Wason 
 
 DS793 
 
 S6G78 
 
 ASIA 
 
CORNELL 
 
 UNIVERSITY 
 
 LIBRARY 
 
 THE 
 
 CHARLES WILLIAM WASON 
 
 COLLECTION ON CHINA 
 
 AND THE CHINESE 
 
Cornell University Library 
 DS 793.S6G78 
 
 Yarkand (Forsyth's mission 
 
 3 1924 023 438 868 
 
 OLIN i-IBR|^^^|j'| 4TIOW- 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 HAN; 
 
 jJJMi* 
 
 
 
 "^^ 
 
 
 
 
 ^^^^ 
 
 m^^ 
 
 Wk 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 DEMCO 38-297 
 
^^ 
 
 Cornell University 
 Library 
 
 The original of this book is in 
 the Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924023438868 
 
MSff-H^ YARKAND (FORSYTH'S MISSION). 
 
 2?5 7^5 " ^ 
 
 ce 
 
 RETURN to an Address of the Honourable The House of Commons, 
 dated 24 February 1871 ',—for, 
 
 " COPY or Extracts of CoRREsroNDENCE relating to the Mission of 
 Mr. Douglas Forsyth to Yarkand" 
 
 India OflBce, \ _ J. W. KAYE, 
 
 27 February 1871. J Secretary, Political and Secret Departments. 
 
 (No. 6 of 1871.) 
 
 Government of India — Foreign Department — Political. 
 
 To His Grace the Duke of Argyll, k. t.. Her Majesty's Secretary of State 
 
 for India. 
 
 My Lord Duke, Fort William, 1 1 January 1871. 
 
 We have the honour to forward, for the information of Her Majesty's Govern- 
 ment, a copy of the papers noted on the margin, (i.) Mr. Forsyth's Report.' dated 2nd D 
 relating to Mr. Forsyth S Report of his visit to (2.) From Punjab, dated 13 l)ecember 
 Yarkanrl No. 413-1370. 
 
 * "• (3.) To Punjab, dated 6th January 185 
 
 We have, &c. 
 
 (signed) Mayo. 
 
 John Strachey. 
 
 R. Temple. 
 " ' J. F. Stephen. ' 
 
 B. H. Ems. >f 
 ' , H.W. Norman. 
 
 From T. D. Forsyth, Esq., c.b., on Special Duty, to the Secretary to the 
 Government of Punjab, dated 2nd December 1870. 
 
 lit 
 
 j'i'ii 
 
 Sir, 
 When Mirza Mohamad Shadee, Envoy from the AtaUk Ghazee, Ruler of 
 Kashgar and the country known as Eastern Turkestan, had an interview with 
 the Viceroy of India at Calcutta, on the 28th March 1870, he preferred a 
 request, on behalf of his master, that a British Officer might be sent back with 
 him, on a friendly visit to the Court of the Atalik Ghazee, as an evidence of the 
 friendship existing between the two Governments, and with a view to strengthen 
 and cement it. • 
 
 2. Accordingly, the Foreign Secretary, Mr. C. U. Aitchison, c.s.i., in his 
 No. 5ap, dated 22nd April 1870, informed you that his Excellency the 
 Viceroy had been pleased to agree to this request, and to appoint me to be 
 employed on the proposed visit, and in accordance with the instructions for- 
 warded for my guidatice, I have now the honour to submit a report of my 
 proceedings. & 
 
 ,60, A 3. My 
 
2 CORRESPONDENCE RELATING TO 
 
 3. My instructions were to go to Yarkund merely on a friendly visit to the 
 Atalik Ghazee, and for the purpose of opening up and giving impulse to the 
 trade with that country. The visit was not in any sense a mission, and had no 
 political objects. I was ordered so to arrange my stay in the country that I 
 should run no risk of finding the passes closed by the winter's snows, and thus 
 of being detained in Yarkuud till next year. I was, however, to endeavour to 
 obtain tlie fullest and most reliable information possible regarding the prospects 
 of trade, the Indian staples that are most in demand, the nature and resources 
 of Yarkund and neiglibouring countries, their past and present history, and 
 generally any information of any kind which might be considered of interest. 
 
 4. To assist in collecting and recording such information, a staff of officers 
 and native subordinates was placed at my disposal, and a sum of 17)500 rupees 
 was allowed for the general expenses of the expedition, the distribution of which 
 was left to my discretion, a detailed and classified account being submitted by 
 me, on my return, for the information and sanction of Government. 
 
 5. The following persons formed the expedition to Yarkund : — 
 
 Mr. R. B. Shaw, the first Englishman who ever went to Yarkund, and who 
 may be called the pioneer of Central Asian trade with India, 
 
 Dr. Henderson, medical and scientific officer, subordinate to whom were — 
 
 Native Doctor Mohamad Yasseen. 
 
 One bird collector. 
 
 One plant collector. 
 
 Mir Akbar AH Khan Bahadoor, c.s.i., of Abyssinian celebrity, who acted as 
 native secretary. 
 
 Tsira Singh, an enterprising and intelligent Punjab merchant, who having 
 been to Yarkund, and being well acquainted with the country and people, offered 
 the services of himself and two brothers, and was appointed by me in charge of the 
 toshakhana and treasure chest. 
 
 Mullik Kutubud-din, appointed by the Maharaja of Cashmere to the charge 
 of my camp as it passed through his territory. 
 
 Ibrahim Khan, deputy inspector of police, in ciiarge of eight policemen, of 
 whom, however, only four went with the camp beyond Cashmere. 
 
 Dewan Buksh, native writer, formerly a Moonshee in Mr. Shaw's service 
 duriHg his visit to Yarkund. 
 
 Major Montgornerie, r.e., deputy superintendent, Great Trigonometrical 
 Survey, very kindly placed at my disposal the services of his chief pundit, who 
 was to join our party at the Pangong Lake. He also gave us useful maps and 
 instruments. 
 
 Huree Chund, son of Thakoor Tara Chund, the head-man of Lahoul, joined 
 my camp in Ladakli ; and Faiz Buksh Moonshee went round by way of Afghan- 
 istan, Budakhi-han, and over the Pamir to meet me in Yarkund. 
 
 6. My instructions were to join the Envoy at Leh, in Ladakh, at the end of 
 June ; and as Mr. Shaw, who was in England till the 20th May, could not join 
 us before the beginning of July,- the expedition could not be considered to be 
 fairly started till we reached Leh, Up to this point, also, the road has been so 
 frequently traversed ajid so fully described, that only a very cursory account of 
 the journey so far need be given here. 
 
 7. Leaving JuUundur on the 26ih April, I proceeded to Jummoo, and there 
 formed my camp. The Maharaja having undertaken to furnish carriage, pro- 
 visions, &c., on payment, Mullik Kutubud-din was appointed by his Highness to 
 accompany me in charge of the camp. He took from me, from time to time, a 
 list of requirements, and made out an indent on the local officials for the amount. 
 Knowing the ilifficult and inhospitable character of the country beyond Leh, 1 
 sent early intimation to the Wuzeer of Ladakh to lay out supplies of grain, grass, 
 and fuel along the road beyond the Changchenmo Vallev, and also at a point on 
 the old or Karakorum route, and to have good baggage ponies ready for the 
 camp. To this indent I received the Wuzeer's reply that everything should be 
 ready as desired. 
 
 8. From Jummoo my camp took the route over the Bunihdl Pass to Cash- 
 mere, and reached Sreenuggur on the 28th May, where I remained some days 
 awaiting the approach of the Yarkund Envoy, who, instead of preceding me to 
 
 U>.S3C^-z. Leh. 
 
MR. FORSYTH'S xMISSION TO YARKAND. 3 
 
 Leh, as he intended, lingered at Lahore foF the resceipt of some muskets which he 
 ad purchased in Calcutta for his master. 
 
 9. During my halt at Sreenuggur, I received a copy of the Foreign Secretary's 
 letter, dated 7th June, aljuding to rumours of disturbances having broken out in 
 the territories of the Atalik Ghazee, and directing me immediately to make every 
 exertion, both at Leh and elsewhere, to find out from the tra vellers from Yarkundf, 
 whom I should certainly meet on the road, from letters, and from other sources of 
 information, the exact position of affairs in that country. I then received the 
 following peremptory instructions: first, that unless I were satisfied that a 
 general state of peace similar to that which was said to have prevailed in Yarkund 
 up to the date of my departure still existed, I was to abandon at once my 
 intended journey ; and, second, that I should, in that case, make preparations for 
 my immediate return to India. 
 
 10. In accordance with these instructions, I took the following steps to gain 
 information : — 
 
 11. There are three routes to Yarkund from India? one, through Afghanistan 
 and Budakhshan ; another, from Cashmere, through Gilghit, Yasseen, and over 
 the Pamir ; the third, through Ladakh, and over the Karakorum Mountains. By 
 the fiirst route Faiz Buksh had already gone ; and any information that be could 
 pick up on the road, he would, I knew, transmit to me. I despatched Ibrahim 
 Khan by the Gilghit route, with instructions to proceed rapidly to Yarkund, and 
 thence, round by Sanju and Shadnlla, to join my camp, which I caicniated he 
 ought to do by the time I reached the Yarkund frontier. I was, fortunate in 
 falling in with Mr. Hayward, the Central Asian explorer, and from him picked 
 ujymuch valuable information, and sent another man with him, who was to make 
 his way across from Yasseen. This man was, however, murdered with Mr, 
 Hayward. I also had the advantage of conversing with Colonel Gardiner, to 
 whom I was indebted for sound counsel based on unrivalled experience and 
 knowledge of Asiatic character. Lastly, Tara Singh volunteered to go ahead 
 to Leh, and thence, in company of Huree Chund, to proceed to Shadulla, where 
 he expected to meet the caravans on their way to India from Hindostan, and to 
 learn from them and from the Kirghiz tribes, who wander about the valley of the 
 Karakash, the truth of the rumours which had reached the Government of India. 
 And as Leh was evidently the point to make for at once, as being the town 
 where the first authentic news from the countries beyond the mountains could 
 be obtained, I determined not to wait for the loitering envoy any longer, but to 
 start at once. Mir Akbar Ali Khan Bahadoor was despatched on the road to 
 Jummoo to bring up Mirza Shadee as fast as possible, and on the 14th June 
 Dr. Henderson and I left Sreenuggur for Leh. 
 
 12. Our march was enlivened by the company of two men, one of whom was 
 destined to take an important part in our future proceedings in Yarkund. 
 Kazee Syad Mahamad Yakoob, nephew of the Atalik Ghazee, went some years 
 ago from Kokand to Constantinople to lay the state of aft'airs in his native 
 country before the Head of the Faithful. 
 
 13. But on arrival at Constantinople he heard that his country was 
 disturbed, and he resolved to remain quietly there for about four years, and 
 then, having heard of the success of his uncle in Eastern Turkestan, took 
 the route of India and Cashmere to join his fortunes with Yakoob Beg in 
 Kashgar. 
 
 14. Mahamad Yakoob, being a Syud, and having performed the pilgrimage 
 to Mecca, had, of course, a high reputation for sanctity, and being otherwise a 
 man of character, had acquired great respect from all good Mahammadans. 
 I found him at Sreeriugger a guest of the Maharaja, as he had been a guest of 
 the British Government, and lodged in the house of one Khwaja Ghuffoor 
 Shah Nuksh-bundee, a person of note in Cashmere, of whom more may perhaps 
 be said hereafter. Mahamad Yakoob, besides considering himself a very holy 
 man, prided himself on being an accomplished author ; and as we sat down 
 together on a carpet under some wide- spreading plane trees to escape a shower 
 of rain; he ordered his servants to produce two well-bound and neatly^written 
 volumes, which he said he had composed whilst halting^ at Sreenugger. In his 
 
 60.. A 2 train 
 
4 CORRESPONDENCE RELATING TO 
 
 train was an Arab priest, who had come from Medina on a visit to Yarkund. 
 This man, named Khuleel, could scarcely speak a word of Persian, and -knew 
 nothing of any languages current in Hindostan, yet had made his way by 
 steamer up the Indus, and by way of Lahore, to Sreenuggur, where he placed 
 himself under the charge of Kazee Mahamad Yakoob. From his companions I 
 learnt that this Arab had been attracted to Kashgar by the fame of the Atalik's 
 liberality to all good Mahamadans, that ruler having made himself known at 
 Mecca by establishing and endowing a caravanserai there. Khuleel, in the 
 hope of obtaining a good sum of money, and possibly the endowment of a school 
 at Medina, brought some wonderful specimens of Arab books, Korans, &c, ; but, 
 unfortunately for human plans, in an evil moment the pony which carried the 
 precious load stumbled in crossing a ricketty bridge over the Dras river on the 
 road to Ladakh, and was precipitated into the torrent below. We saw Khuleel 
 standing on the bank, a perfect picture of despair at the loss of his books and 
 the ruin of his hopes. 
 
 15. Our march to Leh was accomplished with comfort and expedition, the 
 Cashmere officials being particularly attentive and active on this part of the 
 road. We reached the capital of Ladakh on the 2nd July, having been over- 
 taken on the road by the envoy, Mirza Shadee. 
 
 16. This man, like his master, is a native of Piskat, in Kokuud, and has 
 followed the fortunes of Yakoob Beg during his contests with the Russians, 
 and in his conquest of Eastern Turkestan. His office is that of moonshee 
 or secretary, and in this capacity was sent as the bearer of a letter to the 
 Russian General at Tashkend two years ago, and afterwards he went on to 
 St. Petersburgh, and immediately on his return to Kashgar was deputed to 
 Calcutta. One of the objects of his journey to India was to purchase arms, the 
 delay in procuring which apparently caused him to loiter, and was productive of 
 trouble to this expedition, as will be seen hereafter. He also brought with him 
 15 skilled artificers from the Punjab, to whom he promised employment on 
 liberal terms under the Atalik Ghazee. 
 
 17. Arrived at Leh, my first care was to make every inquiry into the truth of 
 the rumours of disturbances in Yarkund. During the vdnter months, or from 
 January till June, it is next to impossible for traders or travellers to cross the 
 snowy passes between Leh and Yarkund, and communication is therefore quite 
 at a standstill. Two or three messengers had been sent off from Cashmere in 
 May and June ; but the only arrival in Leh from Turkestan was that of one 
 Moolla Baki, a messenger sent by the Dadkhwah of Yarkund, with a letter to 
 Dr. Cayley. This man had left Yarkund in March or April, but had been 
 obhged to wait two months in Sanju till the passes were opened. Moolla Baki 
 was closely questioned, and reported everytljing- perfectly quiet in Turkestan. 
 He totally denied the existence of any disturbance an\ where within the 
 Atalik Ghazee's dominions, and the merchants in Leh, who were preparing 
 their goods for despatch across the mountains, joined in declaring their belief 
 that the story of disturbance was a fabrication. Dr. Cayley, who had come 
 to Leh from the Punjab by Kiillu and Lahoul, had arrived at the same 
 ccmclusion. 
 
 * 
 
 18. In order to impress upon the envoy, to the fullest extent, the respon- 
 sibility which devolved upon him in taking British officers into his country, I 
 addressed him a letter in Persian, in the terms of the one I had received from 
 the Government of India, and said that unless he could assure me that perfect 
 peace prevailed in the Atalik's territories, 1 could not proceed on my journey. 
 I added that it would be also necessary for him to assure me tliat in my move- 
 ments in Yarkund, and also as regards the date of my return, I should be left 
 wholly unfettered. I found it necessary to make this stipulation, because I knew 
 that Messrs. Shaw and Hayward had been kept close prisoners within their 
 house the whole time of their sojourn in the country. Mirza Shadee ridiculed 
 the idea of our being subjected to the same treatment, pointing out the difference 
 between solitary adventurers and invited guests from a great power. As reo-ards 
 our return, he frequently expressed the readiness of his master to let us come and 
 go just as we liked. At my request he sent a letter to tlie Foreign Secretary 
 giving the most ample assurance on these points. 
 
 19. Mr. 
 
MR. FORSYTH'S MISSION TO YARKAND. 5 
 
 19. Mr. R. B. Shaw joined the expedition at Leh on the 3rd July, having left 
 England only on the 20th May ; and our party being thus complete, and we 
 being already somewhat late in making our start, if we hoped to return the same 
 season, I did not think it wise to remain at Leh till Tara Singh and Iluree Chund 
 should return from ShaduUa with the latest news from Yarkund, as I knew we 
 should meet them on the road. 
 
 20. The preparations for our onward march required great care. The road 
 from Leh to Yarkund by the new or Chang-chenmo route passes for 27 marches 
 over completely uninhabited country, and for seven of these not a stick of fuel or 
 a blade of green grass is to be found. Provisions, therefore, for ourselves, our fol- 
 lowers, and baggage animals had to be taken, or laid out on the road. Our party 
 numbered altogether about 60 souls, including camp followers, &c., and 130 
 baggage animals. Then there was the envoy's party, with his train of 400 
 muskets and ammunition, packed in wooden boxes containing four or five 
 apiece ; they were found to be too long and too heavy to be carried on 
 the backs of ponies ; porters, therefore, had to be employed, and two men 
 were told off to each box. The number of mouths to be fed was thus increased 
 to a great extent. But due notice of our requirements was given to Wuzeer 
 Ali Akbar, the Maharaja's chief officer in Ladakh, and we were assured by 
 him that every arrangement had been made, evidence of which was visible in the 
 troops of ponies and yaks laden with grain, &c., which accompanied our camp. 
 
 21. When the baggage ponies intended for our own and the envoy's 
 •camp were brought out to be laden, their very lean and weak condition 
 excited our attention. I was assured by the Wuzeer that he had collected all 
 the best animals, and as he had assembled many rfiore than we actually required, 
 and there was no time for us to delay till other arrangements could be made, I 
 determined to start with them, weeding out day by day such as showed signs of 
 distress. The custom with traders in these parts is to engage with a carrier for 
 the transport of his goods at an uniform rate of Ms. 32. 10 = about 31. 5 s., for 
 a load of three maunds, or 240 pounds from Leh to ShaduUa, a distance of 20 
 marches. 
 
 22. As a strong Yarkundee pony carries with ease three maunds' weight, and 
 can be purchased for about 40 rupees or 50 rupees, i. e., 4 /. or 5 /., the rate of 
 hire thus paid is profitable to the carrier, wlio for this sum undertakes all risks ; 
 and'it is an understood thing that, for his own sake, as well as to secure the 
 merchant from delay or loss in transit, for every three or four laden animals one 
 spare poney is to be taken. 
 
 23. This arrangement I also entered into with tlie Wuzeer; but as his 
 animals were so very inferior, I agreed to make no load more than two maunds' 
 weight, and in most instances they rarely exceeded one and a-half maunds. 
 
 24. Having completed our preparations, on the 7th July the expedition 
 started from Leh. For the first two marches, our road lay along the right bank 
 of the Indus, till we came to the village of Chimrl, with its picturesque Buddhist 
 monastery. Here I was joined by Major Montgomerie's pundit, whose stay in 
 our camp was destined to be of brief duration. However desirous the Atalik 
 might be for the friendship of the British Government, and however enlightened 
 he individually might be, the Yarkund Government is as yet not sufficiently 
 imbued with European ideas to view without alarm the presence of " a chield 
 among them takin' notes," or to believe that surveys and inquiries, conducted 
 with the object of adding to general science, are not also intended to be the 
 
 precursor of invading armies. When, therefore, Pundit -'s arrival in my 
 
 camp was heralded by one of his followers, wearing a Government badge, and 
 announcing that a Government official was coming to survey the whole country 
 of Eastern Turkestan, the utmost alarm was created in the envoy's camp, to 
 allay which I was reluctantly obliged to abandon my hopes of solving many 
 interesting geographical pioblems put before us by Marco Polo, and to postpone 
 the pundit's visit till a more convenient season. 
 
 25. Leaving tlie bed of the Indus at Chimri we took a day's journey up a 
 valley tolerably well supplied with wood in the shape of willow and poplar trees 
 and with plenty of grass for 12 miles to the foot of the Chang La or North Pass. 
 "The ascent to the summit, 17,600 feet, is very easy, and the road having been 
 
 60. A 3 lately 
 
6 CORRESPONDENCE liELATlNG TO 
 
 latelj' repaired, all our baggage animals passed over without any difficulty. 
 The height was ascertained by observing the temperature of boiling water and of 
 the air, and the following comparison of beats of the human pulse may be con- 
 sidered of sufficient general interest to be given here : — 
 
 Dr. Henderson, who had walked to top of Pass - - 80 per minute. 
 Mr. Shaw, who rode -------94 „ 
 
 Mine, who rode - - - - -- - - 100 „ 
 
 Mullik Kutubud-din, a native of Punjab, who rode - 92 „ 
 
 A Bhot ser\ ant, native of Ladakh, who walked - - 78 „ 
 
 26. On the north side of the pass the road was somewliat more rugged ; but 
 care had been taken to remove the larger boulders, and to fill up the rough 
 parts with clods of eartii, so that not the slightest difSctilty was experienced in 
 the whole passage, and I may here notice that, on our return, we found the road 
 still more improved, and saw laden CEimels crossing the pass with perfect ease. 
 As this, though not quite that highest, is the most difficult pass between Ladakh 
 and ShaduUa, I have given all the-^e details. 
 
 27. An easy descent of 14 miles brought us to the village of Diirgoh, 011 the 
 branch of the Shyok river, where grass, water, and fuel were to be had in abun- 
 dance. Here 1 commenced the process of weeding out inefficient baggage cattle, 
 and 40 ponies were ordered to be got rid of. From Durgoh the road lies along 
 a well-grassed valley past the village of Tankse to Muglib. Tanks^ is the last 
 village deserving that name between Ladakh and Yarkund. For one or two 
 inarches we saw stones put together to form walls of roofless huts, and then for 
 the next three weeks all was desert waste. 
 
 28. About 10 miles beyond Muglib we reached the Pangong Lake, of which 
 Dr. Henderson took a photograph. From the west end of this lake, the new 
 road to Yaikund by the Chang-chenmo Valley branches off to the north, and 
 for a distance of about eight miles passes along a succession of vallevs well 
 covered with grass, and abundance of wild lavender and tamarisk for fuel is to 
 be found. On the morning of the 15th July we commenced our ascent of the 
 Marsimik Pass, marked by Mr. Haywardonhis map as 18,457 feet high, though 
 Dr. Henderson, on our return journey, by observing the temperature of boiling- 
 water, and by the aneroid barometer, made the height much lower. The ascent 
 from the south side is gradual and easy, and was accomplished on horseback 
 ■without the slightest fatigue. But the difficulty of breathijig, as we approached 
 within 2,000 feet of the summit, was felt by all. 
 
 29. The Schlagenlweit Brothers have thus recorded the result of their expe- 
 rience of high altitudes. 
 
 The influence which height exercises upon man, varies with the individual ; a man in 
 good health having the chance of less suffering. The difference of race has apparently 
 no appreciable importance. Our Hindu servants suffered far more from the cold than our 
 Tibetan companions, though not more from the diminished pressure. For the generality 
 of people the influence of height begins at 16,500 feet, a height nearly coinciding with 
 that of the highest pasture grounds visited by ahepherds. 
 
 The complaints produced by diminished pressure are, headache, difficulty of respiration, 
 and affection of the lungs, the latter even proceeding so far as to occasion blood-spitting, 
 want of appetite and even sickness, muscular wes^ness, and a general depression and 
 lowness of^ spirits. Bleeding of the nose we experienced ourselves, though very Tareiy, 
 the loss of blood on such occasions being insignificant ; but bleeding of the ears and Kps 
 we neither experienced personally, nor observed in others during our travels in High 
 Asia. Humbolt, however, states, that on the Antisana, at a height of 18,141 feet, his com- 
 panion, Don Carlos Montufar, bleeded heavily from the lips, and that duriaag the ascent 
 of the Chimborazo every one suffered from bleeding of the lipa and even thfi gums. 
 
 The effects here mentioned, which disappear in a healthy man almost simultaneously 
 with his return to lower regions, are not sensibly increased by cold, but the wind has a 
 most decided influence for the worse upon the feelings. As this was a phenomenon we had 
 not hitherto found mentioned by former observers, we directed our particular attention to 
 it, and remarked instances where fatigue had absolutely nothing to do with It. In the 
 plateaux of the Karakorum, it was a common occurrence, even for the sleepers in the tents 
 where they might be considered as somewhat protected, to be waked up in the night 
 with a heavy feehng of oppression, the entire, disturbance being traceable to a breeze 
 which had sprung up during the hours of rest. 
 
 The effects of diminished atmospheric presawre are considerably aggravated by fotieue 
 It is surprising to what a degree it is possible for exhaustion to. supervene ; even the act of 
 speaking is felt to be a, labour, and one gets as careless of comfort as of danger. 
 
 30. I observe 
 
MR. FORSYTH'S MISSION TQ YARKAND. 7 
 
 30. I observe in an extract from Baron Osten Sacken's account of his expe- 
 dition to the Trans-Naryn country, published by the Royal Geographical 
 Society, that the Cossacks and Kirghizes, who accompanied Captain Chaldeyeff 
 to the Suuk Pass on the Kasligardaban Chain, suffered much inconvenience from 
 the rarity of the atmosphere, at an elevation of only 12,740 feet. 
 
 31. My own experience was that, at any height above 16,000 feet, a good 
 breath, even when tho body was in a state of rest, was a luxury seldom enjoyed ; 
 but below that elevation 1 only felt distresf=ed when I exerted myself. In the 
 great heights a feeling of exhaustion and severe nausea were continuous, anddid 
 not leave me for the 10 or 12 days that we remained at elevations above 16,000 
 feet. On the return trip, however, tliis unpleasant feeling wore off to a great 
 extent. 
 
 32. Not a particle of snow was to be seen on our path, and the whole moun- 
 tain side presented a curious brown barren appearance. As little or no rain 
 ever falls in these regions, the hills are not cut up into deep ravines, but are 
 rounded into large gravelly slopes, off which the melted snow trickles down 
 into rivulets. Here and there, in the course of what had been these snow-fed 
 rivulets, small yellow patches of coarse grass were to be seen, but generally, the 
 scene presented a singularly arid, desert appearance. Behind us, and across the 
 large gorge which contained the Pangpng Lake, a splendid wall of mountains 
 rose to our view, with snow-clad peaks, and glaciers in every ravine. Descend- 
 ing on the north side by very gradual slopies across wide barren vallevs, and 
 entering a stony ravine, we came to the wide Cliang-chenino Valley, 16,000 feet 
 above the level of the sea. 
 
 33. This Chang-chenmo, or " Great Northern," is a long, broad valley, jier- 
 fectly bare and gravelly, with plateaux ranging tier above tier, betokening, 
 perhaps, the gradual subsidence, at some distant period, of a huue lake, or, judg- 
 ing from the present appearance of a sinaller but similar valley in the upper 
 Karakash, I incline to the opinion that these plateaux wire at one time enormous 
 ice-fields which gradually melted away. The turbid river flows through many 
 deep and rapid channels, rendering the passage of animals at this season of the 
 year a matter of some difficulty. Above, and on all sides, the mountains rise to 
 a height of 19,000 feet, here and there capped with snow, but generally pre- 
 senting a remarkable sameness of round disintegrated rock. The eye wanders 
 in vain search for some grand distinguishing peaks, and longs to find relief in 
 some soft vegetation, or some forest tract. Except a few tamarisk bushes 
 on the banks of the river, no sign of vegetable life is visible, and a sense of 
 weariness comes over the whole frame from the dull monotonv of these desert 
 hills. 
 
 34. This is the farthest point to which the Maharaja of Cashmere has 
 extended any sign of his authority, as he has erected small storehouses for grain 
 at the different marches as far as Gogra, at the head of this valley. All traces 
 of the Buddhist religion, in the erections of raarus or heaps of stones, with the 
 mystical words " Om mani padmi hun" carved on them by Llamas, ceased on 
 the south side of the Marsimik Pass. 
 
 35. Here we made a halt, to overhaul all our camp arrangements, and prepare 
 for crossing the plain, which literally is on the top of the world, and separates 
 Central Asia from Hindostan, 
 
 36. When the muster of baggage animals was taken, our first impulse was to 
 reject every one as unfit to stand the severe journey before us. A more sorry 
 Jot it would be diflScult to collect. 
 
 37. But as it was impossible to supply their places, and had we halted till 
 fresh animals could be procured from Leh, a delay of more than a fortnight 
 would have occurred, and our stores of provisions would have been exhausted, 
 we only rejected the worst, and these amounted to 70. We learnt some time 
 afterwards, that a process of weeding had been secretly carried on by the subor- 
 dinate Ladakh officials, by which their pockets were filled, and we were deprived 
 of the services of some of the best animals. 
 
 38. All superfluous followers and Cashmere guards were here dispensed with, 
 and having calculated the exact quantity of grain and provisions requisite for the 
 
 60. A 4 camp. 
 
8 CORRESPO^'DENCE RELATING TO 
 
 camp, the Wuzeer was informed by me of our wants, and declared that every 
 kind of supply was ready. He also announced his intention of remaining m the 
 Chang-chenmo Valley, till he should hear of our reaching the Karakash river, 
 so as to be at hand to send us help if required. 
 
 39. On the 19th July, we parted company with Wuzeer Ali Akbar, and com- 
 menced the most difficult part of our march. The grain required for our baggage 
 animals was laden on some 60 yaks, and placed in charge of the Wuzeer s 
 subordinates, who were to deal it out to our and the Yarkundee's camp day by 
 day. Our road lay up a red clayey ravine for eight mile;* to some remarkable 
 hot soda springs, jutting out of the river bed. Large cones of a kind of soda are 
 fonued, from the top aud sides of which the hut spring emits its jets. 
 
 40. Dr. Cayley, who had accompanied our camp from Leii, preceded us from 
 the Chang-chenmo, and guided our steps to an easier pass than the one marked 
 out for us by the Casiimere officials. In fact, though the Chang Lenn La is not 
 less than 19,000 feet above the level of the sea, the ascent was so gradual as to 
 be scarcely noticed. From thence, on the north side, the high table-land which 
 connects the Karakorum and Kuen Luen Ranges may be said to commence. 
 The Pamir has hitherto been called the Bam-i-dunya, or ro:>f of the world, being 
 an extensive plateau 15,000 feet or more above the sea. But it is covered with 
 grass, and is frequented during the summer months by shepherds with their 
 flocks. But the Aksai Chin, as it is sometimes called, or White Chinese Plain, 
 of which the Linzi Thung, Dipsi Kol, and Thaldat are only different parts, 
 ranges from 16,000 feet to 19,000 feet, and being destitute of anything deserving 
 the name of vegetation, is, as compared to the Pamir, very much what the out- 
 side of the dome is to the roof of St. Paul's. 
 
 41. Though we were fortunate in finding so easy a pass as I have described, 
 still both man and beast were fairly exhausted when we reached our halting-place 
 at Nischu. Here very scanty roots of the Boortse plant were all that could be 
 got for fuel, and not a blade of grass was to be had for the animals, and we 
 looked anxiously for the arrival of the grain which we had seen being carried on 
 yaks the day before. It was a remarkable and significant fact, that though 
 every other particle of baggage arrived safe and punctually, not a single load of 
 grain made its appearance. Urgent messages and letters were sent back to the 
 Wuzeer to forward the missing grain, but only five loads were brought up the 
 next day, and no answer came from the Wuzeer. As the misconduct of this 
 official has formed the subject of separate correspondence, and he has been dis- 
 missed for his offences, I need only remark here, that it has been satisfactorily^ 
 proved that Wuzeer Ali Akbar knew that the whole of our grain was kept back, 
 and instead of sending assistance on receipt of our uriient applications, he hurried 
 away from the Chang-chenmo towards Leh, and then excused himself from 
 giving aid because lie was too far off. 
 
 42. Meanwhile we, in our lofty encampment at Nischu, were placed in a 
 dilemma. If we wished to do so, v\e could not halt there, for there was no fuel 
 and no fodder. If we went back to the Chang-chenmo it was very doubtful 
 whether our animals, weak and starved, could ci'oss and re-cro.«s the Chang Leng- 
 La three times ; and if we halted at Gogra, either to recruit our ponies, or to get 
 fresh animals from Leh, the season would slip away, and the expedition must 
 fail. If we went on, we should have one more march without grass, and at the 
 end of the third day, we hoped to find a grazing ground. The decision, there- 
 fore, was manifestly in 1'avour of an advance. 
 
 43. The road from Nischu to the commencement of the Linzi Thung Plain? 
 follows the course of the stream for about six miles, and then crosses a high 
 plateau for three more miles, at the end of which we came to an abrupt descent 
 of about 500 feet. From the brink of this descent a very grand and extra- 
 ordinary view presented itself. On the extreme left, or west, a row of jagged 
 peaks shooting up into the sky marked the line of the Karakorum Range ; thence- 
 along our left, and losing themselves in a high range to the north, round knolls 
 sharp peaks, and undulating walls of mountains bounded the Linzi Thuno- Plain'. 
 Far away to the north, and forming a barrier wall across the horizon, spread the 
 Kuen Luen Range, whose snowy peaks rivalled in height and grandeur the 
 highest points of the Karakorum. Beneath us lay a vast barren desert, extend- 
 ing 
 
MR. FORSYTH'S MISSION TO YARKAND. o 
 
 ing from the Karakorum Range to the far east. The breadth of this plain was 
 apparently but a few miles, though in reality not less than 25 miles, and was 
 bounded to the north by a range of comparatively low fantastic-shaped hills, 
 which formed themselvts into domes, towers, and minaret-shaped craggs. 
 Wherever the eye roamed, nought but desolation met the view, a dreary desert 
 filled with gloom. 
 
 44. We descended to the plain, and after about two hours' hard march 
 reached our encampment, in the dry bed of a stream. Fuel was procured by 
 plucking up the roots of the Boortse plant ; but there was no fodder for horses, 
 and water of a muddy kind could only be obtained by digging holes in the 
 ground. 
 
 45. Our next day's march brought us, past the dome-shaped hills, into the 
 Lok Zang valley, where we found a small quantity of coarse grass. This our 
 animals, who had been now for three days without any sustenance, eagerly 
 devoured. Many liad died on the road, and all the survivors were in a most 
 exhausted state. It will be easily understood that at this point our position was 
 most critical. Ail hope of further aid from the Wuzeer was out of the ques- 
 tion. We were quite 100 miles from human help, and were perched, as it were, 
 on the top of the world. It was impossible to halt beyond a day or two, for 
 delay wotild have proved fatal to the whole camp, for which we had only a 
 certain number of days' supply. We determined, therefore, to select as many 
 animals as seemed fit, alter a day or two's rest and grazing, and to take just as 
 much of our camp as could be carried by them, and the porters we had. The 
 rest of the camp was left in charge ot Mir Akbar All Khan and Mullik Kutubud- 
 din, who were supplied with provisions and told to wait till fresh carriage could 
 be procured from Ladakh. They followed us to Shadulla, in the course of a 
 week after. 
 
 46. Mirza Shadee and Kazee Mahamad Yakoob, leaving the chief portion 
 of their camp, with iheir ladies behind, started off by double marches for 
 Shadulla, whence they promised to send help of all kinds. 
 
 47. Whilst halting at Lok Zang we were met by Tara Singh and Huree 
 Chund on their return from Shadulla, where they had fallen in with the Kirghiz 
 shepherds, from whom, as well as from the Yarkund soldiers who guarded the 
 Fort of Kinghan, they heard that perfect peace reigned throughout the Atalik's 
 dominions. This appeard such a complete corroboration of the news brought 
 by Moolla Baki to us at Leh, that we were all the more encouraged and anxious 
 to push on our way. 
 
 48. On the 25th July we prepared to resume our march ; but found to our 
 dismay that, out of the small number of serviceable ponies which we had selected 
 and made over to the Bhot captain in charge of our camp, 26 had been made 
 away with during the night. After some delay and trouble, we were once more 
 on the road, and reached Thaldat plain (26th), where we encamped near some 
 ice-beds. The heat during the day on these plains was intense, the rarity of the 
 air causing the sun's rays to strike with great force, whilst at night the ther- 
 mometer fell to 7"- Close by the ice-beds on the undulating plain we found 
 quantities of a kind of topaz, which glittered like diamonds in the sun, and 
 attracted our attention from a long distance. 
 
 49. From Thaldat we took a north-western direction, and crossing a low pass 
 in the hollows, finding a very scanty supply of coarse, withered grass, which 
 was eagerly devoured by the animals, we came to the large soda plain. This 
 plain is the dry bed of three salt or soda lakes, the waters of which subsiding 
 have left a thick deposit of crystals of salt and soda, and the whole place is 
 one vast bed of Glauber's salt. The crust is from six inches to a foot thick, 
 and the ponies' feet sank in with a crackling sound, as if they were going 
 over ice. 
 
 50. The glare from this soda is just as bad as from the snow, and the fine 
 particles which fly up fill the eyes, nostrils, and mouth, and give a most 
 unpleasant taste. Fortunately we crossed this inhospitable plain before noon, 
 though we did not escape entirely without the loss of some baggage animals. 
 Later in the day, when the wind usually blows with great violence, a thick 
 
 6o. B cloud 
 
10 CORRESPONDENCE RELATING TO 
 
 cloud 01 soda dust is raised, which would be fatal to animal life. We saw the 
 remaios of a portion of some former kafila, which must have been overtaken 
 and suffocated by the storm. We encamped at the north end of this valley 
 (27th), where we found coarse grass in abundance. Water of the usual brackish, 
 muddy description was procured here, as elsewhere on the plain, only by digging 
 holes in the ground. 
 
 51. We had now crossed the great high desert, and were within one march 
 of the Karakash river. In front of us rose the snowy wall of the Kuen Luen, 
 along the south of which the Karakash river flows. A march of 10 miles 
 brought us to this water, which, though brackish, was clear and abundant, 
 and afforded an agreeable change from the 'muddy liquid we had subsisted on 
 for the last week. Following the course of this river for about 15 miles 
 further, and through as bleak and desolate a valley as any part of the desert 
 we had just left, we came lo a good supply of tamarisk bushes and al)undant 
 grass. 
 
 52. I must mention an incident here, which shows the contrast between the 
 ponies of Ladakh and of Yarkund, and perhaps something else. Just as we 
 arrived at our encamping ground, our animals completely wearied and worn out 
 with the long march, we disturbed a herd of wild horses, which were quietly 
 grazing, ignorant of our approach. Immediately the ladies, whom Kazee 
 Mahamad Yakoob had left behind in our camp, as I have already mentioned, 
 mounted their Yarkund ponies and started off in pursuit, and soon the whole 
 Yarkundee camp was flying all over the plain ; whilst we with only worn out, 
 weak Ladakh ponies had to content ourselves with looking on. At this point 
 we were joined by Dr. Cayley, who had taken the route across the Linzi Thung 
 plain, westward to the upper Karakash river, whose waters he followed till they 
 joined the main stream, and brought him to our camp. 
 
 53. We then marched together down the Karakash valley. High snowy peaks 
 tower above the valley on both sides, and frorn countless ravines rivulets of 
 water pour down to swell the main stream, the waters of which were rising 
 rapidly everj' day, rendering it difficult at times to find a ford. Patches of grass 
 were to be found after long stretches of completely barren ground. The sky 
 was filled with a very fine dust, which appeared more like haze than palpable 
 substance, and the heat by day was intense. A more uninteresting journey than 
 that down the Karakash for five days it would be difficult to find. 
 
 54. On our third day's journey, we received a letter from Mirza Shadee and 
 Kazee Mahamad Yakoob, written from ShaduUa, and telling us that some 200 
 yaks, horses, sheep, besides fruits, melons, and other good things, were on their 
 way to us. Moreover, he added, that the Atalik Gbazee was at Kashgar awaiting 
 our arrival with the utmost pleasure. Soon after 40 yaks, some of them laden 
 with grain, made their welcome appearance Not a day too soon did they 
 arrive, for we were then reduced to great straits, as our limited stock of pro- 
 visions had been heavily indented upon, not merely by our own camp, but by 
 the parties who ought to have brought their own food, but whose provisions ran 
 short many days before. Not content with the small allowance which was doled 
 out with an equal hand to all our followers, these Bhots took to stealing flour 
 from the bags as they were carried on the road. 
 
 55. At Goolbashar, the fourth march down the Karakash river, we came to 
 the celebrated jade quarries, which supplied the Chinese in former days with 
 this precious stone ; but, since their expulsion from Turkestan, the quarries have 
 been closed. There is one other quarry in the Yurangash Valley, from which 
 jade to a small extent was taken out. Nowhere else, I believe, is jade to be 
 found. The Chinese never claimed any property in this Karakash Valley, 
 though they are supposed to have first discovered the quarries ; and as they took 
 possession of Yarkund and Khoteh only as late as a.d. 1740, the existence of 
 this precious stone would appear to have been known for little more than a 
 century aud a quarter. I merely give this information as I have received it, and 
 doubt not that any one who cares to pursue the inquiry may be able to throw 
 more light than I can on the subject. I understand that large quantities of 
 serpentine and another kind of jade come from the hills north of Burmah. 
 
 56. Here 
 
MR. FORSYTH'S MISSION TO YARKAND. ii 
 
 &6. Here we made our first acquaintance with the Kirghiz, of whom the chief, 
 or akskal (whitebeard), Islam Beg, came to pay his respects. These Kirghiz 
 are a branch of tlie great nomad tribe which inhabit or wander over the chain of 
 mountains extending from the Alai and Tian Shan range to the Pamii-. This 
 particular branch used to graze their flocks and herds on the Pamir and around 
 Sirikul, but migrated eastward about 70 years ago. At present they occupy the 
 mountain slopes above Sanju, and during the summer months frequent the 
 Karakash valley. A branch of the Wakhi tribe, who, as their name denotes, 
 came originally from Wakhan, have for the present settled on the Kilian Passes 
 and hills west of the Sanju Pass. The akskal of this tribe also made his 
 appearance with his followers and their yaks in our camp. There was a marked 
 difference in the features of these two tribes. The Kirghiz had the broad flat 
 face belonging to the Mongolian type, whilst the high- bridged nose and sharp 
 features of the Wakhis told their connection with the Aryan family of the human 
 race. The difference in features was not more marked than the difference in the 
 manners of the two tribes. 
 
 57. In the good-humoured, open faces of the Kirghiz we could read the 
 friendly hospitality and heaity sociability of their character, and in spite of the 
 difficulty in communicating ^ith a people who could speak nothing' but a Turki 
 patois, our servants and camp-followers soon became fast friends with the 
 Kirghiz, who seemed to delight in giving every help to the guests of their 
 master, the Atalik Ghazee. On the other hand, the surly, ill-tempered 
 countenances of the Wakhi Chief and his followers did not belie their disposr- 
 tionsj quick to take offence and slow to render any service ; and we came to 
 the unanimous conclusion that, should difficulty arise regarding our return, it 
 would be better to trust to the tender mercies Of the Kirghiz than to fall into the 
 cruel hands of the Wakhis. 
 
 58. It was pleasing to see the evident delight with which the Kirghiz 
 welcomed Mr. Shaw's re-appearance amongst them, and the first day or two was 
 spent in perpetual tea-drinking and stroking of beards in his tent. 
 
 59. One day's journey from Goolbashar brought us to Balakchi, near the fort 
 of ShaduUa, where the envoy, Mirza Shadee, and Kazee Mahamad Yafcoob were 
 encamped ready as Tiosts to receive us. The river had risen greatly during the 
 last few days, and we had some difficulty in crossing. On arrival at Balakchi, 
 the envoy sent a tent for us to rest in till our own camp arrived, and soon after 
 came to receive us, bringing melons, Russian sugarcandy, rasins, &c. He bid 
 us welcome to Yarkund territory, and declared that the Atalik Ghazee was all 
 impatience to see us. He then disclosed the news, which he professed only to 
 have heard the day before, that the Atalik Ghazee had been absent for seven 
 months on an expedition as far as Oorumtsi, where he had experienced much 
 fighting and had completely- conquered all the country between Kuldja and 
 Oorumtsi. He had appointed a Turra Khoja to be ruler of Kuldja and Kalma- 
 kistan and was now returning to Kashgar with 1,000 prisoners and much 
 treasure. The envoy assured us that perfect peace prevailed throughout the 
 territories of the Atalik. 
 
 GO. This news caused us considerable anxiety, for though, if true, it accounted 
 satisfactorily for the rumours of disturbance which had reached the Viceroy's 
 ears, still it was difficult to believe that MoUa Baki, whom we had seen at Leh, 
 knew nothing about the king's absence ; and it was remarkable that neither 
 Tara Sing nor Huree Chand should have gleaned intelligence of the truth when 
 they came to Shadulla. It was impossible, however, to test the truth of the 
 envoy's statement, as no traders had yet met us from Yarkund, and it was out 
 of our power to halt till we could get further information, for we were wholly 
 dependent on the Yarkund envoy for supplies which were limited. Shadulla 
 being the point where the old or Karakorum route joins the new road, and being 
 the boundary of the Yarkund territory, we discharged all our Ladakh carriers and 
 porters, to whom Mirza Shadee gave from his stores enough provisions to take 
 them back to their homes. Dr. Cayley also arranged to leave us here, and to 
 take a new route back to the Chang-chenmo, so as to explore the country 
 thoroughly. Being still seven days' journey from Sanju, the nearest village in 
 Yarkund, it was difficult for the envoy to meet all these demands on his store of 
 provisions, and he urged upon me the necessity for our pushing on into more 
 civilized parts. 
 
 6q. b 2 61. On 
 
12 CORRESPONDENCE RELATING TO 
 
 61. On the 7th August we commenced our march as guests of the Atalik 
 Ghazee in Yarkund territory. Our course still lay down the Karakash river, 
 which we had to cross twice in one day, a matter of difficulty and danger in 
 consequence of the height of the water. 
 
 62. Passing on the left bank the Fort of ShaduUa, a small inclosure built of 
 stone some years ago and manned by Cashmere soldiers, but now entirely 
 deserted, we halted for the night by the side of a hill torrent called the Toghra-su, 
 which was impassable except at an early hour, before the melting snows on the 
 hill above had swelled the stream below. The scenery in this part of the valley 
 is wild in the extreme, the overhanging precipices and bold rocks giving a weird 
 appearance to the valley. Our passage of the Toghra-su was effected with 
 safety, but not without great difficulty, owing to the rapidity of the torrent, and 
 the rocky nature of the river bed. Here again the Yarkund ladies distinguished 
 themselves as skilful and plucky horsewomen. 
 
 63. In this and the next day's journey we met some traders coming from 
 Yarkund. They gave the same story regarding the Atalik's movements as had 
 been told by the envoy, but subsequently we fell in with a Punjabee trader from 
 whom we learnt that affairs in Yarkund were not quite as Mirza Shadee had 
 described ; for though perfect peace reigned in Kashgar and Yarkund, the Atalik 
 was supposed to be still absent at the seat of war. The merchants bound for 
 India had not been allowed to leave Yarkund until news arrived of our approach 
 to Shadulla, and the strictest orders were given prohibiting the communication 
 of any news likely to induce us to abandon our visit. 
 
 64. Leaving the valley of the Karakash river at Mazar Abu Bekr, we took a 
 day's march up a narrow rocky ravine, and crossed the Grim Pass, 16,612 feet 
 high. The assent was stiff and tedious, and had to be performed on yaks. On 
 reaching the top, we expected to have a fine panorama of the Yarkund plains, 
 but the .thick haze which filled the atmosphere prevented all view, and we after- 
 wards found that for four more marches no sign of the plain could be seen. The 
 descent' on the north side was exceedingly precipitous and tedious, rendering 
 the pass,. as is well known to all traders, impracticable for laden horses or camels, 
 and thus placing merchants and travellers in the hands of the Kirghis, who 
 derive a thriving trade by hiring out their yaks for the transport of goods over 
 the pass. Their charges vary from one to two rupees per yak for each trip, and 
 the traders have often to await the convenience or excite the cupidity of these 
 nomad carriers. 
 
 65. After a descent of two hours from the summit of the pass, we came to 
 Kichik Yilak, or, as its name implies, the summer encampment of the Kirghiz. 
 Here for the first time I saw the Yoort or Akooee, i.e., white round tents which 
 form the home of these people. The tent is constructed of lattice work, round 
 which felt pieces are wrapped. The top is rounded into the form of a dome, 
 with a large hole in the centre, to allow of the smoke to escape, and also to give 
 light. There is one small door. No poles or ropes are required, and the lattice 
 frame is so constructed that it easily folds up when the tent has to be struck for 
 a move. The floor of the tent is covered with felt rugs, and looking into one, I 
 saw a screen put up to make an inner apartment for the women, the rest of the 
 tent being shared by children, men, sheep, dogs, and any visitors who may choose 
 to enter and sit round the fire, on which the never-failing teapot stands. 
 Twenty of these Yoorts form the Aoul or encampment at Kichik Tilak, and from 
 them a yearly tribute of three Yambu or silver ingots, each worth 170 rupees is 
 taken by the Atalik Ghazee. 
 
 66. Here we met more Indian traders who fully corroborated the story given 
 on the other side of the pass ; and as there was no longer doubt of the absence 
 of the Atalik, and very great doubt as to the date of his return, I had no option 
 left me but to act on the instructions received from the Government of India 
 and to defer the prosecution of the expedition till another season. When, how- 
 ever, I announced to Mirza Shadee my intention of returning, he pointed out the 
 impossibility of my doing so without going as far as Yarkund to refit my camp 
 for the journey. It was of course as impossible to traverse the high desert we 
 had just left without proper baggage, animals, and provisions, as it would be to 
 cross the ocean without ships and stores ; and as Mirza Shadee assured me 
 
 (very 
 
MR. FORSYTH'S MISSION TO YARKAND. 13 
 
 rvery correctly as I found by experience) that neither carriage nor supplies could 
 be got without the orders of the Dadkhwah, and not in fact without our going 
 into Yarkiind itself to make our arrangement in person, it was agreed that I 
 should delay my return for 25 days, within which time the Envoy promised to 
 furnish me with everything necessary lo take me back to Leh. Letters 
 were written at once to the Da,dkhwah in Yarkund, and Mirza Shadee dis- 
 patched a messenger with letters to the Atalik Ghazee. 
 
 67. Our march down tl.'e Sanju river to Tam was over grassy meadows or 
 hillside. The banks of the river all the way down are fringed with wood. 
 Below Tam the valley contracts into a narrow defile, across which the Chinese 
 in former days had thrown a wall to protect themselves from the invasions of 
 Kirghiz and other mountain robbers. The stream below this being too deep for 
 our horses to ford, we had to take a circuitous route across the Chuchu Pass, 
 11,000 feet, and descended the Arpalak river. In the valleys we found an 
 abundance of partridge and chikor, and the snow pheasant, of which we saw 
 countless coveys on the higher Sanju Pass, was seen and shot on the Chuchu 
 Pass. There too flocks ot ibex and burrul wandered close by our path, and 
 showed no alarm at our approach. 
 
 68. Tlie mountain sides were bare and covered with a thick coat of dust, the 
 white clayey surface having been pulverised by the action of the atmosphere ; 
 but as no rain ever falls in those parts, the dust is only disturbed by traveller's 
 feet, and then sutifbcating clouds are raised, such as I have never seen elsewhere. 
 On the banks of the Arpalak river, it was a relief to find good grass, and a pro- 
 fusion of bushes covered with the yellow China rose. 
 
 69. We halted for several days at a pleasant spot on the valley to await the 
 reply from the Dadkhwah. Here we were introduced to the Asiatic custom of 
 the dusterkhan, literally table cloth. Kasim Akhoond Begi, of Zungia, a town 
 about 20 miles on the road between Gooma and Khoten, arrived in camp with 
 fruits, &c., and presented himself before us. Having received him at the door of 
 my tent, we seated ourselves on the ground, more Usbeco', and then a coloured 
 table cloth was spread before us, and melons, pears, grapes, apricots, nectarines, 
 sugared almonds, and biscuits were displayed. The custom is for the guest to 
 break a piece of bread or biscuit, and then invite his host and companions to 
 join in the feast. He aiso offers them cups of green tea, of which, unmixed with 
 milk or sugar, a true Yarkundee or Andijani will ' drink a considerable number. 
 Conversation on the part of the host at the first meal is not considered pohte. 
 After a little while the fruit is removed, any crumbs of bread which may have 
 fallen are carefully placed on the table cloth, which is taken away, beards are 
 stroked, and every one says Allah Akbur, and then the host suddenly gets up 
 and runs out of the tent. The reason of this being, as I am told, that he is 
 supposed to be anxious to get away without putting his guest to the trouble of 
 getting up to bid him good-bye. 
 
 70. Mirza Shadee grew very impatient at our halting ; but I did not feel 
 justified in making any advance until I had some reliable information to go 
 upon. It was evident that Mirza Shadee had either been deceived himself, or 
 had wilfully deceived us as to the movements of the Atalik Ghazee, and therefore 
 I had to seek more trustworthy intelligence, Kazee Mahamad Yakoob here left 
 our camp for Yarkund. We had found him a pleasant and valuable companion ; 
 his near relationship to the Atalik, his evident influence, and his intelligence and 
 experience rendering his advice to, and control over, the somewhat impetuous 
 envoy a matter of importance to the expedition. Mirza Shadee also took his 
 departure, hoping thereby to force me to change my determination, but I re- 
 mained firm. At last on the 1 5th August a letter came from the Dadkhwah 
 informing me that the Atalik Ghazee had completed the subjugation of the 
 provinces which he had gone to conquer, and there was hope that he would 
 return speedily to the capital. I was further informed tliat every preparation 
 liad been made for our proper reception, and that an officer of rank had been 
 sent to Sanjee to meet and escort us in. 
 
 71. So far as regarded the probability of the Atalik returning soon to Kashgar, 
 I might be excused for having considerable doubts whether the wish might not 
 be father to the Dadkhwah's hopes ; and as my instructions were peremptory, I 
 
 60. B 3 could 
 
14 CORRESPONDENCE RELATING TO ■ 
 
 could make no pledge, nor hold out any hope of our remaining in the country a 
 day beyond the time agreed upon for the supply of carriage and provisions, ont 
 peace being known to prevail in Yarkund itself, and there being a mamtest 
 necessity for visiting that place in order to get the requisites for our return 
 journey, I determined to accept the Dadkhwah's urgent; invitation, and gO on to 
 Yarkund. 
 
 72. At Kizil Lungur, about 15 miles from Sanju, we came to a pretty cultivated 
 and wooded spot, a small oasis in a long desert, such as we subsequently became 
 accustomed to look for with avidity. Here leaving the Arpalak valley, we crossed 
 a low sandy ridfte and descended to the plains of Yarkund. A few miles from 
 Sanju we were met by Tash Khoja Yuzbashee or centurion, who had been sent 
 by the Dadkhwali to act hs our Mihmandar or host. Tash Khoja is a Tajik, and 
 speaks Persian with a broad, rough accent. He has a peculiarly frank, pleasant 
 face and manner, and like most of the Kohkundi, or, as they prefer calling them- 
 sel\es, the Andijani officers, is of a very jovial turn of mind. He was mounted 
 on a handsome black Andijani horse, and followed by soldiers well mounted, 
 and carrying matchlocks, to which are attaciied pronged supports on which to 
 rest the gun when taking aim. Soon after noon we dropped, as it were, from 
 the desert upon a richly wooded green ravine, along which lay a succession of 
 hamlets, gardens, and groves, all which put together constitutes Sanju. We 
 passed through fields of wheat, wild oats, hemp, Indian corn, and skirted 
 gardens full of apples, pears, peaches, and walnuts, and found ourselves suddenly 
 in front of Mirza Shadee's tent, pitched on an earthen platform in front of a wide 
 meadow, through which canals of water flowed. The sight of so much green 
 turf and large shady trees, giving the appearance of an English village to the 
 scene, was indeed a refreshing relief after the weeks we had endured of rocks 
 and desert desolation. 
 
 73. Mirza Shadee received us in a tent spread with Khoten carpets and felt 
 rugs. The usual dusterkhan was spread, and fruits of all kinds put before us. 
 After we had taken what might be considered a substantial lunch, to our surprise 
 dishes of meat began to arrive, and this we were told was the correct Andijani 
 custom, first fruit and sweets, then meat, and last of all soup. The entrei con- 
 sisted of minced meat very delicately seasoned, done up in paste and cooked in 
 steam. Then followed the ash or pillau of well boiled mutton and rice with 
 shredded carrots ; * the whole wound up with a basin of thick mutton broth with 
 rice or barley and flavoured with a slight acid. In front of us stood a boy with 
 teapot in hand, from which he supplied perpetual cups of weak green tea to the 
 guests. The cuisine of a Yarkund host would commend itself to the most 
 fasiidious Englishman's palate. Everything in the kitchen is kept most scrupu- 
 lously clean. The cooks wear neat aprons and are particular in using clean 
 vessels. They cook with good butter and by steam, and can serve up a variety 
 of entreis and entrimets that would render a dinner a la Yarkundee popular 
 even in London. 
 
 74. Following the custom of the country, we bestowed Khillats or dresses of 
 honour on Kasim Akhoond and Roza Beg, who had thus far discharged the 
 duty of hosts to us ; as well as on Tash Khoja, who was to assume this office for 
 the future. For Tash Khoja, as highest in rank, I had prepared a green satin 
 robe, made after the fashion of Yarkund Chogas ; for Kasim Akhoond a white 
 shawl, and for Roza Beg a valuable turban were selected. When, however, I 
 came to bestow these on them, Tash Khoja made a show of refusal which lasted 
 for a long time. This, however, is nothing more than the "Yarkund custom of 
 enhancing as it were the value of the present, and Mr. Shaw informed me 
 that he has known a man go through this form for more than an hour, nothing 
 being in reality further from their intention than that they should be taken at 
 their word, and I subsequently found that nothing offended an ofiicial more than 
 to send him empty-handed away. On one occasion, when, owing to the baggage 
 having gone on ahead, I had no garment to bestow, Mirza Shadee took off his 
 own robe and lent it for the occasion, rather than that the custom should be 
 infringed. 
 
 . 75. In 
 
 +. •Monsieur Vambery descrU)es this dish in his interesting Book of Tiavela in Central Asia, and alludes 
 to the many dishes peculiar to Yarkund cookery. ' »"uues 
 
MR. FORSYTH'S MISSION TO YARKAND. 15 
 
 75. In the evening we saw what constitutes a village bazaar in Yarkund. 
 The peasants collected in the meadow, bringing cattle, fowls, or articles of 
 clothing for sale. Then the greybeards slowly joioed the scene, and seating 
 themselves on the ground, began probably to discuss the late stranger's Jirrival, 
 or passed an opinion on the animals for sale. When an official mingled in the 
 throng, he was received with respectful salutation, but there was an easy freedom 
 in their manner, and an absence of all Hindostani cringing, which was pleasant 
 to observe. Our hosts and almost all the officers of the Atalik's Government 
 are quite alien to the countr}', having only lately come fiom Kokhund, and I 
 found them often ignorant of the names and situations of the, different villages ; 
 hut being all of one religion, the conqueror and conquered mix together in 
 terms of friendly equality. They eat and drink together, and with Englishmen 
 likewise, affording a striking contrast to the relations which exist between our- 
 selves and the people of India. 
 
 76. On the morning of the 17th August we took our departure from~ Sanju 
 for Yarkund. For a mile or two the road lay, as it had done the day before, 
 through orchards and cornfields, under shady trees and over meadows. Then 
 crossing the main stream of the river, whose waters spread over the valley 
 liad coiiverted a waste into this glorious garden, we ascended a sandy hill and 
 plunged into the great desert, which stretches from the foot of the Kuen Luen 
 range far away to the north, where it is known as the Great Desert of Gobi. 
 For the first five or six miles our road layover hillocks and through ravines, 
 and then we came upon the broad expanse of waste. Here and there a stream 
 finds its way from the mountains for a little distance, fringing the sides in its 
 course willi grass and shrubs. Sometimes a larger river forces its way across 
 the plain and cuts a deep valley for itself, in which a string of hamlets with 
 richly cultivated fields is generally to be found. 
 
 77. All these oases in the great desert form convenient halting places for 
 travellers, as we found to our comfort day by day ; and it is difficult to conceive 
 a more grateful relief to the weary voyager, parched with the heat and scorching 
 sandstorms of the plains, than to come suddenly upon one of these sylvan 
 valleys, and find himself seated under the shade of a large mulberry tree, and 
 ministered to by a Yarkundee Mihmandar witii a plentiful supply of melons^ 
 grapes, nectarines, and peaches. 
 
 78. The houses in these villages resemble the mud huts to be seen iu any 
 village in Upper India. The walls are built of sun-dried bricks with flat roofs. 
 The gardens are generally surrounded with mud walls, or fenced in by stout 
 hedges, which are also frequently put round the cornfields. As we passed along 
 we found maize, w heat, barley, millet, turnips, carrots, and French beans, all 
 ripening at the same time. There is but one harvest season in the year, and 
 all the crops are dependent on irrigation. The willow and poplar trees grow to 
 a large size on the banks of canals, 
 
 79. The costume of the villagers is extremely simple, consisting generally 
 of a neatly-worked skull cap, or perhaps a white cap trimmed with sheepskin 
 on the head, a long white choga or robe, which justifies the remark made by 
 Vambery, that Central Asiatics appear to be always going about in their night 
 clothes. Sometimes this white robe is fastened at the waist by a string or rope, 
 giving a monkish appearance to the wearer. Long felt stockings, and top-boots 
 of untanned brown leather complete their attire. In winter warmer clothes 
 and more gaudy colours are adopted, but at the season when we entered Yarkund 
 all the population seemed to have just got out of bed. 
 
 80. The more well-to-do classes, the Kazees, MooUahs, and all Government 
 servants, wear chogas or cloaks of variegated, colour, and of superior material, 
 either of eilk or cloth, or more generally, of mushroo, a mixture of silk and 
 cotton dyed with bright colours intermingled, after the pattern of marble-stained 
 papers on our walls at home. The women are dressed in a kind of white night- 
 gown, with a high round cap, which looks at a distance like a white Chin?i 
 bowl. Their hair gathered into two large plaits, to increase and add beauty to 
 which Yarkundee ladies are not behind European fasliions, falls down the back. 
 No sign of ornament is to be seen on man or woman, and the only weapott. 
 carried is a knife hanging from the girdle, and is made to serve for every purpose. 
 
 6-0. . B4 81- The 
 
i6 CORRESPONDENCE RELATING TO 
 
 81. The language spoken by these villagers is Toorkee, and scarcely any of 
 the more educated agriculturists know Persian. Fortunately for us, several 
 memhers of our party, especially Mr. Shaw, knew this language, so that we had 
 free communication with the people, and were not under the necessity of ^^^}^."S' 
 in an interpreter. All the higher Government officers spoke Persian, in which 
 language I carried on all my conversations. 
 
 82. One misses with satisfaction in Yarkund the high humped cattle of 
 India, instead of which, cows and bullocks, more resembling the English type, 
 are to be seen. But the cattle are not so large or fine looking as the superior 
 kind to be seen in India. Bullocks are used not only as beasts of burden, but 
 also as riding animals, and are taught the ' yulga ' or amblinjj pace. The sheep 
 are of good size, and have the broad fat fail considered in Central Asia such 
 a luxury. Amongst other uses to which this tail is turned, the fat of it is- 
 converted into tallow candles. Fowls in Yarkund differ little from fowls else- 
 where, except that like their owners, they seem to teed better than their bre- 
 thren in India, and consequently make a more palatable dish on the table. 
 
 83. Being anxious to introduce to the Yarkundees the advantage of European- 
 medical science, Dr. Henderson persuaded the Kazee of Gumah, who visited 
 our camp at Kostak, to submit to treatment for goitre, which afflicts the people, 
 I might almost say universally. The example set by this man was followed by 
 a few others, but our hopes of extending this medical practice were soon after 
 checked. Fevers and dysenteric or choleraic diseases vrere pronounced to be 
 unknown. Smallpox, however, was declared to be a scourge, and produced 
 the utmost alarm in the minds of some Bhot porters, whom we had brought 
 with us. 
 
 84. No vaccine matter having been brought they could not be vaccinated, 
 but one of their numher proposed that the body of a Bhot, who had died a 
 short time before and was buried in a village near, should be exhumed and 
 Vaccine matter should be taken from the corpse ! 
 
 85. At Boora we entered the jurisdiction of the Dadkhwah, and found our- 
 selves treated even more hospitably than before. The heat now was excessive, 
 the thermometer inside our tents under shade being near 90° during the day 
 and 65° at night. From Boora we took our fourth and last march across the 
 desert, starting at 2 a.m. to escape the great heat of the day. At daybreak our 
 devout companions dismounted like good Mahomedans to say their prayers, 
 when their horses took the opportunity of scampering off over the plain, some 
 of them refusing to be caught till we reached Besharik, 20 miles off. I had 
 heard much before I entered Yarkund of the severe ritualism enforced by the 
 Atalik, but with this single exception I saw nothing of it. 
 
 86. Besharik is another of the oases skirting the desert. Here we halted 
 for the inevitable dusteikhan of fruit and soup, brought by the Begi of 
 Karghalik, a large village five miles further on. As we crossed the last strip 
 of stony desert we saw in front a long low white building inclosed on all 
 sides by fine poplar trees. This on nearer approach proved to be an old 
 Chinese fort which since the expulsion of that people had been allowed to fall 
 to ruin. It is built of sun-dried bricks with parapets loopholed for musketry, 
 and with square bastions at each corner. It had all the appearance of a dilapi- 
 dated Punjab jail. Soon after passing this, we entered Karghahk, and rode 
 through the main street. This is about 15 feet wide, and in many parts covered 
 over. On the roofs of the houses, overhanging the street, small gardens of 
 flowers, China aster, balsam, &c., were to be seen. We passed bakers', butchers', 
 shops, now and then finding a small tobacconist and greengrocer's stall. AU 
 the other shops were closed, and the inhabitants evidently had made holiday to 
 see the first importation of European officials into their country. On our left, 
 half-way through the town, we saw the entrance to a college, and a little further 
 on a school. At the end of the street we came to the gallows, fitted up with 
 pulleys to accommodate two criminals at once. The punishment of hano-ing i& 
 reserved for thieves, whilst political offenders are entitled to the honour of having: 
 their throats cut. ° 
 
 87. Leaving: 
 
MR. FORSYTH'S MISSION TO YARKAND. 17 
 
 87. Leaving the gallows we turned sharp to the right up a lane shaded by 
 willow and poplar trees, and were brought into a garden where everything had 
 been prepared for our reception. A large earthen platform raised under some 
 magnificent walnut trees was covered with felt rugs and Khoten carpets, and at 
 one end three chairs were placed in front of a long table covered with a kind of 
 Persian carpet. These chairs were a curious specimen of Yarkundee carpentry, 
 and the first that hau ever been made in the country. Of course the usual 
 dusterkhan was laid out, and all the population of Karghalik collected to see how 
 Europeans ate and drank. 
 
 88. From Karghalik to Yarkund, a distance of 35 miles, we passed through 
 an entirely diflFerent kind of country. Instead of the dreary desert and sandy 
 hills over which we had travelled for the last four days, we found ourselves in 
 the midst of luxuriant cultivation and rode along well-made roads lined with fine 
 shady trees. 
 
 89. The rich verdure of the meadows and the thick vegetation on the slopes, 
 with here and there well- wooded copses, and the constant streams of water, now 
 running freely in meandering brooks, and now restrained in carefully preserved 
 canals, imparted a civilised and English look which reminded one of scen,es at 
 home. Farmsteads, too, scattered in pleasing irregularity over the plain, with 
 cattle, commending themselves to English eyes by the absence of the Indian 
 hump, flocks of fine sheep with thick white fleece, and well-fattened poultry, 
 added greatly to the scene. 
 
 90. The road from Karghalik is a continuation of the highway from Khoten 
 to Yarkund, along which mile posts, or more correctly posts at each t^sh, or 
 fifth mile, are erected, with the distance written legibly in Persian. The canals 
 and streams are well bridged with wooden beams and planks, and on the low 
 marshy ground some engineering skill has been displayed in raising the road. 
 In all directions the signs of a progressive vigorous government are observable, 
 in the construction of new canals, and in the care bestowed on the roads. If 
 we might judge from this portion of the country, or in fact from any of the 
 inhabited parts which we saw, the impression I received was that the Yarkund 
 territory is to a very great degree flourishing. The houses, though built of mud 
 or of sun-dried bricks, look fresh and tidy, and the mosques and serais, or places 
 of public resort, are kept clean and in good prder. The dry-earth system of 
 conservancy is carried out in the houses of the upper classes. Rows of poplars, 
 and willows are planted by the side of watercourses and along all lanes, and the 
 surface of the country presented a variegated mass of green or yellow colour, 
 according as the crops were fresh springing up or just ripening to the harvest. 
 The coiton plant was to be seen in abundauce. The plant is small, but the bolls 
 are plentiful, and the staple is longer than that found in Northern India, Flax 
 too is grown for the oil : the plant is too small for using the fibre. Wheat cf the 
 finest quality is produced, and Yarkund is justly famous for its beautiful white 
 bread. Barley, rice, maize, millet, and vegetables are to be seen. But we 
 noticed that the cereal crops were excessively dirty ; weeding seems to be quite 
 unknown, and rank vegetation too often chokes the more valuable crop, 
 
 91. Leaving Karghalik some hours before daylight, we rode at a quick pace 
 till we reached the river Tisnaf, whose waters were sufficiently low to enable us 
 to ford it. From thence a ride of five miles brought us to the village of Ek 
 Shumba Bazaar, where, as its name imports, a market is held once a week ; and 
 as we happened to arrive on the proper day, we witnessed the novel sight of a 
 Yarkundee market. We were met about a mile outside the town by the village 
 elders, who insisted on our partaking of their hospitality, so we had to go 
 through all the courses from melons to soup at the early hour of 7 a.m. As we 
 continued our march towards Pushgam, our halting place for the day, we met 
 on the road the countrymen and women flocking to market. Donkeys weighed 
 down with pannier loads of melons, fowls, sheep driven by rosy-faced but rather 
 dirty boys passed in succession. Then some country cobbler offered as he passed 
 us boots for sale, and immediately, a pantomime scene was got up between one 
 of- our Hlndostani followers and the cobbler, who held up three fingers to ex- 
 press that the price was three, something which the foreigner could not under- 
 stand, and the bargain was oft'. Then came a man mounted on a neat-looking 
 pony, driving before him haif-a-dozen other ponies, which he intended to sell ; 
 
 60. C then 
 
i8 CORRESPONDENCE RELATING TO 
 
 then two or three donkey loads of leather, of foreign importation. Presently a 
 party of fanner-looking men came jogging along, chatting together pleasantly 
 till they approached our party, when one and all dismounted quickly, and bent 
 in respectful salutation till our party passed. Their salute and this act of 
 respect in dismounting, so common in the East towards superiors, was evidently 
 intended for our Mihmandar Tashkhoja, though on our return journey, as will 
 be seen, it was offered freely to us. More cosmopolitan, or it may be with a 
 keener eye to their own profit, was the hearty salutation we received from three 
 high-capped religious mendicants, who fell on their knees, and stroking their 
 beards, shouted out their " Huk Allah," &c., and looked wistfully for a return 
 in the shape of a shower of coppers. According to custom, or as. we saw in 
 reluctant obedience to the orders of their husbands, all the women at the sight 
 of our party turned out of the road to escape observation, but having satisfied 
 the wishes of their masters, they usually took care to satisfy their curiosity also 
 by having a sly look at the strange passers-by. In watching this curious and 
 interesting procession, we beguiled the time till we reached Pushgam, the last 
 usual halting place to Yarkund. 
 
 92. Here we were housed in rooms set apart for us in the travellers' resting 
 place, a large court-yard, on three sides of which were little rooms. In the 
 garden adjoining vines trellissed on frames were laden with bunches of long 
 white grapes of delicious flavour. In the evening a messenger or Mahrambashee 
 arrived from the Dadkhwah, with a present of dresses, and a request that we 
 would honour him by wearing the Yarkundee costume as we entered the town. 
 These garments consisted of a suit of under clothes of plain chintz, over which 
 a gown of fine China silk was to i)e worn. Broad trousers of silk padded with 
 cotton were added, and a pair of long black leather boots. Over all, a large 
 choga or cloak with sleeves of Kokund silk, very gorgeous in colour, was to be 
 thrown. The question of wearing Mahomedan costume had been debated 
 amongst us, the argument against abandoning our national garb being very 
 strong, but fortunately it had been decided for us by the Yarkundee tailor, who 
 had made the clothes without taking' our measure ; so we compromised the 
 matter by merely wearing the choga. 
 
 93. Next morning, finding the river at the point where the high road crosses 
 it too deep to be forded, we followed its right bank till we reached Yungi 
 Bazaar, and there halted for the day, so as to send part of our baggage across 
 the stream in a boat, we following the next day. Yungi Bazaar is an instance 
 of the progressive character of the present rule. A few years ago the country 
 round was a swampy wilderness. But last year the Dadkhwah cut a canal 
 through the tract, and draining the swamp, brought the whole under cultivation, 
 Agriculturists were induced to settle by liberal grants of land, and a large 
 bazaar was built in which weekly markets are now held. Thus peaceful industry 
 thrives in Yarkund. 
 
 94. On Tuesday, the 23rd August, we made our entry into the city of 
 Yarkund. Leaving Yungi Bazaar at 6 a.m., we rode for about a mile to the 
 bank of the Yarkund River, which at that time of the year was about the size of 
 the River Ravee with a more rapid stream. Three boats of rude construction, 
 like long punts, plied at the ferry. They were large enough to take 15 horses 
 with their loads at a time, but the passage was much delayed by the want of 
 skill on the part of the boatmen, who frequently missed the proper current and 
 were swept far down the river. We sat on the bank for some time till our turn 
 came, and occupied ourselves with reading English, newspapers just received. 
 This was the first post which had ever been sent from England to Yarkund, and 
 all things, distance and difficult roads, being considered, it is worthy of record 
 that in the heart of Yarkund, where not only no Englishman had ever entered 
 till Messrs. Shaw and Hay ward made their venturesome journey last year, but 
 the very idea of such a visit was pronounced to be madness, we in 1870 were 
 quietly seated on the river bank, surrounded by listening and understandino- 
 Yarkundees, whilst we read out and translated articles from the " Mail " and 
 "Saturday Review," which had been penned in London only two months 
 before. "^ 
 
 95. Having crossed the river, we were met by Munsoor Khoja, the Sirkar or 
 Supermtendent of Yarkund, with a small retinue followed by parties of citizens, 
 
 who 
 
MR. FORSYTH'S MISSION TO YARKAND. ig 
 
 who fell in and helped to swell the procession. In this way we continued to 
 increase our ranks, till, as wc approached the city, our numbers presented the 
 appearance of a respectable body of cavalry. 
 
 96. For about five miles our road lay along the marshes of the ri^er and 
 richly- clothed meadows. Suddenly, as we rounded a point in the road, we saw 
 before us the object of our weary four months' journey, A long white line, 
 here and there partially hid by tall trees, showed us the walls of the city of 
 Yarkund. 
 
 97. As we drew near we found the sides of the road lined with eager spectators, 
 and our entrance to the gates of the town was through a thick row of men. A 
 few rose up to salute the Mirza and oflScials who rode on ahead, but the majority 
 sat down in proper Yarkund fashion and eyed with evident curiosity the features 
 and appearance of the first European officials who had ever entered their city. 
 Cashmerees, Chinese, Kalmaks, Tajiks, and Hindostanees were discernible by 
 their distinctive features in the citizen throng, and more than once we exclaimed 
 to each other, " Suiely this or that man must he a European," from the fair 
 Aryan features which the owner had. 
 
 98. Passing through spacious melon gardens, which reached quite close to the 
 very foot of the low white mud walls of the town, we reached the western gate of 
 the city. From the crenellated battlements women, neither fair nor young, 
 looked down upon the gay passing scene, but no nearer were any females allowed 
 by custom to approach the crowd of men. Crossing by a wooden bridge over a 
 very narrow ditch, we entered the gateway, nominally guarded by a dozen or two 
 of villagers, who in the absence of the regular army, which had gone forth to 
 fight under the Atalik Ghazee, did duty as soldiers with a collection of sticks, 
 pikes, and old axes, which might have been taken from some Chinese museum, 
 and made them look for all the world like the rows of janissaries one sees in the 
 museum at Staraboul. We rode through a portion of the chief bazaar, which 
 difiers little in appearance from other bazaars, whether in India, Cairo, or Con- 
 stantinople, except that here no minarets or lofty buildings are to be found to 
 give an imposing effect to the scene, or to break the low level line of single- 
 storied houses. The passage through the street was too rapid, and the crowd 
 was too great to permit our examining the bazaar minutely. After llireading 
 bye-streeis and passing sundry colleges or large schools, we emerged from the 
 city, end at a distance of 500 yards came lo the gate of the Yungi Shahr, or new 
 city as it is called, which was built by the Chinese to overawe tlie larger city 
 close by. The passage between the tv/o towns was marked by ruins of houses 
 formerly devoted to the pursuit of unlawful pleasure, and destroyed with their 
 inmates by order of the Atalik Ghazee. On a small eminence on our left, a 
 human head fixed on the top of a long pole told its own tale of the character of 
 the present rule. 
 
 99. To our right the wall of the Yungi Shahr extended till it joined a bastion, 
 the scene of a bloody struggle between the Kokund troops, under the Atalik 
 Ghazee and the Chinese garrison, the commander of which, finding all hope of 
 further defence in vain, sprang a mine and blew himself and followers into the 
 air. This Yungi Shahr is now kept as the cantonment of the dominant Kokun- 
 dee army, and is the abode of the Dadkhwah and chief officers. As we entered 
 the gateway, we were saluted by a guard a little more military in appearance 
 than that we had seen in Yarkund proper, but still very far from having the 
 warlike look which should belong to a body of men who in a few years have 
 conquered a country twice the size of Great Britain. Some of them wore red 
 chogas, fastened at the waist by a leather belt from which hung pouches, a 
 bullet mould, a knife, &c. They wore swords, and a few had pistols, but this 
 latter weapon, I found, was not much prized by these soldiers. On showing 
 my own revolver to Mirza Shadee one day, and asking him if he had brought 
 many with him from Calcutta, he replied, " No, I don't care for these weapons. 
 When fighting comes to such close quarters as that, it is time to give up !" 
 
 100. The matchlocks used by these soldiers have very thick barrels with 
 small four-groved bore, the bullets for which are cast in neatly cut slate moulds. 
 Each gun has a two-pronged rest, which, when the gun is slung over the shoulder, 
 gives it the appearance of having a double bayonet. 
 
 6o. c 2 101. Passing 
 
20 CORRESPONDENCE RELATING TO 
 
 101. Passing by this guard and penetrating the streets of the town for about 
 200 yards, we arrived at the residence set apart for us. Entering a narrow 
 passage, we passed through a gateway on the right of which was a courtyard, on 
 all sides of which were small rooms. This court was intended for our followers; 
 on the ot)posite side was a yard, leading to a stable, fitted up with rocks and 
 posts for tying up the horses, and other arrangements, betokening a care for 
 horses which would not be surpass^ed even in an English stable. This if quite 
 in keeping with tlie Yarkund, or rather the Turkee custom everywhere. De- 
 pendent as these people are on their horses for locomotion, these animals receive 
 from them as much care and attention as any member of their family would 
 have. 
 
 102. Passing by this stable-yard we came to a small garden, in the centre of 
 which was a tank filled with water from one of tlie numerous canals, and lined 
 with young poplar trees. On the left were rooms newly built, and well carpeted 
 with woollen carptts and felt rugs, and on the right a door let us into a small 
 court, where we found a suite of three rooms which had been built expressly 
 for our use. In the centre of this building was an open kind of hall, in which 
 queer fashioned but richly covered chairs and painted tables told of a successful 
 attempt to introduce English habits into Yarkund. A hioh wall surrounded 
 the whole courtyard, and the only view we could obtain was of the battlements, 
 from the top of which a sentry pacing up and down could command a view of our 
 movements. 
 
 103. The usual dusterkhan of fruits, food, &c., was brought, and then we 
 were left to rest ourselves after our long journey. 
 
 104. Mr. Shaw had found on his first visit to this country that it was con- 
 sidered correct for the visitor to hasten to present himself before the authorities, 
 and this custom quite accorded with our views, for we were desirous to lose no 
 time in seeing the Dadkhwah and Arrange for our return journey, unless indeed 
 we cculd be assured that the Atahk's speedy return justified our departing from 
 the instruction I had received. When, however, we proposed to pay our respects 
 to the Dadkhwah, various excuses were made, and I learned that it was the 
 wish and intention ol the authorities to do all in their power to induce us to 
 remain till the pleasure of the Atalik regarding our disposal should be known. 
 Amongst these Asiatic nations, an ambassador, when once he arrives in the 
 country to which he is accredited, becomes the guest of the ruler of that country, 
 and is supposed to submit himself completely to that ruler's wishes. The idea of 
 an ambassador exercising any volition of his own regarding his movements or 
 his departure is one which they cannot comprehend. When, therefore, I found 
 myself compelled, in the circumstances stated, to return to India at once, I 
 perceived that my doing so might give great offence, and that I could only get 
 away by assuming a very firm demeanour, at the same time giving no handle for 
 just ofience, which might be turned into an excuse for detaining us. 
 
 105. On the morning after our arrival, hearing that Ibrahim Khan, whom I 
 had sent through Yasseen and over the Pamir Steppes to Yarkund, had arrived, 
 and was kept in confinement by the Dadkhwah. I sent a message requesting 
 that he might be sent to mp. In a short time Miiza Shades brought Ibrahim 
 Khan, and apologised for his having been kept in confinement. I had instructed 
 Ibrahim Khan to maintain his concealed character only until he reached the 
 confines of the Atalik's territory, and then at once to make himself known. 
 This he did, and thus any suspicion which his appearance by another route 
 might have caused was dispelled. Ibrahim Khan's account of a very interesting 
 journey over a line of country almost entirely unknown, except, I believe, 
 through the writings of Fa Hian, a traveller of the fourth century, of which I. 
 pretend to no knowledge, but regarding which we may hope to be enlightened 
 by our greatest living Oriental authority. Sir H. Rawlinson, will be given here- 
 after. 
 
 106. Our first interview with the Dadkhwah took place on the afternoon of 
 the 24th August. At the hour appointed, Mirza Shadee came to escort us to 
 the palace. According to the agreement made with him at Leh, we all three 
 wore our proper costume, and not Yarkundee garments. He asked us to walk 
 to the palace, which was only about 300 yards distant. But knowing that with 
 
 these 
 
MR. FORSYTH'S MISSION TO YARKAND. 21 
 
 these people to go on foot is a marked sign of degradation, Hindoos and all 
 " infidels " being prohibited from riding or wearing a turban in Yarkund, I 
 insisted on riding, and having selected suitable presents of guns, gunpowder, 
 English clocks, velvets, brocades, &c., we started otF in procession through a 
 crowded street, ana passed a small park of artillery, if a few old guns of curious 
 shape deserve to be dignified witii such a title, till we reached the palace. Dis- 
 mmniting at the gateway, we entered a large inclosurein which soldiers dressed 
 in red, yellow, and other gay colours, were seated on the ground in no regular 
 order, and quite at their ease. Then turning to the right we passed under a 
 second gateway, and entered a courtyard in which were larger empty halls. 
 From this we passed into an inner courtyard, at the entrance to which soldiers 
 armed with matchlocks were drawn up, At tlie further end, we ascended two 
 steps, and were ushered by aside door into a spacious hiill, at the threshold of 
 which we were met by a little man, plainly dressed in a white turban, and the 
 usual parti -coloured choga. This was the Dadkhwah Mahomed Yoonus, 
 Governor of Yarkund, and second in rank to the Atalik Ghazee. He, like his 
 master, is a native of Kokund, and, unlike him, has risen to distinction by the 
 use of his pen, rather than by the use of the sword, After the nsual salutations, 
 he led us to a doorway towards the end of the room, and seated us on cushioned 
 carpets. With the exception of Mirza Sliadee and my Moonshee Dewan 
 Buksh, no other person was allowed to enter the hall. The Dadkhwah com- 
 menced conversation by asking after our health, &c., and expressed his distress 
 at hearing of the fatigues and troubles we had undergone. The conversation 
 was altogether of a friendly and mutually complimentary character, for which 
 the Persian language is specially suited. On asking him what news he had of 
 the Atalik Ghazee, he merely replied with " Alhumdullila," "Praise be to God," 
 which was a signal for us to offer our congratulations on the victories he had 
 gained. Shortly afterwards, at a sign given by the Dalkhwah, 16 mahrum 
 bashees or pages entered the room, bearing trays of fruit, sweetmeats, &c., and, 
 as a matter of course, the teapot made its appearance. I then displayed my 
 presents, and the ceremony ended by robes of honour being thrown across the 
 shoulders of each of us, after which we went back to our quarters. 
 
 107. The next day or two was spent by us in anxious deliberation what 
 course we should pursue for it was very evident tliat nothing was fun her from 
 the Dadkhwah's wish than that we should leave the country without seeing the 
 Atalik. In fact he was bound to obey the orders of his master, and disobedience 
 of the Atalik's orders might lead to the forfeiture of his life. We were given 
 therefore to understand that until the Atalik sent orders for our disposal, he 
 could do nothing. At first the mode in which this endeavour to detain us was 
 made, was such as would probably be adopted by all Oriental despots. The 
 Dadkhwah ridiculed the idea of our going away, and some of his actions were 
 doubtless intended to intimidate us into acquiescence. Finding this fail, he 
 had recourse to earnest and incessant supplication, sending deputation after 
 deputation, with letters and presents to coax us into remaining. At this junc- 
 ture we had recourse to the good offices of Kazee Mahomed Yakoob, who 
 having left us near Sanju, as 1 liave already mentioned, had come to Yarkund 
 and taken up his abode near the Dadkhwah's palace. Visits and friendly 
 messages and presents had been interchanged between us, and I observed that 
 the Dadkhwah paid the utmost outward respect to this nephew of the Atalik. 
 The Kazee has shown in his frequent conver sations with us a degree of liberality 
 and enlightenment which was the result of his long residence at Constantinople, 
 and his contact with European civilisation. He could understand what was 
 palpably beyond the comprehension of a man like the Dadkhwah, wholly un- 
 acquainted with an}' but his own despotic customs, the importance of offering 
 n6 hindrance to the execution by me of the orders given by my own Goverment, 
 and in this light I addressed mjself to the Kazee, and found that I had not 
 made a mistake. He at once told the truth that the Atalik was engaged upon 
 a campaign which would probably last for a long time, and it would be in vain 
 for us to expect to see him for some time. He expatiated on the frequent vic- 
 tories of his uncle, and gave the reins to his imagination by describing the 
 slaughter in one battle as so great that it took a man two days and a night to 
 walk over the dead bodies of the enemy. This tone of exaggeration regarding 
 the prowess of the Atalik is adopted with favour by his followers, and Mirza 
 
 (io. c 3 Shadee 
 
22 CORRESPONDENCE RELATING TO 
 
 Shadee one day gravely assured us that the Atalik's strength was so great that 
 one day, being anj^ry with one of his courtiers, he gave him a box on the ear, 
 and the force of the blow was such that the man made six soramersaults and 
 then fell dead. 
 
 108. The Kazee then told me that the Dadkhwah wished by every means 
 in his power short of violence or ill-treatment to induce us to remain till the 
 orders of the king arrived, when we should either be asked to go to his camp 
 at Turfan, a distance of some 300 miles, or should be kept at Yarkund or Kash- 
 gar till the king returned from his campaign. The opportunity thus held out 
 of being the first Europeans who had ever visited the countries north of Yar- 
 kund, and of opening out a tract so little known to geographers, was indeed most 
 tempting, but my orders were peremptory and must be obeyed, and this the 
 Kazee fully understood and helped me to carry out, thus affording a pleasant 
 contrast to Mirza Shadee, who, for some reason or other, had quite changed his 
 demeanour from the moment of our entering Yarkund territory, one possible 
 solution of which may be that Mirza Shadee, being ambitious and vain-glorious,, 
 had built sundry cabtles in the air for his own advancement, in consequence of 
 his success in bringing an embassy from a great European power to his master. 
 When, therefore, he found us determined to carry out our orders, and to return 
 to India without seeing the Atalik, his hopes were at once dashed to the ground, 
 and this caused him to give vent to ill-humour, which a more astute politician 
 would have concealed. 
 
 109. Previous to leaving Ladakh or Yarkuud I stipulated, as I have stated, 
 with Mirza Shadee that we should be left completely unfettered in our move- 
 ments in Yarkund, and that no confinement of our person should be attempted. 
 This stipulation I strictly enforced, and we were enabled to see something of the 
 surrounding country. 
 
 110. A quiet ride on a summer afternoon in the suburbs of Yarkund was a 
 novel sensation and full of interest. Leaving the gate of the Yungi Shahr, we 
 passed through gardens of melons and vegetables, in which small arbours, truly 
 answering to the lodge in a garden of cucumbers, gave shelter to the owners 
 from the heat of the sun. During the whole time of our visit to Yarkund, we 
 found the air filled with a dusty mist, which somewhat veiled the rays of the 
 sun; but the temperature in daytime was warm, considering the elevation of 
 Yarkund, 4,000 feet above the level of the sea. Passing these gardens which 
 encircle the city, we rode along a broad well-defined road, on each side of which 
 fields of millet and wheat were ripening for the harvest. Our Hindostanee 
 followers were astonished to see the spring and autumn crops of their own 
 country growing here side by side and ripening at the same time. Canals of 
 water crossed our path perpetually. Along this road, which led to the north, 
 one might see every day couriers hastening with despatches to or from the 
 Atalik's camp. These men have to ride right through the journey, changing 
 their horses at each stage of 15 or 20 miles. They travel at a steady yulga or 
 amble of six miles an hour, and seem to know no fatigue. Just before our 
 arrival a band of 100 captive Tunganis, old men, boys, and some women 
 amongst them, was brought from Turfan to be exhibited in larkund before their 
 final fate should be determined. I fear the chances of their escaping the scaffold 
 were but small. 
 
 111. On the -south, and in fact almost all round Yarkund, suburban villages 
 and detached houses with orchards and gardens, present a pleasing view The 
 traveller rides along pretty lanes well shaded with large poplar trees, or follows 
 the course of a canal or branch of the river, whose banks are covered with the 
 weepmg willow. Here and there wooden bridges of rude construction have to 
 be crossed. Everywhere there were signs of peaceful active industry, and the 
 peasants wonld look up from their work with pleased inquisitive eves at the 
 strange appearance we must have presented to them. The Yarkund fashion for 
 the higher classes of ladies is to leave their houses during the day and snend 
 some hours m the gardens outside the walls. The lower class of women occupy 
 their time in embroidery at which they are skilful hands, and wander about 
 with perfect freedom. Though it is said that women are not allowed to go 
 about unveiled m Yarkund, and a very thick leather strap was shown me as the 
 instrument used for enforcing obedience, I cannot say that I found the ladies of 
 
 Yarkund. 
 
MR. FORSYTH'S MISSION TO YARKAND. 23 
 
 Yarkund less curious than ladies tilsewhere, and ruddy faces, with eyebrows well 
 blackened by some dye to add to their beauty, peered at us from all sides as we 
 rode through the streets. 
 
 112. Owing to the tortuous conduct of Mirza Shadee some difiiculties arose 
 for a time, which however we got over. But I thought it advisable to avoid 
 the possibility of offence being taken where none whs intended to be given, so 
 that when the Dadkhwah sent subsequent invitations to us to visit the gardens 
 and other places of public resort, we excused ourselves and remained in our 
 quarters till the day came for our departure. 
 
 113. When the Dadkhwah, who was in a very difficult position as regards us 
 in the absence cif the Atalik, found that all hope of our remaining was at an 
 end, he with true Oriental politeness sent messenger after messenger to ascertain 
 our wants for the journey, and was almost offended because we would not 
 avail ourselves of his offers. Dresses for all our followers and fur cloaks for 
 ourselves were sent in abundance, and one morning two men came carrying 
 on a pole suspended between them 40 pairs of top boots, for the manufacture of 
 which Yarkund is famous. 
 
 114. One very necessary item for our journey, however, he apparently dared 
 not supply. Baggage animals had been promised to be given, and would 
 doubtless have been supplied had we left with the Atalik's permission, but in 
 the present circumstances he not only did not supply them, but begged me to 
 write a certificate that he had done nothing to facilitate my departure, and that 
 my departure was my own act. 
 
 115. This certificate I of course gave, and then by the aid of Tara Singh 
 proceeded to purchase and fit out about 70 ponies. Mirza Shadee at this 
 juncture behaved very ill, and would probably have prevented our getting away 
 at all, had it not been for the energy and fertility of resource of Tara Singh, 
 whose unsparing activity and good-tempered tact extricated us from what 
 appeared at one time a tormidable difficulty. 
 
 116. On the morning of the 5th Septeniber, which was the day fixed from 
 the first for our departure, having sent off all our baggage, we went to take 
 leave of the Dadkhwah. We were received much in the same manner as on 
 our former visit, and had a friendly talk when he gave the usual parting 
 presents, and we took our leave. We then bid a farewell visit to Kazee 
 Mahamad Yakoob, whom we thanked heartily for the good offices he had 
 exerted on our behalf, and then mounting our horses, and followed by a 
 Yarkundee escort, we rode out of Yarkund. It is not necessary to give a de- 
 tailed account of our journey homewards to Shadulla, as we traversed the same 
 ground as we took going. 
 
 117- But I must record the good treatment we received on our return. It 
 might have been supposed, and in fact I was at one time warned, that if we went 
 away without seeing the Atalik, we should find scant iionour shown us on the 
 road. The contrary was the fact, and nothing could exceed the civility of all 
 the officials we met. Each day special messengers arrived from the Dadkhwah 
 bringing a silver ornament or a present of horses, or som,e little token of 
 friendship, and a letter asking after our welfare, to which I replied by send- 
 ing some English articles in i-eturn. Nor must 1 forget to notice the behaviour 
 of the people. It had been said that the respect paid to us, as we neared and 
 entered the city of Yarkund, was due to the partial adoption by us of the 
 Mahoinedan costume. On leaving Yarkund, I determined to wear nothing but 
 our own clothes. I was strongly dissuaded from this, the argument used 
 being that, if the people saw us without the usual honorary garments, it would 
 be supposed that we left in disgrace, and we should therefore receive no respect. 
 But 1 felt that we ought not to filch, as it were, a false respect from the people, 
 given under the erroneous impression that it was offered to Mahomedans, and 
 that whether we met with honour or dishonour, we ought to receive it as 
 Englishmen. The result proved the correctness of these views, for it was im- 
 possible not to be struck with the very marked respect shown us by the villagers 
 and travellers whom we met on the road. Riders dismounted from their horses 
 as we passed, and, as a rule, the spectators bowed, crossed their arms, and 
 uttered the salutatory salaam akikum. 
 
 gQ c 4 118. From 
 
24 CORRESPONDENCE RELATING TO 
 
 118. From ShaduUa we took a new route back to Ladakh, following the line 
 indicated to U3 by Dr. Cayley, who, when he left our camp on the 2nd August, 
 made a tour of exploration to' see if a more favourable route than that over the 
 Linzi Thung Plains could be found, A reference to the map, which accompanies 
 the report, is necessary in order to understand these routes. Leaving the valley 
 df the Karakash a few miles above Shadulla, we followed the old or Karakorum 
 route over the Suget Pass, 18,237 feet high. The ascent is very gradual and 
 easy, except just at the summit, where fresh snow having fallen, the labour of 
 crossing the pass was somewhat severe. At a distance of 12 miles from this 
 pass on the south side, we reached an encamping ground known as Mullik Shah, 
 where no grass or sign of vegetation is found to mark the spot. From this 
 point, leaving the old road, we crossed the Dipsi Kol Plain, a large bare plateau 
 at an elevation of 17,000 feet. Here the cold began to be severe, the thermo- 
 meter not rising above freezing point during the day, and falling below zero at 
 night; the lowest point to which it fell on our return journey being 12 degrees 
 below zeio. Having crossed this Dipsi Kol Plain and surmounted an easy pass, 
 we entered a \alley leading us to the Upper Karakash river, along the bed of 
 which our course was taken for five days. When Dr, Cayley travelled over this 
 line two months previously, he found grass in more or less abundance at nearly 
 every stage. But by the time we passed over the same ground, this grass had 
 disappeared, partly having been grazed away, and in many places being hid 
 by the "snow which had fallen early in the season. Whatever was the cause, 
 the result was that for seven days our animals did not taste a blade of grass ; 
 but such is the hardy nature of the Yarkund ponies that none of them died 
 from exhaustion, though in the course of 24 hours we lost six ponies from 
 internal inflammation, caused by the mixture of dal pulse with the barley, of 
 which we had run short. 
 
 119. Leaving the Upper Karakash river, near its source, we crossed by a low 
 pass on to the head of the Linzi Thung plain, and thence making two marches, 
 for the most part of the time through stony and narrow ravines, we came to the 
 Chang Lung La range, crossing which we entered the Changchenmo valley, and 
 found ourselves once more in Cashmere territory. Dr. Cayley, whose exertions 
 to send us out supplies and assistance of all kinds, placed every member of this 
 expedition under deep obligations to him, came as far as Gogra to meet us. 
 From this point we traversed the same route by the Pangong lake, which we 
 had taken on the outward journey, and reached Leh on the 12th October, Here 
 the expedition was considered virtually at an end, and it was no longer necessary 
 for us to keep together. 1 came on ahead, with a light camp, by double marches 
 to Sreenuggur, and arrived at Murree on the 29th October, Mr. Shaw left the 
 eamp just before we crossed the Chang Lung La, to explore the head of the 
 Shyok stream, or of its tributaries. Dr. Henderson, whose valuable collection of 
 birds and plants had increased day by day, journeyed slowly down from Leh, in 
 order to loose no chance of adding to his contribution to Natural History. The 
 total estimated distance from Lahore to Yarkund is 1,000 miles, so that the ex- 
 pedition travelled 2,000 miles in six months, over the highest tract of country in 
 the world, and, I am glad to add, without losing a single follower, or having to 
 part with a load of baggage. Though some of our servants had never seen a 
 mountain before, not one failed in the long marches, or grumbled at the hardships 
 they had to undergo. 
 
 120. liavinggiven a narrative of our daily proceedings, I will now endeavour 
 to comply with the instructions conveyed in the Foreign Secretary's letter, which 
 I have quoted at the commencement of this report. 
 
 121. But it will be easily understood, from what has been already told, that 
 circumstances were very adverse to acquiring as much information as under 
 other conditions we might have gained. 
 
 122. The absence of the Atalik Ghazee from the seat of his government put 
 an end to all our projects at an early stage after entering Yarkund boundaries 
 and my attention was devoted to arranging for our speedy return, and could not 
 be diverted to seeking general information on topics of public interest which to 
 be of any value, must be gathered with care and deliberation, and be well sifted 
 ana weighed ; all this requires time and leisure ; whereas from the time of our 
 
 entering 
 
MR. FORSYTH'S MISSION TO YARKAND. 25 
 
 entering the Atalik's dominions, till we left them, only one month and 19 days 
 elapsed, of which more than a month was occupied in travelling, chiefly over 
 uninhabited tracts. 
 
 123. I purpose, at a later stage in this report, giving more fully all the 
 information I have gathered regarding the Atalik Ghazee, but I may remark 
 here, tliat his absence from Yarkund was by no means a matter of choice, but of 
 necessity. The disturbances which broke out in Aksu, Turtan, and Oorumtsi, 
 required to be quelled vigorously and promptly, and this could only be done by 
 himself in person. He therefore left his capital some time in March, and has 
 been busily engaged ever since. At the time of our reaching Yarkund, he was 
 distant from that city at least 500 and probably 700 miles, and the post carried, 
 by hard-riding horsemen, took from 13 to 15 days in transit. 
 
 124. Anxiously expecting our arrival, however, not only had he ordered a 
 completely new residence ibr us and our followers to be built, as I have 
 already described, but the Atalik had also evidently instructed the Dadkhwah 
 to use every endeavour to keep us in the country till he could return to- 
 meet us. 
 
 125. But though the desire of his Excellency the Viceroy, that I should 
 express in person to the Atalik Ghazee the friendly sentimeats of Her Majesty's 
 Indian Government towards him, could not be accomplished, still the second, 
 and what perhaps may be considered the main object of the visit was fortunately 
 independent of the presence of the Atalik, and I trust it may be found that, for 
 the promotion and facilitation of trade between India and Eastern Turkestan, 
 this expedition has not been without success. 
 
 126. The first point to which attention may be drawn is the road. Until a 
 few years ago all communication with Eastern Turkestan was carried over the 
 Karakorum range, by a most difficult and dangerous route, on which 30 per 
 cent, of the ba;igage animals invariably died. Other difficulties, caused by 
 Nomad robbers and plundering officials, were complained of and finally 
 removed, and this year the last political obstacle seemed to be overcome by the 
 abandonment, on the part of the Maharaja of Cashmere, of all transit duties 
 formerly levied on the Central Asian trade. 
 
 127. It only remained then for this expedition to proceed along the new line 
 of road to the Yarkund territory, and examine the route and see what further 
 facilities are required, and whether the trade is of sufficient importance to justify 
 the adoption of other measures, or the outlay of money. 
 
 128. The first thing which must strike any traveller over the new route 
 between Ladakh and Yarkund is the remarkably easy character of the road. 
 Though two very high passes have to be crossed, yet the ascent is so gradual 
 and easy that laden animals experience no difficulty whatever, except from the 
 rarity of the atmosphere. From Chang Lung La to the Karakash, a distance of 
 about 100 miles, there is a gradual descent, broken here and there by small 
 ridges and crests. 
 
 129. Looking at it then as a question of gradients, this route has not been 
 at all unduly praised. But there are great drawbacks to this praise; and 
 sundry difficulties, which have hitherto rendered the route unpopular, have to- 
 be overcome. 
 
 130. The great elevation at which travellers have to live for many days is a 
 most serious drawback, but it is common to all routes passing over the 
 Karakorum range. 
 
 131. The severe exertion and exhaustion which baggage animals have to 
 undergo is an important consideration. We found that the Ladakh ponies, even 
 when in good condition, were unequal to this work, and none but the hardy 
 animals from Central Asian steppes could survive. This is important, and helps 
 to strengthen an opinion which I have frequently expressed, that this trade is 
 much more to be sought by the inhabitants of Eastern Turkestan than by the 
 people of Hindostan. 
 
 132. Another drawback is the scarcity of grass and want of good water for 
 seven or eight marches. Grass, in small patches and of a coarse kind, is found 
 
 60. I> liere^ 
 
26 CORRESPONDENCE RELATING TO 
 
 here and there, and mi|;ht suffice for a caravan of moderate size ; but traders 
 travelling in large numbers would have to carry enough grain for t.ieir 
 animals, so as to be independent of these scanty grazing grounds. This, 
 however, the merchants are accustomed to do. The want of good water is 
 another serious drawback, but one which a little attention and labour will 
 speedily remove. 
 
 133. All that is required to render the new road popular appears to be to 
 construct places of refuge at each stage, with store pits or inclosures, and to dig 
 wells or make reservoirs for water, the prime cost of which would be the only 
 expenses necessary, and would not exceed a few hundred rupees. 
 
 134. For this road, especially in its present arid state, we found that camels 
 were admirably adapted. Fifteen of these animals, heavily laden with mer- 
 chandise, met us as we were entering Yarkund. As we crossed the Chang 
 La Pass on our return, and within a day's march of Leh,'we overtook these same 
 camels, carrying their full loads and looking just as stout and well as when we 
 first saw them. Their owner told us that not one camel had died or fallen 
 ill, and when heavy snow fell on the Linzi Thung, rendering the road somewhat 
 impracticable for horses, these camels went ahead and made a path through the 
 snow. 
 
 135. Two camels presented to me by the Dadkhwah accompanied my return. 
 In some parts of the Upper Karakash we had to traverse large ice- fields full of 
 awkward chasms, up and down which our ponies clambered with much diffi- 
 culty ; over these rough places, as well as through the stony ravines to which I 
 have already alluded, the camels travelled without any inconvenience. The 
 result of this experiment has been to convince the Yarkund merchants in 
 Leh, whom I saw, that camels are by far the best description of baggage 
 animals for this journey. These remarks apply, however, only to the double- 
 humped Bactrian camel, of which quantities are to be found in Eastern Turk- 
 estan. I know not how far the Indian camel would be suited to those high 
 regions. * 
 
 136. As Dr. Cayley, the commissioner specially appointed to superintend 
 the traffic on this frontier, has very carefully examined the various routes, I 
 will not discuss here their respective merits, but the remarks I have just made 
 will apply to any line taken over those great heights. 
 
 137. Mr. Hay ward suggested opening out a more direct route over the 
 Kogyar Pass into Yarkund, thus effecting a saving of some four or five days. 
 I had no opportunity of personally examining this line, but was given to 
 understand by several traders that the Kogyar Pass is easier than that 
 which we crossed to Sanju, and perhaps as trade increases, the Kashgar autho- 
 rities may see fit to open out that route. But this matter may be viewed 
 with patient indifference for the present. It is enough to know that by either 
 of the routes from the Changchenmo to ShaduUa, and thence by the Kilian, 
 or by the Sanju Pass, there are no physical difficulties to the passage of any 
 number of laden animals except over the last pass into Yarkund, for which 
 yaks alone can be used, and for this the Kirghiz and Wakhi tribes are only 
 too happy to increase their profit as carriers. There is at times difficulty in 
 crossing some of the rivers, as this report shows, but this is only experienced by 
 persons situated as we were and compelled to push on our way at all hazards. 
 The merchants travel more leisurely, and can afford to wait for the subsidence 
 of the waters. It is not with them, as the Roman poet tells us it was in his 
 
 country, that 
 
 Enisticus expectat dum defluat amnis, at ille 
 Labitur et labetur in omne volubilis oevum. 
 
 On the contrary, we found traders waiting patiently on the river bank, 
 whilst the "river, swollen by the melting snows on the mountain tops, gradually 
 decreased in volume and velocity, till in many instances they dried up 
 altogether. 
 
 138. A short r6suni6 of the growth of trade with Eastern Turkestan may be 
 appropriately given here. 
 
 139. In 
 
MR. FORSYTH'S MISSION TO YARKAND. 27 
 
 139. In 1863, when Mr. Davies submitted his report to Government, the total 
 amount of trade via Ladakli with Turkestan amounted to 23,604^.= 2,36,040 
 rupees. At that time the Chinese held possession of the country, and one 
 great article of trade was opium, which was smuggled into the towns, and its 
 export increased in spite of the Imperial prohibition of 1839. Goat skins dyed 
 red from Noorpore were sent to Leh, where they are manufactured into boots; 
 otter skins, piecegoods, cloths, spices, and drugs. Indigo and saffron formed 
 the staple of commerce. Small as the figures are, they fell in a year or two 
 to scarcely 1,00,000 rupfes= 10,000/., owing to the expulsion of the Chinese, 
 and the consequent cessation of the demand for opium. The extortions also of 
 the Maharaja's officials in Ladakh were so excessive that few traders ventured 
 by that route. But the attention of the British Government being directed to 
 this quarter, orders were given for the abohtion of all illegal exactions and the 
 stoppage of oppression by the Cashmere officials. A British officer was appointed 
 to reside each summer at Leh to watch and protect trade ; and the good effect 
 of these measures will be seen from the following figures : — 
 
 The trade with Turkestan was — 
 
 Rs. £. 
 
 In 1867 .'5,54,945 = 55,494 
 
 „ 1868 10,38,401 = 103,840 
 
 „ 1869 12,91,587 = 129,158 
 
 140. At the beginning of this year the Maharaja of Cashmere agreed bv 
 treaty to abolish all transit duty on goods passing between Turkestan and India, 
 and the British Government has also relinquished the duties on seaborne goods 
 intended for exports to Cashmeire or Turkestan, so that we may reasonably 
 expect to see the trade returns to show a further steady increase. 
 
 141. This year, on entering the Atalik's territories, we were greeted with 
 the intelligence that passes had been given to traders for the export of 2,300 
 horse-loads of merchandise. Assuming the value of the merchandise to be 
 about the same as in former years, this statement implies that the trade had 
 increased from one lakh, or 10,000 1, in 1866, to 13 lakhs, or 130,000 l. Another 
 encouraging feature was, that all the traders from Hindostan whom we met 
 on the road expressed satisfaction with the result of their commercial trans- 
 actions. These people generally in former years spoke doubtfully regarding 
 their gains, and rather paraded their losses. But this year one and all confessed 
 to having made considerable profit, and what was most satisfactory for us to 
 hear, they expressed much gratitude to the Dadkhwah of Yarkund for the very 
 liberal treatment they had received at his hands. 
 
 142. The truth is, that Kashgar, Yarkund, Khoten, and all the cities and 
 towns of Eastern Turkestan being thickly populated, and having scarcely any 
 manufactories of their own, are entirely dependent on foreign imports for 
 every thing except food. Cotton is grown to a small extent, but of a good 
 quality, and a few coarse kinds of cloth are made up. But this is a very 
 infinitesimal item of supply to meet the great demand there is for garments of 
 all kinds, and the inhabitants of that country look to the caravans which 
 yearly come from. Kokand or Budakshan, and latterly from India, to replenish 
 their markets. 
 
 143. The former trade with China is now entirely at a standstill, so that 
 tea, so essential to the existence of these Asiatics, can no longer be got from 
 that country direct. Green tea alone is used by them, and this finds its way 
 into the Turkestan market by various routes. Some goes from Bombay or 
 Calcutta through Afghanistan, Bokhara, and Kokand ; some takes the still more 
 circuitous route through Kiakhta and Siberia, and thence southwards from 
 Semipalatinsk, or even from Irbit to Yarkund, and then across the Terek Pass 
 to Kashgar. Some crosses the Himalayan Passes by the route which we 
 traversed. The Yarkundees pretended to be great connoisseurs in tea, and for 
 some reason or other it was the fashion to despise every other kind but the best 
 China green, though I observed with satisfaction that green tea grown in the 
 Kangra Valley, and passed into the country under the name of China tea, was 
 pronounced by the drinkers to possess a delicate flavour such as they delared no 
 Himalayan production could equal. 
 
 *" D 2 14.4 Just 
 
28 CORRESPONDENCE RELATING TO 
 
 144. Just at the time when we were in Yarkund the price of tea had fallen 
 considerably, owing to the large supplies which had lately been received. 
 Stocks which had been lying in the Oorumtsi store-houses had found their way 
 further west, and large quantities had been sent in from all sides. Brick tea 
 is not touched by any native of this country. But I was fold that a curious 
 kind was sold and much relished in Yarkund. This tea is dug out from the 
 remains of an old city, about seven days' journey east of Khoten, which many 
 years ago was overwhelmed and destroyed by the sands drifted from the great 
 desert of Gobi. 
 
 145. Sugar, in small white cones, and sugar-candy in wooden boxes, bearing 
 Russian characters outside, are imported from Orenberg through Yarkund. 
 Indian sugar when imported finds a ready and profitable market. Russian 
 bon-bons, with mottoes in that languHge, are to be seen frequently on a Yarkund 
 dusterkhan. 
 
 146., Chintzes of all kinds and colours, long cloth, broad cloths, furs, otter 
 skins, are of course in great demand. The profit to be derived from this branch 
 of the trade varies considerably in different years. This year the Russian 
 caravans not having penetrated so far as Kashgar, the supplies sent from India 
 fetched good prices. 
 
 147. Arms of all kinds and ammunition are eagerly sought, the preference 
 being given to English manufactures. Guns are, however, appropriated by the 
 State, private individuals not being allowed to buy these weapons without the 
 permission of the Dadkhwah. This oflacer told me that the percussion caps sup- 
 plied by Russia were of very inferior quality and constantly missed fire, whereas 
 the English caps were all good. On the arrival of the artificers whom Mirza 
 Shadee brought with him from Hindostan and Cashmere, the Dadkhwah set 
 them to make caps, and showed us a few which had been made, but he found to 
 his dismay that he could not manufacture the detonating powder. 
 
 148. The exports from Yarkund to India are confined to three or four items, 
 the most important of which this year, at all events, was thurrus, known to all 
 Englishmen as " Hashish." This intoxicating or rather exhilarating drug is ex- 
 tracted from a very fine quality of hemp which is grown on the borders of every 
 field in Yarkund, and when sent to Hindostan yields to the importer a profit 
 varying from 50 to 200 per cent. 
 
 149. Silk is cultivated in Gooma.and Khoten and exported to India. But the 
 process of winding the silk from the cocoons is clumsy, and the threads are not 
 sufficiently carefully separated, in consequence of which it has a coarse appear- 
 ance, which completely spoils its value in the Indian market. 
 
 150. Shawl wool of the very finest quality is brought from Oosh and Turfan, 
 and usually is exported to Cashmere. This year, however, owing to the war on 
 the frontier, trade with Aksu and Turfan has been interrupted, and little or no 
 wool came to Cashmere. In this item of trade, however, the cessation of the 
 supply has saved the merchants from heavy loss, for the outbreak of the war in 
 Europe has stopped the shawl looms in Cashmere, and consequently there is no 
 demand for the wool. 
 
 151. The remainder of the export trade from Yarkund is divided between 
 gold-dust, felt rugs, carpets, ponies, &c. I give in an appendix a list of prices 
 and cost of carriage. 
 
 152. Taking a general view of the trade question, I may say that Eastern 
 Turkestan has to come to us or other civilised countries for almost everything, 
 and, with the exception of a few staples such as I have enumerated, has nothing 
 to offer us in return. It is therefore for them to seek us, rather than for our 
 merchants to go there to seek them. Bearing this in view, our object has been 
 to remove all obstacles in the way of their intercourse with us, and to encourage 
 them to come over freely and frequently. With this object a fair was esta- 
 blished at Palumpore in the heart of the tea-growing district of Kangra, and has 
 answered its purpose well. In future, now that the Yarkund merchants have 
 found their way to our Indian m-arkets, and have seen, in the presence of 
 English officers amongst them, a proof of our earnest desire to promote com- 
 mercial and friendly intercourse with them, the necessity for securing their 
 
 — attendance 
 
MR. FORSYTH'S MISSION TO YARKA.ND. 29 
 
 attendance at the fair is no longer so urgent, though its continuance is on every 
 account most desirable. 
 
 153. For a full account of the country known as Eastern Turkestan, Chinese 
 Tartary, and, as it is called, Dzungaria, I woulrl refer to Williams' " Middle 
 Kingdom," and to the papers written by the late Mr. Wyllie and Mr. R, 
 Michell. But a very brief description of the country and review of its histoiy 
 may not be out of place here. 
 
 154. The whole tract of country between the parallels of 73° and 95° East 
 longitude and of 45° and 36° North latitude, which, having now become more or 
 less subject to the sway of Yakoob Beg, is loosely called Eastern Turkestan, 
 comprises three distinct districts, which in the days of the Chinese rule were 
 separate jurisdictions. 
 
 155. The first, which includes Khamil, and Oorumtsi, the Chinese Tihua- 
 chow almost its westernmost point, is merely, so far as its civil and military 
 establishments are concerned, the westernmost division of Kan-suh, the North- 
 Western Provinces of China Proper. 
 
 156. The second jurisdiction, of which I'li or Kulja, the Chinese Hwui-yuan 
 is the capital, is an enormous district extending west from the frontier of Kan- 
 suh nearly to the Lake Balkash, and bounded on the south by what are known 
 to the Mongols as the Tengiri Range, and to the Chinese as the Tien Shan, or 
 Celestial Mountains. This region is otherwise called the Pei Lu, " the road 
 north," that is north of these mountains. This tract was ruled by a military 
 governor of the highest rank, whose authority extended northerly over the outer 
 provinces of Tarbagatai, Kurun, Uliasutai, and Kobdo, and southerly to the 
 cities in the Nan Lu. The Nan Lu itself, i.e., road south of the Celestial 
 Mouutains, or what is more properly Eastern Turkestan or Kashgaria, is the 
 third division. This tract is the heart of ihe kingdom formed by Yakoob Beg 
 on the ruins of the Chinese power in these parts, aud may be more minutely 
 described. 
 
 157. Eastern Turkestan Proper lies between the Tien Shan Mountains and 
 the Kuen Luen and the northern watershed of the Karakorum Range. To the 
 west it is bounded by the Pamir steppes and the range known as the Belor 
 Tagh and Alai Mountains, and eastward the line is gradually shaded off into the 
 great desert of Gobi, 
 
 158. The whole area of this tract has been computed to be 80,000 square 
 miles, the greater part of which, however, is desert waste, the cultivated parts 
 being chiefly on the northern and western slopes, and along the course of the 
 various afiluents of the river Tarim. 
 
 159. Roughly calculated, the distance from east to west is about 400 miles, 
 and from north to south 750 miles.* 
 
 160. If the heights given by the Russian geographers are measured by the 
 same scale used by us, the mountains and passes on the north and west of 
 Kashgaria are for the most part very much lower than the Kuen Luen and 
 Karakorum ranges. 
 
 161. The elevations given are a^ follows: — 
 
 Peak of Tengri Khan 21,000 
 
 Ridge 17,000 
 
 Height in vicinity of Issyk Kul 15,000 
 
 Average heights in the Tien Shan range about lesyk Kul - 12,000 
 
 162. The principal passes in the Tien Shan Range by the Chatyr Keul 
 and Sonkul Lakes are from 10,000 to 11,500, one only, the Muzart Pass, being 
 16,000. 
 
 163. The passes on the road to Ladakh range from 11,000 Zoji-L4 in Cash- 
 mere; to 18,000 and 19,000 feet in and out of the Chang-chenmo Valley. 
 
 164. The 
 
 * Note — ^Williams makes the whole tract reach nearly 1,250 miles from east to west, and vary 
 from 300 to 500 miles in breadth. 
 
 Ho. D 3 
 
30 CORRESPONDENCE RELATING TO 
 
 164. The principal towns in Kashgaria are Kashgar the capital Yangi Hissar, 
 Yarkund, Kurghalib, Gooma, Ilclii, and six other towns which constitute 
 Khoten, Aksu, Bai, Sairam, Oosh, Turfaii, Karashahr, Kucha. 
 
 165. The rivers are the Kashgar, the Yarkund, Tisnaf, Sanju, Arpalak, and 
 Karakash, which unite to form the Tarim. It is said that this river flows into 
 the Lake Lob or Lok-nor, but the general opinion expressed by all whom i asked 
 was that it flowed into the great desert, and is lost there. 
 
 166. The distance of Kashgar from Kokund is said to be 400 miles. The 
 Russian outpost on the river Naryn is not more than eight days' journey, or 134 
 miles, from Kashgar. 
 
 167. I have been able to gather some information which may throw light on 
 sundry passages in the narrative of travels given by Marco Polo. After describ- 
 ing the city of Khoten, he speaks of the province named Peyn, which was said 
 to be of five days' journey in extent, in the direction of east- north-east, and 
 contained many cities and strong places, the principal one of which was called 
 Peyn. Further to the east-north-east, Marco Polo speaks of the province of 
 Charchan, which in former times was flourishing and productive, but had been 
 laid waste by the Tartars. Its chief city was caUed Charchan. Through this 
 province run several large streams in which are found chalcedonies and jaspers, 
 which are carried for sale to Cathay, and such is their abundance that they form 
 a considerable article of commerce. 
 
 168. Neither of these provinces is marked on our maps, and hitherto no 
 successful attempt has been made to identify the names of the towns or to fix 
 their position. The only effort to do this, as regards Peyn, seems to have been 
 made by D'Anville, who places it seven degrees of longitude from Khoten, 
 Peyn is also written Poim or Poin, and this small piece of information helped 
 me to identify the places, as ^ shall show. 
 
 Charchan is supposed to correspond with Schachan, and De Guignes speaks 
 of a district named Chen-Chen to the south of Hami and near Lake Lop. 
 
 169. I made many inquiries regarding these provinces, and for a long 
 time without success, till one day 1 met a very intelligent Tajik officer who 
 had formerly been a merchant, and only lately had come into the service of 
 the Atalik. This man had travelled backwards and forwards between Moscow 
 and the various towns of Central Asia for the last 15 years, and was, if I may 
 so call him, a living Central Asian gazetteer. I asked him about the mines of 
 gold and precious stones said to exist near Khoten, when he told me that 
 
 Ij^ these really came from a place called Charchand, which he said is a large town 
 at the foot of the range of mountains which run from the south of Khoten 
 to China. Charchand is 40 days' journey from Khoten, and the road skirts the 
 foot of the mountains the whole way, and traverses 12 streams of considerable 
 siz3, which unite to form one river that flows into Lake Lop. Charchand is 
 inhabited by Tartar Mahomedans. Manufactures are carried on there, and a 
 trade between it and China exists. The route to China from Khoten used to 
 pass by this town. Judging from the data given by my informant, I should say 
 Charchand might be placed somewhere about the 97th degree of east longitude, 
 and perhaps about 36th degree north latitude. It is evident from my inform- 
 ant's statement about the 12 rivers and the grassy slopes along which the road 
 passes, that the hijih range of tiie Kuen Luen, instead of ending, as some of our 
 geographers make it do, not far east of Khoten, extends the whole way till it 
 joins the mountain system of China. My Tajik friend spoke Persian with the 
 very broad accent peculiar to the dialect of Andijan, the letter a being made to 
 sound like o. He told me that these rivers flowed into the lowland, Paeen- 
 mulk, which he pronounced Pom-mulk, and this gave me a clue to identifying 
 Marco Polo's Peyn province. Colonel Gardiner, whom I met in Sreenuggur, 
 and whose extensive acquaintance with the countries of Central Asia, over 
 which he travelled nearly half a century ago, is well known, threw light on the 
 discussion which is carried on in geographers' circles regarding the Bolor 
 country, by saying the word " Bolor " is in truth bala, or high. My Tajik 
 friend pronounced \ik\k in his hroad dialect Bolor, and thus, I believe, the Bolor 
 tract and the Peyn Province of Marco Polo are really the Persian translation of 
 highland and lowland. 
 
 170. He 
 
MR. FORSYTH'S MISSION TO Yi\RKAND. 31 
 
 170. He said that in this Peyn or lowland province large cities formerly ex- 
 isted, which liave been overwhelmed and buried in the sand. Mr. Johnson 
 alludes to the same story in the report of his visit to Khoten ; and from several 
 sources we heard of the large town called Tukla Makan in the desert of the same 
 name, widch has been partially restored to light, possibly by excavation, but more 
 probably by the drifting sands having shifted their position. 
 
 171. Tales of the strange noises heard by persons venturing on the great 
 desert of Gobi, and of the spirits who infest the place and molest travellers 
 similar to tiiose told by Marco Polo nearly 600 years ago, were recounted' to us 
 by my informant. 
 
 172. No trace of the Nestorian Christians could be found, and any buildings 
 they erected have long since perished. Nor in the customs or habits of the 
 people is there any sign of a purer faith than that of Mahamed. 
 
 173. Concerning the position of Yarkund there has been much diversity of 
 opinion, Colonel Yule, in his " Cathay," giving no less than six different valuations 
 of the longitude, ranging between 76° 3'', fixed by the Chinese missionary sur- 
 veyors, to 77° 30 '. Mr. Shaw, who took careful observations all through our 
 journey, fixes the position of Yarkund at 7Q°- 
 
 174. Similarly, regarding the size and population of Yarkund, conflicting 
 accounts have been given. Atkinson says there are 14,000 houses, and perhaps 
 100,000 inhabitants. Michell says Yarkund has 32,000 houses. The town is 
 surrounded by a wall, eight fathoms in height, and 17 miles in circumference, 
 with four gates. 
 
 175. Williams says the stone walls are three miles in circumference, and the 
 population doubtless exceeds 200,000. Other writers, I believe, put the popu- 
 lation at 120,000. Mr. Davies says Yarkund contains a population probably 
 exceeding 50,000. It has five gates and a mud wall all round, on the top of 
 which a cart might be driven. It is loopholed, and has no ditch. 
 
 176. Huree Chund, a most intelligent observer, undertook, at my request, to 
 make a rough plan of the city, a copy of which is given in the Appendix. He 
 paced the outside of the walls, and found the circumference to be 9,100 paces. 
 This would give an area of httle more than a square mile. Inside the city, near 
 the wall, are gardens attached to the houses, and in the parts which we visited 
 we saw much space given up to courtyards, thick walls, &c., so that probably 
 the habitations, except in the main bazaars, are not very closely packed together. 
 Judging from similar towns in India, I should put the population ai; a more 
 moderate figure than those generally given. The bazaars are crowded duringj| 
 the day with villagers from the suburbs, who return to their houses at night. 
 These would, perhaps, give the appearance of a larger multitude. The Cash- 
 meeree Akskal gave the following distribution of the population : — 
 
 People from Badakshan ------ 2,000 
 
 Baltistan 2,000 
 
 Cashmere - - - . - 1,000 
 
 „ Andijan or Kokund - - . - 3,000 
 
 „ Tunganis - 500 
 
 Yarkundees 50,000 
 
 Of these Yarkundees about 5,000 are merchants, and as many more are menials 
 or beggars, and the rest either own land which they cultivate themselves, or till 
 the ground for others. 
 
 177. I should say from the foregoing data that 60,000 would be the outside 
 figure at which to put the population of Yarkund, and this calculation may 
 perhaps be some guide in enabling us to arrive at an idea of the whole popula- 
 tion of the country. The Russian authorities vary their estimate from 3,000,000 
 to 20,000,000, and even 30,000,000. Williams only gives the population of the 
 chief towns. Now the greater part of Eastern Turkestan is desert steppe, 
 cultivation and habitation existing only where rivers make their way. Accord- 
 ing to Mr. Michell there are about 70 towiis and large villages. Taking 
 Yarkund as the largest, at, say, 60,000, we should perhaps find that M. 
 Valikhanof has not been very far wrong in reducing the total figure to 580,000 
 
 souls. .„„ ^, 
 
 ^« D 4 . 178. The 
 
3-2 CORRESPONDENCE RELATING TO 
 
 178. The stoDe walls eight fathoms high, on the top of which a cart might 
 be driven, is not quite a correct description. There are no stones at all 
 in Yarkund ; all the houses are built of sun-dried bricks, which acquire a re- 
 markable degree of hardness ; the walls are of mud, and about 18 feet high, 
 with crenellated battlements. There are five gates to this town. The citadel 
 of Yungishahr is 700 paces distant from the town, and is built in the form of a 
 square, each side being l,OOO^aces long. There is only one gate leading to the 
 town of Yarkund. 
 
 17^. There are 120 Mohullas or wards in Yarkund, of which the Cashmeeree 
 quarter is said to be the largest. In each ward is a school where the Koran is 
 taught, and little else. The number of colleges has been given as 60, but 1 
 believe this to be a great exaggeration. My informant said there were only 
 three or four colleges where education of a superior kind was given. As we rode 
 through the street? we saw two of these colleges. The streets are wide enough 
 to admit of the passage of carts, and the bazaars resemble very much the streets 
 in Cairo, but the absence of second stories, except here and there a low upper 
 room being visible, gives a very unimposing character to the town. 
 
 180, The population of Eastern Turkestan, or Kashgaria, is Mahomedan, 
 and chiefly of the straitest orthodox or Sunni faith. The few Chinese who 
 escaped massacre had to cut off their pig-tails and become Mussulmans. Shia 
 Mahomedans are held in great disrepute. The population is said to consist 
 chiefly of Uzbeg Turks, and speak the Jagathai dialect of the Turki language. 
 Hindoo merchants are tolerated for the wealth they bring into the country, but 
 they are not allowed to ride or wear turbans. In the time of the Chinese rule 
 the Mahomedans fell into lax habits, and have only been restored to a strict 
 observance of the rites of their faith by the adoption of stern measures by the 
 Atalik.- Some of them, in talking to one of our party, secretly dwelt with fond 
 regret on the good old days when roast pork was indulged in by them, and 
 liquor was freely taken. Kazee Mahomed Yakoob, when speaking of the 
 i\talik's strict rule, acknowledged ^hat one advantage to be derived from travel- 
 ling was the relaxation from prejudices which resulted from contact with other 
 people, and he confessed that his uncle would be none the worse for adopting 
 more liberal ideas on the subject of ritualism. It appears that the Atalik aims 
 at framing his kingdom on the model ot Bokhara, the true support of Islamism ; 
 and in the arrangen)eut of his court, as well as in the maintenance of the true 
 faith, he adopts all customs which are popular in Bokhara. Imitating the same 
 model, he is now styled in all correspondence the " Badowlut," or the Pros- 
 perous One. 
 Il^ 181. I do not attempt, in this report, to give a full description of the manners 
 and customs of these people, because, in the first place, our stay was too short to 
 enable me to make those minute inquiries which alone would enable me to put 
 forth statements to be fully relied on. Moreover, Mr. Shaw, whose lengthened 
 residence in the country, and great aptitude for acquiring information, render his 
 writings of peculiar interest and value, has lately published an account of his 
 first visit to Yarkund and Kashgar, and has therein chronicled, in an abler 
 manner than 1 could pretend to, all the facts that he could glean ; and further, 
 the similarity between the people of Kashgaria and the Khanats being very great, 
 the general reader will derive all possible information from the lively pen of 
 Mons. Vambery, in his " Travels in Central Asia." 
 
 182. The history of Kashgaria goes back to the earliest ages,* when Cambyses 
 received as the dower of his bride, the daughter of Afrasiab, and mother of Cyrus, 
 the province of Khoten, and fixed his capital at Kung, which perhaps is a corrup- 
 tion of the word Yarkund. In the 14th century this province fell under the rule 
 of the Khojas, or saintly descendants of Mahomed, who came across the Alai 
 mountains frona Bokhara. For three centuries these Khojas held sway over the 
 country, but dissensions having lasted for some time, the weaker party, in an 
 evil moment, applied to China for aid, and in the year 1765 the whole country 
 passed under the Chinese yoke. The representatives of the Khoja dynasty then 
 fled to Kokhund, whence they made perpetual attempts to recover their king- 
 dom. 
 
 » See Malcolm's " History of Persia," vol. i., pp. 40 and 224. 
 
MR. FORSYTH'S MISSION TO YARKAND. 33 
 
 dom, the most formidable insurrection being headed Lj^ Jtehangir, in 1826, 
 when he was treacherously seized and sent to Pekin, and beheaded there. The 
 trouble and expense of quelling this insurrection was made an excuse for 
 upwards of 20 years after for levying an extraordinary taxation on the empire, 
 
 ^ 183. In 1864-65 the general disorder of the Chinese empire, caused by the 
 rising of the Tunganis, presented a favourable opportunity to the Khojas for 
 makmg another, and this time successful, attenijit to recover their kingdom. 
 But, as is well known, though Yakoob Beg was .sent from Kokhund to conquer 
 Kashgar and the surrounding country, under the standard of the Khoja chief, 
 Buzurg Khan, he merely made a show, and that only for a few years, of serving 
 him as master. Buzurg Khan was utterly unfit to assert his own rights, and had 
 rendered himself unpojjular l)y his vices, so that Yakoob Beg had nO ])olitical 
 party to fear when he determined to set him a*ide, and openly assume the 
 government in his own name. As an act of extraordinary clemency, Buzurg 
 Khan, instead of being put to death,' was sent across the mountnins to India, 
 with an order to make a pilgrimage to Mecca, and to remain there. I met him 
 at Leh, two years ago, on his journey, but afterwards heard that he had changed 
 his mind when he reached Intlia, and returned to Kokliund, by way of Cabul 
 and Bokhara. 
 
 184. Yakoob Beg having expelled or massacred all the Chinese, and having, 
 by an act of gross treachery, made himself master of Khoten, lost no time in 
 establishing a firm rule over the whole of Kashgaria, and during the few years he 
 has governed the country, has shown himsell' to he " profoundly politic, wonder- 
 fully clever, and of great strength of mind." Messrs. Hay vvard and Shaw, who 
 resided for six months at Yarkund and Kashgar, have described the vigour of his 
 administration, signs of which were very plain wherever we went through the 
 country. All tiie chief offices under him being kept in the hands of his fellow 
 countrymen, Yakoob Beg has nothing to fear from internal insurrection so long 
 as he is in power. According to his system of government, his lieutenants, such 
 as the Dadkhwah of Yarkund, the Begs of Khoten, AksA, &c., are responsible 
 for the administration of their respective provinces ; keep up their own armies, 
 and defray all expenses from the revenues collected, paying the surplus to the 
 Afalik of Kashgar. The power of life and death is reserved as a royal preroga- 
 tive. During his absence from the capital, Alum Knlee, or Beg Bucha as he is 
 called, assumes charge of that district, but the Atalik's first lieutenant is decidedly 
 the Dadkhwah Mahamad Yoonus. 
 
 185. What the revenues of the country are it is difficult to find out, owing to 
 the system just described, by which only the surplus, after all expenses are paid^ 
 is made known. In the days of Chinese rule, the customs at Yarkund were 
 stated to yield over 45,000 dollars annu;illy. The taxes were 35,400 sacks of 
 grain, 57,569 pieces of linen, 15,000 lbs. of copper, besides gold, silk, varnish. 
 and hemp. 
 
 186. On assuming the reins of government, Yakoob Beg abolished all taxes, 
 except those sanctioned by tlie Koran, l-40th of all produce being taken from 
 the cultivators, and in special cases, such as orchards, vegetable gardens, &c., 
 seven tungas=one rupee per tunab, a measure of land. In customs l-40th 
 is levied from all Mahomedans, and l-20th from everybody else. A strict 
 guard is kept on all tlie roads and city gates, so thai; smuggling is next to impos- 
 sible, and severe punishments are dealt to offenders ; but honest traders have 
 little' or nothing to fear in Eastern Turkestan. The Dadkhwah has shown 
 marked favour to those merchants who came from Hindostan, and dees his best 
 to encourage them. A pressing emergency arose this year for money, and the 
 Dadkhwah took loans from the chief merchants in his city. Soon after, when 
 the revenue collections were received, or when the monetary crisis had passed, 
 the Dadkhwah repaid these loans, thus displaying a promptitude in discharging 
 his obligations which even western nations might imitate. 
 
 187. When there was a demand for horses to be sent to the Atalik's army, the 
 citizens received fair prices for any animals taken from them. It has been said 
 that labour is always paid for, and that the villagers are treated with the same 
 iustice and liberality as I have described; but I am afraid, from the stones we 
 
 60. E heard. 
 
34 CORRESPONDENCE REE-ATING TO 
 
 heard, that this g«iocl policy does notjextcnd, just at the present time, beyond the 
 merchants. 
 
 188. A fpw words may now be said regarding the war in which the Atalik is 
 engaged against the Tungens or Tunganis. Who these Tunganis are has 
 provoked inJich discussion, some maintaining that the Tungen is a napie derived 
 from the Turk word " remnant" appUetl to the late rebellious subjects of China, 
 because they ^re supposed to b« descendants of the Turks who followed Alexanrjer 
 the Great on his eastward expeditions, and remained to settle in the countries 
 they conqueied. Others say that the word is derived from the Chinese tun-jen 
 or tun-yen, military colonists, and was given to these people because they were 
 sent to colonise the country in the western extremity of the empire and all the 
 la»d beyond the province of Kan-Suh. Whatever the derivation oi their name, 
 these Tungans were Maliomedans when tliey were ijrst removed to China by the 
 government, and though they have insensibly fallen into Chinese habits and 
 customs^ they to this day adhere to the laws of the Prophet, and observe strict 
 rules of life, abstaining from drink, opium, and even from tobacco. Forbidden 
 by the Chinese to fill high, offices of state, these Tunganis were enlisted as 
 soldiers, and, according to some authorities, were conspicuous for their bravery 
 and martial fpirit. 
 
 189. In 1862 the Tunganis had increased to 30,000,000 of people, spread ov«r 
 all the interior provinces of China, and in large numbers in Kan-Suli. 
 
 190. Tiie cause of the rebellion has never been explained, but the fact is that, 
 in 1862, 100,000 Tunganis broke out into insurrection in the provinces of 
 Shensi, Kan Sub, Se-chucn, and Yunnan. After considerable fighting the insur- 
 gents were expelled from Kan-Suh, and forced to retire to the western district of 
 Urumtsi (Oorumchee), wliich they took, and have ever since held. 
 
 191. In 1864 the Tunganis had possessed themselves of Aksu, and cutout 
 the Chinese garrisons of Turfan, Kucha, Karashahr, Khamil, and other towns. 
 They would have doubtless spread their power over the whole of Eastern Turkes- 
 tan, had not Yakoob Beg appeared on the scene, and possessed himself of Kashgeir. 
 He soon after took Asku, and drove the Tunganis out of the towns south of the 
 Tien Shan range, massacring Tunganis just as he had done Chinese. 
 
 192. The spirit of insurrection roused by these |)eople spread itself to the 
 farthest corner of the Chinese Empire, and infected the Kulmaks and Taranchi 
 inhabitants of Kuldja For the foJ lowing description of the Taranchis^ 1 am 
 indebted to Mr. R. Michell : — 
 
 % 193. In 1829, the rising of the Khojas in Kashgaria suggested to the Chinese 
 the projpriety of adopting ihe customary measure for providing against any 
 further insubordination by deporting a large body of Kashgarians to the neigh- 
 bourhood of Kuldja. From 8,000, to 12,000 people are said to have been thus 
 removed after the expulsion of the Khojas. The^e people were put upon the 
 soil, and were made to perform, under surveillance, servile duties for the Chinese 
 military colonists. Being njade slaves, and groaning under their many heavy 
 burdens, these wretched people obtained the name of Taranchis, or " people of 
 the- bloody sweat."* 
 
 194. The news of the rising of the Hoi-hoi-tsi, or Tungans of Kan Suh, does 
 not feern to hiive stirred the inhabitants of I'll to rebellion for some time. And 
 the insurrection may not have excited the bulk of the population of Dzungaria 
 too busily occupied in agriculture and trade, had it not been for incidental cir- 
 cumstances which worked on the minds of the Tungans and Taranchis. 
 
 195. The incidental circumstances were these: The hostile fronts presented 
 to the Russians by the Bokharijins and Kokkandians; the warfare along the 
 whole of the line from Kuldja to Tashkend, I e., along the whole extent of the 
 norlhern trade route from China into Central Asia; the consequent collapse of 
 trade, which threw most of the people out of their occupations ; the gatheriqg 
 tpgether in Kashgar of numerpus fugitives from Bokhara and Kokand which 
 added to the fanatic element in all the countries to the east of the scene of Rus- 
 
 sia 
 
 ♦ This name is also said to be derived from "taran," millet. 
 
MR. FORSYTH'S MISSION TO YARKAND. ^S 
 
 sian operations ; the revolution in Kashgar ; the sudden and easy delireretice of 
 that place and of others from China; the impunity with which theSe defections' 
 were suflfereii to pass ; the closing of the soui;hern trade route, and lastly, the 
 exaggerated accounts of the successesof the Tungans in Kan-Suh. 
 
 196. All these circumstances ripened the Tarancliis for vevoU. The appear- 
 ance on the scene of the northern body of Tungans was the signal for the 
 instantaneous rising of the Mahomedan TTaranchis, who required no persuasion. 
 The neighbouring Kirghizes, ever ready to plunder, were easily induced to side 
 with them, under a promise of rich booty. 
 
 197. The result was a simultaneous massacre of the Chinese and Manchurs^ 
 the destruction of Chuguchak, the sacking of Urumptsi, Manassy, and Kur- 
 Kara-Usu, and other small towns and villages, the appropriation, w recking, and 
 burning of all the Chinese stores, and the investment of Kuldja, its seizure, and 
 the subsequent fate of its citadal and garrison. 
 
 198. Fifteen thousand of the inhabitants of Kuldja took refuge in the Russian 
 dominions, but 90,000 remained to be enslaved. The Kulinaks, who remained 
 true to the Chinese Government, decamped, some into the heart of the steppes, 
 some into the Russian limits 
 
 199. Next came a division of the spoils among the confederates; and over 
 this they quarrelled. The Tungans, boastful of their Chinese cultivation, asserted 
 their own rights over the conquered country. The ruder Taranchis objected to 
 a fresh subordination, and being the most numerous in Dzunjiaria, fell upon their 
 allies, massacred the Tungans in Kuldja, and drove the rest beyond the limits of 
 the rii Valley, through Talk Pass. The Kirghizes, having enriched them- 
 selves with plunder, and fearing lest the Taranchis should make them disgorge, 
 moved their encampments into the deserts and steppes, whence some of them 
 were afterwards chased by the Kulmaks and obliged to take refuge in Southern 
 Siberia. 
 
 200. Dzungaria Proper is now divided between the Taranchis and Kulmaks, 
 thus: the Tarbagatai or Chuguchak district is in the hands of the latter, while 
 Kuldja and the neighbouring tuwns are held by the former. They are both 
 separated by the district of Kur-Kar-Usu, which, faid waste and abandoned, 
 forms a neutral zone scattered with the rotting bodies of the victims of the rebel- 
 lion, and freely roamed over by voracious wild beasts. 
 
 201. Of the form of Government amlong the Taranchis, the whileome slaves 
 of the Chinese, we have no information. Russian traders and caravans are 
 strictly excluded' from Kuldja, so that what is enacting therein, although that 
 place is only &t miles distant from the Russian frontier, remains a mystery. 
 The country is known to be peopled from the fact of the constant appearance of 
 armed bands on the Russian lines, and from repeated incursions of marauding 
 parties over the borders. 
 
 202. It has, however, been ascertained by the Russians, that the Kalmaks, who 
 had retired beyond the Yuldus Mountains, have returned to their fields in the 
 neighbourhood of Kuldja, These Kulmaks are ruled by an elderly woman. 
 
 203. A Tartar, who had returned from Kuldja, related at Fort Vernoij that he 
 had seen this Kulmak ruler proceeding to an interview with the chief of the 
 Taranchis. Her hair, he said, hung in long tresses down her back ; they were 
 so heavy with golden coins and othel- precious ornaments that they had to be 
 supported by two men as she walked. 
 
 204. At the p-reseiit time the Taranchis in and around Kuldja are said to 
 number about 12,000. 
 
 205. After quarrelling With the 'tuhganis, the Taranchis became apprehensive 
 of the danger of their isolated position, and sent emissaries to Yakoob Beg, re- 
 questing to be taken under his protection. This he was not able at once to 
 afford them, though, from his conversations with Mr, Shaw in 1869, it appeared 
 that he only waited for a fitting opportunity to move to their aid. This year 
 the T'unganis seem to have become more troublesome, and through fear of them 
 a second deputation was sent to Kashgar to ask for aid. It is also said that 
 disturbances broke out in Aksu, and- in consequence the Atalik left his capital in 
 
 «^ E 2 March 
 
,6 CORRESPONDENCE RELATING TO 
 
 March 1870 and moved witli all his forces against the enemy. It was very diffi- 
 cult to obtain reliable information of the progress of the war, but the fact seems 
 undoubted that the Kulmaks are fighting in company with the Atalik, and they 
 and the Taranchis have accepted from him a prince of the Khoja House as their 
 chief at Kuldja. The Atalik was said to have gone as far as Oorumchee, wliere 
 he defeated the whole force of the Tunganis. But as he was also reported to be 
 building a fort at Turfan, and could not leave the place to return to his capital, 
 it is probable tliat the expulsion or extinction of the Tunganis will be a work of 
 time, if it be accomplished at all. 
 
 206. I have said nothing in this report of scientific observations and explora- 
 tions, because the credit of making them does not belong to me ; but the reports 
 of Messrs. Shaw and Henderson will give all the desired information, and will 
 probably be considered to offer the greatest interest to the general public. 
 
 207. In concluding this report, I would diaw attention to the great services 
 rendered by Mr. Shaw. It is not merely because I found him an invaluable 
 companion that I now write of him. Having experienced the difficulties and 
 trouble of a journey to Varkund, even when backed up with all the prestige 
 of being accredited agents of the British Government and the invited guests 
 of the Atalik Ghazee, I cannot sufficiently express my arlmiration at the 
 enterprising energy and patient endurance which prompted Messrs. Shaw and 
 Hay ward to undertake their perilous journey, and to sustain them during a 
 drearv period of confinement. To the tact displayed by Mr. Shaw, and to the 
 friendly feeling which he inspired the Atalik and his officers to entertain 
 towards the British nation, we are mainly indebted for the safety of the present 
 expedition. 
 
 20.'<. The value of Dr. Henderson's services will be apparent from a perusal 
 of his own reports, and from inspection of the rare collection of plants and birds 
 which he so indefatigably made. ISiot only in his capacity of medical officer did 
 he earn our thanks, but in times of difficulty I was indebted to him for sound 
 advice, which I now have much pleasure in acknowledging. 
 
 209. I have already alluded to the arrangements made by Dr. Cayley : had his 
 instructions been more caiefully followed by the Ladakh officials, we should have 
 been spared much inconvenience. 
 
 21 0. 1 beg to notice the service rendered by Mir Akbar AU, Khan Bahadoor, c.s.i. 
 He was in charge of the portion of the camp which I left behind at Lokzay, and 
 brought it on to Yarkund, joining me at the town of Karghalik. Of Tara' Singh 
 I am bound to speak in the highest terms of gratitude, for to his admirable con- 
 duct, his fertility of resource, his untiring energy and activity, we owe our 
 departure from Yarkund, on the date fixed. His knowledge of the people, and 
 the ad\ice he gave based on that knowledge, proved of the greatest service to 
 me. Throughout the journey he and his brothers spared themselves from no 
 fatigue to ensure the comfort and safety of our camp, whilst his hearty good 
 temper proved invaluable in cheering the spirits of our followers in time of 
 difficulty or weary exhaustion. 
 
 211. I would next notice the service rendered by Faiz Buksh. Having 
 travelled through Afghanistan, Budakhshan, and across the Pamir to Yarkund, 
 be arrived in time to take the place of my Moonshee Dewan Buksh, whose con- 
 duct W.1S so very suspicious that 1 was obliged to dismiss him summarily, and 
 bring him back to India under surveillance. 
 
 212. Ibrahim Khan underlook at my request a rather hazardous journey from 
 Cashmere through Gilghit and Yaseen and across the Pamir to Yarkund, and 
 displayed great tact and acuteness in avoiding all difficulties by the way. Both 
 his and Faiz Buksh's account of their travels are being translated, and will be sub- 
 mitted to Government hereafter. 
 
 213. Mullik Kutubud-din, the vakeel attached to my camp during our march 
 through Cashmere, was most attentive and active in supplying our wants. 
 
 214. Mr. Shaw's and Dr. Henderson's report will be forwarded when re- 
 ceived. 
 
MR. FORSYTH'S MISSION TO YARKAND. 
 
 37 
 
 Appendix I. 
 
 List of Goods purchased at Yarkund and sold in Hindostan, 
 
 Name 
 
 of 
 
 Commodity. 
 
 Silk of all kinds 
 
 Tilla 
 
 Silver (kurus) - 
 
 Charas (first quality) 
 
 Charas (inferior) 
 Carpets - - - 
 
 Namda (a coarse 
 woollen cloth). 
 
 Silk - Daryaee and 
 Sbabee (a kind 
 of flowered silk). 
 
 Mushroo (silk striped 
 cloth). 
 
 Fushm . . . 
 
 Ponies . - - 
 
 Average 
 
 Quantity. 
 
 per seer - 
 
 per tola - 
 
 per 100 tolas 
 
 per maund 
 
 per yard - 
 per piece 
 
 per maund 
 per animal 
 
 Price. 
 
 at. 
 
 ■ y-w 
 
 4 
 
 13 
 
 100 
 
 50 
 
 10 
 2 
 
 a. p. 
 
 12 
 
 3 
 
 25 
 
 100 
 
 Hire. 
 
 R». a. p. 
 
 - 10 - 
 
 - 2 - 
 30 - - 
 
 30 - - 
 
 - 12 - 
 
 - 8 - 
 .. 8 - 
 
 - 8 - 
 30 - - 
 
 Duty. 
 
 Rs. a. p. 
 
 - 2 - 
 
 nil - 
 
 5 - - 
 
 2 - - 
 
 - 4 - 
 
 - 2 - 
 
 - 8 - 
 
 - 4 - 
 
 Total 
 Expenses. 
 
 Ra. a. p. 
 
 4 12 
 
 13 - - 
 
 100 2 - 
 
 85 - - 
 
 42 - - 
 
 3 - - 
 
 1 6 - 
 
 6 - - 
 
 3 12 
 
 67 - 
 
 100 - 
 
 Average 
 Selling 
 Price 
 
 in India, 
 
 Rs a. p. 
 
 6 12 
 
 15 8 - 
 
 108 2 - 
 125 
 
 50 - - 
 
 4 8- 
 
 2 - - 
 
 7 8- 
 
 5 - - 
 
 80 - - 
 
 125 - - 
 
 Average 
 Profit. 
 
 Rt. 
 
 a. p. 
 
 2 - 
 
 2 8 
 
 8 - 
 
 40 - 
 
 8 - 
 
 1 8 
 
 - 10 
 
 1 8 
 
 1 4 
 
 23 - 
 
 25 - 
 
 Bbuarks. 
 
 Product of Khoten. 
 
 - - ditto. 
 
 - - ditto. 
 
 Produced in Yarkund and prepared 
 from bhang. 
 
 - - ditto - - ditto. 
 Brought from Khoten and 
 
 Yarkund. 
 • - ditto - - ditto. 
 
 From Khoten. 
 
 - - ditto. 
 
 From Yarkund, Khoten, and 
 Turfan. 
 
 These are brought from Yarkund 
 and Khoten. The speculation is 
 not very profitable. But the 
 animals being used as beasts of 
 burden, the saving of carriage is 
 counted towards the price, and 
 the animals are sold, accordingly, 
 at a little over the cost price, 
 which includes the cost of feeding 
 on the way. 
 
 Appendix II. 
 
 
 
 List of Goods exported from India and sold in Yarkund. 
 
 
 No. 
 
 Name 
 
 of 
 
 Commodity. 
 
 Average 
 
 Hire. 
 
 Duty. 
 
 Total 
 Expenses. 
 
 Average 
 
 Selling 
 
 Price 
 
 at Yarkund. 
 
 Average 
 Profit. 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 Quantity. 
 
 Price. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Rs. a. p. 
 
 Ml. a. p. 
 
 Rs. a. p. 
 
 Rs. u. p. 
 
 Ri. a. p. 
 
 Ri. a. p. 
 
 
 1 
 
 Piece Goods - 
 
 per maund 
 
 100 - - 
 
 30 - - 
 
 10 - - 
 
 140 - - 
 
 180 - 
 
 40 - - 
 
 In great demand. 
 
 2 
 
 Spices, all kinds 
 
 11 
 
 15 - - 
 
 30 - - 
 
 3 - - 
 
 43 - - 
 
 50 
 
 2 - - 
 
 No saving. 
 
 3 
 
 Brocade (Einkhab) - 
 
 per piece 
 
 80 - - 
 
 5 - - 
 
 1 - - 
 
 83 - - 
 
 116 - - 
 
 30 - 
 
 Demand is great. 
 
 4 
 5 
 
 Broad Cloth - 
 Green Tea 
 
 per yard 
 per'maund 
 
 3 - - 
 80 - - 
 
 2 8- 
 30 - - 
 
 - 8 - 
 10 
 
 4 - - 
 120 - ~ 
 
 7 - - 
 220 - - 
 
 3 - - 
 
 100 - - 
 
 - - ditto. 
 Very great profit. 
 
 6 
 1 
 
 Sugar and Sugarcandy 
 
 Posteen (Garments 
 made of the Beaver 
 Skins). 
 
 each 
 
 13 - 
 3 - 
 
 30 - - 
 1 - - 
 
 5 - - 
 1 - - 
 
 48 - - 
 5 - - 
 
 88 - - 
 8 - - 
 
 40 - - 
 3 - - 
 
 . - ditto. 
 Sold very fast. 
 
 8 
 
 Goat Skins 
 
 per score 
 
 8 - - 
 
 5 - - 
 
 2 - - 
 
 15 - - 
 
 22 - - 
 
 7 - - 
 
 - - ditto. 
 
 9 
 10 
 
 Opium . - - 
 
 Country-made mus- 
 kets. 
 
 permaund 
 each 
 
 280 - 
 30 - - 
 
 30 - - 
 4 - - 
 
 20 - - 
 2 - - 
 
 330 - - 
 36 - - 
 
 370 - - 
 76 - - 
 
 40 - - 
 40 - - 
 
 - - ditto. 
 
 Sold exceedingly well. 
 
 U 
 
 Swords - . • 
 
 
 5 - - 
 
 1 - - 
 
 1 - - 
 
 7 - - 
 
 11 - - 
 
 5 - - 
 
 - - ditto. 
 
 12 
 
 Pistols - 
 
 3> 
 
 30 - - 
 
 4 - - 
 
 2 - - 
 
 36 - - 
 
 76 - - 
 
 40 - - 
 
 . . ditto. 
 
 13 
 
 Gunpowder 
 
 per maund 
 
 40 - - 
 
 80 - - 
 
 3 - - 
 
 73 - - 
 
 120 - - 
 
 47 - - 
 
 . . ditto. 
 
 6o. 
 
 E 3 
 
38 
 
 CORBESPONUENCE RELATING TO 
 Appendix HI. 
 
 Detailed Estimate of Sale in Eastern Turkestan Bazars of Printed Calico per Piece 
 of 21 Yards (= 28 arsGhines) weighing 5 lbs. 
 
 Cost in Bombay at 4 annas per yard - - - - " " " 
 
 Carriage and other charges, Bombay to Yarkund (at 5 /. 12 s. per cwt, 
 
 or 8 annas per poubd) """T""""" 
 
 Duty in Ladakh (4 per cent, on prime cost) 
 
 Duty in Yarkuwl (1 in 40 in kind) 
 
 Profit 
 
 Selling price in Yarkund (80 tangasf per piece of 28 arschines) 
 
 Ms. a. p. 
 5 4- 
 
 2 8- 
 
 •-3 6 
 
 - 3 6 
 
 8 3- 
 5 3- 
 
 13 6 - 
 
 N.B —The above is a low average to take, as many samples are at a price of 151) tangas 
 for 50 arschines, 125 tangas for 40 arschines, 175 tangas for 50 arschines, and (from 
 Kashgar") 4 tillas for 40 arschines, or, in other words, Es. 14., Rs. 14. 10., Rs. 20. 6. 6., 
 and Rs. 16. 12. respectively for a piece of 28 arschines (as above). 
 
 The profits on the articles detailed on the last page have been calculated in a similar 
 manner. 
 
 The above prices are all those given for Eussian goods. English manufactures are 
 practically unknown in Eastern Turkestan owing to the smaUness of the supply. But 
 Mr. Shaw reports that in Kashgar some English chintz had arrived there shortly before 
 his arrival, and had been eagerly bought up at 5 and 6 tillas the piece, instead of 4 tiUas, 
 which the Eussian fetches. 
 
 of 
 
 Selling Peices of various Articles in Yarkund. 
 
 1. Chintz for printed calico, large pattern, "Goolanar," per piece 
 
 28 yards ---------- 
 
 2. Chintz (coarse) --------- 
 
 3. Chintz, sort called " dress," 12 yards - - - - 
 
 4. Chintz, „ " dress gown," 40 
 
 5. "White shirting « lutta," 40 
 
 6. White shirting (coarse), 40 
 
 7. White shirting (coarser), 40 
 
 8. Muslin for turbans 20 
 
 9. Coloured shirting " Hulvan," 40 
 
 10. Dimity, red, " Goomtee," 28 
 
 11. Dimity, white, „ 40 
 
 12. Women's veilj red .-. .-._- 
 
 13. Silk stuff, " Atwar," per yard - - 
 
 14. Brocade, " Kinkhab," per piece, Rs. 150. to 
 
 15. Black tea, Pekoe, "Zira cha," per pound 
 
 16. Green tea, ordinary --------- 
 
 17. Green tea, fine, " Kara Kokla" - - ^ - - - - 
 
 18. Common sugar, per pound - - - - - - -- 
 
 19. Eaw silk from Khoten (100 tangas per charak), 5 lbs. = per lb. 
 
 Rs.3. 6. 
 
 Rs. 
 
 22 
 
 12 
 
 6 
 
 25 
 
 20 
 
 16 
 
 14 
 
 8 
 
 20 
 
 14 
 
 20 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 200 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 7 
 
 a. p. 
 
 4 - 
 
 8 - 
 
 8 - 
 
 8 - 
 
 6i. 8d. 
 
 Appendix IV. 
 
 Comparative Peices in the Bombay and Yarkund Markets of several Articles. 
 
 
 Names. 
 
 Bombay. 
 
 Yarkund. 
 
 Rbmabes, 
 
 
 Per Yard. 
 
 Per Yard. 
 
 1 
 
 2, 3, & 4 
 
 5, 6, & 7 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 Chintz (print) - . - - . 
 
 Chintz 
 
 Whife shirtings . . - . 
 Muslin, per piece of 20 yards - 
 Dyed cotton cloth, per yard 
 Dimity .-•--- 
 
 Rs. a. p. Ri, a. p. 
 
 - 4 4 
 
 - 1 4 to - 3 - 
 
 - 2 5 to - 4 10 
 
 1 3 - to 2 - - 
 
 - 2 - to - 2 4 
 
 2 - 3. to 3. - a 
 
 Rs. a. p. Rs. a. p. 
 
 - 12 6 
 
 - 6 10 to - 10 
 
 - 5 6 to - 8 - 
 8 - - 
 
 Per yard - 8 - 
 , _ 8. - 
 
 
 * This will be remitted in future. 
 
 ■j- On an average 6 tangas = 1 rupee. 
 
MR. FOBSYTH'S MISSION TCJ YARKAWD. 
 
 59 
 
 Appendix V. 
 
 CuKKENT Market Prices of the yarkimd Bazar for 1868, and of tbe Jalandar Bazar for 1.870. 
 
 ■No. ! 
 
 Name of Commodity. 
 
 Weight. 
 
 Price at Yarkund. , 
 
 Pfice at Jalandar. 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 
 Uriru ■: 
 
 ' 
 
 
 Rs. a. 
 
 P- 
 
 
 1 
 
 Rice - - 
 
 2 seers, Eng. - 
 
 1^ tangas 
 
 - 2 
 
 6 
 
 1 taiiga = from 2 .anqas 6 pje 
 to 2 annas 9 pie. 
 
 2 
 3 
 
 Indian corn (makkee) - 
 Moong (a kind of piilse) 
 
 ditto 
 ditto 
 
 3 paisah - 
 15 ditto - 
 
 - 2 
 
 - 4 
 
 8 
 
 1 tanga = 25 paisahs, and 1 
 paisah = 2 pools. 
 
 4 
 5 
 
 Small baked bread 
 ijjarge baked bread 
 
 3 chitaks - 
 
 5 and 6 chitaks - 
 
 1 ditto - 
 
 2 ditto. 
 
 
 9 
 
 Atta (flour) is not generally sold ; 
 eooked food is gfiner-ally sold 
 and bread is often bartered for 
 other articles; 
 
 6 
 
 Indian corn bread 
 
 3 chitaks - 
 
 1 ditto. 
 
 
 
 
 7 
 8 
 
 Slutton ... 
 Turmeric (Huldge) 
 
 2 seers 
 ditto 
 
 2J tangas 
 12 ditto 
 
 - 5 
 
 - 8 
 
 6 
 
 Well-to-do people use mutton ; 
 others use horse-flesh or beef,, 
 which is cheaper. 
 
 9 
 
 Sugar-candy 
 
 ditto 
 
 15 ditto 
 
 - 15 
 
 - 
 
 
 10 
 11 
 
 Green tea - 
 Bombay tea (Gola) 
 
 ditto 
 ditto 
 
 12 to 14 tano^as - 
 8 to 12 ditto. 
 
 4 or 5 - 
 
 
 Sold well, if the colour and fla- 
 voui' be good, and the leaves 
 easily boiled. 
 
 12 
 
 Sonth Zingeberis - 
 
 ditto 
 
 3 T. — 8 paisah 
 
 - 11 
 
 - 
 
 
 13 
 
 Pepper ... 
 
 ditto 
 
 18 tangas - 
 
 1 4 
 
 - 
 
 
 14 
 
 Cardamoms, white 
 
 1 tola 
 
 10 ditto. 
 
 
 
 
 15 
 
 Cinnamon - - . 
 
 ditto 
 
 6 ditto - 
 
 - - 
 
 4 
 
 
 15 
 
 •Cloves 
 
 ditto 
 
 1 tanga' - 
 
 - - 
 
 4 
 
 
 17 
 
 Nutmeg . - - 
 
 Each 
 
 2 tangas - 
 
 - - 
 
 4 
 
 
 18 
 
 Mashroo (silk cloth) - 
 
 1 piece of 7J yards 
 
 16 to 30 tangas - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 Not used in the Punjab ; used 
 in colder climates. 
 
 19 
 
 Doria (cloth) 
 
 Enough for a 
 choga. 
 
 35 to 40 ditto - 
 
 " 
 
 ■ 
 
 Not used in the Punjab ; half 
 silk and half cotton like the 
 ' former. 
 
 20 
 
 Shkhee 
 
 Piece of 7 J yards 
 
 35 to 40 ditto - 
 
 ~ 
 
 " 
 
 This is a kind of flowered silk, 
 not brought here, but it is 
 liked by wealthy persons. 
 
 21 
 
 Atlas satin - - - 
 
 Piece of 7 J yards 
 
 40 to 50 ditto - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - Ditto - ditto. 
 
 22 
 
 Cottpn cloth, Trhite 
 
 
 
 
 
 Out of these, Malmal (mijslin) 
 is much used for turbans ; but 
 in Yarkund, people use coloured 
 clothes. Kinkhab is used by 
 those who can afibrd it. 
 
 FurtIher Remarks. 
 
 OnP knrus of silver weighing 2 seers, English weight, which is equal to 160 rupees in weight, is sold at Yarkund for 
 168 ?o m ruoLs IccordinI o^the current price. In^he Punjab, the person selling gets 1 anna profit for every rupee 
 St At dS the St allowed is n,ore. At Yarkund, the same is valued at from 30 tdlas to 33 tidas. And every 
 Hs i; valued at fromToOO to 1,100 tangas. TiUas (new), which weigh from 4 to 4^ mashas, can be had at Yarkund, 
 and in the Punjab are sold at Eg. 5. 8. or Rs. 5. 12. 
 
 6o. 
 
 E 4 
 
40 
 
 CORRESPONDENCE RELATING TO 
 
 Appendix VI. 
 
 CoMPAEATiVE CoST of Teanspoet of One Cwt. to Yarhund, from England^ and from Russia. 
 
 Moscow to Taehkend, at 4 roubles per pood of 
 36 lbs. 
 
 Tashkend to Yarkund, at 8 tillas per horseload 
 of 3 cwts. ------- 
 
 £. s. d. 
 
 1 19 8 
 
 2 8- 
 
 4 7 8 
 
 P. S. — Taking Kurraohee as the port of entry, the rates 
 would be, with a distance by rail, when all is open, of 800 
 miles to Lahore, — 
 
 Cotton goods 
 
 Woollen 
 
 Cutlery 
 
 £. s. d. 
 
 - 9 - 
 
 - 11 - 
 
 - 13 - 
 
 England to Bombay or Calcutta, at 2Z. a ton 
 
 Calcutta to Lahore, 1,277 miles (Chord line), 
 for Cotton piece goods * - . - - 
 
 Terminal charge, &c. - . - . - 
 
 Lahore to Yarkund, at 65 rupees per horseload of 
 2 cwt. .----.. 
 
 ♦ For Woollens, the freight would be, 
 Calcutta to Lahore - - - . 
 
 And for Cutlery - - - - - 
 
 s. d. 
 2 - 
 9 5 
 
 - 1 
 
 3 5 
 
 3 17 
 
 - 12 6 
 
 - 15 6 
 
 No. 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 13 
 
 ROUTES. 
 
 From Leh to Yarkund. — Route taken by Yarkund Expedition in 1870. 
 
 Name of Stage 
 
 or 
 Halting Place. 
 
 Tikse - 
 
 Chimr^ . . . - 
 
 Sakti - - - - 
 Tso Idk - 
 
 Durgoh - - - - 
 
 Muglib .. - - . 
 
 Lukong - . . 
 
 Chagra - - . . 
 
 Rimdee - - - - 
 
 Pumsul - - - - 
 
 Gogra - - - . 
 
 Camp Chang Clienmo 
 Valley. 
 
 Distance 
 
 in 
 
 Miles. 
 
 10 
 11 
 
 6 
 12 
 
 10 
 
 12 
 
 14 
 
 12 
 14 
 
 11 
 14 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 On banks of Indus. 
 
 The valley of the Indus is left about 2 miles before reaching Chimr^ village 
 and monastery. 
 
 Up a ravine well covered with wood and grass. Village at Sakti. 
 Cross Chang \A Pass; ascent steep for 6 miles, but road good, 
 lake on noith side. 
 
 Easy descent 
 abundant. 
 
 to bed of river 
 
 Encamp near 
 village at Durgoh; water, fuel, and grass 
 
 Road passes along bed of river; plenty of grass and fuel; village of Tankts^ 
 passed about half way. 
 
 Soon after leaving Muglib, a small lake of fresh water is passed, and a few 
 miles further on, the river which flov^s into this lake suddenly disappears. 
 The Pangong Lake is reached at the 15th mile ; its Waters are quite brackish, 
 Lukong is a collection of huts or habitations half buried in the ground. 
 
 The last traces of the Buddhist religion are seen here. A few roofless enclo- 
 sures afford shelter to the Bhot shepherds; grass and fuel procurable in 
 abundance ; a storehouse has been built by the Maharaja here. 
 
 Cross Masimik Pass, 18,457 feet high (according to Hay ward) ; Johnstone 
 makes it 19,400 feet. Ascent to the summit easy, except for the last 2 miles. 
 Descent on north side very gradual. 
 
 Road stony and rough for 4 miles, afterwards descent easy to bed of Chang-, 
 chenmo River ; tamarisk bushes give fuel; grass to be found about 2 miles) 
 lower down the stream. 
 
 Road for 4 or 5 miles along lefl bank of river; stream difficult to ford in sum- 
 mer; cross a low spur to Kugrang Valley. 
 
 Road to hot springs, about 6 miles, tolerably easy; there is ofte bad descent 
 and ascent, from iiot springs ; road is over steep, short ascents and descents. 
 Scarcely any grass or fuel to be had at the encamping ground. 
 
MR. FORSYTH'S I\IISSION TO YARKAND. 
 
 41 
 
 Routes.— From Leh to Yarkund — Eoute taken by Yarkund Expedition in 1^10— continued. 
 
 Name of Stage 
 
 or 
 Halting-place. 
 
 Camp Nisclift 
 
 Camp Linzi Thung Plain 
 
 Lok zang 
 
 Thaldat- 
 
 Patsalang - . . 
 Camp north of Soda Plain 
 Camp in Karakash Valley 
 
 Kaffirdurrah - - - 
 Camp in valley 
 
 KyangMaidanj wild horse 
 
 plain. 
 Giilbashar - - - 
 
 Balakched - - - 
 
 TOghra Su 
 
 Tilartarg^sh - 
 
 Camp south of SanjCi Pass 
 
 Kichik yilak - 
 
 T^m 
 
 30 ChflchA Pass 
 
 Mazar 
 
 Kizil Lungnr 
 Sanju - 
 
 Eoshtiik 
 
 Oi-Tograk 
 Borah - 
 
 Distance 
 in 
 
 Miles. 
 
 1-2 
 10 
 
 25 
 
 U 
 18 
 14 
 24 
 
 20 
 16 
 12 
 
 17 
 
 11 
 
 22 
 
 10 
 11 
 
 10 
 
 12 
 15 
 
 12 
 
 10 
 14 
 
 25 
 
 20 
 12 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 Road leaves main valley at hist halting-place, and passes up a ravine on west 
 to Chang Lang La. Ascent easy, scarcely any descent on north side. 
 Frozen bed of river followed to point of junction with another stream. 
 Nischu means two streams. No fuel or 1 
 
 60. 
 
 Road follows river course for 6 or 7 miles, and then crosses a sandy plain for 4 
 miles more ; a steep descent of 500 feet takes the traveller to the Linzi Thung 
 Plain. Camp in sandy bed of dry river bed; a muddy liquid can be 
 obtained by digging holes. No grass, and yery scanty fuel is collected from 
 the Boortse plant. 
 
 Long tedious Jmarcli over sandy desert to a remarkable dome-like peak in 
 range, running east and west. Pass under this peak and over two ridges 
 into a valley where a little water and fuel and some grass is found ; a very 
 trying march. 
 
 A frozen lake ; road very easy, over undulating desert plains ; no grass, and 
 
 scarcely any fuel. A very little grass about a mile off. 
 Road good, over open plain, for 12 or 13 miles ; grass in small quantities to be 
 
 found on both sides of a low pass. At Patsalang; water obtained by digging. 
 Cross three dried-up salt lakes. Camp in a valley on left of plain : grass 
 
 abundant, but water only obtainable by digging. 
 
 The Karakash river is struck after a march of 12 miles, to Brungsa, where 
 deserted huts are seen; the road follows the course of the stream for 12 
 miles, and then brushwood and grass are found. 
 
 Plenty of grass and fuel. 
 
 Grass and fuel. 
 
 An easy march. Grass and fuel abound. 
 
 Kirghiz encampment passed on the road. Near this place are the celebrated 
 jade quarries.' 
 
 Cross the river Karakash ; difficult passage in summer ; fine pasture ground at 
 Balakchee. 
 
 Fort of Shadulla passed about the 10th mile. River Karakash has to be 
 
 crossed twice with great difficulty. Plenty of wood and grass. Camp on 
 
 south side of Toghra Su. A niountain torrent, deep, and rapid and scarcely 
 
 fordable, except in the forenoon. 
 Cross Toghra Su and pass the fort called Ali Nuzr Kurgham. This is manned 
 
 by soldiers from Yarkund, From the Kurghan a road goes up th^^ valley to 
 
 the Killian Pass. 
 Road along Karakash for 5 miles to Ali Mazar Abu Bukr, where in summer 
 
 the river can be crossed with great difficulty. Laden amimals hav? to cross 
 
 a steep pass which caused a detour of 3 miles- Road here leaves Karakash 
 
 Valley and goes up a narrow stony ravine, crossing a hill to^'rent every 
 
 hundred yards. 
 Cross Gerim Pass 16,612 feet; very steep ascent and descent. The pass is 
 
 impracticable for laden horses, whose loads have to be carried on yaks. 
 
 Horses and camels unladen can cross the pass. Kirchik yilak iij the summer 
 
 encampment of the Kirghiz. 
 Road down Sanju Valley, crossing stream; easy march, plenty of wood and 
 
 grass. 
 In spring and autumn, when the water is low, the road follows the river to 
 
 Sanju about 30 miles. In summer a detour has to be made over the 
 
 Chfiehu Pass. 
 Cross a pass 11,847 feet, into the Arpalak river, to Mazar; abundant grass, 
 
 shrubs and large trees ; game very plentiful in this valley. 
 
 Down ArpaMk river. 
 
 Road leaves Arpaldk Valley, and crossing a low sandy ridge, slopes down to 
 
 Sanjui, a cluster of villages. 
 Road crosses the Sanju river and ascends a low range of sand hills, across 
 
 which it descends to the small hamlet of Langur 15 miles from Sanjfi. 
 
 Hence it crosses the desert to Koshtak, a village dependent on the Killian 
 
 stream for its cultivation. 
 Road across desert to village in a valley. 
 Ascend low range of sand hills, and across desert to Borah. Here the Killian 
 
 route joins in. 
 
 F 
 
42 
 
 CORRESPONDENCE RELATING TO 
 
 
 Routes, — From Leh to Yarkund. —Route taken by Yarkund Expedition in 1870 — continued. 
 
 No. 
 
 Name of Stage 
 
 or 
 Halting-place. 
 
 Distance 
 _ -in" 
 
 Miles. 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 37 
 
 Karghalik - - - 
 
 24 
 
 At 8 miles from Borah, tlie road leaves the low hills, and descends to an arm 
 of the great desert of Gobi. Distance across about 12 miles to village of 
 Besharik, from which place to Kargalik is about 4 miles. Here the direct 
 road from Khoten through Gooma and the road from the Kogyar Pass join 
 in, to Yarkund. 
 
 38 
 
 Pushgam - - - 
 
 21 
 
 At 11 miles from Karghalik the Tisnaf river is crossed j it is scarcely fordable 
 in summer ; & miles beyond is Yaksbumba bazaar. 
 
 39 
 
 Yungi Bazaar 
 
 14 
 
 The direct road to Yarkund crosses the Yarkund riyer, not far from Pushgam, 
 but in summer, owing to the size of the river, a detour has to be made to 
 Yungi bazaar, some 10 miles lower down the bank, where a ferry is plied 
 with three large punts- 
 
 40 
 
 Yarkund 
 
 8 
 
 Cross the river in boats, and then a ride through meadow, fields, and suburban 
 villages to Yarkund. 
 
 Route from Yarkund to Khoten. 
 
 1 
 
 Pushgam 
 Kurghalik 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 Lokchuldk 
 
 4 
 
 Goomah 
 
 S 
 
 Moji - 
 
 6 
 
 Choda - 
 
 7 
 
 Pyalma 
 
 8 
 
 Zowa - 
 
 9 
 
 Khoten 
 
 I Total distance, 37 tish=185 miles. 
 
 No. 
 
 Route from Yarkund to Kashgar, given by Mr. Hayward. 
 
 Main Road feom Yaekund to Kashgak. 
 
 The road is regularly traversed by two-wheeled carts and conveyances. 
 
 Name of Stage 
 
 or 
 Halting-place. 
 
 Yarkund 
 Kokrubat 
 
 Kizil 
 
 Distance 
 
 in 
 
 Miles. 
 
 Yanghissar 
 
 22J 
 
 27J 
 
 32 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 Road conducts along north wall of the fort, and, at 4J miles from the city, 
 crosses the Urpi canal by a wooden bridge. Passing the villages of Kara 
 Koour and TJigil, it skirts some marshy ground to Kokrubat, a village of 
 200 houses, with a caravan serai. 
 
 Road skirts the " Hamed-i-Dusht," a large barren tract of country extending |l 
 up to the Kiziltah range on the west. At 14 miles from Kokrubatis a halt- ' 
 mg-place called Ak-Langur, where is a musjid and two wells of water. 
 
 Kizil is a village of 500 houses, with a large tank and caravan serai. 
 
 The road passes the villages of Chamalung, Khoduk, Koshimbash, and Toblok ' 
 to Kelpnu, an old Chinese " urtang " or police station, now in ruins ; at 2J i! 
 miles before reaching Yanghissar it crosses the Largrah river by bridge. 
 
 Yanghissar is a commercial town of some 11,000 houses situated 82 miles | 
 north-west of Yarkund, and 43 J south of Kasligar. The fort lies at a distance 
 of 600 yards to the north of the town. 
 
MR. FORSYTH'S MISSION TO YARKAND. 
 
 43 
 
 Route from Yarkund to Kashgar, given by Mr. Hayward-—oontinuQdi 
 
 No. 
 
 i 
 
 Name of Stage 
 
 or 
 Halting- place. 
 
 Yupchan 
 Kashgar (old city) 
 
 Total 
 
 Distance 
 
 in 
 
 Miles. 
 
 224 
 
 21 
 
 125J 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 Road passes villages of Koomlok and Togloh, and crosses the Hosiin river by 
 bridge. Then continues up left bank of river to Supohan, a village of some 
 700 houses. ^ ' ^ 
 
 At 2j miles from Supchan cross Khanarik river by bridge ; and, passing the 
 the village of Tasgam, cross a canal from the Khanarik river, and a branch 
 of the Kashgar river, to the fort of Kashgar, which lies some three miles 
 south of the city. Cross Kizil Daria, or the Kashgar river, midway between 
 the fort and city. 
 
 Kashgar contains about 28,000 houses, and from 60 to 70,000 inhabitants. 
 
 Miles. 
 
 Route from Yarkund to Aksu. 
 
 \ 
 2 
 3 
 4 
 5 
 6 
 7 
 8 
 9 
 10 
 
 Yutkoh - 
 Lil4k - 
 Minal • 
 Aksmaral 
 Mur41 bashi 
 Chudri kAl 
 Shamal - 
 Yaku kudok 
 Eikfil - 
 Aksu - 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 In the time of the Chinese there were 
 stages which now are reduced to 10. 
 
 18 
 
 Route from Shadula to Gogra, taken by the Yarkund Expedition returning. 
 
 No. 
 
 6o 
 
 Name of Stage 
 
 or 
 Halting Place. 
 
 Shadula to- 
 Sooget - 
 
 Chibra 
 
 Maliksba 
 
 Karatagh Lake 
 
 Shoijilga 
 
 19 
 
 24 or 35 
 
 17 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 Road for 4 miles along the Kara Kash, and then turns south up a ravine; 
 plenty of grass and fuel. 
 
 Ascent gradual till within a mile from the summit; height of pass 18,237 feet; 
 camp at Chibra 4 miles beyond summit ; no grass or fuel. 
 
 An easy march ; no grass or fuel at encampment, but some is obtainable on the 
 west valleys not very far off. 
 
 Direction S. E. across plain to a depression in S. E. angle of Karatagh range ; 
 road nearly level, wood plentiful on plains and water at one place 6 or 7 miles 
 short of camp. At Lake abundant good, fuel (Burtsi) and water and grass 
 1 mile off, up mountain S.W. 
 
 Cross valley and ascend gravel ravine S. E. for 3 miles, turn to right (south) 
 • up an easy pass, ascent 400 to 500 feet. From top descend by a long wind- 
 ing ravine, 9 or 10 miles, to a wide sloping gravel valey. Cross this 4 miles 
 to Shoriilea at its lower end, where is water and a little grass- but no iuel, 
 though plenty 4 miles lower down. Where the stream enters broad valley 
 4 miles above Shorjilga is also fuel. 
 
 F 2 
 
44 
 
 CORRESPONDENCE RELATING TO 
 
 Koute from Shadula to Gogra, taken by the Yarkund Expedition r&tnvnmg— continued. 
 
 No. 
 
 *7 
 
 10 
 
 II 
 
 12 
 
 Name of Stage 
 
 or 
 Hailing Place. 
 
 Shadula to- 
 Khushmaidan 
 
 Kiziljilga 
 
 Shinglung 
 
 Sumdo 
 
 Camp in valley north slope 
 of the Changchenmo 
 Range. 
 
 Valley south of Cliange- 
 henmo Rang;e, and run- 
 ning down to hot spring. 
 
 Gogra 
 
 Distance 
 
 in 
 Miles. 
 
 U 
 
 17 or 18 
 
 13 to 14 
 
 11 
 
 20* 
 
 16t 
 
 20 to 21 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 Easy march 7 or 8 miles down the Shorjilga Ravine to the Kardpash River, 
 then up that river 6 miles to Khushmaidan, which is on left S. E. side of 
 valley. Ph.'nty of fuel in lower part of Shorjilga Valley, and again at its 
 junction wilh Kajra Kash. One mile above junction is " Chungtash," a 
 
 ' lofty rock on right bank, behind which is grass; IJ miles above Chungtash, 
 round a rocky spur on left bank, is most abundant excellent grass and fuel. 
 At Khushmaidan also, on left bank behind a spur, is abundant fuel (Myri- 
 caria), and grass along the side. 
 
 March up broad valley (generally left bank) of Kara Kash. At 13 miles pass 
 under a conical blank mountain, where is abundant fuel. At Kiziljilga 
 Camp under lee E. side of a rocky spur round which river turns. Abundant 
 fuel and a little grass. Much grass 1 mile off to East, and again in all ravine 
 to S. E. 
 
 Easy march nearly south up main stream, the smaller (now dry) stream from 
 east come from '■ Kizil Diwan." Fuel everywhere, grass abundant in all 
 side valley, as well as frequently in main valley. Cross occasional firm level 
 snow beds. At camp abundant grass and fuel. 
 
 Easy level march up right side of valley. Plenty of grass and fuel for first 
 3 miles, after turning S. E. under a stupendous limestone clifi^; they then 
 cease for a fe:W miles. At Sumdo a wide plain or basio into which the river 
 or main valley come from west, with large valleys leading through rocky 
 defiles from east. At Sumdo, on west side of valley, abundant fuel and 
 pasture. 
 
 Keep west up Kara Kash for IJ miles, then turn S. up a ravine, with small 
 stream, for 4 miles to foot of easy jjass nearly due south, and just west 
 of a vast irregular domelike mountain. There is a second pass to the east of 
 this crag, which is higher and less direct. The pass takes 15 minutes to 
 ascend. 
 
 ^•B. — It would be well to go beyond Sumdo, and camp near foot of 
 pass, where is water but no grass or fuel, but some is to be stored and some 
 can be carried from Sumdo. 
 
 From top keep down the valley S. by E. for 4 miles, then across wide valley, 
 a plam (which is ihe western corner of the Lingzi-thang), for 6 miles, passing 
 three black rocks standing up apart in this plain, down the vallev and on the 
 opposite side of plain, where the southern ascent begins, is ■water,'but no grass 
 or fuel. (Can camp here or continue 4 or 5 miles up southern slope, and 
 camp m-one of the shallow valleys running north ; the latter preferable. No 
 fuel anywhere). 
 
 A very gradual easy ascent over undulating slope, and up wide shallow valleys ; 
 direction generally S. by E. (compass) to the top of the ridge, which is 
 high, but the ascent is very slight; 3 miles north of the main ridge a low 
 rounded ridge has to be crossed beyond, «. of which is a broad sloping plain 
 leading right up to main pass, and crossed from E. to IV. by a deep ravine, 
 containing a tolerable stream of water. ' 
 
 Descent from top of pass neariy W. for 4 or 6 miles, at firet rather steep, then 
 gradual down valley to camp, a place where stream turns round to S. andE, 
 At camp abundant grass atfd some fuel ; plenty of fuel 2 miles lower down. 
 Koad very easy. 
 
 Road very good and" easy dovrn valley. At 12 miles join road from « Chung- 
 lung-Ill,' at 14 the hot springs, and at 20 Gogra. 
 
 Grass and fuel very abundant the whole way down vallev to junction with old 
 road, beyond winch only fuel, no grass. 
 
 * This distance is reckoned from Sumdo. 
 
 t This distance is counted from about 4 miles up the slope on the south side of the plain, or 3 miles south of the pond ia map. 
 
MR. FORSYTH'S MISSION TO YARKAND. 45 
 
 (No. 413 — 1370.) 
 
 From T. H. Thornton, Esq., d.c.l., Secretary to the Government of Punjab to 
 the Secretary to the Government of India, Foreign Department, dated 13th 
 December 1870. 
 
 Sir, 
 It was stated in your telegram of the 2nd current, that his Excellency tlie 
 Viceroy hoped to receive, by an early date, the honourable the Lieutenant 
 Governor's comments on the report of Mr, Forsyth's visit to the court of the 
 Atalik Ghazi, and on matters connected with that officer's journey to and from 
 Yarkund. 
 
 2. This report was received by his Honor on the 10th current, and as it 
 appears that a copy has been submitted to his Excellency by Mr. Forsyth in 
 person in Calcuttaj it seems unnecessary for the Lieutenant Governor to offer any 
 remarks on the details of this special deputation of a British official to Yarkund; 
 he will, therefore, confine himself to stating his opinion that, considering that 
 Mr. Forsyth's visit " was not in any sense a mission, and had no political 
 objects," it speaks well for the influence of the British Gocernment, and for 
 the intelligence of the Atalik Ghazi, that the visitors were so well received, and 
 so courteously treated. 
 
 3. His Excellency the Governor General having organised the deputation, 
 the meritorious conduct of the officers concerned can be best left by his Honor 
 to the consideration of his Lordship in Council, and the Lieutenant Governor 
 desires me to conclude with the remark that missions with more pomp and 
 greater exhibition of symbols of power have sometimes resulted in disappoint- 
 ment, while it admits of no question that the march to Yarkund, the stay there, 
 and the return from Yarkund by so unpretentious a body of English and native 
 officials is, in itself, a success creditable to them, alike as enterprising travellers 
 and as public servants who have ably sustained the honour and reputation of the 
 Government which sent them. 
 
 (No. 31. p.) 
 
 From C. U. Aitchison, Esq., Secretary to the Government of India, Foreign 
 Department, to the Secretary to the Government of Punjab. 
 
 Sir, , Fort William, 6 January 1871. 
 
 I AM directed by His Excellency the Viceroy and Governor General in Council 
 to reply to your letter of 13th December, submitting the remarks of his honour 
 the Lieutenant Governor on Mr. Forsyth's report of his expedition to Yarkund. 
 
 2. In December 1869 you reported by telegraph that an envoy from the 
 Kushbegi had arrived at Leh on his way to British territory. His arrival at 
 Lahore with letters to the Lieutenant Governor, the Viceroy, and Her. Majesty 
 the Queen was reported on 29th January. He was honourably received by the 
 Lieutenant Governor, Sir D. Macleod, and after a short stay at Lahore, he 
 arrived in Calcutta towards the end of March, and at an interview with his 
 Excellency the Viceroy, having produced letters from the Kushbegi giving him 
 powers to discuss and arrange various matters with his Excellency, he stated that 
 he had been instructed by his Government to request that a British officer should 
 be sent back with him on a friendly visit to the court of his highness the Atalik 
 Ghazi. In my letters marginally noted, the Punjab Government were informed No. 630 p, dated 
 of the preliminary arrangements proposed with a view to comply with the wishes 6th April, 
 of the Atalik Ghazi, and of the instructions issued to Mr. Forsyth, who was No. sap, dated 
 requested to submit through the Lieutenant Governor any additional points on ^ ^" ' 
 which he might deem it desirable to procure further directions. In your Under 
 Secretary's letter. No. 134, dated 28th April, proposals regarding the 
 organization and equipment of the expedition were submitted, and these proposals 
 were all sanctioned in my letter No. 9 a. p., dated 4th May, with exception of 
 a proposed increase to Mr, Forsyth's allowances. 
 
 60. F 3 3. Early 
 
46 CORRESPONDENCE RELATING TO ^ 
 
 3. Early in June information reached his Excellency in 'Council from various 
 quarters that disturbances, the exact nature of which was unknown, had broken 
 out in the territories of the Atalik Glsazi. . His Excellency in Council, therefore^ 
 deemed it necessary, as you were informed in my letter No. 936 P., dated 7th 
 June, that Mr. Forsyth should make every exertion to find out the exact position 
 of affairs in Yarkund, and that he should receive additional instructions as 
 follows ; ^"^ first, that, unless he is satisfied that a general state of peace similar to 
 that which is said to have prevailed in Yarkund up to the date of his departure 
 still exists, he is to abandon at once his intended journey; and, secondly, that 
 he should in that case ipake preparations for his immediate return to India." 
 
 4. Mr. Forsyth, it was added, is fully aware that his deputation to Yarkund 
 would never have been undertaken by his Excellency in Council had he not been 
 fully persuaded that a state of complete peace existed throughout the territories 
 ruled by the Atalik Ghazi. 
 
 5. In his original instructions Mr. Forsyth had been told that he was to go to 
 Yarkund merely on a friendly visit to the Atalik Ghazi, and for the sole purpose 
 of opening up and giving impulse to the trade with that country. He was there- 
 fore to be careful to abstain from taking any part in the political questions that 
 might be agitated, or disputes that might arise further than convejdng to the 
 Atalik Ghazi the general advice already given to him by the Viceroy ; viz., that 
 the Atalik Ghazi would best consult the interests of Iris kingdom by a watchful,* 
 just, and vigorous Government, by strengthening the defences of his frontier, 
 and, above all, by abstaining from interference in the political affairs of other 
 states, or from mixing in the quarrels of chiefs or tribes which did not directly 
 concern his own interests. Mr. Forsyth, was, however, to endeavour to obtain 
 the fullest and most reliable information possible regarding the prospects of 
 trade, the Indian staples that are most in demand, the nature and resources of 
 Yarkund and neighbouring countries, their past and present history, and generally 
 information of any kind which he considered of interest. 
 
 6. The instructions of 7th June reached Mr; Forsyth at Srinuggur in Cashmere, 
 and on the 14th June he commenced his march towards Leh. The narrative of 
 the expedition is contained in the interesting and valuable report now received, 
 which will be published in the "-Gazette of India"* for general information. 
 
 7. His Excellency in Council fully approves of Mr. Forsyth's proceedings. 
 The steps which he took both at Srinuggur and at Leh to ascertain the real state 
 of affairs in Yarkund are entirely in accordance with the spirit of his instructions. 
 The - difficulties in the way of obtainingreliable information were in reality 
 insurmountable. Nothing was kno-rtti either at Srinuggur or Leh of the existence 
 of disturbances in Yarkund. It was not indeed likely that anything definite 
 could be known at Leh, as it appears that the Atalik Ghazi left his capital in 
 March, and the only traveller who had reached Leh was Moolla Baki, who left 
 Yarkund about the same time. Dr. Cayley, who had gone to Leh from the 
 Punjab by KuUu and Lahoul, had heard no unfavourable rumours. The two 
 messengers who had been sent on to Shadooila met Mr. Forsyth in the Lokzang 
 valley with the report that all was quiet. It was not until he reached Balakchi 
 close to Shadooila that Mr. Forsyth first heard that the Atalik Ghazi had left his 
 capital many months before, and had gone on a warlike expedition to Oorumtis, 
 about 700 miles distant from Yarkund. 
 
 8. Considering the diflSculties in which Mr. Forsyth was placed by the failure 
 of the local Cashmere authorities to furnish sufficient supplies and carriage for 
 the desert journey which now lay between him and British territory, the urgency 
 of the Yarkund authorities that he should advance, and the assurances given 
 him thai: the Atalik Ghazi had returned to Kashgar from the war, his Excel- 
 lency in Council considers that Mr. Forsyth exercised a wise discretion in 
 going to Yarkund. His proceedings while there, and his determination to return 
 in obedience to his instructions, have the full approval of his Excellency in 
 Council. Due allowance must be made for the great difficulties in which the 
 Dadkhwah of Yarkund was placed by the absence of his sovereign, and for the 
 
 great 
 
 "See Supplement to "Gazette of India," 7 January 1871, pp. 13-63. 
 
MR. mmSYTH'S MISSION TO, YARKAN^. 47 
 
 great responsibility which he took upon himself in permitting the refeurn of the 
 expedition without effecting the interview with the Atalik Ghazi for which it 
 had been sent. To the delicacy and difficulty of .the Dadkhwaii's position are 
 chiefly to be ascribed the obstacles which were* at tirst thrown in the way of 
 the departure of Mr. Forsyth and his party. His Excellency in Council is not 
 surprised at the efforts made by the Governor of Yarkund to "induce the party to* 
 remain, hut there is nothing to indicate that the expedition was unwelcome or 
 that its object was misunderstood. , . * 
 
 9. His Excellency in Council regrets that, owing lo the necessary and protracted 
 absence of the Atalik Ghazi on a distant frontier, the expedition had to return 
 without effecting the main purpose for which it was sent. But he has no reason 
 to be dissatisfied with the measure of success which attended Mr. Porsyth's 
 journey, and he desires that the cordial thanks of Government may be communi- 
 cated to that officer and to those whose services he has brought to notice in his 
 report for their courage and perseverance under difficult^s of no ordinary kind 
 and for the good judgment displayed under trying circumstances. 
 
 10. His Excellency in Council has learnt with satisfaction from your letter 
 No. 385-1293, dated 19th November 1870, that the Maharaja of Cashmere has 
 severely punished the Wuzeer of Ladakh to whose culpable negligence the 
 misfortunes which overtook the party in the desert journey are attributable, and 
 has sentenced him to fine, to a year's imprisonment, and to expulsion from Cash- 
 mere territories. 
 
YAIIKAND (FOR^TH'S MISSION). 
 
 copy or Extracts of Coerespondekce re- 
 lating to the Mission of Mr. Doriglas Forsyth 
 to Yarhand. 
 
 {^Mr. Eastwick.') 
 
 Ordered, by The House of Commons, io be Printed, 
 a8 February 1871. 
 
 {Price 6 d.] 
 
 60. 
 
 Under 6 oz.