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CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 
 
 924 089 480 226 
 
Cornell University 
 Library 
 
 The original of tiiis book is in 
 tine Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924089480226 
 
/ Go A' Marketing 
 
I Go A- 
 
 By 
 HENRIETTA SOWLE 
 
 ("HENRIETTE") 
 
 BOSTON ■ LITTLE, BROWN 
 AND COMPANY • MDCCCC 
 
Copyright, igoo, by Little, 
 Brown, and Company. 
 
 UNIVERSITY PRESS • JOHN WILSON 
 AND SON • CAMBRIDGE, u. 9. il. 
 
TO 
 MR. EDWARD H. CLEMENT 
 
Author^s Note 
 
 BEFORE dipping into this book very 
 far, reader (pray note that I cozen you 
 with neither "gentle" nor "dear"), 
 allow me to suggest that you familiarize your- 
 self with the spirit of Emerson, who has al- 
 lowed that the truly consistent person changes 
 his mind whenever occasion offers. Then you 
 will be in a frame of mind to acknowledge 
 that I have but exercised my privilege if you 
 chance upon passages that seem to put me in 
 a self-contradictory position. I hold to one 
 opinion till new or increased light shows me 
 I would do well to change, no longer. 
 
 Is it necessary, I wonder, to say that this 
 compilation of persiflage and cookery is not 
 intended to be the whole culinary library of 
 any housekeeper ? In case it may be believed 
 that I have any such inflated idea of its value. 
 
viii AUTHOR'S NOTE 
 
 let me say at once that any housekeeper who 
 secures this book, by buying or by borrowing, 
 will want just as many of the old-line " cook- 
 books " at hand as if she had never heard of 
 it. Its mission is a supplementary one. 
 It is for those dark and dreary days when the 
 housekeeper "wants something good," but can- 
 not say what. It suggests. Therein is all of 
 beauty and use, for "beauty is truth, truth 
 beauty, that is all ye know and all ye need 
 to know." 
 
 Furthermore, it is for the housekeeper who 
 knows by experience, or intuition, how to 
 lay a fire, and how to broil a steak. With 
 kindergarten methods it does not deal — it 
 rather takes it for granted that it will fall into 
 the hands of those who have been graduated 
 from kindergarten cookery. Neither does it 
 attempt to set forth the duties of butlers or of 
 housemaids. It goes on the principle rather 
 that the housekeeper who supports these fac- 
 totums knows what their duties should be. 
 
AUTHOR'S NOTE ix 
 
 And is there any necessity for those who can- 
 not attain to such appointments burdening 
 their minds with knowledge never to be used ? 
 Think on all these things omitted when you 
 are getting inspiration from this slender 
 source, and be thankful that I have shown 
 so much consideration for you. 
 
 " Read my little fable : 
 
 He that runs may read. 
 Most can raise the flowers now. 
 For all have got the seed." 
 
/ Go A 'Marketing 
 
 JANUARY 
 
 " Still Beauty must be stealing hearts. 
 And kna'very stealing purses ; 
 Still cooks must live by making tarts 
 And ivits by making 'verses." 
 
 SOME fine day, perchance, I shall to mar- 
 ket go and find there what all house- 
 keepers are "a-sighin' and a-cryin' for" 
 — namely a new edible ; and be it fish, flesh, 
 or fowl, I shall, with all haste, make you ac- 
 quainted with its nature, and with the name 
 of the market-man who introduces the boon ; 
 and methinks that nothing short of canoniza- 
 tion should reward the man, or woman, who 
 finds " something new under the sun." 
 
 But till that blessed day of discovery really 
 arrives I must be content with telling you of 
 ways that may be new and tricks that are 
 worth trying for the serving of viands which 
 have constituted human nature's daily food 
 since the world began. Unless, however, I 
 can bring to your minds by my suggestions a 
 state of contentment which will enable you to 
 await that hour of revealment with patience 
 
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 almost amounting to indifference, my duty is 
 but half done. 
 Sausages So here goes for a beginning. Don't you 
 
 ever feel quite dissatisfied with the ordinary, 
 yes and the extraordinary, sausages of com- 
 merce ? Of course you do. No need to ask. 
 They are flat, there's no gainsaying it. But 
 it's the easiest thing in the world to have 
 home-made sausages seasoned to a point that 
 will make them things of gastronomical joy. 
 There must be equal quantities of lean and 
 fat fresh pork finely minced ; then to a pound 
 of this meat add one-quarter of an ounce of 
 salt, more or less, one-eighth of an ounce of 
 good business-like pepper, more or less, and 
 powdered sage ad lib. The use of season- 
 ing, you see, is not bound by any hard and 
 fast rules; in cases of this kind a due regard 
 must be shown the whims and fancies of the 
 palates to be pleased. Once you have added 
 the proper amount of seasoning, add enough 
 well beaten egg to allow of the mixture being 
 moulded to any desired shape, and fried to 
 a nice brown. And there you have a dish 
 fit to put before a king. If the simplicity 
 and homeliness of it somewhat upsets your 
 equilibrium, why call it saucisses grillees; 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 they '11 taste just as well. They can be served 
 either upon rounds of toasted bread or upon 
 a foundation of cold boiled potatoes which 
 have been diced and heated in cream. 
 
 If you are having them for luncheon then 
 serve them on toast, but with the addition of 
 a tomato puree. No need to tell how to make 
 that ; it 's an old story. 
 
 Another old story, altogetheftoo old, is the Broiled Pork 
 way most housekeepers have of frying pork pj°^^„f 
 chops. They should never be fried. The Sauce 
 only respectable way is to broil them decently 
 and in order over a hot bed of coals. In that 
 way what little juice they contain will be re- 
 tained. But even then they will be so dry 
 that you must supplement them with some- 
 thing, — say a sauce made of half a pint of 
 good clear stock, highly seasoned, and having 
 in it a tablespoonfiil of chopped pickled pep- 
 pers and some sliced gherkins, with the juice 
 of a lemon added. 
 
 Or, you can serve with them apple cro- Apple 
 quettes, made by stewing the apples in a little ™'"^ 
 butter, with a tiny bit of sugar; when quite 
 cold, with the aid of a few bread-crumbs, shape 
 the apple into croquettes, roll them in crumbs 
 and beaten egg and fry. Arrange the cro- 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 quettes, which must be not more than an inch 
 in diameter, with the chops upon a platter 
 in any fanciful way that suggests itself to you, 
 and the condition of the platter at the end of 
 the meal will tell you whether or not the ex- 
 periment was worth the trying. 
 Roasted Pork These croquettes will win favor for them- 
 with Onion selves if you will try serving them some time 
 with a loin of fresh pork, roasted. You will 
 want to serve with them only the simplest kind 
 of clear gravy. But you may prefer to serve 
 the roasted loin of pork on steamed rice gar- 
 nished with button onions, which have been 
 boiled till fairly tender and then fried in butter 
 to a light brown. If this is your preference, 
 make a sauce by frying in two gills of oil, 
 half a pound of minced onion, a pinch of pars- 
 ley leaves, a crushed clove of garlic and a bay 
 leaf, with salt and' pepper; dilute with a pint 
 of good stock, preferably white ; strain and 
 finish by adding the juice of a lemon and an 
 ounce of fresh butter. By the way, when 
 fresh pork is to be roasted, it is an excellent 
 plan to rub salt well into it about twenty-four 
 hours before cooking. If you slice and serve 
 it cold you will readily see the wisdom of giv- 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 ing the salt a chance to work its way through 
 and season the whole loin. 
 
 When a ham is to be roasted, and small "oasted 
 hams do make excellent roasts, a ham of about 
 five pounds' weight should be skinned and 
 boiled in enough water to cover it; in this 
 water you will want to put, just for variety's 
 sake, a carrot, an onion, three bay-leaves, three 
 cloves, one clove of garlic, and six pepper- 
 corns. Boil very gently for about one hour ; 
 then remove from the fire, drain it well, and 
 coat it with a paste of oil and flour. Be sure 
 that it is well covered with the paste to pre- 
 vent the escape of the juice, put into the oven 
 and roast for about two hours. 
 
 Serve it with a sauce made of a sufficient Cider Sauce 
 quantity of the stock, to which you have 
 added half its amount of cider, and there you 
 behold what is commonly known as cham- 
 pagne sauce. But, bless you, it 's very doubt- 
 ful if champagne is often used, as after it is 
 heated it would be a sensitive palate indeed 
 that could tell whether champagne or cider 
 were employed. 
 
 Just a hint right here of what may be done 
 with bits of cold ham, for we may never be 
 on this subject again. Have some thin slices 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 of toasted white bread, spread well with butter 
 and a trifle of mustard, then equal parts of 
 grated cheese and minced ham, and some cay- 
 enne pepper. Send to the oven for a few 
 minutes, or until the cheese is dissolved, and 
 serve immediately. Say what you will, it is a 
 delectable dish, this ham toast, and whether 
 you allow for it in a prearranged luncheon or 
 whether it is concocted on the impulse of the 
 moment, when the necessity suddenly arises 
 for a dish of the kind, trust me, whoever par- 
 takes of it will vow that it " relishes of wit 
 and invention." 
 Broiled Perhaps this batch of suggestions would be 
 Pigs' Feet incomplete with no reference in it to the cook- 
 ing of pigs' feet, and yet there 's very little 
 variety in the methods of preparing them. 
 The simplest is the best, it seems to me, and 
 that is dipping them in melted butter, then in 
 bread-crumbs, and broiling over a moderate 
 fire. A piquant sauce is by long odds the 
 sauce par excellence to be served with them. 
 Some chefs de cuisine prepare them elabo- 
 rately with truffles, to my mind, however, 
 there's an incongruity in a combination of 
 pork and truffles. But of course it 's only a 
 matter of taste, and it is more than possible 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 that there will be some who read this and de- 
 plore my poor taste in devoting so much space 
 to ways and means of cooking pork. 
 
 Well, to such I offer the suggestion that 
 they call it a chapter on porcine potentials, 
 and pass on. 
 
 By all means let us be economical — truly 
 economical. But let us never make the griev- 
 ous but common mistake of thinking that the 
 buying of cheap, downright cheap food is econ- 
 omy. To commit such an error in judgment 
 is to lay the cornerstone of more than one 
 kind of unhappiness. But you know that, too. 
 And with so many inexpensive viands as there 
 are to be had, susceptible as they are of so 
 many ways of serving, one can, with the exer- 
 cise of a little juc^ment in such matters, have 
 the appearance of "living high" when in 
 reality one is laying up money out of the 
 weekly table allowance, if one has such an in- 
 stitution in one's family. For myself, I have 
 a great respect for a housekeeper who keeps 
 within her allowance week in and week out, 
 year after year. But for the one who cuts 
 loose occasionally from all allowance limits 
 
8 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 S 
 
 when there is a " good thing up " I have the 
 sincerest admiration and sympathy. It is 
 with such a one that I always feel tempted to 
 outstay my welcome if I get the shadow of a 
 chance to be so ill bred. Such an ignoring 
 of trammels of the financial sort is an indica- 
 tion of truancy in other matters now and 
 then that rather appeals to me, to be very 
 honest about it. But I don't recommend it 
 to you or to any one. Perhaps it has n't a 
 place here, but since it is written it shall 
 stand, labelled En parenthese. 
 
 And we will talk of codfish — fresh codfish. 
 This is a species of the gadus family that is 
 eligible for duty in a family of any class — 
 high, low, or middle. It may follow the soup 
 at an unlimited course dinner and not be out 
 of its element or it may form the piece de 
 r'esistance, or in fact the only piece of any 
 kind at a dinner of another sort and still be 
 quite at home. 
 
 fresh Now let us get to business. Suppose that 
 Codfish, , ° . • 1 ^^ , . 
 
 Delmonico ^ome day you have a pipmg hot oven that is 
 
 Style as Idle as you would like to be and that you 
 
 have also a fresh codfish in the house split 
 
 with the backbone removed for broiling. 
 
 Let me suggest that you dry it well, put it in 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 a buttered baking pan, skin side down, coat it 
 with melted butter, sprinkle it with salt, pep- 
 per, lemon juice, chopped parsley and chopped 
 onion. Then bestrew it with bread crumbs 
 moistened in melted butter and set into the 
 oven to brown. Get it out as gracefully as 
 possible when it is done, flip a little melted 
 butter and lemon juice over it and serve. 
 Or, if you can't break away from tradition 
 and have sworn to have a broiled fish broiled 
 then I am sure that you do keep within your 
 allowance for the table and will treat the fish 
 this way : You will dry it well with a cloth, 
 then brush it with melted butter, sprinkle salt 
 and a little pepper, put it on the buttered 
 bars of the broiler, and let the fire do the rest. 
 Then after it is dished, sprinkle it with per- Broiled Fresh 
 haps a few capers, surround it with broiled 
 thin slices of bacon, and be on the alert to 
 catch the first expression that flits over the 
 face of the one who furnishes you with the 
 aforesaid table allowance to see if all is well 
 with the fish and consequently with you. 
 Am I right? 
 
 But I would be willing to wager the price Baked Fresh 
 of a whole "catch" of codfish that I can tell ^'"'■''** 
 you of a bran new way to bake one. Read 
 
lo I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 and see for yourself. Have the size thai 
 seems to find most favor in your family and 
 fill it with a forcemeat made by mincing tc 
 paste a pound of raw codfish. Add to il 
 half a pint of cream that has been just boiled 
 that 's all, and thickened with two eggs, 
 Season with salt, a chopped onion — chopped 
 so finely that it is of a paste consistency and 
 fill the fish with the mixture. For peppei 
 let me suggest that you use paprika in prefer- 
 ence to any other brand. Cook till the fish 
 is done and serve with any rich sauce thai 
 appeals to you. 
 
 Any or all of the foregoing recipes may bs 
 applied to haddock, as you probably suspecl 
 — if you know anything at all about fish. 
 
 You don't know, you housekeepers ol 
 America what a jolly good reputation you 've 
 got to Hve up to unless you happen to hav£ 
 read G. W. Steevens's clever book, "The 
 Land of the Dollar," in which he says of oui 
 national breakfasts: "First you have fruit — 
 wonderful pears that look like green stones 
 and taste like the Tree of Life. Then mush 
 so they call oatmeal porridge, or wheatmea 
 
I GO A-MARKETING n 
 
 porridge or hominy porridge, a noble food 
 with the nectarous American cream. Then 
 fishes and meats, sausages, and bacon and eggs. 
 Then strange farinaceous foods which you mar- 
 vel to find yourself swallowing with avid gust 
 — graham bread, soda biscuits, buckwheat or 
 griddle cakes with butter and maple treacle. 
 It is magnificent; but it is indigestion. All 
 the same, I look forward to the day when 
 America shall produce an invention that will 
 let me go across the Atlantic every morning 
 for breakfast. I shall take a season ticket." 
 
 Now let my humble pen chip in two or 
 three things that shall help you to live up to 
 this estimate of you. 
 
 Suppose you are having a dish of fried Sweet Corn 
 eggs after a manner described later on in this '^"'"^ 
 book. Go still further, and see fit to have 
 some croquettes also. Do you know just 
 what they should be? If in doubt let them 
 be of canned sweet corn. Mix with half a 
 can of the corn two-thirds of its quantity of 
 mashed potatoes, salt and a good generous bit 
 of melted butter. Then form into croquettes, 
 dip in beaten egg and crumbs and fry to a 
 fine color in hot fat. 
 
 Or, as second choice, you might like hash 
 
12 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 Sublimated instead of the eggs fried. Now, look here ; 
 you know me well enough by this time, I 
 hope, to believe that when I suggest hash it is 
 none of the commonplace minces that you 
 shun at the table of your very best friend. 
 Of what I have to say in the line of hash you 
 won't be overdoing the thing if you refer to 
 it for evermore as a " sublimated hash." See 
 for yourself: Chop an onion and fry it in a 
 good bit of butter till it is tender and likewise 
 brown. Then put into the butter two cup- 
 fuls of diced cold mutton, diced not chopped, 
 and one cupfiil of diced cold boiled potatoes. 
 Pepper and salt to your fancy. Then put in 
 four tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce and have 
 ready some chopped parsley for sprinkling 
 over the dish when it is served. 
 
 Rice Muffins You might for a flyer try rice muffins 
 with this hash. Have a cup of flour and 
 sifted through it two heaping teaspoonfuls of 
 baking powder. Add to it a tablespoonful 
 of sugar, a saltspoonful of salt, and pass 
 this through a sieve. Have three eggs well 
 beaten in a cup of milk with half a cup of 
 melted butter and stir into the flour. When 
 it is perfectly smooth add to it two cupfuls of 
 cold boiled or steamed rice. Turn into 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 13 
 
 small pans and bake in a hot oven. By grat- 
 ing in a little nutmeg to these muffins you 
 will have a delicious dish for luncheon. 
 
 NoWj our friend Steevens spoke of griddle Rhode island 
 cakes and buckwheat cakes. Of these you •^o*""i'««''« 
 know all that is necessary for any housekeeper 
 to know. But I '11 wager a good sum that 
 Rhode Island meal is an unknown quantity 
 to you. Make its acquaintance then as soon 
 as possible and set about having Rhode Island 
 johnnycakes often. You will want nothing 
 but the meal, some milk and salt. Have 
 them considerably thinner than ordinary flour 
 griddle cakes and fry in a little fat on a hot 
 griddle so that the edges are crisp and tooth- 
 some. If you want to bake them have a cup 
 of meal to a cup and one-half of milk with 
 a pinch of salt, and bake in gem pans till 
 brown. Instead of having butter with either 
 the fried or baked specimens of this johnny- 
 cake try some of our " nectarous cream." Is 
 it a go ? 
 
 Now and then, throughout this book, the 
 directions for making a salad are brought in 
 incidentally to the main topic of discourse. 
 
14 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 Nowhere are they treated as the piece de re- 
 sistance, so to speak, of a chapter. And here 
 are not many — only a few that go especially 
 well in cold weather, when to have any variety 
 at all in salads incurs a considerable outlay of 
 rumination. Just a little inventive faculty and 
 a firm purpose to have your table superior, 
 even in details, to that of your dearest enemy, 
 and you can with materials on hand in January 
 have salads that give the eternal chicken and 
 lobster with mayonnaise the go-by, — though, 
 I fear me, the snubbing in the near future 
 will come from the lobster itself. But that 's 
 not to be discussed at just this minute. 
 Red Cabbage Before this you have probably made red 
 cabbage salad with a French dressing and 
 with a spread of mayonnaise over it, so that 
 you think you know it all, but have you tried 
 adding to it some celery ? This is the way it 
 is done. All the coarse outside leaves of the 
 cabbage are removed and the inside is finely 
 shredded. Then the best stalks of a head of 
 celery are cut into inch pieces and put into 
 the salad bowl, a layer of celery, then one of 
 the cabbage, and so on, heaping a bit in the 
 centre. Garnish with the fresh green leaves 
 of the celery; pour a dressing, made of a 
 
 Salad 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 15 
 
 beaten egg, three tablespoonfuls of oil, two of 
 vinegar, a saltspoon of salt, a dash of cay- 
 enne, and a suspicion of mustard, over all, 
 and let stand for half an hour in a cool place 
 before serving. For luncheon, when you are 
 having croquettes of left-over ham bits, or of 
 cold tongue scraps, this goes very near to 
 being what would tempt any sane person to 
 ask for a second helping. 
 
 Then there is a way to make an onion salad, Spanish 
 that sets you to wondering why you never "'"" 
 heard of it before. Have the Spanish onions, 
 and soak them four or five hours, after peel- 
 ing, in cold water, changing the water every 
 hour, or even oftener, if your time is n't too 
 precious. Then slice and chop them, but 
 not to the mussy stage. Freeze them, not 
 too hard, but so they will be crisp and cold. 
 Meanwhile, prepare a dressing of two-thirds 
 oil to one-third vinegar, with salt and pep- 
 per to taste, and pour over them. Serve 
 immediately. But don't forget the garnish, 
 which naturally suggests itself — parsley, to 
 be sure, and plenty of it. With this salad? 
 Well, we will suppose it is making its debut 
 in your household at an after-theatre snack. 
 So have with it toasted water crackers, a bit 
 
i6 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 of Swiss cheese, a smoked herring or two. 
 And beer, of course. 
 Sardine Now, don't skip what is going down here 
 ^'^"'' about a sardine salad — you will miss it if you 
 do. I know you will say you would n't fancy 
 the oil in which they are preserved in a salad, 
 and I can see that rather superior curl your 
 lip takes on as you say it. But soak them for 
 an hour in vinegar, then remove the skin from 
 them and arrange in a circle on your salad 
 dish. In the centre heap pitted and quar- 
 tered olives. Make a dressing of the strained 
 juice of a lemon mixed with a tablespoonful 
 of olive oil, a bit of salt and of paprika, and 
 over all a sprinkling of capers. Then, take 
 a taste of it when your turn comes, and be 
 sorry you were inclined to pass by it. 
 Brussels Now and then, you know, we do have a 
 ''sTad ^^^ Brussels sprouts left over from the day 
 before's dinner, and at the price usually asked 
 we couldn't throw them away, and yet there 
 weren't enough to pay for reheating. So, in 
 order to be forehanded, and also to have 
 the "makings" of a delicious salad in the 
 house, get double the quantity you usually 
 have the next time you are getting them, and 
 be glad for every one that is left over, for the 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 17 
 
 next day you will sprinkle a few drops of 
 lemon juice over them, coat them with a 
 mayonnaise, sprinkle with capers and sliced 
 olives, and serve very cold. At a simple little 
 dinner, where you are having " left-overs " 
 daintily fixed up, this salad works in beau- 
 tifully, or if you are giving a dinner that is as 
 elaborate as anything you ever turn out, count 
 on this salad to be one of the features of your 
 dinner, 
 
 A delicious offering to put before your Oyster Salad 
 household some night is a salad of oysters. 
 Have a quart of them, say, drain and wipe 
 them well from their own liquor. Boil a cup 
 of vinegar, and season it while boiling with 
 salt and white pepper. Pour it over the oy- 
 sters, and let them stand for two hours or so. 
 Then drain them pretty dry, and lay on a bed 
 of chopped celery in the salad bowl. If the 
 oysters are very large cut in halves or quar- 
 ters. Have a layer of chopped celery on top 
 of the oysters, and coat thickly with mayon- 
 naise. Be sure, however, that the oysters are 
 perfectly cold before adding to the celery. 
 Garnish with a few oyster crabs, pickled at 
 the same time the oysters were pickled, and 
 some sliced olives. To be very, very extrava- 
 
i8 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 gant in making this salad, if you so want to 
 be for the purpose of impressing some one, 
 add to it a few sliced truffles that have been 
 soaked in white wine for an hour or two. 
 Nut Salad For some occasions, at this season of the 
 year, a nut salad just fills the bill as nothing 
 else can. Choose almost any kind of nuts, 
 but preferably let them be mainly English 
 walnuts. Have them in halves, or in quar- 
 ters, and squeeze lemon juice over them fifteen 
 minutes before dressing. Then add to them 
 half their quantity of quartered olives, some 
 very tender little celery leaves, and a thin 
 mask of mayonnaise. Really, when you have 
 turned out this salad, for a party supper, say, 
 you need give yourselves very little uneasiness 
 as to how the other viands will set with your 
 guests. Such a salad is calculated to redeem 
 a good many faults in other directions. 
 Fruit Salad Just a word about a sweet salad, and this 
 screed is ended. Oranges. It shall be of 
 oranges — big, luscious, juicy, seedless oranges, 
 that are at their height for the next two months 
 or more. These you slice, after peeling, as 
 you would an apple. Put a layer of them in 
 a bowl, sprinkle with powdered sugar and a 
 few drops of orange curacoa. Then another 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 19 
 
 layer of oranges, another of sugar, another 
 fall of cura9oa, and so on till the dish is full. 
 Then, if there are half a dozen oranges used, 
 pour over them about half a gill of brandy, 
 either the plain brandy or apricot brandy. 
 The latter, I find, is possessed of a mysterious 
 flavor that, when added to an orange salad, 
 just sets people to wondering why it is they 
 have to go away from home to find such 
 delights. 
 
FEBRUARY 
 
 " To sing the same tune, as the saying is, is 
 in everything cloying and offensive; but men 
 are generally pleased ivith 'variety." 
 
 o 
 
 NCE upon a time, one of the resource- 
 less sort of housekeepers said to me 
 that she was never quite so stumped 
 as when she felt the economical burden laid 
 upon her to utilize lamb or mutton "left- 
 overs." Now, this has been quite the oppo- 
 site of my experience. In fact, I wouldn't 
 acknowledge that I found cold lamb a facer, 
 anyway. 
 Roast Lamb Suppose we talk of a leg of lamb roasted in 
 
 """ sZ7e *^^® ^^y • ^^^ ^°"^ neatly removed, the cavity 
 filled with a mushroom stuffing, then roasted 
 in a hot oven and served with caper sauce 
 and currant jelly. To be sure I know you 
 would as soon have pledged yourself to break 
 one of the commandments, as to serve caper 
 sauce with roasted lamb, if I had not tempted 
 you. But you will do it, now that the sug- 
 gestion has entered your consciousness of gas- 
 tronomical beauties. 
 
 Or, if, in the first blush, it does n't appeal 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 21 
 
 to you, there 's this way of roasting lamb that Roast Lamb 
 
 with ■ 
 PurSe 
 
 I dare say is new to you. First, make an ""** ^""'" 
 
 onion puree, by mincing one quart of onions 
 and boiling them till tender. Drain very dry, 
 put them in a saucepan with two ounces of 
 butter; season with salt and pepper; let them 
 simmer for ten or fifteen minutes, but don't 
 let them brown. Then add to them half a 
 pint of cream, and press all through a sieve, 
 when serving as sauce. 
 
 Can you stand another novelty ? It 's this. 
 Put the lamb in the roasting-pan, and just a Roast Lamb 
 half hour before you think it is to be done. Macaroni 
 take it out and cover the bottom of the pan 
 with boiled macaroni. Lay the lamb on this, 
 and prick it all over that the juice may run 
 over the macaroni. Moisten the macaroni 
 with a little stock, too, if it threatens to get 
 too dry or too brown. When the lamb is 
 roasted take it out, heap the macaroni on a 
 dish, pour a little tomato sauce over it, sprin- 
 kle with Parmesan and send to table. Have 
 a little tomato, or any other sauce that pleases 
 you, with the lamb, if you feel that you must 
 have a sauce. 
 
 Now, for the second day — no, the third 
 day, rather. Skip a day before dishing a re- 
 
22 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 Broiled Lamb heating of the lamb. Then get some good 
 Slices g]jj.gg from the joint, even as to size and thick- 
 ness, and lay them for an hour in a dressing 
 of two tablespoonfuls of oil, one of Tarragon 
 vinegar, with salt and pepper. Take them 
 out of the dressing, dip in bread crumbs, broil 
 over a hot fire, and serve with a tartar sauce, 
 or, if you like, with some of the onion puree, 
 if any was left. 
 Fried Lamb ^^ 7°" ^^^^ chutney, and of course you do, 
 with have some neat slices of cold lamb spread 
 Chutney ^^^^ ^j^j^ palate-tickler, roll each slice up, coat 
 with crumbs, and fry in boiling fat till brown. 
 Skewer the rolled slices to keep them in shape. 
 When serving, sprinkle with a few drops of 
 lemon juice. It will be a question with you, 
 probably, which of these two ways of reheat- 
 ing is better. But that 's the sort of recipes 
 with which to load your intelligence, so don't 
 complain. 
 Lamb Slices Can you digest another warmed-over dish 
 with Onions ^f i^mb ? This time have the slices thick 
 
 and mash- i i i • 
 
 rooms rather than thm, and put them in a stewpan 
 with enough sherry wine to cover them. Cover 
 closely, and let heat slowly while you are toss- 
 ing together, in a little butter, some minced 
 boiled onion and button mushrooms. Color 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 23 
 
 slightly, and moisten with a little rich stock. 
 Take up the slices of lamb, arrange in a circle 
 on a dish, fill the centre with the onions and 
 mushrooms, pour the wine over all, and take 
 the trick. It 's yours. In case you don't 
 like as much wine as is required to cover the 
 lamb, use half wine and half water, and the 
 juice of a lemon. 
 
 If you want to try the reheating of the f <""* *'"'^* 
 lamb in the chafing dish, have it sliced as '^^^ 
 neatly as possible, and make ready in the chaf- 
 ing dish a sauce of one wineglass of port wine, 
 half a pint of good stock, thickened, a tea- 
 spoonful of walnut ketchup, the same of 
 French mustard, and a pinch of salt. When 
 this is hot put in the lamb, and serve as soon 
 as heated through. 
 
 If with any of the foregoing recipes you 
 think you would fancy a border of rice, have 
 it, by all means. But have plenty of butter 
 in the water in which the rice is boiled ; or if 
 it is steamed, have it moistened well with but- 
 ter just the same. 
 
 You might fancy this rice border with lamb Lamb 
 croquettes. These, you know, are made by Croquettes 
 having the lamb chopped finely, and added to 
 it half its quantity of chopped mushrooms. 
 
24 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 Moisten with a little tomato sauce, shape and 
 fry. 
 Lamb Salad Surely you will not take offence if I assume, 
 at this stage of the game, that you are edu- 
 cated up to a point where you can appreciate 
 the delights that centre in a lamb salad. You 
 dice the lamb, having it free of all fat and sinew. 
 Then put a layer of it in the bottom of the 
 salad bowl. Have a dressing of oil, vinegar, 
 pepper, and salt, with a bit of French mus- 
 tard in it, at hand, and with this sprinkle the 
 lamb. Bestrew it, too, with a chopped anchovy 
 or two, or more, if you are fond of anchovies. 
 Then put in a layer of cold boiled potatoes, 
 diced — more dressing; another stratum of 
 lamb, and so on till the dish is full, having it 
 mound-shaped. Garnish with sliced gherkins 
 and capers, and let it go at that. 
 
 I would that fewer nursery rhymers had 
 taken trips to market for their text when their 
 pens took to turning out jingles; for good- 
 ness knows that what with " To market, to 
 market to buy a fat pig," and " To market, 
 to market, all on a market day," keeping up 
 a continuous jig-like theme in my mind, to 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 25 
 
 say nothing of the insistent interruptions by 
 the " little pig that went to market " I am 
 well-nigh distracted when I try to get dry-as- 
 dust facts from the marketman anent common- 
 place eatables. To be sure, if I go in search 
 of frogs' legs, say, and the story of the frog 
 who went a-wooing recurs to my mind three 
 or four times in a minute, it seems quite ap- 
 propriate and does n't interfere in the least 
 with my driving' a pretty sharp bargain with 
 the fish-dealer. But, so far as I know, no 
 poet or writer of assonance has taken it into 
 his head to sing a song of livers, kidneys, and 
 such like edibles of which I am telling you 
 herein, and no wonder, you may say, if I don't 
 succeed in making my story fairly interesting, 
 as well as appetizing — though from the na- 
 ture of it if it is one it must be the other. 
 
 Everybody knows, I fancy, that when one Kidneys en 
 has cut off the skin of some lambs' kidneys, ^'■<"'*e"e 
 and then cut the kidneys into quarter-inch- 
 thick slices, seasoned them with salt and pep- 
 per, dipped them in oil, and then threaded 
 them on skewers with alternating slices of 
 bacon a brochette of kidneys is well under 
 way. To complete the operation they are 
 dipped into oil, then into bread-crumbs and 
 
26 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 broiled over a slow fire. In serving there's 
 no reason in the world why one should not 
 indulge one's fancy for any simple sauce that 
 will help the kidneys to tickle one's palate. 
 Good as this dish is, I must confess I like 
 it better when chickens' livers are substi- 
 tuted for the kidneys. By the way, do you 
 know that every up-to-date marketman has 
 them all skewered, and all that you have to 
 do is to add the seasoning and see to the 
 broiling ? 
 Fried Another really delightful way of serving 
 V^A* ""* ^^'^bs' kidneys is to prepare in a frying-pan a 
 tablespoonful of chopped onions, a small 
 chopped shallot, a clove of garlic and as many 
 fresh mushrooms as you feel like buying, with 
 salt and pepper to taste, and an ounce or so 
 of butter ; don't let the vegetables color at all, 
 and perhaps the best way to avoid this is to 
 add a gill or so of any kind of wine and the 
 same of cream. Let this sauce mull a while 
 on the back of the range, while you broil the 
 number of kidneys desired, after having 
 skinned and split each one in two lengthwise. 
 Dish and pour over them the sauce, removing 
 from it the garlic. If you Ve never heard 
 of this way for preparing kidneys, it seems 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 27 
 
 to me that you should be very grateful to me 
 for calling your attention to it. 
 
 And may your gratitude be re-enforced 
 after you have tried cooking veal kidneys in ^'"ce'' 
 this fashion: Mince three very small ones, 
 after removing all the fat and fibrous parts, 
 and fry them in butter over a hot fire. Don't 
 let them get wizzled up, but just done to a 
 turn, then take from the frying-pan and add 
 to the butter in which they were fried some 
 tomato sauce highly seasoned, half a can of 
 mushrooms, some lemon juice, and chopped 
 parsley ; pour over the kidneys and even if 
 you serve them in just this manner they will 
 prove a great success ; but should you wish to 
 make it a dish to linger in one's memory, then 
 garnish it with macaroni croquettes. Ever 
 make them ? Well, boil a pound of macaroni Macaroni 
 in salted water for fifteen minutes. Then drain '^'■''^"ettes 
 and cut it into quarter-inch lengths ; put back 
 into the saucepan with a little grated cheese, a 
 little salt, cayenne pepper and a gill of cream. 
 Let it get perfectly cold, then mould into 
 croquettes, either cylinder-shaped or any other 
 form, only have them very small; dip in egg 
 and bread-crumbs and fry a pretty brown. 
 
28 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 These macaroni croquettes, by the way, 
 make a suitable garnish for any number of 
 dishes ; try them with veal cutlets some time, 
 or with thin, dainty slices of ham broiled for 
 luncheon, and you '11 get more than your 
 labor for your pains. 
 Fried Calf's If you are thinking to have liver, then my 
 '■'"^'' advice to you is to get if possible only that 
 of a calf. To buy that of an older "beef 
 critter" is so often a waste of time and 
 money that it 's just as well to forego buying 
 it altogether — it is so apt to have too much 
 flavor, so to speak, or be tough or stringy, 
 and wholly unsatisfactory. But get a calf's 
 liver, and something of a treat is in store for 
 you, whether you fry it with bacon or pre- 
 pare it in this way : Cut up finely three or 
 four good-sized white onions and fry them in 
 butter till of a golden brown. Drain the 
 butter off and cover the onions with white 
 stock ; let cook for half an hour, then moistenl 
 with more stock and season with pepper, salt, 
 chopped parsley, and just a suspicion of lemon 
 juice. Fry the slices of liver, which should 
 not be over half an inch in thickness, in 
 enough butter to keep them from harden- 
 ing ; drain off the butter and add the above 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 29 
 
 sauce ; let it boil up once, then serve, and 
 garnish with slices of lemon. Perhaps this is 
 a bit heavy for a breakfast dish — to my 
 mind it is decidedly so — while for luncheon, 
 where one is having a salad of watercress, or 
 for an entree at dinner it seems to be quite 
 in its rightful place. 
 
 If the liver is to be served for breakfast, 
 then it is a good idea to roll the slices in a 
 little flour, sprinkle melted butter over them 
 and broil over the coals, squeezing just enough 
 lemon juice and sprinkling just enough 
 chopped parsley over them to make them 
 grateful to the taste and eye when served. 
 
 But why don't you try to invent a sauce Sauce for 
 for calfs liver? Fry it in plenty of butter. Calf a Liver 
 then add to the butter, when the liver is re- 
 moved, anything that your palate suggests or 
 which your common sense approves. For 
 instance, put in a few tiny slices of gherkin, 
 a handful of mushrooms, a soupcon of tomato 
 sauce, a few capers, a little lemon juice, 
 chopped chives or chevrll, chopped shallot or 
 any herb or condiment that you may have in 
 the house. Of course you don't want to use 
 all of these articles, but try a combination of 
 any two or three or more of them, with the 
 
30 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 addition of a little stock and — who knows ? 
 — you may invent a sauce that will make you 
 as famous as was Bechamel, Conde or Caretne. 
 Success be with you ! 
 
 " Do be kind enough some of these times 
 when you are scribbling about the good things 
 at market to bear in mind that not every one 
 is hale and hearty and blessed with digestive 
 organs that could stand a diet of shingle nails. 
 Give a thought to the poor unfortunates that 
 are obliged to think twice before gratifying 
 their appetites once." Thus wailed one of the 
 said " poor unfortunates " once upon a time, 
 and as a result of the complaint I have since 
 been " holding them in thought " to a consid- 
 erable extent, with a view to making the ma- 
 terial aspect of a period of invalidism and 
 convalescence a bit the brighter. 
 
 Of course we all know that the list of eata- 
 bles allowed an invalid or a convalescent is of 
 necessity a rather short one ; but there is an 
 infinite number of ways for varying the list, 
 if one will use a little judgment and good 
 taste in preparing the dishes. We have all 
 had experience in seeing a sick person make 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 31 
 
 a wry face at the mention of gruel or por- 
 ridge, and precious little we blamed him for 
 it, to tell the truth. But the whole condi- 
 tion of affairs may be changed by preparing 
 it in this way: Have a pint of good clear 
 chicken broth, free from fat and not too c^,g^g„ 
 strong ; boil it, and into it shake slowly a cup Broth with 
 of oatmeal or wheaten grits ; let it cook for ^"*'"^"' 
 half an hour or so, pass it through a wire sieve, 
 and add to it a little more broth if that is 
 necessary to make it fit to be sipped easily 
 from a cup without using a spoon. Take it 
 to the sick-room with the remark, " I have 
 brought you a little puree of oatmeal," and 
 my word for it you will not see a drop left in 
 the cup. 
 
 And a puree of barley will be quite as Puree of 
 acceptable. Soak the barley over night, .and ^<^'^y 
 the next morning cover it with chicken broth ; 
 boil until the barley bursts, adding broth from 
 time to time as it cooks away ; when the broth 
 begins to thicken, which will be at the end of 
 about three hours' time, strain it through a 
 very fine sieve. Serve it in a cup ; and if you 
 dare do such a thing, add a tiny bit of butter 
 to it. It makes it a deal more palatable, and 
 I don't believe it will harm the patient ; but 
 
32 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 it's quite possible the physician in charge 
 may think otherwise. 
 Beef Tea There are ways and ways for making beef 
 tea ; but the best of all ways, it seems to me, 
 is to have round steak about one inch in 
 thickness, broil it for two minutes on each side 
 over a brisk fire, cut it up into inch squares, 
 cover it with cold water, and let it steep, not 
 boil, for two hours. Serve it in a cup, and 
 salt when serving. You and the ailing one 
 will find, I think, that the broiling of the 
 steak gives the tea a flavor that makes it " hit 
 the spot " — a consummation devoutly to be 
 wished when one is catering for an invalid. 
 
 Cream Soup Cream soups make a pleasing change after 
 plain broths or teas. Take any white stock 
 that is rich, free from fat and well seasoned. 
 Put into a saucepan half a pint of the stock 
 and the same quantity of cream. When it 
 comes to a boil add one tablespoonfiil of flour 
 thoroughly moistened with cold milk, and let 
 it boil at once. Serve with it finger-pieces of 
 thin buttered toast. 
 
 Sabayon of A highly nutritious dish is made by putting 
 four egg-yolks into a double boiler, diluting 
 them with half a pint of clear chicken broth, 
 and beating the mixture with a whip or beater 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 33 
 
 until it becomes thick and frothy. When it 
 is done add two teaspoonfuls of sherry to it, 
 and serve in a cup ; have it just as hot as pos- 
 sible. And if the person for whom you con- 
 coct this appetizing affair insists upon knowing 
 its name, you may say that it is a sabayon of 
 chicken. 
 
 And, by the way, what an endless amount Chicken 
 of dainty edibles may be made from chicken ! Cwstaz-rf 
 Take a chicken custard, for instance ; could 
 anything be daintier ? Have a cupful of good 
 clear chicken stock, and add to it an equal 
 quantity of cream ; cook it for a few minutes, 
 then put it into a double boiler, and add the 
 beaten yolks of three eggs and a little salt. 
 Cook until the mixture thickens a little, and 
 then pour it into custard cups to be served 
 cold. It 's an ungrateful, whimsical, and 
 grumpy sort of an invalid who does n't reckon 
 as a red-letter day the time when he first 
 tasted of a chicken custard. But whether or 
 not this is the case, you will have to keep 
 right on shaking up your ideas and producing 
 other dishes. 
 
 In all probability you will try your hand Tapioca Jelly 
 at jelly-making; and when you have ex- 
 hausted your own stock of recipes try making 
 
 3 
 
34 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 a tapioca jelly. To prepare it, soak one cup 
 of tapioca in three cups of water over night. 
 In the morning put it into a double boiler 
 with a cup of hot water, and let it simmer 
 until perfectly clear, stirring often. Sweeten 
 to taste and flavor with the juice of half a 
 lemon and two tablespoonfuls of wine. Pour 
 into cups, and set away to get perfectly cold. 
 When serving, sprinkle with powdered sugar 
 and heap a little whipped cream on it. 
 
 Or it may be that a blanc-mange made 
 with tapioca will seem to you worth the try- 
 ing. If so, soak a cupful of tapioca in two 
 cups of water over night. In the morning 
 put it into the double boiler, and stir into it 
 two cups of boiling milk, three tablespoonfuls 
 of sugar, and a pinch of salt. Cook it slowly 
 for fifteen minutes, stirring several times. 
 Take it from the fire, and flavor with wine 
 or vanilla. Let, it harden in small moulds, 
 and serve with powdered sugar and whipped 
 cream. 
 Violet Jelly And some day when the patient is unusually 
 capricious try surprising him or her with a 
 violet jelly. A woman I know told me not 
 long ago that she had found it more efficacious 
 than a dozen " soft answers." Have a pint 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 35 
 
 of clear boiling syrup, and into it throw a 
 heaping handful of fresh violets, after remov- 
 ing the stalks ; let this simmer, tightly cov- 
 ered, for half an hour. Then strain the liquor, 
 and add to it half an ounce of gelatine dis- 
 solved in a very little water, the juice of an 
 orange, and two teaspoonfuls of violet vege- 
 table coloring, which is as harmless as so much 
 cold water. Turn it into a mould, and set on 
 ice to harden. 
 
 "When boiled or steamed rice is ordered, try Steamed 
 preparing it in this way. Wash a cupful of '"^ 
 it thoroughly and put into the double boiler 
 with just enough water to cover it. When 
 the rice is nearly done, pour off the water, if 
 any remains, and add one cup of milk and a 
 little salt. Let the rice cook thoroughly till 
 done. Beat an egg well, and the last thing 
 before taking the rice from the fire stir the 
 egg in as lightly as possible, and serve hot 
 with sugar and cream. The egg makes the 
 dish a bit more attractive and considerably 
 more nutritious. 
 
 I wonder if you have ever tried cooking a Invalid's 
 lamb chop or cutlet in this way. Have three ^^"'^ 
 cutlets cut, two of them rather thinner than 
 the third, then tie them together, the thick 
 
36 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 one in the middle. Broil over a hot fire till 
 the outside cutlets are burnt to a crisp, and at 
 that stage you will find the inside one in just 
 the right condition for serving ; salt it, and 
 serve piping hot. With it serve a baked 
 potato that has been pressed through a sieve. 
 Sprinkle the potato with salt and moisten it 
 with a little cream. To be sure you may 
 think that a somewhat expensive way of cook- 
 ing a lamb chop, and so it is from some points 
 of view; but it will set any self-respecting 
 convalescent at least two days ahead on his 
 journey to complete recovery, and when you 
 think of it in that way you see it 's positively 
 cheap. All these things, yea, and a thousand 
 more, must be taken into consideration when 
 one is in attendance upon a sick person. 
 
 To say that every one should have a chafing- 
 dish in these days were to be trite — every- 
 one should have seven chafing-dishes, or as 
 near that number as possible ; not one for 
 every day in the week exactly, but rather 
 that, if you are having a little after-the-opera 
 or after-the-theatre jollification and have a 
 dozen or so hungry ones to feed, there may 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 37 
 
 be enough to go round, and also that you 
 may have a variety of dainties. 
 
 Not all will want creamed oysters, of 
 course, but you can set a pretty girl to pre- 
 paring this dish for those who do want it. 
 Give her about half a pint of rich, thick 
 cream, an ounce or so of butter and a tea- 
 spoonful of flour which she will braid together 
 in the most approved cooking-school fashion 
 for thickening the cream when it is hot. 
 Then she should put in two dozen or so oy- 
 sters that have been well drained and freed from 
 any bits of shell. If you can trust her to do 
 so, let her season the dish with a dash of red 
 pepper, and salt, and a shake or two of celery 
 salt. When the edges of the oysters begin to 
 frizzle, have ready for her either little strips of 
 toast or some crackers on hot plates, on which 
 to serve the oysters. If you find that more 
 than three persons will be apt to bid for the 
 creamed oysters, you will want rather more 
 than two dozen, I fancy ; still, you will know 
 best about that. 
 
 If you have any cold fish in the house, hali- 
 but or cod or haddock that has been boiled or 
 baked, not fried, have it flaked up in good- 
 sized pieces and marinated for three or four 
 
 Creamed 
 Oysters 
 
 Flaked Cold 
 Cod in 
 Tomato 
 
38 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 hours in a tablespoonful each of oil and vine- 
 gar, a dash of cayenne, the juice of an onion 
 and salt to taste. When you are to use it 
 have hot in the chafing-dish three teaspoon- 
 fuls each of rich tomato sauce, sherry wine 
 and butter, putting the butter in a;nd melting 
 it first. When these are well blended to- 
 gether, lay in the fish and stir it about in the 
 sauce till quite hot. This, let me tell you, 
 will not go a-begging for admirers. It is a 
 particularly savory tidbit, and on a cold night 
 is its own best recommendation. 
 Lobster j •^yonder if you will say a recipe for lobster 
 a la Newberg Is altogether too stale if I under- 
 take to tell it to you. I know its age just as 
 well as you do, and I also know that I could 
 weep bitterly, if it would do any good, at some 
 of the concoctions called by that name that I 
 have had put before me, and which, worse 
 than all, I have been expected to eat. So 
 right here I shall put on record my way of 
 preparing that delicious dish, and if you don't 
 care to read it, why skip it, of course. Into 
 the chafing dish put two ounces of butter and 
 let it melt; then put in the meat of a two- 
 pound lobster cut into dice-shaped pieces and 
 let them cook till they are really fried a bit. 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 39 
 
 Then turn low the flame of the lamp while 
 you pour in a little less than a pint of cream 
 in which has been beaten three eggs, seasoned 
 with salt and red pepper. Just as this is hot 
 add a scant wine-glass of sherry and let it 
 heat once more, regulating the flame all the 
 time so that it cannot boil. For if it does 
 the jig is up, the eggs will be sure to curdle, 
 and you will wish to goodness you had n't 
 undertaken it. Have little triangles of 
 toasted bread on which to serve the lobster, 
 and if it turns out the success it should, your 
 reputation among your guests will be for all 
 time established as a hostess who knows her 
 business from A to Z. 
 
 If you will get some chicken livers you can Chicken 
 prepare a very appetizing dish with very little 'I'^f^""^^ 
 trouble. Melt an ounce of butter in the 
 chafing dish and in it put, say, eight or ten 
 livers that have been salted well and rolled 
 in a little flour. Let them cook pretty fast 
 for ten minutes, or till you think they are 
 done, then put with them half a pint of hot 
 water and a teaspoonful of any extract of beefj 
 with what salt and pepper your superior judg- 
 ment deems suitable. When this is hot turn 
 in a gill of sherry, and a dozen olives pitted and 
 
40 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 quartered. Just a dash of lemon juice and 
 the deed is done, provided you have ready 
 some toast for the serving of the hvers. 
 
 If you have n't at the time of night when 
 you will be serving these dishes a fire over 
 which you can toast the bread, you can have 
 one of the guests preparing the bread in a 
 chafing dish. Cut the slices of the size you 
 like and fry them delicately in a very little 
 butter and they will go finely in this way. 
 Welsh Because you may think I don't know how 
 to make one if I say nothing, I suppose I 
 shall have to oiFer a word or so about Welsh 
 rabbits. Melt an ounce of butter in the 
 chafing-dish and then stir in and let melt 
 slowly a pound of cheese cut up into very 
 small pieces. Season this as you go along 
 with paprika, a little salt, and mustard as you 
 think you like it. When the cheese is quite 
 melted pour in, very slowly, a little beer or 
 ale, about two gills in all. Then when it is 
 well blended with the cheese stir in a couple 
 of eggs well beaten and serve on crackers. 
 Did you ever try making your rabbits with 
 ginger ale? Really they are good in that 
 way, and it is very palatable to drink when 
 you are eating them. And cider is delicious 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 41 
 
 served with rabbits, also — the champagne 
 cider. Try it some time. 
 
 For a golden buck, prepare the cheese as Golden Buck 
 for a rabbit, but on each plate when you are 
 serving it place a poached egg. These must 
 be prepared in another dish while the rabbit 
 is under process of construction. So, you 
 see, I was n't so far off in my calculations, 
 rapid as they seemed to you at the time, when 
 I said my little say about seven chafing dishes. 
 
 Suppose you have on hand a pint of rich Eggs 
 
 tomato sauce. Heat this in the chafing-dish J*"" 5 '" 
 
 ° Tomato 
 
 and poach in it two eggs. Lift them out and 
 lay on a hot dish while you poach two more. 
 Continue in this way till you have half-a-dozen 
 eggs poached. Serve one or two as you like, 
 on a slice of toast or fried bread, pour some 
 of the tomato sauce round, sprinkle grated 
 Parmesan cheese over each and send them 
 around the table on their mission. 
 
 If you are fond of curry try some curried Cunied Eggs 
 eggs. Melt in the chafing-dish two ounces 
 of butter, and fry in it two small onions, 
 sliced ; take these out and stir in a dessert- 
 spoonful of curry powder and a teaspoonful 
 of Worcestershire sauce. When these are 
 
42 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 well mixed add half a dozen well-beaten eggs. 
 Cook quickly and serve. 
 Creamed Perhaps you have a pet recipe for creamed 
 Chicken chicken, and I don't doubt it is all such a re- 
 cipe should be ; but let me suggest that, in- 
 stead of putting chicken and cream and all 
 the other things into the chafing-dish at the 
 same time, you melt the butter first and then 
 stir in the chicken and let it cook for two or 
 three minutes before you put in the cream, or 
 bechamel, or whatever it is you use. The 
 flavor of the dish will be very much richer 
 and more palatable to most persons. For, be- 
 tween ourselves, I think that creamed chicken 
 is apt to be rather a flat and tasteless affair, 
 and will stand quite a little bracing up. 
 
 I hope you won't want to spoil the taste of 
 any of these dishes by having sweets after 
 them, in the way of fancy cakes, etc. If you 
 do, you may choose them for yourselves. 
 I '11 have none of them. 
 
MARCH 
 
 " So comes a reckoning nuhen the banquet 's o'er, — 
 The dreadful reckoning, and men smile no more." 
 
 THERE could n't be a better time than 
 the present in which to have a smoke- 
 talk, mesdames. There, there, now, 
 pray don't be alarmed ; I 've no notion of 
 passing round any of the popular brands of 
 cigars. Neither would I so much as offer you 
 cigarettes, albeit the latest scientific utterance 
 has pronounced them harmless. 
 
 No, our talk shall be of some of the smoked 
 and salted viands that, while they may not 
 perhaps come under the head of delicacies or 
 indelicacies of the season, are decidedly appe- 
 tizing, and quite worthy of having consider- 
 able attention given to the best ways and means 
 of serving them. 
 
 And have n't you been saddened hundreds Salt Fish 
 of times when reflecting upon the disregard ""*'' ^'■^"'" 
 of details that makes of a dish of salt-fish and 
 cream nothing but a pasty and altogether hor- 
 rid mess ? But a dish of salted cod becomes 
 delicacy itself if the fish is shredded while raw, 
 all skin and bone removed, washed several 
 
44 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 times in cold water and cooked in plenty of 
 fresh water ; then it should be drained and 
 covered with cream, which has been heated 
 and thickened with an egg or two beaten up 
 well in a tablespoonful or so of cream; add 
 a dash of cayenne, to give it a zest, and you 
 have prepared for breakfast or luncheon a 
 dainty that will quite justify you in fancying 
 yourself for the rest of the day. And that 's 
 a wonderfully comfortable state of mind in 
 which to find oneself. 
 Salt Fish Perhaps, however, for a luncheon dish you 
 with Brown ^^^y j.^^^^^ j^^^^ ^^^ codfish served with 
 
 Butter T I ■ I 
 
 brown butter. In which case you flake and 
 
 freshen it as before, and cook in plenty of 
 water. Take it up on a hot dish and pour 
 over it a sauce made of butter, in which you 
 have fried minced onion and a handful of 
 chopped parsley till they are brown. And you 
 can vary this sauce infinitely : add a bay leaf 
 or two, or a few capers, or some chopped sweet 
 red peppers, and get a new flavor with each 
 addition. 
 
 The subject of codfish balls I won't take 
 up here. I fear I might make it too exhaus- 
 tive. And, besides, every housekeeper seems 
 to have a chosen way for preparing them. 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 45 
 
 I wish as much could be said about that Fried Cods' 
 too-little-appreciated genuine delicacy — fresh °"9"^^ 
 cod's tongues. They are delicious when boiled 
 till tender, and then served with brown but- 
 ter, as suggested above for codfish. And they 
 are just as good, and some think even better, 
 if they are dipped in milk, then rolled one by 
 one in flour, and fried in plenty of butter for 
 about ten minutes. You can simply pour 
 the butter on them when serving, with a little 
 chopped parsley scattered over all, or you can 
 put into the frying-pan, after taking the tongues 
 out, a gill or two of tomato sauce, and serve 
 this separately in a sauceboat, serving each 
 tongue on a slice of toast. Usually it will be 
 found necessary to soak the salted tongues for 
 twenty-four hours or more in water, changing 
 it once or twice, as seems necessary. 
 
 To be sure there's considerable trouble and 
 no small amount of care involved in having 
 these edibles, or any others, for that matter, 
 quite as one would like, but some old wise- 
 acre has said that life's cares are its comforts, 
 and if one only has a firm belief, rooted and 
 grounded in past experience, in this bit of 
 philosophy it 's just as easy to apply it to cook- 
 ing as to painting. 
 
46 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 Broiled And a little of this care used in the broil- 
 
 Smohed 
 Salmon 
 
 ing of smoked salmon redeems it from the 
 charred and uninviting dish it too often makes. 
 It is best to cut the salmon into small strips, 
 wrap each strip in a piece of buttered paper, 
 and then broil over a clear fire. When done 
 remove the paper, and serve the fish on a 
 piping hot dish, at once. And if you want 
 a sauce for it make one by cooking a minced 
 onion in a gill of vinegar and twice as much 
 water, adding, as the onion shows signs of 
 tenderness, two ounces of fresh butter, four 
 finely chopped hard-boiled egg yolks, and a 
 little chopped parsley. 
 Boiled Salt Of course you know how to cook salt mack- 
 with'Horse- erel — you could sue me for libel if J said 
 radish Sauce aught to the contrary. But do you, I won- 
 der, ever try preparing it in my favorite way ? 
 This is the manner of it : Soak the mackerel 
 for twelve hours, changing the water several 
 times. Then boil it in an abundance of water, 
 in which there is a bay leaf, two or three 
 onions, some parsley and the juice of a lemon. 
 The fish should cook very slowly, and not be 
 allowed to come to pieces. When they are 
 done, serve them on a folded napkin, with a 
 sauce made by reducing a pint of cream to one- 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 47 
 
 half, adding to it an ounce of butter, and 
 thickening it with two egg yolks. Then add 
 to it half its quantity of grated horse-radish, 
 heating it again, without boiling. In most 
 cases it is necessary to add salt to this sauce, 
 but I prescribe no quantity. I only advise 
 being skittish about the amount when it is to 
 be used for a salt fish. If you are to have 
 smoked mackerel, broil instead of boiling it 
 and serve with it the cream horse-radish sauce. 
 
 And then there are smoked and salted her- Smoked 
 ring, that if cooked judiciously make life at ^^.''""S' 
 least a bit more comfortable. It is best to 
 soak them for five or six hours in water and 
 then for two hours in sweet, fresh milk, after 
 which you can work out some wonderful dishes 
 with them. If they have been salted only, 
 fry in butter and serve them on potatoes 
 mashed with cream. But if the herring are 
 smoked as well as salted, split them down the 
 back and cook in enough milk to cover. 
 Cook till thoroughly done, and then serve on 
 a very hot dish with branches of parsley 
 around, and a little sweet rich cream poured 
 over them. 
 
 But, to my thinking, the best of all the 
 smoked and salted fish are the finnan baddies. 
 
48 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 Finnan And one of the best ways of cooking them is 
 
 Haddies with ^g pgj. ^.j^g^j. j^gj. described for cooking herring. 
 Cteam o o 
 
 But the haddies are much less salt, and require 
 
 little, if any, soaking. Or, if you prefer, you 
 can put them in a buttered baking-pan, pour 
 cream and bread crumbs over them and brown 
 in a hot oven. Give them a little more 
 cream when serving. And again after you 
 and your household have partaken of this dish 
 and pronounced it good, hard to beat, etc., you 
 will have occasion to be pleased with yourself, 
 which, being interpreted, means of course be- 
 ing perfectly satisfied with all the world. 
 
 It is possible, nay, probable, that you, 
 mesdames, with all the calls that the Lenten 
 season makes upon your spiritual selves, find 
 little time for ordering or arranging dinners ; 
 furthermore — and it 's in no way to your dis- 
 credit — it may be that with so much of each 
 day given over to reflection and concentrated 
 thought you experience a sort of disinclination 
 to give heed to things material. Therefore it 
 behooves me to be alive to my duty, which 
 in the premises certainly seems to prescribe 
 that I shall think and plan a bit for you ; and 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 49 
 
 I herewith submit, as the result of a goodly 
 amount of cogitation on my part, a menu 
 which I hope will strike you as being a very 
 good sort of "working model," should you 
 not care to follow it to the letter : — 
 
 Consomme maigre with asparagus points. 
 
 Lake trout with court bouillon. 
 
 Macaroni timbales with tomato sauce. 
 
 Casserole of fillets of sole. 
 
 Oyster souffles. 
 
 Coffee cream glacee. Almond pudding. 
 
 You see that such a menu provides a dinner 
 perfectly within the rule implied by "diner 
 maigre" though it can in no sense be called 
 a fast-day dinner. In fact, the very phrase is 
 a contradiction. If you are fasting, you do 
 not dine ; you simply eat to live — a very 
 different thing. 
 
 And now for particulars. No need to tell 
 you how to make the soup ; you have stacks 
 of cookery books that will give you the infor- 
 mation necessary for the making of a good 
 clear consomme. As for the asparagus points, 
 it will be quite as well from all points of view 
 to buy the canned asparagus tips, and cook 
 a little in salted water, adding them to the 
 soup about five minutes before it is served. 
 
 4 
 
so I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 Boiled Lake Perhaps your housekeepers' euides may not 
 
 Trout , fl. • , 1- • • J 1 • 
 
 be sufficiently exphcit in regard to cooking 
 the lake trout in the manner suggested, so I 
 will tell you in detail. In the first place, you 
 take equal quantities of white French wine — 
 as inexpensive as you please — and water, one 
 small onion, a bouquet of parsley, thyme, etc., 
 some peppercorns, and a proper amount of 
 salt. Let this boil for fifteen minutes, and 
 you have as good a court bouillon as one 
 could wish. Into it put the trout, tied into 
 any shape you desire, and boil until tender; 
 remove it, and serve on a fish paper or nap- 
 kin ; garnish with fresh green parsley sprays. 
 For the sauce, you will melt some butter in a 
 part of the court bouillon, and serve sepa- 
 rately. You should find good lake trout in 
 the market now, and at a price that does n't 
 confine them to the list of luxuries. Are n't 
 you glad? 
 
 Have you any idea how many ways are 
 known to expert cooks for preparing maca- 
 roni ? I have n't. But I should not be 
 surprised to see offered for sale any day 
 a publication setting forth " One Thousand 
 Ways to Cook Macaroni," and I hope that 
 macaroni timbales, in case such an event 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 51 
 
 comes to pass, will be given the place of 
 honor. Try making them in this way, and i^ctcaroni 
 you Will agree with me. rJoil the macaroni in 
 plenty of salted water till it is tender, but not 
 "mushy." Drain off the water, and add, 
 with all thoughts of economy thrown to the 
 winds, melted butter ; stir it in well, and add a 
 goodly sprinkling of grated Parmesan cheese 
 and cayenne pepper. Line a mould with the 
 very best puff-paste you know how to make, 
 rolled as thinly as possible, and put in the 
 macaroni; cover with a round of the paste, 
 lay a sheet of buttered paper over the top, and 
 bake in a hot oven for about thirty minutes. 
 Unmould on a hot dish, and pour round it 
 some tomato sauce made from the best recipe 
 given in any of your gastronomical literature. 
 
 Then consult the aforesaid literature still Casserole of 
 further, and select therefrom the most appe- ^^jf^ °^ 
 tizing recipe for making a stuffing of bread- 
 crumbs, when you have it properly prepared 
 spread with it some fillets of sole, and tie 
 them into shape with a little thread. Now 
 put into a casserole, or stewpan, three or four 
 ounces of butter, two minced onions, and the 
 fish ; let it fry for five or six minutes, then 
 add to it two or three gills of bechamel sauce 
 
52 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 (see cookery books once more), a cupful of 
 chopped mushrooms, and a claret-glass of 
 claret. Cover the pan closely, and cook in 
 the oven for half an hour. When finished, 
 remove the strings from the fillets, and serve 
 in a deep dish with the liquor in which they 
 were cooked poured over them. And there 
 you have a dish fit to tickle the palate of any 
 king, or knave, that ever lived. Later in the 
 season, when lobsters are selling at a more 
 reasonable price, try substituting them for 
 the soles, and your delight will be increased 
 several-fold. 
 Oyster Very likely you know as much or more 
 oustes ^^^^ J ^^ about making oyster souffles, but, 
 be that as it may, I have the floor, and am 
 going to tell you what I do know about them, 
 for I may never get another chance. My 
 way is to blanch two dozen good oysters in 
 their own liquor, then cut them into dice, 
 and while they are cooling prepare a sauce of 
 two ounces each of butter and flour, a dust 
 of cayenne, a little salt, the yolks of three 
 eggs, and half a pint of rich milk; when 
 it is thick enough and smooth enough I put 
 in the oysters and their liquor, pour the mix- 
 ture into little soufile cases, sprinkle each with 
 
I GO A-MARKETING S3 
 
 browned bread-crumbs and bits of butter, 
 and bake in a moderate oven for eighteen 
 minutes ; then serve at once. How do you 
 think you would like to try that way of mak- 
 ing them ? 
 
 Now, you will admit that I very seldom Coffee 
 presume to tell you how to prepare sweets, ^''^T 
 but to-day my story would be incomplete 
 if I were to omit the directions for making a 
 coffee cream glacee. It is easy as can be; 
 that is, if you can freeze things. Beat the 
 yolks of four eggs in a basin with four ounces 
 of powdered sugar, standing the basin in an- 
 other of hot water, so that they may get quite 
 warm, but not hot ; add to them a gill of 
 strong coffee, beat it all together till it is 
 light and creamy and quite cold. Then add 
 to it a pint of stiffly whipped cream, pour the 
 mixture into a mould, and bury in ice and salt 
 for two hours. Unmould on the prettiest 
 piece of lace paper you have when serving. 
 
 Perhaps I run the risk of overdoing the Almond 
 matter by telling you how to make an almond l'"<^<^'"9 
 pudding, but it does harmonize so delightfully 
 with coffee glacee that 'twould be actually 
 sinful to leave you in ignorance of how it 
 is made. It 's simple, too, simple as a b c. 
 
54 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 You just beat up the yolks of five and the 
 whites of three eggs with a large tablespoonful 
 of rose-water, and add gradually to it four 
 ounces of powdered sugar and four ounces of 
 freshly ground almonds, mixed with a few 
 small whole ones. Beat this thoroughly for 
 ten or fifteen minutes, pour into a well-but- 
 tered pie-dish and bake. When half-cooked, 
 garnish with strips of candied orange peel 
 and blanched almonds. And if you have 
 any of the pudding left, which is doubtful, 
 you will find that it makes an excellent five- 
 o'clock tea cake, for it is quite as good cold 
 as hot. 
 
 Now, have I not given you a good ground 
 plan, so to speak, for Lenten dinners ? It is 
 the easiest thing in the world to leave out a 
 part of it, or add to it, for that matter, for it 
 is composed wholly of neutral tints, you might 
 say, and almost any viand under the sun will 
 dovetail with it, if you wish to elaborate it. 
 
 I really don't know the first thing about 
 the dietetic properties of eggs, for which 
 ignorance I am truly grateful, because I have 
 always noticed that once a man or a woman 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 55 
 
 gets where the healthfiilness or the hurtful- 
 ness of any edible becomes the first consid- 
 eration all real pleasure to be found in dining 
 has for that man or woman lost half its 
 charm. 
 
 Neither could I guess, though I had a 
 dozen chances, whether the fact that eggs 
 form the backbone of so many meals during 
 Lent has its foundation in history, or some 
 religious rite. And I am also content to 
 remain uninformed on this point. 
 
 But I do know that at market these days 
 the sign "strictly fresh eggs" is the most 
 noticeable feature on every hand ; and I 
 know, too, that there are a good many house- 
 keepers who fairly long to know of some way 
 in which to improve upon the neutral flavor of 
 an egg so that it may become dainty, savory or 
 delicately sweet as the case may seem to require. 
 
 To begin with the savory list : Some fine Eggs Curdled 
 morning when you are to have for break- .'"" (^''^am 
 fast just an appetizing bit of broiled salted 
 herring, try cooking some eggs in this way — 
 Put half a pint of cream into a saucepan and 
 let it boil. Stir into it five well-beaten eggs, 
 seasoned with salt and pepper. Let this 
 mixture curdle, then turn it out on to a hot 
 
56 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 dish and brown it quickly with a salamander ; 
 and you '11 be at a loss to know whether it's 
 the herring that makes the egg taste so well, 
 or if it 's the egg that makes the herring so 
 remarkably palatable. 
 Eggs, Epi- Another delicious way of serving eggs for 
 curean Style breakfast is to have, as a beginning, say one 
 dozen eggs and boil them till hard ; take oiF 
 their shells, cut them in halves and rub the 
 yolks through a fine sieve ; put an ounce of 
 butter and one cupful of cream into a sauce- 
 pan, season it with salt and white pepper and 
 thicken with a very little flour. When it is 
 quite hot but not boiling stir into it half of 
 the whites of the eggs, chopped, and the yolks. 
 Arrange the remainder of the whites on a dish, 
 pour the mixture over them, and serve piping 
 hot. You see the eggs can be boiled and pre- 
 pared the day before, and there 's very litde 
 to be done to get them ready for breakfast. 
 Now, should you want to make this into a 
 more savory dish, you could easily add a little 
 minced ham, the juice of an onion, or some 
 minced olives and a few mushrooms, and have 
 by so doing a delectable luncheon dish that 
 would go admirably with, say, some cold sliced 
 tongue or with pickled 'lambs' tongues. 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 57 
 
 A particularly savory dish of eggs is made Baked Eggs 
 by frying two small minced onions in butter 
 till they are brown ; then mix with them a 
 dessertspoonful of vinegar, a very little salt, 
 and some pepper. Butter a dish, spread the 
 onions over it, break over them half a dozen 
 eggs, and put into a hot oven. When the 
 eggs are cooked sufficiently, cover them with 
 a layer of bread-crumbs that have been fried 
 in butter, and serve. The bread-crumbs must 
 be hot, of course. Try this some day at 
 luncheon when you are having broiled pigs' 
 feet and potato croquettes. 
 
 And if it does n't turn out the success you Egg Toast 
 hoped, the next day you might take some very ""'** Cheese 
 thin slices of bread, trim off the crusts, lay 
 on a well-buttered dish, and cover with very 
 thin slices of cheese. Beat up well enough 
 eggs to cover the bread, season with salt 
 and a little cayenne pepper, and pour them 
 over the slices. Put the dish in a moderate 
 oven and bake until the eggs are set. Serve 
 while very hot in the same dish. If you 
 prefer, you may use in place of the sliced 
 cheese some grated Parmesan cheese sprinkled 
 over the bread, and sprinkle a little over the 
 eggs too. 
 
58 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 Eggain Eggs scrambled in tomato puree make a 
 Tomato ^electable dish for luncheon, or for dinner as 
 an entree. Have half a pmt of rich tomato 
 puree, and cook in it half-a-dozen well beaten 
 eggs ; pour the whole into a deep dish, and 
 serve with it some bread croutons. Some 
 finely cut up chives will at times be thought 
 an improvement to this dish. 
 Scrambled And there are scrambled eggs with truffles 
 ^^7* ffl** ^^^ ^^^ good enough for any time or place. 
 Cook four sliced truffles in a wineglass of 
 Madeira for about two minutes ; then put in 
 a tablespoonful of butter, and season with 
 salt and white pepper. Break eight eggs 
 and without beating stir them well with a 
 wooden spoon in the wine for three minutes, 
 cooking quickly all the while. Serve in a 
 hot dish. 
 Caviare If one is fond of caviare (and who is n't 
 nowadays ?), an omelet with caviare is most 
 tempting. Make an omelet of the desired 
 number of eggs, and just before folding over 
 spread it with a layer of caviare diluted with 
 a little bechamel sauce. After the omelet is 
 dished, garnish with parsley. 
 
 You will find in your hunts for Spanish 
 omelet recipes that they will turn up as thick 
 
 Omelets 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 59 
 
 as bees in a hive, after which you will let the Spanish 
 different directions for this savory dish foment "'"®'®* 
 in your mind till you get what seems to be 
 the best from each and turn out one that is 
 your very own, and entitled to be known to 
 your friends as " Spanish omelet a la Madame 
 Featherstonaugh " — or whatever name has 
 the honor to belong to you. My recipe you 
 shall have till you get one of your own, how- 
 ever. To begin with, have a rich tomato 
 puree ; to this you add chopped pimentos or 
 sweet Spanish peppers con amore, then a bit 
 of fried chopped onion, a few mushrooms, 
 also cooked, and diced cold cooked tongue or 
 ham, preferably tongue. Take any liberties 
 with it that you like, pray. Don't think you 
 must follow it to the letter. I rarely do, to be 
 candid with you. I have used cold chicken, 
 cold duck, and also cold goose, when the larder 
 has been bereft of ham or tongue ; and not 
 one of my household dared to say anything 
 shady about it. 
 
 Of course, every housekeeper has a chicken Omelet with 
 liver omelet recipe among her belongings, ^^"'*^" 
 and made in the most ordinary way they are 
 pretty sure to be worth the eating ; but if the 
 livers are cooked in a little butter, and then 
 
6o I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 a little Madeira is added to the butter, the 
 omelet is far and away ahead of those made by 
 ordinary recipes, as you will see by try- 
 ing it. 
 Jelly Omelet When it comes to an omelet for dessert, 
 nothing can be better than an omelet stuffed 
 with preserves or fresh fruit. If preserves are 
 used, there 's a wide range from which to 
 select, and any taste can be satisfied. Fill it 
 with currant jelly, or apricot or grapefruit 
 marmalade, or any other fruit that you like. 
 In almost any case a little grated lemon peel 
 and a handful of chopped almonds will be 
 an improvement. After the omelet is dished 
 it should always be sprinkled with finely 
 powdered sugar. 
 Strawberry You might in the way of fresh fruits 
 Omelet ^^^ some of the strawberries that are of re- 
 spectable flavor and price now. Get a box 
 some day of the best-looking ones you can 
 find, and sort them over. Save out about 
 half of them, the fairest ones in the lot, 
 cut in halves, and put them in a bowl with 
 two heaping tablespoonfuls of sugar, a piece 
 of orange peel, and two teaspoonfuls of rum, 
 and set them in a cool place. Press the 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 6i 
 
 remainder of the strawberries through a fine 
 sieve, and sweeten well. Make an omelet 
 of six eggs, and before folding over fill it 
 with the cut-up strawberries, without any of 
 the liquid. Dish the omelet, sprinkle with 
 powdered sugar, and pour around it the juice 
 of the strawberries, to which has been added 
 the liquid from the halved strawberries. It 's 
 a delicate dish, indeed, and you will find that 
 it will be a favorite at any table. 
 
 If you have a recipe for C6lestine omelets, Ceiestine 
 small ones, of which you are very much enam- "'^ ^ 
 ored, this paragraph will not interest you. 
 But if you are at odds with the one you have, 
 glance through this. Make as many small 
 omelets as you think will be required, one egg 
 to each, with yolk and white beaten separately. 
 Put them on a hot dish, cover with a thin layer 
 of peach marmalade, and on this sprinkle 
 chopped candied fruits with a few chopped 
 almonds, and over all spread whipped cream. 
 Work at chain-lightning speed in preparing 
 this after the omelets are dished, and get to 
 the table in even quicker time, if you would 
 know this dish in perfection. Though if 
 anything happens to cause you to slacken 
 
62 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 your pace a bit, it will be worth the having, 
 for it will bear shading down a trifle from the 
 top-notch. Or, make the eggs into one large 
 omelet, and before folding it over fill with the 
 jam and fruits, and sprinkle the almonds and 
 whipped cream over it after it is dished. 
 Snow Eggs Then there's a dish called " Snow Eggs " 
 that 's just as inofi^ensive as it sounds. You 
 beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth, 
 and then drop them a spoonful at a time into 
 boiling milk till they poach a bit. Take them 
 out, thicken the milk with the yolks, adding 
 sugar and any desired flavoring. Pour this 
 over the poached whites, dish, and sprinkle 
 with chopped macaroons before serving. 
 Omelette It would n't be fair to omit any mention 
 ouffee ^£ ^^ omelette soufflee in a chapter on eggs ; 
 so here it shall go, though for myself I don't 
 care for it. It has always seemed to me like 
 a dessert to be served when a dessert was n't 
 really needed or wanted, but because a dessert 
 of some kind must go down to make the 
 luncheon or dinner complete. Separate, then, 
 the yolks and whites of five eggs. Beat the 
 yolks and half a cup of sugar together for 
 ten minutes. Flavor with a little rose-water. 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 63 
 
 Then turn to the whites, and beat them to 
 the stifFest kind of a froth. Butter a souffle 
 dish, and pour the mixture into it. Bake 
 for twelve minutes, and send to table. The 
 guests should always be waiting for an omelette 
 soufflee, mind. Never force the omelet to do 
 the waiting — it is n't giving it a fair chance. 
 
APRIL 
 
 "The best doctors in the ixjorld are Doctor 
 Diet, Doctor Sfuiet, and Doctor Merryman/' 
 
 THE very first thing to be done on 
 Easter morning is to get up in time 
 to see the sun dance ; for, as you 
 probably know, not a bit of good luck will 
 be yours for the year to come if laziness, 
 or anything, in fact, save cloudy skies, pre- 
 vents your beholding this phenomenon. But 
 it is possible that you don't know that this 
 means nothing less than to be facing the east 
 with eagle eye and steady nerve at a pretty 
 early hour. Rather rough, is n't it ? How 
 would it do, then, to sit up all night in order 
 to be on hand to witness the fancy steps 
 of the god of day ? You could do that and 
 then have a good long nap, after which you 
 might be refreshed by a breakfast of shad roes 
 (they 're about as inexpensive now as they 
 will be), broiled to a turn, with a little melted 
 butter and lemon juice, judiciously mixed, 
 poured over them ; dainty, crisp lettuce hearts, 
 salted a bit; graham bread, thinly sliced, 
 and toasted to that shade known the world 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 65 
 
 over "as epicurean brown;" and lastly, 
 instead of coffee, a steaming, fragrant, appe- 
 tizing cup of English breakfast tea. My 
 word for it, you will be tempted to linger 
 over this breakfast, but stern duty permits no 
 such loitering. No, indeed; you must be up 
 and away, or how on earth are you going to 
 make certain comparisons that shall confirm 
 you in your belief that your new bonnet is 
 nothing less than a dream ? Dear knows, I 
 hope you won't see any headgear that will 
 take the shine off your own, for then you will 
 be sure to go home out of sorts, and the 
 charming little dinner menu that I have com- 
 piled for your use and behoof might as well 
 ^ be of corned beef and cabbage for all the 
 appreciation it will get from ypu. 
 
 But in case that everything does go 
 smoothly, and nothing happens to nick your 
 peace of mind, could anything be more de- 
 lectable than a dinner which would unfold 
 itself to your delighted palate in this order ? 
 To begin with: Clam cocktails, made, of ciam 
 course, with the little-neck variety; they Cocktails 
 should be put in half-dozen lots into small 
 glasses, and seasoned with lemon juice, tabasco, 
 salt, and the tiniest suspicion of onion juice — 
 
 5 
 
66 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 just enough, you understand, to cause one to 
 wonder if that delightful flavor is really onion. 
 
 And then to follow up the good impression 
 left by the clam cocktails, have a soup of con- 
 somme of perfect flavor and delicacy — the 
 sort, you know, that doesn't jar with what 
 has gone before or is to come. 
 
 The " to come " in this case might be, 
 say, of trout, broiled to a nicety and served 
 with tartar sauce. But if for financial reasons 
 you object to the trout, why, then you may get 
 good salmon from the West, or pompano, and 
 bluefish of fairly good flavor. But whatever 
 fish you decide upon, have it broiled, so that 
 you may serve it with some delicious hothouse 
 cucumbers. Quite a little fall in the price of 
 cucumbers you will see within the next two 
 or three weeks. 
 Lamb Steak And the price of spring lamb has dropped 
 perceptibly too by this time. Now, please, 
 whichever part of the lamb you select, don't 
 have it roasted. Have it sliced for steaks, and 
 broiled to the stage most in favor in your 
 family circle, then salted well, but buttered 
 sparingly, as you must — there is no use in 
 trying to dodge the issue — serve a Bearnaise 
 sauce with lamb steak. Have lobster salad 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 67 
 
 without the lobster, omit the crabs from dev- 
 illed crabsj if it pleases you, but never under 
 any circumstances serve a lamb steak without 
 a Bearnaise sauce. It would be barbarism — 
 nothing short of it ! And to make the sauce? Bearnaise 
 Well, put into a saucepan a gill of vinegar and """^ 
 water, equal parts, half a teaspoonful of minced 
 onion, and a few tarragon leaves. Let this cook, 
 tightly covered, till reduced one-half; then 
 take it off the fire, and when cold mix with it 
 the well-beaten yolks of four eggs ; season 
 with salt and mignonette, and return to the 
 fire ; add slowly to it three ounces of melted 
 butter, stirring continually till it thickens to 
 the consistency of mayonnaise. Then strain 
 it through a fine sieve, and add to it chopped 
 tarragon, a teaspoonful, and the same quantity 
 of chopped parsley. 
 
 And there 's just one way to cook potatoes Potatoes 
 so that they seem quite good enough to ac- Soufflees 
 company a lamb steak, and that way is called 
 potatoes soufflees. The potatoes should be 
 trimmed to ovals two and a quarter inches 
 long by one and a quarter wide, and then 
 sliced lengthwise, having the slices half an 
 inch in thickness. When they are sliced, 
 put them into ice-water to remain twenty-five 
 
68 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 minutes. Then have ready two pans of frying 
 fatj one just hot and the other piping hot. 
 Into the former put the potatoes, in a frying- 
 basket, and let them cook without browning 
 till tender; take them out, place on a 
 sieve to cool and dry somewhat, and then 
 plunge them into the pan containing the 
 piping hot fat ; stir them about, and they will 
 begin to souffler ; then they must be taken 
 out, salted and served. 
 
 Now, if anything happens to prevent this 
 course from turning out the howling success 
 that I predict for it, I want you to go to my 
 favorite dining place the next time you are in 
 New York and order " the same." You will 
 know then what these two dishes are in 
 perfection. 
 
 It may be that a salad of new beets would 
 be quite the thing on this occasion ; if so, you 
 will have no trouble in finding them in good 
 condition, and as sweet as a new beet should be. 
 
 Here endeth my part of the lesson. 
 
 Set your own pace for a dessert. 
 
 Although I am prepared to sit up nights 
 to sympathize with any one who is really de- 
 serving of having me share that emotion with 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 69 
 
 her, I don't have a particle of desire to weep 
 with the woman who weeps because visitors 
 have dropped in on her suddenly and caught 
 her with her cupboard bare. In these days 
 of canned things the woman whose larder 
 does n't boast as a continuous performance at 
 least half a dozen varieties was never meant 
 for a housekeeper. 
 
 For my part, I should think I was remiss 
 in the duties of a housekeeper if I did not 
 have half a dozen varieties of canned soup 
 alone from which to select in time of need. 
 
 Start, then, we will say, an impromptu lunch Sardine 
 with a soup canned by any one of the sixteen ""* 
 firms, more or less, that so prepare them. Of 
 course, there will be sardines — the stand-by of 
 all housekeepers ; but you will have sardine 
 toast — a rarity with almost every one. Wipe 
 the skin off the sardines with a dry cloth. The 
 toasted bread is free from all crust, mind, and 
 it is spread with butter mixed with lemon 
 juice and chopped parsley. The sardines are 
 laid on it, and the whole arrangement set in 
 the oven to heat. 
 
 Just as tempting a bouchee is an anchovy Anchovy 
 toast. Chop the anchovies, and add to them ^""s* 
 bits of parsley, a suspicion of onion juice, a 
 
70 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 few drops of lemon juice, and some paprika. 
 Spread this on toast which has been buttered, 
 and heat quickly in the oven. 
 Tunny-Fish Then, there 's tunny-fish always to be 
 depended upon to furnish an impromptu 
 dish that seems like one planned long before. 
 Drain it from the oil in which it is preserved. 
 Lay it on a dish, sprinkle with lemon juice, 
 chopped parsley, and capers ; and keep your 
 eyes open for the admiring glances your guests 
 will be trying to hide from you when they 
 first taste of it. 
 
 Then smoked, boneless herring, you know, 
 are good almost any way ; but broiled till 
 they curl up a bit over a hot fire, and 
 sent to table flanked by olives, water crackers, 
 and a bottle or two of lager beer, they are 
 leaders. 
 
 Of course, with two or three kinds of 
 devilled meats in the house the making of 
 sandwiches, even at short notice, is just a pas- 
 time ; and with all the crackers now to be had 
 it would be foolish to waste tears over the ab- 
 sence of bread. In fact, the world, the mar- 
 ket, and the grocery store are filled to the 
 brim with substitutes nowadays — substitutes 
 that make it easy to forget originals. 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 71 
 
 Although 't is by signs of promises soon to 
 be richly fulfilled that a market interests me 
 chiefly at this season, there is no lack even 
 to-day of a good supply of edibles, both sub- 
 stantial and delicate, and do I go a-marketing 
 determined to buy everything on an economi- 
 cal basis I find Dame Nature and the market- 
 man in league to help me furnish forth my 
 table daintily and inexpensively. Or, if in a 
 reckless mood of extravagance I betake my- 
 self to the vendor of viands, I find him and 
 the dear old dame quite as helpful in carry- 
 ing out my plans. 
 
 Naturally, in trips to market, my methodi- 
 cal mind leads me to inquire first what is suit- 
 able for breakfast ; what is best calculated to 
 minister to an appetite capricious in the fickle 
 springtime. Numerous answers are forth- 
 coming to my inquiry, the first of which says 
 shad roes made into delicious croquettes with 
 a garnishing of lettuce hearts. Very good, I 
 say, very appropriate, but what else is there ? 
 — every one does n't care for that dish. And 
 then, taking the matter into my own hands, 
 as the marketman is perfectly willing that I 
 should, I peer around to see what is to be 
 had, and make notes mentally for future use. 
 
72 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 There are mackerel of finest flavor, which, if 
 broiled to a turn and having as an accompani- 
 ment crisp, fresh radishes, are fit to put before 
 a king. Another breakfast dish, which is also 
 quite good enough for any royal person, is of 
 kidneys broiled on skewers with alternate 
 slices of bacon. A bit of parsley serves not 
 only to decorate this last dish, but forms a 
 piquant relish for it, and relishes for breakfast 
 dishes are more of a necessity now than at 
 any other season. The orange juice which 
 has proved so potent an appetizer when the 
 mercury ranges near to zero, fails to supply 
 the needed zest for a springtime morning meal, 
 and we must have recourse to a fresh green 
 vegetable, in addition. 
 
 From breakfast fare to luncheon dishes I 
 turn my attention logically, and learn that 
 sweetbreads are particularly fine just now in 
 whatever way they are served, but in my 
 opinion they are never quite so good as when 
 simmered gently in butter and served with 
 cream sauce, to which has been added a few 
 fresh mushrooms. 
 
 Spring chickens, tender and toothsome if 
 broiled as they should be, are worthy of an 
 honored place at any luncheon, and the mar- 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 73 
 
 ketman tells me those lately received are of 
 excellent quality. 
 
 That dainty of dainties, in the estimation 
 of many people, frogs' legs, if broiled or served 
 with a cream sauce, appeals to the most fas- 
 tidious palate. And just now they are not 
 only plentiful and in fine condition, but are 
 quite inexpensive. 
 
 A dish which we cannot always obtain, and 
 which is especially suitable for a midday meal, 
 is of the Taunton River alewives smoked; 
 they should be broiled, and there should be 
 served with them, without fail, a potato salad 
 made from the Bermuda potatoes, which are 
 exceptionally desirable at this season. 
 
 In the ordering of a dinner I have always 
 maintained that though it consists of only 
 two courses, there is an opportunity for the 
 exercise of great discretion. A knowledge of 
 the eternal fitness of things is essential above 
 all else in order to arrange a dinner at 
 which the courses shall not be at war with 
 each other. A certain famous lawyer re- 
 marked in my hearing not long ago that " he 
 knew women who could play whist and play 
 it as it should be, and he knew women who 
 could order a dinner fit for the gods, but 
 
74 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 never had he known and never did he expect 
 to know, a woman who could do both." Per- 
 haps he was right, but I believe there are 
 women in plenty who are quite capable of 
 doing both to perfection. 
 
 At this season, with oysters almost out of 
 the running, little-neck clams may be depended 
 upon to whet the appetite, while the soup 
 which follows must be at once delicate and 
 yet so rich that the first spoonful enchants. 
 If the next course is to be of bluefish, or of 
 salmon, or of striped bass, all of which are in 
 first-class condition in this month, potatoes 
 should be served in any desired shape if the 
 fish is to be boiled or braised; should it be 
 broiled or fried, then by all means let its 
 accompaniment be cucumbers, which are plen- 
 tiful, and are sold at a comparatively low 
 figure, by now. 
 
 If you follow my advice you will avoid the 
 heavy, clumsy, and unimaginative joint. De- 
 cide rather upon ducklings to be roasted or 
 broiled, or upon squabs; or, if these are a 
 thought too expensive, choose fowl, which 
 should be good and plentiful. Have it par- 
 boiled and then fried Maryland style, or 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 75 
 
 fricasseed, or boil it till quite tender and serve 
 with a caper sauce. 
 
 As for vegetables, just now, and for several 
 weeks to come, nothing can be better than 
 asparagus, which improves, and is less expen- 
 sive every day. Frequently I tire of it served 
 on toast, in which case, after boiling it, I 
 moisten it with melted butter, sprinkle grated 
 Parmesan over the top and brown it in the 
 oven. Or, if I wish to serve it as a salad, I 
 have it ice-cold and pour over it a dressing 
 made of oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt, with a 
 suspicion of French mustard added. 
 
 For salads, tomatoes, perhaps, have first 
 choice, for they are really very fine, coming 
 in from the hothouses fresh every day. Water- 
 cress is at its best estate, and whether it be 
 served as a salad or taken simply with a grain 
 of salt, it is a delicacy worthy of honor. 
 
 It is hardly possible to serve fruit out of 
 place at dinner ; before the soup it is appe- 
 tizing, as a compote for an entree it is highly 
 delectable, while at dessert its presence is 
 time-honored, and I would that there were 
 more varieties in market just now. However, 
 the strawberries and pineapples due are quite 
 
76 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 sufficient to console us for the absence of 
 other fruits. 
 
 With that most delicious vegetable aspara- 
 gus as good and as plenty as it is bound to 
 be for two months or so longer, it is but a 
 waste of time to search for any other vegetable 
 to take its place. The truth is, it hasn't a 
 rival, and it never had one — even in Pliny's 
 day, when it grew wild. But gardeners in those 
 days cultivated it just as they do now, and it 
 was no uncommon thing for them to produce 
 stalks of which it took but three to weigh a 
 pound. If any gardeners do raise such mam- 
 moth specimens in these days they keep very 
 quiet about it. But perhaps they don't taste any 
 better than smaller ones. Why should they? 
 
 It will do to have asparagus boiled, just 
 plainly boiled, two out of every three times 
 that you have it. But the third times are 
 those of which I would talk., 
 Asparagus Suppose you cut off the tips into inch 
 Tips in lengths, and boil very slowly in salted water 
 till tender. Then drain and let get perfectly 
 cold, after which you brown them a bit in 
 butter in a frying pan. At the first threat to 
 become brown cover the asparagus with cream, 
 heat well and serve on toasted bread. 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 77 
 
 If this does n't satisfy you for a third try Asparagus 
 another way. Cut the asparagus up just the g^*^/"'''"'^ 
 same and boil with it a few new green peas 
 and some shredded lettuce. Season with pep- 
 per and salt, and flavor with a few drops of 
 onion juice. Add an ounce or two of melted 
 butter to them after draining off the water in 
 which they were boiled, pour over them half 
 a pint of white sauce thickened, and then go 
 ahead with the serving on toast. 
 
 Then you can boil the asparagus tips and Baked 
 heap them mound shape in a baking dish, Asparagus 
 pour through them a Hollandaise or a Bear- 
 naise sauce, cover the top with grated Par- 
 mesan cheese and brown in a hot oven. 
 
 But for asparagus salad be sure that after Asparagus 
 the tips are taken from the boiling water they *"'""' 
 are plunged into ice water. Then cover, when 
 serving, with a French dressing in which has 
 been stirred a little French mustard. 
 
 Or take some asparagus tips boiled and Asparagus 
 cooled and serve them on shaved ice with a *"'"'' ^ 
 dressing of salt, lemon juice, and horse-radish, or 
 tabasco, and with a little bit of your most charm- 
 ing -persiflage you will be able to persuade some 
 of your followers that you have produced an 
 excellent substitute for little-neck clams. 
 
MAY 
 
 ■ Some laid 'John, print it,' others said, 'Not so,'' 
 Some said ' It might do good,'' others said « No.' 
 
 I 
 
 T 'S the month when, by a logical amount 
 of reasoning, the housekeeper is per- 
 suaded that she can easily treat her 
 family to roasted veal, at least once a week, 
 without any member of it entering a com- 
 plaint. She tries it. The second time serv- 
 ing it threatens to go a-begging, and the third 
 time there is so much left over that it can't 
 be worked up in seven days — when, by her 
 reckoning, another knuckle is due. People 
 do tire of veal in short order, even those who 
 have a liking for it, for some reason or other. 
 I am inclined to think that a good many times 
 the " tired feeling " sets in because of the way 
 it is served — not enough is done to prepare 
 the palate for it 
 
 Veal, then, more than any other roast, needs 
 
 to have the way prepared for it, very gingerly 
 
 Olives with and very delicately. Let us discuss a way 
 
 Caviare fg^ doing this. First, have pitted olives that 
 
 you have filled with caviare. Rest these olives 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 79 
 
 on little rounds of toast that have been spread 
 with caviare, and sprinkled with lemon juice. 
 
 Now, for a soup. Soak over night a pint of Puree of 
 green dried peas. Drain, and cook in plenty ^®"* ""'' 
 of fresh water till perfectly tender. Then press 
 through a sieve. Have cooked, at the same 
 time, a peck of spinach, and press through a 
 sieve also. Then put the two purees to- 
 gether, season with salt and pepper ; heat well, 
 adding half a pint of milk. Just before 
 taking up, pour in a pint of cream, and serve 
 with tiny squares of fried bread in the tureen. 
 Ever heard of this before ? It 's a soup that 
 is rich and delicate, but not so hearty that it 
 does more than whet the appetite for what is 
 to follow. 
 
 Shall we say salmon comes next ? It 's a Mayonnaise 
 thought high as yet, perhaps, but you only '^^j"^°''^^' 
 need a little of it — a pound for four, where 
 a roast is to follow. But, to tell the truth, 
 my insisting on your having it comes almost 
 wholly from a desire I have to tell you of a 
 new sauce for boiled or broiled salmon. It is 
 nothing more than mayonnaise, a half pint, 
 with a heaping tablespoonful of horse-radish 
 stirred through it. Oh, you will like it fast 
 
8o I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 enough ! And you will like it with cold 
 salmon, just as well. 
 
 By the time the fish is a thing of the past, 
 you will all be ready for the roasted veal. 
 Duchesse On this, of course, you have had tied thin 
 Sauce gijj,gg Qf g^ii; pork before it is roasted. With 
 it, will you have a duchesse sauce ? I think 
 you will. For this you have a pint of good 
 stock, thickened a bit with butter braided with 
 flour. After it is heated, there is added to it 
 a wineglass of any white wine. 
 Onion Sauce Or, if I have made a mistake, and you will 
 have none of it, do let me suggest an onion 
 sauce. Peel and chop three onions, and let 
 simmer in plenty of butter, closely cov- 
 ered, for an hour. Let them brown, a trifle, 
 at the last, and add a tablespoonful of flour 
 with pepper and salt. Then add to them half 
 a pint each of white stock and cream. Pour 
 this into the pan in which the veal was roasted, 
 after it is taken out, set the pan on top of the 
 range and let boil gently for five minutes. 
 It 's an improved sauce Soubise, you may say, 
 if any of your guests are led to ask the name 
 of it. But, if they ask for directions for mak- 
 ing it, don't ^ve them up. Advise, instead. 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 8i 
 
 buying this book to learn, as you did, how to 
 concoct such a bit of deliciousness. 
 
 Really, I would n't have more than one vege- 
 table with the veal, and that asparagus, as 
 it's the season for it. Or, have something 
 else, if you prefer, and have an asparagus 
 salad. 
 
 For the dessert, why not a rhubarb sher- Rhubarb 
 bet? Cut up two pounds of it, and boil °^^''''^* 
 with a few drops of water and plenty of sugar, 
 the rind of a lemon, and a little liquid carmine 
 to color it prettily. Let this get cool ; strain 
 through a sieve, and add to it a pint of claret 
 and two tablespoonfuls of rum. Freeze, and 
 have ready to decorate it, when serving, some 
 strips of candied ginger. You will find it all 
 that you have reason to think it should be, 
 coming from this source. 
 
 But, if you prefer an apricot charlotte, it Apricot 
 shall be my pleasure to tell you how to make Charlotte 
 one. Line the same charlotte mould you 
 always use with sponge drops, or fingers, care- 
 fully trimmed to fit. In fact, you want to 
 give them a regular tailor-made fit. Then fill 
 with a pint of preserved apricots, which have 
 been stewed till tender enough to rub through 
 a sieve. Stir into it an ounce of gelatine, dis- 
 
82 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 solved in a little water. Let it get perfectly 
 cool, and then whip into it a pint of already 
 whipped cream. Turn into the mould and 
 set away to harden. And you have the most 
 ungrateful family in the neighborhood if they 
 don't count this dinner as a red-letter event 
 in their lives. 
 
 Think you that upon one of these morn- 
 ings, when the mercury shows a sullen deter- 
 mination to do nothing but climb, climb, climb, 
 you can prepare a more tempting dish for 
 breakfast than one of shrimps, which have 
 been boiled in fresh water, then salted and 
 cooled, and finally sent to table upon chopped 
 ice ? You will find them at the market for 
 the rest of this month, at least, in excellent 
 condition, and at a reasonable price. And 
 should you elect to serve them according to 
 the foregoing suggestion, place near them on 
 the table a dish of crisp, fresh watercress, 
 lightly piled, ministering thereby to the eye's 
 pleasure as well as to the appetite's desire. 
 
 But if, some fine morning, a breath of win- 
 ter comes o'er the land, via an east wind, then 
 you will, perhaps, crave food served hot, in 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 83 
 
 which case have veal cutlets (veal is in fine Broiled Veai 
 shape now) ; dip them in melted butter and ^"*'^*' 
 then broil over the coals ; you will find this 
 an infinitely better way of cooking them than 
 by frying, which so many housekeepers con- 
 sider the standard method. Or, if you do 
 not care for veal, try thin slices of bacon, 
 broiled, and served on toasted graham bread. 
 As a fruit, for leading up to either of these 
 dishes, I think you will prefer pineapples, for 
 they are of delicious quality now, and sold at 
 a price which also recommends them to your 
 notice. Quite as appetizing, however, you 
 might find cherries, but, though they are of 
 fairly good flavor, they are a bit expensive, as 
 they have a right to be, coming from such a 
 distance. 
 
 It is with intent and purpose that I do not 
 suggest that everlasting Americanism, beef- 
 steak for breakfast ; to my mind, it seems far 
 more suitable for the luncheon table, and just 
 now, with mushrooms so plenty, and as inex- 
 pensive as they ever are, a well-broiled, tender, 
 juicy sirloin steak, with a mushroom sauce, 
 makes a dish fit for the gods, and yet not a whit 
 too good for human nature's daily food. Just 
 as good, in its way, for luncheon, is a herring 
 
84 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 Herring salad, made of smoked herring. Omit the 
 " use of caviare, which many cook-books recom- 
 mend, for you want nothing that will en- 
 croach upon the flavor of the herring, but 
 rather something which will act as its com- 
 plement. For this purpose use one-third cold 
 sliced potatoes to two-thirds herring, a plen- 
 tiful sprinkling of capers, and the ordinary 
 oil and vinegar dressing, with the salt put in 
 by a miserly hand. Another salad, suitable for 
 luncheon, especially if cold tongue is served, 
 is made of the little Bermuda onions, which 
 are abundant now; they should be minced 
 finely and served ice-cold to win your highest 
 admiration. 
 Balled And now, just one more dish before 
 Chicken Hash leaving the luncheon table. Have you ever 
 prepared a baked-chicken hash? If not, 
 allow me to suggest that you chop quite finely 
 the cold meat of chicken or fowl, season it 
 with salt and white pepper, moisten it with 
 cream or with milk and butter, scatter bread- 
 crumbs over the top and brown in the oven, 
 and behold, you have one of the homeliest 
 dishes in the annals of housekeepers glorified 
 to suit the palate of a veritable epicure. 
 Whenever, at this season of the year, I go 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 85 
 
 to market in search of fish for the dinner-table, 
 it is only by the exercise of great will power 
 that I am able to refrain from buying soft-shell 
 crabs. They are so deliciousj whether broiled 
 or fried, that it seems positively wicked they 
 should be so expensive. Still, the fish dealer 
 assures me that almost any day the price 
 may " break " and, other fish being plentiful, 
 we can afford to wait patiently for the " drop." 
 Delicious trout, of either the lake or brook 
 variety, are abundant, and in whatever way 
 they are served are one of the pleasures of the 
 present day. 
 
 Although the month of roses is generdly 
 known as the month of salmon, it is in first- 
 class condition now, and obtainable at a fairly 
 low figure. No other fish is so capable of re- 
 serving ; little scraps left may be warmed in 
 cream and served on toast for breakfast, made 
 into a salad for luncheon, or shaped into cro- 
 quettes for dinner the following day. 
 
 In the vernacular of the marketman, "spring 
 lamb is getting down on to the earth." Which, 
 being interpreted for ears polite, means that 
 the price is getting lower each week, but that 
 the flavor remains unsurpassed ; in fact " none 
 but itself can be its parallel." Bits of lamb 
 
86 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 left from dinner may be prepared in the way 
 suggested for baked-chicken hash, and will, I 
 am sure, merit your favor. 
 
 When lamb is suggested, there follows, as 
 a natural sequence, the thought of green peas ; 
 and if the peas in market to-day were only as 
 good as they look, the thought would be a 
 happy one. As matters stand, however, for 
 those who know not the delight of eating peas 
 in less than three hours from the time they 
 are gathered from the vines, the representa- 
 tives of this vegetable to be had now will pass 
 muster. For myself, I prefer either cauli- 
 flower or egg plant, both of them plenty and 
 in good condition now. The former if boiled 
 and served with a white sauce, or baked with 
 cheese is especially gratifying when served 
 with a roast of lamb, while the egg-plant will 
 be quite as much of a success if broiled, or 
 stuffed and baked. 
 
 Of course asparagus has attained perfection, 
 and is so in evidence on every hand that it is 
 not necessary to mention it here. However, 
 there are many persons of the belief that it is 
 impossible to have too much of a good thing, 
 and most decidedly asparagus is entitled to 
 come under that head. 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 87 
 
 Shall I tell you of three little dinners and 
 how to make them grow ? Give ear, then, 
 and you may hear. The first shall have a 
 foundation of tomato soup. Now please 
 don't make a wry face and begin to say un- 
 kind things about tomato soup having a past 
 until you have heard me through ; for I want 
 to tell you of an economical and really deli- 
 cious way of making this soup that is not 
 known to every one. Just at this season 
 almost all housekeepers will be sure to have 
 on hand two or three kinds of cooked vege- 
 tables, little scraps of each I mean. Now, 
 suppose the list to comprise three new pota- Savory 
 toes, boiled, half a cupful of string beans and Tomato Soup 
 about the same quantity of green peas ; to 
 these, or to any others which you may prefer 
 to use, should be added two raw onions finely 
 minced and a handful of chopped parsley. 
 Put them into a saucepan with two ounces of 
 butter, a sprinkling of pepper and salt, and, 
 after they have simmered for ten minutes, add 
 a can of tomatoes. Season then with a tea- 
 spoonful of whole allspice, a tablespoonfiil of 
 sugar, and more pepper and salt if need be, 
 and cook slowly for half an hour. At the 
 end of that time strain through a fine hair 
 
88 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 sieve, put back on the stove and thicken 
 with a scant teaspoonful of cornstarch mixed 
 with a teaspoonful of melted butter. Have 
 little sippets of fried bread in the soup tureen, 
 pour the soup over them and serve. And 
 there you have a soup possessed of all the 
 flavors that make a tomato soup worth the eat- 
 ing, while it has none of the heaviness of 
 soup made with a rich stock. 
 
 And the next dish for dinner No. i shall 
 be of dainty little lamb chops broiled to a 
 turn. Have in the centre of the platter a 
 mound of mashed potato, lean the chops 
 against it, and serve in this way. 
 
 With the chops serve string beans. Boil 
 ^them till tender in salted water, drain them 
 and put into a saucepan with two ounces 
 of butter and two tablespoonfuls of cream to a 
 quart of beans. Cook them for three minutes 
 and send to the table very hot. 
 Asparagus It would be a sin and a shame to arrange a 
 dinner at this time of year without providing 
 for the serving of asparagus. Even though 
 the dinner is to consist of one course only, 
 that course should be of asparagus. But in 
 the dinner which we are now planning it is to 
 make its appearance at the third course as a 
 
 Salad 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 89 
 
 salad. It must be boiled till quite tender, 
 then chilled for three or four hours on the ice, 
 cut into inch lengths, and served with a dress- 
 ing of the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs 
 beaten up with three tablespoonfuls of oil, two 
 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, a saltspoonful of 
 salt and the same quantity of French mustard. 
 
 The last course shall include strawberries 
 served in some way. Have them plain, with 
 sugar and cream, and serve with them narrow 
 strips of delicate puff paste ; or make little 
 tartlets, and when they are done lift the cov- 
 ers and put a teaspoonful of whipped cream 
 into each. 
 
 And the cost of dinner No. i ? Well, at 
 the price of " comestible wares " at this season, 
 this dinner should not cost over one dollar for 
 four persons. And really it will not require 
 very close figuring to bring it within that sum. 
 
 But if that seems too small an amount to 
 expend for a dinner intended to give pleasure 
 to four persons, there will be no trouble in 
 planning one to cost rather more. And for Bisque of 
 the first course let us have a bisque of clams. Clama 
 Get a quart of clams and a small piece of veal, 
 about a pound of it. Cook the veal in a little 
 more than a pint of water and the liquor 
 
9° I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 drained from the clams. Season with one 
 onion, a sprig of parsley, a bay leaf, salt, and 
 white pepper. Cook very slowly for one 
 hour, then strain and again place it in 
 the kettle; rub a couple of tablespoonfuls 
 of butter with an equal amount of flour and 
 add to the soup when boiling. Chop up 
 the clams very fine, and put them into the 
 soup ; let it boil for five minutes and then add 
 half a pint of cream. Heat thoroughly, but 
 don't let it boil after adding the cream, and 
 serve. And after you have partaken of this 
 I '11 warrant you will be ready to declare 
 that Grimod de la Reyniere had this especial 
 kind of potage in mind when he said : " Soup 
 is not only the commencement of a feast, but 
 gives an idea of what is to follow." 
 
 And its close follower in this instance 
 should be some delicious little ducklings 
 roasted. With the ducklings have new pota- 
 toes, from Bermuda or from the South, 
 plainly boiled. And have, too, some aspara- 
 Asparagua gus — asparagus tops with cheese. Cut the 
 Tops with tender part of the asparagus into inch lengths 
 and cook in salted water till fairly tender; 
 then drain and toss it about over the fire in 
 a frying-pan with a little butter. Dress it on 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 91 
 
 a vegetable dish, spread the surface smoothly 
 with butter into which has been kneaded an 
 equal quantity of grated Parmesan cheese and 
 just a suspicion of cayenne pepper. Brown 
 as quickly as you can in a piping hot oven, 
 and serve. 
 
 And now for the salad. Does one of let- Lettuce 
 tuce strike you favorably ? If so, prepare it ^"'""^ ""** 
 with a French dressing, as you always do, but 
 after it is dressed sprinkle over it all some 
 finely chopped chives. My word for it, 
 you '11 find this a great improvement over the 
 ordinary lettuce salad. 
 
 A tempting dessert with which to wind up Frozen 
 this dinner would be frozen strawberries with Strawberries 
 whipped cream. Let me tell you how to pre- 
 pare the dish, and see what you think about 
 it. Make a syrup of a third of a pint of sugar 
 and a pint of water. Into the syrup put a 
 quart of fine ripe strawberries and let boil 
 for five minutes. Then freeze the mixture. 
 Whip half a pint of cream, work it into the 
 strawberries, and serve in as dainty a fashion 
 as possible. 
 
 And the amount of money required to fur- 
 nish forth a table with dinner No. 2 ? Not a 
 cent over two dollars for four persons. 
 
92 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 But, for fear that to many that may seem 
 too small an amount for just the kind of 
 dinner they want to give, I will try again. 
 Since we have decided that asparagus must 
 appear in some form at every dinner while its 
 season lasts, we will start dinner No. 3 with 
 Asparagus asparagus soup. This is made by cooking the 
 '' tender parts of the asparagus in salted water 
 for a few minutes. Before they get quite ten- 
 der drain till dry and cold. If there are two 
 bunches of asparagus put them into a saucepan 
 with four ounces of butter, two finely chopped 
 onions, a lump of sugar, and a little white 
 pepper. Moisten with a pint of white broth 
 and let cook for ten minutes. Then rub 
 through a sieve, heat again and serve. 
 
 After the soup, crabs — soft-shell crabs 
 dipped in beaten egg and crumbs and fried. 
 Serve nothing but tartar sauce with them. 
 Then have a couple of cunning little spring 
 Green Peas chickens broiled. Have new potatoes chopped 
 with Mint ^^^ baked in cream served with the chickens, 
 and have also new green peas. Try boiling 
 with them a small bunch of mint and a small 
 onion, both of which are to be removed 
 before the peas are served. You will find 
 that the peas have acquired a delightful flavor 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 93 
 
 from their contact with the other vegetables. 
 Of course salt and pepper and butter are to 
 be added as when they are cooked in the ordi- 
 nary way. 
 
 For a salad have some hothouse tomatoes 
 peeled and sliced ; lay them on a flat dish, and 
 on each slice heap a little chopped lettuce 
 mixed with mayonnaise. 
 
 Let us borrow the dessert from dinner 
 
 No. 2 to put the finishing touch to this last 
 
 dinner. I don't know a better one, but if you 
 
 *** . - - 
 
 do there 's nothing to prevent your usmg it. 
 
 And, do your best, if you are to serve 
 dinner No. 3 for four persons you cannot 
 make it cost over three dollars. 
 
 Are you satisfied, now, that I know how to 
 make dinners grow ? 
 
JUNE 
 
 "For her oivn breakfast she'll project a scheme. 
 Nor take her tea •without a stratagem.''' 
 
 " ^^^ LAMS are good and plentiful now," 
 ciama West ■ g^jj ^j^g flg^ dealer one day, and as 
 
 island style V_ J t ■ ^ r r ■ \ 
 
 ^^-^ I was m the frame of mind to take 
 him at his word I hastily ran over in my 
 mind the various ways in which this delecta- 
 ble fish may be prepared, the while I ordered 
 from him the quantity I thought I could use. 
 It does n't take very long to sum up the gastro- 
 nomical possibilities of the clam that are cher- 
 ished in the minds of most housekeepers, you 
 will admit. But, with time and opportunity 
 favoring, there is room for expansion of ideas 
 with regard to clams. For instance, this is 
 one way to expand : Poach, say, a pint of them 
 in their own liquor, then drain off the liquor, 
 adding to the clams milk thickened with egg 
 yolks and seasoned with pepper and salt ; 
 forget economy and put in the butter you 
 know it requires to make the flavor perfect, 
 and on top of all have some tiny rice cro- 
 quettes. You can't know till you try it just 
 what this dish may reveal served at breakfast. 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 95 
 
 But I will not spoil the story by telling you in 
 advance. If, however, it 's for luncheon that 
 you would be thinking of having them cooked 
 in this way, add the juice of an onion to 
 them. 
 
 If you trust to me so far as to adopt the fore- Clam and 
 going way of cooking clams you certainly will i?''f/^'^'" 
 try this next way of preparing them at the 
 slightest provocation. Have as many as you 
 like and chop them. Add to them an equal 
 quantity of chopped boiled lobster. Sprinkle 
 in some parsley, also chopped, and butter to 
 the amount above recommended. Season 
 with white pepper and salt, and with the mix- 
 ture fill some of the deepest clam shells, 
 sprinkle bread crumbs over the top and brown 
 in a hot oven. This may be counted on at 
 any time for a luncheon dish when you are 
 planning to go some persons who have enter- 
 tained you at least one better. 
 
 Before I forget it I am going to tell you of Stuffed 
 a dish that to my sorrow is rather uncommon, " ® .^ 
 even among those who think they dine well. 
 It 's nothing less than a stuflfed, baked cucum- 
 ber — that is, those are the essentials of the 
 dish. The potentials are to be classified by 
 you after you have partaken of it. Cut the 
 
9S I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 cucumbers in two lengthwise without peeling 
 them, scoop out all the seeds, and fill to heap- 
 ing each half with a highly seasoned mixture 
 of bread crumbs ; moisten with melted butter 
 and brown in a hot oven. Vary this stuffing 
 at your own sweet will — add a few chopped 
 olives or some chopped pimientos — Spanish 
 sweet peppers you know — but have bread 
 crumbs enough to insure the dish getting 
 browned in shape. 
 ffied If the idea of cooking cucumbers assimi- 
 Cucumbers lates itself harmoniously with your ideas of 
 gastronomy you may not hesitate to try a 
 dish of fried cucumbers. And don't let any 
 one infect your mind with the idea that they are 
 especially indigestible. They 're not. Peel 
 them first, then slice them into quarter-inch 
 slices, say, then dip in beaten egg, then in 
 crumbs, and then fry to a delicate brown in a 
 little butter. Try either way of cooking the 
 cucumbers with a tender spring chicken 
 broiled. For if you are not deprived of your 
 rights nowadays you should be finding " broil- 
 ers " in good condition and not too high in 
 price. You see of game there is little to be 
 said in the Eastern markets during this 
 month ; so if you are trying to do the hand- 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 97 
 
 some thing in the bird line you Ve not much 
 of a list from which to make a selection. To 
 be sure you have a right to inquire at market 
 for brant just now, come to think of it. You 
 will be apt to find them, and in good condi- 
 tion, too. Roasted shall we say? With 
 them new potatoes of course. Don't tell me 
 you can't afford them, I know better. And 
 you can also afford to secure some new sum- 
 mer squash to go with the roasted brant. 
 Don't ask me where it comes from. I only 
 know that in every up-to-date market it is on 
 sale. So are young, sweet little carrots that 
 appeal to you for a white cream sauce like 
 that you serve with cauliflower. 
 
 By now you may reasonably be ordering 
 blackberries if you are longing for a change. 
 But my advice is to stick to the strawberry 
 while it will stick to you. By the way, if you 
 are to " do up " strawberries, get the first 
 " natives " that come to town. Get them, you 
 know, before they are soft from overripeness, 
 and next winter when set on your table just 
 as they are, or with the syrup of them jellied 
 with a bit of gelatine, you will see the wisdom 
 of being forehanded with them. 
 
98 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 " Give us breakfasts ; tell us housekeepers 
 what we can put before our families for the 
 first meal of the day in summer that shall 
 drive away the morning sulks." 
 
 Thus did a matron young neither in years 
 nor in experience beseech me as I set out for 
 market one day. And while I was parleying 
 with the marketman as to the ways and means 
 and the whys and wherefores of things edible 
 that plaintive " Give us breakfasts " rang so 
 insistently in my ears that I could pay no 
 attention to viands essentially suitable for 
 later meals, but fell to thinking and planning 
 breakfasts which should be antidotes — anti- 
 dotes for that ill which more than any other 
 human ailment is strengthened by recognition, 
 the " morning sulks." 
 
 And my first definite plan took shape in 
 this wise : Cherries, for this is the month far 
 excellence for that delicious fruit, cherries with 
 some green leaves piled upon cracked ice in 
 such a manner that the sight of them re- 
 freshes, while to taste of them leads one to 
 think "All's well with the world." And 
 then, to follow, there must be croquettes of 
 fish ; all kinds are so abundant now that it is 
 only a case of paying one's money and taking 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 99 
 
 one's choice. But whatever fish is chosen, 
 the croquettes should be smaller than those 
 for use at luncheon or dinner, for the eye is 
 repelled at breakfast-time by sight of large 
 portions. With croquettes the daintiest and 
 lightest parsley omelette imaginable should be 
 served, it seems to me, and there you have a 
 simple breakfast, easy of accomplishment, but 
 one sure to be appreciated by King Sulks 
 himself. 
 
 My second plan, when it assumes tangible 
 shape, shall be Hke this : Watermelons, not 
 cut up into ungainly chunks with juice and 
 seeds playing at hide-and-seek in one's plate, 
 but with the pretty pink portion cut into two- iced 
 inch cubes, say, with all the seeds removed, Watermelon 
 and sent to table after being well cooled, fan- 
 cifully piled on shaven ice. If you don't 
 mind a little fuss and bother, you may after it 
 is cut up sprinkle the melon well with pow- 
 dered sugar, put it into the freezer and frappe 
 but not freeze it, and then send it to table. 
 To the palates of many of this day and gen- 
 eration watermelon well chilled comes as a 
 boon, for the best of men now and then are 
 afflicted with a thirst these warm mornings 
 which nothing save ice-water seems to quench, 
 
loo I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 but the physicians and moralists have held 
 forth at such length on the subject that one 
 feels like a guilty thing upon taking a drink 
 of cold water before breaking fast. Now you 
 are going to ask what will be quite good 
 enough to follow watermelon, and for answer 
 Fried Chicken I shall recommend chicken, or fowl, boiled the 
 with Cream previous day, and cut into neat pieces, then 
 browned well in butter, with hot cream poured 
 over it just before it is sent to the table. If 
 you want a delightful adjunct for the chicken, 
 let it be cold asparagus, with lemon juice and 
 salt sprinkled over it. If you have never 
 partaken of cold asparagus at breakfast, there 
 is a new pleasure in store for you, for good as 
 this vegetable is hot at dinner or luncheon, it 
 seems especially apt when served cold in the 
 morning. 
 
 Quite as attractive, and simpler in prepara- 
 tion, perhaps, you will find my third recipe 
 for an antidote, it goes something like this : 
 To begin with, blackberries, growing better 
 and more abundant every day ; to follow the 
 blackberries smoked beef tossed in hot cream 
 which has been seasoned with cayenne pepper, 
 and thickened a trifle with corn starch, and — 
 as a complement for the smoked beef you will 
 
I GO A-MARKETING loi 
 
 desire something sour — try watercress dressed 
 with lemon juice and salt, unless you are so 
 enamored of tomatoes that you prefer them to 
 any other vegetable in the morning, now. 
 
 My next (really I don't mean this to read 
 like an enigma) idea if you choose to put it 
 into action will cause your breakfast table to 
 answer to this description : Raspberries, sweet- 
 ened a bit, tossed in whipped cream and put 
 into paper cases which come on purpose for 
 the carrying out of dainty table schemes, and 
 then chilled on the ice for at least an hour 
 before serving. Trouble? Oh, yes, there's 
 some trouble involved, but your reward will 
 be swift and sure, my word for it. Something 
 exceptionally dainty and palate-appealing must 
 follow the raspberries so prepared, and how 
 does the thought of veal, minced finely and 
 seasoned perfectly, with poached eggs on top, 
 coincide with your idea of the fitness of 
 things ? 
 
 Very soon we shall have currants in abun- 
 dance, and it has always seemed to me that 
 when one is to have ham for breakfast they go 
 particularly well for a first course. And the 
 ham is entitled to different treatment in sum- 
 mer from that which it receives in the cold 
 
102 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 Ham Toast weather. For instance, just now if you 
 have slices of toast and sprinkle lightly 
 over them grated ham mixed with grated 
 cheese, and then put them in a hot oven till 
 the cheese is dissolved, your family will be 
 your debtor to the extent of one new and dis- 
 tinct gastronomical emotion. 
 
 Gooseberry You will soon be able to get desirable goose- 
 Cream bgrries in the market, and while the average 
 housekeeper will be engaged in reckoning their 
 possibilities if" baked in a pie," you will, if you 
 but follow my advice, cook them in sugar till 
 tender, strain through a sieve, cool the puree, 
 then boil it down and cool once more, that it 
 may be in readiness for the next morning's 
 breakfast, served with whipped cream flavored 
 with lemon. You will find that this will pave 
 the way excellently for a fine bluefish, properly 
 broiled, and flanked by a tomato omelet. 
 
 It is not in my province at present to pre- 
 scribe the diflferent cakes, muffins, and rolls 
 that should accompany the foregoing dishes, 
 for every cook-book sets forth an array of 
 such recipes from which to select one for every 
 day in the year. Neither do I presume tb 
 suggest to any woman in what she shall be 
 clothed. No, when I go into the subject of 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 103 
 
 dress for the breakfast table it will be to ex- 
 ploit my ideas upon the way that men should 
 array themselves. 
 
 Whatever other faults the out-of-season 
 strawberry may have it cannot be said of it 
 that it induces satiety. And I wonder if the 
 season of " natives " could be long enough to 
 have that effect on the palate. Probably. But 
 this is n't the place to go into a discussion of 
 that side of the question. 
 
 Serving strawberries is or should be an 
 every-day occurrence while the season lasts. 
 I have told you in other places of two or three 
 ways of serving them that I hope you found 
 worthy a place among your collection of re- 
 cipes for dainty dishes. But I believe I 've strawberry 
 said nothing about strawberry fritters. And ^"^^'^^ 
 in case you have never tried them let me sug- 
 gest that you have them soon prepared 
 in this way : Get the very largest straw- 
 berries you can find. Take off the hulls and 
 cover them entirely with any sort of marma- 
 lade, preferably apricot, then roll them in 
 macaroon crumbs, dip them one at a time into 
 the lightest frying batter you know how to 
 
I04 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 make and fry them in very hot fat. Drain 
 and roll them in powdered sugar before serv- 
 ing. A really delicious dish you will find 
 these fritters, quite good enough to be served 
 at dessert for the very best dinner you know 
 how to arrange. 
 
 It comes to pass sometimes, you know, 
 that one will have on hand a pint or so of 
 strawberries that can hardly be called -passie, 
 still they have lost their pristine freshness and 
 Strawberry show symptoms of becoming soft. Well, the 
 Pudding ^^^^ ^^y ^^ serve them is to heat them through 
 in a little syrup, not letting them lose their 
 shape or their color. Then put them into a 
 pudding dish and cover them with a half-inch 
 layer of bread-crumbs. Make a custard of 
 four eggs and a quart of milk, seasoning it 
 with a little grated nutmeg, pour into the 
 dish with the berries and breadcrumbs and 
 bake for half an hour. It may be served 
 either hot or cold. And you will have reason 
 to be pleased with yourself for having turned 
 out an appetizing sweet, and one that will 
 help you to foster that pet belief of every 
 housekeeper, namely, that you are past mis- 
 tress in the art of domestic economy. 
 
 Another dainty sweet can be made by mash- 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 105 
 
 ing a quart of strawberries with half a pint or so Strawberry 
 
 of sugar, and then letting them stand for half an ''^"^ 
 
 hour while you are making a syrup of half a 
 
 pint of sugar and the same quantity of water. 
 
 When this syrup has boiled twenty minutes 
 
 mix with it an ounce of gelatine dissolved in 
 
 half a pint of water. Take the syrup from 
 
 the fire and strain the strawberries through a 
 
 fine sieve into it. Stand the bowl containing 
 
 the mixture on the ice and whip briskly for 
 
 five minutes, then add the whipped whites of 
 
 four eggs and keep right on beating till it has 
 
 the grace to thicken. Then turn it into a 
 
 number of small moulds or one large one. 
 
 When it is to be served unmould on the 
 
 prettiest dish you own, sprinkle powdered 
 
 sugar over the top and pour a little whipped 
 
 cream round in a fanciful shape for a border. 
 
 If you are going to make a strawberry strawberry 
 salad, and I think you will after I tell you *"'"'' 
 how, you should have the strawberries as fresh 
 as possible. Cut them in halves, and if they 
 are the bouncer variety cut them in quarters. 
 Put them into a basin with as much sugar as 
 you think they will need; to one quart of 
 berries add a wineglass of brandy, a table- 
 spoonful of strained lemon juice, and then 
 
io6 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 pack in ice till they are all but frozen. Dish 
 up in a pile when serving and put a border of 
 whipped cream round the salad. 
 Pear Salad A salad of almost any kind of fruit makes 
 an appetizing dish for luncheon or for dinner. 
 One of pears is really delicious if the pears are 
 peeled, cored, and cut in thin slices, laid in a 
 dish, sprinkled ever so lightly with powdered 
 sugar, and have a few drops of brandy or rum 
 poured over them. Of course this salad, like 
 all others made of fruit, needs to be thoroughly 
 chilled before it is served, to have its appetiz- 
 ing qualities at their best. 
 Pineapple If a pineapple salad seems to you a fitting 
 dessert for the particular luncheon you have 
 in mind, it is easily prepared. Be sure that 
 the pineapples, two of them we '11 say, are 
 perfectly ripe; shred them thoroughly and 
 throw away the core. Put the shredded fruit 
 into a deep glass dish, and pour over it a good 
 half-pint of powdered sugar mixed with a 
 tablespoon each of brandy and cura9oa. This 
 salad should stand for about three hours before 
 serving, so that the sugar may become quite 
 dissolved. 
 
 And a salad of several kinds of fruits makes 
 an altogether charming dish. Try it some 
 
 Salad 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 107 
 
 time. Have half a pound of perfectly ripe Salad of 
 cherries, remove the stalks and stones ; ^^''f'' "' 
 
 1 ■ r 11 Fruits 
 
 have the same quantity of currants, but have 
 
 a part of them red and the other part white, 
 
 just to make the dish a bit prettier, and have 
 
 a quarter of a pound each of raspberries and 
 
 strawberries. Sprinkle over the fruit plenty 
 
 of powdered white sugar and three tablespoons 
 
 of brandy. Shake about lightly that the 
 
 sugar may dissolve before it is served. 
 
 Some day when you have been so fortunate Crystallized 
 as to get some particularly large and good /faspbemes 
 raspberries, fix them up in this way : Hull 
 them, of course, and then dip them one at a 
 time in the beaten white of an egg mixed with 
 a tablespoonful of water. As you take the 
 raspberries from the egg roll them, one at a 
 time, in powdered sugar and put at short dis- 
 tances from each other on a sheet of white 
 paper to become perfectly dry, which will take 
 two or three hours. When dry keep on ice 
 till served for dessert. And a dainty dessert 
 you will find it, my word for it. Strawberries 
 and blackberries, also, may be treated in the 
 same way, but I doubt if they will find the 
 favor that will be shown the raspberries. 
 
 And a raspberry cream is pretty sure to be 
 
Cream 
 
 io8 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 Raspberry a favorite dish in almost any company. It is 
 Cream ^^^ simple, too. Just press the raspberries 
 through a fine sieve to remove the seeds ; 
 mix in well half a pint of cream and sufficient 
 sugar to sweeten. Beat it well, and as fast as 
 froth rises skim it off and put it on a hair 
 sieve. Put the cream that is left in a glass 
 dish, pile the whipped cream on the top, 
 mounting it as high as possible, and serve. 
 Banana Another delicious fruit cream is made by 
 pressing half a dozen bananas through a fine 
 hair sieve into a basin, mixing with the fruit 
 one and one-half pints of cream, flavored with 
 vanilla, and then passing the whole through a 
 fine sieve. Freeze the cream a little — till it 
 just thickens — and then add to it a pint of 
 cream, two tablespoonfuls of sugar and a wine- 
 glassful of Madeira. Keep in the freezer 
 for two or three hours before serving. 
 Peach This you will find is also a tempting way 
 in which to make a peach cream, but if the 
 peaches are not perfectly ripe it will be a good 
 idea to stew them for two or three minutes in a 
 little syrup. The peaches, of course, will need 
 more sugar than the bananas do, but no hard 
 and fast rule can be given for the amount — 
 just sweeten them according to your judgment. 
 
 Cream 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 109 
 
 Have you noticed that with all I 've had to 
 say about strawberries herein, not once have 
 I quoted Dr. Boteler's remark concerning 
 them ? And yet I 've heard it said that a 
 woman finds it as impossible to refrain from 
 mentioning the famous saying when writing 
 about strawberries, if only half a dozen lines, 
 as does a man to omit all mention of Izaak 
 Walton when he has anything to say about 
 going a-fishing. 
 
JULY 
 
 " Unlike my subject noiu shall be my song ; 
 It shall be •witty, and it shan't be long." 
 
 IT was with the thought of Hortensia's 
 garden party weighing somewhat heav- 
 ily on my mind that I made my cus- 
 tomary tour " all on a market day," for she 
 had beseeched me with tears in her voice to 
 plan for her a list of appetizing dishes to put 
 before her guests which should not be so 
 elaborate as though meant for a grand dinner, 
 nor yet so simple as if intended for the 
 refreshment of a Sunday-school picnic. 
 
 Hortensia would, I felt sure, see to it that 
 the piazzas, grounds, and tent-like buffet were 
 so decorated and adorned that one would at 
 once conclude that Flora herself had taken a 
 personal interest in the appointments, and I 
 firmly resolved that, come what would, my 
 part of the programme should be carried out 
 in such a manner that reasonable grounds 
 should be furnished for the supposition that 
 no less a person than Epicurus had had a 
 finger in the pie. Therefore it was with a 
 full appreciation of the responsibility I had 
 
I GO A-MARKETING m 
 
 assumed that I opened negotiations with the 
 marketman. 
 
 As all the world knows, a garden party 
 would n't be much of an affair without game, 
 and fortunately for the hosts and hostesses at 
 such merrymakings, there are in market at Roasted 
 this season now fine doe birds, which may be '^°^ ^"^'^^ 
 seasoned with a little salt, a suspicion of 
 Madeira, roasted in a quick oven, and de- 
 pended on to furnish delight, when thoroughly 
 cooled, to the most captious of guests. 
 
 Another delightful manner of serving game Game Tarts 
 is in the form of tarts — squab or pigeon 
 tarts; line the tart moulds with paste, and 
 then fill with the breasts only of the birds, 
 adding a few slices of mushrooms and moisten- 
 ing with a liquor made by boiling the bones 
 of the birds in a little water well seasoned with 
 salt, a bit of pepper, and a spoonful or two of 
 sherry. Cover the tarts with the paste, have 
 perfectly cold, and unmould before serving. 
 
 Just now one may find tender and tooth- Turkey in 
 some young turkeys in the market stalls, *'"" 
 waiting to do duty at any event to which they 
 may be called, and for the particular occasion 
 in which we are interested at this instant there 
 can be no better way of serving them than by 
 
112 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 boiling till tender and then cutting into small 
 pieces, moulding them with the help of aspic 
 jelly into shapes so attractive that one longs 
 to learn if they can be quite as gratifying to 
 the palate as to the eye. And, by the way, 
 what a godsend aspic jelly is in the prepara- 
 tion of dishes to be served cold ! 
 Beef Tongue Another cold dish which is looked upon as 
 being a sort of commonplace standby is of 
 boiled tongue, but I have found that it is easily 
 raised to a level bordering on the ideal if pre- 
 pared in this way : Boil the beef tongue till 
 tender in water which has been highly sea- 
 soned with vegetables, herbs, and spice; re- 
 move the skin, brush the tongue with beaten 
 egg, strew it thickly with bread-crumbs, and 
 bake for half an hour in a hot oven, basting 
 frequently with port wine. Let it get per- 
 fectly cold before slicing and have the slices 
 as thin as possible. 
 
 Near to the tongue, as a relish for it, and in- 
 deed for all of the foregoing dishes, one's sense 
 of the fitness of things approves the idea of 
 having crisp, thin slices of toast, sprinkled with 
 the finest little bits of green peppers imaginable, 
 and masked with a thin layer of mayonnaise. 
 
 In fact, one, if not the best, way to serve 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 113 
 
 salads at an outdoor festivity, is upon thin 
 slices of toast of white or graham bread, as 
 one chooses. For instance, a lettuce and 
 anchovy salad made by shredding the lettuce 
 and cutting the anchovies in two and dressing 
 with lemon juice and a dash of cayenne, with 
 the yolks of hard-boiled eggs finely minced, 
 seems to call for just such a tiny bit of toast 
 as one gets in this way of serving, to carry out 
 one's idea of perfection in little things. 
 
 And after I had decided that the salads at 
 Hortensia's garden party should be so served, 
 it was quite natural that the idea of sandwiches 
 should suggest itself to my mind ; but before 
 the idea had time to really assume a definite 
 shape I hastily but conclusively rebelled 
 against the prospect of seeing those time- 
 honored edibles set forth for the delectation 
 of Hortensia's guests in the guise of the com- 
 mon or restaurant variety. And this is the French 
 way I overcame what bade fair to be a trouble- Sandwiches 
 some difficulty : Rolls, deliciously fresh French 
 rolls, with a circular piece of the top crust 
 removed and kept whole, while all the soft 
 part of the roll was scooped out to make 
 room for a filling of chicken, lobster, or sar- 
 dines, after which the little cover was put back 
 
114 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 into place, and the comfort and joy of the 
 partaker was an assured thing. 
 
 After the sandwich scheme was fully ar- 
 ranged, it seemed as though the " substan- 
 tial " were well looked out for, and that I must 
 be giving a thought to the fruits which were to 
 make glad the senses of those bidden to the 
 feast. Not any great amount of deep think- 
 ing was required to make a selection, however, 
 for there was an abundance at hand from which 
 to choose ; there were plums, juicy and .sweet, 
 of richest hues — purple, red, and green, 
 and others of the most tempting golden color 
 imaginable, and certainly no well-furnished 
 table could afford to be without either speci- 
 men. Grapes, too, there were in an infinite 
 variety, but for Hortensia's party I chose only 
 black Hamburgs and Muscats. Of course, I 
 knew she must have peaches, and I spent a 
 weary hour in trying to find some that tasted 
 ' as well as they looked, but my labor was in 
 Musk Melon vain. As a compensation for this disappoint- 
 Jei/y ment, however, I found cantaloupes possessing 
 a flavor which can only be expressed by the 
 words " divinely perfect." And I found, too, 
 delicious little musk melons to be prepared in 
 this way : Slice the melon, removing both 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 115 
 
 rind and seeds, put in a preserving pan with a 
 little sugar, and stew to a marmalade ; rub it 
 through a sieve, dissolve in it a sufficient 
 amount of gelatine, and when quite cool mix 
 with it stiffly whipped cream, flavored with 
 a litde essence or liqueur, as one likes. 
 
 Cakes and ices, of course, are as important 
 to the great and unqualified success of a gar- 
 den party as are the guests, and of the former 
 I decided that the varieties known as " Mad- 
 eleines" and "petits fours" would be most 
 acceptable to all concerned, while of the latter 
 there could be no question as to the desirability 
 of mousse with peaches, chocolat parfait, and 
 milk sherbet. 
 
 Of quite as much importance as either of 
 the articles mentioned in the foregoing para- 
 graph are the bonbons, and the advice which 
 I have bestowed upon Hortensia in regard to 
 them I repeat here for the benefit of any who 
 may care to follow it, namely : " Costly thy 
 bonbons as thy purse can buy." 
 
 For out-of-door feasting plenty of drinks Moss Rose 
 should be provided; "cups," whether of claret, 
 hock, or champagne, should be made on the 
 spot and not prepared beforehand, as the taste 
 of stale soda water is absolutely objectionable. 
 
ii6 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 Cider, if iced, is really delicious, while a drink 
 which the English find highly refreshing is 
 called "moss rose," and is made of equal 
 quantities of tea, coffee, and " cup," either of 
 the champagne or claret brand. 
 
 I have a story to tell you. It has nothing 
 of mystery in it, neither need it, necessarily, 
 prove harrowing ; it is far from being roman- 
 tic, and there is n't a glimmer of sentiment in 
 it. It has n't a moral ; if it had I shouldn't 
 relate it. No, it is just true ; that 's the best 
 of it and it 's the worst of it, too, as you will 
 admit, because it is n't without a parallel. 
 
 It — my story — is of a very charming old 
 farmhouse situated " near to Nature's heart." 
 
 At this farmhouse was gathered together a 
 small company of people known to the natives 
 of that section of the country as "summer 
 boarders." To themselves this same company 
 was known as a band of " nature-worshippers." 
 One day they were all seated in the shade on 
 a little knoll, each one trying to outdo the 
 others in the matter of rhapsodizing the "eter- 
 nal hills," the " books to be found in brooks," 
 etc., when up spake one of their number who 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 117 
 
 had hitherto been silent : " Oh, I would give 
 all the delights that this place possesses for 
 one hour in the company of an ice-chest 
 stocked as it could be with the good things in 
 market now." 
 
 Of course this was philistinism of the rank- 
 est sort, and it savored of treason, too. But 
 the offender held her head high and parried 
 well, if the truth must be told, the rebukes of 
 her hearers. The mischief was done, how- 
 ever ; the seeds of discontent fell upon fertile 
 ground, made receptive by a long diet of 
 corned beef, curd cheese and "plenty of milk." 
 
 The next morning every conveyance the 
 farmer-landlord could muster was pressed into 
 service to take his guests to the station. 
 Every one of them had received a sudden call 
 to Boston. But none confided to his or her 
 neighbor the exact nature of this post haste 
 summons to the Hub, and when the train 
 pulled into the station they scattered in differ- 
 ent directions, hurriedly saying to each other : 
 "See you on the 4.30 train this afternoon; 
 good-by." 
 
 And sure enough they were all aboard 
 the train as agreed, each of them with an arm- 
 ful of bundles. Nobody volunteered any in- 
 
ii8 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 formation as to what his or her bundles con- 
 tained, and nobody asked any questions. 
 They simply ignored the existence of them 
 and talked of how good it would seem to get 
 back to Peaceful Valley once more, with its 
 quietness and vast opportunities for re- 
 flection. 
 
 That night each of them had a private 
 audience with the landlady and the next 
 day at dinner was seen the result of the trip 
 to Boston and of the said private audience. 
 
 First of all was brought in some delicious 
 Spanish mackerel, broiled to a turn. These 
 were furnished by Professor A., author of the 
 celebrated work " Does Angling Produce 
 Insanity?" He said that of all the fish in 
 market these seemed to him just now the 
 most desirable. 
 Oyster Plant With the fish were served some of the finest 
 with Cream oyster plants that ever found their way into 
 the Boston market. They were cut in pieces, 
 boiled in salted water till tender, then drained 
 and served with a tablespoonful or so of melt- 
 ed butter and cream enough to cover them, 
 having just a dash of pepper in it. A simple 
 way of preparing them and yet quite good 
 enough for anybody, as you will see upon 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 119 
 
 trying it. My word for it, the Peaceful Valley 
 boarders thought it a dish fit for the gods. 
 
 After the mackerel had been discussed and 
 despatched and Professor A. had accepted 
 with a great deal of grace the vote of thanks 
 presented to* him, the game was brought in. 
 This course was offered for the delectation of 
 his fellow-boarders by Professor B., author of 
 " Birds I Have Met." 
 
 There were delicious chicken grouse that 
 had cost the professor quite a pretty penny, 
 viz. : two dollars and a half the pair ; and 
 plover of various kinds that were to be had 
 for four dollars the dozen. 
 
 And this is the way the grouse were cooked : 
 After the feet, necks, and pinions had been re- Grouse 
 moved their bodies were divided into three '''^ 
 pieces and put in a stewpan with the pinions 
 and a little chopped bacon ; after frying a bit 
 some salt and pepper were introduced. Then 
 were added two tablespoonfuls of white wine 
 for each bird ; then the birds were taken off 
 and cooled; after which they were arranged 
 with the wine in a pie dish with hard-boiled 
 eggs cut in quarters amongst them, covered 
 with the best pastry crust that the landlady 
 knew how to make, and it was pretty good, 
 
I20 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 really. In fact the dish turned out a great 
 success, as the result of a good many confer- 
 ences between the donator of the birds and 
 the cook. The Professor had bought, the 
 day before, the latest and best thing in the 
 way of a cookery book, and after carefully 
 reading it had come to the conclusion that 
 this recipe for cooking grouse would be more 
 easily mastered by the landlady than any 
 other. The beauty of a grouse pie, too, as 
 everybody knows, lies in its being just as good 
 cold as it is hot. 
 Roasted The plovers were dressed, and with a pinch 
 of salt and a bit of pepper put inside of them 
 and the thinnest possible slice of fat salt pork 
 tied over their breasts, were roasted for about 
 twelve minutes in a hot oven. 
 
 And with the game was served some of the 
 choicest stalks of celery that it has ever been 
 the lot of mortal to enjoy at this time of 
 year. 
 
 As for the fruit that was donated for this 
 special occasion you would consider it a treat 
 to hear the landlady tell of it, and of the sen- 
 sations she experienced at seeing such a vari- 
 ety when the " apples on the Early Harvest 
 
 Plover 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 121 
 
 tree on the south side of the orchard wall 
 were only just beginning to get mellow." 
 
 There were plums of almost every color 
 under the sun ; there were nectarines, the 
 mere sight of which would make one's mouth 
 to water ; there were delicious Delaware grapes 
 and some little white grapes called the Lady 
 de Coverley, that come from California. They 
 are just as good, too, as one would expect 
 from the name that has been given them. 
 There was a curiosity in the shape of a banana 
 cantaloupe, and there were all sorts of other 
 melons, but the melon par excellence was 
 what is known as the Montreal cantaloupe. 
 They are raised on the banks of the St. Law- 
 rence River, and simply refuse to grow in any 
 other locality. Gardeners in other places have 
 done everything to induce it to become natur- 
 alized, but all to no purpose. The particular 
 specimen that found its way to the Peaceful Val- 
 ley weighed just twenty-one pounds, and cost 
 the purchaser I2.50. But it was n't extrava- 
 gance to buy twenty-one pounds of such 
 deliciousness, even if it had cost twice that 
 sum. 
 
 And what do you suppose these nature- 
 worshippers did after partaking of all the 
 
122 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 good things herein described and set forth? 
 Well, they went out and sat under the trees 
 and began to talk of what Thoreau said about 
 huckleberries ! 
 
 I came away then. 
 
 As a refreshing entr^acte let us dwell on the 
 subject of ices. Let us have something more 
 than just the ordinary way of making every- 
 day routine ice creams. We will say " ices " 
 — they mean unutterable, indescribable things 
 that tickle the palate and cool one 's very 
 existence simultaneously. Though after all 
 it may be well to talk a minute of ice creams — 
 beginning with generalities. The first of these 
 I have found is that the easiest and best ice 
 cream is made by using one-third rich cream 
 to two-thirds milk with sugar as desired. 
 No eggs and no cooking. If it is frozen 
 smoothly it is perfect. This, however, is but 
 the working plan — the flavoring and the 
 moulding are to be arranged to suit yourself. 
 
 However, if cream is not available, then 
 eggs and milk in the proportion of eight eggs 
 to one quart of milk may be used. This 
 requires cooking like an ordinary custard. 
 
Ice Cream 
 
 I GO A-MARKETING 123 
 
 Sugar to your taste, but flour or cornstarch 
 are to be left out, by all means. 
 
 If you are using fresh fruits, such as pine- 
 apple, peaches, strawberries and the like they 
 should not be cooked but be added to the cream 
 after it is frozen and just before it is packed. 
 Candied fruit, fruit used for frozen puddings 
 and the like, is usually soaked in brandy or 
 rum before adding to the cream. At least, 
 that 's the sort of treatment it gets from me. 
 
 Just a word about coffee ice cream. For Coffee 
 I don't think you will find this recipe any- 
 where else. And it 's a pity you should n't 
 know of it. Have then one pint of very 
 strong coffee, a gill of brandy, one quart of 
 cream and three pints of rich milk. Then 
 freeze and be thankful whenever a hot day 
 makes it possible for you to serve your coffee 
 at dinner in this way. 
 
 A great many people have a preference for 
 sherbets and of these I have some charming 
 things to say, for I appreciate a sherbet 
 myself. There's a milk sherbet that suits Milk Sherbet 
 me down to the ground. It is made of two 
 quarts of milk, four cups of sugar, and the 
 juice of six lemons. Also the whites whipped 
 well of two or three or more eggs as you feel 
 
124 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 inclined to use them. Surely the lemons will 
 curdle the milk. But don't let that disturb 
 you. Put it in the freezer and go ahead. It 
 will come out as right as right can be. 
 Strawberry For a Strawberry sherbet made in this way 
 
 Sherbet j j^ave a fondness that I am not ashamed to 
 acknowledge anywhere : Sprinkle over one 
 quart of strawberries half a pound of sugar ; 
 let it stand three hours, then strain through a 
 coarse cloth, squeezing hard. To this jitice 
 add three pints of water, as much sugar as it 
 seems to you to need, the juice of a lemon 
 and freeze. 
 Pineapple A pineapple sherbet is made in the same 
 
 Sherbet way, though not as much sugar will be required 
 probably. 
 Peaoh And for a peach sherbet follow the same 
 
 Sherbet directions, adding a wineglassful of brandy 
 before freezing. 
 
 Currant A currant sherbet is a deliciously refresh- 
 
 Sherbet jj^g thjng to have either in anticipation 
 or in reality on a hot day. Boil a quart 
 of water and a pound of sugar to a 
 syrup. Skim and stir with it a pint of fresh 
 currant juice which has been heated with a 
 little sugar. Let this cool thoroughly, then 
 add the beaten whites of four eggs and freeze. 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 125 
 
 For myself, I am quite through shying when 
 anyone says artificial coloring in food — I 
 have found the vegetable colorings as innoc- 
 uous as so much water, and worth their weight 
 in gold in cases like the present, namely the 
 coloring of this currant sherbet. The only 
 drawback about which is that of itself it will 
 not be pretty to the eye — therefore hesitate 
 not, but in with a few drops of carmine color- 
 ing. 
 
 A champagne ice is n't such a high-roller Champagne 
 refreshment as it sounds. To begin with it 's Sf>B''>>et 
 a rank solecism to freeze any but the most 
 inexpensive of champagnes, and then you 
 don't require many other good things for 
 your ice — the champagne is enough in itself 
 You just make a very strong and sweet lemon 
 ade — a quart of it and half freeze it; then 
 pour in the champagne and wholly freeze the 
 mixture. Get the champagne into the freezer 
 as soon as you can after it is opened before 
 its volatile gas escapes. If you prefer a more 
 hilarious refreshment just keep on with your 
 use of intoxicants by adding after the cham- 
 pagne a wineglassful of brandy. Also, if you 
 like, you may add the beaten whites of eggs, 
 ad libitum. 
 
126 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 Champagne While we are on the subject of frozen 
 
 L. "".** champagne and the entering wedge has done 
 Strawberries r & b o 
 
 Its work let me speak a good word for cham- 
 pagne with strawberries. Freeze together a 
 quart of champagne and a pint of sugar syrup. 
 Just at the last add one pint of strawberries 
 which have been halved and quartered and 
 marinaded in a little brandy and sugar for 
 about fifteen minutes. Cherries used in this 
 way will make you ready to declare that till 
 you tried it you did n't know how to live. 
 Claret A claret sherbet is even better than it 
 Sherbet sounds if you make it in this way : Rub the 
 peel of two oranges off with plenty of loaf 
 sugar and then make a syrup of this sugar 
 and a pint of water. When cool, stir in the 
 juice of three oranges, a quart of claret, a 
 tablespoonful of brandy and the whites of four 
 eggs whipped to a stiff froth and freeze slowly. 
 Sometimes there is used in this recipe the 
 zest of lemon peel instead of oranges and then 
 there is used some orange marmalade, heated 
 and strained of course. Or any jelly which 
 you may fancy goes in very harmoniously 
 with this concoction. 
 
 A kirsch sherbet is a delicacy that does n't 
 put itself in the way of ordinary mortals every 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 127 
 
 day in the week. That 's why its welcome is Kitsch 
 a soulful one when it does appear. You have ^"^''^^^ 
 a pint of chablis and a pint of any preferred 
 fruit syrup, which you freeze. Then at the 
 last there is added to it half a pint of kirschen- 
 wasser. 
 
 By the way, before I forget it, you may 
 treat watermelon with the frozen cham- 
 pagne exactly as prescribed hereinbefore for 
 strawberries and champagne. 
 
 All these are but a few of the ices familiar 
 to expert cooks nowadays. But each one 
 herein given is capable of so many variations 
 that I am leaving that part of it to you. Do 
 you know that I am saddened more and more 
 every day as I contemplate the power that 
 lies in suggestion and the stupidity of people 
 who will not avail themselves of it? But 
 this is not perhaps the sort of talk you look 
 for in a book that has to do with the material 
 things of life. Very well, we will cut it off. 
 
AUGUST 
 
 " Ah, you flavor everything; you are the 'vanilla of society." 
 
 ABOUT the only time when I am really 
 anxious to have the right to vote is 
 ■" when some legislation tending toward 
 the preservation of the lobster is on the 
 docket. Then, if I had the opportunity, I 
 should not only vote with both hands for a 
 " close season " on that delectable shellfish, 
 but I should lecture as long as I could get any 
 one to listen to me, either on Boston Com- 
 mon or in Faneuil Hall, in an endeavor to 
 induce others, men and women, to vote with 
 me. I believe I should even resort to bribery 
 where I thought it would do — and I am a 
 fair judge of individuals who don't require 
 their " inducements " to be too heavily coated 
 with sugar — in order to put it through. 
 
 As matters are now there are almost as 
 many ways for preparing lobster as there are 
 lobsters in the sea, and in order to try them 
 all you would better be about it before the 
 supply is utterly exhausted, or some one in 
 authority calls " time." 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 129 
 
 For devilling lobsters I have a budget of DeuUied 
 recipes, but this seems to be about the best ^°''®*®'' 
 one in the lot: Split the lobster, after it is 
 boiled, in two lengthwise, and put it into a 
 baking-pan ; season with salt and cayenne, and 
 pour over it plenty of melted butter, and bake 
 in a hot oven for five minutes. Just before 
 serving spread over it a sauce of melted butter 
 thickened with flour and seasoned with a few 
 drops of lemon juice, a sprinkling of mustard, 
 and a little Madeira or sherry wine. 
 
 Lest you should get so attached to this Lobster 
 devilled lobster of mine, I hasten to put here ^''"** 
 an alluring sounding recipe, hoping you may 
 be induced to try it before forming the devilled 
 lobster habit. First fry a sliced onion in 
 enough butter so that there will be no brown- 
 ing of it. Take out the onion in two or 
 three minutes, as it is only intended to flavor 
 the butter, and then fry in this butter the 
 diced meat of two boiled lobsters for two 
 or three minutes. Sprinkle in some chopped 
 parsley and salt and pepper as you like it. 
 Pour over the lobster a pint of white wine, 
 and as soon as this gets to the boiling point 
 take out the lobster and put it on slices of 
 toast. Into the boiling wine put all the 
 
 9 
 
I30 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 butter from the lobsters, just a few chopped 
 mushrooms, if they are at hand, and pour 
 over the slices of lobster toast. Have this 
 just as hot as possible when sending to table, 
 and you will find the alluringness of this dish 
 is not in the telling of it only. 
 Lobster A lobster tartlet is a gastronomical dream. 
 Tartlet j^^ ^^ ^^jj y.^^^ while we are on the subject, 
 
 and after you try it you will be telling the 
 same story. You should have tartlet moulds 
 made of the very best puff paste, which you 
 fill with diced cold boiled lobster, chopped 
 cooked mushrooms, a caper or two, and a bit 
 of mayonnaise. 
 Lobster a la Lobster a la Newberg is such a staple dish 
 ew erg ^^^^ j^ seems almost like plagiarizing something 
 or somebody to put it on record here. How- 
 ever, as no list of lobster dishes is correct 
 without it, here it shall go. Cut the boiled 
 lobster into two-inch pieces and fry over a 
 tremendously hot fire, either in a chafing dish or 
 on a range, for just two or three seconds ; lessen 
 the heat then, or pull the frying-pan into 
 cooler quarters, while you cover the lobster 
 with thick, rich cream. Let this come to a 
 threat to boil, then stir in say three egg yolks 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 131 
 
 to a pint of cream, the yolks stirred in a little 
 cream, till it thickens a bit. Just a dash of 
 sherry, say two tablespoonfuls, and there 
 you are. 
 
 For stuffing lobster tails cut the meat of Stuffed 
 the lobsters up rather finely, and add to it ^•''"*"' ^"''^ 
 half its quantity of mushrooms. Fry in but- 
 ter a bit, dilute with a little cream, season 
 highly with cayenne and salt and fill the half 
 tails with the mixture. Coat with bread 
 crumbs that have been stirred about in melted 
 butter, and brown in a hot oven. 
 
 The making of lobster croquettes is a pleas- Lobster 
 ant sort of business, for there is so much an- (^''Ofuettea 
 ticipation of good to come stirred in with it. 
 Cut the meat — don't chop it — rather finely : 
 moisten with a bit of cream and the butter 
 from the lobster. Mould and roll in crumbs 
 and fry a golden brown. Don't go to seasoning 
 these croquettes very highly or the delicacy 
 will depart from them. But you know that. 
 And do you know that you may add to almost 
 any sauce used for boiled or baked fish some 
 diced cooked lobster to the benefit of every- 
 thing and everybody concerned ? Well, you 
 may — my word for it. 
 
132 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 If I were to tack a sub-title to this screed 
 it might very properly be : " Women's Lunch- 
 eons," inasmuch as it was in aid of one of 
 these mild social dissipations that I last peram- 
 bulated through the markets. Very properly 
 also I might characterize the trip as a " peri- 
 patetic wandering through the market-place," 
 for all the while I was in quest of edibles 
 suitable to put before a purely feminine com- 
 pany I was talking to myself about the prob- 
 able origin of this form of hospitality. When, 
 where, and by whom it was invented ? My 
 own conjecture as to its inception finally took 
 this course : Algernon was in the habit of 
 attending a great many goings-on to which 
 women were never bidden. And Araminta 
 frequently discussed with him the calls thus 
 made upon his time. Whereupon it came to 
 pass that after one particularly interesting de- 
 bate on the subject, which debate was brought 
 to an end by the sharp, quick closing of the 
 street door, Araminta had an idea. An idea 
 which she called an inspiration, nothing less, 
 and it had for its starting-point a luncheon, a 
 dainty, gay little affair, at which no black coat 
 should be allowed to intrude. And the piece 
 de r'esistance of the meal should be a sweet 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 133 
 
 called " revenge." Oh, yes indeed, not only 
 would her guests applaud her originality, but 
 the hearts of the absent males would be torn 
 to tatters at her assumption of independence. 
 And doubtless Part One of the programme was 
 carried out to the letter, but, between you and 
 me, I don't believe Algernon ever lost a wink 
 of sleep over it. In fact, when he settled the 
 bill I have good reasons for mistrusting that 
 he said something about the " game being 
 jolly well worth the candle." 
 
 But to-day the women's luncheon is an in- 
 stitution, and a very chic and dainty diversion 
 into the bargain. And there are those who 
 make it their business to tell how a woman 
 should be arrayed at such a festivity, but that 
 is out of my province. If, however, you 
 would know how the menu should read at 
 this time of year, allow me : — 
 
 Cantaloupe. 
 Bouillon in cups. 
 Lobster patties. 
 Lamb cutlets with mushrooms. 
 
 String beans fried in butter. 
 Broiled quails. 
 
 Tomatoes stuffed with celery and mayonnaise. 
 Wine ice cream. Grapes. Coffee. 
 
 I almost said oysters at the beginning of 
 
134 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 the menu, but oysters we shall have with us 
 for several months to come, while cantaloupes 
 are beginning to say it 's about time they were 
 going. As yet, however, they are just as de- 
 licious and no more expensive than they have 
 been at any time through the season. 
 
 Now as for bouillon. I get it canned, and 
 think myself very fortunate in being able to 
 do so. But you may prefer to make your 
 own, and if so you probably have an always 
 reliable recipe. Mes congratulations. 
 Lobster But if you have a score of recipes for 
 Patties making lobster patties, I honestly believe you 
 will follow the one I am pleased to give you 
 herein. I take myself very seriously, you 
 see. Well, prepare some of the very best puff 
 paste that you know how to make. Roll it 
 out on a floured table; with a fluted cutter 
 cut out some rounds, put them on a baking 
 dish, set them on ice for fifteen minutes, then 
 brush them over with beaten egg. With a 
 plain tin cutter of about half the size of the 
 fluted cover cut through a third of each of 
 the rounds, dipping the cutter in warm water 
 every time ; this will form the cover when 
 baked. Bake in a quick oven. When cooked 
 lift off the cover and scoop out a little of the 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 135 
 
 soft paste inside. For the lobster filling take 
 
 the meat from a boiled lobster, cut it into very 
 
 small pieces and fry a little in butter, in a 
 
 very little butter, till they just threaten to 
 
 brown. Then pour over the lobster bits 
 
 enough thick cream to barely cover them ; 
 
 heat this, but don't let it boil. Thicken it 
 
 with two or more beaten eggs, according to 
 
 the quantity of lobster. Season delicately 
 
 with salt and a suspicion of cayenne. Have 
 
 the patties hot and the lobster hot, and arrange 
 
 them on a hot dish for serving. For dear 
 
 knows that a cold or a lukewarm patty is an 
 
 abomination. 
 
 After the patties the lamb cutlets. And, Lamb Cutlets 
 
 mind you, they are to be fried, not broiled. '^'^ . 
 
 J ' J ' Mushrooms 
 
 Season them well with salt and pepper, and 
 fry in a little butter over a brisk fire till 
 browned on both sides. Then drain off the 
 butter and baste ^hem with just a little Ma- 
 deira wine. Dress the cutlets in a circle and 
 pour into the centre a Madeira sauce with 
 mushrooms. This you make by heating half 
 a pint of any good stock, adding to it a gill of 
 Madeira, thickening it with a little flour braided 
 with butter, and adding at the last a dozen 
 mushrooms that have been minced and fried 
 
136 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 moderately in a little butter. You may use 
 sherry instead of the Madeira for basting the 
 cutlets and for the sauce if you like. And 
 also you may use the tinned instead of fresh 
 mushrooms if you prefer to do so. For fresh 
 mushrooms may not be any too plenty just 
 now, and consequently are a thought expen- 
 sive. Still, they 're quite worth the price. 
 
 And now that the " law 's off" probably 
 hereabouts on quail, you will find them in 
 pretty good condition. Indeed, they are so 
 good that I hope you will just have them 
 broiled after salting a bit, and pin your faith 
 to their own delicious flavor to give delight 
 to your guests. Have them served on toast, 
 if you must, that has been slightly buttered, 
 but forget to serve any jelly with them. 
 
 I 've told you elsewhere all about tomatoes 
 stuffed with celery and mayonnaise, so I won't 
 go into particulars this time. But tomatoes 
 will not be with us at the prices for which we 
 can now get them a great while longer, and 
 celery is remarkably good in quality and low 
 in price. So there's a good broad hint for you. 
 
 That wine ice cream which I have recom- 
 mended is truly a delightful confection. You 
 have a pint of moderately rich cream, and you 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 137 
 
 add to it the yolks of five eggs and three Wine 
 tablespoonfuls of sugar, and then you heat it '"^ ^™"'" 
 just a trifle. Next you stir in a gill of white 
 wine, and then you freeze it. When quite 
 frozen stir into it some chopped preserved 
 cherries. Then turn the cream into a mould 
 packed in ice to set till time for serving, when 
 it is to be turned out on a cold dish. Does n't 
 that sound as if it would be worth a trial ? 
 
 You see I 've simply said grapes in the 
 menu because, as far as that fruit is concerned 
 just now, it is a case of paying your money 
 and taking your choice. 
 
 And what will the ladies have to drink? 
 Suppose we say a sip of sherry with the bouil- 
 lon and a bottle of pretty good Rhine wine to 
 be brought in with the cutlets. And it 
 does n't seem to me that it would be over- 
 doing the matter to have a cordial finale — say 
 creme yvette, or creme de cacao a la vanille. 
 
 Of course, I will tell you the approximate 
 cost of such a luncheon. With good man- 
 agement it can be served, inclusive of the 
 wines, for twelve dollars for a dozen persons. 
 And that is not bad, now, is it ? 
 
 Did n't you just enjoy that cooling little 
 entr'acte we had in July ? I did. Let 's 
 
138 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 have another. We will not have anything 
 sweet in this, however, we will have it cold 
 and savory. Does n't that hit you favorably? 
 There are plenty of cold and dainty savories 
 that may come to table as your chief dish at 
 luncheon or at dinner or as an entree only, at 
 the latter meal, according to the degree with 
 which you manage to put on style. 
 Cold Chicken There 's chicken cream, for instance, made 
 Cream f^^^ ^ ^.^j^ boiled or roasted — well, bird. 
 I don't know whether it 's chicken or fowl. 
 Perhaps you paid for chicken and got fowl. 
 Perhaps you paid for fowl and wheedled the 
 provisioner into giving you chicken. But 
 we will say chicken, anyway. Pick, then, all 
 the flesh from the chicken, mince and then 
 pound it. Now add to it half a pint of cream 
 stiffly whipped and half a pint of just liquid 
 aspic jelly. Season with salt and white pepper 
 and any other condiment if you like. Then 
 have one large or several small moulds and 
 line them with aspic jelly and fill with the 
 chicken cream. Let set till cold and stiff and 
 then unmould on slices of very thin fried bread. 
 Chop parsley and sprinkle over the creams 
 when unmoulded. 
 
 Another way would be to line the moulds 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 139 
 
 with liquid aspic and a little tomato sauce. Chicken 
 
 When this sets fill with the chicken cream as ^^^"1 
 ,--.,.,, , with Tomato 
 
 berore. It you like the cream may be 
 
 omitted from the chicken and when it is 
 
 unmoulded it may be covered with a French 
 
 dressing or with mayonnaise. 
 
 Any remains of cold meat can be chopped 
 finely, mixed with shredded lettuce or water- 
 cress or parsley, capers, stoned olives, a truffle 
 or two and mayonnaise, with enough liquid 
 aspic to stiffen it and moulded in any way. 
 
 These do make delicious presentations of 
 old subjects — just a little labor and a little 
 inventive painstaking and you have accom- 
 plished wonders. There are so many garnish- 
 es that may be used with these cold things 
 to make them more of a delight that it is 
 impossible to go through the list. Sliced 
 tomatoes or cucumbers or some cold cooked 
 vegetable with a French dressing — any quan- 
 tity of them you see once you begin to cast 
 about for them. 
 
 No one knows better than I do that to 
 make the conventional aspic jelly is a labor 
 that involves terrible risks as regards the 
 breaking of the commandment concerning 
 profanity. I don't mind telling you that I 
 
I40 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 found it was having such a degenerating effect 
 on my whole moral nature that I hit upon 
 using just the best gelatine I can buy — this 
 is not the place to name it, however — and 
 dissolving it in a clear stock — white or brown 
 as the case demands. Try it in making these 
 aspic things. 
 Cold Cutlets You know, of course, that cold cutlets are 
 in Jelly ^.j^g j^^g^. impossible left-over thing with which 
 the housekeeper has to deal. But prepare 
 some savory jelly with stock and tomato 
 sauce and coat these left-over cutlets with it 
 some day and have them for luncheon. You 
 will confess that you have learned something 
 worth knowing. 
 
 Then there are numberless kinds of fish, 
 almost any kind in fact that does n't run to 
 bone, that will flake well; dip the pieces in 
 a jelly of this kind diluted with any kind of 
 sauce — Hollandaise, vinaigrette, tomato, and 
 so on to the end of the list. Now, mind, 
 when I say coat these viands with this jelly 
 I don't mean for you to give them a regular 
 ulster for a coat — but a little thin diaphanous 
 jacket, suitable for hot weather, you under- 
 stand. 
 
 When you can use cream in the jellies. 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 141 
 
 either whipped or straight, the daintiness of 
 them is increased by just so much. 
 
 There are some kinds of game — dark game 
 especially — that you may slice and coat with 
 this jelly using currant jelly with it also and 
 get some combinations that will drive your 
 friends to despair. 
 
 Bear in mind that these jellied things must 
 be kept on ice till served and the plates on 
 which they are served must also be ice-cold. 
 It does seem too bad for me to have to bur- 
 den my soul with such instructions for you — 
 they should be needless. But when good 
 fortune takes me to luncheon in a crack hotel 
 and I get my salad on a hot plate, or a hot 
 plate set before me for the serving of it, I am 
 forced to the conclusion that the mental light- 
 weights are still in evidence and there's no 
 knowing but what some of them in a moment 
 of lucidity may become the owner of this 
 book. Therefore I go into tiresome details, 
 occasionally. 
 
SEPTEMBER 
 
 " But the fruit that falls 'without shaking 
 Indeed is too mello<wfor me.'"'' 
 
 THERE are persons, as some of us 
 can testify, who appear to be horrified 
 if a Manhattan cocktail is mentioned 
 in the most casual manner, and who are war- 
 ranted to shy if they but get a whifF of a 
 Martini, but give them a chance to partake of 
 an oyster cocktail and you have added a sub- 
 stantial item to their sum of worldly pleasure. 
 Almost everybody likes an oyster cocktail 
 when it is judiciously mixed, but folk of the 
 ilk above referred to do seem to have a pecul- 
 iar fondness for it. Now, is it because a 
 course of total abstinence has rendered their 
 palates extremely sensitive to highly seasoned 
 impressions, or is it that the name has a witch- 
 ery that beguiles them into thinking that they 
 are tasting a forbidden thing without sacrificing 
 a principle ? I don't know. You tell. 
 Oxjster And tell me, too, if this is the way you set 
 Cochtail about preparing one of these palate-ticklers. 
 Half a dozen little oysters dropped into a 
 glass, with their juice, a little lemon juice, four 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 143 
 
 miserly drops of Tabasco sauce, half a tea- 
 spoonful of Worcestershire sauce, a dessert- 
 spoonful of tomato ketchup, and several 
 grains of salt. Or do you substitute horse- 
 radish for the Tabasco ? They tell me it 's 
 frequently done, but for myself I prefer the 
 Tabasco. It is a vexed question, anyway, 
 this matter of what shall be put on a raw 
 oyster to make it more palatable ; the , real 
 dyed-in-the-wool epicurean vows that it is 
 nothing short of barbarism to use more than 
 the tiniest pinch of salt, while many a discrim- 
 inating gourmet declares that the more you 
 do for an oyster the more it does for you. 
 So there you are. 
 
 But epicureans and laymen alike are agreed Bahed 
 on one point, and that is the way to bake ^y^*^''^ 
 oysters so that they are worthy of a place on 
 any table. Put into a small lined stewpan a 
 quarter of a pound of butter and one teacup- 
 ful of cream, stirring it well over a quick fire 
 till hot. Add a wineglass of sherry, a table- 
 spoonful of anchovy sauce, and a skimpy 
 sprinkling of cayenne and grated lemon peel. 
 Stir over the fire till it bubbles once. Then 
 pour half of the mixture into a baking dish. 
 Lay the oysters on it, besprinkle them with 
 
with Cream 
 
 144 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 a scanty covering of bread-crumbs and grated 
 Parmesan cheese, with salt and pepper. Pour 
 the remainder of the cream over all and brown 
 to a good color. 
 
 Once one gets in the way of baking oysters 
 as herein prescribed, one's recipe for scalloped 
 oysters, no matter how true and tried, will be 
 lost sight of. 
 Oyster Stew And the same fate will likely befall one's 
 rule for making an oyster stew, provided one 
 adopts this suggestion for preparing oysters 
 with cream. In the first place there should 
 be put into a saucepan a pint of cream with a 
 tiny piece of onion and a little mace tied up 
 in a musHn bag. When the cream boils 
 thicken it with a tablespoonful of flour mixed 
 with two tablespoonfuls of cream. Heat a 
 quart of oysters, with their liquor and sufficient 
 salt. Then drain and put them into a 
 dish which is to be sent to table ; pour the 
 cream over them, removing the onion and 
 mace. With the dish serve toasted bread or 
 biscuit. 
 
 Undoubtedly all your friends are ready to 
 take oath that you do have at your table the 
 very best fried oysters they ever tasted. 
 But the next time that you regale them with the 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 145 
 
 dishj let the oysters be devilled and then fried. Devilled 
 Wipe the oysters perfectly dry and lay them '^"^'^ Oysters 
 on a flat dish. Have a goodly supply of 
 butter at just the melting point, mix with it a 
 little salt, a suspicion of cayenne, and a cer- 
 tainty of lemon juice ; pour this over the 
 oysters and leave them in it for at least 
 ten minutes. Then roll them in a paper of 
 cracker crumbs or sifted bread-crumbs; dip 
 them into beaten egg, then into the crumbs 
 again, and fry in boiling lard. 
 
 Or you can make a dish of fried oysters Stuffed 
 even more elaborate if you will chop six ounces "® *'* ^'^^ 
 of the white meat of any fowl with one ounce 
 of fat salt pork, pound it in a mortar till 
 your stock of patience threatens to strike, 
 then chop a few truffles to the size of peas, 
 and add them with a little white pepper to the 
 chopped meat. Have four dozen oysters 
 wiped dry, and with a sharp knife make an 
 opening in the side of each one ; fill the holes 
 with the mixture. Dip the oysters in crumbs, 
 then in egg, again in the crumbs, and fry. 
 
 Now see to it that your guests don't exhaust 
 their pet adjectives on either of these dishes. 
 They will need at least a good round dozen of 
 superlatives after an experience with a celery 
 
146 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 Oysters, roast of oysters. And this is the way the 
 Celery Roast g^Qj-y gQgg . Have ready some dainty slices of 
 breadj toasted, with the crusts removed. 
 Wipe dry and broil some of the smallest 
 oysters you can get ; broil till they begin 
 to shrivel all round, then put them on 
 the toast. Sprinkle a little salt over them ; 
 cover them with some finely chopped 
 celery. Salt the celery a bit also. Have 
 ready cream heated, but not boiled, and 
 pour it over the whole. Serve it as hot as 
 possible, and rejoice in the fact that you have 
 demonstrated how divine a thing an oyster 
 may be made. 
 Oyster Pie It 's a thousand pities that everybody 
 does n't know how to make good pufF paste, 
 for without that knowledge it is impossible to 
 make a good oyster pie ; but in case you are an 
 adept at puff paste making, just try concocting 
 one some fine day. Line a pie dish with the 
 paste and fill it with uncooked rice; butter 
 the paste that covers the edge of the dish and 
 lay a cover of puff paste over the pie ; press 
 the edges together a bit and trim them neatly. 
 Meanwhile prepare a quart of oysters by 
 draining them from their liquor and chopping 
 them fine. Mix a teaspoonful of cornstarch 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 147 
 
 in a very little cold milk, and pour over 
 slowly half a pint of boiling milk or cream ; 
 when it is thick and smooth add to it an ounce 
 of butter. Season the oysters with salt and 
 pepper, and stir them into the mixture; 
 simmer for five minutes. When the pie-crust 
 is done remove it from the oven, take off the 
 top crust, turn out all the rice and fill the dish 
 with the oysters; put on the cover again, and 
 set in the oven to get thoroughly hot. 
 
 They do say the recollection of an oyster 
 pie so made is one of the sweetest echoes to 
 start when memory plays a tune on the heart, 
 even though one lives to be as old as Methu- 
 selah. 
 
 And now let me tell you of a way to pre- PicMed 
 pare oysters so that they may come under the Oysters 
 head of stand-bys, so dear to every house- 
 keeper. Take two quarts of oysters and put 
 them into a porcelain-lined saucepan with 
 their own liquor strained, half a grated nut- 
 meg, a teaspoonfiil of salt, a little cayenne, 
 and half a pint of strong vinegar. Then into 
 a muslin bag put half a teaspoonful of cloves, 
 two blades of mace, a teaspoonful of allspice, 
 and two bay leaves ; put this in with the 
 oysters. Let them cook very slowly, stirring 
 
148 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 all the while with a wooden spoon. As soon 
 as they come to a boil pour them into an 
 earthenware jar. When thoroughly cold they 
 are ready to serve ; if they are well covered in 
 a cool place they can easily be kept for a 
 week or even longer. 
 
 Of late years, when the subject of home- 
 made preserves and pickles has been referred 
 to in my hearing, I have been wont to assume 
 a very superior and quite top-lofty air, and to 
 . remark in a know-it-all tone of voice : " Oh, 
 life's too short for me to bother with any- 
 thing like that ; give me the fruits and vege- 
 tables and all other edibles that one can buy 
 preserved in tin or glass the year round; 
 they're better than home-made nine times out 
 of ten, they cost no more in the end, and 
 there's slight necessity for guesswork when 
 you are to open a can as to the condition of 
 its contents." Sometimes, if I had a very 
 tractable audience, this would end all discus- 
 sion for the time being. At others it would 
 fairly set the advocates of domestic preserving 
 by their ears, and then you may be sure they 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 149 
 
 defended their cause in good earnest. But 
 they never induced me to go in for anything 
 of the sort. Still, I now have on hand a very 
 fair array of jars and bottles and tumblers 
 filled with jellies and jams and pickles, and 
 they are home-made, and they are old- 
 fashioned and I am proud of them. And 
 I '11 . tell you how it happened. Out in the 
 country, three weeks or so ago, I was passing 
 a farm-house where the door opening into the 
 kitchen stood wide open, and through that 
 open door came a fragrant breath that called 
 to mind numberless sweet "woodsy smells. 
 There was in it a suggestion of sweet fern, a 
 reminder of bayberry, a hint of sassafras and 
 a distinct likeness of grapevine blossoms. 
 And this divine odor was conjured up, I 
 learned, by the stewing of grapes — wild grapes, 
 of course ; the cultivated varieties being quite 
 out of it when it comes to preserving. That 
 settled it. Within twenty-four hours from 
 that time there was issuing from my kitchen 
 an odor of wild grapes a-stewing. 
 
 To go into particulars, I was making grape Grape Jam 
 jam. I weighed the grapes, and to every 
 pound I allowed three-quarters of a pound 
 of sugar. Then I squeezed the pulp out of 
 
ISO I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 the skins, putting the pulp in one bowl and 
 the skins in another. The sugar with a 
 quarter of its quantity of water was boiled 
 in a preserving kettle till it was quite clear. 
 Then was added to it the pulp of the grapes 
 which were boiled ever so slowly for twenty 
 minutes — when they were rubbed through a 
 hair sieve and put back on the stove, with 
 the skins added to them. Then they 
 were boiled until the skins filled and looked 
 good and plump. And when they were quite 
 cooled I put them into jars covered tightly 
 to keep out the air. Next winter I shall de- 
 pend upon this jam to help me out at many 
 a luncheon with hot buttered toast or with 
 waffles. And I 've a strong notion that it 
 won't play me false. 
 Quince You know how one word leads to another. 
 Well, I find that one preserve leads to an- 
 other just as surely. After making the grape 
 jam I was determined to try my hand at 
 quinces — at quince marmalade. And it turned 
 out such a success that I offer the recipe for 
 your use if you like to try it. Peel and cut 
 into thin slices four pounds of quinces, put 
 them into a preserving kettle, with half their 
 quantity of peeled and sliced sweet apples. 
 
 Marmalade 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 151 
 
 two quarts of water and the juice of a lemon. 
 Cover the kettle and let the contents boil 
 quickly till softened; then put in three pounds 
 of crushed sugar loaf, and stir over the fire 
 while it boils slowly for twenty minutes. Take 
 the kettle from the fire, pour the marmalade 
 into jars, and when it is cool tie brandied 
 papers over the tops. I shall find many uses 
 for this sweet, I fancy, and some day when I 
 am quite put to it to know what to have for 
 dessert, I shall just have the simplest sort of 
 a bread pudding, and for a sauce some of this 
 quince marmalade. 
 
 And having made the marmalade, I find Quince Jelly 
 that no reasonable excuse exists for not mak- 
 ing quince jelly, because the parings can be 
 used along with more of the fruit. Core the 
 whole fruit and put this with the parings into 
 a stewpan with just as much water as will 
 cover them; stew them gently till they are 
 tender, but not red. Strain the juice from 
 the quinces without pressing them, measure it, 
 and for each cupful allow an equal quantity 
 of crushed loaf sugar. Pour the juice into a 
 preserving pan and boil it for twenty minutes, 
 then add the sugar and boil until reduced to 
 the consistency of jelly, stirring it well all the 
 
152 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 time. Strain through a jelly bag and pour 
 into small jelly tumblers. And this you know 
 is going to be not only a toothsome bit, but 
 if I put it into a pretty and suitable dish and 
 set it in just the right place on my luncheon 
 or dinner table, it will be a thing of beauty. 
 Plum Jam I 'm feeling rather proud, too, of my suc- 
 cess with plum jam. It really strikes me as 
 being delicious, and from the favored few who 
 have been allowed to " taste " it, I have heard 
 very flattering things. So you shall receive this 
 recipe also. Have ready say twelve pounds 
 of large ripe plums peeled and divided into 
 halves ; crack their stones, blanch the kernels 
 and pound them in a mortar. Put the par- 
 ings and cracked stones into a pan with three 
 quarts of water. Boil this until it is reduced 
 one-half, and then strain it through a fine 
 wire sieve. Put the fruit into a preserving 
 pan with the strained liquor and pounded 
 kernels and twelve pounds of crushed loaf 
 sugar. Cook over a slow fire until it is re- 
 duced to a stiff jam, then turn it into jars 
 and let it stand till quite cold, sift into 
 each jar a layer of powdered sugar, cover with 
 rounds of paper dipped in brandy, tie securely 
 and put away. Some foggy morning spread 
 
Plums 
 
 I GO A-MARKETING 153 
 
 a little of this jam on some toasted muffins 
 for breakfast, have some English breakfast 
 tea, and play you are in " Lunnun." 
 
 Really, you know, I should n't feel that I Brandied 
 had done the right thing by you if, after 
 recommending that jams be covered by bran- 
 died papers I should omit to say something 
 of plums preserved in brandy. They make 
 a dainty tidbit, serve them when you will — 
 morning, noon, or night. You don't want to 
 use plums that are any more than ripe; in 
 fact, if they're not much more than half-ripe 
 it will be quite as well. Say you have eight 
 pounds of them ; prick them all over and put 
 over the fire in cold water. As soon as the 
 water boils and the fruit rises to the surface 
 take out with a skimmer and lay them in a 
 pan of ice water. Then make a clear syrup 
 of two pounds of loaf sugar and a pint of 
 water. Put in the plums and let them 
 boil up just once; and let them stand 
 in the syrup over night. The next day 
 take them out of the syrup, boil this 
 once, put in the plums and let them 
 boil just once and let them stand over night 
 once more in the syrup. Repeat this opera- 
 tion the next day and the following day, then 
 
Peaohea 
 
 154 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 drain the plums and put them into bottles. 
 Boil the syrup till it will almost candy, and 
 when quite cold add to it three-fourths of 
 its own quantity of the best brandy you feel 
 that you can afford, mix thoroughly with the 
 syrup, strain it and pour over the plums. 
 Cork the bottles securely. 
 Brandied But if it 's peaches that you want to see in 
 brandy, you go about it in this way : Split 
 the peaches in halves and boil them in a 
 syrup such as is used for the plums. Boil 
 them two minutes only, then take them out 
 and remove their skins, put them back in the 
 syrup to simmer for five minutes; take 
 the pan off and leave the peaches in it till the 
 next day. Then drain and arrange them 
 carefully in jars. Boil the syrup down 
 and mix with it an equal quantity of white 
 brandy and when quite cold pour it over the 
 peaches. Cover the jars tightly. And it's 
 not for me to tell you when to use them, 
 — because the using of brandied peaches soon 
 becomes a fixed habit, and it's pretty hard to 
 be able to tell when not to use them. 
 
 Why Is it that housekeepers, the land over, 
 with excellent reputations as "good man- 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 155 
 
 agers," see in an apple only three possibilities, Apples in 
 to wit : apple pie, apple sauce and baked ^'"""" 
 apples, when by the aid of a vegetable spoon, 
 such as is used for preparing Parisienne 
 potatoes, the apples may be scooped out into 
 balls, cooked in a syrup flavored with vanilla, 
 served hot with a sprinkling of finely chopped 
 pistachios over all, and so served be worthy a 
 place on the table of the veriest gourmet? 
 Hardly a whit more trouble involved, you 
 see, or expense, for that matter, than in the 
 preparation of " apple sauce," and yet how 
 much more appetizing and wholly satisfactory ! 
 Again, if you want to idealize baked apples, 
 have them peeled and cored, then boil in a 
 flavored syrup till tender, but firm, and with 
 sugar and burnt almond scattered over them 
 set in oven to acquire a delicate brown. 
 Garnish when serving with bits of marmalade 
 or jelly. 
 
 The frying of apples successfully is a tick- Fried Apples 
 lish matter, it must be admitted, but if the 
 fruit is perfectly sound when peeled, cored, 
 and quartered, the fat piping hot, with only a 
 few pieces dropped in at a time, if, as I say, 
 all these conditions prevail and your fried 
 apples be not a success, then rest assured 
 
156 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 there is some witchcraft at work and you are 
 in no wise to blame. The pity will be none 
 the less, however, for nothing so complements 
 delicious little pork chops for a luncheon dish 
 as apples so prepared. And pork chops, by 
 the way, are quite to be desired these cool 
 autumn days. 
 Apple Salad Nothing can exceed the joy-giving proper- 
 ties of an apple salad if it be rightly concocted. 
 For myself I prefer that there shall be a 
 judicious mixture of celery with the apple, 
 that the pepper, salt, and oil be added with a 
 sparing hand, and that without fail lemon 
 juice shall be used in place of vinegar. It 
 .hardly seems necessary to say, and yet one 
 never knows just what is the proper stopping 
 place in giving advice, that a steel knife must 
 not be allowed to touch the apples, else what 
 might have been and should be a thing of 
 beauty is a damaging blight to an otherwise 
 perfectly appointed table. This kind of salad 
 is in its rightful place when accompanying 
 any variety of black duck, and just now wild 
 ducks are of prime flavor. The marketmen 
 know this, but I find that not many of them 
 know why these birds are to be in their best 
 estate for the next two months, when the 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 157 
 
 reason as explained to me by sportsmen is 
 both sound and plausible, namely, that now 
 the birds are getting their feed where it is the 
 sweetest and best, along the shores of fresh 
 ponds, but later when Jack Frost shall have 
 done his perfect work they must hie them to 
 the salt marshes for sustenance, and very soon 
 thereafter the fact of their changed diet is 
 made manifest to those who dine from them. 
 
 One can hardly talk of ways and means for Pears in 
 treating apples and leave unsaid one or two ^""'"" 
 directions for serving pears so that they shall 
 be quite good enough to do duty upon any 
 occasion. Have you ever tried peeling them, 
 splitting them in two lengthwise, scooping out 
 the core, cooking till tender in a syrup 
 strongly flavored with vanilla, and then drain- 
 ing them, filling the hollows left by removing 
 the cores with powdered macaroons ? If you 
 have, then you know how to complete the 
 pretty task ; if not, then I will tell you that 
 after the macaroons have been added the two 
 parts of a pear must be put together, the 
 pears laid on their side alternately with tiny 
 rice croquettes which have been coated with 
 apricot marmalade or any preferred jam. 
 You may take the syrup in which the pears 
 
158 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 were boiled and adding to it a little whipped 
 cream pour it over the whole. My word for 
 it, if the early part of your feast has consisted 
 of such delicacies as nightingales' tongues and 
 plovers' eggs, pears so prepared will seem 
 a fitting dessert, but if, as is more probable, 
 you have dined from a perfectly broiled 
 chicken (and they were never better and less 
 expensive than now), you will find this dish 
 of pears quite the crowning beauty of your 
 dinner that it deserves to be. 
 Stuffed And while we are on the subject of cooking 
 Stewed pgars I will tell you of another way in which 
 I have always seen them find favor. After 
 they are cooked and the core scooped out I 
 fill them with a mixture of several kinds of 
 fruit, finely chopped, laying them on a shallow 
 dish of rice and cream, pouring syrup over 
 them. 
 Pears Now for another way of cooking pears as 
 they should be, to be " not like other folks' " 
 pears: let me suggest that you get inexpen- 
 sive, oh very inexpensive claret in which to 
 stew pears the next time you see fit to have 
 them. Stew them till tender, then take them 
 out and add to the claret what sugar you 
 think is needed to have it sweet enough when 
 
 Stewed 
 in Claret 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 159 
 
 it is boiled down to about one-half the original 
 quantity. Pour over the pears and let cool 
 before serving. Sublimate this idea, if you 
 see fit, by sprinkling in- chopped almonds or 
 chopped pistachios or any other little pleasantry 
 that occurs to your inventive genius, — that 
 is, if you 've an inventive genius that is to be 
 trusted. 
 
 Suppose you find, on one of your trips to 
 
 market this month, as you probably will, that 
 
 poultry is very low in price, won't you give 
 
 this suggestiorf a trial ? Cut a chicken up as 
 
 for a ragout, and boil it in as little water as 
 
 will cover it, seasoning the water with a small 
 
 onion, salt, white pepper, and a gill of sherry 
 
 wine. When the chicken is almost tender Fried 
 
 enough, drain it from the liquor and let it get f*'"*®"' , 
 => ' , ., , . Italian Style 
 
 perfectly cold. Meanwhile have m a stewpan 
 half a gill of olive oil, with a pinch of minced 
 onion and a little salt and pepper. When this 
 is quite hot and the chicken quite cold, cook 
 the chicken in it to a delicate brown. Dish 
 the chicken when it is browned evenly, and 
 pour over it a sauce made by adding a gill of 
 the stock in which it was boiled to the oil in 
 
i6o I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 the stewpan, thickening it all with the yolks 
 of two eggs. This makes a most deli- 
 cious dish and is well worth the trial. The 
 frying in oil gives it its distinctive flavor, and 
 makes it very different from fowl fried in 
 butter, which is in France always called 
 poulet sautee, to mark the difference. 
 
 With And this same dish can be varied a little by 
 Tomatoes ^^j^^g tomatoes with the chicken. After the 
 chicken has been fried in the oil, lay it on 
 fried tomatoes, and then pour the sauce over 
 all. Have the tomatoes as large as possible 
 and not too ripe ; slice them, dust them with 
 salt and pepper, and fry very, very slowly in 
 a little oil till they are cooked ; but don't let 
 the slices get out of shape. 
 Roast Duck If you think you would prefer a roast of 
 
 with poultry, do try ducks to be had now. Roast 
 Sauce them in any way that experience has taught 
 you is the best, but when it comes to making 
 the sauce for them, let me have a word to say. 
 Mince two or three slices of bacon and a 
 small onion and fry together for five 
 minutes ; add to them the juice of an orange 
 and a wineglassfiil of port wine, the drippings 
 from the pan in which the ducks were roasted, 
 and a seasoning of salt and pepper. It 's an 
 
I GO A-MARKETING i6i 
 
 ideal September dish, that 's what it is. And Broiled 
 you might accompany it or follow it with j"' ^ 
 another that is particularly seasonable, namely, 
 broiled devilled tomatoes. First you mash 
 the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, then you 
 mix with them a saltspoonful of salt, one tea- 
 spoonful each of powdered sugar and mustard, 
 and as much cayenne as your taste calls for ; 
 then stir in three ounces of melted butter, and 
 when all the ingredients are well blended add 
 three tablespoonfuls of vinegar. At this stage 
 put the mixture over the fire to reach the 
 boiling point, and stir in two well-beaten eggs. 
 When it has thickened a bit stand in hot 
 water on the stove to keep warm while you 
 give a little attention to the tomatoes. These 
 must be ripe and firm. Cut them in half-inch 
 slices, broil over a clear fire, place on a 
 hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and there 
 you are. This makes a really appetizing 
 breakfast dish as well as a savory dinner 
 course. Try it some morning, having with it 
 crisp broiled bacon and some dainty rice muf- 
 fins, and you will find yourself considerably 
 above par with your household for the rest of 
 that day at least. 
 
 And in a day or so follow up the good im- 
 
i62 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 Broiled pressioti by having at luncheon tomatoes pre- 
 
 Tomatoes 
 on Toast 
 
 pared in this way : Cut some round slices of 
 bread and fry them delicately in butter till 
 they are brown. Slice firm, ripe tomatoes to 
 match the sizes of the bread slices ; broil the 
 tomatoes just a wee bit, and then lay a slice 
 on each piece of the French bread. Season 
 them with pepper and salt, scatter grated 
 Parmesan cheese over them, spread them 
 with a layer of fine bread-crumbs moistened 
 with melted butter. Brown in a hot oven 
 and serve piping hot. And if the man o' the 
 house is the right sort you will get a vote of 
 thanks in the shape of a big bunch of the 
 earliest and brightest chrysanthemums to be 
 found in town. 
 Celery and Have you ever made a salad of apples and 
 ppe ala ggig^y ? Use sour apples cut into dice- 
 shaped pieces, and cut the celery into 
 half-inch bits. Arrange in the salad dish 
 in this way : A layer of the apple, then a 
 sprinkling of capers ; next a layer of the cel- 
 ery, and over this three or four olives cut in 
 thin slices, and so on till the dish is full. 
 Make a dressing of a saltspoonful of salt, a 
 good dash of cayenne pepper, the juice of a 
 lemon, and six tablespoonfuls of olive oil. 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 163 
 
 Pour this over the apples and celery about 
 ten minutes before serving. Be sure that 
 you let the youngsters have all of this 
 salad that they want, for it will be hard to 
 concoct a more wholesome and healthful one. 
 
 And I am going to suggest a variation or Apple Sauoe 
 two of the apple sauce theme for your ap- '^'^f' Orange 
 proval. Go ahead and get your apples ready 
 as you always have, and when you put them 
 on the stove to cook add to them the peel of 
 an orange. When the apples are quite cooked 
 press them through a sieve, add brown sugar 
 to them to taste, and the juice of one orange 
 to a pint of apple. Put this on the stove to 
 cook for about two minutes, and then put 
 aside to cool before serving. Or, stew your With 
 apples till they are tender, press them through ^^'PP^'' 
 a sieve, add to them the amount of sugar they 
 require, and when they are quite cold beat up 
 with them lightly some well-whipped cream 
 — a pint of cream after it is whipped to a 
 quart of apple sauce. 
 
 Now, if it comes to pass that neither or 
 both of these ways of making apple sauce 
 finds favor with you, you will certainly give 
 an attentive ear to a hint on the subject of 
 pears. For one of the daintiest and most 
 
i64 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 Pear Salad seasonable of desserts is a pear salad. Know 
 how it is made ? Have the pears quite ripe, 
 cut them in thin slices, lay them in a glass 
 dish, sprinkle powdered sugar on them, 
 pour over them a glass of brandy which has 
 in it a dozen drops or so of lemon juice, and 
 let stand on ice for about fifteen minutes 
 before serving. It is a good idea also to have 
 the pears on ice for two or three hours before 
 they are sliced. 
 Stuffed Another delectable dessert made from pears 
 Pears jg called " stuffed pears." Cut them in two 
 and scoop out the core with a vegetable 
 spoon. Cook the pears very gently in a little 
 syrup till they are quite tender. Drain them, 
 and have ready any kind of marmalade into 
 which you have stirred chopped almonds. 
 Stuff the pears with this and put them together 
 in their original shape. Have in a dish a 
 thin layer of boiled rice, over which you have 
 spread a little whipped cream. Arrange the 
 pears in a circle on the rice, and fill the centre 
 with the same kind of marmalade as that used 
 for stuffing the pears. 
 
 And peaches may be prepared in just the 
 same way ; but you may add just a few of the 
 kernels of the peaches to the syrup while you 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 165 
 
 are stewing them, which will give them a de- Stuffed 
 lightful flavor. Indeed, I think it is always ''*""'"'» 
 an improvement to use some of the kernels 
 when cooking peaches for any way of serving. 
 In tarts the kernels should be chopped as 
 finely as possible. 
 
 Peach cream makes a dainty and delicious Peach Cream 
 dessert. Have a dozen ripe peaches, peel, 
 removfe the stones, and then stew them 
 with half a dozen of the kernels in a syrup 
 made of half a pound of sugar and half a pint 
 of water. When the peaches are quite soft 
 press them through a sieve. Mix with the 
 pulp one pint of cream, whipped, and one 
 ounce of dissolved gelatine. Wet a fancy 
 mould with cold water, pour in the preparation, 
 and leave till firm. Unmould when serving. 
 
 To be sure, there 's no way in the world that 
 a peach is so delightful as when eaten from the 
 hand, but it must be the very best sort of a 
 peach to be eaten in this way, and the best 
 sorts just now may be a thought expensive. 
 That is the reason I have suggested ways for 
 cooking them, because one can use an inferior 
 quality and yet get perfectly satisfactory re- 
 sults. And that is n't possible with most of 
 life's commodities. 
 
OCTOBER 
 
 « Fill up the boiul, then, Jill it high — 
 Fill all the glasses there, for luhy 
 Should every creature drink but I ; 
 Why, man of morals, tell me luhy ? ' 
 
 WHEN all the world adopts the 
 Pythagorean menu as its standard 
 of good living then I will bestir 
 myself and concoct the daintiest dishes possi- 
 ble from those " foods that are freshly chem- 
 icalized by the sun's rays," and will gladly 
 give you the benefit of my experiences. But 
 I 'm no reformer, and until that day of uni- 
 versal self-denial arrives I will continue the 
 tenor of my way along the old line, and try 
 to idealize commonplace, every-day viands 
 into dishes that pique the appetite, and make 
 of eating a deHcate delight. A very material 
 vocation, it is true, but as matters stand a 
 highly useful one. Eh ? 
 
 Now there are smelts, as plump and inviting 
 a fish as can be found in the market, and at 
 their best, too. But how many housekeepers 
 are there who ever think of serving them in 
 any way but just simply fried ? Frequently, 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 167 
 
 of course, they do serve them with a tartar 
 sauce, but nine times out of ten it would ' be 
 better for all concerned if the sauce were ne- 
 glected or forgotten, or upset, or anything that 
 would keep it away from the table. 
 
 The next time you are to have smelts try Baked 
 cooking them in this way : After they are *'"^'** 
 cleaned have them wiped till perfectly dry, 
 and lay them in a baking dish; over 
 them pour a wineglass of white wine, add 
 a sprinkling of salt and pepper, accord- 
 ing to your judgment, half a dozen whole 
 fresh mushrooms, and pour over them one- 
 half a pint of Spanish sauce. Sprinkle ever so 
 lightly with bread-crumbs and a little warmed 
 butter, and bake in a hot oven for twenty 
 minutes. This is the way you would prepare 
 a dozen or fifteen of the fish ; of course for a 
 larger number the amount of seasoning, etc., 
 would be increased proportionately. Garnish 
 the smelts before serving with thinly sliced 
 lemon, each slice sprinkled with chopped 
 parsley. 
 
 Or try broiling them, if you like. Split Broiled 
 the fish, using only the largest size, down the g^^^g;^' 
 backs ; remove the backbones, wipe well 
 and then rub them with a little oil and 
 
i68 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 season with salt and a bit of white pepper. 
 Broil in a double broiler for three minutes 
 on each side, over a hot fire. Have spread 
 on the bottom of the dish in which they 
 are to be served a layer of Bearnaise sauce ; 
 arrange the smelts carefully and daintily on 
 this and sprinkle over them a scanty bit of 
 chopped parsley. You '11 find this far and 
 away ahead af the eternal " fried smelts and 
 sauce tartare." 
 Fried Smelts But if you really feel that you must fry 
 with Parsley them, then go about it in this way : First of 
 all, fry some thinly sliced bacon and in its fat 
 fry to a delicate brown the smelts which you 
 have previously dipped in sweet, rich cream, 
 and then dredged with flour to make a 
 thick paste around them. Serve garnished 
 with the bacon and with fried parsley. The 
 frying of parsley is as you know, a somewhat 
 ticklish job ; it must be perfectly dry, put 
 into a frying basket and then plunged into hot 
 fat for just a few minutes don't have the fat 
 too hot — this is where you must think and 
 act simultaneously — or the parsley will lose 
 its color, and then you will have to begin all 
 over again. After it is put on the dish squeeze 
 a few drops of lemon juice over it. My word 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 169 
 
 for it you will find this an acceptable dish, 
 whether it is prepared for breakfast, luncheon 
 or dinner. 
 
 I did n't mean you to understand that I Biuefish— 
 considered smelts to be the only fish in the '^^"'P'"'* 
 market at present; I simply wanted to call 
 your attention to them as being as good as 
 any other, and a good deal better than they, 
 themselves, are at any other time of year. 
 
 Biuefish are good now, too ; they are ex- 
 cellent, really, and a biuefish at its best is hard 
 to beat. Have you ever tried cooking them 
 in the oven ? Have them split, you know, 
 as for broiling, then put them into a well- 
 greased baking pan. Have ready half a cupful 
 of melted butter with the juice of an onion in 
 it and likewise the juice of a lemon, with a 
 reasonable amount of salt and of cayenne 
 pepper. Before the fish goes into the oven 
 moisten it well with the prepared butter, and 
 baste with the butter every ten minutes while 
 it is in the oven. When it is of a good even 
 brown it is done. Now, don't serve with the 
 biuefish cooked in this way potatoes of any 
 sort or kind. Have cucumbers, hothouse, of 
 course, and have them fried. Cut them into 
 thick slices and remove the seeds ; then soak 
 
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 them in equal parts of ice-water and vinegar, 
 well salted, for one hour. Take them out, 
 drain and wipe dry and fry in boiling lard 
 until a light brown. They are not only good 
 when served with bluefish cooked in this way, 
 but they are appetizing bits to accompany 
 pork or lamb chops when you are serving 
 them with a brown sauce. 
 
 So much for to-day's fish story. As for 
 meat, anybody can get good meats at any time 
 of the year if they will go to a man who knows 
 how to cut them, and won't insist on dickering 
 with him about the price. 
 
 Domestic ducks are now in good condition. 
 You might get one of them and try preparing 
 it in some new way to be used, if it's a suc- 
 cess, on Thanksgiving Day. Say stuffing it 
 with mushrooms ; use one can of mushrooms 
 to three heaping cupfuls of stale breadcrumbs; 
 one-half a cupful of melted butter, with salt 
 and pepper. If the stuffing appears to be too 
 dry moisten it with a bit of milk. Split the 
 mushrooms and use all their liquor ; if the 
 duck is too small to require the full amount 
 you may add some of the mushrooms to the 
 giblet gravy to be served with it. 
 
 And there is plenty of material in market 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 171 
 
 for green salads ; there are celery and lettuce, 
 the standbys ; watercress, escaroUe, romaine, 
 and chicory. Try this latter some time 
 soon, using a plain dressing of oil, vinegar, 
 salt and pepper for it, with bits of Roquefort 
 cheese sprinkled oyer it. If any among you 
 object to eating this cheese because of its odor, 
 rest easy, for you may have at hand a counter- 
 acting force in the Bar-le-Duc currants. They 
 do, as you probably are aware, put the finish- 
 ing touch to almost any sort of dinner, but 
 when particularly strong cheese has been 
 served they are nothing short of a godsend. 
 
 To the ordinary reader the name of Bon- 
 toux conveys nothing ; to the Parisian of a 
 generation or two ago it was synonymous 
 with all that was delightful in the way of food 
 and drink. The shop over which Madame 
 Bontoux presided remains in the Rue de 
 I'Echelle, but Madame, herself, has been 
 gathered to her forefathers. Originally she 
 had been a cordon bleu, and in the early 
 forties opened a small establishment in the 
 Rue Montesquieu, which" establishment, if 
 I mistake not, is mentioned in Sue's 
 
172 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 "Seven Cardinal Sins." Thence she moved 
 to the Rue de I'Echelle, where she died. 
 Acting on the whim of the moment, she 
 would sell her wares only to those whom she 
 liked, and those whom she did not like might 
 offer her a hundred times their value in vain. 
 The Rue de I'Echelle being near the Comedie 
 Francaise, Rachel, who was a gourmet of the 
 first water, frequently went to the shop after 
 rehearsals. One afternoon she went in while 
 one of the shopmen was busy packing a 
 hamper for Nicholas I. Among the delica- 
 cies there were a dozen magnificent quails on 
 a skewer. " I want those," said Rachel in 
 the imperious way she adopted now and then. 
 "You will have to want, my little woman," 
 replied Madame, shaking her head in her 
 enormous bonnet, which seemed a fixture ; no 
 one had ever seen her without it. Then 
 Rachel toned down. " I will give you ten 
 francs apiece for them," she said. " Not for 
 ten crowns apiece," came the retort, and in a 
 voice which left the great actress no doubt as 
 to its meaning. 
 
 Rachel was disappointed, and rose from her 
 chair to go. Just when she had reached the 
 door an idea flashed on her. She turned 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 173 
 
 round and began to recite the famous lines 
 from Corneille's "Horace." The effect was 
 electrical on the shopman, who dropped the 
 quails. Madame Bontoux was not so easily 
 impressed. She kept shaking her head just 
 as if to say "You may save yourself the 
 trouble, my girl ; " but all of a sudden, when 
 Rachel brought out the last line — 
 
 " Moi seule en itre cause et mourir de plaisir" 
 
 she jumped up. " Give her the dozen quails 
 and a pheasant besides." Wonderful to 
 relate, the enormous bonnet had got pushed 
 on one side. 
 
 Now, there 's a very pretty question to be 
 discussed at your dinner table o' Sunday 
 night: Were those birds a bon march'e for 
 Rachel, or did Madame Bontoux, in the 
 language of to-day, " get the best of the 
 bargain ?" 
 
 When you go to market in search of game 
 in these days, and the marketman, leading you 
 in the direction of the ice-box wherein he 
 keeps his choicest wares, says, " Look at 'em ; 
 ain't they beauties ? " you will be quite safe in 
 acquiescing by a plain yea or a nod, but do 
 not go to the extent of ordering a dozen quail, 
 
174 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 or woodcock, or snipe, or any other game 
 bird, in fact, until you have ascertained if 
 the legs are smooth and the quill feathers 
 soft, which facts prove them to be young 
 birds. Furthermore, be sure that the 
 breasts are hard, firm, and well-covered with 
 flesh, for this will show them to be in good 
 condition. 
 
 Once the birds arc under your roof-tree 
 see to it that the cook does not draw the 
 trail from the woodcock or snipe, for by all 
 gourmets this is reckoned a great delicacy, 
 and, by the way, though, of course, it is a 
 matter of common knowledge, the heads of 
 these birds are the most delicious morsels 
 of all. Another point to be borne in mind 
 is that when preparing game for cooking it 
 should never be washed inside, but merely 
 well wiped with a clean cloth. 
 
 Partridges, grouse and quail are of so fine 
 a flavor that it is little short of a criminal 
 Toast for act to serve them in any way but roasted 
 Game q^ broiled. If they are to be broiled and 
 served on toast, then a delicious way of 
 preparing the toast is to have the giblets 
 boiled till they are so tender that they can 
 be pounded to a paste with a little of the 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 175 
 
 water in which they were boiled, and then, 
 when mixed with an equal amount of butter, 
 spread over the toast. This giblet butter 
 may be varied to suit a variety of tastes. 
 A little chopped parsley may be added, or 
 a squeeze of lemon juice, or both, in which 
 case a complementary dash of cayenne must 
 be added. The meat of the partridge is so 
 dry that it is well to serve with it a sauce 
 made of melted butter, slightly seasoned 
 with onion and a dash of white wine, or 
 a tartar sauce is really excellent with broiled 
 partridge. 
 
 If these birds — partridges, grouse, and Same for 
 quail — are to be roasted, the garnishing in ^'"■^"''s's 
 either case must consist of seasoned watercress. 
 With the partridge is served a bread sauce, 
 but it 's a custom as old as the hills, and 
 for that very reason I have tried many ex- 
 periments to find a sauce more to my liking. 
 I have found it, and this is the way I pre- 
 pare it : half a pint of clear stock, preferably 
 white, seasoned with onion juice, a bunch 
 of parsley, a bay-leaf and four cloves, strained 
 through a napkin before using. The birds 
 will be much better if an ounce of butter is 
 
176 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 placed inside of them before cooking, and if 
 they are occasionally basted with melted 
 butter during the process of roasting. 
 
 Roasted Grouse need no sauce, especially if before 
 they are put into the oven they are stuffed 
 with one slice of bread each which has been 
 toasted and dipped in Madeira wine. They 
 may be larded, or barded, or basted with 
 melted butter while roasting, if it is thought 
 likely to improve their flavor. 
 
 Roasted Beware of cooks who assure you that they 
 Quail know how to roast quail until you have seen 
 their skill put to the test. It is a failing 
 common to too many cooks to over-roast 
 these dainty little birds. Fourteen to sixteen 
 minutes in a hot oven is quite long enough 
 to cook them to the point favored by epi- 
 curean palates. They should be served on 
 bread sliced and fried, and with them, if 
 desired, a very little of the clear sauce above 
 recommended for partridges. 
 
 Any of the pieces left from these birds 
 roasted may be daintily served with a may- 
 onnaise dressing, and you may be willing to 
 assert that the last state of that bird was 
 better than the first. 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 177 
 
 Velvet Soup. 
 
 Sherry, Amontillado. 
 
 Baked halibut with Parmesan cheese. 
 
 Roasted duck with olives. 
 
 Burgundy, Romance. 
 
 Cauliflower with bread crumbs. 
 
 Lettuce and cucumber salad. 
 
 Macaroon charlotte. 
 
 Toasted crackers. 
 
 Cream cheese. Coffee. 
 
 It was with the intention of preparing a 
 dinner according to the above menu that I 
 went about my duties *' all on a market day," 
 for it seemed to me upon looking it over to 
 be a dainty repast for four people, and 
 one wherein neither parsimony nor extrava- 
 gance held the trick hand. And a safe middle 
 course in one's daily regimen tends quite as 
 much to health and prosperity in individual 
 and nation as does the same policy in seem- 
 ingly weightier matters. 
 
 The velvet soup is easy of accomplishment, VeWet Soup 
 as one need only to have a quart of some 
 simple white stock on hand, made from veal 
 or poultry remnants, into which is stirred the 
 minced red part of four carrots seasoned with 
 pepper and salt and stewed till tender in but- 
 ter, two tablespoonfuls of tapioca which has 
 
Halibut with 
 Parmesan 
 
 178 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 been soaked for four hours in cold water, and 
 then let the whole boil for nearly an hour 
 before straining and serving. It is not only 
 easily prepared, but it is easily digested, as a 
 soup should always be which precedes a rather 
 rich fish course similar to that given above. 
 Balled About a pound and a half of halibut, at 
 eighteen cents the pound, will be required, 
 and it should be boiled till tender enough to 
 flake lightly ; then, if you have a rather deep 
 dish, with a border of mashed potato about 
 the inside, all will go smoothly. Into the 
 bottom of the dish put a layer of white sauce 
 made of half a pint of boiling milk, three 
 ounces of butter and a little salt, thickened 
 with flour; sprinkle in flakes of the fish, 
 then a layer of the sauce, adding a little milk 
 if it promises to be too dry, and so on till the 
 dish is full, having a layer of sauce on top. 
 Then scatter grated Parmesan over all, and 
 brown to a tempting shade. 
 
 With ducklings tender and toothsome, as 
 they should be in this month, it is plainly 
 seen that the next course is capable of being a 
 pece de r'esistance at a far more stately affair 
 even than the one which we are considering. 
 But if they are roasted in the ordinary way 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 179 
 
 known to every housekeeper in the land, 
 stuflFed with bread crumbs, highly seasoned, 
 and have a giblet sauce, quite an extraordinary 
 flavor will be given them if, just before serv- 
 ing, half a pint of pitted and quartered olives Roasted Duch 
 are added to the sauce. It's only a trifling «"'** O/'^^* 
 addition to the old way, you see, but the im- 
 provement is so great you will wonder 
 that every one does n't know of the gastronom- 
 ical harmony existing between duck and olives. 
 Now, the flavor of the ducks is so rich 
 and altogether satisfying that it takes only 
 the simplest and mildest-flavored vegetable to 
 complement this course. And nothing will 
 answer the purpose better than cauliflower. 
 If they are cut into pieces of uniform size, 
 they cook in a much more satisfactory 
 manner, and they should boil as gently 
 as possible ; do not add the salt to the 
 water till they are nearly tender. When 
 taking them up, drain well, and over all pour 
 melted butter thickened with browned bread- 
 crumbs, and send to table. I fancy you will 
 find them more to your liking served in this 
 way than in the old rutty way of so many 
 cooks, namely, with a white sauce, which 
 varies in different households from a fair 
 
i8o I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 quality of flour paste to a very rich and fairly 
 cloying concoction of cream and melted 
 butter. 
 
 There is nothing like a simple salad to 
 pt-epare one's palate for the sweets which come 
 at the last, and with hothouse cucumbers now 
 in evidence and lettuce always with us, the 
 making of a salad is a delight in more ways 
 than one. It is not so many years ago that 
 we had to pay from thirty-five to fifty cents 
 each for cucumbers at this season of the year, 
 but the large number of cucumber hothouses 
 near every city is fast bringing this desirable 
 vegetable to a state where it will be known 
 as an all-the-year-round commodity. 
 Macaroon There are a good many people, and the 
 number is increasing, who declare that to them 
 a dinner is finished by a bit of cheese after the 
 salad, and finished quite to their satisfaction, 
 too. But for those whose dinner is incom- 
 plete without a bit of sweetness, I would 
 recommend a macaroon charlotte made by 
 lining a dish with broken macaroons and then 
 filling the dish with whipped cream which has 
 been sweetened and flavored to taste ; adding 
 to it at last half a pound of crystallized 
 cherries. 
 
 Charlotte 
 
I GO A-MARKETING i8i 
 
 As to the wines, of course, it 's a matter of 
 purse and principle whether or not they 
 shall be served. I have suggested the kinds 
 appropriate to the courses, for the reason that 
 I have heard many a hostess " on hospitable 
 thoughts intent" wonder "what wine goes 
 with what" 
 
 To be sure, I went a-marketing t' other 
 day, and I was able to collect a stock of 
 valuable information which I came home 
 prepared to dish up for the delectation of 
 any who chose to read and profit by it. 
 But by some chance, or mischance, it oc- 
 curred to me that All-Hallows Eve is near 
 at hand, and that when it comes you girls 
 will be up to all sorts of pranks. Now, 
 years and years ago I was a girl myself, and 
 I can dimly recall that the playing of pranks 
 on the fairies' anniversary night induced a 
 desire for liquid refreshment, either for the 
 purpose of chirking up one's spirits when the 
 omens proved unfavorable or for helping out 
 the general merry-making when the signs 
 foretold bliss. 
 
 And a drink that seemed to me at that 
 
i82 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 Claret Tipple time apropos of either event we used to make 
 by slicing half a dozen juicy apples and three 
 lemons as a starting point. Then we would 
 lay them alternately in a large bowl, sprink- 
 ling each layer plentifully with sugar, and 
 over all would pour a quart of claret. Then 
 we would let it stand for fully six hours, pour 
 it through a muslin bag, and it was ready for 
 use. 
 Hot Spiced If you desire a hot drink, and it is likely 
 Claret ^j^^j. ^^^ ^-j]^ j£ ^.j^g tricks you have on hand 
 
 call you out of doors at midnight, you might 
 prepare one in this way : Have half-a-dozen 
 lumps of sugar, the juice of half a lemon, four 
 whole allspice, two whole cloves and half a 
 teaspoonful of greund cinnamon in a dish; 
 over it pour half a pint of claret and let it boil 
 for just two minutes, stirring it all the time. 
 Strain it into hot glasses and grate just a little 
 nutmeg on top as you serve it. At the first 
 sip the good qualities of this libation will pre- 
 sent themselves to you. 
 Hot Claret And for an encore you might vary it a little 
 Egg-nog i^jj. jj^ ^.j^jg ^g^y., gjjj. toggti^gr two table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar, the juice of half a lemon, 
 half a teaspoonful of mixed spices and half a 
 pint of claret. Boil this for two minutes and 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 183 
 
 then pour it over the yolks of two eggs that 
 have been beaten well with a teaspoonful of 
 sugar. Stir all the while that you are pouring 
 the wine slowly over the eggs. Grate a little 
 nutmeg over the top after you have poured 
 the mixture into hot glasses. Now mind, 
 don't get confused and pour the eggs into the 
 wine, for that would spoil everything ; pour 
 the wine over the eggs. And be thankful 
 that you have lived long enough to concoct 
 such a satisfying drink as this always proves 
 itself to be. 
 
 But if you feel that you must find a use for Hot Sherry 
 the whites of the eggs dissolve a tablespoonful ^99-"og 
 of powdered sugar in half a pint of hot water, 
 add to it half a pint of sherry wine and let 
 this come to a boil. Meanwhile have the 
 whites of the eggs beaten to a froth and pour 
 the hot mixture over them, stirring rapidly. 
 Pour into hot glasses, grating a bit of nutmeg 
 over the top of each. See to it that the ves- 
 sel in which you boil the wine is thoroughly 
 clean. You don't want even the faintest trace 
 of a taste of anything besides the ingredients 
 herein prescribed. 
 
 An orange punch is n't just the innocent 
 tipple that its name would seem to indicate. 
 
i84 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 Orange But that does n't hinder its being a treat for 
 Punch ^YiQ palate. Infuse the peel of three and the 
 juice of six oranges with three-quarters of a 
 pound of loaf sugar in two quarts of boiling 
 water for half an hour. Strain and add to 
 the juice a half pint of brandy and a liqueur 
 glass of maraschino. And it is quite likely 
 that you will think it needs a litde more 
 sugar ; if so, add it. Now it may be that 
 you will like this hot, or it may be that you 
 will like it cold ; in the latter case cool it on 
 the ice for several hours before serving or ice 
 it when serving. This is also an excellent 
 recipe for lemon punch — substituting lemons 
 for the oranges. 
 Cider Punch If you really long for drinks which seem 
 suitable for days the "saddest of the year," 
 why then see to it that your cider jug is 
 filled with sweet cider as a prerequisite, and 
 go ahead. Call your first effort a cider punch. 
 Peel a lemon and pour half a pint of sherry 
 on the peeling ; to the juice of the lemon add 
 a cupful of sugar, a little grated nutmeg and 
 a quart of cider. Mix this together thorough- 
 ly and then add to it the rind of the lemon 
 and the sherry. Let it get perfectly cold on 
 the ice, or if you are short of time ice it when 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 185 
 
 serving. Now if you wish to make this punch 
 a bit more insidious you can easily do so by 
 adding to it a wineglass of brandy. It will 
 be quite as palatable also, I think you will 
 find. 
 
 And then cider egg-nog is well worth the Cider 
 making and the drinking. Use a large glass ; 39-nog 
 beat up in it an egg and a scant teaspoonful 
 of sugar ; put in half a dozen small lumps of 
 ice, fill the glass with cider and grate a little 
 nutmeg on top. This is not only a very 
 pleasant drink, but it is an extremely whole- 
 some one. It will act as a pick-me-up many 
 times when one is tired or not feeling quite 
 up to the mark. 
 
 Another delicious potation that will be Quinoe 
 found of use at all sorts of occasions is quince ''"®'"' 
 liqueur. Grate a sufficient number of quinces 
 to make a quart of juice after it is squeezed 
 through a jelly bag. With this juice mix a 
 pound of sugar, six ounces of bitter almonds, 
 bruised, a dozen whole cloves and a gill of 
 brandy. Mix these all well together and set 
 away in a demijohn for ten days at least. 
 Then strain it through the jelly bag till it 
 is perfectly clear, and bottle for use. Be- 
 sides drinking this as a liqueur, you will find 
 
i86 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 that you can vary and improve a number 
 of your recipes for punch by adding just a 
 suspicion of it to them. 
 Various Cups At all times cups are alluring decoctions, 
 don't you think ? And there are many vari- 
 eties of them. But they all begin in the same 
 way. A cordial glass each of maraschino, 
 benedictine and brandy put into a quart jug, 
 and then if you fill the jug with champagne 
 you have champagne cup, with Rhine wine 
 you have Rhine wine cup, and with cider you 
 have cider cup. If you use claret you add 
 a few drops of lemon juice and double the 
 quantity of maraschino. 
 Rhine Wine But it may be that you prefer to take your 
 Seltzer Rhj^e wine with seltzer ; if so, just half fill 
 the glass with the wine and pour enough 
 seltzer to fill it. Both the wine and the seltzer 
 should be kept on the ice for some little time 
 before using. 
 Ginger If after all this array of non-temperance 
 Lemonade drinks you feel that you should turn 
 your attention to something milder, and 
 yet can't quite make up your mind to clear 
 cold water, why not try a ginger lemonade ? 
 Have a teaspoonfiil of powdered sugar in a 
 tumbler, add to it the juice of half a lemon 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 187 
 
 and fill the tumbler with ginger ale that has 
 been well iced. You will find this a pleasant 
 change from the ordinary lemonade, and for 
 many persons it serves to make ginger ale a 
 deal more palatable. 
 
 Now, if you should feel that you would Soda 
 like to serve a drink that is as innocent and (^o<>l^<"i 
 harmless as so much milk, but that when 
 judged by its name alone seems to be intended, 
 oh, my ! for very dissipated persons, indeed ! 
 let me suggest to you a soda cocktail. Fill a 
 glass with lemon soda, put into it a dash of 
 raspberry syrup and on top of it a thin slice 
 of orange. And, your very good health. 
 
NOVEMBER 
 
 " From our onun sel'ves our joys mustfloiu. 
 And that dear hut our home" 
 
 ONCE upon a time, a somebody who 
 was famous for his or her wit or 
 wisdom, or for both qualities, re- 
 marked that oftentimes the easiest and best 
 way to get over a difficulty was to go round 
 it. To my great regret, I can't give you the 
 name of the author of the very pithy saying, 
 neither can I tell you just what conditions 
 called it forth, but it 's safe to say that its 
 context was a suggestion or opinion offered 
 for the settling of some great big question of 
 state. But, what is more to the point, I can 
 be of help in showing you, I hope, how to 
 make a practical application of the epigram to 
 every-day affairs. Because, just as sure as we 
 are living, there is always a way to go round 
 if one can't get over the very toughest hands 
 that one gets in life's shuffle. 
 
 Now, there 's the servant-girl question in 
 its Sunday-night aspect. It exists ; it can't 
 be wiped out ; and it is impossible to ignore 
 it. She, or they, as the case may be, will have 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 189 
 
 "the evening out," come what may, and 
 guests are pretty sure to come o' Sunday 
 nights. Of course you can't send them home 
 supperless, and neither can you send your 
 family to bed in a semi-famished condition. 
 No ; you must go round the situation. And 
 it's not so hard. Indeed, my last trip to 
 market, which included a call at the grocer's, 
 was for the express purpose of picking up 
 points that would make the circuit easy for 
 you. 
 
 I 'm not going to say a word, here, about 
 the chafing-dish. And I will tell you why. 
 It is the custom in a large number of families 
 for the man of the house to preside at the 
 chafing-dish Sunday nights, and while my 
 stock of book-learning is very diminutive, I 
 have learned that under no circumstances is 
 it wise to offer suggestions to a man who 
 thinks he can cook. 
 
 Frequently it is easy to have some little 
 dish left ready by the cook which needs only 
 to be heated before it is served, but in nine 
 households out of ten cold viands are the staple 
 commodity. And the singular sameness is 
 surprising and saddening. If one is in the 
 habit of dropping in to " pot luck " at the 
 
I90 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 houses of one's iniimes, one soon learns to 
 reckon with a fair degree of certainty upon 
 what will be likely to be set before one. 
 
 Now, there are sandwiches. Once let a 
 housekeeper acquire a reputation for a partic- 
 ular brand of that edible, and it 's like getting 
 her to change her religion to induce her to 
 try making any other sort. But it requires 
 only a very little time, with a fair amount of 
 common sense, to have a sandwich repertoire 
 that will enable one to get through a fairly 
 long season without repetitions. 
 Caviare The next time you are to have caviare sand- 
 
 Sandwiches vpiches, try using brown-bread, sliced as thinly 
 as possible, spread with unsalted butter, and 
 then with a layer of caviare and a sprinkling 
 of lemon juice. And you will find them as 
 good as they are uncommon. 
 Oyster Then there are oyster sandwiches. Cook 
 
 Sandwiches ^hg oysters a bit, or till they are firm, then 
 when they are cool stir them into good stiff 
 mayonnaise, with a seasoning of red pepper 
 and just a few capers. Spread day-old bread 
 with this mixture and finish off, sandwich 
 fashion. You can use cold fish of any sojt 
 in this way ; having the bits very small, and 
 adding chopped gherkins to the mayonnaise. 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 191 
 
 And, better yet, use in this way any bits of Fish and 
 
 Game 
 Sandwiches 
 
 cold game, or poultry, using with them chop- '"^ 
 
 ped olives and chopped truffles. In either 
 case, you may if you like lay a lettuce 
 leaf on the bread and put the mixture on that. 
 But for myself I have always disliked the 
 addition of lettuce to sandwiches. 
 
 It is very easy to have savory butters. Savory 
 "beurres composes," so familiar to the French ^"***" 
 cuisine, and so give an infinite variety of 
 taste to any kind of sandwiches. Take, for 
 instance, unsalted butter and season it well 
 with anchovy essence, some very finely 
 chopped parsley, a bit of paprika, and spread 
 thin slices of bread with it and then use a 
 layer of any kind of cold meat. Or you 
 can use shrimp essence, or in fact any essence 
 or sauce that you think would prove to be a 
 favorite. 
 
 One of the most palatable ways, it seems to Crust 
 me, in which to make sandwiches is to take Sandwiches 
 paste, not pufF paste that is too rich, and roll 
 it out as thinly as possible; cut it into 
 rounds of uniform size spread around with a 
 certain mixture, then cover it with another 
 round of the paste, pinch the edges together 
 and bake them till they are brown. As to 
 
192 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 the mixtures, they may be made of an end- 
 less number of savory viands. Say bloater 
 paste softened so that it will spread easily 
 with a little melted butter. And then there 
 are all sorts of potted meats and devilled 
 things that seem almost as if they were made 
 expressly to be used in this way. Believe me, 
 you will find these sandwiches ever so dainty 
 if you get them small enough and thin 
 enough, and, by the way, they make a capital 
 appointment for the five-o'clock tea-table. 
 Sweet Now for the sweet sandwiches. They may 
 Sandwiches ^g j^^de with either white bread, cake, or 
 wafers — preferably the last. Have some 
 icing made by your favorite rule and sprinkle 
 into it chopped nuts of any kind and spread 
 the wafers with it. Or, use chopped crystal- 
 lized fruits and cherries preserved in mara- 
 schino ; and then try, the next time you make 
 this sort of sweets, some brandied fruits with 
 the icing. You might make a chocolate 
 icing and add to that some chopped 
 pistachios or almonds or preserved ginger. 
 But surely you 've enough now in the way of 
 a ground plan for the making of any number 
 of dainty and appetizing bouchees. 
 
 Just a word about jellied things. You 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 193 
 
 can have a pint of stock, white if possible, 
 season it with an onion, a bay-leaf, a bit of 
 thyme, a clove, and pepper and salt. Then 
 put in a good half-ounce of dissolved gela- 
 tine ; and turn about one quarter of it, after 
 straining, into a mould and set on ice to 
 cool. Have the rest of the jelly in a liquid Savory Jelly 
 state, but perfectly cold. When that in the 
 mould is set, have any sort of cold meat, 
 chicken, turkey, ham or tongue cut into 
 strips free of skin and bone, and pack it 
 into the mould with alternate layers of the 
 jelly, finishing with the latter. Now see how 
 successful you can be in making such a dish a 
 joy to the eye. Use sliced olives, gherkins, 
 capers, truffles, fanciful shapes of beet or any- 
 thing that your artistic eye will permit, and 
 sprinkle these through the dish as you go 
 along. Run a thin knife blade in between 
 the jelly and mould and then plunge the 
 mould into boiling water and the jelly will 
 unmould easily. 
 
 Then there are salads. To make one of Cheese Salad 
 cheese rub the yolk of a hard-boiled egg in a 
 basin with a tablespoonful of salad oil ; 
 add one teaspoonfiil of salt, a bit of cayenne 
 and a little made mustard ; when all is well 
 
 13 
 
194 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 mixed stir in about half a pound of grated 
 Parmesan cheese, the juice of an onion, and a 
 tablespoon of vinegar. Serve on lettuce 
 leaves. You will find that this will go par- 
 ticularly well with sandwiches of bloater paste. 
 
 But for a salad to be served with a jellied 
 meat, make one of nuts, one kind or several, 
 broken into bits, mixed with an equal quanti- 
 ty of sliced olives and spread with only a very 
 little mayonnaise. 
 
 I did want to tell you of ways to make 
 some very appetizing beverages, for the sort 
 of occasions we are discussing, but they will 
 have to wait. And perhaps it 's just as well ; 
 already my conscience is troubling me for fear 
 that you are going to be so taken up with the 
 goodies I have told you of that you will have 
 no inclination to think on "better things" 
 when it comes Sunday. But it can't be 
 helped now. 
 
 Last spring a certain Boston man with 
 his family moved into the country. Not 
 so far out, however, but that he could 
 come to town daily to attend to business, and 
 yet far enough from the gilded dome to be 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 195 
 
 able to buy sufficient land for a small farm 
 without paying all creation for it. The next 
 move was the stocking of the farm. So a 
 Jersey cow was bought to keep the family 
 supplied with cream, a flock of prize hens 
 was set at work in a bran new henhouse that 
 there might be fresh eggs on hand, and last 
 but not least, a pair of tiny young pigs were 
 secured to provide the household with sweet, 
 home-made pork when winter should set in. 
 And having secured the stock, the owner pro- 
 ceeded at once to make pets, collectively and 
 individually, of the whole equipment. Actual- 
 ly the cow would manage to look half-way 
 intelligent when he stroked her neck and told 
 her she was the sort that deserved to live in 
 clover the year round; the hens really did 
 add a note to their regular cackle when the 
 master was about, to show him that they knew 
 who gave them heaping measures of grain, 
 and the pigs, which he called Tim and Jim, 
 got in no time to know their names when they 
 were spoken by his voice. Well, cold wea- 
 ther came on and with it those crisp, frosty 
 mornings when a toothsomely seasoned sau- 
 sage with a potato puree makes an ideal 
 breakfast. So Tim and Jim went the way of 
 
196 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 all pork, and in due course of time their 
 owner had the satisfaction of seeing on his 
 own breakfast table pork " of his own raising." 
 And what do you think happened then ? 
 
 " Susan," said he to his wife, " I can't do 
 it ; if you will believe me, I can't eat that 
 pork. Give it away — give it all away. Never 
 have any more put on this table. Why, dash 
 it all, Susan, I may be a ninny, but I was 
 actually fond of Tim and Jim, and don't see 
 what I was thinking of when I had them 
 killed." 
 
 " Samuel," said the wife, a woman who 
 knew how and when to point a moral, " you 
 needn't call yourself a ninny; be thankful 
 for the feeling you have, because it can give 
 you a glimpse, though from afar oiF, of the 
 mighty power that will make of us a nation of 
 vegetarians, if we ever do become such." 
 
 And I, when I heard of this little episode, 
 fell to wondering if it would be such terribly 
 hard lines after all to be put on a strictly vege- 
 tarian diet. At any rate, I managed to turn 
 out one dinner, sans fish, sans flesh, sans fowl, 
 that did n't appear in the least like a substitute 
 for something better. You shall have the 
 menu: 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 197 
 
 Consomme with asparagus points. 
 Mushroom cannelons. Poached eggs with tomato. 
 Macaroni with cheese. 
 
 String beans with butter. 
 Walnut salad. 
 Lemon souffle. CoiFee. 
 
 As I was determined to be thoroughly Consomme 
 conscientious in the preparation of this dinner, ""*'' 
 
 , r 1 • r 1 Asparagus 
 
 using stock tor the soup was quite out or the 
 question, so I prepared it in this way : A 
 couple of onions, a carrot and a bunch of 
 herbs fried in plenty of butter till of a good 
 brown. Add to them a bunch of celery 
 chopped, with salt and pepper for seasoning, 
 and a tiny bit of sugar. Cover with water 
 and boil till the vegetables are quite tender. 
 Strain and add to the liquid a dash of sherry, a 
 few drops of lemon juice and some asparagus 
 points that have been cooked by themselves 
 till tender. Of course, the asparagus you will 
 buy in tins or glass just now, but for use in 
 this way it is quite as good as though freshly 
 cut. You will be surprised, I fancy, when 
 you see how savory a soup you have turned 
 out. 
 
 It isn't often that we feel justified in buying 
 fresh mushrooms at this time of year, but at a 
 
198 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 Cannelons of dinner of this sort where one is not obliged to 
 Mushrooms ^^^ f^j. ^ g^^^j^. ^j. f^j. game, one can afford to 
 
 be a little bit reckless in the matter of vege- 
 tables, especially when they are to be put to 
 such a delicious use as the making of can- 
 nelons. Coarsely mince a pound or so of 
 well-wiped mushrooms and toss them with a 
 little minced parsley in butter till nicely 
 browned ; then season with white pepper and 
 salt, adding a little more butter to moisten 
 the mushrooms till they are quite cooked. 
 Then stir in — oiF the fire — the yolks of 
 three eggs, a squeeze of lemon juice, and set 
 the whole aside to cool. Roll out some puff 
 or very short paste thin, cut it out in oblongs, 
 put a good spoonful of the mushroom mixture 
 on each oblong, roll these up like sausages, 
 moistening the edges to make them adhere, 
 brush them over with egg and fry in plenty 
 of oil or in butter. For myself, I prefer the 
 oil, and the using of oil for frying purposes 
 is n't the extravagant act that it seems at the 
 first flush to be, because it wastes very little 
 and can be used repeatedly for different 
 purposes. 
 
 The cannelons are to be served with the 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 199 
 
 poached eggs and tomato. And the directions 
 for preparing the latter dish are to be found 
 elsewhere in this book. 
 
 The macaroni with cheese you know all Macaroni 
 about, I dare say. Is this your way of doing ""*'' ^^^^^^ 
 it ? Break the macaroni into two-inch lengths 
 and drop into boiling salted water. When it 
 is quite tender pour cold water over it, drain 
 and stir about in plenty of melted butter till 
 each piece is well covered, then put into a 
 baking-dish, strew grated Parmesan cheese 
 over it and let brown in a hot oven. Just a 
 little bit of cayenne added to the cheese 
 improves the flavor wonderfully, to my 
 thinking. 
 
 You can find green string beans at the string Beans 
 provisioner's yet, or you can get them tinned, ""^^ ^""®'' 
 as you choose. I shall not presume to advise 
 you as to that, but for the cooking of them I 
 will say a word or two. Boil them till per- 
 fectly tender, then drain well and place 
 them in a pan with a tablespoonful or more 
 of fine herbs (minced chives or minced shallot 
 and parsley), with pepper, salt and lemon 
 juice and two ounces of butter; toss them 
 over the fire till the butter is melted and 
 serve. 
 
200 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 Perhaps this is n't the place to go into a 
 discussion of the circumstances that have 
 landed us as a nation at a point where we 
 think we must have turkey on Thanksgiving 
 Day, or be accused of showing a disrespect 
 for the Declaration of Independence. But 
 some time the matter will be attacked by some- 
 body who will spend a decade or so in the 
 Astor Library or the Boston Athenaeum to 
 discover who said " turkey " first and where 
 they said it. Evidently it was said in one 
 of those voices that are heard around the 
 world and its echoes have not begun to 
 diminish, so far as my ear can detect, even 
 yet. So turkey it is, I suppose. 
 Grape Fruit But this little talk shall be of the addenda 
 with Rum ^f j.jjg dinner. Know what addenda means, 
 don't you ? Well, call them " fixin's," then. 
 Nowadays grap'e fruit is a hard and fast 
 " fixin' " of a Thanksgiving Day dinner. 
 Before the soup it comes on cut in halves 
 with the seeds removed and also all of the 
 white pith in the centre of each half with a 
 pair of sharp scissors. Then by the taste of 
 them it is evident that about an hour before 
 they were put on the table they had a lump 
 of sugar and a teaspoonful of rum put into 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 201 
 
 each half, after which little refection they 
 reposed on the ice till wanted. Don't go on 
 the principle that if a little rum is good more 
 must be better and try to float the fruit in — 
 that would have been hailed as a rank outrage 
 even by Captain Shaddock himself — but just 
 be content to see how potent a little bit of 
 rum can be in good company. 
 
 If you want a grape fruit sorbet, think- Grape Fruit 
 ing it best to begin your dinner with Sorbet 
 oysters, you may pick out the pulp with a 
 fork in sizable bits, free from seeds and pith, 
 cover these bits with sherry and with a sprink- 
 ling of sugar and freeze. You know the 
 rest — how to serve it and the like. But you 
 may be firm in the conviction that when grape 
 fruit comes to your table it does n't make its 
 appearance till dessert. If so, you will allow 
 me to put in just a word, won't you ? The Fruit Salad 
 word is to advise you to get the pulp out as 
 recommended for the sorbet, mix with it an 
 equal quantity of Malaga grapes cut in halves 
 with seeds removed, covered with sugar and 
 sherry and iced for three or four hours before 
 serving. 
 
 I don't know whether it is true or not but 
 it seems to me more than likely that the mush- 
 
202 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 room hunters for science' sake are doing " us 
 folks " who like good things to eat a kind 
 turn by getting out so many books on the 
 subject of good, bad, and indifferent sorts. 
 At any rate, they are getting to be more plen- 
 tifiil every year and consequently should be 
 lower in price. Thanksgiving Day seems to 
 be a pretty appropriate time for having them. 
 You must spread yourself on that day, even 
 if you live on bread and cheese for the rest 
 of the month. Have them then and by them- 
 selves after the table is cleared of the " bird and 
 its fixin's," and have them in croquettes. 
 
 Of course, you knew just what to have for 
 dinner on Thanksgiving Day, and if perchance 
 you did n't there were plenty at hand to tell 
 you how the menu should be composed. So 
 just let me advise you how to prepare two or 
 three dishes, to be called Thanksgiving en 
 rhhauffiey if it will make things seem any more 
 prosperous to you. 
 
 Yes, I shall begin with turkey, because in 
 nine families out often, or perhaps ninety-and- 
 nine out of a hundred would be a closer esti- 
 mate, that bird formed the pihce de risistanee. 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 203 
 
 You know that if there's plenty to "go Broiled 
 
 round " at the first serving of a turkey the ^'"''"'' '■^^^ 
 
 legs are generally left untouched ; the carver 
 
 does n't feel like giving them to any one, and 
 
 when it comes to waiting on himself he thinks 
 
 he is entitled to a choicer bit. And so he is. 
 
 But you can use those legs all in good time. 
 
 Just gash them three or four times with a 
 
 very sharp knife, sprinkle them over with 
 
 salt, pepper and a few drops of lemon juice 
 
 and broil them over a hot fire till browned 
 
 well ; put them on a hot dish, pour a little 
 
 melted butter over them and send to table. 
 
 They will go uncommonly well, say for a 
 
 Sunday morning breakfast to help out with a 
 
 bacon omelet. 
 
 But if they are to do duty at luncheon. Broiled 
 devil them before broiling. Season them with ^^"1"^'',^ 
 salt and pepper and then rub lightly with 
 mustard which has been mixed with oil. Turn 
 the legs often while they are broiling, basting 
 them once in a while with a little melted but- 
 ter. When they are dished pour a little rich 
 brown gravy over them. And with them 
 cooked in this way serve a potato omelet. 
 Pardon the digression, and I will tell you how 
 this is made. It may not prove a digression. 
 
204 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 however, as it is quite possible that you had a 
 sufficient quantity of mashed potato left from 
 the Thanksgiving Day dinner to make it. 
 But if you didn't, boil four large potatoes 
 
 Potato and when soft mash them ; beat four eggs 
 '"^'®* with a cup of milk, mix it with the potatoes 
 and season with salt and white pepper. Cut 
 four or five ounces of bacon into tiny squares, 
 fry till crisp and brown, then mix in the 
 potatoes and stir over the fire till they are 
 heated through. Let brown well, fold the 
 omelet over and serve. 
 
 If there is a considerable quantity of the 
 
 Hiinced white meat of the turkey left over cut it up 
 
 Turhey with jntQ dice-shaped bits and add to it half its 
 Mushrooms • r j i 
 
 quantity or canned mushrooms cut in two ; 
 
 moisten well with bechamel sauce, season with 
 
 pepper and salt and let heat for ten minutes, 
 
 but don't stir it. Dish it on triangular pieces 
 
 of toasted white bread. Or, if you like, you 
 
 may use in place of the bechamel sauce, cream 
 
 and butter ; but, whatever amount of cream is 
 
 used, let it heat till it reduces to one-half. 
 
 A more savory hash may be made in this 
 
 way : Use any or all bits of the turkey and 
 
 chop them rather finely ; add a little chopped 
 
 parsley, a few drops of lemon juice, the juice 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 205 
 
 of an onion or two, and white stock enough Uinced 
 to moisten it sufficiently. Let it simmer for '"''''^y 
 half an hour very slowly and then add a 
 little white wine just before taking up. If 
 you are in the habit of using wine in cooking 
 you will know all about how much it will 
 require to give just the right flavor; but if 
 you are pledged to abstain from such practices 
 you won't want to know and you won't need 
 to know how much should be used, so I '11 
 not go into particulars. 
 
 But perhaps for good and sufficient reasons Goose Pie 
 you did n't have turkey at all but had roasted 
 goose, and if that is so please do use up the 
 tidbits by making a goose pie. Cut all the 
 meat from the bones and put the bones with 
 the skin into a saucepan with a little water to 
 boil slowly for two hours. Let it cool, and 
 skim off all the fat ; into the bottom of a deep 
 dish put a scanty layer of boiled and mashed 
 onions ; sprinkle well with salt and pepper, 
 put in a layer of the goose meat, then a 
 layer of the onions, and so on till the dish 
 is filled. Pour in the water in which the 
 bones were boiled, cover with a good crust 
 and bake in a moderate oven till the crust 
 is done. 
 
2o6 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 stewed Let me tell you also that stewed goose is 
 Goose ijy. jjQ means a slow sort of dish. In fact, it 
 is reckoned by a good many as being among 
 the joys of earth. Take two onions, peel 
 and chop, and put them in a saucepan with 
 a tablespoonful of butter and fry until soft; 
 dredge them with flour and stir in half a 
 pint or so of the water in which the bones of 
 the goose have been boiled. Cut up into 
 dice-shaped pieces any or all of the cold 
 cooked goose and put it into the saucepan 
 with a wineglass of white wine and a table- 
 spoonful of vinegar,and season to taste with salt 
 and pepper. Cover closely and stew for half 
 an hour slowly. Turn out and serve very hot. 
 Baked It is more than probable that, what- 
 
 Squash gyg^ glse you had for dinner, you saw fit to 
 have in addition squash boiled and mashed. 
 And it is safe to say that some of it was 
 left. So take this remnant and heat it well 
 with plenty of butter over the fire and then 
 put it into a baking dish. Scatter Parmesan 
 cheese over the top and brown it very quickly 
 in a hot oven. Serve this with your stewed 
 goose, and the trick is yours. 
 
 And suppose you had ducks for your din- 
 ner, could you find a better way than this 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 207 
 
 to serve up what was left of them ? Cut as Broiled 
 good-sized pieces as you can and dip them '^"^'< ^'"^^^ 
 in a little melted butter ; season with pepper sauce 
 and salt, and broil for a minute or so over 
 a hot fire. Arrange the pieces on a hot 
 dish and pour over them a sauce made in 
 this way : Fry two or three slices of fat 
 bacon and an onion together for five min- 
 utes ; add the juice of an orange and a wine- 
 glass of port or sherry wine with what salt 
 and pepper is needed. Strain it before 
 using. You will find this so delectable, I 
 dare say, that you will be ready to declare 
 that the last days of those ducks were better 
 than the first. 
 
 Did you ever make a duck salad in this Duck Salad 
 way ? Rub the bottom of the salad bowl 
 with a peeled onion, and squeeze in a few 
 drops of lemon juice. Put the cold bits of 
 duck in the bowl with what you consider a 
 suitable amount of chopped whites of boiled 
 eggs ; over this sprinkle a few quartered 
 olives and a handful or so of capers, and 
 then put in a layer of chopped watercresses. 
 Cover this with a layer of mayonnaise and 
 serve. Now if you want to use a little 
 turkey meat, or a little goose meat, or a little 
 
2o8 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 of each, to eke out what you have of cold duck, 
 go right ahead and do so. The salad will be 
 just as good as when duck alone is used and 
 perhaps some will think it even better. 
 Fish Salad Did n't you have a boiled or even a 
 broiled fish of some kind for your dinner, 
 either halibut, striped bass, or fresh cod? 
 If you did, just take what was left of it and 
 flake it up daintily ; put a layer of it in a 
 salad bowl that has been rubbed with an 
 onion, sprinkle the fish with salt and lemon 
 juice, put in a layer of shredded lettuce, dress- 
 ing this also with lemon juice and salt, another 
 layer of the fish and lastly one of lettuce. 
 Cover it all with a layer of tartar sauce, and 
 there you have a salad worth the eating. 
 'T would n't tempt a dying anchorite, perhaps, 
 but it 's quite good enough for human nature's 
 daily food. 
 
DECEMBER 
 
 " And 'we meet, luith champagne and chicken, at last." 
 
 ANY one can go to market if she has 
 the wherewithal and secure any kind 
 ^ of game that happens to be on the list 
 and be happy in the purchase and eating of 
 itj I dare say. But the happiest dames in these 
 times are those who have a husband or sweet- 
 heart in the field shooting straight to the 
 mark with all thoughts for the recipient of his 
 day's work. So it comes to pass that by ex- 
 press to many a door there come on these 
 fine crisp mornings boxes or hampers of game 
 birds. The next thing, of course, is to get 
 one's neighbors in to partake of them in order 
 that they may be set by the ears with envy. 
 I am with you. I will help you to make this 
 envy business complete while you are about it. 
 
 There shall be a dinner given — a dinner 
 which by a wise and palatable arrangement of 
 courses shall lead up to the game. 
 
 Now, you know all about scallops, of 
 course — and by "all" you mean fried and 
 served with tartar sauce. Bah ! to you and 
 
 14 
 
aio I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 your stereotyped dishes. Novelty I beg of 
 
 you, and then put in your way the means 
 
 to do as I beg. Do you appreciate it, I 
 
 wonder? I doubt it. 
 
 Scallops in Well, then, scallops after the bouillon. 
 
 Sheila Cook them in a little white wine till you 
 
 know they are done. Then drain, cut them 
 
 in halves or in quarters and add to them 
 
 half their quantity of minced onion fried till 
 
 tender, but not brown. Moisten with a little 
 
 white sauce, season with cayenne and salt, 
 
 heap in scallop shells, cover with bread-crumbs 
 
 moistened with melted butter and brown in 
 
 the hottest oven you can arrange. 
 
 Whereas it is agreed that the pleasure of a 
 
 repast must be continuous — not jerky — let 
 
 us plan for the next dish at your luncheon 
 
 Salmi of salmis of partridge, cold. The birds must be 
 
 _ . . ° roasted and then cooled. Cut them into neat 
 Partridge 
 
 pieces, removing all the skin. Boil the skin 
 and all the odd bits in a little red wine and 
 water. Season with salt and a bay-leaf and 
 thicken after it has boiled five minutes with 
 a little flour braided with butter. Take it 
 off, lift out all the pieces of meat and add 
 enough aspic jelly to stiffen it. Set on ice 
 and beat till stiff, then dip into it the neatly 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 211 
 
 trimmed pieces of partridge. Dress them on 
 a dish, using chop frills for the legs and set 
 on ice till the time comes for serving. 
 
 At this sort of a luncheon you know you 
 must have two dishes of game and to let the 
 first one be cold is doing the matter up as not 
 one neighbor in ten of yours would think of 
 doing. 
 
 Now for the next link In this gastronomical chicken Liver 
 harmony. Let it be chicken liver patties. Pa^'es 
 You know how to make the puff paste and 
 how to line the pans with it. Then you cook 
 the desired number of chicken livers till ten- 
 der, drain off the water, cover them with a rich 
 Spanish sauce in which are as many sliced 
 truffles as your means will allow. Of course 
 this must be hot when the patty pans are 
 filled with it and then the patties must be hot 
 when they go to table. 
 
 Now make way for the piice de rhistance. Roasted Teal 
 What shall it be ? He sent you blue-winged 
 teal duck, you say ? Could n't be better. 
 His intentions towards you are of the best, 
 you may depend. His blue-winged teal go 
 where his heart is every time, let me tell you. 
 Into each bird you will put a slice or two of 
 toasted bread which has been soaked in any 
 
212 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 red wine. Rub the inside of the bird well 
 with salt. Roast in a piping hot oven for 
 twenty minutes, basting five times with melted 
 butter. Garnish with sliced lemon when 
 serving. 
 Tomatoes You will want tomato with celery and 
 Stuffed with mayonnaise for this course, you know. 
 and Celery Have large, firm, fine tomatoes peeled care- 
 fully. Then cut a round out of the top 
 of each and scoop out all the seeds. Keep 
 the round whole, by the way. Fill each 
 tomato with celery chopped and mixed with 
 mayonnaise. Clap on the top in which you 
 have cut a tiny hole in the centre and in 
 this hole stick a little sprig of tender green 
 celery. 
 Macaroon Only macaroon custards are good enough 
 Custards to be served at this point and these you make 
 by covering half a pound of macaroons with 
 hot cream first. When cool, beat well. Then 
 add the yolks and whites beaten separately of 
 six eggs and a tablespoonful of brandy. Butter 
 some moulds, fill with the mixture and bake 
 for ten minutes. Unmould on lace paper 
 before serving. Yes, of course, have them 
 cold. "Who wants hot custard ? 
 
 For a drink ? Cider cup. Not here, but 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 213 
 
 elsewhere, a page or two away, will you find 
 directions for making this decoction. 
 
 A few pages back I related an account of 
 some of the happenings of my trip to market 
 in search of game birds of the smaller kinds. 
 Appended to this recital were given in a more 
 or less appetizing fashion a few directions for 
 preparing the birds which it seemed to me 
 must find favor with epicures and laymen 
 alike ; and, assuming that approval was ac- 
 corded these recipes, of which some were 
 begged, others borrowed and more stolen, I 
 am giving herewith hints for use in the 
 preparation of the larger birds to be had 
 now, with honors easy as to quantity and 
 quality. As to price, you may pay what you 
 will, almost, from seventy-five cents up to 
 three and four and even five dollars per pair. 
 
 To begin with, there are the toothsome 
 canvas-backs that lead in price and palate- 
 tickling properties. Now, I know quite as 
 well as you that not every one who pleases 
 may dine from canvas-back when fancy dic- 
 tates ; in fact, with nine out of ten house- 
 
214 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 holders something very like a dispute takes 
 place between the purse and the palate in 
 every instance where canvas-back forms the 
 piece de resistance at dinner. But the next 
 time the palate wins in the debate go straight- 
 way to market and secure its indulgence 
 from a marketman who will give you his 
 oath that the canvas-backs he has on sale 
 have fed on the banks where the wild celery 
 grows, i. e., along the Gunpowder River, a 
 tributary of the Chesapeake Bay, and you 
 may feel sure that you have the best the 
 market affords. 
 
 As to the cooking. Wasn't it that 
 wholly delightful old Colonel Carter who 
 laid it down as a law that to smother a 
 canvas-back in jelly of any sort or descrip- 
 tion was little short of criminal ? And that 
 he was right there are scores of persons 
 devoted to the art of good living ready to 
 Broiled attest. No ; if you are to have the bird 
 Canuas-back broiled, use a double-broiler, leave over the 
 fire ten minutes, eight will be better, and 
 serve with only a little melted butter having 
 in it a soup9on of lemon juice. There is 
 nothing there, you see, to encroach upon 
 the delicate flavor of the duck. About two 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 215 
 
 minutes before removing from the fire 
 sprinkle a little salt over the bird. 
 
 But if a roast of game seems to you Roasted 
 better calculated to round out your dinner Canvas-back, 
 scheme, then roast them, but don't have g(,„pg 
 them too well done ('t is said the blood should 
 follow the knife) ; and for a sauce have some 
 port wine heated in a bain-marie with a few 
 drops of orange juice added thereto. H'm, 
 talk about being able to tempt a dying 
 anchorite ! Sydney Smith may have thought 
 it a great height attained to concoct a salad 
 calculated to make that abstemious old recluse 
 dip his fingers in the salad bowl, but for me, 
 I 'd a thousand times rather prepare a dish fit 
 to tickle the palate of a gourmet who is some- 
 what aweary of good things ; and I fancy that 
 canvas-back so roasted and served is quite 
 capable of lending a fillip to the existence of 
 those most experienced in the joys to be found 
 in eating. 
 
 It's very sad, but it's also very true, that 
 there are instances where a redhead duck is 
 foisted upon an unknowing and consequently 
 unsuspecting purchaser in place of a canvas- 
 back. This is easily done, because of the 
 strong resemblance between them as to 
 
2i6 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 plumage and habits, for the two kinds fly 
 and feed in the same flock. But while the 
 flavor of the redhead is of a desirable quality, 
 it in no way approaches that of the canvas- 
 back. 
 
 In the cooking of the redhead duck, the 
 rules given for preparing canvas-backs may be 
 followed, with the exceptions that in the 
 melted butter used for the broiled bird a little 
 minced parsley will be an improvement, and 
 in the port wine sauce for the roasted duck 
 currant jelly may be melted and impart a 
 flavor that will be generally liked. 
 Roasted A favorite duck with many good diners is 
 Mallard Duck tjjg mallard, and when they are in good con- 
 Fried Celery dition they are quite worthy the favor shown 
 them. It is only a matter of choice whether 
 they shall be roasted or broiled ; if the latter 
 way is decided upon, then a garnishing of 
 fried celery makes a tempting dish more 
 tempting still. Only the tender, smallest 
 stocks of celery should be used, and then, 
 after being dipped in frying batter, they 
 should be fried quickly in butter. These 
 birds, and, in fact, all others, when being 
 broiled or roasted, should not be salted till 
 about two minutes before removing from the 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 217 
 
 fire. If the salt is put on earlier the meat is 
 apt to be tough and the quality of the flavor 
 somewhat injured. I don't know that cook- 
 ery books give this direction explicitly, but I 
 have found from experience that it is the case. 
 
 If you are to have your mallards roasted, 
 then by all means make a sour-apple marma- 
 lade, strain it through a sieve and add to it 
 half its quantity of unsweetened whipped 
 cream. If you have never tried this sauce 
 with roasted duck, then, my word for it, there 
 is a gastronomical delight waiting for you, and 
 I would n't advise you to keep it waiting long, 
 for you will be the loser. 
 
 Don't you recognize in this sauce an old 
 friend in a new dress? Why, of course, 
 roast duck and apple sauce is a dish our great- 
 grandmothers were fond of; but this latter- 
 day manner of preparing the sauce, you see, 
 idealizes it a bit and renders it so much the 
 daintier. 
 
 Another duck of delectable flavor is the 
 ruddy duck, or broadbill, as it is known in 
 some localities. They live in the fresh ponds 
 hereabouts, and as long as the ponds remain 
 unfrozen the ducks will be quite satisfied with 
 this climate. 
 
2i8 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 Teal ducks, too, especially the blue-winged, 
 are of excellent flavor, and, in addition to this, 
 the meat is said to be highly nutritious and 
 easily digested, making them desirable for 
 convalescents. There is also a green-winged 
 teal, but it is far inferior to the first-mentioned 
 variety. 
 
 One cannot very well decide upon the par- 
 ticular kind of game and the manner in which 
 it shall be served without giving some thought 
 to the salad that in reality acts as its supple- 
 ment. And the same rule which forbids the 
 serving of a rich, heavy sauce with game 
 applies to salads. The simpler the salad the 
 more keenly will you relish the game. 
 Chopped celery, lettuce, chicory, watercress 
 or cucumbers, with a simple French dressing, 
 are the salads par excellence to be served with 
 game. 
 
 By the way, not long ago some one 
 wrote to a certain weekly published in New 
 York asking if it was " good form " to serve 
 the game and the salad on the same plate. 
 It does n't seem to me to be a matter in any 
 way to be governed by what is called " good 
 form." Good taste and a very superficial 
 knowledge of epicureanism would enable their 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 219 
 
 possessor to understand that hot game should 
 be hot, not lukewarm, and that the salads 
 should be cold, and the only way to accom- 
 plish this is to have a plate for each. 
 
 Cut some slices of bread from a not too sardine 
 fresh loaf, trim them to an oblong shape, ^'^I'^P^ 
 remove all crust and toast a delicate brown. 
 Into a pat of butter mix some finely chopped 
 parsley, pepper and lemon juice, in suitable 
 proportions, and with the mixture coat the 
 slices of toast. Remove the skin and bones 
 from the desired number of sardines and lay 
 them on the toast ; garnish between the sar- 
 dines with hard-boiled eggs, chopped very 
 finely, the whites and yolks separately. 
 Sprinkle over all some minced parsley and 
 there you have a canape — a sardine canape — 
 one of the most delightful appetizers known 
 to good diners of this day and generation. 
 Moreover it is a fitting beginning for a 
 Christmas dinner of the kind which I am 
 about to submit for your approval. 
 
 The wisdom of following the canape with 
 the simplest soup possible will be quite appar- 
 ent, if I mistake not, some time before the 
 
220 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 4 
 
 Chicken dinner is a thing of the past. Why not. 
 Consomme therefore, prepare it in this way ? Take a 
 chicken, cut it in pieces and put it into a 
 saucepan with two quarts of water to sim- 
 mer gently until the scum begins to rise, 
 skim until every particle is removed, then add 
 salt, a carrot, an onion, two slices of turnip 
 and three celery stalks. Boil gently for two 
 hours, strain and serve, and your family and 
 guests will have reason to bless the hour when 
 you set before them a chicken consomme. 
 
 Oysters After the soup ? Well, suppose you lay 
 Baked with jn a deep dish fit to be placed in the oven 
 a bed of medium-sized oysters ; season them 
 with salt, pepper, and a few small pieces of 
 butter; sift over them some fresh bread- 
 crumbs and pour in a little sherry with some 
 of the oyster liquor ; repeat the same operation 
 until the dish is full, then besprinkle the 
 whole with bread-crumbs ; scatter small pats 
 of butter here and there, and set the dish in a 
 hot oven for fifteen minutes to color a light 
 brown, then serve, and serving be modestly 
 proud of the fact that you have prepared a 
 dish which sometimes appears upon the menu 
 at Delmonico's as " Huitres au Gratin a la 
 Crane." Order it the next time you are 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 221 
 
 lunching or dining at that hostelry and com- 
 pare your effort with that of the famous chef 
 at Delmonico's. For your sake, as well as 
 for my own, I trust that you will find that 
 the success turned out by your own cuisine 
 gains by the comparison. 
 
 Are you still wavering in your opinion as Goose 
 to whether your choice shall fall on turkey, **"#«'='""■** 
 
 , , ■' r I ^1 • ,• ^ Potato 
 
 ducks or goose for the Christmas dmner ? 
 Let it be goose then, for if properly cooked 
 and served they go far toward clinching the 
 success of the feast. But " properly cooked 
 and served," there 's the rub. And is n't it 
 enough to amaze a contemplative person to 
 note how wide apart are the conditions which 
 different housekeepers define by that phrase ? 
 Nevertheless I am going to tell you how it 
 seems to me a goose should be prepared to 
 answer the description. If the bird is of 
 medium size then you will want to boil and 
 mash eight or ten large potatoes; to them 
 add half a dozen small onions which have 
 been peeled and chopped as finely as possible ; 
 then season with white pepper and salt to 
 taste. Add at least half a pint of cream or 
 rich milk, about three ounces of melted butter, 
 and three eggs beaten to a froth. Whip the 
 
222 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 potato till it is light and smooth and fill the 
 inside of the goose with it. When it is sent 
 to the table have it garnished with very small 
 onions which have been boiled till tender 
 without losing their shape, and then fried a 
 light brown in butter. Nothing can be better 
 for a sauce than the giblets boiled till tender, 
 then chopped finely and returned to the 
 water in which they were boiled, with a little 
 Madeira, and a gill of button mushrooms cut 
 in halves ; thicken with a tablespoonful of 
 browned flour braided with an equal quantity 
 of butter. 
 Turnips with Although there may be in market a goodly 
 showing of vegetables from almost every part 
 of the country, not everything is calculated to 
 supplement the flavor of roasted goose so 
 well as is a sweet and well-flavored turnip. 
 Particularly is this the case if the turnips are 
 cut into fanciful shapes, such as dice, crescents, 
 etc., with the vegetable cutters, which come 
 expressly for this purpose, boiled till tender 
 and then served with melted butter and 
 chopped parsley poured over them. 
 
 Perhaps there are some housekeepers who 
 will think I should suggest an entree to fol- 
 low the goose, but at this season of the year 
 
 Butter Sauce 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 223 
 
 I am trying to live up to the golden rule, and Victoria 
 as at this point I should vastly prefer a punch ** 
 or a sorbet to anything else, I am going to 
 recommend that you be guided by my prefer- ^ 
 ence. You may take one quart of lemon 
 water ice to which has been added the whites 
 of three eggs beaten to a froth, a gill of kirsch 
 and half a pint of champagne, and send to 
 table in some of the pretty punch cups which 
 formed one of your Yule-tide gifts. You 
 may also serve cigarettes at the same time, 
 and, my word for it, your guests at table 
 assembled will have a keener appetite for 
 the next course than if you had sandwiched 
 in some rich entree. 
 
 With about nine out of every ten subur- 
 banites raising pigeons in these days it is 
 very easy to understand why the squabs in 
 the market are of such good quality and 
 are sold at such a reasonable price. And 
 under these circumstances don't you think 
 they will be excellent for the next course if 
 broiled to a turn and accompanied by a 
 salad of chicory or watercress ? 
 
 After the squabs the sweets. Few house- 
 keepers will think a Christmas dinner com- 
 plete without mince pies and plum-pudding. 
 
224 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 but I cannot suggest a way in which to 
 make them, for truth to tell, I never pre- 
 pared either, and I 'm above offering you 
 any recipes which I 've not tried, no matter 
 how true they may be. Consult your cookery 
 books if you 've not a favorite method of 
 your own for preparing these aids to indiges- 
 tion, and select those that seem least harmful. 
 
 Of course, there will be upon the table till ' 
 dessert is served celery, olives stuffed or plain, 
 salted almonds or pecans, etc. I know that 
 you know this, but had I neglected to men- 
 tion it more than likely you would have 
 accused me of being ignorant of the necessity 
 of having these side dishes at a dinner. 
 
 After the sweets the biscuit, cheese and 
 coffee, and if the cheese is to be of a par- 
 ticularly rich flavor, such as Camembert, 
 Roquefort, or Brie, then by all means serve 
 with it some of the little Bar-le-Duc currants, 
 both red and white. 
 
 Are you to have wine? Then make it 
 sherry with the soup, champagne with the 
 goose, and the v«ry best burgundy to be had 
 to accompany the squabs. 
 
 I fancy there is nothing more that I can sug- 
 gest that will add to your happiness or that of 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 225 
 
 your guests, who will probably feel very 
 grateful to you for spreading for them a 
 feast " delectable to eat and to behold." For 
 yourself, you will probably feel very grateful 
 that Christmas comes but once a year. 
 
 You shall not be put off with any side issue 
 in these very last pages, but shall have dished 
 up for your critical examination a list that 
 I promise you shall be a hodge-podge, a 
 melange, or, if it please your sense of the 
 fitness of things better, a macedoine of the 
 best edibles the market affords. 
 
 Doubtless when you have been in Western 
 cities you have dined many a time and oft at 
 those sky-high restaurants overlooking one of 
 the Great Lakes, and have had the waiter, with 
 an air of honesty made perfect by practice, 
 point out to you the very spot where the white- 
 fish you were at the minute admiring had been 
 pulled in scarcely three hours before. If so, 
 you know the delicious and unapproachable 
 flavor of the fish in their purest and best 
 estate. And yet they reach eastern markets 
 in a remarkable state of freshness and are 
 inexpensive enough to warrant any one in 
 
 IS 
 
226 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 trying them for a change from the kinds that 
 are more common here. 
 
 Broiled over a hot fire and served with a 
 simple sauce made of melted butter, lemon 
 juice and a sprinkling of cayenne they are 
 good enough to serve at any meal for any- 
 body. But you can make a more elaborate 
 dish from them by going to work in this way : 
 Baked Scale a rather good-sized fish, split it, remove 
 Whitefish jj^g backbone, and then season the fish well 
 with salt and pepper, dip it in beaten egg, 
 then in bread-crumbs, again in beaten egg, 
 and lay in a well buttered baking pan. 
 Bake in a hot oven till it is colored a good 
 brown. Take it up on a hot dish, set the 
 baking pan having in it the hot butter on the 
 top of the range and cook in it for a minute 
 or two half a pint of drained oysters ; arrange 
 the oysters round the fish and pour a little 
 melted butter over all, with a garnishing of 
 fried parsley. If you are having this dish for 
 luncheon, have with it some potato croquettes, 
 but if it is intended for dinner and a roast or 
 rich entree is to follow, then have a dainty 
 salad of crisp radishes with a handful of capers 
 shaken over them. 
 
 And now is the time if ever that fresh cods' 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 227 
 
 tongues should find favor. They are in- Boiled Coda' 
 expensive and in perfect condition, and by ""3"^^ 
 more than one gourmet are considered an 
 unrivalled delicacy. If this statement per- 
 suades you to give them a trial, just a word 
 as to preparing them : Have three pints of 
 water boiling in a saucepan, add to it two 
 carrots and half a dozen onions very finely 
 chopped, a few sprigs of parsley and two gills 
 of vinegar. When the vegetables are nearly 
 tender enough put into the saucepan with 
 them two pounds of cods' tongues. Let them 
 boil just once, then move back where they 
 will simmer but not boil for twenty minutes 
 or so. Take up the tongues, drain, dress 
 them on a hot dish and keep hot while you 
 prepare the sauce. For this drain the vege- 
 tables and toss them about in a frying-pan 
 in plenty of butter till they show signs of 
 browning a bit, then add to them some chop- 
 ped cucumber pickles and a few capers and 
 pour round the tongues. Season the sauce, 
 of course, with salt and pepper, and if you 
 are gifted with rare discretion in the matter of 
 spices use ever so little nutmeg in it; just one 
 or two turns of the grater will give you all 
 you should have. I intend to be very par- 
 
228 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 ticular in my choice of readers and hearers 
 when I suggest the use of nutmeg in savory 
 sauces, because there are so many house- 
 keepers as well as cooks who positively are 
 not to be trusted with a nutmeg in one hand 
 and a grater in the other ; they will persist in 
 going on the principle that if a little is good 
 more must be better, and then grate away for 
 dear life. 
 
 Of course you know that smelts are in their 
 prime, but is your sense of smell keen enough 
 to detect in that fish the likeness of its fra- 
 grance to that of the violet or of the cucum- 
 ber ? Well, the similarity is there if the fish 
 be as fresh as it should, and if you don't dis- 
 cover it you may add another to your list of 
 misfortunes, for they do say, those who know 
 whereof they speak, that inability to perceive 
 this subtle scent indicates a correspondingly 
 unappreciative palate. And so much for my 
 fish story. 
 
 Along with the many things for which we 
 have cause for rejoicing about this time of 
 year there should certainly be reckoned the 
 fact that game of almost all kinds is more 
 plentiful and less expensive than at other 
 seasons. And you know that under such 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 229 
 
 favorable circumstances as these I am wont 
 to urge you to make experiments in prepar- 
 ing the viand in question. Suppose, for 
 instance, that the next time you are to have 
 partridges you pretend to forget that these 
 birds are ever roasted or broiled, and so set 
 to work to serve them in this way : Have Fried 
 four partridges, cut off the breasts, divide them Partridge 
 in two and lay them aside ; boil the legs and 
 livers of the birds in salted water till they 
 are quite tender — so tender, in fact, that they 
 can be pressed through a rather coarse sieve. 
 Put this pulp into a saucepan with a gill of 
 the water used for boiling it, half a gill of 
 sherry wine, a bit of cayenne, an ounce of 
 butter, and salt if it is needed. Let this get 
 hot, very hot, without boiling, and keep it 
 hot while you cook the breasts. These fry 
 in butter and range in a circle on a dish with 
 alternate slices of bread also fried in butter, 
 and in the centre pour the sauce made from 
 the legs and livers. To be sure, you can 
 make the sauce somewhat richer by adding to 
 it chopped mushrooms or chopped truffles or 
 both. 
 
 Forget, also, for a time, your favorite ways 
 of cooking quails in order that you may pro- 
 
230 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 Roasted nounce judgment on this manner of preparing 
 Quai s ^.j^gjjj . Have half a dozen of them drawn 
 and singed for roasting. Chop up the livers, 
 double the quantity of chicken liver and as 
 much minced fat salt pork as liver; add 
 chopped parsley, salt, cayenne, three or four 
 drops of onion juice, a tablespoonful of very 
 fine bread-crumbs, and one beaten egg. Mix 
 these ingredients all well together and fill 
 the quails with it; roast them in a rather 
 moderate oven for twenty minutes, basting 
 occasionally with melted butter. Dress the 
 quails on a hot dish, squeeze a few drops of 
 lemon juice into the pan in which they were 
 roasted, adding a little melted butter, and 
 pour this sauce over the birds. 
 Roasted Or it may be that for yourself you prefer a 
 „ „ .''""f roasted black duck, but cannot gratify your 
 
 Stuffed with ' r i 
 
 Celery preference because some members of the 
 family will insist upon calling such a bird 
 " strong," when you know and speak of the 
 flavor only as being "gamey." Now, there's 
 a way out of the difficulty for all of you. Just 
 stuff the birds as full as you can with celery 
 tops, tie thin slices of fat salt pork over 
 their breaste and roast them till they are 
 
I GO A-MARKETING 231 
 
 quite tender and brown. You will find the 
 strong flavor entirely gone, while the gamey 
 taste will be so aided and abetted by the 
 celery that your palate will receive a new 
 and altogether delightful sensation. Surround 
 the ducks when serving with a border pre- 
 pared as follows : Brown some slices of bread 
 in the oven, and when of a good color and 
 very dry, roll and pass through a fine sieve, 
 mix these crumbs with a little butter, season 
 them with salt and pepper and heat well in 
 the oven before using. Serve with the ducks 
 also a hot apple sauce ; make it as you always 
 do and add to one pint of sauce an ounce of 
 butter. 
 
 With either of the ways suggested for cook- 
 ing game you will want to serve a salad, 
 probably, and you can't do better than, 
 decide to have one of escarole or of romaine 
 with a simple French dressing. But there 
 is chicory, of course, and there is lettuce, 
 and both of them in fine condition, if you 
 don't feel inclined to take my advice. And 
 there are cucumbers, from hothouses, and 
 there are hothouse tomatoes, that are 
 expensive or the reverse, according to one's 
 
232 I GO A-MARKETING 
 
 position on the financial question. In fact, 
 you can get almost any kind of vegetable 
 or fruit in the large markets to-day, and at 
 all times ; and if the particular thing that 
 you desire happens to be absent, just wait 
 a few minutes and your order will be filled 
 by lightning express from some part of the 
 world. 
 
Index 
 
 SOUPS PAGE 
 
 Asparagus .... 92 
 Bisque of clams ... 89 
 Chicken consomme . . zzo 
 Consomme with aspara- 
 gus 197 
 
 Puree of peas and spin- 
 ach 79 
 
 Savory tomato ... 87 
 
 Soup, velvet . . . . 177 
 
 FISH 
 
 Bluefish, Newport style 169 
 
 Cods' tongues, boiled . 227 
 
 Fresh cod, baked . . 9 
 
 Fresh cod, broiled . . g 
 Fresh cod, Delmonico 
 
 style 8 
 
 Fresh cod, flaked, in to- 
 mato sauce ... 37 
 Halibut, baked, with 
 
 Parmesan . . . . 178 
 
 Smelts, baked . . . 167 
 Smelts, broiled, Bear- 
 
 naise sauce . . . 167 
 Smelts, fried, with par- 
 sley 168 
 
 Trout, lake, boiled . . 50 
 
 Whitefish, baked . . 2z6 
 
 SMOKED OR SALT 
 FISH 
 
 Codfish with brown but- 
 ter 44 
 
 Codfish with cream . . 43 
 
 Cods' tongues, fried . 45 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Fillets of sole, casserole 
 of 51 
 
 Finnan haddies with 
 cream 48 
 
 Herring fried ... 47 
 
 Mackerel, boiled, horse- 
 radish sauce ... 46 
 
 Salmon, broiled ... 46 
 
 SHELL FISH 
 
 Clam cocktails ... 65 
 Clams, West Island 
 
 style 94 
 
 Clams and lobsters in 
 
 shells 95 
 
 Lobster a la Newberg 38, 130 
 Lobster croquettes . 
 Lobster, devilled 
 Lobster patties . 
 Lobster tartlets . 
 Lobster toast 
 Lobster tails stuifed 
 Oysters, baked . 
 Oysters, baked with 
 
 cheese 220 
 
 131 
 129 
 
 134 
 130 
 129 
 131 
 143 
 
 Oyster cocktails . . . 142 
 
 Oysters, creamed . . 37 
 
 Oysters, celery roast . 146 
 Oysters, devilled and 
 
 fried 145 
 
 Oysters, pickled . . . 147 
 
 Oyster pie .... 146 
 
 Oyster salad .... 17 
 
 Oyster sandwiches . . 190 
 
 Oyster soufHee ... 52 
 
234 
 
 INDEX 
 
 SHELL FISH — Cont. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Oysters, stewed, with 
 
 cream 144 
 
 Oysters, stuffed and 
 fried 145 
 
 Scallops in shells . . zio 
 
 BEEF, MUTTON, LAMB, 
 PORK, ETC. 
 
 Beef tongue . . . . 112 
 
 Cutlets, jellied . . . 140 
 
 Ham, roasted ... 5 
 
 Ham toast . . . . 102 
 
 Kidneys, en brochette . 25 
 Kidneys, fried, with 
 
 mushrooms ... 26 
 Kidneys, minced . . 27 
 Lamb croquettes . . 23 
 Lamb cutlets with mush- 
 rooms 135 
 
 Lamb, roasted, with 
 
 caper sauce ... 20 
 Lamb, roasted, with 
 
 macaroni .... 21 
 Lamb, roasted, with 
 
 onion puree ... zi 
 
 Lamb steak .... 66 
 Lamb steak, with Bear- 
 
 naise sauce ... 67 
 
 Lamb slices, broiled . 22 
 Lamb slices, fried with 
 
 chutney .... 21 
 Lamb slices, stewed with 
 
 onions and mushrooms 22 
 Lamb slices in chafing 
 
 dish 23 
 
 Liver, calf's, fried . . 28 
 
 Pigs' feet, broiled . . 6 
 Pork chops, broiled, 
 
 sauce piquante . . 3 
 
 Pork, roasted, onion 
 
 sauce 4 
 
 Sausages 2 
 
 Veal cutlets^ broiled . 83 
 
 POULTRY, GAME, ETC. 
 
 Chicken cream (cold) 42, 138 
 
 Chicken cream with to- 
 mato (cold) . . . 139 
 
 Chicken, fried, Italian 
 style 159 
 
 Chicken, fried with to- 
 matoes 160 
 
 Chicken, fried, cream 
 sauce 100 
 
 Chicken hash, baked . 84 
 
 Chicken livers, olive 
 sauce 39 
 
 Chicken liver patties . 211 
 
 Doe birds, roasted . . in 
 
 Duck, broiled canvas- 
 back Z14 
 
 Duck, canvas-back, 
 roasted, port wine 
 sauce 215 
 
 Duck, fillets, with or- 
 ange sauce . . . 207 
 
 Ducks, roasted, with 
 
 orange sauce . . . 160 
 
 Ducks, roasted, with 
 
 olives 179 
 
 Duck, stuffed with cel- 
 ery tops, roasted . . 230 
 
 Duck, mallard, roasted, 
 
 with fried celery . . 216 
 
 Game tarts . . . . 1 1 1 
 
 Goose pie .... 205 
 
 Goose, roasted, potato 
 stuffing .... 221 
 
 Goose, stewed . . . 206 
 
INDEX 
 
 235 
 
 POULTRY, ETC. — Cont. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Grouse pie . . . . 119 
 
 Grouse, roasted . . . 176 
 
 Partridge breasts, fried . aig 
 
 Partridge salmi (cold) . zio 
 
 Plover, roasted . . . 120 
 
 Quail, roasted . 176, 230 
 
 Teal (ducks) roasted . 211 
 
 Turkey in aspic . . . in 
 
 Turkey legs, broiled • 203 
 Turkey legs, devilled 
 
 and broiled . . . 203 
 
 Turkey, minced . . 205 
 Turkey, minced with 
 
 mushrooms . . . 204 
 
 VEGETABLES 
 
 Asparagus, baked . . 77 
 Asparagus tops with 
 
 cheese 90 
 
 Asparagus tops with 
 
 cream 76 
 
 Asparagus with savory 
 
 sauce 77 
 
 Cucumbers, fried . . 96 
 Cucumbers, stuffed and 
 
 baked 95 
 
 Mushroom camielons . 198 
 
 Oyster plant with cream 118 
 
 Peas with mint ... 92 
 
 Potato soufflee ... 67 
 
 Potato omelet . . . 204 
 
 Squash, baked . . . 206 
 
 String beans with butter 199 
 Tomatoes, broiled 
 
 devilled . . . . 161 
 Tomatoes, broiled, on 
 
 toast i6z 
 
 Tomatoes with celery 
 
 and mayonnaise . . 212 
 
 Turnips with butter 
 
 sauce 222 
 
 SALADS 
 
 Apple and celery . . 162 
 Asparagus . . . 77, 88 
 
 Brussels sprouts ... 16 
 
 Cheese 193 
 
 Duck 207 
 
 Fish 208 
 
 Herring 84 
 
 Lamb 24 
 
 Lettuce with chives . . 91 
 
 Nut 18 
 
 Oyster 17 
 
 Red cabbage ... 14 
 
 Sardine 16 
 
 Spanish onion ... 15 
 
 SWEET SALADS 
 
 Fruit — ^general . . 
 
 107 
 
 Fruit — summer . . 
 
 201 
 
 Fruit — ^winter . . 
 
 18 
 
 Pear 
 
 106 
 
 Pear salad. No. 2 . . 
 
 164 
 
 Pineapple .... 
 
 106 
 
 Strawberry . . . 
 
 105 
 
 EGG DISHES 
 
 
 Baked .... 
 
 57 
 
 Curdled in cream 
 
 SS 
 
 Eggs, curried 
 
 41 
 
 Eggs, snow . . . 
 
 62 
 
 Epicurean style . . 
 
 • $6 
 
 In tomato puree . 
 
 . ss 
 
 Omelet Celestine 
 
 61 
 
 Omelet jelly . . . 
 
 60 
 
 Omelet, Spanish . 
 
 59 
 
 Omelet strawberries . 
 
 60 
 
 Omelet with caviare 
 
 • 58 
 
236 
 
 
 INDEX 
 
 
 
 EGG DISHES -Cont. 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Peach sherbet . . 
 
 124 
 
 
 Omelet with chicken 
 
 Pineapple sherbet 
 
 124 
 
 
 liver .... 
 
 59 
 
 Rhubarb sherbet . . 
 
 81 
 
 
 Omelette soufflee 
 
 62 
 
 Victoria sorbet . . 
 
 223 
 
 
 Scrambled with truffles 58 
 
 Wine ice cream . . 
 
 137 
 
 
 Toast with Parmesan 
 
 57 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 FRUITS, COOKED 
 
 
 DESSERTS 
 
 
 Apple croquettes 
 
 3 
 
 
 Almond pudding 
 
 S3 
 
 Apple salad . . . 
 
 156 
 
 
 Charlotte, apricot 
 
 81 
 
 Apple sauce with orange 
 
 163 
 
 
 Charlotte, macaroon 
 
 180 
 
 Apple sauce with whip 
 
 
 
 Cream, banana . 
 
 108 
 
 ped cream . . . 
 
 163 
 
 
 Cream, coffee glacee 
 
 53 
 
 Apples, fried . . 
 
 155 
 
 
 Cream, gooseberry . 
 
 102 
 
 Apples in vanilla syruf 
 
 > 15s 
 
 
 Cream, peach . . 
 
 108 
 
 Grape jam . . . 
 
 149 
 
 
 Cream, raspberry . 
 
 108 
 
 Peach cream . . . 
 
 165 
 
 
 Macaroon custard . 
 
 212 
 
 Pears in vanilla syrup 
 
 157 
 
 
 Milk sherbet . . . 
 
 123 
 
 Pears stewed in claret 
 
 158 
 
 
 Musk melon jelly . 
 
 114 
 
 Pears, stuffed . . 
 
 164 
 
 
 Omelet Celestine 
 
 61 
 
 Pears, stuffed stewed 
 
 158 
 
 
 Omelet with jelly . 
 
 60 
 
 Peaches, brandied . 
 
 ■ 154 
 
 
 Omelet with strawberrie 
 
 s 60 
 
 Peaches, stuffed . 
 
 165 
 
 
 Omelette soufflee . 
 
 62 
 
 Plums, brandied 
 
 • 153 
 
 
 Raspberries, crystallizec 
 
 I 107 
 
 Plum jam . . . 
 
 152 
 
 
 Strawberries, frozen . 
 
 91 
 
 Quince jelly . . . 
 
 151 
 
 
 Strawberry fritters . 
 
 103 
 
 Quince marmalade . 
 
 150 
 
 
 Strawberry jelly . . 
 
 105 
 
 
 
 
 Strawberry pudding . 
 
 104 
 
 DRINKS 
 
 
 
 Strawberry sherbet . 
 
 124 
 
 
 
 
 Watermelon, iced . 
 
 99 
 
 Claret, hot, egg-nog 
 
 182 
 
 
 
 Claret, hot, spiced . 
 
 182 
 
 
 
 
 Claret tipple . . . 
 
 Cider cup 
 
 Cider egg-nog . 
 
 182 
 
 
 ICE CREAMS AND 
 
 ICES 
 
 186 
 
 
 Champagne sherbet . 
 
 125 
 
 185 
 
 
 Champagne sherbet witl 
 
 I 
 
 Cider punch . . . 
 
 184 
 
 
 strawberries . . 
 
 126 
 
 Ginger lemonade 
 
 . 186 
 
 
 Claret sherbet . . 
 
 126 
 
 Moss rose . . . 
 
 "5 
 
 
 Coffee ice cream 
 
 123 
 
 Orange punch . 
 
 . 184 
 
 
 Currant sherbet . 
 
 124 
 
 Quince liqueur . . 
 
 185 
 
 
 Grape fruit sherbet . 
 
 20I 
 
 Rhine wine cup . . 
 
 186 
 
 
 Kirsch sherbet . 
 
 127 
 
 Rhine wine seltzer . 
 
 186 
 
INDEX 
 
 237 
 
 DRINKS— Cont. p^^^ 
 
 Soda cocktail . . . 187 
 
 Sherry egg-nog, hot . 183 
 
 Various cups . . . . 186 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS 
 
 Butters, savory . . 191 
 
 Cider sauce ... 5 
 
 Croquettes, macaroni . ay 
 Croquettes, sweet corn 
 
 (canned) .... 11 
 
 Golden buck ... 41 
 
 Grape fruit with rum . zoi 
 
 Hash, sublimated . 12 
 
 Jelly, savory . . . 193 
 Johnny cake, Rhode 
 
 Island style ... 13 
 Macaroni, timbales . . 51 
 Macaroni with cheese . 199 
 Mayonnaise, with horse- 
 radish 79 
 
 Olives with caviare . . 78 
 
 Partridge, sauce for 175 
 Rice muffins . .12 
 
 Sandwiches, cav'are . . 190 
 
 Sandwiches, crust . 191 
 
 Sandwiches, fish . . . 191 
 
 Sandwiches, French 
 Sandwiches, game 
 Sandwiches, sweet 
 Sardine canape . 
 Sauce duchesse . 
 Sauce for calf's liver 
 Sauce, onion . 
 Toast, anchovy - 
 Toast for game . 
 Toast, sardine . 
 Tunny fish . 
 Welsh rabbit 
 
 PAGE 
 
 113 
 
 191 
 
 192 
 
 Z19 
 
 80 
 
 29 
 
 80 
 
 69 
 
 174 
 69 
 70 
 40 
 
 INVALID COOKERY 
 
 Barley, puree of 
 Beef tea . 
 Chicken broth with 
 
 meal 
 Chicken custard . 
 Chicken, sabayon of 
 Cream soup . 
 Invalid's chop 
 Rice, steamed 
 Tapioca jelly 
 Violet jelly . 
 
 oat- 
 
 s' 
 3a 
 
 31 
 33 
 32 
 32 
 35 
 3S 
 33 
 34- 
 
fPbrks on Cookery 
 
 MRS. LINCOLN'S COOK BOOK 
 
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