385 New York State College of Agriculture At Cornell University Ithaca, N. Y. Library 3 1924 052 390 535 Cornell University Library The original of tliis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924052390535 COMPLETE MAKUAL €iilttljatt0n 0f % ^tratokrrg; DESCRIPTION OF THE BEST VARIETIES. Ar^O, NOTICES OF THK RASPBERRY, BLACKBERRY, CRANBERRY, CURRANT, GOOSEBERRY, AND. GRAPE; TITII DIRECTIONS FOR THEIR CULTITATION, AND THE SELECTION 01 THE BEST VARIETIES. < tfxiv pTuiAwi tUfTv rtr.oinnii>iiJi^ linH bfcii proruil. the pluDP arott.iTN trial, ami lli* rt'MUlt la hsruBUco,'* NEW AND USVISED EDITION. HY R. G. PARDEE. ^ WITH A VALI7ABI.K APfKNDIX, OCrTAIh'IK'l TUK UUM8RVATIO a nXn KXPKUlKttcK OF SiiMB OP Tn'. '.IIIiiDT eUCl-BHUPlTL UUi-TIVATUUa OV IUBhII WaVITO in itUai CuUMTllV. NEW-YORK: ORANGE JUDD & COMPANY. 245 BEOADWAY. . (3 ?2.a y^ U^ Gi^T^^ ii> ■'■ Etiturtril nccordiiig' to Act of Cvn|rreu, in the > uar l&Sft, l»y C M SAXTON & CO. lb the ClxiV « OflJcc o* tho Distrlet' Court of tne ITuited St&ttii, for the Soat^e^D Dibunvlsf New York, €aviit\\tB. ^ PACK Pkefacc to thb Tbsth Be^'ised Edition. 6 Preface. 9 The Stkawberbt *. 13 Situation. IV Selection of Soil ». . IS Preparation of SoiL 19 Manures. , 21 Transplanting (Time and Manner of). 25 Mulching. 80 Watering, 31 Cultivation 82 Field Culture 34 Production 39 Renewal of Beds 42 Winter Protection 43 Sexui\llty, 48 Forcing 63 Seedlings. hi Classification ' 68 Selection of Varieties 60 McAvoys Superior — Hovey's Seedling — ^Monroe Scarlet — Burr's New Pine — Longworth's Prolific — Walker's Seed- ling — ^McAvoy's Extra Bed — Jenney's ^eedling — Large Early Scarlet — Crimson Cone — Iowa — Genesee Seedling — Willey — Princess Alice Maud^^Boston Pine — Black Prince — Swain- stone Seedling — Myatt's British Queen — Large White Bicton Pine — Barr's Ifew Wlute — Prolific Hautboy. aii) IV CONTENTS. PAUK Analysis of the Strawberry Fruit and Plant 10 Saspberby SI Fastolf — Franconi — Red and Yellow Antwerp — Knevett's Giant — Large-fruited Monthly — Ohio Ever-bearing — Orange. Blackberkt .' 1 88 White — Improred High Bnsh — ^New Eochelle. Ckanbeskt .' . . .' 94 Black.- CuERAKT. 98 Bladk Naples— White and Red Dutch— White and Red Grape •^-Cherry — May Victoria — Knight's Sweet Bed — ^Largest White Provence — La Versailles. Gooseberry 99 Crompton's Sheba Qaeen — ^WfSodward's Whitesmith — Roaring Lion — Crown Ebb — ^Houghton's Seedling, &c. Gbai^. 104 Isabella — Catawba — Clinton — Concord- -Diana — Black Madeira — ^Delaware — ^Anna — ^lowa, »»• months. ' APPENDIX E. LETTEK FEOM PETEE B. MEAD. September- 1st, 1854. E. Gr. Pardee, Esq. : Dear Sir — ^Youx request, that I would give you a few remarks on the culture of the strawberry, I will now comply with, but necessarily in a brief manner.. Fii^t let me say, that, I am glad to learn that you are about to publish a manual On Straw- berry Culture. Your long experience and marked success win enable you to invest the subject with unu- sual interest. We cannot always command just such a soil as wo want ; but we gejierally have the material at hand to modify it so as to answer our purpose very well. , For the strawberry I prefer a sandy loam, well drained, and a southern exposure. An eastern aspect is also good. Animal manures I do not much use, except on a few of the hermaphrodites, and then very sparingly, and only that which is well decomposed;, I much prefer prepared muck, leaf-mould, i&o. When a stimu- APPENDIX. 141 -Jant is required, a solution of guano, the salts of am- monia, dilute tannic acid, cr a top-dressing of guano,* superphosphate of lime, poiash, &c.,. answers the pur- pose ■well.'^ I prefer the ammonia and tannic acid. . In a garden, strawberries should be planted in beds, and each kind kept distinct. Make the beds three feet wide, put three plants in a row, the two outside ones being six inches from the edge of the bed; the plants will then be one foot apart. The' rows should be eighteen inches apart; but in a small garden they may be one foot apart. Select * joung plants in preference to old ones. Set the plant up to the crown, but do not cover it. Keep the ground open and porous, and free &om weeds. A' word as to to the best tiirne for planting. I prefer early spring ; but where a supply of water is at hand, it iliay be done at any time; for only give the strawberry plenty of water, and it will defy any amount of heat. I would remark, en passant, that whoever attempts to water his strawberries must do it thorough- ly, if he would have his plants derive any benefit from it. A thorough sodMng once a week will do more good than fifty sprinklings a day. Where water is not at hand, the planting should be done during August and ; * Further experience has led me to. dispard the use of guano, particularly as a top-dressing. It is not only too stimulating for the s'trawberry, but rapidly dissolves the regetable constituents of the soil, which I consider essential to -the, plant. — January, 1§56., , i 142 ' _ APPENDIX. September, taking advantage of a heavy rain. I prefer the early part of September ; in fact, I have planted Hovey, Burr's New Pine, Walker's Seedling, and others, as late as the 21st of October, and every plant survived the -winter without covering of any kind; but I would not recommend planting later than Sep- tember. Next, a few words about mufcAiMg' and after-treatment. Latterly I have seldom resorted to mulching. I have a rake seven inches wide with prongs eight inches long^ made of highly tempered steel. This is my mulcher. With this instrument I work between the rows from spring till fall ; and frequently when the plants are in fruit. I know I shall be told that this is a dangerous practice, and I admit that it is in inexperienced hands; indeed, I would not trust another to use it among my own plants, owing to the danger of injuring their fibres ; and yet I use it myself within an inch of the crown. When, therefore, I cannot give the necessary personal attention to my plants, I resort to the next best mulcher, which is tan, either spent or fresh. I prefer the latter. The ground should first be well stirred, and the tan applied not more than one inch, thick. If too much is applied it is apt to ferment and kill the plants.- Many fine beds have been destroyed in this way. Where tan cannot be had, leaves from the woods may be used. These make an ad, urable APPENDIX. 143 mulch, and promise, in my opinion, to take the first place among mulchers. Hay, straw, grass, sawdudt, &c., are also good; but whatever is used for this purpose, the crown of the plantt must in no case be covered. The beds having been properly made, the after- treatment becomes a very simple matter; indeed, I know of no plant that gives such generous returns at so small a cost of labor; but you must not infer from this that I justify anything like neglect. The beds must be looked over occasionally, runners removed, weeds pulled up, and everything kept neat and clean. In the spring, rake the mulching into the walks, stir up the soil, apply a top-dressing if needed, and then put back the mulching. The best mode, however, is to apply one of the solutions before mentioned, after the fruit has set. The bearing-seasbn may be considerably prolonged by thorough watering, and will amply repay the trouble where the means are at hand. - As soon as the plants have done bearing, they will throw out run- ners, which must be pinched off, unless plants are wanted for new beds. I have no time to add more here, except to say, that he who would have good strawberries must cultivate them ; by which I mean the opposite of letting them take care of themselves. You will doubtless expect me to add a few words in regard to some of the leading varieties ; but it would 144 APPENDIX. be impolitic for me to say muoli on this point, since you know I am now testing all tlie new varieties, and condiicting a series of experiments having reference te the natural history of this most interesting plant Friends have furnished me with varieties entirely new, and not yet sent out; but these I have only had Under trial since last May, and it would be quite premature to say much about them, though some -of them are very promising. I am daily expecting more. At some future time I shall review them "all. I do not hesitate to say, however, that the following are good, with- out at present designating them in any other way : McAvoy's Superior, Hovey's Seedling, Moyamensinjj;; Burr's' New Pine, Black Prince, Pennsylvania,* Mc- Avoy's Extra Red, (rather acid), Boston Pine, Alice Maude, Longwofth's' Prolific, Ex:cellcnte, "Walker's Seedling, Beach's Queen, Large Early Scarlet, Ange- lique. But I rather think I ^vill stbp, &r I know not where this may lead me. Burr's New White and Bicton Pine are both large white* vlarieties; the former is best. * Pennsylvania will, not .Ijear well or pro(iuce good, fruit except; under generous treatment ; certainly not under trees, where, strangely enough, I have seen it while- undergoing a trial ; and,' as may natu- rally be supposed, a severe trial it proved. To the above list might be added, Scott's Seedling, Kate, Monroe Scarlet, Wilson's Seed- ling, Barry's No. 1, and others. No. 1, in my opinion, is much the best of Mr. Barry's Seedlings. — January, 1856. APPENDIX. 145 You also tell me you mean to add some directions about the culture of currants, gooseberries, and other amall fruits, as well as the grape. These things should l)e better grown than they generally are. Gooseberries and currants are usually seen as a mass of half-decayed branches, without form or sightliness. It is next to ^impossible to bring these into shape, or develop their maximum productiveness. It is better to begin anew. Procure plants struck from cuttings ; grow them with a clean stalk not less than six inches in height ; prune them every winter, keeping the heads well open, and shorten in last season's growth in the currant, but not in the gooseberry. These fruits are generally planted lagainst the fence, or in some out-of-the-way corner, just where they should not 'be. Give thein an open exposure, plenty of manure, and good culture, and you ■will be amply rewarded. The Red Dutch is best for •general purposes ; but Knight's Sweet Red, Cherry, .Prince Albert, White Grape, and others, may be added where there is room. The raspberry and blackberry are also desirable in a garden, .furnishing a delicious fruit at an opportune ssason. They both require a deep, rich soiL The .blackberry may be. planted against an east fence', and the raspberry against a west fence^about the best places in the garden. The old wood of the raspberry should be cut out after it has ceased bearing, and some 7 146 APPENDIX. four or five canes of tlie new growth retained for next season. The blackberry should be winter pruned, and shortened in about the last of July. , They should both be tied to stakes or to the fence, and the ground kept free from weeds. Of raspberries, the Fastolf, Eed Antwerp, and Yellow Antwerp are among the best. Dr. Brinckle has raised several seedlings, one of which, Ool. Wilder, I have grown and found to be good- The above in some localities, will need protection in winter, which is best done by bending down the canes and covering them with earth. Mr. Van Dewenter, of Astoria, has a new everbearing raspberry, which will prove to be an acquisition.* ' Of blackberries, the Improved High Bush (of Boston) and the New Eochelle are now pretty -well known, The latter is certainly the best, and most productive-: it is a most beautiful fruit, and worthy of general cul- tivation. I saw a basket of this fruit from Mr. Eose- velt, of Pelham, Westchester Co., the berries of which measured from three to three inches and a half in cir- cumference. Mr. Lawton has also shown fine speci- mens. About a year since, while at Chester, Morris * This is really a continual bcavor, Iiciiig- loadcil with froit until further growth is checked by the severity fff the frost. It is a goo3 fruit of fair size, and ought to be widely disseminated. Thei Cata- ■y/issa, which is represented to possess the same everbearing quali- ties, I have not seen Dr. Brinckle's Orange proves to be among the best of all raspberries.— January, 1856. , APPENDIX. 147 Co., K J., I saw a blackberry growing wild, closely resembling tbe New Eochelle, and quite equal to it. I have a variety, however, which I consider superior to either of the above in point of flavor. It is very "distinct in wood and foliage, and a strong grower. It is a hybrid variety, and may be had of Mr. More, of Yorkville. ..d To say anything important of the grape in a few lines is no easy matter. The best soil, I apprehend, is a gravelly loam, Uioroughly underdrained, and sub- soiled or trenched. We expect the vine to yield its fruit for a lifetime at least, and should prepare the soil accordingly. The ground having been trenched, dig a hole not less than three feet square and two feet deep, and fill up nearly a foot with a compost of manure, bones, broken charcoal, lime rubbish, and vegetable mould, or as many of these materials as can be pro- cured, bit no dead dogs, cats, or horses* Over this cotflpost put a layer of the best soil ; then take your vine, spread the roots in their natural position, and fill up carefully. Vines three and four years old are the best, if they have been properly cared for, otherwise I would prefer those two years old. . Pruning is a mat- ter of the first importance. In gardens, vines are grown upon either arbors or trellises, and the same kind pf pruning will not answer for both. The arbor is gene- rally used for the purpose of shade as well a& fruit. 148 APPENDIX. and here spur-prumng is generally praptised, but carried to such an extreme, thaJt in the course of years the vines become knotty, stunted, and improductive. The first year, little or no pruning is necessary ; if there is much top, however, it must be cut into two or three good-eyes. The vine is very tractable, and may be trained in the most symmetrical manner; this, however, is too often done at the expense of the best fruit- wood. In the case of the arbor, after the leaders have been trained to their places, and the vines have come into bearing, do not prune closer than three eyes. If the growth is likely to be too much, rub out the middle eye, leaving the third for fruit, and the first for bearing next year ; at which time cut away all the wood down to this first shoot, which latter must be cut to three eyes, rubbing out the second as before, and so on from year to year. The truth is, it would require several pages to explain this matter fully, but I have no time for it. In the case of the trellis, what garden- ers call cane-pruning is the best. Select as many shoots as are wanted, and cut out all the rest ; these shoots are then shortened into the first good eye ; but if this jhould leave them too long, they must be cut to the Jesired length. I regret that I have not time to explain this fully ; but the principle is, to get rid of last year's bearing-wood, and keep the new wood as near to the body as possible. The grape border must be manuredi APPENDIX 149 spaded, and cultivated with as mucli care as you would bestow on a crop of corn. A summer pruning is also necessary, which consists in thinning out the superflu- ous growrth, and pinching in the laterals. The leaves of the grape-vine must in no case be removed. The best time to prune is in the fall and early winter^ The best grapes for this latitude are the Isabella, Catawba, and Early Black,- or Madeira; the latter only for the garden ; the Charter Oak, Eoyal Muscadine, (a synonyme), and others of that class, are worthless hum- bugs. The Diana is a smaiU, sweet and rather pleasant grape, and desirable for localities where the Isabella will not ripen.* The Clinton and some others which are well spoken of I have had no opportunity of test- ing, and I have seen the fruit of many seedlings, which deserve no further mention, with the exception of a white variety with the Catawba flavor, and ripening first of September. I think this last will prove to be a very good grape. But this letter hag reached a great length, and I must close it, with all its shortcomings. If it con- * I have elsewhere stated, in a report, as the result of further experience, that I consider the Diana valuable for general cultiva- tion ; and since then, the American Pomological Society has put it on its general list. It is certainly a fine grape. The Concord, in regard to which there has been so much controversy, is deserving of a full and fair trial. — January, 1856. 150 APPENDIX. tains anything of use to you for the purposes of your manual, you are at liberty to do what you please with it. Sincerely yours, Peter B. Mead. APPENDIX F. THE FRUIT AND VEGETABLE GABDEN". BY i.N AMATEUB. There are a few accessories of the homestead more important than a good fruit and vegetable garden ; no home is perfect without them. If there is one thing more than another which adds to the comforts of a poor man's cottage, it is a well-kept garden, in its largest sense ; nay, it is a luxury, even to the millionaire. A well-regulated house within, and a well-kept garden without, make up much of the sum of human happi- ness. How few such there are ! The garden is too generally looked upon as something to minister to the mere appetite ; but, when rightly regarded, it exercises a moral and intellectual influence, which gives it a strona; claim to the serious consideration of all who feel any concern in the ultimate destiny of the human race. Horticultural pursuits, above all others, bring into healthy play those powers of body and mind, the mutual exercise of which alone can keep up that just APPENDIX. 151 equilibrium of the physical, intellectual, and moral forces which makes the true man. I will now submit a few practical remarks on what may bfe called the Cottage Vegetable Garden, or rather Fruit and Yegetable Garden ; for, on a limited plot, they ought not to be. separated; There is no good reason why a man with three or four city lots, each 25 by 100 feet, should not indulge the luxury of a few choice fruits, equally with him who owns his acres. In what follows, it is supposed that the lots run north and south, the house being built on the north front, and the flower-garcjgu- separated from the vege- table by a rose-trellis the full width of the lots. The flower-garden and lawn will occupy another article. Let us suppose a man has four lots of ground, two of which are taken up with a house, lawn, flower-gar- den, &c. He will then have a plot 50 by 100 for a fruit and vegetable garden. Now it will not do to use half of this up with walks — a thing quite too common. Beginning at the rose-trellis, lay off a central walk four feet wide, through the length of the garden ; then, immediately behind the rose-trellis, lay off a grape- border ten feet wide, and parallel with this a walk three feet wide, stopping three feet short of each side- fence ; then borders three feet wide next the east and west fence; then, parallel with these, a walk three feet, wide J then a central walk four feet wide, through the , 152 APPENDIX. width of the garden, and a walk three feet wide close to the south fence." This arrangement will make four large central beds, each 40 by 17 feet, besides the bor- ders. The beds and borders should be edged with box, kept closely cut. The whole garden should be trenched two or three feet deep. To make the walks, dig out the soil three feet deep ; fill in with stones about one foot, and cover them with stout brush ; then put.in the soil, and finish with about six inches of coarse sand or gravel, raising the walks a little in the middle. Roll them from time to time till they become settled ; a good coating of salt will help to make them hard, and keep them free from weeds. • "Walks thus made will keep your feet dry, and your beds tolerably well drained — the latter an object which should never be lost sight of, especially where early fruit and vege- tables are desired. There are some matters connected with grading and levelling, which must be determined by the circumstances of each particular case. Lastly, there should be some eighteen inches of good soil, of which sod mould is the very. best. No amateur can hope to have a good garden, pleasantly worked, unless everything is properly prepared from the beginning;- hence these particulars. Now let us S3e what permanent "fixtures" aro wanted. Four feet from the rose-trellis, put in a row of posts, six or seven feet high and eight feet apart, APPENDIX. 153 upon wbich stretch foux stout wires. Plant a grape- vine between each post, and, keep them well pruned, on the cane system. Eschew all charlatans and hum bugs, whether in the shape of men or vines, and among the latter, especially the Charter Oak.- The walk, if made as directed, will keep this border well drained — a matter of much moment, where well-flavored grapes are desired. Two or three loads of gravel, incorpo- rated with the soil, would make it still more congenial to the grape. Between each vine, and some three feet from the box edging, put in a rhubarb plant, and under it a good heap of manure. This is a good arrangement, notwithstanding some may object to it. In the centre of this border, where the wide walk intersects it, a summer-house may be erected. In the border around the east fence, plant .the black- berry, some three or four feet apart ; in the west bor- der, plant the raspberry at about the same distance. It would be well, however, to reserve a portion of the west border for a few plants of sage, parsley, thyme, &c. There now remain the four large beds, the borders of which may be occupied with dwarf fruit trees ; no others should ever be grown in a garden, and by no means plant them in an auger-hole. I would recom- mend chiefly pears; but, for the sake of variety," a couple of plums, apricots, cherries, quinces, &c., may be added. These should be planted in the border of 7* 154: APPENDIX. the large beds, about three feet from the box edging, and some eight feet apart. Between each tree a cur- rant or gooseberry bush may be planted ; these should be. raised from cuttings, grown to a single stalk, and regularly winter-pruned. This mode of planting is good in itself, and leaves all but the border of the large beds for the vegetables, strawberries, &c. One bed may be occupied with strawberries and asparagus, but the latter must be kept three or four feet from the fruit trees. Having disposed of the principal permanent arrange- ments, let us look for a moment at such vegetables as will have to be raised annually. For this purpose we have left three of the large beds. It is taken for granted that a good supply of well-prepared barn-yard manure has been procured, as well as a set of steel garden implements, which latter should always be kept as bright as a new penny. First make up your mind what you will grow, and how much of it. Then spread on a good coating of manure, and spade twelve inches deep. It is surprising to a novice how, much can be grown on a given surface. Beets, carrots, salsify, parsnips, lima beans, and some others, will occupy the ground the whole season. Beets should be sown thick, in drills six inches apart, each alternate row to he used for greens, as well as the thinnings of the others. Between the carrots, &c., radishes may be sown. .APPENDIX. 155 Leauce, radishes, &c., may be sown in the raspberry and blackberry borders. Peas should be sown iii. double drills six inches apart, at intervals of three feet. "Between the peas may be planted beets for greens, radishes, spinach, lettuce, &c., making two drills of each. The peas will come off in time for turnips, late cabbage, brocoli or celery; the latter should be planted in beds, the earth thrown out one spade deep, the celery planted in rows, one foot apart, and the plants from six to ten inches in the rows. Snap beans will be off in time for cabbage, turnips, fall spinach, &c. If beans are wanted in the fall, they may follow onions, where these have been grown from sets. A few cucumbers may be planted in the fruit border. Sugar-corn should be planted in drills three feet apart, the plants six inches in the drills for the sinall early varieties, and about a foot for others. For a succession, plant from early spring till the first week in July, two or more drills at a time, according to the wants of the famil3% Corn map may be planted after some of the crops named above. If one piece of ground is used, a portion of it will give you some early spinach and peas. Radishes may also be planted from time to time along the fruit border, but too much of that will injure the trees. A few egg-plants and peppers may also be planted in the fruit border, but hot imme- diately under the trees. By the exercise of a little 156 APPENDIX. judgment, a variety of things may be made to follow each other in this way; so that no spot of ground need necessarily remain unoccupied for a single day during the whole season. The ground must be kept free from weeds, and well worked at all times. When the weather is dry, use the hoe more frequently than usual, (a narrow, low-pronged rake is best), which will enable the ground to absorb moisture from the atmosphere, of which it always con- tains some, even in the dryest weather.- Frequent stirring of the 'soil is important in another respect, in keeping it open and porous, and enabling it to take up the gases of the atmosphere, which constitute no inconsiderable portion of the food of plants. It will also give an earlier and better crop. Discard the prac- tice of earthing your plants, except for the purpose of blanching. Hilling should not be tolerated, except in soils naturally retentive of moisture ; the true remedy for which consists in underdraining, and not in hilling. The preceding remarks are mostly of a general nature, but a few words may be said here of the time and labor necessary to cultivate and keep in order a garden like that here described. A person familiar with the operations to be performed, and expert in the use of implements, can generally perform the necessary labor (unless he is dronish) without detriment to his daily business ; on the contrary, he will find himself APPENDIX. 157 invigorated for the discharge of ita duties. At all events, he will need but a few days' assistance for the rough work, I know that very much more than this has been done for years, apd will continue to be done. I speak this for the encouragement of those who desire to surround their homes .with these luxuries, but whose means will not permit them to employ a permanent gardener. Much time is lost for want of proper know- ledge. The' best advice I can give the novice is, first. to learn what is to be done, and then learn how to do it, and always do it well. May the day come when even the common laborer shall be blessed with the comforts of a good home, and rejoice " under his own vine and" fruit "treel " THE SMALL FEUIT CULTUEIST. Bl ANDREW S. FULLER. Beautifully Illustrated. We have heretofore had no work especially devoted to small fruits, and certainly no treatises anywliei'e tliiit give the information contained in this. It is to tlie advantage of special works that the autlior can say all that he has to say on any subject, and not be restricted as to space, as he must be in those works that cover the culture of all fruits — great and small. This book covers the whole ground of Propagating Small Fi'uits, their Culture, Varieties, Packing for Market, etc. While very full on the other fruits, the Currants and Raspberries have been more care- fully elaborated than ever before, and in this important part of his book, the author has had the invaluable counsel of Charles Downing. The chapter on gatliering and packing the fruit is a vitluable one, and ill it are figured all the baskets and boxes now in common use. Tlie booli is very finely and thorouglily illustrated, and makes an admirable companion to the Grape Cuiturist, by the same aulliur. CONXENTSi Chap. 1. Chap. II. ClIAP. III. Chap. IV. Chap. V. Chap. VI. BARBBRnV. Strawberry. Raspberry. Blackberry. DwAUF Chehry. Cuurant. Chap. VII. Gooseberry. Chap. VIII. Cornelian Cherry. Chap. IX. Cranberry. Chap. X. Huckleberry. Chap. XL Shbperdia. Chap. XII. Preparation poi. GATHERUtG FkUIT; Sent post-paid. Price $1.50. ORANGE JUDD & CO., 245 Broadway, New-York. DRAINING FOR PROFIT, AXD DRAINIJNG FOR HEALTH. BY GEO. E. WARING, Jb., BSGrSKKB OF THB DRAINAGE OF THE CENTRAL PARK, NEWTORK. "BTXBT lUEPORTXD 0A8B OF FAILVBB IS DBAHTAGE WSICH WB HATB INTBftTZ* OATBD. HAS BUSOLTBS ITSBLF ZSTO IGKOBAITOB, BLUNDJEBlZfQ, BiS A'^XTAQBUEirT, OB BAD BXBCUTIOX.*'— G^iflfiomtf. CONTENTS: Gliapter I.— 1.AND TO BK DRAIKKD AND THE R&ASOVS "WHY. Cbapter n.-BOAV DRAINS ACT, AND HOW THKY AFFKCT the: soil. Chapter IIL-HOIV TO (K> TO 1VORK TO IiAT OVT A SYSTSDI OP DRAINS. Chapter IV.-HOIV TO DIAKS THB DRAINS. Chapter V.— H01V TO TAKE! CARS OF DRAINS AND DRAINED liANDS. Chapter in.-IVHAT DRAININa COSTS. Chapter VII.-'WII.Ii IT FAY? Chapter Vni.-HO'W TO MAKE DRAINING TII.ES. Chapter IX.— THE RECIiAIDIING OF SAXT MARSHES. Chapter X.— MAliARIAIi DISEASES. Chapter XI.-HOVSE AND TOWN DRAINAGE. Sent post-paid. Price $1.50. NEW-TORK: ORANGE JUDD & CO., 245 Broadway. A VALUABLE HEW BOOK. THE GRAPE VINE. BY FREDERICK MOHR^ - DOCTOR or PHILOSOPHY AND MEDICINE. Translated from the German, and accompanied with Hints on the Propagation and General Treatment of American Varieities. This work is mainly devoted to the most elementary matters. It ex- plains the structure ana mode Of growth of the vine so clearly that no intelligent pereon- who read's it need' he in doubt what to do with^his vines. It has been well translated, and a chapter on the propagation of American varieties has been substituted for the original one on multi- plying tl e Buropean grape. As anatomy is the foundation of surgery, so is a knowledge of the structure of the vine to the vine-dresser. Id Licch casus, it is as important to.know when and where to cut and how. CONTENTS: nevelopniciit and Structare of the Orape Vine. The Nude; Tbe Braiicli; Reasons ror Pruning; Priintne* 'JTralnlug on Trellises; Summer Treatment; Plantations. Vines Trained along tbe Garden Walk. Trellises uu iralls; Tree Trellises. Vinos Trained to Trellises; Bronner's jTIetliod. Time Required for Covering a Trellis, manuring the Vine; Age of Vineyard. The Rising Sap in the Vine ; The Grape Disease. Treatment of Vines Injured by Frost. Implements ; Proper Time to Perforin Work on the \ luo. Constituents of the Vine and their Distribution. Propagation of tbe Vine: By liaycrs; By Cuttings; By Grafting; By Inarching; By Seeds. Hybridization. American Varieties — General management; Planting; Pruning; iPinching; Covering in Fall. SENT POST-PAID, PRICE $1. ORAlSIGhE JUDD & Co.. ' 245 Broadway and 41 Park, Row, N. Y. THE AMERIOAK FOR 1868. A. "Year-Book Wanted by everybody. This volume is now ready, and contains much of intorest *,o • every a^cultuiist. Besides the general record of agricultural progress, it has a valuable article on Factory Dairy Practice, By Gakdneb B. Weeks, Esq., Secretary of the American Dairy, men's Association, in which he discusses the reasons for the best practice and the most approved apparatus, buildings, etc., fully il- lustrated, and is equally interesting to the practical dairyman and to the novice. Sewers and Earth-Closets In^thdr relations to AgrieuUnre, by Col. Geo. E. Wakino, Jr. Winter IVlicat, Describing, with engravings, new and valuable varieties by Joseph Hakris and John Johnston ; an article upon Scytlies and Cradles, By John W. Douglas, (fully illustrated ;) also articles on Horse- Breaking and on Bitting Colts, by Sam*!, P. Headlt, Esq., (il- lustrated ;) on Recent Progress in Agricultural Science, by Prof S. W. JoHNsesf ; on Commercial Fertilizers, Veterinary Medicine and Jurisprudence, Progress of Invention Affecting Agriculture, Valuable Tables for Farmers and others, etc. It is intended that the work shall be practical, excellent in the beauty of its illustrations, and in its adaptation to the wants of American Farmers, superior to anything of the kind heretofore published. In its general features it is like the Agricultural Annual for 1867, containing an Almanac and Calendar, and there will be added a list of dealers in Agricultural Implements, Seeds, etc. Sent post- l«id. Price, fancy paper covers, 50 cts. ; cloth, 75 ets. OEANGE JTJDD & CO;, 245 Broadway, New-York. VALUABLE AND BEAUTIFUL WORK. HARRIS' Insects "Injurious to Yegctatioii. BT THE LATE THADDEUS WILLIAM HARRIS, M.D. A New Edition, enlarged and improved, with additions from the author's manuBcripts and original notes. UlnBtrated by engravings drawn from nature under the supervision of PliOrfESSOR A-GASSIZ. Edited by CHAHLES L. FLINT, Secretary of the Massachusetts State Board of Agriculture. C03>TTE3JSrTS. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION. — InsectsDefined— Brain and Nerves— Air-Pipes and Breath- ing-Holes— Heart and Blood— Metamorphoses or Transformations— Classiilcation ; Orders and Groups. CHAPTER II. COLEOPTERA— Beetles— Scai-abTians-Ground-Beetles— Tree-Beetles— Cock- chafers — Flower, Stag, Spring, Timber, Capricorn, Leaf-mining, and Tor- toise Beetles — Cnryaomelians — Cantharides. ^ CHAPTER III. ORTHOPTERA. -Earwigs — Cockroaches- - Soothsayers — Walking-sticks or Spectres— Mole, Field, Climbing, and Wingless Crickets— Grasshoppers — Katydid — Locusts. CHAPTER IV. HEMIPTERA.— Bugs— Squash-Bug— Clinch-Bug— Plant Bugs— Harvest Flies— Tree-Hoppers — Vine-Hoppers — Plant-Lice — ^American Blight— Bark-Lice. CHAPTER V. LEPIDOPTERA. -Caterpillars — Butterflies — Skippers — Hawk-Moths— ^£re- rians or Borin" Caterpillars— Moths — Cut-Worms- Spau-Worms- Leaf- Eollers— Fruit, Bee, Corn, Clothes, and Feather-Winged Moths. CHAPTER VI. HYMENOPTERA —Stingers and Piercers -Saw-Flies and Slugs- Elm, Fir, and Vine Saw-FIy — Hose-Bush and Pear-Tree Slugs — Horn-Tailed Wood- Wasps — Gall-Fliea — Barley Insect and Joint Worm. CHAPTER VII. DIPTERA. — Gnats and Flies— Maggots and their Transformations- Gall- Gnata- Hessian, Wheat, and Kadish Flies— Two-Winged Gall-Fliea. and Fruit-Flies. rtPPENDIX.—Tlie Army Worm. Published in two beautiful editions ; one plain, with steel engravings, Svo, extra cloth, $4 ; the other in extra cloth, beveled boards, red edges, engrav- ings colored with great accuracy, §6. JSent post-paid on receipt of price, ORANGE JU1)T> & CO., 345 Broadway, New- York City [EatabUitaed In 1842.] A G-ood, Cheap, and very Valuable Paper for ^i* Every Man, Woman and Child, IN CITY, VILLAGE and COUNTRY, THE AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST, FOR THE FARM, GARDEN AND HOUSEHOLD, Including a Special Department of Interesting and Instructive Reading for CH9LDREN and YOUTH. . The Agriculturist is a large periodical of ThlrtyiiBO pages, qiiftrto, not octavo, beautifully printed, and filled with plain, practical, reliable, original matter, Includ- ing hundreds ol beautiful and instritctive Kiigravlngs lu every annual volume. , It contains each month a Calendar of Operations to be performed on the Farm, In the OrcUard and Garden, la and around the Dwelling, etc. The thousands of hints and suggestions given In every volnme are prepared hy prac- tical, Intotllgent working men, who know what they talk and write about. The articles are thoroughly edited, and every way reliable. The Ilousoholcl Department Is valuable to every Housekeeper, affording very many useful hints and directions calculated to lighten and facilitate in-door work. The Department for Children and Yonth,,Is prepared with Bpcclal care not only to amuse, but also to Inculcate knowledge and sound moral principles. Terms*— The circulation of the American AgHcultw^iat, (about 150.000) Is so large that it can be fUrnished at the low price of $1.50 a year ; four copies, one year, for |5; ten copies, one year, for $12; twenty or more copies, one year. $1 each: single copies, 15 ceiits each. An extra copy to the one furnisliing a club of ten or twenty. TUl^ IT .A. IkTEA.!?,. ORAN.GE JTJDD & CO., Publishers & Proprietors, NOi 245 Broadway, New- York City, 4C=^ — ■ — =^=3-^ GARDENING FOR PROFIT, In the Market and Family G-arden. Bt Petee Hendbesoit. This is the first work on Market Gardening ever published in ihu country. Its author is well known as a market gardener of eighteen years' successful experience. In this work he has recorded this experience, and given, without reservation, the methods necessary to the profitable culture of the commercial or It is a work for which there has long been a demand, and one which will commend itself, not only to those who grow vegetables for sale, but to the cultivator of the FASEIIY 6ABDEN, . to whom it presents methods quite different from the old ones gen- erally practiced. It is an okiginal and purely American work, and not made up, as books on gardening too often are, by quotations from foreign authors. Every thing is made perfectly plain, and the subject treated in all its details, from the selection of the soil to preparing the producta for market. CONTENTS. Men fitted for the Business of O-ardenins. The Amount of Capital Required, and "Working li'oro^^ per Acre. Profits of Market Gardenins, Iiocation, Situation, and Laying Out. Soils, Drainage, and Preparation. Manures, Implements. Uses and Management of Cold Frames. Formation and Management of Hot-beda. Forcing Fits or Qreen-houses. Seeds and Seed Balsing, How, When, and Where to Sow Seeds. Transplanting, Insects. Packing of Vegetables for Shipping, Preservation of Vegetables in "Winte*. Vegetables, their Varieties and Cultivation. In the last chapter, the most valuable kinds are describeil, and the culture proper to each is given in detail. Sent post-paid, price $1.50. ORANGE JUDD & CO., 245 Broadway, New- York. AMERICAN POMOLOGY. APPLES. By r>oct. JOHN A.. "WA.KDER, PKllSIDSKT OHIO POXOLOOIOAI. eoOIETT! TIOE-PMSIDIHT AMBBIOAH POJIOLOOIOi* 8*0IETT. 393 ir.l.VSXRATI01\S. This volume has about 750 pages, the first 375 of which are de Toted to the discussion of the general subjects of propagation, nur. Bery culture, selection and planting, cultivation of orchards, care of fruit, insects, and the lilse ; the remainder is occupied with descrip- tions of apples. With the richness of material at hand, the trouble was to decide what to leave out. It will be found that while the old and standard varieties are not neglected, the new and promising sorts, especially those of the South and West, have prominence. A list of selections for different localities by eminent orchardists la a valuable portion of the volume, while the Analytical Index ot Catalogue Saisonni, as the French would say, is the most extended American fruit list ever published, and gives evidence of a fearful amount of labor. OOIT TENTS. Chapter I.— IWTRODUCTORY. Cbapler n.— HISTORY OF THK APPI.E. Chapter III FROPAGATIOW. Ends and CuttingB — Grafting— Budding— The ISxaeeij. Chapter TV DIVARFING. Chapter V.— DISKASES. Chapter TI— TKE STTE FOR AN ORCHARD. Chapter VII.— PRXlPARATlOiy OF SOII. FOR AN ORCHARD. Chapter THI SELECTION AND PIiANTING. Chapter IX.— CVIiTURI!, Etc. Chapter X.— PHII.OSOPHY OF PRUNING. Chapter XI THINNING. Chapter XH — RIPENING AND PRESERVING FRITITS. Chapter XIII and XIV.— INSECTS. Chapter XV.— CHARACTERS OF FRUITS AND THEIR VAL.UE— TER9IS USED. Chapter XVI CI.ASSIFICATION. Necessity fop— Basis of— Characters— Shape — Its Hegn- larity-Plavor-Color— Their several Values, etc., Do Bcriptiou of Apples. Chapter XVH.— FRUIT 1,ISTS— CATAL.OGUB AND INDEX OF FRUITS. Sent Post-Paii Price $3,00. ORANGE JUDD & CO., 245 Broadway, New-York, THE ANDEEW S. FULLEE. NEW AND ENUARQED EDITION. THE STANDARD WORK ON THE CULTIVATION OF THE HARDY GRAPE. AS IT NOT ONLY DISCUSSES PRINCIPLES. BUT ILLTJSTHATES PRACTICE. BJTory thing is made perfectly plain, and. its teacli- ings may toe follovjred upon ONE VINE OR A VINEYARD. The following are some of the topics tliat are treated: Growinq New Varietiks prom Seed. Propagation by Single Buds or Ete8. ' Propagating Hooses and their Managemkxt fdllt described. How TO Grow. Cpttings in Open Air, and now to Make Layers. Grafting the Grape — A Simple and Successful Method. Htbbidizing and Crossing — Mode op Operation. Soil and Situation — Planting and Cultivation. PRn.>fiN8, Training, and Trellises — all the Systems Kxplained, Garden Culture — How to Grow Vines in a Door-Yard. Insects, Mildew, Sun-Scald, and other Troubles. Description op the Valuable aM) the Discarded Varieties. Sent post-paid. Price $1.50. Orange Judd