 sprinkle over it pepper, salt, and chopped pars- 
 ley. Roll the meat, and skewer it neatly. Put 
 it into a stewpan, cover with milk and water, 
 and let it simmer gently till done enough. Care- 
 fully remove the scum as it rises, or the appear- 
 ance of the dish will be spoilt. Send good onion 
 sauce to table with it, and serve boiled bacon 
 or pickled pork on a separate dish. This dish 
 is by most people considered • insipid. Time, 
 twenty minutes to the pound. Probable cost, 
 8^d. per pound,, if bought whole. 
 
 VEAL, SHOULDER OF, BONED. 
 
 The butcher will, if desired, perform the 
 operation of boning, which is rather troublesome 
 to those not accustomed to it. Lay the joint 
 upon the table, skin downwards. With a sharp 
 knife detach the flesh from the blade^bone first 
 on one side and then on the other, and be 
 especially careful not to pierce the outer skin._ 
 Wben the bone is quite free, loosen it from the 
 socket, and draw it out. The bone of the 
 knuckle is sometimes left in, but when it is 
 necessary to remove it the same rules need to be 
 observed. The knife must be worked close to 
 the bone, and the outer skin must not be 
 pierced. An excellent grill may be made of the 
 blade-bone if a little of the meat is left on it. 
 
 VEAL, SHOULDER OF, BRAISED (to eat cold). 
 
 Take a whole shoulder of veal weighing about 
 nine pounds. Cut off the knuckle, and bone 
 the joint entirely without piercing the skin. 
 Place the joint on the table, skin downwards, 
 trim neatly, cut away some of the meat to make 
 it even, sprinkle salt and pepper upon it, and 
 spread over it a layer two inches and a half 
 thick of good forcemeat made with equal parts 
 of lean veal and fat bacon minced, pounded, 
 and pressed through a sieve, and seasoned with 
 pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg; two or three 
 finely-minced truffles may, if liked, be added to 
 the forcemeat. Fold the shoulder over to en- 
 close the forcemeat, bind it with tape, and roll it 
 in a napkin. Tie the ends securely, and fasten 
 strin*; round the roll to keep it in shape. Place 
 the veal upon a bed of sliced vegetables in a 
 braising-pan ; put with it the bones and trim- 
 mings of the veal, including the knuckle, also 
 two blanched calf's feet, the blanched rind of the 
 bacon which was used for the forcemeat, and 
 a little pepper and salt. Pour over all as much 
 boiling stock as will barely cover the veal, put 
 it on the fire, let it boil up, skim carefully, and 
 simmer gently for four hours. Take it from the 
 fire, but let the meat remain in the liquor till 
 
 cool. Take it up, remove the napkin, tie it in a 
 fresh one, and place upon it a dish with a 
 weight. Let it remain until the next day. Ee- 
 move the napkin, brush the veal over two or 
 three times with liquid glazie, and serve it, 
 garnished with parsley, aspic jelly, etc. This 
 jelly may be made of the liquor in which the 
 shoulder was simmered, strained, freed from 
 fat, and clarified. The calf's feet which were 
 stewed with the veal may be served with sauce 
 on a separate dish (see Call's Foot, 1 la Potj- 
 lette). This is a good dish for a picnic or for 
 a cold collation. Time to simmer the veal, four 
 hours. 
 
 VEAL, SHOULDER OF, STUFFED AND ROASTED. 
 
 Cut the knuckle from a shoulder of veal, draw 
 out the blade-bone, and fill the cavity thus made 
 with good veal forcemeat. If preferred, the 
 blade-bone may be left in, and the forcemeat 
 spread over the part where the knuckle was cut 
 off, and also under the flap. The broad end of 
 the shoulder must then be turned and skewered 
 over the forcemeat. Tie a piece of oiled or 
 greased paper over the joint, hang it tolerably 
 near a clear fire, and at the end of twenty 
 minutes draw it back and roast it gently until 
 done enough. Baste every quarter of an hour. 
 Twenty minutes before it is taken up remove 
 the paper, dredge the joint with flour, and baste 
 till it is nicely browned. Place it on a dish, 
 pour good brown sauce round it, and serve with 
 a cut lemon on a plate. Send ham or bacon to 
 table with it. Time to roast a shoulder of veal, 
 three hours to three hours and a half. Probable 
 cost, SJd. per pound, if bought whole. 
 
 VEAL, SHOULDER OF, STUFFED AND STEWED. 
 
 Remove the blade-bone from a shoulder of 
 veal. Season the inside with salt, cayenne, and 
 grated nutmeg, sprinkle over it minced savoury 
 herbs (such as parsley and chives), together with 
 a few mushrooms, and spread over these thin 
 slices of ham or bacon. Roll the veal, and bind 
 it tightly with tape. Put it, in a saucepan which 
 will just hold it, over a clear fire with a slice of 
 butter or a piece of dripping, and turn it about 
 till lightly browned all over, or, if preferred, 
 roast it for an hour and a half. Take it up, put 
 it into a deep dish, cover with good stock, and 
 add two onions, a sliced carrot, a bunch of pars- 
 ley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a blade of 
 m.ace, and a little pepper and salt. Stew the 
 veal very gently in a moderate oven till it is 
 so tender that a skewer will pierce it easily. 
 Strain and skim the gravy, and thicken a portion 
 of it with a little brown thickening. Place the 
 veal on a dish, pour the sauce over, and garnish 
 with sliced lemon and parsley. Stewed mush- 
 rooms, green peas, and various kinds of dressed 
 vegetables may be served with this dish. Some 
 cooks, instead of first browning the meat, put it 
 at once into a dish, pour stock over it, surround 
 it with herbs, onions, carrots, etc., then cover 
 the dish with a coarse paste of flour and water, 
 and bake the veal in a moderate oven. Though 
 the taste of the veal thus cooked is excellent, 
 its appearance is not so good as when it is 
 browned as above. Time to bake the veal: a 
 shoulder which weighs ten pounds before it is 
 boned will need five hours. Probable cost, 8Jd. 
 per pound. 
 
VEA 
 
 1004 
 
 VEA 
 
 VEAL SOUP. 
 
 Take two pounds of the knuckle of veal. 
 Divide it into three or four pieces, and put 
 these into a stewpan with any bones or trim- 
 mings of veal or poultry that may be at hand, 
 and add a quarter of a pound of lean ham, 
 a few outer sticks of celery, an onion with a 
 clove stuck into it, a small blade of mace, six 
 or eight peppercorns, a little salt, and two table- 
 spoonfuls of rice. Pour over these ingredients 
 about five pints of cold stock or water, and let 
 the soup simmer gently from three to four hours. 
 Carefully remove the scum as it rises. Strain the 
 stock, season and flavour as much of it as may 
 be required for table with salt, white pepper, 
 lemon-juice, and pounded mace, and thicken 
 with white thickening. If preferred, this soup 
 may be served with the boiled rice in it, and 
 with sippets or forcemeat balls. The veal may 
 be cut into neat pieces, and served with parsley 
 and butter or egg sauce. 
 VEAL SOUP (a German recipe). 
 
 Should the breast of veal be chosen, allow one 
 pound to every quart of water; in the case of 
 knuckle, of veal, allow two pounds to the quart. 
 Let the water come slowly to the simmering 
 point, add salt, and skim well; continue sim- 
 mering for at least two hours. Add rice, sago, 
 or klosse to give the soup substance. Ten 
 minutes before sending to table, add, in small 
 pieces, cauliflower, scorzonera, or asparagus, 
 previously cooked. Finely-minced chives may 
 be thrown in the last thing, or an onion may be 
 boiled in the soup, and taken out before the 
 other vegetable is added. 
 
 VEAL SOUP (a plain family dish). 
 
 Take about four pounds of the knuckle of 
 veal, and cut it into five or six pieces, sawing 
 through the bones neatly. Put these in a stew- 
 pan, pour over them as much cold water as will 
 freely cover them, and let the liquor boil. Skim 
 carefully, draw it to the side, and let it simmer 
 for an hour. Throw into it five or six tur- 
 nips, two onions, and a few outer sticks of 
 celery, and let it simmer gently for another 
 hour. Mix a table-spoonful of flour or ground 
 rice to a smooth paste with cold water, stir a 
 little of the boiling liquor into it, and add this 
 to the rest. Let it boil a short time longer. 
 Halt an hour before the soup is to be served 
 throw into it a pinch of powdered mushrooms, 
 and six or eight sliced potatoes; ten or fifteen 
 minutes before it is served put in half a dozen 
 small dumplings. Add pepper and salt to taste. 
 Serve the veal on a dish with the dumplings and 
 vegetables round it, and send the soup to table 
 in a tureen. If liked, a little sugar browning 
 may be added to the soup to colour it. Time, 
 three hours to simmer the soup. Probable cost, 
 2s. 8d. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. 
 
 VEAL SOUP, WITH RICE OR FORCEMEAT 
 BALLS. 
 
 The veal is to be blanched in the usual way, 
 but the water in which it has been seethed is not 
 to be thrown away, as it contains some of the 
 strength of the meat; but take out the meat, 
 clean it, and lay it in cold water to become 
 perfectly white. Then through a sieve pass 
 the water used in the boiling, pour it over the 
 veal, and boil the whole together. Having 
 
 clarified the liquor by skimming, add a piece 
 of butter, some salt, and half a lemon (which 
 tastes excellently with rice); on serving, beat 
 eggs into the liquor, to which add rice mixed 
 with a piece of butter, and with mace grated 
 over it : it makes a very beautiful strong soup. 
 When forcemeat balls arc used instead of the 
 rice, they should be boiled in a basin, and 
 added to the soup, along with the meat and 
 vegetable roots ; the soup should be beaten up 
 with eggs (one to each quart), and nutmeg 
 should be grated over it as in the other case. 
 
 VEAL STEW. 
 
 Take about four pounds of veal, the chump 
 end of the loin, or part of the leg, or a portion 
 of the breast from which the bones have been 
 removed will answer excellently for the purpose. 
 Cut it into neat pieces about two inches square, 
 or, if preferred, let it remain whole. Eub it 
 over with butter, then put it into a stewpan 
 with two moderate-sized onions thinly sliced, 
 and turn it about over a clear fire till it is 
 brightly browned. Dredge flour upon it, put 
 with it the juice and thin rind of half a lemon, 
 a lump of^ugar, and a little pepper and salt, 
 and then cover with some nicely-flavoured veal 
 gravy. Cover the saucepan closely, and let its 
 contents stew very gently till the meat is tender 
 without being too much cooked. Pour most of 
 the gravy into a clean saucepan, thicken it with 
 a tea-spoonful of brown thickening, or with a 
 table-spoonful of flour mixed smoothly with a 
 little cold water, and a tea-spoonful of sugar 
 browning. .Add a dessert-spoonful of ketchup, 
 half a glassful of sherry, and a few stewed 
 mushrooms if these are to be had. Put the meat 
 into the thickened gravy, let it get quite hot, 
 then serve on a hot dish with the gravy poured 
 over it. Fresh or pickled cucumber may ac- 
 company this dish. The gravy may be made by 
 stewing the bones and trimmings of the veal for 
 an hour or more in a quart of water with a 
 bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a blade of 
 mace, and six or eight peppercorns. Time to 
 stew the veal, one hour and a half to two hours. 
 Probable cost, 4s. lOd., exclusive of the wine. 
 
 VEAL STEW, PIQUANT. 
 
 Take two pounds of lean veal from the fillet. 
 Cut it into pieces half an inch square, season 
 with salt and pepper, dredge them with flour, 
 and fry in butter till lightly browned. Fry with 
 them a moderate-sized cucumber sliced and 
 floured, a quarter of a pint of green gooseberries 
 opened and seeded, a shredded lettuce, and a few 
 onions, if liked. Whilst they are being fried 
 move the vegetables about to keep them from 
 burning. Lift the ingredients into a saucepan, 
 pour over them gradually as much boiling stock 
 or water as will barely cover them. Let them 
 simmer gently till the meat is tender. Serve 
 very hot. Time to stew the veal, etc., about 
 an hour. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for 
 four or flve persons. 
 
 VEAL STEW, WITH GREEN PEAS. 
 
 Stew the veal as before. Add to the other in- 
 gredients a pint or more of freshly-shelled green 
 peas. Let the veal stew till it is three-parts 
 cooked, put in with it a lettuce finely shredded, 
 and let the meat stew half an hour after this is 
 added. Thicken the gravy, and serve the veal 
 
VFA 
 
 1005 
 
 VEA 
 
 on a hot dish with the gravy and peas poured 
 over it. Time, about two hours. 
 
 VEAL, SUPREME OF. 
 
 Take from a fillet of veal nine or ten slices, 
 about three inches long and an inch and a half 
 wide. Put them on a buttered tin, sprinkle 
 them with lemon-juice and a spoonful of white 
 wine, then pour a gill of white veal stock over, 
 and cook, covered, in a gentle oven for five 
 minutes. Then put a pinch of salt and pepper 
 on each fillet, and cook for a few minutes more. 
 Make a chaudfroid sauce of a gill of thick be- 
 chamel, » gill of aspic, and half a gill of cream ; 
 boiled together until reduced to one-half. Let 
 this sauce get cold; divide it into two, and 
 colour one portion green and the other pink. 
 Mask the slices of veal alternately with the 
 green and pink sauce, and dish them up on a 
 border of aspic, putting some finely-chopped 
 aspic between the fillets where they overlap. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 6d. to 3a. 
 VEAL TEA FOR INFANTS AND INVALIDS. 
 
 Take and cut into small pieces a pound of 
 lean veal, sprinkle a little salt over them, put 
 them into a saucepan, and pour upon them a 
 pint of cold water. Let the liquor boil, and 
 skim carefully, then simmer gently for an 
 hour. Pour out the broth, strain it, and 
 it will be ready for use. To thicken it, mix 
 a tea-spoonful of arrowroot with a table- 
 spoonful of cold water, and stir the boiling tea 
 slowly into this, or boil a spoonful of arrowroot 
 or sago in the liquor a quarter of an hour before 
 using it. A little new milk may be added to 
 the tea occasionally for the sake of variety. 
 Time to simmer the tea, one hour. Probable 
 cost, veal, lid. per pound. The above ingre- 
 dients are sufficient for a breakfast-cupful of tea. 
 
 VEAL TENDONS. 
 
 The tendons of veal are the gristly portions 
 found at the extremity of the bones towards 
 the thick end of a breast of veal'. They are fre- 
 quently cut off (care being taken not to spoil 
 the appearance of the joint), and served on a 
 separate diah as an entree. When the breast of 
 veal is large it is well that this should be done, 
 as they are often lost by being undercooked. 
 They must, of course, be cut off the meat before 
 it is cooked. The place where the tendons be^in 
 and the ribs end is shown by a line of white 
 gristle. 
 VEAL TENDONS (k la Proven^are). 
 
 Take the tendons of a breast of veal, and cut 
 them into pieces two inches square. Lay these 
 in a good-sized saucepan, and pour over them 
 four ounces of salad oil, and add two moderate- 
 sized onions finely minced, a clove of garlic, 
 a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and a little pepper 
 and salt. Put the pan on a slow fire, and 
 place lighted embers on the lid that the cook- 
 ing process may be carried on above as well 
 as below. Stir the preparation frequently, 
 and let it simmer gently till the gristles are 
 tender. Pour in half a pint of stock, boil for 
 five minutes, and without skimming the fat 
 from the gravy. Serve the tendons in a dish 
 with the gravy poured over them. 
 
 VEAL TENDONS, CURRIED. 
 
 Take the tendons from one or two breasts of 
 
 veal, being careful in doing so not to spoil the 
 joints for stewing or roasting. Put them into a 
 deep stewpan with two carrots, two onions (each 
 stuck with a clove), a strip of lemon-rind, a bay- 
 leaf, a bunch of parsley, and a sprig of thyme. 
 Pour over them a pint of good stock, and let 
 them simmer gently till tender. Take them up 
 carefully with a skimmer, pull out any hard 
 parts that may remain, and press the tendons 
 between two dishes till cold. Strain the liquor 
 in which they were stewed, and when it is cool 
 free it from fat. Slice two onions, and fry them 
 in butter with a finely-minced apple. Stir these 
 in a saucepan over the fire till they are soft, 
 rub them through a sieve, and mix with the 
 pulp a dessert-spoonful of curry-paste, a tea- 
 spoonful of curry-powder, and a dessert- 
 spoonful of ground rice. Add the stock 
 gradually, and stir the sauce over the fire till 
 it boils. Cut the tendons into rounds, squares, 
 or diamonds half an inch thick, and about an 
 inch and a half across. Put them into the curry 
 sauce, and let them remain until they are heated 
 through. Dish them alternately with fried 
 rashers of bacon in a circle on a hot dish, and 
 pour the curry sauce over and round them. 
 Send rice boiled for curry to table on a separate 
 dish. Time, four hours to simmer the tendons. 
 Probable cost, uncertain, the tendons being sold 
 with the breast of veal. 
 
 VEAL TENDONS, FRIED. 
 
 Stew the tendons in the usual way, and place 
 them between two dishes till cold. Cut them 
 into slices half an inch thick. Brush them 
 over with beaten egg, dip them into bread- 
 crumbs, and fry them over a slow fire till of a 
 pale brown. Serve very hot. Take half a pint of 
 the sauce in which they were stewed, stir into 
 it two table-spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, 
 two table-spoonfuls of sherry, and the yolk of 
 an egg beaten up with three table-spoonfuls of 
 cream. Stir this sauce over the fire till it begins 
 to thicken, but it must not boil. Arrange the 
 fried tendons in a circle on a hot dish, pour the 
 sauce into the centre, and serve very hot. 
 Sometimes the sauce is thickened with yolk of 
 egg and allowed to get cold, then the sliced 
 tendons are dipped into it, afterwards into 
 bread-crumbs, and fried as before. Time, four 
 hours to simmer the tendons. 
 
 VEAL TENDONS, FRIED (a la Villeroi). 
 
 Stew the tendons in the usual way, and when 
 they are tender put them between two dishes 
 till cold. Cut them into neat slices half an 
 inch thick and about an inch and a half square, 
 and place them in a marinade of equal parts 
 of oil and vinegar, with a sliced onion and a 
 strip of lemon-rind put under them, and a little 
 pepper and salt sprinkled over them. Let them 
 remain in this for three hours. Drain and dry 
 them, dip them in frying batter, and fry till 
 they are brown. Serve in a circle, with tomato 
 sauce in the centre of the dish. Time, four 
 hours to simmer the tendons. 
 VEAL TENDONS, STEWED.. 
 
 Cut the tendons off the breast of veal, leaving 
 the fiap of meat on the ribs, and divide them 
 into pieces six inches long. Wrap these in 
 slices of fat bacon, tie them with twine, and 
 place them in a saucepan on a bed of sliced 
 
VEA 
 
 looe 
 
 VEA 
 
 vegetables, consisting of a carrot, a turnip, an 
 onion, a few outer sticks of celery, a bunch of 
 parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, eight 
 peppercorns, three cloves, a blade of mace, a 
 strip of lemon-rind, and a little salt. Pour 
 over them as much stock or water as will cover 
 them, and let them simmer gently till they 
 look almost transparent and are so tender that 
 they can be pierced easily with a skewer. Take 
 them up carefully, put them between two dishes, 
 and leave them till cold. Strain the gravy in 
 which they were simmered, remove the fat 
 from it, and boil it till considerably reduced. 
 Trim the tendons, heat them in their own 
 gravy, glaze them with it^ dish them in a circle, 
 pour a little of the gravy round them, and send 
 the rest to table in a tureen. Serve cooked 
 vegetables in the centre of the dish. Green 
 peas, stewed spinach, stewed sorrel, mixed 
 vegetables, and artichoke puree may accom- 
 pany them, also tomato or mushroom sauce. 
 Time to simmer the tendons, four hours. Prob- 
 able cost, uncertain, tendons being usually 
 sold with the breast of veal. 
 
 VEAL TENDONS, STEWED, AND SCREED WITH 
 MIXED VEGETABLES. 
 
 Stew the tendons as before. Warm them in 
 gfravy, glaze them, and serve in a circle on a 
 dish with a mixture of vegetables boiled sepa- 
 rately and heated in a little good white sauce. 
 
 VEAL, TO KEEP. 
 
 As veal when once tainted cannot be re- 
 covered like beef or mutton, it is important 
 that every precaution should be taken to pre- 
 serve it in good condition till it is cooked. Place 
 it therefore in a cool larder, and examine it 
 daily. It should be kept hanging, too, for if 
 it is laid on a dish the pressure alone will cause 
 it to taint. The pipe which runs along the 
 chine of the loin and the kernels from the fat 
 should be removed' as soon as possible. The 
 skirt of the breast, too, should be taken off, 
 and the inside wiped and dredged with flour. 
 The part of the leg which becomes most quickly 
 tainted is that where the udder lies. Tlie skewer 
 should therefore be removed, and that portion 
 examined every day If there is any indication 
 that veal is likely to become tainted, it should 
 be plunged into boiling water, boiled quickly 
 for ten minutes, then dried thoroughly, hung 
 in a cool larder, and cooked as soon as possible. 
 
 VEAL TONGUE, TO PRESERVE. 
 
 ' Trim the tongue, and put it into boiling water 
 for a quarter of an hour. Drain and dry it, 
 take off the skin, and rub the tongue thoroughly 
 with salt which has been mixed with a small 
 proportion of saltpetre and a few savoury herbs 
 chopped small. Put it into an earthen jar, 
 sprinkle a handful of chopped herbs upon it, and 
 lay a weight upon it to keep it under the brine. 
 Keep it in a cool, well-ventilated place, and 
 turn and rub it every day for ten days. Drain 
 and dry it, put it in a large polony-skin pro- 
 perly cleansed, and tie it securely at both ends. 
 If it IS to be smoked, hang it over a small 
 fire of juniper wood, upon which aromatic herbs 
 are occasionally thrown. 
 
 VEAL, VOL-AU-VENT OF, 
 
 Make a vol-au^vent case the size and shape of 
 the dish in which it is to be served, and bake 
 
 in a brisk oven (see Tol-atj-Vent). When done, 
 take out the lid, scrape out the soft pastry, and 
 put it in the oven for a few minutes to dry. 
 Fill carefully with a hot savoury ragout pre- 
 pared as follows. Cut some lean veal into thin 
 slices the size of half a crown. Beat these with 
 a cutlet-bat, and fry them till they are lightly 
 browned. Cover with rich brown thick gravy 
 highly flavoured (see Veal, Gbavy fob), put 
 with them a few fried forcemeat balls, and serve 
 the vol-au-vent on a napkin. Small vol-au- 
 vents may be filled with the savoury preparation 
 recommended for veal patties. 
 
 VEAL, WHOLESOMENESS OF. 
 
 " Veal," says Dr. Graham, looking at the 
 subject from the medical point of view, "is 
 usually considered not at all of a heating 
 nature, and is therefore allowed, perhaps gene- 
 rally by the profession, to patients convalescent 
 from an attack of fever, and to those who have 
 a disposition to bleeding from the lungs or 
 elsewhere, especially with the addition of some 
 acid; but it is, in my opinion, so very indi- 
 gestible an article, and has uniformly so strong 
 a tendency to irritate the stomach and intes- 
 tines, that I wholly proscribe its use wherever 
 persons are not strong and healthy. In all 
 stomach complaints it is peculiarly injurious. 
 The flesh of calves which have been robbed of 
 ■their blood by repeated bleedings, or reared 
 by the hand with milk adulterated with chalk, 
 and confinement in small dark places so as to 
 prevent motion, is unusually depraved." 
 
 VEAL, WITH CUCUMBERS. 
 
 Roast a neck or a loin of veal, or any veal 
 that is left. The leg part is tough and dry, as 
 everyone must know. When cold, cut it into 
 scallops, and put it into the sauce blanquette. 
 Take six fine cucumbers, cut three of them into 
 quarters, pare them about the size of the scal- 
 lops ; then take and mince the parings and some 
 other pieces with a little onion to make a puree. 
 Fry the onions and the trimmings of the cucum- 
 bers together in a little butter; when the 
 cucumbers are q_uite tender, moisten with 
 sauce tournee, and stew them on the corner of 
 the stove for an hour ; skim off the grease, and 
 rub this sauce through a tamis. Put the other 
 whole cucumbers into some sauce tournee, and 
 let them boil till done. Before putting the 
 cucumbers in the sauce, they must be marin- 
 aded in a basin with a little salt and a thimble- 
 ful of white vinegar; let them remain for half 
 an hour, and then drain them in a clean towel, 
 and put them in the sauce, if you have ally; 
 otherwise, put them in a stewpan with a small 
 bit of butter, a bundle of parsley, and a few 
 green onions ; fry them gently, then dredge them 
 with about a spoonful of fine white flour, and 
 moisten with good broth; let that boil for an 
 hour in the corner of the stove, skim all the 
 butter, drain the cucumbers in a hair sieve, and 
 reduce the sauce till it is fit to receive the 
 thickening. When you have no sauce in your 
 larder, make some according to the recipes 
 given for Blanche Sauce or Brown Sauce. 
 
 VEAL, WITH MACARONI. 
 
 Take two pounds of any lean part of veal, 
 chop finely, and season well with pepper and 
 salt. Fry two small onions until brown, and 
 
VEG 
 
 1007 
 
 VEO 
 
 while they are cooking, boil until tender two 
 sticks of macaroni broken into inch lengths. 
 Mix all together, adding a table-spoonful of 
 tomato sauce, and turn the whole into a pie- 
 dish. Cover with bread-crumbs, place some 
 small pieces of butter over, and bake in a 
 moderate oven for an hour. 
 VEAL, WITH CARROTS. 
 
 Cook the carrots till tender, chop them into 
 small pieces, make a pint of parsley sauce, pour 
 over them, and serve with veal cutlets nicely 
 browned. Cost, variable with quantity. 
 VEGETABLE CONSOMME, MADE WITH DRIED 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 Put a pint of white haricot beans and a pint 
 of lentils, previously soaked in water over- 
 night, into a stewpan with an onion, a pinch of 
 salt, a bunch of parsley, and a small sprig of 
 thyme. Pour over these ingredients three quarts 
 of water, then boil and simmer them gently for 
 three hours. Strain the liquor. Fry the vege- 
 tables, and proceed as for Vegetable Con- 
 somme, MADE WITH PeESH VEGETABLES. 
 
 VEGETABLE CO MSOM M £, OR VEGETAB LE GRAVY 
 SOUP, MADE WITH FRESH VEGETABLES. 
 
 Dissolve in a stewpan four ounces of fresh 
 butter. Throw into it two large carrots, two 
 onions, two leeks, a head of celery, and a 
 turnip, all cut small, together with a bunch 
 of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, and a shallot. 
 Cover the pan closely, vat it on the fire, and 
 shake it occasionally till the vegetables are 
 lightly coloured. Put a pint of freshly-shelled 
 green peas into a separate stewpan with three 
 quarts of water. Let them boil, then pour them 
 upon the fried vegetables. Let the liquor boil, 
 'skim till it is quite clear, and put into it a crust 
 of toasted bread, a blade of mace, six allspice, 
 a dozen peppercorns, and a little salt. Cover 
 closely, and simmer gently for two hours or 
 more. Skim off the fat, strain the soup into a 
 bowl, and let it stand in a cool place until clear. 
 When wanted, pour it ofE carefully, not to 
 disturb any sediment that may still remain, 
 boil it, and serve very hot with fried sippets. 
 If it is wished that vegetables should be served 
 in it, cut the red part of a carrot, an onion, a 
 turnip, and about two sticks of celery into thin 
 strips an inch long (for this purpose a vegetable 
 knife, such as shown in the illustration, will be 
 found useful). Put these in a saucepan, cover 
 with cold water, boil for five minutes, and 
 drain them on a sieve. Pour the clear soup into 
 a stewpan, throw in the roots, and simmer 
 gently till they are tender. Add salt and pepper 
 if required. Dried vegetables (gee Vegetables, 
 Dried, fob Julienne and Clear Soups) may 
 be used instead of fresh ones to throw into the 
 soup, and will save some trouble. 
 
 VEGETABLE CURRY. 
 
 A mixture of vegetables may be used for 
 curry. The most suitable are celery, onions, 
 cauliflowers, young cabbages, cucumbers, green 
 peas, French beans, spinach, and sorrel. Mince 
 or slice the vegetables. Dissolve a slice of fresh 
 butter in a stewpan; roll the vegetables in 
 curry-powder, and toss them in the butter till 
 they are half cooked. Pour over them as much 
 cream, or gravy mixed smoothly with curry^ 
 
 powder or paste, as will cover them, and stew 
 till tender. Add a little salt, and serve with 
 lice boiled for curry on a separate dish. A 
 table-spoonful of lemon-juice is generally con- 
 sidered an improvement to this dish. If liked, 
 a small quantity of mashed potatoes or fried 
 onions and an apple rubbed through a sieve 
 may be added to the curry sauce. Shrimps or 
 prawns may also be added if approved. Time 
 altogether, about an hour. 
 
 VEGETABLE CUTTERS. 
 
 By means of these little instruments vege- 
 tables are cut into fanciful shapes, to the great 
 
 vegetable cutter. 
 
 improvement in appearance of those dishes in 
 which vegetables form an important feature. 
 
 VEGETABLE ESSENCES, TO EXTRACT. 
 
 The flavour of various herbs may be extracted 
 as follows. Pick the leaves, and put them in 
 a warm place for an hour or two. Fill a large 
 vride-mouthed bottle with them, and pour upon 
 them wine, brandy, spirits of wine, or vinegar. 
 Let them soak for a fortnight. Strain the 
 liquor, and put it into small bottles for use. 
 
 VEGETABLE FOOD. 
 
 The different articles of nourishment derived 
 from the vegetable kingdom may be divided 
 into five or4,ers — viz. (1) The different sorts of 
 farina, or grain — for example, wheat, barley, 
 oats, and rice; (2) the legumes, or pulse, as 
 peas and beans ; (3) the difilerent kinds of salads 
 and pot-herbs; (4) all the different sorts of 
 roots ; and (5) fruits. For particulars regarding 
 them and their uses, the reader is referred to 
 the aiticles under their respective headings. 
 
 VEGETABLE HACHIS. 
 
 Fry in butter till they are of a pale brown 
 some onions cut into slices, and add any kind 
 of vegetables previously boiled. Chop them up, 
 and stew all together. Stir well over a slow fire, 
 and when about half done add some sliced chil- 
 lies and tomatoes. If the pan be dry, put in a 
 little gravy. Some sorrel or a glassful of vine- 
 gar may be added. Time to stew, half an hour, 
 
 VEGETABLE MARROW. 
 
 The vegetable marrow appears to be merely 
 a variety of the pumpkin. It was brought into 
 Europe from Persia, and is now much cultivated 
 in Britain. It is a hardy plant, and its fruit 
 is of excellent quality, and useful for culinary 
 purposes at almost every stage of its growth. 
 The best known sort is, when fully grown, 
 elliptic in shape, very smooth, and generally 
 about nine inches long and four inches in 
 diameter. There are, however, several other 
 varieties, of different shapes and sizes. 
 
 VEGETABLE MARROW, COOKING OF THE. 
 
 The vegetable marrow may be cooked in a 
 variety of ways, a^id is wholesome and excellent 
 
VEG 
 
 1008 
 
 VEG 
 
 in all. Various recipes are given below. It 
 comes into season towards the end of summer, 
 and even after it is cut if it is hung by the stalk 
 in a cool, dry place it will keep for some weeks. 
 The best marrows are about six inches long. 
 
 VEGETABLE MARROW (au Gratin). 
 
 Butter a fireproof dish thickly and sprinkle 
 it with chopped parsley and onion, add a cover- 
 ing of brown breadcrumbs. Place in the dish 
 several layers of thinly cut marrow, sprinkling 
 each of them with crumbs, grated cheese, and 
 seasoning. Pour in a very little good gravy. 
 Finish with a layer of crumbs and cheese, and 
 a few pieces of butter. Bake in a sharp oven 
 till the marrow feels tender when tested with a 
 skewer. 
 
 VEGETABLE MARROW CUSTARD. 
 
 Eequired : Half a pint of pulp from a young 
 vegetable marrow that has been nicely steamed, 
 the yolks of three eggs, the white of one, two 
 ounces of sugar, half an ounce of butter, a 
 little cream, an ounce of fine breadcrumbs, and 
 some spice to taste. The paste m»y be a 
 medium short. 
 
 The bread should be soaked in enough cream 
 to cover it and added to the other materials ; the 
 butter is best melted and put in with the eggs. 
 Small patty-tins should be used, and lined 
 thinly with the paste, and the custards baked 
 in a moderate oven. 
 
 VEGETABLE MARRROW, FRIED IN BATTER. 
 
 Pare and quarter the marrows, and boil them 
 in the usual way for ten minutes, or until they 
 are three-parts cooked. Drain them, sprinke a 
 little pepper and salt upon them, cut them into 
 slices, dip into frying batter, and fry in hot fat 
 till brightly browned. Lift them on to a dishj 
 sprinkle chopped parsley over them, and serve 
 either alone or as an accompaniment to cooked 
 meat. The frying batter may be made as fol- 
 lows. Put six ounces of flour into a bowl, mix 
 a tea-spoonful of salt with it, and work it into 
 a paste with a quarter of a pint of water. Add 
 a table-spoonful of oil and the well-beaten yolk 
 of one egg, and beat the paste till it is quite 
 smooth. Let the batter stand in a cool place 
 for an hour. A quarter of an hour before it is 
 wanted add the whites of two eggs whisked to 
 a firm froth. 
 
 VEGETABLE MARROW, FRIED IN BATTER 
 
 (another way). 
 Peel two small , marrows and cut them into 
 quarters, carefully removing the seeds. Drop 
 each piece into a good batter (see Battek fob 
 Frying) ; have ready a saucepan of boiling fat, 
 with the frying basket in it, drop in the pieces 
 of marrow and fry them a golden brown ; drain 
 them very carefully, and serve in a very hot 
 dish. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. each. 
 
 VEGETABLE MARROW IN WHITE SAUCE OR 
 GRAVY. 
 
 Boil a large marrow in the usual way. When 
 three-parts cooked, take it up, cut it into 
 squares, place these in a saucepan, and pour 
 over them as much white sauce or thick brown 
 gravy as will cover them. Let them heat gently. 
 Serve in a vegetable-dish with the sauce poured 
 over them. Time, fifteen to twenty-five 
 
 minutes. Probable cost of marrows, 2d. to 6d. 
 each. Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 VEGETABLE MARROW IN WHITE SAUCE 
 
 (another way). 
 Pare and quarter three good-sized vegetable 
 marrows. Remove the seeds, cut the quarters 
 into pieces about two inches long, and shape 
 each piece in a point at the top and flat at the 
 bottom. Boil until tender. Place them stand- 
 ing side by side on a hot dish, pour some good 
 white sauce round them, and serve as hot as 
 possible. Or after boiling, cut them into dice, 
 and heat them up in some good white sauce. 
 Time, about twenty minutes to boil the mar- 
 rows. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost 
 of marrows, 2d. to 6d. each. 
 
 VEGETABLE MARROW MARMALADE. 
 
 Pare and seed any quantity of moderate-sized 
 vegetable marrows, and cut them into thin 
 slices. Weigh them, and allow a pound of loaf 
 sugar, the rind of half a small lemon, chopped 
 small, and a cupful of water to every pound 
 of marrow. Boil the sugar and water to a clear 
 syrup. Put in the marrow, and let it simmer 
 gently for an hour and a half. Be careful that 
 it does not burn. Strip the thick white skin 
 from the lemons, slice them, take away the 
 pips, mix these slices with the marmalade, and 
 let all boil together for a quarter of an hour. 
 Turn the marmalade into jars, and cover these 
 in the usual way. An excellent imitation of 
 preserved ginger may be made with vegetable 
 marrow (see Ginger, Preserved, Imitation or). 
 
 VEGETABLE MARROW PRESERVE. 
 
 Peel the marrows, remove all the seeds, cut 
 the marrows in pieces the size of large plums, 
 boil them with their weight in sugar till the 
 pieces become transparent. No water whatever 
 18 required. Then flavour with ginger and 
 lemon, or ginger or lemon, according to taste. 
 
 VEGETABLE MARROW, PRESERVED. 
 
 Peel the marrows, take away the seeds, and 
 cut the vegetable into small pieces. To every 
 pound of marrow add half a pound of sifted 
 loaf sugar, the rind and ^uice of a lemon, and 
 half an ounce of grated ginger. Put the whole 
 into a basin, and let it stand all night; next 
 day pour the juice into a pan, and let it boil ; 
 then add the vegetable. Boil all together for 
 an hour and a half, or until it becomes thick 
 and transparent. If preferred it may be put 
 into a mould, and the preserve will look very 
 nice when turned out for use. Most vegetables 
 may be prepared in the same way. 
 
 VEGETABLE MARROW SAUCE FOR POULTRY. 
 
 Pare and skin the marrows, and boil them till 
 tender ; then rub them through a sieve. Season , 
 the pulp with salt and cayenne, and thicken 
 either with stock or with cream. Serve the 
 sauce very hot. 
 
 VEGETABLE MARROW SOUP. 
 
 Pare and cut in quarters a large vegetable 
 marrow, and remove from it the seeds. Dissolve 
 a slice of fresh butter in a stewpan, and put in 
 the marrow with a little pepper, salt, and 
 
 f rated nutmeg, and a large lumj) of sugar, 
 hake it over the fire for a few minutes, and 
 moisten with as much stock or water as will 
 
VEG 
 
 1009 
 
 VEG 
 
 cover it. Let it stew gently until tender, and 
 rub it through a fine hair sieve. Put with it 
 as much boiling stock as will make it of the 
 consistency of thick gruel. Add a cupful of 
 boiling cream or milk, and season with pepper 
 and salt. Stir over the fire till quite hot, and 
 serve with fried sippets. The stock may be 
 made from bones, or the liquor in which mut- 
 ton, veal, or poultry has been boiled may be 
 used. 
 
 VEGETABLE MARROW SOUP (another way). 
 
 •Boil five or six small vegetaljle marrows, 
 peeled and each cut into eight pieces, in a quart 
 of good rich veal stock ; put them into the boil- 
 ing stock, and simmer gently three-quarters of 
 an hour. Then beat the pulp through a sieve, 
 and return it with an additional pint of stock, 
 to be made hot together. Season with pepper 
 and salt, and, just before serving the soup, stir 
 in a breakfast-cupful of cream, which should be 
 first made quite hot. Time, one hour. Suf- 
 ficient for seven or eight persons. 
 
 VEGETABLE MARROW SOUP (another way). 
 
 Take two pounds of vegetable marrow peeled 
 and cut into dice about an inch square; put 
 it into a pan with three ounces of salt butter 
 or fat, two tea-spoonfuls of sugar, the same of 
 salt, a little pepper, and half a pint of water. 
 Stew gently until it is quite soft. When in a 
 pulp stir in well two table-spoonfuls of flour ; 
 then add three pints of new milk, or two pints 
 of milk and one of cream, or three pints of 
 stock — but do not mix the stock and milk. 
 Boil for ten minutes, and serve with fried 
 toast cut into small squares. 
 
 VEGETABLE MARROW, SPRING SOUP OF. 
 
 Pare the marrows, cut them into small pieces, 
 and remove the seeds ; weigh, and put the 
 marrow into a saucepan with a piece of bvitter 
 about the size of an egg, and stew it gently 
 until reduced to a pulp. Add boiling 
 stock, a little at a time, in the proportion of a 
 pint of stock to a pound of marrow, weighed 
 before cooking. Add salt, a small lump of 
 sugar, and cayenne, and serve with toasted 
 sippets. Time, about half an hour to simmer 
 the marrows. Probable cost, 4d. per pint. 
 
 VEGETABLE MARROW, STUFFED. 
 
 Peel thinly two moderate-sized marrows ; 
 then cut a thick piece off one end of each, and 
 scoop out the seeds. Press closely into the hol- 
 lows some good pork sausage-meat, or, if pre- 
 ferable, some nicely-seasoned minced beef or 
 mutton. Tie the piece which was cut off into its 
 original position with twine. If there should 
 be any difficulty about scooping out the seeds, 
 the marrows may be divided into halves length- 
 wise, and filled with sausage meat, the pieces 
 may then be pressed closely together, and tied 
 in three or four places with twine. Having 
 thus prepared the marrows, lay them in a sauce- 
 pan, put a, slice of butter upon each, and 
 sprinkle over them a little pepper, salt, cayenne, 
 and grated nutmeg. Pour upon them half a 
 pint of stock, and add a table-spoonful of 
 vinegar. Cover the saucepan closely, and sim- 
 mer the marrows as gently as possible for four 
 hours. Baste frequently with the sauce. Lift 
 them carefully upon a dish, skim the fat from 
 3m 
 
 the sauce, strain it over them, and serve. This 
 dish may be rendered more piquant by rubbing 
 a freshly-cut clove of garlic quickly across the' 
 saucepan before the marrows are put into it, 
 and by adding to the sauce the juice of three 
 or four ripe tomatoes pressed through muslin. 
 Time to stew the marrows, four hours. Prob- 
 able cost, 2d. to 6d. each. 
 
 VEGETABLE MARROWS, BOILED. 
 
 Peel the marrows, free them from seed, cut 
 them into six or eight pieces, and put them into 
 boiling water; let them boil gently till tender. 
 Lift them up carefully with a slicer, put them 
 on toast, pour melted butter or white sauce 
 over them, and serve. No. 2. Put the marrow 
 whole and without skinning it into boiling 
 water. Let it boil until tender. Take it up, 
 halve, pare, and seed it, lay the halves on 
 toast, with the hollow part uppermost, and fill 
 them with "rich melted butter. No. 3. Pare and 
 seed the marrows, divide them into quarters, 
 and the quarters into halves. Trim them neatly. 
 Eub the inside of a saucepan with butter. Lay 
 the pieces of marrow in it, and sprinkle over 
 them a little pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and 
 pounded sugar. Pour upon them half a pint 
 of veal stock, and boil gently till tender. Lift 
 them on to a dish ; add to the gravy the juice 
 of half a lemon and a little piece of butter; 
 pour it over the marrow, and serve. If liked, 
 the marrows may be stewed in milk instead of 
 gravy, and they may be seasoned with pepper, 
 salt, and pounded mace. Time to boil : ten to 
 twenty minutes, if boiled in slices ; if boiled 
 whole, longer, according to size. Probable cost, 
 2d. to 6d. each. 
 
 VEGETABLE MARROWS, BOILED (another way). 
 
 Peel the marrows, halve, and, if very large, 
 quarter them, free them from seeds, and put 
 them into boiling water to simmer gently until 
 tender. Take them up with a slicer, drain them, 
 and serve upon toast. Send melted butter in 
 a tureen to table with them, or, failing this, a 
 little fresh butter. Time : young marrows, 
 fifteen to twenty minutes ; old marrows, three- 
 quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 2d. to 6d. 
 each. Sufficient, a good-sized marrow for three 
 or four persons. , 
 
 VEGETABLE MARROWS, FRIED. 
 
 juJoil the marrows in the ordinary way till 
 they are tender but quite firm. Let them get 
 cold, and cut them into slices. Brush them over 
 with egg, dip in finely-grated bread-crumbs, and 
 fry till they are lightly browned. Serve very 
 hot. The remains of cooked marrow may be 
 served in this way. 
 
 VEGETABLE MARROWS, MARINADED AND 
 STEWED. 
 
 Take three good-sized marrows; pare, seed, 
 and quarter them, sprinkle pepper and salt 
 over them, and pour upon them a quarter of a 
 pint of vinegar and two table-spoonfuls of Lucca 
 oil. Let them lie in this marinade for half 
 an hour. Drain them, put them into a stewpan, 
 cover with good brown gravy, and stew them 
 gently until tender. Lift them up carefully 
 with a slicer, place them on a hot dish, pour the 
 gravy over them, and serve. Time to stew the 
 marrows, about twenty minutes. 
 
VEG 
 
 1010 
 
 VEG 
 
 VEGETABLE MARROWS, MASHED. 
 
 Boil two good-sized vegetable marrows in 
 water till tender (see Veoetablb Mabrows, 
 Boiled). Take them up, drain them, turn them 
 into a bowl, and mash them with a wooden 
 spoon. Heat them in a saucepan with a piece 
 of melted butter the size of a walnut and a 
 little pepper and salt. Marrows cooked thus 
 are excellent served piled high in the centre of 
 a dish of cutlets. 
 
 VEGETABLE PATTIES. 
 
 Prepare a macedoine of vegetables (see Vege- 
 tables, Mackdoine of); moisten these with 
 nicely-flavoured white sauce, and put a small 
 quantity into ready baked patty-cases (see Pat- 
 ties, Pbeparation op). Serve on a neatly- 
 folded napkin. 
 
 VEGETABLE PIE. 
 
 Scald some Windsor beans. Cut into small 
 neat pieces some young carrots, turnips, arti- 
 choke bottoms, lettuces, mushrooms, celery, and 
 parsley, with green peas. Onions and a small 
 quantity of spinach may be added if liked, but 
 any of these may be omitted. The proportions 
 should be regulated by taste and convenience. 
 Partially stew the vegetables in gravy, and 
 season with pepper and salt. Trim the edges of 
 a dish with pastry, put in the vegetables, 
 pour the gravy over them, and place the cover 
 on the top. Bake the pie in a moderate oven. 
 If a maigre dish is wanted, cream, or milk 
 slightly thickened with flour and butter, may 
 be used instead of gravy. 
 
 VEGETABLE PUDDING, ECONOMICAL AND 
 GOOD. 
 
 Shred six ounces of good beef suet very flnely. 
 Mix with it half a pound of the inside of baked 
 potatoes, and add half a pound of the red part 
 of carrots finely scraped, two ounces of candied 
 peel finely shredded, four table-spoonfuls of 
 moist sugar, and a little salt. Mix these ingre- 
 dients thoroughly, and moisten with one well- 
 beaten egg. Tie the pudding in a cloth, plunge 
 it into boiling water, and boil quickly till done 
 enough. Turn it out carefully, and serve with 
 sweet sauce, to which a little brandy may be 
 added if liked. Time to boil the pudding, two 
 and a half hours. 
 
 VEGETABLE PUREE. 
 
 {See Veqetable Soup, Ptjeee.) 
 
 VEGETABLE RAGOUT. 
 
 Take the remains of cold cooked vegetables 
 of various kinds. Cut them into small pieces, 
 sprinkle a little pepper and salt over them, and 
 moisten them with gravy. Put them into a 
 buttered saucepan, and stir briskly over the 
 fire with a wooden spoon till they are quite 
 hot. Serve in a vegetable dish. Time, about 
 ten minutes to heat the vegetables. 
 
 VEGETABLE SALADS. 
 
 The remains of cooked vegetables of almost 
 every kind may be advantageously served as a 
 salad. The vegetables should be sliced or 
 minced, according to their nature, seasoned 
 with pepper and salt, and worked lightly to- 
 gether with oil and vinegar, in the proportion 
 of two table-spoonfuls of the former to one of 
 the latter. Vegetable salads should be prepared 
 
 an hour or two before they are wanted, so that 
 the vegetables may become thoroughly impreg- 
 nated with the sauce. By way of variety, cold 
 meat or fish may be introduced; and hard- 
 boiled eggs, sliced beetroot, etc., may be used 
 for garnish. 
 
 VEGETABLE SAUCE (Jus Maigre de Racines). 
 
 Put in a saucepan a piece of butter or a little 
 oil, a carrot, a turnip, and an onion, all cut into 
 dice, and two heads of celery. Stir the vege- 
 tables well over the fire with a wooden spoon, 
 and when they are properly browned moisten 
 with pea-soup or with boiling water; season 
 with a little salt, let the sauce boil for a few 
 minutes, and pass it through a sieve. 
 
 VEGETABLE SAUSAGES. 
 
 Mix together six ounces mashed potatoes, six 
 ounces bread-crumbs, three ounces bruised 
 tomatoes, two well-beaten eggs, three ounces 
 butter, one ounce chopped parsley, quarter 
 pound cooked butter beans or lentils, or a 
 mixture of each, and fashion into sausage 
 shapes. Fry in boiling fat. This makes a 
 very nice breakfast dish or a supper savoury. 
 Cost, about 6d. 
 
 VEGETABLE SOUP. 
 
 Take a quart of old green peas, and boil them 
 in a gallon of soft water with a small bundle 
 of mint, sweet herbs, mace, cloves, and white 
 pepper. Boil the peas till quite soft, then 
 strain and pulp them through a coarse sieve. 
 Put the soup into a stewpan with four heads of 
 celery, the pulped peas, a small handful of 
 spinach, one lettuce, two leeks cut small, a 
 quart of young peas, and a little salt. Stew 
 the whole gently until only two quarts of the 
 liquid remain, and the celery has become quite 
 tender. Add a good lump of butter rolled in 
 flour about a quarter of an hour before the 
 stewpan is removed from the fire. 
 VEGETABLE SOUP (angther way). 
 
 Put one onion cut in pieces into a saucepan 
 with three ounces of butter, and brown it ; then 
 add finely-shredded turnips, parsnips, leeks, car- 
 rots (also a white carrot, if procurable), green 
 celery, a, little sorrel, one small potato, and a 
 few French beans and green peas, all of which 
 are to be tossed and browned in the butter, 
 with sufficient quantities of salt and pepper. 
 Put in a little water or stock, crush the vege- 
 tables slightly, then fill up with more water, 
 and let the soup simmer for two hours. A little 
 rice or pearl barley may with advantage be 
 added to the vegetables. Care must be taken 
 not to get the soup of too thick a consistency. 
 
 VEGETABLE SOUP (PUREE). 
 
 Cut into dice four ounces of lean bam, and 
 put it into the bottom of a stewpan. Lay upon 
 it a turnip, a, large carrot, a stick of celery, a 
 leek or an onion, balf a pint of haricot beans, 
 and a pint of split peas. Place on the top of 
 the vegetables a slice of fresh butter : about 
 three ounces will be a sufficient quantity. Let 
 the butter melt; then stir the vegetables over 
 the fire for ten minutes. Pour upon them a, 
 pint of stock made from bones, and add four 
 ounces of Carolina rice. Let the vegetables 
 stew till tender. Hub them through a sieve, 
 and moisten occasionally to soften them. Mix 
 
VEG 
 
 1011 
 
 VEG 
 
 with the pulp an additional quart of stock. 
 Season the puree with salt and cayenne ; boil 
 it again for a short time, skim it, and serve 
 with fried sippets. Time, about two hours. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 VEGETABLE SOUP, SUMMER. 
 
 Take a good quantity of mixed summer vege- 
 tables, such as green peas, lettuces, young 
 onions, turnips and carrots, sorrel and leeks, to 
 which may be added a small bunch of chervil 
 and parsley, a cucumber, etc. Chop the roots 
 into small pieces, and slice the bulbs thinly. 
 Supposing there to be a pint of mixed vege- 
 tables, put them into a stewpan with a, slice of 
 fresh butter, and turn them about with a wooden 
 spoon till they begin to soften, being careful 
 that they are not allowed either to brown or to 
 burn. Pour upon them a quart of veal stock, 
 and season with salt and cayenne and a very 
 small quantity of grated nutmeg. Skim the 
 soup, and simmer gently till the vegetables are 
 all perfectly tender. Stir into it half a pint of 
 boiling cream, and serve with the vegetables in 
 the tureen. If cream cannot be had, a little 
 milk and the yolk of an egg may be vised instead. 
 Boil half a pint of milk, and pour it through a 
 strainer into the soup. When the soup is to 
 be served make the tureen quite hot, and throw 
 into it the yolk of an egg. Beat this briskly 
 with a table-spoonful of the soup out of the 
 saucepan; add to it, gradually, six additional 
 spoonfuls. Pour in the remainder of the soup, 
 which should not be quite at the point of boiling, 
 though thoroughly hot. Serve immediately. 
 Time, one hour and a half. SufScient for five 
 or six persons. 
 
 VEGETABLE SOUP, SUMMER (another way). 
 
 Take a pint of green peas which have grown 
 too old to be boiled in the ordinary way. Put 
 them into a stewpan with a handful of the 
 shells, a large onion sliced, a sprig of mint, and 
 a quart of stock or water. Let them boil till 
 tender, and rub them through a sieve. Dissolve 
 an ounce of butter in another stewpan; throw 
 into this two sliced onions, a large cucumber cut 
 into dice, two lettuces cut small, and half a pint 
 of freshly-shelled young peas. Pour upon the 
 vegetables as much stock as will cover them, and 
 let them boil till tender. Stir in the puree, 
 season the soup with pepper and salt, boil all 
 together, and serve. If necessary, a table- 
 spoonful of spinach or parsley-juice may be 
 added to improve the colour of the soup. 
 
 VEGETABLE SOUP, VEGETABLE STRIPS FOR. 
 
 Cut the carrots into pieces an inch long, and 
 pare these round and round in thin ribands till 
 the yellow part is reached. Cut these ribands 
 into small strips, and the carrots will be ready 
 for the soup. Turnips also may be pared into 
 ribands and cut into strips, and celery may be 
 cut into thin narrow straws. The vegetables 
 should be boiled separately in stock or water 
 until almost tender, and then drained and 
 thrown into the soup. If boiled entirely in the 
 soup, they will, in all probability, make it look 
 cloudy. 
 
 VEGETABLE SOUP, WINTER. 
 
 Cut an onion into thin slices, and fry it in 
 two ounces of butter until it is lightly browned. 
 
 Put with it half a pound of mixed vegetables, 
 such as carrots, turnips, leeks, and celery cut 
 up small, and stir all briskly over the fire with 
 a wooden spoon for ten minutes. Add a quarter 
 of a pound of soaked split peas, a small bunch 
 of sweet herbs, a clove, a little salt and cayenne, 
 and two quarts of stock. Simmer all gently 
 together for two hours. Strain the soup, and 
 serve with toasted sippets. Three or four ripe 
 tomatoes peeled and sliced may, if liked, be 
 stewed with the soup. When a plain family 
 soup is required, fry the vegetables, put the 
 peas with them, and boil till quite tender. Eub 
 them through a sieve or strainer, and mix a 
 spoonful or two of oatmeal with the pulp to 
 form a liquid paste. Stir this into the boiling 
 stock, let it boil for ten minutes, and it will" 
 be ready for use. 
 
 VEGETABLE SOUP, WINTER (another way). 
 
 Allow half a pint of mixed vegetables cut 
 small to every quart of water. Pry the vege- 
 tables in butter or fat till they are lightly 
 browned. Pour upon them the boiling stock, 
 and let them simmer gently till tender. Rub 
 them through a sieve, moisten the pulp with the 
 stock, and add salt and cayenne. Simmer the 
 soup till it is thoroughly hot, and serve with 
 toasted sippets. Carrots, turnips, onions, 
 celery, and sweet herbs are the vegetables best 
 suited for vegetable winter soup. 
 
 VEGETABLE SOUP, WITH MEAT. 
 
 Take cabbage lettuces, chervil, white beet- 
 leaves, celery, leeks, sorrel, and scraped carrot 
 — a good handful of each. Chop these fine, and 
 add cucumbers sliced, young peas, or asparagus. 
 Stew gently in gravy and a few ounces of 
 butter till they become quite tender, then put 
 to them the required quantity of gravy or good 
 broth made of shank of beef or veal and mutton. 
 Give a boil, and serve up hot. 
 
 VEGETABLE STOCK. 
 
 If vegetable stock be required for a soup 
 maigre, proceed as follows. Cut into small 
 pieces a large carrot, an onion, two lettuces, 
 about a dozen of the outer sticks of celery, and 
 a parsnip. Put these into a stewpan with a 
 slice of butter or dripping, cover the stewpan 
 closely, and let its contents sweat till they 
 begin to soften. Pour upon them as much boil- 
 ing water as will entirely cover them, add a 
 little salt and pepper, and let them stew softly 
 til] they are reduced to pulp. Skim and strain 
 the liquor, and put it aside for use. Time, 
 about four hours. 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 Good vegetables, carefully dressed, are whole- 
 some, easy of digestion, and tend to purify the 
 blood. In foreign countries they are frequently 
 served as separate dishes, and constitute a dis- 
 tinctive part of the dinner. Here they are 
 generally served with the meat. Vegetables 
 may be cooked in a variety of ways, and the 
 recipes for preparing them are given under their 
 respective headings. As to general rules, the 
 reader is referred to the Peinciples oi' 
 CooKBEY, page liii. In boiling vegetables, some 
 most important points must not be forgotten, 
 and those are, to boil them exactly the proper 
 time, to take them out of the water the moment 
 
VEG 
 
 1012 
 
 VEG 
 
 they are sufficiently cooked, to drain them, and 
 keep them hot. If underdone, they are indi- 
 gestible ; if overdone, their appearance is spoilt 
 and their flavour lost. On this account it is 
 necessary to calculate as exactly as possible how 
 long they v.-ill take, and when they will be 
 ' needed, so that they may be sufficiently cooked 
 just when they are wanted. These calculations 
 must be regulated by the age, freshness, and 
 size of the vegetables. Summer vegetables are 
 in perfection only when they are freshly gathered 
 and properly matured. There is an exception 
 to this rule, however, artichokes being improved 
 by being kept two or three days. But it is not 
 always that vegetables can be procured in this 
 condition. For advice as to the best way of 
 keeping them, see Vegetables, Keeping op. 
 
 VEGETABLES, BOILING OF. 
 
 Vegetables, after being cleansed with scrupu- 
 lous care, should be put into plenty of fast- 
 boiling water slightly salted. A table-spoonful of 
 salt will be sufficient for half a gallon of water. 
 They should be kept boiling until done enough, 
 and if green should be cooked in an open sauce- 
 pan. Old potatoes and old Jerusalem artichokes 
 should be put into cold water ; young potatoes 
 and young Jerusalem artichokes into boiling 
 water. Dried beans and peas should be put 
 into cold water, and soaked before being boiled. 
 Vegetables should be taken up as soon as they 
 are sufficiently cooked. It underdone, they will 
 be unpalatable and unwholesome ; if overdone, 
 they will be untidy and flavourless. 
 
 VEGETABLES, CHARTREUSE OF. 
 
 Cut three dozen slices of carrot and the same 
 of turnip, make them into designs with >■ vege- 
 table cutter, and blanch them. Boil two dozen 
 button onions, all of a size ; and boil and chop 
 one pound of spinach, one cauliflower, and a 
 dozen asparagus heads. Line a mould with slices 
 of fat bacon, arrange the roots, etc., round the 
 bottom and sides into any pattern that may be 
 fancied, then press the spinach all over them, 
 and fill up with all sorts of chopped cooked 
 vegetables. Set the mould in a pan of hot 
 water, taking care that there is not enough 
 water to boil into the mould. Boil for one hour, 
 and serve with a brown sauce. 
 
 VEGETABLES, COOKING OF. 
 
 Few persons know how to cook vegetables. 
 The rule is simple, and should never be for- 
 gotten. Old potatoes should either be steamed, 
 or be put into plenty of cold water and boiled 
 slowly. New potatoes should be put into plenty 
 of boiling water. With both the water should 
 be drained off when the tubers are tender, and 
 they should finish cooking in their own steam. 
 Green vegetables should be put into fast-boil- 
 ing water. They should be quickly boiled, and 
 the lid should be left off the pan. If they are 
 of good quality they will not need soda — indeed, 
 soda will spoil them. If the water boils from the 
 moment that the vegetable is immersed in it, 
 the albumen is partially coagulated near the 
 surface, and serves to retain the virtue of the 
 vegetable. The reverse is, of course, the rule 
 for making soup, or any dish from which the 
 water will not be drained. By placing the vege- 
 tables in cold water, the albumen is slowly dis- 
 solved, and actually mixes with the water — a 
 
 process most necessary for the production of 
 nutritious soup. 
 
 VEGETABLES, CURRY OF. 
 
 Take half a pound of French beans, one onion, 
 and one apple, all cut small, two ounces of 
 chopped ham, one chilli cut small, one table- 
 spoonful of curry-powder, a quarter of a pint of 
 cocoa-nut milk, and two cardamoms. Put all 
 together into a stewpan, and cook slowly for 
 an hour. When ready to serve, thicken with a 
 little grated cocoa-nut and milk. 
 
 VEGETABLES, CURRY OF (an'other way). 
 
 Take two carrots, two turnips, half a pint of 
 green peas, two potatoes, one onion, an ounce 
 and a half of butter, half a pint of stock, two 
 table-spoonfuls of Empress curry-powder, one 
 lea-spoonful of lemon-juice, one tea-spoonful of 
 salt. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the 
 onion, sliced, and fry for a few minutes; then 
 add the curry-powder and stock mixed together, 
 the salt and the lemon-juice, and boil all to- 
 gether for about five minutes. Have ready the 
 carrots, turnips, and potatoes cut into small 
 pieces and boiled separately, and the peas 
 nicely cooked. Put these vegetables into the 
 curry, and warm them for about five minutes. 
 
 VEGETABLES, DRIED, FOR JULIENNE AND 
 CLEAR SOUPS. 
 
 As vegetables for soup are rather troublesome 
 to cut, especially for those unaccustomed to the 
 work, and as fresh choice vegetables are not 
 always to be had, the cook will find it both con- 
 venient and economical to have at hand a small 
 quantity of dried vegetables, which may be 
 bought at various foreign warehouses. These 
 vegetables are light in weight, and in appear- 
 ance something like chips. They need only to 
 be soaked in cold water for three-quarters of an 
 hour, then put into a saucepan over the fire, 
 still in cold water slightly salted, and boiled like 
 fresh vegetables, llie clear soup should then 
 be poured over them, and the whole boiled to- 
 gether for a quarter of an hour. They will have 
 the fiavour and appearance of fresh turned vege- 
 tables. Probable cost. Is. 6d. per pound. 
 Sufficient, a table-spoonful of dried vegetables 
 for a quart of soup. 
 
 VEGETABLES, FRESH, TREATMENT OF. 
 
 Those who value fresh vegetables and sweet 
 salads will never have them cleaned in the gar- 
 den. Neither the one nor the other should be 
 washed until they are just about to be cooked or 
 eaten. Evffn potatoes lose fiavour quickly after 
 being washed ; so do carrots and turnips ; whilst 
 water will very speedily become tainted in 
 summer when in contact with cauliflowers and 
 cabbages, and thus will destroy their freshness 
 and flavour. The case is still worse with salads. 
 If washed at all, it should be only just before 
 they are dressed, and they should be dried and 
 dressed immediately. Nothing ruins the flavour 
 of vegetables, and renders good salads uneat- 
 able, sooner than water hanging about them. 
 If lettuces are quite clean, they make the best 
 salads unwashed; but if washed, the operation 
 should be done quickly, the water instantly 
 shaken out, and the leaves dried with a clean 
 cloth. The best practice is simply to remove 
 all superfluous earth by scraping or rubbings 
 
VEG 
 
 1013 
 
 VEG 
 
 and all rough tops or leaves by cutting. 
 Enough tender leaves may still be left on cauli- 
 flowers and broccoli to overlap the flowers. 
 Salad should be sent in from the garden with 
 most of the outside leaves and main root on. 
 The tender leaves are easily tainted and injured 
 by exposure, and if the chief root is cut off 
 sharp, much of the juice oozes out of the wound. 
 Where vegetables and salads have to be bought 
 from a greengrocer the conditions are altogether 
 different. Not only washing, but soaking often 
 becomes necessary to restore something like 
 their pristine crispness. 
 
 VEGETABLES, FRIED, MARINADE OF. 
 
 Slice two onions and a carrot, and put them, 
 with a small bunch of savoury herbs, half a 
 blade of mace, and a slice of butter, into a stew- 
 pan. Cover closely, and steam them, shaking 
 the pan occasionally, till the onions turn yellow. 
 Dredge a little flour upon them, and pour over 
 them half a pint of stock and half that quantity 
 of vinegar. Add salt and pepper if the stock is 
 not already seasoned, strain the liquor, and it 
 will be ready for use. 
 
 VEGETABLES, INSECTS CLEARED FROM. 
 
 Put plenty of cold water into a large pan, 
 and add salt in the proportion of a large table- 
 spoonful to two quarts of water. Lay the vege- 
 tables in this, stalk uppermost, and shake them 
 occasionally. This will cause the insects, which 
 hide between the leaves, to fall out and sink 
 to the bottom of the pan. If liked, a small pro- 
 portion of vinegar may be added to the water 
 instead of salt, and this will answer the same 
 purpose. 
 
 VEGETABLES, KEEPING OF, 
 
 When it is necessary to keep vegetables for a 
 day or two, spread them out on a cellar floor or 
 keep them in a perfectly dry cool situation, but 
 not exposed to currents of air. Be careful that 
 each kind of vegetable is kept away from the 
 other kinds, to prevent deterioration in flavour. 
 Examine them daily to ascertain that they are 
 not withering. Carrots, turnips,*beetroot, pars- 
 nips, potatoes, and beans keep best in dry 
 sand or earth in a cellar. Tlie mould which 
 hangs about them should be left upon them, 
 and if any sprouts appear, they should be care- 
 fully removed. Cabbages, if spread out on 
 earth in a cool cellar, will keep good for two or 
 three months. Celery and leeks also may be 
 kept for two or three months in a cellar in boxes 
 filled with earth. The stalk ends of asparagus 
 and cucumbers, on the contrary, should be 
 placed in about two inches of cold water. Store 
 onions should be hung in a cool dry place. 
 Tegetables should not be washed or placed in 
 water until a short time before they are to be 
 used. 
 
 VEGETABLES, MAC^DOINE OF (for garnishing 
 dishes). 
 Take equal quantities of carrots, turnips, 
 green peas, asparagus peas, French beans, 
 Brussels sprouts, and cauliflowers. With a vege- 
 table scoop cut the carrots and turnips into 
 pieces a quarter of an inch square, or turn them 
 into the shapes of olives, filberts, etc. Divide 
 the cauliflowers and French beans into small 
 neat pieces. Cook the vegetables separately in 
 
 plenty of salted water; when done, enough 
 drain them. When the macedoine is wanted. 
 
 cHAUTKbusE 01 \j£OtiAELEs {sec page 1012y. 
 
 put the vegetables and some good white sauce 
 into a saucepan, and serve when quite hot. 
 VEGETABLES, MIXED (second cooking). 
 
 Take various kinds of cold cooked vegetables, 
 cut them small, and mix them together. For a 
 quart of vegetables chop small four moderate- 
 sized onions. Fry them in butter or fat till 
 they begin to turn yellow, then stir the vege- 
 tables into them, and keep stirring till they are 
 quite hot. Season the whole rather highly 
 with white pepper, and add a little salt. When 
 they are half done, put with them four sliced 
 tomatoes, a spoonful or two of good gravy, and a 
 little lemon-juice or chilli vinegar. Serve very 
 hot. Time, about twenty minutes. 
 
 VEGETABLES, MONTHS FOR VARIOUS. 
 
 January. — Asparagus (forced), Jerusalem arti- 
 chokes, beetroot, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, 
 cabbages, carrots, cardoons, celery, chervil, 
 cresses, endive, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, 
 savoys, Scotch kale, spinach, turnips. 
 
 February. — Jerusalem artichokes, asparagus 
 (forced), beetroot, broccoli (purple and white), 
 Brussels sprouts, beans (French or kidney, 
 forced), cabbages, carrots, celery, cardoons, 
 chervil, cresses, cucumbers (forced), endive, 
 kidney beans, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, 
 savoys, spinach, seakale, turnips. 
 
 March. — Artichokes (French), asparagus 
 (forced), beetroot, broccoli (purple and white), 
 Brussels sprouts, beans (French or kidney, 
 forced), cabbages, carrots, celery, chervil, 
 cresses, cucumbers (forced), endive, kidney 
 beans, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, radishes 
 (early), savoys, seakale, spinach, turnips, turnip- 
 tops. 
 
 April. — Artichokes (French), asparagus, beet- 
 root, beans (French or kidney, forced), broccoli, 
 celery, chervil, cucumbers (forced), lettuces 
 (cabbage), parsnips, radishes, young onions, 
 small salad, seakale, spinach, sprouts; turnip- 
 tops. 
 
 May. — Artichokes (French), asparagus, beans 
 (forced), beetroot, cabbages, carrots (young), 
 cauliflowers, chervil, cresses, cucumbers, let- 
 tuces, peas, potatoes (new), radishes, salads, 
 seakale, spinach, turnip-tops, elder-flower, fen- 
 nel, parsley. 
 
 June. — Artichokes, asparagus, beans (French, 
 kidney, and Windsor), beetroot, cabbages, car- 
 rots (young), chervil, cucumbers, cauliflowers, 
 endive, lettuces, onions, parsnips, peas, potar 
 toes, radishes, small salad, seakale, sorrel. 
 
VEG 
 
 1014 
 
 VEG 
 
 epinacli, turnips (young), burnet, chervil, elder- 
 flower, fennel, mint, parsley, tarragon. 
 
 July. — Arttchokes, beetroot, white beet, beans 
 (French, kidney, scarlet runners, or Windsor), 
 cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers, cucumbers, 
 cresses, endive, lettuces,, mushrooms, onions, 
 peas, potatoes, radishes, ■ red cabbages, small 
 salads, salsify, seakale, sorrel, spinach, sprouts, 
 turnips, vegetable marroiys, burnet, chervil, 
 elder-flower, fennel, marjoram, mint, parsley, 
 tarragon, thyme. ^ 
 
 August. — Artichokes, beetroot, beans, Wind- 
 sor beans, cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers, cu- 
 cumbers, cresses, shallots, endive, lettuces, 
 mushrooms, onions (for keeping), peas, potatoes, 
 radishes, red cabbages, seakale, sn^all salads, 
 salsify, sprouts, turnips, vegetable marrows, 
 basil, burnet; sage, savoury, tarragon, thyme. 
 
 September. — Artichokes, Jerusalem artichokes, 
 beans, beetroot, cabbage sprouts, cauliflowers, 
 carrots, celery, endive, shallots, lettuces, leeks, 
 mushrooms, onions (for keeping), peas, potatoes, 
 salads, seakale, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips, vege- 
 table marrows, sage. 
 
 October. — Artichokes, Jerusalem artichokes, 
 beets, broccoli, cabbages, cauliflowers, carrots, 
 celery, cucumbers (late), endive, shallots, let- 
 tuces, leeks, mushrooms, onions (for keeping), 
 potatoes, parsnips, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips, 
 vegetable marrows. 
 
 November. — Jerusalem artichokes, beetroot, 
 broccoli,, cabbages, carrots, celery, cardoons, 
 endive, leeks, onions, parsnips, potatoes, salad, 
 spinach (winter), sprouts, Scotch kale. 
 
 December. — Jerusalem artichokes, beetroot, 
 broccoli, cabbages, carrots, cardoons, celery, 
 leeks, onions, potatoes, parsnips, spinach (win- 
 ter), Scotch kale, turnips. 
 
 VEGETABLES, PRESERVED. 
 
 Tinned vegetables and fruits preserved by the 
 heat process are well worthy of attention. But 
 it is to the French preservers that we look for 
 the best productions in the higher classes. 
 "Beans, celery, spinach, artichokes, asparagus, 
 and especially tomatoes, are so well preserved 
 by the French manufacturers that they lose 
 little or nothing of their flavour, and may be 
 served by good cooks to the most critical com- 
 pany; while for soups, entrees, stews, and also 
 for garnishing the tins of . macedoines (mixed 
 vegetables) are found most useful. But of all 
 the vegetable preserves,. the green peas hold the 
 highest place. The best are preserved without 
 any use of copper, their colour being retained, 
 or rather restored, simply, we believe, by a little 
 spinach-juice. The art of preserving peas has 
 now reached so high a point of excellence, that 
 it is almost impossible to distinguish them from 
 the fresh gathered and fresh cooked vegetables 
 — indeed, just as new peas come in, and during 
 the pod season, those from the tins are con- 
 sumed in enormous quantities at first-class 
 hotels and restaurants in London and all Con- 
 tinental cities, and at the tables of the wealthy 
 classes, without anybody but those who provide 
 them being the wiser. The fraud, if such it 
 may be called, is a very harmless one, and con- 
 fers a benefit on the pea-eaters, who are ensured 
 against a dish of hard, flavourless pellets. 
 American preservers now send us large quan- 
 tities of preserved tomatoes — a vegetable daily 
 
 found in some form or other on every dinner- 
 table. They are perhaps somewhat inferior in 
 flavour to those produced in the South of France, 
 but their cheapness would recommend them. 
 From America also we get tins of ' green corn,' 
 and Indian maize, cooked in' its milky state 
 before it is ripe — a still more indispensable 
 article on American dinner-tables. Green Lima 
 beans are another preserved vegetable sent from 
 America, retailed in one-pound tins at about a 
 shilling, and very excellent they are, but, like 
 the ' green corn,' seldom experimented upon by 
 the English public, being chiefly used by Amer- 
 can residents in this country. No small success 
 has attended the preservation in tins of fruit. 
 The Americans send us yearly hundreds and 
 thousands of tons of the various products of 
 their gardens and orchards. In many parts of 
 America — California, for instance, which seems 
 likely to become the ' garden of the world ' — 
 fruit is a mere drug in the market, the supply 
 of peaches, apricots, and pineapples, to say 
 nothing of what we consider more common 
 fruits, being almost unlimited. They are now 
 seen in most of the shops which deal in such 
 articles, and have obtained that degree of public 
 favour to which their excellence and cheapness 
 entitle them. The Australian colonies are also 
 fast developing their powers of fruit production ; 
 and both the quality and cheapness of their 
 preserves of various kinds which have found 
 their way into our markets commend them to 
 the public." 
 VEGETABLES, PRESERVED, BY DRYING. 
 
 A convenient method of preparing desiccated 
 vegetables, as practised largely in some coun- 
 tries, consists in drying them for a short time, 
 and then exposing them to a slow heat in 
 ovens. When soaked for cooking, peas, roots, 
 potatoes, beets, corn, and other substances 
 swell out and show very little change in their 
 esculent properties. A modification of tihia 
 process consists in placing the substances, after 
 being sun-dried, in paper nags, which are pasted 
 up at the mouth, and then covered with sand, 
 and heated till perfectly crisp, but not burned 
 or materially altered in colour. 
 
 VEGETABLES, SPRING (cooked in the German 
 manner). 
 
 Take a handful of parsley, and the same of 
 sorrel, lettuce, and chervil; pick and wash the 
 vegetables, shred them finely, and put them 
 into a saucepan with a pint and three-quarters 
 of green peas. Pour over them as much good 
 broth as will cover them, season with pepper 
 and salt, and simmer gently for two hours. 
 In a separate saucepan boil three-quarters of a 
 pound of rice in water till tender. Stir the 
 boiled vegetables into this, season with pepper 
 and salt, add a slice of butter, and beat the 
 mixture to a paste. Serve on bread. Time, 
 two hours. 
 VEGETABLES, STEW OF. 
 
 Take two pounds of spinach; pick it, wash 
 it in several waters to free it from ' grit, and 
 mix with it a large handful of parsley picked 
 and chopped small, and two moderate-sized 
 onions, also minced. Put the spinach, etc., 
 into a stewpan, sprinkle a little pepper and salt 
 over it, and add about half a pint of nicely- 
 
VEG 
 
 1015 
 
 VEL 
 
 flavoured stock thickened with flour and butter. 
 Cover the pan closely, and let its contents sim- 
 mer gently till tender. Chop them small, ag[ain 
 heat them over the fire, and serve with broiled 
 ham. 
 VEGETABLES, TO MAKE TENDER. 
 
 When peas, French beans, and similar vege- 
 tables are old, or when the water in which they 
 are to be boiled is hard, a very small piece of 
 soda may be thrown in with them, and this will 
 serve to make them tender and of a good colour. 
 If too much soda is put in, the taste of the 
 vegetables will be entirely spoilt. 
 VELOUTE SAUCE. 
 
 Cut up the remains of a roast fowl, and take 
 one or two bacon-bones or a couple of ounces 
 of lean ham. Butter a saucepan, put in the 
 bones, etc., with a quarter of a pound of veal, 
 and add a small carrot, a small onion, one or 
 two peppercorns, and a little salt and grated 
 nutmeg. Pour over the ingredients as much 
 water as will cover them, and let them simmer 
 very gently till the liquor is strong and good. 
 Strain it, skim well, and free it entirely from 
 fat. Boil it quickly for a short time, thicken 
 with a small spoonful of white thickening, let it 
 simmer by the side of the fire till it has thrown 
 up its grease, and it will be ready for use. A 
 spoonful of gelatine may be used instead of the 
 veal, if liked. Time, two hours to simmer the 
 sauce- Sufficient for a pint of sauce. Probable 
 cost, 9d. 
 VELOUTE SAUCE, MAIGRE. 
 
 Put two pounds of fish into a saucepan with 
 a small onion, a clove, a carrot, a bunch of 
 parsley, » very small sprig of thyme, half a 
 bay-leaf, and a little pepper and salt. Pour 
 upon these ingredients a largje wine-glassful 
 of Sauterne or Chablis, or, failing this, oE fish 
 stock. Cover the saucepan, and let its contents 
 simmer gently for five or six minutes. Add two 
 pints of fish stock, or water and another glassful 
 of wine. Boil the liquor, skim it, and let it 
 simmer until the fish is done enough; Take it 
 up, and strain the liquor. Thicken with white 
 roux as in the last recipe, let it throw up the 
 grease by the side of the fire, strain it, and put 
 it aside for use. Whiting, gurnet, and pike 
 are the fish best suited for this purpose. The 
 heads and bones may be advantageously used 
 for sauce. 
 VELOUTE SAUCE, OR WHITE CULLIS. 
 
 Butter the bottom of a stewpan, and cover it 
 with thin slices of lean ham. Place upon these 
 three pounds of the knuckle of veal and an old 
 hen, if this is to be had, or the bones of a cold 
 roast chicken. Pour in half a pint of stock, 
 and let it boil away till it is reduced to glaze. 
 Draw it back before it has time to acquire any 
 colour, pour upon it seven pints of stock, and 
 add a small onion in which one clove has been 
 stuck, a carrot, a little parsley, half a bay-leaf, 
 a small sprig of thyme, and a little pepper and 
 salt. Let it simmer gently, and skim frequently 
 till the goodness is all drawn from the veal. 
 Strain it, let it get cold, and free it from fat. 
 Make a roux in a stewpan of equal parts of 
 butter and flour. Before it can brown, moisten 
 it with the stock, and add it to the sauce. Stir 
 the sauce over the fire till it boils, and let it 
 
 simmer gently by the side of the fire till it 
 ceases to throw up grease. Skim carefully, 
 strain through a cloth, and the sauce will be 
 ready for use. For veloute sauce made in a 
 large quantity, see Pbinoiples oi' Cookeet, 
 page xxviii. Time, two hours. Probable cost, 
 3s. 6d. for this quantity. 
 VELVET CREAM. 
 
 Dissolve half an ounce of isinglass in a quar- 
 ter of a pint of water. Add a large wine-glass- 
 ful of sherry, a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, 
 and six ounces of lump sugar which have been 
 well rubbed upon the rind of a large fresh 
 lemon. Stir the mixture over the fire until the 
 sugar is entirely dissolved. Let the prepara- 
 tion get cold, and before it begins to stiffen 
 mix with it a pint of cream. Pour it into a 
 mould which has been soaked in cold water. 
 Let it stand all night in a cool place, and turn 
 it out upon a glass dish. Probable cost, 2b. 6d. 
 Sufficient for a pint and a half of cream. 
 
 VELVET CREAM (another way). 
 
 Prepare the velvet cream as in the last recipe. 
 Cut four or five spongecakes into slices, and 
 lay these in a glass dish. If preferred, substi- 
 tute three ounces of macaroons and one ounce 
 of ratafias for the spongecakes. Place round 
 them a little apricot or greengage jam A 
 glassful of sherry may be poured over them or 
 not. Take the cream when it is quite cold, and 
 before it begins to stiffen, and pour it over the 
 sweetmeat. Serve when cold and stiff. Prob- 
 able cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for six persons. 
 
 VELVET CREAM (another way). 
 
 Put a pint and a quarter of milk into a 
 saucepan with a quarter of a pound of loaf 
 sugar, the thin rind of- half a lemon, and an 
 inch of stick cinnamon. Let it simmer till 
 pleasantly flavoured. Put two dessert-spoon- 
 fuls of Oswego into a basin, and mix with it 
 four well-beaten eggs. Strain the milk when it 
 is cool into the eggs, and stir the custard over 
 the fire till it begins to thicken, but it must not 
 boil. Stir it off the fire till it is almost cold, 
 add a few drops of vanilla essence, and pour it 
 into a glass dish over spongecakes or ratafias 
 soaked in sherry and covered with jam. Let it 
 stand in a cool situation three or four hours 
 before serving. Time, about twenty minutes 
 to simmer the milk with the flavouring. Prob.- 
 able cost, 2s. Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 VELVET CREAM MADE WITH GELATINE. 
 
 Soak three-quarters of an ounce of gelatine 
 in a quarter of a pint of water for half an hour. 
 Pour upon it a quarter of a pint ot sherry or 
 raisin wine, and stir it over the fire till dis- 
 solved. If it is preferred, the gelatine may be 
 dissolved in half a pint of wine only, instead 
 of wine and water. Add six ounces of loaf 
 sugar which has been rubbed upon the rind of 
 two fresh lemons to draw out the flavour, to- 
 gether with a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and 
 stir the mixture over the flre till the sugar is 
 dissolved. Pour the liquor into a bowl, and 
 when it is cool mix with it gradually but thor- 
 oughly a pint of thick cream. Pour it into a 
 mould which has been laid in cold water for 
 some time. Serve upon a glass dish. Probable 
 cost, 2s. 2d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
VEN 
 
 1016 
 
 VEN 
 
 VENETIAN BISCUIT. 
 
 Break four eggs, and put the whites upon a 
 plate and the yolks into a basin. Beat the 
 whites, and when they are firm add them to the 
 well-beaten yolks of the eggs, together with 
 half a pound of flour, half a pound of powdered 
 and sifted sugar, a small glassful of brandy, 
 and a pinch of salt. Lastly, work in half a 
 pound of butter melted but not oiled, and beat 
 the mixture with a wooden spoon till the in- 
 gredients are thoroughly blended. Pour the 
 batter a quarter of an inch thick into a baking- 
 dish, and bake in a moderate oven. When it is 
 cold, stamp it into pieces about three inches 
 long and of an oblong shape. Split these in 
 halves, and insert a little jam between them. 
 Press them closely together, and cover half the 
 number with pink icing, and the other half with 
 white icing Dry the icing, and the biscuits 
 will be ready for serving. 
 
 VENETIAN CAKE. 
 
 Blanch, dry thoroughly, and pound to a 
 smooth paste seven ounces ot sweet almond.^ and 
 one ounce of bitter almonds Whilst pounding, 
 add a few drops ot orange-flower water to keep 
 the almonds from oiling Mix a pound of flour 
 with the almonds, and break into the mixture 
 half a pound of firm cool butter. Rub four oi 
 five large lumps ot sugar upon the rind ot a 
 lemon. Crush this to powder, and put with it 
 additional sugar to make up the weight to half 
 a pound. Work all the ingredients to a smooth 
 paste with the well-beaten yolks of three large 
 eggs or four small ones. Roll the paste to the 
 thickness 6t a quarter of an inch, place it on 
 a baking-sheet, and bake m the oven till it is 
 firm, and lightly and equally browned. Take 
 it out, let it get cold, and divide it into six or 
 seven portions of equal size. Spread jam of 
 different colours upon all of these but one. and 
 lay them one upon the other, placing the one 
 without jam upon the top. Ice the top of the 
 cake, and ornament with coloured sugar. By 
 way of variety, instead ot cutting the cake into 
 portions of an equal size, cut a large piece for 
 the bottom, and the remainder gradually 
 smaller and smaller, so that when the slices are 
 placed one upon another a border an inch deep 
 may be left round each. This border may be 
 ornamented with jam of different colours. 
 
 VENETIAN CREAM 
 
 Simmer a pint of milk with four table-spoon- 
 fuls of sugar till the latter is dissolved. Pour 
 it when boiling on the well-beaten yolks of six 
 eggs, and stir constantly over a gentle fire till 
 it begins to thicken, but it must not boil. Stir 
 into it three-quarters of a pint of isinglass 
 which has been dissolved in a gill of water 
 ind cooled, and add a quarter of a pint of thick 
 cream. Mix with the cream half a pound of 
 jam or candied truit of any kind cut small, and 
 stir the preparation until it begins to thicken. 
 If this is not done, the sweetmeats will sink to 
 the bottom Time, three-quarters of an hour 
 to make the cream. Probable cost, 2s. lOd. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 
 VENETIAN CUTLETS. 
 
 Chop finely and separately, then all together, 
 half a pint of mushrooms, two shallots, a 
 little parsley, and a sprig of thyme. Mix them 
 
 thoroughly and stew them for ten minutes over 
 a slow fire in a little butter, with a slice of fat 
 bacon cut into dice. Sprinkle a little pepper 
 over two. pounds of veal cutlets, put them into 
 the saucepan, and cook them gently till quite 
 tender. Add a gill of white stock by degrees 
 while cooking. Draw the saucepan from the 
 fire for a minute or two ; then thicken the sauce 
 with the well-beaten yolks of three eggs mixed 
 with a gill of hot cream. The sauce must not 
 boil after the eggs are added. Before serving, 
 squeeze in the juice of a lemon. The meat will 
 require about an hour's cooking. Add salt to 
 taste when nearly done. Probable cost, 3s. 
 
 VENETIAN FRITTERS. 
 
 Take three dessert-spoonfuls of Carolina rice. 
 Wash, p>ck, and dry it, and put it into a sauce- 
 pan with halt a pint of new milk. Put with it 
 a piece of butter the size of a walnut, let it 
 boil, then simmer gently till it is tender and 
 has absorbed all the milk. Beat it well with a 
 table-spoonful ol powdered sugar and a pinch 
 of salt ; and when cold add a little grated 
 lemon-rind an ounce and a. half of currants, a 
 large apple pared, cored, and chopped small, 
 half a tea-spoonful ot flour, and two well-beaten 
 eggs. Keep the mixture in a cool place till 
 wanted Drop it m spoonfuls into hot fat, and 
 fry these over a gentle flre till they are lightlj 
 browned When they are firm upon one side 
 turn them carefully upon the other. Drain 
 them, and serve on a hot dish with powdered 
 sugar sifted over them. Time to fry the frit- 
 ters, five 01 SIX minutes. Probable cost, 6d. 
 Sufficient for three or four persons. 
 
 VENETIAN PUDDING. 
 
 Make a custard of half a pint of milk, one 
 gill of cream, the yolks of four eggs and the 
 white of one Put it into a jug, and place this 
 in a large saucepan of cold water, which must be 
 put on the fire until the custard thickens, stir- 
 ring it all the time. Take it from the fire, and 
 add a table-spoonful each of brandy and mara- 
 schino. Put a thin layer of pale lemon jelly 
 at the bottom of a mould, and ornament with 
 any pink crystallised fruit, such as sliced cher- 
 ries. Cut two penny spongecakes into slices, 
 spread a little jam between them, and place 
 them in the mould. Add to the custard half an 
 ounce of sheet gelatine, previously dissolved in 
 a little milk. Strain the custard over the cake, 
 and see that it is quite cool or it will melt 
 the jelly. Then set the mould in a cold place 
 until the pudding is firm enough to turn out. 
 Probable cost, 2s. 
 
 VENETIAN SAUCE. 
 
 Put half a pint of white sauce into a sauce- 
 pan, and add a table-spoonful of mushroom- 
 juice. Stir it over the fire for ten minutes, lift 
 it off, and let it cool a little. Beat the yolks 
 ot two eggs in a bowl, and with them a quarter 
 of a pint of cream. Stir a little of the sauce 
 into the mixture, and add it gradually to the 
 rest, together with a little pepper and salt, a 
 pinch of grated nutmeg, half a tea-spoonful of 
 powdered sugar, and a tea-spoonful of lemon- 
 juice. Stir the sauce briskly over the fire for 
 five minutes, and add a table-spoonful of 
 chopped parsley. Pour it into the tureen, stir 
 ii small lump of butter into it, and serve. 
 
VEN 
 
 1017 
 
 VEN 
 
 VENISON. 
 
 There are three kinds of venison known in 
 Great Britain : the stag or red deer, peculiar to 
 Ireland ; the roebuck, known only in the north 
 of Scotland ; and the fallow deer, common in 
 England. Of these the fallow deer is much the 
 best, and when it is well kept and properly 
 dressed it is quite worthy of the high value set 
 upon it. Buck venison, which is in season from 
 June to the end of September, is finer than doe 
 venison, which is in season from October to 
 December. Neither should be dressed at any 
 other time of the year. The haunch is the 
 prime joint, though the neck and shoulder are 
 much approved, and may be dressed in various 
 ways. No meat rec^uires so much care as venison 
 in killing, preserving, and dressing. As soon 
 as it is cut up it should be taken into a cool, 
 dry larder, dried with a cloth, and hung in an 
 airy place. If it is to be kept some time, dry 
 ginger and pepper should be dusted over it to 
 keep off the flies. It should be examined and 
 carefully wiped every day, or twice a day in 
 unfavourable weather, and it should be kept as 
 long as it is possible to preserve it untainted. 
 Excepting in very mild weather, it will keep a 
 fortnight with care. In order to ascertain its 
 condition, run a skewer close to the bone, and 
 from this judge of the sweetness of the venison. 
 If it should inadvertently become musty, first 
 wash it with lukewarm water, and afterwards 
 with lukewarm milk and water, and then dry it 
 perfectly with a cloth. 
 
 VENISON (k la Daube). 
 
 Take about three pounds of meat from the 
 neck, and cut it into neat pieces. Put the rest, 
 bones and trimmings, into an earthen jar which 
 has a closely-fitting lid. Throw in with these 
 eififht ounces of bacon cut up small, a finely- 
 mmced shallot, a pinch of powdered mace, a 
 small lump of sugar, and a little salt and 
 cayenne, and pour over all as much stock as 
 will cover the bones, etc. Put the lid on the 
 jar, and place it in a saucepan of boiling water. 
 Keep the water boiling round it for two hours. , 
 Season the slices of venison with pepper and 
 salt, and fry them in butter till they are brown. 
 Strain the gravy, stir a glassful of port into it, 
 and put it, with the meat, into a clean saupe- 
 pan. Simmer all gently together till the veni- 
 son is done enough. Put the meat on a dish, 
 pour the gravy over and round it, and serve 
 very hot. Send red currant jelly to table as an 
 accompaniment., Time to simmer the meat in 
 the gravy, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost 
 of venison, very uncertain. Sufficient for six 
 or seven persons. 
 
 VENISON AND HARE PIE. 
 
 In making this pie be sure that both the 
 venison and the hare are thoroughly well kept. 
 Take the flesh in one piece from a neck of 
 venison, and cut it to the length of the pie- 
 dish; season with salt, cayenne, and pounded 
 mace. Divide the hare into pieces convenient 
 for serving. Take out the bones, and fill the 
 cavities with good veal forcemeat. Line the 
 edges of a pie-dish with good pastry. Lay the 
 venison in Me centre, and arrange the pieces of 
 hare closely round it. Put forcemeat in the 
 dish to fill up the empty spaces, and lay two or 
 
 three spoonfuls of jellied gravy on the top. 
 Place the cover on the pie, and ornament ac- 
 cording to taste. Bake in a well-heated oven. 
 When done enough, pour into it, through a 
 pointed strainer, a little additional gravy. This 
 gravy may be made as follows. Put the bones 
 and trimmings of the hare and venison into a 
 saucepan with a slice of lean ham, six or eight 
 peppercorns, two cloves, a little salt, and as 
 much stock or water as will cover the ingre- 
 dients. Simmer the liquor till it is pleasantly 
 fiayoured and so strong that it will jelly when 
 cold. Let it cool, clear it entirely from fat, 
 and it will be ready for use. If preferred, the 
 pie may be made entirely of venison. Time to 
 bake the pie, two hours. Probable cost, hare, 
 from 3s. 6d. ; venison, very uncertain. 
 
 VENISON, BEEF POTTED IN IMITATION OF. 
 
 Put eight or ten pounds of lean beef into a 
 deep dish, pour a pint of wine over it, and let 
 it lie for two days, seasoning well with mace, 
 pepper, salt, and a clove of garlic ; then lay it 
 in a closely-covered pot along with the wine — 
 add another glassful if there is not enough — 
 and bake for three hours in a quick oven. When 
 cold, pound the meat to a paste, and pot in 
 the usual way. 
 
 VENISON, BREAST OF, STEWED. 
 
 Cut up the back ribs or the breast of venison 
 into small neat pieces. Flour these, and fry 
 them in butter with three or four sliced onions 
 and a small quantity of bacon cut into dice. 
 When the meat is lightly browned, drain away 
 part of the fat, and pour over the meat a cupful 
 of good stock and a glassful of port or claret, 
 and add a small bunch of sweet herbs, half a 
 tea-spoonful of anchovy, and a little pepper and 
 salt. If the flavour is not objected to, a clove 
 of garlic may be added, or the saucepan may 
 be rubbed once or twice with a freshly-cut clove. 
 Shake the stewpan over a gentle fire till the 
 venison is tender. Thicken the gravy with a 
 little brown thickening, and let it simmer till 
 it has thrown up its grease. Put the meat on 
 a dish, strain and skim the gravy, and pour it 
 round the venison. Garnish with toasted sip- 
 pets. A few stewed mushrooms will be a great 
 improvement to this dish. When venison can- 
 not be had, well-hung four-year-old mutton may 
 be used instead. This stew may be served in a 
 casserole of rice or potatoes. It is an excellent 
 way of dressing venison which is lean and dry. 
 Time to stew the venison, about two hours. 
 Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. 
 
 VENISON, CHOOSING OF. 
 
 The lean of venison should be dark and finely- 
 grained; the fat should be thick, firm, clear, 
 and white. The greater quantity of fat there 
 is the better will be the quality of the meat. 
 Like mutton, venison should have attained a 
 certain age before it is killed, or it will not 
 have acquired its true flavour; still, it ought 
 not to be old. The age of the venison may be 
 known from the cleft of the hoot, which is 
 always left on : if this is small and smooth, the 
 animal is young. 
 
 VENISON CHOPS. 
 
 These may be grilled or broiled in the same 
 way as mutton chops, and sent to table with 
 
VEN 
 
 1018 
 
 VEN 
 
 melted red currant jelly in a hot tureen, or with 
 tomato sauce. Bacon is a favourite accompani- 
 ment, served up on the same dish. They should 
 be served very hot. 
 
 VENISON, COLD, STEWED. 
 
 Take the remains of cold cooked venison; 
 cut the meat into neat slices, and put these 
 aside. Put the bones and trimmings into a 
 saucepan, pour over them as much strong un- 
 seasoned stock (or, failing this, water) as will 
 cover them, and add a bunch of sweet herbs, 
 a little grated nutmeg, and pepper and salt. 
 Let them simmer till the gravy is good. Strain 
 it, thicken with a small lump of brown thick- 
 ening, and put it by the side of the fire to 
 throw up its grease. Skim it, and add a spoon- 
 ful of ketchup, a spoonful of red currant jelly, 
 and a glassful of claret. Put the slices of veni- 
 son into the sauce, and let them get thoroughly 
 hot without boiling. Squeeze the juice of a 
 lemon into the gravy. Put the meat on a dish, 
 pour the gravy over, and garnish with sliced 
 lemon. The remains of cold cooked venison 
 may be converted into an excellent stew soup. 
 Time to stew the bones, about two hours. 
 Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. 
 
 VENISON COLLOPS. 
 
 Take any remains of roast venison, clear them 
 of skin and vein, mince very finely, and mix 
 them with a third as much of minced bacon, a 
 beaten egg or two, a handful of crumbs, salt, 
 pepper, and a little herb seasoning, if liked. 
 Mix these ingredients thoroughly, form apple- 
 sized balls; flatten and dip them in egg, and 
 crumb them or dip them in warmed butter, and 
 then fry of a nice pale brown. 
 
 VENISON COLLOPS, MINCED. 
 
 Mince finely a pound of venison taken from 
 the neck or loin, and season with pepper, salt, 
 and pounded mace. Dissolve an ounce and a 
 half of butter in a saucepan over the fire, stir 
 a dessert-spoonful of flour into it, and when it 
 is quite smooth add a large tea-spoonful of 
 chopped parsley, a pinch of powdered sweet 
 herbs, and a little pepper and salt. A small 
 onion chopped small, or a particle of garlic, 
 may be stirred in also when the flavour is liked. 
 Keep beating the paste over the fire till it is 
 lightly browned, then stir in the minced veni- 
 son, and keep tossing it lightly with a fork till 
 it is quite hot. Moisten gradually with half a 
 cupful of stock, and let the collops simmer for 
 ten minutes. Ketchup, port, tarragon vinegar, 
 lemon-juice, or basil wine may be added if liked. 
 Probable cost of venison, very uncertain, vary- 
 ing with the supply. 
 
 VENISON COLLOPS, SCOTCH. 
 
 Take in slices from the neck or loin as much 
 venison as may be required. Trim neatly, and 
 put them aside. Put the bones and trimmings 
 into a saucepan, cover either with cold stock 
 or water, and let them stew gently till the gravy 
 becomes strong and good. Strain it, thicken 
 with brown thickening, clear it from fat, and 
 season with salt, cayenne, and a small pinch of 
 grated nutmeg. Flavour with strained lemon- 
 juice and a glassful of claret, to which may 
 be added, if liked, a few drops of tarragon, 
 chilli, or shallot vinegar. Fry the collops in 
 
 butter, dish them, and pour the gravy over. By 
 way of variety, vinegar and a small lump of 
 sugar may be stirred into the gravy in the dish, 
 and red currant jelly dissolved in the gravy in 
 the tureen. Time, about two hours to draw the 
 gravy from the bones. Probable cost of venjson, 
 very uncertain. 
 
 VENISON CUTLETS, BROILED. 
 
 Take the cutlets, an inch thick, from a fine, 
 well-hung neck of venison. Trim them neatly 
 without depriving them of their fat. Pepper 
 and salt them, and lay them upon the bars of a 
 gridiron over a clear, gentle fire. Turn them 
 every two minutes to keep in the gravy. Serve 
 on a very hot dish with a small slice of butter 
 under each. Send stewed mushrooms and baked 
 potatoes to table with the chops. Time to 
 broil the cutlets, from twenty to twenty-five 
 minutes. Probable cost, very uncertain. 
 
 VENISON CUTLETS, STEWED. 
 
 Take the cutlets from the neck, an inch thick. 
 Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a stewpan, 
 put in the cutlets, and let them remain until 
 they are lightly and equally browned on both 
 sides. Pour over them as much good beef stock 
 as will barely cover them, and add half a 
 tumblerful of port or claret, a table-spoonful of 
 vinegar, a small spoonful of brown thickening, 
 and a little pepper and salt. Stew the cutlets 
 gently till tender, and skim and strain the 
 gravy. Put the cutlets on a dish, pour the 
 gravy over, and serve very hot. Time to stew 
 the cutlets, t^venty minutes. Probable cost of 
 venison, very uncertain. 
 
 VENISON, FRIED. 
 
 Cut the meat into slices, and make gravy of 
 the bones. Fry the steaks of a light brown, and 
 keep them hot before the fire. Put butter 
 rolled in flour into the pan, and keep stirring 
 it till thick and brown. Put in some finely- 
 powdered sugar, the gravy made of the bones, 
 and some red wine — let the sauce be the thick- 
 ness of cream — squeeze in a lemon ; warm the 
 venison in it, put it in the dish, and pour the 
 sauce over it. Omit the sugar if you choose, and 
 send currant jelly to table with it in a glass. 
 
 VENISON FRY. 
 
 Cleanse the fry, and cut it into neat slices 
 about half an inch thick. Season these with 
 pepper and salt, dredge flour upon them, and fry 
 in hot fat till they are brightly browned and 
 sufficiently cooked. Drain them, put them 
 round a hot dish, place fried parsley in the 
 centre, and send highly-seasoned brown gravy 
 to table in « tureen. Red currant jelly may be 
 served as an accompaniment. Venison fry con- 
 sists of the liver, heart, skirts, melt, etc. Prob- 
 able cost, very uncertain. 
 
 VENISON, GRAVY FOR. 
 
 A strong, unflavoured gravy, seasoned with 
 salt only, is generally served with venison. It 
 may be made as follows. Take the trimmings of 
 the venison ; or, failing these, a pound or two of 
 the scrag end of a neck of mutton cut into chops. 
 Fry these till they are brightly browned on 
 both sides. Pour over them a quart of boiling 
 water, and let the gravy simmer gently till it 
 la reduced one-half. Skim as required, and 
 season with salt. Let it get cold, free it entirely 
 
VEN 
 
 1019 
 
 VEN 
 
 from fat, and serve in a tureen. The meat on 
 the mutton bones may be potted and used as a 
 breakfast relish. For sauces to serve with 
 venison, see Venison, Sauces pop,. Probable 
 cost, very uncertain. 
 
 VENISON, GRAVY FOR (another way). 
 
 Take the scrag end of a neck of mutton, half 
 a pound of liver, the venison trimmings, and 
 a kidney. Cut the meat into small pieces, and 
 fry these in butter till they are slightly 
 browned. Put them into a saucepan, pour the 
 contents of the frying-pan over them, and add 
 a pint and a half of water and a few pepper- 
 corns. Cover the saucepan closely, and stew 
 its contents gently till the gravy is strong 
 and good. Stir occasionally. Strain it into a 
 bowl, and when cold entirely remove the fat. 
 Before serving, boil it, season with salt, add a 
 table-spoonful of port and a little sugar brown- 
 ing, and send the gravy to table in a tureen. 
 Strong, unflavoured gravy is usually served with 
 venison, together with venison sauce. If, how- 
 ever, it is preferred that the gravy should be 
 slightly flavoured, then stew a sliced carrot, a 
 minced shallot, a clove, and a bay-leaf with the 
 other ingredients. When the liver and kidney 
 cannot be procured, three or four mutton chops 
 from the loin may be- used instead. The meat 
 may afterwards be potted or made into rissoles. 
 Time to stew the gravy, about three hours. 
 
 VENISON, HASHED. 
 
 Cut any part of cold roast venison into thin 
 neat slices the third of an inch thick. Do not 
 remove the fat from them. Put the bones and 
 trimmings of the venison into a saucepan with 
 a sliced onion, a little pepper and salt, and as 
 much stock or water as will cover them, and let 
 them stew gently for two hours. Strain the 
 gravy, thicken with a small piece of brown 
 thickening, or, failing this, with an ounce and 
 a half of butter rolled in flour, and clear it from 
 grease. Pepper and flour the pieces of venison. 
 Put them into a clean saucepan, strain over 
 them as much of the gravy as will moisten but 
 not quite cover them, and heat them very gently, 
 shaking the saucepan fre(juently. The gravy 
 must not boil after the venison is put to it. Lay 
 the meat on a hot dish, pour the gravy over, and 
 serve very hot. A dish of plainly-boiled French 
 beans and a little red currant jelly will be 
 welcome accompaniments. If liked, a quarter 
 of a pound of red currant jelly and a glassful of 
 port, or a glassful of claret and a small piece 
 of sugar, may be added to the gravy. When a, 
 very good gravy is required, make it as follows. 
 Dissolve a good slice of fresh butter in a 
 saucepan. Put with it the bones and trimmings 
 of the venison, any mutton, beef, or poultry 
 bones that there may be, half a pound of liver, 
 and a kidney. Add the red part of a small 
 carrot scraped to pulp, a minced shallot, a clove, 
 a bay-leaf, and a little pepper and salt. Shake 
 the saucepan over the fire till the ingredients 
 are brown. Pour on them as much water as 
 will cover them, and let them simmer for three 
 hours. Strain the gravy, thicken lightly with 
 brown thickening, clear it from fat, add a wine- 
 glassful of port, and serve. Time, two to three 
 hours to simmer the gravy; about an hour to 
 simmer the venison in the sauce. 
 
 VENISON, HASHED (another way). 
 
 The venison should be warmed in its own 
 gravy, or in some made without seasoning, and 
 only made hot, not quite boiled. If there is no 
 fat left, cut some slices of mutton fat; set it on 
 -the fire with a little port wine and sugar, sim- 
 mer till almost dry, then put it to the hash, and 
 it will eat as well as the fat of venison. 
 
 VENISON, HAUNCH OF. 
 
 Take a well-hung haunch of venison weighing 
 from eighteen to twenty-five pounds. If it 
 weigh less it will not be fully flavoured. Be sure 
 that it is in good condition. To ensure this it 
 should be hung, as soon as it is brought in, in 
 a cool, airy situation. The kernel of the fat 
 should be at once removed, the part from which 
 it is taken wiped dry, and this, as well as the 
 entire haunch, should be dusted with pepper 
 and powdered ginger. The haunch should be 
 examined twice a day, and if any moisture 
 appears it should be wiped with a dry cloth ; 
 and the meat should be kept as long as it can 
 be preserved sweet and untainted. In order to 
 ascertain whether or not it is ready for cooking, 
 run a skewer into the flesh close to the bone, 
 and from this judge the state of the meat. 
 When it is to be roasted, saw off the shank-bone, 
 remove the sinews, scrape away the dark dry skin 
 from the skirt, and also the dried surface of the 
 under part. Wipe the haunch thoroughly with 
 damp cloths which have been wrung out of luke- 
 warm water, then dry it perfectly. It should be 
 remembered that the more fat there is on the 
 joint the better it will be, and that in roasting 
 the main object is to preserve the fat. There- 
 fore, first cover the haunch with a large sheet of 
 well-greased, thick, white cartridge paper, then 
 with a stiff paste of flour and water rolled out 
 to the thickness of three-quarters of an inch, 
 and tie securely over this with string or tape 
 two additional sheets of greased paper. Put 
 the haunch down to a clear, sound fire, quite 
 near at first, to harden the paste. Draw it back 
 after a minute or two, then bring it gradually 
 nearer. Baste the venison the moment it is 
 put down, to prevent the outer paper and the 
 string- from burning, and continue to baste 
 frequently and liberally till done enough. Half 
 an hour before the meat is done remove the 
 paper and the paste from it, and a few minutes 
 after take away the last paper. Sprinkle a little 
 salt over the meat, dredge the surface lightly 
 with flour, and then baste with butter dissolved 
 in a spoon. Pour the fat from the dripping-tin, 
 keeping back any brown gravy there may be. 
 Add half a tea-cupful of boiling water to this 
 gravy, poui^ it into a saucepan, and skim off 
 the fat. Boil it, and add a little salt to it. Put 
 the haunch on a very hot dish, and pour the 
 boiling gravy through a strainer upon it. Pin 
 a frill of white paper round the knuckle-bone. 
 Send venison gravy (see Venison, (jBAvt fob) 
 and venison sauce to table in a tureen, and let 
 red currant jelly be served on a separate dish. 
 The gravy should be prepared the day before it 
 is wanted, to ensure its being free from fat. 
 French beans plainly boiled are a suitable ac- 
 companiment to haunch of venison. Venison 
 fat hardens so quickly that especial care should 
 be taken that the plates are very hot ; indeed, 
 hot-water plates ought to be used. Time to 
 
VEN 
 
 1020 
 
 VEN 
 
 roast the venison, from four to five hours, or 
 about thirteen minutes to the pound when the 
 haunch is weighed with the paste on. Although 
 the omission is by no means recommended, some 
 cooks omit the flour-and-water paste ; then the 
 haunch will not need to be down so long. Doe 
 venison will be done before buck venison. Veni- 
 son is preferred underdone rather than overdone. 
 Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Suf- 
 ficient for twenty persons. 
 
 VENISON, HAUNCH OF (M. Ude's recipe). 
 
 " It was customary in France to cut off a 
 small rosette from the leg, to lard, and then 
 pickle it. In England it is customary to put 
 it on a spit, then to make some paste with flour 
 and water only, and case the venison with it, 
 securing it with a few sheets of paper. It can- 
 not be done thoroughly in less than four hours. 
 It is usually served up with red currant jelly, 
 made hot, with a little port wine. The women 
 cooks in England put flour over the roast just 
 before they remove it from the spit, a custom 
 which is utterly absurd. I approve of the 
 practice of flouring roast meat, if it be done 
 early enough to imbibe the gravy, and get 
 nicely browned, when it becomes very tasty. 
 In the other case, the froth of the flour and 
 butter adheres to the palate, and has an abomin- 
 able taste. I like to remove the paper from 
 the venison a few minutes before it is served, 
 and glaze the venison with very good glaze; 
 some fine salt must be spread over it before the 
 glaze is applied. This method is better and 
 more tasty than the other." 
 VENISON, HAUNCH OF, TO CARVE. 
 
 This is not a very difficult task. In carving 
 a haunch of venison, first cut it across down 
 to the bone at the knuckle ; then turn the dish 
 with the knuckle farthest from you, put in the 
 point of the knife, and cut down as deep as you 
 can; from the knuckle to the opposite end you 
 may take out as many slices as you please on 
 
 ^if^i^m^ 
 
 MUTTON DllESSED AS VENISON. 
 
 the right and left. The knife should slope in 
 making the first cut, and then the whole of 
 the gravy will be received in the well. It is 
 held by genuine epicures that some parts of the 
 haunch are better flavoured than others, but 
 it is doubtful whether ordinary palates will de- 
 tect any difference. Slices of venison should 
 not be cut thick, and plenty of gravy should 
 be given with them; but as there is a particu- 
 lar sauce made for this meat with red wine 
 and currant jelly, your guest should be asked if 
 he pleases to have any. The fat is very apt to 
 get cool soon, and become hard and disagree- 
 -able to the palate; to prevent this happening, 
 venison should always be served upon a water- 
 dish. 
 
 VENISON, JUGGED. 
 
 Cup any part of the meat, and simmer in * 
 some stock made from venison or mutton bones. 
 Add a turnip, a carrot, an onion stuck with a 
 clove or two, and a few allspice berries. Let 
 all boil up, then remove the vegetables, put the 
 pieces of meat into a jar, strain the stock over 
 them, and add a glass of claret or Burgundy. 
 Set the jar in a pot of boiling water or in a 
 gentle oven. Then take the meat out, thicken 
 the gravy with roux, and pour it over the meat. 
 Garnish with cut lemons. Cost, variable. 
 VENISON, MARINADED AND BAKED. 
 
 Take a shoulder of venison, bone and flatten 
 it, lay it in a deep dish with a pint of vinegar, 
 half a pint of oil, a sliced onion, a bunch of 
 sweet herbs, the grated rind of a Seville orange, 
 a pinch of grated nutmeg, and a little pepper, 
 salt, and powdered sugar. A glassful of white 
 wine may be added or not. Let it remain in this 
 marinade for forty-eight hours, and turn it about 
 three or four times. Take it up, cover with 
 greased paper, and bake in a moderately-heated 
 oven until done enough. Serve with venison 
 sauce. Time to bake the venison, one and three- 
 quarters to two hours, according to size. Prob- 
 able cost of venison, very uncertain. 
 VENISON, MOCK; OR MUTTON DRESSED TO 
 TASTE LIKE VENISON, STEWED. 
 
 Take a loin of mutton, or even a neck of 
 mutton, cut long in the bones, and hang it in a 
 cool, airy situation for several days. Skin and 
 bone it, lay it in a stewpan, pour over it a pint 
 of stock or water, and add a large onion stuck 
 with ten or twelve cloves, eight peppercorns, a 
 table-spoonful of vinegar, and three glassfuls of 
 port. Let it boil, skim it, put with it a small 
 bunch of sweet herbs and a little salt, and let 
 it simmer very gently till tender. Turn it over 
 two or three times that it may be equally 
 cooked. Serve with strong gravy made from the 
 bones, and with red currant jelly. The gravy 
 may be made as follows. Put the trimmings 
 and bone of the mutton into a stewpan with a 
 slice of butter. Shake them over the fire till 
 lightly browned. Pour upon them as much 
 stock as will cover them, and let them simmer 
 gently for an hour and a half. Strain the 
 liquor, let it cool, free it from fat, and season 
 with salt only, that its flavour may not over- 
 power that of the meat. Boil it up, and serve 
 very hot. If not sufficiently coloured, a very 
 small quantity of sugar browning may be added. 
 Time to stew the mutton, about three hours. 
 Probable cost. Is. per pound. Sufficient for six 
 or seven persons. (See also Mutton, Cooked 
 LIKE Venison.) 
 VENISON, NECK OF, TO ROAST. 
 
 A neck of venison should not be separated 
 from the shoulder till the buck is quite stiff, 
 otherwise the appearance of both the joints will 
 be spoilt. Shorten the rib bones, but do not cut 
 through the fat; saw off the chine-bone, and 
 remove the small bones which cover the fillet 
 part of the neck. Eoll over the ribs the 
 piece of fat from which the bones were taken. 
 Wrap the neck in oiled paper, then in a stiff 
 paste of flour and water, and afterwards in 
 greased paper again. Tie the coverings securely 
 on with tape, and roast the neck according to 
 
VEN 
 
 1021 
 
 VEN 
 
 the directions already given for roasting haunch 
 of venison. When done enough, serve with the 
 same accompaniments as for the haunch. A neck 
 of venison should properly be roasted on a cradle 
 spit. When this is not at hand, three skewers 
 should he put through the joint, and the spit 
 should be put between them and the bones. 
 Although it is best to cover the neck with the 
 paste, this is oftener than not omitted, and the 
 meat is enveloped in buttered paper only. Time 
 to roast a neck of venison, eleven minutes to the 
 pound. Probable cost of venison, very un- 
 certain. 
 
 ven:son olives. 
 
 Cut some slices of ham, lay them on a board 
 or table, and spread over them some very finely 
 minced venison, which has been nicely seasoned, 
 and moistened with a little melted red-currant 
 jelly. Strew a few bread-crumbs over, then 
 roll the olives up securely, and stew them in 
 brown gravy for twenty minutes. Arrange 
 neatly on a dish with little heaps of green peas. 
 
 VENISON, OXFORD JOHN OF. 
 
 Take some slices of equal size, and half an 
 inch thick, from a well-kept leg, loin, or neck 
 of venison. Season these rather highly with 
 powdered spice, and fry in hot fat till they are 
 brown on both sides. Put them in a stewpan, 
 pour over them in equal measures enough claret 
 and strong brown gravy to cover them, and 
 add a table-spoonful of white wine vinegar, 
 half a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, and a 
 few fried bread-crumbs. Cover the saucepan 
 closely, and heat the sauce gently till it is close 
 upon the point of boiling. Put the slices of 
 venison on a dish, strain the sauce over, and 
 serve very hot. If liked, the slices may be 
 marinaded for an hour or two in the wine, 
 vinegar, and spice, before being fried. Prob- 
 able cost of venison, very uncertain. 
 VENISON PASTY. 
 
 Venison pasty is generally made of the por- 
 tions of venison which do not roast very well, 
 such as the neck, breast, and shoulders, though 
 even the neck is more generally roasted. The 
 pasty should properly contain venison only. 
 When game and forcemeat are introduced, it 
 is known no more as venison pasty, but as game 
 pie. Wash the venison in vinegar, sprinkle a 
 little sugar upon it, and hang it in a cool, airy 
 situation for ten days, or a fortnight in favour- 
 able weather. It should not hang too long, and 
 should be examined night and morning and 
 dried with a, cloth. When it is to be used, 
 sponge it over with lukewarm water, and dry 
 it with a soft cloth. Bone it, trim away all the 
 skin, and cut it into pieces two inches square. 
 Line a baking-dish entirely with good stiff 
 pastry. Put in the pieces of meat, fat and lean 
 together. If there is not sufficient fat belong- 
 ing to the venison, a thin slice of the firm fat 
 of a loin or neck of mutton may be put in with 
 each piece of lean venison. Season the meat 
 with pepper and salt only, put half a pound of 
 butter over it, and pour in a quarter of a pint 
 of stock or water. Cover the dish with thick 
 pastry, ornament the top, make an opening in 
 the centre, and, lay a sheet of letter-paper over 
 it. Bake in a moderately-heated oven. Whilst 
 it is being baked, put the bones and trimmings 
 
 of the venison into a stewpan with a pinch of 
 powdered mace, a little pepper and salt, and 
 three pints of water. Simmer the gravy till it 
 is strong and pleasantly flavoured and reduced 
 to less than half the quantity. Strain it, let it 
 cool, and remove the fat. When the pie is done 
 enough, beat with the gravy a tea-spoonful of 
 lemon-juice and a glassful of port. Pour it into 
 the pie, by means of a pointed strainer, through 
 the hole in the centre, incline the dish a little 
 to each side that the gravy may penetrate to all 
 parts, and serve hot or cold. Time to bake the 
 pasty, two hours to three hours and a half, 
 according to size. If the under-crust is omitted, 
 the pie will not need to bake so long. Unless 
 the pastry is thick it will be burnt up before 
 the meat is done enough. Many cooks partially 
 stew the venison before putting it into the pie. 
 Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. 
 VENISON PASTY (another way). 
 
 If the meat is fresh, keep it for a fortnight 
 or three weeks, cut it into pieces, boil it well, 
 and make good gravy; season with pepper, salt, 
 port wine, vinegar, and a little sugar (according 
 to taste) ; if not fat, put in a little fat mutton. 
 Let the meat get cold, and then pack it in a 
 dish as close as you can, put it in the oven, and 
 bake till done. 
 VENISON PASTY (another way). 
 
 A modern pasty is made of the" parts that do 
 not roast well, as the neck, the breast, or shoul- 
 der. The breast makes a good pasty. Cut it into 
 little chops, trimming off the bones and skin ; 
 make some good gravy from the bones and 
 other trimmings; place fat and lean pieces of 
 the meat together, or, if very lean, place thin 
 slices from the firm fat of a leg or a neck of 
 mutton along with each piece of venison ; 
 season the meat with black pepper; salt, 
 pounded mace, and allspice ; place it hand- 
 somely in a dish, and put in the drawn gravy, 
 a quarter of a pint of claret or port, a wine- 
 glassful of shallot vinegar, and, if liked, a 
 couj/le of onions very finely shred. Cover 
 the dish with a thick crust. Before serving 
 the pasty, if the meat is lean, more sauce, 
 made of a little wine, gravy, mixed spice, 
 and the j\iice of a lemon may be put in hot. 
 An hour and a half in a moderate oven is qjiite 
 swfficient for baking an ordinary-sized pasty; 
 an hour will do for a small one. Some cooks 
 marinade the meat in the wine and other season- 
 ings for a night, or for some hours previous to 
 baking. This no doubt imbues the venison with 
 the flavour of the seasonings, but at the same 
 time draws off the juices asd hurts the natural 
 flavour of the meat. 
 
 VENISON PASTY, PASTRY FOR. 
 
 , Pastry for venison pasty should be good and 
 short, but stiff. For a rich pasty, it may be 
 made in the proportion of ten ounces of butter 
 to one pound of flour, and worked to a smooth, 
 stiff paste with two eggs and a little lukewarm 
 water. For an ordinary pasty, rub three or four 
 ounces of butter into a pound of flour, and work 
 it to a smooth stiff paste with a beaten egg and 
 a little lukewarm water. 
 
 VENISON PASTY, TO KEEP FOR SOME TIME. 
 Cut the meat of a breast or shoulder of veni- 
 son into pieces two inches square. Season these 
 
VEN 
 
 1022 
 
 VEN 
 
 with pepper and salt, adding, if liked, a small 
 pinch of grated nutmeg. Put them, fat and 
 lean together, into a baking-dish, place a good 
 slice of butter upon them, and cover the dish 
 with a coarse paste of flour and water. Bake 
 the pasty in a moderately-heated oven for a 
 couple of hours, and keep it in a cool, dry place. 
 When wanted, remove the coarse crust, line the 
 edges and sides of the dish with good pastry, 
 pour in a small quantity of strong gravy, cover 
 with pastry, and bake in a gooa oven till the 
 crust is firm. Time to bake the pastry, about 
 an hour. Probable cost of venison, very un- 
 certain. 
 
 VENISON PIE (a t'A'mericaine). 
 
 Take throe pounds of venison cut into small 
 squares ; place them in a saucepan with an 
 ounce of butter; brown them well for six 
 minutes, then add a table-spoonful of flour; 
 stir well, and moisten with a quart of white 
 broth; throw in six small white onions, a bou- 
 quet garni, and salt, pepper, and nutmeg to 
 taste. Let all cook for three-quarters of an hour 
 keeping the lid on the pan, and when done lay 
 the stew in a deep dish ; cover with a good pie- 
 crust; egg the surface with beaten egg, and 
 bake in the oven for forty minutes. Prepare a 
 dish with a folded napkin, lay the pie-dish on 
 this, and serve cold. 
 
 VENISON, POTTED. 
 
 Place the venison in a pan, pour red wine 
 over it, add to it a pound of butter; put a 
 paste over the pan, and set it in the oven to 
 bake. When done enough, take the meat out 
 of the gravy, beat it well with the butter that 
 ' has risen to the top, add more if necessary, 
 season with salt, pepper, and pounded mace. 
 Put the venison into pots, set them for a few 
 minutes 'in the oven; withdraw them, wait till 
 they are cold, and then cover their contents 
 with clarified butter. 
 
 VENISON, POTTED (another way). 
 
 Rub the venison with vinegar if it is stale, 
 and let it lie an hour. Then dry it with a cloth, 
 and rub it all over with red wine. Season with 
 pepper, salt, and mace, and put it into an 
 earthen pot or jar. Pour over it half a pint of 
 red wine, and a pound of butter, and put it in 
 the oven till it is quite tender. When it Ts 
 done, pick the meat clean from the bones and 
 skin, and beat it in a mortar with the fat and 
 gravy. If you find it not sufficiently seasoned, 
 add more seasoning, and keep beating till it is 
 a fine paste. Then press it hard down into the 
 pots, and pour clarified butter over it. The 
 wine may be omitted if not approved. 
 
 VENISON PUDDING. 
 
 Take two pounds of venison from the neck 
 or loin; cut the meat, fat and lean together, 
 into neat pieces, and season these with salt and 
 pepper. Put them in a saucepan, cover with 
 water, and simmer gently for three-quarters of 
 an hour. Lift them out, and let them get cold. 
 Line a pudding-basin with pastry half an inch 
 thick, lay in the venison, pour over it a quar- 
 ter of a pint of the gravy, to which a wine- 
 glassful of port has been added, and cover in 
 the usual way. Press the edges securely to- 
 gether that the gravy may not escape. Wring a 
 
 pudding-cloth out of boiling water, flour it well, 
 and tie the pudding loosely in it. Plunge it 
 into boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly 
 until done enough. Let it stand a few minutes 
 before turning it out. Send the remainder of 
 the gravy to table in a tureen. Time to boil 
 the pudding, about an hour and a half. Prob- 
 able cost of venison, very uncertain. 
 
 VENISON, RED DEER. 
 
 Red deer should be cooked in every respect 
 like ordinary venison. It requires to be well 
 hung. Opinions differ about it as an article of 
 food, some regarding it as very delicious, others 
 as coarse and ill-flavoured. But, on the whole, 
 it is less esteemed than well-fed venison of the 
 usual kind. 
 
 VENISON, ROAST (a German recipe). 
 
 Hang the venison for ten days or a fortnight 
 in a cool, dry place. At the end of that time 
 wash and wipe it, then beat it well. Flay off 
 the skin. Take bacon-strips rather more than 
 two inches long, and with these lard the fleshy 
 parts all over. Roast or bake the meat, basting 
 constantly; use sour cream or butter and milk 
 for the purpose. Send to table with a sauce 
 made by adding water to the bastings, skim- 
 ming and straining, and adding pepper, salt, 
 and lemon-juice. 
 
 VENISON, ROEBUCK. 
 
 The roebuck, or common roe, is of a reddish 
 brown colour, and, though small, is elegant 
 in shape. When plainly cooked it is not of 
 much account, but when marinaded, larded, or 
 jugged, it is very good. The flesh has been 
 compared to mountain mutton. 
 
 VENISON, SADDLE OF, CRUSTED(aGerman recipe). 
 The venison must be hung some time, but not 
 long enough to make it high. After washing, 
 lay it in a broad pan to cook with cold water 
 enough to cover it; and in this put a small 
 tea-cupful of vinegar, two or three carrots, 
 onions, bay-leaves, a good bunch of sweet-herbs, 
 including b^sil and a sprig of marjoram, some 
 salt, pepper, about twenty juniper berries, as 
 many whole pimento, and six cloves. Let it 
 come slowly to a scalding heat. Skim and 
 leave it to simmer two hours or more, according 
 to size. It must be done tender. Then take 
 it up, spread over it a beaten egg, and on this 
 sjjrinkle a thick layer of bread-crumbs mixed 
 with a table-spoonful of moist sugar, a tea- 
 spoonful of powdered cinnamon, and half a 
 dozen pounded cloves. Brown bread is best for 
 this. The coating must be a third of an inch 
 thick or more. Skim off a little of the fat 
 boilings, and sprinkle the crumbs over with it. 
 Put the venison in the oven, and let it bake 
 a nice brown. Serve good fruit sauce with it. 
 
 VENISON, SAUCES FOR. 
 
 In addition to the strong unflavoured gravy 
 —a recipe for making which has already been 
 given (see Venison, Geavy foe) — venison is 
 usually accompanied by either a sweet or a 
 piquant sauce. Several recipes are here given. 
 No. 1. Melt a little red currant jelly, and send 
 it to table in >< tureen ; or, without melting it, 
 turn it upon a glass dish, and serve cold. No. 2. 
 Simmer the trimmings of the venison for half 
 an hour in as much mutton gravy or water as 
 
YEN 
 
 1023 
 
 VEN 
 
 will barely cover them. Strain and skim the 
 liquor, and put it into a saucepan with a large 
 table-spoonful of red currant jelly, a table-, 
 sjjoonful of powdered white sugar, and a large 
 wine-glassful of port or claret. Let the sauce 
 simmer gently till it is quite hot, and then 
 serve. No. 3. Bruise an inch of stick cinnamon, 
 and put it, with the rind of half a lemon, into 
 a saucepan. Add a quarter, of a pint of red 
 currant jelly and a table-spoonful of port. Boil 
 the sauce for five minutes, and serve. No. 4 
 (old-fashioned sauce). Clean two ounces of cur- 
 rants, and boil them for five minutes in half a 
 pint of water. Add a glassful of port, half a 
 tea-cupful of finely-grated bread-crumbs, an 
 ounce of butter, and four cloves. Stir the sauce 
 over a gentle fire for ten minutes, remove the 
 cloves, and serve. Currants washed and dried 
 ar3 sometimes served instead of this sauce. 
 No. 5. Put two ounces of powdered white sugar 
 into a stone jar with a quarter of a pint of white 
 wine vinegar. Heat the sauce till the sugar is 
 dissolved, and serve. A glassful of claret and 
 a pinch of cayenne may be added to this sauce 
 if liked. No. 6. Put a quarter of a pint of 
 strong unflavoured mutton gravy into a sauce- 
 pan, and add a large glassful of claret, and a 
 small glassful of raspberry vinegar. Simmer 
 the sauce till it is hot, and serve. 
 
 VENISON, SHOULDER OF, BRAISED. 
 
 Bone the shoulder, and lay it in a marinade 
 composed of equal parts of vinegar and water 
 and a bunch of savoury herbs. Let it remain 
 for three or four days, then lay some slices of 
 fat bacon and one minced onion in a pan ; put 
 in the meat, season well with pepper and salt; 
 add two cloves, a slice of lemon, and two ounces 
 of butter; bake, keeping the pan closely 
 covered, in a moderate oven for two hours, or 
 cook slowly in a closely-covered stewpan or 
 braising-pan. Strain the liquor, add a wine- 
 glassful of cream, and serve very hot with red 
 currant jelly. 
 
 VENISON, SHOULDER OF, MARINADED. 
 
 Make a marinade by mixing together a pint 
 of vinegar and » tea-spoonful of black pepper. 
 Remove the bones from a shoulder of venison, 
 flatten it on a table, and lay it, with the neck 
 (from which half a pound of the meat has been 
 cut), in the marinade. Let it lie for twelve 
 hours. Mince the meat which was cut off with 
 four ounces of fa,t bacon, and add a pinch of 
 cayenne and a little grated nutmeg. Spread 
 this forcemeat on the inside of the shoulder, 
 roll and bind it tightly, and roast in the usual 
 way. Serve with strong unflavoured gravy, 
 and sweet or piquant sauce. Time to roast the 
 joint, two hours to two hours and a half, ac- 
 cording to size. Probable cost of venison, very 
 uncertain. 
 
 VENISON, SHOULDER OF, ROAST. 
 
 Be careful that the shoulder of venison is 
 not separated from the neck till the buck is 
 cold and stiff, otherwise the appearance of both 
 joints will be spoilt. Let the shoulder hang in 
 a cool, airy situation as long as it can be kept 
 untainted. Examine twice a day, and wipe 
 away any moisture that may appear. Cover all 
 over with thin slices of mutton fat. It is im- 
 portant that this should be done, because the 
 
 meat has none of its own. Wrap it in greased 
 paper, then in a stiff flour-and-water paste, and 
 afterwards in greased paper again. Hang it 
 before a sound, clear fire, roast, and serve like 
 a haunch, with the same accompaniments. The 
 flour and water paste is sometimes omitted ; 
 the slices of mutton fat should never be. Time 
 to roast a shoulder of venison, about an hour 
 and three-quarters. Probable cost of venison, 
 very uncertain. 
 
 VENISON, SHOULDER OF, STEWED. 
 
 Bone the shoulder, and flatten it on a table. 
 Season with a savoury powder made of two 
 table-spoonfuls of salt, half a tea-spoonful of 
 cayenne, half a tea-spoonful of pounded macej 
 and a tea-spoonful of powdered white sugar. 
 Lay over the joint thin slices of the fat of a 
 loin of mutton, roll tightly, and bind securely 
 with tape. Place it in a stewpan as nearly as 
 possible of its own size, pour over it as much 
 stock as will cover it, let it boil, skim it, and 
 simmer gently till tender. Turn it over when 
 half done. Take it up, remove the tape, and 
 lay the venison on a dish. Strain the gravy, 
 thicken it with brown thickening, season with 
 salt and cayenne, add a glassful of wine, and 
 serve it with the meat. Time to stew the 
 venison, three or four hours, according to size. 
 Probable cost, very uncertain. 
 
 VENISON, SHOULDER OF, STEWED (another way). 
 Let the meat hang as long as it will keep 
 sweet. Take out the bone, and beat the meat 
 with a rolling-pin; lay upon it some slices of 
 mutton fat that have been soaked a few hours 
 in a little red port; sprinkle over it a little 
 pepper and allspice in fine powder; roll it up 
 tight, and tie it. Set it in a stewpan that will 
 just hold it with some mutton or beef gravy, or 
 broth, a quarter of a pint of port wine, some 
 pepper and allspice. Cover closely, and simmer 
 as slowly as you can for three or four hours. 
 When quite tender, take off the tape, set the 
 meat on a dish, and strain the gravy over it. 
 Serve with currant jelly. 
 
 VENISON, SMOKED. 
 
 Smoked venison is much liked in America; 
 It is usually sold in canvas bags, like West- 
 phalian hams, and keeps a long time. If for 
 cutting into steaks for grilling, etc., it is soaked 
 in water first. It is also boiled in the same 
 way as ham, but is cooked in a shorter time. 
 
 VENISON SOUP. 
 
 Cut two pounds of the breast of venison info 
 small pieces, and place these in a stewpan, with 
 a pound of the knuckle of veal and a couple 
 of ounces of lean ham. Pour over them three 
 quarts of cold water, and add a large onion cut 
 small, half a blade of mace, a few sticks of 
 celery, and a little salt and whole pepper. Let 
 all stew till the goodness is entirely drawn out 
 of the venison. Kub the soup through a sieve, 
 thicken with brown thickening, add a large 
 glassful of port or Madeira, boil a quarter of an 
 hour longer, and serve very hot. Time to sim- 
 mer the soup, about three hours and a half. 
 VENISON SOUP (another way). 
 
 Take the broken-up bones, trimmings, and 
 remains of various kinds of game ; put them 
 into a stewpan, pour over them three quarts 
 
VEN 
 
 1C24 
 
 VER 
 
 of stock made from beef or mutton bones, and 
 stew gently for two hours. Strain the soup, 
 pick the meat from the bones, let it get cold, 
 and pound till smooth with a little butter. Stir 
 it into the strained stock, and put it back into 
 the stewpan with a carrot, an onion, a few 
 sticks of celery, a blade of mace pounded, and 
 a little salt and cayenne. Simmer the soup 
 half an hour, and skim carefully. Cut some 
 fresh venison into neat slices, flour these, and 
 brown them in the frying-pan. Put them into 
 the soup, and stew them till tender but not 
 overdone. Take out the vegetables, add a 
 glassful of port and a table-spoonful of red 
 currant jelly to the soup, and serve it with the 
 meat in the dish. Time, about four hours. 
 
 VENISON SOUP, BROWN. 
 
 Cut about a pound and a half of the breast 
 of venison into small pieces, and stew them 
 with a small piece of fresh butter for half an 
 hour. Turn them about occasionally, and be 
 careful that they do not burn. Mix a quart 
 of cold water with a quarter of a pint of the 
 blood, put the liquor into a separate stewpan, 
 and stir till it boils. Put the stew into it, and 
 add six or eight black peppercorns, an onion 
 minced small, and the red part of a carrot 
 grated : then simmer the soup gently for from 
 one hour and a half to two hours. Strain the 
 soup, and thicken with brown thickening. Put 
 the meat into it again, add a glassful of wine, 
 make it thoroughly hot, and serve. When the 
 tilood is objected to, it may be omitted, and 
 beef or mutton stock substituted for the water. 
 French beans cut into diamonds, and carrots 
 and turnips cut into dice, may be served with 
 this soup. 
 
 VENISON SOUP, MADE FROM THE REMAINS 
 OF COLD ROAST VENISON. 
 
 Break up the bone into small pieces, put them 
 into a stewpan, and cover with cold water, or 
 with stock, if at hand. Put with this two car- 
 rots, two onions, each stuck with a clove, and a 
 little pepper and salt. Let the liquor boil, 
 skim carefully, and simmer gently for three 
 hours or more. Strain it, and thicken with a 
 little brown thickening. Let it simmer again 
 by the side of the fire till it has thrown up its 
 grease, then skim it. Let it boil again, add a 
 table-spoonful of red currant jelly and a glass- 
 ful of port or claret, and serve very hot. Cut 
 some stale bread into dice, fry these in hot fat, 
 drain them on a sieve before the fire, and send 
 them to table with the soup. If there be any 
 meat left on the bones, it may be cut up, and 
 either stewed and rubbed through a sieve or 
 pounded to a pulp, and stirred into the soup. 
 Time, four to five hours. 
 
 VENISON STEAKS, BROILED. 
 
 Cut the steaks an inch thick from the leg or 
 the loin of venison. Make the gridiron hot, rub 
 the bars with a little suet, and place the steaks 
 I upon it over a clear fire. Turn them every two 
 minutes to preserve the gravy. Make the steak 
 dish very hot ; put on it for each pound of veni- 
 son an ounce of butter, a table-spoonful of liquid 
 red currant jelly, a, table-spoonful of wine, or, 
 a,s a substitute, boiling stock or water, and a 
 little pepper and salt. Turn the broiled steaks 
 in the sauce once or twice, and serve very hot. 
 
 By way of variety the butter only may be put 
 into the dish under the steaks, and stewed mush- 
 ^rooms may be served with the venison; or thin 
 slices of lemon may be laid on the steaks for the 
 last two or three minutes that they are being 
 broiled, and then served with them. Time, 
 from twenty to twenty-five minutea« to broil 
 the steaks. Probable cost of venison, very un- 
 certain. 
 
 VENISON STEAKS, FRIED. 
 
 Cut some steaks half an inch thick from a leg 
 or loin of venison, season with pepper and salt, 
 dip them in flour, and put them in the frying- 
 pan with some hot fat. Cover with a plate or lid 
 till they are brightly browned on one side, then 
 take oft the cover, turn them, and let them 
 brown quickly upon the other. Be careful that 
 they are not overdone. Pour a wine-glassful of 
 boiling stock or water into the pan, add a table- 
 spoonful of red currant jelly and a glassful of 
 port or dlaret, if liked ; stir the sauce over the 
 flre for a few minutes, and serve very hot. 
 Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. 
 
 VENISON STEAKS, WITH BACON. 
 
 Take the desired number of steaks, and partly 
 cook them in a frying-pan. Then put a slice of 
 bacon, cut to size, on each side, and when the 
 bacon is cooked and browned the steaks are 
 ready to be served. They are usually served 
 with a bread sauce made with stock or gravy 
 in place of milk, and rather highly flavoured 
 with cayenne, mace, and cinnamon. Cranberry 
 jelly should also be served as an adjunct. 
 
 VENISON, STEWED. 
 
 Take the remains of some roast haunch of 
 venison, cut it into square pieces ; thicken some 
 of the gravy that was left over, and put the 
 venison in, with a dash of lemon-juice and a 
 wine-glassful of port. Let it get thoroughly hot 
 through, and serve with croutons. 
 
 VENISON, WHOLESOMENESS OF. 
 
 Venison is less nutritive than beef, but is more 
 easily digested. Indeed, venison, if kept for 
 some time, is one of the most easily digested 
 articles of animal food, and well fltted for dys- 
 peptics. When used by such persons, it should 
 be plain roasted, and rather underdone ; and 
 they should eat it without any sweet condi- 
 ments, using merely table-salt. It should be 
 kept for some time to make it tender, but not 
 so long as to begin to decay, as is often done. 
 
 VERJUICE. 
 
 Verjuice, or the juice of green fruits, is an 
 acid liquor expressed from crab - apples, sour 
 grapes, and unripe gooseberries, and used in 
 sauces or ragouts as a substitute for lepion- 
 juice ; indeed, for some dishes experienced 
 cooks prefer verjuice to lemon-acid. To pre- 
 pare it from unripe grapes, gather the grapes 
 while they are transparent, and extract the 
 juice from them by a wine or cider press, or 
 by pressing them in a cloth. Filter it re- 
 peatedly till it is clear. Bottle it, and expose it 
 to the sun, uncorked, for six or seven days. 
 The liquor will ferment, and the bottles must 
 be filled up every morning. To preserve it, an 
 ounce of salt should be added to each pint of 
 juice, and it should be kept in well - closed 
 bottles. Gooseberry verjuice is much used in 
 
VER 
 
 1025 
 
 VER 
 
 France. It is sweetened and coloured, and sold 
 as " Syrup de Groseilles." It is made just like 
 grape verjuice. When crab-applea are made 
 use of for this purpose, they must be gathered 
 fully ripe, then piled in a heap, and left for a 
 few days to sweat before the juice is expressed 
 from them. All decayed apples must, of course, 
 be discarded. As verjuice is very liable to 
 undergo decomposition, the vessels in which it 
 is to be preserved should be sulphured before it 
 is put into them. To do this, introduce into 
 the jars a burning match that has been dipped 
 in melted sulphur, fill the bottles while they are 
 full of the smoke, and cork instantly and very 
 securely. 
 
 VERMICELLI. 
 
 Vermicelli is a preparation of wheaten flour, of 
 a substance similar to macaroni, the difference 
 between them being that the latter is made in 
 larger tubes. It is in the form of long threads, 
 and derives its name from its worm-like appear- 
 ance, as vermicelli means little worms. It is 
 of Italian origin, and with macaroni forms the 
 principal food of the people in Italy. It is used 
 amongst us in soups and broths, and for making 
 puddings, etc. 
 
 VERMICELLI (a ta Reine). 
 
 Blanch the vermicelli in boiling water, drain 
 it, and throw it into some rich consomme well 
 seasoned. When done, a short time before 
 serving thicken it with the yolks of eight eggs 
 mixed with cream, and pour the vermicelli into 
 the tureen for fear the thickening should get 
 too much done, which would be the case if it 
 remained on the corner of the stove. 
 
 VERMICELLi (au lait). 
 
 Boil a quart of milk, and drop lightly into it 
 six ounces of vermicelli which has been blanched 
 in boiling water to free it from alljmpurities. 
 Simmer gently, and stir frequently to keep it 
 from getting into lumps. When tender, sweeten 
 it and send it to table. Time to boil the vermi- 
 celli, fifteen to twenty-five minutes. 
 
 VERMICELLI JELLY (Invalid Cookery). 
 
 This may be eaten cold as a jelly or hot as a 
 soup. The ingredients required are, half a 
 pound of neck of muiton all lean, the same of 
 beef from the thick part of the leg, an ounce of 
 isinglass, and an ounce of vermicelli. The meat 
 must be cut very small, and put into three pints 
 of water an hour beforehand. Bring to the boil, 
 and then add the other ingredients, and simmer 
 for from four to five hours. Season with a few 
 peppercorns, and a sprig of any sweet herb, or 
 a bay-leaf, except in serious illness, when only a 
 pinch of salt should go in. Skim well in the 
 early stages of the cooking, and carefully strain 
 and free from fat at the end of the process. A 
 little wine or brandy may be added after strain- 
 ing. If wanted cold, pour into shallow earthen- 
 ware vessels, and keep in a cold place. It should 
 simmer down to less than a quart. 
 
 VERMICELLI PORRIDGE. 
 
 Boil one quart of milk, then shake in two and 
 a half ounces of vermicelli, stirring well till 
 mixed ; let it cook slowly for half an hour, stir- 
 ring frequently; add a pinch of salt, and serve 
 in the same way as oatmeal porridge, with cream 
 and castor sugar. 
 3n 
 
 VERMICELLI, PORTUGUESE. 
 
 Break lightly three ounces of vermicelli. Soak 
 it in water for an hour; drain it, and put it 
 into a saucepan with a pint of milk and an inch 
 of stick vanilla, or a little lemon-rind. Let it 
 simmer gently for an hour and a quarter. Take 
 out the flavouring ingredient, stir into it three 
 additional table-spoonfuls of milk, and sweeten 
 to taste. Simmer twenty minutes longer. Let 
 it cool a little, then stir into it four well-beaten 
 eggs. Beat it over the fire till it is on the 
 point of boiling, draw it back, and add a small 
 wine-glassful of thick cream and another of 
 brandy. When wanted, put it into a glass dish, 
 and keep it in a cool place till it is to be served. 
 A few minutes before it is wanted, crush three 
 macaroons to powder, and sprinkle the dust thus 
 obtained over the vermicelli. Time, four hours. 
 Probable cost. Is. 4d., exclusive of the brandy. 
 Sufiicieut for five or six persons. 
 VERMICELLI PUDDING (a German recipe). 
 
 Take a pint of milk, and boil it with six 
 ounces of butter; throw in at the moment of 
 boiling three ounces of vermicelli, and stir till 
 it thickens and no longer adheres to the sides 
 of the pan. Take the preparation off the fire, 
 and when cool stir in two ounces of powdered 
 sugar, an ounce of powdered almonds, including 
 four bitter ones, the grated peel of half a lemon, 
 a little spice, if liked, and the yolks of six eggs ; 
 then add the whites of the eggs whisked to 
 snow. Boil the pudding briskly for an hour in 
 a well-buttered mould. Serve with a. fruit or 
 wine sauce. 
 VERMICELLi PUDDBNG, BAKED, PLAIN. 
 
 Flavour a pint and a quarter of milk with cin- 
 namon, lemon-rind, or grated nutmeg. Strain 
 and boil it, and drop into it gradually when boil- 
 ing a quarter of a pound of vermicelli. Stir it 
 over the fire till it is tender and the milk is 
 thick. It will take about a quarter of an hour. 
 Pour it into a bowl, and beat it well with a 
 pinch of salt and a little powdered sugar. When 
 nearly cold add one well-whisked egg. Butter 
 a pie-dish, pour in the pudding, and bake in 
 a moderate oven. When it is nicely browned 
 upon the top it is done enough. If a richer 
 pudding is required, an additional egg or more 
 should be put in, together with a quarter of a 
 pint of cream and a little brandy. Time to bake 
 the pudding, three-quarters of an hour. Prob- 
 able cost, 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 VERMICELLI PUDDING, BOILED. 
 
 Put four ounces of fresh vermicelli into a 
 saucepan with a pint and a quarter of milk. 
 Bring it gently to the boil, and simmer it, stir- 
 ring all the time, till it is tender, and the milk 
 thick. It will take from ten to fifteen minutes. 
 Pour it into a bowl, let it cool, sweeten it, and 
 flavour with lemon and nutmeg. Add a pinch 
 of salt, and stir in gradually three well-beaten 
 eggs. Butter thickly the inside of a mould. 
 Stick raisins here and there upon it, and pour 
 in the vermicelli and milk very gently, so as 
 not to disturb the fruit. Let the mould be 
 quite full. Place a round of buttered paper on 
 the top, tie the pudding firmly in a floured 
 cloth, plunge it into a saucepan of fast-boiling 
 water, and keep it boiling quickly till done 
 enough. Move it occasionally for the first 
 
VER 
 
 1026 
 
 VER 
 
 quarter of an hour to prevent any of the ingre- 
 dienta from settling to the bottom. As the water 
 boils away add more, hailing. Let the pudding 
 stand four minutes after it is taken out of the 
 water, and place it on a hot dish. Pour sweet 
 sauce round it, and serve. If more convenient, 
 the pudding may be steamed instead of being 
 boiled. Time, one hour and a quarter to boil 
 or steam the pudding. Probable coat, lOd. 
 Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 VERMICELLI PUDDING, RICH. 
 
 Simmer the rind of half a lemon and half an 
 inch of stick cinnamon in a quart of milk till 
 it is pleasantly flavoured. Strain it, let it boil, 
 and drop into it lightly and gradually four 
 ounces of fresh vermicelli. Stir constantly, and 
 boil gently for twenty minutes. Turn it into a 
 bowl, and stir into it a slice of fresh butter, a 
 table - spoonful of thick cream, and sugar to 
 sweeten it sufficiently. Beat, first separately 
 and afterwards together, the yolks of six eggs 
 and the whites of three. Stir them into the 
 pudding, pour it into a thickly-buttered pie- 
 dish, and bake in a gentle oven. Serve with 
 powdered sugar sifted thickly over it, and with 
 wine sauce as an accompaniment. Instead of 
 wine sauce, jam or fresh stewed fruit may be 
 sent to table with it. Time to bake the pudding, 
 about an hour. Probable cost. Is. 4d. Suf- 
 ficient for five or six persons. 
 
 VERMICELLI PUDDING, WITH APPLES. 
 
 Put a quart of milk into a. saucepan with a 
 thin strip of lemon-rind, bring it gently to the 
 boil, remove the lemon-rind, and drop lightly 
 and gradually into it four ounces of very fresh 
 vermicelli. Simmer over a gentle fire, stirring 
 it all the time till it is quite tender and very 
 thick. Turn it into a bowl, work into it a 
 large slice of fresh butter, and sweeten to 
 taste. Let the pudding become almost cold, 
 stir into it two, three, four, or five well-beaten 
 eggs, according to the kind of pudding required, 
 and add a spoonful of brandy if liked. Butter 
 a dish, turn the pudding into it, and cover the 
 surface with good baking apples which have 
 been pared, cored, and thinly sliced. Press 
 tliem into the pudding, so that they may be 
 covered with the batter, and bake the pudding 
 in a moderately-heated oven till the fruit is 
 tender. Time to bake the pudding, three- 
 quarters of an hour. Probable, cost, lOd. or 
 more, according to quality. Sufficient for six 
 persons. 
 
 VERMICELLI SOUP. 
 
 For eight persons take a quarter of a pound of 
 vermicelli, and blanch it in boiling water to take 
 ofi the taste of dust. Strain it, and throw it 
 into some broth that is boiling, otherwise the 
 vermicelli will stick together, and cannot be 
 separated unless crumbled into a thousand 
 pieces. Mind, the vermicelli, must be boiled in 
 broth before you mix it with any of the puree, 
 and take care to break the vermicelli before you 
 blanch it in the water, otherwise it will be in 
 long pieces and unpleasant to serve up. 
 
 VERMICELLI SOUP (another way). 
 
 Take a knuckle of veal and a scrag of mutton, 
 from each of which cut the flesh into Rraall pieces 
 about the size of walnuts, and mix them 
 
 together with five or six slices of lean ham. 
 Put into the bottom of your pan about four 
 ounces of butter, and then the meat ; to which 
 add four blades of mace, three carrots, two 
 parsnips, two large onions with a clove stuck 
 on both sides of each, four or five cut heads of 
 celery, a bunch of sweet herbs, ten morels, and 
 an anchovy. When these are prepared and 
 mixed together in the pan, cover it very close, 
 and set it over a slow fire without any water 
 until the gravy is drawn out of the meat. This 
 being effected, pour it into an earthen pan, and 
 let the meat brown; then add to it four quarts 
 of wafer. Let the whole stew gently until 
 reduced to three pints, then strain it, and add 
 the reserved gravy. Set it on the fire, add ten 
 ounces of vermicelli, a head of celery cut small, 
 cayenne pepper and salt, and let the whole 
 simmer for about six minutes. Lay a French 
 roll at the bottom of the tureen, pour the soup 
 upon it, strew some vermicelli on the surface, 
 and serve up. 
 VERMICELLI SOUP (another way). 
 
 Break lightly four ounces of Italian vermicelli, 
 and soak it in cold water for half an hour. 
 Drain it, and drop it into three pints of boiling 
 stock. Add a spoonful of mixed mustard, half 
 a tea-cupful of grated Parmesan, a lump of 
 sugar, and a little salt. Stir frequently, and 
 simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour. 
 Pour into it two additional pints of stock, sim- 
 mer a few minutes longer, and serve. Send 
 to table with the soup some grated Parmesan 
 on a separate dish. A little sherry or Marsala 
 may be poured into the soup if liked, and will 
 greatly improve its flavour. Time, one hour. 
 
 VERMICELLI SOUP, CLEAR. 
 
 Lightly break a quarter of a pound of vermi- 
 celli, to prevent it hanging in long threads over 
 the side of the spoon as the soup is carried to 
 the mouth. Put it into boiling water, let it boil 
 for five minutes, drain it, and it will be ready for 
 the soup. If it cannot be immediately used, 
 cool it by putting it into cold water (if it is left 
 in a sieve to strain while hot, it will become 
 lumpy, and will not again dissolve). When cold, 
 drain it again, and it will be ready for use. If 
 the vermicelli is not thus blanched before it is 
 put into the soup, it will in all probability im- 
 part a cloudy look to the liquor. Boil three 
 pints of bright, clear stock already seasoned and 
 flavoured, put in tbe vermicelli, simmer gently 
 till tender, and stir it now and then to keep it 
 from getting into lumps. When tender, serve 
 in a tureen. Grated Parmesan cheese served 
 on a separate dish is a great improvement to this 
 soup. It may, of course, be dispensed with. 
 Time to boil the vermicelli, twelve to twenty 
 minutes, according to quality. It must not be 
 overcooked, or it will be spoilt. Sufficient for 
 six or eight persons. 
 
 VERMICELLI SOUP, WHITE. 
 
 Take two or three pints of white stock sea- 
 soned with salt, cayenne, and pounded mace, 
 and flavoured with a turnip, a carrot, an onion, 
 and a bunch of parsley. Put the crumb of a 
 French roll in as much of the liquor as it will 
 absorb, let it simmer till it is quite soft, and 
 beat it smooth with the back of a wooden 
 apoon. Stir it into the soup, boil for a quarter 
 
VER 
 
 1027 
 
 VIC 
 
 of an hour, and add half a pint of boiling 
 cream. Blanch two ounces of vermicelli by 
 boiling it in water for five minutes, drain it, 
 put it into fresh water, and boil till it is tender. 
 Put it into a tureen, pour the boiling soup upon 
 it, and serve very hot. If cream is not to be 
 had, the yolk of an egg and half a pint of 
 milk may be used instead. Stir the boiling milk 
 into the soup, beat the egg in the tureen, mix 
 a little of the soup with it, then add the rest. 
 Put in the vermicelli, and serve. Time, twelve 
 to twenty minutes to boil the vermicelli. Suf- 
 ficient for five or seven persons. 
 
 VERMICELLI SOUP, WHITE (another way). 
 
 Boil a quart of nicely-flavoured stock, break 
 lightly two ounces of vermicelli, and blanch it 
 in boiling water for five minutes, then put it 
 into the soup, and boil till tender. Beat the 
 yolk of an egg with two table-spoonfuls of 
 cream. A few minutes before it is to be served,- 
 mix a spoonful or two of the soup with the egg, 
 add it to the rest, and let it simmer gently for 
 a short time, but the soup must not boil after 
 the egg is added. Put a French roll at the 
 bottom of a tiireen, pour the soup over it, and 
 serve. A few leaves of green chervil or finely- 
 shredded parsley may, if liked, be added to the 
 soup to improve its appearance. Time, from 
 twelve to twenty minutes to boil the vermicelli. 
 
 VERMICELLI, WITH BOILED CHICKEN. 
 
 Truss a tender chicken for boiling, put it into 
 a stewpan with two pounds of the cushion of 
 bacon into which three or four cloves have been 
 stuck. Add a small piece of white roux, or, 
 failing this, half an ounce of butter mixed 
 smoothly with flour, pour over it as much white 
 stock as will cover it, and let all stew gently to- 
 gether for three-quarters of an hour. Throw 
 into the stock two ounces of vermicelli, and 
 boil it till tender. Take up the fowl and bacon, 
 and place them in separate dishes. Skim the 
 stock, and pour it with the vermicelli over the 
 fowl. Serve very hot. Time, two hours. 
 
 VERMONT BISCUITS. 
 
 Rub six ounces of loaf sugar upon the rind 
 of half a small fresh lemon until the yellow 
 part has been rubbed off, then crush the sugar 
 to powder, and mix with it five ounces of fine 
 flour and the well-whisked yolks of three eggs. 
 Put the mixture into a copper saucepan, and 
 beat it briskly over a very gentle fire until 
 smooth and thick, something like cream, then 
 add the whites of the eggs, which have been 
 beaten to a firm froth. Drop small portions 
 from the end of a spoon upon waxed baking- 
 sheets, and then put them into a cool oven. 
 When they are firm and lightly browned they 
 are done enough. Probable cost, 6d. for this 
 quantity. 
 
 VICE-CHANCELLOR'S PUDDING. 
 
 Boil a quarter of a pint of milk and a quarter 
 of a pint of cream with a dessert-spoonful of 
 sugar and a small strip of lemon-rind. If liked, 
 milk only should be used. Strain it over a slice 
 of the crumb of bread, and let it stand till the 
 bread has absorbed it. Beat it lightly with a 
 fork, and add the yolKs of two eggs, the white 
 of one, a table-spoonful of brandy, a little 
 grated nutmeg, and sugar to sweeten it. Pour 
 
 the pudding into a well-buttered shape which 
 it will quite fill, place a round of buttered 
 paper on the top, tie it in a cloth, and boil till 
 done enough. Let it stand for a minute or two,' 
 and turn it out. Time to boil the pudding, half 
 an hour. 
 VICTORIA BISCUITS. 
 
 Put three ounces of fresh butter into a bowl, 
 and beat it to cream; add, gradually, half a 
 pound of powdered white sugar, six ounces of 
 dried fiour, three ounces of pounded bitter 
 almonds, and sugar which has been rubbed 
 upon the rind of a lemon and powdered. Moisten 
 the mixture with a small glassful of liqueur, 
 butter some small tins, fill them with the batter, 
 dredge flour upon them, and bake in a tolerably 
 brisk oven till lightly browned. Spread upon 
 them thinly a little orange marmalade, dip them 
 in glaze, and put them on a strainer in a cool 
 oven for a few minutes till it is set. The glaze 
 may be prepared as follows. Boil together over 
 a quick fire half a pound of refined sugar and a 
 quarter of a pint of water. When bubbles ap- 
 pear on the surface of the syrup, dip the finger 
 and thumb in cold water, and take a little of 
 the sugar between them. Open them instantly, 
 and when the thread between them is strong and 
 thick, take the sugar from the fire, let it cool 
 a few minutes, and stir into it, gradually but 
 briskly, whatever liquid flavouring is to be used. 
 The glaze is now ready for the biscuits. 
 VICTORIA BUNS. 
 
 Beat two ounces of fresh butter to cream ; 
 add two ounces of powdered white sugar, an 
 ounce and a half of ground rice, an ounce and 
 a half of currants, a small piece of candied peel 
 thinly sliced, a pinch of salt, and a well-beaten 
 egg. Beat the mixture between every addition, 
 and add as much flour as will make the dougb 
 firm and smooth. Divide it into eight portions, 
 roll these into balls, place them on a buttered 
 baking-tin, and bake them immediately in a 
 brisk oven. If left to stand they will become 
 heavy. Time to bake the buns, about half an 
 hour. Probable cost, |d. each. 
 
 VICTORIA CAKE. 
 
 Put a pound and a quarter of fresh butter 
 into a bowl, and beat it to cream. Add six 
 ounces of powdered sugar, six ounces of 
 pounded sweet almonds, with two or three bitter 
 ones, half an ounce of oinHamon-powder, half 
 a pound of dried cherries, a quarter of a pound 
 of candied peel finely shredded, a pound and a 
 quarter of flour, a little salt, and four eggs. 
 Beat the mixture quickly for a few minutes ; 
 then add gradually, beating the batter all the 
 time, three-quarters of a pound of flour, eight 
 eggs well beateil, and a large wine-glassful of 
 brandy. Dissolve an ounce and a half of fresh 
 German yeast in a spoonful of lukewarm water ; 
 make a hollow in the centre of the batter, pour 
 in the yeast, and knead it thoroughly into the 
 cake. Whip half a pint of cream to froth, and 
 add this to the rest. Line a baking-tin with 
 buttered paper, half fill it with the mixture, 
 cover with a cloth, and set it in a warm place 
 till it has risen to double the size, then bake 
 immediately in a moderately-heated oven. 
 When the cake is lightly browned, and when 
 a skewer pushed into it will come out clean and 
 
VIO 
 
 1028 
 
 VIE 
 
 dry, it is done enough. If liked, this cake may- 
 be served as a pudding, with custard sauce. 
 Probable cost, 6s. 
 
 VICTORIA CAKE (another way). 
 
 Rub the rind of two fresh lemons with sugar 
 till the yellow part is taken 6S, crush the 
 lumps to powder, and add as much powdered 
 sugar as will make up the quantity to half a 
 pound. Whisk the whites of three eggs to 
 froth, stir in the sugar, and afterwards the 
 beaten yolks of six eggs. Last of all, work in 
 gradually and very thoroughly seven ounces of 
 dried flour. Line a tin mould with buttered 
 paper, pour in the batter, and bake the cake in 
 a moderately-heated oven. When it is lightly 
 brown, and when a skewer pushed into it will 
 come out clean and dry, it is done enough. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 VICTORIA PUDDING. 
 
 Boil a little piece of stick vanilla in a pint 
 of milk till it is pleasantly flavoured, strain it 
 upon six ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, 
 and add three table-spoonfuls of sugar, one 
 table-spoonful of brandy, and three well-beaten 
 eggs. Butter a mould thickly, flour it, and 
 ornament tastefully with dried cherries, slices 
 of preserved citron, or stoned raisins. Pour in 
 the pudding quite cold, put a plate upon it, 
 and steam it over boiling water. Let it stand 
 two or three minutes, turn it upon a hot dish, 
 and serve with Victoria sauce, or with melted 
 red currant jelljr poured round it. Time to 
 steam the pudding, one hour and a quarter. 
 Probable cost. Is. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 VICTORIA PUDDING, SUPERIOR. 
 
 Shred finely half a pound of sound beef suet 
 free from skin and fibre, put it into a bowl, 
 and mix with it a quarter of a pound of finely- 
 grated bread-crumbs, six ounces of dried flour, 
 four ounces of apples (weighed after they have 
 been pared, cored, and chopped), four ounces 
 of apricot jam, three ounces of finely-shredded 
 candied citron, three ounces of dried cherries, 
 and a quarter of a pound of sugar. Mix these 
 ingredients thoroughly, and stir into them five 
 well-beaten eggs, half a pint of cream or milk, 
 and two table-spoonfuls of brandy. Put the 
 mixture into a buttered mould which it will 
 quite fill, tie it in a floured cloth, plunge it 
 into boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly 
 until done enough. Let it stand three or four 
 minutes, turn it upon a glass dish, and serve 
 with brandy sauce. Time to boil the pudding, 
 one hour and a half. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. 
 Sufficient for six or seven persons. 
 
 VICTORIA SANDWICHES, SAVOURY (for breakfast, 
 luncheon, etc.). 
 Wash six or eight anchovies, cut off their 
 heads and fins, take out the backbones, and 
 divide each fish in two, from the shoulder to the 
 tail. Cut an equal number of thin slices of 
 brown bread and butter; put between each two 
 slices alternate layers of hard-boiled eggs, mus- 
 tard and cress cut small, and the fillets of the an- 
 chovies ; press the slices closely together, and 
 with a sharp knife cut them into neat squares. 
 Place them on a dish covered with a napkin, 
 and garnish with parsley. If not wanted imme- 
 
 diately, cover them with a napkin wrung out 
 of cold water to keep them moist. 
 
 VICTORIA SANDWICHES, SWEET. 
 
 Beat half a pound of fresh butter to cream. 
 Work in with it half a pound of powdered 
 white sugar, half a pound of dried flour, 
 and a pinch of salt. Add these ingredients 
 gradually, and beat the mixture well between 
 every addition. Whisk four large fresh eggs, 
 stir them into the cake, and beat again for 
 some minutes. Butter a shallow baking-tin, 
 pour the batter into it, and bake in a well- 
 heated oven. Let it get cold; spread a little 
 good jam upon one half, place the other half 
 upon it, press the pieces together, and sift 
 powdered white sugar on the top. Cut the cake 
 into long fingers with a sharp knife, pile these 
 crosswise on a glass dish, and they will be 
 ready for serving. Time to bake the cake, 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 VICTORIA SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS. 
 
 Beat the yolk of an egg with three table- 
 spoonfuls of cream; boil a table-spoonful of 
 sugar to a syrup with a little water, stir into 
 it the egg, etc., and a dessert-spoonful of Cura- 
 50a. Beat the sauce rapidly over the fire till 
 it begins to thicken; it is then ready for serv- 
 ing. It should look like rich cream. Time, a 
 quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 6d, Suf- 
 ficient for four or five persons. 
 VICTORIA SOUP (said to have been a favourite with 
 Queen Victoria). 
 
 Wash half a pound of best Carolina rice. 
 Throw it into boiling water, and boil it quickly 
 for ten minutes. Drain it, put it in a stewpan, 
 and pour upon it three pints of good nicely- 
 fiavoured white stock. Let it simmer jgently till 
 quite tender. Put aside two heaped table-spoon- 
 fuls of the rice ; rub the rest through a sieve, 
 and stir the pulp into the stock. Let it boil, and 
 pour it upon the whole rice. Season with salt 
 and pepper if required, and stir into it half a 
 pint of boiling cream or milk. Serve imme- 
 diately. If liked, pearl barley may be used 
 instead of rice. It must, of course, be partially 
 boiled in water to remove the impurities before 
 it is put into the stock. Time to boil the rice, 
 about an hour and a half. Sufficient for six or 
 seven persons. 
 
 VIENNA BREAD. 
 
 Required, two pounds of Vienna flour, two 
 ounces of butter, one ounce of yeast, a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, the same of white sugar, and a 
 pint of tepid milk. Rub the butter in the flour, 
 and mix the other ingredients, except the salt, 
 in a separate basin, the yeast and sugar being 
 flrst rubbed together. Then mix them with the 
 flour, add the salt, and work to a dough. Cover, 
 and in two hours make into fancy-shaped rolls, 
 twists, plaits, rings, etc. Put them on a baking- 
 tin, and throw a thin cloth over ; then set them 
 over a pan of boiling water for ten minutes, 
 bake in a sharp oven, and as soon as done glaze 
 them, or brush them over with beaten egg before 
 baking. For richer bread, an egg to each pound 
 of flour is added. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 VIENNA CAKE (a German recipe). 
 
 Make four or five white paper plates by 
 stretching the paper over any round utensil — 
 
VIE 
 
 1029 
 
 VIN 
 
 a large dinner or soup plate will do — plait up 
 an edge an inch deep, and tack it round with 
 needle and thread to keep it upright. Butter 
 these papers, and lay them on baking-tins. 
 Spread over each a layer of " sand tourte " 
 mixture not thicker than a thin pancake. The 
 sand tourte mixture is made thus. Stir half a 
 pound of butter to a cream, then add the yolks 
 of twelve eggs and half a lemon-peel grated. 
 Add by degrees half a pound of sifted sugar, 
 a quarter of a pound of fine flour, and the same 
 of potato flour. When these ingredients are 
 well mixed, add the egg-whites whipped to a, 
 snow. Bake the cakes in a moderate oven a 
 nice yellow; do not let them tinge brown. 
 When cold cut away the paper round, turn the 
 cakes over, and peel off the bottom paper with- 
 out breaking them. Lay one cake over the 
 other, with different coloured preserves and 
 marmalades between, till all are piled up. Dis- 
 solve powdered sugar with a little lemon-juice, 
 spread it thickly over the top and sides of the 
 cake to make a glazing. Put it into a cool oven 
 to dry, and when cold ornament the top with 
 preserved fruit or marmalade. 
 
 VIENNA RUSKS. 
 
 Required, two pounds of Vienna flour, half a 
 pint each of milk and water, two ounces of 
 castor sugar, the same of butter, one ounce of 
 French or German yeast, a salt-spoonful of salt, 
 and two eggs. Mix the yeast and sugar with a 
 little of the milk and water, blended, and just 
 tepid. Take care to have no lumps in the yeast. 
 Then add about one-fourth of the flour to form 
 the sponge, cover, and leave it to rise. When 
 fully risen, stir in the butter, just melted, and 
 the eggs, with the rest of the flour and the salt, 
 and mix into a light dough on a board. Cover for 
 an hour, then form the dough into long rolls 
 about the thickness of a rolling-pin ; grease the 
 sides that they may part more easily, and put 
 together on a tin. Set this over boiling water, 
 and lay a cloth over. In twenty to thirty 
 minutes bake the rolls on a slightly-greased tin 
 in a sharp oven. Break them apart, and leave 
 until next day, then rasp the tops and bottoms 
 and cut the rolls into thin slices. Lay these on 
 tins or wires and brown in the oven on both 
 sides. When quite cold, store in tins with well- 
 fitting lids. Probable cost. Is. 
 
 VIENNA STEAKS. 
 
 Take one pound of lean rump steak, one 
 ounce of ham, and one good onion, and pass 
 them all through the mincing machine. Add a 
 tea-spoonful of sweet herbs, half a tea-spoonful 
 of ground mace, and two beaten eggs. Incor- 
 porate thoroughly, and make up into cakes or 
 balls. Fry in boiling fat for half an hoi-.r. 
 Serve very hot, with finely-shredded fried 
 onions, or a whole braised onion on each steak. 
 
 VIENNA STEAKS (another way). 
 
 Take a pound and a half of rather lean beef 
 or veal, trim off all the gristle and chop the 
 meat very finely ; add salt and pepper to taste, 
 a little minced onion or shallot, a tea-spoonful 
 of mixed sweet herbs, and two well-beaten eggs. 
 Form into steaks, and fry slowly in butter Until 
 thoroughly cooked. Serve on a hot dish with 
 mashed potatoes or peas in the centre, and 
 brown gravy in a tureen. 
 
 VIENNA YEAST. 
 
 The good qualities of Vienna beer p,nd bread 
 are celebrated all over Germany, and are due 
 to the excellence of the yeast used in preparing 
 them. According to Dr. Vogel, the formula for 
 preparing this substance is as follows. Pre- 
 viously malted barley, maize, and rye are 
 ground up and mixed ; next put into water at 
 a temperature of 150° to 170° Fahr. ; after a 
 few hours the saccharine liquid is decanted from 
 the dregs, and the clear liquid brought" into a 
 state of fermentation by the aid of some yeast. 
 The fermentation becomes very strong, and, 
 by the force of the carbonic acid which is 
 evolved, the yeast globules are carried to the 
 surface of the liquid, and there form a thick 
 scum, which is to be removed by a skimmer, 
 placed on cloth filters, drained, washed with 
 a little distilled water, and next pressed into 
 any desired shape by means of hydraulic pres- 
 sure, and covered with a strong and stoutly- 
 woven canvas. This kind of yeast keeps from 
 eight to fourteen days, according to the season, 
 and is, both for bakers and brewers, very 
 superior to that ordinarily used. 
 
 VIENNESE BISCUITS, FOR DESSERT. 
 
 Beat five eggs for fully a quarter of an hour 
 with half a pound of powdered white sugar. 
 Add gradually half a pound of flour, and beat 
 the mixture again till it is light and smooth. 
 Have ready some baking-sheets buttered and 
 floured for the purpose. Put the batter into a 
 biscuit-forcer, and gently press it out upon the 
 baking-sheets in shapes broad at the ends and 
 narrow in the middle. Dredge powdered white 
 sugar on the surfac'e, and bake the biscuits in 
 a brisk oven. When they are lightly browned 
 they are done enough. Time to bake the bis- 
 cuits, about eight minutes. Probable cost. Is. 
 for this quantity. 
 
 VINAIGRETTE OF COLD MEAT. 
 
 Take any kind of cold cooked meat, out it 
 into neat slices, and put them upon a dish with 
 cold potatoes cut into slices, hard-boiled eggs 
 cut into quarters, and slices of beetroot. Season 
 rather highly with pepper and salt, pour over 
 all oil and vinegar, in the proportion of three 
 table-spoonfuls of oil to two of vinegar, and toss 
 the mixture lightly together with a fork. Sliced 
 cucumber, chopped parsley, and finely-minced 
 onion may be added if liked, and a few drops of 
 tarragon or chilli vinegar may be mixed with the 
 ordinary vinegar. Sometimes the various in- 
 gredients are sent to table prettily arranged in 
 rings round a dish, with the colours contrast- 
 ing, and they are mixed with the salad dressing 
 at the moment of serving. A vinaigrette of cold 
 boiled beef is excellent. 
 
 VINAIGRETTE, SAUCE A LA. 
 
 This is a sauce much used in Paris for cold 
 viands. Sauce a la vinaigrette is composed of 
 salad oil, vinegar, finely-chopped parsley, and 
 shallots, onions, or chives, with pepper and salt 
 to taste. For those who have no objection to 
 oil this sauce is infinitely superior to mere vine- 
 gar, pepper, and salt. It is suitable for ever^ 
 kind of cold meat, and especially for cold calf s 
 head; and is admirable with cold salmon, 
 turbot, or, indeed, any sort of cold fish. Hard- 
 boiled eggs also eat extremely well with sauce 
 
VI N 
 
 1030 
 
 VIN 
 
 a la vinaigrette ; so do many kinds of cold vege- 
 tables, and especially asparagus; in fact, this 
 is quite as often eaten cold as liot in Paris, and 
 always a la vinaigrette. Cold artichokes are also 
 very largely consumed with this sauce. When 
 used for cold meat, and particularly with calf's 
 head, the addition of a few capers to the sauce 
 is a great improvement; and with cold roast 
 meat a gherkin cut up fine is excellent. As 
 this is a sauce produced almost entirely out of 
 the cruet-stand, it suits well with our English 
 habits. You rub up the salt and pepper with a 
 little vinegar, then add as much oil as you 
 please, with chopped parsley, shallot, gherkins, 
 or capers, according to convenience or taste. 
 
 VINDALOO (an Indian dish). 
 
 Take four pounds of young fat pork, freshly 
 killed, and not washed. If water be used in any 
 form the meat will not keep. Cut it up into 
 square pieces, of two inches or thereabouts, and 
 rinse them in good vinegar. Rub each well over 
 with curry-powder, steep them in good French 
 vinegar to cover for twenty-four hours, with 
 half a tea-spoonful of salt. Heat some good 
 mustard oil in a copper pan; when it begins to 
 smoke put in four table-spoonfuls of curry-pow- 
 der, mixed into a paste with vinegar; add a 
 heaped table-spoonful of P9unded garlic, and the 
 meat, with the vinegar in which it was steeped. 
 Then put in salt to taste, a tea-spoonful of 
 peppercorns, and four bay-leaves, and cook until 
 the meat is quite tender. Set it by until cold, 
 then put the meat in a perfectly-dry jar of 
 earthenware. Pour in the oil in which it was 
 cooked, to come an inch or two above the meat. 
 Secure with a stopper and tie over with bladder. 
 
 VINEGAR. 
 
 Vinegar is an acid liquid, obtained by fermen- 
 tation, and, either plain or flavoured, is used 
 largely in cookery. White-wine vinegar is 
 generally considered the best. It is by no means 
 the most wholesome. Bordeaux vinegar is, per- 
 haps, to be preferred to any other for salads, 
 sauces, and home-made pickles, and other pre- 
 parations for which common vinegar is too 
 strong in flavour. It may be obtained by order 
 from any grocer. Vinegar may be economically 
 made at home, either with a vinegar plant or 
 with sugar and water (see Sl'gab, Vinegae), or 
 with sour wine, or even strong sour beer. All 
 that is necessary is to provide at first a, small 
 cask of good vinegar, to keep it in a place where 
 the temperature is mild, and, as it is drawn off, 
 t ; fill it, and also to keep it always filled up with 
 spoiled or sour wine. If a cask is chosen which 
 has not contained vinegar before, a large bottle- 
 ful of boiling Vinegar should be poured into it, 
 shaken about till cold, and left m it for some 
 hours. Vinegar may be made, too, from the 
 pulp and husks of fruit which has been used 
 for making wine. To make it, pour boiling 
 ^ater on the refuse; let it stand some hours, 
 and stir occasionally till the taste is completely 
 drawn from the fruit. Strain the liquor, and 
 add to every gallon a pound of strong coarse 
 sugar._ and a table-spoonful of yeast. Let it 
 work four or five days, put it into a vinegar 
 cask, cover the bunghole with a piece of tile 
 or slate, and leave it in a warm situation for 
 , ten or twelve months till the vinegar is made. 
 
 Put it in a cool place, and if the vinegar is not 
 clear and bright, mix a little dissolved isinglass 
 with it. Bung it up, or bottle for use. Vinegar 
 made from the refuse of raisin wine is excellent. 
 Vinegar was known for many ages betoe 
 any other acid. It is mentioned by MoseSi and, 
 indeed, seems to have been common among the 
 Israelites and other Eastern nations at a very 
 early period. It was at first made from wine, 
 and the formation of wine vinegar is probably 
 as ancient as the liquor itself from which it 
 was produced, although the improvement of 
 the process has been the result of the observa- 
 tion of ages. Vinegar was much in use among 
 the Greeks and Eomans, who employed it both 
 in their cookery as a luxury and as a medicine. 
 It was found highly useful in their armies ; the 
 soldiers being always obliged to carry some, 
 for the purpose of mixing a little with water to 
 obtain a grateful drink both cooling and excel- 
 lent to quench thirst. The practice is still fol- 
 lowed in some of the warmer parts of Europe ; 
 particularly among the Spanish peasantry, who 
 are accustomed to mix about a gill of wine 
 vinegar with a gallon of water and a tea-spoon- 
 ful of salt for a common beverage; and with 
 this drink alone, and bread, they frequently 
 sustain the labours of the field, exposed to the 
 heat of the sun in their warm climate, and are 
 as healthy and athletic a race as any in Europe. 
 
 VINEGAR, ADULTERATION OF, 
 
 The principal adulterations of vinegar are : 
 dilution with water; the addition of sulphuric 
 acid ; the substitution of pyroligneous for acetic 
 acid; the use of burnt sugar as a colouring 
 agent; and occasionally the addition of acrid 
 substances, as chillies and grains of Paradise. 
 It is a curious fact that, although the vinegar 
 maker obtains his malt vinegar without colour, 
 he is obliged to add burnt sugar to colour it, 
 in order to satisfy the public taste. This is a 
 harmless addition, but it is one of those things 
 which illustrate a feature in the adulteration of 
 food, and that is, that a great deal of it is done 
 to please the public taste. 
 
 VINEGAR AND LEMON WHEY (Invalid Cookery). 
 Take a sufficient quantity of boiling milk, 
 and pour into it as miich vinegar or lemon 
 as will make a small quantity of whey, dilute 
 with hot water' to an agreeable acid, and add 
 a lump or two of sugar. This drink is less 
 heating than if made with wine, and, if only to 
 excite perspiration, answers as well. 
 
 VINEGAR, BASIL. 
 
 Fill a wide-mouthed bottle with fresh green 
 basil-leaves, cover them with vinegar or wine, 
 and let them steep for ten days. If a very 
 strong essence be required, the liquor must be 
 strained off, and more leaves be added to it, to 
 steep in it for another fortnight; when this is 
 done it must be corked down. When used, a 
 table-spoonful will give to mock-turtle soup the 
 basil flavour; 
 
 VINEGAR, CIDER. 
 
 Cider is the principal source of vinegar in the 
 Northern States of North America. The com- 
 mon family method is as follows. The vinegar 
 barrel in summer is placed in the garret, or on 
 the sunny side of a building, and in winter in a 
 
lOSl 
 
 VIN 
 
 room where it does not freeze. The refuse cider, 
 already sour, or the daily remnants of the family 
 table, are added to some good vinegar in the 
 barrel, or to the mother of vinegar, as it is called. 
 This mother of vinegar is a white or yellowish 
 ropy coagulum of a mucilaginous appearance 
 which is formed in the vinegar, and acts as a 
 ferment upon cider not yet thoroughly acidified. 
 The fermentation is often aided by putting into 
 it a piece of dough or lean animal muscle, or by 
 adding molasses, or the sugar which falls spon- 
 taneously from molasses, In a few weeks the 
 vinegar will be formed. 
 
 VINEGAR, COLOURLESS. 
 
 To render pickling vinegar colourless, which 
 it should be for some sorts of pickles, stir to- 
 gether one gallon of the best pickling vinegar 
 and six ounces of bone black (animal charcoal) ; 
 let the mixture stand for two or three days, then 
 pour off the clear vinegar. 
 
 VINEGAR, CUCUMBER. 
 
 Take eighteen large cucumbers and six large 
 onions ; slice them thin, and put them into a 
 pan with twelve shallots, one head of garlic, a 
 table-spoonful of salt, the same of ground 
 pepper, and a tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper. 
 Add to these two quarts of good vinegar, and let 
 it stand four days ; then strain it through a 
 flannel bag, and bottle it, with twenty pepper- 
 corns in each bottle. 
 
 VINEGAR FOR SALADS. 
 
 Put into a jar two handfuls of tarragon, half 
 a handful of cress, the same of chervil and of the 
 young leaves of the pimpernel, and two cloves 
 of garlic; fill the jar with vinegar, cover it 
 closely, and let it infuse for eight days; then 
 strain and bottle it. 
 
 VINEGAR, FRUIT. 
 
 Take, pears, apples, or any other juicy fruit, 
 crush them well with a stamper, and put them 
 in a suitable tub. For every two bushels of 
 fruit add four gallons of boiling water. Stir 
 well, and set the preparation in a warm place 
 for a week, skimming off impurities whenever 
 fermentation arises._ At the end of that time 
 strain the vinegar through strong fine linen, 
 pressing the pulp. Put the juice in a barrel, 
 stir in a pint of yeast, and throw in a piece of 
 bread. Let the cask be quite full ; put the bung 
 in loosely, and throw over it a piece of flannel. 
 Set in a warm place for a month or six weeks, 
 when the vinegar will be fit for bottling. 
 
 VINEGAR, MADE WITH A VINEGAR PLANT. 
 
 Boil halt a pound of coarse brown sugar and 
 half a pound of treacle in two gallons of water, 
 stir it well, put it into a large jar, and when it 
 is lukewarm put on it a vinegar plant. Let it 
 stand in a warm place for two months or more, 
 when the liquor will have turned to vinegar. 
 Boil the vinegar, strain it, and bottle for use. 
 Keep it in a cool place. The vinegar plant is 
 a fungus which grows in the liquor in warmth 
 and darkness. If left without the liquor, it will 
 die. A plant may be purchased often at a 
 trifling cost ; market people are the most likely 
 to sell it. It will form in vinegar casks, and 
 when it is used, a young plant will grow on the 
 old one, which can be applied to the same 
 
 purpose. In country places it is often spoken 
 of as the " mother." 
 
 VINEGAR, MADE WITH A VINEGAR PLANT 
 
 (another way). 
 The vinegar plant may be thus produced. Take 
 a solution of a quarter of a pound of sugar and 
 half a pound of treacle in three (juarts of water, 
 simmer it, then pour it into a jar, cover it up, 
 and keep it in a warm place for six weeks. The 
 liquid will become vinegar, and on the top will 
 form a scum-like fungus, which is the vinegar 
 plant. By adding a piece of this to a similar 
 solution, the process of conversion into vinegar 
 will now take place in much less time. During 
 the process the plant thickens by the formation 
 of a new layer on its under surface, and by peel- 
 ing off this layer and using it in a fresh opera- 
 tion, the plant may be propagated indefinitely. 
 The vinegar plant is a fungus somewhat resem- 
 bling those known by the name of mould. " It 
 forms a fiocculent mass or web, which is tough 
 and crusWike, or leathery. It is found on de- 
 caying bodies, and in fluids undergoing the 
 acetous fermentation, which it greatly promotes, 
 and which, indeed, it very readily occasions — a 
 small piece placed in sugar and water soon 
 changing the liquid into vinegar." 
 
 VINEGAR, MALT. 
 
 In Great Britain vinegar is usually made from 
 malt. By mashing with hot water, one hundred 
 gallons of wort are extracted in less than two 
 hours from six bushels of malt. When the liquor 
 has fallen to the temperature of 75° Fahr., four 
 gallons of the barm of beer are added. After 
 thirty-six hours it is racked off into casks, placed 
 upright, having a false cover, pierced with holes, 
 fixed at about a foot from their bottom. On this 
 a considerable quantity of rape, or the refuse 
 from the makers of British wine, or otherwise a 
 quantity of low-priced raisins, is laid, the liquor 
 is turned into another barrel every twenty-four 
 hours, in which time it has begun to grow warm. 
 Sometimes the liquor ia fully fermented without 
 the rape, which is added towards the end to 
 impart fiavour. 
 
 VINEGAR, PRESERVING OF. 
 
 The methods of preserving vinegar are various. 
 It is a fact generally known that vinegar, of 
 whatever kind, will not keep long, but in the 
 course of a few weeks, especially in the warm 
 temperature of summer, grows turbid; its sur- 
 face is then covered with a thick mucilaginous 
 substance, during which time the acid dis- 
 appears by degrees, and at last is entirely lost; 
 hence the vinegar must very often be thrown 
 away. Now, in order to avoid this spoiling of 
 the vinegar, five methods are known. The first 
 is to prepare the vinegar very strong and sour at 
 first, by using more sugar or other materials. 
 It is well known that such vinegar will keep for 
 several years; but as few people prepare their 
 own vinegar, most persons contenting them- 
 selves with buying it at the shops, there are, of 
 course, but few who can make use of this 
 nlethod. The second method is to concentrate 
 ihe vinegar by freezing; after which a hole is 
 made in the crust of ice which covers it, through 
 which the part that is not congealed is let out, 
 and afterwards put into bottles. This manipu- 
 lation answers well enough ; but nearly one half 
 
VIN 
 
 1032 
 
 VIN 
 
 being lost, because that which forms the crust of 
 ice is nothing for the most part but water, good 
 economists dislike it. The third method is to 
 prevent the access of air by filling the bottles, 
 and keeping them corked. Though vinegar is 
 kept long by this method, it is not much em- 
 ployed, probably because it is troublesome to 
 fill up the bottle with clear vinegar from another 
 bottle every time you make use of part of its 
 contents. The fourth method is to distil the 
 vinegar, and thus leave behind the impurities. 
 Distilled vinegar does not suffer the least 
 change, though exposed to a warm air for years ; 
 but the expense of. distilling is often thought too 
 much. The following method of purifying and 
 preserving vinegar is the easiest, and answers 
 sufficiently. Put the vinegar into a well-tinned 
 vessel, and make it boil for a minute over a 
 strong fire, or the vinegar may be put into 
 bottles, and then into a kettle of water upon 
 the fire, and boiled; this will coagulate the 
 glutinous and mucilaginous matter which all 
 vinegar contains, and this may be separated by 
 itraining; after which the clear liquor should 
 be kept in well-corked bottles. Vinegar pre- 
 pared in this way keeps long without spoiling, 
 and should be so treated when intended for 
 pickling vegetables. 
 
 VINEGAR SAUCE FOR VENISON. 
 
 Put half a pint of vinegar into a well-tinned 
 and perfectly-clean saucepan, together with four 
 ounces of pounded loaf sugar ; simmer the sauce 
 gently till the sugar is dissolved, remove the 
 scum as it rises, strain through a napkin, and 
 serve in a tureen. 
 
 VINEGAR, SEASONED, FOR SALADS. 
 
 Take of shallots, tarragon, savory, and chives, 
 three ounces each, and of balm and mint one 
 ounce each ; dry these ingredients very carefully, 
 and bruise them. Put them in a wide-mouthed 
 bottle, pour upon them a gallon of vinegar, and 
 cork the bottle securely. Put it in a warm 
 place, leave it for two or three weeks till the 
 vinegar is strongly flavoured, pour off the 
 liquor, and press the herbs very dry with a 
 wooden spoon. Let the vinegar stand to settle 
 for a few hours, filter it, and put it into small 
 bottles. Cork closely, and store for use. 
 
 VINEGARS, FLAVOURED. 
 
 Vinegar may be flavoured with herbs and 
 spices, and a good store of these vinegars will 
 prove of great service in cookery. All that is 
 necessary is to procure the flavourini; ingredients 
 — such as celery or cress-seed, chillies or capsi- 
 cums, tarragon-leaves, shallots, etc. — to put 
 them in bottles, cover them with good cold 
 boiled vinegar, and stopper them closely. In a 
 week or two the vinegar will be sufficiently 
 flavoured, and all that will be then necessary is 
 to strain it off and bottle in small bottles for 
 use. In nine cases out of ten the flavouring in- 
 gredients may have a second, and even a third, 
 supply of vinegar poured upon them. Tarragon 
 ana chilli vinegars are particularly useful for 
 salads; while a few drops of garlic or shallot 
 vinegar added to a pint of gravy will impart a 
 particularly fine flavour. Herbs also, if boiled 
 for a short time in vinegar, will communicate 
 their flavour to it, and the flavour of some fruits, 
 when imparted to vinegar, is very delicious. 
 
 The acid thus made, when mixed with water 
 and slightly sweetened, constitutes a refreshing 
 summer beverage. 
 
 VINEGAR, STRENGTHENED. 
 
 When vinegar is not sufficiently strong, expose 
 it in an open situation during frosty weather. 
 When the surface is frozen, take the cake of ice 
 from the top of the vinegar. If this is melted, 
 it will be found to be water only. The vinegar, 
 being freed from so much water, will be more 
 acid than before, and may be frozen again and 
 again, until it becomes of the desired strength. 
 
 VINEGAR, SUGAR. 
 
 Take a sufficient quantity of water, and to 
 every three quarts put a pound of raw sugar. 
 Boil for half an hoiir, skimming if necessary. 
 Set the liquor in an earthen vessel to cool; 
 when not more than lukewarm throw in a slice 
 of bread with yeast strewed over it thickly on 
 both sides. Ferment for two days, then pour 
 the liquor into a barrel which has previously 
 been well riiised out with vinegar. Paste over 
 the bung-hole a piece of brown paper, perforate 
 this with a fork, so as to leave little air-holes, 
 and set the barrel in a dry, warm place. 
 
 VINEGAR, WHOLESOMENESS OF. 
 
 Vinegar in small quantities is a grateful and 
 salutary stimulus to the stomach, correcting 
 the putrescency of animal food, and the flatu- 
 lency of vegetable. Its use, however, is im- 
 proper in valetudinary cases, especially for 
 gouty persons. Pickles are merely vegetable 
 receptacles for vinegar, but the vegetable being 
 hardened by the acid renders it somewhat diffi- 
 cult of digestion, and therefore vinegar in the 
 form of pickles is not much to be recommended. 
 We may add on this subject the remarks of Dr. 
 Paris in his work on " Diet." " Vinegar," he 
 says, " in small quantities, is a grateful and 
 wholesome stimulant ; it will often check the 
 chemical fermentation of certain substances in 
 the stomach, and prevent vegetable matter in 
 its raw state from inducing flatulency; but its 
 use requires caution, and in some morbid states 
 of the system it is obviously improper. Patty 
 and gelatinous substances frequently appear to 
 be rendered more digestible in the stomach by 
 the addition of vinegar, although it is difficult 
 to offer either a chemical or physiological ex- 
 planation of the fact. The native vegetable 
 acids may also be occasionally substituted ; the 
 addition of lemon-juice to rich and gelatinous 
 soups renders them less liable to disagree with 
 the stomach; and the custom of eating apple- 
 sauce with pork is undoubtedly indebted for its 
 origin to the same cause." 
 
 VINEGAR WINE, FRENCH METHOD OF MAKING. 
 
 The following is the French method of making 
 vinegar. The wine destined for vinegar is mixed 
 in a large tun with a quantity of wine lees, and 
 the whole being transferred into cloth sacks 
 placed within a large iron-bound vat, the liquid 
 matter is forced through the sacks by superin- 
 cumbent pressure. What passes through is put 
 into large casks set upright, having a small aper- 
 ture in their top. In these it is exposed to the 
 heat of the sun in summer, or to that of a stove 
 in winter. Fermentation supervenes in a few 
 days. If the heat should rise too high, it is 
 
VIO 
 
 1033 
 
 VOL 
 
 lowered by cool air and the addition of fresh 
 "Wine. In the skilful regulation of the fermen- 
 tative temperature chiefly consists the art of 
 making good wine vinegar. In summer the pro- 
 cess is generally completed in a fortnight, in 
 winter double the time is requisite. The vine- 
 gar is then run off into barrels, which contain 
 several chips of birchwood. In about a fort- 
 night it is found to be clarified, and is then fit 
 for the market. It must be kept in close casks. 
 VIOLET TEA. 
 
 This is a soothing beverage for persons suffer- 
 ing from bronchitis and similar affections. Put 
 a tea-spoonful of dried violets in a jar, and pour 
 upon them half a pint of boiling water. Let 
 them infuse for five minutes, strain the liquor, 
 sweeten with honey, and it will be fit for use. 
 
 VIRGINIA PUDDING. 
 
 Butter a plain quart pudding-mould rather 
 thickly, then stick dried cherries, fine raisins, or 
 strips of candied peel in regular rows on the 
 inside, place a slice of soaked bread-crumb over 
 the fruit, and three-parts fill the inside with 
 alternate layers of thin bread and butter and 
 currants and grated nutmeg. Pour in as much 
 custard as the bread will absorb, let the pudding 
 soak for an hour, and steam it over boiling 
 water, or bake in a moderate oven. Turn it out 
 before serving, and send sweet sauce to table in 
 a tureen. Time to steam, one hour and a half. 
 Probable cost. Is. Suflicient for five or six 
 persons. 
 
 VOLAGE SAUCE. 
 
 Pound well in a mortar six anchovies, six shal- 
 lots, four cloves of garlic, half an ounce of 
 cayenne pepper, and add one pint of vinegar. 
 Put all together into a jar, let it stand ten 
 days, strain it through muslin, and bottle for 
 use. It is much improved by keeping. 
 
 VOLAILLE, PUREE DE. 
 
 Mince very finely the white part of a cold fowl 
 or turkey, then pound it in a mortar, put in two 
 or three spoonfuls of white sauce, and pass it 
 through a sieve, adding a little salt and white 
 pepper, and warm the whole ; it may be served 
 up with the legs grilled. It should not be too 
 thin, but can be made the proper consistency 
 by a greater or smaller quantity of white sauce 
 or cream. Garnish with fried bread or paste cut 
 into shapes. It may also be served up in a 
 casserole or wall of rice and mashed potatoes, or 
 with poached eggs. 
 
 VOL-AU-VENT. 
 
 A vol-au-vent presents one of the handsomest 
 forms in which the remains of dishes can be 
 served. It is generally filled with a mince, or 
 ragoiit, or fricassee — or whatever other prepara- 
 tion may be chosen — of cooked meat ; qnd after 
 the vol-au-vent case is made, there is abundant 
 opportunity for the cook to display her skill, 
 either in the richness and delicacy, or in the sa- 
 voury nature of its contents. A vol-au-vent can 
 be made successfully only with the lightest puff- 
 paste. Full directions are given for making this 
 under Paste, Puff, ob FEUiiiLETAGE. It should 
 be remembered that the puff-paste of which a 
 vol-au-vent is made will be much better if it is 
 prepared an hour or two before it is wanted, 
 and placed in a, cool situation till required. 
 
 If the puff-paste is not exceedingly light, the 
 vol-au-vent will not rise properly, and so will 
 have a very bad appearance. In rolling it, care 
 must be taken to keep it perfectly square and 
 even at the ends, as unless this is done the 
 pastry cannot rise evenly. The pastry for a vol- 
 au-vent ought to have six turns, and five 
 minutes should be allowe4 to elapse between 
 each turn. After it has been turned five times, 
 brush the pastry over with lemon-juice, and 
 when it is doubled for the last time, fold it in 
 such a way that, when finished, it will be the 
 exact size of the inside of the dish in which it 
 is to be served, and a little more than an inch 
 thick. Cut it evenly all round with a knife 
 that has been made hot in water, so as not to 
 drag the pastry. Place a stewpan lid, or any 
 other shape of a suitable size, within an inch 
 and a half of the outer edge of the pastry, and 
 with a sharp knife make an incision a quarter 
 of an inch deep all round the edge of the lid. 
 
 VOL-AU-VENTS. 
 
 Press the inner circle away from the outer one 
 with the point of the knife to prevent them 
 closing again; this inner circle, when baked, 
 will form the cover of the vol-au-vent. Put 
 the vol-au-vent in a well-heated oven ; in half 
 an hour or three-quarters of an hour, if it 
 should appear baked through, take it out of the 
 oven, lift up the cover with the point of a 
 knife where it has been marked, and scoop out 
 the soft crummy centre without at all injuring 
 the walls of the case. It will be evident that 
 if it should be injure,d in this way, the rich 
 sauce of the ragoiit with which it is filled will 
 ooze through the sides and spoil its appearance. 
 Put it in the oven a few minutes longer to dry 
 itj fill with the savoury mince, put the cover 
 on, and serve on a napkin. Careful attention 
 should be paid to the condition of the oven 
 in which a vol-au-vent is baked ; if it is not 
 well heated, the pastry_ cannot possibly rise; if 
 the heat is too fierce, 'the surface will be set 
 before the heat has penetrated through the 
 pastry, and this also will keep it from rising. 
 When it has risen a couple of inches, and before 
 it acquires any. colour, cover the vol-au-vent 
 with paper to keep it from browning too quickly. 
 If accidentally the walls of the vol-au-vent 
 should receive any injury, a little piece of pastry 
 should be stuck upon the thin place with 
 white of egg. The appearance of the vol-au-vent 
 will be improved if it is brushed over with egg 
 after it has risen in the oven. Time to bake the 
 vol-au-vent, half an hour to three-quarters of 
 an hour. Sufficient, three-quarters of a pound 
 to one pound of puff-paste for a good-sized 
 vol-au-vent. 
 
VOL, 
 
 1034 
 
 VOL 
 
 VOL-AU-VENT {k la Financiere). 
 
 Prepare a vol-au-vent case according to the 
 instructions already given, bake it, lift off the 
 cover, and dry the inside. Fill it with a 
 iinajioiere ragofit (see RagcCtt, Fikancieee), 
 ornament the top with crayfish, cockscombs, 
 and mushrooms; or, if preferred, simply place 
 the cover on the top of the vol-au-vent, and 
 serve. The ragoiit may be prepared as follows. 
 Put into a stewpau equal quantities of sweet- 
 bread, forcemeat balls, and mushrooms, all 
 cooked, with a few sliced truffles and cockscombs 
 if liked. Cover with thick and rich brown sauce 
 made from game, and add a glassful of sherry or 
 Madeira. Let the ragout simmer very gently 
 till it is heated throughout, and it will be 
 ready for the vol-au-vent. Time, three minutes 
 to heat the ragout. 
 VOL-AU-VENT (a la Normande). 
 
 Make a vol-au-vent case according to the in- 
 structions already given, bake it, lift off 
 the cover, and have ready to fill it a good 
 ragoiit. Put on the lid, and serve the vol- 
 au-vent on a dish covered with a napkin. The 
 ragout may be prepared as follows. Fillet a 
 large sole, put it on a buttered dish, and 
 sprinkle upon it a tea-spoonful of very finely- 
 minced onions which have been previously par- 
 boiled. Pour upon it as much milk or light wine 
 as will barely cover it, and bake till done 
 enough. Divide it into neat slices of uniform 
 size, and put these in a stewpan with an equal 
 quantity of oysters which have been plumped in 
 their liquor, mussels which have been shaken 
 over the fire in a stewpan till their shells opened, 
 mushrooms which have been stewed in butter, 
 and pieces of the crumb of bread about the size 
 of a crown piece which have been fried in 
 butter until they became lightly browned. Take 
 as much veloute sauce as will cover the in- 
 gredients, put it into a saucepan, and stir in 
 the oyster liquor, the mussel broth, and the 
 gravy from the sole. Let it simmer till very 
 thick. Beat the yolks of two eggs in a basin, 
 mix a spoonful or two of the sauce with them, 
 and add them to the rest. Simmer the sauce 
 for a minute or two without allowing it to boil, 
 and pour it over the fish. Let all heat very 
 gently together for three or four minutes, ai d 
 the ragout will be ready for the vol-au-vcnt. 
 
 VOL-AU-VENT OF LAMBS' TAILS. 
 
 Make a vol-au-vent ca^e according to the di- 
 rections already given. Having scalded half a 
 dozen lambs' tails, cut them into inch lengths, 
 put them into a stewpan, with a bunch of 
 green onions, a few sprigs of parsley, a blade 
 of mace, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter 
 or white fat of veal. Cover them with boiling 
 water, and let them stew till quite tender. Then 
 put them on a napkin, wipe all the grease 
 from them, put them into a little bechamel, give 
 them a boil up, and just before serving them 
 put into the sauce two yolks of eggs beaten up 
 with a spoonful of cream. Lay the tails in the 
 vol-au-vent case and pour the sauce over them. 
 Put some boiled sprigs of parsley into the sauce 
 a moment before serving. 
 
 VOL-AU-VENTS, GREEN GOOSEBERRY. 
 
 Prepare some small vol-au-vcnts in the usual 
 way, and bake them. Take off the covers, scoop 
 
 out the inside, and let them get cold. When 
 wanted, fill them with a compote of green 
 gooseberries. Place the covers upon them, or, 
 if preferred, put a little whipped cream, or 
 Devonshire cream, in their places ; serve on a 
 neatly-folded napkin. The gooseberries may be 
 prepared as follows. Top and tail a pint of 
 green gooseberries, and put them into boiling 
 water for two minutes, then throw them into 
 cold water with which has been mixed a table- 
 spoonful of vinegar (this is to restore their 
 colour). Boil six ounces of refined sugar in half 
 a pint of water for ten minutes, put in the 
 gooseberries, and let them simmer gently till 
 tender but unbroken. Strain them, and if 
 necessary put the syrup back again, and let , 
 it boil a few minutes till it is very thick, then 
 pour it over the fruit. When cold it will be 
 ready for the vol-au-vents. Time, ten to fifteen 
 minutes to simmer the gooseberries. 
 
 VOL-AU-VENTS, ORANGE. 
 
 Prepare the vol-au-vents, and bake them in 
 the usual way. Let them get cold. Pare the 
 rind very thinly from three or four large 
 oranges, put it into a saucepan with four ounces 
 of loaf sugar and half a pint of water, and boil 
 to a clear syrup. Strip the white skin from the 
 oranges, remove the pips, and divide the fruit 
 into quarters. Thicken Hie syrup by pouring it 
 when boiling upon a dessert-spoonful of arrow- 
 root which has been mixed smoothly with a 
 little cold water, and stirring it well. Add a 
 little irandy and two or three drops of cochi- 
 neal, and pour the syrup upon the fruit. When 
 cold it will be ready for the vol-au-vents. 
 
 VOL-AU-VENTS, SMALL 
 
 For small vol-au-ve"nts, make the pastry, and 
 prepare the cases according to the instructions 
 already given for making a large vol-au-vent. 
 Boll the pastry out to the thickness of half an 
 inch. Two pastry-cutters will be needed to 
 cut out the lids and bottoms of the vol-au- 
 vents — the smaller one the size of half a 
 crown, the larger one double the size. If these 
 cutters are fluted, so much the better. Bake the 
 vol-au-vents in a moderately-heated oven ; when 
 done enough, lift off the covers, and scoop out 
 the insides as before; dry the pastry, and fill 
 the cavity with any of the varieties of meat 
 which can be prepared for the purpose. Put on 
 the covers, and serve the vol-au-vents, hot or 
 cold, on a neatly-folded napkin. Time to bake 
 small vol-au-vents, ten to twelve minutes. 
 
 VOL-AU-VENTS, SWEET (k la Parislenne). 
 
 Make a few small vol-au-vents, and have some 
 good jam or stewed fruit ready to fill them. As 
 soon as they are taken from the oven, sprinkle 
 finely-powdered white sugar thickly on the 
 edges, and hold a red-hot shovel over them till 
 the sugar melts. Fill them with the fruit, pile 
 whipped cream on the top, and serve. Time, 
 ten or twelve minutes to bake the vol-au-vents. 
 
 VOL-AU-VENTS, TO FILL. 
 
 A vol-au-vent is simply a case in which are 
 served delicate and savoury ragfouts of cooked 
 meat, fish, etc. When preparing these, it is 
 very important that the cook should make the 
 sauces in which the meat is heated very thick. 
 Unless this is done, the liquor will be in danger 
 
VOL 
 
 1035 
 
 WAF 
 
 of oozing through the crust, and this will 
 entirely spoil the appearance of the vol-au-veut. 
 Also the meat should be only simmered in the 
 sauce; if it is allowed to boil, it will in all 
 probability be hard and unpalatable. 
 
 VOL-AU-VENT, WITH CREAM. 
 
 Bake six or eight small vol-au-vents ; take off 
 the covers, scoop out the insides, dry the cases, 
 and let them become quite cold. Fill them with 
 rich jam, or with fresh fruit stewed in a thick 
 syrup, and place upon the top some nicely- 
 flavoured whipped cream. Garnish the edges -of 
 the vol-au-vents with dots of bright-coloured 
 fruit jelly. 
 
 W 
 
 WAFER BISCUITS. 
 
 Mix an ounce and a half of finely-sifted sugar 
 with half a pound of flour. Eub in a small slice 
 of fresh butter, and work the mixture into a 
 stiff paste with the well-whisked white of a fresh 
 egg and a little cream. Cover the paste, and 
 leave it in a cool place for a short time. Divide 
 it into small portions of equal size, and roll 
 these into rounds as thin as possible, and about 
 two and a half inches in diameter. Bake on 
 buttered tins in a brisk oven. Time to bake 
 the wafers, three or four minutes. 
 
 WAFER BISCUITS (another way). 
 
 Mix thoroughly two ounces of sifted sugar 
 with two ounces of fine flour. Add a drop of 
 oil of cinnamon and a, drop of oil of cloves, or 
 if preferred a little grated nutmeg, and the 
 well-whisked whites of two eggs. Make the 
 mixture into a thin liquid paste. Butter some 
 tinned baking-sheets ; put on these, four inches 
 apart, portions of the batter, the size of a 
 walnut, and with the finger spread them into 
 rounds the size of the top of a tumbler, and 
 almost touching each other. Bake in a brisk 
 oven till they are lightly browned. Take them 
 up when soft, and either roll them upon a 
 round piece of wood or turn them to the shape 
 of buns. Serve with custards or ices. Time to 
 bake the wafers, three or four minutes. 
 
 WAFER BISCUITS, ALMOND. 
 
 Blanch, peel, and pound till smooth four 
 ounces of Jordan almonds. Mix with them two 
 ounces of powdered and sifted sugar, and 
 moisten the mixture with the white of an egg. 
 Heat an untinned baking-sheet, and rub it 
 over with pure white wax. Let it get cold, then 
 place on it, four inches apart from each other, 
 portions of the paste, the size of a penny-piece. 
 Flatten these with a knife till they almost 
 touch one another and are about the size of the 
 top of a tumbler. Blanch and chop two ounces 
 of almonds, and mix them with an ounce of 
 sugar and a tea-spoonful of white of egg. 
 Sprinkle this on the surface of the wafers, and 
 bake in a gentle oven. When sufficiently baked, 
 roll them whilst warm round a piece of wood, 
 and leave them till crisp. 
 
 WAFER CAKES. 
 
 Wafer cakes are excellent tea-cakes, and they 
 do not take long to make, although a little 
 nractice is required to make them successfully. 
 
 Beat three eggs quite light; wash rather less 
 than a quarter of a pound of butter, so as to 
 extract the salt from it, and mix with it a 
 quarter of a pound of sifted sugar; add to the 
 mixture the beaten eggs, a tea-spoonful of rose- 
 water, and enough sifted flour to make a thin 
 batter. Stir with a wooden spoon till the batter 
 is perfectly smooth and so light that it will 
 break when it falls against the side of the 
 vessel. Heat the w'af er-iTons ; not too hot, 
 however, or the batter will burn. Grease the 
 iron with butter tied in a linen rag, the rag- 
 being twice doubled; fill the iron with the 
 batter, and then close it. Place it on the fire 
 so that both sides will heat at once; if this 
 cannot be done, turn the iron frequently. If 
 properly managed the batter will be cooked in 
 about two minutes. 
 
 WAFER PAPER, TO PUT UNDER CAKES 
 
 (a German recipe). 
 Take fine flour, to which put as much water 
 as will make it beat smooth. Then by degrees 
 add as much more as will bring it to a thin 
 paste. Eub a baking-plate with wax, heat it, 
 wipe off the wax, hold the tin again over the 
 fire, then pour on it a spoonful of the flour and 
 water, or as much as will cover the bottom 
 thinly, and bake it merely so that it becomes 
 dry and white. 
 
 WAFER PUDDINGS. 
 
 Beat an ounce of butter to cream, and mix 
 with it a table-spoonful of flour, a table-spoon- 
 ful of cream, and the well-beaten yolks of two 
 eggs. A little flavouring may be added if 
 liked. Butter some patty-pans, half fill them 
 with the batter, and cover with the whites of 
 the eggs whisked to a firm froth. Sprinkle a 
 little powdered white sugar upon them, and 
 bake in a well-heated oven. When done enough, 
 turn them upon a hot napkin, and send jam 
 or sweet sauce to table with them. Time to 
 bake the puddings, a quarter of an hour. 
 Probable cost, 63. Sufficient for four or five 
 puddings. 
 
 WAFERS. 
 
 There are many ways of making wafers, but 
 however made, they must be baked in the same 
 way — that is, in irons made for the purpose, and 
 called wafer-irons. These irons should be used 
 as follows. Heat an iron on both sides over a 
 (moderate fire. Eub it inside with la little 
 butter, put a tea-spoonful of the wafer batter 
 into it, close the iron upon this almost imme- 
 diately, and^put it on the fire. When cooked 
 upon one side, turn it upon the other. Cut 
 away the superfluous paste round the edges, 
 and roll the wafer on a stick while it is still 
 warm. Put in another spoonful of batter, and 
 repeat until all the batter is used. Keep the 
 wafers in a tin box in a djrjr place till wanted. 
 They are generally served with the sweets. 
 
 WAFERS, ALMOND. 
 
 Mix thoroughly equal quantities of dry flour 
 and sifted sugar. With every four table- 
 spoonfuls of this mixture that it is intended to 
 use work in two well-beaten eggs, two ounces 
 and a half of chopped almonds or pistachio nuts, 
 a small quantity of fresh yeast, and as much 
 cream as will make a thick batter. Let the 
 
WAF 
 
 1036 
 
 WAF 
 
 mixture settle, and bake the wafers in the usual 
 way. 
 
 WAFERS, DUTCH. 
 
 Put seven ounces of flour upon a pasteboard, 
 and work it to a smooth stiff paste with three 
 ounces of butter, the grated rind of an orange, 
 five ounces of powdered sugar, and one egg. 
 Divide the paste into pieces the size of a pigeon's 
 egg, form these to an oval shape, and bake in an 
 oval wafer-iron. 
 
 WAFERS, FLEMISH. 
 
 Rub a large lump of sugar upon the rind of 
 half a fresh lemon tiTl the yellow part is taken 
 off, then crush it to powder. Put four ounces 
 of flour into a bowl, mix with it a pinch of salt 
 and the flavoured sugar, and add gradually a 
 quarter of a pint of lukewarm milk and a table- 
 spoonful of fresh yeast. Work the mixture to a 
 soft dough, cover it, and put it on the hearth 
 to rise. Work in a quarter of a pound of fresh 
 butter beaten to cream, the yolks of three eggs 
 well beaten, and, lastly, the well-whisked whites 
 of the eggs. Let the dough rise till it is double 
 its original size. Bake the wafers in the usual 
 way. Put them while hot upon a dish, and sift 
 powdered white sugar thickly over them. Time 
 to cook the wafers, three or four minutes. 
 
 WAFERS, FRUIT, FOR DESSERT. 
 
 Take any kind of ripe, well-flavoured fruit. 
 Put it into an earthen jar, cover closely, and 
 set it in a pan of boiling water. Keep the 
 water boiling quickly round it till the juice 
 flows freely from the fruit. Strain it through 
 a jelly-bag, and with each pint of filtered juice 
 mix a pound of powdered white sugar and the 
 white of an egg. Beat the mixture till it forms 
 a stiff paste. Spread it in a thin layer upon 
 buttered paper, and bake in a gentle oven till 
 it is dry enough to leave the paper. Turn it 
 upside down, and put it again in the oven until 
 it is perfectly dry. Stamp it in shapes, and 
 place these in layers between sheets of white 
 paper in a tin box. 
 
 WAFERS, GENEVA. 
 
 Beat three ounces of fresh butter to cream. 
 Add two heaped table-spoonfuls of powdered 
 sugar, two well-whisked eggs, and, very gradu- 
 ally, three ounces of dried flour. Beat the batter • 
 till it is smooth. Butter a baking-sheet, and 
 drop on it at regular intervals a tea-spoonful 
 of the mixture. Bake the wafers in a gentle 
 oven. When they are set, but still quite soft, 
 take them out, and turn them to the shape of 
 horns. Put a little piece of bread into the wide 
 end to keep them in shape, and let them remain 
 in the oven till crisp. When they are cold, take 
 out the bread, and just before serving the 
 wafers fill them with jam and whipped cream. 
 Sufficient for- a moderate-sized dish. Probable 
 cost. Is. Time, altogether, about twenty 
 minutes. 
 
 WAFERS, ICE. 
 
 Mix together half a pound of flour and iialf 
 a pound of powdered sugar. Add three well- 
 beaten eggs and a few drops of essence of 
 vanilla, and beat the mixture till it is quite 
 smooth. Melt half a pound of fresh butter, 
 work this into the batter, and beat it again. 
 Add very gradually a quart of milk. Let the 
 
 batter remain untouched for an hour, and bake 
 the wafers in the usual way. 
 
 WAFERS, WITH JELLY. 
 
 Beat a quarter of a pound of fresh butter 
 to cream. Add half a pound of powdered sugar, 
 two eggs well beaten, a quarter of a pint of 
 milk, a table-spoonful of brandy, a table-spoon- 
 ful of orange-flower water, half a nutmeg, 
 grated, half a tea-spoonful of powdered cinna- 
 mon, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of baking-pow- 
 der dissolved in a little hot water, and as much 
 flour as will make a very thick smooth batter. 
 Beat the mixture well. Butter a large baking- 
 sheet, and spread the batter upon it in a layer 
 not more than an eighth of an inch thick. Bake 
 in a moderately-heated oven till it- is set. Cut 
 it in halves ; spread a little jelly upon one half, 
 and lay the other half upon it. When cold, 
 cut it into fingers with a sharp knife. Pile 
 these in a glass dish, and serve. Time to bake 
 the batter, about a quarter of an hour. Prob- 
 able cost, exclusive of the jelly. Is. 2d. Suf- 
 ficient for a good-sized dish. 
 
 WAFFLES. 
 
 Take a tea-cupful of fresh butter, put it into 
 a large bowl, and beat it to cream. Add three 
 cupfuls of sugar, a pinch of salt, half a nutmeg, 
 grated, a few drops of essence of lemon, three 
 well-beaten eggs, half a tea-spoonful of baking- 
 powder dissolved in a tearspoonful of milk, 
 and as much flour as will make a thick batter. 
 Beat the mixture thoroughly. Heat the waffle- 
 irons, rub them over with butter, and put into 
 them one or two large spoonfuls of the mixture. 
 Be careful to leave room for rising; close them, 
 and put them over hot coals. Let them remain 
 for six or eight minutes, then turn them over, 
 and leave them a few minutes longer : if on 
 opening them the cake is nicely browned, and 
 will leave the irons easily, it is done enough. 
 Probable cost. Is. 6d. for this quantity. 
 
 WAFFLES (another way). 
 
 Dissolve half an ounce of butter in a pint 
 of milk; beat two eggs in a bowl, and add to 
 them gradually the buttered milk and as much 
 flour as will make a stiff batter. Stir in a wine- 
 glassful of fresh yefast and a little salt. Let the 
 batter rise till light. Heat the waffle-irons, 
 and bake the waffles in the usual way. Butter 
 them, and if liked serve with sugar and pow- 
 dered cinnamon. 
 
 WAFFLES (a Danish recipe). 
 
 Take one pound of fresh butter, and beat it 
 till it creams. Add the yolks of six eggs, a 
 quarter of a pound of sugar, one pound of flour, 
 a quart of warm milk, and lastly the whites of 
 the eggs beaten to snow. Butter the waffle- 
 irons each time before filling them, and heat 
 them before using. When baked strew sifted 
 sugar over the waffles. This quantity will make 
 twenty-four waffles. 
 
 WAFFLES (a German recipe). 
 
 Mix one pound and a half of flour with the 
 same quantity of clarified butter, add the yolks 
 of twelve eggs one by one, then a little grated 
 nutmeg, a few grains of salt, two handfuls of 
 pounded almonds with a, few "bitter ones among 
 them, four or five spoonfuls of yeast, nearly a 
 pint of milk, and lastly the whites of the eggs 
 
WAF 
 
 1037 
 
 WAL 
 
 beaten to snow. Mix and beat well togetheij 
 then leave the mixture for two hours before pro- 
 ceeding further. Have ready the waffle-irons, 
 heat them in the fire, and rub them over with 
 butter ; pour into them a ladleful of the batter, 
 and bake of a fine yellow. The irons must be 
 buttered each time before any batter is poured 
 in. Strew pounded sugar and cinnamon over 
 the waffles after they are done. 
 WAFFLES, MADE WITH YEAST. 
 
 Beat three fresh eggs to a light froth; mix 
 with them a pint of liScewarm milk and a large 
 table-spoonful of fresh yeast, and add half a 
 nutmeg, grated, a pinch of salt, an ounce of 
 butter, and as much fiour as will make a light 
 batter. Put this in a warm place, and let it rise 
 for two or three hours. Bake the cake in waffle- 
 irons in the usual way (see Wafples). 
 
 WAFFLES, MADE WITHOUT YEAST OR SODA. 
 
 Take a pint and a quarter of flour, and as 
 much additional flour as will go into a wine- 
 glass; mix with it half a tea-spoonful of salt. 
 Dissolve two ounces of butter m a pint of hot 
 milk, and let the milk cool. Beat the yolks of 
 three eggs in a bowl, and add to them the milk 
 and the flour alternately. Whisk the whites 
 of the eggs separately to a firm frotii, and stir 
 them lightly into the batter. Do not beat the 
 batter after the white? are added, but bake the 
 waffles immediately. 
 
 WAFFLES, RICE. 
 
 Boil half a pint of rice till soft ; put it into a 
 bowl, and add very gradually three-quarters of 
 a pound of flour, half a tea-spoonful of salt, a 
 pint and a quarter of milk, and the well-beaten 
 yolks of two eggs. Beat the mixture tho- 
 roughly. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff 
 froth, add them to the batter, and beat it 
 again. Take a small quantity of this mixture, 
 and pour it backwards and forwards from one 
 cup to another from a good height for a few 
 minutes ; then bake immediately. 
 
 WALES', PRINCE OF, SAUCE FOR SALADS AND 
 BROILED FISH. 
 
 Take a small handful of burnet, chervil, 
 chives, and tarragon-leaves, throw them into 
 boiling water, and boil them for a few minutes ; 
 ttien put them into the corner of a napkin, and 
 press the moisture thoroughly from them. Put 
 the pulp into a mortar with two anchovies 
 filleted, two hard-boiled yolks of eggs, a des- 
 sert-spoonful of capers, a dessert-spoonful of 
 unmixed mustard, and the yolk of a raw egg. 
 Pound these ingredients to a smooth paste, then 
 add (first by drops, and afterwards by tea- 
 spoonfuls) a quarter of a pint of Lucca oil, 
 beating the sauce well between every addition. 
 Add last of all and very gradually about two 
 table-spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar; rub the 
 sauce through a hair sieve to make it smooth, 
 and it will be ready. Time, about three-quarters 
 of an hour to prepare the sauce. Probable cost, 
 Is. Sufficient for rive or six persons. 
 
 WALNUT. 
 
 The walnut is now cultivated generally 
 throughout Europe. " On the Continent," says 
 Selby in his " History of Forest Trees," " the 
 fruit is in great demand, and, indeed, beoomes 
 in many parts almost one of the necessaries of 
 
 life. It constitutes a considerable portion of 
 the food of the inhabitants of certain districts, 
 and also affords an oil little inferior when first 
 drawn to that of the olive, for which in many 
 parts of France it is the substitute in all culin- 
 ary matters. The worst feature of the oil is 
 that it soon turns rancid. The refuse matter, 
 after the oil is extracted, is eaten in Switzer- 
 land by poor people, under the name of 'pain 
 
 WALNUT CAKES. 
 
 amer. The nuts are used in various ways, and 
 at various stages of their growth. When young 
 and green they make an excellent and well- 
 known pickle, as well as savoury ketchup, and 
 a liqueur is also made from them whilst in this 
 state. Before they are fully ripe, and whilst 
 the kernel is yet soft, walnuts are eaten in 
 France en cerneaux — a way of preparing them 
 with a seasoning of salt, jiepper, vinegar, and 
 shallots. About the end of September or the 
 beginning of October they are fully ripe, and 
 are then eaten in great quantities, being both 
 wholesome and easy of digestion, so long as 
 they remain fresh and part freely from the skin 
 which envelops the kernel." 
 
 WALNUT CAKES. 
 
 Sift well together one pound of fiour and 
 a tea-spoonful and a half of baking-powder. 
 Beat half a pound of butter to a cream, and 
 add to it three-quarters of a pound of castor 
 sugar. Add the well-beaten yolks of six eggs. 
 Take half a pound of shelled walnuts and break 
 them into small pieces, stir these into the 
 butter, etc., add the grated rind of a, lemon, 
 a few drops of vanilla essence, beat well to- 
 gether, and then sift in the flour, adding a 
 little milk at times to prevent its becoming too 
 stiff. Last of all, stir in quickly and lightly 
 the whites of the eggs beaten to a very stiff 
 froth. Have ready a cake-tin lined with 
 greased paper; half fill it with the mixture, 
 and bake it in a steady oven one and a half to 
 two hours. Turn it out on a sieve to cool, then 
 spread soft icing over; halve or quarter a 
 few walnuts, scatter them over the top while 
 the icing is soft, and let it set before using. 
 
 WALNUT CREAMS. 
 
 Take one pound of shelled walnuts, the white 
 of one egg, one pound of icing sugar, and a 
 
WAL 
 
 1038 
 
 WAS 
 
 table-spoonful of water. Add the water to the 
 white of egg. Stir in sufficient sugar to make 
 a very stiff paste, and flavour with a few drops 
 of vanilla. Mould into round balls the size of 
 a small marble. Divide the kernels of the nuts 
 into two, and, when you have formed the balls, 
 press half a nut on each side. Leave them 
 several hours in a cool place to harden. 
 
 WALNUT JAM. 
 
 Take fifty walnuts in which the shell has not 
 begun to form, prick them all over, and boil 
 in water till they are quite soft. Strain the 
 water off, put a clove in each, and strew over 
 them two ounces of bruised ginger. Make a 
 syrup of half a pint of water to two and a half 
 pounds of coarse brown sugar, stirring on the 
 fire till all is melted ; then put in the walnuts, 
 and boil for twenty minutes, stirring to prevent 
 them burning. This jam forms an excellent 
 laxative, and may be elevated to the position 
 of a pleasant domestic medicine. 
 
 WALNUT KETCHUP. 
 
 Take a hundred young green walnuts, and 
 pound them until well bruised. Put them in 
 a jar with half a pound of chopped shallots, 
 two quarts of vinegar, a head or two of garlic, 
 and half a pound of salt, and stir every day 
 for ten days. Tlien strain the liquor, and boil 
 it with two ounces of anchovies, two ounces of 
 whole pepper, half an ounce of cloves, and a 
 quarter of an ounce of mace for thirty to forty 
 minutes, skimming well. Strain, and when 
 cold pour it free from the sediment into small 
 dry bottles, and cork securely. 
 
 WALNUTS, PICKLED. 
 
 Scald the walnuts, which for pickling must 
 be used before they have a hard shell. This 
 scalding will enable you easily to rub off the 
 skin. Put them into a brine of salt and water 
 strong enough to float an egg. Let them remain 
 three days, then shift them into fresh brine, 
 and let them soak for three days longer. Now 
 shift them once more into fresh brine, and let 
 them soak for four days. They are then fit for 
 the jar. Have ready prepared equal parts of 
 black pepper, Jamaica pepper, allspice, and 
 ginger; a quarter of a pint of cloves, the same 
 quantity of mace, and a pint and a half of 
 white mustard-seed. Beat these ingredients to- 
 gether in a mortar, but do not pound them fine. 
 Put the walnuts into the jar by layers, and over 
 each layer strew some of the mixed seasoning. 
 Then have ready some vinegar boiled with 
 sliced horse-radish and ginger, and cover the 
 walnuts with it. When quite cold, cork and 
 cover it with the jar bladder. This pickle is 
 much improved by the addition of a little garlic 
 and tarragon boiled with the vinegar. 
 
 WALNUTS, PICKLED (to be made from the begin- 
 ning to the middle of July). 
 Be very particular to gather the green wal- 
 nuts when they are in a proper state for pick- 
 ling — neither too soon nor too late. If they are 
 too young, they will dissolve in the pickle; if 
 too old, they will resist the action of the 
 vinegar. They ought to be taken before the 
 shells have begun to form ; and the test of their 
 fitness is that a large pin can, without diffi- 
 culty, be pushed through them in every direc- 
 
 tion. If once the shell can be felt they are no 
 longer fit for pickling. Wipe the walnuts 
 separately with a coarse cloth, put them into 
 an earthen pan, and pour upon them a brine 
 strong enough to fioat a fresh egg. This brine 
 may be made by boiling six ounces of salt with 
 each quart of water. It should be skimmed 
 carefully, and allowed to get cold before being 
 put to the walnuts. Lay a thin board upon the 
 walnuts to keep them under the brine. Turn 
 them about vidth a wooden spoon every day, 
 and let them remain for six days; then diiain 
 them, and pour fresh brine upon them. Leave 
 them from three to six days longer, drain in 
 a colander, and put them in the sun in a single 
 layer, on a large dish covered with coarse sack- 
 cloth. They will turn black in a few hours. 
 Turn them over once or twice, handling them 
 gently. Boil as much vinegar as will entirely 
 cover the walnuts, with spices, in the propor- 
 tion of two ounces of whole ginger bruised, 
 two ounces of black pepper, four blades of 
 mace, two ounces of mustard-seed, eight cloves 
 stuck into four shallots or small onions, and a 
 tea-spoonful of salt, to half a gallon of vinegar. 
 A dessert-spoonful of scraped horse-radish and 
 one or two capsicum.'; are sometimes added, 
 but they destroy the flavour of the pickle. 
 Boil the vinegar for ten minutes, put the wal- 
 nuts into unglazed jars or wide-mouthed bottles, 
 and when the vinegar is cool pour it upon them, 
 and divide the spices equally amongst the 
 bottles. When cold, tie them over with moist- 
 ened bladder or with strong brown paper. As 
 the walnuts soak up the vinegar, boil a little 
 additional vinegar without spices, and when cold 
 pour it upon them. They must be kept entirely 
 covered with the vinegar. They will be ready 
 for use in three months, but will improve with 
 keeping. If wanted for speedy use, pierce each 
 one throughout both ways with a needle, leave 
 them in the brine fully twelve days, and pour 
 the vinegar upon them boiling hot. Time, 
 about a fortnight to make the pickle. Probable 
 cost, walnuts. Is. 6d. to 2s. per 100. 
 
 WALNUTS, TO PRESERVE. 
 
 Fill an earthen pot with them, and cover them 
 with clay an inch thick. At Christmas-time 
 they will be found as fresh as when first 
 gathered. Another way is to put the walnuts 
 into a common earthenware jar with an earthen- 
 ware lid, and bury the jar in the earth about a 
 foot deep in a place not too wet nor too dry. 
 A third way is as follows. Gather the walnuts 
 on a dry day, and directly they are taken 
 out of the rind, put them into large flower-pots 
 holding two pecks (any pans, however, will do 
 as well), and when nearly full cover the pots 
 two inches thick with sawdust. Place the pots 
 on the floor in a wine-cellar. 
 
 WAkNUT VINEGAR. 
 
 The vinegar which covers pickled walnuts is 
 useful for flavouring the gravy used for hashes 
 of cold meat. It is also excellent when used as 
 a pickle. 
 WASHINGTON CAKE. 
 
 Put three-quarters of a pound of fresh butter 
 into a bowl, and beat it to cream. Add gradually 
 a pound of sugar, four well-beaten eggs, a tea- 
 cupful of milk, half a nutmeg, grated, half a 
 
WAS 
 
 1039 
 
 WAT 
 
 tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, three table- 
 spoonfuls of brandy, and a pound and three- 
 qiiartera of flour; flour a pound of dried cur- 
 rants, and- stir them in also (or they may be 
 omitted). Beat the mixture briskly for a quarter 
 of an hour. Pissolve a tea-Bpoonful of baking- 
 powder in a little hot water, and stir it into the 
 mixture. Line the sides and bottom of the pan 
 with buttered paper, pour in the cake, and bake 
 in a moderate oven. When a skewer which has 
 been thrust into it comes out clear and dry it is 
 done enough. 
 
 WASHINGTON CAKES, BREAKFAST. 
 
 Rub two ounces of butter into a pound and a 
 half of flour; add a pinch of salt, two table- 
 spoonfuls of powdered sugar, three well-beaten 
 eggs, and a pint of milk. Beat the mixture 
 thoroughly. Put it into buttered pans an inch 
 deep, and bake the cakes in a well-heated oven. 
 They will be done in about half an hour. 
 
 WASPS' NEST CAKES. 
 
 Beat up six ounces of fresh butter, one egg, 
 and three yolks. Add two spoonfuls of yeast, 
 three spoonfuls of milk, and half a pound of 
 flour. Make the mixture into a paste, roll it out 
 thin, cut it into strips twelve inches long, and 
 three broad. Strew thickly with currants, 
 chopped almonds, sugar, and cinnam on ; roll the 
 strips up, put them in a buttered tin, and bake 
 slowly. Strew with sugar, and serve. 
 
 WASSAIL BOWL. 
 
 The wassail bowl used in ancient days to be 
 served specially on Christmas Eve. It was 
 brought into the banqueting hall with songs and 
 carols, and crowned with garlands. To make 
 it, grate half a nutmeg, and put it into a sauce- 
 pan with one clove, a quarter of an ounce of 
 grated ginger, half a small blade of mace, an 
 inch of stick cinnamon, and two or three corian- 
 der and cardamom seeds. Pour upon these in- 
 gredients a tea-cupful of cold water, and let 
 them boil. Then add two bottles of white wine, 
 not sweet, and three-quarters of a pound of re- 
 fined sugar. Pour the mixture into a large 
 saucepan, and set it on the fire. Break the 
 yolks of six eggs and the whites of three into 
 the wassail bowl. When the wine is warm, mix 
 a, tea-cupful of it with the eggs in the bowl; 
 when it is a little warmer, add another tea- 
 cupful, and repeat until five tea-cupfuls have 
 been used; Let the remaining wine boil, and 
 pour it upon the eggs, stirring briskly all the 
 time to froth the liquid. Core, but do not pare, 
 six apples; fill the cavity with sugar, roast 
 them, and throw them into the bowl. Serve 
 very hot. Though sherry or Madeira ought 
 properly to be used, good raisin wine will make 
 an excellent wassail, especially if a tumblerful 
 of brandy be added to it. 
 
 WASSAIL BOWL (another way). 
 
 Mix half an ounce of grated ginger, half a 
 grated nutmeg, and a pinch of powdered cin- 
 namon, with half a pound of Demerara sugar. 
 Put it into a saucepan with a pint of ale, and 
 let it boil; then stir in two additional pints of 
 ale, half a bottle of sherry, Madeira, or raisin 
 wine, and a large lump of su^ar which has been 
 rubbed upon a fresh lemon till the yellow part 
 is taken off. Make the wine very hot, but do 
 
 not allow it to boil ; put it into the bowl. Throw 
 into it six apples roasted as in the last recipe, 
 and half a small lemon cut into slices and freed 
 entirely from the white pith, Serve very hot. 
 
 WASSAIL BOWL (another way). 
 
 The following is an old recipe for making tue 
 wassail bowl. Simmer a small quantity of the 
 following spices in a tea-cupful of water, viz., 
 cardamoms, cloves, nutmeg, mace, ginger, cin- 
 namon, and coriander. When done, put the 
 spice to two, four, or six bottles of port, sherry, 
 or Madeira, with a pound and a half of loaf sugar 
 pounded (this quantity is for four bottles), and 
 set all on the fire in a clean, bright saucepan ; 
 ' meanwhile, have the yolks of twelve eggs and 
 the whites of six well whisked up in it. Then, 
 when the spiced and sugared wine is a little 
 warm, take from it at intervals three or four 
 cupfuls and pour them into the bowl ; after 
 which, when it boils, add the whole of the 
 remainder, pouring it in gradually, and stir- 
 ring it briskly all the time so as to froth it. 
 The moment a fine froth is obtained, toss in 
 twelve fine soft roasted apples, and send it up 
 hot. Spices for each bottle of wine : Ten grains 
 of mace, forty-six grains of cloves, thirty-seven 
 grains of cardamoms, twenty-eight grains of cin- 
 namon, twelve grains of nutmeg, forty-eight 
 grains of ginger, and forty-nine grains of corian- 
 der-seeds. 
 
 WASSAIL BOWL (another way). 
 
 Put into a bowl half a pound of castor sugar, 
 pour on it a pint of warm beer, grate a nutmeg 
 and some ginger into it, add four glassfuls of 
 sherry and five additional pints of beer; stir 
 well, and sweeten to taste. Let the preparation 
 stand covered up for two or three hours, then 
 put into it three or four slices of bread cut thin 
 and toasted brown. Sometimes two or three 
 slices of lemon, and a few lumps of loaf sugar 
 which have been rubbed on the peel of a lemon, 
 are introduced. 
 
 WATER BISCUITS. 
 
 Rub an ounce of butter into one pound of 
 best flour. Add a pinch of salt, and stir as 
 much cold water into the mixture as will make 
 a stiff, smooth paste. Roll this out till very 
 thin, cut it into small biscuits, and bake upon 
 buttered tins in a quick oven. 
 
 WATER CAKES. 
 
 Sift three-quarters of a pound of powdered 
 sugar with one pound of fine flour. Add a pinch 
 of salt and a table-spoonful of caraway-seeds. 
 Mix well with the white of an egg beaten up 
 with a little cold water, and roll the paste thin. 
 Stamp it into small rounds with a cutter, prick 
 holes in them with a fork, and bake the cakes 
 upon tins in a good oven. 
 
 WATER, CHERRY. 
 
 Take a dozen Morella cherries, crush the fruit, 
 and break the kernels ; put them intp a large 
 tumbler, and pour over them a wine-glassful 
 of capillaire. Half fill the tumbler with shaved 
 ice, add a wine-glassful of cold water, and 
 serve with sponge biscuits. 
 
 WATER-CRESS. 
 
 This plant possesses valuable medicinal pro- 
 perties of a stimulating nature, and is said to be 
 
WAT 
 
 1040 
 
 WAT 
 
 particularly useful in strengthening the nerves. 
 The expressed juice, which contains the peculiar 
 pungency and taste of the herb, is used in 
 medicine. 
 
 External impurities in water-cress may be 
 removed by washing, but not the impurities 
 which are absorbed within. If the full 
 
 WATEll.CKESS SALAD. 
 
 virtues of this herb are to be experienced, it 
 should be eaten frequently and freely. It is 
 mostly used, with bread and salt, as an accom- 
 paniment to cheese. It is also used to garnish 
 dishes; it is excellent served as a, salad; and 
 it is very good boiled in the same way as 
 spinach. 
 
 Water-cress is good from autumn till early 
 summer, except when cut off by frost. Bronze- 
 leaved specimens are the most highly esteemed. 
 
 WATER-CRESS AND PICKLE SALAD. 
 
 Take some seasoned cress and put it in a 
 border round a dish, regulating the quantity 
 by the number of eaters. Then cut into quar- 
 ters as many hard-boiled eggs as there are 
 guests, and put them in the centre on a bed 
 of any vegetable salad that may be approved — 
 one of potato is often liked. The eggs should 
 stand well above the cress. Then cut up some 
 pickles that will contrast well in colour, or use 
 them whole if small ; lay them outside the 
 border of cress, and serve. If liked, the accom- 
 panying meat can be cut into thin slices and 
 put under the eggs, a few of the nicest pieces 
 being kept to garnish the cress. The dish then, 
 becomes a " salad of cold meat with eggs and 
 pickles." 
 
 WATER-CRESS SALAD. 
 
 Gather the water-cress when young, cleanse 
 it thoroughly in salt and water, and serve as 
 fresh as possible. Place it in a bowl, either 
 alone or mixed with other salad plants, and toss 
 it lightly in a simple salad sauce. When served 
 at breakfast, water-cress is best sent to table as 
 it is, fresh and crisp. 
 
 WATER-CRESS, STEWED. 
 
 Lay the cress in strong salt and water; pick 
 and wash it well ; and stew it in water for 
 about ten minutes. Drain and chop it, then 
 return it to the stewpan with a bit of butter, 
 some pepper and salt. Stew till tender. Just 
 
 before serving put in a little vinegar, and 
 serve with fried sippets. This is excellent with 
 boiled chicken. 
 
 WATER-CRESS, WHOLESOMENESS OF. 
 
 Water-cress acts as a gentle stimulant and 
 diuretic ; for these purposes the expressed juice, 
 which contains the peculiar taste and pungency 
 of the herb, may be taken in doses of an ounce 
 or two, and continued for a considerable time. 
 It should be at the same time eaten at break- 
 fast, also at dinner, and for supper, to ex- 
 perience benefit from the virtues of this herb. 
 Haller says, " We have seen patients in deep 
 declines cured by almost entirely living on this 
 plant." 
 
 WATER GRUEL. 
 
 Ascertain whether it is desired that the gruel 
 should be thick or thin. If it is preferred thick, 
 mix two table-spoonfuls of oatmeal smoothly 
 with a little cold water; if it is preferred thin, 
 one table-spoonful of oatmeal will be sufficient. 
 Boil a pint of water in a saucepan, stir it 
 gradually into the oatmeal in the basin, return 
 the mixture to the saucepan, and boil it till 
 smooth. Stir it well to keep it from burning, 
 skim it, strain through a sieve, sweeten, season, 
 or flavour it, and it will be ready for use. The 
 gruel may be used after it has boiled five 
 minutes. It will be better if boiled a quarter 
 of an hour. Gruel may be sweetened and fla- 
 voured with nutmeg, ginger, or gratcLl lemon, 
 ale, wine, or spirit; or it may be seasoned with 
 salt and pepper, and flavoured with spices, 
 herbs, mushroom-powder, celery-seed, shallots, 
 or onions. When sweetened with treacle, and 
 taken just before getting into bed, it is one of 
 the best suppers that can be partaken of by 
 anyone who is suffering- from a cold in the 
 head or on the chest. It is most usually served 
 with a small piece of butter dissolved in it, and 
 either sweetened with sugar or seasoned with 
 salt. 
 
 WATER ICES. 
 
 Water ices are made of the juices of ripe 
 fruits mixed with syrup and frozen ; and it 
 must be remembered that if the juices are 
 sweetened excessively they will not freeze. It 
 is, therefore, necessary to test them with an 
 instrument called a saccharometer. To do this,- 
 put the mixture prepared for freezing into a 
 tumbler, place the saccharometer gently in it : 
 if it is mixed correctly for freezing with powder 
 it will stick to the highest red mark; for freez- 
 ing with ice and salt to the lowest red mark. 
 To make it sink, add water to the mixture; 
 to make it rise, add syrup. These remarks 
 apply also to ice creams, ice puddings, and all 
 drinks which are to be frozen. For water ices 
 clarified sugar should be used; and this may 
 be made by boiling for ten minutes, and skim- 
 ming thoroughly, a quart of water with three 
 pounds of sugar and half the white of an egg 
 well whisked. Having prepared the mixture 
 and also ascertained its strength, put it into an 
 ice-pot. Place it in the ice-pail, and surround 
 it with ice which has been broken almost to 
 powder and mixed with salt and a little salt- 
 petre. Work the freezer rapidly for ten 
 minutes ; then remove the ice from the sides 
 pf the freezer with the ice-spattle. and work 
 
WAT 
 
 1011 
 
 WEB 
 
 it again till it is stiff and smooth. Put it into 
 the mould, and leave it in ice mixed with salt 
 and saltpetre till it is to be served. To turn it 
 out, wipe it with a cloth, dip it in cold water for 
 a minute, and wipe it dry; lift ofE the lids of 
 the mould, and with the fingers push the ice 
 Tipon its dish. 
 
 WATER, ORANGE (for flavouring). 
 
 Take the thin rind of oranges, without any of 
 the white part ; bruise it in a mortar, and pour 
 as much boiling water upon it as will barely 
 cover it. Cover closely. When cold, straiij the 
 liquor, and bottle for use. 
 
 WATER, PURIFICATION OF. 
 
 Pure water is incapable of putrefaction, but 
 ordinarily water contains a small quantity of 
 organic matter in solution which quickly un- 
 . dergoes decomposition even in closed vessels. 
 This is particularly the case when the water is 
 kept in wooden casks, or in open cisterns, into 
 which leaves and insects are driven by the wind. 
 As a beverage, putrescent water is highly un- 
 wholesome. Among the various methods that 
 are adopted for purifying foul water, are the 
 following. 1. Filtration through or agitation 
 with powdered freshly-burnt charcoal, either 
 animal or vegetable, but preferably the latter. 
 This removes both mechanically - suspended 
 matter, and part of the calcareous and gaseous 
 impurities held in solution. 2. Free exposure 
 to the action of the air, by which the organic 
 matters become oxidised and insoluble, and 
 speedily subside. This may be effected easily 
 by agitating the water in contact with fresh 
 air, or by forcing air through it by ine'ans of 
 bellows. 3. Add a little sulphuric acid; fifteen 
 to twenty drops are usually sufficient for "a gal- 
 lon. This addition may be advantageously 
 made to water intended for filtration through 
 charcoal, by which plan at least two-thirds of 
 the latter may be saved (Lowitz). 4. An ounce 
 of powdered alum (dissolved) well agitated with 
 a hogshead or more of foul water, will purify 
 it in the course of a few hours, when the clear 
 portion can be decanted. When the water is 
 very putrid, about half a drachm (or even one 
 drachm) per gallon may be employed. 5. A 
 solution of ferric sulphate acts in the same way 
 as alum; a few drops are enough for a gallon. 
 6. Sea-water may be rendered fit for use as a 
 beverage by distillation. The waste heat ' of 
 the cook's galley is amply sufficient for this 
 purpose. There are several patent contrivances 
 for the distillation of water on ship-board. 
 
 WATERS, ICED FRUIT. 
 
 These are very agreeable beverages, in their 
 season, for evening parties. Currants, cherries, 
 strawberries, raspberries, or apples may be used 
 for making them. To make strawberry water, 
 take a pottle of strawberries — let them be scar- 
 let strawberries, if possible, on account of the 
 beautiful colour they impart to the syrup 
 — pick them carefully, and put them into three 
 pints of very weak syrup ; bruise the straw- 
 berries in it, and boil them up ; strain the water 
 through a jelly-bag without any pressure, which 
 would make the water thick. Ice the water, 
 and keep it in a cool place till wanted. To 
 make currant and cherry waters, a stronger 
 syrup must be used than for strawberries, but 
 
 3o 
 
 the exact strength of the syrup must be deter- 
 mined by taste. 
 
 WATER SOUCHET. 
 
 Take some very small flounders or dabs ; clean 
 them thoroughly, and boil them in water with 
 a little salt till tender. Take them up carefully 
 with a slicer, one by one, keeping the white side 
 uppermost. Put them into a vegetable-dish 
 nearly full of boiling water, and throw into this 
 two or three sprigs of clean double parsley. 
 Serve very quickly. Hand round with the fish 
 thin slices of brown bread and butter. Water 
 souchet is made also of eels, soles, and plaice. 
 The fish ought to be very small ; but if these 
 cannot be procured, and larger ones have to be 
 used, they should be cut into moderate-sized 
 pieces, the heads and tails being rejected. Time, 
 a few minutes to boil the fish. Probable cost, 
 6d. for a moderate-sized dish. Sufficient for 
 three or four persons. 
 
 WATER SOUCHET (another way). 
 
 Take a quart of water, a few perch or 
 flounders, some parsley and parsley-roots. 
 Stew these in a suitable pan, and when soft pulp 
 them through a sieve. Into the liquor put some 
 more fish with more parsley and parsley-roots 
 and some salt. Boil till the fish is done enough, 
 and then send it to table in the surrounding 
 water, together with the roots. The trim- 
 mings of the fish stewed down strengthens the 
 water in which the fish is afterwards served. 
 WATER, TOAST AND. 
 
 By impregnating water with the soluble parts 
 of toasted bread, it will frequently agree with 
 those stomachs which rebel against the use of 
 the pure fluid. It is thus rendered slightly nu- 
 tritive, holdiug a certain portion of gum and 
 starch in solution. Much depends upon the 
 water being at the boiling temperature when 
 put to the toast, and it ought to be drunk as 
 soon as it has cooled sufficiently, for by keeping 
 it acquires an unpleasant flavour. Infusions of 
 other kinds of bread, in particular of toasted 
 oat-cakes, also dried or toasted oatmeal; have 
 been recommended ; but the taste of such in- 
 fusions would not be palatable to anyone who 
 has not been accustomed to eat oat-bread. 
 WEAVER FISH. 
 
 The great weaver, or the sea-cat, of Sussex, 
 generally measures about twelve inches in 
 length, swims near the bottom, and is remark- 
 able for living a long time after it is taken out 
 of the water. It is also armed with veryshalrp 
 spines, which inflict wounds difficult to heal, 
 unless one uses friction with oil. The fishermen 
 consequently cut off these spines previous to 
 bringing the fish to market. They are a sort 
 of marine perch, and are excellent. The lesser 
 weaver is more common on our coasts than the 
 great weaver, and, having the faculty of strik- 
 ing with its sharp spines, is often called the 
 sting-fish. 
 
 WEBSTER CAKES. 
 
 Beat half a pound of fresh butter to cream. 
 Add half a pound of powdered white sugar, 
 three-quarters of a pound of sifted flour, a 
 table-spoonful of orange-flower water, a table- 
 . spoonful of brandy, four ounces of picked and 
 dried currants, and five well-beaten eggs. Beat 
 
WED 
 
 1042 
 
 WEI 
 
 the mixture till it is very light. Line some 
 shallow tins with buttered paper, pour in the 
 mixture to the depth of half an inch, and bake 
 in a brisk oven. Time, fifteen minutes. 
 
 WEDDING CAKE, EXCELLENT. 
 
 A wedding cake is an expensive article to 
 purchase, and may be made at home without 
 much difficulty, and with a great saving of ex- 
 pense. To make a wedding cake, first procure 
 the following ingredients. One pound and a 
 half of flour, one pound and a half of butter, 
 half a pound of candied lemon, half a pound 
 of candied orange, half a pound of candied 
 citron, one pound of dried cherries, one pound 
 and a half of dried currants (if the cherries 
 cdnnot easily be procured, they may be omit- 
 ted, and two pounds and a half of currants used 
 instead), eight ounces of almonds, eight eggs, 
 the rind of four oranges or of two lemons 
 
 WBDDIXG CAKE. 
 
 rubbed upon sugar, half an ounce of spices, 
 consisting of powdered cinnamon, grated nut- 
 meg, and powdered cloves in equal proportions, 
 a tea-spoonful of salt, and a small tumblerful of 
 brandy. If objected to, the brandy may be 
 omitted, and another egg may be added. Wash, 
 pick, and dry the currants, cut the cherries into 
 moderate-sized pieces, slice the candied peel into 
 thin shreds, blanch and pound the almonds, or 
 cut them into very small pieces, and crush the 
 flavoured sugar to powder. Put the butter into 
 a large bowl, and beat it to cream, either with 
 a wooden spoon or with the hand. Add very 
 gradually the sugar, flour, and eggs, and when 
 they are thoroughly mixed work in the rest of 
 the ingredients. Put them in a little at a time, 
 and beat the cake between every addition. It 
 should be beaten fully three-quarters of an hour. 
 Line a tin hoop with double folds of buttered 
 paper, pour in the mixture, and place it on a 
 metal baking-sheet with twelve folds of paper 
 
 under it, and four or five on the top, to keep 
 it from burning. Put it in a moderately- 
 heated oven, and keep the oven at an even 
 temperature until it is done enough. If the 
 cake is to be iced, first prepare the almond part : 
 Take half a pound of almonds, throw them 
 into boiling water, and skin them. Pound them 
 in a mortar with a few drops of orange-flower 
 water, one pound of fine white sugar, and as 
 much white of egg as will make a soft, stiff 
 paste. Spread this over the top of the cake, 
 and keep it from the edge as much as possible. 
 Put it in a cool oven, or in a warm place, till it 
 is dry and hard. To make the sugar icing, put 
 two pounds of icing sugar into a, bowl and work 
 into it the whites of two eggs, or, if necessary, 
 three, or even four. TTie whites must not be 
 whisked, but thrown in as they are. Work the 
 mixture to a stiff shiny paste, and whilst work- 
 ing it add occasionally a drop of lemon-juice. 
 Be careful to obtain icing sugar. If a drop of 
 liquid blue is added it will make it look whiter. 
 The icing will need to be worked vigorously 
 to make a paste which will not run, and the 
 fewer eggs taken the better. The cake ought 
 not to be iced until a short time before it is 
 wanted, as it may get dirty. The icing should 
 be spread evenly over with hands wetted with 
 cold water, then smoothed with an ivory knife, 
 and it should be put in a gentle oven to harden. 
 It may be ornafiiented with little knobs of icing 
 placed round the edge; and on the day of the 
 wedding a wreath of white flowers and green 
 leaves may be placed round it by way of orna- 
 ment. If anything more elaborate is required, 
 a pretty centre ornament may be made with 
 glazed white cardboard, silver paper, and orange- 
 blossom ; or a stand and a drum, with artificial 
 flowers, may be hired of the confectioner. Time 
 to bake the cake, about six hours. Probable 
 cost, 10s., or thereabouts. A cake of the same 
 size, if bought at the confectioner's, would cost 
 at least SOs. Sufficient for a cake the size of a 
 large dinner- plate. This, when placed on a 
 stand and ornamented, will have a very good 
 appearance. 
 
 WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 
 
 Every kitchen should have scales, with 
 weights from a quarter of an ounce to ten 
 pounds placed on the dresser, and the weights 
 should be kept carefully in order. A set of tin 
 measures with small spouts or lips, with their 
 capacities distinctly marked upon them, from 
 a gallon down to half a gill, will also be found 
 very convenient. It is likewise well to have a 
 set of wooden measures, from a bushel down to 
 a quarter of a peck. Let it be remembered that 
 of liquid measure — 
 
 Two gills are half a pint. 
 
 Two pints are one quart. 
 
 Four quarts are one gallon. 
 
 Of dry measure — 
 
 Half a gallon is a quarter of a peck. 
 One gallon is half a peck. 
 Two gallons are one peck. 
 Four gallons are half £t bushel. 
 Eight gallons are one bushel. 
 About twenty-five drops of any thin liquid 
 will fill a common-sized tea-spoon. 
 A common tumbler holds half a pint. 
 
WEI. 
 
 1043 
 
 WEt 
 
 Four table-apoonfnls, or half a gill, will fill a 
 common wine-glaes. 
 
 Four wine-glasses will fill a half-pint or com- 
 mon tumbler, or a large coffee-cup. 
 
 A quart black bottle holds in reality about 
 a pint and a third. 
 
 Ten eggs generally weigh one pound before 
 they are broken. 
 
 A tea-spoonful of salt or brown sugar is gener- 
 ally about one ounce. 
 
 Dry ingredients such as flour, sugar, spices, 
 and soda should be sifted before measuring, 
 unless the recipe states to the contrary. Many 
 carefully-written and many-times-tried recipes 
 fail from the lack of this little precaution, for 
 a table-spoonful of unsifted flour will measure 
 over twice as much after that process. The 
 table, dessert, and tea spoons used for mea- 
 suring should be of the regulation sizes made 
 in silver; the cup, the regulation kitchen cup, 
 holding two gills or one-half of a pint. In 
 measuring dry materials, a spoonful means that 
 whatever is measured should round as much 
 above the spoon as the spoon rounds under- 
 neath. When a level or a heaping spoonful is 
 desired, it is so stated in the recipe. A spoon- 
 ful of liquid is the spoon full to the brim; one- 
 half of a spoonful should be measured length- 
 wise of the spoon, not across. 
 
 A cupful is an even cup, levelled off — not 
 shaken down — and accurate portions of the 
 cupful may be found by using the measuring- 
 cups divided into thirds and fourths. These 
 are of glass, which makes accuracy easy. 
 
 equal 1 tea-spoonful. 
 1 table-epoonful 
 1 dessert-spoonful 
 1 table-spoonful 
 
 1 gill 
 
 4 ealt-epoonfule 
 
 4 tea-spoonfuls 
 2 t«a-epoonfuls 
 2 dessert-spoonfuls 
 
 5 table-spoonfuls of 
 
 liquid 
 
 6 table-spoonfuls of dry 
 
 material 1 gill 
 
 2 gills . . . . ,,1 cupful 
 2 oupfuls or 4 gills . . „ 1 pint 
 4 oupfuls of liquid . . „ 1 quart 
 4 oupfuls of flour . . „ 1 quart 
 2 cupfuls of solid butter ,, 1 pound 
 2 cupfuls of granulated 
 
 sugar . . . . „ 1 pound 
 2i cupfuls of powdered 
 
 sugar . . ' . . ,,1 pound 
 2 cupfuls of milk or 
 
 water ... ,,1 pound 
 
 1 table-spoonful of butter ,, 1 ounce 
 
 2 table-spoonfuls of flour „ 1 ounce 
 2 table-spoonfuls of cof- 
 fee .... ,,1 ounce 
 
 Butter the size of an egg means two table- 
 spoonfuls or two ounces. 
 
 A table-spoonful of melted butter is measured 
 after melting. 
 
 A table-spoonful of butter, melted, is measured 
 before melting. 
 
 WELSH BEEF. 
 
 A round of beef prepared in this way will 
 keep for two months in cold weather, and con- 
 stitute a good standing dish. If the quantity 
 for which the recipe is written is too large, a 
 small round weighing eighteen or twenty 
 pounds may be taken, or a part of a round of 
 the weight that is required, and cooked in the 
 game way. Half a round might lie in the salt 
 
 ten days or a fortnight, instead of three 
 weeks. Take a round of beef weighing from 
 twenty-flve to thirty pounds, rub two ounces of 
 saltpetre into it, and let it lie for an hour. 
 Rub it well with a powder made of one pound 
 of common salt, one ounce of white pepper, one 
 ounce of moist sugar, one nutmeg, grated, a 
 quarter of an ounce of pounded mace, and a 
 cfuarter of an ounce of pounded cloves. Lay 
 the meat in a pickling-pan, rub the ingredients 
 into it, and turn and rub them every day for 
 three weeks. Wash the meat in cold water, % 
 and let it dry. Skewer it into a round form, 
 and bind with tape. Put it into an earthen 
 pan with plenty of chopped suet under and over 
 it, pour a cupful of water or stock round it, 
 cover the vessel with a coarse paste of flour and 
 water, and bake the beef in a moderate oven 
 till tender. Pour off the gravy, and let the 
 beef stand till cold. This gravy will, when 
 strained, form an excellent foundation for soup. 
 The beef will have a much better appearance 
 if it is pressed under a heavy weight for some 
 hours after being taken from the oven, and 
 brushed over twice with liquid glaze. The 
 glaze may be made of any strong, clear gravy 
 boiled quickly until it thickens when dropped 
 from the spoon; or a small quantity- may bo 
 bought of the grocer, dissolved in the' usual 
 way, and used. Time to bake the beef, six to 
 eight hours, or a quarter of an hour to the 
 pound. Probable cost, beef, lOd. or lid. per 
 pound. 
 WELSH LEEK PORRIDGE. 
 
 This is made just like cock-a-leekie soup, and 
 thickened with toasted bread. It used to b« 
 the custom to stew French plums with the por- 
 ridge, but this now is scarcely ever done. 
 
 WELSH NECTAR (a pleasant summer beverage). 
 
 Cut the peel of three lemons very thin, and 
 put the rind into a jar with the strained juice, 
 two pounds of loaf sugar, and a pound of raisins 
 stoned and chopped small. Pour upon these 
 ingredients two gallons of water which has been 
 boiled and allowed to cool. Stir the liquor 
 daily for five days, strain it through a jelly-bag, 
 bottle it, and tie do.wn the cork. It will be fit 
 for use in ten days or a fortnight. Time, five 
 days to make the nectar. Probable cost. Is. per 
 gallon. Sufficient to make two gallons. 
 WELSH PUDDING, MODERN (sometimes called 
 Quaker's Pudding). 
 
 Take half a pound of fresh beef suet free from 
 skin and fibre. Chop it small, and mix with 
 it half a p6u|id of finely-grated bread-crumbs, 
 half a pound, of sugar, the grated rind of a 
 large fresh lemon, and the juice of two. Mix 
 these ingredients thoroughly, and bind the mix- 
 ture together with two eggs well beaten. Put 
 it into a buttered mould, place it in boiling 
 water, and keep it boiling quickly until done 
 enough. Turn it out carefully, and serve. Time 
 to boil the pudding, four hours. Probable cost 
 of pudding. Is. or Is. 2d. Sufficient for six 
 persons. 
 WELSH PUDDING, VERY RICH. 
 
 Hub a large lump of sugar upon the rind of 
 a fresh lemon till all the yellow part is taken 
 off. Crush it to powder, and add additional 
 
WEL 
 
 1014 
 
 WES 
 
 sugar to make up the quantity to thiee ounces. 
 Melt four ounces of fresh butter very gently. 
 Mix with it the yolks of four eggs and the whites 
 of two, and add the sugar. Line a shallow 
 dish with good pastry, put in the mixture, and 
 bake till done enough. Time to bake the pud- 
 ding, half to three-quarters of an hour. Prob- 
 able cost. Is. 2d. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 WELSH RAREBIT. 
 
 1 4, Cut half a pound of mellow Gloucester cheese 
 into thin slices. Put an ounce and a half of 
 butter upon a plate, and knead it before the 
 fire with a tea-spoonful of unmixed mustard and 
 a pinch of cayenne till it looks like thick cream. 
 Cut from a large loaf a round of bread half an 
 inch thick. Trim away the crust, toast the 
 bread, and butter thickly. Lay half the cheese 
 upon it, pour half the seasoned butter 
 upon that, and add, first the remainder of the 
 cheese, then the rest of the butter. Put the 
 bread in a Dutch oven before a clear fire, and 
 let it remain until the cheese is melted. Serve 
 very hot. Time to toast the cheese, twenty 
 minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for two 
 or three persons. 
 
 WELSH RAREBIT (another way). 
 
 Put four ounces of Cheddar cheese into a 
 small stewpan with a tea-spodnful of mustard, 
 two table-spoonfuls of ale, and half a tea-spoon- 
 ful of pepper. Stir till the mixture is dissolved, 
 place on hot buttered toast, and serve very hot. 
 Probable cost, 6d. 
 
 WEST COUNTRY PUDDING. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of good baking 
 apples, weighed after they are pared and cored. 
 Mince them finely, and mix with them a quarter 
 of a pound of currants picked and dried, a 
 quarter of a pound of finely-grated bread- 
 crumbs, three table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, 
 and two well-beaten eggs. Press the mixture 
 into a buttered mould which it will quite fill, 
 plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling 
 quickly till done enough. Send sweet sauce to 
 table with it. If liked, cold boiled rice which 
 has been drained from the milk in which it was 
 cooked may be used instead of bread-crumbs. 
 Time to boil the pudding, one hour and a half. 
 Probable cost, 5d. Sufficient for four or five 
 persons. 
 
 WEST INDIAN PUDDING. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of stale sponge bis- 
 cuits, crumble them into a bowl, and pour upon 
 them half a pint of boiling cream nicely 
 sweetened. Let them soak for an .hour. Beat 
 the mixture with a fork, and add three well- 
 beaten eggs. Butter a small pudding-mould. 
 Line it with preserved ginger cut into thin slices, 
 and fill it with the pudding, placed gently into 
 it by spoonfuls so as not to disturb the ginger. 
 CoveV it, and tie securely in a cloth.' Put it in 
 a saucepan upon a plate turned upside down, 
 surround it with about three inches of boiling 
 water, and keep the water boiling. When done 
 enough, turn it out, and serve with the syrup 
 from the ginger made hot, and poured over it. 
 Probable cost. Is. 8d. Sufficient for three or 
 four persons. Time, three-quarters of an hour 
 to one hour to steam the pudding. 
 
 WEST RIDING PUDDING. 
 
 Beat two ounces of butter to a cream, add 
 two eggs, and two ounces of sugar, a little at a 
 time, and beat for a few minutes. Stir four 
 ounces of flour in with half a tea-spoonful of 
 baking-powder, and a few drops of essence of 
 lemon. Put some red currant or raspberry jam 
 at the bottom of a shallow pie-dish, then 
 decorate the edge with leaves of pastry. 
 Nearly fill with the mixture, and bake at a 
 moderate heat. Serve either hot or cold. The 
 dish may be lined with pastry, if preferred. 
 
 WESTPHALIAN HAM. 
 
 Westphalia is celebrated for the delicacy and 
 flavour of its hams. A Westphaliau ham needs 
 to be soaked longer than one cured at home. 
 It should be laid in cold water for twenty-four 
 hours, drained, covered with fresh water, and 
 left for another twenty-four hours. When suf- 
 ficiently soaked, cleanse and trim it, put it 
 into a saucepan, cover with cold water, and let 
 it simmer gently for an hour. Take it up, put 
 it in a stewpan upon a bed of sliced carrots, 
 onions, and celery, and add a bunch of mar- 
 joram, a sprig of thyme, a clove of garlic, three 
 bay-leaves, a dozen peppercorns, half a dozen 
 cloves, and a blade of mace. Pour over the 
 ingredients as much stock as will barely cover 
 them, and let the ham simmer gently until done 
 enough. Take the stewpan from the fire, and 
 leave the ham in the liquor till cold. Take it 
 up, draw off the rind, trim the fat evenly, put 
 the joint in the oven for a few minutes, then 
 press it with a dry cloth to free it from grease, 
 and either glaze it or shake bread-raspings all- 
 over it. Time to simmer, about five hours. 
 
 WESTPHALIAN HAM, MOCK. 
 
 Hams ma^ be cured at home in such a way 
 that they will acquire something of the flavour 
 which belongs to Westphalian hams. To do this, 
 rub each ham with one ounce and a half of 
 pounded saltpetre and one ounce and a half of 
 moist sugar. Let the meat lie for twenty-four 
 hours. Put a pound of strong, stale beer into a 
 stewpan with a pound of common salt, a pound 
 of bay salt, half a pound of brown sugar, one 
 ounce of black pepper, and one ounce of pounded 
 cloves. Let the liquor boil, skim it, and pour 
 it boiling hot upon the ham, which should be 
 turned and rubbed in it twice a day for a 
 fortnight. Or make the pickle by boiling two 
 gallons of soft water with two pounds of com- 
 mon salt, two ounces of bay salt, two ounces 
 of saltpetre, and a handful of bay-leaves finely 
 shredded. Pour the boiling liquor upon the 
 ham, and turn and rub it every day as before. 
 Burn juniper wood under the hams when smok- 
 ing them. The Westphalian hams derive their 
 peculiar flavour not from the way in which they 
 are cured and smoked alone : the peculiar nature 
 of the food of the WesphaUan pigs has a great 
 deal to do with it. 
 
 WESTPHALIAN HAM, BOILED DELICATELY. 
 
 After the ham has soaked all night in luke- 
 warm water, it is laid in the kettle with water 
 to the depth of about nine inches, a quart 
 of wine, a little rosemary, a handful of sage, 
 thyme, basil, marjoram, whole pepper, juniper- 
 berries, and some whole onions. With these 
 ingredients it must boil for four hours only. 
 
WES 
 
 1045 
 
 WHE 
 
 that is to say, to draw it. We may prevent its 
 falling asunder by binding it in a clean old 
 cloth. When completely tender, we take it out 
 in the cloth, lay it on a dish, draw off the rind 
 after removing the cloth, and ornament it with 
 the rind. The more it is garnished the better 
 it is. When cold, transfer the ham to a clean 
 dish, and tastefully arrange parsley about it. 
 
 WESTPHALIAN SAUSAGES. 
 
 Take six pounds of lean beef and two pounds 
 of cow's udder fat; boil the meat, but let the 
 fat parboil only; then mince them up as fine 
 as possible; take about a third of the quantity 
 in bread-crumbs, which have been soaked in the 
 soup, the liquor being well pressed from them ; 
 add salt, pounded pepper, cloves, and suitable 
 herbs; mix the whole well together, and fill 
 fat ox-entrails which have been thoroughly 
 cleaned. Parboil them ; then smoke them of a 
 yellowish colour. They may be eaten with other 
 things, or warmed with cabbage, or fried in 
 butter. These sausages will not keep very 
 long. 
 
 WESTPHALIAN SAUSAGES (a German recipe). 
 
 Take twelve pounds of any parts of pork, 
 fat and lean together, and cut it up. It should 
 not be minced so fine as for other sausages, 
 in fact, the pieces should not be smaller than 
 peas. Season with half an ounce of black 
 pepper freshly ground, and a quarter of a 
 pound of salt, sprinkling the seasoning among 
 the meat before mincing. After filling in the 
 pig-skins, hang the sausages to smoke fbr a 
 week. If to be eaten fresh, the sausages will 
 be improved by hanging for a few days in a cool 
 dry place. 
 
 WHEAT. 
 
 The cereal used in the largest quantity is 
 wheat. With regard to its composition, there 
 would appear to be quite as much if not more 
 nutritive matter in oats — a larger quantity of 
 saline matter, and, in fact, of all those consti- 
 tuents of food which are necessary to the pro- 
 duction of tissues, the maintenance of the 
 animal heat, and the supply of mineral 
 material to the body. With regard, also, to 
 barley, we find that barley has the same capa- 
 bilities as oats — ^it contains all the constituents 
 of wheat and of oats. We may also say in 
 regard to maize, that it contains the same con- 
 stituents — starch, nutritive matter, and saline 
 matter — even in larger quantities than oats and 
 wheat; and, in addition to these, it contains 
 a very large quantity of fatty matter and of 
 oily matter, which is not found in wheat, in 
 barley, or in oats. But wheaten flour alone of 
 all these farinaceous foods will make fermented 
 bread. Its product is more abundant in dis- 
 tricts of a higher temperature than our own, 
 and it is always cultivated in this country with 
 some amount of uncertainty. Our really 
 natural grains are barley and oats. Barley 
 is cultivated up to 70° latitude, and also in 
 the tropical parts of the Western world; so 
 • that barley has a greater range than oats or 
 wheat. The oat has a much more Northern 
 range than wheat, and of the three, the wheat 
 is cultivated in our Northern climate at the 
 greatest uncertainty and expense; but still we 
 
 cultivate it. Wheat does not appear to have a 
 large quantity of nutritive matter : it contains 
 lerss protein than oats, and very little more 
 than Indian meal; a considerable quantity, 
 however, more than rice, but not a much larger 
 quantity than barley-meal. It seemSj then, not 
 so much its composition, as the power it 
 possesses of making a light loaf by fermenta- 
 tion, which causes it to be the favourite form 
 of food. 
 
 WHEAT AND MAIZE BREAD. 
 
 Mix seven pounds of Indian meal with double 
 its weight in wheaten flour; and add four ounces 
 of salt. Mix a pint and, a half of fresh yeast' 
 with two quarts of boiling water.' Make a 
 hollow in the flour without touching the bottom 
 of the bowl, pour in the yeast, and stir into it 
 as much flour as will make a thin batter. 
 Sprinkle flour lightly on the surface of the 
 batter, cover the bowl, and leave it on the 
 hearth for an hour. Stir into it two additional 
 quarts of boiling water, cover it again, and let 
 it stand in a warm place for ten hours. Knead 
 thoroughly, gash the surface with a knife, and 
 let the dough rise for a couple of hours longer 
 till it is very light. Form into loaves, put these 
 into tins, let them rise for half an hour longer, 
 and bake in a good oven. If the crust is hard, 
 wrap the loaves in a towel as soon as they are 
 taken from the oven. Bread made in this way 
 is inexpensive and wholesome. It has a peculiar 
 flavour, which improves with acquaintance. 
 
 WHEATEN PORRIDGE. 
 
 This is exceedingly nutritious. To every 
 six ounces of wheat allow one quart of water 
 or milk, and add a good pinch of salt. It 
 should be allowed to soak in a double pan for 
 half an hour. Boiiling for an hour longer will 
 improve it. Stir occasionally. 
 WHEATEN SCONES. 
 
 Take half a pound of wholemeal and mix 
 with it a tea-spoonful of baking powder and 
 half a tea-spoonful of salt. Now rub in two 
 ounces of butter, using only the tips of the 
 fingers. Mix to a stiff dough with a gill of 
 buttermilk, and roll out as quickly and as 
 lightly as possible to about an inch in thick- 
 ness. Cut into triangles or oblong shapes (or 
 any pretty shape deswed), then place them on 
 a baking tin dusted over with flour. Put into 
 a quick oven and bake for fifteen minutes. 
 If made into one cake the whole may be baked 
 on a girdle instead of in the oven if liked. 
 Cost, about 6d. 
 
 WHEATEARS. 
 
 These birds are in season from July to ' 
 October. They should be cooked the day on 
 which they are killed. Carefully pick and draw 
 the birds, truss them like larks, put them on a 
 bird-spit, or pass a long skewer from one bird 
 to the other, and put the roasting-hook be- 
 tween them that they may hang side by side. 
 Flour them, put them down to a clear fire, and 
 baste plentifully with butter. When done, dish 
 them upon fri&d bread, and garnish the dish 
 with sliced lemon. Send bread sauce to table 
 with them. Many cooks brush them over with 
 yolk of egg and sprinkle bread-crumbs upon 
 them before putting them down to the fire. 
 
WHE 
 
 1046 
 
 WHE 
 
 Time to roast the wheatears, about ten to 
 fifteen minutes. Probable cost, uncertain, 
 wheatears being seldom offered for sale. 
 
 WHEATEN BREAD, WHOLESOMENESS OF. " 
 
 Tie chemical changes which flour undergoes 
 during the process of making bread are not 
 easily understood ; for when the panary-fermen- 
 tation is completed, its properties are so altered 
 that we cannot obtain from it either fecula or 
 gluten. Bread, therefore, differs widely from 
 the flour of which it is composed, and, in fact, 
 may be considered as a new substance. It is 
 easier of digestion than any other preparation 
 of flour, and mixes more readily with water, 
 but is considerably less nutritive. Newly- 
 baked bread swells in the stomach, and is 
 far from being easily digested. Indeed, the 
 process of fermentation does not appear to be 
 completed till the bread is cold; for new bread 
 differs from old, not only in its effects, but in 
 its smell and taste. The best bread, says Dr. 
 Coghan, is made of pure flour of good wheat, 
 sufficiently leavened, somewhat salted, well 
 moulded, well baked, neither too new nor 
 too old; that is to say, that it be at 
 least a day and a night old, and not 
 past four or five days old, except the 
 loaves be very great. Besides the nutritive 
 qualities of bread, it prevents the bad effects 
 whitih would result from the use of too much 
 anidial food, rich soup, and other concentrated 
 food^Aand also serves to divide and give our 
 aliirfent a proper bulk and consistency. It may 
 be allowed to the stomach of the weakest 
 patient, neither stimulates nor relaxes th« 
 system, and is justly called the staff of life. 
 
 WHEATMEAL SCONES. 
 
 Sift together one tea-spoonful of soda and 
 one and a half of cream of tartar with three 
 breakfast-cupfuls of wheatmeal, work in a 
 table-spoonful and a half of butter, then mix 
 in a beaten egg and a breakfast-cupful of milk. 
 Mix all thoroughly together, and bake in small 
 greased patty-tins. Probable cost, 6d. Suf- 
 ficient for six persons. 
 
 WHEAT, WITH FRUIT, OR DURHAM PUDDING. 
 
 Take as much wheat as may be required, wash 
 it well, then put it into a jar, and cover with 
 cold water; leave it to soak for twelve hours, 
 add a little salt, then bake it in a very slow 
 oven until, perfectly tender and of the consis- 
 tency of ordinary porridge. This may take 
 from four to six ioiirs. Then put it into 
 saucers, hollow it in the middle, and fill it 
 with any fruit that may be in season. The fruit 
 should be stewed and well sweetened, as no 
 sugar is put in the wheat. Put a spoonful of 
 cream on top and serve. 
 
 ,} WHEETHAM SANDWICH. 
 
 Take six ounces of castor sugar, two ounces 
 of butter, two teacupfuls of flour, three eggs, 
 one and a half tea-spoonfuls of baking powder, 
 quarter pound desiccated cqcoanut, and one 
 cupful milk. Separate the yolks and the whites 
 of the eggs, putting the latter on a plate, the 
 yolks in a basin with the sugar. Beat these 
 till creamy. In another basin rub the butter 
 into the flour till fine. Next add to yolks and 
 sugar half a cupful of p-^oet milk and the 
 
 white previously whipped to a stiff froth. Mix 
 flour with this. Have two tins ready, lined 
 with greased paper, put half the mixture into 
 each, and bake to a nice brown colour. Turn 
 out and take off the paper. Mix quarter pound 
 desiccated cocoanut and the whites of two eggs 
 whipped to a stiff froth. Spread over the bot- 
 tom side of one cake. Put on top of other 
 cake and return to oven to dry. Ice, if liked, 
 with water icing. Cost, about Is. 3d. 
 
 WHELKS. 
 
 Procure the whelks alive if possible. To 
 cleanse them, put them into fresh water for 
 several hours. Boil them in salt and water. 
 They are hard and leathery in substance, and 
 will need to boil a long time. The small ones, 
 which may be eaten as periwinkles, will require 
 three-quarters of an hour; the large ones with 
 shells as large as hens' eggs, one hour and a 
 quarter. 
 
 Large whelks, even after being thus boiled, 
 are scarcely eatable; therefore take them 
 out of their shells, flour them or dip them in 
 bread-crumbs and fry in hot fat. 
 
 Before serving, sprinkle pepper and vinegar 
 upon them. Good soup maigre may be mada 
 from whelks. 
 
 WHEY. 
 
 Whey decanted from the curds and sweetened 
 affords a favourite sudorific draught, which 
 may be advantageously partaken of at bedtime 
 whenever there is a threatening of cold in the 
 head. 
 
 WHEY, IRISH (an excellent drink in cases of fever). 
 
 Put two-thirds of a pint of sweet milk into 
 a saucepan, let it boil, and then stir into it a 
 third of a pint of fresh buttermilk. Gently 
 stir the mixture round, and let it boil up. 
 Pour it out, let it settle, and strain off the whey. 
 In Ireland milk is generally turned in the man- 
 ner described, lie whey possesses a slight 
 acidity which is very agreeable : it is of a 
 perfectly clear greenish hue. It is often called 
 two-milk whey. 
 WHEY, LEIMON. 
 
 Let the quantity of milk required boil, and 
 stir into it when boiling as much strained 
 lemon- juice as will turn the milk. Let it boil a 
 minute or two, cool it, and strain off the whey. 
 Add as much water as will make it an agreeable 
 beverage, sweeten, and it will be ready for use. 
 vVhey thus made is less heating than that for 
 which wine is used. When they are liked, the 
 curds may be sweetened, flavoured with nutmeg, 
 and eaten. They are rather indigestible, and 
 should certainly be avoided by an invalid. 
 
 WHEY, VINEGAR. 
 
 Make a pint of milk boil, and stir Into it 
 when boiling a glassful of vinegar. Let it boil 
 from one to two minutes, cool it, and strain 
 off the whey. A little water and sugar may be 
 added if liked. Vinegar whey, like lemon whey, 
 is less heating than wine whey, and it promoteB 
 perspiration ]ust as well. 
 
 WHEY, WHOLESOIMENESS OF. 
 
 When milk is coagulated by the addition of 
 a small piece of rennet, the whey, when 
 separated from the curd, contains some butter 
 
WHE 
 
 104T 
 
 WHI 
 
 and curd in solution; it also holda in solution 
 nearly all the sugar of the milk, and is therefore 
 more liable than milk to ferment in weak 
 stomachs, and produce flatulency. Whey is not 
 so nutritious as milk, but affords an excellent 
 demulcent drink in consumption, coughs, jaun- 
 dice, and some other diseases, either alone or 
 mixed with mineral waters. 
 
 WHEY, WINE. 
 
 Boil a pint of new milk in a saucepan, and stir 
 into it two glassfuls of sherry or raisin wine, 
 or less if that will completely turn it. Bring 
 it again to the point of boiling, let it stand a 
 few minutes, remove the curd, pour off the clear 
 whey, and sweeten. If it is for an invalid a 
 little hot water may be added. The curd is 
 indigestible. 
 
 WHIPPED CREAM (a French recipe). 
 
 Put a quart of very thick cream into a pan.; 
 beat it with a whisk until it becomes entirely 
 frothed, which will soon be the case if the 
 weather be cold; or, to hasten the operation, 
 put some pounded ice with a good handful of 
 salt into a deep pan, and in it set your pan of 
 cream. The froth will have a greater con- 
 sistency if you put into the cream a piece of 
 pcunded gum-tragacanth about the size of a 
 pea, or the white of an egg beaten up ; but the 
 former is preferable. If the froth forms slowly, 
 take it off by degrees with a slicer, and lay it 
 on a sieve covered with a fine cloth to drain till 
 wanted for serving, which ought not to be long, 
 or the froth will fall. What drains from it may 
 be added to the rest and whipped. If the cream 
 will not froth in a quarter of an hour it is not 
 good for tiiat purpose. When it has drained, 
 mix three or four ounces of sifted sugar with it, 
 and flavour according to taste as follows. A 
 spoonful of orange-flower water, or a few orange- 
 flowers pounded mixed with the sugar; or a 
 tea-spoonful of the essence of roses, with a little 
 rose-lake to colour it ; or, pound a quarter of a 
 stick of vanilla with one orunce of sugar, boil 
 and strain, add two ounces of sifted sugar, and 
 mix it with the cream ; or, press the juice from 
 four ounces of strawberries or raspberries, mix it 
 with the sugar, and a little carmine to colour it. 
 Lemon, orange, or any fruit you please may be 
 used in the same way; or a small glassful of 
 maraschino or any other liqueur may be added 
 to the sugar to flavour the cream.. (See Cbeam, 
 Whipped.) 
 WHIPPED CREAM, LEMON. 
 
 Rasp the rind of two large lemons on a piece 
 of sugar, and as the sugar imbibes it, scrape 
 it off into a basin with-some cream, whip it up, 
 and send it to table. It is improved if set on 
 ice or placed in a refrigerator for some time 
 before sending to table. Orange cream is made 
 in the same way. 
 
 WHIPPED JELLY. 
 
 This is used for filling glasses, or as a garnish 
 for sweets, in the same way as whipped cream. 
 The jelly should be just beginning to set, and 
 is then to be put in a good-sized bowl and 
 whipped, preferably with a wicker whisk, until 
 it is frothy. The remnants may be warmed to 
 the right consistency and treated in the same 
 way. Jelly may also be chopped very finely on 
 
 a damp sheet of paper; the more it is chopped 
 the lighter it becomes, and it then answers the 
 same purpose. 
 
 WHIPPED STRAWBERRIES AND CREAM. 
 
 Whip a pint of cream with two ounces of 
 castor sugar and the whites of two eggs to a 
 very stiff froth; then add the strawberries, 
 which should have the stalks taken off ; mix in 
 gradually, pile high on a silver or glass dish, 
 and serve at once. 
 
 WHIPPED SYLLABUBS. 
 
 Mix a quarter of a pint of sherry with two 
 table-spoonfuls of brandy, stir the mixture into 
 half a pint of thick cream, and add a little 
 grated nutmeg, the strained juice of half a 
 lemon, and as much sugar as will sweeten the 
 syllabub pleasantly. Put the cream into 
 glasses, pile whipped cream upon the surface, 
 and serve. Sufficient to fill eight glasses. 
 Probable cost. Is., without the sherry and 
 brandy. Time, one hour or more to whip the 
 cream.. 
 WHIPS. 
 
 Take some small custard-glasses, half fill them 
 with crumbled macaroons, ratafias, and sponge 
 biscuits in equal proportions, pour -upon them 
 a little sherry mixed with a table-spoonful of 
 brandy, spread a thin layer of raspberry jam 
 upon them, and cover with custard. Heap 
 some whipped cream on the top of the glasses, 
 and serve. 
 WHIP SAUCE, RICH, FOR BOILED PUDDINGS. 
 
 Beat the yolks of two eggs in a small basin, 
 and add a pinch of salt, a table-spoonful of 
 powdered white sugar, a small glassful of sherry 
 or of any kind of liqueur, and a few drops of 
 almond, lemon, orange, or vanilla flavouring. 
 Put the basin in a saucepan which contains a 
 small quantity of boiling water, and whisk the 
 sauce over the fire till it looks like frothed 
 cream. Pour it over the pudding, and serve. 
 
 WHISKEY CORDIAL. 
 
 This cordial should be made when white cur- 
 rants are in season. Take the thin rind of a 
 large fresh lemon entirely free from the white 
 bitter part. Put it into a jar with halt a pint 
 of ripe white currants stripped from the stalks 
 and a piece of whole ginger the size of a bean, 
 Pour over the ingredients a quart of whiskey, 
 and let them infuse for twenty-four hours. 
 Strain the liquor, sweeten with half a pound of 
 loaf sugar, let it stand twelve hours longer, 
 and bottle for use. Cork securely. Time, two 
 days. 
 WHISKEY PUNCH. 
 
 Rub three or four large lumps of sugar upon 
 the rind of three lemons till the yellow part 
 is taken off, and add more sugar to make up the 
 quantity to six ounces. Put the sugar into a 
 bowl, squeeze upon it the juice of two of the 
 lemons, and pour upon it a pint and a half of 
 boiling water. Stir the mixture till the sugar 
 is dissolved. Add a pint of whiskey, and the 
 punch will be ready for serving. 
 WHISKEY PUNCH (another way). 
 
 Whiskey, when it can be obtained genuine, is 
 perhaps the purest spirit of any, and the least 
 noxious when taken in large quantities. The 
 
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 1048 
 
 WHI 
 
 sugar is first dissolved in boiling water, and 
 the spirit added either in a tumbler or jug, and 
 that is the general process. Some prefer a 
 little lemon, in which case the sugar should be 
 rubbed on the rind, and the juice added in 
 making the syrup. It is also a common practice 
 to add a spoonful of raspberry jam, which gives 
 a pleasant taste to the beverage. 
 
 WHISKEY SHRUB. 
 
 Boil five pounds of moist sugar to a syrup 
 with a pint of water. Add the strained juice 
 of four pounds of lemons and one pound of 
 Seville oranges. Stir the liquor, and when it is 
 quite cold add half a pint of porter and a gallon 
 of pine whiskey. Pour the mixture into a jar, 
 cork closely, and shake it each day for seven 
 days. Put it in a cool closet, and leave it for 
 five weeks; then bottle, and store for use. 
 
 WHITEBAIT. 
 
 This favourite fish, so highly esteemed by epi- 
 cures, belongs especially to London, being found 
 in the estuary of the Thames. Great differences 
 of opinion exist as to its parentage, many sup- 
 posing that it is the fry either of the shad, the 
 sprat, or the smelt, and others declaring that 
 it is a distinct species of fish. It is a small. 
 
 WHITEBAIT, SERVED WITH UROWN BKEAD AND 
 BUITEtl. 
 
 eilvery-looking fish, from about an inch in 
 length. It first makes its appearance in March, 
 and is to be had in perfection in May, June, and 
 July. It should be procured perfectly fresh and 
 in an unbroken condition. If not to be used 
 immediately, it should be put into iced water as 
 soon as it is brought in. It is served either fried 
 or devilled with cayenne, lemons cut into quar- 
 ters, and brown bread and butter. It requires 
 no sauce. The fry of various species of fish are 
 treated as whitebait, and if not too large are 
 
 WHITEBAIT, COOKED. 
 
 Take the whitebait out of the water with the 
 fingers, drain them, and throw them into a 
 cloth upon which flour has been strewn. Shake 
 them in the cloth to make the flour adhere to 
 them, then toss them in a large wide sieve to 
 free them from the superfluous meal. If the fish 
 stick together, separate them, but they will 
 not do this if they are fresh. Have ready 
 plenty of boiling beef-fat (this is much better 
 
 than lard, which is usually recommended), put 
 the whitebait a few at a time into a wire 
 basket, plunge them in the boiling fat, and 
 leave them for a minute or two. At the end of 
 that time shake the fish to keep them from stick- 
 ing together, and when they are slightly crisp 
 without being browned they are done enough. 
 Drain them from the fat while they are still in 
 the basket, sprinkle a little salt upon them, pile 
 them on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and 
 serve very hot. Send quarters of lemon and 
 brown bread and butter to table with them. 
 Time to fry the whitebait, a few minutes. 
 
 WHITEBAIT, DEVILLED. 
 
 Pry the whitebait in the usual way till it is 
 crisp. Lift the basket out of the fat, shake the 
 fish, and sprinkle over it a little salt and black 
 pepper. Plunge the basket again into the fat, 
 and let it remain for a few seconds. Drain the 
 fish, and turn it upon a napkin. If a red devil 
 is required, sprinkle a little cayenne upon the 
 fish (in addition to the black pepper already 
 used) after it is taken out of the fat for the 
 last time. It "is a common practice with cooks 
 to take whitebait which has been fried and 
 served in the ordinary way, sprinkle black 
 pepper upon it, plunge it into the hot fat, 
 and after allowing it to remain for a short time 
 to drain it, sprinkle it again with pepper, and 
 serve a second time as devilled whitebait. 
 
 WHITEBAIT, MOCK. 
 
 Take cooked or uncooked white fish of any 
 kind ; uncooked fish is, of course, the best. 
 Divide it into strips an inch long and a quarter 
 of an inch wide. Dip these into frying batter, 
 put them into a wire frying-basket, and plunge 
 them into- very hot fat. Let them remain till 
 they are lightly browned. Drain them, pile on 
 a hot dish, and serve with cayenne, quarters of 
 lemons, and thin brown bread and butter. The 
 frying batter may be made by beating together 
 briskly and thoroughly a table-spoonful of flour, 
 a pinch of salt, two table-spoonfuls of milk, and 
 one egg. Flour varies in quality, so that some 
 kinds require more liquid than others. The 
 batter, however, should be a little thicker than 
 cream. Time to fry the fish, ' four to five 
 minutes. 
 
 WHITE BECHAMEL SAUCE, COLD (to mask boiled 
 Poultry, Turbot, etc. which is to be served cold). 
 Make the bechamel of nicely-flavoured white 
 stock, BO strong that it will jelly when cold. 
 A spoonful of gelatine dissolved in a little white 
 stock will answer the purpose if jellied stock is 
 not at hand. Mix with it when hot an equal 
 quantity of milk or cream, strain it into a basin, 
 thicken with arrowroot, and when cold it will 
 be fit for use. It should be thick enough to 
 adhere to the bird, etc. which it is to mask. 
 
 WHITE BECHAMEL SAUCE (economical and good). 
 Good bechamel may be made of the remains 
 of a cold roast fowl. Break up the bones, and 
 put them into a saucepan with two or three 
 bacon-bones, a small carrot, a small onion, a 
 very small piece of mace, two pejipercorns,. and 
 a pinch of salt. Pour over the ingredients as 
 much water as will entirely cover them, and 
 simmer gently for two hours. Carefully re- 
 move the scum as it rises. Half an hour before 
 
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 1049 
 
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 the stock is taken from the Are, stir into it a 
 tea-spoonful of gelatine which has been soaked 
 for half an hour iu two table-spoonfuls of v/ater. 
 Strain the stock into a bowl, and when it is cold 
 lemove the fat from the surface. Put the broth 
 into a clean saucepan, and simmer till it is re- 
 duced to about three-quarters of a pint. Mix 
 with it an equal quantity of boiling cream or 
 milk, slightly thicken with arrowroot, add salt 
 to taste, and it will be ready for use. Time, 
 three to four hours. Probable cost, 4d., exclu- 
 sive of the cold meat, if made with milk. Suf- 
 ficient for a pint and a, half of white bechamel 
 sauce. 
 
 WHITE BECHAMEL SAUCE (to make a smati 
 quantity). 
 
 Put two ounces of butter and two ounces of 
 flour into a saucepan, and with a wooden spoon 
 stir them briskly over the fire to a smooth 
 paste. Add gradually three-quarters of a pint 
 of milk, together with a small onion, two or 
 three sticks of celery, cut up small, half a 
 carrot thinly sliced, half a bay-leaf, a very small 
 sprig of thyme, a bunch of parsley, a little nut- 
 meg, and a pinch of salt. Stir the sauce over 
 a quick fire till it is pleasantly flavoured, strain 
 it into a basin, and it will be fit for use. By 
 increasing the quantities, and preserving the 
 proportions, a larger quantity of sauce may be 
 made if required. Time to boil the sauce, 
 twenty minutes. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient 
 for a little more than half a pint of sauce. 
 WHITE BEET, TO DRESS THE LEAVES OF. 
 
 Pick the leaves, and wash them in three or 
 four waters. Throw them into boiling water 
 slightly salted, and keep them boiling quickly 
 till tender. Drain the water thoroughly froru 
 them, chop them small, and heat them in a 
 saucepan with a little butter, pepper, and salt. 
 They may be used as a substitute for spinach. 
 Time to boil the leaves, twenty minutes or more. 
 
 WHITE CABBAGE, TO PICKLE. 
 
 Take a firm white cabbage ; remove the outer 
 leaves, and sprinkle salt upon it, and leave it 
 for a couple of hours. Wash it in cold water, 
 drain it, and cut it into very thin shreds. Make 
 some brine sufficiently strong to float an egg, 
 pour this when cold over the shredded vegetable, 
 and leave it for a fortnight. Stir every day. 
 Boil for flve minutes as much vinegar as will 
 entirely cover the cabbage, with spices in the 
 proportion of a quarter of an ounce of old gin- 
 ger, a quarter of an ounce of black pepper, a 
 quarter of an ounce of long pepper, a quarter of 
 an ounce of cloves, a quarter of an ounce of tur- 
 meric mixed smoothly with a little cold vinegar, 
 a tea-spoonful of mustard-seed, and a piece of 
 alum the size of a pea to each pint of vinegar. 
 A clove of garlic may be added if liked. Skim 
 the vinegar, and pour it hot over the cabbage. 
 Let it remain three days. Drain off the vine- 
 gar, boil it, and again pour it whilst hot over 
 the cabbage. Put the cabbage into bottles or 
 unglazed jars, divide the spices equally amongst 
 these, and cover the pickle entirely with the 
 vinegar. Add more vinegar (which has been 
 boiled and allowed to get cold) as required. 
 WHITE CAKE. 
 
 Beat one pound of fresh butter to cream. 
 Work in gradually one pound of powdered white 
 
 sugar, one pound of dried flour, a dessert-spoon- 
 ful each of candied orange- and lemon-peel 
 chopped small, an ounce of caraway-seeds, half 
 a nutmeg, grated, a quarter of a pint of cream, 
 five well-beaten eggs, a small glassful of brandy, 
 and a little orange-flower or rose-water. Beat 
 the cake well between every addition. Mix 
 with it a table-spoonful of fresh yeast, cover 
 with a cloth, and put it on the hearth to rise. 
 When sufficiently risen, put it into a well- 
 buttered tin, and bake in a well-heated oven. 
 As soon as the cake is done enough, brush it over 
 with the beaten white of an egg, sprinkle pow- 
 dered white sugar over it, and put it in a cool 
 oven for a short time till the glazing is hard. 
 Time to let the cake rise, about half an hour. 
 Probable cost, exclusive of the brandy, 3e. 4d. 
 
 WHITE CAKE (another way : sometimes caiied one, 
 two, tiiree, four cake). 
 Take a cupful of butter, two cupfuls of sugar, 
 three cupfuls of flour, and four eggs. Beat the 
 butter to cream, and add the sugar, the flour, 
 and lastly the eggs. Flavour the mixture with 
 grated nutmeg or lemon-rind. Dredge flour 
 upon the table, and roll out the paste to the 
 thickness of the third of an inch. Put the cake 
 on a baking-sheet, prick it lightly with a fork, 
 and put it in a well-heated oven. Time to bake 
 the cake, about a quarter of an hour. 
 
 WHITE CAKES (simple method). 
 
 Rub an ounce of butter into half a pound of 
 dried and sifted flour. Add a small pinch of 
 salt, four table-spoonfuls of powdered white 
 sugar, half a tea-spoonful of caraway-seeds, one 
 egg, and as much milk as will make a smooth 
 light paste. Roll it out a quarter of an inch 
 thick, cut it into shapes, and bake these on 
 baking-tins in a quick oven. Time to bake 
 the cakes, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable 
 cost, 4d. for this quantity. 
 
 WHITE CUP CAKES. 
 
 Take as much fresh butter as will fill one cup, 
 as much powdered white sugar as will fill two 
 cups, and as much flour as will fill three cups. 
 Beat the butter to cream, add the powdered 
 sugar and the flour. Whisk the whites of eight 
 eggs to froth, and add them gradually to the 
 mixture, together with a table-spoonful of 
 bicarbonate of soda dissolved in a little hot 
 water, a table-spoonful of rose-water, and as 
 much milk or cream as will make the batter of 
 the consistency of pound-cake batter. Butter 
 some small tins, three-parts fill them with the 
 mixture, and bake in a well-heated oven. The 
 yolks of the eggs may, of course, be used for 
 other purposes. Time to bake the cakes, ac- 
 cording to size. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. for this 
 quantity. 
 
 WHITE FISH AND SAUCE. 
 
 Take three pints of veal stock; put it into a 
 saucepan with the heads and fins of five had- 
 docks or other fish, four onions, a bunch of 
 parsley, three inches of thin lemon-rind, and a 
 little salt and cayenne. Simmer the liquor for 
 an hour, strain it, and put with it a. dessert- 
 spoonful of Strained lemon-juice and a large 
 wine-glassful of light wine. Mince the flesh of 
 a lobster or crab. Thicken the sauce with a 
 little white thickening, skim carefully, add a 
 
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 1050 
 
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 little cream and, if liked, the well-beaten yolk 
 of an egg, and stir the mince into it. Boil the 
 ■- haddocks, put them on a dish, garnish with 
 forcemeat balls, and pour the sauce over the fish. 
 The forcemeat may be made as follows. Tear 
 the flesh of a -small boiled haddock into flakes. 
 Mix with it an equal quantity of bread-crumbs, 
 and add a small proportion of chopped parsley. 
 Bub a little butter into the mixture, and 
 season with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. 
 Bind it together with egg, form it into balls, 
 and fry these in hot fat to a light brown colour. 
 Time, altogether, two hours. 
 
 WHITE KIDNEY BEAN. 
 
 The haricot hlanc, or white kidney bean, de- 
 serves to be introduced more generally into 
 our kitchens. There are various methods of 
 cooking these beans, but the best is to have them 
 softened in the gravy of a leg of mutton; they 
 are then a good substitute for potatoes. They 
 are nearly as good dressed with oil or butter, 
 and Napoleon was exceedingly fond of them 
 dressed as a salad. Of course, we allude here 
 to the bean which, in full maturity, is taken 
 from the pod, and eaten in winter. In England 
 we eat the pod itself (in summer) split, and 
 served with roast mutton and venison. The 
 mature bean, however, makes an excellent dish. 
 WHITE KIDNEY BEANS (^ la Lyonnaise). "^ 
 
 Cut a few onions into dice, a^id fry them in 
 a little butter till they are of a light-brown 
 colour; then add two spoonfuls of Spanish 
 sauce. Let the onions be well done ; season 
 them with pepper and salt; drain the beans, 
 which should have been dressed as above, then 
 throw them into the sauce, and serve up hot. If 
 you have no Spanish sauce, when you have fried 
 the onions add a spoonful of fine flour, and 
 moisten with good gravy, or broth, and a little 
 glaze; then boil very well, and put the beans 
 in as directed. This manner is for entremets, 
 and, they are dressed the same to put under a 
 leg of mutton roasted, or a quarter of mutton 
 a la Lyonnaise. 
 WHITE KIDNEY BEANS (a la Ma'tre d'H8tel). 
 
 White beans, when fresh, must be put into 
 boiling water; but if dry, they must be soaked 
 for an hour in cold water before being boiled. 
 Then boil them in cold water, and replenish 
 with cold water also, which makes the rind or 
 coat tender. White beans must be well done 
 before being dress.ed a la maStre d'hotel, which 
 is done as follows. Put in a stewpan a quarter 
 of a pound of fresh butter, a little parsley 
 chopped very fine, and some pepper and salt, 
 over which lay the beans well drained. Keep 
 moving the stewpan, without using a spoon (for 
 fear of breaking the beans). Then squeeze in 
 the juice of half a lemon, and serve quite hot. 
 
 WHITE KIDNEY BEANS, PUREE OF. 
 
 The beans, which must be boiled beforehand, 
 are to be mixed with the following preparation. 
 Chop some onions, fry them lightly in a little 
 butter, put a little flour to fry in the butter, 
 and when done moisten with a spoonful or two 
 of broth. Let the onions be thoroughly done. 
 Next let the beans heat in the sauce till qijite 
 hot, season well, without pepper, and strain 
 through a tamis. Reduce the puree over a, 
 brisk fire, skim oft the white scum, and before 
 
 serving refine the puree with a bit of very fresh 
 butter and two spoonfuls of thick cream. This 
 dish is to be garnished with fried crusts of 
 bread all round. The same method is used to 
 make the soup a la puree d'harlcot, only put 
 some strong consomme in it, and keep the puree 
 quite clear. Serve with the soup some crumb 
 of bread cut in small squares and fried brown 
 in butter. 
 
 WHITE KIDNEY BEANS, PUREE OF (another way). 
 New white beans should be used for making 
 a puree. If fresh, put them into boiling water ; 
 if dry, into cold water, adding a little butter in 
 either case, to make the skin more mellow. 
 When the beans are done enough, add' a handful 
 of salt to season them. Fry in a little butter 
 a few slices of onions. When they are soft, 
 sprinkle them with half a spoonful of flour; 
 moisten with consomme, and season with a little 
 pepper and salt; skim off the grease. When 
 the flour is done, mix it well with the beans, 
 let them boil a quarter of an hour, and squeeze 
 them well before rubbing them through a tamis. 
 Let the puree be rather limpid, as it is liable 
 to thicken when on the fire. A short time be- 
 fore serving mix a small piece of butter with 
 the puree. 
 
 WHITE PUDDINGS. 
 
 White puddings are frequently made with the 
 white part (otherwise the frill or fraise) of a 
 calf's pluck boiled and minced, and mixed with 
 an equal weight of boiled bacon, soaked bread- 
 crumbs, and sausage-meat, seasoned with salt 
 and pepper, flavoured with boiled onion and 
 spices, and bound together with yolk of egg. 
 The puddings thus made will not keep. They 
 should be put into well-cleaned sausage-skins, 
 and baked in the oven or broiled over a clear 
 fire, and served very hot. Before being used 
 the calf's frill should be thrown into cold water, 
 and kept there till wanted. It should be boiled 
 in salt and water, and cooled before being 
 minced for the pudding. 
 
 WHITE PUDDINGS (another way). 
 
 Take the fry of a small, freshly-killed -pig, 
 with half a pound of fresh pork and half a 
 pound of the inner fat of the pig. Mince all 
 finely together, and mix thoroughly with a 
 handful of fresh parsley-leaves, two sage-leaves, 
 a sprig of chervil, and a moderate-sized onion, 
 all chopped small. Take three ounces of the 
 stale crumb of bread, grate finely, and boil it 
 to a, pulp in half a pint of milk ; beat it with a 
 wooden spoon, and add a heaped tea-spoonful of 
 salt, half a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, a 
 tea-spoonful of white pepper, half a tea-spoon- 
 ful of dry mustard, as much grated nutmeg as 
 will lie on a threepenny-piece, a pinch of pow- 
 dered coriander-seed, and a tea-spoonful of 
 grated lemon-rind. When the seasoning ingre- 
 dients are thoroughly mixed with the boiled 
 bread, stir in the minced meat, and bind the 
 mixture together with the well-beaten yolks of 
 two eggs and the white of one, and work in 
 one ounce and a half of dried flour. A small 
 piece of garlic may be added to the other ingre- 
 dients, if the flavour is not objected to. Three- 
 parts fill some well-prepared pigs-skins with 
 the mixture, and tie tliem firmly in links about 
 six inches in length. Be careful to leave room 
 
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 1051 
 
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 for the mixture to swell. Put the puddings into 
 warm water, let them boil, then simmer gently 
 for two hours. As they swell prick them with a 
 needle to let out the air. Hang them in a 
 cool situation. When wanted, cover with but- 
 tered paper ari'd ,broil the puddingfs over a clear 
 fire; remove the paper, and serve very hot. 
 Time to broil the puddings, about twenty-five 
 minutes. 
 
 WHITE PUDDINGS (another way). 
 
 Cut into slices half a pound of the flesh of a 
 cold roast fowl, then mince it finely, and mix 
 with it four ounces of the inner fat of the pig 
 also minced. Boil a quarter of a pint of bread- 
 crumbs in half a pint of milk till they form a 
 thick paste; skin and chop small one large 
 onion, dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in a 
 stewpan, put in the onion and the minced meat, 
 cover the stewpan closely, and let its contents 
 stew gently -till the onions are tender ; add the 
 soaked bread-crumbs, season the mixture with 
 pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and bind 
 together with the yolks of three eggs; stir the 
 mixture over the fire briskly for five minutes. 
 Clean some skins thoroughly, three-parts fill 
 them with the mixture, tie them firmly in links 
 about six inches in length, and put them into a 
 saucepan with plenty of water, hot but not 
 boiling; bring the water to the boil, then 
 simmer the puddings for ten minutes. Drain 
 them, and hang them in a cool situation till 
 wanted. Before using them, cover with but- 
 tered paper, and broil over a clear fire; serve 
 very hot on a dish covered with a napkin. If 
 more convenient, the flesh of roast pheasants, 
 partridges, hares, or veal, may be used instead 
 of roast fowl. Time, about twenty-five minutes 
 to broil the puddings. 
 
 WHITE PUDDINGS (another way). 
 
 Take eight ounces of beef suet, eight ounces 
 of oatmeal, one ounce and a half of onion 
 shredded very small, an eighth of an ounce of 
 salt, an eighth of an ounce of ground black 
 pepper ; mix these ingredients thoroughly with- 
 out water, and tie them up tightly in a cloth. 
 Boil slowly for an hour and a half in an open 
 saucepan, keeping the pudding always under 
 water, which must be boiling when it is put in. 
 
 WHITE PUDDINGS, SWEET. 
 
 Shred finely half a pound of fresh pork kidney 
 fat, put it into a bowl, and mix with it a pinch 
 of salt, four ounces of flour, four ounces of 
 powdered white sugar, four ounces of currants, 
 cleaned and picked, two ounces of ground rice, 
 a table-spoonful of candied lemon-peel, and the 
 same quantity of candied orange-peel, both 
 chopped small, an ounce of sweet and four 
 bitter almonds, blanched and chopped, and a 
 little grated nutmeg. Mix the dry ingredients 
 thoroughly, moisten with a quarter of a pint 
 of new milk, and bind the mixture together 
 with two well-whisked eggs. Beat the pudding 
 with a wooden spoon for twenty minutes, put it 
 into well-cleaned skins, and be careful to leave 
 room for the mixture to swell. Tie the ends 
 securely, put the puddings into boiling water, 
 and boil gently until done enough. Before 
 serving them remove the skins. If liked, the 
 puddings may be put aside and kept for a while 
 before being used. They must then be hung 
 
 separately in a cool situation, and boiled for a 
 short time, to heat them, before serving. Time 
 to boil the puddings, about two hours and a 
 half ; when boiled the second time, a quarter of 
 an hour will be sufficient. Probable cost. Is. 3d. 
 
 WHITE ROUX. 
 
 Dissolve a pound of fresh butter in a sauce- 
 pan over a slow fire; skim it thoroughly, and 
 pour the pure oily part into a clean saucepan, 
 leaving behind the thick curd at the bottom. 
 Mix into it very gradually one pound of well- 
 dried flour, and stir it over a very gentle fire 
 till it is thoroughly baked but not at all 
 browned. The slower it is done the better, 
 but care must be taken that it does not ac- 
 quire the least colour. Put it into a small jar 
 for use ; it will keep for some time. Sufficient, 
 a tea-spoonful will thicken half a pint of gravy. 
 
 WHITE SAUCE. 
 
 Melt two ounces of butter, and gently fry 
 in it two ounces of lean ham. Do not let it 
 discolour. Stir into it one ounce and a half of 
 flour, pour in, one pint of white stock, and add 
 six button mushrooms cut up small, and two 
 small carrots. Stir the sauce till it boils, draw 
 the pan back, put the lid half on, and simmer 
 gently for a quarter of an hour. Skim away the 
 fat, strain the sauce through a tamis, add half 
 a gill of cream, and the sauce is ready. 
 
 WHITE SAUCE (a French recipe). 
 
 Take one ounce of good butter, put it into a 
 saucepan, stir in a spoonful of fiour, add a 
 glassful of water, put it on the fire, and keep 
 stirring. When the sauce boils, take it off, set 
 it on one side, and salt it. Should it be too 
 thick, add a little water; if too thin, a piece of 
 butter rolled in fiour. Just before serving, 
 beat up the yolks of two or three eggs to stir 
 in; warm the sauce, but take cafe not to let it 
 boil; then put in a dash of vinegar. 
 
 WHITE SAUCE, ECONOMICAL, 
 
 Beat two ounces of flour and an ounce of 
 butter to a smooth paste in a saucepan over the 
 fire. Add gradually a pint of milk and a little 
 pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Stir the sauce 
 over the fire for a few minutes, strain through 
 a pointed strainer, and it will be ready for use. 
 
 WHITE SAUCE FOR FISH. 
 
 Mince two anchovies, and put them into a 
 delicately clean saucepan with a glassful of light 
 wine, a, glassful of vinegar, and an onion stuck 
 with one clove. Simmer all gently together till 
 the anchovies are dissolved, then strain the 
 liquor. Mix a dessert-spoonful of fiour smoothly 
 with a slice of fresh butter in a saucepan; cook 
 thoroughly, then add a quarter of a pint of milk 
 or cream. Stir the sauce over a gentle fire for 
 a few minutes till it thickens, lift it from the 
 fire, and add the strained liquor. Or, mix half 
 an ounce of butter in a saucepan with an ounce 
 of flour; stir in half a pint of cream or milk, 
 two table-spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, a tea- 
 spoonful of essence of anchovy, and a little 
 cayenne. Stir the sauce over the fire for a 
 minute or two, and serve. 
 WHITE SAUCE FOR TURKEY OR FOWL. 
 
 Take the head, neck, heart, and feet of the 
 birds, wash them thoroiighly in hot water, cut 
 
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 1052 
 
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 them into small pieces, and put these into a 
 saucepan with a slice of lean veal, two sprigs of 
 parsley, a sprig of thyme, a square inch of thin 
 lemon-rind, a blade of mace, three peppercorns, 
 and a quart of cold water. Cover closely, and 
 simmer gently till the stock is strong and good. 
 Btrain the liquor through a napkin laid in a 
 sieve, and when cold free it entirely from fat. 
 Put a tumblerful into a saucepan, and let it 
 boil. Stir into it a table-spoonful of flour which 
 has been mixed to a smooth paste with a little 
 cold milk, and add more milk or cream to make 
 it equal the measure of the stock. Stir the sauce 
 over the fire till it is white and thick, and add 
 pepper and salt if required. If the sauce is to 
 be poured over cold poultry, it should be made 
 thick enough to adhere to the birds : therefore, 
 less stock should be used for the sauce, but a 
 little more flour and cream. When more con- 
 venient, the veal may be omitted, and a tea- 
 spoonful of gelatine may be used instead. The 
 liquor in which poultry, veal, or rabbits have 
 been boiled is excellent for making white sauce. 
 Time to simmer the stock, about two hours; 
 to simmer the sauce, a few minutes. Probable 
 cost, 6d., if made with milk. Sufficient for five 
 or six persons. 
 WHITE SAUCE FOR VECETABLES. 
 
 Put a pint of stock made from bones into a 
 saucepan with an inch of lemon-rind, half a 
 blade of mace, and six peppercorns. Let it 
 simmer for half an hour, then strain it. Mix a 
 table-spoonful of corn-flour smoothly with a 
 little cold milk. Stir this into the stock, and 
 a,lso a little more milk to make up the measure 
 to about three-quarters of a pint. Add pepper 
 and salt if required. Simmer the sauce, stirring 
 it well, for about five minutes ; pour it out, stir 
 into it a small piece of fresh butter until it is 
 dissolved, and serve. Time altogether, one 
 hour. 
 WHITE SHARP SAUCE. 
 
 Take a little white stock, and flavour it 
 pleasantly with two or three mushrooms, a 
 bunch of parsley, and some young onions. 
 Strain it, thicken with white thickening, and 
 boil till smooth. Stir into it a little tarragon 
 vinegar to flavour it pleasantly, and add salt 
 and cayenne, together with a small proportion 
 of cream, and just before serving stir into it 
 until dissolved a small piece of fresh butter. 
 When a very rich sauce is required, the well- 
 beaten yolks of one or two eggs may be added. 
 Beat the eggs in a bowl. Let the sauce cool 
 a little, then stir a table-spoonful of it into the 
 eggs, and add the rest gradually. Stir the sauce 
 over the fire for a minute or two, but on no 
 account allow it to boil ; then serve. 
 
 WHITE SOUP. 
 
 The meats to be used in making stock for 
 white soup are veal, fowls, rabbits, and calf's 
 feet, or cow-heel. White soups may be thickened 
 with white roux, rice, ground rice, arrowroot, 
 macaroni, tapioca, vermicelli, pearl barley, etc., 
 and boiling cream or milk should be added. 
 Half milk and half stock is a good proportion 
 for white Boups, and the peculiar seasoning and 
 flavouring must be particularly attended to. 
 It is a good plan to keep a separate stock-pot 
 for the preparation of white soups. 
 
 WHITE SOUP (another way). 
 
 Take three pints of good white stock entirely 
 free from fat and sediment, put it into a stew- 
 pan, and let it heat gently. Blanch two ounces 
 of sweet almonds, and pound them to a paste 
 in a marble mortar with a little water to keep 
 them from oiling. Mince and pound with them 
 a slice of dressed veal or fowl, and add a table- 
 spoonful of stale bread-crumbs and a small blade 
 of mace, finely powdered. When the mixture 
 is smooth, stir it very gradually into a pint of 
 cream, and add a pint of the stock; put into 
 it an inch of thin lemon-rind, and simmer over 
 the fire for a few minutes. Stir into it as much 
 of the stock as will make it of the thickness of 
 cream, and simmer the soup gently for half an 
 hour. Remove the lemon-rind, and serve the 
 soup with toasted sippets. If liked, arrowroot, 
 ground rice, or common flour may be used in- 
 stead of the almonds; and, when cream cannot 
 be had, new milk mixed with the yolks of eggs 
 may be used instead. The eggs should be beaten 
 in the soup tureen ; they should be mixed with a 
 table-spoonful of the milk, the rest of the milk 
 (boiling) should be added gradually, and the 
 soup poured in. By increasing the quantities 
 and preserving the proportions, a large quan- 
 tity of soup may be made. Time to simmer the 
 thickening in the soup, half an hour. Sufiicient 
 for eight or nine persons. 
 WHITE SOUP (another way). 
 
 Take two quarts of good, nicely-flavoured 
 white stock, entirely free from fat (see Stock, 
 White, fob White Soups and Sauces) ; put it 
 into a stewpan, and let it boil up^ Mix four table- 
 spoonfuls of cornflour to a smooth thin paste 
 with a little cold milk. Stir this into the boiling 
 stock, let it boil, then draw it back, and let it 
 simmer gently, stirring all the time, for seven 
 minutes. Season the soup with pepper and salt^ 
 stir into it a pint of boiling cream or milk, and 
 serve very hot. Time, with the stock already 
 made, about an hour. Probable cost, if made 
 with cream, and with stock costing Is. per 
 quart, 4s. Sufiicient for ten or twelve persons. 
 WHITE SOUP (another way). 
 
 Take a knuckle of veal, two calf's feet, two 
 anchovies, a slice of ham, two heads of celery, 
 three onions, a few sweet herbs, a few pepper- 
 corns, and one ounce of sweet almonds blanched 
 and beaten fine. Stew all over a slow fire with 
 the requisite quantity of water, taking off the 
 scum as it rises. Strain the liquor off, and when 
 put upon the fire next day to boil add to it 
 two ounces of vermicelli. Just before it is sent 
 to table, put in half a pint of cream, and give 
 it a gentle boil. 
 WHITE SOUP (another way). 
 
 Into six quarts of water put a knuckle of 
 veal, one large fowl cut into quarters, a pound 
 of lean ham, half a pound of rice, two anchovies, 
 a few peppercorns, two or three onions, a 
 bundle of sweet herbs, and three or four heads of 
 celery. Stew all together till the soup becomes 
 sufficiently strong, then strain it through a hair 
 sieve into an earthen pot ; after it has stood all 
 night, take off the fat, and pour the clear soup 
 off into a stewpan, and put into it half a pound 
 of almonds beaten very smooth, boil a short 
 time, and run the soup through a lawn sieve; 
 
WHI 
 
 1053 
 
 WHI 
 
 then put in a pint of cream and the yolk of an 
 egg. Serve hot. 
 
 WHITE SOUP (i la Reine). 
 
 Roast a fowl, pick the flesh from the bones, 
 free it from skin and sinew, mince a pound of it 
 to a smooth paste, moistening with a quarter of 
 a pint of stock and a slice of fresh butter. 
 Have ready three-quarters of a pound of Caro- 
 lina rice which has been boiled gently till 
 tender in three pints of white stock. Put it into 
 the morter, and pound it with the other ingre- 
 dients. Put the pulp into a stewpan, moisten 
 with two pints of white stock, and rub it 
 through a fine sieve. Heat it again in the stew- 
 pan, and when it is quite hot season with pepper 
 and salt, stir into it half a pint of boiling cream, 
 and serve imnrediately. The stock for this soup 
 may be made by stewing the bones and trim- 
 mings of the fowl with a slice of lean veal, a 
 large carrot, a few sticks of celery, and an onion. 
 If liked, a dessert-spoonful of gelatine may be 
 substituted for the veal. . Time, altogether, 
 three to four hours. Probable cost, 5s. lOd. for 
 this quantity, supposing the fowl to cost 3s. 6d. 
 Sufficient for six or eight persons. 
 
 WHITE SOUP, ECONOMICAL. 
 
 Take a quart of nicely-flavoured stock made 
 from the bones of veal, or the liquor in which 
 veal, mutton, or chicken has been boiled will 
 answer excellently for the purpose. Before 
 being used it must be simmered for an hour 
 with the flavouring ingredients mentioned be- 
 low. Let the stock boil; then stir into it two 
 table - spoonfuls of cornflour which has been 
 mixed to a smooth thin paste with a little cold 
 milk. i3raw it to the side of the fire, and let 
 it simmer gently, stirring all the time, for seven 
 minutes. Season with pepper and salt. Put 
 the yolk of an egg into the soup tureen, beat it 
 with a table-spoonful of milk, and stir in 
 gradually half a pint of boiling milk; add the 
 stock, and serve immediately. When veal bones 
 or cold meat liquor are not at hand, take one 
 pound of the scrag-end of a neck of veal, and a 
 slice of thin lean ham, or a piece of bacon-rind 
 which has been scalded -and scraped; put them 
 into a stewpan with a small carrot, a turnip, 
 one large onion, a blade of mace, a bunch of 
 parsley, a sprig of thyme, and four peppercorns. 
 PoTjr over the ingredients half a gallon of cold 
 water, let the liquor boil, skim carefully, then 
 draw it back, and simmer gently till it is strong 
 and good. Strain it, and when cold, free it 
 entirely from fat, and it will be ready for being 
 converted into white soup, Time to simmer the 
 stock, three hours. Probable cost of the scrag- 
 end of the neck of veal, 7d. or 8d. per pound. 
 Sufficient for five or six persons. 
 WHITE SOUP, FAMILY. 
 
 Take four pounds of the knuckle of veal and 
 one pound of lean ham, put them into a stew- 
 pan, pour over them three quarts of water, and 
 add an onion stuck with a clove, a bunch of 
 parsley, a small sprig of thyme, half a bay-leaf, 
 a small blade of mace, the thin rind of a quar- 
 ter of a small lemon, and eight peppercorns. 
 Let the liquor boil, skim carefully, draw it 
 to the side, and simmer gently till the meat 
 is tender. Take up the veal, and serve it 
 separately with parsley sauce. Strain the 
 
 liquor, and when cold, free it entirely from 
 fat. When it is wanted, put it into a stewpan 
 and let it boil; mix two table - spoonfuls of 
 arrowroot to a smooth paste with three table- 
 spoonfuls of cream, add half apint of new milk, 
 and stir this into the soup. Let it simmer for 
 ten minutes, season with pepper and salt, and 
 serve immediately. Time, two hours to stew 
 the veal. Probable cost pi veal, 5d. or 6d. per 
 pound. Suflicient soup for ten or twelve persona. 
 
 WHITE SOUP, PORTABLE. 
 
 Procure as fine a leg of veal as can be got, 
 remove the whole of the skin and fat, chop in 
 pieces two dozen fowls' feet, wash them well, 
 put them with the veal into a large iron kettle 
 with three gallons of water, stew until the 
 meat is tender enough to separate, then cover 
 down close, and stew gently for eight hours ; 
 take a tea-cup and fill it with the soup; set 
 it where it can quickly cool. If when cold it 
 is hard enough to cut with a knife, strain the 
 soup through a sieve and remove all the fat, 
 pour into cups the clear jelly, put them into a 
 stewpan with boiling water until they are like 
 glue ; let them cool, and when nearly cold run 
 a ring round them and turn them on a piece of 
 new flannel; it will draw all the moisture out 
 of them; turn them in seven hours, and con- 
 tinue until they are quite hard. Put them in 
 tin canisters in a dry place. When any is re- 
 quired, cut a piece about the "size of a walnut, 
 pour a pint of boiling water upon it, stir until 
 the soup is dissolved, season with salt; it will 
 make a basin of strong broth. If for soup, 
 steep some vermicelli in water, boil it, then to 
 one cake of the soup pour one pint of water. 
 If two quarts or four pints of soup are required, 
 take four cakes of the soup, and when melted, 
 set it over the fire and simmer, pour it into a 
 soup-tureen, add thin slices of bread very lightly 
 toasted, and upon them the vermicelli; season 
 to taste. 
 
 WHITE STOCK FOR SAUCES AND SOUPS 
 
 (to make a large quantity). 
 Take a large stewpan perfectly tinned, butter 
 it well, and line the bottom with thin slices of 
 lean ham. Lay upon these some lean veal cut 
 into pieces about two inches square, and also 
 any bones and trimmings of veal or poultry 
 there may be; an old hen will be a valuable 
 addition. Pour in as much stock as will cover 
 the meat ; cover the stewpan, and boil the liquor 
 thickly till it is of the consistency of gum. 
 Draw it back before it can acquire any colour, 
 and fill the stewpan with common stock. Add 
 a handful of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay- 
 leaf, two onions, each stuck with three cloves, 
 half a blade of mace, and a few peppercorns. 
 Simmer the stock gently for about two hours, 
 carefully removing the scum as it rises, strain 
 through a sieve, and put it aside till cold. 
 Remove the fat from the top, and pour the 
 liquor off free from sediment before using it. 
 In filling up the stewpan it should be remem- 
 bered that a quart of stock should be allowed 
 for each pound of veal and fowl combined. 
 
 WHITE-WINE JELLY (Calfs Foot Stock). 
 
 Take one quart of cold calf's foot stock 
 entirely free from fat and sediment, and 
 measured whilst hot. Put it into a saucepan 
 
WHI 
 
 1054 
 
 WHI 
 
 with the thin rind of a small fresh lemon, the 
 strained juice of two lemons, six ounces of 
 roughly-pounded sugar, and the well-whisked 
 whites and crushed shells of two fresh eggs. 
 Mix all well together; then put the sauce- 
 pan on a gentle fire, and whisk its contents 
 thoroughly till the liquor rises high in the 
 pan. Stop whisking at once, put the lid on 
 the saucepan, and let the jelly stand by the side 
 of the fire for twenty minutes, to let the im- 
 purities harden and form a crust. Wring a 
 jelly-bag out of boiling water, pour the con- 
 tents of the saucepan into it, and without 
 squeezing the bag let the liquor run through it. 
 If it is not clear, pour it through a second and 
 even >• third time ; but this should not be done 
 unless it is necessary, as it wastes the jelly. 
 When it is quite clear stir into it from a quar- 
 ter to three-quarters of a pint of white wine, 
 according to taste. Pour the jelly into moulds 
 which have been soaked in cold water, and let 
 it stand in a cool place till stiff. If the jelly is 
 to be served in glasses, pour it into a shallow 
 dish, and when cold, take it up with a dessert- 
 spoon and put it into the glasses. If the calf's 
 foot stock is not very firm, or if the weather 
 is warm, soak from a quarter to half an ounce 
 of gelatine or isinglass in two table-spoonfuls 
 of cold water for an hour. Stir into tliis a 
 cupful of boiling water, and add the liquor to 
 the calf's foot stock. Time to boil the jelly, 
 twenty minutes.' Probable cost, exclusive of 
 the wine and without isinglass. Is. 8d. Suf- 
 ficient for a quart of jelly. 
 
 WHITE-WINE JELLY, MADE WITH ISINGLASS 
 ^ OR GELATINE. 
 
 Soak for an hour an ounce of isinglass or 
 gelatine in as much cold water as will cover it. 
 Pour upon it three-quarters of a pint of boiling 
 water, and stir it until dissolved. Let it get 
 cold ; then add as much white wine as will make 
 up the quantity to one quart. Sherry or Marsala 
 wine may be used, or a mixture of sherry and 
 good raisin wine. Put it cold into a delicately- 
 clean saucepan with the thin rind and strained 
 juice of two fresh lemons, a quarter of a pound 
 of roughly-powdered sugar, and the well-whisked 
 whites and crushed shells of two eggs. Beat 
 the mixture briskly for a minute or two, put it 
 on the fire, and whisk it vigorously until it rises ■ 
 liigh in the pan. Put the lid on, draw the pan 
 l)ack, in order that a crust may form on the 
 liquor. Lift it from the fire, and let it stand to 
 settle for ten minutes. Wring a jelly-bag out of 
 boiling water, pour the contents of the saucepan 
 into it, and let it run through till clear. Be 
 careful not to squeeze the jelly-bag, as this 
 ■would make the jelly thick. Pour the jelly into 
 a quart mould or into two pint moulds which 
 have been soaked in cold water, and keep it in 
 a, cool place till wanted; turn it out upon a 
 glass dish and serve. If it is to be put into 
 glasses, pour it into a shallow dish, let it remain 
 until stiff, and take it up in a dessert-spoon and 
 put it into the glasses. Time to boil the jelly, 
 a quarter of an hour. Probable cost. Is., ex- 
 clusive of the winei 
 
 WHITE-WINE NEGUS. 
 
 Extract the juice from the peel of a lemon by 
 rubbing loaf sugar upon it, or cut the peel of a 
 
 lemon very thin and pound it in a mortar ; cut 
 two lemons into thin slices, add four glassfuls 
 of calf's foot jelly in a liquid state, and small 
 quantities of cinnamon, mace, cloves, and all- 
 spice. Put the whole into a jug, pour one quart 
 of boiling water upon it, cover the jug closely, 
 let it stand a quarter of an hour, and then add 
 a bottle of boiling white wine ; grate half a nut- 
 meg into it, stir all well together, and sweeten 
 to taste. 
 
 WHITE-WINE SAUCE FOR SOLE. 
 
 First boil a large sole in the white wine. To 
 do this, cleanse and trim the sole, and put it 
 into a shallow fish-kettle just large enough to 
 hold it. Skin a small onion, and cut it into 
 dice; sprinkle them over the fish, and add A 
 little salt, a small bunch of sweet herbs, six 
 peppercorns, and one clove. Pour over the sole 
 as much French white wine as will cover it, and 
 .let it boil gently till done enough. Strain the 
 liquor, put it into a small saucepan, place it by 
 the side of the fire, and stir into it, gently and 
 gradually, the yolk of an egg. As soon as it 
 begins to thicken, take it from the fire and pour 
 it over the fish. Time to boil the sole, according 
 to size. 
 
 WHITES OF EGGS, POACHED. 
 
 Butter a plain white jar, such as is used for 
 jam, or a plain tin mould, and put in whites of 
 eggs to an inch or so in depth ; then set the 
 jar in a saucepan containing boiling water, or 
 place it in a potato steamer. Lay a buttered 
 paper over, and cook the eggs until firm; then 
 set by to get cold, and turn out. From the 
 white^ thus treated various shapes, such as 
 strips, stars, etc., may Be cut for garnishing. 
 
 WHITING. 
 
 The whiting, when fresh, is an excellent and 
 delicate fish, light, tender, and easy of diges- 
 tion. It may 1^ caught off different parts of 
 the coast all the year round, but is to be had 
 
 in perfection during the winter months. It 
 does not keep well. 
 
 Whiting are occasionally caught which 
 weigh several pounds, but as a general 
 rule they do not weigh more than a pound 
 and a half. The best whiting in point of 
 flavour are those which are about nine inches 
 long. It is contrary to law to take the fish 
 
WHI 
 
 1055 
 
 WHI 
 
 ■when it is less than six inches long. Whiting 
 are occasionally boiled, hut they are best when 
 fried or broiled. It is usual before frying the 
 fish to skin it, and fasten the tails through the 
 eye-holes. 
 
 WHITING (k ritalienne). 
 
 -Having cleaned the whiting, lay them on a 
 silver or fireproof dish with a small piece of 
 butter, two shallots, and some parsley minced 
 very fine ; put them to cook in a moderate oven. 
 While they are cooking, pour over them a glass 
 of white wine and one of stock. When nearly 
 ready, lift them carefully into a saucepan so 
 "B not to break them. Add to the sauce a 
 spoonful of strong stock, a piece of butler, a 
 few drops of essence of anchovy, and the juice 
 of a lemon. Eeplace the whiting in the dish 
 with the sauce, and serve. 
 
 WHITING (au Gratin). 
 
 Butter a baking-dish, and sprinkle over it 
 some grated bread-crumbs and a little pepper 
 and salt. Moisten these with a glass of white 
 wine, and add a table-spoonful of mushroom 
 ketchup and a tea-spoonful of anchovy. Place 
 the whiting in the dish, and strew all about it 
 two tea-"spoonfuls of finely-chopped mushrooms, 
 and one of parsley and shallot. Cover 'the sur- 
 face of the fish with brown bread-crumbs, and 
 put it in the oven till it is done enough. Take 
 it up carefully with a fish-slicer, put it on a dish, 
 and serve with the sauce poured over it. If 
 not sufliciently browned, a salamander or red- 
 hot shovel may be held over it for a minute or. 
 two. Sometimes the fish is filleted when pre- 
 pared in" this way. Time to bake the fish, half 
 an hour. Probable cost of whiting, 4d. to 8d. 
 each. Sufficient, one for each person. 
 
 WHITING (au Gratin), another way. 
 
 Take two full-sized whiting, empty, scrape, 
 cleanse, and wipe them, then make deep in- 
 cisions on each side with a sharp knife to the 
 depth of a quarter of an inch. Butter a shallow 
 dish thickly; sprinkle upon it a little pepper 
 and salt and two table-spoonfuls of fine bread- 
 raspings. Put in the whiting, sprinkle these 
 with pepper and salt, pour gently over them 
 one to two glassfuls of French light wine, and 
 lay upon the fish two table-spoonfuls of finely- 
 minced mushrooms mixed with a table-spoonful 
 of parsley. Melt an ounce of butter, pour it 
 over the fish, sprinkle two table-spoonfuls of 
 bread-raspings on the top, and bake the whiting 
 in the oven. Send a cut lemon only to table 
 with the fish. If it is preferred that the wine 
 should not be used, three or four table-spoonfuls 
 of pale veal gravy may be substituted for it. 
 Time to bake the whiting, fifteen to twenty 
 minutes. Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. each. Suf- 
 ficient for two or three persons. 
 
 WHITING (au Gratin), another way. 
 
 After having scaled, emptied, and washed the 
 whiting, wipe them clean. Preserve the livers. 
 Take a fire-proof dish, rub the bottom over with 
 butter, and sprinkle it with parsley and mush- 
 rooms chopped very fine, over which lay the 
 ■whiting. Then take some bread-raspings that 
 are not burnt, and sprinkle them over the 
 whiting, with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg ; 
 then again dust the fish over with sweet herbs. 
 
 namely, parsley and mushrooms, chopped very 
 fine. (If shallots are approved of, you may add 
 some.) Next lay small lumps of butter on the 
 whiting; pour into the dish a glassful or two 
 of white wine, a tea-spoonful of each of the 
 following articles — essence of anchovies, cavice, 
 chilli vinegar, Harvey's sauce, etc. — and bake in 
 a hot oven. The whiting will be done within 
 a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes, accord- 
 ing to size. Serve in the dish in which they are 
 cooked, with slices of lemon. 
 
 WHITING (aux Fines Herbes). 
 
 Clean and skin the fish, and fasten it with its, 
 tail in its mouth. Place it on a dish, season 
 with pepper and salt, and sprinkle over it a 
 tea-spoonful of mixed sweet herbs in powder. 
 Lay little pieces of butter here and there thickly 
 upon it, cover with another dish, and bake 
 in a moderately-heated oven till done enough. 
 Turn it once or twice that it may be equally 
 cooked, and serve with the sauce poured over it. 
 Time to bake the fish, twenty to tnirty minutes. 
 Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient, one 
 whiting for each person. 
 
 WHITING, BAKED. 
 
 Cut the heads off some full-sized whiting, 
 empty, and cleanse the fish perfectly, open- 
 ing them for the purpose as little as possible. 
 Dry them, fold them in a cloth, and leave them 
 for a quarter of an hour. Butter a baking-dish, 
 and put them into it backs downwards, that the 
 sauce may cover the thickest part of the flesh. 
 Sprinkle salt and cayenne upon them, and put 
 round them half an ounce of butter kneaded 
 with a salt-spoonful of flour, half a tea-spoonful 
 of chilli vinegar, a table-spoonful of port, and a 
 small pinch of powdered mace for each fish. 
 Lay a double fold of oiled paper upon the dish, 
 and press it upon the fish. Put them in a 
 gentle oven, and bake till done enough. Take 
 them up carefully with a fish-slicer, place them 
 on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and serve 
 very hot. Time to bake the fish, twenty to 
 thirty minutes. Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. each. 
 Sufficient, one whiting for each person. 
 
 WHITING, BOILED. 
 
 Whiting plainly boiled is sometimes recom- 
 mended for invalids, as it is considered light and 
 easy of digestion; but it is insipid food, and 
 this method of cooking the fish cannot be recom- 
 mended. Large whiting should be chosen for 
 boiling. Skin the fish, and skewer it with its 
 tail in its mouth. Put it into boiling water 
 slightly salted, clear off the scum frequently, 
 and simmer the fish till the eyes start and the 
 flesh will leave the bone. Take it up the 
 moment it is done enough. Drain it, remove 
 the skewer, put the whiting on a hot dish 
 covered with a napkin, garnish with parsley, 
 and send melted butter, ancho^vy, shrimp, pars- 
 ley, white, or Dutch sauce to table with it; or, 
 if preferred, merely mix a little fresh butter 
 lightly with the flakes of the fish. Time to 
 boil, from five to eight minutes, according to 
 size. Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient, 
 one whiting for each person. 
 
 WHITING, BROILED. 
 
 Wash the whiting in salted water, and be 
 careful to preserve the liver, as it is by some 
 
WHI 
 
 1056 
 
 WHI 
 
 considered a delicacy. Dry the fish thoroughly, 
 brush it over with oil, roll it in flour. Broil it 
 over a clear, bright fire. Serve on a hot dish, 
 either with a little piece of butter placed upon 
 the fish, or with melted butter or parsley sauce ; 
 or, better still, with a sauce prepared as follows. 
 Beat the yolk of an egg in a gallipot, and put 
 with it two table-spoonfuls of water and twjo 
 table-spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar. Put the 
 gallipot into a saucepan, and surround it with 
 boiling water. Place the pan on the fire, stir 
 briskly for a minute, and add a little pepper, 
 salt, and grated nuitmeg, a tea-spoonful of 
 chopped parsley, and half a tea-spoonful of flour 
 which has been kneaded into two ounces of but- 
 ter. Stir the mixture till it thickens, work in a 
 few drops of strained lemon-juice, and serve. The 
 sauce must not boil. Time to broil the fish, six 
 to twelve minutes, according to size. If liked, 
 the tarragon vinegar can be omitted, and the 
 sauce fiavoured entirely with lemon-juice. 
 
 WHITING, BROILED (another way). 
 
 Emptj- the whiting, scale them, but preserve 
 the livers, which are very delicate. When you 
 have washed and wiped the fish clean, slit them 
 transversely on both sides. Beat the yolk of an 
 egg with a little salt and pepper, and rub some 
 of it over the whiting with a brush. Then dip 
 the fish into crumbs of bread, next into melted 
 butter, and then into crumbs of bread again. 
 Broil them of a fine colour, and serve up. The 
 sauce is to be sent up separately in a boat, 
 whether it is anchovy sauce or melted butter; 
 the reason for which is that if you were to 
 pour the sauce over the fish, the whiting would 
 not prove palatable, and the sauce would get 
 too thick. 
 WHITING, CHOOSING OF. 
 
 Whiting should be procured as fresh as 
 possible. The goodness of the fish may be 
 known by the firmness of its flesh, the bright- 
 ness of its eyes, and the silvery hue of its 
 appearance. Codlings and pollacks are fre- 
 quently sold as whiting. The true whiting 
 may be known by its having no barbel under its 
 chin, by the under jaw being shorter than the 
 upper one, and by its tail being even at the end. 
 In point of flavour, those are the best whiting 
 which are about nine inches long. 
 
 WHITING, CURRIED. 
 
 Take three full-sized whiting. Clean and 
 skin the fish, fillet them neatly, and cut the 
 fillets into pieces about three inches in length. 
 Skin two onions and cut them into dice. Put 
 these into a frying-pan with a little fat, place 
 the pan on the fire, and turn the onions about till 
 soft. When they have steamed a minute, put 
 with them a sour apple chopped small. Rub the 
 onion and the apple through a sieve. Place 
 the pulp in a basin, and mix smoothly with it 
 a table-spoonful of curry-paste or powder, a 
 table-spoonful of ground rice, and as much 
 nicely-flavoured stock as will cover the fish. Put 
 the sauce into a stewpan, and when it boils, put 
 into it the fillets of whiting. Let them boil 
 gently till done enough. Put them carefully on 
 a dish; skim the sauce and pour it over them, 
 and send rice boiled for curry to table on a 
 separate dish. If liked, a little cream may be 
 added to the sauce to enrich it, and if it is not 
 
 Buificiently acid, a little lemon-juice may be 
 stirred into it. Time, a few minutes to boil the 
 whiting. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for four 
 or five persons. 
 
 WHITING, FILLETS OF. 
 
 Empty and cleanse the fish, but do not sjtin 
 them. Pass a knife from the tail to the head, 
 and take off the flesh close to the bone. Divide 
 the fillets into halves crosswise, trim them 
 .neatly, fold them in a soft cloth, and leave them - 
 for awhile that they may be perfectly dried. 
 Season with pepper and salt, sprinkle a little 
 oil and vinegar over them, dip them in beaten 
 white of egg, flour them well, and fry in hot fat 
 till they are crisp and lightly browned. Drain 
 them, press them in white blotting-paper to 
 free them from fat, place in a circle on a hot 
 dish, and serve with melted butter, or with pars- 
 ley, anchovy, shrimp, ravigote, piquant, or 
 oyster sauce. The last-named sauce, if made 
 very thick and white, may be served in the 
 centre of the fillets, lime to fry the fillets, five 
 minutes or more. Probable cost of whiting, 4d. 
 to 8d. each. Sufficient, one small whiting for 
 each person. 
 
 WHITING, FILLETS OF (a la Juive). 
 
 Remove the fillets from three medium-sized 
 whiting, fold each in two, pare neatly, and put 
 in a deep dish ; season with pepper and salt, 
 sprinkle over them two table-spoonfuls of olive 
 oil, a table-spoonful of French wine, and a 
 dessert-spoonful of chopped parsley ; let them lie 
 in soak for from one to two hours. Drain them, 
 dip them in frying batter, fry in hot clarified 
 fat till of a golden colour, drain on a cloth or 
 paper, dish up on a folded napkin, garnish with 
 . fried parsley, and serve with a sauce made as 
 follows. Melt an ounce of butter in a saucepan, 
 stir in one ounce of flour, and cook for a few 
 minutes without browning it. Add gradually 
 half a gill of fish stock, and three-quarters of a 
 pint of white stock, stir until it boils, and let 
 it simmer for twenty minutes. Pound a lobster 
 coral in a mortar with an equal quantity of 
 fresh butter, rub this through a sieve, and stir it 
 into the sauce. Stir in three egg-yolks one at 
 a time. Season to taste with a pinch of cayenne, 
 salt, and lemon- juice. Whisk well over a slow 
 fire, but do not let the sauce boil again. Pass 
 through a strainer, and serve with the fillets. 
 
 WHITING, FILLETS OF (a la Mai'tre d'H6tel). 
 
 Take the fillets of four whiting after having 
 washed them clean. Cut each fillet in two, 
 brush them with yolk of egg, season with 
 pepper and salt, and dip them into bread- 
 crumbs and next into clarified butter. Broil 
 them to a fine brown, dish them in circular 
 form, and mask them with Maitre d'Hotel sauce 
 (which see). 
 
 WHITING, FILLETS OF (a la Tyrolienne). 
 
 Remove the fillets of five medium-sized whit- 
 ing; season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice, 
 roll in flour, dip in egg beaten up with a table- 
 spoonful of oil, roll in fresh bread-crumbs, 
 smooth them with a knife. Dip the ends of 
 each fillet in egg, thrust a small skewer through 
 each to give them the shape of rings, fry in 
 clear hot fat till of a light brown, drain them 
 carefully, pile up on a folded napkin, . pili 
 
WHI 
 
 1057 
 
 WHI 
 
 some fried parsley on top, garnish with quar- 
 tered lemons, and serve with hot tomato sauce 
 in which some butter has been melted. 
 
 WHITIKG FORCEMEAT. 
 
 Skin and fillet two or three whiting, scrape 
 the flesh with a spoon, and rub it through a 
 wire sieve. To twelve ounces of fish thus pre- 
 pared put half a pound of panada {see Panada) 
 and six ounces of fresh butter. Season the 
 mixture with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, 
 mix the ingredients thoroughly, and add gradu- 
 ally three whole eggs and the yolks of two. 
 Poach a small quantity of the forcemeat to 
 ascertain whether or not it is firm, yet light and 
 delicately flavoured. If too stiff, mix a little 
 cream with it. Keep it on ice till required. 
 
 WHITING FORCEMEAT, BOUDINS OF. 
 
 Prepare some whiting forcemeat according to 
 the instructions already given. EoU out the 
 forcemeat on the table in the form of oval 
 cutlets two inches and a half long, one inch 
 and a half wide, and one and three-quarters of 
 an inch thick. Lay these on strips of oiled 
 paper three-quarters of an inch larger than the 
 cutlets. Make a hollow in the centre of each 
 boudin the size of a farthing, and three-quarters 
 of an inch deep. Three-parts fill this with 
 shrimps, mussels, or oysters, cut into small 
 dice and mixed in some very stiffly-reduced alle- 
 mande sauce. Cover the sauce entirely with 
 forcemeat. A quarter of an hour before the 
 boudins are to be served, drop them carefully 
 into some hot but not boiling water slightly 
 salted, and simmer gently till the forcemeat 
 is set. Drain them, dish them in a circle on a 
 hot dish, pour over them some allemande or 
 ravigote sauce, and serve. By way of variety, 
 instead of poaching the boudins, brush them 
 over with egg, roll them in bread-crumbs, and 
 broil over a clear but not too fierce fire. Dish 
 them in a circle, and serve with clear gravy 
 flavoured with lemon-juice. 
 
 WHITING, FRIED. 
 
 Clean, skin, and dry the fish thoroughly in a 
 soft cloth. If they are not perfectly dried, the 
 egg and bread-crumbs will not adhere to them. 
 Turn the tail of each one round and fasten it 
 between the jaws by means of a small skewer. 
 Brush the fish over with lightly-beaten egg, and 
 cover with fine bread-crumbs mixed With a 
 little flour. Pry in plenty of hot fat till they 
 are done through and lightly browned; drain 
 and dry them well, and serve on a dish covered 
 with a napkin. Garnish with parsley. Send 
 anchovy or shrimp sauce to table in a tureen. 
 Small fried whiting are frequently used to gar- 
 nish large fish, such as turbot and cod. The 
 whiting, if very large, should be split open, 
 crumbed, and fried flat, or they may be filleted, 
 rolled, and fried. Time to fry small whiting, 
 about six minutes. Probable cost, 4d. each. 
 Sufficient, one for each person. 
 
 WHITING, FRIED, ECONOMICAL. 
 
 Empty, cleanse, scrape, and wipe the whiting' 
 without skinning them, and score them on each 
 side to the depth of a quarter of an inch with a 
 sharp knife. Dip the fish in milk, flour it well, 
 and fry it in fat till crisp and lightly browned. 
 Drain it, serve on a hot dish covered with a 
 3p 
 
 napkin, and send anchovy, shrimp, or ravigote 
 sauce to table with it. Time, about six minutes 
 to fry the fish. 
 
 WHITING, HOT PIE OF FILLETS OF (Cargme's 
 recipe). 
 Take the fillets of fifteen small whiting, wash 
 and trim them without taking off the skins.; 
 Season highly with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. 
 Spread thinly over them a, forcemeat of crayfish, 
 with truffles or mushrooms; roll up the fiUefe 
 (beginning at the small end) quite round. When 
 thus prepared, spread some of the same force- 
 meat at the bottom and sides of the pie; place 
 upright upon it ten of the fillets, which should- 
 thus cover the bottom; pour upon them two 
 spoonfuls of butter scarcely melted, and put in 
 two more layers of the fillets (ten in each), and 
 pour two or more spoonfuls of butter over them, 
 with two bay-leaves added. Finish the pie in 
 the usual way, and bake it an hour and a quar- 
 ter; at the time of serving pour off all the fat, 
 and mask with a ragout of cafp-rosB, crayfish- 
 tails, mushrooms, and artichoke bottoms^ with 
 tomato or Espagnole Sauce and lemon-juice. 
 
 WHITING, IN BUTTER. 
 
 Clean and skin four whiting, skewer their 
 tails in their mouths, lay them in a baking tin, 
 squeeze a lemon over them, p^per and salt 
 them to taste, put a good-sized pat of butter on 
 each, and bake for twenty minutes. (See also 
 Whiting, Baked.) 
 whiting, paupiettes cf. 
 
 Fillet three or four full-sized whiting. Trim 
 the fillets, season with pepper and salt, and 
 spread upon each a little whiting forcemeat (see 
 Whiting Fobcemeat). Roll them round, tie 
 securely with twine, and wrap them in strips 
 of oiled paper. Put them in the oven, and 
 bake until done enough. Remove the paper, 
 place the paupiettes upright on a dish, put 
 upon the top of each a turned mushroom or a 
 bunch of parsley, pour a little lobster sauce 
 round them, and serve. Time to bake the pau- 
 piettes, about half an hour. Probable cost, 
 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient for five or siX' 
 persons. 
 WHITING POLLACK. 
 
 This fish is not much prized as an article of 
 food. It is common near the shores of Britain 
 and in the Baltic, and is usually about the 
 size of a haddock. The flesh is rather coarse. 
 WHITING POUT. 
 
 The whiting pout, , otherwise known as the 
 bib, the brassy, the bleus, and the pout, is an 
 excellent fish, which is not so highly esteemed 
 as it deserves to be, possibly because it may be 
 purchased at a trifling cost in the places where it 
 is abundant. It possesses the singular power 
 of inflating the membrane which covers the eyes 
 and other parts of the head, which, when thus 
 distended, have the appearance of bladders. 
 It is probably from this that it derives its name 
 of pout. It is a deeper and stouter fish than' 
 the whiting, and its flesh is firmer, drier, and 
 less delicate. It seldom exceeds twelve inches 
 in length. It should be eaten very fresh, 
 and may be cooked in every way like whiting. 
 It is improved by being salted for twelve hours, 
 and still further improved by being dried in 
 
WHI 
 
 1058 
 
 WHI 
 
 a current of air. To vary the flavour of the fish, 
 slightly smoke it over a wood fire, then broil it. 
 The great Soyer pronounced this fish to be 
 quite equal to the red mullet. 
 WHITING PUDDING. 
 
 Take half a pound of the flesh of cold boiled 
 whiting perfectly freed from skin and bone. 
 Pound it to a smooth paste, soften by working 
 gradually into it four ounces of fresh butter 
 which has been beaten to cream, and add three 
 ounces of baked flour, a pinch of grated lemon- 
 rind, a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. 
 Mix the ingredients thoroughly, and bind the 
 mixture together with the yolks of four eggs 
 and the well-whisked whites of three. Form the 
 pudding to a bolster shape, roll it in oiled 
 paper, and tie it in a cloth. Fasten both ends 
 securely, and steam it over fast-boiling water. 
 Turn it out carefully, serve on a hot dish, and 
 send to table with it good white sauce nicely 
 flavoured with lemon-juice in a tureen. Time 
 to steam the pudding, one hour. Probable cost. 
 Is., without the sauce. Sufficient for four or 
 five persons. 
 
 WHITING QUENELLES. 
 
 Prepare some whiting forcemeat, and keep 
 it upon ice till required (see Whiting Fobce- 
 ueat). Take two spoons of the size it is in- 
 tended the quenelles should be, and fill one 
 of them with the forcemeat. Dip the other 
 spoon into boiling water, remove the quenelle 
 with it, and put it in a buttered saucepan. 
 Repeat until there are as many quenelles as are 
 desired. Pour over them some stock, and boil 
 them gently till firm. Take up the quenelles, 
 put them into a dish, pour a little fish sauce 
 round them, and serve. Time to boil the 
 quenelles, about ten minutes. 
 WHITING, SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Whitings may be served with plain melted 
 butter, or with shrimp, anchovy, maitre d'hotel, 
 piquant, tomato, ravigote, white, or Dutch 
 sauce. Sometimes they are sent to table with 
 no other accompaniment than a cut lemon, 
 
 WHITING, SOUFFLE OF. 
 
 Skin and clean three medium-sized whifing, 
 take out the bones, and chop the fish finely. 
 Butter a souffle tin, and fasten a well-buttered 
 paper band round the top ; sprinkle the inside 
 with a few browned bread-crumbs. Put three 
 ounces of butter into a stewpan; when hot stir 
 in two ounces of flour, and cook for a little while 
 without browning. Add half a pint of milk, 
 stir briskly until smooth, then add a gill of 
 cream, and cook a little longer, stirring all the 
 while. Remove from the fire, cool a little, work 
 in the yolks of four eggs, a tea-spoonful of 
 anchovy essence, and lastly the fish. Mix WSU, 
 and season with pepper and salt. Whisk the 
 whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, add this to 
 the mixture, pour it into the tin, and bake in a 
 moderate oven for about forty minutes. 
 WHITING, STEWED. 
 
 Skin, cleanse, and fillet three full-sized whit- 
 ing, trim the fillets neatly, and divide them 
 into halves. Season with pepper, salt, and 
 grated lemon-rind, and sprinkle over them a 
 pinch of powdered mixed sweet herbs. Dissolve 
 a slice of fresh butter in a saucepan, put the 
 
 fish into it, and let them simmer gently for 
 ten minutes. Pour a glass of sherry over them, 
 and add the strained juice of half a lemon. 
 Let them heat three or four minutes. Take 
 Ihem up carefully, put them on a dish, andpour 
 the sauce over them. Serve immediately. Time, 
 a quarter of an hour to simmer the fish. Prob- 
 able cost, whitings, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient 
 for three or four persons. 
 WHITING, WHOLESOMENESS OF. 
 
 The whiting is very tender and delicate; it 
 possesses these qualities in a greater degree 
 than any other fish which our coasts afford. It 
 is not a very nutritive food, but it produces no 
 stimulating action on the system, and not being 
 oily or viscid is easily digested, and therefore 
 well suited to delicate stomachs, and to pa- 
 tients labouring under various complaints, in 
 which the daily use of even the least exciting 
 meat might prove injurious. 
 
 WHITING, WITH CAPER SAUCE. 
 
 Cleanse, scrape, and dry two full-sized whit- 
 ing, and with a sharp knife score them on both 
 sides to the depth of a quarter of an inch. 
 Season with pepper and salt, lay them in a 
 buttered baking-dish, and pour over them a 
 large wine-glassful of light wine. Put them in 
 the oven, and bake gently till done enough. 
 Make the third of a pint of melted butter, stir 
 into it the liquor from the fish, and add two 
 table-spoonfuls of bruised capers. Pour it over 
 the fish, and serve. Time to bake the fish, a 
 quarter of an hour. Probable cost, whitings, 
 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient for two or three 
 persons. 
 WHITING, WITH HERBS. 
 
 Take off the heads and tails, and lay the fish 
 in a stewpan rubbed well with butter, with a 
 handful of mixed herbs chopped fine. Sprinkle 
 with melted butter and a glassful of white wine. 
 When half -boiled, turn the fish; when done 
 enough, take them out. Add to the sauce a 
 piece of butter rolled in flour, let it thicken, and 
 serve the fish upon it with the juice of a lemon. 
 
 WHITING, WITH SHRIMPS. 
 
 Take three whiting, clean and skin them, 
 divide them into fillets by cutting down the fish 
 on each side from head to tail, and taking the 
 flesh off close to the bones; each is to be again 
 divided, giving twelve pieces. Season with salt 
 and cayenne, brush over with warm butter, and 
 roll up. Let them lie close together on a tin, 
 with a little white wine and a glass of French 
 vinegar. Boil the bones down for stock, strain 
 it, and add a little of it to the fish; then cover 
 with buttered paper, and bake for ten to 
 twelve minutes in a good oven. Dish the fish, 
 add the rest of the stock to the gravy in the 
 tin, put in a tea^spoonful of brown roux, and 
 boil up. Season to taste, then stir in a pint of 
 freshly-shelled shrimps. When hot through, 
 pour the sauce into the centre of the dish, the 
 whiting forming an outer circle. 
 
 WHITING, WITH SWEET HERBS. 
 
 Clean, wash, and dry five large whiting, fill 
 the insides with quenelles of whiting, and lay 
 them in a Kettle on a strainer well buttered; 
 cover them with eight ounces of fresh butter 
 in which you have mingled salt, pepper, and 
 
WHI 
 
 1059 
 
 WHO 
 
 grated nutmeg, sulficient for their seasoning. 
 Add two pounds of chopped mushrooms, two 
 spoonfuls of chopped parsley, a small shallot 
 chopped and blanched, the juice of a lemon, and 
 half a pint of Chablis wine. Half an hour before 
 serving, make the fish boil, moistening them 
 from time to time with their liquor ; then make 
 them simmer gently with the heat applied from 
 above and below. When ready to serve, drain 
 and dish them ; pour their liquor over them, and 
 send to table. 
 
 WHITING, WITH WHITE-WINE SAUCE. 
 
 Cleanse, scrape, and dry two full-sized whit- 
 ing, and with a sharp knife score them on both 
 sides to the depth of a quarter of an inch. 
 Season with pepper and salt, and pour over 
 them as much white wine as will cover them. 
 Place them in the oven, and bake gently till 
 done enough. Knead together in a saucepan 
 over the fire an ounce of butter and an ounce 
 of flour. When the paste is quite smooth, 
 moisten it with the third of a pint of water, let 
 it boil, and add the liquor from the baking- 
 dish and a table-spoonful of chopped parsley. 
 Take it from the fire, stir into it until .dissolved 
 half an ounce of fresh butter, pour it over the 
 fish, and serve. Time to bake the whiting, a 
 quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. 
 each. Sufficient for two or three persons. 
 
 WHOLE-MEAL BREAD. 
 
 This bread is composed of wheat ground into 
 meal, and used without any portion — even the 
 bran — being taken from it; and it is highly 
 recommended by some of the first scientific 
 men of the present day as containing a larger 
 amount of nourishment, and being more easy 
 of digestion than that which is made with fine 
 flour only, because it is now ascertained that 
 the bran (which was formerly considered as alto- 
 gether unfit for food) contains in reality more 
 gluten, or nutriment of the best kind, than 
 any other part of the corn ; and it is stated by a 
 very superior writer that it possesses also a 
 peculiar Mind of ferment which has the property 
 of dissolving the bread or flour with which it is 
 mixed, and rendering it more easily digestible 
 in the stomach. To this quality of bran, as 
 well as to the nourishment it yields, are to be 
 ascribed some of the wholesome qualities which 
 many persons have recognised in whole-meal 
 bread. It has been suggested that much less 
 wheat would be consumed in the country if 
 whole meal were used instead of flour, as the 
 waste of the bran would be thereby avoided. 
 The opinion thus expressed must, however, be 
 considerably modified, for while it is true that 
 the whole meal (bran and fine flour) contains 
 chemically more nutritive matter than the fine 
 flour alone, yet the gritty particles that are 
 present in the former cause an unnatural irrita- 
 tion in the alimentary canal, and lead to a 
 quicker evacuation of the partially digested and 
 absorbed food. This explains why brown bread 
 possesses laxative properties, and why labourers 
 fed on it consider that the^ soon become hun- 
 gry again; they feel that it does not last in 
 the stomach, and consequently think there is 
 little nourishment in it. The truth appears to 
 lie between the two opinions, and there can be 
 no doubt that to many persons, especially of 
 
 sedentary habits, the use of whole meal instead 
 of flour would be of considerable advantage. 
 
 WHOLE-MEAL BREAD, TO BAKE. 
 
 To derive from whole-meal bread all the ad- 
 vantages which it will undoubtedly yield, the 
 following points should be observed. The corn 
 should not be damped before it is ground, and 
 it should lie over for some weeks, and be kept 
 very dry after the grinding before it is con- 
 verted into bread. Just at first it will be well 
 to mix a certain portion of flour with it for 
 persons who are not in strong health, or who are 
 unaccustomed to eat brown bread, as it will 
 otherwise occasion a little irritation in the 
 stomach for a few days; but this is easily 
 avoided by using it only in part for a time, 
 and by diminishing at each baking the propor- 
 tion of flour added to it. In making dough 
 with the whole meal, it will be seen that it 
 absorbs more liquid than flour does, and re- 
 quires rather more yeast to render it light, or 
 a longer time to rise. It should not be made 
 very stiff, or it will be too dry after it is baked, 
 yet it should always be workable, and not et^i. 
 to the hands. If well managed, its flavour will 
 be peculiarly sweet and agreeable. It is pre- 
 pared in precisely the same manner as white 
 bread. Whole meal, one gallon ; good flour, one 
 gallon; fresh German yeast, two ounces and a 
 half, or well washed beer yeast, two table- 
 spoonfuls ; salt, four to six spoonfuls, or one 
 ounce to one and a half; warm water, or milk 
 and water, full three quarts. Give it to rise from 
 one hour to one hour and a half the first time, or 
 until it is evidently quite light; the second 
 time about an hour. To be well baked in a 
 moderately-heated oven. Or, whole meal, seven 
 pounds ; flour, three pounds and a half ; solid 
 beer yeast, three large dessert-spoonfuls, or 
 fresh German yeast, nearly two ounces; liquid, 
 rather more than four pints and a quarter; salt 
 as above. Or, whole meal, one gallon ; German 
 yeast, one ounce and a quarter in summer, one 
 ounce and a half in winter, or solid brewer's 
 yeast, three dessert-spoonfuls; all else as in the 
 foregoing recipe. It is to be observed that 
 about an ounce or a moderate-sized table-spoon- 
 ful of salt to the gallon of flour is sufficient to 
 remove any insipidity of flavour from bread, 
 but a larger proportion is liked by many per- 
 sons. Not only will a smaller quantity of yeast 
 be required in summer than in very cold wea- 
 ther for the fermentation of dough, but the 
 liquid used in making it will require to be less 
 warm than in winter. Experienced bread- 
 makers recommend that it should then be used 
 at blood-heat (98°). 
 
 WHOLESOME-FARE PUDDING. 
 
 This favourite bread-and-butter pudding may 
 be thxis made. Cut some thin slices of bread 
 and butter; butter a dish, and lay slices all 
 over it. Strew on a few currants picked and 
 washed clean, a little grated nutmeg and cin- 
 namon pounded or in small pieces; then a roT» 
 of bread and butter, then a few currants again, 
 with the spice as before, and so on, till the dish 
 is full. Sweeten some milk according to the 
 size of the dish, and beat up three eggs, a little 
 salt, and a little more nutmeg grated. Mix 
 them all together, pour the custard over the 
 
WHO 
 
 1060 
 
 WIL 
 
 bread, and bake. Three rows of bread and butter 
 are sufficient for a dish of a moderate size, as it 
 swells considerably. Slices of bread and beef- 
 suet chopped fine will answer the purpose of 
 bread and butter for a family pudding. Let it 
 stand an hour after the milk has been put to it 
 before it is put into the oven. More eggs may 
 be added, and cream used instead of milk, if it 
 is intended to be very rich. 
 
 WHORTLEBERRY, 
 
 This berry sometimes goes under the names 
 of windberry, bartleberry, and bilberry. It 
 grows wild in great abundance upon our heathy 
 commons and uncultivated hills. It is also 
 plentiful in the northern parts of Europe. The 
 fruit is seldom brought to market, but it is 
 much relished by some persons in tarts or 
 cream, and made into jellies. There are several 
 varieties of whortleberry; the purple are rather 
 larger than juniper-berries, and are covered 
 with a fine blue or purple bloom, like the bloom 
 of plums. They are seldom cultivated. This 
 little berry makes an excellent jelly, being 
 tr^ted in exactly the same manner as currant 
 jelly, to which, in flavour, it is far superior. 
 It, however, requires a pound and a half of 
 sugar to each pint of juice. It will keep good 
 two years, and if properly and carefully made 
 wall be better the second year than the first. 
 
 WHORTLEBERRY JAM (a German recipe). 
 
 Moisten the sugar with wine, and boil it well. 
 To four quarts of fruit allow four pounds of 
 sugar and half an ounce of powdered cinnamon. 
 When the sugar boils in transparent bubbles, 
 throw in the fruit, and keep stirring till it is of 
 a smooth consistency and no more thin juice 
 collects on the top. Sprinkle in the cinnamon 
 jjist before the jam is done. 
 
 WICKHAM PEARS. 
 
 Peel some large cooking pears, halve them, 
 core them, and make a hollow in the centre of 
 each. Put three-quarters of a pound of sugar 
 into a stewpan with a pint of water and a tea- 
 spoonful of essence of cochineal, and when the 
 syrup comes to the boil put in two or three 
 cloves and the pieces of pear, taking care that 
 they do not touch; simmer very gently until 
 tender, and let them get cold in the syrup. 
 Whilst these are cooking, take two ounces of 
 crystallised cherries and chop them up ; then 
 put into a basin half a table-spoonful of cream 
 of rice {see Rice, Cbeam), and add gradually the 
 yolks of three eggs beaten up with half a pint 
 of milk; sweeten to taste, and flavour with 
 vanilla. Turn this into a jug and stand it in a 
 saucepan of boiling water, stir till it thickens, 
 then take it off the fire, add the chopped 
 cherries, and, when cold, fill half the pieces of 
 pear with the custard and cover them with the 
 -other pieces. Arrange neatly on a dish, reduce 
 the syrup until quite thick, and when nearly 
 cold pour it over the fruit. 
 
 WIDGEON. 
 
 The common widgeon is plentiful in Britain 
 during winter. The flesh is good for the table. 
 The American widgeon forms also an esteemed 
 food. It breeds chiefly in the Northern parts of 
 America, and is common in winter on the coasts 
 of the United States and the rice grounds. 
 
 WIDGEON, GRAVY FOR. 
 
 Put a quarter of a pint of veal stock into a 
 saucepan with an inch of thin lemon-rind, three 
 leaves of basil, and a thin slice of onion. Let 
 the liquor boil a few minutes, and strain it. 
 Put with it the clear juice of a lemon or of a 
 Seville orange, and add a glassful of port and a 
 little salt and cayenne. Send it to table very 
 hot. Or dissolve an ounce of fresh butter in a 
 saucepan, stir into it the strained juice of two 
 lemons, and add a little salt and cayenne. Send 
 the gravy to table in a tureen and very hot.' 
 Many cooks score the breast of the bird deeply, 
 and pour the gfravy over it ; but this plan is 
 not to be recommended, because many persons 
 prefer widgeon without gravy. Sufficient for 
 two birds. 
 
 WIDGEON, GRILLED. 
 
 Cut -the remains of roast widgeon into joints, 
 well season with cayenne pepper, salt, chopped 
 onion, and mustard, and grill over a clear fire. 
 Arrange on a hot dish, pour some warmed butter 
 over a little chopped parsley, and serve it with 
 the widgeon. 
 
 WIDGEON, HASHED. 
 
 Cut the best parts of the widgeons into neat 
 pieces. Place them on a dish, cover them over, 
 and place them in a cool pantry till wanted. 
 Put the carcases and trimmings of the birds into 
 • a small saucepan with the remains of the gravy' 
 that was served with them, or, failing this, with 
 a little broth or water. Let them simmer gently 
 till the liquor is strong and good, then rub the 
 gravy, with the little pieces of meat that have 
 fallen from the bones, through a sieve. Add a 
 wine-glassful of sherry to the sauce, and put 
 it back into the saucepan with the pieces that 
 were put aside. Let these simmer gently till 
 they are warmed through. Of, course, they 
 must not be allowed to boil. Arrange them on 
 toast upon a hot dish, pour the gravy over, 
 and serve. Time, about half an hour to 
 simmer the pieces. 
 
 WIDGEON, ROASTED. 
 
 Rub the breast of the widgeon with the liver 
 till it is red. Truss it securely, and put it down 
 before a clear fire. Flour it, and baste fre- 
 quently till done. Serve on toast in a dish, and 
 send the gravy to table with it. It is generally 
 preferred that a widgeon should be undercooked. 
 If liked, it may be stuffed with the liver 
 pounded and mixed with bread-crumbs, a little 
 pepper, salt, and grated lemon-rind, bound to- 
 gether with the yolk of an egg. Time to roast 
 the widgeon, a quarter of an hour ; if liked well 
 done, twenty to twenty-five minutes. Probable 
 cost. Is. each. Sufficient, two for a dish. 
 
 WILBERFORCE PUDDING. 
 
 Make a batter the same as for a batter pud- 
 ding. Butter a baMng-dish, put in the batter ; 
 take some apples, rub them clean with a cloth, 
 take out the stalks and blossoms, but do not pare 
 them or take out the cores. Put them in the 
 batter, and bake in a quick oven. If the apples 
 are pared before they are put in the pudding 
 they mash among the batter as soon as they 
 are hot, and make the pudding soft ; but when 
 baked whole the pudding is light, and eats very 
 well. Use butter and sugar for sauce. 
 
WIL 
 
 1061 
 
 WIL 
 
 WILBERFORCE SOUP. 
 
 This is an excellent vegetable soup, which 
 will find favour with maiiy who have a pen- 
 chant for vegetarianism. 
 
 Wash and scrape one bunch of asparagus, 
 put into a pan with a quart of boiling water, 
 add half a teaspoonful of salt and a sprinkling 
 of pepper, and simmer gently for twenty min- 
 utes. Lift out the stalks, remove and set aside 
 the tips; cut the stalks into pieces about an 
 inch in length, return these to the pan and 
 cook until very tender, keeping the pan un- 
 covered. Rub all throiigh a sieve. Now scald 
 a pint of milk in a double boiler, add two 
 tablespoonfuls of butter rubbed to a paste with 
 two tablespoonfuls. of flour, and stir till thick 
 and smooth. 
 
 Then add the asparagus pulp, and if more 
 seasoning is necessary add it now. Put in 
 the asparagus tips, and simmer for five min- 
 utes. Stir in two tablespoonfuls of cream and 
 serve. 
 
 Cost, of course, varies with price of asparagus. 
 
 WILD BOAR. 
 
 This dish is prepared and dressed in the same 
 way as pork. Generally the flesh of the wild 
 boar is cut into fillets or cutlets, or into slices, 
 which are laid in a stewpan with butter, chives, 
 parsley, thyme, basil, etc. When the slices are 
 half done take them off the fire, and let them 
 steep in their own gravy a day and a night; 
 then fry them, and serve with pickled gherkins. 
 
 WILD BOAR CUTLETS. 
 
 Take the under fillets of a wild boar; cut 
 them into slices three-quarters of an inch thick 
 and the shape and size of a cutlet. Lay these 
 in an earthen pan, cover with equal parts of 
 vinegar and white wine, and add a head of 
 garlic and a little salt. Leave them for a 
 couple of hours or longer; drain, and dry them 
 with a soft cloth. Sprinkle over them a little 
 finely-chopped parsley, thyme, and sage, and 
 fry them in butter till done- enough. Take them 
 up, and pour a little of the marinade into the 
 pan with the butter. When it is quite hot, 
 put the cutlets in a dish, pour the sauce over, 
 and serve garnished with sliced gherkins. If 
 preferred, the cutlets, instead of being fried, 
 may be larded and stewed in a very small quan- 
 tity of rich gravy glazed, and served with Robert 
 sauce. Time to fry the cutlets, fifteen to twenty 
 minutes. Probable cost, uncertain. 
 WILD BOAR HAM. 
 
 Take a ham that has hung for ten days or 
 more, singe off the bristles, wash the ham in 
 lukewarm water, and saw off the bone two 
 inches below the knuckle. Put it in a marinade 
 made of equal parts of vinegar and water, to 
 which has been added a tumblerful of light 
 wine, a bunch of sage, and a little salt and 
 cayenne. Let it remain for eight days; drain 
 it, and wipe it dry. Cover with paper that has 
 been soaked in oil, put it down before a clear 
 fire, and baste with the. marinade every quarter 
 of an hour. When done enough, take off the 
 paper, and remove the rind. Brush the ham 
 over with liquid glaze, and put it in the oven 
 for a short time, or, if preferred, instead of 
 glazing it, cover with bread-raspings. Put a 
 paper frill round the knuckle, place the ham on 
 
 a dish, and send with it to table venison sauce, 
 or sauce made of the marinade boiled with a 
 little good gravy and strained, in a boat. If 
 more convenient, the rind may be removed from 
 the ham at first, and then it need lie in the 
 marinade three days only. Wild-boar hams are 
 good either when cooked fresh or after they have 
 been cured and smoked. Time to roast the ham, 
 about three hours. Probable cost, uncertain. 
 
 WILD BOAR, HAUNCH OF, WITH CHERRY 
 SAUCE. 
 
 Get a quarter of young wild boar, fresh and 
 without ritid; take out the thigh-bone, and saw 
 off the thin end; salt the meat, put it in a 
 kitchen basin, pour over it a quart of cold cooked 
 marinade stock (see below), let it macerate for 
 two or three days, drain, wipe it on a cloth, and 
 put it into a deep roasting-pan with lard. Cover 
 the joint with greased paper, roast it in the oven 
 f 0* three-quarters of an hour, basting often with 
 the fat; then add a few spoonfuls of its marin- 
 ade, and cook half an hour longer, basting with 
 its own stock. When done withdraw the roast- 
 ing-pan from the oven, drain the quarter, and 
 spread on its surface a thick layer of bread- 
 crumbs rasped, dried, pounded, sifted, and 
 mixed up with a little sugar and cinnamon, 
 then moistened with red wine, but only just 
 enough to give a proper consistency. Sprinkle 
 over the layer some dry bread-crumbs, baste 
 with the fat of the roasting-pan, into which 
 put the quarter back, and keep it at the en- 
 trance of the oven for twenty minutes, basting 
 often. When ready to serve take it up, put a 
 ruffle on the bone, dish up, and serve separately 
 the following sauce. , Cherry sauce.— Soak in 
 water two handf uls . of black dry cherries, as 
 commonly sold in Germany — that is, with the 
 kernels ; pound them in a mortar, dilute with a 
 glassful of red wine, and pour the preparation 
 into a sugar-pan. Add to it a piece of cinna- 
 mon, two cloves, a little salt, and a plefce of 
 lemon-zest. Let the preparation boil for two 
 minutes, and thicken it with a little diluted 
 potato-flour ; draw the pan to the side of the fire, 
 cover it, keep it there for a quarter of an hour, 
 and pass the sauce afterwards through a. sieve. 
 The cooked marinade mentioned above is pre- 
 pared thus ; First of all some chopped roots 
 and vegetables must be fried with butter, these 
 are moistened with common vinegar, in quantity 
 nearly sufficient to cover the meats intended to 
 be marinaded. When the vegetables are well 
 saturated, mix with the liquid a little salt, 
 cloves, peppercorns, and other spices. The 
 marinade should continue cooking at least 
 twenty-five minutes. Sometimes a little water 
 is mixed with the vinegar, in order to mitigate 
 its pungency. 
 WILD BOAR'S HEAD. 
 
 Under the Norman kings the wild boar's head 
 was considered a noble dish, worthy of the 
 sovereign's table. This, we are told, was 
 brought to the king's table with the trumpeters 
 sounding their trumpets before it in procession. 
 " For," says Holinshead, " upon the day of coro- 
 nation (of young Henry) King Henry II., his 
 father served him at table, bringing up the 
 bore's head with trumpets afore it, according to 
 the ancient manner." 
 
WIL 
 
 1062 
 
 WIL 
 
 WILD BOAR'S HEAD (superlative recipe). 
 
 Remove the hair, snout, and bones from a 
 boar's head, and take off the ears. Sprinkle a 
 little salt upon it, and put it into a meat pickle 
 for three or four hours. Meantime, take the 
 white part of the flesh of four young rabbits, 
 and an equal weight of tongue, boiled fat 
 bacon, and peeled truffles. Cut all into one- 
 inch dice, and mix thoroughly. Take the re- 
 mainder of the rabbit flesh free from skin and 
 gristle, and make forcemeat of it, by chopping 
 it up with four pounds of veal and four pounds 
 of fat bacon, and seasoning all rather highly. 
 Drain the head, wipe it with a soft cloth, 
 sprinkle mixed spices upon it withcfut salt, and 
 cover with layers of forcemeat, intermixed with 
 the truffles, rabbit, etc. Form the head into 
 shape, wrap it in a cloth, and put it into a stew- 
 pan. Pour over it some good nicely-flavoured 
 stock to which a bottle of Madeira or sherry has 
 been added, and let it stew gently till done 
 enough. Take it up, drain it, remove the cloth, 
 wrap the head in a fresh cloth, and, beginning 
 at the snout, bind it round and round with tape. 
 Leave it until quite cold, remove the tape and 
 the cloth, put it in the oven for a minute, and 
 wipe the grease from the surface. Trim the 
 back part of the head neatly. Fasten the ears 
 in their places with small skewers; they should 
 meantime have been boiled separately, but not 
 long eflpugh to cause them to lose their shape. 
 Hide tfie skewers with lard and mutton suet, 
 and rub the head all over till it is black and 
 shiny with a little lard mixed with some very 
 clean soot. Cut out a piece of the skin in the 
 shape of a shield between the eyes, cover the 
 place with lard, and decorate it with a crest or 
 a monogram, or even a few flowers. Stick the 
 tusks, re-modelled in fat, in their places, and 
 fill the eyes with white of egg. and a little piece 
 of beetroot. Surround the head with a wreath 
 of flowers, place it on a dish covered with a 
 napkin, or on a stand, garnish with jelly, and 
 serve. The skin should be removed before carv- 
 ing. Time to boil the head, five hours or more. 
 
 WILD BOAR'S HEAD, IMOCK. 
 
 Take a copper mould, which opens in the 
 middle, the shape of a boar's head (this can 
 be hired), then fill it, after buttering, with 
 mixture such as is used for good brawn. Set 
 it by until cold, and it will turn out perfect in 
 shape. Then coat it with rich glaze, make the 
 eyes by cutting out oval pieces from boiled 
 white of eggs, and cut a hole in the centre the 
 size of a threepenny piece. Fill the hole with 
 aspic, and, when setting, put a piece of truffle 
 in the middle. Failing truffle, use skins of 
 pickled walnut. Put these eyes in position on 
 each side, then make tusks from Brazil nuts. 
 Crack them and boil them, rub the brown skin 
 off, and stick them in an upright position near 
 the mouth. The dish can be ornamented with 
 aspic jelly in blocks, and chopped jelly can be 
 put about the head. A nicely folded napkin 
 should be put at the back of the head, and 
 plenty of lemons, parsley, and fancy shapes 
 of beetroot, etc., be used. 
 
 WILD DUCK. 
 
 Notwithstanding the slightly fishy flavour of 
 the flesh, wild duck is highly esteemed by 
 
 epicures. It is trussed like a tame duck, with 
 the feet left on and turned close to the body. 
 It is often said that a wild duck should be 
 allowed only to fly through a hot kitchen before 
 it is sent to table; and though this is scarcely 
 the case, still the bird is considered to be in per- 
 fection only when it is crisp and brown on the 
 surface, and so much underdone that when it is 
 cut the gravy flows into the dish. Usually the 
 breast of the bird is the only part cared for. 
 A wild duck should be roasted before a brisk 
 fire, and it should be basted constantly. The 
 duck is to be preferred to the drake, although 
 the latter often fetches the higher price. 
 
 WILD DUCK (^ la Ciiasseur). 
 
 Truss the ducks by twisting each leg at the 
 knuckle and resting the claws on each side of 
 the breast, fixing them with a skewer run 
 through the thighs and pinions of the wings. 
 Rub the liver over the breast, and roast under- 
 done. Cut the breast into slices without detach- 
 ing them, catching in a saucepan the gravy that 
 escapes. Add a piece of glaze the size of a 
 walnut, place on the fire, and when hot add 
 four pats of butter, half a glass of port wine, a 
 little coarsely-ground, pepper, and the juice of 
 half a lemon. Shake all over the fire, and, when 
 the butter is melted, pour the sauce over, and 
 serve when perfectly cold. 
 
 WILD DUCK (American fashion). 
 
 Pluck and draw the ducks, wipe the inside 
 with a cloth, and sprinkle salt and pepper over 
 them inside and out. Fill them with crumb 
 of bread which has been thickly buttered and 
 soaked in hot water till quite soft. Truss them 
 securely, put them down to a clear fire, and 
 baste them for ten minutes with half a pint of 
 slightly-salted water in which a sliced onion 
 has been soaked. This is to remove the un- 
 pleasant fishy flavour from the birds. When it 
 has been used, throw the onion water away, and 
 in its place put half a pint of hot water. Baste 
 the birds with a little butter, dredge flour over 
 them, and baste with the water in the pan. 
 When they are done enough, take them up, 
 and serve with gravy which has been made by 
 stewing the giblets, then straining the liquor, 
 thickening it with brown thickening, and stir- 
 ring into it a table-spoonful of black currant 
 jelly, a glassful of port, and a little salt and 
 cayenne. Time to roast the ducks, twenty to 
 thirty minutes. 
 
 WILD DUCK, FILLETS OF. 
 
 As the breast only of the wild duck is usually 
 eaten at table, the fillets from each side of the 
 breast and the slices from the sides are fre- 
 quently cut off after the birds are roasted, and 
 served on toast with orange gravy (see Orange 
 Sauce for Ducks and Wild Fowl) poured over 
 them. When it is to be served in this way the 
 bird should be undercooked. 
 
 WILD DUCK, FILLETS OF, WITH OLIVES OR 
 CELERY. 
 
 Roast three or four wild ducks, and cut off 
 the fillets according to the recipe already given. 
 Score the skin, dish the fillets in a circle, and 
 put into the centre either some Stewed celery 
 (see Celery, Stewed) or some stoned olives. 
 
WIL 
 
 1063 
 
 WIIL 
 
 Send clear brown gravy to table in a tureen, 
 and serve. Time to roast the ducks, ten to 
 fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 4s. to 5s. per 
 pair. Sufficient for a dish. 
 
 WILD DUCK, FILLETS OF, WITH POIVRADE 
 SAUCE. 
 
 Eoast three or four wild ducks, and cut off 
 the fillets according to the recipe already given 
 (see Wild Duck, Fillets of). Score the skin, 
 dish the fillets in a circle, and pour over them a 
 little poivrade sauce. Serve, and send addi- 
 tional sauce to table in a tureen (see Poiveade 
 Sauce). Time to roast the ducks, ten to fifteen 
 minutes. Probable cost, 4s. to 5s. per pair. 
 WILD DUCK, FILLETS OF, WITH TRUFFLES. 
 
 Fry the slices of duck in butter till they are 
 lightly browned. Put them into a clean sauce- 
 pan, pour the sauce over, and add truffles pared 
 and cut into slices. Let them simmer very 
 gently for five minutes, stir a table-spoonful of 
 lemon-juice into the gravy, and let it simmer 
 five minutes longer. Take the slices of duck up 
 carefully, arrange them neatly on a dish, pour 
 the §ravy round them, and serve very hot. 
 Time, about ten minutes to simmer the fillets 
 in the sauce. Probable cost of wild ducks, 4s. 
 to 5s. per pair. Sufficient for a dish. 
 
 WILD DUCK, FILLETS OF, WITH TRUFFLES 
 
 (another way). 
 Clean two wild ducks, and cut off the flesh 
 from the breasts and sides in neat slices. Put 
 the carcases and giblets of the birds into a 
 saucepan with a thick slice of fresh butter rolled 
 in flour, and add half a dozen mushrooms and 
 two shallots finely minced, the parings of two 
 ounces of truffles, and a little salt, cayenne, and 
 pounded mace. Shake the saucepan over the 
 fire for a few minutes. Pour in a gill of good 
 stock, stew the sauce till strong and well- 
 flavoured, then add a large glass of claret. Fry 
 the slices of duck in butter, drain and simmer 
 gently in the sauce till tender. 
 
 WILD DUCK, HASHED. 
 
 Cut the remains of some roast ducks into neat 
 joints and stew them for half an hour very 
 slowly in the remainder of the gravy, adding 
 more if necessary. Pile up high in a dish, pour 
 the gravy over, and garnish with fried croutons. 
 
 WILD DUCK, ROAST. 
 
 The breast is the dainty morsel. Stuff the 
 duck with crumb of bread soaked in port or 
 claret. Truss it securely, rub it over with the 
 liver, flour it, put it down to a clear brisk fire, 
 andl)aste constantly. Let the spit turn rapidly. 
 When the bird is sufficiently roasted (and it is 
 generally preferred underdone), take it up, put 
 it on a dish, withoat gravy, with an uncut 
 lemon on either side of it, and with wild duck 
 gravy in a tureen. The carver will frequently 
 cut a lemon in halves, put salt on one side and 
 cayenne on the other, then score the breast of 
 the duck deeply, squeeze the lemon together 
 over it, and pour a glassful of port upon it. 
 Time to roast the duck, fifteen to twenty-five 
 minutes. Probable cost, 4s. to 5s. per pair. 
 WILD DUCK, ROAST (Perish fashion). 
 
 Take two wild ducks, singe them, wash them 
 inwardly, truss, put them in a kitchen basin. 
 
 pour over them a little cooked marinade, and leit 
 them macerate for five or six hours. At the end 
 of that time lay them in a xoasing-pan with the 
 marinade ; cover them with buttered paper, and 
 cook them, basting often. When half done, 
 add to their cooking-stock two gills of good, 
 thick, sour cream, and finish cooking, gently 
 basting from time to time. Just before serving, 
 draw, divest them of the string, and dish them 
 up. Mix a little gravy with their cooking-stock, 
 reduce the liquid, stirring till it is thickened 
 like a sauce, then pour it over the birds. 
 WILD DUCK, STUFFING FOR. 
 
 A good stuffing can be made for roast duck 
 by soaking bread-crumbs in port, then seasoning 
 them with cayenne and salt. A mixture of 
 bread-crumbs and herbs, in which tarragon pre- 
 dominates, may be used; a little butter should 
 be mixed in this. 
 
 WILD DUCK, WITH ORANGES. 
 
 An orange salad is one of the best adjuncts to 
 a wild duck when nicely roasted (see Obange 
 Salad). A good brown gravy should be served 
 also, well flavoured with orange juice and port, 
 about half a gill of each to a pint of gravy ; a 
 thickening of roux should be added and a bit of 
 glaze. 
 
 WILD FOWL (Hunter's fashion). 
 
 Roast the fowls before a clear fire, baste 
 liberally, and take them up whilst they are still 
 decidedly underdone. Send them to table very 
 hot with rich brown gravy in a tureen. Put 
 near the carver a silver dish which can be placed 
 over a spirit lamp. Put into this dish a spoon- 
 ful of Harvey's sauce, two glassfnls of port, 
 two glassfuls of gravy, the strained juice of a 
 lemon, and a little salt and cayenne. Mix the 
 sauce thoroughly, cut the fillets from the breast 
 of the fowls, and the slices from the sides ; put 
 these into the gravy. Heat the whole over the 
 spirit lamp, and serve very hot. Time, a minute 
 or two to heat the fillets in the sauce. Our 
 American cousins dissolve a little black currant 
 jelly in the sauce thus prepared for wild fowl. 
 Probable cost of wild fowl, very uncertain. 
 
 WILD FOWL, FILLETS OF, WITH BIGARAOE 
 SAUCE. 
 
 Boast three or four wild fowls, take them up, 
 and cut the flesh ofi each side of the breast and 
 from the sides under the wings. Score the skin, 
 and dish the fillets in a circle with a little biga- 
 rade sauce poured over them, and more sent to 
 table in a tureen. This sauce may be made as 
 follows. Take the yellow rind of two oranges 
 without any of the white part, cut it into thin 
 shreds, blanch these in boiling water for two 
 minutes, drain, and put them into an earthen- 
 ware jar with the strained juice of the lemons. 
 Add a pinch of cayenne and a tea-cupful of good 
 brown gravy. Put the jar into a saucepan, sur- 
 round it with boiling water, set the pan on the 
 fire, and keep the water boiling till the sauce is 
 very hot. Stir it all the time ; add a small glass- 
 ful of port to it, and it will be ready for serving. 
 The wine may be omitted. Time, two minutes 
 to boil the sauce. 
 WILD FOWL, PLUCKING OF. 
 
 It is rather a tedious affair to dispossess the 
 generality of wild fowl of the closely-adhesive 
 
WIL 
 
 1064 
 
 WIN 
 
 down wMeB is peculiar to them. The roost effec- 
 tual plan to adopt is to immerse the birds, when 
 divested of their feathers, in scalding water. 
 Allow them to remain there for about two 
 minutes. Have at hand some finely-powdered 
 resin, and rub it well over the fowl with the 
 hand, by which means the whole of the down 
 will be removed. 
 
 WILD FOWL, ROAST. 
 
 It is an old and true figurative saying that a 
 wild duck to be properly roasted should only 
 walk through the kitchen, that the widgeon 
 should run gently through, but that the teal 
 scould scamper through. All these birds must 
 therefore be very little done. If they are of a 
 kind that is usually impregnated with a fishy 
 flavour, which is most inveterate when they are 
 not fat, they should be soaked in and rubbed 
 with a little tarragon vinegar a few hours prior 
 to being put upon the spit. The sauce for wild 
 fowl is served, not in the dish, but in a tureen. 
 It is thus made. Put into a saucepan a quarter 
 of a pint of port wine, the same quantity of 
 meat gravy, two or three shallots, a bit of mace, 
 pepper and salt according to taste, and a dash of 
 cayenne. Let it simmer ten minutes, then 
 squeeze into it the juice of half a lemon, and 
 thicken it with butter rolled in flour. 
 
 WILD FOWL, SALMI OF. 
 
 Cut off the legs, wings, breast, and rump of 
 the wild goose, duck, widgeon, or teal, and put 
 them by for the salmi. The head, neck, back, 
 and giblets, if they are preserved, constitute the 
 parings. Cut four shallots into several pieces, 
 and put them into a very clean stewpani If a 
 plain salmi is wanted it will be necessary only 
 to add a slice of butter, a bay-leaf, a small piece 
 of mace, and half a dozen peppercorns. Let the 
 whole fry uiitil the ingredients are lightly 
 coloured; then dredge in a third of a spoonful 
 of flour, and continue to fry until this is 
 brown ; but be careful that the other ingredients 
 do not burn. Now put in a large glass of red 
 wine and double that quantity of veal gravy, 
 together with the parings of the wild fowl. 
 Season with pepper and salt, and let the whole 
 simmer gently during an hour and a half. Then 
 strain the gravy through a hair sieve over the 
 meat for the salmi, which must be ready in an- 
 other stewpan. Stand this near the fire to get 
 gradually and slowly hot through, but be espe- 
 cially careful that it does not boil. Give it a 
 dash of cayenne pepper. When about to dish 
 up, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon. 
 
 WILD FOWL, SAUCES FOR. 
 
 No. 1. Mix the juice of half a lemon with a 
 glassful of port or claret, three shallots sliced, 
 a table-spoonful of Harvey's sauce, and a pinch 
 of cayenne. Stir the sauce over the fire for five 
 minutes, and strain it into a tureen : serve very 
 hot. No. 2. Put into a tureen a tea-spoonful of 
 essence of anchovies, a tea-spoonful of mixed 
 mustard, a table-spoonful of ketchup, a glassful 
 of claret, and a pinch of cayenne ; mix thor- 
 oughly, and serve. No. 3. Slice three shallots, 
 and put them into a small saucepan with two 
 table-spoonfuls of clear gravy, two table-spoon- 
 fuls of vinegar, and six peppercorns. Simmer 
 the liquor till it is strong and good, strain it, 
 add a little salt, and serve hot or cold. No. 4. 
 
 Put a tea-cupful of gravy into a saucepan with 
 a shallot or small onion finely minced, an inch 
 of thin lemon-rind, a table-spoonful of lemon- 
 juice, and a pinch of cayenne. Simmer for ten 
 minutes, straiS the gravy, add a wine-glassful 
 of port or claret, and serve very hot. A table- 
 spoonful of Harvey's sauce or of mushroom 
 ketchup may be added if approved. (See also 
 Obange Sauce foe Ducks and Wild Fowl.) 
 
 WILD FOWL, TRUFFLED SAUTE OF. 
 
 Cut up the raw birds, and put the heads, 
 necks, and giblets into a stewpan with a bit of 
 lean ham, a sheep's melt, four shallots, half a 
 dozen mushrooms chopped fine, the parings of 
 two or three ounces of truffles, a bunch of herbs 
 (consisting of parsley-root, one bay-leaf, and a 
 very small sprig of thyme, a little bit of mace, 
 four grains of allspice), and a small lump of 
 butter. Let these all fry together until the 
 ham is brown; after which pour in half a pint 
 of port wine and half that quantity of brotjf. 
 Stew and reduce this during two hours; then 
 season and strain it. Now put the limbs of 
 the birds into a stewpan with a pretty large 
 lump of fresh butter ; let them fry a short time, 
 and dredge over them half a table-spoonful of 
 flour. When the meat is coloured on all sides, 
 but without being of a deep brown, pour the 
 sauce into it, adding at the same time the truffles 
 cut into slices, the parings of which were put 
 into the sauce. Let the whole simmer very gently 
 during ten minutes, then squeeze in the juice 
 of half a lemon, and serve up on a very hot dish. 
 
 WILTSHIRE METHOD OF CURING BACON. 
 
 Cut up a moderate-sized hog, sprinkle salt 
 upon the flitches, and let the blood drain from 
 them for. twenty-four hours. Mix thoroughly 
 four pounds of common salt with •ne pound and 
 a half of brown sugar, one pound and a half of 
 bay salt, and six ounces of saltpetre. Bub this 
 mixture into the flitches and turn, and rub 
 them in every part each day for a month. Hang 
 them up to dry ; then smoke them for ten days. 
 
 WILTSHIRE PUDDING. 
 
 Whisk three eggs in a bowl, and mix with 
 them a pint of milk, a pinch of salt, and as 
 much flour as will make a thick batter. Beat the 
 mixture for some minutes, then stir in gently 
 half a pint of picked red currants and a quarter 
 of a pint of ripe raspberries. If more con- 
 venient, the raspberries may be omitted. Tie 
 the pudding in a cloth, and plunge it into fast- 
 boiling water; keep it boiling quickly till done 
 enough. Turn it out carefully upon a dish, 
 and cut it into slices threfe-quarters of an inch 
 thick. Keep these in their original position. 
 Put a little butter and brown sugar between 
 the slices, and serve the pudding hot with sauce 
 in a tureen. Time to boil the pudding, two 
 hours. Probable cost, lOd. to Is. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 
 WINDERMERE KETCHUP. 
 
 Procure the largest mushrooms, with broad 
 flaps and red gills, gathered before they are 
 discoloured by the sun. Wipe them with a 
 clem cloth, and break them into an earthen 
 pan. Upon every three handfuls of mushrooms 
 put a handful of salt, so as to form layers, until 
 all the mushrooms are in the pan. Stir them 
 
WIN 
 
 1065 
 
 WIN 
 
 "well with a stick or a wooden spoon three or 
 iour times a day until the mushrooms are dis- 
 solved, which process may be hastened by press- 
 ing the several lumps. Now throw the whole 
 into a boiler, and set it over a slow fire, when 
 it must simmer until it is become perfectly 
 liquescent. Strain the hot liquid through a 
 iair sieve, then boil it gently again with some 
 allspice, peppercorns, horse-radish, a few shal- 
 lots, and two or three bay-leaves. After it has 
 simmered some time, and all the dark scum is 
 taken from it, strain it into a large bottle or 
 jar, which, when the ketchup is quite cold, must 
 be well corked, and a bladder tied over the cork. 
 At the expiration of three months boil it again 
 "with a few peppercorns, some fresh allspice, a 
 stick of horse-radish, a few more shallots, and 
 two bay-leaves. Let it simmer half an hour 
 after it has boiled up, then strain it into small 
 bottles ; when the ketchup is quite cold, cork 
 the bottles, tie a bladder over the corks, and 
 ■cover the bladder with sealing-wax. It will then 
 keep any length of time. 
 
 WINDMILL PANCAKES. 
 
 These are pink pancakes prepared as follows. 
 Boil a large red beetroot until it is very tender ; 
 then peel it, cut it into thin slices, and pound 
 it to a pulp in a marble mortar. Add the yolks 
 of five eggs, two table-spoonfuls of flour, four 
 of cream, plenty of powdered loaf sugar, half a 
 nutmeg, grated, and a wine-glassful of brandy. 
 Rub the whole into a batter, and fry the pan- 
 cakes with lard. Serve them up hot, garnished 
 with green sweetmeats. 
 
 WINDSOR BEANS (k ta Poulette). i 
 
 Windsor beans are to be served at a good 
 table only when very young and fregh-gathered. 
 Boil them in salt and water. When nearly done 
 drain them, and stew them in a little sauce 
 tournee with a bunch of parsley and green 
 onions, a little savory chopped very fine, and 
 a small lump of sugar. When the beans are 
 sufficiently reduced, throw in a thickening made 
 of the yolks of two eggs and a little thick cream. 
 Send them up in a short sauce, 'and properly 
 seasoned. 
 
 WINDSOR BEANS (preserved in tins). 
 
 Gather the Windsor beans when they are 
 the size of green peas; put them into tins 
 holding a pint each, with a tea-spoonful 
 of salt, a sprig of green winter savory, and 
 half a gill of water. Let a tinman solder 
 down the covers; then put the tins into a 
 large stewpan. Cover with boiling water, and 
 boil quickly for half an hour. Take them from 
 the fire, and when cold examine them carefully. 
 Solder again any parts that leak, and keep the 
 tins in a cool place. When the beans are to be 
 used, open the tin, and turn its contents, liquor 
 and all, into a saucepan with a sprig of parsley 
 and a pinch of powdered white suga^ When the 
 iDcans are hot, strain off the liquor, put the 
 vegetables into a tureen with a small piece of 
 butter, and serve. Time to boil the beans in 
 the tins, half an hour. 
 
 WINDSOR, OR BROAD BEANS. 
 
 These beans are great favourites with many 
 persons, but they are not good unless they are 
 young and freshly gathered. They are in season 
 
 in July and August. To boil them, first shell 
 them, then put them into slightly-salted and 
 fast-boiling water. When tender, drain them, 
 dish them quickly, and serve with parsley sauce. 
 They are the usual accompaniment to boiled 
 bacon. They should be boiled separately. Two 
 or three recipes for dressing these beans are 
 given under Beans, Bboad, ob Windsob. 
 
 WINDSOR PIES OF (MEAT, POULTRY, OR GAME. 
 
 Take a pound of lean, uncooked mutton from 
 the loin or leg, or an equal quantity of any 
 other kind of meat, poultry, or game. Cut it 
 into dice, season with pepper, salt, chopped 
 mushrooms, finely-shredded parsley, and minced 
 shallot, and moisten with good gravy. Line 
 some patty-pans with pastry, three-parts fill 
 them with the mixture, cover them with pastry, 
 and press the edges securely together. Make a 
 little slit in the centre of each patty, and orna- 
 ment it. Brush the patties over with egg, and 
 bake in a well-heated oven. When done 
 enough, dish them on a napkin, and serve. 
 Time to bake the patties, about twenty minutes. 
 Sufficient, a dozen for a dish. 
 
 WINDSOR PUDDING. 
 
 Pare and core half a dozen cooking apples, 
 and boil or bake them till quite soft. Beat 
 them to a smooth pulp, and with. them an ounce 
 of best Carolina rice boiled in milk till it is 
 tender, an ounce of powdered white sugar, a 
 tea-spoonful of lemon- juice, and a pinch of 
 grated lemon-rind. Whisk the whites of four 
 eggs to snow, stir them into the pudding mix- 
 ture, and beat it again till it is very light. Dip 
 a pudding-mould into boiling water, take it out, 
 and whilst it is hot pour the mixture into it ; 
 cover it, put it into a large pan of boiling water, 
 and keep it boiling till the white of the egg is 
 firm. Turn the pudding out, . and pour round 
 it a custard made with the yolks of the eggs. 
 Serve immediately. 
 WINDSOR SYLLABUB. 
 
 Put a pint of sherry into a china bowl, sweeten 
 it, and flavour with grated nutmeg. Pour upon 
 it a pint and a half of milk, stir briskly, and 
 serve the syllabub frothed. 
 
 WINDSOR VEAL PIE. 
 
 Pill a dish with alternate layers of lean veal 
 cut into slices half an inch thick, and thin slices 
 of lean ham, and season each layer with pow- 
 dered mace and white pepper. Place a dish 
 with a weight ovef the meat, and press it for 
 half an hour. Pour upon it as much strong veal 
 gravy (that will jelly when cold) as will cover 
 it, and add a slice of fresh butter. Cover the 
 dish with good pastry, and bake till done 
 enough. Serve cold. Time to bake a moderate- 
 sized pie, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 
 fillet of veal. Is. a pound. 
 
 WINE. 
 
 The term wine is more strictly and specially 
 applied to express the fermented juice of the 
 grape, although it is generally used to denote 
 that of any sub-acid fruit. The presence of 
 tartar is, perhaps, the circumstance by which 
 the grape is most strongly distinguished from 
 all the other sub-acid fruits that have been 
 applied to the purpose of wine-making. The 
 juice of the grape, moreover, contains within 
 
WIN 
 
 1066 
 
 WIN 
 
 itself all the principles essential to vinifioation, 
 in such a proportion and state of balance as to 
 enable it at once to undergo a regular and com- 
 plete fermentation, whereas the juices of other 
 fruits require artificial additions for this pur- 
 pose ; and the scientific application and the ad- 
 justment of these means constitute the art of 
 making wines. 
 
 WINE, APRICOT. 
 
 Take ten gallons of river-water and hoil it for 
 half an hour; then set it to cool in a clean 
 vessel. Take forty-five pounds of ripe apricots, 
 cut them into thick slices, and put them with 
 the juice into the water, adding twenty - five 
 pounds of the best loaf sugar. Stir well, cover 
 closely, and leave till the following day; then 
 boil the fruit and liquid together, stir in the 
 whites of eight eggs well beaten, and take off 
 the scum as it rises. When the liquor is clear 
 and the fruit reduced to a pulp, press, strain 
 through a fine sieve into a cooler, add the 
 kernels, and stir well. Spread good yeast on 
 both sides of a slice of toast, and when the 
 liquor is at the proper warmth work it well two 
 days ; strain it through a jelly-bag into the cask, 
 put on the bung lightly, and let the liquor work 
 over, keeping the cask full. When it has done 
 fermenting, add two quarts of French brandy 
 and two ounces of white sugar-candy. Put in 
 the bung, fasten it well, keep the liquor for 
 twelve months, and then bottle it. It must re- 
 main a year or more in bottle, for apricot wine 
 being very rich is improved greatly by age. 
 
 WINE, BEETROOT, RED. 
 
 Bruise six quarts of ripe sloes (the fruit of 
 the blackthorn) in a stone mortar, breaking the 
 stones, boil them twenty minutes in two quarts 
 of soft water, strain the liquor, and pour it into 
 a stone jar. Scrub well with a soft brush and 
 wash thirty pounds of purple beetroots, but on 
 no account cut or break the skins, and boil 
 them slowly till tender. When cold, peel and 
 slice them intj a tub, pour on them the sloe 
 liquor, cover them up, and the following day 
 add the rinds of three lemons and four Seville 
 oranges, and twelve pounds of Smyrna raisins 
 cut in halves. Boil for three-quarters of an 
 hour twenty-six pounds of strong moist sugar 
 with nine gallons and a half of soft water, 
 skimming it well, and pour it hot into the tub 
 upon the sliced beetroots, et?. ; stir well, and 
 when lukewarm work it well with eight table- 
 spoonfuls of strong yeast, cover it up, and let it 
 remain three days ; then straiu the liquor, and 
 filter it into the cask, filling to the bung. 
 Let it work out, and when the fermentation is 
 over, put to the wine six ounces of sugar-candy 
 and a quart of French brandy. Then stop it 
 up for a month, rack it off, filter the lees, and 
 put all again into the cask with an ounce of 
 the best isinglass dissolved, and two ounces of 
 bitter almonds blanched and slit. Secure the 
 bung, and let the wine stand eighteen months; 
 then bottle it, seal the corks, and keep it a year 
 longer. This is a nice light wine, and has fre- 
 quently been introduced as claret. It improves 
 greatly with age. 
 
 WINE, BIRCH. 
 
 A wine used to be made from the sap of the 
 birch tree, though now it is scarcely known. 
 
 The sap contains so much saccharine matter as 
 to be fermented; it is to be obtained in the 
 month of March, when it begins to ascend, by 
 boring a hole in each tree, about a foot from the 
 ground, large enough to admit a faucet, which 
 is to be inserted. The sap will flow for several 
 days into a vessel placed to receive it, without 
 injury to the tree. Having obtained as much as 
 is necessary, the hole should be stopped with a 
 peg. To a gallon of this sap add a quart of 
 honey or two pounds and a half of sugar, and 
 boil them together, stirring the whole; add also 
 two ounces of hops for every nine gallons, a 
 few cloves, and a rind or two of lemons. Fer- 
 ment this with yeast, transfer it to the cask, 
 refine with isinglass, and proceed as in making 
 other British wines. In about two months the 
 wine may be bottled, and in two months more 
 it will be fit for use. It will improve by keeping. 
 
 WINE BISCUITS. 
 
 Dry one pound of flour and sift it, then rub 
 into it a quarter of a pound of butter, and add 
 three heaped table-spoonfuls of powdered white 
 sugar, one well-beaten egg, and as much thick 
 cream as will make a stiff paste. Eoll it out 
 very thin, stamp it into rounds with the top 
 of a wine-glass, and bake the biscuits on tins 
 in a well-heated oven. A few currants or cara- 
 ways may be added if liked. Time to bake the 
 biscuits, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 
 lOd. for this quantity. 
 
 WINE, BITTER. 
 
 Take a quart each of red and green camomile, 
 and bruise them with a pint of wormwood, all 
 being picked nicely from the stalks; lay them 
 in a vessel, and add two ounces of camomile 
 flowers, a handful of rosemary, and an ounce of 
 gentian root. Boil for half an hour four gallons 
 of soft water with ten pounds of good loaf sugar, 
 two ounces of ginger bruised, and the whites 
 of four eggs well beaten, skimming till quite 
 clear. Pour the liquid scalding on the herbs, 
 cover up close, and let them infuse for four 
 days. At the end of that time warm a part of 
 the liquor, mix it with the rest, and work it 
 with yeast ; strain it into a small cask, and on 
 fermentation ceasing, add an ounce of dissolved 
 isinglass and a pint of brandy ; stop up the 
 bung, and keep the wine for nine months ; then 
 bottle in pint bottles, seal the corks, and keep 
 for six months longer. 
 
 WINE, BLACKBERRY. 
 
 To make an excellent strong blackberry wine, 
 proceed as follows. Take forty-five quarts of 
 ripe blackberries well picked and pressed, and 
 mix them with ten pounds of good honey and 
 twenty-six pounds of strong, bright moist sugar. 
 Boil with twelve gallons of soft water and the 
 whites of twelve eggs well beaten, till the liquor 
 is reduced to ten gallons, skimming it till it is 
 perfectly clear. Strain the liquor into a tub, 
 and let it stand till the following day; then 
 pour it clear of the lees and boil it again for 
 three-quarters of an hour, adding the lees, fil- 
 tered twice, and two ounces of isinglass dissolved 
 in a quart of water. Skim well, and put in two 
 ounces of Jamaica pepper, two ounces of cloves, 
 and two ounces of best ginger, all bruised, and 
 tied loosely in a piece of muslin. Put into 
 your cooler the thin rinds of six Seville oranges. 
 
WIN 
 
 1067 
 
 WIN 
 
 and a pint of lemon-juice; strain the liquor 
 upon them, stir well, and when cool enough 
 work it with a pint of fresh yeast stirred well 
 into a gallon of the liquor. Cover close, and let 
 it work for four or five days, removing the top 
 scum and stirring twice daily ; then strain, and 
 filter it into the cask, put in the bung tightly, 
 keep the cask well filled up, and when it has 
 ceased fermenting, let a day elapse, and add 
 two quarts of French brandy and an ounce 
 and a half of isinglass dissolved in a little 
 water and mixed with a gallon of the wine, 
 an ounce of bitter almonds blanched and 
 slit, and six ounces of sugar-candy broken 
 small. Secure the bung, paste strong white 
 paper or coarse linen over it, and place plenty 
 of sand (wetted a little) over all. Keep the wine 
 in a cool cellar for two years, then bottle it. 
 Seal the corks, and keep it in the bottles for 
 another two years before using. If allowed to lie 
 for a longer time it will still improve, and will 
 be found a beautiful wine. 
 
 WINE BROWNING, FOR FLAVOURING AND 
 COLOURING GRAVIES. 
 
 Dissolve an ounce of fresh butter in a small 
 saucepan, and stir into it a quarter of a pound 
 of powdered white sugar. As soon as it begins 
 to colour draw it to the side, and stir into it 
 very gradually a pint of good port. Pour it 
 into a fresh saucepan, and put with it six cloves, 
 twelve peppercorns, three minced shallots, one 
 blade of mace, one inch of stick cinnamon, the 
 thin rind of a lemon, a wine-glassful of mush- 
 room ketchup, and a little salt. Stir the mix- 
 ture over a gentle fire for ten minutes, strain it 
 into a basin, let it get cold, skim it, and bottle 
 for use. Time, ten minutes to simmer the sauce. 
 Sufficient, a few drops will pleasantly flavour 
 and colour half a pint of gravy. 
 
 WINE CAKES (a Danish recipe). 
 
 Take three-quarters of a pound of flour, half 
 a pound of fresh butter, half a -pound of sugar, 
 and a gill of white wine; mix these ingredients 
 with the yolks of two eggs, knead all well, and 
 roll the paste out. Cut it with a glass into 
 small cakes ; brush.these over with white of egg, 
 strew them with sugar-almonds or pounded cin- 
 namon, and bake of a light colour. 
 
 WINE CAUDLE. 
 
 Beat with a whisk the white of one egg and 
 the yolks of eight. Stir into it a bottle of white 
 wine, a pint of water, the peel of a lemon, and 
 half a pound of lump sugar. Set the mixture 
 on the fire, and keep stirring it. Remove it as 
 soon as it boils. Pour the caudle into a bowl 
 or small glasses. It should be eater with 
 sweet biscuit. 
 WINE, CHERRY (a French recipe). 
 
 Bruise together fifteen pounds of cherries not 
 quite ripe, and two of currants ; add two-thirds 
 of the cherry kernels. Put the whole in a small 
 cask with a quarter of a pound of sugar to each 
 quart of juice. Let the cask stand in sand, and 
 cover the bung tightly while the wine is working, 
 which will occupy nearly three weeks. The 
 cask should be of the size just to hold the juice, 
 or the latter must be made up in the above 
 proportions to the size of the cask, as it is 
 necessary it should be full. Carry on the fer- 
 
 mentation in the usual manner, as in grape or 
 gooseberry wine. When- the fermentation is 
 over, bung up the cask, and in about two months 
 the wine will be fit to be drawn off and bottled. 
 
 WINE, CHERRY (another way). 
 
 Pick Morella cherries, not ov^-ripe, from their 
 stalks, mash them in a mortar, and press to detach 
 the pulp without bruising the stones, and let the 
 mass stand twenty-four hours. Press the pulp 
 through a coarse hair sieve, and to every three 
 gs^Uons add from eight to nine pounds of loaf 
 sugar. Put the mixture into a cask, add yeast, and 
 allow it to ferment, then rack the wine from its 
 lees as soon as it grows clear. Some makers of 
 cherry wine crack the stones and put them with 
 the bruised kernels in a bag suspended from the 
 bung-hcle, so as to be covered by the liquid during 
 the fermentation of the wine, which thus acqjiires 
 a nutty flavour. A good deal of this wine is made 
 in Russia, where it is a common practice to add 
 honey to the cherries. 
 WINE, CHERRY, RED. 
 
 Take some ripe red cherries, press them, 
 breaking the stones amongst the fruit, till you 
 have obtained ten gallons of pure juice. Add 
 twenty-four pounds of strong, bright moist 
 sugar, stir well, and let the liquor stand three 
 days covered up, stirring twice every day. 
 Press the fruit in a horse-hair bag, and add the 
 result to the juice; then mix well, and strain 
 into a sweet cask, adding five pints of French 
 brandy, the rinds of six lemons pared very thin, 
 and an ounce of the best isinglass dissolved in a 
 little water. Secure the bung tightly, and let 
 the wine stand for six months in a cool cellar; 
 then rack it off, filter the lees perfectly fiiie, 
 and put all into the same cask again with three 
 ounces of sugar-candy broken into large pieces. 
 Fasten the bung as before, keep the wine 
 eighteen months, and then bottle it. This ex- 
 cellent wine deserves keeping till it is very old. 
 A rich white cherry wine may be made as follows. 
 Take all kinds of ripe cherries, and bruise them 
 in a tub till you have extracted eight gallons of 
 juice ; add sixteen pounds of good moist sugar, 
 and set the liquor aside (covered closely up) for 
 three days. Put two gallons of soft water upon 
 the fruit, stir well for twenty minutes, and 
 infuse for the same length of time. Then pare 
 the rinds off four Seville oranges and three 
 lemons — pare them very thin — stone and shred 
 four pounds of Smyrna raisins, put them into a 
 sweet ten-gallon cask with the juice of the 
 oranges and lemons strained, and six ounces of 
 sugar-candy. Mix the liquors from the two ves- 
 sels and strain well ; then filter through a flannel 
 bag, and fill the cask ; leave the bung out four 
 or five days; add a pint and a half of brandy 
 and an ounce of isinglass dissolved in a little 
 light wine, and stop up the cask safely for 
 eighteen months. Then bottle the wine, seal 
 the corks, and in six or eight months it will be 
 fit for use. This wine will remain good for three 
 years, not longer. 
 WINE, CIDER. 
 
 Mix sixteen gallons of apple- juice, 'sixteen pounds 
 of honey, four ounces of white tartar ; enclose 
 in a bag one ounce each of cinnamon, cloves, 
 and mace, and suspend it in the mixture while 
 
WIN 
 
 1068 
 
 WIN 
 
 fermenting. When the fermentation is complete, 
 add one gallon of rum. 
 WINE, CLARY. 
 
 Take nine gallons of cold soft water, six pounds 
 of honey, thirty pounds of the best loaf sugar, and 
 the whites of twelve eggs beaten to a froth ; mix 
 all these together, and boil for an hour and a half, 
 skimming and stirring nearly all the time. Pour 
 the liquor into a cooler and add four quarts of clary 
 tops in flower ; work it at the proper temperature 
 with good fresh ale yeast, keeping it closely covered 
 up aiid stirred well. Pick, stone, and cut in pieces 
 fourteen pounds of good Malaga raisins ; pour over 
 them three gallons of lukewarm water that has 
 been well boiled, stir well, and let them steep for 
 five days. At the end of that time press the fruit 
 in a hair bag, strain the Uquor from the flowery, 
 add to it the rinds of ten lemons pared thin and 
 their juice strained, and put this into a cask which 
 it will fill, and keep it open three or four days until 
 the fermentation has entirely ceased. Then add 
 two quarts of French brandy, and stop it up for 
 three months, after which rack it off into a clean 
 cask, filter the lees, and fill the first cask again, 
 adding six ounces of sugar-candy bruised and an 
 ounce of isinglass dissolved in two quarts of wine. 
 Stop it up securely, and keep it eighteen months 
 in a cool, dry cellar ; then bottle the wine, seal 
 the corks, and in a twelvemonth it will be fit 
 for use. 
 WINE, COLTSFOOT. 
 
 Take ten gallons of soft- or river-water, and boil 
 with it for three-quarters of an hour twenty-six 
 pounds of moist sugar and the whites of ten eggs well 
 beaten, skimming well all the time. Pour the hqUor 
 boiling hot on three pecks of fresh-gathered colts- 
 foot flowers and ten pounds of Malaga raisins 
 stoned and cut small ; cover the vessel up close, 
 and let them infuse three days, stirring three 
 times daily. Then make two gallons of the Uquor 
 scalding hot, stir it well into the rest, and add 
 six or seven table-spoonfuls of good yeast ; keep 
 it well , mixed and covered up, imtil it has worked 
 freely, then strain it into your cask upon three 
 ounces of the best ginger bruised and the thin 
 rinds of six Seville oranges, and let it remain open, 
 covering the bunghole with a tile until the wine 
 has ceased fermenting. Add three half-pints of 
 French brandy and a bottle of strong Madeira, stop 
 the cask up securely, and keep the wine twelve 
 months ; then bottle it, and drint in six months more. 
 This is a valuable wine for. its medicinal properties. 
 
 WINE, COWSLIP. 
 
 Take seven pounds of moist sugar, two gallons 
 and a half of water, and two ounces of hops, and 
 boil them together. Pare the rinds of eight lemons 
 or Seville oranges, or a part of each ; ' pour the 
 boiling liquor over them ; when this is cool squeeze 
 the juice from the fruit, and add this to the liquor. 
 Ferment the whole with yeast in the usual way, and 
 put it into the cask. Gather cowslips on a fine day, 
 carefully picking out all stalks and leaves. Put 
 into the cask for every gallon of wine as much 
 of the flowers as would equal a quart when fresh 
 gathered; stir well tiU the flowers sink. Dissolve 
 three ounces of isinglass in a httle of the wine, and 
 return it to the rest to fine ; in a few days bung it 
 up close. In six months the wine will be fit for 
 
 bottling, but it will improve by being kept longer 
 in the cask. By managing as just described, the 
 wine will be fined in the cask, and will be as good 
 from the cask as if bottled, which will be a great 
 saving of trouble. 
 
 WINE, CURRANT, RED. 
 
 Bruise eight gallons of red currants with one 
 quart of raspberries. Press out the juice, and to 
 the residuum, after pressure, add eleven gallons of 
 cold water. Add two pounds of beetroot sUced 
 as thin as possible to give colour, and let them infuse, 
 stirring frequently, for twelve hours ; then press 
 out the liquor as before, and add it to the juice. 
 Next dissolve twenty pounds of raw sugar in the 
 mixed liquor and three ounces of red tartar in 
 fine powder. In some hours the fermentation will 
 commence, which is to be managed as in the case 
 of gooseberry wine. When the fermentation is 
 completely over, add one gallon of brandy ; let the 
 wine' stand for a week, then rack off, and let it 
 stand for two months. It may no w be finally racked 
 off, bunged up in the cask, and set by in a cool 
 cellar for as many years as may be required to 
 ameUorate it. 
 
 WINE, CURRANT, WHITE. 
 
 Bruise forty pounds of fruit in a tub holding 
 fifteen or twenty gallons, and add to it four gallons 
 of water. Stir the whole well, and squeeze till 
 the pulp is thoroughly separated fi:om the skins. 
 Leave these materials at rest for about twelve 
 hours, and then strain them through a canvas bag 
 or fine hair sieve, and pass one gallon of fresh water 
 through the marc. Dissolve twenty-five or thirty 
 pounds of white sugar in the juice thus obtained, 
 and make up the whole quantity by an addition of 
 ten gallons and a half of water. The proportion of 
 sugar here given is for a brisk wine : if a sweet wine 
 is required, there must be forty pounds of sugar. 
 White sugar is recommended as much the best ; if 
 moist sugar be used, somewhat more will be neces- 
 sary. The must being now prepared, the fermenta- 
 tion and subsequent treatment must be exactly 
 the same as for gooseberry wine. If brandy is to 
 be added, it should be done towards the end of 
 the fermentation in the cask. For the above 
 quantity some will put in a quart of brandy alone ; 
 others first mix it with honey. Whether the wine 
 should be racked off from the lees at the end of six 
 months, put into a fresh cask for six months longer 
 before it is bottled, or be allowed to remain the 
 whole time in the lees, must depend upon the state 
 of the wine. The bottling should be carefully 
 attended to. 
 
 WINE CUSTARD. 
 
 Rub off the zest of a lemon on six ounces of sugar ; 
 beat eighteen eggs to froth with half a table-spoonful 
 of flour — potato flour, if it is at hand — a quart of 
 wine, and a cupful of orange-flower water. Set the 
 mixture on the flre, and keep stirring it till it froths. 
 Pour the custard into cups or bowls, and serve 
 with macaroons. 
 
 WINE CUSTARD SAUCE. 
 
 Take the yolks of eight eggs, beat them up till 
 thick, mix with them sugar to taste, the juice of two 
 lemons, half a pint of white w^ine, and a little more 
 than half that quantity of water. Set the liquid on 
 the flre, beat with a whisk till it froths : whenever 
 
WIN 
 
 1069 
 
 WIN 
 
 the sauce boils, take it off. This sauce is to be 
 eaten with pudidings and tarts. 
 
 WINE, DAMSON. 
 
 Boil for half an hour ten gallons and a half of 
 filtered river- water with thirty-two pounds of strong 
 moist sugar and the whites of ten eggs well beaten, 
 skimming it well ; then add thirty-two quarts of 
 ripe prune damsons well picked from the stalks 
 and stoned, and boil them half an hour longer, 
 skimming and stirring until the Mquor is beautifully 
 bright. Strain it off the fruit in a fine hair sieve 
 into your cooler, and when at the proper tempera- 
 ture work it with fresh yeast, spread on toast, 
 three or four days. Then draw it ofif the sediment, 
 put it into the cask, filter the lees, and fill up, letting 
 it work out at the bung. When it has ceased hissing 
 put to it a quart of French brandy, and stop it up 
 safely, pasting paper over the bung. Let it stand 
 for six months, then rack it off, filter the lees through 
 . flannel twice folded, and filling the cask again, add 
 an ounce of isinglass dissolved and mixed with 
 two quarts of the wine. Secure the bung well, and 
 let it remain two years ; then draw it off and bottle, 
 seaUng the corks. This being a rich wine, requires 
 age, and should not be drunk until it has been 
 bottled two years or more. 
 
 WINE, DAMSON (another way). 
 
 Gather the damsons when dry, stone them, and 
 mash them with your hand. Put them into a 
 vessel with a f auset, and to eight pounds of fruit add 
 one gallon of water. Boil the water, and put it to 
 the fruit scalding hot. Let it stand about two 
 days, then draw it off ; and to every gallon of 
 liquor put three ^unds of fine sugar. Let the 
 barrel be full and stop it closely. If it is a large 
 quantity, let the wine stand twelve months before 
 you drink it. 
 
 WINE DECANTERS, CLEANING OF. 
 
 Use a little pearlash or soda, and some cinders and 
 water. Binse the decanters well out with clean 
 water. 
 
 WINE, ELDERBERRY. 
 
 The elderberry is well suited to the production of 
 wine. The juice contains a considerable quantity 
 of the principle necessary for a vigorous fermenta- 
 tion, and its beautiful colour imparts a, rich tint 
 to the wine made from it. It is, however, deficient 
 in sweetness, and sugar must be added to it. The 
 following is an approved recipe : — Take one gallon 
 of ripe elderberries and put them into about half the 
 quantity of water till they burst, beating them fre- 
 quently with a stick. Strain the liquor, and return 
 it to the copper. To produce eighteen gallons of 
 wine, twenty gallons of this liquor are required, and 
 for whatever quantity the liquor falls short of this, 
 water must be added to make it up. Boil this 
 along with fifty-six pounds of coarse moist sugar 
 for half an hour, and it is to be fermented in the 
 usual manner when sufficiently cooled, and then it 
 is to be tunned or put into the cask. Put now into 
 a muslin bag a pound and a half of ginger bruised, a 
 pound of allspice, two ounces of cinngimon, and four 
 to six ounces of hops ; suspend the bag with the 
 spice in the cask by a string not long enough to let 
 it touch the bottom ; let the Uquqr work in the 
 cask for a fortnight, and fill up in the usual way. 
 The wine will be fit to tap in two months, and is 
 
 not improved by keeping like many other winee. 
 Elderberries alone may be used. 
 
 WINE, ELDERBERRY (another way). 
 
 Take ten gallons of elderberries, ten gallons of 
 water, forty-five pounds of white sugar, eight 
 ounces of red tartar, and ferment with yeast in 
 the usual way. When in the cask, four ounces of 
 ginger -root sliced or allspice, and three ounces of 
 bitter almonds, suspended in a bag, may be allowed 
 to infuse in the Uquor while it is fermenting ; they 
 are then to be removed. Brandy may be added or 
 not. When the wine is clear, which will be in 
 about three months, it may be drawn off from the 
 lees and bottled. The spices may be varied accord- 
 ing to taste. 
 
 WINE FROM THE LEAVES AND STALKS OF 
 THE GRAPE. 
 
 The following is Dr. MaccuUoch's recipe for mak- 
 ing this wine : — " The young leaves may be taken 
 at any period from vines which have been culti- 
 vated for this purpose, and from which no fruit ia 
 expected. In other cases they may be obtained 
 from the summer pruning. The tendrils and green 
 shoots are equally useful. The claret vine may be 
 cultivated for this purpose, in which case the wine 
 will have -a red colour. The leaves are best when 
 young, and should not have attained more than half 
 their growth ; they should be plucked with their 
 stems. In the neighbourhood of London they 
 require to be carefully washed to remove the taste 
 of soot which so often adheres to them : sometimes 
 that ia insufficient. From sixty to eighty pounds 
 of such leaves being introduced into a tub of suffi- 
 cient capacity, seven or eight gallons of boiling water 
 are to be poured on them, in which they are to 
 infuse for twenty-four hoiurs. The hquid being 
 poured off, the leaves must be pressed in =>. press 
 of considerable power ; and being aubsequently 
 washed with an additional gallon of water, they are 
 again submitted to the action of the preaa. The 
 sugar, varying from twenty-five to thirty pounds, 
 is then to be added to the mixed Hquors, and the 
 quantity being made up to ten gallons and'a half, 
 the process for making gooaeberry wine is to be 
 followed. Although the water is here directed to 
 be boiUng hot, it must be remembered that it is 
 immediately cooled down to that temperature which 
 is most efficacious in extracting the several soluble 
 ingredients of the fruit." 
 
 WINE FROTH, FOR DESSERT. 
 
 Take the yolks of twelve eggs and a pint of wine, 
 and place them in a. deep saucepan on the fire, 
 adding the grated peel of a lemon and sugar to 
 taste. Beat with a whisk till the mixture of the 
 eggs becomes a thick froth, then stir in the whites,- 
 wUeh must be beaten to snow. Whisk the froth 
 until it thickens, then pour it into cups or glasses ; 
 if into glasses, the froth should first be allowed to 
 cool a Uttle. 
 
 WINE, GILLIFLOWER. 
 
 To three gallons of water put six pounds of the 
 best powdered white sugar; boil" the sugar and 
 water together for half an hour, keep skimming as 
 the scum rises ; let it stand to cool. Beat up three 
 ounces of syrup of betony with a large spoonful of 
 ale yeast, put this into the hquor, and brew it well' 
 together ; then, having a peck of gilUflowers out 
 
yyiM 
 
 1070 
 
 WIN 
 
 from the stalks, put them into the liquor, let them 
 infuse and work together three days covered with a 
 cloth ; strain the wine, put it into a cask, and let it 
 settle for three or four weeks ; then bottle it. 
 
 WINE, GINGER. 
 
 Take eighteen or twenty pounds of sugar, dissolve 
 in nine gallons and a halt of boiUng water, and add 
 ten or twelve ounces of bruised ginger-root. Boil 
 the mixture for about a quarter of an hour, and 
 when nearly cold, add to it half a pint of yeast, and 
 pour it into a cask to ferment, taking care to fill the 
 cask from time to time with the surplus of the 
 liquor reserved for that purpose. When the fermen- 
 tation ceases, rack off the wine, and bottle it when 
 transparent. Very often the outer rind of a few 
 lemons is boiled together with the ginger intended 
 for the wine, to impart to the wine the flavour of 
 lemon-peel. 
 
 WINE, GOOSEBERRY. 
 
 The following is Dr. MaceuUoch's recipe for 
 making gooseberry wine : — " The fruit must be 
 selected before it has shown the least tendency to 
 ripen, but about the time when it has attained its 
 full growth. The particular variety of gooseberry 
 is perhaps indifferent ; but it will be advisable to 
 avoid the use of those which in their ripe state have 
 the highest flavour. The Oreen Bath is perhaps 
 among the best. The smallest should be separated 
 by a sieve properly adapted to this purpose, and 
 any vmsound or bruised fruit rejected, while the 
 remains of the blossom and the fruit-stalk should 
 be removed by friction or other means. Forty 
 pounds of such fruit are then to be introduced into 
 a tub properly cleaned and of the capacity of 
 fifteen or twenty gallons, in which it is to be 
 bruised in successive proportions, by a pressure 
 sufiicient to burst the berries without breaking the 
 seeds or materially compressing the skins. Four 
 gallons of water are then to be poured into the 
 vessel, and the contents are to be carefully stirred 
 and squeezed by the hand until the whole of the 
 juice and pulp are separated from the solid matters. 
 The materials are then to remain at rest from six 
 to twenty-four hours, when they are to be strained 
 through a coarse bag with as much force as can 
 conveniently be applied to them. One gallon of 
 fresh water may afterwards be passed through the 
 marc for the purpose of removing any soluble 
 matter which may have remained behind. Thirty 
 or twenty-five pounds of white sugar are now to 
 be dissolved in the juice thus procured, and the 
 total bulk of the fluid made up with water to the 
 amount of ten gallons and a half. If I name two 
 quantities, it is because the fruit itself varies in 
 quality, and it depends on the operator to dis- 
 tinguish. The old recipes allow forty pounds, of 
 which the consequence is, invariably, a sweet wine, 
 while it fails of being brisk in nine cases out of ten. 
 And the smaller proportion here given will most 
 frequently ensure a brisk wine, if the operator will 
 but attend to the progress of the fermentation and 
 the treatment as formerly described. The liquor 
 thus obtained is"the artificial miist, which is equiva- 
 lent to the juice of the grape — that is, made to 
 resemble it as nearly as possible. It is now to be 
 introduced into a tub of sufficient capacity, over 
 which a blanket or similar substance, covered by a 
 board, is to be thrown, the vessel being placed in a 
 
 temperature varying from 55° to 60° of Fahrenheit's 
 thermometer. Here it may remain for twelve or 
 twenty-four hours, according to the symptoms of 
 fermentation which it may show, and from this tub 
 it is to be drawn off into the cask in which it is to 
 ferment. When in the cask it must be fiUed nearly 
 to the bung-hole, that the scum which arises may 
 be thrown out. As the fermentation proceeds, and 
 the bulk of the liquor in the cask diminishes, the 
 superfluous portion of mtist, which was made for 
 this express purpose, must be poured in, so as to 
 keep the liquor still near the bunghole. When the 
 fermentation becomes a little more languid, as may 
 be known by a diminution of the hissing sound, the 
 bung is to be driven in, and a hole bored by its 
 side, into which a wooden peg, called the spile, is 
 to be fitted. After a few days this peg is to be 
 loosened, that, if any material quantity of froth has 
 been generated, it may find vent. The same trial 
 must be made after successive intervals, and when 
 there appears no longer any danger of extensive * 
 expansion, the spile may be permanently tightened. 
 The wine thus made must remain over the winter 
 in a cool cellar, as it is no longer necessary to 
 provoke the fermenting process. If the operator is 
 not inchned to bestow any further labour or expense 
 on it, it may be examined on some clear and cold 
 day towards the end of February or beginning of 
 March, when, if fine, as it will sometimes be, it may 
 be bottled without further precautions. To ensure 
 its fineness, however, it is a better practice to 
 decant it towards the end of December into a 
 fresh cask, so as to clear it from the first lees. At 
 this time also the operator will be able to determine 
 whether it is not too sweet for his views. In this 
 case, instead of decanting it, he will stir up the 
 lees, so as to renew the fermenting process, taking 
 care also to increase the temperature at the same 
 time. At whatever time the wine has been de- 
 canted, it is to be fined in the usual way with 
 isinglass. Sometimes it is found expedient to 
 decant it a second time into a fresh cask, and again 
 to repeat the operation of fining. All these re- 
 movals should be made in clear, dry, and, if possible, 
 cold weather. In any case the wine must be bottled 
 during the month of March. The wines thus pro- 
 duced will generally be brisk, and similar in their 
 quaUties (flavour excepted) to the wines of Cham- 
 pagne, with the strength of the best Sillery, if the 
 larger proportions of sugar have been used, but 
 resembling the inferior kJads with the smaller 
 allowance. Inattention, or circumstances which 
 cannot always be controlled, will sometimes cause 
 it to be sweet and still, at other times to be dry. In 
 the former case it may be manufactured the follow- 
 ing season, by adding to it that proportion of juice 
 from fresh fruit which the operator's judgment may 
 dictate, and renewing the fermentation and sub- 
 sequent treatment as before. In the latter case, as 
 its briskness can never be restored,- it must be 
 treated as dry wine, by decanting into a sulphured 
 cask, when it must be fined and bottled in the usual 
 manner. Such dry wines .... are much 
 improved by kpeping, nor ought they to be drunk 
 under five or six years." 
 
 WINE JELLY, CLARET. 
 
 Take a pint of water, half a pint of good claret, 
 a quarter of a pound of loaf-sugar, the rind and juice 
 
WIN 
 
 1071 
 
 WIN 
 
 ol two large lemons, a clove, a small piece of stick 
 cinnamon, and an ounce and a half of sheet gelatine. 
 Put all into' a clean pan, add the crushed shells 
 (previously washed) and the whites of two eggs 
 beaten up with a spoonful or two of water. 
 Whisk until the mixture boils, then set the pan aside 
 for ten minutes. It must never be stirred after 
 boiUng point is reached, and the crust which forms 
 on the top must remain intact. Strain through a 
 jelly bag or damask napkin, and pour into a mould. 
 Set in a cold place to solidify. Sufficient for a 
 pint and a halt mould. Probable cost. Is. 4d. 
 
 WINE JELLY, MADEIRA. 
 
 This jelly is made just Uke calf s foot jelly. When 
 the jelly is nearly clarified, pour into the same 
 stewpan a bottle of Madeira. As the operation of 
 clarifying takes away the strength of the wine, you 
 must add half a bottle of brandy to it. You must 
 observe that this jelly will keep for several days, 
 and that accordingly what you have left, and what 
 is sent down from table, will be sufficient to supply 
 you with another entremet some other day. This 
 is a common jelly, which cooks frequently serve ; 
 therefore, in order to avoid monotony, you must 
 ornament it with another jelly, which make as 
 follows : — Take four spoonfuls of the wine jelly, 
 break the yolks of four eggs into a stewpan, beat 
 the eggs with the jelly, and lay it on the fire to 
 thicken ; then strain it through a sieve, lay it on 
 ice in a basin, and use it for the same purpose, to 
 decorate as in the recipe Wintek Jelly, Mosaic. 
 It sometimes happens that the jelUes made of calf's 
 feet will break when you turn them upside down 
 into a dish. To prevent this accident, throw in a 
 pinch of isinglass when you are going to clarify the 
 jelly. It gives a greater substance. This jelly is a 
 monotonous one, but the sagacity of the cook will 
 in some respects alter this character, for he will 
 sometimes give this jelly plain, sometimes with 
 grapes in it, and sometimes put it in a cylinder 
 mould. To garnish the jelly, have some of the 
 same on ice, chop it very fine, and put it sometimes 
 all round, sometimes in the middle, and try by your 
 intelligence to supply the deficiency of variety when- 
 ever you can. This jelly is made in all seasons ; 
 in summer strawberries are excellent in it, and 
 the flavour of the fruit harmonises well with the 
 jelly. 
 WINE JELLY, MADEIRA (another way). 
 
 (See Madeiba Wine Jelly.) 
 
 WINE LOZENGES. 
 
 Steep one ounce of isinglass in water for twelve 
 hours — use very Uttle water for this purpose — then 
 boil in a pint of port or Madeira until evaporated to 
 one-half. Pour into a mould ; when cold cut into 
 lozenges with a large pair of scissors. These 
 lozenges, used in moderation, are highly tonic. 
 
 WINE, MARIGOLD. 
 
 Take twenty-five pounds of good loaf sugar and 
 four pounds of honey, and boil them, with ten gal- 
 lons of soft water and the whites of eight eggs well 
 beaten, one hour, skiifiming it until quite clear, and 
 pour it hot upon three pecks of marigold flowers and 
 four pounds of good raisins stoned and shredded, 
 covering the vessel closely. Next day stir the liquor 
 continually for twenty minutes, and let it remain 
 covered until the following morning. Then strain 
 
 the liquor, and put it into your cask upon the rinds 
 of six Seville oranges pared very thin, and eight 
 ounces of sugar-candy broken small, reserving two 
 gallons, which must be made nearly boiUng hot, 
 then stirred into the rest. Next work it with 
 nearly seven or eight table-spoonfuls of good fresh 
 yeast, cover the bunghole with a tile, and let the 
 wine work over, filling it up every day as the liquor 
 decreases. When the fermentation has ceased, pour 
 in three pints of French brandy and an ounce of 
 dissolved isinglass, and stop it up securely. It will 
 be fine in nine months, and fit for bottUng, but will 
 improve if kept longer. Let it remain for twelve 
 months in bottles well corked and sealed. 
 
 WINE, MULBERRY. 
 
 Gather the mulberries before they are quite ripe, ^ 
 bruise them in a tub, and to every quart of the 
 bruised berries put the same quantity of water. 
 Let the mixture stand for twenty-four hours, and 
 then strain it through a coarse sieve. Having 
 added to every gallon of the diluted juice three or 
 four pounds of sugar, allow it to ferment in the 
 usual way. When fine in the cask, bottle it. 
 
 WINE, MULLED. 
 
 Any kind of wine may be mulled, though port 
 and claret are the most suitable, a!nd are usually 
 preferred for the purpose. Claret needs to be 
 liberally sweetened. The quantity of spice used 
 must be regulated by individual taste, which varies 
 considerably upon questions of this sort. Grated 
 nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, and mace are the spices 
 generally used for mulled wine. To mull the wine 
 take equal quantities of wine and water (or, if 
 preferred, double the quantity of wine to that of 
 water). Boil the spice in the water till the latter 
 is sufficiently flavoured ; strain the liquor, sweeten 
 it, mix the wine with it, and bring it again to the 
 point of boiUng. Serve very hot, with wine bis- 
 cuits or thin strips of dry toast. When equal 
 quantities only of wine and water are used, an 
 egg may be whisked in a bowl, the boiling liquor 
 stirred gradually into it, and then served. The 
 saucepan in which wine is mulled should be deli- 
 cately clean, and used for no other purpose. 
 
 WINE, MULLED, CLARET. 
 
 Take a few cloves, a quarter of an ounce of cinna- 
 mon, the thin peel of half a lemon, two slices of 
 lemon, four ounces of sifted sugar, and one pint of 
 water ; boil for a quarter of an hour in an enamelled 
 saucepan, add a little grated nutmeg or powdered 
 ginger, two bottles of claret, one small glass of 
 brandy or Curagoa ; when nearly boiling, strain. 
 
 WINE, ORANGE. 
 
 Seville oranges are used for this purpose ; they 
 are best in March. Por eighteen gallons of wine half 
 a chest of oranges is required. Pare the rind 
 from about a dozen or two dozen, as more or less of 
 the bitter will be agreeable. Pour over this a quart 
 or two of boiling water, and after letting it stand 
 for twelve hours, strain off the water, which will have 
 extracted much of the essential oil of the oranges. 
 Take the peel off entirely from the remainder of 
 the oranges, squeeze their juice through a bag or 
 sieve, and put it into a cask with about forty-five 
 pounds of white sugar, or fifty-five of the best mxDist 
 sugar. Soak the pulp in water for twenty-four 
 hours, and after straining this add it to the cask. 
 
WIN 
 
 1072 
 
 WIN 
 
 Repeat this several times till the cask is full. Stir 
 the whole well with a stick till the sugar is dissolved, 
 then set it to ferment. The fermentation is slower 
 than with currant wine, but may be heard hissing 
 for some weeks. When this subsides, close the 
 bunghole, and proceed as in the case of gooseberry 
 wine. Some add brandy. This wine requires to be 
 kept in the cask a year before it is bottled. 
 WINE, PEACH (a Canadian recipe). 
 
 Take the stones out of forty-five pounds of ripe 
 peaches, slice the fruit into a clean vessel, and strew 
 over and amongst them ten pounds of loaf sugar 
 broken small ; let them lie covered up until the 
 next day. Boil for half an hour ten gallons of soft- 
 water, with sixteen pounds of loaf sugar and the 
 whites of ten eggs beaten fine, skimming it until 
 clear ; then put to it the fruit and sugar out of the 
 vessel, and boil them to a pulp, taking off the scum 
 as it rises. Put the whole into a tub upon the shells 
 and kernels of the peaches previously broken, stir 
 it well, and when properly cooled stir well amongst it 
 nearly half a pint of good yeast, and leave it to 
 ferment. Stir it well two days at proper inter- 
 vals, then strain the liquor through a fine 
 sieve, and put it in your cask to work over, 
 keeping the vessel always full. Add the thin rinds 
 of six Seville oranges, and half a pint of 
 orange and lemon juice mixed, and when the 
 fermentation has ceased, put in two quarts of 
 brandy, and stop it up for two months. Then rack 
 it off, into a clean vessel, filter the lees, and fill the 
 cask again, adding an ounce of dissolved isinglass 
 and six ounces of sugar-candy. Stop it up securely, 
 and keep it twelve months ; then bottle it, seal 
 the corks, and let it be six months longer before you 
 drink it. "It is a delicious wine, and may be made 
 at a trifling expense. 
 WINE PUNCH. 
 
 Take two lemons, and ra.3p the yellow rind off 
 with half a pound of loaf sugar. Put this with the 
 juice of the lemons into a bowl ; then make scalding 
 hot two bottles of good Rhine wine, adding to it a 
 pint of strong green tea. Pour this over the sugar, 
 and add from halt*a pint to a pint of arrack or 
 fine rum. 
 WINE, RAISIN. 
 
 Procure fresh Smyrna or Malaga raisins ; pick 
 out the stalks and all defective fruit ; chop twenty - 
 eight pounds of these into small bits, and pour upon 
 them three gallons of tolerably hot water, and let 
 them stand to soak for twelve hours. Put the 
 whole into a hair-cloth or clean canvas bag, and 
 with a sufficiently powerful press squeeze out the 
 juice. Put two gallons more of hot water on the 
 marc of raisins ; let this remain also twelve hours, 
 and press out as before. Mix the two liquids to- 
 gether ; but the skins are not to be used. Add to 
 the juice thus obtained three pounds of white 
 sugar, and put the whole into » proper vessel to 
 ferment. Some add an ounce or two of crude 
 tartar, but no yeast, as the raisins contain of them- 
 selves sufficient fermenting principle. This liquor 
 will ferment, and the vessel should be covered with 
 a blanket. When the first fermentation is over, the 
 wine is to be transferred or racked into a clean cask, 
 and suffered to undergo the slow fermentation ; it 
 is next to be kept bunged up for three months, and 
 then racked into another cask. In about twelve 
 
 months it will be fit to bottle. Some add brandy^ 
 after the first fermentation ; but this is not neces- 
 sary. A still richer wine may be made by increasing 
 the quantity of fruit and leaving out the sugar. 
 WINE SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS. 
 
 Make a quarter of a pint of good melted butter, 
 sweeten it, flavour with grated lemon or orange- 
 rind, and 2idd a glassful of wine. Mix thoroughly, 
 and serve very hot. If preferred, brandy or rum 
 may be substituted for the wine. Sufficient for 
 five or six persons. 
 WINE SAUCE, RED. 
 
 This is a "Danish sauce to be eaten with plum 
 pudding. Take a quarter of a pint of cherry- juice 
 and hafi a pint of wine. When the mixture boila 
 put in a good spoonful of flour mixed with a gill 
 of water and two or three spoonfuls of brandy. Just 
 before the sauce reaches the boihng point take it 
 off, and serve immediately. 
 WINE SOUP (a German recipe). 
 
 Take two ounces of butter and melt it in a stew- 
 pan. In this brown two table-spoonfuls of flour, 
 stir into it a pint of water, add three or four ounces 
 of sugar, the rind and juice ,of a lemon, a stick of 
 cinnamon, and a bottle of wine. Simmer ten 
 minutes. Place in a tureen the yolks of six eggs, 
 pour over them slowly the wine soup, and send to 
 table with toasted sippets. 
 WINE SOUPS. 
 
 Wine soups, made of light German wine, are very 
 common throughout Germany. They are very 
 quickly made. Two or three recipes are given. 
 No. 1. Dissolve an ounce of butter in a saucepan, 
 stir into it briskly a tablespoonful of flour, and beat 
 the paste over the fire till it acquires a little colour. 
 Stir into it half a pint of water, and add the thin 
 rind and strained juice of half a fresh lemon, half a 
 stick of cinnamon, three table-spoonfuls of sugar, 
 and a small bottle of light wine. Simmer the 
 soup for ten minutes, break three eggs into the 
 tureen, and froth them lightly. Mix them with a 
 spoonful of the soup. Add the rest gradually, and 
 serve. No. 2. Boil two ounces of best rice and the 
 thin rind of half a lemon in three- quarters of a pint 
 of water. When the rice is tender, mix with it 
 gradually a small bottle of wine, and add as much 
 white sugar as will sweeten it pleasantly. Break 
 two eggs into the tureen, mix with them a spoonful 
 of the soup, and serve. No. 3. Cut a large fresh 
 lemon into thin slices, carefully removing the seeds. 
 Put the lemon into a tureec, cover with powdered 
 white sugar, and add a tea-cupful of grated bread- 
 crumbs which have been browned in butter. Mix a 
 pint of wine with half a pint of water. Sweieten 
 the mixture, and bring it to the point of boiUng. 
 Pour it upon the slices of lemon, etc., let them soak 
 for five minutes, and serve. Send small sponge- 
 cakes to table as an accompaniment. 
 
 WINE SOUP, WITH LEMON (a German recipe). 
 
 Cut two lemons into thin slices, and take out the' 
 seeds. Put the slices in a tureen and cover with 
 powdered sugar. Melt a pie(* of butter in a stew- 
 pan, and throw in a cupful of grated bread to brown. 
 Keep the crumbs shaken or stirred till they are crisp, 
 then strew them over the lemon-slices. Make boiUng 
 hot a quart of wine, with a pint of water and suffi- 
 cient sugar ; pour it over the lemon-slices ; cover 
 
WIN 
 
 1073 
 
 WIN 
 
 closely for a few minutes, and serve with sponge- 
 cakes. 
 
 WINE-SOUR PLUMS, TO PRESERVE, EXCEL- 
 LENT. 
 
 Pick off the stalks, weigh the plums, and take half 
 their weight in loaf sugar pounded. Tear the skin 
 at the seam with a pin, and put the fruit and the 
 sugar, in alternate layers, into a large earthen jar. 
 Cover the jar closely, and put it in the oven in a 
 shallow tin of boiling water. Keep the water boiling 
 under it. When the plums are soft, pour the syrup 
 fiom them ; boil it, pour it over the fruit, and 
 leave them till cold. Do this several times until 
 the skin looks hard and the plums clear. Let them 
 stand a ,Tyeek, then take them up one by one with 
 a spoon and put the^ into jars. Boil the syrup 
 once inore, and pour it over them. If there is not 
 sufficient syrup to cover them, add more to it, 
 made in the proportion of a pound of sugar to a 
 tea-cupful of water. When the plums are cold, 
 place brandied papers upon them, and tie a bladder 
 over, to keep them airtight ; otherwise, they will 
 lose their colour. If stored in a cool dry place, 
 plums thus preserved will keep for years. Time, 
 about ten days. Wine-soura are plums pecuUar 
 to the North of England. 
 
 WINE-SOURS, TO PRESERVE (a more expeditious 
 method). 
 Skin and stone the plums, and boil them till 
 soft. Put- with them three-quarters of their weight 
 in sugar, and stir them continuously till the syrup 
 Avill set when a httle is put upon a plate. Pour the 
 jam into jars, and cover in the usual way. Store in 
 a cool dry place. Time to boil the plums, three- 
 quarters of an hour without sugar ; about a Quarter 
 of an hour with sugar. 
 
 WINE, SPICED, OR BISHOP. 
 
 Make several incisions in the rind of a lemon, stick 
 cloves in the incisions, and roast the lemon by a 
 slow fire. Put small but equal quantities of cinna- 
 mon, cloves, mace, and allspice into a saucepan, with 
 half a pint of water. Let it boil till it is reduced 
 one-half. Boil a bottle of port wine ; bum a portion 
 of the spirit out of it by applying a Ughted paper to 
 the saucepan. Put the roasted lemon and spice 
 into the wine, stir it up well, and let it stand near 
 the fire for ten minutes. Rub a few knobs of 
 sugar on the rind of a lemon, put the sugar into a 
 bowl or jug, with the juice of half a lemon (not 
 roasted), pour the wine into it, grate some nutmeg 
 into it, sweeten to taste, and serve with the lemon 
 and spice floating in it. Oranges may be sometimes 
 used instead of lemons, when the flavour of the 
 latter is preferred to that of the former. 
 
 WINE, STRAWBERRY. 
 
 Bruise and press out the juice. Pour on the 
 marc seven gallons of water ; - infuse for twelve 
 hours, and press out the Uquor ; add this hquor 
 to the juice, and mix them with six gallons of cider. 
 Dissolve in the mixture sixteen pounds of raw 
 sugar and three ounces of powdered red tartar, and 
 then set it to ferment in the usual manner. Pare 
 the rinds of two lemons and two oranges, and, 
 together with the juice, throw them into the 
 fermenting-tub, and take out the rinds when the 
 fermentation is over. Three gallons of brandy 
 may be added. 
 3q 
 
 WINE TEST, DR. PARIS'S. 
 
 " Expose equal parts of sulphur and powdered 
 oyster-shells to a white heat for fifteen minutes, 
 and when cold add an equal quantity of cream of 
 tartar. These are to be put into a strong bottle 
 with common water to boil for an hour, and the 
 solution is afterwards to be decanted into ounce 
 phials, adding twenty drops of muriatic acid to 
 each. This Uquid will precipitate the least quantity 
 of lead from wines in a very sensible black precipi- 
 tate. As iron might be accidentally contained in 
 the wine, the muriatic acid is added to prevent its 
 precipitation." 
 
 WINE VINEGAR. 
 
 Wine vinegar is properly the vinegar of genuine 
 foreign wines, methodically prepared as in Germany, 
 France, and Italy, and does not include- those made 
 from cider, malt- wines, or made wines of any 
 description whatever. All wines, especially those 
 of a weak kind, either spontaneously, or by repeated 
 fermentations, may be converted into a kind of 
 vinegar. 
 
 WINE WHEY, WHITE. 
 
 Take half a pint of new milk and dilute it with an 
 equal quantity of hot water ; boil both together, and 
 while boiling pour in at the moment two wine-glass- 
 fuls of white wine. A curd will form, which, after 
 the mixture is boiled for two or three minutes, will 
 settle at the bottom of the saucepan. Strain the 
 whey carefully from the curd ; it should be per- 
 fectly clear. Sugar may be added to please the 
 taste. " Warm white- wine whey promotes perspira- 
 tion, and hence it is useful in the commencement 
 of some complaints ; but taken cold it has a different 
 effect, and often in oases of low fever it is an excellent 
 beverage ; also in the early stages of convalescence 
 it is as safe and sufficient a stimulant as can be 
 given." 
 WINES, ALCOHOL IN. 
 
 The quantity of alcohol existing in different wines 
 may be seen fr6m the following table drawn up by 
 Mr. Brande : — 
 
 ames of file Wines, Malt and Spiritnous Lip 
 
 ors, and the 
 
 propoHim of Alcohol (specific gravity 0.825) in one limidred 
 
 parts of these liquids by measure. 
 
 
 Lissa (average). 
 
 25.41 
 
 Marsala (average) 
 
 25.09 
 
 Port (average .... 
 
 23.39 
 
 Madeira and Bed or Burgundy 
 
 1 22.27 
 
 Madeira (average) 
 
 Xeres or Sherry (average) 
 
 19.17 
 
 Teneriffe ..... 
 
 19.79 
 
 Lachryma Christi 
 
 19.70 
 
 Constantia (white) . 
 
 19.75 
 
 do. (red) .... 
 
 18.92 
 
 Lisbon ..... 
 
 18.94 
 
 Cape Muscat .... 
 
 18.2S 
 
 Rousillon (average) . 
 
 18.13 
 
 Malaga ..... 
 
 17.26 
 
 Hermitage (white) . 
 
 17.43 
 
 Malmsey Madeira 
 
 16.40 
 
 Lunel ..... 
 
 15.52 
 
 Bordeaux Wine or Claret (average) 
 
 15.10 
 
 Sauteme ..... 
 
 14.22 
 
 Burgundy (average) . 
 
 14.57 
 
 Nice 
 
 14.63 
 
 Champagne (still) 
 
 13.80 
 
 do (sparkling) 
 
 12.61 
 
WIN 
 
 1074 
 
 WIN 
 
 Navies of the WiTies, Malt and Spirituous Liquors, and the 
 proportion of Alcohol {specific gravity 0.825) in one hundred 
 parts of these liquids by measure, — Contimted. 
 
 Bed Hermitage 
 Vin de Grave . 
 
 . 12.32 
 . 13.37 
 
 Frontignao 
 Cote Rote 
 
 . 12.89 
 . 12.32 
 
 Khenish Wine (averj 
 Tokay 
 
 Gooseberry Wine 
 CSder (highest averaj 
 do. (lowest averaj 
 Mead 
 
 ige) . . . 12.08 
 
 . 9.88 
 
 . 11.84 
 
 ;e . . . 9.87' 
 
 ) . . . 5.21 
 
 . 7.32 
 
 Ale (average) . 
 Brown Stout . 
 
 . 6.87 
 . 6.80 
 
 Porter (average) 
 Small Beer 
 
 . 4.20 
 . 1.28 
 
 Brandy . 
 Rum 
 
 . 53.39 
 . 53.68 
 
 Gin 
 
 . 51.60 
 
 Whiskey . 
 
 . 54.32 
 
 The action of wines upon the animal economy 
 depends principally upon the quantity of alcohol 
 they contain. However, a certain given quantity 
 of wine does not act in the same way as a mixture 
 of alcohol and water in the same proportions ; and 
 certain wines yielding on distillation very nearly the 
 same proportion of alcohol do not inebriate with 
 the same facility. This difference must be ascribed 
 to the various kinds of combinations in which 
 alcohol exists in these complex products. 
 
 WINES, ANALYSIS OF. 
 
 The following remarks on this subject are drawn 
 from the admirable South Kensington Museum 
 Handbook on "Food," by Professor Church. 
 " When the sugary juice of any fruit is left to itself 
 for a time at a moderately warm temperature, the 
 change known as fermentation occurs. This fer- 
 mentation is generally brought about by the growth 
 of a. low form of vegetable life — an organised ler- 
 ment. It consists of a splitting up of the sugar 
 present in the liquid (or at least of a large part of 
 it) into alcohol, which remains in the liquid, and 
 carbonic acid gas, which escapes more or less com- 
 pletely. 
 
 " Although the fermented juice of all fruit-s may 
 be regarded as wine, yet the term is generally 
 limited to the alcoholic liquor prepared from the 
 grape. But we have in England at least two 
 familiar native wines — perry or pear wine, and cider 
 or apple wine. Other so-called British wines are 
 usually made-up or compound liquors, into which 
 a large quantity of cane or beet sugar has been 
 introduced. They cannot be regarded as true 
 wines, nor are they generally wholesome. 
 . " The analysis of grapes shows us that the chief 
 ingredient in their juice is glucose, a kind of sugar. 
 There is also some albuminoid matter and a little 
 tartaric acid, chiefly in combination with potash ; 
 other minor ingredients also exist in grape-juice. 
 The seeds of the grape contain the astringent sub- 
 stance, tannin, with some bitter principles, while 
 in the skins not only does colouring matter exist, 
 but also some flavouring matters and tannin. From 
 these facts it will be clearly seen that very different 
 qualities of wine may be made from the same quality 
 of grape, according to the method of operating 
 upon the fniit. The coIoi]r,'the<bouquet, or volatile 
 
 flavour, the astringency, etc., of a wine may thus be 
 varied according to the admission or exclusion of 
 the characteristic ingredients of the skins and stones 
 of the grapes. 
 
 " The main difference between grape-juice and 
 grape-wine is the substitution of the sugar in the 
 former by the alcohol which is characteristic of 
 the latter. But other changes occur in the fer- 
 mentation and ripening of wine. Much of the acid 
 tartrate of potash is deposited from the liquid on 
 being kept, this deposit being called argol. Argol 
 consists chiefly of the above-mentioned tartrate, 
 but with it a Uttle colouring matter and some tar 
 trate of Ume are always found. In the stronger but 
 natural white wines small floating crystals of cream 
 of tartar often occur ; they are nearly pure acid 
 tartrate of potash. A small quantity of free acetic 
 acid is found in wines. When they become sour 
 it is this acid to which the sourness is due ; it is 
 formed by the oxidation of some of the alcohol 
 present, a change which occurs more readily in 
 weak natural wines than in those which contain 
 much alcohol. Another important characteristic 
 of wines is the presence in small quantity of certain 
 compounds called ethers. They are usually fragrant, 
 oily liquids, of which traces are present in all wines. 
 These ethers are compounds formed by the union 
 of the ordinary alcohol or spirit of wine with some 
 of the acids which are contained in the fermented 
 liquor — at least, this is usually the case. Much, 
 then, of the flavour and perfume of a wine is due to 
 these ethers, some of which existed, ready-formed, 
 in the grape itself, while others were slowly formed 
 in keeping the fermented liquor. Different varieties 
 of grape yield differently-flavoured wines, but the 
 alcoholic strength of a wine depends mainly upon 
 the proportion of sugar in the grapes, and in the 
 degree of completion to which the process of 
 fermentation is carried. The same kind of grape 
 gives a very different wine as to flavour and alco- 
 holic strength in accordance with the climate in 
 which it is grown, the season, and the soil. 
 
 " The quantity of true or absolute alcohol in 
 natural wines varies from 7 per cent, in some hocks, 
 clarets, and other light wines, to 13 per cent, in 
 many Greek and Hungarian vintages. When the 
 quantity of absolute alcohol exceeds 13 or 131 per 
 cent., it may usually be con.sidered that the wine 
 has received an addition of distilled spirit, or been 
 fortifled. Wines of delicate flavour will not bear 
 fortifying, the alcohol added being usually derived 
 from the fermentation of artificially-prepared grape 
 sugar, and containing the coarsely-flavoured alcohol 
 known as fusil oil. A fortified wine may contain a 
 good deal of sugar, for the addition of spirit to a 
 fermenting liquid checks, more or '«"»» completely, 
 the further change of the sugar. 
 
 " Wines not exceeding 30° of proof spirit pay on 
 importation a duty of Is. 3d. a gallon ; those over 
 30° and under 42° pay 38. Large and increasing 
 quantities of natural wines now come into this 
 country. Even of Spanish wines so imported about 
 one-half are of natural strength, while the average 
 of all Spanish wines does not show much over 28 per 
 cent, of proof-spirit — rather less than 14 per cent, 
 of absolute alcohol. 
 
 " The following table shows the quantities of 
 alcohol, of fixed acids — calculated as tartaric acid — 
 of acetic acid, of sugar, of ethers, and of mineral 
 
WIN 
 
 1075 
 
 WIN 
 
 matter or ash, contained in fair aveiage samples of 
 eight different kinds of wines commonly consumed 
 in Europe. One imperial pint of each of the 
 following wines contains about : — 
 
 Kame of Wine. 
 
 Alcobol 
 (atoaolute). 
 
 IP 
 
 IS 
 
 Sugar. 
 
 ! 
 
 n 
 
 Hock . . 
 
 oz. 
 
 1 
 
 ST. 
 
 219 
 
 er. 
 
 39 
 
 gr. 
 
 18 
 
 oz. gr. 
 none 
 
 gr. 
 4 
 
 gr. 
 16 
 
 Claret . . 
 
 1 
 
 306 
 
 31 
 
 18 
 
 9 
 
 6 
 
 18 
 
 Champagne . 
 
 1 
 
 343 
 
 20 
 
 10 
 
 1 120 
 
 5 
 
 20 
 
 Burgundy . 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 
 24 
 
 17 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 18 
 
 Carlowitz . 
 
 2 
 
 35 
 
 36 
 
 19 
 
 none 
 
 5 
 
 16 
 
 Sherry . . 
 
 3 
 
 147 
 
 24 
 
 12 
 
 236 
 
 4 
 
 38 
 
 Madeira 
 
 3 
 
 218 
 
 26 
 
 18 
 
 175 
 
 5 
 
 33 
 
 Port . . 
 
 3 
 
 218 
 
 23 
 
 12 
 
 359 
 
 6 
 
 20 
 
 " The different wines made in this country from 
 rhubarb stalks, gooseberries, currants, cowslips, 
 elderberries, oranges, etc., contain oxahc, mafic, 
 and other acids, besides the tartaric acid, which is 
 the chief acid of the grape. Now these acids are 
 not thrown out of the liquor after fermentation, as 
 is the case to a great extent with the wine from 
 grapes. Thus sugar has to be added to mask the 
 acidity of these liqueurs, and in consequence they 
 are not so wholesome as the natural imported wines. 
 But it must not be supposed that grapes are entirely 
 free from all acids save tartaric, or that the analyses 
 as above given represent every constituent of the 
 wines we have included in the table. 
 
 " The ethers of wines previously alluded to in- 
 clude a number of compounds not yet completely 
 analysed or understood. Some of them, however, 
 have been examined pretty fully, and even exactly 
 imitated by chemical means. (Enanthate, buty- 
 rate, and acetate of ethyl are the names given to 
 some of the best known of these ethers. These 
 ethers enter into the composition of the artificial 
 * oil of cognac ' and various flavouring essences." 
 
 WINES, BOTTLING OF. 
 
 Botthng can never be looked on as an unimpor- 
 tant matter, seeing that iipon the process depend in 
 a great measure many of the finest qualities of 
 different wines. As a general rule, fine and dehoate 
 wines never attain to their full perfection till they 
 have been some time in bottle. There are many 
 conditions essential to a satisfactory performance 
 of the operation, such as the state of the wine, the 
 atmosphere, and the materials employed in the 
 process. The state of the wine should be such as 
 would prevent any further advantages accruing 
 from its retention in the wood. This point varies 
 much even in the same wine — that is, in wine made 
 from the same plants grown upon the same ground, 
 but of different crops (because the grapes of one 
 year's crops may be more matured than those of 
 another), and even in the same crap, when the 
 wine has been placed in different utensils and sub- 
 jected to shght changes of temperature. To ascer- 
 tain the point, the palate of a skilled " taster " is 
 usually the surest guide. Wine should never be 
 bottled till it is still, clear, and translucent. The 
 least negligence in these respects may seriously 
 compromise its condition after bottling. lYom 
 what has just been said, it will be seen that it is 
 impossible to fix a determinate date at which 
 
 particular wines ought to be bottled. In any case, 
 it should not be delayed until the wine begins to 
 deteriorate, nor hurried on before it has acquired 
 a suitable maturity. The atmospheric conditions 
 most favourable to the process of bottling are 
 those in which the wine is most tranquil. Autumn 
 and winter, up to the end of March, when the 
 weather is still cold — ^neither damp, overbright, nor 
 thundery — are the best times, for the reasons which 
 render these seasons most suitable to " racking." 
 As regards material, great circumspection should 
 be observed in the choice of bottles and of the corks 
 to be used with them. However good the bottles 
 themselves may be, it is indispensable that they 
 should be washed, inside and out, with scrupulous 
 care, so that they may be free from the least spot 
 or stain of any foreign substance, and from sus- 
 picion of imparting even the slightest colour or 
 taste to the water in which they are washed. The 
 practice of using leaden small-shot in washing 
 bottles, to detach the harder portions of fur and 
 crust, is highly prejudicial, and should be forbidden 
 in every case. The shot-corns often get wedged 
 between the sides of the bottle and its convex 
 bottom so firmly as to defy all efforts to dislodge 
 them. Coming in contact with the wine, they dis- 
 solve more or less completely, and communicate 
 to the latter poisonous properties, due not only to 
 the formation of salts of lead, but to the arsenic 
 which enters into the composition of small shot. For 
 cleansing purposes, therefore, metallic chains with 
 small joints are greatly to be preferred, though, after 
 all, washing with suitable brushes is the best 
 method, and various small macliines exist which 
 execute the operation very satisfactorily. The 
 bottles should be allowed tp drain thoroughly before 
 the wine is put in, for which purpose they should 
 be made to stand bottom upwards for a sufficient 
 time, the necks being inserted in orifices placed for 
 the purpose on tables or shelves. Corks should 
 invariably be used as stoppers. It is very essential 
 that they should be of good quality, fine, even in 
 texture, and elastic, and, in the case of new corks, 
 that they should be properly cut, and free ^om 
 defects. After b^ttUng, it is verjf desirable that 
 the wine should stand for some time, to get the 
 full benefit of the operation — generally speaking, for 
 twelve months at least. During this period the 
 bottle should be kept in a suitable storehouse, in 
 such a position that the wine may cover the corks, 
 and should on no account be moved. Ordinary 
 wines containing a small portion of alcohol are apt 
 to fur if these precautions are unheeded. Should 
 the wine deposit any sediment after bottling (which 
 it generally does), it will of course form on the 
 under side, and care must be taken in moving the 
 wine to prevent any admixture of the sediment 
 therewith. 
 
 WINES, CHOICE OF. 
 
 The choice of wines, in laying in a stock, is a 
 matter of considerable difficulty, particularly to 
 the inexperienced. A habit of tasting the superior 
 wines will alone give the palate the power of dis- 
 criminating minute differences in the aroma and 
 bouquet of the choice kinds. But a very correct 
 taste in wine is a rare quality ; and there is some- 
 times a good deal of pretension in passing a judg- 
 ment upon them. The particular impression on 
 
WIN 
 
 1076 
 
 WIN 
 
 the sense of taste is also liable to be affected by 
 the state of bodily health at the time, or by the last 
 Substance taken into the mouth. Thus, wine after 
 sweetmeats and fruits frequently tastes harsh ; 
 whereas after made dishes and cheese wines some- 
 times appear better than they really are. The first 
 object to be considered, next to the taste, from 
 which the purchaser must judge for himself, is 
 whether the wine is pure and the genuine pro- 
 duction of the country whose name it bears ; and 
 whether or not it is adulterated with any foreign 
 substance. To distinguish this accurately, in many 
 cases, requires great experience and a very nice 
 palate. It is even said that few persons, except 
 the manufacturers themselves, are judges sufficiently 
 experienced to distinguish and appreciate the 
 different growths of their own territory ; and that 
 even these canjiot estimate properly the wines of 
 another district. Another kind of ability necessary 
 is to be able to distinguish the condition of the 
 wine ; whether it is new, and whether it will keep 
 or will be liable to change. Some wines may appear 
 good that will not keep a year ; and others that at 
 first appear indifferent, will improve so much by 
 keeping as to be in the end excellent. Good wine is 
 most frequently to be found among capitalists, who 
 can afford to buy large quantities in favourable 
 years, and who can select in their stock that which 
 is fittest for botthng at any particular time, not 
 sending out any but what is fit for use, and who 
 have a reputation to keep up. It is scarcely neces- 
 sary to add that there are few articles of domestic 
 consumption in which there are more frauds prac- 
 tised than in wine, or in which more money may 
 be thrown away for want of good management ; to 
 say nothing of the pleasure it affords everyone to 
 place good wine before his guests, or the danger of 
 injuring their healths by offering them what is 
 prejudicial. 
 
 WINES, DISEASES OF. 
 
 By " diseases of wines " we must understand 
 those conditions in which wines have become so 
 altered and unfitted for use as to have lost their 
 distinct character. The chief diseases are as 
 follows : — t 
 
 1. The Turning of Wine. — This is a disease 
 which attacks young wine, and seems to occur under 
 Special conditions of the weather. The colour 
 grows darker, and the taste first disappears, and 
 if the disease continues becomes disagreeable ; the 
 wine becomes turbid and acid. This disease arises 
 from a decomposition of tartar. 
 
 2. The Eofiness of Wine. — This disease consists 
 in the formation of vegetable mucus from the sugar 
 of the wine, and is known as mucous fermentation. 
 The wines liable to this change are those which are 
 deficient in tannic acid. 
 
 3. The Bitterness of Wine. — In this we have a 
 disease to which Burgundy wines are specially 
 liable. It appears to arise from a second fermenta- 
 tion, inasmuch as a large quantity of carbonic acid 
 is evolved. It has been ascribed by some to the 
 formation of citric ether, which is very bitter. The 
 disease is caused by the sediment, and is often put 
 a stop to by drawing the wine off into other casks. 
 
 4. The Acidifying of Wine. — This depends upon 
 the conversion of the alcohol into acetic acid, and 
 may be nipped in the bud by adding alkaline 
 
 carbonates ; which, however, destroy the colour 
 and affect the taste of the wine. 
 
 5. The Movldiness of Wine. — In this disease 
 mould-plants are produced on the surface of the 
 wine. How and under what condition the mould 
 is formed is uncertain ; all that is known is that the 
 admission of air is favourable to the disease. 
 WINES, EFFERVESCING. 
 
 If wines are bottled before the fermentation is 
 over, the carbonic acid is retained in the wine, and 
 what is called an " effervescing " wine is produced. 
 Certain kinds of wine are more favourable than 
 others to this process ; and in all countries effer- 
 vescing wines are produced. In this country we 
 are most familiar with the effervescing wines of 
 France, which are generally known under the name 
 of champagne. Hocks, Moselles, and even red 
 wines are treated thus ; and, on the cork being 
 removed from the bottle, the carbonic acid begins 
 to escape, and gives them their sparkling efferves- 
 cent character. When such wines contain much , 
 sugar, the fermentation in the bottle is arrested 
 before all the sugar is consumed, and they are sweet 
 effervescing wines. In other cases the sugar is all 
 exhausted in producing the carbonic acid, and such 
 wines are then said to be dry. Sparkling or effer- . 
 vescing wines are agreeable to the palate, and in 
 the same way as bottled ales they sometimes appear 
 to assist the digestion of the food with which they 
 are taken. In some cases, however, there can be 
 no doubt that they produce injury. When new, 
 they communicate the state of change in which they 
 are to the contents of the stomach, and interfere 
 with the Jiealthy process of digestion. They are 
 less liable to disagree when they are dry and 
 contain but Uttle sugar than when they hold 
 much of this substance. The quantity of sugar 
 varies in champagne from one hundred grains in 
 the pint to considerably above an ounce. 
 WINES, HOME-MADE. 
 
 Home-made wines differ chiefly from foreign or 
 grape wines in containing a much greater quantity 
 of mahc acid, whilst the wine of the grape contains 
 chiefly tartareous ; for it is the presence of super- 
 tartrate of potash ~ by which the grape is most 
 strongly distinguished from all the othra* sub-acid 
 fruits applied to the purposes of wine-making. This 
 salt is most abundant in the grape before ripening, 
 and a portion of it disappears during this process. 
 A consideration of this diversity led Dr. MaccuUoch. 
 to point out to the pubUc the useful practice of 
 introducing super-tartrate of potash into all those 
 juices of fruits which are intended for the basis of 
 home-made wines. This salt is doubtless decom- 
 posed during the fermentative processes, and a con- 
 siderable quantity of what remains is subsequently 
 deposited in the casks or bottles in which the wine is 
 kept, constituting what is termed the crust of the 
 wine. Few of our home-made wines possess an 
 intense colour ; with the exception of the elderberry, 
 mulberry, and the black cherry, scarcely any colour 
 is contained in our domestic fruits. The colouring 
 of home-made wines may be effected by bilberries, 
 mulberries, or the husk of elderberries ; these sub- 
 stances impart a fine red colour to vinous fluids ; 
 they are sometimes suffered to ferment with the 
 rmist, to render the colour more intense. The prac- 
 tice of making wines from the produce of our gardens 
 
WIN 
 
 1077 
 
 .WIN 
 
 IS deserving of very general attention. Foreign 
 wines are entirely beyond the reach of the poor ; 
 and, therefore, the benevolent will endeavour to 
 supply them, in age and sickness, with the best 
 substitutes which our native fruits will afiord. 
 
 The following domestic fruits are well adapted 
 for the fabrication of wine : — The gooseberry, elder- 
 berry, mulberry, raspberry, blackberry, strawberry, 
 red currant, black currant, white currant, and 
 cranberry. These ferments will afford good aiid 
 wholesome wines. It is a vulgar prejudice to 
 suppose that the wines made from our domestic 
 fruits are unwholesome. They may disagree with 
 the constitutions of some persons, but no fact can 
 warrant the assertion that they are more injurious 
 than wines made from the grape. The pulpy fruits 
 of our gardens, such as the peach, nectarine, plum, 
 , cherry, damson, and apricot, may also be employed ; 
 but, upon the whole, they answer not so weU for 
 the fabrication of wines as the domestic sub-acid 
 esculent berries. 
 
 The gooseberry and currant are, of all other 
 fruits, most commonly employed in the fabrication 
 of home-made wines ; and, on the whole, they are 
 best adapted for the purpose. When used in their 
 green state, both gooseberry and currant may be 
 made to form Ught brisk wines, falUng little short 
 of champagne. 
 
 Ripe gooseberries are capable of making sweet 
 or dky wines ; but these are commonly ill-flavoured, 
 particularly if the husk has not been carefully 
 excluded. 
 
 Ripe currants, if properly managed, make much 
 better wines than gooseberries. These fruits are 
 .'much improved, according to Dr. Macculloch, by 
 boiUng previously to fermentation. This, he states, 
 is particularly the case with the black currant, 
 which, when thus managed, is capable of making a 
 wine closely _resembling some of the best of the 
 sweet Cape wines. 
 
 The strawberry and raspberry are capable of 
 making both dry and sweet wines of agreeable 
 quality. 
 
 The elderberry is capable of making an excellent 
 red wine. Its cheapness also recommends it. It 
 does not, indeed, possess any great degree of flavour, 
 but it possesses no bad one, which is a negative 
 virtue often of great importance in artificial wine- 
 iuaking. 
 
 The cherry produces a wine of no very pecuUar 
 character. If used, care should be taken not to 
 bruise too many of the stones, otherwise a dis- 
 greeable bitter taste will be imparted to the wine. 
 
 The blackberry and mulberry are capable of 
 waking coloured wines, if managed with that view : 
 they are deficient, however, in the astringent 
 principle ; nevertheless, they may be occasionally 
 employed with advantage when a particular object 
 is to be gained. 
 
 The sloe and damson are so associated in qualities 
 that nearly the same results are obtained from both. 
 Their juice is acid and astringent, and hence they 
 are qualified only for making cbry wines. By a due 
 admixture of currants or elderberries with sloes or 
 damsons, wines not unlike the inferior kinds of port 
 are often produced. 
 
 Grapes, of British growth, are capable of making 
 excellent sparkling and other wines by the addition 
 of sugar. The grapes may be used in any state 
 
 however immature ; When even but half-grown 
 and quite hard they succeed perfectly. 
 
 Raisins are extensively used in this country for 
 making domestic wines ; therefore they deserve to 
 be mentioned here. When properly managed, they 
 are capable of making a pure and flavourless villous 
 fluid, well adapted for receiving any flavour which 
 may be required, and thus of imitating many wines 
 of foreign growth. 
 
 The orange and lemon are likewise used for 
 making domestic wines. Upon the whole, however, 
 they are not very -well adapted for the purpose, as 
 they contain too little acid a'nd too httle of the 
 extractive or fermentative juice. 
 
 The quince, from its analogyto the apple and 
 pear, is better qualifled for making a species of 
 cider than wine. 
 
 The following is the art of making wine from 
 native fruits. We start upon the grounds that 
 home-made wines are intended to be imitations of 
 foreign wines. In the first place, therefore, we 
 have to prepare a juice or mvM similar to the juice 
 or must of the grape in its general composition. 
 Now, no fruit whatever yields a juice precisely 
 similar to that of the grape. In our nbrthem 
 chmate, more especially, the saccharine principle 
 which is the fundamental basis in wine-making, 
 exists in very minute proportion in most fruits. It 
 must be, therefore, supplied artificially. The 
 tartaric acid, or rather super-tartrate of potash, 
 which is another,essential principle in wine-making, 
 is likewise wanting in most of our fruits. This, 
 therefore, must be suppUed. On the contrary, 
 other substances, and particularly malic acid, 
 exist in too large a proportion in most of our fruits, 
 which, in their natural state, are thus better 
 adapted for making cider than wine. To get rid 
 of the mahc acid, and to prevent its deteriorating 
 effects, as well as the deteriorating effects of other 
 foreign principles, is difficult, or perhaps impossible ; 
 and this will doubtless always render home-made 
 wines inferior to those of the grape, though very 
 near approaches may be made by judicious manage- 
 ment. 
 
 The practical mode of obviating these difficulties 
 is to dilute the juice of the fruit to such a degree 
 that a given quantity of it shall contain no more of 
 the malic acid, for example, than a given quantity 
 of the juice of the grape ; and, as before observed, to 
 supply artificially the two grand principles, sugar 
 and super-tartrate of potash, which are wanting. 
 Having thus prepared an artificial must as nearly 
 resembhng in its composition that of the grapes^as 
 possible, the application of the other principles 
 will be obvious, as we have nothing to do but to 
 manage, in general, all the subsequent processes 
 precisely as if we were operating upon the must 
 of the grape. 
 
 In manufacturing wine from grapes different 
 methods are pursued according to the kinds of 
 wine which it is intended to make. Now the same 
 thing holds good in manufacturing home-made 
 wines ; it is absolutely necessary that the maker 
 should determine beforehand upon the kind of wine 
 which it is his object to produce, and to modify his 
 processes accordingly. We may, with Dr. Mac- 
 culloch, consider wines as of four general descrip- 
 tions : sweet wines ; sparUing or effervescing wines ; 
 dry and light wines, analogous to hock and Rhenish, 
 
WIN 
 
 1078 
 
 WIN 
 
 in which the saccharine principle is entirely decom- 
 posed during fermentation ; and lastly, dry and 
 etroTig wines, as Madeira and sherry. 
 
 Those of the first and most simple class are the 
 sweet wines, or those in which the fermentative 
 process has been incomplete. It is to this class that 
 by far the greater number of our home-made wines 
 bear the greatest resemblance ; a resemblance, says 
 Dr. Macculloch, so general, as to show that few 
 makers of this article possess sufficient knowledge 
 of the art to enable them to steer clear of what may 
 be firmly called a radical defect of domestic wines ; 
 ' for so large a quantity of sugar is often added in 
 proportion to the juice of the fruits, that the 
 quantity of natural leaven, or fermentative matter, 
 in the compound, is insufficient for the conversion 
 of the sugar into wine ; hence that part of it which 
 remains undecomposed is sweet. The use of the 
 artificial leaven, yeast, may in some measure correct 
 this defect, but the quantity added is generally 
 inadequate to this object. 
 
 " The addition of brandy," says Dr. MaccuUoch, 
 " so often recommended in the recipes for making 
 fruit wines, so far from checking tl^6 wine from 
 becoming sour, increases it ; and therefore the 
 use of brandy as a preservative of wine is 
 lounded on error." 
 
 Dr. Macculloch recommends a certain proportion 
 of crude tartar ; the dose of which may vary from 
 one to six per cent, without materially affecting the 
 wine, as a great proportion of what escapes decom- 
 position will be subsequently deposited. All fruits, 
 except the grape, will require more or less of this 
 salt. 
 
 .In the manufacture of home-made wines, care 
 therefore should be taken not to use too small a 
 proportion of fruit compared with the sugar em- 
 ployed ; for it is tliis circumstance chiefly which 
 renders the fermentative process incomplete, and 
 thus imparts that sweet and mawkish taste to our 
 domestic wines which renders them intolerable to 
 many people, and even perhaps to all, without the 
 addition of brandy. The strength of the wine is 
 always proportional to the quantity of sugar em- 
 ployed, provided that sugar has been completely 
 decomposed ; the most saccharine juices, there- 
 fore, afford the strongest wine ; or, in the practice 
 which is necessary in making wine from native 
 fruits, that fluid will produce the strongest wine to 
 which the greatest quantity of sugar has been 
 added previous to fermentation, care being 
 always taken to increase the quantity of leaven 
 in such a ratio as to ensure the complete decom- 
 position of the sugar, without which the produce 
 gains in sweetnels only without acquiring additional 
 strength. But even with this precaution there is a 
 limit to the quantity of sugar that can be employed, 
 and this limit is obviously the proportion of water 
 which is required to ensiu-e the fermenting process. 
 The fermentation must continue the longer if it 
 is desired that the produce shall be a dry wine, and 
 for a less time if it is wished to produce a sweet wine. 
 But if, on the contrary, it is the wish of the operator 
 to preserve the flavour or boiiquet of the wine, it is 
 necessary that the period of the fermentation should 
 be shortened. The case will be precisely the same 
 if it is an object to have a brisk wine, as the carbonic 
 acid, on which this quality exclusively depends. 
 
 will be dissipated irrecoverably by an undue 
 protraction of the fermenting process. 
 
 WINES, KEEPING OF. 
 
 Wine is put into bottles for the sake of keeping 
 it, and the placing these bottles in some safe and 
 convenient place called a cellar is technically termed 
 cellaring. Some wines are not much improved by 
 bottling at all, and these one may drink direct from 
 the cask. In wine countries it is common to 
 drink the wine directly from the cask as we do 
 beer. This is more especially done with the weaker 
 and cheaper wines, and wine is frequently thus 
 consumed in this country. " Wine from the wood 
 is sold in some of our wine shops. Inferior red wines, 
 sherries, and Marsala, are said to improve more 
 whilst on tap in the cask than when bottled. Weak 
 wines cannot be kept long in the cask without a 
 danger of the oxygen of the air converting their 
 hydrated oxide of ethyl (alcohol) into the hydrated 
 tri-oxide of acetyl (vinegar), which is a result very 
 much to be avoided by those who attach importance 
 to the flavour or strength of their wines. Wine in 
 casks gets altered by the evaporation of the water 
 and the alcohol into the air, and also by the absorp- 
 tion of one or the other by the wood. These 
 changes cannot happen when the wine is put into 
 glass bottles. Wine can thus be kept longer in 
 bottles without change than in wood. There is a 
 notion that wine gets stronger by keeping, but this 
 is erroneous. If fermentation goes on, a fittle more 
 sugar will be converted into alcohol, but this is not 
 large, even in the case of effervescing wines. It is, 
 therefore, a false notion that wine gets stronger by 
 keeping. Strong wines undoubtedly keep best. 
 Wines get altered by keeping, and they get weaker 
 by keeping. They should not be kept in hot cellars, 
 nor cold cellars, nor cellars with a changeable 
 temperature. It appears that a uniform tempera- 
 ture of between 50° and 60° is the best for all kinds 
 of wine. Wines are said to ripen sooner in warm 
 cellars than in cold ones, and it is very certain that 
 new wines may be made to assume the flavour of 
 old ones by exposing them to high temperatures, 
 and letting them cool again. This, however, belongs 
 to the art of doctoring." 
 
 The art of preserving wines is to prevent them 
 from fretting, which is done by keeping them in 
 the same degree of heat and careful working in a 
 cellar where they will not be agitated by the motion 
 of carriages passing. If persons wish to preserve the 
 fine flavour of their wines, they ought on no account 
 to permit any bacon, cheese, onions, pork, or cider 
 in the wine cellars ; for if there be any disagreeable 
 odour in the cellar, the wine will indubitably imbibe 
 it ; consequently, instead of being fragrant and 
 charming to the nose and palate, it will be extremely 
 
 WINES, ORDER OF SERVING. 
 
 It may be put down as a general rule with regard 
 to the serving of wines at dinner that the milder 
 wines should come first and the stronger wines 
 later. Sherry may be served with the hors d' oeuvres 
 and soups, but when turtle soup is on the menu 
 Madeira or milk punch should be offered. With 
 oysters, Chabhs or Sauteme should be served ; and 
 with fish. Graves, still bocks, and Moselles. With 
 the entries good Burgundies, such as Gorton, Clos- 
 Vougeot, and Pomard, or clarets, such as St. Julien 
 
WIN 
 
 1079 
 
 WIN 
 
 or St. Estephe, are appropriate. With the roasts 
 the champagne may make its appearance, and will 
 hold its ground until the dessert is put upon the 
 table, when port. Chateau Yquem, Muscat, Tokay, 
 and other sweet wines will be required. The 
 custom has arisen of late years to drink champagne 
 right through the dinner, but this is not to be 
 commended, as it does not blend agreeably with 
 every dish, and it is of too gaseous and heady a 
 nature to be drunk freely. 
 
 WINES, TASTING OF. 
 
 On this important subject we quote Mr. P. 
 Dagouret, who is an acknowledged authority on the 
 judging and tasting of wines :^Iu the judging of 
 wines three senses are employed — sight, smell, and 
 taste. (1) Sight. — To the eye wine ought to bo 
 always perfectly clear ; thick wine is not good, it 
 is not in good order, or soon will be bad, or the 
 bottle has been shaken ; therefore the deposit which 
 has cleaiied the wine becomes mixed and thickens 
 the wine and takes away its taste. White wines 
 ought always to have an amber colour, but always 
 quite clear. Red wines vary in colour from brick 
 red or " pelure d'oignon " to bright red or dark 
 red, but the colour ought always to be good and 
 perfectly transparent. To try the transparency of 
 wine, incline the glass, but do not use a silver cup, 
 as some do. 
 
 (2) Smell. — In all temperatures wines exhale 
 Bubtle gases, which take effect on the membranes of 
 the nose. These aromas emanat&from the alcohols 
 and principally from the ethers. New wines gener- 
 ally only emit a fruity odour, which is attenuated 
 by age, gets finer, and is transformed into the 
 " bouquet." The aromas are different according 
 to the vintage ; it depends on their purity or 
 inten.sity for tasters or experts to be able to tell 
 their origin, their quality, and their age. 
 
 (3) Taste. — The whole of the mouth is employed 
 in this faculty, but the tongue is the principal 
 function used, as it has innumerable cavities, at 
 the end of which are quantities of nervous ramifica- 
 tions named " papillae." Many of them only have one 
 sense, others can take in several senses, as contact, 
 temperature, and taste. The " papillse " are divided 
 into three categories, the large ones at the base 
 of the tongue, in two oblique lines in the form of a 
 V, the roimded middle ones placed on the back of 
 the tongue, and the numberless conical small ones 
 placed in series also on the back of the tongue. The 
 nerves that terminate in these " papillae" are at the 
 base, the " glosso pharyngien," the nerve par 
 excellence of taste, at the end the Ungual, the 
 nerve most susceptible of touch, the susceptibility 
 of this organ taking in heat. Astringency is 
 therefore particularly felt by the tip of the tongue, 
 while the taste of softness of bitter, and of sweet are 
 more easily tasted at the base of the tongue. As 
 you may see, the base of the tongue is the seat of 
 all, but other parts of the mouth help the taste. 
 Firstly, the gums, the lips, and, above all, the 
 palate, which has " papillae " which are very sensi- 
 tive, as also the " araygdales," which form a sort of 
 ring in the bottom of the mouth. A mouthful of 
 liquid firstly comes in contact with the point of the 
 tongue, and then is forced into, or, rather, through, 
 the other parts of the tongue and all the inside of 
 the month, and then coming in contact with the tast- 
 
 ing ring, or '" anneau gustatif," at the entrance of 
 the gullet. The Uquid now, having no obstacle, 
 penetrates the gullet, from which, when the liquid 
 is wine, an odour emanates, which, passing through 
 all the other parts of the mouth, will then allow 
 you to judge more fully of the quaUty of the wine. 
 All these impressions made on the senses — heat, 
 acidity, astringency, taken in by the point of the 
 tongue ; softness and body, taken in by the base 
 of the tongue and the palate and the bottom of 
 the mouth — result in an impression of harmony in 
 the mixture of all the flavours without the pre- 
 ponderance of any one of them. Then you will be 
 able to judge of the qualities necessary for the wine 
 to be perfect. 
 
 It is extremely difficult to be a good taster of 
 wines ; so difficult that the faculty of judging and 
 appreciating wine in all its forms and sorts has 
 never been, found in one person. Each wine 
 having a special taste, it is impossible for one 
 person to unite all the qualifications necessary to 
 appreciate the exact value of different wines of 
 different countries. To discover the actual faults of 
 a wine or its quaUties to come, you must know its 
 age, also the sort of grape from which it is extracted, 
 also the care that it has received or will receive, and 
 the different changes (particularised in every 
 vintage) which wines will go through before 
 arriving at perfection or of complete degeneration. 
 Wines that one person likes another does not ; a 
 wine that we do not prize to-day will seem to us 
 delicious in a few years, when it has reached its 
 maturity, and all its qualities (which have not been 
 relished up to the present time) have developed 
 themselves by successive changes ; in the same 
 way a wine which we think much of now may be 
 totally deceptive at the finish. You must remember 
 the state of your health, and also what you have 
 eaten and drunk before ; coming after fruit, sweets, 
 or savoury things, wine always tastes rough and 
 hard, but after spiced food, strong cheese, or nuts, 
 wine always seems more soft and mellow to the 
 taste than it is in reality. The organs of taste and 
 smell, as also the whole of man, have so many innate 
 influences and natural repulsions that a " gourmet " 
 himself ought to be on his guard, as he will often 
 prefer a wine which tickles his palate and disdain 
 another which is more delicate and better than the 
 one chosen. Experts and tasters, when they have 
 studied these essential principles, become speciahsts, 
 and never ply their trade except on some few vin- 
 tages. 
 
 Always take a fine crystal glass to taste the best 
 wines, and pour wine therein at a medium tem- 
 perature. After having warmed the bottom of 
 your glass in the palm of the hand, so that the 
 aroma may rise more easily, turn the wine Ughtly 
 round the glass so that the " bouquet " may be 
 more easily inhaled ; next take a long inhalation of 
 the contents, then take a mouthful and wash the 
 mouth thoroughly with it, swallow gently and 
 gradually. If you have several wines to taste do 
 not swallow it, but spit it out when you have well 
 washed your mouth with it, and also it is much 
 better to rinse your mouth after each trial. The 
 properties of alcohol, tartar, tannin, and other 
 acids give to wine what is called body. A wine is 
 warm and genial when the quantity of alcohol-gives 
 it a great deal of body ; in the contrary case it is 
 
WIN 
 
 1080 
 
 WIN 
 
 called light when all the constituent parts of the 
 wine are harmoniously mixed and well assimilated, 
 and you may say it is a rich or racy wine. You call 
 " finesse," or delicate taste, the sensation which 
 leaves in the mouth the taste and savour of a 
 good Ught wine or a good old wine, as also the 
 subtle aromatic smell given by the " bouquet " to 
 the nostrils. Wines that possess these three 
 qualities in a high degree, body, delicate taste, and 
 dneness, are perfect. 
 
 WINES, VARIETIES OF. 
 
 There are many varieties of wines, but all may 
 be roughly divided into two classes — viz. table 
 wines and fine wines. By the first we mean those 
 that are intended for ordinary use at luncheon 
 and dinner, and by the latter those that are re- 
 served for festive occasions. The most obvious 
 distinction between those two classes is their 
 relative prices. Table wines, for use as beverages, 
 may fairly include all wines that are sold at prices 
 not exceeding thirty shillings per dozen, while fine 
 wines may range from that figure up to sixty 
 shilUngs. Wines at above this latter figure are 
 called cabinet wines, and are, of course, only 
 used by wealthy people, or on exceptional occa- 
 sions. It is quite unnecessary to give a high 
 price for a good wine, as among the varieties of 
 table wines there are many that are wholesome 
 and excellent, fulfilling every condition by which 
 good wine can be judged. Connoisseurs of wine 
 often pay fancy prices for particular vintages, but 
 this is seldom a criterion of their real value, as 
 other vintages at half the price may be equally 
 good. The great bulk of the wines of France, 
 Spain, Italy, and the Rhine are comparatively 
 cheap wines. The really rare and expensive wines 
 seldom come into the market, being reserved for 
 certain royal and illustrious patrons. Most sherry 
 is exported from the country of its origin at £15 
 per butt of 126 gallons, and, taking one quality 
 ■with another, the average price is only £28 per 
 butt. The great bulk of port wine is exported 
 at between £22 and £25 per pipe, and there is 
 but an insignificant quantity of finer qualities ex- 
 ported at from £50 to £80. The great bulk of 
 wines may be called cheap wines, and if any 
 wine merchant says that he does not deal in cheap 
 wines he is not to be believed. He may sell 
 them at a high price, but they are cheap wines 
 nevertheless. Before the duty on light wines was 
 reduced in 1869, wine was the drink only of the 
 upper classes, but now that a bottle of sound 
 claret or Sauterne may be had for a shilUng or 
 fifteen pence, wine has become a popular dinner 
 beverage, which is gaining in public appreciation 
 every year. This is a change which the social 
 reformer cannot but view with pleasure, as it is 
 in every way in the interests of true temperance, 
 and the public benefit resulting therefrom is 
 great. 
 
 In attempting to make a classification of wines 
 we are met by the difiiculty that we are apt to rely 
 too exclusively upon our sense of taste instead 
 of forming a just valuation from all the elements 
 whereby our judgment should be governed. 
 Although we have taken price as forming the 
 most obvious distinction between different kinds 
 of wines, we do not mean it to be inferred that 
 
 it forms an exact or even sufficient classification, 
 for prices are often capricious, and are frequently 
 governed by a name or a reputation instead of 
 quality. Champagne, for instance, that is not 
 intrinsically worth . more than three shiUings a 
 bottle may be so largely advertised and " boomed " 
 that it may fetch anything between 84s. and 
 120e. per dozen, and be retailed at restaurants at 
 fifteen shillings a bottle, but its quality is not 
 increased thereby. To make an exact elassi- 
 fication of every kind of wine would be impossible, 
 because all vintages'are subject to great variations, 
 and the wines fi'om a particular district may rank 
 in the first class one year and in the sixth oi 
 seventh class the following year. A classification, 
 therefore, that might be true and correct of the 
 wines of one year might not apply to the wines 
 of the next year. It would be impossible even 
 to construct a general average that would not be 
 misleading. 
 
 By general consent sherry stands at the head 
 of all wines ; or perhaps it would be more correct 
 to say that it would do so were it not deteriorated 
 with plaster, colouring, sweetening, and brandy. 
 The wines that come under the designation of 
 sherry are many, and they differ in strength, 
 flavour, colour, and sweetness. 'Of the pale dry 
 varieties Amontillado is the most dehcate and 
 costly. Manzanillas are dehcate high-class wines, 
 light, and with little more alcohol than the finer 
 vintages of hock. The aromatic flavour is supposed 
 to be due to the soil on which the grape is grown. ~ 
 The golden and brown sherries supply the demand 
 for a sweeter wine, as the unblended wines are 
 too dry for many palates. Good sherry will keep 
 for almost an indeiinite. time in the wood, but it 
 must be pure and good to start with. 
 
 Port wine is, strictly speaking, the product of 
 the sunny vineyards of Portugal, but the term 
 now embraces Spanish wines fi-om the districts 
 of Tarragona and Reus. There is about these 
 latter wines a certain roughness, but they are for 
 the most part sound and rehable, and their price 
 is moderate. Then there is French mountain 
 port, which possesses a distinctive character, and 
 is considered light and digestible. Crusted ports, 
 which have been some years in bottle, require 
 considerable care in decanting. They should . 
 never be decanted as soon as delivered by the 
 wine merchant, as after a journey they require 
 a rest of a few weeks to regain their brilliancy. 
 Unfortunately, no wine has been more systematically 
 doctored and fortified than port. When port is 
 ordered for convalescents and invalids, it should 
 be chosen with regard rather to soundness and 
 genuine character than price. 
 
 The wines of the Gironde are inferior to sherry 
 and port in body, but superior by the comparative 
 absence of adulteration. In this rank we may 
 include the better class of champagnes, white 
 Burgundies, and Rhine wines. According to Dr. 
 Thudichum's classification, " then follow the red 
 wines of Burgundy, Mafon and Beaujolaig ; then 
 the white wines of the Palatinate. Now foUow 
 Greek, Austrian, and Hungarian wines, Tokay 
 excepted, of which the sweet, thick varieties take 
 a place by themselves, as not being wines in the 
 sense here defined ; but the czamorodnies are com- 
 parable, and take a place after those previously 
 
WIN 
 
 1081 
 
 WIN 
 
 mentioned. Any rating of wines has to be based 
 upon the absolute qualities, total quantities of pro- 
 duct, prices, average success in vears, absence of 
 variability, and of faults— in short, upon the 
 average result of a consideration of all the factors 
 which make a wine of the greatest use to the 
 » greatest number at the least cost." 
 
 Of our own colonies, Australia is the first in 
 the race in the production of wines, although 
 second in time to the Cape of Good Hope. The 
 Americans have for some years been celebrated 
 for the Catawba wine, which is produced on the 
 banks of the Ohio ; and for their Californian wines, 
 which have gained considerable favour with the 
 British public. 
 
 WINES, WHOLESOMENESS OF. 
 
 Wines may be resolved into two great divisions ; 
 into those which are coloured, and commonly called 
 red wines, and those which have a yellow tinge, 
 more or less deep, termed white wines. This colour- 
 ing matter is not derived from the juice, but from 
 the husk of the grapes. If, therefore, the fermenta, 
 tion be not permitted to take place in contact with 
 the husks, a colourless wine is in all cases produced. 
 This colouring matter is highly astringent, and 
 consequently the red wines differ from the white in 
 •their effects upon the stomach ; and yet it is 
 difficult to explain the well-known extent of this 
 operation by the presence of so small a proportion 
 of active matter. It must, however, be remembered 
 that irritable stomachs are frequently; impatient 
 of astringent matter. Many persons are incapable 
 of drinking port wine, in consequence of the heart- 
 burn it occasions ; while others, on the contrary, 
 appear to derive advantage from the tonic influence 
 of its astringency. This is a circumstance of idio- 
 syncrasy which no theory can explain. A popular 
 writer remarks, " When my stomach is not in good 
 temper, it generally desires to have red wine ; but 
 when in best health nothing affronts it more than 
 to put port into it ; and one of the first symptoms 
 of its coming into adjustment is a wish for white 
 wine. Every physician is practically aware of the 
 caprice which the stomach displays in its morbid 
 conditions ; but as a general rule it may be stated 
 that white deserves a preference over red wines, 
 because the latter being pressed and subjected to a 
 stronger fermentation to extract the colouring 
 principle from the husk are necessarily more loaded 
 with extractive and astringent matter ; and as this 
 remains in the stomach after the liquid portion of 
 the wine is absorbed, it will be liable to occasion 
 disturbance." 
 
 It is a fact not easily explained that the stomach 
 is frequently outraged by a wine to which it has 
 not been accustomed ; and it is equally true that 
 a mixture of different wines is a common source of 
 indigestion. The custom of mixing wine with 
 water has its advantages as well as its evils. By 
 dilution it frequently proves too Uttle stimulant 
 to the stomach, and runs into a state of acescency. 
 An invahd is also thus liable to deceive himself by 
 taking more wine than may be consistent with his 
 welfare. Much, however, depends upon the quaUty 
 of the wine taken ; the lighter wines cannot require 
 dilution, while port is certainly rendered less in- 
 jurious by the admixture^ although the flavour is 
 to a large extent destroyed. 
 
 WINGED GAME, SAUCE FOR. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pint of the gravy which runs 
 from the birds, put it into a saucepan, ivith a clove 
 of garlic, a few peppercorns, a dessert-spoonful of 
 lemon-juice, a tea-spoonful of salad-oil, and the 
 thin rind of a quarter of a Seville orange cut into 
 strips. Boil the gravy till it is pleasantly flavoured, 
 skim and strain it, add a glassful of wine, and salt 
 to taste, and serve. Time to boil the gravy, about 
 a quarter of an hour. Sufiicieht for six or seven 
 persons. 
 
 WINTER HOTCH-POTCH. 
 
 Soak three-quarters of a pound of dried green 
 peas overnight, then boil them til) tender, and 
 pulp them through a sieve. Take from three to 
 four pounds of the best end of the neck or loin of 
 mutton, or of the thick flank of beef. Either cut 
 the meat into neat pieces or keep it whole, as pre- 
 . ferred. Grate four carrots, and cut as many 
 turnips into small dice. Put them, with a few 
 sticks of celery and a large onion, or a leek and a 
 bunch of parsley, into .a stewpan, pour over them 
 about four quarts of water, and bring them gently 
 to the boil. Put in the meat, add pepper and salt^ 
 and simmer all gently together for about two hours. 
 Add the pulped peas, boil a quarter of an hour 
 longer, andserve. If liked, a cabbage, finely shredded, 
 may be added to the other vegetables. The meat 
 may either be served with the soup or on a "separate 
 dish. If liked, it may be taken out when it is done 
 enough, and put aside till it is to be served, then 
 heated again in a little of the soup. Rice or pearl 
 barley may be substituted for the peas. Time, 
 two hours to stew the vegetables. Probable cost, 
 4s. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. 
 
 WINTER HOTCH-POTCH (another way). 
 
 This dish may either be made of fresh beef or of a 
 neck or back ribs of mutton, or of a mixture of 
 both. Cut four pounds of meat into neat pieces. 
 Boil and skim well, add carrots and turnips sliced, 
 small leeks and parsley cut down, and some finely 
 chopped cabbage ; and, if tender, put in only half an 
 hour before the soup is completed. Season with 
 pepper and salt. The quantity of vegetables must 
 be regulated by the quantity of meat, so that the 
 soup may have consistency, but not be disagreeably 
 thick. Serve the meat and soup together. Rice, 
 or dry but tender green peas, may, if liked,' be 
 boiled in the soup. 
 
 WINTER JELLY, MOSAIC. 
 
 Boil half a pint of cream. When it boils, infuse 
 the peel either of an orange or of a lemon, according 
 as you wish to decorate the jelly with either. When 
 the cream has imbibed the flavour of the fruit, put 
 in a Uttle sugar. Break the yolks of four eggs, 
 beat them with the cream, lay it on the fire to 
 thicken, and then put in some isinglass that has 
 previously been melted. Strain the whole through 
 a hair sieve, and put it in a basin, well covered, on 
 some ice, in order that it may get quite firm. Now 
 take the mould which you intend to use, brush it 
 lightly with oil all over the inside, and then cut the 
 white cream jelly with a knife in the first place, and 
 next with small tin cutters. Decorate the mould 
 without putting it on ice, for the damp would; 
 prevent the decoration from sticking on. Decorate 
 the bottom first, next the sides ; then only put the 
 
WIN 
 
 1082 
 
 WIN 
 
 mould over ice. Novy pour in a little orange jelly 
 lightly not to injure the decoration, and let it get 
 thick. When the orange jelly is frozen, thrust the 
 mould deeper into the ice ; then put a little more 
 jelly to the height of the lower decoration on the 
 sides ; let the preparation be made firm again. Mind 
 the jelly is never to come higher than the flowerets 
 till the bottom has been first made firm, then gradu- 
 ally ascend to the top. Cover and surround the 
 mould with ice. When you wish to serve up, dip 
 a towel into some hot water, and rub the mould all 
 round. Ascertain that none of the jelly sticks to 
 the sides before you meddle with the bottom of the 
 mould ; then rub the bottom with the hot towel, 
 and turn the jelly neatly into a dish. Were it not 
 for all these precautions, the two colours would 
 melt and mix with one another. This jelly looks 
 J beautiful when well made. N.B. — It is to be 
 observed that this jelly can only be made in winter, 
 hence its name ; for during the summer season it ■ 
 would melt, except made bard, then it would not be 
 good ; however, you may work it in a very cold 
 place. 
 
 WINTER SALADS. 
 
 In winter-time excellent salads may be made 
 with endive, celery, beetroot, scraped horse-radish, 
 boiled pojiatoes, or whatever vegetables are avail- 
 able. A pretty effect may be produced by con- 
 trasting the different colours of the ingredients. 
 Two or three recipes are given for the preparation 
 of a dish which may be varied in numberless ways. 
 No. 1. Wash thoroughly in two or three waters a 
 head of endive and another of celery. Dry them 
 perfectly, and put with them a small proportion of 
 red cabbage faiely shredded, and some mustard 
 and cress, if it is to be had. Rub the inside of a 
 salad bowl with » slice of fresh onion, put in the 
 mixed vegetables, toss them hghtly in good salad 
 sauce, garnish the salad with slices of boiled beetroot, 
 and serve. No. 2. Wash a head of endive, dry it 
 perfectly, and shred it finely. Place it in the 
 centre of a dish, and arrange neatly round it, first, 
 a little red cabbage, and then some white celery 
 cut up small. Garnish the salad with sliced beet- 
 root, and hard-boiled eggs, cut into quarters length- 
 wise. Send the sauce to table in a boat, and mix 
 it with the salad at the moment of serving. No. 3. 
 Take equal portions of pickled cabbage, fresh celery, 
 and cold boiled potato — one pound of each. Cut 
 the celery into small pieces, throw them into boiling 
 water for ten minutes, and drain them. Drain the 
 cabbage from its vinegar, mix it with the celery, and 
 Sdd the cold boiled potatoes thinly sliced. Pepper 
 the salad, toss it hghtly in three table-spoonfiils 
 of good Lucca oil, add a table-spoonful of chopped 
 tarragon leaves, and serve. No. 4. Boil some 
 small onions ; let them get cold, then place them 
 at the bottom of a salad bowl, and put round them 
 three or four gherkins chopped small. Cover with 
 pieces of herring or anchovy, and add a liberal 
 allowance of pickled tunny or salmon. Sprinkle a 
 little chopped parsley and a table-spoonful of 
 bruised capers over the salad, and garnish with 
 hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters lengthwise, and 
 olives irom which the kernels have been removed. 
 Serve a good sauce with the salad. Cold boiled 
 potatoes, Brussels sprouts, endive, or celery will 
 be a valuable addition. Beetroot and raw apples 
 
 may also be added. No. 5. Procure two heads of 
 celery ; wash and dry them, and cut the white 
 stalks into pieces an inch long. Toss them lightly 
 in a salad bowl with some mayonnaise sauce. Cover 
 the surface with hard-boiled yolk of egg which has 
 been rubbed through a wire sieve ; sprinkle a tea- 
 spoonful of chopped green parsley over the egg, and ' 
 garnish the celery with a border of boiled beetroot, 
 cut into thin strips and arranged Uke trelhs-work. 
 Two or three black truffles, chopped small and 
 sprinkled over the egg yolk, will have a very good 
 appearance and improve the flavour of the salad. 
 German sausage or pink bam, thinly shced, may be 
 served round the salad. Cold dressed vegetables, 
 finely shredded, and seasoned with pepper, salt, 
 oil, and vinegar, may be served as a salad (see also 
 Russian Salad). 
 
 WINTER SNOW. 
 
 Take the white of six eggs, which will be enough 
 for an entremet ; whip them till they get thick ; 
 have some milk boiling in a large stewpan over 
 the fire ; poach several spoonfuls of the whites in 
 it, and when done enough, drain and dish them. 
 Next, make a sauce to pour over them in the 
 following manner. Take some of the milk in which 
 you have poached your eggs, then put a little sugar, 
 a little orange-flower, and a httle salt ; mix the 
 yolks of four eggs with the same, stir the whole on 
 the fire till the sauce is made thick, put it through a 
 tammy, and mask the snow with it. 
 WINTER SOUP. 
 
 Break into small pieces the bones of a joint of 
 roast beef which weighed six or seven pounds 
 before it was roasted. Put these into a stewpan, pour 
 over them four quarts of cold water, or the liquor 
 in which fresh beef or mutton has been boiled, and 
 add two large onions sliced, a tea-spoonful of whole 
 pepper, and a dessert-spoonful of salt. Bring the 
 liquor to the boil, skim it carefully, draw it back, and 
 let it simmer gently till the bones are quite clean. 
 Strain the hquor, let it get cold, and free it entirely 
 from fat. Wash and scrape eight large carrots. 
 Slice the red part only very thinly. Put the shoes 
 into a stewpan with three or four sticks of celery 
 cut up small and a turnip cut into dice. Place a 
 large lump of dripping or fresh butter upon the 
 vegetables, cover the saucepan closely, and steam 
 the vegetables for a quarter of an hour or more. 
 Shake the saucepan occasionally to keep them from 
 burning. Pour over them as much of the stock from 
 the bones as will cover them, and let them simmer 
 till quite tender. Rub them through a hair sieve. 
 Add to the pulp as mxich stock as will make the 
 soup of the consistency of thick cream ; let it boil 
 again, add salt and pepper to taste, and serve vtry 
 hot. Very small suet dumpUngs, lightly made 
 and boiled seps^rately in water, are sometimes 
 served in winter soups. Time, four hours to 
 simmer the bones. Probable cost, exclusive of 
 the bones, lOd. Snfiicient for ten or twelve 
 persons. 
 WINTER SOUP, CLEAR. 
 
 A short time before it is wanted, clarify some 
 stock made from fresh meat («ee Clbab Soup). 
 Cut the red part of two large carrots and a turnip 
 into quarter-inch dice. Divide two white stalks 
 of celery into shreds, and skin a dozen button 
 onions. Half_boil the vegetables in salted water 
 
IX. 
 
 
 
 H 
 
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WIN 
 
 1083 
 
 WOO 
 
 to which a little sugar has been added. Drain them, 
 imd put them into a stewpan with about three pints 
 of the clear stock, boiling. Let them simmer till 
 tender, and serve. 
 
 WINTER SQUASH. 
 
 The squash is a kind of gourd, which is cultivated 
 in America as an article of food. To dress it, pare 
 a large yellow squash, remove the strings and seeds 
 from the inside, and cut it into small pieces. Put 
 these into a stewpan, pour upon them as much hot 
 water as will cover them, and simmer gently till 
 tender. Drain them in a colander, and mash them 
 till quite smooth. ^Season the mash with pepper 
 and salt, and mix a, slice of fresh butter into it. 
 Put it into a tureen, dot it over with small spots of 
 pepper, garnish with sprigs of parsley, and serve. 
 Time to simmer the squash, half an hour or more. 
 WINTER SQUASH (an American recipe). 
 
 Winter squashes are stewed in the same way as 
 others, but they must remain on the fire a little 
 longer. Cut up the squashes in pieces of an inch 
 thick, having fcst pared them ; if old, extract the 
 seeds and boil the pieces until they break, mash 
 them with a spoon, boil them a little longer, and 
 when they are done squeeze them through a 
 colander. Mix them with a Httle salt and a small 
 quantity of butter. If kept in a, dry place winter 
 squashes will remain good all the winter, but if they' 
 are once frozen, they lose their flavour and are 
 apt to decay. They are richer and firmer than the 
 summer kind. 
 
 WISDOM SOUP. 
 
 Take a pound of beef, a pound of veal, and a 
 pound of mutton, cut into pieces ; put the meat into 
 two gallons of water with an old cock cut into 
 pieces, a piece of carrot, the upper crust of a penny 
 loaf toasted very crisp, a little bundle of sweet 
 herbs, an onion, a tea-spoonful of black and one of 
 white pepper, four or five blades of mace, and four 
 cloves ; cover it and stew over a slow fire until 
 the liquor is reduced one half, then strain it 
 off and put it into a clean saucepan with two or 
 three large spoonfuls of raspings clean sifted, half 
 an ounce of truffles and morels, three or four 
 heads of celery cut small, an ox's palate first 
 boiled tender and cut into small pieces, a few 
 cocks'- combs, a,nd a few of the little hearts of 
 young savoys ; cover close, and simmer the whole 
 very softly over a slow fire for two hours; then 
 have ready a French roll fried, and a few forcemeat 
 balls fried, put them in your dish and pour in the 
 soup. You may boil a leg of veal, and a leg of 
 beef, and as many fine things as you like, but this 
 is Ukely to be rich and high enough. You may 
 leave out the cocks' -combs, palates, and truffles, etc. , 
 if these are not liked — it will be good soup without 
 them ; and if you would have'your soup very clear 
 do not put in the raspings. Vermicelli is good in it 
 — an ounce put in just before you take it up ; let it 
 boil four or five minutes. You may make this soup 
 of beef or veal alone, just as you fancy. A leg of 
 beef will do without either veal, mutton, or fowl. 
 WITCHES, BERG/rUDA. 
 
 {See Beemtjda WrrcHES.) 
 WOLFRAM KETCHUP. 
 
 Into two gallons of very stale ale— the stronger 
 the better — put a pound and a half of anchovies 
 
 washed and cleansed from the entrails, half ah 
 ounce of mace, the same quantity of cloves, a 
 quarter of an ounce of allspice, the same quantity 
 of long pepper, four ohiUies, halt a dozen lumps 
 of ginger, a pound of shallots, six lumps of 
 sugar, and two quarts and a half of large mush- 
 rooms well rubbed and picked. Boil all these 
 slowly in a well-tinned stewpan for an hour, 
 then run the liquor through a jelly-bag. Let it 
 stand until cold, then bottle it, cork the bottles 
 well, tie a bit of bladder over each cork, and cover 
 the bladder with sealing-wax. This is the most 
 delicious of fish sauces, and one table-spoonful 
 of it will suffice for a pint of melted butter. 
 This ketcbup will keep good more than twenty- 
 years. 
 
 WONDERS. 
 
 These cakes are made thus : Take one table- 
 spoonful of butter, one of sugar, one egg, and a 
 Httle spice. Mix stiff with flour, and boil in lard. 
 WOODCOCK. 
 
 Woodcocks, like snipe, are only good when they 
 are fat. They are cooked but in a very few ways. 
 The most delicate parts are the legs and the 
 intestines. The fillets of woodcocks, for those per- 
 sons who do not like their meat underdone, are 
 tough, and without savour. They are held in high 
 
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 WINTER SALAD. 
 
 estimation when roasted or en salmi [aa a hash). A 
 puree of woodcocks is also served occasionally. 
 They may, however, be dressed in as many ways 
 as young partridges. 
 
 When roasted, you must always put a toast 
 under partridges to receive the intestines, which 
 generally drop out while roasting vmless paper 
 is used to secure them. Take care to stop the 
 spit when the back is towards the fire, because 
 the legs are to be well done and the ffllets 
 underdone. 
 
 WOODCOCK (k la Lucullus). 
 
 Boast the woodcocks in the usual way, and 
 cateh the trail on a toast. Take the birds up while 
 they are still underdone, pour over them a little 
 melted butter with which the yolk of an egg and a 
 little cream has been mixed, sprinkle grated bread- 
 crumbs lightly over them, brown them in a Duteh 
 oven or with a salamander, and serve with brown 
 
woo 
 
 10B4 
 
 WOO 
 
 gravy. Time to roast the .woodcocks, fifteen to 
 .twenty minutes. Probable cost, imcertain. 
 WOODCOCK (a la Perigueux). 
 
 Truss three woodcocks, cover them with layers 
 of bacon, and tie these on securely with string. Put 
 them into a stewpan, pour over them as much richly- 
 flavoured stock as will barely cover them, and add 
 a glassful of sherry or Madeira. Let them simmer 
 gently till done enough. Drain them, and remove 
 the tapes. Put them on a dish, pour over them 
 soipe Perigueux or truffle sauce, and serve. 
 WOODCOCK, CHAUD FROID OF. 
 
 Truss foiu: woodcocks, and to keep them Trom 
 acquiring any colour, wrap them in buttered 
 writing paper. Roast before a clear fire, let them 
 get cold, and cut them into neat joints. Make a 
 little highly-seasoned and stiffly -reduced allemande 
 sauce. - Cover- the joints of woodcock evenly with 
 this, and put them on a dish in a cold place till 
 it is set. Put in the centre of a dish a block of 
 fried bread three inches high and an inch and a 
 half across. Place the woodcock roimd this in a 
 .pyramidal form, and ornament the dish with aspic 
 jelly- 
 WOODCOCK, DEVILLED. 
 
 Divide a brace of under-done woodcocks into 
 neat joints, and season the pieces with a savoury 
 powder made in the proportion of a tea-spoonful 
 of salt to a tea-spoonful of curry-powder, a, tea- 
 spoonful of cayenne, and a dessert-spoonful of mush- 
 room-powder. SpUt the heads, take out the brains 
 and put them in a basin with the trail, the yolk of 
 a hard-boiled egg, the grated rind of half a lemon, 
 a, pinch of pounded mace, and » table-spoonful of 
 soy. Rub the mixture with the back of a wooden 
 'spoon till it is smooth, and add the juice of two 
 Seville oranges, a table-spoonful of ketchup, and a 
 glassful of Madeira or sherry. Put the sauce with 
 the birds into a silver dish over a spirit lamp, stir 
 occasionally, and simmer gently till it is very hot 
 and the flesh has become thoroughly impregnated 
 with the Uquor. Stir in quickly a dessert-spoonful 
 of salad oil, and serve immediately. 
 WOODCOCK, FILLETS OF. 
 
 Take six woodcocks, cut neatly the fillets from 
 each side of the breast and the slices from the 
 sides. Season them all with pepper and salt. Put 
 the large fillets into a saucepan, pour clarified 
 butter over them, cover with a round of buttered 
 paper, and let them Cook gently till done enough. 
 Put the small fillets into a buttered baking-dish, 
 place a Uttle piece of trufiie upon each, and bake 
 in a gentle oven. Arrange the fillets neatly in a 
 circle on a dish, put a little truffle puree in the 
 centre, and serve with brown gravy in a boat. 
 
 WOODCOCK, FILLETS OF (4 la Talleyrand). 
 
 Take two woodcocks, truss them, and roast them, 
 basting them well with clarified butter. Remove 
 the fillets and put them on a plate. Remove the 
 meat from the legs, free it from skin, and pound it 
 in a niortar. Pound together, till smooth, four ounces 
 of fillet of beef and two punces of fat pork ; add 
 four ounces of panada and the pounded game, and 
 work in two yolks of eggs. Season with salt and 
 pepper to taste, and rub through a fine sieve. Trim 
 the fillets neatly, cover each completely with the 
 above mixture. When set, dip them in beaten white 
 
 of egg, place in a buttered saute-pan, cover with a gill 
 of white stock and a glass of white wine, and cook 
 in a quick oven for twelve minutes. Drain on a cloth, 
 and dish them up alternately with croutons of 
 fried bread on » thin border of mashed potatoes. 
 Serve with a game sauce {see Game, Sauce tor), in 
 which the remains, if any, of the pounded mixture 
 may be stirred over the fire imtil the sauce begins 
 to thicken. 
 
 WOODCOCK, FILLETS OF, WITH TRUFFLE 
 PUREE. 
 
 Remove the fillets of six woodcocks ; trim and 
 put them in a buttered saute-pan ; sprinkle them 
 with salt and pepper ; pour a Uttle clarified butter 
 over them, cover them with a round of buttered 
 paper, and cook them over a slow fire. Dish them 
 in a circle round a croustade of fried bread. Fill the 
 croustade with truffle puree, pour some of the 
 gravy from the saut6-pan over the fillets, and serve. 
 The truffle puree is made as follows. Take half a 
 pound of well-cleaned and peeled truffles ; poimd 
 them in a mortar with an ounce of butter, and 
 press them through a hair sieve. Reduce three 
 giUs of Espagnole sauce by one-third, and add the 
 puree to it. Before serving, boil up the puree, and 
 thicken it with an ounce of butter and an ounce ol 
 glaze. Probable cost, uncertain. 
 
 "WOODCOCK, GRAVY FOR. 
 
 Plain melted butter or gravy is generally served 
 with woodcocks. It should be put in a tureen, as 
 if it were poured into the dish with the birds it 
 would destroy their fiavour. A sauce prepared as 
 follows may, if preferred, be sent to table with the 
 birds. Put a tea-cupful of veal stock into a sauce- 
 pan with a small onion, haU an inch of thin lemon- 
 rind, and five or six leaves of basil. Let the gravy 
 simmer for a few minutes, then strain it. Put with 
 it the juice of a Seville orange or of a lemon, a 
 glassful of claret, and a little salt and cayenne. 
 Make, it hot, anjd serve imme^fately.. 
 
 WOODCOCK, GRAVY FOR (another way). 
 
 {See Orange Gravy for Teal, Widgeon, Snipes, 
 Woodcock, etc.) 
 woodcock, marinaded. 
 
 (See Grouse, or Woodcock, Marinadbd.) 
 
 WOODCOCK, MOCK. 
 
 Beat two eggs, and mix with them a table- 
 spoonful of cream. Fillet half a dozen anchovies, 
 warm them before the fire, put them with the eggs 
 into a small saucepan, and stir them briskly over 
 the fire for a minute or two until the sauce thickens. 
 Add a little minced cooked tongue or ham, spread 
 the preparation on toast, and serve as hot as 
 possible. 
 
 WOODCOCK PIE (to be eaten cold). 
 
 Line the edges of a dish with good pufi-paste. 
 Put at the bottom a sUce of lean veal weU seasoned 
 with pepper, salt, and pounded mace, aiid on this 
 place a slice^ of thin lean ham. Pluck four wood- 
 cocks carefully, so as not to injure the tender- flesh. 
 Do not open ttem, but season with pepper, salt, and 
 mace, and cover them with layers of bacon. Pack 
 them closely into the dish, and fill up the empty 
 spaces with hard-boiled plovejs' or hens' eggs. 
 Pour over all a pint of strong beef gravy, so strong 
 that it will jelly when cold, and cover the dish 
 
woo 
 
 1085 
 
 WOO 
 
 with pastry. Brush it over witjii egg, ornament it, 
 and place in the centre two or three of the feet 
 nicely cleaned. - Balie the pie in a well-heated oven, 
 until the pastry is done enough. A woodcock pie 
 is considered a rare delicacy, though it is rather an 
 expensive one. Time to bake the pie, an hour or 
 more. Probable cost, uncertain, 
 
 WOODCOCK, POTTED. 
 
 Take any number of fresh woodcocks. Pluck 
 them carefully, and cut off their legs and wings. 
 Split the birds in halves, and lay them on a dish. 
 Take away the gizzards with the point of a knife, 
 and with this exception, leave the inside or trail 
 undisturbed. line the inside of an ordinary 
 potting-pan with thin sUces of fat bacon. Fill it 
 with the woodcocks placed neatly and closely in 
 layers upon the bacon, and season each layer with 
 salt and black pepper. When the pan is full, pour 
 over the woodcocks as much clarified butter as 
 will cover them, and cover the pan with a coarse 
 paste of flour and water. Make a hole in the centre 
 of the lid, and bake the woodcocks in a, moderate 
 oven. They must not be eaten till they are quite 
 cold. When a skewer can be pushed easily to the 
 bottom of the pan, the Woodcocks are sufficiently 
 baked. 
 
 WOODCOCK, POTTED (another way). 
 
 Pick and clean the birds nicely, but do not draw 
 out the trail ; fix the bills to the tliighs, and the 
 legs on the breasts, with small skewers ; season 
 them highly with mace, pepper, and salt, and put 
 them into a deep pot with fresh butter to bake in a 
 moderate oven. When done enough, take them 
 out to drain on a ^ieve, and when cold, place them 
 in pots, and cover them completely with clarified 
 butter. Tie bladder over them securely to exclude 
 the air, and set them in a dry place. 
 
 WOODCOCK, POTTED (another way). 
 
 Rub the woodcocks very well with seasoning, 
 then surround each with a coating of butter, and 
 next with a buttered paper, over which put a paste 
 of flour and water. Lay them upon tins, and bake 
 them. Do not take off the crust and paper till the 
 woodcocks are cold. Put one in each pot, and cover 
 it with clarified butter. The woodcocks must not 
 be drawn. 
 
 WOODCOCK PUDDING. 
 
 Pluck a woodcock very carefully, so as not to 
 injure the tender flesh, and, without opening it, 
 truss it for roasting. Line a pudding basin with 
 pastry. Put into it a slice of tender rump steak 
 seasoned with pepper and salt only, put in the wood- 
 cock, and place another steak over it. Pour over 
 the meat a quarter of a pint of strong beef gravy, 
 cover the basin with pastry, tie it rather loosely 
 in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and 
 keep the pudding boihng till done enough. Take 
 it up, let it stand a few minutes, turn it upon a dish, 
 and serve. Time to boil the pudding, two hours 
 and a half. Probable cost, liiicertain. Sufficient 
 for four or five persons. 
 
 WOODCOCK PUREE (for patties, croustades, etc.). 
 Take the remains of qooked woodcock. Pick the 
 flesh from the bones, and put the skin; bones, and 
 trimmings into a saucepan, pour over them a Uttle 
 stock or water, and add a shallot, a small piece of 
 
 celery, a sprig of thyme, and three or four pepper- 
 corns. Let' the gravy simmer gently till it is strong 
 and good. Mince the flesh finely, and pound it in 
 a mortar with a spoonful of stock and a little piece 
 of butter. When reduced to a pulp, rub it through 
 a hair sieve. Strain the stock, free it entirely from 
 fat, and boil till it is considerably reduced. Season 
 with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and mix 
 with it double the quantity of white sauce. If 
 this is not at hand, a quarter of a pint of cream and 
 a small spoonful of flour will answer the same 
 purpose. Put the pulp into the sauce, stir it over 
 the fire till it is hot, and it will be ready for use. 
 Time, an hour and a half or more to simmer the . 
 bones. Probable cost, uncertain. 
 
 WOODCOCK RAISED PIE, COLD. 
 
 Make some good veal forcemeat. Bone four 
 woodcocks. Put the bones and trimmings into 
 a saucepan with a shallot, a small onion, and a sprig 
 of thyme, and cover them with stock. Let them 
 simmer till the gravy is strong and good. Remove 
 the gizzard from the trail, then pound it, and mix 
 it with the forcemeat. Place the woodcocks, skin 
 downwards, open upon a board, spread over them 
 first a layer of forcemeat, then two or three sliced 
 truffles, and another layer of forcemeat. Fold the 
 skin over, and restore the birds to something of their 
 original shape. Line a pie-mould with pastry [see 
 Raised Pies). Put a layer of forcemeat at the 
 bottom, place two woodcocks on this, cover them 
 with a few sUces of truffle and a thin layer of force- 
 meat, put in the other two woodcocks with a little 
 more truffle and another layer of forcemeat, and 
 place some thin slices of fat bacon over all. Cover 
 the pie, and finish in the usual way. Bake in a 
 moderate oven. Half an hour after it has been 
 taken out of the oven, pour into it a httle of the 
 gravy from the bones, which should be strong enough 
 to form a jelly when cold {see Raised Pies oe Game 
 OB POTiLTiiY). Close the hole in the cover, and 
 when the pie is cold, serve on a dish covered with 
 a napkin. 
 
 WOODCOCK RAISED PIE, HOT. 
 
 Prepare some forcemeat as in the last recipe. 
 Divide iow: woodcocks into quarters. Line a pie- 
 mould with pastry {see Raised Pies), and fill it 
 with alternate layers of forcemeat and pieces of 
 woodcock. Cover it, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 Take it out, pour into it some good brown sauce 
 made of the trimmings of the woodcock stewed in 
 beef gravy. Serve hot upon a dish covered with a 
 napkin. If Uked, a hollow place may be left in 
 the centre of the pie, into which a piece of the 
 crumb of bread, covered with fat bacon, may be 
 put, whilst the pie is being baked. When done 
 enough, this hollow may be filled with shced 
 truffles mixed in brown sauce. 
 
 WOODCOCK, ROAST. 
 
 Pluck the woodcocks carefully, neck and head as 
 well. Do not open them, but truss them securely' 
 {tee Woodcock, Tbttssed). Fasten them, feet 
 downwards, to a spit, put them down to a brisk, 
 clear fire, flour them, and baste liberally with drip- 
 ping or butter. When they have been down about 
 five minutes, put a buttered toast, free from crust, 
 imder them, to catch the droppings from the trail. 
 After this is done, hold a dish under them when they; 
 
woo 
 
 1086 
 
 WOO 
 
 are basted. When the steam draws to the fire, 
 they are done enough. Dish them with a piece of 
 toast under each, and garnish with watercress. 
 Send melted butter or orange gravy to table in a 
 tureen. It is an improvement to cover the wood- 
 cocks with slices of bacon before putting them down 
 to the fire, and when they are to be had, two or 
 three vine-leaves may be laid imder the bacon. 
 Time to roast the woodcocks, if liked underdone, 
 fifteen to twenty minutes ; if Uked well dressed, 
 twenty-five to thirty minutes. 
 WOODCOCK, ROAST (another way). 
 
 There is more art in roasting woodcocks than 
 any other bird of the same size. They require 
 constant attention during the operation of roasting 
 them. As they must be cooked very little — the flesh 
 of the woodcock, like that of all dark-fleshed game, 
 being digestible when almost raw, and losing its 
 savour if roasted to the same degree as a partridge — 
 their cooking occupies but little time ; therefore 
 the cook should never leave her woodcocks from 
 the moment they are put down until she takes them 
 up. Truss without drawing them, and put toast 
 under them to catch the trail, which often falls from 
 them when they are before the fire. The most 
 delicate parts of the woodcock are the legs and the 
 trail ; next, the brea.st. As this latter must be 
 very much underdone, and the legs a Uttle better 
 done, to be eatable, there is, of course, an inequality 
 in their roasting, which must be obviated by 
 stopping the spit for a time whenever the legs are 
 turned towards the fire, in order to give them » 
 greater proportion of heat. The woodcocks, when 
 done, are served up upon the toast, with melted- 
 butter only, as their flavour would be deteriorated 
 by any kind of gravy. 
 WOODCOCK, SALMI OF. 
 
 Take the remains of cold dressed woodcocks, 
 and cut off the meat in neat pieces. Place these 
 in a covered dish, and put them aside till wanted. 
 Remove the gizzards from the trail, then chop them 
 fine, and mix with them a spoonful of bread-crumbs, 
 a small sUce of butter, and a spoonful of chopped 
 parsley. Put this also aside. Scrape a carrot, 
 and put the pulp into a saucepan with two shallots, 
 two cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, six peppercorns, 
 and half a dozen mushrooms, if liked ; but these 
 may be omitted. Pour over the ingredients a pint 
 of gravy, and let them simmer for an hour. Strain 
 the hquor, and free it entirely from fat. Bruise the 
 bones and trimmings of the woodcocks, put them 
 into the strained liquor, and simmer till the former 
 are quite clean. Take'the bones out, and send the 
 gravy and the little pieces of meat that are in it 
 through a sieve, and add a glassful of sherry or 
 Madeira. Put the pieces of woodcock into a sauce- 
 pan, pour the gravy over them, and let them heat 
 gently by the side of the fire. Of course, they must 
 not boil. Toast one or two slices of crumb of bread, 
 and divide them into five or six pieces of the shape 
 of a heart. Spread the minced trail upon them, 
 sind put them in a hot oven for a few minutes. Place 
 the pieces of woodcock on a dish, pour the sauce 
 over them, and garnish with the heart-shaped 
 croutons. Time, two to three hours. 
 
 WOODCOCK, SALMI OF (another way). 
 
 Draw the gravy from a pound of gravy beef, with 
 a bit of lean ham, and a sheep's milt added to it. 
 
 Then take a few shallots, a handful of mushrooms 
 chopped, a few strips of ham, a carrot, a bunch of 
 sweet herbs, such as we have indicated for the salmi 
 of partridges, two cloves, half a dozen of peppercorns 
 and the same number of blades of allspice. Fry all 
 theseforashort time in a stewpan withalittle butter, 
 then pour in a quarter of a pint of Madeira or sherry, 
 and the gravy above mentioned. Put in also the 
 backs and necks of the birds, leaving the rumps with 
 the other limbs for the salmi. Let all stew very 
 quietly. Season to taste, and at the expiration of 
 a couple of hours strain the sauce. Then put into 
 a stewpan about an ounce and a half of butter, and, 
 when this boils, half a spoonful of flour. Stir the 
 mixture as it boils until it has assumed a rich blonde 
 "colour ; then add gradually the sauce, and let it boil 
 a quarter of an hour longer. Squeeze in the juice 
 of a lemon. If you have the trail, pound it, and 
 mix it well with the sauce. Strain this over the 
 woodcock into another stewpan. This latter must 
 now be stood near the fire, so that it may heat 
 without boiling. When the meat is fully pene- 
 trated with the sauce, serve it up very hot with 
 fried sippets. As a variation from this mode, red 
 wine may be substituted for white. 
 WOODCOCK, SALMI OF (k la Lucullus). 
 
 Ude's recipe. — For this dish you must be par- 
 ticular in having the woodcocks very much under- 
 done ; then take out the intestines, and with the 
 addition of two or three fat livers of fowls make the 
 folio wingforcemeat: — Take half a dozen mushrooms 
 chopped very fine, a shallot and some parsley the 
 same ; fry these herbs in a small bit of butter. 
 When they are nearly done, put the fat, livers, and 
 the intestines of the woodcocks to fry with them, 
 and when done put the whole into a mortar and 
 poand them very fine ; season with salt and pepper, 
 etc. ; rub this through a tamis ; then, as three 
 woodcocks give you six fillets, cut six bits of bread 
 of the same shape, fry them of a nice colour, then 
 spread the farce (forcemeat) equally divided over 
 the six pieces of bread, put them into the oven, 
 and when they are a good colour serve them between 
 each of the fillets ; as for the sauce, you make it 
 with the trimmings as usual for salmi ; this, well 
 managed, is a deUcious dish. The sauce must be 
 made early, so as to keep the fillets in it to prevent 
 them from drying ; then warm them without 
 boiling, for boiling would make the dish good for 
 nothing. Serve the legs in the middle. 
 WOODCOCK, SCOTCH, OR WOODCOCK TOAST. 
 
 Take a slice of bread from a moderate-sized stale 
 loaf, also three anchovies, one egg, and two or three 
 table-spoonfuls of thick cream. Beat the yolk of 
 the egg, mix it with the cream, and stir the mixture 
 over the fire till it thickens, but it must not boil. 
 Toast the bread, butter well on both sides, and 
 cut it in halves. Wash, scrape, and mince the 
 anchovies, put them between the pieces of toast, 
 pour the cream, etc., over the toast, and serve as 
 hot as possible. Time, five minutes to make the 
 sauce hot. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for one 
 person. 
 WOODCOCK (Sportsman's fashion). 
 
 Truss three woodcocks, and put them down to a 
 clear fire. At the end of a quarter of an hour take 
 them up, and divide them into neat joints. Put 
 the inferior portions into a saucepan, with four 
 
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 1081 
 
 WOO 
 
 minced shallots and a sprig of thyme, and add a 
 wine-glassful of good gravy, another of wine, a 
 table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and the 
 strained juice of half a lemon. Let the. gravy 
 simmer for ten minutes. Remove the gizzards from 
 the trail of the woodcocks, and pound them in a 
 mortar, with half a shallot, a slice of fresh butter, 
 and a Uttle pepper and salt. When smooth, rub the 
 p'aste through a sieve, and spread it upon some small 
 pieces of fried bread cut into the shape of hearts. 
 Before using these, put them in the oven for two 
 or three minutes. Put the joints of the woodcocks 
 into a separate saucepan, strain the gravy upon 
 them, and let them heat gently without boiling. 
 Place them on a dish, put the fried bread, with the 
 trail, round them, pour the gravy over all, and 
 serve very hot. Time, a quarter of an hour to roast 
 the woodcocks ; ten minutes to simmer the gravy. 
 
 WOODCOCK, STUFFED. 
 
 Pluck and singe the birds, take out the insides, 
 chop these fine with bacon, parsley, onion, salt, and 
 pepper; mix them with the yolks of two eggs; fill the 
 woodcocks with this forcemeat, sew them together, 
 and truss as for roasting. Cover the bottom of a 
 stewpan with thin slices of bacon, put in the birds, 
 and cover them also with bacon ; let them simmer 
 for a quarter of an hour, pour in a cupful of broth 
 and half a glassful of white wine ; let them boil over 
 a gentle fire. When done enough, take out the birds 
 and lay them on a dish ; skim the fat off the sauce, 
 strain it, add a dash of vinegar, and pour it over 
 the birds. 
 
 WOODCOCK, STUFFED AND ROASTED. 
 
 Pluck and draw two woodcocks. Remove the 
 gizzards, then mince the trail finely with half its 
 weight in fat bacon, and add a dessert-spoonful of 
 chopped parsley and a little pepper and salt. A 
 little very finely-minced shallot may be added, if 
 liked. TVuss the woodcocks, and roast them in 
 the usual way. Send them to table with gravy in 
 a tureen, and serve the trail on toast round them. 
 
 WOODCOCK, SURPRISED. 
 
 Put the trail of cold woodcocks, and two or 
 three fat livers of fowls, upon a plate in readiness. 
 Then chop very fine a dozen mushrooms, two 
 shallots, and a little parsley, and fry them in a 
 stewpan with a small bit of fresh butter. When 
 they are nearly done, put the trail and livers to 
 fry a little with the vegetables. Pound the whole 
 in a marble mortar very fine, mixing the several 
 ingredients well together. Season with salt, pepper, 
 and the least possible dash of pounded mixed spice. 
 Now fry of a nice colour six shoes of bread of the, 
 same size and shape, and spread over them in equal 
 portions the forcemeat you have just made with 
 the trails of the woodcocks and the fowls' Uvers. 
 Put them into the oven until they are of a good 
 colour, then lay them on a dish, and over them 
 place the Umbs of the birds made into a salmi in the 
 usual way, and pour the sauce over the whole. 
 
 WOODCOCK, TERRINE OF (M. Dubois' recipe). 
 
 Bone two woodcocks, divide each of them in 
 two, which pieces put into a pie-dish {terrine) with 
 five or six peeled truffles cut into quarters, the same 
 volume of cooked ham-fat, or fat bacon, in large 
 dice. Season the meat and truffles lightly, and 
 baste with the third part of a glass of Madeira. 
 
 Take off the flesh from a leg of hare, cut it in pieces, 
 fry them in a stewpan, with double its volume of Uver 
 of poultry or game. When well set, add the trails 
 of the woodcocks, then let the whole cool, to be 
 chopped afterwards with a third its volume of 
 lean pork. Season the forcemeat, put it into a 
 mortar, pound, and add to it the same quantity of 
 fresh, fat bacon, previously chopped, and pounded 
 with the trimmings of truffles, Season the force- 
 meat with a pinch of pounded aromatics ; five 
 minutes after remove it into a kitchen basin, and 
 mix with it the Madeira the woodcocks have been 
 soaking in. Mask the bottom and sides of a pie- 
 dish with some of the prepared forcemeat, arrange 
 the pieces of woodcock, the truffles, and the ham in 
 the centre, alternating with forcemeat. The pie- 
 dish must then be completely full ; smooth the top 
 with the blade of a knife, and mask it with sUces of 
 bacon. Cover the preparation, and set the pie-dish 
 in a saut^-pan with a glassful of hot water and push 
 it into a moderate oven, to bake for an hour and a 
 half. When done, take it out ; and when half 
 cold, put a hght weight on the top of the prepara- 
 tion. , When completely cold, take it off the pie, 
 cut the latter in oblong squares, which dish in a 
 circular order into the terrine. 
 
 WOODCOCK, TRUSSED. 
 
 Pluck the bird entirely, head and neck included, 
 and very carefully, to avoid tearing the tender 
 skin. Singe off the hairs and cut off the ends of 
 the toes, but do not draw the birds. Twist the 
 legs at the joints to bring the feet upon the thighs. 
 Press the wings to the sidss, and turn the head 
 under the wing, with the beak forward. Tie a 
 string round the legs and breast, and pass one also 
 round the head and the tip of the bill. Hang the 
 bird to the spit feet-downwards. 
 
 WOODCOCK, WITH OYSTERS. 
 
 Pick, draw, and wipe a brace of woodcocks ; 
 beard eighteen oysters and cut them in quarters. 
 Mix two ounces of bread-crumbs with the yolks of 
 three eggs, a quarter of a gill of cream, and one 
 ounce of butter ; add a few drops of lemon juice, 
 a pinch of ground mace, and pepper and salt to 
 taste; mix with the oysters, and stuff the birds 
 with this ; sew up and truss for roasting. Put the 
 birds in a roasting tin with a little dripping, and 
 bake in a quick oven from thirty to forty minutes, 
 basting occasionally. When done, imtruss, dish 
 up on two pieces of toasted bread, and serve with 
 a good brown sauce. 
 
 WOOD-HENS (Russian fashion). 
 
 Take three or four wood-hens (gelinoUes), truss 
 them, put them into a stewpan with butter, season, 
 and fry them all over. When about done, baste 
 them with a few table-spoonfuls of sour cream, and 
 finish cooking them, basting frequently. Drain 
 them afterwards, cut each of them into three parts, 
 and dish them up. Mix a httle bechamel into 
 the sauce, reduce it until of a good consistency, 
 then pour it over the wood-hens, masking them 
 with a thick coating. Sprinkle over bread-crumbs, 
 let them cook in the oven till the sauce is shghtly 
 coloured. 
 WOOD-HENS, PAIN OF (Swedish fashion). 
 
 Ta,ke the meat from the breasts of three wood- 
 heng (gdinottes), pare, pound it in a mortar. 
 
woo 
 
 1088 
 
 YAC 
 
 and when converted into paste add, by degrees, 
 half its volume of good butter and five or six yolks 
 of eggs. Season the preparation, pass it through a 
 sieve, put it into a kitchen basin, work it with a 
 wooden spoon for a few minutes, then introduce into 
 it the white of an egg whipped up, and about the 
 same quantity of whipped cream. When well 
 mixed up, pour the preparation into a timbale 
 mould, and poach in the " bain-marie " for twenty- 
 five minutes. When about to serve turn it out on 
 a dish, and mask with a httle bechamel sauce, 
 reduced with a few table-spoonfuls of meat-glaze. 
 
 WOODMAN'S SAUSAGES. 
 
 Take six pounds of young pork, quite free from 
 skin, gristle, or fat, cut it small, and beat it fine in a 
 mortar. Chop six pounds of beef suet very fine, 
 shred a handful of sage-leaves fine, spread the meat 
 on a clean paste-board, and shake the sage over it ; 
 shred the rind of a lemon very fine, and throw it 
 with sweet herbs on the meat ; grate two nutmegs, 
 to which put a spoonful of pepper and a large 
 spoonful of salt, throw the suet over, and mix all 
 well together ; put it down close in the pot, and 
 when used roll it up with as much egg as will make 
 it smooth and fry in the usual manner. 
 
 WOOD PIGEONS. 
 
 Wood pigeons should be allowed to hang till 
 tender before being dressed. They may be roasted, 
 and served like common pigeons. 
 
 WOODRUFF. 
 
 The woodruff is a fragrant little plant which is 
 found plentifully in woods and shady places. The 
 odour is only perceptible when the leaves are 
 bruised, or when they are dried. Woodruff is used 
 to flavour various home-made wines. 
 
 WORCESTER SAUCE, TO MAKE. 
 
 Mince two cloves of shallot, put the mince into a 
 dry bottle, and pour over it a pint of Bordeaux 
 vinegar. Add three table-spoonfuls cf essence of 
 anchovy, three table-spoonfuls of walnut ketchup, 
 two table-spoonfuls of soy, and as much cayenne as 
 is approved : the quantity cannot be given, as 
 cayenne -varies so much in quahty. Cork the 
 bottle, keep it in a cool place, and shake it well 
 twice a day for a fortnight. Strain the sauce, put 
 it in small bottles, cork closely, and store for use. 
 
 WORMWOOD LOZENGES. 
 
 Dissolve some gum tragacanth in water, and 
 mix with it a little spirit of wormwood. Add as 
 much powdered loaf sugar as will make a stiff paste, 
 and beat the mixture thoroughly. Roll it out to a 
 sheet of the thickness of a penny-piece, stamp it into 
 diamond-shaped pieces, and dry these in a cool oven. 
 
 WOW wow SAUCE, FOR BOILED BEEF OR 
 BOUILLI. 
 
 Wash and pick a handful of parsley, and shred 
 the leaves finely. Put them into a basin, and mix. 
 with them three bruised pickled walnuts. Make 
 half a pint of melted butter, using for the purpose 
 the liquor in which the meat was boiled. Put it 
 into a saucepan over a gentle fire, and stir into it 
 a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, a table-spoonful 
 of vinegar, a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, 
 and a table-spoonful of port. Simmer the sauce, 
 stirring it all the time, till it is thick. Add the 
 parsley and the walnuts, simmer the sauce a 
 
 minute longer, and serve. If hked, pickled cu- 
 cumbers may be used instead of walnuts, and the 
 flavour of the sauce may be varied by the addition 
 of any of the piquant vinegars. 
 WREATHS. 
 
 Take one pound of flour, five eggs, a quarter of a 
 pound of butter, two or three spoonfuls of cream, 
 two ounces of sugar, and a few grains of salt ; make 
 these ingredients into a paste ; roil out and form 
 into rings or wreaths. Roll the wreathsin sugar, 
 and bake on a tin in a slow oven. They may be 
 covered with chopped almonds pressed down a 
 little with the hand. 
 WREATHS, SUGAR (a Danish recipe). 
 
 Mash the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, and 
 add four raw ones, a quarter of a pound of moist 
 sugar, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and 
 half a pound of flour ; knead to a stiff paste ; pjiU 
 off small pieces, dip each in flour, roll them with the 
 hand and form into rings ; rub the upper part with 
 white of egg. Strew over with coarse-pounded 
 sugar, and bake of a Ught-brown colour. Sufficient 
 for thirty-six rings or wreaths. 
 
 WURTEMBURG SAUSAGES. 
 
 These sausages are made of a mixture of blood, 
 liver, brains, milk, bread, meat, salt, and spice, 
 which is put into skins, boiled, and smoked. When 
 they are well made, they will keep good for months ; 
 but when they are deficient in salt or spice, or 
 when they are smoked too late, or not sufficiently, 
 they undergo a process of putrefaction, which begins 
 at the centre of the sausages, making them poisonous. 
 WYVERN PUDDINGS. 
 
 Make a good batter of flour, milk, and eggs some 
 two or three hours before the puddings are required. 
 Grease some patty-pans, pour a little of the batter 
 into each, and bake in a quick oven. Turn the 
 puddings'out of the tins, put a Kttle jam upon each 
 one, and serve. 
 
 XAVIER, POTAGE A LA. 
 
 Boil two quarts of white stock with a few fresh 
 vegetables and seasoning, until nicely flavoured, 
 skimming it well. Make a batter by mixing ihe: 
 following ingredients in the order given. Eight 
 ounces Hungarian flour, a teaspoonful of salt, the 
 same of finely-powdered herbs, a fourth as much 
 white pepper, and a good pinch of grated nutmeg ; 
 into the centre of this drop three eggs, and, gradu- 
 ally, half a pint of milk, beating all the time from 
 the centre with the back of a large wooden spoon. 
 Beat hard for a few minutes ; then, using a ladle 
 perforated like an ordinary colander, put the batter 
 into the boiling soup, stirring as it falls in. The 
 batter should be thin enough to just run through 
 the ladle, but thick enongh to just retain its 
 shape in the soup. When boiled for ten to fifteen 
 minut-es, remove it from the fire and serve. Grated 
 cheese should be handed round with it. Probable 
 cost. Is. 
 
 Y 
 
 YACHTING SOUP. 
 
 Boil in a gallon of water an onion stuck with' 
 cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, three or four' 
 blades of mace, some pepper and salt ; provide 
 
YAC 
 
 1089 
 
 YAN 
 
 two hundred crayfish, reserve about a score, 
 pick the rest from the shells, saving the tails 
 whole, beat the body and shells in a mortar with a 
 pint of peas, either dry or green, but boiled tender, 
 add them to the gallon of boiling water, and after 
 stewing ten or fifteen minutes, or till all the goodness 
 is extracted, strain. Next set it over a slow fire, 
 put in a stale French roll sliced very thin ; stew till 
 half wasted ; put two ounces of butter in a saucepan, 
 shake in two table-spoonfuls of flour, add an onion, 
 and stir about to keep from burning ; put in the 
 tails of the crayfish and a pint of the soup, let all 
 simmer for five minutes, then take out the onion, 
 fry a Frerich roll brown, also the score of reserved 
 fish, and pour all the soup together, serve up in a 
 dish, and lay the roll in the middle, with the cray- 
 fish around. Be sure to pick out the bags and the 
 woolly part of the crayfish before you pound them. 
 
 YACHT SAUCE (k la Monico). 
 
 Mix a tea-spoonful of curry paste, the same of 
 rice flour, and a salt-spoonful of saffron-powder 
 with half a pint of milk ; put the mixture in a pan 
 with a, table-spoonful of grated ham, a large onion 
 chopped, and a green capsicum cut small ; boil 
 till soft, then rub through a sieve. Put back into the 
 pan, with seasoning to taste, half a gill of cream, a 
 table-spoonful of lemon juice, and a little more hot 
 milk. Serve with any kind of cooked vegetables 
 or fish ; or re-heat cold fish in the sauce, which is 
 very appetising. 
 
 YACHT SAUCE (k la Norah). 
 
 Make a, little butter hot, slice a medium-sized 
 Spanish onion, and fry it brown, add a pint of 
 brown stock, a table-spoonful of brown roux, the 
 same measiire of Worcester sauce, of mushroom 
 ketchup, and of lemon juice, an ounce or two of 
 grated ham, a teaspoonful of soy, and salt and 
 pepper to taste. Boil until the onion is pulpy, 
 then sieve the sauce, reboil it, and use it for re- 
 heating cold fish, game, or meat. This is a good 
 sauce for serving with smoked salmon, dried 
 haddock, or eels. 
 
 YALE BOAT PIE (an American recipe). 
 
 Lay in a middling-sized dish three or four pounds 
 of steak from the under-cut of a round of beef, 
 fiaving seasoned it with pepper and salt. Have at 
 hand a couple of chickens, cut into pieces and 
 seasoned ; place them on the steak, and over them 
 one dozen and a half of fresh fat oysters without the 
 liquor. Add half a dozen fresh hard-boiled eggs, 
 and after damping the bottom of the dish with half 
 a pint of strong ale, cover the whole with fresh mush- 
 rooms, adding to these half a pound of glaze or 
 plain neat's-foot jelly ; lay over the dish a sub- 
 stantial paste, and bake in a brisk oven. This pie 
 is excellent for"'a picnic or water excursion. 
 
 YAM. 
 
 The yam is a slender herbaceous vine, having large 
 tuberous roots, which are much used as food in 
 Africa and the East and West Indies. They are 
 mealy, and though easy of digestion, are palatable, 
 and not inferior to any roots now in use, either for 
 deUcacy of flavour or nutriment. They are eaten 
 either roasted or boiled, and the flour is also made 
 into bread and puddings. There are many varieties 
 of the roots, some spreading out like fingers, 
 others twisted Uke a serpent ; others again are very 
 3r 
 
 small, scarcely weighing more than a pound, with a 
 whitish ash-coloured bark, whereas the bark is 
 usually black. The flesh of the yam is white or 
 purphsh, and viscid, but becomes farinaceous oi 
 mealy when cooked. 
 
 " A species of yam {Dioscorea Batatas), " says a 
 writer in " Chamber's Encyclopaedia," " has recently 
 been brought from the temperate parts of China, 
 where it appears to have been long in cultivation, 
 and is found to succeed well in France. It is hardy 
 enough to endure the climate even of Scotland 
 without injury, but the heat of the summer is not 
 sufficiently great and long-continued for its profit- 
 able growth, so that in general the plant merely 
 Uves, without producing a large tuber. The root 
 is of a very fine quaUty, and attains a very con- 
 siderable size. The stem requires the support of a 
 pole, round which it twines ; the leaves are more 
 elongated and acuminated than those of the West 
 Indian yams ; the root strikes perpendicularly down 
 into the ground, and forms its tuber often at a very 
 considerable depth, which is sometimes inconvenient 
 to the cultivator, but this is prevented by putting a 
 slate under it." 
 
 YAM PUDDING. 
 
 Take a white yam, and either boil or roast it ; 
 then pare off the skin, and pound the tuber very 
 fine with three-quarters of a pound of butter, half a 
 pound of sugar, a little mace, cinnamon, and twelve 
 eggs, leaving out half the whites ; beat the -whole 
 with a Uttle rose-water. Put in a little citron cut 
 small, and bake it in a moderate oven. 
 
 YAMS, AMERICAN. 
 
 Yams, when roasted or boiled, form % nutritious 
 and palatable article of food. They are exceUeut 
 prepared as follows. Cut them into slices half an 
 inch thick, and foruL these into rounds about the 
 size of the top of a tea-cup. Wash, drain, and dry 
 them well, put them into a well-buttered saucepan, 
 and season with a little salt and grated nutmeg. 
 Moisten with water, cover closely, and let them 
 simmer gently till done enough. Turn them over 
 frequently, that they may be equally and hghtly 
 coloured on both sides. Pile them upon a dish. ' 
 Pour round them white sauce, sweetened and 
 flavoured, and serve. Time to simmer the sUces, 
 about three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 YAMS, BAKED. 
 
 Choose small yams ; wash them, and cut a slice 
 off the whole length of one side, put it on again, 
 and bake the yam in a moderately hot oven. When 
 it is done, remove the shoe, and scrape the inside 
 out with a fork, add a little butter, pepper, and 
 salt, and beat it up with a fork. It can either be 
 served in a dish or put back and served in the 
 shell. 
 YANKEE CAKES. 
 
 Beat a cupful of butter to cream, stir into it an 
 equal quantity of sugar, and add a pinch of salt, 
 a flavouring of nutmeg or lemon, grated, two well- 
 whisked eggs, and a tea-spoonful of carbonate of 
 soda which has been dissolved in a cupful of sour 
 milk. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and stir 
 into the mixture as much flour as will make a, 
 stiff batter. Butter or grease a dripping-tin thickly. 
 Beat the cake mixtxire over the fire for a short time. 
 When it is hot, pour it at once into the tin, and 
 
YAN 
 
 1090 
 
 YEA 
 
 bake the cake in a well-heated oven. It will be 
 done in from half to three-quarters of an hour. 
 Probable cost, Is. 
 
 YANKEE PUDDING SAUCE, FOR PANCAKES 
 AND LIGHT PUDDINGS. 
 
 Beat a table-spoonful of fresh butter to cream, 
 and add a small tea-cupful of powdered white sugar, 
 a dessert-spoonful of sherry or brandy, and a little 
 grated nutmeg. Place the mixture on a dish, grate 
 a little orange or lemon-rind upon it, and serve. 
 
 YARMOUTH BLOATERS. 
 
 Cut oflE the head and tail, open the bloater down 
 the back, and lay it flat. Broil it on both sides 
 over a clear fire, and serve with a little fresh butter 
 and a captain's biscuit, which has been heated in 
 the oven. (See Bloateks.) 
 
 YEAST. 
 
 Yeast is a substance produced during the fer- 
 mentation of wine, beer, and vegetable juices ; it is 
 used to raise dough for bread and cakes, and to 
 make it light and puffy. The best yeast is that 
 taken from good brewer's ale, though it is generally 
 too bitter to use without preparation. This yeast, 
 however, cannot always be obtained, and German , 
 yeast is frequently used as a substitute. This yetist 
 is excellent when it can be procured fresh and good, 
 and is free from the bitter taste to which brewer's 
 yeast is liable ; it is frequently offered for sale when 
 unfit for use, especially in hot weather. When 
 neither good brewer's yeast nor fresh German yeast 
 can be procured, yeast made at home may be used 
 as a substitute ; and two or three recipes are given 
 for its preparation. It is scarcely so strong as 
 brewer's yeast, however, and therefore a larger 
 quantity of it will need to be used. Half a pint of 
 solid brewer's yeast will raise fourteen pounds of 
 flour. If the brewer's yeast is thin, a few spoonfuls 
 more will be needed. 
 YEAST {another way). 
 
 Boil a small handful of hops in a quart of water for 
 half an hour. Pour it boiling through a close sieve 
 or colander upon three-quarters of a pound of 
 white flour. Give it a stir, and let it stand till 
 new-milk-warm, then add a breakfast cupful of 
 yeast from the baker's ; stir again, and let it stand 
 near the fire for twenty-four hours. A pint of this 
 yeast makes twenty-one pounds of flour into bread. 
 By keeping a small quantity of this yeast in a 
 bottle, to use in making the next supply, one may 
 be quite independent of baker's or brewer's yeast. 
 This yeast will keep a fortnight if either bottled or 
 covered in a jar. 
 YEAST, BAKER'S. 
 
 Put two ounces of hops into a saucepan, and 
 pour over them one gallon of cold water. Bring 
 the liquor to the boil, and keep it boiling, stirring 
 well for one hour. Strain it, and mix with it two 
 pounds of malt. Cover, and leave it till it is the 
 heat of new milk. Stir into it briskly half a pint 
 of solid brewer's yeast, let it work for ten hours, 
 strain through a sieve, and it will be ready for use. 
 
 YEAST, BREAD WITHOUT. 
 
 " Some years since," says Miss Acton, in her 
 " Bread-book," " when unfermented bread was first 
 becoming known, I had it tried very successfully in 
 the following manner, and I have since been told 
 
 that an almost similar method of preparing it is 
 common in many parts both of England and Ireland, 
 where it is almost impossible to procure a constant 
 supply of yeast. Blend well together a tea-spoonful 
 of pounded sugar and fifty grains of the purest 
 carbonate of soda ; mix a salt-spoonful of salt 
 with a pound of flour, and rub the soda and sugar 
 through a hair sieve into it. Stir and mingle them 
 well, and make them quickly into a firm but not 
 hard dough with some buttermilk. Bake the loaf 
 well in a thoroughly-heated but not fierce oven. In 
 a brick or good iron oven a few minutes less 
 than an hour would be sufficient to bake a loaf of 
 ordinary weight. The butter-milk should be kept 
 till it is quite acid, but it must never be in the 
 slightest degree rancid or otherwise bad. All un- 
 fermented bread should be placed in the oven 
 directly it is made, or it will be heavy. For a large 
 baking allow rather less than an ounce of soda to 
 the gallon (seven pounds) of flour," 
 
 YEAST, BREWER'S, TO PREPARE FOR USE. 
 
 Taste the yeast, and if it is very bitter, pour over 
 it a considerable quantity of cold water. Let it 
 stand for twenty- four hours, then pour off the water, 
 when the yeast will be found at the bottom of the 
 vessel quite thick. Taste it again. If it still con- 
 tinues bitter, pour more water over it, and let it 
 stand an hour or two longer. Yeast may be kept 
 covered with cold water for several days. When 
 brewer's yeast does not appear sufficiently strong, 
 honey or brown sugar may be mixed with it, in the 
 proportion of a tea-spoonful to half a pint. Suf- 
 ficient : half a pint of solid brewer's yeast will raise 
 fourteen pounds of flour. If it is thin, a few spoon- 
 fuls more will be required. 
 
 YEAST CAKE. 
 
 Put three-quarters of a pound of flour into a 
 bowl, and mix with it a pinch of salt. Dissolve a 
 quarter of a pound of butter in a quarter of a pint of 
 hot milk. Let the mixture cool a little, and when 
 it is new-milkwarm, stir it into the flora-. Add a 
 small table-spoonful of fresh yeast and two well- 
 beaten eggs, and knead the prepaxation till it forms 
 a smooth dough. Make two or three gashes across 
 the surface with a knife, cover the bowl with a 
 cloth, and set the dough in a warm place to rise. 
 When sufficiently light, knead it again with six 
 ounces of currants picked and dried, four ounces of 
 powdered white sugar, one ounce of candied peel 
 cut into thin strips, and a little grated nutmeg. 
 Line a good-sized cake-tin with buttered paper, and 
 let the paper rise four or six inches above the tin. 
 Pour the mixture into it, let the cake rise half an 
 hour longer, and bake in a well-heated oven. 
 Protect the surface of the cake with a sheet of paper 
 whilst it is being baked. Time to bake the cake, 
 about an hour and a half. Probable cost, Is. 
 Sufficient to make a moderate-sized cake. 
 
 YEAST CAKE (another way). 
 
 Mix thoroughly in a bowl two pounds and a half 
 of flour, a pinch of salt, and half a pound of Demerara 
 sugar. Make a hollow in the centre of the flour, 
 but do not expose the bottom of the bowl. Pour 
 into this half a pint of lukewarm milk which has 
 been mixed with a table-spoonful of fresh yeast. 
 Stir as much flour into the milk as will make it of 
 the consistency of batter, sprinkle a little flour on 
 
YEA 
 
 1091 
 
 YEA 
 
 the surface, throw a cloth over the bowl, and leave 
 it in a warm place for an hoxir. Melt three-quarters 
 of a pound of fresh butter to oil, and add this to the 
 other ingredients, together with a pound and a 
 quarter of currants picked and dried, half a pound 
 of candied peel (lemon, orange, and citron together) 
 finely shredded, a quarter of an ounce of grated 
 nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce of powdered cinna- 
 mon, and a quarter of an ounce of ground allspice. 
 Knead the mixture thoroughly, and add as much 
 railk as will make a smooth, light dough. Line 
 three moderate-sized cake-tins with buttered paper, 
 three-parts fill them with the mixture, let them 
 rise before the fire for half an hour, and bake in a 
 well-heated oven. If Hked, this cake may be iced 
 after it has been baked. For instructions in icing 
 see the remarks on icing a cake towards the close of 
 the article on Wedding Cake, Excellent. Time 
 to bake the cakes, about an hour and a half. 
 Probable cost. Is. each. 
 
 VEAST CAKE, EXCELLENT, 
 
 Rub one pound of butter into six pounds of flour, 
 and add a tea-spoonful of salt. Make a hole in the 
 centre of the flour, without touching the bottom of 
 the bowl, and pour into this a little more than half 
 a pint of good, fresh, sweet yeast, mixed with half 
 a pint of lukewarm water. Stir into the yeast as 
 much flour from the sides as will make a batter, 
 sprinkle flour over the surface, and leave the mix- 
 ture for an hour, or till the yeast has risen in 
 bubbles through the covering 'of flour. Stir into 
 the yeast four weU-beaten eggs, add one pound of 
 fine raw sugar, and knead the whole thoroughly 
 with about half a pint of hot milk. Let this dough 
 stand to rise till it is very hght and the surface has 
 cracked. Knead it again with three pounds of 
 currants picked and dried, and half a pound of 
 candied lemon and orange mixed ; add also a little 
 grated nutmeg. Put the cake-mixture into two 
 large tins, well buttered, let it rise before the fire 
 for a quarter of an hour, and bake the cakes in a 
 moderately-heated oven. Time to bake the cakes, 
 three hours. Sufficient for two large cakes. Prob- 
 " le cost, 2s. lOd. each cake. 
 
 YEAST CAKES (William Gobbet's recipe). 
 
 To make yeast cakes — Provide seven pounds of 
 Indian corn meal, three and a half poimds of rye 
 flour, three ounces of hops, and one gallon of 
 boihng water. Separate the hops by the hand, 
 strew and boil them in the water for half an hoiir, 
 then strain the liquor into an earthen vessel, put 
 in the rye flour while hot, stirring quickly as the 
 fermentation commences. Next day, when it is 
 working, put in the Indian meal, stirring it well. 
 Before all the meal is added, it will become a stiff 
 dough. Knead it well, and roll it out as you would 
 a pie-crust, to the thickness of half an inch. Cut 
 it into cakes with a tumbler-glass, or anything else 
 that wiU serve the purpose ; place these cakes on a 
 board, and set them in the sun to dry. Turn them 
 every day, sheltering from wet, until they become 
 quite hard. Keep them in a bag or box perfectly 
 free from damp. When you bake, take a couple of 
 these yeast cakes, break them, and put them in hot 
 water over night. Let the vessel containing them 
 stand near the fire : they will dissolve ; use the 
 liquid for setting yoiiir sponge (as it is called), just 
 as you would the yeast of beer. White pea meal. 
 
 or barley- flour, will do as well as Indian meal. Mr. 
 Cobbett adds, that the very best bread he ever ate 
 was lightened with these cakes. 
 
 YEAST, CONNECTICUT (an American recipe). 
 
 Put a handful of hops in a bag, boil in two quarts 
 of water with five pared potatoes ; when done, sift 
 the potatoes, put with them in a pan one table- 
 spoonful of flour, half a cupful of sugar, half a cupful 
 of salt, and pour on this the boihng hop- water. Wben 
 sufficiently cool, add yeast enough to ferment it 
 well, then put it in a jar, cork tight, and keep in a 
 cool place. 
 
 YEAST DUMPLING (a German recipe). 
 
 Beat a quarter of a pound of butter to cream, add 
 four or five eggs to it ; when well-mixed, pour in a 
 cupful of milk and the same quantity of yeast, 
 sugar, grated lemon-peel, and pounded cinnamon, 
 with as much flour as will make the dough of a 
 proper consistency. Make it into dumplings, and 
 let them remain an hour in a warm place to rise ; 
 then cook them in boihng water. Serve with 
 melted butter and sugar or a wine sauce. 
 
 YEAST, ECONOMICAL PREPARATION OF. 
 
 Thicken two quarts of water with four ounces'^)! 
 fine flour, boil it for half an hour, then sweeten it 
 with three ounces of brown sugar ; when almost 
 cold, pour it, with four spoonfuls of baker's yeast, 
 into an earthen jug deep enough for the fermenta- 
 tion to go on without running over. Place it for a 
 day near the fire, then pour off the thin Hquor 
 from the top, shake the remainder, and close it'up 
 for use, first straining it through a sieve to preserve 
 it sweet. Set it in a cool cellar, or hang it some 
 depth in a well. Keep always some of this to make 
 the next quantity of yeast that is wanted. 
 
 YEAST, GERMAN. 
 
 This yeast in many distilleries forms an important 
 hy-product of the manufactory, and is collected 
 and sold under the name of dry" yeast for the use 
 of the private brewer and baker. . When this is 
 done, the process adopted is nearly as follows. 
 Crushed rye is mashed with the proper quantity of 
 barley and malt, and the wort, when made, cooled to 
 the proper temperature. For every hundred pounds 
 of the crushed grain there are now added half a 
 pound of carbonate of soda and six ounces of oil of 
 vitriol (sulphuric acid) diluted with much water, 
 and the wort is then brought into fermentation by 
 the addition of yeast. From the strongly ferment- 
 ing hquid the yeast is skimmed off and strained 
 through a hair sieve into cold water, through which 
 it is allowed to settle. It is afterwards washed 
 with one or two waters, and finally pressed in 
 cloth bags till it has the consistency of dough. It 
 has a pleasant, fruity smell, and in a cool place may 
 be kept for two or three weeks. It then passes into 
 a putrefying decomposition, acquires the odour of 
 decaying cheese, and has the property of changing 
 sugar into lactic acid instead of into alcohol 
 as before. A hundred pounds of crushed grain will 
 yield six to eight pounds of the pressed yeast. It 
 is made largely at Rotterdam, and is imported 
 thence to this country through Hull. Gferman 
 yeast is excellent when it can be procured fresh, 
 but this is rather a difficulty. After being pur- 
 chased it should be taken out of the paper as soon 
 as possible, and laid in a cool place till wanted. An 
 
YEA 
 
 1092 
 
 VEA 
 
 ounce of German yeast will raise a quartern or 
 half a gallon, or three pounds and a half of flour. 
 
 VEAST, T40ME-MADK. 
 
 No. 1. Boil two ounces of best Jiops in two 
 quarts of water for half an hour. Strain the hquor, 
 and let it cool down to the heat of new milk. Put 
 into it a small handful of salt and half a pound of 
 moist sugar. Beat up a poijnd of fine flour with 
 some of the liquor, and mix a'B well together. Two 
 days afterwards add three pounds of potatoes which 
 have been boiled and miished. Let the prepara- 
 tion stand for twenty -four hours, then strain it, and 
 bottle for use, but do not cork it till it has ceased 
 working. Whilst making it, stir frequently and 
 keep it near the fire. Before using, shake the 
 bottle well. It will keep in a cool place for two 
 months. Yeast made from this recipe is excellent, 
 but it must be prepared with great care. Bread 
 made from it needs to rise longer, both in the sponge 
 and in the dough, than when fresh brewer's yeast 
 is used. No. 2. Put two gallons of cold water into 
 a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of moist sugar 
 and one ounce of salt. Put it on the fire, and as it 
 heats, stir in with it one pound of flour. liet it boil 
 for an hour. Pour it out, and when milk-warm 
 bottle it closely. It will be fit for use in twenty- 
 four hours. Half a pint of this yeast will make 
 nine pounds of bread. No. 3. Put a handful of 
 hops into a quart of water, either hot or cold ; let 
 them boil for twenty minutes. Mix in a bowl two 
 table-spoonfuls of flour with one table-spoonful 
 of salt and one of moist sugar. Pour the boiling 
 hquor through a sieve upon the mixture, and stir 
 briskly. When it is almost cold, stir into it a tea- 
 cupful of good brewer's yeast. Let it stand in a 
 cool place for twenty-four hours or more, and bottle 
 for use. In winter-time this yeast should be kept 
 in a warm place. It should be stirred before being 
 used. It should stand to sponge ail night, and will 
 then require to rise about two hours after being 
 kneaded. When a fresh supply is to be made, a pint 
 of this preparation may be used instead of a tea- 
 cupful of fresh yeast. A large tea-cupful of this 
 yeast will raise fourteen pounds of fiour. 
 
 YEAST, KIRKLEATHAM. 
 
 Boil an ounce of hops in two quarts of water for 
 twenty minutes. Strain the liquor, and mix with it 
 a quarter of a pound of flour and a little less than a 
 quarter of a pint of fresh yeast. Bottle the prepara- 
 tion, and tie the cork down. When the bread is to 
 be made, add mashed potatoes, according to the 
 quantity of yeast required. For a peck of flour 
 boil and mash three pounds of potatoes, and mix 
 with them half a pound of flour and half a pint of 
 the yeast. Let the mixture stand all day. Mix it 
 with the flour, and let it stand to sponge all 
 night ; knead and bake next day. Time, twenty 
 minutes to boil the hops in the water. Sufficient, 
 half a pint for about a peck of flour. 
 
 YEAST, PATENT. 
 
 " To make a yeast gallon of this composition — 
 such yeast gallon containing eight beer quarts — 
 boil in common water eight pounds of potatoes as 
 for eating. Bruise them perfectly smooth, and 
 mix with them, while warm, two ounces of fine 
 honey and one beer quart of common yeast. For 
 making bread, mix three beer pints of the above 
 
 composition with a bushel of flour, using warm 
 wafer in making the bread. The water should be 
 warmer in winter than in summer, and the com- 
 position should be used a few hours after it is 
 made. As soon as the sponge, or the mixture of 
 the composition with the flour, begins to fall the 
 flrst time, the bread should be made and put into 
 the oven." This recipe is copied from the original 
 specification in the patent office. 
 
 YEAST, POTATO. 
 
 Boil any quantity of good potatoes in their jackets 
 When done enough, peel, weigh, and mash them 
 quickly, and-with each pound mix a quart of boiling 
 water. Rub the mixture through a hair sieve, and 
 add an ounce of honey or brown sugar to each pound 
 of potatoes. Boil the mixture tiU it is as thick as 
 batter ; pour it out, and when lukewarm, stir into it 
 a large table-spoonful of soUd yeast to each quart of 
 water. Cover the mixture with a cloth ; it will be 
 ready for use in twenty-four hours. Double the 
 quantity of this yeast as of beer yeast will be needed. 
 The next time yeast has to be made, use a bottle 
 of this preparation (first pouring off the thin liquid 
 from the top) instead of fresh yeast. Fresh 
 yeast will, however, be required every two months. 
 
 YEAST, POTATO (another way). 
 
 Boil potatoes of the mealy sort till they are 
 thoroughly soft. Skin and mash them very smooth, 
 and put as much hot water on them as will make 
 a mash of the consistency of common beer yeast, 
 but not thicker. Add to every pound of potatoes 
 two ounces of treacle, and when just warm, stir 
 in for every pound of potatoes two large spoonfuls 
 of yeast. Keep it warm till it has done fermenting, 
 and in twenty-four hours it, will be fit for use. A 
 pound of potatoes will make nearly a quart of yeast, 
 which has been found to answer the purpose so well, 
 as to render indistinguishable the bread made with 
 it from bread made with brewer's yeast. 
 
 ^ VEAST, PRESERVED. 
 
 When yeast is plentiful, take a quantity and work 
 it well with a whisk until it becomes thin ; then 
 procure a large wooden dish or platter, clean and 
 dry, and with a soft brush lay a thin layer of yeast 
 on the di§h, and turn the top downwards to keep 
 out the dust, but not the air ; this is to dry it. 
 When the first coat is dry, lay on another, and let 
 that dry, and so continue till the quantity is 
 sufficient ; by this means it may soon be made 
 two or three inches thick, when it may be preserved 
 in dry tin canisters or stoppered bottles for a long 
 time. When used for baking, cut a piece off. and 
 dissolve it in warm water, when it will be fit for use. 
 
 ^YEAST, PRESERVED (another way). 
 
 Take a close canvas bag, fill it with yeast, then 
 press out the water and make the yeast into 
 cakes. " I have tasted bread," says one writer, 
 " made with yeast preserved in this manner, and it 
 has been excellent. The mode of using it is to 
 dilute it with warm water, to which a little sugar 
 fcind flour are added." 
 
 YEAST, PRESERVED (another way). 
 
 Whisk the yeast to a froth, and then with a paint- 
 brush lay it on writing paper ; continue coating 
 the paper every time it dries, until a cake is formed, 
 then divide it into squares with a knife. 
 
YEA 
 
 1093 
 
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 YEAST WREATHS. 
 
 Set a pound and a half of fine flour to warm in a 
 pan. Mix an ounce and a half of fresh dried yeast, 
 or two large table-spoonfuls of brewer's yeast, with 
 a cupful of lukewarm milk ; stir this in the centre 
 of the dough to a batter ; cover, and leave it to 
 rise. When it is light, add half a pound of butter 
 beaten to a cream, three eggs, three ounces of 
 sifted sugar, and a little salt. Work all to a smooth 
 light dough. Divide it into six parts. Roll them 
 on the paste-board into long bars ; plait two twists 
 of these, lay them in rings on a buttered tin, making 
 the ends of each ring join. Set them in a warm 
 place to rise, and, when light, brush them over 
 with egg. Sprinkle chopped almonds and coarsely- 
 powdered sugar oyer, and bake them to a nice yellow 
 colour in a moderate oven. 
 
 YELLOW COLOURING. 
 
 Yellow colouring for the ornamentation of pastry 
 may be prepared by placing an ounce of hay- 
 saffron in a sugar pan with a gill and a half of water, 
 a small quantity of alum, and half an ounce of 
 sugar. Set the pan on the fire, let the liquid boil 
 for ten minutes, then pass it through a napkin. 
 
 YELLOW PICKLE. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of brown mustard seed, 
 two ounces of long pepper, two ounces of black 
 pepper, two ounces of garUc, one ounce of turmeric, 
 a quarter of an ounce of mace, three roots of horse- 
 radish, and half a pound of salt. Dry these in- 
 gredients thoroughly, and pour over them a gallon 
 of cold vinegar. Procure a large head of cauliflower, 
 two cabbages, six large carrots, and a quart of 
 French beans. Cut the vegetables into small pieces, 
 Strew salt over them, and let them stand for twenty- 
 four horn's. Drain them on cloths, and dry them 
 on hair sieves in the sun, or near the fire, for twelve 
 days. Put with them a quart of small onions, and 
 let them dry two days longer. Put them into a 
 large jar, with the vinegar, and let the pickle stand 
 near the fire or in a warm place. It must not, 
 however, be made hotter than new milk. At the 
 end of ten days it will be ready for use. If it is 
 too thick, a little boiling vinegar may be added. 
 Time, three to four weeks. 
 
 YEOMANGE. 
 
 Soak one ounce of leaf gelatine, add the rind of 
 a lemon, boil till the gelatine is dissolved. Remove 
 the pan from the fire, let the contents cool, then add 
 the beaten yolks of five eggs, half a pint of sherry, 
 the juice of the lemon, and two ounces of sugar. Mix 
 all well together, make the custard hot over the fire, 
 but do not let it boil Strain it through muslin, and 
 pour it into a damp mould. Put in a cold place to set. 
 
 YORK HAM. 
 
 Of English hams, the York and the Westmorland 
 kinds are perhaps the best. If they are only three 
 or four months old, they do not need to soak very 
 long, but if a year old or more, they should be soaked 
 for twenty -four hours before being cooked. A ham 
 is excellent when nicely boiled, but better when 
 baked. 
 
 YORK HAMi TO BOIL. 
 
 Put the ham to soak in cold water for one or two 
 days, according to its size and age. Place it in a 
 stewpan with fresh water to cover it. Let it boil. 
 
 and skim it. Add a carrot, an onion, a head of 
 celery, and a bouquet garni. Boil the ham for as 
 many quarter-hours as its weight is in pounds. 
 When done, Uft the saucepan from the fire, and let 
 the ham cool in its Uquor. Then take it out and 
 remove the small bone of the leg, which should 
 easily leave the flesh if it is well cooked. Keep the 
 skin uppermost, so that the gravy can moisten the 
 flesh, and not the top fat. Next day trim the 
 ham neatly, remove the skin and the small bone of 
 the chum^ end. JEhen.turn it ov6t and pass the 
 finger between ~the-«iifr and the fat, and pull the 
 skin off. -Dust oyer with %rejtd' raspings or glaze 
 with, aspic;- -Sotw with a'- -paper frill round the 
 kniickJe-bone. > 
 
 YORK HAM, 'WITH CHAMPAGNE. 
 
 Cook a ham as directed in Yokk Ham, To Boil. 
 When three-parts done, remove the skin and place 
 the ham in a long stewpan. Moisten with stock 
 and half a bottle of dry champagne. Let this boil, 
 then put on the Ud of the stewpan, and set it in a 
 moderately hot oven to finish cooking the ham, 
 basting it often. Ten minutes before serving take 
 the ham from the gravy,' strain it, skim off all the 
 fat, and add a Uttle glaze to the hquor ; reduce 
 this quickly until thick enough. Garnish the ham 
 with vegetables, such as peas, spinach, etc., and 
 serve the sauce separately. 
 
 YORK HAM, W14-H MADEIRA (HOT). 
 
 Cook a ham aseixplained in York Ham, To Boil. 
 When it is done'let^it remain for twenty minutes 
 in its liquor before serving. Then place it on a 
 dish, skin it, trim it neatly, and dust a httie sugar 
 over it. Put a glass of Madeira in the dish and one 
 of veal stock or clear gravy. Put the ham in a slow 
 oven, and when it is brown keep basting it with the 
 Madeira-gravy ; strain the gravy, skim off the fat, 
 and add a piece of demi-glaze. Garnish the ham 
 with various vegetables, and serve the sauce 
 
 YORKSHIRE BISCUITS. 
 
 For these old-fashioned favourites the follow- 
 ing ingredients are required. T\fo pounds of 
 flour, two and a half ounces of butter, two and 
 a half ounces of sugar, one egg, Half a pint of 
 milk, and a pinch of carbonate of ammonia. 
 The milk should be warmed and the hutter 
 dissolved in it, then added to the other ingre- 
 dients. The ammonia should be sifted with the 
 flour. Roll out the paste a quarter of an inch 
 thick, and cut it into fingers an inch wide and three 
 long. Brush over with egg, and bake in a 
 moderate oven. Probable cost, lOd. 
 
 YORKSHIRE BLACK PUDDINGS. 
 
 Crumble a quarter of a pound of stale bread, 
 pour boiling milk over it to cover it, and let 
 it remain until it has absorbed the milk. Soak 
 a pint -of coarse oatmeal, and boil it for half 
 an hour in as much ipiilk as will entirely 
 cover it. Mix it with the soaked stale bread, 
 and add a pint of blood and half a, pint of 
 good cream, together with half a pound of 
 finely-shredded suet, two table-spoonfuls of 
 chopped parsley, a dessert-spoonful of chop- 
 ped thyme, and the same quantity of mar- 
 joram, sage, and pennyroyal, a leek, a small 
 onion, a dessert-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful 
 of black pepper, six powdered cloves, and a 
 
YOR 
 
 1094 
 
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 pinch of grated nutmeg, ground ginger, and 
 powdered allspice. Mix the ingredients thor- 
 oughly, and add four well-beaten eggs. Have 
 ready one pound of the inner fat of the pig cut 
 into dide. Cleanse the skins thoroughly. Half 
 fill them, and put in the fat amongst the mince. 
 Tie the stins in links, prick them with a fork, 
 and boil till done enough. Let them cool, and 
 hang them in a cool situation till wanted. Broil 
 them lightly over a clear fire, and serve on a 
 napkin. Time to boil the puddings, about an 
 hour. 
 
 YORKSHIRE BROWN BREAD. 
 
 Mix three pounds of best flour with one pound 
 of coarse broad bran. A pound of rye flour 
 may also be added, if approved. Make a hollow 
 in the centre of the flour, but do not quite 
 touch the bottom of the bowl, and sprinkle a 
 little salt round the edge of the flour. Mix an 
 ounce of fresh German yeast smoothly with a 
 little more than half a pint of tepid water. 
 Pour a cupful of tepid water into the hole in 
 the flour, mix with it as much flour from the 
 sides as will make a thin batter, and add the 
 yeast. Sprinkle flour over the top, throw a 
 cloth over the bowl, and let it stand near the 
 fire till the yeast rises in bubbles through the 
 flour on the surface. Knead the bread thor- 
 oughly, adding lukewarm water as required, 
 and continue to knead without ceasing till it 
 does not ■stick to the fingers and the sides of the 
 bowl. Cut it across with a knife, throw a cloth 
 over it, and let it stand near the fire or in a 
 warm place until it is well risen and the surface 
 is slightly cracked. Grease some tins, three- 
 parts fill them with the dough, let the loaves 
 rise in the tins for a few minutes, prick them 
 with a fork, and bake in a moderate oven. If 
 they are put into a brisk oven, the bread will 
 not be baked through. Brown loaves require 
 more water and longer baking than white bread. 
 If liked, a smaller proportion of bran may be 
 used with the flour; or rye flour only may be 
 used. 
 
 YORKSHIRE FLAT CAKE (sometimes called Oven 
 Cake). 
 When bread is made at home, and the dough 
 is being formed into loaves, take a piece the 
 size of half a loaf. Form it into a ball, and 
 with the rolling-pin roll it into a large round 
 cake, from eight to twelve inches in diameter 
 and three-quarters of an inch thick. Put it on 
 a buttered baking-tin, prick it with a fork, let 
 it rise before the fire for about ten minutes, 
 and bake in a brisk oven. When firm, it is 
 done enough. Split it in halves, butter it 
 well, and serve hot or cold. Time to bake 
 the cake, about three-quarters of an hour. 
 Probable cost, 2d. Sufficient for three or four 
 persons. 
 
 YORKSHIRE FRITTERS. 
 
 Mix two ounces of powdered sugar, a pinch 
 of salt, and a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, 
 with half a pound of flour. Add a table-spoon- 
 ful of fresh yeast, or half an ounce of German 
 yeast, and half a pint of fresh milk, and beat 
 the whole to a thick batter. Stir into it two 
 ounces of currants picked and dried, throw a 
 cloth over the bowl, and put it before the fire 
 or in a warm place to rise. At the end of half 
 
 an hour, or when well risen, stir in three well- 
 beaten eggs. Make a little butter or dripjiing 
 hot in a frying-pan, drop the batter into it a 
 spoonful at a time, and keep the fritters apart. 
 When they are brown upon one side, turn them 
 upon the other ; drain them, serve on a napkin, 
 and sift powdered white sugar thickly over 
 them. Time to fry the fritters, three or four 
 minutes. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for three 
 or four persons. 
 
 YORKSHIRE FRUMENTY (a Christmas supper 
 dish). 
 Put a pint of good wheat into a bowl, pour 
 cold water over it, and let it soak for twelve 
 hours or more. Cover with a plate, put it in 
 the oven, and let it simmer gently till tender. 
 Stir occasionally to keep it from sticking to the 
 bottom of the dish. Take it out and let it get 
 cold; it ought to be quite stiff. When wanted, 
 stir about a pint of the boiled wheat into a 
 quart of boiling milk, sweeten the mixture, and 
 flavour with grated nutmeg or powdered cin- 
 namon. Let it boil, serve in a soup tureen, 
 and hand it round in soup plates. Time to sim- 
 mer the wheat, about three hours. Probable 
 cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. 
 
 YORKSHIRE GIRDLE CAKES. 
 
 Take a pound and a half of flour and two 
 ounces of butter, rub well together 'with a 
 little salt and enough milk to make a stiff 
 dough. Add a tea-spoonful of baking-powder; 
 knead it well, and roll out half an inch thick. 
 Put it on the girdle, which must be quite hot. 
 Move it about constantly to see when the uader 
 side is done; then turn it and bake the other 
 side. When done, cut it into three-cornered 
 pieces; split open, and butter them. 
 
 YORKSHIRE HARE CAKE. 
 
 Procure a hare, three-quarters of a pound of 
 lean ham, four hard-boiled eggs, and a little 
 gravy jelly. Pick the flesh from the bones in 
 pieces as large as possible, divide them into neat 
 coUops, about a quarter of an inch thick, and 
 put these aside in a covered dish till wanted. 
 Put the bones and trimmings of the hare into 
 a saucepan, with a calf's foot, a carrot, an onion 
 stuck with two cloves, a bay-leaf, a few sticks 
 of celery, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, 
 and half a dozen peppercorns. Pour upon the 
 ingredients as much stock or water as will cover 
 them, and let them simmer gently till the g;ravy 
 is strong and pleasantly flavoured. If the 
 liquor is not so strong that it will jelly when 
 cold, two ounces or more of gelatine may be 
 dissolved in it. Free the jelly entirely from 
 fat; spreati a thin layer of it at the bottom 
 of an earthen potting-pan, and fill the pan 
 with alternate layers of the collops of hare, 
 thin slices of ham, the hard-boiled eggs cut 
 into slices, and the gravy jelly. Season each 
 layer with a slight sprinkling of herbs and 
 spices (see Aromatic Seasoning of Hebbs and 
 Spices). When the whole of the ingredients 
 are used, cover the pan with a coarse paste of 
 flour and water, put it in the oven in a dripping- 
 tin, three-parts filled with boiling water, and 
 keep the water boiling round it till the contents 
 are done enough. Take the pan out of the oven 
 and leave it in a cold place till the next day. 
 Turn it out upon a dish, garnish with parsley, 
 
YOR 
 
 1093 
 
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 and serve as a luncheon, breakfast, or supper 
 dish. Time to hake the cake, one hour and a 
 q^uarter to one hour and three-quarters, accord- 
 ing to the size of the hare. Probable cost of 
 hare, 3s. 6d. to 6s. 6d. each. Sufficient for ten or 
 twelve persons. 
 
 YORKSHIRE PIE. 
 
 A true Yorkshire pie, such as constitutes a 
 standing dish during the Christmas festivities 
 at the hospitable board of a Yorkshire squire, 
 is simply a raised pie filled with poultry and 
 game of different kinds, put one inside the other 
 or side by side. These pies are sometimes 
 made of a large size; and it is recorded that 
 one of them, which was sent from Sheffield in 
 1832 as a present to the then Lord Chancellor 
 Brougham, broke down on account of its weight. 
 Yorkshire pies require both skill and patience 
 in their manufacture. They are not common, 
 and are becoming less and less so ; neverthe- 
 less, when successfully made they form a most 
 excellent dish, and one sure to be highly appre- 
 ciated. Turkey, pheasants, ducks, fowls, 
 grouse, snipes, and tongue; any or all of these 
 may enter into their composition. Whatever 
 birds are used should be boned and partially 
 stewed before being put into the pie : the 
 smallest of them should be filled with good, 
 highly-seasoned veal forcemeat ; a layer of 
 forcemeat should be placed at the bottom of 
 the pie, and all the vacant places filled with 
 the same. A recipe is here given for making 
 a moderate-sized pie. Bone a fowl and a goose ; 
 fill the fowl with good veal forcemeat, truss 
 it, and sew it up. 'fi:uss the goose, and put the 
 two side by side in a stewpan which will just 
 hold them. Pour over them as much stock as 
 will covCT them, and let them simmer gently 
 for half an hour. Take them up, put the fowl 
 inside the goose, truss the latter, and sew it 
 up. Line a pie-mould with some pastry, such 
 as is used for making raised pies, rolled out to 
 a good thickness. Cover the bottom with a 
 layer of forcemeat, lay the goose upon it, pour 
 a little of the liquor in which it was stewed over 
 it, and place round it' slices of pigeons, boned 
 hare, t6ngue, etc. Fill the vacant places with 
 forcemeat, and when the meat is closely packed 
 in the crust put over it a layer of clarified 
 butter. Place the pastry cover on the top, 
 brush over with egg, ornament it, bind several 
 folds of buttered paper round it, and bake in 
 a well-heated oven. Make a little strong jelly 
 by boiling the bones and trimmings with 
 seasoning and spices, and pour this into the 
 pie after it is baked. When the pie is to be 
 served, place it on a dish covered with a nap- 
 kin, remove the cover whole, and cut the meat 
 into thin slices. The pastry of a pie like this is 
 not made to be eaten, but is simply intended 
 as a case in which to preserve and serve the 
 meat. When a skewer will pierce easily to the 
 bottom of the pie in the centre it is done 
 enough. Time to bake the pie, four hours or 
 more. 
 YORKSHIRE PLOUGHMAN'S SALAD. 
 
 Wash some lettuces, and dry them perfectly. 
 Shred them finely, and toss them lightly in a 
 sauce made as follows. Mix thoroughly a salt- 
 spoonful of salt with an equal quantity of 
 
 pepper, two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and 
 one of treacle. Add the sauce to the salad at 
 the moment of serving. A bunch of chives or a 
 handful of young onions may be introduced or 
 not. 
 
 YORKSHIRE PUDDING, 
 
 Allow one egg, and milk to make a tolerably 
 stiff batter, to two table-spoonfuls of flour. 
 This will make a very good pudding, though 
 a better and lighter one may be made by using 
 two eggs to three table-spoonfuls of flour, or 
 even one egg to each table-spoonful of flour. 
 Put as much flour as will be required into a 
 bowl, and add a pinch of salt. Stir in gradu- 
 ally as much milk as will make a stiff batter, 
 and beat the mixture vigorously till it is per- 
 fectly smooth and light. Whisk the eggs sepa- 
 rately, and add them to the batter. Place the 
 pudding-tin under the roasting joint, and leave 
 it till it is thoroughly hot and well greased with 
 the drippings from the joint. Pour the batter 
 into it to the thickness of the third of an inch, 
 and bake the pudding before the fire, under the 
 joint. Turn the pan round and round, that the 
 pudding may be equally and lightly browned 
 on every side. Cut it into three-inch squares; 
 take these up separately with a slioer, place them 
 on a separate dish which has been made very 
 hot, and send them immediately to table, to 
 be eaten with the meat and the gravy. If the 
 pudding is to be baked under the roast, the latter 
 may be placed on a stand in the dripping-tin; 
 the pudding, however, will not be so light as 
 if baked before the fire. Out of Yorkshire, 
 what is called Yorkshire pudding is made an 
 inch thick or more, and after it is browned 
 upon one side it is cut into squares and turned 
 over, that it may be browned upon the other. 
 This is quite a different thing from the true 
 Yorkshire pudding, which is made very thin, 
 and browned on the uppermost side only. The 
 batter for this pudding will be much better 
 if made two, three, or even four hours before 
 it is wanted. Cold Yorkshire pudding may be 
 heated in a Dutch oven before the fire. Time to 
 bake the pudding, varying with the kind of 
 range used : with an old-fashioned range, which 
 throws out a good deal of heat in front, the 
 pudding will be baked in from three-quarters 
 to one hour; when a kitchener is used, the 
 pudding will need to be finished off in the oven. 
 It must not, however, be allowed to get dry. 
 If made thick, and browned on both sides, the 
 pudding will need at least an hour and a half! 
 Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient, a pudding made 
 with four table-spoonfuls of flour, three eggs, 
 a pinch of salt, and a pint of milk, for five or 
 six persons. 
 YORKSHIRE PUDDING, BEEF *'WITH. 
 
 {See Beef, Yobkbhiee Pudding fob.) 
 YORKSHIRE PUNCH. 
 
 Rub some large lumps of sugar upon four 
 lemons and one Seville orange until all the 
 yellow part is taken off. Weigh the sugar, and 
 add as much more as will make up its weight 
 to a pound and a quarter. Put the sugar into 
 a bowl, and strain over it the juice of six 
 lemons and three Seville oranges. Add a pint 
 of liquid calf's foot jelly, and stir in gradually 
 two quarts of boiling water. Mix the ingre- 
 
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 1096 
 
 YUL 
 
 dicnts thorou|;hly, and put the bowl containing 
 them by the side of the fire for twenty minutes. 
 Strain the mixture, put with it a bottle of 
 orange or lemon shrub, and add half a pint of 
 rum and half a pint of brandy. If the trouble 
 of rubbing the sugar upon the lemons and 
 orange is objected to, the sugar may be rubbed 
 upon a portion of the lemon, and the thin rind 
 of the rest soaked in the jelly and the strained 
 juice until the flavour is extracted. The flavour 
 of the punch thus made will not quite equal 
 that made by rubbing the sugar on the lemon. 
 
 YORKSHIRE SPICE CAKE (sometimes called Yule 
 Cake). 
 These cakes are made in large quantities in 
 Yorkshire families at Christmas time. They 
 are freely offered to strangers and presented to 
 friends, and are frequently eaten with cheese 
 instead of bread. Put eigfet pounds of flour 
 into a bowl, and mix a table-spoonful of 
 salt with it; then rub into it a pound and 
 a half of butter, and two pounds of lard. 
 Scoop a hole in the centre of the paste with- 
 out touching the bottom, and pour in half 
 a pint of fresh sweet brewer's yeast mixed with 
 water. Stir flour into the yeast till it is like 
 batter, sprinkle flour over the top, and set the 
 bowl in a warm place. When the yeast rises 
 in bubbles through the flour, knead the dough 
 thoroughly as for common bread, and let it 
 rise till it is light. When risen, work in with 
 it six pounds of currants, picked and dried 
 thoroughly, three pounds of raw sugar, some 
 grated rilitmeg, and eight well-beaten eggs. 
 Divide it into loaves of various sizes, put these 
 into tins which they will ialf fill, lined with 
 buttered paper, and bake the cakes in a well- 
 heated oven. The yeast must on no account 
 be bitter. Time to bake the cakes, according to 
 size. Probable cost, lOd. per pound. 
 
 YORKSHIRE TEA-CAKES. 
 
 A hospitable Yorkshire housewife would con- 
 sider her tea-table was barely spread it it were 
 not liberally supplied with these delicious cakes, 
 constant relays of which should be served 
 steaming hot. Put two pounds of good flour 
 into a bowl ; scoop a hole in the centre, but 
 do not touch the bottom of the bowl, and pour 
 into the hollow thus made a little less than 
 an ounce of German yeast which has been dis- 
 solved in a tea-cupful of lukewarm milk. Add 
 to this yeast two well-beaten eggs and six 
 ounces of butter which has been dissolved in 
 half a tea-cupful of hot water. The water, 
 when added to the batter, ought to be a little 
 more than new-milk- warm. Draw a little of 
 the flour from the side of the bowl into the 
 liquor till it is of the consistency of very thick 
 cream, sprinkle a little flour upon it to cover 
 the surface, and leave it in a warm place to 
 rise. In about an hour, when the bubbles of 
 yeast show themselves through the flour, knead 
 the dough thoroughly, adding as much more 
 lukewarm milk as is necessary for the purpose. 
 The tea-cakes will require about a pint of milk 
 altogether. Gash the surface of the dough two 
 or three times across with a knife, throw a 
 warm towel over it, and leave it to rise. When 
 it is very li|;ht (that is, when the surface cracks, 
 which it will do in an hour or more), divide 
 
 it into ten portions of equal size. Boll these 
 lightly into cakes four inches in diameter, alid 
 put them on a baking-tin. Prick them with a 
 fork and let them rise before the fire for ten 
 minutes. Put them into a moderately-heated 
 oven; they must not be baked hard. When 
 they are to be served, either cut them into 
 halves, toast them, and butter liberally, or 
 make them hot in the oven, divide them, and 
 butter them. Serve very hot. These tea-cakes 
 will be very good if made with four ounces of 
 butter instead of six, jind if one egg only is 
 used. They may be buttered and served cold, 
 but are best hot. Time to bake the tea-cakes, 
 a quarter to half an hour. Probable cost, Id. 
 each. Sufficient for ten cakes. A few currants 
 may be added if liked. 
 
 YORKSHIRE VEAL CAKE. 
 
 Take one pound and a half of lean veal from 
 the fillet, three-quarters of a pound of thinly- 
 cut ham, and four eggs. Boil the eggs till 
 they are hard and let them get cold, then cut 
 the veal into neat pieces. Take about half a 
 pint of clear, highly-seasoned veal gravy, made 
 so strong that it will jelly firmly when cold. 
 Put a layer of this at the bottom of an earthen 
 potting-pan, and fill the dish with successive 
 layers of the veal, the ham, the hard-boiled 
 eggs cut into slices, and the jellied gravy. 
 Season each layer lightly with a little pepper, 
 minced parsley, and shallot, and salt, if re- 
 quired; this will depend upon the saltness of 
 the bacon. Cover the potting-pan with a coarse 
 stiff paste of flour and water, put it in the oven, 
 in a dripping-tin three-parts filled with boiling 
 water, and add more water .in place of that 
 which boils away, till the veal cake is done 
 enough. Let the cake get cold, turn it whole 
 upon a dish, and garnish with parsley. The 
 jellied gravy may be made by boiling the bones 
 and trimmings of the veal in water, with a cow- 
 heel and suitable seasonings, and clarifying the 
 liquor with white of egg. It should form a stiff 
 jelly when cold. Time to bake the cake, one 
 hour and a quarter. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. 
 Sufficient for a breakfast or luncheon dish. 
 
 YOUNG OXFORD SAUSAGES. 
 
 Take one pound of young pork, fat and lean, 
 without skin or gristle, and one pound of beef 
 suet, chopped fine together ; put in half a pound 
 of grated bread, half the peel of a lemon 
 shredded, a nutmeg, grated, six sage-leaves 
 chopped fine, a tea-spoonful of pepper, and two 
 of salt, some thyme, savory, and marjoram, 
 shredded finely. Mix well together, and keep 
 the preparation, pressed close down, in a pan 
 till used. Boll the meat out to the size and 
 shape of common sausages, and fry them in 
 fresh butter of a fine brown, or broil them 
 over a clear fire, and send them to table hot. 
 
 YULE CAKE. 
 
 {See YoBKSHiBE Spice Cake.) 
 
 YULE DUMPLINGS. 
 
 Cut two small loaves of bread, made with 
 milk, into slices, and pour over them a sufficient 
 quantity of cold milk to render them soft; 
 having gently pressed the bread, then add to 
 it the following : Two ounces of the small and 
 one ounce of the large raisins, picked and 
 
YUL 
 
 1097 
 
 ZEP 
 
 ■washed, some blanched and finely-bruised or 
 grated bitter almonds, grated lemon-peel, mace, 
 and sugar, a piece of rubbed butter, and two or 
 three eggs. AH these ingredients are to be well 
 mixed together with two or three spoonfhls of 
 flour, and formed into a consistent mass of 
 dough, which is to be divided by a spoon into 
 dumpling^ of the proper size ; these are to be 
 plunged into boiling water, and when thor- 
 oughly done taken out with a skimming-spoon, 
 and served up with cream sauce poured over 
 them. These "dumplings furnish a beautiful 
 supper dish. 
 
 YULE PUDDING. 
 
 A quarter of a pound of butter; ten ounces 
 of loaf sugar; the juice of two large lemons, 
 with the rinds grated; one ounce of isinglass — 
 the quantity, after it is dissolved^ should be a 
 large tea-cupful ; and two spoonfuls of fine flour 
 are required. Put these ingredients into a stew- 
 pan, stir over a slow fire till the preparation 
 nearly boils, then throw it into a basin and stir 
 till almost cold; next add eight eggs, four 
 whites, and half a wine-glass of brandy. A 
 puff-paste is to be put entirely over a dish, and 
 the pudding is to be baked half an hour. 
 
 ZABAJONE. 
 
 This is a kind of syllabub, made with Marsala 
 or maraschino, or Marsala and yellow Char- 
 treuse. Reckon the quantities as follows. For 
 each person take the yolks of three eggs, a tea- 
 spoonful of castor sugar to each egg, and a wine- 
 glassful of wine and liqueur mixed. Whip up 
 the yolks of the eggs with the sugar, then 
 gradually add the wine, etc. Put this in a 
 bain-marie, and stir until it has thickened to 
 the consistency of a custard. Take care, how- 
 ever, that it does not boil. Serve hot in custard 
 glasses, and hand sponge fingers round with it. 
 
 ZABAJONE, ICED. 
 
 Mix the yolks of ten eggs, two dessert-spoon- 
 fuls of castor sugar, ana three wine-glassfuls 
 of Marsala wine. Add half a stick of vanilla, 
 a small bit of whole cinnamon, and the peel of 
 half a lemon cut into strips. Whip this up 
 lightly over a slow fire until it is nearly boiling 
 and slightly frothy. Then remove it, take out 
 the cinnamon, vanilla, and lemon-peel, and 
 whip up the rest for a minute or two away from 
 the fire. Add a table-spoonful of maraschino 
 and one of rum, also a small quantity of dis-. 
 solved isinglass. Stir up the whole, pour it into 
 a silver souffle-dish, and put it on ice. Serve 
 with spongecakes or ice wafers. 
 ZAMPINO, WITH FRENCH BEANS. 
 
 " In Italy and Vienna," says M. Dubois, " they 
 think a great deal of ' zampino ' ('hand,' i.e. 
 foot and leg, of young pork) from Modena, and 
 they are quite right. For my own part, I do 
 not know any product of this nature more 
 cleverly contrived or more successfully achieved 
 than this ' zampino.' The only thin^ to regret 
 is that the 'zampino' is not sufficiently and 
 better known to epicures. Choose a ' zampino ' 
 freshly salted; having soaked it for two hours, 
 drain, and wrap it up in a fine cloth; tie, and 
 
 place it in an oval stewpan, moistening plenti- 
 fully with cold water; make the liquid boil, 
 draw the pan to the side of the fire, keeping 
 the stock simmering for two hours, after which 
 take the pan quite off the fire, leaving the 
 ' zampino ' in, and twenty minutes after unpack, 
 and dish it on a garnish of French beans or 
 Sauer kraut." 
 
 ZANDRINA PUDDING. 
 
 Pick some fresh ripe raspberries. Put them 
 into a jar and cover closely; set the fruit in 
 the oven, in a tin of boiling water, and keep the 
 water boiling roun<i it till the juice flows freely. 
 Boil it with half its weight of sugar to a 
 syrup, and let it get cold. If fresh fruit can- 
 not be procured, a jar of raspberry jam may 
 be dissolved, mixed with a little thin syrup, 
 and rubbed through a sieve. Beat six ounces 
 of fresh butter to cream; work in six ounces 
 of powdered white sugar, six ounces of dried 
 flour, and the well-beaten yolks of six eggs. 
 Whisk the whites of the eggs to snow, and add 
 them to the mixture, together with a wine- 
 glassful of the raspberry syrup. Pour the mix- 
 ture into a buttered mould lyhich it will quite 
 fill, put the cover on it, and put it in a sauce- 
 pan, containing boiling water to the depth of 
 three inches or thereabouts, according to the 
 depth of the mould. Keep the water boiling 
 round the pudding until it is done enough. 
 Take it up, let it stand a minute or two, and 
 turn it out carefully upon a hot dish. Serve, 
 with a little of the syrup whisked with an equal 
 quantity of thick cream, poured round it. If 
 liked, the pudding may be baked instead of 
 being steamed. Time to steam the pudding, an 
 hour and a half. Probable cost, exclusive of 
 the sauce, two shillings. Suificient for six or 
 seven persons. 
 ZEBRA PUDDING. 
 
 Butter a basin, shake crumbs all over it, then 
 put a thick layer of fine crumbs on the bottom, 
 then a layer of any kind of jam, then more 
 crumbs, and so on in layers till the basin is 
 full. Over all pour a custard just sufficient Jo 
 slightly moisten the whole. Cover with buttered 
 paper, and steam for three-quarters of an hour. 
 Different sorts of jam or marmalade may be 
 used. 
 ZEPHYRS (a la Parmentier). 
 
 Put one pound and a half of mashed potatoes 
 with an ounce of butter in a stewpan, stir until 
 hot, season with a little pepper and salt, bind 
 with the yolks of two eggs, and put the mass on a 
 dish to cool. Chop up two ounces of lean cooked 
 ham, one ounce of cooked game or poultry, and 
 one or two mushrooms, and pound them in a 
 mortar till smooth. Add the yolks of two eggs, 
 half a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, two table- 
 spoonfuls of Espagnole sauce, and one ounce of 
 grated Parmesan, season with pepper and a 
 pinch of nutmeg, and mix well. Butter some 
 oval-shaped dariole moulds, sprinkle well with 
 bread-crumbs, fill them up with the prepared 
 mashed potatoes, and bake in the oven a nice 
 golden colour. Scoop out the interiors, and til 
 Tip with the pounded preparation. Beat up the 
 whites of two eggs to a stiff froth, adding a 
 pinch of salt ; cover the surface of each dariole 
 roughly with a little of this, and return the 
 
zou 
 
 1098 
 
 ZWE 
 
 zephyrs again into a quick oven, so as to colour 
 the surface. XJnmould carefully, dish up on a 
 folded napkin, and serve very hot. 
 
 ZOUAVE SAUCE. 
 
 Mince half a pound of onions, fry them lightly 
 in hot fat, drain them, and lay them in a clean 
 stewpan, with half a pint of tomato puree, half 
 a pint of brown sauce, and a table-spoonful each 
 of tarragon vinegar, chilli vinegar, and French 
 wine vinegar. Bring to the boil, skim, add salt 
 to taste, a little French mustard, and Tabasco 
 sauce (sold in bottles). Next stir in a table- 
 spoonful of Indian chutney, and the same of 
 sultana raisins cut into quarters. Simmer till 
 the onions and raisins are tender, adding a little 
 brown stock from time to time to prevent the 
 sauce becoming too thick. Finally, lay in any 
 white meat previously cooked, such as calf's 
 head, veal, rabbit, or tripe, put the cover on, 
 and leave the pan by the side of the fire (below 
 boiling-point) for twenty minutes or so. Dish 
 the meat, give the sauce a boil up, pour it over, 
 and serve.' 
 
 ZUCCHETTI FARCIS. 
 
 Take some very small pumpkins, boil them for 
 about a quarter of an hour in salt and waterj 
 
 remove the seeds, and fill their places with a 
 forcemeat made as follows. Take some crumb of 
 bread and soak it in milk; press it, and add 
 the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs and two raw 
 yolks ; chop up very finely six blanched almonds 
 with a couple of cloves, put these in; lastly 
 add two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, 
 and a little salt and grated nutmeg. Stew 
 these gourds in butter, and serve with white 
 sauce. 
 
 ZWEIBACH. 
 
 Sift through a tamis into a bowl half a pound 
 of flour, and set it in a warm place to heat 
 moderately. While this is doing make half a 
 glass of milk just lukewarm, with a quarter of 
 a pound of butter, a little sugar, and a pinch 
 of salt. When this is well mixed, add the flour, 
 stirring it well in with the yolks of two and the 
 white of one egg. When well incorporated add 
 a tea-spoonful of yeast passed through a tamis. 
 The paste should be of a consistency fit to roll 
 with the hands ; if it is too soft more flour may 
 be added until the requisite density is attained. 
 Roll the paste into round balls, which, when 
 baked, should be about the size of billiard balls. 
 Bake in a quick oven. 
 
APPENDIX, 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 A.— KITCHEN UTENSILS. 
 
 It is emphatically true of kitchen utensils that 
 the best are cheapest. The market is full of goods 
 ill-calculated to stand hard wear ; and good 
 cookery is not possible where heat is unevenly 
 appUed, as it must be in tinware of paper-Uke 
 thickness only. We would not say that cheap tin- 
 ware never meets a want ; but we do assert that 
 those who can well afford good utensils often buy 
 very poor ones, without taking into account the 
 nature of the work they are called upon to do. 
 For example, a Httle tin saucepan, costing two or 
 three pence, may suffice for boiUng an egg ; but 
 what is its length of Ufe if used for custards or 
 thick sauces, and what will be the result of applying 
 it to such purposes ? Then there is the trouble of 
 constantly renewing the stock, and yet there will 
 be nothing worth using. 
 
 It should be borne in mind that saucepans and 
 many similar articles are very much cheaper in 
 proportion as they increase in size. The same is 
 true of all sorts of wooden things, such as bowls, 
 boards, etc. Sometimes for a few pence more than 
 a small one costs a certain utensil of a much more 
 generally useful size may be bought ; and while a 
 httle bowl cannot be used for mixing a large quantity 
 of materials, a good-sized one will serve for a small 
 quantity. This is the sort of experience that many 
 buy very dearly. 
 
 A golden maxim is '' Apply everything, so far as 
 this is possible, to its proper use," for this is to 
 prolong its Ufe considerably. 
 
 It may be noted that many expensive utensils of 
 copper, that are required for use by some, are not 
 detailed in our Ust, such as sugar spinners, spoon 
 warmers, soup ladles, etc. etc. In all kitchens 
 where such a batterie de cuisine is wanted, where the 
 housekeeper and cook know their business, they 
 will be purchased. Our aim has been mostly to 
 meet moderate requirements, and to include more 
 of the articles of the labour-saving class than are 
 
 usually included in kitchen lists. It is not to be 
 supposed that all we have named must be had ; 
 but in many a house, particularly where no servant 
 is kept, such aids are of great service ; and while 
 there are many who systematically " leave the new 
 untried," there are others equally glad to know of, 
 and buy them. The Ust may seem a formidable one, 
 but what a long way a sovereign would go in the 
 purchase of such articles, and how many more 
 sovereigns might it not save ! 
 
 " Labour savers " of one sort or other abound, 
 and almost every day brings something fresh to the 
 front. To some the term " electric " has been 
 appUed, though they have nothing in common with 
 electricity, but they perform their functions with 
 rapidity. Chopping knives with several blades, 
 fruit and vegetable mashers, fruit stoners, handy 
 knives for paring vegetables, saving both time and 
 material; these, and a host of others, aU worthy 
 of note, are more frequently found at stores where 
 novelties are made a speciality than in the stock 
 of ordinary ironmongers. Sometimes where gas- 
 stoves are sold or let out on hire, a good assortment 
 of goods of this class may be met with. It has been 
 well said that " anything which simpUfles the 
 domestic labour of the household should be re- 
 garded as of distinct benefit to mankind." Some 
 people, unfortunately, scorn to consider any utensil 
 to which they have npt been-accustomed aU theii 
 Uves. 
 
 A tin-covered table, for example, has many 
 advantages. It is all very well to know how to 
 extract the grease from a wooden table, but it is 
 better for the practical housekeeper to know how 
 to keep it out. AU that is needful is for a sheet of 
 tin to be fitted on the table, and bent over the 
 edges. This needs no scrubbing, is impervious 
 to pot kinks, and sheds grease as the proverbial 
 duck's back does water. A fair and cheap substi- 
 tute is to be found in marbled oilcloth. This is 
 
1102 
 
 CASSELLS NEW DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. 
 
 readily kept clean, and always looks clean. But 
 soft toard, such as pine, is absorbent and conducting 
 — a tiny spot of grease is soon an unsightly blot ; 
 and for these reasons an uncovered table is, in 
 the opinion of many, a mistake. 
 
 A good supply of strong cloths should be at hand. 
 These may be got from packing cloths and bags of 
 various kinds to be bought of grocers for a trifle ; 
 or the material, first hand, will cost but little. 
 Oven cloths, to be of service, must be thick. Stout 
 material doubled, with layers of flannel or old 
 woollen materials in between, and stitched across 
 once or twice in opposite directions, may be recom- 
 mended. An enlarged form of iron holder is what 
 is wanted, and it should be hung by a loop ready to 
 hand. When these things are'not provided, other 
 cloths are certain to be diverted from their legiti- 
 mate use. Anything wiped up from stove or floor 
 should be done with old cloths kept for the purpose ; 
 while for taking off the " first coat " of grease from 
 anything and everything, from knives to oven 
 shelves, what can be handier than paper, which 
 ought to be kept ready for use, threaded, and hung 
 on a nail ? A few needles, ready threaded, stuck in a 
 cushion, together with some strong pins, and twine 
 and tape in convenient lengths, should always be 
 kept for use on their respective nails, well within the 
 reach of the cook. Anything that can be used on 
 the spot which will tend to save labour later on, 
 is the thing to aim at. In a word, study to promote 
 the general comfort of those who have to do the 
 work of the kitchen, for it will re-act to the advan- 
 tage of all in the house. 
 
 To come to the subject of cooking utensils : of 
 the many kinds in ordinary use, each may be better 
 fitted for a particular purpose than any of the 
 others, and where the stock is limited, the thing 
 is to buy those that shall be of all-round service ; 
 or, at least, to steer clear of what may be 
 injurious. Serious consequences may arise from 
 the misuse of metallic substances. Copper and 
 brass, and bell metal are all liable to be injurious 
 if used for acids, such as vinegar, and some acid 
 fruits. When used for fruits, copper should be 
 tinned ; indeed, for whatever purpose they may 
 be applied, all copper goods should be re-tinned as 
 soon as necessary. No food should be left in 
 them, and they must be put away clean and dry. 
 Brass pans are endless in wear, and may be used 
 for all sorts of purposes other than for acids, whether 
 liquid or solid. Block-tin goods and tinned iron 
 are safe and useful, but untinned iron, although 
 suitable for what may be termed strong cookery, 
 such as the boiling of meats, etc., is not adapted 
 for delicate preparations. Many articles of food, too. 
 
 are blackened by contact with pans of this sort. 
 Leaden vessels are not safe, but their use is prac- 
 tically extinct in modem kitchens. 
 
 Enamelled ironware is durable, but wants care 
 to prevent cracking. There is a vast difference in 
 the weight and wear of these goods. Some recently 
 introduced utensils are of steel, well enamelled, and 
 combine lightness and strength. Almost every- 
 thing likely to be wanted in the kitchen may be 
 had in this Useful and cleanly material. 
 
 Sanitary seamless steel is known in most good 
 kitchens nowadays, and it may be highly recom- 
 mended, for it has the long life of copper at Httle 
 more than the price of iron. For general cooking 
 it meets all needs. 
 
 A material which combines a minimum of weight 
 with a maximum of durability (for it is unbreakable) 
 deserves mention : it is a sort of paper pulp, and 
 the colours imitate marble ; mixing bowls, tubs 
 for washing up, etc. are made of it ; but, of course, 
 it will not stand the fire. 
 
 Block- tin goods are serviceable when well made, 
 and used for gas stoves, close ranges, etc. ; but 
 they soon wear out on an open fire. Saucepans, 
 etc. of this sort are often made with copper bottoms, 
 and are worth the extra cost. 
 
 The fire-proof china-ware has had frequent 
 mention in these pages, but not more than it 
 deserves. A pretty general impression that " fire- 
 proof " and " unbreakable " are identical terms 
 should be corrected. It can be broken. But with 
 care it lasts well. The white is the more delicate, 
 and the brown the stronger. Another form of 
 china, that is neither fire-proof nor unbreakable, 
 though very strong, and pure white only, is known 
 as " Austrian china,'' and every conceivable article 
 for the kitchen may be had in it. Any kitchen fitted 
 up with this should look a picture of the cleanUness 
 all admire, though so very seldom see. It is not 
 purchasable everywhere. 
 
 Wooden vessels, properly used, are excellent for 
 many purposes, but should anything be left to 
 become ' putrid in them, they want very careful 
 cleansing, owing to the absorbent nature of the 
 wood. 
 
 Marble is too costly for most people ; when it 
 can be afforded, however, it should be used for 
 pestles and mortars, paste slabs, etc., because these 
 are so readily kept clean when made of it. A good 
 substitute used for pestles and mortars is a " com- 
 position," very smooth and durable. 
 
 When earthenware is used, it should be well 
 glazed ; and glass vessels are useful for storage on 
 account of being non-absorbent. Unglazed, porous 
 jars which are readily penetrated by grease or 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 1103 
 
 acids, should not be used for such substances. 
 There is no trouble in getting the right sort of glazed 
 ware if people will ask for it, and pay a fair price. 
 It is certain that purity of flavour and perfect 
 cJeanliness are not possible where vessels with an 
 absorbable interior are used. This should be 
 particularly remembered in connection with sick- 
 room and nursery cooking. 
 
 The following are the most important kitchen 
 utensils : — 
 
 Apple Cober._A useful Utile implement for 
 removing the cores of apples without slicing the 
 fruit. 
 
 ASPABAGUS Satjcepau.— To properly cook this 
 vegetable, it is necessary to boil it upright, and 
 not lying flat, crushed down by its own weight. 
 The heads in an asparagus saucepan are kept above 
 the water and steamed, thus retaining the whole 
 deheious flavour of the vegetable. Price 4s. 6d. 
 
 Baking Dish,— Ordinary baking dishes are 
 made of earthenware. Some housekeepers prefer 
 them made of tin or of iron, enamelled on the 
 inside, as being more durable. M. Soyer invented 
 an improved baking dish, to which was attached 
 a movable false grating of wire, and in the centre 
 of this was fixed a trivet three inches in height. 
 He put the pudding at the bottom of the dish ; he 
 then put in the grating, on which he placed the 
 potatoes, and on the trivet he put the meat. By 
 this means the surplus fat, which would otherwise 
 have fallen on the pudding and prevented its 
 setting, would descend on the potatoes, making 
 them delicate and crisp. Probable cost of baking 
 dishes, 4d. and upwards, according to size and 
 quality. 
 
 Beeb Taps. — Beer taps are made either of brass 
 or wood. The former are the most durable, the 
 latter the sweetest. Taps should always be brushed 
 and laid in cold water for some hours after being 
 taken out of one cask, before they are put into 
 another. Several patent taps of various kinds are 
 sold. One of these, the screw tap, is to be recom- 
 mended to those who find it necessary to tap their 
 own barrels and have a difficulty in doing it. The 
 tap needs only to be pushed into the cork, and 
 screwed round and round till the circular piece of 
 metal presses upon the cork. Probable cost, taps 
 made of brass, from Is. 6d. ; of wood, 4d. ; screw 
 taps, 2s. 6d. 
 
 BoiLEB. — In large famihes the boiler is in frequent 
 requisition. It is used for boihng large joints, 
 hams, etc. Boilers are made in various sizes of 
 wrought-iron or cast-iron. The wrought-iron ones 
 cost from 16s. to 22s. 6d. The cast-iron ones 
 
 from 4s. 6d. to 7s. 6d. Boilers should be washed 
 out and dried perfectly as soon as possible after 
 they are done with. The cover should be hung 
 in the cupboard by the side of the pan when it is 
 not in use. 
 
 Bottle Jack and Wheel.— A bottle jack is a 
 useful httle machine for roasting poultry or joints 
 of meat before the fire. It is wound up like a 
 watch, a.nd its action keeps the meat turning 
 round and round, thus causing it to be equally 
 cooked. Probable cost, 8s. 6d., 10s. 6d., and 
 16s. 6d. 
 
 Bbaising Pan or Beaisieee.— A brasifere is 
 simply an oval stewpan, with a cover so formed 
 that live embers can be held in it, and thus the 
 cooking process can be carried on from above as 
 well as below. These pans are made both of 
 copper and of tinned iron. The latter are much 
 cheaper than the former, and just as good. As 
 braisieres are not very common in ordinary kitchens, 
 it may be said that a stewpan of modern form 
 which will admit of embers being placed upon the 
 Ud will answer the same purpose. Probable cost, 
 copper braising pans, with fire-pan, cover, and 
 draining plates, from £3 10s. to £6 10s., according to 
 size. 
 
 Bee AD Geatee. — A bread grater is made of tin, 
 and is used to crumble bread smoothly, evenly, and 
 finely. It may be bought in two or three sizes, and 
 will cost from 6d. to Is. 6d. 
 
 Canistees. — Canisters in which to preserve tea, 
 cdBee, and various groceries are made of japanned 
 tin. They should be emptied and washed out 
 occasionally, and should then be dried perfectly 
 before being used again. They may be bought of 
 various sizes. Price, from 9d. 
 
 Cask Stands. — Cask stands are made to hold a 
 ca.sk of wine or ale quite steadily. They are so 
 constructed that the cask can be raised when 
 necessary so gently that the contents need not be 
 shaken, and the hquor can be drawn off clear and 
 bright to the last. Price 8s. 6d., 10s. 6d., and 
 lis. 6d. 
 
 Casseeole. — A casserole is a dish made of fire- 
 proof china- or clay- ware. It has the appearance of 
 a covered saucepan, and is about as deep as it is 
 broad. Meat prepared en casserole is usually, in 
 the first stage, lightly fried, then transferred to 
 the casserole, and cooked in the oven by a long, 
 slow process. Price is. to 13s. 6d. 
 
 Chafing Dish. — A ohafimg dish consists of a stand 
 and lamp, over which is placed, first a water pan, 
 and next, over this, a cooking pan. If you omit 
 the water pan and place the cooking pan alone 
 
1101 
 
 CASSELL'S NEW DICTIONABY OF COOKEKY. 
 
 over the lamp, you have then an apparatus by 
 means of which all kinds of dainty dishes can be 
 easily and quickly prepared from meat, fish, game, 
 eggs, cheese, fruit, or, in fact, any kind of food. 
 The most delicious omelets are turned out in a 
 few minutes^ whilst, by the aid of the toaster, 
 toast or small scones can be made without 
 difficulty. By placing the water pan, with a 
 little water in it, under the cooking pan, and 
 reducing the flame (each lamp can be regulated), 
 cooked food, without becoming dry, can be kept 
 hot for hours, so that in a sick room, or to anyone 
 returning home late at night, when, perhaps, the 
 kitchen department is all closed, this equipment 
 is simply invaluable. Price, from 12s. 6d. 
 
 Cheese Gbateb. — ^Indispensable for preparing 
 cheese for macaroni, cheese souffles, rarebits, etc. 
 Old and hard pieces of cheese which cannot be sent 
 to table can be utilised in this manner. Price Is. 
 
 Cheese Stbwkr. — A metal dish with a spirit 
 lamp underneath in which cheese may be stewed. 
 Useful also for warming or cooking many other 
 kinds of food. Price 7s. 6d. to 15s. 
 
 Chopping Boabd and Knife. — When meat is 
 to be minced for croquettes, kromeskies, rissoles, 
 etc., or when suet or other ingredients are to be 
 chopped very small, the task will be most easily 
 accomplished upon a chopping board with a knife 
 adapted for the purpose. These boards have to 
 a great extent been superseded by the sausage 
 machines, which do their work quickly and thor- 
 oughly. A chopping board can be procured from 
 Is. to 2s., and a, knife from Is. 4d. A sausage 
 machine costs from 4s. 6d. 
 
 Clocks. — A clock is indispensable in a kitclien 
 where regularity and punctuality are to be observed. 
 Clocks may be had at all sorts of prices. Excellent 
 American clocks can be obtained at a very trifling 
 cost. 
 
 Coffee Mill. — This is a necessity wherever 
 good coffee is desired. Ground coffee quickly loses 
 its strength, and the amount required at any one 
 time should be ground just before using. In 
 selecting a coffee mill it is better to take one that 
 stands on a table rather than one that screws upon 
 a shelf. The mill should not be washed, but should 
 be kept clean by wiping the hopper and drawer often 
 and the wheels and working parts when necessary. 
 Price, from 2s. 6d. 
 
 Cook's Knife.— It will facilitate the cook's 
 operations if she is provided with two or three 
 sharp-pointed knives of different sizes. This kind 
 of knife is much to be preferred to the short, round- 
 bladed implement. Probable cost, from 2s. 
 
 Digester. — A digester is a most valuable utensil 
 which cannot be too highly recommended to those 
 who wish to preserve all the goodness that can be 
 extracted from meat, bones, or vegetables. It is 
 a kind of iron stock pot, made with a lid which flts 
 so closely into a groove at the top that no steam 
 can escape that way, but only through a valve at 
 the top. Care must be taken, therefore, in filling 
 the digester to ^Jlow plenty of room for this escape — 
 indeed, the pot should never be more than three- 
 parts filled with water, bruised bones, and meat. 
 The contents of the pan should be kept simmering 
 very gently as long as may be necessary. A fierce 
 heat would injure the quaUty of the preparation. 
 Digesters are made in all sizes, holding from three 
 quarts to ten gallons. The saucepan and stewpan 
 digesters for making gravies hold from one to eight 
 quarts. Probable cost, digester holding one gallon, 
 4s. 9d. ; holding four gallons, 9s. 8d. 
 
 Dredgers. — Dredgers for sugar and flour may 
 be bought for about Cd. Their use prevents waste, 
 and also makes it easy for the cook to distribute 
 the ingredients hghtly and equally over the prepara- 
 tion. 
 
 Dripping Pan and Basting Ladle. — The drip- 
 ping pan is placed under the joint to catch the fat 
 and gravy which drops from it. This pan is 
 constructed with a well in the centre, which is 
 covered with a lid and surrounded with holes, so 
 that the dripping can run into the well free from 
 ashes. This lid can be lifted up when the meat is 
 to be basted. The basting ladle is half-covered 
 with a piece of perforated metal, so that if any 
 cinders should get into the dripping, they may be 
 kept from falling upon the meat. Dripping pans 
 may be purchased, made of copper, and standing 
 on legs, and the price of one of these, with the well 
 and ladle, would be from £4 10s. to f 1 1 10s., accord- 
 ing to size. They are usually made of wrought- 
 iron or of tin, and stands for them may be bought 
 separately. The price of a good wrought-iron 
 dripping pan on iron legs, with a well, would be 
 from £1 18s. to £2 6s. The price of a good tin 
 dripping pan would be about 8s. 6d., that of an iron 
 stand about 4s. 6d., and a basting ladle from 2s. to 
 5s. 6d. 
 
 Earthen Jars. — A most excellent mode of 
 cooking is that which is accomplished by means 
 of an ordinary earthen jar, with a closely-fitting 
 Ud. Meat, fruit, and various farinaceous articles 
 may be baked most satisfactorily in this way. 
 The process is so gentle and gradual that the in- 
 gredients can scarcely be spoilt, and besides this, 
 if the jar is closely covered, the nourishment con- 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 1105 
 
 tained in the food cannot escape. The meat, fruit, 
 rice, or whatever is to be cooked, should be placed 
 in the jar with the necessary quantity of Uquid. 
 The jar should then be covered closely or pasted 
 down, should be put in a shallow tin filled with 
 boiUng water, and placed in the oven. The water 
 round it should be kept boiUhg. The quantity of 
 water should be kept up (a little being added every 
 now and then) until the preparation is sufficiently 
 baked. Probable cost, earthen jars from 9d. each, 
 according to size. 
 
 Egg Beater. — Rotary egg-beaters are now 
 generally used instead of hand " whisks. With 
 these little machines, eggs, batters, etc. can be 
 wrought up in a few minutes to a degree of hghtness 
 far superior to anything that can be produced by 
 the ordinary hand whisk. Price, from 9d. 
 
 FiLTEB. — A filter should be found in every house. 
 No one who has given the least thought to the 
 subject can doubt that health depends to a great 
 extent upon the purity of the water which is drunk, 
 and the water suppUed to houses is often not fit 
 for drinking purposes until it has been filtered. A 
 filter needs only to be filled regularly and cleaned 
 out every week, and when this is done there is 
 always at hand a supply of that necessary of Ufe — 
 pure drinking water; Filters may be procured 
 from 6s. upwards. 
 
 Fish Kettle. — A fish kettle is fitted with » 
 strainer, upon which the fish is to be placed, and 
 which is pulled up when the fish is sufficiently 
 boiled. The strainer should be placed across the 
 kettle for a minute, and when the water has 
 drained from the fish, it should be placed carefuUy- 
 on the dish. There are three or four shapes in fish 
 kettles, constructed to suit the shape of different 
 fish, such as a salmon kettle, a turbot kettle, and 
 a carp kettle. All are fitted with strainers. Price 
 of fish kettle, from 7s. 6d. 
 
 Fish Slicee. — A fish slicer is made of perforated 
 metal — tin or copper — and is used to lift the fish 
 from the strainer to the dish upon which it is to be 
 served. A utensil of the same kind is employed to 
 lift poached eggs out of the water, and is also useful 
 to preserve unbroken any article which needs to 
 be carefully passed from the cooking vessel to the 
 dish. Price, from 6d. 
 
 Fetjit Pbess. — May be used for many purposes, 
 such as making wines and jelUes from grapes, 
 strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, gooseberries, 
 currants, quinces, pineapples, etc. A press has 
 recently been introduced which extracts the juice 
 and ejects the skins and seeds in one operation. 
 Price, from 4s. 6d. 
 3s 
 
 Frying Pan, Saute Pan, Omelet Pan, and 
 Fish Fbyer. — When a frying pan is spoken of it is 
 generally understood to mean a shallow pan, made 
 of iron or copper, in which any preparation that 
 requires but Uttle cooking can be tossed quickly 
 ovet the fire. A pan with straight sides is named 
 a saute pan, and a smaller pan of the same kind, 
 with sloping sides, and kept exclusively for omelets 
 and different preparations of batter, is called an 
 omelet pan. It has been already explained that 
 to fry anything is to boil it in fat ; to saute it is 
 to cook it over the fire, one side at a time, in a 
 very small quantity of fat. When a pancake, an 
 omelet, or a chop is cooked in a small quantity, 
 of fat, it is said to be " dry fried." These dis- 
 tinctions are, however, so little understood 
 in English kitchens, that to adopt the correct 
 terms would in nine cases out of ten be to 
 cause the recipes to be misunderstood, therefore 
 the usual word has been taken. Frying pans, or 
 saute pans, and omelet pans are made both of iron 
 and copper. The former are most generally used. 
 They should be kept scrupulously clean, and should 
 never on any account be put away dirty. When 
 not in use they should be hung in a dry, airy 
 situation, where the dust cannot settle upon them. 
 Before being used a httle fat should be heated in 
 the pan, and when this is removed the bowl should 
 be wiped with a dry cloth. This will ensure its 
 being perfectly free from damp. The same pan. 
 that is used for frying fish should not be taken for 
 other things. Deep frying pans are sold on purpose 
 for fish ; they are called fish fryers. T^cy are in 
 shape not unhke a preserving pan, and are fitted 
 with a closely-made wire basket, with handles at 
 each end. The fish placed in this can be plunged 
 at once into the boiling fat, and when done enough 
 can be taken out of it and drained without much 
 fear of being broken. The possession of one of 
 these pans makes it a comparatively easy thing to 
 fry fish. When they are not at hand, however, 
 and they are not by any means in general use, the 
 ordinary frying pan must be used instead. The fat 
 used must be as deep as cfrcumstances will permit, 
 and if necessary the fish must be fried first upon 
 one side and then turned over upon the other. 
 Steaks and chops, though constantly fried, are 
 much better broiled. 'When a prejudice exists in 
 favour of dry frying, however, it should be re- 
 membered that the fat used should be allowed to 
 become hot before the meat is placed in it. This 
 will keep it from being greasy. Probable cost, iron 
 frying pans and omelet pans from Is. each ; copper 
 ones from 6s. 6d., according to size. Fish fryers 
 from 12s. 6d. 
 
1106 
 
 cassell's new dictionary of cookery. 
 
 FtnSTNBL, Tin. — A tin funnel is used to prevent 
 waste in passing liquid from one vessel to another. 
 Tin funnels should always be scalded and dried 
 perfectly after being used. Price 4d. or 6d. 
 
 Gas Stoves. — See "Principi.bs of Cookeby," 
 p. xlix. 
 
 Gaupfbb Ieons are a, kind of tongs made for 
 the purpose of baking small round cakes over the 
 fire. Price 7s. 6d. 
 
 Glaze Pots. — A glaze pot and brush for heating 
 and applying glaze somewhat resembles a glue 
 kettle. When the proper convenience is not at 
 hand, put the glaze into a jar, place this in a pan 
 of boiling water, and keep the water round it boil- 
 ing till the glaze is melted. 
 
 GouKMET. — An earthenware vessel, with a lid, 
 in which fruit, cereals, etc. may be slowly cooked. 
 It is usually placed in a saucepan containing hot 
 water, and the contents subjected to a gentle heat 
 for some hours. Price, from 3s. 6d. 
 
 Gravy Stbainers. — Gravy strainers are made of 
 tin, and in various shapes and sizes. Perhaps the 
 best and most convenient is one shaped hke a 
 jelly-bag, and perforated at the sides. Gravy 
 strainers should be rinsed in hot water and dried 
 each time they are used. Probable cost, Is., Is. 3d., 
 and Is. 6d. each. 
 
 Gridirons. — The gridiron is an essential article 
 among kitchen utensils, and indeed in all kitchens 
 at least two should be kept — one for fish, and one 
 for chops, steaks, etc. 
 
 Gridirons are of various shapes and sizes, some 
 being square and some round, or " circular grid- 
 irons " as they are called. Some, too, consist of 
 round parallel bars of iron, and some of fluted bars — 
 i.e. gutter gridirons. 
 
 The circular gutter gridiron is, of course, adapted 
 to close stoves, and the advantage that gutter 
 gridirons possess over ordinary ones is that much 
 of the fat, etc. that would otherwise fall in the fire 
 and flare is by this means saved. In all ordinary 
 gridirons, of course, all that falls from the meat 
 goes in the fire. Sometimes this is desirable, as in 
 cooking a chop or steak the object of the cook is 
 as much as possible to obtain a black colour outside 
 and a red colour in. In using a gutter gridiron over 
 a rather slack fire it will be found advisable to take 
 a spoon and dip it into the reservoir into which the 
 fat has run, and pour occasionally a few drops into 
 the fire, thereby causing the flare that will turn the 
 meat the colour desired. 
 
 Very great pains should always be taken in the 
 cleansing of gridirons. Those composed of round 
 bars, after being carefully washed, should be rubbed 
 
 with scouring paper, by which means alone is 
 perfect cleanliness attainable. 
 
 In cleaning gutter gridirons each gutter should 
 be scraped separately till no stain is left, and 
 extra precautions as to cleanliness should be 
 observed always after cooking fish of any kind. 
 
 In using a gridiron for grilling, care should be 
 always taken in the early stages of the process to 
 prevent whatever is grilled from sticking, and con- 
 sequently burning. For instance, when fish is 
 grilled, it will be always found advisable to rub 
 the gridiron with a piece of mutton fat. 
 
 Hot Closet. — A hot closet is a kind of cupboard 
 connected with the range, furnished with shelves, 
 upon which plates and dishes can be warmed, and 
 in which various kinds of confectionery can be dried. 
 They are seldom used, except in hotels and very 
 large estabUshments. Price, from 30s. to 60s. 
 
 Hot- water Dish. — Joints which are to be served 
 very hot, and especially those which are liable to chill 
 quickly, should be placed on a hot- water dish. This 
 is a dish arranged with a double bottom, which can 
 be filled with hot water, and which will keep hot 
 both the dish which is over it and the joint and 
 the gravy which are upon it. The water ought to 
 be boiling hot, and ought not to be poured into 
 the dish until the last moment. Probable cost, for 
 a 16-inch dish of Britannia metal, about 37s. 6d. 
 Hot- water plates of Britannia metal will cost about 
 9s. ; if made of tin, they will cost 3s. 6d. Covers 
 for the same will cost from Is. 6d. to 4s. 6d. 
 
 Ice-making Machines. — The following method 
 is the one usually adopted for freezing various 
 preparations. Procure a few pounds of ice, break 
 it into small pieces, mix three or four large handfuls 
 of bay salt with it, and put it into an ice pail. Put 
 the preparation which is to be iced into a freezing- 
 pot, and cover it. Place this in the midst of the 
 broken ice, cover it, and after a short time twist it 
 round rapidly, then work it well with the spatula 
 until the sweet or other confection is smooth. If 
 this is not done it will be lumpy. Put it into 
 a mould, and embed it in ice till it is set. In 
 the piston freezing machine the preparation is 
 placed in cylinders, and outside these are put 
 pounded ice, salt, and a little water. The piston 
 is then worked up and down, and this not only 
 moves the ice and salt round the cyUnders, but 
 also moves the " stirrers " inside the cylinders, 
 which makes the preparation smooth. When it 
 is frozen it is pressed firmly down and moulded, 
 then embedded in ice till it is quite set. Freezing 
 powders for generating ice are much used. Some 
 machines can be used with these powders only, 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 HOT 
 
 Others require a mixture of ice and salt. A freezing 
 pail may be procured for about 7s. 6d. ; a pewter 
 freezing pot which will hold one quart, for 12s. 6d. ; 
 two quarts, 16a. 6d. ; three quarts, 25s. ; a spatula 
 for 5s. ; freezing machines from 10s. Freezing 
 powders are sold in boxes, or by the owt. 
 
 Ice Safes or Refrigebators. — Ice safes are 
 constructed for the purpose of keeping wines, 
 jeUies, butter, milk, etc. deUciously cool in summer 
 time. The price varies according to size, which 
 regulates also the quantity of ice required per 
 week. A small safe, 1 ft. 10 in. by 1 ft. 8 in. will 
 need 40 lb. of ice per week, and for a large one 
 measuring 4 ft. 2 in. by 2 ft. 3 in., 150 lb. will be 
 requisite. There is an improved refrigerator which 
 is fitted with a filter, and is so constructed that 
 the water as it melts is drained into the filter, where 
 it is kept ready for drinking, and ice-cold. The 
 cost of a refrigerator will be from £2 10s. to £8 8s., 
 according to size. If fitted with a filter it will be 
 more expensive. 
 
 Icing Pipe and Bag. — ^This is useful for decorat- 
 ing cakes and confectionery. The icing mixture 
 is put into the bag. and squeezed out through the 
 pipe into any scrolls or designs that fancy may 
 dictate. Price, from 5s. 
 
 Jelly Bags. — Jelly bags may be bought ready 
 made, but they are much the best when made at 
 home. Procure a piece of very stout flannel. That 
 used for making ironing blankets is very good. 
 Turn it cornerwise, and make it in the shape of a 
 fool's cap. Be careful to stitch the seams twice 
 with strong thread, and fasten tapes round the top 
 at equal distances, by means of which it may be 
 suspended from the stand. Stands are sold 
 purposely for jelly bags ; when one of these is 
 not at hand, the bag may be hung between two 
 chairs turned back to back. A jelly bag may be 
 made of any size. It should be dipped into hot 
 water, and wrung quite dry before being used. 
 Extempore jelly-bags may be made by tying a 
 clean cloth on the legs of a chair turned upside 
 down on a table. 
 
 JtTGS, KiTCHEir. — In bujfing jugs, always choose 
 a shape which will enable the cook's hand to be 
 ea.sily inserted. Otherwise they are apt to be put 
 by with a lim of stale milk or beer in the upper 
 part, thus rendering sour the next Uquid poured 
 into them. 
 
 Knife Baskets. — Knife baskets are made of 
 wicker-work, with a tin fining. They can be very 
 easily washed out and dried. Probable cost of 
 tinned baskets, lOs. Japanned baskets may be 
 bad for about 2s. 
 
 KniKb-Cleaning Machinb. — A rotary machine 
 is the most effective and the easiest to work. In it 
 the knives are held by flexible supports which 
 prevent them being strained or bent back, and a 
 brilliant polish is produced without injury to the 
 blades. Price varies according to size. 
 
 Larding Needles. — Larding needles are used in 
 larding. They are made with split ends, and are 
 intended to held the httle strips of bacon called 
 lardoons, which, by their means, are introduced into 
 the surface of the meat. They are sold in boxes, 
 which contain twelve needles of different sizes, or 
 they may be bought separately. Probable cost, 
 9d. to Is. per box. 
 
 Lemon Squeezer. — By means of this little 
 utensil the juice can be pressed from the lemon 
 so thoroughly that scarcely a drop is left in it. As 
 it is almost impossible to squeeze a lemon quite 
 dry with the hand, the lemon squeezer may certainly 
 be classed amongst the kitchen utensils which 
 prevent waste. Price, from 6d. 
 
 Marble Slab for Pastry. — Puflf-paste ought 
 properly to be rolled upon a marble slab ; it is 
 then much more Ukely to be Ught and puffy than 
 when it is rolled upon wood. Marble slabs are 
 sold for the purpose. Probable cost. Is. 6d. 
 
 Meat Chopper. — A meat chopper is used to 
 chop into small pieces and to disjoint bones which, 
 are to be stewed down for gravy or stock. The 
 price is from Is. 9d. to 3s. A meat cleaver to be 
 used for the same purpose will cost from 4s. 6d. 
 
 Meat Safes. — Meat safes belong properly to 
 the larder. They are intended to preserve meat, 
 pastry, etc. from flies and dust. They are almost 
 indispensable in hot weather. It should be re- 
 membered that meat, etc. should be allowed to 
 become perfectly cold before being put into the 
 safe. Small wire safes may be bought for about 
 Is. 6d., and large ones of the same kind for 63. or 
 7s. Better and more durable ones made either 
 to hang from the top of the larder or to fit in the 
 window, and of various sizes, will cost from 22s. 
 to 33s. 
 
 Meat Screens. — Some meat screens are made 
 of wood, fined with tin, and fitted with shelves 
 upon which the plates and dishes can be warmed. 
 The modern meat screen is a more compact affair. 
 It is made of tin, and is constructed to condense 
 the heat as much as possible. The joint is himg 
 inside, and there is a place for the jack just above 
 the screen, and connected with it. The advantage 
 which this screen possesses over the old-fashioned 
 one is that by means of it a joint may be cooked a« 
 a comparatively small fire, on account of the hea<i 
 
J 108 
 
 CASSELL'S NEW DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. 
 
 being reflected from the tin upon the meat. Some 
 persons object to it because they consider that the 
 meat being so closely surrounded acquires a baked 
 taste. Certainly the close screen should not be 
 placed near the grate, or the joint will become 
 hard and dry upon the surface. Probable cost, 
 wood screen, from 30s. ; close screen, 16s. 6d. 
 
 Milk Boilbb.^A double saucepan, the inner one 
 being of china, or china-lined, in which milk can 
 be cooked and food warmed without fear of burning. 
 Price, from 3s. 
 
 MHiK Sterhjsek. — Where there are infants or 
 invalids in the family, it is very desirable to sterilise 
 the milk. There are various little apparatus to be 
 obtained, which make sterilisation easy, and can 
 be used by nurse or mother without trouble. Price 
 aecording to make. Most good dairies, however, 
 do the sterilising now. 
 
 MotTLDS FOR Cakes and Puddings. — Cakes are 
 generally baked in tin moulds, and a large choice 
 of these is offered to the purchaser. Puddings 
 may eitber be boiled in moulds bi in plain pudding 
 basins with a rim. Many puddings, especially 
 those into the composition of which bread enters, 
 are both lighter and drier when boiled in a stout 
 cloth, rather than in a mould. Probable cost of 
 pudding and cake moulds, from 2s. ; pudding 
 Jbasins, from 6d. 
 
 Moulds fob Jelly. — Moulds for jelly may be 
 purchased so pretty and so artistic that they 
 need to be seen to be appreciated. There are plain 
 moulds of all shapes and sizes, and if these have 
 a bunch of fruit or any similar design on the top, a 
 pretty effect may be produced by colouring suitably 
 the jelly which will fill that portion of the mould. 
 Particular care must be taken to colour only as 
 much jelly as is required, and the coloured part 
 must be allowed to get quite stiff before the rest 
 of the jelly (which should also, of course, be perfectly 
 set), is placed upon it. Open moulds, or rather 
 border moulds, are also made, which leave the 
 jeUy with an opening in the centre to be filled with 
 whipped cream. By means of the more elaborate 
 ipoulds, jellies beautiful in appearance may be 
 turned out. Amongst these may be mentioned 
 the Belgrave mould, the Alexandra mould, and the 
 Star mould. These moulds are provided with mov- 
 able interiors, so constructed that a transparent 
 jplly can be poured into the outer portion of the 
 mould, and when this is quite stiff the lining can 
 be removed, and the cavity filled with an opaque 
 jelly, which, being discernible through the trans- 
 parent exterior, has a very good appearance, 
 Simple earthenware moulds can be purchased from 
 
 2s. 6d. ; copper moulds cost from 98. 6d. ; bordev 
 moulds, 12s. 6d. ; and moulds with movable linings 
 about 22s. 6d. 
 
 To tise the Bdgrave Movld. — Pour some clear 
 bright jelly round, but not into, the cylinders, 
 When this is quite set, pour a little warm water 
 into the cylinders for a moment, then withdraw 
 the lining, and fill the cavities with bright-coloured 
 jellies or cream of different colours, or with fruit, 
 which can be kept in its place by pouring a small 
 portion of liquid jelly upon it after it is arranged. 
 The space which was occupied by the central 
 cylinder may be left empty, and filled, just before 
 the jelly is served, with white or coloured whipped 
 cream. 
 
 To use. the Alexandra Movld. — Put the mould in 
 ice. Fill the first cross with white jelly, and when 
 this is stiff fill the second cross with pink jelly, and 
 let this also stiffen. Put the lining in the mould, 
 and fill the space outside it, as far as the plain band 
 of the mould, with pink jelly. When this is stiff, 
 pour a little warm water into the lining to loosen 
 it. Withdraw it instantly, and fill the cavity with 
 white jelly or blancmange. When this is set, fill 
 the plain band of the mould with bright yellow 
 jelly. When this jelly is turned out it will represent 
 the Danish cross upon a golden ground. 
 
 To use the Star Mould. — Put the mould in ice, 
 then fill the circle at the top with bright red jelly. 
 When this is set, fill the smaller star with silver 
 jelly. Let this set, and fill the large star with red 
 ^gain. Put the lining into the mould, and fill the 
 space outside it, as far as the plain band of the 
 mould, with clear jelly. Withdraw the lining, and 
 fill the empty space with blancmange. When this 
 is perfectly stiff pour as much red jelly into the 
 band part of the mould as will fill it. When this 
 is quite stiff the jelly is ready to be turned out. 
 To turn the jelly out of the mould dip the mould 
 quickly in and out of boiling water. Shake it 
 gently, place a glass dish upon it, and turn it 
 carefully upside down. If necessary, give it a 
 sharp tap with a knife or spoon. 
 
 Moulds fob Raised Pies. — Moulds for raised 
 pies are made to' open, which renders it a compara- 
 tively easy task both to form the pie and to turn 
 it out when baked. The cost is about 6s. 6d. 
 
 Nutmeg Gsateb. — A nutmeg grater is made of 
 tin, perforated with holes, and presenting a rough 
 surface upon which nutmegs or whole ginger can 
 be rubbed to powder. It generally constitutes a 
 portion of the spice-box. When bought separately 
 it can be procured for Id. or 2d. 
 
 Paste-boaed and Rolling Pin. — Pastry-boards 
 are plain smooth boards, upon which pastry can 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 1109 
 
 be rolled. They are generally made of Common 
 wood, but the best kinds are made of boxwood. 
 Even these, however, are not to be compared with 
 marble slabs. Pastry-boards should be kept 
 scrupulously clean, should be scrubbed well every 
 time they are used, and should be hung in a dry 
 situation where they will be in no danger of mildew- 
 ing. Probable cost of pastry-board and roller, 
 from 2s. 6d. 
 
 Paste Jaooeb and Corneb Cuttek. — These 
 utensils are used for trimming and cutting pastry. 
 The wheel which is placed at the end of the pastry 
 jagger is used to mark pastry which is to be divided 
 after it is baked. Probable cost, Is. 
 
 Patty-pans. — These little pans, which are used 
 for baking tarts, cheesecakes, etc., are made of 
 tin. They may be procured of all shapes and 
 sizes. Probable cost, Is. or Is. 6d. per dozen. 
 
 Pepper Mill. — A pepper mill can be so regu- 
 lated that the pepper shall be either fine or coarse. 
 Probable cost, 4s. 3d. ; if made of steel, 22s. 6d. 
 
 Pestles and Mortars. — ^These utensils are used 
 to pound various ingredients, and are exceedingly 
 useful in cookery. They are sold made of both 
 brass and iron, but these are neither so sweet, nor 
 are they so easily kept clean, as when made either of 
 marble or Wedgwood-ware. They should be 
 washed and dried perfectly each time they are 
 used. Probable cost, lis. 6d. 
 
 Plate Rack. — A plate rack is a convenient article 
 used in washing plates and dishes. The plates 
 should be first scraped, then washed in hot water 
 with a little soda, and wiped with the dish-cloth, 
 rinsed in cold water, and drained on the rack. In 
 a short time they can be taken down and put away, 
 and will present a bright shiny surface, without any 
 of those streaks showing the marks of the dish-cloth, 
 which are enough to take the edge off the keenest 
 appetite. The water in which plates are washed 
 should be changed frequently. Probable cost of 
 plate rack, 12s. 
 
 Plate' Warmers. — Plate warmers are stands 
 constructed for the purpose of heating plates that 
 are to be used at table. They are made in various 
 shapes, and are placed before the fire in such a 
 position that they catch the heat which radiates 
 from it. Many modem ranges are made with a, 
 shelf, upon which plates can be put, and this dis- 
 penses with the necessity of a separate plate 
 warmer. Probable cost, from 16s. 
 
 Potato Pasty Pan. — This pan is shaped 
 something like a baking-dish, and it is made with 
 a perforated plate, with its valve-pipe. screwed on. 
 A delicate and savoury preparation mav be prepared 
 
 in it. For instructions aM to its uSe, see Potato 
 Pasty, Modern. Probable cost, 4s. or 4s. 6d. 
 
 Potato Steamers. — A potato steamer is a pan 
 with a, perforated tin bottom, which is made to 
 fit closely into an iron saucepan below it. The 
 potatoes are placed in the upper pan, and are 
 cooked by the steam which rises from the boiling 
 water in the lower one. There is an improved 
 steamer which is made with a handle, which can be 
 drawn out when the potatoes are done enough, 
 thus allowing the steam,. to» escape, so that the 
 heat from below dries - the potatoes already 
 cooked. Probable cost of improved steamer, 7s. 
 to 8s. 
 
 Pbbser VINO Pans. — Preserving pans are generally 
 made of copper. They are used for making jams, 
 jellies, and marmalade. They should be cleaned 
 with scrupulous care each time they are used. 
 Euamel-hned iron pans are now much used for 
 preserving. They are much cheaper than copper 
 or " brass " pans, and will last for years if carefully 
 used. If put upon the stove empty, or if over- 
 heated, the enamel will crack. Probable cost of , 
 copper or brass preserving pan 10 inches across, 
 12s. 6d. ; the price increasing with the size. 
 Enamel-hned iron pans will be less than half this 
 cost. 
 
 Pudding Cloths. — Pudding cloths should Ve 
 kept scrupulously clean, otherwise they may impart 
 an unpleasant taste to the pudding. As soon as 
 they are done with they should be thrown into 
 water, and allowed to soak until they are washed. 
 Very hot water, but no soap, should be used in 
 washing them. They should be dried out of doors, 
 and kept in a dry clean place. Pudding cloths are 
 sometimes made of thick, soft cord, loosely knitted, 
 and these mark the pudding boiled in them, and 
 give it a pretty appearance. In order to prevent 
 a pudding which is boiled in a cloth from sticking 
 to the bottom of a saucepan, a plate or saucer 
 should be placed underneath it. Puddings which 
 are steamed do not need to be boiled in a cloth. 
 They are put into a well-greased basin or mould 
 with a piece of buttered kitchen paper laid over 
 them. The basin ?nay then be placed in a stewpan 
 with boihng water two inches deep. Steamed 
 puddings are hghter than boiled ones, but they 
 take longer to cook. 
 
 Raisin Seeder. -^This ingenious utensil re- 
 moves the seeds from raisins without waste. The 
 raisins are put into a hopper, a handle is turned, 
 and the seeds fall out into one receptacle and 
 the stoned fruit into another. Probable c(^st of 
 seeder, from 5s. 
 
1110 
 
 CAS8ELLS NEW DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. 
 
 Ranges, Kitchen — The very first point that it 
 is necessary for us to consideicJs the advantages 
 and disadvantages of open and shut stoves. 
 
 One of th&chlef points in favour of all close ranges 
 is that there is no fear of any of the dishes cooked 
 on them.Jtieing sent to table smoky. Secondly, a far 
 greater number of saucepans can be kept hot on a 
 close range than on an open fire, and it is far more 
 easy to regulate the heat. Too often in open fire- 
 places, when saucepans are left for a short time they 
 will boil over. Thirdly, in using close ranges the out- 
 sides of the saucepans do not get covered with soot, 
 as is necessarily the case in open fireplaces. The 
 best close ranges are also fitted up with a rack over 
 the top for warming plates. 
 
 In roasting joints care should be taken that a 
 current of air passes through the oven or roaster 
 while the meat is cooking, as by this means that 
 peculiar greasy flavour, detected too often in meat 
 that has been baked, will be avoided. 
 
 Another purpose to which close stoves can be 
 turned is that of an ironing stove, and undoubtedly 
 close stoves for ironing purposes generally, but 
 especially for heating irons, possess enormous 
 advantages-, pver open grates. 
 
 There i^ one point in connection with stoves to 
 which we would call particular attention, and that 
 is the boiler. This latter indispensable part of 
 every stove should always be self-filUng, and 
 also should be made so that it can be easily got 
 at for the purpose of being cleaned. In shut stoves 
 it will generally be found that the boiler is more 
 accessible than in the old-fashioned open grates, 
 and this is another important advantage possessed 
 by the close range. 
 
 When boilers do not fill themselves they are very 
 apt to be forgotten by even careful servants, and 
 are almost certain to be neglected by the average 
 run of servants in the present day. You will there- 
 fore run the following risk. The boiler will get 
 empty and then hot. The servant finding it empty 
 will take a can of cold water, and without thinking 
 of the risk she is running, fill the boiler just as it is, 
 thereby cracking it probably, and doing some 
 pounds' worth of mischief. Again, you have a still 
 greater risk to run. Supposing the fire to have 
 been very fierce, and the boiler to have got red- 
 hot, then the water when poured into the boiler 
 by a careless servant gets quickly converted into 
 steam, and an explosion occurs that may be serious. 
 
 We will now name some of the disadvantages of 
 the close stoves. One of the most commonly felt 
 is perhaps the difficulty of airing clothes. The 
 close stoves, unless heated almost to redness, rarely 
 throw out sufficient heat to air Unen properly ; 
 
 and in families where there are many young children 
 the inconvenience is considerable, unless other fires 
 are lighted for the purpose. Secondly, close stoves 
 undoubtedly do not cook large joints, such as 
 haunches of mutton, equally well with large open 
 grates, owing to the fact that basting is so much 
 easier a process in the latter than in the former. 
 And basting is an important point in roasting, and 
 one that is too often overlooked. Another draw- 
 back to shut-up stoves, especially those in which the 
 fire is quite closed from view, is that servants are 
 apt to overlook the fire altogether, and let it go out. 
 In choosing close stoves, it is always as well to 
 guard against (hose whose chief merit seems to 
 consist in a number of ingenious contrivances, 
 such as regulating the flow of air, adapting the hot- 
 plate to different-sized saucepans, etc. Ash trays, 
 iron rings, knobs, etc., are all liable to break, and 
 some of these small stoves, that are not bricked into 
 the fireplace, but stand on four legs like a table, 
 wiU often be found very brittle, and are sometimes 
 even broken in being put up. They are also apt 
 to crack if, when hot, a little cold water is spilt on 
 them, and as this is an occurrence liable to happen 
 occasionally in every kitchen, of course these 
 stoves possess but little wear. 
 
 Salad Basket. — This is a wire basket of a pecu- 
 Uar form, used to shake salad in, so as to dry it 
 perfectly after it has been washed. In France 
 these baskets are in very general use. When they 
 are not at hand, the salad, after being washed, 
 should be put, a small quantity at a time, into a 
 clean dry cloth. This should be taken up by the 
 four corners and shaken till the salad is dry, when it 
 may be put into the salad bowl. An ingenious 
 person could twist a little wire to form a basket 
 which would answer the purpose intended. Prob- 
 able cost, 3s. to 4s. 6d. 
 
 Salamander. — A salamander is used to impart 
 It brown colour to any preparation wanting it. 
 The instrument is made red-hot, and is held close 
 to the preparation until it is sufficiently browned. 
 When a salamander is not at hand, a fire shovel 
 made red-hot can be made to answer the same 
 purpose. 
 
 Saucepans. — Saucepans are of various kinds, and 
 are made in all sizes. In a well-furnished kitchen 
 there is generally a complete set, with the sizes in 
 gradation, and the efficient cook prides herself 
 not only upon their perfect cleanliness inside, but 
 upon their bright and polished exteriors. Sauce- 
 pans are made of tinned copper, iron, plain or lined 
 with tin or enamel, tin, and earthenware. Of late 
 they have been made of seamless steel, coated 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 nil 
 
 with tia : it has all the advantages of tinned 
 copper, at the cost of wrought-iron. Those most 
 frequently used are made either of cast-iron or 
 of block-tin. Cast-iron saucepans are frequently 
 lined with enamel. With care they will last for 
 years. Block-tin ones also are very good, and 
 though not so durable, can be mended more 
 easily than iron ones. Small saucepans are made 
 of porcelain also. They are excellent for sauces 
 and very delicate preparations, and can be washed 
 like a plate. The objection to them is that they are 
 exceedingly brittle and crack very quickly. All 
 saucepans of whatever kind should be kept scrupu- 
 lously clean. They should be washed, scoured with 
 fine sand or ashes, and well rinsed each time they 
 are used. Tinned saucepans should be examined 
 frequently, and as soon as the tin shows any sign 
 of wearing off, they should be re-tinned. This is 
 t i especially necessary with copper saucepans, which, 
 when red, not only spoil the colour of anything 
 that is boiled in them, but make it poisonous. The 
 cost of saucepans is exceedingly variable, according 
 to size and quality. 
 
 Saw. — A meat saw is used for dividing the bonea 
 of a fresh joint. The meat will, of course, need to 
 be cut close to the bone before the saw can be 
 used. The saw should be carefully wiped when it 
 is done with, and hung in a dry, safe place, If any 
 damp gets to it, it will rust, and be quite spoilt. 
 Probable cost, from 3s. 9d. 
 
 Scales and Weights. — Although some cooks 
 are very proud of being able to make their dishes 
 " by guess," their method is not one which is to 
 be imitated, because it is not to be relied upon. 
 Preciseness in apportioning the ingredients to be 
 used is indispensable to the cook who would be 
 always successful, and therefore there is scarcely 
 a more important kitchen utensil than a set of 
 scales and weights. The weights should range from 
 J oz. to 7 lbs. They should be put away as soon as 
 they are used, as the small ones especially are very 
 easily lost, and they should be carefully kept in 
 regular order. When anything of a greasy nature 
 has to be weighed, it should be put upon a piece of, 
 paper, otherwise it will spoil the scale. Probable 
 cost, 10s. 6d. upwards. 
 
 Sieves. — Sieves of different kinds are very 
 essential kitchen utensils. There are hair sieves 
 and wire sieves ; the latter are the stronger, and 
 more durable, the former the finer of the two. All 
 purees ought to be rubbed patiently through a 
 sieve,, and various sauces are much improved by 
 being passed either through a sieve or a tamis. Wire 
 sieves are intended for materials which could not 
 
 be made to pass through a hair sieve. Probable 
 cost, hair sieve, from Is. ; brass-wire sieves, 4s. 
 
 Skewebs. — A set of skewers can be procured at a 
 very trifling cost. Those who have experienced 
 the inconvenience of being without these insignifi- 
 cant, but useful. Utile articles, will take care to 
 keep a supply on hand. 
 
 Spice Boxes. — Spice boxes are divided into 
 compartments in which the different kinds of 
 spices can be kept. The nutmegs are generally 
 put in the centre, in a box which forms the grater. 
 The assistance which it is to the cook to have in- 
 gredients of this kind in one place, yet separate, and 
 close at hand when wanted, can only be understood 
 by those who have known the hindrance which is 
 caused by a different arrangement. Probable cost, 
 3s., 4s., and 4s. 6d. 
 
 Spice Mill. — Ground spices soon lose their 
 strength, just as coffee does, hence a good house- 
 keeper will grind her own as wanted. There is 
 less risk of adulteration, ■ also, when whole spice is 
 bought. Price, from 3s. 6d. 
 
 Spit. — The spit is simply the bar from which the 
 joint is suspended when roasting. It should be 
 kept bright and clean, and should be carefully 
 wiped before being used. The meat should be 
 well balanced upon it, as otherwise it will not turn 
 steadily. When poultry or boned joints have to 
 be roasted, a cradle spit is to be preferred to the 
 ordinary spit, as the latter is sure to occasion the 
 escape of some of the juices by the necessary 
 perforation of the joint. In the cradle spit, the 
 meat instead of being pierced is held in a sort of 
 cradle. 
 
 SouM-Lf; Dishes. — These are usually made of 
 French fire-proof china, but are also to be had in 
 metal-ware. A set of three sizes should be ob- 
 tained. Price, from Is. 4d. 
 
 Steak Tongs. — Steak tongs are intended to turn 
 steaks or chops v/hen they are being broiled or 
 fried, without piercing the meat in any part, as 
 this causes the escape of the juices. When steak 
 tongs are notat hand, the cook should be particularly 
 careful in turning the steak to injure it as little as 
 possible. She should on no account stick a, fork 
 into the lean portion, as this would inevitably 
 make the meat dry and flavourless. Again, when 
 a chop or steak is cooked, the cook should never 
 cut it open to see if it is done, but should simply 
 judge from pinching it with the tongs. If it feels 
 what may be described as spongy outside, it is 
 evidently blue in the middle. The meat when 
 pinched should feel soft ; but neither hard, which 
 means over-cooked, or spongy, which means under- 
 
1112 
 
 CASSELLS NEW DICTIONAST OF COOKEBT. 
 
 done. When there are no tongs for the purpose, 
 the chop or Bteak is best turned by means of two 
 iron spoons. Probable cost of tongs, 2s. per pair. 
 
 Stbwpans. — A stewpan differs from a saucepan 
 in this, that it has a flat hd, with a handle, which 
 fits very closely into the pan, and thus prevents 
 the escape of the steam. Stewpans are made, like 
 saucepans, of different materials, and in various 
 sizes. They vary in price according to their 
 quality. They are generally made with straight 
 sides. (See Saucepans.) 
 
 Stock Pot. — Stock pots are made of tinned cop- 
 per, tinned iron, cast iron, and earthenware. The 
 two first are the best, because they are the most 
 easily cleaned. Tinned iron stock pots answer 
 their purpose just as well as copper ones, and are 
 much less expensive. Some stock pots are fitted 
 with a tap, by means of which a little clear liquid 
 X!an be drawn off without disturbing either the 
 sediment at the bottom or the scum which may be 
 at the top. Stock pots should be washed and 
 scoured with fine sand, and rinsed and dried each 
 time they are used. They should never be put 
 away dirty. The stock should on no account be 
 allowed to remain in them all night. The quahty 
 of the stock depends in a great measure upon the 
 cleanliness of the pot. Probable cost, copper stock 
 pots, from £1 14s. ; fitted with taps, from £3 15s. ; 
 tinned iron stock pots, from 17s. 6d. ; with taps, 
 from 30s. 
 
 Tamis. — A tamis or tammy cloth is a piece of 
 thin woollen canvas, used in straining soups and 
 sauces. Probable cost, 2s. 3d. each. 
 
 Tartlet-tins. — Tartlet-tins are made of tin, and 
 are used for baking the trimmings of pastry rolled 
 out smoothly and very thin. The jam is better 
 if it is spread on after the tartlet is baked. Small 
 ornaments of pastry which have been stamped 
 out with the cutter and baked separately, may be 
 laid on the jam. - Tartlet-tins should be oiled or 
 buttered before the pastry is put in. When they 
 are done with they should be scalded and dried, 
 and kept in a dry place. 
 
 Tea Kettle. — Tea kettles are made of copper, 
 "iron, and block-tin. Iron kettles are very durable, 
 but the water in them is a long time in coming to 
 the boil. Block-tin kettles boil quickly, but they 
 have not nearly so much wear in them as an iron 
 kettle. Block-tin kettles, with copper bottoms, 
 are perhaps better than any other, as they are 
 durable, and the water in them boils quickly. 
 Copper kettles are generally intended to be brought 
 into the dining-room. They should be cleaned 
 every day either with vitriol or with oil and emery- 
 
 powder. A tarnished copper kettle has a very bad 
 appearance. Frob3.bIe cost, block-tin kettle, 3s. 
 The price increases with the quality and size. 
 
 Turbot Kettle. — A turbot kettle is a fish kettle 
 made broad and shallow to suit the shape of the fish 
 for which it is intended. It is fitted with a strainer, 
 like an ordinary fish kettle. Price, from £1. 
 
 Vegetable Cutters are sold in boxes, and are 
 used to stamp vegetables into neat shapes for 
 garnishing dishes. The appearance of a dish is very 
 much improved if the turnips and carrots placed 
 round it are shaped, instead of being plainly 
 sliced. Probable cost, vegetable cutters, 3s. a box. 
 Vegetable scoops are sold for the same purpose. 
 They cost 6d. each. 
 
 Vegetable Back. — ^This is an open rack, made 
 of galvanised wire, in which vegetables may be 
 stored without fear of their exhalations becoming 
 disagreeable through being cooped up in a cup- 
 board. Price 12s. 6d. 
 
 Vegetable and Fruit Peesser. — This, although 
 more expensive at the beginning, is much better 
 than an ordinary sieve. A very good one is the 
 " Siv " fruit and vegetable presser, which is clean 
 
 siv vegetable and fruit presser. 
 
 and easy to work, and, above all, efftcient. This 
 machine can be brought into many different uses, 
 such as the making of soups, purees, puddings, 
 cakes, etc. Again, real fruit jellies can be made by 
 this machine, the juice and nutritious pulps being 
 easily extracted — also ketchups, tomatoes, mush- 
 rooms, in fact, any dishes of the above description 
 can be made quickly and thoroughly by this 
 machine. 
 
 Where the old sieve will take you hours of con- 
 tinual rubbing, the " Siv " presser will take 'only a 
 few minutes. One of the great features of the 
 " Siv " presser is that it automatically throws out 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 1113 
 
 all Bkins, seeds, or hard cores. It is not necessary 
 to skin the fruit or vegetable. They can be baked, 
 boiled, or steamed, thus retaining all the nutriment. 
 Price 7s. 6d. 
 
 Welbauk's BonjERETTE. — This cooker consists of 
 one pan fixed within another, there being no escape 
 for the steam from the outer vessel but by way of a 
 small spring safety valve which puts the pressure 
 upon the steam sufficient to raise the temperature 
 of the water in the outer vessel to ensure, not only 
 that the water shall actually boil in the inner vessel, 
 but that its temperature shall be raised above 
 212°. This result, it is well known, cannot be 
 approached in an ordinary double saucepan, for 
 in these the water will never boil, as the tempera- 
 ture cannot be raised above 200°. On this account 
 the double saucepans usually sold are imsatisfactory 
 for successful cookery, especially of porridge, as 
 oatmeal must be subjected to intense heat to 
 render it digestible. The Scotch fashion is to 
 sprinkle oatmeal into the porridge pan so that 
 every grain shall come iiito contact with the 
 boUing water. With the boilerette we are describing 
 there is no need for this tedious process. 
 
 In Welbank's boilerette the heat in the inner 
 vessel becomes very great, and the food is subjected 
 to intensified heat from the sides as well. The 
 result is all liquid foods are cooked quicker than 
 by any other method, with no danger of burning, 
 and as stirring is unnecessary, no attention is 
 required. 
 
 Meat, poultry, and vegetables are cooked in their 
 own juices, so that all their valuable salts, tonics, 
 minerals, and life-giving essences are retained in 
 all their fullness. As meat and poultry are subjected 
 to a. steady, continuous, and irresistible heat, the 
 tough becomes tender and very digestible. 
 
 For ordinary purposes, such as for stews, soups, 
 milk puddings, porridge, etc., use the boilerette the 
 same way as you would use an ordinary saucepan 
 or stewpan. It wiU do the work quicker, better, 
 cleaner, never bum the food, and will require no 
 attention. I 
 
 To use the boUerei/te, unscrew the cover of the 
 valve and with the aid of a funnel, or without, pour 
 into the outer vejisel the necessary quantity of 
 water. Now screw the valve cover home, and the 
 boilerette will be ready for use. Use hot water if 
 yoir hay Sit, as the boilerette will then be the 
 quicker ready for use. 
 
 Now put it on a fire, gas, or oil stove, and get it 
 to boil, which will be indicated by the steam issuing 
 from the valve. Gently issuing will be all sufficient 
 to keep the pot a-boiling. The boilerette is so 
 regulated that the steam gently issuing from valve 
 
 is a sure outward indication that the cooking 
 operations are going on aU right within. All you 
 have to do is to see that it keeps gently issuing. 
 Should the steam hiss out, simply turn the gas 
 down, or remove to a lesser heat. 
 
 You can pour out the contents of the boilerette 
 as easily as from another saucepan. To remove 
 any pressure of steam which might cause a little 
 water to come from the valve, raise central pin of 
 valve with a fork, or wait a, minute after removal 
 from the fire before pouring. 
 
 It is advisable always to empty the water that 
 remains in the outer vessel of the boilerette after 
 
 WELHANK.S BOILEBETTE. 
 
 using. This will help to preserve it, besides ensur- 
 ing that sufficient water will be put in each time 
 to last during cooking operations. When not in 
 use the boilerette should stand the right way up 
 on shelf. They are not so liable to rust this way up. 
 
 The boilerette should not be put on a fierce fire 
 or the gas turned up high to get it to boU. A moder- 
 ate amount of heat is quite sufficient to raise the 
 temperature of the water to the boiling point. 
 When it boils, indicated directly the steam comes 
 from the valve, a very little heat will suffice to keep 
 it boiling or to keep the steam issuing gently from 
 the valve. 
 
 Never unscrew the cover of the valve until the 
 water is off the boil. As the water is under pressure 
 it wiU squirt out like the liquid from a bottle of 
 ginger beer will when uncorked. About five minutes 
 after removal from fire the pressure will have 
 subsided, or by raising the central pin of valve 
 with tt knife or fork it can soon be ascertained 
 whether the steam is still under pressure. 
 
 To cook a complete dinner, put the specified 
 quantity of water in the outer vessel of the boilerette 
 
1114 
 
 cassell's new dictionary of cookeet. 
 
 and get it to the boil, indicated directly the steam 
 issues from the valve. Now put the meat or poultry 
 into the inner chamber and just before closing the 
 Ud pour half a teacup full of water in with the meat 
 and close the lid. Allow about two hours to cook, 
 and be sure to keep the lid closed until the time is 
 up. If you open the lid you will let out the heat, 
 and will never be able to raise the temperature 
 so high again. 
 
 After you put the meat in the boilerette, you can 
 add a suet or batter pudding. Now in the basket 
 place the vegetables, and just before closing the lid 
 add the half teacupf ul of water, and then close the 
 lid. Again let me remind you to keep it closed 
 until the dinner is required ; the average time to 
 allow is two hours with the steam issuing gently 
 from the valve all the time. If you are going to 
 leave the boilerette to " look after itself," be sure 
 that the steam issues very gently from the valve. 
 It can be left then for hovirs in safety to take care 
 of itself. 
 
 Whisk. — ^There are several kinds of egg whisks ; 
 the one generally used costs 6d. or 8d. Our grand- 
 mothers dispensed with an egg whisk altogether, and 
 
 used either a knife or a fork. Whatever whisk is 
 used, the white of eggs will never froth properly 
 unless the bowl into which they are broken is quite 
 cold, and unless they are perfectly free from the 
 IcEist speck of yolk. It is best to whisk them in a 
 cold place. 
 
 Wire Frying Basket. — This is a basket made of 
 wire to fit inside a frying pan; it is used to fry 
 parsley, herbs, and various vegetables, as well as 
 patties, croquettes, rissoles, and preparations of a 
 similar nature. The articles to be fried should be 
 put into the basket, and this should be plunged 
 quickly into hot fat, and withdrawn when they 
 are done enough. They will, of course, need to be 
 well drained. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. An 
 ingenious person could make a basket of twisted 
 wire which would answer the required purpose. 
 
 Wire Stand. — When meat is to be baked in the 
 oven, it should be placed on a wire stand in the 
 baking tin. This will keep it from having the 
 sodden taste which it would certainly get if it 
 were laid flat in the tin. If liked, potatoes or a 
 pudding can be baked under the meat. Probable 
 cost, 6d. 
 
 LISTS OF KITCHEN UTENSILS. 
 
 The following lists are given for the purpose of 
 assisting those who are about to furnish their 
 kitchens in selecting the necessary articles. With 
 kitchen utensils, as with everything else, the pur- 
 chaser must first consider the extent of his resources ; 
 and it is frequently the case that articles must be 
 dispensed with which everyone acknowledges it is 
 desirable to possess. The lists are made out for a 
 
 large, a medium, and a small set of kitchen utensils. 
 Whether the supply of. kitchen utensils be limited 
 or ample, it cannot be too strongly insisted upon 
 that they should be kept scrupulously clean. 
 Cleanliness is the soul of good cookery. It has been 
 already said that every utensil should be cleaned 
 properly each time it is used, and that not one 
 should ever be put away dirty. 
 
 ARTICLES TO BE FOUND IN A LARGE WELL-APPOINTED KITCHEN. 
 
 1 Large Wooden Meat Screen, with Hot Closet. 
 1 Basting Ladle. 
 
 1 Cradle Spit. 
 
 2 Polished Iron Meat Spits 
 2 Holdfasts for Joints. 
 
 1 Dripping Pan, with Well. 
 1 Meat Cleaver. 
 1 Saw. 
 
 1 Bottle Jack. 
 
 12 Stewpans, in sizes, 1 pint to 9 quarts. 
 6 Iron Saucepans, in sizes. 
 
 2 Iron Saucepans, with Steamers, 6 to 8 quarts. 
 2 Gridirons. 
 
 1 Bain-Marie, with 6 Stewpans, 1 Soup Pot, and 
 
 1 Glaze Pot. 
 1 Braising Pan, with Drainer and Fire Cover. 
 1 Digester. 
 1 Preserving Pan. 
 
 1 Preserving Spoon. 
 1 Sugar Boiler. 
 
 1 Fish Frier, with Drainer for Frying Fish. 
 
 2 Saute Pans. 
 1 Omelet Pan. 
 
 1 Tea Kettle. 
 
 2 Frying Baskets. 
 
 2 Fish Kettles, diflerent sizes, and 1 Fish Slicer. 
 1 Set Poultry Skewers. 
 
 1 Set Meat Skewers. 
 
 3 Cook's Knives. 
 
 12 Tinned-iron Spoons, in sizes. 
 
 1 Root Knife. 
 
 6 Tinned Meat Hooks. 
 
 2 Dishing-up Forks. 
 1 Pair Steak Tongs. 
 1 Cutlet Bat. 
 
 1 Chopping Board and Knife. 
 
APPENDIX, 
 
 1116 
 
 1 Trussing Needle. 
 
 
 
 3 Baking Sheets. 
 
 2 Larding Needles. 
 
 
 
 1 Marble Slab for Pastry. 
 
 1 Salamander. 
 
 
 
 1 Rolling Pin. 
 
 1 Toasting Fork. 
 
 
 
 1 Coflee Mill. 
 
 1 Weighing Machine and Weights, 
 
 to weigh up 
 
 1 Jelly Bag and Stand. 
 
 to 28 lb. 
 
 
 
 6 Jelly Moulds. 
 
 1 Marble Mortar and Hardwood Pestle. 
 
 3 Cake Moulds. 
 
 4 Hair Sieves. 
 
 
 
 3 Pudding Moulds. 
 
 1 Wire Basket for Salad. 
 
 
 
 1 Vegetable Mould. 
 
 1 Brass-wire Sieve. 
 
 
 
 1 Mincing Machine. 
 
 3 Block-tin Gravy Strainers, 
 
 difierent sizes. 
 
 1 Freezing Pot, 1 Freezing Pail, 
 
 1 Spice Box. 
 
 
 
 1 Ice Pudding Mould, or 
 
 1 Bread Grater. 
 
 
 
 1 Piston Freezing Machine. 
 
 1 Egg Whisk.. 
 
 
 
 1 Ice Closet. 
 
 1 Egg Slioer. 
 
 
 
 1 Corkscrew. 
 
 1 Dozen Patty-pans. 
 
 
 
 1 Block-tin Colander. 
 
 3 Tartlet-tins. ^ 
 
 
 
 1 Tin Funnel. 
 
 i Dozen Mince Pie Tins. 
 
 
 
 1 Flour Dredger. 
 
 1 Box Paste Cutters. 
 
 
 
 1 Sugar Dredger. 
 
 1 Paste Jagger. 
 
 
 
 3 French Vegetable Scoops. 
 
 1 Box Vegetable Cutters. 
 
 
 
 1 Filter. 
 
 1 Spatula, and 
 
 MEDIUM SEX. 
 
 1 Wooden Meat Screen. 
 
 1 Bottle Jack. 
 
 1 Dripping Pan and Stand. 
 
 1 Basting Ladle. 
 
 3 Iron Saucepans. 
 
 3 Block-tin Saucepans. 
 
 1 Large Boiler. 
 
 1 Iron Digester. 
 
 1 Iron Saucepan and Steamer. 
 
 1 Omelet Pan. 
 
 2 Sets of Skewers. 
 1 Hair Sieve. 
 
 1 Jelly Bag. 
 1 Flour Dredger. 
 1 Pair Steak Tongs. 
 1 Bread Grater. 
 1 Toasting Fork. 
 
 1 Kettle. 
 
 2 Larding Needles. 
 ^ Jelly Moulds. 
 
 2 Pudding Moulds. 
 2 Cake Moulds. 
 1 Meat Chopper. 
 
 1 Meat Screen, with Bottle Jack, Dripping Tin, 
 and Basting Ladle. 
 
 1 Digester. 
 
 2 Iron Saucepans. . 
 2 Iron Stewpans. 
 1 Boiler. 
 
 1 Fish Kettle and Sllcer. 
 1' Enamelled Saucepan. 
 1 Gridiron. 
 1 Frying Pan. 
 1 Omelet Pan. 
 1 Spice Box. 
 1 Filter. 
 
 1 Paste-board and Rolling Pin. 
 1 Flour Dredger. 
 12 Patty-pans. 
 
 2 Enamelled Stewpans. 
 
 1 Fish Kettle. 
 
 1 Fish and Egg Slicer. 
 
 1 Paste-board and Rolling Pin. 
 
 12 Patty-pans. 
 
 2 Tart Pans. 
 
 1 Paste Jagger. 
 
 1 Gridiron. 
 
 2 Frying Pans. 
 
 1 Chopping Board and Knife. 
 
 1 Set of Scales and Weights. 
 
 1 Filter. 
 
 1 Colander. 
 
 1 Spice Box. 
 
 6 Tinned-iron Spoons. 
 
 1 Funnel. 
 
 1 Gravy Strainer. 
 
 1 Box Cutters. 
 
 1 Coflee Mill. 
 
 1 Pestle and Mortar. 
 
 1 Saw. 
 
 1 Egg Whisk. 
 
 2 Baking Tins. 
 
 SMALL SET. 
 
 g Tin, 1 Hair Sieve. 
 
 1 Jelly Bag. 
 
 2 Pastry Cutters. 
 
 1 Chopping Board and Knife. 
 
 1 Colander. 
 
 1 Gravy Strainer. 
 
 1 Funnel. 
 
 1 Baking Tin. 
 
 1 Set of Skewers. 
 
 1 Set of Scales and Weights. 
 
 1 Jelly Mould. 
 
 1 Cake Mould. 
 
 1 Pudding Mould. 
 
 2 Large Iron Spoons. 
 
 1 Kettle. 
 
B.— SEASONABLE FOOD. 
 
 JANUARY. 
 
 Meat. — Beef, mutton, pork, house-lamb, doe- 
 yen ifion. 
 
 Game and Poultry. — Hares, rabbits, pbeasante, 
 ptarmigan, teal, partridges, woodcock, snipe, 
 fowls, chickens, capons, pullets, grouse, wild 
 fowl, turkeys, tame pigeons. 
 
 Fish. — Turbot, soles, flounders, plaice, skate, 
 barbel, bream, crayfish, dorys, ling, whitebait, 
 whiting, cod, haddocks, herrings, smelts, lam- 
 preys, oysters, lobsters, crabs, prawns, eels, carp, 
 tench, perch, mussels. 
 
 Vegetablef. — Cabbages, broccoli, savoys, endive, 
 sprouts, Scotch kale, sea-kale, spinach, lettuces, 
 celery, cardoons, carrots, parsnips, beetroot, sal- 
 sify, turnips, potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, 
 onions, leeks, garlic, shallots, mustard and cress, 
 cucumbers, mushrooms. Garden herbs, both dry 
 and green, being chiefly used in stuffing and soups, 
 and for flavouring and garnishing certain dishes, 
 are always in season : tarragon, chervil, savory, 
 mint, sage, thyme, parsley, etc., may be procured 
 all the year round. 
 
 Fruits. — Apples, pears, medlars, figs, raisins, 
 currants, prunes, grapes, walnuts, nuts, filberts, 
 almonds, oranges, lemons, melons, bananas, pomel- 
 loes, shaddocks. Preserved and dried fruits of 
 all kinds may be used throughout the winter, as 
 also jams, marmalades, and fruit jellies. 
 
 Especially in Season in January. — Haddocks, 
 whiting, tench, skate, hares, rabbits. 
 
 FEBRUARY. 
 
 Meat. — ^Beef, mutton, house-lamb, venison, pork. 
 
 Game and Poultry. — Hares, rabbits, pheasants, 
 capercailzie, plover, ptarmigan, prairie hen, par- 
 tridges, woodcock, snipe, pigeons, turkeys, fowls, 
 pullets, capons, chickens, green geeee, ducks, duck- 
 lings, wild ducks, wild geese, turkey poults. 
 
 Fish. — Floundere, brill, plaice, skate, soles, gur- 
 net, dorys, lobsters, scallops, turbot, codfish, 
 whiting, smelts, sturgeon, herrings, haddocks, 
 sprats, oysters, mussels, cockles, crabs, crayfish, 
 prawns, shrimps, barbel, carp, eels, perch, pike, 
 tench, trout, salmon-trout. 
 
 Vegetables. — Broccoli, cabbages, Brussels 
 sprouts, savoys, celery, cardoons, lettuces, endive, 
 spinach, sorrel, forced French beans, potatoes, 
 carrots, parsnips, turnips, beetroot, chervil, 
 cress, and all small salads, tarragon, scorzonera, 
 cucumbers, mushrooms, onions, parsley, sage, 
 
 shallots, thyme, mint, and all garden herbs, fresh 
 or dried, Jerusalem artichokes, dried peas, and 
 beans. 
 
 Fruits. — ^Apples, pears, grapes, oranges, bana- 
 nas, pomelloes, shaddocks, almonds, nuts, chest- 
 nuts, walnuts, figs, raisins, currants, filberts, 
 prunes, all sorts of preserved and dried fruits, 
 jams, marmalades, and fruit jellies, and forced 
 strawberries. 
 
 Especially in Season in February, — Skate, tench, 
 dates, ducklings, turkey poults, green geeee. 
 
 MARCH. 
 
 Meat. — Beef, veal, mutton, house-lamb, pork, 
 doe- venison. 
 
 Game and Poultry. — Fowls, chickens, turkeys, 
 quails, prairie hen, widgeon, ducks, pigeons, rab- 
 bits, guinea-fowl, woodcock, snipe. 
 
 Fish. — Turbot, whiting, soles, plaice, flounders, 
 dorys, haddocks, gurnet, skate, oysters, lobsters, 
 crabs, prawns, crayfish, cod, smelts, eels, carp (till 
 15th), tench, mullet, mackerel, mussels. 
 
 Vegetables. — Savoys, cabbages, sprouts, spinach, 
 lettuces, radishes, turnips, carrots, parsnips, Jeru- 
 salem artichokes, potatoes, mushrooms, parsley 
 and other garden herbs, onions, leeks, Scotch kale, 
 broccoli, scorzonera, beet, salsify, sea-kale, chives, 
 celery, cress, mustard, sorrel, horse-radish, rhu- 
 barb, shallots, cucumbers. 
 
 Fruit. — Apples, pears, oranges, forced straw- 
 berries, dried and preserved fruits as in February. 
 
 Especially in Season in March. — Mackerel, 
 mullet, skate, whiting, prawns, and tench. 
 
 APRIL. 
 
 Meat. — Beef, mutton, grass-lamb, house-lamb, 
 veal, pork. 
 
 Game and Poultry.— FuWeta, chickens, fowls, 
 quails, ruffs and reeves, green geese, ducklings, 
 pigeons, wood pigeons, rabbits, leverets, turkey 
 poults. 
 
 Fish. — Chub, carp, brill, cockles, conger-eels, 
 bass, plaice, cod, crabs, dorys, flounders, eels, hali- 
 but, ling, herrings, lobsters, mullet, mackerel, 
 mussels, perch, oysters, pike, plaice, salmon, 
 prawns, shrimps, skate, smelt, tench, sturgeon, 
 soles, trout, whiting, turbot. 
 
 Vegetahlet. — Asparagus, beans, fennel, endive, 
 broccoli, cucumbers, chervil, lettuces, parsley, 
 onions, peas, rhubarb, turnips, sorrel, sea-kale. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 HIT 
 
 radishes, spinach, turnip-tops, small salad, 
 parsnips. 
 
 Fruita.— Apples, 'oranges, pears, early straw- 
 berries, walnuts. 
 
 Eapecially in Season in April.— Salmon, tench, 
 prawns, crabs, lobsters, grass-lamb, asparagus, 
 cucumbers. 
 
 MAY. 
 
 Meat.— Beet, mutton, house-lamb, grass-lamb, 
 pork, veal. 
 
 Game and Poultry. — Fowls, pigeons, pullets, 
 plovers' eggs, ducklings, chickens, green geese, 
 wood pigieons, rabbits, leverets. 
 
 Fish. — Eels, oonger-eels, carp, cod, crabs, bass, 
 dace, brill, floundens, ling, lobsters, mackerel, 
 perch, mullet, prawns, plaice, pike, salmon, smelts, 
 shrimps, whiting, chub, crayfish, gurnet, dorys, 
 haddocks, herrings, halibut, turbot, trout, soles, 
 sturgeon, tench. 
 
 Vegetables. — Cabbage, carrots, asparagus, kid- 
 ney beans, chervil, turnips, spinach, sorrel, sea- 
 kale, lettuces, peas, rhubarb, corn salad, cucum- 
 bers, cauliflowers, radishes, onions, artichokes, new 
 potatoes, salads generally. 
 
 Fruits. — Apples, pears, cherries, currants, scarlet- 
 strawberries, gooseberries, melons, apricots 
 (forced). 
 
 Especially in Season in May, — Salmon, prawns, 
 lobsters, crabs. 
 
 JUNE. 
 
 Meat. — ^Beef, veal, mutton, grass-lamb, buck- 
 yenison. 
 
 Game and Poultry. — Fowls, chickens, pullets, 
 ortolans, plovers' eggs, mfe and reeves, ducklings, 
 green geese, turkey poults, pigeons, leverets, 
 rabbits. 
 
 Fish. — Salmon, turbot, soles, mackerel, trout, 
 crabs, pike (after 15th), carp (after 15th), eels, 
 tench (after 15th), lobsters, prawns, shrimps, 
 mullet, haddocks, sturgeon, whitebait. 
 
 Vegetables. — Cauliflowers, spinach, potatoes, 
 beans, peas, artichokes, asparagus, carrots, par- 
 snips, turnips, lettuces, cucumbers, onions, 
 radishes, cresses, and all kinds of salads and 
 garden herbs, sorrel, white beet, horse-radish, 
 rhubarb, vegetable marrow. 
 
 Fruits. — Gooseberries, currants, cherries, straw- 
 berries, apricots, peaches, various kinds of apples, 
 pears and nectarines, grapes, pineapples, melons. 
 
 For Pickling. — Garlic. 
 
 For Drying. — Orange thyme, burnet, mint, tar- 
 ragon. 
 
 Especially in Season in June. — Salmon, salmon- 
 trout, 6kat«, prawns, whitebait, lobsters, crabs, 
 grass-lamb, vegetable marrow. 
 
 JULY. 
 
 Meat. — Beef, mutton, grass-lamb, house-lamb, 
 veal, buck-venison. 
 
 Game and Poultry. — Tame rabbits, wild rabbits, 
 goslings, ruffs and reeves, leverets, fowls, chickens, 
 pullets, pigeons, green geese, turkey poults, ducks, 
 wood pigeons. 
 
 Fish. — Eels, dace, dorys, conger-eels, cod, red 
 and grey mullet, carp, brill, .barbel, crabs, cray- 
 fish, flounders, herrings, haddocks, mackerel, ling, 
 lobsters, trout, thornback, plaice, pike, soles, 
 salmon, tench, gurnet, perch, dabs, prawns, 
 whiting. 
 
 Vegetables. — Kidney, Windsor, and scarlet 
 beans, asparagus, artichokes, celery, endive, car- 
 rots, chervil, lettuces, mushrooms, potatoes, peas, 
 salsify, spinach, sorrel, radishes, salad, turnips. 
 
 For Pickling.— French beans, red cabbage, 
 cauliflowers, gherkins, oucumbere, onions, radish 
 pods, nasturtiums, garlic. 
 
 For Drying.— Sa,]eify, knotted marjoram, sum- 
 mer and winter savory. 
 
 Fruits. — Apples, pears, oranges, pineapples, 
 cherries, currants, damsons, melons, gooseberries, 
 strawberries, raspberries, plums, peaches, nec- 
 tarines. 
 
 Especially in Season in July, — Grass-lamb, crabs, 
 dace, mackerel, lobsters, herrings, prawns, sal- 
 mon, plovers, chickens, green geese, damsons. 
 
 AUGUST. 
 
 Meat. — Beef, mutton, grass-lamb, veal, buck- 
 venieon. 
 
 Game and Poultry. — Grouse (from 12th), pullets, 
 fowls, pigeons, green geese, turkey poults, 
 chickens, ducks, moor game, plovers, turkeys, 
 wild ducks, pigeons, wheatears, rabbits, leverets. 
 
 Fish. — Turbot, whiting, eels, oonger-eels, dabs, 
 4ace, salmon, tench, thornback, flounders, perch, 
 haddocks, herrings, lobsters, crabs, pike, plaice, 
 barbel, carp, oysters, prawns, gurnet, brill, cod, 
 crayfish, mackerel, mullet, soles. 
 
 Vegetables, — French, kidney, Windsor, and scar- 
 let beans, carrots, artichokes, onions, lettuces, 
 cauliflowers, cucumbers, peas, salsify, radishes, 
 salads generally, mushrooms, potatoes, shallots; 
 turnips, spinach, leeks, endive. 
 
 Fruits. — ^Apples, pears, -peaches, plums, green- 
 gages, damsons, cherries, currants, raspberries, 
 gooseberries, grapes, figs, melons, nectarines, 
 filberts, mulberries. 
 
 For Pickling. — Red cabbage, walnuts, capsi- 
 cums, chillies, tomatoes. 
 
 For Drying, — Thyme, basil, sage. 
 
 Especially in Season in August, — Turbot, 
 mackerel, pike, perch, prawns, dace, crabs, her- 
 rings, lobsters, grouse, greengages, filberts, figs. 
 
1118 
 
 CASSELL'S NEW DICTIONARY OF COOKERY, 
 
 SEPTEMBER. 
 
 Meat. — Beef, veal, mutton, lamb, and buck- 
 venison. 
 
 Game and Poultry. — Fowls, pullets, chickene, 
 geese, wild ducks, partridges, grouse, pigeons, 
 hares, rabbits, turkey poults, woodcock, widgeon, 
 larks. 
 
 Fish. — Cod, haddocks, floundere, plaice, mullet, 
 salmon, soles, lobsters, oysters, prawns, carp, 
 tench, pike, perch, herrings, brill, turbot, crabs, 
 eels, dace. 
 
 Vegetables. — Potatoes, cauliflowers, cabbages, 
 turnips, peae, beans, artichokes, carrots, onions, 
 mushrooms, lettuces, sorrel, celery, beet, scor- 
 zonera, salsify, leeks, thyme, sage, pennyroyal, 
 marjoram, and most salads and sweet herbs. 
 
 Fruits. — Apples, pears, plums, cherries, peaches, 
 grapes, strawberries, melons, pines, walnuts, fil- 
 berts, hazel-nuts, quinces, medlars, currants, dam- 
 sons, figs. 
 
 Especially in Season in September. — Pike, perch, 
 lobsters, dace, crabs, mussels, hares, moor game, 
 partridges, grouse, wild ducks. 
 
 OCTOBER. 
 
 Meat. — Beef, veal, mutton, lamb, doe-venison, 
 pork. New Zealand lam'b. 
 
 Game and Poultry. — Gleese, turkeys, fowls, pul- 
 lets, chickens, wild ducks, widgeon, teal, wood- 
 cock, larks, grouse, pheasants, partridges, pigeons, 
 snipe, hares, rabbits. 
 
 Fish. — Oysters, lobsters, crabs, brill, gurnet, 
 crayfish, scallops, whiting, salmon-trout, dorys, 
 smelts, halibut, gudgeon, barbel, perch, carp, 
 tench, herrings, eels, hake, pike, dace. 
 
 Vegetables. — Turnips, potatoes, cabbages, cauli- 
 flowers, carrots, parsnips, }>ean6, peas, onions, 
 leeks, spinach, endive, celery, salsify, scorzonera, 
 cardoons, beet, parsley, mushrooms, salads, sweet 
 herbs, garlic, shallots. 
 
 Fruits. — Pears, peaches, apples, plums, figs, 
 medlars, grapes, walnuts, filberts, nuts, quinces, 
 damsons, pines. 
 
 Especially in Season in October. — Dace, pike, 
 lake, dorys, partridges, pheasants, widgeon, 
 broccoli, truflSes, grapes, medlars, tomatoes, hazel- 
 nuts. 
 
 NOVEMBER. 
 
 Meat. — Beef, veal, mutton, pork, doe-venison, 
 New Zealand lamb. 
 
 Game and Poultry. — Hares, rabbits, pheasants, 
 partridges, geese, fowls, pullets, turkeys, wild 
 ducks, teal, widgeon, woode(5ck, snipe, larks, 
 pigeons, grouse. 
 
 Fish. — Oysters, lobsters, crabs, salmon-trout, 
 scallops, dorys, soles, smelts, gurnet, brill, hali- 
 but, barbel, carp, pike, tench, cockles, mussels, 
 turbot, herrings, sprats, haddocks, whiting, skate, 
 cod, eels, dace. 
 
 Vegetables. — Carrots, parsnips, turnips, pota- 
 toes, onions, leeks, shallots, Jerusalem artichokes, 
 cabbages, broccoli, savoys, spinach, beet, car- 
 doons, chervil, endive, lettuces, salsify, scorzonera, 
 Scotch kale, celery, mushrooms, tarragon, parsley, 
 salads, and sweet herbs. 
 
 Fruits. — Apples, pears, quinces, grapes, walnuts, 
 chestnuts, filberts, nuts, figs, grapes, raisins. 
 
 Especially in Season in November. — Pike, tench, 
 plaice, dorys, sprats, grouse, geese, hares, snipe, 
 woodcock, teal, chestnuts. 
 
 DECEMBER. 
 
 Meat. — Beef, veal, mutton, pork, doe-venison. 
 New Zealand lamb. 
 
 Game and Poultry. — Hares, rabbits, pheasants, 
 grouse (till 10th), partridges, woodcock, snipe, 
 capercailzie, fowls, chickens, pullets, turkeys, 
 geese, wild geese, ducks, wild ducks, teal, widgeon, 
 larks, capons, pea-fowl. 
 
 Fish. — Sturgeon, turbot, soles, skate, codfish, 
 brill, eels, flounders, plaice, haddocks, smelts, 
 dorys, gurnet, herrings, sprats, oysters, mussels, 
 cockle, lobsters, crabs, and shellfish in general, 
 perch, carp, eels, dace, ling. 
 
 Vegetables. — Cabbages, broccoli, savoys, Brus- 
 sels sprouts, Scotch kale, sea-kale, spinach, endive, 
 cardoons, lettuces, skirret, salsify, scorzonera, 
 sorrel, potatoes, turnips, parsnips, carrots, beet- 
 root, Jerusalem artichokes, celery, peas, haricot 
 beans, leeks, onions, shallots, mushrooms, horse- 
 radish, parsley, tliyme, tarragon, chervil, mint, 
 sage, small salads. 
 
 Fruits. — Apples, pears, medlars, grapes, figs, 
 chestnuts, almonds, filberts, nuts, walnuts, raisins, 
 currants, prunes, and all sorts of preserved and 
 dried fruits, jams, marmalades, and fruit jellies. 
 
 Especially in Season in December. — Haddocks, 
 tench, dace, cod, dorys, ling, skate, turbot, capons, 
 pea-fowl, turkeys. 
 
C— GLOSSARY OF TERMS USED IN COOKERY. 
 
 AlGUlLLE.^ — A metal iskewer used to truss fowls, 
 meat, and game. 
 
 A LA. — After the style or fashion of; such as 
 a la Frangaise, French style ; a la Russe, Russian 
 style; a I'lmperatrioe, Empress style; a I'Anglaise, 
 English style. 
 
 Aspic. — A savoury jelly. 
 
 AssAisoHNER.— To season or flavour. 
 
 AssiETTES. — Small entrees not more than a plate 
 will contain. 
 
 Atelet. — A small silver skewer. 
 
 Au Bleu. — A French term applied to fish boiled 
 in white wine with flavourers. 
 
 Atj Geas. — Dressed with meat gravy. 
 
 Au Jus. — In the natural juice, or gravy. 
 
 Au Natueel. — Plain, simple cookery. 
 
 Baba. — Very light plum-cake, or sweet French 
 yeast cake. 
 
 Bain-Maeie. — An open vessel which has a loose 
 bottom for the reception of hot water. It is used 
 to keep sauces nearly at the^oiling point without 
 reduction or burning. 
 
 Babbecue. — To diess and roast an animal whole. 
 
 Basde. — A thin slice of bacon fat placed over 
 any substance requiring the assistance of fat 
 without larding. 
 
 Batteeie de Cuisine. — Complete set of cooking 
 apparatus. 
 
 Bavaeoise a l'eau. — Tea sweetened with syrup 
 of capillaire, and flavoured with n little orange- 
 flower water. 
 
 Bavaeoise au Lait. — Made in the same way as 
 the above, but with equal quantities of milk and 
 tea. 
 
 Beaknaise. — ^A rich wine sauce. The word is 
 derived from Beam, the birthplace of Henry IV., 
 who was a great gourmet. 
 
 BECHAMEL. — A rich white French sauce. 
 
 Beionet, or Peittee. {See Feittee.) 
 
 BieAEEEB. — To stick pieces of fat, truffles, ham, 
 or tongue into a fowl, fish, or game, to give 
 diversified colours to the meat. 
 
 Bisque. — A soup made of shellfish. 
 
 Blanc— White broth used to give a more deli- 
 cate appearance to the flesh of fowl, Iamb, etc. 
 
 Blanch.— Placing anything on the fire in cold 
 water until it boils, and, after straining it off, 
 plunging it into cold water for the purpose of 
 rendering it white. Used to whiten poultry, 
 vegetables, etc. 
 
 Blanquette. — A fricassee usually made of thin 
 elioee of whit© meat, with white sauce thickened 
 with egg yolk. 
 
 Blond.— A white stock from which sauces and 
 gravies are made. 
 
 Blonde de Veau.— Double veal broth used to 
 enrich soups and sauces. 
 
 BoucHEEB. — Small puff-paste patties, small 
 enough to be a mouthful only. 
 
 Boudin. — A delicate compound made of quenelle 
 forcemeat. 
 
 Bouilli. — Beef which has been boiled in making 
 broth. 
 
 Bouillie. — A French dish resembling that called 
 hasty pudding. 
 
 Bouillon. — The common soup of France. 
 
 Bouquet of Heeb.s. — Parsley, thyme, and green 
 onions tied together. 
 
 Bouquet Gaeni. — The same thing as Fagot, [See 
 Fagot.) 
 
 Boueguignote. — A ragout of truffles. 
 
 Beaise. — Meat cooked in a closely-covered stew- 
 pan to prevent evaporation, so that the meat 
 retains not only its own juices, but those of any 
 other articles, such as bacon, herbs, roots, and 
 spice, put with it. 
 
 Beaisiere. -A saucepan with ledges to the lid, 
 so that it will contain firing, in order that heat 
 may be applied from the top as well as from below. 
 
 Beidee. — To keep in shape with string, or to 
 truss with needle and thread. 
 
 Beioche. — A spongecake somewhat similar to 
 Bath buns. 
 
 Beouille. — Scrambled eggs. 
 Beunoise. — A clear soup with vegetables. 
 BuissoN. — A cluster or bush of small pastry 
 piled on a dish. 
 
 Calipash.— The glutinous portion of the turtle 
 found in the upper shell. 
 
 Calipee. — The glutinous meat of thcj turtle's 
 under-shell. 
 
 Oanap^ — -A round crouton with A puree on it ; a 
 small savoury. 
 
 CANAEDT^^^^uck. 
 
 Canaed Savage.— Wild duck. 
 
 Caneton. — Duckling. 
 
 Cannelons. — Small rolls or collars of mincemeat, 
 or of rice and pastry with fruit. 
 
 Capilotade. — ^A hash of poultry. 
 
 Caeamel. — Sugar boiled until it becomes of 8 
 dark brown colour. 
 
 Casserole. — A porpelain or earthenware vessel 
 with a closely-fitting lid, in which various meats 
 are cooked en casserole. Literally, it means a 
 stewpan. The term is also applied to a border of 
 rice or potatoes enclosing a stew or fricassee. 
 
 Civet. — A dark, thickish stew of hare or venison. 
 
 CLAEipy, To.— To clear any liquid. To clarify 
 stock, finely minced raw meat and the whites of 
 eggs are generally used. 
 
1120 
 
 CASSELL'S NEW DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. 
 
 Clodteb. — To insert small nail-shaped pieces of 
 truffle, bacon, or tongue, into fowl, veal, sweet- 
 breads, etc, 
 
 Colbert. — A French clear soup and other dishes 
 a la Colbert, named after John Baptiste Colbert, 
 a statesman of the reign of Louis XIV. 
 
 COMPIEONE. — Sweet French yeast cake, with fruit. 
 
 Compote. — Fruite stewed in syrup. ThSre are 
 also compotes of small birds. 
 
 CoNCASSEK. — Coaisely pounded. 
 
 CONCOMBEE. — Cucumber. 
 
 CoNDE. — Several soups and entrees are styled 
 a la Cond^, after Prince Louis de Conde, a famous 
 seventeenth century epicure. 
 
 CoNFiTUEES. — Sweetmeats of sugars, fruits, 
 syrups, and essences. 
 
 CoNSOMM^. — Strong, clear giravy obtained by 
 stewing meat for a considerable length of time. 
 
 COQTjiLLES. — Light fish or meat entrees, served 
 in shells. 
 
 CoTELETTES. —Cutlets. Small slices of meat out 
 from the neck of veal, mutton, lamb, or pork. 
 
 COULIS, or CuLLis. — A rich, smooth gravy used 
 for colouring, flavouring, and thickening certain 
 soups and sauces. 
 
 CouEONNE, En. — To serve any articles of food 
 on a dish in the shape of a crown. 
 
 CouET-BouiLLON. — A broth in which fish has 
 been boiled. A highly seasoned fish stock. 
 
 CouTiSEE. — To insert small strips or pieces of 
 ham, bacon, truffle, etc. into fillets of fish, poultry, 
 or game, the holes to repeive them being made 
 with the point of a skewer. 
 
 Crepes. — French pancakes. 
 
 Cbevettes. — Prawns, shrimps. 
 
 Croquettes. — A savoury mince of fish, meat, or 
 fowl, made with a little sauce into various shapes, 
 rolled in egg and bread-crumbs, and fried crisp. 
 
 Ceoustaoles. — ^Also known as Dresden patties. 
 They are composed of mince encased in paste, 
 and moulded into various forms. 
 
 Ceoustades.— Fried forms of bread to serve 
 minces or other meats upon. 
 
 CRoftTON.— A sippet of bread fried, and used 
 for garnish. 
 
 Cuisine.— The kitchen; cookery, 
 
 CuissON.— A method of slowly cooking meat. 
 It is finished off by cooking in its own juice whilst 
 in the oven. 
 
 CniBSOT.— The haunch. 
 
 CULINAIEE.— This word is applied to anything 
 connected with the art of cooking. 
 
 Daeioles.— Moulds in which small entree pStes 
 are baked or steamed. 
 
 Daene.— The middle out of large fish. 
 
 Daube.— Meat or poultry stewed in sauce. 
 
 DAUBifeBE. — An oval-shaped stewpan. 
 
 Dauphinb.— A kind of garnish. 
 
 D^jeoneh.— Breakfast. 
 
 DferEUNEB A LA FouBCHBTTE.— A meat breakfast 
 or luncheon. 
 
 Demi-glace. — The name of a rich brown sauce; 
 also of a French cre^m ice. 
 
 Desosser. — To bone. 
 
 Dess^ceeb. — To stir a, puree or pulp with a 
 wooden spoon whilst on the fire, until it becomes 
 loosened from the pan. 
 
 Diable, A LA. — ^Devilled ; applied to dishes with 
 sharp and hot seasoning. 
 
 DiNDE, DiNDON. — Turkey. 
 
 DoRNU. — Yolks of eggs well beaten, for brush- 
 ing over pies, pastry, etc. 
 
 DuxELLES. — A mixture of chopped mushrooms, 
 shallots, parsley, etc., used for flavouring sauces. 
 
 EoHALOTE. — Shallot ; a sort of mild onion used 
 for flavouring. 
 
 EcHAUDER. — To steep in boiling water; as in 
 done with fowl or game to facilitate the removal 
 of feathers or hair. 
 
 Eclair. — A French pastry filled with cream. 
 
 Emince. — Finely shredded or sliced. 
 
 Entreo6te. — A steak cut from the middle part 
 of the rib of beef. 
 
 Entrees. — The corner dishes used to be thus 
 termed, but the name is now applied to the made 
 dishes served before the roast. 
 
 EntreSi^ts.^ — Dishes of vegetables or sweets- 
 served as second course. 
 
 fepiCE. —Spice. 
 
 Escalopes. — Collops. 
 
 Espaonole. — A rich brown Spanish sauce. 
 
 Estouffade, or Btuvee. — A method of cooking 
 meats slowly in a covered stewpan. 
 
 Esteagon.- Tarragon. 
 
 EtoufpiS. — Stewed in the oven. 
 
 Fagot. — ^A small bunch of parsley and savoury 
 herbs tied^up with a bay-leaf. 
 
 Faisan. — Pheasant. 
 
 Fanchonnettes. — Small custard tartlets. 
 
 Faroe. — Forcemeat. 
 
 Feoule. — A fine flour used for binding soups and 
 sauces. 
 
 Feuilletage. — Puff paste. 
 
 Filet.— Fillet. The centre part of a loin of 
 beef, mutton, veal, pork, and venison. The boned 
 breasts of poultry and the boned sides of fish are 
 also called fillets. 
 
 FiNANCiiRE.— An expensive, highly flavoured, 
 mixed ragout. 
 
 FlNES-HEEBES. — ^A Combination of finely chopped 
 fresh herbs, frequently used in omelets and sauces. 
 
 Flamande, .n. LA. — Flemish style. 
 
 Flamber. — ^To singe poultry or game. 
 
 Flan.— A French custard. 
 
 Flancs. — The side dishes of large dinners. 
 
 FoiE Gras.— Fat goose liver. 
 
 Fond. — Strong gravy or meat stock. 
 
 Fondue. — A preparation of melted cheese. 
 
 FRANfAlSB, A la.— French style. 
 
 Feundines. — Small patties containing minoo. 
 
 Feicandeaux may be made of any boned pieces 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 1121 
 
 of veal chiefly out from the thick part of the fillet, 
 and of not more than two or three pounds weight. 
 
 Fricassee. — Chickens, etc. cut into pieces in a 
 white sauce, with truffles, mushrooms, etc. as 
 accessories. 
 
 Fritter. — Anything encased in a covering of 
 batter or eggs, and fried. 
 
 Fritube. — The substance in which fish, fritters, 
 etc. are fried. 
 
 Fromage. — Cheese. 
 
 Fdmet. — The flavour or essence of game. 
 
 Galantine. — A dish of white meat, such as veal 
 or fowl, rolled, and served cold. 
 
 GATEAU. — A pudding or baked cake. 
 
 Gauffees. — A light, spongy sort of biscuit. 
 
 Gelinotte. — Hazel-hen. 
 
 G^HEVOISB. — Geneva style. 
 
 Genoise. — Genoa style. 
 
 Glace.— J'rozen ; iced. 
 
 Glaze. — Stock boiled down to the thickness of 
 jelly, and used to improve the appearance of 
 braised dishes. 
 
 Gnocohi. — A light, savoury dough, boiled, and 
 served with Parmesan cheese. 
 
 GODIVEATJ. — Rich veal forcemeat. 
 
 Goulash. — Finely sliced beef or veal stew, highly 
 seasoned. " 
 
 Gkas. — With, or of meat ; the reverse of maigre. 
 
 Gratin, or An Geatin. — A term applied to cer- 
 tain dishes prepared with sauce and baked. 
 
 Geatiner. — To cook like a grill; or to brown 
 the top of a dish. 
 
 Grenadines. — Round slices of meat, larded, and 
 served in sauce. 
 
 Hachis. — Minced or finely sliced meat. 
 
 Haeioot.— So called from the French word for 
 beans, with which the dish was originally made. 
 Now understood as any thick stew, or ragout of 
 mutton, beef, or veal, cut into pieces, and dressed 
 with vegetables and roots. 
 
 Hatelet. — A small silver skewer used for orna- 
 menting dishes. 
 
 Hollandaise.— Dutch style. Also the name of 
 a white fish sauce. 
 
 Hors-d'cettvres. — Small dishes of sardines, an- 
 chovies, and other relishes. 
 
 HuJtres. — Oysters. 
 
 HuRE DE Sangliee. — Wild boar's head. 
 
 ITALIENNE, A l'.— Italian style. 
 
 Jahdiniebe.— A mixture of spring vegetables. 
 Julienne.— A clear soup with vegetables in 
 strips. 
 Jus.— Juice or gravy. 
 
 Kabob.— An Indian dish of stewed curried meat. 
 Kedgeree.— An Indian dish of curried fish and 
 
 rice. 
 
 Kromeskies.- Savoury mixtures of meat and 
 sauce rolled in bacon and butter, and fried 
 3t 
 
 Lardinieee. — Vegetables stewed down in their 
 own sauce. 
 
 Lardoon. — The piece of bacon used in larding. 
 
 Liaison. — The mixture of egg and cream used 
 to thicken white soups, etc. 
 
 Lit. — Thin slices in layers. 
 
 Luting. — A paste to fasten lids on pie-pans for 
 preserving game. 
 
 Macedoines. — Mixtures of fruits or vegetables. 
 
 Madeleines. — Small plum cakes. 
 
 Maigee.— Without meat. 
 
 Maeinade. — The liquor in which fish or meat is 
 steeped. 
 
 Marquee. — ^To prepare and arrange in a stew- 
 pan a pieoe of meat ready for cooking. 
 
 Mask. — To cover meat with any rich sauce, 
 ragoiit, etc. 
 
 Matelote. — ^A rich fish stew with wine. 
 
 Mayonnaise. — Cold sauce, or salad dressing. 
 
 Mazarines, or Turbans. — Ornamental entrees of 
 forcemeat and fillets of poultry, game, or fish. 
 
 Menu. — The bill of fare. 
 
 MERiNGUE.^Light pastry made of sugar and the 
 white of eggs beaten to " snow." 
 
 Merlan. — Whiting. 
 
 Mignonette Pepper. — Coarsely ground pepper- 
 corns. 
 
 MiHEPOlx. — The foundation preparation of vege- 
 tables and herbs for brown soups and sauces, and 
 for braised meats. 
 
 MlROTON. — Small thin slices of meat about as 
 large as a crown piece made into ragouts of 
 various kinds, and dished up in a circular form. 
 
 Mouiller. — To add broth, water, or other liquid 
 while the cooking is proceeding. 
 
 Napolitaine, a la. — Naples style. 
 
 Navaein.— A kind of haricot of mutton or lamb, 
 of which turnips form the principal garniture. 
 
 Nesselrode. — A pudding, iced, and flavoured 
 with chestnuts. 
 
 NORMANDE, A LA. — Normandy style. 
 
 Nouilleb, or Nudelb. — Strips of paste made of 
 eggs and flour. 
 
 Orgeat. — Barley water or almond milk. 
 
 PANACHi.— A term signifying mixed with two or 
 more kinds of vegetables, fruits, etc. 
 
 Panada. — Soaked bread used in the preparation 
 of French forcemeat. 
 
 Faneb. — To cover with bread-crumbs fried or 
 baked food. 
 
 Papillote, En.— The pieces of paper greased 
 with 'oil and butter, and fastened round a cutlet, 
 etc., by twisting it along the edge. 
 
 Passer.— To sieve; to pass through a tammy 
 cloth. 
 
 PIte. — A small pie. 
 
 Paupiettbs. — Slices of meat rolled. 
 
 Persillade. — A thick white sauce, containing n 
 large proportion of parsley. 
 
1122 
 
 CASSELL'S NEW DICTIOWARY OF COOKERY. 
 
 Petits Pois. — Small green peae. 
 
 Piece de RfeiSTANCE.— The principal joint of the 
 dinner. 
 
 Pilau. — A dish of meat and rioe. 
 
 PiQUEE. — ^To lard with stripe of bacon fat, etc. 
 
 POELfi. — Stock for boiling turkeys, fowls, vege- 
 tables, instead of water, so as to render them lees 
 insipid, 
 
 PoiVElEE. — To pepper. 
 
 POTAGE.— Soup. 
 
 Pot-au-Feu. — A pot used in France for making 
 stock; now applied to the broth made in the pot. 
 
 Peintanieb. — Early spring vegetables. 
 
 Profiteeolles. — Light pastry creamed inside, 
 
 Pdkee.— The name given to a soup the ingre- 
 dients for thickening which have been passed 
 through a sieve, then thinned with broth to the 
 proper consistency. Meat and fish are cooked and 
 pounded in a mortar, roots and vegetables are 
 stewed till soft in order to prepare them for being 
 thus converted to a smooth pulp. 
 
 Quenelles. — Forcemeat of various kinds com- 
 posed of fish or meat, with bread, yplk of egg, 
 and some kind of fat, seasoned in different ways, 
 formed with a spoon to an oval shape, then 
 poached in stock and used either as a garnish to 
 entrees, or to be served separately. 
 
 Eago6t. — A rich stew of meat, highly seasoned. 
 
 Ramekins, or Ramequins. — A kind of cheese 
 tartlet. 
 
 E^CHAUPFER, — To heat again, 
 
 RafraIohie. — To pass through cold water after 
 cooking, in order to preserve the colour, as in the 
 case of green vegetables. 
 
 Releves. — The -remove dishes. 
 
 Remoulade. — A French salad-dressing. 
 
 Repasseb. — To strain several times. 
 ■ Revenie. — Meat and vegetables cut up and put 
 into a saucepan with a piece of butter on a quick 
 fire until slightly browned. 
 
 RiFACiMENTO. — Meat dressed a second time. 
 
 Rissole. — A mince of fish or meat enclosed in 
 paste, or formed into balls and other shapes. 
 Used either as side-dishes or garnish. [See alto 
 FaicAssiEEa,) 
 
 R6ti. — Roast meat. 
 
 Roux, — A mixture of butter and flour used for 
 thickening white soups and gravy. 
 
 Salmi. — A hash of game cut up and dressed 
 when only half roasted, 
 
 Salpicon, — A mixture of poultry or game with 
 ham, tongue, and mushrooms. 
 
 Santon. — To dress with sauce in the saucepan by 
 keeping it in motion. 
 
 Sauce Piquant, — A sharp sauce in which lemon 
 and vinegar predominate as a flavour, 
 
 Saute-pan — A thin-bottomed shallow pan for 
 quick frying, 
 
 Sauter, — To toss over the fire in a saute-pan 
 with a small quantity of fat only. 
 
 Serviette, A la.— Served in a napkin. 
 
 Sippets. — Small pieces of bread cut into various 
 shapes, either soaked in stock, toasted, or fried, 
 to serve with meats as garnishing or borders. 
 
 Sorbet. — A semi-frozen ice, well flavoured. 
 
 SoUBlSE. — ^A smooth onion pulp, served with 
 various kinds of meat entrees. 
 
 Souffle. — ^A very light baked or steamed pud- 
 ding. 
 
 SuPBEME. — An entree composed of the best parts 
 of poultry with sauce. Also the name of a rich 
 white sauce. 
 
 Table d'Hote.— The table at which the principal 
 meals at a hotel or restaurant are served to guests ; 
 .an ordinary. 
 
 Tamis, or "Tammy." — A strainer of fine woollen 
 canvas, used for straining soups and sauces, 
 
 Tartaee, — ^A xold sauce made of yolks of eggs, 
 oil, mustard, capeiis, gherkins, etc, served with 
 fish or cold meats. Also a salad dressing, 
 
 TiMBALE, — A sort of pie made in a moul-d. 
 
 TOUETE. — A tart baked in a shallow tin. 
 
 Teifle. — A second-course dish, made of sponge- 
 cake, macaroons, jams, etc., brandy or wine, and 
 liqueurs. 
 
 Teousbeb. — ^To truss a bird, 
 
 TuEBAN. — ^A dish made in a turban-shaped mould, 
 
 Tutti-Feutti. — An Italian term for various kinds 
 of fruits, or a mixture of cooked vegetables. 
 
 Vannee, To. — To make a sauce smooth by 
 rapidly lifting it high in large spoonfuls, and 
 allowing it to fall quickly again for some time, 
 
 Veloute. — Rich sauce used to heighten the 
 flavour of soups and made disTies. 
 
 Vol-au-Vbnt. — A light puff-paste, cut round or 
 oval, enclosing any delicate mincemeat. 
 
CLASSIFIED TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
CLASSIFIED TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 CAKES, BUNS, BREAD, AND BISCUITS. 
 
 Abernethy Biscuits 
 
 Cake, Cheap and Wholesome 
 
 French Gauftres 
 
 Albany Cakes 
 
 , CoTninon 
 
 
 Rolls 
 
 Albert Cake 
 
 ■ , Diet Bread 
 
 Frost 
 
 or Icing for Cakes 
 
 Almond Cake 
 
 Cakes, General Remarks on 
 
 Fruit Biscuits 
 
 Gauflres 
 
 Canadian Cakes 
 
 
 Cake 
 
 Cheesecakes 
 
 Captain's Biscuits 
 
 
 Wafers 
 
 • Cheesestraws 
 
 Caraway Biscuits 
 
 Gateau 
 
 Gingerbread 
 
 Cheese Biscuits 
 
 
 (a la Ceylon) 
 
 Icing tor Cakes 
 
 , Crusts for 
 
 
 
 (a la Dauphine) 
 
 ■ Jumbles 
 
 Cheesecakes 
 
 
 Coburg (Coburg Cake) 
 
 Paste 
 
 , Almond 
 
 
 de Chocolat 
 
 Queen Cakes 
 
 , Apple 
 
 
 de Compifegne 
 
 Spice Biscuits 
 
 . Bread 
 
 
 d'ilpice, or French Ginger- 
 
 Spongecake 
 
 , Chester 
 
 
 bread 
 
 Alpha Kocks 
 
 , Home-made 
 
 
 de Nouilles 
 
 American Biscuits 
 
 . Lemon 
 
 
 de Pommes 
 
 Breakfast Buns and Cakes 
 
 , Potato 
 
 
 de Riz 
 
 Velvet Breakfast Cakes 
 
 , Savoury 
 
 
 Napolitaine 
 
 White Cake 
 
 , Winter 
 
 
 Russe 
 
 Apple Cakes 
 
 Cheltenham Cakes 
 
 , 
 
 with Apricots 
 
 Cheesecakes 
 
 Cherry Cake 
 
 Gauflres 
 
 Arrowroot Biscuits 
 
 Chester Buns 
 
 ^ 
 
 Flemish 
 
 Athole Cakes 
 
 Chocolate Biscuits 
 
 
 Parisieune 
 
 Aurelian Cake 
 
 Cakes 
 
 Geneva Buns 
 
 Baker's RoUs, American 
 
 Christmas Bun, Scottish 
 
 
 Wafers 
 
 Banbury Cakes 
 
 Cake 
 
 Genoa Cake 
 
 Bannocks, Scotch 
 
 Cinnamon Biscuits and Cakes 
 
 Genoese Cake 
 
 Barley Meal Scones 
 
 Citron Cake 
 
 German Biscuits 
 
 Bath Buns 
 
 Cocoa-nut Cakes 
 
 
 Cakes 
 
 Battenberg Cake 
 
 Cheesecakes 
 
 
 Yeast Bread 
 
 Batter Cakes 
 
 Gingerbread 
 
 Ginge 
 
 r Biscuits 
 
 Biscuits, Hard and Plain 
 
 Macaroons 
 
 
 Cakes 
 
 Bologna 
 
 Pound Cake 
 
 
 Snaps 
 
 Boston Buns and Cream Cakes 
 
 Spongecakes 
 
 Gingerbread (8. la Soyer) 
 
 Brandy Snaps 
 
 Colba Cake 
 
 
 Almond 
 
 Bread, Brown, Biscuits 
 
 Cornflour Spongecake 
 
 
 American 
 
 ■ Cakes, Fried, American 
 
 Corn-meal Cake 
 
 , 
 
 Cocoa-nut 
 
 , Home-made 
 
 Cracknels 
 
 
 English 
 
 , Indian Corn 
 
 Cradle Cakes 
 
 , 
 
 Fanny's 
 
 , Pulled 
 
 Cream Biscuits and Cakes 
 
 
 Fingers, American 
 
 , Rice 
 
 of Tartar Cake 
 
 
 Flemish 
 
 , Short 
 
 Crisp Biscuits 
 
 . , 
 
 German 
 
 , Snippets of 
 
 Crumpets 
 
 , 
 
 Honeycomb 
 
 , Unfermented 
 
 Curd Cheesecakes 
 
 
 Hunter's 
 
 , Wheat and Rice 
 
 Currant Cakes 
 
 , 
 
 Imperial 
 
 Breakfast Biscuits and Cakes 
 
 Derwentwater Cakes 
 
 
 Leek 
 
 Mufftns 
 
 Dessert Biscuits 
 
 , 
 
 Loaf 
 
 Brentford Rolls 
 
 ■ Cakes 
 
 
 , Plain 
 
 Bride Cake 
 
 Devon Cakes 
 
 
 Nuremburg 
 
 Brioche 
 
 Devonshire Cake 
 
 
 Nuts 
 
 Buckwheat Cakes, American 
 
 Dough Nuts, American 
 
 
 Orange 
 
 , Raised 
 
 Dundee Cake 
 
 
 Parkin 
 
 Buns, Light Tea 
 
 Dutch Loaf 
 
 
 Powder, for making 
 
 Butter Scones 
 
 Eastwell Biscuits 
 
 
 Sponge 
 
 Buttered Toast 
 
 Finger Biscuits 
 
 
 Sugar 
 
 Buttermilk Cakes 
 
 French Cake 
 
 , 
 
 Swiss 
 
1126 
 
 cassell's new dictioxaky of cookery. 
 
 Gingerbread, Thick 
 , White 
 
 without Butter 
 
 Gipsy (or Tipsy) Cake 
 Girdle Cake 
 
 Glove Cakes 
 Good Friday Buns 
 Gooseberry Biscuits 
 
 Cakes 
 
 Griddle Cake, American 
 Ground Eice Cheesecakes 
 Guernsey Buns 
 
 Cake 
 
 Hanover Buns 
 
 Cake 
 
 Hazel Nut Cakes 
 Hominy Cakes 
 Honey Cake 
 
 Cakes (German Becipe) 
 
 Hot Cross Buns 
 
 Imperial Cake 
 
 ^— Gingerbread 
 Indian Cornflour Bread 
 
 Crumpets 
 
 ■ Gingerbread 
 
 Griddle Cake 
 
 Meal Johnny Cakes 
 
 Muffins 
 
 Irish Cake 
 
 Griddle Cake 
 
 Iiuncheon Cakes 
 
 Bolls 
 
 Seed Cake 
 
 Italian Macaroons 
 
 Meringues 
 
 ■ Roll 
 
 Busks 
 
 Johnny or Journey Cakes 
 
 Josephine Cake 
 
 Jumbles 
 
 Kneaded Cakes 
 
 Ladies' Wine Biscuits, or Ladies' 
 
 Lips 
 Lady Fingers 
 Langues de Chat Biscuits 
 Lemon Biscuits 
 
 Cake 
 
 , Eich 
 
 Cheesecakes 
 
 Rings 
 
 Kock Biscuits 
 
 Loaf Cake 
 
 , for Luncheon, &c. 
 
 of Indian Meal 
 
 Love Cakes 
 
 Luncheon Cake 
 
 , made from Dough 
 
 , Plain 
 
 Macaroon Biscuits 
 
 Cakes 
 
 Madeira Buns and Cake 
 Madeleine Cake 
 Magdalen Cake 
 Maids of Honour 
 Majesty Biscuits 
 Manx Cake 
 Maryland Doughnuts 
 Mela Biscuits 
 Milan Biscuits 
 
 Milk and Butter Cakes 
 
 Biscuits 
 
 Breakfast Cakes 
 
 Bolls and Twists 
 
 Scones 
 
 Modena Cake 
 Montrose Cakes 
 Muffins 
 
 , American 
 
 , Toasted 
 
 Naples or Finger Biscuits 
 Neapolitan Cake 
 Nuns' Biscuits 
 
 Cake 
 
 Nuremberg Gingerbread 
 Oat Cake 
 
 — , Lancashire 
 
 , made with Yeast 
 
 Oatmeal Bannocks 
 
 Biscuits 
 
 Muffins 
 
 Orange Biscuits 
 
 Cake 
 
 Cakes 
 
 Cheesecakes 
 
 Gingerbread 
 
 Padeia Cake 
 
 Parker House Bolls 
 
 Parkin, Oldham 
 
 Parliament or " Parley " Cakes 
 
 Parsnip Cakes 
 
 Passenger Cake 
 
 Peach Cakes 
 
 Pera Cake 
 
 Piedmont Cake 
 
 Pikelets 
 
 Pilkington Cakes 
 
 Pink Icing 
 
 Pistachio Macaroons 
 
 Pitcaithley Bannock 
 
 Plum Buns, made with Teast 
 
 , Plain 
 
 , without Yeast 
 
 Cake 
 
 , made with Soda 
 
 , Plain, for family use 
 
 , Plain, made with 
 
 Baker's Dough 
 
 , Rich 
 
 , , Icing for 
 
 Loaf, Plain 
 
 Popovers 
 Portuguese Cakes 
 Potato Biscuits 
 
 Bread 
 
 Cake 
 
 , Sweet 
 
 Cakes 
 
 • , German, to serve 
 
 with Game or 
 Poultry 
 
 Cheesecakes 
 
 Cones or Loaves 
 
 Muffins 
 
 Bolls 
 
 Pound Cake 
 Prussian Balls 
 Puffets, American 
 Fulled Bread 
 
 Punch Icing 
 Queen Cakes 
 Queen's Biscuits 
 
 Drops 
 
 Tea Cakes 
 
 Quince Cakes 
 
 Cheesecakes 
 
 Quips and Quamps 
 
 Baisin Cake 
 
 Bamazan Cakes 
 
 Baspberry and Pistachio Cake 
 
 Biscuits 
 
 Cake 
 
 Icing 
 
 Batafla Biscuits and Cake 
 
 Cheesecakes 
 
 Reading Cake 
 Record Cakes 
 
 Revolution (or Lafayette) Cake 
 
 Riband Wafers 
 
 Ribbon Cake 
 
 Rice and Apple Cake 
 
 Biscuits 
 
 Bread 
 
 Cake 
 
 Cakes, Plain 
 
 — - , Rich 
 
 , Small 
 
 Cheesecakes 
 
 , Gateau of 
 
 Waffles 
 
 Rice-flour Bread and Cakes 
 Rink Cake 
 
 Rock Biscuits 
 
 . Bed 
 
 Cakes 
 
 , Almond or Cocoa-nut 
 
 Bocks for Cheese 
 
 Rodon Cake 
 Rolls, Baker's 
 
 , Brentford 
 
 , Cream of Tartar 
 
 , Flour and Potato 
 
 , French 
 
 , Fruit 
 
 , Geneva 
 
 , Ginger 
 
 . Hot 
 
 made from Risen Dough 
 
 . Milk 
 
 , Polenta 
 
 , Turkish 
 
 Bonbrtich Cakes 
 Bose Meringues 
 Bout Biscuits and Cakes 
 
 , Almond 
 
 Bum Cake 
 Rusk Cake 
 
 Bread for Breakfast 
 
 Busks, made with Sour Cream 
 
 , Plain 
 
 , Sweet, and Tea 
 
 Bussian Cakes 
 
 Walnut Cake 
 
 Ruthven Cake 
 
 Bye and Indian Meal, Bread of 
 
 Batter Cakes 
 
 Bread 
 
 Drop Cakes 
 
CLASSIFIED TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 1127 
 
 Sea Cake 
 
 Saflron Cakes or Buns 
 
 Saggertoff Jumbles 
 
 Sago Bread 
 
 Sallylunns 
 
 (Car§me's recipe) 
 
 Sand Cake 
 
 , with Marmalade 
 
 Saucer Cake 
 Sausage-meat Cakes 
 Sausage Bolls 
 
 Savarin Cake 
 Savoury Cake 
 Savoy Biscuits, Cold and Hot 
 
 , or Ladies' Fingers 
 
 Cake 
 
 Cakes 
 
 Sponge 
 
 Savoys Day 
 School Cake 
 Scones 
 
 , Baking Powder 
 
 , Barley Meal 
 
 , Indian Meal and Flour 
 
 — — , Potato 
 
 , Elce 
 
 . Scalded 
 
 , Soda 
 
 , Wheaten Meal 
 
 Scotch Cake 
 
 Oatmeal Cakes 
 
 Scrap 
 
 Cakes 
 
 Seed Biscuits 
 
 Buns 
 
 Rolls 
 
 Seed-cake, Family, made from 
 Dough 
 
 , Rich 
 
 , Superior 
 
 Seed-cakes, Cheap 
 Seville Orange Cakes 
 Shortbread, Scotch 
 Short Cakes 
 
 Paste Cakes 
 
 Shrewsbury Buckwheat Cakes 
 
 Cakes 
 
 Sicilian Biscuits 
 Simnel Cakes 
 
 Yeast Cake 
 
 Simple Cakes 
 
 Sly Cakes 
 Snowballs 
 Snow Cake 
 
 Rocks 
 
 Soda Biscuits 
 
 Bread 
 
 Cake 
 
 Cakes, Economical 
 
 Scones 
 
 Spanish Buns 
 
 Cakes 
 
 Spice Cakes 
 
 Nuts 
 
 Sponge Biscuits 
 
 Cheesecakes 
 
 Spongecake 
 
 , Almond, Superior 
 
 Spongecakes, Iced 
 
 , Safe General Rale for 
 
 Making 
 , Small 
 
 (various recipes) 
 
 Stale Bread and Cake 
 Stranger's Cake, or Polly's Cake 
 Strawberry Cheesecakes 
 Suffolk Buns 
 
 Sugar Biscuits and Cakes 
 
 Icings and Glazings for 
 
 Cakes 
 Sultana Cake 
 Swiss Cream Cakes 
 
 Roll 
 
 Tapioca Cake 
 Tea Biscuits 
 
 Cakes, Baker's, to Toast. 
 
 ■ , Royal 
 
 , Yorkshire 
 
 • , , Plain 
 
 , , to Serve 
 
 Teddy Cake 
 
 Toast, Buttered 
 
 , Creole. , 
 
 , Dry 
 
 Tottenham Muffins 
 Treacle Cheesecakes 
 
 Parkin 
 
 Tunbridge Cakes 
 Turin Cakes 
 Twelfth Cake 
 
 , Lady Caroline Lamb's 
 
 Unfermented Bread , 
 
 Vanilla Cheesecakes 
 
 Spongecake 
 
 Venetian Biscuit 
 
 Cake 
 
 Vermont Biscuits 
 Victoria Biscuits 
 
 Buns 
 
 Cake 
 
 Vienna Bread 
 
 Cake 
 
 Rusks 
 
 Viennese Biscuits 
 Wafer Biscuits 
 
 , Almond 
 
 Cakes 
 
 Paper, to put under Cakes 
 
 Wafers 
 
 , Almond 
 
 , Dutch 
 
 , Flemish 
 
 , Fruit, lor Dessert 
 
 , Geneva 
 
 , Ice 
 
 , with Jelly 
 
 Waffles 
 
 (Danish recipe) 
 
 (German) 
 
 , made with Yeast 
 
 without Yeast or Soda 
 
 , Bice 
 
 Walnut Cakes 
 Washington Cake 
 
 Cakes, Breakfast 
 
 Wasp's Nest Cakes 
 Water Biscuits 
 
 Cakes 
 
 Webster Cakes 
 
 Wedding Cake, Excellent 
 
 Wheat and Maize Bread 
 
 Wheaten Bread, Wholesomeness ol 
 
 Wheatmeal Scones 
 
 White Cake 
 
 Cakes 
 
 Cup Cakes 
 
 Whole-meal Bread 
 Wine Biscuits 
 
 Cake 
 
 Wonders 
 Wreaths 
 
 , Sugar 
 
 Yankee Cakes 
 Yeast, Bread without 
 
 Cake 
 
 , Excellent 
 
 Cakes (Cobbet's recipe) 
 
 Wreaths 
 
 .Yorkshire Biscuits 
 
 Brown Bread 
 
 Flat Cake 
 
 Griddle Cakes 
 
 Spice (or York) Cake 
 
 Tea Cakes 
 
 Casserole of Elce 
 
 Croquettes of Elce 
 
 Curry, to Boil Rice for 
 
 Flour Porridge 
 
 Frumenty 
 
 Green Indian Corn, or Maize, to 
 
 Boll 
 Hominy 
 
 CEREALS, ETC. 
 
 Hominy, Fried 
 Indian Meal Mush 
 Italian Polenta 
 Lentil Curry 
 
 Eissoles 
 
 Lentils (& la Crime) 
 
 (4 la Provenjale) 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 Lentils, Boiled (superior method) 
 Macaroni {i, la Crime) 
 
 (a la Pontlfte) 
 
 (a la Relne) 
 
 and Cheese 
 
 Mushrooms 
 
 Sweetbreads, Timbale 
 
 of 
 
1128 
 
 CASSELL'S NEW riCTIONART OF COOKERT. 
 
 Macaroni (au Gratln) 
 
 Bice (a la Bonne Femme) 
 
 Bice Meringue 
 
 (au VIn) 
 
 
 (A la Chicago) 
 
 
 Panada 
 
 , Boiled (a I'ltallenne) 
 
 
 (a I'ltallenne) 
 
 
 Pears 
 
 , Brown 
 
 
 (ci la Lucknow) ^ 
 
 
 Pilau 
 
 Cheese 
 
 
 (a la Mllanalse) 
 
 
 Polish Way of Dressing 
 
 , Croquettes ol 
 
 
 (4 la Soeur) 
 
 
 Preservation of 
 
 . Dressed In English fashion 
 
 
 (a la Tremaln) 
 
 
 Puffs 
 
 (en Timbale) 
 
 
 (k la Trinidad) 
 
 
 Pyramids of 
 
 Fish 
 
 
 (a la Turque) 
 
 
 Bings, Savoury 
 
 In Scallop Shells 
 
 
 American Mode of Cooking 
 
 
 Spanish Way of Dressing 
 
 Savoury 
 
 
 and Barley Porridge 
 
 , 
 
 Steaiced 
 
 , with Anchovies and Butter 
 
 
 
 Cabbage 
 
 , 
 
 Varieties of 
 
 , Cheese and Eggs 
 
 
 ' Cheese 
 
 
 Water 
 
 , Chestnuts 
 
 
 
 Milk 
 
 
 With Pears 
 
 i Tomatoes 
 
 
 Tomatoes 
 
 , 
 
 Stewed Fruit 
 
 Maize, or Indian Corn 
 
 
 
 Boiled 
 
 Bye 
 
 
 Meringue of Bice 
 
 
 (a la Carolina) 
 
 Sago 
 
 
 Milk Porridge 
 
 
 lor Curry 
 
 
 
 Meal 
 
 Bice 
 
 
 , Plain (Soyer's recipe) 
 
 , 
 
 Nutritive Properties of 
 
 Sago 
 
 
 - — , to Serve as Vegetable 
 
 
 Porridge 
 
 Mush of Indian Com 
 
 
 with Hot Meat 
 
 
 Portland 
 
 NoulUes 
 
 
 Browned 
 
 , 
 
 with Wine Sauce 
 
 . Boiled In Milk 
 
 
 Buttered 
 
 Salooi 
 
 or Salep 
 
 , Buttered 
 
 , 
 
 Canadian 
 
 Savoury Bice 
 
 , with Parmesan or au 
 
 
 Casserole oJ 
 
 Scotch Oatmeal Brose 
 
 Gratln 
 
 
 Cassolettes 
 
 
 Porridge 
 
 Oatmeal 
 
 
 Comp6te ol 
 
 Semolina 
 
 Porridge 
 
 , 
 
 Creamed 
 
 Sowens 
 
 Pilafl 
 
 
 Croquettes 
 
 Spaghetti 
 
 Pilau, Bice for a 
 
 
 , Plain 
 
 
 with Eggs 
 
 Polenta 
 
 
 
 , Savoury 
 
 
 Tomato Bolls 
 
 (h, I'ltalienne) 
 
 • 
 
 , Sweet 
 
 Spanish Bice 
 
 Porridge, Lentil 
 
 
 Curried 
 
 Tapioca and Tomatoes 
 
 , Milk, French 
 
 
 Cutlets 
 
 Vermicelli 
 
 ,' Oatmeal 
 
 
 Favourites 
 
 
 (& la Bene) 
 
 , Bice and Barley 
 
 
 Flour, or Ground Rice 
 
 
 (au lalt) 
 
 , Sago 
 
 , 
 
 for Curried Oysters, etc. 
 
 
 Porridge 
 
 , Whole-meal 
 
 
 Gratin (M. tfde's recipe) 
 
 . 
 
 Portuguese 
 
 Bed Sago 
 
 
 Indian Mode of BoilinB 
 
 1 
 
 with Boiled Chicken 
 
 Elce 
 
 , 
 
 Irish 
 
 Wheat 
 
 .-- 
 
 COLD MEAT AND SCRAP COOKERY. 
 
 Beef Cakes 
 
 . Cold, Scalloped 
 
 , Boast, Minced 
 
 Croquettes 
 
 Grlskins 
 
 Hash 
 
 , with Croutons 
 
 , Minced 
 
 , Miroton of 
 
 Boll 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 Bentluck Cutlets 
 Blackcock, Salmi of 
 Bubble and Squeak 
 Burdwan, Indian ' 
 Calfs Foot Mould 
 
 Head CoUops 
 
 , Curried 
 
 , Fricasseed 
 
 , Fried 
 
 , Hashed 
 
 , in Jelly 
 
 Calf's Head Mould 
 
 Cannelon (a la Frangalse) 
 
 Cannelons (a la Poulette) 
 
 Capon Cream 
 
 Cecils 
 
 Chicken (St la Beine) 
 
 , Curried 
 
 , Fried 
 
 , Marinaded 
 
 , Minced 
 
 , Scalloped 
 
 and Tomatoes, Chartreuse of 
 
 Cod (a la Provenjale) 
 
 and Macaroni 
 
 Parmesan Cheese 
 
 (au Gratln) 
 
 , Cold 
 
 . Croquettes of 
 
 , Curried 
 
 Fish Balls 
 
 Fish Cakes 
 
 , Fried 
 
 Cod Mould 
 
 , Salt, B^chau£l§ of 
 
 , with Mashed Potatoes 
 
 Cornish Cutlets 
 
 Croquettes of Fowl 
 
 Curry Balls 
 
 Croquettes 
 
 Fish and Eggs 
 
 (au Gratln) 
 
 Balls 
 
 Cakes 
 
 , Cold, to redress 
 
 , Croquettes of 
 
 Cutlets 
 
 Eggs, Scrambled 
 
 Kedgeree 
 
 EechauffS 
 
 , Eissoles of 
 
 Fowl k la Mayonnaise 
 — ^, Blanquett'O of 
 
 . Croquettes of 
 
 , Curried 
 
CLASSIFIED TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 1129 
 
 Fowl, Curried, (a rindlenne) 
 
 , Fricasseed 
 
 , Fried 
 
 , Grlllade ot 
 
 , Hashed 
 
 , Mayonnaise ol 
 
 , Kinced 
 
 , Rissoles of 
 
 Scallops 
 
 , ■- (a la Bfiohamel) 
 
 Frlcandelle, Boiled 
 
 , Fried 
 
 Game, Hashed 
 
 , (Venison) 
 
 in Aspic Jelly 
 
 • , Kissoles ol 
 
 Gateau of Hare 
 Goose, Cold, to Hash 
 
 , Grilled 
 
 Grouse, to Hash 
 Haddock, Cold 
 
 . , Curry of 
 
 , Kechaufie of 
 
 Hare Cakes 
 
 , Civet of 
 
 , Cold Boast 
 
 Collops 
 
 , Fillets of 
 
 — ^, Gateau of 
 ■ , Hashed 
 
 Hash, Cold Beef or Mutton 
 
 , Common 
 
 , New York 
 
 , Superior 
 
 Heart, Bullock's, Hashed 
 
 Hunter's Salmi 
 
 Italian Polpetti 
 
 John Dory, Cold, to warm up 
 
 Kid, Hashed 
 
 Kidney, Rissoles of 
 
 Kromeskies 
 
 Lamb, Cold (en Blanquette) 
 
 , Roast, Stew ot 
 
 Cutlets, Cold 
 
 , Minced, and Peas 
 
 , Noisettes of 
 
 Leveret, Cold Roast, with Polvrade 
 Sauce 
 
 Puree 
 
 Lobster, Cold 
 
 — r-, , Dressed 
 
 Scallops 
 
 Meat Balls, Minced, Fried 
 
 Cake, Moulded 
 
 , Cold 
 
 Croquettes 
 
 Rissoles, English 
 
 , German 
 
 Mousse of Fowl 
 
 Veal 
 
 Mutton and Tomatoes (au Gratlti) 
 , Casserole of. Plain 
 
 Croquettes 
 
 — — , Curried, Plain 
 
 Dormers 
 
 Hachls (a la Portugalse) 
 
 . Hashed Ik I'Indienne) 
 
 , Minced 
 
 , and Baked 
 
 Mutton, Minced, with Bed Cabbage 
 , Ragout of 
 
 RSchautfe 
 
 Olives (a la Reine) 
 Oude Curry 
 
 Ox Cheek, Cold 
 
 — , Sliced and Fried 
 
 Tongue, Curried 
 
 Pancakes, Rissoles 
 
 , Stufled 
 
 Partridges, Salmi of 
 Pepper Pot, West Indian 
 Pheasant, Boudins of 
 
 , Curried 
 
 ■ , Hashed 
 
 Pig, Sucking, Broiled (,h la Tartare) 
 
 , (en Blanquette) 
 
 Pigeons, Fricassee of 
 Pike, Cold, re-dressed 
 Pork Cheese 
 
 Collops 
 
 Hashed 
 
 Meat Cake of 
 
 , Cold 
 
 Minced 
 
 , as Collops 
 
 Rechauffe of 
 
 Sausages, for Eating Cold 
 
 Potato Turnovers 
 
 Poultry, Hashed 
 
 Pulled Turkey, Fowl, or Chicken 
 
 Quenelles 
 
 , Ragotit of 
 
 Rabbit, Boudins of 
 
 . (A la Reine) 
 
 , Cold, to Dress 
 
 , Croquettes of 
 
 - — , (M. Tide's recipe) 
 
 , Hashed 
 
 , Klosse 
 
 , Minced (M. Ude's recipe) 
 
 — — , Quenelles of 
 
 , Scallops of 
 
 , with Cucumber 
 
 Ravioli, Italian 
 Bice and Veal Cutlets 
 Bissables 
 Rissoles 
 
 (a la Pompadour) 
 
 , Beet 
 
 (Careme's recipe) 
 
 , Cold Mutton, Chicken, etc. 
 
 , Fish 
 
 of Calves' Brains 
 
 , Pancake 
 
 , Pork 
 
 , Rice 
 
 , Savoury 
 
 Roebuck, Minced 
 Roll, Forced 
 Rolls, Beef 
 
 , Meat 
 
 , Veal 
 
 Rombo, or Fowl In Salad Sauce 
 
 Roulettes 
 
 Salmagundi 
 
 Salmis, Plain 
 
 Salmon Cromeskles 
 
 Crumbs 
 
 Salmon, R^chaufi6 of 
 
 Rissoles 
 
 , Scalloped 
 
 , Soused 
 
 Salpicons 
 
 Salt Fish, Cooked R^chauffS ot 
 Saunders 
 
 Shrimp Cromesquins, or Krpmes- 
 kies - . — 
 
 Skate, Cooked, to Ee-cook 
 Snipe, Salmi of 
 Sole, Cold 
 
 Croquettes 
 
 Sturgeon, Croquettes of 
 Sweetbreads, Cold, to Re-dress 
 
 , Croquettes of 
 
 Toad in the Hole 
 Tripe (a la Lyonnaise) 
 
 , Fried 
 
 Turbot (a la B6chamel) 
 
 (a la Creme) 
 
 (a la Provenjale) 
 
 (au Gratin) 
 
 , Cold, to Serve a second Time 
 
 , , with Shrimp Chutney 
 
 Croquettes 
 
 , Curried 
 
 (en Coquilles) ' 
 
 . Fillets of (au Gratin) 
 
 , Pickled 
 
 , Scalloped 
 
 Turkey, Blanquette of 
 
 , Cold, to Fry 
 
 , Fillets of- 
 
 , Fricassee of 
 
 , Grilled 
 
 , Hashed 
 
 , Minced 
 
 Poult, Cold, to Re-cook 
 
 , Pulled 
 
 Rissoles 
 
 Veal and Bice Pies 
 
 Beignets 
 
 , Blanquette of, made with 
 
 Cold Cooked Meat 
 
 , , with Cucumbers 
 
 , , Mushrooms 
 
 , Bubble and Squeak of 
 
 Cake 
 
 , Superior 
 
 Cakes, Small 
 
 , Cold, Baked 
 
 , , Hashed 
 
 , , Minced Plainly 
 
 , , with Mushrooms 
 
 and Oysters 
 
 , , to Ragotit 
 
 , Re-cook 
 
 Collops, made with Cooked 
 
 Veal - 
 
 Cold Meat 
 
 Cones 
 
 Croquettes of 
 Curry, made 
 
 Cooked Veal 
 Cutlets, made 
 
 Cooked Veal 
 Fillet of (au 
 
 with Cold 
 
 from Cold 
 
 Bechamel- 
 
 second cooking) 
 
1130 
 
 CASSELL'S NEW DICTIONARY OF COOKEEY. 
 
 Veal, Frlcandelles ol 
 G&teau of 
 Hashed 
 Kidney Cakes 
 Loin of (au Bechamel) 
 Minced 
 
 , and Macaroni 
 
 — — , Moulded 
 . with Fowl 
 
 Veal, Minced, with Poached Eggs 
 
 , , Potatoes 
 
 , Mousse of 
 
 Pie, with Potatoes 
 
 Rissoles 
 
 Rolls, Fried 
 
 Vegetable Ragout 
 
 Vegetables, Mixed (second cooking) 
 Venison, Cold, Stewed 
 
 Venison Collops 
 
 , Hashed 
 
 Vinaigrette of Cold Meat 
 Widgeon, Grilled 
 
 , Hashed 
 
 Wild Duck, Hashed 
 Woofloock, Salmi of 
 
 . Surprised 
 
 CURED AND SALTED MEATS. 
 
 Bacon and Broad Beans 
 
 Eggs 
 
 Macaroni 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 , Broiled 
 
 Cheeks, to Pickle 
 
 , Cushion of 
 
 , Minced 
 
 or Ham, to Cure 
 
 , to Choose 
 
 , Cure 
 
 , Smoke 
 
 , Toasted 
 
 Bath Chap 
 
 Beet, Aitchbone of. Salted. 
 
 , Dutch 
 
 , Hung 
 
 , Hunter's 
 
 , Round of, Pickled 
 
 , Salt 
 
 . , Fried 
 
 , Silverside of. Salt 
 
 . Spiced 
 
 Bullock's Tongue, Boiled 
 
 , Cured 
 
 , Pickled and Baked 
 
 Cod, Salt, Fried 
 
 , , with Parsnips 
 
 Fish, Salt, Boiled 
 
 Goose Hams 
 
 Ham and Eggs, Moulded 
 
 , Savoury 
 
 Macaroni 
 
 — — Veal, to Press 
 
 Baked 
 Boiled 
 
 Braised (i, la Franpaise) 
 Broiled 
 
 Burgundy, Mode of Pre- 
 paring 
 
 Choosing a 
 Cured 
 
 (an easy way) 
 
 (M. Ude's recipe) 
 
 (Warwickshire method) 
 
 (West Country method) 
 
 with Hot Pickle 
 
 (Yorkshire way) 
 
 Fried 
 
 , with Eggs 
 
 Tomatoes 
 
 Hot, with Madeira 
 
 Minced 
 
 Muffins 
 
 Mutton, Smoked 
 
 Roasted 
 
 Ham Scallops 
 
 Pressed Beef 
 
 Smoked at home 
 
 Reindeer Tongue, to Boil 
 
 Steaks 
 
 Russian Polony 
 
 , with Aspic Jelly 
 
 Salmon, Cured or Salted 
 
 . Savoury Crust 
 
 , Dried, Kippered, or Salted 
 
 . Stewed Veal Cutlets 
 
 , '• or Kippered, to Dress 
 
 , Windsor Beans 
 
 , Herring, Sprats, Mackerel, 
 
 Hamburg Beef 
 
 etc.. Pickled 
 
 . Smoked 
 
 , Kippered 
 
 , , to Boil 
 
 . Marinaded 
 
 Hare, Pickled 
 
 , Pickled 
 
 Hog's Cheeks, to Cure 
 
 , Potted 
 
 Hunter's or Spiced Beef 
 
 . Salted (Norwegian fashionV 
 
 Jewish Smoked Beef 
 
 , Spiced 
 
 Mutton Ham 
 
 Salt Fish 
 
 . Leg of, to Marinade 
 
 (a la Maltre d'Hfttel) 
 
 , Shoulder of, with Oysters 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 Neats' Tongues, Cured for Keeping 
 
 Salting Meat 
 
 . to Salt for Immediate 
 
 Sheep's Tongues, Cured 
 
 use 
 
 , Broiled 
 
 Ox Palates 
 
 . Larded and Roasted 
 
 , Curried 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 . Grilled 
 
 Smoked Beef, American 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 Meat, Hash of 
 
 , with Macaroni 
 
 Spanish Ham 
 
 > Tongue (4 I'Ecarlate) 
 
 Sprats, Pickled 
 
 . Cured 
 
 Sugar, Fish Preserved with 
 
 . Pickled 
 
 Tongue 
 
 , Russian 
 
 , Baked 
 
 Pig's Cheek, Boiled 
 
 , Beef 
 
 — - , . and Served with 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 Vegetables 
 
 — -, Carving of 
 
 . M. Soyer's mode of 
 
 , Pickled or Salted 
 
 Dressing 
 
 , Roasted 
 
 — , Pickled 
 
 , Rolled 
 
 Feet and Ears, Fried In 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 Batter 
 
 . to Serve a Cut, with Asplo 
 
 . Devilled 
 
 Jelly 
 
 , Soused 
 
 Tongues, Glazed 
 
 . Boiled 
 
 . Sheep's, Salted 
 
 , Piquant 
 
 , Pickled 
 
 Pigs' Tongues 
 
 Veal Tongue, to Preserve 
 
 Pork, Belly of 
 
 Venison, Smoked 
 
 . , Rolled and 
 
 Westphalian Ham 
 
 Boiled 
 
 ■ , Boiled Delicately 
 
 . Chine of ' 
 
 , Mock 
 
 . , Boiled 
 
 Wild Boar Ham 
 
 , , Roasted 
 
 , Haunch of, with 
 
 , Hand of 
 
 Cherry Sauce 
 
 , Pickled 
 
 Boar's Head 
 
 , (American method) 
 
 Wiltshire Method of Curing Bacon 
 
 , . Boiled 
 
 York Ham, with Champagne 
 
 , (Easy method) 
 
 , Madeira, Hot 
 
 , Salted, for Larding 
 
 Hams 
 
 , Scrambled (American dish) 
 
 . to Boil 
 
 , Shoulder of. Marinaded 
 
 Zampino 
 
CLASSIFIED TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 1131 
 
 DRINKS, CORDIALS, AND BEVERAGES. 
 
 Acidulated Alkali 
 
 Lemonade 
 
 Ale Berry 
 
 Cup 
 
 Draught 
 
 Flip 
 
 Posset 
 
 Punch 
 
 Sangaru 
 
 , to Mull 
 
 Almond Drink 
 
 Milk 
 
 Syrup 
 
 American Lemonade 
 
 Tea Punch 
 
 Angelica Eatafla 
 Aniseed Cordial 
 Apple Punch 
 
 Water 
 
 , Iced 
 
 Apricot Brandy 
 
 Drink 
 
 Eatafia 
 
 Syrup 
 
 Wine 
 
 Aromatic Cordial 
 Arrowroot Cup 
 
 Water " 
 
 Athole Brose 
 Beef Brose 
 
 Beer, to Eemove Acidity from 
 Beverages, Eelreshing Summer 
 Birthday Syllabub 
 Bishop 
 
 , Oxford, Nightcap 
 
 Bitters 
 Blackberry Syrup 
 
 Wine 
 
 Black Currant Wine 
 Brandy, Lemon 
 Cafe au Lait 
 
 Cafe Nolr 
 
 Cambridge Milk Punch 
 
 Camomile Tea 
 
 Canadian Cobbler 
 
 Caraway Brandy 
 
 Caudle 
 
 Champagne Cup 
 
 , Currant 
 
 , English 
 
 Chartreuse 
 Cherry Brandy 
 
 Drink 
 
 Chocolate 
 
 Cider (see Perry and Cider) 
 Cider Cup 
 Cinnamon Cordial 
 
 , Mull«d 
 
 Claret Cup 
 Clove Cordial 
 Cocoa 
 
 — - Nibs 
 CoSee, Breakfast 
 
 , Burnt 
 
 Essence, to Prepare 
 
 , French method 
 
 Cool Cup 
 Cowslip Wine 
 Cream, Soda 
 
 of Tartar 
 
 CuraQoa 
 
 Curd 
 
 Currant Champagne 
 
 Shrub 
 
 Syrup 
 
 Water 
 
 Wine 
 
 Damson Wine 
 Dandelion Wine 
 Devonshire Syllabub 
 Eau Sucr^ 
 
 Egg Cordial 
 
 Flip 
 
 Nogg 
 
 Elder Brandy 
 
 Wine 
 
 Elderberry Punch 
 Four-fruit Liquor 
 Fruit Drink 
 
 , Juice of 
 
 Gin Punch 
 
 Sling 
 
 Ginger Beer 
 
 Cordial 
 
 Cup Cake 
 
 Egg Flip 
 
 Syrup 
 
 Gingerette 
 Gooseberry Champagne 
 
 • Liqueur 
 
 Water 
 
 Wine, Effervescing 
 
 ■ • — , Still 
 
 Granlto Claret 
 
 • — • Punch, Iced 
 
 , Soman 
 
 Grape Wine, Sparkling 
 
 Groseiles, Slrop de 
 
 Heidelberg Punch, or Hebe's Cup 
 
 Hock Cup 
 
 Hop Tea 
 
 Hops and Sherry Cordial 
 
 Iced Punch 
 
 Imperial Drink 
 
 Punch, Cold 
 
 Julep, Pineapple 
 Koumiss 
 
 Lemon Kail 
 
 Liquor 
 
 or Orange Shrub 
 
 • Sherbet 
 
 Syrup 
 
 Tea 
 
 Water 
 
 Wine 
 
 (quickly madel 
 
 Lemonade 
 
 , Economical 
 
 , Effervescing 
 
 . Mock 
 
 , Nourishing 
 
 , Portable 
 
 Lemonade Syrup 
 
 Liqueurs 
 
 Lovage 
 
 Malmsey 
 
 Maraschino Syrup 
 
 Mat£ 
 
 Mead, Simple 
 
 , to Prepare 
 
 Milk and Cream, to Preserve 
 
 - — ■ Coffee, or Caf6 au lait 
 
 , Condensed 
 
 . Keeping in Summer 
 
 Cream or 
 
 Lemonade 
 
 Punch 
 
 Sugared, or Lait Sucr§ 
 
 , to Preserve 
 
 Toast 
 
 Whey, to Clarify 
 
 Mint Julep, American 
 Morella Cherry Brandy 
 Moselle Cup 
 Mulberry Syrup 
 
 Vinegar 
 
 Mulled Wine 
 
 (French recipe) 
 
 Nectar 
 
 Negus 
 Nettle Beer 
 Nightcap 
 Norfolk Punch 
 Noyeau 
 
 , Imitation 
 
 ^ , for Immediate ubb 
 
 (made with Honey) 
 
 Nutritive Drink 
 Oatmeal Gruel 
 
 Orange Brandy 
 
 Gin 
 
 Liqueur 
 
 or Lemon Shrub 
 
 Punch 
 
 Syrup 
 
 Wine 
 
 (easy method) 
 
 Orangeade 
 
 (for Keeping) 
 
 Orgeat of Montpellier 
 
 , or Almond Milk 
 
 Oxford Bishop 
 
 Grace Cup 
 
 Punch 
 
 Parsnip Wine 
 
 (simple method) 
 
 Perry and Cider 
 
 Persian Sherbet 
 Plleorade 
 Pineapple Cordial 
 Julep 
 
 Punch 
 
 Sorbet 
 
 Water 
 
 Pomegranate Water 
 Pope's Posset 
 Port Flip 
 
 Posset 
 
 of 
 
1132 
 
 cassell's new dictionary of cookery. 
 
 Posset, Ale 
 
 , Sack 
 
 , Wine 
 
 Potato Wine 
 Powders, Ginger Beer 
 
 , Lemonade 
 
 , , Effervescing 
 
 , Seidlttz 
 
 , Sherbet 
 
 , Soda-water 
 
 , Spruce Beer 
 
 Punch; (a la Fran^alae) 
 
 (a la Regence) 
 
 (a la Reine) 
 
 (a la Romaine, Iced) 
 
 (a la Victoria) 
 
 , Burnt 
 
 , English 
 
 for Hot Weather 
 
 , Hot 
 
 in Haste 
 
 . Milk 
 
 , Pony 
 
 Sorhet 
 
 , to Make 
 
 , Whiskey 
 
 Purl 
 Quass 
 Quince Juice 
 
 Liqueur 
 
 Wine 
 
 Quinces, RatatSa of 
 Raisin Cordial 
 
 Elder Wine 
 
 Wine 
 
 , with Cider (light) 
 
 , (strong) 
 
 Raspberry and Currant Wine 
 
 Brandy 
 
 Gin 
 
 Liqueur 
 
 Syrup 
 
 Vinegar 
 
 , to Make 
 
 , Superior 
 
 Whiskey 
 
 Ratafia Wine 
 
 . Apricot 
 
 , Blackberry 
 
 j Black Currant 
 
 , Cherry 
 
 , Common 
 
 , Cura^oa 
 
 , D'Angelique 
 
 , Gooseberry 
 
 , Noyeau 
 
 . Orange-flower 
 
 , Quince 
 
 , Raspberry 
 
 , Red 
 
 , Rose 
 
 , Strong 
 
 Red Champagne, British 
 
 Cordial Water 
 
 Refreshing Beverage 
 
 Drinks 
 
 Regent's Punch 
 Rennet Whey 
 Rhubarb Sherbet 
 
 Rhubarb Wine 
 Rice Beer 
 
 Caudle, or Rice Milk 
 
 , Savoury 
 
 , Ground, Milk 
 
 Milk 
 
 Water 
 
 Roman Punch, Iced 
 Rose Juice 
 
 Royal Punch 
 Rum 
 
 Shrub 
 
 Sack 
 
 Posset 
 
 Saffron Cordial Water 
 
 Tea 
 
 Sage Wine, Green 
 
 , Red 
 
 Sago Gruel 
 
 MiUc 
 
 Saloop, Decoction of 
 Sangaree 
 
 , American 
 
 , Danish 
 
 . Strong 
 
 , West Indian 
 
 Saratoga Cocktail 
 Sassafras 
 
 Cordial 
 
 Seldlltz Water, Bottled 
 Seville Orange Cardinal 
 
 Cordial Water 
 
 Syrup 
 
 Sherbet 
 
 , for Punch 
 
 . Lemon 
 
 Powder 
 
 , Rich 
 
 , Rhubarb 
 
 , Strawberry 
 
 Sherry and Egg 
 , British 
 
 Cobbler 
 
 Shrub, Brandy 
 
 , Lemon or Orange 
 
 , Rum 
 
 , Whiskey 
 
 , White Currant 
 
 Sleeping Cup 
 Sloe Gin 
 
 Wine 
 
 Soda-water, Milk and 
 Sorbet of Champagne 
 
 ■ — - Kirschenwasser 
 
 Rum 
 
 Spirits 
 
 Sportsman's Punch 
 Spruce Beer 
 
 , Essence of 
 
 Stout 
 Strawberry Acid 
 
 Cardinal 
 
 Chartreuse 
 
 Vinegar 
 
 Water 
 
 Wine 
 
 Sugar Vinegar 
 
 , Strong 
 
 Summer Drinks 
 
 Syrup for Liqueurs 
 
 of Apple 
 
 — - Barberries 
 
 Cowslips 
 
 — — Mulberries 
 
 Orgeat 
 
 Raspberry 
 
 Syrups, Fruit 
 Tamarind 
 
 Juice 
 
 Tankard Cup 
 Tea, Cold 
 
 , to Make 
 
 • , with Liqueur 
 
 Toddy, American 
 Treacle Posset 
 Turkish Sherbet 
 Wassail Bowl 
 Water. Cherry 
 
 Gruel 
 
 , Purification of 
 
 , Toast and 
 
 Waters, Iced, Fruit 
 Welsh Nectar 
 Whey 
 
 . Lemon 
 
 , Vinegar 
 
 , Wholesomeness of 
 
 Wine 
 
 Whiskey Cordial 
 
 ■ Punch 
 
 ■ Shrub 
 
 White Wine Negus 
 Windsor Syllabub 
 Wine, Apricot 
 
 , Beetroot. Red 
 
 , Birch 
 
 . Bitter 
 
 , Blackberry 
 
 Caudle 
 
 , Cherry 
 
 . , Red 
 
 , Cider 
 
 . Clary 
 
 , Coltsfoot 
 
 , Cowslip 
 
 , Currant, Red 
 
 , , White 
 
 , Damson 
 
 , Elderberry 
 
 from Grape Leaves and 
 
 Stalks 
 
 , Gilliflower 
 
 , Ginger 
 
 , Gooseberry 
 
 , Marigold 
 
 , Mulberry 
 
 , Mulled 
 
 , Claret 
 
 , Orange 
 
 , Peach 
 
 Punch 
 
 ■ — -, Raisin 
 
 , Spiced, or Bishop 
 
 , Strawberry 
 
 Test, Dr. Parls's 
 
 Wines, Alcohol in 
 
 , Analysis of 
 
 , Bottling of 
 
CLASSIFIED TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 1133 
 
 Wines, Choice 6{ 
 
 , Diseases of 
 
 , EfEerveseing 
 
 . Home-made 
 
 Wines, Keeping of 
 
 , Order of Serving 
 
 , Tasting of 
 
 Wines,- Varieties of 
 
 , Wholesomeness of 
 
 Yorkshire Punch 
 
 ENTRIES AND MADE DISHES. 
 
 Bacon and Calf's Liver 
 
 Olives 
 
 Bath Chap, Minced, with Eggs 
 Beans, Broad or Windsor, with 
 
 Ham or Bacon 
 Beef (a la Mode) 
 
 . Bachelor's, Stew 
 
 , Baked 
 
 Bones, Broiled 
 
 Braised, with Macaroni 
 
 , Breslan 
 
 Collops 
 
 , Curried 
 
 , Fillet of 
 
 — — , , Braised 
 
 ■ , with Mushrooms 
 
 , French, Stewed 
 
 , Fricandeau of 
 
 Frico 
 
 Gohbets 
 
 Kabohs 
 
 Lumber 
 
 Marinade 
 
 Marrow Bones 
 
 Olives 
 
 Palates 
 
 , Ragout of 
 
 . Rib Stakes 
 
 Rissoles 
 
 , Shin of. Stewed 
 
 , Spanish, Frico 
 
 ■ Steak (a la Mode) 
 
 , Breaded 
 
 ■ (en Casserole) 
 
 , Roasted and Stuffed 
 
 Tripe 
 
 Boar's Head, Boiled 
 Bones, Devilled 
 Brain Cakes 
 
 Brains, Sheep's, Fricasseed 
 Brandy, Ras'pberry 
 Bread Croustades 
 Bullock's Brains 
 
 Heart 
 
 Kidney 
 
 Tongue (a la Franjalse) 
 
 , Larded 
 
 , Miroton of 
 
 , with Plciuant Sauce 
 
 Cabbage and Bacon 
 
 Calf's Brains (i la Frangalse) 
 
 (a la Maltre d'Hotel) 
 
 and Tongue 
 
 (en Matelote) 
 
 , Fried 
 
 Chitterlings, Fraise, or 
 
 Crow 
 
 - Ears and Tomato Sauce 
 
 Feet 
 
 and Sauce 
 
 Foot (a la Poulette) 
 
 Calf's Foot, Baked or Stewed 
 
 ^^. Boiled, with Parsley 
 
 and Butter 
 
 , Curried 
 
 . Fried 
 
 , Roasted 
 
 , Stewed, with Herbs 
 
 Head (h la Pompadour) 
 
 (a la Poulette) 
 
 (a la Maltre d'Hotel) 
 
 (a ]a St. Men6hould) 
 
 (a la Tortue) 
 
 , Baked 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 Ragout 
 
 , Roasted 
 
 , with Mushrooms 
 
 , Oysters 
 
 Heart, Roasted 
 
 Kidney 
 
 Liver (Mock Pat4 de Fole 
 
 Gras) 
 
 and Tomatoes 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 Pluck 
 
 - — Sweetbread, with Mush- 
 rooms 
 
 Sweetbreads, Baked 
 
 . Braised 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 Tails 
 
 Tongues, with Tomato Sauce 
 
 Chafing Dish Recipes 
 
 Chicken Cutlets 
 -: — (en Matelote) 
 
 Kromeskles 
 
 , Pilaff of 
 
 Rissoles 
 
 Chowder 
 
 , Fish 
 
 Collops, Beef 
 
 , Savoury 
 
 ■ , , Minced 
 
 , Scotch 
 
 Cow-heel (au Naturel) 
 
 ■ , Fried 
 
 • , , with -Onions 
 
 Crab, Supreme of, with Tomatoes 
 Croquettes (au Finanoifere) 
 Curry, Madras 
 Devil, Dry 
 
 - — , Wet 
 Eels, Entree of 
 Fish Soup Quenelles 
 Fowl (a la Carlsford) 
 
 , Veal, or Rabbit Curry 
 
 Fricandeau 
 Frloandelle, Boiled 
 
 , Fried 
 
 Galantine of Sucking Pig 
 
 Veal 
 
 Game Curry 
 
 . to Devil 
 
 Goulache 
 Gwalia Toast 
 Ham, Kromeskles of 
 Haricot Mutton 
 
 (a la Bourgeoise) 
 
 , Normandy 
 
 of Roebuck 
 
 Ox Tail 
 
 Harslet, Pig's 
 Hash, Cracker 
 Heart, Bullock's 
 
 , , Stewed 
 
 , Calf's 
 
 , Sheep's, Baked 
 
 , , with Batter Pudding- 
 Herb Klosse, or Forcemeat Balls 
 Hog's Ears, Stuffed and Fried 
 Hot Pot 
 Hotoh-Potch, Ox Tail 
 
 - — ■ , Scotch 
 
 , Winter 
 
 Hungarian Tongue 
 Indian Burdwan 
 
 Curry 
 
 Pilau, Plain 
 
 - — - Pooloot 
 
 Veal Collops 
 
 Irish Stew 
 
 Tripe 
 
 Jersey Milk Curry 
 Kabobs, Beef 
 
 , Curried 
 
 , Mutton 
 
 Kew Mince, or Haggis Royal 
 Kidney Irish Stew 
 
 , Ox, Stewed 
 
 Kidneys and Bacon 
 
 Mushrooms 
 
 , Curried 
 
 , Grilled, and Tomatoes 
 
 , Minced 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 Kromeskles of Oysters 
 Lamb Brains and Tongue 
 
 , Breast of, Rolled 
 
 , . Stewed 
 
 , , , with Mush- 
 rooms 
 
 Cutlets (a la Jardinifere) 
 
 (a la Prinoesse) 
 
 (a la Robert) 
 
 (a la Soubise) 
 
 and Spinach 
 
 , Fried, with Peas 
 
 . Grilled 
 
 , or Chops, Stewed In 
 
 their own Gravy 
 
 , Fillets of 
 
 , Fricandeau of 
 
1134 
 
 CASSELL'S NEW DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. 
 
 Lamb, Fricassee of 
 
 . Liver ol, to Fry 
 
 , Roll of 
 
 Steaks Ragout 
 
 . Stewed, with Mushrooms 
 
 . , with Peas 
 
 , , Tomatoes 
 
 Stones and Sweetbread, to 
 
 Fricassee 
 
 Sweetbreads, Fried 
 
 , Larded 
 
 , Scalloped 
 
 , with Bacon 
 
 , with Rice 
 
 Lamb's Feet 
 
 Fry 
 
 Head and Mince 
 
 , to Prepare Brains 
 
 for 
 
 Heads, Stewed 
 
 Hearts, Fricasseed 
 
 Lancashire Hot Pot 
 Liver and Bacon 
 
 , Braised 
 
 , Curried 
 
 , Devilled 
 
 Fat, Ragout of 
 
 , Fried 
 
 Klosse 
 
 [iObscouse 
 Macaroni and Ham 
 
 Maintenon Cutlets (GouH§'s 
 
 method) 
 Malabar Curry 
 Meat Porcupine 
 Minced CoUops 
 Mushrooms and Bacon 
 
 and Kidneys 
 
 Mutton CoUops 
 
 ■ , Curried, Good 
 
 Cutlets (a la Maintenon) 
 
 — — (a la Minute) 
 
 (a la Portugalse) 
 
 (a la Provenfale) 
 
 (a la Royale) 
 
 : (a la Soublse) 
 
 , Italian 
 
 ■ , Marinaded 
 
 , Reform Club 
 
 , Devilled 
 
 Escalopes or CoUops, with 
 
 Fine Herbs 
 
 Glgot (a la Gascon) 
 
 Haggis 
 
 , Haricot 
 
 Hotch-potch 
 
 • , Kabobbed 
 
 Kidneys (a la Maltre 
 
 d-Hotel) 
 
 , Bread-crumbed 
 
 , Fried 
 
 , Stewed (a la Fran- 
 
 (;alse) 
 
 , Stewed, with Wine 
 
 , Ragout of, French 
 
 — -, Spiced 
 , Stewed 
 
 Tails 
 
 Tongues 
 
 Mutton Trotters 
 
 , with Mushrooms 
 
 Neats' Feet, with Parsley Sauce 
 
 Tongue (au Gratin) 
 
 NoulUes, with Ham 
 
 Olio 
 Olives, Beef 
 
 , Veal 
 
 OUa Podrida 
 
 Onions, with Beefsteak, &c. 
 
 Ox Brains (en Matelote) 
 
 , Fried 
 
 Cheek, Baked 
 
 , BoUed 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 Heart, Baked 
 
 Tall, Breaded and Broiled 
 
 • , Haricot of 
 
 , Simple Mode of Cook- 
 
 ing 
 
 . Stewed 
 
 , , with Green Peas 
 
 or Spinach 
 
 . Matelote Sauce 
 
 , Piquant Sauce 
 
 Tails (a la St. Lambert) 
 
 Oxford John, Mutton 
 Oysters, Poulets and 
 
 , Sweetbread and 
 
 , with Leg of Mutton 
 
 Partridges, Chartreuse of 
 
 Pheasant, Braised, and Rump 
 Steak. 
 
 Pheasant's Legs, Devilled 
 
 Pig's Ears 
 - — Feet (a la St. M^nehould) 
 
 and Ears 
 
 , Fricasseed 
 
 , Boiled (au Naturel) 
 
 Fry 
 
 Head, Roast 
 
 Kidneys, Broiled 
 
 , Fried 
 
 Liver, Baked 
 
 , Fried 
 
 Pettitoes, or Sucking Pigs' 
 
 Feet, Fried In Batter 
 
 Pettitoes, Stewed 
 
 Pigeon, Pur4e of 
 Pigeons, Fricandeau of 
 
 , Pupton of 
 
 PUau 
 
 , Arabian 
 
 , Chicken 
 
 , Indian 
 
 of Fowl 
 
 Polish Buck 
 
 Cutlets 
 
 Pork and Codfish, Ragout of 
 
 Creplnettes 
 
 , Curried 
 
 , Fillets of (a la Perlgueux) 
 
 Kidney, Stewed 
 
 , Leg of, as Goose 
 
 , with Liver 
 
 Potato Nest 
 
 Pot 
 
 Potatoes, Beef Steaks with 
 Poultry, Ragout of 
 
 Prussian Cutlets 
 
 Rabbit and Eel, Matelote of 
 
 — — Cutlets 
 
 , Glblottes of 
 
 , Matelote ol 
 
 , PUau ol 
 
 , Piquant 
 
 , Ragout ol 
 
 Badigue 
 
 Bice, Andalusian 
 
 and Chicken 
 
 (a, la Creole) 
 
 ' — — Egg Stew 
 
 Indian Curry 
 
 , Savoury 
 
 Roes, Herring, in Cases 
 
 , Mackerel, in Cases 
 
 , , Timbale of 
 
 BoUa Cheese 
 
 Rolls, Veal 
 
 Rosettl 
 
 Sea Stew 
 
 Sheep's Brains (a la Maltre d'Hdtel) 
 
 and Tongue 
 
 (en Matelote) 
 
 . Matelote of 
 
 , Roasted or Baked 
 
 , Scalloped 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 Harslet, Hashed 
 
 Head, Curried 
 
 , Hashed 
 
 Hearts 
 
 , Baked 
 
 Kidneys, Broiled 
 
 . (M. tide's recipe) 
 
 , , Superior 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 , with Champagne 
 
 Liver (a la Franfaise) 
 
 , Fried 
 
 Mince 
 
 Tails 
 
 and Kidneys 
 
 , Broiled 
 
 , with Purge ol Green 
 
 Peas 
 
 , Rice 
 
 Tongues (au Gratin) 
 
 , with Cabbage Lettuces 
 
 — — , Turnips 
 
 Trotters, or Sheep's Feet 
 
 la la Poulette) 
 
 , Broiled 
 
 , Marinaded 
 
 , Simple Way ol Serving 
 
 . Stuffed 
 
 , with Cucumber 
 
 Skirts, Beef, to Stew with Kidneys 
 Soublse Sauce, Mutton Cutlets, with 
 Spanish OUa 
 
 Sweetbread and Tongue Cutlets 
 Bouch6es (a la Russe) 
 
 Cutlets, with Tomato Sauce 
 
 Kromeskles 
 
 Sweetbreads (a la Dauphine) 
 
 (a la Maitre d'Hotel) 
 
 and Palates, Stewed 
 
 (au Gratin) 
 
iSLASSIPIED TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 113S 
 
 Sweetbreads, Baked 
 
 , Broiled or Grilled 
 
 , Browned 
 
 , Cutlets of 
 
 . Cotelettes oJ 
 
 , Cutlets of, Frlpasseed 
 
 (en Casserole) 
 
 • — , Fried 
 
 . (simple method) 
 
 , Larded (a la Financl^re) 
 
 , Minced, In Paper Cases 
 
 . Bagout of 
 
 , Koast 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 , White 
 
 , with Mushroom TrufBes 
 
 Toad in the Hole 
 
 Tomato Beef 
 
 Tripe and Eggs, Fricasseed 
 
 Liver 
 
 Onions 
 
 . Baked 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 , Curried 
 
 , French Way of Dressing 
 
 , Fricasseed 
 
 , German Mode 
 
 , Grilled 
 
 , Normandy Way 
 
 , Boasted 
 
 , Stewed in Its own -Jelly 
 
 , , with Bacon 
 
 , with Tomatoes and Spinach 
 
 Trotters, Sheep's 
 
 , , Fried 
 
 , ' — , Marinaded 
 
 Turkey Giblets, Fricasseed 
 
 , with Turnips and 
 
 Potatoes 
 , Liver of, Curried 
 
 Pinions, Stewed 
 
 Turkish Pilau 
 
 Udder Beef 
 
 Veal, Bachelor's Stew of 
 
 , Blanquette of, from Fresh 
 
 Meat 
 
 , Breast of. Ragout of 
 
 , Calf's Head, Hashed 
 
 , Liver, Fried 
 
 Collops, Braised 
 
 , made with Fresh Meat 
 
 , Scotch 
 
 , Curry, made with Fresh 
 
 Meat 
 
 Cutlets (4. la Financlfere) 
 
 (S, I'ltalienne) 
 
 ■ (a la Maintenon)- 
 
 (A, la Pandon) 
 
 (S, la VSnitienne) 
 
 (a la Zingara) 
 
 and Bacon 
 
 Celery 
 
 -T— Mushrooms 
 
 Tomatoes 
 
 , Curried 
 
 , Farce of 
 
 — — , in Aspic 
 
 . Boasted (S, la Main- 
 
 tenon) 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 ■ — - , with Mushrooms 
 
 , Fricandeau of 
 
 , Fricassee of . . 
 
 , (German) 
 
 , Goose 
 
 , Grenadiu of 
 
 , Grenadins of 
 
 , Haricot 
 
 , Imitation of Mock Turtle 
 
 m Jelly 
 
 , Italian 
 
 , Jugged 
 
 . Kebobbed 
 
 Veal Kernels 
 
 Kidney 
 
 . Knuckle of, Ragoflt of 
 
 . , Stewed, with 
 
 Green Peas 
 
 , , Stewed, with 
 
 Macaroni 
 , , Stewed, with 
 
 Bice 
 
 , Minced and Scalloped 
 
 , Norman Haricot of 
 
 Olives 
 
 , Roasted 
 
 , Pilau of 
 
 Pluck 
 
 Quenelles 
 
 , Ragout of 
 
 Roulade 
 
 Roll, Baked 
 
 Scallops, Fried, 
 
 , Cold 
 
 , White 
 
 Stew 
 
 , Piquant 
 
 , with Green Peas. 
 
 ■ . Suprfime of 
 
 , Tendons of 
 
 , ■ (a la. Provenpale) 
 
 . . . Curried 
 
 , , Fried 
 
 . ■ , (a la 
 
 Villeroi) 
 
 , , Stewed 
 
 , ,■ , and Served 
 
 with Mixed Vegetables 
 
 , with Macaroni 
 
 Venetian Cutlets 
 Vienna Steaks 
 Vlndaloo 
 
 Volaille, Purfie de 
 Wild Boar Cutlets 
 Zephyrs (a la Parmentler) 
 
 Bloaters, Devilled 
 
 on Toast 
 
 Bream, to Dress 
 Brill, Boiled 
 
 , Braised 
 
 , Stuffed and Baked 
 
 Carp, Baked 
 , Boiled 
 
 (en Matelote) 
 
 , Fried 
 
 Roe 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 Caveach Fish 
 Char 
 Clams 
 Cockles, Boiled 
 
 , Pickled 
 
 Cod (& la B&chamel) 
 
 (a. la CrSme) 
 
 (a I'Bspagnole) 
 
 (a la Francalse) 
 
 (a la Maltre d'Hotel) 
 
 (& I'Ostende) 
 
 FISH, 
 
 Cod, Baked 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 , Crimped 
 
 , Fried 
 
 . Head and Shoulders 
 
 , Browned 
 
 , Salt, Fried 
 
 , , with Parsnips 
 
 , Savoury 
 
 Sound, Boiled 
 
 , Broiled 
 
 , Fricasseed 
 
 , Spiced or Stewed 
 
 Codlings, to Dress 
 Conger Eel, Baked 
 
 . Boiled 
 
 , Fried 
 
 , Roasted 
 
 Crab (au Gratln) 
 
 -^, Boiled 
 
 , Curried 
 
 , , Canapes of 
 
 , Devilled 
 
 of 
 
 Crab, Dressed 
 
 , Hot or Buttered 
 
 , Minced 
 
 , Mock 
 
 , Scalloped 
 
 , to Dress 
 
 Crayfish, Escalopes of 
 
 In Jelly 
 
 Cutlets of Lobster or Crab 
 
 Dabs 
 
 Dace 
 
 Dory, Boiled 
 
 , Filleted 
 
 Eels (a la Poulette) 
 
 (a la Tartare) 
 
 , Baked 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 , Broiled 
 
 , Collared 
 
 (en Matelote) 
 
 , Fricasseed 
 
 , Fried 
 
 , Mayonnaise of 
 
1136 
 
 CASSELL8 NEW DICTIONAET OF COOKERY. 
 
 Eels, 
 
 Potted 
 
 Haddock, with Poached Eggs 
 
 Lobster, Dressed, with Fauoe> 
 
 
 
 Rolled 
 
 
 Yorkshire Mode of Dressing 
 
 
 Piquante 
 
 
 
 Spatchcocked 
 
 Haddocks in Brown Sauce 
 
 
 Fricassee 
 
 
 Stewed 
 
 
 to Keep 
 
 
 Mlroton of 
 
 
 Stuffed (a la HoUandaise) 
 
 Hake, 
 
 Baked 
 
 
 Quenelles 
 
 Findon or " Finnan " Haddocks 
 
 
 Cutlets, Fried 
 
 
 Roast 
 
 
 , Fried 
 
 
 
 Fillets of, Fried 
 
 
 Scalloped 
 
 
 Haddocks, Grilled 
 
 Halibut (au Gratln) 
 
 
 Stewed 
 
 
 on Toast 
 
 
 Baked 
 
 Mackerel (& la Poulette) 
 
 Fish and Eggs 
 
 
 Boiled 
 
 
 Baked 
 
 
 (au Gratln) 
 
 
 CoUops, Baked 
 
 
 and Stuffed 
 
 
 
 Baked In Milk 
 
 , 
 
 Curried Slices of 
 
 
 Boiled 
 
 
 Balls 
 
 
 Cutlets 
 
 
 Broiled 
 
 
 Cakes 
 
 , 
 
 Fried 
 
 
 
 , and Tarragon Butter 
 
 , 
 
 Cold, to Ee-dresa 
 
 
 Steaks 
 
 
 Fillets of 
 
 , 
 
 Creamed 
 
 
 Stewed 
 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 
 Croquettes 
 
 
 StuHed and Baked 
 
 
 Fricasseed 
 
 
 Curry 
 
 Herrings (au Gratln) 
 
 J 
 
 Fried, French 
 
 
 Cutlets 
 
 
 Curried 
 
 
 Pickled 
 
 
 Eggs, Scrambled 
 
 , 
 
 Dutch, Fried 
 
 1 
 
 Soused 
 
 
 (en Matelote) 
 
 
 Fresh, Baked 
 
 
 with Fine Herbs 
 
 
 Fried 
 
 
 . Boiled 
 
 , 
 
 Wine, Stewed 
 
 , 
 
 (Jewish fashion) 
 
 , 
 
 . Broiled 
 
 Melts 
 
 Ragout of. Fish 
 
 
 Kedgeree 
 
 , 
 
 , (Scotch style) 
 
 Minnow 
 
 
 Macaroni 
 
 
 , Choosing 
 
 Mullet, Grey, Boiled 
 
 
 Malgre, to Dress 
 
 
 , Fried 
 
 
 , Broiled 
 
 
 
 Pats 
 
 
 Kippered 
 
 
 Red 
 
 
 Pickled 
 
 , 
 
 Marinaded (German recipe) 
 
 
 (H la Maltrc d'H6tel) 
 
 
 
 Ragoflt In Scallop Shells 
 
 , 
 
 Pickled 
 
 
 
 
 KechauflS 
 
 
 (French style) 
 
 
 (en Paplllotes) 
 
 
 Rissoles of 
 
 , 
 
 , to Cook 
 
 
 , with Tomato Sauce 
 
 
 (Salt), Boiled 
 
 
 Red, Broiled 
 
 
 Stewed 
 
 
 Scallop 
 
 , 
 
 , Bufled (a Scotch dish) 
 
 Mussels 
 
 
 
 Soup Quenelles 
 
 , 
 
 , Choosing 
 
 
 (& la Mariniere) 
 
 
 
 Toast 
 
 
 , Creamed 
 
 
 (& la Poulette) 
 
 
 to Boll 
 
 
 Salted at Home 
 
 
 and Rice 
 
 
 Broil 
 
 , 
 
 , with Potatoes 
 
 
 Boiled 
 
 , 
 
 Caveach 
 
 
 Smoked 
 
 
 Fried 
 
 
 Cook In Oven 
 
 
 , to Prepare 
 
 , 
 
 Ragoflt of 
 
 , 
 
 Fry 
 
 Irish Salmon Pickle 
 
 
 Scalloped 
 
 
 (Vol-au-Vent) 
 
 John Dory, Baked 
 
 
 Stewed 
 
 Flounders (au Gratln) 
 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 Oyster 
 
 , 
 
 Boiled 
 
 
 (en Matelote) 
 
 Oysters (4 la VlUerol) 
 
 
 Fricasseed 
 
 Kedgeree 
 
 
 and Eggs 
 
 
 Fried 
 
 Lamprey, Potted 
 
 
 (au Gratln) 
 
 
 Stewed 
 
 
 Stewed 
 
 
 Baked 
 
 Garfish 
 
 Lampreys Stewed (Worcester mode) 
 
 
 Boiled 
 
 Grayling, Baked 
 
 Ling, 
 
 Baked 
 
 , 
 
 Broiled 
 
 , 
 
 Broiled 
 
 , 
 
 Fried 
 
 
 in their Shells 
 
 
 Fried 
 
 — , 
 
 Slices of, Stewed 
 
 
 Browned In their own 
 
 Grey Mullet 
 
 Loach 
 
 
 
 gravy 
 
 Grilse 
 
 or Trout, to Pot 
 
 Lobster (i I'Amerioalne) 
 
 
 Curried 
 
 Gudgeon, Fried 
 
 
 {k, la Carlton) 
 
 
 , Indian 
 
 Gurnet, or Gurnard. Baked 
 
 
 (& la Cecil) 
 
 . 
 
 Fresh, to Distinguish 
 
 , 
 
 Boiled 
 
 
 
 (k la Creme) 
 
 
 Fricasseed 
 
 , 
 
 Fillets of 
 
 
 (k la Frangaise) 
 
 
 in the Pan 
 
 Haddock, Baked 
 
 
 (au Gratln) 
 
 
 Marinaded and Fried 
 
 , 
 
 Boiled 
 
 , 
 
 Baked (or a la Braise) 
 
 
 Pilau of 
 
 , 
 
 , with Egg Sauce 
 
 
 Balls 
 
 
 Preserved, How to Cook 
 
 
 Broiled 
 
 
 Bashaws 
 
 
 Scalloped 
 
 , 
 
 Creamed 
 
 
 Boiled 
 
 
 (simple method) 
 
 , 
 
 Crotites 
 
 
 Broiled 
 
 
 , with Mushrooms 
 
 , 
 
 Curried 
 
 
 Buttered 
 
 
 Stewed 
 
 , 
 
 Fillets of 
 
 
 Choosing a 
 
 
 
 , Economical 
 
 , 
 
 Flaked 
 
 
 Creamed 
 
 
 to Keep 
 
 , 
 
 Fricasseed 
 
 
 Croquettes 
 
 Parr 
 
 
 , 
 
 Fried 
 
 
 Curry 
 
 Perch 
 
 
 
 Plcklfid 
 
 
 
 Cutlets 
 
 
 (a la Maltre d'HOtel) 
 
 • 
 
 Stuffed (i la Waterford) 
 
 
 (quickly made) 
 
 
 Fried 
 
CLASSIFIED TABLE OP CONTENTS. 
 
 1137 
 
 Perch, Fried, with Herbs 
 
 , Grilled 
 
 . Potted 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 . In Wine 
 
 , Water Souohy 
 
 Periwinkle 
 Periwinkles, Boiled 
 Pike 
 
 (a la Genevolse) 
 
 (a la Venitienne) 
 
 Baked 
 
 Boiled 
 
 Crimped 
 
 Dressing of 
 
 (Izaak Walton's mode) 
 
 Larded and Baked 
 
 Roasted 
 
 Stewed 
 
 , in Gravy 
 
 Pilchards, Cooking of 
 . Curried 
 
 on Toast 
 
 Plaice (a la Duchesse) 
 
 (a la Richmond) 
 
 , Baked 
 
 . • (au Gratin) 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 , Broiled 
 
 , Choosine 
 
 . Curried 
 
 , Filleted 
 
 , , Stewed with Oysters 
 
 . Fried 
 
 . Stewed 
 
 , with Mushrooms 
 
 Pope or Ruffe 
 
 Porpoise 
 
 Prawn 
 
 Cutlets 
 
 Prawns and Shrimps, Choosing of 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 , Buttered 
 
 ■ , Curried 
 
 in Jelly 
 
 , Malay Curry of 
 
 . Shelling of 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 , to Boil 
 
 Ray or Maids 
 
 Red Eye or Rudd 
 
 Red Herrings or Bloaters, to 
 
 Fry 
 Red Mullet 
 
 , Baked 
 
 (en PaplUote) 
 
 , Filleted and Fried 
 
 , Fried 
 
 , Marinaded and Broiled 
 
 ; Stuffed 
 
 Rice, Mussels and 
 River Crah 
 Roach, Fried 
 Rockling 
 Roulette, Lobster 
 Roulettes, Fish 
 Royans 
 
 Broiled 
 
 Rudd or Red Eye 
 
 3u 
 
 Ruffe or Pope 
 Salad Sauce, Trout In 
 Salmon (S, I'AUemande) 
 
 (i I'Amiral), Soyer's recipe 
 
 (4 la Danois) 
 
 (4 la Genevese) 
 
 (& I'Indienne) 
 
 {k la Maltre d'H6tel) 
 
 (i la Milanalse) 
 
 (4 la Tartare) 
 
 and Green Peas 
 
 (au Bleu) 
 
 (au Court Bouillon) 
 
 Baked 
 
 . with Caper or Tomato 
 
 Sauce 
 Boiled 
 
 (4 la Marechal) 
 
 , Plain 
 
 Braized 
 
 Broiled 
 
 Caveach 
 
 Choosing 
 
 Cleaning of 
 
 Collared 
 
 Collops 
 
 Crimped 
 
 • and Boiled 
 
 , with Caper Sauce 
 
 , Lobster Sauce 
 
 Curried 
 
 Cutlets (a la Maitre d'Hotel) 
 
 , Broiled 
 
 . (en PapiUotes) 
 
 of, Fried 
 
 . Scotch 
 
 — , with Shallot Sauce 
 Fillets of 
 
 (a TAmerlcalne) 
 
 , Fried 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 , with Potatoes 
 
 Freshness of 
 
 Fried In Slices 
 
 Gwilts, or Salmon Peel 
 
 How to Cook 
 
 Imperial Fashion (Car^me's 
 
 recipe) 
 Importance of 
 Matelote of 
 Mayonnaise of 
 Peel 
 Stewed 
 to Carve 
 
 Trout 
 
 , Choosing of 
 
 , Stuffed and Baked 
 
 , with TrufSes 
 
 , Wholesomeness of 
 
 , with Caper Sauce 
 
 , Matelote Sauce 
 
 Salt Fish 
 
 (a la Maltre d'Hdtel) 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 Salt-water Fish, Wholesomeness of 
 Sardines 
 
 (a la Provencale) 
 
 , Curried 
 
 , Fresh 
 
 Sardines, Spinach with 
 
 , to Serve 
 
 Sauce, Fish and 
 Scad 
 
 Scalloped Fish 
 Scallops 
 
 , Fried 
 
 , Scalloped 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 Sea Bass 
 
 Bream 
 
 Shal 
 
 : , Boiled 
 
 , Broiled 
 
 , French way of cooking 
 
 , Fried 
 
 , Flanked, American 
 
 , Stuffed and Baked 
 
 , and Broiled 
 
 Shell-flsh, Bulsson or Thicket of 
 
 , Edible 
 
 Shrimp 
 
 Shrimps (4 la Dorisa) 
 
 and Asparagus 
 
 Prawns 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 , Buttered 
 
 — -, Choosing of 
 
 (en Coquilles) 
 
 , Lobsters, and Crabs 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 , to Shell 
 
 Skate 
 
 Smelts 
 
 Sole 
 
 (k la Bourgeoisie) 
 (4 la St. M^nehould) 
 (au Beurre Noir) 
 Boiled 
 
 in Stock 
 
 Choosing of 
 Crimped 
 Curried 
 Fried 
 
 , to Eat Cold 
 
 Marinaded 
 
 Stewed 
 
 to Clean and Prepare 
 
 with Black Butter 
 
 Black Butter Sauce 
 
 Caper Sauce 
 
 ■ Liver Sauce 
 
 Baked (an Gratin) 
 
 Broiled 
 
 Fried 
 
 with Anchovies and Capers 
 
 (a la Bordelaise) 
 
 (a la Colbert) 
 
 (a la Maitre d'HStel) 
 
 (4 la Meunlere) 
 
 (a la Mirdmesnil) 
 
 (4 la Ravlgote) 
 
 (au Gratin) 
 
 (au Gratin, a la Fran^aise) 
 
 Baked 
 
 (au Gratin) 
 
 (en Matelote NoT- 
 
 mande) 
 . with Fine Herbs 
 
1138 
 
 cassell's new dictionary of cookeet. 
 
 Sole, Baked, with Wine Sauce 
 
 Sturgeon (k la Eialto) | 
 
 Turbot (& la Crfeme Gratin) 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 
 
 (a la Russe) 
 
 (a la Crfeme d'Anchols) 
 
 , Buttered 
 
 
 (M. Ude's way) 
 
 and Lobster Sauce 
 
 , Choosing of 
 
 
 Baked 
 
 , Baked 
 
 , Curried 
 
 
 (a la Eeine) 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 , Cutlets of 
 
 , 
 
 Blanquette of 
 
 , Broiled 
 
 , Filleted 
 
 
 . with Peas 
 
 . , with Caper Sauce 
 
 , (a ritalienne) 
 
 
 Boiled 
 
 , Carving of 
 
 , (a la Tartare) 
 
 
 Ohoosiue of 
 
 , Choosing of 
 
 , and Marinaded 
 
 
 Cutlets 
 
 Fillets 
 
 , Rolled 
 
 
 Fresh, Grilled 
 
 . Ragotit of 
 
 , , Served with 
 
 
 Pried 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 Mussels 
 
 
 Boasted 
 
 Turtle 
 
 , , with White Sauce 
 
 
 Stewed 
 
 Water Souchet 
 
 , Fillets of (a I'Aurore) 
 
 
 . and Garnished with 
 
 Weaver Fish 
 
 , (a la Disppoise) 
 
 
 Sole 
 
 Whelks 
 
 , (a I'Orly) 
 
 
 Stufled and Boasted 
 
 Whitebait 
 
 , (a la Rochlort) 
 
 Tench 
 
 
 . Cooked 
 
 , (a la Windham) 
 
 
 Baked 
 
 , Devilled 
 
 — , (au Gratin) 
 
 
 Boiled 
 
 , Mock 
 
 , (au Tin Blanc) 
 
 
 Broiled, with Fine Herbs 
 
 White Fish and Sauce 
 
 , . Balled, with 
 
 
 Choosing of 
 
 Whiting 
 
 Sweet Herbs 
 
 
 Fried 
 
 — - (a I'ltallenne) 
 
 , (Turkish fashion) 
 
 
 Stewed 
 
 (au Gratin) 
 
 , FricaEseed 
 
 
 , with Poulette Sauce 
 
 (aux Fines Herbes) 
 
 , Fried 
 
 
 . Wine 
 
 , Baked 
 
 , in Oil 
 
 Terrapin 
 
 . Boiled 
 
 , Grenade of 
 
 Th Drnback 
 
 , Broiled 
 
 , in Cream 
 
 
 Boiled 
 
 , Choosing of 
 
 , Lemon 
 
 
 Fried 
 
 , Curried 
 
 , (a la Lisbon) 
 
 Trout 
 
 
 , Fillets of 
 
 , Mayonnaise 
 
 
 (a, la Genevese) 
 
 — , ^ (a la Julve) 
 
 , Normande 
 
 
 (a I'Aurole) 
 
 , (a la Maltre 
 
 , Paupiettes of Fillets of 
 
 
 and Anchovies 
 
 d' Hotel) 
 
 , Roulettes of 
 
 
 Baked 
 
 . (a la Tyrollenne) 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 
 Boiled 
 
 — . Fried 
 
 . Stuffed and Baked 
 
 
 Broiled 
 
 , , Economical 
 
 , with Mushrooms 
 
 
 Choosins of 
 
 , In Butter 
 
 , — Water Souohet 
 
 
 Collared 
 
 , Paupiettes of 
 
 Sprats 
 
 
 Filleted 
 
 — Pollack 
 
 , Baked 
 
 
 Fried 
 
 Pout 
 
 . Broiled 
 
 
 in Jelly 
 
 Quenelles 
 
 . Dried 
 
 
 Salmon 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 , Fried 
 
 
 Souchet 
 
 , Wholesomeness of 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 
 Stewed 
 
 — -, with Caper Sauce 
 
 Sterlet 
 
 
 , in Wine 
 
 , Herbs 
 
 Stock 
 
 
 Wayside Inn 
 
 , Shrimps 
 
 — -, Fish 
 
 
 with Genoese Sauce 
 
 , Sweet Herbs 
 
 Sturgeon 
 
 
 Green Peaa 
 
 , White Wine Sauce 
 
 (a la Cardinal) 
 
 Tunny 
 
 
 Yarmouth Bloaters 
 
 (a la Provenpale) 
 
 lurbot 
 
 
 FORCEMEATS, TINNED AND POTTED MEATS, SAUSAGES, 
 AND GALANTINES. 
 
 Anchovies, Potted 
 Anchovy Paste 
 Apple Mincemeat 
 
 Mould 
 
 Beef, Collared 
 
 , Corned 
 
 Forcemeat 
 
 , Galantine of 
 
 , Potted 
 
 Bologna Sausage 
 Brandy Mince for Pies 
 
 Brawn 
 
 of Sheep's He^d 
 
 • Ox Head 
 
 , Sussex 
 
 Calf's Head Brawn 
 , Collared 
 
 Char, Potted 
 
 Chestnut Forcemeat 
 
 Chicken and Ham, Potted 
 , Potted 
 
 Collared Meat 
 
 Crab, Potted 
 
 Crayfish, Potted 
 Fish, Forcemeat for 
 Forcemeat, Almond 
 
 Balls 
 
 — . Brain 
 
 — — • , Curry 
 
 , Egg 
 
 • for Mock Turtle Soups 
 
 , Butter 
 
 , Chestnut 
 
 for Baked Pike 
 
 Carp 
 
CLASSIFIED TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 1139 
 
 Forcemeat for Cold Pasties 
 
 ■ Fish, Soups, or Stews 
 
 Game 
 
 Goose 
 
 Hare 
 
 Meat Pies or BagoiUs 
 
 Perch 
 
 Pheasant 
 
 Pigeons 
 
 Quenelles 
 
 Eoast Pig 
 
 Turkey (Boast) 
 
 Turkeys 
 
 ol Beef 
 
 Fish 
 
 — ^ Game 
 
 Liver 
 
 Mushrooms 
 
 Onion 
 
 - — Oyster 
 
 Shrimp 
 
 Suet 
 
 Veal 
 
 Fowl, Potted 
 
 , Sausages of 
 
 , with Ham, Potted 
 
 Frankfort Sausages 
 Game, Forcemeat for 
 
 Sausages 
 
 Godiveau 
 
 Goose Stufang, Apple 
 
 , Chestnut 
 
 ■ , Potato 
 
 , Sage and Onion 
 
 (to Deprive of Offensive 
 
 Odour) 
 Gratln 
 
 Grilse or Trout, to Pot 
 Grouse, to Pot 
 Ham and Fowl, Potted 
 , Potted 
 
 Sausage 
 
 Sausages, Smoked, German 
 
 Hare, Forcemeat for 
 
 , Potted 
 
 Herrings, Potted 
 Italian Sausage 
 Jewish Sausages, or Chorlssa 
 Lamb, Breast of. Collared 
 Liver and Ham, Forcemeat of, for 
 Halsed Pies, &c. 
 
 Sausages 
 
 , Mecklenburg, Smoked 
 
 Lobster, Potted 
 
 Mackerel Caveach 
 Mecklenburg Liver Sausages 
 
 Sausages 
 
 Mince for Patties 
 Mincemeat 
 
 , Old Fashioned 
 
 , Eoyal 
 
 , with Beef 
 
 , without Beef 
 
 Mushrooms, Forcemeat of 
 Mutton, Breast of, to Collar 
 
 , Potted 
 
 Sausages 
 
 Neats' Feet, Potted 
 
 Neats' Tongue, Potted 
 Onion and Sage StufBng for Geese, 
 Ducks, or Pork 
 
 Stuffing for Chicken 
 
 Ortolans, Potted 
 
 Ox Cheek, Potted 
 
 Tongue, Potted 
 
 , Whole 
 
 Oxford' Sausages 
 
 , without Skins 
 
 Oysters, Forcemeat of 
 
 , Sausages of 
 
 Panada 
 
 Bread 
 
 lor Fish Forcemeat 
 
 Partridges, Potted 
 Pemmioan 
 
 Pheasant, Potted 
 Pig's Cheek, Potted 
 
 Feet and Ears in Jelly 
 
 Head and Feet in Brawn 
 
 , Collared 
 
 , , Superlative 
 
 , Moulded 
 
 , Scrapple of (AS&rlcan) 
 
 Pig, Sucking, Galantine of 
 
 , , Stuffing for 
 
 . , ol Chestnuts for 
 
 , , Potatoes for 
 
 , , Truffles for 
 
 Pike, Potted 
 , Stuffing for 
 
 Pork and Potato Sausages 
 Brawn 
 
 Cheese (& I'ltallenne) 
 
 Forcemeat 
 
 Sausages 
 
 - , Cooked 
 
 — - , without Skins 
 
 Saveloys 
 
 Potato Stuffing, for Grouse or 
 
 Sucking Pig 
 PoMed Head 
 
 Meat 
 
 — Basket 
 
 Potting 
 
 Poulards, Galantine of 
 
 Poultry, Forcemeat of 
 
 , Potted 
 
 Prawns, Potted 
 
 , Shrimps, or Crayfish, 
 
 Potted 
 Quails, Galantine of 
 Quenelles, Forcemeat lor 
 Babbit Cake 
 
 , Galantine of 
 
 , Marbled 
 
 . Potted 
 
 Sausages 
 
 , made from Cooked 
 
 Meat 
 
 , Tinned 
 
 Bice Stuffing, for Sucking Pig 
 Boiled Beef 
 
 Veal 
 
 Sage and Onion Stuffing, for Geese, 
 etc. 
 
 , Onion, and Apple Stuffing, 
 
 for Gease. etc. 
 
 Salmon Forcemeat, for Garnishing 
 
 Mould of 
 
 Moulded, in Jelly 
 
 Potted 
 
 Preserved 
 
 Tinned 
 
 . Hot, with Sauce 
 
 , Macaroni 
 
 Sardine Butter 
 Sardines, Potted 
 Sausage 
 
 Cakes (Soyer's) 
 
 , Italian 
 
 Sausage-meat Stuffing 
 
 , American 
 
 and Cabbage 
 
 , Baked 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 , Bologna 
 
 , Fried 
 
 , Fried with Apples 
 
 . Home-made 
 
 , Lyons 
 
 , Savoury 
 
 , Stewed, with Chestnuts 
 
 , Tomato 
 
 , to Prepare Skins for 
 
 , Veal 
 
 , with Cress and Pickles 
 
 Saveloys 
 
 Shad, Potted 
 
 Sheep's Tongues, Galantine of 
 
 Shrimp Forcemeat 
 
 Shrimps, Potted 
 
 ■ — , , Whole 
 
 Snipe, Potted 
 
 Spanish Sausages, or Chorlssas 
 
 Stuffing 
 
 , Alexandre Dumas 
 
 lor Hare, Meg Dod's 
 
 Stuffings, Forcemeat, Dr. Kitchener 
 
 on 
 Swan, Potted 
 
 Tinned Meats, Australian, etc. 
 Tomato Forcemeat 
 Tongue, Potted 
 Trout, Potted 
 Truffles, Potted 
 Turkey, Forcemeat of 
 
 . , Chestnuts for 
 
 , Galantine of 
 
 , Potted 
 
 Udder, Calf's, for Forcemeat 
 University Pork Sausages 
 Veal Brawn 
 
 , Collared 
 
 Forcemeat 
 
 , Boll ol 
 
 Godiveau 
 
 , Marbled 
 
 , Potted. 
 
 , , made with Fresh Meat 
 
 — , , with Tongue 
 
 Sausages 
 
 : , with Pork 
 
 Venison, Beef Potted in, Imitation 
 of 
 , Potted 
 
1140 
 
 CASSELL'S NEW DICTIONARY OF OOOKEBT. 
 
 Westphallan Sausages 
 Whiting Forcemeat 
 
 , Boudins of 
 
 Wild Duck, Stuffing for 
 
 Woodcock, Potted 
 Woodman's Sausages 
 Wurtemberg Sausages 
 
 Yorkshire Hare Cake 
 
 Veal Cake 
 
 Young Oxford Sausages 
 
 FRITTERS, SOUFFLES, AND PANCAKES. 
 
 Almond Fritters 
 
 Souffles 
 
 American Pancakes 
 Apple Fritters 
 
 Pancakes 
 
 Souffle 
 
 Apples (Souffle ol) In Elce 
 
 with Custard, Pancake of 
 
 Apricot Souffle 
 
 Arrowroot Fritters 
 
 - Souffle 
 Batter Fritters 
 Beef Fritters 
 Belgnets 
 
 Bloater Fritters, Curried 
 Bread and Butter Fritters 
 
 Fruit Fritters 
 
 Parsley Fritters 
 
 Calf's Foot Fritters 
 Carrot Fritters 
 Cauliflower Fritters 
 Celery Fritters, Curried 
 
 Souffles 
 
 Cheese Fritters 
 
 Pancakes 
 
 Souffle 
 
 Chicken Fritters 
 Cornflour Souffle 
 Cream Fritters 
 
 Pancakes 
 
 Curd Fritters 
 Currant Fritters 
 
 Pancakes 
 
 Dagmar Fritters 
 
 Egg Souffle, with Cheese 
 Fig Fritters 
 Franglpane Fritters 
 French Fritters 
 
 Pancakes 
 
 Souffle 
 
 Fritters (Plain) 
 Fruit Fritters 
 
 Souffle 
 
 German Fritters or Brioche 
 
 Fritters 
 Ginger Pancakes 
 Gooseberry Souffle 
 Ground Rice Souffle 
 
 itaddock Fritters 
 Ham Fritters 
 Indian Fritters 
 
 Meal Fritters 
 
 Pancake 
 
 Irish Pancakes 
 Kidney Fritters 
 Lemon Fritters 
 
 Souffle 
 
 Macaroon Souffle 
 Mincemeat Fritters 
 New England Pancakes 
 Noullles, Fritters of 
 Omelet Souffle 
 
 , Moulded 
 
 Orang^Custard Fritters 
 
 Fritters 
 
 Souffle 
 
 Oxford Pancakes 
 Oysters, Fritters of 
 
 , Omelet Souffle of 
 
 Pancake Balls 
 Pancakes 
 
 (& la Celestiue) 
 
 (i la Crfeme) 
 
 Pancakes, French 
 
 . Irish 
 
 , New England 
 
 , Plain 
 
 , Polish 
 
 , Queen of 
 
 . Elce 
 
 , Scotch 
 
 , Windsor 
 
 , without Eggs or Milk 
 
 Parsnip Fritters 
 Partridge, Souffle of 
 Peach Fritters 
 Pear Fritters 
 Pineapple Fritters 
 
 Souffle 
 
 Pink Pancakes 
 Polish Fritters 
 Pork Pancakes 
 Portuguese Fritters 
 Potato Flour, Souffl* 
 
 Fritters 
 
 Souffle 
 
 Punch Souffle 
 Raspberry Fritters 
 
 Souffles 
 
 Bhubarb Fritters 
 
 Eice and Ginger Fritters 
 
 Flour Pufls 
 
 Fritters 
 
 , Ground, Souffle of 
 
 Pancakes 
 
 , Ground 
 
 Souffle 
 
 ^— , made with Ground 
 
 Eice 
 Bose Pancakes 
 Boyal Fritters 
 Sago and .Onion Fritters 
 Salmon Fritters 
 
 Souffle, Cold 
 
 Salsify, Fried, or Salsify Fritters 
 
 Salt Fish Souffle 
 
 Sardine Fritters 
 
 Sausage Fritters 
 
 Sly Bread, or Bread Fritters 
 
 Snowball Fritters 
 
 Souffle (au rlz) 
 
 , Bread 
 
 , Carrot 
 
 , Coffee 
 
 , Cream 
 
 , Omelet 
 
 , Orange-flower 
 
 , Potato 
 
 , (au Citron) 
 
 , Poulets (a la Cr^me) 
 
 , Eamequlns 
 
 , Simple 
 
 Souffles 
 
 Spanish Fritters 
 Spinach Fritters 
 Strawberry Fritters 
 
 - Souffle 
 
 Sussex Fritters 
 Tomato and Cheese SoufBe 
 Vanilla Souffle 
 Venetian Fritters 
 Whiting, Souffle of 
 Windmill Pancakes 
 Yorkshire Fritters 
 
 MORS D'CEUVRES, GARNISHES, AND SAVOURIES. 
 
 Ale, with Cheese 
 
 Almonds, DeylUed 
 , Salted 
 
 Anchovies, Fried 
 
 on Toast 
 
 , to Fillet 
 
 Anchovy Eggs 
 
 Anchovy Olives 
 
 Toast 
 
 Angels on Horseback 
 Artichoke Bottoms 
 Aspic Jelly 
 Bloater Eoes 
 Burmese CroHtes 
 
 Burnet 
 
 Butter for Cold Dishes 
 
 Canapes 
 
 Caviare 
 
 , Croutons of 
 
 on Toast 
 
 , with Prawns 
 
CLASSIFIED TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 1141 
 
 Celery, Garnishing 
 
 Jelly, Meat, for Pies, Economical 
 
 Quenelles, for White and Clear 
 
 Cheese Aigrettes 
 
 , , , Superior 
 
 Soups 
 
 Canapes 
 
 ■ — , used In Stock for 
 
 , German 
 
 Croquettes 
 
 Kidney and Egg Toast 
 
 , Lobster, for Fish Soups 
 
 , Devilled, on Toast 
 
 Toast 
 
 , Moulding of 
 
 Paste 
 
 Kianeys (k la Broohette) 
 
 of Cod, Salmon, etc. 
 
 Straws 
 
 (a la Tartare) 
 
 Game 
 
 Cod Roe and Cream 
 
 , Curried 
 
 Grouse 
 
 Cutlets 
 
 , Devilled 
 
 Eabbit 
 
 Crab Butter 
 Crisped Parsley 
 
 , Fried, 
 
 - — , Grilled 
 
 Rabbit (en PaplUotes) 
 , Quenelles of 
 
 Croute-aux-Champlgnons 
 
 Lax 
 
 Radishes In White Sauce > 
 
 Croutons 
 
 Lemon Peel, to Preserve for 
 
 Ragout Financlere 
 
 (a I'Artois) 
 
 Garnishing 
 
 of Garlic, Mild 
 
 , Olive 
 
 Lobster Butter 
 
 -Aamaklns 
 
 Crumbs, Fried Bread 
 
 Macaroni Nudels 
 
 , Dutch 
 
 Devilled Biscuit 
 
 , to Boil 
 
 . Fried 
 
 Bones 
 
 Maitre d'Hotel Butter 
 
 — -, German 
 
 Edgings to Dishes 
 
 Marrow 
 
 , Pastry 
 
 Eggs for Salad 
 
 Bones 
 
 , with Ale or Wine 
 
 Empress Toasts 
 
 , Croustades of 
 
 Eayleigh Toast 
 
 Faggots, Baked 
 
 Toast 
 
 Red Beet 
 
 Fish, Jelly for 
 
 Mayonnaise (a la Gel^e) 
 
 Reform Chips 
 
 Toast 
 
 Meat Glaze, in a Hurry 
 
 Rice, Border 
 
 Fole Gras 
 
 Milanese Kagoflt 
 
 , of 
 
 Toast 
 
 Montpellier Butter (Beurre de 
 
 Roe Savoury 
 
 , Imitation 
 
 Montpelller) 
 
 Roes, Carp 
 
 Fowl Liver Garnish 
 
 Mushroom Toast 
 
 , Herring, on Toast 
 
 Game, Crumbs for 
 
 Mushrooms, Curried 
 
 of Fish, for Garnishing 
 
 Game Toast 
 
 • lor Garnish 
 
 . Salted (substitute for 
 
 Garnish (a la Jardlnifere) 
 
 Olive Croutons 
 
 Caviare) 
 
 , Asparagus for 
 
 Olives, Stuffed 
 
 , Smoked 
 
 , Beetroot for 
 
 , with Fole Gras ' 
 
 Rolls, Oyster 
 
 , Celery Sauce for 
 
 Onions, Brown, for Garnishing 
 
 Roman GniocchI 
 
 , Chlpolata for 
 
 Stews 
 
 Rosemary 
 
 , Cockscombs tor 
 
 , Fried 
 
 Eotl de Rognons de Veau 
 
 . Cucumber for 
 
 , Glazed, for Garnishing 
 
 Eump Steak, Broiled, Accompani- 
 
 , Salmon 
 
 Beef, &c. 
 
 ments to 
 
 , Eggs for 
 
 , White, lor Garnishing 
 
 Salmon, Bone, Broiled 
 
 , for Poultry, Game, &e. 
 
 Stewed Chicken or Veal 
 
 Bouchees 
 
 , Fowls' Livers for 
 
 Orange and Lemon Candled Kings 
 
 Canapes 
 
 , Fried Bread for 
 
 for Garnishing 
 
 , Devilled 
 
 , Glazed Onion tor 
 
 Ox Tongue Toast 
 
 Forcemeat, for Garnishing 
 
 , Green Peas tor 
 
 Oyster, Prairie 
 
 Quenelles 
 
 , Mushrooms for 
 
 Oysters (a la Maitre d'Hotel) 
 
 Eoe, Fried 
 
 , Parsley Fried for 
 
 , Croquettes of 
 
 Eoes, Caviare of 
 
 • . Potatoes Fried for 
 
 , Devilled 
 
 , Smoked 
 
 , Purge ol Green Peas tor 
 
 . Fried 
 
 Sardine Toast 
 
 , Tomatoes for 
 
 , Loaves of 
 
 Sardines and Crab, Savoury of 
 
 , Turnips for 
 
 Parmesan Cheese Straws 
 
 , Canapes of 
 
 , Truffles for 
 
 Fondue 
 
 Sausage Toast 
 
 German Toast 
 
 Parsley, Crisp 
 
 Savoury Toasts 
 
 Gnocchis (a la rran?alse) 
 
 , Fried 
 
 Shrimp Canapes 
 
 Ham, Garnishing and Ornamenting 
 
 Partridge, Croustades of 
 
 Toast, with Eggs 
 
 , Glazing of 
 
 Pastry Kamakins 
 
 Sippets, for Garnishing Dishes 
 
 Toast 
 
 Pistachio Kernels, Burnt 
 
 , Superlative 
 
 Toasts, or CroAtes au 
 
 Nuts 
 
 Sole, Savoury of 
 
 Jambon 
 
 Potato Straws 
 
 Sorrel, for Garnishing Meat 
 
 Hamburg Steak 
 
 Potatoes, Fried, Garnish of 
 
 Spinach, Croustades of 
 
 Herrings, Eed, Mock Anchovy 
 
 Poutarg 
 
 Sugar, Small Ornaments of 
 
 Toast of 
 
 Prawn Canapes 
 
 Tagllatelll 
 
 , , Savoury of 
 
 Prawns (a la Franjaise) 
 
 Toast, Buttered, and Cheese 
 
 , Eoes of, on Toast 
 
 (a la Mantalini) 
 
 , for Soup 
 
 Holly Leaves, to Frost, for Gar- 
 
 , Cold, to Dish 
 
 , Savoury 
 
 nishing 
 
 In Aspic 
 
 , to Prepare, for Roast Game 
 
 Horse-radish for Garnish 
 
 Puffed Egg Toast 
 
 Toasts, Hamburg 
 
 Jardiniere 
 
 Quenelles 
 
 Tomato Toast 
 
 Jelly for Pies, to Clarify 
 
 as Garnish 
 
 Toulouse Eagoflt 
 
 , Meat, for Cold Pies 
 
 , for Turtle Soup 
 
 Truffles for Garnish 
 
1142 
 
 CASSELLS NEW DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. 
 
 Turbot, Roe ol 
 Turkey, Devil ol, Dry 
 
 , , with Sauce 
 
 Turnips tor Garnish 
 Turtle Soup, Forcemeat Quenelles 
 for 
 
 , Mock, Brain Balls for 
 
 Turtle Soup, Mock, Curry Balls tor 
 
 , , Egg Balls for 
 
 Teal, Call's Brains (a la Ravlgote) 
 
 ,' Curry, Forcemeat Balls tor 
 
 , Kidney (4 la Maitre d'HOtel) 
 
 , , Broiled 
 
 Veal, Kidneys, Roasted 
 Vegetables, Mac^doine of 
 Venison Olives 
 Welsh Eareblt 
 Wild Duck, Fillets of 
 Woodcock, Scotch, or Woodcock 
 Toast 
 
 INVALID AND INFANT COOKERY. 
 
 Almond Milk 
 
 Syrup 
 
 Apricot Jelly 
 Arrowroot Cup 
 
 , Nourishing 
 
 Water 
 
 Barley Gruel 
 
 Water 
 
 Beet Tea 
 Biscuit Powder 
 Bread Jelly 
 Call's Foot Jelly 
 Chicken Broth 
 
 Panada 
 
 Soup, Delicate 
 
 Tapioca Soup 
 
 Chop, Invalid's 
 Cinnamon, Tincture of 
 Cornflour 
 
 Cow-heel 
 
 Cranberry Gruel 
 
 Cup Pudding 
 
 Eels, Boiled, Jor Convalescents 
 
 Fowl Jelly 
 
 Fruit Pie tor Invalids 
 
 Game Panada 
 
 Gloucester Jelly 
 
 Gruel, Barley 
 
 . Effervescing 
 
 , Oatmeal 
 
 of Patent Oats 
 
 Hyssop Tea 
 Iceland Moss Jelly 
 Invalid's Cutlet 
 
 Lemonade 
 
 Soup 
 
 Irish Moss 
 Isinglass Jelly 
 Ivory Dust Jelly 
 
 Jelly 
 
 Jelly Bread 
 
 Jelly for the Sick 
 
 , Weak Wine 
 
 Koumiss 
 
 Lemonade tor Invalids 
 
 , Nourishing 
 
 Linseed Tea 
 
 Liquorice and Liquorice Root 
 
 Macaroni, Brown 
 
 Malt, Extract of 
 
 Marshmallow Water 
 
 Milk Suet 
 
 Mulberry Juice 
 
 Water 
 
 Muttor and Vegetables, Stew of 
 
 Bone Jelly 
 
 Boudlns 
 
 Broth 
 
 , Nourishing and Deli- 
 cate 
 
 Tea 
 
 Nutritive Drink 
 Onion Porridge 
 
 Orange and Lemon Juice tor Colds 
 
 ■ Marmalade 
 
 Orange-flowers, Tea of 
 Oysters for Invalids 
 Panada 
 
 , Chicken 
 
 Partridges, Boiled 
 Peach Foam 
 Pectoral Broth 
 
 Plum Beverage, French, tor In- 
 valids 
 Posset 
 
 , Cornflour (for a cold) 
 
 , Treacle 
 
 Pot-au-Feu, Household 
 Poultry for the Sick 
 Prunes, Tisane of, for Irritation of 
 the Throat 
 I Puddings for Invalids 
 
 Quince Kernels 
 
 Refreshing Drink for the Sick. 
 
 Restorative Broths 
 
 Meat Jelly 
 
 Rice Gruel 
 
 Soup 
 
 Water for Invalids 
 
 Rose Tea 
 
 Rum and Milk 
 
 Sack Whey 
 
 Sage Gargle, for Sore Throat 
 
 Tea 
 
 Sago tor Invalids 
 
 Soup, Restorative 
 
 Sassafras 
 
 Saucer Pudding 
 
 Savoury Custard for Invalids 
 
 Sea Holly 
 
 Sedentary, Diet for the 
 
 Sheep's Head for Invalids 
 
 Trotters, Jelly from 
 
 Sick, Cooking for the 
 Sippets lor Invalids 
 Smelts, Boiled, for Invalids 
 Soja 
 
 Sole for a Convalescent 
 Soup for Children, Lelbig's 
 Suet Milk 
 
 Porridge 
 
 Tapioca lor Invalids 
 Toast and Water 
 Tripe for Invalids 
 Veal Broth for Invalids 
 
 Tea for Invalids 
 
 Vermicelli Jelly 
 
 Vinegar and Lemon Whey 
 
 Violet Tea 
 
 Whey, Irish 
 Wine Lozenges 
 Wine Whey, White 
 
 JAMS, JELLIES, PRESERVED FRUITS, AND FRUIT DISHES. 
 
 Almond Apples 
 Angelica, Candied 
 Apple Birds' Nests 
 
 Black Caps 
 
 Butter, American 
 
 Chartreuse 
 
 Cheese and Cream 
 
 Flummery 
 
 Fool 
 
 Gatea'- 
 
 Apple Ginger 
 
 • Hedgehog 
 
 Jam 
 
 Jelly 
 
 Juice for Jelly 
 
 Mange 
 
 Marmalade 
 
 Pupton 
 
 Snow 
 
 , with Spongecake 
 
 Apple Snowballs 
 
 Solid 
 
 Tansy 
 
 Apples (a I'Adeline) 
 
 (a la Cherbourg) 
 
 (& la Marie) 
 
 (S. la Portugaise) 
 
 and Rice 
 
 , Baked 
 
 . (for Children.) 
 
CLASSIFIED TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 1U3 
 
 Apples, Buttered 
 
 Compote of 
 
 Frosted 
 
 Miroton of 
 
 Preserved 
 
 Red Hot 
 
 (Red) with Jelly 
 
 Stewed 
 
 , Chartreuse of 
 
 , Compote of 
 
 Apricot Chips 
 
 Jam 
 
 , Green 
 
 Marmalade 
 
 Preserve 
 
 Toast 
 
 Apricots (au Biz) 
 
 CompSte of 
 Flanc of 
 Frosted 
 
 Preserved In Jelly 
 (Tinned), with Cream 
 to Bottle 
 
 Candy 
 
 Bry 
 
 Preserve 
 
 with Bavarian Blancmange 
 
 Eice 
 
 Ashberry, or Rowan Jelly 
 Bananas, Bavarolse of 
 
 , Fried 
 
 , with Cream 
 
 Barberries, to Candy 
 
 , Preserve 
 
 Barberry Jam 
 
 • Jelly 
 
 Marmalade 
 
 Beetroot Preserve 
 Belgnets of Strawberries 
 Bermuda Witches 
 BifBns 
 
 Blackberry and Apple Fool 
 
 Jam 
 
 Jam 
 
 Jelly 
 
 Black Currant Cheese 
 
 Jam 
 
 Jelly 
 
 Preserve 
 
 Cherries, Candled 
 
 , Compote of 
 
 . Dried 
 
 , Frosted 
 
 , Kentish, Comp6te of 
 
 , Morella, Brandled 
 
 . , to Preserve 
 
 , Preserved In Syrup 
 
 , to Bottle 
 
 , Preserve 
 
 Cherry Jam 
 
 Paste 
 
 Chestnuts, Comp6te of 
 CompStes, Syrup for 
 Crab Apples, Siberian 
 
 , , Jelly 
 
 Cranberries, to Preserve 
 Cucumbers, Preserved 
 Currant Fool 
 
 Jam, Black 
 
 Currant Jam, Red and White 
 
 Jelly, Black 
 
 — , Red 
 
 ,■ White 
 
 Paste 
 
 Currants, Compote of 
 
 , Iced 
 
 , to Bottle 
 
 , Clean 
 
 , Keep 
 
 Damson Cheese 
 
 Jam 
 
 Jelly 
 
 Damsons, Baked 
 
 , Bottled 
 
 , Compflte of 
 
 , Preserved 
 
 Festive Jelly 
 
 Figs, Green, Compote of 
 
 . Preserved 
 
 • , Stewed 
 
 , , and Custard 
 
 Florentine of Oranges and Apples 
 French Plums, Stewed 
 Fruit. Compote of 
 
 (Gateaa de Pommes) 
 
 , in Brandy 
 
 — -, Maofidolne of 
 
 Pastes 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 , to Bottle 
 
 , , with Sugar 
 
 , to Candy 
 
 Fruits, Tinned 
 
 GSteau of Mixed Fruits 
 
 Ginger, Preserved 
 
 , , Imitation of 
 
 Golden Pippins, to Preserve 
 Gooseberries, Dried, tor Winter 
 Dessert 
 
 , Green, Compote of 
 
 , , to Bottle 
 
 , , Preserve Whole 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 Gooseberry Charlotte 
 
 Cheese 
 
 Fool 
 
 Jam 
 
 , Green 
 
 , Red 
 
 , White or Yellow 
 
 Jelly 
 
 , Green 
 
 Grape, Green, Marmalade 
 
 Jelly 
 
 Grapes 
 
 , Pickled 
 
 , to Preserve 
 
 , in Brandy (for 
 
 Winter Dessert) 
 Green Caps 
 Greengage Jam 
 
 Marmalade 
 
 Mould 
 
 Greengages, Compote of 
 
 , to Bottle 
 
 , Brandy 
 
 , Candy 
 
 , Preserve Dry 
 
 Greengages, to Preserve in Syrup 
 
 , with Cream 
 
 GroselUes, Strop de 
 
 Hartshorn Jelly 
 
 Hip Jam 
 
 Jam, General Observations on 
 
 , Imitation 
 
 , Mixed, for Nursery Use 
 
 , . Superior 
 
 , to Keep 
 
 Jargonelle Pears, to Bake 
 
 , to Preserve 
 
 Lemon and Rhubarb Jam 
 
 Curd 
 
 Marmalade 
 
 Mincemeat 
 
 Peel, to Candy 
 
 , Whole, to Keep for Use 
 
 Limes, to Preserve 
 Macedolne of Fruits in Syrup 
 Magnum Bonum, or other large 
 Plums, Compote of 
 
 • Plum Jam 
 
 — ^ Plums, to Preserve 
 
 Marmalade, Orange 
 
 . , Grated 
 
 , , Scotch 
 
 . , Transparent 
 
 Melon 
 
 , Compote of 
 
 Glac6 
 
 , Preserved 
 
 Meringue of Apples 
 
 Red Currants 
 
 Mixed Jam 
 Mulberries, Preserved 
 Nectarine and Almond Salad 
 Nectarines and Peaches 
 
 , Candied 
 
 , Preserved 
 
 Norfolk Bifflns, Dried 
 Normandy Pippins, Stewed 
 Orange, 
 
 and Raisin Compote 
 
 Chips 
 
 Compote, with Cocoa-nut 
 
 , Pineapple 
 
 Fool 
 
 , Iced 
 
 Jelly 
 
 Marmalade 
 
 (easy method) 
 
 (old-fashioned method) 
 
 , with Honey 
 
 Peel, Candied 
 
 Orange-Apple Jelly 
 
 Oranges and Apples, CsmpOte of 
 
 , Coloured, for Dessert 
 
 , Compote of 
 
 , Moulded 
 
 - — , Iced 
 
 , in Syrup 
 
 Orleans Plums (to Bottle lor 
 
 Winter Use) 
 Peach 
 
 Jam or Marmalade 
 
 Peaches, Bottled 
 
 , Brandled 
 
 , Compote of 
 
1144 
 
 cassell's new dictionary of cookery. 
 
 Peaches Preserved In Brandy 
 
 , Whole 
 
 Pear 
 
 Charlotte 
 
 Jam 
 
 Marmalade 
 
 Pears, Baked 
 
 Compote of 
 Frosted or Iced 
 in Jelly 
 
 Jargonelle, Preserved 
 Meringue of 
 Preserved 
 
 , Red 
 
 Stewed 
 
 In Butter 
 
 Vinegar 
 
 ■ , to Colour 
 
 , with Rice 
 
 Peninsular Preserve 
 Pineapple, Bottled 
 
 , , without Boiling 
 
 , Brandied 
 
 • Chips 
 
 , Compote of 
 
 GlacS for Dessert 
 
 Jam 
 
 Marmalade 
 
 , Preserved 
 
 , (for short period) 
 
 , to Cut lor Serving 
 
 Pippins, Frosted 
 , Norijjandy, Dried 
 
 Plum 
 
 and Pear Jam, without 
 
 Sugar 
 
 Cheese 
 
 • Jam 
 
 Jelly 
 
 ■ Kalteschale 
 
 Marmalade 
 
 Plums, Candied 
 
 , Compote of 
 
 , French, or Dried 
 
 , , Stewed, for Dessert 
 
 , Magnum Bonum, Preserved 
 
 , Preserved, Dry 
 
 , , for making Pies 
 
 Pomegranate 
 
 Preserved Fruit in Pastry 
 
 Preserves, Fruit 
 
 Prickly Pear, or Indian Fig 
 
 Prunes and Prunelloes 
 
 , Stewed, for Dessert 
 
 Pumpkin Curry 
 
 , Preserved 
 
 Pumpkins (k la Parmesan) 
 Quince 
 
 and Apple Marmalade 
 
 Cheese 
 
 Marmalade 
 
 , Superior 
 
 Quinces, Brandied 
 
 , Compote of 
 
 , Preserved 
 
 , , Whole 
 
 Raisin 
 
 Cheese 
 
 Raisins, Stewed 
 
 , Varieties of 
 
 Raspberries 
 
 Bottled 
 
 , without Boiling 
 
 Compote of 
 
 Iced, for Dessert 
 
 Prepared for Dessert 
 
 Preserved 
 
 , Whole 
 
 White, Preserved Whole 
 Raspberry and Currant Jam 
 
 Rhubarb Jam 
 
 Fool 
 
 Jam 
 
 (Superior) 
 
 Jelly 
 
 Paste 
 
 , Wholesomeness of 
 
 Red Currant ^ 
 
 Red Currants and Kaspberries, 
 
 Compote of 
 Red Pears, to Preserve 
 Rennet 
 Rhubarb 
 
 and Orange Jam 
 
 , Blanching of 
 
 , Compote of 
 
 Fool 
 
 Jam 
 
 , to Imitate Preserved 
 
 Ginger 
 
 Rhubarb^ Stewed 
 Rlbston Pippin 
 Rice and Apples 
 
 , Apple 
 
 Rosemary Flowers, to Candy 
 
 Rowan 
 
 Russian Mode of Preserving Fruit 
 
 Service Berries 
 
 Seville Orange 
 
 Jelly 
 
 Shaddock Orange 
 
 Siberian Crab Apples, Preserved 
 
 , to Preserve Whole 
 
 Snow, Apple 
 
 Store Fruit, Wholesomene^ of 
 Strawberries 
 
 and Cream 
 
 , Bottled 
 
 , . for Flavouring pur- 
 poses 
 
 , Compete of 
 
 , Preserved 
 
 , In Wine 
 
 , Whole 
 
 , Wholesomeness of 
 
 Strawberry, Alpine 
 
 Fool 
 
 Jam 
 
 , Superior 
 
 Jelly 
 
 Suedolse of Peaches 
 Sugar for Jams 
 Syrup for CompStes 
 Tamarind Oranges, Frosted 
 f omato Marmalade 
 Tomatoes, Preserved 
 Veget&ble Marrow Marmalade 
 
 Preserve 
 
 , Preserved 
 
 Walnut 
 
 Jam 
 
 Walnuts, to Preserve 
 
 Whipped Strawberries and Cream 
 Whortleberry 
 
 Jam 
 
 Wickham Pears 
 
 Wine-sour Plums, to. Preserve, 
 
 Excellent 
 Wine-sours, to Preserve 
 
 JOINTS AND PLAIN MEAT. 
 
 Australian Meat, Frozen 
 
 Meats, Tinned (see Tinned 
 
 Australian Meats) 
 Beef, Aitchbone of, Roasted 
 
 (a la Flamande) 
 
 (a la Polonaise) 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 , Braised 
 
 . Brisket, Stewed 
 
 , Fried Rump Steak 
 
 , Ribs of 
 
 . Roast 
 
 , Round of. Boiled 
 
 . Sirloin of (a la Godard) 
 
 Beef, Sirloin of, Roast 
 
 Skirts 
 
 Steak 
 
 and Cucumbers 
 
 , Fried 
 
 , Porterhouse 
 
 , Rump 
 
 , Stewed Leg of 
 
 , with Sauce Fspagnole 
 
 , Yorkshire Pudding 
 
 Chops, Broiled 
 
 , Fried 
 
 , Stewed, with Onion 
 
 Cutlets (a I'ltalienne) 
 
 Cutlets & la Malntenon) 
 
 (a la Venltlenne) 
 
 (au Jambon) 
 
 , Lamb (a la Dauphlne) 
 
 , Veal (a la Chlngara) 
 
 German Onion Beef 
 
 Italian Steak 
 
 Kid 
 
 (a la Poulette) 
 
 , Roast 
 
 Lamb 
 
 , Baked, and Rosemary 
 
 , Bladebone of, Broiled 
 
 , Boned, Quarter of 
 
CLASSIFIED TABLE OP CONTENTS. 
 
 1145 
 
 Lamt, 
 
 Boned, Shoulder of 
 
 Mutton, Loin of, Stewed, with 
 
 \Pork, Loin of. 
 
 Marinaded and 
 
 
 Braised 
 
 
 Pickles 
 
 Baked 
 
 
 , 
 
 Breast of, and Peas 
 
 
 Neck of. Boiled 
 
 
 Boast 
 
 , 
 
 , Braised (or Lamb 
 
 
 , Browned 
 
 . , 
 
 Savoury 
 
 
 k la Hllauaise) 
 
 , 
 
 , Boasted 
 
 
 with Fried 
 
 , 
 
 , Broiled 
 
 
 Boast, with Garlic (German 
 
 
 Potatoes 
 
 
 Chops and Potatoes 
 
 
 recipe) 
 
 
 Sauce Robert 
 
 
 . Broiled 
 
 
 Saddle of (a la Portugaise) 
 
 , Neck of. Boiled and Boasted 
 
 
 , Fried 
 
 
 — ^, Boasted 
 
 . Rolled 
 
 
 
 , , with Parmesan 
 
 , 
 
 Scrag (a la M«n6hould) 
 
 , Saddle of 
 
 , Boasted 
 
 
 , with Cucumber Sauce 
 
 
 Shoulder of (Scotch recipe) 
 
 , Spare Bib of. Baked 
 
 
 , Herbs 
 
 
 . Broiled 
 
 , 
 
 , Boasted 
 
 
 Cooked Whole (a 
 
 
 , Boasted 
 
 Porterhouse Steak 
 
 
 I'Espagnole) 
 
 
 — — , Stewed 
 
 Boast Meat, Wholesomeness of 
 
 
 Fore-quarter of, to Roast 
 
 
 . Stuffed 
 
 Bump, Boasted 
 
 
 
 Hind Quarter of 
 
 
 Steaks, French .. 
 
 Steak 
 
 
 
 
 Larded 
 
 
 Stewed and Baked 
 
 , Baked, with Onions 
 
 
 Leg of, Boiled 
 
 
 Turaue 
 
 Broiled, with Onion 
 
 ^ 
 
 , Hoast 
 
 Ox Tongue, Boiled 
 
 Gravy 
 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 
 ■ , Fresh, Boiled 
 
 , Neapolitan 
 
 
 , , with Be- 
 
 
 , , Larded 
 
 , Savoury 
 
 
 chamel Sauce 
 
 
 , , Boasted 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 
 Loin of. Braised 
 
 
 , i Stewed 
 
 
 with Onions 
 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 Pig, Sucking 
 
 , , 
 
 Oysters 
 
 
 Neck of. Boiled 
 
 
 (a la Franjalse) 
 
 , , 
 
 Piquant 
 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 
 , Baked 
 
 
 Sauce 
 
 
 Saddle of 
 
 
 , Broiled 
 
 , Stuffed 
 
 
 . Boned, Boiled, 
 
 
 —, Boast 
 
 Saddle of Mutton, Carving of 
 
 
 and Braised 
 
 
 , Scalded 
 
 Sheep's Head 
 
 
 
 Shoulder of 
 
 , 
 
 , Stuffed 
 
 , Baked 
 
 
 , Grilled 
 
 Pork 
 
 
 , , 
 
 with Mashed 
 
 
 , Stuffed and 
 
 
 (a la Blanquette) 
 
 
 Potatoes 
 
 
 Braised 
 
 
 
 (a la Franpaise) 
 
 , Boiled, with Vege- 
 
 
 , with Truffles 
 
 
 (a I'ltalienne) 
 
 tables 
 
 
 Steaks, Brown 
 
 
 
 (a la Mode) 
 
 , Stuffed and Boasted 
 
 
 Target 
 
 
 Bladebone of 
 
 Sirloin of Beef 
 
 
 
 with Cucumber 
 
 
 Boiled 
 
 ■ , 
 
 Boasted 
 
 Mutton 
 
 , 
 
 Breast of, with Bice 
 
 Tongue, Dresdei 
 
 
 
 Breast of, Boiled 
 
 
 Choosing of 
 
 , Fresh Ox 
 
 
 
 . with Peas 
 
 
 Chops 
 
 , Hungarian 
 
 
 Chops 
 
 
 
 , Bread-crumbed 
 
 Tongues, Sheep's 
 
 
 
 (a la Bretonne) 
 
 
 , and Broiled 
 
 Veal 
 
 
 
 (a la Soyer) 
 
 
 , Broiled 
 
 (a la Bourgeoise) 
 
 
 (en Casserole) 
 
 
 , Fried 
 
 (a la Chartreuse) 
 
 
 , Grilled 
 
 
 , Savoury 
 
 and Fowl 
 
 Blanching of 
 
 
 , with Vegetables 
 
 
 Cutlets 
 
 — -, Boiled 
 
 
 
 
 Cooked like Venison 
 
 
 and Celery Sauce 
 
 , Braised 
 
 
 
 Cutlets and Mashed Potatoes 
 
 
 Onions 
 
 , , with Truffles 
 
 
 and PurSe of Potatoes 
 
 
 Tomato Sauce 
 
 . Breast of 
 
 
 
 (au Champignon) 
 
 
 , Broiled 
 
 
 (a la Chipolata) 
 
 
 (au Naturel) 
 
 
 — -, Fried 
 
 , 
 
 (aia Marengo) 
 
 
 . Braised 
 
 
 , Marinaded 
 
 , ■ , 
 
 Boiled 
 
 
 , with Cucumber 
 
 
 , Savoury 
 
 
 Broiled 
 
 
 , Tomato PurSe 
 
 
 , with Sauce Bobert 
 
 
 Collared 
 
 
 Fillet of, Braised 
 
 
 Fresh, Stewed 
 
 
 Boasted . 
 
 
 , with Tomatoes 
 
 
 Grlskin of 
 
 
 , to Carve 
 
 
 Haunch of. Boast 
 
 
 (South European 
 
 
 Boiled 
 
 
 Leg of, Boiled 
 
 
 mode) 
 
 
 and Braised 
 
 
 , Boned and 
 
 
 , Boasted 
 
 
 Stewed In White 
 
 
 Stuffed 
 
 
 Leg of. Boiled 
 
 
 Sauce 
 
 
 . Braised 
 
 
 , Fresh, Boasted 
 
 
 Plainly 
 
 
 , to Boast 
 
 
 , Boasted 
 
 
 . with Green 
 
 
 , with Forcemeat 
 
 
 , • , to Carve 
 
 
 Peas 
 
 
 Garlic 
 
 
 , Stuffed and 
 
 
 , with Oysters 
 
 
 , Potatoes 
 
 
 Boasted 
 
 
 Stuffed and 
 
 
 Loin of, Cooked like 
 
 
 Loin of (a la Franpaise) 
 , Baked (German 
 
 
 Boasted 
 
 Stewed 
 
 
 Venison 
 
 , 
 
 
 
 
 , Boasted 
 
 
 , method) 
 
 , 
 
 with Spring 
 
 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 . 
 
 , Marinaded 
 
 
 Vegetables 
 
H46 
 
 CASSELL'S NEW DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. 
 
 Veal, Brisket of, and Elce 
 
 , , Stewed, with 
 
 Onions 
 
 , Calf's Head, Boiled 
 
 , , Plain 
 
 , Choosing of 
 
 Chop, Stewed, with Carrots 
 
 Chops, Broiled in Paper 
 
 — — , Chump of. Stewed 
 
 , Cold (a la Bourgeoise) 
 
 , Cushion of. Braised 
 
 , — - , , Superior 
 
 Cutlets 
 
 — — (a la Dauphine) 
 
 , Bread-crumbed and 
 
 Broiled 
 
 , Broiled (a I'ltallenne) 
 
 , , Plain 
 
 , Fried 
 
 , (4 la Malntenon) 
 
 — — , Larded 
 
 , , and Served Cold 
 
 — — , Russian mode of cook- 
 ing 
 
 , with Maltre d'Hotel 
 
 Butter 
 
 Cutlets, with Sorrel 
 ■ , without Bone 
 
 Fillet of 
 
 • ■ , Boiled 
 
 • , Braised 
 
 , French way 
 
 • , Roasted 
 
 . with Oysters or 
 
 Mushrooms 
 Knuckle of. Boiled 
 • . Carving 
 
 Loin of 
 
 (a la Crfeme) 
 (au Bechamel) 
 Boiled 
 Braised 
 Chump 
 
 Roasted 
 Kidney 
 
 Roasted 
 Roast 
 Steamed 
 Stewed, Plain 
 
 , Superior 
 
 Stuffed and 
 
 Braised 
 
 End, 
 
 End, 
 
 Veal, Loin of. Stuffed and Boasted 
 Neck of 
 
 (a la Crfeme) 
 
 , Braised 
 
 — , (a la Bar- 
 
 barle) 
 — - , Larded 
 
 , Roast 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 Roast 
 
 (a la Languedoclenne) 
 
 Shoulder of 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 , Boned 
 
 , Braised 
 
 , Stuffed and 
 
 Roasted 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 to Keep 
 
 Wholesomeness of 
 with Cucumbers 
 
 Venison, Mock, or Mutton Dressed 
 to Taste like Venison, 
 Stewed 
 
 Welsh Beef 
 
 Wild Boar 
 
 OMELETS, EGGS, AND CHEESE DISHES. 
 
 Almond Omelet 
 Anchovy Eggs 
 
 Omelet 
 
 Asparagus Omelet 
 Bacon Omelet 
 Bath Cream Cheese 
 Bread Omelet 
 
 Cheese and Macaroni Balls 
 
 , Bath Cream 
 
 — . Blue Mould, to Produce 
 , Cream 
 
 Omelet 
 
 , Potted 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 . Stilton 
 
 , to Keep 
 
 . Toasted 
 
 , with Eggs 
 
 , Macaroni 
 
 Cornflour Omelet 
 Crab Omelet 
 Egg Balls 
 
 Toast 
 
 Eggs (a la Bonne Femme) 
 
 (a la Carmelite) 
 
 (a la Crfeme) 
 
 (a la Duohesse) 
 
 (a la Foie Gras) 
 
 (a la Fran(aise) 
 
 (a la Gruyere) 
 
 (a i'ltallenne) 
 
 (a la Maltre d'H6tel) 
 
 (i la Suisse) 
 
 (a la Tripe) 
 
 and Anchovies 
 
 Asparagus 
 
 Bread 
 
 and Bread Sauce 
 
 ■ Burnt Butter 
 
 • Celery 
 
 ■ Cheese 
 
 ■ Cucumber 
 
 Gravy, with Stewed 
 
 Fowl 
 
 Milk 
 
 Mushrooms 
 
 ■ Onions 
 
 Parmesan (& la 
 
 Lorraine^ 
 
 Potatoes 
 
 ■ Sauce 
 
 Robert 
 
 Spinach 
 
 Tomatoes 
 
 White Sauce 
 
 (au Gratin) 
 
 (au Mirolr) 
 , Baked 
 , Beating 
 , Boiled 
 
 , Hard 
 
 , Buttered 
 
 , , and Shrimps 
 
 , Mushrooms 
 
 , Carmelite 
 
 , Cooked without Boiling 
 
 , Croustade of 
 
 , Curried 
 
 , Devilled 
 
 , Dished 
 
 (en Marinade) 
 
 for Supper 
 , Frascati 
 , Fricasseed 
 
 Eggs, Fricasseed, White 
 
 , Fried 
 
 . Frothed 
 
 , Genoa 
 
 in a Nest 
 
 in Paper Cases 
 
 , Jumbled 
 
 on Crumpets 
 
 Plover's 
 Poached 
 
 in Gravy 
 
 , with Cream 
 
 , Madeira Saucs 
 
 Potted 
 Preserved 
 Ragout of ' 
 Savoury 
 
 , and Cheese 
 
 Scalloped 
 
 Scotch 
 
 Scrambled 
 
 , with Ham 
 
 Steamed 
 Stuffed 
 Sunshiny 
 Turkey's, to Dress 
 Whisked 
 
 Fish Omelet 
 Forcemeat Balls, Egg 
 Friar's Omelet 
 Fromage Cult 
 Gardener's Omelet 
 German Omelet 
 Ground Rice Omelet 
 Ham Omelet 
 Herb Omelet 
 Jam Omelet 
 
CLASSIFIED TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 XU7 
 
 Kidney Omelet 
 Lobster Omelet 
 Minced Eggs 
 Mushroom Omelet 
 Nuremberg Egg 
 Omelet 
 
 (a la Celestlne) 
 
 (aux Fines Herbes) 
 
 . .Cooking a 
 
 . Indian 
 
 , Onion 
 
 . Plain 
 
 , Potatoes 
 
 , Savoury 
 
 , Sweet 
 
 , with Cheese 
 
 , , Baljed 
 
 Omelet, with Gravy 
 
 , Wine 
 
 Ox Byes 
 
 Oysters, Omelet of 
 
 Parmesan Cheese, British 
 
 Pufls 
 
 Plover's Effsa 
 
 , Boueli^es of 
 
 , in Cases 
 
 Potato Cheese 
 
 (Saxon recipe) 
 
 Omelet 
 
 Preserved Fruit, Omelet of 
 Preserve or Jam Omelet 
 PuHed Eggs 
 
 Rabbit (Eare-bit) Scotch 
 
 Eabbit (Eare-bit) 
 Rare-bit, Welsh 
 Easpberry Omelet 
 Eice Omelet 
 Eoquefort Cheese 
 Rum Omelet 
 Sage Cheese 
 Salad, Stuffed Eggs for 
 Salmon Omelet 
 Spanish Omelet 
 Spinach Omelet 
 Suffolk Bang Cheese 
 Sweet Herbs, Omelet oi 
 Tomato Omelet 
 Tripe, Eggs a la 
 Whites of Eggs, Poached 
 
 PICKLES, SPICES, STORE SAUCES, AND CONDIMENTS. 
 
 Allspice 
 
 , Essence of 
 
 , Tincture of 
 
 Anchovy Butter 
 
 Ketchup 
 
 Paste 
 
 • Powder 
 
 Apple CJhutney 
 
 Apples and Pears, Pips of 
 
 Aromatic Seasoning 
 
 Artichoke Bottoms, to Pickle 
 
 Barm 
 
 Basil 
 
 Bay -leaves 
 
 Beef Gravy, to Keep in Store 
 
 Beef, Pickle for 
 
 Beetroot, 'Pickled 
 
 Broccoli, to Pickle 
 
 Cabbage, Eed, Pickled 
 
 Capers 
 
 Capsicum, Essence of 
 
 Capsicums, Pickled 
 
 Caramel 
 
 Cauliflower, Pickled 
 
 Cayenne, Home-made 
 
 Cayenne Vinegar or Essence 
 
 Celery, Essence of 
 
 lor Flavouring 
 
 Vinegar 
 
 Chilli Vinegar 
 Chutney 
 Cider Vinegar 
 Cinnamon, Essence of 
 Cloves, Tincture of 
 Cranberries, to Pickle 
 Cucumber Mangoes 
 
 Vinegar 
 
 Cucumbers,' Pickled 
 
 to Keep for Winter Use 
 
 Curry 
 
 Powder 
 
 Eggs, Pickled 
 
 Elder Flower and Tarragon Vinegar 
 Elderberry Ketchup 
 Fennel, Pickled 
 Fish, Essence of 
 
 Fish Ketchup 
 
 , Marinade for 
 
 , Pickled 
 
 Game, Essence of 
 Garlic 
 
 Paste 
 
 Pickle 
 
 Vinegar 
 
 German Mustard 
 
 Yeast 
 
 Gherkins, Pickled 
 Ginger 
 
 , Essence of 
 
 Gooseberry Vinegar 
 Gravy, Essence of Ham for 
 
 , Seasoning for 
 
 , to Keep 
 
 Green Mint Vinegar 
 Ham, Flavouring a 
 
 , Pickle for 
 
 Hamburg Pickle 
 Haricots, Green, to Preserve 
 Harvey's, or Camp Vinegar 
 Hashes, Sauce for 
 Hawthorn Liquor 
 Herb Sauce 
 
 Herbs, Aromatic, Powdered, for 
 Seasoning 
 
 , Bunch of Sweet 
 
 , Chopping 
 
 , Drying and Storing for 
 
 Winter Use 
 
 , Essence of, for Seasoning 
 
 . Fried 
 
 , Powder of 
 
 ,_ Vinegar of 
 
 , Wines of 
 
 Honey, Vinegar made from 
 Horse-radish, Pickling 
 
 Powder 
 
 Vinegar 
 
 Hot Pickle 
 
 Spice, for Flavouring! 
 
 Sauces, Gravies, etc. 
 Indian Chutney 
 
 Curry Powder 
 
 Indian Devil Mixture ' 
 
 Mustard 
 
 Pickle 
 
 Irish Walnut Ketchup 
 
 Ketchup 
 
 Kitchen Mixed Spice, for White 
 
 Sauce 
 Kitchener's Salad Mixture 
 
 ■ Store Sauce, Superlative 
 
 Lemon Brandy, for Flavouring Cus- 
 tards, etc. 
 
 , Essence of 
 
 . ^ — , Artificial 
 
 Juice, Artificial, for Fish, 
 
 Sauces, etc. 
 , to Preserve 
 
 , Purify 
 
 Ketchup 
 
 ■ (quick way) 
 
 Peel, Tincture of 
 
 , to Keep for Use 
 
 , Pickled 
 
 , Tincture of, for Flavouring 
 
 Lobster Salad Dressing 
 
 Mace 
 
 Mango Chutney 
 
 Mangoes, Pickled 
 
 Marinade 
 
 for Fish 
 
 Economical 
 
 Marjoram 
 Marsh-Marigold 
 Melon Mangoes 
 
 - — , Pickled 
 Mirepolx 
 Morels 
 Mushroom Ketchup 
 
 , Common 
 
 Mushrooms, Pickled 
 
 , in Brine 
 
 , Powdered 
 
 Mussels, Ketchup of 
 
 , Pickled 
 
 Mustard 
 
 , Mixing of 
 
 Nasturtium Pickle 
 
1148 
 
 cassell's new dictionary of cookery. 
 
 for 
 
 to 
 
 Nasturtium Seeds 
 
 Vinegar 
 
 Nectarines, Pickled 
 Nutmeg 
 
 . Tincture ol 
 
 Oil 
 
 Olive on 
 
 Olives, Preserving of 
 Onions, Burnt, for Soups and 
 Gravies 
 , Coloured, for Soup Flavour- 
 ing 
 
 , for Seasoning Sauces and 
 
 Made Dishes 
 
 , Pickled 
 
 . (easy method) 
 
 , , with Cucumbers 
 
 Sliced and Fried, 
 
 Flavouring 
 , Spanish, and Beetroot, 
 
 Pickle 
 
 , , Pickled 
 
 Orange Peel 
 
 , for Flavouring 
 
 - — , Syrup of, for Flavour- 
 ing 
 Orange-flowers 
 Oranges, Pickled 
 Orgeat, Syrup of, for Flavouring 
 
 Sauces, etc. 
 Oysters, Ketchup of 
 
 , Pickled 
 
 , Powder of 
 
 Paradise, Grains of, or Cardamom- 
 seeds 
 Parsley 
 
 Juice, for Colouring Sauces 
 
 , to Preserve, for Winter Use 
 
 Pastry Powder, or Baking Powder 
 
 Peaches, Pickled 
 
 Pears, Essence of Jargonelle 
 
 ^ Pickled 
 
 Peas Soup, to Flavour 
 Peel, Orange and Lemon 
 Peels of Fruits, to Preserve 
 Pepper 
 
 — -, Black 
 
 - — , Cayenne 
 
 , Gherkins 
 
 , Long 
 
 , Nepaul 
 
 , Vinegar 
 
 , Water 
 
 , White 
 
 Peppers, to Pickle quickly 
 
 Piccalilli 
 
 Pickle 
 
 for Beef, Pork, and Tongues 
 
 Fish 
 
 Meat 
 
 Tongues 
 
 that will Keep Two Years or 
 
 more 
 Pickles 
 
 , best time for Making 
 
 , Mixed 
 
 , Summer, for Present Use 
 
 , Sweet American 
 
 , to Green 
 
 Pimento, Allspice, or Jamaica 
 
 Pepper 
 Pink Sauce, for Meat or Fish 
 Piquant Sauce, for Storing 
 Plum Buds, to Pickle 
 Plums In Vinegar 
 
 , Pickled like Olives 
 
 Pork, Pickle for 
 Potato Yeast 
 Pot Herbs 
 
 Top Liquor 
 
 Poulac Ketchup 
 Prince of Wales' Ketchup 
 Pyroligneous Acid 
 Quince Juice 
 
 Radish, Horse 
 
 Pods, to Pickle 
 
 , (Superior) 
 
 Ragout Powder. 
 
 Kaisin Wine Vinegar 
 Rajah's Relish 
 Bed Cabbage 
 
 Liquor, to Colour Cordials 
 
 Regent's Store Sauce 
 Bemoulade— French Salad Dressing 
 
 , Green 
 
 , Indian 
 
 Remoulade of Cucumbers 
 Rennet 
 
 , Gallino 
 
 , Liquid 
 
 , Substitute for 
 
 Rocambole 
 Roots, Esculent 
 
 , Pickled 
 
 Hose Brandy, for Flavouring Cakes 
 
 and Puddings 
 Roses, Tincture of 
 Rose-water 
 Saffron 
 
 , Preparation of 
 
 , Spurious 
 
 and Thyme 
 
 , Properties of 
 
 , Varieties of 
 
 , Wholesomeness of 
 
 Salad Dressing 
 
 for Fish Salad 
 
 (Italian) 
 
 . without Oil 
 
 Oil 
 
 Vinegar 
 
 Saleratus 
 
 Salt Butter made Fresh 
 
 , to Make 
 
 Salt, Common, Wholesomeness 
 Salt, Spiced 
 
 , to Prepare for Table 
 
 Sardine Mustard 
 
 Sauce, Store, for Cold Meat and 
 Game 
 
 . , or Fish 
 
 , , Fish, Game, 
 
 Steaks, etc. 
 Savoury Spirit, for imparting 
 
 Flavour of Herbs 
 
 Savoury Spirit, for imparting 
 
 Flavour of Spice 
 
 of 
 
 for Flavouring 
 Stews, etc. 
 
 Seasoning 
 
 , for Forcemeat and Pies 
 
 Seasonings, Every-day 
 Shallot Pickle 
 
 — — Vinegar 
 
 ■ Wine 
 
 Shallots, Pickled 
 
 Shrimps, for Flavouring Fish 
 
 Soups 
 Spanish Onions, to Fickle 
 Spearmint 
 Spice, Mixed, 
 Sauces, 
 Spices 
 
 , Wholesomeness of 
 
 Spinach, Green, for Colouring 
 
 Soups, etc. 
 Spirit of Lemon Peel 
 Store Sauces 
 Strawberry Vinegar 
 Suet, to Clarify, for Frying 
 
 , Keep for Months 
 
 Sugar Browning, for Colouring 
 Sweet Herbs 
 
 Spice, for Pastry-cooks 
 
 Tarragon Vinegar, for Salads and 
 
 Sauces 
 Tartar Mustard 
 Thyme 
 Tomato Chutney 
 
 Ketchup , 
 
 Store Sauce 
 
 , Excellent 
 
 Tomatoes, Pickled 
 Truffle 
 
 TrufQes, Bottled 
 
 Universal Store Sauces, for 
 
 Flavouring Gravies 
 Vanilla 
 
 Vegetable Essences, to Extract 
 Verjuice 
 Vienna Yeast 
 Vinegar 
 
 , AdiAteration of 
 
 . Basil 
 
 , Cider 
 
 , Colourless 
 
 , Cucumber 
 
 for Salads 
 
 , Fruit 
 
 . made with Vinegar Plant 
 
 , Malt 
 
 , Preserving of 
 
 , Seasoned for Salads 
 
 , Strengthened 
 
 , Sugar 
 
 , Wholesomeness of 
 
 , Wine, French way of 
 
 Making 
 Vinegars, Flavoured 
 Walnut Ketchup 
 
 Vinegar 
 
 Walnuts, Pickled 
 
 Water, Orange (for Flavouring) 
 White Cabbage, to Pickle 
 Windermere Ketchup 
 Wine Browning, for Flavouring or 
 Colouring Gravies 
 
 Vinegar 
 
CLASSIFIED TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 1149 
 
 Wolfram Ketchup' 
 
 Woodruff 
 
 Worcester Sauce 
 
 Yeast 
 
 , Baker's 
 
 , Brewer's 
 
 Yeast, Connecticut 
 
 , Economical 
 
 , German 
 
 , Home-made 
 
 , Klrkleatham 
 
 Yeast, Patent 
 
 , Potato 
 
 , Preserved 
 
 , Colouring 
 
 Yellow Pickle 
 
 PIES, PUDDINGS, AND PASTRY. 
 
 Acidulated Pudding 
 Adelaide Pudding 
 Agnew Pudding 
 Albemarle Pudding 
 Albert Pudding 
 Alderman's Pudding 
 Almond and Bread Pudding 
 
 Raisin Pudding 
 
 Pastry 
 
 Pudding 
 
 (Jewish) 
 
 Tartlets 
 
 Amber Pudding 
 Ambrose Pudding 
 Angel Pudding 
 Angelica Tait 
 
 Apple Batter Pudding 
 
 Cake Pudding 
 
 Creamed Tart 
 
 Custard Pudding 
 
 Dumplings 
 
 Pasty 
 
 Pie 
 
 - — Plum Pudding 
 
 Pudding 
 
 , Nottingham 
 
 Puddings (Alexandra's) 
 
 (Mother's) 
 
 Puffs 
 
 Rolls 
 
 Roly Poly 
 
 Squares 
 
 (Swiss) Pudding 
 
 ■ Tart 
 
 Apples and Almonds, Pudding of 
 Apricot Eclair 
 
 Pie 
 
 ■ Pudding 
 
 Tart, Green 
 
 Arrowroot Pudding 
 
 and Prune Tart 
 
 Asparagus Pudding 
 Aunt Alice's Pudding 
 
 Mary's Pudding 
 
 Susie's Pudding 
 
 Austrian Pudding 
 
 Pufls 
 
 Baba au Rhum 
 Bachelor's Pudding 
 Bacon Pudding, and Rolls 
 Bakewell Pudding 
 Banana and Orange Pudding 
 Baroness Pudding 
 
 Batley Pudding 
 Batter Pudding 
 Beet Patties 
 Pie, Savoury 
 
 Beef Steak and Kidney Pudding 
 
 Pie 
 
 Pudding 
 
 , to Imitate Venison 
 
 Bermuda Pudding 
 Bernese Pudding 
 Black Cap Pudding 
 
 Currant Pudding ■ 
 
 Tart 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Bread and Butter Pudding 
 
 Meat Pudding 
 
 , Broken, Pudding 
 
 , Brown, Pudding 
 
 Custard Pudding 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Bremen Cheesecakes 
 Bretonne Brandy Pudding 
 Bride Pie 
 
 Brioche 
 
 Brown Betty Pudding 
 Bun Pudding 
 Cabbage Cake 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Cabinet Pudding 
 Calf's Head Pie 
 Canadian Pudding 
 Canary Pudding 
 Cannelons 
 
 Canterbury Puddings 
 Caramel Pudding 
 Carp Pie 
 
 Carrot Cheesecakes 
 Pie » 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Celestine Pudding 
 Chancellor Pudding 
 Cheese Pastry, Eamequins of 
 
 Patties 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Ramequins 
 
 Cheltenham Pudding 
 Cherry Pie 
 Pudding 
 
 Tart 
 
 Tartlets 
 
 Chester Pudding 
 Chestnut Pudding 
 Chichester Pudding 
 Chicken and Ham Pie 
 
 Macaroni Pudding 
 
 - — ,Rice Pudding 
 
 Sweetbread Pie 
 
 Patties 
 
 Pie 
 
 Chocolate Pudding 
 
 Tarts 
 
 Choux 
 
 Christmas Plum Pudding 
 
 Citron and Almond Pudding 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Clarendon Pudding 
 Cocoa-nut Pudding 
 Cod Pie, Fresh 
 
 , Salt 
 
 Sound Pie 
 
 College Pudding 
 Conger Eel Pie 
 
 Corn Puddings, American 
 Cornflour Custard Pudding 
 Fruit Pie 
 
 ■ Pudding 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Corn-meal Pudding 
 Cottage Bread Pudding 
 
 Plum Pudding 
 
 Potato Pudding 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Cowslip Pudding 
 Cranberry Pie 
 
 Tart 
 
 Cream Pudding 
 Croquettes, Vol-au-Vent of 
 Croustades 
 
 Crullers 
 
 Crumpet and Muffin Pudding 
 Crust, Butter, for Boiled Pud- 
 dings "* 
 
 , Common, lor Raised Pies 
 
 , Dripping, for Kitchen Pies 
 
 , for Fruit Tarts 
 
 , French Tarts 
 
 . Good 
 
 , Lard 
 
 , Pate BrisSe 
 
 , Short, Common 
 
 , Suet, for Puddings 
 
 Cup Puddings 
 Curd Pudding 
 Currant and Raspberry Tart 
 
 Dumpling 
 
 Pudding. Black, Bed, or 
 
 White 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 Custard, Baked in a Crust 
 
 ■ Pudding 
 
 Tartlets 
 
 Daflodil Pudding 
 Damson Pudding 
 
 Solid 
 
 Tart 
 
 Dartmouth Pie 
 Dauphines 
 Devizes Pie 
 
1150 
 
 CASSELL'S NEW DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. 
 
 Devonian Pudding 
 Devonshire Brandy Pudding 
 
 Squab Pie 
 
 Tasty Pudding 
 
 Dresden Patties 
 Duck Pie 
 Dumpling Drops 
 Dumplings. Half-hour 
 
 , Norfolk 
 
 , Plain 
 
 , Steamed 
 
 Dutch Apple Pie 
 Eel Patties 
 
 ■ Pie 
 
 , vrith Tench 
 
 Empress Pudding 
 Exeter Pudding 
 
 Fairy Fancies 
 
 Fanchonettes 
 
 Fat or Marrow Pudding 
 
 Fieldfare Pasties 
 
 Pig Pudding 
 
 ■ Tart 
 
 Finger Pudding 
 Fish and Oyster Pie 
 
 Fricandelles 
 
 , Pate 
 
 . ■ Pie 
 
 ■ Pudding 
 
 , Plain 
 
 , Salt, Pie 
 
 , Vol-au-Vent of 
 
 Florence Pudding 
 Flour Pudding, Hasty 
 Fowl Pie, Mock 
 
 , Strasburg 
 
 French Pie 
 
 Plum Pudding 
 
 Tart 
 
 Pudding 
 
 EoU Puddiug 
 
 Timbale 
 
 Fruit Pasties or Turnovers 
 
 Pudding Paste 
 
 Puddings 
 
 Suet Pudding 
 
 Tarts, Preserved 
 
 Turnovers 
 
 • , Vol-au-Vent of 
 
 Gala Pudding 
 
 Game and Macaroni Pie 
 
 ■ Patties 
 
 , PSrigord Pie 
 
 Pie, English 
 
 Gardener's Pie 
 
 Gateau de Eiz (French Rice 
 Pudding) 
 
 de Semoule (French Semo- 
 
 lina Pudding) 
 Geneva (or George) Pudding 
 German Dumplings, or Dampf- 
 
 nudeln 
 ■ Prying Butter 
 
 Paste 
 
 Pudding, Baked 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 , , Brown Bread 
 
 , , Rice 
 
 Giblet Pie 
 
 Ginger and Bread Pudding 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Pufts 
 
 Souffle Pudding 
 
 Gingerbread Pudding 
 Gloucester Puddings 
 Godiveau Raised Pie 
 Golden Pudding 
 Goose Pie 
 
 Pudding, or Savoury 
 
 Pudding 
 Gooseberry and Eice Pudding 
 
 Dumpling 
 
 Pudding, Baked 
 
 Tart 
 
 ■ Turnovers 
 
 Green Bean Pudding 
 Greengage Pudding 
 Ground Rice Cup Puddings 
 
 ' Pudding 
 
 . Rich 
 
 Grouse Pie 
 
 , Scotch Fashion 
 
 , Roast 
 
 Guernsey Pudciing 
 Gwendoline Pudding 
 Haddock Pudding 
 Haggis, English 
 
 , Lamb's 
 
 , Scotch 
 
 Half-hour Dumplings 
 Half Pay Pudding 
 Halibut Pie 
 Ham and Chicken Patties 
 
 Egg Patties 
 
 Hampshire (or Hertfordshire) 
 
 Pudding 
 Hannah More's Pudding 
 Hare Pasty (a German recipe) 
 
 Pat# (en Terrine) 
 
 Pie 
 
 — — , Raised 
 
 Harrogate (or Warwickshire) 
 
 Pudding 
 Hasty Pudding 
 
 — ^ , Baked 
 
 , or Farmer's Rice 
 
 Puffs 
 
 Hedgehog Pudding 
 
 Henriette (or Helena) Pudding 
 
 Herb Pudding or Pie 
 
 Her Majesty's Pudding 
 Herrings, Pie of 
 Hide and Seek Pudding 
 Hog, or Black Puddings 
 Hot Pot Pie 
 Hunter's Pie 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Husband's Pie 
 Indian Meal Pudding 
 
 Pudding 
 
 , Baked 
 
 Ingoldsby Christmas Pudding 
 Irish Black Pudding 
 
 Puffs 
 
 Italian Pastes 
 
 ■ Pies 
 
 Pudding 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 Jam Patties 
 
 Puffs or Turnovers 
 
 • Pudding 
 
 Roly Poly Pudding 
 
 Tart, Open 
 
 - — ■ Tarts 
 
 Jejune Pudding 
 Jelly Pudding 
 Jersey Pudding 
 Jubilee Pudding 
 Judy's Pudding 
 Junior United Pudding 
 Kentish Suet Pudding 
 Kidney and Liver Pudding 
 
 Pie 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Kringles 
 
 Lady Abbess' Pudding 
 Ladywell Pudding 
 Lamartine's Pudding 
 Lamb and Currant Pie 
 
 Patties 
 
 Pie 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Lamprey Pie 
 Lancashire Raised Pie 
 Landrake Pudding 
 Lard and Butter Pastry 
 
 Pastry 
 
 Lark Pastry and Pie 
 Larks in Batter Pudding 
 Leamington Pudding 
 
 Tart 
 
 Leek and Pilchard Pie 
 Leeks, Flammish 
 Leicester Pie and Pudding 
 Leicestershire Medley Pie 
 Lemon Bread Pudding, Baked 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 Curd Pudding 
 
 Dumplings 
 
 Patties 
 
 ' Pudding, Baked or Boiled 
 
 Eoly Poly Pudding 
 
 Snow Pudding 
 
 Turnovers 
 
 Lentil Pudding 
 Lime Pudding 
 Ling Pie 
 
 Little Ladles' Tart 
 Liver Puddings 
 Lobster and Oyster Pie 
 
 Patties 
 
 Pie 
 
 , Elssoles of 
 
 , Vols-au-Vent of. Small 
 
 Macaroni, Pat6 of 
 
 Pie 
 
 Pudding 
 
 . Parisian 
 
 , Plain 
 
 , with Almonds 
 
 Macaroon Pudding 
 Mackerel Pie 
 
 , Potted 
 
 Madeira Pudding 
 Madonna Pudding 
 Malvern Apple Pudding 
 
 Pudding 
 
CLASSIFIED TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 1151 
 
 Manchester Pudding 
 Mandarin Pudding 
 Mansfield Pudding 
 Marchioness Pudding 
 Marlborough Pudding 
 Marmalade, Orange, Pudding 
 Marrow Dumplings 
 
 , for Soup 
 
 Patties 
 
 Pudding 
 
 , Boiled or Baked 
 
 Meal Pudding, American 
 
 Puddings, in Skins 
 
 Meat Patties 
 
 Pie (k la Don Pedro) 
 
 Roll Puddings 
 
 Meringue Pudding 
 Middleton Pudding 
 Military Puddings 
 Millet Pudding 
 Mince Pies 
 
 Mixed Fruit Pudding 
 Monitor's Tart 
 Monmoutli Pudding 
 Montagu Pudding 
 Moor Game Pie 
 Morella Pudding 
 Mother Eve's Pudding 
 Muffins, Puddiner ot 
 Mulberry Pie 
 Mushrooni Pie 
 Mutton Patties and Pie 
 Neapolitan Custard Pudding 
 Nectarine Pudding 
 Nesselrode Pudding 
 Neufchatel Pudding 
 New College Puddings 
 Newcastle Pudding 
 Newmarket Pudding 
 Nonesuch Pudding 
 Norfolk Dumplings 
 Norwegian Puddings 
 Nottingham Pudding 
 Nouilles Pudding 
 , Rolled 
 
 Turnovers 
 
 Oatmeal Hasty Pudding 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Olive Pie. Beef 
 
 , Veal 
 
 ■ Pudding 
 
 Orange and Banana Pudding 
 
 Batter Pudding 
 
 Marmalade Pudding 
 
 , Baked 
 
 Pudding 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 , Seville, Paste, for Dessert 
 
 Snowballs 
 
 Tart or Tartlets 
 
 Orleans Pudding 
 
 Oxford Dumplings or Puddings 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Oysters, Patties of 
 
 , , with Mushrooms 
 
 , Pie of 
 
 , Vol-au-Vent of 
 
 Palestine Pudding 
 Paradise Pudding 
 
 Paris Pudding 
 Parliament Pudding 
 Parsley Pie 
 Parsnip Pudding 
 Parson's Pudding 
 Partridges, Pie of 
 
 , , Hunter's 
 
 , Pudding of 
 
 Paste, Biscuit 
 
 , Brioche 
 
 for Common Pies 
 
 Meat or Fruit Pies 
 
 — - Savoury Pies 
 
 Baised Pies 
 
 , French, for Meat Pies, Hot 
 
 or Cold 
 
 , PufE (easy method) 
 
 , , or Feuilletage 
 
 , Rich Cream, for Tarts 
 
 , Scraps of. How to Use 
 
 , Short, for Tarts and Fruit 
 
 Pies 
 
 , Suet, for Boiled Puddings 
 
 , Transparent, for Tarts, 
 
 etc. 
 Pastry 
 
 , Almond 
 
 , Glazing of 
 
 , Good Plain 
 
 , Iced 
 
 Pasty of Fresh or Preserved Fruit 
 Pate de Gibier, or Game Pate, 
 
 Superlative 
 
 of Fish 
 
 Macaroni 
 
 Patties, Fried 
 
 , Bread 
 
 , Monks' 
 
 , Preparation of 
 
 Peach Pie 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Peaches, Flanc of 
 
 , Vol-au-Vent of 
 
 Pear Tart 
 
 Peas Pudding ' 
 
 , Superlative, 
 
 Peasant's Pudding 
 Peninsula Pudding 
 Perigord Pie 
 Pheasant Pie 
 
 Pie, Christmas 
 Pies, Meat, Jelly for 
 
 , , , Economical 
 
 Pigeon Pie (a I'Anglaise) 
 
 , Raised 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Pigeons, PStg Chaud of 
 
 , Piquant 
 
 , Vol-au-Vent of 
 
 Pilchard and Leek Pie 
 Pineapple Pudding 
 
 , Cold, or Pain D' Ananas 
 
 . Rich 
 
 Pinner Tart 
 Pippin Tarts 
 Pistachio Pudding 
 Plaits of Pastry 
 Plovers, Pie of 
 
 , Roasted 
 
 Plovers, Stewed 
 Plum Pudding, Baked 
 
 , , without Suet 
 
 , Economical 
 
 , Excellent 
 
 , Family 
 
 , Hedgehog 
 
 . , Plain 
 
 , with Apples 
 
 , without Eggs 
 
 , Suet 
 
 Tart 
 
 Plum. Vol-au-Vent 
 Podovies, or Beef Patties 
 Polenta Pudding, Sweet 
 
 (to be Eaten with 
 
 Meat) 
 Polish Pudding 
 Pomfret Puddings 
 Pompadour Pudding, Rich 
 Poor Curate's Pudding 
 - — • Epicure's Pudding 
 
 Knight's Pudding 
 
 Porcupine Pudding 
 Pork and Apple Pie 
 
 Black Puddings 
 
 , with Onions 
 
 Pies 
 
 ■ , Pastry for 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Portland Pudding 
 Portuguese Apple Pie 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Pot Pie, Chicken 
 
 Potato and Almond Pudding 
 -, Cottage, Pudding 
 
 Dumpling 
 
 Flour Pudding, Baked 
 
 , Steamed 
 
 Gipsy Pie 
 
 Pasty, Modern 
 
 Patties 
 
 Pie 
 
 , "Ten to One" 
 
 , with Sausage-meat 
 
 Pudding 
 
 , Baked 
 
 , Cottage 
 
 , with Ham, etc. 
 
 Puddings (Count Rumford's 
 
 recipes) 
 
 Pufis 
 
 Poulade, Raised Pie 
 
 Poultry, Boudins, or French 
 
 Puddings, of 
 Prawn Patties 
 
 - — Pie 
 Prince Consort's Pudding 
 
 Frederick's Pudding 
 
 Princes' Pudding 
 
 Prune, Arrowroot and. Tart 
 ■ Pudding 
 
 Eoly Poly Pudding 
 
 Prussian Dumplings 
 Pudding-Pies 
 Puddings, in Haste 
 Pufl-paste, French 
 
 , Household 
 
1152 
 
 cassell's new dictionary of cookeet. 
 
 Puflpaste Patties, or small Vol-au- 
 
 Vents 
 Pufl Puddings 
 Puffs of Larks , 
 Puits d'Amour 
 Pumpkin Pie 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Puritan's Pudding 
 Quaking Pudding 
 
 Queen Adelaide's Pudding 
 
 Mab's Pudding 
 
 Queen's Pudding 
 Quince Pie 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Tart 
 
 Rabbit Pat6 
 
 (a la Provenjale) 
 
 Patties 
 
 Pie 
 
 , Plain 
 
 " , Kalsed 
 
 , Superior 
 
 Pudding 
 
 . Pupton ol 
 
 , Turban of 
 
 Radical Pudding 
 Raised Pies 
 
 , of Game or Poultry 
 
 , to Form 
 
 Raisin Pudding, Baked 
 
 . Boiled 
 
 , Economical 
 
 Ramakin or Cheese Pudding 
 Raspberry and Cream Tart 
 
 Cream Pudding 
 
 Pudding 
 
 , Baked 
 
 , Rich 
 
 ■ Tart 
 
 Katafla Pudding, Baked or Boiled 
 
 Puddings 
 
 Recruits' Puddings 
 
 Red Currant and Raspberry Pud- 
 ding and Tart 
 
 Rice Pudding 
 
 Bedda Pudding 
 Regent's Pudding 
 Reindeer Pudding 
 Rhubarb and Bread Pudding 
 
 Pie 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Tart 
 
 Turnovers 
 
 Vol-au-Veut 
 
 Rice and Apple Pudding 
 
 Apricot Pudding 
 
 OoDoa-nut Pudding 
 
 Macaroon Pudding 
 
 Tapioca Pudding 
 
 , Ground, Custard Pudding 
 
 . , Pudding 
 
 Meridon 
 
 Paste for Savoury Dishes 
 
 • Tartlets, etc. 
 
 Pie 
 
 Pudding 
 
 . Baked 
 
 , , Baron Brisse'a 
 
 , :, Plain 
 
 Rice Pudding, Baked, Small 
 
 , Boiled, Cheap 
 
 , , Superior 
 
 , Dutch 
 
 (French method) 
 
 , Ground 
 
 , Rich 
 
 , with Jam 
 
 Puddings, Savoury 
 
 Snowballs 
 
 Tart 
 
 Richmond Eel Pie 
 
 Puddings 
 
 Rings of Pastry, Ornamental 
 Rissoles, Sweet 
 Roly Poly Pudding 
 Hook Pie 
 
 Roseneath Puddings 
 Rotterdam Pudding, Rich 
 Royal Children's Puddings 
 
 Cream Pie 
 
 Pastry 
 
 Rum Pudding 
 
 Rumford's Plain Indian Pudding 
 Rump Steak Pudding 
 Rusk Pudding 
 Russian Rice Pudding 
 Saffron Pudding 
 
 Sage and Onion Pudding and Pie 
 Sago and Apple Ptidding 
 ■ Pudding 
 
 , Baked 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 , Red 
 
 Salmon and Potato Pie 
 
 Pie 
 
 . Cold, with Truffles 
 
 ■ , Hot 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Raised Pie 
 
 Salt Fish Pie 
 Saratoga Pudding 
 Sausage Dumpling 
 
 Pie 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Save-all Pudding 
 Savoury Batter Pudding 
 
 Dumplings 
 
 • Pie 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Savoy Pudding 
 Saxon Pudding 
 Sea Pie 
 
 Semolina Cup Puddings 
 
 Pudding 
 
 , Baked 
 
 ■ , Steamed 
 
 Sheep's Head Pie 
 
 , Tongue, and Trot- 
 
 ters, Puddings of 
 
 Trotters, Pat« of 
 
 Shepherd's Pie 
 
 Short Crust, instead of Puff-paste 
 Shrewsbury Pudding 
 Shrimp Patties 
 
 Pie 
 
 ■ Pudding 
 
 Shropshire Pudding 
 Snipe Pie 
 
 Snipe, Pudding of 
 
 , , Superior 
 
 , Raised Pie, Hot 
 
 Snowballs, Rice 
 
 Snowdon Pudding 
 
 Sole, Fillets of, Vol-au-Vent of 
 
 Pie 
 
 Souse Pudding 
 Spanish Pudding 
 Speaker's Pudding 
 Spinach Pudding 
 Sponge Pudding 
 
 Rusks 
 
 Savoy 
 
 Spongecake Pudding 
 Squab Pie 
 
 Star Gazy Pie 
 
 Strawberry and Custard Pudding 
 
 Cornflour Pudding 
 
 Suet Dumpling, Excellent 
 
 , Plain 
 
 , Sweet 
 
 Pastry, Common 
 
 , Rich 
 
 Pudding 
 
 (Dr. Kitchener's recipey 
 
 , Plain 
 
 , , served with 
 
 Sugar and Lemon 
 
 Juice 
 Suffolk Dumplings 
 Sugar, for Puddings 
 
 Paste, for Tarts, etc. 
 
 Roly Poly 
 
 Summer Pudding 
 Sunday Pudding 
 Sussex Pudding 
 Sweetbread Patties 
 Sweetbreads and Palates, Pie ol 
 
 , Patties of 
 
 , Pie of 
 
 Vol-au-Vent of 
 
 Swiss Cocoa-nut Puddings 
 
 Pudding, Plain 
 
 Syrup Cup Puddings 
 Tadcaster Puddings 
 Tamor Pudding 
 Tansy Pudding 
 
 Tapioca and Apple^Pudding 
 
 Pudding, Baked or Boiled 
 
 , French 
 
 . , Simple 
 
 Tart, Fruit 
 , My Lady's 
 
 with Sugar Icing 
 
 Tarts, Icing for 
 
 , Paste for 
 
 Teal Pudding 
 
 Tench Pie 
 
 Timbale, lor Macaroni, etc. 
 
 of Macaroni 
 
 , Veal and Ham 
 
 Tlmbales 
 
 of Rice, with Fruit 
 
 , Small (for Entries) 
 
 , (for Fruit, etc.) 
 
 Tiverton Pudding 
 
 Tomato Dumplings or Puddings 
 
 Town Pudding 
 
CLASSIFIED TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 1153 
 
 Transparent Pie Crust 
 
 --- Pudding 
 Treacle Pudding 
 
 Eoly Poly 
 
 Tarts 
 
 Trinity College Pudding 
 
 Tripe Pie 
 
 Truffles, Timbale of 
 
 Tunbrldge Puddings 
 
 Turbot, Patties or Vol-au- Vents of 
 
 Pie 
 
 , Tlmbales of (a la V6nl- 
 
 tlenne) 
 Turkey Patties 
 Turnovers 
 
 United States Pudding 
 Upton Pudding 
 
 Uxbrldge Plum Pudding, Excellent 
 Vanilla Custard Pudding 
 Veal and Ham Patties 
 
 Pie 
 
 Macaroni Pudding 
 
 , Bride's Pie of 
 
 , Calfs Head Pie 
 
 , Liver Pat6 
 
 , Neapolitan Turnovers of 
 
 Olive Pie 
 
 , Superior 
 
 Patties 
 
 , Fried 
 
 Pie 
 
 Good 
 
 Parsley 
 
 Plain 
 
 Baised 
 
 Solid 
 
 Superlative 
 
 with Oysters 
 
 Veal Pie, with Pork 
 
 , Potatoes 
 
 , Sausage 
 
 , Sweetbread 
 
 Pies, Raised, Small 
 
 Pot Pie 
 
 Pudding 
 
 , Baked 
 
 , Vol-au-Vent of 
 
 Vegetable Patties 
 
 Pie 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Venetian Pudding 
 Venison and Hare Pie 
 
 Pasty 
 
 , Pastry for 
 
 , to Keep for some time 
 
 Pie 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Vermicelli Pudding 
 
 , Baked, Plain 
 
 — , Boiled 
 
 , Rich 
 
 , with Apples 
 
 Vice-chancellor's Pudding 
 Victoria Pudding 
 
 — — , Superior 
 
 Virginia Pudding I 
 
 Vol-au-Vent 
 
 ■ (a la Finanoifere) 
 
 (a la Normande) 
 
 of Lambs' Tails 
 
 , Small 
 
 , with Cream 
 
 Vol-au-Vents, Green Gooseberry 
 
 , Orange 
 
 , Sweet (a la Parlslenne) 
 
 , to Fill 
 
 Wafer Puddings 
 
 Welsh. Pudding, Uodern, or 
 Quaker's Pudding 
 
 , Very Rich 
 
 West Country Pudding 
 
 Indian Pudding 
 
 Elding Pudding 
 
 Wheat, with Fruit, or Durham 
 
 Pudding 
 White Puddings 
 
 , Sweet 
 
 T/hiting, Hot Pie of Fillets of 
 (Careme's recipe) 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Wholesome Pudding 
 Wilbertorce Pudding 
 Wiltshire Pudding 
 
 Windsor Pies, of Meat, Poultry, or 
 Game 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Veal Pie 
 
 Woodcock Pie 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Raised Pie, Cold 
 
 , Hot 
 
 Wyvern Puddings 
 Tale Boat Pie 
 
 Yam Pudding 
 Teast Dumpling 
 Yorkshire Black Puddings 
 
 Pie. 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Yule Dumplings 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Zandrina Pudding 
 Zebra Pudding 
 Zweibach 
 
 Blackcock, Roasted 
 
 , Salmi of 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 Canvas-back Ducks, Roasted 
 Capercailzie, Roast 
 
 — -, Hashed 
 Capon (a la Casserole) 
 Boiled 
 Roast 
 Stewed 
 Stuffed and Boiled 
 
 Roasted 
 
 with Chestnuts 
 
 to Truss 
 
 Chicken (ft la Chasseur) 
 
 (ft la Cireci) 
 
 (ft I'Estragon) 
 
 (4 la Marengo) 
 
 (ft la St. M^nShould) 
 
 and Macaroni 
 
 Tongue, with Cauli- 
 
 flowers 
 
 (aux Fines" Herbes) 
 
 , Baked, in Rice 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 3 V 
 
 POULTRY AND GAME. 
 
 Chicken, Broiled 
 
 , Curried 
 
 , Devilled 
 
 (en Casserole) 
 
 (en Matelote) 
 
 , Fricasseed 
 
 in Peas 
 
 Pilau 
 
 , Roast 
 
 Curry, Calcutta 
 , Malay 
 
 Pimento 
 
 Cygnet, to Roast 
 Duck (a la Bearnolse) 
 
 (ft la Fran^alse) 
 
 (ft I'ltalienne). 
 
 (ft la Mode) 
 
 (ft la Portugal se) 
 
 . Boiled 
 
 , Braised, with Green Peas 
 
 , , Turnips 
 
 , Devilled (ft la Fran^alse) 
 
 , Hashed 
 
 , Roast 
 
 , Salmi of 
 
 Dnck, Stewed, with Green Peas 
 
 ' , Stuffed 
 
 . Wild, Hashed 
 
 , , Ragotit of 
 
 « — , , Boast 
 
 , . with Port Wine 
 
 , with Olives 
 
 Duckling, Braised (a la Bonrgoyne) 
 Ducklings, Roasted 
 Fawn, Hashed 
 
 , Roasted 
 
 Fieldfares, Roasted 
 Fowl (ft la Bechamel) 
 
 (ft la Carlsford) 
 
 (ft la Fran^aise) 
 
 (ft la Hollandaise) 
 
 (ft ,1a Marengo) 
 
 (ft la Mayonnaise) 
 
 (ft la Milanese) 
 
 (a la Remoulade) 
 
 (ft la Tartare) 
 
 , Blanquette of 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 , ,_ with Rice 
 
 , Boned and Stuffed 
 
1154 
 
 CASSELL'S NEW DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. 
 
 Fowl, Braised 
 , ;■ with Beet and Chest- 
 nuts' 
 
 , TomatGes" 
 
 Broiled 
 
 , with Hushroom Sauce 
 
 Country Captarh 
 Croquettes of 
 Curried 
 
 (& I'Indlenne) 
 
 Cutlets 
 
 (en CaSserole) 
 
 Fillets (au Supreme) 
 
 Fricasseed - - 
 
 Fried 
 
 (a la Malabar) 
 
 Gelatine 01 
 
 Grillade of 
 
 Guinea, to Roast 
 
 Hashed ' • • 
 
 Indian Dish of 
 
 Marinaded 
 
 Matelote oJ 
 
 Mayonnaise ol 
 
 Minced 
 
 Pliau 
 
 Ragout ol 
 
 Roast 
 
 Salmi of ' 
 
 to Boil 
 
 Bone without opening 
 
 it 
 
 Dress 
 
 Hash 
 
 Roast (German • 
 
 method) 
 
 -. — Stew ' ■ - 
 
 Truss (Boiled) 
 
 (Roast) 
 
 with Macaroni 
 
 Onions 
 
 — - Oysters 
 
 Peas 
 
 Rice 
 
 ^— — '— — Croquettes 
 
 Fricassee, Chaudfroid- 
 Galantine of Plgfeons • 
 
 Game, BlaclL (& la Royale) " ■ 
 
 , Salmi of . — ■ 
 
 . to -Keep from Talntine— 
 
 , Eemdve Taftit from 
 
 Gateau' of Hare ' " ,' 
 
 Giblets, to Stew 
 
 , with Apples 
 
 Goose (a I'Arleslenne) 
 
 (a la Daiibe) 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 , Bonne Bouche lor • - 
 
 , Braised (S. la Jardinitre) 
 
 . Cold, to Hash 
 
 , Green, Dressing a 
 
 , Grilled 
 
 . How to Clhoose • ' 
 
 in Jelly, or- Duck in Jelly 
 
 , Marinaded 
 
 , Koast 
 
 . , to Carve 
 
 ■ , Stewed 
 
 . trfBoil 
 
 Goose, to Braise: 
 
 , Truss for Roasting 
 
 Grouse (a I'Ecossaise) 
 
 <& la Flhtinclfcre) 
 
 , Carving of > 
 
 , Cutlets 
 
 , or Woodcock; Marinaded" 
 
 , Salmi of * . 
 
 Guinea Fowl, Boiled, with Oysters 
 
 , to Roast 
 
 Hare, Baked 
 
 , Baron of 
 
 , Boned 
 
 , Braised ' ■ 
 
 , Broiled 
 
 . Choosing a 
 
 ' , Civet ol - - 
 
 Cutlets 
 
 (en Daube) - - 
 
 , Gateau of 
 
 ; , Haricot of 
 
 , Jugged : 
 
 , , (Yorkshire method) 
 
 , Larded 
 
 Pejpper 
 
 , Quenelles of 
 
 Bagoilt 
 
 , Boast 
 
 . , to Carve ' 
 
 Scallops (French) 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 , , to Truss a 
 
 JKuwab Fowl 
 
 Landrail, , or. Corncrake, to Boast 
 
 !LarkB'(a la MaeSdoine) 
 
 ■ , Broiled 
 
 ' ,■ Croiistade of • ' ' 
 
 , in Aspic; in Cases 
 
 , Potted 
 
 , Boast, and Stewed 
 
 Leveret, Braised 
 
 -^-7, Civet of _^ ^ 
 
 r^-—-, ■ -Roast.. : . '■ --. 
 
 Moor Game, Broiled 
 
 j , Boasted 
 
 ] , Stewed 
 
 Ortolans on Toast 
 
 BaBollt of 
 
 Boasted 
 
 Stewed, with Truffles 
 ] Partridges • ' 
 
 Baked (a I'ltalienne) 
 
 Braised (a la Bearnaise) 
 
 (a la Reine) 
 
 , with Cabbage 
 
 , Celery Sauce " 
 
 , Mushrooms 
 
 , Truffles " 
 
 Broiled 
 
 Choosing ■" 
 
 Red Legged 
 
 Roast' 
 
 Roast (German recipe) 
 
 ~^—, to Carve 
 
 Salmi of. Cold 
 
 Slewed 
 
 , with Cabbage 
 
 Stuffed, with Mushrooms ' 
 ' Peacock 
 
 Peafowl 
 
 , Larded and Roasted 
 
 , Trussed 
 
 Pheasant 
 
 (& la Bonne Fenlme) 
 
 (& la'Salnte Alliance) 
 
 and Macaroni " 
 
 , Boiled ■ 
 
 , Broiled 
 
 Cutlets ■ " 
 
 , FlUets of 
 
 'j Flavour of vin-... 
 
 , Roast 
 
 , , to Carve 
 
 , Salmi ol 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 , , with Cstbbage 
 
 - — , Stuffed and Roasted 
 
 , Trussed- 
 
 Pigeon 
 
 Pigeons (& la ^t. Mteehonld) ' 
 
 (a la ■freySHese) ' ■ -• 
 
 , Braised', with MuslirooniB, 
 
 etc. ■' -.' - 
 
 , Broiled " -- 
 
 , CbmpSte of 
 
 , Curry of 
 
 , Cutlets of 
 
 — — (en Matelote) 
 
 (en FapUlotes) 
 
 (en Surprise) 
 
 Escalopes of,' In C^ses - 
 
 >■ with Truffles 
 
 Fricasseed,' Brown 
 
 Fried ■" - - 
 
 In a Mould of JeUy 
 
 Jugged ; 
 
 RagOQt of 
 
 Roast 
 
 Served with Water-cress 
 
 Stewed 
 
 , with Asparagus 
 
 , Cabbage 
 
 . Green Peas 
 
 , Mushrooms 
 
 Stuffed and Roasted 
 
 Stewed 
 
 with Chestnuts and 
 
 Roasted 
 
 Trussed 
 
 with Rice and Parmesan 
 
 , Tomatoes 
 
 Pintail, or Sea Pheasant 
 Plover, Golden, Roasted 
 Plovers, Ctoosing of " 
 
 , Fried, with Truffles 
 
 . ^th Truffles — 
 
 Poularde (a la E^yal) 
 
 (S. la Stamboul) 
 
 , with Rice ' — 
 
 Poulardes (S. la Rossini) 
 Poulet (k la Marengra) 
 I Blanc 
 
 (en Casserole) 
 
 -^-^'3 (eii Cotelettes) . • 
 
 Poultry (k la Tartare) 
 
 , Boiled, Remarks on 
 
 , Boning of 
 
 , Fattening of, for the Table 
 
CLASSIFiEb *ABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 11^ 
 
 Poultry, Prepared tor Cooking 
 
 Roebuck, Roast 
 
 Venison Cutlets, Broiled 
 
 , Ragout of 
 
 ^ , Koasted, to Make Tender 
 
 Rook Ac 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 R6tl de Pauvre Homme 
 
 , Fried 
 
 Prairie Hens 
 
 Ruff, Fattening of the 
 
 Fry • 
 
 Ptarmigan 
 
 Ruffs and Reeves 
 
 , Haunch ol 
 
 , Roasted 
 
 Salmi, Cold 
 
 , (M.-Ude's recipe) 
 
 Puffin 
 
 , Hunter's 
 
 , , to Carva' 
 
 Quail 
 
 of Game or Wild Fowl 
 
 , Jugged 
 
 Quails, Boned and Stufied 
 
 Partridges, with 
 
 . Marinaded and Baked 
 
 , Compote 61 
 
 Truffles 
 
 , Neck ol. Roast 
 
 in Aspic 
 
 Small Birds, Broiled 
 
 ,, Oxford John of 
 
 , Roast 
 
 . Fried 
 
 , Bed Deer 
 
 , Salmi ol 
 
 Snipe (^ la Minute) 
 
 , Roast 
 
 , Trussing ol 
 
 , ChoosinK of 
 
 , Roebuck : 
 
 RaDblt '- 
 
 , Cooked (Gerinan-lashion) 
 
 , Saddle of. Crusted 
 
 (a la Juliette) 
 
 . Curried ■ - ; 
 
 , Shoulder of. Braised 
 
 (a la Minute) 
 
 1 — — , Roasted 
 
 , - — , Marinaded 
 
 (a,la Poulette) ■ '^ 
 
 , Roasted, with Truffles 
 
 , , Roast 
 
 (4 la Tartare) 
 
 , Superlative 
 
 , • , Stewed 
 
 • , Baked 
 
 , to Truss 
 
 Steaks, Broiled 
 
 , , and Macaroni 
 
 ' Strasburg Goose 
 
 : , Fried 
 
 , , with Rice 
 
 Swan 
 
 ; , with Bacon 
 
 , Barbecued 
 
 Teal 
 
 1 . Stewed 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 , Devilled 
 
 1 , Wholesomeness of 
 
 , , and Onions 
 
 . Filleted 
 
 • Wheatears 
 
 , , to Carve 
 
 , Roasted 
 
 Widgeon 
 
 , Broiled (a la Maintenon) 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 , Roast 
 
 , Civet ol 
 
 Turkey 
 
 Wild Duck 
 
 , Curried 
 
 . , Boiled 
 
 (i la Chasseur) 
 
 , Fillet ol 
 
 , , , and Stuffed with 
 
 I (American fashion) 
 
 , Fricandeau ol 
 
 Tongue 
 
 ] — '-, Fillets of, with Olive's 
 
 , Fricasseed 
 
 , Boning of 
 
 or Celery 
 
 , , Brovpn 
 
 , Braised 
 
 , — , - — Tbly- 
 
 '-, White 
 
 , Carving ol 
 
 rade Sauce 
 
 , , (Superior) 
 
 , Choosing of 
 
 , , Truffles 
 
 Fried 
 
 , Cooked, to Eat Cold 
 
 , Roast 
 
 , Hovf to Choose a 
 
 , Drawing of 
 
 • . (Polish fashion) 
 
 , Jugged 
 
 . -:)(arinaded and Broiled 
 
 , with Oranges 
 
 -, Larded 
 
 , ■Oia, Best way of Dressing 
 
 Fowl (Hunter's fashion) 
 
 , Marinaded and Baked 
 
 , Plucking of 
 
 , Fillets of, with Bigar- 
 
 , Fried 
 
 Poult, to Roast '"",."' 
 
 ade Sauce ' ' •'• 
 
 , Minced 
 
 , Truffled 
 
 '■ , Plucking ol ■ 
 
 , Roast 
 
 , Roast 
 
 , Roast . 
 
 , , and Chestnuts 
 
 . , Rolled 
 
 : . , Salmi of "' 
 
 (Dr. Kitchener's 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 1 , Truffled Saut6 of 
 
 recipe) 
 
 ! , Stuffed with Chestnuts 
 
 i Woodcock 
 
 , Plain 
 
 [ , Chicken 
 
 j (a la LucuUus) 
 
 , Smothered with Onions 
 
 ' , Mushroom Force- 
 
 (a la Perlgeux) 
 
 Spanish way of Cooking 
 , Stewed 
 
 meat 
 -^— . Truffled 
 
 , Chaudfrold of 
 
 , Devilled 
 
 WholP 
 
 = — , -; — , , Economically 
 
 , Fillets of 
 
 , Stuffed and Stewed 
 
 '- — ,-■ Trussed, lor Boiling 
 
 , (a la Talleyrand) 
 
 , to Skin 
 
 . , Roasting 
 
 ,- , with Truffle 
 
 , Truss 
 
 , Trussing and Carving of 
 
 Purge 
 
 (Venetian way) 
 
 ) , with Celery Sauce 
 
 , Mock 
 
 , with Curry 
 
 Chlpolata Garnish 
 
 , Rojtst 
 
 , Herbs 
 
 i , Foie Gras 
 
 (Sportsman's fashion) 
 
 Jerusalem Artichokes 
 Red Deer Venison 
 
 ' , Truffles 
 
 1 Venison 
 
 , Stuffed 
 
 , and Roasted 
 
 Rice, Fowl Stewed in 
 
 (a la Daube) 
 
 , Tetrine of 
 
 Roebuck 
 
 , Braised 
 
 , Cutlets ol 
 
 . Breast of. Stewed 
 
 J , Choosing of 
 
 j Chops 
 
 , Trussed 
 
 , with Oysters" 
 
 Wood Hens ^ (Russian fashion) 
 
 , Haricot of 
 
 i Collops, Minced 
 
 — '—, Pair of 
 
 Haunch of. Marinaded 
 
 j - — , Scotch 
 
 Wood Pigeons 
 
 , Jugged 
 
 i 
 i 
 
 
1156 
 
 CASSELL'S NEW DICTIONARY OF COOKEBT. 
 
 Ambrosial 
 
 Anchovy 
 
 Artichoke 
 
 Banana 
 
 Beans, French 
 
 Beetroot 
 
 Celery 
 
 Chicken 
 
 Crab 
 
 Currant 
 
 Egg 
 
 Endive 
 
 , with Winter Salad 
 
 Fish 
 
 French 
 
 Fruit 
 
 Game 
 
 German 
 
 Grouse 
 
 (a la Soyer) 
 
 Halibut 
 
 Ham 
 
 Hamburg Beef, or Hambro' 
 
 Haricot Bean 
 
 Hop 
 
 Italian 
 
 Lentil 
 
 Lettuce (German reoipeV 
 
 Lobster 
 
 Mayonnaise 
 
 Moor Game (a la Soyer) 
 
 SALADS. 
 
 Neutchatel 
 Orange 
 
 and Banana 
 
 Oyster and Celery 
 Partridge 
 
 — — , Mayonnaise of 
 Plover's Egg (a la Chartreuse) 
 Potato 
 
 (French) 
 
 (German) 
 
 Ptarmigan 
 Rabbit 
 
 — — , Simple 
 Raspberry 
 Rochelle 
 Russian 
 Salad 
 
 , Beef 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 , Cheap and Good 
 
 , Cold Vegetable ' 
 
 , Every-day 
 
 . Flemish 
 
 , French 
 
 , Fruit 
 
 , German 
 
 , Herbs 
 
 , , Small 
 
 , Hungarian 
 
 , Italian 
 
 Mixture 
 
 Salad Mixture, Quihl 
 
 of Herrings 
 
 , Red Cabbage 
 
 , Roman 
 
 , Swedish 
 
 Salade Russe 
 
 Salads, Wholesomeness of 
 
 , Winter 
 
 Salmon 
 
 -. with Jelly 
 
 Balsify 
 
 Samphire 
 
 Sardine 
 
 Saxon or Sardine 
 
 Shrimp 
 
 Sorrel 
 
 Spanish 
 
 Onidn 
 
 Spring 
 Strawberry 
 Summer Fruit 
 
 Vegetable 
 
 Swedish 
 
 Tomato 
 
 Turbot 
 
 Turkey 
 
 Vegetable 
 
 Water-cress 
 
 and Pickle 
 
 Winter 
 
 Yorkshire Plouglunan's 
 
 SANDWICHES. 
 
 Adelaide 
 
 American 
 
 Cheese 
 
 Chicken and Ham 
 
 Egg 
 
 Fish 
 
 Ham 
 
 Irish 
 
 Italian 
 
 Jam 
 
 Lemon 
 
 Pastry 
 
 Potato 
 
 Rice 
 
 Salad 
 
 Sandwiches 
 
 . Superior 
 
 Sardine 
 
 Shrimp 
 
 Union 
 
 Victoria (Savoury) 
 
 (Sweet) 
 
 Wheetham 
 
 Admiral's Sauce 
 AUemand Sauce 
 Almond Sauce 
 Anchovy and Caper Sauce 
 
 Butter Sauce 
 
 , Essence of 
 
 Sauce 
 
 lor Beef 
 
 Salmon 
 
 Apple Sauce, Baked 
 
 for Roast Goose 
 
 Arrowroot Sauce 
 Artichoke Sauce 
 Asparagus Sauce 
 
 Aurora Sauce 
 Bearnalse Sauce 
 
 SAUCES AND GRAVIES. 
 
 Bechamel 
 Maigre 
 
 Beef Sauce, Flquante 
 
 Bigarade Sauce 
 
 Blanche Sauce 
 j Blonde Fish Sauce 
 
 Boar's Head Sauce 
 
 Bordelalse Sauce 
 
 Brawn Sauce 
 
 Bread Sauce 
 i Bretonne Sauce 
 
 Brown Butter Sauce 
 
 Sauce 
 
 Bullock's Liver for Gravies 
 Butter (a I'Espagnole) 
 
 (a la Maltre d'H6tel) 
 
 Butter, jBrown 
 
 , Burnt Sauca 
 
 , Clarified 
 
 , Melted 
 
 , Ravlgote 
 
 , Sauce 
 
 Caper Sauce 
 
 Cardinal Sauce 
 
 Carp, Sauce for 
 
 Carrot Sauce 
 
 Cauliflower Sauce 
 
 Celery Sauce 
 
 Cherry Sauce 
 
 Chestnut Sauce 
 
 Chicken, Mushroom Sauoe for 
 
 , Sauce for 
 
CLASSIFIED TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 1157 
 
 Chicken, Sauce Jor Roast 
 
 -^, White Sauce for Boiled 
 Christopher North's Sauce 
 Cinnamon Sauce 
 Claret Sauce 
 Cockle Sauce 
 Cocoa-nut Sauce 
 Codling, Sauce tor 
 Court Bouillon 
 Crab Butter Sauce 
 
 Sauce 
 
 Cranberry Sauce 
 Cream Sauce 
 Cress Sauce 
 Cucumber Ketchup 
 
 ■ Sauce 
 
 , White, Sauce 
 
 Cuius, or Rich Gravy 
 Cura^oa Sauce ,. 
 
 Currant Sauce 
 Curry Gravy 
 
 Sauce 
 
 Custard Sauce tor Sweet Puddings 
 
 Cutlets, Sance for 
 
 Devil Gravy 
 
 Dory~-t|j Caper Sauce 
 
 Duck, Gravy for 
 
 Dutch Sauce 
 
 fat Fish 
 
 Eels, Sauce for 
 Egg Sauce 
 
 for Calf's Sead 
 
 Epicurean Sauce, 
 Espagnole Sauce 
 
 Fast Day ^uce 
 Fennel Sa(!ce 
 Fish Gravy 
 , Grilled, Sauce for 
 
 Sauce 
 
 , for Boiled 
 
 , without Butter 
 
 Fowl, Sauce for 
 
 , White Oyster Sauce for 
 
 Fruit Sauce for Puddings 
 
 Sweet fauces 
 
 Game, Sauce for 
 
 ; Piquante for 
 
 Garlic Gravy 
 
 ■ , Mild Ragout of 
 
 Sauce 
 
 Genevese Sauce 
 Genoa Sauce for Fish 
 Genoese Sauce for Fish 
 German Pudding Sauce 
 
 ■ Sance 
 
 Gin Sauce 
 Ginger Sauce 
 Gobble Sauce for Flsli 
 Goose, Cold Sauce for 
 
 , Gravy for 
 
 Gooseberry Sauce for Mackerel 
 Gravy 
 
 , Beef, Clear 
 
 , , for Poultry and Game 
 
 , , Plain 
 
 , Brown, Cheap and Good 
 
 , Cow-heel 
 
 , English, Brown 
 
 Espagnole 
 
 Gravy, Espagnole, made without 
 Meat 
 
 for Baked Fish 
 
 Boiled Meat 
 
 • Curried Fish 
 
 Cutlets 
 
 Ducks 
 
 • Fish Pies, etc. 
 
 • Fowls, Cheap 
 
 Game 
 
 Pie 
 
 ■ Goose or Duck 
 
 ■ Grills and Broils 
 
 Haddocks, Baked 
 
 Hare 
 
 Hashes 
 
 , Cheap 
 
 Minced Veal, Cheap 
 
 Patties 
 
 • Pike, Baked 
 
 Rissoles 
 
 ■ Roast Meat 
 
 ■ Venison 
 
 Veal and Ham Pie 
 
 in Haste 
 
 , Jugged 
 
 , Kidney 
 
 made without Meat, for 
 
 Fowls 
 
 - Malgre for Fish (or Root 
 
 Gravy) 
 Onion 
 Orange 
 Panada 
 
 Piquant, for Hash 
 Rice 
 Savoury 
 Shallot 
 to Clarify (see Clear Soup) 
 
 Improve the Flavour 
 
 or Strength of 
 
 Keep 
 
 make Mutton like 
 
 Venison 
 
 Veal, for White Sauce 
 
 White, for Fish 
 Grayling, Sauce for 
 Green Dutch Sauce 
 
 Mint Sauce 
 
 Ravlgote Sauce 
 
 : Sauce for Boiled Chicken 
 
 for Ducks and Young 
 
 Geese 
 Grillon Sauce 
 Ham Sauce for Flavouring Gravies 
 
 Grills and Boils 
 
 Hanover Sauce, tor Fowls, etc. 
 Hare, Batter for Basting 
 
 , Liver Sauce for 
 
 , Mutton Gravy for 
 
 , Sauce for 
 
 , Wine Sauce for" 
 
 Harrogate Sauce for Wild Fowl 
 Herb Sauce 
 Herrings, Sauce for 
 
 , of, for Fish 
 
 Hip Sauce, for Puddings 
 Hollajidaise. Sauce 
 Holsteln Sauce for Fish 
 
 Horse-radish Sauce, Brown, for 
 Boiled Meat or Fish 
 
 for Cold Roast Beet 
 
 , Hot, lor Boiled Fowls, 
 
 etc. 
 
 ■ , with Egg's 
 
 Hot Sauce for Broils, etc. 
 Household Gravy, Superior 
 Indian Pickle Sauce 
 
 • Sauce 
 
 Italian Sauce 
 
 • (Rouge et Blanc) 
 
 — ,. White 
 
 John Dory, §^ce for 
 Kidney Gravy 
 Lamb, Sauce for 
 "Lemon and Liver Sauce for Fowls 
 
 Sauce for Fowls 
 
 ' , White 
 
 — — Puddings 
 
 Liver and Parsley Sauce 
 
 ■ Sauce for Fish 
 
 Roast Hare 
 
 Lobster Sauce 
 
 , Mock 
 
 , Piquante for 
 
 Lyonnaise Sauce for Cutlets, etc. 
 Mackerel and Tomato Sauce 
 
 ■ Roe, Sauce of 
 
 Sauce, or Fennel Sauce 
 
 'Madeira Sauce 
 
 ■ , with Chestnuts 
 
 Maitre d'Hotel Sauce 
 Mandram Sauce 
 Marmalade, Orange, Sauce 
 Matrimony Sauce 
 Mayonnaise Sauce 
 Meat Gravy for Sauces 
 
 — ■ ■ and similar 
 
 purposes 
 Melted Butter Sauce 
 Milanese Sauce 
 Milk or Cream Sauce 
 Mint Sauce 
 Morels, Sauce of 
 Mushrooms, Pickled, Sauce of 
 
 , Sauce of. Brown 
 
 , ■ , White 
 
 Mussels, Sauce of 
 
 Mustard Sauce 
 
 Naples Sauce for Fish 
 
 Nasturtium-Seed Sauce 
 
 Neapolitan Sauce 
 
 Olive Sauce for Ducks, Fowls 
 
 Beefsteaks, etc. 
 Onion Sauce 
 
 Brown 
 
 , Piquant 
 
 German 
 
 White 
 
 , Common 
 
 Young 
 Orange Cream Sauce 
 
 Gravy for Teal, Woodcock, 
 
 etc. 
 
 Sauce for Ducks, etc. 
 
 Sweet Puddings 
 
 Oude Sauce for Cold Meat 
 Oyster and Shrimp Sauce 
 Oysters, Sauce of. Brown 
 
1158 
 
 CASSELL'S NEW DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. 
 
 Oysters, Sauce of, Mock 
 - — , - — -^, White 
 PaplUote Sauce for Veal or Mutton 
 Cutlets (a la Malatenon) 
 Paris Sauce for Sweet Puddings 
 Parsley Sauce 
 
 i.. Imitation 
 
 Partridges, Cold,. Sauce for 
 Perigueux Sauce 
 
 Pig, Sucking, Gravy for 
 Pike, Matelote Sauce for 
 
 , Sauces for 
 
 , Wlilte Sauce for 
 
 Pineapple Sauces for Puddings 
 
 Piquant Sauce 
 
 Plum Pudding, Sauce for 
 
 Sauce for Puddings and 
 
 Sweet Dishes ._, - -- 
 
 , Simple, for Sweet 
 
 Puddings 
 Po61e 
 Polvrade Sauce 
 
 — -, easily made 
 
 Polish Sauce for Sweet Puddings 
 Pontiff's Sauce . , . 
 
 Poor Man's Sauce, for Cold Meats 
 Pork, Roast, Apple Sauce for 
 Portuguese Sauce for Fish 
 
 Port Wine Sauce 
 
 Poulette Sauce 
 
 Princes' Sauce for Broiled Fish 
 
 and.. Salads 
 Provenjale Sauce 
 Prune Sauce for Puddings 
 Pudding Sauce, Careme's 
 
 Sauces, Sweet 
 
 Punch Sauce for Sweet Puddings 
 Queen' Mary's Sauce for Boast 
 
 Mutton 
 Queen's Sauce for Boiled Flum 
 
 Puddings 
 Quin's Sauce for Fish 
 Rabbit, Mushroom Sauce foi 
 
 , Sauces for 
 
 Badlsh Sauce 
 
 , Horse .; 
 
 Ragoftts, Gravy for all Kinds ol 
 Raspberry Sauce 
 
 (Danish recipe) 
 
 Ratafia Sauce for Sweet Puddings 
 Ravigote Butter for Sauces 
 
 Sauce for Hare and Venison 
 
 Meat and Poultry 
 
 of various kinds 
 
 , Green, for Salads, etc. 
 
 Reading Sauce 
 
 Red Currant Sauce 
 
 Mullet, Sauce for 
 
 Refreshing Sauce (Sauce Rafrai- 
 
 chissante) 
 Regent's Sauce for Sweet Puddings 
 Relishing Sauce for Broiled Bones, 
 
 Fowls, etc, 
 Ricardo Sauce for Game, etc. 
 Rice Sauce 
 Richelieu Sauce 
 Roast Meat, Gravy for 
 Robert Sauce 
 
 , (M. Ude's way) 
 
 Roe Sauce 
 
 Roman Sauce_ 
 
 Rose' Sauce for Sweet Puddings, 
 
 etc. 
 Royal Sauce for Fish 
 
 — r. — Turkeys and 
 
 Fowls 
 Rump Steak, Piquant Sauce for 
 
 Steaks, Gravy for 
 
 Russian Sauce 
 Sabazlne or Sabaillon 
 Sage and Onion GrSvy 
 
 Sago Sauce for Boiled Puddings 
 Salad Sauce 
 
 , Mayonnaise 
 
 Salmis Sauce 
 Salmon, Sauces for 
 
 Trout, Sauce for 
 
 Salsify Sauce 
 Sardine Sauce 
 
 Sauce for BoulUi 
 
 Fresh-water Fish 
 
 Relishing Beef, Hot or 
 
 Cold 
 
 Mirepoix, for Flavouring 
 
 Sauces 
 
 Sausages, Sauce for 
 Saxony Sauce 
 Shallot, for Venison 
 
 Gfavy for Broiled Cutlets, 
 
 etc. 
 
 Sauce for Boiled Muttoij, etc 
 
 , Tripe, etc. 
 
 , Mild 
 
 Sharp Sauce for Cutlets, etc. 
 Shikaree Sauce for Ducks, etc. 
 Shrimp and Asparagus Sauce 
 
 Butter for Sauces, etc. 
 
 Sauce for Trout, etc. 
 
 (M. Tide's recipe) 
 
 — -—,' Superior 
 
 Sicilian Sauce for Fowls, Turkeys 
 
 etc. 
 Skate, Sauces for 
 Sole, Sauce for 
 Sorrel Sauce 
 Soubise Sauce 
 
 , Brown 
 
 Sour Sauce for Fish 
 Soy 
 
 , Chinese Preparation Of 
 
 , Japanese 
 
 Spanish Sauce 
 
 . Highly Flavoured 
 
 ■ , made from Bones 
 
 (M. Tide's way) 
 
 , quickly made 
 
 , to make small quan- 
 
 tity of 
 
 , with Game 
 
 Spinach Sauce for Boiled Fowls, 
 
 etc. 
 Sturgeon, Sauce for 
 Superior Sauce, for Flavouring 
 
 Stews 
 Supreme Sauce 
 Sweet Sauce for Puddings 
 
 — - Venison 
 
 Syrup and Wine Sauce for 
 
 Puddings 
 Tarragon Sauce for Boiled Fowls 
 
 Tartar Sauce 
 Teal, Gravy for 
 
 , Sauce for 
 
 Tench, Sauces for 
 
 Tomato Pure for Roast Beef, etc. 
 
 Veal Cutlets, etc. 
 
 Sauce for Present Use 
 
 , Mock 
 
 Trout, Sauces for 
 
 Truffle Sauce 
 
 Turbot, Sauce for 
 
 Turkey, Sauces for 
 
 Turtle Sauce for Calf's Head 
 
 Universal Sauce 
 
 Vanilla Custard Sauce for Sweet 
 Puddings 
 
 Sauce for Sweet Puddings 
 
 Veal Consomme, for Making White 
 
 Sauces 
 Veal Cutlets, Gravy for 
 
 Gravy, Endive with 
 
 , for 
 
 Rissoles, Graty for 
 
 , Roast, Sauce for 
 
 Vegetable Marrow Sauce for 
 Poultry 
 
 Sauce (Jus Maigre de 
 
 Racines) 
 Veloute Sauce 
 
 Maigre 
 
 , or White Cullis 
 
 Venetian Sauce 
 Venison, Gravy for 
 
 , Sauces for 
 
 Victoria Sauce for Sweet Puddings 
 Vinaigrette, Sauce a la 
 Vinegar Sauce for Venison 
 Volage Sauce 
 Wales, Prince of, Sauce, for 
 
 Salads and Broiled Fish 
 Whip Sauce, Rich, for Boiled 
 
 Puddings 
 White Bechamel Sauce, Cold ^ 
 
 — - , Economical and 
 
 Good 
 
 (small quantity) 
 
 Sauce 
 
 (French) 
 
 , Economical 
 
 , for Fish 
 
 , Turkey or Fowl 
 
 , Vegetables 
 
 — — Sharp Sauce 
 
 Wine Sauce, for Sole 
 
 Whiting, Sauce for 
 Widgeon, Gravy for 
 
 Wild Fowl, Sauces for 
 Wine Custard Sauce 
 
 Sauce for Sweet Puddings 
 
 , Eed 
 
 Winged Game, Sauce for 
 Woodcock, Gravy for 
 
 Puree 
 
 Wow Wow Sauce for Boiled Beef, 
 
 etc. 
 Yacht Sauce (4 la Monico) 
 
 (a la Norah) 
 
 Yankee Pudding Sauce for Pan- 
 cakes, etc. 
 
 Zouave Sauce 
 
CLASSIFIED .TABLE OP CONTENTS. 
 
 1159 
 
 SOUPS (POTAGES, CONSOMMES, AND STOCKS) AND THICKENINGS. 
 
 Almond Soup 
 
 Apple Soup, German 
 
 Artichokes, Jerusalem, Soup or 
 
 Puree of 
 Asparagus Soup 
 Autumn Soup 
 Barley Broth, Scotch . 
 Beans, Haricot, Puree of 
 
 , , Soup 
 
 Beef, Roast, and Boiled -Turkey 
 
 Soup 
 , Shin of. Soup 
 
 Stock 
 
 Beer Soup 
 Beetroot Soup 
 Bisque de Homard 
 Bprtsch 
 Bouillabalse 
 Bouillon 
 
 Broth, Strengthening 
 Brown Soup 
 Brunoise Soup 
 Cahhage Soup 
 Calf's Foot Broth 
 
 -, Soup 
 
 Stock 
 
 Head, Mock Turtle Soup 
 
 Soup 
 
 Carrot Soup 
 Carrots, Red PurSe of 
 Cauliflower Soup 
 Celery, Purfie of 
 
 Soup 
 
 Chantilly Soup 
 Cheese. Soup 
 Chestnut Soup 
 Chestnuts, Puree of 
 Chicken Broth 
 Clam Soup 
 
 Clear Soup 
 
 Cochineal Colouring < 
 
 Cock-a-Leekie 
 
 Cocoa-nut Soup 
 
 Codling Soup 
 
 Colouring 
 
 Conger Eel Soup 
 
 Consomme 
 
 Cottage Soup 
 
 Cow-heel Stock 
 
 Crab Soup 
 
 Crayfish Soup 
 
 , to Dress 
 
 , Stew 
 
 Cream of Cheese Soup 
 
 Eice Soup 
 
 Cr6me d'Orge, Soup. of 
 Cressy Soup 
 Croflte-au-Pot 
 Cucumber Soup 
 Duck Giblet Soup 
 
 Eel Broth 
 
 Soup 
 
 , Brown 
 
 , White 
 
 Egg Soup 
 
 Eggs, Liaison of, for Thickening 
 Sauces ' 
 
 , Puree of 
 
 Family Soup 
 Fish Soup 
 
 , with Potatoes 
 
 Stock 
 
 , Brown 
 
 Fisherman's Soup 
 Flemish Soup 
 Flour, Browned 
 Fowl Soup . t 
 Friar's Chicken Soup 
 Game, PurSe of 
 
 Soup 
 
 Stock 
 
 German Asparagus Soup 
 
 Broth 
 
 Soup 
 
 Giblet Soup 
 
 , Duck's '•- 
 
 . German 
 
 Glaze 
 
 , for Cold Hams, Tongues, 
 
 etc. 
 
 , Pastry 
 
 Goose Soup 
 
 Gourkha Soup 
 
 Gravy, Brown, Roux, lor Thickening 
 
 , , Soup 
 
 , Colouring and- Flavouring. 
 
 , Jelly lor 
 
 Soup, with Vermicelli 
 
 , Stock for . 
 
 , White Eoux, for Thickening 
 
 Green Corn Soup 
 Greening, for Soups 
 Green Pea Soup 
 
 , Early Spring 
 
 (Malgre, or with- 
 
 out Meat) 
 Grouse Soup 
 Guinea Fowl Soup 
 Haddock Soup 
 Hake Soup 
 Hare, Purfie of 
 
 Soup 
 
 (a richer way) 
 
 (from remains of 
 
 Jugged Hare) 
 Haricot Beans, Purge of 
 Hasty Soup 
 Herb Soup 
 Hessian Soup 
 Hotch-Potch 
 Hunter's Soup 
 
 Italian Potage (Brown Soup) 
 Jardlnlfere Soup 
 Jelly, Stock for 
 Julienne Soup 
 Sale Brose 
 Kidney Soup 
 Leeks and Potato Soup (Maigre) 
 
 , Soup of 
 
 , (Cock-a-Leekle) 
 
 Leeks Soup, Scotch 
 Lentil Flour Soup 
 
 Soup 
 
 ^— (a, la. Souhise) . .. .. 
 
 Liaisons 
 
 Liver Soup, Brown 
 Lobster and Prawn Soup 
 
 Soup 
 
 . , with Milk 
 
 Macaroni Soup 
 
 Marmite, Petite 
 
 Meagre Soup (Soupe Maigre) 
 
 Meat and Vegetable Stock 
 
 Meg Merrilees Soup ; 
 
 Melton Mowbray Soup 
 
 Milk Soup 
 
 Mock Turtle Soup 
 
 Moor Game Soup 
 
 Mullagatawny Soup 
 
 , Calf's Head 
 
 , Fowl 
 
 , Household . . 
 
 , Rabbit 
 
 , Vegetable 
 
 Mussels, Soup, of ... - 
 
 Mutton Broth 
 
 . quickly made 
 
 , Scotch, Summer 
 
 ^-Stock lor Soup. 
 
 Neats' Feet Soup 
 Nouilles, Soup of 
 Oatmeal and Onion Soup 
 Onion Soup ^ 
 — — — —, Brown .^ - 
 
 , Maigre 
 
 Ox Cheek Soup 
 
 Tail Soup, Clear 
 
 , Thick 
 
 Oysters, Soup of 
 
 , . Economical 
 
 , , Rich 
 
 Palestine Soup 
 Panada Soup 
 Pancakes, Soup of 
 Parmentler Soup 
 Parsnip Soup 
 Partridges, Soup of 
 Pear Soup 
 Peas, Green, Soup 
 
 , ^ — , — —, without Meat 
 
 Soup 
 
 Pepper Pot 
 Pheasant Soup 
 Pig's Feet, Soup of 
 Pigeon Soup 
 
 Plum Porridge or Broth 
 Poor Man's Soup 
 
 , Dr. Kitchener's 
 
 Pork Soup or Jelly 
 
 Portable Soup 
 Potage (4 la Colbert) 
 
 (4 IS Cond«) 
 
 (a la Crecy) 
 
 (ft la Reine) 
 
 (ft la Xavier) 
 
1160 
 
 cassell's new dictionary op cookery. 
 
 Potage de Veau 
 Potato and Milk Soup 
 , Puree of 
 
 Soup 
 
 (a la Creme) 
 
 Pot-au-Feu 
 
 - (au Bain-Marie) 
 
 , Analysis of 
 
 , Household 
 
 Prawn and Lobster Soup 
 
 Soup 
 
 Princes' Soup 
 Prussian Soup 
 Puchero, Spanish 
 Pumpkin and Rice Soup 
 
 Soup 
 
 Puree 
 
 Queen's Soup, or Potage a la Reine 
 Rahhlt Soup 
 
 (M. Tide's recipe) 
 
 , Superior 
 
 Ravioli Soup 
 
 Ray Soup 
 Regent's Soup 
 Rhubarb Soup 
 
 • , Sweet 
 
 Bice and Egg Soup 
 
 Green Pea Soup 
 
 Onion Soup 
 
 — Veal Broth 
 
 Cream Soup 
 
 Flour, for Thickening Soups 
 
 and Sauces 
 
 Soup 
 
 Soup 
 
 , Brown 
 
 , Italian 
 
 . made with Fresh Meat 
 
 , Royal 
 
 , Superior 
 
 - , White 
 
 Stew Soup 
 
 Risotto 
 
 Roots, Essence of (Maigrej 
 Roux 
 
 , Brown 
 
 J , for Immediate Use 
 
 , White 
 
 Russian Cabbage -Soup 
 
 Soup 
 
 Sago Soup 
 
 . Red 
 
 , White 
 
 Sailor's Soup 
 Salmon Soup 
 
 Santg, Potage de (Carfime's recipe) 
 Sauces, to Thicken 
 Savoy Soup 
 
 Scotch Broth (Genuine Scotch 
 recipe) 
 
 (M. Ude's recipe) 
 
 Soup 
 
 Semolina Soup 
 
 Sheep's Head Broth (Scotch) 
 
 (English) 
 
 - Soup 
 
 Shrimp and Tomato Soup 
 Simple Soup ' 
 
 Skate Soup 
 
 (Malgre) 
 
 Sorrel Soup 
 
 Soup 
 — - (Cheshire) 
 
 Tablets 
 
 without Stock 
 
 Soups and Broths, Dr. Kitchener 
 
 on 
 Spanish Chestnut Soup 
 
 Soup 
 
 Spinach Soup 
 
 (a la Fran^aise) 
 
 (Maigre) 
 
 Spring Herbs Soup 
 
 Soup 
 
 , Early 
 
 • (M. Ude's recipe) 
 
 ■ — - -« — of Early Cabbages 
 
 , Thick 
 
 Stock 
 
 , Browning for 
 
 , Clarifying 
 
 for Aspic Jelly 
 
 Freed from Fat 
 
 , Game 
 
 , General 
 
 Made from Bones 
 
 Cow-heel 
 
 , Meat 
 
 , Quickly Made 
 
 , Rich and Strong 
 
 , Second 
 
 , Superior, Clear Brown 
 
 , to Keep Good 
 
 , White, for White Soups and 
 
 Sauces 
 
 , with Fried Bread 
 
 Succotash Soup 
 
 Superlative Soup, Dr. Kitchener's 
 
 Tapioca Cream Soup 
 
 ' Soup 
 
 Thickening 
 
 , Brown 
 
 . (M. Ude's way) 
 
 of Egg 
 
 Farinaceous Substance 
 
 , Quickly made 
 
 . Simple Way for Ordinary 
 
 Brown Soup 
 
 , White, for Sauces 
 
 . with Butter or Butter and 
 
 Cream 
 Tomato Soup 
 Tongue Sou; 
 
 Tongues, Roots of 
 Tschi, or Russian Soup 
 Turkey Soup, Economical 
 
 , Superior 
 
 Turnip and Potato Soup 
 
 Broth 
 
 Soup 
 
 Turtle Soup 
 
 , from Dried Turtle 
 
 Flesh 
 
 Tinned Turtle 
 
 Mock 
 Mock, Clear 
 
 (easy way) 
 
 , made with Cow- 
 heel 
 
 , to Heat 
 
 Veal and Rice Soup 
 
 Broth 
 
 , Brown 
 
 , Knuckle of, and Rice Soup 
 
 , , Soup 
 
 Pottage 
 
 Soup 
 
 , with Rice or Force- 
 
 meat Balls 
 Vegetable Consomme 
 Marrow Soup 
 
 , Spring Soup of 
 
 Soup 
 
 (Puree) ^ 
 
 , Summer 
 
 , Vegetable Strips for 
 
 . Winter 
 
 , with Meat 
 
 Stock 
 
 Venison Soup 
 
 . Brown 
 
 , made from Cold Roast 
 
 Venison 
 Vermicelli Soup 
 
 . Clear 
 
 — ^, White 
 
 Victoria Soup 
 Welsh Leek Porridge 
 White Roux 
 
 Soup 
 
 (a la Reine) 
 
 , Economical 
 
 ■ . Family 
 
 , Portable 
 
 Stock, tor Sauces and Soups 
 
 Wine Soup 
 
 , with Lemon 
 
 Soups 
 
 Winter Hotch Potch' 
 
 Soup 
 
 , Clear 
 
 Wisdom Soup 
 Xavier, Potage ^ la 
 Yachting Soup 
 
CliASSIFIEB TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 1161 
 
 SWEETS, CREAMS, ICES, BLANCMANGES, AND TABLE JELLIES. 
 
 Acid Ice 
 
 Almond and Orange Ice 
 
 Creams 
 
 Cream Ice 
 
 Croquantes 
 
 Custard 
 
 Darioles 
 
 Blamonds 
 
 Flummery 
 
 Jelly 
 
 Meringues 
 
 Nougat 
 
 Puffs 
 
 Almonds, Croquettes of 
 Apple Calf's Foot Jelly 
 
 Charlotte 
 
 Cream 
 
 Custard 
 
 -, — Sugar 
 
 Trifle 
 
 Apples and Apricot Charlotte 
 Apricot Charlotte 
 
 Cream 
 
 Custard 
 
 ^ Ice Cream 
 
 ~ Jelly 
 
 Jumbles 
 
 Paste 
 
 , Green 
 
 Arrowroot Blancmange 
 
 Cream 
 
 Jellr 
 
 Aspic Jelly 
 Banana Cream 
 
 Ice 
 
 Custard 
 
 Jelly 
 
 Trifle 
 
 Barberry Cream 
 Basket. Chantilly 
 Bavaroise 
 
 (a la Tanille) 
 
 Blackberry and Apple Fool 
 Blancmange 
 
 , American 
 
 , Rice 
 
 , with Chocolate 
 
 Bohemian Ice Cream 
 Bread, Tipsy 
 Butter, Creamed 
 
 , Fairy 
 
 Caledonian Cream 
 Cali's Foot Jelly 
 
 , Apple 
 
 , Lemon 
 
 , Maraschino 
 
 of Four Fruits 
 
 , Orange 
 
 Canary Cream 
 Caramel Custard 
 Casserole, Sweet 
 Champagne Cream 
 Charlotte 
 
 (a la St. Denis) 
 
 (a la Parlsienne) 
 
 Charlotte Prusslenne 
 
 Eusse 
 
 Cherry Jelly in Moulds 
 
 Water Ice 
 
 Chocolate Blancmange 
 
 Cannelons 
 
 Cream 
 
 Custard 
 
 Eclairs 
 
 Ice Cream 
 
 Cinnamon Ice Cream 
 Claret Pufls 
 Cocoa-nut cream 
 
 Paste 
 
 Coffee Cream 
 
 ^ustard 
 
 - — Ice Cream 
 
 Jelly 
 
 Cornflour Blancmange 
 
 Cream 
 
 Jelly 
 
 Cranberry Jelly 
 
 and Ground Eice Jelly 
 
 Cream (& la Parlsienne) 
 
 (a la Valois) 
 
 Apple Pie 
 
 , Burnt 
 
 , Caramel 
 
 , Clotted 
 
 . Coffee 
 
 £clairs 
 
 , Italian 
 
 , Lemon 
 
 , Neapolitan 
 
 , Orange 
 
 Patisserie 
 
 , Eice 
 
 , Sherry 
 
 , Substitute for 
 
 Toasts 
 
 , Vanilla 
 
 , Velvet , 
 
 , Whipped 
 
 , , with Chocolate 
 
 , . . Coffee 
 
 , , Liqueur 
 
 , , Vanilla 
 
 Creamed Tartlets 
 Creme d'Orge 
 Croquant Paste 
 Curacioa Jelly 
 Curds and Cream 
 Currant Cream Ice 
 
 , Eed, Cream 
 
 Custard 
 
 Water Ice 
 
 Custard (a la Eeine) 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 , Cherry 
 
 , Common 
 
 , Excellent 
 
 Fruit 
 
 Ice Cream 
 
 , Lemon 
 
 Mould 
 
 "Custard and Syrup 
 
 , without Eggs 
 
 Darioles 
 
 (a la Duchesse) 
 
 Date Cakes 
 
 Dessert Ice Currants 
 Devonshire Clotted Cream ^ 
 
 Junket 
 
 Dutch Cream 
 
 Custard 
 
 Flummery 
 
 Egg and Brandy Creaiu 
 Eggs, as Snow 
 
 , Blancmange of 
 
 Flemish Cream 
 
 Floating Island 
 
 Flummery 
 
 Fondant 
 
 Fondu 
 
 Four-Fruit Jelly 
 
 Frangipane 
 
 Froth, to Set, on Creams, CuBtardfl, 
 
 etc. 
 Fruit Cream lor Tarts 
 
 Creams 
 
 Isinglass Jelly 
 
 , Lemon, in Cream 
 
 , Macedoine of 
 
 Gelatine Jelly 
 Genoises de Mouilles 
 
 — - Glaoe 
 German Cream 
 
 Pufls 
 
 - — , Almond 
 
 Ginger Cream 
 
 , Ice 
 
 Water Ice 
 
 Wine 
 
 Glace Napolitain 
 Gooseberry Cream 
 
 Custard 
 
 Trifle 
 
 Grape Isinglass Jelly 
 Green Icing 
 Holstein Cream 
 Honeycomb Cream 
 
 , to Keep 
 
 Honey Noyeau, for Flavouring 
 Housewife's Cream 
 Ice, Colouring for 
 
 , Mock 
 
 , Preservation and Cutting of 
 
 Iced Pudding 
 
 Ices, Sugar Clarified for 
 
 Icing for Fruit Pies and Tarts 
 
 , Vienna 
 
 Imperial Cream 
 
 Indian Trifle 
 
 Irish Eock 
 
 Isinglass and Gelatine Jelly 
 
 Jelly, Constantla- 
 
 , Cranberry 
 
 , Currant and Easp- 
 
 berry 
 
 , Lemon 
 
1162 
 
 CASSELL'S NEW DICTIONARY- OF COOKERY. 
 
 Isinglass Jelly, Orange 
 
 , Strawberry 
 
 , toOlartfy 
 
 Italian Cream 
 
 Jelly 
 
 Jelly, General Observations on 
 Table 
 
 (!l la Bacchante) 
 
 ,- Bottled, to Mould 
 
 . Coffee , 
 
 , Ci.eam 
 
 — i Custard 
 
 Tartlets " 
 
 . Egg 
 
 , Fancy 
 
 , Fisli 
 
 , French 
 
 in Orange Skins 
 
 , Isinglass Clarified for 
 
 Liqueur 
 
 , Open, with Whipped- Cream 
 
 , Rice 
 
 , Russian 
 
 , Whipped 
 
 , with Whipped Cream 
 
 Junket, 
 
 Lady Abbess' Puffs 
 
 Lemon Blancmange , 
 
 Cheese 
 
 Cream 
 
 ■ Sponge 
 
 Creams 
 
 without Cream 
 
 Custard 
 
 , or Creams without 
 
 filled with Jelly 
 
 Floating Island 
 
 Honeycomb 
 
 Ice Cream 
 
 Isinglass, cir Gelatine, Jelly 
 
 Jelly, Isinglass, Superlative 
 
 Paste for Dessert 
 
 Puffs 
 
 Rice 
 
 Sago 
 
 Snow 
 
 Solid 
 
 Sponge 
 
 Syllabub 
 
 Tartlets 
 
 ' Water Ice 
 
 '■ Whey 
 
 Whip 
 
 Lime Cream 
 
 Jelly 
 
 Little Mary's Cup Puddings 
 London Syllabub 
 Lord Mayor's Trifle 
 Macaroni Custard 
 Macaroon Pyramids 
 Mac^dolne of Fruits In Jelly 
 Madeira Wine Jelly 
 Maraschino Bavaroise 
 
 Ice Cream 
 
 Jelly 
 
 Marble Jelly 
 
 Massepain (Marchpane or Marzi- 
 pan) 
 
 Medlar Jelly 
 Melon Cream 
 
 • Water Ice - - 
 
 Meot$ham Oreani' 
 Meringues 
 Milanese Cream 
 
 Ice Cream 
 
 Milk Blancmange 
 
 , Flavoured, for Sweet Dishes 
 
 Jelly " 
 
 Mine Fruit Ice Cream 
 
 Water lee 
 
 Mulberry Snow Cream 
 Neapolitan Ices 
 
 Sweetmeats 
 
 Nectarine Jelly 
 Nougat 
 
 Nougats (4 la Franpalse) 
 
 , Small 
 
 Noyeau Cream 
 
 Ice Creams 
 
 Jelly 
 
 , with Almonds 
 
 Orange Blancmange 
 
 Calf's Foot Jelly 
 
 Cream 
 
 Custard 
 
 Isinglass Jelly 
 
 {to Mould with 
 
 Oranges) 
 
 Sponge 
 
 Water Ice 
 
 Orange-flower Cream Ice 
 Oranges filled with Jelly 
 Orgeat Ice Cream 
 Palace Cream 
 
 Sweetmeats 
 
 Fanachee Jelly 
 
 Pastry Cream, for Garnishing Tart- 
 lets, etc. 
 Peach Cream Ice 
 - — Creams 
 
 Jelly 
 
 Water Ice 
 
 Petits Morceaux 
 
 Pineapple Cream in a Mould 
 
 . made with Tinned 
 
 Fruit 
 
 Creams, served in Glasses 
 
 Ice Cream 
 
 Jelly 
 
 Sponge 
 
 Water Ice 
 
 Pink Cream 
 
 Sugar 
 
 Pistachio Cream 
 
 Ice Cream 
 
 Plombl6re's Ice 
 
 Plum Lozenges, for Dessert 
 Polish Tartlets 
 Pomegranate Water lee 
 Pomona Jelly 
 Port Wine Jelly 
 PuH-paste Rings, or Pyramids 
 
 Tartlets 
 
 Punch Jelly (French recipe) 
 
 , made with Gelatine 
 
 Puncheon Jelly 
 
 Queen's Custard 
 
 Quince Blancmange 
 
 Cream 
 
 P — T- Custard 
 
 Jelly 
 
 Paste, for Dessert 
 
 Snow, for Dessert 
 
 Raspberry and Currant Jelly 
 
 Mould 
 
 Bavaroise 
 
 Blancmange '. ' 
 
 Cream 
 
 Ice 
 
 Creams, with Milk or Cream 
 
 Custard 
 
 Flummery 
 
 Ice 
 
 Sponge 
 
 Water lee 
 
 Ratafia Cream 
 
 , Iced 
 
 , Moulded 
 
 Ice Cream 
 
 , Iced 
 
 Red Currant Solid 
 
 Wine Custard 
 
 Rhenish Cream 
 Rhubarb Flummery 
 
 Mould 
 
 Riband Blancmange 
 
 Jelly of Two Colours 
 
 Rice and Almond Mould 
 
 Blancmange 
 
 Cream 
 
 Cups 
 
 Custard 
 
 Flummery 
 
 Froth 
 
 Jelly 
 
 Mould '- 
 
 , R^chauflfi of 
 
 Moulds 
 
 , Portuguese, Sweet 
 
 Pudding, Iced 
 
 Solid 
 
 Turban 
 
 Rock Cream 
 
 , Dublin 
 
 Rose Cream 
 
 Custard 
 
 Kuby under Snow 
 Rum Blancmange 
 
 lee 
 
 Jelly 
 
 Rusks, with Jam 
 Russian Charlotte 
 
 , with Apples 
 
 Jelly 
 
 Sabajone or Saballlou 
 Sack Cream 
 
 Sago Blancm^ange 
 
 J«Uy 
 
 , Moulded " 
 
 Scald Cream 
 
 Sheep's Trotters, Jelly from 
 
 Sherbet Cream 
 
 Silver Ice 
 
 Jelly 
 
 Snow Cheese 
 
 Cocoa-nut 
 
CLASSIFIED TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 1163 
 
 Snow Custard 
 S(}lld, Cream. 
 
 — — , Raspberry 
 
 , Batafla 
 
 , Syllabub 
 
 Somersetshire Frumenty 
 
 Syllabub 
 
 Spanish Cream ' , 
 
 Puffs 
 
 Spinach Cream 
 Spongecakes and Cream 
 
 , with Apple Snow 
 
 Staffordshire Syllabub 
 Stone Cream - 
 Strawberry Blancmange 
 
 Cream 
 
 Ice (a la Muscovite) 
 
 Glaces 
 
 Hydropathic Pudding 
 
 loe and Vanilla Ice, in one 
 
 Mould 
 
 Ice Cream 
 
 , made with Jam 
 
 Isinglass Jelly 
 
 Solid 
 
 Tartlets 
 
 Water Ice 
 
 Sugar Boiling 
 
 , Clarified, 
 
 Ices 
 Sussex Whips 
 Sweet Jellies 
 
 Jelly 
 
 lor Fresh-water 
 
 Swiss Cream 
 
 Trifle 
 
 Syllabubs 
 
 , Common 
 
 in Glasses 
 
 , Large 
 
 , Simple 
 
 . Solid 
 
 that will Keep a Week or 
 
 More 
 
 under the Cow 
 
 . Whipped 
 
 Syrup, Clarified, for Jellies 
 
 , , with Isinglass 
 
 Tapioca Conserve 
 
 Custard 
 
 — - Gratine ■ 
 
 Jelly 
 
 , with Apples 
 
 Tartlets 
 
 , Orange 
 
 , to Ornament 
 
 Tipsy Bread 
 
 Cake 
 
 . Simple, lor Children 
 
 - , Imperial ■ , 
 
 Toffee 
 
 , Almond 
 
 Transparent Dessert Cakes 
 Treacle ToSee 
 Trifle, Apple 
 
 , Apricot 
 
 (en Surprise) 
 
 Trifle, Gooseberry 
 
 , Ground nice 
 
 , Swiss 
 
 Trifles, Savoury r.'r. 
 Vanilla and Currant Bombe 
 
 Cr^am 
 
 Custard 
 
 Ice Cream 
 
 Vanilla Sugar 
 Veal Custard 
 Velvet Cream 
 
 , made with Gelatine 
 
 Venetian Cream 
 
 Walnut Creams ' 
 Water Ices 
 Whipped Cream 
 
 , Lemon 
 
 Jelly 
 
 Syllabubs 
 
 Whips 
 
 White Wine Jelly 
 
 — , made .with Isin- 
 
 glass or Gelatine 
 Wine Custard 
 
 Froth, lor Dessert 
 
 Jelly, Claret 
 
 , Madeira 
 
 Winter Jelly, Mosaic 
 
 Snow 
 
 Yeomange r 
 
 Yorkshire Frumenty 
 Zabajone 
 
 , Iced 
 
 Artichoke Bottoms, Stewed 
 Artichokes (a la Barigoule) 
 
 (a I'Huile) 
 
 (a I'ltalienne) 
 
 (a la Lyonnaise) 
 
 (a la Poivrade) 
 
 (a la St. Cloud) 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 , Bordeaux Fashion 
 
 , Dried 
 
 , Franeaise 
 
 , Fried 
 
 , (a la Gouflfi) 
 
 , Jerusalem, Boiled 
 
 , , Fricasseed 
 
 . . Fried 
 
 , , in White Sauce 
 
 , , Mashed 
 
 , Stewed in Gravy 
 
 , Stuffed 
 
 Asparagus, Boiled 
 
 , Fricasseed 
 
 , French method 
 
 Heads as Peas 
 
 , Tinned 
 
 Tips 
 
 , with Eggs 
 
 , Hollandalse Sauce 
 
 , Parmesan 
 
 Aubergines (au Gratin) 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 Aubergines, Fried 
 
 , Stuffed 
 
 , with Poached Eggs 
 
 Beans, Broad, or Windsor (i la 
 Poulette) 
 
 , , Curried 
 
 . , Mashed 
 
 , , Stewed 
 
 , French, or Kidney 
 
 , (a la Franpaise) 
 
 , (a la Provenpale) 
 
 , , Boiled 
 
 , (Haricots Verts) 
 
 , , Stewed 
 
 , , with Gravy 
 
 , Haricot (a la Bretonne) 
 
 , , Boston, Baked 
 
 . , Dried 
 
 , . Plain, Boiled 
 
 , , Tomato Sauce 
 
 Beetroot, Baked 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 , Buttered 
 
 Custard 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 Broccoli, Boiled 
 Brussels Sprouts 
 
 , SautS 
 
 Buttered Mushrooms 
 Cabbage (a la Bourgeolse) 
 
 Cabbage (a la Lilloise) 
 
 , Creamed .- . - . . -.. 
 
 , Red, Stewed - • - 
 
 , Savoy aud Brussels Sprouts 
 
 , Stuffed 
 
 , with Rice 
 
 Cabbages, Boiled 
 
 Cardoons, Boiled 
 
 , Fried 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 Carrots (a la Crfeme) 
 
 (a la Flamande) 
 
 (a I'lndienne^ 
 
 • (a la Portugaise) 
 
 ■ (a la Reine) 
 
 . Boiled 
 
 , Braised 
 
 , FrlBd 
 
 In own Gravy 
 
 , Mashed 
 
 , Sliced and Glazed 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 , to Dress in German way 
 
 Casserole of Potatoes 
 Cauliflower (a la Bechamel) 
 
 (a la Frangaise) 
 
 (a la Mayonnaise) 
 
 (a la Polonaise) 
 
 (a la Sauce Blanche) 
 
 , Boiled 
 
1164 
 
 CASSBLL'S NEW DICTIONABY OP COOKERY. 
 
 Cauliflower, Curried (au Gratin) 
 
 Mushrooms (a la Casse-tout) 
 
 Potato Boulettes 
 
 (German fashion) 
 
 
 (k, la Crfeme) 
 
 Chij)* 
 
 ^ — , Moulded, with Sauce 
 
 
 and Macaroni 
 
 Croquettes 
 
 , with Stuffing 
 
 
 (Antidote to Poisonous 
 
 Flour 
 
 (au Gratin) 
 
 
 Fungi) 
 
 Klosse 
 
 , with Parmesan Cheese 
 
 
 (au Beurre) 
 
 , Sweet 
 
 Celery, Boiled 
 
 
 (au Gratin) 
 
 Mould 
 
 . Braised 
 
 
 Baked or Broiled 
 
 Ribbons 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 , 
 
 Edible and Poisonous, to 
 
 Rice 
 
 , to Dress 
 
 
 Distinguish 
 
 Rissoles 
 
 , Fry 
 
 , 
 
 Fried 
 
 Snow 
 
 , Preserve 
 
 
 Grilled 
 
 Sweet 
 
 , with-White Sauce 
 
 , 
 
 Stewed 
 
 Potatoes (4 la? Baregoule) 
 
 Chestnuts, Stewed 
 
 . 
 
 Stuffed 
 
 (4 la Creme) " 
 
 Colcannon 
 
 Mustard and Cress for Breakfast 
 
 (4 la Duchesse) 
 
 Cucumber, Boiled 
 
 Nettle 
 
 
 (a la Lyonnaise) 
 
 , Stuffed 
 
 Nettles, Spring, to Boil 
 
 (4 la Maitre d'Hotel) 
 
 (4 la Orfeme) 
 
 Okra, 
 
 or Gumbo 
 
 (4 la Froven(ale) 
 
 Cucumbers (a I'Espagnole) 
 
 Olio of Vegetables 
 
 au Lard 
 
 - — {i la Poulette) 
 
 Olives 
 
 
 , Baked 
 
 , Fried 
 
 Onion 
 
 
 
 Beignets of 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 
 and Eggs 
 
 
 Boiled 
 
 , , with Onions 
 
 Onions (a la Cr^me) 
 
 
 
 (Irish fashion) 
 
 , to Dress 
 
 
 and Cucumbers 
 
 
 
 In their jackets 
 
 and Onions 
 
 
 (au Gratin) 
 
 
 
 Broiled 
 
 Curry of Vegetables 
 
 
 Baked 
 
 
 Browned under a Roasting 
 
 Dal, or Dhal 
 
 
 How and Where to Keep 
 
 
 Joint 
 
 Dandelion, Stewed # 
 
 
 Plain, Boiled 
 
 — — 
 
 Choosing of 
 
 Egg Fruit, Stufled 
 
 
 Spanish, Baked 
 
 
 Cold, Fried in Slices 
 
 Plant, Fried 
 
 
 Stewed 
 
 
 , to Re-dress 
 
 Endive, Dressed 
 
 
 Stuffed 
 
 
 Curried 
 
 . , for Second Course 
 
 
 and Baked 
 
 
 en Salade 
 
 (French method) 
 
 
 with Grated Cheese (Ger- 
 
 
 Forced 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 
 man recipe) 
 
 
 
 for Pilgrims (Trapplst 
 
 Green Peas (i la Crfeme) 
 
 Parmentier Croquettes 
 
 
 recipe) 
 
 (a la Franfaise) 
 
 Parmesan and Cauliflower 
 
 
 Fried 
 
 , to Boll 
 
 Parsnips 
 
 
 
 (German method) 
 
 Greens (4 la Creme) 
 
 
 Boiled 
 
 
 
 In Butter 
 
 - — , Stewed 
 
 , 
 
 , Cold 
 
 ■ 
 
 Whole 
 
 , Turnip, Boiled 
 
 , 
 
 Browned under Eoast 
 
 
 In Cases 
 
 Haricot Beans 
 
 
 Meat 
 
 
 Mashed 
 
 , Australian 
 
 
 Fried 
 
 — — 
 
 and Browned 
 
 (&, la MaStre d'Hotel) 
 
 
 Mashed 
 
 
 
 , with Onions 
 
 to Boil or Stew 
 
 — -, 
 
 Stewed 
 
 
 Mock New, in Cream 
 
 , with Onions 
 
 Peas 
 
 
 
 
 Moulded with Parmesan 
 
 , Tomatoes 
 
 
 (4 la Franpalse) 
 
 
 
 New, BoUed 
 
 Kale, Scotch 
 
 
 Brose 
 
 
 , Stewed In Butter 
 
 , Sea, Boiled 
 
 
 Fricassee of 
 
 
 Preserved 
 
 , , Stewed in Gravy 
 
 , 
 
 Green 
 
 
 
 Rolled 
 
 Kidney Beans, White, Fricasseed 
 
 , 
 
 (a la Crfeme) 
 
 
 Sacked 
 
 Laver, to Dress 
 
 
 (4 la Paysanne) 
 
 
 
 Saut6 
 
 Leeks, Boiling of 
 
 , 
 
 . Boiled 
 
 
 Savoury 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 
 -^. (Dr. Kitchener's 
 
 
 Scalloped 
 
 , Welsh Porridge 
 
 
 recipe) 
 
 
 Sliced (German method) 
 
 Lettuce, Boiled 
 
 
 , Bottled 
 
 
 Sliced, with Parmesan 
 
 . Braised (au Jus) 
 
 
 ■ (French method) 
 
 
 Steamed 
 
 — in Salads 
 
 
 , Old, How to Cook 
 
 
 Stewed (4 la Fran^alse) 
 
 Puree 
 
 
 , Preserved 
 
 
 Storing of 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 , 
 
 , PurSe of 
 
 
 Stuffed 
 
 , , with Green Peas 
 
 , 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 
 Varieties of 
 
 , Stuffed 
 
 
 , , with Ham and 
 
 
 with Sauce 
 
 Mac^dolne of Vegetables 
 
 
 Lettuces 
 
 
 PIquante 
 
 Macedoines in Cases, with Aspara- 
 
 
 , with Cream Sauce 
 
 
 
 White Sauce 
 
 gus and Macaroni 
 
 
 Porridge 
 
 Pulse 
 
 Marshmallow 
 
 
 Stewed, and Lettuce 
 
 Racines (4 la Crfeme) 
 
 Morels in Cream 
 
 , 
 
 Tinned 
 
 (en Menu Droits) 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 Petlts 
 
 Pois Verts aux 
 
 Radish 
 
 Mushroom 
 
 
 Laitues 
 
 Drawing 
 
 Mushrooms (a la Bordelais) 
 
 Potato 
 
 Balls, Economical 
 
 
 Varieties of 
 
CLASSIFIED TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 1165 
 
 Radish, Wholesomeness ol the 
 
 Spinach, Plainly Dressed 
 
 Turnips, Young 
 
 Badlshes in White Sauce 
 
 
 Pur^e of, with Butter 
 
 
 , Stewed In Butter 
 
 Bamplon 
 
 
 to Serve 
 
 Vaoherln, for Sweet Creams 
 
 Eed Beet 
 
 
 with Cream 
 
 Vegetable Curry 
 
 Elbands, Potato 
 
 
 Eggs 
 
 
 Food 
 
 Elssoles, Potato 
 
 
 Gravy 
 
 
 Hachls 
 
 Boots, Ksculent 
 
 Swedes 
 
 
 Marrow 
 
 , Macfidoine of 
 
 Tomato (au Gratin) 
 
 
 . Cooking of 
 
 Salsify 
 
 Tomatoes and Macaroni 
 
 
 , Fried In Batter 
 
 (alaCrfeme) 
 
 
 Mushrooms 
 
 
 , Butter 
 
 , Boiled 
 
 
 Onions, Baked 
 
 
 . in White Sauce or 
 
 , , Plain 
 
 
 Bice 
 
 
 Gravy 
 
 , (Soyer's recipe) 
 
 
 (au Gratin) 
 
 
 , Stuffed 
 
 Croquettes 
 
 
 Baked 
 
 
 Marrows, Boiled 
 
 , Fried 
 
 
 
 Grilled 
 
 
 , Fried 
 
 in Salad or Aspic 
 
 
 Boast 
 
 
 , Hashed 
 
 , Scalloped 
 
 
 
 Scalloped 
 
 
 , Marinaded and Stewed 
 
 — , Stewed 
 
 __, 
 
 _Stewed 
 
 
 Sausages 
 
 . with Veloute 
 
 — ^^ 
 
 (Portuguese method) 
 
 Vegetables 
 
 , Melted Butter 
 
 
 Whole 
 
 
 Boiling of 
 
 Samphire 
 
 
 
 Stuffed 
 
 
 Chartreuse of 
 
 Saratoga Potatoes 
 
 Truffle Purge 
 
 
 Cooking of ^■ 
 
 Sauer Kraut 
 
 Truffles (a la Serviette) 
 
 
 Curry of ^^^^ 
 
 , to Cook 
 
 
 (a I'ltallenne) 
 
 
 Dried, for Julienne and 
 
 Savoy Cabbage 
 
 
 aux Champagne 
 
 
 Clear Soup's 
 
 (4 la Crfeme) 
 
 
 Bulsson of 
 
 
 Fresh, Treatment of 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 
 in Madeira 
 
 
 Fried, Marinade of 
 
 , Varieties of 
 
 
 Stewed in Champagne 
 
 
 Insects Cleared from 
 
 Scorzonera — — 
 
 
 to Prepare for Use 
 
 
 Keeping of 
 
 Scotch Kale 
 
 
 with Eggs 
 
 
 Months for Various 
 
 Scurvy Grass . 
 Sea Beet 
 
 Turnip 
 
 
 Preserved 
 
 
 Cups 
 
 , 
 
 by Drying 
 
 J— Kale 
 
 
 Badlshes, to Boil 
 
 
 Spring (German niethod) 
 
 . Boiled 
 
 
 Tops 
 
 
 Stew of 
 
 , Choosing of 
 
 Turnips 
 
 
 to Make Tender 
 
 , Stewed 
 
 
 (au Beurre) 
 
 Water-cress ■ 
 
 Pea 
 
 
 Boiled 
 
 
 Stewed 
 
 Seaweeds as Article of Diet 
 
 
 and Served with Sauce 
 
 
 Wholesomeness of 
 
 Shallot 
 
 
 Brown Purge of 
 
 White Beet, to Dress Leaves of 
 
 Sklrret 
 
 
 French 
 
 
 Kidney Beans 
 
 Sorrel 
 
 
 Fried 
 
 
 (& la Lyonnaise) 
 
 , Fried in Batter 
 
 
 Glaces 
 
 
 (i la Maltre 
 
 , Puree of 
 
 
 Glazed, with Gravy 
 
 
 d'H6tel) 
 
 , Stewed (& la Francalse) 
 
 
 , White or Brown 
 
 
 , Purge of 
 
 — -, , for Fricahdeaux, 
 
 
 Sauce 
 
 WlndsoriBeans ,(i la Poulette) 
 
 Boasts* etc. 
 
 
 in White Sauce 
 
 
 , Preserved in Tins 
 
 Spinach and Toast 
 , Boiled ,. 
 
 
 Large, Stuffed 
 Mashed 
 
 or Broad Beans 
 
 Winter Squash 
 
 , Dandelion Leaves Dressed 
 
 
 Purge of 
 
 Yam 
 
 
 like 
 
 
 Stewed (a la Franfaise) 
 
 Yams, 
 
 American 
 
 , Dressed 
 
 
 in Gravy 
 
 , 
 
 Boiled 
 
 , French mode of Dressing 
 
 
 White Purge of 
 
 Zucchettl Farcis 
 
 . Mould 
 
 
 , with White Sauce 
 
 
 
INDEX TO CLASSIFIED TABLE OF 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Gakes> Btnrs, Bbbad, and Biscuits 1125 
 
 Cebeals, Etc. 1127 
 
 Cold Meat and Scrap Cookeby 1128 
 
 GuKED AND Salted Meats . . 1130 
 
 Drinks, Cordials, and Beverages .1131 
 
 Entries and Made Dishes . 1133 
 
 Fish 1135 
 
 Forcemeats, Tinned and Pointed' Meats, SAtrsAGEsi ANi'GfALANTiNES 1138 
 
 Prittebs, Soutfles, and Pancakes 1140 
 
 Hoes d'CEuvres, Garnishes, and Savouries . . . . .1140 
 
 Invaijd and Infant Cookery . . . . . . .1142 
 
 Jams, Jellies, Preserved Fruits, and Fruit Dishes . . . 1142 
 
 Joints and Plain Meat 1144 
 
 Omelets, Eggs, and Cheese Dishes 1146 
 
 Pickles, Spices, Store Sauces, and Condiments .... 1147 
 
 Pies, Puddings, and Pastry 1149 
 
 Poultry and Game 1153 
 
 Salads ~ ' • • 1156 
 
 Sandwiches 1156 
 
 Sauces and Gravies . . . 1156 
 
 Soups (Potages, CoNSOMMiis, and Stocks) and Thickenings . . 1159 
 
 Sweets, Creams, Ices, Blancmanges, and Table Jellies . 1161 
 
 Vegetables • • • _> 1163 
 
Pkinted by 
 
 CASSBi,t'& Company, Limmjsd, La Belle Sauvage. 
 
 London, E.0.4 
 
For Reference 
 
 NOT TO BE TAKEN FROM THIS ROOM 
 
Y^^ 
 
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