GETABL AND HR CULTIVATION 1 .,.■» Cornell TUniversit^ Xtbrar? OF THE IRew Iflorfc State College of agriculture - 3778 Cornell University Library SB 322.S21 1910 Vegetables and their cultivation; an up-t 3 1924 003 307 026 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. ?E£ Printed by W. H. & I v . Collingridce, 148 & 149, Aldersgate Street, London, e.c. .. VEGETABLE PESTS. 2. Crane Fly and Leather Jacket Grub. 4 Thrips and Larva. VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. An Up-to-Date, Practical and Scientific Treatise on the History, Cultivation, and Forcing of Culinary Vegetables, Saladings, and Herbs, for Home Use and Exhibition ; also the Formation of the Vegetable Garden ; the Management of Soils ; Manures and their Uses ; and the Eradication of Injurious Insect and Fungoid Pests, etc. BY T. W. SANDERS, F.L.S., F.R.H.S., Knight of First Class of the Royal Order of Wasa, Sweden ; Editor of " Amateur Gardening," *' Farm 'and Garden," and " Vegetables for Profit"; Author of "The Amateur's Greenhouse," "An Encyclopaedia o. Gardening," "Roses and their Cultivation," *' Alphabet of Gardening," "Bulbs and their Cultivation," " Flower Garden," etc. ILLUSTRATED. Second Edition. LONDON; W. H. & L. COLLINGRIDGE, 148 & 149, Aldersgate Street, E.C. a$» ^ age otic *&*& FOREWORDS The cultivation of vegetables is, next to that of fruit, one of the oldest phases of the gardening art and craft. The reader has only to refer to the brief historical sketch given in connection with each of the numerous, vegetables described in the follow- ing pages, to verify this statement. He will find there that many of the vegetables which are still extensively grown in British gardens, were known to, and grown by, the ancient Egyptians, Romans, and Greeks, to a very large extent, as articles of food and physic. The ancient Romans were certainly adepts in vegetable culture, not only in season, but also out of season, since they well understood the art of forcing, for it is recorded that the Emperor Tiberius had cucumbers produced by artificial heat. To the Romans, no doubt, we owe, in a large measure, the introduction, after their conquest of Britain, of many vege- tables and methods of cultivation which formed the foundation of our modern practice. Concurrently with the introduction of Christianity, and the establishment of monasteries, fruit and vegetable cultivation began in earnest. The monks were keen gardeners, and doubtless grew both vegetables and fruit extensively and suc- cessfully. The first record we have of any published work refer- ring to vegetables, appears in the " Synopsis Herbaria," written by one Henry Calcoensis. a prior of the Benedictine Order. This worthy travelled extensively on the Continent to observe and glean what information he could on vegetables and their culture. The date of this work is a.d. 1493. In another work, FOREWORDS. v entitled " Arnolde's Chronicle," published in 1521, the author professes to tell his readers how to rear a salad in an hour. It is, however, to Thomas Tusser, the author of the " Five Hundred Points of Good Husbandry," published in 1561, that we owe the opportunity of an insight into the kinds of vege- tables grown in England in earlier daj's. Many of his quaint references are reproduced further on in the book. Later in the century, John Gerard, or Gerarde, published his famous " Herbal," which contains elaborate references to herbs used as food and medicine. Then, in 1G29, appeared Parkinson's " Paradisi in sole Paradisus terestris," a reprint of which delightful work has recently been published by Messrs. Methuen and Co. Under the title of " The Ordering of the Kitchen Garden," he gives many quaint instructions on the proper cultivation in his day, of vegetables and herbs. The first work solely devoted to vegetable culture was, so far as we can verify, " The Practical Kitchen Gardener," by Switzer, published in 1727. Here full details how to lay out a kitchen garden, grow vegetables outdoors and on hotbeds are given. From then onwards many books and pamphlets have been written, down to the present work. So much by the way. We have briefly sketched the pro- gress of literature devoted to vegetables and their cultivation up to the present day. It is our business now to justify our reasons for placing another volume on the subject in the market. There are, we admit, many excellent books on vegetable culture in existence, but, to our mind, they all fall short of fulness of information on all branches of the subject. Having had to cater for the requirements of amateur gardeners for over seventeen years, and being, therefore, cognizant of their requirements; also, in addition, having had a long practical experience as a gardener, and consequently well acquainted with the needs of the professional gardener — especially the probationer — we came to the conclusion that an up-to-date work, written in simple language, and giving a very wide range of information, was badly needed — henco the present volume. vi FOREWORDS. In preparing the work we Lave endeavoured to cater for all requirements, and especially to give such information as would be useful and interesting to the student, as well as the practical grower. Thus, we have given the botanical name and family of each vegetable, its foreign names, and a brief resume of its history. Then, in the practical departments, we have dealt fully with laying out a vegetable garden ; cropping ; general manage- ment ; pests and diseases ; soils and manures ; friends of the gardener; and finally have described with sufficient fulness the culture of herbs and vegetables generally grown in British gardens. Finally, we hope the student, the probationer, and profes- sional gardener, as well as the amateur gardener, including the allotment holder, will find the volume as useful and as interesting to him, as the heavy labour involved in its pre- paration has been a pleasure and a work of love to ourselves. Although every care has been bestowed on its preparation, and in passing it through the press, a few errors may have unavoidably crept in, but, in the event of any being discovered, we shall only be too grateful to the reader if he will point them out. It will, perhaps, not be out of place to mention here that, in case any of our readers should be desiring information on vegetable cultivation for market, they will find very full and up-to-date details thereon in our four Handbooks, " Vege- tables for Profit," issued by the Publishers of the present work. ' T. W. S. In issuing a Second Edition we have embraced the opportunity of revising the text where necessary, and of generally bringing the information up to date At the same time we have added a short chapter on Intensive or French Gardening. We desire also to heartily thank those readers who have been good enough to point out any errors they have discovered. London, 1910. T. W. S. CONTENTS. The Vegetable Garden — Site, Shelter, Shape, One-Acre Garden, Half-Acre Garden, Quarter-Acre Garden, Drainage, Paths, Edgings, Walls and Fences ... 1 to 15 Soils — Clayey, Loamy, Sandy, Old Garden and Peaty Soils, Colour of Soils, Testing Soils, Claying, Burning and Chalking Soils, Trenching, Ridging, and Digging Soils, and Nitrification of Soils Ill to 25 Manures — Constituents of Plants, Basic Slag, Blood, Bone Meal, Composts, Cow, Horse, Sheep, Pig and Poultry Manures, Dissolved Bones, Dried Blood, Farmyard Manure, Gas-lime, Green Manure, Guano, Gypsum, Leather Parings, Kainit, Lime, Liquid Manures, Muriate of Potash, Night Soil, Nitrate of Potash, Nitrate of Soda, Peat Moss Litter Manure, Salt, Saw- dust, Seaweed, Sewage Silicate of Potash, Sulphate of Ammonia, Sulphate of Ir on, Sulphate of Potash, Soot, Superphosphate, Urine, Woodashes, Mixing and Appli- cation of Manures ... ... ... ... ... ... 26 to 44 Cropfinu a Garden' — Three and Four Course Systems, Catch Crops, Successional Crops, Points to Remember... 45 to 48 Miscellaneous Items — Planting, Watering, Mulching, Seed V I Sowing, Longevity of Seeds, Seedlings, Thinning Out, \Seed Saving, Bolting, Tools, Seed Store, Preparing Vegetables for Exhibition, Staging Exhibit!, Number of Vegetables to Exhibit, Protecting Crops, Packing Vegetables, Retarding Vegetables... ... 45 to 05 Pests and Diseases — (Pests) Aphides, Asparagus Beetle, Beet Carrion Beetle, Beet or Mangold Fly, Birds, Blue Cabbage Flea, Cabbage Aphis, Cabbage Fly, Cabbage Butterflies, Cabbage Powdered-wing Fly, Cabbage Moth, Carrot Fly, Carrot Seed Moth, Celery Fly, Celery Stem Fly, Cockchafer Beetle, Crickets, Dart Moth, Diamond-back Moth, Eel worms, Garden Pebble Moth, Ghost or Otter Moth, Heart and Dart Moth, Leather Jacket, Lettuce Fly, Lettuce Root Fly, Mice, Millepedes, Mushroom Pest, Onion Fly, Pea and Bean Thrips, Pea Midge, Pea Moth, Pea Seed Weevil, Pea Weevils, Pot-Herb Moth, Red Spider, Radish Fly, Rabbits and Hares, St. Mark's Fly, Slugs and Snails, Snowy Fly, Thrips, Tiger Moth, Turnip Fly, Turnip Gall Weevil, Turnip-leaf Miners, Turnip Saw Fly, Wasps, Woodlice, Wire Worms, Yellow Under-wing Moth ; (Diseases) American Potato Scab, Artichoke viii CONTENTS. Leaf Spot, Asparagus Rust, Bacterial Disease in Tomatoes, Bacteriosis in Potatoes, Beet Rust, Brown Stripe of Tomatoes, Black Rot of Cabbage, Black Scab on Potatoes, Canker and B,ot, Carrot Disease, Celery Leaf Blight, Club Root, Cucumber and Melon Mildew, Cucumber Leaf Blotch, Cucumber Rot, Lettuce Mildew, Mint Rust, Mushroom Disease, Onion Mildew, Onion Scab, Onion Sclerotinia, Onion Smut, Parsnip Mildew, Pea Mildew, Potato Disease, Potato Scab, Radish Mildew, Sclerotium Disease of Potatoes, Seedling Cabbage Disease, Seedling Pea Blight, Sleeping Disease of Tomatoes, Spinach Mould, Tomato Black Spot, Turnip Bacterial Disease, White Rust, Yellow Spot Tomato Disease ... ... ... ... ... ... 66 to 1 1 8 Popular Vegetables— American Cress, Angelica, Aniseed, Asparagus, Balm, Basil, Beet, Borage, Borecole, Broad Bean, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Capsicum or Chili, Cardoon, Caraway, Carrot, Cauliflower, Celeriac, Celery, Chamomile, Chervil, Chinese Artichoke, Corn Salad, Chives, Clary, Coriander, Couve Tronchuda, Cucumber, Dandelion, Dill, Egg Plant, Endive, Fennel, Garlick, Globe Artichoke, Good King Henrj', Gourds or Pumpkins, Hop, Horehound, Horse-radish, Hyslop, Indian Corn, Jerusalem Artichoke, Kidney Bean, Kohl-rabi, Leek, Lettuce, Margoram, Mint, Mushroom, Mustard and Cress, Nasturtiums, New Zealand Spinach, Onions, Orache, Parsley, Parsnip, Parsnip-rooted Chervil, Pea, Potato, Pot Marigold, Purslane, Quinoa, Radish, Rampion, Rhubarb, Rocam- bole, Rosemary, Runner Bean, Rue, Sage, Salsify, Savoy, Scorzonera, Seakale, Shallot, Skirret, Sorrel, Spinach, Tansy, Tarragon, Thyme, Tomato, Tropreolum, Turnips, Vegetable Marrow, and Water- cress 119 to 397 Select List of Vegetables 39Sto419 Table of Sowing, Planting, Etc 420 to 423 Some Garden Friends— Birds, Devil's Coach Horse Beetle, Earthworms, Frogs and Toads, Garden Spider, Hawk Flies, Ichneumon Fly, Lace-wing Fly, Ladybird Beetles, Testacella Slug, Tiger Beetle, Violet Ground Beetle 424 to 432 Year's Work in the Vegetable Garden... 433 to 463 French Gardening. - Introductory Notes. — Appliances, etc. — The Hotbeds. — The Crops 461 to 473 Index 474 to 498 jfr^r o|b <&> d|» (4» ^*r T*r *t*r -t*r -t*r tsitr Vegetables and their Cultivation. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Before the practical suggestions given further on in this work in regard to the culture of the various crops can be carried out, it is imperative that a suitable site should be selected, and the same be laid out to meet the requirements of a vegetable garden. We shall therefore devote the open- ing chapter of this book to the subject of the formation of a vegetable garden. It will be observed that we use the term vegetable garden instead of the older one, kitchen garden. We do so because in this work we deal with vegetable culture only, and it seemed to us a more appropriate term to use. Strictly speaking, the department of a modern garden set apart for vegetable culture might more appropriately be termed the " utility garden," since it is generally utilised for growing fruit and flowers for cutting, as well as vegetables ; in other words, it is a department of a garden devoted to crops grown for their utilitarian value rather than for ornament. In olden days the kitchen garden was the most important department of the garden, and large sums were spent in its construction. The garden was bounded by substantially- built lofty walls, costing a small fortune to erect. Now-a-dajs, this department of a garden is a much simpler and less expensive 2 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. affair, except in eases where choice fruits, such as peaches, apricots, etc., are required to b3 grown, and then expensive walls have to be built, though these are not so costly as thoy formerly were. The average modern vegetable garden that we shall deal with in this work varies from an acre to a few square rods in area. Those of an acre, half acre, or quarter of an acre in extent, may be surrounded by ordinary garden walls, fences, or hedges ; while smaller sizes may be oblong strips, termed allotments, in the open field, or merely the opposite end of an ordinary villa garden, or the outer fringe of a country cottage garden. Ordinary vegetables may be grown just as well in the open field ; in fact, often better than in a confined garden ; but if early and late vegetables are required, then the shelter of a wall, fence, or good hedge is indispensable. Although we shall in this chapter lay down certain rules and conditions re- garding the proper formation of a vegetable garden, the reader must not imbue himself with the idea that he cannot grow good crops of vegetables in any available plot of ground. He has only two things to bear in mind — shelter from cold winds and full exposure to sunshine. If he tries to grow vegetables in a garden overshadowed by the branches and overrun by the roots of trees, he will surely meet with failure. Site. — The ideal site for a vegetable garden is one which is fairly elevated, and has a gentle slope from north to south, or slightly north-west to south-east. Sites sloping south to north or west to east, or such as are low-lying, should be avoided. In the first place, the aspect would be too cold for early crops, and in the second, the crops would be subject to frosts. A perfectly flat site, so long as it is above the frost Hue, is good. Of course, in selecting the site, some regard should also be paid to the nature of the soil and subsoil. However, since, as ex- plained in the chapter on soils, it is easy to improve the soil, it is better to study the site and aspect primarily. In choosing a site on sloping land endeavour to avoid a greater declivity than one foot in forty-five. Shelter. — This is of great importance. If the garden is to be walled in, the wall at the north end should be twelve to THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. 3 fourteen feet high. In the absence of a wall, trees should be planted on the north and north-east sides to keep oft' the cold winds. If fences or hedges are used, these too should be higher at the north or north-east sides than elsewhere. In walling-in a garden to grow choice fruits as well as vegetables the usual practice is to build the north wall twelve to fourteen feet, the east and west walls ten feet, and the south wall not more than six feet. Thus the north wall, or wall at the north end, would on the garden side face south, and be suitable for erect- ing glasshouses against, or growing peach and other fruit trees ; the one on the east side would face west, and be suitable for choice cherries, plums, and pears ; while the south wall, facing north, being low, could be utilised for cordon currants. If the back of the tall north wall be not shaded by trees, this, facing north, could be utilised for growing Morello cherries. Shape. — We give three plans showing how to lay out a garden of one acre, half an acre, and a quarter of an acre, these being the average sizes of vegetable gardens for large and small villas. Each is arranged in the form of a parallelo- gram, this being the best shape for a vegetable garden. If the area to be converted into a vegetable garden be of a square shape, there is no serious objection to this form. One-Acre Garden. — This plan (Fig. 1) is prepared to suit a plot measuring 180 feet in width, and 242 feet in length, and has its length from north to south, and width from west to east. At A is the entrance ; B is the main path or road, nine feet wide, to admit a cart being drawn through for conveying manure. C is a path three feet wide. At D is shown space for greenhouses, and at E for frames. F indicates site for tool and storage sheds, and G, a water tank. At H the dotted lines indicate provision for a circular water tank, the angles of the four plots being cut off to allow room to get round, if this plan be preferred to the straight paths as indicated by the black lines. I is another water tank, if needed, for washing vegetables, &o. The four central plots, J, K, L, and M, are for the main vege- table crops Round the margins may be grown pyramidal or bush fruit trees, ten to twelve feet apart, and with currants b 2 4 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. or gooseberries between Or, if preferred, espalier fruit trees may be grown up each side of the main path. Each of the NORTH t ^U~„v_ -.'- D y ,,-[,:^ A N ■ — .-.^..m. . .■ . i 1 1 i j B K ■ K UJ kj 1 Q h ft) 5 L B M i o Oc \ 1 ■m. 7MM HP R A P ! I80 f£ET SOUTH Fig. 1. Plan of a One-Acre Garden. four plots measures sixty-five feet six inches wide by ninety- seven feet long. The borders, N, 0, P, Q, E, are sixteen feet wide, and afford THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. 5 ample space for the roots of fruit trees grown against the walls, and the growth of early crops, saladings, herbs, flowers for cutting, &o. Half- Acre Garden. — We next give a plan (Fig. 2) for a half-acre plot, measuring 180 feet in width and 121 feet in length. In this case the longest side is from west to east, in order to get more compact central plots and border space. A is the entrance ; B, a main path eight feet wide ; C, a path three feet wide ; D, sheds and tool house ; E, glasshouses ; F, frames ; L K H n M i B J A :■.-.. ■■;■;: e •; ] D ' y < Oc N i ISO FEET NORTH Fig. 2. Plan of a Half- Acre Garden. G and H, water tanks. The central plots, I and J, are for the main crops, with fruit trees round the margin. Plot I is sixty-seven feet wide and eighty-three feet long in its longest part, and seventy-four feet opposite the frames. Plot J is sixty -seven feet wide and eighty-three feet long. The borders, K, L, M, N, are fifteen feet wide. Quarter- Acre Garden. — This plan (Fig. 3) measures ninety feet nine inches in width, and 120 feet in length, and has its longest side from west to east. A is the entrance ; It VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. B paths three feet wide ; C, glasshouses ; D, frames ; E, tool- houses and sheds ; F, water tanks ; G and H are vegetable plots fifty-eight feet nine inches by forty-two feet wide; and I, J, K, L and M, borders twelve feet wide. The three plans will afford a general idea of the best way to lav out a vegetable garden, making provision for glasshouses, frames, sheds, main plots for general vegetables, and borders for early crops, saladings, etc. It is unnecessary to give plans for laying out an allotment garden. These are generally laid out in five, ten, twenty, or twenty-five-rod plots, with two or three-feet alleys between. Fig. 3. Plan of a Quakter-Acre Garden. Boundaries. — We have already mentioned these incident- ally in a previous paragraph. As we expect few of the readers of this work to be able to go to the expense of building expen- sive walls ten to fourteen feet high, we shall not occupy space in dealing with these, but rather confine our remarks to ordinary walls, fences, and hedges. Ordinary walls may be of nine-inch bricks, with fourteen by four and a-half-inch piers at intervals of ten feet, have eighteen-inch footings, and be five feet high above ground level, with a half-round coping on top, THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. 7 as shown at Fig. 8 ; or be built of rubble stone as indicated by Fig. 9. Here the footings should be two feet three inches wide, and fifteen inches deep, and the wall four feet six inches high and fifteen inches wide. If a less expensive boundary be preferred, oak fencing (Fig. 10) would be a good substitute. For this purpose, nine- feet oak posts should be let into the ground to a depth of two feet six inches, and a distance apart of nine feet. Into the posts should be fixed three four-by-two inch rails, and to these be nailed one-inch boarding. For a cheaper fence still, the open oak pale (Fig. 11) is recommended. Posts five by five inches, and seven feet six inches long, let into the ground two feet six inches, and placed nine feet apart, with three four-by-two-inch rails and some two and a-half by three-quarter-inch pales, are the main require- ments. The pales should be nailed to the rails at intervals of two inches apart. This fence is really not so good as the closed one, as it permits the cold winds to pass readily through to the crops. It would make a good temporary fence, how- ever, to protect a hedge planted inside until the latter had grown strong and impenetrable. The cheapest and best of all fences where shelter and pro- tection only are needed, is a good hedge of yew, holly, beech, or hornbeam and privet, or hawthorn. Holly and yew are slow growing plants, and it takes "half a life-time" to get a really good hedge of either. Beech alone makes a good hedge, but hornbeam and privet the best of all. The hornbeam retains its leaves till new ones form again, and hence makes a first-rate shelter. The Myrobalan plum is recommended by some as a good hedge plant, and the virtues of the " Quick- set " or hawthorn as a hedge shrub are too well known to need mention here. On the whole, if a low hedge be needed, plant privet or " Quicks )t"; if a high one eight to ten feet be required, plant hornbeam and privet. The site for a hedge should be trenched and manured three feet wide and deep. Plant hornbeam three feet apart, the others a foot apart. Autumn is the best time to plant, and the height of the plants should not exceed three feet. Between each pair of horn- beams plant a privet, then a good thick hedge will be obtained. 8 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Drainage. — Draining land is an expensive matter, and so should not be undertaken unless really necessary. Generally speaking, if land is well trenched and worked, drainage is not required. If the site of a vegetable garden contains springs or generally proves wet then it will lie worth while to drain, no-T otherwise. To ascertain if drainage is needful, dig test- holes here and there, three feet or so deep, in winter, and if these quickly fill with water, then drain the land by all means, t *~ 4-' MAIN DRAIN i % — c J , .-/ 80 F£Er Fig 4. Diaguam of Drains. In draining, first of all find out the lowest part cf the lan<\ and run a four-inch main drain with a gentle fall, cither obliquely or down the centre of the plot, to this. At the lowest spot form a reservoir to collect the water, for use in the garden, or let it empty into the nearest brook or ditch. < on- neeted with the main drain, have feeders (three-inch pipes) running at right angles or obliquely, according to the formation of the land. These should be twenty to twenty-five feet apart. To lay the drains, open trenches two feet wide at top, a foot wide at bottom, and three feet deep (Fig. 6). In these lay the pipes. The diagram (Fig. 5a) shows a " crow's foot" drain, consisting of one main drain and two oblique THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. 9 branch drains. B (Fig. 5) shows a main drain and branch drains laid at an angle of 45 deg. C (Fig. 5) shows one main drain (A, B) only laid obliquely across the plot. Diagram (Fig. -1) has the drains laid horizontally or at right angles to the main drain. (2 67^- Fig. 5. Diagram of Drains. Where it is not necessary to drain the land, drains may yet be necessary for the paths to carry off the superfluous water. The main drain should be fixed along one side of the main path, and feeders from the side paths run into this. Connected with the drains should be grids to collect the surface water. Where ordinary pipe drains are not practicable, form rubble drams like the Section (Fig. 7). A channel of 10 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. four stones or tiles is formed in the bottom of the trench, over this is placed a layer of rubble, then one of gravel. Fig. B. Fig. 7. A, drain; B, Trench. A, drain; B, rabble ; 0, soil or gravel. Paths. — Good paths are indispensable in a vegetable garden on account of the heavy traffic which has to pass over them. Thus, for the main paths, the soil should be dug out to the depth of a foot, and three inches of clinkers, brick-bats, or big stones be put in ; then three inches of smaller stones or coarse cinders, gravel, or ballast, and six inches of finer material on top. For the smaller paths, put five to six inches of coarse ballast, slag, or stones in the bottom, then two inches of coarse gravel, and one inch of fine gravel on the sur- face. In very small gardens where there is not much wheeling- done, cinders, ballast, or asphalte may be used for the paths. Edgings. — In small gardens the edgings may be composed of flints, creosoted feather-edged boards, burrs, or clinkers. Where expense is a secondary consideration tiles are un- doubtedly the neatest and best form of edging to adopt. Box makes a neat and attractive edging, but it takes some time to establish, and moreover requires a good deal of labour to prepare and plant and keep in order afterwards. In some gardens parsley and strawberries are used as edgings, likewise London pride, thrift, stonecrop, and saxifrages. The great objection to living edgings is their liability to harbour slugs, snails, and other vermin. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. 1] In the foregoing remarks want of space has prevented us going very fully into every detail of the formation of a vegetable ga.rden, but we think we have said sufficient to serve as a general guide to the reader how to go to work to plan out his proposed vegetable garden to the best advantage. We will now conclude this chapter with an estimate of the cost of building walls, fences, etc. : — Cost of Brick Boundary Wall. — Building the brick boundary wall complete, according to the annexed section H*LF Kt>UHD COP.'KG ' 1+ »*-* fl£K Section of Bkick W.\ll. Fectio» of Bubble Wall (Fig. 8), round the quarter-acre garden, would cost about £82 ; ditto round the half-acre garden, £116 ; ditto round the one-acre garden, about £160. Cost of Rubble Stone Boundary Wall.— Building the rubble stone boundary wall complete, according to the annexed section (Fig. 9), round the quarter-acre garden, would cost about £93 ; ditto round the half acre garden, about £130; ditto round the one acre garden, about £180. Oak Fencing for Quarter- Acre Garden.— The quantity of material required to fence the quarter-acre garden 12 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. with oak fencing, as the annexed sketch (Fig. 10), would be — forty-nine six-by-six inch oak posts, each eight feet long, 1,256 feet lineal of four-by-two inches oak rail, 2,167 square feet of one-inch thick oak boarding. Cost, £64. Oak Fencing for Half-Acre Garden. — The quantity of material required to fence the half-acre garden with oak fencing, as the annexed sketch (Fig. 10), would be — sixty -nine six-by-six inch oak posts, each eight feet long, 1,780 feet lineal of four-by-two inch oak rail, 3,080 square feet of one-inch thick oak boarding. Cost, =£91. L..J 5 10. Oak Fencing. Oak Fencing for Acre Garden —The quantity of material required to fence the one-acre garden with oak fencing, as the annexed sketch (Fig. 10), would be -ninety-six six-by-six inch oak posts, each eight feet long, 2,718 feet lineal of four-by-two inch oak rail, 4,719 square feet of one-inch thick oak boarding. Cost, £135. Open-Paled Fence for Quarter-Acre Garden.— The quantity of material required to fence the quarter-acre garden with oak open-paled fencing, as the annexed sketch (Fig 11) The vegetable garden. 13 would be — forty-nine five-by-five inch oak posts, each seven feet six inches long, 1,256 feet lineal of four-by-two inch oak rail, 1,048 oak pales, pointed tops, each two and a-half three-quarter inch, and five feet long. Cost, £35. by tjSjS^A ■»; I Fig. 11. Open-Pai.f.d Fence. Open-Paled Fence for Half-Acre Garden. — The quantity of material required to fence the half-acre garden with oak open-paled fencing, as the annexed sketch (Fig. 11), would be — sixty-nine five-by-five inch posts, each seven feet six inch long, 1,780 feet lineal of four-by-two inch oak rail, 1,476 oak pales, pointed tops, each two and a-half by three-quarter inch, and five feet long. Cost, £50. Open-Paled Fence for Acre Garden. — The quantity of material required to fence the one-acre garden with oak open-paled fencing, as the annexed sketch (Fig. 11), would lie — ninety-six five-by-five inch oak posts, each seven feet six inch long, 2,718 feet lineal of four-by-two inch oak rail, 2,028 oak pales, pointed tops, each two and a-half by three quarter inch, and five feet long. Cost, £67. Approximate Cost of Main Paths. — The area of the road marked B on the half-acre garden plan is ninety square 14 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. yards, and if formed as shown in the annexed section (Fig. 12), would cost (labour and material) about Is. 4d. per square yard, which gives a total cost of £6. The area of the road :'-.-- * >■?;'.'-;'" y-'Vrv'T^: TB Fig. 12. Section of Main Path. marked B on the one-acre garden plan is 242 square yards, which, at Is. 4d. per square yard, gives a total cost of £16 3s. Approximate Cost of Garden Paths. — The approxi- mate estimate of the cost of a gravel path similar to the 9 ''9', A Fin. 13. Sectiom of Garden Path. annexed section (Fig. 13), labour and material complete, is 9d. per square yard, or a total cost as follows : — £ s. (1. For |-acre garden, 130 square yards at 9d ... 4 17 G For \ „ „ 163 „ ,, 9d. ... 6 2 3 For 1 ,, ., 267 „ „ 9d. ... 10 3 Cost of Edging Tiles. — The cost of tiles, together with labour for fixing, would be 6d. per lineal yard, or a total of — £ s. d. For ^-acre garden, 250 lineal yards (1,000 tiles) at 6d. 6 5 Fori „ „ 341 „ (1,364 „ ) at 6d. 8 10 G Fori „ „ 646 „ (2 584 „ ) at 6d. 16 3 Cost of Box Edging.— Box edging is sold by the lineal yard. A nursery yard will yield sufficient plants to plant THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. 15 three lineal yards of edging in a garden. The usual price per nursery yard is sixpence. As each such yard will plant three lineal yards of edging, the cost would be twopence per lineal yard. Add to this the cost of preparing the site and planting, roughly threepence per yard, the total cost would be as follows : — £ s. For J-acre garden, box 42s. ; labour 63s. ... ... 5 5 For § ,, ., box 57s. ; labour 85s. ... ... 7 2 Fori „ ' box 108s. ; labour 162s. ... 13 10 www www SOILS. Teje reader should make it his business to thoroughly grasp the purport of the information conveyed in the following paragraphs : — Clay Soils. — There are many kinds of clay soils, but all possess the same characteristic features, namely, great tenacity, plasticity, and retentiveness of moisture. In a crude state they are heavy and difficult to work, very wet and cold. When well cultivated, however, they form fertile land, and are not to be despised. The cultivator's chief aim should be to mechanically improve the texture of such a soil by draining, or deep working, so as to allow the surface water to penetrate below, the upper part to crack freely and form air passages, and the particles generally to become drier and more friable. When the surface water easily goes below, the upper stratum becomes drier and warmer, because the interstices are filled with air, not with cold stagnant moisture. In a word, to render clay soils tractable and fertile they must, if very wet, be drained (but the drains must not be deeper than two and a-half feet), or trenched two feet deep. Under no circumstances, however, must the subsoil be brought to the surface ; it must be kept below. The object of deep tillage is not to bring sour subsoil to the surface and bury the surface soil below, but to increase the depth of the soil, to form an opening for the surface water to drain below away from the action of the sun or the roots of the crops. The next step is to mechanically improve the texture of the soil. This consists of heavily manuring the soil with fresh horse dung, and applying burnt refuse and grit in autumn, then digging these in, and leaving the surface rough all winter! The dung, grit, Ac, will help to separate the plastic lumps of SOILS. 17 clay into finer parts, and make them less cohesive, while the exposure of the rough clods to frost and air will cause them to divide into still finer particles. Early in the year a dressing of fresh lime, at the rate of half a hundredweight per square rod, will get rid of the adhesiveness, disintegrate the mould, prevent puddling on the surface, sweeten the soil, promote nitrification, and the liberation of potash. Thus, in a few years, it will be possible to make a clay soil workable and fertile. Points to remember in the case of clay soils are : — 1. Deep working, to drain the surface water into the sub- soil, and render the upper stratum drier and warmer. 2. To manure heavily in autumn, to open the pores of the soil, and add humus to the latter. 3. To dig in autumn and leave rough all the winter. 4. To avoid working on the land in wet weather. 5. To add lime occasionally. Loamy Soils.— Loam is the best of all soils, whether it be a heavy and clayey loam, or a sandy loam. Such soils are very fertile, easy to manage, and well adapted for the growth of vegetable crops. Those of the heaviest type require liberal manuring in autumn, deep digging, leaving rough all winter, and an occasional liming as advised above early in the year. Those of a lighter nature may, or may not, be dug and manured in autumn. Loams overlying chalk may often be improved by a light dressing of lime. Although there may be abundance of lime below, there is frequently little in the surface soil, owing to the fact that lime quickly sinks. The best manure for loamy soils is fresh stable or mixed farmyard dung ; for light soils the manure should be used in a decayed condition. Sandy Soils. — These are difficult to manage in dry seasons, owing to the fact that tlicy quickly lose their moisture. Sci( nee and practice have shown, however, that if such soils are occasionally limed, the lime will cement the sandy particles together and arrest the depletion of moisture. Furthermore, by the free use of cool and moisture-retaining cow and pig manures, applied late in winter or early in spring, and not in autumn or early winter, sandy soils may be made 18 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. to conserve moisture in dry seasons. Soils of this nature should never be ploughed or dug in autumn or winter. Keep the surface firm so that the rain cannot easily penetrate, dis- solve the food salts, and wash them into the drainage. Old Garden Soils.-- Soils that have been cultivated for very many years differ somewhat from the types previously described. They may originally have been loamy, clayey, 01 sandy soils, but the frequent addition of manures, composts, ifec, have both mechanically and chemically changed theii character, and so we must say a few words specially about them. Such soils are rich in humus, i.e , decayed vegetable matter, and consequently are of a dark tint. Now, as humus has the property of absorbing ammonia from the atmosphere, and adding' nitrogen to the soil, it is evident that old garden soils are much richer in plant food than recently cultivated ones. But it often happens that there is an excess of humus in the soil, and when this is the case the soil becomes more or less sour, and the crops grown therein fail to thrive so well as on the poorer soils. These facts show that a moderate amount of humus is good, but an excess is bad. The excess is due to too great a preponderance of humic acid. Moreover, in old soils there is generally a variety of animal lifo and fungi, both of which do much harm to crops. To get an old garden soil into good condition, to destroy excess of humus, sweeten it and free it from minute animal and fungoid pests, the gardener must resort to the use of lime at intervals of two or three years. He must also use animal manur. s more sparingly for a time, relying upon the chemical action of the lime to set free locked-up food, as well as otherwise improve the condition of the soil in the manner above mentioned. Read the paragraph on lime and its action in the section devoted to Manures. Peat Soils.— These are the worst classes of soils for gardening purposes. They are sour, more or less water- logged, and expensive to put in working order. Draining, liberal liming, and mixing with good soils, will in time render them fertile. Colour of Soil. — The colour of s iils is due to humus and iron. Humus renders a soil greyish when dry, and blackish SOILS. 19 when wet. The red colour of soils is due to ferric oxide (oxide of iron) ; the blue tints of blue clay, to iron sulphide. The red and the blue tints vary according to the amount of humus prtsent. Testing Soil for Water.- Lift a spadeful of soil, weigh a pound, and spread it on a tray in a dry, warm place for a few days ; then re weigh it. The difference in the weight will represent the quantity of moisture evaporated, and afford a rough idea of the proportion of water present in the soil. Experiment thus with clay, loam, and sandy soils. Testing Soil for Humus. — To ascertain whether a soil contains much humus, take a pound weight of it, evaporate the moisture as above advised, and note the lo^s in weight ; then put the dried soil on a shovel over a hot fire until it has ceased to give off any smoke. When quite cool re-weigh, and the difference in weight will give the proportion of humus the soil contained. Testing the Solubility of Soils. — Put a given quantity of the fire-dried soil in a bottle capable of holding half a pint of rain water, shake it up, and lot it stand for a day; then pour off the clear liquid into a saucer, and place this in a warm oven till the water has evaporated. Scrape the residue deposited in the saucer into a heap, and then you have some idea of the proportion of soil which can be dissolved by water. The solids left in the bottle represent the insoluble portion of a soil, and that in the saucer, the soluble portion. Testing for Lime in Soils. — To ascertain if a soil con- tains lime, dry some soil in an oven, place it in a tumbler, and puur some dilute hydrochloric acid over it. If lime be present the acid will cause effervescence to take place. Claying Soils. — Sandy, peaty, and calcareous soils may be greatly improved by a top-dressing of clay, at the rate of half a cart-load per square rod. The clay should be spread over the land in autumn, and allowed to remain till spring for the frost to pulverise it. 2ft VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Chalking Soils. — Where chalk can be obtained cheaply this will greatly benefit clay soils. Apply in autumn, and dig in in .spring. Quantity per square rod, half a cart-load. Paring and Burning Soils. — Old pastures about to be converted into vegetable gardens should have the turf pared off two to three inches in thickness and charred to ashes. Start a fire with straw, sticks, and other dry rubbish then add some of the clryest of the turves, and when the fire has got a good hold keep adding turves until the whole are charred. Several fires miy be formed thus. The burning converts the vegetable matter into valuable plant foods, and destroys injurious grubs. The ashes should be spread evenly over the land. The cost of paring will amount to about £1 per acre, the burning to £1 5s. or £1 10s. per acre, and the distribution of the ashes to 5s. per acre, or a total of £2 10s. to £2 15s. per acre. Clay Burning. — There is no better way of making very heavy clay soils fertile aud workable than by burning the upper two or three inches. The fire is made as advised in the previous paragraph, fine coal or "slack" being mixed with the clay. This work is best done in summer. Three tons of coal are required to every hundred yards of clay. The heaps should consist of a cart load each. Cost, about 8d. per cubic yard of ashes. Trenching Soils. — Trenching means deep cultivation, and it may be done in two ways, namely, three spits deep or two spits deep. The first is called deep trenching, and the second bastard trenching. Deep trenching is carried out mainly on new soils about to be converted into gardens, or on garden soils that have been neglected for many years, or are heavy and damp, and in need of draining. Bastard or ordinary trenching is usualty practised where root crops are to be grown. Root crops, as is well known, require a good depth of soil, and trenching ensures this. The advantages of trenching are explained somewhat fully in the remarks on clay foils. It means that damp and heavy soils are rendered more porous, thus allowing the surface water to descend below the area in which the roots of most crops per- meate, and the interstices of the soil to be filled with air instead SOILS. 21 of stagnant water. The presence of air in the soil warms the latter, whereas water renders it cold and sour. Trenching, in a manner, then, takes the place of drains. In ploughed land, or in old pasture, there is generally what is known as a " pan " a foot or less from the surface. This pan is composed of mineral particles, including iron, which have gradually gravitated from the surface, and formed a hard, eementdike layer If the soil in this case be dug only a spit deep the roots will come in contact with the "pan "and its injurious constituents, and they will either become diseased or the growth of the plant be stunted. Deep trenching, in the case of new land, gets rid of this pan, breaks it up, and allows the roots more freedom for development. There are right and wrong ways of trenching, however. Ignorautly done, incalculable harm may be inflicted upon the soil, and its adaptability for growing good crops frustrated for many years. Thus, if a trench be opened, and the surface soil thrown into the bottom, and the subsoil brought to the top, the latter will be so charged with deleterious substances, and so sour, that vegetable life will not grow freelj' in it. The correct mode is to keep the soil and subsoil in their relative positions, merely turning each over in its normal layers. The following details and diagrams will show the proper method of trenching : — In Section A (Fig. 1) a trench is shown taken out two spades wide and deep (see 1 and 2). The soil so removed is wheeled to the opposite end of the plot. Standing in the trench, the gardener next digs out a further trench one spade deep only (see 3), and wheels this also to the other end, placing it in a heap by itself. Each of the little squares marked 1, 2 and 3, represents a "spit" of soil. With a fork the gardener then places a layer of manure or weeds in the bottom of the trench. He next turns spit No. 4 (see Section B) over this, adds a layer of manure, and places spit No. 5 on top. The result is shown in Section C. The gardener then treats each subsequent spit exactly as he did Nof. 4 and 5 in Section B. This is how ordinary trenching is done. If deep trenching is to be done, the gardener walks sideways along the bottom of the narrow trench in Section B, and with a fork or spade turns over a third spit or lower subsoil, working in long manure, weeds, or grit, to render the soil poious. Having done 22 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. this, he then proceeds to treat Nos. 5 and 4 (Section 13) as already advised. This plan is pursued till the end of _ the plot is reached, when spit No. 3, previously wheeled to this end, is thrown into the trench, and spits one and two on top. This plan of trenching stirs the soil to at least a depth of two feet, and yet does not bring to the surface any of the upper subsoil (No. 3) or the spit below it. jjBfcp jgjiBg 8%?*%'^ * opii, , '/wm0Mm Sect' oi 0. wm,, mm Fig. I. Mode oh Bastard tbkxching Soil. Trenching should always be done in the autumn or early winter, and the surface be left as rough as possible for the frost and air to pulverize and ameliorate it. The cost of trenching soil two spits deep and forking over (he third spit, is usually estimated at Is. per square rod (thirty and a-quarter square yards), or £8 per acre. It takes about thirty days to do an acre. For ordinary trenching two SOILS. 23 spits deep, the usual price is 8d. per square rod, or £5 6s. 8d per acre. About twenty-four days arc required tc do an acre. Ridging Soils. — This system of cultivation is best adapted for heavy soils that were trenched the previous year, or old garden soils that are infested with insect life. The ridges are thrown up as shown in diagram,. and run from north to south. Soil so treated easily gets frozen in severe weather, thus Fin. 2. Mode of Ridging Soil. destroying insect life. Moreover, when a thaw takes place by the action of the sun, the frozen particles easily break up and form a fine crumbly mould. Ridging, moreover, drams the surface soil, and renders it warmer also for seed sowing and planting in spring. . The rid°'in»- should be done as follows :— The ridges are shown at A A A A (Fig. 2), and the parallel lines BBBB show the ground divided by stretching a garden line into lengths two spits wide. Commencing at the extreme left at C, the first spit is thrown forward and turned over to the right hand and the second spit, D, is turned from the right to the left thus forming the ridge as at A. The same process is repeated at E and F and right across the plot to be ridged. Wider ridges H VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. □ Fig. 3. and deeper furrows may be formed by throwing the first two spits forward, and throwing the third spit on the top of and in the centre of both (see Fig. 3). The manure should be buried in the trench as the ridging proceeds. Do not level the ridges until the soil is required for sowing or planting. Digging Soils. — This consists of di deep, equal to a foot in depth. T le wrons ing the soil one spit ; way is to start at 2. r>. 3. B. 1. c. //////// //////// Fig. 4. Mode Digging Land. one end of a plot and turn the soil over, finishing up at the opposite end with a shallow layer of soil. In course of time the soil at the end where the digging usually begins, will be much higher and deeper than at the end where the digging finished. The proper course is to open a trench one spit wide and deep at one end of the plot (see Fig. 4, A), and to wdieel the soil removed from the trench to the path at the opposite end (B). You then have a clear trench to start with, and when the end of the plot is reached, the open trench is filled SOILS. 25 with the toil on the path. This course maintains an even depth of soil, and the plot has a neater appearance. In the accompanying diagram (Fig. 4) the land is divided into three plots ; but this is only needful where the area is a large one. When you reach the end (C) of plot 1, there is an open trench. Open a trench at D (plot 2) and throw the soil into the open trench C. When you get to F (plot 2) open a trench at F (plot 3) and put the soil in trench E. When you reach B (plot 3) the soil from A (plot 1) is available to fill the open trench and complete the digging. Soil Amelioration. — This means working the surface of the soil in early spring, so as to get it into a good fine tilth. In February and March land that has been dug, trenched, or ridged in winter, should be forked over once or twice in fine weather. This stirring of the surface will make the soil fine and friable, and sweeter and better for seed sowing. Land should never be worked in wet weather. As soon as crops appear through the soil, use the hoe or prong frequently, and especially in dry weather. The hoeing will prevent the giowth of weeds, harass, if not destroy, grubs feeding near the surface, and act as a mulch to the roots. Soils that cake on the surface, or are likely to get very dry in summer, should be frequently stirred thus. Nitrification of Soils. — Recent researches by eminent agricultural chemists have demonstrated that the fertility of soils is increased by the presence of certain bacterial organisms. These microbes are capable, it appears, of forming nitrate in the soil, under certain favourable conditions. In soils that do not contain too much humus, and hence require much oxygen to oxidise the decaying matter, but are otherwise moist and porous, the bacteria will thrive, form nitrates, and thus add nitrogen to the soil for the sustenance of ciops. It is clear, therefore, that over-rich, sour soils are deficient in nitrates, and that the special microbes cannot exist in chem. Dressings of gypsum or lime are needed to sweeten such soils, destroy the excess of humic acid, and so prepare the way for nitrification. The microbes do not exist in the subsoil nor close to the surface. They need plenty of oxygen, but no light. ^3> <2> <2> <2> <2> MANURES. In these clays of thorough cultivation, when the gardener makes it his business to endeavour to get the most out of the land, the use of manures as an aid to the attainment of that object is a matter of no mean importance. It is not enough to merely tell him, as we have done in connection with each crop, wdiat kinds to use ; he must also know something of the food requirements of the crop, likewise of the properties of the several manures he is advised to use, if he really desire8 to attain the utmost success. And so we have decided to devote a special section of tins work to the subject of manures, to supplement the information given in the cultural articles. Here we shall first of all describe the chief food constituents of plants, then describe each manure separately that is used to augment the natural food supply in the soil, and give such other useful data as we deem of service to the vegetable Constituents of Plants. - Some years ago, Mr. W. Dyke, a clever and successful market-gardener and an authority on manures, read a most practical and valuable paper on Manures and their Uses, before the members of the National Amateur Gardeners' Association, and in his opening remarks gave a very lucid resume of the constituents of plants, which we cannot do better than reproduce. He remarked :—" The chemist, after years of research, has found that all plants, without exception, are made up of different quantities of the following substances : Carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, salphur, phosphorus, chlorine, potash, soda, lime, magnesia, and iron. Before pro- ceeding further we should do well to learn something about these twelve chemical bodies, and see what Dart they take in the nutrition of plants. MANURES. 27 Carbon is a substance which is found almost pure in nature in the diamond, in graphite, and in charcoal. It also exists in the atmosphere combined with oxygen as carbonic acid gas, and it is from this source that plants, by means of their leaves, obtain all their carbon and part of their oxygen. Every ttn thousand volumes of air contain about four volumes of carbonic acid gas ; so we see that plants have an unlimited supply of this substance in the atmosphere. A Lesson in Manuring. Produce of One Square Rod of Onions Grown with the aid of Potash and Superphosphate. Oxygen is a colourless, invisible gas, possessing neither taste nor smell. In the free state it forms one-fifth of the atmo- sphere. Oxygen, when combined with hydrogen, forms water, and it is from this source that plants obtain the other part of their oxygen and all their hydrogen. Given a good supply of air and plenty of water, plants have an unlimited supply of carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen, and we therefore need not con- sider them from a manurial poinb of view. '& VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Nitrogen is also a colourless, invisible gas, which possesses neither taste nor smell. It forms in the free state four-fifths of the atmosphere. Although plants require nitrogen, and have so much surrounding them, they, with a few exceptions, cannot utilise it as food. The nitrogen found in plants is obtained from the soil, chiefly in the form of nitrates, and perhaps to a much smaller extent as ammonium salts. A nitrate is a substance formed by the union of nitric acid with A Lesson in Manuring. Produce of One Square Rod of Onions Grown without the aid of any Manure. another chemical body, like soda, lime or potash ; nitrate of soda, nitrate of lime, or nitrate of potash being formed. An ammonium salt is a substance formed by the union of ammonia with an acid. Thus we have ammonia combined with sul- phuric acid, forming sulphate of ammonia; and carbonic acid combined with ammonia, forming carbonate of ammonia. Sulphur is an element too well known to need description. Although there must always be a supply in the sod in which MANURES. 29 plants are grown, they cannot make vise of sulphur itself. Sulphur unites with oxygen and hydrogen to form sulphuric acid ; and this acid combines with magnesia, potash, or iron, to form sulphate of magnesia, potash, or iron, it being from these sulphates that plants obtain their sulphur. Phosphorus is another well-known element. It is, however, of no value to plants in a free state. Like sulphur, it com- bines with oxygen and hydrogen to form an acid, viz., phos- phoric acid, and this unites with lime to form phosphate of lime, it being from this substance that plauts obtain their phosphorus. Chlorine is a } T ellowisli gas never found free in nature. It readily unites with soda or potash to form chloride of sodium (common salt), chloride or muriate of potash. Both of these sources would supply plants with chlorine. Potash, soda, lime, and magnesia are all well-known substances They are never found in soils unless combined with an acid. Soda and potash unite r< adily with nitric and sulphuric acid to form nitrate and sulphate of soda and potash, and these substances form valuable food for plants. Lime and magnesia are absorbed from the soil principally in the form of sulphate, phosphate, and nitrate of magnesia, and lime. Plants obtain iron from the soil chiefly in the form of sul- phate of iron, and perhaps to a lesser extent as chloride of iron. Having briefly described the twelve constituents of plants, and shown that air and water supply three of them, our next consideration will be to see which of the others are required most during plant development. It has been found by analyzing hundreds of plants, that the substances taken from the soil in the largest q nan ti ties are nitrogen, potash, phosphoric acid, and lime. A manure to be of any value must, therefore, con- tain one or more of these substances, for the most fertile soils could not endure for any length of time the constant loss of these ingredients without becoming impoverished. Let us see what is the chief work of these important constituents. Nitrogen is the substance chiefly concerned in building up young tissue, and must be present throughout the life of the plant. The effect of an application of a nitrogenous manure is to produce a darker colour in the foliage, and greater vigour 30 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. and increased growth in the plant. The use of phosphatie manures may be said to induce the production of flowers and seeds. The use of potash is to help in' the production of starch, for this substance cannot be formed unless potash be present. Lime is useful in soils to keep them sweet. Nitrogen and phosphoric acid combine with lime, and are thus taken into the plant, where the lime afterwards combines with acids formed in the plants themselves and renders them harmless. The principal use of manures, therefore, is to return to the soil those ingredients removed by crops, or to make up deficiencies in soils which are naturally poor." Nitrogenous Manures. — The following manures supply nitrogen to crops: Sulphate of ammonia, nitrate of soda, nitrate of potash, Peruvian guano, soot, urine, liquid manure, dissolved, boiled, or powdered bones and dung. Phosphatie Manures. — The following manures supply phosphoric acid for the growth of crops : Basic slag, super- phosphate, bone dust, guano, human excreta, dung, burnt bones, and wood ashes. Potash Manures. — The following substances supply potash : Kainit, sulphate and muriate of potash, wood ashes, urine, malt dust, composts, burnt clay, and green manures. Lime Manures. — The subjoined substances supply lime : Burnt lime, chalk, marl, gypsum, gas lime, and road scrapings. Basic Slag. — This is also known as Thomas Phosphate Powder. It is a bye-prcduct obtained in the manufacture of steel, and contains from thirty to forty per cent, of phosphate of lime. Has a similar effect on the growth of crops to super- phosphate, but is slow in action, and is best suited for damp, heavy soils that contain little or no lime. Apply in autumn, at the rate of seven pounds per square rod. Approximate cost per cwt. 5s. 6d. Blood. — Fresh blood is really not a very rich fertiliser. One hundred pounds contains two and a-half to three pounds of nitrogen, half a pound of phosphoric acid, and half a pound of MANURES. 31 alkaline salts. Average samples of it contain eighty per cent, of water. It ia best mixed with dried earth, peat ashes, or charcoal, to remove the moisture, or mixed with ordinary com- post, and allowed to remain for some time to decompose before digging it in. When mixed with peat ash or charcoal, add fifty gallons of blood to six of the former. Apart from dried blood, which is referred to in a separate paragraph, fresh blood is specially prepared for use in various ways. ThtH, says Dr. Griffiths, in his "Treatise on Manures" (Whittaker & Co.): ' Fresh or raw clotted blood is produced by extracting the serum of blood by gravitation. It contains from six to seven per cent, of ammonia, and is in a liver-like state. Before sending it into market, it is cut into pieces about an inch square and packed in barrels. This form of blood is some- times mixed with superphosphates, bones, etc." Then there is Acided Clotted Blood — blood treated with sulphuric acid, and ground along with bones to form a guano-like fertiliser. This contains six to seven per cent, of ammonia. All blood manures dissolve blowly, so are best applied before sowing or planting. Approximate cost per cwt., 17s. 6d. Bone Meal. — A slow-acting manure containing fifty per cent, of insoluble phosphate of lime and five per cent, of nitrogen. Should be obtained finely ground. Suitable for Turnips. Apply before sowing the seed, at the rate of eight to ten pounds per square rod. Approximate cost per cwt., 10s. Steamed bone flour contains sixty per cent, of insoluble phos phate of lime, and one and a-half per cent, of nitrogen. Use as advised for bone meal. Approximate cost per cwt, 10s. Composts. — These may be formed of waste fish, bones, offal, wee's, night soil, road scrapings, and leaves, and a little lime or salt thrown in an oblong heap and turned occasionally. In a year's time this mixture will make a good dressing for heavy soils. Cow Manure. — This is inferior in fertilising value to horse dung. It is more watery, poorer in quality, and slower in decomposition. Its action in the soil is spread over a longer period than is the case with horse dung. Cow manure is best S2 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. suited for light and sandy soils ; it lias a tendency to conserve moisture in dry weather, and ren 'er the soils more compact. Tha advice given as to the management of horse manure applies equally to cow dung. Use at the same rate as horse manure. Approximate cost per cart-load, 5s. to 6s. Dissolved Bones. — These are bones treated by sulphuric acid, so as to convert part of their insoluble phosphates into soluble phosphates. They dissolve more readily than bone meal, and form a valuable manure for Turnips. Contain three and a-half per cent, of ammonia and thirty per cent, of insoluble phosphates. Apply before sowing or planting, at the rate of three to four pounds per square rod. Approximate cost per owt., 10s. Dried Blood. — This is a rich and valuable nitrogenous manure, containing from twelve to sixteen per cent, of ammonia and a very small percentage of phosphates, potash, and lime. Dried blood is largely exported from South America, as well as prepared in England. It is one of the ingredients used in the composition of specially prepared general manures. It ib a splendid fertiliser for Turnips and other root crops grown on light or sandy soils. Use at the rate of three to four ounces per square yard just before sowing, or later, as a top-dressing. To get the best results, mix equal parts of kainit, superphos- phate, and dried blood together, and apply at the rate of three ounces per square yard before planting or sowing. Approxi- mate cost per owt., 19s. Farmyard Manure. — Manure so designated consists of the excrements of the horse, cattle, pig, and poultry, and is a most valuable fertilizer for vegetable crops. Properly managed, it contains considerable quantities of nitrogen, phosphates, and potash, the three main ingredients required by crops as food. The reader should, therefore, bear in mind the fact that mixed animal manures >>re far richer than when one kind alone is used. Even a mixture of cow and horse dung is preferable to horse or cow dung used separately. By combining the three or two the deficiences of one are made up by the other, and so a more perfect fertiliser is obtained. Earmyard manure is MANURES. 33 bust stored till required, under cover, so that the rains may not wash out its valuable food salts. Follow the advice given v itli regard to horse manure. Sec that the several manures are well mixed by occasional turnings, and when applied to the land, dig them in at once, so as to avoid loss of valuable fertilising properties. Use at the rate recomuended for horse dung. Approximate cost per cart-load, 5s. to (is. Gas-Lime. — This is an excellent substance to apply to land infested with insects. It is composed of burnt lime which has been used for gas purification. In its fresh condition it is poisonous to plant-life on account of its containing sulphide of lime. Gas-lime must, therefore, not be applied to land con- taining crops of any kind. Apply in early autumn to vacant land, at the rate of a quarter hundredv.eii.dnj per square rod, and let it lie on the surface till spring, the -n dig in. By spring the sulphide will be converted into sulphate of lime, the latter being a valuable manure. Approximate cost per ton, 5s. to 10s. Green Manure. — This consists of white mustard, rape, rye, vetches, or clover sown on vacant land, and allowed to almost reach maturity, then dug in. In gardens, there is usually but little opportunity for practising this method of enriching the soil, as the land is not vacant. Where a plot is vacant in summer, and the soil is infested with wire-worms, sow white mustard and dig it in just before flowering. It usually takes seven weeks from the time of sowing till the crop is ready to dig in. The mustard is obnoxious to wire- worms, and adds a considerable quantity of potash, phosphoric acid, and nitrogen to the soil; in fact, takes the place of a dressing of manure. Guano. — There are two kinds of guano — natural and manufactured. The former is composed of fowl excrement deposited in the rainless districts of Peru, Chili, Ichaboe, etc. It varies a good deal in composition, some guanos containing nitrogen and phosphates, and others phosphates and no nitrogen. All guanos contain a small percentage of potash. A good sample of guano is, therefore, a first-rate all-round fertilizer. o 34 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. The foregoing guano may be applied at the rate of one to two pounds per square rod at sowing time, also as a top- dressing at the same rate, when the crops are in full growth. Approximate cost per cwt., 20s. Another kind of guano, known as " Ammoniated Peruvian Guano," prepared by add- ing sulphate of ammonia to ordinary Peruvian guano, is really better than some of the purely natural ones. The manufac- tured guanos include " Fish Guano," composed of dried fish flesh, and fish bones ground to a powder, then mixed with potash and magnesia salts ; and the " Native Guano," composed of dried sewage. The "Fish Guano" may be used at the rate of one to two pounds per square rod, and the " Native Guano" at the rate of one quarter of a cwt. per square rod. "Fish Guano" costs about 13s. per cwt, and "Native Guano" 5s. per cwt. Gypsum. — A form of lime (sulphate of lime) occasionally used as a substitute for ordinary lime. It is said to benefit root and potato crops. Anyway, it acts upon the latent potash in the scil, liberates it for the use of crops, and promotes nitrification. Mixed with farmyard manure, it fixes the ammonia, and prevents loss of nitrogen. It may be used at the rate of two to three pounds per square rod. The price is about 5s. per hundredweight. Hides, Leather Parings, Hair, and Horn. — These contain from fourteen to eighteen per cent, of nitrogen, are very slow in action, and scarcely of any value for vegetable crops. If used at all, mix them with weed refuse, t came in contact with. The only way to MANURES. 43 remove this injurious property, and render the urine still more valuable, is to let it undergo putrefaction, thus decom- posing the caustic salts. To accomplish this, the urine must remain in a covered tub or tank for six weeks before being used. After that time has passed, mix the liquid with one-fourth water as it is required for use. When not required for use in liquid form, throw it over the manure heap. Woodashes. — The ash of burnt vegetable refuse, hedge trimmings tree primings, cabbage stumps, and weeds generally, form a valuable manure for application to all kinds of soils. "Woodashes are rich in phosphates and potash, and are of especial benefit to Carrot and Turnip crops. Should be applied at time of sowing at the rate of one to three bushels per square rod. The ashe? shouM he kept dry till required for use. Mixing Manures. — The following manures should not be mixed together unless they can be applied to the soil and dug in at once. It is really the safest plan to apply each separately at different periods : Dung with lime, guano with lime or basic slag, nitrate of soda with superphosphate, sulphate of ammonia or potash with basic slag, or superphosphate with basic slag. The following mixtures are, however, quite safe : Superphos- phate with sulphate of ammonia ; basic slag with nitrate of soda or sulphate of ammonia ; fish guano with mineral manures ; phosphatic guanos with nitrate of soda or sulphate of ammonia. Application of Manures. — It is most important that the grower should possess a knowledge of the best time to apply the manures hereafter mentioned, so as to utilise them to the greatest advantage. Thus, in the case of animal manures — horse, cow, pig, and farmyard dung — these are best applied in autumn to heavy soils, and late in winter or early in spring to soils of a light nature. Then, again, such soluble manures as nitrate of soda, sulphate of ammonia, sulphate of potash, superphosphate and guano are best applied in spring or later, and slow-acting manures like kainit, basic slag, phosphates, and bones in autumn Phosphates and potash 44 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. dissolve slowly, and are retained by the soil, whereas nitro- genous manures dissolve quickly, and will be washed into the drainage and lost if applied at a time when there are few roots to absorb them. Soluble manures, moreover, answer best on heavy, and undissolved ones on light soils. Liquid manures are best applied to the soil when moist, not when dry. Early White Stone, or Six-Weeks Turnip. CROPPING A GARDEN The art of cropping a vegetable garden is by no means one of the least important phases of vegetable culture. You may prepare and manure jour soil in the most skilful manner, obtain the best strains of vegetables, and pay every attention to other cultural details, but you may still fail to attain the zenith of perfection in vegetable cultivation if you neglect the all-important subject of proper rotation of crops. It is a well known fact to experienced gardeners that a crop of one kind, say cabbages or potatoes, does not succeed well if grown for two or more years in succession on the same plot of land. The reason is obvious The Cabbage, say, utilises for its sustenance certain proportions of plant food in the soil. During its first year it manages to get an ample supply, but in the second and subsequent years the supply is gradually becoming less and less, and the crop ultimately becomes starved. It is true you may endeavour to supply the deficiency by the addition of natural and chemical manures, and so avoid an absolute poverty of the particular food re- quired by the one crop, but the results are not satisfactory. We are well aware that many people do grow Potatoes year after year on the same plot, but we have never yet seen good crops grown thus. Besides, it must be borne in mind that shallow-rooted and deep-rooted vegetables obtain their supplies from different depths of the soil. Hence the roots of a Cabbage feed in the upper layer of soil only, while those of the Carrot or Parsnip obtain their food lower down. It stands to reason, there- fore, if we grow Cabbages one year on a plot, Parsnips the next, another shallow-rooting vegetable the third year, and a deep-rooting one the fourth year, we shall be alternately giving the upper and lower la\ers of soil and their reserves of 46 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. plant food a rest-time to recuperate and replenish, and main- tain an even standard of fertility. Apart from the chemical or plant food reasons, there is another and still equally important one to be studied. By growing any of the Cabbage tribe continually on the same plot, the soil is liable to become infected with the club-root disease, thus rendering it difficult to grow such a crop healthily or successfully. But if we grow Cabbage one year on the plot, and either Potatoes or Parsnips the next year, and Onions or Beans the following year, we allow a couple of years for the disease to be starved out or obliterated, before the Cabbage crop again occupies the land. Three-Course System of Cropping. — In successful vegetable culture, then, we recommend a three-course system of cropping. To carry out this s) r stem the garden requires to be divided into four parts, one part being devoted to per- manent crops, such as Rhubarb, Seakale, Asparagus, Herbs, etc , and the other three to annual crops. In this case, plot No. 1 should be sown or planted with Beet, Carrots, Celery, Leeks, Parsnips, or Potatoes ; plot No. 2 with Beans, Peas, Spinach, Onions, Turnips, and Lettuce ; plot No. 3 with green crops, as Cabbage, Kale, Sprouts, and Broccoli. The following year sow or plant No. 1 plot with Peas, Beans, Spinach, Onions, Turnips, and Lettuce ; No. 2 with green crops ; No. 3 with Potatoes, Parsnips, Beet, Carrots, Leeks, Celery, Salsafy, and Scorzonera. In the third year No. 1 plot would be cropped with the Cabbage family ; No. 2 with Potatoes, Carrots, Parsnips, Beet, Leeks, and Celery ; and No. 3 with Peas, Beans, etc. By adopting this plan of cropping it will only be needful to trench each plot every third year, and then for the deep-root- ing crops only, such as Parsnips Beet, Carrots, Salsafy, etc. Moreover, no stable manure would be required for Carrots, Beet, and other deep-rooting vegetables, and it would only be necessary to manure the plots for Peas and surface rooting cr ps. A Four-Course System. — Another method of cropping is to crop No. 1 plot the first year with Peas, Beans, and Celery, well manuring the land for this crop. The second CROPPING A GARDEN. 47 year this plot is cropped with Carrots, Parsnips, Beet, Salsafy, and Scorzonera, without any manure. The third year, Turnips, Onions, Lettuce, and the Cabbage tribe are grown on it after manuring; and the fourth year, Potatoes only, grown with the aid of chemical manure, are cultivated. This provides for a four-year course of cropping. The second plot is planted with Carrots, Beet. Parsnips, Siilsafy, and Scorzonera the first year; Turnips, Onions, Lettuce, and the Cabbage family the second ; Potatoes the third ; and Peas, etc., the fourth. The third plot is cropped with Onions, Turnips, Lettuce, and Cabbage the first year ; Potatoes the second ; Peas, etc , the third ; and Carrots, Beet, Parsnips, and root crops the fourth year. The fourth plot is devoted the first year to Potatoes only ; Peas the second ; Carrots, etc., the third; and Onions, Turnips, and the Cabbage family the fourth. Either of the two systems are good, and suitable for adop- tion on allotments or in vegetable gardens. They ensure a thorough change of crop, each requiring different food to the other, and so enable one kind of vegetable to make use of the surplus food not used by its predecessor. A gardener who follows such a system only has, as before explained, to trench or dig deeply for his tap-rooted crops, such as Carrots, Parsnips, Beet, etc. For all the others ordinary digging suffices. More- over, there is not the trouble or expense of manuring the plots to be cropped with Potatoes and tap-roots, so far as stable manure is concerned. Catch Crops. — In small gardens the most has to be made of a limited space, and, consequently, the land must, under such circumstances, be more or less under continuous cultiva- tion. Thus, where Celery is grown the trenches are usually made in spring, and the tops of the ridges utilised for growing dwarf French Beans or Lettuce. Newly planted Asparagus beds are often cropped with Lettuces or Radishes. Then, between the rows of early peas, one or more rows of summer Spinach are usually grown. Early Peas, too, are often sown along the lines of the late Celery trenches. Kale, Sprouts, Broccoli, and Brussels Sprouts are likewise planted between the rows of early Potatoes. Beds for Vegetable Marrows may also be formed early, and a crop of delicious Radishes grown 48 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. thereon before the space is required by the Marrows. The intelligent gardener ma}-, in fact, turn every square foot of ground to profitable account if he has his wits about him. But it must be clearly understood that he must not carry the principle of catch crops so far as to injure the main crops by over-crowding otherwise more harm than good will result. Successional Cropping. — Among other points to observe in cropping the land, the reader should, as far as possible, not allow land to lie idle, especially in summer time. Thus, the plot cleared of early Potatoes should at once be utilised for a new Strawberry bed or Spring Cabbage, while the early Pea plots will come in well for autumn-sown Onions, winter Spinach, or Turnips. He should bear in mind, too, that it is wiser to sow his main crop Peas fully eight feet apart, in order to allow sun and air to have full access to both sides of the rows. The space between can be profitably planted with green crops, such ws Kale, Broccoli, etc. To economise space, Parsley and Chervil may be sown as an edging to the plots. Herbs, too, may be grown in a similar fashion, or in a spare corner. Further hints on the subject will be found in connection with the cultural details of each vegetable further on. Points to Remember.— It is impossible to do more than lay down general rules for guidance as to cropping a garden. So much depends upon the size of the garden and the particular kinds of vegetables required. Generally speak- ing, however, the reader should avoid the following mistakes : — 1. Planting Cabbage, Broccoli. Cauliflowers, Kale, Savoys, Turnips, or, in fact, any member of the Brassica family in succession to each other. 2. Carrots, Parsnips, Beet, and all tap-rooted vegetables, should not follow each in succession. 3. Onions, Shallots, Leeks, and Garlic should not be grown in succession on the same plot. 4 In no case should vegetables of the same natural order succeed each other. 5. Plots that have been devoted to Rhubarb, Seakale, Asparagus, and Herbs should not again be cropped with pi manent crops for at least three y ars <*$*> «8» «$» 4fc ^ <4&° MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS. Planting. — In planting and transplanting vegetable crops, I here is need for more care and skill than beginners are apt to bestow upon such operations. Slovenly and unskilful planting not only hinders the proper development of a crop, but also has a bad appearance in the vegetable garden. In the first place, care should be taken to have the rows quite straight, using a garden line stretched quite taut for the purpose. Always eh< ose showery weather, if possible, for planting, as then the moist earth will encourage U c plants to establish themselves better than if planted when the soil is dry. If planting cannot be done in showery weather, plant late in the day when the sun is less powerful, and give a good watering afterwards. Never expose the roots of the plants to the sun. Cover the plants with a rhubarb or cabbage leaf till required for planting. Once the roots of a plant become dried by the sun, the fine ones shrivel, and a severe check to growth is given. Purchased plants or roots of Asparagus should, if dry on arrival, be soaked in water for a few hours prior to planting. Tender plants like Cauliflowers, Marrows, and French or Runner Beans should, for the first day or so after planting, hi covered by an inverted flower-pot. Remove these when the sun ceases to shine. When planting, use a trowel in preference to a dibber. If a dibber be used, make the hole fairly large, and not any deeper than the roots. See that the soil is pressed closely to the roots, and not merely at the top only, thereby leaving a hollow space round the roots below. All plants should, as a general rule, be planted deep enough for their seed leaves or cotyledons to just touch the surface of the soil. It is a mistake to allow cabbage plants to remain in the seed bed until they have long stems, and then plant the roots so that 50 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. they reach the sub-soil. Firm planting is essential ; loose planting means an imperfect growth and yield. Watering. — This should preferably be done in the evening. If done when the sun is shining brightly the water will scald the leaves. Moreover, the sun rapidly evaporates the moisture and with it the warmth of the soil, thus lowering the tem- perature. Never give mere driblets ; it is more economical and useful to give sufficient water to moisten the soil thoroughly for a foot or more beyond the plant than to pour it close to the stem only. Cold spring water ought not to be used till it has been exposed to the air and warmed by the sun. If seed beds are watered in the day-time, place a mat over the bed till the sun loses its power. When liquid manure is to be applied in dry weather, moisten the soil first with water. Mulching. — Cauliflower, Carrots, and most garden crops grown on light or sandy soils are benefited by mulchings of decayed manure or lawn mowings. These materials conserve the moisture, and shield the surface roots from the hot rays of the sun. Seed Sowing. — This requires to be done with great care, otherwise, no matter how good the seeds are, many of them will refuse to germinate freely. To ensure the seeds ger- minating well the surface soil should be in as fine a tilth as possible. They require warmth, moisture and darkness to germinate. They also require air, and if the soil is properly tilled all these essential conditions will be forthcoming. Each seed contains besides the germ of life a certain amount of reserve food to sustain the embryo plant till it can form roots. This food is in the form of starch. When the seed is placed in the soil it absorbs moisture and oxygen, and heat is produced. This in turn forms a substance called diastase, which changes the starch of the seed into sugar, and also renders the albuminoids soluble, so that both may be absorbed by the embryo plant. Until the little plant has formed its first true leaf it feeds upon the substances just mentioned, after which it starts on an independent existence, obtaining food from the soil by means of its roots, and food from the air MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS. 51 by means of its leaves. If the seeds are buried in badly tilled soil, and fail to get oxygen from the air, the chemical transfor- mation of the starch into sugar cannot take place, and the contents of the seed decay instead. It will thus be seen that good seeds must be obtained that contain an ample supply of reserve food in the form of starch, that the soil must be well tilled, sweet, and amenable to the ingress of oxygen, which, with the aid of moisture, will facilitate the chemical change in the seed necessary to perfect germination. Fig. 1. A Lesson in Sowing and Thinning Carrots* The three left-hand roots were sown thinly, and were thinned out early, thus ensuring good shaped roots. The right hand roots were sown thickly, and aoi thinned, hence are ill formed. Then there is another important point, the proper depth for sowing the seeds. If sown too deeply they would fail to get sufficient air ; if sown too shallow, they would probably fail to get enough moisture. Broadly, fine seeds like those of the Cabbage and Onion do not require to be sown deeper than an inch, those of the Parsnip and Carrot an inch, and those of the Pea and Bean from three to four inches. As before indicated, light should be excluded till germination takes place. Seeds ought to be 5> VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. sown, as far as possible, when the soil is not too wet and cold. If seeds lie long in a cold, damp soil they will rot rather than germinate. Then as to the quantities of seeds sown. Generally speaking, seeds are sown far too thickly. This means a waste of seed, failure of the seeds to germinate, through the mass overheating during the first stage of germination, and decay consequently setting in, and much labour afterwards in thinning out the crop. Far better sow thinly as advised in connection with each vegetable, and so avoid unnecessary waste of set d and trouble in thinning. The quantities to sow a row of given length are described in the table at the end of this work. Longevity of Seeds. — Many people make a practice o" saving such seeds as remain unsown one }*ear to the next year, or longer. Although many kinds of seeds may be preserved for several years, it is not a good practice to do so, as such seeds lose a good deal of their virility, and the produce is con- sequently more or less impaired. There is no doubt that if really good crops are desired, it is better to purchase new seeds yearly, and to discard the old. However, those who desire to know the length of time seeds may be safely kept for future sowings are referred to the table at the end of the book for the information. Seedlings. — Directly the seedlings are well up, and have formed their third leaf, those that have to be planted out per- manently elsewhere should be accorded the following special treatment. Thus, all members of the cabbage family should be carefully lifted and replanted four to six inches apart in nursery beds. This lifting breaks off the tap-roots and causes numerous side roots to form. Then, by being given a fail- amount of room between the plants, they develop a sturdy, bushy habit, have short stems, and when finally lifted and planted out permanently, they not only make stronger plants, but yield finer "hearts" or "heads." Leave the seedlings in a thick mass in the seed bed, and they will produce weak, lanky stems, a main tap-root, and few side roots, and when planted out finally will either "bolt," i.e., produce "hearts" pre- maturely, or yield a poor crop. Transplant early, and give MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS. 53 plenty of room, and your labour will be well spent and your reward a splendid crop. Thinning Out. — Such seedlings as do not require to be transplanted, as peas, carrots, beet, &c, should be thinned out as soon as large enough to handle. This will be when it can be clearly seen which are likely to make the best plants. If seedlings remain long crowded together, the roots of such crops as Carrots, Parsnips, and Beet will become ill shapen and stunted in growth. Thin out early, and the plants reserved will have finer shaped roots or bulbs, be more vigorous and healthy in growth, and generally much more satisfactory than those left to fight for supremacy in crowded rows or beds. The distances to thin crops to are given in connection with each vegetable- Seed Saving. — Many growers like to save their own seeds, but unless the vegetable be of a first-rate strain it is unwise to do this, much better results being obtained from purchased seed that has been selected and properly harvested by experts. Besides, a change of seed from one soil or district to another is decidedly beneficial. Still, for the benefit of those who desire to save their own seeds, we give a few brief details. Asparagus. — Choose the strongest shoots in the sunniest part of the bed for seed bearing. When the berries are fully ripe in autumn, gather the largest and dry them thoroughly; then store in a cool, diy place till spring, when rub out the seeds. Broad Bean. — Select the finest pods for seeds, let them remain on the plant till the foliage withers, then pull up the plants, and hang them in a dry place till the pods are thoroughly dry, when remove the seeds. Beet. — Select a few of the finest roots, lift in autumn, store in sand till March, then plant out in a sunny spot. When the flower stems show, support them with stakes, and when the seeds are ripe, gather, dry, clean, and store away. Cabbage Family. — Lift the plants early in spring and re- plant them in a sunny spot. Support the flower stems with stakes. When the pods turn brown, rub out the seed, clean it and store away. Only one kind of Cabbage, Broccoli, &c, Fig. 2. How to Thin Vegetable Crops. References: Fig. 1, onions thickly sown; Fig. 2, the same after thinning; Fig. 3, correctly, sown; Fig. 4, the same thinned ; Fig. 5, planted-out onions; Fig. 6, correctly-sown parsnips or beet; Fig. 7, ordinary method; Fig. 8, correctly thinned. MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS. 55 should be allowed to flower at the same time, otherwise seeds true to the variety will not be obtained. Only the very finest plants of the variety should be retained for seed bearing. Capsicums. — Save the finest pods and gather when quite ripe. Store the pods in a dry room till the seed is wanted, then remove it from the pods. Caruoon.— Seed cannot be ripened in England. Carliot. — Select the finest roots when lifting, cut off their tops, not too close, and preserve in sand till March, then plant in good soil m a sunny spot. As the seeds ripen gather them, lay them on a cloth in the sun, and rub out the seeds when quite dry. Cblery. — Plant a few plants in a trench and earth them only a little. The following March lift and replant in a sunny spot on the level. Supply freely with water in dry weather. Support the flower stems with stakes, and gather the seeds in autumn, afterwards thoroughly drying them before cleaning and storing away. . Chicory. — Gather the fruit when quite ripe, remove the seeds frorn the pulp by washing, then dry and store away. Cucumbers. — Carefully fertilize one or more female blooms, and mark them so that when the fruit forms they may not be cut. In due course large fruits with bottle-nosed ends will form. These must be allowed to remain on the plant till they are fully ripe or begin to decay. Cut them open, then remove the seeds, and place them in water to cleanse them. Those seeds which sink to the bottom are the best ; those that remain on the surface or suspended in the water should be rejected. After a thorough cleansing rub them well in clean cloths, and then expose them to the sun to dry before storing away. Endive. — Select autumn sown plants, protect these in severe weather, and plant out in a sunny spot in March. Support the flower stems with sticks, and gather the seeds as they ripen, spreading them afterwards on a cloth to dry before rubbing or storing. Kidney and Runner Beans. — Select the finest pods for seed purposes, tying a piece of bast round each stalk to show which are retained. Gather any other pods, as they form, for cooking. 56 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. When the pods are brown gather and dry them, then store in their pods till required for sowing. Leeks. — Lift some of the best plants in March, and replant them in a warm spot. Support the flower stems with sticks. Gather the heads when they turn brown in autumn, tie them in bunches, and hang in a dry shed till the seeds are required, then rub them out Lettuce. — Select good specimens for seed bearing ; and only allow one variety to flower at the same time. As the seeds ripen gather the heads, and p'ace on a cloth in the sun to dry. Afterwards clean and store away. Onions. — Select some of the finest bulbs after lifting, then replant them in February, in drills three inches deep, in a warm border, or if only one bulb is to be planted plant it with a dibber to the depth mentioned. The stems must be supported by stakes. Gather the heads in September, or earlier if ripe, by cutting the stems their full length. Lay the heads on a cloth in the sun to thoroughly dry, then hang up in a cool, dry shed, rubbing the seeds out when required. Parsley. — Lift the best shaped plants as soon as they can be selected and plant them in a sunny spot. The seeds will ripen the following summer, about July, when gather, dry, rub out, and store away Parsnips. — Select the best shaped roots at lifting time, then replant them in a sunny position. Gather the seeds the following August, dry thoroughly in the sun, then rub out and store away. Peas. — Mark the best shaped pods as early in the season as possible, by tying a piece of bast round the stalks. When the pods turn brown gather, dry in the sun, and store in the pods till required for sowing. Potatoes —Here seeds and not tubers are referred to. The former are to be found in the berries borne on the stems. Unless the flower was, however, cross fertilized beforehand with the pollen of another good variety, with a view to obtain- ing an improved variety, we do not recommend seeds to be saved. The berries should be gathered when quite ripe, the seed carefully removed therefrom, dried, and then stored in packets till sowing time. Radishes. — Select the finest roots, lift and transplant MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS. 57 them two feet apart in May, in good soil, and in September the pods will be ready for gathering. Place them in the .sun to thoroughly dry, then remove the seeds and store in packets till sowing time. Salsafy, Scorzonera, and Skirret. — Let the roots remain in the ground till the following year, when they will pro- duce ripe seeds in autumn. Gather them, dry thoroughly, rub out the seeds, and store away. Seakale. — Allow one or more plants to grow without re- moving any shoots for cooking. In due course they will flower and bear seeds. When the pods turn brown, gather, dry, and store away in canvas bags, rubbing out the seeds when required for sowing. Spinach. — Allow one or more plants to grow without removal of their leaves. These will flower and bear seeds, which can be gathered when ripe, dried, and stored away till required. Tomatoes. — Select the finest fruit only, gather when fully ripe, then cleanse, dry, etc., as advised for Cucumbers. TrjRNirs. — Lift the best shaped roots in autumn, and re- plant two feet apart in a sunny position. No other member of the cabbage family must be allowed to flower at the same time. Gather the pods when ripe, dry them, then remove the seeds and store in canvas bags in a cool, dry place. Vegetable Marrows. — The fruit of these and gourds should be allowed to remain on the plants as long as possible, then be cut and stored in a room till thoroughly ripe, when remove the seeds, wash them thoroughly clean, dry them, and then store in packets. " Bolting " of Crops. — When Broccoli or Cauliflowers form " hearts " prematurely, and Celery forms flower stems early, the plants are said by gardeners to "bolt." This con- dition is due in the former case to allowing the plants to remain too long in the seed bed before transplanting ; the plants consequently get checked in their growth, and are in- duced to form "hearts" prematurely. In the case of Celery, allowing the seedlings to remain crowded in seed boxes, or if transplanted into further boxes, to remain so long that they have absorbed all the nourishment, are both serious causes of 58 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. checks to development and of precocious flowering. Generous treatment from the first, absence of coddling, overcrowding, or starving, are the best preventives of " bolting." Tools, Etc. — No one can cultivate a vegetable garden properly without suitable tools. First and foremost among essential tools is the spade. This is necessary for dig- ging and trenching, as well as other important operations. A really good one should be obtained — one that will always maintain a sharp edge and a bright appearance. Next in importance is the fork. A four-pronged, broad-bladed one is essential for digging purposes ; a four-pronged, narrow-bladed one for surface tillage and potato lifting ; and a still lighter one for spreading manure. A set of good iron rakes, varying from four inches to a foot in widih, are also needful for sur- face tillage and seed sowing. Then, among hoes, draw hoes are necessary for making drills, and thrust or Dutch hoes for soil aeration and cutting down weeds. A useful tool is a four- tined prong, by means of which the surface of the soil between growing crops may be frequently stirred. A pickaxe and a shovel also come in useful occasionally. Other useful and necessary tools are a trowel, hand-fork, garden line, dibber, potato dibber, measuring rod, wheelbarrow, truck basket, water-barrow, and water-can. Such tools as spades, forks, hoes, rakes, trowels, &c, should always be washed or wiped quite clean when done with, and afterwards rubbed over with a paraffin oil rag. This will pre- vent the iron rusting and keep the working parts bright and easier to work than if put away dirty. Other useful appliances for rearing and protecting early crops are handlights. The handlight, shown in Fig. 3, is not difficult to construct, and any amateur who can handle a plane, hammer, and saw will be able to put one together in a few- hours, whilst the cost of the material amounts to only one or two shillings, according to the size of the light. They can be made any size desired, but handlights less than twelve inches square are of very little use, whilst any larger than two feet three inches square can hardly be described as handlights. Fig. 3 shows a handlight two feet square, with wood sides and ends, and glass top. The height at the back is twelve inches, MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS. 59 and at the front nine inches, and the sides and ends are of three-quarter-inch board. The glass is fixed in grooves in the sides, back, and bar down the centre. As everyone does not possess a grooving plane, it will be as well to describe another method of fixing the glass. Procure some laths, one inch wide and quarter inch thick, and nail one along the sides and back, Fig. 4 Fig. 5. Fi. . 3. F.g. 6. Garden Haniilights. near the top, as shown in Fig. 4, and also a similar lath along the top, shown in the same sketch. This will form a groove for the glass to slide in. The glass bar down the centre of the light should be fairly substantial, as a handle will be fixed to it. That shown in Fig. 5 is two inches deep by one inch wide. The groove is formed in a similar manner to the remainder, a lath being nailed each side and one on the top, the latter being BO VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. one and a-half inches wide. Fit it between the back and front, and screw with two screws at each end. The glass is held in position by a wood or iron button fixed on the front, as shown, and when required, air or ventilation can be obtained without moving the light by turning the button and lowering the glass ; also, as no putty is used in glazing, a broken pane can be replaced in a few minutes. Fix the handle as shown, and paint two coats to complete it. A handlight with a span roof or top and wood sides and ends is shown in Fig. 6. This would lie made in a manner very similar to the previous hand- light, except that the glass should be fixed with sprigs or tacks, and putty. Fig. 7 shows a handlight with glass sides, ends, and top. This would be too complicated in construction for an amateur, except those who possess a good chest of tools and are skilled at joinery. The outer framework should be one and a-half inches square, rabbeted for glass, and the glass bars one and a-half inches by seven-eighths of an inch. A price could be obtained from any joiner for making this handlight, which would be found useful for many purposes. Seed Store. — In large gardens where a quantity of seeds have to be kept, drawers should be provided in which to store the packets. On a small scale the seeds may be stored in an ordinary box fitted with a lid. A cool, dry room or shed is the best place for a seed store. Preparing Vegetables for Exhibition. — Really good vegetables are often spoiled by careless preparation. You cannot be too careful in washing tubers and roots Use a soft sponge and plenty of water to remove dirt, and take care not to fracture the skin. Dry each tuber carefully with a soft, dry cloth. Trim off all rootlets and dead leaves, and generally make each vegetable neat and clean. Full off the rough outer skins of Onions. Wrap each root or tuber in tissue paper, pack the heaviest in the bottom, and the lighter ones on top. Beans, peas, tomatoes, and other special kinds should be packed separately in small boxes. Cucumbers require very careful handling, and are best packed in narrow boxes. Soft wool is a good substance to use for packing purposes, though when good moss is obtainable this may be used instead. Be careful MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS. 61 in the selection of the exhibits, choosing only the very best examples of each. Staging Exhibits. — A good deal of practice is required to enable anyone to set up a collection of vegetables attractively. Collections are sometimes staged in round baskets and some First Prize Collection of Autumn Vegetables. This collection includes potatoes, tomatoes, celery, leeks, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, lettuce and onions. times on tables. If the former are used, fill them with hay, cover with a layer of moss or parsley, and then arrange the vegetables on top. The larger vegetables, such as Cabbage, Cauliflowers, Turnips, Beet, Parsnip, etc., should be arranged at the back, Potatoes and Onions at the sides or the middle, 62 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. with Tomatoes, Peas, Beans, and Cucumbers more to the front. It is impossible to teach a novice the exact method of arrange merit in print ; he should visit the shows, take note of the styles adopted by leading exhibitors, and follow their example as far as possible. The exhibitor should aim at making his collec- tion as attractive as possible by setting each vegetable up so that it will show its good jnoints to the best advantage. He should be particularly careful not to stage defective or faulty specimens, or attempt to hide the latter by placinu- them at the bottom and the good ones on top. An experienced judge will detect weak or faulty specimens at once. Moreover, great care should be taken not to add more than the number of specimens stated in the schedule. Avoid staging coarse, overgrown specimens. Those of a medium size and otherwise perfect in form, shape, colour, and freshness, will generally stand a better chance of winning a prize than excessively large ones. When you have staged your exhibits, spray them with water, and cover with paper till judging begins. The exhibitor should be careful to distinguish the meaning of the words " varieties " and "kinds" If a schedule contains a class for "six distinct kinds of vegetables," the exhibitor must only stage one variety of Pea, one of Potatoes, one of Onions, one of Turnips, one of Beet, and one of Cabbage. If he shows two varieties of Cabbage, Peas, etc., he will — or ought to be — disqualified. The word " kind " means one of a family, and the word " variety " two or more of a family. Thus, supposing a prize to be offered for " a collection of vegetables, six varieties," an exhibitor would be justified in staging six varieties of Peas or Cabbage. To make this point still clearer, the word " kind " would exclude Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Broccoli, Kale and Savoys from being shown as distinct kinds. These are all members of one family, and consequently only one could be exhibited as a "kind." Number of Vegetables to Exhibit.- A dish of anyone kind of vegetable should, unless otherwise specified in the schedule, contain the following number : — Tomatoes and Potatoes, Beet, Carrots, Parsnips, Leeks, Onions and Turnips, six of each; Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage and Savoys, three of MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS. 63 each ; Cucumbers and Vegetable Marrows, two of each ; Brussels Sprouts, Peas and Beans, twenty-five of each. Herbs should be shown in neat bunches, such as may be comfortably held in one hand. Protecting Crops. — To secure early or late crops of a few kinds of vegetables it is necessary to resort to some method of protection. Thus, Cauliflowers planted out early in spring- require the protection for a time of cloches or bell-glasses, or hand-lights. The cloches are made of glass with a knob at the top, and the usual size is sixteen inches wide and deep. The bell-glasses are also made of glass with a hollow knob at top for ventilating purposes, and of a similar size to the latter. Hand-lights are usually made with a corrugated frame work, and glazed with glass. They are made in square, hexagonal and cone shapes, and are the most useful of the three kinds for garden work. These may be placed over tender plants or small seed beds outdoors. Cold frames are also useful for blanching Endive, protecting Cauliflowers and young Lettuce in winter, rearing Celery from seed in spring, forcing Asparagus, and many other purposes. Simple frames glazed with Willesden waterproof paper are useful in spring for rearing Celery, etc., from seed. Every vegetable garden should, therefore, contain a few hand-lights, bell-glasses, and cold frames. Packing Vegetables. — Where it is desired to send ' vegetables by rail or post to friends, the following rules should be strictly observed. The best receptacles to use for regular consignments by rail are strong hampers furnished with iron bands, staples, and lock and key. Two keys should be pro- vided, one to be retained by the sender, and the other by the receiver. A couple of wooden labels with the address of the receiver on one, and that of the sender on the other, should also be provided. These are better than ordinary labels. The two should be connected by a stout piece of twine, and when the hamper is packed, the receiver's label should hang outside, and the sender's be placed inside before closing the lid. When the hamper is unpacked the labels have simply to be reversed for the return journey. For small, casual consignments, ordinary hampers fitted with lids will suffice. In packing, line 6l VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. the bottom and sides with rhubarb or cabbage leaves, and put in the heavy vegetables, such as Potatoes, Carrots, Parsnips, Onions, and Turnips, first. Next put in Cabbage, Kale, or Savoys, then follow with Beet, Lettuce, Kadishes, Peas, Beans, Celery, and so on. Cucumbers should be wrapped in rhubarb leaves, and Tomatoes in tissue paper, placing both firmly between softdeaved vegetables. Finish off on the top with Lettuce, Spinach, or Herbs, sufficiently high above the rim to ensure the contents being firm when the lid is pressed down. Where possible, it is a safer plan to wrap Cucumbers and Tomatoes in tissue paper, and pack them in small boxes, embedding these among the other vegetables. Mushrooms also travel best when packed in two layers, stalks downwards, in shallow boxes. The main points to remember in packing are to place the heavier and coarser vegetables in the bottom, and the lighter and choicer ones on top. All vegetables should be washed clean, and in the case of Lettuce, Cabbages, etc., have all coarse or decaying outer leaves removed. Firm packing is essential. It requires a great deal of practice to pack vegetables so that they reach their destination in good condition. Small quantities of Salading, including Cucumbers and Tomatoes, may be sent in shallow wooden boxes, using rhubarb leaves or grass to fill vacant spaces. Those who want to know how to pack vegetables for market are advised to procure the set of four Shilling Handbooks " Vegetables for Profit," edited by ourselves, and published hy the publishers of the present work. Retarding Vegetables. — It sometimes happens that vegetables reach maturity too quickly, and it is desirable 01 necessary to retard some of them for a later occasion for home use or for exhibition. We will therefore give a few hints how the desired object may be attained. Thus, Asparagus, French and Runner Beans may be gathered and placed with their cut or stalk ends in shallow pans or saucers of water in a cool, dark cellar for several days. Cucumbers, again, may be treated in a similar fashion. Broccoli and Cauliflowers may be cut and stored for several days in a dark cellar ; or the plants may be lifted and replanted in a north border, or hung up head downwards in a cellar or cave. Brussels Sprouts will MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS. t>6 keep plump and fresh for several days in a dark cellar. The crop of Leeks may be retarded by lifting and replanting in a north border in spring. Late Lettuce may be lifted in autumn and stored in frames till required. Peas ma}' be treated similarly to Runner Beans. Radishes will keep fresh and crisp if bunched and placed in shallow saucers of water. So, too, will Seakale, Vegetable Marrows, Ridge Cucumbers, Water- cress, and Herbs. It is not always possible to get the desired number of vegetables on any particular date, but by gathering and storing the best daily as they attain the desired maturity, the object is attained without difficulty. PESTS AND DISEASES. Vegetable crops, like other occupants of the garden, have their enemies, as the lists given further on will show. It is true, some of those described are not very hurtful to crops, but we have deemed it advisable to include all that experience has shown to be capable of doing more or less injury to vegetable crops. The grower should bear in mind the important fact, that it is most essential he should do all in his power to prevent the various pests and diseases gaining a foothold in his garden. Thorough cultivation of the soil at all seasons, burn- ing all refuse and diseased plants, occasionally liming the soil and paying strict attention to the cultural details given in connection with each vegetable, will enable him to guard against the numerous pests and diseases to a very great extent. It is invariably the slovenly cultivator who allows infested weeds and vegetable refuse to accumulate in his garden who is bothered most with pests and diseases. Directly a pest or disease makes its appearance it should be promptly got rid of, before it has time to propagate and spread over a wider area. Let the grower's motto be " A stitch in time saves nine." We first of all give a list of the principal crops, with the pests that attack the blossoms, leaves, fruit, roots, and seeds, also the special diseases peculiar to each. This will serve as a guide to the identification of the pest or disease, and having obtained this information, the reader can then turn to the fuller description of each pest or disease, and see what remedies are advised for their eradication. PESTS AND DISEASES, 67 Crops, their Pests and Diseases- Asparagus Pests and Diseases. — Leaves — Asparagus. Beetle and Garden Pebble Moth Caterpillars. Disease — Asparagus Rust. Beet Pests and Diseases. — Leaves — Beet Carrion Beetle, Beet Fly, Turnip Fly. Roots — Leather Jacket Grub, Dart and Pot-Herb Caterpillars. Disease — Beet Rust. Borecole Pests and Diseases. — Leaves — Blue Cabbage Flea, Cabbage Aphis, Cabbage Butterflies, Garden Pebble Moth and Cabbage Moth Caterpillars, Cabbage Powder-wing Fly, Slugs and Snails. Roots — Cabbage Fly and Turnip Gall Weevil, Leather-Jacket Grub, Dart, Pot-Herb and Yellow Under-wing Moth Caterpillars, Millepedes and Wireworms. Diseases — Black Rot, Club-Root, and Seedling Cabbage Disease. Br«cc«li Pests and Biseases. — See under Borecole. Brussels Sprouts Pests and »iseases — See under Borecole. Brsad Bean Pests and Diseases. — Leaves — Black Aphis, Pea and Bean Weevils, Slugs, Snails, and Birds. Seeds — Bean Beetle. Disease — Bean Rust. Cabbage Pests and Diseases. — See under Borecole. Capsicum Pests and Diseases. — Leaves — Thrips and Red Spider. Diseases — None. Cardoon Pests and Diseases. — None of any consequence. Carrot Pests and Diseases. — Flowers — Carrot Blossom Moth Caterp'llar. Leaves — Carrot Aphis, Common Flat-Body Moth Caterpillar. Roots — Carrot Fly Grub, Leather-Jacket Grub, Millepedes, Wireworms, and Yellow Under-wing Moth Caterpillar. Seeds — Carrot-seed Moth Caterpillar. Diseases — Canker and Rot, and Carrot Disease. Cauliflower Pests and Diseases.— See under Borecole. ■d 2 C8 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Celery Pests and Diseases. — Leaves — Celery Fly Maggot. Stems— Celery-stem Fly Maggot. Disease— Celery- leaf Blight. Celeriac Pests and Diseases. — See under Celery. Chicory Pests and Diseases. — Practically none of any consequence. Chinese Artichoke Pests and Diseases. — None. Cucumber Pests and Diseases. — Fruit — Wood-lice and Cockroaches. Leaves — Red Spider, Thrips, and Greenfly. Roots — Eelworms. Diseases — Cucumber Leaf Blotch, Mildew, and Rot. Dandelion Pests and Diseases. — None. Egg Plant Pests and Diseases. — Leaves — Red Spider. Endive Pests and Diseases. — Leaves — Aphis, Slugs and Snails. Roots — Leather-Jacket Grub, Pot-Herb. Dart, and Yellow Under-wing Moth Caterpillars. Diseases — None. Garlic Pests and Diseases. — Sec under Onions. Globe Artichoke Pests and Diseases. — Roots — Cockchafer Grub and Wireworm. Disease — Artichoke Leaf- Spot. Good King Henry Pests and Diseases. — Practically none. Gourd Pests and Diseases. — Leaves and Shoots — Aphis. Diseases — None. Herb Pests and Diseases. — Leaves — Various Cater- pillars. Diseases — None. Hop Pests and Diseases. — Leaves — Aphis and Red Spider. Diseases — None. Horseradish Pests and Diseases.— Leaves— Garden Pebble Moth Caterpillar. Diseases — None. PESTS AND DISEASES. 69 Indian Corn Pests and Diseases.— None of any consequence. Jerusalem Artichoke Pests and Diseases. — Roots — Root Aphis. Diseases — None. Kidney Bean Pests and Diseases. — Blossoms — Pea and Bean Thrips. Leaves — Red Spider. Seeds — Pea Weevil and Beetle. Diseases — None. Kohl Rabi Pests and Diseases. — See under Borecole. Leek Pests and Diseases. — See under Onions. Lettuce Pests and Diseases. — Leaves — Cabbage Moth Caterpillar. Roots — Dart, Ghost, Pot-Herb, and Yellow Under- wing Moth Caterpillars, Lettuce Root Aphis, and Wireworms. Seeds — Lettuce Ply. Disease — Lettuce Mildew. Mint Pests and Diseases. — Pests — None. Disease — Mint Rust. Mushroom Pests and Diseases. — Pest — Woodlice" Disease — Mushroom Disease. New Zealand Spinach Pests and Diseases. — Prac- tically none. Onion Pests and Diseases. — Roots — Brassy Onion Fly and Onion Fly Maggots, Millepedes and Wireworms. Diseases — Onion Smut, Mildew, Scab, and Sclerotinia. Parsley Pests and Diseases. — Leaves — Aphis. Disease — Canker. Parsnip Pests and Diseases. — Leaves — Cabbage Aphis, Cabbage Butterfly, Diamond-back and Garden Pebble Moth Caterpillars, Turnip Fly, and Turnip Sawfly. Roots — Cabbage Fly, Cabbage Gall Weevil, Leather-Jacket Grub, Dart, Pot-Herb and Yellow Under-wing Moth Caterpillars, Millepedes and Wireworms. Disease — Parsnip Mildew. Pea Pests and Diseases. — Blossoms — Pea Thrips. Leaves — Pea Weevils, Birds, Slugs and Snails. Seeds— Pea 70 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Midge, Pea Moth larva, and Pea Seed Weevil. Diseases— Pea Mildew, Pea Spot, and Seedling Pea Blight. Potato Pests and Diseases. — Roots — Wireworms and Millepedes. Diseases — Potato Disease, Potato Rot, Black Scab, and Scab. Radish Pests and Diseases. — Leaves — Birds and Turnip Flea Beetle. Roots— Radish Fly Maggot. Diseases — Radish Mildew. Rhubarb Pests and Diseases. — Leaves — Slugs and Snails. Roots — Wireworms. Diseases — None. Salsafy Pests and Diseases. — Leaves — Parsnip Fly. Roots — Wire worm. Diseases — None. Savoy Pests and Diseases. — See under Borecole. Runner Bean Pests and Diseases. — See under Kidney Beans. Scorzonera Pests and Diseases. — See under Salsafy. Seakale Pests and Diseases. — None. Shallot Pests and Diseases. — See under Onion. Skirret Pests and Diseases. — None. Spinach Pests and Diseases. — Leaves — Slugs, Snails, and various Caterpillars. Diseases — Spinach Mould. Tomato Pests and Diseases. — Leaves — Snowy Fly, Red Spider, and Aphis. Roots — Wireworms and Eelworms. Diseases — Potato Disease, Black or Brown Stripe, Black Spot, Bacteriosis, Bacterial Disease, and Yellow Spot Disease. Turnip Pests and Diseases. — Leaves — Turnip Aphis, Turnip Fly, Turnip Sawfly, Turnip Leaf Miner, and Diamond- back Moth Caterpillars. Diseases — Finger and Toe, and Bac- terial Disease. Vegetable Marrow Pests and Diseases. — Leaves - Aphis. Diseases — Cucumber leaf Mildew. PESTS AND DISEASES. 71 Vegetable Crop Pests. Aphis or Green Fly. — There are many kinds of Aphides infesting crops, but the only one we shall refer to here is that commonly known as " Green Fly " (Rophalosiphon Dianthi). This sometimes attacks cucumbers, tomatoes, turnips, and other plants, sucking the sap out of the cells of leaves and shoots, and crippling the growth of the plants. As all the species of Aphides multiply exceedingly rapidly it will be apparent that they must not be allowed to increase, other- wise the crops infested will be seriously injured. Green Fly being so well known and easily recognised it will be unnecessary to give a detailed description of it. Remedies. — There is no better or easier way of getting rid of this pest under glass than by fumigating with one of the advertised nicotine preparations. Where fumigation is not practicable nor desirable, then syringe with one of the adver- tised insecticides, or with the following mixture : Add one pound of soft soap and one pound of quassia chips to three gallons of water, boil this for three hours, then strain off the liquor, and add three gallons of water. Soft water is best, and the liquor is most efficacious when applied in a warm state. In the case of lettuce and radishes infested with Aphides spray the plants with the above mixture. Asparagus Beetle (Crioceris asparagi). — This is a most destructive insect pest. The beetle is about the size of a rather small house fly ; it is red and yellow, with black spots and black legs. The beetles may often be seen about the beds while the asparagus is being cut, and every one should be killed. They somewhat resemble the ladybird in colour, but are longer, and not so wide. One beetle will lay hundreds of 3ggs on the stems and leaves in late spring ; the eggs hatch out in a few days, and the larvae commence eating the leaves, leaving nothing but bare stems. When plants are badly infested no fiood asparagus will be produced from the crowns the following year. Remedies. —The best way of destroying the larvae ia to poison the leaves they are eating. This may be accomplished by spraying the foliage with Strawson Swift Arsenate of Lead 72 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Paste Fluid, or with Clift's Liquid Insecticide in summer. In autumn lightly fork into the bed oneof the soil fumigants, as Apterite, Clift's Powder Insecticide, Kilogvub or Vaporite, to asphyxiate the pupae. Bean Aphis or Dolphin Fly (Aphis fabse). — Besides the names given above, this pest is also known as the " Collier," " Black Fly," and " Black Dolphin." It belongs to the "greenfly" family, but we deal with it separately because of its great importance. The young Aphides are slatey-grey in colour, and the female and male of a blackish hue. The Aphides will be found swarming in clusters on the points of the shoots, and, if unmolested, will speedily cover the shoots and leaves with a sticky juice, filthy to handle, and decidedly detri- mental to the plant. The Aphides increase very rapidly, and will soon destroy the plants and the prospects of a crop. Uemedies. — If plants are badly infested there is no remedy, as the insects will have sucked all the nutriment, out of the shoots, and completely paralysed the growth. In the latter case, the plants should be promptly burnt. Where only a few Aphides are seen, nip off the tops into a pail and burn them, or trample them well underfoot, or syringe the plants with the following mixture : — Dissolve one pound of soft soap in one gallon of water, remove from the fire, and add a wineglassful of paraffin oil. Stir thoroughly together, and add water to make three gallons. When the liquor is cool syringe the plants with it. Dusting with lime and soot is also a good remedy. Beet Carrion Beetle (Silpha opaca). — This is a small black beetle barety half au inch long, and covered with yellow hairs. It is a common pest frequently met with feeding on dead animals, but is also very partial to the leaves of the beet and the mangold. The grubs or larva? are, however, the most mis- chievous. They are black and shiny, like a woodlouse in shape, and a third to half an inch in length. They feed chiefly at night, and do the greatest damage in spring. Uemedies. — Where very troublesome spray the foliage at night with an emulsion of soft soap and paraffin. Dissolve one pcu.ul of soft soap in one gallon of boding water. Remove PESTS AND DISEASES. 73 from the fire and add a wineglassful of paraffin oil, ako water to make tbre6 gallons, and apply when cold. Dressings of soil fumigants, as Apterite, Cliff's Towder Insecticide, Kilogrub, and Vaporite, dug into the soil before sowing, will kill these and all other earth grubs. Beet or Marigold Fly (Anthomyia Beta;). — This is the parent of small yellowish-white or greenish maggots which feed on the pulp or inner tissues of the leaves of beet and mangold. The leaves in consequence shrivel, and the growth of the plant becomes severely checked. The fly lays its white eggs on the under sides of the leaves. In due course maggots are hatched, which pour through the outer skin, and devour the pulp. When fully grown the maggots escape, bury them- selves in the soil, and eventually develop into flies. Remedies. — The best remedy is a preventive one, namely, to encourage the plants to grow sufficiently vigorous to resist the attack of the maggots. Keeping the soil well stirred dis- turbs the flies, and prevents them laying their eggs. A dressing of one of the above soil fumigants before sowing will prevent a future attack of this pest. Birds. — These probably do more good than harm in the long run, by helping to clear the land and the crops of inju- rious insect pests. But it must be admitted that they do not confine their attention to this good work. On the con- trary, they show a marked partiality for the seeds and the seedling's of the radish, and in that way do a great deal of harm in some seasons and in some districts. Remedies. — To prevent birds eating seeds put the latter in a saucer or dish, moisten very slightly, then sprinkle powdered red lead over them, and well stir till the seeds are properly coated. Spread the seeds out to dry, then sow them. A small quantity of paraffin oil sprinkled over the seeds before sowing will be equally efficacious. Rows of peas may be protected by means of pea guards, or by bending sticks over and placing fish netting thereon. Strands of black cotton stretched over seed b'ids will frighten away birds, and dustings o' soot and limf render the leaves dis- tasteful. 74 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Blue Cabbage Flea (Halticaconsobrina).— This is a tiny, violet-coloured beetle, the parent of a small six-legged maggot which forms tunnels in the tissues of cabbage and turnip leaves. The maggots feed on the soft tissues, and do much injury to the leaves when young. Remedies. — The main point to observe is to encourage the crops to grow freely in their earlier stages, by using artificial or liquid manures. Liberal liming in February, and using the hoe freely in summer, will help to reduce these pests. Tick off the worst infested leaves and burn them. Cabbage Aphis (Aphis brassiose). — This pest is a relative of the Common Greenfly, and attacks the undersides and folds of the leaves of cabbage, kale, Brussels sprouts, in fact all members of the cabbage tribe. It injures the foliage by sucking the sap, and in due course causing it to become Cabbage Aphis. (Winged Male and Wingless jfeinale, both greatly magnified.) deformed and sickly. The Aphides are the most prevalent in summer, and particularly so in dry seasons. The insects are of a yellowish colour when young. Later the females assume a greenish tint, and are covered with meal. Remedies. — Prompt measures should be taken to get rid of the Aphides when first discovered. The best remedy is to spray the foliage with "Abol " Wash or Cliffs Liquid Insec- ticide. Cabbage Fly (Anthomyia brassicte). — The larvte of this PESTS AND DISEASES. 78 fly, and of an allied species, A. radicum, attack the lower part of the steins of cabbages and allied crops, eating their way into the tissues, causing the stem to decay and the plant to die. Plants infested with the larvae have leaves of a leaden hue that readily droop when the sun shines on them, also the base of the stem and the roots are furnished with swollen lumps, within which are the maggots. The latter are about one-third of an inch in length, white, and legless. The fly lays its eggs low down on the stems of the plant, and the maggots appear a fortnight afterwards. Cabbage-Fly and Larvae Magnified. Remedies. — Pull up and burn all plants that show signs of attack by drooping. As a preventive apply a dressing of Apterite, Cliffs Powder Insecticide, Kilogrub, or Vaporite, digging this well into the soil before planting. The gas emitted will asphyxiate the pupae, and prevent them de- veloping into flies later on. Cabbage Butterflies.— Three kinds of butterfly larvae infest cabbages, savors, and allied crops, namely the Large White (Pieris brassicte), Small White (Pieris rapre), and the Green Veined (Pieris napi). The butterflies are white, or greenish-white, marked with a darker colour, and are easily recognised flitting about the crops during the day. The caterpillars aie greenish, marked with yellow stripes and dark dots. The Large White Butterfly lays its eggs in clus- ters underneath the leaves, the others singly. The cater- pillars, when hatched, eat their way into the hearts of the cabbage and render them unfit for eating. 76 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Remedies. — Syringe the plants with "Abol " Wash or Clift's Liquid Insecticide directly the caterpillars are seen. Repeat the dose if the first one fails to kill all the larvae. Small and Large White Cabbage Bdtteefly. a Caterpillar ; b Chrysalis ; c Butterfly. Cabbage Powdered-wing Fly (Aleyrodes proletella). — This fly attacks all the members of the cabbage family by congregating on the undersides of the leaves, and sucking out the sap from the cells. Plants attacked turn yellow or brown in their foliage. The j'oung insects are covered with small scales, and adhere firmly to the leaf. "When they reach maturity they have white wings, and float in the air like tiny snowflakes. Keued-ies. — Tlie best remedy is to remove the leaves con- taining the young insects and burn them. Where the insects can be readily reached spray with the solution advised for Cabbage Aphis. Cabbage Moth (Mamestra brassicacV — The caterpillar of this moth is one of the worst pests that attack cabbages, savoys, cauliflower, broccoli, geraniums, dahlias, clematises, and many garden plants. It eats its way into the hearts of the cabbages and cauliflowers, and renders them unfit for PESTS AND DISEASES. 77 use. The eggs are laid on the leaves. When first hatched the caterpillars are of a pale green colour, but as they get older they change to a darker hue. As a rule it is the autumn crops that are attacked most by the Cabbage Moth Cater- pillar. Remedies. — When the young caterpillars are first seen the hearts of the cabbages and cauliflowers should be carefully examined, and the insects picked off by hand. The late Miss Ormerod advised powdered gas-lime that had been exposed to the air for some months to get rid of its poisonous proper- Cabbage Moth and CATERPirxAB. ties, to be sprinkled freely over the hearts of the plants. A vigorous syringing with an insecticide on the upper and under sides of the foliage will check further injury, if not kill the pests. Before planting dig in one of the soil fumigants de- scribed on p. 75. Carrot Fly (gsila roste). — The maggot or grub of this fly is responsible for the formation of the rusty patches on the roots of carrots. The flies, which are small, lay their eggs on the roots of the carrots in early summer. When hatched the maggots at once bore into the soft parts of the roots, 78 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. form cavities, and generally disfigure the latter. The mag- gots are yellowish-white, shiny, and a quarter of an inch long. Carrots attacked by this pest have pale foliage and a stunted growth. Remedies. — To guard against a possible attack give the soil a dressing of Apterite, Cliffs Powder Insecticide, Kilo- grub, or Vaporite before sowing the seed, in order to de- stroy the pupse and prevent them developing into flies. If one of the above be used there will be no trouble with the Carrot Fly grub. Carrot Seed Moth (Depressaria depressella). — The small brownish-grey, dark-spined, and hairy caterpillars of this moth feed upon the flowers and seeds of the carrot and parsnip. Remedies. — As the larvae let themselves down to the earth by a thread when disturbed, the only way to catch them is to hold a tray smeared with treacle on one side, and then to shake the blossoms quickly over this. Celery Fly (Tephritis onopordinusV— This insect attacks the leaves of parsnips, celery, and parsley. The fly is about one-sixth of an inch long, of a brown colour, with two trans- parent wings and green eyes. The female deposits her eggs within the skin of the celery leaves, where they are hatched, producing small green larvae, which cause large blisters upon the leaves. These larvae, or maggots, cause complete or rapid decay of the leaves. The brown pupae of this fly are found on the leaves of the host plant, and in the earth ; as a rule, the maggots leave the host plant and turn to pupae in the earth. There are several broods during the year, but the pupae last produced hibernate in the soil until the following spring, when they appear as perfect insects and renew the attack. Remedies. — Owing to the maggots feeding within the leaves, it is difficult to apply any insecticide that will reach them without at the same time destroying the leaves. Picking off the portion of leaf infested, and burning the collected por- tions, is the only remedy once the maggots are in the leaves. The flies may, however, be prevented depositing their eggs by spraying the foliage occasionally with the fol- PESTS AND DISEASES. 79 lowing preparation : Mix half a gallon of tar with a gallon of water, and place this on a fire till it boils. When cool add fifty gallons of water, and then spray the foliage tho- roughly with it. Another good plan is to pour as much paraffin oil on a piece of hearthstone as it will absorb, then steep this for a day or two in three gallons of water. Re- move any scum that forms, then spray the foliage. Spray- ing should be done during May, June, and Julj r . Before preparing the trenches dress the ground with one of the soil fumigants previously described, to destroy the pupse and prevent them developing into flies. Celery-Stem Fly (Piophila apii).— The fly is somewhat similar in size and form to the Celery Fly, which see. It has a black, shiny body, clothed with golden hairs. The maggot is yellowish-white. The latter bores into the root stock of the celery, and thence upwards in the leaf-stalks, causing rusty brown patches to form. Remedies. — There is only one, and that is to burn all infested plants, and dress the soil with one of the soil fumi- gants to kill the pupoe. Cockchafer Beetle (Melolontha vulgaris).— The Cock- chafer Beetle measures about an inch in length, has a black body covered with grey down and reddish-brown wing cases. The female lays its eggs beneath the surface of the soil, and from these are hatched flesh- white grubs with curved bodies. The grubs remain three years in the larval stage, and appear as beetles in May or June. The grubs feed on the roots of plants. Remedies. — The only satisfactory remedy is to pick out and destroy the grubs when digging, and to use one of the soil fumigants previously described. Common Flat Body Moth (Depressaria applana). — This small moth deposits eggs on tlie young foliage of carrots and parsnips, and in due course slender, green caterpillars appear, which fold the leaflets together, and feed upon them. Remedies. — Shake the plants to dislodge the caterpillars, then spread soot or lime on the ground; this will kill them. SO VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Crickets (Gryllus domesticus). — The House Cricket is partial to the fruit of cucumbers, disfiguring them by gnaw- ing the rind. Remedies. — Use one of the beetle poisons sold by chemists. Dart Moth (Agrotis segetum}. — A surface caterpillar, the progeny of the above moth, is harmful to turnips. The male moth has grey fore wings and white hind wines, and the abdomen and thorax are also grey. The hind wines of the female are white, while the fore wings as well as the ab- Dart Moth, Caterpillar, and Chrysalis. domen and thorax are brown. The larvae feed on the roots and the leaves of turnip plants during the night. They are about an inch long, and feed during the winter if circumstances are favourable (mild weather, etc.); but ,f not, they hibernate in earth cells. In the following spring they are transformed into brown pupae in the earth, where they remain for about a month, and then develop into moths. Remedies. — The same as advised for the Heart and Dart Moth. Diamond Black Moth (PJutella cruciferarum).— Fortu, PESTS AND DISEASES. 81 nately this pest is not very common, but when it is prevalent in certain districts its larvre do an immense amount of injury to the turnip foliage, devouring all except the ribs. The caterpillars are almost half an inch long, of a delicate green tint, and with a yellow or grej'ish head. The moth is similar in size and shape to the clothes moth. Diamond Black Motii. Remedies. — Directly the caterpillars are discerned on the foliage, apply soot at the rate of half a bushel per square rod, either in showery weather or early in the morning, whilst the foliage is moist with dew. Kelworm (Tylenclms devastrix). — These are micro- scopic animals, which infest the cells of the roots of many plants, more especially cucumbers and tomatoes. The pre- sence of the Eelworms in the cells causes small knots or excrescences to form on the roots, thereby rupturing the cell walls, and disorganising the sap movement. A sure indica- tion of the presence of Eelworms in the cells is the gradual drooping of the foliage, limpness of the stem, and the yellow tone of the leaves. As the Eelworms increase, the symptoms become more marked, and the plant suddenly collapses and dies. Eelworms find their way into the roots from the soil. Once they are in the cells or tissues there is no remedy that will kill them without at the same time destroying the plant. Remedies. — The onl} r thing that can be done with infested plants is to burn the roots. Under no circumstances must 82 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. fresh plants be put in the soil. To guard against a future attack thoroughly mix l?,lb. of Vaporite with each cartload of compost, and let the heap remain for six weeks before using. Doubtless the other soil fumigants, previously men- Cocumber Root Eelwosm (Tyleachus devastatrix). tinned, would be equally efficacious if tried. After an attack of Eelworm under glass the walls and beds should be washed with one part of carbolic acid to eight parts of water before putting in new soil, PESTS AND DISEASES. 83 Garden Pebble Moth (Pionea fo.-ficalis). —This moth is the parent of a yellowish-green caterpillar marked with a line of dark spots on each side, and with a body slightly tapering at each end. It feeds on the leaves of the cabbage, horseradish, and turnip daring June and July, and again in autumn. Two broods are born yearly. Remedies. — Pick off the caterpillars by hand; dust with hellebore powder and flour or soot in the morning whilst the foliage is moist with dew. Ghost or Otter Moth (Hepialus Humuli\ — The larva of this moth are creamy-white or whitish-yellow with a reddish- brown head, spiny, and when full grown measure one and a half to two inches long. They feed during the autumn and winter months beneath the surface of the soil, on the roots of lettuce, hops, and other plants. Remedies. — When plants are seen to be drooping examine their roots for the presence of the larvse, which are easily discovered by their colour. Dressing the ground with one of the soil fumigants will destroy both larvae and pupa?. Heart and Dart Moth (Agrotis exclamationis). — The larva is known as a SurfaoJ Caterpillar. The Heart Heart and Dart Moth and Caterpillar. and Dart Moth is of an ochreous colour; the fore-wings are brown, while the hind-wings of the male are white, those of the female being brown. The larvae feed on the leaves during St VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. the night, while in the daytime they hide themselves in the earth. The larvae are about an inch and a half long, and furnished with tubercles, and when mature construct earth- cells in which they are transformed into pupa?. The latter are of a reddish-brown or chocolate colour, and hibernate in the earth-cells until the following season. Remedies. — The only way to cope with this pest is to dig in one of the soil fumigants before sowing or planting, to destroy larvae and pupae. Leather-Jacket Grub (Tipula oleracea). — This is one of the most insidious of garden pests. Unfortunately it carries on its nefarious work by night, and consequently is rarely caught in the act of gnawing the stems of lettuce, cabbage, carnations, and pansies. The Leather-Jacket, so called be- cause of its tough, leathery skin, is the larva of the Daddy Long-Legs, or Crane Fly (Tipula oleracea). The latter fly deposits its eggs at the base of the stems of grasses in pas- tures or lawns, and from these are hatched tawny, legless grubs, with an abrupt or truncated tail. The grubs work their way through the soil, or come to the surface at night, and feed on the stems of plants and grasses. Remedies. — There is only one way of dealing with this pernicious pest, and that is digging in, in autumn or prior to planting, one of the soil fumigants described elsewhere. Lettuce Fly (Anthomyia lactucae). — The larvae of this fly feed on the seed of Lettuce, and occasionally ruin the crop. The larvie are yellowish-white in colour, a quarter-inch long, and footless. The fly is about the same size as the housefly, brownish-black, with brown wings, and laj-s its eggs in the blossoms in early summer. Those, therefore, who grow let- tuce for seed should take special care not to allow the maggots to exist in large numbers. Remedies. — See that the seed before sowing is free from the pupae of this insect. Plants infested with the maggots should be burnt at once. Lettuce Root Aphis (Pemphigus lactucarius). — Large lettuce plants sometimes droop and look sickly. On pulling up the plant the roots will be found infested with insects, PESTS AND DISEASES. 85 having- their bodies clothed with fine cottony down. These are the Lettuce Root Aphides. They cluster round the base of the stem and on the roots, and suck out the sap from the cells. Remedies. — Burn every infested plant, and dress the land afterwards with Apterite, Clift's Powder Insecticide, Kilogrub, or Vaporite. Mice. — These often do much harm in the garden, eating the seeds of peas, etc. The best remedy is trapping. The old figure-of-four (see illustration) is one of the best traps still extant, as it seldom gets out of order, even in the most frosty weather. It is easily made and put up. If a few of these are always kept baited with toasted cheese they are sure to attract any mice within a short distance of the place. S==^ ->s b"%= ^ A Simfle Mouse-Trap. The traps are made as follows : Take a common lath and split it down the centre; then cut an upright piece about 4in. long, the top of which should be made wedge-shape, and the bot- tom quite flat. Another piece should be made. This should be wedge-shaped at the lower end, and have a notch cut in at the other, to fit on the upright (see B). A third piece, made 86 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. longer than the others, and extending two or three inches beyond the perpendicular one, should next be made (see A). On the end of this the bait should be tied. The front end has a notch cut in to receive the wedge ef the slanting piece, and another is cut on the side so as to take the upright. A slate or tile should be laid on the ground, and near one end the upright piece be stood. Bring the slanting one next in position, the end with the cut made in it being placed on the top of the other, the lower end of which is made to fit into the horizontal one. The weight of the slate or tile resting on the upper end of the slanting piece will hold them in posi- tion until something pulls at the bait, when the whole falls down together. Damping the seeds, then rolling them in powdered red lead before sowing, or strewing chopped gorse along the drills over the seeds, are other preventive methods often practised. Millepedes (JulusV — These small, active little animal-, commonly known as Thousand Feet, are sometimes a source of trouble to the gardener. Although their natural food is supposed to be decaying matter, they are known to attack the seeds of runner and kidney beans and peas soon after sowing, and either destroy the germinating power of the latter or weaken the embryo plant. There are at least three kinds that are hurtful to seeds — namely, Julus guttatus, an inch long, very slender, with an ochreous coloured body, spotted witli crimson ; Julus terrestris, which is about an inch long, leaden or pitchy in colour, and more or less cylindrical in shape; and Polvdesmus complanatus, a flat kind with a lilac- tinted body. All are furnished with a large number of legs. The Spotted Millepede (J. guttatus) may be found in clusters, devouring the seeds, especially in cold, backward seasons, when germination is retarded. The Millepedes are often mistaken for wireworms, but a reference to the illustrations of each will show that they are quite distinct. Remedies. — If the soil be dressed in autumn or before sowing or planting with Apterite, Cliff's Powder Insecticide, Kilogrub, or Vaporite, the Millepedes will speedily dis- appear and cause no further trouble. Mushroom Pest (Sciara ingenua). — These active little *^__-*- VEGETABLE PESTS. 1. Cockchafer Beetle and Larva. 3. Millepedes. PESTS AND DISEASES. s; insects often infest mushroom beds, and do considerable injury to the crop. Remedies. — Spray the walls, soil, and floor before spawn- ing with two and a half per cent, of lysol; or dissolve two ounces of salt in a gallon of tepid water, and sprinkle the beds, after soiling, with this. Onion Fly (Anthomyia ceparum). — Much mischief is done to onion, shallot, and garlic crops by the grubs or maggots of this fly. The flies deposit their eggs on the young onions in May, June, and July. The eggs speedily hatch into maggots, which at once commence to bore into and feed on the bulbs, and cause them to decay, and the foliage to turn j'ellow. The maggots feed for about a fortnight, and then leave the bulb and turn into chn-salides in the surrounding soil. In from ten to twenty days (in sum- mer) the flies appear and begin to lay another lot of eggs, so that bulbs previously uninjured are exposed to an attack. The grubs are white, legless, half an inch long, with a pointed head and a broad tail. Remedies. — All the plants affected should be carefully lifted with a trowel and burnt. Immediately each infested plant is dug up, pour a little paraffin in the hole to kill any maggots that may have escaped from the bulbs. Unless this precaution be taken the maggots will speedily find their way to the next healthy plant. Water the bed with a solution of paraf- fin and water — a wineglassful to a gallon. Keep the paraffin and water well stirred, then it will do no harm to the plants, but effectually destrov the maggots. Do not grow onions on infested ground for a season. Other preventive measures are sulphur — half-an-ounce to the yard — sown along the drills at the time of sowing the seed; or salt and soot — a peck of each mixed to a bed thirty feet by six feet — sown broadcast a day or two before sowing the seed, supplemented by light sprinklings — quarter - peck — at intervals of three weeks, choosing showeiy weather, if possible. Undoubtedly the best of all remedies is to dress the ground in autumn, o; before sowing, with one of the soil fumigants advised for Millepedes. 88 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Pea and Bean Thrips. — Although but little is known about the various species of thrips, it is very evident that considerable damage results among crops and greenhouse plants by their depredations. In vegetable gardens onions, cabbages, runner beans, peas, and potatoes are all subject to the attacks of the various thrips, whilst under glass we find a common example in the Black Fly, so frequent on cinera- rias. According to a leaflet published by the Board of Agri- culture, considerable damage was clone to the pea crop in Kent and Essex during the summer of 1897, due to the ravages of the thrips insect. This particular species was the Pea Thrips (Thrips pisivora). Specimens of injured plants were sent to the Board, and these showed the haulm to be well developed, while the flowers and pods were wanting. On some of the specimens were a few of the abortive flowers, and others with dry and withered calyces and petals, and a few pods containing no peas were distorted and turned brown by the attacks of the thrips. It is often found that the peas grow away well, and produce abundance of vigorous haulm and plentiful racemes of flower buds, but instead of these opening into blossom they shrivel up, become a twisted, shapeless bundle of petals, and then fall off, leaving nothing but the short petiole where a young pod should be. This is due to the Thrips larvaa, and also to the adult insects eating the pistil, stamens, and pollen within the unopened blossom, thus preventing the food from forming. The Scarlet Runner Bean Thrips is another common variety, doing great damage among the runner beans, and attacking the buds and blossoms in the same way as the Pea Thrips do on the pea crops. The Runner Bean Thrips was described at considerable length in a number of the "Journal" of the South-Eastern Agricultural College, and was stated to be quite distinct from the Pea Thrips. " The attack is discernible at first," says the writer, "on examining the blossoms; later on, still more so by the complete barrenness of the runners — a few flowers only, and here and there a dwarfed pod being seen. The lower petals first show signs of disease, becoming more and more shrivelled, until they are reduced to a mere crumpled mass; then the upper part of the blossom gradually dies away. Sooner or later the PESTS AND DISEASES. £0 flowers fall off from the top of the flower-stalk, leaving the petioles attached to the stem, looking just as if the bloom had been severed by a sharp knife." The female of the Scarlet Runner Bean Thrips is about one-sixteenth inch in length, the colour is almost black or dark brown, a few hairs are on the joints of the body, the wings are of a dull white, with three rows of spines, and the legs are deep yellow- brown. The larvae are of an orange colour, and the pupas are very like them, only paler in colour, and with small wings. Remedies. — The Thrips shelter during the winter in the earth and under the bark of trees or poles, in the dried grass, and other like covers. It is imperative, therefore, after an attack to destroy all such winter shelters, pea and bean sticks, etc., and a different crop should be sown on the ground the following year. Where spraying is employed, when the foliage is attacked, a mixture of four ounces of soft soap and a similar quantity of quassia chips to one gallon of water is useful, or one ounce of pyrethrum and one ounce of soft soap to eight quarts of water. Pea Midge (Ceeidomyia pisi). — The larva; of this small insect sometimes badly infest the young pods, feeding upon the peas, and causing the pods to turn yellow. Remedies. — Pods found of a yellowish colour should be examined, and if tiny white maggots are found within, burn them. Pea Moth (Endopisa proximana). — The reader will doubt- less have found many a pod of peas with a maggot or mag- gots inside, and wondered how they came there. Well, the culprit is the larva of a small moth which lays its eggs on the young pods in June. When the young maggots appear they bore into the pods, and feed upon the seeds. When the larvae are fully grown they leave the pods, and descend to the ground to become pupae, emerging as moths the next season. Remedies. — Gather and burn all infested pods. Pea Seed Weevil (Bruchus pisi). — A small weevil which deposits its eggs in the young pods. The larva bores its way 90 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. into the seed, but is not noticed until the latter has been harvested and stored, when its presence is noted by a hole in the seed through, which it has escaped as a perfect weevil. Remedies. — Practically none of any real service. Seed found infested should be burnt. It is said that exposing the seeds to a temperature of 125 deg. Fahrenheit will kill the larvae. Pea Weevils (Sitones lineatus, etc.). — These insects are very troublesome to pea crops in some seasons. The Striped Pea Weevil (Sitones lineatus) is probably the worst offender. It measures about a quarter-inch or less in length, is of a light clay colour, witli three whitish or ochreous stripes along its back, and several punctured stripes on its wing cases. The horns and legs are of a reddish tint. The other kind, the Spotted Pea Weevil (Sitones crinitusV is smaller, of a Sti;iij:d Pea Wjcevil. SrOTTED Pha Wjsevil, grey or rosy colour, and spotted with black. These weevils crawl up the stems of the peas, and nibble holes in the edges of the leaves; in bad cases, devour the whole of the soft parts. In the larval stage they are found near the roots of clover and peas. They sometimes appear as early as March, but chiefly in June and onwards. Beans, as well as peas, are liable to be attacked. Remedies. — When it is borne in, mind that the weevils feed chiefly at night, and hide in the soil below by day, it will be seen how difficult it is to cope with them." Syringing the plants in the evening with the insecticide described for the PESTS AND DISEASES. 91 Bean Ap his will render the foliage distasteful to the weevils, and help to prevent injury. If the ground be dressed with one of the soil fumigants this pest will not prove very troublesome. Pot-Herb Moth (Hadena oleracea).— The larvse of this moth feed upon the foliage of various vegetables, and also gnaw through the stems of young cabbages. The caterpillar is yellowish-brown in colour, marked with five lines — a dark one down the back, a pale one on each side, and a yellow one next. The moth appears in June, and the larvse in July, August, and September. Remedies. — See those advised for the Dart Moth larvse. Radish Fly (Anthomyia radicum).— The larvse of this fly, which are yellowish-white in colour, fleshy and wrinkled in their bodies, legless, pointed in front and blunt behind, attack the roots of the radish, and cause them to rot. For- tunately, they are not very numerous. The larvse of other species of the same genus also feed on the roots of radishes. Remedies. — Where the crop is known to be attacked, water the soil once a week with the following solution : Add a quarter of a pint of crude carbolic acid and a quart of soft soap to a gallon of boiling water. Mix thoroughly, then add this to twenty-five gallons of water. Dress the ground also with one of the soil fumigants. Red Spider (Tetranychus telarius). — This is a formidable plant pest, and one usually very prevalent in hot, dry sea- sons, and in glasshouses, especially in summer, where suffi- cient attention has not been paid to moisture and ventilation. It is a minute creature, orange or red in colour, and much resembling a spider in miniature. It is popularly spoken of as an insect, but it is not; it is a mite. Like the true spider, it also spins a web on the leaves on which it feeds. It first cuts a hole in the leaf by means of its mandibles, then thrusts in its sucker and extracts the juices. Hundreds and thou- sands of these are often to be met with on a vine leaf, pro- tected by a fine web. Needless to say, such a large number of these creatures in a small space does an incalculable D2 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. amount of injury to the foliage of cucumbers by robbing it of its proper nourishment. No wonder, then, that the leaves soon assume a yellowish tinge, become unhealthy, and speedily die. Remedies. — A hot, dry atmosphere is favourable to the increase of Red Spider; consequently, the best way to keep it at bay is to preserve, as far as possible, a moist atmosphere by syringing the walls, foliage, and paths daily, or where this cannot be done, by sprinkling flowers of sulphur on the heated hot-water pipes. Where leaves are badly infested, they should be sponged with soft soap and water, or thoroughly sprayed with Clift's Liquid Insecticide or "Abol " Wash. Leaves that have a sickly hue should always be carefully examined on the under sides, taking, at the same time, prompt mea- sures for the destruction of any Red Spider found therein. Glasshouses kept clean, moderately moist, and properly ventilated, are rarely infested with Red Spider. Rabbits and Hares. — In country districts, these do much injury occasionally, by devouring parsley and green crops. Remedies. — Trapping and shooting, or enclosing the gar- den with wire netting, embedded at the lowei side some three inches in the soil, and standing fully three feet out of the ground, are the only remedies. Root Aphis (Trima troglodytes). — This is a yellowish white, transparent insect, witli a hairy body and a woolly extremity. It is occasionally found on the roots of the Jeru- salem artichoke. Remedies. — If the crop be infested with these lice, do not plant any more tubers on the same plot for a year or two, meanwhile dressing the land with one of the soil fumi- gants. St. Mark's Fly (Bibio Maroi). — The latter is a dipterous or two-winged fly, the actual size of which is shown by the cross lines at the base of the illustration. It is popularly known among entomologists as the St. Mark's Fly (Bibio Marci), and has not hitherto been regarded as a setious PESTS AND DISEASES. 93 enemy to crops. The flies lay their eggs on dung heaps, and from these hatch the hairy larva: of the size shown in illus- tration. When the manure is spread on the land the larvae attack the roots of plants, somewhat like those of the crane- flies. St. Mark's Fly (Imago, Larva, and Pupa). Remedies. — Manure found to contain these grubs should be spread out thinly, and sprinkled with salt or slaked lime before adding it to the garden. Slugs and Snails. — Both, do a great deal of harm in the vegetable garden, especially among seedling endive, lettuce, and peas. Remedies. — Frequent dustings of lime and soot will do much to protect the seedlings, but undoubtedly the best plan is. to place heaps of bran a few feet apart over night, near the seedlings. The snails and slugs will quickly find these, and may be found congregated thereon next morning. The slug's and snaiis should then be collected and thrown into a strong brine pickle. A row of sawdust along each side of a row of peas will prevent slugs reaching the latter. Sprinkling the surface of the sod with a solution of Cliffs Liquid In- 94 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. secticide, or digging in one of the soil fumigants, will keep slugs and snails at bay. Snowy Fly (Aleyrodes vaparoriorum). — This insect, known also as the White Fly, and a relative of the Cabbage Powder- Wing Fly, is capable of seriously injuring tomato plants if allowed to be prevalent in glasshouses. They are small, white insects, very active when disturbed, and, like Aphides, suck the sap out of the cells of the leaves. The eggs are laid on the under sides of the leaves. Remedies. — Directly this pest is discovered, fumigate the house on two or three successive evenings with a nicotine preparation. As a preventive remedy mix flowers of sulphur with skim milk, paint the hot-water pipes with this, and make them fairly hot to throw off the fumes. Thrips. — There are few insects more destructive than these. The one which attacks cucumber plants is T. adoni- dum, a dark-brown four-winged insect, with a reddish tipped body, pale yellow eyes and limbs, and measuring one-twentieth of an inch in length. It is wonderfully agile in its habits, jumping away directly the leaf it is on is touched. The larvse, small whitish or yellowish maggots, are also fairly active, but they cannot jump. Both feed on the surfaces of the leaves and shoots, sucking out the juices, and causing them to assume a yellowish tinge and die. Not only do they injure the leaves, but also the young shoots. As a rule, they never get very numerous in glasshouses that have a fairly moist atmosphere. Remedies. — Sponging or syringing or spraying the foliage with a solution of one of the advertised insecticides, are the usual remedies. Fumigation with a nicotine preparation on three successive evenings generally proves successful. Tiger Moth (Arctia caja). — The larvae of this very hand- some moth frequently prove very destructive to the lettuce crop. They are popularly known as " Woolly Bears," owing to their bodies being covered with long hairs. The moths vary a great deal in colour, but may be easily distinguished by their coffee-brown and cream-coloured fore-wings, and PESTS AND DISEASES. 95 their reddish and blue-spotted hind-wings. The larvae are usually full-grown by the end of May. They feed on many plants, but are very partial to lettuces. Tioeb Moth and Caterpillar Remedies. — The only satisfactory way of getting rid of the larvae is by hand-picking. Dress the ground with one of the soil fumigants before sowing or planting. Turnip Fly (Phyllotreta nemorum).— Tbe Turnip Fly or Flea Beetle, is a small beetle about one-eighth of an inch in length, dark in colour, and with two white stripes down its back. It is an active little creature, and springs a good dis- tance when disturbed. The beetles attack the seedlings directly they appear above the ground, riddling the stems and leaves with holes, and destroying the plants. They do most harm on light soils and in dry seasons. When very numerous they will destroy the whole crop in a few days. Remedies. — The chief point to bear in mind is to encourage the seedlings to make vigorous growth from the first. This can be accomplished by the use of the artificial manures advised fo>c turnips. The beetles will not interfere with the seedlings after they have formed their rough leaves. Other 0J VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. remedies are to fix some tarred sacks or sheets to a roller, and then draw this over the ground. This will pick up a very large number of the beetles. Dusting the plants with lime or soot earlv in the morning whilst the seedlings are moist with dew, also spraying them with the following solution, are good remedies : Dissolve one pound of soft soap in one gallon of boiling water, add a wineglassful of paraffin oil, then mix this with three gallons of water, and apply with a sprayer. Weeds, such as charlock, etc., should not be allowed to grow in the fields, as these form a harbour for the beetles. Turnip or Cabbage Gall Weevil (Ceutorhynchus suleicollis) is a beetle which attacks the roots of the turnip and the cabbage. It is about a quarter of an inch long, and has two antennae, or feelers, one on each side of the snout. The female beetle punctures the roots and deposits an egg- in the wound. After hatching, a yellowish-coloured maggot lives, feeds, and grows to maturity within the turnip root, and thereby causes a gall-like excrescence on the turnip. The larvse, or maggots, are transformed into pupae in the soil, where they remain about a month enclosed in " earth cases." The perfect insect is black, and the elytra, or wing- cases, are marked with a number of dots and stripes. The galls formed on the roots are often mistaken for the " Club Root," " Finger-and-Toe," and "Anbury " disease. Remedies. — In the first place pull up and burn immediately every infested root. Secondly, when the crop is cleared, dress the land with one of the soil fumigants advised for the Celery Fly maggot. Turnip-leaf Miners (Drosophilia flava and Phytomyza nigricornis) are the grubs of two flies which feed upon the soft tissues of the leaves of the turnip. The Drosophilia is about one-tenth of an inch long, of a yellow colour, while its larvae are green, and live beneath the skin on the upper sides of the leaves. The Phytomyza is also about one-tenth of an inch long, but has a black body and slate-coloured wings. Its larva; burrow beneath the surface skin on the under side of the leaves. Remedies. — The remedies for these pests are identical with those suggested for the Parsnip Fly, which see. •" PESTS AND DISEASES. M Turnip Saw-Fly (Athalia spinarum). — The female insect by means of its ovipositor, or organ which aids in the laying of eggs, cuts small slits in the leaves of the turnip plants, and in each slit lays an egg. The female Athalia lays from two to three hundred eggs in a season. The eggs are hatched in from four to ten days. The black larva; (known as " Niggers ") feed upon the leaves of the infested plants, which they reduce to mere skeletons of fibres. In about twenty-one days the larvae retire to the ground, where they spin cocoons, in which they are transformed into pupae. In about three weeks the perfect insects appear, but if the pupae are formed late in the season they pass the winter in the cocoons already alluded to, turning to the perfect state in the following spring or early summer. The perfect insect is a black and yellow fly, w r ith short feelers or antenna 1 . Remedies. — A new birch broom or a few small boughs tied together and drawn over the rows of plants will dislodge the larvae. Once detached from the leaves, the larvae appear to have no power to regain their position on the foliage. Spray the foliage with "Abol " Wash or Cliffs Liquid Insecticide to destroy the caterpillars, and dress the ground with a soil funiigant to kill the pupae. Wasps, — These sometimes attack the stems of Jerusalem artichokes, peeling off the epidermis and causing the shoots to die. The only remedy is to destroy the nests. Wocdlice (Oniscus Armadillo). — These creatures some- times do a great deal of injury to mushrooms, and to the fruits of cucumbers grown in frames. They have been known to attack young tomato plants. Remedies. — Being night feeders they are difficult to detect. As they congregate, when not feeding, among rubbish, and in crevices of walls and floors, their numbers may be consider- ably reduced by pouring boiling water on the rubbish and Avails. Traps, consisting of dirty flower pots, half-filled with moss and laid on their sides, and potato tubers or mangolds with their interiors scooped out, form an excellent means of catching Woodlice. Beetle poison spread on bread and butter and laid about the beds will lure them to destruction. 98 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Wireworms. — The Wireworm is a most destructive pest to tap-rooted crops. It is the larva of an insect called the Click Beetle. There are several species — Elater (or Agriotis), obscurus, lineatus, and sputator. So far as their hurtful properties are concerned, there is no distinction between them. The parent beetle is a greyish or blackish insect, about half-an-inch long, and may frequently be seen on plants during the summer. The beetles lay their eggs on the ground or at the base of plants. In due course grubs are hatched, and these straightway bore holes into the roots or stems of plants. Adult grubs are easily recognised by their slender wire-like, jointed bodies, yellowish colour, and slow movements. Wireworms are said to exist four to five rears in the grub state, consequently their opportunities of injur- ing crops are extensive. Remedies. — Old pasture land and gardens that have been allowed to become neglected are liable to be badly infested with wireworms. Heaps of rubbish, too, are favourite haunts. Newly-broken-up or neglected land ought to be dressed with gas-lime three months before crops are sown or planted. Dressings of Apterite, Cliffs Insecticide, Kilogrub, or Varo- rite, liberally applied, will in time exterminate both 1 rvae ami pupae. Soil for potting should be carefully examined before using, picking out the pests by hand. Salt, too, should be freely sprinkled among garden rubbish placed in h j.:ps to decay. Yellow Undek-Wing Moth. Yellow Under-wing Moth (Triphrena pronuba). — The caterpillars of this moth attack the stems of young cabbages, VEGETABLE CROP DISEASES. 99 lettuces, etc., underneath the surface of the soil, causing them to wither and die. They feed during the night, and hide underneath stones and clods of earth by day. The caterpillar is an inch or more long, of a green and brown colour, streaked and spotted with rose, brown, and black. It has a fat, sluggish habit, and coils up when touched. When young plants are found with their stems bitten through, this cater- pillar is the culprit. Remedies. — Use the hand-hoe frequently to disturb the caterpillars, and bring them to the surface for birds to eat. Dress badly-infested, vacant ground in autumn with one of the soil fumisrants. Vegetable Crop Diseases. American Potato Scab (Oospora scabies).— A disease prevalent in America, but not common in England. It lias a similar effect upon the tubers to the Potato Scab. Remedies. — Authorities say that the presence of lime in the soil encourages the development of this disease, so that lime should not be used in the event of the disease attacking the crops. Steeping the tubers in the formalin solution advised for the Potato Scab will destroy the fungus. Artichoke Leaf Spot (Ranmlaria cirene). — This is a fungus said to be the cause of the leaves of globe artichokes becoming spotted and dying, and the plants consequently pre- vented from producing flower-heads. Remedies. — We know of none, and can only suggest burn- ing infected foliage to prevent the disease spreading. Asparagus Rust (Puccinia asparagi). — This fungoid disease has committed terrible havoc among the asparagus crop, especially in the Evesham district. It attacks the plants late in the year, and causes the shoots to turn black. The disease seriously weakens the growth of the plant, and ultimately kills it. e -2 100 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Remedies. — Spray the foliage every ten days during the summer with the Woburn Bordeaux Emulsion ; this acts as a certain preventive against attack. In the event of plants being infected the proper remedy is to cut ofi the foliage and burn it. Bacterial Disease in Tomatoes. — This is not of com- mon occurrence fortunately, but we make a brief reference Bacterial Disease in Tomatoes. to it here. According to Mr. G. Massee, F.L.S., the eminent expert in plant diseases, the bacteria exist in the cells of the plant, cause the woody tissues to be discoloured, and the leaves to droop and die. If an infected stem be cut the bacteria will ooze out in yellowish drops. Remedies. — Burning infected plants is the only remedy. VEGETABLE CROP DISEASES. ioi Bacteriosis in Potatoes. — A disease of bacterial origin, very prevalent in America, and may find its way here. The particular germ is Bacillus solanacearum, and its presence is indicated by the sudden drooping or wilting of the foliage, followed by discolouration and collapse of the stem. On cut- ting open a stem brown streaks will be seen, which are crowded with bacteria. The disease gradually spreads down- wards till the tubers are reached, where it first forms a pale zone, followed by a black one just inside. Rembtiies. — Burning all infected foliage and tubers seems to be the only way of stamping the disease out. Tubers with a brown ring similar to the one illustrated should not be used for planting. Bacterial Disease in Potatoes. Bacteriosis of Tomatoes. — A bacterial disease not very common in this country. The disease first commences in the eye of the fruit, and gradually extends, turning the skin dark. Remedies. — Gather and burn infected fruit, and do not save any seeds from fruit with discoloured eyes. Beet Rust (Uromyccs betas). — The foliage of beet is some- times badly attacked by a rusty mould which seriously cripples the growth of the plants. The fungus first shows itself in the form of minute cups with whitish edges and con- 102 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. gregated in clusters on the surface of the leaves. In due course these develop into a blackish-brown rust or mould. Remedies. — The best remedy is to spray the foliage with the Woburn Bordeaux Emulsion in June. When only a stray leaf here and there is attacked pick it off and burn it. "When the crop is lifted all infected leaves should be burnt, not left on the ground to rot, or given to pigs, other- wise the fungus will reappear the next season. Black or Brown Strpe Tomato Disease. - The stems and the fruits of tomatoes are sometimes marked with brown or black stripes, the result of a fungus working its way upwards from the roots. The name of the fungus is given by some authorities as Macrosporium lycopersica, while others attribute the disease to Fusarium solani, Macrospo- rium commune, var. solani, Sclerotinia sclerotiorum, and Black ok Bkuwn Stripe Tomato Disease. the Potato fungus. Whatever the actual fungus may be, it is enough for growers to know that the disease is a bad one, and must not be tolerated. It appears that the fungus first attacks the roots, and then ascends the stems, abstracting the cell contents, and disorganising the movement of the sap. In bad eases the fungus encircles the stem, cutting off the VEGETABLE CROP DISEASES. 103 sap supply, and causing the plant to wither and die. 'Die stripes or blotches on the fruit are first of all brown, then black. Sometimes the leaflets turn inwards and upwards, become brown, and discoloured streaks form on the fruit. Vi'hen plants are grown in over-rich soil brown spots appear mi the leaves, stems, and fruit, but these are thought to be due to the Potato fungus. Remedies. — In the case of plants or fruit infected with the Stripe disease, the proper remedy is to at once burn the lot. Fungicides are useless in such a case. As a preventive, it is advisable to steep the seeds in a solution of Condy's fluid, or in a sulphate of copper solution (half-pound to a gallon of water). Should any of the spores of the fungus be present on the seeds this will destroy them. It is also a good plan to add a sprinkling of fresh lime to the soil in which the seeds are to be sown. The soil in which diseased plants have been Single Potato Tuber affected with Black Scar. grown should also be cleared out of the house, and be dressed with quicklime. One grower recommends a pound of quick- lime to every square yard, to be added to the soil before planting. Black Rot of Cabbage (Pseudomonas campestris). — This disease has only recently made its appearance in Eng- 104 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. land,- but has been prevalent in America for some time. Its presence is indicated by the dwarfing or one-sided growth of the plants, and by the heads rotting off. Stems infected have a dark or brown ring in the centre, and the edges of the leaves turn brown. The disease is caused by a yellow bacterium. Remedies. — Burn every infected plant promptly, dress the vacant land with gas-lime, and do not grow any of the Cab- bage family on the same plot for a year or two. Whole Potato Root affected with Black Scab. Black Scab Potato Disease (Chrysophlyctis endo- biotica). A comparatively new disease, which is spreading Vegetable crop disease's. ics rapidly throughout the kingdom. It is easily recognised by means of its large warts, or black spongy scales, which form around the eyes on the surface, as shown in accompanying illustration. Remedies. — This disease is scheduled by the Board of Agriculture and Fisheries as a notifiable disease under the Destructive Insects and Pests Acts, 1877 to 1907. Any per- son who rinds his potato crop attacked by this disease must at once notify the fact to the Secretary, Board of Agricul- ture, i, Whitehall Place, London, S.W., who will send an inspector to deal with the diseased crop. The penalty for failing to report the disease is £10. Canker and Rot. — The cankery patches and rottenness of various roots are caused by wet seasons, sour and very heavy soils. There is no known remedy for these defects. Carrot Disease (Phoma sanguinolenta). — A fungoid dis- ease which attacks both the stem and the root of the carrot, causing sunken canker-like spots to form on the latter. Wherever the stems are to be seen coated with a minute mould, or the roots detected with sunken greyish-brown spots, it may be safely assumed that the disease is present. Remedies. — So far the only known remedy is to burn every infected stem or root, so as to destroy the fungus and pre- vent its reappearance another season. Celery Leaf Blight (Cercospora apii). — A fungoid disease which attacks the foliage of celery in wet seasons, and causes pale spots to form thereon. Remedies. — Once the plants are attacked the only remedy is to burn the infected foliage. Spraying with a carbonate of copper solution early in the season will prevent the fungus attacking the foliage. Club Root. — The disease which causes the roots of turnips, cabbage, and allied plants, also wallflowers, to become dis- torted, as so clearly shown in the accompanying illustration, is commonly known as " Finger and Toe," " Club Root," and "Anbury." It is caused by a minute organism which finds its way into the cells of the roots, and then develops, frac- 106 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. turing the delicate tissues and causing them to become putre- fied. The name of this organism is Plasmodiophora brassicae. It belongs to the Myxogastres or Slime Fungi family. At one time, according to Mr. George Massee, the greatest living Cr.TTB Root Disease. authority on plant diseases, the Plasmodiophora was con- sidered to be a fungus, but now it is thought by some to belong rather to the animal than the vegetable kingdom. Unlike the fungi, it does not produce mycelium, but other VEGETABLE CROP DISEASES. 107 bodies, capable of a sluggish movement, which unite to form a jelly-like substance called a Plasmodium. In due time the latter ceases to produce any movement, and then the jelly- like mass develops into spores. These spores escape from the roots into the soil, and there wait until the roots of a plant come in contact with them; then they enter by the spongioles, and are absorbed with the food into the cells. Once in the cells the spores begin to germinate, and to move about until they meet and coalesce, as already mentioned. The mass of organism increases in size, and either bursts the cell-walls or causes them to bulge out, so that in time the warts or protuberances called " Finger and Toe " are largely developed. If the inside of a turnip or cabbage root deformed like that figured be cut open the interior will be found to consist of a more or less black slimy substance, offensive to the smell. This is the disease. Remedies. — First of all, pull up and promptly burn every infected roots. If thrown on one side to decay, or given to the pigs to eat, the spores will, in due course, be transmitted to the soil, read)' to attack the first lot of roots placed in the ground. Plots or fields containing crops infected with " Finger and Toe " should not be planted again with the same kind of crop for several years. Land intended to be cropped with turnips or any of the cabbage family should be dressed with groundlime at the rate of one cwt. per twelveyards square of land. Lime destroys the spores, and does the soil good at the same time. Broken chalk may be used instead of lime, at the rate of ten cwts. per square rod. It should be applied in autumn. In the cultivation of the turnip and the cabbage family avoid the use of sulphate of ammonia and superphosphate, as the sulphur in the one and the acid in the other promotes the development of the disease. Cab- bages should be raised in beds heavily dressed with lime. Cucumber and Melon Mildew (Peronospora cub- ensis). — This fungus attacks the undersides of the leaves of cucumbers and allied plants in the form of a white mould or mildew. It spreads rapidly, and consequently soon spoils the crop. Not a very common disease. PvHmbdiks — Where only a single leaf or so is attacked 108 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. remove and burn them. As a preventive, spray the under- sides of the leaves with the Woburn Bordeaux Emulsion. K.I5A7 Cucumber and Melon Leaf Blotch (Cercospora melonis). 1. Infected leaf. 2 Magnified view of the fungus. 3. Fruit of the fungus. (From Board of Agrioulture Leaflet.) Cucumber Leaf Blotch Disease.— Although this disease was first observed as recently as 1896, it has spread so VEGETABLE CROP DISEASES. 109 rapidly as to be, at the present time, the most destructive parasite with which the cultivator of cucumbers and melons has to contend. Many market growers have been obliged to give up the cultivation of the crops, whilst others report a loss of £2,000 annually. The first symptom is the appearance of pale green spots, scattered about on the surface of the leaves. These spots gradually spread until they run together, and at the same time pass through a grey to a brownish colour. This is the fruiting stage of the fungus. If it be examined at this time with a lens, it is found to consist of a lot of fine, upright, brown threads, each bearing a fruit or "conidium" at its tip. These conidia are the reproductive bodies, and can be carried from diseased to healthy plants on currents of air, clothing, or insects. Sometimes the leaves dry up and fall to the ground, when the " mycelium " present in the tissues quickly grows, forming cobweb-like threads, which run on the surface of the soil, prouucing more conidia. Failing food, the disease passes into a resting state, in which form it may re- main inactive in the soil from season to season, only to spring into life again on the advent of warmth and moisture. These latter conditions are absolutely necessary to the pest, and so it can only attack plants under glass, attempts to inoculate plants grown outside having failed. There is said to be no risk of infection from the seeds. Remedies. — The foliage should be kept as hardy as pos- sible, by the admittance of as much air as possible, and the atmosphere should not be kept any moister than is absolutely necessarj 7 . Spraying in anticipation, with a solution of two ounces of potassium sulphide in three gallons of water, adding two ounces of soft soap, is recommended. The under sides of the leaves should be carefully sprayed and the soil well drenched with the solution if the disease is present. Diseased leaves should be removed and burnt. After a crop has been taken out, the soil should be soaked with a solution of "Jeyes' Fluid," one ounce to the gallon of water. Cucumber Rot (Hypochnus cucumeris). — A fungus which in the form of a grey, film-like growth, attacks the stems of cucumbers near the soil, causing them to die. 110 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Remedies. — None are known. Burning the infected roots and stems will prevent the disease spreading. Lettuce Mildew (Bremia lactucre). — A minute fungus which covers the under surface of the leaves of lettuce, chicory, and wild composite plants generally, with a fine white mould. In course of time the infected leaves turn yellow and die. Remedies. — The safest remedy is to pull up and burn every plant infected. It would not be safe to spray the plants with fungicides, on account of the poisonous properties of the latter. Mint Rust (Puccinia menthse). — This is a fungus which attacks the stems of mint and allied plants, causing them to become swollen and distorted, and utterly spoiling the crop from a market point of view. The fungus appears first in orange-coloured masses on the stems, and later on as blackish-brown powdery pustules on the leaves. Remedies. — -There is only one, and that is of a drastic character, namely, lift the infected plants and burn them. It is useless applying fungicides. Dress the ground after- wards with ground lime, and grow mint in a fresh plot. , Mushroom Disease (Hypomyces perniciosus). — Young mushrooms are sometimes attacked by a minute fungus, a species of Hypomyces, which covers them with a delicate web- like mycelium, or with a white or rose-tinted mould. Mush- rooms so attacked do not delevop. The spores are easily wafted by the wind, and settle on the walls, floor, and soil. They are also said to be introduced with the spawn. Remedies. — All diseased mushrooms should be burnt to pre- vent the spores escaping. The roof, walls, and floor of mush- room houses should be sprayed with a solution of one pound of sulphate of copper to fifteen gallons of water. Spray at intervals of three days for a fortnight. Onion Mildew (Peronospora schleideni). — A fungus which VEGETABLE CROP DISEASES. Ill frequently does serious injury to the onion crop. It occurs in the form of a mould on the leaves. At first its presence may be detected by yellowish patches, followed later by a white, and then a greyish-lilac mould. The disease causes the leaves to shrivel and the growth of the bulb to be stunted. Remedies. — Mix two parts of slaked lime with one of sul- phur, and dust the plants early in the morning whilst the dew is on the foliage. Spraying the foliage with a solution of sulphide of potassium and water — half an ounce to a gallon — is another good remedy. All diseased plants should be promptly burnt, and onions not be grown on the same land for three years. Onion Scab (Vermicularia circinians). — Fortunately not a very common disease. It appears in the form of small, black velvety tufts, disposed in concentric circles on the outer scales of the bulbs. These black patches disfigure the bulbs, and practically render them unusable. Generally speaking, the disease manifests itself most on fully-grown bulbs. Remedies. — When storing the bulbs, reject every one pos- sessing the faintest tinge of the scab, otherwise the fungus will infect the healthy bulbs and spoil them. Diseased bulbs should not be left on the ground, but be promptly burnt. Onion Sclerotinia (Sclerotinia bulborum). — A fungoid disease appearing in early summer, in the form of yellow blotches on the leaves, followed by an olive-brown mould. The mycelium of the fungus eventually descends to the bulbs, and develops into a blackish mouLl which completely covers them. Remedies. — Spray the foliage, directly the yellow patches appear, with the Woburn Bordeaux Emulsion or sulphide of potassium — half an ounce to a gallon of water. When lift- ing the crop, reject and burn every diseased bulb. In the case of a bad attack, do not grow onions on the same plot for three years. Onion Smut (Urocystis cep ilas). — This is a black mould 112 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. (fungus) which attacks seedling onions, and speedily kills them. At first the leaves are attacked, and then the bulbs. Remedies. — The only remedy known is to pull up and burn all infected plants. Parsnip Mildew (Peronospora nivea). — The roots of parsnips are sometimes attacked by the foregoing fungus, which causes the former to become putrescent and unfit for food or sale. Remedies. — All roots that show signs of going rotten should be promptly burnt to destroy the fungus and prevent the latter spreading another season. Pea Mildew (Erysiphe Martii). — A fungus, or m ldew, which attacks peas very badly in some seasons, and prac- tically ruins the crop. The fungus first turns the leaves of a yellow tint, then coats the surface with a fine white growth, similar to ordinary mildew. Soon after, this dense coating becomes dotted with small black bodies containing the spores of the mildew. The disease is more prevalent in very dry or very wet seasons. Remedies. — Spray with sulphide of potassium and water if the mildew attacks the foliage only very slightly; if badly, the best plan is to burn the plants. Pea Spot (Ascochyta) — A fungoid disease which attacks the pods of peas, causing pale spots to form on them, and making them more or less deformed in shape. Not a serious disease. Remedies. — Spraying with the Woburn Bordeaux Emul- sion, if very prevalent; gathering and burning the infested pods in isolated cases. Potato Disease (Phytophthora infestans). — This is the dreaded disease which commits so much havoc among the potato crop in wet seasons. It first manifests itself in the form of brown patches on the leaves, followed by curling of the latter, and finally by their becoming black and decayed. The disease is caused by a fungus, the mycelium of which VEGETABLE CROP DISEASES. 113 penetrates the tissues of the leaves and destroys them. In due course the mycelium develops what are technically known as conidiophores, or tiny stems which appear in the form of a mould on the surface. On the conidiophores are borne conidia, which give birth to zoopones. These coming in con- tact with globules of water emit germ tubes that penetrate the epidermis of the leaf or tuber, and eventually form the mycelium which does so much mischief to the tissues. The mycelium will often lie dormant in the tubers all the winter, and start into activity when new growth begins in the soil. The disease is mostly prevalent in rainy seasons. The fungus also attacks tonrato plants grown in a moist, stagnant atmo- sphere, the spores, under such conditions, easily germinating, followed by the development of thread-like growths, which penetrate the cells, destroy the chlorophyll, and cause the decay of the leaf and fruit. Remedies. — Once the disease has made itself manifest, the only remedy is to burn the infected haulm and tubers. On no account should either be allowed to lie on the ground, or be given to pigs, as the disease will retain its vitality and reappear the next year. Nor should tubers from infected crops be used as " seed." Of late years preventive measures have been adopted with great success. Spraying in good time before the disease appears with the Woburn Bordeaux Emulsion is a sure and safe preventive. In the case of toma- toes the best remedy is a preventive one. For example, houses should be well ventilated, and the atmosphere kept fairly dry. Outdoor crops should be sprayed with the Woburn Bordeaux Emulsion, or dusted with " Fostite," an anti-blight powder, applied with Melbac bellow r s. The former should be applied about twice in the season, before tlie fruit is too far developed, and the latter frequently. In both cases it is not advisable to apply the remedies after the fruit begins to ripen. Badly infected plants are best burnt. Potato Scab (Sorosporium scabies). — A fungoid disease which causes olive-coloured, scab-like eruptions of a super- ficial nature to form on the surface of the tubers, which render them unsightly. It has been found by experiment that tubers grown in sour soils, or where artificial manures 114 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. containing acids, as superphosphates and dissolved bones, nave been lavishly used, are most susceptible to infection. Remedies. — As a preventive of scab, place the seed tubers in a coarse sack, and steep this for two hours, prior to planting, in a solution of formalin and water — half a pint of commercial Potato infected with Scab. formalin to fifteen gallons of water. After doing this, spread the tubers out to dry, then plant. Soils that are periodically limed are less likely to promote the development of the disease. Radish Mildew (Peronospora parasitica). — Not a serious disease. It attacks the foliage in the form of a white mould or mildew. Remedies. — Spraying with a sulphide of potassium solution. Sclerotium Disease of Potatos (Sclerotinia sclero tiorum). — This is a fungoid disease which attacks the stems of potatos just above the ground. It is in the form of a white mould, which gradually creeps up the stems, and develops into small black bodies called sclerotia. When the latter stage is reached the stem becomes limp, withers, and dies, seriously checking the growth of the tubers. In dry weather the white mould is not apparent on the outer surface, the disease being more active within. VEGETABLE CROP DISEASES. 115 Remedies. — All foliage showing any indication of the disease should be burnt, otherwise the disease will attack a future crop. It appears that beans, peas, marrows, cucumbers, and turnips are liable to be attacked also. Seedling Cabbage Disease (Olpidium brassica:). — A fungoid disease which attacks young plants of the Cabbage family, causing the stem to droop and the plant to die. It appears to infect plants growing in moist positions only. Remedies. — Burn all plants that suddenly droop and die, and form the seed-bed in warm, dry positions only Seedling Pea Blight (Braohysporium pisi). — This fungus attacks peas in the earlier stages of their growth, forms black patches on the foliage, and causes them to_die. Remedy. — Spray with sulphide of potassium and water. Sleeping Disease of Tomatos (Fusarium lycopersica). — A fungoid disease which causes the leaves to assume a dull colour, then droop, and finally the plant to suddenly collapse. It appears that this fungus, as in the case of "Black Stripe," which may or may not be due to the same cause, first attacks the small roots, then the larger ones, and the base of the main stem. When it has taken possession entirely of the roots, the drooping or sleeping of the leaves begins. Later on a white mould appears on the stem, above the surface of the soil. When the leaves of a tomato gradually droop, this may be regarded as evidence of the presence of the fungus. Remedies. — Fungicides are useless in this case. All that can be done is to pull up and burn the plants, and the soil should be removed and dressed with quicklime. Such soil should not again be used for tomatos if it can be dispensed with. The walls, paths, floor and staging should be syringed with a solu- tion ot iron sulphate, as advised for the Mushroom Disease. Seeds, moreover, should not be saved from fruits gathered from infected plants. It is well, also, to treat seeds before sowing as advised in the case of the Black Spot Disease. 116 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Spinach Mould (Peronospora effusa). — A fungus which infests the under sides of the leaves of Spinach and allied plants. It forms patches of greyish-lilac mould, and if allowed to remain, will rapidly spread and destroy the crop. Fortu- nately, it is not very common. Weeds like the Goose-foot (Chenopodium) should not be allowed to grow where spinach is cultivated, as the fungus is partial to this plant. Remedies. — Collect and burn all infected foliage. Tomato Black Spot, or Rot (Macrosporium tomato). — A fungoid disease fairly common in this country. The spores of this fungus alight upon the surface of the fruit, and, where- ever there is the slightest rupture in the skin, they vegetate, the mycelium destroying the cells, and eventually causing dark sunken patches to form on the fruit. Sometimes the patches «,///:*; black Stot Tomato Disease. form at the eye of the fruit ; in others, round the sides. The disease manifests itself when the fruit is about two-thirds developed. Remedies. — Every fruit attacked by the disease should be gathered and burnt. In bad cases pull up and burn the plants VEGETABLE CROP DISEASES. J 17 also. As a preventive of Black Spot, spray the plants during the early stages of their growth with sulphide of potassium and water. Avoid, also, a too close atmosphere, insufficient venti- lation, and the use of fresh manure. Turnip Bacterial Disease. — A new disease attacking turnips has made its appearance in the North of England. Mr. W. Carruthers, F.L.S., describes it thus: "In the worst cases the young leaves had disappeared from the crown, or were rotting away ; the outer older leaves also showed signs of wilting, their stalks were decaying at the base, and a number of lateral buds were shooting up from the axils of these older leaves. As a rule, the outer skin of the turnip was intact. In some instances the top was as if scooped out, and the depression lined by a whitish slimy substance. In others injury had further penetrated to the base of the turnip, and the whole centre was a mass of rotten pulp. Even in the plants less seriously affected, it was evident from the condition of the younger leaves that they were being out oft' from their connection with the root. Some of the turnips had wounds at the side or base, which formed starting points of attack, in addition to the injury at the top of the bulb. One or two were suffering from Finger and Toe, which was, of course, quite distinct from the rottenness that was destroying the turnips." A careful microscopic examination of leaf and bulb was made, and this revealed the fact that the injury was due to bacteria, which had gained access to the living plants between the bases of the young leaves or through the broken surface of the bulb. These bacteria were advancing into the substance of the turnip from cell to cell, destroying the tissues as they went. Sections were taken from the diseased parts and examined, and myriads of the bacteria were seen in the cells. The same bacteria (exceedingly minute, motile, cylindrical rods) were also found in the slimy substance from the cavity at the top of the turnips. Remedies. — As this disease has only recently been dis- covered, nny remedies must be, more or less, of a speculative character. It has been suggested that the diseased turnips should be placed in layers, with quicklime between, then covered with earth and allowed to decay. The lime will kill the 118 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. bacteria, and the decomposed matter may afterwards be used as manure. Another suggestion is not to grow turnips on the same land for several years until the bacteria has been starved out. White Rust (Cystopus candidus). — A fungus which attacks the foliage of radishes, cress, cabbage, and horse- radish, causing the parts affected to be distorted, and, more or less, snowy-white in colour. Remedies. — Gather and burn every infected leaf. The fungus can only attack plants whilst in their seedling stage. Yellow Spot Tomato Disease (Cladosporium fulvum). — This fungoid disease is also known as the Tomato Leaf Rust. It first appears in the form of small brownish spots on the young leaflets, the spots increasing in size until the whole or a part of the upper surface is covered. Later on, the spots change to a blackish-brown hue, and the leaves shrivel and die. On the under sides of the infected leaflets a thin growth of a rusty-brown tint forms. Then the stems of some of the infected plants often show stripes of a dark colour. In bad cases the fruit is also affected. This disease is of a virulent nature, and once established on a plant, and not checked, will soon spread and ruin the crop. It has been found by experi- ence that a moist atmosphere and insufficient ventilation, together with overcrowding, encourage the development of the disease. Remedies. — Once the disease has obtained a firm hold there is no cure. The best plan is to burn the infected plants. Preventive remedies are as follows : Maintain a dry atmosphere, and ventilate the house early. Avoid late waterings. If only a solitary leaf is found infected, gather and burn it. Spraying with Woburn Bordeaux Emulsion is also an excellent preven- tive, but it is said to weaken the growth of the plants somewhat. In any case, as the Bordeaux Emulsion is a poison, the fruit must be carefully wiped after spraying. One authority recom- mends wrapping the fruit in oilskin before spraying, but this is a tedious business. a fe (i fe ood Asparagus by going about the work in this slipshod fashio,m. The right way is to form ridges where the rows are market d out along the bed. See that the tops of the ridges are five olr six inches below the proposed surface of the bed. Get a plaiJt and place the base of its crown on the ridge, and spread thfe roots out equally on each side ; in other words, let the ridjje form a kind of saddle for the plant to rest on. Cover tlvi e roots at once with soil. When all the plants are in position) add sufficient soil to raise the surface of the bed to four inchels above the crowns. Remember that the roots of Asparagus ihre very sensitive to dryness ; therefore, do not let them be 'ex- posed to the air longer than is absolutely necessary. Sho'uld the roots be dry when received soak them in water prio:'r to planting. Plant early in April only. Age of Plants. —Roots or crowns may be purchased at one, two, or three years old. One or two year old crowns, and especially the former, are the best, because they do not feel the check of transplanting so keenly as the three-year-old crowns. General Management. — Whether grown from seeds or planted crowns, the general cultural details are alike During the summer, the bed must be kept free from weed .3 by hand- weeding or careful hoeing. Great care must be caken to see that the shoots are not broken or bruised the firfet season, and it will pay well to guard against this by staking each shoot securely. Should the summer be a hot dry one, mulch the surface of the bed with dry litter or lawn mowings. In the autumn, say, November, cut off the stems, and if any of the POPULAR VEGETABLES. H:7 crowns or seedlings should have failed to grow, insert stout sticks in the beds to indicate where to sow i're-h seeds, or plant fresh crowns the following April. On light soils a couple of inches or so of rotten manure may be spread on the surface and allowed to remain till April, then lightly forked in. On heavier soils it will be quite unnecessary to do this. Nothing will be needed till April, then the artificial manures mentioned elsewhere may be applied, the surface lightly forked over, and loose soil from the alleys thrown on top. The old- fashioned plan was to apply heavy dressings of manure in autumn, and to cover this with soil in spring. This plan does more harm than good. In the first place the crowns need no protection, and the roots are too far down to derive any benefit from the dung, and the constant addition of manure and soil gradually buries the roots deeper and deeper, and out of the way of sun and air. If a bed be well made at first, and arti- ficial manures, salt and soot, used as advised, far better results will be obtained. In the case of crowns grown on the flat, a dressing of decayed manure lightly forked in during March will be beneficial. Gathering the Crop. — Under no circumstances ought Aspiragus shoots to be cut till the fourth year after sowing or planting. It sh mid be clearly recognized that the presence of the shoots is absolutely necessary to enable the plants to collect, assimilate, and manufacture the food essential for forming roots, and attaining the nee I ful vigour to yield fine shoots in later years. Cutting the large shoots early, and leaving only weakly ones to carry on the sustenance of the roots, means weakly crowns and weakly growth in future years. Better, then, to wait for four or five years before cutting, and then never cut later than the middle of June. By doing this, a good healthy crop of heads may be obtained annually. In cutting, use a proper asparagus knife, with a saw-like edge. First remove a little of the soil around the shoots, and cut the latter off about three inches or so below the surface. Never use an ordinary knife ; it makes a clean cut, leaves the cells open, and allows the sap to flow fre< ly, and weakens the roots. The saw-like knife bruises the shoot, clones up the cells, and prevents loss of sap. 128 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Duration of Beds. — Plants managed on the foregoing principles, will continue in bearing for twenty or twenty-five years, but the average life of a bed may be said to be about fifteen years. To maintain a good supply, a fresh bed should be made every five years ; so that when a fifteen-year-old bed is on the decline, there may be one coming on to take its place. Forcing in Frames. — Asparagus is one of the most delicious vegetables grown, and it is not an easy matter to have too much of it, or to have it too long in season ; and if there be any plants that can be spared in the garden, some of the crowns may be lifted and put upon a mild hotbed, and a frame placed over them, when there will very soon be some shoots ready for cutting, which will continue to grow until Asparagus is ready for cutting outside. The hotbed should be made by throwing a quantity of manure into a heap — about three cartloads, or, better still, two cartloads of rather long manure and one cartloid of good leaves, as the leaves prevent violent heating, and the heat lasts much longer than if manure alone be used. Both should be thoroughly mixed and Forcing Asparagus in Frame on Hoibed. thrown together in a high pile to get it to heat quickly ; in about two days it should bo quite hot After turning every day for about four clays, the manure should be quite sweet, and may then be made into a bed. The bed should be well trodden during the making, to prevent its heating rapidly; there should be enough to make the bed two feet high. About four inches of soil should be thrown on the top, and the POPULAR VEGETABLES. 129 crowns be placed quite close together on the soil, and covered with about four more inches of light soil. The frame should be kept closed for a few days until the heat begins to come through, when a little air should be given to let the steam out, and when the Asparagus shoots begin to come through, air should be admitted freely on all favourable occasions, as they come a much better colour and flavour with plenty of air. Give a sprinkling of tepid water once or twice a day, according to the weather. Forcing in Hothouses. — Asparagus is easily forced in old orange or other boxes not more than a foot in depth. Place a little ordinary soil in the bottom, pack the roots closely together on this, and just cover them with ordinary mould. Moisten occasionally with tepid water, and stand in a temperature of 60 to 70 degrees. Forcing may begin as soon as roots can be obtained from the open ground. Hoots or crowns for forcing purposes must not be less than three years old, and a supply for this purpose should be grown in flat beds. Where there are low forcing houses with side beds, and hot water beneath, all that is necessary is to pack the crowns closely together on the bed, cover them with soil and mats till growth begins. Crowns after Forcing. — As a rule, when Asparagus is taken up and forced, the roots are thrown away afterwards, as they are generally considered worthless for planting again. The only chance of them being worth planting is to cease cutting early, so that one or two strong stems are left growing to each crown. These should be encouraged to grow strongly by frequent applications of manure water and nitrate of so.ia (half an ounce to the gallon of water) once a week. A warm, dull day should be Eelected, about the first week in May, and the roots planted in the garden on a well-prepared piece of soil. A good plan is to draw two drills a foot apart, and three inches deep, which leaves a narrow ridge between them; the crowns should be set on the top of this ridge, and their roots allowed to fall into the drills on each side, then be covered with soil. An application of chilled water should be given, and the bed mulched with half-rotten manure. It will be necessary to tie the growths to stakes to prevent them blowing over. F 130 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Exhibition Notes. — In collections of vegetables, Aspara- gus always scores the maximum number of points (seven). The heads or shoots should be perfectly fresh, of uniform length and thickness, and have their scales well closed. The heads should be exhibited in bundles of one hundred, be seven to nine inches in length, and the upper half a nice fresh green colour. See that they are quite clean. As it is not always possible to get a hundred heads of equal size at once, the best heads should be cut at intervals a week prior to the show, and be stood in water, in a cool place. The seven points are allocated as follows : condition, three ; size, two ; uniformity, two. Balm. Botanical Name.— Melissa officinalis. Foreign Names.— French, Melisse citronelle, Melisse officinale; German, Citronen-Melisse ; Dutch, Citroen-Melisse ; Danish, Hjertensfryd ; Italian, Melissa ; Spanish, Toronjil, Citronella. Natural Order.— Labiatse. Native Habitat. -Southern Europe. Duration. -Perennial. History.— Balm was introduced from the mountains of Geneva and Italy about 1573. It was known to the ancient Greeks and Romans, who used it medicinally. Uses.— A herb occasionally used by herbalists for making balm tea and wine, but more generally for yielding by distif- lation an otto or oil for perfumery purposes. Soil.— Ordinary ; position sunny. Culture. — Balm is increased by division of the roots in April. Plant these a foot apart each way, and afterwards keep free of weeds. Cut off the stems in October. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 13) Gathering the Crop. — Gather the shoots when young for herbal purposes, and when just coming into flower for distilling. The shoots at this stage may also be cut, dried, and bottled as advised for Sage. In a dry state they may be used for making balm tea. Basil. Botanical Name. — Ocimum basilicum, and minimum. Foreign Names. - French, Basilic grand, Herbe royale ; Danish and German, Basilikum, Basilicum ; Flemish, Basilic ; Italian, Basilico ; Spanish, Albaca ; Portuguese, Manjericao. Natural Order. — Labiatae. Native Habitat. — India. Duration. — Annual. History. — The Sweet or Common Basil (Ocimum basilicum) was well known to the ancient Greeks and Romans, and appears to have been first introduced into England about 1548. The Bush Basil (Ocimum minimum) was introduced later, in 1573. Uses. — The Bush and the Sweet Basil are aromatic herbs used for flavouring soups, stews, and sauces. Both are annuals of a tender nature, and can, therefore, only be grown by those who possess artificial heat to rear the seedlings. Soil. — This must be light, and the position warm and dry. Culture. — Sow the seeds in light soil in shallow boxes, in a temperature of 55 to 65 deg. in March. When the seed- lings are up, transplant them an inch apart in boxes, grow in heat for a week or two, then harden off in a cold frame, and plant out in May. The plants should be placed eight inches apart, in rows a foot asunder. Protect each plant during the day, by placing an inverted pot over it, and see that the soil is kept moist. In about a week, the plants will r 2 132 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. have become established, and the pots may be dispensed with. Water freely in dry weather, and keep free from weeds. Gathering the Crop. — Cut off the young shoots within an inch or so of the ground, when they come into flower. Tio them into bundles, and hang them in an airy place to dry, then rub up fine, and store in bottles, as advised for Sage. The plants cut down will shoot up again, and give a further supply of green shoots. A few plants may be lifted and placed in pots in a frame or heated house, to yield a supply in winter. The young shoots may be cut down before flowering, if wanted. Beet. Botanical Name.— Beta vulgaris. Foreign Names. -French, Betterave ; German, Runkel- Riibe; Danish, Rodbede ; Dutch and Flemish, Betwortel ; Italian, Barbabietola ; Spanish, Remolacha ; Portuguese, Betarava. Natural Order. — Chenopodiacese. Native Habitat.— South of Europe. Duration.— Biennial. History. — The original type of the cultivated Beet was first introduced into England in 1548. Trior to that date, it was cultivated extensively by both the Greeks and the Romans. The Grecians especially held the roots in high esteem, and it was their custom, it appears, to offer them on silver to Apollo in his temple at Delphos. From the same source, we also learn that they used the leaves in preference to lettuce, and placed a weight on the plant to convert the foliage into a cabbage. The old physicians and herbalists attached a great deal of importance to the medicinal value of the roots and leaves. Uses. — Well grown Beetroot is a much appreciated com- POPULAR VEGETABLES. 133 ponent of the salad bowl, is greatly esteemed as a relish with cold meats, and as a pickle. The richer the colour, and the more tender and succulent the roots, the greater is this whole- some vegetable appreciated. Pale, tough, and wiry roots are only fit for cattle feeding. Soil. — Beetroot prefers a deep, sandy soil, or a light soil free from, stones. Heavy clay soils do not suit this vegetable ; they cause the growth to be rank, and the roots flavourless. A sunny, open position, too, is indispensable. To get the soil in good condition, it should be dug up roughly or ridged in autumn, and occasionally well forked over in spring. In the case of heavy soils, adopt the plan advised further on of making- holes and filling these with good compost. On shallow, stony soils, the turnip-rooted sorts only should be grown. Manure. — Good Beetroot cannot be grown in rank soil, consequently stable manure should not be added the previous winter to soils intended to be cropped with this vegetable. Land should be chosen that has been liberally manured for a previous crop. Those who live near the sea should, when digging the land in autumn, bury a liberal quantity of sea- weed in the bottom of the trench. Where seaweed cannot be obtained, apply at the time of digging two ounces of kainit per square yard. In April, when preparing the soil for sowing in May, apply two ounces of superphos- phate and one ounce of sulphate of ammonia per square yard. If the soil is not over rich, apply an ounce of guano per square yard at the time of sowing. On very light, sandy soils, common salt may be applied in place of the superphos- phate and ammonia, at the rate of a couple to three ounces per square yard, a week before sow-ing. Dr. Griffiths recom- mends the bed to be watered with a solution of sulphate of iron, one ounce to a gallon of water, after the plants are thinned. This s D rves the double purpose of providing food and killing fungoid jnests in the soil. Later on, if the plants do not make great progress, apply one of the special manures advertised. The great point to observe in growing Beetroot well is to avoid rank manures in the soil, and the too liberal use of salt and nitrogenous manures, as these promote a coarse leaf growth. 134 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. When to Sow. — The end of April or the beginning of May is the proper time to sow seeds of Beetroot in the open ground. Where early roots are desired, seeds may be sown as early as March on a warm border, but in this case the turnip- rooted sorts are the best. For general purposes, however, we consider the first-mentioned periods quite soon enough. How to Sow. — Advantage should be taken of fine weather in April to fork the land over frequently to get it in good tilth Assuming the land to be in good order, draw drills one and a-half inches deep on heavy, and two inches deep on light soils, and a foot to fifteen inches apart. A foot is sufficient for the moderate growers, and fifteen inches for the robust Market Favourite Beet. ones. Sow the seeds thinly along the drills ; or, better still, drop two or three seeds at intervals of eight inches. The latter plan economises the seed, and saves much labour after- wards in thinning. Cover the seeds at once by means of a rake, and leave the surface level. Some growers make a prac- tice of steeping the seeds in water for a few hours before sowing, and it certainly facilitates germination, hence, is to be recommended. General Management. — When the seedlings are two to three inches high, thin them out to eight inches apart in the row. Should there be any failures in the rows, carefully trans- POPULAR VEGETABLES. 135 plant some of the best of the thinnings to fill such vacancies. This work is best done in showery weather. Future operations consist of keeping the soil frequently hoed between the plants, to destroy weeds and aerate it. Lifting the Roots. — Beetroot being somewhat tender, it must not remain in the ground longer than the middle of November. Great care is required in lifting Beetroot, so as not to break the tap-root. If bruised or broken the sap will ooze out, and with it the colouring matter, leaving the flesh pale. In lifting throw out the soil one side, and with a spade, thrust down perpendicularly on the opposite side, lift out each root separately. There must be no " tugging " at the root ; the lifting must be done by means of the spade alone. A fork is apt to slip and pierce the roots, hence a spade is best. When lifted, twist, not cut, off the foliage close to the crown of the root. Cutting causes the root to bleed and lose its colour. It is not wise to leave the roots exposed too long to the air, so take them to the storehouse as as soon as possible after lifting. Storing the Roots. — The best place in which to store Beetroot is a dark cellar or outhouse into which frost cannot easily penetrate. Here place a layer on the floor, then add a layer of sand or soil, sufficient to just cover them, then another layer of Beet, one of sand, and so on. If the heap be away from the wall the roots may be arranged in two rows, the crowns pointing outwards. Beetroot may, however, be stored in clumps, as advised and illustrated elsewhere for potatoes. Forcing in Frames. — An early crop maybe obtained by culture in frames, but our experience is that the results by no means pay for the time and trouble involved. The seeds have to be sown in January, in a temperature of 55 to 60 deg., and grown as sturdily as possible near the glass, then planted out six inches apart in rows a foot asunder in a frame over a gentle hotbed. About six inches of good soil must be placed on the manure. Great care and attention is needed in watering and ventilation to ensure good results. The turnip- rooted kinds are best for this purpose. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 137 Exhibition Notes. — To get first rate roots for exhibi- tion, make holes four feet deep, and fifteen inches apart, in rows eighteen inches asunder. The diameter of each hole at the top should be four to six inches, tapering to an inch or so at the bottom. Fill each hole with a compost of thoroughly decayed manure, decayed vegetable refuse, old mortar and burnt refuse. Sift this fairly fine, then to every bushel add an ounce of kainit, and one of superphosphate. Mix thoroughly and fill each hole therewith, pressing it down firmly. Sow three or four seeds in each hole. When the seedlings are three inches high, thin them out to one at each hole. A pinch of guano may afterwards be applied to each plant. For exhibition, Beetroot should be a foot in length, of medium size, regularly formed, evenly tapering, with a clear skin and free from blemishes of all kinds. The turnip-rooted kinds should be of medium size, fairly deep, and have small tap-roots. Coarseness and irregularity of size are great faults. Five points constitute a good Beet. Thus, two are allotted for quality of the flesh; two for colour; and one for uniformity and condition. In preparing the roots for exhibition, first remove all root- lets, but leave the tap-root intact ; then sponge the skin care- fully with cold water, till quite clean. Keep the roots covered from the air, and leave the young leaves on. Silver Beet (Beta cicla). — This is a kind grown for the ■white mid-ribs of its leaves, which are cooked and eaten similarly to Asparagus ; also for its leaves which are used as a substitute for Spinach. It is a biennial. Sow the seeds in drills one and a-half inches deep and eighteen inches asunder, in March, to yield a supply of leaves and ribs for autumn and winter; and in August, to provide a spring supply. Thin the seedlings out a foot apart when three inches high. The soil for this crop should be rich. As it should be the aim to get succu- lent leafage, keep the plants well supplied with water in dry weather, and also give occasional applications of guano. When required for cooking, gather the outer leaves, pulling, not cutting them off. Protect the plant with dry litter in severe weather. 138 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Borage. Botanical Name. — Borago officinalis. Foreign Names. - French, Bourrache officinale; German, Borretsch ; Flemish, Bernagie \ Italian, Boragine; Spanish, Borraja ; Portuguese, Borrajem. Natural Order. — Boraginacese. Native Habitat. — England, etc. Duration. — Annual History. — As the Borage was known to the ancient Romans, it is probable that it is not indigenous to England, but may have been introduced by the former. Uses. — This herb may be profitably grown by those who are bee keepers as well as amateur gardeners. It is a splendid bee plant. Apart from this, there is a demand for the flowers for imparting a flavour to claret-cup, and for garnishing salads. Soil. — Ordinary. Culture. — Sow the seeds broadcast or in shallow drills, a foot apart, in March or April. Thin out the seedlings in due course, and keep free from weeds. Gathering the Crop. — Gather the young leaves as required. Borecole. Synonym. — Kale. Botanical Name.— Brassica oleracea acephala. Foreign Names.— French, Chou verts ; German, Winter POPULAR VEGETABLES. 139 Kohl ; Dutch, Booren Kool ; Italian, Cavola verde ; Spanish, Coles sin cogollo. Natural Order. — Cruciferse. Native Habitat. — Europe. Duration —Biennial. History. — There is very little information to give in regard to the early history of the Borecole section of the cahbagc family. Its history is, no doubt, more or less bound up with the cabbage, of which it is a sub-species or variety. Borecole or kale may be described as a form of cabbage with open heads, and curled or fimbriated foliage. One variety, the Thousand headed Kale, is extensively grown as a forage crop for sheep and cattle feeding. In Jersey, and in France, the Tree or Jersey Kale is also grown for a similar purpose. This variety grows as high as ten feet, and when three or more years of age its stalks are cut, dried, and converted into waiving sticks. All the Kales are very hardy, and form one of the best of green crops to grow for winter and spring use. Uses. — The tops of the plants, as well as the side shoots, constitute a delicious vegetable for use during winter and early spring, when other green vegetables are scarce. The shoots of the Asparagus Kale form a substitute for asparagus. The variegated kind may be used for garnish iug, or cooking after it has been subjected to frost. Soil. — Borecole will succeed in almost any kind rdinary or White Cabbage, of which there are several varieties lescribed elsewhere. These require similar soil and treatment o the ordinary Cabbage, the only difference in their culture leing the different periods of sowing. For ordinary purposes ow in the second week in August, transplant six inches apart ach way in a nursery bed in a warm sheltered border in Sep- ember, let them remain there till March, then transplant in ood soil two feet apart each way. A sowing may be made in larch if preferred, and the seedlings planted out permanently i May. This Cabbage will be benefited by the applicaticn of nch manures as are advised for the ordinary Cabbage. Chou de Burghley. — This is reputed to be the result of cross between a Cabbage and a Broccoli, and was raised G 162 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. many years ago by the late Mr. E. Gilbert, head gardener to the Marquis of Exeter, Burghley, near Stamford. It possesses the dual character of bearing a Cabbage during autumn or winter, or a Broccoli if allowed to grow on till spring. We do not regard it as worthy of culture in small gardens. We already have plenty of first-rate Cabbage and Broccoli, and can afford to dispense with a cross-bred vegetable, which is neither good as a Cabbage or as a Broccoli. Sow seeds outdoors in April and transplant the seedlings in June, two feet apart each way in fairly good soil. Cut the hearts as Cabbages in winter, or as Broccoli in March or April. Gathering the Crop. — The White Cabbage should be cut when the heads are well formed, but have not begun to burst. In cutting, remove the " head " only, leaving the loose outer leaves. In a, few weeks time, delicious young sprouts will form, which will make a really appetising dish of greens. Red Cabbage should not be cut until the " heads " have been subjected to one or two mild early frosts, then they will be nice and tender and make a better pickle. Exhibition Notes. — To get really good " heads " for exhibition, the soil must be rich ; the seedlings transplanted early, and finally lifted with a good ball of roots, and planted with a trowel. The plants, moreover, must be carefully fed after the " head " forms, and kept free from pests. In dry weather, mulch the soil around each plant, and see that its roots are kept moist. In very hot weather, it may then be advisable to protect the tender " heads " from the sun. The " heads " of White Cabbage should be of medium size, conical in shape, well formed, and firm and tender. In a collection, five points represent a perfect exhibit, these being allocated as follows: — freshness, two; firmness, one; size, one; uniformity, one. Bed Cabbages are appraised at a maximum of five points, three being allocated for colour and firmness ; one for size ; and one for uniformity. In cutting " heads " for exhibi- tion, avoid those that have been in the slightest degree injured by insects, and take care that they are nice and fresh. Cut the " heads " with at least one outer row of nice fresh leaves. Three " heads ' are generally shown. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 163 Capsicum or Chili. Botanical Name Capsicum annum (Chili or Bed Pepper). Foreign Names — French, Piment; German, Pfeffer ; Flemish, Spaansche Peper ; Dutch, Spaansche Peper ; ItaLan, Peperone ; Spanish, Pimiento ; Portugese, Pimento. Natural Order.— Solanaoese. Native Habitat. — South America, India, etc. Duration. — Annual or Perennial. History. —Phillips, in his " History of Cultivated Vege- tables," tells us the word Capsicum is derived from a Greek word signifying, to bite. The Capsicum was first brought to Europe by the Spaniards, from South America, and was cultivated in this country so long ago as the reign of King Edward VI. Early in the last century it was cultivated extensively by the London market gardeners, there being at that time a good demand for the pods Even now there is a small demand for Capsicums and Chillies in Covent Garden market, but they are not grown commercially to the extent they formerly were. Uses. — The species mentioned is grown for its seed pods, which, when green, are used in salads, pickles, sauces, and, when ripe, for making Cayenne pepper. Chili vinegar is likewise made from the green fruits. Culture. — The seed should be sown in light, rich soil, in pots or boxes, in a temperature of 55 to 65 degrees, either in a greenhouse or on a hot-bed any time in March. As soon as the seedlings have formed their third leaf, transplant them simply in thumb pots and grow close to the glass. When well-rooted, transfer the plants to three-inch pots, and later on into six-inch pots using in each case a compost of two parts light loam, and " g 2 164 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. one part of equal proportions of decayed manure, leaf-mould, and silver sand. Grow the plants on the staging, not too far from the glass. Syringe the foliage morning snd afternoon, and see the roots are kept moist. When the young fruits form, feed with liquid manure, or with one of the advertised fertilisers. In due course a good crop of fruit will then be obtained. Those who have narrow borders at the foot of south walls, where the soil is not very rich, may, instead of planting the seedlings in sis-inch pots, plant them out early in June. Or, the young plants may be planted in the side of a sunny gravel path in June. When grown out of doors a rich soil is not advisable, hence the advice just given. Assuming the CAl'SICUMS. plants to be grown thus, and a crop of fruit to have formed, feed regularly with liquid manure. In the South of England, the seeds may be sown out of doors under a hand-light in May, and the seedlings afterwards planted as advised, and a fair crop be obtained. Gathering the Crop. — For pickles, sauces, and vinegar making, gather before the pods turn colour. The larger Capsicums should be gathered when ripe, put iii an open re- ceptacle in a slightly warm oven for twelve hours, then be reduced to a powder in a mortar, first adding one fourth of POPULAR VEGETABLES. 165 their weight of hot, dry salt. After pounding, place tightly stoppered bottle to use as Cayenne pepper. The ripe fruit may also be stored on strings hang in a dry room, until required for use for flavouring purposes or vinegar making. a Cardoon. botanical Name.— Cynara Cardunculus. Foreign Names. — French, Oartlon ; German, Kardon ; Dutch, Spaansche Artisjok ; Italian, Spanish, and Portuguese, Cardo ; Flemish, Kardoen. Natural Order. — Compositse. Native Habitat. — South Europe. Duration.— Perennial. History. — The earliest mention of this vegetable in English literature is by Parkinson, who refers to it in his " Paradisus terrestris," published in 1629. It is supposed to have been introduced into this country about 1658, and, according to Dr. Neill, was cultivated in the gardens attached to the palace of Holyrood in 1683. The Cardoon is a more popular vegetable in France than in England, but there is no. reason why it should not be grown more widely here, since it is an excellent vegetable. Uses. — The Cardoon is grown for its crisp, succulent leaf- stalks, which have to be blanched after the manner of celery. The stalks are stewed, or used in soups and salads. Soil. — The Cardoon requires a deep, rich soil. If the soil be very heavy, the Cardoon is generally grown on the flat, but if light or sandy, in trenches. The situation must be an open sunny one. When to be grown on the flat the ground should be trenched and well manured prior to planting. There is no doubt, that the best results are obtained by growing Cardoons in trenches. 166 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Manures.— Besides the manure used in the trenches plenty of liquid manure should be given after the plants are established, and until the blanching process begins. Dustings of guano or some fertilizer along the trenches occasionally will be found beneficial also. The Cardoon. Seed Sowing. — For an early crop, sow four or five seeds in a four-inch pot, and place this in a temperature of 65 to^Odeg. in March. Grow the plants in a warm house till May, then harden off, and plant out late in May. For the main crop, sow the seeds where the plants are required to POPULAR VEGETABLES. 167 grow, in groups of three or four seeds, eighteen inches to two feet apart, from the middle to the end of April. This plan is the least troublesome of the two really, and answers all right for a general crop. The seeds may also be sown on a hotbed in April, the seedlings planted singly in three-inch pots, hardened off in May, and planted out at the end of the month. Planting Out. — As previously mentioned, the plants may be grown on the surface or in trenches. If grown on the surface system, draw drills six inches deep and four feet apart, and plant the seedlings eighteen inches apart in the drills. If to be grown in trenches, mark the latter out four feet apart from centre to centre, two feet wide and eighteen inches deep. Place about four inches of good rotten dung in the bottom, and fork this well into the soil. Along the centre of the trench, plant at intervals of eighteen inches to two feet, a good strong seedling, and well water it in. General Culture. — In the event of seeds being sown direct in the surface drills, or in the trench, thin the seedlings out to one in each place, as soon as it can be distinctly seen which is likely to make the strongest plant in each group. Other cultural details consist in keeping the pl.mts well watered, and supplied with occasional doses of liquid manure. Blanching. — In September, the plants will be sufficiently large to undergo the blanching process. This is accomplished by drawing the leaves tightly together, and securing them firmly by means of strong bast or matting. The next step is to get some haybands, and wind these round each plant as far as the tips of the leaves. After this operation is completed, earth up the soil, just as is done in the case of celery. Later crops will not require to be blanched till October. In severe weather, place straw along the tops of the ridges. Where only a few plants are grown blanching may be done by means of glazed sanitary pipes, dropped over the plants directly they are tied up. In this case, the blanching is more effectually done by filling the vacant space in the pipes with sand. Blanching occupies about five weeks to carry out fully. 168 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Gathering the Crop. — The plants require to be lifted and trimmed precisely as is done in the case of celery. Exhibition Notes. — Cardoons are rarely exhibited, but in case it should be desired to do so, the plants should be carefully lifted and trimmed, the outside stems being removed, and any dead leaves, leaving a solid clean white head. A neat tie should be put round just below the leaves. Caraway. Botanical Name. — Carum Carvi. Foreign Names. — French, Carvi, Cumin des pros; German, Feld-Kiimmel ; Dutch, Karvij ; Italian, Carvi. Natural Order. — Umbelliferas. Native Habitat. — South Europe (including Britain). Duration. — Biennial. History. — We have no evidence as to when the Caraway was first grown in this country. It was known to the Romans, since Pliny refers to it in his writings. At one time, the Cara- way was largely grown as a field crop in Suffolk and Sussex. Uses. — This plant is grown for the sake of its seeds, which are used in the confectionery art for flavouring cakes and also for distilling for perfumery purposes, such as scenting soap, mixing with oil of lavender and bergamot for making- cheap essences. The seeds are also crushed and used to make sachet powder. Soil. — The most suitable soil for this crop is a good, dee]) loam. The land must be trenched deeply, and well dunged the previous winter, and the surface worked into a fine tilth. Culture. — Sow the seeds in shallow drills a font apart in POPULAR VEGETABLES. 169 April. Thin the seedlings out later, to eight inches apart. Keep the surface between the rows well hoed. Gathering the Crop. — The seeds will not be ready to gather until the following July or August. Carrot. Botanical Name. — Daucus Carota. Foreign Names. — French, Garotte; German, MShre or Gelbriihe ; Dutch, Wortel ; Italian, Carota ; Spanish, Zana- horia ; Portuguese, Cenoura. Natural Order. - Umbelliferee. Native Habitat. — Europe. Duration. — Biennial. History. — The cultivated forms are the progeny of the wild Carrot, which grows abundantly in some parts of this country. Selection and good cultivation have conjointly given us some very fine strains of this useful vegetable. The ancient Romans, according to Pliny, used to obtain very fine Carrots from Candia and Achaia. Theophrastus, the Greek philoso- pher, who flourished between 372 and 287 B.C., refers to Carrots in his " History of Plants " as being grown in Achaia and Sparta. Gerard (1597) refers to what he terms " Candie Carrots " in his celebrated " Herbal," but later authors affirm that Carrots were first introduced into this country by the Flemings in Queen Bess's time (1558), and state, moreover, that they were first grown in the neighbourhood of Sandwich, Kent. According to Parkinson, who wrote about 1629, ladies used to gather the prettily- tin ted autumn foliage, and wear it as an ornament in their hair. Uses. — The small, early Shorthorn Carrots are highly esteemed as a vegetable in spring and early summer for 170 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. flavouring soups, and the larger kinds as an autumn and winter vegetable. Soil. — The Shorthorn or stump-rooted kinds will succeed on any light shallow soil, but the long-rooted ones prefer a deep, well-drained, sandy loam. Heavy clay soils are quite out of the question for growing really good roots. Nor is stony land suitible, as this would cause the roots to grow forked instead of straight. Land intended for root crops like the Carrot, should always be deeply trenched the previous autumn. In the case of heavy soils, plenty of grit should be used to render them porous. Land likely to be infested with Sutton's Favourite Carrot. insect pests, and otherwise fairly deep, is best thrown into ridges the previous autumn, in order that the frost may thoroughly penetrate and ameliorate it. For the reception of the seeds the soil cannot be too well worked, so as to get a fine tilth. Manures. — Experience shows that the best crop of per- fect shaped roots are grown on land that has not been specially dressed with stable manure. The presence of animal manure in the soil causes rank growth of the foliage and ill-shapen forked roots. If, however, the soil be really poor, rather than POPULAR VEGETABLES. 171 not follow the above rule, it would be better, when trenching the soil, to add a layer of well-rotted dung between the second and third spit of soil. In this case the roots would not reach the dung until at least a couple of feet in length, and no great harm would be done. Where the land has been well manured for a previous crop, and none applied the autumn before, apply, wdien ridging or digging the soil in winter, one pound of kainit per square rod. In March, when finally forking over the land for sowing, give two pounds of superphosphate per square rod. After the seedlings are thinned out apply three- quarters of a pound of nitrate of soda or sulphate of ammonia per square rod. Both soot and wood ashes are excellent fertilisers to apply at time of sowing. Where it is not con- venient to use the above fertilisers, apply guano at the rate of two-and-a-half pounds per square rod before sowing the seed. A dressing of soot, instead of the soda and ammonia, may be given on a showery day when the seedlings are well up. Types of Carrots. — Before going into the question of sowing, it will be well, perhaps, to describe the types of Carrots in cultivation, as each requires a somewhat different system of culture. Broadly speaking, there are three types of Carrots in cultivation, the Shorthorn, Intermediate, and the Long. The Shorthorns vary from a short roundish root to one six inches long, but blunt at the end. The Intermediate type have tapering, medium sized, handsome roots ; and the Long type very long tapering roots. When to Sow. — The Shorthorn kinds ma}' be sown for the earliest crops on a south border the last week in January, or the first two weeks in February. A further sowing may follow early in March. If young Carrots are required late in summer, sow again in June and the early part of July. In warm, sheltered gardens, a final sowing may be made early in August, but in case of severe weather, this crop may need the protection of an improvised frame. The Intermediate and Long Carrots — the main crop kinds — should be sown between the middle of March and the middle of April. On good soils and in favourable seasons, sow early ; on cold soils and lattr seasons, sow later, 172 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. How to Sow. — The seeds may be sown broadcast, or in drills. If our readers desire our candid advice on the matter, we would say, adopt the last named method by all means. It is a neater, better, and altogether the more satis- factory plan than broadcast sowing. For the Shorthorn kinds, the drills should be drawn six inches wide and an inch deep ; for the Intermediates, a foot wide, and an inch deep ; and for the Long-rooted kinds, fifteen inches wide, and an inch deep. As Carrot seeds are apt to cling together, and hence difficult to sow evenly, they should be well mixed together with dry soil Sutton's Intermediate Cakkot. or sand to cause them to separate It will be found, if this be done, that the seeds can be more evenly sown than other- wise. Do not sow too thickly. There is no advantage to be gained in thick sowing unless the seeds are old, or of in- different quality. Thick sowing means a waste of seed, and a good deal of labour afterwards in thinning. We have tried the experiment over and over again of not sowing the seeds continuously in the row, but dropping them in small groups at intervals of six to eight inches in the row. This plan was POPULAR VEGETABLES. 173 only adopted in the case of the Long-rooted kinds. It economised the seed, and the after labour of thinning, and \vc got a better crop in consequence. Where the Carrot Fly is troublesome, it is a good plan to scatter wood ashes along the rows before sowing. Wood ashes are rich in potash, and as Carrots require the latter food, they make a strong early growth, and do not seem to be so liable to an attack of the fly. When the sowing is completed, cover the seed carefully, rake the surface smooth, and the operation is finished. Thinning the Crop. — When the seedlings are a few inches high, commence to thin out. The Shorthorn kinds should be thinned to a couple of inches, the Intermediates to three, and the Long-rooted to four inches apart. Later on, a further thinning should be made, this time thinning the Shorthorns to four inches, the Intermediates to six, and the Long-rooted to eight inches apart. Unless very fine roots are needed, the second thinning need not be done all at once, but by degrees, using the thinnings for cooking purposes. Where the seedlings are sown in groups, thin them out to one in each place. Too much importance cannot be attached to early thinning. If the seedlings are left too long before thinning, the young roots will be starved aud distorted in growth. Thin early, and you will get better shaped roots, of finer quality than if the thinning be deferred till late. General Culture. — From the time of seed sowing till the foliage has become fairly dense, it Mill be needful to use the hoe permanently. H eing not only kills the weeds, but aerates the soil, and either kills or worries the various pests roaming about the surface of the soil. On no account allow weeds to grow, as they rob the soil of plant food, and impoverish the young Carrots. Lifting and Storing. - By the end of October, the Carrots will have attained their full growth, and be ready for the lifting and storing. In any case, lifting should not be postponed after the second week in November. In lifting- carrots in light soil, they can usually be drawn without the aid of a fork, but where the land is heavy, use a fork to loosen the ground before drawing the roots. Cut off the tops close 174 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. to the crown, and then convey the roots to the storage place, such as a cellar, shed, or loft. Darkness is not necessary. Failing one of these conveniences, a " clamp " may be formed outdoors. Wherever stored, place the roots in layers, adding sufficient dry soil or sand, to just cover each layer. The heaps may be oblong or circular. If stored in an open shed, cover the heap with a little dry litter. When stored in a " clamp " outdoors, arrange the roots in an oblong heap. Cover them with a layer of dry litter or straw, and this again with a layer of soil beaten firmly. Leave an opening at the top for ventilation, inserting a wisp of straw to keep out rain. The best plan, however, is to store in sheds, if possible. Frame Culture. — Those who have plenty of fresh stable manure and leaves, and a one, two, or three-light frame, may grow early Carrots on hotbeds, with but little trouble. Thus, seeds may be sown as early as November or December, to ensure carrots in early spring ; and in January, February or March for later supplies. The hotbeds should be made as advised for asparagus, and covered with six inches of finely- sifted old potting mould, mixed with one part of leaf-mould or sifted vegetable refuse. Under this system, both Carrots and Radishes may be grown on the same hotbed. The drills should be drawn from the back to the front of the frame, and may be eight inches apart from the Carrots, between these being formed another drill for Radishes. They may be about one inch deep, and are most readily formed with the aid of a short square rod, these being placed on edge, and pressed into the soil. Should the soil be at all dry, freely moisten it after the drills are opened, through a rose water-pot, using warm water for the purpose. Sow both Carrot and Radish seed rather thinly, as nearly all will germinate in gentle heat, and then either smooth over the surface of the bed, or cover the seed with a little fresh fine soil. Keep the frame closely covered with mats and litter, or any substitutes that may be found, aud, in about a week, sometimes less, the Radishes will be showing through the soil, these always being well ahead of the Carrots. Directly this is found to be the case, keep the glass clear during the day, giving a " nick " of air at the back during the warmest part of sunny days, but returning the POPULAR VEGETABLES. 175 covering every night. When growing freely, thin out the Radishes to about two inches apart each way, and this will also be necessary with the carrots later on. As the days lengthen, give more air, or the Radishes may not swell quickly, and moisten thoroughly with warm water whenever the soil is found to be dry. Commence to pull both Radishes and Carrots when they are quite small, thus allowing more space for those left to occupy. The Radishes must be cleared off before they interfere with the growth of the Carrots, the latter eventually Shorthorn Carrots. covering the whole of the surface of the beds. The frame may be removed when the Carrots are large enough to pull. The best Carrots for this purpose are the early Shorthorn. Exhibition Notes. — Very fair exhibition specimens may be grown in the manner advised for general culture. To attain the very finest roots it is advisable to adopt the follow- J 76 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. ing plan : — Make holes thirty inches to three feet deep, and four inches wide at the top, tapering to a point at the base. Use a crowbar for this purpose. The holes should be a foot apart each way; some advise them to be nine inches apart in the row, and eighteen inches between the rows. Prepare a mixture of equal parts of any good soil, leaf-mould, road grit, or coarse sand, and well decayed manure. Pass this through a fine sieve and add a pint of bone meal to every bushel of the compost. Fill the holes with the compost, pressing it down firmly with a stick. Sow three or four seeds in each hole. When the seedlings appear, and it can be seen which is the strongest, reduce them to one in each place. In dry weather give a good watering occasionally. A mulching of rotten dung around each plant will be of great benefit. For exhibition purposes the roots should be perfectly shaped, and quite free from scabs, fractures, or blemishes of any kind. The colour, too, should be bright and clear. There should be no side roots ; if any, remove them. Avoid coarseness. To cleanse the roots use a soft sponge and rinse them well in clear water. If the roots have to be stored bury them vertically in fine, clean sand to keep them uniformly moist and fresh. The point value of a perfect specimen or specimens in a collection or otherwise is five. These points are allocated as follows : form and colour, two ; size, one ; condition, one ; uniformity, one. Cauliflower. Botanical Name. — Brassica oleracea botrytis. Foreign Names. — French, Chou-fleur , German, Blumen- kohl ; Dutch, Bloomkool ; Italian, Cavoli-fiori ; Spanish, Coliflor ; Portuguese, Couve-flor. Natural Order.— Cruciferse. Native Habitat.— Probably Italy. Duration.-.- Biennial. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 177 History. —The Cauliflower is unquestionably a vegetable of great antiquity, but nothing definitely is known of its origin. It appears to have been known to the Romans, as one writer refers to its sweet and pleasant flavour, but says it was of no value as a medicine. It is mentioned by Gerarde, the sixteenth century writer, who called it the " Coleflowery," so that it must have been grown in his day in English Gardens. The Cauliflower is much like the Broccoli in general appearance, but differs from it in having a white flowerhead, a more regular and compact form, and a more delicate flavour when cooked. It is less hardy than the Broccoli. Autumn Giant Cauliflower. Uses. — The Cauliflower is grown for its creamy white, delicate flower-buds and stalks, which, when cooked, form an excellent table vegetable ; and also for its adaptability for making a first rate" pickle. The Cauliflower is par excellence the " doyen " of the Cabbage family as a vegetable for human consumption. Soil. — The Cauliflower being a somewhat tender vegetable, is rather particular as to soil and situation. A well drained 178 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. loam is the best soil, but light or bandy soils, if well manured, will grow good Cauliflowers also Heavy, wet soils do not suit the Cauliflower. Still, the latter may be greatly improved by trenching, liming, and the addition of gritty substances, so as to meet the requirements of the Cauliflower. As to position, a south border or sunny plot, well sheltered from North and East, will suit the Cauliflower admirably. Manures. — For soils of a light or sandy nature, cow or pig manure is preferable to horse dung. If such a soil be poor double dig it, and put a l&jer of fresh dung between the first and second spits. In the case of heavier and more compact soils, use horse manure and plenty of decayed vegetable refuse and road grit for lightening them. A good di^sing of lime at the rate of three bushels per square rod will be of service both to the soil and the crop. Where the soil contains plenty of animal manures, a dressing of the following artificials mixed, after the plants have been put in their permanent quarters a few weeks, will give good results : — Kainit, two and a-half pounds ; sulphate of soda, one and a-half pounds ; sulphate of ammonia, two pounds ; superphosphate, two and a-half pounds. Apply the above quantities to each square rod, forking them in, If specially fine heads are required for exhibition, apply, when the flower heads form, a solution of one ounce of iron sulphate to two ounces of sulphate of ammonia to one gallon of water. When to Sow. — Generally speaking, two crops only a year are grown, namely, spring and autumn. The third crop, sometimes grown, comes into use in summer, when there is an abundance of early vegetables, and Cauliflowers are not needed. We, however, give the times for sowing in each case, in case the reader should desire to grow all three. For ensuring a supply of Cauliflowers in spring, sow the seeds in September on a warm, border outdoors. As soon as the seedlings have made their third leaf, lift and transplant them four inches apart each way in a prepared bed, in a cold frame, in which they should remain till the following April. For a summer sujjply, sow in a temperature of 55 to 65 degrees in February, transplant the seedlings two or three inches apart in shallow POPULAR VEGETABLES. 179 boxes, or simply in small pots, remove to a cold frame, gradually harden off, and plaut out in rich soil and a warm position. For an autumn crop, sow outdoors in April, transplant the seedlings early into a nursery bed, and finally in their permanent quarters at the end of May or early in June. How to Sow. — The outdoor sowings should be in drills one inch deep, and six inches apart, or broadcast. The indoor sowings should be made in pans, or shallow boxes, filled with equal parts loam and leaf mould. For the outdoor sowing make the soil nice and friable, adding decayed vegetable refuse or well rotted manure, if heavy. A dusting of lime will be beneficial also. The Seedlings. — The autumn-sown Cauliflowers wintered in frames will require careful management. Air must be admitted freely on fine days, and sufficient water only given to keep the soil just moist, neither too wet nor too dry. In severe weather the frames must be well protected from frost also. Directly the frost disappears give all the air possible on fine days, to keep the plants dwarf and sturdy. Those reared in heat must be placed close to the glass, and not kept longer in a high temperature than is necessary for them to grow large enough for transplanting into boxes or pots. Gradually inure them to a lower temperature afterwards, and place in a cold frame at the earliest opportunity. There must be no check to their growth. Those grown outdoors in April plant out four inches apart each way in the nursery bed as soon as the third leaf forms. Planting Out. — The February sown plants should, as previously mentioned, be grown on a warm, sheltered plot of land. Plant each seedling carefully with a trowel. If the soil is not very generous surround the roots with a mixture of soil, leaf mould and rotten manure, and press the roots down firmly. If the weather be hot, place an inverted flower-pot over each plant for the first day or so, removing it when the sun loses its power. Should the nights be cold and frosty, use the pots in a similar way. Where bell-glasses or hand-lights are available, protect each plant with one of these. The plants from the other sowings may also be treated in a similar way at 180 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. first, till they are established. Branches of evergreens inserted on the north side of each plant will form a good protection. Unless the weather be rainy at the time of planting, water should be given directly afterwards. General Culture.- Keep the soil frequently stirred between the plants, and in the case of the summer crop, mulch around each plant with decayed manure. Frequent applications of liquid manure should be given directly the "hearts " begin to form. As it is essential that the " hearts ' : should be as white as possible, these should be protected from the hot sun by snapping the point of a leaf, or placing a plucked leaf instead over them. Gathering the Crop. — The "hearts" or "heads" are ready to gather when three inches or so in diameter. In no ease should they be allowed to remain uncut until they begin to burst open, as then they will be tough and deficient in flavour. Exhibition Notes. — The general cultural details given will produce good exhibition " heads." The only additional points are to grow the plants on good land, plant them two and a-half feet apart, in rows three feet asunder, and feed them well. A cauliflower for exhibition should be of medium size, firm, solid, round, and perfectly white, and free from blemishes. The standard of points for such a specimen is seven : three being allocated for purity and freshness ; two for size ; and two for solidity. Three " hearts " or " heads " are generally shown. Celeriac. Botanical Name. — Apium gravcolens rapaceum. Synonyms. — Turnip-rooted, or Knob Celery. Foreign Names. — French, Celeri-rave ; German, Knold POPULAR VEGETABLES. 181 Sellerie; Dutch and Flemish, Knoll-Selderij ; Danish, Knold- Selleri; Italian, Sedano-rapa • Spanish, Apio-nabo. Natural Order.— Umbelliferae. Native Habitat. — Europe. Duration. — Biennial. History. — Celeriac does not appear to have been grown in Britain till the last century. On the Continent (in France and Germany), however, it appears to have been very exten- sively cultivated for a long period. It is a variety of the ordinary Celery, differing only in having a swollen bulb or knob at the base of the leaves. Uses. — Celeriac is grown for the sake of its swollen basal stems, which are used for flavouring soups, and for cooking as a vegetable. As the roots may be taken up and stored in winter, they form a good substitute for ordinary Celery wherever the latter is required for flavouring soup. When cooked and served like seakale, Celeriac makes a first-rate dish. Culture. — The seeds require to be sown on a hot-bed, or in a temperature of 65 to 75 deg. in March. As soon as the seed- lings can be safely handled, transplant them a couple of inches apart in shallow boxes filled with light soil. Keep in heat till established, then remove to a cold frame, and harden off. Early in May, prepare a bed of rich soil on a sunny border out of doors, and plant out the seedlings six inches apart each way. Keep them supplied with water. In J une, plant out finally eighteen inches apart each way, in a sunny plot or border where the soil is moderately light and sandy, and well manured. See that the plants are well watered in dry weather, and frequently hoe the surface of the soil between the plants. When planting, remove all suckers, and take care not to bury the young knob or stem base below the surface. Remove from time to time any suckers that may form at the sides of the plants. Lifting and Storing. — At the end of October, lift the plants, pulling off all outside leaves, and then heel the roots in 182 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION, sand, in any cool place, till required for use. A portion of the crop may be left in the ground if desired. In this case, draw the mould up round the swollen stems to protect them from frost. Celery. Botanical Name.— Apium graveolens. Foreign Names. — French, Celeri ; German, Sellerie; Flemish and Dutch, Selderij ; Italian, Apio ; Spanish, Apio hortense ; Danish, Sellerie. Natural Order.— Umbelliferse. Native Habitat. — Europe (including Britain). Duration . — Biennial. History. —Although a native plant, the Celery does not appear to have been grown very extensively in this country prior to the beginning of the last century. London anf; Wise in their "Complete Gardener," published in 1702, devote a considerable amount of space to cultural details, so that Celery must have been in demand for over two hundred years. It appears, however, to have been largely grown in Italy and the Levant before its culture was taken up very much here. An author named P^ogers, writing in 1832, says, "The cultivated Celery has come into much repute within these forty years," so that we may assume Celery began to become a popular vegetable early in the last century. Uses. — The blanched leaf-stalks are much in request as an autumn and winter salading, also, when boiled or braized, as a vegetable. The aromatic seeds and stalks are likewise used for flavouring soups. Our forefathers used also to make a medicinal tea from the roots and seeds for curing liver and urinary troubles. Soil. — Celery is a moisture-loving plant whilst making its growth, but since it is necessary to place mould round the POPULAR VEGETABLES. 183 Pkjze Celery. Four Sticks which won n. Silver Cup. 184 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. stems to blanch them, any soil which holds too much moisture in winter is apt to cause the stems to rot. Very heavy clay soils ought therefore to be avoided. Those of a light, rich nature, and fairly porous, to allow the moisture to drain away in winter, are best for the Celery crop. Excellent Celery may be grown in peat or light sandy soils. The main point to bear in mind is, the soil must be light and porous for earthing up. Manures. — For soils of a light or sandy nature, and at all likely to be dry, the best animal manure to use is cow or pig dung, or peat-moss litter manure. These conserve the moisture, and form a compact medium for the roots. On the heavier type of soils horse dung is better. Night soil and poultry manure are also excellent manures for Celery culture, if placed in the trench some time before pi in ting. As to artificials, these may be used with good effect in conjunction with dung. Experiments have clearly shown that phosphatic potassic, and nitrogenous manures, applied in addition to animal manures, greatly increase the yield, and also the flavour of Celery. Thus, superphosphate of lime and kainit, forked into the trenches at the rate of an ounce each per three lineal yards, a few weeks before planting, and a similar quantity of nitrate of soda at intervals of a month, from a fortnight after planting to earthing up, will be found an excellent fertiliser for Celery. If it is not convenient to apply the artificials as above advised, then administer them in the form of a liquid once a fortnight. If used in this way, two ounces of kainit and one ounce each of superphosphate and sulphate of am- monia should be dissolved in each gallon of water applied. This liquid should be applied directly after an ordinary water- ing or rain, when the soil is moist. Pour the liquor on to the soil, and not over the plants. In place of the artificials, liquid sewage or drainage from the manure heap will make a first-rate fertiliser for Celery. Rearing the Plants. — The next thing to see to is rearing the young plants To have Celery fit for use early in autumn seed should be sown early in March, in a temperature of 55 to 65 deg. ; for a later crop at the end of March ; and POPULAR VEGETABLES. 185 for a winter crop early in April, on a sunny border outdoors For all general purposes, however, one sowing, about the middle of March, will suffice. This can be made in boxes on a hot-bed, or in a cold frame or ordinary greenhouse. The soil for the seed boxes may be any good light mould, no special composition being needed. Treatment of the Seedlings. --Those reared early in heat should be transplanted, as soon as large enough to handle, a couple of inches or so apart, in any good soil in shallow boxes. Keep them in heat till established, then gradually harden off, and place in a cold frame. When well hardened prepare a bed on a warm border, by placing a three inch layer of rotten manure at the bottom, and a couple of inches of good soil on top. In this plant the seedlings six inches apart each way. See that the soil is kept moist, and have some mats or frame-lights to put over them in case of frost. Those reared in a cold frame or out of doors should be transplanted in a similar way and in a similar bed as soon as they can be handled To ensure good Celery the seedlings must not b3 allowed to remain too long in the seed boxes or the beds. Keep them growing nicely from the first, so as to get nice, sturdy plants. It should be remembered, moreover, that the young seedlings require a rich, generous soil ; therefore, where the bed cannot be prepared as suggested, fork in some old potting mould and decayed manure, so as to make about four inches of good compost for the seedlings to root in. Whilst the seedlings arc in the bed never allow them to suffer through want of moisture. Culture in Trenches. — In small gardens, trenches should be formed three feet apart from centre to centre. Where there is ample room, however, it is better to have them four feet apart from centre to centre. The trenches should run from north to south, and be away from the shade of trees. Where the trenches are only three feet apart, dig them one foot wide and a foot deep. Where the beds are four feet apart, make the trenches eighteen inches wide and a foot deep. Some growers only make their trenches fifteen inches wide, but we consider it better to have them the width advised ; 186 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. it provides a larger bed of good stuff for the roots to feed on. Fork up the bottom of each trench, then put in six inches of well decayed manure, and three inches of soil on the top. If the natural soil be not over good, substitute some better mould. Where stable manure is difficult to obtain, dig the trenches only nine inches deep, and put in six inches of a compost of loam, decayed vegetable refuse, burnt earth and decayed manure. Very good Celery can be grown thus, if the artificial manures previously mentioned are used. Culture in Beds. — This system answers well where a large quantity of Celery is required. Trenches four and a-half to six feet wide, and ten inches deep, should be dug out, and the soil placed in equal quantities on each side. Fork the bottom of the bed over deeply, and if the soil be poor, work in some manure. On the top place five inches of rotten dung, and cover this with three inches of soil. If more than one bed be required, form them four and a half to six feet apart. These beds should run from north to south. Catch Crops. — If the trenches or beds are formed early, say at the end of April, the tops of the ridges may be sown or planted with lettuces, or sown with dwarf French beans. These crops will be finished by the time the Celery is required to be earthed up, and the most will consequently be made of the space. Planting in Trenches. — This should be done, where possible, in rainy weather. Should the season be a dry one, give the soil in the trenches a good watering a few hours before planting. Do the same also to the bed containing the plants. In moist weather the planting may be done by day ; in dry weather do it in the evening. Lift each plant carefully with a good ball of roots and earth, and put it in a shallow box or basket. When you reach the trench plant the dwarf sorts six inches, or the stronger ones nine inches, apart, along the centre. It will be noticed that we only recommend one row of plants in a trench. Some plant two, but we regard this as a mis- take. It is far better to have one good row than two indifferent ones. Make a good hole with a trowel or hand-fork for each plant, fix the latter in, disturbing its roots as little as possible, POPULAR VEGETABLES. 187 and press the soil round firmly. Water each batch of plants as planted, to prevent them flagging. Planting in Beds. -Here the plants should be put in rows a foot apart, across the beds, the plants being six inches apart in the rows. Plant and treat in the same careful way as advised for planting in trenches. General Treatment. — Subsequent culture consists of keeping the soil moist in dry weather ; stirring the surface occasionally to keep the soil open and sweet, and free from weeds ; removing any off-sets or decaying outside leaves ; and feeding as advised in the paragraph on manures. If slugs are troublesome, occasional dustings of soot or slaked lime will prevent these pests doing injury, and benefit the plants at the same time. Earthing or Moulding Up. — As a general rule, five to six weeks are required from the time of final earthing up till the Celery is properly blanched. Now, as this operiuion should be gradually done, and not all at once, it follows that if blanched Celery be required late in September, earthing up should begin early in August, and be completed by the end of that month at the latest. For the later crops, too, it is well to begin early in August. The first earthing up should be done by means of a trowel, adding, say, about three inches of fine mould to the base of each plant. Do not press the soil too closely at first. Ten days to a fortnight later earth up a little more, and after a similar interval repeat the operation, and do the final earthing up a week or so later. In the process of earthing up first remove all offsets and decaying or small outer leaves. See, too, at the first and second earthing, the stems are drawn close together, so that soil does not find its way into the "heart" of the plant. At the third earthing, it will be better to carefully draw the stems together with one hand, and secure them by a straw of bast. This will facilitate the earthing process. The Americans have a novel way of securing the stems prior to earthing. A tin canister, with a hole in the bottom, is attached to a piece of wood, and this strapped to the wrist. In the can is a ball of twine, one end of which 188 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. passes through the hole at the bottom. With one haurl the first plant is drawn together, and the end of the twine secured round it. The next plant is drawn together, and the twine simply wound round it once, the next plant being treated likewise, and so on, till the row is completed, when the twine is secured to the last plant. By means of this novel con- trivance a row of plants is quickly done. In earthing up choose fine weather when the soil is quite dry. The second, third, and final earthings should be done with the spade, hut the soil should he placed next to the stems with one hand. At the final earthing do not carry the soil higher than the leaves, and let the ridge slope gradually, making its surface smooth and firm with the hack of the spade. We ought, perhaps, to mention that some gardeners use sheets of brown paper for surrounding each plant prior to earthing, with the idea that it prevents the soil getting into the " hearts" of the plants. This plan answers well on light soils, but on heavy ones the paper soon rots, and causes the stems to decay. This difficulty is often avoided by gradually drawing up the paper at each subsequent earthing. At one time Celery collars were used for the same purpose. Protection from Rain and Frost. — In rainy districts, a plan we saw adopted in Lancashire, of nailing two nine-inch boards together at right angles, to form a kind of roof to put along the top of the ridge, proved an excellent means of preventing rain or frost from reaching the "hearts." IE some dry litter be placed along the top of the ridge, before putting on the temporary roof, the protection will be still more effectual. Where litter, straw or bracken is plentiful, a thick layer placed over the top and sides of the ridge will keep out a great deal of frost. Gathering the Crop. — Celery is usually ready for use about five to six weeks after the final earthing. To lift the plants, carefully remove the soil on each side, and then insert the spade or fork beneath the roots, give a good pressure on the handle, and then the plants may be pulled out. If any plants be left partially exposed in the ridge, cover with soil. Trim off the cor.rse, imperfectly blanched outer leaves, and cut POPULAR VEGETABLES. 189 off the roots, leaving the solid base, and the plant is ready for the cook. In the event of severe weather being anticipated, lift a f ew plants and bury them in sand in a cool place till wanted. Exhibition Notes. — The culture of exhibition Celery, so far as the trenches and manures are concerned, is precisely as advised for ordinary purposes. It is advisable, however, to adopt a different treatment with regard to raising the plants. Thus, the seed ought to be sown in February, in a tempera- ture of 60 degrees, and the seedlings either planted singly in thumb pots, or two inches apart in boxes, using a compost of equal parts loam and leaf-mould. Keep in heat near the glass till well rooted, when transfer to three and a-balf inch pots, or plant three inches apart in further boxes. Keep in warmth till established, when remove to a cold frame, and gradually harden off. In the case of the pot plants, these should be transferred to five-inch pots, whereas those in boxes should either be planted out six inches apart in a bed of good soil in a cold frame, or on a south border. Plant out finally at the end of May, allowing a distance of a foot to fifteen inches from plant to plant. See to watering and feeding. About six to eight weeks before the exhibition, select the best plants, pull off any offsets and small outer or decaying leaves, then draw the stems together, and bind a strip of stout brown paper round, and tie this securely with twine. Add a fresh roll of paper every ten to twelve days, taking care each time not to fix the latter higher than the lower leaves. A little soil may be built up round the paper as the plant increases in height. The usual width of each roll or baud of paper is five inches. In this case, earthing up in the ordinary way is not required, as the plants will not have to withstand the winter. For exhibition purposes, the " heads " or " sticks " must be solid, clean, and well blanched. Hollow and cankery or fractured stems should be avoided. Seven points represent the exhibition value of good celery, two each being allocated for size, solidity, and condition, and one for uniformity. 190 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Chamomile. Botanical Name. — Anthemis nobilis. Foreign Names. — Not known. Natural Order. — Composite. Native Habitat. — Britain. Duration. — Perennial. History. — The Chamomile has been grown in English gardens for several hundred years Gerarde, the sixteenth century herbalist, says it was planted largely for pleasure and profit, and that the flowers were used in the bath to rarity the skin, open the pores, etc. Uses. — This herb is cultivated for the sake of its flowers, which are used for medicinal purposes. Large quantities of it used to be grown in the neighbourhood of Mitcham, and, for aught we know to the contrary, may still be grown there. Soil. — Chamomile does best on a light soil and in a sunny position. As the crop will stand for several years the land aiust be deeply dug and well manured prior to planting. Culture. — Chamomile may be propagated by seeds, off-sets, and division, the last being the easiest method. If by seeds, sow them in sandy soil, in a sunny spot outdoors in April, and transplant the seedlings as soon as large enough to handle. If by off-sets, remove these with a " heel," and plant them six inches apart in nursery rows till rooted, then finally plant out. If by divisions, lift the old plants in March, pull them to pieces, and plant them two feet apart in rows two and a-half feet asunder. Keep the soil well hoed to prevent weeds gain- ing the upper hand. When the plants show si^ns of exhaus- tion, clear them off the ground, and crop with something else, making a new plantation elsewhere. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 191 Gathering the Crop.— The flowers should be gathered and dried directly they begin to expand. As there will be a constant succession of flowers all the summer, the blooms will require to be gathered daily or weekly. Chervil. Botanical Name. — Anthriscus cerefolium. Foreign Names. — French, Cerfeuil ; German, Kerbel : Flemish and Dutch, Kervel ; Danish, Have-kjorvel ; Italian, Cerfoglio ; Spanish, Perifollo ; Portuguese, Cerefolio. Natural Order. — Umbelliferse. Native Habitat. — Southern Europe. Duration. — Annual. History. — A herb long cultivated in this country. Gerarde alludes to it as growing in his garden at Holborn in 1590. It is, perhaps, a more popular herb with the French and Dutch than with English folk, though it is grown now in most large gardens. The planb has naturalized itself in some parts of England. Uses. — The Common and the Curled Chervil are herbs used for flavouring soups and salads. Soil. — Chervil will grow in sun or shade. It requires a light and fairly rich soil. Culture. — To ensure a regular supply sow the seeds in shallow drills nine inches apart, at intervals of a mouth, from February to October. The September and October sowings will do best on a border facing south, where, if necessary, a portion can be protected by means of a cold frame in very severe weather. The seedlings should be thinned out early to four inches apart. In the summer-time rows of this herb may be sown between rows of bush fruits, or any of the permanent 192 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. herb crops, during their first year. Small quantities may also be sown in boxes in forcing houses, if an outdoor supply runs short. Gathering the Crop. — The young leaves should be gathered when a couple of inches high. Chicory. Botanical Name. - Cichorium intybus. Foreign Names. — French, Chicor'e Sanvage or Barbe- de-Capucin ; German, Cichorie ; Danish, Sichorie ; Dutch, Suikerei ; Italian, Cicoria Selvatica ; Spanish, Achicoria ; Belgian, Witloof ; Portuguese, Chicoria. Natural Order. — Composites. Native Habitat. — Europe (including England). Duration . — Perennial. History. — Though a wild plant in calcareous districts in England, the Chicory does not appear to have been cultivated as a vegetable in this country until the last century. On the Continent, however, it appears to have been grown for ages as a salad vegetable, as well as for the sake of its roots, which are roasted and ground to powder for mixing with coffee The variety known as Barbe-de-Capucin, so popular in France, is now (in conjunction with an improved form of the wild Chicory) grown fairly extensively in English gardens for yielding winter salading. Uses. — On the Continent Chicory is grown for its blanched leaves as salading, also for its roots for cooking and eating like parsnips, and for roasting and grinding to mix with coffee. In England its use is confined to furnishing an appetising winter salading. Soil. — To grow good Chicory, the soil must be deep, not too heavy, and fairly rich. On no account must fresh manure be POPULAR VEGETABLES. 193 added, otherwise the roots will be coarse, forked, and unsuit- able for forcing. Trench the land two spits deep the previous winter, and well work it in the succeeding spring. Manures. — As just explained, fresh dung must not be used. If the soil be very poor, work in a small quantity of rotten manure and decayed refuse when trenching. ' Just before sowing, a dusting of guano, at the rate of three pounds per square rod, will be the additional feeding required. When and How to Sow. — The best time to sow is the middle of June. If sown earlier the plants are apt to flower, and weak roots will be the result. Draw drills an inch deep and a foot apart, and sow the seeds very thinly. Cover with fine soil. General Culture. — When the seedlings are a few inches high, thin them out to nine inches apart in the rows. Use the hoe frequently to keep down weeds and aerate the soil. Should any plants attempt to flower, remove the flower-stems at once. Lifting the Roots. — By the end of November the roots will have attained their full growth, and a part of the whole may be lifted for blanching. If more are lifted than required, those not needed should at once be " heeled in " at the back of a north wall. It is really better to do this than to leave them in the ground. When lifted, cut off all the leaves just above the crown of the root. Blanching. — This may be accomplished in a heated mushroom-house, in boxes under the staging of an ordinary heated greenhouse, or in a dark cellar. Darkness in all cases is absolutely essential. Whether placed in the mushroom- house or in boxes elsewhere, pack the roots closely together in sand or light soil, allowing the crowns to just show through the surface. If to be blanched in a cellar, stack the roots in horizontal layers in sand or soil. Introduce a score of roots or so at a time. It usually takes a fortnight to produce blanched leaves in heat, and a month in a cellar. The leaves are ready to gather when a foot long. Generally speaking, the first crop of leaves are the best, the second one being somewhat small, H 194 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. After the second cutting the roots are useless, and should be thrown away. It will not be necessary to give water unless the soil gets very dry. Once more we repeat, that to get the delicate creamy white leaves, light must be absolutely excluded. Chinese Artichoke. Botanical Name.- Stachys tuberifera. Foreign Name. — French, Crosnes du Japoii. Natural Order. — Labiate. Native Habitat. — North China and Japan. Duration. — Perennial. History. — This vegetable was first introduced about 1885 and is grown more extensively in France than in England. When its merits become more fully known it may be culti- vated more largely here. Those who have grown the plant speak favourably of its easy cultivation, of its great prolificacy, and of its dietetic value. Uses. — The plant is grown for its pearly-white, curiously- jointed small tubers, which are cooked and eaten similar to those of the Jerusalem Artichoke ; indeed, the tubers may be eaten raw by those who have acquired a taste for them. Soil. — This vegetable will succeed on any ordinary well- tilled soil. The soil need not be very rich, as the plant is very prolific in the quantity of tubers it bears. Manures. — A moderate dressing of rotten manure or decayed refuse is all that is necessary. Planting. — The best time to plant is in March or early in April. Draw drills four inches deep and eighteen inches apart, and plant the tubers a foot asunder in the row. After planting, all that is necessary is to keep the soil well stirred and free from weeds. No earthing up is required. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 195 Lifting and Storing. — When the foliage dies down in autumn the tubers may be lifted for use as wanted, or stored in any cool shed or outhouse. The tubers should not be exposed long to the light, otherwise they will lose their attractiveness as well as flavour. We prefer to leave them in the ground till wanted. The whole of the crop must, how- ever, be lifted by March, or else the tubers will start to grow. Take care not to leave any tubers in the ground, otherwise they will prove a troublesome pest to other crops planted thereon. Cora Salad. Botanical Name. — Valerianella olitoria. Synonym. — Lamb's Lettuce. Foreign Names. — French, Mache commune; German, Ackersalat ; Dutch and Flemish, Koornsalad ; Italian, Valeriana ; Spanish, Canonigos ; Portuguese, Herva benta. Natural Order. — Valerianacere. Native Habitat. — Europe (including Britain). Duration. — Annual. History. —There is practically nothing very remarkable about the history of this salad vegetable to record. It appears to have been grown more or less for the last hundred years. A few market gardeners in the neighbourhood of London cultivate and place it on the market during the winter. In France, however, it is more extensively grown. Uses. — Corn Salad is used purely for mixed salads. It has a pleasant flavour, and being available during the winter months has a distinct value. Being easy to grow, a small patch ought certainly to be grown in every vegetable garden. Soil. — Any good ordinary soil will suit the growth of Corn Salad. If poor, fork in some rotten manure before sowing. h2 196 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Culture. — The seeds may be sown broadcast on a sunny border, or in shallow drills six inches apart. Make the first sowing about the middle of August, and if a succession of plants be required, repeat the sowing fortnightly up to the end of September. Water the bed occasionally in dry weather, and keep free from weeds. In severe weather, throw a little straw litter over the beds to serve as a protection. Gathering the Crop. — The plants may be gathered for use as soon as they have formed three or four leaves. Simply pull them up, cut off the roots, and remove damaged outer leaves ; wash thoroughly, and they are ready for the salad bowl. Chives. Botanical Name. — Allium schoonoprasnm. Foreign Names. — French, Ciboulette, Civette ; German, Schnittlauch ; Flemish and Dutch, Bieslook ; Italian, Cipollina , Spanish, Cebollina. Natural Order. — Liliaeeae. Native Habitat. — Britain. Duration. — Perennial. History. — A native plant, formerly grown extensively in cottage and farmhouse gardens, especially in Scotland. Uses. — This herb is a relative of the Onion, and its shoots are used on account of their mildness for flavouring soups, salads, etc. Soil. — Any kind of soil or position will suit this cr op. Culture. —Chives are propagated by division of the roots in October or March. Plant the divisions six inches apart, in rows a foot asunder. Top-dress in autumn with some rotten POPULAR VEGETABLE'S. 197 dung, fork this in in spring, and afterwards keep the surface free from weeds. Renew the bed every third year. Gathering the Crop. — Cut the shoots off close to the crown of the plant as required for use. Clary. Botanical Name. — Salvia Sclarea. Foreign Name. — French, Sauge Sclaree. Natural Order. — Labiatte. Native Habitat. —South Europe. Duration. — Biennial. History. — We have nothing of interest to record about this herb, except that it was introduced in 1562. Uses. — The leaves are used for flavouring soups. Culture. — Sow the seed in shallow drills, fifteen inches apart, any time in April. When the seedlings appear, thin them out to a foot apart. Ordinary soil and a sunny position. Make fresh sowings annually. Gathering the Crop. — Gather the leaves in August, dry them, then rub up fine, and store in bottles for winter use. Coriander. Botanical Name. — Coriandrum sativum. Foreign Names. — French, Coriaudre ; German, Cori ander ; Dutch and Flenish, Koriander ; Italian, Coriandorlo ; Spanish, Culantro. Natural Order. — Umbelliferse. 198 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Native Habitat. — Levant Duration . — Annual. History. — We have no data as to when this aromatic- seeded annual was first introduced into England. There is no doubt, however, that it has long been an inhabitant, since it has become naturalised in our fields in many parts. At one time it was extensively grown as a field crop in Essex. Uses. — Coriander is occasionally grown in gardens for the sake of its aromatic seeds, which are used for flavouring curries, etc., and also for its young leaves, which are employed for a similar purpose, including salads. Culture. — Sow seeds in shallow drills a foot apart, once a month from April to August for a supply of young leaves ; and in April for yielding seeds. Ordinary soil and a south border will suffice. Gathering the Crop. — Gather the young leaves as required. The seed ripens in August. Gather then, dry in the sun, and store in stoppered bottles. Couve Tronchuda. Botanical Name. — Brassiea oleracea costata. Synonym. — Portugal Cabbage. Foreign Names. — French, Chou a, Grosses Cotes : Portu guose, Couve Tronchuda. Natural Order. — Crucifera;. Native Habitat. — Portugal. Duration . — Biennial. History. — This is a variety of Cabbage, with large, thick, white midribs, originally in I rod need into this country from POPULAR VEGETABLES. 199 Traxuda, hi Portugal, in 1821. It docs not appear to have been grown very extensively in this country at any time, although it is certainly a delicious vegetable. Uses. — -The fleshy, white midribs of the large outer leaves are cooked and served similarly to Seakale. The " heart " is like that of an ordinary Cabbage, and may be cooked in the same way. Culture. — This vegetable is a vigorous grower, and requires a rich, we'1-tilled, ordinary soil, and a sunny position. Sow the seeds thinly in drills six inches apart early in April. When the seedlings have formed their third leaf transplant them six inches apart in a nursery bed. Early in June lift carefully and replant three feet apart each way. Keep the soil well stirred, and feed with one or more of the manures advised for Cabbages. Gathering the Crop. — Gather the midribs of the outer leaves first, and the " hearts" last of all. Cucumber. Botanical Name. — Cucumis sativus. Foreign Names. — French, Coneombre ; German, Gurke ; Dutch and Flemish, Komkommer ; Italian, Cetriolo ; Spanish, Cohombro ; Portuguese, Pepino ; Danish, Agurken. Natural Order. — Cucurbitaeeee. Duration. — Annual. History. — The Cucumber is one of the oldest of cultivated vegetables. According to Holy Writ, it was known to the ancient Israelites, for in Numbers, xi. 5, it is recorded that they complained to Moses because of the absence of the fruit. The Greeks and Romans were also well acquainted with the Cucumber. Pliny tells us that the Emperor Tiberius had a daily supply of Cucumbers throughout the year. The earliest record of Cucumbers in England occurs in the time of 200 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. King Edward III. (1327). For a time their cultivation was neglected, but a revival of interest in them occurred in the reign of King Henry VIII., since when, Cucumber culture in frames, in the open, and under glass, has become almost universal. Uses.— The ordinary Cucumber, when sliced and served with oil and vinegar, forms a popular salading. It is also occasionally boiled and served as a vegetable. The hardy out- door kinds — Gherkins — are also used for salading and pickling. Culture in Greenhouses. — Houses suitable for Cucum- ber culture must, if early fruit be desired, be well heated, there being enough hot-water pipes and boiler power to maintain a temperature ranging from 70 deg. in the day- time to 65 deg. by night without hard driving. It does not follow that the heat must on no account decline below those figures, an occasional drop of five or even ten deg. not being harmful, but those are the temperatures we like to maintain, and would rather the temperature in the day be kept nearer eighty. Either low span-roofed or lean-to houses are suitable, Cucumbers requiring plenty of light and heat, but will not stand strong sunshine. The plants ought to be trained over wire trellising or any temporary substitute fixed about twelve inches from the glass. When we had only a mixed span-roofed forcing house, in which to grow Cucumbers, melons, tomatoes, as well as a variety of flowering and foliaged plants, the melons and tomatoes were given the sunniest side, and the Cucumbers grown on the north side. By this it will be seen our house ran from east to west, but where the houses run from north to south it is immaterial which side the Cucumbers are grown. AVhether they are planted in pots, boxes, or ridges of soil, the best place for the plants to be trained is up the roof, and the fruit being suspended underneath, helps to create a pleasing effect. From June to October, the Cucumbers may be grown successfully in a cold house. The next thing to consider is rearing the plants. They should be reared on a gentle hot-bed formed in a forcing house and composed of leaves and stable manure in about equal pro- portions. The next best place for raising them is a frame set POPULAR VEGETABLES. 20\ on a hot-bed. The seeds ought not to be sown thickly in five- inch or larger pots — a plan still followed by a few growers — as this necessitates potting off, and a severe check being given. Instead of this, fill several cleaned and lightly-drained three- inch pots with loamy soil, and in the centre of each bury, two inches deep, a single sound seed, with the thinnest end uppermost. If the bed be rather dry, set the pots on the surface, but if the heat be gentle, plunge the pots up to the rims, and water if the soil is at all dry. In a few days the plants will come through the soil, and must still be kept on or hi the hot-bed, and well clear of all other kinds of plants. Place a light stake to each, and give tepid water as needed. The seedlings will soon fill the pots with roots, and before they are badly root-bound they ought to re- ceive a shift. Use clean, lightly- drained six-inch pots and rich loamy soil, warmed prior to potting. If the plants arc to be grown in a house and trained over a trellis on the roof, they ought not to have the point of their main shoots pinched off, but have the side or lateral shoots removed. Not a leaf ought to be broken, and the plants should be well raised near the glass and encouraged to grow strongly. While the plants are growing, the sites for them ought to be got ready, any delay in planting well-rooted plants causing a check to them. It is only the earliest plants that require so much pains to be taken with them, as those raised later on, singly in small pots, may be finally planted without a shift into larger pots being given. A Brace of Cucumbers. (Improved Telegraph. ) 202 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. A suitable compost consists of two-parts roughly broken turfy loam to one of burnt garden refuse, charcoal, and leaf soil. Failing partially decayed turf, use rather less of the best light, loamy soil procurable, and more of the materials named. Many err in using too heavy loam and a quantity of rotten manure, the former soon becoming sodden and cold, while the manure encourages the presence of eelworrns. A great mass of soil is not needed, and this should be kept in a sweet porous condition as long as possible. If there be a slate or slated-front staging, we recommend that a ridge of soil, or, better still, as many heaps as there are plants to be grown, be placed direct on this. Rather more than a bushel basket of compost should be given each plant, and the heaps ought to be not less than three feet apart. A wooden staging only being available, this, and the slates just alluded to, ought to be directly over the front of the hot-water pipes, the latter, however, not being enclosed in any way, unless there are plenty of others to afford the requisite amount of top heat. The Cucumbers may be grown in pots measuring fourteen inches across, or in old wine cases, or other strong and mode rately deep boxes. These should first have a layer of rough crocks or clinkers in the bottom for drainage, on this being- placed some of the roughest of the compost, finally about three- parts filling them with the latter. In every case the soil must be well warmed through before the Cucumbers are planted in it, and if the plants are ready, one or two heated bricks plunged in each heap will soon warm it through, these being removed prior to planting. See that the plants are in a moist state at the roots prior to turning them out of the pots, then plant, them just below the surface, and press the soil firmly, but not roughly, about the roots. Training, watering, and other details must be touched upon briefly. In the first place, a stake should be placed to each plant, and long enough to reach the lowest wire of the trellis overhead. To these the plants must be lightly fastened, care being taken to break none of the leaves. Side shoots will start from every joint, but none below the trellis should be allowed to grow. After the trellis is reached, continue to train the plant straight up the roof till the limit is reached, when it should be stopped, and lay in the side branches right and left. Most of the latter POPULAR VEGETABLES. 203 will aV, once show two kinds of flowers, male and female. The latter are those that will be followed by fruit, these, though very tiny, being detected at once. When the laterals are about eighteen inches long take out their points, and this, in addition to hastening the growth of the fruit, also leads to the formation of a more fruitful growth. As a rule, by the time plants in either pots or boxes have perfected one, or at the most, two fruit on each lateral, they will be exhausted, and perhaps, insect infested, in which case it is useless to attempt the growth of later crops on the second breaks or sub-laterals. Better by far keep the latter stopped at the first joint, the plant being cleared out when exhausted, and, if ueed be, re- placed by young ones. The laterals also ought to be thinned out early where at all crowded, nothing being gained by retaining all that form. Should the laterals fail to show fruit, which rarely happens, the breaks following upon stopping these are certain to be fruitful. Examine the soil frequently and give a thorough soaking with water directly it approaches dryness. Never let the plants flag or droop their leaves for want of water, and never use the latter in a cold state. A small galvanized iron tank or other receptacle ought to be set over or close to the hot- water pipes, and if this is kept full, the water will be both warm and soft, suitable alike for watering and syringing pur- poses. As soon as the first heap is thoroughly occupied by roots give a liberal top-dressing of compost similar to that previously used, this being warmed prior to applying it. The roots will soon take possession of this and any top-dressing given subsequently. Care, however, must be taken to keep the old soil moist till such times as the fresh soil has become incorporated with it. The top-dressing may be quite moist, and, at the same time, the old soil be very dry, and this must bo guarded against, or a failure will be the result. When the plants are commencing to fruit freely, some kind of liquid manure is necessary. Any that clogs the surface of the soil is unsuitable. We prefer occasional sprinklings of one of the artificial manures, this being applied in small quantities and washed in. Neglect to feed them, and the plants will soon cease to be profitable. Ventilation, shading, and syringing are details each deserv- 204 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. ing a separate paragraph, but space forbids. A little top air may be given when the temperature reaches 75 deg., and the house may well be kept up to 85 deg. with air on. When the sun has gained in power, either a thin blind should be drawn over the glass during the hottest part of the day, or a permanent thin sprinkling or shading of lime water be applied to the glass. Towards the end of April and during May the blinds should be drawn up from two to three o'clock in the afternoon, the house at once closed, and a thorough overhead syringing given to the plants and the other occupants of the house, the walls also being clamped. This early closing would raise the temperature to 90 deg. and upwards, and create a moist growing atmosphere, which would last well into the night. On the mornings of clear days an overhead syringing may well be given at about eight o'clock, and the floors should be damped down whenever found in a dry state. The longer and hotter the days become, the more air, shade, and moisture will be required. When grown very early, the earliest female flowers require to be fertilized towards midday with pollen from the male flowers, the latter being gathered, and after the petals are removed, gently inserted in the centre of the fully-expanded flower. From April onwards there is less or no need for this to be done, unless fruit is to be saved to perfect seed, plenty of fruit developing independently of any artificial impregnation. Too many, in fact, are liable to grow at one time, and these ought to be freely and early thinned out, or otherwise they will quite cripple the plants. Culture in Frames. — The culture of Cucumbers in frames on hot-beds has to a great extent been superseded of late years by cheap glasshouses, but this old-fashioned method still occupies an important position in many gardens, especially small ones. The advantage attending this system of culture to growers with small means is, that a large number of really good Cucumbers may be produced at a very little expense. To be successful with Cucumbers in frames, however, requires rather more care and attention than is necessary in glass- hou.-i's, ami strict attention to details is absolutely necessary at all tunes. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 205 The first and most important point, especially with early Cucumbers, is to form the hot-bed properly, so that a steady, lasting bottom heat is maintained. The materials required for a really good and lasting hot-bed are stable litter and leaves. in the proportion of about two parts of the former to one of the latter ; in the absence of leaves, which are not always obtainable, half-decayed hot-bed manure may be substituted to moderate the fermentation. The materials to be used should be prepared a week or two before they are wanted, by turning and well mixing two or three times, allowing an interval of a few days between. Should the stable litter be dry, sufficient water should be given to thoroughly moisten it. The site selected for the bed and frame should be in a warm, sunny, and if possible, sheltered position. As cold, drying winds in early spring rapidly extract the heat, it is sometimes a good plan to sink the bed in the ground part of its depth. This is easily done by first marking out the size of the bed, which should be a foot larger than the frame, and then excavating the soil to the depth of about one foot, placing the soil all round to make it about two feet in depth. Another advantage in having a pit for the bed is, that the latter is made up with greater facility, as it requires a skilled hand to build up a compact and permanent hot-bed on the surface of the ground. When finished, the bed should stand at least a foot or eighteen inches above the ground, so that the full depth, after it has been well trodden and thoroughly beaten down, may not be less than three feet. It is a very important point to see that the material is thoroughly trodden as the work of mak- ing up the bed proceeds, and before the frame is placed in position. In the matter of soil, Cucumbers are not so particular as some people imagine, although a good, turfy loam mixed with some rotten manure or old mushroom dung is probably as good as anything that can be used. If, however, loam is not obtainable, any fairly good garden soil will do almost equally well. Whether loam or garden soil be used, the manure may be added in the proportion of about five parts of the former to one of the latter. In putting the compost in the frame, it is a good plan to place it in sloping mounds in the centre of each light, the depth of which may vary according to the depth of 206 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. the frame. A thermometer should then be inserted in one of the mounds of soil. When the temperature of the bed has declined to 85 or 90 deg. the seed may bo sown. Two or three seeds should be sown in the centre of each mound, covered to the depth of an inch, and then well watered with tepid water. When the young plants have grown large enough that it can be seen which is likely to be the strongest, they may be thinned, leaving the best and most vigorous-looking. One plant will usually be sufficient under each light, unless the frame is a very large one, when two may be left to each light, one plant being trained to the front, and the other towards the back of the frame. As soon as the young plants are above the soil, the greatest care will be requisite in admitting air, only sufficient being given to prevent the temperature rising above 90 deg., closing as early as possible. On cold nights, it will be necessary to well cover the lights with mats or other suitable material ; a single thickness of mats may be used, on which should be spread some straw, bracken-fern, or long stable litter, putting on sufficient to keep the frame warm. Cucum- bers do not usually remain healthy in frames ; when exposed for any length of time to very strong sunshine, the foliage assumes a yellow tinge, and becomes infested with red spider. During bright sunshine, the plants should, therefore, be shaded, and a quick and easy way of shading a frame is to sprinkle a little of the covering material over the glass, such as loose straw or litter; this is easily swept off with a hair-broom or hand-brush. If this kind of shading is objected to, a covering of thin canvas may be used. Although the soil in which Cucumbers are growing should be kept moist, anything like a soddened condition should be avoided. Whenever water is required it should be given warm, and at a temperature of 80 to 90 deg., and sufficient applied at one time to thoroughly moisten the soil. On warm, dry days, when watering of the roots is not requisite, a good sprinkling with a rose watering can or syringe, with clean tepid water, is an important detail in keeping the plants healthy and clean. As soon as the young plants have made a second or third POPULAR VEGETABLES. 207 leaf the top should be pinched out. This will induce the formation of two or three main shoots, which should be care- fully spread out over the bed at equal distances apart, and kept in their places with small wooden pegs. As these young shoots are very brittle, the greatest care is necessary in manipulating them, or they are very liable to break. When four to six more leaves have been made these main shoots may be again stopped, and the laterals or side shoots produced from this stopping will show fruit. It is not advisable to allow more than one fruit to a lateral, so that the best looking fruit should be left, and the others picked off. All laterals should be stopped above one leaf beyond the fruit ; and as Cucumber plants grow very fast in warm weather, daily and systematic pinching will be necessarj', or the frame will quickly become a thicket of tangled growth. Thinning out a few of the crowded shoots occasionally and regularly will also be necessary, clearing out weeds at the same time. To keep the fruit clean it is a good plan to raise each on a piece of wood or tile. It should be borne in mind that it is much better to thin out a few shoots frequently than to allow the wood and foliage to become crowded, and then cut out a quantity of growth at one time. The chief points to be attended to are the systematic laying out of the shoots so as to cover the bed, stopping them regularly, and disposing of them generally so as to secure the greatest amount of light and air possible to every leaf. Should the weather set in cold and the heat of the bed decline, a good lining around the frame of fresh stable litter mixed with some leaves or partly decayed manure will soon raise the temperature. The lining should be a foot to eighteen inches in width, and be well trodden down. Winter Cucumbers. — Cucumbers for fruiting in winter should be sown in September. Fruit will then be forthcoming in November. Well wash the Cucumber-house, then sow the seed in small, well-drained pots, employing a compost of light, loamy soil, and a little leaf-mould or horse manure and coarse sand. Sow two seeds in each pot, and when the young plants are two inches high, draw out the weakest. Plunge the puts in a warm bed of leaves as close tp 208 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. the light as convenient, and keep the soil on the dry side till the plants are up. When the first pair of rough leaves are formed shift the plants into pots four inches in diameter, using similar compost to that already recommended for the seed, only in a somewhat rougher state. Syringe them in the afternoon on fine days, and water carefully with luke- warm water. In a month from sowing the seed the plants will be fit for planting out. First, fill the pit with leaves, then place thereon small mounds of loamy soil to which has been added a fifth part of well-decayed horse manure. A yard apart is a good distance for the mounds, and these must become well warmed through previous to planting. Well water the plant twenty-four hours before planting, and plant firmly one plant in each mound. Give a gentle watering, mulch round the plants with leaf-mould or horse droppings, and support them by neat sticks. A temperature of 65 to 70 deg. at night, with a rise of 10 or 15 deg. from sun heat will suit them well. Syringe lightly morning and afternoon on sunny days, and keep the flowers and walls well moistened. Give air cautiously, and only in sunny weather. When new roots appear on the surface of the mounds, cover them with a little fresh warm soil, and as soon as the main shoot reaches the top of the. trellis, stop it, and train the laterals a good distance apart, thinning them out from time to time in order to expose them to the action of sun and air. When the fruit is set, water with weak liquid manure once a week, and pinch the laterals at the second joint beyond the fruit. From the middle of December to February, the night temperature should not exceed 60 deg., and the glass must be kept scrupulously clean. The fewer fruits the plants carry during winter the better. t Ridge Cucumbers. — There are plenty ot gardens where frames and glasshouses are an unattainable luxury, and therefore, the growing of the ordinary Cucumber is altogether jut of the question. It very often happens, too, that those ivho are thus unfortunately situated, are specially fond of, Jucumbers in the summer time. If there are any such, it POPULAR VEGETABLES. 209 will be well to remind them that they can grow a plentiful supply of Cucumbers, without the aid of any of the conve- niences mentioned above ; and although the fruit may not be so large, it will be none the less palatable. We are here referring to the hardy Ridge Cucumber, which is grown by the acre in some parts of Bedfordshire and around London. This kind is preferred by many who have opportunities of growing the better ones, owing to the sweet, crisp, and tender nature of the flesh. Not only is it so good for salads, but also for forming one of the best ingredients in the mixed pickle jar ; in fact, many persons grow the Ridge Cucumber for this purpose only. Whether grown for salads or for pickling, the culture is the same. Any open sunny spot will do for the bed, which may consist of either manure, ranging from a barrow to a cart load in bulk, or of weeds and other vegetable matter that has been allowed to accumulate in a heap for some time. Every scrap of rubbish may be utilized for the purpose, and if a little fresh manure be added to it, also a small quantity of lime, and the whole thoroughly mixed together, and then thrown into a conical heap, sufficient heat will generate to assist the germina- tion of the seeds. The larger the heap, the greater the number of plants required, and of course, the more abundant the crop ; but for qll ordinary purposes, small heaps of a couple of barrow- loads in bulk are much to be preferred, as then there is less danger of overcrowding of the foliage. On the summit of each heap, about a bushel of the best soil that can be got should be put, and in the centre of this place three or four seeds, about two inches apart and two inches deep. This, of course, must be done the second and later weeks in May — not earlier, except in very warm favoured districts. When the seedlings show the third leaf, the strongest pair should be selected, and the remainder removed either for planting another bed or discarding. In June, we we would advise the number of plants to be reduced to one on each bed, thus affording ample space for the full development of the plant. The after cultivation consists of pinching off the points of the shoots when a foot long. No further stopping will be required. Later on, the shoots may be pegged down to the 210 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. surface of the soil. See, too, that the plants have plenty oi moisture in dry weather. When the plants are well estab- lished, mulch the surface with decayed manure to keep the soil cool and moist. To protect the fruits from injury by coming in contact with the soil, place a piece of slate or tile under each as soon as it is an inch or so long. The Japanese Climbing Cucumber is grown in the same way, except that pea- sticks are provided for the shoots to cling to. Manures for Cucumbers. — When the Cucumber is in a healthy condition, and bearing freely, frequent applications of liquid manure are highly beneficial. Those who can com- mand plenty of liquid draiuings from a stable or cow byre, or have the facility for making liquid manure, by steeping cow, horse, sheep or poultry dung in water, have one of the best of all fertilizers for Cucumbers. Failing the foregoing, then we advise the soil to be watered occasionally with one ounce of sulphate of ammonia, and one ounce of superphosphate to a gallon of water. Apply one gallon per plant once or twice a week, first moistening the soil, if dry, with water. Every two or three weeks apply a solution of sulphate of iron, one ounce to a gallon of water. This will help to ward off disease. If the plants appear exhausted, and want a fillip to help them along, mix together one part of nitrate of soda, one of guano, one of kainit, and a quarter part of sulphate of iron ; or one part of diied blood, two parts of superphosphate, and a quarter part of sulphate of iron, and sprinkle half an ounce of this over each square yard once a week. Exhibition Notes. — If the instructions given in the sections on frame and greenhouse culture are faithfully carried out, good exhibition fruits will be obtained without much diffi- culty. The best fruits will be obtained from comparatively young plants, and great oare must be exercised not to allow too many fruits to develop on a plant. To get perfect specimens, they must be encouiagec! to grow quickly, say, in ten to twelve days from the time of flowering. Avoid syringing the fruits if possible, as this destroys the " bloom," or powder, on the skin. The exhibitor may find it necessary POPULAR VEGETABLES. '211 to use cucumber glasses to train the young fruit-:, in order to get them perfectly straight. Specimens for exhibition should be fairly uniform in length, thickness, and colour, have short ends or necks, and the blooms intact on their points. Perfect specimens are worth six points : three being the maximum for freshness, bloom, and orispuess ; two for uniformity of colour and length ; and one for size. Cucumbers are generally exhibited in pairs, laid on green moss in shallow boxes, or on dishes garnished with parsley. Dandelion. Botanical Name. — Taraxacum Dens-leonis. Foreign Names. — French, Dent-de-lion ; German, Lowen- zahn ; Italian, Dente di leone. Natural Order. — Composita). Native Habitat.— Europe (including Britain). Duration . — Perennial. History. — Although a common weed, in fact, one of the worst weed pests of our lawns and pastures, the Dandelion was not despised by the ancients. The Romans knew it, and used it medicinally, and the French and Italian folk have long esteemed the green and blanched leaves as a delicious vegetable. In England, we are glad to say, people are be- ginuing to appreciate the dietetic value of Dandelion leaves as a salad, and, consequently, it is frequently cultivated in gardens. Phillips, writing in 1821, says: — "We have always found it desirable to have some plants taken from the pastures or road sides, and planted in our garden to blanch for the spring, as then it is an agreeable herb to mix with other salads, and may be procured when lettuce or endive are not easily obtained." 212 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Uses. — The young leaves in a blanched state, mixed with corn-salad, mustard, and cress, etc., make an agreeable winter or early spring salad. In a green condition the leaves are equally wholesome, but we prefer them blanched. Culture. — Any ordinary deeply-dug soil will suffice for this plant. The soil should, however, be fairly rich by manuring for a previous crop. Sow the seeds thinly in May, in shallow drills one foot apart. As soon as the seedlings are well up, thin them out to a foot apart. Keep the soil well hoed to prevent the growth of weeds, and if any flower-stems should form, remove them. Blanching. — This may be done in two ways, viz., in the beds, or by lifting, and placing the roots in a dark cellar, mushroom house, or other dark position. We prefer lifting the roots as required, placing them fairly close together, with sand or soil between, in deep boxes, or stacking them as advised for chicory. In all cases light must be excluded. The slightest warmth will induce growth and a good crop of creamy white leaves. In the event of the soil becoming dry, give water, not otherwise. When the roots cease to produce leaves, turn them out to be burnt on the rubbish heap. In gathering for use simply pull off the best leaves. Dill. Botanical Name.— Peucedanum graveolens. Foreign Names. — French, Aneth ; German, Dill ; Flemish, Dille; Danish, Dild; Italian, Aneto ; Spanish, Kneldo. Natural Order. — Umbelliferte. Native Habitat. — Spain, etc. Duration. — Biennial POPULAR VEGETABLES. 213 History.— Dill was first cultivated in England in 1597. It is supposed to be the plant Anise, referred to in the New Testament. Uses. — A herb used for flavouring soups, sauces, and pickles ; for making dill-water, a medicinal specific ; and for distilling, to yield oil of .Dill. Soil. — Ordinary, light. Culture.— Sow the seeds in March, in shallow drills nine inches apart, and thin the seedlings to eight inches asunder. Keep free from weeds, and supply with water in dry weather. The Dill being a biennial, dies the second year. Gathering the Crop.— For culinary purposes gather the leaves as required. For other purposes gather just before the seed is ripe. Egg Plant. Botanical Name. — Solatium melongena. Foreign Names. — French, Aubergine; German, Eier- pflanze ; Flemish, Eierplant ; Italian, Petonciano ; Spanish, Berengena ; Portuguese, Bringela. Native Habitat. — Tropics. Natural Order. — SolanaceEs. Duration. — Annual. History. — The Egg-plant, or Aubergine of the French, was grown in tropical countries long before it found its way to Europe Gerarde, in the first edition of his "Herbal" (1596), says, " This plant groweth in Egypt almost everywhere, in sandie fieldes, euven of itselfc, bringing foorth fruite of the bigness of a great cucumber." The same authority states that its culture was tried in London gardens, but that, owiDg to our climate, it failed to ripen its fruit. In those days there 214 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. were no hothouses to rear the young plants, or, in fact, to grow plants generally of a tender nature, and hence it is not to be wondered at that Gernrde and his contemporaries failed to grow the Egg-plant satisfactorily. The Portuguese probably introduced the plant to Europe from the West Indies, and the French, with their partiality for all kinds of fruit and vegetables, appear to have taken up its culture in earnest. It is only of late years that the Egg-plant has been grown in English gardens for food ; formerly, it was regarded as an ornamental plant only. Uses. — The oval, or oblong white, purple and varie- gated fruits are delicious when sliced and fried in butter PUBFLE AUBiSKUINE OR EuG FeOIT. and served with lemon. The French scoop out the seeds, and stuff the interior with minced herbs, bread crumbs, raw egg and lemon juice, then serve with butter. The whito kind, generally grown for ornament, is not so nicely flavoured as the purple ones, known as Aubergines. Culture. — To ensure properly developed fruit, the plants must be grown under glass. Sow seeds in January or February, in a temperature of 65 to 75 deg. As s .on as the seedlings can be handled, transplant them singly in thumb pots, using a compost of two parts light loam, and one part of equal proportions of decayed manure, leaf-mould and sand. iJrow close to the glass in the same temperature. When well POPULAR VEGETABLES. 2l5 rooted, transfer to four and a-hnlf inch pots, using a similar compost. Later on transfer to eight or ten-inch pots. When the plants are six inches high, nip off their points. Allow two shoots to grow, and when these are three inches long, remove their points also. No further pinching will be needed. Each plant should be allowed to bear four fruits and no more. Remove any further laterals that may form, syringe freely to keep off red spider, keep moist at the roots, and feed occasionally with liquid or artificial manure. Gathering the Crop. --The fruit is ready to gather when of a fair size, and the flavour is more delicious if gathered before too old. Generally speaking, the fruit is ready for use from August onwards. Endive. Botanical Name. — Cichorium Eudivia. Foreign Names. — French, Chicoree Endive; German, Endivien ; Dutch and Flemish, Andijvie ; Italian, Indivia ; Spanish, Eudivia ; Danish, Endivien. Natural Order. — Composite. Native Habitat. — Mediterranean region. Duration . — Annual. History. — The Endive belongs to the same genus as the Chicory, and has been cultivated from time immemorial by the Greeks and Romans as a salad vegetable. Ovid, the Roman poet, wrote (43 b.c.) : — ■ " A garden Salad was the third supply, Of Endive, Radishes, and Succory." Succory, by the way, is another name for Chicory. Endive appears to have been first cultivated in English gardens in the reign of King Edward VI. (1548). Gerarde, in his " Herbal," gives a quaint description of the method of pre- 216 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. serving Endive in the time of Queen Bess. He says : — "Endive being sown in July, it remainetli till winter, at which time it is taken vp by the rootes and Jaide in the sunne or aire for the space of two houres ; then will the leaues be tough, and easily endure to be wrapped upon an heape and buried in the earth with the rootes vpwards, where no earth can get within it, which, if it did, would cause rotten- ness : the which so couered may be taken vp at times con- uenient and vsed in sallades all the winter, as in London and other places is to be seene ; and then it is called White Endine." At the present day Endive is grown in every large garden, while in France it is one of the most popular vegetables. Uses. — In England the blanched " hearts " are used as a salad, but in France they are also cooked and eaten as a vegetable. Soil. — The most suitable soil for Endive culture is a light, rich loam. Heavy clamp soils are not suitable. The position moreover, must be an open sunny one, a south border being as good a place as any. Manures. — Fresh, rank manure should not be used. Well decayed, old hot-bed material, or decayed vegetable refuse, is best. The latter should be freely used if the soil is at all heavy. When the plants are established water the soil occasionally with a solution of half an ounce of kainit, one ounce of sulphate of ammonia, half an ounce of superphos- phate, and one ounce of silicate of soda to a gallon of water. A dusting of Peruvian guano at the rate of an ounce per square yard, will also prove a good fertiliser if the foregoing formula is not convenient. When and How to Sow. — For ordinary purposes one sowing about the middle of June will suffice. Where a succession of supplies are required, make one sowing in May, a second about the middle of June, a third late in July, and a fouith the middle of August. Draw shallow drills six inches wide, and sow the seeds thinly in these ; or sow the POPULAR VEGETABLES. 217 seeds broadcast on a small patch and rake them in. Keep the soil moist in dry weather. General Culture. — When the seedlings have formed three or four leaves, transplant them the first showery day in their permanent quarters. The Moss Curled varieties should be planted a foot apart each way, and the Broad-leaved or Batavian Endive a foot apart in rows fifteen inches asunder. Where the soil is very light, it is advantageous to make shallow trenches six inches or so wide and three inches deep, in which to plant Endive. This plan enables water to be more easily applied. Where slugs are troublesome, sprinkle slaked lime or soot freely on the surface of the soil. See that the plants do not suffer from drought, and hoe the soil occasionally to keep down weeds. Blanching. — For the early crops this may be doue by drawing the leaves of the strong growing sorts up tightly and securing them by a piece of bast, or by placing a large inverted flower-pot over the smaller kinds. The drainage hole should be plugged to exclude light. Blanching should commence at the end of the first three months, and a small number only treated at a time, at intervals of three weeks. Some gardeners merely cover the Endive with a layer of rough litter or hay. Later crops may be carefully lifted on a dry day, and replanted closely in a cold frame, covering the plants with dry leaves or hay and keeping the sashes on, opening these only in fine weather. Where hay or leaves are not available cover the sashes with thick mats. Failing frames, the plants may be lifted and " heeled in " at the foot of a wall, covering them with a layer of dry leaves. Where only a limited number of plants are grown, blanch them in the open garden by placing a flat tile or slate over each plant, or place a few plants at a time in a dark cellar. Blanching takes about three weeks to a month. Exhibition Notes. — The hearts should be well blanched, crisp, tender, and fairly solid. Perfect specimens are valued at five points : two being allocated for size and stoutness, two for blanching, and one for general uniformity. 218 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Fennel. Botanical Name. — Fceniculum vulgare. Foreign Names. — French, Fenouil ; German, Fenchel'. Flemish and Dutch, Veukel ; Danish, Fenuikel ; Italian, Finoochio ; Spanish, Hinojo. Natural Order. — Umbelliferte. Native Habitat. — Southern Europe (including Britain). Duration. — Perennial. History. — We have no information as to when Fennei was first introduced into this country. It has, however, been here so long as to have become naturalised in Kent and Sussex, Pliny, the Roman naturalist, says that Fennel was cultivated in li is time (the first century of the Christian era) as a garden herb by the Piomans. Uses. — The aromatic foliage is used for flavouring fish sauces, and the seeds for flavouring liqueurs, etc. Soil. — Almost any soil will grow Fennel ; the richer the better. Culture. — Fennel may be increased by seeds or by division of the roots. If by seeds, sow them in drills an inch deep and fifteen inches apart in March, and finally thin out the seed- lings to a foot apart. If by division, lift the roots in March, divide them into portions, and replant a foot apart in rows fifteen inches asunder. The only attention needed after- wards is to keep down weeds and to remove the flower stems directly they form. A plantation will last many years. Gathering the Crop. — Gather the youngest and frjshest leaves for use as required. Popular vegetables. 219 Garlic. Botanical Name. — Allium sativum. Foreign Names. — French, Ail ordinaire ; German, Gewohnlicher Knoblauch; Dutch, Knof ; Danish, Hvidlog, Italian, Aglio ; Spanish, Ajo vulgar; Portuguese, Alho ; Hebrew, Shumiu ; Greek, Skordon ; Flemish, Look. Natural Order. — Liliacese. Native Habitat. — Southern Europe. Duration. — Perennial. History. — Garlic was known to the ancient Israelites, since the following reference to it appears in Numbers xi. 5 : " We remember . . . the leeks, and the onions, and the garlic." It is said to hive been one of the vegetable luxuries after which the Israelites lusted in the desert. Herodotus says it was used as a part of the food supplied to the labourers who were engaged in building the Egyptian pyramids. Curious to relate, while Garlic was worshipped by the Egyptians, the Greeks hated it, and used to compel their criminals to partake of it in order to purify them from crimes. The Romans gave Garlic to their labourers to strengthen them ; to their soldiers to excite courage ; and to their game cocks previous to engaging them in a fight. At the present day the Garlic is a popular article of food on the Continent. It appears to have been grown in England in the time of Queen Mary, as Tusser refers to it in his " Five Hundred Points of Good Husbandrie." Uses. — Garlic is used mainly for flavouring purposes. Owing to its pungent odour, it is, however, not so popular in England as abroad. Culture. — Garlic requires a light soil and a sunny position to do well. The soil should be made fairly rich by first forking in some well-decayed stable manure or poultry droppings. The best time to plant is late in February or 220 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. early in March. Draw drills three inches deep, and a good foot apart. In these plant the cloves six inches apart, and cover with soil. If whole bulbs are to be planted, merely press these half way into the soil, the bulbs being arranged a foot apart each way. Some gardeners place a handful of cinder ashes over each bulb, but this is not needful, unless worms are troublesome. Beyond keeping the soil free from weeds, no further culture is necessary. Lifting and Storing. — Towards the end of July, the leaves will turn yellow, then the bulbs are ready to lift. Pull them up, lay them in a sunny spot for a few days to get thoroughly dry, then tie in bunches and store in a dry place. Globe Artichoke. Botanical Name. — Cjarara Scolymus. Foreign Names. — French, Artichaut; Dutch and Flemish, Artisjok ; Danish, Artiskok ; German, Artischoke ; Italian, Carciofo ; Spanish,. Alcaehofa; Portuguese, Alcachofra. Natural Order. — Composite. Native Country. — South Europe. Duration. — Perennial. History. — The Globe Artichoke was extensively cultivated by the ancient Greeks and Roman?. According to Pliny, it was more esteemed, and commanded a higher price, than any other garden herb grown in his time. He tells us, moreover, that his countrymen were in the habit of preserving the heads in vinegar and honey, seasoned with other herbs, in order to have a supply all the year round. Furthermore, the ancients expressed the juice out of the heads before they blossomed, to use as a lotion for restoring the hair. They also ate the root soddened in water, in order to excite their thirst and enable them to imbibe wine more freely. It appears that the Globe POPULAR VEGETABLES. Artichoke was first brought Henry VIII., about 1546, and 1596. 221 of into England in the time that it was commonly grown in Uses. — Although a very delicious and wholesome vegetable, the Globe Artichoke is not so generally grown in English gardens as its merits deserve. It is very rare indeed to find plants growing in the average small garden, and yet it would well repay for the space occupied, and for the labour of culti- vation. The Globe Artichoke is chiefly grown for the sake of its fleshy flower-heads, which have to be gathered before the scales begin to open too fully. The " heads " have to be boiled The Globe Artichokk. in salt water till the inner parts are soft, then the scales are detached, dipped in melted butter, and the soft portions sucked off. Small young heads, not exceeding two inches in diameter, are sometimes pickled for future use. Another way of utilising the Artichoke, though seldom adopted in this country, is to cut down old plauts directly the "heads" are gathered, and, as soon as the young leaves are two feet high, to tie them in a close bundle to blanch. The blanched stalks are called "ohards," which are cooked like Gardoons, which see. 222 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Soil. — A deep light or saudy loam suits this plant best. On a heavy soil the plants are apt to perish in very eold, damp, winters. A heavy soil may, however, be improved by digging,, liberal manuring, and dressing with road grit, wood and cinder ashes, and vegetable refuse. In the latter case, trench the soil! three spits deep, and work the above materials freely among it during the early part of the winter. In the case of sandy soils, plenty of cow dung or peat-moss litter manure mixedi freely with the soil will suffice, adding a dressing of quick- lime in February. A sunny position is essential. Manures. — On light or sandy soils, use cow or pig manure,, or peat-moss litter manure ; and on heavy soils, horse dung,, fairly well decayed. Seaweed is also an excellent manure for this vegetable. Suitable artificial manures to use per square yard in addition are, superphosphate, one and a-half ounces ; kainit, one ounce ; and nitrate of soda, one ounce. Apply the kainit in winter when digging, the superphosphate in March, and the soda in May. Dr. Griffiths' formula is " two ounces of sul phate of ammonia and one ounce of superphosphate, to a gallon of water." Apply occasionally when the " heads " are developing. Propagation by Seeds. — We cannot recommend this method of obtaining plants, although it is by no means a difficult one. The seeds germinate most readily, but the seedling plants vary so considerably in merit that the result is disappointing. We strongly advise the reader, therefore, tc go in for suckers or offsets only, to ensure a supply of plants. Propagating by Suckers. — Long experience has taught us that this is by far the best method of propagating the Globe Artichoke. In the early part of April, lift one of the plants, and divide it into as many parts as there are shoots. It is not essential that there be roots attached ; so long as each shoot or offset has a slice of the main-root stock attached, this will be sufficient. Divest each portion of any dead or decaying foliage, and then plant the suckers singly, three feet apart, in rows four feet asunder, or in groups of three, nine inches apart, allowing a space of two feet between the groups. The rows should be four feet apart. Mulch each sucker with POPULAR VEGETABLES. 223 cinder ashes, or with decayed manure, and see that the soil is made quite firm. In the event of dry weather occurring, give plenty of water. Suckers may also be taken off the old plants in November, planted singly in six or eight-inch pots of good light mould, placed in a cold frame till April, then planted out. General Management. — In the autumn, remove all outer dead foliage, and then surround the plants with a thick layer of littery manure. Later on, if the weather be severe, a thin covering of dry litter may be put over the tops. It is not wise, however, to allow this to remain too long, conse- quently, remove it directly favourable weather supervenes. Early in April, remove the litter around the base of the plants, and also all suckers, whether required for replanting or not. Spread a dressing of rotten manure over the surface, then fork it in. See remarks also in the paragraph on Manures. Gathering the Crop. — From July onwards the "heads" will be developed sufficiently for cutting. Give the preference to those that are plump and fresh looking, and which do not show their scales protruding too much. Any likely to be too forward should be cut with a foot of stem and placed in water in a cellar till required. Duration of a Plantation. — It is advisable, if really good heads are required, to renew a plantation every second year. Certainly no plantation should be retained for longer than four years. We are of opinion that the best results are obtained by planting a row or so annually, and discarding a three-year old-one at the same time. This plan ensures a longer succession of heads. Thus the old beds come in first, the two-year-old one next, and the spring-planted late in autumn. Exhibition Notes. — The heads must be fairly round in shape, even in size, and have their scales laid in closely. From twelve to fifteen heads form a good dish, unless other- wise specified. The scales, too, must be fleshy. In judging, special prominence is given to solidity ; size, uniformity and condition, being of equal value. 224 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Good King Henry. Botanical Name. — Chenopodium Bonus-Henricus. Synonyms. — English Mercury, Goosefoot, All Good, Wild Spinach. Foreign Names. — French, Anserine Bon-Henri; Ger- man, Gemeiner Giinsefuss; Dutch and Flemish, Ganzewoet; Italian, Bono Enrico. Natural Order. — Chenopodiaceas. Native Habitat. — Europe (including Britain). Duration . — Perennial. History. — Nothing is known of the early history of this plant, except that it has for generations been grown in Lin- colnshire farmhouse gardens. Beds of it, moreover', are to be met with in old gardens in other counties. It is, or was, known under a variety of names, as the synonyms given above show. How the name of Good King Henry came to be applied is more or less a mystery. Perhaps its vigorous constitution and succulent growth suggested a sort of similarity to the adipose corporeal frame of the Merry Monarch. Uses. — Formerly it was esteemed as a substitute for spinach, but latterly its succulent shoots have become a popular substitute for Asparagus. The young shoots appear some weeks before the latter, and if they are cut off just below the surface, and tied in bundles, then cooked and served on toast with melted butter, they make a delicious dish. Culture. — Good King Henry will grow in any fairly good deep soil, in a sunny corner of the garden. Draw drills eighteen inches apart in March or April ; sow the seeds thinly, and when the seedlings are large enough to handle, thin them out to a foot apart. Beyond keeping the soil free from weeds, POPULAR VEGETABLES. 225 and liberally top-dressing with rotten manure in winter, no further cultural details will be required. A plantation will last for years. Gathering the Crop. — If to be used as Spinach, simplv remove the most tender leaves as required, and if as a sub- stitute for Asparagus, begin to cut the shoots in April, and continue to do so till June. Gourds, or Pumpkins. Botanical Names. — Cucurbita maxima (Pumpkin), and C. Pepo (Gourd). Foreign Names. — French, Courges, Potirons ; German, Speise Kiirbiss; Dutch and Flemish, Pompoen; Danish, Graskar; Italian, Zucca ; Spanish, Calabaza ; Portuguese, Gabaga. Natural Order. — Cucurbitaceae. Native Habitat. — See below. Duration. — Annual. History. — The Gourds, Pumpkins, or Squashes, are natives of warm climates, and have been in cultivation for a very long- period. The Mammoth and Turk's Cap Gourd are all forms of Cucurbita maxima. The parent species is a native of the Levant, and was first introduced into England about 1547. The Crook-neck, Orange, and Egg Gourds are varieties of Cucurbita Pepo, a native of Astrachan, and were first introduced about 1570. Apart from the fancy Gourds, which are grown for ornament only, the following are the only ones worth cultivating for edible purposes : — Mammoth Pumpkin, or Potiron of the French, roundish, very large, attaining to over a hundred pounds in weight ; Turk's Cap, roundish, with raised centre ; Egg, Apple, and Orange Gourds, small ; and the Spanish Gourd, a fiat-fruited sort. See also the Vegetable Marrow, a species of Cucurbita. I 220 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Uses. -With the exception of the Egg. Apple, and Orany Gourds, which may bo cooked in a young state, the Mammoth Pumpkin should be allowed to become quite ripe, then used for making pies or flavouring soups. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 227 Culture. — Sow the seeds singly m small pots of light soil, in a temperature of 65 to 75 deg. in April. When the seedlings appear, and have formed the third leaf, transfer them to three-inch pots, and grow to the glass. Early in Ma} r , place in a cold frame to harden off, and plant out at the end of May. Those who have no greenhouses may sow the seeds in pots, and place these close to a warm window in May, or wait till near the end of May, then sow the seeds direct in the bed. The smaller-fruited sorts may be planted at the foot of a post, fence, or trellis, or on the top of a slope, and the shoots trained upward or downward as the case may be. The larger kinds should be grown on heaps of refuse or manure covered with six inches of soil, or in beds on the flat, prepared as follows: — Dig out holes two feet deep and four feet wide, fill these with rotten manure, and put six inches of mould on the top. Plant one gourd in each bed. In dry weather, see that the plants have plenty of water. As soon as several fruits have set, remove all others if large specimens are needed. Do not pinch off the points of the shoots, but bury portions of the creeping stem here and there to cause them to root. When fruit has formed, apply weak doses of liquid manure, or guano at the rate of an ounce per gallon of water. To get Mammoth Gourds over a hundredweight, allow one fruit only to form, and feed the plant well. Gathering the Crop— Cut the ripe fruit before severe frost sets in, and hang them in a warm room to finish ripening. Hop. Botanical Name. — Humulus Lupulus. Foreign Names. — Flemish, Hop; French, Houblon German, Hopfen ; Italian Luppolo ; Spanish, Lupulo. Natural Order. — Urticaceoe. Native Habitat. — Europe (including Britain). Duration . — Perennial. i 2 228 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION History. — The Hop was jurobably unknown to the ancient Greeks, since no mention is made of it in their writings. The Romans, however, knew it well, as Pliny, their historian, mentions that they ate the young tops of the shoots as a vegetable. Although a native plant, no attempt seems to have been made to cultivate the Hop here prior to 1524, when some Dutch gardeners set the example. The practice of using hops for making beer was first adopted in Italy, and it was not till 1524 that they were so used in England. In the reign of King James I., however, the City of London petitioned Parliament to interdict the use of hops in beer as being deleterious to health, and an Act of Parliament was con- sequently passed to that effect. Here, however, we have no concern with the virtues or culture of the Hop for brewing- purposes, only as a vegetable. Uses. — The young shoots, cooked and served similarly to Asparagus, make an excellent spring vegetable. The shoots should not be more than six inches long. April and May are the best months to gather and cook the shoots. Culture. — This is a very simple business. Trench and well manure a plot of ground in any position where a summer screen of foliage is desired. Procure some roots in March, and plant these a font apart. When growth begins put some poles or something for the shoots to twine round. No shoots should be removed the first season. In autumn cut the line down, and top-dress with manure. The following spring begin to cut the shoots as required. Gathering the Crop. — Gather the shoots when six to eight inches long. Horehound. Botanical Name. — Marrubium vulgare. Foreign Names. -French, Marrube blauc ; German, An- dom ; Italian, Marrubio. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 229 Natural Order.— Labiate. Native Habitat. — Europe (Britain). Duration.— Perennial. History. — This herb grows wild throughout Europe and Northern Asia, and is said to have become naturalised in America. According to Pliny, the Koman physicians thought highly of it as a medicine, and the old herbalists in this country entertained a similarly high opinion of its virtues. Uses. — A medicinal herb, which, like Rue, may be worth growing on a small scale, for yielding shoots for making Horehound tea for relieving coughs. These and other medicinal herbs can be grown in odd corners, and as they require very little attention the cost of production is practi- cally nil. Soil. — Any soil will do, and the position may be sunny or shady. Culture. — Sow seeds in shallow drills six inches apart in April, and transplant the seedlings ten inches apart each way when large enough to handle. It may also be propagated by cutting's inserted in sandy soil in a shady place in summer. Gathering the Crop. — Gather the shoots at any time when required. Horseradish. Botanical Name. — Cochlearia Armoracia. Foreign Names. — French, Eaifort sauvage ; German, Meerettig ; Dutch, Peperwortel ; Danish, Peberrod ; Italian, Rafano ; Flemish, Kapmcienen mostaard ; Spanish, Taramago ; Portuguese, Rabao de cavalho. Natural Order.— -Cruciferse. 230 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Native Habitat. — Europe (Britain). Duration. — Perennial. History. — Although cultivated for a long period, the Horseradish does not appear to have been extensively grown in English gardens until the reign of Queen Elizabeth. The Germans grew it largely prior to that period, using the roots with vinegar as a sauce for fish. Here, and on the Contine.it, it was mainly grown for its medicinal virtues, the old physi- cians believing the roots to be an effectual cure for colds, coughs, and worms in children. Early in the last century, the cultivation of Horseradish was taken up largely by London market gardeners, who found it a profitable crop. Horseradish. Uses. — Horseradish is used nowadays as a condiment, or as a sauce for roast beef. For this purpose, the roots are scraped or grated into fine particles. Soil. — Although the Horseradish will do well in ordinary soil, and become a more or less troublesome weed if neglected, it, nevertheless, pays well to cultivate in a deeply dug sandy loam, or alluvial soil. The soil, moreover, must be moist. Culture. — To get the best results, adopt the following plan : During January and February, select young, thong°- POPULAR VEGETABLES. 231 like roots, about the size of the little finger, and from ten to sixteen inehes in length. Remove any knots or roughnesses from them with the back of a knife or wood label (this should be carefully done, so as not to injure the outer surface of the sets). Select a plot of ground in an open part of the garden, give a liberal dressing of stable manure, and dig it over one good spit deep, mark it out in beds from two and a-half to three feet wide, with a path eighteen inches wide between them, nick out the sides of the beds with the spade; this will leave a slight bank a few inches wide. Rake the surface of the beds even ; next take a straight flower stake, about the size of the middle finger, and make holes along each side of the bed, about one foot apart, in a horizontal direction, and about two or three inches beneath the surface of the bed ; then insert a set in each hole, small end downwards, and leave the other end just flush with the opening of the hole, and leave it so ; do not press the soil about it. Keep the beds free from weeds, and the surface of the soil open. The result will be splendid, clean, straight sticks, from six to eight inches in circumference, within nine months. Renew the beds annually. Lifting and Storing. — The roots may be lifted early in winter, and stored in sand till required for use. Hyssop. Botanical Name. — Hyssopus officinalis. Foreign Names. — French, Hyssope ; German, Isop ; Flemish and Dutch, Hijsoop ; Danish, Isop ; Italian, Issopo ; Spanish, Hisopo. Natural Order. — Labiatse. Native Habitat. — Southern Europe. Duration. — Evergreen shrub. 232 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. History. — Hyssop is mentioned several times in Holy writ, but experts who have thoroughly studied the flora of the Holy Land, have come to the conclusion that the Hyssop of the Scriptures is the Caper Plant (Capparis spinosa), and not the plant now under notice. The Hyssop, however, was well known to the Greeks and Romans, who used it medicinally. It appears to have been first grown in England byGerarde about 1596. Uses. — A medicinal herb used for making Hyssop tea, a specific for chest complaints ; also employed for distilling, to yield an essential oil for ordinary perfumery purposes, and for flavouring liqueurs. Soil. — Requires a light gravelly soii, and a warm, dry position. Culture. — Hyssop may be reared from seeds sown in shallow drills six inches apart in light soil, in a sunny dry border outdoors in May ; by cuttings or slips inserted in a shady border in summer ; also by division of the plant in April. Planting should be done in March or April, and the plants be placed eighteen inches apart each way. Nothing- will be needed in the way of special culture, except to keep the soil free from weeds, give an annual top-dressing of manure in autumn, and to fork this in in spring. Gathering the Crop. — For medicinal purposes gather the shoots at any season, but for distilling, when the flowers develop. Indian Corn. Botanical Name. — Zea Mays. Foreign Names. — French, Mais sucrc ; German, Mais; Dutch, Turksche tarwe; Italian, Grano turco ; Spanish, Maiz ; Portuguese, Millio. Natural Order. — Grammes;. POPULAR VEGETAELES. 23::! Indian Corn Cobs. 234 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Native Habitat. — Southern America. Duration . — Annual. History. — This is the plant which yields the well known poultry food, Maize or Indian Corn. In America and warm countries it is grown extensively for yielding ripe corn, and also for the sake of its cobs, which are cooked for human food. The first person to grow Maize for the latter purpose in Eng- land was the celebrated William Cobbett. He had resided many years in America, and therefore was well acquainted with, the cultural requirements of the Maize. Since his time Maize has been grown successfully in England, and as it is a wholesome and nutritious vegetable, it deserves to be more widely grown than it is. Uses. — In England the cobs are gathered when young, cooked and served similar to asparagus In America the ripe cobs are boiled for an hour or so, and eaten thus. The young heads may also be pickled like gherkins. Culture. — Sow the seeds in a temperature of 55 to 65 deg. in ordinary soil early in April. Transfer the seedlings to small pots, keep in heat till May, then harden off and plant out two feet apart each way in good soil, in a sunny sheltered part of the garden. Failing heat, wait till early in May, then draw drills two feet apart and two inches deep, drop the seeds at intervals of a foot and cover with soil. If the plants appear to be too crowded remove every alternate one. The plants must be well supplied with water in dry weather. Gathering the Crop. — The young heads will be ready to gather from the end of July onwards. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 235 Jerusalem Artichoke. Botanical Name. — Helianthus tuberosus. Foreign Names. — French, Topinambour : German, Erdap- fel ; Danish, Jordskokken ; Flemish, Aardpeer ; Italian, Gira- sole del Canada, Tartufoli ; Spanish, Namara ; Portuguese, Topinambor. Natural Order.— Compositae. Native Habitat. — Brazil Duration. — Perennial. History. — This vegetable belongs to the Sunflower family, and the common name is said to be a corruption of its Italian name — Girasole Articocco. It appears to have been introduced into Europe about 1617, and the first tubers grown in this country came from Rome. In 1629, a writer named Parkinson mentions that this vegetable, which at first was regarded as a dainty food for a queen, had become so plentiful and common as to be despised by ordinary folk. Forty years later, another writer, one Cole, refers to them as the " Potatoes of Canada," the French having introduced them under that name. This authority further says, "if the tubers are put into boiling water they will quickly become tender, so that, being peeled, sliced, and stewed with butter, and a little wine, they will be as pleasant as the bottom of an artichoke." The cultivation of the Jerusalem Artichoke has, however, not had much attention of late years, although, when properly cooked, the tubers form a nice winter vegetable. Uses. — In contradistinction to the Globe Artichoke pre- viously described, the tubers only of this vegetable are used as food. The tubers should be peeled and boiled till tender, then drained and covered with white sauce, and served hot. Soil. — This vegetable will grow in almost any soil, though a sandy loam is found to be the best. It is not advisable to 236 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. use much manure, as this has a tendency to induce rank growth and badly-shaped tubers. The best fertilizer to fork in before planting, is decayed vegetable refuse. Planting. — Planting may be carried out any time during the autumn, winter, and spring, when the ground is not too wet, or frozen. February, however, is a very good month for planting. This crop may occupy the same site for several years in succession without very much deteriorating, when a fresh position is not available. The best way to Jerusalem Artichoke. increase Jerusalem Artichokes, is by small entire tubers, or pieces of larger ones, but each piece must be furnished with one or more eyes, They are best planted in drills about five inches in depth, and three feet asunder ; the sets being placed fifteen inches apart in the drills. The rows ought, if possible, to run north and south, to admit the sun between them. Lifting and Storing. — When it is intended to plant Artichokes the second time on the same ground, the whole crop should be lifted and stored in a " clamp " or heap, in the POPULAR VEGETABLES. J37 same way as potatoes and licet are usually stored. The tubers are not, however, injured by frosts, so that they do not need much covering : some litter or common bracken will be sufficient. Lifting should be done with a fork, and care be taken to remove every tuber it is possible to find, for any that are allowed to remain will spring up when the growing season arrives. Should any small tubers be accidentally missed, these should be forked up as soon as they commence to grow, in spring. It is scarcely necessary to add that, even if the crop is not to be planted a second time on the same site, the old tubers must always be lifted before they again commence to grow in spring, and should on no account be allowed to stand a second year without removal. Exhibition Notes. — Only the white-skinned variety should be grown for exhibition, and the tubers for this purpose should be of medium size, and have a smooth, clear skin. The point value of a good sample is four : one point each being allocated for uniformity, smoothness, clearness, and size. Kidney or French Bean. Botanical Name. — Phaseolus vulgaris. Foreign Names. — French, Haricot; German, Bohne ; Dutch, Boon; Danish, Havebonnen ; Italian, Faginolo ; Spanish, Habichuela ; Portuguese, Feijao. Natural Order. — Leguminosse. Native Habitat. — Uncertain ; probably South America. Duration. — Annual. History. — The Kidney or French Bean is said to have been first introduced into England about 1509. Other autho- rities say the date was 1 597. There seems some doubt, too, about its native habitat. Some say it is a native of South America, others of Asia. The Kidney Bean was certainly 238 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. known to the Romans, for Pliny (23 to 79 a.d.) refers to ix under the name of Phaseoli. There is no doubt this vege- table was grown for a long time in Egypt, India, and other warm countries before finding its way into English gardens. Chicory — Cichokidm iniyeds. (fee pngc 1P2-) FOPULAR VEGETABLFS. 2TO Gerarde, writing in 1590, refers to several sorts as then being grown in England, so that the Kidney Bean has certainly been cultivated in England for at least three hundred years. The Har cot Bean of the French is the Kidney or French Bern known to English gardeners. The term kidney is derived from the shape of the seeds. There are two distinct types of Kidney Btans — the dwarf and the tall, the latter requiring to be trained to stakes like the well-known Scarlet Runner Bean (Phaseolus multiflorus). The kind known as the Butter Bean is also a variety of the Kidney Bean. Uses. — The pods in a young state, when stringed and sliced, and properly cooked, make a delicious vegetable. To insure these being of the best colour and flavour, put them straightway into boiling water with a little salt and soda, and boil quickly. The ripe seeds of the white or coloured varieties may be boiled and seived as Haricot Beans. Pods not required for present use may be preserved in salt for winter use. Soil. — The Kidney Bean requires a warm, well-drained, and moderately light soil ; cold soils do not suit this vegetable. In the latter case, it is advisable to form celery trenches early in April, and then to sow a row of Kidney Beans on the top of each ridge. If the ridges run north and south, the raised bank of soil will be thoroughly warmed by the sun, and the beans will thrive much better than when grown in the ordinary way. Kidney Btans pay for generous culture, so see that the soil is thoroughly well dug beforehand. For the earliest crops, a south border is the best position, but in all cases full expo- sure to sun is absolutely necessary. Manures. — In a very light or sandy soil, a liberal dressing of decayed peatmoss litter manure, or cow or pig dung, forked in before sowing, is essential, if good results are desired. Where the soil is of a heavy nature, fork in plenty of decayed vegetable refuse, horse dung, or road grit, or anything that will lighten and enrich the soil. It is best, where possible, to apply the manure in autumn. As to artificials, it was at one time thought quite unnecessary to apply nitrogenous manures to bean or pea crops, as these have the power to obtain, thiough the medium of their roots, nitrogenous food from the 210 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. free nitrogen of the air. However, experiments have proved that moderate dressings of nitrate of soda are decidedly helpful to legumes, and so we recommend its use here as a fertilizer for Kidney Beans. On a heavy soil, apply seven pounds of basic slag per square rod in winter. On a lighter soil, apply two pounds of superphosphate per square rod. These two manures will supply the phosphates needful. Loamy and heavy soils do not require potash, but the lighter and sandier soils do, and hence one pound of kainit may be applied per square rod in winter. When the beans are bearing freely, apply one pound of nitrate of soda per square rod. Two applications of the latter may be given. Where liquid manure is plentiful, apply this liberally to plants bearing freely. 'When to Sow. — It is the practice with some gardeners to make the first sowing in a temperature of 55 to 65 deg. early in April, gradually hardening the seedlings off, and planting them in a sunny border early in May. This plan answers in mild seasons and warm positions, but it is not to be relied upon for general application. If an early crop be desired it is safer to sow the seeds in boxes of light soil in a cold, sunny frame, early in April, and to plant out the seedlings, after full exposure to the air, in May. For general purposes the first sowing should be made outdoors at the end of April, this being followed by successional weekly or fort- nightly sowings up to the end of July. In the average small garden one sowing early in May, and a second in June, will suffice. How to Sow. — French Beans may be grown in single or double rows. Where the soil is really good and well worked sow in single rows ; otherwise, sow in double rows. If grown in single rows the latter should bo eighteen inches to two feet apart, according to the variety ; if double rows, then let the distance between each pair of double rows be thirty inches to three feet apart. On heavy soils let the drills be two inches deep ; on light ones three inches deep. Double rows should be drawn six inches apart from each other. If seeds can be relied upon drop them six to eight inches apart in POPULAR VEGETABLES. 241 the drills. If there is any doubt as to their germinating uni- formly sow three inches apart, and afterwards remove every alternate plant. When late sowings are made the seeds should be steeped for several hours in tepid water before being- sown. In dry seasons it is also advisable to cover the seeds with a mixture of decayed refuse and manure, to conserve the moisture and encourage the seedlings to germinate freely. General Culture. — When the seedlings have formed their third leaf thin them out as previously advised. Do this in showery weather. Hoe the soil occasionally to keep down weeds, and when the plants are six inches high, draw mould to each side of the rows to support the stems, and keep the roots moist in dry weather. On very light soils mulch the surface with rotten manure. During the earlier stages of their growth dust the surface of the soil occasionally with lime or soot to prevent injury by slugs. In dry weather ample supplies of water must be given. Tall French Beans. — The tall or climbing varieties, distinct from the Runner Bean dealt with further on, require slightly different treatment. The seeds, for instance, should be sown in single rows five feet asunder, or in double rows six feet asunder, the rows in each case being three inches deep, and the seeds six inches apart. As soon as the plants begin to show an inclination to climb, the rows must be staked similarly to Runner Beans. In all other respects the cultural details given for Dwarfs are applicable to tall sorts. Gathering the Crop. — The pods should be gathered whilst young and fresh, before the seeds have developed too fully, and the pod become so tough that it will not readily snap when bent. To ensure continuous bearing, make it a practice not to allow a single large one to remain on a plant. If one pod be allowed to develop its seed, the plant will cease to be fruitful. Forcing French Beans. — No vegetable is more appre- ciated than French Beans, and no other forces so readily, therefore, those who have a warm, light greenhouse, heated to 242 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. a temperature of 65 to 75 cleg., and can spare room, cannot do better than utilize it for French Beans. Eight-inch pots are the best for growing them in, and good, rich soil is necessary, also good drainage, as the plants require a plentiful supply of water when growing freely. The soil should be pressed firmly into the pots, and a good margin left for water. Level the surface, and sow the Beans thinly, covering them with an inch of soil in a semi-dry condition. Give a light position, and do not apply any water till the plants are up, or the seeds will be likely to deca} r . Maintain a temperature of 65 to 75 deg. and sprinkle the floor of the house twice daily. When the plants are up, syringe them daily with tepid water, except when the weather is cold and sunless, and water sparingly till roots are numerous, then give liquid manure or some other approved stimulant, several times a week. The temperature may be allowed to rise to 80 or 85 deg. from sun-heat, and air must be given according to the state of the weather, draught being avoided. Support the plants with spriggy sticks, and give them plenty of room, as if crowded, failure will be inevitable. Syringing must be discontinued while they are in flower, but resumed when the Beans are set ; frequent syring- ings being imperative, in order to keep red spider at bay. Red-spider is, by the by, the inveterate enemy of French Beans in pots and if once allowed to get the upper hand, the plants will become stunted, and the crop spoilt. Gather the pods directly they are large enough, as if left on the plants longer they will impoverish the latter. If not wanted imme- diately, place them in a pan containing a little water, allowing the water to cover the stem ends. Exhibition Notes. — For exhibition purposes, the plants must be grown on deeply dug, rich soil, and not less than a foot apart in the row. Mulch around each plant with decayed manure, and see that the soil is kept moist in dry weather. Give occasionally applications of manure. The pods, too, should be freely thinned out in an early stage of their growth. The pods intended for exhibition should be long, crisp, even in size and length, as straight as possible, and of a pale green colour. Any which will not snap when slightly bent, are too tough for exhibition purposes. Gather the pods as soon as POPULAR VEGETABLES. Ml they reach the proper size, and place their stalks in water, iri a cool position. The point value of good samples of French Beans, is seven : two being allocated for size and form ; two for fleshiness and crispness ; two for condition ; and one for colour. Stage the pods to the number of twenty-five on a dish or plate. Kohl-Rabi. Botanical Name. — Brassica oleracea Caulo-rapa. Synonyms. — Turnip Cabbage and Knol Kohl. Foreign Names. — French, Choux-raves ; German, Knoll- kohl ; Flemish, Raapkool ; Italian, Cavolo rapa. Natural Order. — Cruciferte. Duration. — Biennial. History. — Very little seems to be known about the early history and origin of this vegetable. Gerarde describes and figures it in bis "Herbal" (1597), but no further reference appears to it in English works till the beginning of last cen- tury, when the late Arthur Young alludes to the Kohl-rabi as a cattle-feeding plant. The Rev. John Wilson, in his " Rural Cyclopaedia," published in 1849, says, "In some j)arts of India, its swollen mass is rich, delicate, and in great request as a garden vegetable ; and in many parts of continental Europe the plant would be esteemed as a green field crop for feeding cattle." We gather from this the Kohlrabi was not grown as a garden vegetable till later in the last century. We well remember it being grown in gardens when we began practice over forty years ago. Kohl-rabi has long been grown in Germany as a vegetable. It comes in midway between a Cabbage and a Turnip, and is a form of the wild Cabbage. Uses. — The Kohl-rabi is grown for the sake of its swollen, bulb-like stein, which is cooked when young, and eaten in the same manner as a turnip. It is not a vegetable of first-clas^ excellence. 244 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Culture. — Choose a rich, open piece of ground for this crop, and sow the seeds broadcast, or in drills six inches apart in March. When the seedlings have formed their third leaf, transplant them a foot apart in rows two feet asunder. Keep the soil well hoed between to prevent the growth of weeds. Gathering the Crop. — Lift the plants when the swollen stems are the size of a Turnip. Do not allow the stems to get too large, otherwise they will be coarse and rank flavoured. Leek. Botanical Name. — Allium Porrum. Foreign Names. — French, Poireau ; German, Lauch : Dutch, Prei ; Danish, Porre ; Italian, Porro ; Spanish, Peurro ; Portuguese, Alho porro. Natural Order. — Liliaceas. Duration . — Biennial. History. — It appears that the Leek has been cultivated from the earliest times; anyway, it is frequenily referred to in ancient Writ. In Numbers si. 5, for example, the Israelites are recorded as saying, " We remember .... the cucumbers, and the melons, and the leeks." In Egypt, the Leek and barley bread were popular articles of food, the former especially being grown freely in the time of Pharaoh. Pliny, the ancient Roman naturalist, says that "the Leek was brought prominently to the notice of the Romans by the Emperor Nero, who ate it on several days in each month to clear his voice." The date of introduction into England is given as 1562, but as Tusser refers to the Leek in his " Hundred Pointes of Good Husbandrie," published in 1557 — " Now leckes are in season, for pottage ful good, And sparetli the milck cow, and purgeth the blood ; These hauing with peason, for pottage in Lent, Though spareth both otemel and bread to be spent," POPULAR VEGETABLES. 245 it is clear that it must have been commonly grown in farm- house gardens long before 1562. Gerarde, who wrote in the same century, remarks that "leckes are very common euery- where, in other countries as well as in England." Another point in favour of the theory that the Leek must have been common in this island prior to 1562, is the fact that the Welsh people have adopted it as their national emblem from the time of their patron saint, St. David, who died in 544 a.d. The Welsh custom ever since has been to wear a Leek on St. David's day, in commemo- ration of a victory over the Saxons in the sixth century. It is certain that it has been extensively grown in England, Scotland and Wales, for several centuries. The Leek is also highly esteemed by the French. Uses. — The Leek is culti- vated for its white, fleshy leaf bases, which are folded so closely over each other as to resemble a stem. The leaves issue from a cone-like base, which sometimes develops al- most into a bush, like the Onion. The consolidated leaves when blanched are de- liriously tender and nutritious, and when cooked and served as a vegetable form an appe- tising dish, Thefamous "cock- a-leekie " dish of the North, is composed of fowl and leeks stewed together, while leek soup is another favourite way of utilising this vegetable. A rJULBO-CTS-ROOTED LEEK. 246 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Soil. — A light sandy loam, enriched with well-rotted stable manure, is, in conjunction with good cultivation, capable of producing the very best results in weight and quality of crop. The ground should be deeply dug, and, as indicated, well manured, breaking the soil fine in digging ; and if desirous to obtain extra good specimens, a depth of six inches of short rich manure should be dug into trenches fifteen inches deep an 1 twelve inches wide, giving a space of eighteen inches from centre to centre between. Manures. — The Leek delights iii an abundance of well- decayed manure and vegetable refuse. Artificial manures will greatly help the development of the plants, once they get established, but no one can hope to grow fine Leeks by their aid alone. Artificial manures are best applied in a liquid form. Add one ounce each of superphosphate, kaiuit, and nitrate of soda to every gallon of water used. Commence when the plants are established, and continue at intervals of ten days or so, till blanching begins. Peruvian guano may be used instead, at the rate of an ounce per gallon of water. Sowing the Seed. — For all ordinary purposes there is no necessity to sow the seeds till early in March, or, say, at the same time as the ground can be got ready for Onions to be sown properly. One quarter of an ounce of seed should give enough plants for three small gardens, and this may be sown thinly in shallow drills drawn quite in the open, and five inches apart. If the seedlings come up in bunches — the result of careless sowing — thin out these as soon as the plants can be drawn, as it is of importance that those to be planted should grow strongly from the first. Planting. — When the leeks are about one foot high the time has arrived for transplanting. If the ground be dry give the rows a good watering, and if this is not sufficient to enable them to be drawn without greatly damaging the roots, raise them with a fork. Slightly shorten the longer leaves, as it is found that this time-honoured custom favours a quicker and stronger root action. Holes for the plants s'lould be made with a thick, blunt dibber, a,nd may be twelve POPULAR VEGETABLES. 247 inches apart each way, or the lines may be fifteen inches asunder and the holes nine inches from each other. In any case, make them not less than nine inches deep, and then drop a Leek into each. No fixing of soil about the roots, other than what can be done by means of a watering pot, will be necessary. Should very dry weather follow after planting, give a second watering three or four days later, after which keeping the ground free from weeds will be all the attention needed. The growing period may be said to extend through the greater part of the winter, as it is very certain Leeks continue to thicken all through the mild weather. It need hm'dly be added that all the buried portion of the stems is perfectly blanched, as, should they nut actually fill up the holes made with the dibber, the soil yet closes about them on the surface sufficiently to effectually exclude light. Culture for Exhibition. — Those who are anxious to win prizes with Leeks, or need extra fine stems early in th& season, should sow a pinch of seed in a pan some time in Feb- ruary or early in March. A warm greenhouse or forcing house is a suitable place for hastening germination. As the plants are raised somewhat thickly, as many as are wanted ought, when about three inches high, to be transplanted in shallow boxes of rich soil, three inches or rather more apart each way, and be still kept growing under glass or in a warm light place of some kind. For these plants trenches should be prepared as for Celery, plenty of solid manure being used ; or they can be grown even far more rapidly by planting on the level, these also having well- worked, freely-manured ground — the manure being forked into the surface rather than buried deeply. A week before it is intended to plant out the Leeks, which ought to be early in May, cut the soil in the boxes into squares, so as to have a plant in the centre of each, and the long roots cut through will then form a number of fibres, thereby rendering transplanting less of a check that it otherwise would have been. In the trenches plant single rows of plants a distance of eight inches or rather more apart, while, if they are planted on the level, arrange them nine inches apart in rows eighteen inches asunder. Give a watering to further fix the soil about the roots, and in dry 248 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. weather they ought to have water every four days or so, varying this with liquid manure. Blanching. — In order to have fine stems, blanched MoSSELBURGH LeEK. to a length somewhere about twelve inches, something must be done to cause them to lengthen out, their natural POPULAR VEGETABLES. 249 tendency being to spread their leaves and thicken rather than lengthen their stems. Those in the trenches are usually earthed up gradually, or much in the same way as celery is treated ; and by bandaging only moderately tightly with brown paper, prior to surrounding with soil, the latter is excluded from the stems, and there is then no necessity to remove some of the outer skins before they can be washed clean. Those on the level may be completely blanched by means of paper bandages, these being rather freely used, and a foot or more in depth. Blanching the stems does not inter- fere to any great extent with the growth of the plant, and feeding up at the roots should go on long after blanching has been commenced. It is only exhibitors, however, who need take all this trouble with Leeks. Exhibition Notes. — Leeks require to be very carefully handled in preparing them for exhibition. First of all, lift each plant with as many rootlets as possible, wash them quite clean, and trim off any bruised or sickly leaves. Next, puil off the outer layer of skin, wash again in cold water, and then pack in tissue paper till ready for staging. Select plants as nearly as possible alike in size and quality. The blanched stems ought not to be less than a foot in length, have a per- fectly clear white skin, without a bulb at base, and be fully eight inches in circumference. Good samples have a point value of six : two being allocated for size and length, two for condition, and two for uniformity. Thin, tapering, soft, discoloured stems are serious defects. Lettuce. Botanical Name. — Lactuca sativa. ■".■ Foreign Names. — French, Laitue cultivee ; German, Lattich ; Dutch, Latouw ; Danish, Salat ; Italian, Lattuga: Spanish, Lechuga ; Portuguese, Alface. Natural Order. — Composite. 250 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Natural Habitat. — India and Central Asia. Duration . — Annual. History. — The Lettuce appears to have been known and used as a salad vegetable for ages. Herodotus tells us that it was served to the tables of the Persian kings 500 b.o. The Emperor Augustus, moreover, is said to have been cured of some malady by freely partaking of Lettuce, and hence- forth this vegetable was cultivated extensively. The Romans ate Lettuces to clear their senses. Says Phillips, " They were anciently eaten at the conclusion of their sapper ; but in the time of Domitian, they changed this order, and served them with the first entries at their feasts." Lettuces were first cultivated in England in the reign of Queen Elizabeth (1562). Gerarde, in 1597, mentions eight sorts as being grown in England. He quaintly remarks that " Lettuce maketh a pleasant salladc, being eaten rawe with vinegar, oil, and a little salt : but if it be boiled, it is sooner digested, and nourisheth more. It is served in these daies, and in these countries, at the beginning of supper, and eaten first, before any other meate ; but, notwithstanding, it may, now and then, be eaten at both those times to the health of the bodie : for being taken before meate, it doth many times stir vp appetite ; and eaten after supper, it keepeth away drunkenness which cometh by the wine." In the second decade of the last century, the number of sorts grown had increased to thirty. Uses. — Lettuce is chiefly grown as a salad vegetable, but some use it also for stewing purposes. As a salading, there is no vegetable to equal a well grown Cabbage or Cos Lettuce. Types of Lettuces — Two types, sections, or classes of Lettuce are grown in gardens — the Cabbage or dwarf, and Cos or tall. The former section does best on the poorer and lighter soils, and the latter on the richer or heavier ones. Both require similar cultural details. Soil. — To grow crisp, tender Lettuces, the soil must not be too heavy or poverty stricken. Any medium free-working soil that has been well dug and liberally manured will suit POPULAR VEGETABLES. 251 the growth of Lettuces admirably. On light or sandy soils, a good layer of pig or cow dung should be placed below the first spit. This will provide a moisture-holding medium for the roots to take advantage of in dry weather. For early crops, warm, sunny borders are best, while for the winter crops, the soil must lie fairly dry, and the position be as sheltered as possible. Heavy soils may be improved by the addition of plenty of grit, decayed refuse, and rotten manure. Manures. — We have already indicated that Lettuces re- quire a rich soil, and this richness must take the form of a liberal application of cow, pig, or peat-moss litter manure for light and sandy soils ; and horse manure and decayed refuse Commodore Nutt Cabbage Lettuce. for those of a hea.vier character. As to artificial mauures, guano, applied at the rate of an ounce per square yard before sowing, at a similar rate a few weeks after planting, and again, a month later, will give good results. Young growing Lettuces on dry soils, and in dry weather, will be greatly benefited by an application of Ditrate of soda at the rate of an ounce per square yard. On heavier soils, and in damp weather, use a similar quantity of sulphate of ammonia instead. Where very o-ood results are required, water the plants with a solution of 252 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. half an ounce of kainit, one ounce of sulphate of ammonia, half an ounce of superphosphate, and an ounce of silicate of soda to each gallon of water. Apply to the soil, not over the plants. Liquid drainings from cow-houses or stables also make a first-rate manure for Lettuces. When to Sow. — To have a supply of Lettuce all the year round four distinct sowings at least must be made. Thus, to have it for use in early summer, seeds must be sown in shallow boxes of light soil in a temperature of 65 to 75 deg. in January or February, and the seedlings planted out in April or May. For general summer use the seeds must be sown outdoors in March, April, and May, to provide a succes- sion. For winter use sow in August and September, and again in October, in a cold frame, to provide seedlings for planting out in March. Karly Crops. — For early summer use sow the seeds in heat in January or February. Shallow boxes filled with good ordinary light mould will be suitable to rear the plants in. Directly the seedlings appear place them close to the glass, and when half-an-inch or so high, remove to a lower temperature. When an inch high carefully transplant the seedlings to a couple of inches apart in shallow boxes, or in a frame over a slight hot-bed. When rooted gradually harden the plants, and finally plant out on a south border early in April. Soot and lime must be freely strewn about the surface to keep slugs off, and at night it will be a. good plan to cover each plant with an inverted flower pot, removing it in the morning. This protection will only be needed in cold weather. Plant the seedlings ten inches apart in rows a foot asunder. Main Crops. — Sow the seeds either in very shallow drills a foot apart, or broadcast on a small bed, at the end of March, and any time in April or May. If sown in drills the seedlings must be thinned out early, otherwise really fine plants will not be obtained. The thinnings may be transplanted in a row on the Celery ridges, or between rows of Peas, or, in fact, in any spare plot in the garden. Those sown broadcast, unless on an Asparagus bed where they have room to develop, should be POPULAR VEGETABLES. 253 transplanted when a couple of inches or so high into their permanent quarters. " " , •■ -jN-; ftps- *^£ ,*jfcgE» B^^h^S •^ MMt V&ai-MlrJ J£^^ ^H •■ •« ^Km^* \ ^'^^N-^fcafcj I^H ■ -il SSL fc. : v. ' r ^S/t SSpfe < gjf^ ■&..•>■ .,..- .... .,% Magnum Boncm Cos Lettuce. 254 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Winter Crop. — Sow the seeds either in drills or broad- cast, in August or early in September. If in drills thin out the seedlings to six inches apart as soon as possible. In the case of Lettuces sown broadcast, thin these out early also. The thinning's may be planted to form another bed if desirable. A south border or sheltered plot of ground is absolutely essential for winter Lettuce. In cold districts it may be ad- visable to lift some of the plants and put them in cold frames to protect them from severe frosts. Spring Crop. — Sow in cold frames in October, thin out early, and protect from severe frost till March, then gradually expose to the air, and plant out on a warm border. General Culture. — Apart from sowing, the main points in successful Lettuce culture are to thin out early, transplant carefully in moist weather, see that the plants have plenty of water in dry weather, that the soil is kept well stirred, and the surface occasionally limed and dressed with soot to keep off slugs and snails. If allowed to grow too thickly or to suffer for want of water, the plants will soon " bolt," i.e., run to seed prematurely and the crop be spoiled. Lettuce must not be stunted or starved in its growth ; it must make a rapid, generous growth from the first, and this can only be done by the aid of a rich soil, plenty of moisture and generous feeding. Blanching. — Blanching is only necessary in the case of loose-growing sorts. Up-to date varieties are naturally close growing, and do not require to be tied. However, in case tying should be necessary, do it about ten days before the plants are required for use. Young Lettuces in Winter.— It is not generally known, perhaps, that young Lettuces grown and cut like mustard and cress, make an excellent addition to the salad bowl in winter. For this purpose, sow the seeds in shallow boxes, in a temperature of 05 to 75 deg., and when the seedlings are a couple of inches high, cut them off close to the soil, and mix them with other salaclings. POPULAR VEGETABLES. '^55 Exhibition Notes. — To grow exhibition specimens, the soil must be deeply dug and well manured. On light or sandy soils, dig out trenches a foot wide and deep, put in six inches of rotten manure, and three inches of soil on top. Along the centre of the trench plant the Lettuce, and after- wards see that the soil is kept moist. Every effort must be made to encourage a rapid, yet vigorous growth. Feed liberally. To make quite sure of getting the plants in good condition by a given date, several sowings should be made. The Cos sorts will require to be tied a fortnight or so before the show. The hearts of both Cos and Cabbage Lettuces must be well blanched, firm, crisp, and tender, and show no signs of going to seed. Good samples are worth five points : two being allocated for firmness, two for uniformity, ami one for size. In staging, take care to remove all bruised outer leaves, and to present the plants in as fresh a condition as possible. Wash the roots thoroughly clean. Three plants are usuallj staged as an exhibit. Marjoram. Botanical Names. — Origanum Onites (Pot Marjoram) • 0. Majorana (Sweet or Knotted Marjoram). Foreign Names. — Sweet Marjoram — French, Marjolaine a coquille; German, Majoran; Dutch, Marjolijn ; Italian, Maggiorana; Spanish, Mejorana; Portuguese, Manjerona. Pot Marjoram — French, Marjolaine vivace; German, Peren- nirender Englischer Majoran ; Flemish, Orego; Danish, Merian. Natural Order.— Labiatse. Native Habitat. — Pot Marjoram, Sicily; Sweet Mar- joram, Egypt. 256 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Duration. — Sweet Marjoram, annual; others, perennials. History. — The Pot Marjoram which is most general]] grown in gardens, was first introduced into this country it 1759. The Sweet or Knotted kind was introduced much earlier, about 1573. Uses. — The young leaves and shoots are used for seasoning and flavouring purposes. Soil. — Any fairly good soil, not too heavy, will suit this crop. It requires a sunny position. Culture. — The Sweet or Knotted Marjoram is most in request. This is an annual. For an early supply sow seeds in shallow boxes of light soil, in a gentle heat, at the end of March; harden off as soon as possible, and plant out early in May, eight inches apart each way. Sow also in very shallow drills eight inches apart, outdoors, in April, and thin out the seedlings to a similar distance. The Pot Marjoram is a hardy perennial kind, which may be raised from seeds in the same way, or increased by division of the roots in March, and planted a foot apart each way. This kind requires a warm position, and a dryish soil. Gathering the Crop. — Gather the young shoots as re- quired. They may be gathered when in bloom, dried, re- duced to powder, and placed in stoppered bottles for use in winter. Mint. Botanical Names. — Mentha viridis (Common, Lamb or Spearmint); Mentha Pulegium (Penny-royal); Mentha pipe- rita (Peppermint). Foreign Names. — French. Menthe verte (Mint or Spear- POPULAR VEGETABLES. 257 mint) ; Menthe pouliot (Penny-royal) ; Mentlie poivr6e (Pepper- mint). The German name for the latter is Pfeffer-munze ; and the Danish one, Pebbermynte. Natural Order. — Labiatse. Native Habitat. — Europe (Britain). Duration . — Perennial. Mint. History. — Mint seems to be a herb of ancient repute and cultivation. Ovid, the Latin poet, who lived B.C. 43-18, says, the rustics perfumed or scoured their tables with Mint before eating their suppers — ■ " They rubbed it o'er with new-gathered mint, A wholesome herb, that breathed a grateful scent." 258 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Pliny, who wrote later, also refers to Mint as being largely used by the Romans for seasoning and other purposes. In England it appears to have been grown for hundreds of years. Uses. — Two kinds are usually grown — one, the Spearmint, for using green, forced or otherwise, for culinary purposes ; and the other, the Peppermint, for making the well-known cordial — Peppermint. The Penny-royal is sometimes used for flavouring dishes, puddings, etc. Soil. — This should be rich and moist; it is of little use trying to grow Mint on dry, hungry soils. To grow it well, have the soil well dug, and liberally manured. It matters little about the aspect being a sunny one, though for Spearmint, the best results are to be obtained from plant? grown in a sunny position. Culture of Spearmint. — This, also known as Lamt Mint, is propagated by cuttings or divisions of the roots, the] last method being the simpler of the two. The former may consist of shoots dibbled into moist soil any time in summer. They will soon root, and may then be transplanted three inches apart in rows a foot asunder. To increase by division, lift the roots in March, open trenches two inches deep, and arrange the roots nine inches apart, and cover with soil The rows should be a foot apart. Each autumn, after cutting off che shoots, top- dress with well-decayed manure. Keep the beds free from weeds, and give liberal supplies of water in dry weather. The beds require to be replanted every third year. To have a supply of forced Mint, lift the roots at intervals of a month, from October to April, plant them thickly in boxes filled with light soil, place in a temperature of 55 to 65 deg. and keep moist. After forcing, the best of the roots may be replanted outdoors Two-year-old and three-year-old roots are best for forcinw. The first year after planting, a row of Radishes or Lettuce may be grown between each two rows of Mint. Another excellent way is to insert cuttings in boxes in a shady frame during summer. Mint reared thus usually forces better than lifted roots. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 259 Culture of Peppermint. — Peppermint is propagated and planted in the same way as Spearmint. In this case no shoots are removed in a young state, as the former have to be grown until they have developed their flower spikes. The plantation must be frequently hoed to keep down weeds. The crop has to be cut early in August, and a good dressing of dung given in autumn. After the second crop is cut, the plants are practically exhausted, and of no further use. The usual practice is to dig the plants in after the second crop is harvested. To maintain a constant supply, a fresh bed should, therefore, be made annually. Culture of Penny-royal. — A small patch, or one or two short rows of this, will suffice. If grown in rows, plant the roots three inches deep, and eight inches apart, in rows a foot asunder, in October or March. Renew the plantation annually. Gathering the Crop. — Spearmint may be gathered as required during summer. When the plants flower, the crop may be cut on a dry day, tied in small bunches, and hung in an airy shed till the leaves are quite brittle, when strip them ottthe stalks, rub them into a fine powder, and place in closely- stoppered bottles for winter use. Peppermint for distilling should be cut when in flower, and immediately distilled. Penny-royal should be gathered fresh as required. Mushroom. Botanical Name. — Agaricus campestris. Foreign Names. — French, Champignon comestible ; German, Essbarre Blatters shawme ; Dutch, Kampernoelic ; Italian, Fungo pratajolo ; Spanish, Seta. Natural Order. — Fungi. Native Habitat. — Europe, including Britain. r, 2 260 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. History. — Mushrooms were evidently well known to the ancient Romans, since Columella, Pliny and Virgil make allusion to them as being cultivated in gardens before the Christian era. The earliest reference we can find to Mushrooms in England is by Gerarde, who wrote in the sixteenth century. In his day. they were apparently not cultivated, but only gathered from hills and pastures. He quaintly remarks that " Many doe hunger after the earthie excrescences called mushrooms : fewe of them are good to be eaten, and most of them do suffocate and strangle the eater. Therefore, I give my simple auduice vnto those that lone such strange and newo fangled meates, to beware of licking honie among thornes, least the sweetness of the one do not counteruaile the sharpness and pricking of the other." In Philip Miller's time, early in the eighteenth century, he mentions Mushrooms as having been grown extensively by English gardeners. They were certainly grown here more largely than elsewhere, for it was not until well into the last century, that their cultivation was seriously taken up in France. For many years, Mushroom culture for market has been one of our most profitable industries, and large quantities are also grown by allotment holders and owners of small gardens. Uses. — The Mushroom makes an appetising vegetable when fried or stewed, and is very highly esteemed by most people. The larger examples also come in useful for making Ketchup. Where to Grow Mushrooms — They may be grown in ridge-shaped beds out-of-doors, in cold frames, in cellars or outhouses, in caves, under the staging of greenhouses, or on the floors of greenhouses. During autumn, winter, and early spring, a cellar where the temperature does not fall below 50 deg. will suit the growth of Mushrooms admirably. Indoor Culture. — The first and most important point is to properly prepare the manure that is to compose the bed ; and some cultivators, especially in their first attempt at Mushroom growing, are far too particular, and think that nothing but pure horse dung is suitable. This is a mistake POPULAR VEGETABLES. 261 and in fact, a bed composed of horse droppings alone, is very difficult to get into proper condition, owing to the violence of the fermentation, and the consequent liability of overheating. There is nothing better than stable manure for making a Mushroom bed, and it is only necessary to shake out just the longest of the strawy litter, leavit j as much as possible of the short straw with the manure. When a sufficient quantity has been shaken out, it should be wheeled under cover, in a cool shed, or some other such place, where it can be kept from getting wet in rainy weather, and it should be turned, or what is better, thrown out to cool, two or three times a week. It is of the greatest importance not to allow the manure to get white and dry before turning, nor too wet, as a wet bed will never produce a good crop of Mushrooms, if it produces anything at all. When the fermentation has subsided, and the material is moderately moist, and of a light- brown colour, it may be considered in good condition, and ready for making up into a bed. This will usually be from a fortnight to three weeks from the time of shaking out, accord- ing to the state of the weather. When it is very hot and dry, it takes much longer to get the manure sufficiently cool than when the weather is cooler. In making up the bed, care should be taken to tread or beat the manure thoroughly as the work proceeds, till the bed is about a foot in thickness ; this will usually be quite deep enough for inside beds, if the manure is in the right condition, and has not been left too long before making up. A thermo- meter should be inserted, and as soon as the temperature has risen and declined to 85 deg., the bed is lit to spawn. The greatest care is needed not to spawn at too high a temperature, or the vitality of the spawn will be destroyed, whilst too low a temperature will not produce the vigour necessary for an abundant crop. Great care should be taken to obtain good spawn, for if this is not good in quality the time and labour expended in the preparation of the bed will be thrown away. To make sure of this, it should always be purchased from a reliable seedsman, several of whom make a speciality of mushroom spawn. When obtained, if it is not all required, it should be stored in a cool, dry place ; on no account should it be kept where it is moist and warm, or it 262 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. will be spoilt. In spawning the bed, the cakes should be 1 broken into pieces about the size of small apples or hen's eggs, and inserted in the bed with a garden trowel about an inch below the surface, and about nine inches apart each way. After spawning, the bed should be covered about an inch deep with loam or garden soil free from manure, and which has been sifted through a half- inch sieve. The soil should always be fairly moist, and be patted down firmly with the back of a spade. Should the temperature of the bed fall below 70 deg., a covering of long stable litter ought to be placed to the depth of three or four inches. It is always desirable to keep the temperature of the bed from 70 to 75 deg. for the first three weeks after spawning by the aid of the litter. After that time it is best removed, or the spawn from the bed is apt to be drawn into the litter, beside affording a harbour for that troublesome enemy the wood-louse. If pro- perly managed, Mushrooms ought to appear in about six weeks from the time of spawning. If the soil was moist, as it should have been when placed on the bed, no water will be needed till the Mushrooms appear, and then only tepid rain water should be applied, sufficient to moisten the soil without enter- ing the manure. Plenty of atmospheric moisture is necessary ; and this may be produced by damping down the floors, walls, or other dry surfaces in the house, taking care to keep it off the bed. To obtain a continuous healthy crop of Mushrooms, a temperature of 55 to 60 deg. is essential at all times, and to keep up the supply, a second bed should be prepared to come in when the first becomes exhausted. Outdoor Culture. — This is a very good way of growing Mushrooms when a cellar, outhouse, or other structure is not available. When beds are properly made up in July and August they will give a continual supply until the spring. Tliey last longer in beds outside than when made up inside, but do not bear so freely during severe winter weather. Fresh stable manure from horses, having a fair proportion of short, strawy litter remaining in it, is the best to use. The quantity required will be according to the length of bed. One good cartload will make a bed about six or seven feet long. It POPULAR VEGETABLES. 263 is better to have two or more cartloads of manure to hold the heat for a long time ; a small quantity does not heat well, and is soon cold. Throw the manure into a tall heap as soon as received, and, as soon as the steam shows it has begun to heat, turn it over about every other day, putting the outside into the middle each time until the rank smell has entirely left it. About three turnings are generally sufficient to do this, after which it may be made up into the bed. A good size for making the bed is four feet wide at the bottom, drawing up to nearly a point at about three feet high. During the building the bed should be trodden or beaten quite firm. The finishing off is best done with the fork, while the lower part is best T4CSH Coter'0f.:-jocf Manure Corermf Siction of a Ridge Shaped Bed. trodden. If the bed be made too narrow there is not sufficient material to give a lasting heat, and it is very important the heat should last as long as possible, so that the spawn may run quickly throughout the bed. Place a thermometer in the middle, also a stick every two or three yards. In about four days the temperature will have risen to nearly 90 deg., and from six to nine days it will probably have gone down to 82 deg., when it will be ready for spawning. Each brick may be broken into nine pieces, which should be put nine inches apart in the bed. We find a trowel a good thing for making the holes ; they should be made just large enough to get the spawn in, so that it will lay quite flat with- 264 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. out any hollow under it, as a hollow underneath will some- times cause the spawn to die by the collection of steam. The spawn should be buried about an inch under the manure, which should be pressed in very firmly. When finished, cover with mats or straw to keep the temperature from going down too quickly. In a week the bed should be covered about an inch deep with garden soil, which should be rather moist, so that it can be beaten down firmly with the spade. Cover the bed with about a foot thick of very long, strawy manure, which has had all the droppings shaken out for making the bed. The Mushrooms will begin to appear in about six weeks after spawning. The straw must be taken off very carefully, or the Mushrooms will be taken off with it. It is better to pull them up than to cut them off, or the decaying stalks will destroy the younger Mushrooms. When the soil begins to dry, it should be sprinkled with tepid water. It is most important, in sweetening the manure, that it does not get too hot; if it docs, it loses its power of retaining its heat long enough to make a good bed. The manure should never become white from overheating. Further beds may be made in December and January. It is not wise to make beds in spring, as these do not come into bearing till the weather becomes too hot. Frame Culture. — Hot-beds used for growing melons or cucumbers, may be converted into profitable Mushroom beds, by adopting the following simple plan : — About the beginning of April, insert lumps of spawn nine inches apart, just beneath the surface of the bed. Keep the frame closed after the Cucumbers are cleared out, and cover the bed with dry litter. If the soil should be dry, moisten slightly with tepid water containing an ounce of salt to each gallon. In the course of six weeks or so a crop of Mushrooms will appear, and the bed will continue to bear for a long time. Lumps of spawn may be inserted in the sides of the hot-bed, and if a layer of soil, an inch thick, be put on a week or so later, and this covered with a layer of dry litter, Mushrooms may be obtained outside as well as inside the frame. General Hints. — Mushrooms maybe grown in large pots or boxes, in a warm, dark cellar. Follow the advice given POPULAR VEGETABLES. 265 generally for indoor beds. A Mushroom bed only requires water when the surface is dry, and care should be taken to give only sufficient to just moisten the surface. Use tepid water only. When the bed is in full bearing, sprinkle it occasionally with a solution of salt and water (two ounces to the gallon). Beds should begin to yield about sis weeks to two months after spawning. Spawn is sold in " bricks," sixteen of which go to the bushel. An Outdoor Mushroom Bed. Gathering the Crop. — In gathering Mushrooms the best way is to pull them up by the roots, afterwards cutting them off the required length, and filling up the holes in the bed with moist soil. Exhibition Notes. — For exhibition purposes, Mushrooms should be of medium size, round, and have deep pink or 266 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION, pinkish-brown gills. They should not be pale or black. A good sample has a point value of seven : two points each counting for solidity, uniformity, and condition ; and one for size. Each Mushroom should have an inch of stem. Stage them stem upwards on fresh green moss on a dish or plate. Mustard and Cress. Botanical Names. — Brassioa alba (Mustard) ; Lepidium sativum (Cress). Foreign Names. — Mustard — French, Moutarde blanche; German, Gelber Senf ; Dutch, Gele Mosterd : Italian, Senapa bianca ; Spanish, Mostaza blanca. Cress — French, Cresson a!euois; German, Garten-Kresse ; Dutch, Tuinkers ; Danish, Havekarse ; Italian, Agretto ; Spanish, Mastuerozo ; Portu- guese, Mastrugo. Natural Order. — Cruciferse. Native Habitat. — Cress — Persia ; Mustard — Europe. Duration. — Hardy Annuals. History. — The White Mustard was formerly only cultivated for its seeds, which yield the well-known condiment. During the last hundred years or so it has also been grown for use as a salading, in a young state. Its well-known companion, the Common Garden Cress, has been grown as a salading since 1548. Mustard and Cress are so intimately associated with each other, that we have coupled the two together in this work. Uses. — Solely as a salading to be eaten alone, or in con- junction with other salad vegetables. Culture in Winter. — In greenhouses heated with hot- water to a temperature of 45 deg. and higher, Mustard and Cress can be had all through the winter with very little trouble. Shallow boxes from two to three inches deep, or POPULAR VEGETABLES. 267 pans or saucers, should be filled with fine mould, and pressed moderately firm and level on the surface. On this sow the seeds evenly and scarcely thick enough to touch each other Mustard and Cress in Punnets. Mdstard and Cress Grown in Pan3. then gently press them into the surface a trifle, with a flat piece of board. Do not cover the seeds at all with soil, but leave them as they are. Give the latter a sprinkling with !i«8 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. lukewarm water, then cover the top of the box with a piece of board or slate, and place the boxes on the top of the hot-water pipes under the stages. Examine them daily, and as soon as the seedlings are half-an-inch high, tilt the covering a little, removing it altogether the next day. The seedlings will now assume a greenish tinge, and are ready for lifting up to the light, and in a few days, for cutting for use. Lukewarm water only should be given if the soil gets dry. Culture in Cold Frames or Rooms. — A daily supply of fresh salad may be obtained by those who have no space in the garden to spare, by sowing seeds of Mustard and Cress on the surface of the soil in shallow boxes, and placing the latter in a room or in a cold, sunny frame. The seeds should be watered directly after sowing, and the boxes covered with a piece of slate, board, or sacking, until germination takes place, and the stems are au inch high. After this, gradually expose the seedlings to the light, and as soon as the seed leaves are formed, cut for use. When one boxful has been cut, scrape olt the remains of the stalks, and sprinkle on a little fresh soil, then re-sow. By this means numbers of people grow a little fresh salad daily ; indeed, it is frequently done on board a ship, with great success. Mustard seeds germinate much more rapidly than those of Cress, hence the latter should be sown three days in advance of the former. Culture Outdoors. — The seeds may be sown in shallow drills six inches apart, or broadcast on the surface of a bed of fmely-pulverized soil. Wo prefer the latter plan. Make the surface quite fine, then sow the seeds, and press them into the mould with the back of a spade or flat board. On no account cover with soil. Give the bed a good watering, and then cover it with a mat or sack till the seeds germinate, when gradually expose to the light. Successional sowings may be made weekly, from March to September. Generally speaking, one sowing of Cress should be made to two of Mustard, as the former takes twice as long to grow as the latter. Mustard takes eight to ten days to arrive at maturity for cutting. In summer, choose a shady position for the beds. Gathering the Crop.— Cut the Mustard and Cress with POPULAR VEGETABLES. 269 a sharp knife, when the seedlings are two to three inches high, and pack each kind neatly in a small punnet. Both are best cut before the true leaves have developed very fully. Exhibition Notes. — Mustard and Cress is shown cut in punnets, and also as grown in shallow boxes or pans. In a first- class exhibition, both are best exhibited cut, and neatly placed in punnets. For exhibition, both Mustard and Cress should be cut when a couple of inches long, and before the third or true leaf forms. Nasturtium, or Indian Cress. Botanical Name. — Tropa3olum majus. Synonyms.— Tall Nasturtium (T. majus); Dwarf Nas- turtium (T. minor). Foreign Names. — Tall Nasturtium — French, Capucine grand e ; German, Kapuciner Kresse ; Dutch, Capucine-kers ; Italian, Nasturzio maggiore ; Spanish, Capuchiua grande ; Portuguese, Chagas. Dwarf Nasturtium — French, Capucine petite ; German, Kleine indianische Kresse ; Italian, Nasturzio caramindo minore ; Spanish, Capuchina pequena. Natural Order. — Geraniacese. Native Habitat. — Peru. Duration . — Annual. History. — The Dwarf species was first introduced into England in 1596, and the Tall one in 1686. The Spaniards first brought the former to Europe in 1580, and it was soon introduced into France and Flanders, and from thence into Enoland. From the first, the Tall and Dwarf kinds have been popular garden annuals. Uses. — It may seem peculiar that we should include the Nasturtium in a work devoted to vegetables. As a matter of fact, we do so because the leaves and the flowers make a 270 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. piquant and pleasant addition to the salad bowl, while the green seed pods make a most agreeable pickle. In France, both flowers and young leaves are largely used for salading, also the seed pods for pickling. Many persons use the plant for a similar purpose in England. Culture. — It is quite unnecessary to grow the Tall and Dwarf Nasturtiums specially for the above purpose. The Dwarf kind may be sown in March or April as an edging to borders, or in masses in beds as flower garden ornaments. The Tall Nasturtiums may also be grown as a climber against sunny fences or trellises for a similar' purpose. If grown specially for salading and pickling, sow the Dwarf sort only in a row by the side of the kitchen garden paths. Gathering the Crop. — rick oft' the leaves and flowers when quite young, and use then with Corn Salad, Mustard and Cress, etc., in a mixed salad. The seed pods should be gathered before they get too ripe for pickling purposes. New Zealand Spinach. Botanical Name. — Tetragonia expansa. Foreign Names — French, Tetragone cornue ; German, Neuseelandischer Spinat ; Danish, Nyseelandsk Spinat ; Dutch, Vierhouk ; Italian, Tetragona. Natural Order. — Ficoidece. Native Habitat. — New Zealand. Duration.— Annual. History. — This vegetable is said by some authorities to be found in Australia, Tasmania, Japan, and Norfolk Island, as well as New Zealand. Anyway, it was introduced into England in 1772 by the late Sir Joseph Banks on his return from accompanying the famous Captain Cook in his tour round the world. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 271 Uses. — Its fleshy leaves, when properly cooked, form an excellent substitute for ordinary Spinach in hot. dry seasons, when the latter is apt to run to seed. Culture. — In rather dry soils, and in hot seasons, when it is difficult to get a good crop of Spinach, this vegetable would be worthy of a trial. The seeds should be sown either on a hot- bed or in a shallow box of light soil in a temperature of 55 to G5 deg. in March. As soon as the seedlings can be handled, plant them singly in small pots, grow in gentle heat for a few weeks, then harden off, and plant out three to four feet apart each way about the middle of May. The position must be a sunny one. Water freely at first till the plants are well established. In the event of very dry weather, occasional waterings may be needful afterwards. The [ lants will soon spread and cover the bed. Gathering the Crop. — The young succulent shoots and leaves should be pinched off as required. Onion. Botanical Name. — Allium Cepa. Foreign Names. — French, Ognon ; German, Zwiebel ; Dutch, Uijen ; Danish, Bodlog ; Italian, Cipolla ; Spanish, Cebolla ; Portuguese, Cebola. Natural Order. — Liliaceae. Natural Habitat.— Asia. Duration — Biennial. History. —The Onion has been cultivated from time imme- morial as an article of food. It is mentioned in Numbers xi. 5, as one of the luxuries the Israelites longed for in the wilder ness. Herodotus tells us that there was an inscription in his day on the Great Pyramid, testifying to the fact that one thousand six hundred talents had been paid for Onions. Radishes- •J.TA VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. and Garlic which had been consumed by the workmen during its erection. Theophrastus wrote about the Onion 200 B.C. The Greeks and the Romans were evidently very partial to the Onion, for they obtained supplies from other countries as well as their own. Onions were grown largely in England in Queen Elizabeth's time, and Bradley, who wrote in 1718, says that it was grown more extensively in the garden than any other root. To-day, there is hardly a garden devoted to vegetables which does not contain the Onion as one of its leading crops. Uses. — In a young state, the Onion is largely used for salading — " Let Onions, atoms, lurk within the bowl, And, scarce suspected, animate the whole." — Sydney Smith. In a more mature condition, it is also used as a vegetable, boiled or roasted ; in fact, the Onion, both raw and cooked, is a very popular article of food in many ways to those who like its pungent odour. Soil. — Well, first of all as to soil. This should, if possible, be of medium texture, neither too light nor too heavy. If the latter, endeavour to lighten it by adding wood ashes, sea sand, leaf-mould, decayed vegetable refuse, or old hot-bed manure. Such soils ought, strictly speaking, to be thrown into ridges for the winter, so that air and frost may exercise their ameliorating influence upon them. In any case, add such of the above mate- rials as are available, and fork and re-fork these into the surface until a fairly good tilth is obtained. Heavy soils, too, are deficient in lime, and hence need from one to two bushels per square rod to be applied to them a week or so previous to sowing. Light soils can be rendered firmer by the addition of marl or claj r , but, as a rule, there is not so much to fear from a light as a heavy soil. Manures. — Manures suitable for Onion culture are quite as important as the choice of soils. It undoubtedly does best on a light, rich soil, and to ensure the needful richness, manure must be used either directly or indirectly. For our part, we POPULAR VEGETABLES. 273 have always preferred to grow our Onions on land previously cropped with celery, the heavy manuring, and the deep stir- ring involved in the culture of the latter suiting Onions admirably. If, however, it be necessary to manure the soil for Onions, it must be done the previous autumn, or not later than January. Cow and pig manures are best adapted for light soils, and poultry and pigeons' manure for heavier soils. Briefly, therefore, the manure question may be summed up thus : Sow the Onions on land previously cropped with celery ; Uiant Rocca Onion. failing this plan, manure well the previous autumn, or give no animul manure at all, simply sowing in the ordinary ground, and relying upon artificial manures. No one, however, must hope to get really fine Onions without the aid of plenty of humus in the soil, and this can only be supplied by a free use of well-rotted manure. The best artificials to use are kainit, applied at the rate of one pound per square rod, in winter ; superphosphate of lime at a similar rate, just before sowing, and a pound of nitrate of soda to the same area, after the 274 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. plants are thinned. Dr. Griffiths recommends the following mixture, and we can vouch for its efficacy : — Mix one pound of nitrate of soda, a quarter of a pound of guano, three ounces of kainit, and three ounces of sulphate of iron together, and divide into equal portions. Apply one half as a top-dressing when the seedlings are a few inches high, and the other half three weeks later. The foregoing quantity is for one square rod. Experiments have clearly shown that Onions require phosphates, potash, and nitrogen, and that artificials without dung do not give such good results as the two comhined. Guano is a good manure for the Onion crop, if used at the rate of a pound per square rod, after thinning. Soot, again, freely dusted over the surface in showery weather, is very beneficial. If the Onion maggot is likely to prove troublesome, mix equal quantities of soot and salt together, and apply this at the rate of about two pounds to the square yard, before the final forking of the surface takes place. The foregoing is particu- larly recommended for light or sandy soils. For those of a heavy nature lime, as previously pointed out, is preferable, applied at the rate of about one pound to the square yard. In this case, lime will not only destroy the larvre of the Onion fly, but also act as a valuable fertilizer, similar result* being obtained by the use of soot and salt on the light soils. Sowing the Seed. — Take advantage of fine days early in March to get the soil in fine tilth, by frequently digging it over with a fork, not a spade. The soil being ready, draw the drills about an inch deep, and eight inches apart. It is a grave mistake to draw the drills deeper than iust mentioned, as Onion seeds buried deep rarely germinate satisfactorily. Sow the seeds evenly and thinly — an ounce of seed is sufficient for a row two hundred and fifty feet long— then lightly draw the soil thrown out of the drills on to the seeds, by the aid of the back of a rake, rake the surface as level as possible, and further, if the soil be light and dry, run the garden roller over to consolidate it. Onions always make the finest bulbs in firm soil, so do not hesitate to use the roller, or, failing that, to tread the soil well with the feet. If the seed is to be sown broadcast, sow it thinly and evenly, then rake the surface well, to bury the seeds, finishing off with rolling or treading. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 2?S Where wood ashes are plentiful, sprinkle some of these on the seed in the drills, before covering with soil. General Culture. — Where birds are troublesome, strands of black cotton secured to sticks must be stretched across the beds, to frighten them away. As soon as the seedlings appear, use the Dutch hoe frequently between the rows to loosen the surface, and in showery weather apply guano, soot, and nitrate of soda once or twice during the summer. At the end of May and beginning of June thin the plants out to six inches apart in the row, if good bulbs are wanted, or three inches, if a Cranston's Excelsiok Ohion. heavier crop of medium-sized bulbs are preferable. Carefully examine the bed from time to time, and if any plants are dis- covered with sickly foliage, lift them roots and all, and irume diately burn them, then pour a little paraffin and water in the holes. This will ensure the speedy destruction of the Onion maggot, and save the crop, if taken in time. In very hot weather, occasional waterings may be necessary, in which case take care to give it in abundance, so that the moisture may penetrate to the roots. 276 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Autumn-Sown Onions. — These form a very important crop in some gardens, for besides producing plants to draw young for salads through the winter they furnish a supply of Onions in the following April and May, when the previous year's crop is scarce, or all over, and the spring-sown ones not ready. In sowing Onions in autumn, sufficient seed should be put in to produce plenty of Onions for drawing young, and to leave enough plants for transplanting. The ground for an Onion crop cannot be too well prepared, and this should be done by well manuring and deeply digging ; it is simply a waste of seed to attempt to grow Onions on very poor soil, or on that shaded by trees. A good dressing of soot thrown on the ground before digging will assist the plants, and help to destroy insect pests. After thoroughly digging the ground, it should be well trodden over, and then raked level before drawing the drills. Onion seed is always best sown in drills an inch deep, and one foot apart, as this allows for getting between the rows of plants to clear out weeds. Should the weather be dry at the time, it is a good plan to well water the drills before sowing, and then to give another watering after the seed is carefully raked in. At transplanting time in spring a thorough thinning should take place, to about six inches apart in the rows, and those plants that are withdrawn, if done carefully, may be transplanted the same distance apart. A small dibber is the best tool to use for planting out Onions, and care must be taken to place the plants so that the roots go down straight, pressing them in rather firmly with the dibber during the operati' n. Very little after culture is needed, besides keeping down weeds, and watering in dry weather. Exhibition Onions. — Very decent onions fit for txhi- bition may be grown in the manner already described, but if specially fine examples are needed then by all means adopt the following plan, practised with much success by our friend, Mr. George Hobday, of Romford, who is one of the most successful growers of vegetables for exhibition that we know of. His method is a laborious one, it is true, but the results vvill certain!} pay for the trouble and time involved. The POPULAR VEGETABLES. 277 site of the proposed bed has to be trenched fully 3ft. deep, the subsoil broken up, and Bin. of good stable manure placed thereou. As the trenching proceeds the upper stratum of soil has to be freely mixed with plenty of decayed manure, burnt refuse, old mortar, rotten turf, and road grit. A moderate amount of lime has also to be added as the trench- ing proceeds. This work must, of course, be done in the autumn or early winter. Early in April fork over the sur- face of the bed, and when the latter is fairly dry rak* the surface over and topdress with a half- inch layer of road sand Ailsa Craig Onion. and soot, using a 6in. potful of the latter to each bushel of sand. The bed is now ready for the reception of the plants. The seed should be sown in a heated greenhouse early in January. Fill some boxes about Sin. in depth with a com- post of two parts turfy loam, one part horse droppings, and another part of equal proportions of leaf-mould, road sand, 278 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. and old mortar rubbish. Mix thoroughly, pass through a half-inch sieve, and then place it in the boxes>. Sow the seeds thinly, cover slightly with fine soil, and place in a tempera- ture of 55 to 65 deg. As soon as the seedlings can be safely handled transplant them 3in. apart in boxes of similar com- post to that used for the seeds. Shade from bright sunshine, syringe daily, and grow near the glass. At the end of March remove the boxes to a cold frame, and gradually harden off. The third week in April carefully lift each seedling with Rousham Park Hero Onion. a good ball of soil, and plant out a foot apart in rows 15in. asunder in the bed. See that plenty of water is given in dry weather, with daily syringings morning and evening. When the bulbs begin to swell topdress the bed with rotten manure passed through an inch sieve to the depth of 2in., and once a week apply dustings of soot or artificial manure' In August the bulbs will begin to ripen, when lift them as they ripen and place on a bed of shavings in shallow boxes. During the day expose the bulbs to the sun, re- A " Rope '" of Oxions. Au old-fashioned but good way oE storing Onions. 280 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. placing them at night in a greenhouse. Continue this treat- ment until the bulbs are fully ripened. Harvesting Onions. — The Onion crop generally reaches maturity from the beginning of August onwards. About the beginning of the month, either bend over the tops by hand, or by means of a broom or rake or stick. This will check any further growth, and hasten the ripening process As soon as the tops turn yellow, pull up the bulbs and lay them facing southwards. If the weather continues fine, they may remain on the land for a week ; if wet, lay them on a gravel or asphalte path. Where the quantity is not large, place the bulbs, when lifted, on garden mats, lay these on a warm path by day, and remove under cover by night. Whichever plan be adopted, the primary aim should be to get the bulbs thoroughly ripe and dry before storing. Unripe and damp bulbs will soon decay. A week to ten days' roasting in the sunshine will thoroughly ripen the bulbs. Now as to storing. The bulbs may either be tied up in ropes a foot or so long, and suspended from the ceiling of a dry, airj' shed or loft, or spread in a thin layer on the floor of a loft or other cool place, safe from frost. It is a mistake to store them in heaps. Pickling Onions. — Onions for this purpose are easily reared in the following manner :— Choose a sunny, not over rich soil, make the surface fine, and sow the seeds broadcast in March, raking them in. If the soil be light, roll or beat it down after sowing. Beyond removing weeds, the crop will need no attention until they require lifting early in August, as small, firm bulbs are best for pickling purposes. No thinning will be required. Salad Onions. — Where young Onions are desired for winter saladings, seeds should be sown in shallow boxes filled with ordinary light soil, any time in autumn or winter, and placed in a temperature of 65 to 75 degrees. This plan will ensure a supply of delicately flavoured Onions that will add a zest to the other contents of the salad bowl. For spring use, sow seeds of the White Lisbon variety in shallow drills, nine inches apart, in August. Keep hoed occasionally to prevent POPULAR VEGETABLES. 2S1 the growth of weeds. The crop will furnish a supply of tender Onions for use throughout the spring months. Potato or Underground Onion. — This is supposed to be a variety of the ordinary Onion. It has the property of multiplying itself by offsets from the parent bulb underneath the soil, after the manner of Potatoes, hence its common name. It originally came from Egypt. The bulbs should be planted in January or February in rich soil prepared as for ordinary Onions. Plant nine inches apart, in rows fifteen inches asunder, and just bury the bulbs beneath the surface. When well advanced in growth expose them to the sun, then they will ripen and keep better. Sottom's Al Onigi,'. Tree or Egyptian Onion. — This is another peculiar variety of the common Onion. It not, only has bulbs at the roots, but also a cluster of bulblets at the summit of what would be the flower stem in the ordinary way. The basai bulblets, and the larger bulblets. formed on the stem, are usable ; the latter, indeed, being excellent for pickling purposes. Each basal bulb usually bears two to three stems, and each stem has two to three heads of bulb'ets, the lower head bearing the largest, and the top one very tiny bulblets. 282 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. The methods of culture of Tree Onions are as follows : — Root or basal bulbs may be planted in triangular groups, the bulbs being eight inches apart, and the groups eighteen inches asunder. March is the best time to plant. When the stems are a foot high, insert a three-feet stake in the centre of each group, and secure the stems to this. About July, the first head of bulblets will have formed, followed later by a second and a third one. The latter will only be of service for affording small bulblets for sowing like Onion seed the following spring. If they are not wanted, nip off the third head before it develops too fully. This will leave two heads of bulblets, one (the top one) for pickling, and the lower one for affording bulbs for ordinary use. We prefer to allow only one head to develop, thereby getting finer bulblets. Another plan is to plant the stem bulblets half an inch deep, and four inches apart in rows eight inches asunder. Do this in March, in rich soil. In due course, each bulblet will make a fairly large bulb which can be used like ordinary Onions. These bulblets will not produce bulbiferous stems, but grow just like the ordinary Onion. If a bulb so grown, be preserved till the next year, then planted, it will, however, revert to the tree or bulblet- bearing character of its parent. The bulbs and bulblet require to be stored like the ordinary Onion. Welsh Onion (Allium fistulosum). — This is a distinct species of Onion, a native of Siberia, and, at one time, grown largely in Wales, hence its name. It is a perennial species with tapering roots, hollow stems and leaves, and non-bulbous. The Welsh Onion is useful for supplying young Onions for salading in early spring. A patch or row of it, may be grown year after year in a spare corner, and the young offsets drawn as wanted throughout the spring. The most delicately- flavoured plants are obtained by sowing seeds annually, in September, and destroying the remainder of the crop when no longer required the following year. Exhibition Notes. — Onions intended for exhibition should have a perfect^ clear skin, be quite round or globular in shape, a solid bulb, and a small neck. Coarse, soft, and thick-necked bulbs should be rejected. Perfect specimens are POPULAR VEGETABLES. ■2s3 Worth seven points ; two each being- allocated for size, condition and uniformity, and one for form. The bulbs should be handled very carefully, have the roots cut off neatly, and the sterns shortened to six inches, the end being secured by a liga- White Lisbon Salad Onion. cure of fine string. Only the loose skin should be removed. Keep in a cool place. Six is the usual number of bulbs employed for a dish. 284 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Orache, or Mountain Spinach. Botanical Name. — Atriplex hortensis. Foreign Names. — French, Arroche ; German, Garten- meld e ; Dutch, Melde; Italian, Atreplice ; Spanish, Armuelle ; Portuguese, Armola". Natural Order. — Chenopodiacese. Native Habitat. — Tartary. Duration. — Annual. History. — This vegetable has been cultivated in English gardens since 1548. It does not appear to have been very generally grown here at any time. In France, however, it used to be cultivated extensively a-i a substitute for spinach. Uses. — The leaves of the Orache are gathered, cooked, and served in precisely the same way as those of the spinach. Culture. — As the value of this vegetable lies in the succu- lence of its foliage, the crop must be grown on a fairly rich soil. The seeds should be sown at intervals from March onwards, if a regular supply be needed. Draw the drills two feet apart and an inch deep, and sow the seeds thinly. When the seedlings are a few inches high, thin them out to eighteen inches apart in the rows. The plants must not be allowed to bear flower stems. Gathering the Crop. — Pick off the youngest and most succulent leaves, as required. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 285 Parsley. Botanical Name.— Carum petroselinum. Foreign Names — French, Persil ; German, Petersilie ; Dutch, Pieterselie ; Danish, Petersilje ; Italian, Prezzemolo ; Spanish, Perejil ; Portugese, Selsa. Natural Order. — Umbellifene. Native Habitat.— Sardinia. Duration. - Biennial. History. — This useful seasoning and garnishing herb may be met with in books, under, at least, three different generic names, namely, Petroselinum, Carum, and Apium. Carum is, however, the modern accepted generic appellation. It was originally introduced into Britain in 1548, and has since naturalized itself in maritime rocks in several parts of Northern and Western England. Parsley was a favourite vegetable among the ancient Greeks and Romans. Pliny tells us that there was not a sauce or salad in his time that did not contain some of this herb. In Gerarde's day (sixteenth century) Parsley appears to have been a popular herb, since he remarks that "it is delightful to the taste and agreeable to the stomacke." Parsley, too, was formerly a favourite medical herb, the seeds, roots, or leaves being regarded as specifics fur many human ills. Our forefathers always used the leaves to gar- nish their cold dishes ; mixed them with onions to diminish their strong odour and taste; and employed the leaves asasensonii g in broths. They fed their sheep with it to prevent the rot ; planted it extensively to draw hares and rabbits to feed thereon, and enable them to be more easily caught ; and even believed that a few sprigs cast into a pond containing sickly fish, would cause the latter to revive. In Cornwall, it was formerly, if not now, a custom to use Parsley largely for making " Parsley Pies." 286 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Uses. — Parsley is used for garnishing and seasoning pur- poses, and is probably in greater request than any other herb. The leaves, if dried, and rubbed into a powder, then stored in tightly corked bottles, will retain their peculiar properties for a long time, arid come in useful for seasoning soups, (fee, in winter. Soil. — Parsley requires a deep, rich, rather moist soil to ensure it doing really well. A light, sandy soil is bound to spell failure. The plants make a weakly, stunted growth, and the roots become cankered when grown on soils light in texture, and hot and dry in summer. We have grown the best Parsley on a clay bank under the shade of apple trees, but any soil of a loamy or clayey texture, that is fairly moist in summer, will give equally good results. Those who have light or sandy soils, will find it worth their while to make a special bed for Parsley culture. This can be done by forking in clay or heavy loam, and plenty of rotten cow dung. These remarks apply to the main crops grown for summer use. For a winter crop, a slightly drier and lighter soil is preferable to ensure the plants surviving damp and co'd winters. Manures. — Rank manure must not be used for Paisley growing. If the land has been well manured for a previous crop, this will suffice ; if not, then fork in some well-decayed stable dung, or old hotbed material. When the plants are well up, sprinkle soot occasionally in showery weather, along the rows. Where the crop does not grow very luxuriantly, water it with a solution of half an ounce each of sulphate of ammonia and sulphate of iron, per gallon of water. Culture. — Three sowings should be made annually. Make the first on a south border in February; the second one in the open garden, or by the side cf a path, in May ; and the third in a sheltered, partially shaded spot, in July. Draw the drills, in each case, an inch deep, and fifteen inches asunder. Sow the seeds very thinly. As soon as the seedlings can be handled, thin them out to four or six inches apart. If the ihiiTuiug be clone in showery weather, those removed may bo replanted elsewhere to form another bed. Any flower stems that form should be removed at once. Towards autumn, cut POPULAR VEGETABLES. '287 off the whole of the old leaves, to induce the plants to make fresh growth. The seeds take six to eight weeks to germinate, so plenty of patience must be exei-cised in waiting for the appearance of the plants. Winter Supply. — In October, a few of the best plants may be covered by a handlight or frame, to protect the leaves from injury by frost and damp ; or, a few plants may be lifted and planted in boxes, or in a bed in a cold frame. Another simple plan is to surround the bed, or a portion of it, with boards, place some poles or sticks across, and throw mats thereon in severe weather only. Gathering the Crop. — Pick off a few leaves only at a time from one plant. The removal of a number of leaves at once, seriously checks the plant's growth. Exhibition Notes. — Parsley is rarely exhibited for prizes, except in a collection of herbs, or as a garnishing to other vegetables shown in collections. Only the most perfect leaves should be selected for either purpose. Hamburg Parsley (Carum petroselinum fusiformis) — This is a variety of Parsley occasionally grown for the sake of its parsnip-like roots, which are cooked and eaten like the latter vegetable. Though grown on the Continent, it finds little favour in English gardens. The seed should be sown in shallow drills a foot apart, in March, in soil prepared as for Parsnips. When the seedlings are up, thin them out to nine inches apart in the row. In October, lift and store like Carrots. Parsnip. Botanical Name. — Peucedanum sativum. Foreign Names. — Freni*, Panais ; German, Pastinake, Dutch, Pastenaak ; Danish, Pastinak ; Italian, Pastinaca ; Spanish, Chirivia ; Portugese, Pastinaga. Natural Order. — Umbellifera;. 288 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Native Habitat. — Europe. (Britain). Duration. — Biennial. History. — The Parsnip, being indigenous to Britain, has probably been used as a vegetable from the earliest times. The Romans certainly held it in high esteem, for, according to Pliny, who wrote before the Christian Era, the Emperor Tiberius used to have the roots from the banks of the Rhine, for his own table. It appears that the pith or string was taken out of each root after cooking, and a sauce of honey wine served with the remainder. The Parsnip is popular in all Student Paesnii-. Roman Catholic countries, on account of its being a suitable vegetable to eat with fish in Lent. In Holland, the Parsnip is used for soup making ; in Thuringia, the juice is evaporated and eaten like honey, on bread ; in Ireland, beer used to be made from the roots ; and in England excellest wine is made from them. Uses. — The fleshy roots of the Parsnip, when cooked, form one of the most nourishing of our winter vegetables, and is more popular, perhaps, among the lower, than the higher classes. Thrifty housewives, moreover, make an excellent wine from the roots. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 289 Soil. — Parsnips will grow in almost any kind of soil, pro- vided it be deeply dug, and the seed sown early, as a long- season of growth is required. Like all vegetables of a similar growth, a sandy loam is the most preferred, as into this the long tapering root can strike deeply. In soil of a heavy, retentive nature, really good exhibition Parsnips may be grown, but a special preparation must be made. In ordinary cultivation, the ground should be deeply trenched early in the autumn or during the winter, so that the soil will have time to settle down somewhere near its natural level. Choose a Tender and Trce Parsnip. piece of ground previously occupied with Celery, or some similar crop, where the mould has been deeply moved befor6. Anything that tends to break up the soil finely to a depth of two feet is in favour of the Parsnip crop. Choose a fine day in January or early in February to fork over the soil quite one foot deep, breaking the clods thoroughly, and removing as many stones as possible, as these interfere with the downward growth of the roots. . 290 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Manures. — For Parsnip culture, fresh manure must not be used ; in fact, it is better to grow the crop on land liberally manured for a previous one. Recent manuring encourages the production of forked and ill-shapeu roots. Artificial manure may, however, be used with beneficial results. Thus, at the time of sowing, apply two and three-quarter pounds of kainit, one pound of sulphate of ammonia, and two and a-half pounds of guano per square rod, raking or forking it in prior to draw- ing the drills. Soot is an excellent fertilizer to apply as a top- dressing after thinning. Artificials should never be applied as a top-dressing, owing to the risk of causing the roots to become forked. Sowing the Seed. — By the middle of February, sow the seed thinly in drills an inch and a-half deep, and fifteen inches apart. Cover the seed with wood ashes and decayed vegetable refuse, if the natural soil is heavy in character. Where the latter is naturally favourable, this addition is not required. We have found it a considerable saving in labour to drop the seeds in twos and threes, at intervals of a foot. This plan saves time in thinning, as well as economizes the seed. In this case, the only thinning required will be to reduce the seedlings in each group to one, when it can be seen which is likely to make the best plant. General Culture. — Directly the plants are large enough to handle, thin them out to one foot apart, and keep the soil free from weeds and well stirred, as a means of conserving moisture during dry weather. Nothing more will be required until the roots are ready for use in November. Parsnips hardly seem seasonable until the autumn, although some persons will lift them earlier, and exhibit them. Lifting and Storing. — The roots keep letter in the ground where they grew than if lifted and stored ; thus, this trouble is avoided. It is surprising what a quantity of food this vegetable gives that can be taken from a small plot of ground. By the middle of March, the roots will commence to grow at the crown, and if they are required for use later than this, they should be lifted and placed in a heap behind a wall or hedge, so that they will be quite cool. Cover them with POPULAR VEGETABLES. 291 soil, ashes, or straw ; preferably the former. If lifting and storing be preferred, then follow the instructions given for storing carrots. Culture for Exhibition. — Even in the most naturally unsuitable soil, Parsnips can be well cultivated, if special means are adopted. Make holes with an iron bar three to four feet deep, and not less than six inches wide at the top. The rows should be two feet apart, and the holes eighteen inches from each other, so as to allow ample space for the foliage to grow and develop thoroughly. Fill the holes firmly with a compost of decayed vegetable refuse, roadside scrapings, old potting soil, and wood ashes, the whole being thoroughly decayed and properly mixed. As this takes place, sprinkle quicklime freely among the compost. A pinch of the special manure advised earlier in this article may be put in each hole. Into this, the roots will run freely, enabling them to come out with clear skins, free from canker and decayed parts. Three seeds should be sown in each hole, thinning the seedlings to one. The Dutch hoe should be constantly kept going during dry weather, as supplying water artificially is not practicable with this vegetable. Extreme care should be exercised in digging up the roots, for the tap root should not be broken. Carefully wash the soil from the roots with a soft cloth or sponge in cold water, the clay before the show, and wrap them carefully in soft paper ; exposure to the air injures their appearance. Exhibition Notes. — The roots intended for show must be straight, clean, evenly tapering, of good colour, and free from canker spots. The point value of good specimens is five : two being allocated for size, two for clearness of skin and smooth- ness, and one for uniformity. k 2 •292 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. j Parsnip Rooted Chervil. Botanical Name. — Chuerophyllum Bulbosum. Foreign Name. — French, Cerfeuil Tuberux. Natural Order. — Umbelliferse. Native Habitat. — S. Europe. Duration. — Biennial. History. — This vegetable is known also as the Bulbous or Turnip-rooted Chervil. We give preference to the name Parsnip-rooted, as being more fitting to the plant. It was introduced into England from France in 172G, but has never been grown here to any great extent. Uses. — The roots, which are Parsnip shaped and of medium size, with a dark grey skin and white flesh, are boiled and served with or without sauce. The flavour is sweetish, and between the chestnut and potato in flavour. Soil. — Ordinary good, well-drained sandy loam. Culture. — Sow seeds in drills half an inch deep and a foot apart, in August or September, or bury them in layers between sand in a box or pan till March, then sow. Thin out the seedlings in spring to eight inches apart. Hoe the soil occa- sionally, to keep down weeds. Lift the roots in August, and store them in sand in a cool place till required for use. Pea. Botanical Name. — Pisum Sativum. Foreign Names. — French, Pois ; German, Erbse ; Dutch, Erwt ; Danish, Havecort ; Italian, Pisello ; Spanish, (jluisante ; Portuguese, Ervilha. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 293 Natural Order. — Leguminosse. Native Habitat. — Unknown. Duration. — Annual. History. — There appears to be no definite certainty about tlie native habitat of the culinary Pea. Some consider it * < : tf ■■■ ■- k ■ — :^r 1 f %$ * y ^ 1 | Sutton's Early Giant Pea. to have been Western Asia; others, Central Europe. The present name is said to be derived from the Greek word Pisa — the name of a town where Peas grew in plenty. When first grown in England, Peas were known as Peason, then Pease, and finally, as we now know them — Peas. The}' were certainly grown by both Greeks and Romans, and are supposed to have 294 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. been introduced into England in the time of King Henry VIII., from France and Holland. Anyway, they were grown in the time of Queen Mary, since Tusser quaintly refers to them in his "Five Hundred Points of Good Husbandry" for January : — " Dig garden, stroy mallow, now may ye at ease, And set (as a daintie) thy runcival pease." In his remarks for February, he again alludes to them : — " Strike plentie of bowes, among runcival pease, To clamber thereon, and to branch at their ease." In Queen Elizabeth's time (sixteenth century) they were con- sidered "a dainty dish for ladies — they came so far, and cost so dear." The Peas here referred to were imported from Holland, so that it is probable very few were grown at that time in England. It was not until after the Restoration of King Charles II. that Peas began to be grown largely in England. Since then, they have been one of our most popular vegetables. As early as the second decade of the eighteenth century, dwarf Peas were grown on hotbeds, so as to obtain early crops. For the last hundred years Peas have steadily increased in public favour, and now there is scarcely an owner of a garden or allotment who does not pride himself on his crops of early, mid-season, or late peas. Uses. — The ordinary Garden Pea is grown for the sake of the deliciously tender seeds borne in its small or large pods. A few sorts, called Sugar Peas, are also grown for the sake of both their pods and contents, but these are not so popular in England as on the Continent. Soil. — Peas will grow with more or less success upon any ordinary, well-tilled, rich soil, but to get the best results a deep, rich, well-drained loam is essential. The soil, if very heavy, should be liberally dressed with decayed vegetable refuse, horse dung, and road grit, and trenched fully two feet deep the previous autumn. Light soils should be dug two spits deep in January, and have a thick layer of cow, pig, or peat moss litter manure placed between the first and second POPULAR VEGETABLES. 295 spit, and some well mixed with the second spit, so that the roots when they descend, will have something tangible to feed upon. Manures. — The soil cannot be too rich for growing Peas. We have already referred to the necessity for digging in animal manures. These are a sine qua non. The Pea loves plenty of decayed manure, especially in dry seasons, as the Sutton's Maincrop Marrowfat Vba. latter helps to conserve the moisture, and provide, not only a rich food supply, but a moist pabulum for the roots. Peas also repay well for the addition of phosphates and potash supplied in the form of artificials. As to nitrogen, it is well known that all members of the Pea family have the power of collecting, through the medium of their roots, a large quantity from the free nitrogen of the air. Jf the roots of peas are !96 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION sxamined, they will be found furnished with nodules or tubercles containing micro-organisms which are responsible for bhe supply of nitrogen to the plants. It is, therefore, not thought desirable to apply nitrogenous manures to any of the Pea family, although Dr. Bernard Dyer tells us that an appli- cation of nitrate of soda, while it does not affect the yield, improves the flavour of the Peas. Granted that phosphates are essential, basic slag, at the rate of seven pounds per square rod, applied in autumn or winter, when digging, would be a suitable form for a heavy soil ; and superphosphate, at the rate of two pounds per square rod, applied just before sowing, is au equally good form of phosphate for a lighter soil. On soils rich in lime, superphosphate is best in any case. Heavy soils, as a rule, contain sufficient potash, but lighter ones do not, hence an application of kainit or sulphate of potash, at the rate of one pound per square rod in autumn or winter, when digging, will be beneficial. If nitrate of soda be used, apply i+- at the same rate when the pods begin to form. Guano is a good fertiliser for Peas, and may be used instead of the above manures, at the rate of one pound per square rod. Lime is most essential, and if soils are known to be deficient in this substance, it should be forked in at the rate of three bushels per square rod in February. Soot, liquid drainings from the manure heap or stable, and even blood forked in before sowing, are beneficial manures for the Pea crop. Distances and Depths for Sowing. — The distances depend upon the natural vigour and height of the varieties grown. Dwarf sorts from one to two feet in height should be grown in drills eighteen inches to two feet apart ; medium sorts from two to four feet, three feet apart ; tall sorts, from four feet high and upwards, six to eight feet apart. The depth should be two to three inches on heavy, and two and a-half to four inches on light soils. Drills. — The usual plan is to draw these V-shaped, and to sow the seeds more or less thickly along them. When germina- tion begins, the mass of seeds become more or less heated, and decay sets in, attracting the attention of millepedes, which commence to feed upon them. The result is, the few plants that survive are weakly, and do not make satisfactory growth POPULAR VEGETABLES. 297 afterwards. There would be no objection to the V-shaped drills if the seeds were sown thinly so that they did not over- lie each other. The form of drill we always preferred and Sutton's Prince of Peas. 298 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. found the most satisfactory, was the flat one. This is drawn six inches wide and the requisite depth, and the seeds dropped along iu two parallel rows, or thinly sown on the bottom. To drop the seeds like this is, we grant, a slow business, but we argue that the ultimate result — strong, sturdy seedlings, and an economy of seed — mnre than compensates for the trouble and time involved. On the whole, then, we commend the flat drill to the grower who desires to attain the best results. Karly Peas. — Early sowings may be made in pots about the middle of January or later. Where a cold frame or peach- house can be spared, these are just the places for them. Four-inch pots are the most suitable, and about a dozen or fifteen seeds may be placed in each. No drainage should be used. Fill the pots half-full of rich soil ; on this place the seeds an even distance apart, keeping some of them as near the edge of the pots as possible. When the whole has been sown, cover with soil, by filling the pots up to the rim, then stand them where they are to remain until planting-out time, and give a gentle sprinkling with water. The plants will appear, if the weather be mild, in about three weeks, when air must be admitted on all favourable occasions, but always taking the precaution to cover at night whenever there is a sign of frost. Peas are fairly hardy, but it is to prevent a check in their growth that the precaution of covering is recommended. Mice and snails are often troublesome to peas thus sown, therefore a close watch must be kept for them. Instead of pots, two six- inch boards may be nailed together at right angles and some soil put in, the seeds and the troughs being afterwards treated as advised for pots. Sowings may also be made in the open, in January or early in February. Planting Pot-Reared Peas. — We will now deal with the Peas that are reared in small pots. In our opinion, pots are preferable to troughs for sowing the seed in, for many reasons, not the least among them being the facility with which they can be moved, should it be necessary to have to do this two or three times before being planted. When forming the rows, stretch the line across the piece of ground to be planted and take out a trench five or six inches deep. The pots should be POPULAR VEGETABLES. stood at an even distance of three inches apart along the rows. As the plants are turned out, keep the ball of earth as intact as possible and press the soil firmly round it, so that a hollow is Sutton's Masterpiece Pea. 300 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. left along the rows. The time for planting must be deter- mined according to the district and weather, but from the middle of March to the first week in April will be found a most suitable time. On no account should the plants be turned out when cold east winds are blowing, or when the nights are frosty ; better defer the work for a week or ten dajs than to run the risk of having the plants checked. When a row has been planted, small sprays of evergreens should be stuck alongside to ward off the cold winds, as it is not safe to fully expose them till about the middle of April. The tall-growing kinds should have small stakes put to them for support till the longer ones can be got ready. It is seldom that these early sowings require watering, as the soil is usually sufficiently moist to induce fresh roots. Should the sun be hot in the day-time and dry weather prevail, it may be necessary to afford one or two waterings to prevent the plants from flagging, but no more should be given than is absolutely necessary. Second-Early Peas. — Second-early varieties may bo sown in the open ground, about the first or second week in February. Second-earlies are often of as much value as the earlier sown ones, particularly if choice varieties are grown. We often get a lot of rain in the month of February, which will cause the seed to decay, unless some precaution be adopted, whereby it may be warded off the rows. If the ground be light and dry, there is no fear of this, but in low-lying places where the soil is stiff, too much moisture will be retained for the well-being of the seed, which will rot. If the ground be turned up fresh, as sowing proceeds, boards, slates, or pieces of glass may be laid over the rows, which will prevent the soil becoming soddened, but as soon as the young plants appear these must be removed. Where room can be afforded, these sowing's may also be made in pots, as previously advised, fifty pots of plants being sufficient to plant a row thirty feet long. There are many very fine long-podded varieties that may be used in these sowings, both of dwarf and tall habit. Main-Crop Peas. — We now come to the main-crop kinds, and for the most part these should be sown in March, April, and May, on ground liberally manured and deeply dug in the autumn, especially where the soil is of a light sandy The Gladstone Pea. 302 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. nature. Peas dislike a loose light soil, therefore it must be made as firm as possible previous to sowing. In hot, dry weather in the summer, these plants delight in an abundance of moisture, and as evaporation is always the greatest from soils that have been recently moved, every care should be taken to husband the moisture as much as possible in districts where the rainfall is not very great. The seed should also be sown a little deeper and more thinly than has been recom- mended for the early varieties, a pint of good seed being sufficient for one hundred feet ; in fact, if the peas are planted in the same way as beans, the results will be far more satis- factory. See remarks on "Drills," earlier in this article. Late Peas. — To have a late supply, Marrowfats may be sown early in June, or early and second-early sorts late in June. We do not recommend peas to be sown later than June, as we are convinced it is not profitable to do so. Late crops require a good deal of attention in the way of watering and mulching to ensure their yielding well. Pea Protectors. — Peas and other seeds sown in rows can be effectually protected as follows : — Obtain some laths, about one inch by three-quarters of an inch, and make stretchers, the width of the row, similar to that shown in Fig. 1, or if preferred, as Fig. 2, and fix some small nails along the top as indicated. These should be fixed along the row about five or six feet apart, and black thread or garden cotton stretched up and clown the row, giving it a twist round each nail as it is passed, similar to the sketch in Fig. 3. Soot sprinkled over your peas will keep birds and slugs off until it is washed away by the rain. General Culture. — When the seedlings are six inches high, draw the mould up to each side of the row. In the case of dwarf sorts that do not need staking, draw the mould up higher on one side than the other, to cause the plants to fall on one side later on. Directly after moulding up, stake as advised in next paragraph. On light soils and in dry weather mulch each side of the row with manure, and give liberal supplies of water occasionally. On the evenings of hot days it is a good plan to syringe the foliage ; this refreshes the plants POPULAR VEGETABLES. 303 and prevents red-spider and thrips injuring the iv.liage. The various sorts should be topped when the}' reach tho summit of the stakes. This is especially necessary in the case of late- sown peas. Here also we would point out how very desirable it is not to allow Peas to grow too thickly in the rows at first. It is far better to sow thinly, or when the seedlings are through the soil to thin them out to three inches apart in the rows. Much stronger plants will then be obtained, as well as finer pods. Fin. 3. Staking Peas.— There are several methods of doing this. Where brushwood, faggots, or "pea sticks" are to be had, as is usual in country districts, these may be used for staking peas Choose those with plenty of small branches near their bases as well as their tops, as the former are a great aid to the young Pea plants when first forming tendrils. Should the stakes be very bare at their bases, small twiggy pieces should be inserted between them to make up this deficiency. The stakes should be pointed to facilitate their easy insertion in the ground. Insert them on either side of the rows in a diagonal 304 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. manner so that they cross each other about half way up. This method affords the Pea plants plenty of material to cling to. If placed upright the centre above the row too often remains open, and affords but little aid to the Peas. Do not crowd the stakes, but place so as to afford ample clinging material for the Peas. If extra neatness be required, the row of sticks may be clipped with shears on one side and top, so as to give an even and neat appearance, as one would a quickset or privet hedge. Failing pea sticks, adopt one of the following methods : — Where sticks are expensive, or cannot be obtained, galvanized wire netting, four-inch mesh, is a good substitute Stakes about two inches square, driven in each side of the row four feet apart, will be necessary to secure the wire to, as shown in Fig. 4. the sketch Fig. 4. For Peas three feet high, wire netting two feet six inches wide will answer, as it is not necessary to fix it quite close to the ground. Netting this width, and four-inch mesh, would cost about eight shillings per roll of fifty yards. Should it not be convenient to use wire netting, large-headed nails should be fixed in the stakes, about six inches apart, and tarred twine passed along each side of the row. Peas for Exhibition. -Excellent peas fit for exhibi. tion may bo grown in the manner already described. Still POPULAR VEGETABLES. 305 if it be desired to grow peas of superlative excellence trenches should be dug out 1ft. wide and 2ft. deep. In the bottom place 6in. of rotten manure, and tread this moderately firm, then fill the trench to within 3in. of the top with a mixture of good turfy loam, rotten manure, and burnt refuse. To each bushel of this mixture add a 4in. potful of bone-meal and two ounces of superphosphate. Sow the seeds in three rows 3in. to 4in. apart each way, and cover with 3in. of compost. As soon as the plants are 6in. high stake them. When the flowers appear mulch with rotten manure, and feed occasionally with manure as advised in the paragraph on manures. Directly the pods form, and it can be seen which are likely to develop into the most perfect specimens, thin out the weakest. To get really fine pods not more than about four to each plant should be permitted to develop. The most important point to study in the culture of peas for exhibition is to give the plants plenty of room. If sown thickly the seedlings will make weakly growth, and the pods will consequently be inferior in quality and size. A success- ful amateur grower and friend of ours, who has for many years secured the premier awards for peas at the leading shows, makes a practice of growing his plants fully a foot apart in the row. It is astonishing to observe the vigour of peas so grown, and the extraordinary size attained by the pods. In face of this evidence we therefore strongly counsel exhibitors to allow a space of not less than eight inches between the plants. This rule should certainly be adopted in the case of such robust growers as Quite Content and Essex Wonder. Edible Podded or Sugar Peas. — These are seldom grown in English gardens, but they are popular in France. la this case the Peas are not shelled but cooked in their pods. They are grown in the same way as ordinary Peas, sowing the seeds in March or April in a sunny spot out of doors. There are dwarf sorts. Pea Tops. — It is not generally known that the points of shoots of Peas, when cooked and passed through a fine sieve, make, with other ingredients, an excellent pea soup. Plants for Main Crop Pea, "Quite Content.' POPULAR VEGETABLES. 301 this purpose should be grown in pots or boxes of ordinary soil, in a temperature of 65 to 75 degrees during winter, and the young shoots cut off for use when six inches long. It is diffi- cult to distinguish the flavour of young tops from green Peas when used in soup. The tops of Broad Beans, if free from black fly, and removed when the flowers have set, make an equally good dish when cooked. Forcing Peas in Pots. — The culture of Peas in pots is not nearly so general as French beans, for the reason that they ■ ■;■ ■ — ~ '■ " ~~~~ 1 ■ : (¥f\ £>> r,c.wsi. ■/:■•:.?■>'/.''?/. :.'■*&".■ 1 Improved Ringleader Pea. are not so suitable, as they require more space. If at all overcrowded, or in a darkened position, the growth cannot be satisfactory. We strongly advise all who propose to cultivate them to well consider the means at disposal before attempting the culture of Peas in pots. A deep pit with a southern exposure, which is slightly heated, either with hot-water pipes or bottom-heat by the aid of leaves and manure, will afford the necessary facilities. A cool peach-house, where the trees do not rob all the space below of light, affords also means of culture, and so does the ordinary greenhouse, if the space 308 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION, can be afforded. From three to four months are necessary to obtain a satisfactory crop. Any of the dwarf varieties are suitable for the purpose. Sow the seeds direct into the fruiting pots, which require to be larger than those used for French beans, as more time is required. Eight seeds in a ten-inch pot, or ten in one two inches larger, will suffice. Do not overcrowd the haulm ; far better err on the opposite side. The more robust the growth the finer will be the pods, and, as a natural consequence, they will contain more and superior Peas. A fairly rich soil is necessary ; two parts fibry-loam to one of half- decayed horse manure and leaves will suffice. Directly the plants are above the soil, place around the edges of the pots a few bushy pea-stakes. Carefully train the haulm about these, securing the stems to the twigs here and there. If any show a tendency to grow too tall, this may be obviated by entwining the haulm about the supports. Abundance of air, and water at the roots, as growth proceeds will be necessary, but no syringing will be needed, except perhaps once now and again a thorough washing of the haulm will help to keep the plants clean and healthy. Dryness at the roots will produce mildew ; this must be rigidly avoided, as mildew is a great source of failure in Pea culture. Weak liquid-manure after the pods are formed will be an advantage. Gathering the Crop. — Peas are ready to gather when the pods are fairly full and green. The fullest pods should be gathered daily, then the resources of the plants will be con- centrated on the development of the younger ones. If pods are allowed to remain until fully developed and begin to turn pale in colour, this will retard the progress of the younger pods. Always gather just before required for cooking. Exhibition Notes. — Pods for exhibition must be specially selected, taking care that they are well filled, of even size, and not too old. They should be gathered early in the morning when the dew is on them, and kept in the dark until set up on the exhibition table. There is a great art in staging, for though the peas are actually no better, they present a much more taking appearance if all the stalks are cut the same length and laid the same way on a dish. Twenty-four pods are the POPULAR VEGETABLES. 309 number usually exhibited, and when these are put on a plate a few Pea leaves should be placed on first, so that the tendrils hang over the edge ; the pods should then be placed with all the stalks towards the centre. Judges can then see at a glance the whole of the number without turning them over, as they are compelled to do if heaped up one on the top of the other. If possible, choose the deep-green varieties for exhibi- tion, as these usually find most favour with the judges, and those having blunt ends rather than pointed ones, as the former have the seeds nearest the tips. The Peas, too, should be quite fresh, of good colour, quality, and flavour. In packing always use a rhubarb or cabbage leaf, and do not place the pods o»i top of each other, but have only one layer, so that the bloom does not get removed. First-rate samples have a point value of seven : three for condition and quality, two for size of pod, and two for fulness of pod. Potato. Botanical Name. — Solatium tuberosum. Foreign Names. — French, Pomme de terre ; German, Kartoffel ; Flemish and Dutch, Aardame ; Danish, Jorde- peeren ; Italian, Patata ; Spanish and Portuguese, Patatas ; South American, Papa. Natural Order. — Solanacese. Native Habitat. — South America. Duration. — Perennial. y History. — The Potato was first introduced into Europe by the Spaniards, and grown by them in Spain. It appears to have found its way from there into Italy, where it was exten- sively cultivated, and thence to Vienna. Its introduction into England is said to be due to Sir Walter P>,aleigh. In 1584, the latter, under a patent granted him by Queen Bess, sent out H number of colonists to Virginia, and the ships which 310 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. conveyed these thither, on their return the following year, brought home some Potato tubers. Whether these were planted in England is doubtful, but history tells us that Sir Walter planted the first tubers on his estate at Youghal, in Ireland. The Irish took up Potato culture in earnest, and the tubers were largely used as an article of food long before they were appreciated here. Another legend says that the first tubers which were introduced into England were washed ashore near North Meoll, in Lancashire, from a wreckage. Gerarde, the old herbalist, gives an illustration of the Potato in his "Herbal," published in 1597, and describes the tubers as delicacies for the confectioneer, and not as common food. In the reign of James I. the Potato was regarded as a great delicacy. The quantity available in 1619 appears to have Vicar of Laleham Potato. been very small, tubers fetching one shilling per pound. In 1662-3 the Eoyal Society urged its members to plant Potatoes, to provide the masses with food in case of famine. Early in 1718 according to a writer named Bradley, the Potato was not considered of much importance. The first account we have ot the noble tuber having been grown exlensively for market appears in the writings of the late Arthur Young, the agri- cultural writer and traveller. He says that in 1807 a farmer named Pittman, of Barking, in Essex, grew three hundred acres, and sent to market, washed ready for sale, no less than three thousand tons. Mr. Pittman was reputed to be the largest grower in the Kingdom. The Potato was not intro- duced into Scotland before 1725. The first person to plant POPULAR VEGETABLES. 31 1 Potatoes in the field in Scotland was Thomas Prentice, a day labourer. So great was the success of his experiment that every farmer and cottager promptly followed his example. Such is a resume of the early history of what may justly be described as the king of vegetables. Its history during the latter part of the last century to the present time needs no The Celebrated Eldorado Potato. description, since it is well known. Practically scorned and regarded as a vegetable of little importance a century ago, to- day its latest varieties are appraised at a value almost equal to their weight in gold. Uses. — The uses to which the noble tuber may be put as human food are too well known to need a detailed description 312 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. here. A French savant, named Mons. Parmentier, gave a banquet at the end of the eighteenth century to celebrated men of the day, including Benjamin Franklin, at which every dish consisted of Potatoes cooked and dressed in a variety oi ways. It is also said that even the liqueurs drunk on this occasion were prepared from the Potato. His idea in carry- ing out so novel a project was to familiarise the world with the great utility of the Potato Apart from its use in a cooked state for food, the Potato yields a spirit or coarse kind of brandy, also a substance called dextrine, which is a form of gum and starch. At one time the pulp, after the starch was extracted, was dried to a horn-like substance, and converted into snuff-boxes. / Soil. — The best soils for Potato culture are those of a loamy, calcareous, or sandy nature, and the worst, heavy clays or peat. Even old garden soils, though rich and well managed, are not always suitable, since the}' are apt to com- municate disease or scab to the crop. Still, no one need be deterred from growing Potatoes because the soil is not qf_ an ideal character. Heavy, damp soils, for example, may be greatly improved by deep digging in autumn, adding plenty of road grit and decayed refuse, also lime in February, and peat and old garden soils put in good condition by the liberal use of lime. For early and second-early crops, the soil mast not be too heavy or too damp ; but for the latter ones it is not necessary to be quite so particular. To sum up : heavy soils should be trenched or ridged in autumn, and the surface left rough all the winter. This will put them in good heart. / Manures. — With many it is the practice to rely upon animal mauures solely, and, in many cases, to spread these along the drills at the time of planting. Well, animal manures contain a fair proportion of everything the Potato requires, and if U3ed judiciously good results will be obtained. An excess of animal manures is apt to cause rank growth, and to predispose the crop to disease. Then it is quite wrong to apply the manure to the drills, and to plant the sets on top. It should be applied the previous autumn or early winter, so as to be well mixed with the soil before planting. In using animal manures, bear in mind that horse manure is POPULAR VEGETABLES. 313 best for heavy soils, and cow, pig, or peat moss litter for the lighter ones. Horse dung lightens and warms heavy soils and cow and pig manure binds the lighter ones together, makes them more retentive of moisture, and better able to sustain the crop in dry seasons. One good load of decayed manure, or two of fresh, is sufficient for ten square rods of land As to artificials, experiments have clearly demonstrated that the Potato yield is greatly facilitated by the use of phosphates, potash, and a small amount of nitrogen. Thus, on soils con- Satisfaction Potato. taining lime one to two pounds of superphosphate per square rod, and on those containing no lime, basic slag, at the rate of seven pounds per square rod, are good phosphatic manures to use in conjunction with animal dung. The basic slag should be applied in autumn or early winter; the superphosphate at the same time or before planting. On heavy soils potash is not considered essential, but on all others two pounds of kainit or one pound of sulphate of potash per square rod will be beneficial. Apply the kainit in autumn, and the sulphate at 314 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. planting time. Then as to nitrogenous manures — these ought not to be used if the crop is growing freely, as they may tend to promote over-luxuriance of growth. If not making robust growth, apply one pound of sulphate of ammonia per square rod in the case of a heavj 7 , damp soil ; or one pound of nitrate of soda in the case of a light, dry one. Both should be applied late in spring. Dr. Griffiths strongly recommends the following formula : — Three and a-half pounds of kainit ; one pound of iron sulphate ; seven pounds of superphosphate. Mix together, and apply to one square rod, when the shoots appear. The grower need not use the foregoing manures exclusively. There are special Potato manures on the market which will serve a similar purpose, if more convenient. Moreover, guano is a good Potato manure, and may be applied at the rate of one to two pounds per square rod when the shoots appear. Fish guano, too, is good, but this should be sprinkled along the drills, at the rate of a handful per lineal yard at planting time. Those who can command plenty of wood ashes, road trimmings, soot, and decayed refuse, and use this liberally in conjunction with animal manures, may grow fair crops without artificials. Propagation by Seeds. — This method is only applicable where seeds have been obtained as the result of special crosses, with a view to rearing new varieties. Sow the seeds in light soil, in a temperature of 55 to 65 degrees, in February. When the seedling's appear, plant them separately in small pots and grow in heat for a few weeks, then remove to a cold frame, gradually harden oft', and plant out in good soil in the open early in May. When a few inches high, earth up. As soon as the foliage turns yellow, lift the small tubers, store them away till the following April, then plant out. They will be fit to eat the second season, but it may be four to five years before the merits or demerits of the variety can be definitely ascertained. Propagation by Cuttings. — This is an old method, but it has come into fashion lately, owing to the advent of the high- priced varieties, and the desire to make as many plants as possible from a tuber, It is a plan which should only be POPULAR VEGETABLES. 815 adopted in the case of new or rare sorts. There is no difficulty in propagating ; yet a few important points require considera- tion. The tubers may be laid out singly and exposed to the light and air, as early as convenient, and at any time in February they may be put into a warm house. A temperature of from 55 degrees to 65 degrees will be quite warm enough to promote growth. We have found them do well when laid out on a border in a vinery or peach-house that British Queen Potato. was shut up for starting. We have seen the tubers covered with light soil ; but they are better laid on the ground, as when covered they make roots too freely. The Shoots (Fig. 4) should be taken off when they are about two and a-half inches long. It is a mistake to take them too soon. Potted singly, in three-inch or four-inch pots (Fig. 5) they will soon make a new start, and should be removed to a cooler house or a pit, 316 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. before they begin to draw up. It should be added that the shoots must be taken oft' quite close to the tubers ; this ensures a greater number of roots starting from the stem, and may make some difference in the number of tubers that will be pro- duced from the roots. The stock tubers will soon start again, and a good many cuttings may be had from each one before planting time. A great point is to avoid getting the shoots drawn up weakly, so, if there is any sign of this, they may be removed to a cooler position or to where they can get more light. After they are potted they require a little care in watering, as the roots must be kept perfectly healthy. Those started early may require larger pots. Propagation by Eyes. — Fig. 1 is a good and suitable set for any purpose. It has been properly treated during the winter by being exposed to light and air. It has also been kept from sprouting too early. February is quite soon enough for seed Potatoes to begin to sprout, unless required for forcing. About the beginning of February the boxes containing the sets — for they should have been placed in boxes at the time of lifting — should be placed in a light and somewhat warm house or room, where they will soon begin to sprout, and when the sprouts (Fig. 1a) are three quarters of an inch in length, each shoot should be taken out as shown at Figs. 2 and 3, and be potted as at Fig. 6. Use finely sifted soil, but before these eyes are potted the cut parts should have been allowed to dry for a few hours, in order to prevent decay. If, however, the eyes are potted as soon as cut out, dip the cut parts in powdered charcoal and lime, this will do something towards preventing decay. These eyes will soon form roots, and form sturdy plants, filling the little pots with roots, when they should be transferred to larger sizes, using good soil. The pots should be placed in a greenhouse or wann frame near the glass, and the soil be carefully watered. livery endeavour should be made to keep the plants sturdy. Do not allow them to become drawn and weakly. As soon as danger of severe frost is over for the season, they should be placed in cool frames and kept near the glass, but the lights must be covered securely against frost. Air must be given freely when the weather is favourable, and also on warm POPULAR VEGETABLES. 317 nights to cause a sturdy growth. Watering must be very care- fully attended to, using tepid water for the purpose. How to Propagate the Potato. Seed Tubers or Sets. — To get good crops of Potatoes, it is not only necessary to have good soil and use the right kind of manures, but also to exercise great care in the selection and preparation of the tubers intended for planting. Those who pay no attention to the selection of the right size of tubers, the method of storing them in winter, or their proper preparation in early spring, must expect to meet with failures. It is a far too general practice to store seed Potatoes in a heap, 318 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. and let them remain thus till wanted for planting. By that time, long white shoots, two to four inches long, have formed on the tubers, and these are rubbed off, thus weakening the future growth. The proper course to pursue is to select tubers for seed purposes when lifting the crop. Choose those weighing three to four ounces each, and pack them at once with their crown or broad end upwards in shallow boxes. Place the latter in any light, frost-proof room or shed, and let them remain till a few weeks before planting, when remove to a light cool green- house. This treatment will retard the growth of the eyes, pre- vent less of food stored in the tubers, and enable the latter to Mode of Sprouting Seed Potatoes. yield a much finer crop than is possible when stored in a heap or spread out on a floor in a dark or semi dark place. When fully exposed to the light in early spring, only the upper two or three shoots will develop, and these will be of a sturdy nature and deep green hue, capable of making vigorous shoots, and bearing exceptionally fine tubers. It is a wise plan to allow not more than three shoots to form — two are better. If any others form remove them with the point of a penknife. We have already mentioned the size of tubers to be used as sets. Experience shows that it is better to choose a moderate sized tuber than a smaller or larger one. The smaller tubers make weak shoots and bear a correspondingly weak crop. The largest size would give excellent results, bnt as these can be POPULAR VEGETABLES. 319 turned to more profitable account for eating, it would be wasteful to use them for sets. Tubers weighing three to four ounces, contain sufficient reserve food to supply the two or three shoots with ample nourishment till they are able to cater for themselves, and the resultant crop is consequently most satisfactory. We do not advise the sets to be cut into two or three portions as is sometimes clone, unless the tubers weigh more than four Snowdkop -Potato. ounces. It is much better to plant the latter whole. In cases, however, where large tubers only are available, it is a good plan to cut oft' the crown end of the tubors for sets, and to use the lower portion for cooking purposes. We advise thus, because the strongest eyes or shoots always develop from the crown end of the tuber, and the weaker ones from the lower or narrow end. /'Distances for Planting, &c. — For the earliest sorts 'with dwarf haulm, the distance between the rows should be fifteen to twenty inches. For later sorts, two to three feet, or 320 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. two feet six inches, would be a suitable width. It is difficult to lay down any precise rule, as varieties differ greatly in height and via'our. Generally speaking, the distance is governed by the height of the haulm. Thus a two feet variety should have its rows that distance asunder, and so on. Then as to the depth of the drills. In no case should they be deeper than six inches. On heavy soils four to five inches is a suitable depth, and on light ones six inches. We have next to deal with the distances for planting the sets. Here, again, the vigour of the variety must be taken into consideration. Most early sorts may be planted six to eight inches apart ; medium growers, nine to twelve inches ; and strong growers, twelve to sixteen inches asunder. We are decidedly of opinion that it is unwise to crowd the plants too closely- Sets planted a foot apart will certainly yield finer produce than those planted six inches apart. The rows should run from north to south. 4 When to Plant. — Early sorts may be planted in warm borders from the beginning to the end of February. Second earlies should be planted in March ; main crops, the end of March and early part of April ; and late crops from the middle to the end of April. How to Plant. — In the case of those reared from cuttings or eyes they may be planted out as soon as the weather permits; and by covering them with inverted pots if the nights are cold, or there is any sign of frost, they may be put out earlier than would otherwise be safe. This is better than keeping them too long in the pots, for if once they get a little stunted, they will not make a fresh start readily. In planting- out, the roots may be loosened a little, and if a little, soil, with which may be mixed some soot, is put round them, they will soon get a good start, and there will be plenty of time to pro- duce mature tubers equal to the finest that could be obtained from planting whole seed potatoes in the ordinary way. As regards planting the ordinary tubers, choose fine weather for this operation. In the drills for the early sorts spread an inch or so of a mixture of deca} T ed vegetable matter, wood ashes, old hotbed manure, and soot. Arrange the tubers on this, then cover each tuber with a handful or so of the same POPULAR VEGETABLES. 321 compost, and finally add the mould. For the remaining crops the drills may be drawn first and planted; or they may lie formed, one at a time, by means of the line and spade, then planted, another strip dug, a drill formed, and so on, till the plot is finished. The latter is the better plan of the two, as it avoids trampling the soil, and leaves the surface in a better condition for the growth of the crop. The sets should be planted — not flat, as is often done — but with the crown end upwards. Where the soil is very heavy it will be a good plan to cover each set with compost, as advised for the early crop. Some growers dibble the sets in, but wa Evercood Potato. disapprove of it. This method does not ensure the tubers being planted an even depth, and, moreover, it tramples the soil too much. General Culture. — The earliest crops may, in the event of spring frosts, need protecting by a covering of dry straw at night, or placing branches of evergreens over the young tops. As soon as the shoots (" shaws ") are a few inches high, use the hoe or prong freely between the rows to destroy weeds, and aerate the soil. When the shoots are six inches high, draw the earth well up on each side of the row. 322 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Lifting Potatoes. — The proper time to lift the crop is when the foliage begins to turn yellow. In digging potatoes, there are right and wrong methods. The wrong way is to scatter the tubers and tops all over the ground as they are earthed up, and thus cause a deal of labour in collecting, as well as trampling upon the potatoes, burying some again in the soil, and making it difficult to clear the ground effectually of Potato tops and weeds. The right way is to place the fork well behind the roots, raise the whole mass of soil and tubers, throw them slightly forward (which operation usually exposes to view all the Potatoes), and separate the tubers from the soil and the tops. As the Potatoes are picked up from each root, they ought to be placed in broad rows, and the tops and weeds thrown together similarly, then the Potatoes are easily collected without injury, and the tops and rubbish gathered up and conveyed away as they ought to lie. Storing Potatoes.— The cooking-sized Potatoes should first be collected from those on the ground, and great care ought to be taken to avoid saving any that may have disease about them. Reject all doubtful ones, and let the pigs have them. Place the Potatoes in a quite frost-proof shed, room, or dry cellar, in as dry a condition as possible. If "pies," Fig. 1. How to Store Potatoes. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 323 " clamps," or " buries " have to be used, do not dig a large hole, but place the Potatoes (A. Fig. 1) in a conical heap on the level ground, cover them with clean straw (B. Fig. 1) and other dry litter, and then place a layer of soil over this (C. Fig. 1) in the usual way, by digging a trench (E. Fig. 1) all round the heap, the inside of the trench to be eighteen inches away from the outside of the litter covering. By these means the Potatoes are always " high and dry/' no matter how much rain may fall. Previous to finally covering with earth, and about a fortnight after being stored, the Potatoes should receive a careful sorting, for the purpose of finding any diseased ones that escaped detection at the first inspection. Tubers intended for seed, should be thoroughly dried by exposure to Lim Gray Potato. sun and light. Those for eating purposes, must not be exposed too long, to become green ; otherwise, the skins will develop an active poison, and be injurious to eat. Potatoes in Frames. — Early or "new" Potatoes can be bought very cheaply nowadays, but they are seldom so good in quality as those home-grown. Not many amateur gardeners can afford to devote a frame or pit to their culture, but those who can and are anxious to force a few Potatoes, should commence operations in January or February. A gentle bottom-heat, such as would be afforded by a bed of leaves and stable manure mixed, and from three to four feet in depth ; or, m 2 324 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. failing leaves, a shallower bed of well-prepared stable manure, is needed. On this plaee a layer of short manure, finishing off with not less than nine inches of light, loamy soil, and then put on the lights. Directly it is seen there is no likelihood of over-heating, open drills five inches deep and fifteen inches apart (this being best done with the hand), and plant moderately strong tubers, each furnished with one stout sprout six inches apart ; then carefully level over. If early radish seeds are very thinly sown broadcast over the bed, these may give a few bunches of tender roots before the Potato haulm wants all the room. Keep rather close at the outset, but when the haulm is showing, ventilate more freely, and admit all the sunshine and light possible. A few dishes of early Potatoes might be had with the assistance of mild hot- beds and rough frames only, the protection being afforded by mats, canvas, old carpets, or thatched hurdles. Potatoes in Pots. — Those who have not the convenience for making hotbeds may secure a few good dishes of early Potatoes by growing them in pots. An early peach-house or vinery, or any light house where a gentle warmth can be main- tained, will grow them well, providing they can have a light position and a liberal supply of air. Ten or twelve-inch pots may be employed, and ample drainage is imperative, as sjddencd soil soon turns the growth sickly. Half fill the pots with good loamy soil, enriched with old mushroom-bed manure and a little approved artificial fertilizer, avoiding rich animal manure, as it invariably induces a rank, unproductive growth. Mix them well, and make the soil firm in the pots. A couple of tubers in a ten-inch, and three in a twelve-inch pot will bo sufficient. Medium-sized ones are best ; they should be covered with three inches of soil, and the pots stood on a shelf tolerably close to the glass. Keep the soil rather dry till growth appears, when it must receive a gentle watering with tepid water, but at no time allow it to become very wet. As growth proceeds fill up the vacant space in the pots with soil, making it firm, and support the haulm with spriggy sticks. Give weak liquid manure, and lightly syringe the plant in the afternoon on fini days; also give abundance of air daily, a stuffy atmosphere producing weak, elongated growth and small POPULAR VEGETABLES. 325 tubers. When the foliage commences to turn yellow, gradually withhold water from the roots, and increase the supply of air. Potatoes for Exhibition. — Potatoes for this pur- pose should, if possible, be grown on land previously cropped with peas or celery. Such land will not need to be specially manured for the potato crop. In any case it is not wise to apply stable manure to soil specially for the potato crop, as its presence is likely to introduce disease to the tubers. It would really be better to use one of the formulas of arti- Sir John Llewellyn Potato. ficial manures described on an earlier page for enriching the soil if the latter be at all poor. Where the soil is at all heavy work in plenty of leaf-mould, burnt refuse, anil sand in autumn, trench the soil deeply, and leave the surface rough all the winter. In our " Book of the Potato " Mr. Edwin Beckett, in deal- ing with the culture of potatoes for exhibition, recommends a special compost of equal parts of old mushroom-bed manure and leaf-mould, to be prepared by passing the ingredients through a coarse-meshed sieve. To every four barrow-loadf 326 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. of this one fourth part of a peck of lime and soot should be added, and the heap be turned over several times. Trenches 3ft. 6in. wide have then to be dug out lft. wide and deep, and these half-filled with the above compost. On this the sprouted tubers have to be placed 2ft. apart, and the trenches filled with the compost. When the growths appear above the surface use the hoe frequently, and give occasional dust- ings of soot. No earthing up is required. As soon as the shoots are lft. high insert stakes along each side of the row, and then run strands of twine along to keep the haulm in an upright position. When the tubers are lifted store them in boxes of dryish soil in a cool dark shed till wanted. Store one layer only in each box. In other respects the cul- tural details are similar to those advised in preceding pages. Exhibition Notes. — Ideal tubers for exhibition, should be of good shape, even size, tree from specks and scales, and have shallow eyes. Coarseness, or over-largeness must be avoided ; medium sized tubers, all other points being favour- able, are preferable. Wash the tubers very carefully, using a sponge and soapy water for the purpose. Do not expose the tubers to the light. Perfect examples are worth seven points : three being allocated for freshness, freedom from specks, and shallowness of their eyes ; two for size, and two for evenness. Nine tubers constitute a dish. Pot Marigold Botanical Names. — Calendula officinalis. Foreign Names. — French, Souci des jardins ; Gorman, Ringelblume. Natural Order. — Composite. Native Habitat. — Southern Europe. Duration. — Annual. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 327 History. — This well-known annual is said to have been cultivated in England prior to 1573. Formerly it was grown largely for medicinal purposes, as well as for flavouring soups, broths, etc. It has become a fairly common weed in gardens. Uses. — When fully developed, the flowers are gathered, dried, and stored in paper bags for flavouring broths in winter. Culture. — Sow in drills a foot apart in ordinary soil, during May. Thin the seedlings out to a foot apart, when an inch or so high. Purslane. Botanical Name. — Portulaca oleraoea. Foreign Names. — French, Pourpier ; Danish and Ger- man, Portulak ; Dutch, Postelein ; Italian, Porcellana ; Spanish, Verdolaga; Portuguese, Beldroega. Natural Order. — Portulacacese. Native Habitat. — India. Duration. — Annual. History. — This plant appears to have been cultivated from the earliest times, and has consequently become naturalized in both tropical and temperate countries. It was first introduced into this country in 1582. Uses. — The young leaves and shoots are eaten cooked as vegetables, also in a raw state as a salad. Purslane is not grown so rmich as it deserves to be. Culture. — This is a very simple business. A comparatively light soil and a sunny position are the two main points to observe. Sow the seeds broadcast, or in shallow drills nine inches apart, in April, May, June, July, and August, to ensure 328 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. a succession of young shoots. When the seedlings are an inch high, thin them out to six inches apart. Gathering the Crop. — Cut off the young tops with a knife, as required. Quinoa. Botanical Name. — Chenopodium Quinoa. Foreign Names. — French, Anserine Quinoa blanc ; Ger- man, Peruanischer Res-Spinat. Natural Order. —OhenopodiaoEe. Native Habitat. — Peru. Duration. — Annual. History. — This plant was introduced into England about 1822. Little of interest is known about its early history. It grows four to six feet high. Uses. — The Quinoa is grown for the sake of its leaves, which are used as a substitute for spinach. In its native country the seeds are used for making bread and beer ; in fact, they form the staple food of the natives. Culture, Gathering the Crop, etc.— Precisely the same as advised for Orache, which see. Radish. Botanical Name.— Raphanus sativus. Foreign Names. -French, Radis ; Danish, Haveroeddike ; Dutch, Radijs ; German, Radios; Italian, Ravanello ; Spanish, Rabauito ; Portuguese, Itabao. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 329 Natural Order. — Cruciferse. Native Habitat— Southern Asia. Duration. — Annual. History. — The Radish is one of the oldest of our cultivated vegetables. It was largely grown in Egypt, in Pharaoh's time, Wood's Early FiiAMB Radish. and a favourite with the Romans and Greeks before the Chris- tian era. The Greeks thought so highly of it that one author devoted an entire book to it. The Romans took very great 330 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. pains in the cultivation of the Radish, and would appear to have aimed at size rather than youth and succulence in regard to the roots, since they produced the latter weighing from sixty to one hundred pounds each. The Radish was introduced into England about 1548. In 1597 Gerarde mentions that four sorts were then grown in English gardens. Uses. — In olden times Radishes were boiled and used in soups. At the present clay, however, they are eaten raw, either alone or in a mixed salad. The seed pods, if gathered young and on a dry day, form an excellent pickle, either alone or in conjunction with other vegetables. Soil. — To grow really tender, 'crisp Radishes, a light, rich soil is necessary. Heavy, damp soils, or those that are of a poor, hungry nature, will not yield good results. The bed in- tended for Radish culture should be dug two spits deep the previous autumn, and have plenty of rotten manure and decayed refuse worked in with it. Where only a few Radishes are required, special beds need not be prepared, however, since very fair Radishes may be grown on asparagus beds, outside vine borders, or between the rows of early peas and potatoes. Manures. — Apart from seeing that the soil is made rich by the addition of decayed manure, etc., in autumn, apply the follow- ing artificials at intervals of a week, to the plants after they are well up : kainit, half an ounce ; sulphate of ammonia, one ounce ; superphosphate, two ounces ; iron sulphate, half an ounce, per gallon of water. This will promote a rapid growth, aud ensure tender, succulent roots. Outdoor Crops. — The first sowing may be made in January or early in February on a south border. For ordinary purposes, February is quite soon enough to sow the first lot of seed. Further sowings may be made weekly, fortnightly, or monthly up to autumn. The ordinary sowings may be made on asparagus beds or between other crops, or in special beds four feet, with one-foot alleys between. If grown in beds, sow broadcast ; if in other positions, such as between rows of peas, POPULAR VEGETABLES. 331 sow in rows. Tt is really better to sow broadcast where possible, as when sown in drills the seed is apt to be covered too deeply. It should be only just covered, and the surface lightly beaten with the hack of a spade. Directly the seed- lings appear, thin them out tn three or four inches apart. In Red Turnip Radishes. dry weather, see that the bed has plenty of water. If grown in dry soil, the roots will be tough and stringy. Early-sown crops just coming through the soil must be protected by a slight covering of straw. Birds are very partial to the seeds, 3.32 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. so protect the beds by placing strands of black cotton across here and there. Winter Radishes (Black Spanish) have to be sown in July or early in August, in drills nine inches asunder. When the seedlings are well up, thin them out to six inches apart. Tn November, lift the roots, and store them in a cool shed. When Radishes are sown during the summer months, always choose a shady position for the bed. Frame Culture. — For a winter supply, Radishes should be sown about the first week in October. An old cucumber or melon bed will answer admirably for this sowing; all that is necessary is tn level down the soil, sow the seed, and then well water it in. The lights may r be closed till the seed germinates, when they should be entirely withdrawn. All that is needful in the way of protection, is to keep the plants safe from frost, and if this be done effectually, a good supply of Radishes may be had at Christmas and onwards. For an early spring supply, procure in January, or early in February, sufficient fresh stable manure to make up a hotbed three feet deep, and one foot wider all round the frames. The manure saved from the stable, along with the shortest of the litter, should be thrown up in a heap under cover, and turned once or twice a week to keep it in a fresh condition, until the amount required has been got together, then at once proceed with the making up of the bed, as before stated. Before putting on the lights, place in a thermometer, then allow the bed to settle down for a week or ten days. Should the heat rise suddenly to over SO deg., give a light shaking with the fork. VVhen the temperature remains steady below 70 deg., spread over evenly three or four inches of finely-sifted soil somewhat moist, but neither too wet or dry, on which sow the seed broadcast, evenly and thinly ; rake it in, or scatter some finely-sifted soil, sufficient only to cover the seed. The frames should be covered with mats or tiffany until the young plants appear, when they should be uncovered during the day, and on bright, warm days a little air can be admitted for a few hours by tilting the lights. Thin out the plants where necessary, so that they do not touch each other. The aim should be to obtain a sturdy growth, and fine, crisp roots. Moisten with lukewarm water through a fine rose, only POPULAR VEGETABLES. 333 when necessary. The lust thinning, if properly done, can he used for eating. If proper attention has been shown, the crop can be cleared off in six or seven weeks from time of sowing, when another sowing can be made on the same bed, or, if Sutton's White Forcing Tornip Radish. preferable, a dwarf variety of cabbage lettuce can be planted, six or eight inches apart, on the bed. Radish seeds may also 334 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. be sown in conjunction with carrots on a hotbed, thus '• killing two birds with one stone." The Radishes will be oft' before the carrots require the extra room. Gathering the Crop. — Radishes should be gathered as required for use. Choose the medium-sized roots, not the old or large ones, as the latter are generally rather ''hot" and tough. Tie in small bunches of a dozen or less. If gathered some time before use stand the roots in water. Exhibition Notes. — Radishes, if nice and crisp, bright in colour, and of medium size, will always count well in a collection of salad vegetables. To get roots of this stamp, the seed must be sown on good soil, the plants thinned out early, and the roots kept well moistened. For show purposes, put the round and olive-shaped sorts into round bunches, and the long ones, into flat bunches. Twelve of the former, and eighteen of the latter, constitute a proper bunch. Carefully wash the roots clean, and try and keep them as fresh as possible till the day of exhibition. Radishes are worth three points : one each for size, condition and uniformity. Rampion. Botanical Name. — Campanula Rapunculus. Foreign Names. — French, Raiponce; Dutch, Rapunsel ; German, Rapunzel-Rube ; Spanish, Reponche ; Portuguese, Rapunculo. Natural Order. — Campanulacese. Native Habitat.— Europe (including Britain). Duration. — Biennial. History and Uses. — This indigenous plant was once cultivated largely in English gardens. It is, however, seldom grown here iiow-a-days, though in France and Germany it is still a popular vegetable. The roots were cooked and eaten POPULAR VEGETABLES. 335 like parsnips. They are somewhat sweet in flavour. The roots are also eaten raw like Radishes, or boiled and cat up in salads. Some people likewise use both roots and young leaves in winter salads. Culture. — Seeds may be sown in May, June, or July, in very shallow drills six inches apart. The soil should be rich and the position shady. Thin out the seedlings when an inch high to four inches apart, and keep moist in dry weather, also free from weeds. Gathering the Crop. — The roots are ready for use between November and April. They can be lifted as required, or lifted and stored in sand in a cool frost-proof- place till wan ted. Rhubarb. Botanical Name. — See " History " below. Foreign Name. — French, Rhubarbe ; Danish, Rhabarber ; German, Rhabarber ; Italian, Rabarbaro ; Spanish and Portu- guese, Ruibarbo. Natural Order. — Polygonacese. Native Habitat. — Central Asia and Himalayas. Duration. — Perennial. History. — The Rhubarb, cultivated for its leaf-stalks in gardens, is the offspring of two species named Rheum rhaponticum and R. undulatum. It was first grown in Eng- lish gardens as a vegetable about 1573. From then until the beginning of the last century it was only cultivated for its leaves which were used as a substitute for spinach. The old herbalists used the roots and other parts of the plant for medicinal purposes. Early in the last century, Phillips says, " It is now cultivated principally for spring tarts ; the young stalks of the leaves, being peeled and cut, make an agreeable 3.36 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. pudding or tart, which many persons prefer to green goose berries. It is also served up in creams, etc. Medical men have recommended it as one of the most cooling and wholesome tarts sent to table. It is now forced for the London markets, where it meets with a ready and profitable sale. 1 ' From this period onwards Rhubarb has been grown in almost every garden. Uses. — In these days Rhubarb is used in an ordinary and forced condition for making tarts, also for forming jam and wine, the latter being especially good, if properly made. Soil. — Rhubarb will succeed in any fairly good soil if deeply worked. Heavy soils, if well worked and dressed with road grit, decayed refuse, and manure, will grow Rhubarb well. The main point is deep cultivation. The position should, if possible, be an open one, although Rhubarb will do fairly well in shade. Manure. — The soil must be rich, and therefore, plenty of manure should be dug in before planting. When the roots are established and growing freely, they may bs given an occasional watering with liquid manure from the stable or manure yard. A good artificial manure consists of two ounces of kainit, two ounces of superphosphate, and a quarter of an ounce of sulphate of iron, added to each gallon of water used. An alternative method is to apply an ounce per square yard of kainit and superphosphate, together with a dressing of rotten manure in autumn or earl)' winter, and an ounce of nitrate of soda per square yard, in April or May. Propagation. — Rhubarb is propagated by seed, and by division of the roots. The former should be sown in light soil, in a warm greenhouse in March, the seedlings carefully planted singly in small pots, and when nicely rooted, placed in a cold frame to harden, then planted out in the garden. Much better results are, however, obtained by purchasing roots of first class sorts, or by lifting large roots of good sort varieties in February, dividing them into parts, each contain- ing one good bud, and planting these out at once. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 337 Planting. — In February (assuming the land to be trenched and liberally manured), plant out the crowns three feet apart in rows the same distance asunder. Plant so that the point of each bud is a couple of inches beneath the surface of the soil. Mvatt's Victoria Rhubarb. General Culture. — After planting, the only attention needed will be to apply the manures as already advised, to fork over the soil between the beds in early spring, ' and to 338 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. remove any flower-stems that may form. A Rhubarb planta- tion will last for ten years, but it is advisable to renew it every five years. Forcing Rhubarb. — Forced Rhubarb is usually much appreciated after Christmas, when apples are getting scarce. It is also one of the few things that are improved in quality and appearance by being forced in the dark. For the first supply, the roots should be dug up soon after the leaves have quite died down, and if they can be left exposed to a slight frost or two before placing in warmth, they usually start into growth better when once placed in heat. An excellent place for an early batch of Rhubarb, is under- neath the stage in a stove or warm greenhouse, the darker the better. If found to be more convenient, the stools or roots may be placed in large pots or boxes, when they can be moved from one place to another, as may be desirable. At the turn of the year, when the forcing of vineries and peach houses commences, these structures will be found suitable, if room can be spared. Those who possess a mushroom house, will find this an excellent place in which to force Rhubarb, as the warmth and darkness necessary for the mushroom crop is just what is required to produce good Rhubarb. A warm cellar or stoke hole will do equally well in January and onwards. Almost any soil will be suitable for placing around the roots when introduced to warmth, but equal parts of garden soil and leaf-mould is, perhaps, as good as anything that can be used. The roots should first be placed on two or three inches of the soil, and more worked between and around them. A very important point in producing Rhubarb of good colour and quality, is keeping the soil and roots thoroughly moist, and frequent sprinklings with tepid water will be found necessary, especially in warm positions, or the stalks will be tough and stringy, instead of solid and crisp. Rhubarb may be forced in the open ground by covering the crowns with earthenware pots which are sold for the purpose, and furnished with movable lids ; or old apple barrels sawn asunder in the middle, employing pieces of board to cover the top and form movable lids. These pots or boxes must be embedded in warm stable manure, or this and leaves mixed in POPULAR VEGETABLES. 339 the proportion of about two parts of the former to one of the latter. A long stake or two should be placed in the bed to test the heat, and care should be taken to see that it does not get too fierce, or the crowns of the plants and the young leaves will be scorched. January and February are suitable months in which to force Rhubarb thus. A supply of Rhubarb may be obtained a few weeks earlier than the uncovered roots will produce, by simply covering each crown or plant with pots, tubs, or barrels, no manure being required. It is not a wise plan to force Rhubarb two years in succession, consequently, half a bed should be forced one season and the other half the next. Gathering the Crop.— The leaf-stalks as required, should be pulled off, not cut. The latter causes the sap to ooze out UHAMPAONE KUOfliRB, and weaken the roots. No leaves should be pulled off a plant the same year as planted. Even in the second year, it is not wise to remove too many leaves. Exhibition Notes. — To ensure really fine stems or "sticks," the plants must be generously grown in soil trenched three to four feet deep and liberally manured. The roots, too, must be supplied with the liquid or artificial manures pre- viously advised. Select perfectly straight stems of even length and size, and let them be as fresh and bright in colour as possible. Cut off the leaves to within a couple of inches of their base, and carefully sponge the stems quite clean. Tie them into a neat bundle of six. Good samples are worth four points : two being for size and uniformity, and two for colour and freshness. 340 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Rocambole. Botanical Name. — Allium Seorodoprasum. Foreign Names. — French, Ail Rocambole; German, Roccambol ; Danish, Rokambol ; Italian, Aglio d'India ; Portuguese, Alho de Hespanha. Natural Order. — Liliaceae. Native Habitat. — South Europe. Duration. — Perennial. History. — This bulbous rooted vegetable, belonging to the Onion family, has been in cultivation since 1596. Ft has com- pound bulbs like the Garlic and Shallot. Uses. — The bulbs, which are milder than those of the garlic, are used for a similar purpose. Soil. — Light, rich loam. Culture.- Plant the cloves or divisions of the bulbs a couple of inches deep and six inches apart in rows eight, inches asunder early in March. Stir the soil belween the rows occasionally. Gathering the Crop. — Lift the bulbs when the lcavei turn yellow, dry, and store away similar to garlic. Rosemary. Botanical Name. — Rosmarinus officinalis. Foreign Names. — French, Rornarin ; German, Rosmarin ; Flemish and Dutch, Rozemarijn ; Danish, Rosmarin ; Italian, Rosmarino ; Spanish, Romero; Portuguese, Alecrim. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 341 Natural Order. — Labiate. Native Habitat. — Southern Europe. Duration. — Evergreen shrub. History. — Rosemary is a fragrant herb of ancient repute. Both Greeks aud Romans wore well acquainted with it, using it for making garlands for the head. At one time it grew abundantly in Spain and Italy, and the inhabitants are said to have used it for fuel. Rosemary appears to have been intro- duced into this country about 1548. Shakespeare alludes to it in " Hamlet " — " There's rosemary, that's for remembrance," And also in "Romeo and Juliet." At one time it was used as a token of remembrance at funerals, and later as a symbol of fidelity at weddings. Uses. — The shoots are sometimes used for making hair washes, flavouring lard, etc., and for distilling, to make oil of rosemary. Soil. — This must be of a light, well-drained, and fairly rich character. A heavy soil is out of the question. The position, too, must be sunny. The best plants we have seen grew at the base of an old stone wall. Grown in the open the site must be sheltered from north and east winds, and slope to the south. Culture. — The Rosemary can be easily reared from seeds sown in shallow drills six inches apart on a sunny border out- doors in April, transplanting the seedlings when a few inches high to a nursery bed, where they should be six inches apart each way, and finally planting out three feet asunder. Plants may also be reared from slips, i.e., young shoots pulled off with a "heel" of old wood and inserted in sandy soil in a shady position any time in summer. The rooted slips may be planted out permanently three feet apart each way in March or April. The first season nip off the points of the shoots to induce the plants to make bushy growth. The following autumn top-dress with manure, and fork this in in sprintr. 342 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Gathering the Crop. — It is the leaves and not the flowers that constitute the distilling value of this crop ; at least, so Dr. Piesse says. The practice where Rosemary is grown for distillation is, to cut off the young shoots with a sickle, and take them straight to the still. Those who intend to grow Rosemary for distillation should make en- quiries of perfumery distillers as to quantities needed, and the best time to send in the produce. Apart from its value for distillation, hairdressers may use the young shoots and flowers for making specifics for the hair. Beekeepers, more- over, would find a few plants in flower of great service to the bees, as the honey collected therefrom has a distinctly pleasing flavour. Runner Bean. Botanical Name, — Phaseolus multiflorus. Foreign Names.— French, Haricots d'Espagne ; German, Arabische Bohne ; Dutch, Tursche boon ; Italian, Faginolo di Spagna. Natural Order. — Leguminospe. Native Habitat. — South America. Duration. — Perennial. History.— The Scarlet Runner Bean, although introduced so long ago as 1633, was not until well into the last, century culti- vated for food. Phillips, writing in 1821, says, " It is rather remarkable that although this variety has been cultivated in England since 1633, yet there still exists a prejudice against these beans ; some, on account of their size, consider them too old. The Author remembers them being planted in many parts of the country, merely as an ornament to cover walls, and to form harbours, without any idea of cooking the pods for the table." These prejudices have long since disappeared, for the Scarlet Runner Bean has now become one of the most POPULAR VEGETABLES. 343 popular vegetables in town, suburban, and country gardens. In England, it is grown as an annual, but it is really a perennial with tuberous roots, which, however, are exceedingly poisonous. If the roots were lifted in autumn, and stored in a frost-proof place, till the middle of April, then planted out, they would give an earlier supply of pods than those reared Fkizewinnek Runneb Bean. from seed, but the crop would not be of suck good quality. The best results are really got from seeds. Uses. — The Scarlet Runner Bean is grown for its pods, which are gathered young, sliced, cooked, and served as an 34 1 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. agreeable vegetable during the summer and autumn months. Surplus pods may be pickled in salt jars for use in winter. Soil. — The Runner Bean is not over particular about soil, though to get the very best results, a (Jeep, rich loam is desirable. If the soil should be very light or sandy, it is advisable to dig trenches eighteen inches to two feet wide, and two feet deep. In the bottom put a foot of decayed manure, then nine inches of a mixture of equal parts of decayed manure and soil This will hold the moisture in dry weather, provide an abundance of rich food for the roots to feed on when the plants reach the bearing stage, and ensure a heavy crop. Those who cannot afford so much manure, may simply dig out trenches a foot wide and deep, put four inches of manure in the bottom, and six inches of a mixture of soil and manure on top. In ordinary soils, it is simply necessary to dig in plenty of manure in winter, and not to make trenches. The main points to consider are a deeply dug and well manured soil, with plenty of moisture in hot weather. Manures. — For information on this subject, see the para- graph on manure?, in the article on Kidney Beans. The advice given there, applies equally to the Scarlet Runner Beau. Modes of Culture. — The Scarlet Runner Bean may be grown in a variety of waj s. In town and suburban gardens, it may be profitably used to clothe an ugly wall or fence, or decorate an arch ; in allotment gardens, to cover an improvised arbour; in gardens generally, to drape a pergola over a path- way, as well as to form pillars, or grow in the orthodox rows in the vegetable plots. In all these cases, the plants must be provided with something to twine round for support. On allotments, or in gardens where stakes cannot conveniently be had, the Runner Bean may be grown as a dwarf. In this case, the points of the main shoots, when a foot long, must be removed, and any subsequent shoots treated similarly. This system entails a good deal of trouble, but if properly carried out, good and early crops may be grown. When to Sow. — For the earliest crops a sowing may be made in heat in April, the plants carefully hardened oft', and POPULAR VEGETABLES. 345 planted out in May We are of opinion that this is quite au unnecessary course to adopt. In the first place, it involves a lot of care and trouble, and the results do not prove com- mensurate in return. If the first sowing be made the first week in May in the open, this will be quite soon enough. Where a succession of pods are wanted till late in the autumn a second sowing may be made at the end of May, and a third at the end of June. For ordinary purposes one sowing (the first) will suffice. How to Sow. — If the plants are to be grown against a fence, draw flat drills six inches wide and three inches deep. Drop the seeds four inches apart, and cover them with two inches of soil, thus leaving a shallow trough to receive water later on. If to be grown in rows in the plots, draw drills similar to the above six feet apart, and sow one line of seeds in each ; or draw a drill a foot wide, and sow two lines of seed down it, thus :'.'.'. the seeds being four inches apart and the rows six inches. These double row drills should be eight to twelve feet apart. In each case the seeds are to be covered with two inches of soil only, a shallow trough being left to receive moisture later on. When to be grown in clumps or against arches simply dibble the seeds three inches deep and four inches apart. If the trench system be adopted sow the seeds in two lines nine inches apart where the width is two feet, and one line where it is only one foot. Cover with two inches of mould, leaving the remaining inch to form a depression for receiving water, etc. It is usual to sow a small patch or short row of seeds to form a reserve to draw from for transplanting, in case the plants in the rows should fail. General Culture. — Keep a sharp look out for snails and slugs, dusting the surface with slaked lime or soot, if the pests attack the seedlings. As soon as the plants show an indica- tion to " run," steps must be taken to provide them with the necessary support. This may take the form of special stakes sold for the purpose, and ten to twelve feet long. These may be firmly inserted at a single angle on each side of a double row, the tops crossing a little about eighteen inches from the apex. Along the forks, another stake is placed horizontally, 346 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. and the sloping stakes secured to this by tar twine. In the case of a single row of plants, use one row of stakes only, and place these quite upright on the south side of a row. When grown in patches, three poles arranged equidistantly at the base, and joining at the top, where they should be tied, will suffice. Another simple plan is a framework of wood like Fig. I. — This consists of two posts (a) 2} inches square, and ten to twelve feet high, placed one at each end of the row of beans. Fn Cround ~~- Leye/. I A C.J04 I. Support fok Scarlet Runner Beans. and another slightly smaller one in the ceutre (b) of the row. Along . the top is a piece of wood (c) one inch square. Stretched along the bottom, and six inches from the ground, is a piece of rope (d) ; to this, and the piece of wood fixed across the top, are stretched vertical strands (e) of twine, six inches apart, round which the beans twine. Such a contrivance is less costly than stakes, looks neater, and answers the purpose admirably. In training the shoots of beans, always turn them the contrary way to the course of the sun. When the POPULAR VEGETABLES. 347 plants reach the top of the stakes or trainer, out off their tops. This will cause them to bear more heavily. In hot weather, see that the roots have an ample supply of water, with occasional applications of liquid manure. On the evenings of hot days, a syringing will do the plants good. On hot, dry soils, a mulching with manure will be greatly beneficial. Gathering the Crop. — When Runner Beans are in full bearing, the rows should be gone over carefully daily, arid no pods allowed to develop too large. If one or two are left to mature on a plant, it will cease bearing. Exhibition Notes.— For exhibition purposes grow in trenches in double rows ten inches apart, and sow the seeds eight inches apart. Feed liberally. When the bunches have formed, reduce the number of pods to a couple on each, and see that the points of the shoots are removed from time to time. The points and general remarks re exhibiting, given for Kidney Beans, apply equally to Runner Beans. Rue. Botanical Name. — Ruta graveolens. Foreign Names. — French, Rue; German, Raute j Dutch, Wijnruit; Spanish, Ruda. Natural Order. — Rutacese. Native Habitat. — Southern Europe. Duration. — Evergreen shrub. History. — Rue is said to have been first grown in England in 1562, but Tusser, the agricultural writer, refers to it before that period. It was a favourite herb with the Romans, and the Greeks bordered their gardens with Parsley and Rue. The old herbalists had great faith in its medicinal virtues. 348 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Uses. — This well-known herb was formerly used extensively for making Kue tea. Distillers use the leaves for yielding an otto employed in making toilet and cosmetic vinegar. It is not a herb to plant extensively, but a few roots in an odd corner would be worth growing for making Rue tea. Soil. — Any ordinary light soil will do. The position must be sunny. Culture. — Sow seeds in shallow drills six inches apart in April, and plant the seedlings out ten inches apart each way. Also increased by cuttings or slips in sandy soil in a shady border in summer. Gathering the Crop. — Gather the shoots as required. Sage. Botanical Name. — Salvia officinalis. Foreign Names.— French, Sauge officinale; German, Salbei ; Flemish and Dutch, Salie; Italian and Spanish, Salvia; Portuguese, Molho. Natural Order. — Labiatse. Native Habitat. — Southern Europe. Duration. — Evergreen shrub. History. — The Common Sage of our gardens was first in- troduced into this country in 1573. Tt was cultivated by the French and Dutch before this time. It is recorded that the Dutch used to collect and dry the leaves and forward them to China, the Chinese exchanging fo\ir pounds of their best tea for one pound of dried Sage. The Chinese, so it is recorded, pre- ferred the dried leaves to the tea of their own growth. In days gone by, Sage was used for a greater variety of pur- poses than it is now. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 349 Uses. — The leaves are used for seasoning and flavouring purposes. Soil. — Like the parsley, the Sage requires a dryish, well- drained soil. It will grow in a clay soil, but in damp, cold winters the plants have a tendency to die off All who have light, dry soils and a warm position may grow Sage with a certainty of success. The land must be deeply dug and well manured before planting, as the crop has to grow for three to four years afterwards without the chance of stirring the soil deeply. Culture. — Sage may be increased by seeds or cuttings. The former should be sown on a sunny border in March or April, the seedlings being transplanted four inches apart each way in a reserve or nursery bed as soon as large enough to handle, and finally planted in their permanent quarters the following- March or April. Generally speaking, it pays best to raise the required stock of plants from cuttings or rooted slips. For this purpose, choose bushy old plants with plenty of shoots growing from the base. Pull these off the parent plant with a slight portion of the old stem attached. If such slips are furnished with a few roots they may be planted straight away a foot apart in rows two feet asunder. Those that are not rooted should be dibbled in four inches apart in rows six inches asunder, be kept moist, and allowed to remain till established. April is the best time to take the slips or cuttings. When they are rooted transplant as above advised. The cultural details consist of keeping the crop free from weeds, and of giving an annual dressing of dung in autumn, which may be lightly forked in in spring. A plantation will last in bearing condition from three to four years. It is a good plan to rear a few plants every year and to make a new plantation, so that a regular supply of shoots may be obtained. Gathering the Crop. — Gather the young shoots as re- quired. To dry Sage for bottling and using in a dry state, tie up in small bunches and suspend in an airy loft or shed. When dry strip off the leaves, rub them up fine, and then store in air-tight bottles and label. 350 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Salsafy. Botanical Name. — Tragopogon porrifolius. Synonyms. — Goat's Beard, and Vegetable Oyster. Foreign Names. — French, Salsifis; Danish, Havrerod ; German, Haferwurzel ; Flemish, Haverwortel ; Italian, Barba di beoco ; Spanish, Salsifi bianco ; Portuguese, Cercifi. Natural Order. — ComposiUe. Native Habitat. — Europe. Naturalized in South of England. Duration. — Biennial. History. — Some authorities say the Salsafy is an indi- genous plant, others, that it is naturalized in moist meadows in Southern England. We cannot find any evidence as to when it was first cultivated here, but it appears to have grown for a long time on the Continent. Uses. — The long white roots, after scraping and throwing into water, with a little lemon juice, and boiling for half an hour in water containing salt, lemon juice, and butter, then serving with cream on toast, make a most agreeable dish for those who like sweetish vegetables. At one time, the young flower stalks were cooked and served like Asparagus. It is a vegetable for winter use. The roots are also boiled and grated, to form patties or vegetable oysters. Soil. — The soil must be fairly rich, and trenched three spits deep. The position, too, must be a sunny one. Stony soil is unsuitable. Manures. — Stable manure must not be used for this vegetable. The soil, therefore, should be such as has been liberally manured for a previous crop, say Celery or Peas. Use the artificial manures advised for Carrots. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 351 Culture. — If a large supply be needed, make one sowing in March, and another late in April. For ordinary purposes, one sowing about mid-April, will suffice. Draw the drills an inch deep, and a foot apart. Sow the seeds very thinly. When KALSA1X. the seedlings are a few inches high, gradually thin them out to ten inches apart. Use the hoe frequently to keep down weeds. If any flower-stems form, remove them at once. Lifting and Storing, — Lift a portion, or the whole of the crop in November, and store them as advised for Carrots. 352 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Those who wish to try the experiment of cooking the young flower-stems in spring, should leave some roots in the ground, and cut off the young stems when six inches or so high. Exhibition Notes. — Fine roots for exhibition purposes may be grown in the same manner as advised for exhibition Parsnips. Roots for show, should be large, even in length, unforked, smooth and clean. Wash and prepare as advised for beet-roots. Nine to twelve constitute a dish. Their point value is three : one each being allocated for size, smoothness, and even shape. Savory. Botanical Names. — Satureia hortensis (Summer Savory); Satureia montana (Winter Savory). Foreign Names. — Summer.— French, Sarriette annuelle German, Bohnenkraut; Flemish and Dutch, Boonenkruid Danish, Sar \ Italian, Santoreggia ; Spanish, Ajedrea comun Portuguese, Segurelha. Winter. — French, Sarriette vivace German, Perennirender oder, Winter Bohnenkraut ; Spanish Hisopillo. Natural Order.— Labiatse. Native Habitat. — Southern Europe. Duration. — Summer Savory, annual ; Winter Savory, perennial. History. — Both herbs were grown by the Romans and G reeks, and appear to have been introduced into England about 1562. Uses. — A herb much in request for flavouring soups, and other culinary purposes. Soil. — This should not be too heavy, but fairly rich, and the position a sunny one. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 353 Culture. — The Summer Savory requires to be raised from seed sown in shallow drills, six inches apart, in April. When the seedlings are well up, thin them out to six inches apart. If a very early supply is wanted, sow some seeds in shallow boxes filled with light soil, and place in a gentle heat, in March. Harden off the seedlings late in April, and plant out in May. The Winter Savory may be reared from seeds in the same way as the preceding kind. Old plants may be divided and replanted in March. The latter kind gives the least trouble, as the plants thrive year after year in the same plot. It is, however, better to grow both kinds, as some prefer the Summer Savory. Gathering the Crop. — Gather the young shoots as required for use. The shoots, when in flower, may be collected, dried, reduced to a fine state, and placed in bottles as advised for Sage. Savoy. Botanical Name. — Brassica oleracea bullata. Foreign Names. — French, Chou de Milan ; Danish, Savoj'-Kaal ; Dutch, Savooi-Kool ; German, Woising, Savoyer- kohl, Borskohl ; Italian, Cavolo de Milano : Spanish, Col. de Milan ; Portuguese, Saboia. Natural Order. — Cruciferffi. Native Habitat. — Europe. Duration. — Biennial. History — The Savoy Cabbage is said to have been grown in English gardens for three centuries. It appears to have been first raised in the Duchy of Savoy, and from thence in- troduced into France, and finally into this country. It differs very little, except in its wrinkled foliage, from the ordinary cabbage. N 354 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Uses. — The hearts are cooked and served in a similar way to those of the cabbage. They are in season in autumn and 1 ^~ttH\&j$B& Drumhead Savoy. early winter, and possess the best flavour if cut and cooked after the first autumnal frost. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 356 Culture. — So far as soil, manures, and general details are concerned, those given for the Cabbage apply equally to the Savoy. We ought, perhaps, to say that very good Savoys may be grown on ordinary rich soil not specially manured for them. For example, plots just cleared of early Peas will grow excellent Savoys without even a preliminary digging. The plants may be put in with a dibber or crowbar, the soil made firm, and good waterings given till they are established. Two sowings should be made, one in March and one at the end of April. Treat the seedlings as advised for young Cabbage. The earlier sown plants should be planted out finally in May, and the latter ones before the end of June. Plant the dwarf varieties a foot apart in rows fifteen inches asunder, and the larger ones eighteen inches apart in rows two feet asunder. The two sowings will afford a succession from October to February. Treat in all other respects, including gathering, as advised for Cabbages. Exhibition Notes. — See remarks under this heading in the articles on Cabbages. Scorzonera. Botanical Name. — Scorzonera hispanica. Foreign Names. — French, Scorsonere ; Danish, Schor- senerrod ; Dutch, Schorseneel; German, Scorzoner ; Italian, Scorzonera ; Spanish, Escorzonera ; Portuguese, Escorcioneira. Natural Order. — Composite. Native Habitat. — Spain. Duration. — Perennial. History. — Scorzonera was first introduced into England about 1576. It was commonly known by the name of Viper's Grass, the latter name owing its derivation to a preparation of the root being used by the Spaniards as x cure for serpent bites. n 2 356 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Uses. —The carrot-shaped roots which are black outside and white within, are cooked and eaten like those of the salsafy. The taste is sweet and agreeable, and possesses the antibilious properties of the dandelion. The roots are reputed to be very nutritious and healthful, and, consequently, deserve to be widely grown. Scokzonera. Culture. — Scorzonera requires similar soil and manures to Salsafy. Sow the seed in drills a foot apart and half an inch deep at the end of April. Thin the seedlings out eventually to nine inches apart in the row, and in all other details treat as advised for salsafy. Exhibition Notes. — The remarks given for Salsafy apply equally to Scorzonera. Seakale. Botanical Name. — Grambe maritima. Foreign Named. — French, Crambe ; German, Meer-odei See-Kohl ; Danish, Strand-kaal ; Dutch, Zeekool ; Spanish, Soldanela maritama. Natural Order. — Cruciferas. Native Habitat. — Europe, including Britain. Duration. — Perennial. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 357 Hiitory.— Seakale is a native of the southern sandy sea shores of Britain, as well as of Dublin Kay and other [.arts of Europe. It is said to have been used as a vegetable by the people of Dublin Bay long before the English people thought of it for that purpose ; but Parkinson, a sixteenth century writer, alludes to Seakale as being cooked in his time like cabbage. Pierpoint Johnson, in his " Useful Plants of Great Britain," says, "Seakale is common on many of our sandy shores, especially in the West of England, where the inhabi- tants have, for a long time, been accustomed to cut the soft shoots out of the sand, in the early spring, and eat them boiled likr; asparagus." Forced Seakale. Some seventeen years ago, a contributor to " Amateur Gardening " sent us a very fine sample of Seakale, grown on the Solent beach and shingle, and we must say, we never tasted better. The first person to recommend Seakale culture in gardens, was a Dr. Lettsom, of Camberwell. He wrote a treatise on the subject, in 1767. A little later on, Mr. W. Curtis, F.L.S., also published a treatise on Seakale. and from that time onwards, the culture of this vegetable outdoors, and forcing it for earlv use, gradually become more DODular. 358 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Uses. — The blanched shoots of Seakale, properly cooked and served with white sauce on toast, make a most delicious winter and early spring vegetable. If spare roots are heeled in, in a sheltered place, and the growths allowed to proceed till four or five inches long, then cut off in a green state, and cooked, they, too, will make a most agreeable dish. Soil. — Seakale will succeed in almost any soil that has been properly worked. The ideal soil is a sandy one, like that in which it grows naturally in a wild state on the sea shore. In the case of light or sandy soils, dig them three spits deep, and bury a good layer of cow, pig, or peat-moss litter manure between each spit. On heavy soils trench deeply, also using plenty of horse manure, road grit, and decayed refuse to lighten and enrich it. The soil cannot be too deeply stirred and liberally manured. The situation must be an open, sunny one. Manures. — In addition to the manures above mentioned, seaweed is a splendid fertilizer for Seakale. As regards artificials, guano, at the rate of one pound per square rod, applied in May or June, will be a suitable kind to use. Salt sprinkled over the foliage and soil, at the rate of one to two handfuls per square yard, or nitrate of soda, at the rate of an ounce per square yard, both applied in earl} 7 summer, are also beneficial. Propagation. — This is accomplished by seed, and by root cuttings. The former is a cheap and satisfactory method, but you have to wait a couple of }'ears before the crop is fit for use. The seed may be sown in a nursery bed in drills a foot apart, in March, the seedlings thinned out to six inches apart, and the plants finally lifted the following February or March, and planted out in their permanent quarters. Another method is to draw drills an inch deep, and two and a half feet apart, and to drop a few seeds at intervals of two feet. Cover with soil, and when the seedlings appear, and it can be seen which is likely to be the strongest one in each group, thin them out to one in each place. It will not be necessary in this case to transplant the seedlings ; they will grow there permanently. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 358 The other method of propagation is as follows : The fangs or extremities of roots used for forcing, are cut into lengths about four inches. The upper or wide end is cut straight across, and the lower or narrow end slantwise. These fangs or thongs make excellent cuttings, and although they have apparently no buds, yet, when planted, a number will soon form round the edge of the upper end. The portions intended for cuttings may be removed from the main root when lifted for forcing, or after forcing is completed. In the former case, store the cuttings in sand or moist earth till wanted. Planting. — Supposing it is required to plant one-year-old seedlings, or old plants, the procedure is as follows : — Mark oft' beds ten feet wide with three feet paths between. Stretch a line tw r o and a half feet from the edge, open a trench one foot deep and then plant the roots two feet apart, with their tops a couple of inches below the surface. Early in March is a good time to do this. Proceed in the same way with root cuttings, if they are intended to be left permanently, and the shoots blanched in the open ground. If, however, the plants are to be lifted the following winter for forcing, plant them fifteen inches apart in rows twenty inches asunder. In the case of seedlings and older roots, the crown or upper part of the main root must be cut off before planting. If this be not clone the root will produce a flower stem, and its usefulness for forcing or otherwise be impaired. General Culture. — Seedlings grown permanently must have the soil cleared away round their crowns early in March, so as to enable the crown to be cut off for the reasons just ex- plained. In due course all the roots so treated will produce a number of shoots from each root. Only one should be allowed to tow, the others being rubbed off. Under no circumstances whatever allow flower stems to form. During the summer give occasional dustings of soot, salt, or guano, also liquid manure, to encourage the plants to make strong growth. Use the hoe freely between the younger plantations. When reared from seed, Lettuces and Radishes may be grown between the rows the first season, so as to make the best use of the ground. Clear off the leaves when decayed, fork over the surface, and 360 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. then the plantation will l>e ready for covering with pots, manure, and leaves for blanching. Forcing Seakale. — There are several methods of forcing Seakale, but the best and cleanest is to lift the roots and force' them in a gentle bottom heat or in a mushroom house ; but to obtain a supply before and at Christmas, the roots must lie given more heat than is usually supplied to mushrooms. < >ur practice is to lift one year-old roots, especially grown for the purpose, and to plant them thickly in a box. This should not be less than nine or ten inches in depth, so that the crowns do not stand above the level of the box when planted. Almost any kind of soil will do for filling in among the roots, although a light soil in which a good bit of leaf-mould has beeu mixed, is the best. After the roots are planted a good soaking of water should be given, and the box placed on two rows of hot-water pipes under the stage in a hothouse. When all is finished, an empty box, at least nine inches in depth, and the same size as the one in which the roots are planted, must be placed over the crowns to keep the growing Seakale dark, so as to thoroughly blanch it. This top box will require carefully lifting off occasionally to give the Seakale a good watering when necessary. To keep up a supply it is as well to intro- duce a small batch weekly. After the turn of the year Seakale is very easily forced in a warm cellar or other structure which can be kept dark, and may either be planted in large flower-pots or boxes, or even on the floor of the house. When lifting Seakale for forcing purposes, the long thong-like roots should be cut off to within an inch of the main root, and be carefully preserved to forma new planta- tion. To keep them fresh they should be placed in a heap and covered with some short, moist litter or leaves. Another way of forcing Seakale is to plant the roots in batches in spring, three plants in a patch, and two feet apart, and so arranged as to distance from each other that a laro-e flower pot will cover each patch ; of course, proper Seakale pots made for the purpose with movable lids are the best, but large flower-pots, old boxes, or even tubs, will do for make- shifts A certain number of patches to produce as much Seakale as will be likely to be required at one time may be Forced Skakale. A simple method for forcing Seakale in pots under tut- staging- of heated greenhouses or in other wajm, dark places indoors., POPULAR VEGETABLES. 361 covered with warm manure and leaves, using a large propor- tion of the latter ; if too much rank manure is used, the bed may get too hot, and the flavour of the Seakale be spoiled. By covering a few pots occasionally, a supply can be easily kept up through winter. Blanching Outdoor Seakale. — For a late spring crop the Seakale may be simply blanched where grown, if kept per- fectly dark by pots, and a little covering over these. When Seakale is forced in the ground, a plantation will last many years, but the old stems should be cut down well under the ground before growth commences, and the young crowns thinned to the required number when large enough to handle. Where heaps of leaves are collected to form leaf-mould, fine succulent Seakale may be forced if some roots are planted in large flower pots about Christmas time and onwards, and placed in the leaves. The crowns must, of course, be covered with another large flower-pot, which must also be embedded in the leaves. The gentle warmth of the fermenting leaves will produce Seakale of the finest quality. The manure, loaves, and pots should be removed after the crop is gathered. Very good blanched Seakale may be obtained late by merely heap- ing fine cinder ashes or sand over the crowns of the plants. Arrange the materials in a cone-shape, gradually drawing the ashes upwards as the shoots grow, until the desired length is obtained. Duration of Seakale Plantation. — A plantation will last for very many years, but it is not wise to defer replant- ing after the fifth year. These remarks apply to beds, the plants of which are not lifted annually for forcing. Gathering the Crop. — In gathering Seakale for use, always cut the shoots with a half-inch base of the root attached. The shoots are fit to gather when six inches or so long. After gathering the shoots from plants covered by pots in the open, leave the t >p of the latter open to admit light. Exhibition Notes. — Seakale must be of very good quality to stand any chance of winning a prize. The shoots must be stout, well blanched, and from eight to ten inches 362 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. long. No flower-head must be visible. A good sample will be worth seven points : three for size and solidity, two for quality, and two for evenness of form. Twelve heads are generally shown on a dish, carpeted with fresh green parsley. Shallot. Botanical Name. — Allium ascalonioum. Foreign Names. — French, Echalote ; German, Schalotte; Dutch, Sjalot ; Danish, Skalottelog ; Italian, Scalogno ; Spanish, Chalote ; Portuguese, Echalota. Natural Order. — Liliaceae. Native Habitat. — Palestine. Duration. — Perennial. History. — This well-known vegetable was originally known as Eschalot, Scalion, and Shalot. As shown above, it originally came from the Holj' Land, near the City of Ascalon, where King Piichard I. defeated Saladin's army in 1192. The Shallot was known to the ancient Greeks, who obtained their supply from Palestine. The Romans, too, were equall}' acquainted with it, since Pliny, writing in the first century of the Christian Era, refers to Ascalonian Onions as being good for sauce. Shallots were first introduced into England in 1548, and from thence to the present time have been extensively grown in large and small gardens. In Worcester- shire, almost every cottager grows, or used to grow, quantities of Shallots, and disposes of them at remunerative prices for sauce making. Uses. — In private gardens, shallots are mainly grown for pickling purposes, also for flavouring soups, etc. Soil. — The Shallot requires a well-drained soil, and a sunny position. Heavy, cold soils are not suitable. It is a good POPULAR VEGETABLES. 36S plan to throw the soil intended for Shallots into ridges the previous autumn, so as to get it nice and friable. Manures. — Animal manures should not be used directly for Shallot culture. It is better to liberally manure for a previous crop. In case the soil should be badly infested with insects, give a dressing of quicklime before forking over. Superphosphate, at the rate of one and a-half ounces, and kainit, one ounce per square yard, may be applied before sowing, if specially good results are desired. After growth has begun, apply one ounce of nitrate of soda per square yard. Propagation. — The Shallot is increased by division of its off-sets, or cloves, also by seed. In the first case, the bulbs have merely to be divided into as many divisions as there are cloves, each clove being treated as a bulb, and planted accordingly. Shallots are easily reared from seed sown in drills eight inches apart in March. The seedlings should be thinned out to a similar distance apart, then good bulbs will be produced. Culture.— The end of February, or early in March, is the best time to plant. Make the soil fine and fairly firm, then press the cloves or the whole bulb, if not large, into the soil, so that the apex is just above the surface. The bulbs or cloves should be eight to nine inches apart, in rows a foot asunder. If worms are troublesome, put a pinch of cinder ashes over each bulb. The after culture consists of keeping the soil stirred, and about June removing the soil round the base of the bulbs, so as to expose them to the sun. Gathering the Crop. — Early in August, when the leaves turn yellow, pull up the bulbs, dry them thoroughly, then tie into ropes, and hang in a cool, dry place, or spread thinly in boxes, or suspend in nets in a similar place till required for use. Exhibition Notes. — If the foregoing instructions as to manuring and planting be attended to, it will not be difficult to select some first-rate bulbs for exhibition. In dry seasons 364 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. the only exception will be to mulch between the rows with decayed manure. Occasional applications of liquid manure, will also be beneficial. The two types of Shallots now in cultivation required to be exhibited and apipraised as regard points, differently. Thus, the cluster-bulbed or ordinary Shallot, should be exhibited whole, not separated into cloves ; whereas, the large brown-skinned sort, known as the Russian Shallot, should be shown in single bulbs only. Then as to their respective point values, the Cluster variety scores one for uniformit}' of cluster, one for uniformity of cloves, and one for size and firmness, or three in all. The Russian sort has also a point value of one for brightness of colour, another for size and firmness, and one for shape and form — three alto- gether. Skirret. Botanical Name. — Sium Sisarum. Foreign Names.— French, Chervis ; German, Zucker- wurzel ; Flemish, Suikerwortel ; Danish, Sukkerrod ; Italian, Sisaro ; Spanish, Cbirivia tudesca ; Portuguese, Cherivia. Natural Order. — Umbellifenc. Native Habitat. — China and Japan. Duration. — Perennial. History. — This vegetable was introduced into England in 1549, but does not appear to have been very generally grown, although so far back as 1082 a writer named Worlidge de- scribed it to be, when cooked, " the sweetest, whitest, and most pleasant of roots." Uses. — The thong-like roots, which are borne in clusters from a crown, are cooked and served in a similar way to salsafy. Culture.— Although a perennial the Skirret is best treated as an annual, i.e., sown in shallow drills a foot apart early in POPULAR VEGETABLES. 365 April, the plants afterwards being thinned to eight inches apart. The most suitable soil to grow Skirret in is a deep, sandy loam, free frcm recent manuring. Beyond hoeing occa- sionally between the rows to keep down weeds, no further cul- ture is needed till November, when lift, and store the roots as advised for Salsafy. Sorrel. Botanical Names. — Rumex Ace to a (Common Sorrel) ; ft. scutatus (French Sorrel) ; R. montauus (Mountain Sorrel). Foreign Names. — French, Oseille ; German, Saueramp- fer ; Dutch, Zuring ; Italian, Acetosa ; Spanish, Acedera ; Portuguese, Azedas. Natural Order. — Polygonacea;. Native Habitat. — Common Sorrel, Britain ; French Sorrel, France and Switzerland ; Mountain Sorrel, Furope. Duration . — Perennial. History. — Sorrel was a favourite herb with the ancient Romans, who both grew and used it extensively. It was also formerly held in high repute in this country. (Jerarde, writing in Henry's VIII.'s time, remarks that it was grown in most gardens. The Dutch and the French, too, have always culti- vated and used it largely ; in fact, it is one of the commonest vegetables met with in the French markets. Uses. — Sorrel is sometimes cooked and served like spinach, and also as an ingredient in soups and salads, by those who are fond of acid flavours. Tlie French Sorrel is the best kind to grow for cooking and eating like spinach. Culture. — The Sorrels are very hardy, and will thrive in almost any soil, though a light soil is generally best, provided it be fairly moist. Seeds may be sown in drills half an inch 366 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. deep and eight to twelve inches apart in March or April. When the seedlings are well up thin them out to three inches apart. Stir the soil occasionally with the hoe, and see the plants do not suffer for want of water. Each spring dress with rotten manure and fork it in. The -vigorous growers should be lifted the following March, and replanted eighteen inches apart each way. Any flower-stems which form should be removed. Lift, divide, and replant every third year. Gathering the Crop. — The leaves may be cut off near their base, or the best ones picked off here and there as required. Spinach. Botanical Name. — Spinacea oleracea. Foreign Names. — French, Epinard ; German, Spinat; Dutch, Spinaze ; Danish, Spinat ; Italian, Spinaccio ; Spanish, Espinaca ; Portuguese, Espinafre. Natural Order. — Chenopodiaceas. Native Habitat. — Northern Asia. Duration. — Annual. History. — Spinach has been grown in this country for upwards of four hundred years. The earliest mention of it occurs in "Turner's Herbal," published in 1568. He describes it as " an herb lately found, and not much in use." We also learn from another source, that the young leaves were used in salad, not only in Queen Elizabeth's time, but also in that of King Charles I. Uses. — The leaves, when thoroughly cleansed and boiled, make a delicious dish in winter or summer. Manures. — Naturally poor soils should have a liberal dressing of rotten manure dug in before sowing. As regards POPULAR VEGETABLES. 367 artificial manures, Peruvian guano applied at the rate of an ounce per square yard, when the seedlings appear, will give the growth a good fillip. Where animal manures are not available, apply one and a half pounds of superphosphate, and one pound of kainit per square rod before sowing in spring or August. Later, when the seedlings appear, apply one pound of nitrate of soda per square rod. Summer Spinach.— To obtain an early supply of this useful vegetable, the first sowing should be made as early in March as it is possible to get the ground sufficiently dry. The Round or Summer Spinach is the best variety to sow, and those who are willing to pay a little more for their seed will Rou.vd, or Summer Spinach. do well to purchase the improved variety called the Victoria Improved Round. This is a very fine variety, with broad, thick, dark green leaves, which remain fit for use quite ten days longer than the ordinary round. Although Spinach will grow in almost any soil or situation, it prefers a deep, rich soil, and a rather moist position in summer, and as it does not stand long before running up to flower, it may be sown between rows of peas with success. Here partial shade is 3C8 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. provided without injury being done to the other crop. To maintain a constant supply, a small quantity of seed should be sown about every fortnight. It is best sown in drills one inch deep, and a foot apart, but if the Victoria Improved be sown it is better to allow fifteen inches between the rows, in order to obtain good sized leaves, and the plants should be thinned to four or six inches apart as soon as they are large enough. To produce really good and succulent Spinach, watering must be duly attended to in dry weather, and whenever this is requisite, it should be done in the evening. Weeds must be kept down by the use of the hoe, and by hand- weeding. Winter Spinach. — A plot of ground should be set apart for a batch of Spinach for picking in very early spring. Most people appreciate this wholesome vegetable, and considering the little trouble necessary to grow it, a small breadth might be sown in most gardens, whether large or small. The third week in August is a capital time to sow the seed, and a piece of ground that has just been cleared of a crop will answer well, hence there is but little preparation needed, except raking over and drawing the drills ; these should be twelve or fourteen inches apart, and if the ground be dry, the chills should be watered before sowing the seed. Sow it thinly, and thin out when large enough, to four inches apart. By judicious thinning, the leaves will be large and thick, which is so essential to make a good dish of Spinach. It is immaterial what kind is sown at this time ; the old prickly Spinach was formerly considered the only variety suitable for winter, but happily the round-leaved varieties have been found to give better results. Some kind of protection is absolutely essential in cold districts, such as placing a thin layer of rough stable litter or bracken between the rows. If a good supply be desired, make a second sowing about the middle of September, and a third one early in October on a south border. Gathering the Crop. — Summer Spinach should be gathered when a fair size, cutting the plants off close to the soil. In gathering winter Spinach, pick the large leaves first POPULAR VEGETABLES. 389 Exhibition Notes. — Spinach is sometimes shown in a collection of vegetables. For this purpose, gather leaves that are large, thick, fresh and green, and stage them with their stalks in damp moss or water. The maximum point value for Spinach is four : two being for substance, and one each for freshness and colour. Tansy. Botanical Name. — Tanacetum vulgare. Foreign Names. — French, Tanaise ; German, Gemeiner Rainfam ; Danish, Reinfang ; Italian, Atanasia ; Spanish, Tanaceto. Natural Order. — Composite. Native Habitat. — Britain, etc. Duration. — Perennial. History.- A native herb; formerly much grown for medi- cinal and seasoning purposes. Uses. — The aromatic leaves are used for flavouring pud- dings. Culture. — Easily reared from seed sown in shallow drills a foot apart in spring ; or increased by divisions of the roots, planted a foot apart in March, in ordinary moist soil. Remove flower stems. Gathering the Crop. — Gather the young leaves as re- quired. 370 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Tarragon. Botanical Name. — Artemisia Dracunculus. Foreign Names. — French, Estragon ; German, Dragon, Dutch, Dragonkruid ; Danish, Estragon ; Italian, Dragon- cello ; Spanish, Estragon ; Portuguese, Estragao. Natural Order. — Composite®. Native Habitat. — Siberia. Duration. — Perennial. History. — According to Gerard, Tarragon was first grown in this country about 1548. It does not appear to have been cultivated here very much until well into the last century. Uses. — Tarragon is used in salads and soups ; the tops are pickled with gherkins, and also used for making Tarragon vinegar. Soil. — The soil is the most important feature in the culture of Tarragon. It shoidd be of a light, rich nature, well drained, so as not to be stagnant and cold in winter. A clay soil will not do ; the plants will surely die in winter. Where the soil is not well drained, make a special raised bed a foot above the ordinary surface, and mix plenty of well decayed manure and leaf-mould with it. Culture. — In March, draw drills three inches deep and fifteen inches apart, and plant the roots eight inches asunder in these. Mulch the surface of the bed with decayed manure, and then, in due course, there will be a good crop of shoots. Each autumn after the shoots are cut down, top-dress with manure. Form a new bed when the old plants begin to grow weakly. To have a supply of young shoots in winter, pull up young growths with roots attached in April or May, and plant them in shallow boxes of good soil. Keep moist, and in the shade till autumn, then place in gentle warmth, and young shoots will be forthcoming. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 371 Gathering the Crop. — Apart from the young shoots gathered as required, the stems may, at the end of summer, be cut off, tied in bunches, dried, rubbed into powder, and stored in bottles for winter use. Thyme. Botanical Names.— Thymus vulgaris (Garden Thyme), T. serphyllum citriodorus (Lemon Thyme). Foreign Names. — French, Thyrn ordinaire; German, Franzosischer Thymian ; Flemish, Thijmus ; Dutch, Tijm ; Danish, Thimian ; Italian, Timo ; Spanish, Tomillo ; Portu- guese, Tomilho. Natural Order. — Labiatse. Native Habitat. — Common Thyme, Spain and Italy; Lemon Thyme, Europe (Britain). Duration. — Perennial. History. — The Romans and Greeks were well acquainted with Thyme. The Common or Garden Thyme was first grown in this country about 1548. The Lemon Thyme is a variety of the Wild Thyme. Uses. — The aromatic shoots and leaves are used for season- ing purposes. Soil. — Thyme prefers a rather light and well-drained soil and a sunny position. It is not to be recommended for heavy soils. Have the land well dug and manured before planting. Culture. — Thyme may be raised from seed, cuttings, or division of the old plants. The seeds do best sown in shallow boxes of light soil in gentle warmth in March, but they may be sown on a bed of light soil on a sunny border outdoors in April. Cuttings may be dibbled in a few inches apart in a sandy soil outdoors in summer. The mould must be kept 372 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. moist and the cuttings shaded from sun by a covering of shrub brandies, or better still, mats supported on sticks. The easiest way of all, however, is to divide the old plants in April into as many portions as there are roots attached, and to plant these a foot apart each way. Seedlings will require to be transplanted when an inch or so high three inches apart each way in nursery-beds, finally planting out in their permanent quarters in the following April. The plants will need but little attention, except to keep clear of weeds. Lemon Thyme cannot be increased by seeds, only by cuttings and division, as advised for Common Thyme. Gathering the Crop. — Cut the shoots as required for use. Some of the shoots, the Lemon Thyme especially, may be gathered, dried, and bottled, as advised for Sage. Much more might be done in the bottling and drying of herbs than is at present cariied out. Perfumers use the Lemon Thyme for distilling for scenting perfumed soaps, and also in the form of powders for filling sachets. Tomato. Botanical Name. — Lycopersicuin esculentum. Foreign Names.— French, German, Spanish, and Portu- guese, Tomato; Dutch, Tomaat ; Italian, Porno d'oro. Natural Order. — Solanacese. Native Habitat. — Southern America. Duration. — Annual. History. — The Tomato, or Love-Apple, was first introduced into this country in the latter half of the sixteenth century, soon after the discovery of America. The Spaniards first in- troduced it into Europe, then it found its way into France and Italy, and from thence into England. A Flemish author' mentions the Tomato as growing, in his day (1583) in Con- POPULAR VEGETABLES. 373 tinental gardens. Parkinson, writing in 1656, refers to the Tomato as being grown for ornament and curiosity only. Gerard e in 1597, says, "Apples of love do growe in Spaine, Italie, and such hot countries, from whence myself have re- ceived seeds for my garden, where they do increase and prosper." It appears that the English folk did not take very kindly to the fruit till well into the last century, but it was a popular article of food with the wealthy Jews. There must, however, have been a fairly good demand for the fruit at the beginning of the last century, since Phillips, whose writings were published in 1821, tells us that Tomatoes were then to be seen in abundance at the principal vegetable markets. He mentions one market grower as having gathered one hundred and thirty- three bushels from outdoor plants, each plant averaging twenty to forty pounds, and some of the fruit measuring twelve inches in circumference. Great strides in the popularization and cultivation of the Tomato were made later on, and now one grower alone produces fruit by tons daily. In many cases market gardeners make Tomato growing their chief business. Moreover, in private gardens there is scarcely any greenhouse that does not contain a few Tomato plants. Uses. — The Tomato is grown for the sake of its fruit only, which is eaten raw, or in a cooked state. It is also largely used for making pickles and sauces. Soil. — The best soil in which to grow Tomatoes is a mixture of three parts sandy loam, and one part of decayed farmyard manure, to which may be added one five-inch potful of bone- meal, and a similar quantity of kainit or wood ashes, to every barrowload of soil. If it has been found by past experience that Tomatoes make too much stem and leaf in the soil the grower possesses, he should omit the farmyard manure, and use instead twice the quantity of bonemeal and kainit, for the last-named substances cause the plants to make hard, short- jointed stems; and also renders them more fruitful. Manures. — There is no doubt that the best results are obtained by the judicious use of artificial manures. An artificial mixture, to be of any value for Tomatoes, must obtain 374 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. a good proportion of nitrogen, potash, and phosphoric acid, in a form which readily becomes available to the plants. Nitrate of Tomato Sutton's Eclipse. soda sulphate of ammonia, and dried blood supplies nitrogen ; nitrate of potash supplies nitrogen and potash ; kainit POPULAR VEGETABLES. 375 muriate, and sulphate of potash supply potash ; superphosphate of lime supplies phosphoric acid ; and guano supplies nitrogen, phosphoric acid, and a little potash. The above manures all supply the plants with food in a form which they can readily assimilate. Two excellent artificial fertilizers for Tomatoes can be made by mixing together two parts of nitrate of soda, one part dried blood, four parts superphosphate of lime, and three parts kainit; or, half a part of nitrate of soda, one part guano, and one part superphosphate. Sulphate of ammonia can take the place of ihe nitrate of soda and dried blood, in the first mixture. Aj)ply one ounce in a gallon of water once a week, or the same weight to six plants in ten-inch pots. As soon as the first fruit has set and begun to swell, the plants should have weak applications of liquid manure given to them. By liquid manure, we do not mean the drainings from manure heaps, for although this may be a very useful substance for feeding many kinds of plants, it is not so suitable for Tomato growing as artificial fertilizers. Where these latter artificials cannot be bought, and plenty of liquid from a manure heap is at hand, use it by all means, for it will assist the plants to swell up their fruit, although not to the extent of the artificials. Culture in Greenhouses. — Tomatoes may be grown in pots or boxes, or in beds of soil in cold or heated sunny greenhouses. Sunshine is absolutely essential. The plants will grow in a shady house, but they will make far too luxuriant a growth, and yield too little fruit to be profitable. Heated structures with a temperature of 55 to 65 degrees are essential for growing Tomatoes between January and June, or during autumn and winter. Between May and October no artificial heat is needed. Rearing the Plants. — Sow the seeds from January onwards, in shallow boxes or pots, in a compost of four parts loam, one part leaf-mould, and one part silver sand, passed through a fine sieve. Drain the pots or boxes, and cover the drainage with a layer of sif tings, then with sifted soil pressed down firmly. Sow the seeds thinly, cover with a quarter of an inch of sifted soil, press down, water thoroughly, and cover 376 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. with a pane of glass. Place in a temperature of 70 to 75 degrees As soon as the seedlings show, remove the glass, and Tomato Culture in a Greeniiouse. when the first rough leaf is visible, transplant them singly in three-inch pots, using a compost of three parts loam, one part POPULAR VEGETABLES. 377 well-decayed mainuv, and a little sand. Put one crock in each pot, and an inch of sittings on top, then the compost. Pot moderately firm. Water thoroughly after potting, and keep in a temperature of 65 to 70 degrees, and not too far from the glass. Maintain a moist atmosphere, hut do not give water till the plants show tigns of growing. When the seedlings are three inches high, give a little air daily, and see the roots are kept moist A little later, remove the plants to a slightly lower temperature, or give more air, so as to prevent them getting drawn. Planting. — If it is decided to grow the plants in pots, ten or twelve inch sizes are the best. If in boxes, those ten inches square are best for single plants; or eighteen inches wide, two feet long, and nine inches deep, for four plants. If to be grown in beds on the floor or on the staging, the compost may be spread in a ridge eighteen inches wide, and a foot high, or placed in heaps of half a bushel to a bushel, each a foot apart. The pots should contain a couple of inches of drainage, and an inch of rough sittings on top. When to be grown in boxes, merely put a couple of inches of sittings in the bottom. Half till the pots or boxes with compost made quite firm, then turn out the plant, place it in the middle, and fill up with compost pressed down firmly. Leave an inch or so of space at the top for watering. If to be grown in beds, merely plant the seedlings a foot apart, pressing the compost well down, and leaving a saucer-like hollow around the stem, to receive water. The best results will be ensured by standing the pots or boxes on a layer of soil, so that the loots can eventually escape from the pot into this for : dd tional support. After planting, give a thorough watering. General Culture. — The planting being done, keep the house somewhat close for a day or so to give the plants a start. Take care not to give more water than is necessary at first, and avoid a too moist atmosphere. Maintain a temperature of 55 to 65 deg. When the plants are established ventilate when the temperature reaches 75 deg., and close again when it falls below that point. When growing freely supply liberally with water. Feeding should begin when the first lot of fruit is set. 378 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Training, etc. — Allow each plant to grow with one stem only. All side shoots which form should be promptly removed. In the case of pot plants, if early fruit be desired, pinch off the point of the main stem when the first bunch of fruit has set. For ordinary crops no stopping is necessary till the plants have filled their allotted space. Place a stake to each plant when a foot high, and keep the shoot secured to this until the roof is reached, then train the stem to wires or twine up the roof at a distance of ten inches from the glass, The early crops need assistance in fertilization. This may be accomplished by fixing a rabbit's tail to a stick and lightly passing this over the flowers, or by gently tapping each plant about mid-day with a padded stick. To ensure a good set the air must be kept warm, dry, and bracing. A damp, stuffy atmosphere not only retards pollination, but also conduces to disease and ill health. Culture in Frames. — This can be done in two ways. First, by using the lights only. In this case the Tomato jslants should be growing against a sunny wall, preferably with a southern aspect. After planting simply rear the frame-light on its side or end in a sloping position against the wall, tbus forming a lean-to roof. Until the plants are established, and thereafter during the prevalence of damp, chilly weather, it is best to close up the open ends formed by the sloping frame lights by hanging a sack, mat, etc., over the opening. This prevents a draught. In mild, warm weather, this is not needed, as Tomatoes like plenty of ventilation when the air is dry. If several frame-lights, or even window sashes, are at liberty, they can be placed end to end, so as to form a con- tinuous lean-to. In the second method we utilize the whole frame. Brick pits are equally useful, and require no excavating. In the first place, most frames are too shallow for Tomato culture, so they must either be raised on a false framework of sides and ends, or soil must be taken out till sufficient depth is obtained. The illustration (Fig. I.) shows the latter method. The depth, in the centre of the frame, from the closed light to the ground level, should not be less than three feet. Having taken out the soil, a bed for the plants to grow in must be POPULAR VEGETABLES. 379 formed at the bottom end or foot of the frame by placing a board across, so as to form a bed a foot wide. Fill this with good ordinary soil, to which a fourth part of decayed manure, or a sprinkling of some approved artificial, is added. Now form a rough trellis of laths, bean sticks, or wire, and fix across the frame nine inches below the closed light. Upon this train the Tomato plant, allowing the fruit bunches to hang down- wards. The plants may be planted nine inches apart, and should be grown on the single stem principle, i.e., no side shoots or branches are allowed. Also, if the leaves become G-'HOUHil % 'A Fiq.-I.'' Tomato Culture in Frames. unduly crowded, a few of the largest should be partially re- moved, say, shortened to half their length. This is better than entirely removing them. Planting may be commenced in May or June, and good stout seedlings should be secured, preferably in pots, one to a pot. The stronger the plants the sooner will they fruit, and the longer will the season be. After planting, give a good watering to settle the soil, and also keep the frame closed, except during ths hottest part of the day, for, say, a week. To prevent flagging, shade that part of the frame where the plants are. After they are seen to be established, ventilate freely on all possible occasions, but close the frame when wet or cold 380 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. In very hot weather, the light may be propped up at each corner, so allowing a free current of air. Never syringe or water overhead after they arc established, and do not water freely while a spell of cold, dull weather exists. Plenty of sun, and a dry atmosphere form the life of Tomatoes. When late autumn arrives, the foliage can be severely thinned out, to admit sun and light to the green fruit, and but little air will be needed, except at mil-day, to prevent a damp atmo- sphere. Fig. 2. Tomatoes against a Wall. Outdoor Culture. — Open-air culture of Tomatoes par- takes somewhat of a lottery, but those who go the right way to work draw more prizes than blanks. To further encourage beginners and would-be successful growers of open-air Toma- toes, we repeat that no particular compost is absolutely neces- sary for these plants. Anything that will grow potatoes satisfactorily is good enough for Tomatoes, and if want of soil is the only hindrance to the utilisation of blank sunny spaces on house or garden walls or fences, breaking up the hard soil, and a free addition of ordinary garden mould, ashes, partially POPULAR VEGETABLES. 381 decayed horse-droppings, or other manure, forming a bed one foot or less in depth, and the same in width, will meet the case. Those who have fresh loam at their command may well substitute some of this for the ordinary garden soil, especially if the site was occupied by Tomatoes during the season pre- vious. A little soot or a small quantity of artificial manure may accompany the fresh loam, but if the soil is not changed, partially decayed solid manure, a spit to a plant, is to be preferred to any chemical manures. The heaviest crops of potatoes are produced with the aid, solely or principally, of farmyard dung, dug in at the rate of one ton or good load to the square rod of ground, and the same kind of preparation is desirable for Tomatoes. If the plants are raised in heat, and further kept in a warm position till well established in three-inch or larger pots, they ought to be hardened off in a cold frame, or where they can be protected on cold nights for about ten days prior to planting out. Tomato plants are actually hardier than potato haulm, but ours is such an uncertain climate that it is not wise to run risks. At the same time, an early start is most desirable, a gain of a fortnight or so sometimes meaning all the difference between failure and success. Against sunny 'walls, house fronts, and fences, Tomato plants may be put out about the third week in May, in mild seasons. Although some catalogues and circulars still give a represen- tation of a remarkably heavily-cropped, four-branched Tomato plant, this no longer misleads other than the merest tyro. There never was such a plant ; at any rate, not in this country. The quickest way to have a heavy crop of fruit is to put out single plants twelve to fifteen inches apart, and to confine these to a single stem, but the plants will branch naturally, and we have laid in, and fruited side growths much as shown in Fig. 2. Side shoots may also be reserved and trained down obliquely, or horizontally where there is room, under imperfectly-furnished wall trees. In the same diagram, a two-branched plant is also shown, but if, owing to a scarcity of plants, we had not enough to well cover available space with them, the plants would be topped, or have their tops taken off above the third or fourth leaf a week or ten days before planting out, rather than defer topping until after they 382 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. have become established in their new quarters, thereby saving valuable time. These topped plants should be put out two feet or so apart, and an early opportunity taken for selecting and training the two best-placed shoots. In the illustration, the plants are shown secured to the wall by means of cloth shreds and wall nails, but if these are objectionable, or likely to damage good stone or brickwork, stakes may be placed against it, and the plants secured to these. (See Fig. 3). Never turn plants out of pots while in a dry state at the roots. If the old ball of soil and roots be dry when buried, Tomatoes Trained to Stakes. or allowed to become so during the first three weeks after planting, the plants will make a bad start. Apply water to the roots a few hours before planting, plant firmly, packing the soil well round the roots, and water often enough to keep the ground moist without saturating the surrounding soil. Dryness at the roots during the early stages of growth causes the loss of the early flowers— a serious drawback when we consider how short the average British summer really is. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 383 Gathering the Crop. — Indoors the fruit should be gathered when ripe, but outdoors, it is not always possible to get many ripe fruits before autumn arrives, and in this case, they may be gathered partially ripe, or green, and placed on the staging or shelves of a sunny greenhouse, or in a sunny window, where they will ripen in a week or so. Exhibition Notes. — The selection of fruit should be made directly after the flowers have set, leaving not more than two on a bunch, and the plants ought not to be overtaxed when confined to pots or boxes. Tomatoes will keep in good condition for some days when cut, if they are laid out on some soft material in a dry, warm room. The fruit should be of medium size, have a clear, unbroken skin, small eyes, solid flesh, and be fully, yet not over ripe. Their point value is seven — three for condition, two for size and colour, and two for general evenness of form. Sis fruits constitute a dish. Tropoeolum. Botanical Name. — Tropoeolum tuberosum, Foreign Names. — Flemish, Knoll-Kapucien ; French Capucine tubereuse ; German, Peruanische Knollen-Kresse ; Spanish, Capuchina tuberculosa. Natural Order. — Gcraniaceaa. Native Habitat. — Peru. Duration. — Perennial. History. — This species is better known in English gardens as a half hardy flowering climber than as a vegetable. It was first introduced into this country in 1836. It produces freely pear- shaped yellow and red tubers, which, in summer, yield slender shoots, furnished with yellow and scarlet flowers. In Bolivia these tubers, known as " Ysauo," are much esteemed 384 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. as an article of food. In England, only those who have resided in South America care for this novel vegetable. Properly cooked, however, they are said to possess a nice flavour, and as the tubers multiply rapidly, we include a reference to them in this work in case any reader should desire to experiment with their culture as a vegetable. Uses. — The Bolivians first boil the tubers, then allow them to become frozen, in which condition they are eaten. If boiled in a fresh state like potatoes the flavour is said not to be so Tubeks of Tkofceolom toberosum. good. An ingenious cook might probably discover a suitable way of cooking the tubers. Culture.— The tubers should be planted about three inches deep and eighteen inches apart in any sunny spot, in ordinary soil, during the end of April or early in May. When the shoots appear place some feathery sticks for them to cling to. Beyond keeping free from weeds and watering in dry weather, no special attention will be needed. Gathering the Crop. — Lift the tubers in November and store them in sand in a cool, dry place. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 385 Turnip. Botanical Name. — Brassica Rapa. Foreign Names. — French, Navet ; German, Herbst- Rube ; Dutch, Raap ; Danish, Roe ; Italian, Navone ; Spanish and Portuguese, Nabo. Natural Order. — Cruciferce. Native Habitat. — Europe (including Britain). Duration. — Biennial. History. — The cultivated Turnip is an improved form of the wild turnip of our cornfields. It was well known to the ancient Greeks and Romans, and appears to also have been grown in Holland and Flanders prior to being cultivated here. Anyway, the Flemings grew it extensively in their fields in the fifteenth century. The cultivated Turnip found its way into England from Hollaud about 1550. Gerarde, writing later in the same century, says, " Turnips were grown in the then village of Hackney, and brought to the Cross in Cheapside (London) by women to be sold. The Turnip also appears to have been largely used by the Welsh as an article of food. Uses. — The fleshy root of the Turnip forms an important article of food, while the young tops or sprouts, called Turnip Greens, also make a popular dish iu early spring. Soil. — The best flavoured Turnips are grown on ordinary light or sandy soil. Where it is very heavy, deep trenching and the liberal use of decayed vegetable matter, road grit, and fish manure to lighten and drain it, must be resorted to to get it in proper condition for Turnip culture. Ridging such soils in winter will also greatly improve them. Manures. — On sandy and light soils, dig in a liberal dressing of decayed manure — cow or pig for preference. A dressing of quicklime at the rate of three to four bushels per o 386 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. square rod, applied in February, will be of the greatest benefit to the soil and to the crop, for the Turnip is a lover of lime. Woodashes and burnt refuse will also be of very great service to the crop. In the way of artificial manure, two and a half pounds of superphosphate, two pounds of guano, a quarter of a pound of sulphate of ammonia, and half a pound of kainit to each square rod, just before sowing, will give a fillip to the growth of the young plants, and greatly aid in producing a fine crop of roots. A dressing of bonemeal at the time of sowing is also a good fertilizer. After thinning the plants, water the bed with a solution of iron sulphate, one ounce to a gallon of water. It must be clearly borne in mind that an ample supply of decayed manure in the soil is especially desirable in the case of summer crops grown on light soils. Culture. — To maintain a good supply, sowings should be made in February, March, April, May, June, and July. The first one should be made on a south border, and the others in the open. Choose fine weather for sowings, and take care to get the soil in fine tilth. Some growers sow their Turnips broad- cast, but it is much better, in our opinion, to sow them in drills about twelve to fifteen inches apart ; or eighteen to twenty inches for the large growers. The drills should be very shallow — from half an inch to an inch deep. In hot weather, and on light soils, it is a good plan to draw drills six inches wide and three inches deep, put a couple of inches of rotten manure, burnt refuse, and a little bonemeal in the bottom, half an inch of soil on top, then sow the seeds, and cover with a half inch of mould. Keep a sharp eye on the weather, and if it should be dry, give the soil frequent water- ings in the evening, afterwards dusting lime or soot over the surface to keep ofF the fly. When the rough leaf forms, thin out to four or six inches apart. Gathering the Crop. — The early crops may be lifted as required. The late or winter ones may be treated likewise, unless severe weather is likely to set in, when lift a few, remove their leaves, and store them in sand in a cool place. Some of the winter crop may be left in the ground to produce "greens" or "tops" for spring use. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 387 Forcing Turnips in Frames.— The Turnip is one of the least easy vegetables to force. If grown in the open in the ordinary way it is rarely obtainable in good condition for the table until June. Seed may be sown from the begin- ning till the end of March. It will germinate, and the plants grow too ; but before bulbing they have a provoking habit of " bolting," which is a professional term applied to plants that flower prematurely. Once a turnip " bolts " no bulb ever forms, hence the failure of the early "crops and the necessity of waiting until genial weather encourages proper development* Early Milan Turnip. which is never before April. The Turnip, however, is a most acceptable and much sought after vegetable early in the season, so much so, indeed, that many grow them in frames. We have sown seed at the end of February, had the Turnips ready the first week in April, and continued a supply till the open ground ones were ready. The best way of forcing them is in frames. Wherever o 2 388 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. fresh stable manure is available, a quantity of it should l.e made into a hotbed to receive a one or two-light frame. Make the hotbed from two to three feet in depth, and tread it very hard down. This retains the heat. Put the frame en, then a layer of soil to the depth of nine inches. This should consist of loam or ordinary garden soil, with one quarter of well-decayed manure and a little soot mixed in. Tread the soil very firm, too, as the bulbs form and swell so much better and faster on a firm than a loose soil. Make the sur- face level, sow the seed thinly and evenly, broadcast, and then cover with a thin layer of sand. Put the light on, but in a few days the young plants will appear, when they should have ventilation, more or less, according to the weather. Give them a good deal of air when it is fine, as this will keep them robust, and the warm bed will be sure to cause rapid growth. Little or no water will be required, as there will be plenty of moisture in the manure. When the first rough leaves appear thin the plants out regularly to two inches apart. This will give ample room for the first bulbs to swell sufficiently large for the table, and when they are drawn out the others will increase. We have had a dish daily from a two-light frame for three weeks when regularly and not too widely thinned. It is surprising the quantity produced on a few square yards of space. B3 7 sowing every fortnight a constant succession is kept up. Turnips for Exhibition. — Practically no special care is required to grow good turnips for exhibition. The main point is to see that the soil is properly enriched with manure before sowing, so that a quick growth is encouraged. This object can be attained by sowing the seeds in drills contain- ing rotten manure and bone-meal, as advised on p. 386. It is advisable to thin out early, so that the seedlings do not become cramped for want of room. Another important point is, in the event of drj T weather occurring, to see that the soil is kept thoroughly moist by frequent watering. Nice succu- lent roots will then be obtained that will not fail to secure the premier award. An occasional dusting of wood ashes and soot will greatly benefit the crop in its earlier stages of growth. The soot, moreover, will help to ward off possible attacks by the POPULAR VEGETABLES. 389 Turnip Flea. Frequent hoeing, too, between trie rows will aerate the soil, keep down weeds, harass soil pests, and promote rapid growth. Snowball Turnip. Exhibition Notes. — Turnips for exhibition should be of medium size, with small tap roots, clear skin, and a crisp, juicy flesh. Crooked, cankered, or over coarse tough roots are useless. The point value of good samples is five two re- presenting solidity, two uniformity and one for size. Six Turnips constitute a dish. Vegetable Marrow. Botanical Name.— Cucurbito Pepo ovifera. Foreign Names. — French, Courges ; German, Speise- Ktirbiss ; Dutch, Pompoen ; Danish, Graskar ; Italian, Zucca; Spanish, Calabaza ; Portuguese, Gabaca. 390 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Natural Order. — Cucurbitacese. Native Habitat. — Persia. Duration. — Annual. History. — But little is known of the early history of this vegetable, beyond some facts given in a paper published in the " Transactions of the Royal Horticultural Society," in 1816. The writer, Mr. Joseph Sabine, says : — " I have been able to obtain but very imperfect accounts of the origin of this particular gourd. It was certainly new in this country-within a few years, and I think the most probable account of the many I have heard of its introduction, is that the first seeds were brought here in one of our East India ships, and came probably from Persia, where, I am told, it is known, and called Cicader." Uses. — The fruit in a young state, when cooked, and served with melted butter, constitutes a delicious vegetable. Ripe fruits are also cut into slices and used in soups. Some housewives also make an excellent jam from the ripe fruits. Soils and Manures. — Almost any soil will suit the growth of Vegetable Marrows. As to manures, those advised for cucumbers, are equally suitable for this vegetable. How to Grow Marrows. — There are two methods practised of growing Vegetable Marrows, besides that of training them upright to trellis work. The most common plan is to collect into a neat heap all the decayed vegetable and roadside refuse, and to put the Marrow plants on the top. This is a capital method, provided abundance of moisture can be given at the roots, as, naturally, more water will be required on such an elevated position than would be the case if the plants were growing on the flat. The second plan is to dig out a trench two feet deep and four feet long, for three plants, filling it three-parts full with manure, and replacing the natural soil on the manure to a depth that will allow a slight trench to be formed. Where water is scarce this is a good method to adopt. Long Green-Striped Marrow. 392 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Sowing the Seeds. — Sow the seed early in April, or if some protection can be given the plants for a time when put out, such as a hand-light or a temporary glass covering of any kind, the seed may be sown a fortnight earlier, so that fruit can be gathered for an early show, if required. Sow the seeds singly in three-inch pots in sandy soil, covering the pots with a hand-light or a piece of glass, providing a cold frame or greenhouse is not available. Directly the pots are full of roots, shift the plants into larger sizes, using a rich compost so as to encourage a stout, healthy growth. Planting. — When safety from frost is assured either by the advanced season or by temporary protection, the plants should be put out before the roots become too much pot- bound, as they are liable to receive a check then, which should be avoided, as freedom of growth, right away from the start, is an absolute gain in procuring an early and successive crop. If a bushel of better soil can be given to each plant when put out, such as old potting mould, decayed leaves, horse manure, and woodashes, more freedom in growth is assured at the start. Training. — As growth proceeds the strongest shoots should be pinched to equalize the flow of sap, until an equal balance of shoots is obtained in all the plants, when they may be allowed to ramble away at will. It sometimes happens, though, that the plants at the start throw out so many shoots as to become overcrowded. These should be thinned, allowing space for the stronger to develop fully, as the crop, even in Vegetable Marrows, is guided by the condition of the foliage ; one fully developed mature leaf is worth half a dozen rendered weak by overcrowding. It sometimes happens that the first fruit formed will turn yellow and refuse to swell. If the growth is thick, remove the weaker shoots, admitting more sunlight and air to the plants, and give the roots a thorough soaking with water or liquid manure, if obtainable. If the shoots are several feet long, and very strong, pinch out the point of such, to cheek the growth slightly. Continue to supply moisture freely to the roots, and sprinkle the leaves in the evening after a hot day. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 393 Culture for Exhibition. — Fruit for exhibition should be carefully selected a few weeks before a show, and directly it is formed. Remove any leaves or shoots that are likely to come in contact with it, as the least scratch, when the fruit is small, will develop into a large patch by the time the full size is attained. Vegetable Marrows are invariably exhibited in pairs, and should be as near alike in shape and size as possible. They are frequently staged far too old, and thus lose points in adjudication. The test of age in a Vegetable Long White Marrow. Marrow is by piercing the skin with the thumb nail near the stalk ; if the skin is too hard to admit of ready penetration, the fruit is too old. If one fruit grows faster than the other, cut the forward one several days before the show, as with the stalk standing in water in a cool place it will keep fresh fully a week. Five points are generally accorded to Exhibition Marrows : two for size and form, two for tenderness, and one for uniformity. 39+ VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Watercress. Botanical Name. — Nasturtium officinale. Foreign Names. — French, Cresson de fontaine ; German, Brunnen Krcsse ; Dutch, Brond Karsen ; Italian, Crescione de fontana ; Spanish, Berro ; Portuguese, Agroia. Natural Order. — G'ruciferse. Native Habitat. — Europe (including Britain). Duration. — Perennial. History. — Watercress has been cultivated from time im- memorial. The ancient Greeks esteemed it highly as a food, and also as a medicine. They entertained the idea that Watercress would put life into dull and stupid persons, hence their proverb, " Eat Cress and learn more wit." Zenophon advised the Persians to feed their children with it, in order to increase their stature. Pliny recommended Watercress to be eaten with vinegar as a remedy for those with deranged minds. The ancient Dutch folk, too, ate Watercress largely. In our own country Gerarde says, "the eating of Watercresses restores the wonted bloom to the cheeks of young ladies," and Lord Bacon remarks, " that Watercress is an herb that while young is friendly to life." In our own time the cultivation of Watercress for market is a most important branch of the market gardening industry. Uses. — The uses of this excellent salad vegetable are so well known that it is unnecessary to say anything on the subject here. Ways to Grow Watercress. — Watercress may be grown in running streams, in trenches or sunk beds in the garden, or in shallow pans or pots in cold greenhouses or frames. Culture in Trenches. — Watercress may be easily grown in shallow trenches in the garden without a stream of water. POPULAR VEGETABLES. 395 The best time to begin is in April. Simply dig out a trench two feet wide and a foot deep in a sunny part of the garden. In this put about six inches of rotten manure, then three inches of ordinary mould. Sow the seeds evenly, and rake them into the mould by passing a fine-toothed rake along. As soon as this is done, give the trench a thorough watering, and afterwards see that the soil is never allowed to get dry. If a sowing be made in April the Cress will bo fit to cut in June, and if another sowing be made in August, a succession may be insured during the year. Culture in Cold Frames, etc. — A regular supply of Watercress may be obtained by following the subjoined in- structions : — In the first place, seed may be sown in ordinary seed pans, and when large enough to handle, some large pans should be filled with loam and mortar rubbish, and the seedlings planted therein. When the latter commence to grow they should be watered freely, and the pans placed in saucers or other water-holding vessels to about half-way up to the rim of the pan. They will then grow freely, and will soon produce a crop fit for use. The pans may stand in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse, and the water be emptied out occasionally and fresh given. When the plants have grown considerably the tops may be out off and placed in a pan the same as cuttings, which soon make good plants. Three or four crops may be taken off before they are thrown away. Immediately after the first cutting, manure water should be applied, but while the young tops are growing clear water should be given, so that they are not touched by the manure water. Another Plan. — It is our practice to grow a batch of Watercre-s in pots or pans each year by the following method, which is extremely simple. Fresh cuttings are procured from a river or streamlet (if this does not exist in the neighbour- bourhood, then a few bunches may be bought from the shop), these are cut immediately below a joint, and inserted two inches apart in any light, rich sandy soil, in efficiently-drained pots or pans. We use six-inch pots. A thorough watering is given through a rosed can, and the pots are placed in a frame 39fi VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. having a coalash bottom. They must be rather heavily shaded from the sun, and humidity should be abundant. This will be best maintained by shading and keeping close until it is seen that the cuttings are well rooted, when syringing may cease and the plants be placed in the open in a shaded position, such as under a north wall or garden fence. The night dews will benefit the Watercress considerably, and as quick growth is essential to secure tender, mild- flavoured heads, means should be adopted to encourage free growth by occasional applications of liquid manure, given carefully, so that the growths are not watered with it. Soot water will assist growth, and will give colour to the foliage. The points of the shoots should be pinched out when well established, and before they become drawn ; this will ensure stocky plants. During the winter, the plants should be taken into the green- house or heated pit, but at no time must they be subjected to much heat, all that is necessary is to exclude frost. The Watercress is an aquatic plant, therefore, it will be obvious that abundant supplies of water are needed at all times. Culture in Streams. — The most important matter in connection with the successful cultivation of a first-rate sample of Watercress, is to have a good supply of clear, running water, free from the numberless insects and small animals that infest streams. Stagnant water, or a feeble flow only, will not be conducive to success, and we certainly do not advise anyone to embark in Watercress culture under such unfavourable conditions. The beds should be four feet wide, with alleys or paths at least two feet between. They should slope very gently, so as to cause a gentle flow of water through. It is also a good plan to have dams at intervals for the water to flow over. The depth of the beds may be from six to ten inches, according to the vigour of the plants. We prefer a clay soil, but many persons grow equally good Cress on a sandy one. On the bottom, there should be at least a couple of inches of decent soil to start the plants in. Plant- ing should be carried out twice a year — in May and June, for gathering in September and through the winter, and in October and November for gathering in summer. The shoots should be planted six inches apart each way, and afterwards POPULAR VEGETABLES. 397 covered with water to the depth of one and a-half inches. When the shoots reach the surface, allow the water to rise three inches above them. During winter, we allow the water to rise six inches above those planted in autumn. Prior to planting, the muddy refuse should always be cleared out, and fresh mould added. Where insects abound, this precaution is specially necessary, otherwise, in time, they would become too numerous and disfigure the Cress, rendering it unfit for use. Gathering the Crop. — The May-planted beds should be ready for gathering in early autumn, and the others in March or April. Gather the shoots once a week, and always use a knife for this purpose. The Brown leaved Cress is the best. <8> <3> SELECT LIST OF VEGETABLES. In the following list we have endeavoured to name the varieties of each kind of vegetable that have proved themselves really worthy of cultivation for home supplies and exhibition. Those specially suitable for the latter purpose are prefixed by an asterisk. This list has been submitted to several first-rate vegetable specialists, so that the selections may be relied upon as thoroughly trustworthy. Artichokes (Globe). *Green Globe. — Large globular heads. The best for general culture. Purple Globe. — A variety with purplish tinted scales. Artichokes (Jerusalem). Pi'rple or Ordinary. — Large, irregular shaped tubers. *Sutton's White. — A white skinned variety, with shallow eyes and well-formed tubers. Superior to the old Purple. Asparagus. *Connover's Colossal. — A large headed variety of American origin. Late Giant Purple Argenbeu.il. — A very fine headed variety. Good for general culture. *Reading Giant. — A vigorous grower and deliciously flavoured sort. Best for general culture. Basil. Bush Green. — The hardiest and best kind. Sweet Green. — A taller and less hardy sort. SELECT LIST OF VEGETABLES. 399 Beans (Broad). Dwarf Green Gem, Beck's. — A prolific, early dwarf sort. Suited for earliest crops or small gardens. Early Long-pod. — A good early variety. Early Mazagan. — Suitable for autumn sowing. Dwarf. Wonderful Long-pod, Johnson's. — A very productive variety. One of the best for allotments. *Leviathan. — A variety bearing immense pods, twelve to fifteen inches long. *Improved Broad Windsor. — A capital variety for general culture. Maincrop. Large pods. *Taylor's Windsor. — A prolific variety. One of the best for maincrop. Seville Long-pod. — An early variety bearing long pods. Monstrous Spanish Long-pod, Ban's. — A productive, large- podded, delicately flavoured, and early Broad Bean. Beans (French). *Canadian Wonder, Improved. — A fine long-podded, pro- ductive variety. Good for garden culture or forcing. *Negro Long-podded. — Prolific, long-podded, and early. Ne Plus Ultra. — An enormous cropper, early bearer, and good flavoured variety. Suitable for outdoor or indoor culture. Sion House. — A first-rate early sort, forces well. Good cropper. Wytb.es' Improved Mohawk. —An improved form of Mohawk or Six Weeks ; good for forcing. Golden Wax, Barr's. — Pod Dwarf Butter Bean. — A marvel- lous cropper, early bearer, and good flavoured sort. *Green Haricot, Barr's. — Useful for yielding Haricot Beans for winter use. Good bearer. New Stringless Butter Bean, Webb's. — Yields pods free from strings. Excellent cropper. Beans (Runner). *Giant White, Webb's. — A first-rate variety, bearing pods a foot long Very heavy cropper. •■'Jubilee, Carter's. — A large podded variety and an enor- mous cropper. 100 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Best of All, Sutton's. — An extremely prolific variety, yield- ing pods upwards of fifteen inches long. *Prize Winner, Sutton's. — A grand exhibition variety, and heavy bearer of long pods. See page 343. Painted Lady — A good old sort for general culture, Scarlet Runner. — The old variety. Good for general crop- ping. Tall Sugar Bean, Sutton's. — A new type of Runner Bean, bearing heavy crops of sweet, succulent, long pods. The latter are stringless. Mont D'Or Wax-pod. — An early, productive, stringless podded Butter Bean, the pods of which should be cooked whole. Beans (Climbing French). Earliest of All. — An early, delicately flavoured, produc- tive, and almost stringless variety. "'Tender and True. — A prolific bearer of long, straight pods. An early cropper. Veitch's Climbing. — A promising variety, bears freely, and yields pods of excellent flavour. Beet. Dell's Crimson. — Roots of medium size, and rich crimson colour. Habit compact. *Nutting's Dwarf Red. — Roots of medium size, dark red in colour, and good quality. *Pragnell's Exhibition. — Roots of medium size, rich, deep crimson colour, very handsome shape, and exquisite flavour. Cheltenham Green Top. — Roots, medium; flesh, red; foliage, green ; flavour good. ♦Improved Globe. — A globular turnip-rooted variety, early cropper, and red fleshed. Cood for shallow soils Market Favourite, Sutton's. — Roots large ; colour, rich red. A first-rate sort for general culture. See page 134. Long Red, Carter's. — Roots, long ; flesh, red ; flavour, rich. See page 136. Egyptian Turnip-Rooted. — A good sort for shallow soils. Silver or Seakale Beet. — Grown for its midribs only. SELECT LIST OF VEGETABLES. 401 Borecole or Kale. Asparagus or Buda Kale. — A variety yielding succulent side shoots in spi'ing, which may be cooked and eaten like asparagus. A first-rate sort. Cottager's Kale. — A hardy, useful variety for yielding abundance of side shoots in spring. Good for allotments and small gardens. Ragged Jack. — A green, cut-leaved variety, yielding a heavy crop of delicious side shoots in spring. Very hardy. Improved Hearting Kale. — A dwarf, curled greendeaved Kale, with white ribs and firm hearts like those of a cab- bage. An excellent sort. *Victoria Kale, Dobbie's. — A fine dwarf variety with curled, crisp leaves and small ribs. Stands the winter well and sprouts freely after the heads are cut. Very hardy. See page 140. *Dwarf Green-Curled Scotch Kale. — Exceptionally hardy, dwarf, and good flavoured. Has curled, crisp, foliage. *Tall Green-Curled Scotch Kale. — Also very hardy, resists the severest frosts, and keeps up a supply of greens till late in spring. *Variegated Kale. — A variety yielding curled foliage of many tints, ranging from white to shades of rose and pink. Useful for garnishing. The sprouts may also be cooked in spring. Broccoli. *Walcheren. — A good sort for cutting in autumn. Vcitch's Self-Protecting. — An autumn or early winter sort. Heads firm, white, compact, and well protected by leaves. Early Purple Cape. — A fine flavoured variety. Autumn. *Michaelmas White. — Large. Heads well protected. Ex- cellent quality. Autumn. Winter White, Snow's. — Very hardy. Heads, medium size and well protected. Good winter variety. *Leamington. — A first-rate sort for cutting in March or April. Heads well protected. See page 148. *Cattell's Eclipse. — One of the best late varieties, coming in for use in April and May. 402 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Late Queen, Sutton's —A dwarf, compact, thoroughly hardy kind, coming into use in May and June. Heads large and exquisitely flavoured. *Chappell's Large Cream.— A large variety, thoroughly hardy, coming into use during winter. See page 150, erroneously described as Chappell's Late Queen. Cottager's Exhibit of Vegetables. Purple Sprouting or Asparagus. — A very hardy Broccoli, yielding a heavy crop of delicious sprouts in spring Very hardy. Good for small gardens. See page 146. Green Sprouting. — A prolific sprouting variety, bearing sprouts of delicate flavour in spring. Bouquet, Sutton's. — A variety having a central head sur- rounded by several smaller heads, varying from five to twelve in all. A late and very hardy Broccoli. SELECT LIST OF VEGETABLES. 403 Brussels Sprouts. *Aigburth. — A large, hardy productive variety. Scryrnger's Giant. — A dwarf variety bearing large firm sprouts. A good sort for general culture. ""Sutton's Exhibition. — A very fine variety for general culture and exhibition. Sprouts large, firm, and freely borne. See page 153. The Wroxton. — Dwarf, sturdy variety, bearing large solid sprouts. Cabbages. *Ellam's Early Dwarf. — Medium-sized heads, compact, aud excellent flavour. Good for autumn sowing. *Earliest of All. — Heads large, tender, crisp, and com- pact. Habit, dwarf. Suitable for spring sowing. See page 157. Early Dwarf York. — A fine early variety with firm, conical heads. Sow in spring. *AU-Huart, Sutton's. — A moderate-sized Cabbage, matures quickly, and produces large hearts of delicate flavour. Sow in spring. Wheeler's Imperial. — A good variety for autumn sowing. Enfield Market. — Medium sized, quick maturing, and good all-round sort for autumn sowing. Early Offenham. — A popular market-garden Cabbage for autumn sowing. *Emperor, Webb's. — Early, dwarf and hardy. Hearts, solid and large. Very fine sort. *Flower of Spring. — A first-rate variety for spring or autumn sowing. Heads, medium size and good flavour. Little Pixie. — A small, early sort, specially suited for small gardens. Green Rosette Colewort. — A very hardy kind, suitable for the same purpose as the last. *Large Blood-Red. — Good for pickling. * Dwarf Blood-Red. — Very compact and dwarf. Should be sown in spring to cut in autumn. Capsicum Spanish Mammoth. — Large red pods, mild in flavour 404 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Long Yellow. — Yellow pods. Golden Dawn. — Yellow pods, mild. Prince of Wales. — Brilliant yellow pods. Cherry-Shaped Chili. — Small erect pods. Cardoons. Spanish. — Large-ribbed, smooth. French. — Prickly tours. Carrots. Early Nantes. — Root cylindrical, blunt, and coreless. Adapted for culture in frames or borders in good soil. An early sort. *Early Short Horn. — Root, short, globular, and reddish yellow when young. Suitable for forcing, or warm border culture. Early. Early Gem. — Koots thick, blunt, almost coreless; very tender and sweet. Good sort for forcing or early crop- ping outdoors. See page 175. *New Red Intermediate. — Roots thick, tapering, hand- somely shaped ; fine for exhibition. Skin very clear, smooth, and bright red. The best variety for general cultivation. See page 172. Altrincham. — Root, large, tapering ; surface wrinkled ; flesh, reddish orange. Good main crop variety. Long Red Surrey. — Roots, long and tapering; flesh, reddish ; core, yellow. Good for main crop. *Sutton's Favourite. — Roots, stump shaped, even in shape, beautiful in colour, and excellent in quality. A fine sort for general garden culture. See page 170. Cauliflowers. Veitch's Autumn Giant. — A splendid variety. Heads very large, pure white. May be sown in early spring for autumn cutting, or in August for spring cutting. See page 177. Early London. — A fine hardy variety much grown for London markets. Good sort for general culture. Heads, compact and white. SELECT LIST OF VEGETABLES. 405 First Crop, Sutton's. — A compact, quick-maturing variety. Valuable for first crop. Celery. Major Clarke's Red. — A first-rate old variety, growing three feet high, and having a solid heart. *Standard Bearer. A dwarfed form of the above. Colour, red. Very hardy. *Sulham Prize Pink. — Medium grower, stout, crisp, solid heart, pink colour. A first-rate sort for general use. Leicester Red. — A well-known red Celery of medium size and good flavour. Sandringham White. — A dwarf variety, very early, with a solid, crisp heart. *Wright's Giant Grove. — A large-growing white variety, with a solid heart. Must not be fed too liberally with manure. *Webb's Solid White. — The best white Celery for general culture or exhibition. Habit, dwarf; heart, solid and crisp. Celeriac. Barr's Apple-shaped. Chervil. Curled. — Best for flavouring purposes. Tuberous-rooted. — Grown for its parsnip-like roots. Chicory. Common or Barbe de Capucin. — Best variety for general culture. Witloof. — A variety with large midribs. When blanched is like a cos lettuce. Corn Salad. Broad-leaved Italian. — The best for general culture. 406 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Cress. Common. — Good for general use. Curled. — Leaves prettily curled. Australian Golden Cress. — Leaves tender, flavour piquant. American or Winter. — Resembles watercress, nice flavour. Cucumbers (Frame). Tender and True. — Handsome fruits without scarcely any neck. *Lockie's Perfection. — A prolific, black-spined variety. *Rollinson's Telegraph. — A fine variety for summer or winter culture. An immense cropper. See page 201. Rochford's Market Favourite. — A prolific cropper, medium- sized fruits. *Duke of Edinburgh, Daniel's. — A first-rate cropper and white-spined variety. *Carter's Model. — A handsome-fruited sort, free-bearer, with a short neck. Good for exhibition or general culture. Cucumbers (Ridge). Stockwood Long Ridge. — Hardy and very prolific. Long Prickly. — Hardy, free-bearing. Good for pickling. Short Prickly. — Hardy, abundant bearer. Gherkin. — Useful for pickling. Japanese Climbing.— May be grown outdoors, the shoots being trained up poles or over sticks. Dandelion. French. — Large-leaved. Egg Plants. Early Purple. — Purple-fruited, early. New York Purple. — Purple-fruited. Scarlet. — Scarlet-fruited. White.— White-fruited. IIOKSKB/DISH (Cot; IT LEAK I A AKMORACEA). 4 £0O(.l sample of well-grown loote, grown as advised on p. 230. SELECT LIST OF VEGETABLES. 407 Endive. *Broad-leaved Batavian. — Leaves broad, with ragged edges. A popular variety. *Exquisite Curled. — Leaves very elegantly curled. Fine Green Curled. — Very finely laciniated leaves. One of the best. White Curled. — Very suitable for cutting young. *Moss Curled. — A small sort, with curled, mossy foliage. Fennel. Common or Sweet. — The kind generally grown in gardens. Garlic. — No special varieties. Good King Henry Ordinary kind. Gourds. *Mammoth Pumpkin. — This gourd is roundish in shape, ribbed, and yellow in colour when ripe. Fruit of it grown in England has attained a weight of two hundred and eight-five pounds. Fruit keeps well after being ripe. Good for pies. Crown Gourd or Custard Marrow. — Fruit small, flat, and scalloped at the edges. Suitable to cut and cook in a young state like marrows. Spanish Gourd. — Fruit of medium size, flat, and green. Keeps well. Good for pies. Herbs. The only kinds to be grown of these are mentioned in the articles dealing with their culture. Hop. — Any kind. Horseradish.— Ordinary kind only. Indian Corn. Cory.— Medium-sized cobs, borne early, and sweet in flavour. Crosby Early.— Very early. Sweet and medium-sized cobs. 408 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Leeks. Ayton Castle. — Stem long and stout. Good. *Lyon. — Very large, blanches well. Good exhibition kind. Musselburgh. — Hardy, stems long and thick. Good for general culture. See page 248. *Prize-Taker. — Long, thick stems, pure white, flavour mild. Excellent for exhibition. Lettuce (Cabbage). Tom Thumb. — Small, compact, solid heart. All-the-Year-Round. — Hardy, compact kind. Good for sum- mer or winter Lettuce. Hammersmith Hardy Green. — A splendid hardy winter Lettuce. Early Paris Market. — A good forcing kind, also valuable for early sowing outdoors. *Daniels' Continuity. — Deep-coloured and close-hearted com- pact kind. Lasts in good condition a long time. •Commodore Nutt. — A dark green, compact, crisp-hearted kind. Early and good for general culture. See page 251. *Sutton's Standwell. — Hearts compact and crisp. Stands well in dry seasons. *Webb's Summerhill. — A large, handsome, compact growing Lettuce. Hearts crisp and delicately flavoured. Does not run to seed quickly. A really good Lettuce. Lettuce (Cos). Brown or Bath Black Seeded Cos. — Very hardy ; large crisp hearts. Good winter kind. Hick's Hardy White. — Hardy, large, winter or summer Lettuce. One of the best. *Paris Green. — Lai'ge, self-folding, compact and crisp-hearted variety. Very good. Paris White. — Large, crisp variety. Good for general use. *Sutton's Mammoth White. — Very large, crisp and tender- hearted, self-folding variety. Good for exhibition. Magnum Bonum or Florence. — Large and hardy. See page 253. SELECT LIST OF VEGETABLES. 409 Mustard. White. — The usual kind. Brown. — Small-leaved variety, remaining longer fit for use. New Zealand Spinach. — Ordinary kind. Onions. *Ailsa Craig. — A splendid large, globular- shaped Onion. Single bulbs will attain a weight of over three pounds. The best exhibition variety. Sow soring or autumn. See page 277. A Good Crop of Onions. Bedfordshire Champion. A globular-shaped Onion. Bulbs large. Good keeper. First rate for general use. Sow in spring. ♦Button's Al. — A grand, large Onion, flattish globular, brown skin. Excellent keeper. Good for exhibition or general use. Sow spring or autumn. See page 281. 110 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. ••'ltousham Park Hero. — A handsome, semi flat, brown-skinned Onion. Fine exhibition variety. Sow in spring or autumn. James' Long Keeping. — Large, pear-shaped, brown-skinned Onion. Good keeper. Sow in spring or autumn. •■'Veitch's Main Crop. — Large, flattish, pale straw-coloured bulb ; a first-rate main crop variety, and a good keeper. Sow in spring. *Magnum Bonum. — A splendid large-bulbed variety; weighs upwards of two pounds each. Fine exhibition variety, and a good keeper. Sow in spring or autumn. Improved Reading. — A fine main crop variety, and an extra good keeper. Sow in spring. ^Cranston's Excelsior. — A popular exhibition variety. Bulbs, globular and pale straw colour. Sow in spring or autumn. See page 275. *fmproved Giant Rocca Tripoli, — Bulbs globular, large, light brown. A good keeper. Sow in autumn. Giant Lemon Rocca Tripoli, — Very large. Colour paler than last named. Sow in autumn. See page 273. White Lisbon, — Large, globular, thick-necked, white skinned variety. Largely grown by market gardeners for supply- ing Onions for spring salads. Sow in autumn. Sec page 283. Queen. — A small, round, white-bulbed variety. Suitable for pickling. Sow in spring and autumn. Silver Skinned. — Bulbs small and roundish, white. Adapted for pickling. Veitch's Main-Crop. — Bulbs large, flat, and straw-coloured. Excellent keeper. One of the Spanish type of onions. Sow in spring. Tree or Egyptian. — A kind which bears bulbils at the top of its flower stems. These are useful for pickling. Potato. — An Onion which bears irregularly-shaped, brown- skinned bulbs beneath the surface of the soil after the manner of potato tubers. A prolific sort. Welsh. — A species of Onion which does not form bulbs, but long, tapering roots. There are white and red varieties- The young shoots are used for spring salads. Orache. — Ordinary kind. SELECT LIST OF VEGETABLES. 411 Parsley. Myatt's Garnishing. — Large variety with finely cut leaves. Triple Curled. — Hardy, prettily curled leaves. Hamburgh. — Grown for its roots. Moss Curled. — Very much curled. Parsnips. *Student. — Medium-sized roots of handsome shape. Flavour excellent. *Hollow Crown — Long, handsome roots, with hollow crowns. Good sort for general use. Sutton's Intermediate. — A short-rooted variety, specially suitable for shallow soils. Splendid flavour. *Tender and True. — An exceedingly good flavoured Par- snip, with a beautifully clear skin. Good for exhibi- tion or general use. See page 289. Peas. Chelsea Gem. — Pods, curved, small. Seeds, wrinkled. Flavour excellent. Height, fifteen inches. First early. The Sherwood. — Pods, small, straight. Seeds, wrinkled. Flavour, sweet. Good cropper. Height, eighteen inches. First early. Harbinger, Sutton's. — Pods, single, straight, of medium size. Seeds, wrinkled. Flavour, very fine. Excellent cropper. Height fifteen inches. First early. Ameer. — Pods, large, curved. Seeds, round. Flavour, good. Heavy cropper. Height, four feet. First early. Bountiful, Sutton's. — Pods, fairly large, single, straight. Seeds, round, Flavour, excellent. Height, four feet. Heavy cropper. First early. Lightning, Carter's. — Pods, medium-sized. Seeds, round. Flavour, good. Height, two and a-half feet. Free crop- per. First early. Daisy, Carter's. — Pods, large, straight. Seeds, wrinkled. Flavour, excellent. Height, two feet. Free cropper. Second early. Centenary, Sutton's. — Pods borne in pairs, large and straight. Seeds, wrinkled. Flavour, excellent. Height, five feet. Heavy cropper. Second early. 412 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. *Duke of Albanj'. — Pods borne in pairs, large and straight. Seeds, wrinkled. Flavour, first-rate. Height, five feet. Fine exhibition Pea. Very heavy cropper. Second early. *Stratagem. — Pods large, straight, and borne in pairs. Seeds wrinkled. Flavour and quality, excellent. First- rate exhibition Pea. Height, two and a-half feet. Heavy cropper. Main crop. ^Masterpiece, Sutton's. — Pods very long and large, usually borne in pairs. Seeds large, nine to twelve in a pod. Flavour, exquisite. Habit, robust. Height, three to four feet. Grand exhibition Pea. Main crop. Seepage 299. Ringleader, Sutton's Improved. — Pods medium, straight. Seeds round and white. Flavour good. Height, four feet. Free cropper. First early. See page 307. Prince of Peas, Sutton's. — Pods large, straight. Seeds wrinkled. Habit, robust. Flavour, excellent. Height, five feet. Very productive. Second early. See page 297. Maincrop Marrowfat, Sutton's. — Pods large, borne in pairs. Seeds, round. Habit, vigorous. Flavour, very good. Height, three feet. Heavy cropper. Main crop. See page 295. *Alderman. — Pods large, long, and straight. Seeds, wrinkled. Fine flavour. Height, five feet. Grand exhibition Pea. Very free cropper. Main crop. Autocrat, Veitch's. — Pods large, single. Seeds, wrinkled. Flavour, very good. Height, five feet. Heavy cropper. Late. *Edwin Beckett. — Pods large, straight, and borne in pairs. Seeds, wrinkled. Flavour, delicious. Height, five and a half feet. Good exhibition Pea. Very heavy cropper. Main crop. Quite Content.— Pods very large. Flavour excellent. Very heavy cropper. Grand exhibition pea. Main crop. Height, 5ft. to 6ft. See page 306. Essex Wonder. — Wrinkled marrowfat. Pods very large. Flavour delicious. Strong grower and free bearer. One of the finest exhibition peas. Height, 5ft. to 6ft. Main crop. Sutton's Peerless Marrowfat Pea. A mainorop exhibition and garden variety growing 8 ft. high. SELECT LIST OF VEGETABLES. 413 *Sharpe's Queen.— Pods large, straight, borne in pairs. Seeds, wrinkled. Flavour, deliriously sweet. Height three feet. Good exhibition Pea. Heavy cropper. Main crop. Ne Plus Ultra.— Pods large, plump, and borne in pairs. heeds, wrinkled. Flavour, first rate. Height, six to ^ seven feet. Prolific bearer. Late. The Gladstone.— Pods long, straight, and borne in pairs. Seeds, wrinkled. Flavour, very good. Height, five feet. Heavy cropper. Late. See page 301. Late Queen.— Pods large, handsome. Seeds, wrinkled. Flavour, rich. Height, three and a-half feet. Good ^ cropper, bears up to November. Late. Edible Podded Sugar Pea.— Bears large, broad pods of very fine flavour. The pods are cooked whole. Height, six feet. Potatoes. Myatt's Ash-leaf. — Haulm, strong. Flowers, coloured. Good first early. Heavy cropper. White Kidney. May Queen, Sutton's. — Haulm, strong. Flowers, coloured. Very early; suitable for frame, pot, or border culture. Free cropper. White Kidney. *Snowdrop. — Haulm, strong. A good first early. Suitable for exhibition or general use. Heavy cropper. Cooks well. White Kidney. See page 319. Harbinger. — Dwarf haulm, medium-sized tubers, and good alike for pot, frame, or border culture. Free cropper. Good cooker. First Early White Round. *Early Puritan. — Haulm, moderate; tubers large. Flowers, white. Suitable for exhibition. Cooks well. Early Oval Round. "Victor, Sharpe's. — Haulm, dwarf. Tubers, moderate. Flowers, coloured. Suitable for pots, frames, or borders. Good exhibition kind. Cooks well. Early White Round. ^British Queen. — Haulm, strong. Flowers, white. Tubers, large. A heavy cropper and good cooker. Suitable for exhibition or general use. Second Early White Kidney. See page 315. 414 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. ^Supreme, Sutton's.— Haulrn, fairly strong. Tubers, large and pebble-shaped. Adapted for exhibition or general use. Excellent cooker, free cropper, and disease resister. Second Early White Kidney. *Rcading Eusset. — Haulm, strong. Flowers, white. Tubers, large and hand-.ome in form. Good cropper. Suitable for exhibition and general use. Good cooker. Second Early Red Round. * Windsor Castle. — Haulm, strong. Flowers, white. Tubers, large. A handsome Potato for exhibition or general use. Heavy cropper and disease resister. Second Early White Flatfish Round. Charles Fidler. — Haulm, strong. Flowers, white. Tubers, large. A splendid cropper. A good sort for general use. Cooks well. Late White Kidney. *Vicar of Laleham. —Haulm, vigorous. Tubers, large, round and purple skinned. Heavy cropper and good cooker. Fine for exhibition. Main crop Round. See page 310. *Satisfaction, Sutton's. — Haulm, robust. Tubers, large, pebble-shaped, white. Heavy cropper. Good exhibition Potato. Excellent cropper. Main crop. See page 313. Abundance. — Haulm, moderate. Flowers, white. Tubers, flatfish, round. Immense cropper. Good flavour. Ex- hibition or general use. Main crop. Factor. — Haulm, strong. Flowers, mauve. Tubers, oval, large. Enormous cropper. Main crop. One of the best for exhibition or general use. Up-to-Date. — Haulm,- vigorous. Flowers, mauve. Tubers, oval or kidney shape, large. Heavy cropper. Main crop. An old but very popular variety for general use. The Bruce. — Haulm, vigorous. Flowers, mauve. Tubers, oval or kidney shaped, white. Heavy cropper. Main crop. A first-rate table potato. *Duchess of Cornwall. — Haulm, dwarf. Flowers, mauve. Tubers, round or pebble-shaped; white. An enormous cropper. Second early. Good for exhibition or general SELECT LIST OF VEGETABLES. 415 Ninetyfold. — Haulm, moderate. Flowers, white. Tubers, kidney-shaped; white. First early. Heavy cropper. Good for general use. *King Edward VII. — Haulm, vigorous. Tubers, large, inclined to be coarse Heavy cropper. Eyes deep, tinged with pink. Good cooker. Exhibition or general use. Second Early Kidney or Pebble-shaped. *Sir John Llewellyn. — Haulm, robust. Tubers, large, hand- some in shape, with shallow eyes. Excellent cooker and disease resistor. A fine exhibition variety. Heavy cropper. First Early White Kidney. See page 325. *Discovery, Sutton's. — Haulm, vigorous. Tubers, large. A splendid cropper and disease resister. Suitable for ex- King Edwabd VII. Potato. Good oooker Late White hibition or general use. Pebble-shaped Round. *Goldfinder, Webb. — Haulm, robust. Flowers, coloured. Tubers, large and handsome in shape. A splendid exhibi- tion variety. Heavy cropper A really first-class Potato. Late Fkttish White Round. Purslane. — Ordinary kind. Quinoa. — Ordinary kind. Radishes. Earliest of All. — Good for early forcing. Turnip-rooted White and Red Forcing, Sutton's. — Two very good turnip- rooted kinds. See pages 331, 333. 416 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. French Breakfast. — Roots oval-shaped, crimson with a white tip. One of the sweetest and best for early forcing. Wood's Early Frame. — Roots long, scarlet, crisp, and good flavoured. Good sort for frames. See page 320. The Sutton Radish. — A long variety with a crimson skin and white flesh. A good exhibition and general variety. French Breakfast Radish. Rhubarb. Champagne, Hawke's. — The best early sort for forcing. Stems crimson. See page 339. Linnseus. — A good sort for forcing, or for maincrop out- doors. Stems red. Mitchell's Royal Albert. — An early sort. Stems large and red. *Hobday's Giant. — An exceedingly robust sort, yielding stalks 4ft. long. Excellent for forcing or outdoor cul- ture. Fine for exhibition. Victoria. — A strong-growing, crimson-stemmed variety. Good maincrop kind. See page 337. Salsafy. Mammoth.— A fine variety. See page 351. Scorzonera. Russian Giant.— A very good kind. See page 356. Seakale. Purple Tipped or Common.— Very good. *Lily White.— A better variety than the preceding one. SELECT LIST OF VEGETABLES. 417 Savoys. *Earliest of All, Barr's. — The earliest variety grown. Dwarf and compact. One of the best. Tom Thumb. — Hearts very small and compact. Adapted for small gardens. Tom Tjjumb Savoy. *Dwarf Green Curled. — A medium-sized variety. A good one for general use. Drumhead. — A large variety, suitable for large-sized gardens. See page 354. Shallots. *Common. — Bulbs, long, oval, or conical, and reddish yellow The most generally grown variety. *Russian. — Bulbs, round, and larger than the preceding kind. 418 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Spinach. Flanders. — Leaves, large ; a hardy kind. Round or Summer. — The kind usually grown for summer use. See page 367. Winter or Prickly Seeded. — Best for autumn sowing. Tropoeolums. Major. — Tall Nasturtium. Minor. — Dwarf Nasturtium. Tuberosum. — See page 383. Turnips. Early Stone or Six Weeks. — An early variety suitable for summer and autumn use. *Early Snowball. — One of the most delicious flavoured white Turnips. Suitable for exhibition or general use. Very early variet} r . *Extra Early Milan. — A very sweet, crisp, compact, early Turnip. A good sort for frame or early border culture. Roots, white with a purple top. Chirk Castle Black Stone. — A mild-flavoured black-skinned, winter Turnip Best for winter use. *Red Globe Veitch's. — A hardy, crimson-skinned Turnip of excellent flavour. First-rate sort for exhibition and for general use. Good for autumn sowing. All the Year Round.— Pale yellow flesh, green top. Deli- cate in flavoui, and remains solid when others are past. Should not be sown too early. Tomatoes. *Winter Beauty, Sutton's. — Fruit, large, round, fairly smooth, and deep in colour. Capital grower and heavy cropper. Excellent variety for winter or summer culture. Does well outdoors also. *Ham Green Favourite. — Fruit, flatfish round, smooth and deep scarlet. Heavy cropper. Does well indoors or out. *Early Ruby. — Fruit, smooth or corrugated, deep red, and of medium size. Habit, dwarf. Free setter. Does well outside or under glass. SELECT LIST OF VEGETABLES. 419 Sunrise (Carter's). — A splendid sort for outdoor culture. Fruits round, smooth. Colour, scarlet. Flavour, very good. Free cropper. Good indoor variety also. Holmes' Supreme. — Fiuit, medium-sized, smooth and deep red. Habit, sturdy. Free setter. Good sort for indoor or outdoor culture. The Comet. — Fruit of medium size, round, smooth, deep scarlet. Habit, moderate. Free setter. Good for outdoor or indoor culture. *Frogmore Selected. — Fruit, large, round, corrugated, scarlet. Habit, vigorous. Free setter. Good for indoor or outdoor culture. Vegetable Marrows. Long White. — Fruit, white. Free bearer. One of the best. Long Green Striped.— Fruit, large, striped with white and green. Good flavour. Typioal-Sizbd Vegetable Marrows for Cookixg. Pen-y-Byd. — Fruit, globular, creamy-white. Vine, short- jointed. Very prolific. Excellent sort for small gardens. Bush or Cluster. — Fruit, dark green. Habit, compact and bushy. Very prolific. Hibberd's Prolific. — Fruit, egg-shaped. Very prolific. 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(A CI s d H 4) > CIO o Cardoon Carrot Cauliflower Celery Celeriac Chanioniile Chervil Chicory Chinese Artichoke Chives Ciary Coriander Corn Salad Cress, Garden CD & 6 Cucumber (Ridge) Dandelion Egg Plant Endive Fennel Garlic Good King Henry Gourds Hop Horehound £' N * ■+= d p- u S - ~4 » . lO ■ OiOOOO r^t^oi^co o r^ o oo o P S £ o CO NiOWMiONM ■<* O O C-ICOCOG^CO biiOlOWKJ o en r*J rifl ^ J4 P M r^ a> o K 4) &3 * ^ m ^ CO CD ^ B? fe 2 h SS^^^S^^® S-* "* 3 £ o ,|S Is .5 u o » o £> . ^ p. 53 .^S^l^-^ ' ^ ^ a rt a o ° S 3.2-2 g^£-8£ ° o^5 > 1 o +i S < be cd o £ M ^ ^ hj S S S S S fe Iz; -2 O O Pk Ph Pm pm ph O^Pi P3 p? fn CD o >> WW Li** 3 o v ■8 C rt « 4) u > "a 3 3 - - - - Hci .-Hi -^-M-Hm?! ■-<■*■-«-* -WH-+HC1-+* lOt-OOX>COOt— t-t-COt--* l>OJMOO B«w£S •^C^COlMCOfOiO'M'-H^C'l'^CN « ■* O O » o Si 44 £ J* u ^4 "JlJ fc«i,^ OJ3 in 3 - . s -3s .i;*s« H S» ... -HrtrH»:iH»00^1«HrtrHDlHO'# 3000 H 13 j< s iO^-*CltJI^MWOW^O^ -# C-1 -# 00 ■<* 0)rt^rH— l—lrf-HCq^-HOlrH rH - H -H ■S-S- a or^r^t^r~r~ a&> aSte ago <&m age ipunctat:i) ; 1,0 dispar; c, Septempunctata ; d, larva. markably short space of time. They live for about three weeks in the larval stage, then turn to pupaj, and in three weeks emerge as perfect beetles, ready to lay their clusters of buff-coloured eggs underneath the leaves. The normal size of the three kinds of Ladybird Beetles is shown in the short lines beside the perfect specimens. Testacella Slug. — This belongs to a small family, having but three species, recorded from Britain, Europe, and the Canary Islands. They form a connecting link between what in England are known respectively as slugs and snails, the former being without visible shells, the latter having shells sufficiently capacious for the animal to retire into. In the SOME GARDEN FRIENDS. 431 species under notice the shell is very small, ear-shaped, and situated at the hinder extremity of the creature, and covering the pulmonary cavity. The Testacella slugs are subterranean in their habits, and feed on earthworms, which they follow into their holes, their shells protecting their rear from injury. They feed during the day, coming from the holes at night in quest of more prey. When the weather is very dry, and during winter, they form a kind of cocoon in the ground by exuding a mucus from their bodies, and thus rest secure till a change in weather. Unfortunately, these slugs are not plentiful in this country, being almost limited to the southern parts of England. T. haliotoides is the kind most common in this country, and is about three inches long, broadest at the tail end, of a dirty yellow colour, with brown specks ; but is sometimes pale yellow or black. The shell is about a quarter of an inch long and greyish in colour. Fig. 6. Tiger Beetle (Cicindela oampestris). Tiger Beetle (Cicindela oampestris). — We figure one of four species of Tiger beetles (Fig. 6), which are to be met with on all light and sandy soils. These beetles and their 432 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. larvse feed extensively upon all kinds of grubs and small insects. They may be observed running about on the sur- face of the soil, or flying about from spot to spot in search of food. They should never under any circumstances be inter- fered with, but allowed to multiply as freely as possible. Violet Ground Beetle (Carabus violaceus) is an example of a numerous family of beetles that may be found running about the surface of the soil in gardens. These beetles and their larvse are, like the Devil's Coach-Horse beetle, sworn enemies of grubs, etc., that infest gardens, as they feed to a Fig. 7. Ground Beetle (Carabus). a, Beetle ; b, larva. very great extent upon them. Wherever these active beetles are seen running about, take care that none of them are destroyed, as they help to reduce the number of injurious grubs in the garden. Fig. 7 represents one of the species which is common in gardens. ^^ <"§£ ^ <■§£ "fe WHEN TO SOW, PLANT, ETC. A Year's Work in the Vegetable Garden. In the following pages we give a brief summary of the principal sowings and plantings that have to be clone in each month of the year. The references to pages indicate where fuller details may be found. January. Asparagus. — Top-dress beds with seaweed. Place roots on a hotbed, or in boxes, etc., under glass for forcing for early use. See page 128. Beans (Kidney or French). — Sow in a temperature of 65 to 75 degrees for forcing. See page 242. Beans (Broad). — Sow early sorts in sheltered spots. Sow also in turves in heat. See page 143. Read paragraph " Exhibition Notes " on page 145. Beet. — Sow seeds in heat to yield plants for growing on hotbed. See page 135 Carrots. — Sow Shorthorn Carrots on warm border last week in the month. See page 171. Seeds may also be sown on hotbeds. See page 174. Chicory. — Place roots in heat as advised on page 193. Cucumbers. — Sow seeds for early crop as advised on page 200. Plant out seedlings reared last month. Temperature by ni°-ht should be 65 to 75 degrees, and 75 to 80 degrees by day 434 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Dandelion. — Place a further supply of roots in heat to force. See page 212. Egg Plant. — Sow seeds in heat. See page 214. Lettuce. — Sow seeds in heat to ensure plants for planting out in May. See page 252. Mint. — Roots may be lifted and planted in boxes, then placed in a temperature of 65 to 75 degrees to afford shoots for early use. See page 258. Mushrooms. — Beds may be made outdoors during the month. See page 262. Beds may also be made in sheds, cellars, or mushroom house. See page 260. Mustard and Cress. — Sow in heat. See page 206. Onions. — Sow seeds in heat for planting out in March or April. See page 278. Seeds of the Queen type may be sown on a south border outdoors. Peas. — Sow early Peas in pots in heat. See page 298. A sowing may also be made on a south border outdoors. Peas to be grown entirely in pots should be sown as advised on page 307. Potatoes. — Place early seed tubers in boxes to sprout as advised on page 317. Plant early potatoes on hotbeds and in pots. See page 323. Radishes. — Make + he first sowing on a south border outdoors. See page 330. Sow seeds on a hotbed early in the month. See page 332 Rhubarb. — Place more crowns in heat, or a warm cellar, to ensure an early crop. Cover outdoor crowns with pots and manure for forcing in the open. See page 338. Seakale. — Lift roots and place in heat for forcing. See page 360. Pots and manure may be placed over crowns in the open. See page 360. WHEN TO SOW, PLANT, ETC. 435 Tomatoes. — Sow seeds ior early crop under glass. See page 376. General Work. — If the weather be frosty, wheel manure and compost on to vacant land. In mild weather get any arrears of trenching for root crops done. Make new paths and repair garden edgings. Hoe between growing crops. Bun cabbage stumps and rough weeds, and save the ashes in a dry place for seed sowing. Draining, where necessar3 r , may now be done. Consult your seed lists, and send off orders for what you require. Look over onions in the store room, and remove decayed ones. Potatoes in store should be turned over, am long sprouts removed. See that cauliflowers and lettuces ii cold frames have plenty of air in fine weather. Protect with litter or mats in very severe weather. Prepare manure for hotbeds. February. Artichokes 'Jerusalem). — Tubers may be planted any time during the month. See page 236. Asparagus. — Introduce more roots into hotbeds, or boxes, in heat, to force for early use. See page 1 28. Beans (Broad). — Sow Long-pod and Windsor Beans in favourable weather. See page 143. Beans (Kidney or French). — Sow in heat as advised last mouth. Broccoli. — Sow in heat any time this month to ensure early autumn crop. See page 147. Carrots. — Sow Shorthorn Carrots early part of the month on a warm border. See page 171. Sow also on hotbeds. See page 174. Cauliflowers. — Sow seeds in heat early in the month for yielding a summer crop. See page 178. 430 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Chervil. — Sow seeds late in the month on a warm border. See page 191. Cucumbers. — Sow seeds for succession, and plant out those reared last month. See page 190, etc. Temperature as advised for last month. Water carefully. Egg Plant. — Sow seeds in heat. See page 214. Garlic. — Plant now on warm soils. See page 219. Horseradish. — Plant roots in specially prepared soil as advised on page 231. Leeks. — Sow seed in heat for an early crop. See page 247. Lettuce. — Sow seeds in heat as advised last month. Mushrooms. — Make beds for succession under cover, and spawn those made last month. See page 260. Mustard and Cress.— Sow in heat. See page 266. Onions. — Sow for early supplies in warm borders. Tn warm districts Onions sown in September may be transplanted now to form large bulbs. See page 276. Parsley. — Sow on a south border as advised on page 286. Parsnips. — Sow seeds as advised on page 290. See also " Culture for Exhibition," page 291. Peas. — Sow early Peas outdoors. See page 298. Second early kinds may also be sown towards end of month. See page 300. Sow exhibition Peas in heat the second week in the month. See page 305. Peas for pot culture should be sown. See page 307. Potatoes. — Place seed Potatoes in shallow boxes, and expose to light as advised on page 317. Plant early kinds in warm borders early in the month, and again in the open at end of the month. See page 320. Propagate Potatoes by seed and by cuttings. See page 314. Plant early kinds on hotbeds and in pots. See page 323. WHEN TO SOW, PLANT, ETC. 437 Radishes. — Sow on a warm border outdoors. See page 330. Sow seeds on a hotbed as advised on page 332. Rhubarb. — Plant new beds any time this month. See page 337. Cover crowns with pots and manure for ensuring a succession of blanched Rhubarb. See page 338. Seakale. — Cover crowns in the open ground with pots and manure. See page 360. New plantations may also be made. See page 359. Hoots may still be placed in heat for affording a succession of forced Kale. Shallots. — Plant out as advised on page 363. Tomatoes. — Sow seeds for succcssional crops under glass. See page 376. Plant out January-sown seedlings. Turnips. — Make the frst sowing outdoors for May use. See page 386. General Work. — Any digging or trenching should be completed in fine weather. Never dig land whilst wet. Read the section on " Soils." Early peas and broad beans may need protection in frosty weather. Dress land deficient in lime with quicklime. See section on "Manures." In fine weather get plots intended for onions, carrots, etc., well cultivated by forking over. Where the land is stony icmove the biggest ones. Box edgings may be planted. Earth up and stake early peas. Fork in gas-lime applied in autumn. Protect early radishes, if weather be severe. March. American Cress. — Sow this month to give a supply of Cress in early summer. See page 120. Angelica. — Sow seeds as advised on page 120. Transplant seedlings sown last March. See page 120. 438 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Asparagus. — In the case of beds grown on the flat give a, dressing of decayed manure and lightly fork in. See page 127. Basil. — Sow seeds in heat as advised on page 131. Beans (Broad). — Sow Long-pod and Windsor Beans for succession. See page 143. Earth up those six inches high. Beans (Kidney). — Seeds maybe sown in pots in ordinary greenhouses to get a supply of pods in May. See p. 342. Beet. — Sow turnip-rooted Beet on a warm border, alsc Silver Beet to yield leaves for use in autumn. Borage. — Sow seeds any time this month. See page 138. Brussels Sprouts. — Sow seeds for early crop in heat. See page 152. Cabbages. — Sow in heat early in the month, or outdoors at end of the month to ensure Cabbage for summer use. Sow seeds of Bed Cabbage outdoors. Capsicum. — Sow seeds in a heated house, or on a hotbed. See page 164. Cardoon. — Sow seeds in heat. See page 166. Carrots. — Sow main crop kinds from middle of month onwards. See page 171. Sow also on hotbeds. See page 174. Celeriac. — Sow seeds in heat or on hotbed early in the month. See page 181. Celery. — Sow seeds early in the month in heat or on a hot- bed. See page 184. Chamomile. — Propagate by division of the roots as advised on page 190. Chinese Artichoke. — Lift the remainder of the crop and replant towards end of the month. See page 195. Chervil. — Sow seeds as advised on page 191. WHEN TO SOW, PLANT, ETC. 439 Chives. — Make fresh plantations early in the month as advised on page 196. Cucumbers. — Make a further sowing to plant out in April. Plant out those reared in February. See page 190, etc. Maintain a night temperature of 65 to 75 degrees, and a day one of 75 to 85 degrees. Syringe morning and evening. Dill. — Sow seeds as advised on page 213. Fennel. — Sow seeds, and also increase stock by division of the roots. Plant new roots. See page 218. Garlic. — Plant as advised on page 219. Hop. — Procure and plant roots as advised on page 228. Kohl Rabi. — Sow seeds outdoors as advised on page 244. Lettuce. — Sow seeds outdoors. See page 252. Plant out seedlings wintered in cold frames. Leeks. — Sow seeds on a warm border early in the month. See page 248. Marjoram. — Sow seeds in gentle heat to yield seedlings for planting out in May. Propagate Pot and Winter Mar- joram by division of the plants. See page 256. Mint. — Make new beds of Spearmint, Peppermint, and Pennyroyal as advised on pages 258 and 259. Mushrooms. — Successional beds may be made in cellars, greenhouses, or mushroom house. See page 260. Mustard and Cress. — Sow in ordinary greenhouse tem- perature. See page 266. New Zealand Spinach. — Sow seeds in heat early in the month for planting out in May. See page 271. Onions. — Sow main crop early in the month on light, warm soils : later on cold heavy ones. See page 274. Pick- ling Onions may also be sown. Thin out autumn-sown Onions 440 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. and replant as advised on page 276. Plant Tree Onions. See page 281. Orache. — Sow seeds as advised on page 284. Parsley. — Sow seeds of Hamburg Parsley as advised on page 287, Parsnips. — These may still be sown, if unable to sow as advised last mouth. Potatoes. — Plant second early sorts early in the month. See page 320. Peas. — Plant towards end of month those reared in pots in heat. See page 299. Sow second early Peas at beginning of month and main crops from middle to end. See page 300. Quinoa. — Sow seeds as advised for Orache on page 284. Radishes. — Sow on asparagus beds, between peas, or in a special bed. See page 330. Rhubarb. — Sow seeds in heat, harden off in April, and plant out in May. See page 336. Rocambole. — Plant cloves early in the month. See page 340. Rosemary. — Sow seeds on a sunny border outdoors. See page 341. Plant out rooted slips. Sage. — Sow seeds on a sunny border outdoors. See page 349. Savory. — Divide and replant winter Savory. See page 353. Savoys. — Sow outdoors to yield plants for autumn cutting. See page 335. Seakale. — Sow seeds outdoors in March. See page 358. Plant new beds. See page 359. Shallots. — Plant out as advised on page 363. WHEN TO SOW, PLANT, ETC. 441 Sorrel.— Sow seeds as advised on page 366. Divide and replant old plants. Spinach. — Sow seeds of summer Spinach. See page 367. Tansy. — Sow seeds as advised on page 369. Divide and replant old roots. Tarragon. — Plant new beds early in the month. See page 370. Thyme. — Sow seeds of Common Thyme in heat as advised on page 371. Tomatoes. — Sow seeds in a temperature of 55 to 65 degrees for yielding plants to grow in cool houses. See page 376. Plant out January and February-sown seedlings. Turnips. — Sow for succession to come in for use in summer. See page 386. Sow also in frames as advised on page 387. General ^Afork. — Lose no time in fine weather in getting land in good tilth for seed beds. Weeds of all kinds, including the remains of exhausted winter crops, should be collected and burnt, saving the ashes for seed sowing. This month will be a busy one for seed sowing and planting. Artificial manures such as superphosphate, muriate, and sulphate of potash may be applied to soil intended for potatoes, onions, etc. April. Aniseed. — Sow seeds as advised on page 121. Artichokes (Globe). — Plant new beds early in the month. Propagate by suckers or offsets. See page 222. Plant out suckers wintered in a cold frame. Asparagus. — Seeds may be sown in nursery or permanent beds as advised on page 125. Plant early in the month one, two, or three-year-old crowns. See page 126. 442 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Balm. — Propagate by division of the roots. See 130. Basil. — Transplant seedlings in boxes in heat, and harden off at end of the month. See page 131. Beans (Broad). — Sox Long-pod and Windsor Beans for succession. See page 143. Earth np those six inches high. Beans (Kidney or French). — Sow under glass to plant out in May. See page 240. First sowing outdoors may be made at end of month. Beans (Runner).— Sow in heat to obtain early plants for putting out in May. See page 345. Beet. — Prepare the soil and apply artificial manures as advised on page 133. A small sowing may be made at end of the month on a warm border. Borage. — Sow seeds any time this month. See page 138. Borecole. — Sow seeds outdoors. See page 140. Broccoli. — Sow outdoors early this month for main crop. See page 147. Sow also at end of month for spring crop. Brussels Sprouts. — Sow seeds outdoors early for main crop. See page 154. Cabbages. — Sow seeds outdoors to ensure a crop for autumn use. See page 159. Capsicum. — Transplant March-sown seedlings into pots. See page 164. Cardoon. — Sow seeds outdoors towards middle or end of month. See page 166. Carrots. — Sow main crop kinds early in the month. See page 171. Cauliflowers. — Sow seeds outdoors early in the month for an autumn crop. See page 179. Plant out seedlings reared in September and February. WHEN TO SOW, PLANT, ETC. 443 Celery. — Sow seeds on a sunny border outdoors. Do this early in the month. See page 185. Transplant March-sown seedlings in boxes, and keep in heat till end of month ; then harden off. Prepare trenches for early crops. See page 185. Chamomile. — Propagate by seed, also by offsets in the manner advised on page 190. Chervil. — Sow seeds as advised on page 191. Chinese Artichoke. — Plant tubers early in the month. See page 194. Clary. — Sow early in the month. See page 197. Coriander. — Sow seeds any time this month. See page 198. Couve Tronchuda. — Sow seeds early in the month. See page 199. Cucumbers. — Sow seeds now for growing in frames, also seeds of ridge Cucumbers in heat. Attend to stopping, water- ing, syringing, and feeding. The temperature to be as advised for March. Egg Plants. — Transfer seedlings into large pots as advised on page 215. Gourds. — Sow seeds in a temperature of 65 to 75 degrees. See page 227. Horehound. — Sow seeds in drills six inches apart. See page 229. Hyssop. — Plant rooted slips as advised on page 232. Indian Corn.— Sow seeds in a temperature of 55 to 65 degrees. See page 234. Lettuce. — Sow seeds for succession outdoors. See page Marjoram. — Sow seeds of Knotted, Sweet, and Pot Mar- joram outdoors. See page 256. 444 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Mushrooms. — Beds made in January should begin to bear now. Collect materials for new beds. Mustard and Cress. — Sow under glass and in the open air. See page 266. Nasturtiums. — Sow outdoors as advised on page 270. Onions. — Sow main crop Onions if not done last month. F'lant out seedlings reared in heat. See page 278. Peas. — Sow main crop Peas. See page 300. Sow Sugar Peas outdoors this month. See page 306. Potatoes. — Plant main crop sorts early in the month See page 320. Purslane. — Sow seeds outdoors as advised on page 327. Radishes. — Sow outdoors. See page 330. Sage. — Propagate by slips or cuttings, also plant new beds. See page 348. Salsafy. — Sow as advised on page 351. Savory. — Sow seeds of Summer and Winter Savory out- doors. See page 353. Savoy. — Sow outdoors at end of month to yield plants for winter cutting. See page 355. Scorzonera. — Sow seeds as advised on page 356. Skirret. — Sow seeds early in the month. See page 364. Spinach. — Sow seeds for succession of summer Spinach. See page 3G7. Thyme. — Sow seeds of Common Thyme outdoors. Divide and replant Lemon and Common Thyme. See page 371. Tomatoes. — Sow seeds in heat for yielding plants for out- door culture and late crops under glass. See page 380. Plant out February and March seedlings. WHEN TO SOW, PLANT, ETC. 445 Turnips. — Sow for succession for summer use. See page 386. Vegetable Marrows. — Sow seeds in heat for planting out in May. See page 392. Watercress. — Sow seed in trenches outdoors. Sec page 395. General Work. — Clear away the mulching from Globe Artichokes. Use the hoe freely between growing crops. Earth up and stake early peas. Get plot ready for beet sow- ing. If the weather be dry seed beds may require watering. When necessary do it in the morning. May. Angelica. — Remove any flower stems that may form. See page 121. Artichokes (Globe). — Feed established beds with artificial or liquid manures. See page 222. Asparagus. — Cutting may now commence where the shoots are forward enough. Apply artificial manures as ad- vised on page 124. Roots used for forcing may be planted outdoors this month. See page 129. Basil. — Plant out March-reared seedlings any time this month as advised on page 131. Beans (Broad) — Sow Windsor Beans for succession. See page 143. Pinch off tops of shoots directly plants flower. See page 144. Young shoots make a capital dish when cooked. Earth up those six inches high. Beans (Kidney or French). — Sow outdoors as advised on page 240. Plant out those sown under glass. Beans (Runner). — Make the first sowing outdoors early in the month, and a further one at the end. See page 345. 446 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Beet. — The main sowing of Beet should be made early in the month. See page 134. Borecole. — Transjjlant seedlings in nursery bed as advised on page 141. Broccoli. — Sow early for late spring crop. Plant out seedlings reared in January. See pages 147 and 148. Trans- plant April-sown seedlings into nursery bed. Brussels Sprouts. — Plant out March-sown plants in their permanent quarters. Artificial manure may be applied just before planting. See pages 152 and 154. Transplant April-sown seedlings into nursery bed. See page 154. Cabbages. — Sow seeds outdoors to ensure an early winter crop. See page 154. Plant out March-sown plants in per- manent quarters. See page 160. Plant out Ked Cabbage reared in March. Capsicums. — Transfer seedlings into large pots. Seepage 164. Sow seeds under handlight outdoors. See page 164. Cardoons. — Plant out seedlings in trenches at end of the mouth. See page 167. Celeriac. — Transplant seedlings in nursery bed as advised on page 181. Celery. — Transplant seedlings into nursery bed early in the month. Prepare trenches for main crop. See page 185. Chervil. — Sow seeds as advised on page 191. Couve Tronchuda. — Transplant seedlings six inches apart in nursery bed. See page 198. Cucumbers. — Sow seeds of ridge Cucumbers in beds out- doors. The middle of the month will be soon enough. Follow general directions given last month. Shading may be neces- sary on hot days. Ventilate when temperature reaches 75 degrees. Top-dress early beds. Dandelion. — Sow seeds outdoors early this month See page 212. WHEN TO SOW, PLANT, ETC. 447 Endive. — Sow now for an early crop. See page 216. Gourds. — Sow seeds direct in the open beds at the end of the month. Plant out late in the month seedlings reared in heat last month. See page 227. Hyssop. — Sow seeds in a -warm border outdoors. See page 232. Indian Corn. — Sow seeds outdoors as advised on page 234. Do this early in the month. Plant out seedlings reared in heat. Lettuce. — Sow seeds outdoors to furnish main summer supply. See page 252. Leeks. — Thin out seedlings reared in May to three or four inches apart. See page 246. Marjoram. — Plant out seedling Sweet Marjoram reared in heat in March. See page 256. Mushrooms. — New beds may be made indoors. See page 260. Mustard and Cress. — Sow in the open air. See page 206. New Zealand Spinach. — Plant out seedlings reared in March. See page 271. Onions. — Thin out most advanced crops, and hoe between autumn-sown ones. Parsley. — Make a second sowing in the open garden. See page 286. Parsnips. — Thin out the seedlings as advised on page 290. Peas. — Sow main crop Peas. See page 300. Eemove points of shoots of early shoots to promote productiveness. Potatoes. — Hoe the surface of the soil between the rows and earth up the most forward plants. See page 321. Pot Marigold. — Sow seeds as advised on page 327. 448 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Purslane. — Sow seeds as advised on page 327. Quinoa. — Sow seeds as advised for orache on page 284. Radishes. — Sow in rich soil outdoors. See p^ge 330. Rampion. — Sow seeds outdoors as advised on page 335. Savoys. — Plant out seedlings in nursery bed as advised for cabbage. Seakale. — Thin out seedlings as advised on page 358. Spinach. — Sow seeds of summer Spinach for succession See page 367. Tarragon. — Lift young growths and plant in boxes for a winter supply. See page 370. Tomatoes. — Plant outdoors at end of the month. See page 380. Frame planting may also be done. See page 378. Tropceolum tuberosum. — Plant the tubers early in the month as advised on page 384. Turnips. — Sow for succession for late summer use. See page 386. Vegetable Marrows. — Sow seeds on prepared beds out- doors at end of month. Plant out those reared last month. See page 390. Watercress. — Plant new beds in streams as advised on page 396. General Work. — Earth up and stake peas. Hoe freely between growing crops. Hoeing not only keeps weeds in check, but also prevents undue evaporation of moisture from the soil. The earlier crops will be ready for thinning out. WHEN TO SOW, PLANT, ETC. 449 June. American Cress. — Sow early this month to afford a suc- cession to the March sowings. See page 120. Asparagus. — Continue cutting till the middle of the month, then cease. Apply artificials as advised on page 124. Beans (Broad). — Remove points of shoots directly blos- soms open to prevent Dolphin Fly attacking them. Earth up those six inches high. Beans (Kidney or French). — Sow for succession out- doors. See page 240. Mould up earliest crops. Beans (Runner). — A late sowing may be made at the end of the month if required. See page 345. Beet. —Thin out Beet as advised on page 134. Borecole. — Plant out transplanted seedlings in permanent positions as advised on page 141. Broccoli. — Plant out in permanent quarters seedlings reared in April. See page 148. Brussels Sprouts. — Plant out April-sown seedlings not later than end of the month. See page 154. Cabbages. —A further sowing for winter use may be made this month. See page 154. Plant out April-sown crop early this month. See page 160. Sow Rosette Coleworts about middle of the month. See page 161. Capsicums. — Plant out seedlings by the side of a sunny path. See page 164. Cardoons. — Keep well supplied with water in dry weather. Carrots. — Sow Shorthorn Carrots to oome in for use at end of summer. See page 171. Thin out main crop kinds. See page 173. Q 450 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Cauliflowers. — Plant out in permanent quarters seedlings reared in April. See page 179. Celeriac. — Plant out Celeriac in permanent quarters. See page 181. Celery. — Plant seedlings in trenches as advised on page 186. Chervil. — Sow seeds as advised on page 191. Chicory. — Sow seeds middle of the month. See page 193 Couve Tronchuda. — Transplant in permanent quarters any time during the month. See page 199. Cucumbers. — Plant Cucumbers in frames. See to stop- ping, watering, feeding, and ventilating as advised on page 199, etc. Shade plants grown in frames. Syringe early in morning and late in afternoon. See also last month's remarks. Dandelion. — Thin out seedlings to a foot apart in the row. See page 211. Endive. — Sow about the middle of the month for a suc- cessional crop. See page 216. Plant out May-sown seedlings. Gourds. — Plant out Gourds on open air beds as advised on page 227. Kohl Rabi. — Transplant seedlings in permanent quarters. See page 244. Lettuce. — Plant out seedlings in showery weather. Leeks. — Plant out the most forward plants. See page 246. Mint. — Cuttings of young shoots dibbled in in a moist soil will soon root. See page 258. Mustard and Cress. — Sow in the open air. See page 266. Onions. — Thin out the seedlings as advised on page 275. Uae the hoe freely between the rows. WHEN TO SOW, PLANT, ETC. 451 Peas. — Sow late Peas early in the month, and early and second early sorts late in the month for late supplies. See page 302. Potatoes. — Earth up the second early sorts. See page 321. Lift the earliest crop. Purslane. — Sow seeds as advised on page 327. Radishes. — Sow in a shady border. See page 330. Rampion. — Sow seeds outdoors as advised on page 335. Salsafy. — Thin out the seedlings as advised on page 351. Savoys. — Plant out in permanent quarters at the earliest opportunity. See page 355. Scorzonera. — Thin out seedlings as advised for Salsafy, page 35 1 . Shallots. — Remove soil from base of bulbs to accelerate ripening. See page 363. Skirret. — Thin out seedlings as advised on page 364. Spinach. — Sow seeds of Summer Spinach for successional crops. See page 367. Tomatoes. — Plant outdoors and in frames as advised on pages 378 and 380. Turnips. — Sow for autumn use. See page 386. Vegetable Marrows. — Plant out early in the month. See page 392. Watercress. — Plant new beds in streams as advised on page 396. General Work. — See to the thinning of onion, carrot, and other crops. Hoe freely between the rows. See thai, early celery, etc., is kept well watered. Earth up potatoes and peas. Stake runner beans and peas. % 2 452 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. July. Asparagus. — Apply artificial manures as advised on page 124. See that the beds are kept free from weeds. Balm. — As soon as the shoots are well in flower, gather and dry for winter use. See page 131. Basil. — Gather shoots when in flower, and dry for winter use. See page 132. Beans (Kidney or French). — Make last sowing out- doors. See page 240. Mould up earlier sown crops. Thin out early crops where too thick. Broccoli. — Plant out the remainder of the Broccoli crop at the earliest moment. See page 148. Give May and June- planted crops a dressing of nitrate of soda. See page 147. Brussels Sprouts. — Finish planting out remainder of crop. Northern growers may sow seeds this month, to winter in cold frame, and plant out next March. See page 154. Cabbage. — Sow from the middle of July onwards for spring use. See page 159. Southern growers will rind the end of the month soon enough. Plant out May and June seedlings. See page 160. Plant out June-sown coleworts to come in for use in autumn. Sow coleworts for planting out in September. See page 1G1. Cardoon. — Supply with liquid manure. See page 166. Celery. — Plant Celery in beds and trenches early in the month. See page 188. Supply freely with water and feed with manure. Chamomile. — Gather the blooms as they become fully developed. See page 190. Chervil. — Sow seeds as advised on page 191. Chicory. — Thin out seedlings as advised on page 193. WHEN TO SOW, PLANT, ETC. 453 Cucumbers. — Rilge Cucumbers should be well watered and attended to as advised on page 208. Attend to frame Cucumbers as advised last month. Plants in greenhouses will require liberal feeding if bearing heavily. Endive. — Sow for main crop late in the month. See page 216. riant out last month's sowing. Garlic. — Lift, dry, and store bulbs as advised on page 219. Hyssop. — Put in slips or cuttings in a shady border. Gather blooms for distilling when fully developed. See page 232. Leeks. — Plant out Leeks as advised on page 246. Marjoram.— Gather and dry the shoots when in bloom for winter use. See page 256. Mushrooms. — Form beds outdoors during the month. See page 262. Mustard and Cress. — Sow in a shady border. See page 266. Onions. — Lift, dry, and harvest Potato Onions as advised on page 281. Gather the bulbils of the Tree Onion for pick- ling. See page 281. Parsley. — Sow on a shady border for winter supply. See page 286. Potatoes. — Earth up late kinds. See page 321. Pot Marigold. — Gather and dry blooms as advised on page 327. Purslane. — Sow seeds as advised on page 327. Quinoa. — Seeds may be sown to provide a succession to the May-sown crop. See Orache, page 284, for details. Rosemary. — Put in cuttings or slips as advised on page 341. Gather when in full flower for distilling. 454 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Rocambole. — -Lift, dry, and store bulbs away. See page 340. Rampion. — Sow seeds outdoors as advised on page 335. Radishes. — Sow outdoors in a shady spot. See page 330. Winter radishes may also be sown. Spinach. — Sow seeds of Summer Spinach in a shady plot. See page 367. Savory. — Gather and dry shoots for winter use. See page 353. Savoys. — No time should be lost in getting Savoys planted in permanent quarters. See page 355. Thyme. — Propagate both Common and Lemon Thyme by cuttings. See page 371. Gather and dry shoots for winter use. See page 372. Tomatoes. — Begin to feed outdoor plants when first fruit forms. See page 373 for manures. Turnips. — Sow for winter use. See page 386. Vegetable Marrows. — Thin out the shoots where over- crowded, and begin to feed liberally. See page 392. General Work. — Thinning and hoeing are important operations which should not be neglected. Peas, runner beans, and celery will need copious waterings in dry weather. Mulch where possible with manure or lawn mowings to con- serve moisture. Feed with manure as advised iu connection with each vegetable. August. Aniseed. — Gather and harvest the seeds as advised on page 122. Beet.— Sow seeds of Silver Beet early this month to yield leaves for spring use. WHEN TO SOW, PLANT, ETC. 455 Brussels Sprouts. — Sow seeds to yield plants for winter- ing in frames to plant out in March. See page 154. Cabbages. — In the south the sowing for spring use should be made not later than the 12th. See page 159. Sow seeds of Ked Cabbage about the 12th. Celery. — Commence to earth up Celery. See page 187. Chervil. — Sow seeds as advised on page 191. Clary. — Gather the loaves and dry them as advised on page 197. Corn Salad. — Sow for the first time about middle of the month. See page 196. Coriander. — Gather the ripe seeds this month and store in bottles. See page 198. Cucumbers. — Attend to stopping, watering, and feeding. Clear out exhausted plants. Thin out shoots where much overcrowded. Egg Plants. — The fruit is generally ripe from now onwards. Endive. — Sow about the middle of the month for a late crop. See page 216. Plant out July-sown seedlings. Indian Corn. — Young heads will be ready to gather this month. Leeks. — Feed with the artificial or liquid manures advised on page 24£. Lettuce. — Sow hardy sorts for winter and spring supply. Sec page 252. Mint. — Cut Spearmint for drying for winter use, and Peppermint for distilling. See page 259. Mushrooms. — Beds may be made outdoors. See page 262, Form new beds under cover, 456 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Mustard and Cress. — Sow in a shady border outdoors. See page 266. Onions. — Sow Eocca, Tripoli, and White Lisbon Onions, the two former to make large bulbs for harvesting following summer, and the latter for drawing young for saladings. See page 276. Lift, dry, and harvest main crop (Spring) Onions. See page 280. Pickling Onions should be harvested this month. Peas. — Those sown last month will require plenty of water in the event of dry weather. A good mulching of manure on each side of the row will be of great benefit. Potatoes. — Lift second early crops. See page 322. Purslane. — The last sowing should be made early in the month. See page 327. Radishes.— Sow Winter Radishes. See page 332. Sage. — Gather and dry the leaves for winter use. See page 349. Shallots. — Lift, dry, and store as advised on page 363. Spinach. — Sow seeds of Winter Spinach the third week in the month. See page 368. Tomatoes. — Keep all side shoots removed from outdoor plants, and feed liberally. Watercress.— Sow seeds in trenches prepared as advised on page 395. General Work. — Continue to use the hoe between grow- ing crops. Gather herbs for drying. Get the plots ready for winter onions, spinach, lettuce, etc. Earth up early celery. Potato lifting aud onion harvesting are important operations needing attention this month. When to sow, plant, etc. 457 September. American Cress. — Sow any time this month to supply shoots for use in winter. See page 120. Basil. — Lift a few roots, plant them in pots, and place in a frame or heated house, to yield green shoots for use in winter. Cabbages. — Plant out July and August-sown plants in permanent quarters any time during the month. See page 160. Transplant Red Cabbage in nursery bed. See page 161. Plant coleworts as advised on page 161. Cardoons. — Commence to blanch the leaf stalks. See page 167. Cauliflowers. — Sow seeds on a warm border outdoors. See page 178. Celery. — Continue earthing up of Celery in fine weather. See page 187. Chervil. — Sow seeds on a south border as advised on page 191. Corn Salad. — Continue to make fortnightly sowings to end of the month. See page 196. Cucumbers. — Sow seeds early in the month for winter crops. See page 207. Close frames early on warm days to husband the heat. Endive. — Commence blanching May-sown plants. Plant out those reared in August. Leeks. — Commence to blanch as advised on page 248. Lettuce. — Sow seeds for spring supply. See page 252. Mushrooms. — New beds may be made indoors Collect and prepare manure for outdoor beds. See pages 259, etc. 458 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Mustard and Cress. — Sow outdoors. See page 266. Nasturtiums. — Gather seed pods for pickling. See page 270. Onions. — Lift, dry, and harvest Spring Onions. See page 280. Sow seeds of the Welsh Onion. See page 282. Parsley. — Cut off all the old leaves to indnce plants to make fresh growth. See page 287. Peas. — See that late sown Peas are kept well watered in dry weather. Potatoes. — Lift directly the tubers are fully developed, even if the shaws be still green. See page 322. Spinach. — A second sowing of Winter Spinach may be made early in the month. See page 308. Tomatoes. — Gather the fruit as it ripens on outdoor plants. Remove points of main shoots. General Work. — The principal work this month will be harvesting onions and potatoes, planting cabbages for spring, in addition to the sowings, etc., described above. October. Artichoke (Globe.) — Clear away dead foliage, and mulch with litter. See page 223. Balm. — Cut oft' the flower stems and top-dress with manure. Beans (Kidney). — Where a temperature of 65 to 75 degrees can be maintained, seeds of above may be sown in pots. See page 242. Brussels Sprouts. — Commence to gather Sprouts. Do not remove tops till Spi-outs are gathered. See page 155. WHEN TO SOW, PLANT, ETC. 459 Cardoons. — Blanch late-grown plants early in the month. See page 167. Carrots. — Commence to lift roots at end of the month. See page 173. Celeriac. — Lift and store roots as advised on page 181. Celery. — Continue to earth up celery as it advances in growth. See page 187. Chervil. — Sow seeds as advised on page 191. Chives. — Make fresh plantations early in the month. See page 196. Top-dress old beds at end of the month. Cucumbers. — Plant oat seedlings reared last month, and treat as advised on page 207. Summer crops will now have ceased to bear profitably. Endive. — Blanch Endive as advised on page 217. Hop. — Cut down shoots and top-dress with manure. See page 228. Lettuce. — Sow in cold frame early in the month to yield plants for planting out in March. See page 254. Leeks. — Blanch Leeks as advised on page 248. Mint. — Cut off the remaining shoots, and top-dress the beds with manure. See page 258. Mushrooms. — This is a good time to form ridge beds outdoors. See page 262. Beds in greenhouses, cellars, etc., may be made now. See page 260. Mustard and Cress. — Sow in heat. See page 266. Parsley. — Lift a few of the best plants and place in a cold frame to afford a winter supply. See page 287. Lift roots of Hamburg Parsley, and store as advised on page 287. Potatoes. — Lift and store maincrop kinds early in the month. See page 322. 460 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Radishes. — Sow on a hotbed to furnish Radishes for use at Christmas. See page 332. Rhubarb. — Clear off the dead leaves and top-dress with manure. See page 336. Tarragon. — Place the boxes of Tarragon planted in May in gentle heat, as advised on page 370. Tomatoes — The ordinary Tomato season is now at an end. In this work no mention is made of winter culture, because Tomatoes cannot be profitably grown, except by skilled gar- deners, at such a season. Watercress. — Plant new beds in streams, as advised on page 396. General Work. — Land infested with insects and diseases may now be dressed with gas-lime. See chapter on "Manures." Trenching, digging, and manuring of vacant land may also be done. Finish lifting potatoes. Gather and burn all vegetable refuse. November. Artichokes (Globe.) — Remove suckers from plants and place in pots in a cold frame. See page 223. Artichokes (Jerusalem). — Tubers may be lifted from now henceforth as required. See page 236. Cut down the stems. Asparagus. — This is a suitable time to prepare the site for a new bed. See page 124 for detailed instructions. Cut off the stems and top dress with manure. See page 126 and 127. Forcing may now commence in hothouses and on hotbeds. See page 128. Beans (Broad). — Sow in warm soils and south borders. See page 143. WHEN TO SOW, PLANT, ETC. 461 Beans (Kidney). — Sow in pots for forcing, as advised last month. See page 242. Beet. — Lift and store Beetroot as advised on page 135. Broccoli. — Gather tops of Sprouting Broccoli for use this month. " Heel over " most forward plants as advised on page Brussels Sprouts.— For late supplies lift plants carefully and " heel " them in in a north border. See page 155. Carrots. — Sow seeds of Shorthorn kinds on hotbeds to come in for use in spring. See page 174. Lift and store main crop roots early in the month. See page 173. Celery. — Protect Celery ridges in wet districts in the manner advised on page 188. Chicory. — Lift roots at end of the month, and store as advised on page 193. Chinese Artichoke. — Lift and store tubers as advised on page 195. Cucumbers. — See that a night temperature of 65 to 70 degrees, and ten degrees higher by day is maintained for winter crop. Syringe freely on bright days. See page 207. Dandelion. — Lift and place roots in pots or boxes to force. See page 213. Endive. — Transfer Endive to frames for blanching. See page 217. Mint. — Lift roots of Spearmint, place in boxes in heat to supply green shoots during the winter. See page 258. Mustard and Cress. — Sow in heated greenhouse. See page 266, Onions. — Trench and manure plot intended for Onions next year. See page 272. Parsnips. — Lift and store as advised on page 290. 462 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Rhubarb. — Lift and place roots in heat under glass or in mushroom house to ensure Rhubarb for use after Christmas. See page 338. Salsafy. — Lift and store roots as advised on page 351. Seakale. — Clear off dead leaves, and top-dress with manure. See page 359. Lift roots and place in heat to provide Seakale at Christmas. See page 360. Scorzonera. — Lift and store roots as advised for Salsafy on page 351. Skirret. — Lift and store roots as advised on page 364. Tropceolum tuberosum. — Lift and store the tubers as advised on page 384. Watercress. — Plant new beds in streams, as advised on page 396. General 'Work. — Trench and ridge vacant land. Apply gas-lime to insect-infested land. Collect tree-leaves and store in a heap for hotbeds, etc. Basic slag, bone meal, and kainit may be advantageously applied to vacant land for next year's crops. See chapter on " Manures." December. Asparagus. — Place roots in frames on hotbeds, also in boxes in a hothouse. See page 128 for full details. A temperature of 05 to 70 degrees will be required. Beans (Broad). — Sow in warm soils and south borders. See page 143. Brussels Sprouts. — To grow fine Sprouts manure and trench a plot of ground specially for this crop. See page 152. Carrots. — Sow seeds on hotbed as advised last month. Chicory. — Place roots in heat as advised on page 193. WHEN TO SOW, PLANT, ETC. 463 Cucumbers. — See last mouth's remarks. Sow seeds towards end of month for early crop. A temperature of 70 to 80 degrees is necessary to grow Cucumbers well. Dandelion. — Introduce roots into heat to supply a succession of salading. See page 212. Mushrooms. — Form beds outdoors. See page 262. Make new beds in cellars, outhouses, etc., for succession. Mustard-and-Cress. — Sow under glass. See page 266. Lettuce. — Sow seeds in heat to provide plants for cutting young. See page 254. Peas. — In warm districts Peas may be sown on a south border. Rhubarb. — Lift and place crowns in heat to succeed those put in last month. See page 338. Seakale. — Lift roots and place in heat to ensure a succession of forced shoots. See page 360. Turnips. — In the event of severe weather lift a few roots and store in sand, as advised on page 386. General ^A^ork. — Trenching, ridging and manuring vacant land may still be done. Collect manure for mushroom beds. Look over roots and bulbs in the store, and pick out decayed ones. Repair tools and appliances. Get labels made ready for use when sowing and planting begins. Plan out the plots on paper where next year's crops are to be grown. Turn over compost heaps, mixing lime freely with the materials. Get compost ready for seed sowing. * FRENCH GARDENING. I. Introductory Notes. Intensive or French gardening has come very much to the fore of late years, owing to its receiving very prominent, if not over-laudatory, notice in the daily Press. Just as occurred in the case of the potato boom not long since, people were led to believe that colossal fortunes were to be made in a very short time by cultivating crops according to the system pursued by the Parisian market growers. Such phrases as " golden soil " and " gold-producing soil " were freely used in the daily Press, and stories of wonderful profits, varying from £600 to £700 per acre per annum, were circulated in the same manner. Hence it was not surprising to find a craze developed for starting French gardens either by private individuals or by companies, and the appearance of several books professing to give advice on, and instruction how to carry out, the growth of early crops on the Parisian system. One thing is certain. Several gardens have been started in this country, in each case under the direction of a French expert, and therefore we may naturally assume under the most favourable conditions as regards ensuring success ; but as to whether any one of them has made, or will make, a profit of anything like £600 an acre we cannot say. If we may believe the frequent references to several of the gardens in the daily Press, they are on the high road to success — a fact we hope may be accomplished in due course. Comparative Cost and Profits. — On this point we cannot do better than quote an estimate contributed by Mr. C. D. McKay, author of the " French Garden " to the FRENCH GARDENING. 465 "Journal of Horticulture." He says: We will suppose that one lias a suitable rich piece of ground, let us say of six acres in extent, but which requires breaking up and levelling. Let us then suppose that a start is made by breaking up two acres, and that we have 900 lights and 6,000 cloches as a beginning. It is always necessary to have a complementary acre of open ground to one acre covered with glass, to permit of the lights and cloches being shifted off the carrots and cauliflowers, and placed on the beds for melons, cucumbers, strawberries, etc. Therefore you will see b) r the following figures, the .£1,200 receipts are obtained from the two acres for a capital expenditure of £1,150. The capital expenditure would, roughly, be as follows: 900 lights and boxes complete ,£525 6,000 cloches Levelling ground Water tank, piping, stand pipes, and hose Crates for packing ... Shed Tools Sundry Expenditure 390 50 50 20 25 10 41,150 YEARLY EXPENDITURE. Manure French gardener and house Two men Three women when required Extra labour in season Water supply ... Rent, rates, etc Sundry expenses =£775 RECEIPTS FROM TWO ACRES. Produce of 900 lights at 20s 4900 Produce of 6,000 cloches at 2s 300 The produce of out-door crops on the other four acres not estimated for ... ... ... ... ... ...=£200 ... 175 ... 100 ... 20 ... 100 ... 30 ... 50 ... 100 =£1,200 It will thus be seen that the approximate capital expendi- ture for the first year is £575 per acre, and the yearly expenditure about £387. The estimated gross receipts are set down at £600, and, if we deduct £387 as the yearly 466 VEGETABLES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. expenditure, we have a balance of £213 as profit. As ori- ginally published in the daily Press, we were led to infer that the profits were £600 per acre, whereas these figures were really the gross returns — quite a different matter. Will French Gardening Pay?— Yes; if the foregoing facts are to be relied upon. But it must be clearly borne in mind that there are many very important points to be taken into consideration before we can seriously advise any reader of this book to embark in the enterprise. In the first place, he must have plenty of capital to pro- perly equip the holding, and carry him through the first year. Secondly, he must be located not too far from a railway station or town, where he can make sure of a regular and ample supply of manure. Without the latter it is hopeless to carry on the industry. Thirdly, he must be prepared to engage the services of a French expert, or of an English one who has been trained in one' of the gardens established here, to teach him the proper methods of culture. Fourthly, lie must not overlook the fact that it is one thing to grow, but quite another to find a remunerative and ready market for the produce. lie must remember that he lias not only the imported, but also the home-grown, produce from the existing- French gardens in this country to compete with. It seems to us hopeless to grow for the big markets. The only chance of success is to create a market in the thriving seaside resorts or big inland towns, and cater for local needs. If this latter point can be achieved, then French gardening might pay, but not otherwise. Culture for Home Supplies. — When it comes to the question, however, of growing merely for home use, then the method of growing early crops on the French system is worthy of consideration. The practice of the art will not only enable the gardener to secure a succession of early crops, but gradually instil into his mind the principles of intensive cultivation, or making the most of a small plot of land. It is true, skilled gardeners have long practised the art in Eng- FRENCH GARDENING. 467 land of rearing early vegetables and saladings on hotbeds, but have not paid so much attention to growing so many crops together or in succession on the same area as the French do. The method, therefore, is one which is deserving of being carried out on a small scale. II. Appliances, etc. The points we have now to consider are of a practical nature. Whether it is intended to start a " French garden " on a large or a small scale, certain appliances and materials are essen- tial, and these we will proceed to deal with. This means that it will be necessary to incur a considerable expenditure in the first instance, as cloches and frames are rather expen- sive to purchase. Frames. — These must be made of 1$ in wood, be 9 in. high at back, Tin. in front, 13ft. long, and 4ft. wide. The panes of glass used for glazing the sashes should be about 52in. square. The French gardeners brace corners of their frames with iron clamps, and with a couple of iron rods down the centre to prevent warping. The average cost per frame is 28s. to 40s. Cloches. — Cloches, or bell-glasses, arc made entirely of ulass, are dome or bell shaped, and usually without knobs at the top. They are made in the following diameters: 14in., 16in., 18in., and 20in., and cost from 120s. to 180s. per 100, or Is. 6d. each, delivered. Mats. — These are essential for protecting the frames and cloches in seveite weather. The French make theirs of rye straw, and, as wheat straw is too brittle for the purpose, it will be necessary to grow a plot of rye to cut in a green state for making the mats. Ready-made rye mats cost about Is. 6d. each. They are usually made in lengths of 6ft. and widths of 2ft, yf'l/V IS FRENCH GARDENING. 463 Manure. — The best manure for Fiench gardening is fresh horse dung. It should have plenty of straw amongst it. Horse droppings alone, or shavings and horse droppings, or peat moss litter, are absolutely useless. The manure must be collected during the summer — May to September — and placed in a stack. Roughly, a ton of manure is required for a square rod (30 \ square yards), or 160 tons to the acre. Manure costs an average of 5s. to 7s. a ton. The manure has to remain in the stack till December; then the business of forming the beds begins, half of the sta <5> <9> <8> <5> INDEX. American Cress Botanical Name Culture Duration Foreign Names Gathering the Crop History Longevity of Seeds Native Habitat Natural Order Quantity to Sow ... Seed, Germination of Time to reach Maturity Uses When Ready for Use When to Sow Angelica Botanical Name Culture Duration Foreign Names Gathering the Crop History Longevity of Seeds Native Habitat ... Natural Order Quantity to Sow ... Seed, Germination of Soil Time to reach Maturity Uses When Beady for Use . When to Sow PAGE PAGE 119 Aniseed 121 119 Botanical Name 121 12(1 Culture 121 119 Duration 121 119 Foreign Names 121 120 Gathering the Crop ... 122 119 History 121 420 Longevity of Seeds ... 420 119 Native Habitat 121 119 Natural Order 121 420 Quantity to Sow 420 420 Soil for 121 420 Time to reach Maturity 420 119 Uses 121 420 When Beady for Use ... 420 420 When to Sow 420 120 Artichoke, Chinese 194 120 Botanical Name 194 120 Duration 194 120 Foreign Names 194 120 History 194 121 Lifting and Storing ... 195 120 Longevity of Seeds ... 421 420 Manures 194 120 Native Habitat 194 120 Natural Order 194 420 Planting 194 420 Quantity to Plant 421 120 Seed, Germination of ... 421 420 Soil for 194 120 Time to reach Maturity 421 420 Uses 194 420 When Ready for Use ■■ 421 INDEX. 475 rAGE 3 PAGE Artichoke, When to Plant 421 Asparagus, Botanical Name 122 Pests and Diseases 68 Crowns after Forcing ... 129 Artichoke, Globe 220 Distances for Planting... 125 Botanical Name 220 Duration 122 Duration 220 Exhibition Notes 130 Exhibition Notes 223 Forcing in Frames 128 Foreign Names 220 in Hothouses 129 History 220 Foreign Names 122 Gathering the Crop 223 Gathering the Crop 127 General Management of 223 General Management of 126 Longevity of Seeds 420 History 122 Manures 222 Manures 123 Native Habitat 220 Native Country 122 Natural Order 220 Natural Order 122 Plantation, Duration of 223 Pests and Diseases 67 Propagation by Seeds ... 222 Planting 126 by Suckers 222 Propagation 124 Quantity to Plant 420 Quantity to Sow or Plant 420 Seed, Germination of ... 420 Seed, Germination of ... 420 Soil for 222 Seeds, Saving 53 Time to reach Maturity 420 Soil for 123 Uses 221 Time to reach Maturity 420 Varieties of 398 Uses 122 When Eeady for Use ... 420 Varieties of 398 When to Sow 420 When Eeady for Use ... 420 Artichoke, Jerusalem 235 When to Sow or Plant ... 420 Botanical Name 236 Duration 235 Balm 130 Exhibition Notes 237 Botanical Name 130 History 235 Culture 130 Foreign Names 235 Duration 130 Lifting and Storing 236 Foreign Names 130 Longevity of Seeds 420 Gathering the Crop 131 Native Habitat 235 History 130 Natural Order 235 Longevity of Seeds Native Habitat 420 Pests and Diseases 69 130 Planting 236 Natural Order 130 Seed, Germination of ... 420 Quantity to Sow 420 Time to reach Maturity 420 Seed, Germination of ... 420 Soil 235 Soil for 130 Uses 235 Time to reach Maturity 420 When to Plant 420 Uses 130 When Ready for Use ... 420 When Ready for Use ... 420 Varieties of 398 When to Sow or Plant ... 420 Asparagus 122 Basil 131 Age of Plants 126 Botanical Name 131 Beds for 124 Culture 131 Beds, Duration of 128 Duration 131 476 INDEX. Basil, Foreign Names Gathering the Crop History Longevity of Seeds Native Habitat Natural Order Quantity to Sow ... Seed, Germination of Time to reach Maturity Uses When Eeady for Use When to Sow Bean, Broad Botanical Name Exhibition Notes . . . Duration Foreign Names Gathering the Crop General Management of History Longevity of Seeds Manures Native Country Natural Order Pests and Diseases Protecting Early Crops Quantity to Sow ... Seed, Germination of Seed Sowing Seeds, Saving Soil for Time to reach Maturity Uses Varieties of When Eeady for Use . When to Sow Bean, French or Kidney . Botanical Name Climbing Duration Exhibition Notes ... Forcing Foreign Names Gathering the Crop General Culture ... . History Longevity of Seeds Manures for PAGE PAGE 131 Bean, French or Kidney, 132 Native Habitat 237 131 Natural Order 237 420 Pests and Diseases ... 69 131 Quantity to Sow 420 131 Seed, Germination of ... 420 420 Seed Sowing 240 420 Seeds, Saving 55 420 Soil 239 131 Time to reach Maturity 420 420 Uses 239 420 Varieties of 399, 400 141 When Eeady for Use ... 420 141 When to Sow 420 145 Bean, Eunner 342 142 Botanical Name 342 141 Duration 342 144 Exhibition Notes 347 144 Foreign Names 342 142 Gathering the Crop ... 347 420 General Culture ... 345 143 History 342 142 Longevity of Seeds ... 420 142 Native Habitat 342 67 Natural Order 342 144 Pests and Diseases 70 420 Quantity to Sow 420 420 Seed, Germination of ... 420 143 Soil 344 53 Seeds, Saving 55 142 Sowing 344 420 Time to reach Maturity 420 142 Uses 343 399 Varieties of 399 420 When Eeady for Use ... 420 420 When to Sow 420 237 Beet, Botanical Name ... 132 237 Duration 132 241 Exhibition Notes 137 237 Foi-cing in Frames ... 135 242 History 132 241 Foreign Names 132 237 General Management of 134 241 Lifting and Storing ... 135 241 Longevity of Seeds ... 420 237 Manures for 133 420 Native Habitat 132 239 Natural Order 132 INDEX. 477 Beet, Pests and Diseases.. TAGR 67 Boundary Fences Quantity to Sow 420 Box Edgings, Cost of Seed, Germination of .. 420 Broccoli Seed Sowing 134 Botanical Names Seeds, Saving 53 Duration Silver 137 Exhibition Notes Soil for 133 Foreign Names Time to reach Maturity 420 Gathering the Crop Varieties of 400 General Culture Uses 132 History When Eeady for Use .. 420 Longevity of Seeds When to Sow 420 Manures for Bolting of Crops 57 Native Habitat Borage 138 Natural Order Botanical Name 138 Pests and Diseases Culture 138 Planting Duration 138 Protecting the Crop Foreign Names 138 (Quantity to Sow Gathering the Crop . . 138 Seed, Germination of ... History 138 Seed Sowing Native Habitat 138 Seeds, Saving Natural Order 138 Seedlings, Treatment of Soil for 138 Soil for Uses 138 Time to reach Maturity Borecole 138 Uses Botanical Name 138 Varieties of Duration 139 When Pieady for Use ... Exhibition Notes 141 When to Sow Foreign Names 138 Brussels Sprouts Gathering the Crop 141 Botanical Name History 139 Duration Longevity of Seeds 420 Exhibition Notes Manures for 139 Foreign Names Native Habitat 139 Gathering the Crop Natural Order 139 General Culture Pests and) Diseases 67 History Planting 140 Longevity of Seeds Quantity to Sow 420 Manures for Seed, Germination of .. 420 Native Country Seed Sowing 140 Natural Order Seeds, Saving 53 Pests and Diseases Seedlings, Transplanting 140 Planting Soil for 139 Quantity to Sow Time to reach Maturity 420 Retarding the Crop Uses 139 Seed, Germination of ... Varieties of 401 Seed Sowing When Eeady for Use ... 420 Soil for When to Sow 420 Time to reach Maturity 47S INDEX. PAGE Brussels Sprouts,Varieties of 403 Uses 152 When Ready for Use ... 420 When to Sow 420 Cabbage 156 Botanical Name 156 Coleworts 161 Distances for Planting. . . 160 Duration 156 Exhibition Notes 162 Foreign Names 156 Gathering the Crop . . . 162 General Culture 160 History 156 Longevity of Seeds ... 420 Manures for 158 Native Country 156 Natural Order 156 Pests and Diseases... ... 67 Planting , 160 Quantity to Sow 420 Red 161 Seed, Germination of ... 420 Seed Sowing 158 Seedlings, Treatment of 159 Seeds, Saving 53 Soil for 157 Time to reach Maturity 420 Uses 157 Varieties of 403 When Ready for Use ... 420 When to Sow 420 Calendar of Work 433 Capsicum 163 Botanical Name 163 Culture 163 Duration 163 Foreign Names 163 Gathering the Crop ... 164 History 163 Longevity of Seeds ... 420 Native Habitat 163 Natural Order 163 Pests and Diseases 67 Quantity to Sow 420 Seed, Germination of ... 420 Seeds, Saving 55 PAGE Capsicum, Time to reach Maturitv 420 Uses ... 163 Varieties of 403 When Ready for Use ... 420 When to Sow 420 Caraway 168 Botanical Name 168 Culture 168 Duration 168 Foreign Names 168 Gathering the Crop ... 169 History 168 Longevity of Seeds ... 420 Native Habitat 168 Natural Order 168 Quantity to Sow 420 Seed, Germination of ... 420 Soil for 168 Time to reach Maturity 420 Uses 168 When ready for Use ... 420 When to Sow 420 Cardoon 165 Blanching 167 Botanical Name 165 Duration ]65 Exhibition Notes 168 Foreign Names 165 Gathering the Crop ... 168 General Culture 167 History 165 Longevity of Seeds ... 421 Manures for 166 Native Habitat 165 Natural Order 165 Pests and Diseases 67 Planting 167 Quantity to Sow 421 Seed, Germination of ... 421 Seed Sowing 166 Seeds, Saving 55 Soil for 165 Time to reach Maturity 421 Varieties of 403 Uses 165 When Eeady for Nse ... 421 When to Sow 421 INDEX. 479 PAGE Carrot 169 Botanical Name 169 Duration 169 Exhibition Notes 175 Frame Culture 174 Foreign Names 169 General Culture 173 History 169 Lifting and Storing ... 173 Longevity of Seeds . . . 421 Manures for 170 Native Habitat 169 Natural Order 169 Pests and Diseases 67 Seed, Germination of ... 421 Seed Sowing 171 Reeds, Saving 55 Soil for 170 Thinning the Crop . . . 173 Time to reach Maturity 421 Types of 170 Quantity to Sow 421 Uses ..'. 169 Varieties of 404 When Ready for Fee ... 421 When to Sow 421 Cauliflower 176 Botanical Name 176 Duration 176 Exhibition Notes ISO Foreign Names 176 Gathering the Crop ... 180 General Culture 180 History 177 Longevity of Seeds ... 421 Manures for 178 Native Habitat 176 Natural Order 176 Pests and Diseases 67 Planting 179 Quantity of Seeds 421 Seed, Germination of ... 421 Seed Sowing 179 Seedlings, Treatment of 179 Soil for 177 Time to reach Maturity 421 Uses 177 Varieties of 404 Cauliflower, When Ready foi Use 421 When to Sow 421 Seeds, Saving 53 Catch Crops 47 Celeriac 180 Botanical Name 180 Culture 181 Duration 181 Foreign Names 180 History 181 Lifting and Storing 181 Longevity of Seeds 421 Native Habitat 181 Natural Order 181 Pests and Diseases 68 Quantity to Sow 421 Seed, Germination of ... 421 Time to reach Maturity 421 Uses 181 Varieties of 405 When Ready for Use . . . 421 When to Sow 421 Celery 182 Botanical Name 182 Catch Crops Between ... 186 Culture in Beds 186 in Trenches 185 Duration 182 Earthing Up 187 Exhibition Notes 189 Foreign Names 182 Gathering the Crop 188 General Culture 187 History 182 Longevity of Seeds 421 Manures 184 Native Habitat 182 Natural Order 182 Pests and Diseases 68 Planting 186 Protecting 188 Quantity to Sow 421 Seed, Germination of ... 421 Seed Sowing 184 Seeds, Saving 55 Seedlings, Treatment of 185 Soil for 182 4S0 INDEX. PAGE PAGE Celery, Time to reach Chicory, History 192 Maturity 421 Lifting and Storing 193 Varieties of 405 Longevity of Seeds 421 Uses 182 Manures for 193 When Ready for Use ... 421 Native Habitat 192 When to Sow 421 Natural Order 192 Chamomile 190 Pests and Diseases 68 Botanical Name 190 Quantity of Seeds 421 Culture 190 Seed, Germination of ... 421 Duration 190 Seed Sowing 193 Gathering the Crop 190 Seeds, Saving 55 History 190 Soil for 192 Foreign Names 190 Time to reach Maturity 421 Longevity of Seeds 421 Uses 192 Native Habitat 190 Varieties of 405 Natural Order 190 When to Sow 421 Quantity to Sow 421 When Ready for Use ... 421 Seed, Germination of ... 421 Chilis 163 Soil for 190 Chives 19(5 Time to reach Maturity 421 Botanical Name 196 Uses 190 Culture 196 When to Sow 421 Duration 196 When Ready for Use ... 421 Foreign Names 196 Chervil 191 Gathering the Crop 197 Botanical Name 191 History 196 Culture 191 Longevity of Seeds 421 Duration 191 Native Habitat 196 Foreign Names 191 Natural Order 196 Gathering the Crop 192- Quantity to Plant 421 History 191 Seed, Germination of ... 421 Longevity of Seeds 421 Soil for 196 Native Habitat 191 Time to reach Maturity 421 Natural Order 191 Uses 196 Parsnip-rooted 292 When Ready for Use ... 421 Quantity to Sow 421 When to Plant 421 Seed, Germination of ... 421 Chou de Burgliley 161 Soil for 191 Clary 197 Time to reach Maturity 421 Botanical Name 197 Uses 191 Culture 197 Varieties of 405 Duration 197 When Ready for Use ... 421 Foreign Names 197 When to Sow 421 Gathering the Crop 197 Chicory 192 History 197 Blanching 193 Longevity of Seeds 421 Botanical Name 192 Native Habitat 197 Culture 193 Natural Order 197 Duration 192 Quantity to Sow 421 Foreign Names 192 Seed, Germination of . . . 421 INDEX. 481 Clary, Time to reach Maturity Uses When Ready for Use ... When to Sow Clay Burning Colewort Cabbage Coriander Botanical Name Culture Duration Foreign Names Gathering the Crop Longevity of Seeds Native Habitat Natural Order Quantity to Sow Seed, Germination of ... Time to reach Maturity Uses When Beady for Use ... When to Sow Corn Salad; Botanical Name Culture Duration Foreign Names Gathering History Longevity of Seeds Native Habitat Natural Order Quantity to Sow Seed, Germination of ... Soil for Time to reach Maturity Uses Varieties of When to Sow When Beady for Use ... Couve Tronchuda Botanical Name Culture Duration Foreign Names Gathering the Crop History ,. ... Native Habitat Natural Order AGE PAGE 421 Couve Tronchuda, Uses ... 199 197 Cress, Garden 266 421 Cropping a Garden 45 421 Four-course System 46 20 Three-course System 46 161 Successional 48 197 Crops, Protecting tii 197 Thinning Out 53 198 Time Required to Manure 420 198 When Ready for Use ... 420 197 When to Sow or Plant... 420 198 Cucumber 199 421 Botanical Name 199 198 Culture in Frames 204 197 Culture in Greenhouse ... 200 421 in Winter 208 421 Duration 199 421 Exhibition Notes 210 198 Foreign Names 199 421 History 199 421 Longevity of Seeds 421 193 Manures 210 19.5 Natural Order 199 1915 Pests and Diseases 6W 195 Quantity to Sow 421 195 Ridge 208 196 Seed, Germination of ... 421 195 Seeds, Saving 55 421 Time to reach Maturity 421 195 Uses 200 195 Varieties of 406 421 When Ready for Use ... 421 421 When to Sow 421 195 421 Dandelion 211 195 Blanching 212 405 Botanical Name 211 421 Culture 212 421 Duration 211 198 Foreign Names 211 198 History 211 199 Longevity of Seeds 421 198 Native Habitat 211 198 Natural Order 211 199 Pests and Diseases 68 198 Quantity to Sow 421 198 Seed, Germination of ... 421 198 Time to reach Maturity 421 INDEX. PAGE ] 5 AGE Dandelion, Uses . 199 Diseases, Potato Disease ... 112 Varieties of . 406 Potato Scab 113 When Ready for Use . . 421 Radish Mildew 114 When to Sow . 421 Sclerotium Disease of Digging Soils Dill 24 . 212 Potatoes Seedling Cabbage Disease 114 115 Botanical Name ... . 212 Seedling Pea Blight ... 115 Culture . 213 Sleeping Disease of To- Duration . 212 matoes 115 Foreign Names ... . . 212 Spinach Mould 116 Gathering the Crop . 213 Tomato Black Spot 116 History Native Habitat . 213 Turnip Bacterial Disease 117 . 212 White Rust 118 Natural Order . 212 Yellow Spot Disease of Soil for . 213 Tomatoes 118 Uses . 213 Drainage of Vegetable Ga rden S Egg Plant 213 Diseases 99 Botanical Name 213 American Potato Scab . 99 Culture 214 Artichoke Leaf Spot . . 99 Duration 213 Asparagus Rust 99 Foreign Names 213 Bacterial Tomato Disea so 100 Gathering the Crop 215 Bacteriosis in Tomatoc s 101 History 213 Bacteriosis in Potatoes .. 101 Longevity of Seeds 421 Beet Bust . 101 Native Habitat 213 Brown Stripe Toma to Natural Order 213 Disease . 102 Pests and Diseases 68 Black Rot of Cabbage . . 103 Quantity to Sow 421 Black Scab on Potatoes .. 104 Seed, Germination of ... 421 Canker and Rot ... . 105 Time to reach Maturity 421 Carrot Disease . 105 Uses 214 Celery Leaf Blight... . 105 Varieties of 406 Club Boot . 105 When Ready for Use ... 421 Cucumber and Mel on When to Sow 421 Mildew . . 107 Endive 215 Cucumber Leaf Blot eh Blanching 217 Disease . . 108 Botanical Name 215 Cucumber Bot .. 109 Duration 215 Lettuce Mildew .. 110 Foreign Names 215 Mint Rust .. 110 General Culture 217 Mushroom Disease .. no Exhibition Notes 217 Onion Mildew . . 110 History 215 Onion Scab .. Ill Longevity of Seeds 421 Onion Sclerotinia ... .. Ill Manures for 216 Onion Smut .. Ill Native Habitat 215 Parsnip Mildew .. 112 Natural Order 215 Tea Mildew .. 112 Pests and Diseases 68 Tea Spot .. 112 Quantity to Sow 421 INDEX. 488 Endive, Seed Germination of Seed Sowing Seeds, Saving Soil for Time to reach Maturity Uses Varieties of When Keady for Use ... When to Sow Exhibition Vegetables Number to Exhibit... Preparing Vegetables for Exhibits, Staging Fencing, Oak and Pale ... Fennel Botanical Name Culture ... Duration ... Foreign Names Gathering the Crop ... History Longevity of Seeds Native Habitat Natural Order Quantity to Sow Seed, Germination of ... Soil for Time to reach Maturity Uses Varieties of When Eeady for Use ... When to Sow or Plant... French Bean French Gardening Garden Friends Birds Devil's Coach-house Beetle 424 Earthworms Frogs and Toads . . . Garden Spider Hawk Flies Lacewing Fly Ladybird Beetles ... Testacella Slug ... Tiger Beetle Violet Ground Beetle AGE PAGE 421 Garlic 219 216 Botanical Name 219 5.3 Culture 219 216 Duration 219 421 Foreign Names 219 216 History 219 407 Lifting and Storing 220 421 Native Habitat 219 421 Natural Order 219 Pests and Diseases 68 62 Quantity to Plant 421 61) Time to reach Maturity 421 61 Uses 219 Varieties of 407 12 When Eeady for Use ... 421 218 When to Plant 421 218 Globe Artichoke 220 218 Good King Henry 224 218 Botanical Name 224 218 Culture 224 218 Duration 224 218 Foreign Names 224 421 Gathering the Crop 225 218 History 224 218 Longevity of Seeds 421 421 Native Habitat 224 421 Natural Order 224 218 Pests and Diseases 68 421 Quantity to Sow 421 218 Seed, Germination of ... 421 407 Time to reach Maturity 421 421 Varieties of 407 421 Uses 224 237 When Beady for Use ... 421 464 When to Sow 421 Gourd 225 424 Botanical Name 225 424 Culture 226 424 Duration 225 426 Foreign Names 225 426 Gathering the Crop ... 227 426 History 225 426 Longevity of Seeds 421 430 Native Habitat 225 4.30 Natural Order 225 431 Pests and Diseases 68 432 Quantity to Sow 421 432 Seed, Germination of ... E 2 421 iS4 INDEX. Gourd, Time to reach Maturity 421 Uses 226 Varieties of 407 When Ready for Us© ... 421 When to Sow 421 Half-acre Garden 5 Hamburg Parsley 287 Handlights 59 Herb Pests and Diseases... 68 Herbs, Varieties of 407 Hop, Botanical Name 227 Culture 228 Duration 227 Foreign Names 227 Gathering the Crop 228 History 228 Native Habitat 227 Natural Order 227 Pests and Diseases... ... 68 Time to reach Maturity 421 Uses 228 Varieties of 407 When Eeady for Use ... 421 When to Plant 421 Horehound 228 Botanical Name 228 Culture ... 229 Duration 229 Foreign Names ... ... 228 Gathering the Crop 229 History 229 Longevity of Seeds 421 Native Habitat 228 Natural Order 229 Quantity to Sow 421 Seed, Germination of ... 421 ' Soil 229 Time to reach Maturity 421 Uses 229 When Beady for Use ... 421 When to Sow 421 Horseradish 229 Botanical Name 229 Culture 230 Duration 230 Foreign Names 229 PAGE Horseradish, History ... 230 Lifting and Storing ... 230 Native Habitat 230 Natural Order 229 Pests and Diseases 68 Soil 230 Time to reach Maturity 422 Uses 230 Varieties of 407 When Beady for Use ... 422 When to Plant 422 Llyssop, Botanical Name... 231 Culture 232 Duration 231 Foreign Names 231 Gathering the Crop ... 232 History 232 Longevity of Seeds ... 422 Native Habitat 231 Natural Order 231 Quantity to Sow 422 Seed, Germination of ... 422 Soil 232 Time to reach Maturity 422 Uses 232 When Beady for Use ... 422 When to Sow 422 Ichneumon Flies 427 Indian Corn 232 Botanical Name 232 Culture 234 Duration 234 Foreign Names 232 Gathering the Crop ... 234 History 234 Longevity of Seeds ... 422 Native Habitat 234 Natural Order 232 Pests and Diseases 69 Quantity to Sow 422 Seed, Germination of ... 422 Time to reach Maturity 422 Uses 234 Varieties of 407 When Beady for Use ... 422 When to Sow 422 Indian Cress 269 INDEX. 4S5 PAGE PAGE Jerusalem Artichoke 235 Lettuce, Botanical Name... 249 Kale 138 Duration 250 Kidney Bean Knol-lvohl 237 243 Early Crops Exhibition Notes 252 255 Kohl-Eabi 243 Foreign Names 249 Botanical Name 243 General Culture 254 Culture Duration 244 243 History Longevity of Seeds 250 422 Foreign Names 243 Main Crops 252 Gathering the Crop History Longevity of Seeds Natural Order 244 243 422 243 Manures Native Habitat Natural Order Pests and Diseases 251 250 249 69 Pests and' Diseases 69 Quantity to Sow 422 Quantity to Sow Seed, Germination of ... Time to reach Maturity Uses When to Sow When Ready for Use ... 422 422 422 243 422 422 Seed, Germination of ... Sowing Seeds, Saving Soil Spring Crops Time to reach Maturity Types of 422 251 56 250 254 422 250 Lamb's Lettuce 195 Uses 250 Laying Out Vegetable Garde n 1 Varieties of 408 Leek 244 When Ready for Use ... 422 Blanching 248 When to Sow 422 Botanical Name 244 Winter Crops 254 Culture for Exhibition... 247 Young in Winter 254 Duration 244 Exhibition Notes 249 Maize 232 Foreign Names 244 Manures 26 History 244 Application of 43 Longevity of Seeds 422 Basic Slag 30 Manures 246 Blood 30 Natural Order 244 Bone-meal 31 Pests and Diseases 69 Composts 31 Planting 246 Cow-dung 31 Quantity to Sow 422 Dissolved Bones 32 Seed, Germination of ... 422 Dried Blood 32 Seed Sowing 246 Farmyard 32 Seeds, Saving 56 (i as-lime 33 Soil 246 Green 33 Time to reach Maturity 422 Guano 33 Uses 245 Gypsum 34 Varieties of 407 Horse 34 When Beady for Use ... 422 Kainit 35 When to Sow 422 Leather Parings 34 Lettuce 249 Lime 30, 35 Blanching 254 Liquid 36 4S6 INDEX. PAGE Manures, Mixing 43 Muriate of Potash 36 Night Soil 37 Nitrate of Potash 37 Nitrate of Soda 37 Nitrogenous 30 Phosphatic 30 Peat-moss Litter 38 Pig-dung 38 Potash 30 Poultry Dung 38 Rabbit Dung 39 Salt 39 Sawdust and Shavings... 39 Sewage 41 Sheep Dung 41 Silicate of Potash 41 Soot 42 Sulphate of Ammonia... 41 Sulphate of Iron 41 Sulphate of Magnesia... 42 Sulphate of Potash 42 Superphosphate of Lime 42 Urine 42 Woodashes 43 Marigold, Pot 326 Botanical Name 326 Culture 327 Duration 326 Foreign Names 326 History 327 Longevity of Seeds 422 Native Habitat 326 Natural Order 326 Quantity to Sow 422 Seeds, Germination of ... 422 Time to reach Maturity 422 Uses 327 When Ready for Use ... 422 When to Sow 422 Marjoram 255 Botanical Names 255 Common 255 Culture 256 Duration 256 Foreign Names 255 Gathering the Crop 256 History 256 Marjoram, Knotted Longevity of Seeds Native Habitat Natural Order Pot Quantity to Sow ... Seed, Germination of Soil Sweet Time to reach Maturity Uses When Ready for Use When to Sow Mercury Mint Botanical Name ... Culture Duration Foreign Names Gathering tlie Crop History Native Habitat Natural Order Pennyroyal Peppermint Pests and Diseases... Soil Spearmint Time to reach Maturity Uses When Ready for Use When to Plant ... Mountain Spinach . . . Mulching Mushroom Beds, Time to Make Botanical Names . . . Exhibition Notes ... Foreign Names Frame Culture Gathering the Crop History Indoor Culture Native Habitat Natural Order Outdoor Culture ... Pests and Diseases... Time to reach Maturity PAGE 255 422 255 255 255 422 422 257 255 422 256 422 422 INDEX. 487 PAGE Mushroom, Uses 260 When Beady for Use . . . 422 Mustard and Cress 266 Botanical Names 266 Culture in Frames 268 in Winter 266 Duration 266 Exhibition Notes 269 Foreign Names 266 Gathering the Crop ... 268 History 266 Longevity of Seeds ... 422 Native Habitat 266 Natural Order 266 Outdoor Culture 268 Quantity to Sow ...421, 422 Seed, Germination of 421, 422 Time to reach Maturity 422 Uses 266 Varieties of 406, 409 When to Sow ... 421, 422 When Beady for Use 421, 422 Nasturtium or Indian Cress 269 Botanical Name 269 Culture 270 Duration 269 Foreign Names 269 Gathering the Crop . . . 270 History 269 Longevity of Seeds ... 422 Native Habitat 269 Natural Order 269 Quantity to Sow 422 Seed, Germination of ... 422 Time to reach Maturity 422 Uses 269 When Beady for Use ... 422 When to Sow 422 New Zealand Spinach ... 270 Botanical Name 270 Culture 271 Duration 270 Foreign Names 270 Gathering the Crop ... 271 History 270 Longevity of Seeds '... 422 Natural Order 270 New Zealand Spinach, Native Habitat 270 Quantity to Sow 422 Seed Germination ... 422 Time to reach Maturity 422 Uses 271 Varieties of 409 When Beady for Use ... 422 When to Sow 422 One-acre Garden, Plan for 3 Onion 271 Autumn Sown 276 Botanical Name 271 Duration 271 Exhibition, Culture for 276 Notes 282 Foreign Names 271 General Culture 275 Harvesting 280 History 271 Longevity of Seeds . . . 422 Manures 272 Native Habitat 271 Natural Order 271 Pests and Diseases 69 Pickling, Culture of ... 280 Potato 281 Quantity to Sow 422 Salad ' 280 Seed, Germination of ... 422 Seed Sowing 274 Seeds, Saving 56 Soil 272 Time to reach Maturity 422 Tree or Egyptian 281 Underground 281 Uses 272 Varieties of 409 Welsh 282 When Eeady for Use ... 422 When to Sow 422 Orache, or Mountain Spinach 284 Botanical Name 284 Culture 284 Duration 284 Foreign Names 284 Gathering the Crop ... 284 ■138 INDEX. PAGE PAGE Orachc, or Mountain Parsnip Manures 29) Spinach, History 284 Native Habitat 288 Longevity of Seeds 422 Natural Order 287 Natural Order 284 Pests and Diseases 69 Native Habitat 284 Quantity to Sow 422 Quantity to Sow 422 Seed, Germination of ... 422 Seed, Germination of ... 422 Seed Sowing 290 Time to reach Maturity 422 Seeds, Saving 56 Uses 284 Soil 289 Varieties of 410 Time to reach Maturity 422 When Ready for Use ... 422 Uses 288 When to Sow 422 Varieties of 411 When Ready for Use ... 422 Packing Vegetables 63 When to Sow 422 Parsley 285 Paths, Cost of 14 Botanical Name 285 For Vegetable Garden... 10 Culture 286 Pea 292 Duration 285 Botanical Name 292 Exhibition Notes 287 Duration 293 Foreign Names 285 Early 298 Gathering the Crorj 287 Exhibition, Culture for 304 Hamburg 287 Exhibition Notes 308 History 285 Foreign Names 292 Longevity of Seeds 422 Forcing in Pots 307 Manures 286 Gathering the Crop 308 Native Habitat 28.5 General Culture 302 Natural Order 285 History 293 Pests and Diseases 69 Late 302 Quantity to Sow 422 Longevity of Seeds 422 Seed, Germination of ... 422 Maincrop 300 Seeds, Saving 56 Manures 295 Soil 286 Native Habitat 293 Time to reach Maturity 422 Natural Order 293 Uses 286 Pests and Diseases 69 Varieties of ... 411 Protectors 302 Winter Supply 287 Quantity to Sow 422 When Ready for Use ... 422 Second Early 300 When to Sow 422 Seed, Germination of ... 422 Parsnip 287 Seeds, Saving 56 Botanical Name 287 Soil 294 Culture for Exhibition ... 291 Sowing 296 Duration 288 Staking 302 Exhibition Notes 291 Sugar 306 Foreign Names 287 Time to reach Maturity 422 General Culture 290 Tops 306 History 288 Uses 294 Longevity of Seeds 422 Varieties of 411 Lifting and Storing 290 When Ready for Use ... 422 INDEX. -IS!) Pea, When to Sow Pennyroyal Peppermint Pests Aphis or Greenfly Asparagus Beetle Bean Aphis or Dolphin Beet Carrion Beetle Beet or Mangold Fly Birds Blue Cabbage Flea Cabbage Aphis Cabbage Fly Cabbage Butterflies Cabbage Powdered-win j Cabbage Moth Carrot Fly Carrot Seed Moth... Celery Fly Celery Stem Fly ... Cockchafer Beetle Flat Body Moth ... Crickets Dart Moth Diamond Back Moth Eelworms Garden Pebble Moth Ghost or Otter Moth Heart and Dart Moth Leather Jacket Grub Lettuce Fly Lettuce Root Aphis Mice Millepedes Mushroom Pest Onion Fly Pea. and Bean Thrips Pea Midge Pea Moth Pea Seed Weevils . . . Pea Weevils Pot Herb Moth ... Radish Fly Red Spider Rabbits and Hares... Root Aphis St. Mark's Fly ... Slugs and Snails ... TAGE PAGE .. 422 Pests, Snowy Fly 94 .. 259 Thrips 94 .. 259 Tiger Moth 94 66 Turnip Fly 95 71 Turnip Gall Weevil ... 96 71 Turnip Leaf Miners ... 96 'ly 72 Turnip Sawfly 97 72 Wasps 97 73 Woodlice 97 73 Wireworms 98 74 Yellow Under-wing Moth 98 74 Plan for Half-acre Garden 5 74 Plan for One-acre Garden 3 75 Plan for Quarter-acre Garden 6 Fly 76 Planting Vegetables ... 49 76 Plants, Constituents of ... 26 77 Portugal Cabbage 198 .. 78 Potato 309 78 Botanical Name 309 79 Distances for Planting... 319 79 Duration 309 79 Exhibition, Culture for 325 80 Notes 326 80 Foreign Name 309 80 Frame Culture 323 81 General Culture 321 83 History 309 83 Lifting and Storing ... 322 83 Manures 312 84 Native Habitat 309 84 Natural Order 309 84 Pests and Diseases 70 85 Planting 320 86 Pot Culture 324 86 Propagation by Cuttings 314 87 Propagation by Eyes ... 316 88 Propagation by Seeds ... 314 89 Quantity to Plant ... 422 89 Seed, Germination of ... 422 89 Seed, Saving 56 90 Seed Tubers or Sets ... 317 91 Soil 312 9"J Time to reach Maturity 422 .. 91 Uses 311 92 Varieties of 413 92 When Ready for Use ... 422 92 When to Plant 422 93 Pumpkins 225 4!)U INDEX. Purslane Botanical Name .. Culture Duration Foreign Names Gathering of Crop History Longevity of Seeds Native Habitat Natural Order Quantity to Sow .. Seed, Germination of Time to reach Maturity Uses Varieties of When to Sow When Ready for Use Quarter-acre Garden Quinoa Botanical Name Culture Duration Foreign Names History Longevity of Seed. Native Habitat Natural Order Quantity to Sow Seed, Germination of Time to reach Maturity Uses Varieties of When Ready for Use When to Sow Radish Botanical Name ... Duration Exhibition Notes . . . Foreign Names Frame Culture Gathering the Crop History Longevity of Seeds Manures Native Habitat Natural Order Outdoor Crops PAGE 327 327 327 327 327 328 327 422 327 327 422 ..422 422 327 413 422 422 328 32S 328 328 328 328 422 328 328 422 422 422 328 413 422 422 328 328 329 334 32S 332 334 329 422 330 329 329 330 Radish, Pests and Diseases Quantity to Sow ... Seed, Germination of Seeds, Saving Soil Time to reach Maturity Uses Varieties of When Ready for Use When to Sow Winter Rampion Botanical Name ... Culture Duration Foreign Names Gathering the Crop History and Uses ... Native Habitat Natural Order Rhubarb Botanical Name . . . Duration Exhibition Notes ... Forcing Foreign Names Gathering the Crop General Culture ... History Longevity of Seeds Manures Native Habitat Natural Order Planting Propagation Quantity to Sow ... Pests and Diseases... Seeds, Germination of Soil Time to reach Maturity Uses Varieties of When Ready for Use When to Sow Ridging Soils Rocambole Botanical Name Culture INDEX. 491 PAGE Rocambole, Duration 340 Foreign Names 340 Gathering the Crop 340 History 340 Longevity of Seeds 422 Natural Order 340 Native Habitat 341) Quantity to Sow 422 Seed, Germination of ... 422 Time to reach Maturity 422 Uses 340 When to Plant or Sow ... 422 When Ready for Use ... 422 Rosemary 340 Botanical Name 340 Culture 341 Duration 341 Foreign Names 340 Gathering the Crop 341 History 341 Longevity of Seeds 423 Native Habitat 341 Natural Order 341 Quantity to Sow 423 Seed, Germination of ... 423 Soil 341 Time to reach Maturity 423 Usee 341 When Ready for Use ... 423 When to Sow or Plant . . . 423 Rue 347 Botanical Name 347 Culture 348 Duration 347 Foreign Names 347 Gathering the Crop 348 History 347 Longevity of Seeds 423 Native Habitat 347 Natural Order 347 Quantity to Sow 423 Seed, Germination of ... 423 Soil 348 Time to reach Maturity 423 Uses 348 When to Sow or Plant ... 423 When Ready for Use ... 423 Runner Bean 342 1'AGK Sage 348 Botanical Name 348 Culture 349 Duration 348 Foreign Names 348 Gathering the Crop ... 349 History 34~8 Longevity of Seeds ... 423 Native Habitat 348 Natural Order 348 Quantity to Sow 423 Seed, Germination of ... 423 Soil 349 Time to reach Maturity 423 Uses 349 When Ready for Use ... 423 When to Sow or Plant . . . 423 Salsafy Botanical Name Culture Duration Exhibition Notes Foreign Names History Lifting and Storing Longevity of Seeds Manures Native Habitat Natural Order Pests and Diseases... Quantity to Sow ... Seed, Germination of Seeds, Saving Soil Time to reach Maturity Uses Varieties of When Ready for Use When to Sow Savory Botanical Names ... Culture Duration Foreign Names Gathering the Crop History Longevity of Seeds Native Habitat 4«>l2 INDEX. PAGE Savory, Natural Order .. 352 Quantity to Sow 423 Seed, Germination of ... 423 Time to reach Maturity 423 When to Sow or Plant.. 423 When Ready for Use .. 423 Savoy 353 Botanical Name 353 Culture 355 Duration 353 Exhibition Notes 355 Foreign Names 353 History 353 Longevity of Seeds 423 Native Habitat 353 Natural Order 353 Pests and Diseases 70 Seed, Germination of .. 423 Seeds, Saving 53 Time to reach Maturity 423 Uses 354 Varieties of 417 When Ready for Use .. 423 When to Sow 423 Scorzonera 355 Botanical Name 355 Culture 356 Duration 355 Exhibition Notes 356 Foreign Names 355 History 355 Longevity of Seeds 423 Native Habitat 355 Natural Order 355 Pests and Diseases 70 Quantity to Sow 423 Seed, Germination of .. 423 Seeds, Saving 57 Time to reach Maturity 423 Uses 356 Varieties of 416 When Ready for Use .. 423 When to Sow 423 Seakale 356 Blanching 361 Botanical Names 3*56 Duration 356 Exhibition Notes 361 Seakale, Forcing Foreign Names Gathering the Crop General Culture History Longevity of Seeds Manures Native Habitat Natural Order Pests and Diseases Planting Plantation, Duration of Propagation Quantity to Sow Seed, Germination of ... Seeds, Saving Soil Time to reach Maturity Uses Varieties of When Ready for Use ... When to Sow Seaweed Seed, Saving Sowing Store Seeds, Longevity of ... 52, Quantities to Sow Time taken to Germinate Seedlings, Treatment of ... Shallot Botanical Name Culture Duration Exhibition Notes Gathering of Crop History Manures Native Habitat Natural Order Pests and Diseases Propagation Soil Uses Varieties of Shelter for Vegetable Garde Site for Vegetable Garden Skirret PAGE 360 356 361 359 357 423 358 356 356 70 358 361 358 423 423 57 358 423 357 416 423 423 39 53 50 60 420 420 420 52 362 362 364 362 363 363 362 363 362 362 70 363 362 362 417 n 2 2 364 INDEX. 403 PAGE Skii-ret, Botanical Names 364 Culture 361 Duration 364 History 364 Longevity of Seeds 423 Native Habitat 364 Natural Order 364 Pests and Diseases 70 Quantity to Sow 423 Seed, Germination of ... 423 Seeds, Saving 57 Time to reach Maturity 423 Uses 364 When Ready for Use . . . 423 When to Sow 423 Soil Amelioration 25 Testing 1 for Humus 19 Testing for Lime in ... 19 Testing Solubility of ... 19 Testing for Water 19 Soils 16 Chalking ' 20 Clay . 16 Claying; 19 Colour of 18 Digging 24 Loamy ... 16, 17 Nitrification of 25 Old Garden 18 Paring and Burning ... 20 Peaty 18 Ridging 23 Sandy 17 Trenching 20 Sorrel 365 Botanical Name 365 Culture 365 Duration 365 Foreign Names 365 Gathering the Crop 366 History 365 Longevity of Seeds 423 Native Habitat 365 Natural Order 365 Quantity to Sow 423 Seed, Germination of ... 423 Time to reach Maturity 423 Uses 365 PAGE Sorrel, When Ready for Use 423 When to Sow or Plant... 423 Spearmint 258 Spinach 366 Botanical Name 366 Duration 366 Exhibition Notes 369 Foreign Names 366 Gathering the Crop ... 368 History 366 Longevity of Seeds ... 423 Manures' 366 Native Habitat 366 Natural Order 366 Pests and Diseases 70 Quantity to Sow 423 Summer 367 Seed, Germination of . . . 423 Seeds, Saving 57 Time to reach Maturity 423 Uses 366 Varieties 418 When Ready for Use ... 423 When to Sow 423 Winter 367 Summer Savory 352 Table of Sowings, etc. ... 420 Tansy 369 Botanical Name 369 Culture 369 Duration 369 Foreign Names 369 Gathering the Crop ... 369 History 369 Longevity of Seeds ... 423 Native Habitat 369 Natural Order 369 Quantity to Sow or Plant 423 Seed, Germination of ... 423 Time to reach Maturity 423 Uses 369 When Ready for Use ... 423 When to Sow or Plant... 423 Tarragon 370 Botanical Name 370 Culture 370 494 INDEX. Tarragon, Duration Foreign Names Gathering the Crop History Native Habitat Natural Order Soil Time to reach Maturity- Uses When to Plant When Ready for Use ... Thinning out Crops Thyme Botanical Name Culture Duration Foreign Names Gathering the Crop History Longevity of Seeds Native Habitat Natural Order Quantity to Sow Seed, Germination of ... Soil Time to reach Maturity Uses When Ready for Use ... When to Sow or Plant ... Tiles, Cost of Edging Tomato Botanical Name Duration Exhibition Notes Foreign Names Frame Culture Gathering the Crop History Greenhouse Culture Longevity of Seeds Manures Native Habitat Natural Order Outdoor Culture Pests and Diseases Planting Seed Sowing Germination of PAGE PAGE 370 Tomato, Seeds, Saving ... 375 370 Time to reach Maturity 423 371 Soil 373 370 Training 378 370 Uses 373 370 Varieties of 418 370 When Ready for Use ... 423 423 When to Sow 423 370 Tools 58 423 423 53 Trenching Soils 22 Tropseolum 383 Botanical Name 383 371 Culture 384 371 Duration 383 371 Foreign Names 383 371 Gathering the Crop 384 371 History 383 372 Native Habitat 383 371 Natural Order 383 423 Time to reach Maturity 423 371 Uses 384 371 Varieties of 418 423 423 371 When Ready for Use ... 423 When to Plant 423 423 Turnip 385 371 Botanical Name 38.3 423 Culture 386 423 Culture for Exhibition... 388 14 Duration 385 372 Exhibition Notes 389 372 Forcing 387 372 Foreign Names 385 383 Gathering the Crop 386 372 History 385 378 Longevity of Seeds 423 383 Manures 385 372 Native Habitat 385 375 Natural Order 385 423 Pests and Diseases 70 373 Quantity of Seeds to Sow 423 372 Seed, Germination of ... 423 372 Seeds, Saving 57 380 Soil 385 70 Time to reach Maturity 423 377 Uses 385 375 Varieties of 418 423 When Ready for Use ... 423 INDEX. 495 PAGE Turnip, When to Sow ... 423 Turnip Cabbage 243 Varieties of Vegetables ... 398 Vegetable Marrow 389 Botanical Name 389 Culture for Exhibition... 393 Duration 390 Foreign Names 389 History 390 Longevity of Seeds ... 423 Native Habitat 390 Natural Order 390 Modes of Growing ... 390 Pests and Diseases 70 Planting 392 Seed, Germination of ... 423 Seed, Saving 57 Sowing 392 Soils and Manures ... 390 Time to reach Maturity 423 Training 392 Uses 390 Vegetable Marrow, Varieties of When Read}' for Use When Ready to Sow Vegetable Oyster Vegetables, Packing Retarding Walls, Brick and Rubble. Watering Watercress Botanical Name Culture in Frames Duration Foreign Names Gathering the Crop History in Pots in Streams in Trenches Native Habitat Natural Order... Uses Winter Savory ... 419 423 4-23 350 63 64 11 50 394 394 395 394 394 397 394 395 396 394 394 394 394 352 1WI o> o> ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE PAGE Artichoke, The Globe .. 221 Carrots, Lesson in Thinning 51 Asparagus .. 123 Cauliflower, Autumn Giant 177 Forcing- in Frame . . . .. 128 Chicory, Cichorium intybus 238 Club-root Disease 106 Bacterial Potato Disease . . 101 Cucumber, Telegraph 201 Tomato Disease 100 Rochford's Telegraph Bean, Prizewinner Runner 343 facing 206 Long Pod Broad facinsr 142 Cucumber Leaf Blotch ... 108 Beet, Long Red .. 136 Celery 183 Market Favourite ... . . 134 Black Scab Potato Disease 104 Dart Moth 80 Spot Tomato Disease .. 116 Devil's Coach-horse Beetle 425 Broccoli, Chappel's Lai g> e Diamond Back Moth 81 Cream .. 150 Digging Land, Mode of ... 24 Leamington .. 148 Drains, Diagram of 8 Purple Sprouting ... .. 146 Sections 10 Brown Stripe Tomato Disease 102 Brussels Sprouts . . 153 Egg Fruit 214 Eelworm Disease 82 Cabbage Aphis .. 74 Butterflies .. 76 Fence, Open Pale 13 Earliest of All .. 157 Sketch of Oak 12 Fly - 75 Moth 77 Gourds 226 Capsicums .. 164 and Pumpkins facing 224 Cardoon, The 166 Ground Beetle 432 Carrot. Intermediate .. 172 Shorthorn .. 175 Handlights 5!) Sutton's Favourite . . 170 Hawk Flies 427 INDEX. 497 PAGE Heart and Dart Moth ... 83 Horseradish ... facing 407 Ichneumon Fly Indian Corn Cobs Jerusalem Artichoke Kale, Bobbie's Victoria ... Lacewing Fly Ladybird Beetle Leek, Bulbous-rooted Musselburgh Lettuce, Commodore Nutt Magnum Bonum Cos . . . Mint .; Mouse Trap Mushroom Bed Outdoors... Section of Ridge Mustard and Cress Onion, Ailsa Craig Cranston's Excelsior ... Giant Rocea Rousham Park Sutton's Al White Lisbon Onions, A Good Crop of ... Grown with Potash Grown without Potash... " Rope "of Parsnip, Tender and True 428 233 236 140 429 430 245 248 251 253 257 85 265 263 267 277 275 273 278 281 283 409 27 28 279 289 288 14 90 293 295 The Student Paths, Sections of ... Pea Beetle Early Giant Maincrop Marrowfat Peerless Marrowfat facing 412 Protector 303 Result of iManuring ... 40 Quite Content 306 Ringleader 307 Sutton's Prince of Peas 297 Sutton's Masterpiece ... 299 PAGE Pea, The Gladstone . . . 301 Trainer 304 Weevil 90 Plan of Half-acre Garden. . . 5 of One-acre Garden ... 3 of Quarter-acre Garden 5 Potato, British Queen ... 315 Clamp 322 Eldorado 311 Evergood 321 King Edward VII. ... 415 Lim Gray 323 Maincrop facing 16 Propagating the 317 Satisfaction 313 Scab 114 Second Early ... facing 35 Snowdrop 319 Sprouting Seed 318 Sir John Llewellyn ... 325 Vicar of Laleham 310 Radish, French Breakfast 416 Red Turnip 331 Sutton's White Forcing 333 Wood's Early Frame ... 329 Rhubarb, Myatt's Victoria 337 Champagne 339 Ridging, Mode of 23 Runner Bean Training Trellis 346 Salsafy Savoy, Drumhead Tom Thumb Scorzonera Seakale, Forced Spinach, Round ... St. Mark's Fly ... facing Thinning Crops Tiger Beetle Moth Tomato Culture in Frame Tomatoes in Greenhouse... Sunrise Trained to a Wall Trained to Stakes 351 354 417 356 360 367 93 54 431 95 379 376 374 380 382 +98 INDEX. Trenching, Diagram of Tropaeolum tuberosum Turnip, Early Milan... Snowball Early White Stone, Six Weeks Vegetable Marrow, Green PAGE 22 . 384 . 387 . 389 or facing 43 Long 391 Vegetable Marrow, Long White 393 Moore's Cream 410 Vegetables, Collection of... 59 Cottager's Exhibit 402 Walls, Sections of 11 Yellow LTnder-wing Moth... 98 COLOURED PLATES. Vegetable Pests — Crane Fly and Leather Jacket Grub, Thrips and Larva frontispiece Asparagus Beetle and Larva facing 68 Celery Fly and Larva facing 68 Carrot Fly facing 78 Onion Fly and Larva facing 7^ Vegetable Pests — Turnip F'lea Beetle and Larva facing 78 Cockchafer Beetle and Larva facing 86 Millepedes facing 86 Turnip Sawfly and Larva facing 97 Click Beetle and Wireworm facing 97 (ft - % By VS^fe"^? To Appointment HfBnlBfjrHr H.U. The KING. APTERITE The Soil Fumigant. The conspicuous success which has attended the introduction of Apterite is entirely due to its merits as a Soil Insecticide. It has now become the Sheet Anchor of the Progressive Gardener and Agriculturist, and at all times is a profitable investment. WIREWORMS, Grubs, and all soil pests, are at once destroyed, and the plants, released from their unwelcome attentions, thrive and come to maturity, instead of becoming food for a hungry host of insect marauders. REDUCED PRICES 1 lb. Tin, 9d. 7 lb. Tin, 2/- 14 lb. Tin, 3/6 LARGER QUANTITIES AT LOWER RATES. OF AGENTS EVERYWHERE. Sole Mfrs., Willm. Cooper & Nephews, Berkhamsted. 500 ADVERTISEMENTS. PRACTICAL GARDENING WORKS. Crown 8vo, bound in cloth, 480 pages, 64 Plates and 40 explanatory Diagrams. 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