.*,-! a ■«>y.s#»:,'). 5382 U5 Cornell University Library HF5382.5.U5A35 Descriptions of occupations / THE MARTIN P. CATHERWOOD LIBRARY OF THE NEW YORK STATE SCHOOL OF INDUSTRIAL AND LABOR RELATIONS AT CORNELL UNIVERSITY The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924000451264 UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF LABOR DESCRIPTIONS OF OCCUPATIONS BOOTS AND SHOES HARNESS AND SADDLERY TANNING PREPARED FOR THE UNITED STATES EMPLOYMENT SERVICE BY THE UNITED STATES BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICS WASHINGTON GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 1918 ILK S INDEX A. Pag6. Assembler. {See Checker.) Assembler, case. {See Laborer.) Assembler, for pulling-over machine. 17 Assembler, turn shoes. {See Assembler for pulling-over ma- chine.) B. Bark grinder 63 Barrer. 17 Bater. {See Drencher.) Beamster 63 Beater and slasher, welt 17 Bed-machine operator. , 17 Beveler. {See Featherer. ) Blacker. {See Tannery worker.) Blacker, bottom. {See Bla,cker or stainer, sole.) Blacker, edge, over welt stitches. {See Blacker or stainer, sole.) Blacker, heel, hand. {See Blacker or stainer, sole.) Blacker, heel, machine 18 Blacker or stainer, sole 18 Blacker, raw edges of uppers, hand 18 Blacker, shank. {See Blacker or stainer, sole.) Blacker, top lift. (iSee Blacker or stainer, sole.) Bleacher 63 Breaker 63 Breiaster, heel 19 Brusher, edge, after edge setting. {See Duster and gummer.) Buffer (boote and shoes) 21 Buffer (harness and saddlery) . (See Finisher.) Buffer (tanning) 63 Builder, heel, hand 19 BuUder, heel, machine 19 Bundler, {See Tannery worker.) Burnisher, heel .-- 19 Burnisher, shank , : 20 Burnisher, stitch. {See Separator, stitch.) Butter, tap 20 Buttoner.... 20 Button fastener 20 Buttonhole maker 20 C. Caser, insole. {See Caser, outsole.) Caser, last. {See Picker, last.) Caser, lining. {See Caser, upjper.) Caser, outsSe ppg^gi'^^f. MBllSriilAlANO LABOR RELATIONS -Cornell University 21 Page. Caser, upper 21 Cementer, bottom 21 Cementer, channel. , 21 Cementer, for folding, hand 21 Cementer, for folding, machine 22 Cementer, outsole 22 Cementer, outsole and tap. {See Cementer, outsole.) Chalker, last. 22 Channeler, outsole or insole 22 Channel turner-down. {See Layer, channel.) Checker, upper 22 Chore man. (See Tannery worker.) Cleaner, lining - 33 Cleaner, welt stitch 23 Closer, button fly to top 23 Closer, foxing and vamp. {See Closer, heal seam.) Closer, heel seam . . — 23 Closer, lining, with heel stay. {See Lining maker.) Closer-on 23 Closer, top 24 Clother-in,. insole 24 Cobbler , 24 Collar maker 60 Collar stuffer . . 60 Coloring-wheel man. {See Tannery worker.) Compressor, heel... 1 24 Compressor, outsole.. ^ , 24 Compressor, top lift. {See Compressor, heel.) Counter. {See Tannery worker.) Creaser, vamp 25 Crimper, blucher vamp 25 Cripple boy 25 Cropper 64 Crowner ^ 25 Crust sorter 64 Currier. {See Stuffer.) Cutter, box-toe 25 Cutter, coUar.. 60 Cutter, coimter . . .• 26 Cutter, cripple. (S'ee Cutter, vamp and whole shoe, hand.) Cutter, harness 60 Cutter (harness and saddlery) "." 60 Cutter, heel lift, hand " 26 Cutter, heel lift, machine _ 26 Cutter, insole and tap l]\l"" 27 Cutter, insole doubler. {See Cutter, lining.) Cutter, lining. 27 Gutter, outsole ^ .'. _['[ 27 Cutter, riding saddle " 60 Cutter, shank welt. (iSee Cutter, insole.) - Cutter, top, hand. {See Cutter, vamp and whole shoe, hand.) Cutter, top lift 27 Cutter, top, machine. {See Cutter, vamp and whole shoe, machine.) Fage. Cutter, trjmming 28 Cutter, vamp and whole shoe, hand •_ . 28 Cutter, vamp and whole shoe, machine 28 D. Damper. (See Tannery worker.) Dipper. (See Tannery worker.) Doubler, insole 29 Doubler, upper. 29 Drencher 64 Dresser, shoe 29 Dry dip man. (See Tannery worker.) Duster and gummer 29 E. Embosser (tanning) 64 Embosser, top facing 29 Expediter. (See Burnisher, heel.) Eyeleter 30 F- Fair stitcher . 30 Featherer... 30 Filler, bottom ..^ 30 Filler, hole (in heel) 30 Finisher, buttonhole 31 Finisher (harness and saddlery) 60 Finisher. (See also Tannery worker.) Fitter, harness *. 60 Fitter, top to lining 31 Flesher. (See Breaker; also Shaving-machine operator.) Flesher, sole at heel 31 Fleshing-machine operator. (See Breaker; also Shaving-ma- chine operator. Folder, hand 31 Folder, machine 31 Foreman (harness and saddlery) 61 G. Gemmer, insole, machine 31 Glazer 64 Gouger, heel lift 32 Goueer, toe - - - 32 Grader and skiver, insole, machine. (See Grader and skiver, outsole.) Grader and skiver, outsole, machine. — 32 Grader, "heeling." (See Grader, top hft.) Grader, top Hft , 32 Grinder, heel nail 33 Gummer and pohsher, outsole. (See Duster and gummer.) Gummer, heel. (See Duster and gummer.) H. Hair baler. (See Tannery worker.) Hair drier. (See Tannery worker.) Pace Hair washer. {See Tannery worker.) Hand buflFer. {See Slicker "buffer.) Handler. {See Tannery worker.) Handler, outsole-, for assemblers 33 Handler, shoe, at steam dryer ^3 Hand stitcher.. ^^ Harness maker ^^ Heeler - 33 Heeler's helper 33 Helper (harness and saddlery) 61 Hooker. {See Eyeleter.) Hooker. {See Tannery worker.) I. Inspector, after pulling over 34 Inspector,, before packing — - 34 Inspector, bottom, after finishing — - 34 Inspector, McKay - 34 Inspector, tack 34 Inspector, vamp 34 J. Jack-machine operator. {See Staker.)" Jointer , 35 K. "Knifer-up." {See Jointer.) L. Labeler, carton 35 Laborer (boots and shoes) ^ 35 Lacer, hand 35 Lacer, machine 35 Laster, first, turn shoes 35 Laster, second, turn shoes, hand 36 Laster, side, hand 36 Laster, side, machine. {See Lasting-machine operator, consoli- dated hand method.) Laster, " turn" machine . 36 Lasting-machine operator, consohdated hand method 37 Layer, channel ....... 37 Layer, sole 37 Leach man.. 65 Leach rvmner. {See Leach man.) Leveler. 37 Lime puller. {See Limer.) Limer -. 65 Lining maker 38 Liquorman. 65 Liquor runner. {See Liquor man.) Loft man. {See Tannery worker.) Lumper. {See Cripple boy.) Lumper. {See Tannery worker.) M. Machine hand 61 Machine operator 1 " ' " "] 52 Machine whitener. {See Whiteixing-machine operator. ) Marker. {See Tannery worker.) Marker, button-row 38 Marker, eyelet-row ...W..\. 38 Marker, lining __ V.V.V.V.V. 38 Marker, shank. _; '_ 33 Marker, upper size. {See Marker, lining.) Marker, vamp, for tip. {See Marker, hning:) Matcher, uppers, insoles, and counters 39 Mater out, for inspector. {See Mater out, for treer.) Mater out, for treer 39 Measurer 65 Mill man _ 65 Molder, comiter . 39 Molder, outside (turn shoes) 39 Molder, outside edge (turn shoes) . . 39 Molder, outsole and insole : 39 Nailer, case 40 Nailer, heel seat. ' 40 Naumkeag operator 40 P. Pack changer. {See Pack hoister.) Packer. {See Tannery worker.) Packer (boots and shoes) 40 Pack hoister J :. 66 Pack puller. {See Pack hoister.) Pad hand 62 Painter (tanning) 66 Painter, size, upper 40 Paraffiner, outsole or tap. {See Blacker or stainer, sole.) Paster, button-fly stay 41 Paster, heel lining 41 Paster, heel pad. {See Paster, heel lining.) Paster, heel pin. {See Paster, heel lining.) Paster, side lacirig. {See Fitter, top to fining.) Paster, sock lining. {See Paster, heel lining.) Pattern boy 41 Perforator ..^ 41 Picker, last 42 Pickler 66 Pickle sorter 66 Pofisher, bottom 42 Pounder, after lasting 42 Pounder, button top 42 Presser, insole, {^ee Laborer.) 8 Pressman r-- 66 Puller, insole tacks ~ Puller, last ..- 42 Puller, lasting tacks. {See Puller, insole tacks.) Puller-over, hand ^^ Puller-over, machine - ^^ Puncher, tip. (See Perforator.) Purer. (See Drencher.) Pusher, rack. (See Laborer.) Putter out 66 R. Eander, shank 43 Kander, welt. (See Featherer.) Rawhide trimmer. (See Tannery worker.) Reeler. (See Tannery worker.) Reel man. (See Tannery worker.) Reinforcer, insole, welt 44 Repairer, cracked-channel . - 44 Repairer, dull shoe: (See Repairer, russet.) Repairer, patent-leather tip 44 Repairer, russet 44' Ripper 67 Roller (tanning) 67 Roller, counter - 44 Roller, "offal" - 45 Rounder, outsole and insole 45 Rounder, rough 45 Rubber-down, seam.. 45 Rubber, outsole channel stitch : 45 S. Saddlehand. 62 Saddle maker 62 Saddler. (See Saddle maker.) Scourer (tanning) 67 Scourer, bottom. (See Buffer.) Scourer, heel 46 Scourer, heel breast 46 Scoiu-er, patent-leather tip 46 Scourer, shank. (See Buffer.) Scourer, top lift 46 Scrub-wheel man. (See Tannery worker.) Seamer, foxing and vamp. (See Qpser, heel seam.) Seamer, vamp extension. 46 Seasoner. (See Stuff er.) Separator, stitch 47 Setter, edge. 47 Sewer, McKay 47 Sewer, turn. 47 Shanker out, turn shoes 47 Paee. Shaver, heel. (See Trimmer, heel.) Shaving-machine operator 67 Shellacker, box toe. {See Assembler, for pulhng-over ma- chine.) Shipper 48 Sizer, upper and counter.. 48 Skiver, counter edge. (See Skiver, insolie.) Skiver, counter end. (See Skiver, insole.) Skiver, "heehng." (See Skiver, "offal.") Skiver, insole 48 Skiver, "offal" !"!!!!'"'" 48 Skiver, outsole. 48 Skiver, tap. (See Skiver, insole.) Skiver, top lift. (See Skiver, iasole.) Skiver, upper :. 49 Skiver, welt end. (See Skiver, insole.) Shcker buffer 67 Slugger... - 49 Soaker. (See Tannery worker.) Softener. (See Staker.) Sorter. (See Crust sorter.) Sorter and grader, insole. (See Sorter and grader, outsole.) Sorter and grader, outsole 49 Sorter and grader, top hft. (See_ Sorter and grader, outsole.) Sorter and packer, counter 49 Sorter, "heeling" 60 Sorter, last 50 Sorter, skiving. (See Sorter, "heeling.") Sorter, upper . 50 Sphcer, outsole and tap. (See Cementer, outsole.) SpHtter 67 Sponger. (See Tannery worker.) Spreader 67 Stacker, counter 50 Stainer, edge. (See Blacker, raw edges of uppers, hand.) Stainer, heel. (See Blacker, heel.) Staker 68 Stamper. (See Tannery worker.) Stamper and slasher, insole 50 Stamper, trade-mark . . 1 51 Stapler, box toe 51 Stapler, shank 51 Stayer, button-fly seam. (See Stayer, heel seam.) Stayer, heel seam. 51 Stenciler, cartons 51 Stenciler, case 52 Stitcher, backstay :- 52 Stitcher, box toe. 52 Stitcher, button-fly facing 52 Stitcher, button-fly tape .... 52 Stitcher, eyelet row 52 Stitcher, Goodyear 53 Stitcher, insole lip 53 Stitcher, McKay. (See Sewer, KcKay.) 88049°— 18-^ — 2 la Faee. Stitcher, side facing. (,See Lining maker.) Stitcher, tip ........: - 53 Stitcher, toe lining - — S3 Stitcher, tongue. - - ^3 Stitcher, top .■.:.:..-- 54 Stitcher, top facing. (See Lining maker.) Stoner. (See Burnisher, heel.) Stoner out. (See Staker.) Striker out. (See Staker.) Stringer. (See Tannery Worker.) Striper, bottom edge l - 54 Stripper. (S'ge Tannery worker.) Stripper, back. (See Stitcher, backstay.) Stripper, fiber board. (See Trimmer, fiber-board edge. ) Stripper, heel-^trap cover 54 Stutter 68 Sweater - . - - 68 T. Tacker , --- 68 Tacker, insole-to-last, hand - - 54 Tacker, outside, machine . . - 55 Tacker, outsole and tap. (See Tacker, rand.) Tacker, rand 55 Tacker, shank piece. (See Tacker, rand.) Tacker, shank welt. (See Tacker, rand.) Tanner, bark — 68 Tanner, chrome 68 Tanner, quebracho '. 69 Tanner, sumac ,. 69 Tannery, worker . 69 Temperer, outsole and counter, turn shoes 55 Throater, vamp ., 55 Tier, upper - 56 Toggler. (See Tannery worker.) Treer, hand- 56 Treer, machine .,.. 56 Trimmer. (See Cropper.) Trimmer, edge 56 Trimmer, fiber-board edge . 56 Trimmer, heel.. 67 Trimmer, "heeling" 67 Trimmer, heel seat . 67 Trimmer, inseam, and lasting-tack puller, hand 57 Trimmer, inseam, and lasting-tack puller, machine 1 .' 57 Trimjner, lasted upper toe .. . 58 Trucker. (See Tannery worker.) Turner, channel 68 Turner, insole lip. (See Turner, channel.) 11 u. Faee. Under trimmer, (See Stitcher, top.) Unhairing-machine operator 69 Untoggler. (See Tannery worker.) V. Vamper 68 W. Washer .- -_. 69 Weigher - - - . . 69 Welter, Goodyear 58 Welter, McKay 59 Wetter, box toe. - 59 Wetter, channel lip^ - 59 Wetter, tap and sole -.. 59 Wet wheeter. {See Wheel buffer.) Wheel buffer ..- - 70 Wheeler, bottom. (See Striper, bottom edge.) Wheeler, stitch. (See Separator, stitch.) Wheel man. (See Tannery worker.) Whitening-machine operator ." - 70 Wool puller .*. -, 70 Y. Yardman. (See Pack hoister.) CODE WORDS Code word. Abuse. Ball... Balm. Ban. . . Bang. . Banjo. Barge. Baron. Basic. . Basin.. Bask.. Baton. Beam. . Bear. . Beast. . Beech. Bowl. . Burk. . Bum.. Burst. . Bush. . Buzz . . Care.. . Cargo . . Carol.. Carom. Carry.. Cart... Carve. . Case Cash Cast Cat Catch. . Cause. . Cave... Cavy. . Cease . . Cedar. . Cede... Cell.... Cent... Chafe.. Page. 17 17 17 17 18 18 18 19 19 19 19 19 20 20 20 20 20 63 63 63 63 63 21 21 21 21 22 22 22 22 22 23 23 33 23 24 24 24 24 25 25 25 26 Code word. Chaff. Chain. Chair. Chalk. Chant. Chap.. Char. . Cocoa. Cod... Cog. . . Cofl. . . Coin... Comb. . Creep. . Crest. . Crew. . Crib... Crick.. Crisp . . Crock- . Crook- . Cubic. Daily.. Dairy.. Daisy. . Dally.. Dial... Easy.. Eat... Even. . Fagot. . Fan. . . Faint.. Fair... Fairy.. Faith-. Fake.. Faker. . Fall... Fife... Fight.. Flock.. Garb.. Page. Code word. Page. 26 26 27 27 28 28 28 60 60 60 60 60 60 64 64 21 23 24 25 27 27 25 29 29 29 29 64 29 30 64 30 30 30 30 31 31 31 31 31 60 61 61 32 Gash. . Gasp . . Gate . . Gaudy. Glee... Glide.. Hail... Hair. . Hale.. Hare . . Hark.. Hart-. Has Iced Icy Idea Ideal . . Ides Idiom - . Jabot. . Lamp . . Lanco . . Land . . Lank . . Lap Lapel . . Lapse . . Larch . . Lard Large . . Lark Larry. . Lee Left Leg Lest Maize . . Major. . Make . . . Maker. . Male Mall.... Malt. . . 32 32 32. 33 31 64 33 33 33 61 33 61 61 34 34 34 34 34 34 35 35 35 35 35 35 36 36 37 37 37 37 38 65 65 65 36 38 38 38 38 39 39 39 (12) 13 Code words — Concluded. Code word. Man.. Mange Meter. Mew. . Mist. . Mix -. Mite.- Nai Na: Nest.. Parch. Pare . . Park. Parry . Parse . Part.. Party. Pass. . Past. . Paste - Pat.. Picot. Pity-. Pont. . Pony. PooL. Pop.. Poppy Porch . Post.. Press . Radio . Raft.. Rag.. Rage. . Rafl.. Rain. . Rainy. Raise. Rajah . Rake . . RaUy. Real... Reahn. Page. 39 39 61 62 65 39 65 40 40 40 40 41 41 41 42 42 42 42 42 43 43 41 62 66 66 66 66 66 66 41 42 43 44 44 44 44 44 45 45 45 45 45 67 67 Code word. Saucy. Save . . Saver. Saw. . Say . . . Scab . . Scald. Scale . Scalp . Scaly. Scamp Scan . . Scant. Scar.. Scarf . Scath. Scene. Scent. Scion. Scoff.. Scold - Scoop . Scoot. , Scope. Score . Scorn- Scot. . Scour. Scout. Scow . Scowl. Scrap. Screw. Scrip . Scrub. Scull.. Sea Seal.. Seam. Seamy Sight. Sigma. Solid.. Some. Page. 46 46 46 47 47 47 47 48 48 48 48 48 49 49 49 49 50 50 50 50 50 51 51 61 51 51 52 52 52 52 52 52 53 53 53 53 53 54 54 54 62 62 46 67 Code word. Sons Sooti Sound . South. Sower. Sown . . Space.. Spake. Span .. Tale... Talk... Tall... Tally. . Talon.. Tank.. Tap... Tape.. Taper. . Tar. . . Tarry. . Tart... Task. . Taste.. Taunt. Taut.. Total.. Totem. Touch. Tough. Tour.. Tower. Track . Unit... Vague . Wag... Wager - Wagon. Waif... Wail .. Wedge. Week.. Weigh . Weld.. Well... DESCRIPTIONS OF OCCUPATIONS: BOOTS AND SHOES, HAR- NESS AND SADDLERY, AND TANNING PREPARED FOR THE UNITED STATES EMPLOYMENT SERVICE BY THE UNITED STATES BUREAU OE LABOR STATISTICS. INTRODUCTORY STATEMENT These descriptions of occupations are based on investigations, in- cluding priA'ate interviews and correspondence, extending over prac- tically the entire United States. The outstanding fact developed by these investigations is that there are few standard or generally accepted occupational names or definitions. It has been necessary, therefore, for the Bureau of Labor Statistics to define certain occupational terms and classifications and to assume the acceptance of these definitions by those using the de- scriptions. The bureau is fully awiare of the fact that some impor- tant occupations have probably been omitted and that in some cases subdivisions may have been carried too far. These faults can be cor- rected only by means of suggestions and criticisms arising from the use of the descriptions in filling positions. The users of these descriptions are urged to send to the Bureau of Labor Statistics all suggestions and criticisms as they arise, so that eventually there may be developed a national standard of occupa- tional descriptions. Acknowledgrinent The Bureau of Labor Statistics wishes to thank all those who have contributed to the compilation of these descriptions. So many in- dividuals and representatives of various organizations have been consulted that it is impossible to make special mention of such services. (15) PREFATORY STATEMENT nytPORTANT The objects of these descriptions are to furnish definitions of the various occu- pations, so that specifications for help may be made uniform, and to furnish a means by which the prospective employee may be informed as to the nature of the work he will be expected to do. Each occupation has been described under the most generally accepted title. The descriptions have been carefully prepared with the view of stating clearly and briefly what each occupation requires in the way of performance and guali- fications, so that a foreman or employment manager can readily specify the help wanted and can pick the worker best fitted to fill the position. Without such standard definitions advertisements and appeals from the vari- ous Government departments or from a central employment agency would lose their effectiveness, especially when the recruiting is nation wide. The statement of actual requirements under the heading of " schooling " does not have reference to those already working, but should be interpreted to mean that no one should enter the specified position at the present time without having the equivalent of the stated schooling. " Common school " signifies the com- pletion of the common school course. Directions for Using Descriptions and Code Words INSEZ: In order to find any given occupational description use the index. CODE WORDS: Each description has a code word which, when communicated to any person who has access to these descriptions of occupations, will enable him to ascertain exactly what is called for by referring to the description indicated by the code word. (See Code words.) If an employee is wanted who' has training sufficient to do work in any two or more occupations described, the code words of these descriptions should be com- bined to indicate the combination of qualifications; for example: The code word designating a BrRNISHEB, HEEL, and a BURNISHEE, SHANK (see pages 19 and 20), would be BATON-BOWL. (16) BOOTS AND SHOES ASSEXTBLER. {See Checker.) ASSEMBIEB, CASE. (See laborer.) ASSEMBLEB, FOB FTTLLIKG-OVEB MACHINE ABUSE Description: The assembler, having received the last with the insole tacked on it, the counter, and the corresponding upper which has come from the stitching department, wets the leather, shellacs the toe box or tip, or both, places the toe box and counter between the lining and the upper, and then puts the last inside the upper. Having centered the upper on the last he drives two tacks with the back of the pincers, one into the last through the heel seam and the other through a bent-over edge of the upper into the heel seat to hold the upper in place. In some factories an automatic tack-driving machine is used, but the occupation is essen- tially hand work. The duties of the assembler are often divided among several operatives, each doing a specified part. The work is light, but the operator stands continuously in one place. Men and women are employed. Qualifications: Average ability. Schooling: Common school. ASSEMBLEE, THEN SHOES. (See Assembler, for pnlling-over machine.) BAEEEE BALI Description: The opiration consists in sewing, with a special machine, several short rows of parallel cross or tying stitches for strengthening the shoe at the lower end of the eyelet or button fly next to the vamp. The operator works in a sitting position. Women and girls are em- ployed. Qualifications: Average ability. BEATEE AND SLASHEB, WELT BALM Description: The welt, as stitched to the shoe, is irregular. To make it stand out evenly it is guided around the welt beater under a vibrating hammer which flattens it out. Where the welt is curved around the toe It is tight on the outer edge.- As the operator reaches this part he brings a slashing device into operation which makes a series of little cuts diagonally around the outer edge of the welt, thus relieving the tension. The work is light but the operator stands continuously in one place. Men and boys are employed, ftualiflcations: Average ability. BED-MACHINE OPEEATOE BAN Description: The bed-machine operator places the shoe on the machine and by levers moves a series of wipers (friction pullers) which draw the upper over the edge of the insole at the toe and heel. Some factories designate this as toe and heel lasting. The shoe is placed with the sole up and the operator determines whether the shoe is properly lasted by placing his hand under the toe or heel. The wipers are kept in motion 88049°— 18— 3 (17) 18 until the operator is satisfied that the upper has been wiped Into the desired position. Under the welt system the operator drives a tack through the upper and insole and partly ■ into the last at one side and passes a fine wire from it around the drawn-in upper at the toe to the opposite side of the last, where he drives another tack, around which he winds the wire. The wire holds the toe of the upper in position as drawn in over the last. (Under the McKay system, instead of the wire used on the toe, tacks are used.) The upper at the heel is fastened by tacks driven in by hand. In case the shoe is lasted by the bed machine the side or instep has to be first lasted by hand with pincers or with the side lasting machine. This work is heavy and the operator stands while doing it. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Considerable strength; good judgment; average ability. BEVELEB. (See Featherer.) BLACKER, BOTTOM. (See Blacker or stainer, sole.) BLACKER, EDGE, OVER WELT STITCHES. (See Blacker or stainer, sole.) BLACKER, HEEL, HAND. (See Blacker or stainer, sole.) BLACKER, HEEL, MACHINE BANJO Description: The operator holds the heel of each shoe against tlie slowly revolving brushes of his machine, thus coating it with blacking or stain. The lower edges of the brushes pass through a supply of the liquid stain or blacking as the brushes revolve. The duties are light but the operator stands continuously in one place. Boys and girls are employed. Qualifications: Average ability. BLACKER OR STAINER, SOLE BANG Kindred Occupation: Blacker, raw edges of upper. Description: The duties of this operative are to apply by hand, with the aid of a small brush, blacking, stain, etc., to any designated part of the sole or heel. Care must be taken to cover only the specified part. The operative stands continuously in one place. Women, girls, and boys are employed. Qualifications : Average ability. Schooling: Common school. BLACKER, RAW EDGES OF TIPPERS, HAND BARGE Description: The color of leather is not uniform throughout its thickness; therefore, all raw edges which show in the finished shoe are stained the color of the surface of the leather. This also applies to perforated tips, foxings, etc. The operator, with the use of a hand brush, stains the designated edge or parts by painting the edge surface of the tied bundles. Size painting Is done in the same manner by painting various color stripes across the edge of each bundle, using a different color for each size. The edges of the package of perforated tips are dipped into buckets of stain In order to color the Inside edges of the holes. The duties are light and the operator works In a sitting position. Boys and girls are employed. Schooling: Common school. BLACKER, SHANK. (See Blacker or stainer, sole.) BLACKER, TOP IIFT, (See Blacker or stainer, sole.) 19 BSEASTER, HEEL BABON Description: The heel breaster operates a machine having a knife which cuts to shape and trims evenly the breast or front surface of the heel, cutting it down to the outsole, but so regulated as not to cut into it. The work is moderately heavy and the operator stands continuously in one place. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Good judgment; moderate strength. BRTTSHER, EDGE, AFTER EDGE SETTING. (See Duster dnd gummer.) BUFFER BASIC Kindred Occupations: Naumkeag operator; Top lift scourer; Shank scourer. Description: After the shoe has been bottomed the buffer removes stains, scars, etc., from the sole and gives it a smooth, finished appearance by holding it against a revolving roll or wheel covered with sandpaper or emery paper. A small revolving cone-shaped disk of sandpaper, attached to the machine, enables the operator to scour the curve at the shank. The work is moderately heavy and the operator stands continuously in one place. Men are always employed. Blowers are used, but generally there is some dust. Qualifications: Considerable strength; average ability. B1TII.DER, HEEL, HAND BASIN Descriptibii : The heel builder places her fingers in paste before picking up each lift as it is put in place on the gauge block, and by this means paste is spread on each part as the heel is built. When the heel reaches the desired height a tack is driven through the center with a hammer. Two gauged lifts are placed first in each heel in order to give the concave form to the partes that fit against the shoe. The heels are placed on a board side by side and later put into a press, where they remain until the paste is dry. The work is light but very dirty. The operator works in a sitting position. Women are employed. Qualifications: Average ability. BUILDER, HEEL, MACHINE BASE Description: The heel builder places the cut heel lifts, one at a time, into the mold of the machine and applies a coat of paste to each layer as it is placed in the mold. When the heel has been built to the correct height a foot pedal is pressed which closes the sides of the mold tightly and drives a nail through the pieces to hold them in place. The nails are inserted in the bottom of the mold before the heel is built. By the use of some machines the operator cuts the lifts and builds the heel at the same time. The mold of this machine is in the form of a die with the cutting edge up. The pieces of " heeling " are placed on the sharp edges of this mold. Pressure on a foot lever causes a plunger to force the leather into the mold thereby cutting and placing the heel lift with one operation. Each lift is coated with glue by the use of a hand brush after it is cut into the mold. The completed heels drop out of the bottom of the mold. The work is light, but the operator stands continuously in one place. Men and women are employed. Qualifications: Average ability. BURNISHER, HEEL BATON Description: The final operation on the heel is burnishing. The heel burnisher holds the shoe with his hand in such position that the heel comes in contact with a wheel on the burnishing machine, which gives it 20 a hard, smooth surface. Hot wax is carried to the heel by a small disk and applied by a series of rubbing blows which beat the wax thoroughly into the heel. A revolving brush on the same machine brings the heel to a perfectly smooth surface. This work is moderately heavy and the operator stands continuously in one place. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Average ability. BTTRNISHEB, SHANK BOWI Description: In order to produce a high-grade finish to the shank part of the bottom, the shank burnisher rubs a heated burnishing iron by hand over the surface, thus giving it a very durable finish. The work is moderately heavy and the operator stands continuously in one place. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Average ability. BURNISHER, STITCH. (See Separator, stitch.) BUTTER, TAP BEECH Description: In order to form a smooth and practically Invisible joint where the ends of the tap and shank welt meet, these parts are both skived on the same bevel at their junction. The tap butter feeds one at a time into the machine. They pass under a knife which trims them to the desired bevel. The work is light, but the operator stands con- tinuously in one place. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Average ability. BUTTONER BEAM Description: The buttoner buttons each shoe, an ordinary hook being used for the purpose, in order that the upper may be properly pulled over the last. This shoe is again buttoned before the final packing. The operator usually works standing, but a chair is provided. Boys and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ability to do the work rapidly. BUTTON FASTENER BEAR Description : The upper comes to the button fastener with the place marked for each button. The buttons are fastened on the shoe with either thread or wire. The operator places the upper in position for the first button, starts the machine, and moves the upper by hand to the position marked for each successive button. Care must be used to locate the buttons on the marking or the shoe will not button properly. The operator uses a chair while working. Women are employed. Qualifications: Good eyesight; average ability. Schooling: Common school. BUTTONHOLE MAKER BEAST Description: The upper is received by the buttonhole maker with the location of each buttonhole marked. The machine cuts and works the buttonhole automatically. The operator has only t(j hold the upper in position and press a finger lever for each buttonhole that is cut. The machine stops after it works the hole. The operator works sitting. Women are employed. Qualifications: Good eyesight; average ability. CASER, INSOLE. (See Caser, outsole.) 21 CASER, EAST. (See Picker, last.) CASER, IINING. (See Caser, upper.) CASER, OUTSOIE CARE Kindred Occupation: Insole caser. Description: The outsole, insole, or tap caser receives a tag on which ap- pears a memorandum of the order. This shows the number of pairs by sizes and the shape, quality, and thickness (in irons) of the soles to be used. These soles are selected from storage bins— rights and lefts of each size are placed together and in order by sizes. All soles for each case of shoes are tied in one package. This is moderately heavy work and the operator keeps moving from one bin to another. Men are always em- ployed. Qualifications: Good eyesight; moderate strength; average ability. Schooling: Common school. CASER, TRIMMING. (See Caser, upper.) CASER-TJP, COrNTER AND UPPER. (See Sizer, upper and counter.) CASER, TIPPER CARGO Kindred Occupations: Trimming caser; Lining caser. Description: The upper lining, or trimming caser counts out the correct number of pieces for each case or lot, putting all pieces of each size together and in their order as indicated by the tag for each case. The operator stands, and is also kept moving from one place to another in making the selection. Women and girls are employed. Qualifications: Good eyesight; average ability. Schooling: Common school. CEMENTER, BOTTOM CREW Kindred Occupations: Chaimel cementer; Outsole cementer; Outsole and top cementer. Description: Before laying the outsole the entire bottom of the shoe is coated with cement. To accomplish this the bottom cementer holds it against the cement-covered roll of his machine. The work is moderately light, but the dperator stands continuously. Boys and girls are employed. Qualifications: Average ability. CEMENTER, CHANNEL CAROL Kindred Occupation: Channel layer. Description : The channel cementer coats the channel of the sole with cement to hold the lip down when it is returned to its place over the stitches. The open channel is passed along under the thin edge of a revolving, cement-covered brush. A continuous flow of cement is supplied to this brush from a tank above it. The work is light, but the operator stands continuously. Boys and girls are employed. Qualifications: Average ability. CEMENTER, FOR EOIDING, HAND CAROM Description: The edges of all parts of the upper which are to be folded have already been skived. These parts are now spread on a table, each lapping over the last, with only the skived edge exposed. The hand cementer spreads the cement over these edges with a hand brush. The work is light and the operator uses a chair. Girls are usually employed. Qualifications: Average ability. 22 CEMENTER, FOR FOLDING, MACHINE CARRY Kindred Occupation: Cementer for folding, band. Description: The edges of all parts of the upper which are to be folded have already been skived. The machine cementer places the skived edge which is to be cemented into the feed roll of the machine. This carries It over a small cement-covered roll which revolves in a tank of cement. The operator uses a chair. Girls are usually employed. Qualifications: Average ability. CEMENTER, OriSOIE CART Kindred Occupations: Outsole and top cementer; Bottom cementer. Description: Before placing the outsole on the shoe the outsole cementer coats the flesh side with cement by passing it under a cement-covered roller. Taps and outsoles which are to be united to form one thick sole are each coated with cement in like manner. This is light work but the operator stands continuously. Boys and girls are employed. Qualifications: Average ability. CEMENTER, OTITSOIE AND TAP. (See Cementer, outsole.) CHALKER, LAST CARVE Description: The last chalker paints the toe and heel of each last with a chalky preparation to prevent the upper from sticking to the last and tearing the lining. This is light work, which the operator does standing. Boys and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ability to do the work rapidly. CHANNELER, OUTSOLE OR INSOLE CASE Description: The channeler places the edge of each sole into the channeling machine and guides it around the entire edge, beginning at the heel. The machine cuts little slits or channels into these soles at various angles, de- pending on whether they are welt insoles, turn, or McKay outsoles. The insoles for McKay shoes are not channeled, turn shoes have no insoles, and the channels in welt outsoles are cut by the rough rounder during this operation. These channels are used in stitching the sole to the upper. This work is moderately light, but the operator stands continuously. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Good eyesight; average intelligence. Schooling: Common school. CHANNEL TURNER-DOWN. (See Layer, channel.) CHECKER, UPPER CASH Description: The packages of vamps, tips, linings, etc., for each case of shoes are cheeked by the checker as they are received from the cutting department. This is done in order to be sure that there is a package of each designated part of the shoe as required by the tag to form a com- pleted case before it is sent to 'tb.e stitching department. Checkers are also used at various other parts of the factory to ascertain if the case is complete before it is sent to the next department. If any parts are missing they are looked up. The work is moderately light, but the oper- ator stands continuously. In some places chairs are provided. Men and women are employed ; also boys and girls. Qualifications: Average ability. Schooling: Common school. 23 CIEANER, IINING CAST Description: The linings which have become soiled during the processes of manufacture are cleaned with naphtha or gasoline. This is rubbed in by hand by the lining cleaner with a rag or brush. The operator uses a chair. Girls are usually employed. Qualifications: Average ability. CIEANEB,, WEIT STITCH CAT Description: The wheeled or separated stitches around the upper edge of welt become soiled by passing through many hands. This part of the shoe being difficult to reach with an ordinary brush, one specially devised for the purpose is used. The welt stitch cleaner holds the edge of the shoe against the brush, which is attached to a rapidly revolving shaft. The stitches are cleaned and given the finishing polish. The work is moderately light but the operator stands continuously. Boys and girls are employed. Qualifications: Average ability. CLOSER, BTTTTON FIY TO TOP CRIB Kindred Occupations : Foxing and vamp seamer ; Top closer. Description: The fly and top which are to be closed are placed together by the button-fly closer with the wrong side but. This is now seamed with a single-needle power machine. The parts are turned and the seams rubbed down before the stay is stitched over this seam. The work is light and the operator uses a chair. Women and girls are employed. Qualifications: Average ability. Schooling: Common school. CIOSER, FOXIWG AND VAMP. (See Closer, heel seam.) CLOSER, HEEL SEAM CATCH Kindred Occupations: Closer, button fly to top; Foxing and vamp seamer; • Closer, top. Description: To close the vamp at the heel It Is folded inside out by the heel seam closer. The two ends are held together and against a guard, which gives a uniform seam when stitched. The closing of the foxing to vamp and of the button fly to top is done In a smillar manner. An- other method of closing Is to use a welt between the ends of the vamp. This gives a dlfCerent finish to the shoe. The same machine is used vsdth a welt attachment. The work is light and the operator uses a chair. Women and girls are employed. Qualifications: Average ability. Schooling: Common school. CLOSER, LINING, WITH HEEL STAY. (See Lining maker.) CLOSER-ON CATJSE Description: This operation consists in stitching together, by the closer-on, the lining and top of the upper on their wrong side. These parts are then turned to their right side and this seam flattened under a vibrating hammer of the machine. This turned edge of the upper serves as a finish to the top of the shoe, Instead of a skived and folded top, where the " closer-on" operation is omitted. The work is light and the operator uses a chair. Women and girls are employed. Qualifications: Average ability. Schooling: Common schooL 24 ClOSER, TOP CAVE Kindred Occupations: Heel seam closer; Foxing and vamp seamer; Closer, button fly to top. Description: The top closer places the two parts of the top together, with the inside surface out. The two backs are stitched together, beginning at the top. This machine can be changed at any time by the pressure of the foot lever, so as to form a zigzag stitch over the parts which will be covered by the outside back stay. This zigzag stitch allows the edges to give slightly, permitting the edges to butt instead of lapping, thus giving a flat, joined seam instead of a ridge in the heel. This is light work and the operator uses a chair. Women and girls are employed. Qualifications: Average ability. Schooling: Common school. CIOTHER-IN, INSOLE CAVY Description: A long strip of gummed canvas about the width of the insole is pulled by hand by the insole clother-in through a tank of warm water or steam box, and pasted to the prepared insole. This canvas is clipped ofE the proper length for each insole, by use of hand shears. The oper- ator stands continuously. Boys and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. COBBLER CEASE Description: When the upper parts of the shoe are cut so small that the pincers of the lasting machines can not readily grasp them these shoes are handed to the cobbler, who lasts them by hand. Those with spoiled insoles are given him to replace the insoles and relast the shoes by hand. He repairs imperfectly sewed welts or broken stitches and makes other minor corrections which do not require a new upper. The work is moderately heavy. The operative uses a chair. Men are always em- ployed. Qualifications : Good judgment ; ordinary ability ; moderate strength. COMPRESSOR, HEEL CEDAR Kindred Occupation: Outsole, and top lift compressors. Description: The heels or top lifts are compressed in order to force the parts closer together, thereby increasing their wearing qualities. The heel compressor places them, one at a time, into the carrier of the machine which conveys them to a mold of their exact size. By means of heavy gearing each part is subjected to great pressure. As the mold returns to Its original position the compressed part is ejected from the opposite side of the machine. This is light work. The operator uses a chair. Men or boys are employed. Women are used on machines with automatic feeds. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. COUP RESSOR, OTTTSOLE CRICK Kindred Occupation: Heel and top lift compressors. Description: Soles are compressed in order to bring the fibers of the leather close together, thereby giving greater wear. The outsole compressor feeds them into the machine one at a time, where they are subjected to great pressure as they pass between the heavy rolls. The work is moderately light. The operator uses a chair. Men or boys are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. 25 COMPRESSOR, TOP IIFT. (See Compressor, heel.) CREASER, VAMP CEDE Description: During the ordinary wear of a shoe creases are formed across the vamp where the foot is bent. Some shoes are creased lu the making. The impressions made by the ^nachine are regular and cause the creases formed in wear to assume much more regular lines, thereby improving the appearance of the shoe and prolonging its wear. The vamp creaser places each shoe under the creaplng device and presses a foot lever, which causes it to make the impression on the vamp. The work is moderately light. The operator stands continuously. Boys and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. CRIMPER, BLUCHER VAMP CUBIC Description: Blucher vamps are cj'eased at the instep in order that they will better fit the shape of the lasts. The vertical blade of the machine by which the work is done Is so shaped as to give the vamps the form of the instep. The blade works up and down between two heated plates, thereby giving them the desired form. This is light work. The crimper stands continuously. Men, women, and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability; good judgment. Schooling: Common school. CRIPPIE BOY CEH Kindred Occupation: Lumper. Description: The cripple boy looks up all missing shoes, such as those which have been repaired by the cobbler. These are placed with their respective cases before they §o to another department. The work is fairly light, but keeps the operative moving around to various parts of the factory. Girls are frequently used for this work. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. CROWNER CENT Kindred Occupation: Inspector, after pulling over. Description: The crowner examines the shoes for flaws of any character which may have occurred in the lasting department. The operative stands continuously. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability; extra good judgment Schooling: Common school. CUTTER, BOX-TOE CRISP Kindred Occupations: Lining cutter; Insole doubler cutter. Description: The material for use as box-toe stiffening is of a canvas tex- ture and is purchased of firms that make a specialty of its manufacture. This material is pulled across the bed of the machine by the box-toe cutter, from four to sixteen pieces at a time being cut, depending on the thickness. The method of operating the machine is similar to that used in cutting linings. This is heavy work. The operator stands continu- ously. Men are always employed. Qualifications : Great strength ; ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. 88049°— 18 i 26 CtrTTER, COUNTER CHAFE Description: The counter cutter feeds the strips of fiber board which have been cut the proper width into his machine, which cuts them into pieces of the correct length for each counter. As each piece is being cut, a knife on the machine also bevels off the upper edge and both ends of the counter. The work is moderately heavy. The operator stands contin- uously. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Good strength; ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. CUTTER, CRIPPLE. (See Cutter, vamp and whole shoe, hand.) CUTTER, HEEL LIFT, HAND CHAFF Description: The drop dies of various sizes are mounted on the heel lift cuttet's bench with the cutting edges up. Each die is open at the bottom and fastened over a hole in the bench. An open bag is attached to the underside of each of these holes. The operator places the pieces of " heeling," one at a time, on whatever die he judges will cut to best advantage. The piece is hit with a wooden maul, which cuts out a heel lift the size of the die. Each lift as it is cut falls through the die into the bag beneath it. Some of the dies cut only quarter and half heel lifts, which later are placed together in the heel to form an entire lift. This is heavy work. The operatives stand continuously in one place. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Good strength; ordinary ability. CUTTER, HEEL LIFT, MACHINE CHAIN Kindred Occupations: Top lift, and shank welt cutters. Description: Pieces of leatherboard to be cut into heel lifts are clamped together before cutting. These pieces are cut in a manner similar to that used in cutting insole doublers from leatherboard. Another method of cutting leatherboard into heel lifts is by the use of the auto- matic "dinker." The pieces of leatherboard, about 40 inches square,' are guided into the machine, one thickness at a time. As the board is guided along by the heel-lift cutter a revolving sheaf trims ofC a strip iust the width of the desired heel lifts. As this strip is being trimmed ofC, fluted rolls carry it under a cutting block. The die attached to the machine comes up and cuts through the material. As each lift is cut the die drops and the strip of leatherboard is moved forward by the fluted rolls just the correct distance for a lift. The die automatically moves up and down when the machine is once started. The operator repeatedly guides the sheet of leatherboard across the machine until the entire board has been cut into lifts. The lifts for building heels are cut also from remnants of the low grades of leather or from strips of composition leatherboard. The operator places these parts on the bed of a machine and holds a die in posi- tion as the machine is operated. The descending head of the ma- chine forces the die through the leather or board. This is moderately heavy work. The operator stands continuously. Men are always em- ployed. Qualifications: Good strength; ordinary ability, 27 CTTTIER, INSOLE AND TAP CBOCE Kindred Occapations: Outsole and top lift cutters. Description: Insoles and taps are cut from the parts left by the outsole cutter, such as shoulders, bellies, shanks, etc., which are defective as to wearing qualities. These parts are sometimes split before cutting. The operation is the same as that of cutting outsoles. The work is heavy. The operator stands continuously. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Good strength; good judgment; ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. CTTTIEB, INSOIE DOUBIEB. {See Cutter, lining.) CUTTER, LINING CHAIE Kindred Occupations: Insole doubler cutter; Box toe cutter. Description: The materials to be cut into lining or insole doublers vary in texture and thickness, and are folded from 18 to 40 thick, depending on thickness of material. The material is put on the machine table, and the cutter places the die so as to cut the maximum number of pieces froni the material. A foot lever is pressed, which releases a clutch, bringing the head of the machine onto the die, pressing it through the material. The head automatically returns to its original position. This is heavy work. The operator stands continuously. Men are always employed. ttualifications: Great strength; ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. CriTER, OUTSOLE CHALK Kindred Occupations: Insole, tap, and top-lift cutter. Description: The outsole cutter cuts the outsole from a side of leather by means of a die and a heavy descending power beam. The leather is laid upon the cutting table, the cutter places the die, and with his foot presses a lever, releasing the beam, which comes down upon the die with sufficient force to press it through the leather, after which it automati- cally returns to its original position. The operator sets the die so as to have as little waste leather as possible, and to have the same quality of leather throughout the sole. This is heavy work. The operator stands continuously. Men are always employed. QuaUfications: Good strength; good judgment; ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. CUTTER, SHANK WELT. (See Cutter, insole.) CUTTER, TOP, HAND. (See Cutter, vamp and whole shoe, hand.) CUTTER, TOP LIFT CROOK Kindred Occupations: Insole, outsole, and tap cutters. Description: A top lift is the outer layer of leather on the heel next to the , ground. It is cut from remnants of the best grades of sole leather. The top lift cutter spreads these remnants out over the bed of a die machine and places the die. The machine is operated by a foot lever, which brings a beam down on the die, driving it through the leather. The beam then returns to its original position. This is moderately heavy work. The operator stands continuously. Men are always employed. aualifications: Good strength; good judgment; ordinary ability. CUTTER, TOP, MACHINE. (See Cutter, vamp and whole shoe, machine.) 28 CUTTER, TRIMMING CHANT Description: The remnants of upper leather from the cutters, vamp and whole shoe, are brought to the trimming cutters, who cut them into backstays, tongues, eyelet facings, etc. These are cut either in whole pieces or else in halves which are later stitched together. The operator spreads the remnants on a cutting block, places the die wherever he can cut a part, and strikes it with a maul. When the die Is full of these cut parts they are removed and placed in boxes. This is moderately heavy work. The operative stands continuously. Men and boys are employed. Qualifications: Good strength; ordinary ability. CUTTER, VAMP AND WHOIE SHOE, HAND , CHAP Kindred Occupations: Top cutter, hand; Throater; Cripple cutter. Description: This occupation includes the men who cut by hand the entire top or upper outside of the shoe, or the men who cut the vamp and also, possibly, some of the other parts of the top. This term" does not, however, include cutters of minor parts only. The vamp is the most Important part of the upper and requires the greatest skill in cutting. The vamp and whole shoe cutter has a bench upon which he spreads the skin ; he lays the pattern in the proper place and draws a knife along Its edge, cutting the part to the desired shape. For each different part of the upper there Is a separate pattern. Incidentally, in the outside cutting car^ must be exercised in selecting like qualities and weights of stock for the same parts In a pair of shoes. The cripple cutter is qualified to cut any part of the upper, but the top cutter cuts only a specified part, where no match- ing is necessary. The method of cutting is the same. This work is moderately .heavy. The operator stands continuously. Men are em- ployed. aualifications : Good eyesight ; moderate strength ; ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. CUTTER, VAMP AND WHOLE SHOE, MACHINE CHAR Kindred Occupation: Top cutter, machine. Description: The parts of the shoe described under Cutters, vamp and whole shoe, hand, are sometimes cut by machine Instead of by patterns and a knife. The operators use dies operated by a power press. Dif- ferent dies are required for each part of each style and size of shoe. The cutting board is similar to that used by the hand worker, but has a beam over It which can be swung either to, the left or right and to any position over the board. The cutter places the die in the desired position on the leather, grasps the handle of the beam of the machine, and swings it over the die with a downward pressure. On the handle of the arm a clutch is placed in operation, which brings the beam downward, pressing the die through the leather. After the cut, the beam automatically re- turns to its full height, swings to the left or right out of the way of placing the next die, and remains there until the handle is pressed again. The top cutter cuts only a specified part, where no matching is necessary. The method of cutting is the same. The operator stands continuously. Stools are sometimes provided for women. Men and women are em- ployed. Qualifications: Good eyesight; ordinary ability. Schooling: Ck)]iunon school. 29 DOTTBIEB, INSOLE DAILY Description: This is usually teamwork. One insole doubler applies the cement to the insole by hand with a brush and passes it to her partner, who sticks it to the doubler. These doubled soles are placed in piles ready for the press. McICay insoles are not channeled and the reinforce- ment is pasted flat to the surface instead of to the sides of an upturned lip as In the welt shoe. This is light work. The operatives use chairs. Women and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. DOUBLER, UPPER DAIRY Description: The thin vamps, tops, etc., are reinforced and made thicker by pasting to each a piece of canvas, known as a doubler, which has already been cut the same size as the piece of leather to which it will be pasted. In order to cover the doubler with cement the operator presses it against a cement-covered roll, which revolves in a tank of this liquid, or spreads cement on with a hand brush, after which it is immediately stuck to the leather. The work is light. The operative uses a chair. Crirls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. DRESSER, SHOE . DALLY Description: Some grades of shoes are given a coat of liquid dressing as a last finish. This liquid is applied with a sponge. The shoes, when dry, show a bright glossy finish. The shoe dresser stands. Chairs are pro- vided in some places. Women and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinairy ability. Schooling: Common school. DUSTER AND GUMMER DAISY Kindred Occupation: Polisher, bottom. Description: The operator uses a machine on which is mounted a revolving shaft which operates various brushes. The designated parts of the sole or heel are held against these brushes to be cleaned and given a polish. After brushing, the surface is sometimes dampened with a gum solution by the aid of a sponge and then held against the revolving brushes to give an added polish. Blowers are used but there is some dust. The operator stands continuously. Men, boys, and women are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. EMBOSSER, TOP FACING EASY Description: The name or trade-mark of the manufacturer or retailer is embossed on the top facing of shoe. The top facing embosser places each lining with the top facing attached under a stamping device which is op- erated by a foot lever. The work is light but care must be exercised. The operator uses a chair. Women and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. EXPEDITER. (See Burnisher, heel.) 30 EYEIETER EAT Kindred Occupation: Hooker. Description: The eyeleter punches holes and sets the eyelets. Both sides of the upper are eyeleted at one time, the eyelets being placed directly opposite each other. This insures that the shoe will lace evenly. After setting the machine for the proper spacing the operator places the shoe in position and starts the machine, which sets and spaces the eyelets automatically. On some men's and boys' shoes hooks instead of eyelets are used in the upper part of the eyelet row. When doing this work exclusively these operators are known as " hookers." The work is light. The operator uses a chair. Women and men are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. FAIR STITCHEE FAGOT Kindred Occupation: Goodyear stitcher. Description: The fair stitcher holds the double soles, or those with the tap and shank pieces attached, into the fair stitching machine and guides them around the entire edge. A device on the machine keeps the seam at the proper distance from the edge. These stitches hold the pieces firmly in place. They show on the upper edge of the sole and give the appearance of the welt-sole-stltching process to the McKay, or nailed shoe. The operator uses a chair. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Mechanical knowledge; ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. 7EATHERER FAIX Description: The outside corner edges of the welt on some styles of. shoes are trimmed or beveled off. This is knovsTi as feathering. The shoe is guided around the trimming knife of the machine, which shaves a nar- row feather edge from the outside corner of the welt, thus producing the desired effect. The featherer stands continuously. Men are always em- ployed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. FILLER, BOTTOM FAINT Description: The depression in the fore part of the shoe, between the welt edges, is filled with a mixture of ground cork and rubber cement. This is placed in by hand with the aid of a wood paddle and then held against a roller. This filling in is done to give an even surface on which to lay the outsole. The work is moderately light. The operative stands con- tinuously. Men, women, and young persons are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. FILLER, HOLE (IN HEEL) FAIR Description: On some grades of shoes the heels are built partly of half -lifts, and holes sometimes appear where the lifts or half-lifts come together. These holes are filled after the heel has been attached to the shoe and its sides trimmed and breasted. The operator fills them with a thick paste which is ap»li«< by hand with a putty knife. The hole filler stands continuously. Boys and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. 21 FINISHER, BTTTTOHHOIE JAIRY Description: The cords used as a filling around each buttonhole (on the underside), as it is worked, are not cut ofE, but are pulled along the edge of the button fly from one hole to the next. These cords are sewed to the under surface of the fly with a zigzag stitching machine using a curved needle, which prevents the stitches from passing through and showing on the outside. The work Is light. The buttonhole finisher uses a chair. Women and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. FITTER, TOP TO LINING FAITH Description: The underside of each lining, at the side and top facings, is coated with cement by means of a hand brush. The linings are then fitted and stuck to the corresponding leather tops to which they are afterwards stitched. Side facings for linings are fitted, pasted, and stitched in the same manner. The fitter uses a chair. Women and girls are employed. ftualifications : Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. EIESHEB, SOLE AT HEEL EAKE Description: The sole is fleshed at the heel In order to remove the rough surface at this point. This smooth surface enables the heel trimmer to give a better finish to his work. The operator places the sole on the bed of his machine. The trimming knife on the machine glides over the heel surface and trims off a thin shaving. The work is light. The flesher stands continuously. Men, girls, and boys are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. FOLDER, HAND FAKER Description : The cemented edges of the upper are folded over by the fingers Of the left hand, which are followed closely by the Read of the hammer controlled by the right hand of the hand folder. Parts that do not stick properly are pounded with the hammer. The work is light. The operative uses a chair. Women and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. FOLDER, MACHINE FALL Description: The machine folder feeds the cemented edge of the vamps, or other parts to be folded, into the machine. A small vibrating foot and hammer folds this edge and pounds it down tightly at the same place. This machine can be used on curves. In another method of folding, the cemented edges of the upper are placed, one at a time, under the blunt edge blade of the machine. Pres- sure on a foot lever causes the blade to drop down and under the edge of the machine, thus folding and sticking each cemented edge. A ham- mer is used to flatten parts that do not stick properly. The work is light. The operator uses a chair. Women and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. GEUMER, INSOLE, MACHINE GLEE Kindred Occupation: Insole reinforcer. Description: Gemming is a method of reinforcing insoles. The strip of gummed canvas is slightly wider than the insole. In this process it covers the entire insole and is pressed down closely to the center of the insole and both sides of the upturned lip. A trimming device cuts ofE the overlapping canvas at the edge of the insole. The work is moderately light. The operator uses a chair. Women and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. 32 GOTTGEK, HEEL LIFT OAKB Description: The forms of all heels where they fit against the shoe have concave surfaces. In order to form this hollow, two lifts for each heel are scooped out in the center. The heel-lift gummer feeds the lifts into the machine which gouges the center as it passes between two rollers and out on the opposite side of the machine. The operator stands con- tinuously. Boys are employed. 60UGEB, TOE OASH Description : When the shoe is lasted a surplus amount of the upper is pulled over at the toe. In order to make room for part of this surplus on the top side of the double sole, the tap is gouged out at this point. The toe gouger holds the tap side against a revolving knife of his machine which trims out a small piece near the toe end of the double sole. The work is fairly light. The operator stands continuously. Men and boys are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. GRADER AKD SKIVER, IITSOLE, MACHINE. (See Grader and skiver, outsole.) GRADER AND SKIVER, OUTSOLE, KACHINE GASP Description: With a grading and skiving machine soles are skived without previous grading by hand. The outsole grader and skiver feeds the soles into the machine, which automatically finds the thinnest part by means of several metal fingers. These fingers set the skiving knife for each sole as it is fed into the machine, and the entire sole is skived uni- formly to the thinnest part. As each sole leaves the machine, the thick- ness in irons (an " iron " being one forty-eighth of an inch) is automati- cally printed on the heel end of the sole with a steel stamp. The outsole grader and skiver feeds the soles into the machine with one hand and with the other arranges them (as they come out) in a near-by rack according to thickness, as indicated by the number of irons printed on the heel. This work is moderately heavy. The operator stands. Men are always em- ployed. Qualifications: Good strength; ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. _ GRADER, "HEELING." (See Grader, top lift.) GRADER, TOP LIFT GATE Description: The top lift graders separate the pieces into groups according to their approximate thickness preparatory to being skived. This is done in order that shoes of the same class will have heels of the same height. The degree of thickness (number of irons) is determined by inserting each piece into the opening of the grading Iron, which Is graduated In width. The number of Irons is indicated along the edge of this opening. Experienced operators become skilled in their judgment, and seldom use the grading iron. The pieces of " heeling " are separated In the same manner. This Is light work. The operative uses a chair. Women and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. ' 33 OKIUDER, HEEL ITAIL GAUDY Seseription: The nails which extend through the top lift on the bottom of the heel are ground off, in order to give a smooth surface. The heel nail grinder holds the heel of each shoe against the revolving emery wheel of his machine, which grinds off these projecting nails. The work is moderately light. The operative stands. Blowers are used, but some dust is present. Men and boys are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. GUUUEB AND POLISHER, OTTTSOLE. (See Buster and gummer.) GTJHKER, HEEL. (See Duster and gummer.) HANDLER, OUTSOLE, FOR ASSEMBLERS HAIL Description: The desired number of outsoles required by each order tag await the arrival of the lasted shoe. These are now arranged in pairs with each size number showing and placed on the lower shelf of the racls which contains the lasted uppers. This is heavy work. The operative stands. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Good strength; ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. HANDLER, SHOE, AT STEAK DRYER HAIR Description: After the shoes have been lasted they are removed from the raclss by hand and placed on drying shelves with the toe of eacli shoe under a steam pipe. This is done in order to dry the box-toe stiffening. The shoes remain in this dryer for about 30 minutes and are then re- turned to the movable racks by the same operators. The physical effort is moderate. The shoe handlers stand. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. HEELER HARE Description: The heel comes to the heeler ready-made, except for the top lift or last layer of leather. The operator places the shoe on a jack (metal last), puts the heel in position, swings the nail plate into place over the heel where the nails are dropped into another plate over the heel. By operating a foot lever another part of the machine drives the nails down through the heel, the outsole, the upper folded between the insole and the outsole, and on through the insole, and clenches the nails back into the leather of the insole. The nails protrude slightly above the un- finished heel. The top lift, coated with cement, is then pressed down by the machine on the protruding nails. Some machines have an automatic nail-feeding device, which guides the nails by wire tubes to the nail sockets on the steel plate. When these machines are used the helper puts the heel and the top lift in place by operating a foot lever, accom- plishing the same results as shown above. This work is heavy. The op- erator stands. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability, good judgment, and strength. Schooling: Common school. HEELER'S HELPER HALE Description: While the heeler is placing the shoe on the jack, operating the machine, etc., a helper sticks the nails into the steel plate of the machine and coats the top lift with cement by the use of a hand brush. Some machines automatically feed the nails to the steel plate and when they are used the helper places the heel in place, coats the top lift with cement 88049°— 18 5 34 by the use of a hand brush, and puts It into the carrier. This worlj iB light. The operator sometimes uses a high stool. Boys and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. HOOKER. (See Eyeleter.) INSPECTOR, AFTER PrilING OVER ICED Kindred Occupation: Crowner. Description: All shoes are examined to see that they are pulled, over evenly,' and that the tips are back the same distance and properly centered on the last. The inspector stands. Men are always employed. aualifications: Ordinary ability; good judgment. Schooling: Common school. INSPECTOR, BEFORE PACKING XCY Kindred Occupation: Orovener. , Description: Before packing, all shoes are examined for defects in construc- tion or finish. Those with flaws are returned to the department in which the defects occurred. The operative stands. Men and women are em- ployed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability and good judgment, Schooling: Common school. INSPECTOR, BOTTOU, APTER FINISHING IDEA Description: The inspector of bottoms examines each sole to ascertiiin if there are any defects in the finished surface. The operative stands. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability; good judgment. Schooling: Common school. INSPECTOR, McKAT IDEAL Description: The soles are inspected for any defects in the operations in this department. Imperfect work is returned for correcting lo the operator responsible for it. , Qualifications: Ordinary ability and good judgment. Schooling: Common school. INSPECTOR, TACK IDES Description : The- nails driven through the insole to hold It to the last are drawn by the tack puller, but in some instances they are overlooked. The ■ tack inspector locates these nails by placing his hand inside each shoe. They are then pulled by the use of hand pincers. The physical effort is light, but the fingers are frequently torn in the search for nails. The operative stands. Boys and girls are iemployed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. INSPECTOR, VAMP IDIOII Description: The completed vamp, or lower part of the shoe. Is examined for imperfect stitches either at the tip or heel searti. The vamp in- spector uses a chair. Men and women are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability ; good judgment. Schooling: Common school. 35 JOINTER JABOT Description: The knife on the edge trimmer does not reach back quite to the heel, and that of the heel shaver also leaves tills section of the sole un- touched. This part is trimmed away evenly by the Jointer, who holds it against the revolving knife of his machine. In some factories these operators use a specially devised knife by hand and are known as " knifers up." The work is light. The operator stands. Men and boys are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. "KNIFEK rP." (See Jointer.) lABEIER, CARTON LAMP Description: The cartons into which the shoes are to be packed are labeled with a card on which is left a space for the size, width, price, etc., of each pair of shoes. These labels are coated with cement and pasted to each carton. The operative uses a chair. Women, and girls are em- ployed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. LABORER lANCE Description: The duties of a laborer are to push the racks filled with shoes to the various parts of the factory where needed, to assemble the wood cases to be packed, and to remove them when full. Trucks are used for this purpose. He may also operate a hand press for insoles. This work is heavy. Men or boys are employed. Qualifications: Good strength. LAGER, HAND LAND Description: Before the shoes are packed the laces for each shoe are run through the lower two holes by hand and tied so as to prevent their falling out. The operator uses a chair. Boys and girls are employed. Qualifications: None, except to attain speed. Schooling: Common school. LACER, MACHINE LANE Description: In order that the upper may be properly pulled over the last, it is- necessary to lace each shoe. The machine lacer places the upper on the machine with the lower five eyelets over a series of hooks, thereby lacing it through the eyelets. A knot is tied, the string cut, and the upper pushed ofC the machine. This is all done automatically, the operator merely placing the upper on the machine. The work is light. The oper- ator uses a chair. Girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. LASTER, FIRST, TURN SHOES ■ LAP Description: The sole for a turn shoe is fitted to the shape of last by placing it over an iron concave mold and pounding it by hand with a specially devised hammer ; another hammer is used to tack It to the last. The op- erator then takes the stitched upper with the lining side out and places the counter at the heel under the lining. The last, with its attached sole, is placed in position inside the upper. A portion of the upper is bent over the heel seat and attached by hand with a hammer ; another tack is driven 36 into the last through the toe lining and upper. The shoe is then placed on the lasting jack (last rack with toe rest), the upper is pulled in place over the last by use of hand pliers, and tacks are driven to hold it in position, beginning at the toe. The lining is not lasted with the upper at the heel, but is cut on each side and turned back so as to avoid wrinkles when the shoe is turned. At this point the shoe is taken to the turn sewer. After being stitched it is returned to the same turn laster, who pulls the sole and lasting tacks with a notched knife and trims with a sharp knife the surplus upper from the sole. The shoe is now passed to the second laster, who turns it to its right side. The physical effort is moderate. The operative stands. Men are always employed, Qualifications: Good strength; ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. lASTER, SECOND, TURN SHOES, HAND lAPEl Description: In order to turn the shoe the operator pulls the last, then places it over the turning iron which is attached to his bench. He pulls first the heel and then the toe against the end of this iron, turning the shoe i"ight side out, straightens out the upper and lining, and inserts a filler for the fore part and the shank piece, each of which has been coated with cement, thus filling the space on the inside surface of the sole be- tween the lapping edges of the upper. Two nails are driven into the shank to give added stiffness. The lasts are now returned by means of a shoe horn, each to the opposite shoe from which it was taken, on account of the shoes haying been turned. He now uses a leveling iron on the sole and toe, and also pounds them with a hammer to adjust all parts to the shape' of tbe last. The work is heavy. The operative stands. Men are always employed, ftualifioations; Great strength; ordinary ability. LASTER, SIDE, HAND lEST Kindred Occupation: Puller-over, hand. Description: Side lasters use hand pincers to pull the upper into place at the side or instep, drawing it tightly over the last and insole so that there are no wrinkles, and driving tacks with the back of the pincers to hold It in place. In some factories assembling and side lasting are done by the same operator. The work is moderately heavy.' The operator stands. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Good strength; ordinary ability. LASTER, SIDE, MACHINE. {See Lasting-machine operator, consolidated hand method.) LASTER, "TURN," MACHINE LAPSE Description: To turn a shoe by machine the "turn" laster, machine, places It over the heel form and presses a foot lever. The arm of the machine forces the heel seat down Inside of the form thereby turning the heel. The shoe Is then transferred to an arm of the forepart turner with the sole down. The foot lever of this machine causes pressure on the sole, which assists the operator in turning the sole. The shoe is now pulled by hand to the opposite arm of the machine thus turning the fore part. The work Is heavy. The operative stands. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Great strength; ordinary ability. 37 XASTINO-KACHINE OPEBATOK, CONSOLIDATES HANS UETHOS LABCH Kindred Oc6upatiou: Side laster, machine. Sescription: In this method of lasting, which is done on a machine known either as " consolidated " or " niggerhead," the operator holds the edge of the shoe so that the pincers of the machine grasp the upper and draw it evenly and closely about the last. Immediately following the pincers as fast as the upper is drawn into position, there is a device on the ma- chine that drives tacks automatically into the last to hold the upper in its proper place. In case any part of the shoe has not been properly lasted, the operator pulls the tacks and does the work over. The entire shoe is lasted with this machine. Under the welt system this machine is often used to last only the side or instep, after which the bed machine lasts the toe and heel, thus eliminating the operation of hand lasting the side or instep, which is necessary in plants using only the bed machine. The work is moderately heavy. The operator stands. Men are always employed. Qualifications : Good strength ; good judgment ; ordinary ability. lATER, CHANNEI lARS Kindred- Occupation: Channel cementer. Sescription: The lip of the channel is turned down over the stiches to protect them from wear and to permit of a smooth finish to the surface of the sole. The bottom of the shoe with the upturned lip is held by the channel layer against the outer rough edge of the revolving wheel of the machine, which forces the lip smoothly back into place. The physical efEort is moderate. The operator stands. Boys are employed. ftualifications: Ordinary ability. lAYER, SOLE LARGE Description: The cement-covered outsole is placed on the shoe, and the shoe put on the spindle of the sole-laying machine. The rubber pad or mold of this machine presses the sole firmly against all parts of the shoe bottom and welt. While one shoe is under pressure the operator is preparing the other. The work is light. The sole layer stands. Men and women are employed, aualifications: Ordinary ability; good judgment. Schooling: Common school. LEVELER LARK Description: The operation of leveling, to correct any unevenness in the bottom of the shoe, is done with an automatic sole-leveling machine. The leveler places the shoe on a jack or metal last, which he attaches to the machine where it is securely held by a spindle and a toe rest. He presses a foot lever and the shoe passes automatically beneath a roll during heavy pressure. This roll moves with a vibrating motion over the middle of the sole of the shoe from the toe down to and into the shank and passes back again to the toe. The roll then cants to the right and repeats the operation on that side of tfie sole, returning to the toe as before. It then cants to the left, repeating the operation on that side, after which the shoe atitomatically drops forward and is relieved from the pressure. While one shoe is under pressure the operator is preparing another shoe. The work is light. The operator stands. Men and women are em- ployed, ftualifications: Ordinary intelligence. 38 inriNG MAKER XARRY Description: The duties of a lining maker are to stitcli together the various parts which form the lining of the shoe. The two side pieces are first stitched together at the heel seam with a stay. A top facing of leather is then stitched along the top edge of this lining ; it is fed automatically from a roll attached to the machine. The leather facings for the sides are pasted, or held in place while being stitched. This work is usually divided among several operators, each doing a specified part. The work is light. The operator uses a chair. Women and girls are employed. Qualifications: Average ability. Schooling: Common school. XrMPER. (See Cripple boy.) MARKER, BrTTON-ROW MAIZE Description: The button fly of each shoe is pulled in position over the oppo- site part of the upper, to which the buttons will be fastened. A steel punch is pushed through the buttonholes, thus marking the location for each button. The buttonholes are used for locating the position of each button, because if the buttonholes are spaced irregularly, the buttons should be spaced in the same way. The operator uses a chair. Girls arc employed, ftnallfications: Ordinary ability. MARKER, EYEIET-ROW MAJOR Description : The eyelet row is a line of stitches up the front of each eyelet flap just inside the line where the eyelets will be inserted. The pattern is placed along the edge of the upper, covering the location of the eyelets. The marker draws a pencil along the inside edge of this pattern, thus making a line for the stitches, The operator uses a chair. Girls are employed. Qnalifioations: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. MARKER, LINING MAKE Kindred Occupation: Upper size marker. Description: All linings and uppers are stamped with the case number, size, and width. This marking not only serves to identify the shoe dur- ing the process of manufacture, but duplicates can be made at any time by reference to this number. The marker sets the stamp or changes the punching device of the machine, indicating the size, width, etc., or loca- tion on vamp for tip. A foot pedal operates the stamping arm. The parts are held (a small quantity at a time) slightly folded in front of the machine; one piece at a time is allowed to fall under the stamping arm, each on top of the preceding. They are removed when the accumu- lation interferes with the stamping arm. The work is Ught. The oper- ator uses a chair. Women and girls are employed. Qualifications: Good eyesight; ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. MARKER, SHANK MAKER Description: When the shank or forepart of the sole Is to be blacked, a mark across the shank indicates where this painted section shall end. The employee generally uses a knife to draw this line across the sole. The shank marker stands continuously. Men and women are employed, aualifications : Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. 39 MARKER, UPPER SIZE. (See Marker, lining.) MARKER, VAMP, EOR TIP. (See Marker, lining.) MATCHER, UPPERS, INSOIES, AND COUNTERS MALE Description: The uppers from the stitching room and the counters and insoles from the sole-leather department are matched by the tag on each package. These are placed on a rack ready for the last pickers. This is moderately heavy work. The operator stands. Men, boys, and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary strength and ability. Schooling: Common school. MATER OUT, FOR INSPECTOR. (See Mater out, for treer.) MATER OUT, FOR TREER MAIL Description: The shoe forms on a treeing machine are made In whole sizes only. Therefore, for the convenience of the operator the shoes are sepa- rated into groups. All of each size and its corresponding half-size are placed together. Before final inspection, these shoes are again mated for appearance as to location of tip, color, texture of upper, etc. This work requires much care. The operator stands. Boys and girls are em- ployed. Uualifications : Good eyesight; ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. MOIDER, COUNTER MAIT Description: The counter molder places the curved counter in the mold of his machine. A small part of the entire bottom edge of the counter projects outside of tJie mold. By pressure on a foot pedal a device on the machine bends in, at right angle, first the sides and then the back of this projecting edge, thus molding It into the shape of the heel. This work is heavy. The operator stands. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Good strength; ordinary ability. MOLDER, OUTSIDE (TURN SHOES) MIX Description: Soles for turn shoes are molded by hand. The outsole molder places each sole over an iron concave mold and pounds it with a round- headed hammer in order to make it fit the shape of the last. The physical effort is moderate. The operator stands. Men or boys are employed, aualifieatlons : Good strength; ordinary ability. MOLDER, OUTSIDE EDGE (TURN SHOES) MANGE Description: The edge of the sole from which the lip portion has been trim- med is bent down in order to avoid the needle when the upper is sewed to the shoulder. The oUtsole edge molder guides the entire edge of the sole around his machine, which bends it down to an angle of about 45 degrees. The work is light. The operator stands. Men or boys are em- ployed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. MOLDER, OUTSOLE AND INSOLE MAN Description: Soles are molded in order that they will better fit the shape of the last. The operator places them in the mold of the machine one 40 at a time. While one sole is being held under pressure the molder Is placing the other. The soles are dampened with water before placing thera into the mold so as better to attain and hold the new shape. The work is light. The operator stands. Men and boys are employed. ftTialifications: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. NAILEB, CASE NEST Description: The wood shipping cases which have been filled with the packed cartons are nailed by hand with a hammer. The box is now ready to be marked for shipment. The physical effort is moderate. The case nailer stands. Men and boys are employed. dualifications: Grood strength; ordinary ability. NAILEE, HEEL SEAT NAG Description: The heel seat is the heel end of the shoe. The insole, the outsole, and the part of the upper between them are nailed together by machine. Small nails are driven automatically through the parts and clinched on the inside of the shoe. The shoe is placed on a jack and the work for the heel-seat nailer is to guide it during the nailing. The work is light. The operator stands. Men or boys are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. NAUUKEAG OPERATOR NAIL Kindred Occupation: Shank scourer. Description: After shank scouring, the Naumkeag machine is used on high- grade shoes to give an added finish to these parts. A circular-shaped rub- ber pad on this machine, covered with fine emery paper, revolving at the rate of 7,000 times per minute, is kept Inflated with fresh air by a pump on the machine. The operator holds the shank part of the shoe against this inflated rubber pad which gives a velvety finish to the part. Qualifications: Average ability. PACKER PARCH Description: Each paid of shoes is wrapped in thin paper and placed in the carton which has already been stenciled for it. As these cartons are filled they are placed in the wood shipping case, made to hold a specified number of cartons. The work is light. The packer stands. Women and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. PAINTER, SIZE, TIPPER POST Description: On the outside piece of each bundle of upper parts is marked the size. The size painter paints across the edge of each bundle (thereby staining the edge of each piece) using a hand brush with various colors, each color denoting a size, according to the code existing in the factory. Example : One red stripe indicates size 7 ; two red stripes, 7i ; one green stripe, 8; two green stripes, 8i, etc. This occupation corresponds to the markers. The work is light. The operator uses a chair. Boys and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. ' PARATEINER, orTSOlE OR TAP. (See Blacker or stalner, sole.) 41 PASTER, BrTTON-FIY STAY PAEE Kindred Occupation: Side-facing paster. Description: A narrow strip of cotton tape is coated with cement witli a brusli by the button-fly stay paster. This stay is pasted near the outer edge of the fly where the buttonholes are to be cut, and prevents the buttons from tearing the holes. Girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. PASTER, HEEL LIimTQ PICOT Kindred Occupation: Sock-lining paster. Description: The only nails which have been driven through the insole to remain in the finished shoe are at the heel. These are hidden from view by a canvas or leather pad. This lining is coated with cement by the use of a brush and pasted over the nails. In the McKay or nailed method, where the stitches or nails appear along the entire insole, a piece of canvas (sock lining) the size of the insole is pasted over these parts. This work is light. The paster uses a chair. Girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. PASTER, HEEL PAD. (See Paster, heel lining.) PASTER, HEEL PIN. (See Paster, heel lining.) PASTER, SIDE FACING. (See Fitter, top to lining.) PASTER, SOCK LINING. (See Paster, heel lining.) PATTERN BOY PARK Description: For each vamp, top, foxing, etc., there must be a pattern, or die, and for each of these a different size, width, and style, and a right and a left. Pattern boys get out the patterns for each job of work, as shown by the order tag, and place them with the stock for each case to be cut. Dies for machine cutters are usually gotten out a few at a time and delivered to the cutters as wanted, and those with which the cutters have finished are returned to the racks. The physical effort is light, but the operator is kept moving around to the various bins, etc. Boys and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. PERFORATOR PARRY Description : The perforating machine is operated much like an ordinary sew- ing machine. The vertical moving die punches holes through the material as it passes along. The presser foot of the machine automatically moves it the correct distance for the spacing of each hole. At the curves this spacing is controlled by a lever. The operator guides each piece into the machine on top of a moving band of paper which aids in making a clftan perforation. The holes- may all be of the same size or a combinatfon of sizes and may be made around the edge of any shaped material. In some instances these holes are made by means of dies fastened to a moving arm of the machine and controlled by a foot iever. The work is light. The operator uses a chair. Girls and boys are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. 42 PICKER, lAST JARSE Kindred Occupation: Last sorter. Description: The tag for each case of shoes is received by the last picker, who selects from storage bins right and left lasts for each size required by the tag. These are placed in the rack, beginning with the largest sizes at the top of the rack. The picker walks around to the various bins. The work is light. Boys and girls are employed. ftuaUfications: Good eyesight; ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. POLISHER, BOTTOM PART Kindred Occupation: Duster and gummer, bottoms. Description: The shoe bottoms are polished by holding them against the various revolving pads, rolls, and brushes of the finishing shaft. Wax is used on the sole, between some of the rubbing processes. The work is light. The bottom polisher stands. Men are always employed. ftualifications: Ordinary ability. POTTNDER, AFTER LASTING PARTY Description: When the shoe is lasted a surplus amount of leather is gathered on the sole around the toe. In order to trim off this surplus the pounder, after lasting, holds the shoe against a revolving grater (a sheet- iron band full of punctures) and then against pounding rolls, which smooth out the. parts and tend to draw the upper more tightly over the toe. This is heavy work. The operator stands. Men are always em- ployed. Qualifications: Good strength; good judgment; ordinary ability. POTTNDER, BUTTON TOP PASHA Description: In order to make the tops of button shoes stand up straight when exhibited, the button top pounder holds the folded edge of the button fly and heel seam under a pounding device of his machine, which flattens out these edges. The work is light. The operator uses a chair. Boys and girls are employed. ftuaUfications: Ordinary ability. PRESSER, INSOLE. (See Laborer.) PULLER, INSOLE TACKS PASS Kindred Occupation: Lasting tack jpuller. Description: The insole tacks are pulled by holding the sole against the tack-pulling device of his machine. The lasting tacks are pulled in about the same manner. The work is light The insole tack puller stands. Men, women, and boys are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. ' PULLER, LAST PAST Description: To remove the last, the lace strings are cut or the shoe unbut- toned. The lasts are pulled by placing the shoe on the last stand or jack with the bottom up. The last puller raises the heel part of the shoe off the last, using care not to break or crack the shank. The shoe is then gripped by the forepart and pulled, leaving the last on the jack. The shoe is now placed back on the shoe rack. The lasts are put into boxes and later tlirown into their respective bins, according to size and -width. In the welt method the last remains in the shoe during all the processes of manufacture from the time it is placed there by the assembler in the last- 43 Ing department until It Is ready for the finishing processes In the treeing department. In the McKay method the last is pulled for the purpose of stitching on the outsole and In the " turn " process just after the stitching on of the outsole in order to turn the shoe to its right side. In both methods the lasts are returned to the shoe so that it will retain its shape during the remaining processes of manufacture. This is heavy work. The operator stands. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Great strength; good judgment; ordinary ability. PULLER, LASTING TACKS. (See Puller, insole tacks.) PTTLLER-OVER, HAND PASTE Kindred Occupation: Side laster, hand. Description: The hand puller-over does his own assembling. With the parts assembled he takes hand pincers and draws the upper over the last and insole, taking care that the upper keeps its proper position, and drives a tack at the toe and two on either side to hold the upper In position for the laster. In some factories this work done is di- vided Into two or more separate operations. Side lasting is done in the same manner. The operative* uses pincers to pull the upper in place at the side or instep, drawing it tight so that there are no wrinkles, and driving tacks to hold it in place. This is moderately heavy work. The operator stands. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Good strength; good judgment; ordinary ability. PULLER-OVER, MACHINE PAT Description: When shoes are pulled over by machine they are first assembled and put over the last by the assembler. The machine puller- over places the shoe in the machine, the pincers of which grasp the leather at different "points on each side of the shoe. The operator stands so that he can see when the upper is properly centered. He presses a foot lever closing the pincers, which draw the leather securely against the last. The machine stops at this point aftd the operator can start or stop at will. The operator now examines the shoe to see whether all the parts have been evenly pulled over the last. Where a part has not been properly pulled over it can be adjusted to the desired point by levers. When satisfied that the shoe is properly adjusted the operator presses a foot lever, the pincers move toward each other, drawing the leather around the last, and at the same time the machine automatically drives two tacks on each side and one at the toe through the upper and insole into the last to hold the upper in position. This is heavy work. The operator stands. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Good strength; good Judgment; ordinary ability. PUNCHER, TIP. (See Perforator.) PUSHER, RACK. (See Laborer.) RANKER, SHANK RADIO Kindred Occupation: Shanker out, turn shoes. Description: In order to give a smooth appearance to the upper edge of the sole at the shank, the shank rander bevels this corner of the edge by hand with a knife devised for this purpose. The work is light. The operator stands. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. 44 BAHDER, WEIT. (^ee Featherer.) REIKFORCER, INSOIE, WEIT HAFT Kindred Occupation: Gemmer, insole. Description: The insole reinforcer places the canvas-covered insole in a machine and guides it around the entire surface of the upturned lip. The machine presses the canvas securely to the insole and against the inner side only of the upturned lip. A trimming device cuts the canvas off even with the top of the lip. Gemming is another method of rein- forcing insoles, in which the canvas is slightly wider than the insole, and is pressed to both sides of the upturned lip. The work is light. The operator stands. Boys and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. REPAIRER, CRACKED-CHANNEL RAO Description: When the lip of a channel has been broken or chipped off it is repaired by filling in the broken space with a thick paste. This is applied by means of a putty knife. The work is light. The operator stands. Men are always employed. Qnalifications: Ordinary ability; good judgment REPAIRER, DTJIL SHOE. (See Repairer, russet.) REPAIRER, PATENT-LEATHER TIP RAOE Kindred Occupation: Dull-shoe and russet repairer. Description: The patent-leather tips which have been cracked or damaged during the processes of manufacture, after being scoured, are repaired by applying a specially prepared patent-leather liquid. This is applied with a rag or brush. The use of a rag is known as the finger method. The work is light. The patent-leather tip repairer uses a chair. Men, women, and young persons are employed. Qualifications: Good eyesight; good judgment; ordinary ability. REPAIRER, RTTSSET RAIL Kindred Occupation: Dull shoe and patent-leather tip repairer. Description: Any stains of grease or oil which have gathered during the processes of manufacture are removed by gasoline or other cleaning fluid. The original finish is given by applying " repairing " fluid. Various colors are used, depending on the finish of the shoe. Colored crayons are also used. Black shoes are repaired in somewhat the same manner, but not so much care is necessary. The work is light. The repairer uses a chair. Men, women, and young persons are employed. Qualifications : Good eyesight ; good judgment ; ordinary ability. ROLLER, COUNTER RAIN Description: The counter roller feeds the counters into his machine, end first. They pass between rolls which bend them into a curved shape. This enables the molder to place them into the mold easily. The rolls of the machine are kept waxed, so that the counters are also given a waxed finish during the rolling process. The work la light. The operator stands. Boys and girls are employed. 45 ROIIER, "OFFAL" HAINT Description: " Offal " is the term used for the parts of the hide left oy the outsole cutter, such as shoulders, shanks, and bellies. These pieces are rolled to make the leather firm and to flatten the wrinkles so that it can more easily be cut. The roller of the machine is attached to the end of an arm, which moves back and forth over the bed of the machine without touching it. The " offal " roller places the pieces of " offal " one at a time under the moving arm; foot pressure on a pedal raises the bed of the machine against the moving roller with the piece of "offal" between. The amount of pressure is regulated by the energy of the operator placed on the foot pedal. Sometimes a machine is used into which the operator feeds the " offal," one piece at a time. The pieces pass between heavy rolls, where they are subjected to great pressure. This is heavy work. The operator stands. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Great strength; good judgment; ordinary ability. ROUNDER, ODTSOIE AND INSOLE RAISE Description: The outsole and insole rounder places a pattern of the desired size and shape into the machine. A sole is placed on this and clamped by means of the foot lever. A hand lever starts a little knife, which travels around the edge of the pattern, trimming. the sole to conform with it. The work is light. The operator stands. Men are always employed, ftualiflcations : Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. ROUNDER, ROUGH RAJAH Description: This operation consists of trimming by machine the edge of the outsole and welt so that they will extend a uniform distance from the upper. It is the first operation on the edge of the sole in the Goodyear bottoming process. The machine also cuts an oblique channel in the outsole near the edge, in which the thread is embedded, when the Goodyear sole stitching is done later. This is heavy work. The rough rounder stands. Men are always employed, aualifications : Good strength; ordinary ability; good judgment. Schooling: Common school. RUBBER-DOWN, SEAM RAKE Description: The heel seam of vamp, or other part of the upper, is placed over the arm of the rubbing device. The hand rubbing iron (one end of which is attached to this device) is rubbed back and forth over the seam to flatten it before it is stayed. This is moderately heavy work. The seam rubber-down uses a chair. Boys and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. RUBBER, OUTSOLE CHANNEL STITCH - RALLY Description: The row of stitches in the channel of the outsole is flattened before the lip Is cemented down. This is accomplished by holding the stitches against a small revolving wheel which fits into the channel. This is light work. The outsole channel stitch rubber stands. Boys are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. , SCOURER, BOTTOM. (See Buffer.) 46 SCOTTRER, 9EEL SAUCY Description: The heel scourer holds the shoe by hand so that the heel, which has been trimmed, but Is not yet smooth, comes in contact with rolls covered with sandpaper, which smooth the heel. The physical effort is moderate. Blowers are used, but there is some dust. The operator stands. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. SCOURER, HEEL BREAST SOLID Description: The heel breast has a concave surface as well as being curved over the sole. The heel breast scourer holds this part of the heel against a revolving cone-shaped disk of sandpaper, which enables him to smooth all parts of this surface. The work is light. Blowers are used, but there is some dust. The operator stands. Boys are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. SCOURER, PATENT-IEATHER TIP SAVE Description: The tips of patent-leather shoes, which have been cracked or damaged during the processes of manufacture (usually during the last- ing of the toe) are scoured before being repaired. This is accomplished by holding the damaged parts against a revolving canvas-covered wheel, which cleans off the enamel and gives a smooth surface. This is light work. The patent-leather tip scourer uses a chair. Men and women are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability; good judgment. SCOURER, SHANK. (See Buffer.) SCOURER, TOP LIFT SqIjq Kindred Occupations : Shank scourer ; Buffer. Desoriptio-n: The top-lift scourer holds the bottom of the heel against the revolving sandpaper covered rolls of the machine. This removes all stains and gives it a finished appearance. (This part is later either stained or blacked, depending on the finish desired.) This work is mod- erately heavy. Blowers are used, but generally there is some dust. The operator stands continuously in one place. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Good strength; ordinary ability. SEAMER, EOXIWG AND VAMP. (See Closer, heel s6am.) SEAMER, VAUJP EXTENSION SAVER Description: A vamp extension is a toe piece of felt or stiff leather which is stitched to the end of a cut-off vamp under where the tip will be placed. To obviate the necessity of skiving and lapping, the operator butts the two edges together and holds them in place on the machine while they are united with zigzag stitches across the open seam. The work is light. The vamp-extension seamer uses a chair. Women and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. 47 SEPARATOR, STITCH SOOTH Kindred Occupations: Stitch burnisher; stitch wheeler. Description: To improve the appearance of the stitches around the edge »t the shoe on top of the welt they are separated by indentations between them. The edge of the shoe is placed under a small notched wheel of the machine which makes the indentations as the shoe is guided by the stitch separator. Stitch wheeling is done in the same manner. A smaller wheel is used. Stitch burnishing is also the same except that a hot wheel is used to trace either of the above named operations. The work is light. The operator stands. Boys are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. \ SETtER, EDGE SAW Description: The edge setter holds the edge of the sole against a machine having hot irons, shaped to fit the edge of the sole, which vibrate rapidly and give a lasting polish to the edge. The work is moderately heavy. The operator stands. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Good strength; good judgment; ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. SEWER, McKAT ' SAT Kindred Occupation: McKay welter. Description: The McKay sewer uses a McKay sewing machine to sew together the outsole, the upper, and the insole, the thr«e parts being sewed together in one operation, except at the heel seat, which is nailed. The seam is embedded in the channel on the outside ; the opposifse side of the seam is on the inside of the shoe instead of on the top of the welt outside the shoe, as in the welt process of manufacture. The work is moderately heavy. The operator stands. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Good strength; ordinary ability. SEWER, TURN SCAB kindred Occupation: Goodyear welter. Description: The turn sewer places the edge of the shoe in his machine and guides it along the entire length of the channel, beginning aild ending at the heel. The threads pass from the channel, through the shoulder of the sole, and through the upper (which is lasted to it), uniting these • parts. The machine used here is similar to that used by the Goodyear welter In that process, but without the welt attachment. The work is modera-tely heavy. The operator stands. Qualifications: Good strength; ordinary ability. SHANKER OUT, TURN SHOES \ SCAID Kindred Occupation: Shank rander. Description: Shanking out is the beveling, or trimming away, of the edge of the sole at the shank. Theshanker out feeds the shank edge of the sole, one side at a time, to his machine which skives, off this part, thus giving a thin appearance to the sole at this point. The work is light. The operator stands. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. SHAVER, HEEI. (See Trimmer, heel.) SHEXIACKER, BOX TOE. (Bee Assembler, for pulling-over machine,)' 48 SHIPPER SCAIE Description: The shipping clerk compares the contents of each case of shoes, as shown by the order tag (which hai followed them through the factory), with the original order, in regard to sizes, width, etc., before the shoes are shipped. The work requires great care and accuracy. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability; good judgment. Schooling: High school. SIZEE, rPPER AND COUNTER SCAIP Description: Each upper is placed with the corresponding last by size, and right and left. Each counter is placed in the compartment opposite the corresponding size last. The work is light. The uppjr and counter sizer stands. Men, women, and young persons are employed. Qnalifications: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. SKIVER, COUNTER EDGE. (See Skiver, insole.) SKIVER, COUNTER END. (See Skiver, insole.) SKIVER, "HEELING." (See Skiver, "offal.") SKIVER, INSOLE SCALY Kindred Occupation: Skiver, outsoles. Description: Skiving of taps, top lifts, and insoles is similar to the skiving of outsoles, except that not so many separations are made nor so much care is needed. The counter edge skiver and counter end skiver are slightly different in that only a certain part of the counter is skived. The work is light. The skiver stands. Women, boys, and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. SKIVER, " OFFAL " SCAUP Kindred Occupations: Skivers of outsoles, insoles, taps, top lifts, and heeling. Description: The blade of the machine is set so as to skive the entire piece of leather to a uniform thickness. The " ofCal " skiver places one piece at a time in the machine. The fluted rolls carry the leather under a long knife which is set to skive at the desired thickness. The physical effort is moderate. The skiver stands. Men are always em- ployed. " Heeling " is skived in the same manner, but the work is lighter; women and boys are employed. Qualifications: Good strength; ordinary ability- SKIVER, OUTSOLE- SCAN Kindred Occupations: Skivers of insoles, taps, top lifts, offal, and heeling. Description: The outsole skiver sets the machine to skive soles to any desired thickness, or "iron," an iron being one forty-eighth of an inch. The soles are fed into the machine, where rolls carry them under a fixed knife, which shaves off the surplus leather from the flesh side, reducing them to an even thickness. The work is light. The skiver stands. Men are always employed.- Qualifications: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. 49 SKIVER, TAP. (See Skiver, insole.) SKIVER, TOP LIFT. (See Skiver, insole.) SKIVER, trPPER SCANT Description: Skiving consists of cutting away, on the flesh side, the edge of each tip, vamp, facing, top, etc., which shows in the completed shoe, so that the edge may be turned and pasted back, thus giving a finished rather than a raw edge, of the same thickness as the other parts of the leather. The machine used has a, sharp-edged revolving disk so shaped as to cut the desired bevel or shoulder on the leather fed to it. Men, women, and girls are employed in this operation. The work is light. The skiver uses a chair, dualifications : Ordinary ability. SKTVER, WELT END. (See Skiver, insole.) SLUGGER SCAR Description: The slugger operates a machine which drives small pegs of wood or metal called "slugs" into the top lift of the heel to protect it from wear. The operator adjusts the plate so as to place accurately the desired number of slugs, and the machine automatically cuts and drives the slugs as they are drawn from a coil of wire. The work is light. The operator stands. Men and boys are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. SORTER AND GRADER, INSOLE. (See Sorter and grader, outsole.) SORTER AND GRADER, OUTSOLE SCARP Kindred Occupation: Insole sorter and grader. Description: Outsole sorters examine the grain side of all soles and separate them according to quality with regard to durability, which depends on the texture and firmness of the leather. Grading is the separation made with regard to the thickness of the sole. This is done in order that shoes of the same class may all have soles of the same thickness. The soles are now placed in cases according to the above separations. The work is light. The operator uses a chair. Men are always employed. The work on insoles and top lifts is of a lighter character, and women are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability; good judgment. Schooling: Common school. SORTER AND GRADER, TOP LIFT. (See Sorter and grader, outsole.) SORTER AND PACKER, COUNTER SCATH Description: The counters which have been molded are sorted for Imperfect ones and parked into boxes according to style, grade, and size. These boxes are then placed in storage racks. This is light work. The counter sorter and packer uses a chair. Women are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. 50 SORTER, "HEELING" SCENE Kindred Occupation: Skiving sorter. Description: The " heeling " which has been trimmed is passed to the sorter, who arranges It into grades depending on the size and the quality of the pieces. The best quality Is used for the top lifts; the other is used for shank welts, shank pieces, and heel lifts. The work of the skiving sorter is of a similar character. The work is light. The sorter uses a chair. Women are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability; good judgment. SORTER, LAST SCENT Kindred Occupation: Last picker. Description: The last sorter takes the lasts from the movable racks where they have been placed by the puller and throws them into the proper bin, in accordance with the size printed on each last. This work is sometimes done by the last pullers. The work is light. The operator stands. Boys and girls are employed. Qualifications: Good eyesight; ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. SORTER, SKIVING. (See Sorter, " heeling.") SORTER, UPPER SCION Description: The upper sorters examine the vamps, uppers, tips, etc., to see that there are no spots, holes, or defects of any character that would spoil the finished shoe. Pieces of the same quality and color are matched so as to enter the same shoes, and thin or flabby pieces are marked to be doubled. This work is light, but requires great care in examining these parts. The operator uses a chair. Men, women, and girls are employed. Qualifications: Good eyesight; ordinary ability; good judgment Schooling: Common school. SPLICER, OrTSOLE AND TAP. (See Cementer, outsole.) STACKER, COTINTER SCOFF Description: As the counters are cut they drop into a box near the machine. The counter stacker then arranges them into piles with all of the beveled edges in one direction. They are now ready to be placed into the edge- skiving niachlne. The work is light and the stacker uses a chair. Boys and girls are employed. Qualifications: Average ability. STAINER, EDGE. ^See Blacker, raw edges of uppers, hand.) STAINER, HEEL. (See Blacker, heel.) STAMPER AND SLASHER, INSOLE SCOLD Description: The insole stamper and slasher places the Insoles In this ma- chine one at a time. A slashing device makes two straight cuts on the flesh side of the insole, extending from each edge about one-third of the distance across the insole. This slash indicates the location for the heel and serves the channeler and welter as a guide for starting and ending these subsequent operations. The end of the welt is also trimmed to this line in the butting operation. During the slashing operation this machine also Imprints the size number on the upper side of the insole, and if the union trade-mark of the workers is used it Is stamped on dur- 51 Ing the same operation. The work is light and the operator stan4s. Boys are employed. Qualifications: Average ability. ' Schooling: Common school. STAHPER, TRASE-KABK SCOOP Description: The name or trade-mark of the manufacturer or retailer is sometimes stamped on the shank or fore part of the shoe. The impression Is made by a gas-heated steel die, held by the trade-mark stamper. The shoe is placed bottom up on the jack of the machine; a foot lever then starts the machine, which comes down with pressure, making an imprint on the shoe. The work is light, but the operator stands continuously. Men and women are employed. Qualifications: Average ability. Schooling: Common school. STAPLER, BOX TOE SCOOT Description: In some styles of shoe the stiffening for the toe is held in place by staples instead of stitches. These staples are formed automatically as they are driven from a coil of wire on the machine. The box-toe stapler holds the piece of stiffening to the end of the vamp under the tip, and pressure on a foot lever forms and drives each staple. The work is light and the operator uses a chair. Boys and girls are employed. Qualifications: Average ability. Schooling: Common school. STAPLER, SHANK SCOPE Description: During the wear of a shoe there is an unusual strain at the end of the shank near the ball of the foot. To give additional strength at this point one or two tacks are driven through the outer edge of the sole and welt, thus preventing them from pulling ..part. The shank stapler places this part of the shoe under the driving device of the machine and by pressure on a foot lever the tack is driven and clinched with one operation. The work is light and the operator stands. Boys are employed. Qualifications: Average ability. STAYER, BTTTTON-FLY SEAM. (See Stayer, heel seam.) STATER, HEEL SEAM SCORE Description: A canvas tape is stitched over the heel seam on the inside to give added strength. The heel seam stayer uses a double-needle ma- chine, which stitches both sides of this seam with one operation. The tape is fed automatically from a spool on the machine. The operation is continuous, the different pieces being held together by the tape and afterwards cut apart. The button-fly seam and other parts are fre- quently reinforced in a similar manner. The work is light and the operator uses a chair. Women and girls are employed. Qualifications: Average ability. STENCILER, CARTONS SCORN Description: The cartons which have been labeled are now stenciled with the style number, size, and width on each by the carton stenciler. They 52 aie marked with mbber stamps and an ink pad. Tlte size, width, etc., are obtained from the tag^ which follows each case, or lot of shoes, through the factory. The work is light and the operator stands. Women and girls are employed. Qualifications: Average ability. Schooling: Common school. STENCILER, CASE SCOT Description: When the shoes have been packed into cases and the cases nailed, they are ready for shipment. The case stenciler prints the ad- dress of the purchaser on the lid of the case by means of a brush and paint cup or by use of a stencil. The work is light and the operator stands. Qualifications: Average ability. Schooling: Common school. STITCHER, BACKSTAY SCOTJB, Description: The back of the shoe is usually strengthened by an additional strip or stay of leather running all or part of the way between the top and the sole of the shoe. The backstay stitcher sews the stay on over the back seam. The work is light and the operator uses a chair. Women and girls are employed. Qualifications: Average ability; good judgment. Schooling: Common schooL STITCHER, BOX TOE SCOUT Description: The box-toe stitcher places the stifCening for the toe under the tip lining and it is stitched to the vamp. The material for this StifCening becomes quite hard after being dampened by the assembler. The work is light and the operator uses a chair. Women and gii-ls are employed. Qualifications: Average ability. Schooling: Common school. STITCHER, BUTTON-EIY EACIKG SCOW Description: The leather button-fly facing, which has been pasted to the liniog, is now stitched along the inside edge by the fly-facing stitcher. In some factaries these parts are held in place while being stitched witht)ut previous pasting. The work is light and the operator uses a chair'. Women and girls are employed. Qualifications: Average ability. Schooling: Common school. STITCHER, BTJTTON-FLT TAPE SCOWL Description: To prevent the tearing out of the buttonholes a stay is stitched by machine along the edge of the fly where the buttonholes will be cut. On some shoes this stay is pasted in by hand. The work is light and the operator uses a chair. Girls are employed. Qualifications: Average ability. STITCHER, EYELET ROW SCRAP Description: The eyelet row stitcher uses a single-needle machine in fol- lowing the line already drawn near the edge of each eyelet flap, extending from the top of the upper to the vamp, often ending with a curve at the lower end. This row of stitches is for ornamentaj purposes only. The operator uses a chair. Women and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. 53 STITCHER, GOODYEAR SCREW Kindred Occupation: Fair stitcher. Description: Tlie Goodyear stitclier uses a Goodyear outsole lock-stitch machine to stitch the outsole to the welt. The seam is run in the channel of the outsole through both outsole and welt on the outside of the shoe. The stitches show on the upper surface of the welt and are covered later on the under surface of the sole by cementing down the lip of the channel. The physical effort is moderate. The operator stands. Men are always employed. ftualifications : A machinist ; good strength ; ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. STITCHER, INSOLE LIP SCRIP Description: The lips of low-grade insoles are usually reinforced with canvas to give them strength. The insole-lip stitcher, starting at the heel, turns up both of the lips, made by the insole channeler, at right angles from the insole, and stitches them together around the sole back to the heel. This double lip is now ready for the canvas reinforcement. The- work is light. The operator uses a chair. Men, women, and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. STITCHER, McKAY. (See Sewer, McKay.) STITCHER, SIDE FACING. (See Lining maker.) STITCHER, TIP SCRUB Description: The tip is placed across the front end of the vamp at the points already marked on each side of the vamp. These parts are united with either a single 'or double needle machine. The tip lining is also held under and stitched with these parts. The work is li^t. The tip stitcher uses a chair. Women and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability; good judgment. Schooling: Common school. STITCHER, TOE LINING SCTTLL Description: The two ends of the lining at the toe are placed one edge over the other, and stitched together, beginning at the top. The toe lining stitcher, when working on a lace shoe, also stitches the tongue to the vamp. The work is light. The operator uses a chair. Girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. STITCHER, TONGUE SEA Description: The blucher vamp differs from the others by extending up over the instep ; the tongue is attached to it. The quarters are extended forward and are laced across this extended vamp or tongue. To stitch the tongue of this vamp the tongue stitcher places the tongue under the instep end of the vamp and holds the pieces together while they are being stitched. The work is light and the operator uses a chair. Women and girls are employed. Qualifications: Average ability. Schooling: Common school. 54 STITCHER, TOP SEAI Description: When the lining has been closed on to the top of the upper, it is folded inside of the upper, covering the closing-on seam, and passed to the top stltpher who stitches, by machine, the edge of the folded-ln seam. In some shops the top stitching is done without a previous closing-on, the lining being held In position or having been previously pasted to the upper, which has already been skived and folded to give a finish to the top edge of the shoe. This latter method is also known as undertrimming. The work is light. The top stitcher uses a chair. Women are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability; good judgment. Schooling: Common school. STITCHEB, TOP PAGING. (See Lining maker.) STONEK. (See Burnisher, heel.) STKIPEB, BOTTOM EDGE SEAU Kindred Occupation: Bottom wheeler. Description: The bottoms of some shoes which are finished in the natural- leather color are decorated around the edge of the bottom with a stripe of some desired color. The striping device is filled with color and guided around the edge of the sole by hand. A guard near the end of the striper keeps the point of the striper a constant distance from the edge. An electrically heated tracing wheel Is sometimes used to burn a simi- lar decoration around the edge of the sole. The work is light. The bottom-edge striper uses a chair. Men and women are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. STRIPPEB, BACK. (.See Stitcher, backstay.) STRIPPER, FIBER BOARD. (See Trimmer, fiber-board edge.) STRIPPER, HEEI-STRAP COVER SEAMY Description: The loops which are stitched to the tops of men's shoes at the back, to assist the wearer in pulling them on, are covered with paper to prevent them from being soiled during the processes of shoe making. These loops, are purchased with their paper covers already on. They are inserted between the lining and upper, and fastened in place by the seam of the top stitcher. The paper coverings of these loops are now pulled ofC by hand, shortly .before the final inspection of the shoe. This work Is light. The heel-strap-cover stripper stands. Girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. TACKER, INSOLE-TO-IAST, HAND TALE Description: The insole-to-last tacker holds the proper insole to each last, and fastens it by driving two tacks through it into the last. These tacks are driven by hand with the hammer. The work is light. The tack^ stands. Boys are employed. Qualifications^ Ordinary abUity. Schooling: Common schooL 55 TACKER, OUTSIDE, MACHINE TAIK Description: The outside tacker puts the sole in place on the shoe and holds it against the tacking device of his machine, which drives a few nails through it into the insole to hold it in place until it is permanently fas- tened. The machine automatically cuts the nails as they are driven from the end of a narrow band of flat steel coiled on the machine. The width of this band determines the length of the nail. The work is light. The operator stands. Men are always employed, ttualifieations : Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. I TACKER, OTJTSOIE AND TAP. (See Tacker, rand.) TACKER, RAND TALL Description: A rand is a narrow strip of leather made thin on one edge. It is used to tack around the edge of the heel (except at the breast) to give it a concave form where it joins the shoe. The rand tacker holds the rand in place on the heel and guides it around under the nailing device of the machine. A similar machine is used to fasten the outsole and tap together and to tack the shank pieces and shank welts in place. The work is light. The operator stands. Men, women, and boys are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. TACKER, SHANK PIECE. (See Tacker, rand.) TACKER, SHANK WELT. (See Tacker, rand.) TEUPERER, OTTTSOLE AND COUNTER, TURN SHOES TALLT Description: In order to, get the outsoles and counters for turn shoes in condition so that they will bend readily, and without cracking, the various packages of each are placed in a tank of water for a short while and then set aside to drain in an air-tight closet or are covered with burlap. They remain in this condition about 12 hours. The phys- ical effort is heavy. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Good strength; ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. THROATER, VAMP TALON Kindred Occupations: Vamp and whole shoe cutter, hand; Cripple cutter; Top cutter, hand. Description: The throat of the vamp is the inside curved part. Vamps are sometimes cut and this part left to be trimmed out later. The cutting out of this part when done separately is known as throating. The vamp throater uses a pattern and knife in a similar manner to that em- ployed by cutters, vamp and whole shoes, hand. He stands continuously. The work is moderate. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. \ TIER, UPPER TANK Description: When the uppers for a ease of shoes are completed they are tied in a bundle, to be sent to the lasting department. The upper tier folds each upper flat and piles them with the creases alternately back and front, one on top of the other, in the r^ck of an upper press. When all for a case are in, he presses a foot lever which forces them down tightly 56 together. A strap Is then put around the bundle, to hold them in place until they reach the lasting department. The work is moderately heavy. The operator stands. Men and boys are employed. Qualifications: Good strength; ordinary ability. TREER, HAND TAP Description: The treer places the shoe on a form, the shape of a last, sup- ported on a frame. By pressing a foot lever the form is expanded so that the shoe fits tight over it. The tools of the treer are a hot iron, brush, cloth, etc. The treer brushes the shoe, cleans spots and discolorations, remedies any slight cut or blemish, and rubs the upper with a hot iron to take out wrinkles and produce a smooth surface. Females are en- gaged in this occupation to a considerable extent. The physical effort is moderate. The treer stands while working. Qualifications: Good strength; good judgment; ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. TREER, MACHINE TAPE Description: Treeing is sometimes done on a machine. A treeing machine has two arms which cross each other at right angles, and revolve hori- zontally at the point where these arms intersect. There are four shoe forms, one on the end of each cross arm. The rubbing device of this machine is stationed at an exact distance from the revolving center, so that a shoe placed on any one of these arms can be swung to this point to be rubbed. There are two operators to each machine. One machine treer places the shoe on the form, cleans it off with a dry brush, rubs in a filler, and swings it into the rubbing device, which consists of two heated rolls, one for each side of the shoe. This device operates up and down the lower half of the shoe from toe to heel, ironing the creases from these parts. When started it operates a set number of times and automatically stops. This shoe is then swung around to the other oper- ator, who uses a treeing iron by hand on the top, in the shank, and over the vamp and tip, where the machine does not touch. The shoe is then swung to the first operator, who applies a coat of dressing, removes the shoe from the form, and places on another shoe. The operators and the machine are all working on -different shoes at the same time. The physical effort is moderate. The operators stand. Men are usually employed. Qualifications : Good strength ; good judgment ; ordinary ability. Schooling: Common school. TEIMMER, EDGE TAPER Description: The edge trimmer holds the edges of the sole against a machine having a series of revolving knives that trim the edge smooth and to the desired shape. The work is light, but requires extreme care. The oper- ator stands. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Average ability; good judgment; good eyesight. Schooling: Common school. TRIUMER, FIBER-BOARD EDGE TRACK Kindred Occupation: Fiber-board stripper. Description: Fiber board, which is to be made into counters to stiffen the shoe at the heel, comes from the manufacturer in pieces about one yard square. The edges of these pieces are uneven. In order to get a straight edge before they are cut into strips the fiber-board edge trimKiey {^ecja 57 them into his machine between fluted rolls, which draw them under a revolving knife at one end of the rolls. The strips for counters are then cut in the same manner, the exact width for the desired counter. The trimmed pieces drop to a truck on the opposite side of the machine. The physical efEort is moderate. The operator stands. Men are always em- ployed. Qualifications: Good strength; good judgment; ordinary ability. TRIHUER, HEEL TAB Description: The heel, when the shoe is received from the heeler, is rough and larger than the required size. The trimmer, or shaver, holds the shoe by hand in such a position that the heel comes in contact with a series of revolving knives on his machine, which cut away the heel to conform to the desired contour, as indicated by the top lift, which is of proper size when put on by the heeler. The machine has two sets of knives. With the. first set the trimmer shaves that part of the heel from the top lift to the sole, then with the other set he trims the edge of the sole (" heel seat"), taking care not to cut the upper. This Is heavy work. The operator stands. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Good strength; ordinary ability. TRIMMEB, "HEEIING" TARRY Description: By the term "heeling" Is meant the small pieces of sole leather which remain after the soles and taps have been cut. Some of these pieces have narrow or irregular ends, too small for use. These ends are trimmed off with a hatchet by hand and go into the waste, which is ground into pulp and manufactured into leatherboard. The usable parts are thrown to the sorters. The physical efEort is moderate. Men and women are employed, ttualifioations: Ordinary ability. TRIMMER, HEEI SEAT TART Description: The rough rounder trims only the part of the sole to which the welt Is attached. The remaining part around the heel is cut away by the heel-seat trimmer by holding this part against the revolving knives of his machine, trimming it as indicated by a set guide on the machine. This work is sometimes done by the heel trimmer. The physical effort is slight. The operator stands. Women and boys are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. TRIMMER, INSEAM, AND lASTING-TACK PUILER, HAND TASK Kindred Occupations: Inseam trimmer and lasting-tack puller, machine. Description: After the welt has been stitched to the upper and the insole, the remaining lasting tacks are pulled by means of hand pliers, and the surplus upper and lining trimmed from around the entire bottom with a knife, by hand. The work is moderately heavy. The operator stands. Men and boys are employed. Qualifications: Good strength; ordinary ability; good judgment. TRIMMER, INSEAM, AND lASTING-TACK PULLER, MACHINE TASTE Kindred Occupations: Inseam trimmer and lasting-tack puller, hand. Description: In order to remove the lasting tacks, the inseam and lasting-- tack puller and trimmer, machine, guides the lasted edge of the shoe, with its projecting tacks, against a pulling device on his machine. 58 which consists of a rotary -moving claw which extracts the tacks very rapidly. The surplus upper on the bottom at the toe and sides is then cut away by holding it to the trimming knife of the same machine. The work is liglit. The operator stands. Men and boys are employed, ttualifieations: Ordinary ability; good judgment. TRIMMER, LASTED UPPER TOE TAUNT Description: The lasting of a shoe at the toe causes an accumulation of upper and lining at this point. This surplus is cut away with a knife, to permit of a better fitting of the welt. The work is light. The trim-, mer stands. Boys and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability. TURNER, CHANNEL TAUT Kindred Occupation: Insole lip turner. Description: The channel in the outsole is held against a small, bevel- shaped revolving wheel of a machine which turns the lip of the channel back toward the middle of the sole to permit the stitching of the sole to the welt, through the channel. The work is light. The channel turner stands. Men and boys are employed. The lip on insoles is turned up in the same manner ; girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability; speed. TURNER, INSOLE LIP. {See Turner, channel.) UNDER TRIMMER. (See Stitcher, top.) VAMPER VAGUE Description: The vamp is the top of the upper to which the sole Is attached. " Vamping " is the process of sewing together the vamp or lower part , of the shoe upper and the top part, known as the top quarter. Pumps or slippers having no tops or quarters do not require vamping. Vamping is the most important and best-paid operation in the fitting room. The vamper uses either a single or double needle power vamp-sewing machine. Either men or women can do this work. Women's shoes, being light, can be vamped by women, but men's shoes, being heavier, are usually vamped by men. However, in many plants making men's shoes there are female workers. The duties are light, but great care must be exercised. The operator uses a chair. Qualifications: Should have average ability; good judgment. Schooling: Common school. WELTER, GOODYEAR WAG Kindred Occupation: Turn sewer. Description: The welt is a narrow strip of leather to which the outsole is to be stitched. It extends around the edge of the sole as far back as the breast of the heel. By one operation of the machine both the welt and the upper are sewed to the insole through the Up of the insole. This method leaves the inside surface of the shoe perfectly smooth. The out- sole is stitched to the welt in a later operation. The work is moderately heavy and the operator stands. Men are always employed. Qualifications: Average strength and ability; good judgment. 59 WELTER, UoKAT WAGER Kindred Occupation: McKay stitcher. Description: A "McKay welt" is a combination of the McKay and welt types of shoes in which a welt is attached to the insole in the same way that the outsole is sewed to the insole in a regular McKay shoe; that is, the stitches pass directly through the welt, upper, and insole, making a seam on the inside of the shoe. This is accomplished by the use of a McKay machine with a welt attachment which guides the welt into position as it is stitched around the bottom edge of the lasted shoe as far back as the breast of the heel. The outsole is afterwards sewed to this welt by the Goodyear stitcher. With the exception of the method of attaching the welt, the operations on this style of shoe are the same as on other styles of welt shoes. The work is moderately heavy. The McKay welter stands. Men are always employed. dualifications: Good strength; good judgment: ordinary ability. WETTER, BOX TOE WAOON Kindred Occnpation: Wetter, channel lip. Xfescription : When a certain kind of stiffening is used in a box toe, the toe of the shoe is dipped into water in order to soften this stiffening material, thus preventing it from being cracked or broken when the shoe is pulled over. The operator stands. Boys and girls are employed. Qualifications: Ordinary ability, WETTER, CHANNEL LIP WAIF Kindred Occupation: Wetter, box toe. Description: In order to prevent the lip of the channel from cracking when it is cemented down, it is dampened slightly. The channel lip wetter has a pail of water into which he dips each sole. The operator stands. Boys and girls are employed. dnalifications : Ordinary ability. WETTER, TAP AND SOLE WAIL Description: In order to get the soles antl taps Into condition, so that they will work easily and not crack when sewed or nailed, these parts are dipped into a tank of water. This is heavy work. Men are always em- ployed. Qualifications: Good strength; average ability. Schooling: Common school. WHEELER, BOTTOU. (See Striper, bottom edge.) WHEELER, STITCH. (See Separator, stitch.) HARNESS AND SADDLERY. BTTFFEB.. (See Plnisher.) COLLAR UAEEB COCOA Description: The collar piaker turns out a complete horse collar. Qualifications: He must be able to fit and stitch the parts of the collar together, stuff it with hair, wool, and straw, shape, and finish It. It Is desirable that he be able to cut the stock for the collar. He should be able to take a horse's measure for a collar. Schooling: Common school. COLLAR STTTFPEB COIN Description: The stuffer feeds thtf collar to a machine which stuffs the body and rim of the collar, ftnalificatious: Rapidity and dexterity. He should be able to operate a blocking and shaping machine. Schooling: Common school. CUTTER COD Description: The cutter, by the use of hand tools, may cut the stock either for the harness, collar, or riding saddle. Qualifications: He must so figure his cutting as to secure the maximum of parts with a minimum of waste. A steady hand and skill in the use of cutting tools is required. He must be a good judge of leather and be able to select what is best adapted to the part he is cutting. Schooling: Common school. Note. — Although a skilled cutter can usually, cut or readily learn to cut in any branch of the industry, cutters generally specialize as collar, harness, or riding saddle cutters. In specifying a cutter the work he is expected to do should be indicated under one of the following heads: CUTTER, COLLAR COMB CUTTER, HARNESS COG CUTTER, RIDINQ SADDLE COIL FINISHER FIFE Kindred Occupation: Helper. Description: The finisher cuts off threads, blocks up loops, trims loops, smoothes edges, cleans, blackens, and rubs up the finished product. The work is light, and unskilled boys, girls, and women are employed. Qualifications: Sense of neatness. Schooling: Common schooL (60) 61 FITTER, HARNESS TIGHT Description: The harness fitter matches the stock together and prepares it for the stitchers and finishers, ftualifications: He must be able to fit and tack together various parts of the harness preparatory to stitching. The work calls for good judgment and accuracy. Schooling: Common school. rOREMAN nOCK Description: The foreman must be a skillful worker In the various lines of work carried on in the department over which he has supervision. Qualifications: He should thoroughly understand all materials used, know how to place stock orders, distribute the stock among workmen, and as- sign the work. He should have executive ability sufficient to organize the department. Schooling: Common school. Note. — If a general foreman Is desired use the code word for foreman. If a foreman for any particular department is desired the name of the de- partment must be given with the code word for foreman. HAND STITCHER HARE Description: The hand stitcher does such sewing as can not be done on the stitching machine. Qualifications: He must be able to stick in and sew down loops and laps, and be able to sew on any work in the harness Industry. He should have patience and dexterity, and be familiar with the different kinds of stitches. Women are sometimes employed. Schooling: Common school. HARNESS MAKER HART Description: The harness maker turns out a set of harness complete except for the collar. Qualifications: He must be able to shape, fit, and stitch the various parts of the harness together. He must be able to use all the hand tools re- quired in the making of harness. It is desirable that he be able to cut the stock for the harness. The position calls for an accurate and careful worker. Schooling: Common school. HELPER HAS Description: The helper does unskilled general work. He does such work as marking off lengths, carrying stock, feeding creasing machines, oper- ating simple machines, blackening, polishing, and rubbing up of stock. The work Is light Boys, girls, and women are employed. Schooling: Common school. MACHINE HAND METER Kindred Occupation: Machine operator. Description: The machine hand runs a stitching machine on which he stitches the stock as marked. Qualifications: For the purpose of this classification the machine hand is defined as one who can set up, operate, and adjust a stitching machine. Schooling: Common school. 62 KACHINE OPERATOB HEW Description: The machine operator runs a stitching machine on which he stitches the stock as marljed. Qualifications: For the purpose of this classification the machine operator is defined as one who can operate a stitching machine but can not set up, adjust, or repair his machine. Schooling: Common school. PAD HAND PITY Description: The pad hand makes the pad and fits it into the riding saddle. Qualifications: He must be able to cut, fit, stuff, and stitch the cJoth or leather to the inside of the riding saddle. Women are sometimes em- ployed. Schooling: Common school. SADDLE HAND SIGHT Description: The saddle hand matches and fits together the various parts of the saddle after it has been cut, covers the saddle tree, and completes the saddle or prepares it for the stitchers and finishers. Qualifications: He must know the different styles of saddles so as to be able to fit them properly. Schooling: Common school. SADDLE UAKEK SIGMA Description: The saddle ©aker cuts his stock and does all the work neces- sary to complete the saddle. Qualifications: He must be able to cover the saddle tree, fit and stitch the various parts together, and do any other operations necessary to finish the saddle. He must be able to cut the stock for the saddle. The posi- tion calls for an accurate and careful worker, -chooling: Common school. SADDLER. (Sec Saddle maker./) TANNING BARK GRINBER BTTRK Description: The bark grinder prepares the bark by grinding it in a ma- chine. He must see that the bark is ground into small pieces so that the tannin can be leached out. Qualifications: He must know how to grind the bark properly. Average strength and ability are required. Schooling: Common school. BATER. (See Drencher.) BEAMSTER BrRN Description: The beamster spreads the hide over a semicylindrical beam and, pressing his body .against it to hold it in place, scrapes off the flesn and trims the edges and shanks with a two-handled knife. Qualifications: A workei with the manual skill necessary to avoid cutting the hide is required. He must be able to endure wet and heavy work. BIACKEB. (See Tannery worker.) BLEACHER BTTRST Kindred Occupation: Scourer. Description: The bleacher operates a machine which immerses the leather in a series of alkali and acid baths for the purpose of removing excess tannin and other material from the grain of the leather. Qualifications: He must know how to operate the machine and must be able to endure wet work. BREAKER BUSH Description: The breaker runs the hide through a machine in which the adhering flesh is removed from the hide. Qualifications: He must know how to operate the machine and be able to endure wet work. / BVEFER BUZZ Kindred Occupation: Shaving machine operator. Description: The buffer skives down or shaves the skin to get an even weight and a smooth surface.. Qualifications: This work requires care and judgment in the use of the machine. BUNDIER. (See Tannery worker.) CHORE UAN. (See Tannery worker.) COLORIHO-WHEEIi MAN. (See Tannery worker.) COUNTER. (See Tannery worker.) (63) 64 CROPPER CREEP Description: The cropper trims oflE bellies, heads, and shoulders from sides. Qualifications : He must know how to make the proper divisions and know how to operate the cutting machine. Schooling: Common school. CRUST SORTER CREST Kindred Occupation: Pickle sorter. Description: The crust sorter arranges the tanned skins according to weight and quality. Qualifications: He must have a thorough knowledge of skins and the pur- poses for which they are used. He must be able to determine the differ- ent grades of skins quickly and rapidly, Schooling : Common school ; preferably high schooL CURRIER. (See Stuffer.) DAMPER. (See Tannery worker.) DIPPER. (See Tannery worker.) DRENCHER DIAL Description: The drencher soaks the hides, from which the hair or wool has been removed, In a solution for the purpose of removing all traces of lime. Qualifications: He must know how to make the solution and know the exact length of time required to remove the lime from various kinds of skins. He must be able to endure wet work. DRY DIP HAN. (See Tannery worker.) EMBOSSER EVEN Description: The embosser prints different figures on the grain side of the leather by using a special machine. Qualifications : He must understand the use of the machine and be able to work carefully. FINISHER. (See Tannery worker.) PLESHER. (See Breaker; also Shaving-machine operator.) 7LESHING-MACHINE OPERATOR. (See Breaker; also ShaTlng-machine opera- tor.) GLAZER GLIDE Description: The glazer operates a machine which produces a bright gloss on the leather. Qualifications: He must be able to operate the machine properly. S&IR BALER. (See Tannery worker.) HAIR DRIER. (See Tannery worker.) HAIR WASHER. (See Tannery worker.) HAND BTTPPER. (See SUcker buffer.) HANDLER. (See Tannery worker.) 65 HOOKER. (See Tannery worker.) JACK-MACHINE OPERATOR. (iSee Stacker.) lEACH MAN lEE Description: The leach man prepares the tanning liquor by leaching the tan bark in water. Qualifications: This work requires a worker with considerable trade knowl- edge and special knowledge of bark leaching. Schooling: Common school. LEACH RUNNER. (See leach man.) LIME PUXLER. (See Limer.) LIMER lEFT Kindred Occupation: Painter. Description: The limer treats the hides with a solution of lime to soften the hair sheathes so that the hair can easily be removed. Qualifications: He must know how to mix the solution and know the length of time required to soak the hides. He must be able to endure wet work. Schooling: Common school. LIQTTOR MAN XEO Description: The liquor man runs the tanning liquors into the vats and keeps them up to their proper strength. Qualifications: He must have had sufficient leach house experience to be able to keep the liquors at the proper strength. Schooling: Common school. LIQUOR RUNNER. (See Liquor man.) L07T MAN. (See Tannery worker.) LUMPER. (See Tannery worker,) MACHINE WHITENER. (See Whitening-machine operator.) MARKER. (See Tannery worker.) MEASURER MIST Description: The measurer determines the area of the tanned skin on an electrical measuring machine. Qualifications: He must know how to operate the -machine and be able to read the dial correctly. Schooling: Common school. MILL MAN • MITE Description: The mill man operates the drum wheels for softening the dry hides. Qualifications: This operation can be readily learned, but requires a strong, husky man. PACK CHANGER. (See Pack hoister.) PACKER. (See Tannery worker.) 66 PACK HOISTER POHT Description: The pack bolster takes stock out of vats by means of a hook, and piles the stock for "laying away." Qualifications: This work requires a man of great physical strength. PACE PULLER. (See Pack hoister.) PAINTER POKT Kindred Occupation: Limer. Description: The painter applies a chemical solution to the hide in order to loosen the hair or wool. Qualifications: This work requires a careful worker who knows how to apply the solution properly. PICKLER POOL Description: The plckler soaks the hides in a chemical solution to preserve them. Qualifications: He must understand the making of the solution and know how long the hides must remain in the solution. He must be able to en- dure wet work. Schooling: Common school. PICKLE SORTER POP Description: The pickle sorter grades the pickled skins according to their size and their adaptability for different purposes. Qualifications: He must be thoroughly acquainted with skins and the processes through which they go for the various finishes. He must be able to handle heavy skins. Schooling: Common school. , PRESSMAN ' POPPY Description: The pressman folds the skins and places them in a hydraulic press to squeeze out the grease. Qualifications: He must know how to fold the skins and how long to keep them in the press. The work is greasy and heavy and requires a man of more than average strength. Schooling: Common school. PTTRER. (See Drencher.) PUTTER OUT PORCH Description: The putter out runs the skins which have been tanned and col- ored through a machine which presses out superfluous grease and stretches them out somewhat. Qualifications: He must understand the use of the machine; must have aver- age strength and ability. RAWHIDE TRIKUER. (See Tannery worker.) REELER. (See Tannery worker.) REEL HAN. (iSee Tannery worker.) 67 KIPPER B.EAL Description : The ripper cuts the hide down the back with a knife to divide it into two sides. Qualifications: He must be able to keep his knives sharp and be able to divide the skin accurately. Schooling: Coinmon school, ROLLEK REAIU Description: The roller operates a roller which smoothes out all wrinkles, compresses the fabric, and gives a smooth finish to the grain side. This is a sole leather operation. Qualifications: He must have had previous experience, must have good physical strength, and be an intelligent worker. Schooling: Common school. SCOURER SOKE Description: The scourer runs water over the leather and uses stones and brushes to clean the surface of the leather and to remove dirt, bloom, and other material from the grain side of the leather. Qualifications: Average strength and ability; must be able to endure wet work. SCRTTB-WHEEL VLAU. (See Tannery worker.) SEASONER. {See Stuffer.) SHAVING-MACHINE OPERATOR SOUND Kindred Occupation: Buffer. Description: After the skins have been tanned the shaving-machine operator runs them through a machine which removes any of the remaining flesh. Qualifications: He must be able to feed the machine so that the skins will not be damaged. Average strength and ability are required. SUCKER BUPEER SOUTH Kindred Occupation: Buffer. Description: The slicker buffer takes off a light cut on the flesh side of the skin by the use of hand tools. Qualifications: He must be skillful in the use of tools. SOAKER. (See Tannery worker.) SOFTENER. (See Staker.) SORTER. (See Crust sorter.) SPLITTER ' SPAN Description: The splitter divides the hide into the required thickness. Qualifications: He must be able to keep his knives sharp and be able to work accurately. Schooling: Common school. SPONGER. (See Tannery worker.) SPREADER SOWN Description: The spreader opens out the hides and ties them head to tail in such number that they will fill the vats into which they are to be placed. QuaUfications: He must know how to do the work without cutting too large holes in the hides or in wrong places on the hide. Average strength and ability are required. 68 STAKEE SOWER Description: The staker passes every part of the hide under the arm of a staking machine or jack, which draws a rounded piece of steel over the surface with a firm pressure to smooth out all wrinkles, to stretch and soften the skin, and to give it a finish, ftualifications : He must know how much to stretch the various pieces of hide. Average strength and ability are required. STAMPER. (See Tannery worker,) STONER OITT. (See Staker.) STRIKER OUT. (See Staker.) STRINGER. (See Tannery worker.) STRIPPER. (See Tannery worker.) STTJFFER SPACE Description : The stuffer places the hides, after they have been tanned, in a revolving drum, where they are treated with melted tallow and other ingredients to improve the stock. Qualifications: This is an important process and requires a man who has considerable knowledge of the processes involved in the stuffing of leather. Schooling: Common school. SWEATER SPAKE Description: The sweater loosens the wool or hair for pulling by steaming the hides in vats. Qualifications : He must know how long to steam the bides ; must be able to stand wet work. TACKER TOTAL Description: The tacker places the wet skin upon a board and tacks it, stretching it slightly. Qualifications: He must be a careful worker and know how to smooth the skin without stretching it out of shape. TANNER, BARK TOTEM Description: The bark tanner supervises and performs the various opera- tions in connection with bark tanning. Qualifications: He should ^now all the steps in the process of bark tanning, but should be particularly familiar with the leaching of the bark to secure the tanning liquor and the soaking of the hides in the tanning vats. Schooling: Common school. TANNER, CHROME TOUCH Description : The chrome tanner supervises and performs the various opera- tions lu connection with chrome tanning. Qualifications: He should know all the steps in chrome tanning, but should be particularly familiar with the making of chromfe tannin and the soak- ing of hides in the tanning va|ts. Schooling: Common school. G9 TANNER, aUEBRACHO TOUGH Description: The quebracho tanner supervises and performs the various operations in connection with quebracho tanning. Qualifications: He should know all the steps In quebracho tanning, but should be particularly familiar with the malnng of quebracho tannin and the soal^ing of hides in the tanning vats. Schooling: Common school. TANNER, SUMAC ' TOUR Description : The sumac tanner supervises and performs the various opera- tions in connection with sumac tanning. Qualifications: He should know all the steps In sumac tanning, but should be particularly familiar with the making of sumac tannin and the soaking of hides in the tanning vats. Schoo)iing: Common school. TANNERY WORKER TOWER As follows : Blacker ; Bundler ; Chore man ; Coloring-wheel man ; Counter ; Damper ; Dipper ; Dry-dip man ; Finisher ; Hair baler ; Hair drier ; Hair washer ; Handler ; Hooker ; Loft man ; Lumper ; Marker ; Packer ; Raw- hide trimmer; Keeler; Reel man; Scrub-wheel man; Soaker; Sponger; Stamper ; Stringer ; Stripper ; Toggler ; Trucker ; Untoggler ; Wheel man. Note. — In specifjring any man from the above group use the code word for Tannery worker. Description: The tannery worker does such work as hanging up, taking down, trucking, and such work as is indicated by the occupational name or such other work as does not require a long period of training. Qualifications : This work requires strength rather than skill or experience. TOGGLER. (See Tannery worker,) TRIMMER. (iS'ee Cropper.) TRUCKER. (See Tannery worker.) UNHAIRING-MACHINE OPERATOR UNIT Description : The unhairing machine operator runs the hides through a ma- chine which takes off the hair. Qualifications : He must undetstand the setting of the machine, have a gen- eral knowledge of hides, and exercise care so that the hide Is not dam- aged. He must be able to endure wet work. UNTOGGLER. (See Tannery worker.) WASHER WEDGE Description: The washer throws the hides Into a large revolving drum or vat, where water is run over them to wash ofE impurities. Qualifications : He must be able to teU how long the hides should remain in the water. The work Is wet and heavy and requires a strong man who is able to endure wet work. WEIGHER WEEK Description; The weigher Deceives the hides, checks them against the in- voice, and weighs them. Qualifications: He must know the various kinds of hides by sight. He must be able to endure the odor of hides. Schooling: Common school. 70 WET WHEEIER. (See Wheel buffer.) WHEEL BUFFER WEIGH Description: The wheel buffer smooths out the leather and finishes the flesh side on an emery wheel. Qualifications: He should know how to use the emery wheel for this work. WHEEL MAN. (iSee Tannery worker.) WHITENIN6-UACHIHE OFEKATOR WELD Description: The whitening-machine operator takes a light cut off the flesh side of the skin and smooths out the hide. Qualifications: This work requires an experienced man with more than average ability. Schooling: Common school. WOOL PULLER WELL Description: The wool puller takes the skin which has been painted or sweated to loosen the wool, pulls it over a semlcylindrical beam and, with his hands, scrapes off the wool. Qualifications: He must know the various grades of wool so as to be able to separate the wool as he pulls the various grades. YAKDUAN. (See Pack hoister.) Cornell University Library HF 53S2.5.U5A35 Descriptions of occupations / "''"""'"S" 000 451 264