m '^^^'^ BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME EROM^THE -' SAGE ENDOWMENT FUND THE GIFT OF ' Hetirg M. Sage V^,Z^2.i.^M ^\^.iJ I Cornell University Library QE 697. W94I2 1911 The ice age in North America and its bea 3 1924 004 114 058 The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924004114058 THE ICE AGE IN NOBTH AMERICA AND ITS BEARIlSraS UPON THE ANTIQUITY or MAN BY G. FREDERICK WRIGHT, D.D., LL.D., f.g.s.a. Late aseietant on the Pennsylvania and United States Geological Surveys Authorof " Logic of Christian Evidences," "Greenland Ice Fields," " Asiatic Russia," etc. Fifth e(|ItIon with, many new maps and Illustrations, enlarged and rewritten to Incorporate the facta that bring 1 1 up to date, with chapters on Lake Agaaslz and the Probable Cause of Glaclatlon, by Warren Upham, Sc.D., F.G.S.A., late Assistant on the Geological Surveys of New Hampshire, Minnesota, the United States, and Canada. OBERLIN, OHIO BIBLIOTHECA SACRA COMPANY 1911 COPTHIQHTBD 1911 BIBLIOTHECA SACRA CO. TO ELISHA GEAY CHETALIEB D£ LA LESION d'hONNEUR mVENTOR OF THE HARMONIC TELEGRAPH, THE TELEPHONE AND THE TELAUTOGRAPH WHOSE INTELLIGENT INTEREST IN GLACIAL GEOLOGY AND WHOSE GENEROUS APPRECIATION OF MY WORK HATE BEEN A CONSTANT INSPIRATION THIS VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED PREFACE TO THE FIFTH EDITION. The twaaty years wMcfii haVe elapsed since the pufelica- tidn of the first edition have fceeri exceedingly fruitful in glacial investigations, as will be seen fey consulting the bibliog- raphy at the end of this voluftie. Nevertheless, as premised in the preface to the first edition, these later investigations have not seriously affected the main theories adopted twenty years ago; but "p6rtain mainly to the detail's of the subject." In the present revision the fiew material added is especially abundant only upon a few subjects. Many existing glaciers have been dfecovered in the Rocky Mountain system in the tJnited States and Canada — a region which was scarcely touched' by explorers until the close of the last century. Explorations have also greatly extended our knowledge of Alaskan glaciers while the changes in the Muir Glacier have been so enormous as t6' be really startling, fully sustaining the theoretical conclusions ■v^hich I had drawn from my stud- ies of the glacier in 1886. Much new material, also, has aecumtilated concerning the glaciers of Greenland, Central Asia, and the Antarctic Continent. As to the extent of the continental glaciers of the Pleisto- cene period, there has been little additional information since the publication of the first edition. Among the most important additions has been the rectification of the glacial boundary across New Jersey and Pennsylvania, where the "fringe," or "attenuated border," imperfectly apprehended by Lewis and Wright, has been carefully traced by Professor VI PREFACE TO FIFTH EDITION. E. H. Williams from the Atlantic Ocean to Ohio and found to be from twenty to thirty miles south of their terminal moraine. The facts relating to this border, brought out by Professor WiUiams, have a most important bearing upon the discus- sion both of the cause and of the date of the Pleistocene glacial epoch. There has also been a great accumulation of evidence, collected pretty largely by Mr. Frank Leverett ajid the geolo- gists of Iowa, Minnesota, Dakota, and Canada, concerning the episodes of the Pleistocene glacial epoch, leading to the division into the Kansan, Illinoisan, lowan, and Wisconsin periods of advance and retreait. The relative length of time occupied by these episodes is still a most interesting subject of investigation. The question of the date of the Pleistocene glacial epoch is still a subject of hot discussion, but a great accumulation of facts, relating to post-glacial erosion and sedimentation, are rapidly establishing a very moderate glacial chronology. Likewise a great accumulation of facts is limiting the the- ories concerning the cause of glaciation to changes in land elevation and in the direction of oceanic currents. The chap- ters upon the date and the cause of the epoch have been greatly enlarged and rewritten. The final chapters upon the discovery of human relics in deposits connected with the Glacial epoch in North America have also been thoroughly revised and enlarged, to take into consideration the more recent discoveries of facts bearing both for and against man's existence here in glacial times. G. Frederick Wright. Obbrlin, Ohio, December 22, 1910. PREFACE TO FIEST EDITIOIsr. The present treatise is the outcome of special studies upon glacial phenomena begun in the summer of 1874, in the eastern part of Massachusetts, the results of which were published in a communication to the Boston Society of Natural History in December, 1876. These first studies pertained to the origin of the gravel-ridges described in this volume under the name of "kames." Fortunately, in the preparation of that paper, I was favored with an interview with Mr. Clarence King, who then gave me the information referred to in the following pages, concerning the terminal moraine south of N^ew England, which has been so fruitful of suggestion to other investigators as well as to myself. Since that time the subject has never been out of mind, and my summer months have all been devoted, under favorable conditions, to the collection of field notes regarding it, and so it has seemed to others, as well as to myself, appropriate that I should endeavor to bring the facts within the reach of the general public. After having become, during the four following sea- sons, familiar with the glacial phenomena over the larger part of New England, I was invited by Professor Lesley to survey, in company with the late Professor H. Carvill Lewis, the boundary of the glaciated area across Pennsyl- viii PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION. vania (our report constitutes Vol. Z of the Second Geologi- cal Survey of that State). The summers of 1882 and 1883 were spent under the auspices of the Western Reserve His- torical Society of Cleveland, Ohio (whose secretary, Judge C. C. Baldwin, had the sagacity to recognize, at that early time in the investigations, the historical bearing of the work), in continuing the survey across Ohio, Kentucky, and Indiana (see my report to that society, 1884, and an article in the "American Journal of Science," July, 1883). Dur- ing the summers of 1884 and 1885 I was employed, as a member of the United States Geological Survey, in tracing the boundary across Illinois, and in reviewing the field in Ohio and western Pennsylvania. The report of this work has not yet been made public, but permission to use the facts has been generously granted by the director of the sufvey, lifajor J. W. Powell. The summer of 1886 was spent in Washijigton Territory, and upon the Muir Glacier in Alaska. The two following seasons were occupied in further exploration of Ohio, Dakota,, and other portions of the Northwest. Thus I have personally been over a large part of the field containing the wonderful array of facts of which I anj now permitted to write. In the autumn of 1887 I was invited to give a course of lectures upon the Ice Age in North America before the Lowell Institute in Boston, and in the following year be- fore the Peabody Institute in Baltimore. Fo;r the inforfna- tion of the audiences who heard those courses of lectures it is proper to say that the present treatise incorporates all the facts then presented, though in a difierent form. The volume covers, however, a much wider field than the lect- ures, and is mo.re ample in its treatment of all the topics. But it is not to be supposed that a single person can PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION. ix adequately survey so large a field. The writer is but one of many investigators who have been busily engaged for the past fifteen years (to say nothing of what had been previously accomplished) in collecting facts concerning the Glacial period in this country. My endeavor has been to make the present volume a pretty complete digest of all these investigations, and in carrying out that aim I have had the generous assistance of the great array of careful and eminent observers who have turned their attention to the subject. So far as possible I have, by their permission, given their results in their own language, and with due credit. I hereby take occasion to express my obligations for the help which they have, one and all, so courteously rendered. The numerous maps accompanying the text have been compiled from the latest data, as indicated in the abundant foot-notes scattered throughout the volume. These render it unnecessary to make here any more specific acknowl- edgment of authorities. The volume is committed to the public in the belief that it will meet a widely felt want. The accumulation of facts for the past decade has been so rapid, and from so many sources, that few persons have been able to keep themselves informed of the progress made. And so great has this progress been that we may now safely assume that future discussions will pertain mainly to the details of the subject. "We now know, from actual observation, the limits and prominent characteristics of the glaciated area on this continent. The Glacial age of North America is no longer a theory, but a well-defined and established fact. It will become apparent also that, though the title of the book is the " Ice Age in North America," it is really X PREFACE TO FIBST EDITION. a treatise on the whole subject of the Glacial period ; for, with the vast field open for investigation on this continent and the amount of attention recently given to its explo- ration, North America is now by far the most favorable place from which to approaeb the study of ice-action and ice periods. The last chapters of the volume treat of man's relation to the lee age on this continent ; and I need not di^uise the fact that the bearing of the discoveries upon this ques- tion has all along given zest to my investigations. The facts with regard to this subject also are now so far in hand that they can he properly discussed in ai treatise de- signed in part for the general public. While presenting as fully as is necessary the evidence of man's occupancy of the continent during the great Ice age, and while accepting this as aecessitating a considerable extension of man's antiquity as usually estimated, I have not felt called upon in the present discussion to say any- thing about the method of reconciling this fact with the chronology of the human race supposed to be given in the sacred Scriptures ; for I have elsewhere (in my " Studies in Science and Eeligion," W. F. Draper, Andover, 1882, and " Divine Authority of the Bible," Congregational Pub- lication Society, Boston, 1884) said all that it seems at present necessary for me to say upon this poiat. I will only remark here that I see no reason why these ^iews should seriously disturb the religious faith of any believer in the inspiration of the Bible. At all events, it is incum- bent on us to welcome the truth, from whatever source it may come. Gr. Feedeeick Weight. Oberlin, Ohio, April 15, 1889. CONTENTS CHAPTER I. „, •■AGE What is a Glacier? ]__12 The Appearance of Ice deceptive, 1 ; Discovery of Its Real Nature, 2 ; Motion of a Glaeler,2 ;Effectof rrlctlon,3 ; Cause of the Motion, 4 ; Plasticity of Ice, 5 [Rela- tion of Snow to lee, 6 ; Structure of a Glacier, 7 ; Veins, 7 ; Fissures, 8 ;Ice-PlIlars, 10 ; Terminal Moraines, 10 ; Kames, 11 ; Glacial Scratches and Groovlngs, 12. CHAPTER II. Existing Glaciers on the Pacific Coast . . . 13-39 In Southern California, 13 ; In Northern California: Mount Shasta, 15 ; In Oregon, 19 ; In Washington Territory: Mount Tacoma, 19 ; British Columblaand Alaska, 23 ; on the Stlckeen Blver, 25 ; in Taku Inlet: Norrls Glacier, 27 ; In Lynn Canal: Davidson Glacier, 27 ; north of Cross Sound, 29 ; on Mt. St. Ellas, 30 ; In Yakutat Bay, 30 ;north of theAlaskan Peninsula, 36. CHAPTER III. A Month with the Mtjie Glacier . 40r74 Purposes of the Expedition, 40 ; Facilities for Observation, 41 ; Description of Glacier Bay and Its Surroundings, 41 ; Mulr Inlet, 43 ; Dimensions of the Mulr Glacier, 43 ; Various Characteristics, 47 ; Moraines, 49 ; Indirect Evidences of Motion, 50; Formation of Icebergs, 51 ; Subglaclal Streams, 51 ; Direct Measure- ment of Velocity, 52 ; Retreat of the Ice-front, 55 ; Former Extension of the Glacier, 59 ; a Burled Forest, 61 ; Kamesand Kettle-holes, 66 ; Transportation and Waste , by Water, 67 ; Temperature In August, 68 ; Floraof the Vicinity, 69 ; H. F. Reld's Measurements, 71 ; F. E. and C. W. Wright's Observations, 72. CHAPTER IV. Glaciers of Greenland . . 75-102 Extent of Greenland, 75 ; Nordensklold's Expedition, 75 ; Amount of Coast Line already explored, 77 ; Number of First-class Glaciers In Danish Greenland, 78 ; Movementof Ice Inthem, 78 ;Nunataks, 71 ; Former Extension ofthelce, 79 ; Holland's Observations, 80 ; Whymper'a Description, 83 ; Explorations of Kane and Hayes, 86 ; Humboldt Glacier, 92 ; Glaciers on the Eastern Coast of Green- land, 97 ; Nansen's Expedition, 98 ; Erlchsen's Expedition, 99 ; Hoist's Obser- vations on Frederlckshaab Glacier, 100. xi Xii CONTENTS. CHAPTER V. PAGE GiiAciBHs IN Other Parts of the World . . . 104^121 In the Alps, 104 ; In Scandinavia, 106 ; In Spltzbergen, Franz-Josef Land, and Ice- land, 107 ; In Asia, 107 ; In South America, 108 ; Darwin's Account, 109 ; In New Zealand, 112 ; on the Antarctic Continent, 112 ; Icebergs of the Southern Ocean, 115 ; CroU's Inferences from the Size of these Bergs, 118 ; Shaokleton's Expedition to the Antarctic, 120. • CHAPTER VI. Signs of Glaciation 122-133 Introductory Remarks, 122 ; Groovesand Scratches, 123 ; Sir Charles Lyell's Ob- servations In Nova Scotia, 126 ; the Ground Moraine, or "Till," 129 ; Cause of Its being unstratlfied, 130 ; Sifting Power of Water, 131 ; Distribution of Bowl- ders, 132. CHAPTER VII. Boundary of the Glaciated Area in North America 134-193 Confluent Character of the Ice-sheet, 134 ; Progress of Discovery, 134 ; Elements determining the Amount of Glacial Deposition, 135 ; Counteracting Influence of Subglaclal Streams, 136 ; Influences determining the Amount of Marginal De- posits, 137 ; south of New England, 137 ; Interior Marginal Deposits, 139 ; Long Island a Moraine, 140 ; Marginal Deposits across New Jersey, 140 ; Rela- tlonofKettle-holestothe Moraines, 143 ; Marginal Deposits In Eastern Pennsyl- vania, 144 : Western NewYork and Pennsylvania, 149. CHAPTER VII (continued). The Attenuated Border 151-166 Lineof,lS3 ; Lake Williams, 153 {Character of Material In, 154 ; Lake Lesley, 156 ; Lake Allegheny, 153 ; Changes of Land-level, 160 ; Valleys of the Allegheny River, Conewango Creek, and Ohio River, 161. CHAPTER VII (concluded). The Glacial Boundary West of Pennsylvania . 167-193 Marginal Deposits through Ohio, 167 ; Extension of the Ice Into Kentucky, 170 ; Course of the Boundary In Indiana and Illinois, 170 ; Boundary west of the Miss- issippi, 172 ; west of the Rocky Mountains, 176 ; Ancient Glaciers In Southern California, 179; Glacial Boundary north of Puget Sound, 183 ; near the Head- waters of the Yukon, 190; Summary of Facts regarding the Padflo Coast, 190. CHAPTER VIII. Depth of Ice during the Glacial Period . . 194-202 Means of Estimating it, 194 ; Mountain Summits covered in New England, New York, and Pennsylvania, 194 ; Depth estimated from the Distance moved, 199 ; Slope of a Glacier, 201. CONTENTS. xiii CHAPTER IX. PAOE Terminal Moraines 203-225 Indefinlteness of the Term, 203 ; Prominence of the Moraine south of New Eng- land, 20i ; Detalla respecting the Kettle-holes In this Fart of the Moraine, 205 ; Submerged Portions of the Moraine, 206 -, Moraines of the Middle States, 207 ; President Chamberlln on the Moraines west of the Alleghanles, 207 ; Gilbert on the Moraines of the Maumee Valley, 207 ; the Kettle Moraine of Wisconsin, 211 ; Battleofthe GlaclerslnMlnnesotaand Wisconsin, 212 ; Moraines In Dakota,2 14 ; In Central British America, 217 ; Later Moraines In the White Mountains, 221 ; on the Sierra Nevada and Cascade Mountains, 222 ; Moraines of the Wisconsin Episode, 222 ; Bllnolsan Deposits, 223 ; lowan Deposits, 223 ; Kansas Deposits, 221 ; the Aftonlan Episode, 224. CHAPTER X. GLAciAii Erosion and Transportation . . . 226-280 Erosive Action of Ice compared with that of Running Water, 226 ; Chemical Action of Water, 229 ; Danger of exaggerating the Erosive Action of Ice, 230 ; Glacial Erosion least near the Margin, 233 ; Analogy between the Glacial Front and Breakers In the Ocean, 234 ; Transportation of Bowlders on the Surface of a Glacier, 236 ; Details respecting. In Southern New England, 237 ; In Richmond, Mass., 239 ; In New Jersey and Pennsylvania, 241 ;lnOhIo, 242; In Southern In- diana and nilnols, 243 ; In Iowa and Dakota, 243 ; In British America, 244 ; Ele- vation of Bowlders In the Ice, 246 ; Explanation of, 248 ; Erosion of Subgladal Streams, 254 ; Erosion estimated by the Amount of Till, 257 ; Attempts at Direct Measurement of Glacial Erosion near the Delaware Water-Gap, 260 ; affected by Preglaclal Disintegration, 261 ; Evidence of , near Western End of Lake Erie, 262; In the Sierra Nevada. 267 ; Summary, 279. CHAPTER XI. Drumlins 281-297 Definition, 281 ; those In the Vicinity of Boston Enumerated, 281; Mr. Upham's Description, 282 ; Series of, In Rockingham County, N. H., and Essex County, Mass., 284 ; Occurrence of. In the Interior of the Country, 285 ; Theory of their Formation, 287; Irregularities of Glacial Erosion and Deposition, 294. CHAPTER XII. Freolacial Drainage . 298-312 Length of Preglaclal Time, 298 ; extent of Preglaclal Erosion, 299 ; the Trough of the Ohio preglaclal, 300 ; Other Preglaclal Valleys, 302 ; Preglaclal Drainage of the Great Lakes, 304 ; Preglaclal Drainage of the Upper Allegheny River Into Lake Erie, 307. CHAPTER XIII. Drainage op the Glacial Period .... 313-337 Obstruction of Ice-barriers across the Red River of the North, the St. Lawrence, and the Mohawk, 313 ; Closing Floods of the Glacial Period, 314 ; Terraces pro- duced by these Floods In the Trough of the Mississippi; In the Minnesota, 315 ; xiv CONTENTS. FAOa In the Northern Tributaries of the Ohio, 323 ; In the Streams of Northern Pennsyl- vania, 325 ; Material composing the Glacial Terraces, 325 ; such Terraces absent from Streams wholly In the Unglaclated Region, 325 ; Terraces on the Ohio, 327 ; on Beaver Creek, Pa., 328 ; on the Delaware, 289 ; Relation of Pot-holes In Graf- ton, N. H., to Glacial Drainage, 330 ; Similar Phenomena In Lackawanna County, Pa., 331 ; Remarkable Evidence of Abnormal Glacial Drainage In Dakota, 332 ; Marginal Drainage In the Northwest, 334. CHAPTER XIV. Kames 339-354 In Andover, Mass., 339 ; Definitions, 339 ; Gelkle's Description , 339 ; Relations of Kames to Terminal Moraines, 340 ; Origin of, 341 ; Indicate Lines of Temporary Glacial Drainage, 342 ; Lines of, In New England enumerated, 343 ; Questions reepectlng.lnthe Connecticut River Valley,345 ;PossIbleExtentof GlaoIalFloods In thu Valley, 346 ; Relation of Sandy Plains to Kames, 348 ; Existence of Kames foretold, 349 ; Overwash Gravel limited In Amount, 350 ; Abnormal Relation of Kames to the Slope, 351 { Summary, 353. CHAPTER XV. Glacial Dams, Lakes, and Waterfalls 355-406 Rock Basins eroded by Glaciers, 355 ; Theory of the Great Lakes, 356 ; Two Classes of Glacial Dams, 350 ; Kettle-hioles, 359 ; Relation of, to Peat-bogs and to Terminal Moraines, 360 ; Lakes formed by Permanent Obstruction of Preglaclal Channels, 362 ; the Formation of Waterfalls, 362 ; Temporary Lakes formed by Ice Barriers, 363 ; Supposed Glacial Dam In the Ohio, at Cincinnati, 366 ; Evi- dence that the Ice crossed the Ohio, 367 ; Consequences of such an Obstruction, 368 ; History of Its Discovery, 370 ; Theory discussed by the American Associa- tion for the Advancement of Science, 371 ; Theory confirmed by the Absence of Terraces In Brush Creek, Ohio, 372 ; by the Terrace at Bellevue, Pa., 375 ; Diffi- culty of Other Explanations, 376 ; the Occurrence of Vegetable Matter in the Terraces of theMonongahela support the Theory, 377 ; Teazes Valley, W. Va., ex- plained by the Theory, 379 ; Various Other Phenomena explained In a Similar Manner, 382 ; Objections considered, 383 ; Claypole on, 386 ; Glacial Dam In the Monongahela, 39} ; the Lake Ridges of Ohio and New York, 395 ; Glacial Dam acrossthe Mohawk and the St. Lawrence, 398 ; Glacial Lake In the Red River Region of the North : Lake Agasslz , 401 . CHAPTER XVI. The Loess . . . . 407-421 Extent of the Deposit In China and North America, 407 ; Rlclithofen's Theory of Deposition by Wind, 408 ; Difficulties of the Theory, 410 ; Characteristics of, 412 ; Changes of Level Necessary, 413 ; Probable Connection with Glacial Floods, 415 ; Supplementary Theories, 417. CHAPTER XVII. Plight of Plants and Animals dtjbing the Glacial Period 422-444 Peculiar Distribution of Plants In the North Temperate Zone, 422 ; Professor Asa Gray's Solution of the Problem, 424 ; more Detailed Statement by Professor Gray, 425 ; Comparison of the Pacific with the Atlantic Forests, 426 ; Oomparlson CONTENTS. XV PAOB of both with those of Japan, North China, and Europe, 427 ; Number of Pre- glaclal Species now found In the Temperate Zone, 430 ; our Treea originated In the High Latitudes, 432 ; the Vicissitudes to which they have been subjected since the Approach of the Glacial Period, 433 ; Open Lines of Emigration In America, 434 ; Peculiar Influences upon the Pacific Coast, 435 ; Extinction of Animals In America by the Glacial Period, 436 ; Alpine Butterflies upon the White Moun- tains, 438 ; List of Plants common to the Okhotsk-Kamchatkan Region and North America, 441. CHAPTER XVIII. Europe during the Glacial Period . . . 445-459 Glaciated Area In Great Britain, 445; on the Continent, 447; Investigations of Professor Lewis, 448; Summary of Conditions In Great Britain by Dr. Harmer, 454; Investigations of Professor Salisbury, 4S6. CHAPTER XIX. The Cause or the Glacial Period . 461-494 Recent Astronomical Speculations, 461 ; the Combination of Conditions necessary to produce a Glacier, 461 ; Theories to account for the Glacial Period, 463 ; Decrease of the Original Heat of the Planet, 463 ; Shifting of the Earth's Axis of Rotation, 463; Theory of Progressive Deslcatlon, 464; Depletion of Carbon Dioxide In the Atmosphere, 464; Different Temperatures of Space, 465; Mr. Croll'a Theory: the ElUptlcIty of the Earth's Orbit and the Precession of the Equinoxes, 466; Possible Effect of these upon the Climate, 467; Cause of the Gulf Stream, 469; Causes con- trolling the Distribution of the Heat from the Sun, 477; WoelkoS's Objections to Croll's Theory, 479; Supposed Evidence of Former Glacial Periods, 483; Carbon- iferous and Cambrian Glacial Periods now established, 490. CHAPTER XIX (continued). The Cause of the Glacial Period .... 495-531 Effect of Changes In the Distribution of Land and Water, 495 ; Theory of Changes of Level, 496; Supplementary Notes by Warren Upham, 520; produced by the Accumulation of Snow over Definite Centers, 525; Field for Mathematical Inves- tigation, .528; Summary, 529. CHAPTER XX. The Date of the Glacial Period .... 532-615 Uncertainty of Astronomical Calculations, 532; Detect in Lyell's Theory of Unl- f ormltarlanism , 533 ; Post-glacial Erosion below Niagara Falls, 536 ; below Falls of St. Anthony" 552; in Ohio, 560; Freshness of the Glaciated Surfaces, 568; Post-gla- cial Erosion In Minnesota, 571 ; about Lake Michigan, 571 ; Post-glacial Deposition In Kettle-holes, 572 ; the Question of Two or More Post-tertiary Glacial Epochs, 575 ; Greater Oxidization of Material near the Glacial Boundary, 579; Freshness of In- terglaclal Forest^beds, 592; Growth of Peat, 594; Extent of Forest-beds, 603; Former Extension of Lakes Bonneville and Lahontan, 607; Recentness of these Lakes, 610; Length of the Glacial Period, 613; Summary, 614. XVI CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXI. PAQB Man and the Glacial Period .... 616-668 Prominence given by Lyell to the Subject, 616; Artificiality of the Implements, 617; Professor Hayneson, 619; Genuineness of, 622; Discoveries of Boucher de Perthes In France, 621; of other Investigators In England, 634; of Dr. Abbott In New Jersey, 625; Nature of the Gravel at Trenton, 630; Mode of Deposition, 634; Series of Events In the Delaware Valley, 639; Discoveries in Ohio foretold, 640; Discoveries by Dr. Metz, In Ohio, 642 ; Deposit at Madlsonvllle, Ohio, described, 644; Discovery by Mr. Mills at Newcomerstown, Ohio, 645; Discovery by Mr. Huston at Brilliant, Ohio, 648; Cresson's Discoveries at Medora, Ind., 649; Wln- chell's Discoveries In Morrison County, Minn., 653; Miss Babbitt's Discoveries at Little Falls, Minn., 654; Upham's Discussion of the Deposits In Minne- sota, 654. CHAPTER XXII. Man and the Glacial Period (Continued) . . 669-676 Cresson's Discoveries at Claymont, Del., 669; Prehistoric Development In the Delaware Valley, 674. CHAPTER XXIII. Man in the Missouri Valley . . 678-686 Discovery at Lansing, Kan., 678; Natureof the Deposit at Lansing, Kan., 679; Nebraska Loess-Man, 683; Nature of Deposit in which found, 683; Discovery at St. Joseph, Mo., 685. CHAPTER XXIV. Man and the Lava Beds op the Pacific Coast . 687-709 Whitney's Discoveries in California, 688; Le Conte on the Quaternary Deposits of California, 689; Whitney's Evidence In Detail, 692; Stone Mortars from under Table Mountain, 694; Criticism of Whitney, 697; the Nampa Image, 701; Conclu- sion, 706. BIBLIOGRAPHY 711-741 INDEX 743-763 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Front of Mulr Glacier, Alaska, from the southeast comer, looking across the sur- face and up one of the tributaries . . . . Frontispiece. FXO. PAGE 1. Differential motion of Ice . . 2 2, 3. Differential motion of ice S 4. Plasticity of Ice 6 5. Fissures and seracs 8 6. 7. Marginal fissures and veins . 8 8. Veined structure at the junction of two branches 9 9. Mode of formation of Ice-plllars , 10 10. Moraines of the Mer de Glace . . . 10 11. Glacial scorings . . 12 12. West end of Samovar Glacier, Alaska . . 14 13. Mount Shasta, California. (Russell.) ... . . .17 14. Mount Tacoma, Washington State, looking westward. (Charles S. Fee.-) 20 15. Mount Tacoma, Washington State, looking eastward. (Charles S. Fee.) 21 16. Map of southeastern Alaska . ... 24 17. Norris Glacier, Alaska. (Partridge.) . . 26 18. Glacier Station, British Columbia. (Canadian Pacific Railroad.) 28 19. Davidson Glacier, Alaska ... . . 29 20. Map showing hypothetical former extension of glaciers. [U. S. Geological Survey.) . . 31 21. Map of Alaska .... 34 22. Sketch map of Glacier Bay and Mulr Glacier, (H. F. Reid.) 44 23. Looking across front of Mulr Glacier, Alaska . 46 24. Map of Mulr Inlet, Alaska . . . 53 25. Surface of Mulr Glacier. (Partridge.) 56 26. Formation of kettle-hole. Alaska. (Partridge.) . 58 27. Burled forest on the Mulr Glacier ... 62 28. Buried forest. Glacier Bay, Alaska 65 29. Mulr Glacier from an elevation of 1,800 feet 65 30. Ice-pillars. (Russell.) . 70i 31. Map of Greenland . . 76. 32. Map of Frederlckshaab Glacier, Greenland. (Dana.) . . 81i 33. Ikamiut Fjord, Greenland, showing hanging glaciers . 83: 34. Sea margin of Cornell Glacier, Greenland . ... 103 35. Glacier in North Greenland, showing upper strata of ice rolling over like breakers 105 36. Morteratsch Glacier, Switzerland 105 37. Svartisen Glacier, Norway. (Waroer.) ... . . 106 38. Iceberg . ... . . 116 39. Floating berg . . . .119 40. Scratched stone from till of Boston. Mass. . . . . 12S xvii XVlll LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 41. 42. 43. 44. 45. 46. 47. 48. 49. 50. 51. 52. S3. 54. 55. 56. 57. 58. 59. 60. 61. '62. 63. 64. 65. 66. 67. 68. 69. 70. 71. 72. 73. '74. 76. '76. 77. 78. 79. 80. 81. 82. 83. 84. 85. 86. 87. Glacial 3trl8D, Amherst, Ohio. (Chamberlln.) Cut in till, Hamilton, Ohio . Cut In till, Darrtown, Ohio .... Glacial map of southern New England 121 12j 131 138 Glacial map of New Jersey 141 Glacial map of Pennsylvania and southern New York Glaciated pebble, Pennsylvania . . . ... The same, side view .... Attenuated border, eastern Pennsylvania, (Williams.). . Lake Lesley, Pennsylvania Advance of Wisconsin Ice over the Kansan border near the apex of New York Lake Allegheny ... ... . . Map of the upper Allegheny Valley, Pa. . . . Sand pit at Warren, Pa. . . . ■ Bar at Warren, Pa. Glacial map of Ohio Glacial map of southern Indiana Glacial map of southern Illinois . . . . Typical section of till in Seattle, Washington State Section of modified drift at Point Wilson, Washington State Glacial groovlngs, Victoria, British Columbia Glacial map of North America ... Depth of ice and erosion In eastern Pennsylvania. (Lesley.) Map of kettle-holes near Wood's Holl, Mass. Map of moralnal deposits, western New York. (IT. S. Geological Survey. View of kettle-moraine. Eagle, Wis. (Chamberlln.) Map of the MlBuourl coteau. (Todd.) Glacial map of central British America. (Dawson.) The Missouri coteau. (Dawson.) . . . . Canon of the Colorado. (Newberry.) Embossed floor of an ancient glacier, Colorado. (Hayden.) Glacial bowlder, Gllsum, N. H. (Hitchcock.) Mobegan Kock, Montville, Conn. . Glaciated pebble, Indiana Reverse side of the same Ideal section showing distribution of till .... Ideal section showing sub-a€rlal disintegration. (Chamberlln.) Glacial grooves. South Bass Island, Lake Erie TortUcua glacial grooves, Kelley's Island, Lake Erie. (Chamberlln.) Section of glacial furrows, Kelley's Island, Lake Erie Full view of the same. (Younglove.) . . . . Glacial furrows, South Bass Island, Lake Erie , Glacial furrows, Gibraltar Island, Lake Erie Cross striae. Middle Bass Island, Lake Erie lowan bowlders. (Calvin.) ... Map of drumllns near Boston. (Davis.) . ... View of Corey's Hill, Brookllne, Mass. A typical drumlln. (Davis.) Outline of druralins In Boston Harbor. (Davis.) Map of drumllns in northeastern Massachusetts. (Davis.) Outline of drumllns, central New York. (Davis.) .... Drumllns in Wisconsin. (Chamberlln.) . . . . Drumllns in Goffetown, N. H. (Hltohcock.) Drumllns in Ireland. (Klnnehan and Close.) Section of the valley of the Cuyahoga River. (Claypole.) Cross-section showing old and new channels of the Mlsalaslppi River. (Iowa GeologlcalSurvey.) 145 146 147 152 157 157 159 165 167 167 168 171 173 181 182 184 191 196 205 206 210 216 218 219 226 227 236 238 252 253 257 261 263 264 267 268 270 272 275 280 281 232 283 284 285 286 237 291 304 310 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. xix 96. Drainage map of southeastern Iowa. (Leverett.) . . 318 97. Cross-section of the Osage trough at Tuscumbla, Mo. . 318 98. Map showing glaciated and unglaclated portions of Missouri . 322 99. Glacial terrace, Granville, Ohio . .323 100. Map of South Dakota showing the channel of the Missouri River . 335 101. Maps of kames in eastern Masschusetts . 338 102. Section of kame, Dover, N. H. (Upham.) . . 340 103. Sections of kame, Bennington Station, N. H. . . 341 104. Map of the kames of Maine. (Stone.). . 344 105. Section of burled kame, Hanover, N. H. (Upham.) . 345 106. Section of kame, Hanover, N. H. (Upham.) . 346 107. Buried kame, Stroudsburg, Pa. (Lewis and Wright.) .348 108. Canadian bowlder, Boone county, Ky. 368 109. Map showing the effect of the glacial dam at Cincinnati. (Claypole.) 369 110. Map of Paint Creek and Beech Flats, Ohio . • " 373 ill. Section of a deposit, Teazes Valley, W. Va. . . . 380 112. Split Rock, Boone county, Ky. ... 385 112a. Glacial map of Lake Cuyahoga. (Claypole.) . . 388 113. Section of the lake ridges near Sandusky, Ohio . . . 390 114. Map showing glacial lakelets In northern Ohio. (Claypole.) . . 396 115. Lake Whittlesey. (Leverett.) . . . . .399 116. Lake Warren. (Leverett.) . . . .399 117. Nlpisslng Great Lakes and Champlaln Sea . . . 399 118. Map of glacial lake, Erie-Ontario. (Claypole.) . 400 119. Stratified loess, Nebraska. (Chamberlln.) ^11 120. Gulley In the loess, Helena, Ark. (Crlder.) . 421 121. Polarprojeotlons . . ... 423 122. Map showing glaciated areas in North America and Europe facing 445 123. Glacial map of Europe . 456 124. Contorted drift of the Cromer ridge . 458 124a. Present and past glaciatlon of the Alps. (Leverett.) . . 460 125. Diagram showing eccentricity of the earth's orbit 466 126. Map showing Atlantic Ocean currents . . . 470 127. Map of July Isobars and prevailing winds . 471 128. Map of January Isobars and prevailing winds . 474 129. Glaciated pebble. (Coleman.) 493 130. Glaciated Pebble. (Coleman.) . 493 131. Glaciated Pleistocene siurface. (Coleman.) . 493 132. Bird's eye view of Niagara River. (Pohlman.) . . 536 133. Section of strata along the Niagara gorge . . .537 134. Map of the Niagara River below the falls . . . 538 135. Map showing recession of Hoiseshoe Falls since 1842 . . . 540 136. Exposure of Niagara shale In Niagara gorge. (Dutton.) . . 544 137. Diagram of mouth of Niagara gorge at Lewlston ... 544 138. Photograph looking northwest towards St. Davids . . 546 139. Section showing enlargement of Niagara gorge on east side at Its mouth 546 140. Hypothetic hydrography of the Great Lakes after the melting of the glacier from the St. Lawrence Valley . . .547 141. Sections showing the actual rate of erosion along the sides of the Niagara gorge . ..... . ... 551 142. Map of Mississippi River from Fort SnelUng to Minneapolis . . . .555 143. Ideal view of an unglaclated country. (Chamberlln.) 562 144. Ideal view of glaciated country. (Chamberlln.) . . . .563 145. Meanderlngs of Plum Creek through 6,000 feet of its trough . . . .564 146. Cross section of the new course of Plum Creek . . .... 564 147. Section of kettle-hole, Andover, Mass 572 XX LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS, FIG. PAGE 148. Perpendicular section of till containing wood, Oxford, Ohio 57T 149. Part of Atlanta, Mo., topographic sheet . 589 150. Part of Oelweln, la., topographic sheet . • 589 151. Section of till overlying peat, Germantown, Ohio . • 593 152. Section of kettle-hole, Freehold, Pa. . . • 59S 153. Section In till containing wood, Darrtown, Butler county, Ohio . 599 154. Forest lately disturbed by an advancing Alaskan glacier.- (Gilbert.) 606 155. Map of the ancient lakes Bonneville and Lahontan. (Le Conte.) 608 156. Bowlder bed at Pocatello, Idaho • 615 157. Collection of palaeolithic implements 616 158. Reverse side of the same . 617 159. ArglUlte implemenc, Trenton, N. J. (10,985.) (Putnam.) . 626 160. Side view of the same. (Putnam.) ... 627 161. ArgUlIte implement, Trenton, N. J. (11,286.) (Putnam.) . 628 162. Black chert implement, Trenton. N. J. (10,986.) (Putnam.) 629 163. Section of Trenton gravel, N. J. (Abbott.) . . 631 164. Gravel deposit at Trenton, N. J., where human femur was found. (Records of the Past.) . . ... 632 165. Ideal section on the Delaware River Valley, Trenton, N. J. (Abbott.) . ,633 166. Black chert implement, Madlsonville, Ohio. (40,970.) (Putnam.) . 642 167. Map showing glacial boundary, channels, and terraces near Cincinnati 643 168. Palseoliths from Newcomerstown and Amiens 645 169. Edge view of the same . . .647 170. Face view of implement from Brilliant, Ohio 64S 171*. Face view of same 64S 172. Diagonal view of same 648 173. Section of the trough of the Ohio at Brilliant 649 174. Gray flint Implement, Medora, Ind. (46,145.) (Putnam.) 650 175. Side view of the same. (Putnam.) 651 176. Section of gravel at Medora, Ind. 652 177. Chert implements, Morrison county, Minn. (Winchell.) 653 178. Quartz Implement, Little Falls, Minn. (31,323.) (Putnam.) 657 179. Quartz Implement, Little Falls, Mini. (31,316.) (Putnam.) 658 180. Ideal section. Little Falls, Minn. (Upham.) 660 181. Map of moraines in Minnesota. (Upham.) . . 662 182. Accumulating delta plain In front of Malasplna Glacier. (Russell.) . 667 183. Baltimore and Ohio Railroad cut, Claymont, Del. (Cresson.) 670 184. Nearer view of the same. (Cresson.) 672 185. Argllllte Implements from the preceding cut. (45,726.) (Putnam.) . 674 186. View showing Mr. Concannon's house and relation of the bluff to present flood plain of the Missouri. (Records of the Past.) . 677 187. Geology of the Concannon Farm . 67& 188. Entrance to tunnel In which Lansing skelton was found. (Records of the Past.) . . .680 189. Front view of skull and femur bones of Lansing skeleton. (Records of the Past,) . .... . . 681 190. Side view of same. (Records of the Past.) . 681 191. Section of Long's Hill, Neb. (Records of the Past.) ... 684 192. Implement from Dag Hill. (Owen.) 193. Lava streams cut through by rivers in California. (Le Conte.) 194. Section across Table Mountain, Cal. (Le Conte.) . . . ... 689 195. McTarnahan mortar from under Table Mountain 697 196. Nampa figurine and map of the Snake River Valley 703 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. XXI Map showing the glacial geology o£ the United States and southern Canada . between 134 and 135 Map showing the preglaclal drainage of the Great Lakes ' between 300 and 301 Map of the glacial Lake Agasslz facing 404 LIST OF PLATES. PLATE I. II. III. IV. V. VI. VII. VIII. IX PAGE facing 13 Sperry Glacier, Montana. (Sperry.) .... Gelkie Glacier and Hanging Glacier, British Columbia. (Canadian Topographical Survey.) . » . . facing 18 View of lUeciUewaet and Asulkan Glaciers, British Columbia. (Wheeler.) . . facing 25 Forest on top of front of Malasplna Glacier, Alaska. (Russell. ) facing 33 Mulr Glacier In 1909 . between 74 and 75 North outcrop of Mammoth Bed overlaid by Kansan till, Morea, Fa. (Williams.) facing 154 Topography of deep loess two miles south of margin of lowan drift, northwest ol Iowa City, Iowa. (Todd.) . . facing 227 Stream of water along the margin of Malasplna Glacier. (Russell.) facing 320 Longitudinal kames near Hingham, Mass. (Bouv6.) " . . facing 340 THE ICE AGE IN NORTH AMERICA. CHAPTER I. "WHAT IS A GLACIEE' To the ordinary man of science, water is a mineral and ice a rock ; but to the glacialist both are fluids. The appar- ent solidity of ice is an illusion due to the dullness of our senses. The reason why its viscous or semi-fluid character remained unsuspected until a comparatively recent period is due to -the fact that the ordinary movement of accessible glaciers was so slow that we could not by observation readily note their rate of progress. The difference between water and other substances is most noticeable in the phenomena connected with solidifi- cation and fusing. Lead melts at 612° Fahr. above zero ; sulphur, at 226° ; water, at 32° ; while mercury becomes liquid at 39° below zero, and some other substances at even lower temperatures. Thus, with reference to its fusing- point, water appears toward the middle of the scale. If, like the fabled salamander, man were able to endure intense degrees of heat, he might, very likely, sustain relations to iron similar to those he now sustains to water. He might then bathe with pleasure in a molten flood, and venture on the thin crust of a glowing mass of metal. The suddenness with which water passes from the solid to the liquid state, and the amount of heat absorbed in the process of fusion, involve many important consequences. Down to the freezing-point water may be made to part with its heat by gradual stages, but in the act of freezing it sud- 2 THE IGE AOE IN NORTH AMERICA. denly gives out an enormous amount of heat ; on the con- trary, when ice melts, a corresponding amount of heat is absorbed in accomplishing the result. To melt a cubic foot of ice requires as much heat as to raise a cubic foot of water 80° C. or 1M° Fahr. For our knowledge of the nature of the movements tak- ing place in glaciers, we are largely indebted to the investi- gations of Louis Agassiz and Professor Forbes between the years 1840 and 1842, and later to more detailed investigations of Professor Tyndall and other physicists. The mode of measurement with all these investigators was essentially the same. Stakes were driven across a glacier in a line at right angles to the direction of the movement ; and, by means of a theodohte, accurate notations were taken, from hour to hour and day to day, of any changes in the relative position of the points where the stakes were driven. The uniform re- sult of these observations was that the line of stakes began immediately to curve slowly down near the middle, showing that the motion on the surface was greater near the middle than on the sides. This curve continued to increase as long as the stakes remained standing. Professor Tyndall's observations show also that the most rapid line of motion Fig. 1.— The letters o, 6, ■ , , . c, d, «,/, g, represent ou the surfacB of a glacier IS not exactly stakes driven across the " *' snrface of a glacier, at m the middle : but that, wherever there right angles to its Ime ^ ' ^ ' of motion ; a', b', d jg a bend in the glacial current, the more » I ^ . / , (7 ' represent ~ ' subsequen't st^'e " * rapid movement is uniformly on the con- vex side of the channel, so that the curve of the line of most rapid motion is more tortuous than that of the main channel. This conforms to the facts concerning the movement of water in a crooked river-bed, and illustrates again the analogy between the movement of ice and that of water. The most rapid motion observed by Tyndall, in the sum- mer time, in the center of one of the largest of the Alpine « Z c iC a f 3 o — o 0-.. o — (y-.-e— -o -o.... -o— <»—■ o--" WffAT IS A GLACIER f 3 glaciers, was thirty-seven inches per day. Near the sides of the glacier, however, the movement was reduced to two or three inches. The rate of motion during the winter was only about one half that during the summer. A further resemblance of the motion of a glacier to that of a river appears in the fact that the ice near the top moves faster than that near the bottom. At a point in the Mer de Gluce where the side of the gla- cier is exposed, presenting a wall of ice about one hundred and fifty feet in height, Professor Tyndall drove three stakes ; one at the summit of the ice, another thirty-five feet from the bottom, and another four feet from the bottom. Upon examination of them, at the end of twenty-four hours, it appeared that, while the top stake had moved forward six inches, the middle one had moved but four and a half inches, and the bottom stake but two and two thirds of an inch. In all these experiments the influence of friction is clearly visible. The ice of the glacier is retarded by the friction of the sides and bottom of the channel through which it moves, so that the most rapid motion is upon the surface, near the middle, the part farthest removed from this retarding influ- ence. A little attention to this last principle will prepare the mind for crediting the observations which more recently have been reported from the large glaciers in Greenland and Alaska, showing a motion fifteen or twenty times that of the Alpine glaciers. As the cross-section of a glacier is in- Fig. 2.— The continu- ous lines define the valley occupied by the glacier. The dottea line with the arrow - heads indi- cates the line of most rapid motion in the ice, showing its more sinuous course. Fig. 3. — a, b, c, are stakes driven in the vertical wall of the side of a glacier ; a', b', c", are the points occupied at a subsequent date. 4 THE ICE AGE IN NORTH AMERICA. creased, the relative influence of friction in retarding the motion is rapidly diminished. The friction on the sides of a glacier two miles wide is no greater than that upon one a quarter of a mile in width, though the cross-section is eight times as large. A cross-section of the Mer de Glace at Les Moulins is estimated to be one hundred and ninety thousand square yards ; whereas a cross-section of the Muir Glacier, in Alaska, a mile above its mouth, is upward of one million square yards. Though observation shows that ice actually moves as if it were a fluid, the scientific imagination is tasked to the litmost to conceive how such motion can be consistent with other manifest qualities of the material ; for in many conditions ice seems as brittle as glass and as inelastic as granite. The mystery is probably solved, so far as such questions are ever solved, by attention to the facts already referred to concern- ing the behavior of ice at its melting-point. When ice passes into water, an immense amount of heat is absorbed in the process, which yet does not produce any effect upon the thermometer. If a hole be bored in the surface of a melting glacier, and a thermometer inserted, it will stand at 32° Fahr. If the same thermometer be inserted in the subglacial stream issuing from the ice front, it will stand at the same point. Yet the absolute difference between the heat contained in the particles of ice, and that contained in the particles. of water, is 144° Fahr.^so much heat being occupied in keep- ing the substance in a liquid form. Ice is also transparent to the rays of heat as it is to the rays of light. ' Scoresby amused himiself, ■ in the arctic latitudes, by .making lenses of ice with which to concentrate the sun's rays and set com. bustible substances on fire. The fusing-point of ice is also modified by pressure. Under pressure the freezing-point of water may be lowered two or three degrees ; but upon the removal of the pressure, the water wiU instantly become solid. This has been demon- strated in varioiis ways. M. Boussingault, for example, filled a hollow steel cylinder with water, having a bullet loose with- WHAT IS A OLAGIERf g in it, and plugged the aperture up. He then subjected the cylinder to intense cold till the whole was two or three de- grees below the freezing-point of water. But that the water remained liquid was evident from the fact that, upon shaking the cylinder, the bullet inside rattled about as at higher tem- peratures; while, upon removing the plug so as to relieve the pressure, the whole was instantly converted into solid ice. Yarious similar experiments have been made in which, upon removal of the plug, the water ejected from the aperture by the expansive power of the cooling water within the cylinder immediately freezes, and forms a projecting column of ice several inches in length. It was at first thought that this projecting column illustrated the plasticity of ice ; but it is now pretty certain that it illustrates, rather, the curious effect of pressure upon the freezing-point of water. The capacity of water at the freezing-point to transform itself, under varying degrees of pressure, from the solid to the liquid state, and vice versa, is illustrated by another ex- periment, ascribed by Professor Tyndall to Mr. Bottomley. A' copper wire was looped over a bar of ice about four inches square, and a weight of twelve or thirteen pounds was sus- pended from it. The pressure under the wire caused the ice in immediate contact with it to melt ; but, as the resulting water escaped around the wire, and was relieved from press- ure, it immediately froze, and cemented together again the walls of ice above the wire. In half an hour the wire had cut completely through the bar of ice, and yet the whole breach above it was repaired, and the bar was intact. This capacity of fragments of ice, when near the melting- point, to freeze together when their faces are joined, can be readily observed in a variety of experiments. When two pieces of ice in a basin of warm water are brought together they will immediately adhere. If a cake of ice whose tem- perature is near the melting-point be placed in a mold and subjected to pressure, the first result is to break it into pieces ; but, on continuing the pressure, the particles reunite and freeze together into a shape corresponding to that of the THE lOE AGE IN NORTH AMERICA. mold. This capacity of ice, when near the melting-point, to undergo disintegration, and then to become suddenly re- T'^^^ 1%JW Pig. 4. -A, B, C, molds ; a, a, e, original forms of the ice ; S, d, f, the forms into which they were molded. congealed, is probably that by which it simulates in its mo- tion the properties of ordinary fluids, while at the same time retaining other properties connecting it with the most brittle of substances. It is thought, by Mr. Croll and others, that when heat passes through a stratum of ice, as it is known to do, it involves a process of transference from one particle of ice to another, in which there are successive melting and freezing of the particles in the progress of the heat, and that finally the mole- cule of ice upon the opposite side, in becoming recongealefl, delivers up the unit of heat which had entered the stratum from the other side. But, whatever be the explanation of the process, the facts remain that ice behaves in many re- spects like a fluid, and, on application of pressure, slowly ad- justs itself to its bed or mold in obedience to the force ap- plied, and, if time enough is given, moves wherever a fluid would find its way. Ice is plastic under pressure and brittle under tension. Snow is one form of ice, and, as every school-boy who makes a snow-ball knows, can by a moderate degree of press- ure be made into compact ice. The reason why snow is white, and ice is blue, is that snow is pulverized, while in ice the particles are brought into closer contact, and the inclosed air is expelled, so that the real color of the substance WHAT IS A OLACIERf 7- is brought out. TLe powder of almost any substance differs in color from the compact mass. Glacial ice is compressed snow, and originates wherever the snow-fall is largely in ex- cess of the melting power of the sun and warm currents of air. Any one can observe how much more compact old snow is than new, and how, under pressure, the lower strata in a snow-bank become in a single season almost like ice. Hence it is easy to see what must be the result where the annual snow-fall is never wholly melted away. In such regions the ice would accumulate without limit, were it not for its semi- fluid character, which permits it to flow off, in lines of least resistance, to lower levels and toward warmer climes. In structure glacial ice is characterized by both vems and fissures — two phenomena, which are produced by opposite causes — the first by pressure, and the second by tension. Glacial ice ordinarily presents a vemed structure. Instead of being homogeneous, it consists of alternate bands of light- colored and blue ice. These bands do not, however, lie in a horizontal position, but are often vertical. Sometimes they run parallel with the movement of the glacier, and sometimes at right angles to the motion ; while, at other times, they are arranged at an angle of forty-five degrees, pointing down the line of motion. From close examination it appears that the veins are always at right angles to the line of greatest pressure. For example, where two branches of a glacier join, and press together from the sides, longitudinal veins are produced below the point of junction. And again, where ice has de- scended a declivity, and is advancing upon a less inclined plane, the increased pressure necessary to push the mass along produces bands at right angles to the line of motion ; thus demonstrating the connection of veins with pressure. The theory is, that the blue veins in the ice are those from which pressure has expelled the particles of air, thus making it more compact, and giving it its blue color. As already re- marked, snow is white because of the abundant particles of air inclosed within it. Under pressure it can be transformed into blue ice, corresponding to the blue veins alluded to. 4 THE IGE AGE IN NORTH AMESICA. An active glacier is also characterized \>j fissures. When- ever the ice-stream reaches a point where its slope is increased even by a very small amount (a change in inclination of two degrees being sufficient), the ice instead of moving in a con- tinuous stream, forms crevasses across the current, which gradually enlarge at the top, until they present a series of long chasms, very difficult for the explorer to traverse. Where there is considerable irregularity in the bottom, and the increased slops extends for some distance, these crevasses become very complicated, and the surface presents an ex- panse of towers and domes and pinnacles of ice, often of fan- tastic appearance ; but at the bottom these masses are still joined, and on coming down to a gentler slope they close up again at Fig. 5.— c, c, show fissures and seracB where the glacier moves the SUrface for down the steeper portion of its incline ; s, «, show the v, ivy vertical stmctare produced by pressure on the gentler their Onward march. In addition to the crevasses or iissures, produced by the tension where the ice-stream passes over a steeper incline, a set of marginal iissures extend from the sides of the glacier toward the center, but pointing upward at an angle of about forty-five degi-ees. These, \' x t 5« too, appear to be the result of tension. The motion of the ice in the center, being more rapid than that to- ward' the sides, produces a line of tension, or strain, ex- tending from the center di- agonally downward toward the sides at an angle of forty-tive degrees. The pressure upon these masses of ice^ whose central point is being wheeled downward by the differ Fig, 6. Fig. \ Fios. 6, 7.— Illustrate the formation of margin- al fissures and veins. WHAT JS A GLACIERS 9 ential motion, produces also a veined structure in the masses themselves, at right angles to these marginal iissures. The surface of a glacier presents many interesting phe- nomena. When the ice-stream is of sufficient size, the sur- face is covered with a network of small streams of water, flowing through blue channels of ice sometimes many yards in depth and width. But these are destined eventually to encounter some crevasse,. where a circular shaft, or moulin, as it is called, is formed, opening a way to a subglacial chan- nel, into which the streams plunge nu. 8.-Eiiistrate8 the foima- . .-1 1 J J .1 1,1 tion ol veined structure by witn a loud roar, and the accumulated pressure at the juDction of , _e. 1 1 T 1 . two branches. waters may often be heard rushmg onward hundreds of feet below the surface. During the melting of a glacier, also, in the summer season, the surface of the ice is frequently dotted vrith bowl-shaped depressions, from one or two inches to many feet in depth, and filled with beautiful clear water. The cause of this can not well be conjectured. In Greenland, Nordenskiold attributed the initial melting to accumulations of meteoric dust which he named kryokonite. Glaciers in mountainous regions are also characterized by lateral and medial moraines. Where the ice stream passes by a mountain-peak, the falling rocks and the avalanches started by streams of water, form along the edge of the gla- cier a continuous line of debris, which is carried forward by the moving ice, and constitutes what is called a lateral mo- raine. If there be a current of ice on each side of the mount- ain-peak, two of the lateral moraines will become joined be- low the mountain, and will form what is called a medial moraine, which will be carried along the back of the ice as far as the motion contiimes. As the ice wastes away toward the front, several medial moraines sometimes coalesce. This, as will be seen, is finely shown in some glaciers of Alaska. A medial moraine, when of sufficient thickness, protects 10 THE ICE AOE JN NORTH AMERICA. the ice underneath it from melting; so that the moraine will often appear to be much larger than it really is : what seems to be a ridge of earthy material being in reality a long ridge of ice, thinly covered with earthy debris, sliding down the slanting sides as the ice slowly wastes away. Large blocks of stone in the same manner protect the ice from melting un- FirTlModeoffo^ion dcmeath, and are found standing on pe- of ice-pillars. ^^^^^^ ^^ j^.^^ ^^^^^ ^^^ general surface has been lowered sometimes several feet. An interesting feature of these blocks is that when the pedestal fails, the block uniformly falls to- ward the sun, since that is the side on which the melting has proceeded most rapidly. All the material brought down upon the surface of the glacier in the medial moraines is deposited at the front, forming a terminal mo- raine, which will vary in size according to the abundance of material transported by the ice, and in proportion to the length of time during which the front rests at a particular point. But, ordinarily, for a consid- erable distance this mo- raine material near the front will rest upon ex- tensive masses of ice '^'■^^fZ.^'^^^v ^l^rir''^^Z.t 11'. which only slowly melt lSX?d"e^'lU'&Sl^1^o'?a1n1'abovl°^ WHAT IS A OLACIEBt H away. It is largely owing to this that a true terminal moraine is made up of knolls and bowl-shaped depressions called kettle-holes, and of short tortuous ridges of bowlders and gravel. Another result connected with the decay of a glacier is the production of kames — this being the Scotch word for sharp, narrow ridges of gravel, corresponding to what are called osars in Sweden and eskers in Ireland. The trend of these ridges is the same as that of the motion of the glacier, and is at right angles to tlie terminal moraine. Their for- mation can be witnessed on a large scale near the front of the Muir Glacier in Alaska. In certain localities a great amount of sand, gravel, and bowlders becomes spread out over the surface of the ice at a considerable elevation. Through some changes in the subglacial drainage a stream wears a long tunnel in the ice underneath this deposit, which at length proceeds so far that the roof caves in, and the earthy debris is gradually precipitated to the bottom of the tunnel, thus forming one class of kames. In other places, evidently, water-worn channels in the ice have been silted up by the' stream, and then the line f)f drainage changed, so that, when the supporting walls of ice melted away, another class of kames, with what is called " anticli- nal " stratiiieation, is produced. It should be mentioned also that, after the analogj' of a river, a glacier shoves sand and gravel and bowlders under- neath it along its bed'; from which it can easily be seen that a glacier is a powerful eroding agency, rasping down the surface over which it moves, and by the iirm grasp in which it holds the sand, gravel, and bowlders underneath it, pro- ducing grooves and scratches and polished surfaces on the rocks below, while these stones themselves will in turn be scratched and polished in a peculiar manner. Wherever the glaciers have receded, so that their bed can be examined, these phenomena, which we reason from the nature of the ease must have been produced, are found actually to occur, and a terminal moraine is sure to contain many pebbles and 12 THE ICE AGE IN NORTH AMERICA. bowlders bearing marks of the peculiar attrition to wliich they have been subjected in their motion underneath the ice. The rocks brought along upon the surface of the gla- cier of course are not thus striated, and ordinarily the mate- FlG. 11.— Glacial scorings (aftL-r Agassiz). rial of the kames has been so much rolled by water that if the pebbles ever were scratched, the marks have been erased. With this brief account of the physical characteristics of ice, and of the effects produced by its movement in a gla- cier, we are prepared to enter more understaudingly upon a survey of the actual facts relating to the past and present extent of the ice-fields over the northern part of ITorth America. Heserving the discussion of theories concerning the cause and date of the glacial period to the latter part of the treatise, we will first consider the facts concerning the glaciers still existing in America, and then briefly, by way of comparison, those concerning glaciers in other portions of the world ; after which we will present in considerable detail the more recent discoveries concerning the extension and work of the great American ice-sheet during the so- called Glacial period. r" CHAPTER II. GLACIERS ON THE PACIFIC COAST. Notwithstanding the great height of the Rocky Moun- tains, they are, in the southern part, devoid of living glaciers. This lack is doubtless caused by the dryness of the atmos- phere, the winds from the Pacific having already, before reaching the interior, yielded their moisture to the solicita- tions of the lofty peaks of the Sierra Nevada and the Cascade Range. Still, a few small glaciers are found among the sum- mits of the Wind River Mountains of Wyoming, and near the sources of Flathead River in Montana. Farther north, how- ever, near the Canadian boundary, glaciers begin to appear in increasing number and size. The broad picturesque sum- mits of the Rocky Mountains forming the continental divide between the head-waters of the Flathead River in Montana and those of the Belly, a branch of the Saskatchewan, in Canada, support innumerable glaciers of small size and many that compare well with those of the Alps. More than forty are found between Lake McDonald and the Canadian bound- ary. Of these the Sperry and Chaney glaciers are most conspicuous. Avalanche Lake, surrounded by glacier-cov- ered peaks, is one of the most picturesque localities on the continent. In the Canadian Rockies and in the Selkirk Mountains, north of the line, in Alberta and British Columbia, glaciers increase in numbers and size as higher latitudes are reached. Of these the Victoria, the Wenkchemna, the Yoho, thelllecille- waet and the Asulkan are so near stations on the Canadian 14 THE ICE AGE IN NORTH AMERICA. Pacific Railroad that they can be easily visited by tourists. The snow-fields of all these are from 9,000 to 10,000 feet above sea-level, but none of the glaciers descend much below 6,000 feet, except the lUecillewaet which reaches the level of 4,800 feet. Fig. 12.— West end of Samovar Glacier. Alaska . A wide arid space, of which few who have not traversed the region can have any conception, separates the Rocky Mountains from the Sierra Nevada nearer the Pacific coast. This latter range of mountains is, in some respects, favorably situated for the production of glaciers, since the peaks are lofty, rising in many places upward of 14,000 feet, and there is abundance of snowfall. Ordinarily, however, there is not breadth enough to the summit of the range to furnish ade- quate snow-fields for the production of first-class glaciers. The most southern collection of glaciers in the Sierra Nevada is found near the thirty-seventh parallel, a little east of the Yosemite Valley, in Tuolumne and Mono coun- ties, California. Here is a remarkable cluster of mount- GLACIERS ON THE PACIFIC COAST. 15 ain-peaks rising upward of 14,000 feet above the sea, and with breadth enough to support numerous snow-fields and glaciers. No less than sixteen glaciers of small size have been noted among these summits, of which those on Mount Dana, Mount Lyell, and in Parker Creek are the principal. None of them, however, are of great size, being in no case over a mile in length, and none of them descending much below the 11,000-foot line.* The continuation of the Sierra Nevada Mountains to the north of California is called the Cascade Range, and is largely composed of volcanic rocks. It is on Mount Shasta, in the extreme northern portion of California, that we next find glaciers of any considerable size. But from this point on, glaciers multiply and continue, in ever-increasing glory, through the Coast Range of British Columbia and southern Alaska to the islands of the Aleutian Archipelago. The glaciers upon Mount Shasta were first described by Mr. Clarence King in 1870. Previous explorers had as- cended the mountain upon the southern side, and reported it as free from glaciers, which are all upon the northern side. The most recent and detailed account of the glaciers on this mountain has been furnished by Mr. Gilbert Thompson, of the United States Geological Survey .f According to Thomp- son, Mount Shasta is a volcanic peak whose altitude above the sea is 14,511 feet. " It stands alone and has no connec- tion with neighboring mountains, none of which within a radius of forty miles attain two thirds its height." The mountain is a conspicuous object to attract attention for over a hundred miles. Five glaciers have been explored upon its northern flank, none of them, however, reaching lower than the 8,000-foot level, and none being more than three miles in length. The lower part of these glaciers is covered with vast quantities of earthy debris, so? that it is difficult to teU where the ice-field now ends. It was from these half-buried edges * Russell, " Existing Glaciers," pp. 310-327. f ^^id., pp. 332-3.S4. Ifi TEE ICE AGE IN NORTE AMERICA. of the ice-front on the flanks of Shasta that Mr. King drew the analogies which first solved the problem of the irregular gravel deposits forming the so-called kames and kettle-holes in JSTew England, as above described.* Mr. King gives a thrilling account of how he at one time started such a move- ment of earth into one of tlie ice-tunnels, and came near himself falling into the yawning ice-chasm.f The following are the principal portions of Mr. King's clear and vivid description of the glaciers on the north side of Mount Shasta : We reached the rim of the cone, and looked down into a deep gorge lying between the secondary crater and the main mass of Shasta, and saw directly beneath us a fine glacier, which started almost at the very crest of the main mountain, flowing toward us, and curving around the circular base of our cone. Its entire length in view was not less than three railes, its width opposite our station about four thousand feet, the surface here and there terribly broken in "cascades," and presenting all the characteristic features of similar glaciers else- where. The region of the terminal moraine was more extended than is usual in the Alps. The piles of rubbish superimposed upon the end of the ice indicated a much greater thickness of the glacier in former days. After finishing our observations upon the side crater, and spending a night upon the sharp edge of its rim, on the following morning we climbed over the divide to the main cone, and up the extreme summit of Shasta. . . . From the crest I walked out to the northern edge of a prominent spur, and looked down upon the system of three considerable glaciers, the largest about four and a half miles in length, J and two to three miles wide. On the next day we descended upon the south side of the cone, following the ordinary track by which earlier parties have made the climb. Prom the moment we left the summit we encountered * Russell, "Existing Glaciers," p. 11. f "Proceedings of the Boston Society of Natural History," vol. xix, p. 61. X These estimates prove to be somewhat exaggerated. Thompson gives the length of the Whitney Glacier, the longest on the mountain, as only 3,800 yards, leas than two miles and a half. J 8 THE ICE AGE IN NORTH AMERICA. less and less snow, and at no part of the journey were able to see a glacier. An east-and-west line divides the mountain into glacier-bearing and non-glacier-bearing halves. The as- cent was formerly always made upon the south side, where, as stated, there are no glaciers, and this is why able scientific observers like Professor Whitney and his party should have scaled the mountain without discovering their existence. . . . Upon reaching the eastern side we found in a deep caflon a considerable glacier, having its origin in a broad n6v6 which reaches to the very summit of the peak. The entire angle of this glacier can be hardly less than twenty-eight degrees. It is one series of cascades, the whole front of the ice being crevassed in the most interesting manner. Near the lower end, divided by a boss of lava, it forks into two distinct bodies, one ending in an abrupt rounded face no less than nine hundred feet in height. Below this the other branch extends down the caflion for a mile and a half, covered throughout almost this entire length with loads of stones which are constantly fall- ing in showers from the cafion-walls on either side. Indeed, for a full mile the ice is only visible in occasional spots, where cavities have been melted into its body and loads of stones have fallen in. From an archway under the end a consider- able stream flows out, milky, like the water of the Swiss glacier-streams, with suspended sand. Following around the eastern base of Shasta, we made our camps near the upper region of vegetation, where the forest and perpetual snow touch each other. A third glacier, of somewhat greater extent than the one just described, was found upon the northeast slope of the mountain, and upon the north slope one of much greater dimensions. The exploration of this latter proved of very great interest in more ways than one. Eeceiving the snows of the entire north slope of the cone, it falls in a great field, covering the slope of the mountain for a breadth of about three or four miles, reaching down the caflons between four and five miles, its lower edge dividing into a number of lesser ice- streams which occupy the beds of the caflons. This mass is sufficiently large to partake of the convexity of the cone, and, judging from the depth of the caflons upon the south and southeast slopes of the mountain, the thickness can not be less Pi.ATE II — Geikle Glaoior and Hano;inG; Glacier on Mounts Fox and Dawson . Rriti: Golumbia. fPhofo by Canadian Topographical Survey.) GLACIERS ON THE PACIFIC COAST. 19 than from eighteen to twenty-five hundred feet. It is cre- vassed in a series of immense chasms, some of them two thou- sand feet long by thirty and even fifty feet wide. In one or two places the whole surface is broken with concentric systems of fissures, and these are invaded by a set of radial breaks which shatter the ice into a confusion of immense blocks. Snow-bridges similar to those in the Swiss glaciers are the only means of crossing these chasms, and lend a spice of danger to the whole examination. The region of the terminal moraines is quite unlike that of the Alps, a larger portion of the glacier itself being covered by loads of angular debris. The whole north face of the mountain is one great body of ice, interrupted by a few sharp lava-ridges which project above its general level. The veins of blue ice, the planes of stratification, were distinctly observed, but neither moulins nor regular dirt-bands are present. Numerous streams, how- ever, flow over the surface of the ice, but they happen to pour into crevasses which are at present quite wide.* From Mount Shasta to the Columbia River the moun- tains support many glaciers of the third order. Mount Jef- ferson, Diamond Peak, and the Three Sisters are reported by Mr. Diller and Professor Newberry as containing numer- ous glaciers, and "as affording the most interesting field for glacial studies in the United States, with the exception of Alaska." The glaciers upon Mount Hood have been more fully explored, and aire of great interest, though, owing to the moderate elevation (11,000 feet) and the li,mited snow- fields, they are small in size. The summit of this mountain is occupied by a volcanic crater about half a milte in diameter. This serves as a fountain out of which there flow three streams of ice extending down the flanks, as glaciers, for a distance of about two miles, their subglacial streams form- ing the head-waters of the White Sandy, and the Little Sandy Rivers. In the State of Washington, a short distance north of the Columbia River, the Cascade Mountains culminate in a clus- * "American Journal of Science," vol. ci, 1871, pp. 158-161. GLACIERS ON THE PACIFIC COAST. 21 ter of peaks, with Mount Rainier, or, as it is conung to be called, Tauoiiia, as the center. This central peak is upward of 14,4-01) feet in height, and two or three neighboring peaks are upward of 10,000 feet. This great elevation, coupled with the higher latitude and rhe increasing moisture of the climate, favors the production of a most imposing series of glaciers. Even the passing traveler upon the railroad is made aware of their existence by the milky whiteness of the waters of the Cowlitz, the Xisqually, the Puyallup, and the White River, which are crossed on the way from Portland, Oregon, to Seattle in the State of Washington. All of these streams originate in glaciers far up on the flanks of the mountains to the east and south. Of this series, that on the north side of Mount Taeo- ma, at the head of White liiver Valley, is the largest, and Fig. 15.— Mount Tacoma, looking eaBtward toward the summit, from Crattr Lake. reaches down to within .5,000 feet of the sea-level. This glacier is about ten miles long, and, though comparatively narrow in its lower portion, is in places as much as four miles wide. The extreme summit of the mountain has been ascended only hy two or three parties, and the task is beset with such difficulties that it is not likely to be ascended often. Above the 9,000-foot level it is wholly enveloped in snow ; while just below that limit, and close up to the realm of perpetual ice and snow, flowers make the air fragrant witli 22 THE ICE AGE IN NORTH AMERICA. their perfume, and the open spaces are gorgeous with their masses of brilliant color. The following is the description of tlie glaciers of this mountain cluster, as given by Mr. S. F. Emmons, of the United States Geological Survey, the first to ascend it : The main White River glacier, the grandest of the whole, pours straight down from the rim of the crater in a northeast- erly direction, and pushes its extremity farther out into the valley than any of the others. Its greatest width on the steep slope of the mountain must be four or five miles, narrowing toward its extremity to about a mile and a half ; its length can be scarcely less than ten miles. The great eroding power of glacial ice is strikinglyillustrated in this glacier, which seems to have cut down and carried away, on the northeastern side of the mountain, fully a third of its mass. The thickness of rock cut away — as shown by the walls on either side — and the isolated peak at the head of the triangular spur . . . may be roughly estimated at somewhat over a mile. Of the thick- ness of the ice of the glacier I have no data for making esti- mates, though it may probably be reckoned in thousands of feet. It has two principal medial moraines, which, where crossed by ns, formed. little mountain-ridges, having peaks nearly one hundred feet high. The sources of these moraines are cliffs on the steeper mountain-slope, which seem mere black specks in the great white field above ; between these are great cas- cades, and below, immense transverse crevasses, which we had no time or means to visit. The surface water flows in rills and brooks on the lower portion of the glacier, and moulins are of frequent occurrence. We visited one double moulin, where two brooks poured into two circular wells, each about ten leet in diameter. Joined together at the surface but sepa- rated below ; we could not approach near enough the edge to see the bottom of either, but, as stones thrown in sent back no sound, judged they must be very deep. This glacier forks near the foot of the steeper mountain- slope, and sends off a branch to the northward, which forms a large stream flowing down to join the main stream fifteen or twenty miles below. Looking down on this from a high, over- GLACIERS ON THE PAGIFIG COAST. 23 hanging peak, we could see, as it were, under our feet, a little lake of deep, blue water, about an eighth of a mile in diameter, standing in the brown, gravel-covered ice of the end of the glacier. On the back of tlie rocky spur which divides these two glaciers, a secondary glacier has scooped out a basin-shaped bed, and sends down an ice-stream, having all the characteris- tics of a true glacier, but its ice disappears several miles above the mouths of the large glaciers on either side. Were nothing known of the movement of glaciers, an instance like this would seem to afEord suflBcient evidence that such movement exists, and that gravity is the main motive-power. From our north- ern and southern points we could trace the beds of several large glaciers to the west of us, whose upper and lower portions only were visible, the main body of the ice lying hidden by the high intervening spurs. Ten large glaciers observed by us, and at least half as many more hidden by the mountain from our view, proceeding thus from an isolated peak, form a most remarkable system, and one worthy of a careful and detailed study.* Still farther to the north, in the State of Washington, Mount Baker, rising to an elevation of 11,000 feet, is to a limited extent a center for the dispersion of glaciers of small size. The field, however, has been but imperfectly explored. Northward from the State of Washington the coast is everywhere very rugged, being formed by the lofty peaks of an extension of the Cascade Range; while the thousands of islands which fringe the coast of British Columbia and Alaska are but the partially submerged peaks of an extension of the Coast Range, from which the great glaciers of former times have scraped off nearly all the fertile soil. It is estimated that there are ten thousand islands between the State of Washington and Mount St. Ellas, and all the larger of them bear snow-covered summits during the whole year. The water in the narrow channels separating these islands is ordinarilj' several hundred feet deep, affording, through nearly the whole distance, a protected channel for navigation. * Quoted by Clarence King, in the "American Journal of Science," vol. ci, pp. 164, 165. t.SimpBon Fig. 16.— Map of Southeastern Alaska. The arrow-points mark gJaciew. GLACIERS ON TEE PACIFIC COAST. 25 Three great rivers interrupt the mountain barrier of British Columbia facing the Pacific— the Fraser, the Skeena, and the Stickeen — and the interior is penetrated for some distance by innumerable fiords. The Canadian Pacific Kail- road follows the course of the Fraser for a long distance, and passes within sight of glaciers of considerable extent, and every fiord receives the drainage of numerous decaying gla- ciers. But it is not until reaching the Stickeen Eiver, in Alaska, in latitude 57°, that glaciers begin to appear which are both easily accessible and large enough to invite pro- tracted study. The water coming into the soimd from the Stickeen Eiver is heavily charged with glacial mud, which spreads itself out over a great expanse. An extensive delta, forming almost the only arable land in southeastern Alaska, has been built up by the deposit at the mouth of this river. The earhest accurate information obtained concerning these glaciers is that gathered by Mr. William P. Blake in 1863. According to him, " there are four large glaciers and several smaller ones visible within a distance of sixty or seventy miles from the mouth" of the river. The second of these larger ones has attracted most attention. This "sweeps grandly out into the valley from an opening between high mountains from a source that is not visible. It ends at the level of the river in an irregular bluff of ice, a mile and a half or two miles in length, and about one hundred and fifty feet high. Two or more terminal moraines protect it from the direct action of the stream. What at first appeared as a range of ordinary hills along the river, proved on landing to be an ancient terminal moraine, crescent-shaped, and covered with a forest. It extends the fuU length of the front of the glacier." * This glacier presents many difficulties to explorers. A small party of Russian officers once attempted its explora- tion, and were never heard from again. Mr. Blake re- ports that, as usual with receding glaciers, a considerable * "American Journal of Science," vol. xoiv, 1867, pp. 96-101. GLACIERS Oy THE PACIFIC COAST. 27 portion of the front as it spreads out in the valley is so cov- ered with bowlders, gravel, and mud that it is difficult to tell where the glacier really ends. But from the valley to the higher land it rises in precipitous, irregular, stair-like blocks, with smooth sides, and so large that it was impossible to sur- mount them with the ordinary equipment of explorers. The glacier is estimated to be about forty miles long. Another glacier, upon the opposite side of tie river, of which Mr. Blake does not speak, was reported to me by those familiar with the country as coming down to within about two miles of the bank. The Indians are very likely correct in asserting that these two glaciers formerly met, compelling the Stickeen River to find its way to the sea through a vast tunnel. It would then have appeared simply as a subglacial stream of great magnitude. North of the Stickeen River, glaciers of great size are of increasing frequency, and can be seen to good advantage from the excm-sion-steamer. The Auk and Patterson gla- ciers appear first, not far north of Fort Wrangel. On approaching Holkham Bay and Taku Inlet, about latitude 58°, the summer tourist has, in the numerous icebergs en- countered, pleasing evidence of the proximity of still greater glaciers coming down to the sea-level. Indeed, the glaciers of Taku Inlet are second only in interest to those of Glacier Bay, hereafter to be described more fully. In going from Juneau to ChUkat, at the head of Lynn Canal, a distance of about eighty miles, nineteen glaciers of large size are in full sight from the steamer's deck, but none of them come down far enough to break off into the water and give birth to icebergs. The Davidson Glacier, however, conies down just to the water's edge, and has there built up an immense terminal moraine all along its front. An illustration of the precipitous character of the south- eastern coast of Alaska is seen in the fact that it is only thirty-five miles from the head of Lynn Canal to the sources of the Yukon River, which then fiows to the north and west for nearly three thousand miles before coming down to the sea- OLAGIERS ON THE PACIFIC COAST. 29 level. Lieutenant Schwatka reports four glaciers of consider- able size in the course of this short portage between Chilkat and Lake Lindeman.* The vast region through which the Yukon flows to the north of these mountains is not known to contain any extensive glaciers. But the ground remaius perpetually frozen at a short depth below the surface. Russell reports that in many places cliffs of ice abut upon the border of the Yukon on whose surface is a sufficient depth of soil Fig. 19. — Davidson Glacier, near Chilkat, Alaska, latitude 59° 45'. Tlie mountains are from five thousand to seven thousand feet high ; the gorge about three quarters of a mile wide ; the front of the glacier, three mUes ; the terminal moraine, about two hundred and fifty feet high. (View from two miles distant.) to support dense evergreen forests. Since the discovery of gold in the region a considerable population has entered, and certain forms of agriculture have begun to flourish. From Cross Sound, about latitude 58° and longitude 136° west from Greenwich, to the Alaskan Peninsula, the coast is bordered by a most magnificent semicircle of mountains, opening to the south, and extending for more than a thousand miles. Throughout this whole extent, glaciers of large size * " Science," vol. iii (February 22, 1884), pp. 220-227. 30 THE ICE AGE IN NORTH AMERICA. are everywhere to be seen. Elliott estimates that, count- ing great and small, there can not be less than five thousand glaciers between Dixon's Entrance and the extremity of the Alaskan Peninsula. The glaciers in the vicinity of Mt. St. Ellas are the largest anywhere to be found on the continent. Nxmierous single glaciers, of which Seward is the largest, come down from the mountain range and, becoming confluent, unite to form the Malaspina glacier. This is a plateau of ice about 1,500 feet in height stretching all along the southern base of the St. Elias range for a distance of fifty miles, and covering an area of about a thousand square miles. In Icy Bay the gla- cier comes down to sea-level, presenting a solid wall many miles in extent, which is continually breaking off into ice- bergs of great size. Far out upon the surf ace large forests occur surrounded by glacial ice. These are supported upon deep beds of gravel and sand which have been carried out by mountain streams whose channels have changed from time to time with the varying conditions of the surface of the ice. Lakes of considerable size are also found upon the surface at an altitude as high as 5,000 feet, with streams flowing between the ice and the mountain side, illustrating, possibly, the origin of many terraces of gravel on the flanks of moun- tains in the glaciated region of the United States. Such are to be noted on the flanks of both the Green and the Adiron- dack mountains, deposited originally on the sides of the mass of ice that filled the Champlain Valley. The glaciers of the St. Elias range are, however, mostly confined to the south side which is exposed to the sea breezes. Schwatka and Hayes who in 1892 made the tour of the range, coming out at Copper River, found the country free from glaciers and the climate so dry that they could comfort- ably sleep out of doors. The glaciers about the upper end of YaJsutat Bay are of special interest because of the recent changes which have GLACIERS ON THE PACIFIC COAST. 31 taken place in them. The narrowing upper portion of the bay which is now bordered by the gravel deposits of the gla- cial streams pouring out from the southeastern portion of the Malaspina Glacier is called Disenchantment Bay. But above Haenke Island the depression turns at right angles sharply to the south and extends twenty-five miles between mountain ranges forming Russell Fiord. Into this fiord Fio. 20— Map showing hjrpothetlcal former extension of glaciere during ice-flood stage, based on observations of the height reached by the glaciers at a number of points. (From XJ. S. Geological Survey.) numerous local glaciers descend from both sides. The evi- dence is clear that at a comparatively recent time, probably as late as the visit of Vancouver near the close of the 18th 32 THE ICE AGE IN NORTH AMERICA. century, the Malaspina Glacier, and others near its south- eastern border, had advanced so as to completely fill Disen- chantment Bay and transform Russell Fiord into a long nar- row lake, dammed up by the ice at the mouth of the bay. According to Tarr,* the evidences of thi&recent advance are abundant in the moraines that were pushed up on the moun- tain slopes east of Yakutat Bay. But, for some time previous to 1905, a recession had been in progress along the front of all the separate glaciers into which the original confluent glacier had been resolved by the general retreat. Thus he writes: There is a remarkable change in progress in at least four of the many valley glaciers of the Yakutat Bay region — the Variegated, Haenke, Atrevida, and Marvine. This change is of the nature of a paroxysmal thrust, as a result of which the ice is badly broken, as if a push from behind had been applied with such vigor as to break the rigid resisting ice mass in front. In each case the effect of this thrust is felt from far up the moimtain valley well down toward the terminus of the glacier, and in the Haenke and Marvine glaciers to their very end. In Variegated and Atrevida glaciers the ice has been broken for a distance of five to seven miles: in Marvine glacier the breaking extends fully fifteen miles. The crevassing in all cases extends completely across the valley portion of the glacier and down into the stagnant, or nearly stagnant, moraine-covered margin. In all cases, too, the thrust is accompanied by a forward movement of the margin; and in at least three cases — ^the Variegated, Haenke, and Atrevida — there has been a distinct thickening of the ice as a result of the forward thrust. . . . Such a remarkable change in the condition of the glaciers as to transform long-stag- nant, unbroken, moraine-covered valley glaciers into a laby- rinth of crevasses in the short interval of ten months — a phenomenon, so far as known, not elsewhere recorded — calls for a special explanation. *"United States Geological Survey, Professional Paper" 64, pp. 91-106. >, GLACIERS ON THE PACIFIC COAST. 33 Professor Tarr attributes this remarkable advance to the effect of the earthquake which occurred in the region in 1899, six years before. This earthquake, which was sufficient to elevate a portion of the coast forty-seven feet, he supposes to have shaken large quantities of snow down from the more elevated peaks upon the head of the glaciers, and that it took all the intervening six years to make its influence felt at the margin. Thus, as the weather bureau, when the extent of the rainfall at the sources of a great river is known, can predict when the swollen current will reach successive points along the river valley, so the glacialist can foretell, from the snow-fall over the nev4, when its influe'nce will be felt below through the more resisting medium of the glacial ice. The suddenness with which this advance began and the vigor Avith which it went forward afford an interesting com- mentary upon the prevailing notions entertained concerning the "uniformity of nature's operations," and make it easier for us to credit the vast changes which appear to have taken place in this region since Vancouver's visit in the latter part of the 18th century. Vancouver's account of the glacial phenomena along this coast is still both instructive and interesting, and in places curious. Between these points [Pigot and Pakenham] a bay is formed, about a league and a half deep toward the north- northwest, in which were seen several shoals and much ice ; the termination of this bay is bounded by a continuation of the above range of lofty mountains. On this second low pro- jecting point, which Mr. Whidbey called " Point Pakenham," the latitude was obsei-ved to be 60° 59^', its longitude 212° 29'. The width of the arm at this station was reduced to two miles, in which were several half-concealed rocks, and much floating ice, through which they pursued their examination, to a point at the distance of three miles along the western shore, which still continued to be compact, extending north 30° east ; in this direction they met such innumerable huge bodies of ice, some afloat, others lying on the ground near the shore in ten GLACIERS ON THE PACIFIC COAST. 35 or twelve fathoms water, as rendered their further progress up the branch rash and highly dangerous. This was, however, very fortunately, an object of no moment, since before their return they had obtained a distinct view of its termination, about two leagues farther in the same direction, by a firm and compact body of ice reaching from side to side, and greatly above the level of the sea ; behind which extended the con- tinuation of the same range of lofty mountains, whose summits syemed to be higher than any that had yet been seen on the coast. While at dinner in this situation they frequently heard a very loud, rumbling noise, not unlike loud but ' distant thun- der ; similar sounds had often been heard when the party was in the neighborhood of large bodies of ice, but they had not before been able to trace the cause. They now found the noi.se to originate from imoiense ponderous fragments of ice, breaking off from the higher parts of the main body, and fall- ing from a very considerable height, which in one instance produced so violent a shock that it was sensibly felt by the whole party, although the ground on which they were was at least two leagues from the spot where the fall of ice had taken place. . . . The base of this lofty range of mountains [between Elias' and Fairweather], now gradually appi'oached the sea-side ; and to the southward of Cape Fairweather it may be said to be washed by the ocean ; the interruption in the sum- mit of these very elevated mountains, mentioned by Captain Cook, was likewise conspicuously evident to us as we sailed along the coast this day, and looked like a plain composed of a solid mass of ice or frozen snow, inclining gradually toward the low border ; which, from the smoothness, uniformity, and clean appearance of its surface, conveyed the idea of ex- tensive waters having once existed beyond the then limits of our view, which had passed over this depressed part of the mountains, until their progress had been stopped by the severity of the climate, and that, by the accumulation of suc- ceeding snow, freezing on this body of ice, a barrier had become formed that had prevented such waters from flowing into the sea. This is not the only place where wo had noticed the like appearance : since passing the icy bay mentioned on the 38th 36 TEE ICE AGE IN NORTH AMERICA. of June, other valleys had been seen strongly resembling this, but none were so extensive, nor was the surface of any of them so clean, most of them appearing to be very dirty. I do not, however, mean to assert that these inclined planes of ice must have been formed by the passing of inland waters thus into the ocean, as the elevation of them, which must be many hundred yards above the level of the sea, and their having been doomed for ages to perpetual frost, operate much against this reasoning ; but one is naturally led, on contemplating any phenomenon out of the ordinary course of nature, to form some conjecture, and to hazard some opinion as to its origin, which on the present occasion is rather ofEered for the purpose of describing its appearance, than accounting for the cause of its existence.* Westward from Mt. St. Elias the lofty semicircular ranges culminating in Mount Wrangell and Mount McKinley, both of which attain an elevation of 20,000 feet (the former being a live volcano), aboimd with glaciers beside which those of the Swiss Alps would seem insignificant. While from the flanks of the Cbugatch Range immense streams of ice descend to Prince William Sound, and add greatly to the gloomy gran- deur of its scenery. Glaciers are also numerous in the Kenai and Alaskan peninsulas as far to the westward as longitude 162°, and one even has been observed upon the island of Unalaska. Beyond these ranges the broad valleys of the Kuskovim and the Yukon rivers are chiefly characterized by sparsely covered timber areas and tundras in many respects similar to the Arctic litoral of Siberia, where the soil is frozen to a great' depth, the heat of the short summer being able to melt scarcely more than a few inches below the surface, sections in many places showing alternate layers of earth and pure ice. In Alaska, however, a few glaciers again appear in the high- lands of the far north. At Eschscholtz Bay, on Kotzebue Sound, in latitude 66° *"Voyageof Discovery around the World," vol. v, pp. 312-314, 358-360. I c o '^■^elo/ig. y' S) .\^<"igent Pt. "l-Sarr.u. "-P :E A. ^ A i^B"" h-''o. CHalket ISanmng -«~ Ft J AIEUTIA '3 SCALE a^TToo ( ■e ^ I N «^. ^-^-^ iVr >u,.^ ^^■Ki '■•'Vti '% tA ■"niB '"'■OA, >^' PH.YSICA eCALl 5 60 100^ REFE ALTITU DES IN FEET. BU B to BOO, Very L. te^ 500 io 1,000, Higlier ^^ri i,000 to SfOOO, Tlateah ^^~^ S,000 to f 0,000, Summi\ 1 Ooer W,000, Sighed "Warm Ourrento'-j.i; Glaeiert c* ^s/ K«VAK 1.;/ '^ - - Jell <- "l?^ Vfry'imiKS^S !enai .. - • 1 ^DLETONj^***^ , .. .^of ^^-Sm* FaTrilrei^/^^p^ J C Douglas .SUTKHOON •' / ij ' ^l> SITKHINAK t ^ .^. flEMIDI IS / A \J i^ F~i a ^ -^ ^^SH-rtj.^ Longitude from Greenwich GLAOIEES ON THE PACIFIC COAST. 37 15', Kotzebue discovered in 1818 a cliff of frozen mud and ice " capped by a few feet of soil bearing moss and grass." * Large number of bones of the " mammoth, bison (?), rein- deer, moose-deer, musk-ox, and horse, were found" at the base, where they had fallen down from the cliff during the summer thaws. Sir Edward Belcher and Mr. G. B. Seeman after- ward visited the same spot and corroborated Kotzebue's ac- count. From their report it was evident that the conditions in northern Alaska are very similar to those in northern Si- beria, where so many similar remains of extinct and other animals have been found in the frozen soil. The section de- scribed at Eschscholtz Bay seems to be simply the edge of the twndra which is so largely represented in the central portions of the Territory. In 1880 Mr. Dall visited the local- ity and gave a fuller description than had been before given. The conditions are so unique that we reproduce his account : The ice-cliffs at this point were for a considerable distance double ; that is, there was an ice-face exposed near the beach with a small talus in front of it and covered with a coating of soil two or three feet thick, on which luxuriant vegetation was growing. All this might be thirty feet in height. On climb- ing to the brow of this bank the rise from that brow proved to be broken, hummocky, and full of crevices and holes ; in fact, a second talus on a larger scale, ascending to the foot of a sec- ond ice-face, above which was a layer of soil one to tliree feet thick covered with herbage. The brow of this second bluff we estimated at eighty feet or more above the sea. Thence the land rose slowly and gradu- ally to a rounded ridge, reaching the height of three or four hundred feet only at a distance of several miles from the sea, with its axis in a north-and-south direction, a low valley west from it, tbe shallow bay at Elephant Point east from it, and its northern end abutting in the cliffs on the southern shore of Eschscholtz Bay. There were no mountains or other high land about this ridge in any direction ; all the surface around was lower than the ridge itself. * See Prestwich's " Geology," vol. ii, p. 463 et seq. 38 THE ICE AGE IN NORTH AMERICA. About half a mile from the sea, on the highest part of the ridge, perhaps two hundred and fifty feet above higb-vrater mark, at a depth of a foot, we came to a solidly frozen stratum consisting chiefly of bog-moss and vegetable mold, but con- taining good-sized lumps of clear ice. There seemed no reason to doubt that an extension of the digging would have brought us to solid clear ice such as was visible at the face of the bluff below ; that is to say, it appeared that the ridge itself, two miles wide and two hundred and fifty feet high, was chiefly composed of solid ice overlaid with clay and vegetable mold. The ice in general had a semi-stratified appearance, as if it still retained the horizontal plane in which it originally con- gealed. The surface was always soiled by dirty water from the earth above. This dirt was, however, merely superficial. The outer inch or two of the ice seemed granular, like compacted hail, and was sometimes whitish. The inside was solid and transparent or slightly yellow-tinged, like peat- water, but never greenish or bluish like glacier-ice. But in many places the ice presented the aspect of immense cakes or fragments irregularly disposed, over which it appeared as if the clay, etc., had been deposited. Small pinnacles of ice ran up into the clay in some places, and, above, holes were seen in the face of the clay bank, where it looked as if a detached fragment of ice had been melted out, leaving its mold in the clay quite perfect.* After speaking of the frequency with which the bones of the mammotli and buflfalo and other animals are found, and of portions of the earth which still has in it the odor of the decaying flesh, Dr. Dall adds : Dwarf birches, alders seven or eight feet high, with stems three inches in diameter and a luxuriant growth of herbage, including numerous very toothsome berries, grew with the roots less than a foot from perpetual solid ice. The formation of the surrounding country shows no high land or rocky hills, from which a glacier might have been derived and then covered with debris from their sides. The continuity of the mossy surface showed that the ice must be * " American Journal of Science," vol. cxxi, 1881, pp. 106-109. GLACIERS OS THE PACIFIC COAST. 39 quite destitute of motion, and the circumstances appeared to point to one conclusion, that there is here a ridge of solid ice rising several hundred feet above the sea and higher than any of the land about it and older than the mammoth and fossil horse, this ice taking upon itself the functions of a regular stratified rock. The formation, though visited before, has not hitherto been intelligibly described from a geological stand- point. Though many facts may remain to be investigated, and whatever be the conclusions as to its origin and mode of preservation, it certainly remains one of the most wonderful and puzzling geological phenomena in existence. The same author elsewhere writes that the continuity of this deposit "is broken between Kotzebue Sound and Icy Cape by rocky hills composed chiefly of carboniferous lime- stones, which bear no glaciers, and do not seem to have been glaciated. The absence of bowlders and erratics over all this area has been noted by Franklin, Beechy, and all others who have explored it." * During the period of the Russian occupancy of Alaska scarcely anything was added to our knowledge of its glaciers further than what is to be found in the notes of Vancouver's voyage. Even the existence of Glacier Bay, which is to form tlie subject of the next chapter, was not suspected till a comparatively recent time, and it is not noted on any map drawn previous to 1880. Muir Glacier," which is now the object of greatest interest to the host of summer tourists who crowd the steamers making the round trip from Portland, Oregon, through the waters of southeastern Alaska, was brought to the notice of the outside world by the California gentleman whose name it bears, as late as 1 879, when he and Rev. Mr. Young, of the Presbyterian mission at Fort Wran- gel, made a voyage of discovery around the archipelago in a dug-out canoe. * " Bulletin of the Philosophical Society of Washington," vol. vi, p. 33 ; quoted in Russell, as above, p. 354. CHAPTEE III. A MONTH WITH THE MtJIE GLACIEE. In the summer of 1886 a party of three, consisting of Rev. J. L. Patton, Mr. Prentiss Baldwin, and myseK, ar- ranged to visit the Mnir Glacier, at the head of Glacier Bay in Alaska, for the purpose of collecting facts concerning its motion, its size, its present general condition, and its probable past history and future career. The present chapter will detail with some minuteness the results of our observa- tion. On the 4th of August, in company with two Indians for assistants, we were landed by the excursion-steamer on the east side of the inlet, directly in front of the Muir Glacier, with a dug-out canoe as our only means of escape, and two canvas tents as our only shelter. Here we remained a whole month, or until September 2d, while the steamer made a round trip to Portland, Oregon, and returned with another load of freight and tourists. The region is the most desolate imagi- nable. Indians rarely navigate its upper waters, and it is visited only by the steamer to allow tourists to behold for a few hours the wonderful spectacle of a stream of ice more than a mile in width, and four hundred feet in height, mov- ing onward with irresistible force to meet the equally irre- sistible waters of a deep tidal inlet. Those who have here, for a few hours only, witnessed the " calving " of icebergs, and heard the detonations preceding and accompanying the falling of the masses from the ice-front, can never forget the scene. Much less can we forget it, who spent a month in the majestic presence of the mighty glacier. A MONTH WITH THE MUIR O LACIER. 41 Our facilities for observations were limited by several unfavorable conditions. In the first place, though we were there in the dry season, fifteen of the twenty-nine days were so rainy that it was impossible to stir out of our tents or to see far through the mists. In the second place, the tides were so strong, and the winds at times so vio- lent, that it was hazardous to venture far away with our canoe. In the next place, the surface of the glacier is, in its central portion, so intersected by yawning crevasses that it was entirely out of the question to attempt to cross it. Plans for measurement, different from those made familiar in Professor Tyndall's book, had therefore to be devised. On the other hand, some things were favorable to obtain- ing satisfactory results. The fourteen days of fair weather were extremely clear and beautiful, and there are no trees upon the mountains to obstruct one's view or to hinder him in rambling over them. The specific results as to the movements of the ice, and as to the formation of moraines and kames, are told a little later. Here a few words will be in place concerning the general aspect of the region as we saw it in August. The mountains on each side of Muir Inlet rise immedi- ately from the water from three thousand to five thousand feet. These we often ascended, and thus were permitted repeatedly to behold one of the most marvelous views any- where to be found in the world. At that season the level places around our feet upon these summits were carpeted •with soft green grass, interspersed with large areas of flow- ers in fuU bloom. Here were extensive, gorgeously colored flower-beds, where bluebells, daisies, buttercups, violets, the yellow arnica-flower, and the purple epilobium, were striv- ing for mastery or for recognition. On the northern slopes of slight elevations great masses of snow were preserved in the very midst of these brilliant flower-gardens, and, from their melting, clear little pools of water were on every hand inviting us to drink. The track of the mount- 42 TEE ICE AGE IN NORTH AMERICA. airi goat, the mountain lion, and of various smaller animals, and the songs of birds, witnessed to the abundance of ani- mal life. To the south the calm surface of the bay opened outward into Cross Sound, twenty-five miles away. The islands dot- ting the surface of the smooth water below us seemed but specks, and the grand vista of snow-clad mountains, guarding either side of Chatham Strait, seemed gradually to come to a point on the southern horizon. Westward, toward the Pacific, was the marvelous outline of the southern portion of the St. Elias Alps. The lofty peaks of Crillon (15,900 feet high) and Fairweather (15,500 feet high), about twenty- five miles away, and about the same distance apart, stood as sentinels over the lesser peaks. La Perouse, Lituya, and their companions, which, anywhere else, would appear to be mountains of the first class, being more than ten thousand feet high, and rising directlv from the water's edge. At one time, when on a summit overlooking Glacier Bay, it was our good fortune to see the sun go down behind this mount- ain-chain. Alternate shadows and golden rays of setting sunlight stretched across the water and chmbed the peak on which we stood. The glistering summits of the western mountains were lined with the same glowing colors, while the solemn procession of glaciers on their eastern flanks was gradually fading in the growing darkness, and the more dis- tant mountain-tops in other directions were ceasing to reflect the glow of the western horizon. In such a setting of grandeur and beauty . we gazed upon tlie full face of the great glacier itself lying at our feet. Below us its diminishing outlet disappeared in the waters of ths bay. Distance made the rough places plain, and lent enchantment to the view. Down from the mountains in every direction from the north came the frozen torrents : Glaciers to the right of us, Glaciers to the left of us, Glaciers in front of us, Volleyed and thundered — A MONTH WITH THE MUIB GLACIER. 43 pouring into a vast amphitheatre, and then uniting their vol- ume, preparatory to their exit through the entrance into Muir Inlet. These numerous local glaciers united to form nine main streams whose individuality could be determined all across the amphitheatre by the long lines of medial moraines which swept around in majestic curves fi"om every quarter, like great railroad embankments in approaching some grand central depot. Such is a faint description of the scene upon which we gazed. Strength and beauty were here united as probably nowhere else in the world. But the shades of night slowly fell upon us, even in that high latitude, and we were compelled to come down closer to the thundering noises of the active glaciers and seek the prosaic quarter of our tents, and to go about the more detailed investigation of the mar- velous phenomena before us. The results I will now pro- ceed to give. The Muir Glacier enters an inlet of the same name at the head of Glacier Bay, in latitude 58° 50', longitude 136° 40', west of Greenwich (see Fig. 22). This bay is a body of water about thirty miles long, and from eight to twelve miles wide (but narrowing to about three miles at its upper end), projecting in a northwest direction from the eastern end of Cross Sound. The promontory separating it from the Pacif- ic Ocean is from thirty to forty miles wide, and contains the lofty mountain-peaks of Crillon, Fairweather, Lituya, and La Perouse, whose heights have already been indicated. To the east, between Glacier Bay and Lynn Canal, is a pen- insala, extending considerably south of the mouth of the bay, and occupied by the White Mountains, probably having no peaks exceeding ten thousand feet. Near the mouth of Glacier Bay is a cluster of low isl- ands named after Commander Beardslee, of the United States Navy. There are twenty -live or thirty of these, and they are composed of loose material — evidently glacial debris — and are in striking contrast with most of the islands and shores in southeastern Alaska. These, also, like all the other land to the south, are covered with evergreen forests, though 44 THE IGE AGE IW NORTH AMERICA. Fig. 22. the trees are of moderate size ; but the islands and shores in the upper part of the bay are entirely devoid of forests. Willoughby Island, near the middle of the bay, is a bare rock, about two miles long and fifteen hundred feet high, showing glacial furrows and polishing from the bottom to the top. Several other smaller islands of similar character in this part of the bay show like signs of having been re- cently covered with glacial ice. The upper end of the bay is divided into two inlets of A MONTE WITH THE MUIE GLACIER. 45 unequal lengths, the ■western one being about four miles wide, and extending seven or eight miles (estimated) in the direction of the main axis of the bay to the northwest. The eastern, or Muir Inlet, is a little over three miles wide at its mouth, and extends to the north about the same distance, narrowing, at the upper end, to a little over one mile, where it is interrupted by the front of the Muir Glacier. The real opening between the mountains, however, is here a little over two miles wide, the upper part on the eastern side being oc- cupied with glacial debris covering a triangular space be- tween the water and the mountain about one mile wide at the ice-front and coming to a point three miles below, be- yond which a perpendicular wall of rock one thousand feet high rises directly from the water. The mountain on the west side of Muir Inlet, between it and the other fork of the bay, is 2,900 feet high. That on the east is 3,150 feet high, rising to about 5,000 feet two or three miles back. The base of these mountains consists of metamorphic slate, whose strata are very much contorted — so much so that it is difficult to ascertain their system of folds. Upon the summits of the mountains on both .sides are remnants of blue crystalline limestone pi*eserved in synclinal axes. In the terminal mo- raine deposited in front of the glacier on its eastern side are numerous bowlders of very pure white marble brought down in medial moraines from mountain valleys several miles to the east. Granitic bowlders are also abundant. The width of the ice where the glacier breaks through between the mountains is 10,664 feet — a little over two miles. But, as before remarked, the water-front is only about one mile. This front does not form a straight line, but terminates in an angle projecting about a quarter of a mile below the northeast and northwest comers of the inlet. The depth of the water three hundred yards south of the ice- front is (according to the measurement of Captain Hunter, of the steamer Idaho) 516 feet near the middle of the chan- nel ; but it shoals rapidly toward the eastern shore. A meas- urement reported to me by Dr. Jackson, made in July, L -=3 - o A MONTH WITH THE MUIR GLACIER. 47 1887, with the prow of the steamer within twenty feet of the ice-front, is one hundred and six fathoms (636 feet), and no bottom. Accordmg to my measurements, taken by level- ing up on the shore, the height of the ice at the extremity of the projecting angle in the middle of the inlet was 250 feet, and the front was perpendicular. Back a few hun- dred feet from the projecting point, and along the front nearer the shores, the perpendicular face of the ice was a lit- tle over 300 feet. A little farther back, on a line even with the shoulders of the mountains between which the glacier emerges to meet the water, the general height is 408 . feet. From here the surface of the glacier rises toward the east and northeast about 100 feet to the mile. On going out in that direction on the ice seven miles (as near as I could estimate), I found myself, by the barometer, 1,050 feet above tlie bay. The main body of the glacier occupies a vast amphithea- tre, with diameters ranging from thirty to forty miles. This estimate was made from various views obtained from the mountain-summits near its mouth, when points whose dis- tances were known in other directions were in sight. Nine main streams of ice unite to form the grand trunk of the glacier. These branches come from every direction north of the east-and-west line across the mouth of the glacier ; and no less than seventeen sub-branches can be seen coming in to join the main streams from the mountains near the rim of the amphitheatre, making twenty-six in all. N^umerous rocky eminences also rise above the surface of the ice, like islands from the sea, corresponding to what are called nuna- taks in Greenland. The two of these visited, situated about four miles back from the front, showed that they had been recently covered with ice — their surfaces being smoothed and scored, and glacial debris being deposited everywhere upon them. Upon the side from which the ice approached these islands (the stoss side) it rose, like breakers on the sea- shore, several hundred feet higher than it was immediately on the lee side. A short distance farther down on the lee side, however, the ice closes up to its normal height at that 48 THE lOE AGE IN NORTH AMERICA. point. In both instances, also, the lee side of these islands seemed to be the beginning of important subglacial streams of water — brooks running into them as into a funnel, and causing a backward movement of ice and moraine material, as where there is an eddy in water. In both these cases, however, the lee sides of these islands were those having greatest exposure to the sunshine. The surface of the ice immediately in front was depressed from one to two hun- dred feet below the general surface on the lee side. The ice in the eastern half of the amphitheatre is mov- ing much more slowly than that in the western half. Of this there are several indirect indications : First, the eastern surface is much smoother than the western. There is no difficulty in traversing the glacier for many miles to the east and northeast. Here and there the surface is interrupted by superficial streams of water occupying narrow, shallow chan- nels, running for a short distance and then plunging down into fissures, or, in technical language, mmdifis, to swell the larger current, which may be heard rushing along in its im- petuous course far down beneath and out of sight. The ordinary light-colored bands in the ice parallel with its line of motion are everywhere conspicuous, and can be followed on the surface for long distances. When interrupted by cre- vasses they are seen to penetrate the ice for a depth of many feet, and sometimes to continue on the other side of a cre- vasse in a diiferent line, as if having suffered a lateral fault. The color of the ice below the surface is an intense blue, and over the eastern portion this color characterized the most of the surface. Numerous holes in the ice, penetrating downward from an inch or two to several feet and filled with water, were encountered all over the eastern portion. Some- times there was a stone or a little dirt in the bottom of these, but frequently there was apparently nothing whatever in them but the purest of water. In the shallower inclosures on the surface, containing water and a little dirt, worms, about as large around as a small knitting-needle and an inch long, were abundant. A MOy^TS WITH THE MUIR GLACIER. 49 The character and course of the moraines on the eastern half of the glacier also attest its slower motion. There are seven medial moraines east of the north-and-south line, four of which come in to the main stream from the mountains to the southeast (see Fig. 24). Near the rim of the glacial'am- phitheatre these are long distances, in some eases miles, apart ; but, as they approach the mouth of the amphitheatre, they are crowded closer and closer together near its eastern edge, imtil in the throat itself they are indistinguishably mingled. The three more southern moraines unite some dis- tance above the mouth. One of these contains a large amount of pure marble. This moraine gradually approaches the others on either side until the distance between them disappears, and its marble unites with the other material to form one common medial moraine. The fifth moraine from the south is about 150 yards in width, five miles back from the mouth. It is then certainly as much as five and prob- ably eight miles from the mountains from which the debris forming it is derived. All these moraines contain many large blocks of stone, some of which stand above the general mass on pedestals of ice, with a tendency always to fall over in the direction of the sun. One such block was twenty feet square and about the same height, standing on a pedestal of ice three or four feet high. It is the combination of these moraines, after they have been crowded together near the mouth, which forms the deposit now going on at the north- east angle of the inlet just in front of the ice. Of this more will be said in connection with the question of the recedence of the glacier. Similar phenomena, though on a smaller scale, appear near the southwest angle of the amphitheatre. The dominant streams of ice in the glacier come from the north and the northwest. These unite in the lower por- tion to form a main current, about one mile in width, which is moving toward the head of the inlet with great relative rapidity. Were not the water in the inlet deep enough to float the surplus ice away, there is no knowing how much farther' down the valley the glacier would extend. The 50 THE ICE AGE IN NORTH AMERICA. streams of ice from the east and southwest have ah-eady spent the most of their force on reaching the head of the inlet ; and, were it not for this central ice-stream, a natural equilibrium of forces would be established here independent of the water, and no icebergs would be formed. The sur- face of this central current of motion is extremely rough, so that it is entirely out of the question to walk far out upon it. On approaching this portion of the glacier from the east the transverse crevasses diagonal to the line of motion increase in number and size until the whole surface is broken up into vast parallelograms, prisms, and towers of ice, sep- arated by yawning and impassable chasms scores and hun- dreds of feet in depth. Over this part of the ice the mo- raines are interrupted and drawn out into thinner lines, often appealing merely as patches of debris on separate masses' of ice. This portion of the ice-current presents a lighter colored appearance than other portions, and the roughened lines of motion can be followed, as far as the eye can reach, through distant openings in the mountains to the north and the northwest. The comparative rapidity of the motion in this part of the ice is also manifest where it breaks off into the water at the head of the inlet. As already said, the perpendicular front of ice at the water's edge is from 250 to 300 feet in height. From this front there is a constant succession of falls of ice into the water, accompanied by loud reports. Scarcely ten minutes, either day or night, passed during the whole month without our being startled by such reports, and frequently they were like thunder -claps or the booming of cannon at the bombardment of a besieged city, and this, though om- camp was two and a half miles below the ice- front. Sometimes this sound accompanied the actual fall of masses of ice from the front, while at other times it was merely from the formation of new crevasses or the enlarge- ment of old ones. Eepeatedly I have seen vast columns of ice, extending up to the full height of the front, topple over and fall into the water. How far these columns extended A MOyXH WJTR THE MUIR GLACIER. 51 below the water could not be told accurately, but I have seen bergs floating away which were certainly 500 feet in length. At other times masses would fall from near the summit breaking off part way down, and splashing the spray up to the very top of tlie ice, at least 250 feet. The total amount of ice thus falling off is enormous. Bergs several hundred feet long and nearly as broad, with a height of from twenty to sixty feet, were numerous and constantly floating out from the inlet. The steamer meets such bergs a hun- dred miles away. The smaller pieces of ice often so cover the water of the inlet two or three miles below the glacier that it is with great difiiculty that a canoe can be pushed through them. One of the bergs measured, was sixty feet above water and about four hundred feet square. The por- tion above water was somewhat irregular, so that probably a symmetrical form thirty feet in height would have contained it. But even at this rate of calculation the total depth would be two hundred and forty feet. The cubical contents of the berg would then be almost 40,000,000 feet. Occa- sionally, when the tide and wind were favorable, the inlet would for a few hours be comparatively free from floating ice ; at other times it would seem to be full. The movements of the glacier in its lower portions are probably facilitated by the subglacial streams issuing from the front. There are four of these of considerable size. Two emerge in the inlet itself, and come boiling up, one at each comer of the ice-front, making a perceptible current in the bay. There are also two emerging from under the ice where it passes the shoulders of the mountains forming the throat of the glacier. These spout up, like fountains, two or three feet, and make their way through a channel in the sand and gravel of the terminal moraine for about a mile, and enter the inlet 250 or 300 yards south of the ice- front. These streams are perhaps three feet deep and from twenty to forty feet wide, and the current is very strong, since they fall from 150 to 250 feet in their course of a mile. It is the action of the subglacial streams neai the corners of 52 THE ICE AGE IN NORTE AMERICA. the inlet which accounts for the more rapid recession of the glacier-front there than at the middle point projecting into the water south of the line joining the east and west corners. It was also noticeable that the falls of ice were much more frequent near these corners, and the main motion of the ice as afterward measured was, not toward the middle point projecting into the inlet, but toward these corners where the subglacial streams emerged below the water. Ko small difficulty was encountered in securing direct measurements of the motion ; and, as the results may be questioned, I will give the data somewhat fully. As it was impossible to cross the main current of the glacier, we were compelled to take our measurement by triangulation. But even then it seemed at first necessary to plant flags as far out on the ice as it was safe to venture. This was done on the second day of our stay, and a base-line was established on the eastern shore, about a mile above the mouth, and the necessary angles were taken. But, on returning to repeat the observations three or four days afterward, it was found that the ice was melting from the surface so fast that the stakes had fallen, and there were no means at command to make them secure. Besides, they were not far enougli out to be of much service. It appeared also that the base-line was on a lateral moraine, which was, very likely, itself in motion. But by this time it had become evident that the masses of ice uniting to compose the main stream of motion retained their features so perfectly from day to day that tbere was no difficulty in recognizing many of them much farther out than it was possible to plant stakes. Accordingly, another base-line was established on the east side opposite the pro- jecting angle of ice in the inlet. From this position eight recognizable points in different portions of the ice-field were triangulated — the angles being taken with a sextant. Some of the points were triangulated on five different times, at inter- vals from the 11th of August to the 2d of September. Others were chosen later and triangulated a less number of times. The base-line finally chosen (marked B on Fig. 24) was at A MONTH WITE THE MUIR GLACIER. 53 the foot of the mountain exactly east by the compass from the projecting angle of ice in the inlet. The elevation of the base-line was 408 feet above tide— corresponding to that of the lee-front. The distance of this projecting point of ice (marked C on Fig. 24) from the base-line was 8,534 feet, and it remained very nearly stationary during the whole time — showing that the material breaking off from the ice- Fig. 24.— Map of Muir Inlet, showing converging moraines, and form of front Buried forest. A ; base of triangalation, B. 54 THE ICE AGE IN NORTH AMERICA. front was equal to that pushed along by the forward move- ment. Satisfactory observations were made upon eight other points numbered and located on Fig. 24. No. 1 was a pinnacle of ice 1,476 feet north by 30° east from 0. The movement from August 14th to August 24th was 1,653 feet east by 15° south. After this date the pinna- cle was no longer visible, having disappeared along the wast- ing line of front between C and the subglacial stream at the northeast corner of the inlet. This was so near the front as to be left out of the ordinary calculations. No. 2 was a conspicious pinnacle of ice 2,416 feet north by 16° east of C. Observations were continued upon this from August 11th to September 2d. The total distance moved during that time was 1,417 feet, or about sixty-five feet per day. From August 14th to August 24th the move- ment was 715 feet, or about seventy-one feet per day. The difference is, however, perhaps due to the neglect to record the hours of the day when the observations were taken. As these observations were wholly independent of each other, their substantial concordance demonstrates that there was no serious error in the observations themselves. The direction of movement of this point of ice was very nearly the same as that of the preceding, namely, east 16° south. This also is toward the subglacial stream emerging from the northeast corner of ^the inlet. No. 3 was observed only from August 20th to August 24th. It was situated 3,893 feet north by 62° east of C, and moved 105 feet in a westerly direction, about twenty-six feet per day. The westerly course of this movement probably arose from its being near where the easterly and northeast- erly currents joined the main movement. No. 4 was 5,115 feet north, 42° east of C, and moved from August 20th to August 24th 143 feet in a southeast- erly direction, or thirty-six feet per day. No. 5 was 5,580 feet north, 48° east of C, and moved 289 feet from August 20th to August 24th in a direction east by 39° south, or seventy-two feet per day. A MONTH WITH THE MUIR GLACIER. 55 No. 6 was 5,473 feet north, 70° east of C, and moved 232 feet from August 11th to September 2d in a direction sonth 66° east, or ten feet per day. No. 7 was 6.903 feet north, 59° east of 0, and moved 89 feet between August 14th and' August 24th, in a direction south 3° east, about nine feet per day. No. 8 was 7,507 feet north, 62° east of C, and moved 265 feet from August 14th to August 24th, in direction south 56° east. These last three points lay in one of the moraines on the east side of the line of greatest motion and parallel with •it. These moraines are much interrupted in their course by gaps. It is observable that these points are all east of the center of the main line of most rapid motion, and are tending with varying velocity toward the northeast comer of the inlet, where the powerful subglacial stream emerges from below the water-level. Doubtless, on the other side of the center of motion, and at the same relative distance from the front, the ice would be found tending toward the northwest corner of the inlet, where a similar subglacial stream emerges. From these observations it would seem to follow that a stream of ice presenting a cross-section of about 5,000,000 square feet (5,000 feet wide by about 1,000 feet deep) is entering the inlet at an average rate of forty feet per day (seventy feet in the center and ten feet near the margin of movement), making about 200,000,000 of cubic feet per day during the month of August. The preceding remarks upon the many indirect evidences of rapid motion render the cal- culation perfectly credible. What the rate may be at other times of the year there are at present no means of knowing. The indications that the glacier is receding, and that its volume is diminishing, are indubitable and numerous. The islands of southern Alaska are ordinarily covered with forests of cedar, hemlock, and fir, up to the level of 1,500 or 2,000 feet above tide. But to this rule the shores and islands of the upper part of Glacier Bay are a striking exception. Near the mouth of the bay, forests continue to occur as in other J2 ==> So iti "- V) A MONTH WITH THE MUIR OLAGIER. 57 parts, only on a diminished scale ; but in the upper half of the bay all the shores and islands are perfectly bare of forests, and the rocks retain in the most exposed situations fresh grooves and strisB of glacial origin. It would be impossible for rocks so exposed in such a climate to retain these for an indefinite length of time. Far up on the mountains, also, there are remnants of glacial debris in situations such that the material could not have resisted erosive agencies for any great length of time. The trifcngular-shaped terminal moraine on the eastern side, just below the ice-front, presents some interesting features bearing on the same point. This extends three miles below the glacier, and in its lower portions is thinly covered with vegetation. This covering becomes less and less abundant as the glacier is approached, until, over the last mile, scarcely any plants at all can be found. Apparently this is because there has not been time for vegetation to spread over the upper portion of the moraine since the ice withdrew, for on the mountains close by, where the exposure has been longer, there is a complete mr.tting of grass, flower- ing plants, and shrubs. Again, in this triangular moraine- covered space there are five distinct transverse ridges, mark- ing as many stages in the recession of the ice-front (see Fig. 24). These moraines of retrocession run parallel with the ice-front on that side, and at about equal distances from each other, each one rising from the water's edge to the foot of the mountain, where they are 408 feet above tide. An inspec- tion of the upper moraine-ridge shows the manner of its for- mation. This transverse ridge is half a mile below the ice- front, and is still underlaid in some portions with masses of ice ninety feet or more in thickness, which are melting away on their sides and allowing the debris covering them to shde down about their bases. Kettle-holes are in all stages of for- mation along this ridge. The subglacial stream emerging from the southeast comer of the glacier next the mountain rushes along just in the rear of this moraine-ridge, and in front of a similar deposit in process of formation on the very edge of the ice where the medial moraines spoken of termi- 58 THE ICE AOE IX NORTH AMERICA. nate. Eventually tliis stream will break out in tlie rear of that deposit also, and leave another ridge similar to the one Fig. 26.— In the foreground on the ri^ht ie a mass of ice, one half mile in front of the gla- cier, one hundred or more feet thick, covered with gravel, slowly sliding down to form the rim of a kettle-hole. The mountain back is 3,100 feet high. Near B, Pig. 22. now slowly settling down into position south of it. This first ridge south of the subglacial stream, with its ice still melting in exposed positions under its covering of gravel, can not be many years old. Still another sign of the recent date of this whole moraine appears at various places where water-courses, coming down from the mountain, are depositing superficial deltas of debris upon the edge of the glacial deposit. These deltas are very limited in extent, though the annual deposition is by no means insignificant. At the southern apex of the moraine, three miles below the ice-front, and but one hundred or two hundred yards from our camp, great ipiautities of dehris came tearing down in repeated avalanches during a prolonged sea- son of rain. Twenty-five years would be more than ample for the formation of the cone of debris at the foot of this line of avalanches. Thus there can be no reasonable doubt that A MONTH WITH THE MUIR OLAOIER. 59 during the earlier part of this century tlie ice filled the inlet several miles farther down than now. And there can be scarcely less doubt that recently the glacier filled the inlet, 2,500 feet above its present level near the front ; for the glacial debris and strise are very marked and fresh on both mountains flanking the upper part of the inlet up to that height, and the evidences of an ice-movement in the direction of the axis of the bay are not wanting as high as 3,700 feet on the eastern mountain, where I found fresh striae running north by south, and directly past the summit, which rises 1,000 or 1,500 feet still higher, just to the east. To this circumstantial evidence may be added what seems to be an irresistible inference from the notes of Vancouver's party in 179i. This party entered Cross Sound in small boats, and penetrated as far as the head of Lynn Canal and Juneau. The following is the record. We should premise, how- ever, that the point referred to as seven miles from Point Dundas is probably that at the southeastern comer of Gla- cier Bay, and the " spacious inlet lying in an east-southeast " direction is probably the channel extending toward Chatham Strait. But certainly, no one looking from that point at the present time would speak, as this report does, of this inlet as seeming to be " entirely occupied by one compact sheet of ice as far back as the eye could distinguish." Nor would the observer at the present time say that, to the north and east, the two large open bays formed by the shores of the continent seemed to be " terminated by compact solid mount- ains of ice rising perpendicular from the water's edge." The ice is now full twenty-five miles away from that point, and the ice-front is not sufficiently prominent to make such an impression as this. It is hence more than probable that, at that time, the ice extended down nearly to the mouth of the bay. The morning of the 13th [July], though unpleasant, was rather more favorable to their pursuit, which was still greatly 7 60 TEE ICE AGE IN NORTH AMERICA. impeded by the ice. From the east point of this branch, which I have called Point Dundas, situated in latitude 58° 21', longitude 334° 1', the coast takes an irregular east-northeast direction about seven miles to a point whence this branch of the [Cross] Sound appeared to be very extensive in an east- southeast point of view, and was upward of three leagues across. The party proceeded from Point Dundas to this station, through a channel from two to three miles in width, between the continental shore and an island about seven miles long and three miles broad, lying in a northeast and southwest di- rection. This spacious inlet presented to our party an ardu- ous task, as the space between the shores on the northern and southern sides seemed to be entirely occupied by one compact sheet of ice as far as the eye could distinguish. ... To the north and east of this point the shores of the continent form two large open bays, which were terminated by compact solid mountains of ice, rising perpendicularly from the water's edge, and bounded to the north by a continuation of the united lofty frozen mountains that extend eastward from Mount Fair- weather. In these bays also were great quantities of broken ice, which, having been put in motion by the springing up of a northerly wind, was drifted to the southward, and, forcing the boats from the northern shore, obliged them to take shel- ter round the northeast point of the above island. This made Mr. Whidbey apprehensive that the still apparent connected body of ice, from side to side, would at length oblige him to abandon his researches by this route, unless he should find it possible to force a passage through this formidable obstruc- tion. In attempting this, the party succeeded far beyond their expectations, for they gained an open navigation, and by four in the afternoon arrived at a low and nearly round island about two leagues in circuit, lying from the former island north 83° east, distant three leagues. This island is moder- ately elevated, its shores pleasant and easy of access, and well stocked with timber, mostly of the pine tribe. It presented a much more inviting appearance than they had been accustomed to behold, and the weather being more favorable than for some time jjast, they continued along the continental shore. A MONTH WITH THE MUIE OLACIER. 61 passing within some islets that lie about a league to the east- ward of the round island, until nine in the evening, when it became calm, and the party rested for the night at the entrance of a brook, in a bay on the northern or continental shore, which from the round island lies south 83° east, distant ten miles.* If we understand this, the bay to the north is Glacier Bay, down which the ice must then have extended south of Willoughby Island and to within a few miles of Cross Sound. Otherwise no such description could have been given. The bay to the east is probably the extension of the sound toward the mouth of Lynn Canal, and very likely glaciers at that time came down toward the west from the White Mountains and produced the appearance described. From what has already been said of the evidence showiag the present recession of the Muir Glacier, it is not at all incredible that glaciers nearly filled the whole bay a hundred years ago. All this is necessary to a comprehension of a most inter- esting problem presented by the buried forests near the south- west corner of the glacier (see A, Fig. 24). Below this comer, and extending for about a mile and a half, there is a gravel deposit, similar to that on the eastern side, except that it is not marked by transverse ridges, but is level-topped, rising gradually from about 100 feet at its southern termination tO' a little over 300 feet where it extends north and west of the ice-front (see Fig. 24). The subglacial stream entering the inlet just below the southwest comer of the ice emerges from the ice about a mile farther up, on the north side of the pro- jecting shoulder of the western mountain which forms that side of the gateway through which the glacier enters the in- let. This stream comes principally from the decaying western branch of the glacier before alluded to, and, after winding around the projecting shoulder of the mountain, which is 315 feet above tide, has worn a channel through the gravel * " Voyage of Discovery around the World," vol. v, pp. 420^23. 62 THE ICE AQE IX SOBTII AMERICA. deposit lying between the lower mile of the glacier and the mountain a short distance to the southwest. About half-way down, a small brook, coming frou] between this latter mount- ain and that whose shoulder foi-ms the western part of the gateway just north of it, joins the main stream issuing from the glacier on this side. Where these streams unite, at A, they are now uncovering a forest of cedar-trees in perfect preservation, standing upright in the soil in which they Fig. 27— Burled Forest on the Mulr Glacier, looking west. grew, with the Jnimus still about their roots. An abundance of their cones, still preserving their shape, lies about their roots ; and the texture of the wood is still unimpaired. One of these upright trunks measured ten feet in circumference about fifteen feet above the roots. Some of the smaller up- right trees have tlieir l)ranches and twigs still intact, pre- serving the normal conical appearance of a recently dead cedar-tree. These trees are in various stages of exposure. Some of A MOXTH WITH THE MUIR LACIER. 63 them ai-e uncovered to the roots ; some are washed wholly out of the soil ; while others are still buried and standing npright, in horizontal layers of fine sand and gravel, some with tops projecting from a depth of twenty or thirty feet, others being doubtless entirely covered. The roots of these trees are in a compact, stiff clay stratum, bine in color, without grit, inter- sected by numerous minute rootlets, and which is, in places, twenty feet thick. There is also, occasionally, in this sub- FlG. 28.— Shows stumps of trees on east side of the glacial torrent. Note the line of sep- aration ijetween the enveloping sand and the soil in which the roots are imbedded. A stump appears on the right, .split in two, but one half standing. The gravel corre- sponds in height with that on the west side. The glacier appears in the background on the right. (From photograph, looking north.) stratum of clay, a small fragment of wood, as well as some smooth pebbles from an inch to two feet in diameter. The surface of this substratum is at this point 85 feet above the inlet. The deposit of sand and gravel covering the forest rises 115 feet higher, and is level-topped at that lieight, but rising toward the north till it reaches the shoulder of the mountain at an elevation of 300 feet. The trees are essen- tially like those now growing on the Alaskan mountains. Manv of them have been violently broken off from five to 64 TEE ICE A6E IN NORTH AMERICA. twenty feet above their roots. This has been done by some force that has battered thein from the upper side at the point of fracture. Evidently cakes of ice brought down by the streams indicated in the map, when flowing at various high- er levels than now, have accomplished this result ; for the trunks in the main stream were battered on the north side, while those in the gully worn by the lateral stream were bat- tered from the west side. From this description the explanation would seem to be evident. At some period, when the ice occupied only the upper part of the valley to the north of this point, forests grew over all the space lying southwest of the present ice- 'front. As the ice advanced to near its present position, the streams carrying oflE the surplus water from the western half of the advancing glacier were suddenly turned into the pro- tected space occupied by this forest, where they deposited their loads of sand and gravel. A cause very likely com- bining to facilitate deposition in this spot has not yet been spoken of, but is evident from a glan'^e at the maps. A trans- verse valley passes just below this point from Muir Inlet to the western inlet into which Glacier Bay divides. This transverse valley is at present occupied by a decaying glacier opening into both inlets, and sending a subglaeial stream through a long, narrow series of moraines, into Muir Inlet about two miles to the south. Now, when a general advance of the ice was in progress, this transverse glacier probably pushed itself down into the inlet across the path of the ice moving from the north, and so formed an obstruction to the water running from the southwest corner of the main glacier, thus favoring the rapid deposition which so evidently took place. When this inclosed place was filled up, and the ad- vancing ice had risen above and surmounted the projecting shoulder of the mountain just to the north, that rocky barrier protected a portion of the forest from the force of the ice- movement, causing the ice to move some distance over the top of the superincumbent gravel before exerting its full downward force. Thus sealed up on the lee side of this pro- A MONTH WITH THE MUIR GLACIER. (35 tecting ridge of rock, there would seem to be iio limit to the length of time the forest might be preserved. I see no rea- son why this forest may not have existed before the Glacial period itself. The existence of other forests similarly preserved in tliat vicinity is amply witnessed to by many facts. One upon the island near the west shore, fom- miles south, is now exposed in a similarly protected position. Furthermore, the moraine, already described on the east side of the inlet, contains mnch wood ground up into slivers and fragments. Indeed, our whole dependence during the month for fuel was upon such fragments lying exposed in the moraine. Occasional chunks of peat or compact masses of sphagnum formed a part of the debris of this moraine. These also occurred on some of the ~n Fig. 29— Mulr Glacier from an elevation of 1 ,800 feet. medial moraines on the eastern side. I did not go up tliem far enough to learn directly their origin ; but, as no forests 66 THE 10 E AGE IN NORTH AUERIGA. were visible anywhere in that direction, it is presumable that they had been recently excavated from preglacial forests simi- lar in situation to that now exposed on the west below the ice-front. The capacity of the ice to move, without disturbing them, over such gravel deposits as covered the forests, is seen also in the present condition of the southwestern corner of the glacier itself. As the ice-front has retreated along that shore, large masses of ice are still to be seen lapping over upon the gravel. These are portions of the glacier still sus- tained in place by the underlying gravel, while the water of the inlet has carried the ice from the perpendicular bank clear away. This phenomenon, and that of the general per- pendiculai- front presented by the ice at the water's edge, accord with the well-known fact that the surface of the ice moves faster than the lower portions. Otherwise the ice- columns at the front would not fall over into the water as they do. The formation of kames, and of the knobs and kettle- holes characteristic both of kames and of terminal moraines, is illustrated in various places about the mouth of Muir Gla- cier, but especially near the southwest comer, just above the shoulder of the mountain where the last lateral branch comes in from the west. This branch is retreating, and has already begun to separate from the main glacier at its lower side, where the subglacial stream passing the buried forest emerges. Here a vast amount of water-worn debris covers the ice. ex- tending up the glacier in the line of motion for a long dis- tance. It is evident from the situation that, when the ice- stream was a little fuller than now, and the subglacial stream emerged considerably farther down, a great mass of debris was spread out on the ice at an elevation considerably above the bottom. Now that the front is retreating, this subglacial stream occupies a long tunnel, twenty-iive or thirty feet high, in a stratum of ice that is overlaid to a depth, in some places, of fifteen or twenty feet with water-worn glacial debris. In numerous places the roof of this tunnel has broken in, and A MONTH WITH THE MUIR GLACIER. 67 the tunnel itself is now deserted for some distance by the stream, so that the debris is caving down into the bed of the old tunnel as the edges of ice melt away, thus forming a tortuous ridge, with projecting knolls where the funnels into the tunnel are oldest and largest. At the same time, the ice on the sides at some distance from the tunnel, where the superficial debris was thinner, has melted down much below the level of that which was protected by the thicker deposit ; and so the debris is sliding down the sides as well as into the tunnel through the center. Thus three ridges approximately parallel are simultaneously forming — one in the middle of the tunnel and one on each side. When the ice has fully melted away, this debris will present all the comphcatious of interlacing ridges, with numerous kettle-holes and knobs chai-acterizing the kames ; and these will be approximately parallel with the line of glacial motion. The same condition of things exists about the head of the subglacial stream on the east side, also near the junction of the first branch glacier on the east with the main stream, as also about the mouth of the independent glacier shown on the map lower down on the west side of the inlet (see Fig. 24). The formation of kettle- holes in the terminal ridges has already been referred to. Considerable earthy material is carried out from the front by the bergs. Pebbles and dirt were frequently seen frozen into them as they were floating away. Just how many of the bergs were formed from ice that originally rested on the bot- tom of the inlet I have no means of telling. That some were so formed seems exceedingly probable, if for no other reasons because of the great amount of debris that was sometimes seen frozen into them. It is by no means certain that the subglacial streams boiling up near the upper comers of the inlet were beneath the lowest stratum of ice. Some small streams were seen pouring out from the face of the ice half- way up from the water. It seems likely that a great amount of sediment is conveyed into cavities in the center of the glacier through the action of these subglacial streams ; and so is ready for transportation when the masses break loose. 68 THE IGE AGE IN NORTH AMERICA. My estimates concerning the amount of sediment carried out by subglacial streams are as follows : The amount of sedi- ment contained in each United States gallon (231 cubic inches) of water collected from the subglacial streams is, as deter- mined by the analysis of the late Professor H. C. Foote, of Cleveland, 708*48 grains. Estimating the total area occupied by the glacial amphitheatre to be 1,200 square miles, and the annual precipitation the same as that at Sitka (which is not far from ninety-slK inches), the total amount of water which must in some form annually pass into the inlet from this area is 267,632,640,000 Cubic feet. Of this amoimt I estimate that 77,088,000,000 cubic feet passes out as ice, or, reducing this to water, about 67,000,000,000 cubic feet of liquid water. (This part of the calculation is based on the fact approximate- ly ascertained that a section of ice one mile wide and 1,000 feet deep is moving into the inlet at a rate of 40 feet per day.) Subtracting the ice from the total amount, and esti- mating that evaporation would probably diminish the amount one eighth, the total amount of water which must issue in all the subglacial streams from this glacier is 175,000,000,000 cubic feet. Estimating the specific gravity of the sediment (which is chiefly some compound of alumina and silica) at two and a half, we have, as the total amount of sediment transported thus, 33,274,804 cubic yards. This equals not far from one third of an inch per year eroded from the total area (1,200 square miles) occupied by the glacier. This would furnish one inch of sediment per year to be spread by this single glacier over the bottom of Glacier Bay. This confirms the statements concerning the recent recession of the glacier from the lower portion of the bay, since otherwise it would now be full of sediment. Besides the Muir Glacier several others of large size, such as the Grand Pacific and Hugh Miller Glaciers, descend from the flanks of Mts. Crillon and Fairweather into Reid Inlet, which projects several miles to the northwest from Glacier Bay. These do not differ materially in appearance and behavior from the Muir Glacier. A MONTH WITH THE MUIR OLAOIER. 69 I append the record of the thermometer from August 20th to August 31st, giving the mean of three readings each' day taken at 8 A. m., 2 p. m., and 8 p. m. The temperature of the water in the upper part of the inlet was uniformly 40° Fahr. August 20, 49-4° Fahr. August 21, 48-9° Fahr. August 22, 46-1° Fahr. August 23, 44-6° Fahr. August 24, 49-8° Fahr. August 25, 52-7° Fahr. August 26, 51-9° Fahr. August 27, 46-1° Fahr. August 28, 50-5° Fahr. August 29, 45° Fahr. August 30, 54-8° Fahr. August 31, 50-5° Fahr. The following is the list of plants, as identified by Pro- fessor Asa Gray, found in bloom about Muir Inlet during the month of August. Where the altitude is not given, they were found near the tide : Arabis ambigua, Brong August 26, 1,600 A. T. Arenaria peploides, L August 28. Astragalus alpinus, L August 7. Hedysarum boreale, Nutt August 28. Sanguisorba Canadensis August 6. Lutkea sibbaldioides, Brong August 27. Saxifraga Lyalli, Engl August 26. 1,600 A. T. Saxifraga stellaris, L August 27, 3,000 A. T. Parnassia flmbriata, Small August 27, 3,000 A. T. Pamassia palustris, L August 6. Epilobium latifolium, L August 6, 1,600 A. T. Epilobinm origanifolium Lam. (?) August 28. Solidago multiradiata, Ait August 27. Erigeron salsuginosus. Gray, arctic form. . August 27, 3,000 A. T. Antennaria margaritacea, arctic form August 27. Achillea millefolium, L., arctic variety August 27. Arnica obtusifolia, Les August 27, 1,200 A. T. Campanula rotundifoli.i, L., vai-. Alaskana. August 28. Gentiana platypetala (?) August 27. Gentiana Menziesii (?) August 27. Mertensia maritima ' August 7. Castilleja parviflora, Brong August 28. Salix vestita, Pursh August 6. Habenaria hyperborea, K. Br August 27, 2,650 A. T. Luzula parviflora, Meyer. Poa alpina, variety vivipara August 26, 1,500 A. T. Poa alpina, L August 26, 1,600 A. T. Poa laxa, Hainke August 26, 1,500 A. T. 70 THE lOE AOE IN NORTH AMERICA. Phleum alpinum, L ; August 26, 1,600 A. T. ElymuH mollis August 6. Hordenm, sp. (?) August 6. Fis. 30.— Blocks of stone supported on ice-pillars, showing how they fall toward the sun. See above, page 49. United States Geological Survey (Knssell). A MONTH WITH THE MUIR GLACIER. 71 SUPPLEMENT TO CHAPTER III. For various reasons it is best to let this chapter stand as it was originally written. But it is necessary to append a summary of the results of subsequent observations by others, especially as they have a most important bearing on several questions of glacial theory. During the summers of 1890 and 1892 Professor Harry Fielding Reid with a corps of competent assistants carefully surveyed the region and made extensive additions to our knowledge, not only of this glacier, but of glacial movements in general. The main facts, as determined by Professor Eeid, do not, however, differ materially from ours. Our estimate of twelve hundred square miles for the area of the Muir Glacier would, by his calculations, be brought down to a thousand square miles. He failed, however, to detect any motion in the glacier greater than about ten feet per day. But it should be noted that he did not measure the central, and consequently most rapidly moving portion of the ice, but limited himself to calculating the motion of those portions of the ice which he could traverse, and upon which he could plant flags of observation. Thus, not- withstanding his utmost efEorts, in going out from both direc- tions, about a quarter of a mile in width, as he informs me, re- mained untraversed, and his attempts to take angles, after the method pursued by us, upon the masses of ice themselves, failed of success. This was probably due to the fact that his base- line (near B in our map on page 53) was eight hundred feet higher upon the mountain than ours, so that he did not have the advantage which we had of seeing the domes and pinnacles of the central and higher portion of the ice projected upon the sky and the dark background of the mountains beyond. Hence it does not appear that there is any occasion to question the ap- proximate correctness of our figures as given on page 54. If, how- ever, I were to revise the estimates of the average rate of move- ment in the mass of ice, I should not place it quite so high as I have done on page 55, especially since in that calculation no allowance was made for the decrease of velocity toward the bottom. Taking this into account, together with the com- 72 THE ICE AGE IN NORTH AMERICA. parative narrowness of the area of most rapid motion, the average movement of the mass is probably not over twenty feet per day, and this amount would perhaps account for the number of bergs floating away with the tide, especially since now we must add to them the amount supplied by the recession of the front of the ice. With reference to tne evidence of the recent recession of the glacier Professor Reid agrees entirely with me. By com- parison of his photographs with mine he found that in "the four years from 1886 to 1890 the western end of the ice front has receded 1,200 yards and the eastern end 750 yards. The center also has receded about 1,000 yards, so that the average recession of the ice front is a little over 1,000 yards in the four years, or, say a mile in seven years .... It does not seem at all incredible that the ice from the various glaciers of Glacier Bay may have united to fill a large part of the bay 100 years ago." But it is no longer necessary to depend on this evidence alone. In 1906 Messrs. F. E. and C. W. Wright made an official investigation of the region with the following startling results. On comparing their map with that of Professor Reid made in 1892 they write that: Beginning with Muir Glacier and its tributaries the ice front has receded a maximum distance of 33,000 feet; Dirt Glacier is no longer tidal; White and Adams Glaciers are supplying very little ice to the general ice field; Morse Glacier terminus is about one mile from tide water .... Girdled Glacier and Berg Lake have not changed materially in aspect. The length of the total ice front of Muir Glacier is now over 40,000 feet instead of 9,000 feet in 1892. The present ice front passes at its northern extremity at about the position of your 1,000 foot contour on the ice of 1892. This remarkable decrease in elevation is undoubtedly due not only to melting down but also to breaking down of the exposed ice masses. The ascent of the ice mass at this point is decidedly steep and the ice fairly cascades into the water. The present height of the ice fronts of all the tide water glaciers is about the same A MONTH WITH THE MUIR GLACIER. 73 as noted by you in 1892 (150-250 feet), and is a noteworthy fact in connection with these glaciers. Muir Inlet is at present choked by the ice pack which promises to remain congested so long as its source of supply is so active. A considerable portion of the present front of Muir Glacier is in very shallow water and in a few years should decrease in size very materially unless new avenues and inlets for tidal currents are exposed by the receding ice. Dying Glacier is still creeping back and wasting away. Carroll Glacier has not changed much in aspect during the last fourteen years; its terminal cliff has receded about 2,000 feet and at present, apparently, is continuing to do so. It is discharging icebergs very slowly and Queen Inlet is nearly free of ice. Rendu Glacier has also changed but little, and its front is about 2,000 feet back of its position in 1892. This inlet also is not impeded by any amoimt of ice. The small glacier cas- cading from the west near its terminus appears to have changed still less. In Reid Inlet the changes have been very great and things are still moving at a rapid rate there. The inlet was congested with the ice pack last summer (1906) and on the south side near the large island the ice jam was completely frozen over and moved as one mass back and forth with the tides. Grand Pacific Glacier has receded and left the large granite island surrounded by water. It has receded nearly 20,000 feet ; but judging from the amount of ice it is now discharging and the shape of its valley it will not recede so rapidly in the next few years, other conditions remaining the same. Johns Hopkins Glacier has receded about 1 1,000 feet and is still sending off icebergs at a rapid rate. The unnamed glacier directly east has become detached from it and is much like Reid Glacier in character and appearance. Reid Glacier has receded perhaps 5,000 feet and still preserves its original aspect as indicated on your map .... Hugh Miller Glacier no longer reaches tide water in Reid Inlet and at low tide is nearly a mile back from it. The tide flats are long and with only a slight grade. In Hugh Miller 74 THE ICE AGE IN NORTH AMERICA. Inlet this glacier was exposed to tide water only in the south- western bay, where its front is intercepted in its central part by a large promontory of light colored granite. Eight thou- sand feet is approximately its recession since 1892. Charpen- tier Glacier also receded about 9,000 feet and promises to con- tinue its recession rapidly, especially along its southern front, as its valley is opening out and allowing a greater exposure of ice front to the action of tide water. The small stagnant glacier east of Charpentier is simply melting away and will probably disappear in ten or twenty years. Favorite Glacier is still receding. Wood Glacier is no longer tidal and only a small part of Geikie Glacier ice front is exposed to salt water. Geikie Glacier has receded about 5,000 feet during the past fourteen years. On the whole, recession has been the rule for the glaciers of Glacier Bay. Those glaciers have receded most whose fronts have, on recession, increased appreciably in length. In the past fourteen years the combined ice front of all the glaciers exposed to the tide water has increased from 17,000 feet to over 40,000 feet and the amount of recession has in that time alone equalled that of the previous twenty years. To the west of Glacier Bay, Brady Glacier in Taylor Bay has receded considerably. In Lituya Bay, the glacier at the northwestern end of the bay has advanced about one-half mile since 1894; the central and southeastern glaciers have apparently remained unchanged although the latter may have advanced slightly.* *H. F. Reid: "Variation of Glaciers," xii, "Journal of Geology," xvi, pp. 62, 53. {fe!^iiS^a*j Plate V-Mu(r Glacier In) CHAPTER IV. THE GLACIERS OF GBEENLAND. The continental proportions of Greenland, and the ex- tent to which its area is covered by glacial ice, make it by far the most important accessible field for glacial observa- tions. The total area of Greenland can not be less than 500,- 000 square miles — equal in extent to the portion of the United States east of the Mississippi and north of the Ohio. It is now pretty evident that the whole of this area, except a narrow border about the southern end, is covered by one continuous sheet of moving ice, pressing outward on every side toward the open water of the surrounding seas. For a long time it was the belief of many that a large region in the interior of Greenland was free from ice, and was perhaps inhabited. It was in part to solve this problem that Baron Nordenskiold set out upon his expedition of 1883. Ascending the ice-sheet from Disco Eay, in latitude 69°, he proceeded eastward for eighteen days across a con- tinuous ice-field. Rivers were flowing in channels upon the surface lite those cut on land in horizontal strata of shale or sandstone, only that the pure deep blue of the ice-walls were, by comparison, infinitely more beautiful. These rivers were not, however, perfectly continuous. After flowing for a dis- tance in channels on the surface, they, one and all, plunged with deafening roar into some yawning crevasse, to find their way to the sea through subglacial channels. Numerous lakes with shores of ice were also' encountered- |) " On bending down the ear to the ice," says this explbrer, " we could hear on every side a peculiar subterranean hum, Fia. 31— Map of Greenland showing narrow margin free from Ice. THE GLACIERS OF GREENLAND. 77 proceeding from rivers flowing within the ice; and occasion- ally a loud single report like that of a cannon gave notice of the formation of a new glacier-cleft. ... In the afternoon we saw at some distance from us a well-defined pillar of mist which, when we approached it, appeared to rise from a bot- tomless abyss, into which a mighty glacier-river fell. The vast roaring water-mass had bored for itself a vertical hole, probably down to the rock, certainly more than 2,000 feet beneath, on which the glacier rested." * At the end of the eighteen days, Nordenskiold found himself about 150 miles from his starting-point, and about 5,000 feet above the sea. Here the party rested, and sent two Eskimos forward on skidor — a kind of long wooden skate, with which they could move rapidly over the ice, not- withstanding the numerous small circular holes which every- where pitted the surface. These Eskimos were gone fifty- seven hours, having slept only four hours of the period. It is estimated that they made about 75 miles, and attained an altitude of 6,000 feet. The ice is reported as rising in distinct terraces, and as seemingly boundless beyond. If this is the case 225 miles from Disco Bay, there would seem little hope of finding in Greenland an interior freed from ice. So we may pretty confidently speak of that continental body of land as still enveloped in an ice-sheet. Up to about latitude 75°, however, the continent is fringed by a border of islands, over which there is no continuous covering of ice. In south Greenland the continuous ice-sheet is reached about thirty miles back from the shore. In 1886 Dr. Rink wrote: We are now able to demonstrate that a movement of ice from the central regions of Greenland to the coast continually goes on, and must be supposed to act upon the ground over which it is pushed, so as to detach and transport fragments of it for such a distance. . . . The plainest idea of the ice-forma- tion here in question is given by comparing it with an inunda- * " Geological Magazine," vol. is, pp. 393, 399. 78 THE ICE AGE IN NORTH AMERICA. tion. . . . Only the marginal part shows irregularity ; toward the interior the surface grows more and more level, and passes into a plain very slightly rising in the same direction. It has been proved that, ascending its extreme verge, where it has spread like a lava-stream over the lower ground in front of it, the irregularities are chiefly met with up to a height of 3,000 feet, but the distance from the margin in which the height is reached varies much. While under 68^° north latitude, it took twenty-four miles before this elevation was attained ; in 62|° the same height was arrived at in half the distance. . . . A general movement of the whole mass from the central re- gions toward the sea is still continued, but it concentrates its force to comparatively few points in the most extraordinary degree. These points are represented by the ice-fiords, through which the annual surplus ice is carried off in the shape of bergs. ... In Danish Greenland are found five of the first, four of the second, and eight of the third (or least productive) class, besides a number of inlets which only receive insignificant fragments. Direct measurements of the velocity have now been applied on three first-rate and one second-rate fiords, aU situated between 69° and 71° north latitude. The measure- ments have been repeated during the coldest and the warmest season, and connected with surveying and other investigations of the inlets and their environs. It is now proved that the glacier branches which produce the bergs proceed incessantly at a rate of thirty to fifty feet per diem ; this movement being not at all influenced by the seasons. . . . In the ice-fiord of JakobshaVn, which spreads its enormous bergs over Disco Bay, and probably far into the Atlantic, the productive part of the glacier is 4,500 metres (about 2^ miles) broad. The movement along its middle line, which is quicker than on the sides nearer the shores, can be rated at fifty feet per diem. The bulk of ice here annually forced into the sea would, if taken on the shore, make a mountain two miles long, two miles broad, and 1,000 feet high. The ice-fiord of Tor- sukatak receives four or five branches of the glacjer ; the most productive of them is about 9,000 metres (five miles) broad, and moves between sixteen and thirty-two feet per diem. The large Karajak Glacier, about 7,000 metres (four miles) broad. TEE GLACIERS OF GREENLAND. 79 proceeds at a rate of from twenty -two to thirty-eight fefet per diem. Finally, a glacier hranch dipping into the fiord of Jtivdliarsuk, 5,800 metres (three miles) broad, moved between twenty -four and forty-six feet per diem.* Describing the " Isblink," in latitude 62^° north, Eink The whole surveyed area of the inland ice in this place is calculated at 450 square miles, and forms, by means of the tongued shape of its foremost part, in some measure a separate district, in which the principal changes of the whole margin, excepting the ice-fiords, are represented. Toward the interior it is bordered by a row of nunataks,\ distant about forty miles from the seaward edge which our travelers had ascended as their starting-point. Here the origin of the ice over which they had passed was at once plainly visible ; namely, that it could not have been formed on the spot, but was brought thither from the interior of the continent. The nunataks had been an obstacle to this movement ; on the east side, fac- ing the interior, the ice was broken and piled up several hun- dred feet against the rock, like breakers of an ocean, while to the south and north, and between the nunataks, it poured down like frozen waterfalls to be embodied in and leveled with the crust over which our explorers had traveled. . . . The recent explorations, as already mentioned, have proved that what now we designate as coast-land free from ice was for- merly covered with ice like the interior. This ancient ice-cov- ering reached, in the immediate vicinity of the present inland ice, a height of 3,000 to 4,000 feet, and, farther seaward, 2,000 to 3,000 feet above the sea. All the usual traces of ancient ice-action, the erratic blocks and the ground rocks, are the same here as in northern Europe. * See " Transactions of the Edinburgh Geological Society " for February 18, 1886, vol. V, part ii, pp. 286-293. f Nwnataks are simpjy mountain-topa projecting above the surface of the ice-fields, such as were described in the account of the Muir Glacier in Alaska. Nordenskiold was the first to describe them in Greenland, and gave them this 80 THE lOE AGE IN NORTH AMERICA. Eink supposes the opening of new channels for the outlet of the ice through the fiords naay have so relieved the interior as to account for this recedence of the ice.* Among the most important observations upon the rate of movement in the glaciers in Greenland are those made by the Norwegian geologist Helland, in the summer of 1875. During that season he made a series of measurements on the glacier that enters the great Jakobshavn Fiord in the north- ern part of Disco Bay, about latitude 70°. The width of this glacier near its mouth he found to be about two miles and a half. The view from the peaks in the vicinity toward the east extended to a continuous ice-field on the distant horizon. The rate of motion reported by Helland was so great, that scientific men hesitated for some time to credit it. According to his measurements, the Jakobshavn Glacier, in the central portion of its current, was moving more than sixty feet per day, as compared vnth the three feet per day reported for Alpine glaciers. But the subsequent measure- ments of Steenstrup, given above, and those of my own upon the Muir Glacier in Alaska (made in 1886), amply sustain the conclusions of Helland. It is proper to observe here, again, that the movement of glacial ice is affected much less by the slope of its bottom than by the size of the stream itself. The friction of the ice upon the bottom and sides of its channel is so great, that, where the stream is both shallow and narrow, the motion must be almost completely retarded. On doubling the size * The list of explorers Riven by Rink is worthy of being honored, and is as follows : " Geologist K. J. V. Steenstrup (eight summers and two winters) ; Lieutenant G. Holm, of the Royal Navy (five summers and one winter) ; Lieu- tenant R. Hammer, of the Royal Navy (three summers and one winter) ; Lieuten- ant A. D. Jensen, of the Royal Navy (three summers) ; geologist Sylow (two summers) ; painter Groth (two summers) ; supernumerary officer Larsen (one summer) ; Lieutenant Garde, of the Royal Navy (two summers and one winter) ; geologist Knutsen, Norwegian (two summers and one winter) ; geologist Peter- sen (one summer) ; botanist Eberlin (two summers and one winter) ; painter Rus Carstersen (one summer). Steenstrup and Hammer did most on the fiords." THE GLACIERS OP GREENLAND. 81 of a semi-fluid stream, tlie relative amount of friction be- comes very much less, so that it will move more than twice Fig. 32,— Map of Frederikphaab rilacier, between 65" and 63°. showing course of Lienten- ant Jensen in 1878 (forty-seven and a half miles). The black part, ice ; white, land ; .shaded, water ; J. N., Jensen's nnnataks : D. N., Dola^er's nnnataks : white lines on the black, crevasses ; arrows, frlacier-flow. Five species of plants were found on the nnnataks which still survive on the White Mountains (N, H.). Dana, as fast as before. This property of a semi-fluid is made suf- ficiently evident from a homely illustration. Molasses in cold weather will scarcely run at all through a gimlet-hole, while it will run with considerable freedom through an auger-hole. IS^ow, the glaciers of the Alps, which were the subjects of Professor Tyndall's measurements, were, in com- parison to those in Greenland and Alaska, about in the pro- portion of a small gimlet-hole to a large auger-hole, and the faster motion is really not surprising. 82 THE IGE AGE IN NORTH AMEBIC A. Helland's observations as to the amount of ice floatiBg away from the glacier in bergs amply coniirm the direct cal- culation. The depth of the Jakobshavn Fiord is about 1,200 feet, so that icebergs cf vast size can float off upon its waters. The daily discharge of ice through this fiord was estimated by him to be 432,000,000 cubic feet — about three times the calculation I have made for the Muir Glacier in Alaska. In addition to the formation of large icebergs, the discharge of ice from such a glacier as that at Jakobshavn is doubtless accompanied by a continual cannonade of countless smaller fragments, keeping the heavens full of thundering sounds and the waters fuU of commotion. From this it fol- lows that the movement of the great glaciers must be rapid, to account for the enormous numbers of first-class icebergs wliich are encountered in the vicinity, and for the numerous and immense ice-floes composed of smaller fragments. While the attention is flxed on the movement of the gla- ciers, we should not fail to note the uniform presence of subglaeial streams of water emerging from their fronts. Such streams are usually in proportion to the size of the gla- cier, and, as already remarked, are most powerful agencies in the transportation of earthy material. The amount of sedi- ment thus brought out by a single subglaeial stream on the west coast of Greenland is estimated to be from 15,000 to 20,000 tons daily ; and the amount of water discharged in the stream is far larger than that which passes off as ice. The existence of such subglaeial streams reveals much concerning the condition of the glaciers themselves. The question at once arises, Whence does the water come ? The answer is found in the facts already mentioned by Norden- skiold concerning the superficial streams of water uniformly encountered on penetrating the glaciated interior of Green- land. Doubtless, also, much water arises from the melting of the lower strata of ice through the heat produced by the friction attendant upon the motion. Mr. Whymper's descriptions add vividness to our knowl- edge of the Greenland Glacier in the latitude of Disco : THE GLACIERS OF GREENLAND. 83 In a paper coiiimunicatecl to the "Alpine Journal" in 1870, I wrote in relation to this part of Greenland and the countrj' to its north and south: The great ice-covered interior plateau of Greenland can be seen a long way off if the weather is clear. Its summit is Fig. 33. — Ikamiut Fjord, Grcenlaml, showing liiirif^iiig the Fjord come to enter's edge. ?lacler-> Gliu-ier.s a I. lirad of almost a dead level from north to south. But when one comes nearer to the coast it is concealed by the hills which are on its outskirts. The whole of the (outer) land on the (west) Greenland coast is mountainous, and although the hills scarcely ever, if ever, exceed a height of 8000 or 9000 feet, they effectually conceal the inner or glacier-covered land. This latter is at a distance from the coast varying from ten to sixty, or more miles, and, when it is reached, there is an end to land — all is ice, as far as the eye can see. Great as the mass of ice is which still envelops Greenland, there were times when the land was even more completely cov- ered up by it; indeed, there is good reason to suppose that there was a time when every atom of the country was co^'ered, and that life was hardly possible for man. . . . With the exception of places where the rocks are easy of disintegra- 84 THE ICE AGE IN NORTH AMERICA. tion, and the traces of glacier actioD have been to a great ex- tent destroyed, the whole country bears the marks of the grind- ing and polishing of ice ; and, judging by the flatnesS of the curTes of the roches moutonnees, and by the perfection of the polish which still remains upon the rocks, after they have sus- tained many centuries of extreme variations of temperature, the Glacial- period during which such efEects were produced must have vastly exceeded in duration, or severity, the Glacial period of Europe ; and the existing great interior ice-plateau of Greenland, enormous as it is, must be considered as but the remnant of a mass which was -incalculably greater, and to which there is no parallel at the present time, excepting within the Antarctic Circle. And later on, in my book, "Scrambles among the Alps," 1871, pages 246, 247 : ' The interior of Greenland appears to be absolutely covered by a glacier between 68° 30-70° north latitude. ... On two occasions, in 1867, I saw, at a glance, at least 6,000 square miles of it from the summits of small mountains on its out- skirts. Hot a single peak or ridge was to be seen rising above, nor a single rock reposing upon the ice. The country was completely covered up by glaciers ; all was ice, as far as the eye could see. . . . This vast ice-plateau, although smaller than it was in former times, is still so extensive that the whole of the glaciers of the Alps might be merged into it without its bulk being perceptibly increased. In 1872 I again traveled in northwestern Greenland, and by ascending various lofty mountains saw more of the " inland ice"; and in the "Alpine Journal" for 1873, page 220, I wrote : From all the principal summits you perceive the vast gla- cier-clad interior of the country, stretching from north to south in an unbroken line, with a crest as straight as a sea- horizon. There are no marks upon it which enable one to cal- culate bhe altitude to which it rises, or the distance to which it extends. But having now seen it from several elevated and widely separated positions, as I find that its summit-line always appears lofty, even from the highest mountains which I have ascended, my impression is that its height is generally not less THE GLACIERS OF GREENLAND. 85 than 8,000 feeft, and in some places, perhaps, surpasses 10,000 feet. ... On ascending hills on the outskirts I again had extiensive views to the east, finding the land, as before, absolutely cov- ered by glaciers. From the nearest parts to the farthest dis- tance that could be seen, the whole of the ice was broken up into seracs. It was almost everywhere riven and fissured in a most extreme manner, and it was obviously totally impracti- cable for sledges. . . . From the repeated views of the interior which had been seen from the coast mountains, it was clear that all this part of Greenland, except the fringe of land on the Davis Strait side, was absolutely covered by snow and ice, and that the in- terior was not broken up in those latitudes as I had conjectured it might be. . . . This vast glacier is the largest continuous mass of ice at present known. All the glaciers of the Alps combined are as nothing to it, and the greatest of those in the Himalayas are mere dwarfs in comparison. At Jakobshavn the bergs floating away were often from 700 to 800 feet thick, and this is the only information at present possessed of its depth. The angle at which its surface rises toward the east is very slight, being seldom so much as 8°, and generally much less ; while in some places there are considerable depressions, and lakes are formed in consequence. . . . Mount Kelertingonit was 6,800 feet high, and there was a grand and most interesting view from its summit in all direc- tions. Southward it commanded the whole breadth of the Noursoak Peninsula, and extended over the Waigat Strait to the lofty island of Disco ; westward it embraced the western part of the Noursoak Peninsula, with Davis Strait beyond ; northward it passed right over the TJmenak Fiord (some thirty miles wide) to the Black Hook Peninsula ; to the northeast it was occupied by the fiord, with its many imposing islands and islets, surrounded by innumerable icebergs streaming away from the inland ice ; and in the east, extending from north- east to southeast, over well-nigh 90° of the horizon, there was the inland ice itself — presenting the characteristic features ■which have been mentioned in the earlier papers. The south- 86 THE ICE AGE IN NOETH AMERICA. ern part of the view of the inland ice, as seen from Kelertin- gouit, OTerlapped the northern part of it as seen on former occasions, while northward it extended to at least 71" 15' north latitude, so I had now viewed the section of the interior be- tween 68° 30' and 71° 15', equal to 190 English miles, and had everywhere found a straight, unbroken crest of snow-covered ice, concealing the land so absolutely that not a single crag appeared above its surface. The height of this straight, unbroken crest of snow was now the object of attention — the principal object for which the ascent was made. On bringing the theodolite to bear upon it, I found that it appeared to be slightly depressed below my station ; but, as it was distant more than one hundred miles, it was only lower in appearance and not in reality. On the assumption that it was no more than one hundred miles dis- tant, after making allowance for the refraction and curvature of the earth, its height was found to be considerably in excess often thousand feet* Northward from this point explorations have been carried on incessantlj"- since the middle of the last century begin- ning with the expeditions of Drs. Kane and Hayes between the years 1855 and 1862. These remarkable men were associated from 1853 to 1855, in the second Grinnell Expe- dition in search of Sir John Franklin, which succeeded in exploring the coast on the east side of Smith Sound from Cape Alexander, in latitude 78°, to Washington Land, in latitude 80°; while in 1861 and 1862 Dr. Hayes conducted an independent expedition to Lady Franklin Bay, in lati- tude 82°, and resurveyed portions of his former field. In the neighborhood of Cape Dudley Digges, about lati- tude 76°, Dr. Kane's party encountered a glacier which he describes as follows: This glacier was about seven miles across at its "de- bouche" ; it sloped gradually upward for some five miles back. *" Explorations in Greenland," "Clioioe Literature," 1884, pp. 170, 808. THS GLACIERS OF GREENLAND. 87 and then, following the irregularities of its rocky substructure, suddenly became a steep crevassed hill, ascending in abrupt terraces. Then came two intervals of less rugged ice, from which the glacier passed into the great mer de glace. On ascending a high, craggy hill to the northward, I had a sublime prospect of this great frozen ocean, which seems to form the continental axis of Greenland — a vast, undulating plain of purple-tinted ice, studded with islands, and absolutely gemming the horizon with the varied glitter of sun-tipped crystal. The discharge of water from the lower surface of the gla- cier exceeded that of any of the northern glaciers except that of Humboldt and the one near Etah. One torrent on the side nearest me overran the ice-foot from two to five feet in depth, and spread itself upon the floes for several hundred yards ; and another, finding its outlet near the summit of the glacier, broke over the rocks and poured in cataracts upon the beach below.* Between "Wolstenholme Sound and Murchison Strait, about latitude 76° 60', Tyndall Glacier comes down to the sea in a broad current ten or twelve nailes in width ; while twenty or twenty-five miles to the north, on Northumberland Island, a curious glacier is described by Kane, which he calls a " hanging glacier," and named after his brother John. " It seemed," he says, " as if a caldron of ice inside the coast-ridge was boiling over, and throwing its crust in huge fragments from the overhanging lip into the sea below. The glacier must have been eleven hundred feet high ; but even at its summit we could see the lines of viscous movement." f Upon another point in this island a glacier was encount- ered which affords Dr. Kane opportunity to remark upon some points not often noticed. The party had encamped on a low beach at the foot of a moraine which came down be- tween precipitous cliffs of surpassing wildness. While there, he says : * "Arctic Explorations in the Years 1853, 1854, 1855," vol. ii, pp. 270-272. \ Ibid., pp. 259, 260. 88 THE ICE AGE m NORTH AMEEICA. I was greatly interested by a glacier that occupied the head of the moraine. It came down abruptly from the central pla- teau of the island, with an angle of descent of more than sev- enty degrees. I have never seen one that illustrated more beautifully the viscous or semi-solid movement of these masses. Like a well-known glacier of the Alps, it had two planes of descent : the upper nearly precipitous for about four hundred feet from the summit ; the lower of about the same height, but with an angle of some fifty degrees ; the two communicating by a slightly inclined platform perhaps half a mile long. This ice was unbroken through its entire extent. It came down from the level of the upper country, a vast icicle, with the folds or waves impressed upon it by its onward motion undisturbed by any apparent fracture or crevasse. Thus it rolled onward over the rugged and contracting platform below, and thence poured its semi-solid mass down upon the plain. Where it encount- ered occasional knobs of rock it passed round them, bearing still the distinctive marks of an imperfect fluid obstructed in its descent ; and its lower fall described a dome, or, to use the more accurate simile of Forbes, a great outspread clam- shell of ice. It seemed as if an interior ice-lake was rising above the brink of the cliffs that confined it. In many places it could be seen exuding or forcing its way over the very crest of the rocks, and hanging down in huge icy stalactites seventy and one hundred feet long. These were still lengthening out by the continuous overflow, some of them breaking off as their weight became too great for their tenacity, others swelling by constant supplies from the interior, but spitting off fragment- ary masses with an unremitting clamor. The plain below these cataractine glaciers was piling up with the debris, while torrents of the melted rubbish found their way, foaming and muddy, to the sea, carrying gravel and rocks along with them. These ice-cascades, as we called them, kept up their din the whole night, sometimes startling us with a heavy booming sound, as the larger masses fell, but more generally rattling away like the random fires of a militia parade. On examining the ice of which they were made up, I found grains of neve larger than a walnut ; so large, indeed, that it was hard to re- TEE OLACTERS OF GEEENLAITD. 89 alize that they could be formed by the ordinary granulating processes of the winter snows. My impression is, that the sur- face of the plateau-ice, the mer de glace of the island, is made up of these agglomerated nodules, and that they are forced out and discarded by the advance of the more compact ice from higher levels.* The winter of 1853 and 1854 was spent by Dr. Kane in Van Rensselaer Harbor, in latitude 78° 60'. From this point Dr. Hayes and a small party were sent inland for the purpose of securing, if possible, some game to eke out their ship-sup- plies of food. They reported that, " after penetrating the interior about ninety miles, their progress was arrested by a glacier four hundred feet high, and extending to the north and west as far as the eye could reach." On his second ex- pedition, in 1860, Dr. Hayes penetrated this same region again, starting from Port Foulke, about twenty miles to the southwest — venturing, this time, some distance out on the surface of the glacier. The following is his own vivid de- scription of the ice-field, beginning ivith the narrative of his first expedition. At length we emerged upon a broad plain or valley, wider than any we had yet seen, in the heart of which reposed a lake about two miles in length by half a mile in width, over the transparent, glassy surface of which we walked. On either side of us rose rugged bluffs, that stretched off into long lines of hills, culminating in series in a broad-topped mountain- ridge, which, running away to right and left, was cut by a gap several miles wide that opened directly before us.. Immediately in front was a low hill, around the base of which flowed upon either side the branches of the stream which we had followed. Leaving the bed of the river just above the lake, we ascended to the top of this hillock ; and here a sight hurst upon us, grand and imposing beyond any power of mine adequately to describe. From the rocky bed, only a few miles in advance, a sloping wall of pure whiteness rose to a broad level plain of ice * " Arctic Explorations," vol. i, pp. 334-336, 90 THE IG.E AGE J-tf NORTH AMERICA. which, apparently boundless, stretched away toward the un- known east. It was the great iner de glace of the Ai'ctic Con- tinent. At any subsequent period of the cruise this sight would have less impressed me ; but I had never, except in the dis- tance, seen a glacier. Here before us was, in reality, the counterpart of the river-system of other lands. From behind the granite hills the congealed drainings of the interior water- sheds, the atmospheric precipitations of ages, were moving as a solid though plastic mass, down through every gap in the mountains, swallowing up the rocks, filling the valleys, sub- merging the hills — an onward, irresistible, crystal tide, swell- ing to the ocean. Cutting the surface were many vertical crevasses, or gutters, some of great depth, which had drained off the melted snow. It was midnight when we made our approach. The sun was several degrees beneath the horizon, and afforded us a faint twilight. Stars of the second magnitude were dimly visi- ble in the northern heavens. When we were within about half a mile of the icy wall, a brilliant meteor fell before us, and, by its reflection upon the glassy surface beneath, greatly heightened the effect of the scene ; while loud reports, like distant thunder or the booming of artillery, broke at intervals from the heart of the frozen sea. Upon close inspection we found the face of the glacier to ascend at an angle of from thirty to thirty-five degrees. At its base lay a high snow-bank, up which we clambered about sixty feet ; but beyond this the ice was so smooth as to defy our efforts. The mountains, which stood like giant gate-posts on either side, were overlapped and partially submerged by the glacier. From the face of this a multitude of little rivulets ran down the gutters already mentioned, or gurgled from be- neath the ice, and formed, on the level lands below, a sort of marsh, not twenty yards from the icy wall. Here grew, in strange contrast, beds of green moss ; and in these, tufts of dwarf willows were twining their tiny arms and rootlets about the feebler flower-growths : and there, clustered together, crouched among the grass, aijd sheltered by the leaves, and feeding on the bed of lichens, I found a white-blossomed draba THE QLAGIERS OF GREENLAND. 91 which would have needed only a lady's thimble for a flower- pot, and a white chickweed. Dotting the few feet of green around me were seen the yellow blossoms of the more hardy poppy, the purple potentilla, and the white, purple, and yellow saxifrages. This little oasis was literally imbedded in ice. The water which had flowed through it had frozen in the holes, and spread itself out in a crystal sheet upon the rocks and stones around. A few specimens of the tiny blossoms were laid in my note-book, a sprig of heather and a saxifrage were stuck in my button-hole, and with these souvenirs we left this garden- spot which the glacier was soon to cover forever from human eyes. . . . In the autumn of 1860 I was favored with an opportunity to make a more important exploration of this great mer de glace, having from my winter harbor at Port Foulke ascer- tained that it had broken through the mountain-chain at the head of the bay in which my harbor was situated, and was there approaching the sea. Up this glacier, which had thus forced the rocky ramparts, I made my way with a small party of men, attaining an altitude of about 5,000 feet, and extend- ing my observations seventy miles from the coast. The jour- ney possessed the more value that it was entirely novel as re- gards the interior of Greenland. I was finally driven back by a severe gale of wind, which, being accompanied by a sudden fall of temperature, placed my party, for the time, in great jeopardy, as my tent afforded no shelter ; but I had gone far enough to determine, with some degree of accuracy, the char- acter of the interior ; and the information thus acquired, in connection with my journey with Mr. Wilson in 1853, as just related furnishes an important addition to our knowledge of the great glacier system of the Greenland Continent. Bast- ward from the position attained on both of these journeys no mountains were visible — nothing but a uniform inclined plane of whiteness, a solid sea of ice, hundreds and hundreds of feet in depth, steadily rising until lost in the distance against the sky. A full description of the journey of 1860 has been pub- lished in my "Open Polar Sea." This vast body of ice, now known as Humboldt Glacier, is 92 THE ICE AGE IN NORTH AMERICA. the largest glacier known, being about sixty miles across, and through at least one half of that extent discharging icebergs. Like the glacier already spoken of as having broken through the mountains near Port Foulke, this Humboldt Glacier has overcome the mountain-barriers, and poured down into the sea between Greenland and Washington Land, which latter is probably an island, lying in the expansion of Smith Sound (or Strait, as named by Dr. Kane), the water flowing to the eastward of Washington Land being now entirely replaced by the glacier. Prom Humboldt Glacier the face of the mer de glace sweeps around behind the mountain-chain in a curve toward Port Foulke. At the point reached by Mr. Wilson and myself, the ice was breaking through the mountains, nearly midway between these two extremes of the curve, and •will, at some remote period, find its way into Smith Sound through the tortuous valley which now forms the bed of Mary Miuturn Eiver. South of Port Foulke the face of the mer de glace forms a series of similar curves of greater or less extent, and through all the great valleys of the Greenland coast-range, glaciers discharge into Baffin Bay their streams of icebergs. Several of these glaciers are from five to twenty miles across, and those of Melville Bay are doubtless much more exten- sive;* This great Humboldt Glacier enters Peabody Bay from the east, filling the whole space from latitude 79° to 80°. There is, however, a vast movement of glacier-ice toward this point from the southeast. The face of the Humboldt Olacier is described by Dr. Kane as everywhere, for a