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COMPLETE MAKUAL
€iilttljatt0n 0f % ^tratokrrg;
DESCRIPTION OF THE BEST VARIETIES.
Ar^O, NOTICES OF THK
RASPBERRY, BLACKBERRY, CRANBERRY, CURRANT,
GOOSEBERRY, AND. GRAPE;
TITII DIRECTIONS FOR THEIR CULTITATION, AND THE SELECTION 01
THE BEST VARIETIES.
< tfxiv pTuiAwi tUfTv rtr.oinnii>iiJi^ linH bfcii proruil. the pluDP arott.iTN trial, ami lli* rt'MUlt la hsruBUco,'*
NEW AND USVISED EDITION.
HY R. G. PARDEE. ^
WITH A VALI7ABI.K APfKNDIX,
OCrTAIh'IK'l TUK UUM8RVATIO a nXn KXPKUlKttcK OF SiiMB OP Tn'. '.IIIiiDT eUCl-BHUPlTL
UUi-TIVATUUa OV IUBhII WaVITO in itUai CuUMTllV.
NEW-YORK:
ORANGE JUDD & COMPANY.
245 BEOADWAY. .
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Gi^T^^
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Etiturtril nccordiiig' to Act of Cvn|rreu, in the > uar l&Sft, l»y
C M SAXTON & CO.
lb the ClxiV « OflJcc o* tho Distrlet' Court of tne ITuited St&ttii, for the Soat^e^D Dibunvlsf
New York,
€aviit\\tB.
^ PACK
Pkefacc to thb Tbsth Be^'ised Edition. 6
Preface. 9
The Stkawberbt *. 13
Situation. IV
Selection of Soil ». . IS
Preparation of SoiL 19
Manures. , 21
Transplanting (Time and Manner of). 25
Mulching. 80
Watering, 31
Cultivation 82
Field Culture 34
Production 39
Renewal of Beds 42
Winter Protection 43
Sexui\llty, 48
Forcing 63
Seedlings. hi
Classification ' 68
Selection of Varieties 60
McAvoys Superior — Hovey's Seedling — ^Monroe Scarlet —
Burr's New Pine — Longworth's Prolific — Walker's Seed-
ling — ^McAvoy's Extra Bed — Jenney's ^eedling — Large Early
Scarlet — Crimson Cone — Iowa — Genesee Seedling — Willey
— Princess Alice Maud^^Boston Pine — Black Prince — Swain-
stone Seedling — Myatt's British Queen — Large White Bicton
Pine — Barr's Ifew Wlute — Prolific Hautboy.
aii)
IV CONTENTS.
PAUK
Analysis of the Strawberry Fruit and Plant 10
Saspberby SI
Fastolf — Franconi — Red and Yellow Antwerp — Knevett's Giant
— Large-fruited Monthly — Ohio Ever-bearing — Orange.
Blackberkt .' 1 88
White — Improred High Bnsh — ^New Eochelle.
Ckanbeskt .' . . .' 94
Black.-
CuERAKT. 98
Bladk Naples— White and Red Dutch— White and Red Grape
•^-Cherry — May Victoria — Knight's Sweet Bed — ^Largest
White Provence — La Versailles.
Gooseberry 99
Crompton's Sheba Qaeen — ^WfSodward's Whitesmith — Roaring
Lion — Crown Ebb — ^Houghton's Seedling, &c.
Gbai^. 104
Isabella — Catawba — Clinton — Concord- -Diana — Black Madeira
— ^Delaware — ^Anna — ^lowa, »»• months. '
APPENDIX E.
LETTEK FEOM PETEE B. MEAD.
September- 1st, 1854.
E. Gr. Pardee, Esq. : Dear Sir — ^Youx request, that
I would give you a few remarks on the culture of the
strawberry, I will now comply with, but necessarily in
a brief manner.. Fii^t let me say, that, I am glad to
learn that you are about to publish a manual On Straw-
berry Culture. Your long experience and marked
success win enable you to invest the subject with unu-
sual interest.
We cannot always command just such a soil as wo
want ; but we gejierally have the material at hand to
modify it so as to answer our purpose very well. , For
the strawberry I prefer a sandy loam, well drained,
and a southern exposure. An eastern aspect is also
good. Animal manures I do not much use, except on
a few of the hermaphrodites, and then very sparingly,
and only that which is well decomposed;, I much
prefer prepared muck, leaf-mould, i&o. When a stimu-
APPENDIX. 141
-Jant is required, a solution of guano, the salts of am-
monia, dilute tannic acid, cr a top-dressing of guano,*
superphosphate of lime, poiash, &c.,. answers the pur-
pose ■well.'^ I prefer the ammonia and tannic acid. . In
a garden, strawberries should be planted in beds, and
each kind kept distinct. Make the beds three feet wide,
put three plants in a row, the two outside ones being
six inches from the edge of the bed; the plants will
then be one foot apart. The' rows should be eighteen
inches apart; but in a small garden they may be one
foot apart. Select * joung plants in preference to old
ones. Set the plant up to the crown, but do not cover
it. Keep the ground open and porous, and free &om
weeds. A' word as to to the best tiirne for planting. I
prefer early spring ; but where a supply of water is at
hand, it iliay be done at any time; for only give the
strawberry plenty of water, and it will defy any amount
of heat. I would remark, en passant, that whoever
attempts to water his strawberries must do it thorough-
ly, if he would have his plants derive any benefit from
it. A thorough sodMng once a week will do more good
than fifty sprinklings a day. Where water is not at
hand, the planting should be done during August and
; * Further experience has led me to. dispard the use of guano,
particularly as a top-dressing. It is not only too stimulating for
the s'trawberry, but rapidly dissolves the regetable constituents of
the soil, which I consider essential to -the, plant. — January, 1§56., , i
142 ' _ APPENDIX.
September, taking advantage of a heavy rain. I prefer
the early part of September ; in fact, I have planted
Hovey, Burr's New Pine, Walker's Seedling, and
others, as late as the 21st of October, and every plant
survived the -winter without covering of any kind;
but I would not recommend planting later than Sep-
tember.
Next, a few words about mufcAiMg' and after-treatment.
Latterly I have seldom resorted to mulching. I have
a rake seven inches wide with prongs eight inches long^
made of highly tempered steel. This is my mulcher.
With this instrument I work between the rows from
spring till fall ; and frequently when the plants are in
fruit. I know I shall be told that this is a dangerous
practice, and I admit that it is in inexperienced hands;
indeed, I would not trust another to use it among my
own plants, owing to the danger of injuring their
fibres ; and yet I use it myself within an inch of the
crown. When, therefore, I cannot give the necessary
personal attention to my plants, I resort to the next
best mulcher, which is tan, either spent or fresh. I
prefer the latter. The ground should first be well
stirred, and the tan applied not more than one inch,
thick. If too much is applied it is apt to ferment and
kill the plants.- Many fine beds have been destroyed
in this way. Where tan cannot be had, leaves from
the woods may be used. These make an ad, urable
APPENDIX. 143
mulch, and promise, in my opinion, to take the first
place among mulchers. Hay, straw, grass, sawdudt,
&c., are also good; but whatever is used for this
purpose, the crown of the plantt must in no case be
covered.
The beds having been properly made, the after-
treatment becomes a very simple matter; indeed, I
know of no plant that gives such generous returns at
so small a cost of labor; but you must not infer from
this that I justify anything like neglect. The beds
must be looked over occasionally, runners removed,
weeds pulled up, and everything kept neat and clean.
In the spring, rake the mulching into the walks, stir
up the soil, apply a top-dressing if needed, and then
put back the mulching. The best mode, however, is to
apply one of the solutions before mentioned, after the
fruit has set. The bearing-seasbn may be considerably
prolonged by thorough watering, and will amply repay
the trouble where the means are at hand. - As soon as
the plants have done bearing, they will throw out run-
ners, which must be pinched off, unless plants are
wanted for new beds. I have no time to add more
here, except to say, that he who would have good
strawberries must cultivate them ; by which I mean the
opposite of letting them take care of themselves.
You will doubtless expect me to add a few words in
regard to some of the leading varieties ; but it would
144 APPENDIX.
be impolitic for me to say muoli on this point, since
you know I am now testing all tlie new varieties, and
condiicting a series of experiments having reference te
the natural history of this most interesting plant
Friends have furnished me with varieties entirely new,
and not yet sent out; but these I have only had Under
trial since last May, and it would be quite premature
to say much about them, though some -of them are
very promising. I am daily expecting more. At some
future time I shall review them "all. I do not hesitate
to say, however, that the following are good, with-
out at present designating them in any other way :
McAvoy's Superior, Hovey's Seedling, Moyamensinjj;;
Burr's' New Pine, Black Prince, Pennsylvania,* Mc-
Avoy's Extra Red, (rather acid), Boston Pine, Alice
Maude, Longwofth's' Prolific, Ex:cellcnte, "Walker's
Seedling, Beach's Queen, Large Early Scarlet, Ange-
lique. But I rather think I ^vill stbp, &r I know not
where this may lead me. Burr's New White and
Bicton Pine are both large white* vlarieties; the former
is best.
* Pennsylvania will, not .Ijear well or pro(iuce good, fruit except;
under generous treatment ; certainly not under trees, where, strangely
enough, I have seen it while- undergoing a trial ; and,' as may natu-
rally be supposed, a severe trial it proved. To the above list might
be added, Scott's Seedling, Kate, Monroe Scarlet, Wilson's Seed-
ling, Barry's No. 1, and others. No. 1, in my opinion, is much the
best of Mr. Barry's Seedlings. — January, 1856.
APPENDIX. 145
You also tell me you mean to add some directions
about the culture of currants, gooseberries, and other
amall fruits, as well as the grape. These things should
l)e better grown than they generally are. Gooseberries
and currants are usually seen as a mass of half-decayed
branches, without form or sightliness. It is next to
^impossible to bring these into shape, or develop their
maximum productiveness. It is better to begin anew.
Procure plants struck from cuttings ; grow them with
a clean stalk not less than six inches in height ; prune
them every winter, keeping the heads well open, and
shorten in last season's growth in the currant, but not
in the gooseberry. These fruits are generally planted
lagainst the fence, or in some out-of-the-way corner,
just where they should not 'be. Give thein an open
exposure, plenty of manure, and good culture, and you
■will be amply rewarded. The Red Dutch is best for
•general purposes ; but Knight's Sweet Red, Cherry,
.Prince Albert, White Grape, and others, may be added
where there is room.
The raspberry and blackberry are also desirable in
a garden, .furnishing a delicious fruit at an opportune
ssason. They both require a deep, rich soiL The
.blackberry may be. planted against an east fence', and
the raspberry against a west fence^about the best
places in the garden. The old wood of the raspberry
should be cut out after it has ceased bearing, and some
7
146 APPENDIX.
four or five canes of tlie new growth retained for next
season. The blackberry should be winter pruned, and
shortened in about the last of July. , They should both
be tied to stakes or to the fence, and the ground kept
free from weeds. Of raspberries, the Fastolf, Eed
Antwerp, and Yellow Antwerp are among the best.
Dr. Brinckle has raised several seedlings, one of which,
Ool. Wilder, I have grown and found to be good-
The above in some localities, will need protection in
winter, which is best done by bending down the canes
and covering them with earth. Mr. Van Dewenter,
of Astoria, has a new everbearing raspberry, which
will prove to be an acquisition.* '
Of blackberries, the Improved High Bush (of Boston)
and the New Eochelle are now pretty -well known,
The latter is certainly the best, and most productive-:
it is a most beautiful fruit, and worthy of general cul-
tivation. I saw a basket of this fruit from Mr. Eose-
velt, of Pelham, Westchester Co., the berries of which
measured from three to three inches and a half in cir-
cumference. Mr. Lawton has also shown fine speci-
mens. About a year since, while at Chester, Morris
* This is really a continual bcavor, Iiciiig- loadcil with froit until
further growth is checked by the severity fff the frost. It is a goo3
fruit of fair size, and ought to be widely disseminated. Thei Cata-
■y/issa, which is represented to possess the same everbearing quali-
ties, I have not seen Dr. Brinckle's Orange proves to be among
the best of all raspberries.— January, 1856.
, APPENDIX. 147
Co., K J., I saw a blackberry growing wild, closely
resembling tbe New Eochelle, and quite equal to it.
I have a variety, however, which I consider superior
to either of the above in point of flavor. It is very
"distinct in wood and foliage, and a strong grower. It
is a hybrid variety, and may be had of Mr. More, of
Yorkville. ..d
To say anything important of the grape in a few
lines is no easy matter. The best soil, I apprehend,
is a gravelly loam, Uioroughly underdrained, and sub-
soiled or trenched. We expect the vine to yield its
fruit for a lifetime at least, and should prepare the soil
accordingly. The ground having been trenched, dig
a hole not less than three feet square and two feet deep,
and fill up nearly a foot with a compost of manure,
bones, broken charcoal, lime rubbish, and vegetable
mould, or as many of these materials as can be pro-
cured, bit no dead dogs, cats, or horses* Over this
cotflpost put a layer of the best soil ; then take your
vine, spread the roots in their natural position, and fill
up carefully. Vines three and four years old are the
best, if they have been properly cared for, otherwise
I would prefer those two years old. . Pruning is a mat-
ter of the first importance. In gardens, vines are grown
upon either arbors or trellises, and the same kind pf
pruning will not answer for both. The arbor is gene-
rally used for the purpose of shade as well a& fruit.
148 APPENDIX.
and here spur-prumng is generally praptised, but
carried to such an extreme, thaJt in the course of years
the vines become knotty, stunted, and improductive.
The first year, little or no pruning is necessary ; if
there is much top, however, it must be cut into two or
three good-eyes. The vine is very tractable, and may
be trained in the most symmetrical manner; this,
however, is too often done at the expense of the best
fruit- wood. In the case of the arbor, after the leaders
have been trained to their places, and the vines have
come into bearing, do not prune closer than three eyes.
If the growth is likely to be too much, rub out the
middle eye, leaving the third for fruit, and the first
for bearing next year ; at which time cut away all the
wood down to this first shoot, which latter must be cut
to three eyes, rubbing out the second as before, and so
on from year to year. The truth is, it would require
several pages to explain this matter fully, but I have
no time for it. In the case of the trellis, what garden-
ers call cane-pruning is the best. Select as many shoots
as are wanted, and cut out all the rest ; these shoots
are then shortened into the first good eye ; but if this
jhould leave them too long, they must be cut to the
Jesired length. I regret that I have not time to explain
this fully ; but the principle is, to get rid of last year's
bearing-wood, and keep the new wood as near to the
body as possible. The grape border must be manuredi
APPENDIX 149
spaded, and cultivated with as mucli care as you would
bestow on a crop of corn. A summer pruning is also
necessary, which consists in thinning out the superflu-
ous growrth, and pinching in the laterals. The leaves
of the grape-vine must in no case be removed. The
best time to prune is in the fall and early winter^
The best grapes for this latitude are the Isabella,
Catawba, and Early Black,- or Madeira; the latter only
for the garden ; the Charter Oak, Eoyal Muscadine, (a
synonyme), and others of that class, are worthless hum-
bugs. The Diana is a smaiU, sweet and rather pleasant
grape, and desirable for localities where the Isabella
will not ripen.* The Clinton and some others which
are well spoken of I have had no opportunity of test-
ing, and I have seen the fruit of many seedlings, which
deserve no further mention, with the exception of a
white variety with the Catawba flavor, and ripening
first of September. I think this last will prove to be
a very good grape.
But this letter hag reached a great length, and I
must close it, with all its shortcomings. If it con-
* I have elsewhere stated, in a report, as the result of further
experience, that I consider the Diana valuable for general cultiva-
tion ; and since then, the American Pomological Society has put it
on its general list. It is certainly a fine grape. The Concord, in
regard to which there has been so much controversy, is deserving
of a full and fair trial. — January, 1856.
150 APPENDIX.
tains anything of use to you for the purposes of
your manual, you are at liberty to do what you please
with it.
Sincerely yours, Peter B. Mead.
APPENDIX F.
THE FRUIT AND VEGETABLE GABDEN".
BY i.N AMATEUB.
There are a few accessories of the homestead more
important than a good fruit and vegetable garden ; no
home is perfect without them. If there is one thing
more than another which adds to the comforts of a poor
man's cottage, it is a well-kept garden, in its largest
sense ; nay, it is a luxury, even to the millionaire. A
well-regulated house within, and a well-kept garden
without, make up much of the sum of human happi-
ness. How few such there are ! The garden is too
generally looked upon as something to minister to the
mere appetite ; but, when rightly regarded, it exercises
a moral and intellectual influence, which gives it a
strona; claim to the serious consideration of all who feel
any concern in the ultimate destiny of the human race.
Horticultural pursuits, above all others, bring into
healthy play those powers of body and mind, the
mutual exercise of which alone can keep up that just
APPENDIX. 151
equilibrium of the physical, intellectual, and moral
forces which makes the true man.
I will now submit a few practical remarks on what
may bfe called the Cottage Vegetable Garden, or rather
Fruit and Yegetable Garden ; for, on a limited plot,
they ought not to be. separated; There is no good
reason why a man with three or four city lots, each
25 by 100 feet, should not indulge the luxury of a few
choice fruits, equally with him who owns his acres.
In what follows, it is supposed that the lots run
north and south, the house being built on the north
front, and the flower-garcjgu- separated from the vege-
table by a rose-trellis the full width of the lots. The
flower-garden and lawn will occupy another article.
Let us suppose a man has four lots of ground, two
of which are taken up with a house, lawn, flower-gar-
den, &c. He will then have a plot 50 by 100 for a
fruit and vegetable garden. Now it will not do to use
half of this up with walks — a thing quite too common.
Beginning at the rose-trellis, lay off a central walk
four feet wide, through the length of the garden ; then,
immediately behind the rose-trellis, lay off a grape-
border ten feet wide, and parallel with this a walk
three feet wide, stopping three feet short of each side-
fence ; then borders three feet wide next the east and
west fence; then, parallel with these, a walk three feet,
wide J then a central walk four feet wide, through the ,
152 APPENDIX.
width of the garden, and a walk three feet wide close
to the south fence." This arrangement will make four
large central beds, each 40 by 17 feet, besides the bor-
ders. The beds and borders should be edged with
box, kept closely cut. The whole garden should be
trenched two or three feet deep. To make the walks,
dig out the soil three feet deep ; fill in with stones
about one foot, and cover them with stout brush ; then
put.in the soil, and finish with about six inches of
coarse sand or gravel, raising the walks a little in the
middle. Roll them from time to time till they become
settled ; a good coating of salt will help to make them
hard, and keep them free from weeds. • "Walks thus
made will keep your feet dry, and your beds tolerably
well drained — the latter an object which should never
be lost sight of, especially where early fruit and vege-
tables are desired. There are some matters connected
with grading and levelling, which must be determined
by the circumstances of each particular case. Lastly,
there should be some eighteen inches of good soil, of
which sod mould is the very. best. No amateur can
hope to have a good garden, pleasantly worked, unless
everything is properly prepared from the beginning;-
hence these particulars.
Now let us S3e what permanent "fixtures" aro
wanted. Four feet from the rose-trellis, put in a row
of posts, six or seven feet high and eight feet apart,
APPENDIX. 153
upon wbich stretch foux stout wires. Plant a grape-
vine between each post, and, keep them well pruned,
on the cane system. Eschew all charlatans and hum
bugs, whether in the shape of men or vines, and among
the latter, especially the Charter Oak.- The walk, if
made as directed, will keep this border well drained —
a matter of much moment, where well-flavored grapes
are desired. Two or three loads of gravel, incorpo-
rated with the soil, would make it still more congenial
to the grape. Between each vine, and some three feet
from the box edging, put in a rhubarb plant, and
under it a good heap of manure. This is a good
arrangement, notwithstanding some may object to it.
In the centre of this border, where the wide walk
intersects it, a summer-house may be erected.
In the border around the east fence, plant .the black-
berry, some three or four feet apart ; in the west bor-
der, plant the raspberry at about the same distance.
It would be well, however, to reserve a portion of the
west border for a few plants of sage, parsley, thyme, &c.
There now remain the four large beds, the borders
of which may be occupied with dwarf fruit trees ; no
others should ever be grown in a garden, and by no
means plant them in an auger-hole. I would recom-
mend chiefly pears; but, for the sake of variety," a
couple of plums, apricots, cherries, quinces, &c., may
be added. These should be planted in the border of
7*
154: APPENDIX.
the large beds, about three feet from the box edging,
and some eight feet apart. Between each tree a cur-
rant or gooseberry bush may be planted ; these should
be. raised from cuttings, grown to a single stalk, and
regularly winter-pruned. This mode of planting is
good in itself, and leaves all but the border of the
large beds for the vegetables, strawberries, &c. One bed
may be occupied with strawberries and asparagus, but
the latter must be kept three or four feet from the
fruit trees.
Having disposed of the principal permanent arrange-
ments, let us look for a moment at such vegetables as
will have to be raised annually. For this purpose we
have left three of the large beds. It is taken for
granted that a good supply of well-prepared barn-yard
manure has been procured, as well as a set of steel
garden implements, which latter should always be kept
as bright as a new penny. First make up your mind
what you will grow, and how much of it. Then spread
on a good coating of manure, and spade twelve inches
deep. It is surprising to a novice how, much can be
grown on a given surface. Beets, carrots, salsify,
parsnips, lima beans, and some others, will occupy the
ground the whole season. Beets should be sown thick,
in drills six inches apart, each alternate row to he used
for greens, as well as the thinnings of the others.
Between the carrots, &c., radishes may be sown.
.APPENDIX. 155
Leauce, radishes, &c., may be sown in the raspberry
and blackberry borders. Peas should be sown iii.
double drills six inches apart, at intervals of three
feet. "Between the peas may be planted beets for
greens, radishes, spinach, lettuce, &c., making two
drills of each. The peas will come off in time for
turnips, late cabbage, brocoli or celery; the latter
should be planted in beds, the earth thrown out one
spade deep, the celery planted in rows, one foot apart,
and the plants from six to ten inches in the rows.
Snap beans will be off in time for cabbage, turnips,
fall spinach, &c. If beans are wanted in the fall, they
may follow onions, where these have been grown from
sets. A few cucumbers may be planted in the fruit
border. Sugar-corn should be planted in drills three
feet apart, the plants six inches in the drills for the
sinall early varieties, and about a foot for others. For
a succession, plant from early spring till the first week
in July, two or more drills at a time, according to the
wants of the famil3% Corn map may be planted after
some of the crops named above. If one piece of
ground is used, a portion of it will give you some early
spinach and peas. Radishes may also be planted from
time to time along the fruit border, but too much of that
will injure the trees. A few egg-plants and peppers
may also be planted in the fruit border, but hot imme-
diately under the trees. By the exercise of a little
156 APPENDIX.
judgment, a variety of things may be made to follow
each other in this way; so that no spot of ground need
necessarily remain unoccupied for a single day during
the whole season.
The ground must be kept free from weeds, and well
worked at all times. When the weather is dry, use the
hoe more frequently than usual, (a narrow, low-pronged
rake is best), which will enable the ground to absorb
moisture from the atmosphere, of which it always con-
tains some, even in the dryest weather.- Frequent
stirring of the 'soil is important in another respect, in
keeping it open and porous, and enabling it to take
up the gases of the atmosphere, which constitute no
inconsiderable portion of the food of plants. It will
also give an earlier and better crop. Discard the prac-
tice of earthing your plants, except for the purpose of
blanching. Hilling should not be tolerated, except in
soils naturally retentive of moisture ; the true remedy
for which consists in underdraining, and not in hilling.
The preceding remarks are mostly of a general
nature, but a few words may be said here of the time
and labor necessary to cultivate and keep in order a
garden like that here described. A person familiar
with the operations to be performed, and expert in the
use of implements, can generally perform the necessary
labor (unless he is dronish) without detriment to his
daily business ; on the contrary, he will find himself
APPENDIX. 157
invigorated for the discharge of ita duties. At all
events, he will need but a few days' assistance for the
rough work, I know that very much more than this
has been done for years, apd will continue to be done.
I speak this for the encouragement of those who desire
to surround their homes .with these luxuries, but whose
means will not permit them to employ a permanent
gardener. Much time is lost for want of proper know-
ledge. The' best advice I can give the novice is, first.
to learn what is to be done, and then learn how to do
it, and always do it well. May the day come when
even the common laborer shall be blessed with the
comforts of a good home, and rejoice " under his own
vine and" fruit "treel "
THE
SMALL FEUIT CULTUEIST.
Bl
ANDREW S. FULLER.
Beautifully Illustrated.
We have heretofore had no work especially devoted to small
fruits, and certainly no treatises anywliei'e tliiit give the information
contained in this. It is to tlie advantage of special works that the
autlior can say all that he has to say on any subject, and not be
restricted as to space, as he must be in those works that cover the
culture of all fruits — great and small.
This book covers the whole ground of Propagating Small Fi'uits,
their Culture, Varieties, Packing for Market, etc. While very full on
the other fruits, the Currants and Raspberries have been more care-
fully elaborated than ever before, and in this important part of his
book, the author has had the invaluable counsel of Charles Downing.
The chapter on gatliering and packing the fruit is a vitluable one,
and ill it are figured all the baskets and boxes now in common use.
Tlie booli is very finely and thorouglily illustrated, and makes an
admirable companion to the Grape Cuiturist, by the same aulliur.
CONXENTSi
Chap. 1.
Chap. II.
ClIAP. III.
Chap. IV.
Chap. V.
Chap. VI.
BARBBRnV.
Strawberry.
Raspberry.
Blackberry.
DwAUF Chehry.
Cuurant.
Chap. VII. Gooseberry.
Chap. VIII. Cornelian Cherry.
Chap. IX. Cranberry.
Chap. X. Huckleberry.
Chap. XL Shbperdia.
Chap. XII. Preparation poi.
GATHERUtG FkUIT;
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DRAINING FOR PROFIT,
AXD
DRAINIJNG FOR HEALTH.
BY
GEO. E. WARING, Jb.,
BSGrSKKB OF THB DRAINAGE OF THE CENTRAL PARK, NEWTORK.
"BTXBT lUEPORTXD 0A8B OF FAILVBB IS DBAHTAGE WSICH WB HATB INTBftTZ*
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OB BAD BXBCUTIOX.*'— G^iflfiomtf.
CONTENTS:
Gliapter I.— 1.AND TO BK DRAIKKD AND THE R&ASOVS
"WHY.
Cbapter n.-BOAV DRAINS ACT, AND HOW THKY AFFKCT
the: soil.
Chapter IIL-HOIV TO (K> TO 1VORK TO IiAT OVT A
SYSTSDI OP DRAINS.
Chapter IV.-HOIV TO DIAKS THB DRAINS.
Chapter V.— H01V TO TAKE! CARS OF DRAINS AND
DRAINED liANDS.
Chapter in.-IVHAT DRAININa COSTS.
Chapter VII.-'WII.Ii IT FAY?
Chapter Vni.-HO'W TO MAKE DRAINING TII.ES.
Chapter IX.— THE RECIiAIDIING OF SAXT MARSHES.
Chapter X.— MAliARIAIi DISEASES.
Chapter XI.-HOVSE AND TOWN DRAINAGE.
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A VALUABLE HEW BOOK.
THE GRAPE VINE.
BY FREDERICK MOHR^ -
DOCTOR or PHILOSOPHY AND MEDICINE.
Translated from the German, and accompanied with Hints
on the Propagation and General Treatment of
American Varieities.
This work is mainly devoted to the most elementary matters. It ex-
plains the structure ana mode Of growth of the vine so clearly that no
intelligent pereon- who read's it need' he in doubt what to do with^his
vines. It has been well translated, and a chapter on the propagation
of American varieties has been substituted for the original one on multi-
plying tl e Buropean grape. As anatomy is the foundation of surgery,
so is a knowledge of the structure of the vine to the vine-dresser. Id
Licch casus, it is as important to.know when and where to cut and how.
CONTENTS:
nevelopniciit and Structare of the Orape Vine.
The Nude; Tbe Braiicli; Reasons ror Pruning; Priintne*
'JTralnlug on Trellises; Summer Treatment; Plantations.
Vines Trained along tbe Garden Walk.
Trellises uu iralls; Tree Trellises.
Vinos Trained to Trellises; Bronner's jTIetliod.
Time Required for Covering a Trellis,
manuring the Vine; Age of Vineyard.
The Rising Sap in the Vine ; The Grape Disease.
Treatment of Vines Injured by Frost.
Implements ; Proper Time to Perforin Work on the \ luo.
Constituents of the Vine and their Distribution.
Propagation of tbe Vine: By liaycrs; By Cuttings; By
Grafting; By Inarching; By Seeds.
Hybridization.
American Varieties — General management; Planting;
Pruning; iPinching; Covering in Fall.
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THE AMERIOAK
FOR 1868.
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This volume is now ready, and contains much of intorest *,o •
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By Gakdneb B. Weeks, Esq., Secretary of the American Dairy,
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practice and the most approved apparatus, buildings, etc., fully il-
lustrated, and is equally interesting to the practical dairyman and
to the novice.
Sewers and Earth-Closets
In^thdr relations to AgrieuUnre, by Col. Geo. E. Wakino, Jr.
Winter IVlicat,
Describing, with engravings, new and valuable varieties by Joseph
Hakris and John Johnston ; an article upon
Scytlies and Cradles,
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VALUABLE AND BEAUTIFUL WORK.
HARRIS'
Insects "Injurious to Yegctatioii.
BT THE LATE
THADDEUS WILLIAM HARRIS, M.D.
A New Edition, enlarged and improved, with additions from the author's
manuBcripts and original notes.
UlnBtrated by engravings drawn from nature under the supervision of
PliOrfESSOR A-GASSIZ.
Edited by CHAHLES L. FLINT,
Secretary of the Massachusetts State Board of Agriculture.
C03>TTE3JSrTS.
CHAPTER I.
INTRODUCTION. — InsectsDefined— Brain and Nerves— Air-Pipes and Breath-
ing-Holes— Heart and Blood— Metamorphoses or Transformations—
Classiilcation ; Orders and Groups.
CHAPTER II.
COLEOPTERA— Beetles— Scai-abTians-Ground-Beetles— Tree-Beetles— Cock-
chafers — Flower, Stag, Spring, Timber, Capricorn, Leaf-mining, and Tor-
toise Beetles — Cnryaomelians — Cantharides. ^
CHAPTER III.
ORTHOPTERA. -Earwigs — Cockroaches- - Soothsayers — Walking-sticks or
Spectres— Mole, Field, Climbing, and Wingless Crickets— Grasshoppers —
Katydid — Locusts.
CHAPTER IV.
HEMIPTERA.— Bugs— Squash-Bug— Clinch-Bug— Plant Bugs— Harvest Flies—
Tree-Hoppers — Vine-Hoppers — Plant-Lice — ^American Blight— Bark-Lice.
CHAPTER V.
LEPIDOPTERA. -Caterpillars — Butterflies — Skippers — Hawk-Moths— ^£re-
rians or Borin" Caterpillars— Moths — Cut-Worms- Spau-Worms- Leaf-
Eollers— Fruit, Bee, Corn, Clothes, and Feather-Winged Moths.
CHAPTER VI.
HYMENOPTERA —Stingers and Piercers -Saw-Flies and Slugs- Elm, Fir,
and Vine Saw-FIy — Hose-Bush and Pear-Tree Slugs — Horn-Tailed
Wood- Wasps — Gall-Fliea — Barley Insect and Joint Worm.
CHAPTER VII.
DIPTERA. — Gnats and Flies— Maggots and their Transformations- Gall-
Gnata- Hessian, Wheat, and Kadish Flies— Two-Winged Gall-Fliea. and
Fruit-Flies.
rtPPENDIX.—Tlie Army Worm.
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4C=^ — ■ — =^=3-^
GARDENING FOR PROFIT,
In the Market and Family G-arden.
Bt Petee Hendbesoit.
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country. Its author is well known as a market gardener of eighteen
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to the profitable culture of the commercial or
It is a work for which there has long been a demand, and one
which will commend itself, not only to those who grow vegetables
for sale, but to the cultivator of the
FASEIIY 6ABDEN, .
to whom it presents methods quite different from the old ones gen-
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not made up, as books on gardening too often are, by quotations
from foreign authors.
Every thing is made perfectly plain, and the subject treated in all
its details, from the selection of the soil to preparing the producta
for market.
CONTENTS.
Men fitted for the Business of O-ardenins.
The Amount of Capital Required, and
"Working li'oro^^ per Acre.
Profits of Market Gardenins,
Iiocation, Situation, and Laying Out.
Soils, Drainage, and Preparation.
Manures, Implements.
Uses and Management of Cold Frames.
Formation and Management of Hot-beda.
Forcing Fits or Qreen-houses.
Seeds and Seed Balsing,
How, When, and Where to Sow Seeds.
Transplanting, Insects.
Packing of Vegetables for Shipping,
Preservation of Vegetables in "Winte*.
Vegetables, their Varieties and Cultivation.
In the last chapter, the most valuable kinds are describeil, and
the culture proper to each is given in detail.
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AMERICAN POMOLOGY.
APPLES.
By r>oct. JOHN A.. "WA.KDER,
PKllSIDSKT OHIO POXOLOOIOAI. eoOIETT! TIOE-PMSIDIHT AMBBIOAH POJIOLOOIOi*
8*0IETT.
393 ir.l.VSXRATI01\S.
This volume has about 750 pages, the first 375 of which are de
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Bery culture, selection and planting, cultivation of orchards, care of
fruit, insects, and the lilse ; the remainder is occupied with descrip-
tions of apples. With the richness of material at hand, the trouble
was to decide what to leave out. It will be found that while the
old and standard varieties are not neglected, the new and promising
sorts, especially those of the South and West, have prominence.
A list of selections for different localities by eminent orchardists la
a valuable portion of the volume, while the Analytical Index ot
Catalogue Saisonni, as the French would say, is the most extended
American fruit list ever published, and gives evidence of a fearful
amount of labor.
OOIT TENTS.
Chapter I.— IWTRODUCTORY.
Cbapler n.— HISTORY OF THK APPI.E.
Chapter III FROPAGATIOW.
Ends and CuttingB — Grafting— Budding— The ISxaeeij.
Chapter TV DIVARFING.
Chapter V.— DISKASES.
Chapter TI— TKE STTE FOR AN ORCHARD.
Chapter VII.— PRXlPARATlOiy OF SOII. FOR AN ORCHARD.
Chapter THI SELECTION AND PIiANTING.
Chapter IX.— CVIiTURI!, Etc.
Chapter X.— PHII.OSOPHY OF PRUNING.
Chapter XI THINNING.
Chapter XH — RIPENING AND PRESERVING FRITITS.
Chapter XIII and XIV.— INSECTS.
Chapter XV.— CHARACTERS OF FRUITS AND THEIR
VAL.UE— TER9IS USED.
Chapter XVI CI.ASSIFICATION.
Necessity fop— Basis of— Characters— Shape — Its Hegn-
larity-Plavor-Color— Their several Values, etc., Do
Bcriptiou of Apples.
Chapter XVH.— FRUIT 1,ISTS— CATAL.OGUB AND INDEX OF
FRUITS.
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The following are some of the topics tliat are treated:
Growinq New Varietiks prom Seed.
Propagation by Single Buds or Ete8.
' Propagating Hooses and their Managemkxt fdllt described.
How TO Grow.
Cpttings in Open Air, and now to Make Layers.
Grafting the Grape — A Simple and Successful Method.
Htbbidizing and Crossing — Mode op Operation.
Soil and Situation — Planting and Cultivation.
PRn.>fiN8, Training, and Trellises — all the Systems Kxplained,
Garden Culture — How to Grow Vines in a Door-Yard.
Insects, Mildew, Sun-Scald, and other Troubles.
Description op the Valuable aM) the Discarded Varieties.
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