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ALBERT R. MANN 
 LIBRARY 
 
 New York State Colleges 
 
 OF 
 
 Agriculture and Home Economics 
 
 AT 
 
 Cornell University 
 
Cornell University 
 Library 
 
 The original of tliis book is in 
 tine Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
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PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
PRACTICAL 
 
 HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 1000 ORIGINAL AND OTHER RECIPES. 
 
 ^^ BY 
 
 E. pURET, 
 
 EX-MANAGER OF THE ST. JAMES' HALL, ETC. ETC. 
 
 LONDON AND NEW YORK: 
 
 FREDERICK WARNE AND CO. 
 
 1891. 
 
PUBLISHER'S PREFACE. 
 
 This is a practical book, by a practical man, written 
 for practical people. It covers the whole range of 
 culinary effort, and gives a wide choice of meals for 
 every day in the year. There is much that is new in 
 it, more especially with regard to the Italian and other 
 provincial dishes. A strong feature is made of soups 
 and boiled meats and other inexpensive preparations, 
 there being not only a good selection, but the distinc- 
 tions being well marked. 'The directions have been 
 carefully revised. They are precise and clear, and 
 there is not a recipe in the book which has not been 
 practically tried and found to be satisfactory. It also 
 contains a number of instructive and valuable re- 
 marks on the different products of this country used 
 in cookery. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 INTRODUCTION — REMARKS ON MEAT IN GPNBEAL, AND SKETCHES 
 
 OF SIDES OR HALVES OE BEEE, VBAL, AND JIUTTON, SHOW- 
 ING JOINTS THEREFROM I 
 
 REMARKS ON NEW ZEALAND MUTTON AND AMERICAN BEEF . . 8 
 
 REMARKS ON BOILED MEAT 9 
 
 WHAT SHOULD BE HYNDT ON THE KITCHEN TABLE AND LARDER. II 
 
 BOUQUET GARNI OR BUNCH OF DHT HERBS 11 
 
 -CARAMEL OR BURNT SUGAR 12 
 
 CHAPTERS 
 
 I. SOUPS — GRAVIES — MACARONI AND PASTE OF ALL DESCRIP 
 
 TIONS — RICE — RISOTTO — AND ORDINARY JELLY 
 
 II. SOUPS FOR CONVALESCENTS AND CHILDREN 
 
 HL SAUCES — MELTED BUTTER — ESSENCES — JELLIES . 
 
 IV. PUREES OF VEGETABLES FOR GARNISHING — EGGS — OMELETS 
 
 —PANADAS — BREADINGS 
 
 V. FORCEMEAT — GARNISHING IN GENERAL— SALPICON 
 
 "VI. FRYING — BATTER PASTE — HOT AND COLD HORS-d'oSUVRES 
 
 Vn. TRIPE — LIGHT ENTRIES — SAUSAGES . 
 
 Vin, BOILED MEAT ... 
 
 FISH AND CRUSTACEANS 
 
 IX. BEEF ... 
 
 X. VEAL ... 
 
 II 
 76 
 80 
 
 108 
 124 
 142 
 
 176 
 igl 
 
 248 
 
viii CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. PAQE 
 
 XI. MOTION — LAMB AND KID 259 
 
 XII. POBK-^HAM — SUCKINO PIG — WILD BOAB . . . . 271 
 XIII. VENISON — HARE — BABBIT 284 
 
 XIV. POCLTBY 289 
 
 XV. GAME 329 
 
 XVL HOT AND COLD MEAT PIES — PUDDINGS — GALANTINES AND 
 
 POTTED GAME 342 
 
 XVII. VEGETABLES— SALADS— SANDWICHES 356 
 
 XVin. PASTE — PASTRY — SWEET DISHES— ICES .... 387 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 INTRODUCTION AND PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 Since cookery was discovered to be a science and classed, 
 as well as cultivated, as an art by epicures of renown, 
 many more or less valuable books have been written on 
 the subject by professional cooks, as well as by amateurs of 
 all descriptions in the mysteries of gastronomy. The aim 
 of these has, no doubt, been to educate the palate and en- 
 lighten the readers as to the different modes of preparing 
 good and tasty food at nominal cost ; but the majority of 
 the books are either copies of others, or have been written 
 with a very limited culinary knowledge ; with few excep- 
 tions, they give neither quantity, measure, nor weight, nor 
 the time needed for following out their numerous and per- 
 plexing recipes, and thus afford but very little help to the 
 uninitiated. 
 
 This frequent want of explicitness in these works, com- 
 bined with the growing taste for novelties, has induced me 
 to offer herein the knowledge I have gathered during an 
 experience of many years ; and in doing so I shall be con- 
 tent if I succeed in simplifying the directions without pro- 
 ducing confusion, and at the same time give in all cases 
 the correct weight and measure, as well as the exact 
 time for cooking each recipe, besides suggesting economical 
 reform in the kitohen and encouraging the use of good and 
 nutritious food. Although steps have of late been taken 
 towards education in culinary knowledge by the so-called 
 
2 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 schools of cookery, there is still plenty of room for improve- 
 ment. Cooking ought to be studied as a science and 
 practised as an art in every young ladies' school, as well 
 as in every home, and for the benefit of the nation at 
 large, I sincerely hope that the day will come when every 
 girl, rick and poor, will have the proper means, and I 
 may say further, be compelled to learn its rudiments, so 
 that when she is her own mistress, she may, in due course, 
 not only be able to give her order in a practical manner, 
 and compose her menus according to her means and fancies, 
 but be able also, if necessary, to cook /or herself, and by so 
 doing be less dependent on her cook. 
 
 Abroad, and especially in France, the culinary art is far 
 better cultivated than it is here. There men as well as 
 women of every station seem to take a pride in the know- 
 ledge of cookery, without in any way interfering with the 
 rights or self-esteem of their cooks ; on the- contrary, the 
 latter are far more attached to their employers, and also 
 more attentive to their duties, well knowing that their 
 services could be dispensed with at any moment, without 
 causing the slightest inconvenience to their mistresses, 
 should they attempt to show such independence and 
 temper as they so often do in this country. 
 
 Having thus far expressed my views on the present 
 knowledge of cookery, I will at once proceed. As our 
 senses were made for our enjoyment, so were the good 
 things in the world. The different products imported into 
 England afford proofs of bounty which it would be unrea- 
 sonable and ungrateful to reject; in fact, it would be a 
 sort of impiety were we not to avail ourselves of them and 
 turn them to their very best account. In endeavouring to 
 bring before the public their proper use, I take the oppor- 
 tunity of advocating a branch of the culinary art which is 
 not so well known as it ought to be, and is consequently 
 
INTRODUCTION. 3 
 
 very little cultivated — I mean the pure Italian cookery. 
 Whoever has travelled through that land of fine art and 
 poetry must have indulged, more or less, in its national 
 dishes, and brought back with him sweet remembrances 
 of its palatable, appetising, and nourishing food. My ex- 
 perience as a restaurant manager arid caterer of long stand- 
 ing enables me to write with acertain amount of authority 
 on this subject, as whenever and wherever I have intro- 
 duced some of those specialities, I have always found that 
 they were appreciated-and relished. Rice and paste of all 
 descriptions, such as macaroni, spaghetti, tagliatelli, vermi- 
 celli, ravioli, &c., &c., play a great part in the ordinary 
 Italian cookery ; and as they are all cheap items, nutritious, 
 wholesome, digestive, and can be prepared in so many dif- 
 ferent ways, it is my intention of expatiating on them, 
 trusting that my efforts- will be appreciated by both the 
 middle and working classes, for whose instruction and 
 benefit this part of the work is more particularly intended. 
 There is an old saying which may be appropriately quoted 
 here ; that " if you have a favour to ask of a man, ask it 
 of him after he has had a good dinner." There is a great 
 deal of truth in this, and I should very much like to im- 
 press its moral on my fair readers, who, if my instructions 
 are properly carried out, will soon discover its truth, and 
 reap the benefit of their industry and culinary knowledge. 
 It is a well-known fact that the Englishman is fond of his 
 home; add to it the comfort and enjoyment of a good 
 dinner, and contentnient, harmony, and happiness will 
 reign supreme in the family; herein lies the great bliss 
 in your married life, as well as your recompense. 
 
 But in order that culinary duties should be properly 
 performed and easily discharged, and at the same time 
 a source of comfort and pleasure to the performers, it is of 
 (;he greatest importance that the kitchen arrangements, 
 
4 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 ventilation and light — combined with the necessary uten- 
 sils and appliances required for cooking successfully (a 
 list of which I give at the end of this work) — should be 
 studied in a more practical manner and provided for with 
 greater liberality than is actually found, even, I am sorry 
 to say, in some of the wealthiest houses of this country. 
 
 Families with limited means are generally very fond of 
 accumulating and shelving innumerable knick-knacks, in 
 their different rooms that are quite worthless for domestic 
 comfort, although very pleasing to the eye as ornaments; 
 but they will disregard and neglect the furnishing of proper 
 stewpans and other appliances, really necessary for provid- 
 ing satisfactorily and successfully for their daily wants. 
 
 Oleanhness is one of the most essential conditions in all 
 cooking operations. Vessels and utensils of every descrip- 
 tion used for such purpose should be kept^the inside even 
 more than the outside — in a constantly bright and pplished 
 state, without which no cooking should ever be attempted. 
 Many failures in sauces and dinners spoiled have been 
 attributed to the want of cleanliness. Copper pans should 
 often be examined, and as soon as they are found to redden 
 inside, should at once be sent to be retinned, as nothing 
 is more unwholesome to the food or prejudicial to the 
 colouring of sauces, &c. , than a badly tinned pan. 
 
 Cleanliness must also be applied to the different dressers, 
 tables, shelves, and sinks, which should be scrubbed daily 
 with soap and boiling water, and then properly rinsed and 
 wiped. The floors of the kitchens, as well as the larder 
 and yard, should also receive their proper attention and be 
 scoured as often as wanted. These recommendations are 
 not to be considered as a luxury but a necessity, and ought 
 to be the fundamental rules in every household. 
 
 Special attention must also be -paid to the hands and 
 nails, and no food touched with them unless perfectly clean. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 5 
 
 The next thing in order, and which is of no less import- 
 ance, is, that you should possess a good drawing kitchener ; 
 keep it clean and free from soot ; make yourself well ac- 
 quainted with the object of its different keys and dampers, 
 so that you be able to regulate the heat in the ovens as 
 wanted ; otherwise all your efforts at cooking and baking 
 will partially be lost. Gas-stoves are simple, clean, and 
 very handy in their way, as far as boiling and roasting is 
 concerned, but will not answer for middle-class families, 
 and therefore I cannot recommend them. French kitch- 
 eners or closed ranges are the best constructed in the 
 world for usefulness and economy of fuel. 
 
 Remarks on Meat in General. 
 
 The knowledge of the quality of meat, as well as the 
 diEferent parts and cuts of the animals, is .absolutely 
 necessary to all who have to cater for the public or buy 
 for their own private use. 
 
 I therefore give sketches of sides or halves of beef, veal, 
 and mutton, showing from which part of the animail each 
 cut comes. 
 
 BEEF. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 By the above sketches it will be seen that the side of 
 beef is divided into fifteen parts, besides the head and tail, 
 viz : — 
 
 I and 2. Leg and shin, for boiling. 
 
 3 and ;^a. The top side and silver side, two distinct cuts ; 
 the former is. used for beef-steaks, and the latter can bo 
 braised, but is generally salted. 
 
 4. Shows aitch-bone, a roasting joint. 
 
 5. Rump, for rump-steak. 
 
 6. Thick flank for beef-steak and braising. 
 
 7 and 7a. Sirloin with fillet or under-cut, the best joint for 
 roasting, and the kidney for stewing. 
 
 8. Fore-ribs, a joint of six ribs for roasting. 
 
 9 and 9a. Middle ribs, a joint of sis ribs, for roasting and 
 stewing, and shoulder for stewing and braising. 
 
 10. Neck, for stewing and boiling. 
 
 1 1. Thin flank, for salting and braising. 
 
 1 2. Brisket, for salting. 
 
 In selecting a piece of beef, see that it is of a bright 
 red colour and not coarse in the grain ; the fat must be 
 of a light yellow appearance, nicely intermixed with the 
 lean and soft to the touch. Its flavour and quality will 
 depend, as a matter of course, entirely on the breed and 
 food of the animal ; but in either case it is advisable that 
 
INTRODUCTION. 7 
 
 a joint should be hung some days in a cool draughty place 
 before cooking. 
 
 Beef of a brown and dull colour, with ikccid fat, but firm 
 and hard to the touch, must be avoided, as these marks are 
 true indications of inferior quality meat. 
 
 VEAL. 
 
 Veal is divided into seven parts, besides the head, tail, 
 and feet — 
 
 1. Leg of veal, from which cushions and scallops are 
 Cut, otherwise called fillets, and is the best part of the 
 veal for braising and stewing. 
 
 2. Loin and kidney, for roasting. 
 
 3. Cutlets, for broiling. 
 
 4. Breast, for stewing and roasting. 
 
 5. Neck, for stewing and boiling. 
 
 6. Shoulder, for stewing and boiling. 
 
 7. Knuckle, for boiling. 
 
 Veal must always be chosen of a light colour; the fat 
 must be perfectly white and transparent. Veal of a 
 reddish tint and lean should be rejected, as it is of an 
 inferior quality. For the same reason avoid coarse flesh 
 and big joints of veal, as these are sure signs that the 
 animal was an old one when killed (see the chapter on 
 veal). 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 MUTTON. 
 
 Mutton is divided in six parts, besides the head and 
 kidneys : — 
 
 1. Leg, for roasting and boiling. 
 
 2. Loin, for chops. 
 
 3. Best neck or cutlets, for broiling and stewing. 
 
 4. Breast, for stewing. 
 
 5. Neck end or scrag, for boiling and stewing. 
 
 6. Shoulder, for roasting. 
 
 The quality of mutton is known by, the same signs as 
 good beef : its flesh must be of a bright red colour, with 
 white transparent fat; in a like manner, prime mutton 
 depends, for quality and flavour, on the breed and feeding ; 
 sheep with black legs and heads yield the best mutton. 
 
 Mutton of a dull red colour, with yellow and opaque fat, 
 is of an inferior quality. 
 
 Remarks on New Zealand Mutton and American 
 Beep. 
 
 There is a general prejudice among the well todo plassep 
 against buying fresh meat imported from America and 
 Australia. This, however, ought not to be, as both are 
 
INTRODUCTION. 9 
 
 equal ill taste and quality to the ordinary English-bred 
 meat ; and if the consumers would only waive their fan- 
 cies, they would soon find that it is a very difficult task 
 to tell one from the other, even amongst would-be con- 
 noisseurs. 
 
 How many hundred legs of New Zealand mutton are 
 sold daily in Great Britain as English, bred and fed, is 
 beyond my power to tell. Suffice it to say, that out of the 
 several thousand carcasses imported weekly into this country 
 from Australia, not the half of that number is sold as such. 
 What becomes of the others ? That is the question ; and if 
 you cannot guess, I am afraid your butcher will not be able 
 to tell you, for the very simple reason that he does not 
 keep it himself — at least so he will say. The same thing 
 applies to Australian and American beef. 
 
 Only first quality New Zealand mutton and American 
 beef should, however, be bought ; and in either case the 
 meat must be hung for a few days in a cool and draughty 
 place, previous to cooking. 
 
 Remarks on Boiled Meat. 
 
 There is also a general idea prevailing in England that 
 boiled meat is not so nutritious as roast meat. This is a 
 great mistake, as it is the only kind of cooking by which 
 you can obtain the full value of your materials, and is 
 not only the most wholesome and easily digested, but the 
 cheapest and most profitable form by which food can be 
 prepared for the working classes, as it has been clearly 
 demonstrated beyond a doubt that the roast joint will lose 
 in weight twice the amount of the boiled one ; and as the 
 broth derived from the latter must also be taken into con- 
 sideratioDj it will at once convince you, I am sure, that 
 
lo PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 this is the most economical kind of cooking. It forms, I 
 may say, part of the daily bill of fare of almost aU classes 
 in other countries. 
 
 Mr. Buckmaster, who has studied this point in a most 
 practical manner, and ought to be considered an authority 
 on the subject, says in his valuable little book on Cookery, 
 that "persons who cook their iFood in water do it more 
 economically, and derive from it a greater amount of 
 nourishment, than those who employ the direct action of 
 heat, as in baking and roasting." I thoroughly agree 
 with him.* 
 
 * To cook satisfactorily by boiling, however, a, slow and steady fire is 
 required, as the cooking cannot be expected to hasten by indiscriminately 
 heaping up fuel; all excess of heat is wasted when the boiling-point is 
 once reached, and the benefit of a progressive cooking lost without expe- 
 diting it. 
 
 But to boil down or reduce gravy and sauces, a brisk fire, producing 
 quick evaporation, is absolutely indispensable ; the contents would lose 
 appearance and flavour if reduced too slowly. It is therefore of the 
 utmost necessity that proper attention should be paid to the different 
 simmering and boiling expressions used, such as gently, very gently, or 
 on a slow fire and a brisk fire, in order to succeed in obtaining the 
 desired effect and taste. 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 SO UPS—GRA VIES— MA CARONI, ETC. 
 
 What Must Always be Handy in thk Kitchen and 
 Larder. 
 
 A SEASONING-BOX, Containing salt, white pepper, pepper- 
 corns, cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, mace, cayenne, and "all- 
 spice, should always be handy on the kitchen-table. A 
 bottle each of olive-oil, white vinegar, and caramel or 
 burnt sugar, a ball of string, and a perforated box of 
 powdered or castor sugar on a shelf. Garlic and shalots in 
 a small drawer by itself; onions in a basket. All fresh 
 vegetables should be kept in a cool place. Tlour, eggs, 
 butter, rice, macaroni, and all paste should be kept in the 
 larder, as well as all tinned preserves, such as peas, French 
 beans, mushrooms, tomato sauce, and truiHes ; also jams, 
 marmalade, syrups, preserved fruits, pistachios, saffron, 
 curry, parmesan cheese, capers, gherkins, vanilla, chocolate, 
 coffee, lemons, orange-flower water, sago, tapioca, semolina, 
 oatmeal, pearl barley, lard, bacon, ham, &c., which should 
 be brought to the kitchen as wanted. The following dry 
 herbs should also be hung in a dry but not too hot place : — 
 Thyme, sage, marjoram, bay-leaves, rosemary, basil, laurel- 
 leaves, chives, and burnet. 
 
 ,,,<As " bouquet garni " * will often be required in the 
 process of cooking, I will give here the proper mode of 
 preparing one, say, for a family of six or eight persons. 
 Take a small handful of parsley weighing about one ounce 
 
 * " Bouquet garni," a banoh or faggot of dry aromatic herbs. 
 
12 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 and wash it clean, add one ounce of thyme, the same weight 
 of bay-leaves and marjoram, and one clove of garlic; roll 
 the dry herbs into the parsley ; fold over each end ; and tie 
 the bundle round with a small string. 
 
 CARAMEL OR BURNT SUGAR. 
 
 ■^Caramel can be prepared in the following manner : — Take 
 a small and very clean stewpan, put one pound of loaf-sugar 
 in it, set the stewpan over the fire ; stir it continually with 
 a wooden spoon till the sugar is thoroughly melted, then 
 boil it very slowly for fifteen minutes, giving it an occasional 
 stir, when the sugar is seen coming to a dark-brown colour ; 
 add gradually one pint and a half of cold water, stirring the 
 while, and letting it again boil slowly for another twenty 
 minutes ; then let it cool, strain and pour it into a clean 
 bottle, which must be kept corked. It will keep thus for 
 years. 
 
 L ORDINARY STOCK. 
 
 Stock or broth is the principal element of good cooking, 
 as well as the foundation of all soups, and of many sauces. 
 No household should be without it ; and as soup is also 
 the first course served at a dinner, I will a:t once proceed 
 with the mode of its preparation. 
 
 In order to study economy, all bones from previously 
 cooked meat should be collected, broken, and put in a stock- 
 pot, together with any skin, gristle, and trimmings of fresh 
 meat, as well as the remnants of cooked chicken and game 
 bones that may be had. Add to these four or five pounds of 
 leg of beef and a knuckle of veal ; cover the lot with cold 
 water, say four quarts, and throw in a tablespoonful of 
 salt ; boil gently for three or four hours, carefully remov- 
 ing all scum and fat from the top with a skimmer at the 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 13 
 
 beginning of the ebullition, otherwise it will partially re- 
 dissolve and spoil the clearness and flavour of the stock; 
 then strain the liquor through a fine sieve into an earthen- 
 ware pan, and remove to a cool place till next day. 
 
 The above stock may be improved a great deal by adding 
 two or three pennyworth of vegetables and ingredients, 
 as in the following recipe, when a broth good enough for 
 soup can be obtained. 
 
 2. BROTH OR CONSOMM^. 
 
 Take five pounds of the shin of beef, tie it with a string 
 to keep it together ; add from one to two pounds of knuckle 
 or leg of veal ; put these into a stock-pot with the stock 
 made out of bones the previous day, to which a quart of 
 cold water can be added. Should there be, however, no 
 ordinary stock made, pour in four quarts of cold water 
 and a tablespoonful of salt; set it over the fire till it 
 nearly boils, when the scum must be removed most care- 
 fully by frequent skimming ; add at intervals about a 
 gill of cold water, which will check the ebullition and 
 help the scum to rise. When the scum is all removed, 
 peel two ordinary-sized onions (not Spanish), stick in 
 each three cloves, and drop them in the stock-pot; wash 
 two leeks and a small head of celery, tie them together; 
 scrape two carrots of average size, slit into four and 
 two inches in length; peel two turnips and cut them 
 into four; and then make a "bouquet garni "- (page 11), 
 and season with a teaspoonful of pepper-corns. These 
 items should all be put in separately, in order to keep 
 the contents of the stock-pot at the same temperature. 
 Skim the liquor for the last time; after which let it 
 simmer gently by the side of the fire for about three 
 hours ; then take the meat out, skim off all the fat, and 
 
14 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 put it by in ■ a basin ; so that, when cold, it can be used 
 for frying or other purposes. 
 
 A small cabbage cut in quarters, properly cleaned, as 
 well as a few potatoes, cut in four and added two hours 
 after the other vegetables, will be an improvement to the 
 broth as well as a garnish to the meat. 
 
 If proper attention is paid to the skimming and simmer- 
 ing of the stopk-pot, the clarifying of the broth will not 
 be required; but should there be a failure in carrying 
 out accordingly the instructions, the best thing to do is 
 to take the whites and shells of three eggs ; crush the 
 shells well in the hands or in a mortar ; mix them with 
 the whites and a quarter of a pint of cold water, whisk 
 these well together in a basin for a few seconds, add 
 half a pint of boiling broth, still beating the mixture, 
 and pour it into the stock-pot j stir the stock briskly till 
 it boils ; then remove the pot by the side of the fire ; 
 let it remain there for a few minutes or till the whites 
 of the eggs rise to the surface ; after which strain care- 
 fully, and the broth will be perfectly clarified. 
 
 Pour some of the broth into a soup-tureen in which some 
 thin slices of toasted bread have been previously placed ; 
 add part of the cooked vegetables from the stock-pot. 
 Nicely shred and serve. ' This is the real j)ot-au-feu, and 
 considered the standard dish in France. 
 
 Should the broth be preferred of a golden colour, pour 
 a few drops only of caramel in a soup-ladle or spoon ; dip 
 it into the soup-tureen and stir three or four times. 
 
 Broth should be strained as follows : — Take an earthen- 
 ware pan or basin of a size large enough to hold the 
 quantity of broth made; lay over it a clean cloth and a 
 fine hair sieve at the top of the cloth, pour on to it the 
 contents of the stock-pot, and remove the strained broth 
 to a cool place free from dust, A piec? of muslin gauze 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 15 
 
 may be placed over it, but never cover it entirely, nor at 
 any time pour hot broth into the cold, as the reaction 
 will turn it sour. 
 
 Stock can be kept fresh and good for several days in 
 cold weather, but during the summer it is advisable to boil 
 it on the second day and every day afterwards. Storms 
 and thunder will also turn broth sour; and to prevent 
 this, you should boil beforehand. 
 
 If any particles of fat remain at the top of the broth, 
 they can easily be removed in a solid state when cold. 
 Blotting or kitchen paper laid on the surface of the broth 
 will also remove all globules of fat. 
 
 Note. — When the broth is properly made it will turn 
 into jelly when cold. 
 
 The boiled beef and veal taken out of the stock-pot 
 will be found delicious if eaten hot with the remainder 
 of the cooked vegetables and gherkins. I mention this 
 because I know of several instances where it has been 
 thrown away for want of knowledge. 
 
 3. ORDINARY FAMILY STOCK. 
 
 Broth made out of beef is always the best ; nevertheless, 
 in country places where that meat can only be had with 
 difficulty, mutton can be substituted, and by so doing make 
 what is generally called mutton broth ; veal may also be 
 added, when the broth will be all the richer. 
 
 Take four pounds of neck or scrag of mutton and two 
 pounds of leg of veal (if no veal, six pounds of mutton), 
 put the meat in a stewpan with one ounce of butter, and 
 brown nicely for about twenty minutes; then pour in three 
 quarts of cold water and add two onions; let the liquor 
 come to the boil slowly. Skim as carefully as in No. 2, 
 then add two turnips cut in quarters, one carrot sliced 
 
1 6 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 in very small dice, and one ounce of pearl barley previously 
 blanched for ten minutes ; let the contents simmer for two 
 hours; after which take the meat out, skim off the fat, 
 then add a little parsley chopped fine, season to taste with 
 salt only, and pour the broth into a soup-tureen with the 
 carrots, turnips, and barley. 
 
 Should some of the meat be desired with the soup, cut in 
 small dice about half a pound of the lean mutton, add it to 
 the soup ; mix well and serve. 
 
 4. ORDINARY STOCK FOR GRAVY AND SAUCES. 
 
 Put into a saucepan six pounds of shin gf beef, two 
 pounds of leg of veal, two carrots sliced, one onion, and 
 half a head of celery cut in two ; brown the lot with two 
 ounces of butter for about twenty minutes j then add three 
 quarts of stock No. i and an old fowl. Boil, and skim 
 in the usual way, then let it simmer gently till the broth 
 is reduced by one-half,' then strain it into a pan. 
 
 To further improve this stock, which will serve after- 
 wards as a foundation to all brown sauces, add a piece of 
 rabbit or an old partridge previously browned either before 
 the fire or in the oven. 
 
 Note. — No salt must be put in this stock. 
 
 5. GRAVY SOUP. 
 
 Put into a stewpan three rashers of bacon, two slices of 
 ham, four pounds of lean beef (silver side or top side is the 
 best), an old fowl, two pounds of leg of veal, two carrots cut 
 in slices, one onion with three cloves stuck in it, half a head 
 of celery, two leeks, two turnips, and a "bouquet garni." 
 Pour in it one quart of No. i stock, reduce it by a sharp 
 boiling of half an hour's duration, often stirring the con- 
 tents with a wooden spoon to prevent burning. Then add 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 17 
 
 four quarts of ff similar stock and boil it gently, when 
 proper attention must be paid to the skimming ; after which 
 draw it by tlie side of the fire and simmer for three hours. 
 Meanwhile take about three pounds of leg of mutton, roast 
 it half through and put it into the stewpan, continue the 
 simmering till the mutton is properly cooked, then take all 
 the meat out; let the broth boil again for a few minutes, 
 add about an ounce of sugar, a glass of sherry, and then 
 strain in the usual way. 
 
 This broth or gravy is very rich, and is generally served 
 plain. 
 
 6. VEAL BROTH. 
 
 Take four pounds of either shoulder or leg of veal; put 
 it in a stewpan with two ounces of good fresh butter, and 
 brown it nicely all round for half an hour. Meantime 
 boil two quarts of water in a saucepan ; put the veal in, 
 together with an onion having two cloves stuck in it, 
 one carrot sliced, two leeks, and about one pound of lean 
 beef cut in slices, which will add strength and taste to the 
 broth ; skim in the usual vva)', add one fowl, and simmer 
 gently for two hours ; then take the meat out, strain the 
 broth, and serve. 
 
 This broth is delicious, and can be recommended to 
 invalids as well as to healthy persons. 
 
 7. CHICKEN BROTH. 
 
 Take two old fowls, killed the previous day, and put 
 'them in a saucepan with two quarts of cold water and 
 about one pound of shin of beef; cut in small pieces, let 
 the liquor boil, skim carefully, then add separately an ' 
 onion with a clove stuck in it, half a head of celery, 
 one carrot, and a " bouquet garni " composed of half the 
 quantity given in the recipe, but no garlic. Then draw 
 
 B 
 
i8 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 the saucepan by the side of the fire and let the broth 
 simmer for two hours and a half or three hours, with the 
 saucepan closely covered. Then take the meat out, clarify 
 the broth if necessary and strain it as in No. 2, taking 
 care to remove all particles of fat before serving. A 
 similar broth can also be made with a turkey, goose, or 
 two ducks J but special care should be" taken with it, as 
 the broth made from either of these birds is heavier, and 
 consequently not so digestible. 
 
 8. RABBIT BROTH PROVENfALE. 
 
 The meat of young rabbits is generally tender ; it con- 
 sequently possesses all the necessary qualities to make an 
 excellent broth, and yields in no way, as far as taste and 
 nourishment are concerned, to broth made out of chicken. 
 
 Take two young rabbits, skin and. clean them properly ; 
 cut into quarters and place in a stewpan with four table- 
 spoonfuls of olive-oil, a clove of garlic minced fine, two 
 rashers of bacon, one .carrot, two onions, two leeks, and 
 half a head of celery, all sliced as in No. 2. Add a 
 "bouquet garni," and brown the lot for about fifteen 
 minutes, stirring meanwhile with a wooden spoon to pre- 
 vent burning ; then pour in three quarts of cold water, 
 boil, skim, and simmer for two hours, sprinkle salt and 
 pepper to taste ; strain and serve. A glass of dry white 
 wine will much improve this broth. 
 
 9. PARTRIDGE BROTH. 
 
 Broth made with partridges is both warming and 
 nourishing. 
 
 Put two quarts of cold water into a saucepan, with two 
 old partridges, cleaned and dressed as if for roasting, and 
 two pounds of knuckle of veal ; boil and skim, add a 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 19 
 
 similar quantity of vegetables and " bouquet garni " as in 
 No 2 ; simmer gently for four hours, then strain in the 
 usual way. 
 
 This broth is even preferred for strength and quality 
 to the chicken broth, and can be strongly recommended 
 to weak and convalescent persons, 
 
 10. GAME BROTH A LA CHASSEUR. 
 
 Small game-birds, such as snipe, thr'ushes, quail, larks, 
 &,c., make an excellent broth. Pluck and clean two or 
 three birds of each sort (the more the better), put them 
 into a good-sized stewpan with half a pound of ham cut in 
 small dices, two quarts of cold water, and boil them three 
 Lours. Take the birds out ; add one pint of boiling water 
 to the broth ; season with salt and white pepper to taste, 
 and a little grated nutmeg ; boil for another quarter of an 
 hour. Skim off both fat and scum, and pour into a soup- 
 tureen. 
 
 This broth is rather expensive, but very warming and 
 nutritious. 
 
 11. GAME BROTH. 
 
 Put two ounces of good fresh butter into a saucepan, 
 two carrots, one onion, two leeks, and the head of half a 
 celery, all shred fine ; brown the lot for eight or ten 
 minutes ; then add three partridges, prepared as in No. 9, 
 but from which the fillet must have been previously cut ; 
 an old fowl; and all the bones or meat of cooked game 
 or chicken that may be handy ; pour half a pint of good 
 stock over the-se, reduce it by a gentle simmering for twenty 
 minutes; give it an occasional stir to prevent burning-; 
 then pour over it a glass and a half of sherry ; continue 
 the simmering for a few minutes longer, then add three 
 
20 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 quarts of No. i stock, and let it boil on a good fire for half 
 an hour ; after which draw by the side of the fire, add a 
 " bouquet garni," two cloves, a dozen pepper-corns, and the 
 flank of a hare properly browned; let the broth simmer 
 for two hours and a half, -when the fowl and partridges 
 will be cooked; then take them out, strain the broth 
 nicely, remove all particles of fat ; pour the broth into a. 
 soup-tureen, and serve. 
 
 12. A REFRESHING BROTH. 
 
 Put into a stewpan four pounds of shin of beef, two pounds 
 of knuckle of veal, and an old fowl ; brown these in two 
 ounces of butter for twenty minutes, with two carrots, one 
 turnip, half a head of celery, and an onion, all cut in slices ; 
 also the hearts of four lettuces and half an ounce of 
 chervil; pour the lot into a small stock-pot with three 
 quarts of cold water ;■ cover the stock -pot closely, and make 
 it airtight with a border of paste all round made of flour 
 and water. 
 
 Put the stock-pot into a large saucepan or bain-marie, 
 fill the latter three parts full of boiling water and let it 
 boil for six hours ; adding, as required, boiling water to 
 the bain-marie ; then strain the broth, skim the fat as in 
 No. 2, and serve. 
 
 This broth may be served as beef tea or soup, to weak, 
 fatigued, or consumptive persons, being wholesome, nourish- 
 ing, and refreshing. 
 
 13. HOW TO MAKE BROTH IN A FEW MINUTES. 
 /I 
 
 ^ Mince two pounds of lean beef, half a carrot, a little 
 
 celery, and an onion ; put the lot in a stewpan with three 
 pints of cold water, and salt to taste. Boil, skim, and 
 strain. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 21 
 
 Should there be, however, a wish for this broth to be 
 improved, add at the same time as the other ingredients 
 two ounces of rice or vermicelli in a muslin bag, and when 
 cooked pour the contents of the bag into a soup-tureen with 
 the broth, and serve. 
 
 14. JULIENNE SOUP. 
 
 Slice four carrots of ordinary size so as to leave the middle 
 or heart part out ; shred the other parts into small fillets 
 or strips of about an inch and a half long ; add also in the 
 same manner three turnips, one onion, one head of celery, 
 and four leeks ; dry and mix the lot well together ; put them 
 into a stewpan with one ounce and a half of good fresh 
 butter; fry them to a nice brown colour; then add two 
 branches of endive, a small lettuce, and a little chervil, all 
 shred very fine. Mix well again, and pour two quarts of 
 No. 2 broth, together with six leaves of sorrel previously 
 blanched * and cut small. Boil gently for twenty minutes 
 or until the vegetable^ are perfectly well cooked ; skim 
 carefully ; add about half an ounce of sugar ; salt to taste ; 
 then pour into a soup-tureen with a few small crusts of 
 bread fried in butter, and serve. 
 
 15. SPRING SOUP. 
 
 This soup, as its name implies, should only be made 
 when the vegetables are fresh and tender; and to make 
 it a success it is essential that all the following items 
 should be cut fine. This will give a good opportunity to 
 the cook to show his or her skill in shredding and cutting 
 the said vegetables in artistic and decorative forms which 
 are always pleasing to the eye. 
 
 * Scalded or parboiled in salt water. 
 
22 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 Take one carrot, one turnip, the heart of a small 
 cabbage, half a head of celery, about two ounces of French 
 beans, the same quantity each of green peas and aspara- 
 gus-points; boil the lot in salt water (asparagus apart) 
 till properly cooked ; then strain the water and pour the 
 vegetables into a saute-pan in which two or three spoon- 
 fuls of either chicken or beef gravy have already been 
 placed ; simmer for a few minutes ; then add one quart of 
 No 2 broth; salt to taste and two lumps of sugar; boil, 
 pour it into a soup -tureen, and serve. 
 
 16. CONDENSED BROTH OR GLAZE. 
 
 Put into a stock-pot six pounds of shin of beef, eight 
 pounds of leg of veal, an old fowl, two old pigeons, the same 
 quantity of vegetables as in No 2, but first browned with 
 butter; pour enough cold water to cover the whole (no 
 salt nor bouquet). Let it boil ; skim properly ; cover the 
 stock-pot closely, and let it boil gently for six hours; 
 after which, strain through a fine cloth. Return the broth 
 to a stewpan ; add a quart of boiling water, skim off all 
 fat, and simmer till the broth is reduced to a gelatinous 
 substance, stirring meanwhile the contents with a wooden 
 spoon, till the gravy is thick enough to remain attached 
 to the said spoon. Then pour it into an earthenware jar, 
 the inside of which must be previously greased with either 
 fresh butter or fine olive-oil ; let it get cold. Then lay flat 
 at the top a sheet of white paper properly greased or oiled, 
 and cut to the shape of the jar ; then place another cover, 
 made of brown paper, over it, and tie it around with 
 string. Put the jar on a shelf in the larder, as it is now 
 ready for use. When it is wanted, remove the string and 
 paper, and cut with a knife the glaze or condensed broth 
 as required. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 23 
 
 17. BRUNOISE SOUP. 
 
 Cut in small dice tlie red part of three carrots, two 
 turnips, one tead of celery, two leeks, and half an onion. 
 Blanch the lot in boiling salt water; strain through a 
 colander, and pour them into a stewpan with an ounce and 
 a half of fresh butter. Pry gently for five minutes ; then 
 add three pints of No 2 broth ; simmer gently for twenty 
 minutes ; skim and pour the soup into a tureen with a few 
 slices of bread, and serve. 
 
 Two or three spoonfuls of green peas properly blanched 
 can alsa be added with advantage to the other vegetables. 
 
 18. CHICKEN GRAVY. 
 
 Take two quarts of chicken broth and boil in a stewpan. 
 Meantime m.elt a quarter of a pound of fresh butter in 
 another stewpan ; add a similar weight of flour and three 
 ounces of ham cut in slices; fry all to a brown colour; 
 poui? the boiling broth over and stir with a wooden spoon 
 till it comes to the boil ; then draw the stewpan by the 
 side of the fire, and simmer for one hour, stirring the 
 contents about every ten minutes to prevent burning ; 
 after which, skim and pass it through a sieve into a small 
 earthenware pan or basin. 
 
 This gravy must be nearly white, thick and smooth, 
 and can be used either with purees made of chicken or 
 vegetables, or with soups made of yolks of eggs. A 
 similar gravy can also be made with veal broth, and is 
 more economical 
 
 19. GAME GRAVY. 
 
 Take two quarts of game broth, and follow the same 
 recipe as No. 18. This gravy ought to be of a nice brown 
 
24 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 colour, and can be used for strengthening game soups 
 when required, 
 
 20. FISH GRAVY. 
 Brown some flour in butter as in No. i8 ; then add one 
 quart of fish broth ; let it boil, skim, and strain as above. 
 
 21. VEGETABLE GRAVY, 
 
 Proceed in the same way as for fish gravy, 
 
 22. POLISH SOUP, 
 
 Bake eight large potatoes in the oven, peel, and put 
 them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter and one 
 pint of chicken broth. Set the stewpan on the fire, and 
 stir with a wooden spoon until the potatoes are well 
 mashed ; then pass them through a sieve into the stewpan 
 again with three pints of hot chicken broth ; simmer and 
 stir gently for a few minutes. Meantime put in a basin the 
 yolks of four eggs, two ounces of fresh melted butter, half 
 a pint of cream, a little grated nutmeg, salt to taste, a 
 tablespoonful of grated parmesan cheese and the same 
 quantity of powdered sugar ; mix these well together with 
 a whisk, and pour them into a soup-tureen with four 
 spoonfuls of tagliatelli (see Paste) previously cooked in beef 
 gravy; then- pour the thick boiling broth over it, stir 
 till well mixed, and serve. 
 
 23, CONDE SOUP. 
 
 Put two pounds of coloured haricot beans if fresh, 
 or one pound if dry, into a stewpan, together with one 
 partridge, a slice of gammon, and three pints of chicken 
 broth properly seasoned with salt and pepper. Set it to 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 25 
 
 the boil, and after an hour or so of boiling take the 
 partridge and ham out; pass the beans through a sieve 
 by rubbing with a wooden spoon ; put it in the stewpan 
 again with the broth ; let it simmer for five or six minutes 
 longer; then pour it into a soup-tureen with three spoon- 
 fuls of croHtons * fried in butter or quenelles. 
 
 N'ote. — If dry beans are used, take care to soak them in 
 water at least ten hours previous to boiling. 
 
 24. PUR6e CRESSY SOUP. 
 
 Fry for ten minutes in a stewpan with two ounces- of 
 butter, eight ordinary-sized carrots, one onion, and two 
 heads of celery, all shred fine ; also a pint of fresh haricot 
 beans ; after which, add one quart of good broth ; salt and 
 pepper to taste. Let it boil for an hour and a half ; then 
 pass the vegetables through a fine sieve by rubbing in the 
 usual way ; pour the pur^e back to the stewpan with the 
 remainder of the broth, to which another quart must be 
 added, and about an ounce of sugar. Let it again boil gently 
 for half an hour, without forgetting to stir the pur^e ; then 
 pour it into a soup-tureen, with a few slices of bread cut 
 thin. 
 
 If this soup should be required " maigre,'' t use plain 
 water instead of broth, and before serving take the yolks of 
 four eggs and two ounces of butter; whisk these well, and 
 pour it into the soup-tureen as in No. 22. 
 
 25. FISH BROTH. 
 
 Fish with plenty of bone (the flesh of which is generally 
 firm) is the best for soup ; and the greater the variety used 
 
 * Crofttons are slices of orumV>3 of bre.ad cut in small dice and fried 
 in clarified butter to a nice golden colour, 
 t "iUaigre" means food made without meat of any kind. 
 
26 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 the better the broth. Fry in a stewpan with two ounces 
 of butter until nicely browned, two carrots, one onion, and 
 half a head of celery, all sliced fine ; then add the diiierent 
 sorts of fish previously cleaned and cut into pieces four 
 inches long, with three pints of boiling water; salt and 
 white pepper to taste. Boil fast on a good fire for about 
 forty minutes ; skim carefully all fat and scum from the 
 top, and pass the broth through a fine cloth. 
 
 This broth must be clear and of a. golden colour. Should 
 it not, however, be so, it can easily be clarified with aboiit a 
 quarter of a pound of uncooked fish (the flesh only) and the 
 whites of two eggs whisked, &c., as in No. 2 broth ; and if 
 wanting in colour, pour a few drops of caramel and stir 
 well before serving. 
 
 26. ANOTHER FISH BROTH. 
 
 Prepare everything as in No. 25; but instead of using 
 plain water, take the water in which any vegetables may 
 have been cooked. (the more vegetables the better), and 
 clarify in the same manner if necessary. 
 
 27. FROG BROTH. 
 
 I know well befoi'ehand the expressions of disgust that 
 will be felt in reading the heading of this broth ; neverthe- 
 less, do not be led astray by an uneducated palate or a 
 prejudiced opinion. Frogs are considered a- delicacy in 
 France, are quite as much appreciated in Italj' and in Ger- 
 many, and are reared on a very large scale in America • 
 therefore, why should they not be cultivated and eaten in 
 Great Britain 1 
 
 The mode of preparing this broth is as follows : — Put two 
 ounces of fresh butter in a stewpan and fry to a nice brown ■ 
 two carrots, two onions, three spring onions if in season, 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 27 
 
 and the head of half a celery, all shred finely; also two 
 pounds of fresh frogs properly skinned and cleaned. When 
 the whole is nicely brown pour three pints of boiling water 
 over it ; salt and white pepper to taste ; boU gently for forty 
 minutes ; then pass the broth through a fine cloth, and serve 
 with a few crodtons fried in butter. 
 
 Whoever partakes of this broth will ask for it again. 
 
 28. FROG PUR^E SOUP. 
 
 Take the flesh of two pounds of frogs, dry nicely with a 
 cloth ; roll the pieces into some flour and fry them slowly 
 in a stewpan with two ounces of butter tiir well done; 
 after which, pound them in a mortar, mixed with half a 
 pint of BSchamel sauce ; then put the mixture into another 
 stewpan ; dilute the puree with a quart of hot frog broth, 
 stir occasionally, and boil for five or six minutes ; then pass 
 it through a sieve and back again to the stewpan, with a 
 little grated nutmeg ; salt and pepper to taste ; add more 
 broth or water if required ; set it to the boil ; pour it into 
 a soup-tureen with crotitons or quenelles, and serve. 
 
 29. CRAYFISH BROTH. 
 
 Brown in butter the same sort and quantity of vegetables 
 as in No. 2 7. Meantime wash well in two waters thirty 
 live crayfish ; place these in a saucepan with half a handful 
 of parsley, two onions, the head of a celery, and two carrots, 
 all shred fine ; pour enough cold water to cover the lot ; 
 add a handful of salt ; cover the saucepan and boil fifteen 
 minutes ; strain the water through a colander, and as soon 
 as the crustaceans are cold take the meat out of the 
 shells with your fingers ; place the meat from the claws 
 and tails on a plate; pound the shells, with the inside 
 residue, in a mortar with two ounces of fresh butter, 
 
2 8 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 and mix it with the fried vegetables; fry this for a few 
 minutes longer; then pour three pints of boiling water 
 over it ; season with salt and pepper ; stir and simmer 
 gently for ten minutes j skim off the butter and place it on 
 a plate apart ; pass the broth through a sieve and let it get 
 cold; then pour it into the stevvpan and boil till reduced by 
 one-third ; after which, strain it through a cloth into a soup- 
 tureen, and serve with the meat off the claws and crayfish- 
 tails, keeping the butter to season sauces when required.. 
 
 30. VEGETABLE BROTH. 
 
 Clean and scrape four carrots; peel six turnips, three 
 leeks, three onions, and two small heads of celery; slice 
 the lot in fours and sixes, and brown them in a stewpan 
 with three ounces of fresh butter, first the onions and leeks, 
 and afterwards the other vegetables; and when all are 
 nicely coloured add about an ounce of sugar, half a pint 
 of boiling water, and salt to taste. Cover the stewpan and 
 let simmer for ten minutes; then pour in three pints of 
 boiling water ; add a handful each of dry mushrooms and 
 peas, which will give it a good flavdur, and boil again 
 gently for half an hour ; then strain through a sieve and a 
 cloth into a soup-tureen in which some croiitons have 
 already been put ; and serve. 
 
 This broth can also be clarified with the whites of three 
 eggs whisked, &c., as usual ; and if preferred, the vegetables 
 can also be served with the broth; in that case do not 
 strain it. 
 
 31. ANOTHER VEGETABLE BROTH. 
 
 Boil for five minutes in plenty of salt water one dozen 
 
 each of new carrots and turnips, four onions, six leeks 
 
 and three heads of celery ; then strain through a colander 
 
 and pour the vegetables into a stock-pot or large stewpan 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 29 
 
 together with two pounds of dry peas; add salt, white 
 pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste; also twelve cloves, 
 three ounces of butter, and three quarts of boiling water. 
 Let the contents boil till the peas are cooked ; then strain 
 the broth through a sieve, and serve with slices of bread 
 fried in butter. 
 
 In this case, as in the previous number, vegetables can be 
 added to the soup-tureen if liked. 
 
 32. HERB SOUP. 
 
 Blanch two lettuces, x>ne handful of sorrel, and a little 
 chervil dried and shred ; place them in a stewpan with 
 half a pint of broth ; simmer for a few minutes ; add one 
 quart of broth, and boil for half an hour ; stir nicely ; add 
 salt and pepper to taste ; pour into a soup-tureen with a 
 few slices of bread, and serve. 
 
 33. CLEAR ASPARAGUS SOUP. 
 
 Cut the green part of a bundle of fifty asparagus, not 
 too large, into points ; boil them in salt water for twelve 
 or fifteen minutes; strain through a colander, and pour 
 them into a stewpan in which a quart of broth ha^ already 
 been set near to the boil ; let the contents simmer for five 
 minutes only ; add salt and pepper to taste, and serve. 
 
 34. CABBAGE SOUP. 
 
 After having cut a cabbage (savoy preferred) in quarters 
 and washed it carefully in salt water, blanch it with the 
 head of a celery, and let it get cold ; then put the pieces 
 into a stewpan with a good slice of ham, a rasher of bacon, 
 and one quart of broth ; boil for forty minutes ; then take 
 the ham and bacon out, add one pint of broth if required ; 
 
39 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 salt and pepper to taste j boil, and pour it into a soup- 
 tureen with some slices of bread. 
 
 This soup can also be made "maigre" by substituting 
 butter for ham and bacon, and water instead of broth ; in 
 that case, soal^ the slices of bread with half a pint of boiling 
 milk in the sbup-tureen before serving. 
 
 35. CABBAGE SOUP, MILANAISE. 
 Fry to a nice colour in a stewpan, with two ounces of 
 butter, half an onion, half a carrot, and half a head of 
 celery, all shred fine ; moisten the whole with a good broth, 
 and boil for ten minutes ; pass this through a sieve ; pour 
 the liquor back into the stewpan, with two tablespoonfuls of 
 tomato sauce, two small savoys cut in fours, after having 
 been blanched and the water squeezed out of them ; also 
 two rashers of bacon cut in dice, one sage-leaf, a little 
 minced parsley, two quarts of broth, and a piece of bacon- 
 lind cut in small dice. Let the contents boil for three- 
 quarters of an hour; add one ounce of grated parmesan 
 cheese ; salt and pepper to taste ; then pour all into a soup- 
 tureen with some slices of bread, and serve with an ounce 
 of grated cheese on a plate apart. 
 
 ^6. TURNIP SOUP. 
 
 Cut six turnips into dice, and brown them in a stewpan 
 with two ounces of butter and a slice. of ham; after which, 
 cook the contents well with a pint of good broth and two 
 spoonfuls of tomato sauce ; boil till done. Then take the ham 
 out, and skim off all the fat. Meantime have ready in a 
 soup-tureen half a dozen slices of bread soaked in one quart- 
 of good boiling broth, a handful each of green peas and 
 asparagus-points (properly cooked apart) ; salt and pepper' 
 to taste ; then pour the turnips with it, mix well, and serve^ 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 31 
 
 37. TURNIP PURINE SOUP. 
 
 Put eight turnips cut in quarters into a stewpam with 
 two spring onions, two heads of celery sliced, two ounces 
 of' fresh butter, half a pint of chicken gravy, one pint of 
 white haricot beans ; salt and pepper to taste ; simmer 
 and stir gently for a few minutes, without browning the 
 contents ; then pour one quart of veal broth over, and boil 
 gently for an hour and a half; pass the vegetables through 
 a sieve by rubbing with a wooden spoon ; return the purte 
 to the stewpan together with the remainder of the broth ; 
 stir well in order to dilute the puree ; add another quart 
 of white broth ; stir again ; add a piece of sugar the size of 
 a walnut ; skim off the fat ; boil it for another half-hour ; 
 give it an occasional stir to prevent burning; then pour it 
 into a soup-tureen with a few crolltons, and serve. 
 
 38. LEEK SOUP. 
 
 Cut six leeks an inch and a half long and sHced into 
 fours ; fry them in a stewpan with one and a half ounce 
 of butter till of a nice brown; then pour one quart of 
 broth on it ; boil for fifteen minutes ; add one tablespoon- 
 ful of gravy; salt and pepper to taste, and serve with 
 croutons. This soup can also be made " maigre " by using 
 water instead of broth ; in that case add two ounces of 
 butter before serving. 
 
 39, MANOR-HOUSE SOUP. 
 
 Put into a stewpan half a pint each of fresh shelled 
 peas, French beans, and haricot beans, the red part of a 
 carrot, one head of celery, one turnip, and two leeks, all 
 cut in the form of almonds ; also twelve shalots, the heart 
 of a small cabbage cut in four, the hearts of two small 
 
32 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 lettuces cut in halves, a few leaves of sorrel, a little chervil, 
 an ounce of sugar, and grated nutmeg ; salt and pepper to 
 taste ; add two quarts of good broth ; Boil for three-quarters 
 of an hour; pour the contents into a soup tureen with a 
 few slices of bread, and serve. 
 
 Jfote. — It is advisable, whenever a soup is made of dif- 
 ferent kinds of vegetables, to add a piece of sugar the size 
 of two walnuts in order to remove the sour taste from the 
 broth which is invariably given by vegetables. 
 
 40. GREEN PEA SOUP. 
 
 Boil in plenty of salt water two pounds of fresh shelled 
 peas (the larger the better) ; meantime blanch apart the 
 hearts of two lettuces cut in quarters and a few leaves of 
 sorrel ; dry well and place these in a stewpan with half a 
 pint of gravy ; simmer till the lettuces are nicely glazed and 
 the gravy nearly reduced ; then add three pints of good 
 broth, and set it to the boil. When the peas are properly 
 done strain the water through a colander ; throw the peas 
 into the stewpan with the broth; add a small piece of 
 sugar ; skim, set to the boil, and serve with croutons fried 
 in butter. 
 
 41. NEW CARROT SOUP. 
 
 Cut in dice twelve fresh can-ots; blanch them in the 
 usual way, strain the water through a colander, and let 
 them cool ; meantime pour one quart of good broth into 
 a stewpan with a piece of sugar ; set it to the boil ; and 
 when the carrots are quite cold add them to the broth, 
 together with salt, pepper, and a little grated nutmeg to 
 taste ; boil till the carrots are done, and serve with a few 
 slices of bread fried in butter. 
 
 This soup can also be made "maigre;" in that case, boir 
 the carrots with half milk, half water, and add two ounces 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 33 
 
 of butter before serving. This broth is very refreshing, 
 and strongly recommended to persons suffering with jaun- 
 dice, having cured the writer when a boy. 
 
 42. LETTUCE SOUP. 
 
 Blanch in the usual way six or eight lettuces ; dip them 
 afterwards in cold water ; press and get them quite dry ; 
 put each separately into a saufr6-pan in which has already 
 been placed a slice of ham, a bay-leaf, a little thyme, 
 half an onion with a clove stuck in it, and half a carrot 
 sliced ; moisten the contents with a good broth ; cover the 
 saute-pan and let simmer till the lettuces are nicely glazed ; 
 then add one quart of broth ; boil till done ; take the 
 lettuces out with a flat strainer, cut them in halves, place 
 in a soup-tureen, strain the broth jsver, and serve with 
 -croutons. 
 
 Half a pint of chicken broth, if handy, -will greatly im- 
 prove this soup. 
 
 43. STUFFED LETTUCE SOUP. 
 
 Blanch the hearts of twelve lettuces cut in halves ; dip 
 them in cold water and squeeze them well j place after- 
 wards these lettuces separately on a board ; lay on each a 
 spoonful of stuffing composed of quenelles of chicken with 
 a little chervil minced fine. Fold the lettuces in oblong 
 shape, so as to enclose the stuffing ; transfer them one by 
 one into a stewpan already containing half a pint of gravy, 
 a slice of ham, and vegetables, as in No. 42. Simmer 
 gently for a few minutes; then add one pint of chicken 
 broth ; let it boil for fifteen or twenty minutes ; place the 
 lettuces one by one into a soup-tureen ; pour the gravy over, 
 after having strained itj together with one quart of boiling 
 broth properly seasoned, and serve. 
 
 c 
 
34 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 44. CLEAR SORREL SOUP. 
 
 Clean and shred about two pounds of sorrel, the hearts of 
 two lettuces, and a little chervil ; fry the lot in a stewpan 
 with two ounces of clarified butter, and pour over it a quart 
 of boiling broth, with a piece of sugkr ; salt and pepper to 
 taste; let boil for twenty minutes; skim, pour it into a 
 soup-tureen, and serve with croutons fried in butter. 
 
 In order to make this soup " maigre," after having added 
 water instead of broth, take the yolks of four eggs, whisk 
 them well into a basin ; then add half a pint of the boiling 
 soup into it ; stir ; pour another half-pint of broth ; keep 
 stirring ; and just before serving pour this mixture into the 
 stewpan with two ounces of butter ; mix well ; set near to 
 the boil, and serve as No. 43. 
 
 45. THICK SORREL SOUP. 
 
 Put the yolks of six eggs into a basin with an ounco 
 of fresh butter and half a pint of hot broth ; whisk these 
 ■well and pass it through a sieve; after which, pour it 
 gradually into a stew-pan in which a purde of sorrel and 
 other vegetables, as in No. 44, has already been made and 
 diluted in a quart of boiling broth ; stir with a wooden 
 spoon, in order to mix the contents well together; let it 
 come as near as possible to the boil ; add an ounce of butter, 
 salt, pepper, and a little grated nutmeg to taste ; pour it 
 into a soup-tureen, and serve with crofitons. 
 
 46. ENDIVE SOUP. 
 
 Blanch about one pound of endive ; dry, shred, and fry it 
 in a stewpan, with an ounce of fresh, butter ; add one quart 
 of broth, and boil gently for twenty minutes. Meantime 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 35 
 
 whisk the yolks of four eggs with half a pint of the hot 
 broth, and pour it into the stewpan ; mix this well ; add 
 two spoonsful of brown sauce (No. 151) ; salt and pepper to 
 taste, and vfhen nearly boiling serve with either quenelles 
 of chicken or croutons. 
 
 47. CLERMONT SOUP. 
 
 Slice six or eight onions, and brown in a stewpan with 
 two ounces of clarified butter; take them out, dry them 
 properly with a cloth, and pour into another stewpan 
 with a quart of good broth; boil for fifteen or twenty 
 minutes ; then add a little pounded marjoram ; salt and 
 pepper to taste, and serve with crodtons on a plate apart. 
 
 48. POTATO AND CHERVIL PURJ^E SOUP. 
 
 Peel and cut in quarters six large potatoes ; boil them in 
 salt water for five or six minutes, in order to remove all 
 sourness ; strain the water ; pour the potatoes into a stew- 
 pan with one quart of broth, two leeks, and half a head of 
 celery ; boil till the potatoes are quite done j then pass the 
 whole through a sieve; return the puree to the stewpan, 
 with the remainder of the broth ; add some more if re- 
 quired ; also a little grated nutmeg, half a pint of cream, 
 an ounce of fresh butter, and a little blanched chervil 
 chopped very fine; set the stewpan on the fire, stir the 
 contents well, in order to dilute and mix the purfe properly 
 with the last-named ingredients ; and when near the boil 
 pour it in a soup-tureen, and serve with crolltons on a plate 
 apart. 
 
 This soup can be made cheaper by substituting plain 
 water igr broth and milk instead of cream. 
 
36 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 49. CHANTILLY SOUP. 
 
 ' Take one quai-t of lentils ; boil them in salt water till 
 well done ; strain the water and pass the Jentils through a 
 sieve by rubbing; put the pur^e back to the stewpan; add 
 in proportion- one-third of chicken pur6e to one quart and 
 a half of good broth, and set to the boil ; stir occasionally 
 to prevent burning, and serve with croutons or quenelles 
 of chicken. 
 
 Note. — Lentils must be washed and soTiked for at least 
 four hours previous to cooking. 
 
 50. GREEN PEA PURINE SOUP. 
 
 Boil three pints of green peas in plenty of salt water ; 
 meantime fry in a stewpan, with one ounce and a half 
 of butter', one carrot, half an onion, half a head of celery, 
 and two leeks, all shred fine, as well as a slice of ham. 
 When these items are nicely browned add one quart of 
 broth, and let the contents boil for half an hour. 
 
 When the peas are properly cooked strain the water and 
 rub the peas through a sieve in the usual way ; strain also 
 the broth through a fine sieve or cloth, mix the pur^e with 
 it in the stewpan, boil and simmer for a few minutes ; 
 then add a piece of sugar and salt to taste. Skim, and 
 serve with small crofttons fried in butter. 
 
 If dry peas are used, soak them in water the previous 
 night. This soup can be made with water instead of broth, 
 and either can be iraprovedby adding two ounces of cooked 
 rice instead of croiitons. 
 
 51. CHESNUT PURINE SOUP. 
 
 Peel the first skin off about fifty chesnuts and put them 
 in a stewpan with enough boiling water to cover the lot • 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 37 
 
 boil for five or six minutes ; strain the water through, a 
 colander ; take off the second skin and put the chesnuts 
 in the stewpan with one quart and a half of good broth, 
 one bay-leaf, two cloves, and a slice of ham ; boil these 
 for twenty minutes ; strain the broth through a colander 
 into a basin ; throw away the bay-leaf and. cloves ; place 
 the ham with half of the chesnuts apart, and keep hot the 
 other half } pound them through a sieve and put the purde 
 back in the stewpan with the broth ; dilute the pur^e well ; 
 boil and stir to prevent burning ; add salt to taste, with 
 a little grated nutmeg ; and after a few minutes' boiling 
 pour it into a soup-tureen in which the other half of the 
 chesnuts, as well as the ham cut in small dice, have already 
 been deposited, and serve with a few croiitons fried in 
 butter on a plate apart. 
 
 62. LENTIL PURJ^E SOUP. 
 
 Put two pounds of properly soaked lentils into a stewpan , 
 two tablespoonfuls of salt, a small carrot, one onion, one 
 head of celery, two leeks, and two quarts of water; boil 
 gently till the lentils are done, gradually adding during the 
 boiling three gills of cold water to swell the lentils and 
 accelerate their cooking; then strain the water through a 
 colander ; take the vegetables out and pass the lentils only 
 through a sieve, by rubbing in the usual way with a wooden 
 spoon; moisten now and then with a little hot broth to 
 facilitate the passing of the puree. When this is done, 
 return it to the stewpan ; stir well in pouring gradually 
 three pints of boiling broth ; let simmer for about twenty 
 minutes, giving it an occasional stir to prevent burning; 
 then skim, add salt and pepper to taste, and serve with 
 croiitons fried in butter. 
 
 This soup can also be made "maigre" by using the•^vater 
 
38 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 in which the lentils were cooked, instead of broth, and by 
 adding two ounces of butter before serving. 
 
 53. WHITE HARICOT BEANS PUR]fiE SOUP. 
 
 Prepare this puree in the same manner as the lentils or 
 green peas ; but take care not to cook the beans too much, 
 and before pouring the pur^e into the soup-tureen melt an 
 ounce of fresh butter with it, and serve with small cro<itons. 
 
 54. MODENA SOUP. 
 
 Blanch one pound of spinach; dry, shred, and fry it in 
 a stewpan with an ounce of fresh butter ; salt to taste, 
 and stir till nicely glazed ; then let it get cold ; after which, 
 add two eggs and a little grated nutmeg, well beaten to- 
 gether ; pour the lot into a quart of boiling broth ; cover 
 the stewpan with a hot lid, put a shovelful of embers 
 on the top of it, and draw by the side of the fire for a few 
 minutes, during which time the eggs will forpi a kind of 
 smooth crust at the top of the broth ; then pour it into 
 a soup-tureen with crolitons fried in butter, and serve. 
 
 55. TRIPE SOUP MILANAISE. 
 
 Put two pounds of cooked calf's tripe in a saucepan, 
 with three quarts of boiling water ; simmer for ten minutes, 
 and immerse it in cold water ; after a few minutes drain 
 and wipe it with a cloth, then shred it an inch and a half 
 long by a quarter of an inch thick. Meanwhile put in a 
 stewpan one ounce and a half of butter, with the same 
 quantity of fat bacon cut in small dice, and fry a shred 
 onion to a nice brown colour with it ; then add the shred 
 tripe and fry five minutes longer; after which moisten 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 39 
 
 with three pints of broth; simmer gently for two hours } 
 then add a few sprigs of parsley, half a head of celerj', 
 a carrot slit in four, and two leaves of sage, all tied 
 together ; simmer again for another hour ; then skim off 
 the fat, throw away the bouquet, season with salt and 
 pepper ; pour it into a soup-tureen, and serve with croltons 
 and grated cheese on a plate apart, 
 
 56. SOUP A LA ROMAINE. 
 
 Melt three ounces of fresh beef marrow in a small 
 stewpan and pass it through a fine strainer into a basin : 
 break two eggs, beat and mix well with the marrow ; then 
 add five ounces of bread crumbs which must have soaked 
 in a pint of broth for at least half an hour ; season with 
 salt and grated nutmeg to taste ; mix the lot well together, 
 and pour it in a stewpan on the fire to simmer till dry, 
 taking care to stir it the while ; then sprinkle two table- 
 spoonfuls of flour and one of grated cheese ; stir and mix 
 well for two minutes longer, then turn it over on a dish 
 and let it cool ; when cold, turn the compound into small 
 balls, hazelnut size, put them in a quart of boiling broth 
 to poach five minutes ; then pour the contents into a soup- 
 tureen and serve. 
 
 Note. — Butter can be substituted for marrow. 
 
 57. SOUP A LA VENITIENNE. 
 
 Put in a stewpaji the yolks of six eggs with a few drops 
 of lemon juice, and add gradually a quart of cold broth 
 over it, beating the contents meanwhile with a whisk ; 
 then let it boil, giving it an occasional stir, and when 
 near ebullition season with salt and pepper ; pour it into 
 a soup-tureen with a few slices of bread, and serve. 
 
40 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY, 
 
 68. LOMBARDO SOUP. 
 
 Take half a pound of chicken stuffing (see Stuffing), 
 divide it into three equal parts, flatten each surface with 
 a knife and lay smooth on each separate part, first, two 
 tablepoonfuls of BSchamel sauce ; second, four tablespoon- 
 fuls of green peas purde; and on the third, two table- 
 spoonfuls of crayfish or lobster butter, previously mixed 
 with the yolk of an egg well whisked, having by this 
 means three different colours, white, green, and yellow. 
 Meanwhile have three pints of good broth in a stewpan 
 boiling and with a teaspoon form the three compounds 
 in as many little quenelles as there will be teaspoon- 
 fuls; throw them in the boiling broth to poach five 
 minutes by a slow ebullition, then pour into a soup- 
 tureen which already contains two dozen asparagus-points 
 and three tablespoonfuls of green peas separately cooked 
 in salt water, as well as three spoonfuls of croutons fried 
 in crayfish or lobster butter, the tails of about a dozen 
 crayfish, or the tail of half a small lobster cut in very 
 small dice, a gill of sherry ; and serve. 
 
 59. ROSSINI SOUP. 
 
 Clean and dress four quails and cook them in a stewpan 
 with a pint of game broth, or better still, game gravy ; let 
 them get cold In their own liquor ; after which, bone and 
 cut them in small fillets, put them in a soup-tureen with a 
 shred carrot and a few chickens' kidneys previously fried 
 and browned in butter, as well as half a dozen button 
 champignons and same number of truffles cut in the shipe 
 of small olives. Meanwhile have a little game forcemeat 
 (No. 273) diluted with a quart of boiling broth ready, pour 
 it into the soup-tureen, properly seasoned, and serve. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 41 
 
 60. EGG SOUP. 
 
 Whisk eight eggs and mix it well with a pint of cold 
 broth;, then put the liquor into a bain-marie* on a good 
 fire ; boil till the eggs are hard ; then take the compound 
 out with a spoon, and place it in a soup-tureen in whicTi 
 some slices of bread are already soaking in a quart of 
 boiling broth nicely coloured, and serve. 
 
 61. A LA REINE PUR^E SOUP. 
 
 Boil a young turkey or two nice chickens in three quarts 
 of white broth ; when well cooked skim and remove the 
 fat from the birds ; cut all the meat off from the bones and 
 .sinews, mince and pound it well in a mortar ; put the puree 
 in a stewpan with a pint of Blanquette sauce (No 178), 
 dUute the contents with half a pint of white broth, and 
 pass it through a fine sieve into the stewpan again ; 
 boil, and stir. Add a pint of Blanquette sauce if too 
 thin, or white stock if too thick. Season with salt and' 
 pepper, mix well together by stirring with a wooden spoon 
 on the fire, let simmer for five or six minutes, then pour 
 it into a soup-tureen with or without three spoonfuls of 
 well-cooked rice or crofttons fried in butter, and serve. 
 
 62, ARTOIS SOUP. 
 
 Make a puree of green peas (No. 50) ; meanwhile fry in 
 a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, a handful of crodtons 
 and about two ounces of pickled ox-tongue cut in small 
 dice ; mix these with the puree when made, boil, stir, and 
 serve. 
 
 * A saucepan put into a krge vessel or a luvger saucepan with boiling 
 water iu it. 
 
42 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 63. NAVARIN SOUP. 
 
 Make a pur^e of green peas as described above ; pour it 
 into a soup-tureen with one dozen small poached quenelles 
 of pheasant, one- dozen pieces of eels boned and fried in 
 butter, the tails of twenty crayfish, and two ounces of 
 green peas cooked in salt water, and serve. 
 
 This is one of the most delicious and best soups that 
 can be put on the table, but it is also one' of the most 
 expensive. 
 
 64. GAME OR CHICKEN FUR^E SOUP. 
 
 Cook all the remnants of game or chicken that may be 
 had in a quart of broth, with vegetables, in proportion, as 
 in other soups; when well done strain the broth into a 
 basin, scrape all the meat from the bones, and pound it 
 in a mortfir with three spoonfuls of cooked rice; put the 
 purde into a stewpan and dilute it with the broth just 
 made; after which, pass the lot through a fine sieve; return 
 it to the stewpan ; add, if required, some more broth, 
 season with salt and pepper, boil, and pour it into a soup- 
 ture^n with croutons fried in butter. 
 
 65. MOCK TURTLE SOUP. 
 
 Bone and blanch for ten minutes the half of a calf's 
 head (which must be fresh and young) ; put it in a lar^e 
 stewpan or stock-pot with a good slice of ham cut in dice, 
 about two pounds. of leg of veal, two carrots, two turnips, 
 two leeks, half a head of celery, an onion with two cloves 
 stuck in it, two shalots and a " bouquet garni," as well as 
 a bay-leaf ; add three quarts of cold broth and boil. Skim 
 properly, and boil for about two hours, or until the calf's 
 head is well cooked and made tender; then strain the 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 43 
 
 broth into a stewpan, put the calf's head apart on a dish, 
 and let the broth boil. Meantime brown two ounces of 
 flour with one ounce of butter in a small stewpan ; stir 
 well with a wooden spoon,- and when of a dark-brown 
 colour pour gradually over it a quart of the boiling broth, 
 stirring the while ; and when properly mixed pour it back 
 with the other broth, stir it well, and boU for a few 
 minutes longer ; skim off all the fat and scum ; add two 
 glasses of sherry, the juice of a lemon, salt and pepper 
 to taste. Cut part of the calf's head into small dice, put 
 these into a soup-tureen, pour the soup over it, and serve. 
 
 This soup is also made clear; in that case no flour is 
 needed. In other respects, proceed as above ; but especial 
 care should be paid to the clarifying of the broth before 
 serving. 
 
 66. OX-TAIL SOUP. 
 
 Out at the different joints two ox-tails, go that the pieces 
 are as nearly as possible of the same size ; soak them after- 
 wards in cold salt water for about an hour or two to remove 
 the blood, then wipe the pieces with a cloth and fry them 
 in a stewpan with two ounces of butter to a nice brown ; 
 after which, add two quarts of stock, an onion with two 
 cloves, and a "bouquet garni." JBoil, skim, and simmer 
 for three or four hours, or until the pieces of ox-tail 
 are well cooked. Meantime cut a carrot and a turnip 
 in small dice, shred an onion very fine, fry these in a 
 stewpan with one ounce of butter till nicely browned, then 
 moisten with a little broth, and simmer till well done. 
 When the pieces of ox-tail are properly cooked skim off 
 the fat, and pour the meat and broth into the soup-tureen 
 with the vegetables cooked apart. This can also be made 
 thick by adding flour prepared in the same way as mock 
 turtle (No. 65). 
 
44 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 67. HARE SOUP A LA SUSINOISE. 
 
 Cut in dice of medium size the fillet as well as the most 
 fleshy and tender part of a hare, cook it in a quart of good 
 broth, and when done strain the broth through a fine sieve ; 
 put it back into the stewpan ; add more broth, if required, 
 and boil. Meantime put the pieces of hare into a soup- 
 tureen with four spoonfuls of big haricot beans, one turnip, 
 one carrot, the heart of a small cabbage, and half a head 
 of celery all shred fine, well cooked, and soaked in game 
 gravy ; pour the boiling broth over, and serve. 
 
 68. HARE SOUP (ENGLISH STYLE). 
 
 Out in small parts the half of a hare ; fry the pieces in a 
 stewpan with three ounces of fat bacon cut in dice, and 
 the same quantity of butter; when the pieces of hare are 
 browned let them get cold in the stewpan ; then add two 
 tablespoonfuls of flour, half a bottle of claret, one quart of 
 broth, a small ." bouquet garni," one dozen small button 
 mushrooms, an onion, a little cayenne, two cloves, a little 
 grated nutmeg, and salt to taste. Boil, skim, and simmer 
 for about an hour; after which, take the pieces of hare out, 
 bone them, put the meat back into a clean stewpan with 
 a dozen small quenelles of chicken ; strain the broth in 
 which the hare was cooked over the meat and quenelles, 
 add some more hot broth if required, boil, and serve. 
 
 69. RICE QUENELLES SOUP. 
 
 Prepare a good risotto (see Risotto) with four ounces of 
 rice ; lay it on a dish to get cold. Meanwhile take half a 
 pound -of chicken breast or lean fillet of veal and two ounces 
 of either chicken or calf's liver; hash this fine and brown it 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD. COOKERY. 45 
 
 well in a stewpan, with two ounces of butter ; then pound 
 it in a mortar with the risotto j mix the contents well 
 together with three whisked eggs, a little grated nutmeg, 
 and salt to taste; pass the lot through a sieve into an 
 earthenware pan, moisten with a little boiling broth or 
 water, stir till nicely soft and firm; if too thick add a 
 little bechamel, or if too clear the yolks of a few eggs ; mix 
 well ; then take a teaspoon in each hand, and with them 
 shape the compound into small quenelles, put them in a 
 buttered saute-pan, and ten minutes before serving pour 
 over them a quart of boiling broth, boil for six or eight 
 minutes before pouring it into a soup-tureen, and serve. 
 
 70. VEGETABLE QUENELLES SOUP, 
 
 Boil three pints of green peas in plenty of salt water and 
 a little mint ; when well cooked strain the water, put the 
 peas in a stewpan, and mix them well with an ounce of 
 fresh butter, a spoonful of Bechamel sauce, a little grated 
 cheese and nutmeg, and, salt to taste. Let it get cold ; then 
 proceed to make a dozen quenelles as in No. 69, boil these 
 in the same way, and serve. 
 
 By the same process, quenelles can be made with lentils, 
 white haricot beans, and carrots. 
 
 7L POTATO QUENELLES SOUP. 
 
 Pound in a mortar six ounces of cold potato puree with 
 the boned meat of half a cooked fowl ; add salt to taste, a 
 little grated cheese and nutmeg, two eggs, and the yolks of 
 two more ; mix these well together, and pass it through 
 a sieve. Having thus a thick puiee, turn it into small 
 quenelles, poach these in a quart of boiling broth for 
 fifteen minutes, and serve. 
 
46 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 72. GAME OR CHICKEN QUENELLES SOUP. 
 
 These quenelles are prepared with either game or fowl 
 stuffing (see Stuffing), and when made, boil them, as above 
 in a quart of good broth, and serve. 
 
 73. VENITLAN QUENELLES SOUP. 
 
 Brown in a stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter, a 
 similat quantity of flour, then add one ounce of grated 
 cheese and a gill of good broth; work the contents to a 
 paste (on the fire) with a wooden spoon, then draw the 
 stewpan away from the fire, add the yolks of six eggs, stir 
 again till well mixed, and let it get cold ; then make the 
 quenelles as before ; poach them in a quart of boiling broth 
 for a quarter of an hour, season with salt and pepper, and 
 serve. 
 
 74. GERMAN QUENELLES SOUP. 
 
 Proceed with these quenelles as in the foregoing, with a 
 mixture of six ounces of calf's liver and three ounces of 
 bacon cut in dice, the same quantity of bread crumbs, two 
 ounces of butter, three eggs, and a gill of cream ; pound 
 the lot well together in a mortar, and pass it through a 
 sieve ; make the quenelles and boil them for fifteen minutes 
 in a quart of broth, and serve. 
 
 75. A LA REINE QUENELLES SOUP. 
 
 These quenelles are made with a mixture of ten ounces 
 of either the raw or cooked flesh of a fowl, two ounces of 
 fresh butter, three of potato purte, and the yolks of three 
 eggs ; the whole well pounded, seasoned, and mixed together, 
 and poached in a quart of broth as before. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 47 
 
 76. SWISS POTATO SOUP. 
 
 Peel and boil in salt water one pound of potatoes; let 
 them got cold, then pound them in a mortar with a piece 
 of well-cooked meat hashed fine, with two ounces of fat 
 bacon, one of butter, four eggs, a pinch of pounded 
 aromatic herbs, and salt to taste ; when well pounded and 
 mixed together, turn it into sinall balls the size of small 
 nuts, drop them into a quart of boiling broth to poach for 
 a few minutes, and serve. 
 
 If preferred, these balls may be fried in butter and 
 served in boiling broth. 
 
 77. DAWN SOUP. 
 
 Whisk the j'olks of ten eggs with two ounces of melted 
 fresh butter, two spoonfuls of veloiit^ (No. 153), and a 
 little grated nutmeg. Boil three pints of broth; when 
 boiling, pour the half of it gradually over the egg mix- 
 ture, taking care to stir the while. When properly mixed 
 and diluted, pour the contents back with the other broth 
 over the fire, still stirring ; and as soon as it boils, pass it 
 through a sieve into a soup-tureen ; add a glass of Marsala 
 or sherry, and serve with crofltons fried in butter. 
 
 78. ONION SOUP A LA LYONNAISE. 
 
 Peel four medium-sized onions, shred, and fry them in a 
 stewpan with two ounces of butter till nicely browned ; then 
 sprinkle two tablespoonfuls of flour ; continue frying and 
 stirring for three minutes longer ; after wliich, pour three 
 pints of boiling brotli, season with salt and pepper; stir 
 and mix all well together, and simmer for ten minutes. 
 In the meantime put eight dry or toasted slices of bread 
 
48 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 into a souptureen, with a handful of grated cheese at the 
 top, pour the boiling soup over, sprinkle another handful of 
 grated cheese over the broth, and place the sbup-tureen in 
 a moderately heated oven for a few minutes before serving. 
 
 79. ONION SOUP "MAIGRE." 
 
 Proceed with the frying of the onions and flour as in the 
 previous number. Substitute boiling water for broth, and 
 simmer ten minutes ; whisk the yolks of four eggs in a 
 basin; mix this well together with a pint of the boiling 
 water, and just before serving pour it back into the stew- 
 pan with one ounce and a half of butter; stir well, season 
 with salt, pepper, and a little grated nutmeg, and when 
 nearly boiling pour it into a soup-tureen, garnished (as in 
 No. 78) with bread and cheese, and put in the oven for a 
 few minutes before serving. 
 
 80, SHEEP'S HEAD SOUP. 
 
 Take a sheep's head, split in two, pick the brains out and 
 put them in a basin to steep in cold water ; soak the head 
 in boiling water for five or ten minutes, wash it well, then 
 put it in a stewpan with two quarts of cold water ; boil ; 
 skim it very carefully, then add the same quantity of vege- 
 tables and " bouquet garni " as in No. 2 broth ; simmer 
 for about three hours, put the head on a hot dish, skim off 
 the fat, strain the broth through a sieve, and serve with a 
 few slices of bread and some of the vegetables, or better 
 still, with some pearl barley or rice cooked in a muslin bag 
 with the broth. 
 
 The sheep's head is very good eaten hot with either a 
 shai-p or tomato sauce. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 49 
 
 PiEMAnKS ON Macaroni and Paste of all Descriptions, 
 AND now TO Cook It. 
 
 All pastes such as macaroni, vermicelli, spaghetti, taglia- 
 telli, &c. &c., can be served with broth, and one can always 
 obtain a good soup with them at a few minutes' notice. 
 Likewise paste can also be served as a luxury by dififerent 
 modes of preparation. 
 
 The custom in Italy is that, whenever paste or rice is 
 served as a made dish, it takes the place of soup. 
 
 Although, as I have said before, paste can be served in 
 many different ways, the mode of its cooking is always the 
 same. Amongst the several sorts and qualities imported to 
 this country, those from Naples and Genoa are the best ; 
 and for boiling purposes (that is to say, for soups) those from- 
 the latter place are preferred. The time taken for cooking 
 varies according to the age and size of the paste j vermi- 
 celli from Naples may be cooked in ' iive minutes, while 
 Genoa macaroni (if old) may take half an hour. 
 
 The only waj' of boiling paste is to plunge it in plenty 
 of boiling salt water, and never on any account soak it 
 beforehand. 
 
 As a future guidance in boiling all kinds of paste, I will 
 describe the proper mode of cooking, say, one pound of 
 macaroni. Put three quarts of water and a tablespoonful 
 of salt in an ordinary saucepan, on a good fire. When - 
 the water boils fast, immerse the macaroni, and cover the 
 saucepan for ten minutes ; after this take the lid off and 
 try now and then if the macaroni is cooked by a slight 
 pressure between finger and thumb ; as soon as it yields to 
 the pinch, stop the boiling at once by pouring a pint of 
 cold water into the saucepan ; strain the water througli a 
 
50 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 colander, as the macaroni is now cooked and ready for 
 use. 
 
 Note. — All descriptions of paste should be eaten as soon 
 as cooked. 
 
 81. PLAIN MACARONI SOUP. 
 
 Cut in pieces of about two inches long half a pound cf 
 macaroni cooked and strained as described in the previous 
 remarks, and put it in a soup- tureen, then pour one quart 
 of boiling broth over, and serve with grated cheese apart. 
 
 Shred carrots, haricot beans, french beans, green peas, 
 or any other vegetables can also be added in small 
 quantities to this soup, provided they have been properly 
 cooked in salt water and glazed in a stewpan with good 
 gravy beforehand. 
 
 The mode of preparing other kinds of plain paste soup 
 is exactly the same as this. 
 
 82. MACARONI SOUP (SARDE). 
 
 Peel and slice an onion in small dice ; put these into a 
 stewpan with one ounce and a half of butter and two 
 ounces of leg of veal, also cut in small dice. Fry the lot 
 to a nice brown colour, then add five ripe tomatoes, pre- 
 viously peeled and passed through a sieve; moisten with 
 three pints of good broth ; season with salt and pepper, 
 and boil for half an hour. Meantime cook and strain as 
 described one pound of macaroni ; put it in a stewpan with 
 an ounce of fresh butter and one and a half of grated 
 cheese ; toss this up well together on the fire ; then pour it 
 into the other stewpan with the broth ; stir, and serve. 
 
 This soup can be varied by using other kinds of paste,' 
 and substituting chicken, mutton, or game for veal. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 51 
 
 83. MACARONI SOUP (PALERMO). 
 
 Put into a well buttered stewpan three slices of gammon, 
 one pound of lean beef, the same quantity of knuckle, one 
 fowl, the same quantity of vegetables as if for a soup, and 
 half a pint of good broth ; set the lot to simmer, and when 
 nicely browned all around add three pints of boiling broth ; 
 simmer for one hour and a half, then take the meat and 
 vegetables out, skim, clarify, and strain the broth through 
 a fine cloth, and put it back again into the stewpan by the 
 side of the fire.. Meantime cook one pound of macaroni 
 as indicated, strain and cut it in pieces three inches long, 
 put it into the broth, and boil slowly for a few minutes. 
 Prepare and mix in another stewpan on the fire the yolks 
 of four eggs whisked and passed through a sieve, with a 
 gill of cream, half an ounce of grated cheese, one ounce of 
 butter, salt and a little white pepper to tasta When the 
 butter is melted and the lot well whisked together pour it 
 over with the broth, give it a good stir so as to mix well 
 the contents, and when near the boil pour into a soup- 
 tureen, and serve with grated cheese on a plate apart. 
 
 84. MACARONI SOUP A LA REINE. 
 
 Pound in a mortar the breast of a chicken not too much 
 cooked, mix it with a gill of supreme sauce (No. 188), pass it 
 through a sieve, and keep it hot in a bain-marie. Mean- 
 while cook one pound of macaroni when drained, place 
 it in a saut^-pan with two ounces of fresh butter, three 
 or four spoonfuls of grated cheese, and as many of chicken 
 gravy. Toss this up well in the saut6-pan, then add the 
 hot purde of chicken to it, and toss again so as to mix the lot 
 well together. When this is done and the compound made 
 
52 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 quite hot dress it up on a dish, and serve with one quart 
 or three pints of boiling broth in a soup-tureen apart. 
 
 85. MACARONI SOUP (MONGLAS). 
 
 Cook and strain one pound of macaroni; put it in a 
 saut^-pan with two ounces of fresh butter divided in five 
 or six parts, and placed in as well as over the macaroni ; 
 move the saiit^-pan over a slow fire, sprinkle half an ounce 
 of grated cheese over it, then place in the centre the 
 fleshy part of half a cooked fowl, properly boned and cut 
 in small dice, also a few slices of truffles, two spoonfuls 
 of foie-gras, a few mushrooms sliced fine and slightly 
 seasoned with a veloute sauce (No. 153). When these are 
 nicely warmed up turn it into a hot dish, and serve with 
 three pints of boiling broth in a soup-tureen apart.. 
 
 86. MACARONI SOUP (CARDINALE). 
 
 Prepare (after cooking) the tails of twenty-four or thirty 
 crayfish ; put them apart with a little hot broth in a small 
 stewpan by the side of the fire, to keep them hot. Pound . 
 the shells well and make a crayfish butter (No. 1 69) ; mix 
 three spoonfuls of supreme sauce (No. 188) with two of pur^e 
 of mushrooms. Cook and strain one pound of macaroni, 
 put it in a saut^-pan with the two ounces of crayfish 
 butter just made; add two ounces of grated cheese, the 
 pur6e of mushrooms and supreme sauce, mix well together 
 by tossing it up whilst over the fire, and when properly 
 warmed dish it up on a hot dish ; then strain the crayfish 
 tails and place them nicely one by one over the macaroni 
 as a decorative garnish, and serve with three pints of 
 boiling broth in a soup-tureen apart. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 53 
 
 87. MACARONI SOUP (DOMINICAINE). 
 
 Soak in lukewarm water for a few minutes about three 
 ounces of dry mushrooms ; then drain and put them in a 
 stewpan with one pint of fish broth, an onion, a carrot, 
 a bay-leaf, and a few sprigs of parsley. Simmer these 
 for an hour on a slow fire, strain the broth and return it 
 to the stewpan, save the mushrooms ; soak three ounces 
 of bread crumbs in water, strain and press the water well 
 out of it ; put the bread with the cooked mushrooms into 
 the stewpan with the essence just strained ; let these simmer 
 and dry ; stir, and when well reduced and the bread crumbs 
 as well as the mushrooms are crisp, pass them through a 
 sieve. In the meantime cook and strain one pound of 
 macaroni, put it in a saut^-pan with a gill of olive-oil; add 
 the bread crumbs and a little anchovy paste with it ; keep 
 the saute-pan over the fire, stir the contents well, and 
 when very hot pour it into a soup-tureen with three pints 
 of boiling fish broth properly seasoned. 
 
 This soup is thoroughly " maigre," and is generally served 
 to Roman Catholics on fasting days. 
 
 88. PLAIN MACARONI CHEESE. 
 
 Cook and strain one pound of macaroni ; put two ounces 
 of fresh butter into a stewpan, and when melted pour 
 the macaroni over with three tablespoonfuls of grated 
 cheese ; toss it up till well iaixed and made hot ; season 
 with white pepper onlj', turn it into a hot dish, and serve 
 with a little grated cheese and nutmeg sprinkled on the 
 top. 
 
 89. MACARONI (ITALIAN STYLE). 
 
 Put one pound of cooked and strained macaroni into a 
 stewpan with two ounces of butter, three spoonfuls of 
 
54 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 tomato sauce, and as many of beef gravy ; toss up the lot 
 on the fire so as to mix and warm it well together; then 
 sprinkle two handfuls of grated cheese over it, season with 
 a little white pepper, toss up again and turn it into a hot 
 dish, sprinkle again a little grated cheese on the top, with 
 three tablespoonfuls of good beef gravy, and serve. 
 
 90. MACARONI (CITIZEN STYLE). 
 
 Boil one pound and a half of macaroni ; strain, and put 
 it in a stewpan on the fire with two ounces of butter, 
 one pint of good broth ; salt and pepper to taste. Boil 
 it ; sprinkle over two ounces of grated cheese, add a little 
 more butter, toss it up gently, pour it into a hot dish, 
 sprinkle a little more grated cheese and two or three table- 
 spoonfuls of hot roast-beef gravy or brown sauce over it, 
 and serve. 
 
 91. MACARONI A LA NAPOLITAINE. 
 
 Cut one pound of leg of veal in thin slices of about six 
 inches long by two wide, prepare about a quarter of a pound 
 of veal or chicken stuffing (see Stuffing), and place it with 
 a teaspoon in the centre of .each slice of veal ; roll the slices 
 round so as to enclose the stuffing, flour these and put them 
 in a sautd-pan with two ounces of clarified butter, together 
 with a calf's brains properly blanched and sliced ; fry the 
 lot to a nice coloui-, then moisten with half a pint of good 
 broth or gravy, and simmer till cooked and tender. Mean- 
 time break one pound of macaroni in short pieces, boil and 
 strain in the usual way; put it in a stewpan with half a 
 pint of good broth or gravy, simmer till nearly reduced ; 
 then add a little butter,, two handfuls of grated cheese and 
 a little grated nutmeg ; stir well, pour it into a hot dish 
 with the veal and brains nicely and alternately arranged at 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 55 
 
 the top ; sprinkle the remainder of the gravy out of the 
 sautd-pan over it, and serve with grated cheese apart. 
 
 92. MACARONI AU GRATIN. 
 
 Boil one pound of macaroni in the usual way for a quarter 
 of an hour or so ; strain off the water ; return the macaroni 
 into the saucepan with a pint of milk ; boil till the milk is 
 absorbed, then add an ounce each of grated cheese and 
 butter ; mix well with .the macaroni by shaking the sauce- 
 pan and tossing it up. When well mixed pour it into a 
 gratin-dish, with two ounces more of grated cheese sprinkled 
 over it, as well as a little bread raspings, grated nutmeg, and 
 an ounce of butter divided in five or six pieces. Put the 
 gratin-dish in a well-heated oven till it has attained a nice 
 golden colour and serve. in the gratin-dish. 
 
 If preferred, the completion of the cooking of macaroni 
 can be made in broth instead of milk. 
 
 93. MACARONI (COUNTRY STYLE). 
 
 Cut about two pounds of the round or shoulder of beef 
 in three-inch dice j shred an onion and fry it in a frying- 
 pan with an ounce of butter ; when the onion is of a nice 
 yellow colour, add the pieces of- beef to it and brown them 
 for &ve minutes ; after which, draw the pan away from the 
 fire. Take a good-sized pie-dish and half a pound of un- 
 cooked macaroni ; break this in short pieces and divide it 
 in three parts ; lay one part at the bottom of the pie-dish, 
 nicely buttered ; then put the half of the meat and onions 
 on this layer, season well with gait and pepper ; make 
 another layer of macaroni, place the remainder of the meat 
 and onions on it, season as before, and cover these with 
 the third part of macaroni ; moisten the lot with broth 
 three-parts full, cover the pie-dish closely with a plain 
 
56 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 flour and water paste, or with another pie-dish turned 
 over it, and put it in a well-heated oven for about an hour ; 
 after which, remove the cover, sprinkle a little grated cheese 
 over the top, and serve in the pie-dish. 
 
 Note.^-The same thing can be . done with mutton or 
 veal. 
 
 94. MACARONI MILANAISE. 
 
 Boil one pound of macaroni, strain, and cut it up in 
 three-inch lengths, put it in a stewpan with three ounces 
 of butter, four ounces of grated Gruyfere cheese, a little 
 grated nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, and half a pint 
 of good cream ; set the stewpan over a moderate fire, toss 
 up the whole well together until quite hot, then shake it 
 up for a few minutes to make the cheese spin, and serve. 
 
 95. TAGLIATELLI (HOUSEWIFE STYLE). 
 
 Put one pound of sifted flour on the paste-board, make a 
 well in the centre, break five eggs in it, add a teaspbonful 
 of salt and about an ounce of butter, with enough lukewarm 
 water to melt the salt, work these well together to a firm 
 smooth paste, and finish it by pressing the paste from you 
 with the palms of the hands. Then cut it into four pieces, 
 and roll it with the rolling-pin to the thickness of about the 
 sixteenth part of an inch, let it dry for a little while, then 
 fold each piece in ribbons of about two inches wide, taking 
 care to sprinkle a little flour between the folds ; cut these 
 through crossways into shreds about the eighth of an inch, 
 take them up gently with both hands, to loosen them and 
 prevent their adhering to one another, spread them again 
 on the paste-board, and when all the paste is shred in this 
 way immerse them (a few at a time) in three quarts of boil- 
 ing salt water ; stir, while you drop them in to prevent 
 their getting lumpy, and after five or six minutes of sharp 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 57 
 
 ebullition drain them well on a sieve ; put them afterwards 
 in a stewpan with half a pint of broth, two ounces of butter, 
 salt and pepper to taste; let them simmer for a few minutes ; 
 then add three ounces of grated cheese, two or three spoon- 
 fuls of good beef -gravy, and toss the contents whilst over 
 the fire, so as to mix well together, and serve. 
 
 96. TAGLIATELLI A LA CHASSEUR. 
 
 Prepare a pound of tagliatelli as in No. 95, boil them 
 in salt water for five minutes ; strain them on a sieve 
 and put them in a stewpan on the fire with one pint of 
 game broth, a little grated nutraeg, and a pinch of pepper ; 
 simmer until the broth is reduced ; then add about two 
 ounces of grated cheese, an ounce of butter, and two dozen 
 small quenelles of game previously cooked in gravy ; toss 
 the whole lightly over the fire until the cheese is well 
 mixed with the tagliatelli, then pour the contents into a 
 hot dish, sprinkle two tablespoonfuls of hot game gravy 
 over the paste, and serve! 
 
 Tagliatelli can be prepared and served in every respect 
 like macaroni. 
 
 96a. TAGLIATELLI A LA GENOISE. 
 
 Prepare a pound of tagliatelli as described in No. 95. 
 Pound a small clove of garlic, with three ounces of 
 parmesan cheese and a sprig of green basil, in a mortar ; 
 moisten these gradually with two tablespoonfuls of good 
 salad-oil, and when well pounded put the contents in Sr 
 saute- pan. 
 
 Meanwhile have two ounces of dried mushrooms (cfepes) 
 well soaked in boiling water; strain, dry and chop these 
 very fine, and mix them with the pounded sauce. 
 
 Boil and strain the tagliatelli in the usual way, and put 
 
58 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 it in the saute-pan with the mixture on the fire, to which 
 add two ounces of fresh butter ; toss the contents up till 
 the sauce is properly melted and well mixed with the paste, 
 then serve with some grated parraesan cheese apart. 
 
 97, RAVIOLI A L'lTALIENNE. 
 
 Ravioli is considered by the natives to be one of the 
 best Italian-made dishes in existence ; and to give a fair 
 idea of its repute as well as its national character, I can 
 only compare it to the English Christmas plum-pudding. 
 Its preparation, however, is not so expensive, neither can 
 the making of it be considered difficult or complicated. 
 Make a paste similar to the one for tagliatelli (No. 95), 
 but add half a gill more of lukewarm water to it ; when 
 the paste has been properly worked and rolled in four 
 parts, nearly as thin as a sheet of paper, with the rolling- 
 pin, place them apart on the board. Beat the yolks of 
 three eggs, and with a feather or soft brush moisten one 
 sheet of paste with it, then lay on this (two inches apart) 
 a teaspoonful of chicken force-meat (No. 271). When the 
 sheet is covered in the manner directed with the forcemeat, 
 lay over it one of the sheets of paste . and press this down 
 with the thumb over the outer row of balls, then cut these 
 out with a small fluted cutter into half -moon shape, and 
 place them on a large dish, slightly sprinkled with flour. 
 Proceed with the other two sheets of paste in the same way ; 
 after which, let them dry on the dish for a couple of hours, 
 then drop the lot gently in three quarts of boiling salt 
 water, boil them on a brisk fire for ten minutes, then strain 
 off the water and put the ravioH in a stewpan, in which a 
 quarter of a pound of fresh butter has already been melted 
 to a golden colour ; add to it a pint of good broth, and let 
 it boil for five or six minutes; after which, add two ounces 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 59 
 
 of grated cheese, toss the stewpan gently in order to mix 
 the cheese well -with the ravioli, without, however, breaking 
 them. When properly mixed and the broth nicely reduced, 
 pour them into a dish ; sprinkle a little more grated cheese 
 and three spoonfuls of good hot- beef gravy over, and serve. 
 
 In the same manner, ravioU can be made with veal or 
 game forcemeat, as well as with fish ; in the latter case, a 
 pur^e of spinach, the yolks of four beaten eggs, and an 
 ounce of grated cheese must be added and well mixed with 
 the fish. 
 
 Tomato sauce added at the same time as the broth will 
 also be an improvement. 
 
 98. RAVIOLI A LA ROMAINE. 
 
 Prepare five or six dozen ravioli in the same manner as 
 in the previous number. Boil them in broth for fifteen 
 minutes, then strain and put them in a stewpan containing 
 about a quarter of a pound of fresh mushrooms, properly 
 trimmed and cut into slices, with a similar quantity of 
 cooked ox-tongue cut in small dice, half a pint of white 
 wine, a gill each of Espagnole sauce and game essence. 
 Boil on a brisk fire ; toss the stewpan, so as to mix and 
 warm the contents well together ; and when the sauce is 
 nearly reduced, add two ounces of grated cheese, toss the 
 whole well over the fire, and serve. 
 
 99, GNOCHETTI WITH BUTTER. 
 
 Put a pint of water into a stewpan on the fire with two 
 ounces of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, and a pinch of 
 pepper. When the contents boil draw the stewpan away 
 from the fire, add gradually to it half a pound of semolina 
 or ordinary sifted flour; stir the while with a wooden 
 spoon till it has reached the consistency of a solid paste, 
 
6o PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 then add to it the yolks of four eggs, well beaten, together 
 with three ounces of grated cheese ; mix these well with 
 the paste by tossing it with the wooden spoon, then whisk 
 the whites of the four eggs, already used, to a nice snowy 
 froth, and mix it well with the paste ; turn this out of the 
 stewpan, flatten it on a slab, cut it in small equal dice, and 
 roll these into the shape of small filberts. Meanwhile 
 boil one quart of broth, drop the balls of gnochetti in 
 it, and let them simmer for twenty minutes, then drain 
 and dry them. Butter the inside of an entree dish, divide 
 two ounces of butter into small balls ; put a layer of 
 gnochetti and sprinkle a little grated cheese, a few pieces of 
 butter, and two tablespoonfuls of good beef gravy over it ; 
 continue the layers of gnochetti, butter, grated cheese, and 
 beef gravy to the end, finishing with grated cheese on the 
 top; then put the dish in the oven for five minutes, and 
 serve. 
 
 100. POLENTA* A LA PIEDMONTAISE. 
 
 Boil in a saucepan three pints of broth or water, to 
 which a dessert-spoonful of salt must be added. When 
 the broth ,boils take a strong wooden spoon in your 
 right hand, or better still, the half of a broomstick made 
 for that purpose, which must be about eighteen inches 
 long, and with your left hand drop gradually one pound of 
 polenta flour into the saucepan on the fire ; stir the while, 
 to prevent the flour clotting ; let it boil for half an hour, 
 stirring the paste almost constantly to prevent buriiing ; 
 after which, sprinkle three ounces of. grated cheese over it ; 
 stir the contents well, so as to mix the cheese with the 
 polenta, which will now be firm and detach itself from the 
 border of the pan ; pour the lot into a dish, melt a quarter 
 
 * A flour made from Indian-corn, grown on a large scale and much 
 used in Italy. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 61 
 
 of a pound of butter in a frying-pan to a frothy heat^ 
 pour it over the polenta, and serve. 
 
 101. POLENTA A LA NAPOLITAINE. 
 
 Prepare a "polenta" as in the previous number; when 
 nearly cooked add two ounces of fresh butter and stir well, 
 in order to mix the polenta with the butter. Meanwhile 
 set a well-buttered saute-pan on the fire, with half a dozen 
 slices of fat bacon ; put on these a dozen small birds (such 
 as larks, &c)., properly cleaned, and a couple of bay- 
 leaves.. Fry the birds to a nice colour, then moisten with 
 half a pint of good broth and a glass of white wine ; season 
 with salt and pepper to taste ; cover the saut^-pan, and 
 simmer very gently until the birds are well cooked, basting 
 them and turning as often as required. 
 
 When the polenta is done and the birds ready, dress the 
 former on a dish spread with grated parmesan cheese, place 
 the birds on the top, strain the gravy over, and serve. 
 
 Note. — A few thin slices of truffles or fresh mush- 
 rooms, cooked either in gravy or butter, will improve the 
 " polenta." 
 
 Eemakks on Rice. 
 
 Eice, like paste, can be eaten with as much advantage 
 in soups as in made dishes, and in either case will alwaj'S 
 be found nourishing, appetising, and refreshing. Its cook- 
 ing differs but slightly from paste, as rice can b& boiled in 
 the soup with which it is intended to be served. It. can 
 also be prepared in more than a hundred different ways, 
 and eaten by all classes, from its simplest and cheapest 
 mode of preparation to the most expensive and luxurious 
 made dishes. Rice is good in almost «very soup, can be 
 eaten with any meat, fish, or poultry, is made into various 
 
62 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 puddings, and served as a sweet with any kind of stewed 
 friiit. The best rice to use is the Italian, the grain of 
 which is short and plump. It can be distinguished from 
 others by a slight grey tinge, and, although dearer than 
 the Indian and Egyptian, is, nevertheless, cheaper than 
 either, on account of its swelling propensity and nourishing 
 properties, which are not possessed by others to the same 
 extent. Never attempt to make a "risotto" with a long 
 white-grained rice, as you will fail. 
 
 102. PLAIN RICE AND BROTH. 
 
 Pour three pints of good broth into a stewpan, and set it 
 to the boil. Meantime wash in a basin, with" two or three 
 different cold waters, a pint of rice; when the broth is 
 on the boil throw the rice in, boil for about twenty 
 minutes, season with salt and a little pepper, pour into 
 a soup-tureen, and serve with grated cheese on a plate 
 apart. 
 
 Note. — Rice can also be cooked" in plain water, drained, 
 and served with boiling broth, in which case it keeps 
 clearer. 
 
 103. RICE AND CABBAGE SOUP. 
 
 Blanch in salt water for a few minutes the heart of a 
 cabbage cut in eight parts; strain the water through a 
 colander; press the cabbage, and put it back into the 
 stewpan with three pints of cold broth, a small knuckle 
 or ham-bone, and a quarter of a pound of rice, properly 
 washed, as in No. 102 ; boil for twenty-five minutes, season 
 to taste, take the bone or knuckle out, and pour the soup 
 into a soup-tjireen. 
 
 This soup can be made " maigre " by using water instead 
 of broth; in which case add two ounces of butter a few 
 minutes before serving. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 63 
 
 104. RICE AND POTATO SOUP. 
 
 Proceed with the potatoes as for cabbage, described in 
 the previous number, but omit the knuckle or ham-bone. 
 
 105. RICE AND VEGETABLE SOUP. 
 
 All kinds of vegetables are good for this soup, but must 
 first be blanched in boiling salt water for a few minutes 
 and properly dried ; then fry them in a stewpan with 
 butter ; soak them afterwards with good gravy in another 
 stewpan, and boil till cooked. Meantime boil three pints 
 of broth J throw half a pint of rice into it, and after 
 twenty minutes of ebullition mix with the vegetables and 
 gravy, season with salt and pepper, stir, pour into a soup- 
 tureen, and serve with a little grated cheese on a plate 
 apart. 
 
 Macaroni or any other paste can be added to either of 
 the above soups, provided it has been previously cooked 
 apart. 
 
 106. MINESTRONE. 
 
 The minestrone is a real Italian national soup. It is 
 composed of a mixture of vegetables and rice, is very much 
 appreciated and considered as a delicacy by the natives. 
 
 Vegetables used for this soup should be fresh and tender, 
 and the following are generally the most in request. Take 
 the heart of a small cabbage, one carrot, four potatoes, 
 three leeks, and half a head of celery; shred very fine; 
 blanch these separately; strain and fry them in two 
 ounces of butter with half a pint of kidney beans, half a 
 pint of green peas, and a dozen French beans cut in small 
 diamonds ; then take one ounce of fat bacon, mash with a 
 knife-blade the clove of a garlic, and mix it with the bacon, 
 
64 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOJCERY. 
 
 which must ,be minced as fine as a paste ; put it into a 
 stewpan with three pints of broth, ■ boil it with all the 
 vegetables, add one pint of well-washed rice, a slice of 
 bacon-rind cut in small dice, and two mashed fresli 
 tomatoes. Boil for twenty-five minutes, season with salt 
 and pepper, stir well, then pour it into a soup-tureen, and 
 serve with two ounces of grated cheese on a plate apart. 
 
 107. RISOTTO* A LA PI^MONTAISE. , 
 
 Put three pints of good broth into a stewpan; when 
 boiling throw in three-quarters of a pound of nice clean 
 rice ; cook for twenty minutes on a good fire, giving it 
 an occasional stir ; then add two ounces of grated cheese, 
 the same quantity of fresh butter and truffles cut in very 
 thin slices, a little grated nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, 
 mix well together, add a little gravy if too thick, and serve 
 on a hot dish. 
 
 108. RISOTTO MILANAISE. 
 Slice an onion and fry it in a stewpan with an ounce of 
 butter and a little beef marrow till of a nice brown colour ; 
 dilute with a quart of broth ; boil it, strain the broth through 
 a sieve into the stewpan again, and. season with salt and 
 pepper; boil it; then add one pint of rice and a small 
 pinch of saffron ; cook on a good fire for twenty minutes, 
 often stirring the contents with a wooden spoon to prevent 
 burning ; sprinkle two handfuls of grated cheese over it, 
 with a gill of white dry wine; stir and mix well together; 
 boil for another two or three minutes, then draw from the 
 fire, and just before serving add one ounce of fresh butter, 
 divided in five or six parts and put about in the stewpan ; 
 cover with the lid for two or three minutes, then pour it 
 
 * Eisotto is the Italian name for all made rice-dishes. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 65 
 
 into a hot dish with a little more grated cheese sprinkled 
 on the top, and serve. 
 
 109. RISOTTO (ITALIAN STYLE). 
 
 Proceed as above, but omit the saffron ; add four table- 
 spoonfuls of tomato sauce at the same time as the cheese, 
 and serve after having given it a good stirring. 
 
 110. ANOTHER RISOTTO (ITALIAN STYLE). 
 
 Shred fine the red part of a carrot and an onion, cut in 
 small dice a rasher of bacon, fry these in a stewpan with 
 an ounce of butter till of a nice brown colour ; then add 
 the giblets and combs of two fowls chopped fine, fry for a 
 few minutes longer, then moisten with one quart of broth, 
 season with salt and pepper to taste, and add a small pinch 
 of safiron ; boil it on a good fire ; when boiling pour in 
 one pint of clean rice ; stir and boil fast till nearly cooked, 
 then add four tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce and six of 
 grated cheese, stir the contents well together, add half a 
 dozen mushrooms and one truiHe cut in thin slices, stir 
 again to prevent burning, cook for two minutes longer, 
 pour it into a hot dish with a little more grated cheese 
 sprinkled on the top and one ounce of butter divided in 
 five or six pieces and placed at equal distances about the 
 rice ; then place the dish in a moderately heated oven 
 for two minutes, and serve. 
 
 HI. RISOTTO A LA CHARTREUSE. 
 
 Prepare a broth of frogs or of crayfish, and proceed as 
 in the first risotto (Italian style) ; when cooked, pour the 
 rice into a hot dish with pieces of frog's meat, boned and 
 cut in dice, or the crayfish-tails properly mixed with it, 
 as well as a few slices of trufiles. 
 
 £ 
 
66 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 112. RISOTTO (SPANISH STYLE). 
 Put in a stewpan a quarter of a pound of fresh butter 
 with an onion shred fine ; brown this nicely ; then add 
 four tomatoes cut in small slices, previously peeled, together 
 with half a pound of ham cut in small dice ; fry the lot for 
 a few minutes ; then ' pour over one quart of good broth 
 and one pint of rice; boil on a good fire and cover the 
 stewpan for ten- minutes; after which, add half a pint of 
 green peas and the same quantity of asparagus, cut in 
 points and blanched in the usual way ; boil for fifteen 
 minutes longer, giving it an occasional stir to prevent 
 burning, and serve with grated cheese on a plate apart, as 
 well as some boiling broth in a soup- tureen, if wished for. 
 
 113. RISOTTO A LA PORTUGAISE. 
 
 Cook the rice apart in water, strain, and put it into a 
 soup-tureen ; pour over a quart of good boiling broth, 
 mixed with three spoonfuls of tomato sauce and the breast" 
 of a cooked chicken cut in small dice ; and serve with 
 grated cheese on a plate. apart. 
 
 114. RISOTTO A LA TURQUE. 
 
 Put three ounces of fresh butter in a stewpan with a 
 few slices of fat bacon cut in small dice and an onion split 
 across ; fry till the onion has taken a brown, when it must 
 be taken out, and a nice tender fowl cut in quarters put 
 in its place ; season well with salt ; cover the stewpan and 
 let it simmer for forty minutes, giving it an occasional 
 stir ; then moisten it with three pints of broth, and when 
 boiling add one pound of rice; stir well, replace the lid, 
 and boil slowly for half an hour ; after which, dress it on a 
 hot dish, and serve with grated cheese on a plate apart. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 67 
 
 115. RISOTTO A LA PONIATOWSKY. 
 
 Fry in a stewpan witli an ounce of butter a quarter of a 
 pound of gammon cut in small slices ; then add one pint 
 of rice and three pints of broth ; boil on a brisk fire for 
 twenty-five minutes an4 stir often ; take the slices of bacon 
 out, add two dozen oysters .with two spoonfuls of their 
 liquor to it, mix well together, melt an ounce of butter in 
 a frying-pan apart, pour the rice in a hot dish and the 
 melted butter over it ; then serve with a quart of boiling 
 broth in a soup-tureen apart, if desired. 
 
 116. CREAM RICE A LA REALE. 
 Put a fowl and half a knuckle of veal into a stewpan 
 with a carrot ; add half an onion, the quarter of a celery- 
 head, one leek, and two quarts of broth ; boil for an hour 
 and a half, take the meat out, skim and strain the broth 
 through a fine cloth ; pour the half of it into a stewpan 
 of medium size with half a pound of rice, washed in two 
 or three different waters and blanched apart for a few 
 minutes ; let it boil for an hour, stir occasionally with a 
 wooden spoon ; after which, pour in the remainder of the 
 broth; mix well, and pass it through a wire sieve, then 
 through a tammy and back into the stewpan on a good fire 
 till nearly boiling. Meanwhile mix in a basin three spoon- 
 fuls of chicken purte with the same quantity of rice cream ; 
 add gradually to it half a pint more of the cream, stirring 
 the while ; then pour it back to the stewpan with the other 
 rice cream, stir and mix' properly before serving with 
 croiitons fried in butter. 
 
 117. CREAM RICE A LA FRANpAISE. 
 Proceed for this as in No. 116, but add to the vegetables 
 before named a little parsley, which must be taken out 
 
68 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY, 
 
 when cooked ; and just before serving, add half a pint of 
 good cream with an ounce of fresh butter ; mix all well 
 together, and when nearly boiling pour it into a soup- 
 tureen in which a few small quenelles of chicken, properly 
 poached, have already been put. Stir, and serve. 
 
 118. RICE CREAM A LA CHASSEUR. 
 
 Roast a partridge, cut the meat in small dice, and pound 
 it in a mortar ; put the bones and carcass in a quart of 
 chicken broth, boil for, ten minutes, skim, and pass it 
 through a fine cloth ; then put it back into the stewpan 
 on the fire. When boiling, pour half a pound of rice into 
 it and boil for an liour and a quarter ; after which, pass it 
 through a fine wire sieve and tammy. Return the cream 
 to the stewpan on the fire, then mix gradually the pur^e 
 of partridge with it, boil it, give it an occasional stir, and 
 serve with croiitons fried in butter. 
 
 119. RICE CREAM WITH PHEASANT. 
 
 Proceed for this as in the " R^ale," and then add six 
 quenelles of pheasant, well poached, and serve. 
 
 120. RICE AU GRATIN. 
 
 Pour three pints of good broth into a stewpan, and set 
 it on the fire. When boiling, throw in one pound of clean 
 rice, and let it boil for twenty minutes, giving it an occa- 
 sional stir; then season with salt and pepper, add a few 
 allspice, sprinkle two ounces of grated cheese and. a gill of 
 good gravy, mix the contents . well together, and pour it 
 into a pie-dish, the inside of which must be wiell buttered. 
 Sprinkle the top with a few bread-crumbs, making a hole 
 in the centre with a spoon, fill it with chicken stufiing or 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 69 
 
 financiere, place the pie-dish in a moderately heated oven 
 till the top has taken a nice hrown colour and become 
 crisp, and then serve with a little grated cheese on a plate 
 apart, 
 
 121. RISOTTO A LA m6NAG6RE OR HOUSEWIFE STYLE. 
 
 Boil in a saucepan three pints of broth, throw in one 
 pound of rice, boil for twenty minutes, stir occasionally, 
 then add one ounce and a halt of grated cheese, the same 
 quantity of butter, season in the usual way, pour a gill of 
 hot gravy, mix the contents well together, add a few slices 
 of truilfles or fresh mushrooms stewed in butter, pour it 
 into a hot dish ; and serve with a little grated cheese on a 
 plate apart. 
 
 122. RICE WITH MILK. 
 
 Pour three pints of milk into a saucepan, let it boil, 
 throw in one pound of rice, a small piece of sugar, and 
 a i)ay-leaf; boil for twenty minutes, stir in the usual 
 way to prevent burning, and just before serving mix the 
 yoke of an egg and a little grated nutmeg with it. 
 
 123. BISQUE OF CRAYFISH AND RICE. 
 
 This soup is as much recommended for its delicacy as 
 for its excellence, and can be obtained in different ways ; 
 but after long study, the following is, I believe, the best 
 and easiest mode of all for its preparation : — 
 
 Wash in several waters thirty-five or forty live cray- 
 fish of medium size, put them in a saucepan with a handful 
 of salt, a pinch of pepper, a bottle of dry white wine, 
 a " bouquet garni," an onion, oaiTot, and half a head of 
 celery all shred fine; moisten the lot with cold water, 
 
70 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 cover the saucepan and boil on a good fire for about 
 twenty minutes, then strain the broth into a stewpan, let it 
 boil, and pour a quarter of a pound of clean rice into it, 
 which must boil for about an hour. Meantime take the 
 tails of the crayfish out of their shells with your fingers, 
 put them apart on a plate, pound the shells and inside 
 residue in a mortar with two ounces of butter, put the 
 puree in a stewpan with three pints of good broth, salt 
 and pepper to taste, and let it boil for fifteen minutes. 
 After which, strain it through a fine hair sieve, return 
 it to the stewpan, and set by the side of the fire to let 
 the scum rise, when it must be skimmed off. When the 
 rice is properly cooked, strain, and pour it into a mortar 
 with the half of the crayfish-tails, pound the lot nicely, 
 and add it to thicken the broth with the remainder of the 
 crayfish ; boil it ; stir and mix well ; boil for about ten 
 minutes; then pour it into a soup-tureen with a few 
 queneUes of chicken or croiitons fried in butter, and serve. 
 This soup can also be made with crawfish or lobster, 
 but in neither will the delicacy and flavour of the above 
 be found. 
 
 124. RICE AND CHESNUTS. 
 
 Peel and boil one pound of chesnuts as in No. 51. 
 Meantime boil one poujid of rice in three pints of broth. 
 When the chesnuts are cooked, strain and mix them well 
 with the rice, salt and pepper to taste, add two ounces of 
 grated cheese and one ounce of butter divided into four or 
 five pieces, and spread on the rice, cover the stewpan for a 
 few minutes, then sprinkle with a little grated nutmeg, 
 pour it into a hot dish, and serve. 
 
 This dish can be altered by cooking the rice with milk 
 instead of broth, and by adding.half a pint of cream at the 
 same time as the chesnuts. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 71 
 
 125. RISOTTO (GENOA STYLE). 
 
 Put a gill of fine olive-oil into a stewpan with a cai-rot, 
 an onion, a little celery, and one clove of garlic, all minced 
 very fine. Pry the lot till nicely browned, then add one 
 pound of rice, previously blanched in salt water for a few 
 minntes, and strained j fry and stir for five minutes longer, 
 pour three pints of good broth over it, season with salt and 
 pepper to taste, boil for ten minutes on a brisk lire, stir 
 often to prevent burning, then add four tablespoonfuls of 
 tomato sauce, or better still, three fresh tomatoes peeled 
 and cut in small slices ; stir well, and boil for five minutes 
 longer ; after .which, sprinkle over it two ounces of grated 
 cheese and two tablespoonfuls of anchovy butter ; stir well, 
 cover the stewpan ; draw it away from the fire, and after 
 two or three minutes pour it into a hot dish and serve. 
 
 I might go on with more recipes, but, after due con- 
 sideration, I think the number already given will meet 
 the general requirements. On the other hand, it is advis- 
 able to give cooks and amateurs in gastronomy oppor- 
 tunities of showing their ability and power of imagination 
 in cooking fancy dishes of their own invention. 
 
 126. PEARL BARLEY SOUP. 
 
 Put in a saut6-pan one fowl and two pounds of leg of 
 veal, together with two quarts and a half of broth and the 
 usual sorts and quantity of vegetables as for a soup ; let it 
 boil for forty minutes ; take the fowl and veal out, skim, 
 and pass the broth through a fine cloth, return it to the 
 saut^-pan with a quarter of a pound of pearl barley, stir 
 occasionally with a wooden spoon to prevent the barley 
 sticking together ; boil on a slow fire for five hours, then 
 skim ofiE the scum that rises to the surface ; after which, 
 
72 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 add a piece of sugar; and just before serving, dilute jn a 
 basin three tablespoon fuls of chicken pure6 with a pint of 
 broth by stirring ; pour this afterwards in the saut6-p^n, 
 mix it well with the barley, arid serve, properly seasoned. 
 
 127. OYSTER SOUP. 
 
 Blanch two dozen . oysters in their own liquor, to which 
 add a glass of Marsala. When firm take them away from 
 the foam with a small fiat skimmer and place them on a 
 cloth ; draw the stewpan to the side of the fire, and let the 
 liquor deposit and clarify itself. Meanwhile boil three 
 pints of fish broth, to which add as soon as ready the 
 clarified liquor above mentioned, and when boiling draw to 
 the side of the fire and skim. Whisk the yolks of three 
 eggs with two tablespoonfuls of B6chamel sauce, a little 
 grated nutmeg, and one ounce of fresh butter; mix well 
 with the broth in the usual way, pour it into the soup- 
 tureen with the oysters, and serve. 
 
 128. BEER AND WINE SOUP. 
 
 Fry in butter a few small slices of the crumbs of bread, 
 then pour a bottle each of pale ale and red wine with 
 the peel of half a lemon ; shred three cloves and a little 
 cinnamon, and add them to the liquor. Boil for five 
 minutes, and serve. 
 
 129. STURGEON SOUP (ENGLISH STYLE). 
 Cook in good gravy about two pounds of sturgeon ; let 
 it get cold, and cut it in small dice. Meantime boil in a 
 saucepan three pints of broth, into which pour a glass of 
 sherry, Madeira, or port; add the usual seasoning, with 
 a little cayenne and two teaspoonfuls of anchovy butter. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 73 
 
 When boiling pour it into a soup-tureen in which the 
 sturgeon has already been put, add a dozen small beef 
 quenelles and as many glazed mushrooms, and serve. 
 
 130. GOOSE GIBLET SOUP (ENGLSH STYLE), 
 Blanch in the usual way the giblets of a goose ; strain 
 the water through a colander ; out them in dice and fry 
 them in a stewpan with an ounce of butter ; add a glass 
 of %herry or Madeira, and let them simmer till nearly 
 reduced ; then draw the stewpan by the side of the fire. 
 Meantime boil three pints of broth, add one carrot, the 
 half a head of celery, one leek, six pepper-corns, three 
 cloves, and a "bouquet garni;" boil gently for an hour, 
 then pass the broth through a sieve and back to the stew- 
 pan, clarify it with a little raw minced meat, the whites of 
 two eggs, properly whisked and mixed with half a glass 
 of sherry. Put the giblets into a soup-tureen with a 
 few small quenelles of chicken and three tablespoonfuls of 
 Brunoise, pour the boiling broth, when properly clarified, 
 over, and serve. 
 
 131. POACHED EGG SOUP A LA STYRIENNE. 
 Boil in a stewpan three pints of good broth. When 
 boiling sprinkle three ounces of good' semolina flour, a 
 small quantity at a time; keep stirring, to prevent the 
 flour clotting; then poach six or eight new-laid eggs by 
 breaking each separately, and plunge them into some 
 boiling broth set apart for that purpose in a saute-pan; 
 boil for about two minutes, draw the pan away from the 
 fire, take the eggs out one by one with a flat strainer ; lay 
 them carefully on a cloth, trim each nicely round with a 
 knife, and place them in a soup-tureen with half a pound 
 of green peas previously cooked in salt water and two 
 
74 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 tablespooiifuls of parsley blanched and hashed fine ; then 
 pass the broth in which the eggs were poached through a 
 sieve, mix it with the one in which the semolina flour was 
 diluted, stir well, pour slowly into the soup-tureen, and 
 serve with a little grated cheese on a plate apart. , 
 
 132. POACHED EGG SOUP. 
 
 Poach six or eight eggs in boiling salt water as above, 
 but add two spoonfuls of vinegar ; take them out and trim 
 them in the same manner, put them very carefully in a 
 soup-tureen, and pour gently three pints of good boiling 
 broth, nicely clarified, over it, and serve. 
 
 133. CALF'S TAIL SOUP (INDIAN STYLE). 
 
 Cut at the joints two calves' tails, blanch the pieces in 
 boiling salt water, and brown them in a saut6-pan with 
 half a pint of good gravy; after which, soak the lot with 
 broth, let simmer till cooked, then strain the gravy, return 
 it to the saut6-pan and put the pieces of tails in the soup- 
 tureen, whisk the yolks of two eggs and dilute it with the 
 ■gravy in which the pieces of tails were cooked, together 
 with two teaspoonfuls of curry powder, set the saut6-pan 
 on the fire, stir well, and when nearly boiling pour it over 
 the calves' tails with a few chicken quenelles and a quart 
 of good boiling broth, and serve. 
 
 134. SOUP A LA POLONAISE. 
 
 Put in a stewpan the half of a roast fowl, six ounces of 
 gammon cut in thin slices, two pounds of breast of veal, 
 three pints of cold water, and two tablespoonfuls of salt. 
 Boil and skim carefully ; add the usual vegetables as in 
 soup No. 2. When the meat is properly cooked take it 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 75 
 
 out, pass the broth through a fine cloth, return it to the 
 stewpan, and when boiling throw in three ounces of gruel 
 previously cooked in plain water, let it boil, stir well, 
 and pour it into a soup-tureen, with the chicken-breast, 
 a little of the veal, and part of the gammon, all cut in 
 very small dice ; and serve. 
 
 135, COCK A LEEKIE SOUP. 
 
 Boil a chicken in two quarts of water, with salt, pepper, 
 and an onion stuck with two cloves, for forty minutes, 
 taking care to skim off the scum at the proper time ; 
 then strain the broth through a cloth into a stewpan j add 
 a quart "of veal stock and boil. Meanwhile cut the white 
 part of six leeks one inch and a half long, slice these 
 in four, lengthways, blanch them in the usual way, drain 
 the water, and pour the leeks into the broth to cook. 
 Meanwhile cut up the chicken meat, free from bones, 
 skin, and gristle, into small pieces. When the leeks are 
 thoroughly cooked and soft add the pieces of chicken, 
 and let them simmer for another ten minutes, then pour 
 into a soup-tureen after having seasoned to taste ; and 
 serve, 
 
 136. MUTTON BROTH. 
 
 Take three pounds of the scrag end or neck of mutton, 
 cut it into several pieces, wash them in cold water and put 
 them into a stewpan with two quarts of cold spring water ; 
 set the stewpan to boil, and skim the broth well ; then add 
 two turnips cut in slices, a few sprigs each of parsley and 
 green thyme, and a, little salt. After an hour and a half 
 of gentle ebullition, skim off the fat from the surface and 
 strain through a fine sieve into a basin, and keep in a cool 
 place ready for use. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 SOUPS FOR CONVALESCENTS AND CHILDREN. 
 
 137. PLAIN CHICKEN BROTH. 
 
 Cut. a chicken or young fowl into four parts, wash these 
 well in cold water,- and put the pieces in a stewpan with 
 three pints of cold water and a teaspoonful of salt ; boil 
 it, skim it well, then add the heart of a lettuce and a 
 handful of chervil, let it simmer for about an hour, and 
 strain it through a fine cloth into a basin. 
 
 138. SIMPLE PAP. 
 
 Cut in slices some crumb of bread, put them in a stew- 
 pan with enough chicken or veal broth to soak, boil it, pass 
 through a sieve by rubbing, and put it back into the 
 stewpan ; boil it again, add a few pieces of butter each as 
 big as a pea, and serve, 
 
 139. PAP A LA REINE. 
 
 Soak in half a pint of hot broth some slices of the crumb 
 
 of bread, pound in a mortar the meat of half a chicken, 
 
 previously cooked in white broth and boned, mix this with 
 
 the bread and pass it through a sieve, put it back into the 
 
 stewpan, boil it with the quantity of white broth required, 
 
 and serve. 
 
 76 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 77 
 
 140. BREAD RASPINGS SOUP. 
 
 Pound in a mortar one pound of crust of bread, or grate 
 a one-pound loaf ; boil one pint . of broth ; pour in the 
 bread-raspings, a small quantity at a time ; stir well to 
 prevent clotting, and after ten minutes' ebullition draw the 
 stewpan away from the fire, add a few pieces of butter, 
 pass all through a sieve, and serve. 
 
 141. VELVETY SOUP. 
 
 Dilute one tablespoonful of flour with two of milk, boil 
 a cup of broth, and when it boils pour gradually the 
 diluted flour over it, stir continually, boil for a few minutes, 
 and serve with a few croutons fried in butter. 
 
 142. SAGO SOUP, 
 
 "Wash in boiling water, strain and boil in broth, the 
 quantity of sago required, and when it has thickened 
 like a hot jelly it is cooked ; draw it from the iire, add a 
 little butter, and serve. 
 
 Sago can also be cooked with milk, in which case add a 
 piece of sugar. 
 
 143. TAPIOCA SOUP. 
 
 Boil a tablespoonful of tapioca to each cup of broth for 
 ten minutes, then add a little butter, and serve. The same 
 can also be done with milk, and instead of butter add 
 sugar. 
 
 144. POTATO FLOUR SOUP. 
 
 Dilute a tablespoonful of fecula or potato flour with two 
 or three of cold broth, then pour it into a stewpan with a 
 
78 P.RACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 pint of boiling broth, stir this well, and after a few minutes 
 of ebullition serve. 
 
 145. SEMOLINA SODP. 
 
 Boil a pint of good broth ; when boiling pour gradually 
 two tablespoonfuls of semolina into it, stirring it mean- 
 while, and let it boil for half an hour ; add a little butter, 
 and if too thick some boiling broth, stir again, and serve. 
 
 146. RICE FLOUR SOUP. 
 
 Fry in a stewpan with an ounce of butter two table- 
 spoonfuls of rice flour for ten minutes, theli add gradually 
 a pint of milk to it, stir the while to prevent clotting, boil 
 it, and serve. 
 
 147. PASTE SOUP WITH BROTH OR MILK. 
 
 Put in boiling broth or milk two ounces for each person 
 of vermicelli, stars, or any other small pastOj boil for five 
 or six minutes, add a little butter, and serve. 
 
 148, BEEF TEA. 
 
 Take two pounds of the lean part of the round or beef- 
 steak, remove carefully all fat skin and sinew from it, then 
 cut it in small square pieces of about an inch, put these 
 pieces of beef into a stewpan with three pints of cold water 
 and a dessert-spoonful of salt, set the stewpan on the fire, 
 and ,when the contents reaches ebullition skim it in the 
 usual way; then remove the stewpan by the side of the fire, 
 let it simmer for about an hour ; after which, strain th§ 
 broth or beef tea through a fine cloth, and serve. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 79 
 
 149. SNAIL BROTH FOR OBSTINATE COUGHS. 
 
 Take three dozen garden snails, wash them in three or 
 four different waters, then add to them the hind-quarters 
 of two dozen stream frogs, previously skinned ; bruise them 
 together in a mortar ; after which, put these into a stewpan 
 with two turnips finely chopped, a tablespoonful of salt, a 
 pinch of saffron, and three pints of cold water; set the 
 stewpan on the fire, stir the lot with a wooden spoon until 
 the broth begins to boil, then skim it most carefully, and 
 set it by the side of the fire to simmer for half an hour ; 
 after which, the broth must be strained by pressing it 
 through a tammy-cloth into a basin for use. 
 
 This broth, from its soothing qualities, often counteracts 
 successfully the straining effects of a severe and obstinate 
 cough, and alleviates (more than any other culinary pre- 
 paration) the sufferings of consumptive persons. 
 
 150. SIMPLE JELLY. 
 
 Take an old fowl, with one pound of lean beef and two 
 pounds of leg of veal ; cut each in small pieces, put them 
 into a stewpan with three pints of cold water, and salt to 
 taste. Boil them ; skim most carefully, add two carrots 
 and two turnips shred finely; cover the stewpan and 
 boil for three hours ; then pass the broth through a sieve ; 
 press and squeeze well the pieces of meat ; let the broth 
 get cold ; add to it afterwards the white of an egg, 
 properly whisked, with a gill of broth ; set it to the boil 
 again ; stir till it comes to a nice thickness without letting 
 it boil ; then pass through a cloth into an earthenware jar 
 or pan, and remove it to a cool place, when it will become 
 a jelly, and is ready for use. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 REMARKS ON SAUCES, ESSENCES, MELTED 
 BUTTER, AND JELLIES. 
 
 Whatever the cookery may be, it is absolutely neces- 
 sary, even amongst private families, to have certain sauces 
 always at hand, the object of which is to perfect and 
 strengthen, as well as to improve and cdlour, the- different 
 made dishes. Cooking, as I have said before, is an art; 
 therefore it can be compared (if I am not too bold) to 
 painting, inasmuch that, however talented an artist may 
 be, he, can never paint a picture unless he has the proper 
 colours at his command ; but once possessed of the right 
 combinations, he can extend or reduce and alter his -tints 
 according to his taste and ideas. The cook must likewise 
 have the necessary ingredients in order to enable him to 
 produce made dishes both tasty and pleasing to the eye, 
 the latter being always a desirable end in cookery; and 
 although the same sauces may often be in request, it does 
 not follow that the flavour will be uniform, as, the artist 
 cook, like the artist painter, will be be able to exercise his 
 knowledge and talent by manipulating his sauces, and 
 give them the hue required as well as the flavour expected. 
 
 The four principal sauces, which after broth must be 
 considered the foundation of all good and high-class cook- 
 ing, are the Espagnole (brown), Velout^ (fawn, velvety), 
 Bechamel (white), and AUemande (yellow).. 
 
 In order to obtain good sauces it is of the utmost 
 
 importance that the butter should be good and fresh ; 
 
 80 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 8 1 
 
 that the seasoning should be put in proper quantities ; 
 that the liaison (which here means a binding or thickening) 
 be made with the yolks of fresh eggs, well whisked and 
 properly strained ; and that the simmering, as well as the 
 skimming, should have the most careful attention of the 
 cook. Let this be well understood, that in no part of the 
 culinary process is attention and care so much required as 
 in the preparation of sauces, as no remedy will successfully 
 remove the mischief caused by a failure. 
 
 Note, — All the sauces made of different compounds, 
 especially those of butter, should be kept hot in bain-maries, 
 and these even then not more than twenty minutes ; other- 
 wise, on account of their delicacy, they will either turn, 
 get decomposed, or become oily. To remedy this, and 
 bring the butter sauces to their original smoothness, a 
 piece of clean ice as big as a nut should be added to the 
 sauce in summer, or a little cold water in winter, and this 
 should be worked briskly with a spoon by the side of the 
 fire, before serving. 
 
 151. ESPAGNOLE SAUCE. 
 
 To make this sauce it is essential that the broth should 
 be good. 
 
 Prepare a broth as No. 4, then melt in a stewpah two 
 ounces of butter, pour the same quantity of semolina flour, 
 stir well with a wooden spoon till it boils, then draw the 
 stewpan by the side of the fire, and let it simmer for half 
 an hour, often stirring. After this, add gradually some of 
 the hot broth to it, then pour the lot into it, arid set it to 
 the boil, stirring the while, when boiling. Let the fat rise 
 to the. top; skim it properly; then pass the sauce through 
 a tammy sieve; return it to the stewpan; boil it again, 
 and reduce it till it has reached a nice thick, but soft, 
 
82 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 consistency, stirring tlie while to prevent clotting; then 
 pour it into an earthenware pan ; lay a piece of kitchen 
 paper at the top, to remove any remaining particle of fat, 
 and place it in a cool place, as it is now ready for use, 
 and will keep several days. 
 
 152. ESPAGNOLE SAUCE No. 2. 
 
 Butter a stewpan, with an ounce of butter put in it, a 
 shred onion, and about three pounds of leg of veal cut 
 in small slices skinned and the fat removed, also a pound 
 of beef cut in slices, as well as any carcasses of chicken 
 and game that may be had; moisten the lot with half a 
 pint of broth or stock No. i. Boil on a good fire till the 
 broth is reduced by one-half, turn the meat round so as to 
 glaze it of an even brown colour ; when the meat is nicely 
 glazed, draw the stewpan by the side of the. fire, cover it, 
 and let it stand for a few minutes. > After this, pour in 
 three quarts of stock No. i, boil it, skim it in the usual 
 way, and add a " bouquet garni," one carrot shred finely, 
 salt and pepper to taste, then let it simmer till the meat 
 is well done, when it must be taken out and the broth 
 strained through a fine cloth ; return the broth to the 
 stewpan, and set it by the side of the fire. Meantime 
 put three ounces of butter in a small stewpan, and when 
 properly melted pour a similar quantity of semolina flour 
 with it. Stir it well over the fire with a wooden spoon, 
 and simmer it for a quarter of an hour, giving it an 
 occasional stir. Dilute this with some of the broth, and 
 when properly mixed pour the remainder of the broth 
 ever it ; boil it, stir it constantly till boiling, then draw 
 the stewpan to the side of the fire and- let it simmer for 
 two hours j^ skim off the fat and scum as it rises, then 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 83 
 
 strain the sauce through a fine cloth into an earthenware 
 pan, and put by in a cool place for future use. 
 
 These sauces will, in ordinary weather, keep perfectly 
 well and good for four or five days. 
 
 153. VELOUTlS SAUCE, 
 
 Put about two pounds of lean veal, free from skin and 
 fat, into a buttered stewpan, also three slices of ham, half 
 a pint of white stock, two carrots and one onion shred. 
 Simmer the contents very gently, taking care not to colour 
 the meat, and after half an hour moisten with three 
 quarts of veal broth j boil it, skim it, and then draw the 
 stewpan to the side of the fire; add a few shalots, a 
 " bouquet garni," and the cuttings of half a dozen white 
 mushrooms ; simmer till the veal is well done ; take it out 
 and strain the broth through a fine cloth ; put the broth 
 back to the stewpan by the side of the fire. Meantime 
 prepare a mixture of three ounces of butter with the 
 same quantity of semolina flour in a stewpan, as in the 
 Espagnole sauce, but do not brown the flour; dilute this 
 with the white stock or veal broth in the same way as in 
 No. 152, and mix it with the remainder of the stock in the 
 stewpan ; stir constantly till it has reached ebulKtion, let 
 it simmer for two hours, skim off the fat and scum as it 
 rises, give it an occasional stirring, and strain through a 
 tammy sieve into an earthenware pan, and put by in a 
 cool place. 
 
 154. BECHAMEL SAUCE. 
 
 Put in a stewpan six ounces of butter, the same quantity 
 of lean ham cut in thin slices, one pound of lean veal, 
 one carrot, one shalot, a little celery, all shred in the usual - 
 style; also a. bay-leaf, two cloves, a small "bouquet" of 
 
84 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. „ 
 
 thyme and pepper-corn. Set the stewpan on a moderate 
 fire, let it simmer without browning the meat, and when 
 almost dry sprinkle over three ounces of semolina flour, 
 moisten with three pints of chicken broth and one quart 
 of cream, stir and mix well together j boil it, draw the 
 stewpan to the side of the fire, and simmer gently j stir 
 occasionally, and skim in the usual way ; if too thick 
 add a little more broth or cream, and after two hours of 
 simmering strain through a tammy sieve into an earthen- 
 ware pan, as with the other sauces. 
 
 155, ANOTHER MODE OF PREPARING BECHAMEL SAUCE. 
 
 Pour into a stewpan one quart each of Veloute sauce 
 and fresh cream, a small " bouquet garni," and three thin 
 slices of lean ham ; boil these, and stir constantly till the 
 sauce is almost reduced by half, then pass it through a 
 sieve as befora 
 
 156. ALLEMANDE SAUCE. 
 
 Fry in a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, one pound 
 of mushroom trimmings ; when well reduced, moisten this 
 with three pints of Velout6 sauce and one pint of chicken 
 broth ; boil till reduced by one-third ; then add the yolks 
 of six eggs well whisked, stir this for a few seconds, to mix 
 properly with the sauce, boil it again, and pass it through 
 a tammy sieve into a basin. 
 
 157. BUTTER SAUCE, 
 
 Dilute two tablespoonfuls of semolina flour in a stewpan 
 with three ounces of melted butter; add a gill of cold 
 water, a little salt, grated nutmeg, and the Juice of half a 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 85 
 
 lemon ; stir the sauce on the fire till it boils ; then draw 
 the stewpan by the side, add six ounces of butter, mix it 
 well, pour it into a bain-marie, and keep it hot for use. 
 
 Note. — It is absolutely necessary to have good fresh 
 butter to make this sauce, and it is also advisable to make 
 it only when wanted, as, from its particular delicacy, it is 
 liable to get decomposed if left a certain time exposed to 
 heat. 
 
 158. WHITE SAUCE. 
 
 Fry two ounces of bacon with four of beef fat in a 
 stewpan, together with the half of a carrot and a shred 
 onion, a small " bouquet garni," the juice of half a lemon, 
 a few cloves, and a pinch of pepper ; sprinkle a_ spoonful 
 of flour over it, stir it well, then pour three pints of boiling 
 water over it; salt it to taste, and boil for twenty-five 
 minutes ; skim, stir, and pass it through a tammy sieve. 
 
 159. MAtTRE D'HdTEL SAUCE. 
 
 Put in a stewpan three ounces of fresh butter, a spoonful 
 of minced parsley, previously blanched and dried, a little 
 grated nutmeg, white pepper, and the juice of a lemon ; 
 stir the contents well together near the fire, and when the 
 butter becomes of the consistency of thick cream and is 
 near ebullition it is ready to be served. 
 
 160, CLARIFIED BUTTER. 
 
 Put a pound of fresh butter into a stewpan, simmer 
 gently until it is perfectly clear and of a nice golden 
 colour, or till it has finished fizzing, then pass it through 
 a tammy cloth into a basin, let it get cold, then cover and 
 place it in a cool place, ready to be used when wanted. 
 
86 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 161. ANCHOVY BUTTER. 
 
 Wash and bone six anchovies, pound them in a mortar 
 with three ounces of butter, and rub them through a 
 sieve with a wooden spoon. 
 
 162. RAVIGOTE BUTTER. 
 
 Take in equal proportions some parsley, chervil, spring 
 onions, shalots, tarragon, and watercress, blanch the lot for 
 two or three minutes in boiling water, drain and press out 
 the water by twisting it in a cloth, then Shred and pound 
 the mixture in a mortar, with two properly washed and 
 boned anchovies and three ounces of butter, boil it in a 
 little stewpan, stir and mix well, and then pass it through 
 a fine sieve, and store away for future use. 
 
 163. MONTPELLIER BUTTER. 
 
 Blanch, drain, and pound in a mortar the same kinds of 
 herbs as in No. 162, together with six washed and boned 
 anchovies, a small clove of garlic, and the yolks of three 
 eggs boiled hard, half a pound of butter, two tablespoonfuls 
 of olive-oil, one of tarragon vinegar, and salt and pepper 
 to taste. When the whole is properly pounded pass it 
 through a fine sieve. This will be found tasty. 
 
 164. BEURRE NOIR, OR BROWN BUTTER. 
 
 Put in a small saucepan a gill of vinegar with a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, a quarter of that quantity of white pepper, 
 and a bay-leaf ; boil it ; meanwhile put into a frj'ing-pan 
 six ounces of butter to boil till it begins to acquire a dark- 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 87 
 
 brown colour, then add a few leaves of parsley, washed and 
 dried, boil again for a few seconds, then draw it away from 
 the fire altogether ; five minutes after, pass it through a 
 pointed strainer into the saucepan containing the vinegar, 
 which must have been reduced a little in boiling, and pour 
 into a glazed basin for future use. When wanted, this has 
 only to be warmed up, without boiling. 
 
 165. HORSE-RADISH BUTTER. 
 
 Scrape a large horse-radish, or two small ones, pound 
 it in the mortar with a similar quantity of butter, and 
 rub it through a sieve. 
 
 166. TRUFFLE BUTTER. 
 
 Cut and pound in a mortar four or five small truffles 
 together with the half of an anchovy and three ounces of 
 butter ; when the lot is properly pounded and well mixed, 
 rub it through a fine sieve and put it by for future use. 
 
 167. PERIGUEUX BUTTER. 
 
 Cut in thin slices four or five truffles, put these in a 
 small saut^-pan, with two glasses of sherry or Madeira 
 and two pepper-corns ; boil for a few minutes ; let it get 
 cold, then pound it in a mortar with three ounces of 
 butter, and rub through a sieve. 
 
 168. CURRY OR CAYENNE BUTTER. 
 
 Mix on a plate one teaspoonful of curry powder, or as 
 much cayenne pepper as a small pea, with three ounces of 
 butter,, and use it without passing it through a sieve. 
 
eS- PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 169. CRAYFISH AND LOBSTER BUTTER. 
 
 Cook and shell about thirty crayfish, as indicated in 
 No. 123 ; pound the shells and claws in a mortar with 
 half a pound of butter ; put this pur^e in a stewpan on a 
 moderate 'fire, stir occasionally till the butter acquires a 
 nice red colour ; then moisten it with a small cup of 
 boiling water, stir again on the fire, and as soon as it 
 reaches ebullition rub it through a fine sieve into' a basin, 
 let it get cold, and when firm take it out of the basin in 
 one piece, cut off the sediment which will have settled at 
 the bottom, and replace the good part in the basin, to be 
 cut and melted when wanted. 
 
 Note. — This butter should not be kept too long. For 
 lobster butter, proceed in the same way. 
 
 170. ESSENCE OF TRUFFLES. 
 
 Chop fine about a quarter of a pound of truffles, or if 
 you have any trimmings use them instead, place them in 
 a small stewpan with half a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, 
 and a bruised clove of garlic; moisten the lot with a gill of 
 French white wine, let simmer till the liquor is nearly all 
 reduced, then add half a pint of good broth, set to the 
 boil, and simmer for ten minutes longer ; after which; pass 
 it through a fine cloth, by twisting it, into a basin, and 
 put by for use, when it will be found extremely useful 
 for flavouring sauces and stews, in which the flavour of 
 truffles should predominate. 
 
 171. ESSENCE OF MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Peel clean and chop finely half a pound of fresh mush-- 
 rooms, fry them in a stewpan with an ounce of butter and' 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 89 
 
 a little lemon juice for two or three minutes, then moisten 
 with half a pint of white stock, let it simmer for ten 
 minutes, and rub it through a sieve into a basin for use. 
 
 172. ESSENCE OF GAME. 
 
 Chop up the carcasses of winged game left from the 
 previous day's dinner, place them in a stewpan with four 
 shalots, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, a blade of mace, two 
 pinches of pepper, and two ounces of butter. Fry the lot 
 to a light-brown colour, then moisten them with a gill of 
 French white wine, and let them simmer and stir till 
 reduced to a glaze ; then add half a pint of good broth, 
 simmer again for half an hour, skim and strain it through 
 a tammy sieve, and finish it by adding the juice of half a 
 lemon. 
 
 173, ESSENCE OF CHICKEN. 
 
 Chop up the carcasses of two or three fowls ; put them 
 in a saucepan with about one pound of fillet of veal cut 
 in four; moisten this with three pints of chicken broth, 
 add ^n onion with two cloves stuck in, the half of a carrot, 
 and a " bouquet garni ; " simmer for an hour, strain the 
 essence through a fine cloth, by twisting it, into a basin, 
 remove carefully all fat, and put by in a cool place for use. 
 
 174. ESSENCE OF ANCHOVIES. 
 
 Wash, bone, and clean six anchovies ; pound them in a 
 mortar with a tablespoonful of capers and one shalot; put 
 these afterwards into a small stewpan with salt, pepper, a 
 little mace, and two tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup ; 
 simmer for five minutes ; then moisten with half a pint 
 
90 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 of broth ; boil it on a brisk fire till reduced by half, and 
 rub it through a tammy into a basin. 
 
 When wanted, warm it up in a bain-marie, and add a 
 few drops of lemon juice before serving. 
 
 175. ESSENCE OF FISH. 
 
 Clean and cut in pieces a pound each of whiting, 
 gurnard, and soles, or any other small fish ; put them in 
 a stewpan with two onions stuck with two cloves, a carrot, 
 a "bouquet garni," four sh.olots, a pint of French white 
 wine ; salt and pepper to taste ; boil for five minutes, then 
 add three pints of fish broth, boil again over a brisk fire 
 till reduced to half its original quantity, and strain it 
 through a cloth into a basin and put it by for use. 
 
 176. MELTED BUTTER SAUCE. 
 
 Put a stewpan on the fire with two ounces of butter, 
 mix with it the same quantity of semolina flour, half a 
 pint of cold water, the juice of a lemon, and salt to taste ; 
 boil on a moderate fire and stir well with a wooden spoon 
 the while, to make it soft and without clots; as soon as 
 it boils rub it through a fine sieve or tammy cloth, return 
 it to the stewpan on the fire, add a little grated nutmeg, 
 six ounces of butter, and a few drops of lemon- j nice j stir, 
 and serve as soon as the butter is properly melted. 
 
 This sauce can be improved by adding the yolks of two or 
 three eggs well beaten, diluted with a little hot water passed 
 through a sieve and mixed with the sauce before serving. 
 
 177. BUTTER AND KETCHUP SAUCE. 
 Mix well in a stewpan two or three tablespoonfuls of 
 ketchup sauce with a leacupful of Velout^ sauce ; set it on 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 91 
 
 the fire and boil for a few minutes ; stir occasionally with 
 a wooden spoon, add an ounce of butter, stir again, and 
 serve. 
 
 Note. — This sauce can be made in the same way with any 
 other essence. 
 
 178. BLANQUETTE SAUCE, 
 
 Melt three ounces of butter in a stewpan; mix with it 
 the same quantity of flour and work it into a paste with- 
 out browning • moisten with a pint of veal broth ; stir with 
 a wooden spoon till it boils ; then draw by the side of the 
 fire, add a bay-leaf and two small slices of ham, simmer it 
 for an hourj skim and pass it through a sieve into a 
 basin, to be used as wanted. 
 
 179. POULETTE SAUCE. 
 
 Stir an ounce of flour with the same quantity of butter 
 in a stewpan on the fire for three minutes ; then add a 
 pint of white broth, and continue the stirring for fifteen 
 minutes; after which, draw the stewpan away from the 
 fire, thicken the sauce with the yolks qf two eggs, season 
 with salt and pepper, add a dozen champignons, sliced in 
 twos or threes, with a gill of the liquor they have been 
 boiled in, stir the sauce over the fire till near the boil, add 
 a small piece of butter, stir again to melt it, and serve. 
 
 180. GOOSEBERRY SAUCE. 
 
 Clean and blanch for a few minutes in a stewpan one 
 pint of green gooseberries; strain off the water through 
 a colander, rub them in the usual way through a sieve into 
 the stewpan again, add two ounces of butter; boil,, stir well, 
 and serve. 
 
92 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 181. APPLE SAUCE. 
 
 Peel and cut in slices five or six apples; put them in 
 a stewpan witli half a pint of water ; when cooked and 
 the water entirely consumed, rub them through a sieve; 
 return the pur6e to the stewpan on the fire, add about a 
 gill of, hot water, an ounce of sugar, and half an ounce 
 of butter to it, stir well, and when the whole is properly 
 melted, and mixed together, serve. 
 
 182. EGG SAUCE. 
 
 Mix in a stewpan on the fire a teacupful of Veloute 
 sauce with three hard-boiled eggs cut in small dice ; add 
 a little white pepper and salt to taste, also a little grated 
 nutmeg, together with the juice of half a lemon and a 
 dessert-spoonful of anchovy butter; mix' the lot well to- 
 gether by stirring over the fire before serving. 
 
 183. BREAD SAUCE. 
 
 Pour one pint of fresh cream into a stewpan on a 
 moderate fire, and as soon as it begins to foam and swell 
 draw the stewpan away ; then add three ounces of bread- 
 crumbs, a little salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and an onion ; 
 boil for five minutes, take the onion out, add an ounce of 
 butter, stir well, and serve. 
 
 Note. — The above is the proper manner to make a bread 
 sauce, but a similar one can be made (although not so good) 
 by substituting milk for cream. 
 
 184. HOLLANDAISE SAUCE (DUTCH). 
 
 Mix in a stewpan on a moderate fire the yolks of four 
 eggs with three tablespoonfuls of Veloutd sauce, a little 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 93 
 
 grated nutmeg, and six ounces of fresh butter; stir this 
 continually, and as the sauce thickens draw it gradually 
 away from the fire to prevent boiling, without ceasing the 
 stirring. When it has assumed a nice soft compact form, 
 and swelling in the stewpan, pour in it two tablespoonfuls 
 of vinegar, a little white pepper, and salt to taste ; stir well 
 and pass it through a tammy sieve, and serve quickly, or 
 into a bain-marie to keep hot till wanted. 
 
 185. INDIAN SAUCE. 
 
 Mix two tablespoonfuls of Allemande sauce in a stewpan 
 with a very small pinch of saffron, three ounces of curry 
 butter, or simply one tablespoonful of curry powder and 
 two ounces of fresh butter, set it on the fire, stir, and when 
 properly mixed, and made hot, serve. 
 
 186. OYSTER SAUCE. 
 
 Blanch for five minutes two dozen oysters in a gill of 
 white wine, strain the liquor into a small saucepan, mix 
 with it one pint of Velout^ sauce and a gill of fish broth 
 if handy, or the same quantity of white stock ; boil, stir, 
 and simmer for ten minutes, then add the yolks of two 
 eggs well beaten, stir the contents well, pass it through a 
 tammy sieve into the saucepan again on the fire, season 
 with salt and pepper, squeeze the juice of half a lemon, 
 stir gently, pour the oysters in, stir again, and serve. 
 
 187. FINANCI^RE SAUCE. 
 
 Cut in small dice a slice of gammon of about two 
 ounces, shred an onion, mince a few mushrooms and one 
 truffle, put the lot into a stewpan with two ounces of 
 
94 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 butter, add a small "bouquet garni" with a few pepper- 
 corns, fry.. for a few minutes,- then pour in it half a- 
 pint of white claret or sherry, cover the stewpan and 
 simmer till reduced to half the original quantity] pass 
 the liquid through a fine-pointed strainer into. the stew- 
 pan, and set it on the fire; keep the gammon, mushrooms, 
 and truiHe apart, add and mix with the liqour a pint of 
 Espagnole sauce, boil on a brisk fire for fifteen minutes, 
 stir well, and pass it through a tammy sieve. Meanwhile 
 put in a small saucepan a gill of white wine, with three 
 spoonfuls of cut truffles, add it to the gammon, mush- 
 rooms, and truffle that were kept back; cover the sauce- 
 pan, boil till reduced by one quarter, and pour it with the 
 other sauce at the moment of serving. 
 
 188. SUPREME SAUCE. 
 
 Put in a stewpan on the fire a pint of Blanquette 
 sauce; when near boiling mix with it a gill of chicken 
 essence ; stir well, simmer till the sauce has reached a 
 nice soft consistency, without, however, getting thick ; then 
 add a tablespoonful of cream, an ounce of butter, and 
 a few drops of lemon juice ; stir, and see that the butter is 
 well melted before serving. 
 
 189. BAVIGOTE BUTTER. 
 
 Pour into a stewpan on the fire one pint of Velout^ 
 sauce with half a pint of broth ; boil till reduced- by one- 
 third; stir almost constantly, and pass it through a tammy 
 sieve into the stewpan, to which add three ounces of 
 "Eavigote butter; set it by the side of the fire; stir for 
 a few seconds, and serve. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 95 
 
 190. ROBERT SAUCE. 
 
 Shred four onions in small dice, fry them in a stewpan 
 with three ounces of butter ; when the onions are nicely 
 browned sprinkle over them an ounce of white flour, 
 stir the lot, and fry for two or three minutes longer; 
 then pour in a gill of vinegar with half a pint of broth 
 or water and an ounce of sugar, boil for a few minutes, 
 then add salt and pepper to taste ; stir nicely, and serve 
 with either boiled meat or grilled fowl. 
 
 191. HORSE-RADISH SAUCE. 
 
 Scrape and mince fine a horse-radish, put it into a 
 stewpan with two tablespaonfuls of flour and half a pint 
 of cream, boil for half an hour, rub it through a sieve 
 into the stewpan and boil it again, season with salt and 
 pepper, add a little milk if necessarj', and serve. 
 
 192. GHERKIN SAUCE. 
 
 Cut six green pickled gherkins in very thin slices, put 
 them in a small stewpan with a few spoonfuls of vinegar 
 and a pinch of pepper, let this boil quickly for a few 
 minutes, then add a gill of Espagnole sauce and the same 
 quantity of veal broth, stir on the fire till it boils, then 
 draw the stewpan by the side of the fire, skim it, and 
 serve. 
 
 193, CAPER SAUCE. 
 
 Put a teacupful of Allemande sauce into a stewpan, 
 boil it with two tablespoonfuls of broth and an ounce 
 of fresh butter, stir nicely, and pass through a sieve 
 into the stewpan, then pour in two tablespoonfuls of 
 capers, set on the fire, and when nearly boiling, serve. 
 
96 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 194. FENNEL SAUCE. 
 
 Wash and mmce finely half a handful of fennel, put 
 it in a bain-marie in which a teacupful of AUemande 
 sauce has already been set to the boil; add a gill of 
 chicken gravy, an ounce of butter, and the juice of a lemon ; 
 mix these well together, and let the bain-marie boil for a 
 few minutes before serving. 
 
 195. D'UXELLES SAUCE AND D'UXELLES. 
 
 Wash, chop, and press in a cloth one pound of fresh 
 mushrooms or trimmings of tinned champignons, one pound 
 of parsley, and half a pound of shalots; put these in a 
 stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, and season 
 with salt and pepper to taste ; fry on a brisk fire for six 
 minutes, stirring the while with a wooden spoon; after 
 which, put it by in a jar for future use. 
 
 This mixture is called D'TJxelles. The sauce is made 
 by adding two tablespoonfuls of the mixture to a pint of 
 Espagnole sauce. 
 
 195a. FINE HERBS. 
 
 Mince very fine three small onions, fry these in two 
 ounces of butter, then add a quarter of a pound of fresh 
 inushrooms, similarly minced ; continue the frying until 
 dry, mix in the trimmings of two or three truffles, and two 
 or three minutes afterwards add a tablespoonful of finely 
 chopped parsley, previously blanched ; mix this well to- 
 gether, and put by in a jar covered with a buttered paper 
 until wanted. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 97 
 
 196. VENISON SAUCE. 
 
 Stir and mix over the fire half a pint of Espagnole sauce 
 with a gill of essence of game; then add a gill of port 
 wine, the half of that quantity of good French vinegar, and 
 two tablespoonfuls of black currant jelly ; boil this for two 
 minutes, add the juice of an orange, pour the sauce into 
 a sauce-boat, and serve. 
 
 197. MUSHROOM SAUCE. 
 
 Put into a small saucepan half a pint of Espagnole sauce 
 with the same quantity of gravy, simmer till reduced to 
 nearly half, give it an occasional stir, then add about four 
 ounces of champignons nicely sliced (buttons and stalks), 
 pour a little of their liquor with it, boil again for a few 
 minutes, stir the while, season with salt, and serve. 
 
 This sauce can be improved by adding a gill of white 
 claret or sherry before serving. 
 
 198. TRUFFLES SAUCE. 
 
 Cut about two ounces of truffles in very thin slices, put 
 these into a small saucepan with either a glass of white 
 claret, sherry, or Marsala; boil it quickly till reduced to 
 half, then pour into it half a pint of Espagnole and a small 
 pinch of salt ; stir on the fire till it has boiled for two or 
 three minutes longer, and serve. 
 
 199. SALMIS SAUCE. 
 
 Prepare some game essence ; mix half a pint of it with 
 
 one pint of Espagnole sauce into a stewpan, boil for a few 
 
 minutes, stir occasionally, then pass it .through a sieve 
 
 o 
 
98 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 into the stewpan, and set it by the side of the fire. Mean- 
 while pound in a mortar the cooked liver of two or three 
 partridges, grouse, or any other winged game ; mix it with 
 the sauce, add an ounce of butter, boil it, stirring the while, 
 and serve. 
 
 200. HARE SAUCE. 
 
 Pour into a stewpan one pint of Espagnole sauce with 
 half a pint of game essence, boil it and stir the while, add 
 four tablespoonf uls of good French vinegar, salt and pepper 
 to taste, stir on the fire again, and when boiling pass it 
 through a sieve, and serve. 
 
 201. DEVILLED SAUCE. 
 
 Fry in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, one shred 
 onion, and two small slices of ham cut in very small dice ; 
 when the onion is nicely browned, moisten it with a gill 
 of good French vinegar, add a small "bouquet garni" a 
 bay-leaf, and a pinch of white pepper; cover the stewpan, 
 and let it simmer till reduced by half. Meantime mix in 
 another small saucepan one pilit of Espagnole sauce with 
 half a pint of tomato sauce and one pint of veal broth ; boil ; 
 stir occasionally till reduced by about one-quarter, then add 
 half an ounce of sugar and the quarter of a teaspoonful 
 of cayenne; stir this well, and mix it with the vinegar 
 in the other stewpan, and after a few minutes of ebullition 
 pass it through a fine tammy sieve; serve the quantity 
 required, and put the remainder by in a cool place, to be 
 warmed up in a bain-marie when wanted. 
 
 202. ONION SAUCE. 
 
 Peel and blanch iti salt water three onions, cut them 
 in slices and fry in a stewpan with an ounce of butter 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 99 
 
 for two or three minutes; rub them afterwards through 
 a wire sieve into the stewpan on the fire, pour halt a 
 pint of milk, salt and pepper to taste ; stir well, and when 
 nearly boiling serve. 
 
 203. CUCUMBER SAUCE. 
 
 Put in a stewpan half a pint of Espagnole sauce and the 
 same quantity of gravy, reduce this to half by a quick 
 boiling, then add a cucumber of ordinary size, peeled and 
 cut in thin slices, which must have been previously soaked 
 in vinegar and salt for at least half an hour ; sprinkle over 
 it a little more salt and pepper, stir gently, boil it, and 
 serve. 
 
 204. ITALIAN SAUCE. 
 
 Put two glasses of French white wine into a stewpan 
 with two or three large fresh mushrooms properly cleaned 
 and minced finely; also a small chopped onion, a "bouquet 
 garni," and half a dozen pepper-corns ; boil it and simmer 
 till reduced to half. Meanwhile put in another stewpan 
 one pint of Veloute or Espagnole sauce, with a gill of game 
 broth ; boil it, and stir for a few minutes ; then pour the 
 wine sauce gradually over this, keep stirring, rub it after- 
 wards through a tammy sieve, and add the juice of a lemon 
 before serving. 
 
 205. ITALIAN SHARP SAUCE. 
 
 Fry in a stewpan with an ounce of butter one shred 
 onion and three ounces of lean ham or gammon, cut in 
 small dice; add a bay-leaf, a little parsley, and moisten 
 with a gill of French vinegar ; boil and reduce it to half 
 its quantity ; after which, mix with it a pint of Espagnole 
 
loo PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 sauce as well as three spoonfuls of tomato sauce and a little 
 salt and pepper ; boil it for a few seconds, stir the while, 
 pass through a tammy sieve into the stewpan again, 
 and complete the sauce by- adding two tablespoonfuls of 
 capers, previously pressed in a cloth and minced iine before 
 serving. 
 
 206, VENITIAN SAUCE. 
 
 Put in a bain-marie on a brisk fire a teacupful of Alle- 
 mande sauce, a few tarragon-leaves cut diamond-shape, 
 previously blanched and drained, one tablespoonful of good 
 chicken gravy, a little grated nutmeg, and a teaspoonful of 
 tarragon vinegar ; mix well together and boil it in the 
 bain-marie for a few minutes before serving. 
 
 207. GENOISE SAUCE. 
 
 Fry in a stewpan with an ounce or two of butter two 
 tablespoonfuls of olive-oil and an onion cut in slices; 
 moisten with a glass of claret, add a handful each of fresh 
 mushroom trimmings and truffles, a little chopped parsley, 
 and half a bay-leaf, and simmer for about ten minutes. 
 Meantime boil in a stewpan one pint of Espagnole sauce, 
 with half a pint of veal broth and three tablespoonfuls of 
 fish essence till reduced to one-third ; after which, add the 
 contents of the first steWpan to it ; mix well, skim carefully, 
 boil it again for a few minutes, then rub through a 
 tammy sieve, return it to the stewpan on the fire, add two 
 ounces of crayfish butter and the same quaiitity of anchovy 
 butter ; stir and mix well on the fire till boiling, and then 
 serve. 
 
 208. NAPaLITAINE SAUCE. ' ' 
 
 Fry in a stewpan with an ounce of butter a shred onion, 
 with three ounces of gammon cut in small pieces; moisten 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. loi 
 
 with a glass of sherry or Marsala and a teacupf ul of veal 
 broth ; add a few sprigs of thyme, a bay-leaf, a few pepper- 
 corns, three cloves, and the trimmings of a few mushrooms 
 well cleaned ; boil it ; cover the stewpan, and simmer till 
 reduced by one-half. In the meantime pour into another 
 stewpan one pint of Espagnole sauce, the same quantity 
 of tomato sauce, and a gill of game broth; boil this till 
 reduced to one-third, then add the contents of the first 
 stewpan to it ; stir well, boil for a few minutes, and rub it 
 through a tammy sieve before serving. 
 
 209, ROMAINE SAUCE. 
 
 Melt three ounces of sugar in a non-tinned copper pan, 
 add four tablespoonfuls of good vinegar to it, and dilute 
 both with a gill of broth ; then add one pint of Espagnole 
 sauce, and stir on the fire till well mixed. Boil, and serve. 
 
 210. LOMBARDE SAUCE. 
 
 Pour into a stewpan one pint of Blanquette sauce and 
 half a pint of chicken essence, boil it, stir it occasionally, 
 and after ten minutes of slow ebullition add the yolks of 
 three eggs, well beaten and properly mixed with an ounce 
 of melted butter and the juice of a lemon ; stir the contents 
 on the fire well, and as soon as it reaches the boil draw 
 the stewpan away from the fire ; add to it half a pint of 
 tomato sauce,, mix this well together, then rub it through 
 a tammy sieve, and serve. 
 
 211. SICILIAN SAUCE. 
 
 Chop separately and fine four shalots, two small truffles, 
 a little parsley, and a dozen ordinary mushrooms ; put the 
 
102 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 lot into a snlall saucepan with a little thyme, a bay-lea,f, 
 one clove of garlic, and a small pinch of cayenne j moisten 
 with two glasses of sherry ; set to simmer on a slow fire 
 for ten minutes ; then add one pint of Allemande sauce ; 
 continue the simmering for a few minutes longer, giving it 
 an occasional stir, then add a spoonful of minced parsley, 
 previously blanched, and the juice of half a lemon before 
 serving. 
 
 212. LOBSTER SAUCE. 
 
 Out the fleshy part of a small cooked lobster into very 
 small dice, and put them on a plate ; pound in a mortar the 
 spawn and coral of the lobster with two ounces of butter 
 and rub it through a sieve ; then put in a stewpan half 
 a pint of Velout^ sauce with the lobster butter just made, 
 half a gill of good gravy, and a small pinch of cayenne ; 
 boil and stir occasionally, add the pieces of cut lobster 
 and the juice of half a lemon, sprinkle a little pepper, 
 and serve. 
 
 213. SHRIMP SAUCE. 
 
 Make half a pint of melted butter sauce, then add the 
 coral of a small lobster, pounded and mixed with a small 
 pinch of cayenne, a teaspoonful of anchovy essence, eighteen 
 picked shrimps, and the juice of half a lemon, and serve. 
 
 214. VICTORIA SAUCE. 
 
 Put four tablespoonfuls of red currant jelly in a stew- 
 pan with a dozen cloves, a small stick of cinnamon, the 
 peel of two oranges, a gill of good gravy, and half a pint 
 of Espagnole sauce; moisten with .half a pint of red wine 
 (Burgundy is best), boil it and simmer for twenty minutes, 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 103 
 
 then pass it through a tamm}' sieve, add the juice of two 
 oranges, and serve. 
 
 Note. — This sauce is generally served with red -deer or 
 roebuck. 
 
 215. RED CURRANT JELLY SAUCE. 
 
 Break into shreds one stick of cinnamon and twelve 
 cloves, put them into a small stewpan with two ounces of 
 sugar and the peel of a lemon, which must be perfectly 
 free from the white pulp ; moisten with three glasses of 
 port wine, then set the lot to simmer on the fire for a 
 quarter of aii hour; after which, pass it through a fine- 
 pointed strainer into a stewpan containing six tablespoon- 
 fuls of red currant jelly, boil it in order to melt the jelly, 
 by stirring .and mixing well before serving. 
 
 This sauce is generally served with venison. 
 
 216. BUTTER SAUCE FOR ASPARAGUS. 
 
 Prepare a butter sauce as directed, then add a gill of 
 cream with a teaspoonful of French vinegar ; mix well on 
 the fire, and serve. 
 
 This sauce is also served with cauliflower, seakale, &c., &c. 
 
 217. TOMATO SAUCE. 
 
 Fry in a stewpan with an ounce 'of butter two ounces of 
 gammon cut in small dice, with half an onion, half a carrot, 
 and a little celery, all shred finely, together with a bay- 
 leaf, a small "bouquet" composed of thyme, cloves, and 
 pepper-corns ; moisten with three spoonfuls of good vine- 
 gar, set it to simmer till the liquor is almost all absorbed, 
 then pour in a gill of white claret and half a pint of broth j 
 add seven or eight ripe fresh tomatoes cut in pieces, \rith 
 
I04 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 the seed and water squeezed out of them ; let it boil for 
 about twenty minutes with the lid on the pan, give it an 
 occasional stirring, then pass it, by rubbing, through a 
 tammy sieve into the stewpan again on the fire ; mix with 
 it a pint of Espagnole, Veloute, or Blanquette- sauce ; boil, 
 and stir gently to prevent burning, add a tablespoonful of 
 powdered sugar, one ounce of butter, and the juice of half 
 a lemon, mix well together, and serve. 
 
 Note. — I give th'e recipe of this sauce as a matter of 
 course, but strongly advise the use of tinned tomato sauce, 
 as it will be found both cheaper and better, on account of 
 the superiority and cheapness of tomatoes in France and 
 Italy, where they ripen better under a more genial sun 
 than in the hothouses of this country. 
 
 COLD SAUCES. 
 
 218. MAYONNAISE SAUCE. 
 
 Mix in a round-bottomed basin half a pint of Veloute 
 or Blanquette sauce with the same quantity of melted white 
 jelly (No. 150), salt and pepper to taste and a little grated 
 nutmeg ; set the basin in a bucket or saucepan containing 
 some broken ice, then proceed to work the sauce with a 
 wooden spoon without stopping, pouring with your left hand, 
 little by little, half a pint of good olive-oil, stirring the while. 
 When the sauce is nicely mounted and has reached its proper 
 consistency add the juice of two lemons and a few sprigs of 
 finely chopped chervil and tarragon, stir, and serve. 
 
 219. ANOTHER MAYONNAISE SAUCE. 
 
 Put in a similar basin as in No. 218 the yolks of two 
 eggs with salt to taste, and a few drops of lemon-juice ; 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 105 
 
 proceed to work this sauce in the same manner as above 
 with a wooden spoon and by pouring half a pint of good olive- 
 oil, almost drop by drop, into the basin to begin with, till 
 the half of the oil has been properly mixed, then a larger 
 quantity at a time can be poured in. Keep stirring to and 
 fro without stopping till the sauce assumes its proper con- 
 sistency, then squeeze the juice of quarter of a lemon, and 
 add gradually a gill of good French vinegar ; stir the while, 
 and when the sauce is of a nice appearance sprinkle a small 
 pinch of white pepper, the juice of two Jemons, a little 
 grated nutmeg, and a few sprigs of chervil chopped finely ; 
 mix these ingredients well together, pour it into a sauce- 
 boat, and serve. 
 
 220. MAYONNAISE RAVIGOTE SAUCE. 
 
 Blanch in boiling salt water for a few minutes a small 
 quantity each, of chervil, tarragon, parsley, the white part 
 of a small head of celery, and one shalot ; then let them get 
 cold, and pound them in a mortar with four washed and 
 boned anchovies ; add three tablespoonf uls of Velout^ sauce, 
 rub the lot through a tammy sieve, and at the moment of 
 serving mix it with half the quantity of Mayonnaise sauce 
 previously made as in the preceding number. 
 
 Note. — The above Mayonnaise sauces are generally served 
 as a dressing with any kind of cold iish, lobster, or cold 
 fowl. 
 
 221. TARTARE SAUCE. 
 
 Mince finely a few sprigs each of parsley, chervil, 
 tarragon, and one shalot, as well as the white part of 
 the quarter of a head of celery, three boned anchovies, 
 half a dozen capers, and the rind of half a lemon ; put the 
 
io6 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 lot into a cloth and twist it, so as to squeeze the juice out, 
 then mix the minced substance with two op three table- 
 spoonfuls of Mayonnaise sauce (No. 219), to which add one 
 tablespoonful of mustard flour, a pinch of white pepper, and 
 a few drops of lemon-juice before serving. 
 
 Note.^-This sauce can be served with hot or cold fish as 
 well as meat. 
 
 222. KEMOULADK SAUCE. 
 
 Blanch a small quantity of tarragon, chervil, burnet, and 
 an onion; then chop and pound the lot in a mortar with 
 the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, add salt and pepper 
 to taste, a spoonful of mustard flour and a little grated 
 nutmeg; pour all -into a basin, and add gradually to it, 
 in small quantities, about a gill of good oil ; work the com- 
 pound with a wooden spoon exactly as a Mayonnaise sauce, 
 then pour two tablespoonfuls of French vinegar, continue 
 the stirring till well mixed, when it must be rubbed through 
 a sieve, and served. Cayenne can also be added if liked. 
 
 223. MUSTARD SAUCE. 
 
 Pour four tablespoonfuls of mustard floiir into a basin 
 with a little salt, dilute it with a gill of boiling water, stir 
 the while to prevent clotting, add two tablespoonfuls of 
 vinegar; stir, and see that the sauce is smooth before 
 serving. 
 
 224. HORSE-RADISH SAUCE. 
 
 Cut in very small dice the root of an ordinary horse- 
 radish, pound it in a mortar, then mix it with one ounce 
 of powdered sugar and one of grated bread-crumbs, moisten 
 with vinegar, pass through a sieve, put it into a basin, 
 dilute with more vinegar, and serve. 
 
P-RACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 107 
 
 225. MINT SAUCE. 
 
 Put in a basin two ounces of brown sugar with two 
 tablespoonfuls of fresh green mint, chopped fine, and half 
 a pint of vinegar, mix well, and as soon as the sugar is 
 dissolved, serve. 
 
 226. MAItKE D'HOTEL BUTTER. 
 
 Put about two ounces of butter on a plate with a little 
 chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon, 
 knead the lot well together, and serve. 
 
 This butter is used for kidneys, steaks, cutlets, broiled 
 fish of all kinds, &c., &c. 
 
 227. CALF'S FOOT JELLY (PLAIN). 
 
 Scrape, clean, and cut in pieces foiir calf's feet, put them 
 in an ordinary saucepan with three quarts of water on a 
 good fire, boil for about four hours, pay proper attention 
 to the skimming, then strain through a hair sieve into an 
 earthenware basin, remove all particles of fat "with a sheet 
 of blotting or kitchen paper, and place it on a shelf in a 
 cool place. When cold wash the top of the jelly with a 
 clean cloth dipped in boiling water. 
 
 This plain jelly may be the foundation of all wine, fruit, 
 and liqueur jellies when gelatine is not used, and can be 
 kept good for a long time if boiled every day. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 PUREES OF VEGETABLES FOR GARNISHING, ETC. 
 
 228. PUR^E OF TOMATOES. 
 
 Cut a dozen fresh ripe tomatoes in slices, squeeze the 
 water out of them and put them into a stewpan on a slow 
 fire, with half a pint of broth, a " bouquet garni," and two 
 slices of gammon ,• simmer till the liquid is nearly consumed, 
 then add a gill of Velout^ or Blanquette sauce, stir and 
 mix all well together on the fire, then rub it through a 
 sieve into a bain-marie to be kept hot till wanted. 
 
 229. PURINE A LA SOUBISE. 
 
 Peel, cut, and blanch for ten minutes in boiling salt 
 water six medium-sized onions ; strain and squeeze the 
 water out of them ; place these afterwards in a stewpan 
 with an ounce of butter and three small slices of gammon, 
 fry for five minutes on a slow fire, then add a gill of chicken 
 broth with a pinch of white pepper ; let them simmer for 
 half an hour, pour in a gill of Bechamel sauce, stir occa- 
 sionally, and simmer again for five minutes; after which, 
 rub through a sieve into a bain-marie, and at the moment 
 of serving throw in a lump of sugar. 
 
 Noie. — Should there be no B^chanjel sauce made, a table- 
 spoonful of semolina flour, diluted in a gill of cream, will 
 be a good substitute for it.. 
 
 io8 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 109 
 
 230. PUR^E OF VEGETABLES. 
 
 Slice the red part of four carrots, two turnips, one onion, 
 two leeks, and two heads of celery; wash and strain the 
 lot properly, then pour them into a stewpan with three 
 ounces of butter, fry till of a nice brown colour ; add to it 
 half a pint of broth in which two or three slices of crumb 
 of bread have been soaking, together with a little each of 
 sugar, white pepper, and grated nutmeg ; boil on a good fire 
 till the vegetables are well cooked, then pound them in a 
 mortar, and return the pur^e to the stewpan, with half 
 a pint of Espagnole sauce and a tablespoonful of essence of 
 chicken, boil again for a few minutes, and pass through a 
 sieve in the usual way before serving. 
 
 231. PUR]6e of potatoes. 
 
 Peel, wash, and cut in slices two pounds of potatoes ; 
 cook them in a saucepan with a little salt water. When 
 cooked, strain off the water through a colander ami return 
 the potatoes into the saucepan with four ounces of butter, 
 a little sugar, and half a pint of cream or milk ; stir well 
 on the fire, and boU, then rub through a sieve into the 
 saucepan . again, add a little more butter, together with a 
 gill of hot chicken gravy, mix well on the fire, and serve. 
 
 232. PUR^E OF GREEN PEAS. 
 
 Cook in plenty of salt water with a, few branches of 
 mint one quart of fresh shelled peas in a covered stewpan. 
 When cooked, strain off the water through a colander, 
 tlirow the mint away, pound the peas in a mortar or rub 
 them through a sieve, return the piiree to the stewpan with 
 
no PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 two ounces of butter, half a pint of Bechamel sauce or 
 good gravy, and a J)iece of sugar, mix well, set to the boil, 
 and serve. 
 
 233. PUR^E OF DRY PEAS. 
 
 Soak in plenty of water a quart of dry peas for about 
 ten hours, strain off the water in which the peas have 
 soaked, boil them as in No. 232, but with less salt, add a 
 " bouquet garni," a piece of sugar, pepper, grated nutmeg, 
 and a slice of the crumb of bread. When well cooked, strain 
 off the water, throw the "bouquet" away, pound the peas 
 and bread in a mortar, return the pur6e to the stewpan 
 on the fire, add a gill of Espagnole sauce ■ stir and mix well, 
 set to the boil, pass through a sieve in the usual way, and 
 serve. 
 
 234. PUR^E OF LENTILS. 
 
 Proceed for this pur^e exactly as for the pur^e of dry 
 peas. 
 
 235. PUR^E OF TURNIPS. 
 
 Fry in butter eight large turnips, cut in small slices, 
 after having been blanched in the usual way for five 
 minutes ; then add a gill of veal broth or some good gravy, 
 a piece of sugar, and two slices of crumb of bread, boil 
 gently till well cooked, skim it carefully, and pound it in 
 a mortar ; retumthe pur^e to the stewpan with half a pint 
 of Bechamel sauce ; stir well, and boil, then pass it through 
 a sieve into the stewpan, and just before serving add half 
 a gill of hot gravy with an ounce of butter, Stir well on 
 the fire till mixed, and serve. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. iii 
 
 236. 
 
 Celery, Carrots, French Beans, Endive, Cauliflower, and 
 Spinach are made into purees in the same manner as the 
 above. 
 
 237, PUR]6e of CHESNUTS. 
 
 Cook and peel two pounds of chesnuts in the same way 
 ais in No. 51, but finishing the cooking in' water instead 
 of broth ; then strain and pound them in a mortar, return 
 the purte to the stewpan: on the fire with half a pint of 
 Espagnole sauce, stir, and boil ; rub the puree through a 
 sieve into the stewpan again on the fire, add an ounce 
 of butter and a gill of cream, mix well whilst on the 
 fire, and when hot serve. 
 
 238. PUR^E OF SORREL. 
 
 Pick and wash well in two or three waters three pounds 
 of sorrel ; drain off the water ; melt in a stewpan two 
 ounces of butter, put the sorrel in and cover the stewpan 
 on the fire for a few. minutes ; stir afterwards with a 
 wooden spoon on the fire till the sorrel is soft or melted, 
 when it must be turned over into a hair sieve to drain. 
 Meanwhile fry in the same stewpan with two ounces of 
 butter an onion shred very fine, till of a nice brown colour ; 
 then add a tablespoonful of flour, a little grated nutmeg, 
 a tablespoonful of brown sugar, salt and pepper to taste ; 
 stir on the fire for a few seconds ; after which, moisten with 
 a gill of Espagnole sauce, add the sorrel from the sieve, 
 simmer till well reduced and the sorrel turned into a puree, 
 taking care to stir it with a wooden spoon the whole time ; 
 then rub it through a, tammy sieve in the usual way, and 
 serve hot, garnished with croutons and a spoonful of good 
 gravy poured over it. 
 
112 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 239. PUR^E OF JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. 
 
 Proceed for this pur6e exactly in the same manner as 
 for the pur^e of potatoes, taking the same quantity of 
 artichokes, substituting them for potatoes. 
 
 Remarks on Eggs. 
 
 New-laid eggs are absolutely necessary for good cooking. 
 They are as nourishing as their equivalent weight in meat, 
 and more digestible, and, like rice, they can be prepared 
 in many different ways. They are served in soups as well 
 as in made dishes, and are appreciated in salads as well 
 as in sweet dishes and omelets, besides bein^ constantly 
 used in sauces, paste, pastry, liaisons, &c., &e. 
 
 The freshness of eggs can easily be ascertained by 
 immersing them gently one after the other in a basinful 
 of cold water; -those lying flat at the bottom are quite 
 fresh, those remaining perpendicular are not, and the eggs 
 that float or swim are bad. Thus any one can tell the 
 different ages of, say, a dozen eggs without fear of a 
 mistake, and I strongly ajdvise every one to always try 
 them in this way before breaking them. 
 
 240. BOILED EGGS. 
 
 Place the number of eggs required to be cooked into 
 a ladle in boiling water for three minutes in summer and 
 half a minute longer in winter, and serve in egg-cups. 
 
 241. EGGS WITH BROWN OR BLACK BUTTER. 
 
 For each couple of eggs required put a piece of butter 
 as big as a walnut into a frying-pan on the fire ; let the 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 113 
 
 butter boil, then break the eggs in the middle, by a gentle 
 knock on the border of the pan (after having tried their 
 freshness as indicated), and drop them gently in,' without 
 breaking the yolks j sprinkle a little salt and pepper on 
 each, fry for about three minutes and remove them care- 
 fully on a dish with a flat strainer, and keep hot ; return 
 the frying-pan to the fire with half an ounce of butter 
 (for each two eggs), and fry this butter till it is nearly 
 black; then add a dessert- spoonful of French vinegar 
 for each half-ounce of butter, with a sprig of parsley 
 chopped fine ; pour it over the eggs, and serve. 
 
 242. EGGS FRIED. 
 
 Melt half an ounce of butter in a frying pan, and when 
 boiling break two eggs, drop them gently into the frying- 
 pan ; season with salt and' pepper, and when the whites 
 get firm and begin to brown, serve on a hot dish. 
 
 243. EGGS WITH CREAM AND BUTTER. 
 
 Put about a quarter of an ounce of butter in a small flat 
 enamelled pan, on the fire, with a gill of cream, a little salt 
 and pepper for every two eggs broken, as in the foregoing. 
 Meantime have red hot a salamander or iron shovel, hold 
 it over the pan on the fire for two minutes, so that the con- 
 tents are being cooked on the top as well as at the bottom 
 of the pan at the same time ; and then serve quickly. 
 
 Note. — Eggs cooked in enamelled pans should always be 
 sent to the table in them, on plates. 
 
 244. EGGS AU PLAT. 
 
 Put a quarter of an ounce of butter into a small enamelled 
 pan as in No. 243 ; let the butter melt on a moderate fire, 
 
114 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 then break two eggs and drop them into the pan without 
 disturbing the yolks j let them simmer gently till the 
 whites get firm, season with salt and pepper, put the pan 
 in a hot oven for half a minute, and serve. 
 
 245. POACHED EGGS. 
 
 Put a quart of boiling water into a saut6-pan with a gill 
 of vinegar and a good pinch of salt ; when the water boils, 
 break the number of eggs required to be poached and drop 
 gently one by one into the boiling water ; as soon as the 
 whites get firm, take them out with a flat skimmer and 
 place gently on a clean cloth, trim the whites with a knife, 
 and serve either on plain toast, anchovy toast, with slices 
 of bacon or purees, minced meat, &c., &c. 
 
 246. EGGS AU PLAT WITH TOMATOES. 
 
 Peel, slice, and squeeze the water out of a fresh tomato ; 
 put half an ounce of butter into a small enamelled pan on 
 the fire ; when the butter is melted, break and drop two 
 eggs into it, with the slices of tomato; season well with 
 salt and pepper, cook till the whites get firm, and then put 
 the pan in the oven for one minute, and serve. 
 
 247, EGGS A LA TRIPE. 
 
 Boil ten eggs for ten minutes, immerse them afterwards 
 in cold water for a few minutes to get cold, take them out, 
 roll each one after the other on the table to break the 
 shells, which remove with your fingers. Cut them iu thick 
 round slices and put into a stewpan. Cut two onions in 
 slices so as to leave them in rings ; blanch in salt water 
 for a few minutes; strain and place in a stewpan with 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 115 
 
 a gill of veal broth ; boil and simmer till cooked ; then pour 
 them over the eggs with half a pint of Bechamel sauce, the 
 clove of a garlic chopped very fine, a little nutmeg, salt 
 and pepper to taste, and the juice of a lemon. Set the 
 stewpan on the fire, toss the lot to prevent burning, and 
 as soon as the eggs are made hot, dish up nicely inter- 
 woven with the rings of onion and some slices of bread cut 
 the same shape fried in butter, and serve. 
 
 248. EGGS BROUILLfiS WITH ASPARAGUS-POINTS, 
 
 Break and beat eight eggs into a stewpan with a table- 
 spoonful of grated cheese, three ounces of butter, a gill of 
 cream or milk, and salt and pepper to taste. Set the stew- 
 pan on a moderate fire, stii-ring all the time with a wooden 
 spoon, and occasionally shake and toss the stewpan to pre- 
 vent the contents from attaching itself to the bottom of 
 the pan. When the eggs begin to thicken draw the stewpan 
 by the side of the fire, add twenty small asparagus pre- 
 viously cooked, strained, and cut in small points ; continue 
 to work the eggs and mix with the asparagus-points until 
 the eggs .ire nicely set, but not hard. Then pour into 
 a hot dish and decorate with crolitons cut triangle-shape, 
 and fried in butter before serving. 
 
 Note. — The same thing can be made with chopped parsley, 
 green peas, mushrooms, truffles, tomatoes, bacon and ham 
 cut in small dice, taking care to previously cook the 
 vegetables in the usual way, or to fry the ham or bacon 
 in butter before mixing with the eggs. 
 
 249. EGGS WITH SAUCE. 
 
 Boil eight eggs in water for ten or twelve minutes, 
 dip in cold water and shell them, cut each egg into halves 
 
Ii6 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 lengthwise, and place with taste on a hot dish, and put the 
 dish in the open oven. Meanwhile have ready boiling half 
 a pint of either butter, Ravigote, Blanquette, or any other 
 sauce that may be fancied, and pour it over the eggs, and 
 serve, 
 
 250. EGGS AU GRATIN. 
 
 Boil eight or ten eggs hard ; dip them into cold water ; 
 shell and cut in slices; put these by on a plate. Put 
 half a pint of Blanquette sauce into a stewpan, boil it 
 and let it simmer for ten minutes, giving it an occasional 
 stir ; then add half an ounce of butter, two ounces of grated 
 cheese, a little grated nutmeg, pepper and salt to taste, 
 the juice of half a lemon, and the yolks of three eggs; 
 stir the lot quickly over the fire till it begins to thicken, 
 when the stewpan must be drawn ■ away from the fire. 
 Then take a gratin-dish, put the eggs in close circular 
 rows in it, spread some of the mixture out of the stewpan, 
 over and between each layer, observing that the dishing- 
 up must be in the form of a dome ; smooth the surface 
 over with the remainder of the sauce, sprinkle a handful 
 of bread-crumbs mixed with the same quantity of grated 
 cheese over the top ; decorate the base of the eggs with 
 triangular crovltons fried in butter, set the dish in a hot 
 oven to gratinate for about ten minutes, and serve. 
 
 251. EGGS A LA DAUPHINE. 
 
 Boil twelve eggs hard, plunge them in cold water, 
 take the shells off and cut each egg into halves, scoop 
 the yolks out and put in a mortar, place the whites on a 
 dish and keep hot; add to the yolks a quarter of a pound 
 of butter, about two ounces of the crumb of bread soaked 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 117 
 
 in cream, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a little grated 
 nutmeg, two ounces of grated cheese, season with salt and 
 pepper, and pound the whole well together. Add one raw 
 egg and the yolks of two others, mix these well together 
 by pounding again, then take this compound with a dessert- 
 spoon, and fill up each white part of the eggs with it, and 
 smooth each one over with the blade of a small knife 
 dipped in water. Having thus filled the whites of the 
 eggs, spread the remainder of the mixture on the bottom 
 of a gratin-dish, then proceed to build up the eggs in 
 three or four tiers -in a pyramidal form. Rub through 
 a wire sieve the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs, by 
 holding the sieve over the dish so that the shreds like 
 vermicelli may fall direct on and around the eggs, or 
 form afterwards a border round the base of the dish 
 with croutons fried in butter. Set the dish in the oven 
 for about twenty minutes or till the eggs are of a bright 
 yellow colour, then pour a little hot white sauce round, 
 and serve. 
 
 252. EGGS A L'AURORE. 
 
 Boil ten eggs hard, remove the shells, and cut each 
 into halves lengthwise, take the yolks carefully out and 
 place them on a dish, shred the whites in fine strips, 
 put these into a stewpan with a sauce composed of half 
 a pint of bechamel mixed with a little lobster butter, 
 the yolks of two eggs, a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, 
 ^nd a small pinch of cayenne ; toss the strips in the stew- 
 pan over the fire until quite hot, then put a layer into 
 the centre of a hot dish with a border of croiltons fried 
 in butter, previously stuck round the bottom of the dish, 
 sprinkle a handful of grated cheese over it, and rub the 
 yolks of eggs put apart through a wire sieve, in the same 
 
ii8 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY; 
 
 manner as in No. 251 • make another layer of the whites 
 and sauce, then shake again a little grated cheese and 
 shreds of yolk, and so on, till the lot is used up, finishing 
 with the yolks of eggs in shreds. Set the dish in the 
 oven tUl it has attained a bright yellow colour, and serve. 
 
 253, PLAIN OMELET WITH PARSLEY, 
 
 Break six eggs into a basin ; add one tablespoonful of 
 finely chopped parsley, with salt and pepper to taste ; 
 beat the contents well with a fork ; meantime melt in a 
 clean frying-pan (size, 7 inches) two ounces of butter, and as 
 soon as the butter begins to fritter pour the egg-mixture 
 into it, taking care to beat it whilst it is being poured in ; 
 then stir gently on the fire with the right hand, and give 
 an occasional shake and toss to the pan with left ; when 
 the omelet begins to get firm and is partially set, roll 
 over the extremity nearest to the handle with the fork, 
 do the same thing on the opposite side, to give it an oval 
 form, allowing it at the same time to acquire a golden 
 colour on the outside, or side touching the frying-pan. 
 When properly cooked, take a hot oval dish with the left 
 hand, turn the omelet over on to it from the pan, which is 
 held by the right hand almost perpendicular against the 
 dish, and serve. 
 
 Although omelets are very simple and easily made, noth- 
 ing but practice, combined with knowledge and attention, 
 will teach the cook how to ensure -success in their prepara- 
 tion. A proper omelet-pan should always be kept for the 
 purpose. The eggs should never be overbeaten, as by so 
 doing a watery mixture is produced, which will sometimes 
 destroy the taste as well as the appearance. And lastly, 
 never attempt to make an omelet with more than four- 
 teen eggs ; if more are wanted, it is better to make two 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY: 119 
 
 small than one large, which is generally difficult to cook 
 properly. 
 
 254. OMELET WITH HAM OR BACON. 
 
 Beat six eggs in the same way as in No. 253, with or with- 
 out parsley, and very little salt. Then cut in small dice 
 two slices of either ham, gammon, or bacon (if raw, fry 
 in butter for a few minutes). Melt in a frying-pan two 
 ounces of butter, and when boiling pour into it the eggs 
 beaten as above ; stir in the same manner. Mix the 
 pieces of ham or bacon with it, and as soon as cooked 
 fold in same style and serve as described in the foregoing. 
 
 255. OMELET WITH ONION. 
 
 Peel and slice two onions ; fry them in a frying-pan 
 with two ounces of butter till nicely browned ; meanwhile 
 beat six eggs into a basin, and add salt and pepper to taste. 
 When the onions are properly browned add a little more 
 butter to the frying-pan, then pour the mixture of eggs 
 into it, stir in the usual way, fold, and serve. 
 
 256. OMELET WITH TOMATOES. 
 
 Peel, cut in slices, and squeeze the water out of three 
 tomatoes, fry them in a frying-pan with two ounces of 
 butter for a few minutes, and sprinkle a little salt and 
 pepper over them- Meantime . break and beat six eggs, 
 with salt and pepper, into a basin as before ; melt two 
 ounces of butter in the frying-pan, pour the eggs in and 
 stir in the usual "way, and when nearly cooked draw the 
 pan away from the fire, spread the tomatoes over the 
 omelet, push the pan over the fire again, fold as before, 
 and serve. 
 
120 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 257. OMELET WITH FISH. 
 
 Cut in small pieces, properly boned, any cooked fish 
 that may remain from the previous day's dinner; fry it in 
 a frying-pan with a little butter. Meanwhile prepare an 
 omelet in the usual way, mix the fish with it, fold, and 
 serve. 
 
 258. OMELET WITH KIDNEYS. 
 
 Procure two or three sheep's kidneys ; take the skin off 
 and cut them in thin slices; put these into a stewpan, 
 moisten with Espagnole sauce or good gravy, sprinkle with 
 salt and pepper to taste, add half a glass of sherry, and let 
 them simmer till cooked. Meanwhile prepare an omelet 
 with six or eight eggs, spread the kidneys over it when 
 cooked,, sprinkle a little finely-chopped parsley, fold, and 
 serve. A few slices of mushrooms added to the kidneys 
 will improve the omelet. 
 
 259. OMELET WITH ARTICHOKE. 
 
 Blanch and cut in small quarters, the hearts of three or 
 four artichokes, fry them in butter for a few minutes, and 
 proceed to mix with the omelet as for the tomatoes. 
 
 260. OMELET WITH CHEESE. 
 
 Beat six eggs in the usual way with salt and pepper ; 
 add four tablespoonfuls of grated cheese, then proceed with 
 this as in other omelets, and when on the dish sprinkle a 
 little more grated cheese on the top with a spoonful of 
 good gravy, and serve. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 261. OMELET WITH CHEESE, No. 2. 
 
 Beat six eggs into a basin with a gill of cream ; salt and 
 pepper to taste, with two tablespoonfuls of grated cheese ; 
 shred very fine two ounces of Gruyfere cheese ; then proceed 
 with the omelet in all respects like the others, and when 
 nearly cooked draw the pan from the fire, spread the 
 Gruyfere cheese over it, return the pan to the fire, fold 
 nicely, and serve. 
 
 262. OMELET WITH OYSTERS. 
 
 Proceed and finish this omelet in the same manner as 
 the foregoing, merely substituting oysters, prepared as for 
 scallops, instead of cheese. 
 
 263. OMELET PIEMONTAISE OR FONDU. 
 
 Put the yolks of six eggs into a saucepan ; beat them 
 well with a gill of cream and two ounces of butter ; cut in 
 small dice one pound of Gruyfere cheese, put the half of it 
 into the saucepan with the eggs, set the pan on a moderate 
 fire, stir gently till the cheese begins to melt ; then add the , 
 remainder of the cheese to it ; continue stirring, but very 
 slowly, and do not let it boil. When properly worked and 
 of the consistency of a Bechamel sauce, pour it into a hot 
 dish, and serve with a few slices of truiBes spread on the 
 top of it. 
 
 264. 
 
 Omelets can also be made with spinach, soirel, peas, 
 asparagus, mushrooms (fresh and tinned), truffles, brains, 
 giblets, &c., &c. The process of their composition is always 
 
122 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 the same, only varying in the cooking of the different 
 ingredients required to put with it. 
 
 Note. — For all sweet omelets, snow eggs, &c., see Sweets. 
 
 265. BREAD PANADA. 
 
 Soak about half a pound of the crumb of stale bread in 
 tepid water for a quarter of an hour; then put it on a 
 cloth, fold, and wring it tightly to squeeze the water out ; 
 after which, turn it into a stewpan with half a pint of white 
 broth, set the stewpan on the fire and simmer till the 
 broth is completely reduced, stirring all the time with a 
 wooden spoon till the contents assume the consistency of a 
 thick paste ; then add an ounce of butter, continue stirring 
 for a few seconds, pour it into a plate and store it away in 
 the larder ready for use. 
 
 266. BICE PANADA. 
 
 Put three ounces of rice into a saucepan, soak it with 
 half a pint of white broth for about fifteen minutes ; set it 
 on the fire and boil gently, without stirring, for another 
 fifteen minutes ; add an ounce of butter, stir well on the 
 fire for five minutes, rub the rice through a sieve, spread 
 it on a plate, and put it in a cool place for future use. 
 
 267. SEMOLINA PANADA. 
 
 Put in a stewpan half a pint of white broth with one 
 and a half ounce of butter ; boil ; draw the stewpan away 
 from the fire, sprinkle into it four ounces of semolina flour, 
 stir gently by the side of the fire till the semolina is nicely 
 dried up, then turn it into a plate and put by, like the 
 previous panada. 
 
, PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD .COOKERY. 123 
 
 268. BREAD-RASPINGS. 
 
 Save the pieces of stale bread, put them ia a tin dish iii' 
 the oven over-jiight to dry until next morning, then pound 
 in a mortar, pass through a fine wire sieve, and put in a 
 tin box for use. 
 
 269. BREADIN6S. 
 
 For breadings, beat two eggs on a plate, and mix well 
 with a tablespoonful of oil and a little salt and pepper. 
 Rub through a wire sieve a few pieces of crumb of stale 
 bread, put it in a tin dish in the oven to dry and get a 
 bright golden colour, and then turn it into a closed box 
 for use. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 FORCEMEAT— GARNISHING IN GENERAL— AND 
 SALPICON. 
 
 Forcemeat is a mixture of fat or lean meat, chicken, 
 game, or fish, and the necessary seasoning, all well pounded 
 together. These are very useful in cookery, and turned 
 to good account for " hors-d'ceuvres " and " gratins," as well 
 as for garnishing fish, entrdes, &c., &c., when made into 
 quenelles. 
 
 270. VEAL FORCEMEAT. 
 
 Clean, peel, and cook four potatoes,; put in a stewpan 
 with an ounce of butter, and mash them properly ; turn 
 the puree into a dish, and place the dish on the ice if 
 in warm weather, or in a cool place in winter. Mean- 
 time cut in small pieces, six ounces of a cushion of veal, 
 and three ounces of the udder of veal. Melt one ounce of 
 butter in a stewpan, and fry these till nicely browned ; 
 moisten with a few tablespoonfuls of broth ; let them 
 simmer till the lot is cooked and well glazed; add three 
 ounces of chopped calf's liver; simmer for six minutes 
 longer, and draw it away from the fire; let it get cold; 
 after which, pound it in a mortar with one pound of raw 
 flesh of veal, free from skin and sinew and chopped fine ; 
 then add to it the mashed potatoes ; season with salt and 
 pepper; sprinkle a little grated nutmeg, with one table- 
 spoonful of B&hamel sauce and three eggs well beaten ; 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 125 
 
 rub the mixture through a wire sieve into a basin, and put 
 it in a cool place ready for use, either for quenelles or 
 stuffing. 
 
 270a. ANOTHER VEAL STUFFING. 
 
 Chop fine half a pound each, of veal and bacon, both free 
 from skin, gristle, and rind ; season well with salt, pepper, 
 a little allspice, and grated nutmeg; add six sage-leaves 
 well chopped, a teaspoonful of marjoram, and four blanched 
 and finely-shred onions; pound these well together in a 
 mortar, and place it in a stewpan with two ounces of 
 melted butter; stir the contents over the fire for about 
 eight minutes, then add the yolks of four well-beaten eggs, 
 and continue the stirring and mixing for two or three 
 minutes longer, when the stuffing is ready for use. 
 
 271. CHICKEN FORCEMEAT FOR QUENELLES, 
 
 Proceed for this forcemeat as in the previous number ; 
 glaze the boned meat of a chicken in the same manner, but 
 add the chicken's liver five minutes sooner; then pound 
 and pass it through a sieve in the same way. 
 
 272. ANOTHER CHICKEN FORCEMEAT. 
 
 Pound in a mortar half a pound of raw chicken-breast, 
 free from skin and fat ; add to it three spoonfuls of cold 
 Bechamel sauce, the white of an egg, season with salt and 
 a little nutmeg, rub it through a sieve with a little panada, 
 and put by ready for use. 
 
 273. GAME FORCEMEAT. 
 
 Follow the same instructions for this forcemeat as for the 
 veal, but substitute three ounces of fat bacon or ham for 
 
126 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 the udder and hare-flesh or venison instead of veal, and 
 when browning in butter add a glass of sherry or Marsala 
 and a bay-leaf, which must be taken out of the stewpan 
 and thrown away ; when the meat is cooked, then pound 
 ' it in the mortar, pass it through a wire sieve, and store 
 away as before. 
 
 274. CALF'S LIVER FORCEMEAT. 
 
 Cut in small slices half a pound of fresh calf's liver, 
 wash in water, and dry them afterwards with a cloth-; fry 
 them in a stewpan with an ounce of butter for a few 
 minutes ; moisten with veal broth and simmer till the liver 
 is well cooked ; pour the contents in a mortar, and let it 
 get cold ; then pound it with a trufile cut in dice, half a 
 pound of raw liver, cleaned as aforesaid, one pound of 
 mashed potatoes, the yolks of three eggs and a whole one ; 
 salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste. When well pounded and 
 mixed together rub it through a wire sieve into a basin, 
 and put by in a cool place. 
 
 275. RAW FISH FORCEMEAT. 
 
 Clean, cut, and bone about one pound of either cod, 
 turbot, sole, whiting, pike, brill, or any other fish that may 
 be had ; pound these raw pieces in a mortar, add six ounces 
 of panada, the yolks of four eggs, and a quarter of a pound 
 of butter, and season with salt and grated nutmeg. When 
 the- lot is well pounded together rub it through a wire 
 sieve into a basin, then mix it with two tablespoonfula of 
 Veloutd sauce, and put it in a cool place ready to be made 
 into quenelles. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 127 
 
 276. ANOTHER FISH FORCEMEAT. 
 
 Prepare one pound and a half of fish as in No. 275 ; fry 
 the half of it in a stewpan with three ounces of butter and 
 two shalots, chopped fine, for six or eight minutes j stir the 
 while to give it a good turn all round ; after which, let it get 
 cold. Then pound it in a mortar, with the other half of 
 raw fish, add six ounces of mashed potatoes and one ounce 
 of butter to it, season with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, 
 and complete the mixture with an ounce of grated cheese 
 sprinkled over it, and three eggs well beaten. When the 
 whole is well pounded and properly mixed, rub it through 
 a wire sieve into a basin, and keep it in a cool place till 
 wanted. 
 
 277. LOBSTER FORCEMEAT. 
 
 Shell the meat out of one or two cooked lobsters, cut in 
 small dice, and pound it well in a mortar with two ounces of 
 butter ; add four ounces of panada, three ounces of butter, 
 three eggs well beaten, a spoonful of Allemande sauce, a 
 small pinch of cayenne, salt, and grated nutmeg to taste, 
 a,nd about half a pound of mashed potatoes ; pound the lot 
 properly, and mix it well in the mortar. Rub it through 
 a wire sieve with a wooden spoon, in the usual way, into a 
 basin, and put it by in a cool place till wanted. 
 
 Note. — Forcemeat should be used the same day it is made, 
 especially fish forcemeat. 
 
 The proper mode of forming forcemeat into quenelles for 
 soups is as follows : — Make a paper funnel, put some of the 
 forcemeat in it, close the top by folding the paper down, so 
 as to enclose the forcemeat, cut the point of the funnel to 
 the size required to shape the quenelles, and squeeze the 
 forcemeat out upon a saut6-pan previously buttered, taking 
 
128 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 care to keep some of the forcemeat in the funnel, in order 
 to enable you to put some more stuffing into it, without 
 being compelled to make another funnel. These quenelles, 
 however, must differ in this much, that those made for 
 soups should be smaller and lighter than those intended 
 for garnishing entries and other dishes. 
 
 Remaeks on Garnishing in General, and on Truffles 
 AND Mushrooms in Particular. 
 
 Garnishing in cookery is principally made of vegetables, 
 prepared and cooked in different ways, and like sauces, 
 plays a great part in high-class cookery. In my attempt, 
 however, to give a great variety, the fact must not be lost 
 sight of, that the majority of them are within everybody's 
 reach, as they include vegetables in general use, cooked 
 with the meat and served around it. 
 
 The most expensive item in a garnish is the truffle, a 
 kind of tuber very highly appreciated on account of its 
 aromatic flavour. The months in which it is at its best 
 are November, December, and January; but it can, never- 
 theless, be obtained nearly all the year round. 
 
 The best truffles imported fresh into this country are 
 black, and come from Perigord (France), but unless properly 
 surrounded by mould from which they have been dug, they 
 are subject to lose their very fragrance which endears them 
 so much to epicures. The white Piedmontese truffles have 
 a very high reputation for delicacy, scent, and flavour, but 
 (unhappily for English epicures) they cannot bear a long 
 journey or perhaps such a change of climate. 
 
 The use of preserved truffles cannot be advocated, as 
 their original perfume is nearly all lost. There are in this 
 country plenty of fresh mushrooms, gathered daily in fields 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 129 
 
 and woods for about eight months in the year, that might 
 be turned to better advantage, and be in many instances a 
 very good substitute for tinned truiHes. 
 
 278. GARNISH OF CHESNUTS. 
 
 Peel off the first skin of fifty chesnuts, boil the ches- 
 nuts in water for five or six minutes, strain off the water, 
 remove the second skin, and fry them in a saute-pan with 
 two ounces of butter for a few minutes ; after which, add 
 half a pint of good broth, let them simmer till cooked, 
 giving an occasional toss to the pan, and when glazed all 
 round, serve with a roast turkey or goose. 
 
 279. GARNISH OF LETTUCES. 
 
 Plainly cooked as well as stuffed lettuces are served as a 
 garnish with or without being glazed. In either case cook 
 the lettuces as directed in soups 42 and 43. 
 
 280. GARNISH OF GLAZED ONIONS. 
 
 Peel a dozen small onions of a similar size ; put them in 
 a well-buttered saut^-pan with nearly a pint of good broth 
 and a little sugar, let them simmer gently by the side of 
 the fire, taking care to often turn the onions over, so as to 
 give them an even colour all round, and when well glazed 
 and properly cooked, serve them with braized meat. 
 
 28L GARNISH OF MACEDOINE BECHAMEL. 
 Blanch in the usual way in separate waters two carrots, 
 three turnips, twenty-five asparagus-heads, a good handful 
 
I30 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 each, of peas and French beans, and three branches off the 
 top of a cauliflower; strain off the different waters, cut 
 the carrots and turnips in small fancy shapes, the French 
 beans and asparagus in small diamonds; put the whole 
 in a saut6-pan with half a pint of Bechamel sauce, two 
 tablespoonfuls of chicken gravy, two ounces of butter, a 
 piece of sugar, and a little grated nutmeg ; set the saut6- 
 pan on the fire, simmer gently till the vegetables are 
 properly glazed, then serve with veal cutlets, &o. 
 
 282. GARNISH OF CELERY, 
 
 Clean and cut in pieces of about half an inch long, four 
 large heads of celery; blanch these in boiling salt water 
 for five minutes, strain, and immerse in cold water, and 
 lay them on a cloth. When nicely dried put them in a 
 saute-pan with half a pint of broth, an ounce of butter, 
 a piece of sugar, a little grated nutmeg, and salt to taste ; 
 boil, and then simmer for about an hour ; add two table- 
 spoonfuls of chicken gravy, see that the celery gets pro- 
 perly glazed, and serve. 
 
 Note. — ^If this garnish is required for poultry, add some 
 Bechamel sauce and a gill of cream. 
 
 283. GARNISH OF NEW CARROTS. 
 
 Turn into pear-shape a bunch of new carrots, keeping 
 them as much as possible of the same size; blanch for 
 three or four minutes, strain the water, and put them 
 in a saute-pan with an ounce of butter, a pinch of sallt, and 
 a little sugar ; moisten with half a pint of good broth ; let 
 the saute-pan boil, simmer to a nice glaze, taking care to 
 roll the carrots in it, and when ready use them to garnish 
 the intended dish. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 131 
 
 284. GARNISH OF TURNIPS. 
 
 Peel six turnips, cut or turn them into fancy shapes, 
 boil ior five minutes in salt water, drain, and when dried 
 throw them into a saute-pan with an ounce of butter, 
 a pinch of salt, and a small piece of sugar ; moisten with 
 half a pint of veal broth, let the pan boil, and when nearly 
 cooked boil quickly down to a glaze, without letting the 
 turnips acquire much colour, and serve as a garnish. 
 
 285. GARNISH OF CUCUMBER. 
 
 Peel two or three cucumbers ; cut them in slices of the 
 thickness of half a crown ; put them in a large dish, sprinkle 
 over a tablespoonful of salt, and moisten with vinegar; 
 let them remain in this pickle for about two hours; 
 after which, strain on a sieve and place in a saut6-pan 
 with half an ounce of butter, half a pint of good broth, 
 and a piece of sugar; set the pan to simmer gently for 
 half an hour, then boil quickly to a glaze ; when well done, 
 add half a pint of either Btehamel, Allemande, or Supreme 
 sauce, as the case may be. 
 
 286. GARNISH OF STEWED PEAS. 
 
 Blanch a quart of new peas for five or six minutes, drain 
 and put them into a stewpan with four ounces of fresh 
 butter, a little sugar, a pinch of salt, an onion, and a small 
 faggot composed of mint and spring onions. Set the 
 stewpan, with the cover on, on a moderate fire for the peas 
 to stew, and when cooked boil quickly for a few minutes 
 in order that they may absorb all their moisture ; then add 
 a spoonful of B6chamel sauce, with a little butter, and dish 
 them up with any entree. 
 
132 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 287. GARNISH OF ASPARAGUS-POINTS. 
 
 Cut the points of as many asparagus as may be required, 
 boil them in salt water and strain through a colander; 
 when dried, throw them in a saute-pan with an ounce of 
 butter or a spoonful of Allemande sauce, a little sugar, 
 nutmeg, and a tablespoonful of good gravy; toss them 
 gently over the fire, and serve. 
 
 288. GARNISH OF BUTTON ONIONS FOR MATELOTTE. 
 
 Peel a pint of button onions ; blanch in salt water for 
 five minutes; strain and put them in a saut6-pan with 
 two ounces of clarified butter and a little pounded sugar. 
 Set the saute-pan on a moderate fire, to fry the onions to 
 a light-brown colour, taking care to toss them up now 
 and then, that they may be equally coloured ; when they 
 are nearly done place on a sieve to drain the butter off, 
 return them afterwards to a small stewpan with a gill 
 of broth, boil on a brisk fire, and reduce to a glaze before 
 serving! 
 
 289. GARNISH OF BROAD BEANS. 
 
 Boil till cooked one quart of fresh Windsor beans, peel 
 off their skin and place them in a saut^-pan with a pinch 
 of pepper, salt, and nutmeg, half an ounce of butter, a 
 spoonful of Bechamel sauce, arid the same quantity of 
 blanched and chopped parsley ; shake and toss the lot well 
 together on the fire, and serve in the centre of an entree. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 133 
 
 290. GARNISH OF FRENCH BEANS. 
 
 Cut a pound of French beans in diamond-shape pieces, 
 boil them in salt water, strain, and put in a stewpan with 
 an oimce of butter, a pinch of peppei', salt to taste, a spoon- 
 ful of white sauce, and a little lemon-juice ; toss the lot 
 well together on the fire, and serve as above. 
 
 291. GARNISH OF BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 
 
 Pick and wash one pint of Brussels sprouts, boil them 
 in plenty of salt water till well done, strain and toss in a 
 saut6-pan with two ounces of butter, a small pinch of 
 pepper, a tablespoonful of white sauce, a little grated nut- 
 meg, and the juice of half a lemon, and serve. 
 
 292. GARNISH OF CAULIFLOWER. 
 
 Cut the cauliflowers into small heads, dip in salt water 
 for half an hour, then blanch them in the usual way ; drain 
 and boil in another saucepan with salt and a little butter, 
 and moisten with white broth. 
 
 Cauliflowers for garnishing should not be too much 
 cooked ; if so, they break in the dishing-up. 
 
 293. GARNISH OF JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. 
 
 Peel a dozen Jerusalem artichokes, cut in fancy shapes, 
 immerse in cold water to wash them well, then straia 
 and put them in a stewpan with half an ounce of butter, 
 half a pint of white broth, a little sugar and salt to taste. 
 Boil for about twenty minutes, reduce down to a glaze, 
 add a spoonful or two of Bechamel or AUemande sauce, 
 toss over the fire well together, and serve. 
 
134 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 294. GARNISH OF WHITE HARICOT BEANS. 
 
 Take a pint of white haricot beans that have been soak- 
 ing in water the whole of the, previous night ; place these 
 in a stewpan with two quarts of cold water and a little 
 salt; let boil, and simmer gently by the side of the fire 
 for about an hour, strain them through a colander, put 
 them in a saut6-pan with an ounce of butter, two table- 
 spoonfuls of white sauce, salt and pepper to taste, the 
 juice of half a lemon, and a spoonful of blanched and 
 cTiopped parsley ; shake and toss the lot well together on 
 the fire, and serve. 
 
 295. GARNISH OF BRAIZED -CABBAGES. 
 
 Trim, wash, and thoroughly cleanse two good Savoy 
 cabbages ; cut them in halves and boil them in water for 
 fifteen minutes ; immerse them in cold water, then drain 
 and dry them with a cloth ; after which, cut the stalks 
 away, season them with salt and pepper, and tie the two 
 halves together with a string ; cover the bottom of a stew- 
 pan with six slices of fat bacon, place the cabbages on 
 them, with a carrot, an onion stuck with three cloves, and 
 a " bouquet garni ; " moisten with enough broth to cover 
 the cabbages, and spread a buttered round of paper over 
 the whole ; let the stewpan boil, cover the stewpan 
 with the lid, and let it simmer by the side of the fire for 
 about an hour ; then drain the cabbages on a sieve, remove 
 the string, press the cabbages gently with a dish or board 
 so as to make the top flat and enable them to be cut after- 
 wards into square, oblong, round, or oval shapes, according 
 to fancy or taste, and with them garnish the dish it is 
 intended. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 135 
 
 296. GARNISH OF STEWED RED CABBAGES. 
 
 Trim, wash, and quarter a couple of red cabbages, shred 
 them as if about to make pickled cabbage, then put about 
 four ounces of butter in a stewpan with the cabbages, 
 season with salt and pepper, add half a gill of vinegar, 
 cover the stewpan with its lid, and set it on a moderate 
 fire to simmer gently. Take care tcr give it an occasional 
 stir with a wooden spoon. When the cabbages have been 
 reduced to half their original quantity moisten with half 
 a pint of ordinary stock ; if there is any skimming from 
 the stock-pot, add it to it ; then let it again simmer for 
 an hour ; after which, drain the cabbages on a sieve, press 
 them in a clean cloth to extract the butter and fat, and 
 use them as a garnish. 
 
 297. GARNISH OF SAUERKRAUT. 
 
 Get two pounds of German sauer-kraut, wash it thoroughly 
 in several waters and drain in a colander, then put it in 
 a stewpan with one pound of streaky bacon, one quart of 
 broth, anJ one pint of the fat skimmed off the top of tho 
 stook-pot, with a pinch of pepper ; cover the stewpan with 
 its lid, let boil, and .simmer for at least four hours — if six, 
 all the better — then drain it and serve with the bacon. If 
 German sausages can be had, put half a dozen of them with 
 the bacon. 
 
 Note. — Sauer-kraut is better warmed up than when 
 freshly cooked, and the more it is cooked the better. 
 
 298. FRENCH SAUER-KRAUT. 
 
 Split the white hearts of four cabbages into quarters, 
 remove the cores, and shred them very fine; wash them 
 
136 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 thoroughly in several waters, and drain th«m well in a 
 colander ; when properly dried, put the shred cabbage in 
 a good-sized earthenware pan, throw in a good handful of 
 salt, about a dozen pepper-corns, and a pint of good French 
 vinegar ; toss, with your hands, the cabbage in this, and 
 let it remain for four hours ; after which, take out, wash 
 it well, and drain properly on a sieve j then put it in a 
 stewpan with half a pound of butter, season with salt and 
 pepper, add a gill of good vinegar, a pound of streaky 
 bacon cut in slices and laid on the top; moisten with a 
 quart of good broth, cover the lot with a buttered paper, 
 and set the stewpan boiling with its lid on, let the contents 
 simmer for about three hours, then proceed to strain and 
 serve as above. 
 
 299. GARNISH OF TRUFFLES IN GLAZE. 
 
 Cut about half a pound of truffles into various fancy 
 shapes, put these into a small stewpan with an ounce of 
 fresh butter, a pinch of salt, and a piece of glaze or a gill 
 of condensed gravy, or same quantity of No. 4 gravy, 
 cover the stewpan with its lid and let it simmer for ten 
 minutes, toss the truffles in the stewpan with their own 
 glaze, and use them to garnish as required by adding a 
 little Supreme or any other sauce. 
 
 300. TRUFFLES IN MADEIRA, SHERRY, OR CHAM- 
 PAGNE AS A GARNISH. 
 
 Cook the truffles in half a pint of the wine selected for 
 five minutes, then proceed as above. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 137 
 
 301. GARNISH OF MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Clean, peel, trim and cut away the gritty part near the 
 stalk of a pound of fresh mushrooms, which must be 
 white, full, and firm, or simply cut away the gritty part as 
 above of a pint of tinned mushrooms, put them in a basin 
 of cold water, stalks included, rinse well, dry with a 
 cloth, and throw them into a stewpan with an ounce of 
 butter, a pinch of salt, the juice of a lemon, and a gill of 
 broth, boil gently for five or six minutes, then pour the 
 mushrooms into a bain-marie containing half a pint of 
 Allemande sauce to keep hot till wanted. 
 
 This garnish is proper for all white entries, &c. If a 
 brown garnish of mushrooms is required, substitute Espag- 
 nole sauce for Allemande, and omit the lemon-juice. 
 
 302. GARNISH OF MUSHROOMS WITH WINE. 
 
 Mushrooms can also be cooked in wine, in the same 
 manner as trufiles, and the sauce completed as in No. 301, 
 to be used as a white or brown sauce. 
 
 303. GARNISH OF COCKS-COMBS. 
 
 Put one pound of cocks-combs in a stewpan with enough 
 water to cover them ; set the stewpan on a brisk fire and 
 stir with a wooden spoon till the skin begins to rise ; then 
 pour in some cold water to stop the boiling of the combs 
 and take them out ; strip off the skin and trim the part 
 which has been cut from the head, so as to free it of all 
 feathers; soak the combs in salted water for six hours; 
 after which, immerse them in cold water, which must be 
 frequently changed, until they become perfectly white ; 
 
138 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 then strain off the water, put the combs in a stewpan with 
 a pint and a half of broth, salt to taste and the juice of a 
 lemon, boil till cooked, and serve with the sauce required. 
 
 Note. — Be careful not to boil the combs after the skin 
 rises, otherwise the blood will coagulate and prevent them 
 being white. 
 
 304. GARNISH OF CHICKEN'S LIVER. 
 
 Trim and throw away the bitter part of four chickens' 
 livers, leave these whole, and immerse them in boiling 
 water ; take them out of the boiling water at once to put 
 them in a saucepan with some good beef or chicken gravy, 
 a little white wine, a small faggot of thyme and parsley, 
 and season with salt and pepper to taste; boil and let 
 simmer till cooked, when they must be taken out, strained, 
 cut in slices, and served with their liquor reduced to a nice 
 glaze. 
 
 305. GARNISH OF PRAWNS WITH CURRY. 
 
 Pick the tails of one pound of good prawns and use 
 them as a garnish with three tabl.espoonfuls of Indian 
 sauce poured over them with or without rice. 
 
 306. GARNISH OF MUSSELS. 
 
 Scrape and wash in several waters the shells of two 
 quarts of small mussels (the smallest are the most delicate), 
 boil one quart at a time in a pint of French white wine 
 with an onion sliced, three sprigs of parsley, salt and 
 pepper to taste. Cover the stewpan, toss the mussels occa- 
 sionally, and when the shells open the mussels are done ; 
 take them out of the stewpan, throw the second quart in, 
 and boil in the same manner. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD "COOKERY.. 139 
 
 The cooking of a quart of mussels at a time is advisable, 
 because, in the first instance, a pint of wine is saved, 
 and the mussels are done more evenly than they would if 
 they were all cooked in the pan at once. Be also careful in 
 not letting them cook after the shells open, as they will 
 only harden and shrink. 
 
 When both quai-ts of mussels are cooked, take them out 
 of the shells with a pointed knife and serve them with a 
 white sauce made hot. 
 
 307. SALPICON A L'lTALIENNE. 
 
 Chop fine two sweetbreads, one pound of fresh mushrooms, 
 and half a pound of cooked ham free from gristle and fat, 
 then mix this compound well together, with half a pint of 
 Finaneifere sauce. 
 
 Salpicon is the culinary name for a mixture of cooked 
 chicken, game, tongue, or fish with trufiles, mushrooms, 
 and '■' foie-gras," the whole cut in small dice, and served 
 hot, either in' patties, small bouch^es, or made into cro- 
 quettes. 
 
 308. SALPICON A LA PALERME. 
 
 Mix with half a pint of hot Napolitaine sauce a quarter 
 of a pound of cooked macaroni cut in small pieces, the 
 breast of a cooked partridge, two or three cocks-combs, the 
 hearts of four cooked artichokes, and two ounces of cooked 
 ham all chopped fine and well mixed together. 
 
 309. SALPICON A LA ROYALE. 
 
 Mix well together, in equal parts, after being- chopped 
 fine, some foie-gras, chicken meat, mushrooms, sweetbreads, 
 
I40 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 a little crayfish or lobster butter, and the necessarj' 
 Bechamel sauce, which must be boiling at the time of 
 mixing. 
 
 310. SALPICON A LA FINANCIJ^RE. 
 
 Chop fine two truffles, the breast of a cooked chicken, 
 two ounces of cooked pickled tongue, and four ounces of 
 fresh mushrooms ; then mix with Financiere sauce, and 
 boil for a few minutes. 
 
 311, SALPICON A LA TOULOUSE. 
 
 Mix in equal parts, with half a pint of hot Velout6 sauce, 
 some chicken and goose livers, mu.shrooms, and cocks-combs 
 all chopped fine. 
 
 312. SALPICON A LA JCHASSEUR. 
 
 Mix with a salmi sauce the fillets of any game cut in 
 small dice. 
 
 313, SALPICON OF OYSTERS. 
 
 Blanch the oysters for a few minutes, drain, and pre- 
 pare in the usual way ; cut them in two and mix with a 
 reduced Velout6 sauce ; add a few spoonfuls of the liquor 
 in which they were cooked, and the juice of a lemon. 
 
 314. SALPICON OF LOBSTER OR CRAB. 
 
 Cut either the cooked lobster or crab in small dice; 
 add these to a Bechamel or Velout^ sauce with a little 
 lobster butter; season slightly with pepper, and mix well 
 with a few chopped mushrooms. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 141 
 
 315. SALPICON A LA MONGLAS. 
 
 Mix with a reduced Veloute or Espagnole sauce the 
 breast of a chicken, chopped up with truffles. 
 
 316, SALPICON VALENCIENNES. 
 
 Prepare a mixture of hearts of artichokes, mushrooms, 
 the breast of a chicken, one carrot, the tails of two dozen 
 prawns, or part of the tail of a lobster, all cooked ; add four 
 tablespoonfuls of cooked rice; chop the lot fine, and mix 
 with a Veloute sauce and a little cayenne butter. 
 
 Observation with respect to French Words in 
 Bills of Fare. 
 
 I may say here, without prejudice, that I find the greatest 
 difiiculty in translating certain culinary names into English. 
 Although iny object is to be understood by all classes, I 
 am often compelled to use original French words; being in 
 many instances quite at a loss to express their proper 
 meaning in English. This matter of using French names 
 in " bills of fare" has often been discussed, and as it is 
 still a subject of controversy in the culinary world, I simply 
 give my reason for the practice I have adopted. 
 
CHAPTEE VI. 
 
 REMARKS ON FRYING. 
 
 TiiEEE are two ways of frying in England, the dry method 
 (in French called saut6), as when you fry an onion or an 
 omelet ; and the wet method, as when the article fried is 
 immersed in the boiling fat and swims in it. 
 
 The former is generally done in a frying, stew, or sautd 
 pan with butter ; the latter in a f rying-kettle and drainer, 
 with fat or dripping, lard or oil. Fat skimmed off Kroth 
 and the light- coloured dripping of roast-beef properly clari- 
 fied, are the cheapest and best items as a fat for frying 
 purposes. When these are running short the following is 
 the proper mode of obtaining some : — Mince and put in a 
 frying-kettle any beef, mutton, veal, and chicken fat that 
 you may have, with a little water, salt, pepper, and a bay- 
 leaf ; set the frying-kettle on the fire and let it simmer till 
 the fat is properly melted, taking care to stir occasionally. 
 When the fat is clear enough to enable you to see the 
 bottom of the pan, draw it away from the fire, and pass 
 through a cloth and into the frying kettle again, as it is 
 now ready for use. 
 
 For good cooking, oil should always be used for frying 
 fish only, and be kept apart in a special frying-kettle for 
 that purpose, but careful attention- is needed in warming 
 it, which should be done on a slow fire for half an hour, to 
 prevent its rising and boiling over. 
 
 When the frying fat becomes of a dark-brown colour it 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 143 
 
 must be clarified, which process is obtained by melting 
 of the fat with water, or strained into hot water, when all 
 the impurities will fall to the bottom of the kettle, and the 
 clarified fat, once cold, can easily be removed in a solid 
 state from the top of the water. 
 
 When the fat has nearly attained a black colour, from 
 constant use, it must not be employed again, as it will give 
 bad taste and colour to everything fried in it, owing to its 
 being decomposed, and having lost all its frjdng properties. 
 
 No pains should be spared by cooks in order to thoroughly 
 understand the proper means of frying, for although very 
 simple and easy in its way, it requires a great deal of 
 attention.. 
 
 Frying is a special feature in Italian cookery, and 
 practised above all others as an art, by the Italians. Their 
 ingenuity and abilities at frying are, I must say, superior 
 to all other nations. In the first instance, it is of the 
 utmost importance that the different degrees of tempera- 
 ture in the fat should previously be ascertained by the 
 cooks, whose attempts at frying will otherwise often turn 
 out failures. 
 
 There are many degrees of heat and boiling among 
 the different liquids. Water boils at a temperature of 
 212° Fahrenheit, and will never reach a higher one. Fat 
 and oil will attain from 500° to 650° before coming to the 
 boiling-point; this is the reason why fat is used instead 
 of water. If the same tempei-ature could be obtained with 
 water as with fat, frying would be better in the former, as 
 there would be no greasy taste. 
 
 The different degrees of heat are generally determined 
 by throwing a small sprig of parsley or a piece of crumb 
 of bread the size of a small nut into the fat ; if ebullition 
 and fizzing is at once produced and large bubbles rise to the 
 surface, the fat has reached the desired temperature for 
 
144 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 frying purposes, which will be about 385° Fahrenheit. A 
 too high temperature must be avoided, which will be in- 
 dicated by smoke rising from the kettle ; in that case the 
 articles fried would be blackened and burnt ; on the other 
 hand, if the fat has not reached the proper temperature 
 the things intended for frying will be soaked through with 
 fat, soddened, greasy, and of a dirty pale colour, but not 
 fried. 
 
 Properly fried things should be of a golden colour, 
 crisp, and free from fat j to obtain the latter, fried articles 
 should be put on a clean cloth as they are taken out of the 
 frying-kettle, and then turned over. 
 
 Frying is most successful when a small quantity is put 
 at a time, otherwise the reaction of too many cold things 
 will cause the fat fall below the necessary temperature and 
 spoil the frying process. All articles to be fried should be 
 properly dried between the folds of a clean cloth and passed 
 through a mixture of breadings (if' batter is not used) 
 beforehand. 
 
 317. BATTER PASTE FOR FRYING. 
 
 Batter is a thin paste often required for frying fish, 
 meat, vegetables, and fruit. 
 
 Put half a pound of white sifted flour into a basin with 
 a little salt, white pepper, the yolks of two eggs (save the 
 whites), a spoonful of vinegar or the juice of a lemon, and 
 half a gill of olive-oil ; work the whole into a double creamy 
 paste, adding in, a spoonful at a time, about half a pint of 
 cold water ; when properly worked let it stand by. Mean- 
 while whisk well the two whites of egg set apart, and mix 
 with the batter a few minutes before it is wanted. 
 
 For fritters, white wine or beer can be substituted for 
 water, and add a little pounded cinnamon. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 145 
 
 \R,EMARKS ON HoES-D'OEuVRES OR SiDE DiSHES. 
 
 Hors-d'oeuvres, or side dishes, are tasty dainties, the 
 object of which' is to stimulate and sharpen the appetite, 
 and they are served and eaten either before or after the 
 soup. These are divided into two parts, the cold and hot 
 hors-d'oeuvres ; the former are usually prepared and dished 
 up in small oval dishes, decorated with parsley and put 
 on the table by the butler ; but in smaller establishments 
 where the duties of that office are discharged by female 
 servants it invariably falls upon the cook to dress up these 
 decorative dishes, which generally consist of salami, a kind 
 of raw Italian or Lyons sausage, fresh butter, slices of ham, 
 sardines, tunny-fish, anchovies, radishes, olives, gherkins, 
 smoked herrings or salmon, melon, foie-gras, caviare, 
 oysters, &&, &c. 
 
 The hot hors-d'oeuvres are very numerovis and far more 
 complicated than the cold ones, the majority of which are 
 more substantial, and in many instances differ but slightly 
 from "entries." These are served directly after the soup, 
 and are composed of many items, such as patties and 
 bouchees of all description, croustades, coquilles, rissoles, 
 croquets, cromeskis, mixed fritters, such as brains, liver, 
 sweetbread, scollops, &c., &c. 
 
 318. PATTIES WITH ANY SALPICON OR FORCEMEAT. 
 
 Patties and bouchees are made out of puff paste, and the 
 following is the proper mode of making them : — 
 
 Put one pound of sifted flour on the- pastry slab ; make 
 a well in the centre of the flour, and pour in it one gill 
 and a half of cold water, with half an oupce of salt and 
 
 K 
 
146 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 the yolk of an egg. Mix these gradually with the flonr, 
 and when done, and the paste is about half-mixed, sprinkle 
 in another gill of water, mix all the flour and work it to 
 a smooth paste until it ceases to adhere to the slab or 
 hands ; then roll it out to a round piece. Now take one 
 pound of butter, put it in a clean cloth and press it, to 
 extract any milk or water it may contain ; lay the butter 
 on the paste, flatten both to a thickness of about two 
 inches, then fold the four sides of the paste to the centre 
 to enclose the butter and form a square piece. Next take 
 a rolling-pin, roll the paste with it to about the length 
 of three feet, fold over one-third of the length, and fold 
 the other third over this. 
 
 This is called "giving one turn,"^ and as it constantly 
 recurs in all recipes for making pastry, I deem it advisable 
 to give its meaning. 
 
 Let the paste rest for ten minutes on the slab in a cool 
 place, then give it two turns ; ten minutes after, two turns 
 more ; and five minutes after this, another turn, making 
 in all six turns. Then roll it out to about a quarter of 
 an inch thick. Take a one and three-quarter inch paste- 
 cutter, cut the paste with it into twenty-four rounds; 
 gather the trimmings into a lump, and roll it out to the 
 same thickness as the first; cut it also into twenty-four 
 similar rounds, place these on a wet baking sheet, moisten 
 the surface with a brush dipped in water, and put a small 
 quantity of salpicon or forcemeat, previously made, on 
 each ; then take up one of the first cut rounds and reverse 
 it on to the forcemeat, so as to cover it; repeat this till 
 all the patties are covered, press the two pieces of paste 
 lightly together with the top of a plain inch and a quarter 
 cutter, brush them over with the yolk of two eggs well 
 beaten, put them to bake in a brisk oven till they have 
 reached a nice golden colour, and serve. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 147 
 
 319. BOUCHi^ES A L'lTALIENNE. 
 
 Make two pounds of puff paste in the manner described 
 in the previous number, but give it seven turns, wetting 
 the last turn before folding it ; then roll the paste out so 
 as to leave it scarcely a quarter of an inch thick, and about 
 three minutes afterwards take a two-inch fluted circular 
 tin cutter, and with it cut the paste into bouchdes; but 
 previously to cutting out each bouch^e the cutter should 
 be first dipped in very hot water. As soon as the bouchees 
 are cut out place them immediately in rows, two inches 
 apart, on a baking sheet, previously wetted; then eg-g 
 them carefully all over with a soft brush dipped jn beaten 
 eggs, and stamp them in the centre by making a slight 
 incision through their surface with a plain inch and a half 
 circular cutter, which must also be dipped in hot water 
 each time it is used. The bouchees should then be quickly 
 put in the oven and baked of a light colour; when done 
 remove the covers or tops, pick out the inner crumb care- 
 fully with the point of a small knife, then fill up each 
 bouch^e with a salpicon k I'ltalienne, previously made hot, 
 replace the covers at the top, and serve dished "up on a 
 folded napkin. 
 
 320. BOUCHEES A LA PALERME. 
 
 Prepare the bouchees as in No. 319, and fill them up 
 afterwards with a salpicon k la Palermo. 
 
 321. BOUCHlfiES A LA ROYALE. 
 
 Proceed with the bouchees as described in No. 319, 
 then fill them up with a salpicon k la Royale previously 
 made hot. 
 
148 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 322. 
 
 Bouchdes k la Financifere, k la Toulouse, k la Chasseur, 
 with oysters, lobsters, crabs, h la Monglas, and k la 
 Valenciennes are all made in the same manner. 
 
 323. CROUSTADES A LA TOULOUSE. 
 
 Make a paste with one pound of sifted flour, a pound of 
 butter, the yolks of two beaten eggs, and a pinch of salt, 
 and mix these with about half a pint of water to a softish 
 paste. When quite smooth gather it up in a lump, and 
 let it rest on the ice for an hour ; after which, roll it out 
 to the sixteenth of an inch thick, and line eighteen small 
 croustade moulds with it ; fill these with flour and bake 
 them ; when the paste is done, and has attained a nice 
 straw-colour, take them out of the oven, turn the flour out, 
 brush the inside of the croustades with a brush, and put 
 them in the oven for two minutes longer to colour; then 
 till them with a salpicon k la Toulouse, pour a little Veloute 
 sauce over each, and place some puff-paste covers on each 
 top, previously made with " seven turns " paste, rolled to 
 a quarter of an inch thick, cut with a two-inch fluted cutter, 
 and baked as before. 
 
 Croustades, according to taste, can be varied with any 
 salpicon, 
 
 324. COqUILLES A LA CHASSEUR. 
 
 The natural shells of' scallops, if kept clean, are not 
 objectionable for this hors d'ceuvre, but the silver shells or 
 coquilles, as they are called, are to be preferred. 
 
 Fill the number of shells required with the salpicon 
 a la Chasseur, sprinkle the tops with fried bread-crumbs, 
 put them into the oven to warm, and serve. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 149 
 
 Proceed in the same way with any other sort of coquilles, 
 and if you have any fish left from the previous day's 
 dinner, bone it, cut it in small dice, and mix with a little 
 butter, the juice of a lemon, salt to taste, a little Veloute 
 sauce and essence of mushrooms, fill the shells with this 
 mixture, strew fried bread-crumbs over the tops, set them 
 in the oven to warm and brown, before serving. 
 
 325. RISSOLES OF CHICKEN. 
 
 Roll out some " six turns " puff paste to a quarter inch 
 thickness, cut out some rounds with a fluted three -inch 
 cutter, lay some chicken forcemeat the size of a walnut on 
 each round, place a round of paste over each forcemeat, 
 till they are all opycred, a.-jd press the edges so as to stick 
 them together. 
 
 Set the fiying-kettle on the fire, and when the fat is of 
 the right temperature fry the rissoles in it ; then drain and 
 dress them on a dish, on a folded napkin, garnish with 
 fried parsley, and sei-ve. 
 
 Any other forcemeat or salpicon can be turned into 
 rissoles by the same process. 
 
 326. CROQUETS OF LOBSTER. 
 
 Make some salpicon of lobster and lay flat with a knife 
 on a board, previously strewed with bread-crumbs ; then 
 divide the mixture in equal-sized parts and roll them with 
 the hand to the shape of a cork ; pass them afterwards in 
 breadings, and then in the bread-crumbs. 
 
 Set the frying-kettle on the fire ; when the fat is hot 
 enough, fry them till they are crisp and of a light-brown 
 colour ; drain on a cloth in the usual way ; sprinkle each 
 
ISO PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 with a little salt, put them on a napkin on a dish, and 
 garnish with a little fried parsley before serving. 
 
 Perigueux or Tomato sauce is generally servpd with 
 croquets. 
 
 Whatever kind of croquets may be wished for or re- 
 quired, their process is always the same. 
 
 ^27. CROMESKIS A LA RUSSE. 
 
 Chop up the fillets of a roast fowl into very small dice, 
 and put them on a plate with half their quantity of mush- 
 rooms and truffles also chopped fine; stir half a pint of 
 Bechamel or Allemande sauce over the fire until stiffly 
 reduced, then throw in the minced chicken mushrooms and 
 truffles ; mix the lot well together, then spread it out about 
 an inch thick on a dish and let it cool ; atteivwhich, cut the 
 mixture into pieces about the size of two walnuts, form 
 these into egg-shapes, and place them on a-ttish. Mean- 
 while have ready a calf's udder, previously braized for the 
 purpose, and cut when cold into very thin layers, just large 
 enough to wrap each cromeski with ; then dip them ia some 
 light batter paste, and fry them crisp, and to a nice golden 
 colour, in plenty of lard, heated to the right temperature-, 
 fof the purpose; dish thein up with fried parsley and 
 serve hot. 
 
 Note. — Cromeskis can be made in the same manner with 
 any other salpicon. 
 
 yMoDE OF Peeparing Sweetbread, Brains, Liver, aud 
 Scollops op Yeal before Cooking them. 
 
 Whatever style of serving sweethread may be contem- 
 plated, they must always be Soaked in water for at least 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 151 
 
 three hours, taking care to change the water occasionally ; 
 after which, put them in a saucepan with plenty of cold 
 water, set the saucepan on the fire to boil, and as soon as 
 they become firm and round, without, however, being hard, 
 draw the saucepan away from the fire, immerse them in 
 cold water, then drain on a cloth and press them between 
 two boards or baking tins, with a four or five pound-weight 
 on the top. 
 
 Brains must steep in cold water for about an hour, 
 iluring which time the water must be changed twice, then 
 pick out most carefully all skinny particles from the 
 surface of the brains. Blanch them in boiling water for 
 five minutes and inimerse them in cold. 
 
 Ldver must be of a bright pinkish colour and entirely 
 free from whitish spots. Wash and wipe the quantity of 
 liver required, then out it into Scollops or slices of about 
 a quarter of an inch thick, and roll them in flour before 
 frying. 
 
 Scollops are generally cut off from the cushion of leg of 
 veal, previously freed from gristle, fat, and skin ; they are 
 cut in the same style and thickness as the liver, and should 
 be flattened with the chopper or cutlet bat, dipped in water, 
 before frying. 
 
 328. SWEETBREAD AND BRAINS FRIED A 
 L'lTALIENNE. 
 
 Take two sweetbreads and two brains, prepared as indi- 
 cated above, and cut each in scollops of about an inch thick. 
 Mix well in a dish, a gill of good oil, half a gill of vinegar, 
 and a pinch of salt ; soak the scollops in it for about half 
 an hour, then take them out and dip in some batter 
 paste, previously made for this purpose, and drop them 
 separately into the frying fat properly heated, and with 
 a flat skimmer toss up each scollop gently till they become 
 
152 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 of a. golden colour and crisp; then take them out, and 
 place on a clean cloth which will absorb all the fat ; 
 sprinkle some salt on each, dress them on a napkin on 
 a dish by placing alternately one brain scollop and one 
 sweetbread, decorate with a little fried parsley, and serve 
 as hot as possible. 
 
 329. ANOTHER FRIED SWEETBREAD, BRAIN AND 
 LIVER (ITALIAN). 
 
 Cut in the same manner as above one sweetbread and 
 two brains, after having soaked and blanched them as pre- 
 scribed ; cut also half a pound of liver in scollops ; pass 
 each in breadings and bread-crumbs. Put a quarter of a 
 pound of clarified butter in a frying-pan on the fire, fry 
 the scollops in it to a light-brown colour, then drain and 
 dry them on a cloth, squeeze the juice of a lemon over 
 them, sprinkle each with salt to taste, dish them up 
 alternately on a hot dish, and serve. 
 
 330. BRAINS FRIED (CITIZEN STYLE). 
 Prepare four brains in the usual way; after which, cut 
 them in slices of about half an inch thick. Beat the yolks 
 of six eggs in a basin, and mix with an ounce of grated 
 cheese, half an ounce of bread-crumbs, a pinch of salt, and 
 a little pepper; whisk the whites of the six eggs to a snow 
 froth. Put a quarter of a pound of clarified butter into 
 a large frying-pan on the fire, mix gently the whites of the 
 eggs with the yolks, and draw the pan away from the fire 
 when the butter is melted. Put the whole of the mixture, 
 a spoonful at a time, properly detached from each other, in 
 the frying-pan ; lay well imbedded in the centre of each 
 spoonful of the egg-mixture a slice of brains; set the pan 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 153 
 
 on the fire to fry for three minutes, then turn each com- 
 pound over and fry them for another three minutes ; when 
 of a nice golden colour on both sides, dish them with the 
 side of the brain up, sprinkle each with a little salt, and 
 serve very hot. 
 
 Note. — Any kind of cooked meat, poultry, or game can be 
 mixed with the eggs as well as the brains. A little minced 
 parsley and garlic mixed with the eggs will give a good 
 taste to the above items. 
 
 331. SWEETBREAD OR BRAINS FRIED (MILANAISE 
 STYLE), 
 
 Cut either the sweetbread or brains, after having been 
 duly blanched, as in No. 330. Beat six eggs in a basin with 
 a little finely chopped parsley and the clove of a garlic; 
 season with salt and pepper, when well beaten together 
 dip the slices in it, and roll them aftenyards in bread- 
 crumbs, and form thern in oval or round shapes. Put a 
 quarter of a pound of clarified butter into a frying-pan, and 
 when dissolved fry on a moderate fire, taking care to turn 
 them over so as to give each side a nice golden colour, 
 when they are cooked, and must be served hot. 
 
 332. LIVER FRIED A LA MILANAISE. 
 Take two pounds of calf's liver, cut it in scollops as 
 described, pass these in breadings and bread-crumbs, then 
 fry them in a frying-pan with a quarter of a pound of 
 clarified butter on a moderate fire, turn the pieces over 
 to give them a nice bronzed colour on both sides, and when 
 tender to the touch sprinkle some salt and a teaspoontul 
 of chopped parsley, squeeze the juice of a lemon over, and 
 serve. 
 
154 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 333. LIVER FRIED A LA PALERMO. 
 
 Scollop two pounds of calf's liver as No. 332, and flour 
 tliem, then fry in the same manner as in the foregoing, and 
 dress them on a hot dish. Leave the, frying-pan by the 
 side of the fire; chop very fine six fresh mushrooms, a 
 little parsley, and a clove of garlic ; put these in the frying- 
 pan with a glass of French white wine and a gill of good 
 broth ; season with salt and pepper, boil for five minutes, 
 then add the juice of a lemon, stir nicely, pour the sauce 
 over the Hver, and serve. 
 
 The liver of sheep, chickens, lambs, and pigs can also be 
 fried and garnished in the same way, but substitute a little 
 vinegar for wine. 
 
 334. VEAL SCOLLOPS FRIED A LA GENOISE. 
 
 Take two pounds of leg of veal, free from skin, fat, 
 and gristle, cut in scollops and fry them in the same 
 manner as in No. 333, but substitute oil for butter; after 
 which, prepare a similar mixture for the sauce, and serve. 
 
 Scollops of mutton, beef, and pork can also be fried, and 
 served with a similar sauce. 
 
 335, OYSTERS FRIED. 
 
 Blanch two dozen large oysters, press them lightly 
 between two dishes till they are cold ; then slit them open, 
 without quite severing them, dip in frying batter, and fry 
 in hot fat ; drain and pile on a napkin on a dish garnished 
 with fried parsley, and serve with Tomato sauce in a boat 
 apart. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 155. 
 
 336. FRIED ANCHOVIES. 
 
 Steep two dozen anchovies in cold water for about two 
 hours, or till they are easily opened, and bone them ; 
 wipe off the scales, by rubbing them with a coarse cloth ; 
 trim the anchovy fillets . to an even shape and steep in 
 milk for an hour, drain, wipe, and pass them through the 
 breadings J then fry in very hot fat, drain, and pile them 
 up on a napkin on a dish, garnish with fried parsley, and 
 serve with two lemons cut in quarters. 
 
CHAPTEE VII. 
 
 REMARKS ON TRIPE. 
 
 Tripe is a delicious dish when prepared properly, but it 
 must always be cleaned, scraped, and boiled in plenty of 
 water for several hours before any attempt at cooking 
 it can ever be contemplated. This of course only applies to 
 country places, where tripe can only be had in its raw state, 
 but in towns it can always be bought ready blanched. 
 
 337. TRIPE MILLANAISE. 
 
 Shred fine a carrot, an onion, and one head of celery ; 
 
 fry these in a stewpan with two ounces of butter ; when 
 
 nicely browned moisten them with half a pint of bi'oth, 
 
 add a " bouquet garni " composed of sage, thyme, and a 
 
 bay-leaf, simmer gently for half an hour ; then rub the 
 
 lot through a sieve, throw the bouquet away, and return 
 
 the sauce to the stewpan, with one pound and a half of 
 
 tripe, previously shred in pieces about two inches long by 
 
 half an inch wide ; add a good rasher of streaky bacon 
 
 or a slice of gammon cut in small dice, season with salt 
 
 and" pepper, moisten the lot with a pint of broth, and let 
 
 it simmer for half an hour ; stir occasionally with a wood en 
 
 spoon, then add a ladleful of Espagnole sauce, st\r and 
 
 when boiling serve on a hot dish, with grated ct^eese on a 
 
 plate apart. 
 
 156 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 157 
 
 338. TRIPE A LA ROMAINE. 
 
 Take one pound and a half of cleaned and blanched tripe, 
 cut it in about two-inch squares ; put these in a sauce- 
 pan with a pint and a half of good gravy or condensed 
 broth, season with salt and pepper, add a bay-leaf, and let 
 simmer for three-quarters of an hour on a slow fire, give 
 it an occasional stir, and serve on a hot dish with grated 
 cheese apart. 
 
 339. TRIPE A L'lTALIENNE. 
 
 Proceed in the same manner as for the Milanaise. 
 Peel two tomatoes ; squeeze out the water and rub them 
 through a sieve ; add this pur^e to the tripe at the same 
 time as the broth, and let it simmer for half an hour ; 
 then pour in half a pint of green peas, a few fresh mush- 
 rooms cut in slices, season with salt and pepper, simmer 
 again for twenty minutes, stir occasionally, and serve with 
 grated cheese apart. 
 
 340. TRIPE (CITIZEN STYLE). 
 
 Fry in a stewpan with two ounces of butter one onion 
 shred fine, a clove of garlic chopped very fine, and a slice 
 of gammon cut in small dice ; when these are properly 
 browned sprinkle over three tablespoonfuls of flour, stir 
 with a wooden spoon, and fry for two or three minutes 
 longer; then add one pint of broth, same quantity of 
 French white wine, a small "bouquet garni," and two 
 pounds of tripe cut in slices, as in the Milanaise. Boil, 
 stir nicely, add salt and pepper to taste, cover the stewpan 
 and let it simmer for an hour, giving it an occasional stir 
 to prevent burning; then take out the "bouquet garni," 
 
158 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 sprinkle two handfuls of grated cheese over the contents, 
 stir it well, and serve on a hot dish with a little more grated 
 cheese sprinkled on the top of it. 
 
 One or two calves' feet properly boiled and boned will 
 improve this dish if added at the same time as the tripe. 
 
 341. TRIPE A LA LYONNAISE. 
 
 Melt three ounces of butter in a frying-pan, add three 
 onions shred fine, and when beginning to brown put with 
 it one pound and a half of tripe, cut as in No. 340 ; stir 
 with a wooden spoon, fry for about twenty minutes, season 
 with salt and pepper, and just before serving sprinkle a 
 little finely chopped parsley with a few drops of French 
 vinegar ; stir well, and serve on a hot dish. 
 
 This tripe when cooked should be crisp and of a light- 
 brown colour. 
 
 342. TRIPE AND ONIONS. 
 
 Cook six onions in salt water; wheh done squeeze the 
 water out of them and chop-them fine. Meantime boil one 
 pound and a half of tripe (cut as in the foregoing) in a pint 
 and a half of fresh milk, and after an hour's ebullition, 
 having given it an occasional stir to prevent the tripe 
 burning, mix the onions with it, season with salt, pepper, 
 and a little grated nutmeg, boil, stir, and serve. 
 
 343. ANOTHER TRIPE AND ONIONS. 
 
 Proceed as above, but instead of milk use veal broth. ' 
 
 344. TRIPE FRIED. 
 
 Shred in the same shape as in the foregoing two pounds 
 of tripe, dip these in frying batter and fry afterwards in 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 159 
 
 fat, properly heated for the purpose. When crisp and of a 
 nice light-brown colour, drain and serve on a hot dish, with 
 a little tomato sauce in a sauce-boat apart. 
 
 345. SHEEP'S KIDNEYS GRILLED. 
 
 Slit the kidneys lengthwise, without cutting through the 
 sinew, remove the thin skin which covers them, and run 
 them on a small skewer (two on 'each), then sprinkle with 
 a little salt and pepper ; place these on a grid- iron over a 
 clear fire with the open side downwards. When done brown 
 turn them over, and let them remain three minutes longer ; 
 after which, put them on a hot dish, draw the skewer 
 away, and lay on each kidney a little cold mattre d'hotel ov 
 cayenne butter, and serve. 
 
 346. SHEEP'S KIDNEYS STEWED WITH FINE HERBS. 
 
 Split the kidneys as before directed, cut them into thin 
 scollops, sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste, and fry 
 them brown in a frying-pan with a little butter ; then add 
 a tablespoonful each of chopped mushrooms and parsley, 
 and two shalots also chopped fine ; let the lot fry for a few 
 minutes longer; after which, sprinkle a tablespoonful of 
 flour and moisten with a glass of sherry ; let this simmer 
 for three minutes, then add two or three spoonfuls of brown 
 broth or gravy, simmer another five minutes, squeeze tlie 
 juice of a lemon, toss it up and mix well together, draw 
 the frying-pan away from the fire, form a border of mashed 
 potatoes on a dish, pour the kidneys in the centre, and 
 serve. 
 
i6o PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 34.7. SHEEP'S KIDNEYS STEWED A LA CLEREMONT. 
 
 Scollop and fry the kidney as in No. 346, and when 
 nicely browned draw the frying-pan by the side of the 
 fire. Meanwhile shred two onions and fry them in a stew- 
 pan, with two ounces of butter, to a fine yellow colour; 
 drain off the butter, add a pinch of pepper, a few spoon- 
 fuls of good broth, and a little Espagnole sauce ; boil ; skim, 
 and let simmer till properly reduced ; then mix it with the 
 kidneys, stir nicely with a wooden spoon, simmer for 
 three or four minutes, and serve with a border of potato 
 croquets. 
 
 348. VEAL KIDNEYS STEWED A LA ROMAINE. 
 
 Cut a veal kidney in half, remove the fat part and slice 
 the pieces very thin. Melt a quarter of a pound of butter 
 well in a frying-pan on a brisk fire, fry the pieces of 
 kidney in it, when about half-cooked add an onion and 
 a little parsley chopped very fine, sprinkle over, a table- 
 spoonful of flour, season with salt and pepper, continue 
 the frying for a few minutes longer, then add a glass of, 
 white wine, let simmer for a few minutes, and just before 
 serving squeeze the juice of a lemon over it, and toss the 
 contents well, and serve with a puree of vegetables. 
 
 349. VEAL KIDNEYS BROILED A LA L'INDIENNE. 
 
 Cut lengthwise a veal kidney in two, flatten these slightly 
 with the bat, season with salt and pepper, dip each piece 
 in oil, roll them afterwards in bread-crumbs, and broil four 
 minutes each side, on a good fire. Meanwhile prepare a 
 curry butter, garnish the brim of a dish round with plain 
 boiled rice, place the kidneys in the centre, put the curry 
 butter on it, and serve hot. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. i6i 
 
 350. BEEF KIDNEY A LA PIEMONTAISE. 
 
 Cut a beef kidney in two, trim it in the usual way, and 
 slice it in thin scollops, season with salt and pepper, dip 
 the scollops in batter, and fry with butter till of a brown 
 colour ; then serve with a garnish of fried parsley and 
 tomato sauce in a boat apart. 
 
 351. SHEEP'S TONGUES WITH SPINACH. 
 
 TaJse six fresh sheep's tongues ; blanch them for five 
 minutes, to enable the white skin to be removed; then 
 trim and put them in a saut6-pan with about a pint of 
 broth, a bay-leaf, a little thyme, season with salt and 
 pepper; set the saut6-pan on the fire to the boil, and let 
 simmer until the tongues are well cooked and nicely glazed ; 
 then take them out, cut them lengthways in halves and 
 return them to the saut6-pan. Meantime dish some puree 
 of spinach, previously made for this purpose ; decorate the 
 dish with fried croutons, place the pieces of tongue over 
 the spinach nicely arranged, pour the remainder of the 
 glaze over them, and serve. 
 
 352. SHEEP'S TONGUES WITH GHERKIN SAUCE. 
 
 Blanch, trim, cook, and dish up six sheep's tongues, as 
 in No. 351, then pour some Gherkin sauce (No. 192) in 
 the centre, and serve. 
 
 353. SHEEP'S TONGUES A LA NAPOLITAINE. 
 
 Braize and trim the tongues as above, and when cut 
 in halves let them get cold, then pass them through the 
 
 L 
 
i62 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 breadings, flatten them nicely with the blade of a knife 
 and fry them in fat, properly heated for the purpose ; drain 
 in the usual way, and dish them up in the form of a close 
 circle, the centre of which must be filled with macaroni 
 (No. 88), and serve. 
 
 354. SHEEP'S FEET, WITH OIL AND VINEGAR. 
 
 Chop very fine about two ounces of beef suet, and melt 
 it in a saucepan over the fire, and when clear add two 
 ounces of flour, two quarts of water, one onion sliced, 
 a " bouquet garni," two cloves, a tablespoonful of vinegar, 
 and a little salt and pepper ; stir the lot over the fire, 
 and when boiling drop in it eight sheep's feet, previously 
 blanched, cleaned, and trimmed ; let them boil for about 
 three hours and a half, when they should be done, and 
 tender ; then strain, and put them on a dish with a sauce 
 made in the following manner : — Put in a basin a gill 
 of oil, half a gill of French vinegar, a teaspoonful of salt, 
 a good pinch of pepper, half a tablespoonful each of finely 
 chopped parsley and onion, beat the lot well together 
 before pouring it over the cooked feet, and serve. 
 
 Sheep's feet can also be served with a Sharp, Poulette, or 
 any other sauce. 
 
 355. CALF'S HEAD TOMATO SAUCE. 
 
 Select, according to the size required, a white calf's head, 
 cut it in two, dip these into boiling water to clean the ears 
 out, then bone them entirely, cut the tongue out, and put 
 the brains to steep in cold water ; soak the head and tongue 
 for a little while also in cold water, then blanch both in 
 bo.iling water for ten minutes ; strain, and take off the white 
 skin from the tongue ; put the two halves and tongue in a 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 163 
 
 clean cloth, with two or three slices of gammon, two sliced 
 onions, one shred carrot, one bay-leaf, and a few slices of 
 lemon, fold these together, and put the bundle into a large 
 saucepan with enough cold water to cover it well ; season 
 with salt, add a " bouquet garni," an onion with three 
 cloves stuck in, and one head of celery. Let the saucepan 
 boil, and then simmer for about three hours j after which, 
 take the cloth out, stretch the tongue so as to give it its 
 original shape, cut each half in four, keep the ears in 
 square pieces, wipe the inside of these nicely with a cloth, 
 and slit them with a pointed knife into narrow strips, 
 taking care hot to run the knife through the ends, but 
 merely from the inner part to within half an inch of the 
 point, so that when the ear is turned down it will present 
 the appearance of a looped frill. Now cut the tongue in 
 half, lengthways, without separating it altogether, dress 
 these on an oval dish on a napkin, with the ears at each 
 end and the pieces of head in the centre, decorate with 
 green parsley, and serve with a pint of tomato sauce in 
 a boat apart. 
 
 Calf's head can be served with oil and vinegar as for the 
 sheep's feet (No, 354), in which case add a tablespoo'nful of 
 capers and two very thinly sliced gherkias, and four hard- 
 boiled eggs cut in two. It can also be served with Italian, 
 Sharp, Eavigote, or Devilled sauce. 
 
 Note. — It is customary in this country to serve a piece 
 of boiled streaky bacon with the calf's head. Of this I 
 do not approve ; neither can I recommend the parsley and 
 butter sauce served with it, which is far too insipid. 
 
 356. CALF'S FEET FRIED, ITALIAN SAUCE. 
 
 Kemove the large bone of four calf's feet, cut them in 
 halves, blanch for ten minutes, then boil for about two 
 
i64 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 hours and a half in a liquor made as for the sheep's feet ; 
 when done bone them, cut each in four, dip these pieces 
 in a batter paste and fry in hot fat, in the usual way; 
 then serve the pieces dished up with some Italian sauce 
 apart. 
 
 Calf's feet can also be served h la poulette ; in that case, 
 when they are done, do not fry them, but warm about one 
 pint of Poulette sauce, and mix the pieces with it, and serve. 
 
 They can also be cut in halves, cooked as in the fore- 
 going, bread-crumbed, and broiled on a slow fire, and served 
 with a Tartare sauce apart. 
 
 357. OX-PALATE FRIED. 
 
 Blanch in boiling salt water for ten minutes four ox- 
 palates ; drain, cool and scrape to remove the white skin ; 
 when properly trimmed put them in a saucepan with one 
 quart of broth, two slices of gammon, and a "bouquet 
 garni ; " let them boil gently for about three hours ; then 
 drain the palates on a sieve and let them get cold. In 
 the meantime put a quart of Velout6 sauce in a stewpan 
 on the fire and reduce it to half its original quantity by 
 sharp boiling, then add the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, 
 scraped into crumbs, a tablespoonful of parsley previously 
 blanched and chopped very fine, salt and pepper to taste, 
 the juice of a lemon, and an ounce of butter ; mix these 
 well together, then draw the stewpan away from the fire. 
 
 Take the ox-palates and split them in halves length- 
 ways ; each of these must be cut across again in two and 
 placed on a large dish or board ; put with a spoon the 
 mixture prepared in the stewpan, properly divided on 
 each of the pieces of palate ; roll them up in the form of 
 cartridges, pass them afterwards in the breadings, and a 
 few minutes before serving fry them in the frying-kettle 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 165 
 
 with the fat previously heated very hot for the purpose. 
 If the fat is not very hot, the cartridges will open and 
 separate from the stuffing. Dish them up nicely and serve 
 with a little fried parsley. 
 
 Ox-palates can also be served with an Italian, Sharp, 
 Tomato, or curry sauce. 
 
 358. OX-CHEEK WITH PUR^E OF VEGETABLE. 
 
 Bone an ox-cheek, immerse it in cold water for about an 
 hour, blanch in the usual way for five minutes, and dip 
 in cold water ; then drain and trim it ; put it afterwards 
 in a large stewpan with the bones at the bottom, add the 
 same sorts and quantity of vegetables as for a soup, together 
 with a " bouquet gai-ni," two quarts of water, and a table- 
 spoonful of salt ; boil and let simmer for two hours ; after 
 which, take the cheek up very carefully with a flat skimmer 
 and press it between two dishes ; strain the broth through 
 a fine sieve ; remove the half of it to a cool place to be 
 used later on for brown sauces, &c., and boil down the 
 other half to a" half-glaze. Meanwhile cut up the ox-cheek 
 in small pieces of equal size, place them in a saut6-pan 
 with the half-glaze, cover the pan with its lid, and simmer 
 for about ten minutes ; roll the pieces nicely in their glaze, 
 dish them up in a circle, fill the centre with a pur6e of 
 vegetable, pour the glaze over, and serve. 
 
 359. OX-CHEEK A L'lTALIENNE. 
 
 Prepare an ox-cheek in the same manner as in the 
 previous number, but instead of a pur^e of vegetable as 
 a garnish, use some ripe tomatoes au gratin, as a border, 
 and pour a little Italian sauce in the centre before serving. 
 
i66 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 360. FRESH OX-TONGUE WITH GHERKIN SAUCE. 
 
 Immerse a fresli ox-tongue in boiling water for a few 
 minutes, to enable the white skin to be removed by- 
 scraping ; then lard it with a small larding-needle in the 
 following manner : — Trim about half a pound of fresh fat 
 bacon two inches long by about three wide, cut this in 
 strips a quarter of an inch thick, soak them for an hour in 
 a pint of white wine, properly seasoned with salt and 
 pepper and a little chopped parsley. 
 
 After having wiped the shreds of bacon and larded the 
 tongue with them,, place this in a saucepan with four 
 quarts of cold water, two rashers of bacon, an onion and 
 a carrot nicely shred, together .with a bay-leaf, a little 
 thyme, three cloves, a teaspoonful of salt, and two pinches 
 of pepper. Set the saucepan boiling and simmer for about 
 three hours and a half (if the tongue is a large one), then 
 ascertain whether it is cooked. When done, take it off 
 the fire and dish it up with Gherkin sauce (No. 192) and 
 serve. Ox-tongue cooked in this way can also be served 
 with Sharp, Italian, or Tomato sauce; you can also omit 
 the larding and serve it with a pur^e of spinach, mac^doine, 
 or any vegetable that may be in season. 
 
 361. PICKLED OX-TONGUE. MADEIRA SAUCE. 
 
 Get a good pickled ox-tongue from your butcher, wash 
 it in two or three cold waters, put it in a saucepan on the 
 fire with four quarts of cold water ; let it boil gently for 
 about three hours, when it must be drawn from the -fire, 
 but leave the tongue in its liquor. Meanwhile put three 
 tablespoonfuls of Espagnole sauce in a small stewpan with 
 a piece of glaze as big as a walnut, and half a pint of 
 Marsala, Madeira, or sherry, a little salt, pepper, and 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 167 
 
 grated nutmeg. Boil it, stir it well with a wooden spoon, 
 and reduce it one-third by sharp boiling. Meantime take 
 the tongue out of its liquor, trim it and remove the white 
 skin, put the tongue back into the saucepan on the fire to 
 warm it up. When boiling dish it up, pour the sauce 
 over it, and serve with a pur^e of potatoes apart, or any 
 other vegetable pur^e. 
 
 If the pickled ox-tongue is to be served cold, cook it in 
 the fame way, aiid leave it in its liquor for ten minutes 
 before trimming ; and when still hot pin it on a board in 
 the larder, so as to give it a round shape, and let it get 
 cold, then glaze it in the following manner : — 
 
 362. TO GLAZE COLD MEAT. 
 
 Put some glaze into a small earthenware pot ; put this 
 in a saucepan two-thirds full of warm water ; set tlie sauce- 
 pan on the fire to bring the water gradually till it boils. 
 When the glaze is well dissolved see that the tongue is 
 well dried ; then with a brush varnish the surface-, evenly 
 and smoothly, and when cold lay on another coat, also a 
 third if necessary; but let it be well understood that the 
 glazing has not for object the hiding of the article glazed, 
 but to give it only a polished and transparent appearance, 
 in the same way as a polished piece of furniture, which in 
 either case is always pleasing to the eye. 
 
 363. SWEETBREADS LARDED A LA MACEDOINE. 
 
 Soak and blanch two sweetbreads, as described in Hot 
 Hors-d'CEuvres, drain and press them between two dishes 
 until cold, after which lard them closely with small strips 
 of bacon, without having been soaked, as for the ox-tongue. 
 Put them in a saut6-pan with a pint of good broth 
 slightly coloured with caramel, a " bouquet garni," a bay- 
 
i68 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 leaf, and salt to taste. Cover the saute-pan with its lid, 
 and boil gently for about half an hour, taking care to add 
 a little more broth if required ; take the lid off, and put 
 the saut^-pan in the oven to dry the siirface, which should 
 be of a nice light-brown colour. Then dish them up .with 
 a garnish of mac^doine (No. 281) and serve, after having 
 poured over the remainder of the glaze in which the 
 sweetbreads were cooked. 
 
 Sweetbread prepared in this way may also be served 
 with any garnish of vegetables or vegetable pur^e, as 
 described in this book, as well as with Tomato or Soubise 
 sauce, &c., &c. 
 
 364. OX-BRAINS, NEAPOLITAN STYLE. 
 
 Soak the brains required in lukewarm water in the 
 manner described in No. 328, then blanch them for a few 
 minutes in salt water, drain, and wipe them with a cloth ; 
 when cold, cut these in scollops, pass them in bread-crumbs, 
 then into some well-beaten eggs and bread-crumbs again. 
 Give each scollop a nice form with your hands ; after which, 
 place them in a sawt6-pan, with a few thin rashers of bacon, 
 half a carrot, the quarter of an onion shred fine, a bay- 
 leaf, salt to taste, half a pint of French white wine, and 
 same quantity of broth ; let these simmer for half an hour, 
 then strain and dish the scollops on some croiitons fried in 
 butter, sprinkle over them a little hot Neapolitan sauce 
 (No. 208), and serve. 
 
 365. OX-BRAINS WITH MONTPELLIER BUTTER. 
 
 Soak and blanch as above two oxTbrains, then cook 
 them in good broth, and let them get cold in the broth ; 
 after which drain, and put them in a saute-pan with three 
 tablespoon fuls of olive-oil, sprinkle over them a little salt 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 169 
 
 and pepper, squeeze the juice of a lemon, add a few sprigs 
 of tarragon, and set the saute-pan on the fire to simmer 
 for a few minutes, and draw the pan from the fire. Put 
 half a pint of Montpellier butter (No 163) into another 
 saut6-pan on the fire, put the two brains in it, and glaze 
 them well. Dish them up, and pour the Montpellier butter 
 over them before sending to the table. 
 
 366. BLACK PUDDINGS. 
 
 Take one pint of pig's blood, add to it half a pint of 
 boiled cream, half a pound of the inside fat. of the pig, cut 
 in small dice, cut three onions also in dice and fry them 
 with two ounces of butter in a frying-pan without colouring 
 them ; mix these with the blood, season with half an ounce 
 of salt, a pinch of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, a sprig 
 of thyme, and half a bay -leaf, chopped very fine ; mix all 
 these well together and fill the skins (previouslj' cleaned and 
 washed) with this mixture, taking care to allow space for 
 tying them into five-inch lengths. When completed and 
 thus tied, immerse the black puddings in boiling water, with- 
 out, however, boiling them, but let them remain in it till 
 they become somewhat firm to the touch, when they must 
 be taken out and hung in the larder to cool. 
 
 When required, cut them into lengths, score them well 
 with a sharp knife, or prick them all round with a trussing- 
 needle, so as to prevent them bursting. Broil them on a 
 moderate fire for about ten minutes, taking care to turn 
 them round as required ; when done, dish them up with 
 maiihed potatoes and serve very hot. 
 
 367. PIG'S FEET A LA STE. MENEHOULD. 
 
 Procure four large pig's feet, pickle them for eight days 
 in common salt brine, then wash and boil them in a quart 
 
ryo PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 of ordinary stock for about three hours and a half, properly 
 seasoned with a " bouquet garni," one carrot, two onions, 
 and half a head of celery, all shred fine. When dohe, 
 drain and cut them in two, lengthways; remove all. the 
 large bones, press them into shape with the hands, and 
 let them get cold ; after which, sprinkle them with salt and 
 pepper, rub them over with a brush or feather dipped in 
 clarified butter, then roll them in bread-crumbs and broil 
 them over a clear fire (taking care to frequently turn them) 
 till of a nice golden colour ; then dish them up, and serve 
 with a sharp sauce (No. 205) apart. 
 
 368. PIG'S FEET A LA GENOISE. 
 
 Prepare and cook four pig's feet as in the previous 
 number, bone and fill them up with a salpicon k la monglas 
 (No. 315); after which, join the two halves, tie them around 
 with some pig's caul, prepared for the purpose, give them 
 their original form, pass them through bread-crumbs, and 
 broil them over a clear fire, taking care, as in No. 367, to 
 turn them round j and when nicely done, dish them up in 
 halves and serve with Italian sauce (No. 204) apart. 
 
 369. PIG'S EARS A LA VENITIENNE. 
 Take four pig's ears, singe them well over a clear flame, 
 and clean th^ insides properly with a cloth after having 
 scraped them nicely, then blanch in boiling salt water for 
 five minutes, drain, and put them in a stewpan with a quart 
 of broth and boil them till cooked, then let them get cold 
 in the liquor. Cut in halves six small onions, of which the 
 two extremities, as well as the hearts in the centre, must 
 be removed ; then cut these onions in half -circles and fry 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 1-71 
 
 them in -a stewpan with two ounces of butter without 
 browning; add a gill of Espagnole sauce, half a pint of 
 veal broth or beef gravy, and simmer for about ten minutes. 
 Meantime out the ears in small strips, and when the onions 
 are nicely cooked skim off the fat, add the strips of ears 
 to it, with a little salt, a dessert-spoonfal of finely chopped 
 parsley, a few drops of vinegar, and a little mustard. Toss 
 up the lot and mix it well together, and when it is properly 
 heated serve. 
 
 370. PIG'S EARS WITH A PUR^E OF LENTILS, 
 
 Prepare and blanch in a similar manner as the foregoing 
 four pig's ears ; drain and put them into a stewpan with 
 enough broth to cover them ; add one carrot and two 
 onions shred fine, as well as a "bouquet garni" and a baj-- 
 leaf; boil them; and when cooked take them out, dish 
 up with a pur^e of lentils or any other pur^e of vegetable, 
 and serve. 
 
 371. PIG'S LIVER, BRAIZED. 
 
 Take a pig's liver, wash and Avipe it well with a cloth, 
 then lard it in the same way as the ox-tongue (No. 360). 
 Put into a stewpan a few slices of fat bacon, one carrot, 
 and two onions shred, and a "bouquet garni;" lay the 
 liver at the top of these with enough broth to moisten half 
 of the liver ; set the stewpan (with the lid on) to boil, and 
 simnier very gently for an hour; taking care meanwhile 
 to often baste the liver with its liquor. Remove the lid, 
 skim the liquor very carefully, and put the stewpan into 
 the oven to give a nice tint to the lard. Meanwhile boil 
 a gill of Espagnole sauce ; dish up some purde of potatoes ; 
 
172 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 put the liver on the pur^e, strain the gravy in which the 
 liver was cooked ; skim off all the grease, mix it well with 
 the Espagnole sauce, pour it over the liver, and serve. 
 
 372. PIG'S LIVER, POUNDED. 
 
 Clean a pig's liver, cut it in small pieces, and put it in 
 a mortar with the half of its weight of fat ; add to it half 
 a pound of trimmed and cut mushrooms, one tablespoonful 
 of fine herbs (No. 195), a tablespoonful of salt, two pinches 
 of pepper, a little griated nutmeg, and the yolks of four 
 eggs ; pound these well together in the mortar, then add 
 a gill of sherrj', inix it well and rub the lot through a wire 
 sieve with a wooden spoon ; butter the inside of a bain- 
 marie pan, put the mixture in it and place it in a pan two- 
 thirds full of boiling water ; boil thus for about an hour, 
 then pour the contents into a hot dish, sprinkle it with some 
 essence of mushrooms (No. 171), and serve. 
 
 373. CALF'S LIVER, BRAIZED A LA GENOISE. 
 
 Wash and wipe dry a calf's liver, then lard it through 
 with strips of fat bacon and raw ham alternately, let it 
 soak in a gill of oil seasoned with salt, pepper, and chopped 
 parsley for about an hour, turning it over at least twice 
 during that time. After which, pour the lot into a saut^- 
 pan, add one carrot, two onions, one head of celery all shred 
 fine, a "bouquet garni," and a bay-leaf; moisten the lot 
 with one pint and a half of good broth, cover the pan and 
 boil ; then draw the pan away from the fire, and let the 
 liver simmer gently for about an hour and a half, frequently 
 basting it with its own liquor, then remove the liver into 
 a stewpan with a little of its liquor and put it in the oven 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 173 
 
 to glaze properly. Meantime push the saut6-pan on the 
 fire and continue reducing the half-glaze by sharp boiling, 
 and skim off the fat. Then dress the liver in the centre 
 of a dish, make a border of macai'oni cheese (No. 88), 
 strain the sauce through a pointed strainer over the liver 
 and m.acaroni, and serve. 
 
 Calf's liver cooked as above can also be served with 
 any garnish or pur6e of vegetables instead of macaroni. 
 
 374. CALF'S LIVER, CITIZEN STYLE, 
 
 Clean and dry a calf's liver as in No. 373, then lard it 
 through with strips of fat bacon, season on both sides 
 with salt and pepper, put it in a saut^-pan with a quarter 
 of a pound of butter and fry it niciely for about five minutes, 
 taking care to give it an even colour all round. Then 
 remove the liver from the saute-pan and put it on a dish 
 apart. Sprinkle three spoonfuls of flour with the butter 
 and stir with a wooden spoon over the fire for £ye minutes. 
 Add a pint of water, a pint of French white wine, one onion 
 witTi two cloves stuck in it, and a '* bouquet garni," season 
 with salt and pepper, stir these with a wooden spoon till 
 it boils, then put the liver in with about two dozen new 
 carrots, as near of the same size as possible (scraped and 
 cleaned), and let it simmer with the stewpan three-parts 
 covered for two hours ; then add one dozen button onions 
 previously fried in butter, and simmer again for about half 
 an hour; dish the liver up, skim the fat from the sauce, 
 and garnish the liver with the carrots and onions ; take the 
 " bouquet garni " and onion with the cloves out, and if 
 there be too much sauce reduce it on a sharp fire for five 
 minutes ; then pass it through a pointed strainer over the 
 liver and vegetables, and serve. 
 
174 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 375. CALF'S LIVER A LA VENITIENNE. 
 
 Cut in small slices a calf's liver and put these in a fry- 
 ing-pan in which a quarter of a pound of Tsutter has already 
 been melted with three spoonfuls of salad-oil, two onions 
 shred fine, a little chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste, 
 fry these on a brisk fire, and stir constantly with a wooden 
 spoon, until the liver is cooked and has assumed a nice 
 bronzed colour, then squeeze the juice of a lemon over it, 
 and serve. 
 
 376. REMARKS ON SAUSAGES AND HOW TO MAKE 
 THEM. 
 
 Sausages are generally considered to be mysteries of the 
 pork butcher, and this prejudice is not wholly without 
 foundation, as the material used for their composition is 
 often of a very doubtful character. On that account, and 
 that only, I advise the making of sausages at. home. 
 
 Take one pound each of lean and fat pork, both free from 
 gristle and rind, chop them in dice and put them into a 
 sausage-machine, the turning of which will give you the 
 sausage meat ; season with salt, pepper, a little pounded 
 thyme and spice. Mix well together, and fill a well- 
 cleansed skin with this forcemeat, and separate it into 
 sausages of from three or four inches in length, by tj'ing 
 them with small string, as for black puddings. When 
 these sausages are made they can be cooked either by 
 broiling or frying. In either case they must be pricked 
 on both sides with a trussing-needle, to prevent their 
 bursting. If broiled, a moderate fire is required, and six 
 minutes will be found suflScient to cook them properly, 
 turning them over after three minutes. If fried; put a 
 little butter or fat into a frying-pan, and when hot put the 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 175 
 
 sausages in ; the same number of minutes will cook them, 
 provided they are also properly turned round. 
 
 Sausages must always be served very hot, on a hot dish, 
 and are eaten either plain or with a garnish of purde of 
 potatoes, or any other pur^e, as well as with rice boiled 
 in broth (with the stewpan closely covered) for twenty 
 minutes. 
 
 377. SAUSAGES, CITIZEN STYLE. 
 
 Put eight sausages into a sautd-pan with half a pint of 
 French white wine and a good pinch of pepper ; cover the 
 sautd-pan and boil for eight minutes; take the sausages 
 out and keep them hot in the corner of the stove on a 
 dish ; add one gill of Poulette sauce to the saute-pan with 
 the wine ; stir and reduce for four minutes ; then add an 
 ounce of butter, a little chopped parsley, and stir till the 
 butter is melted by the side of the fire, and then pour it 
 over the sausages, and serve. 
 
 378. CREPINETTES WITH TOMATO SAUCE. 
 
 Crepinettes are made with the same forcemeat as the 
 . sausages, but in this case no skin is used. Make one 
 pound of sausage meat as described, then flatten it on a 
 board to the thickness of an inch and four inches wide, 
 divide this in eight equal portions, and wrap them in pig's 
 caul to a flat oval shape. When ready, broil them on a 
 moderate fire for six minutes each side, then serve very 
 hot with half a pint of Tomato sauce (No. 217) apart. 
 
 These crepinettes can also be served with rice or mashed 
 potatoes. 
 
CHAPTEE VIII. 
 
 379. FRESH BOILED MEAT. 
 
 Meat that has been boiled for the purpose of making 
 broth should not be disregarded on account of its loss of 
 savour and uninviting aspect. When the broth is made, 
 the different sorts of meat should be taken out of the stock- 
 pot, placed on a dish, and sent to the table garnished with 
 some of the vegetables that were cooked with it ; or in other 
 cases, special vegetables may be simply and carefully pre- 
 pared (according to season and taste) as I have indicated 
 in the chapter on Garnishes. Meat served thus will be 
 found both profitable and useful, and ought to hold its 
 own in the domestic cookery of this country, as well as 
 it does in that of France and Italy ; but it can also be 
 prepared under various palatable and tasty dishes, for 
 which see the following. 
 
 380. BEEF MIRONTON. 
 
 Cut three pounds of cold boiled beef into slices of about 
 a quarter of an inch thick, trim off the fat and dry parts, 
 and place the slices of beef on a dish. Peel, shred fine, 
 and fry in two ounces of butter four onions to a nice 
 light-brown colour ; then sprinkle three tablespoonf uls of 
 flour over them with salt and pepper to taste, and let them 
 simmer for five minutes longer; after which, add a pint of 
 broth and stir well on the fire for fifteen minutes j then 
 add a tea^poonful of mixed mustard, stir, and drop the 
 
 i;6 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 177 
 
 slices of beef into it; toss the saut6-pan nicely,, warm the 
 beef without boiling for a few minutes ; season with more 
 salt and pepper,'if required ; and then dish it up and serve. 
 
 381. BOILED BEEF WITH SHARP SAUCE. 
 
 Slice the same quantity of beef as in No. 380, lay the 
 slices in a gratin-pan, season them with salt and pepper, 
 moisten with a gill of good broth, and put them in the 
 oven for about fifteen minutes ; after which, pour one pint 
 of sharp sauce (No. 205) over the beef, and serve. 
 
 In the same way the beef can be warmed up, and an 
 Italian or Tomato sauce poured over it. 
 
 382. BOILED BEEF AU GEATIN. 
 
 Slice the boiled beef as previously directed, and put it in 
 a gratin-dish ; place abovit half a pound of fresh mushroom 
 cuttings in a stewpan with a pint of broth, season with salt 
 and pepper ; boil for five minutes, and then pour this over 
 the beef. Cover the top with bread-crumbs, set the dish 
 in the oven for ten minutes, and serve. 
 
 383. BOILED BEEF, COUNTRYMAN'S STYLE. 
 
 Cut two pounds of beef in two-inch dice. Cut in the 
 same style a quarter of a pound of streaky 1)acon, remove 
 the rind, and fry the bacon only, with one ounce of butter 
 in a stewpan, to a brown colour; then add a quart of 
 common stock pr water, a " bouquet garni," one onion 
 shred,, and a pound of potatoes cut in squares like the beef ; 
 boil these for fifteen minutes ; after which, add the pieces 
 of beef ; warm them up, without boiling, for ten minutes ; 
 then take out the " bouquet," add some salt if necessary, 
 dish up and serve. 
 
178 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 384. MINCED BOILED BEEF. 
 
 Brown for three minutes in a stewpan three tablespoon- 
 ■fuls of flour with an ounce of butter; take this off the fire, 
 add one' pint of broth, salt and pepper to taste, mix for 
 two minutes and push the stewpan on the fire, stir for ten 
 minutes, then add three pounds of beef, previously trimmed 
 and mixed fine, together with a tablespoonful of chopped 
 parsley, and stir again for three or four minutes on the 
 fire. Should the mixture be too thick, add a little more 
 broth, stir, and serve. 
 
 This mince can be made with Italian or Tomato sauce 
 instead of broth, and^ in either case the process is the 
 same. 
 
 385. BOILED BEEF CROQUETS. 
 
 Chop fine about two pounds of boiled beef. Make a pint 
 of Poulette sauce (No. 179), and reduce it on a sharp fire 
 to half that quantity. Thicken it With the yolks of three 
 eggs well beaten. Mix the chopped beef with this sauce ; 
 add one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and season with 
 salt and pepper ; when well mixed with a wooden spoon, 
 spread it out on a dish to a thickness of an inch and a half, 
 let it get cold, when it will be firm and divide it into twenty 
 equal parts. Strew on a board some bread-crumbs, and put 
 the twenty parts of minced meat thereon, each separated 
 by about two inches, cover these with a sprinkling of 
 bread-crumbs, roll each into the shape of a cork, then beat 
 the whites of the three eggs for one minute, without 
 frothing, add to this a dessert-spoonful of salt, two of oil, 
 and same quantity of water, mix. well together, dip the 
 croquets in the mixture, roll them again in bread-crumbs, 
 and place them on a dish. Twenty minutes before serving, 
 have the frying-kettle ready with hot fat, place the croquets 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 179 
 
 in the frying-basket and put this in the fat to fry ; when 
 nearly done move them gently with a slice to ensure their 
 even colouring and becoming crisp ; then draw the basket 
 out of the frying fat, drain the croquets on a clean cloth, 
 sprinkle with salt, dish them up on a napkin, garnish with 
 fried parsley, and serve. 
 
 386. BOILED BEEF SALAD. 
 
 Cut up the same quantity of cold boiled beef in small 
 thin slices, properly trimmed and free from gristle, and put 
 these on a dish. 
 
 Prepare in a bowl a similar sauce as for the sheep's feet 
 (No. 354), pour it over the beef well mixed, and serve. 
 This will be found very appetising in warm weather. 
 
 387. BOILED VEAL MINCED, AND POACHED EGGS. 
 Pare off the- outside part of two pounds of boiled veal, 
 
 cut it in shreds and chop very fine. Melt in a stewpan an 
 ounce of butter, and brown two tablespoon fuls of flour 
 in it, by stirring on the fire with a wooden spoon for 
 three minutes ; then gradually mix it with a pint of broth, 
 stirring the while, and reduce it on a brisk fire to the 
 consistency of sauce ; then add the minced veal, a little 
 grated nutmeg, and salt and pepper to taste ; stir and 
 mix this on the fire for three minutes, and dish it up ; 
 after which, place eight poached eggs on it, decorate with 
 croutons fried in butter, and serve. 
 
 Note. — Any pieces of cooked ham, bacon, or pickled 
 tongue, properly minced, as well as mushrooms, can be 
 added to the minced veal. 
 
 388. BOILED VEAL, MINCED A LA NAPOLITAINE. 
 
 Trim two pounds of boiled veal, and cut it in dice of a 
 quarter of an inch thict 5ut half a pint of white wine 
 
i8o PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 into a stewpan with two chopped shalots, a little grated 
 nutmeg, salt and pepper, and the juice of a lemon ; set 
 these ingredients on to boil, and then pour in the minced 
 veal, stir, and let it simmer for ten minutes. Meantime 
 prepare a plain macaroni cheese (No. 88), dish it up, put 
 the minced veal over it, sprinkle the lot with a little hot 
 glaze, and serve. 
 
 Minced veal can also be prepared in croquettes (see 
 No. 385), or au gratin, as in No. 382. 
 
 389. BOILED MUTTON. 
 
 Boiled mutton should always be eaten with plain vege- 
 tables, and served with Caper or Tomato sauce apart. 
 
CHAPTEE VIII. 
 
 REMARKS ON FISH. 
 
 The fisheries of Great Britain have assumed such vast 
 proportions and importance, that it makes one almost 
 wonder how such a quantity of fish (in London some 400 
 tons) daily sent to the principal markets of this country 
 can be so easily disposed of. 
 
 The flesh of the different species of British fish (there 
 are many) is fully recognised by all to be a most delicate 
 and nutritious food, as well as brain feeding. 
 
 Nature having thus provided an unbounded supply of 
 fish for man's food, to him remains the duty of knowing 
 how to use it to the best advantage, and cook, dress, and 
 serve it in different ways, in order to relieve and improve 
 by such means the monotony of its taste and colour. 
 
 The multiplicity of modes in preparing fish as a food, is 
 however, so great and perplexing that I only give a few 
 of the most useful and economical recipes for each fish, 
 ignoring as much as possible the use of other species and 
 crustaceans as a garnish to the numerous forms of cooking 
 and dressing, it. 
 
 There are two ways of boiUng fish. The first consists 
 in putting the whole of the fish in cold water with plenty 
 of salt - and a little vinegar ; the second, in immersing in 
 boiling salted water the fish cut in slices. The advantage 
 of the former is, that the fish boiled whole loses none of 
 
 its quality j but the cooking of the latter is quicker. How- 
 
 181 
 
i82 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 ever, as it is not always convenient to cook a whole 
 fish, especially when it is a large one, and when the 
 question of time is also to be considered, I think it is only 
 right that the advantage derived from one should be 
 equalised by the consideration of the other. In either 
 case, as soon as the fish is cooked it must be taken out 
 of the water and drained, otherwise it will lose some of 
 its flavour and firmness. Should you have to keep, the 
 fish hot for a few minutes before serving, cover it with 
 two or three folds of clean cloth or flannel on the strainer 
 across the kettle, but do not on any account let it soak in 
 hot water. 
 
 Remaeks on Salmon. 
 
 Salmon is certainly and without prejudice the king of 
 fish ; he is highly intellectual and possesses a strongly 
 developed instinct ; in fact, is an aristocrat and a gentle- 
 man. His shape, build, and movements are most graceful 
 and elegant, and is considered the finest specimen of the 
 species, and can jump over obstacles and difiiculties like a 
 hunter on terra firma. He strongly objects to unclean or 
 polluted rivers, and, like a hound following the fox by scent, 
 he can detect impure water (which means danger for him) 
 for a long distance down the river. He is more of a sea 
 than a fresh-water fish, and must be as free as the red- 
 deer or the eagle, and will not thrive in captivity. The 
 season is from March to August. 
 
 390. BOILED SALMON, LOBSTER SAUCE. 
 
 The middle cut of a salmon is the most delicate part of 
 the fish, but it is rather oily, and consequently more in- 
 digestible than the rest. Of the two halves, the one with 
 the head is to be preferred. 
 
 Take a slice of about three poiinds of salmon, in pre- 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 183 
 
 feionce the cut near the head, put this on the drainer in 
 a Btnall fish-kettle with three quarts of boiling water and 
 a handful of salt ; boil it, and then simmer for about 
 twenty minutes or till the fish is done, which can easily 
 be ascertained by it separating from the bones. Then at 
 once take the drainer out of the water, place the piece of 
 salmon carefully on a folded napkin on the dish, decorate 
 with a few sprigs of green parsley, and serve with Lobster 
 sauce (No. 2 1 2) in a sauce-boat apart. 
 
 Salmon boiled in this way can also be served with, 
 shrimp, melted butter, or Hollandaise sauce. 
 
 391. SALMON A LA VENITIENNE. 
 Boil as in the foregoing two or three pounds of salmon 
 cut in slices of one inch thick for twelve minutes; then 
 strain, remove the sfein, and put the slices of salmon in 
 a saut6-pan with a pint of fish gravy (No. 20) and a 
 spoonful of lobster butter (No. 169); let them simmer 
 with the saut^-pan covered for ten minutes ; after which, 
 take each slice out with a flat skimmer without breaking, 
 dish them up, by overlaying each other in a circle, pour 
 a Venitian sauce (No. 206) over them, and serve. 
 
 392. SALMON A LA GENOISE. 
 
 Prepare a liquor called " Court Bouillon " in the follow- 
 ing manner : — 
 
 Put a gill of salad-oil or three ounces of butter in a 
 stewpan, with two onions and one carrot sliced, add a few 
 trimmings of bacon or ham, a -dozen pepper-corns, four 
 cloves, a " bouquet garni," and a handful of salt j fry these 
 ingredients over, the fire for eight minutes, stirring the 
 while ; then pour in a bottle of white dry wine and two 
 quarts of water or fish broth ; let it simmer for half an 
 hour, skim, and strain through a sieve into a small fish- 
 
1 84 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 kettle ; then put in three pounds of salmon, cut in slices 
 as in No. 391, boil these gently for twenty-five minutes, 
 strain in the Usual way, and dish them up with Genoise 
 sauce (No. 207) poured over, and serve. 
 
 Note. — This " Court Bouillon " will keep a long time if 
 'boiled every four days, adding half a pint of water or fish 
 broth and a similar quantity of wine each time. This 
 liquor is generally used for boiling fresh-water fish, 
 
 393. BROILED SALMON. TARTARE SAUCE. 
 
 Steep two pounds of salmon, cut in slices of about one 
 inch thick, in a dish with half a gill of salad-oil ; salt and 
 pepper. Broil these on a good and clear fire for twelve 
 minutes each side, then dish up and serve with Tartare 
 sauce (No. 221) apart. 
 
 394. SALMON CUTLETS A L'INDIENNE. 
 
 - Slice a piece of salmon as previously desciibed, cut these 
 in halves, lengthwise, then rub them slightly over with oil, 
 sprinkle each slice with salt and pepper, broil them over 
 a clear fire for twelve minutes each side ; after which, dish 
 them up in a circle on a napkin on a dish, and serve with 
 Indian curry sauce (No. 185) apart. 
 
 395. SALMON CROQUETS. 
 
 Pieces of cooked salmon should be used for croquets. 
 Proceed to make a salpicon of salmon in the same way as 
 the salpicon of lobster (see No. 314), then turn this into 
 croquets (No. 326), fry in the same way, and serve. 
 
 396. SALMON WITH MAYONNAISE SAUCE. 
 
 Trim, wash, and shred two lettuces; season with oil, 
 vinegar, salt, and pepper ; lay these at the bottom of a dish. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 185 
 
 Cut in small fillets the boiled salmon left from the previous 
 day's dinner ; pile these over the lettuces in the centre of 
 the dish. Cover the lot with Mayonnaise sauce (No. 219), 
 decorate the border of the dish with two hard-boiled eggs 
 cut in quarters and two cleansed and boned anchovies, each 
 cut in fillets of four, twisted round the finger and placed 
 alternately with the eggs, and serve. 
 
 397. PICKLED SALMON. 
 
 Clean, wash, and wipe a whole salmon weighing about 
 twelve pounds, tie the head with a string and simmer very 
 gently in the fish-kettle on the drainer for fifty minutes 
 in plenty of salt water and a glass of vinegar, or better still 
 with " Court Bouillon" (No. 392). After which, if the fish 
 is cooked in a " Court Bouillon," remove the fish-kettle to 
 a cool place, leaving the salmon in it untU it is cold. If 
 boiled in water, drain the fish when cooked, and slide it 
 very carefully from the strainer into a deep oval dish ; and 
 then in either case pour over it a well-beaten mixture 
 composed of a bottle of vinegar, half a pint of oil properly 
 seasoned with salt, a tablespoonful of pepper-corns, six 
 cloves, two bay -leaves, and the peel of two lemons. Let the 
 fish steep in this liquor for at least four hours, taking care 
 to baste it often with the liquor during that time; then 
 dish up on a large oval dish with part of its liquor strained 
 over it ; remove the string from around the head, decorate 
 the fish and the dish with a border of peeled cucumber- 
 slices partly immersed in the liquor, a few thin slices of 
 lemon cut in fancy shapes and placed about on the dish, 
 and, last but not least, a few sprigs of fennel nicely arranged 
 about the head, tail, and centre of the fish, and then send 
 to the table. 
 
i86 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 Remarks on Turbot. 
 
 Turbot is a very thick flat-fish, and (halibut excepted) is 
 the largest of that class. 
 
 The greater portion of turbots supplied to the vari?iu8 
 English markets is caught on or near the numerous sand- 
 banks between England and Holland, but the finest comes 
 from the Flemish coasts. 
 
 The flesh of the "turbot is almost as white as snow, firm, 
 delicate, savoury, 'and very nourishing, and may without 
 prejudice, on account of its superior taste and flavour, com- 
 bined with its plump and fleshy shape, be compared to the 
 Surrey chicken, and called the sea-capon. 
 
 398. BOILED TURBOT. HOLLANDAISE SAUCE, 
 
 Choose a thick and plump turbot ; see that the fins or 
 backbone are free from colour; if it has any reddish 
 appearance about it the turbot (although it may be quite 
 fresh) will boil a bad colour. Clean the inside thoroughly 
 and rub with a handful of salt ; trim the fins close ; 
 wash, and wipe dry ; rub over with the juice of a lemon, 
 score it with a pointed knife a quarter of an inch deep 
 across the back two or three times ; put two handfuls of 
 salt over it and place in a turbot-kettle on the drainer 
 with suflScient boiling water to cover the fish. Boil, and 
 as soon as the water begins to simmer, skim it well j then 
 let it simmer for about half an hour, more or less, according 
 to the size of the fish. When the fish is done lift it out 
 of the water with the drainer, put this across the kettle 
 for a few minutes to dry, and then slip it very carefully 
 on to a dish and serve with Hollandaise sauce (No, 184) 
 apart. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 187 
 
 399. FILLETS OF TURBOT A L'INDIENNE. 
 
 After having cleaned and trimmed a small turbot, or 
 pai-t of one, as in No. 398, cut it in scollops, place them in a 
 saut^-pan with three ounces of butter, a gill of fish broth 
 or boiling water, and two tablespoonfuls of curry paste or 
 powder nicely sprinkled and mixed with the broth ; let this 
 simmer, with the lid on the saut^-pan, for twenty minutes; 
 after which, add to it a gill of Veloute sauce (No. 153). 
 Let the whole boil together for three minutes longer, then 
 dish up the fillets, by laying one over the other in a circle, 
 pass the sauce through a tainmy sieve, make it hot again, 
 mix with it an ounce of butter, stir to melt the butter well, 
 then pour the sauce over the fillets, and serve. 
 
 400. FILLETS OF TURBOT A L'lTALIENNE. 
 
 Prepare the fillets of turbot as in No. 399, boil them 
 with the same quantity of- butter and fish broth for twenty 
 minutes with the pan covered ; then add half a pint of 
 Italian sauce ; let the contents simmer for four or five 
 minutes longer ; dish up the fillets in the same manner as 
 the Indienne, and pass the sauce through a tammy into 
 the pan to be made hot again ; add an ounce of anchovy 
 butter, together with a dessert-spoonful of chopped capers. 
 Mix these well together, pour over the fillets, and serve. 
 
 401. TURBOT CREAM AU GRATIN. 
 Take the remnants of a cooked turbot ; bone, and trim 
 properly ; cut or separate this in small flakes or fillets and 
 put them into a stewpan with enough Bechamel sauce 
 (No. 15s) to moisten the bottom of the pan; season this 
 with salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and the juice of a lemon ; 
 set the stewpan on the fire to warm the contents; after 
 which, pile them up nicely on a gratia-dish, shake some 
 
i88 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 grated cheese on the surface, pour a gill of cream over 
 this, and set the dish in a moderately heated oven for eight 
 or ten minutes in order to gratinate the top ; then form a 
 border around the fish, on the edge of the dish, with a 
 puree of potatoes, hold a red-hot salamander over the 
 whole surface to give it a light-brown colour, and serve. 
 
 402. TURBOT CROQUETS, &e. 
 
 Turbot can also be served in croquets, coquilles, mayon- 
 naise, &c. &c. (see each heading). 
 
 403. BRILL. 
 
 This fish, bearing in shape and taste a great resemblance 
 to turbot, is prepared in the same way and served with the 
 same sauces, but requires scraping before cooking, in order 
 to free it from scales. 
 
 404. JOHN DORY. 
 
 This fish, although a favourite with a great many, is but 
 seldom sent to the table, otherwise than as a plain boiled 
 fish, with either Lobster, Shrimp, Hollandaise, or Italienne 
 sauce. 
 
 Kemaeks on Cod- Fish. 
 
 The common cod is a fish almost universally known in 
 cold and temperate climates. It is found in almost every 
 sea but the Mediterranean, and as a proof of the com- 
 mercial importance and value of cod, the right of its 
 fisheries has even been, from time to time, the cause of 
 ill-feeling between the fishermen of friendly nations. 
 
 Cod-liver-oil is a great source of income to the fishermen 
 of the Noi'th, as well as a boon and relief to weak and 
 consumptive persons. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 189 
 
 405. COD WITH OYSTER SAUCE. 
 
 Crimp a piece of cod ; place it on the drainer in a fish- 
 kettle with a handful of salt; pour over it sufiicient boiling 
 water to cover it entirely. Boil it, and let it simmer for 
 a quarter of an hour, then drain and place it on a napkin 
 on a dish, and serve with Oyster savice (No. 186) in a sauce- 
 boat apart. 
 
 Cod boiled as above can also be served with Egg, Hoi' 
 landaise, Melted Butter, or Tomato sauce. 
 
 406. COD STUFFED AND BAKED. 
 
 Clean, trim, and stuff the inside of a cod with some well- 
 seasoned veal stuflBng, which secure by sewing up ; make 
 several deep incisions on either side of the fish, and place 
 it in a deep baking-dish, previously spread with plenty of 
 butter ; season with salt, pepper, two shalots, a few mush- 
 rooms and some parsley chopped fine ; moisten with half a 
 bottle of white wine and a gill of broth. Set the fish in the 
 oven to bake, and every ten minutes, or oftener, baste with 
 its liquor. When the fish is nearly done sprinkle it over 
 with some fine raspings, and put again in the oven for 
 ten minutes. When the cod is baked draw the string out 
 without tearing the flesh of the fish ; put this on a hot 
 dish with a little broth to detach the glaze from the jDottom 
 of and around the pan, pass the lot through a tammy sieve 
 into a small stewpan, add a little brown sauce ; reduce the 
 whole to a proper consistency ;.'add half an ounce of anchovy 
 butter, a little cayenne, and the juice of a lemon ; stir this 
 well together on the fire, pour it over and round the cod in 
 the dish, and serve, 
 
 407. COD A L'INDIENNE. 
 Trim some pieces "of cod in the shape of thick fillets, 
 place these in a saut6-pan well buttered ; moisten with 
 
igo PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 some Indian curry sauce (No. 185) prepared for the pur- 
 pose ; cover the saut^-pan with its lid and set on a sharp 
 fire to boil for about twenty minutes; then dish up the 
 fillets in the form of a circle, overlaying each other, pass 
 the sauce through a tammy, pour it over the fish, and 
 serve, 
 
 408. COD A LA GENOISE. 
 Prepare some slices of cod as in the previous number, 
 put these in a nicely oiled saut6-pan and moisten with 
 a pint of Genoise sauce (No. 207) ; cover the pan and 
 simmer on a brisk fire for twenty minutes; after which, 
 dish up the fish as described in the foregoing, pour the 
 sauce over, and serve. 
 
 409. COD A LA CrIIME, AU GRATIN. 
 
 Prepare the pieces of cod left from the previous day's 
 dinner, in a manner similar to the turbot au gratin (No. 
 401). 
 
 410. COD IN COQUILLES. 
 
 Cod can also be served in coquilles, croquets, and 
 mayonnaise (for which see Nos. 324, 326, and 396 respec- 
 tively). 
 
 411. SALT COD. EGG SAUCE. 
 
 Salt cod should be soaked in running water, for at least 
 twelve hours previous to being cooked. If this cannot be 
 obtained, cover the piece of salt fish intended for cooking 
 with warm water, and let it soak for six hours ; after 
 which, soak it for another six hours in cold water, taking 
 care to change the water at least three times ; then put 
 it in a saucepan with plenty of cold water, boil for six 
 or seven minutes ; drain well ; dish up, and garnish with 
 plain boiled potatoes, and send to the table with some 
 Egg sauce (No; 182) in a sauce-boat apart. 
 
 Note. — Salt cod steeped and boiled, as in the preceding 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 191 
 
 number, can also be served with melted butter, maltre 
 d'hotel, or black butter. 
 
 Remarks on Sturgeon. 
 
 The sturgeon is generally found at the mouths of large 
 rivers in the different seas of Europe, and lised to be very 
 highly appreciated by our ancestors; in fact, by an Act 
 passed in the reign of Edward II. (which, I am informed, 
 has never been repealed) that iish was called " Royal,',' 
 and only allowed to be served on the table of that monarch, 
 and forbidden to appear on any other. 
 
 Amongst the Romans, at their feasts, the sturgeon was 
 decorated with garlands and wreaths, and used to be carried 
 to the tables of Consuls and Emperors by the chiefs and 
 nobles of their Court, to the sound of music. 
 
 The flesh of the sturgeon differs much in colour and 
 taste, but a good cook can almost turn it at will into fish, 
 meat, or poultry. 
 
 Caviare, composed of the roe of sturgeon, is very mucli 
 relished, especially by the Russians, as a hors-d'oeuvre, or 
 side dish, and by them it is preserved, and exported, on a 
 large scale to all parts of Europe. 
 
 412. STURGEON A LA VENITIENNE. 
 Take the half of a small sturgeon, the head-part in 
 • preference, and boil it in "Court Bouillon" (No. 392) for 
 about two hours, with the fish-kettle covered ; then drain 
 and skim -it, put the fish in a deep-baking dish with a 
 pint of Genoise sauce (No. 207), let it simmer for ten 
 minutes, taking care to often baste the fish with the sauce 
 during that time ; after which, dish it up, add to the 
 sauce about a dozen small onions and a handful of mush- 
 rooms previously blanched and glazed in broth, together 
 
192 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. ' 
 
 with an ounce of anchovy butter ; mix this well on the fire, 
 pour it over the fish, and serve. 
 
 413. STURGEON A L'ANGLAISE. 
 Procure a prime cut of sturgeon ; remove the skin with 
 a thin-bladed knife, by inserting the point between the flesh 
 and skin close to the back fin, and drawing it to and 
 fro so as to sever the skin from the flesh on both sides. 
 When this is completed replace the skin over the sturgeon, 
 and fasten on with a string, in order to preserve the 
 colour of the fish. Put the fish on the drainer in the fish- 
 kettle, with sufficient " Court Bouillon " to cover it well. 
 Cover the fish-kettle and let it boil gently for two hours 
 and a half ; after which, draw the fish away from the 
 fire, take it out and place on a dish in a hot closet, 
 well covered with a folded clean cloth. Meantime take a 
 pint of "Court Bouillon" out of the kettle in which the 
 fish has just^been cooked ; strain into a small stewpan ; 
 add half a pint of port wine, and reduce the whole to 
 a half-glaze ; after which, mix with it a gill of Espagnole 
 or any other brown sauce, a dozen button mushrooms, an 
 ounce of anchovy butter, a little cayenne and grated nut-, 
 meg, and the juice of a lemon. Stir the lot well on the 
 fire, and let it boil three minutes ; then bring the fish out, 
 remove the cloth, string, and skin, pour the sauce over the 
 sturgeon, and serve. 
 
 414. STURGEON, LARDED AND ROASTED. 
 
 Remove the skin of a piece of sturgeon in the same 
 manner as in No. 413, sprinkle the fish with salt and 
 pepper, and if time will allow, lard with small strips of 
 bacon on each side, or simply tie some thin slices of bacon 
 on it; then butter a sheet of stiff kitchen paper large 
 enough to enclose the sturgeon, put some sliced onions and 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 193 
 
 carrots on the paper, as well as a few sprigs each of thyme 
 and parsley, two bay -leaves and a laurel-leaf, place the fish 
 on these and wrap it well in the paper, tie two more sheets 
 of buttered paper around it, fix it on the spit to be roasted 
 before an even fire, or in a baking-sheet ,to be baked in 
 the oven, which will, in either case, take about one hour 
 and a half or two hours, according to the size of the fish. 
 
 When the sturgeon is cooked, untie the strings and 
 remove the paper, dish up and glaze it, then serve with 
 Oyster, Lobster, or Indian sauce apart. 
 
 415. STURGEON AU GRATIN. 
 
 This method of dressing sturgeon should ouly be resorted 
 to (as in the foregoing gratins) when it happens that a 
 suflBcient remnant is left from the previous day's meal. 
 
 Cut the sturgeon into small scollops ; put into a sautd- 
 pan enough AUemande sauce to moisten the quantity of 
 iish left ; add some fine herbs, lemon-juice, a little grated 
 nutmeg, and half an ounce of anchovy butter; mix these 
 ingredients well together on the fire ; add the scollops 
 of sturgeon, and when nicely hot, dish them up in a 
 gratin dish, pour the sauce over, cover the whole with 
 bread-crumbs and a handful of grated cheese, place the 
 dish in the oven to gratinate, and when nicely browned, 
 serve. 
 
 Sturgeon, in addition to the preceding modes of prepa- 
 ration, can also be dressed similarly to salmon, in all its 
 varieties. 
 
 416. SKATE WITH BLACK BUTTER. 
 
 There are many varieties of skate, but amongst these the 
 blue or grey skate are considered the best for the table, and 
 when properly dressed are not unworthy of the epicure's 
 notice. This fish is generally bought ready dressed and 
 
194 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 cleaned, but in case this should not be done, the following 
 is the proper method of doing it :— 
 
 Skin the skate on both sides, cut off the tail, wash the 
 fish thoroughly and lay it flat on the table ; take a sharp 
 knife and with it separate the fleshy parts from the back- 
 bone on both sides ; after which, cut these pieces into long 
 strips by cutting through the cartilaginous or finny parts ; 
 place these strips in a pan with plenty of fresh water in 
 order to crimp them. In like manner separate the other 
 side of the fish and place the pieces also in the cold water ; 
 keep the liver apart, and change the water in which the 
 fish is placed very often and until the crimping be effected. 
 
 Put these pieces into a saucepan with suflicient water to 
 cover the fish ; add a glass of vinegar, a handful of salt, 
 and a faggot of parsley. Set the saucepan to boil and 
 simmer for a quarter of an hour, draw the pan away from 
 the fire, drain the fish, and keep it hot. Meantime put. the 
 liver of the skate into a small stewpan, with enough of 
 the liquor in which the skate was cooked to moisten it ; 
 then boil for five minutes and drain ; dish up the fish and 
 ■liver, pour half a pint of black butter (No. 164) over it, 
 garnish with a handful of fried parsley, and serve. 
 
 417. SKATE A LA GENOISE. 
 
 Prepare and cook the crimped pieces of skate in the 
 same way as in the previous number ; dish these up, and 
 pour over some Genoise sauce (No. 207), and serve. 
 
 418. SKATE, HOLLANDAISE SAUCE. 
 
 Boil in plenty of salt water with two glasses of vinegar, 
 for about a quarter of an hour, the whole of a skate. 
 When cooked strain, and peel, off the skin from both 
 sides, put the skate on a dish, cover it with Hollandaise 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 195 
 
 sauce (No. 184), in which you have previously miied a 
 tablespoonful of capers, and serve. 
 
 Eemarks on Mackbuel. 
 It has been proved beyond a doubt that the gills of 
 mackerel undergo fermentation and become poisonous forty- 
 eight hours after the fish has been caught; therefore 
 no part of the head should be eaten, and I strongly advise 
 the cutting-off both head and gills of every mackerel (how- 
 ever fresh they may be) before cooking. 
 
 419. BOILED MACKEREL. 
 
 Remove the gills as aforesaid, and cleanse the inside of 
 one or more good-sized mackerel, cut off the end of the 
 tail and fins, boil the fish in salt water with a little vinegar, 
 dish up, and serve with Fennel (194) or Parsley sauce, in 
 a sauce-boat apart. 
 
 420. BROILED MACKEREL A LA MAItRE D'HdTEL. 
 
 Prepare the mackerel as in the foregoing, split the fish 
 down the back lengthwise, "to the bone. Put these halves 
 on a dish in which you have already placed two table- 
 spoonfuls of olive-oil properly seasoned, with salt and 
 pepper ; soak the fish well with this ; then place the halves 
 on a gridiron, over a brisk fire, for six minutes each 
 side ; dish them up, put some cold mattre d'h6tel butter 
 (No. 226) over each half, and serve on a very hot dish. 
 
 421. MACKEREL A LA GENOISE. 
 
 Cut off the heads of three mackerel ; clean and wash 
 the fish properly, place them in a fish-kettle with a pint 
 of white wine, a few sprigs of chopped parsley, three 
 boned and chopped anchovies, a clove of garlic and half 
 
196 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 an onion slired fine; add to it a little oil, salt and pepper 
 to taste, and set to simmer for about half an hour; 
 after which, take the fish out, add to the liquor a gill of 
 Espagnole sauce and the juice of a lemon ; stir the lot 
 well together on the fire, dish up the fish, strain, and pour 
 the sauce over it, and serve. 
 
 422. FILLETS OF MACKEREL A LA VENITIENNE. 
 
 Fillet three mackerel as follows : — Place the fish on the 
 slab with its back toward you, then run the knife in, just 
 below -the gills, turn the edge of the blade under, press 
 with the fingers of the left hand full on the upper end 
 of the fish, and bearing with the blade of the knife upon 
 the side of the backbone, draw the knife gently down to 
 the tail, then turn the mackerel over and take the fillet 
 ofl the other side. When this is done cut each fillet in 
 two, trim the ends nicely, and put them in a buttered 
 saut6-pan; season with salt and pepper, and add two 
 ounces of clarified butter ; cover the fillets with a round 
 of buttered paper ; set the pan over a moderate fire to 
 simmer for about a quarter of an hour ; after which, dress 
 the fillets up in a dish in a circle, pour over some Venitian 
 sauce (No. 206), and serve. 
 
 423. STEWED FILLETED MACKEREL, 
 
 Fillet three mackerel as in the foi'egoing, and take the 
 skin off ; put these in a frying or baking pan with three 
 ounces of melted butter, salt and pepper-corns to taste, a 
 little chopped parsley and an onion shred fine. ' Set these 
 on a moderate fire to stew nicely, taking care to turn the 
 fillets without breaking them. When cooked, dish these 
 up in "a circle, pour in the pan half a pint of Tomato or 
 Italian sauce ; stir the contents well on the fire till nicely 
 hot, then pour the sauce over the fish and serve. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 197 
 
 Eemarks on Sole. 
 
 To the public in general soles are the most important 
 of sea-fish, as they are required by all classes of society, 
 the upper class getting the largest and best quality, the 
 poorer the smaller and inferior fish. 
 
 The supply of soles to the London market is very 
 fluctuating on account of their migratory habits ; retiring 
 to great depths in the ocean, during the winter and in 
 stormy weather. 
 
 The flesh of the sole is white, and possesses a delicacy 
 and flavour superior to that of all other fish. It is gene- 
 rally recommended to invalids and convalescents as a 
 most nourishing and digestive food. 
 
 424. BOILED SOLES. 
 
 Remove the gills, cut off the heads transversely, cleanse 
 the insides, strip or gull off the brown skins, scrape the 
 other sides, then with a pair of large scissors trim away 
 the fins close up to the fillets of two large soles. After 
 which, wash and wipe them thoroughly, then immerse 
 in boiling salt water, and let them boil for twelve or 
 fifteen minutes, according to their size. When the soles 
 .are cooked dish up and serve with Butter sauce (No. 157) 
 in a boat apart. 
 
 425. FRIED SOLES. 
 
 Trim and clean four soles of moderate size, as in the 
 foregoing. Flour these well on both sides, then pass them 
 through breadings (No. 269) and bread-raspings (No. 268). 
 After which, dip them in warm frying fat, and gradually 
 increase the heat till the soles are of a nice pale-brown 
 colour, when they must be taken out. Drain them on a 
 cloth, sprinkle each with salt, dish up on a napkin, garnish 
 
198 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY, 
 
 with a few sprigs of fried parsley and a lemon cut in 
 quarters, and iserve with or without some Shrimp, Lohster, 
 Melted Butter, or HoUandaise sauce. 
 
 Note. — Moderate-sized soles only should be used for frying, 
 as when large they must necessarily take a considerable 
 time in the frying, on account of their thickness, and 
 imbibe a greater portion of the fat, and therefore contract 
 a strong flavour. They are also less likely to appear crisp, 
 although this is so essential a requisite in all fried fish. 
 
 426. SOLES A LA COLBERT. 
 
 Clean and trim two large soles as described in No. 425 ; 
 make an incision on each side of the bone down the whole 
 fish, break the bone in pieces with the handle of the knife, 
 so as to facilitate removing it when cooked, pass these 
 through breadings and bread-raspings (Nos. z68 and 269), 
 and fry them in hot fat for about ten or twelve minutes. 
 When the soles are properly cooked, drain on a cloth, 
 put them on a dish, remove the pieces of bone, fill the 
 inside with some cold maitre d'h6tel (No. 226), garnish with 
 a little fried parsley, put the dish for two minutes in the 
 oven, and serve with a lemon cut in four. 
 
 427. SOLES WITH FINE HERBS. 
 
 Clean and trim two large soles as in the foregoing ; put 
 them on a buttered saut4-pan, sprinkle over them some 
 chopped mushrooms, parsley, and one shalot ; season with 
 salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg ; moisten with two glasses 
 of white wine ; cover the soles with a buttered paper and 
 set them in the oven to cook. When done, drain the liquor 
 into a small stewpan containing half a pint of AUemande 
 sauce; add to it a spoonful of blanched and chopped 
 parsley, a pat of fresh butter, and the juice of a lemon; 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 199 
 
 stir the whole well together on the fire ; dish up the soles, 
 pour the sauce over, and serve. 
 
 428. SOLES AU GRATIN. 
 
 After having cleaned and trimmed, in the usual way, 
 two large soles, spread them in a well-buttered gratin-dish 
 or gratin-pan ; season with salt and pepper, moisten with 
 half a pint of white wine, and sprinkle with a little finely 
 chopped parsley ; put these in the oven to bake for about 
 twenty minutes ; after which, pour over them half a pint 
 of Italian sauce (No. 204.). Strew the top thickly with 
 bread-raspings, push the dish back in the oven for a few 
 minutes to gratinate, and just before serving pass the red- 
 hot salamander over them. 
 
 429. SOLES A LA PROVENQALE. 
 
 Take two large soles, trim and clean as in the fore- 
 going, place them in a sautfi-pan properly seasoned with 
 salt, pepper, nutmeg, and chopped parsley; add to these 
 a gill of white wine and the same quantity of salad-oil; 
 cover the fish with a well-oiled sheet of paper, and set 
 the pan in the oven to bake. Meanwhile shred four large 
 onions and fry them in a gill of good oil to a nice brown 
 colour. When the soles are done dish up, drain the 
 onions and mix them with the liquor of the fish, pour it 
 over the soles, and serve after having squeezed the juice of 
 half a lemon over them. 
 
 430. FILLETS OF SOLE A LA LIVOURNAISE. 
 
 Trim and clean two soles in the usual way ; place them 
 in a saut^-pan with a gill each of white wine, good vinegar, 
 and broth. Season properly with salt, pepper, nutmeg, 
 chopped parsley, mace, and majoram. Cook on a good fire 
 for ten minutes, and let them get cold ; after which, fillet 
 
200 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 with a pointed knife and put back in the saut6-pan 
 with the bones. Lay on each fillet, with a knife, a 
 tablespoonful of raw fish forcemeat (No. 275); add a little 
 anchovy butter, the juice of half a lemon, a few slices of 
 cooked mushrooms and truifles on each fillet. Cover these, 
 with a buttered sheet of paper, boil, and place the saut6- 
 pan in a very hot oven for a -quarter of an hour. Mean- 
 while prepare as many slices of buttered toast, cut of the 
 same shape as the fillets of sole.s, and dish up the fillets on 
 them, and pour the sauce over the lot before serving. 
 
 431. SOLES WITH FRIED PARSLEY. 
 
 After having cleaned and trimmed two soles, throw 
 them into two quarts of boiling salt water. Meanwhile 
 boil the frying fat, and when the soles are nearly cooked 
 strain and dry them well, then dip them in the frying fat 
 with some parsley, and serve with a lemon cut in four, 
 garnished with the fried parsley. 
 
 This simple mode of cooking suits any kind of salt-water 
 fish, and can be recommended. 
 
 432. FILLETED SOLES. VENITIAN SAUCE. 
 Prepare eight fillets of sole and place them in a buttered 
 saut^-pan ; season with salt, pepper, and a little mace, 
 moisten with a pint of broth, cover with a buttered paper, 
 cook on a quick fire, dish them in a circle, pour over some 
 Venitian sauce (No. 206), and serve. 
 
 483. SOLES A LA NORMANDE. 
 Trim and strip off the black skin of two soles, make a 
 good incision along each side of the bone on the skinned 
 part of each sole, and clean well ; then butter a saut6-pan 
 large enough to hold the two soles, strew it with some 
 very finely chopped onions, previously blanched, lay the soles 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 20i 
 
 on these, season with salt and pepper, moisten with half a 
 pint of white wine, and cook them in the oven. Mean- 
 while have half a pint of fish broth (No. 25) ready made, 
 which must be bailed with a gill of white wine. Blanch 
 separately twelve oysters, twelve mussels, and twelve 
 mushroom buttons ; fry also twelve smelts and some 
 crodtons ready for garnish. When the soles are cooked 
 put them on a silver dish and keep hot ; add the liquor 
 of the soles, as well as that in which the mussels were 
 cooked, to the fish broth, and strain it through a fine 
 cloth into a saucepan. Melt two ounces of butter in 
 another saucepan, add to it two ounces of flour, stir this 
 well over the fire with a wooden spoon, moisten with the 
 liquor, and reduce it by boiling for fifteen minutes; then 
 strain through a tammy cloth and thicken it with the yolks 
 of twt) eggs. Place the oysters, mussels, and mushrooms 
 decoratively on the soles and round them, pour the sauce 
 over, and put the dish in the oven for five minutes, taking 
 care not to colour the sauce ; after which, garnish the 
 border of the dish, with the fried smelts and crofltons, then 
 serve. 
 
 Crayfish or prawns as well as ti'uffles can also be added 
 with advantage to the above garnish. 
 
 434. SOLE WITH WHITE WINE SAUCE. 
 Prepare two soles as in No. 433, put them in a buttered 
 saut6-pan, season with salt and pepper, moisten with a 
 pint of dry white wine, and set them into the oven to bake 
 for twenty -five minutes. Meantime melt and mix in a 
 stewpan two ounces of very fresh butter with the same 
 quantity of flour, by stirring it over the fire with a wooden 
 spoon for two or three minutes; season the same with 
 salt, pepper, and a little grated nutmeg; moisten with 
 half a pint of white broth, stirring the while. When the 
 
202 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 soles are cooked pour their liquor into the stewpan, stir, 
 and boil gently for one minute; add an ounce of fresh 
 butter J stir the sauce off the fire till the butter is well 
 melted ; dish up the soles, pour the sauce over, and serve. 
 
 Eemahks on Mullet, Red and Grey, 
 
 There are two distinct species of red jnuUet, one plain 
 red, and the other striped red. There is also another 
 species called grey mullet, but these are very common, 
 and do not possess the same delicacy and flavour as the 
 former. 
 
 Eed mullet should never be drawn j the gills only should 
 be taken out, as it is considered that the liver and trail 
 are the best part of this fish. 
 
 435. RED MULLET, MAITRE D'HOTEL. 
 
 Remove the gills of six red mullet; cut off the fins, 
 scrape, and dip them quickly in water ; wipe, and if large, 
 score them gently across two or three times ; then lay them 
 on a dish and pour over each a tablespoonful of salad-oil ; 
 strew an onion cut in small slices, a few sprigs of parsley, 
 salt and pepper, say three pinches of each, and let them 
 steep so for at least half an hour ; then take them out of 
 the dish, one by one, shaking and freeing them from the 
 oil, onions, and parsley, put them on a gridiron over a clear 
 fire for five or six minutes each side, when they must be 
 dressed on a hot dish, taking care not to break them, and 
 serve with a quarter of a pound of mattre d'h&tel butter 
 (No. 226) under and over. 
 
 436. RED MULLET, ITALIENNE. 
 Trim the mullet as in the foregoing, and lay them 
 in a buttered saut^-pan ; season with salt and pepper; 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 203 
 
 moisten with half a pint of white wine and a little essence 
 of mushrooms ; bake in a not too hot oven, taking care to 
 baste often. When cooked dish up, have some Italian 
 sauce (No. 204) ready, to which add the liquor in which 
 the mullet have been cooked, after having previously re- 
 duced it a little by a sharp boiling ; add a little essence of 
 anchovy (No. 174) and the juice of half a lemon ; stir the 
 contents well, then pour it over the fish, and serve. 
 
 437. RED MULLET A LA GENOISE. 
 
 Prepare the red mullet in a saut6-pan as in the fore- 
 going; moisten with half a pint of red wine and some 
 essence of mushrooms ; bake," baste, and dish up in the 
 same way ; then reduce the liquor in which the fish were 
 cooked, and mix it with some Genoise sauce (No. 207), 
 a little anchovy butter (No. 161), the juice of half a lemon, 
 and pour it over the fish before serving. 
 
 438. RED MULLET IN CASES. 
 
 Spread the mullet in a well-buttered sautd-pan as before, 
 season with salt and pepper, moisten with three glasses of 
 sherry and a little essence of fish (No. 175). Bake in 
 the oven, not forgetting the basting. When properly 
 done put them separately in oblong paper cases, made for 
 the purpose and saturated with olive-oil, put these on a 
 dish and keep hot at the door of the oven. Meanwhile 
 add another glass of sherry to the liquor remaining in the 
 saut^-pan, stir it in order to detach any glaze that may 
 have formed on the sides, add a little essence of anchovy 
 (No. 161), the juice of half a lemon, and a spoonful of 
 blanched and chopped parsley ; stir these well together ; 
 sauce the mullets in their cases with it, spread a little finely 
 bruised lobster coral over each, and serve. 
 
204 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 439. GREY MULLET, HOLLANDAISE SAUCE. 
 
 Remove the gills, cut the fins, cleanse the Inside, scale, 
 wash, and wipe three grey mullet j boil for about twenty 
 minutes in salted water, strain, and serve with half a pint 
 of Hollandaise sauce (No. 184) apart. 
 
 Grey mullet can also be prepared in the same way as red 
 mullet, viz., Maltre d'H6tel, k I'ltalienne, Genoise, and 
 Tomato sauce. 
 
 Remarks on Whitino. 
 
 This fish may be considered to be thoroughly English, as 
 it is caught in great abundance almost all round the coast, 
 but it should be eaten as soon as possible after being caught, 
 as it is quickly spoilt by packing and travelling. 
 
 440. FRIED WHITING. 
 
 Whiting before being fried should be skinned, and the 
 following is the proper way of doing it ; — With a cloth in 
 your left hand, take a firm hold of the whiting at the back 
 part of the head just below the gills, then with a pointed 
 knife in your right hand loosen the skin on each side of. 
 the fish (just over the upper dorsal fin) by inserting the 
 point and pulling the skin o£E sharp, one side after the 
 other. When the fish is skinned and trimmed, turn the 
 tail round into its mouth and hook it to its teeth ; then dip 
 each fish into some beaten eggs, cover it with fine bread- 
 crumbs and fry them in the frying fat, heated beforehand 
 for that purpose, sprinkle with salt before dishing them on 
 a dish, paper, or napkin, with fried parsley, and serve with 
 a lemon cut in four, or either of the following sauces. 
 Anchovy, Plain Butter, Shrimp, or Hollandaise. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 205 
 
 441. WHITING BOILED. 
 
 Trim only the number of whiting required, boil in some 
 salt water for about seven minutes; after which, dish 
 them up on a napkin on a dish and serve with either a 
 Tomato, Shrimp, Anchovy, Plain Butter, or Hollandaise 
 sauce. 
 
 442. BROILED WHITING. 
 
 Trim the whiting and slightly score them on both sides, 
 rub some oil over each and broil on a gridiron which has 
 been previously rubbed with chalk. When done on both 
 sides dish up on a napkin and serve with maitre d'hotel 
 butter (No. 226) or ravigote (No. 162). 
 
 443. FILLETS OF WHITING, ITALIAN. 
 
 Fillet four whiting, after having removed the skin as 
 described in No. 438. Cut each fillet in two and place 
 them side by side in a buttered saute-pan ; strew each with 
 a little finely chopped parsley, season with salt and pepper, 
 pour two ounces of melted butter, and squeeze the juice 
 of a lemon oyer them, cover with a buttered sheet of paper, 
 put the lid over the saut6-pan and boil for six or seven 
 minutes; after which, remove the lid and paper, dress 
 the fish carefully on a dish, pour some Italian sauce (No. 
 204), prepared for that purpose, over them, and serve. 
 
 444. FILLETED WHITING, VENITIAN. 
 
 Fillet four whiting as in No. 443, place these in a deep 
 dish, season with salt, pepper, a few sprigs of thyme, two 
 bay-leaves, three shalots cut in slices, and a few blades 
 of parsley; add one tablespoonful of good vinegar and 
 two of olive-oil. After having let them steep thus for at 
 least two hours, drain on a cloth,, dip each fillet sepa- 
 rately into light-made frying batter, and throw one after 
 
2o6 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 another into some frying fat, properly heated for that 
 purpose. As soon as they have acquired a light-brown 
 colour take them out of the fat, lay on a clean cloth 
 in order that the gi'ease may be absorbed; dish them in 
 a circle on a hot dish, pour some Venitian sauce over, and 
 serve. 
 
 ■ 445. FILLETS OF WHITING, CITIZEN STYLE. 
 
 Skin and fillet four whiting as in No. 444 ; place these 
 side by side in a large well-buttered gratin-dish; lay a 
 border of plain boiled potatoes, chopped iine, round them; 
 season the lot with salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg; 
 moisten with two ounces of melted butter ; squeeze the 
 juice of a lemon over the fillets and sprinkle these lightly 
 with some fine bread-crumbs ; cover the lot with a buttered 
 sheet of paper and set in the oven to bake gently for about 
 twenty or twenty-five minutes, before serving. 
 
 446. GURNARD A LA GENOISE. 
 
 Cut off the head and fins of two gurnards. Boil the fish 
 in water with a little salt and a glass of vinegar; when 
 done strain and skin, dish up, and pour some Genoise sauce 
 (No. 207) over. Then garnish them round with some quen- 
 elles of whiting (No. 275) previously made and cooked in 
 the water in which the gurnards were boiled, and serve. 
 
 Note. — Gurnards cooked or baked as above may be 
 served with Tomato, Sharp, Ravigote, or Italienne sauce, 
 according to taste. 
 
 447, GURNARD A L'INDIENNE. 
 
 In the same way as the foregoing, cut off the heads and 
 fins of the gurnards ; cleanse and wipe the fish well and 
 then .stuff them with some veal stuffing, well seasoned ; 
 sow up and score slightly on both sides. Place these 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 207 
 
 fish in a buttered baking-dish or saute-pan; season with 
 salt and pepper, sprinkle over some finely chopped 
 parsley, moisten with a little broth, some essence of mush- 
 rooms and two glasses of sherry,' and set these in the oven 
 to bake, taking care to baste them at least every five 
 minutes until they are done, which will take about half 
 an hour. Then dress the fish on a dish, out and pull away 
 the thread with which they were sewn, place the dish in 
 the open oven, add a little broth to detach the glaze from 
 the bottom and sides of the vessel in which the fish were 
 cooked, reduce it to a half-glaze and mix it with some 
 Indian sauce (No. 185). Add a little essence of anchovies, 
 stir it well before pouring over, and serve. 
 
 Eemaeks on Beeam. 
 
 Bream are taken in large quantities in the Broads and 
 livers of Norfolk during the spring months, and sent from 
 there to the great inland towns, where during Lent and 
 the Hebrew Passover they are in constant demand, and 
 command a good price. 
 
 448. SEA BREAM, MAItRE D'HOTEL. 
 
 Bream is prepared similarly to red mullet (No. 435), and 
 can also be cooked and dressed with any other fish sauce, 
 according to taste. 
 
 Remarks on Lampeeys, 
 
 Lampreys are in season from March to July, and are 
 still considered great delicacies in the London market, 
 although they do not possess such a high repute as in 
 bygone days. Their average size is from one and a half to 
 three pounds. TJiey principally come from the Severn and 
 the Thames, but none are in the market during the winter. 
 
2o8 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 449. LAMPREY. MATELOTTE. 
 
 Put two lampreys into an earthen or tin vessel with 
 plenty of freezing salt, with which they must be scoured 
 well, and afterwards thoroughly washed in several waters. 
 By this means only can they be freed from the slimy 
 mucus which adheres to them. Then trim and cut into 
 pieces of about three inches long ; place these in a stew- 
 pan with a sliced carrot and onion, a little ground mace, 
 a dozen pepper-corns, a few sprigs each of thyme and 
 parsley, three bay-leaves, a few button mushrooms, and 
 salt. Moisten this with a pint of port wine and let it 
 stew gently on a moderate fire till done; then take half 
 the liquor in which the fish have been stewed, reduce it in 
 a small saucepan with a little brown sauce, add a glass of 
 port wine, and as soon as this sauce is reduced to its proper 
 consistency add a little butter, a little essence of anchovies, 
 and the juice of a lemon. Pass it through a tammy into 
 a bain-marie containing the mushrooms at first put with 
 the fish ; add two dozen small stewed onions (287) and a 
 few quenelles of fish, previously cooked in fish broth. 
 Keep these hot, and meantime drain the pieces of lamprey; 
 dish them up ; pour the sauce over ; garnish round with 
 the tails of either prawns, shrimps, or crayfish, and serve. 
 
 450. LAMPREY. BORDELAISE. 
 
 Cleanse two fine lampreys as in the foregoing; form 
 them into a circular shape by fastening with a string; 
 stew in a pint of claret with the addition of vegetables 
 and dried herbs as in the Matelotte, to which two mashed 
 cloves of garlic must be added, and as soon as they are 
 properly cooked reduce their liquor in a stewpan with a 
 similar quantity of brown sauce and a little essence of 
 mushrooms to its proper consistency ; then add a little 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 209 
 
 essence of anchovies, a little grated nutmeg, a small 
 quantity of cayenne, and the juice of a lemon ; stir this 
 well together and pass it through a tammy into a bain- 
 marie containing two dozen button mushrooms and the 
 tail of a small lobster, properly prepared and cut into 
 small dice for that purpose. Dish up the lampreys after 
 having drained them; sauce them over; garnish vi'ith a 
 border of crolitons fried in butter, and serve. 
 
 451. LAMPREY, CITIZEN STYLE. 
 
 Clean two lampreys as in No. 450, rub them over gently 
 with some mixed white spices, place them in an earthen- 
 ware pan in a cool place, and let them be for twenty-four 
 hours ; after which, stew gently with the moisture that 
 has run from them, add an ounce of butter and half a 
 pint of beef gravy, or enough to cover the fish. When 
 nearly done add a glass of port wine, then complete the 
 cooking by sprinkling a tablespoonful of chopped parsley 
 over the fish, and dish up, when properly cooked with their 
 liquor, and serve. 
 
 Note. — Lampreys cut in pieces and properly seasoned 
 are also made into pies. They are exceedingly good and 
 appreciated in Gloucestershire, where they are prepared and 
 baked in that style, and eaten cold as well as hot. 
 
 Remarks on Haddock. 
 
 The weight of this fish varies from two to four pounds. 
 They are generally cured in London by smoking in sawdust 
 or burning fir-branches, but the far-famed Scotch " baddies " 
 come principally from Findhorn, near Aberdeen. 
 
 452. FRESH HADDOCK WITH EGG SAUCE. 
 
 Clean and wipe two haddocks, boil in salt water for 
 about ten minutes, drain, and dish up on a napkin, 
 
210 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 and serve with a sauce-boat full of Egg sauce (No. 182) 
 apart. 
 
 Haddock, when plain boiled, can be served with any kind, 
 of fish sauce. ■ 
 
 453. HADDOCK BROILED. MUSTARD SAUCE. 
 
 Take two haddocks and clean them ; score them four or 
 five times witb a sharp knife on both sides, and steep 
 in a little olive-oil, salt, and pepper, for about an hour; 
 after which, place them on a gridiron previously' rubbed 
 with chalk, and broil gently on a clear fire, taking care 
 not to break them in turning over. When done on both 
 sides dish up, and serve with Mustard sauce, (No. 223) 
 in a boat apart. 
 
 454. FILLETS OF HADDOCK A L'lTALIENNE. 
 
 Fillet two haddocks, remove the skin by passing a 
 pointed knife under the fillet so as to detach the tail end 
 of the skin from the flesh of the fish, then by taking a 
 firm hold of this detached piece of skin and inserting the 
 knife with the edge of the blade turned from you, draw 
 the skin towards you and keep moving the knife to and 
 fro, at the same time pressing the blade firmly on the 
 skin. Having thus removed the skin, cut each fillet in 
 two or more, trim, and lay them neatly in a saut^-pan 
 with two ounces of clarified butter ; "season with salt and 
 pepper, squeeze the half of a lemon over them, sprinkle 
 half a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, cover the lot with 
 a well-buttered paper, and cook for about ten minutes 
 on a moderate fire or in the oven ; after which, remove the 
 paper, drain the fillets, dish up, and pour some Italian 
 sauce (No. 204) over and serve. 
 
 Haddock filleted and cooked as above can be served 
 with any other sauce, such as Hollandaise, Genoise, 
 Venitienne, Sic, &c. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 211 
 
 455. HADDOCK AU GRATIN. 
 
 Skin, clean, and wipe two haddocks; place them in a 
 gratin-pan or dish previously buttered for that purpose, 
 season with salt and pepper, moisten with a gill of white 
 wine and the liquor of a pint of tinned champignons ; lay a 
 dozen of the mushrooms on the haddocks ; put an ounce of 
 butter, divided into eight parts, on the fish ; sprinkle a 
 tablespoonful of chopped parsley and four of raspings 
 over the fish, and put the gratin-pan in a well-heated oven 
 for fifteen or twenty minutes. Serve on the same dish. 
 
 456. HADDOCK FKIED. BUTTER SAUCE. 
 
 Prepare this in the same manner as fried whiting 
 (No. 240), and serve with plain Butter sauce. 
 
 457. FILLETED HADDOCK, CITIZEN STYLE, WITH 
 MAITRE D'HdTEL SAUCE. 
 
 Prepare this in the same way as fillets of whiting 
 (No. 445), and serve with Mattre d'H6tel sauce apart. 
 
 Smoked haddocks should not be broiled but boiled, as 
 any impurity that may be attached to the fish when bought 
 is thereby at once removed. 
 
 458. SMOKED HADDOCK. 
 
 Trim one or more haddocks and place them in a pan 
 covered with lukewarm water. Boil ; and after one minute 
 of ebullition drain the fish well, dish up, lay a little fresh 
 butter on it, and serve very hot. 
 
 459. SMOKED HADDOCK, CITIZEN STYLE. 
 Trini and boil two haddocks as ia No. 458, and then .skin 
 and bone them carefully ; then chop them into small dice, 
 and mix these well with a pound and a half of boiled 
 
212 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 potatoes, previously cooked and rubbed through a wire 
 sieve ; season with peppei', a little cayenne, and nutmeg ; 
 lay the mixture on a gratin-dish, nicely shaped ; melt two 
 ounces of fresh butter, mix with it the yolks of two eggs 
 properly beaten, and pour it over the fish, with a few 
 pieces of butter in addition ; then set the dish in a mode- 
 rately heated oven for about ten or twelve minutes, or till 
 it is of a nice golden-brown colour, and serve. 
 
 Eemarks on Herrings. 
 
 Fresh herrings are very nutritious, but ought to be 
 eaten only when full of roe, as they lose much of their 
 quality when otherwise. 
 
 460. FRESH HERRINGS. MUSTARD SAUCE. 
 
 Cut off the heads and fins of four herrings; clean, 
 scrape, and wash them well ; score them in the same way 
 as broiled grey mullets or whiting ; then place on a dish, 
 season with salt, pepper, and two tablespoonfuls of salad- 
 oil, and after having let them steep for half an hour put 
 them on a gridiron to broil for four or five minutes on 
 each side; then dress them on a dish and serve with 
 Mustard sauce (No. 223) apart. 
 
 461. FRESH HERRINGS FRIED WITH PLAIN BUTTER 
 SAUCE. 
 
 Prepare some herrings fis in No. 460 ; steep in milk ; 
 flour and bread-crumb them ; fry in boiling fat ; and serve 
 with plain Butter sauce apart. 
 
 Remarks on Halibut. 
 
 Halibut is only to be found on the northern coasts, and 
 grows to an enormous §ize, 200 lbs. being their ordinary 
 weight. Their season is March, April, and May. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 213 
 
 462. HALIBUT. OYSTER SAUCE. 
 
 This fish is prepared and cooked in every way as cod, 
 oyster sauce (No. 405). 
 
 It can also be fried (this being the mode the Jews eat it 
 the most), baked, broiled, and served with any fish sauce 
 (see Ood). 
 
 Remarks on Plaice, Floundees, &c. 
 
 Plaice, flounders, and dabs are flatfishes, like soles, tur- 
 bot, and halibut. They are generally plentiful in the market 
 during their proper season, which is spring ; they are caught 
 in great quantities in the Thames. 
 
 463. PLAICE, FLOUNDERS. AND DABS, FRIED. 
 
 These fish are prepared in every respect as halibut or 
 haddock. 
 
 Remaeks on Congee Eels. 
 
 Conger eels are found principally on the sea-coasts of the 
 south of England and Ireland ; they are sometimes of an 
 enormous size, weighing as much as a hundred pounds. 
 The flesh of the big fish is rather tough and coarse, but the 
 smaller fish can be prepared in the same way as fresh- 
 water eels, although they are not so delicate and nutritious. 
 
 Conger is in season from March to October. 
 
 464. CONGER EEL. MAITRE D'HStEL SAUCE. 
 Take a piece of conger eel weighing about two pounds ; 
 cleanse it most carefully ; wash and tie it round with 
 string, and blanch in boiling salt water for ten minutes ; 
 drain, and put it in a stewpan ; cover it with water, add 
 two sliced onions, a handful of parsley, two bay-leaves, a 
 
214 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 glass of vinegar, one clove of garlic, and season with salt 
 and pepper ; let it simmer for half an hour ; after which, 
 drain and dress on a dish, and serve with Maltre d'H6tel 
 sauce (No 159) apart. 
 
 465. CONGER EEL, ROASTED. 
 
 Cleanse, skin, and wash a piece of conger eel weighing 
 about three pounds j place this in a dish, with salt, pepper, 
 nutmeg, a gill of salad-oil, the juice of a lemon, a bay-leaf, 
 two sprigs of thyme, a sliced onion, and small carrot, to 
 steep for about two hours. After this, put the fish in a 
 buttered baking-pan ; cover with a buttered or oiled 
 paper and bake it in a hot oven for half an hour or till 
 well coloured ; then put it on a very hot dish, remove the 
 grease or fat from the pan in which it was baked ; put in 
 the pan a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a giU of 
 Spanish sauce (No 151), and the juice of a lemon ; stir this 
 ■well on the fire, and after boiling for a few minutes pour 
 over the fish and serve. 
 
 Remarks on Febsh-water Eels. 
 
 There are three or four distinct species of fresh- water 
 eels found in this country. The most common of these are 
 the sharp-nosed and the broad-nosed eels, inhabiting and 
 abounding in all fresh-waters throughout Europe, and in 
 short in almost every part of the world except the Arctic 
 regions. The eel will live a long time out of water, and 
 migrate from place to place by crawling overland ; but the 
 strangest part of all in the construction of this fish is, that 
 it possesses a heart located in its tail. 
 
 Eels vary in size, some weighing over ten pounds, but 
 usually from one to three. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 215 
 
 4«6. STEWED EELS, ENGLISH STYLE. 
 
 Eels are generally alive when brought into the kitchen ; 
 it is therefore necessary, on account of their tenacity of life, 
 to know an easy way of killing them ; this is done by merely 
 inserting the point of a sharp instrument into the spine at 
 the back of the head to the depth of an inch, when the eel 
 will become perfectly motionless. Then scour the fish well 
 with freezing salt, in order to remove the slimy mucus 
 attached to the skin ; after which, with a cloth in your left 
 hand take a firm hold of the eel's head, and with the right 
 band proceed to detach the skin just below the gills with 
 the point of a small kuife. When this is done take hold 
 of the loosened skin with your right hand and force it to 
 slide off the fish ; cut off the head, lay the fish flat on the 
 table, and with the same pointed knife open it from one 
 extremity to the other by pressing the point of the blade 
 against the backbone on both sides ; remove the gut, &c., 
 trim away the fins, clean and wipe thoroughly both halves 
 of the fish after having taken the bone out, then cut the 
 eel into pieces of about three inches long, place them in 
 a stewpan with a sliced carrot and onion, a few sprigs of 
 parsley and thyme, a few pepper-corns, four cloves, a blade 
 of mace, and a little salt. Moisten the lot with half a bottle 
 of port wine, cover with a buttered paper and replace the 
 lid on the stewpan ; set this on the stove-fire to stew gently 
 for about twenty minutes ; after which drain, and trim the 
 pieces, keeping their liquor to make the sauce, by melting 
 two ounces of butter into a small stewpan. When this is 
 done add two tablespoonfuls of flour and stir it over the 
 fire with a wooden spoon until it becomes slightly coloured, 
 then moisten gradually with the liquor in which the eels 
 were stewed ; add to it a gill or two of good stock and two 
 
2i6 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 glasses of port wine ; stir this sauce over the fire till it 
 boils, when it must be drawn to the corner of the stove, in 
 order to let it throw up gently the scum, which must be 
 skimmed oS ; then, if necessary, reduce the sauce to its 
 proper consistency, pass it through a tammy into the stew- 
 pan containing the pieces of eel, add a few prepared 
 mushroom buttons, a pat of fresh butter, a little blanched 
 and chopped parsley, the juice of a lemon, and a tea- 
 spoonful of essence of anchovy ; toss the. whole well 
 together over the fire till well mixed and boiling, then dish 
 the eel up, pour the remainder of the sauce over it, garnish 
 round with crolltons fried in butter, and serve. 
 
 467. EEL MATELOTTE. 
 
 Prepare a nice-sized eel as in No. 466, cut it into pieces 
 of three inches long, and place them in a saut6-pan with 
 two ounces of butter, the half of an onion chopped fine, 
 and half a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Season with 
 salt, pepper, a little nutmeg,- one clove of garlic, and two 
 bay-leaves; set these on the fire to brown a little; after 
 which, sprinkle a tablespoonful of flour; fry for two 
 minutes longer, stirring the while with a wooden spoon ; 
 then moisten with half a 'pottle of red wine (claret, 
 Burgundy, or Italian) and half a pint of stock; let it 
 simmer for twenty-five minutes, and put the pieces of eel 
 on a dish in a circular' order, so that each piece rests on 
 the other, viz., a slice of crodton and a piece of eel, and so 
 on. Then pass the sauce through a tammy into a stewpan, 
 add a little anchovy butter, together with the juice of a 
 lemon ; stir this on the fire till it boils, fill up the centre 
 of the dish with two dozen button onions (No. 287), pre- 
 viously stewed and glazed for that purpose, pour the sauce 
 over the lot, and serve. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 217 
 
 468. EEL MILANAISE. 
 
 Skin, bone, and cleanse two eels as previously described ; 
 cut them in pieces about two inches long and brown them 
 nicely in butter, properly seasoned with salt and pepper, 
 for eight minutes ; after which, take them out, squeeze the 
 juice of two lemons over them, sprinkle each with some 
 fine herbs and mace, egg and bread-crumb them, and fry 
 them in clarified butter. When properly done dish up 
 the pieces on a napkin and serve very hot, with a sharp 
 sauce to taste, apart. 
 
 469. FILLET OF EEL, FRIED. TARTARE SAUCE. 
 
 Fillet two eels of about one and a half pound each in 
 the usual way. Steep these in boiling water for four 
 minutes, then rub the outside of the fillets well with a 
 cloth, in order to remove the second oily skin ; cut them 
 in pieces three inches long, put them in a stewpan with 
 enough water to cover the lot, add a glass of vinegar, 
 a sliced onion and carrot, a "bouquet garni," salt, and a 
 dozen pepper-corns. Simmer for twenty minutes; after 
 which, let the eels cool for half an hour in the liquor; 
 then drain, and place them on a cold dish. Mix in a basin 
 two eggs with a tablespoonful each of oil and water, beat 
 this with a fork as for an omelet, then dip each piece of 
 eel in it; bread -ciumb them afterwards, and fry in hot 
 fat, previously heated for that purpose, till of a nice brown 
 colour ; then dish them up on a napkin garnished with 
 fried parsley, and serve with Tartare sauce (No. 221) in a 
 sauce-boat apart. 
 
 470. COLLARED EEL (COLD). 
 
 Skin, bone, and cleanse as described two eels of about 
 two pounds each ; lay each half flat on the table, the inside 
 
2i8 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 up ; sprinkle these with salt, pepper, nutmeg, fine herbs, 
 and ground mace. Roll them up tightly, fold each roll 
 in white kitchen paper, and tie them round with string ; 
 place in a saucepan with- a quart of ordinary stock, a 
 sliced onion and carrot, one .stick of celery, a "bouquet 
 garni," salt and pepper to taste, two glasses of sherry, and 
 a quarter of a pound of calf's gelatine. Boil this for half 
 an hour, then strain the liquor through a tammy into a 
 basin ; take the packets of eel out and let them cool, as 
 well as the liquor, which will turn into a jelly. When 
 cold untie and remove the paper from each eel ; lay on 
 a dish, and decorate with the ' jelly aforesaid and a few 
 sprigs of parsley well washed and dried. This is a delicious 
 and not expensive mode of preparing eels ; they will keep 
 several days in cold water. 
 
 Remarks on Smelts. 
 
 Smelts are great favourites in dinner menus, and are 
 also often used by cooks as a garnish to other fish, 
 although I do not advocate their employment as such. 
 Smelts are in season from September to May. 
 
 471. SMELTS, FRIED. 
 
 Take the. smelts, pull out the gills carefully, trim the 
 fins, and wipe the fish with a cloth. Then steep them in 
 milk and flour them, or else flour them first and pass 
 through beaten eggs, and afterwards put them in fine 
 bread-crumbs. Fry in some properly heated lard or fat 
 till of a nice colour and crisp ; dish up on a napkin ; 
 garnish with fried parsley, and serve with, a lemon cut 
 in four. 
 
 Note. — The above mode is generally the one used to serve 
 smelts, but they can also be dressed au gratin, in which 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 219 
 
 case the larger ones are preferable. Proceed as for sole au 
 gratin (No. 428). 
 
 Remarks on "Whitebait. 
 
 It is said that whitebait is the rich man's fish, beginning 
 when Parliament meets, and finishing when Parliament 
 adjourns. The fact is, that its season proper is from 
 February to August. There are many controversies on 
 the subject of whitebait, as to whether it is the fry of 
 other fish or a distinct species of fish. 
 
 Mr. Frank Bucklaud tells us that whitebait is nothing 
 else but the fry of sprats, herrings, gobies, weevers, sand- 
 eelsr smelts, pipe-fish, sticklebacks, and gore-bills. Be this 
 so or not, whitebait has now become a valuable article 
 of food, but owing to its extreme delicacy, it cannot be 
 convej'ed any great distance without injury ; neither can 
 it be kept fresh many hours after it has been caught. 
 
 472. WHITEBAIT. 
 
 The following is the only mode of properly cooking 
 whitebait : — Drain it on a clean cloth so that all the water 
 is thoroughly absorbed, but abstain as much as possible 
 from handling so delicate a fish. Then roll them in flour 
 and place them on a coarse sieve to remove any excess of 
 flour, by gently shaking them. Then drop them into well- 
 heated frying fat (lard preferred) of about 400° Fahrenheit 
 temperature, and as soon as they become crisp (which will 
 be in about one minute, and is shown by the whity-brown 
 colour) drain on a sieve for a minute or so. Sprinkle on 
 a little salt ; dish up on a napkin on a hot dish, and serve 
 with quarters of lemon, caj'enne pepper, and cut brown 
 bread and butter on plates apart. 
 
220 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 Remarks on Sprats. 
 
 These small fish might be employed to better advantage 
 and be a source of great income to fishermen were their 
 monetary value better understood ; in fact, sprats ouglit to 
 be placed among the most beneficial and profitable fish 
 caught, for by proper care and management they could be 
 turned into food, sauce, and paste, as well as manure. 
 The latter form of using them, however, would very soon 
 be discarded if their different modes and preparation as 
 an accessory to food were known. 
 
 Sprats can be preserved in the same manner as anchovies 
 and made into paste sauce and butter (see Anchovy Butter). 
 They can also be preserved in oil, in the same way as 
 sardines in tins (and this should be an industry in itself), 
 but very often are sold, I am sorry to say, with the brand 
 of the latter name. Therefore if sprats are offered and 
 sold to the public under different forms and names, their 
 quality is appreciated, and should be so recognised and dealt 
 with under their proper name, when they would, as a matter 
 of course, very soon assume their real commercial value. 
 
 473. SPRATS, BROILED. 
 
 Clean and wipe the sprats (which must be fresh) in a 
 coarse cloth, in order to remove the scales by gently 
 rubbing the fish ; place them afterwards on a gridiron 
 and broil over a brisk fire for two minutes on each side ; 
 sprinkle with salt, and serve on a very hot dish with a little 
 melted butter poured over. 
 
 474. SPRATS, FRIED. 
 
 Clean and wipe the sprats as in the foregoing, and follow 
 the directions given for smelts fried (No. 471). 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 475. SPRATS AU GRATIN. 
 
 After having cleaned and nibbed the largest sprats as 
 described, proceed-as for haddock au gratin (No. 455). 
 
 476. SPRATS, CITIZEN STYLE. 
 
 Prepare the sprats in the usual way; butter a baking- 
 dish ; mix well in a basin, a teaspoonful of fine herbs, a 
 little nutmeg, salt, pepper, and a quarter of a pound of 
 bread-crumbs; strew the bottom of the baking-dish with this 
 mixture, then arrange a layer of sprats, sprinkle on these 
 some of the bread-crumb mixture, and so on, for three 
 layers of sprats ; moisten with half a pint of good stock, 
 sprinkle the remainder of the bread-crumbs over, put on 
 the top a few pats of butter the size of a nnt, and place 
 the dish in a well-heated oven to bake for about half an 
 hour ; and before serving squeeze the juice of a lemon over 
 them. 
 
 Remarks on Lobsters, Crabs, and Crawfish. 
 
 Norwegian and Scotch lobsters are the best that come 
 into the London market. They are known by the texture 
 of their shells and are dark in colour. 
 
 Those coming from the Channel Islands and south coast 
 are light in colour and thin of shell, and seldom stand the 
 journey, most of them dying on the; way. These southern 
 lobsters are, however, very sweet and delicate in flavour, 
 if cooked immediately after being caught. 
 
 In buying lobsters the heaviest should be selected, and 
 the medium-sized ones are generally the best. 
 
 Lobsters should be boiled while alive by dropping them- 
 into boiling water with a little salt. The time to cook 
 
222 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 the same varies according to size ; small lobster will take 
 twenty minutes and a large one three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 Crabs make nice dishes when properly cooked and 
 decorated ; the best are caught on the south coast of 
 Devonshire, and often run very large in size, some having 
 weighed twelve and three-quarter pounds. Those from the 
 north, especially from Scotland, are much smaller, and at 
 times very sweet. 
 
 Crabs should be killed before being boiled or they are 
 likely to shoot off their claws ; you kill them by stabbing 
 them through under the tail with either a trussing-needle 
 or ice-prick. 
 
 Crawfish are treated in the same way as lobsters ; those 
 from the Scilly Isles, Cornwall, and Channel Islands are the 
 best. 
 
 477. PLAIN BOILED LOBSTERS, CRABS, AND 
 CRAWFISH. 
 
 Lobsters, crabs, and crawfish can always be obtained 
 ready cooked, and are generally eaten with oil, vinegar, 
 salt, and pepper, or with a Mayonnaise sauce. 
 
 478. LOBSTER A L'AMERICAINE. 
 Select a couple of live hen lobsters; take a firm hold 
 of them by the back with the left hand ; spread the tails 
 over the kitchen-table and cut them across in scollops 
 about an inch and a half thick ; cut the body in half, length- 
 wise ; save the residue liquid and the black part forming the 
 eggs or coral by putting them into a basin ; break off the 
 claws from the shell ; cut the large ones in two ; then with 
 the back of a large kitchen-knife or chopper break the 
 shells, without, however, separating them, so as to facilitate 
 removing the flesh when cooked ; trim the other small ones 
 and cut the body-shells again in two; put the lot in a 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 223 
 
 sautd-pan with half a gill of olive-oil previously made hot 
 and a few sprigs of thyme ; toss these over a brisk fire for 
 about five minutes. When the pieces of lobsters will have 
 assumed a red colour, sprinkle. one onion and two shalots 
 chopped fine; stir the contents over the fire for another 
 five minutes ; then add half a gill of brandy and set fire 
 to it ; stir for a few seconds to feed the flames ; after which, 
 moisten with half a pint of white dry wine and two fresh 
 tomatoes, peeled and chopped ; season with salt and pepper, 
 and simmer for ten minutes longer, taking care to turn the 
 pieces over. Meanwhile melt two ounces of fresh butter 
 in a small stewpan ; add the residue mixture, with a few 
 sprigs of chervil, tarragon, and a pounded bay-leaf; stir 
 this gently by the side of the fire till it boils; sprinkle 
 a small pinch-of cayenne pepper; stir and add the same 
 to the lobster ; mix the lot well together over the fire, and 
 when ready dish up the pieces of lobsters, pour the sauce 
 over, and serve. 
 
 Note. — The above recipe, together with a few good and 
 practical hints on cookery, was given to me by my old 
 friend Mr. T. Gamier, for the last twelve years chef at 
 the Oaf 6 Eoyal, Regent Steet, to whom I herewith convey 
 my most humble and grateful thanks. 
 
 Eemarks on Tegut. 
 
 There are several species of trout. Some are called 
 salmon-trout and migrate to the sea; their flesh is of a 
 pink rosy colour, and in taste differ but slightly from 
 young salmon. Their weight varies from three to sixteen 
 pounds. Others are non-migratory, live in lakes, rivers, 
 and streams, and the colder and more rapid the water the 
 better the fish. The flesh is almost white and very delicate ; 
 
224 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 the usual weight seldom exceeds three pounds, although 
 there have been instances of common trout having been 
 caught in lakes and rivers weighing fifteen pounds. 
 The season for trout is from March to September. 
 
 479. TROUT A LITALIENNE. 
 
 Remove the inside of two trout, through the gills, with- 
 out cutting the fish; cut off the fins, wash and wipe the 
 trout, and boil in salt water and a glass of vinegar for 
 six minutes or more, according to the size of the fish; 
 drain and divest of the skin, and lay them on a dish 
 and keep hot. Meanwhile add to half a pint of Italian 
 sauce (No. 205), previously made for that purpose, a pat of 
 anchovy butter, a little nutmeg, and lemon- juice; work 
 this well together, and pour over the fish before serving. 
 
 480. TROUT A LA MEUNlfeRE. 
 
 Cleanse, trim, wash, and wipe two or more trout. 
 Score these three times on each side and pass them through 
 the flour, taking care to shake them well, before putting 
 in a frying-pan with three ounces of clarified butter; add 
 a teaspoonful of blanched and chopped parsley, as well 
 as the juice of two lemons, and when the fish is nicely 
 coloured on both sides, serve on a hot dish with the 
 remainder of clarified butter poured over it. 
 
 481. TROUT A LAURORE. 
 
 Boil, skin, and trim the trout ; then place on a silver 
 or gratin-dish, mask each fish with reduced Allemande 
 sauce (No. 156), lay a fine wire sieve across the dish, with- 
 out touching the fish ; then rub with a wooden spoon the 
 yolks of two hard-boiled eggs over each fish through the 
 ^ieve, taking care that the curling shreds cover the sur- 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 225 
 
 face of each trout equally. About half an hour before 
 serving, put them in the oven to get a fine amber hue; 
 after which, pour round the trout some sauce made as 
 follows : — Put half a pint of Bechamel sauce (No. 154) into 
 a bain-marie, add to it a pat of lobster -butter, the yolks 
 of three eggs properly beaten, a tablespoonful of tarragon 
 vinegai", and a little cayenne ; mix these well together with 
 a small whisk or wooden spoon into the bain-marie before 
 pouring out, and finish by making a border with two dozen 
 mussels fiied in batter. 
 
 482. BROILED TROUT. HOLLANDAISE SAUCE. 
 
 Clean and split a trout at the back, oil it over, season 
 virith nutmeg, salt, and pepper; then half an hour after, 
 broil it over a moderately hot fire, and when done serve 
 with some Hollandaise sauce (No. 184) in a sauce-boat 
 apart. 
 
 Note. — Trout can be prepared in every variety of form 
 and style in which salmon is dressed and served. 
 
 Remaeks on Pike oe Jack. 
 
 This fish, which might be called the water-wolf or fresh- 
 water shark on account of its voraciousness and cannibalism, 
 can in that respect be compared to the conger eel. 
 
 Pike will feed on ducklings, and any sort of fish, as 
 well as on its own species, and is not at all particular as 
 to size of its victim, as there are examples of two pike 
 weighing some nineteen pounds having been caught alive, 
 fastened firmly together, the head of one within the mouth 
 and jaws of the other. 
 
 Pike are the largest of fresh- water fish, some having been 
 caught weighing as much as sixty pounds and measuring 
 
226 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY, 
 
 nearly four feet in length. Of course, fish of that size 
 are scarce, but the general weight varies from five to nine 
 pounds, and the latter are the best for culinary purposes. 
 The fl^esh is white, firm, and rather pleasing to the palate 
 when properly prepared ; but the roe causes a disagreeable, 
 nauseous feeling, and should never be eaten. 
 
 4S3. PIKE A LA LYONNAISE AU BLEU. 
 
 The larger the pike the better for this dish, and it will 
 improve if kept two days in a cool place after being caught. 
 Scale,* draw the gills, cut off the fins, and thoroughly 
 cleanse and wipe the pike ; then with a string tie the 
 head, and truss the fish into the shape of the letter S. 
 Afterwards put the fish in the kettle covered with " Court 
 Bouillon " (No. 392), and simmer for three-quarters of an 
 hour ; then take the fish-kettle to a cool place, let the pike 
 remain in the liquor for at least twelve hours ; if twenty- 
 four all the better, as there is no comparison in the taste 
 and quality of a pike that has soaked for twenty-four hours 
 and one that has only been in the " Court Bouillon " for a 
 couple of hours. When wanted, take up the fish very 
 carefully from, the strainer and lay it on a dish with the 
 same care, remove the string, decorate with a few sprigs 
 of fresh parsley, and moisten with a pint of sauce made 
 with oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, and a teaspoonful of finely 
 chopped parsley, well mixed together, in quantity of two- 
 thirds oil to one of vinegar. 
 
 Note. — Pike cooked in the same way may also be served 
 with Mayonnaise or Tartare sauce (Nos. 218 or 221). ' 
 
 * The easiest way to remove the scales of pike is by placing the fish 
 in a sink and pour some boiling water over it, when the scraping will 
 be effectually done. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 227 
 
 484. BOILED PIKE. ITALIAN SHARP SAUCE. 
 
 After having scaled, cleansed, and wiped a nice pike, tie 
 it up in the same way as in the foregoing, and boil it in 
 a " Court Bouillon " (No. 392) for about fifty minutes, 
 more or less, according to the size of the fish ; after 
 which, let it rest and cool in the liquor for twenty-four 
 hours. 
 
 When the time comes for warming the fish, drain it, 
 pour the " Court Bouillon " into another vessel, clean the 
 kettle, and replace the liquor with the pike in it, to warm 
 for about twenty minutes, without, however, letting it boil ; 
 then drain, and dish up on a napkin, remove the string, 
 and send to table with some Italian sharp sauce (No. 205) 
 in a sauce-boat apart. 
 
 Note. — Pike cooked in the above manner may be served 
 with any fish sauce, according to taste. 
 
 485. PIKE BAKED, CITIZEN STYLE. 
 
 Prepare a large pike in the same manner as described 
 above; fill the paunch with some well-seasoned veal stuffing, 
 sew it up with a trussing-needle and fine string, truss as 
 before specified in the form of the -letter S, make several 
 deep incisions on both sides of the fish, and place in a 
 baking-dish seasoned with two chopped shalots, one table- 
 spoonful of parsley, and two of mushrooms, salt,- pepper, 
 and half a dozen cloves ; add between six and eight ounces 
 of fresh butter, half a. bottle of cooking sherry, and half 
 a pint of good stock. Cover the lot with a well-buttered 
 paper, and put the fish thus prepared in a well-heated 
 oven to bake for about an hour, taking care to frequently 
 baste it with its liquor. When done dish up, pour two 
 glasses more, of sherry, in order to detach all the glaze 
 
228 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 and herbs from the bottom and sides of the baking-dish 
 in which the fish has been baked; pass this through a 
 tammy into a small stewpan in which half a pint of good . 
 brown sauce has previously been warmed, mix and reduce 
 the whole to a proper consistency ; add one ounce of fresh 
 butter, a teaspoonful of anchovy essence, the juice of a 
 lemon, and a little cayenne ; mix this well together on the 
 stovo, and pour over the fish before serving, having pre- 
 viously removed the string. 
 
 486. PIKE IN QUENELLES. 
 
 Prepare two or three pounds of pike in quenelles (see 
 Fish Forcemeat, No. 275) in the following manner : — When 
 cold, lay the forcemeat in large spoonfuls separately on the 
 table, roll these with your hands iiito the shape of sausages, 
 and cook them by poaching in ordinary boiling stock for 
 five or six minutes. Meanwhile have a pint of good re- 
 duced Veloute sauce (No. 153) ready and hot; when the 
 quenelles are properly poached, strain and put them in a 
 bowl or deep dish ; pour the sauce over, and serve. 
 
 Note. — Pike, previous to being made into forcemeat, 
 should be filleted, and the following is the proper mode 
 of operation. The smaller fish should be used for this 
 purpose : — Lay the fish on the table with its back towards 
 you, insert the knife below the gill with your left hand, 
 press lightly on the upper part of the fish, then draw 
 the knife down close to the backbone till the fillet is 
 removed; repeat the same thing on the other side, and 
 lay the fillets on the table with the skin downward ; insert 
 the edge of the knife close to the skin at the extreme end, 
 draw it to and fro, in keeping the blade closely pressed to 
 the skin, when it will detach itself from the fillet. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 229 
 
 Remarks on Perch. 
 
 The perch is one of the most beautiful fish. Its colour is 
 golden bronze, transversed with bars of dark green, the 
 whole shaded with a lovely iridescence, and fins of a splendid 
 red tinge as seen sometimes in old-stained glass. 
 
 Its flesh is much appreciated by epicures, as witness 
 "water souchet " as served at ministerial dinners and 
 large banquets. It seldom weighs more than two pounds, 
 although some have been caught in the Norfolk Broads 
 weighing as much as four and a half pounds. 
 
 487. PERCH, FRIED. 
 
 Remove the gills, scale, and thoroughly cleanse the 
 perch ; prick them slightly on both sides, and place 
 in a dish with a little salad-oil, salt, pepper, the juice of 
 two lemons, an onion shred fine, and half a spoonful of 
 chopped parsley ; let the fish pickle for an hour, then wipe 
 and flour them in -the usual way, fry in a properly heated 
 fat to a nice colour, and serve very hot with quarters 
 of lemon. 
 
 488. PERCH, GARDENER STYLE. 
 
 Cleanse the perch as in the foregoing; clean also a 
 handful of parsley-roots, and boil for half an hour in a 
 quart of salted water; after which, throw the perch in and 
 boil for five or six minutes longer; then dress in a dish 
 with some of the liquor ; spread the roots on the fish, and 
 serve with melted butter and boiled potatoes apart. 
 
 489. PERCH AU GRATIN. 
 
 After having cleansed and scaled three or four perch in 
 the usual way, put them in a saute-pan properly buttered. 
 
230 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 and a little salt sprinkled over. Moisten with two glasses 
 of sherry, and cover with a buttered sheet of paper. 
 Boil on the Stove, and afterwards put them into a 
 moderately heated oven to bake for ten minutes, taking 
 care to baste them meanwhile two or three times ; trans- 
 fer carefully to a buttered gratin-dish, sprinkle over them 
 some fine herbs ; mix the remainder of the liquor in which 
 the fish was baked with a gill of Spanish sauce (No. 151), 
 and pour it over ; sprinkle with bread-crumbs, set on the 
 oven to gratin for ten or twelve minutes, and serve. 
 
 490. PERCH A LA VENITIENNE. 
 
 When the number of perch required have been thoroughly 
 cleansed, as described in the previous numbers, boil them 
 in "Court Bouillon" (No. 392) for seven or eight minutes; 
 dish up in a row, moisten witb some Venitienne sauce (No. 
 206), and serve. 
 
 491. FILLETS OF PERCH A L'lTALIENNE. 
 
 The filleting of perch is done in" the same way as that of 
 pike. Lay the fillets in a saut^-pan with some clarified 
 butter; season with salt, pepper, a little nutmeg, and 
 lemon-juice. Set the fillets to simmer on the fire for 
 about . ten minutes, and when thoroughly done drain on a 
 cloth, dish up in the form of a circle, pour some Italian 
 sauce (No. 204) over, and send to table. 
 
 Fillets of perch thus prepared can also be served with 
 any other fish sauce, ,from which the dish will take its 
 name, viz., k la Hollandaise, k la Ravigotte, &o., &c. 
 
 492. FILLETS OP PERCH A LA ROMAINE. 
 Prepare a dozen fillets of perch in the usual manner; 
 
 pickle these for an hour as for perch fried, wipe and 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 231 
 
 flour in the same way, then pass them through some yolks 
 of eggs well beaten and salted ; fry in olive-oil till of a 
 nice colour ; drain, and dish up in a circle, pour some 
 Tomato sauce (No. 217) over them, after having mixed 
 with it a pat of anchovy butter, and serve. 
 
 493. PERCH, ANGLER'S STYLE. 
 
 Take the perch as caught by the river-side, not drawn 
 or otherwise cleaned. Procure some stiflf clay, and with it 
 give the fish a thin coating of about the sixteenth of an 
 inch thick. Having previously lighted a fire of wood, so 
 as to produce a quantity of hot-fire-holding embers and 
 cinders, bury the fish in it for about twenty minutes or 
 more, according to the size, when it will be baked and 
 found to eat to perfection. 
 
 Note. — Any other kind of fresh-water fish can be cooked 
 in this style. Anglers, when out for the day, will find it 
 worth trying. For their particular benefit the recipe is 
 included, and to them it is dedicated. 
 
 Remaeks on Carp. 
 
 Carp caught in rapid waters are held in high estimation, 
 especially on the Continent ; but those found in stagnant 
 waters and feeding on muddy food have a very muddy 
 flavour. To prevent this taste from being so pronounced, 
 carp should, after being taken out of a pond, be placed in 
 running water in a box (with plenty of perforated holes) 
 before being cooked. No doubt the monks had in olden 
 times some excellent recipes for cooking carp, but these 
 must have been lost with the destruction of their orders and 
 monasteries. 
 
 Carp live to a very great age, some say for centuries, 
 
232 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 and reach the weight of twenty- five pounds; at least 
 some were caught of that weight. The flesh of the carp 
 is of a white-rosy colour, rather indigestible, and it requires 
 to be cooked in well-seasoned sauces. 
 
 It is absolutely necessary when cleaning the fish to ex- 
 tract an angular substance called the gall-stone, which is 
 located at the back of the head. If not removed it will 
 impart a bitter taste and render the best fish almost unfit 
 for table. 
 
 494. CARP A LA BOURGIGNONE. 
 
 Take two carp of three or four pounds each ; scald them 
 to enable the scales to be removed more efiiciently ; draw 
 through the gills, and clean thoroughly. Place them 
 in a saut6-pan with half a bottle of Burgundy, a gill 
 of brown sauce, the same quantity of good stock, four 
 shalots, two cloves, a blade of mace, a little thyme, one 
 bay-leaf, a few trimmings of mu.shrooms, and salt and 
 pepper to taste. Set this to stew gently on the fire for 
 about twenty minutes; then take the fish out carefully 
 and dish them up ; pass the liquor through a fine-pointed 
 strainer into a small saucepan; boil it; draw it on the 
 side of the stove ; if not of its proper consistency as a 
 sauce, skim it and reduce it by boiling again ; then pour 
 it over the carp and serve. 
 
 495. CARP A LA PERIGUEOX. 
 
 Prepare two or more carp as in No. 494 ; stew them in 
 white wine -with salt and pepper for twenty minutes, and 
 then drain and dish up. Meanwhile prepare some peri- 
 gueux butter (No 167); add to it a gill of good stock or 
 brown sauce, a pat of anchovy butter, and the juice of a 
 lemon. Stir this well together on the fire, and pour ii 
 over the fish before sending to the table. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 233 
 
 496. FRIED CARP. 
 
 For this mode small fish should bo used. Clean, scale, 
 draw, and wipe , six carp; split down the back and open 
 flat; season with salt and pepper, dip them in flour, and 
 fry to a nice colour; dish them up, garnish round with 
 fried parsley, and serve with quarters of lemon. 
 
 497. CARP STEWED, ENGLISH FASHION. 
 
 For dressing carp in this way, see the directions fcr 
 stewing eel, English style (No. 466). 
 
 498. CARP A LA SICILIENNE. 
 
 Prepare two or three nice carp in the usual way ; put 
 them in a kettle with enough " Court Bouillon " (No. 392) 
 to boil for ten or twelve minutes ; put the kettle aside in 
 a cool, place, and when the liquor is quite cold draw out 
 the fish ; remove the liquor in order to enable the kettle 
 to be cleaned ; after which, replace the fish in it with the 
 " Court Bouillon ; " set this to warm gently, without boiling, 
 for twenty minutes ; then drain and dish up the fish ; pour 
 some Sicilian sauce (No. 211) over, and serve. 
 
 499. TENCH. 
 
 This fish, being somewhat similar to the carp, may be 
 dressed in the various modes in which that fish js pre- 
 pared. Both kinds make excellent matelotte, and it is not 
 unusual to prepare such a dish with carp, tench, and eel, 
 all mixed and stewed together. 
 
234 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY: 
 
 Eemarks on Barbel. 
 
 The barbel may be considered to be a water-pig, as its 
 habits and mode of living in the water are very much like 
 those ol a pig on land. It cannot be classed as good food, 
 as its eggs are said to be poisonous and to produce the 
 same symptoms as bella-donna. 
 
 500. BARBEL BROILED. MAflRE D'HOTEL BUTTER. 
 
 Cleanse, scale, and wipe the inside of two barbel very 
 carefully ; score them three or four times on each side ; 
 steep for half an hour in four tablespoonfuls of olive- 
 oil ; season with salt and pepper ; and twenty minutes 
 before serving broil them on a moderate fire for eight or 
 ten minutes each side ; dish up on a hot dish, and serve 
 with some maitre 'd'h6tel butter (No. 226) in the usual 
 way. 
 
 Barbel can also be fried as well as baked, and served 
 with either Sharp or Ravigote sauce. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 REMARKS ON BEEP. 
 
 There is a prevailing idea in England that beef should be 
 eaten either grilled or roasted ; this is a great mistake, as 
 there are many cuts and different parts, as described at the 
 beginning of this work, which, could not with credit to the 
 cook be prepared in those ways. I wHI'tfrerefore give the 
 different modes I consider best suited for each part. 
 
 501. ROUND OF BEEF BOILED ENGLISH FASHION. 
 
 Procure a piece of pickled round or silver-side of beef, 
 weighing about eight pounds. Put this, after having washed 
 it, into a pot with enough cold water to cover it well. Boil 
 it ; skim the scum as it rises to the surface j then drop 
 in three or four whole carrots, two large onions with two 
 cloves stuck in each, and, if handy, two heads of celery; 
 let the pot simmer by the side of the stove for two hours, 
 and add four whole turnips. Let the simmering be con- 
 tinued for another hour, then add the quarters of a small 
 cabbage ; boil gently again for an hour — making in all four 
 hours' boiling ; after which, strain the beef, and dress it on 
 a large hot dish, with the cooked vegetables as a garnish, 
 alternately placed with half a dozen small suet dumplings, 
 and serve. 
 
 502. BRISKET OF BEEF-ECARLATE. 
 Briskets, like rounds of beef, are generally obtained from 
 the butcher, all ready pickled, but that is not the proper way 
 
 =35 
 
236 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 of salting or curing them : this must be efEected in the follow- 
 ing manner : — Mix well together in a pan a brine composed 
 of six pounds of common salt, a quarter of a pound of salt- 
 petre, half a pound of moist sugar, two bruised bay-leaves, 
 half a'^Qaspoonful of thyme, and same quantity of winter- 
 savory and sweet marjoram, also three blades of mace and 
 twelve cloves. Take a brisket of beef well covered with 
 fat, bone it ; \ise the bones for the stock. Rub the brisket 
 well with the|mixture for three or four minutes each day 
 for five days /in succession, taking care, in laying it on 
 the brine ii^t a cool place, that it should rest on the 
 opposite side each day ; then simply turn it over once 
 a day for thV succeeding five days, making altogether 
 ten days for salting the piece of brisket — if to be eaten 
 
 , hot ; but if intended to be pressed and eaten cold (which 
 is the usual manner), it should remain in the mixture 
 at least five days longer, in order that the flavour of 
 the herbs and spices should be sufficiently absorbed. 
 This mode of salting is equally applicable to every other 
 kind of meat. The brisket of beef being thus ready for 
 cooking, place it in a pan with plenty of cold water and 
 the same quantity of vegetables as in the foregoing instruc- 
 tions. Boil, and skim, with the same care, for about four 
 
 A or five hours, according to the size of the brisket. When 
 cooked, drain, and dress in the same manner as the 
 
 'round of beef, with the vegetables as a garnish, if to be 
 eaten hot ; or place in a perforated zinc box, made for 
 that purpose, in a cool place. Lay on the meat a piece of 
 board made to fit in the box, and put on this all the 
 weights and stones you can get, in order to press the 
 brisket well ; leave it thus for at least twelve hours, when 
 the weights can be removed, the piece of meat trimmed 
 and glazed (No. 362) ; then dress it in a cold dish with a 
 few sprigs of parsley and serve. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 237 
 
 Note. — All the vegetables should, be put in at the same 
 time when the brisket is meant for pressing. 
 
 603. BRAIZED BEEF, CITIZEN STYLE. 
 
 Take a piece of top-side of beef, trim it nicely, cut some 
 fat bacon into eight shreds of about four inches long by a 
 quarter of an inch square, interlard the piece of beef with 
 these by inserting each slice into a large larding-needle, 
 then fasten the beef round with a piece of string so as 
 to secure its shape. Put the pieces of trimmings into a 
 braizing-pan with a few broken bones, if any ; lay the piece 
 of beef on these and garnish with two onions each stuck 
 with two cloves, two heads of celery, two'carrots, a "bouquet 
 gami," and one blade of mace. Moisten with two quarts of 
 good stock and one gill of brandy. Set the beef to simmer 
 very gently for about four hours, taking care to often baste 
 and turn it over in its gravy, in order to glaze it. Mean- 
 while glaze separately twenty-four small onions (No. 280) 
 and two cabbages (No. 295). When the beef is done, drain 
 it, remove the string, dish it up, make a border with the 
 glazed onions and cabbages, or any other glazed vegetables 
 that may be preferred ; as well as mashed potatoes, cro- 
 quettes, or mushrooms stewed in the glaze, and stuffed 
 tomatoes, &c. &c. Skim the fat off the glaze, strain it over 
 the lot, and serve. 
 
 This way of braizing meat can be applied to any cut or 
 part of the animal, viz. , ribs, rump, brisket, round or thick 
 ilank, as well as fillet of beef. The process of larding can 
 also be omitted, not only as a matter of economy, but of 
 taste as well. 
 
 504. BRAIZED BEEF MILANAISE. 
 Procure about ten pounds of thick flank, or a nice cut of 
 round of beef of a similar weight j trim, interlard, and bind 
 
238 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 it with string, as described in No. 503 ; boil it in the stock- 
 pot for a couple of hours ; after which, transfer the beef 
 into a braizing-pan on a drainer. Moisten with half a bottle 
 of white wine and one quart. of good broth; add the same 
 quantity of vegetables and " bouquet garni " as in the 
 previous number. Set this to simmer very slowly for two 
 hours, basting occasionally with its liquor in order to glaze 
 the meat. When. the beef is cooked take it out of the pan, 
 drain it, remove the string, and keep it hot; strain the 
 gravy through a fine strainer into a stewpan, skim off the 
 fat, add half a pint of Espagnole sauce ; set it to the boil, 
 skim and reduce it a little. Meanwhile have one pound of 
 macaroni cooked in the usual way, and drained, in a stew- 
 pan ; season with mignonette pepper and grated nutmeg ; 
 put in a gill of the reduced sauce together with two ounces 
 of grated parmesan cheese and an ounce of butter; toss 
 the macaroni up, so as to mix it well with the sauce and 
 cheese ; then dress the meat on a dish, form a border round 
 it with the macaroni, pour the remainder of the glaze sauce 
 over, and serve. 
 
 505. BRAIZED BEEF NAPOLITAINE, 
 
 Prepare a top-side piece of beef weighing about ten 
 pounds in the same way as for beef, citizen style. Put it 
 in a braizing-pan, with the same kinds and quantity of 
 vegetables and "bouquet garni," moisten with a quart of 
 good stock and half a bottle of red wine (not port) ; let this 
 simmer on a slow fire for three and a half hours, frequently 
 basting the meat with its liquor ; then put the meat on a 
 dish, strain the liquor through a fine strainer, skim the fat, 
 put the gravy back again in the braizing-pan with the meat, 
 add half a pound of well washed and picked currants, and 
 simmer for another half -hour. See that the meat is nicely 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 239 
 
 glazed ; after which, dress it on a dish, skim the fat from 
 the glaze again, before pouring it over the meat, and serve. 
 
 506. BEEF A LA MODE. 
 
 A la mode beef is a popular and favourite dish in 
 domestic cookery. Although it differs but slightly from 
 braized beef, its success depends entirely (as the latter) 
 on its proper cooking, which must be very slow. If too 
 quickly cooked it will produce an insipid and white gravy, 
 instead of the proper savoury and nourishing substance. 
 In colour it should be of a dark red. Take about eight 
 pounds of nicely trimmed thick flank of beef, lard this, in 
 the direction of the grain, with half a pound of fat bacon, 
 cut into strips half an inch thick, which must have been 
 previously sprinkled with pepper; then fasten it round 
 with a string, put it in a stewpan with three-quarters 
 of a bottle of French white wine, one gill of brandy, two 
 quarts of stock, four calf's feet, previously blanched and 
 boned, and about two ounces of bacon-rind ; season with 
 salt and pepper, boil it, and skim ; then add four large 
 carrots, two onions, six cloves, a " bouquet garni," and two 
 heads of celery ; put it to simmer, very gently, by the side 
 of the stove for at lea.st five hours, with the stewpan well 
 covered. When the beef is done take it out, as well as 
 the calf's feet and carrots. Keep these hot by the side 
 of the stove. Meanwhile strain the gravy through a 
 pointed strainer into a small saucepan, remove the fat 
 carefully, reduce the gravy one-fourth by quick boiling, 
 untie the string, dish the beef up with the calf's feet, 
 each cut into six pieces, around it, garnish with the carrots, 
 shaped into corks, and a dozen glazed onions (No. 280). 
 Pour the gravy over the lot ; if too much, save it for 
 another time. 
 
240 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 Note. — A clove of garlic is very often inserted into the 
 luoat and gives it a nice flavour, although this is a matter 
 of taste and not essential. Meat can be braized without 
 the help of wine, but of course the savoury taste will not 
 be the same. 
 
 A la mode beef is also often served as a cold dish for 
 luncheons; in that case it would have to be cooked the 
 day before it is wanted, and the whole of it turned into ■ 
 a basin, which will set to a firm jelly. When ready to 
 serve, simply turn it out of the basin on to a dish. 
 
 507. PORTER-HOUSE STEAK. 
 
 Cut two slices, one and a half inches thick, off the 
 thickest part of a sirloin of beef, with the fillet or undercut 
 attached to the bone in the same manner as loin-mutton- 
 chops. Flatten these a little with the cutlet-bat, oil, and 
 pepper them slightly ; then grill them on a clear fire for 
 about fifteen to eighteen minutes, taking care to turn 
 them, often as necessary, to prevent burning. Meantime 
 put two ounces of butter in a saut6-pan, cut crossways six 
 nice ripe tomatoes, lay these in the saute-pan with the skin 
 downwards, and fry them thus for five minutes without 
 turning. When the steaks are cooked, sprinkle each side 
 with salt, dish them up, and garnish with the tomato 
 halves in the same way as they were cooked. Sprinkle 
 each with a little' salt and pepper before serving. Tomatoes 
 cut in two are also grilled, but must always be kept with 
 the skin under, otherwise they will lose part of their seed 
 and liquor. 
 
 Porter- House steaks are also served with grilled mush- 
 rooms; in that case take a dozen large and fresh mush- 
 rooms, clean and peel them well, broil them over a not 
 too fierce fire for four minutes, sprinkle salt and pepper 
 over them, and dress with the steaks. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 241 
 
 Remarks on Roast Beef and Roasting in General. 
 
 I have purposely abstained from mentioning the rump, 
 sirloin, and ribs of beef in my braizing-recipes, because I 
 think the former should only be used as steaks, and the 
 two latter for roasting, as " the roast beef of Old England " 
 is not likely to die out for a while, notwithstanding all the 
 new recipes that may be introduced. I therefore contend 
 that the best cuts of the animal should be reserved for that 
 purpose, and not employed in any other way. 
 
 The roasting of meat is done, according to the kitchen 
 arrangements, in three different ways, either by putting 
 the meat on a baking-dish in the oven with a little suet 
 over it, or by hanging the meat on a hook in a gas roasting- 
 closet ; but the best mode is by fixing the joint on a spit, if 
 there is an open fire-range. This, however, requires care 
 and attention, as the fire must be constantly replenished 
 with fuel (wood being the best for roasting) and never 
 allowed to get low ; it is also necessary to avoid draughts 
 between the screen and fire, as in that case a joint will 
 take much longer to cook. The fire should also be 
 thoroughly bright before putting the meat to roast. 
 
 When roasting before a fire, half a pint of broth should 
 be put in the dripping-pan for basting the joint with, at 
 least five times during the process of cooking. This applies 
 also to game as well as poultry. 
 
 The time required for cooking joints will be modified by 
 circumstances, as there are different qualities and natures 
 of meat which cook more or less rapidly. Always test the 
 joint by pressing the thickest parts with the finger before 
 removing it from the fire ; if these give way to the pres- 
 sure the cooking will be perfect, but if there is a certain 
 amount of resistance the meat is not yet cooked. 
 
 Q 
 
242 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 The following is the approximate time required for roast- 
 ing the different joints, poultry, and game : — 
 
 For a joint of beef weighing ten pounds, two hours and 
 
 a quarter, 
 a leg of mutton weighing nine pounds, one hour and 
 
 three-quarters, 
 a loin or neck of veal weighing five pounds, one 
 
 hour and twenty minutes. 
 a leg of pork weighing ten pounds, three hours, 
 a loin of pork weighing six pounds, one hour and 
 
 forty minutes, 
 a goose weighing seven pounds, one hour and forty 
 
 minutes, 
 a turkey weighing ten pounds, two hours, 
 a fowl weighing about three pounds, thirty-five 
 
 minutes, 
 a pigeon, a quarter o£ an hour. 
 a duck, twenty minutes, 
 larks, eight minutes. 
 
 partridges or woodcocks, twenty minutes, 
 a pheasant, thirty-five minutes. 
 a wild-duck, a quarter of an liour. 
 a leveret, half an hour, 
 a rabbit, twenty minutes, 
 a hare's back, thirty- five minutes. 
 Meat for roasting requires no flavouring — the main point 
 is to cook it when neither too fresh nor too high. 
 
 508. FILLET OF BEEF, INDIAN STYLE. 
 
 Get a fillet of beef weighing about eight pounds ; trim 
 and cut off the sinewy skin which covers it with a thinly 
 bladed knife ; lard in the usual way with thin strips of 
 fat bacon. Put the trimmings from the fillet in an oblong 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 243 
 
 or braizing-pan on the drainer ; lay the fillet on them ; add 
 two onions with two cloves stuck in each, a shred carrot, 
 one head of celery, and a " bouquet garni ; " moisten with 
 half a bottle of sherry and one pint of good stock ; season 
 with a tablespoonful of salt. Cover the pan and set it to 
 simmer very slowly for about two hours, basting the meat 
 frequently with its liquor while simmering. Meanwhile 
 prepare a pint of Indian sauce (No. 185) in a stewpan 
 apart ; have also ready, and cold, half a pound of risotto 
 (No. 108) which place on a slab or board, and make a hole 
 in the centre ; fill this hole with about a quarter of a pound 
 of Italian salpicon (No. 307), to which a pinch of cayenne 
 has been added. Mix these well together with a table- 
 spoon, then form the risotto into croquets, or the shape 
 of corks ; pass them through the yolks of three eggs well 
 beaten, and roll in bread-crumbs ; then fry in the fat in 
 the usual way to a nice colour. 
 
 When the fillet is cooked dress it on a hot dish, garnish 
 with the croquets, strain and skim off the fat from the 
 remainder of the liquor in which the fillet was cooked, pour 
 it over the fillet, and serve with the Indian sauce apart. 
 
 509. FILLET OF BEEF A LA JARDINI:§:RE. 
 
 Prepare and cook a fillet of beef in the same manner 
 as the foregoing. Meanwhile prepare and cook in broth, 
 with a good pinch of salt and a piece of sugar, all the 
 vegetables in season that may be had^ such as carrots and 
 turnips turned in small fancy shapes, French beans cut 
 in diamonds, asparagus-points, buds of cauliflower, small 
 Brussels sprouts, and peas. When the fillet is cooked and 
 well braized dish it up, garnish with the aforesaid hot 
 vegetables all nicely, but separately, intermixed round the 
 meat ; strain the liquor in which the beef was cooked, and 
 
244 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 skim o£E tjie fat ; add a gill of brown sauce to the liquor, 
 stir, and warm up ; then pour it over the fillet and serve. 
 
 510. FILLET OF BEEF WITH OLIVES. 
 
 Cook a fillet of beef in the same way as the fillet of beef, 
 Indian style. Meanwhile bone with a pointed knife a 
 pint of nice French or Italian olives, blanch these for five 
 minutes in plain boiling water, and keep them hot by 
 soaking in a gill of brown sauce or good gravy. When the 
 fillet is cooked and nicely braized dish it up, strain, and 
 skim off the fat from the Kquor ; add this to the olives, stir 
 and mix well on the fire, and when hot pour it round the 
 fillet before serving. 
 
 511. FILLET OF BEEF WITH MASHED POTATOES. 
 
 Procure a nice thick fillet of beef, trim and lard as 
 for " Indian style.'' Put it in a deep earthenware dish, 
 pour over it a gill of salad-oil, lay on the beef the shreds 
 of an onion, with a few sprigs of parsley, a bay-leaf, and 
 two good pinches of pepper; let it steep thus for at 
 least three hours, turning over occasionally, so that the 
 flavour of the different ingredients may be absorbed by the 
 fillet. When properly steeped, shake off all the -particles 
 from the meat, run lengthwise a small iron skewer 
 through it, fold the fillet with a well-oiled sheet of paper 
 tied with string, and fix it to the roasting-spit with strong 
 string. :Put this in front of a moderate fire to roast for 
 about two hours, taking care to baste it often with the oil 
 in which the fillet was steeped. Half an hour before serv- 
 ing^that is to say, an hour and a half after the fillet was 
 first put befoJe the fire — remove the paper, so that the fillet 
 may take a nice brown colour in roasting. Do not forget 
 the basting. 
 
 When the fillet is properly cooked and nicely coloured, 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 245 
 
 make a good layer of mashed potatoes (No. 231) on a hot 
 dish ; place the fillet on it ; pour a little half-glaze or good 
 gravy over, and serve. 
 
 Note. — In roasting larded meat care should be taken 
 that the fire be not too fierce, otherwise the lard will be 
 scorched, and spoil the flavour of the joint. Fillet of beef 
 roasted as above can also be served with a puree of celery 
 (No. 236), pur^e of green peas (No. 232), puree of Jeru- 
 salem artichokes (No. 239), or any other pur6e that may 
 be fancied. 
 
 512. FILLET OF STEAK A LA CHATEAUBRIAND. 
 
 Cut two fillets of beef crosswise, at its thickest part, one 
 and three-quarter inches thick, remove the sinewy part 
 and trim them ; oil them slightly and sprinkle them with 
 salt and pepper; put them on the gridiron to broil for 
 about seven minutes each side. "When cooked dish them 
 up, garnish with potatoes cut filbert-shape and fried in 
 clarified butter. Place on each steak a piece of maitre 
 d'hotel butter (No. 226) as big as a walnut, and serve. 
 
 513. FILLETS OF BEEF MIGNONS WITH CHAM- 
 
 PIGNONS. 
 
 Take three pounds from the middle of a whple fillet of 
 beef ; skin and trim it ; cut this in slices three-quarters 
 of an inch thick, flatten them slightly with the cutlet- 
 bat ; steep for three hours in a marinade composed of half 
 a pint of French white wine, a gill of oil, a bay-leaf, a 
 sliced onion, a few sprigs of parsley, and salt and pepper. 
 Twenty minutes before serving melt two ounces of clarified 
 butter in a saute-pan ; shake off all the particles of marinade 
 from the fillets, and put; them in the saute-pan to cook for 
 about ten minutes, taking care to turn them over and 
 colour on both sides. Meanwhile prepare a Mushroom 
 sauce (No. 197) in' a saucepan apart. When the fillets 
 
246 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 are cooked, drain, and dish them up in a circle, pour the 
 Mushroom sauce in the centre, and serve. 
 
 Note. — MUet of beef cut and cooked in the above style 
 can also be served with Truffle sauce (No. 1 98), Financifere 
 (No. 187), Tomato pur^e (No. 217), or any other Sharp 
 sauce. 
 
 514. SCOLLOPS, FILLET OF BEEF WITH CHESNUT 
 PUR^E, 
 
 Cut three pounds of fillet of beef in scollops, three inches 
 wide and three-quarters of an inch thick, flatten them as in 
 No. 313, and trim them to a nice shape, either round, 
 triangular, or square, but of an equal size; season these 
 with salt and pepper, and cook them in a saute-pan with a 
 quarter of a pound of clarified butter, taking care to brown 
 them on both sides as in the foregoing. Meanwhile prepare 
 a pur6e of chesnuts (No. 237). "When the scollops of beef 
 are properly cooked dish them up in a circle, after having 
 glazed them, fill the centre with the pur^e, strain some 
 good beef gravy over, and serve. 
 
 Note. — Any purte of vegetables can be served with 
 scollops cooked in the above fashion, 
 
 515. RUMP-STEAK A LA CHASSEUR. 
 
 Procure a slice of rump-steak weighing about three 
 pounds, and cut one inch and a quarter thick. Place the 
 steak flat on the table, lay your left hand slightly over it, 
 whilst with the right you - insert a sharp-pointed knife in 
 the centre of the outside fat, as if to slice the steak in two ; 
 but the insertion must only be made within an inch all 
 round from the three outside parts of the steak, so as to 
 form it into the shape of a pocket. Steep the steak, thus 
 trimmed, for two hours in a similar marinade to the 
 foregoing. Meanwhile prepare a salpicon h, la chasseur 
 (No. 3 1 2), to which add about six ounces of sausage meat 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 247 
 
 and a couple of truffles cut in small dice, making in all 
 about a pound of salpicon ; wipe the steak, put the mixture 
 in the pocket with a spoon, sew the open part with a fine 
 string ; flatten it gently with the hands, and place it on 
 the gridiron on a good fire for about Bight minutes on each 
 side. When cooked remove the string without tearing the 
 meat, dish it up and serve, with a little Espagnole or half- 
 glaze sauce apart. 
 
 Note. — Steaks cut as above can be filled and ciDoked 
 with other salpicons or oysters, simply blanched in boiling 
 water for two minutes, drained, and freed from any particle 
 of shell. 
 
 This mode of cooking steaks has been appropriated lately 
 by several cooks and amateurs, as of their own invention. 
 I may, however, say that it was introduced by me at the 
 St. James's Hall Restaurant either in i§7S or 1876. 
 
 516. RUMP-STKAK. OYSTER SAUCE. 
 
 Take a rump-steak weighing about two pounds and cut 
 one inch thick j pour a tablespoonful of oil on a plate ; 
 pass both sides of the steak over the oilj and broil it over 
 a moderate fire for about seven minutes each side. When 
 cooked sprinkle both sides with salt, dress it on a dish, 
 and serve with some Oyster sauce (No. 186) in a sauce- 
 boat apart. 
 
 Note. — Eump-steak broiled as above can also be served 
 plain, or with Sharp, Italian, or Tomato sauce, as well as 
 with grilled or stewed mushrooms. 
 
 517. RUMP-STEAK. ANCHOVY BUTTER. 
 
 Prepare and cook a rump-steak as in the foregoing. 
 Meanwhile make some anchovy butter (No. 161), lay it 
 on a hot dish ; put the steak on the butter, and serve with 
 either chipped or fried potatoes. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 REMARKS ON VEAL. 
 
 Veal is one of the most nutritious, palatable, and whole- 
 some meats that can be cooked, besides playing a great 
 part in the different culinary preparations of soups, sauces, 
 and jellies ; but veal, like lamb, should never be eaten when 
 over' two months old, . for the flesh gets coarse and Joses 
 flavour and delicacy, as well as whiteness. The veal from 
 Pontoise (France) possesses a world-wide repute for its 
 quality, savour, and whiteness of flesh j but calves are never 
 killed over eight weeks old in that country. 
 
 518. VEAL, HOUSEWIFE STYLE. 
 
 Procure a loin. Bone it ; cut out the kidney ; trim off 
 some of the encircling fat and put the kidney back in its 
 place ; flatten the flap and fold it under so as to cover the 
 kidney, and fillet and tie the piece of meat with string 
 in order to keep it in shape. Or take a round cut from 
 off a leg of veal, weighing five or six pounds ; bone it, and 
 fasten it round with string. Put either in a well-buttered 
 braizing-pan over the fire to brown ; when of a nice golden 
 colour all round moisten with a quart of broth, add three 
 whole carrots, two onions with two cloves stuck in each, 
 a "bouquet garni," salt and pepper to taste, and set to 
 simmer very gently for about two hours and a half, with 
 the pan partly covered, not forgetting to baste often and 
 
 turn the meat during that time. Then cover the pan; put 
 
 248 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 2^9 
 
 a good shovel of live-coal and embers on the lid, and let 
 it simmer for half an hour, taking care meanwhile to baste 
 the meat at least five times with its own gravy. When 
 the meat is cooked, which can be ascertained by pricking 
 it with a trussing-needle, drain it, and keep hot on a 
 dish ; remove the carrots carefully by themselves — and keep 
 them hot too — strain the gravy through a pointed strainer, 
 skim off the fat, and reduce the gravy by quick boiling to 
 a half-glaze ; add a little caramel if not sufficiently coloured. 
 In the meantime cut the braized carrots into shape, dish 
 them up with the beef together with a dozen small onions, 
 previously glazed for that purpose ; sprinkle over the re- 
 duced gravy, and serve. 
 
 Nvte. — This mode of preparing veal is also served cold. 
 In that case cook it the day before, and put in a basin 
 with the strained gravy, which will set to a firm jelly ; and 
 it will only have to be turned out of the basin on to a dish 
 to serve. 
 
 519. BRAIZED VEAL, ITALIAN STYLE. 
 
 Take a round cut of the leg or a shoulder of veal, weigh- 
 ing about six pounds, bone it with a sharp-pointed knife, 
 and lard it in the usual way with well-seasoned strips of 
 bacon, and fasten it round with string. Lay flat in a well- 
 buttered stewpan half a dozen thin slices of fat bacon with 
 an ounce of butter. Cut in quarters an onion, a carrot, 
 and one head of celery ; spread these on the slices of bacon ; 
 add a bay-leaf and a few sprigs of thyme, place on these 
 the piece of larded veal seasoned with salt and pepper, 
 and set it on the fire to brown all round. After having 
 properly turned the meat and secured a nice even colour- 
 ing, add a pint and a half of stock with half a pint of 
 French white wine, then simmer it very gently, with the 
 lid partly on, for about three hours, taking care, as is usual 
 
250 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 in all braizing, to carefully baste the meat, so as to glaze 
 it well. When the meat is propeily cooked, drain and 
 put it on a dish to keep hot, strain the gravy in the usual 
 way, and put it in a small saucepan to be reduced to a half- 
 glaze, after having skimmed off the fat. Meanwhile pre- 
 pare a dish either of macaroni, spaghetti, or ravioli, Italian 
 style, garnish the veal with it, pour the reduced gravy over, 
 and serve. 
 
 _ 520. STEWED VEAL, COUNTRY STYLE. 
 
 In order to study economy, this stew should be made 
 with the neck, breast, and trimmings of veal cutlets, the 
 two former cut two inches wide by three long. 
 
 Melt two ounces of butter in a stewpan over the fire; 
 put the pieces of veal in with two bay-leaves and a few 
 sprigs of thyme ; brown the veal nicely by stirring almost 
 constantly ; then sprinkle two or three tablespoonfuls of 
 flour over the meat ; continue stirring for three or four 
 minutes longer, or till the flour is well browned ; moisten 
 with half a pint of stock and a gill of white wine ; season 
 with salt' and pepper ; simmer by the side of the fire for 
 about an hour with the lid on, stirring the meat five or six 
 times ; after which, add one pint of stock with three fresh 
 tomatoes, skinned and cut in four. Boil fast on a brisk 
 fire for fifteen minutes ; take the bay-leaves and thyme out ; 
 add some potatoes and peas, cooked separately in broth, as 
 well as a quarter of a pound of fresh mushrooms, properly 
 trimmed, cleaned, and blanched, also in bi'oth. Mix these 
 well -together on the stove till it boils, then dress it up in a 
 large dish, and serve. 
 
 521. STEWED VEAL, COUNTRY STYLE (ANOTHER). 
 Prepare and stew the veal trimmings as indicated in. the 
 foregoing, but half an hour before the completion of stew- 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 251 
 
 ing add to it two shred onions, half a pound of fresh 
 mushrooms, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and the 
 juice of a lemon. Stir well, simmer for half an hour ; add 
 the quantity of broth required ; boil sharp for fifteen 
 minutes ; remove the aromatic herbs, and serve separately 
 with a pur6e of potatoes. 
 
 522. STEWED VEAL WITH RICE. 
 
 Proceed for this stew as in the former, and when the 
 meat is well glazed and cooked, add a quarter of a pound 
 of fresh mushrooms and simmer for five or six minutes 
 longer. Have a risotto (No. 109) ready j dish it up; 
 dress also the stewed veal in another dish, and serve. 
 
 523. SCOLLOPS OF VEAL FRIED. 
 
 Cut about two pounds of -cushion* of veal into scollops 
 or slices two inches wide by three long and half an inch 
 thick, flatten these slightly with the cutlet-bat dipped in 
 water, and roll each separately in flour. Melt four ounces 
 of butter in a saut^-pan, fry the scollops in it over a brisk 
 file, taking care to give them a nice golden colour on both- 
 sides. When this has been obtained, sprinkle a little flour 
 on each slice. Moisten with half a pint of good broth, let 
 it boil for ten minutes, then add a gill of half-glaze or 
 good gravy, one teaspoonful of fine herbs (No. 195), a 
 quarter of a pound of cooked fresh mushrooms, and salt 
 to taste. Toss the saut6-pan over the fire in order to 
 warm up the contents and mix them well; dress the 
 scollops in the form of a circle; add about an ounce of 
 butter to the sauce ; squeeze the juice of a lemon, and stir 
 by the side of the fire. Meanwhile garnish the centre of 
 
 * Cushion of veal is a cut from the most fleshy part of the leg of veal, 
 and very often called "fillet." 
 
252 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 the dish with any puree or garnish of vegetables that may 
 be preferred, or any paste, or rice. Pour the sauce over 
 the scollops, and serve. 
 
 524. BLANQUETTE OF VEAL. 
 
 The breast is generally the part of veal used for blan- 
 quette. Cut three pounds of breast of veal into pieces 
 between two and three inches square ; put these in a stew- 
 pan with enough water to cover the meat well ; add two- 
 thirds of a tablespoonf ul of salt and half a teaspoonf ul of 
 pepper. Boil and skim in the usual way ; after whichj add 
 two onions with two cloves stuck in each, and a double 
 "bouquet garni;" simmer gently for an hour, then drain 
 in a colander, but save the broth ; return the pieces of 
 veal in the stewpan and keep hot by the side of the fire. 
 In the meantime mix in another stewpan one ounce of 
 butter, with the same quantity of flour, by stirring over the 
 fire for four or five minutes, then draw it by the side of 
 the stove. Moisten with all the liquor drained from the 
 veal, reduce this for twenty minutes, stirring all the time 
 to prevent burning ; after which, thicken with the yolks of 
 three eggs, strain the sauce through a pointed strainer 
 into the stewpan containing the veal, to which half a pint 
 of tinned, blanched, and sliced button champignons have 
 already been added. Boil it for one minute, sprinkle in 
 half a tablespoonful of chopped parsley; mix well; dish 
 the blanquette, and serve. 
 
 525. CUSHION OF VEAL WITH SPINACH (FRENCH 
 FRICANDEAD). 
 
 Trim a cushion of veal weighing about three pounds to 
 a nice oval form and smooth surface ; lard this side rather 
 closely with thin strips of fat bacon. Strew the bottom 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 253 
 
 of a braizing-pan witli the trimmings of the veal, a small 
 sliced carrot and onion, a small " bouquet garni," salt and 
 pepper to taste, and then place the cushion on the top. 
 Moisten with about a pint of broth ; place a buttered sheet 
 of paper over the larded part of the meat ; then set it to 
 simmer very slowly for one or two hours, with the lid on, 
 and frequently baste it with its own liquor. When nearly 
 done the lid and paper must be removed, so as to enable 
 the larding to dry, although it should still be frequently 
 basted with its own glaze, in order to give it a shiny 
 appearance ; care, however, must be taken to prevent the 
 meat from acquiring too much colour during the process. 
 Meanwhile dress a pur^e of spinach (No. 236) in the centre 
 of a hot dish, and with a flat strainer take the piece of veal 
 out of the pan and lay it carefully on the spinach ; strain 
 the half-glaze through a pointed strainer ; skim off the fat, 
 pour it over the meat, and serve. 
 
 Note. — Cushion of veal braized thus can be served with 
 either jardiniere, macddoine, stewed peas, a la Toulouse, 
 stuffed tomatoes, white haricot beans, glazed onions, new 
 carrots, or any puree of vegetables, and also with stewed 
 mushrooms. 
 
 526. SCOLLOPS OF VEAL WITH STEWED MUSHROOMS. 
 Cut a cushion of veal into scollop.s as for scollops fried ; 
 put them in a saut6-pan with sufficient broth to cover them 
 entirely ; season with salt and pepper, and simmer them 
 gently till the scollops are done, which will be in about an 
 hour. Meanwhile brown in a stewpan three spoonfuls of 
 flour with an ounce of butter, by stirring for four or five 
 minutes ; then moisten with half a pint of broth and a gill 
 of sherry; stir and dilute this well; season with a little 
 salt and pepper ; then add to the sauce one pound of well- 
 cleaned fresh mushrooms ; simmer for six or eight minutes, 
 
2 54 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 and then draw by the side of the fire. When the soollopg 
 are cooked dish them up in the form of a circle and keep 
 hot ; skim off the fat from the liquor in which the scollops 
 were cooked ; reduce it a little over a brisk fire, then add 
 the mushrooms, with a teaspoonf ul of finely chopped parsley 
 and the juice of half a, lemon ; stir on the fire till it boils ; 
 pour it in the centre of the dish with the scollops, and 
 serve. 
 
 Note. — Scollops cooked as above may be dressed with any 
 pur^e or garnish of vegetables, as well as with macaroni, 
 tagliatelli, spaghetti, or ravioli. 
 
 527. VEAL CUTLETS WITH SORREL PUR^E. 
 
 Saw off the chine-bone and upper end ribs of the half of 
 the best-end neck of veal, leaving the cutlet bones about 
 four inches long ; divide these into cutlets of an even thick- 
 ness ; trim them nicely without showing the bone ; lard 
 the fillet of each cutlet with thin strips of fat bacon, put 
 them in a saut^-pan with three ounces of clarified butter 
 and fry them for four minutes only ; then add a pint of 
 veal broth, half a pint of French white wine, a small shred 
 carrot and onion, and salt and pepper to taste; simmer 
 very gently till the cutlets are well glazed, and meanwhile 
 prepare a pur^e of sorrel (No. 238). When the cutlets are 
 done dress them up on a dish in the form of a circle, fill 
 the centre with the sorrel, skim off the fat, strain the gravy 
 over the cutlets, and serve. 
 
 528. VEAL CUTLETS WITH HAM. 
 
 Cut and trim six veal cutlets as described in the previous 
 number ; put them in a sautd-pan with two or three ounces 
 of clarified butter to colour them; alter which, pour off the 
 butter, and add one pint of veal stock with half a pint of 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 255 
 
 Espagnole sauce, and simmer till the cutlets are done. 
 Meanwhile cut six lean slices of ham, a quarter of an inch 
 thick and trim them to the shape of the cutlets; fry 
 for' five minutes in the clarified butter which was saved 
 from the cutlet-pan. When the cutlets are done drain 
 and dish up in a circle with a slice of ham between each. 
 Skim the fat off the gravy, strain it through a small taamy 
 over the cutlets, and serve. 
 
 529. VEAL CUTLETS MILANAISE. 
 
 Cut and pare away six veal cutlets as in No. 528, flatten 
 slightly with the cutlet-bat dipped in water, and pass 
 them through the yolks of three eggs well beaten and 
 seasoned with salt ; then put them into bread-crumbs and 
 fry in a saut6-pan with four ounces of clarified butler to 
 a nice golden colour on both sides. Meanwhile prepare 
 some macaroni Milanaise (No. 94). When the cutlets are 
 ready lay the half of the macaroni over the dish, dress the 
 cutlets on it in the usual form, pour the remainder of the 
 macaroni in the centre, sprinkle over the cutlets the butter 
 left in the pan, and serve. 
 
 530. VEAL CUTLETS A L'lTALIENNE. 
 
 Prepare half a dozen veal cutlets as in the previous 
 number, flatten gently with the cutlet-bat dipped in 
 water, and with a sharp knife slice the fillets in two, 
 without separating them at the bone. Spread on each 
 a tablespoonful of salpicon h, la financi^re (No. 310), to 
 which two tablespoonfuls of D'TJxelles has previously 
 been added, and well mixed with the salpicon ; turn the 
 slices down and flatten gently with the hands, so as to 
 give the cutlets their natural shape; after which, rub 
 them through breadings and ra.'spings, and fry to a nice 
 
2s6 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 golden colour with four ounces of clarified butter. When 
 cooked dress them carefully over a hot dish, and serve with 
 a sauce-boat of Italian sauce (No. 204) or any other sauce 
 that may be, preferred. 
 
 531. VEAL CUTLETS EN PAPILLOTES, 
 
 Cut, trim, and flatten the veal cutlets as in cutlets 
 Milanaise, put these in a saut^-pan with two ounces of 
 butter, and fry to a nice even colour for about six minutes 
 on each side ; when done, drain, and put by on a plate. 
 Sprinkle an ounce of flour in the saute-pan ; stir it over 
 the fire for three minutiss ; add one pint -of broth, stir 
 and boil for five minutes, and strain through a pointed 
 gravy-strainer. Clean the saute-pan, put the sauce back 
 and boil to reduce it to half the quantity, add three 
 tablespoonfuls of D'tJxelles (No. 195), and reduce five 
 minutes longer ; then cut for each cutlet a sheet of stiff 
 white paper in the shape of a heart and large enough to 
 leave a good margin round the cutlet, oil the sheets of 
 paper, and lay on each side a slice of fat bacon, cut in the 
 shape of the lean part of the cutlet ; spread on the bacon 
 a tablespoonful of the sauce, then the cutlet, then another 
 spoonful of the sauce, and lastly a slice of bacon similar 
 to the first ; fold the paper over and twist the edges tightly 
 under into very close folds. About fifteen minutes before 
 serving, put the folded cutlets on a girdiron to broil on a 
 moderate fire for six or seven minutes on each side. 
 
 532. VEAL CUTLETS BROILED PLAIN. 
 
 Cut and trim the cutlets as in the foregoing ; sprinkle 
 some pepper on both sides, pour one tablespoonful of oil 
 on a plate, pass the cutlets lightly over it, and broil them 
 for ten minutes on a moderate fire. Wh^n done sprinkle 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 257 
 
 a pinch of salt on each side, dish up the cutlets, and serve 
 with any vegetables that may be preferred. 
 
 533. VEAL CUTLETS. TOMATO SAUCE. 
 
 Cut and pare the cutlets ; dip in melted butter ; pass 
 them through bread-crumbs ; broil on a moderate fire for 
 about twelve minutes, and serve with some Tomatp sauce 
 (No. 217) apart. 
 
 Note. — Veal cutlets, plain or bread-crumbed, and broiled 
 as above, can be served with any Sharp sauce or maltre 
 d'hotel butter, allowing generally three-parts of a gill of 
 sauce and an ounce of maitre d'h6tel butter to each person. 
 
 534. ROAST VEAL. 
 
 The chump-end of the loin, the neck, and the loin of veal 
 are generally the pieces used for roasting. Take about 
 four pounds of the neck, saw off the chine-bone, chop 
 between each bone, and shorten the rib-bones, roll the flap 
 underneath and tie round with string; roast this before 
 the fire, which must be moderate, for about an hour and 
 three-quarters, basting the meat with its own gravy in the 
 usual way, and five minutes before removing the joint from 
 the fire sprinkle it well with salt. Strain, and skim the 
 fat off the gravy, pour it over the meat and serve. 
 
 For roast loin of veal, take about five pounds of the part 
 including the kidney, saw off the chine-bone, roll the flap 
 underneath so as to enclose the kidney, and fasten it with 
 string. Put it on a spit to roast for at least two hours 
 before a moderate fire, basting about every fifteen minutes ; 
 sprinkle some salt five minutes before taking the joint 
 away from the fire ; strain, and skim off the fat from the 
 gravy ; dish up the meat, pour the gravy over it, and serve 
 with water-cress sprinkled with salt, pepper, and vinegar. 
 
 E 
 
2S8 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 For roast chump of loin, bone entirely, tie with string 
 to keep it in shape, and proceed in the same manner as 
 previous number. 
 
 535. ROAST BREAST OF VEAL WITH STUFFING. 
 Bone completely the breast of veal ; mix one pound of 
 well-seasoned veal stuffing (Nos. 270 or 270a) and a table- 
 spoonful of finely chopped sage ; place this along in the 
 -centre of the meat, roll up tightly, fasten round with 
 string, tie a well-buttered sheet of paper round, and roast 
 before a moderate fire for about an hour and three-quarters, 
 taking care to baste as often as possible. Twenty minutes 
 before taking away from the fire remove the paper, and 
 when done untie the string.- Dish it up and serve with 
 some good gravy, properly strained and skimmed. 
 
 536. ROAST OR BAKED BREAST OF VEAL, CITIZEN 
 STYLE. 
 
 Bone, trim, and roll a breast of veal (without stufling) 
 as in No. 535, tie round, and put in a stewpan with 
 three ounces of butter, to fry till it is well coloured all 
 over ; then add a " bouquet garni " and a quart of stock ; 
 put in the oven to bake gently. Half an hour after- 
 wards add two dozen new carrots nicely turned, and in 
 - another half hour the same number of button onions, a 
 tablespoonful of sugar, and the same quantity of salt. 
 Baste the meat frequently. When done take it up, un- 
 fold the string, and put the veal on a baking-sheet in 
 the oven again for a few minutes to glaze. Meanwhile 
 continue the glazing of the carrots and onions on the fire. 
 Dish up the meat, garnish round with the glazed vegetables, 
 remove the "bouquet garni," skim off the fat from the 
 surface of the liquor, reduce to the consistency of a half- 
 glaze, pour it over the veal and vegetables, and serve. 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 REMARKS ON MUTTON, LAMB, AND GOAT. 
 
 The flesh of mutton and lamb is of great benefit as a 
 supply of food- to mankind, in every part of the world 
 the meat of the former being used on a larger scale than 
 any other kind by all classes. It can be served to great 
 advantage roasted, boiled, or made into numerous dishes 
 very similar to those made of veal. 
 
 The flesh of lamb, when not too old and of good quaUty, 
 is perfectly white. For taste, delicacy, and tenderness it 
 is superior to all other butcher's meat ; but it should not 
 be more than two months old, as its flesh then begins 
 to get coarse and loses much of its delicate flavour and 
 whiteness. 
 
 The meat of the goat is coarse and tough, and possesses 
 rather a strong flavour ; while that of the kid five or six 
 weeks old is delicious when properly cooked. 
 
 537. MUTTON CUTLETS A LITALIENNE. 
 Select a neck of mutton that has been killed at least 
 four days,_and cut off the neck or scrag-end with the 
 chopper; or simply procure the best-end of -a neck of 
 mutton from the butcher, saw off the breast-part so as 
 to leave the cutlet-bones between three and a half and 
 four inches long; saw off also the chine or spine bone, 
 and then with a sharp knife cut in as many cutlets as 
 there are bones from the neck of mutton thus prepared. 
 
"260 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 Trim the cutlets by removing all the sinewy part and 
 superfluous fat without damaging the fillet, and detach 
 the meat about an inch from the end of each bone. 
 Marinade the cutlets for a couple of hours, wipe and 
 pass them over the yolks of three eggs well beaten, and 
 bread them. Ten minutes before serving, fry them in a 
 saute-pan with clarified butter, taking care to give them 
 a nice golden colour on both sides ; after which, dish them 
 up in a circle and serve with Sharp sauce (No. 205) 
 apart. 
 
 Note.^C\it\et& cooked in the above style are also served 
 with a garnish in the centre, composed either of French 
 beans (No. 290), asparagus-points (No. 287), stewed peas 
 (No. 286), cucumber (No. 285), mac^doine (No. 281), 
 pur^e of chesnuts (No. 237), or any vegetable pur6e that 
 may be fancied, as well as mushrooms or truffles. 
 
 Lamb cutlets are also cooked and served in the same 
 manner. 
 
 538. MUTTON CUTLETS MILANAISE. 
 Prepare the cutlets and trim, bread-crumb, and cook 
 in the same style as the foregoing. When cooked dish up 
 in a circle, fill the centre with macaroni cheese (No. 88), 
 to which two tablespoon fuls of Bechamel sauce should 
 have been added and well mixed before serving. 
 
 539. MUTTON CUTLETS A LA SOUBISE. 
 
 Mutton outlets for this style should be cut thick; and 
 the proper way is to cut two bones for each cutlet and 
 remove one rib-bone from it; after which, trim and pare 
 carefully; then lard through the lean part of each cutlet 
 with eight narrow strips one inch and a quarter long of 
 bacon aiid tongue, well seasoned. Put the cutlets in a 
 large stewpan with a sliced carrot, an onion stuck with 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 261 
 
 two cloves, a " bouquet garni," a bay-leaf, six pepper-corns, 
 and a blade of mace ; moisten with sufficient good broth 
 to cover it ; put the lid on the pan, and set the cutlets to 
 braize on a slow fire for about an hour and a quarter. 
 When the cutlets are done, drain, and place them on a 
 large dish to get cold; lay another dish over the cutlets 
 to slightly press and give them an even surface. Mean- 
 while skim the fat off the gravy in which the cutlets were 
 cooked, pass it through a tammy, and reduce it to a half^ 
 glaze by boiling. Twenty minutes before serving return 
 the cutlets into the reduced liquor, warm them up very 
 , gently so as to give them time to glaze nicely by rolling 
 the pan carefully. When the cutlets are properly warmed 
 and glazed, dish them up in the usual way, fill in the 
 centre with a pur6e a la Soubise (No. 229), pour the re- 
 mainder of the liquor over the cutlets, and serve. 
 
 Note. — Braized cutlets as above can be served with any 
 garnish or pur6e of vegetables, for making which see those 
 articles. 
 
 540. MUTTON CUTLETS A LA POMPADOUR. 
 
 Prepare, lard, and cook the number of cutlets required 
 as in the foregoing, and let them get cold in their liquor. 
 Make a pur^e of fresh mushrooms (No. 301), to which add 
 two or three tablespoonfuls of the liquor in which the 
 cutlets were braized, and dilute the pur^e with it. When 
 the cutlets are quite cold, take them out and place on a 
 dish, after being drained; lay flat on each a teaspoonful 
 of the pur^e (keeping the remainder hot in a bain-marie). 
 Let this set firm on the cutlets, and about twenty minutes 
 before serving pass them twice through the yolks of eggs, 
 properly beaten for that purpose, and fine bread-crumbs ; 
 that is to say, to rub lightly the eggs and bread-crumbs 
 over the cutlets first, and to repeat the same thing over 
 
262 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 again; after which, put them in a saut(i-pan with enough 
 melted clarified butter to fry over a good brisk fire, 
 taking care to give each a nice colour. When cooked 
 dress them in the usual formj place the remainder of the 
 mushroom puree in the centre; sprinkle the cutlets with 
 a" little of their liquor, skimmed and reduced for the 
 purpose, as in No. 539, and serve with Tomato sauce 
 apart. 
 
 541. MUTTON CUTLETS A LA JARDINIERE. 
 
 Out, trim, and braize the cutlets as in the foregoing, 
 but without larding them. Meanwhile prepare a jardiniere 
 of vegetables as for fillet of beef jardinifere (No. 509). Mix 
 all, the vegetables together in a stewpan with a few table- 
 spoonfuls of Bechamel sauce. When the cutlets are cooked 
 dish them in a circle, pour the hot jardinifere in it, sprinkle 
 a little half^glaze over the cutlets, and serve. 
 
 542, MUTTON CUTLETS A LA MAINTENON. 
 
 Cut and trim the mutton cutlets as -for jardini&re; 
 slightly flatten them with the bat, and with a sharp 
 knife slice the fillets in two without separating them at 
 the bone; spread inside a teaspoonful of D'TJxelles (No. 
 195), refold the cutlets in their natural form, broU them 
 thus four or five minutes on each side; put a thin layer 
 of D'TJxelles on a dish ; lay the cutlets on it when cooked. 
 Pour over some D'TJxeUes sauce (No. 195), place the dish in 
 a hot oven for five minutes, and serve. 
 
 543. MUTTON CUTLETS, MAItBE DH6tEL. 
 
 Out and trim the cutlets as for cutlets k I'ltalienne; 
 flatten them gently with the bat, oil and sprinkle with 
 a little pepper, and broil over a brisk fire about- four 
 minutes on each side. When done to a nicety dish up, 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 263 
 
 and put some maitre d'h6tel butter between and on each 
 cutlet, serve with either fried or chipped potatoes. 
 
 544. MUTTON CUTLETS BBEAD-CRUMBED. 
 
 Prepare the cutlets as for maitre d'h6tel. Melt about 
 one ounce of butter in a frying-pan, dip each cutlet in it, 
 and pass them through the bread-crumbs. After which, 
 broil on a grill, in the same way as before ; dish up, and 
 serve with Tomato sauce apart. 
 
 Note. — Cutlets either of mutton or lamb, grilled as above, 
 can be served with any garnish or purde of vegetables, as 
 well as with stewed or grilled mushroom?. 
 
 545. LAMB-CHOPS. 
 
 Lamb as well as m.utton chops are plainly grilled, and 
 served with grilled tomatoes or mushrooms. 
 
 546, BREAST OF MUTTON BROILED. 
 
 The breast or upper ribs sawn off the neck of mutton 
 when cut in cutlets can either be boiled, broiled, or used 
 in stews. 
 
 Put the mutton in a saucepan with enough water to cover 
 it ; add any trimmings and bones that may be handy, 
 together with a small carrot cut lengthwise in four, an 
 onion with two cloves stuck in it, a "bouquet garni," and 
 season with salt and pepper. Boil and skim in the usual 
 way, and simmer till the bones can easily be taken out; 
 drain the meat on a dish ; pull out all the bones ; sprinkle 
 the meat with salt; press it under another dish with a 
 weight at the top, and let it get cold. The broth in which 
 the mutton was boiled must be strained and the fat skimmed 
 off, when it can be used as a soup, by adding to it either 
 boiled pearl barley or rice and a little. chopped parsley. 
 
264 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 When the meat is cold cut it in six equal parts. Melt 
 an ounce of butter in a sautd-pan ;" dip the pieces of mutton 
 in it ;. strew them with bread-crumbs and broil on a gridiron 
 to a nice brown colour on both sides, and serve with either 
 Tomato or Sharp sauce apart, and garnish with any purde 
 of vegetables. 
 
 Wote.—^'Lsimh is also cooked and served in this way. 
 
 547. BREAST OF MUTTON, HOUSEWIFE STYLE. 
 
 Cut into as many pieces as there are bones the breast 
 of mutton, cut off from the neck ; put these in a saut^- 
 pan and fry to a nice brown ; then drain off the fat, and 
 sprinkle over them three tablespoonfuls of flour. Moisten 
 with half a pint of broth, add a " bouquet garni," a bay- 
 leaf, and two small oniotis stuck with two cloves ; season 
 with salt and pepper, and let simmer gently for three- 
 quarters of an hour, taking care to often stir the contents 
 with a wooden spoon. Meanwhile cut in small quarters 
 four turnips ; blanch in the usual way and brown in butter 
 till cooked j skim off the fat from the mutton, remove the 
 " bouquet-garni," bay -leaf, and onions, add the turnips, con- 
 tinue simmering for a few minutes longer, and serve. 
 
 Note. — The neck-end and breast of lamb is also prepared 
 and served in the same style. 
 
 548. MINCED MUTTON. 
 This mince is generally made with the remnants of cold 
 mutton. Cut off all fat, skin, and gristle from the meat ; 
 mince it fine, and warm it well together With some 
 Italian sauce, without, however, letting it boil; after 
 which, dress it on a dish with poached eggs and large 
 croutons as a garnish. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 265 
 
 549. HARICOT MUTTON. 
 
 Out the end part of the neck as well as the breast of 
 mutton between each bonej pare away all superfluous fat, 
 put the pieces of mutton into a stewpan ; fry them over 
 a brisk fire to a nice brown ; then pour o£E the grease, 
 sprinkle three spoonfuls of flour over the mutton, and stir 
 the contents for about five minutes' over the fire ; then 
 moisten it with one quart of broth, and continue stirring 
 almost constantly till it boils. Prepare about half a pound 
 each of carrots and turnips cut in fancy shapes, such as 
 half-moons, small pears, and big olives; add them to the 
 mutton, as well as a dozen small onions, a " bouquet garni," 
 two bay-leaves, and two pinches of mignonette pepper. 
 Let the haricot mutton simmer gently by the side of the 
 fire, with the lid on the pan, for about an hour and a half, 
 taking care to frequently stir it ; then carefully skim off 
 the fat and grease ; remove the " bouquet garni " and 
 leaves ; dish it up with the vegetables ;- reduce the sauce 
 (if necessary) by sharp boiling, pour it over the mutton, 
 and serve. 
 
 Note. — The above may be varied by substituting new 
 potatoes, young carrots, turnips, and green peas for the 
 aforesaid vegetables. 
 
 550, BRAIZED LEG OF MUTTON A LA BRETONNE. 
 
 Take a nice fat leg of mutton weighing about eight 
 pounds, saw o£f the shank-bone, and lard it with a dozen strips 
 of fat bacon, cut a quarter of an inch square by six inches 
 long. Place the leg in a, braizing-pan with two onions 
 each stuck with two cloves, a head of celery split in half, 
 two shred carrots, a spoonful of chopped parsley, a bay- 
 leaf, and season with salt, pepper, a little nutmeg, and 
 two blades of mace. Moisten with a quart of good stock, 
 
266 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 cover the meat witli a buttered- paper, and put the lid on 
 the pan ; lay on it some embers ; set the pan on the fire to 
 simmer very gently for about four hours, taking care to 
 frequently baste the mutton with its liquor and feed the 
 lid with live embers. Meanwhile cook a pint of white 
 haricot beans (No. 294), strain, and put in a stewpan 
 in which the following sauce has already been prepared : 
 ■ — Shred fine two onions ; fry them of a light colour 
 in a saut^-pan with a little butter ; add a pint of brown 
 sauce ; season with salt and pepper ; let it boil gently for 
 fifteen minutes, then rub it through a sieve, as a pur6e. 
 Having thus put the beans with the sauce, let the whole 
 simmer about five minutes. When the mutton is properly 
 braized take it from the braizing-pan and keep it hot ; 
 strain the liquor into a small saucepan ; skim off all the fat 
 and reduce it to a half-glaze; lay the haricot beans on a 
 hot dish ; dress the leg of mutton on it j pour over the 
 meat the half -glaze, and serve. 
 
 Wote. — To simplify the cooking, legs of mutton may be 
 braized without larding, and garnished with plain boiled 
 haricot beans, moistened with gravy instead of sauce. 
 
 Braized legs of mutton as above can be served a la 
 Jardinifere, k la Soubise, and k la Mac6doine ; for which see 
 the respective garnishes. 
 
 Loins and saddles of mutton may also be braized and 
 served in the same style as legs of mutton. 
 
 551, BOILED LEG OF MUTTON. 
 
 Choose a nice leg of mutton ; put it in a stock-pot with 
 a spoonful of salt and plenty of cold water ; boil it j remove 
 the scum by skimming in the same way as broth ; then add 
 a couple of carrots sliced in four, and six or eight turnips ; 
 let it simmer gently by the side of the stove for not less 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 267 
 
 than two hours, and if the leg is a big one, three hours. 
 When the mutton is done take it out of the broth and 
 keep it hot ; strain the broth into an earthenware pan, that 
 it may be used again for boiling mutton and served as a 
 mutton broth. Keep the carrots hot; mash the turnips 
 with an ounce of butter, and season with salt and pepper ; 
 dish up the leg of mutton, garnish it with tablespoonfuls 
 of puree laid egg-shape round it, intermixed with carrots 
 nicely shaped; pour a little gravy over the mutton, and 
 serve with Caper sauce (No. 193) in a sauce-boat apart. 
 
 552. ROAST LEG OF MUTTON. 
 
 -Legs and saddles of mutton, to eat tender, should be hung 
 in cool and draughty places at least four or five days in 
 summer, and ten or twelve days in winter, before being 
 cooked. Saw off the shank-bone a little below the knuckle, 
 fix the meat on the spit to roast before a good fire for an 
 hour and three-quarters ; pour half a pint of broth in the 
 dripping-pan, and baste in the same way as for roast beef. 
 Five minutes before taking the meat off the spit sprinkle 
 it with salt and pepper. When done dish it up ; skim the 
 fat from the gravy in the dripping-pan, and strain it through 
 a pointed strainer over the meat, and serve. 
 
 Note. — ^Two or three cloves of garlic stuck in the leg of 
 mutton a day or two previous to cooking it, is according to 
 taste, a great improvement. 
 
 Shoulders, saddles, and loins of mutton, when not cut in 
 chops and grilled, should also be roasted as above. 
 
 553. EPIGRAMMES OF LAMB WITH GREEN PEAS. 
 
 Saw off the breast of a neck of lamb in the same manner 
 as for mutton cutlets ; remove the tendon of the breast 
 and boil in some stock with an onion and a small 
 
268 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 "bouquet garni." When the lamb is done drain it, and 
 take out all the bones ; keep these, as they will be required 
 later on. Sprinkle some salt and a little, pepper over the 
 meat ; lay it flat on a dish ; press, with another dish and a 
 weight at the top of it, till cold. Then cut the breast of 
 lamb in pieces the size and shape of cutlets, pass these 
 through some melted butter and bread-crumb?, and through 
 two or three beaten eggs and bread-crumbs again. Cut the 
 bones kept for that purpose with a large knife or chopper 
 to a point at one end, stick one in each cutlet, and fry them 
 in hot fat to a nice golden' colour. Meanwhile have ready 
 a pint of green peas, plainly boiled in salt water, drained, 
 and mixed with a gill of Bechamel sauce in a stewpan, and 
 as soon as the epigrammes are properly fried, dish them up 
 in a circle, pour the peas in the centre, and serve. 
 
 Note. — Epigrammes of lamb prepared and cooked as 
 above can be served with asparagus-points, mao6doine, 
 cucumbers, French beans, or any pur^e of vegetables. 
 
 554 EPIGRAMMES OF LAMB, ITALIAN STYLE. 
 Prepare and cook the epigrammes as in the foregoing. 
 Meanwhile cook a pound of macaroni (No. 89), Italian 
 style ; lay the half of it on a dish ; dress the epigrammes 
 on it in the form of a circle ; fill up the centre with the 
 remainder of the macaroni, and serve with some Tomato 
 sauce apart. 
 
 -555. EPIGRAMMES OF LAMB A LA PROVENQALE. 
 
 Cut, trim, and boil the epigrammes as in the foregoing, 
 then pass them lightly through some oil, instead of melted 
 butter, before breading them; and fry them in two gills 
 of oil, instead of fat. Meanwhile trim, clean, and fry, 
 also one pound of fresh mushrooms in two gills of oil, 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 269 
 
 to which add a clove of garlic chopped to a paste aM 
 a tablespoonfnl of blanched and chopped parsley. When 
 the epigrammes are of a nice colour and well drained, dish 
 them up in the usual way, put the mushrooms in the 
 centre, and serve. 
 
 REMARKS ON ROAST LAMB. 
 
 Lamb is generally cut in half lengthwise, through the 
 spine, and divided afterwards in quarters, viz., two hind- 
 quarters, each comprising a leg and loin attached to it, 
 and two fore-quarters, which include the cutlets, breast, 
 shoulder, and scrag, or neck-end of the carcass. 
 
 Each quarter may be roasted with as much advantage. 
 Many even prefer the fore-quarter, or target, as it is called 
 in Hampshire, to the hind -quarter; but should either of 
 these joints be too large for a small family, each can be cut 
 off and cooked separately, and differently, as shown in the 
 foregoing. The shoulder can be roasted by itself, as well 
 as the leg, and the loin likewise will make a small joint 
 when roasted, as will also the best-end of the neck, or the 
 whole neck and breast. It is however essential, before 
 roasting either loin or neck and breast, to cut with a 
 chopper between each chine-bone, as well as across the rib- 
 bones, between the cutlet and breast part, so as to facilitate 
 the carving of those joints when cooked. This is very 
 often neglected, and gives no end of trouble to the carver 
 when the joint is on the table, causing, at the same time, 
 the splashing of gravy over the cloth. 
 
 556. ROAST LAMB. 
 
 Whatever joint may be roasted, the process is the same. 
 Fold it with some of the lamb's caul which the butcher 
 
2 70 /^PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 generally rolls with it; put the joint to roast before an 
 even fire, and baste it two or three times with some of 
 its gravy. When cooked dish it up, and serve with the 
 gravy free from fat, properly strained, and poured over, 
 together with some Mint sauce (No. 225) in a sauce- 
 boat apart. 
 
 557. BRAIZED KID. 
 Take a whole kid about five weeks old, which when 
 skinned and cleansed looks very much like a skinned rabbit. 
 Cut it across the spine-bone just over the kidneys, so as 
 to leave these attached to the hind-part of the kid; put 
 both halves in a well-buttered braizing-pan ; season with 
 salt, pepper, and a piece of cinnamon about three inches 
 long ; add a few slices of gammon, a " bouquet garni," and 
 two bay-leaves ; moisten with a pint of broth, and let it 
 simmer very gently about two hours and a half, with 
 plenty of live embers on the lid, taking care, meanwhile, to 
 turn over the pieces of kid and to often baste them. 
 When cooked dish it up, strain the liquor, remove all 
 grease, pour it over the meat, and serve. 
 
OHAPTEE XII. 
 
 REMARKS ON PORK. 
 
 The meat of the pig is rather indigestible. Nevertheless 
 it occupies a very high position as a food in this as well 
 as in other countries. Hippocrates, that famous anatomist, 
 even considered pork to be the most nutritious of all flesh. 
 Be that as it may, what should we do without pork ? 
 Neither Italian nor French cooking could exist without it, 
 at least, not as it ought to be. 
 
 In Ireland, the pig is recognised as the " gentleman " 
 who pays the rent. I do not think the fellow could hold 
 such a financial position if he did.not possess in himself a 
 superior source of income to other four-footed animals. 
 
 I do not know if his social position is as high in England ; 
 but what I do know is, that he appears, under different 
 forms, on the best spread tables in the kingdom, as well as 
 on the poorest. He is therefore a necessity ; consequently 
 I will now proceed to introduce his gastronomic qualities 
 under the best possible forms. 
 
 558. PORK CUTLETS. GHERKIN SAUCE. 
 
 Cut and trim the pork cutlets in the same way as veal 
 or mutton cutlets ; marinade them for about an hour with 
 a little oil, salt, nutmeg, and pepper, and the juice of a 
 lemon all well mixed together ; grill them over a clear fire 
 about seven minutes on each side j see that they are well 
 
272 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 done without being scorched; dish them up in the usual 
 way, pour some Gherkin sauce (No. 192) in the centre of 
 the dish, and serve. 
 
 Note. — Pork cutlets plainly grilled as above can be served 
 with any sharp sauce. 
 
 559. PORK CUTLETS A LA MILANAISE. 
 
 Proceed as in No. 558. When the cutlets have been 
 properly marinaded, dry, and pass them over soine beaten 
 eggs and bread-crumbs; fry them in a saute-pan with 
 clarified butter, and serve with a garnish of either fresh 
 mushrooms, spinach or beans, and Tomato sauce. 
 
 Note. — Cutlets cooked as above can be served with any 
 pur^e of vegetables or fried onions and a sharp sauce 
 apart. 
 
 560, PORK CUTLETS WITH STUFFING. 
 
 Prepare and cook the pork cutlets in the same manner 
 as veal cutlets h I'ltalienne (see No. 530). 
 
 661. PORK CUTLETS WITH PUR^E OF CHESNUTS. 
 
 Cut and trim the cutlets as described ; put them in a 
 buttered saut6-pan with a shred onion, some chopped 
 parsley, and a few sprigs of thyme ; fry them on a brisk 
 fire for a few minutes till the cutlets are nicely coloured 
 on both sides ; moisten with a little stock ; season with 
 salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and simmer gently for about 
 an hour. When properly glazed, drain, and dish up 
 with a puree of chesnuts (No. 237) previously prepared 
 for that purpose ; skim off carefully all the fat from the 
 liquor, strain the gravy through a pointed strainer over 
 the cutlets, and serve. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 273 
 
 562. PORK CUTLETS A L'INDIENNE. 
 
 Trim and fry the cutlets as in the foregoing ; drain off 
 all the fat; add half a pint of Espagnole sauce (No. 151), 
 and a spoonful of curry-paste or one and a half spoonfuls 
 of curry powder. Cover the saut^-pan and simmer gently 
 for about fifteen minutes, taking care to turn the cutlets 
 over during that time ; dish them up, fill the centre with 
 plain boiled rice, strain the sauce over the cutlets, and 
 serve. 
 
 563. ROAST NECK OF PORK. 
 
 Saw off the chine-bone, and separate between the bones 
 of a neck of pork with a small chopper or meat-saw. 
 Prepare a stuffing for the pork, by chopping half a dozen 
 sage-leaves and four onions ^..of medium size; boil the 
 mixture four minutes in plain water, then drain well, and 
 put it in a stewpan with a large pinch of pepper, two of 
 salt, and an ounce of butter; fry this oh a slow fire for 
 about ten minutes. Meanwhile score the outside part of 
 the neck with a pointed knife; make an incision to place 
 the stuffing ; fasten the neck with string and roast it before 
 a good fire for an hour and a quarter. When well done 
 remove the string, dish the meat up, poiir some good gravy 
 on the dish, and serve with Apple sauce (No. 181) apart. 
 
 564. ROAST LOIN OF PORK. 
 
 Trim, score, and separate the bones of a loin of pork, as 
 previously described for the neck ; make an incision in the 
 upper part of the loin, to receive some pork stuffing, made 
 as in the foregoing; tie the part round with string, and 
 roast the meat before a brisk fire, for about an hour and 
 a half. When well done remove the string, dish up the 
 joint with some nice brown gravy, and serve with Apple 
 sauce apart. 
 
274 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 565. ROAST LEG OF PORK. 
 
 Saw off the shank-bone of a fresh leg of pork ; make 
 a large incision below the knupkle, between the rind and 
 meat, for the purpose of receiving the stuffing of sage and 
 onions, previously made as for roast neck of pork. Secure 
 this by sewing it up with, small twine; score with a 
 pointed knife the skin in parallel lines a quarter of an 
 inch apart, by holding the leg firmly with the left hand. 
 Then roast it before a good fire for about two hours and a 
 half. When done remove the tw;ine, dish the leg up with 
 some rich gravy, and serve with Apple sauce apart. 
 
 566. BOILED LEG OF PORK. 
 
 Saw off the shank-bone of a salted leg of pork, put it 
 in a large saucepan with four carrots, as many parsnips, 
 and an onion stuck with three cloves. Fill the pan nearly 
 full of cold water, and boil it gently for about three hours, 
 more or less, according to the size of the leg. When the 
 pork is done, drain, and dish it up with the parsnips 
 and carrots alternately placed, as a garnish. Pour some 
 plain gravy under, and serve with peas-pudding made as 
 follows: — Drain a pint of yellow split-peas soaked over- 
 night in cold water; tie them loosely in a pudding-cloth 
 and boil with the pork for aboiit three hours ; turn them out 
 of the cloth ; pound in a mortar and rub the . compound 
 through a fine wire sieve, moistening at times with a little 
 of the pork liquor, to help the puree passing; then put 
 it in a stewpan with the yolks of three eggs, an ounce 
 of butter, salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste; mix well 
 together with a wooden spoon, on the fire ; spread a well- 
 buttered pudding-cloth; place the pur^e in the centre of 
 it ; with the left hand draw the corners up, and with the 
 right tie round the pudding with string ; put it again 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 275 
 
 with the pork liquor to boil for an hour ; then carefully 
 turn it out on a dish without breaking, and serve. 
 
 567. ROAST SUCKING PIG. 
 
 A sucking pig for roasting should not be more than 
 three weeks old, for after that the meat loses delicacy. 
 Have the pig properly scalded, drawn, cleansed, and the 
 pettitoes cut off before leaving the pork-butcher's. Fill 
 the paunch with a stuffing similar to the one for roast 
 neck of pork ; to which add, after the sage and onions have 
 been fried, two or three handfuls of stale bread-crumbs, an 
 ounce xif butter, and the yolks of two eggs ; stir well and 
 mix together over the fire for five minutes. When the 
 sucking pig is well stuffed saw the paunch with twine; 
 give it its usual shape, and carefully fasten it at each 
 end on the spit with small iron skewers run through the 
 shoulders and hips; put the spit with the meat tO roast 
 before a bright fi.re for about two hours, taking care to 
 often baste it with a paste-brush dipped in olive-oil, as this 
 style of basting gives more crispness to the skin and an 
 even and good colour to the pig. 
 
 When the meat is done remove from the fire and the spit. 
 Cut off the head and split in two; put the brains in a 
 small stewpan; trim off the snout and jaws, leaving only 
 the cheeks and ears, and keep these hot ; divide the meat 
 of the pig straight down the back to the spine with a sharp 
 knife, and finish it with a meat-saw ; place the two sides 
 on a hot dish, without disturbing the stuffing, take the 
 twine or thread away, place the cheeks and ears at each 
 end of the dish, pour some good brown gravy under, and 
 serve with the following sauce: — Add to the brains set 
 apart a spoonful of. blanched chopped parsley, half a pint 
 of Espagnole sauce or some good gravy, two ounces of 
 
276 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 butter, salt and pepper to taste, and the juice of a lemon ; 
 stir this well together over the fire, and when nearly 
 boiling pour it in a sauce-boat. 
 
 Note. — Tomato, Eobert, Ravigote, or Italian sharp sauce 
 can be substituted for this sauce. 
 
 568. ROAST SUCKING PIGf A LA PROVEN5ALE. 
 
 Roast a quart of large chesnuts ; remove their skins 
 while hot, and pound them in a mortar with three ounces 
 of butter ; rub this through a wire sieve and put the pur^e 
 into a stewpan with a few chives, sweet-basil, parsley, 
 thyme, and a bay-leaf well chopped, a little grated nut- 
 meg, salt, pepper, and the yolks of three eggs. Mis these 
 well together on the fire; fill the paunch of the sucking 
 pig, and roast it in the same way as in the foregoing; 
 after which, dish up in the same style a,nd sei-ve with 
 Tomato sauce apart. 
 
 569. ROAST SUCKING PIG A L'lTALIENNE. 
 
 Make a polenta (No. 100) with three-quarters of a pound 
 of polenta flour and a quart of water. When nearly cooked 
 add four ounces of picked sultana raisins, the same 
 quantity each of grated parmesan cheese and butter, and 
 a good pinch of grated nutmeg. When this has been well 
 stirred and mixed together, fill with it the paunch of a 
 nice sucking pig prepared as in No. 567 ; fasten it with 
 twine in the usual way ; roast the pig in the same manner ; 
 cut it in the same style, and serve with Italian sauce 
 (No. 205) in a sauce-boat apart. 
 
 570. BOILED HAM WITH SPINACH. 
 
 Care must be taken when about to cook a ham, after 
 having previously sawn ofi: the shank-bone and removed 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 277 
 
 the thigk-bone, that it should have soaked in plenty of 
 cold water, the length of time depending 1 entirely upon 
 the age of the curing of the ham. Properly seasoned home- 
 cured hams should be soaked for at least twenty-four hours ; 
 foreign hams require to be soaked even longer, varying 
 from twenty-four hours to four days and nights. Care, 
 however, should be taken that the water is changed every 
 morning and night. English hams easily yielding to the 
 pressure of the hands are new, and in such cases a soak- 
 ing of six hours will be quite sufficient. It is also advisable, 
 when a ham is being soaked for several days, that its shiny 
 surface should be scraped off every time the water is 
 changed. When the ham has had its proper soaking, fold 
 around it about two pounds of good hay; then put it in 
 a large oval pot or stewpan, with plenty of cold water; 
 cover the pan and boil and simmer very gently on a slow 
 fire for about four hours, or till it is done, according to 
 the size of the ham. When the ham is done take the 
 pan to a cool place, leaving it to soak in the hay liquor 
 for about three-quarters of an hour, by which means it will 
 retain the whole of its moisture ; if taken out of the pan 
 to get cold, all its richness exudes from it. The ham, having 
 thus partially cooled, must be taken out, put on a dish, 
 and trimmed. Divest it of the rind to within four inches 
 from the knuckle-bone, then with a sharp knife trim the 
 part of rind left, in the shape of either leaves, palms, squares, 
 or ovals, arranged in a fan-like form. Trim the fat of the 
 ham smooth, without however removing more of it than is 
 actually necessary to give a neat appearance ; after which, 
 put it on a baking-sheet in the hot oven, for ten or twelve 
 minutes, then wipe the surface with a clean cloth, glaze 
 with a brush, and return it to the hot oven for about five 
 minutes. Meanwhile have some spinach ready on the fire ; 
 dish up the ham and garnish with well-dressed spinach, 
 
278 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 placed round it in tablespoonfuls, and serve with Madeira 
 sauce made as follows : — Put half a pint of Madeira or 
 sherry in a stewpan, with a little meat-glaze and a small 
 pinch of mignonette pepper. Boil on a brisk fire for five 
 minutes j add a pint of Espagnole sauce, and continue 
 reducing it till the sauce has reached a proper consistency 
 or coats the spoon ; then strain through a pointed strainer 
 into the sauce-boat. 
 
 Note. — I strongly advocate the use of hay when boiling 
 hams, as the flavour thereby imparted is superior to all 
 other ingredients or more expensive vegetables. 
 
 571, BRAIZED HAM WITH STEWED PEAS. 
 
 Follow the directions given in the foregoing as to the 
 trimming and soaking of the ham ; boil it in water without 
 hay for an hour ; strain and wash it clean, and wipe the 
 pan ; replace the ham in it with two carrots, two onions, 
 a head of celery, a " bouquet garni," two blades of mace, 
 and four cloves. Moisten with sufficient ordinary stock to 
 float the ham, and simmer very gently on a slow fire for 
 about four hours, taking care not to allow it to boil but 
 merely simmer, in order to obtain tenderness and mellow- 
 ness. When done remove the pan with the ham to a 
 cool place, leaving it, as in the foregoing, to cool in 
 its liquor. When nearly cold take it out of the pan and 
 trim it as described ; then put it back into the pan with 
 its own stock, and warm it gently, without boiling, over a 
 slow fire. When warmed through, place the ham on a 
 baking-dish in the oven for a few minutes to dry the 
 surface ; glaze and dish it up ; garnish round with stewed 
 peas (No. 286) j pour some bright Espagnole sauce over 
 the peas, and serve. 
 
 Note. — Hams boiled or braized as in Nos. 570 and 571 
 can also be dressed with jardinifere, French, broad, or hari- 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 279 
 
 cot beans, green peas, new carrots, Brussels sprouts, and 
 mac6doine. 
 
 572. BAKED HAM, HOUSEWIFE STYLE. 
 
 Put a ham that has been only trimmed and soaked, as 
 previously described, in a large oval pan with plenty of 
 cold water; boil, and Jet it simmer very gently for an 
 hour; take the pan with the ham in it, away from the 
 fire to get cold. Meanwhile mix to rather a thick paste, 
 one pound and a half of flour with plain water. When 
 the ham is cold take it out of the pan ; drain it ; remove 
 the whole rind and trim off the fat ; then wrap up the 
 ham closely with the paste; fold this with a buttered 
 sheet of paper ; fasten it on the spit, and roast before a 
 moderate fire for some three hours, taking care meanwhile, 
 to often baste the paper with any sort of fat. Then take 
 the spit away from the fire, remove the paper carefully 
 from the paste, without breaking the latter ; cut a small 
 round hole in the centre of the paste, into which introduce, 
 little by little, half a bottle of Madeira or Marsala wine ; 
 stop up the hole with fresh paste; fold the ham again, 
 with a buttered sheet of paper, and roast for half an 
 hour longer. Then take it away from the fire, place on 
 a dish, remove the paper and paste from around, and 
 serve with Madeira sauce (see Boiled Ham and Spinach) 
 apart, together with a dish either of cauliflowers, haricot 
 or French beans, green peas, or carrots, cooked in salt 
 water. 
 
 Remarks on Boar. 
 
 The boar is a pig in a wild state, and its flesh although 
 tough is similar to pork, except the head, which is the 
 
28o PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 most delicate part. All other parts of the animal are 
 cooked in the same manner as pork. 
 
 573. BOAR CUTLETS A LA SARDE. 
 
 Cut and trim the cutlets as described for pork outlets, 
 and marinade them for twenty-four hours. Half an hour 
 before serving, drain and wipe the cutlets dry, and fry 
 them in a sautd-pan, with butter, on a brisk fire, for eight 
 minutes. When done drain the butter from the pan, 
 moisten well with Mustard sauce (No. 223), and season 
 with salt and pepper. Let the cutlets simmer in this 
 three minutes on each side, and then dish them up, pour 
 the sauce over them, and serve with a garnish of potato 
 pur^e. 
 
 574. BOAR CUTLETS, ENGLISH STYLE. 
 
 Cut, trim, and marinade the cutlets for two or three 
 days. Wipe them dry, pass them through clarified butter 
 and bread-crumbs, and broil them over a clear and brisk 
 fire for four minutes each side ; sprinkle some salt over 
 , each cutlet ; dish up with a garnish of fresh mushrooms, 
 either stewed or grilled, and serve with Gooseberry sauce 
 (No. 180) apart. 
 
 575. BOAR CUTLETS A L'ESPAGNOLE. 
 
 Out and trim the cutlets and fry them in a saut^-pan 
 ■with clarified butter over a brisk fire ; season with salt and 
 pepper to taste, and when they are of a nice amber colour 
 dish them up nicely in a circular form, add to the gravy 
 in which the cutlets were cooked a glass of white wine, 
 half a pint of Espagnole sauce (No. 1 5 1 ), a teaspoonful each 
 of blanched chopped parsley and fennel ; reduce the sauce 
 on a brisk fire for about five minutes ; pour it over the 
 cutlets, and serve. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 2S1 
 
 Boar's legs are cooked in the same style as legs of pork, 
 but whea about to be marinaded, add a gill of vinegar to 
 the marinade. 
 
 576. BOAR'S HEAD STUFFED. 
 
 Singe and clean the head most carefully, and bone it, 
 beginning under the throat, taking care not to cut the 
 skin on the top when the knife passes over the bony part 
 of the head ; remove all the fatty and sinewy parts from 
 inside the head, and spread it out on a large dish and rub 
 it well with a mixture of four pounds of salt, four ounces 
 of saltpetre, and four ounces of moist sugar. When well 
 rubbed all over, let it remain spread on the mixture ; cover 
 the meat with two bay-leaves, a few sprigs each of thyme, 
 sweet-basil, and parsley, one dozen cloves, and the slices 
 of two onions, and put the dish in a cool place. Two days 
 afterwards give it a second rubbing ; spread the head on 
 the opposite side ; replace the aromatic herbs on the top, 
 and let it remain thus for five or six days longer, taking 
 care however, to turn the head over the brine every day 
 during that time. To dress the head, take it out "of the 
 brine and wipe it well with a cloth before laying it on the 
 table. 
 
 Chop up two pounds ojE lean veal free from skin and 
 gristle, and one pound of fat bacon ; pound these together 
 in the mortar, or pass it through the sausage-machine; 
 season it weU with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and put it 
 on a dish apart. Cut a cured and cooked ox- tongue, two 
 pounds of lean pork, two pounds of fat bacon, or the same 
 quantity of calf's udder boiled in broth, and two pounds 
 of peeled trufSes, all cut in irregular shapes, but not larger 
 than inch dice ; mix them, and then with the pounded meat 
 make a layer on the inside of the head about an inch thick j 
 
282 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 put a layer of the mixed dice of tongue &c. over this, with 
 a few pistachio kernels, the skin of which must have been 
 previously removed by scalding ; cover these with a layer 
 of meat, and proceed with the dice and pistachios alter- 
 nately till the whole mixture is used. When the head is 
 sufficiently filled, the two sides should be turned over and 
 sewn up with a small trussing-needle and twine, so as to 
 thoroughly secure the stuffing. The head must be wrapped 
 in a strong and well-spread buttered cloth and bound round 
 very tightly with tape an inch and a half wide, so as to 
 preserve its original form. Place it in a large pan with 
 any game carcasses or trimmings of meat there may be 
 at hand, and four cow-heels, also a " bouquet garni," four 
 carrots, four onions, with a clove stuck in each, a little 
 ginger, salt, and pepper, a bottle of white wine, a gill of 
 brandy, and as much stock as will be required to cover the 
 head well ; then boil it, and simmer gently, with the lid on, 
 for at least five hours ; after which ascertain if it is properly 
 done by inserting a trussing-needle. If the needle does 
 not go in easily, continue the simmering for a quarter or 
 half an hour longer. Then remove the pan, and leave 
 the head to cool in its own liquor. Before the broth is 
 cold however, the head must be taken out. See if it has 
 shrunk in the cloth ; if so it must be carefully tightened 
 so as preserve its shape, and then put back into its broth 
 to complete the cooling. When quite cold take the head 
 out of the pan and put it in the oven for a minute or two, 
 after having untied and removed the cloth; wipe off the 
 fat from the surface with a clean cloth ; trim the back part 
 of the head ; see that the ears have their proper form, and 
 if not use some small wooden skewers, and hide these with 
 a mixture of lard and mutton suet. Glaze the head with 
 a dark-coloured glaze made for that purpose ; decorate the 
 snout with a little piping ; place modelled tusks and glass 
 
"PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 283 
 
 eyes to complete the dressing ; then dish up, and ornament 
 with aspic jelly. 
 
 Note. — Hog's-head is also stuffed as above ; but for this 
 purpose the hejid should be cut off deep in the shoulders 
 before the pig is scalded, and then the bristles singed with 
 lighted straw so as to have all the appearance of a wild 
 boar's head. 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 REMARKS ON VENISON. 
 
 The flesh of that ruminant and light-footed mammalian 
 animal, the roebuck or deer, is both delicate and tasty, but 
 must be hung in a draughty place for at least a fortnight 
 before it is fit for the table. Those living in wild and 
 mountainous parts are the best, and the pale-brown,, 
 yellow-colour breed is superior to the red one for cooking 
 purposes. 
 
 577. ROEBUCK CUTLETS A LA CHASSEUR. 
 
 Roebuck cutlets should be cut in the same style as 
 mutton cutlets, and after being trimmed, should be fried 
 with clarified butter on a brisk fire and seasoned with salt 
 and pepper. Meanwhile have ready in a stewpan on the 
 fire, some game essence (No. 172), to which add and. warm 
 up as many slices of cooked pickled ox -tongue as there are 
 cutlets ; dish up the cutlets alternately with the slices of 
 tongue, pour the sauce over, and serve. 
 
 578. ROEBUCK CUTLETS A LA SURPRISE. 
 
 Prepare and trim the cutlets of a well-hung neck of 
 roebuck ; marinade them as mutton cutlets for two hoiu's, 
 and drain, flour, and fry them with butter on a brisk fire 
 for two or three minutes on each side. Meanwhile have 
 ready and cold a stufiing composed as follows : — Pound in 
 
 a mortar a little cooked veal and ham free from skin and 
 
 284 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 285 
 
 gristle, season with salt, pepper, a good pinch of aromatic 
 herbs, and a gill of rum, mix with the brains of the 
 roebuck cooked in good broth and cut in very small dice, 
 after having been previously washed and soaked in water 
 in the usual way. Cover or surround both sides of the 
 cutlets with this forcemeat, then pass thein through bread- 
 crumbs, beaten yolks of eggs, and bread-crumbs again ; fry 
 them with clarified butter in a saut(5-pan, and serve with 
 Supreme sauce (No. 188) apart. 
 
 579. ROEBUCK CHOPS, GRILLED. 
 
 Cut and trim the chops of roebuck in the same manner 
 as mutton chops, flatten them slightly with the cutlet- 
 bat, broil over a moderate fire, turning them over every 
 two or three minutes till done ; then sprinkle each with 
 salt and pepper ; dish them up, taking care not to spill the 
 gravy that may be on their surface ; pour some good brown 
 gravy under, and serve with some currant jelly apart. 
 
 680. BREAST OF ROEBUCK A LA LYONNAISE. 
 
 Cook the breast of a roebuck in good broth, to which 
 a glass of white wine and a " bouquet garni " have been 
 added; when the meat is well done, drain, bone, press 
 between two dishes, and let it get cold. Meanwhile skim 
 off the fat and strain the broth in which the breast has 
 boiled ; return it to the stewpan and reduce by one-third, 
 over a brisk fire; then add one pound of nice chesnuts, 
 previously peeled and blanched, so as to clean them of 
 their second skin; continue the boiling till the chesnuts 
 are well done and nicely glazed. When the meat is cold, 
 cut it in pieces two inches wide ; squeeze the juice of two 
 lemons and sprinkle some pepper and grated nutmeg over 
 them; dip each piece in some clarified butter and bread- 
 
286 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 crumbs, and broil them for a few minutes over a clear fire. 
 When nicely browned dish them up in a circle, garnish the 
 centre with the glazed chesnuts, and serve with the re- 
 mainder of the glaze apart. 
 
 581. HARICOT OF ROEBUCK. 
 
 Cut the scrag-end of the neck and breast of venison 
 between each bone, put them in a saute-pan, and fry to 
 a nice brown ; drain off all the fat, and sprinkle over them 
 two tablespoonfuls of flour. Continue frying them for 
 three or four minutes longer; after which, moisten with 
 half a bottle of claret and a quart of broth ; add a " bouquet 
 garni," two large carrots, and three turnips cut into fancy 
 shapes, and a dozen small button onions ; set the pan over 
 the fire, and stir the contents with a wooden spoon till it 
 boils, then let it simmer gently for about an hour and a 
 half. When the meat and vegetables are cooked, take 
 them out of the sautd-pan with a large perforated spoon, 
 and put them into another stewpan on the fire with half a 
 pint of its liquor, free from fat, to keep it hot. Skim off 
 all the grease from the remainder of the liquor, reduce it 
 on a brisk fire to a half-glaze, strain it through a pointed 
 strainer over the meat and vegetables, season with salt and 
 pepper, simmer for five minutes, dish up and serve. 
 
 582. ROEBUCK FRY. 
 
 Clean and cut the fry of a roebuck into small scollops, 
 season these with salt and pepper, and roll them well over 
 the flour j then fry them to a nice brown in a saute-pan 
 with some clarified butter. When done, dish up with fried 
 parsley, and serve with sharp Italian sauce (No. 205) 
 apart. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 287 
 
 583. ROEBUCK'S BRAINS. 
 
 These brains are prepared, cooked, and fried in the same 
 style as sheep's or calf's brains. 
 
 584. JUGGED VENISON. 
 
 Cut in three-inch pieces either shoulder or breast of 
 venison ; fry these to a nice brown in a stewpan with some 
 fat bacon that has been at least four days in brine ; drain 
 off the fat ; sprinkle three tablespoonfuls of flour over the 
 venison ; fry it, and toss the stewpan for three minutes 
 longer; moisten with a bottle of claret and a quart of 
 broth; season with salt and pepper; add a "bouquet 
 garni," and set the pan on the fire, stirring very frequently 
 until it boils; then simmer gently. Meanwhile fry in 
 butter for five minutes, two dozen sniall button onions, 
 and when the venison has boiled for half an hour add to it 
 the onions and a pint of button champignons; continue 
 the simmering till the meat is done and tender, which will 
 take about two hours, then throw the "bouquet garni" 
 away ; skim off all scum and grease from the surface, and 
 pour it over a dish ; garnish round with fried crofitons cut 
 triangle-shape, and serve. 
 
 585. LOIN OR SADDLE OF ROEBUCK A L'ECOSSAISE. 
 Trim nicely a well-hung loin or saddle of venison ; cover 
 the fillet with thin slices of fat bacon, and place it in a 
 large sautd-pan with a carrot, two onions sliced, a small 
 "bouquet garni," four ounces of butter, six cloves, and 
 four ounces of streaky bacon cut in narrow strips. Fry 
 these on a moderate fire for an hour with the lid on, taking 
 care to turn the meat and baste it often with the butter ; 
 then add a pint of good brotlJ, and continue simmering 
 
288 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 and basting the meat till done. Mean-while prepare some 
 croquets of potatoes (No. 326). When the meat is ready 
 dish it up, garnish with croquets of potatoes ; strain the 
 liquor in which the venison was cooked into a small stew- 
 pan, add half a pint of Espagnole sauce (No. 151), with 
 two tablespoonfuls of currant jelly, and salt and pepper to 
 taste ; stir this on the fire for a few minutes, or till the 
 jelly is well melted, pour it in a sauce-boat, and serve. 
 
 586. HAUNCH OF ROEBUCK ROASTED, 
 
 Saw' off the shank-bone; remove and pare away the 
 sinews and dark skin of a well-seasoned haunch of venison ; 
 wrap it in a buttered sheet of paper and roast it for about 
 an hour before a good fire, taking care to baste it twice with a 
 little butter. A quarter of an hour before the meat is ready 
 remove the paper ; sprinkle some salt and pepper over it ; 
 continue the roasting, and baste it once more. Then take 
 the haunch away from the fire ; dish it up on a very hot 
 dish, and serve with a sauce-boat of Venison sauce (No. 
 196) and a dish of plain boiled French beans apart. 
 
 Note. — Haunch df venison is generally served on. a hot- 
 water dish. 
 
 587. HAUNCH OF ROEBUCK LARDED AND ROASTED. 
 
 Trim and saw off the, bone below the knuckle, of a haunch 
 of venison; make a circular incision about six inches in 
 diameter on the top of the leg with a pointed knife, and 
 remove the skin, so as to leave the surface perfectly smooth 
 and bare, in order to lard it rather thickly. Marinaxie it for 
 two days in a liquor made as follows : — Fry in a stewpan 
 with an ounce of butter for five minutes a shred carrot 
 and two onions, a few sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, 
 two shalots, and two blades of mace; add a quart of 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. • 289 
 
 boiling water, a pint of good vinegar, two tablespoonfuls 
 of salt, and half a tablespponful of pepper. Boil and 
 simmer very gently for about half an hour, and pour the 
 contents into an earthenware pan or basin large enough, 
 to hold the haunch, of roebuck. After having marinaded 
 this two days, take the joint out of the liquor three hours 
 before serving, wipe it well, and butter it with a brush 
 dipped in melted butter; then cover the leg with a soft 
 paste made of flour and boiling water, well beaten and 
 mixed, so as not to leave any^clotting, taking care, also, 
 that the paste should be hot when wrapping the leg with 
 it, in order that its layer should not be more than the 
 sixteenth of an inch thick ; after which, cover this with 
 two well-buttered sheets of paper, and roast before a 
 moderate fire for two hours and a half or more, according 
 to the size of the leg ; then remove the paper and paste 
 from the meat, dish it up on a hot-water dish, and serve 
 with a sauce made as follows : — Boil and strain through 
 a cloth the liquor ia which the haunch was marinaded ; 
 brown nicely in a stewpan one ounce of flour with one 
 of butter ; moisten it with the marinade, stirring the while, 
 and reduce it by a quarter of its quantity over a brisk 
 fire j add a gill of port wine, stir again over the fire, and 
 serve. 
 
 Note. — A haunch of venison can remain in the marinade 
 in a cool place for a week or more without fear of being 
 spoilt. It can also be roasted without a coat of paste 
 round it, and then one hour will be sufficient to cook it. 
 
 588. HASHED VENISON. 
 
 The remains of the leg or haunch should be cut in thin 
 slices not more than two and a half inches square. Put 
 about a pint of Venison sauce (No. 196) in a stewpan on 
 the fire ; when it boils add the slices of meat to it ; draw 
 
 T 
 
290 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY, 
 
 the stewpan by the side of the- fire and cover it. Let 
 the meat warm up gradually, by tossing the pan frequently, 
 without, however, letting the contents boil. When propeirly 
 warmed dish up in a large hot dish, with the sauce poured 
 over, and serve with crottons fried in butter. 
 
 Eemaeks on Haee. 
 
 The flesh of this puny quadruped is always savoury, but 
 varies in taste according to the nature of herbs it feeds 
 on; those living on high and mountainous ground are 
 superior in flavour and delicacy to those living on marshy 
 land. These can be recognised by the colour of the fur ; 
 the darker the back and the whiter the under part the 
 better the hare. Hares should only be eaten in winter. 
 
 589. JUGGED HARE, 
 
 In skinning a hare, draw the blood carefully through a 
 fine strainer into a basin containing an ounce of melted 
 butter, and keep it covered in a cool place till wanted. 
 Throw away the whole of the intestines ; wipe the hare 
 with a cloth and cut it into two-and-arhalf-inch pieces ; put 
 these in a jar or basin to marinade for one day if possible, 
 with a bottle of claret and some aromatic herbs, such as 
 bay-leaves, a few sprigs of parsley, thyme, and marjoram. 
 
 When wanted, brown in a stewpan, with two ounces of 
 butter, four ounces of streaky bacon cut in strips, two inches 
 long by half an inch thick, two onions, two medium-sized 
 carrots, one head • of celery, and two leeks, all nicely shred, 
 and a '' bouquet garni." When properly browned, moisten 
 with a gill of good vinegar, stir, and let this dry in the 
 stewpan on the fire with the vegetables. Then moisten 
 with the winie in which the hare has soaked ; add the pieces 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 291 
 
 of hare and a quart of broth ; salt and pepper to taste ; 
 boil, stir occasionally, and draw by the side of the stove to 
 simmer very gently, with the lid on, and stir occasionally. 
 Meanwhile fry in butter two dozen button onions to a nice 
 golden colour all round ; glaze them in a pint of Espagnole 
 sauce or some good veal stock till well done. When the 
 pieces of hare are tender pass the liquor through a fine wire 
 sieve ; put the pieces of meat and bacon into a bain-marie 
 to keep hot ; return the strained sauce into the stewpan 
 and reduce it on a brisk fire if necessary. Draw it away 
 from the fire; skim off the fat, and add gradually about 
 half a pint of the sauce to the basin containing the pre- 
 served blood, taking care to stir quickly in order to mix 
 the two well together ; return this to the stewpan, stirring 
 the while ; after which, skim off the fat from the onions, 
 and pour these with their glaze into the blood sauce. Add 
 also two dozen forcemeat balls, made with sausage-meat and 
 the yolks of two eggs well mixed together, rolled into small 
 nuts and fried to a nice brown in boiling fat. Stir the 
 whole over the fire till nearly boiling, pour it over the hare, 
 and keep hot till wanted ; dish up together, garnished 
 with a dozen croutons. 
 
 590. CIVET OF HARE. 
 
 Skin, preserve the blood, clean, and cut a hare in the 
 same manner as described in No. 589. Cut half a pound of 
 streaky bacon into one-inch dice, fry these in a stewpan to 
 a yellow colour and put them on a plate ; fry afterwards, 
 in the same pan, the pieces of hare to a brown colour ; 
 sprinkle over them two tablespoonfuls of flour, and continue 
 the frying for three minutes longer, tossing, meanwhile, 
 the pieces of meat in the pan. Then add the fried bacon, 
 a small carrot, a " bouquet garni," an onion stuck with four 
 
292 
 
 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 cloves, salt and pepper to taste; moisten with a bottle of 
 claret and a quart of broth ; stir till it boils, and remove 
 to the side to simmer gently with the lid on. Mean- 
 while fry a dozen button onions in a stewpan, with an 
 ounce of butter, for five minutes, add them, with a pint 
 of champignons sliced in two, to the civet, after the latter 
 has simmered for at least half an hour; then continue 
 gently boiling till the hare is done. When the piecesof 
 hare are tender skim off all the fat from the surface ; 
 remove the bouquet, large onion, and carrots; dish up 
 the meat and bacon ; pour half a pint of the hare sauce 
 gradually into the basin containing the blood ; stir this 
 constantly ; pour it back with the civet sauce ; stir on the 
 fire till it nearly boils ; pour it over the hare, garnish with 
 fried crolitons, and serve. 
 
 591. LEVERET A LA CHASSEUR. 
 
 Cut up the leveret into small joints as follows : — Separate 
 the hind-legs even with the loins, remove the shoulders, 
 divide the loin into six parts, and split the head and neck 
 in halves. Place all these in a saut6-pan with two ounces 
 of butter, fry them of a light-brown colour over a brisk 
 fire, then add a tablespoonful of chopped shalots, parsley, 
 and mushrooms, well mixed together ; put the lid on and 
 simmer for about ten minutes ; after which, drain off the 
 grease, add a pint of good broth, half a pound of nice clean 
 mushrooms, a piece of glaze as big as a walnut, a little 
 grated nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste. Simmer the whole 
 with the lid on for ten minutes. Squeeze the juice of half 
 a lemon ; stir the contents ; dish up the pieces of hare and 
 mushrooms ; pour the sauce over, and serve with a garnish 
 of crofttons fried in clarified butter. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 293 
 
 592, FILLETS OF HARE LARDED. VENISON SAUCE. 
 
 Fillet two hares and split these into halves ; lard them 
 in the same style as fillets of beef, and place them at 
 the bottom of a stewpan lined with thin layers of fat 
 bacon. Moisten with half a pint of Madeira and half a 
 pint of good veal stock. Season with two bay-leaves, salt, 
 and pepper ; put a round of buttered paper on the fillets, 
 and set them in the oven to simmer for twenty-five minutes, 
 taking care to often baste them with ■ their own liquor. 
 When they are nearly done remove the paper in order to 
 dry and glaze the larding ; drain the fillets upon a cloth ; 
 dish them up in a circle ; pour in the centre some Venison 
 sauce (No. 196), and serve. 
 
 593. HARE'S BACK WITH SHARP ITALIAN SAUCE. 
 
 Lard the back of a hare with small strips of fat bacon ; 
 fiy on the spit and wrap in a buttered sheet of paper ; then 
 roast it before a clear fire for twenty-five minutes ; re- 
 move the paper; continue roasting and basting for five 
 minutes longer, when the meat will be glazed, and then 
 dish up and serve with some Italian sauce (No. 205) in a 
 sauce-boat apart. 
 
 594. ROAST HARE. 
 
 Skin a hare (saving the blood) and clean it as previously 
 described. Cross the hind-legs ; that is, pass one through 
 the other; roll the flank round on each side and secure 
 it with Wooden skewers. Hold the loin and legs over the 
 fire for a few minutes, to set the flesh and facilitate larding. 
 Lard the thick part of the legs and fillet ; put the hare on 
 the spit ; cover it with buttered paper, but see that it is 
 doubled over the fillets; then roast it before a good fire 
 for thirty-five minutes, making the fire more brisk on the 
 
294 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 side of the hind-quarter. Eemove the paper j glaze the 
 hare by basting it with its own gravy for two or three 
 minutes longer; after which, dish.it up with the gravy. 
 Meanwhile have ready a pint of Yenison sauce with which 
 the blood of the hare has been dUuted and thickened as 
 described for jugged hare. Pour this into a sauce-boat 
 and serve with the hare. 
 
 Eemaeks on Rabbits. 
 
 There are two kinds of rabbits, the wild and tame, the 
 former being the better of the two. Rabbits, being so very 
 fertile in their progeny, are always plentiful in the market, 
 and can at all times be had for a trifle ; therefore I should 
 consider it a sin if we were not to prepare and serve them 
 in the most advantageous and best possible manner known 
 in cookery. 
 
 The flesh of young rabbits is very tender, as well as a 
 delicate and wholesome food, and makes good and nutritious 
 soups. 
 
 To farmers and others living in country places, where 
 butcher's meat can only be had with difiiculty, this animal 
 is a great boon, as it affords them fresh meat, a food so 
 essential for health and strength to mankind. The flesh 
 of tame rabbits can be made equal in taste and flavour 
 to that of wild, if they are given some aromatic plants to 
 eat for a few days previous to being killed. 
 
 595. STEWED RABBIT. 
 
 Skin, draw, and wash a rabbit clean ; cut it into two or 
 
 three inch pieces ;, slice a quarter of a poimd of streaky 
 
 bacon into two-inch strips half an inch thick ; fry them in 
 
 a saut^-pan, with an ounce of butter, to a yellow colour ; 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 295 
 
 remove the bacon to a plate ; fry the pieces of rabbit in 
 the same pan for ten minutes ; sprinkle over them two 
 tablespoonfuls of flour; continue to fry and stir on the 
 fire for three minutes longer; add half a pint of good 
 broth, half a pint of claret, a " bouquet garni," salt and 
 pepper to taste, eighteen small button onions, previously 
 fried in butter, and the strips of fried bacon. Simmer this 
 with the lid on for about twenty minutes ; take out the 
 "bouquet garni,'' dish up the stew, and serve with fried 
 crofitons. 
 
 596. RABBIT STEWED A LA CHASSEUR. 
 
 Skin, draw, and wash a rabbit clean ; cut off each hind- 
 leg at the joint, even with the loins ; remove the shoulders 
 in the same way ; separate the neck from the head ; split 
 both in halves, and divide the loin or back into six pieces. 
 Put these into a saut6-pan with two ounces of clarified 
 butter, and fry them over a brisk fire to a nice brown 
 colour ; then sprinkle over them a tablespoonful each of 
 finely- chopped shalots, parsley, and fresh mushrooms; cover 
 the pan and set it over a slow fire for about ten minutes ; 
 after which, sprinkle in a tablespoonful of flour ; toss and 
 stir over the fire for two or three minutes longer ; add a 
 pint of broth, a small piece of meat-glaze, and half a 
 pound of fresh mushrooms ; season with salt, pepper, and 
 a pinch of grated nutmeg. Simmer this for ten minutes, 
 taking care to stir it occasionally, and then squeeze the 
 juice of a lemon over the contents ; stir again ; dish up 
 with a garnish of croutons,, and serve. 
 
 597, RABBIT A LA PROVENQALE. 
 
 After having skinned and cleaned a. rabbit in the usual 
 way, cut it into two-inch pieces ; put a gill of salad-oil into 
 a sautd-pan with a clove of garlic chopped very fine ; fry 
 
296 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 the pieces of rabbit with it to a nice brown colour over a 
 brisk fire; drain off the fat; moisten with a pint of broth, 
 half a pint of Tomato sauce, six fresh tomatoes cut in 
 quarters, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir this over 
 the fire and simmer gently with the lid on for twenty- 
 minutes ; sprinkle a tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley 
 a few minutes before removing the pan from the fire; 
 then dish it up, pour the sauce over, and serve. 
 
 598. CURRIED RABBIT. 
 
 Clean and cut a rabbit as in the foregoing ; cut in small 
 dice two onions of medium size, and fry them in a saut^- 
 pan over a moderate fire for five minutes, with two ounces 
 of butter and an ounce of curry powder ; stir the while, 
 to prevent burning. Then add the pieces of rabbit, and 
 brown them round slightly ; after which, sprinkle over the 
 lot three tablespoonfuls of flour. Continue the .stirring 
 three minutes longer ; add a quart of good stock and salt 
 and pepper ,to taste, and simmer for three-quarters of an 
 hour with the lid on, when the rabbit will be done. Pour 
 the contents of the saut6-pan into a colander, over a basin ; 
 clean and put the pieces of rabbit into a stewpan ; strain 
 the sauce from the basin through a tammy into the stewpan 
 with the rabbit ; all but boil it, and then dish it up ; pour 
 the sauce over, and serve with half a pound of rice, pre- 
 viously boiled in plain water, properly washed afterwards 
 in cold water, to remove the starch and separate the grain, 
 and either warmed up by steam or spj'ead on a dish in a 
 hot closet todi-y and warm. 
 
 599. RABBIT A LA NAPOLITAINE. 
 
 ' Prepare a rabbit as before, and brown the pieces in a 
 stewpan with two ounces of- butter, then drain off the 
 grease, add a quart of Neapolitan sauce (No. 208), pre- 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 297 
 
 viously made for the purpose, salt and pepper to taste, and 
 simmer for an hour with the lid on, taking care to give it 
 an occasional stir ; then sprinkle a tablespoonful of finely 
 chopped and blanched parsley, and squeeze the juice of a 
 lemon over the contents ; stir the lot for half a minute ; 
 dish it up ; pour the sauce over, and serve. 
 
 600. RABBIT A LA POULETTE. 
 
 Clean and cut a rabbit in small joints, put these in a 
 stewpan with a " bouquet garni," two onions each stuck 
 with three cloves, one head of celery, one carrot, a gill of 
 vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, and enough stock or 
 water to cover the whole. Simmer it for about an hour 
 with the lid on. Meanwhile prepare some Poulette 
 sauce (No. 179). When the meat is cooked and tender, 
 strain the broth through a colander into a basin, to be 
 used as soup ; put the pieces of rabbit in the stewpan 
 with the Poulette sauce, toss these up over the fire for 
 two minutes without boiling, then dish it up with the 
 sauce poured over, and garnish with fried croutons before 
 serving. 
 
 601. ROAST RABBIT. 
 
 Skin, draw, and clean a rabbit ; cut the fore-legs at the 
 first joint, and the hind-legs above the knuckle-joint ; then 
 truss it by securing the head with string passed between 
 the shoulders and the hind-legs, crossed in the same style 
 as for roast hare. Tie with a string a slice of fat bacon 
 on the back of the rabbit ; dish it up, and serve with Hare 
 sance (No. 200) apart. 
 
 Note. — Rabbits, besides being prepared as in the fore- 
 going methods, can also be dressed in almost every variety 
 of form in which chickens cut in small quarters are 
 prepared, and they are also made into pur6e, quenelles, 
 croquets, and salpicons. 
 
-CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 REMARKS ON. POULTRY. 
 
 Although England is rich in poultry, the supply is far 
 from being equal to the demand, and the quality (apart 
 from Surrey chickens) is not what it should be ; hence the 
 large importation of that most delicate and nutritious of 
 all food from various foreign countries. 
 
 There is no country in the world where encouragements 
 for breeding poultry are more offered and better recom- 
 pensed than in England, nearly every town in each 
 county having its poultry-show, and valuable prizes are 
 yearly given, as well as fabulous prices paid for bird 
 winners, ;^ioo having been paid for a game-cock a few 
 years ago at the Crystal Palace show; but the greatest 
 number of exhibitors are fancy breeders, whose only aim 
 is perfect plumage and colour, instead of quality and 
 quantity of flesh. 
 
 If the authorities were to award prizes to the largest 
 poultry breeders of their respective counties, the effect 
 would be different, and the nation as well as the farmers 
 would benefit.^ 
 
 Several kinds or species of birds are included in poultry, 
 such as chickens, capons, ducks, geese, turkeys, pigeons, 
 guinea-fowls, swans, and pearhens, and those are of different 
 breeds, especially the chickens, pigeons, and ducks. Dork- 
 ing and game fowls are considered the best for the table ; 
 the former are recognised by their double claws, and the 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 299 
 
 latter by their slate-coloured legs. Eeal Surrey chickens 
 possess a well-deserved reputation for plumpness, tender- 
 ness, and delicacy of flavour. 
 
 Both knowledge and care are required to select good 
 poultry ; old and tough fowls can easily be detected by a 
 slight tinge of violet seen through the skin of the thigh, 
 as well as by the thin necks and feet. A young and tender 
 chicken has always large feet and big knee-joints, which 
 disappear with age; the flesh of the pinion and breast 
 should be tried, and if these are found to be tender the 
 bird can be cooked with confidence. 
 
 An old turkey has, in a similar manner, a violet tinge on 
 the legs and back, but a young one will be recognised by 
 the whiteness of its flesh and fat. 
 
 The fat of young ducks and geese is transparent arid 
 light-coloured. Break off the lower part of the beak; if 
 it breaks easily the bird is young. 
 
 Pigeons when old have fillets of a dark violet colour, but 
 when it is of a light red they are young birds. 
 
 Beware of floured poultry, as well as of broken breasts. 
 
 602. STEWED CHICKEN WITH RISOTTO. 
 
 Select a nice plump tender chicken, draw and singe 
 it over the flame of a gas-burner, cut it up in small 
 joints in the following manner : — Lay the _chicken on the 
 table with the head towards you, and with a sharp knife 
 in the right hand cut off the neck, then the wings or 
 pinions at the second joint, then the legs at the knotty 
 bend of the first joint; then make an incision from the 
 point of the breast-bone to the wing-joint on both sides ; 
 turn the chicken round and make two other incisions to 
 separate the thighs from the body; take off both wings 
 and thighs, by laying the chicken on its side; separate 
 the breast from the back and cut across in two. Put 
 
30O PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 these pieces in a saut^-pan. with two ounces of butter 
 and fry them to a nice brown ; moisten with a pint and 
 a half of good broth and a gill of Marsala; season with 
 salt, pepper, and a pinch of grated nutmeg ; simmer with 
 the lid on till the pieces of chicken are done, which will 
 take about half an hour. Meanwhile prepare a thick 
 risotto (see Eisotto). When the chicken is ready, remove 
 the pieces on to a dish and keep them hot ; add the gravy 
 to the risotto ; stir, and dish it up when cooked ; arrange 
 the pieces of chicken nicely on the top ; place the two 
 pieces of the back in the middle of the dish ; lay across, 
 one over the other, the two legs, the two pieces of neck, 
 and the pinions ; fill up the other two openings or squares 
 thus formed with the thighs and wings, and cover the lot 
 with the two pieces of breast, and serve. 
 
 603. STEWED CHICKEN A LA MARENGO. 
 
 Cut a tendei" chicken in small joints as in the foregoing. 
 Melt in a sautd-pan an ounce of butter with a gill of salad- 
 oil; add a bruised clove of garlic, a bay- leaf, two sprigs of 
 thyme, salt and pepper to taste ; fry the pieces of chicken 
 with these, for about twenty-five minutes on a brisk ficre 
 until the pieces are done, when they must be removed from 
 the' saut^-pan, placed on a dish, and kept hot ; throw away 
 the aromatic herbs, and pour half a pint of Tomato sauce 
 into the saut6-pan, with the half of that quantity of good 
 broth or gravy and a dozen sliced champignons ; stir this 
 and let it boil for five minutes over a brisk fire, then draw 
 the pan away, add the juice of half a lemon, stir the con- 
 tents well together, dish up the pieces of chicken in the 
 same way as in No. 602, garnish the dish with the cham- 
 pignons and crolitons fried in butter, and as many eggs 
 fried in oil as there are persons, and serve. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 301 
 
 604. STEWED CHICKEN WITH MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Cut up the chicken as for stewed chicken with risotto. 
 Melt in a saut^-pan an ounce and a half of butter, put 
 the pieces of chicken in the pan, taking care not to lay 
 one over the other ; sprinkle salt and pepper to taste, and 
 fry for about twenty-five minutes on rather a brisk fire, 
 turning the pieces of meat over when wanted. Mean- 
 while prepare a brown garnish of mushrooms (No. 301). 
 When the chicken is done, dress the pieces on a dish, 
 garnish with the mushrooms, pour the sauce over, and 
 serve with a few cro'fitons. 
 
 605. STEWED CHICKEN, HOUSEWIFE STYLE. 
 
 Cut up a chicken ; shred a middle-sized onion and carrot ; 
 fry these in a stewpan for five minutes with a quarter of 
 a pound of butter, stirring the while with a wooden spoon j 
 add the pieces of chicken, season with salt and pepper, 
 and continue the frying and stirring for another five 
 minutes. Spread four tablespoonfuls of flour; fry for 
 three minutes longer, and moisten with a pint and a half 
 of good stock and four ripe tomatoes cut in quarters ; 
 stir the contents till boiling to prevent burning, and 
 simmer twenty minutes with the lid on. Add half a 
 pound of fresh mushrooms properly cleaned and a table- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley; simmer for another ten 
 minutes; see that the sauce is well seasoned; dish up, 
 and serve. 
 
 606. STEWED CHICKEN A LA CHASSEUR. 
 
 Select a nice tender chicken; draw, singe, and cut it up 
 in the same style as the foregoing; place the pieces in a 
 saut6-pan with two tablespoonfuls of olive-oil and one ounce 
 
302 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 of butter; fry these over a brisk fire for five minutes; 
 sprinkle in two sliq,lots chopped fine; stir the contents 
 over the fire for another five minutes; moisten with half a 
 pint of dry white wine ; add a quarter of a pound of fresh 
 mushrooms- properly cleaned and finely sliced; season with 
 salt, pepper, and two bay-leaves. Continue the stewing for 
 fifteen minutes longer, taking care to turn the meat over 
 as required ; then add a piece of glaze the size of a. nut 
 and a similar quantity of fresh butter ; stir it till properly 
 melted, and when done dish up the pieces of chicken. 
 Squeeze the juice of a lemon and add a teaspoonful of finely 
 chopped parsley to the sauce ; stir it over the fire for a few 
 seconds ; pour it over the chicken, and serve. 
 
 607. FBICASSEE OF CHICKEN. 
 
 Cut up a good chicken as in No. 602 ; drop the pieces 
 into a basin containing two quarts of clear lukewarm 
 water, and let them soak for fifteen minutes; drain and 
 put into a stewpan with one quart of water, an onion with 
 a clove stuck in it, a " bouquet garni," a sliced carrot, and 
 the quarter of a head of celery ; season well with salt and 
 pepper, and boil it ; skim carefully, then simmer for about 
 half an hour with the pan partly covered, when the pieces 
 of chicken will be done. Strain the broth through a 
 colander into a basin and keep it apart ; immerse the 
 pieces of chickfen in cold water and drain them on a clean 
 cloth. Meanwhile stir for five minutes in a stewpan over 
 the fia'e without browning, two ounces of flour, with the same 
 quantity of very fresh butter ; add gradually the chicken 
 broth and the liquor in which half a pint of champignons 
 have boiled for five minutes ; stir the contents well whilst 
 over the fire, so as to work it into a smooth sauce till it 
 boils, when the stewpan must be drawn from the fire ; let 
 it simmer for about half an hour, in order to throw up the 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 303 
 
 scum ; then skim it, and thicken the sauce with the yolks 
 of four eggs, in the usual way ; stir this over the fire until 
 it is nearly boiling, pass it through a tammy or gravy- 
 strainer into the stewpan already containing the pieces 
 of chicken; add to it the cooked champignons and an 
 ounce of butter ; stir this gently over the fire, and when 
 near ebullition dish up the pieces of chicken in the usual 
 manner; pour the sauce over; garnish with the cham- 
 pignons and fried crotitons, and serve. 
 
 608. STEWED CHICKEN A LA PROVEN5ALE. 
 
 Slice two large onions into rings, and fry them in a 
 saut6-pan with half a gill of olive-oil, till of a nice light- 
 brown colour; then add the pieces of a tender chicken, 
 cut as for stewed chicken and risotto ; season with 
 salt and pepper, a few sprigs of parsley, a bay-leaf, and 
 a crushed clove of garlic. Fry these on a brisk fire to 
 a nice brown colour, for about twenty minutes. Mean- 
 while stew for five minutes in a stewpan half a pound 
 of fresh mushrooms and four shalots chopped fine, together 
 with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Moisten the 
 whole with a tablespoonful of salad-oil and a giU. of 
 Madeira wine; then add a gill each of either Espagnqle 
 sauce or good broth and Tomato sauce, and boil ' it. 
 When the pieces of chicken have simmered for twenty 
 minutes, take them out with a fork and put in the stew- 
 pan with the sauce. Simmer together with the Hd on for 
 seven or eight minutes ; dish up the chicken in the usual 
 way ; pour the sauce over, and serve. 
 
 609. STEWED CHICKEN A L'AFRICAINE. 
 
 Cut up a chicken as for stewed chicken and risotto; 
 cut also half a pound of raw ham x)r gammon in slices 
 
304. PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 three inches long by about two wide ; melt two ounces of 
 clarified butter in a Stewpan ; add the pieces of chicken 
 and ham, together with a small " bouquet garni " composed 
 of parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, and a clove of garlic; season 
 with a small pinch of cayenne, and fry it over a good 
 fire till the pieces of chicken have acquired a nice -golden 
 colour ; drain off the fat ; moisten with three parts of a 
 pint of good white stock (veal broth), a gill of French 
 white wine, a small piece of glaze, half a teaspoonful of 
 curry paste, and half a pound of fresh mushrooms properly 
 cleaned and cut in small pieces ; let the contents boil for 
 about fifteen minutes with the pan partly covered ; after 
 which, draw the stewpan away from the fire ; remove the 
 "bouquet garni;" add half an ounce of butter and the 
 juice of half a lemon ;. dish up the pieces of chicken alter- 
 nately with the slices of ham ; pour the sauce over ; decorate 
 the base of the dish with fried croHtons, and serve. 
 
 610. CURRIED CHICKEN. 
 
 Out up a chicken as in the foregoing ; shred and fry an 
 onion in a stewpan with an ounce of butter for about three 
 minutes ; add the pieces of chicken and continue the frying 
 till they are slightly coloured all over ; sprinkle two table- 
 spoonfuls of flour ; season with salt and pepper ; stir over 
 the fire for three minutes longer, and moisten with a pint 
 of good stock and half a tablespoonful of curry paste. 
 Simmer it for about twenty minutes with the pan half 
 covered ; pour the contents of the stewpan into a colander 
 over a basin; clean the stewpan; rub the sauce through 
 a tammy or hair-sieve into the stewpan again. Take up 
 from the colander each piece of chicken, clean and return 
 them to the stewpan with the sauce, and warm them up 
 without boiling. Meanwhile have some rice cooked as for 
 curried rabbit. When the sauce is all but boiling dish 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 305 
 
 up the pieces of chicken ; pour the sauce over, and serve 
 with the boiled rice apart. 
 
 611. STEWED CHICKEN AND MUSSELS. 
 
 Cut up the chicken in small joints as in the foregoing, 
 fry these in a saut6-pan all round to a nice golden colour 
 with two ounces of clarified butter, and season with salt, 
 pepper, and grated nutmeg ; moisten with a pint of veal 
 stock or Espagnole sauce; simmer it for about twenty 
 minutes ; after which, skim off the fat, add two quarts of 
 mussels (No. 306) previously cooked for the purpose ; let 
 it simmer for a few minutes ; squeeze in the juice of half 
 a lemon ; toss the contents, and dish up the pieces of 
 chicken in the usual way; pour the sauce over; garnish 
 round with the mussels and half a dozen croutons fried in 
 butter, and serve. 
 
 Note. — Oysters may be substituted for mussels. 
 
 612. STEWED CHICKEN A LA SICILIENNE. 
 
 Cut a nice and tender chicken in the usual way ; place 
 the pieces in a saut6-pan with an ounce of butter, two 
 ounces of streaky bacon cut in dice, and a shred onion ; 
 fry them to a nice brown on a brisk fire; moisten with 
 either a pint of broth or water ; season with salt, pepper, 
 and a bay-leaf, and let it simmer for about twenty minutes. 
 Meanwhile prepare a Sicilian sauce (No. 211) and a pur^e 
 of chesnuts (No. 237). When the pieces of chicken are 
 well done lay the purte on a dish, dress on this the pieces 
 of chicken and bacon ; pour a little Sicilian sauce over, and 
 serve with the remainder of the sauce apart. 
 
 613. STEWED CHICKEN A LA PI]^MONTAISE. 
 
 Fry with two ounces of butter in a saute-pan the pieces 
 of a chicken (cut as above), with a bay-leaf, a few sprigs 
 
3o6 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 of thyme, and season with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg ; 
 when of a nice colour all over m.oisten with either a pint 
 of Espagnole sauce or good gravy ; simmer it for twenty-five 
 minutes by the side of the fire. Meanwhile make a polenta 
 (No. loo); and when it is well cooked and the pieces of 
 chicken are tender, lay the polenta on a hot dish ; arrange 
 the pieces of chicken in a pyramidal form; reduce the 
 liquor in which the chicken was cooked to a half-glaze, 
 then strain it through a pointed gravy-strainer over the 
 chicken, and serve. 
 
 Note. — A few truffles cut in thin slices and cooked with 
 the chicken will greatly improve this. 
 
 614. FRITOT OF CHICKEN A L'lTALIENNE. 
 After having singed, drawn, and cut a chickeii as for 
 stewed chicken with risotto, marinade the pieces in a 
 basin for three or four hours with half a gill of salad-oil, 
 the juice of half a lemon, salt and pepper, a few sprigs of 
 thyme and parsley, one bay-leaf, and a sliced onion. Then 
 dry them on a cloth, flour them well all over, and fry 
 them in properly heated- fat to a nice golden colour. When 
 done drain the pieces of chicken on a cloth ; dish them 
 up in the usual way ; garnish with fried eggs and croutons, 
 and serve with Italian sauce in a sauce-boat apart. 
 
 615. FBITOT OF CHICKEN A LA MILANAISE. 
 Cut up a chicken as in No. 614; rub each piece with 
 clarified butter, and when well set dip them into some light 
 batter and fry them in the hot fat to a nice golden colour. 
 Meanwhile have some macaroni Milanaise (No. 94) ready, 
 dish it up with the pieces of chicken on the top in a pyra- 
 midal form, and serve with Tomato sauce apart. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 307 
 
 616. CHICKEN WITH DEVILLED SAUCE. 
 Draw and singe a chicken carefully ; then twist the legs 
 neatly through the sides, without, however, tearing' the 
 skin, and- cut it lengthwise through the breast-bone into 
 halves, without separating it at the back ; remove as many 
 bones as possible without interfering with the shape of 
 the chicken j sprinkle -vyith salt" and pepper, rub both sides 
 with clarified butter, and broil them on a moderate fire for 
 eight or ten minutes on each side. When of a nice brown 
 colour and properly done, dish up the chicken with some 
 Devilled sauce (No. 201) poured under, and serve. 
 
 617. BOILED CHICKEN WITH TARRAGON. 
 
 Draw, singe, and trim the feet and wings of a nice 
 chicken ; cut the under part of the thighs close up to the 
 bend of the joint ; loosen the skin all round the thighs by 
 introducing the fingers through the vent, and push the legs 
 inside so that the feet only are seen ; lay the chicken on its 
 breast, twist the pinions round to make them lie even with 
 the back, turn the skin of the breast upon the back, then 
 run a trussing-needle and string through the pinion on 
 the left, and again through its lower joint on through the 
 upper joint of the thigh ; the needle must now be brought 
 round and inserted through the other wing in a similar 
 manner, and the strings drawn tight and fastened. The 
 legs must also be secured by running the needle through 
 the upper part, leaving the drum-sticks under, and pass 
 the needle through the back, then draw and tie the strings, 
 so as to give the chicken a plump appearance ; rub it with 
 half a lemon to keep it white, and place it in a stewpan 
 with a pint and a half of water, an onion with two cloves 
 stuck in it, a small "bouquet garni" (no garlic), salt and 
 pepper to taste, and two or three sprigs of tarragon. Boil, 
 
3o8 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 and simmer very gently for about thirty-five minutes with 
 the lid on, taking care to turn the chicken over after a 
 quarter of an hour's ebullition. When the chicken is done, 
 strain the gravy through a pointed gravy-strainer into a 
 small stewpan ; add a few drops of caramel to give it a 
 rich colour, and set it on the fire to boil fast for about 
 seven minutes, in order to reduce it to a half-glaze. Mean- 
 while untie the chicken, place it on a dish with two or 
 three sprigs of tarragon blanched in boiling water for two 
 minutes, and keep hot. When the sauce has reached its 
 proper consistency pour it over the chicken, and serve. 
 
 Note. — The chicken will eat better if broth is substituted 
 for water. 
 
 618. BOILED CHICKEN WITH ROCK-SALT. 
 
 clean and truss a good chicken as in No. 617; rub it 
 with lemon, and cook it in the same manner. When the 
 broth has been' properly reduced pour it over the chicken ; 
 place a good teaspoonful of rock-salt on the breast, and 
 serve. 
 
 619. BOILED CHICKEN WITH RICE. 
 
 Prepare, truss, and cook a chicken in a quart of broth as 
 in the foregoing. When the chicken is done strain the 
 broth into another stewpan, and keep the chicken hot 
 by the side of the fire. Meanwhile boil half a pound of 
 properly washed rice (see Rice) with the strained broth for 
 about eighteen minutes ; then add a pinch of grated nut- 
 meg, a tablespoonful of grated cheese, and half aii ounce 
 of butter. Mix these well together and pour it over a dish, 
 put the chicken on it, sauce over with about a gill of 
 Btehamel sauce, and serve. 
 
 Note. — If half a pint of the chicken broth is kept apart 
 in a small stewpan after being strained, and then reduced 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 309 
 
 to an essence or half-glaze, it can be substituted for 
 Bechamel sauce. 
 
 620. ROAST CHICKEN. 
 
 It is advisable when about to roast poultry to dip the 
 bird or birds into boiling water for two minutes, in order 
 to open the pores of the skin, which process will make the 
 meat eat very tender and more juicy than otherwise. 
 
 After having .selected a good chicken, drawn, singed, and 
 trussed, for roasting in a similar way as for boiling, but 
 without pushing the legs under the thighs, butter a sheet 
 of paper as well as the breast of the chicken ; fold the sheet 
 of paper over, tie it round with string, and set it to roast 
 before a moderate fire for about thirty-five minutes. When 
 the chicken is done untie the string ; dish up ; strain, and 
 free the gravy from grease ; pour it over the chicken ; 
 garnish round with water-cress, previously sprinkled with 
 salt, pepper, and vinegar, and serve. 
 
 Note. — Rashers of bacon fried and Bread sauce are some- 
 times served with roast chicken. 
 
 621. CHICKEN WITH MAYONNAISE SAUCE. 
 
 This dish is generally made with the remnants of chicken. 
 Cut the cold chicken in pieces ; place on a dish the hearts 
 of a few French lettuces, properly cleaned, dried, and cut 
 in quarters ; keep four of the nicest apart ; dress the pieces 
 of chicken over the salad ; pour sufficient Mayonnaise sauce 
 (No. 219) to cover and coat the chicken; decorate the dish 
 with the four quarters of lettuce and some hard-boiled eggs 
 also cut in quarters ; add, in a similar manner, a few slices 
 of Cooked beetroot cut in fancy shapes, and the fillets of 
 three or four anchovies, properly boned and twisted round 
 the finger, and serve. 
 
310 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 622. CHICKEN WITH TARTARE SAUCE. 
 
 This is prepared in the same style as the foregoing, but 
 substitute Tartare sauce (No. 221) for Mayonnaise. 
 
 623. BOUDINS OF CHICKEN A LA RICHELIEU. 
 
 Make some chicken forcemeat (No. 272), rather stiff; 
 add to it an onion cut in small dice, previously blanched, 
 drained, and fried in plenty of butter for about eight 
 minutes without colouring ; then butter some strips of 
 kitchen paper four inches long by two and a half wide; 
 lay on these lengthwise_ about three inches of forcemeat 
 one inch and a half wide, and the same measurement 
 in thickness, and with a teaspoon make a hollow in the 
 centre of each boudin about three inches long by half an 
 inch deep and one inch wide ; fill these up with a salpioon 
 h la financifere (No. 310), but mixed with a well-reduced 
 Allemande sauce instead of Financifere sauce, and cover the 
 salpicon of each boudin with chicken forcemeat again, so 
 as to hide it completely. Then poach them gently in a 
 saut6-pan with broth for about fifteen minutes ; after 
 which, take them out carefully with a flat skimmer, lay 
 them on a clean cloth to drain, remove the paper if still 
 attached to them, dish up the boudins in a circle, and serve 
 with a well-reduced Bspagnole sauce poured under them. 
 
 Note. — Boudins of chicken can also be served with 
 salpicon k I'ltalienne (No. 307), k la Valenciennes (No. 
 316), or with either a pur^e of fresh mushrooms or truffles. 
 
 624. QUENELLES OF CHICKEN A LA TOULOUSE. 
 Prepare some chicken forcemeat (No. 271), sprinkle 
 some flour on the slab or board, and spread the forcemeat 
 on this, to the thickness of about an inch, with the blade 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 311 
 
 of a knife dipped in boiling water ; sprinkle a little flour 
 over, and divide the layer in strips four inches long by 
 one inch and a half wide ; roll' these slightly with the 
 fingers, so as to give them an oblong shape, then place the 
 quenelles in rows in a buttered saut6-pan about an inch 
 apart ; pour some boiling broth gently oy the side, so as to 
 cover them, and simmer for about ten minutes. When 
 done remove them carefully with a flat skimmer, and 
 drain them on a clean cloth ; dish up the quenelles in 
 a circle, fill up the centre with salpicon k la Toulouse 
 (No. 311), but not chopped so fine, and well-diluted with 
 Velout6 sauce (No. 153), and serve. 
 
 Note. — Quenelles of chicken are always made and poached 
 in the same way, but can be served in different styles, such 
 as a ritalienne (No. 307), k la Royale (No. 309), a la 
 financiere (310), or any other salpicon, provided these 
 are properly diluted with their respective sauce, and the 
 ingredients are not chopped so fine as for salpicon. These 
 are usually known under the name of " Eagout," but in 
 order to simplify matters as much as possible, I give them 
 under the same heading, being prepared m the same man- 
 ner, but, as already mentioned, not minced so fine. 
 
 625. CHICKEN PANCAKES. 
 
 Prepare and keep warm in a stewpan some salpicon a la 
 financifere (No. 310), mixed with a well-reduced Allemande 
 or Bechamel sauce instead of fihaneifere. 
 
 Fry the number of pancakes required (see Pancakes); 
 lay on each two tablespoonfuls of the chicken salpicon ; 
 turn and roll both sides of the pancake over, so as to 
 enclose the mixture ; cut these across in half ; dish them 
 up in the form of a pyramid, and serve garnished round 
 with fried parsley. 
 
312 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 626. CAPON A LA NAPOLITAINE. 
 
 Boil for fifteen minutes one pound of macaroni, then 
 strain the water through a colander, cut the macaroni in 
 three-inch lengths, and put them in a stewpan with an 
 ounce and a half of fresh butter and one ouncs of grated 
 parmesan cheese. Toss up the contents over the fire for a 
 few minutes and draw it away. Meanwhile have a nice 
 capon properly singed ; clip the claws ; cut off the neck close 
 to the back, but leave as much of the crop-skin as possible ; 
 draw the entrails, &&, through an incision made at the 
 back of the neck ; then with a strong-bladed knife remove 
 the angular part of the breast-bone, without, however, 
 tearing the breast or cutting the fillets ; stufE the capon 
 with the cooked macaroni ; draw the skin of the crop at 
 the back so as to close up the paunch, and with a small 
 trussing-needle and twine sew it up, and fasten both ends 
 of the twine to the back of the capon ; then truss the 
 capon for roasting, dip it in boiling water for two minutes, 
 dry it all round, and wrap it up in a well-buttered sheet of 
 paper; tie this round with string, and roast it before a 
 moderate fire for about fifty minutes, taking care to baste 
 it three or four times. When done remove the paper and 
 string ; . dish up ; pour some rich gravy, properly strained, 
 over, and serve. 
 
 627. CAPON A LA PIISmONTAISE. 
 
 Prepare a capon in a similar manner as the foregoing ; 
 roast and peel a pound and a half of nice chesnuts, put 
 them in a basin with half a pound of sausage meat ; season 
 with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a good pinch of allspice. 
 Moisten with a. gill of broth or Madeira wine. Mix the lot 
 well together ; fill up the, capon with it ; when properly 
 stuffed and trussed dip it in boiling water for two minutes ; 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 313 
 
 dry, butter, arid wrap it up in the same manner as in No. 
 627 j roast it before a moderate but even fire for about fifty 
 minutes, and when done dish it up in the same way, and 
 serve with some good gravy poured over. 
 
 628. CAPON A LA LUCULLUS. 
 
 Draw, singe, and prepare a capon as previously described 
 for capon k la Napolitaine ; then cut in small slices one pound 
 of clean calf's liver and half a pound of fat bacon ; fry 
 these in a stewpan for a few minutes with an ounce of 
 butter ; moisten with a gill of Marsala. Season with salt, 
 nutmeg, spice, and the peel of a pound of trufiles ; simmer 
 for seven minutes ; let it get cold and pound it in a mortar ; 
 then add the peeled truffles cut the size of small nuts ; 
 mix the whole well together and stuff the capon with it ; 
 truss it in the usual way ; dip it for two minutes in boiling 
 water ; dry, and lay a slice of fat bacon over the breast ; 
 wrap up the capon with a sheet of buttered paper, and 
 roast it before an even fire for about an hour. Meanwhile 
 prepare a risotto k I'ltalienne (No. 109). When the capon 
 is ready dish it up, place the risotto in tablespoonfuls as 
 a garnish round it, and serve with a rich gravy, to which 
 a little essence of truffles has been added, in a sauce-boat 
 apart. 
 
 Note. — It is advisable, when time permits, to stuff a 
 capon two or three days before it is wanted, and keep it 
 in a cool place. 
 
 629. CAPON. CITIZEN STYLE. 
 
 Mince fine half a pound of beef kidney fat ; mix it with 
 three handfuls of bread-crumbs, three tablespoonfuls of 
 fine herbs (No. ipSa), the yolks of two eggs properly 
 beaten, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste ; stir all 
 well together, and with it stuff a capon, previously pre- 
 
314 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 pared for that purpose, as in the foregoing ; truss it in 
 the usual way ; dip it in boiling water for two minutes j 
 dry it, and lay a good slice of fat bacon over the breast ; 
 wrap it in a well-buttered sheet of paper, and roast it 
 before an even fire for about an hour. Meanwhile cook 
 separately, in salt water, , a few potatoes cut m shape of 
 crescents, cauliflower, beans, and peas. When the capon 
 is properly cooked take it from the fire, remove the paper 
 and string, dish it up and garnish it with the cooked vege- 
 tables placed separately around ; pour some good gravy 
 under, and serve with Butter sauce in a boat apart. 
 
 630. BOILED CAPON AND RICE. 
 
 This is done in the same manner as boiled chicken and 
 lice (see No. 619). 
 
 63L BOILED CAPON AND TARRAGON. 
 
 Prepare and boil a capon in the same style as boiled 
 chicken and tarragon, and serve it with boiled pickled 
 ox-tongue apart. 
 
 632. BRAIZED CAPON A LA MILANAISE. 
 Singe, draw, and truss a capon as previously described. 
 Cut one pound of truffles into pieces the size of a broad- 
 bean ; after having peeled them pound the trimmings with 
 one pound of fat oacon, season with salt, pepper, grated 
 nutmeg, a chopped bay-leaf, and thyme ; mix this together 
 with the truffles in a stewpan and simmer gently for about 
 ten minutes, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon. 
 Moisten with a gUl of good gravy and continue stirring 
 and simmering for another ten minutes ; let the mixture 
 get cold; then stuff the capon with itj fasten the crop- 
 skin, and truss the bird as for boiling ; let it remain thus. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 315 
 
 if possible, in a cool place for two days, when the flavour 
 of the truffles will have penetrated well into the flesh. 
 "When wanted, prepare four or five dozen ravioli (No. 97). 
 Set the capon in a stewpan with enough good broth to 
 cover the pinions, simmer very gently for about an hour 
 and a quarter, taking care to turn it over after three- 
 quarters of an hour's cooking. When properly done remove 
 the string ; dish up ; garnish round with the ravioli ; re- 
 dvtce the gravy to a half-glaze by sharp boiling; strain 
 it, and serve it in a sauce-boat, with the capon and rivioli. 
 Poulardes are cooked and dressed in every way as 
 capons. 
 
 633. BRAIZED DUCK WITH STEWED PEAS. 
 
 Select a young and tender duck, singe, draw, and truss 
 it as for roasting ; put it in a stewpan with an onion with 
 two cloves stuck in it, one carrot, and a small " bouquet 
 garni." Moisten with a pint of good broth, season with 
 salt and pepper, and simmer it very gently with the lid on 
 for about an hour and a quarter, taking' care to turn the 
 bird after forty minutes' cooking. Meanwhile prepare a 
 garnish of middle-sized peas (No. 286). When the duck 
 is well done take it out of the. pan, remove the string, dish 
 it up with the peas, strain the gravy; skim off all the 
 grease, reduce it over a brisk fire if necessary ; pour it 
 on the duck, and serve. 
 
 634, BRAIZED DUCK WITH GREEN PEAS. 
 
 Prepare a duck as described ; put it in a stewpan with 
 an ounce of butter ; fry for about ten minutes, turning it 
 round to ensure an even colouring ; take it out and place 
 it on a dish ; then fry to a light-brown colour half a pound 
 of streaky bacon free from rind and gristle and cut one 
 inch square; sprinkle over these an ounce of flour; con- 
 
3i6 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 tinue to fry and' stir the contents with a wooden spoon for 
 three minutes longer; then moisten with a pint of good 
 stock, add an onion with two cloves stuck in it, a "bouquet 
 garni," salt and pepper to taste ; stir till boiling. Then put 
 in the duck, together with a quart of medium-sized green 
 peas ; simmer very gently with the pan partly covered for 
 about an hour and a quarter, taking care to turn the duck 
 after thirty minutes' simmering. When done remove the 
 " bouquet garni " and onion ; put the bird on a plate, skim 
 off very carefully all the grease from the peas ; dish these 
 up with the bacon ; untie the. duck and place it in the 
 centre of the dish ; pour the gravy over, and serve. 
 
 635. DUCK WITH TURNIPS. 
 
 After having prepared a duck as above, fry it in a stew- 
 pan with an ounce of butter to a nice golden colour all 
 round ; then take it out and sprinkle three tablespoonf uls 
 of flour in the same stewpan ; stir this over the fire for 
 about three minutes ; moisten it with a pint and a half 
 of good broth ; boil it, stirring the while to prevent burn- 
 ing ; put in the duck, together with a small " bouquet 
 garni," an onion stuck with two cloves, and season with 
 salt and pepper, and simmer gently with the pan partly 
 covered for about fifty minutes. Meanwhile peel and cut 
 a pound of nice tender turnips into fancy shapes, such as 
 half-moons and olives, add these to the duck and continue 
 the simmering till they are done ; remove the " bouquet 
 garni" and onion. Dish up the bird in the usual way; 
 garnish round with the turnips ; skim off all the grease 
 from the sauce, pour it over the duck, and serve. 
 
 636. BRAIZED DUCK WITH STEWED OLIVES. 
 
 Prepare and braize a duck as in No. 635. Meanwhile 
 stone a piat of nice French olives; stew these with the 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 317 
 
 duck for six or seven minutes; dish up the bird, after 
 having removed the string ; garnish round with the olives ; 
 skim off very carefully all the grease from the gravy; 
 squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, pour this over the 
 duck, and serve. 
 
 637. BRAIZED DUCK WITH CABBAGE. 
 
 Out, clean, and blanch in salt water for five minutes a 
 nice savoy cabbage. Meanwhile have ready trussed in the 
 usual way a good duck, which place in a stewpan with a pint 
 and a half of good stock, an onion stuck with three cloves, and 
 a carrot ; cover this with the cabbage properly strained ; add 
 half a pound of Bologna sausage and the same quantity 
 of steaky bacon ; season with salt and pepper ; set to simmer 
 very gently, with the pan covered, for about an hour ; after 
 which, remove the lid, place the stewpan in the oven for 
 iifteen minutes, to finish cooking and brown the cabbage; 
 then take out the bird, remove the string, take the carrot 
 and onion away, put the bacon and sausage on a plate, and 
 strain the liquor through a colander into a small stewpan ; 
 press the cabbage well ; dish it up with the duck and keep 
 hot by the side of the oven. Meanwhile skim off the fat 
 from the gravy, reduce it to a half-glaze on a brisk fire, 
 pour it over the duck aixd cabbage, cut the sausage and 
 bacon into slices, decorate the dish alternately with it, and 
 serve. 
 
 638. ROAST DUCK. 
 
 Slice a pound of onions and mix them with eighteen 
 sage-leaves, blanch in salt water for five minutes, then 
 drain and chop them fine ; fry them in a stewpan with an 
 ounce of butter well seasoned with salt, pepper, and grated 
 nutmeg for about ten minutes, stirring the while with a 
 wooden spoon; then add an ounce of ' bread-crumbs, and 
 
3i8 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 stir the mixture over the fire for two or three minutes 
 longer. When cool stuff the duck with it ; truss the duck 
 in the usual way ; dip it in boiling water for two minutes ; 
 dry, and set it to roast before a brisk fire for twenty 
 minutes. When done, untie the string; dish up, pour 
 under some rich gravy free from fat, and serve. 
 
 639. ROAST GOOSE. 
 
 Having selected a fine fat goose, draw and singe it as 
 previously described for capon d la Napolitaine; then 
 stuff it with one pound and a half of onions, two dozen 
 green sage-leaves, the goose-liver, and two ounces of bread- 
 crumbs, the whotfe. prepared in a similar manner to the 
 stuffing as for r^ast chicks When the goose is thus pro- 
 perly stuffed truss it in thi^ usual way -for roasting, and. 
 then dip it in boiling water), dry it. and set it before an 
 even fire to roast for about aHv-bwtff and a half, according 
 to size, taking care to frequently^, baste it. When the goose 
 is well cooked take it away from the fire, remove the string, 
 dish up, pour some rich brown gra'vy under, and serve with 
 Apple sauce (No. i8i) in a sauce-boat apart. 
 
 640. ROAST GOOSE STUFFED WITH CHESNUTS. 
 Prepare a goose as in the previous number ; cut the liver 
 into small dice, and chop up fine two onions and fry these 
 with about an ounce of chopped fat bacon for seven or eight 
 minutes. Meanwhile prepare a garnish of chesnuts (No. 
 278) ; add the stuffing to it, season it with salt, pepper, and 
 nutmeg, mix the lot well together, and stuff the goose with 
 it ; then ti-uss in the usual way, dip in boiling water, and 
 set it to roagt before an even fire for about an hour and a 
 quarter, taking care to often baste it. When the goose is 
 ready dish it up as usual, pour some good brown gravy 
 under it, and serve. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 319 
 
 641. GOOSE A LA NAVARRAISE. 
 
 Chop fine one pound of veal cushion, free from skin and 
 gristle, half a pound of fat bacon, the goose-Hver, an onion, 
 a clove of garlic, and a few sprigs of parsley ; fry these in 
 a stewpan with an ounce of butter for ten minutes ; season 
 with salt, pepper, and allspice ; add four ounces of cooked 
 rice ; mix the whole well together and let it cool. Mean- 
 while prepare a fat goose as previously described for 
 braizing (see Capon Napolitaine), and as soon as the mix- 
 ture is set, stuff the goose with it; truss it afterwards in 
 the usual way for boiling ; place it in an oval braize-pan 
 with two ounces of butter, two bay-leaves, and a shred 
 oliion ; fry till the goose is nicely coloured all round, then 
 moisten with a quart of ordinary stock or water and a 
 gUl of vinegar, season with salt and pepper, and set it to 
 simmer gently, with the pan partly covered, for about an 
 hour and a half, taking care to turn the goose over once, 
 and baste it often. Add gradually more broth if necessary. 
 When the goose is properly braized take it out of the pan 
 and keep it hot ; strain the broth through a gravy- strainer 
 into another stewpan containing a thick half-cooked risotto; 
 stir this on the fire and complete its cooking ; then dish it 
 up, place the goose in the centre, and serve with a good 
 gravy in a sauce-boat apart. 
 
 642. GOOSE A L'ALLEMANDE. 
 
 Prepare a garnish of sauerkraut (No. 297) without bacon 
 or sausage. When this has boiled four hours add a goose 
 properly singed, drawn, and trussed for boiling, together 
 with half a pound of streaky bacon and the same quan- 
 tity of Frankfort sausages ; cover the stewpan closely and 
 simmer for at least two hours, taking care, however, to 
 remove the bacon and sausages when done, which will be 
 
320 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 in about forty minutes. Cut the bacon in squares two and 
 a quarter inches thick, and cut the sausages in the same 
 style ; keep these hot in a little broth till wanted. When 
 the goose is cooked . remove it from the pan, untie the 
 string ; strain and press the sauerkraut in a colander ; dish 
 it up; put the goose in the centre; garnish round alter- 
 nately with the sausage and bacon, and serve, 
 
 643. STEWED GOOSE WITH TOMATOES. 
 
 Draw, singe, and cut. a goose into sixteen parts (see 
 stewed chicken with risotto), bone these as much as possible, 
 then place them nicely in a large well-buttered saut6-pan 
 with two ounces of clarified butter, half a pound of chopped 
 fat bacon, two chopped onions, and a tablespoonful of 
 chopped parsley ; season with salt and pepper ; fry the lot 
 over a brisk fire till the pieces of goose are nicely coloured 
 all round, then moisten with a pint and a half of broth 
 add six nice ripe tomatoes, previously peeled and cut in 
 slices ; simmer till well done ; then dish up the pieces of 
 goose in the same style as chicken marengo, pour the 
 sauce round, and serve. 
 
 644. BRAIZED TURKEY A L'lTALIENNE. 
 
 For this dish select a fine young turkey weighing about 
 eight pounds, trim, singe, and draw it in the same style as 
 capon k la Napolitaine ; sew up the vent-opening; cut 
 off the feet, scald the legs in order to divest them of their 
 black skin, and remove the angular breast-bone ; then make 
 a risotto k I'ltalienne (No. no) with one quart of rice, for 
 which use the giblets of the turkey. When the risotto has 
 cooled down a little, stuff the turkey with it, draw up the 
 crop-skin and sew it carefully, as described for capon k la 
 Napolitaine. Truss it as for braizing, then place it in an 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 321 
 
 oval braizing- pan with enough stock to cover the pinions ; 
 add two onions, each stuck with two cloves, and one head 
 of celery; season with salt and pepper; boil, and then 
 simmer with the pan partly covered for two hours, taking 
 care to often baste the bird, and turn it over after an hour's 
 simmering. When done, take out the turkey and put it 
 with half a pint of its liquor on a baking-dish in the oven 
 for ten minutes to glaze. Meanwhile strain a pint of the 
 broth through. a tammy into a small stewpan, reduce it by 
 sharply boiling over the fire, and when the turkey has been 
 glazed, dish it up with its gravy free from fat, and serve 
 with the reduced sauce apart. 
 
 645. BRAIZED TURKEY A LA JARDINIERE. 
 
 Prepare' a nice fat turkey as in the foregoing, without 
 stuffing ; truss for braizing ; cover with thin slices of fat 
 bacon, and wrap in a well-buttered sheet of paper ; place 
 it in a stewpan with a carrot, one head of celery, two 
 onions, each stuck with two cloves, a " bouquet garni," and 
 enough stock to cover the paper; season with salt and 
 pepper ; boil, and then simmer very gently for two hours 
 with the pan partly covered. In the meantime prepare 
 separately a garnish a la jardiniere, composed of a quarter 
 of a pound of French beans (No. 290), four ounces of cauli- 
 flower-head (No. 292), four ounces of asparagus-points 
 (No. 287), four ounces of turnips (No. 284), and four 
 ounces of carrots (No. 283) tui-ned into small pear-shaped 
 pieces. Having cooked them separately, mix the lot well 
 together by tossing in a saute-pan, and keep hot. 
 
 When the turkey is properly cooked, remove the string, 
 paper, and bacon; dish it up, garnish round with the 
 vegetables and serve, with Bechamel sauce (No. 154) in a 
 sauce-boat apart. The gravy must be strained and put by 
 for use. 
 
 X 
 
322 
 
 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 646. BOILED TURKEY WITH CELERY. 
 
 Prepare and draw a nice ten-turkey as in the previous 
 number, stuff it with veal or sausage-meat stuffing, and 
 truss it for boiling. Put it in an oval braizing-pan with 
 enough white stock to cover it ; add a carrot, an onion stuck 
 with two cloves, one head of celery, and a " bouquet garni." 
 Boil it, and simmer gently for two hours. Meanwhile 
 prepare a garnish of celery (No. 283), and when the turkey 
 is properly cooked remove the string, dish it up, garnish 
 round with celery, pour the Celery sauce over the turkey, 
 and serve. 
 
 647. BOILED TURKEY WITH OYSTER SAUCE. 
 Prepare, stuff and boil a turkey as directed for boiled 
 turkey with celery, and when ready dish it up and garnish 
 with Oyster sauce (No. 186) before serving. 
 
 648. ROAST TURKEY A LA PI^MONTAISE. 
 Draw and singe a nice young turkey as described for 
 turkey k I'ltalienne ; prepare one pound of either veal 
 or sausage-meat, put it in a large basin with two pounds 
 of well-roasted and peeled chesnuts ; moisten with half a 
 pint of broth ; season well with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and 
 allspice; mix well together, and stuff the turkey with it. 
 Sow up the paunch, truss the bird for roasting ; dip it in 
 boiling water for two or three minutes ; wipe it dry ; lay 
 a thin slice of fat bacon over the breast ; wrap up the bird 
 in a well-<buttered sheet of paper, tie it with string, and 
 set it to roast before a nice even fire for about two hours, 
 according to size, taking care to baste it often. When the 
 turkey is cooked, dish it up, after having removed the 
 paper and string, and serve with good gravy free from 
 fat. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 323 
 
 649. ROAST TURKEY A LA NAPOLITAINE. 
 
 Prepare a turkey as in the previous number. Boil two 
 posads of macaroni in the usual way for fifteen minutes, 
 strain the water through a colander, cut the macaroni 
 in three-inch lengths, and put them into a stewpan with 
 three ounces of butter, two ounces of grated parmesan 
 cheese, two pinches of pepper, and one of nutmeg. Shake 
 this up over the fire till the cheese is properly melted and 
 mixed, and then with a spoon stuff the turkey with it; 
 sew up the breast-skin ; truss the bird for roasting, dip it 
 in boiling water, dry, butter it well all round, wrap it in a 
 buttered sheet of paper, tied on with string, and then roast 
 it before a good even fire for about two hours, frequently 
 basting it. When done, remove the turkey from the fire, 
 untie the string and paper, dish up, strain and skim off 
 the gravy, pour it over the turkej', and serve. 
 
 650, ROAST TURKEY STUFFED WITH TRUFFLES. 
 
 For this purpose a fine young turkey should be stuffed 
 at least two days previous to being cooked, and kept in a 
 cool place during that time, for the same reason as already 
 stated for braized '"capon k la Milanaise. Peel two pounds 
 of truffles, cut these into size of broad-beans and put them 
 in a large basin, pound the trimmings in a mortar and 
 add them to the truffles, together with two pounds of sau- 
 sage-meat and half a pound of minced pickled cooked ox- 
 tongue. Season with salt, nutmeg, a little pounded mace, 
 and thyme ; moisten with a gill of Madeira ; mix well 
 together, and stuff the turkey with it. Draw the crop-skin 
 to the back and sew it up in the usual way, and truss it 
 for roasting. When wanted, dip it in boiling water ; dry 
 it, and lay a large thin slice of fat bacon over the breast ; 
 wrap it up in a well-buttered sheet of paper ; tie it round 
 
324 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 and roast it before a good even fire for two hours, taking 
 care to baste it frequently. When done, take it from the 
 fire, remove the paper and string, strain and skim the 
 gravy, dish up the turkey, pour the gravy over, and serve. 
 
 661. TURKEY'S GIBLETS, HOUSEWIFE STYLE. 
 
 Clean and singe the giblets of a turkey, blanch the lot 
 in boiling salt water for three minutes, then cut each — the 
 gizzard and neck — in four, and the pinions in two ; cut also 
 the liver in four, and put it on a plate apart. Fry to a, 
 light-brown colour, in a stewpan with one ounce of butter, 
 about six ounces of streaky bacon, cut in inch-dice, free 
 from rind and gristle ; then take these out, and fry the 
 giblets for ten or twelve minutes on a biisk fire, taking 
 care that the pieces are not laid one over the other. After 
 which, sprinkle over a tablespoonful of flour ; continue the 
 frying for about three minutes longer; stir with a wooden 
 spoon ; moisten with a pint and a half of stock or water ; 
 season with salt and pepper ; add a " bouquet garni," and 
 boil and simmer for three-quarters of an hour, with the 
 pan partly covered. In the meantime peel and cut into 
 half moons one pound of turnips, fry these in a stewpan 
 to a nice golden colour, with an ounce of butter, and put 
 them on a plate; peel and fry also cne dozen button 
 onions, and add them to the turnips ; then peel two 
 pounds of potatoes to an egg-shape. When the giblets 
 have simmered three-quarters of an hour, add tjie bacon, 
 turnips, onions, and potatoes, and simmer for twenty 
 minute.s longer ; then add the liver, previously fried for 
 two or three minutes ; boil again gently for another ten 
 or twelve minutes, and draw the pan away from the fire, 
 remove the 'f bouquet garni," and skim off carefully all the 
 grease and scum ; dish up the giblets in the centre ; pour 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 325 
 
 the vegetables and sauce over, sprinkle the lot with a tea- 
 spoonful of chopped and blanched parsley, and serve. 
 
 652. STEWED PIGEONS WITH GREEN PEAS. 
 
 Select three nice house-pigeons; pick, draw, and singe 
 them as chickens ; return the liver to the inside of the 
 birds ; cut off the necks, and truss for braizing (see 
 Boiled Chicken with Tarragon). Kemove the rind of half 
 fi pound of streaky bacon, cut it in inch-dice, fry these to 
 a nice brown colour in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, 
 and take them out ; put in the pigeons in their stead, and 
 fry them to a golden colour all round over a brisk fire ; 
 then put them aside with the bacon ; sprinkle in the same 
 stewpan two tablespoon fuls of flour, and stir this with a 
 wooden spoon over the fire for three or four minutes ; 
 moisten with one and a half pint of good broth, season 
 with salt and pepper, and boil, and stir it to prevent 
 burning. Then add the pigeons, together with the bacon, 
 a " bouquet garni," and a quart of fresh shelled green peas ; 
 simmer gently, with the pan partly covered, for about half 
 an hour or thirty- five minutes ; then remove the string 
 from the birds, take the " bouquet " out, skim all the 
 scum and grease off the peas and bacon, povir these on a 
 dish, put the pigeons in the centre, and serve. 
 
 653. STEWED PIGEONS WITH MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Prepare, truss, and cook three pigeons as above, but 
 instead of green peas substitute two dozen button onions, 
 previously blanched and browned in butter, together with 
 one pint of nicely turned champignons also blanched. in 
 their liquor, and the whole added to the sauce with the 
 bacon, pigeons, and " bouquet garni." Season tho mixture 
 in the usual way, and simmer gently for thirty- five 
 
326 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 miautes ; then remove the pigeons, untie the string, and 
 dish them up ; take the " bouquet " out ; skim oft all fat 
 and scum; garnish the pigeons round with the onions, 
 mushrooms, and bacon, pour the sauce over, and serve. 
 
 654. PIGEON CUTLETS WITH MACJ^DOINE. 
 
 Select three young and fat pigeons, cut these lengthwise 
 in half, remove the wings and part of the breast-bones, 
 tuck the leg-bones inside, season well with salt and pepper, 
 and fry the halves or cutlets in a saut4pan on a brisk fire, 
 with two ounces of butter, for fifteen minutes. Take them 
 out and press them between two dishes till cold ; after which, 
 turn each cutlet into a nice form, and dip them in melted 
 butter and bread-crumb them ; broil them over a slow fire 
 till of a golden colour, and then dish them up in a circle, 
 fill the centre with a garnish of macedoine (No. 281), and 
 serve. 
 
 655. PIGEONS A LA CRAPAUDINE. 
 
 Take three nice young pigeons, properly drawn and 
 singed, and cut them lengthwise across the breast, with- 
 out separating them at the back; flatten them with the 
 cutlet-bat and remove the bones from the legs and breasts ; 
 put these in a saut6-pan with one and a half ounce of 
 butter, season with salt and pepper, and fry them for 
 fifteen minutes over a brisk fire ; then put them between 
 two-baking tins and press with a four-pound weight at 
 the top. In the meantinie chop fine, two shalots, and fry 
 them in the same saucepan for a few minutes ; then add 
 half a pint of good stock, half a gill of vinegar, one tea- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley ; season with salt and pepper ; 
 boil it, and reduce it by half; then squeeze the juice of 
 a lemon in it. When the pigeons are quite cold, dip them 
 in half an ounce of melted butter and bread-crumb them ; 
 after which, broil them over a clear fire to a nice golden 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 327 
 
 colour on both sides, strain the sauce through a pointed 
 strainer over a dish, put the pigeons on it, and serve. 
 
 656. ROAST PIGEONS. 
 
 Draw and singe three young pigeons as above and truss 
 them for roasting; cover the breast of each bird with a 
 thin shoe of fat bacon, tie on with string, and set the 
 birds to roast before a good fire for fifteen minutes. When 
 done take them from the fire and remove the string; dish 
 up the pigeons with the bacon on the breasts; pour the 
 gravy under ; garnish round with watercress, previously 
 seasoned with salt, pepper, and vinegar, and serve. 
 
 Note. — Wild pigeons should always be roasted. 
 
 657. GUINEA-FOWL, HOUSEWIFE STYLE. 
 
 Pick, draw, singe, and cut in pieces two young guinea- 
 fowls as for stewed chicken and risotto; put the pieces 
 in a stewpan with three ounces of butter and fry them 
 over a brisk fire to a nice brown all over ; then moisten 
 with a gill of sherry and simmer for five minutes ; add half 
 a pint of broth, salt and pepper to taste, and half a pound 
 of fresh mushrooms cut in slices ; then simmer till the 
 pieces of fowl are tender, and sprinkle in a tablespoonful 
 of finely chopped parsley and squeeze in the juice of a 
 lemon, toss up the whole whilst over the fir^ and dish it 
 up in the same style as stewed chicken, pour the sauce 
 over, and serve. 
 
 658. ROAST GUINEA-FOWL. 
 
 Draw, singe, and truss two guinea-fowls for roasting ; cut 
 six ounces of fat bacon in small strips of an inch and a half 
 long, and lard the breasts with a larding-needle ; wrap each 
 fowl in a well- buttered paper, and tie this with string ; then 
 set the birds to roast before an even fire for about half an 
 
328 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 hour, and baste them twice ; remove the paper, and continue 
 roasting for eight or ten minutes, or till the strips of bacon 
 are nicely coloured, without, however, letting them get too 
 brown. When done take them from the fire, remove the 
 string, dish them up with their gravy nicely strained and 
 skimmed, and garnish with watercress, seasoned as de- 
 scribed for roast pigeons, and serve. 
 
 Note. — Guinea-fowls are poultry, although very often 
 served as a substitute for game, on account of their dark- 
 coloured flesh. 
 
 659. ROAST CYGNET. 
 
 Cygnet should only be eaten in September; after that 
 month they get tough. 
 
 Clean, draw, and singe a cygnet in the same style as a 
 goose. Chop fine tvyo pounds of beef -steak; season with 
 three chopped shalots, two pinches of grated nutmeg, two 
 of pepper, and a teaspoonful of salt, and moisten with a 
 gill of broth. Stuff the cygnet with this in the usual way 
 and truss it for roasting ; lay on the breast two nice slices 
 of fat bacon, and wrap it in two sheets of well-buttered 
 paper; roast it before a clear fire for about three hours/ 
 during which time it must be frequently basted. When 
 done, serve it with a rich gravy. 
 
 660. ROAST PEA-FOWL. 
 
 Pea-fowls are seldom cooked now, though young birds 
 when fat and full in the flesh are very good roasted ; but 
 they should first be larded over the breast and thighs and 
 put to marinade for a day in a pint of white wine, some 
 aromatic herbs, salt, pepper, cloves, a blade of mace, and a 
 slice of gammon ; they should then be roasted in a similar 
 manner to cygnet, and served with a sharp or devilled 
 sauce mixed with the gravy of roast fowl and garnished 
 with seasoned watercress. 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 
 REMARKS/ ON GAME. 
 
 The markets of this country are generally well supplied 
 with game, and such birds as pheasants, partridges, grouse, 
 snipes, and wild-fowl are always plentiful in season. 
 
 Pheasants when young have very small spurs, and the 
 tenderness of the flesh is ascertained by pressing the 
 pinions. 
 
 Wild-duck, widgeon, teal, and other water-fowl are 
 selected in a similar manner. 
 
 Woodcock are also selected by trying the pinions and 
 breast. 
 
 Partridges and grouse are tested in the same way, but 
 their age can be ascertained by carefully examining the 
 long feathers of the wingj those round at the tip belong 
 to old birds, the pointed ones to young. 
 
 The high flavour and peculiar delicacy of game, when 
 hung properly, is superior to that of all other animal food. 
 Pheasants cooked within three days of being killed have 
 none of their characteristic taste, and will simply eat as 
 chicken ; but if hung for twelve or fifteen days in a cool 
 place", the pleasant and agreeable aroma so much appreciated 
 by epicures is fully imparted to the flesh. To obtain this the 
 colour of the lower part of the birds should be of a dark- 
 green before cooking. Should they, however, be found too 
 high or even putrefied, do not on that account throw them 
 away, as the following recipe (like many others given in 
 
330 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 this work, but very little known) Will remove all unpleasant 
 taste and flavour from any game : — 
 
 Wash the birds that may be full of maggots, &c., first in 
 vinegar, then soak them in cold milk for half an hour, and 
 then let them be wiped and cooked in the usual way, when 
 they will eat to perfection. 
 
 661. SALMI OF PHEASANTS. 
 
 Roast two hen-pheasants, and when cold remove the 
 legs and cut off the drum-sticks ; then cut the fillets with 
 the pinion-bones attached to them, separate the breast 
 from the back, trim them both and cut them crosswise 
 into halves and put these pieces in a stewpan. Pound in a 
 mortar the drum-sticks and trimmings, and mix this purte 
 with some Salmis sauce (No. 199), previously prepared; 
 stir the contents well together, pour it over the pieces 
 of pheasant, and warm it gradually without boiling. When 
 ready squeeze in the juice of ialf a lemon, stir, and dish 
 it up as a fricassee of chicken ; pour the sauce over, 
 garnish round with fried croutons, and serve. 
 
 Note. — A few button mushrooms and slices of trufiles, 
 previously cooked with the Salmis sauce, will greatly im- 
 prove this dish. 
 
 662. PHEASANT, HOUSEWIFE STYLE. 
 Draw and truss for braizing two nice pheasants, fry 
 them on a brisk fixe in a stewpan with two ounces of 
 butter, two ounces of fat bacon, a shred union, carrot, and 
 half a head of celery, and season with salt, pepper, and a 
 bay-leaf. When of a nice golden colour all over, moisten 
 with a pint and a half of water, set to simmer for about 
 thirty-five minutes, with the pan partly covered, taking 
 care to frequently baste them with their own liquor, and 
 to turn them over once. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 331 
 
 In the meantime prepare a thick risotto, and when the 
 pheasants are properly cooked place them on a hot dish, 
 strain and skim off the fat from their liquor and add it to 
 the risotto, stir this well together, and when ready dish it 
 up, put the pheasants on the top, and serve with some 
 good gravy in a sauce-hoat apart. 
 
 663. PHEASANTS A LA NAPOLITAINE. 
 
 Select and draw two nice young pheasants; lard the 
 breasts in the usual way with small strips of fat bacon ; 
 wrap them in well-buttered paper, and set them to roast 
 before a moderate fire for twenty-five minutes, taking 
 special care to baste them frequently with clarified butter ; 
 after which, remove the paper from the birds and roast 
 them ten minutes longer ; baste again two or three times, 
 and see that the strips of bacon do not colour too much. 
 Meanwhile prepare some macaroni Italienne (No. 89), and 
 when ready, and the pheasants are properly cooked, pour 
 the macaroni over a dish, place the pheasants in the 
 centre, and serve with some good gravy in a sauce-boat 
 apart. 
 
 Note. — In order to roast game to a nicety, attention and 
 experience are required, as it is of the utmost importance 
 that birds should be removed from the fire as soon as they 
 are done. This is generally found to be the case when a 
 certain amount of evaporation is emitted from the bird's 
 
 664. PHEASANTS A LA MILANAISE. 
 Pick, draw, and truss two pheasants for boiling, and 
 braize them as for pheasants, housewife style. When 
 done, put them on a dish and keep hot; add one pint 
 of broth to the liquor in which the birds were braized, 
 "boil this and pass it through n tammy, then skim off the 
 
332 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 fat, and put it in a stewpan with some of the liquor, two 
 savoy cabhages each cut in four, the cores taken out, 
 and previously blanched , for five minutes in boiling salt 
 water, and half a pound each of Bologna sausage and 
 streaky bacon ; season with salt, pepper, and a " bouquet 
 garni ; " cover with a sheet of buttered paper, to prevent 
 the cabbages colouring, simmer for three-quarters of an 
 hour with the pan covered ; then remove the paper and 
 " bouquet ; " squeeze the gravy out of the cabbage by 
 pressing it in a colander ; cut the sausage and bacon into 
 slices a quarter of an inch thick ; cut also the cabbage into 
 small squares ; untie the pheasants and dish them up ; 
 place alternately cabbage, sausage, and bacon around the 
 pheasants, and serve with the remainder of the birds' 
 liquor, previously reduced to a half-glaze, in a sauce-boat 
 apart. 
 
 665. BOAST PHEASANT STUFFED WITH TRUFFLES. 
 
 Select two young and plump pheasants, and draw them, 
 in the same way as a turkey. Peel two pounds of fresh 
 truffles, cut them into small iilbert shaped-pieces, and put 
 them in a stewpan; pound the trimmings in a mortar, 
 with a quarter of a pound of chopped pickled cooked ox- 
 tongue and the saflae quantity of fat bacon ; add this to the 
 truffles with one pound of sausage-meat ; season with salt, 
 pepper, and nutmeg; set it to simmer for about ten 
 minutes; stir frequently; then moisten it with a gill of 
 either rum, Madeira, or broth ; mix well together, and let 
 it cool. When properly set stuff the pheasants with it; 
 sew up the vents and breast-skin ; truss them for roasting ; 
 wrap in a sheet of paper and put them by in a small 
 box or jar tightly shut, in a cool place for two or three 
 days ; or better still, bury them (folded in the paper) a foot 
 deep in the ground for the same number of days, when 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 333 
 
 the truffles will have imparted their aroma and flavour, to 
 the flesh of the birds. 
 
 Three-quarters of an hour before serving, bring the birds 
 out ; remove the paper ; lay on each breast a thin slice of 
 fat bacon ; tie these round with twine, and set them to 
 roast before an even fire for thirty-five minutes, freqiiently 
 basting them. When done (see note on Pheasants h, la 
 Napolitaine) remove the string, dish up the birds with 
 good brown gravy, and serve with Bread sauce in a bDat 
 apart. 
 
 Note. — When pheasants are roasted without stuffing, 
 serve then with seasoned watercress. 
 
 666. BOUDINS AND QUENELLES OF PHEASANT. 
 
 Follow the same directions as given for boudins of 
 chicken a la Richelieu and quenelles k la Toulouse. 
 
 667. SALMI OF PARTRIDGES. 
 
 Roast for twenty minutes, let cool, and cut up two 
 partridges as in salmi of pheasants. Pound the livet 
 and trimmings of the birds in the usual way, and add them 
 to the Salmis sauce (No. 199), together with half a pint 
 of button champignons or fresh mushrooms nicely shred ; 
 simmer and stir till the mush"rooms are done, then pour 
 the sauce over the pieces of partridge, and warm the con- 
 tents of the stewpan, gradually, by the side of the fire, with- 
 out boiling ; squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and then 
 dish up the pieces in a pyramidal form, pour the sauce 
 over, garnish with croutons fried in butter, and serve. 
 
 668. STEWED PARTRIDGE WITH CABBAGE. 
 
 After having picked, drawn, singed, and trussed two 
 partridges, with the legs tucked in as for boiling, fry them 
 
334 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 to a nice colour all round in a saut6-pan with an ounce 
 of butter. Cut a good cabbage (savoy preferred) into 
 quarters and blanch it for five minutes ; then steep it in 
 cold water, cut off the cores, press the water out, and put 
 it in a stewpan with the partridges nicely imbedded in it ; 
 season with a " bouquet garni," two medium carrots, two 
 onions with two cloves stuck in each, salt and pepper to 
 taste; moisten with enough broth to cover the cabbage, 
 add half a pound of streaky bacon, and cover the whole 
 with a buttered sheet of paper ; close the stewpan tightly, 
 and set it to simmer for an hour and a half. When done 
 take out the birds and bacon, and put them in the oven to 
 keep hot ; remove the "bouquet garni " and onion ; put the 
 cai'rots apart ; drain and press the cabbage in a colander, 
 and lay it oii a dish ; untie the partridges and place them 
 on the cabbage; cut the bacon in thin slices and the 
 carrots in fancy shape, garnish the dish round alternately 
 with them, and serve with some good brown gravy in a 
 sauce-boat. 
 
 669. BRAIZED PARTRIDGES A LA PERIGUEUX. 
 
 Draw and truss two partridges as in No. 668 ; tie a thin 
 slice of fat bacon on each breast; put them in a stewpan 
 with an ounce of butter, and fry them to a nice golden colour 
 .ill ovei-; then moisten with a gill of essence of truffles 
 (No. 170), the same quantity of Madeira, and three gills 
 of good broth ; season with salt, pepper, and a " bouquet 
 garni ;" lay a buttered sheet of paper over the pai-tridges, 
 cover the stewpan, and boil and simmer gently for forty- 
 five minutes. Meanwhile prepare a Financifere sauce 
 (No. 187). When the birds are well braized, dish them 
 up on a block of crumb of bread, previously cut six inches 
 Jong by four inches wide and three inches thick, fried in 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 335 
 
 butter as croiitons ; pour the half of the sauce over the 
 partridges, put the remainder in a sauce-boat, and serve. 
 
 670. ROAST PARTRIDGES. 
 
 Prepare and truss two young partridges as directed for 
 roast pheasants (without stuffing) ; cover each bi'east 
 with a thin slice of fat bacon, and tie these round with 
 twine ; then set the birds to roast before a good even fire 
 for about twenty minutes ; remove the string from the 
 birds ; dish them up with a good brown gravy, garnish 
 round with seasoned watercress, and serve. 
 
 671. BOUDINS AND QUENELLES OF PARTRIDGES. 
 
 For the preparation of boudins and quenelles of par- 
 tridges, see Boudins and Quenelles of Chicken. 
 
 672. ROAST GROUSE. 
 
 Pick, draw, singe, and truss a brace of grouse as for 
 roasting pheasants ; lay and tie a thin slice of fat bacon 
 on the breast of each bird, and set them to roast before 
 an even fire for twenty minutes. When done, dish the 
 birds on a croiiton of bread (see Braized Partridges a la 
 Perigueux) ; garnish with seasoned watercress, and serve 
 with good gravy, Bread sauce, and fried bread-crumbs, in 
 sauce-boats. 
 
 673. ROAST BLACK-GAME. 
 
 These should be prepared and trussed in the same 
 manner as grouse, roasted for twenty minutes with a slice 
 of fat bacon tied on the breast of each bird, and served 
 with the same ingredients as in No. 672. 
 
336 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 674. ROAST SNIPE. 
 
 Pick four snipe entirely, neck and head ; draw them, 
 but reserve the trail and liver, which chop and fry in a 
 stewpan with a little butter for five minutes, and keep 
 hot. Twist the legs so as to bring the feet behind the 
 thighs, and run the bill through the thighs and body. 
 Put a noose of string round the joints, across the lower 
 part of the breast,' bring both ends round, the head and 
 tip of the bill, and fasten it on the back. Cover the snipe 
 with thin slices of fat bacon and tie these on with twine. 
 Cut, toast, and butter four slices of bread, four inches 
 long by two and a half wide, and half an inch thick ; set 
 the birds to roast before a clear fire for eighteen minutes ; 
 place the buttered toast under to receive the gravy from 
 the birds, and baste frequently. When ready, remove the 
 string, lay the fried trail and liver on the buttered toast, 
 which will now be soaked with gravy, dish up the birds on 
 these pieces of toast, and serve with a garnish of seasoned 
 watercress and a sauce-boat of good gravy. 
 
 675. SALMI OF SNIPE, 
 Draw four snipe, reserving the trail and liver, and 
 roast them for eighteen minutes, without running the bill 
 through the body. When cooked and cold, cut them in 
 two lengthwise ; remove the neck,* skin, and feet ; trim the 
 halves, and put them in a saut6-pan. Pound the trimmings 
 and bones in a mortar, and put the pur6e in a stewpan 
 with two shalots, a " bouquet garni," two cloves, and half 
 a bottle of claret ; boil and reduce it to one-half ; then add 
 one and a half pint of Espagnole sauce. Simmer for 
 half an hour, skim o£f the fat as it rises to the surface, 
 strain the sauce through a tammy into a small stewpan, 
 and reduce it again until it coats the spoon; pour this 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 337 
 
 sauce over the birds to warm without boiling. Meanwhile 
 chop the trail, &c., and fry them with a little butter in a 
 small stewpan, seasoned with a little blanched and chopped 
 parsley, salt, and pepper. When the salmi is properly 
 warmed, dish up the pieces, pour the sauce over them ; lay 
 the trail mixture on eight crolitons of bread, and with 
 these garnish round and serve. 
 
 676. ROAST WOODCOCK. 
 
 These are prepared, trussed, and roasted in the same 
 manner as snipe. They are also very often roasted with- 
 out being drawn at all, but should be given two minutes 
 longer to cook, and then served with seasoned watercress 
 and toast. 
 
 677. ROAST PLOVER. 
 
 Pick, draw, singe, and truss plover for roasting in tho 
 same manner as pigeons (see No. 656), and serve them in 
 the same style. 
 
 Note. — Various kinds of big- winged game are sometimes 
 served surrounded with small birds, such as roast pheasants, 
 garnished with larks, quail, &c. ; in that case the pheasants 
 are put in the centre of the dish on pieces of toast. 
 
 678. ROAST QUAIL. 
 
 Pick, draw, and truss the birds required as directed for 
 pheasants ; lay on each a thin slice of fat bacon, large 
 enough to cover it, fold a vine-leaf over each of these and 
 tie them round the breast with twine ; fasten them to a 
 spit, and set them to roast before a clear fire for ten or 
 twelve minutes ; then remove the string, but leave the 
 bacon ; dish them on crofttons fried in butter, garnish with 
 seasoned watercress, and serve with gravy apart. 
 
 Y 
 
338 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 679. QUAIL A LA JARDINIERE. 
 
 Truss six quail as for braizing, put them in a stewpan, 
 cover them with thin slices of fat bacon, moisten with a 
 gill of Madeira and half a pint of good broth ; add a shred 
 carrot, onion, and a "bouquet gaiui." Boil them; cover 
 the pan and simmer for eighteen or twenty minutes; 
 and meanwhile prepare a jardiniere as for fillet of beef 
 Jardiniere (No. 950). "When the quail .are ready, pour the 
 sauce on to a dish, garnish the centre with the birds, pour 
 a few spoonfuls of half -glaze over the birds and jardiniere, 
 and serve with a sauce-boat of half-glaze apart. 
 
 680. ROAST LARKS. 
 
 Cut as many thin pieces of toasted bread, two inches long 
 by one inch and a half wide, as there "are larks ; cut also 
 in a similar manner twice as many thin slices of fat bacon, 
 and lay these on each side of the toast. Take the larks, 
 cut off the heads and legs, and draw out the gizzards with 
 the point of a small knife. Then run the larks, side by side 
 on a thin skewer, putting a piece of toast with the slices 
 of bacon between each bird ; tie both ends of th« skewer 
 to the spit, and set them to roast before a clear fire for 
 eight minutes, taking care to baste them. When done, 
 dish them up alternately with the toast and, bacon, and 
 serve with some good gravy in a sauce-boat apart. ' 
 
 681, LARKS, HOUSEWIFE STYLE. 
 
 Cut off the necks", legs, and pick out the gizzards of 
 twelve larks, place them in a saute-pan previously spread 
 with butter, season with salt and pepper, and fry them 
 to a nice brown colour over a brisk fire. Then add half a 
 pint of good gravy or broth, half a pound of nicely cut 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 339 
 
 fresh mushrooms, set to simmer for five minutes, add the 
 juice of a lemon and a little finely chopped parsley, toss 
 up the contents, dish up the larks with some fried croutons, 
 pour the mushrooms and sauce over, and serve. 
 
 682. ROAST WHEATEARS. 
 
 These small birds are generally plentiful along the 
 south coasts of England, and are in season in August and 
 September, when their condition is such as to resemble 
 small lumps of butter. They are highly esteemed and con- 
 sidered a great delicacy by epicures, and should be pre- 
 pared and roasted in the same manner as larks, but I 
 strongly recommend to be served with them polenta k la 
 Napolitaine. 
 
 683. ROAST WILD-DUCK, WIDGEON, TEAL, AND 
 WATER-HEN. 
 
 These wild-fowls are all drawn, trussed, and roasted in 
 the same style as roast pheasants, before a clear fire for 
 about a quarter of an hour, and then served with quarters 
 of lemon, cayenne pepper, and gravy separately. 
 
 684. SALMI OF WILD-DUCK. 
 Pick, draw and roast a wild-duck for a quarter of an 
 hour, as described in No. 683. When cold,- cut it into 
 small joints ; take oflf the skin ; trim the pieces and put 
 them in a stewpan ; put into another stewpan the trim- 
 mings and bones with half a pint of claret, four shalots, a 
 small "bouquet garni," an onion with three cloves stuck in 
 it, two pinches of salt, and a small one of cayenne. Boil 
 this down to half its quantity, then add one pint of Espag- 
 nole sauce, and reduce it to a nice consistency, after which 
 pass it through a tammy over the pieces of wild-duck; 
 
340 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 warm the salmis without boiling, squeeze the juice of half 
 a lemon ; toss up the contents ; dish up the pieces of bird 
 in the usual way, pour the sauce over, garnish round with 
 crofttons fried in butter, and serve. 
 
 685. WIDGEON, HOUSEWIFE'S STYLE. 
 Roast two widgeon. When done, cut them in small 
 joints and put in a stewpan with a quarter of a pound 
 of red-currant jelly, half a pint of port, and the juice 
 of a lemon ; season with salt and cayenne pepper ; simmer 
 with the pan partly covered for seven minutes ; then dish 
 up, pour the sauce over, garnish with crofitons cut and 
 fried in the usual way, and serve. 
 
 686. SALMI OF WIDGEON OR TEAL. 
 
 Pick, draw, and truss two of these birds for roasting ; 
 place them in an earthen dish, strew some thinly-sliced 
 carrot and onion, parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf about them, 
 season with salt, pepper, the juice of a lemon, and a gill 
 of salad oil; let them thus marinade for twelve hours, 
 taking care to frequently turn them over. Twenty 
 minutes before serving, run them upon a skewer, pla«e 
 the vegetables, &c., upon their breasts, wrap in two sheets 
 of oiled paper fastened on with twine, tie them on the 
 spit at both ends, and set to roast before a clear fire for 
 fifteen minutes. When cold, cut into small joints in the 
 usual way ; put the trimmings, and the gravy that hag 
 run into the pan from the birds, into a stewpan with 
 four shalots, two cloves, a blade of mace, thyme, and 
 bay-leaf, together with half a pint of claret and some 
 mushroom trimmings ; season with salt and pepper ; boil 
 for five minutes; then add half a pint of brown sauce 
 or good broth ; stir the sauce over the fire till it boils, 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 341 
 
 then draw it by the side of the stove to clear itself ; skim 
 it ; boil it again for ten minutes ; then pass it through a 
 tammy sieve over the pieces of wild-fowl into a stewpan ; 
 set them to warm without boiling. When ready, dish up 
 in a pyramidal form, pour the sauce over, garnish round 
 with fried croiitons, and serve. 
 
 687. SALMI OF WATER-HEN. 
 
 Draw, truss and roast before a brisk fire, for a quarter 
 of an hour, two water-hens. Cut them in four, pound the 
 trimmings and carcases, and put them into a stewpan with 
 two tablespoonfuls of salad oil, an ounce of butter, half a 
 pint of claret, salt, pepper, the peel of a lemon, and half a 
 pint of good gravy, as well as the gravy dropped from the 
 birds into the dish. Simmer the lot for half an hour; 
 dish up the pieces of wild fowl in the usual way ; squeeze 
 the juice of half a lemon into the sauce, pass this through 
 a pointed strainer over the dished fowl, garnish with fried 
 crofttons, and serve. 
 
CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 HOT, AND COLD MEAT PIES — PUDDINGS- 
 GALANTINES AND POTTED GAME. 
 
 688. BEEFSTEAK AND KIDNEY PIE. 
 
 Cut two pounds of beefsteak (top side or thick flank) into 
 scollops three inches long by two wide, and flatten these 
 slightly with the cutlet bat. Cut also six sheep's kidneys, 
 or the half of an ox-kidney, into slices a quarter of a:n inch 
 thick; season the lot well with salt, pepper, and a little 
 pounded aromatic herbs ; chop iine four chalots ; then 
 make a layer with the meat and kidney at the bottom of 
 an oval earthenware baking dish ; strew over some of the 
 chopped shalots and the yolk of an egg boiled hard and 
 cut in quarters, then another layer of steak, kidney, shalot, 
 and egg ; and so on till the whole of it is used. Fill this 
 up with good broth nearly to the level of the meat, and 
 cover the whole with a thin layer of puff paste (No. 
 318), previously made for that purpose, taking care first 
 to pass a brush dipped in water over the border of the 
 dish, and press the paste on this with the thumb. Make 
 a vent-hole in the centre, cut the paste round the border, 
 roll these trimmings together to the eighth of an inch, and 
 cut it with a pastry-cutter into four or five small leaves or 
 other fancy shapes, pass the brush, dipped in water again, 
 on one side of these, and lay them flat around the hole in 
 the centre ; gather the remainder of the paste, turn it into 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 343 
 
 a rose, and place it loose over the vent ; then with a pastry- 
 brush dipped in the yolk of an egg brush the paste slightly 
 over, and set it to bake in a moderately-heated oven for an 
 hour and three quarters' or two hours. When done, remove 
 the pastry rose from the vent-hole and pour in through it, 
 with the help of a funnel, one or two gills of good hot broth 
 or gravy; replace the rose and serve the pie, or put it by 
 to be served cold. 
 
 Note. — -Mushroom or truffle trimmings intermixed with 
 the steak will greatly improve this pie. 
 
 689. BEEFSTEAK AND OYSTER PIE. 
 
 Proceed to cut and season two pounds of beefsteak as 
 in the previous number, and substitute two dozen oysters 
 for the kidney, but these should first be blanched and 
 bearded and their liquor added to the broth ; then cover 
 with puff paste as the foregoing. Bake in the same style, 
 and serve. 
 
 690. VEAL AND HAM PIE. 
 
 Cut two pounds of cushion of veal into thin scollops, after 
 having been freed from skin and sinew ; flatten these with 
 the cutlet bat and lay them flat on the table, and spread on 
 each some sausage fneat the size of a large walnut. Season 
 with salt and pepper and pounded aromatic herbs, lay over 
 each scollop a thin slice of either cooked ham, gammon, or 
 lean bacon, free from rind and gristle; twist these round 
 with the ham inside, and arrange nicely in an earthen- 
 ware baking-dish ; fill up nearly to the level of 'the meat 
 with good stock, cover the dish with a puff paste, in the 
 same manner as beefsteak and kidney pie, and set it to 
 bake for about two hours. When ready, add some more 
 hot broth through the vent-hole, and put by till wanted. 
 
344 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD, COOKERY. 
 
 691, MUTTON PIE. 
 
 Remove the scrag and spine-bone from a neck of mutton ; 
 shorten the ribs to about three inches ; cut the neck into' 
 neat cutlets ; pare off the superfluous fat ; put the whole 
 of the trimmings into a stewpan with a pint and a half of 
 water ; season with salt, and boil for half an hour, taking 
 care to skim the broth in the usual way. Meanwhile 
 season the cutlets with salt and pepper, place them in a 
 circular form in a large pie-dish, and garnish the centre 
 with potatoes turned into small egg shapes. When the 
 broth is ready, strain it and skim off the fat, pour it over 
 the potatoes in the pie-dish, strew over them a teaspoonful 
 of finely-chopped parsley; cover the pie-dish with puff 
 paste, as in beefsteak and kidney pie ; set it to bake in 
 a moderate oven for an hour and three quarters ; then add 
 a little more broth, and serve. 
 
 Note. — This pie should be eaten hot. 
 
 692. PIGEON PIE. 
 
 Draw and singe three young pigeons ; cut oft the feet 
 and put them by ; cut the pigeons in four ; season each 
 piece with salt and pepper ; cut also one pound of rump- 
 steak into small scollops ; beat them with the cutlet bat ; 
 season these also with salt and pepper, then with one- 
 third make a layer at the bottom of a pie-dish. Place 
 six quarters of pigeons over them, intermixed with as many 
 halves of yolks of hard-boiled eggs, and the pigeons' livers, 
 then a layer of scollops of beef, then the other half of the 
 pigeons and eggs; finish with the remainder of the beef 
 scollops ; add the necessary quantity of hot broth or good 
 stock ; cover the dish with puff paste in the usual way (see 
 No. 318); imbed the feet of the pigeons in the top of the 
 paste, so as to leave the claws out in a symmetrical form, 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 345 
 
 and bake for about an hour and a half. When done, add 
 some more broth to the pie, and put it aside till wanted. 
 
 Note. — Mushroom trimmings, finely chopped with a little 
 parsley, will improve this pie. 
 
 693. CHICKEN PIE. 
 
 Draw, singe, and cut two chickens into small joints ; 
 trim these nicely and put the backs aside, to be used for 
 soup or essence of chicken. Out half a pound of cushion 
 of veal into small scollops, flatten these slightly with the 
 cutlet bat ; cut also half a pound of lean bacon into thin 
 slices ; cover the bottom of a pie-dish alternately with veal 
 and bacon ; season with salt, pepper, and a little chopped 
 parsley ; lay on these the half of the pieces of chicken with 
 the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs out in two and seasoned 
 with salt, pepper, and chopped parsley ; add another layer 
 of veal and bacon ; repeat the seasoning ; lay on these, in a 
 similar order, the remainder of the chicken ; season again 
 and finish with a few slices of laacon, properly trimmed and 
 laid on the top. Moisten two-thirds full with good stock 
 and half a gill of mushroom ketchup ; cover the lot in the 
 usual way with puff paste (see No. 3 1 8). Bake in a moder- 
 ately-heated oven for about an hour and a half. When 
 ready, replenish the gravy through the vent-hole, and serve 
 either hot or cold. 
 
 694. GIBLET PIE. 
 
 This pie should be made with two sets of either goose or 
 turkey giblets. Put the liver apart, blanch the giblets for 
 about two minutes in boiling water, immerse them in cold, 
 and drain them on a cloth ; then cut them inta pieces 
 two inches long, and put in a stewpan with a carrot, an 
 onion stuck with four cloves, a "bouquet gariii," and 
 season with salt and pepper. Moisten with a quart of 
 
346 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 stock, and simmer gently for about an hour ; then remove 
 the " bouquet garni," carrot, and onion ; strain the gravy 
 through a strainer into a small stewpan ; drain the giblets 
 upon a cloth; skim off all the fat from the gravy, and 
 boil it over a brisk fire for about a quarter of an hour. 
 Meanwhile, cover the bottom of a pie-dish with scollops of 
 beefsteak, well flattened with the cutlet bat, and season 
 with salt, pepper, a little chopped parsley, sweet basil, and 
 two chalots. Add the giblets in neat order, together with 
 the liver, previously set apart ; sprinkle over it some fine 
 herbs, and a small pinch of cayenne; moisten with the 
 reduced gravy ; cover the lot with puff paste (see No. 318), 
 bake it for an hour and a half, and serve. 
 
 695. RABBIT PIE. 
 
 Skin, empty, and clean thoroughly a nice young rabbit, 
 and cut it into small joints as for rabbit stewed k la 
 Chasseur. Trim these pieces nicely, leaving as little bone 
 as possible to them ; put the trimmings into a stewpan with 
 the head and neck cut in half ; add a pint and a half of 
 good stock, an onion stuck with four cloves, a " bouquet 
 •garni," a piece of rind of bacon, and any trimmings of veal 
 that may be had. Season with salt and pepper ; boil, skim, 
 and simmer for half an hour. Meanwhile place the pieces 
 of rabbit in a pie-dish, well intermixed with half a pound 
 of streaky bacon free from rind and gristle, previously 
 blanched for five minutes and cut into inch-dices. Season 
 the lot well with four chopped shalots, parsley, fine herbs, 
 and salt and pepper ; when the stock is ready, strain it 
 through a cloth over the rabbit. Cover the pie-dish with 
 puff paste in the usual way (see No. 318), and bake for an 
 hour and a half ; then serve, or put it in a cool place till 
 \'-anted. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 3_i7 
 
 696, LARK PIE. 
 
 Pick, singe, clean, and draw two dozen larks as for 
 roast larks (No. 680). Cut off the heads, wings, and legs 
 and put them aside; cut in small scollops one pound of 
 cushion of veal, and half a pound of lean bacon, free from 
 rind and gristle ; lay alternately one-third of these slices 
 at the bottom of the pie-dish ; put on them twelve larks, 
 close together, spread the half of two finely-chopped shalots, 
 a little parsley, and thyme. Season with salt and a pinch 
 of cayenne ; make another layer with one-third of the 
 scollops; put on these the other twelve larks, then another 
 layer of ingredients and seasoning, then lay upon the birds 
 the remainder of the veal and bacon ; fill up the dish two- 
 thirds full with good stock or gravy. Cover the lot with 
 puff paste. Bake in a moderately-heated oven for about 
 an hour and a half, replenish the gravy in the usual way, 
 and put it by till wanted. 
 
 Note. — Two or three fresh mushrooms finely chopped, 
 and the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs, cut in quarters and 
 properly spread with the seasoning, will improve this pie. 
 Any other small birds can also be made into a similar pie. 
 
 697. PARTRIDGE PIE. 
 
 Pick, draw, and singe three partridges ; cut off the feet 
 and wings; cut the partridges into small joints, cover the 
 bottom and sides of a pie-dish with thin layers of fat bacon, 
 place the pieces of pai-tridges in close order on these; 
 season well with salt, pepper, and aromatic herbs ; lay upon 
 these six small scollops of fillet of beef, well flattened and 
 seasoned, make another layer with slices of fat bacon; soak 
 the whole with game or ordinary broth flavoured with 
 essence of game. Cover the dish with puff paste in the 
 usual way (see No. 318). Dig the feet into the top of the 
 
348 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 paste in decorative style ; bake it in a moderately-heated 
 oven for one hour and a half, add a little more hot broth 
 through the vent-hole, and serve. 
 
 Note. — Blackgame, pheasants, grouse, quail, or any other 
 winged game can be made into a similar pie. 
 
 698. SNIPE PIE. 
 
 !l?ick and singe three snipe as pieviously described. Cut 
 off the heads, wings, and legs ; cut the birds into fours ; 
 remove the gizzards, but leave the trail; then cover the 
 lining of a pie-dish with thin slices of fat bacon ; place the 
 pieces of snipe in close layers on these slices ; season well 
 with aromatic herbs, salt, and pepper ; squeeze in the juice 
 of a lemon, pour a sufficient quantity of melted clarified 
 butter into the dish to cover the birds, and put another 
 layer of fat bacon on the top. Cover the dish with pufiE 
 paste (see No. 318). Bury the feet of the birds on the top 
 of the paste in a symmetrical form. Bake the pie in a 
 moderately-heated oven for one hour and a half, and keep 
 it in a cool place till wanted. 
 
 Note. — Woodcock, widgeon, and teal can be made into a' 
 similar pie. 
 
 699. GAME PIE IN MOULD. 
 
 For pies in moulds a short paste (No. 790) is substituted 
 for puil paste, and this should be made first. Skin and 
 draw a hare ; save the blood, remove the two fillets from 
 each side of the spine, and out these into strips half an inch 
 thick and put them aside on a plate ; bone the remainder 
 of the hare ; put the bones, head, and neck into a stewpan, 
 after having split the two latter in halves; pare off one 
 pound of cushion of veal from skin, gristle, and sinew ; put 
 the trimmings in the stewpan with the bones of hare; 
 remove also the rind of one pound of fat bacon ; put this 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 349 
 
 aside, add the rind to the stewpan, together with a boned 
 calf's foot cut in pieces, a "bouquet garni," one onion with 
 four cloves stuck in it, and moisten with three pints of 
 stock ; season with salt and pepper ; boil ; skim the broth 
 in the usual way and simmer for about an hour, meanwhile 
 chop up the pieces of boned hare, veal, and half the 
 quantity of the fat bacon, previously freed from rind ; pass 
 them through the sausage machine, taking care to add the 
 blood of the hare whilst grinding the meat. When done 
 lay the forcemeat on a dish and season it well with allspice ; 
 and cut the remainder of the fat bacon into strips the 
 same size as the fillets of hare. Take an eight-inch oval 
 pie-mould, butter the inside, and line it at the bottom 
 and round the sides, half an inch above the top of the 
 mould, with short paste, previously made for that purpose 
 and rolled to an even thickness about the third of an inch ; 
 lay some of the forcemeat at the bottom of the mould, 
 then three or four' strips each of bacon and fillet of hare, 
 nicely intermixed and laid lengthwise, then another layer of 
 forcemeat and strips, and finish with a layer of forcemeat. 
 When the broth has boiled its proper time, and is well 
 reduced, strain it through a cloth and pour about three 
 quarters of a pint of it into the pie, making at the same 
 time a few holes in the forcemeat with a trussing needle ; 
 lay a bay-leaf on the top ; cover the pie with short paste, 
 having previously moistened the border of the mould with 
 water, then press the two together between the thumb 
 and finger to form the edge. Cut the superfluous paste 
 even with the mould, and pinch round again ; roll out the 
 remaining paste, cut it of the same shape as the top of the 
 pie, to make a second cover ; moisten the first with a brush 
 dipped in water, and lay this second cover over it ; brush 
 over the top with the yolk of a beaten egg, then with a 
 pointed knife cut a round hole half an inch wide in the 
 
350 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 centre, and, cover it with a loose piece of paste. Set it in 
 a well-heated oven to bake for about two hours and a half, 
 but should the oven be too fierce, cover the pie with a sheet 
 of buttered paper to prevent the crust getting too brown. 
 
 Note. — A pound or two of truffles cut in quarters and 
 properly mixed with the forcemeat will greatly improve 
 the flavour of this pie. The ilesh of a boned rabbit can 
 also be substituted for veal, and any kind of boned winged 
 game can likewise be added to the pie. 
 
 700. PORK PIE IN MOULD. 
 
 Make about two pounds of short paste (No. 790), roll it 
 up, and put aside till wanted. Cut two pounds of griskin 
 of pork in slices, season these with chopped onion, sage, 
 thyme, salt and pepper, and put them on a dish ; cut also 
 two pounds of streaky bacon, free from rind and gristle 
 (previously boiled for ten minutes) in slices, and prit them 
 with the pork ; to these add three pounds of good apple-s, 
 which, when peeled and the cores taken out, must be cut 
 in thick slices and put on a plate j take a tin mould, about 
 three inches deep, butter it and line the inside with the 
 short paste, previously made and rolled out to an even 
 thickness about the third of an inch ; arrange the bacon, 
 apples, and pork in this, in alternate layers, till the whole 
 is used up. Moisten 'the border round the mould with 
 water ; cover the pie with the remaining paste ; press the 
 two borders together round the edges with the thumb and 
 finger, trim it, and make a small round hole in the centre, 
 cover it with a piece of loose paste ; egg the top of the pie 
 with a brush, and set it to bake in a moderately-heated oven 
 for two hours and a half, and serve hot. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 351 
 
 701. BEEFSTEAK AND OYSTER PUDDING. 
 
 Chop fine half a pound of beef suet, and mix it with a 
 pound of sifted flour on the slab ; gather this together with 
 the hands, make a hole in the centre to receive a teaspoonful 
 of salt and about a gill of water. Mix and work this well 
 together to a stiffish paste, using a little more water if 
 necessary, and a little more flour to dry it, then with it line 
 a pudding basin previously buttered, keeping enough paste 
 apart to cover it. Fill the basin with beefsteak and oysters 
 similarly prepared as in No. 689, but with only half the 
 quantity of broth. When the pudding is filled, wet the 
 edges of the paste round the top of the basin with a paste ■ 
 brush dipped in water, and cover with the remaining suet 
 paste rolled out to the size of the top of the basin ; press this 
 down all round the edge with the thumb, and twist the 
 edges of the paste over so as to give it a corded appeai-- 
 ance ; tie the basin in a pudding-cloth, and boil in enough 
 water for about two hours and a half, taking care that 
 the water always covers the pudding; then take it out, 
 untie the cloth, turn the pudding over on a dish, lift the 
 basin carefully without breaking the paste, pour some good 
 gravy under, and serve. 
 
 702. BEEFSTEAK AND KIDNEY PUDDING. 
 
 Proceed with the paste as in the previous number, fill 
 the pudding basin with scollops of beefsteak and kidneys 
 properly seasoned as for No. 688 ; moisten with a gill 
 of broth; cover the basin as in the foregoing, then boil 
 for two hours and a half, taking care that the water always 
 covers the basin, and serve. 
 
 703. MUTTON PUDDING. 
 
 Line a basin with paste, made as for beefsteak and 
 oyster pudding Prepare some mutton as for mutton 
 
352 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 pie (No. 691), or if preferred, cut part of a leg of mutton into 
 thick scollops ; season with salt, pepper, chopped parsley, 
 shalots, and thyme ; make a layer of meat and one of sliced 
 potatoes ; moisten with a little mutton broth if possible ; 
 cover the basin as before, tie in a pudding-cloth, and let 
 boil, with enough water to cover the basin, for two hours 
 and a half or three , hours ; then turn the pudding over a 
 dish, pour some good gravy under, and serve. 
 
 704. SMALL-BIRD PUDDING. 
 
 Any kind of small birds, such as larks, sparrows, wheatears, 
 &c., &c., can be used for this pudding. Pick three dozen 
 birds, clean, cut off the heads and feet and draw the 
 gizzards ; cut also half a pound of streaky bacon in small 
 dice, -free from rind. Line a pudding basin, previously 
 buttered, with paste made as for beefsteak and oyster 
 pudding ; put in it a layer of birds and bacon alternately ; 
 season with pepper, chopped parsley, shalots, a little grated 
 nutmeg, and s.ilt ; make another layer of birds, bacon, and 
 seasoning till all are used; moisten with a gill of good 
 broth, cover the basin with paste as previously described, 
 tie it round with a pudding cloth, and boil two hours and 
 a half ; when ready remove the cloth, turn "the basin over 
 a dish, remove it carefully without breaking the paste, and 
 serve with some good gravy poured under. 
 
 705. GALANTINE OF VEAL AND HAM. 
 Procure a breast of nice white veal ; bone ft, and remove 
 all superfluous fat and skin; lay it flat on the table, inside 
 upwards. Make nine small incisions across this, without, 
 however, cutting through the flesh ; make three pounds of 
 sausage meat, spread this on a dish ; cut into small dice 
 one pound each of cooked ham and ox-tongue, and half a 
 pound of fat bacon; put these into the sausage meat. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 353 
 
 Skin two ounces of pistachio kernels, after having been 
 scalded, and add them to the sausage meat. Season with 
 salt, pepper, and allspice. Mix the lot well together with 
 the hands, then spread this forcemeat on the veal and 
 roll it tight; butter a pudding-cloth, place the veal on 
 it, and roll up again very tight ; fasten at each end with 
 string, thus giving it the appearance of a cushion ; put it 
 in an oval stewpan, with the bones chopped up and the 
 trimmings of veal, two calf's feet in halves, one carrot, 
 one onion with four cloves stuck in it, and a " bouquet 
 garni ; " season with salt, two dozen peppercorns, and two 
 blades of mace. Cover the galantine well with water, boil 
 it, and simmer very gently for about three hours ; then 
 draw the stewpan away from the fire, and let the galantine 
 partially cool in its liquor for three quarters of an hour ; 
 after which drain and remove the cloth, wash this clean 
 in hot water, and tie up the galantine again as before, and 
 put it on a baking-sheet to be pressed, with a piece of 
 board or dish and a seven-pound weight on the top, for at 
 least a couple of hours. Meanwhile strain the broth, 
 skim off all the grease, reduce by a sharp boiling, clarify 
 most carefully, and pass through a jelly-bag or fine cloth 
 into a pan, and put it in a cool place to set firm into 
 aspic jelly. When the galantine has been properly pressed, 
 take it out of the cloth, put in front of the open oven 
 for two minutes to melt the fat, which must be wiped off 
 with a clean dry cloth ; then glaze the galantine as previ- 
 ously described for glazing ox-tongues. Put it on a cold 
 dish, garnish round with the aspic jelly, cut in fancy shape 
 a few sprigs of dried parsley, and serve. 
 
 706. GALANTINE OF CHICKEN. 
 Pick, singe, draw, and bone completely a fine and large 
 Surrey chicken, draw inside the skin from the legs and 
 
354 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 pinions, and spread the chicken out on the table ; cut off 
 part of the fillets to cover the thinner parts of the skin ; 
 season with salt, pepper, and allspice. Chop up fine one 
 pound each of lean veal and fat bacon, both free from 
 skin and gristle. Season with nutmeg, salt, pepper, and 
 aromatic herbs, and pound it in a mortar with the yolks 
 of two eggs and the peel of a pound and a half of truffles, 
 and put it in a basin. Cut in half-inch dice half a pound 
 each of cooked ox-tongue and fat bacon, add these to the 
 forcemeat, together with the truffles, previously peeled, 
 also cut in dice. Mix the lot well together with the 
 hands ; then spread it on the chicken ; twist this round, 
 sew it up with a trussing-needle and twine, and roll it 
 tight in a well-buttered cloth, which must be fastened at 
 each end with string, in a similar way as galantine of 
 veal and ham ; then place it in an oval stewpan, with 
 the bones of the chicken and trimmings of veal, &c., as 
 well as two calf's feet cut in two, one carrot, one onion 
 stuck with four cloves, a " bouquet garni," two blades of 
 mace, and twelve peppercorns. Moisten with a gill of 
 brandy and enough white stock to cover the galantine; 
 boil and simmer gently for two hours, and then proceed in 
 eveiy respect as for galantine of veal and ham. 
 
 jS/'ote. — Galantines of turkey and pheasant are made in 
 the same way. 
 
 707. POTTED HARE. 
 
 Procure an earthenware pan, with cover, of about seven 
 inches in diameter. Skin, empty, and bone entirely a nice 
 hare ; reserve the blood to mix with the forcemeat. Chop 
 up two pounds of streaky bacon with half of the flesh from 
 the- legs and shoulders of the hare, all free from sinew, 
 gristle and rind, season well with allspice, pound it in a 
 mortar, adding the blood whilst pounding. Lard the 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 355 
 
 fillets of the hare with small strips of bacon, cut these 
 fillets across ; season with allspice, and fry them with the 
 remaining part of the hare in a saute-pan with an ounce 
 of butter for about ten minutes in order to dry the 
 moisture contained in the hare ; then put a layer of the 
 forcemeat one inch thick in the earthenware pan ; lay on 
 this one half of the hare's flesh, another layer of forcemeat, 
 the other half of the hare, and the remaining forcemeat ; 
 cover with thin slices of fat bacon, put the cover on the 
 pan, and place it in a large stewpan with three inches of 
 boiling water, cook in a hot oven for three hours, and 
 when cold, cover the potted meat with melted fat or 
 clarified butter and put by in a cool place, when it will 
 keep fresh for months. 
 
 Note. — Pheasants, partridges, larks, and rabbits can be 
 potted in the same way. 
 
CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 REMARKS ON VEGETABLES. 
 
 England is not so rich in vegetables as she is in other 
 products and necessaries of life, as there are several kinds 
 quite unknown in this country which are highly esteemed 
 abroad, such as cardoons, goat's-beard or viper's grass, 
 blite, mad-apple, &c. ; whUst sorrel and artichokes are but 
 slightly cultivated. Potatoes, as a matter of course, hold 
 the leading position amongst vegetables. What could we 
 do without potatoes 1 They were, however, quite unknown 
 in Europe three centuries ago, having been imported from 
 South America (according to some authorities) in 1586 by 
 Sir Francis Drake; but their general introduction dates 
 only from 1592. There is no vegetable — in fact, eggs and. 
 rice excepted, there. is nothing in the world that can be 
 cooked and dressed in so many different ways as potatoes. 
 Some two hundred styles, I believe, have been attained. 
 This reminds me of a dinner I provided at the St. James' 
 Hall in 1876 to some forty Irish members of Parliament, 
 which I hope may not be out of place if related here. 
 
 In taking the order from Major O'Gorman (whom I 
 had the pleasure of knowing well), I had strongly im- 
 pressed upon me the necessity of having plenty of potatoes 
 for that dinner, as they were all Irish gentlemen, and very 
 fond of them. I promised to comply with his wishes, and 
 on the day and time appointed the dinner was duly served 
 
 with ten different styles of cooked potatoes. These were 
 
 356 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 357 
 
 passed round in the usual way, with the entries, when 
 Major O'Gorman, who was in the chair (a good strong one, 
 as he weighed about twenty stone), summoned me to his 
 presence and complained in very strong terms that no 
 potatoes could be had. " Major ! " said I, " there must be 
 some mistake, as you all seem pretty well supplied with 
 them ; you have actually three sorts on your plate, and 
 to all appearance are enjoying them ! " The poor Major 
 was quite amazed to see that they were all partaking of 
 potatoes without knowing it. Recovering, however, from 
 liis surprise, he at once ordered plenty of boiled potatoes, 
 but that did not prevent his being chafiEed about his mis- 
 take for a long time afterwards. 
 
 708. BOILED POTATOES. 
 
 Potatoes are boiled either with the skin on or off. The 
 former is the best. Wash off the dirt by scrubbing with 
 a hard brush, and rinse them well ; put into a sauce- 
 pan with enough cold water to cover them, and a teaspoon- 
 f ul of salt for every quart of water ; boil till the potatoes 
 are nearly done, which can be ascertained by inserting a 
 trussing-needle into one or two of them ; then drain off 
 the water, cover the stewpan, and place it by the side of 
 the fire for about five minutes, when the steam and moisture 
 will evaporate and the potatoes get floury; then peel as 
 quickly as possible, and serve. 
 
 Note. — Potatoes will generally require boiling for a quarter 
 of an hour, but in some instances a longer time is necessary. 
 In all cases they should be served as soon as cooked, 
 
 709. POTATO PUR^E. 
 
 See No. 231. 
 
358 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 710. POTATOES A LA MAfTRE D'H6tEL, 
 
 Boil two pounds of potatoes gently so as not to break 
 them, then peel and cut them in slices, a quarter of an inch 
 thick ; put these in a stewpan with half a pound of maltre 
 d'h6tel butter (No. 226), half a pint of white broth, and a 
 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley. Mix the lot well by 
 tossing the pan over the fire ; squeeze over them the juice 
 of a lemon, and serve. 
 
 711. POTATOES WITH CREAM. 
 Boil, peel, and cut in slices two pounds of potatoes "as in' 
 No. 710; put them in a stewpan with one pint of cream 
 or milk, simmer for ten minutes ; then add one ounce of 
 butter if cream, but it milk two ounces, divided in seven 
 or eight pieces ; add a pinch of salt and a little nutmeg ; 
 toss till the butter is well melted, and serve. 
 
 712. POTATOES SAUTJ^ES. 
 
 These are prepared either with raw or cooked potatoes ; 
 the latter style is the most in use. Any cold boiled 
 potatoes left from the previous day are cut in slices and 
 browned to a nice golden cdlour with fresh butter, either 
 in a saute or frying-pan ; season with salt, pepper, and a 
 little chopped parsley, and serve. 
 
 713. POTATOES SAUT]SeS A LA LYONNAISE. 
 
 Cut some potatoes in slices as above, say two pounds; 
 melt three ounces of fresh butter in a clean frying-pan, 
 in which fry three finely sliced onions to a brown colour ; 
 then add the potatoes and toss them now and then, till 
 they' are of a nice brown; season with salt, pepper and 
 half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, moisten with a 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 359 
 
 little good gravy if bandy, mix well together, and serve 
 very hot. 
 
 714. POTATOES SAUT^ES A L'lTALIENNE. 
 
 Peel and cut in oval slices, the thickness of a crown 
 piece, two pounds of nice raw Regent potatoes ; fry 
 these gently on a moderate fire in a saut^-pan with three 
 ounces of clarified butter to a nice golden colour, then 
 drain the butter into a saucepan containing half a pint 
 of hot tomato sauce. Glaze the potatoes with half a pint 
 of good gravy, and dress them in pyramid form on a dish ; 
 squeeze the juice of a lemon in the tomato sauce, pour it 
 over the potatoes, and serve. 
 
 715. POTATOES A LA BECHAMEL. 
 
 Peel, cut, fry, and glaze two pounds of potatoes as in 
 No. 714; then cover them, when dished up, with half a pint 
 of good Bechamel sauce, and serve. 
 
 716. POTATOES AU GRATIN. 
 
 Prepare two pounds of potatoes as in No. 715, mnsk 
 them in the same way with Bechamel sauce, sprinkle over 
 them two ounces of grated cheese and a tablespoonful of 
 raspings, then add an ounce of fresh butter divided into 
 five parts, with a pinch of grated nutmeg ; place the dish 
 in a moderately-heated oven till it has attained a golden 
 colour, and serve. 
 
 717. POTATOES A LA SAVOISIENNE. 
 
 Boil two pounds of potatoes for fifteen minutes ; peel and 
 cut them into thin slices ; make a layer with these in a 
 deep gra^in-dish ; sprinkle on it a tablespoonful of grated 
 
36o PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 cheese, a few pieces of butter, and a gill of good gravy. 
 Repeat the layer of potatoes and so 'on ; then cover the 
 whole with ar quart of cream reduced to half, by boiling ; 
 season with a pinch of powdered cinnamon ; place the dish 
 in the oven to bake, and when of a nice brown all over, 
 serve. 
 
 718. POTATOES A LA PROVENgALE. 
 
 Boil in their skins two pounds of potatoes for fifteen 
 minutes. Meanwhile chop fine an onion, a clove of garlic, 
 a few sprigs of parsley, and a few fresh mushrooms. Try 
 these in a saut6-pan with a gill of salad-oil and an ounce 
 of butter to a nice brown colour. When the potatoes are 
 properly cooked, peel and cut them in thin slices ; add three 
 boned and chopped anchovies to the stewpan ; stir the con- 
 tents, then add the potatoes ; toss them well together, 
 simmer for eight or ten minutes, and squeeze the juice of 
 half a. lemon before serving. 
 
 719. POTATOES A LA BEAUFORT. 
 
 Select two^ pounds of nice even round potatoes ; peel 
 them, and with a round vegetable-scoop make a hole the 
 size of a cork, two-thirds deep, in the centre of each. Fill 
 these up with either cooked veal or beef nicely chopped, 
 and properly seasoned with salt, pepper, and a little grated 
 nutmeg ; add a piece of butter as big as a Windsor bean on 
 the top of each ; place the potatoes with the meat up side 
 by side on a baking-sheet; moisten with good gravy or broth. 
 Cover the potatoes with a buttered sheet of paper, and set 
 them to bake in a moderately heated oven till cooked, 
 taking care to baste them two or three times during that 
 time. When done, ^erve with the remainder of the gravy 
 in a sauce-boat apart. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 361 
 
 720. POTATO CROQUETS. 
 
 Boil two pounds of peeled potatoes in the usual way (see 
 No. 708). When cooked, rub them through a wire sieve 
 into a stewpan ; add one ounce of butter and the yolks of 
 two eggs properly beaten. Work this well together with a 
 wooden spoon ; then sprinkle a paste-board with flour ; 
 divide the purde in equal parts, roll these on the board to 
 the shape of corks, dip them in egg, bread-crumb, and fry 
 them in hot fat to a golden colour, and serve. 
 
 721. POTATOES A LA DUCHESSE. 
 
 Prepai'e some mashed potatoes as in the previous number. 
 Sprinkle a psiste-board with flour ; shape the pur6e on it 
 in oval cakes two inches long by one and a half wide and 
 one inch thick ; then fry them in clarified butter ; drain 
 them on a cloth, and serve. 
 
 722. FRIED POTATOES. 
 
 Peel one pound of potatoes, cut these in half-inch slices 
 and then in quarter-inch strips ; dry them in a cloth 
 and fry in boiling fat over a brisk fire for about twelve 
 minutes, giving an occasional stir with the frying-basket 
 to secure an even cooking and prevent them adhering to 
 one another. When of a nice golden colour, drain them on 
 a clean cloth by twisting and shaking them over; then 
 sprinkle with salt, dish up, and serve. 
 
 723. CHIPPED POTATOES, FRIED. 
 
 After having peeled one pound of potatoes, cut them in 
 very thin slices, say the sixteenth of an inch, and dry in 
 a cloth ; then fry them in hot fat over a brisk fire for 
 about ten minutes, taking care to stir occasionally with the 
 
362 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 frying-basket, to secure an even colouring ; drain on a cloth, 
 sprinkle with salt, and serve. 
 
 724u FRIED POTATOES, FAILLE. 
 
 Peel and slice one pound- of potatoes as above, then cut 
 these in shreds the size of straws, dry, and fry in hot fat 
 for about seven minutes. When of a nice golden colour, 
 drain, sprinkle with salt, and serve. 
 
 Note. — This style is generally served with roast game. 
 
 725. FRIED POTATOES SOUFFL^ ES. 
 
 Peel one and a half pound of kidney potatoes to the 
 shape of an egg, and slice them lengthwise to an eighth of 
 an inch thick, taking care to have all of the same size; 
 dry in the usual way and fry in hot fat for six minutes ; 
 then gather them in the frying-basket, and drain arid 
 cool by the side of the stove ; keep the fat on the fire 
 to increase the temperature by a few degrees, and when 
 the potatoes are quite cold, throw them in the fat again 
 for five minutes to complete the cooking, when the reaction 
 of the heat will cause them to 'swell like eggs. This being 
 attained, drain them quickly over a clean cloth, sprinkle 
 with salt, and serve at once. 
 
 726. POTATO SOUFFL]^. 
 
 Wash and bake in their skins a pound of potatoes : this 
 will take about three-quarters of an hour if the oven is 
 well heated. When soft, squeeze them over a wire sieve 
 and rub through with a wooden spoon into a large 
 basin. Put into a stewpan a gill of milk with an ounce of 
 butter; bring this to boil, giving it an occasional stir; 
 season slightly with salt, pepper, and a pinch of grated 
 nutmeg; then draw the pan awny from the &ee, add its 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 363 
 
 contents gradually to the yolks of four eggs properly beaten, 
 stirring the while. When the liaison is made, mix it well 
 with the mashed potatoes; whisk the whites of the four 
 eggs to a stiff froth, add it to the mashed potatoes, and stir 
 it into the mixture. Pour the whole into a well -buttered 
 souffle or pie dish ; set it to bake in a well-heated oven for 
 about twelve minutes, when it will have risen and become 
 of a golden colour, then serve. 
 
 727. NEW POTATOES WITH BDTTER. 
 
 Wash and scrape two pounds of small new potatoes (.as 
 much as possible of the same size). Put them in a stewpan 
 with a teaspoonful of salt and enough cold water to cover 
 them. Set them to boil two minutes only ; then drain off 
 the water and dry them on a cloth. Melt three ounces 
 of fresh butter in a sautd-pan, add the potatoes, and simmer 
 on a good fire for about twenty minutes, taking care to 
 often toss them, in order to give them an even colour all 
 round. When properly done, sprinkle some salt and a tea- 
 spoonful of finely chopped parsley, dish up, and servo. 
 
 728. PLAIN BOILED CABBAGE. 
 
 Trim off the outer leaves of a cabbage, divide it in four, 
 soak these in cold water for an hour with a handful of salt ; 
 when well washed, drain and squeeze the water out of them, 
 cut off the stalks, and throw the cabbage into boiling water 
 with a tablespoonful of salt. When properly cooked, pour 
 them into a colander, drain the water out by pressing the 
 cabbage with a small plate, and serve. 
 
 729, CABBAGE, COUNTRY STYLE. 
 
 Trim off, divide, clean, and blanch for five minutes a 
 cabbage as described in No. 728; then squeeze the water 
 
364 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 out and put the cabbage in a stewpan. Moisten with good 
 broth, season with salt and pepper, then cover with a layer 
 of bacon cut in thin slices and a buttered sheet of paper on 
 the top. Boil with the stewpan covered for twenty minutes, 
 "then stand in the oven for ten minutes, and serve. 
 
 730. STUFFED CABBAGE. 
 
 Pick out all the nice leaves of a big savoy cabbage; 
 wash these well and blanch them in boiling salt water for 
 five minutes, then drain and wipe them dry, lay them flat 
 on the table in the form of a ten-inch square. Chop up in 
 small dice one pound of cooked veal and a quarter of a 
 pound of cooked ham, and mince very fine a clove of garlic ; 
 then mix these with haK a pound of plain boiled rice, 
 season with salt and pepper, and put the mixture in the 
 centre of the cabbage-leaves ; fold these up and tie them 
 well all round with string. Boil in the stock-pot for 
 twenty minutes, then put it on a baking-dish, moisten with 
 a little gravy, and set it in a hot oven for ten minutes. 
 When nicely browned remove the string and serve with 
 some gravy in a sauce-boat. 
 
 731. BOILED CAULIFLOWER. BUTTER SAUCE. 
 
 Pare off the coarse outer leaves of two medium cauli- 
 flowers, cut the stalks aiid pare away the tough skin round 
 it, throw these in a basin of cold water, adding half a gill 
 of vinegar, in order to draw out any caterpillar or insect 
 that may be in them, then plunge them in boiling water 
 with a teaspoonful of salt, and boil for twelve or fifteen 
 minutes according to size. When the cauliflowers are 
 done, which can be ascertained by pressing a small piece 
 between the fingers ; if this should give way easily to the 
 pressure, although still retaining a certain firmness, they 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 365 
 
 must be taken off from the fire, carefully removed with a 
 slice and drained on a sieve, then dished up and served 
 with Butter sauce (No. 157). 
 
 732. FRIED CAULIFLOWER. 
 
 Trim, wash, and boil two cauliflowers as in No. 731, 
 then drain and cut them into pieces. Melt two ounces of 
 fresh butter in a frying-pan, add the pieces of cauliflower, 
 season with salt and pepper, and fry to a nice brown all 
 round, taking care to toss them, in order to prevent burn- 
 ing ; then dish up, and serve. 
 
 733, FRIED CAULIFLOWER WITH PARMESAN CHEESE. 
 
 Prepare and fry the cauliflowers as above ; when of a 
 nice brown, sprinkle two tablespoonfuls of grated parmesan 
 cheese, toss and dish up the cauhflower; warm a gill of 
 good gravy in the same frying-pan, pour it over the cauli- 
 flower, and serve. 
 
 734. CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN. 
 
 Boil two cauliflowers as in No. 731. Meanwhile put 
 one ounce of butter and one ounce of flour in a stewpan, 
 stir over the fire for three minutes, then add one pint of 
 water or white stock; season with salt and pepper; boil 
 for ten miautes, stirring the while, then draw by the side 
 of the fire. When the cauliflowers are done and drained, 
 cut them in pieces. Grate one ounce and a half each of 
 parmesan and Gruyfere cheese and mix it well together; 
 put a layer of cauliflower at the bottom of a gratin-dish, 
 then a layer with one-third of the grated cheese and a layer 
 of sauce ; pile up the remaining cauliflower on the top ; 
 cover with another third of cheese and the sauce, sprinkle 
 the third part of the cheese over the sauce, and add a 
 
366 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 tablespoonful of raspings. Baste with an ounce of melted 
 fresh butter, and set the dish to bake in a hot oven for 
 about a quarter of an hour. Meanwhile put the salamander 
 in the fire to be made red hot, pass this over the top of the 
 cauliflower to give a light brown colour, and serve. 
 
 735. CAULIFLOWER A LA GENOISE. 
 
 Prepare and boil two nice cauliflowers as previously de- 
 scribed, fry in butter ; dish them up and pour half a pint 
 of Genoise sauce over them (No. 207), to which four boned 
 and chopped anchovies have been added, and serve. 
 
 736. CAULIFLOWER A LA BECHAMEL. 
 
 Trim, wash, boil, and fry in butter two cauliflowers 
 as above; dish them up and pour over some Bdchamel 
 sauce (No. 154), and serve. 
 
 737. BOILED BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 
 
 Select one pound of - light-green and hard Brussels 
 sprouts, cut the stalks and pare off the outside leaves ; 
 wash, drain, and throw them in three quarts of boiling 
 water with a teaspoonful of salt. Boil fast for a quarter 
 of an hour,, drain them on a clean cloth, and serve. 
 
 738. BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH BUTTER. 
 
 Pick and boil a pound of nice Brussels sprouts as in the 
 foregoing ; drain and fry them in a frying-pan with half an 
 ounce of butter for five minutes, taking care to toss them 
 to prevent burning. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, and grated 
 nutmeg, toss up, and serve. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. ^./o^ 
 
 739. TURNIPS WITH GRAVY. 
 
 Select six tender and medium-sized turnips, peel and 
 wash them well, then blanch in boiling water with a tea- 
 spoonful of salt for five minutes ; drain, and cut into 
 four. Melt one ounce of fresh butter in a saut6-pan, add 
 the pieces of turnips, fry them to a nice light brown, 
 season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, moisten with a pint 
 of good stock or gravy, sprinkle in a teaspoonful of 
 powdered sugar, cover the pan and simmer for about 
 twenty minutes. When done, which can be ascertained by 
 trying them with a trussing-needle, dish them up, pour the 
 gravy over, and serve. 
 
 740. TURNIPS A LA SAVOISIENNE. 
 
 Choose, peel, and blanch six nice tender turnips for five 
 minutes ; then drain and let them get cold ; after which cut 
 them in slices the eighth of an inch thick and fry with an 
 ounce of fresh butter to a nice golden colour, taking care 
 to season them with salt and grated nutmeg. Put a layer 
 of these at the bottom of a buttered gratin-dish, sprinkle 
 on them a tablespoonful of grated cheese with a similar 
 quantity of gravy or good stock, then another layer of 
 turnips, and so on, finishing with grated cheese and rasp- 
 ings mixed with an ounce of melted butter. Bake this in 
 a hot oven to a nice brown colour, then add two or three 
 tablespoonfuls of gravy over, and serve. 
 
 741. MASHED TURNIPS. 
 Peel, cut in eight parts, and blanch in the usual way 
 half a dozen turnips ; then drain and fry in a stewpan 
 with an ounce of butter for five minutes ; season with salt, 
 pepper, and nutmeg ; moisten with a gill of good white stock. 
 Simmer gently with the lid on, and when well done rub 
 
368 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 through a fine wire sieve into the stewpan again ; add 
 an ounce of fresh butter, a tablespoonful of powdered sugar, 
 and half a pint of good white stock or milk, mix well to- 
 gether over the fire with a wooden spoon, and when nicely 
 smooth and hot, serve. 
 
 742. CARROTS A L'lTALIENNE. 
 Young carrots only should be used for this dish. Cut 
 off the the green part of a bunch of new carrots, blanch 
 in boiling water for about ten minutes, drain, and when 
 cool peel ofE the skin with a knife or rub it off with 
 a cloth ; put them in a stewpan with an ounce of fresh 
 butter, a tablespoonful of powdered sugar, and a pint of 
 good broth. Boil on a brisk fire for about twenty minutes 
 or till they are well glazed. Season with salt, pepper, and 
 a tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, add half an ounce 
 of fresh butter, toss them over the fire, and when the butter 
 is properly melted, dish up and serve. 
 
 743. CARROTS, HOUSEWIFE STYLE. 
 
 Select a nice bunch of new carrots, and blanch them in 
 boiling water for ten minutes ; drain, and when cold rub 
 their skin off with a cloth ; slice them a quarter of an 
 inch thick, put in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, 
 a pint and a half of milk, a good pinch of salt, and a little 
 grated nutmeg. Partly cover the stewpan and boil on a 
 brisk fire for about twenty minutes, taking care to stir 
 occasionally with a wooden spoon to prevent burning. 
 When the milk is properly reduced, dish up and serve. 
 
 744. PUR^E OF CARROTS. 
 
 Scrape, clean, cut in slices, and blanch for ten minutes 
 half a dozen nice long carrots ; then proceed for the puree 
 as for mashed turnips (No. 235), and serve. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 369 
 
 745. CELERY WITH BEEF MARROW. 
 Select six heads of fresh celery, trim the outside leaves, 
 cut the roots to a point and the green parts straight, 
 leaving each head about six inches long; then cut these 
 lengthwise, in halves, and wash well. Blanch in boiling 
 water for ten minutes, and immerse in cold water. When 
 properly drained, put them carefully in a stewpan with a 
 pint and a half of good broth; season with salt and 
 pepper; simmer gently for about an hour; when well 
 glazed, dish up on a hot dish. Have ready about two 
 ounces of beef marrow boiled for four minutes in salt 
 water; add it to the glaze in the stewpan; toss it and 
 mash it well ; squeeze the juice of half a lemon ; toss again ; 
 then pour it over the celery; and serve. 
 
 746. CELERY AU GRATIN. 
 
 Trim, cut in halves, and blanch six heads of celery as 
 in the foregoing, then braize it in broth, properly seasoned, 
 for an hour ; after which, dish it up as before, but without 
 marrow and lemon -juice; sprinkle the top with grated 
 cheese, put the dish in the oven to get brown ; then pour 
 a gill of good gravy over, and serve. 
 
 747. CELERY WITH GRAVY, 
 
 Trim as in the foregoing and blanch for ten minutes 
 six whole heads of celery, then immerse them in cold water, 
 drain, and put them in a stewpan with a pint and a half of 
 broth and an ounce of butter ; season with salt and pepper ; 
 cover the stewpan and simmer for an hour and a half; 
 when well done, dish up, pour the remainder of the gravy 
 over, and serve. 
 
 2 A 
 
370 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 748. VEGETABLE MARROW. BUTTER SAUCE. 
 
 Cut the vegetable marrows, according to their size, in 
 two, four, or six, lengthwise ; peel and remove all the 
 seed, and then drop them into boiling, salt water and 
 simmer till tender. When done, drain them carefully j 
 dish the pieces inside up, pour some Butter sauce (No. 216) 
 over, and serve. 
 
 749. VEGETABLE MARROW, HOUSEWIFE STYLE. 
 
 Select three small vegetable marrows about four inches 
 long, peel, cut them lengthwise in quarters, and remove the 
 seed. Blanch for five minutes in boiling water ; drain 
 and put them in a frying-pan with an ounce of butter and 
 half a gill of salad-oil, previously made hot; fry on a 
 brisk fire; season with salt and pepper; and when done, 
 sprinkle two tablespoonfuls of grated cheese, dish up, and 
 
 750. VEGETABLE MARROWS A L'ITALIENNE. 
 
 Prepare and blanch three marrows as in No. 749; when 
 drained, fry them till cooked, with two ounces of butter ; 
 when tender, dish them up, cover with Tomato sauce, and 
 serve. 
 
 Note. — Marrows fried in butter can be served with a 
 Sharp, Espagnole, Velout6, or Bechamel sauce. 
 
 75L JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. BUTTER SAUCE. 
 
 Scrub and wash well in plenty of water a pound of 
 Jerusalem artichokes ; peel and boil them in salt water 
 for about fifteen minutes. When done, drain them upon 
 a cloth ; dish up, pour soiae Butter sauce (No. 216) over, 
 and serve. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 371 
 
 762. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES A L'lTALIENNE. 
 
 Wash and peel a pound of artichokes as in No. 751, blanch 
 them in boiling salt water for five minutes, then drain and 
 put them in a stewpan with an ounce of melted butter. 
 Moisten with half a pint of broth, season with salt, pepper, 
 and nutmeg, and simmer very gently for about twenty-five 
 minutes, with the stewpan covered, taking care to turn 
 them, in order to acquire a deep yellow colour. When 
 done, dish them up, squeeze the juice of a lemon over 
 the remainder of the glaze, pour it over the artichokes, 
 and serve. 
 
 Note. — Pickled Jerusalem artichokes prepared in the 
 following manner eat very well with cold meat : — 
 
 Wash and peel four pounds of artichokes as previ- 
 ously described, cut these in thin slices, boil for five 
 minutes in enough vinegar to soak them, and properly 
 seasoned with salt, a dozen cloves, and two dozen pepper- 
 corns ; pour the lot into an earthenwai'e pickle-jar, let the 
 contents get cool, and then cover with a cork. It will keep 
 for months, and any quantity can be taken out as wanted. 
 
 753. GREEN ARTICHOKES. BUTTER SAUCE. 
 Cut half an inch off the top of six artichokes, pare off 
 the bottoms and loose leaves, and boil them in plenty of 
 salt water for about three-quarters of an hour ; drain them 
 upside down on a cloth, and remove the fibrous substance 
 from the inside with the handle of a spoon, then dish up on 
 a napkin, and serve with Butter sauce (No. 216) in a sauce- 
 boat apart. 
 
 754. ARTICHOKES A LA BARIGOULE. 
 
 Trim six artichokes as in the foregoing, boil them in the 
 same way, and remove the inside in a similar manner, then 
 
372 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 squeeze the water out, and season thera slightly with salt 
 and pepper. Meanwhile pour a gill of salad-oil into a 
 frying-pan, and when hot, fry the top of the leaves in it 
 for about three minutes, then the bottoms in a similar way, 
 and drain the artichokes upside down on a cloth. Chop 
 up fine half a pound of fresh and trimmed mushrooms, 
 a handful of parsley, and four shalots, put these into a 
 stewpan with three ounces of scraped fat bacon and an 
 ounce of butter ; season with salt, pepper, and a little 
 chopped thyme; fry the lot for about seven minutes, 
 stirring the while ; then lay it on a plate and divide it in 
 six parts ; put each part of this mixture in each artichoke ; 
 place a thin slice of fat bacon on the top of each ; tie 
 round with string to keep them in shape ; put them in a 
 saut^-pan ; moisten with half a pint of good stock ; bake 
 in the oven for fifteen minutes ; remove the string, dish 
 them up, and serve. 
 
 755. ARTICHOKES A L'lTALIENNK. 
 
 Trim, boil, and remove the inside of six artichokes as in 
 the previous number ; dish them up, pour half a pint of 
 boiling Sharp Italian sauce (No. 205) in the centre, and 
 serve. 
 
 756. FRIED ARTICHOKES. 
 
 Trim and pare off four nice artichokes as described 
 for artichokes, Butter sauce. Cut them lengthwise in 
 slices a quarter of an inch thick, remove the fibrous sub- 
 stance close to the bottom, and throw the pieces in cold 
 water, with a gill of vinegar to keep them white. Prepare 
 a batter with a gill of salad-oil, a quarter of a pound of 
 flour, four yolks of eggs, salt and pepper to taste. When 
 these ingredients have been well mixed together, if it is 
 found that the batter is too tbin, add a little flour ; if too 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 373 
 
 thick, a little cold water ; then drain the pieces of arti- 
 chokes, and with the hand mix them well in the batter till 
 they are all evenly coated ; after which, fry them in hot 
 fat, previously heated to the right temperature for that 
 purpose. When of a nice brown colour draw them out, 
 and drain on a wire sieve ; sprinkle with salt, dish them 
 up on a napkin, and serve. 
 
 Note. — In addition to the above, artichokes either plain 
 boiled or raw, can also be eaten a la poivrade, a mixture 
 of oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper. 
 
 757. SEA-KALE. BUTTER SAUCE. 
 
 Trim, clean, and tie the sea-kale up in small bunches, 
 put these in boiling salt water and boil for about twenty 
 minutes; when tender, drain and dish up on a napkin 
 (after having removed the string), and serve with Butter 
 sauce (No. 216) in a sauce-boat apart. 
 
 758. ASPARAGUS WITH BUTTER SAUCE. 
 
 Scrape along the white stalks of the asparagus with a knife 
 held in a slanting position ; pare off the loose leaves from 
 the heads; plunge in cold water; then tie them up in 
 bundles of about twenty-five in each according to size, 
 taking care to have all the heads turned the same way; 
 cut the stalks even. Put the asparagus in boiling water, 
 with half an ounce of salt for each quart of water; boil 
 for twelve or fifteen minutes according to size; and 
 when done, which is ascertained by pressing with the 
 fingers, take them out by the string and immerse at 
 once in cold water ; then drain immediately, dish them up 
 on a napkin, remove the string, and serve with Butter 
 sauce (No. 216) in a sauce-boat apart. 
 
 Note. — Asparagus should not be done too much ; in fact, 
 
374 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 it ought to remain always firm to the touch, and should 
 never be kept in water after being cooked, as it then gets 
 flabby and spongy, like all other boiled vegetables, which 
 will be spoiled in the same way if allowed to reiiain in 
 water after being cooked. 
 
 759. ASPARAGUS A LA MILANAISE. 
 
 Scrape, tie, and boil the asparagus required as in No. 758 j 
 dish up on a napkin, and serve with a sauce-boat containing 
 one ounce of grated parmesan cheese and two ounces of 
 fresh butter, previously melted and well mixed "together 
 and seasoned with pepper. 
 
 760. ASPARAGUS WITH BROWN BUTTER. 
 
 - Prepare and cook as above the asparagus ; drain and 
 dish up on a napkin, and serve with some brown butter 
 (No. 1 64) previously made for that purpose in a sauce-boat 
 apart. 
 
 761. ASPARAGUS WITH OIL AND VINEGAR. 
 
 Trim and boil the asparagus as described in the fore 
 going, and after having dipped it in cold water and drained, 
 let it get quite cold (if laid on the ice with a cloth all the 
 better). When ready dish up in the usual way, and serve 
 ■with oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper, in a sauce-boat, all well 
 mixed together to taste. 
 
 Note. — The above style of serving asparagus is the most 
 usual on the Continent. 
 
 762. SPINACH A LITALIENNE. " 
 Pick oflf the stalks of three pounds of spinach, wash well 
 iri two waters, drain upon a sieve or colander, and put it 
 in about three quarts of boiling water with half an ounce 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 375 
 
 of salt, and boil for six or seven minutes ; then turn the 
 spinach upon the sieve or colander and immerse in plenty of 
 cold water tiU quite cold (otherwise it will assume a yellow 
 tinge). Afterwards squeeze the water out, spread the 
 spinach on the chopping-board, and chop slightly with a 
 knife ; then fry in a saut^-pan with two ounces of anchovy 
 butter till done, adding meanwhile two ounces of Malaga 
 raisins (previously washed in lukewarm water), when well 
 mixed together over the fire, dish up, garnish with croiitons 
 fried in butter, and serve. 
 
 763. SPINACH, HOUSEWIFE STYLE. 
 
 Pick, wash, blanch, and chop three pounds of spinach as 
 described in No. 762 ; then fry in a saute-pan, with two 
 ounces of butter, two cloves of garlic, and four anchovies 
 chopped fine, till done; season with salt, pepper, and 
 nutmeg, and just before dishing up add a little fi'esh butter, 
 stir the whole well together, and serve with croiitons fried 
 in butter. 
 
 764. SPINACH A LA PROVENQALE. 
 
 Prepare, blanch, and chop up the spinach as above ; after 
 which, fry it with a gill of salad-oil and two cloves of garlic 
 chopped fine till cookeij ; season with salt and pepper, dish 
 ' it up with croijtons,-and serve. 
 
 765. SPINACH WITH BUTTER. 
 
 Pick and wash three pounds of spinach as described in 
 the foregoing, then boil till it becomes quite tender and 
 soft to the touch, drain the water, immerse it in cold, and 
 afterwards squeeze all the water from it between two plates, 
 chop fine and rub it through a coarse wire sieve ; then put it 
 in a stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter ; season with 
 
376 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg ; stir the spinach over the 
 fire with a wooden spoon until it becomes quite warm, then 
 add gradually half a pint of good broth, still stirring the 
 spinach. When well mixed together and made quite hot, 
 add a little more fresh butter, and when this is melted and 
 properly mixed with the spinach, dish it up, garnish round 
 with croiitons fried in butter, and serve. 
 
 766, SPINACH WITH CREAM. 
 
 Prepare the spinach as above, stir it with a wooden 
 spoon over the fire in a stewpan, with two ounces of butter 
 and seasoned with salt and nutmeg till warm; then add 
 gradually half a pint of cream, a little butter and a dessert- 
 spoonful of pounded sugar ; continue the stirring over the 
 fire till the lot is well mixed together and hot, and dish 
 up as in the foregoing. 
 
 767. BOILED PEAS A L'ANGLAISE. 
 
 Put a quart of fresh shelled peas in two quarts of boiling 
 water, with a few sprigs of mint and seasoned with a small 
 teaspoonful of salt. Boil quickly till done, which will 
 take between fifteen and twenty minutes ; then drain and 
 put ihem in a saut6-pan with two ounces of fresh butter, 
 sprinkle a little salt and pepper, toss them till the butter 
 is melted, and serve. 
 
 768, STEWED PEAS WITH BACON. 
 Remove the rind of a quarter of a pound of streaky bacon 
 
 and cut it in dice half an inch thick ; fry these in a stew- 
 pan with one ounce of butter for five minutes, then sprinkle 
 two tablespoonfuls of flour and stir over the fire for four 
 minutes longer ; after which, add a pint of water, one quart 
 of peas, and a few green onions, stew for about half an hour 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 377 
 
 with the stewpan covered, then season according to taste, 
 remove the onions, skim off the fat, and serve. 
 
 769. PEAS A LA FRAN^AISE. 
 
 Put a quart of fresh shelled peas in a stewpan with a 
 gill of water, a few green onions and the heart of a cabbage- 
 lettuce cut in four, three ounces of butter, a teaspoonful 
 of salt, and the same quantity of lump-sugar. Set the 
 stewpan on a slow fire to stewi gently for about half an 
 hour with the lid on. Meanwhile knead together a table- 
 spoonful of flour with two ounces of butter, and when the 
 peas are done add this paste to them. Toss the stewpan 
 over the fire till the butter is melted and the peas properly 
 thickened, then taste if well seasoned, and serve. 
 
 Note. — If tinned peas are used, throw them in boiling 
 water, drain, season and finish as with fresh peas. 
 
 770. FRENCH BEANS. 
 Pick and remove the strings of one pound of French 
 beans, and if large and old, shred them lengthwise; then 
 throw them in plenty of boiling water with a good pinch 
 of salt, and boil on a brisk fire till tender, which must be 
 ascertained by trying them; after which, drain them in a 
 -colander, dish up with an ounce of fresh butter in a lump, 
 sprinkle a little salt over, and serve. 
 
 771. FRENCH BEANS SAUTf S. 
 Pick the stalks and strings of a pound of French beans, 
 and boil them as in the previous number; then drain 
 them well and put iu a frying-pan with two ounces of 
 melted butter; fry these over a brisk fire for about ten 
 minutes ; season with a little salt and chopped parsley, 
 toss the contents well, squeeze the juice of a lemon over, 
 toss again, and serve. 
 
378- PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 772. FRENCH BEANS A LA MAflRE D'HOTEL. 
 
 Remove the corners and strings of a pound of French 
 beans ; boil and drain them as previously described. 
 Meanwhile have ready in a stewpan a gill of either 
 Bechamel or Supreme sauce, with two ounces of fresh 
 butter, a teaspoonful of blanched and chopped parsley, 
 Reasoned with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, well mixed 
 together over the fire ; then add the beans, toss the whole 
 well together, and when quite hot squeeze the juice of 
 half a lemon over, toss again, and serve. 
 
 773. DRIED WHITE HARICOT BEANS. 
 
 Soak one pound of dried haricot beans, in plenty of cold 
 water, for about twelve hours previous to cooking, then 
 pick out all the imperfect ones and throw the best into 
 a stewpan with three quarts of cold water and a table- 
 spoonful of salt. Boil with the stewpan covered till ten- 
 der, drain the water through a colander and return the 
 beans in the pan, with three ounces of fresh butter and 
 a teaspoonful of chopped parsley ;. season with salt and 
 pepper, and moisten with a little broth or the liquor of the 
 beans ; toss the beans till the butter is melted, and serve. 
 
 774. HARICOT BEANS, HOUSEWIFE STYLE, 
 
 Soak a pound of haricot beans as in No. 773, cook them 
 in salt water for a quarter of an hour, and drain in the 
 usual way. In the meantime have ready hot in a stewpan 
 a pint of mutton gravy, seasoned with salt, pepper, and 
 nutmeg ; put the beans in it, and continue the cooking till 
 tender, add an ounce of fresh butter, and serve. 
 
 Note. — Plain boiled haricot beans are also served as 
 a salad ; in that case they should be cold, and seasoned 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 379 
 
 with oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, and a teaspoonful of either 
 chopped parsley, tarragon, or chevril. 
 
 775, BROAD BEANS A LA POULETTE. 
 
 Boil in plenty of water till tender, with a good pinch 
 of salt in it, two pounds of freshly shelled broad beans. 
 Drain, and remove their skin ; then stir in the same stew- 
 pan for three minutes over the fire, half an ounce of butter, 
 with a similar quantity of flour, and make a liaison with 
 the yolks of two eggs, half a gill of cream, and another 
 half ounce of butter. When properly thickened, add ithe 
 beans to the sauce, with a small teaspoonful of pounded 
 sugar ; toss the stewpan to mix well, and serve. 
 
 iVb^e.— Broad beans can also be prepared a la maitre 
 d'hotel, and in the same manner as haricot beans, for 
 which see above. 
 
 776. PUR^E OF BROAD BEANS. 
 
 Boil till tender two pounds of broad beans, and drain 
 them as described, then rub them with a wooden spoon 
 over a fine wire sieve, and return the puree to the stewpan, 
 with either a gill of cream. Bechamel sauce, or a good 
 gravy, and two ounces of butter ; stir the contents over 
 the fire till hot, and serve. 
 
 777. LENTILS A LA MAItRE D'HSTEL. 
 
 Soak for about four hours and wash one pound of lentils, 
 and boil them in about two quarts of water and a dessert- 
 spoonful of salt tUl done, then drain them in the usual 
 way. Meanwhile prepare a -quarter of a pound of maitre 
 d'h8tel butter, to which mix a tablespoonful or two of the 
 liquor in which the lentils were boiled ; add these to the 
 sauce, toss them up till hot and well-mixed, and serve. 
 
380 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 778. LENTILS, HOUSEWIFE STYLE. 
 
 Wash, cook, and drain a pound of lentils, as in No. 777. 
 Meanwhile cut about two ounces of streaky bacon (free 
 from rind) in very small dice, and fry them with half an 
 ounce of butter for three minutes. When the lentils have 
 been properly drained, return them to the stewpan with 
 either a gill of Espagnole sauce or good gravy; add the 
 bacon to it, stir, and serve. 
 
 779. STUFFED TOMATOES A LA PROVEN9ALE. 
 
 Select six firm tomatoes of equal size and ripeness. Put 
 them in boiling water for two minutes, in order to help the 
 removal of the skin ; when peeled, cut them across in 
 halves, remove the seeds, and place them in a saute-pan, 
 well spread with salad oil, by the side of the fire. Mean- 
 while chop very finely an onion, half a handful of parslej', 
 six large fresh mushrooms, and two anchovies ; fry these^ 
 for five minutes in a stewpan with about an ounce of 
 scraped fat bacon, season with salt, pepper and chopped 
 thyme, and moisten with either good gravy or Espagnole 
 sauce ; then put this stufiing over the twelve halves of 
 tomatoes. Sprinkle some fine raspings over, set the 
 saut^-pan over a brisk fire for about five minutes, then in a 
 hot oven for seven or eight minutes or till they are properly 
 baked, after which dish carefully without breaking, and 
 serve. 
 
 780. GRILLED TOMATOES. 
 
 Remove the stalks of six ripe tomatoes, cut them across in 
 halves, and set them (skin downward) on a clear fire to grill 
 seven or eight minutes, according to size. Move them 
 gently over the bars of the grill, without however, turning 
 them. When cooked, season each half with salt and pepper. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 381 
 
 dish them on buttered toast, previously made for that pur- 
 pose, and serve. 
 
 Note. — Tomatoes are also made into salad. 
 
 Remarks on Mushrooms. 
 
 Mushrooms should be soaked in water with a little salt 
 and vinegar, then washed in plain water and wiped dry 
 before cooking, and as a safeguard against poisoning, should 
 be cooked with a peeled onion. If the onion remains 
 white, the mushrooms are good ; but if the onion becomes 
 black or even slightly coloured, they are poisonous, and 
 should at once be destroyed. A piece of silver thrown 
 with the mushrooms when being cooked will also answer 
 the same purpose, and be distinguished by the same 
 process. 
 
 781. MUSHROOMS AU GRATIN. 
 
 Select a dozen large mushrooms ; cut the stalks and 
 remove the skin ; place the mushrooms (the hollow part 
 upwards) in a well buttered saut6-pan ; fill them with a 
 similar preparation to that for stuffed tomatoes, but 
 substitute the cut stalks chopped fine for mushrooms ; 
 strew some fine raspings over them, and put the saute-pan 
 in the hot oven to gratinate for about a quarter of an hour, 
 then dish them up in a pyramidal form, and serve with 
 some good gravy apart. 
 
 782. MUSHROOMS A LA BORDELAISE. 
 
 Clean and trim the mushrooms as in the foregoing, 
 put them in a frying-pan with some salad oil and a 
 clove or two of garlic chopped very fine; fry over a 
 moderate fire for ten or twelve minutes, and season with 
 salt, pepper, and a little chopped parsley. When done, 
 
3^82 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 squeeze the juice of half a lemon, dish up the mushrooms, 
 and serve. 
 
 783. MUSHROOMS A LA MILANAISE. 
 
 Select, clean, and trim some nice mushrooms, marinade 
 them for an hour in a little oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper ; 
 after vrhich wipe and flour them ; then pass them in the 
 yolks of eggs well beaten and mixed with some grated 
 Parmesan cheese, seasoned with salt, pepper, and allspice, 
 and fry in butter and oil, previously made hot in a frying- 
 pan for that purpose. When of a nice brown colour and 
 crisp, dish up and serve. 
 
 Remarks on Onions, 
 
 The qualities and virtue of the onion are great, and they 
 will never be too much known or appreciated. 
 
 The onion is the most wholesome of all vegetables, and 
 is at the same time a safeguard against many ailments. 
 
 Whenever and wherever a person is suffering from any 
 infectious fever, let a peeled onion be kept on a plate in 
 the room of the patient. No one will ever catch the 
 disease, provided the said onion be replaced every day by 
 one freshly peeled, as then it will have absorbed the whole 
 of the poisonous atmosphere of the room, and become black. 
 
 Onions are good for a cold, cooked as well as raw ; they 
 can be served as a vegetable, and are constantly in request 
 for culinary purposes. 
 
 Garlic is also a safeguard against cholera, by keeping a 
 clove in the mouth as you would a lozenge for cough. 
 
 784. STEWED ONIONS. 
 
 Peel four Spanish onions of equal size, and boil them 
 for a quarter of an hour in plain water; drain and put 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 383 
 
 them in a saut6-pan, previously spread with fresh butter ; 
 moisten with a good pint of broth, and season with salt, 
 pepper, and a dessert-spoonful of pounded sugar. Put them 
 in a hot oven to bake for about twenty minutes, taking 
 care- to baste them often when nearly done, set the pan 
 over a brisk fire, roll the onions in their liquor, and when 
 well glazed, dish up, pour the remainder of the glaze over, 
 and serve. 
 
 Note. — Onions can also be served stewed in milk. Pro- 
 ceed as above, but substitute a quart of milk for the broth. 
 
 785. REMARKS ON SALADS AND SALAD DRESSING. 
 
 Man eats nearly everything, either cooked or uncooked, 
 and foremost among the latter are herbs and roots, prepared 
 for food with special condiments and ingredients, and called 
 
 The raw materials used in France and Italy for salads 
 are numerous and varied : for instance, celeriac, radishes, 
 rampion, beetroot- bulb, and the potent onion; the steins 
 and leaf-stalks of asparagus, celery, purslane and arti-. 
 chokes; the leaves of lettuce, endive, cress, dandelion, and 
 chicory; the flowers of the bitter pungent nasturtium, 
 and the fruits and seed-pods of cucumbers, capsicums, 
 tomatoes, beans, peas, and the like; as a matter of fact, 
 there are more things in earth and field capable of salad 
 treatment than the somewhat prejudiced English gastro- 
 nomic philosophy ever dreamt of. 
 
 There is an art in dressing a salad really well, as no 
 ingredient should be more prominent in its taste than 
 the other. There must be neither too much of it nor too 
 much in it, but just enough of each. 
 
 Although many men of high social positions have won 
 
384 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 honour and distinction in salad making, the gift of pre- 
 paring such tasty delicacies is essentially womanly. To 
 her delicate fingers must be left the care of washing the 
 leaves separately and drying them by affectionate pressure 
 in a white cloth ; let her reach the acme of perfection by 
 rubbing the mystic "chapon" or crust of bread with the 
 fragrant clove of garlic. Let her dry the salad-bowl, and put 
 the pepper in with moderation and the salt to taste ; then, 
 like one of the five wise virgins, she will have her olive oil 
 to hand, to pour in two and a half tablespoonfuls to each 
 one of French vinegar, together with a touch of mustard ; 
 and if to these are added half a teaspoonful of chopped 
 tarragon or clievril, and the whole be properly stirred and 
 blended with a wooden spoon and fork, she will have 
 concocted the best salad dressing desirable, and will only 
 have to add, when required, the carefully-wiped leaves and 
 " chapon " and toss them about, to bid them absorb the 
 magic mixture. 
 
 In addition to the above-mentioned herbs, plain boiled 
 potatoes, carrots, cauliflower, beetroot, haricot beans, 
 trufiles, and any kind of cold cooked fish, lobster, crab, and 
 ■eggs, are also made into salads. Let the potatoes, carrots, 
 beetroot, truffles, and eggs be thinly sliced, and the cauli- 
 flowers cut into small heads ; substitute chopped onion for 
 garlic, or omit it altogether if not agreeable, and spread 
 a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley. 
 
 786. REMARKS^ ON SANDWICHES AND CANAPES. 
 
 Sandwiches are made with ham, heef, chicken, pickled 
 tongue, smoked salmon and herrings, tinned sardines and an- 
 chovies (fish as well as paste), caviare, hard-boiled eggs, salad, 
 watercress, or mustard cress. "With respect to meat sand- 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 385 
 
 wiches, the process is always th"e same. Select a tin loaf, 
 which should be a day stale, cut as many slices one eighth 
 of an inch thick as there are sandwiches required; then 
 blend with a knife a little mustard with fresh butter, 
 spread this on the slices of bread, cover evenly one half of 
 these with the meat, previously cut very thin for that pur- 
 pose, then reverse the other half slices of buttered bread 
 over the meat. Press the sandwiches slightly with the 
 hand, and pile four of them together ; then trim them with 
 a sharp knife, by cutting ■ off all the crust, and cut them 
 through either in square or triangular form and dish them 
 up on a napkin. 
 
 Note. — When beef or chicken sandwiches are made, salt 
 should be sprinkled over the meat before being covered, 
 and with chicken the mustard must be omitted. 
 
 787. SARDINES ON TOAST. 
 
 Fish sandwiches are made differently to those of meat or 
 poultry. The slices of bread are toasted and buttered 
 whilst hot, then sardines, split in halves, boned, and scaled, 
 are laid on the toast and served with the fish uppermost. 
 
 Note. — Smoked salmon, as well as anchovies and caviare, 
 are served in the same way ; but with respect to salmon the 
 slices must be cut very thin, and they can be served either 
 raw or broiled on oiled paper on a gridiron over a slow fire 
 for one minute each side and served when cold. 
 
 788. ANCHOVY CANAPES. 
 
 Cut as many slices of crumb of bread, two and a half 
 inches long, by one and a half wide and a quarter of an 
 inch thick, as there will be canapes required ; fry these in 
 clarified butter to a nice golden colour; and when cold, 
 spread a little anchovy butter on each. Steep some 
 
386 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 anchovies in cold water ; dry thera with a cloth ; split, bone 
 and trim them j then place four halves lengthwise on each 
 piece of bread, leaving three small spaces between each 
 fillet ; fill the first with chopped hard-boiled yolk of egg, 
 the middle with chopped parsley, and the third with chopped 
 hard-boiled white of egg; dish on a napkin and serve. 
 
 Note. — Anchovy paste can be substituted for the fillets; 
 in that case, after having spread the paste over the bread, 
 add a slice of hard-boiled egg in the centre. 
 
 789. SMOKED HERRING CANAPES, 
 
 Cut and fry the bread as described in 788 ; spread these 
 pieces with anchovy butter, and cover them with smoked 
 herrings, previously trimmed, skinned, boned, and cut into 
 fillets lengthwise, and steeped in olive oil for some four 
 hours, then wiped and moistened again with fresh oil ; and 
 serve, properly dressed, on a napkin. 
 
CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 REMARKS ON PASTE AND SWEET DISHES. 
 
 I HAVE already given the recipes for ordinary paste (No. 
 95) to make tagliatelli with, and puff paste (Nos. 318 
 and 3 ig) for patties, bojichtes, pies, &c. ; — I will now pro- 
 ceed with a proper description of paste for raised pies, short 
 paste for tarts, brioche paste, almond paste, &c., &c., to 
 make cakes and pastry with.* 
 
 790, SHORT PASTE FOR RAISED PIES. 
 
 Put one pound of sifted flour on the slab, spread it out 
 in the centre, then add a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a 
 pound of butter, and a gill and a half of cold water. Pro- 
 ceed to work the whole together with the hands into a very 
 firm. paste in the following manner : When the ingredients 
 have been worked into a paste, bring it to the edge of the 
 slab, then use the palms of both hands alternately with great 
 force to spread and divide the paste into small parts. 
 Sprinkle a few drops of water over the paste and knead it 
 together, this is called " breaking and kneading " and must 
 be repeated four times. The paste must then be gathered 
 
 * With respect to pastry and sweet dishes, their names and styles are 
 legion, and are so complicated in their shapes, colours, and tastes, that 
 they furnish enough materials for a large work of their own. I will 
 limit myself to simply giving what I consider the most useful and practical 
 recipes, and at the same time recommend Mr. Jules Gouff^'a most 
 valuable "Eoyal Book of Pastry and Confectionery" to those who wish 
 to know more on this subject. 
 
 38? 
 
388 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 up, placed in a clean cloth, pressed together, and is ready 
 for use. 
 
 791. SHORT PASTE FOR TARTS. 
 Spread a pound of sifted flour on the slab with a hollow 
 in the centre, then add half a pound of butter, two ounces 
 of pounded sugar, a pinch of salt, two whole eggs, and 
 rather more than a gill of water. Work these together 
 with the hands to a firm paste, and use it- to cover fruit 
 tarts, and lining tartlets, &c. 
 
 792. BRIOCHE PASTE. 
 
 Spread a quarter of a pound of sifted flour on the slab, 
 with a small well in the centre ; then put half an ounce 
 of German yeast in it, and dissolve with a little tepid 
 water ; when this is done add sufficient water to mix the 
 whole into a rather soft paste. Knead this into the form 
 of a round ball, put it into a stewpan capable of containing 
 three times its quantity, score it with a knife round the 
 sides. Put the lid on, and set to rise in a rather warm 
 place. In summer the fermentation will proceed satis- 
 factorily if it is merely placed on the kitchen table, or in 
 some such place of moderate warmth. This is termed 
 setting the sponge. Meanwhile put three-quarters of a 
 pound of flour on the slab, spread as before with a well, in 
 the centre, put a teaspbonful each of salt and pounded 
 sugar, together with two tablespoonf uls of water to dissolve 
 them, after which add ten ounces of butter and six whole 
 eggs. Work the whole together with the hands, until well 
 mixed, first by rubbing it with both fists held flat on the 
 slab, and moving them to and fro, so as to thoroughly 
 reduce any remaining lumps in the paste. By the time 
 the paste is mixed, the sponge will probably have risen 
 sufficiently. To be perfect, it must rise to three times the 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 389 
 
 original size. When spread out on the paste prepared to 
 receive it, it should have the appearance of a sponge, from 
 which it takes its name. 
 
 Both the above should then be thoroughly mixed together, 
 and placed in a napkin spread in a basin, with a little flour 
 shaken over ; shake again a little flour over the paste, fold 
 the ends of the napkin over all, and set the basin in a cool 
 place free from any current of air. 
 
 This kind of paste should be made the evening previous 
 to the day it is required. The first thing the following 
 morning, the brioche paste must be turned off the napkin 
 on to the slab ; shake some flour under and over it ; fold 
 the paste over half a dozen times, pressing it down with 
 the knuckles each time ; put the paste back into the napkin 
 in the same way as before ; and about three hours after- 
 wards knead again in a similar manner, previously to its 
 being baked. 
 
 If this paste when finished, appears to be full of small 
 globules of air, and is perfectly elastic to the touch, it is 
 certain to be well made. 
 
 After that, spread slightly with butter a baking-sheet, 
 and form the paste into buns or rolls ; egg these well with 
 the paste-brush, make a little round incision on the top, 
 and bake in a brisk oven for about twenty-five minutes. 
 
 Note. — Parmesan or Gruy^re cheese is sometimes in- 
 troduced in brioches, in which case a quarter of a pound 
 of the former should be grated, or the same quantity of the 
 latter cut up in dice and well mixed with the paste. 
 
 793. ALMOND PASTE. 
 
 Blanch in boiling water for three minutes half a pound of 
 
 Jordan almonds ; cool, peel, wash, drain, and wipe them in 
 
 a cloth ; then pound them to a paste in a mortar ; moisten 
 
 with a few drops of lemon juice while they are being 
 
390 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 pounded, to prevent them from turning oily ; when this is 
 done, add to the mortar half a pound of butter, half a 
 pound of pounded sugar, one tablespoonful of orange-flower 
 water, and a pinch of salt ; pound all these well together, 
 adding three eggs, broken one after the other'; when w^ell 
 mixed, put in a basin. Make one pound of puff paste as 
 described in No. 319, give it five turns, cut it into two 
 equal pieces, and roll with the rolling-pin each separately to 
 half an inch thick, then put one half on a buttered baking- 
 sheet, spread the almond paste on it, leaving a margin of 
 about one inch and a half all round ; wet the edge of the 
 paste and lay the other piece over, press with the thumb all 
 round to stick the two together, egg the top, and bake 
 in the oven for fifty minutes. Let the cake cool, then 
 sprinkle some pounded sugar over, and serve. 
 
 794. VICTORIA CAKE. 
 
 The following ingredients are required to make the above 
 cake : One pound of sifted flour, ten ounces of fresh butter, 
 six eggs, three ounces of pounded sugar, three ounces of 
 pounded almonds, four ounces of dried cherries, two ounces 
 of green citron shred fine, one teaspoonful of cinnamon 
 powder, a gill of whipped cream, half an ounce of German 
 yeast, half a gill of brandy, and one teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 Place the butter in a good-sized white kitchen pan, and 
 work it with a clean weoden spoon for about ten minutes, 
 by which time the butter should present the appearance 
 of thick cream ; then add three eggs, the cinnamon, pounded 
 sugar and almonds, the cherries, citron, brandy, and about 
 one-fourth part of the flour; work the whole quickly to- 
 gether for a few minutes with the spoon, then add gradually 
 the remainder of the flour and eggs, still working the 
 paste with the wooden spoon. "When the lot has been 
 used up, spread the paste out in the centre of the pan, 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 391 
 
 and add to it the yeast and salt dissolved in a spoonful 
 of tepid water, and the cream, whipped first before being 
 added. When the paste is properly mixed, take a tin hoop 
 measuring about six inches in diameter by three deep, 
 line the inside of this hoop with buttered paper cut three 
 and a half inches wide, lay this on a baking- sheet lined 
 also with a sheet of buttered paper, put the paste in the 
 mould and let it rise by fermentation, to twice its original 
 quantity, by keeping it in a moderately warm place, then 
 put in an oven, not too hot, to be baked till of a light 
 colour. 
 
 Note. — It is impossible to determine on the exact length 
 of time that this or any other cake should remain in the 
 oven before it is done. This depends mainly upon the con- 
 struction of the oven, but the way to ascertain whether a 
 cake is properly baked is by running a small wooden 
 skewer down its centre ; if this should be found dry and 
 free from paste when withdrawn, the cake may be safely 
 turned out of the hoop, when it will be found of a light 
 colour, and have a smooth surface. 
 
 795. PARISIAN CAKE. 
 
 Have the following ingredients ready to make the paste 
 required for Parisian cake : One pound of sifted flour, ten 
 ounces of fresh butter, three ounces of pounded sugar, 
 four whole eggs and four yolks, half a pint of cream, four 
 ounces of Jordan almonds and one of bitter ditto, two 
 ounces of candied orange peel, half an ounce of yeast, and 
 a teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 Shred in small narrow strips the orange peel. Blanch 
 and remove the hulls from the almonds, then wash and 
 pound them to a very soft paste, adding a few drops of 
 water to prevent them becoming oily, and mix with the 
 
392 
 
 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 cream; let them steep thus for half an hour in a cool 
 place. 
 
 For mixing this paste, follow in all respects the directions 
 given for Victoria paste, adding ,the orange peel after having 
 put the paste in the mould, and mixing it with the yeast 
 dissolved in a little tepid water ; after which let it ferment, 
 and bake as described in the foregoing. 
 
 Note. — It is advisable to put these cakes back in the 
 oven for two or three minutes after they are turned out - 
 of the mould, to prevent their becoming shrivelled on the 
 surface, or shrinking and falling in. 
 
 796. SAVOY CAKE. 
 
 Ingredients : Four ounces and a half each of potato flour 
 and finest Vienna flour, fourteen eggs, and one pound of 
 pounded sugar. Separate the yolks from the whites of the 
 eggs, put the former in a basin and the whites into an 
 egg-bowl, in a cool place, add the sugar to the yolks, with 
 a pinch of salt and a few drops of either oraiige, lemon, 
 orange-flower, vanilla, or bitter almond essence. 
 
 Work these together with a wooden spoon until the 
 whole presents the appearance of a thick creamy batter, 
 then the whites must be whisked into a firm snowy froth. 
 Meanwhile let both flours be well mixed in with the batter, 
 and as soon as the whites are satisfactorily whisked, mix 
 them also with the paste by adding them in small quantities 
 at first, until it has become smoothly diluted, then add 
 the remainder of the ingredients, and mix thoroughly well 
 together. 
 
 Chop very fine one pound of either beef or veal suet, 
 then melt it in a stewpan and strain through a cloth, 
 pour this into the mould, turn it round in all directions, 
 so that the fat may touch all the angles and recesses, after- 
 wards pour it out, and turn the mould on a plate and let it 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 393 
 
 stand in a warm place for a few minutes, that the fat may 
 be entirely drained off; then shake about three-quarters 
 of a pound of finely-pounded sugar into the mould, in order 
 that it may effectually cover the whole of its inside with a 
 perfectly smooth surface. When this is done, pour the 
 mixture in the mould, put this on a baking-sheet in the 
 oven, which must be heated moderately, and particular 
 care taken to keep it closed as much as possible while the 
 cake is baking, and do not increase its temperature. 
 When the cake is of a light colour, it must be turned out 
 of the mould, reversed on the baking-sheet, and returned 
 to the oven for two or three minutes longer. 
 
 797. PLUM CAKE. 
 
 Ingredients required : One pound and a half each of 
 flour, currants, and butter ; one pound each of pounded 
 sugar and dried cherries slightly chopped, and one pound 
 of candied citron, orange and lemon peel in equal quantities 
 all shred small; half a pound of ground almonds, eight 
 whole eggs, half an ounce of ground spice, consisting of 
 cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg mixed in equal proportions, 
 a teaspoonful of salt, and a pint of brandy. 
 
 Put the butter in a large white earthen pan, and work 
 with a wooden spoon until it presents the appearance of 
 a creamy substance; then add gradually the flour, sugar, 
 and eggs, still working the paste with the wooden spoon. 
 When thoroughly mixed, add gradually also the remaining 
 ingredients and work it well together, then pour into a 
 convenient-sized tin hoop (previously lined with double 
 bands of buttered paper) and place it on a baking-sheet with 
 two sheets of buttered paper under the cake, and put it in 
 a moderately-heated oven to bake to a light colour, taking 
 care not to increase the heat during the operation. 
 
394 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 798. PLAIN SEED-CAKE. 
 
 Ingredients : Six eggs, half a pound each of pounded 
 sugar and butter, a teaspoonful of salt, half an ounce of 
 carraway-seeds, and one quartern of common dough. Spread 
 the dough on the slab, add the whole of the above-named 
 ingredients to it, and work well together with the hands 
 so as to mix the lot well with the dough. The eggs should 
 be added only two at a time. When the paste is ready, 
 put it into a plain mould, previously spread with butter, 
 and put it to rise in a warm place ; and as soon as the fer- 
 mentation has taken place in a satisfactory manner, put 
 the cake in the oven to bake till of a light colour. 
 
 799. POUND-CAKE. 
 
 Ingredients : One pound each of flour, butter, and 
 pounded sugar ; eight eggs, half a gill of brandy, a pinch 
 of salt, and a few drops of orange or lemon essence. Put 
 the butter in a large basin, work with a wooden spoon 
 until it assumes the appearance of a thick cream, then 
 add gradually the ilour, sugar and eggs, and when the 
 whole is .properly made into a paste, add the brandy, salt, 
 and essence. Mix well together with the spoon, and pour 
 it in any kind of mould, previously spread with butter, or in 
 a tin hoop lined with buttered paper. 
 
 800. SAVARIN CAKE. 
 
 Ingredients : One pound of flour, two ounces of sugar, 
 ten ounces of fresh butter, eight eggs, two ounces of shred 
 almonds, half an ounce of German yeast, and a teaspoonful 
 of salt. 
 
 Put one-fourth of the flour on the slab with the yeast, 
 and proceed to dissolve it as described for making brioche 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 395 
 
 paste, then place in a similar manner in a stewpan in a 
 warm place to ensure its gradual rising. In the meantime 
 dissolve the salt with a teaspoonful of tepid water in a large 
 white pan or basin, put the remainder of the flour with the 
 butter, sugar, and four eggs ; mix the whole together with 
 the right hand, beating up the paste until it easily leaves 
 the sides of the pan, then break in the other four eggs, and 
 work it for five minutes longer ; when the sponge has 
 risen to twice its original quantity, add it and mix it well 
 with the paste. Butter a cylinder mould, strew this with 
 the shred almonds, half fill the mould with the paste, let 
 it stand in a nioderate temperature, and when it has risen 
 to the top of the mould, put the savarin to bake in a 
 moderate oven for about an hour. When done turn the 
 cake out of the mould, let it cool for about fifteen minutes, 
 then pour over some hot syrup flavoured with Curasao or 
 other liqueur, and serve warm. 
 
 801. BABA. 
 
 Ingredients : One pound of flour, ten ounces of butter, 
 two ounces of pounded sugar, three ounces of Muscatel 
 raisins, two ounces of currants, one ounce of candied citron, 
 a small pinch of saffron (infused in half a gill of boiling 
 water), half a gill of either brandy or rum, a teaspoonful 
 of salt, eight eggs, and half an ounce of German yeast. 
 
 Dissolve the yeast with one-fourth of flour as in No. 
 800, and let it rise in the same manner ; meanwhile spread 
 out the remainder of the flour so as to form a well in the 
 centre, dissolve in this the salt with a few drops of tepid 
 water, then with it put the butter, sugar, and broken eggs ; 
 mix the lot thoroughly with the hands on the slab, and 
 work it well by gathering the paste up closely with the 
 hands, and jerk it down on the other part of the paste for 
 about five minutes, and as soon as the sponge is sufiiciently 
 
396 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY, 
 
 risen, spread it over the paste and mix both lightly together ; 
 add the stoned raisins and some well-washed currants, 
 candied citron chopped fine, the rum, and the infusion of 
 saffron ; work the ' whole well together, spread a large 
 mould with butter; half fill it with the paste, and put 
 it in a warm place until it rises to the top of the mould, 
 bake it in a moderately-heated oven to a golden colour, 
 when done turn the baba out of the mould on to a dish, 
 and serve. 
 
 Note. — The rum or brandy may be omitted, and the baba 
 served with a sauce composed of apricot jam warmed up in 
 a stewpan with half a pint of syrup and a gill of rum, and 
 poured over the baba. 
 
 802. GENOESE CAKE. 
 
 Ingredients : Half a pound each of flour, pounded sugar, 
 and butter, four eggs, half a gill of brandy, and a good 
 pinch of salt. 
 
 Mix the flour, sugar, eggs, brandy, and salt well together 
 in a basin with a wooden spoon ; then add the butter 
 (merely melted by the side of the fire) ; work this well with 
 the paste ; pour it afterwards on a baking-sheet, previously 
 spread with butter, to the thickness of about an eighth of 
 an inch, and bake in a moderately-heated oven to a light 
 colour ; when done, turn it on a sheet of paper, and cut or 
 stamp it out either in circular, oblong, oval, angular, leaf- 
 like, or any other fancy shapes; these should then be 
 decorated with white of egg and sugar prepared as for 
 meringues (No. 867), and ornamented with currants, &c. 
 
 803. GINGER CAKE. 
 
 Ingredients : One pound of flour, twelve ounces each of 
 fresh butter and pounded sugar, two ounces of ground 
 Jamaica ginger, and eight yolks of eggs. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY, 397 
 
 Work the whole of the above-named ingredients into a 
 paste on the slab, then gather this into a compact mass 
 and separate into four parts, roll these to the thickness 
 of the sixth of an inch, and with a tin cutter stamp out as 
 many cakes as the paste will produce; place them on a 
 slightly buttered baking-sheet, pass a paste-brush over 
 when they are about half done, shake some sugar over, 
 and set them back in the oven to finish baking of a very 
 light colour, 
 
 804. SPANISH CAKE, 
 
 Ingredients required : Half a pint of water, a quarter 
 of a pound of butter, two ounces of pounded sugar, five 
 ounces of flour, three eggs, a few drops of orange essence, 
 two ounces of chopped almonds, and a pinch of salt. 
 
 Put the water, butter, salt, and sugar into a stewpan 
 on the fire, and as soon as these begin to boil withdraw 
 the stewpan; add the flour, stir the whole well together 
 with a wooden spoon for about three minutes, when the 
 paste should be of a soft and compact appearance, then add 
 the essence and one egg; mix these well with the paste, 
 then mix in the other two eggs, and if the paste should be 
 stiff, add another egg, or the yolk only may be added ; this 
 paste, when properly made, should be laid out on a baking- 
 sheet in small round balls the size of a pigeon's egg, and 
 egged over with a paste-brush, then the chopped almonds 
 must be mixed with a tablespoonful of pounded sugar and 
 a very small quantity of white of egg, and strewn over the 
 balls with a little sifted sugar shaken over, and baked of a 
 very light colour, then served either plain or garnished with 
 cream or any kind of preserve. 
 
 805. MADELEINES. 
 
 These are made with the same kind of paste as for 
 Genoese cakes, to which currants, dried cherries, candied 
 
398 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 peel, or angelica may be added. When the paste is 
 ready, pour it into a sufficient number of small fluted or 
 plain madeleine moulds previously buttered inside, then 
 place them on a baking-sheet, and bake in an oven of 
 moderate heat. When properly baked turn out of the 
 moulds, and let them get cold before serving. 
 
 806. RICE CAKE.- 
 
 Put one pound of pounded sugar in a whipping-bowl 
 with sixteen eggs ; whip both together over a very slow 
 fire for fifteen minutes ; then add half a pound of ground 
 rice, three-quarters of a pound of fresh butter slightly 
 melted in half a gill of Maraschino. Mix the whole lightly 
 together; then butter and flour a cylinder mould three 
 inches high, put the paste in it, and bake it in a moderate' 
 oven. When done, turn the cake out of the mould, glaze 
 it by pouring over a coating of apricot jam reduced with 
 syrup, and sprinkle over the hot jam an ounce of chopped 
 almonds, and let the cake cool before serving. 
 
 807. PASTE FOR SPONGE CAKE AND BISCUITS. 
 
 Ingredients : Eight eggs, one pound of pounded sugar, 
 one ounce of vanilla sugar, and a quarter of a pound each 
 of wheaten and potato flour. 
 
 Separate the yolks from the whites of eggs ; put the latter 
 in the egg- bowl and the former in a basin, which mix with 
 both sugars, and work with a wooden spoon. Whisk the 
 whites, add them lightly to the yolks, then sprinkle both 
 flours, and mix well together to a smooth paste. Meanwhile 
 have ready spread with butter two moulds kept hot at the 
 mouth of the oven, and strewn with fine dried sifted sugar 
 inside; fill the moulds, within an inch from the border, with 
 the paste, and put in a well-heated oven to bake. When 
 clone, which will be when a trussing needle thrust into the 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 399 
 
 centre of the cake comes out dry and free from dampness, 
 turn them out of tiie moulds ; and when cold, trim off the 
 paste that comes above the moulds. 
 
 808. ITALIAN BISCUITS. 
 
 Ingredients required : Six eggs, half a pound of sugar, 
 five ounces erf flour, a few drops of essence of either lemon 
 or orange, six ounces of chopped almonds, and a pinch of 
 salt. 
 
 Break the eggs, and divide the whites from the yolks by 
 putting the latter into a basin and the former in a whip- 
 ping-bowl; add the pounded sugar, essence, and salt to 
 the yolks, work these well with a wooden spoon till they 
 present the appearance of a thick creamy batter. Then 
 add half the flour, and mix it well in, after which whip the 
 whites of the six eggs to a firm froth, and mix them 
 lightly with the paste with the remainder of the flour, tak- 
 ing care to keep the mixture as firm and light as possible. 
 Butter and flour a baking-sheet, fill a biscuit forcer with 
 some of the paste, and force it out gently on the baking- 
 sheet in round or oval shapes twice the size of a five- 
 shilling piece. When the whole of the paste is used up in 
 this manner, strew the chopped almonds equally over the 
 biscuits ; then shake over the surface some pounded sugar, 
 and bake them of a very light colour in rather a slack 
 oven. 
 
 Note. — These biscuits are most appropriate for dessert. 
 
 809. CHAMPAGNE BISCUITS. 
 
 Ingredients : Half a pound each of pounded sugar, 
 fresh butter, and flour ; eight eggs, a quarter of an ounce 
 of earraway seeds, and a pinch of- salt. 
 
 Put the butter in a basin, and work it with a wooden 
 spoon until of a thick creamy appearance; then add 
 
400 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 gradually the sugar, flour, yolks of eggs, the carraway 
 seeds, and salt. Work these well together with the spoon, 
 then mix the eight whites of eggs, previously whisked firm 
 for the purpose j lay a sheet pf paper on a baking-sheet, 
 fill a biscuit-forcer with some of the paste, and proceed to 
 force out the paste on the sheet of paper in the shape of 
 a finger three inches long by one wide, leaving an inch 
 space between each biscuit j shake over some sifted sugar ; 
 when all the paste has been used, bake in a moderate 
 oven for about ten minutes, then let them cool before 
 removing them from the paper. 
 
 Note. — These biscuits are only served for dessert. 
 
 810. APPLE TART. 
 
 Make a puff paste (No. 319) at six turns, and roll it to 
 a quarter of an inch thick. Butter an open tart mould, 
 line it on a baking-sheet with the paste, and trim it on 
 a level with the top of the mould j fill this with apples, 
 previously peeled, the cores removed and cut in quarters, 
 or slices about a quarter of an inch thick ; add a sufficient 
 quantity of pounded sugar to sweeten the apples, and strew 
 over the rind of a lemon rubbed on sugar and then scraped 
 off. Cover the tart with puff paste, egg it over with a 
 paste-brush, make some fanciful, but slight incisions on 
 the top with the point of a knife, and let it bake of a 
 light golden colour; when done, turn it carefully out of 
 the mould, shake some sifted sugar upon, and serve when 
 cold. 
 
 811. FRUIT TARTS IN GENERAL. 
 
 When apricots, peaches, or any kind of large plums, 
 are used for making tarts, the stones must be removed. 
 In other respects they are invariably made and baked as 
 the foregoing. Cherry, damson, raspberry, and currant 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 401 
 
 tarts are made with the same directions, except that the 
 stones of the two former need not be removed. 
 
 812. APPLE FRITTERS. 
 
 Peel and cut the apples in rather thick slices, remove 
 the cores with a tin cutter, and put the slices in a basin 
 with about half a gill of brandy and a tablespoonful of 
 pounded sugar, as well as some grated peel of either lemon 
 or orange; toss the slices gently in the liquor, and let 
 them steep thus for several hours if possible. Meanwhile 
 make a batter paste (No. 317). Warm up to the right 
 temperature a proper quantity of fat in the frying-kettle, 
 and a quarter of an hour before serving drain well on a 
 cloth the slices of apples ; dip each of these separately in 
 the batter, and drop them quickly in the frying fat ; 
 accelerate the fire when all the slices are in, stir with the 
 skimmer, and when the fritters ^re crisp and of a nice 
 golden colour, drain them on a cloth, shake some sifted 
 sugar on both sides, and dish up on a napkin on a hot 
 dish, and serve. 
 
 813. PINE-APPLE FRITTERS. 
 
 Trim the pine-apple without waste, cut it into small 
 pieces the "size of a finger, steep them in a basin with a 
 little Maraschino and a spoonful of pounded sugar ; then 
 proceed to dip each piece in the batter, as described in 
 the preceding number, and fry them in every respect as 
 apple fritters. 
 
 814. ORANGE FRITTERS. 
 Peel the number of oranges required for fritters, divide 
 them into quarters, remove the pips, and steep them in a 
 basin with half a gill of brandy and a spoonful of pounded 
 sugar ; toss these quarters well, so as to enable the brandy 
 to be absorbed. Meanwhile prepare sonje light-made batter 
 
 2 C 
 
402 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 (No. 317), and proceed (when about to send to the table) in 
 the same way as for apple fritters. 
 
 815. BEIGNETS FRITTERS. 
 
 Put a pint of water into a stewpan, with a quarter of a 
 pound of fresh butter, one ounce of pounded sugar, and a 
 small pinch of salt ; boil it ; then draw the pan away from 
 the fire, add gradually while stirring with a wooden spoon, 
 half a pound of flour and the grated peel of a lemon ; stir 
 this over the fire four minutes longer, then take it away 
 from the fire and break in one egg, mix it thoroughly 
 before adding another, aiid continue in the same way until 
 five eggs have been used, if the paste is rather stiff, use 
 one more, as this must be of such consistency as not 
 to spread when dropped from the spoon. Warm some 
 frying-fat in the frying kettle ; when hot, draw it to the 
 side of the fire, spread the paste one inch and a half 
 thick on a stewpan cover, hold the cover in the left hand 
 over the frying kettle, dip the hooked handle of a kitchen 
 ladle in the hot fat, and with it detach portions of the 
 paste, the size of a walnut, and let them drop in the hot . 
 fat. When the paste has been all used, push" the kettle on 
 the fire, and stir the fritters with the skimmer till done, 
 which can be ascertained by trying them with the finger ; 
 if found of an even yellow colour, and firm to the touch, 
 they are ready ; then drain them on a wire sieve, sprinkle 
 with pounded sugar, dish on a hot napkin, and serve. 
 
 Note. — The fat for frying sweet fritters must be quite 
 fresh, and only used for frying similar sweet dishes, and on 
 no account should fat be used in which fish has been fried. 
 
 816. BROWN-BREAD PUDDING. 
 
 Ingredients required : Three quarters of a pound of 
 brown-bread crumbs, six ounces of pounded sugar, six eggs, 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 403 
 
 half a pint of whipped cream, a little grated lemon rind, 
 a pinch of cinnamon powder, one pound of morella cherries, 
 and a good pinch of salt. 
 
 Mix the bread crumbs, sugar, the yolks of eggs, lemon, 
 cinnamon, salt, and whipped cream, well together in a basin, 
 then add the whisked whites of six eggs, and set it aside. 
 Spread a plain mould with butter, strew it with brown- 
 bread crumbs, and put a large spoonful of the mixture 
 at the bottom of the mould ; then arrange a layer of cherries 
 upon it, cover these with some of the mixture, then another 
 layer of cherries, and so on till all has been put in the 
 mould. This must now be placed in a moderately-heated 
 oven to bake for about an hour. When done turn it out 
 of the mould on a dish, pour some cherry sauce around, 
 and serve. 
 
 817. SEMOLINA PUDDING. 
 
 Ingredients : Twelve ounces of semolina flour, six 
 ounces of pounded sugar, a quarter of a pound of butter, 
 sis eggs, a pint of good milk, a tablespoonful of orange- 
 flower water, and a pinch of salt. 
 
 Mix the semolina with the sugar, orange-flower water, 
 the half of the butter, two eggs, milk, and salt, in a stewpan 
 over the fire until it boils ; continue stirring till the paste 
 is perfectly smooth and ceases to adhere to the sides of the 
 pan, when it must be withdrawn from the .fire, and the 
 remainder of the eggs and butter added gradually and 
 well mixed with the paste ; then spread the inside of a 
 mould with butter, fill it with the paste, put the bottom of 
 the mould in a deep saut^-pan half filled with boiling water, 
 place in the oven to bake for about an hour and a quarter. 
 When done, turn the pudding out of the mould on a hot 
 dish, pour either a custard or fruit sauce over, and serve. 
 
404 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 818. CABINET PUDDING. 
 
 This pudding is made with sponge cake. Spread the 
 inside of a plain mould with butter, stone two ounces of 
 raisins, pick, wash, and dry the same quantity of currants, 
 cut in small dice about an ounce of candied citron and two 
 ounces of dried cherries ; lay at the bottom of the mould 
 some of the mixed fruit, on these lay some slices of sponge 
 cake, and continue alternate layers till the mould is two- 
 thirds full. Then beat the yolks of six eggs for about a 
 minute, and add while stirring a pint of boiled milk, half 
 a gill of brandy, and a quarter of a pound of pounded sugar. 
 When the lot is well mixed together, p&,ss slowly through 
 a tammy into the mould ; let it thus stand for a few minutes, 
 after which cook the pudding in a bain-marie for half an 
 hour, then turn it out of the mould on to a hot dish, and 
 serve with a custard sauce or a sauce made as follows : — 
 Put the yolks of six eggs into a stewpan with half a pint 
 of syrup, stir this over the fire until the sauce coats the 
 spoon, then add a gill of brandy, or some other liqueur, 
 pass the sauce through a tammy, and pour it over the 
 pudding before serving. 
 
 819. CHESTNUT PUDDING, 
 
 Peel and boil two pounds of fine chestnuts, remove the 
 second skin, and rub the pulp through a fine wire sieve ; 
 place the pur^e in a stewpan with a pint of milk or cream, 
 two ounces of butter, a quarter of a pound of sugar, a tea- 
 spoonful of vanilla essence, and a pinch of salt ; stir the 
 lot over the fire until the mixture thickens, then quicken 
 the stirring so as to prevent the contents from adhering 
 to the bottom of the pan, and as soon as it detaches itself 
 from the sides of the said pan remove it from the fire, add 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 405 
 
 the yolks of six eggs, properly beaten, and the whites of 
 four, whipped firm. When these have been well mixed 
 together with the spoon, pour it into a plain mould well 
 spread with butter, and boil in a bain-marie for about 
 an hour. When done, turn the pudding carefully out of 
 the mould into a hot dish, and serve with a little apricot 
 jam, previously warmed and diluted for the purpose. 
 
 820. GINGER PUDDING. 
 
 Put a pint of good milk into a stewpan on the fire, with 
 a quarter of a pound each of sugar and butter, and a pinch 
 of salt. As soon as it boils, draw the stewpan from the 
 fire ; sprinkle six ounces of flour. Stir the whole together, 
 put it back on the fire, stirring the while for five minutes 
 longer, then remove the pan from the fire ; add gradually, one 
 by one while stirring, six eggs and six ounces of preserved 
 ginger cut into small pieces. Mix the lot well together, 
 spread a mould with butter, pour the mixture in it, and 
 cook in a bain-marie for about an hour and a half ; then 
 turn the pudding out of the mould into a hot dish, and 
 serve with custard sauce, made with syrup from the ginger, 
 poured over it. 
 
 821. LEMON PUDDING. 
 
 Eub on sugar the peel of four lemons, put this with the 
 juice of two in a basin with a pint of good milk, the yolks 
 of eight eggs, and the whites of three whisked,- a quarter 
 of a nutmeg grated, a good pinch of cinnamon powder, a 
 small pinch of salt, and six ounces of pounded sugar. Mix 
 the lot well together with a wooden spoon, after which put 
 a border of puff paste round the edge of a pie-dish, spread 
 the inside with, butter, pour the mixture into it, and put 
 in a moderately-heated oven to bake for about half an hour. 
 When done, shake over some sifted sugar, and serve. 
 
4o6 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 822.. BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING. 
 
 Cut about a pound of thin slices of bread and butter, and 
 put them in a pie-dish, which must only be half full, 
 together with a quarter of a pound of well-washed and 
 dried currants, and two ounces of chopped candied citron 
 between the slices. Boil one pint of milk with the peel 
 of a lemon, a pinch of salt, and six ounces of sugar ; break 
 four eggs into a basin beat them up with a fork, then 
 add the milk gradually to them. Strain the lot through 
 a tammy into the pie dish ; let it soak thus for ten minutes, 
 and bake in a well-heated oven for half an hour. When 
 done, shake over the top some sifted sugar, and serve. 
 
 823. COLLEGE PUDDING. 
 
 Chop up three-quarters of a pound of beef marrow, and 
 put it in a basin with one ounce each of candied lemon, 
 orange peel, and candied citron, all chopped coarse, also half 
 a pound of well-washed and dried currants, half a pound of 
 bread crumbs, and a quarter of a pound of pounded sugar ; 
 mix these well together with the hands, then add three 
 eggs, half a gill of brandy and one of sherry ; work the lot 
 well together with a wooden spoon ; butter two . moulds 
 slightly, put the mixture in them, and bake the puddings 
 in a moderately-heated oven for half an hour. When 
 done, turn the puddings out of the moulds on to a hot 
 dish, and serve with a sauce made as follows : — Put the 
 yolks of three eggs into a stewpan with one ounce of 
 pounded sugar and a gill of sherry ; whisk the eggs over 
 the JBre without boiling ; when the sauce thickens, pour it 
 over the puddings, and serve. 
 
 824. TAPIOCA PUDDING. 
 
 Put a pint of milk into a stewpan with six ounces of 
 tapioca, three ounces of sugar, one ounce of butter, a pinch 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 407 
 
 of salt, and the grated rind of half a lemon ; stir the lot 
 over the fire till it boils, then cover the stewpan and let it 
 simmer for a quarter of an hour, after which draw the 
 stewpan from the fire^ add the yolks of three eggs, and the 
 whites of two whipped; mix the lot well together, and 
 pour it into a pie-dish previously spread with butter, put 
 the pudding in a moderately-heated oven to bake for about 
 half an hou;p, and serve. 
 
 Note. — Sago, semolina, rice, vermicelli^ macaroni, and 
 tagliateUi can be prepared and baked in the same manner, 
 and vaniUa or orange-flower water essence substituted for 
 lemon rind. 
 
 825. RICE PUDDING. 
 
 Wash half a pound of Italian rice, and boil it for fifteen 
 minutes in a stewpan with a pint and a half of good milk, 
 a quarter of a pound of pounded sugar, a pinch of salt, and 
 a small stick of vanilla or any other flavouring, after which 
 draw the stewpan from the fire, add the yolks of three 
 eggs well beaten, mix the lot well together, and pour it 
 into a pie-dish previously buttered ; bake in a well-heated 
 oven for twenty minutes, and serve. 
 
 826. PLUM PUDDING. 
 
 Put in a large basin three-quarters of a pound each of 
 picked and finely-chopped beef suet, stoned raisins, well- 
 washed and picked currants, moist sugar, bread crumbs, 
 peeled russet apples, with the cores removed and cut in 
 small dice, and a quarter of a pound each of candied 
 citron, orange, and lemon, all cut in small dice. Mix 
 these thoroughly with three pounded cloves, a good 
 pinch each of cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt, a gill of sherry, 
 half a gill of brandy, and four eggs, one at a time. When 
 the lot has been, well worked together with the hands, it 
 
4o8 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 should remain in a cool place for at least six hours 
 before setting the pudding to boil. I advise the mixture 
 to be made the day before the pudding is required. Then 
 a pudding basin must be buttered and filled with the 
 mixture. . Fasten a strong cloth over the top (previously 
 spread with butter or flour) by bringing the four ends 
 round the bottom of the basin, where they must be tied 
 securely. Meanwhile have a stock-pot, with about six 
 quarts or more of boiling water, ready on the stove ; place 
 a strong stick or iron bar across the pot, hang the pud- 
 ding to it with strings to prevent the basin touching the 
 bottom of the pot, and let it boil for at least six hours, 
 (if more all the better), taking care to replenish the pot 
 with boiling water when wanted. 
 
 When done, turn the pudding out of the mould on to a 
 hot dish, sprinkle it with pounded sugar, pour half a pint 
 of warm, brandy or rum over it before serving, and light 
 with a match when the pudding is on the table. 
 
 Note. — The following sauce is a very good substitute for 
 rum or brandy : — Put the yolks of four eggs into a stew- 
 pan with two ounces of pounded sugar; a gill of sherry or 
 any other white wine, the peel of half a lemon rubbed on 
 sugar, and a small pinch of salt. Whisk this sharply 
 over a slow fire until it assumes a frothy appearance, then 
 pour it over the pudding. 
 > 
 827. ROLEY-POLEY PUDDING. 
 
 Pick and chop very fine one pound of beef suet, put it 
 in a basin with one pound of flour and a good pinch of 
 salt, mix these to a stiffish paste with about three gills 
 of cold water, then roll it out to a quarter of an inch 
 thick and of an oblong shape ; spread any kind of jam 
 on the paste, and roll this round to the form of a long 
 roll. EoU the pudding afterwards in a buttered cloth, tie 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLP COOKERY. 409 
 
 both ends up tightly with string, and tie it with string 
 lengthways, to keep it in shape ; then drop it in plenty 
 of boiling water, and let it boil for about an hour aud a 
 half. When done, turn the pudding carefully out of the 
 cloth, put it on a hot dish, and serve. 
 
 828. GOOSEBERRY PUDDING. 
 
 Make half a -pound of suet paste as described in the 
 previous number, line a pudding-basin with it, and fill it 
 up with picked gooseberries ; spread a layer of moist or 
 btown sugar over the fruit, cover this with a round of 
 paste, and tie a cloth tightly over the top, then set it in a 
 stewpan full of boiling water to boil for an hour and a 
 quarter; when done, remove the cloth, turn the pudding 
 out of the basin on to a hot dish, spread some brown sugar 
 over, and serve. 
 
 Note. — Currant and raspberry pudding, cherry, apricot, 
 greengage, damson, and black currant puddings, are all 
 made in the same way. 
 
 829. APPLE PUDDING. 
 
 Line a pudding basin with half a pound of suet paste 
 made as in the foregoing, then cut some cooking apples 
 in quarters, peel, core, and fill the basin with them, add 
 two or three clores and a little chojjped lemon peel, spread 
 a layer of moist sugar. Cover the apples with paste, then 
 tie the top with a cloth. Boil and serve the pudding as 
 directed above. 
 
 830. PANCAKES. 
 
 Mix half a pound of flour in a basin with a tablespoonf ul 
 of pounded sugar, a small pinch of salt, a gill of milk, 
 and three eggs. Melt two ounces of butter in a stewpan 
 with three gills of milk on the fire, and add it gradually 
 
4IO PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 to the paste in the basin, so as to make a smooth batter ; 
 if found to be too thick, a little more milk must be added ; 
 melt a quarter of a poUnd of fresh butter in a small stew- 
 pan, and keep it by the side of the fire. Warm a pancake- 
 pan, butter it with a brush dipped in the melted butter, 
 then pour in some of the batter so as to cover the bottom 
 of the pan when spread.- Fry the pancake until it is 
 coloured on one side, then toss it over to colour it on the 
 other side; when done, slip on to a hot dish, shake over 
 some sifted sugar, and roll it up. Repeat the same thing 
 till all the batter is used up ; lay the pancakes in close 
 circular order in double or treble rows, and serve them 
 very hot, with some cut lemons on a plate. 
 
 Note. — The batter can be flavoured .with a dessert- 
 spoonful of orange-flower water. 
 
 831. PANCAKES WITH JAM. 
 
 Prepare a batter as in the foregoing, and as each pancake 
 is fried spread any kind of jam upon it, roll it up, and 
 place on a dish in the oven; when all the pancakes are 
 fried, sprinkle some pounded sugar over them, glaze them 
 with a red-hot salamander, dish up on a napkin as before 
 described, and serve. 
 
 832. OMELET S0UFFL|. 
 
 Separate the whites- of six eggs from the yolks, put the 
 whites in the egg-bowl, and the yolks in a basin with a 
 quarter of a pound of pounded sugar and a teaspoonful of 
 orange-flower water or any other essence, or the grated 
 peel of a lemon ; mix these well with a wooden spoon for 
 five minutes, then whip the white of the eggs to a firm froth 
 nnd mix them lightly with the yolks, after which butter a 
 silver or baking-dish, pour the egg mixture over as lightly 
 as possible, smooth over in the form of a dome with a 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 411 
 
 knife, and put it in a moderately-heated oven to bake for 
 ten or twelve, minutes ; when ready shake over the omelet 
 some pounded sugar, and send it immediately to the table. 
 
 'Note. — All souffles should, as soon as taken out of the 
 oven, be at once sent to the table, and in order that this 
 should be done with success, the servant must wait in the 
 kitchen for it, otherwise if the souffle is left too long, even 
 in the oven, it will coUapse and get spoiled. 
 
 833. CHOCOLATE SOUFFLI 
 
 Break a quarter of a pound of chocolate into pieces, put 
 it in a stewpan over the fire with a gill of milk, and work 
 with a wooden spoon to a smooth paste, then add a 
 quarter of a pound of flour, two ounces of pounded sugar, 
 a small pinch of salt, and three gills of milk. Stir this to 
 a nice batter, then add the yolks of six eggs, two at a time, 
 and mix well, after which whisk the whites of six eggs into 
 a firm froth, and add them lightly v^'ith the paste ; butter 
 a dish as in the previous number, pour the batter into it, 
 and arrange it as described in the foregoing ; then put it 
 in the oven to bake for about twenty minutes, sprinkle over 
 some sifted sugar, and serve the souffl6 at once. 
 
 834. VANILLA S0UFFL6. 
 
 Boil a pint of milk and let it get cold, then mix with it 
 a quarter of a pound of flour, three ounces of sugar, two 
 ounces of vanilla sugar, and a small pinch of salt. Stir this 
 over the fire until it boils ; then withdraw the stewpan from 
 the fire, add the yolks of six eggs, mixing in only two at 
 a time, and when properly mixed add the whites of the 
 eggs previously whisked firm, and proceed to bake the 
 souffle as described for chocolate souffle, and serve 
 quickly. 
 
412 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 835, COFFEE SOUFFL^. 
 
 Put a quarter of a pound of roasted coffee beans into a 
 stewpan with a pint and a half of boiling milk, let it boil 
 for two minutes ; cover the stewpan closely, and let it thus 
 stand for an hour, after which strain the milk through a 
 pointed strainer, and with it proceed to make a batter as 
 described for vanilla souffle with similar ingredients, but 
 omit the vanilla sugar; bake. and serve the souffle in the 
 same way, 
 
 836. CHEESE SOUFFL^. 
 
 Grate a quarter of a pound of Parmesan cheese, and half 
 that quantity of Gruyfere cheese ; mix a quarter of a pound 
 of flour in a stewpan over the fire with a pint of milk, a 
 teaspopnf ul of salt, and two pinches of pepper until it boils, 
 then withdraw the stewpan ; mix in the grated cheese and 
 the yolks of six eggs, added two at a time. Whip the 
 whites of the six eggs very fine, mix them lightly to the 
 paste, and pour into a buttered dish to bake in a 
 moderately-heated oven for about twenty minutes, and 
 serve immediately as previously described, 
 
 837. RICE SOUFFLE. 
 
 Wash a quarter of a pound of Italian rice, then drain 
 and put it in a stewpan, with a pint and a half of mUk, a 
 quarter of a pound of sugar, two ounces of vanilla sugar, 
 and a pinch of salt. Simmer the lot very gently for an 
 hour, afterwards let the rice cool a little, and mix in the 
 yolks of six eggs, one at a time. Whip firm the whites of 
 the six eggs, and mix them lightly in the rice ; then pour 
 the lot into a buttered dish, and put it in a moderately- 
 heated oven to bake for twenty minutes. Shake some 
 sifted sugar over the souffi^, and serve at once. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 413 
 
 838. OMELET WITH RUM. 
 Break six eggs in a basin, add a teaspoonful of pounded 
 sugar, and a small pinch of salt, beat these with a fork, 
 and fry the omelet as described in No. 253. When cooked, 
 fold on a dish. Sprinkle some sugar over the omelet, glaze 
 with a red-hot iron poker, pour a gill of hot rum over, set 
 fire to it, and serve alight. 
 
 839. OMELET WITH APRICOT JAM. 
 
 Break six eggs as in No. 838, add a good pinch of pounded 
 sugar and a small one of salt, beat, and fry the omelet 
 with two ounces of good butter, as described ; before folding 
 lay three spoonfuls of apricot jam in the centre, then fold 
 the sides of the omelet over the jam, turn it on a hot dish, 
 sprinkle over with sugar, pass a red-hot iron or poker over 
 it, and serve. 
 
 Note. — Any kind of jam or preserve may be substituted 
 for apricot jam, and sweet omelets should be served rather 
 moist in the centre. 
 
 840. SNOW EGGS. 
 
 Boil a quart of milk in a stewpan, with two ounces of 
 sugar and the grated peel of a lemon. Meanwhile break 
 six eggs, put the yolks in a basin and the whites in the 
 egg-bowl, whip to a firm froth, then mix in a quarter of a 
 pound of sifted sugar, and with a spoon drop some of this 
 mixture, about the size of an egg, into the boiling milk. 
 When six spoonfuls have thus been dropped, put the stew- 
 pan by the side of the fire, and let the contents simmer for 
 four minutes, turning the whites over when they are set, 
 on one side, and when quite firm, on both sides, drain them 
 on a sieve ; repeat the process till all the white mixture 
 is used J let the milk cool a little to make a plain custard 
 
414 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 with, then add the six yolks of beaten eggs and two ounces 
 of sugar, "stir over the fire till the same begins to thicken 
 and forming a coating on the spoon. Withdraw the stew- 
 pan from the stove, stir for three minutes longer, then 
 strain the sauce through a pointed strainer, and when 
 quite cold, dish up the eggs in a pyramidal form, pour the 
 custard sauce over, and serve. 
 
 841. STEWED APPLES. 
 
 Peel eight cooking apples, core and cut them in halves ; 
 place them in a stewpan with a quart of water, half a 
 pound of loaf sugar, four cloves, and the peel of a lemon. 
 Set them to simmer very gently till the apples are done, 
 taking care to turn them over when half cooked, then take 
 them out with the skimmer and dish up nicely. Mean- . 
 while reduce the syrup by quick boiling, strain it over the 
 apples, and serve. 
 
 Nate. — Stewed fruit can be served both hot and cold, 
 but the latter is the best. In that case the syrup should 
 only be poured over the fruit when cold, and just before 
 serving. 
 
 842. STEWED PEARS. 
 
 Peel very smooth eight stewing pears, and put them 
 whole with their stalks, in a stewpan with a quart of water, 
 half a pound of loaf sugar, a little prepared cochineal, and 
 a small piece of stick of vanilla. Simmer very gently for 
 about an hour (more or less according to the quality and 
 size of the pears), let them cool in their syrup, then dish 
 up; reduce the syrup quickly by half, and when cold, and 
 just before serving, pour it over the pears and serve. 
 
 843. STEWED PLUMS. 
 
 Select a pound of nice plums ; wash and put them in a 
 stewpan with enough water to cover them well, add 'two 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 415 
 
 ounces of loaf sugar and a piece of cinnamon, simmer for 
 about forty minutes ; when done, dish them up, add two 
 ounces of loaf sugar to the syrup, and reduce it by half over 
 a brisk fire ; then strain it, and when cold, and just before 
 sending to the table, pour the syrup over the plums and 
 serve. 
 
 844. STEWED GREENGAGES. 
 Select two dozen fine greengages, and put them in a 
 copper sugar-boiler, with half a pound of loaf sugar and 
 three-quarters of a pint of water ; when boiling, cover the 
 pan, and let it simmer for ten minutes ; then take the 
 greengages out and dish them up, reduce the syrup by 
 half, and when cold, pour it over the fruit, and serve. 
 
 845. STEWED MIRABELLE PLDMS. 
 
 Select three dozen Mirabelle plums, put them in a copper 
 sugar-boiler, with six ounces of lump sugar and three- 
 quarters of a pint of water. Boil and finish as in the 
 foregoing. 
 
 846. STEWED APRICOTS. 
 
 Pick a dozen not over-ripe apricots ; cut them in halves, 
 remove the stones, break them, take the almonds out, and 
 blanch and peel them. Put half a pint of water, with 
 six ounces of lump sugar, in a copper sugar-boiler ; boil it, 
 put in the apricots, and simmer for five minutes, then dish 
 them up ; reduce the syrup by half, and when cold pour it 
 over the apricots, place half an almond taken from the 
 stones on each piece of apricot, and serve. 
 
 847. STEWED CHERRIES. 
 
 Pick a pound of cherries ; put a quarter of a pound of 
 lump sugar in a copper sugar-boiler with one quart of 
 water, boil this, and put the cherries in. Cover the pan, 
 
4i6 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 and simmer for five minutes ; after which dish the cherries, 
 reduce the syrup by half, let it cool, pour it over the 
 cherries, and serve. 
 
 848. STEWED FRUIT WITH RICE. 
 
 Any kind'of stewed fruit can be served with rice ; this 
 is a great improvement to the fruit, and makes it, at the 
 same time, a more substantial sweet dish. Blanch half a 
 pound of rice in boiling water for three or four minutes, 
 cool it in cold water, drain, and put into a stewpan with 
 a quart of milk and one ounce of sugar ; boU gently until 
 the rice is done, then lay it at the bottom of a dish, dress 
 the stewed fruit on it in a circle, pour over the lot the 
 syrup in which the fruit was cooked, and serve. 
 
 Note. — The process of cooking the rice for stewed fruit 
 is alwaj's the same, and can be served with as much taste 
 and style hgt as well as cold. 
 
 849. STEWED DRIED FRENCH PLUMS. 
 
 Soak two pounds of dried French plums for a couple of 
 hours in plenty of cold water, then strain and put them 
 in a stewpan with enough cold water to cover them, add 
 the peel of a lemon, a piece of cinnamon, and half a pound 
 of broken lump sugar to it; set the stewpah on the fire 
 to simmer gently for about two hours, or till the plums 
 are soft to the touch; when they are done enough, add 
 half a pint of claret ; give this a slight stir over the fire, 
 and as soon as a white scum begins to form on the top, 
 draw the stewpan from the fire, pour the contents in a 
 basin to get cold, and serve properly dished up with its 
 syrup. 
 
 Noie. — Rice boiled as in No. 848 is also a great improve- 
 ment wbpii served with stewed plums. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 417 
 
 850. APPLE CHARLOTTE. 
 
 Peel and core twelve or fifteen nice cooking apples, cut 
 them in thin slices, put them in a saut6-pan with two or 
 three ounces of pounded sugar, and a quarter of a pound 
 of fresh butter, previously melted; toss the apples over the 
 fire till they are soft to the touch, but not cooked. Take a 
 plain round mould, cut some thin slices of crumb of bread, 
 one of about one incji and a half round, some heart-shape 
 pieces, and some narrow strips the height of the mould. 
 Melt some fresh butter in a stewpan, dip the round and 
 heart-shape pieces in it ; place the round one in the centre 
 at the bottom of the mould, and the heart-pieces round it 
 overlapping each other, and the points resting on the 
 round piece ; dip the strips of bread in butter, and stand 
 them round the sides of the mould, also overlaying one 
 another. Fill the lined mould with the apple, and put it 
 in a hot oven to bake until the bread is crisp and of an 
 even yellow colour ; then turn the charlotte out of the 
 mould on to a napkin on a dish, and serve hot. 
 
 85L PEAR CHARLOTTE. 
 
 Proceed for this as in the foregoing, but substitute pears 
 for apples, and add a little vanilla sugar to the saut6-pan 
 when cooking the pears, then fiU up the mould. Bake it 
 ill the oven, and serve as above. 
 
 852. COFFEE CUSTARDS. (^ C^^X 0. ^-V- 
 
 For six custard-cups, boil three cupfuls of milk witJbi ono 
 ounce and a quarter of pounded sugar, and when, a little 
 cool, mix the yolks of five eggs, a small pinch of salt, and 
 one cup of strong black coffee ; when these have been well 
 mixed together, strain it through a silk sieve; have some 
 boiling water in a shallow stewpan. Fill the six custard 
 
 2 D 
 
4i8 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 cups with the custard, place them in the stewpan with 
 boiling water, set this over a slow fire Tor the water to 
 simmer' only very gently ; put the cover on the stewjjan 
 and some live coals on the cover. 
 
 When the custards are set, take off the cover, let them 
 cool in the water ; then wipe the cups, put them on a dish, 
 and serve. 
 
 853. CHOCOLATE CUSTARDS. 
 
 Proceed with the number of custards as directed in the 
 foregoing, mixing the milk with three ounces of melted 
 chocolate instead of cofEee, and finish in every way the 
 sama 
 
 Note. — Custards flavoured either witli vanilla, orange- 
 flower water, or lemon-peel are made and set in the same 
 way as the above. 
 
 854. MINCE-MEAT. 
 
 Pick, wash, and dry three pounds of currants; stone 
 three pounds of raisins ; cut one pound of russet apples in 
 quarters, peel and core them ; finely chop half a pound each 
 of candied orange peel, lemon-peel, and candied citron cut 
 in thin slices ; chop up the raisins and apples and mix well 
 the lot together in a basin. 
 
 Pick and' chop very finely one pound of beef suet and one 
 pound of roast lean beef ; add both to the basin with the 
 fruit, together with one pound of pounded sugar, one ounce 
 of ground cinnamon, half an ounce of lemon-peel chopped 
 very fine, half an ounce each of pounded cloves and allspice, 
 and a quarter of an ounce of grated nutmeg; mix the 
 whole well together, moistening with half a pint of sherry 
 and a pint of brandy. Put the mince-meat into jars and 
 tie closely down with brown paper. 
 
 Note. — Mince-meat should be made at least a fortnight 
 before using it ; and if a month, all the better. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 419 
 
 855. MINCE PIES. 
 Make a puff paste of six turns (No. 318), roll it out thin, 
 and with it line some small tartlet-moulds ; fill them with 
 mince-meat, cover them, with a similar rolled paste, press 
 and cut them round, then egg them over with a paste- 
 brush dipped in yolks ; cut a small pattern on the top, and 
 bake in a weU-heated oven for about a quarter of an hour. 
 When done take out of the moulds, dish up, and serve. 
 
 856. CLARIFIED SYRUP FOR JELLIES. 
 
 Whatever quantity of syrup may be required, put three 
 gills of cold water to one pound of finest loaf-sugar into 
 a copper sugar-boiler, and half the white of an egg, whipped 
 with a little water ; whisk the lot together on the fire 
 until it boils, then pour a few drops of cold water to enable 
 the scum to rise, which must at once be removed with a 
 silver spoon ; let the syrup simmer gently, until the whole 
 of the scum has been thrown up and removed, adding a 
 little more cold water if necessary ; then strain the syrup 
 through a napkin or jelly-bag into a basin and put by in 
 a cool place for use. 
 
 857. LEMON JELLY. 
 
 Oalf's-foot, isinglass, and gelatine are the foundations 
 or basis of all kinds of jellies, bavarois creams, and blanc- 
 mange. 
 
 I have already described the manner of making a plain 
 calf's-foot jelly (No. 227), which is the most wholesome 
 stiffening to use. Isinglass is the best, being prepared 
 from the bladder of sturgeons. It is perhaps the purest 
 and cleanest, but it is also the dearest; consequently 
 gelatine is generally the stiffening used, on account of its 
 lower cost. 
 
420 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 Put two ounces of gelatine in a stewpan -with three- 
 quarters of a pound of loaf-sugar and the juice of two 
 lemons. Whisk the whites of two eggs in a basin, mix 
 them with a quart of water, and pour the whole into the 
 stewpan with the gelatine ; stir the liquid over the fire with 
 the whisk, until it boils ; then take the stewpan off the fire, 
 let it cool for a few minutes ; after which, pour the contents 
 into the jelly-bag over the yellow peel of four lemons to 
 strain, pour it back again, and again, until it is quite clear. 
 
 Should, there be no jelly-bag and frame handy, a kitchen 
 stool upside down, with a fine diaper broth-napkin, previously 
 rinsed in hot water, tied to the four legs, and a bain-marie 
 put underneath to receive the strained jelly, will make 
 a very good substitute for a jelly-bag and stand, but the 
 proper jelly-bag is to be preferred. 
 
 Press out or squeeze the juice of six lemons ; strain 
 through a silk sieve and filter with some filtering or white 
 blotting paper into a water-bottle or decanter. Meanwhile 
 have a three-pint jelly-mould in about three inches of 
 broken rough ice, mix the filtered juice with the jelly, 
 pour it in the mould, and let it set for some two hours. 
 When the jelly is set firm, ten minutes before sending 
 to the table, dip the mould in warm water, wipe with a 
 cloth, shake it gently, so as to free the jelly from the 
 mould without breaking, and turn it out carefully on a 
 dish. 
 
 Note. — As there are several kinds of gelatine with more 
 or less stiffening power, it is advisable, after having clarified 
 the jelly, to try a httle in the ice first, to see if it be too 
 stiff, in which case a little more syrup may be added. 
 
 858. STRAWBERRY JELLY. 
 Pick the stalks off one pound and a half of nice ripe 
 strawberries, and put them into a basin ; boil three pints of 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 421 
 
 clarified syrup and let it cool five minutes; then pour it 
 over the strawberries ; cover the basin closely and let them 
 steep thus for an hour ; after which, filter the syrup through 
 a jelly-bag. Meanwhile melt two ounces of gelatine on 
 the fire with a little water, strain in the usual way, and 
 when cool mix it with the strawberry syrup. Set a three- 
 pint jelly-mould in plenty of rough ice, pour in a quarter- 
 inch layer of syrup and let it set slightly ; then arrange a 
 few fine picked strawberries on it, pour in one or two 
 spoonfuls of syrup to keep the strawberries in position, and 
 let it set ; then pour some more syrup in the mould, and 
 when this layer is set, arrange another row of strawberries, 
 and continue the process till the mould is full ; place a 
 baking-sheet on the mould with some ice on the top, and 
 let it stand thus, for a couple of hours j when perfectly 
 firm, turn the jelly out of the mould on to a dish, after 
 having dipped it in warm water, as previously described, 
 and serve. 
 
 859. OBANGE JELLY. 
 
 Prepare this jelly as directed for lemon jelly, substi- 
 tuting orange juice and peel for the lemon, and put a 
 quarter of a pound less of loaf-sugar. 
 
 860. MADEIRA JELLY. 
 
 Mix one pint of clarified calt's-foot jelly with three gills 
 of clarified syrup in a sugar-boiler on the fire, and when 
 boiling draw the pan away and let it cool ; after which, add 
 half a pint of Madeira with a few drops of prepared cochi- 
 neal and a tablespoonful of filtered lemon-juice ; mix the 
 lot thoroughly well, and pour into a mould properly 
 imbedded in the ice ; put a baking- sheet with some ice 
 on the top and let it set for two hours ; after which, turn 
 the jelly out of the mould on a dish, as described in the 
 foregoing, and serve. 
 
42 2 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 Note. — All liqueur and wine jellies are prepared ns 
 directed above j but in cases of sweet liqueurs such as 
 curagao, Maraschino, creme.de noyeau, parfait amour, &c., 
 &o., the proportions of syrup should be decreased by half 
 a gill, and the liqueur increased by the same quantity. 
 
 861. BLANC-MANGER FLAVOURED WITH ALMONDS, 
 
 Blanch ten ounces of Jordan and one ounce of bitter 
 almonds for two minutes ; drain and remove the skins, then 
 pound them in a mortar; moisten with a few drops of 
 water; put the paste in a basin with a pint of water, 
 cover the basin closely with a sheet of kitchen paper, 
 twisted round the border of the basin, and let it stand 
 thus in a cool place for about an hour ; after which, strain 
 the milk from off the almonds through a napkin with 
 pressure by wringing it at both ends over a basin. 
 
 Melt two and a half ounces of gelatine with half a pound 
 of sugar and one pint and three-quarters of water in a 
 stewpan ; stir over the fire till the gelatine is melted, then 
 strain it through a silk sieve, and when cold add it to the 
 strained. almond milk with a teaspoonful of orange-flour 
 water; mix the lot well together and pour into a three- 
 pint mould, properly imbedded in ice, as described for 
 lemon jelly ; let it remain in the ice for a couple of hours, 
 after which, turn the blanc-manger.out of the mould in the 
 same style as a jelly, and serve. 
 
 862. COFFEE BAVAROIS CREAM. 
 Put a quarter of a pound of freshly roasted coffee-beans 
 into a stewpan with a pint and a half of boiling milk, cover 
 the pan and put it aside for two hours, to allow the milk 
 to infuse and draw all the flavour of the coffee. Break the 
 yolks of eight eggs into a stewpan, add ten ounces of pounded 
 sugar ; mix these well together with a wooden spoon, and 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 423 
 
 when the milk infusion is ready, strain and add it to the 
 yolks of eggs ; stir the lot over the fire with a wooden spoon 
 till the cream or custard begins to thicken, but avoid boiling 
 it, and when it coats the spoon take it off the fire and stir 
 for two minutes longer. Meanwhile have ready one ounce 
 and a half of gelatine, previously steeped in cold water for 
 a quarter of an hour ; drain and mix it with the hot 
 cream, the heat of which will be sufficient to melt it. When 
 this .is done, strain the whole through a pointed strainer 
 into a basin ; put this on about six pounds of broken rough 
 ice, and stir all the time till the contents begin to set ; then 
 whip a pint of double cream, remove the basin from the 
 ice, and mix in the whipped cream lightly. Pour the 
 mixture into a three-pint mould and return it to the 
 broken icej cover the mould with a stewpan-cover, with 
 ice on the top, and let it remain thus in a cool place for 
 about an hour and a half; then when wanted, dip the 
 mould entirely into a basin of water as hot as the hand 
 can bear, take it out quickly and wipe the top of the 
 cream with a clean cloth, then put a dish over the mould ; 
 reverse and remove it, and serve. 
 
 863. VANILLA BAVAROIS CREAM. 
 Put half a stick of vanilla in a stewpan with one pint 
 of boiling cream ; cover the pan and let it steep for a 
 couple of hours. Break eight yolks of eggs in a stewpan, 
 mix in half a pound of pounded sugar and the vanilla 
 cream when ready; stir these over the fire until the 
 custard coats the spoon, without boiling; then add one 
 ounce and three-quarters of drained gelatine, previously 
 steeped in cold water for fifteen minutes ; stir till melted, 
 and strain the lot through, a pointed strainer into a basin ; 
 put this on broken ice and stir the contents until it begins 
 to set, then mix in lightly one pint and a half of whipped 
 
424 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 double cream. Fill a mould with the mixture, put it in 
 the ice, cover the mould with the lid of a stewpan with ice 
 on the top, and after two hours the cream will be set, and 
 can be turned out of the mould in the same manner as 
 the foregoing, and serve. 
 
 864. CHOCOLATE BAVAROIS CREAM. 
 This cream is made in the same way as the above, merely 
 substituting a quarter of a pound of chocolate instead of 
 vanilla to the boiling cream. 
 
 865. STRAWBERRY CREAM. 
 
 Pick the stalks off one pound of strawberries and rub the 
 fruit through a silk sieve or tammy into a basin ; mix in 
 half a pound of pounded sugar and the juice of a lemon ; 
 steep one ounce and a half of gelatine for fifteen minutes 
 in cold water, dissolve it in a small stewpan on the fire 
 with a little water, and strain it through a pointed strainer 
 into the strawberry pulp. Whisk a pint and a half of 
 double cream, and proceed to finish it as for vanilla cream. 
 
 Note. — Raspberries and red currants are prepared in the 
 same manner as the above. 
 
 A copper sugar-boiler should always be used to prepare 
 red fruit, as tinned stewpans will destroy their colour. 
 
 866. CREAM A LA ROMAINE. 
 
 Blanch four ounces of Jordan with one ounce of bitter 
 almonds ; remove the skins, wipe them dry, and chop 
 them rather fine ; put these in a sugar-boiler, and stir 
 them over the fire with a wooden spoon until they have 
 acquired a light-brown colour ; then throw them into a pint 
 of milk, kept boiling for that purpose ; add to it six 
 ounces of sugar and eight yolks of eggs ; stir the whole 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 425 
 
 quickly until the yolks are set. Kemove the boiler from 
 the fire, and continue stirring for a few minutes longer ; 
 then add one ounce and a half of melted gelatine (see 
 Strawberry Cream) ; after which, rub the lot through a 
 tammy, like a pur^e, into a basin ; mix in lightly a pint of 
 whipped cream ; pour the mixture into a mould, and put it 
 in the ice to set, as previously described. 
 
 867. MERINGUES. 
 
 Meringues, if put in a dry place, can be kept a long 
 time, and may often be served with advantage as a sweet, 
 if filled with either whipped cream or preserve ; therefore, 
 whenever whites of eggs are to be had, they should be 
 employed for the purpose. 
 
 Whisk the whites of twelve eggs to a firm white froth ; 
 then with a table-spoon mix very lightly one pound of 
 sifted sugar, taking care not to work the froth too much, 
 for fear of softening it. Cut some stiff white kitchen 
 paper into strips two inches wide, and with a table-spoon 
 gather the froth nearly full, by shaping it up at the side 
 of the bowl in the form of an egg, and drop it upon one 
 of the bands of paper, at the same time drawing the edge 
 of the spoon sharply round the outer base of the meringue, 
 so as to give it a smooth and oval appearance, in order 
 that it may resemble an egg; proceed in this manner 
 until the froth is all used up, keeping the meringues about 
 two inches apart from each other. As each band is filled, 
 place them close to each other on boards of about an inch 
 thick, made for that purpose with well-seasoned wood, 
 and cut, of course, to the size of the oven ; sprinkle some 
 sifted sugar over the meringues, and put them in a very 
 moderately heated oven to bake of a light fawn-colour. 
 When done, each meringue must be carefully removed from 
 the pnper. Scoop out the white part of the inside with a 
 
426 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 dessert-spoon, place them in neat order on a baking-sheet, 
 and return them to a very slack oven to dry, taking care 
 not to let them acquire any more colour. 
 
 When cold, they can be stored away in a box in a dry 
 place ; and when wanted, whip some double cream, season 
 it with a little pounded sugar and either a few drops of 
 orange-flower water or a little pounded vanilla; garnish 
 each meringue with a tablespoonful of this cream ; join 
 two together, dish them up in a pyramidal form on a 
 napkin upon a dish, and serve. 
 
 Note. — Currant jelly or any kind of marmalade can be 
 substituted for whipped cream, but a teaspoonful of either 
 will be found sufficient. 
 
 868. HOW TO FREEZE ICES. 
 
 In order to be able to freeze ices, creams, &c., it is 
 necessary to have at hand an ice-tub with a hole and peg 
 to it, an ice-pot or freezer, and an ioe-s paddle. A freezer 
 with two or three partitions is the best adapted for family 
 use, as by that means two or three sorts of ices can be 
 made at the same time, without extra tubs and rough ice. 
 
 The freezer, properly cleaned, must be put in the centre 
 of the tub, in a cool place, surrounded with roughly pounded 
 ice, mixed with three or four handfuls of common or bay 
 salt, within two inches of the top of the freezer. Pour in 
 the mixture intended for freezing, lay a piece of white paper 
 across the top, and put the lid on ; then begin to turn the 
 freezer by the handle of the lid from right to left for about , 
 twenty minutes, when the lid must be taken off to see if 
 the mixture begins to freeze at the sides ; work this with 
 the spaddle by pushing it in the centre, and continue 
 turning the pot every two seconds; put the lid on and 
 repeat the turning until the mixture is firmly set ; then 
 draw the water off by taking out the peg; replenish it 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 427 
 
 with fresh ice and a handful of salt, place a damp piece of 
 flannel over the top, and keep it in a very cool place until 
 wanted. 
 
 869. LEMON WATER ICES. 
 
 Rub off the rind of two lemons on some lumps of sugar ; 
 add the juice of ten lemons, a pint and a half of clarified 
 syrup (No. 856), and half a pint of plain water. Mix 
 thoroughly and strain through a hair sieve, and freeze as 
 previously described. 
 
 870. CHERRY-WATER ICE. 
 
 Pick off the stalks of two pounds of cherries, pound 
 them in a mortar with their stones ; rub them through a 
 tammy; then add the strained juice of three lemons, one 
 pint and a half of clarified syrup, and half a pint of water. 
 Mix and freeze as in No. 868. 
 
 871. ICED VANILLA CREAM. 
 
 Boil in a stewpan- one quart of cream ; put in it two 
 sticks of vanilla, split lengthwise in four; when boiling, 
 cover the stewpan and let the cream infuse for an hour. 
 
 Break eight yolks of eggs in a stewpan, add ten ounces 
 of pounded sugar, and stir them together with a wooden 
 spoon ; after which, mix in the vanilla cream and stir over 
 the fire without boiling until the cream coats the spoon, 
 then strain it through a tammy into a basin and let it get 
 cold, giving it an occasional stir to prevent a skin forming 
 on the top. When cold pour it in the freezer previously 
 set in the ice (see No. 868), work it in the usual way, and 
 when it is set, mix in half a pint of whipped double cream, 
 close the freezer, continue turning it, as described in 
 " How to Freeze," then cover the freezer and put it by till 
 wanted. 
 
428 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 To dish ices, particular care must be taken, after having 
 removed the flannel from the tub, to wipe around the top 
 of the freezer with a cloth, before taking off the lid; then 
 dish up the ice with a spaddle on a napkin upon a dish 
 in an irregular pile, and serve. 
 
 Should however, the ice be preferred to be served 
 moulded, proceed as follows : — When the cream has been 
 worked as described and properly set, fill the ice-mould 
 with it. Out a sheet of white paper to fit the inould, 
 leaving about an inch all round; put the cover on thisj 
 and if not well closed, spread some butter over the open- 
 ing, then imbed the mould in the pounded ice and salt, 
 place a piece of folded wet flannel on the top, and let it 
 thus remain in a cool place till the ice is wanted ; after 
 which, wipe the top carefully, turn the ice out of the mould 
 in the same manner as a jelly, on to a napkin on a dish, 
 and serve. 
 
 Note. — Chocolate, orange, and lemon ice cream are 
 prepared in the same way, simply substituting the selected 
 flavouring for vanilla. 
 
 872. ICED COFFEE CREAM. 
 
 Put a quarter of a pound of freshly roasted coffee-berries 
 into a quart of boiling cream, cover the stewpan, an4 let 
 it infuse for an hour. 
 
 Mix eight yolks of eggs in a stewpan with ten ounces of 
 pounded sugar, stir the lot with a wooden spoon ; add the 
 coffee cream, stir over the fire without boiling until the 
 eggs thicken and coat the spoon ; then strain the cream, 
 and finish the freezing as directed in No. 871. 
 
 873. ICED STRAWBERRY CREAM. 
 Pick two pounds of ripe strawberries and rub them 
 through a tammy or silk sieve into a basin ; add to this 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 429 
 
 puree ten ounces of pounded sugar, a quart of cream, and 
 the strained juice of a lemon ; mix the lot well together 
 with a wooden spoon, strain it through a silk sieve into the 
 freezer, properly set in ice (see No. 868) ; add a few drops 
 of prepared cochineal to give the cream a pink tinge ; work 
 the contents with the spaddle, and when partly set, mix 
 in half a pint of whipped double cream, and finish the 
 freezing as directed in the foregoing. 
 
 Note. — Raspberry and currant ice creams are prepared 
 in the same way. 
 
 874, ICED FRUIT PUDDING. 
 
 Stone a quarter of a pound of raisins and cut them in 
 halves; wash and dry two ounces of currants; cut one 
 ounce of candied orange-peel or citron, and a similar 
 quantity of angelica in small dice ; put these in a sugar- 
 boiler with half a gill of Maraschino and simmer until the 
 liqueur is reduced, when the sugar-boiler must be removed 
 from the fire. Boil one quart of cream, put in it a stick 
 of vanilla split lengthwise in four, aid let it steep for an 
 hour with the lid on. Break eight yolks of eggs into a 
 stewpan, mix in half a pound of pounded sugar, add the 
 vanilla cream, and stir the contents over the fire without 
 boiling, until the cream thickens and coats the spoon ; then 
 strain in the usual way into a basin, giving it an occasional 
 stir, to prevent a skin forming on the surface, and when 
 cold pour it into the freezer ready set in the ice (see No. 
 868), and proceed to freeze in the usual way till the cream 
 begins to set; then mix in gradually the chopped fruit, 
 stir these in the ice with the spaddle, continue and finish 
 the freezing as in vanilla ice cream, and serve either 
 moulded or roughly set on a napkin on a dish. 
 
 Note. — Any kind of preserved fruit, such as greengages, 
 
430 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 plums, pine-apple, apricots, &c., cut in small dice, can be 
 substituted for the above fruit. 
 
 875. NESSELRODE PUDDING. 
 
 Peel two pounds of fine cbesnuts; blanch them in 
 boiling water to remove the second skin, and put them 
 in a stewpan over the fire, with a quart of clarified sugar 
 syrup and half a stick of vanilla, to simmer gently until 
 the chesnuts are well done; then drain and rub them 
 t'lrough a hair sieve into a basin. 
 
 Mis in a stewpan eight yolks of eggs with half a pound 
 of pounded sugar ; add one quart of cool boiled cream, stir 
 the contents over the fire without boiling, until the eggs 
 begin to thicken ; then mix in the chesnut pur^e and half 
 a gill of Maraschino ; strain the lot through a tammy into 
 a basin to get cold. Meanwhile wash and dry two ounces 
 of currants ; stone two ounces of raisins and cut them in 
 halves, and two ounces of either candied citron or mirabel 
 plums cut in small dice ; put these mixed fruit into a sugar- 
 boiler over the fire, with half a pint of clarified syrup and 
 boil them for ten minutes, then strain in the usual way. 
 When the chesnut cream is cold, pour it in the freezer 
 ready set in the ice (see No. 868), work it with the spaddle 
 until it is partly frozen, then add gradually the chopped 
 fruit; mix them well with the ice cream, continue and 
 finish the freezing as in No. 874, and serve in the same 
 style. 
 
 876. APPLE JELLY. 
 
 Select some good Oolville or Wellington apples; peel, 
 core, slice, and put them in the preserving-pan npith enough 
 water to cover them well. Boil the apples till they are 
 melted, then drain them on a hair sieve over a basin pre- 
 viously weighed; now weigh the juice, and f6r every 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 431 
 
 pound of it add ten ounces of lump-sugar. Put the juice 
 and sugar in the pan, again properly cleaned, over the fire 
 till the sugar is dissolved, then pass the jelly through a 
 napkin and boil it in small quantities, say six pounds at a 
 timB, till the jelly marks 28° on the syrup-gauge, when it 
 ■will be done. Pour this into pots, and when cold, lay on 
 each top of the jelly a round of paper (cut of the right size) 
 dipped in brandy, then another round of paper tied around 
 the top of the pots with string, and keep the preserve in a 
 dry_CGol place. 
 
 Note. — The apple marmalade which remained on the 
 sieve may be used for charlotte or open tarts. 
 
 877. APRICOT JAM. 
 
 Cut eight pounds of apricots into slices ; put them in 
 a basin with five pounds of pounded sugar; stir with a 
 wooden spoon till the sugar is melted ; then put the whole 
 into the preserving-pan to boil for ten minutes, stirring 
 the while with the skimmer; take this out of the jam, let 
 what is on it cool, and if it feels greasy under the finger 
 the jam is done. The same thing can also be ascertained by 
 pouring a little into a cold plate ; if it shows little tendency 
 to spread, it is done. Pour the jam into pots, and cover 
 them with paper when cold, as described in the previous 
 number. 
 
 878. QUINCE JELLY. 
 
 Cut the quinces in quarters ; peel, core, slice, and weigh 
 them, and allow for every pound of fruit put in the pre- 
 serving-pan a quart of water ; then boil till the quinces are 
 reduced to a pulp; drain them on a sieve over a basin, 
 and to each pound of juice add ten ounces ,of lump-sugar ; 
 after which, finish as for apple jelly 
 
432 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 879. CURRANT JELLY. 
 
 For this jelly it is advisable to have half red and half 
 white currants, say four pounds of each, and two pounds 
 of raspberries ; put the lot into the preserving-pan with 
 a quart of water, and boil it on a sharp fire for about eight 
 minutes, stirring the whole with a skimmer, to prevent the 
 fruit adhering to the bottom of the pan ; then pour the 
 fruit into a hair sieve, over a basin ; rub and press it well 
 to squeeze all the liquor out of it ; after which, weigh the 
 juice, put it back in the pan, and for every pound ten 
 ounces of lump-sugar must be added ; stir the contents 
 over the fire until the sugar is well melted ; strain the 
 syrup through a tammy; boil it in two parts on a brisk 
 fire, and when marking 28° on the syrup-gauge it is done; 
 then finish as the apple jelly. 
 
 List of Utensils Kequieed foe a Family of 
 Six Peesons. 
 
 I herewith give the list of kitchen utensils required for 
 a lamily of from six to twenty-four persons. Of course, 
 this list can to a great extent be modified, according to 
 the number and circumstances of the family ; but it must 
 be borne in mind that there are but few households where 
 there is not, now and then, an extra number of guests 
 during the year, and that nothing tends to upset the 
 temper of a cook more than the want of certain indis- 
 jiensable utensils at the time when everybody is busy, 
 and which cannot then be obtained. I therefore strongly 
 rt'coinmend the furnishing of every necessary implement 
 in a kitchen, if good cooking is to be expected : — 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 433 
 
 Two iron gridirons of eight and ten inches respectively, 
 for meat and fish. 
 
 One fish-kettle with drainer, two feet long by about nine 
 inches wide. , 
 
 One turbot-kettle with drainer, about eighteen inches 
 long. 
 
 Two oval braizing-pans with their covers and drainers, 
 twelve and fifteen inches long by eight and ten inches 
 wide, and seven inches deep, respectively. 
 
 Two untinned copper sugar-boilers, six and ten inches 
 in diameter respectively, for stewed fruit, syrup, &c. 
 
 One bain-marie, with a set' of five or six pans all in 
 tinned copper. 
 
 One four-gallon tinned copper stock-pot and cover, for 
 making ordinary stock and broth. 
 , One two-gallon stock-pot and cover, for broth. 
 
 Twelve tinned copper stewpans and covers, varying in 
 size from four to twelve inches in diameter. 
 
 Three saut6-pans with covers, eight, ten, and twelve 
 inches in diameter. 
 
 Two ordinary tinned iron pans, for blanching vege- 
 tables, &c. 
 
 One copper preserving-pan, fourteen inches in diameter. 
 
 One tinned copper slice, for boiled meat, &c. 
 
 One broth-skimmer. 
 
 One copper skimmer for preserves. 
 
 Three tinned iron gravy -spoons. 
 
 Three tinned iron soup-ladles of different sizes. 
 
 One cutlet-bat. 
 
 One chopper. 
 
 One meat-cleaver. 
 
 One meat- saw. 
 
 Four kitchen-knives, assorted. 
 
 One steel. 
 
 2 E 
 
434 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 Two colanders, of six and nine inclies in diameter re- 
 spectively, for draining, &c. 
 
 Three baking- sheets, with two -inch return pieces, from 
 eight to twelve inches in diameter, for baking meat, &c, 
 
 Three plain baking-sheets, to fit in the oven for baking 
 pastry, &c. 
 
 Two tin colanders, four and five inches in diameter, to 
 strain sauces, &o. These should hav^ very fine holes and 
 may be in many instances substituted for a tammy sieve. 
 
 Two oval tinned copper dishes for gratin, ten and fifteen 
 inches respectively. 
 
 One round tinned copper dish for gratin, nine inches 
 diameter. 
 
 One salamander to glaze and brown gratin. 
 
 Two tinned iron frying-kettles, ten by seven inches, and 
 fourteen by ten, and six inches deep, respectively. These 
 are made in one piece without any soldering. 
 
 Two wire frying-baskets. 
 
 Three iron frying-pans, seven, eight, and nine inches 
 diameter respectively, the former to be kept specially for 
 omelets. 
 
 Two wire sieves, one very fine. 
 
 One silk sieve. 
 
 Two tammy sieves. 
 
 Six diaper cloths for straining broth and jellies. 
 
 One jelly-bag and stand. 
 
 Two pointed strainers. 
 
 Six wooden spoons of diflFerent sizes. 
 
 One hard-wood forcemeat- presser. 
 
 One marble mortar, nine inches (Mameter, with one hard- 
 wood pestle. 
 
 One wood block to chop meat on. 
 
 Two chopping-boards, fifteen by ten, and two inches 
 thick. 
 
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 435 
 
 One set of measures, from half a gill to a quart. 
 
 One set of scales and weights, from a quarter of an 
 ounce up to twenty-eight pounds. 
 
 One copper egg-boiler and two whisks, one large and one 
 small. 
 
 Six common dishes. 
 
 Three pie-dishes. 
 
 Six earthenware pans, of three different sizes. 
 
 Twelve hasins of different sizes. 
 
 One sausage-machine. 
 
 One filter. 
 
 One pair of large scissors to cut the fins of fish. 
 
 Two tin funnels. 
 
 One clock. 
 
 One meat-safe. 
 
 Qne ice-bucket with a hole, and a peg by the side at the 
 bottom. 
 
 One freezer with three divisions. 
 
 One spaddle. 
 
 One large daubing-needle, for larding large braizing 
 joints. 
 
 One medium ditto, ditto, ditto. 
 
 One box of twelve larding-needles for venison, sweet- 
 bread, fillet of beef, and cushion of veal. 
 
 One tin sugar-dredger for pounded sugar. 
 
 One seasoning-box with half a dozen compartments. 
 
 One glazing-brush. 
 
 Two pastry-brushes. 
 
 One oval copper pie-mould. 
 
 Two moulds for creams, jellies, and ices. 
 
 Two cylinder ditto. 
 
 Two open tart-moulds. 
 
 One plain mould for savarin. 
 
 One ditto, ditto,, for charlotte. 
 
436 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 
 
 Twelve small moulds for madeleines. 
 
 Two boxes of paste-cutters, one plain and the other 
 fluted. 
 
 On box of long cutters for vegetables. 
 
 One syrup-gauge, and a tall testing-glass to ascertain the 
 quantity of sugar in syrup and preserves. This gauge, 
 to be correct, must register zero when plunged in cold 
 water. 
 
 Six iron skewers of different sizes. 
 
 One ice-prick. 
 
 Three tmssing-needles of different sizes. 
 
 One eight-cup French coffee percolator. 
 
INDEX 
 
 OF BROTH, SOUPS. MACARONI, RICE, AND RISOTTO. 
 
 
 No. 
 
 
 No. 
 
 BBOTH, or Consommd 
 
 2 
 
 Gnochetti with Butter . . 99 
 
 Chicken . 
 
 7 
 
 Soup, Goose Giblet 
 
 . 130 
 
 For Ohiltlren or Convales 
 
 
 ^ Gravy 
 
 S 
 
 cents .- 
 
 137 
 
 Gravy, Chicken 
 
 . 18 
 
 Condensed or Glaze . 
 
 15 
 
 Game 
 
 . 19 
 
 Crayfish . 
 
 29 
 
 Fish . 
 
 20 
 
 Fish .... 
 
 2S 
 
 Vegetables 
 
 21 
 
 Another 
 
 26 
 
 
 
 Frog .... 
 
 27 
 
 SOUP, Hare, English Style 63 
 
 Game & la Chasseur . 
 
 10 
 
 Hare, Susinoise 
 
 . . 67 
 
 Another 
 
 11 
 
 Jelly, Simple 
 
 . 150 
 
 How to Make, in a fe« 
 
 
 Julienne . 
 
 14 
 
 Mitmtes 
 
 13 
 
 Leek . 
 
 . . 38 
 
 Mutton or Scotch 
 
 136 
 
 Lettuce . 
 
 . 42 
 
 Partridge . 
 
 9 
 
 Lettuce, Stufied 
 
 • 43 
 
 , Babbit i, la Proven^ale 
 
 8 
 
 Lombardo . 
 
 . . S8 
 
 Befreshing 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Snail, for Obstinate Cougl 
 
 149 
 
 ]»LA.CA°R.ONI Car 
 
 dinale . 86 
 
 Veal .... 
 
 6 
 
 Cheese 
 
 . 88 
 
 Vegetables 
 
 30 
 
 Citizen Style 
 
 . 90 
 
 Another 
 
 31 
 
 Country Style 
 
 • 93 
 
 
 
 Dominicaine 
 
 . . 87 
 
 SOUP, Artois 
 
 62 
 
 Gratiu 
 
 . 92 
 
 Asparagus, Clear 
 
 33 
 
 Italian Style 
 
 . . 89 
 
 Beef-tea . 
 
 148 
 
 Milanaise . 
 
 • g* 
 
 Beer and Wine . 
 
 128 
 
 Monglas . 
 
 . . 8s 
 
 Bread and Easpings . 
 
 140 
 
 NapoUtaine 
 
 91 
 
 Brunoise , 
 
 17 
 
 Palermo . 
 
 ■ 83 
 
 Cabbage . 
 
 34 
 
 Plain, 
 
 . 81 
 
 Milanaise . 
 
 35 
 
 .Beine 
 
 . 84 
 
 Calf's Tail, Indian . 
 
 133 
 
 REMARKS on, a 
 
 nd Paste of 
 
 Chantilly . 
 
 49 
 
 all Descriptions, 
 
 i,nd how to 
 
 Clermont . 
 
 47 
 
 Cook it, page 49 
 
 
 Cock a Leekie . 
 
 13s 
 
 Sarde 
 
 . 82 
 
 Condi 
 
 23 
 
 
 
 Dawn 
 
 77. 
 
 Soup, Manor-House 
 
 ■ 39 
 
 Egg . . . ■ 
 
 . 60 
 
 Minestrone 
 
 . 106 
 
 Poached Styrienne 
 
 131 
 
 Mock-Turtle 
 
 . . 6s 
 
 Another 
 
 132 
 
 Modena 
 
 . 54 
 
 Endive 
 
 . 4S 
 
 Navarin . 
 
 . . 63 
 
438 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 
 No. 
 
 
 No. 
 
 Soup, New Carrot . 
 
 41 
 
 Soup, Rice, and Chesnuts 
 
 . 124 
 
 Onion Lyonnaiae 
 
 78 
 
 Flour . 
 
 146' 
 
 Onion Maigte . 
 
 79 
 
 k, la Franijaise 
 
 117 
 
 Ox-tail . 
 
 65 
 
 au Gratiu . 
 
 120 
 
 Oyster 
 
 127 
 
 Rice and Milk . > 
 
 122 
 
 Pap a la Eeine . 
 
 139 
 
 and Pheasant . 
 
 119 
 
 Simple 
 
 138 
 
 with Plain Broth 
 
 . 102 
 
 Paste with Broth or Milk 
 
 147 
 
 with Potatoes . 
 
 . 104 
 
 Soup, Green Pea 
 
 40 
 
 Remarks on, page 61 
 
 
 Pearl-Barley . 
 
 126 
 
 and Vegetables . 
 
 . 105 
 
 Polenta Napolitaine 
 
 lOI 
 
 Risotto k la Chasseur 
 
 . Ill 
 
 Pi^montaise 
 
 100 
 
 k la Genoise 
 
 • '25 
 
 Soup, Polish . 
 
 22 
 
 i I'ltalienne 
 
 109 
 
 . Polonaise . 
 
 134 
 
 Another 
 
 . no 
 
 Potato Flour . 
 
 144 
 
 Housewife Style 
 
 121 
 
 Potato, Swiss . 
 
 76 
 
 Milanaise , 
 
 . fo8 
 
 Puree of Crayfish, oi 
 
 
 Piemontaise 
 
 107 
 
 Bisque of Crayfish 
 
 123 
 
 Poniastowsky . 
 
 115 
 
 Pur^e of Chicken 
 
 64 
 
 Fortugaise . 
 
 "3 
 
 Crecy . 
 
 24 
 
 Spanish Style . 
 
 . 112 
 
 Frog , 
 
 28 
 
 a la Turque 
 
 • "4 
 
 Game . 
 
 64 
 
 Soup k 1 1 Romaine . 
 
 • 56 
 
 Green Peas . 
 
 SO 
 
 k la Rossiul 
 
 • 59 
 
 T.entils 
 
 S2 
 
 Sago . 
 
 . 142 
 
 Potatoes and Chervil 
 
 SS 
 
 Semolina . 
 
 • 145 
 
 h, la Reine . 
 
 61 
 
 Sheep's Head . 
 
 80 
 
 Turnips 
 
 37 
 
 Sorrel, Clear 
 
 • 44 
 
 White Haricot Beans 
 
 53 
 
 Sorrel, Thick . 
 
 • 45 
 
 Quenelles of Chicken 
 
 72 
 
 Spring 
 
 ■ IS 
 
 of. Game 
 
 72 
 
 Stock, Family . 
 
 3 
 
 German 
 
 74 
 
 for Gravy and Sauces 
 
 4 
 
 Potatoes 
 
 71 
 
 Ordinary . 
 
 . I 
 
 & la Reine . 
 
 7S 
 
 Soup, Stiirgeon 
 
 . 129 
 
 of Rice 
 
 69 
 
 Tagliatelli k la Chasseur 
 
 . 96 
 
 of Vegetables 
 
 70 
 
 k la Genoise 
 
 . 96a 
 
 Venitienne . 
 
 73 
 
 , Housewife Style 
 
 ■ 95 
 
 Ravioli k I'ltalienne 
 
 97 
 
 Soup, Tapioca , 
 
 143 
 
 S, la Romaine . 
 
 98 
 
 Tripe Milanaiae . 
 
 55 
 
 Rice, Boiled for Stewed Fruit 
 
 848 
 
 Turnips 
 
 36 
 
 Soup, Rice, and Cabbage . 
 
 T03 
 
 Velout^ . 
 
 141 
 
 and Cream Chasseur 
 
 118 
 
 Venitienne 
 
 • 57 
 
 and Cream Reale 
 
 116 
 
 
 
INDEX 
 
 OF SAUCES, BUTTER, AND ESSENCES. 
 
 
 No. 
 
 SAUCE, Allemande 
 
 . IS6 
 
 Apple 
 
 . I8i 
 
 Bechamel . 
 
 • IS4 
 
 Aaother 
 
 • 15s 
 
 Blanquette 
 
 . 178 
 
 Butter 
 
 • 157 
 
 for Aaparagus . 
 
 . 216 
 
 Anchovy . 
 
 . i6r 
 
 Cayenne and Cm 
 
 ry . 168 
 
 Clarified . 
 
 . 160 
 
 Crayfish or Lobst 
 
 er . 169 
 
 Horse-radish 
 
 . 16S 
 
 Maltre d'H6teI 
 
 . 226 
 
 Melted 
 
 ; 176 
 
 Montpellier 
 
 . 163 
 
 Noir or Brown 
 
 . 164 
 
 Perigord 
 
 . 167 
 
 Eavigote . 
 
 . 162 
 
 Tmffle 
 
 . 166 
 
 and Ketchup 
 
 • 177 
 
 Bread 
 
 .183 
 
 Caper 
 
 • 193 
 
 Ououinber . 
 
 . 203 
 
 Devilled . 
 
 . 201 
 
 Egg . 
 
 . 182 
 
 Espagnole . 
 
 • iSi 
 
 Another 
 
 • 152 
 
 Essence of Anchovies 
 
 . 174 
 
 Chicken 
 
 • 173 
 
 Fish . 
 
 • 17s 
 
 Game 
 
 . 172 
 
 Mushrooms 
 
 . 171 
 
 Truffles . 
 
 . 170 
 
 Sauce, Fennel . , 
 
 . 194 
 
 FinanciSre . 
 
 . . 187 
 
 Genoise 
 
 . 207 
 
 Gherkin . 
 
 192 
 
 Gooseberry 
 
 . 180 
 
 Hare . 
 
 . 200 
 
 Sauce, Hollandaise or Dutch 
 Horse-radish 
 
 Cold . 
 Indian 
 Italian 
 
 Sharp . 
 Maltre d'H6tel 
 Mayonnaise 
 
 Another 
 
 Eavigote 
 Mint . 
 Mushrooms 
 Mustard . 
 Napolitaine 
 Onion 
 Oyster 
 . Poulette . 
 Kavigote . 
 Eed Currant Jelly 
 Eemarks on Different 
 
 Sauces, Essences, and 
 
 Melted Butter, page 80 
 Eeraoulade 
 Kobert 
 Eomaine . 
 Salmis 
 Shrimp 
 Sicilian 
 Supreme . 
 Tartare 
 Tomato 
 Truffle 
 Uxelles, D' 
 
 Stuffing 
 VeloutA . 
 Venison 
 Venitienne 
 Victoria 
 "White 
 
 No. 
 184 
 191 
 224 
 iSS 
 204 
 20s 
 
 IS9 
 218 
 219 
 
 220 
 22s 
 197 
 223 
 208 
 202 
 186 
 179 
 189 
 2IS 
 
 222 
 190 
 
 209 
 
 •99 
 213 
 211 
 188 
 221 
 217 
 198 
 I9S 
 19s 
 IS3 
 196 
 206 
 214 
 158 
 
 439 
 
GENERAL INDEX. 
 
 
 
 No. 
 
 
 No. 
 
 AIiIiEHANDE Sauce 
 
 IS6 
 
 Baked Pike, Citizen Style 
 
 . 48.? 
 
 Almond Paste . - . . 
 
 793 
 
 Barbel Broiled Mattre d'Hotel 500 
 
 Blanc-raanger 
 
 
 86i 
 
 Eeniarks on, ))age 234 
 
 Anchovy Butter 
 
 
 i6i^ 
 
 *»<Batter Paste, for Frying 
 
 • 317 
 
 Canop^s . 
 
 
 788^ 
 
 Buvarois Cream Chocolat 
 
 3 . 864 
 
 Essence' 
 
 
 174 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 . 862 
 
 Fried . 
 
 
 336 
 
 Romaine 
 
 . 86s 
 
 on Toast . 
 
 
 787 
 
 Strawberry . 
 
 . 86s 
 
 Apple Charlotte 
 
 
 850 
 
 Vanilla 
 
 . 863 
 
 Fritters . 
 
 
 8l2-<= 
 
 C^Beans, Frencli . 
 
 • 770 
 
 Jelly . 
 
 
 876 
 
 For Garnish 
 
 . 290 
 
 Pudding . 
 
 
 829 
 
 Maltre d'H6tel 
 
 ■ 772 
 
 Sauce 
 
 
 i8i 
 
 Purie of . 
 
 . 236 
 
 Stewed . 
 
 
 841 
 
 Sautes 
 
 • 771 
 
 Tart . 
 
 
 . 810 
 
 Broad, for Garnish 
 
 . 289 
 
 Apricot Jam . 
 
 
 877 
 
 Poulette . 
 
 ■ 77S 
 
 Stewed 
 
 
 846 
 
 Puree of 
 
 • 776 
 
 Artichokes Barigoul 
 
 3 
 
 • 7S4 
 
 Haricot, Dried . 
 
 • 773 
 
 Butter Sauce 
 
 
 7S3 
 
 for Garnish 
 
 • 294 
 
 Fried . 
 
 
 756 
 
 Housewife Style 
 
 • 774 
 
 Italienne . 
 
 
 • 755 
 
 Bechamel Sauce 
 
 • IS4 
 
 Poivrade . 
 
 
 756 
 
 Another . 
 
 • 15s 
 
 Jerusalem, Batter Sauce 
 
 7SI 
 
 Beef Boiled Countryman 
 
 Style 383 
 
 for Garnish 
 
 293 
 
 Croquets of 
 
 • 38s 
 
 Italienne 
 
 752 
 
 Gratin ' 
 
 . 382 
 
 Pickled 
 
 752 
 
 Mince of 
 
 • 384 
 
 Artois Soup 
 
 . 62 
 
 Mironton . 
 
 . 380 
 
 Asparagus with Brown Butter 
 
 760 
 
 Salad of . 
 
 . 386 
 
 Butter Sauce . 
 
 758 
 
 Sharp Sauce 
 
 . 381 
 
 Soup, Clear 
 
 33 
 
 Braized k la Mode 
 
 . 506 
 
 Milauaise . 
 
 759 
 
 Citizen Style 
 
 • 503 
 
 Points, for Garnish . 
 
 287 
 
 Milanaise . 
 
 ■ 504 
 
 Oil and Vinegar 
 
 761 
 
 Napolitaine 
 
 ■ 505 
 
 Aurore, Eggs Ji 1' . 
 
 252 
 
 Brisket of, Ecarlate 
 
 . 502 
 
 Trout a 1' . 
 
 481 
 
 Fillets of. Green Pea 
 
 J . S" 
 
 
 
 Indienne . 
 
 . 508 
 
 BABA Cake . 
 
 881 
 
 Jardiniere . ' 
 
 ■ 5°9 
 
 Back of Hare, Italian Sharj 
 
 ) 
 
 Jerusalem Ai-tic] 
 
 lokes S" 
 
 Sauce . 
 
 593 
 
 Mashed Potatoes 
 
 • 5" 
 
 Baked Cod Stuffed . 
 
 406 
 
 Mjgnons with C 
 
 ham- 
 
 Ham, Housewife Style 
 
 572 
 
 pignons 
 
 ■ 513 
 
 Perch, Angler S 
 
 tyle . 
 
 493 
 
 with Olives 
 
 • 51° 
 
 440 
 
INDEX. 
 
 4^1 
 
 Beef, Fillets of, Puree of Celery 
 Fillet of Steak Oliateau- 
 
 briand 
 Kiduey Pi^montaise 
 h, la Milanaise 
 Napolitain^ 
 Forter-House Steak 
 Kemaiks on, and Boasting 
 
 in general, page 241 
 Bound of. Bailed English 
 Style .... 
 Bump Steak, Anchovy 
 Butter . 
 Chasseur . 
 Oyster Sauce 
 Scollops of, with Chesnut 
 
 Purge .. 
 Steak and Kidney Pie 
 Oyster Pie . 
 Kidney Pudding 
 Oyster Pudding . 
 
 Tea 
 
 Beer and Wine Soup 
 Beignet Fritters 
 Birds, Pudding of Small . 
 Biscuits, Champagne 
 
 Italian .... 
 Bisque of Crayfish with Eioe . 
 Black Game Fie 
 Game, Boast 
 Pudding, Broiled 
 Blanc-manger, Almond . 
 Bknquette Sauce . 
 
 Veal 
 
 Boar Cutlets, English Style . 
 Espagnole . 
 Sarde .... 
 . Head, Stuffed . 
 
 • Bemarks on Wild, page 279 
 
 Boiled Beef, Countryman Style 
 
 Brisket of, Ec!£rlate . 
 
 Bound of, English Style . 
 
 - Brill . 
 
 Ciipon with Bice 
 Capon with Tarragon 
 Cliioken with Bice 
 wiih Bock' salt 
 with Tarragon 
 Cod, Oyster Sauce 
 Crabs 
 
 Crawfish . 
 Eggs . 
 
 Haddock, Smoked 
 Ham with Spinach 
 Lobsters . 
 
 No. 
 5" 
 
 S12 
 35° 
 S04 
 SOS 
 S17 
 
 SOI 
 
 S17 
 SIS 
 S16 
 
 SM 
 638 
 689 
 702 
 701 
 148 
 128 
 
 81S 
 704 
 809 
 808 
 
 123 
 697 
 
 673 
 365 
 861 
 178 
 S24 
 574 
 S7S 
 S73 
 576 
 
 383 
 S02 
 
 SOI 
 403 
 630 
 631 
 619 
 618 
 617 
 40s 
 477 
 477 
 240 
 
 458 
 570 
 477 
 
 Boiled Mackerel , 
 
 Mutton , . . . 
 
 Leg of . . . 
 
 Pike, Italian Sharpe Sauce 
 Plaice .... 
 Pork, Leg of . . . 
 Salmon, Lobster Sauce 
 Turbot, HoUandaise Sauce 
 Turkey, Celery Sauce 
 
 Oyster Sauce 
 
 Minced, Poached Eggs 
 
 Napolitaine 
 
 Wiiiting 
 Bouch^es k la Chasseur . 
 of Crabs . 
 Financiere . 
 Italienne . 
 of Lobster . 
 Monglas . 
 Oysters 
 Palermo . 
 Eoyale 
 Toulouse . 
 Valenciennes 
 Boudins of Cbicken, Bichelieu . 
 
 Partridge 
 
 Pheasant 
 "Bouquet Grami," or a Bunch 
 of Aromatic Herbs, page 11 
 Brains, Calf's, Fried 
 
 Omelet 
 Ox, Montpellier Butter . 
 
 Napolitaine 
 Boebuck .... 
 Braized Beef, k la Mode . 
 
 Citizen Style 
 
 Milanaise , 
 
 Napolitaine 
 Cabbage for Garnish . 
 Calf's Liver Genoise . 
 Capon Milanaise 
 Duck with Cabbage . 
 
 Green Peas 
 
 Olives 
 Ham with Stewed Peas . 
 
 Kid 
 
 Mutton Cutlets Jardiniere 
 
 Pompadour 
 
 Soubise . 
 
 Leg of, Bretone . 
 Partridges Perigueux 
 Pig's Liver 
 Turkey Italienne 
 
 JardiniAre . 
 Veal, Cushion of 
 
 No. 
 419 
 389 
 SSI 
 484 
 463 
 S66 
 390 
 398 
 646 
 647 
 
 387 
 388 
 
 441 
 322 
 322 
 322 
 
 319 
 322 
 322 
 322 
 320 
 321 
 322 
 322 
 623 
 671 
 666 
 
 330 
 264 
 
 36s 
 364 
 583 
 506 
 
 S03 
 504 
 S03 
 29s 
 373 
 632 
 
 637 
 634 
 636 
 
 S7I 
 S57 
 54 f 
 S40 
 539 
 55° 
 669 
 
 371 
 
 644 
 
 64s 
 525 
 
442 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Uraized Veal, Housewife Style 
 
 No. 
 518 
 
 Broiled Salmon Cutlets, 
 
 No. 
 In- 
 
 Italienne . 
 
 S19 
 
 dienne 
 
 • 394 
 
 JVIac6dolne . 
 
 525 
 
 Tartare Sauce . 
 
 • 393 
 
 with New Carrots 
 
 52s 
 
 Sausages . , . 
 
 . 376 
 
 Onions glazed . 
 
 525 
 
 Sheep's Kidney . 
 
 ■ 345 
 
 Spinach . 
 
 525 
 
 Sprats 
 
 ■ 473 
 
 Stewed Mushrooms 
 
 525 
 
 Tomatoes . 
 
 . 780 
 
 Stewed Peas . 
 
 52s 
 
 Trout, Hollandaise Sauce . 482 
 
 Stuffed Tomatoes 
 
 525 
 
 Veal Cutlets, Plain . 
 
 • 532 
 
 Toulouse . 
 
 525 
 
 Tomato Sauce . 
 
 ■ 532 
 
 White Haricot Beans 
 
 525 
 
 Whiting . 
 
 422 
 
 Bread and Batter Pudding 
 
 822 
 
 Broth or CousommA 
 
 2 
 
 Breadings 
 
 269 
 
 Chicken . 
 
 7 
 
 Bread Raspings Soup 
 
 140 
 
 Condensed, or Glaze . 
 
 . 16 
 
 Raspings . 
 
 268 
 
 for Convalescents 
 
 ,n,nd 
 
 Sauce 
 
 183 
 
 Children . 
 
 137 
 
 Panada 
 
 26s 
 
 Crayfish . 
 
 . zg 
 
 Bream, Maltre d'H6tel . 
 
 448 
 
 Fish .... 
 
 • 2S 
 
 Remarks on, page 207 
 
 
 Another 
 
 . 26 
 
 Breast of Mutton, Broiled 
 
 546 
 
 Frog .... 
 
 27 
 
 Housewife Style 
 
 S47 
 
 Game Chasseur . 
 
 10 
 
 Roebuck, Lyoimaise . 
 
 580 
 
 Game 
 
 II 
 
 Veal, Roast 
 
 536 
 
 How to Make, in a 
 
 few 
 
 with Stuflnng 
 
 S3S 
 
 Minutes 
 
 ■ 13 
 
 Brill .... 
 
 403 
 
 Mutton or Scotch 
 
 136 
 
 Brioche Paste . 
 
 792 
 
 Partridge . . . 
 
 
 Brisket of Beef Ecarlate . 
 
 502 
 
 Rabbit Provenfale . 
 
 8 
 
 Broad Beans for Garnish . 
 
 289 
 
 Refreshing 
 
 12 
 
 Poulette 
 
 77S 
 
 Snail, for Obstinate Ci 
 
 ugh 149 
 
 Pur^'e of 
 
 776 
 
 Veal .... 
 
 6 
 
 Broiled Black Pudding . 
 
 366 
 
 Vegetables 
 
 30 
 
 Boar Cutlets, English Styl 
 
 ' 574 
 
 Another 
 
 ■ 31 
 
 Chops of Lamb . 
 
 S4S 
 
 Brown Bread and Butter ] 
 
 'ud- 
 
 Mutton 
 
 S4S 
 
 ding 
 
 . 822 
 
 Roebuck 
 
 579 
 
 Brunoise Soup . 
 
 • 17 
 
 Epigrammes of Lamb witl 
 
 
 Brussels Sprouts, Boiled . 
 
 ■ 737 
 
 Asparagus-points 
 
 553 
 
 Boiled with Butte 
 
 r . 738 
 
 Cucumber . 
 
 553 
 
 for Garnish . 
 
 . 291 
 
 French Beans 
 
 553 
 
 Bunch or "Bouquet Gai 
 
 ni," 
 
 Green Peas 
 
 553 
 
 page II 
 
 
 Italienne . 
 
 554 
 
 Butter, Anchovy 
 
 . 161 
 
 Mac^doine . 
 
 553 
 
 Cayenne and Curry . 
 
 . 168 
 
 Proven gale , 
 
 553 
 
 Clarified . 
 
 . 160 
 
 Haddock, Maltre d'H6tel 
 
 453 
 
 Crayfish or Lobster . 
 
 . 169 
 
 Kidney Veal, Indienne 
 
 349 
 
 Horse-radish . 
 
 i6S 
 
 Mackerel, Maltre d'Hotel 
 
 420 
 
 and Ketchup Sauce . 
 
 177 
 
 Mullet, Grey,Maltred'H&t 
 
 el 439 
 
 Maltre d'H6tel . 
 
 . 226 
 
 Mullet, Red, Maltre d'Hdt 
 
 si 435 
 
 Melted . . 
 
 . 176 
 
 Mutton Cutlets 
 
 543 
 
 Montpellier 
 
 . 163 
 
 Bread-crumbed . 
 
 544 
 
 Noir or Brown . 
 
 164 
 
 Maintenon . 
 
 542 
 
 Pirigord . 
 
 . 167 
 
 Pig's Feet Genoise . 
 
 368 
 
 Ravigote . 
 
 . 162 
 
 St. Menehould . 
 
 367 
 
 Sauce 
 
 • 157 
 
 Pigeons, Crapandine . 
 
 655 
 
 for Asparagus . . 
 
 . 216 
 
 Pork Cutlets, Gherkin Sauc 
 
 e 558 
 
 Truffle 
 
 . 166 
 
INDEX. 
 
 443 
 
 CABBAGE, Boiled . 
 
 No. 
 . 728 
 
 Braized for Garnish . 
 
 • 29.S 
 
 Country Style . 
 
 • 729 
 
 Soup ... 
 
 34 
 
 Hilauaise . 
 
 35 
 
 and Eiue Soup . 
 
 103 
 
 Ked, Stewed . 
 
 296 
 
 Stuffed 
 
 730 
 
 Cabinet Pudding 
 
 818 
 
 Cake, Baba . 
 
 801 
 
 Genoese . 
 
 802 
 
 Ginger 
 
 t;o3 
 
 Miideleines 
 
 Eos 
 
 Parisian 
 
 795 
 
 Plain Seed 
 
 -798 
 
 Plum. 
 
 797 
 
 Pound 
 
 799 
 
 Bice .... 
 
 806 
 
 Savarin 
 
 Soo 
 
 Savoy 
 
 796 
 
 Spanish 
 
 i!04 
 
 Victoria . 
 
 794 
 
 Calf's Brains, Fried Citizen 
 
 
 Style . 
 
 330 
 
 and Liver . 
 
 ■329 
 
 Italieiine . 
 
 328 
 
 Milanaise . 
 
 331 
 
 Head, Devilled Sauce 
 
 3SS 
 
 Italian Sauce 
 
 3SS 
 
 Oil and Vinegar . 
 
 3SS 
 
 Eavigote Sauce . 
 
 355 
 
 Sharp Sauce 
 
 355 
 
 Tomato Sauce . 
 
 3SS 
 
 Liver, Braized, Genoise 
 
 373 
 
 Citizen Style 
 
 374 
 
 Forcemeat . 
 
 274 
 
 Fried Milanaise . 
 
 331 
 
 Palermo 
 
 333 
 
 Veuitienne . 
 
 375 
 
 Feet, Italian Sauce . 
 
 356 
 
 Foot Jelly, Plain . 
 
 227 
 
 Tail Soup, Indienne . 
 
 133 
 
 Canapes, Anchovy . 
 
 788 
 
 Smoked Herring 
 
 789 
 
 Capon Boiled with Rice . 
 
 630 
 
 ■with Tarragon . 
 
 631 
 
 Braized Milanaise 
 
 632 
 
 Citizen Style ' . 
 
 629 
 
 Lucullua . . . . 
 
 628 
 
 Napolitaine 
 
 626 
 
 Pitoontaise 
 
 627 
 
 Caper Sauce . . . . 
 
 193 
 
 Caramel, or Burnt Sugar 
 
 
 page 12 
 
 
 Carp Bourgignone . 
 
 494 
 
 No. 
 496 
 
 495 
 
 498 
 497 
 743 
 742 
 283 
 41 
 744 
 438 
 730 
 731 
 732 
 232 
 
 735 
 734 
 733 
 236 
 
 Carp, Fried 
 Perigueux . 
 Bemarks on, page 231 
 Sicilienne .... 
 Stewed, English Style 
 Carrots, Housewife Style 
 
 Italienne .... 
 New, for Garnish 
 
 Soup . 
 Pur^e of . . . 236, 
 Cases, Ked Mullet in 
 duliflowers, Bechamel . 
 Boiled, JButter Sauce 
 Fried . 
 for Garnish 
 Genoise 
 au Gratin . 
 Parmesau Cheese 
 Puree of . 
 Caviare, see Bemarks on Hors- 
 d'oeuvres, page 145 
 Celery, with Beef-Marrow . 745 
 Gratin .... 746 
 Gravy . . .747 
 
 for Garnish . . . 282 
 Pur^e of . . . 236 
 
 Champagne Biscuits . 809 
 
 .Chautilly Soup . . 49 
 
 Charlotte, Apple . . 850 
 
 Pears . . . 851 
 
 Chate&ubriand Steak . . 512 
 Cheek, Ox, Italienne . . 359 
 Ox, with Pur^e of Vege- . 
 
 tables . . . 358 
 
 Cheese, Omelet . . . 260 
 
 Another . . . 261 
 
 SoufBi ... 837 
 
 Cherries, Stewed . . 847 
 
 Cherry Water, Iced . . . 876 
 
 Chesnuts for Garnish . . 278 
 
 Pudding .... 819 
 
 Pur6e . , . . , 237 
 
 and Bice Soup . . 124 
 
 Chicken Boiled with Bice . 619 
 
 Back-salt , . . 6i3 
 
 Tarragon . . 617 
 
 Boudins Bichelieu . . 623 
 
 Broth or ConsommS . . 7 
 
 Curry of . . . 5io 
 
 Devilled Sauce . . 616 
 
 Essence of . . . . 173 
 
 Forcemeat for Garnish . 271 
 
 Another . . . ' 272 
 
 Fritot Italienne . . 614 
 
 Milanaise . , . 615 
 
444 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 
 No. 
 
 
 No. 
 
 Chicken, Galantine of 
 
 . 706 
 
 Conger Eels, Roast . 
 
 46S 
 
 Gravy 
 
 . 18 
 
 Oonsomm^ or Broth 
 
 2 
 
 Liver. 
 
 . 301 
 
 of Chicken 
 
 7 
 
 Mayonnaise Sauce 
 
 . . 621 
 
 for Children or Con- 
 
 
 Fancakies of 
 
 . . 62s 
 
 valescents . 
 
 137 
 
 Pie . 
 
 . 693 
 
 with Poached Eggs Sty- 
 
 
 Pur^e Soup 
 
 . . 64 
 
 rienne 
 
 «3I 
 
 Quenelles Toulouse 
 
 . 624 
 
 Another , . 
 
 132 
 
 Soup . 
 
 ■ 72 
 
 Coquilles i la Chasseur . 
 
 324 
 
 Rissoles of . 
 
 • ' 32s 
 
 Cod 
 
 410 
 
 Roast 
 
 , 620 
 
 Turbot . . . . 
 
 402 
 
 Stewed Africaiue 
 
 . 609 
 
 Court Bouillon for Fish . 
 
 392 
 
 Cliasseur . 
 
 . 606 
 
 Crabs Boiled . , , . 
 
 477 
 
 Housewife Style 
 
 . 605 
 
 Crayfish, Bisque of . 
 
 123 
 
 Marengo 
 
 . 603 
 
 Broth . . . . 
 
 29 
 
 Mushrooms 
 
 . 604 
 
 Butter . . . . 
 
 169 
 
 Mussels 
 
 . 611 
 
 Crawfish, Boiled 
 
 477 
 
 Piemontaise 
 
 . . 613 
 
 Cream Chocolate Bavarois 
 
 864 
 
 Provenjale . 
 
 . 608 
 
 Coffee Bavarois 
 
 862 
 
 with Risotto 
 
 . 602 
 
 Romaine Bavarois . 
 
 866 
 
 Sicilienne . 
 
 . 6t2 
 
 Strawberry Bavarois . 
 
 '86s 
 
 Sandwiches 
 
 . 786 
 
 Vanilla Bavarois 
 
 S63 
 
 Tartare Sauce . 
 
 . 622 
 
 Ice, Chocolate . 
 
 871 
 
 Chocolate Bavarois Crean 
 
 1 . 864 
 
 'Coffee 
 
 872 
 
 Cream Ice - 
 
 . 871 
 
 CuiTants . 
 
 873 
 
 Custard 
 
 . 8S3 
 
 Lemon 
 
 871 
 
 SoufSiS 
 
 ■ 833 
 
 Raspberry . 
 
 873 
 
 Civet of Hare . 
 
 • 59° 
 
 Strawberry 
 
 873 
 
 Clarified Butter 
 
 . 160 
 
 Vanilla 
 
 871 
 
 Syrup for Jellies am 
 
 Ices 856 
 
 Crepinettes with Mashed Pota- 
 
 
 Clarifying Broth 
 
 2 
 
 toes. 
 
 378 
 
 Clermont Soup 
 
 ■ 47 
 
 Rice .... 
 
 378 
 
 Cooks-Combs for Garnish 
 
 • 303 
 
 Tomato Sauce . 
 
 378 
 
 Cock a Leekie Soup . 
 
 • 135 
 
 Creey Soup .... 
 
 24 
 
 Cod k la Crgme Gratin 
 
 • 409- 
 
 Gromeskis k la Russe 
 
 327 
 
 Coquilles of 
 
 . 410 
 
 Croquets of Cod 
 
 410 
 
 Croquets . 
 
 . 410 
 
 Lobster 
 
 326 
 
 Genoise 
 
 . 408 
 
 Potatoes . 
 
 720 
 
 Indienne . 
 
 • 407 
 
 Salmon 
 
 39S 
 
 Mayonnaise 
 
 . 410 
 
 Turbot 
 
 402 
 
 Oyster Sauce . 
 
 • 4°S 
 
 Croustade k la Toulouse . 
 
 323 
 
 Remarks on, page I2f 
 
 i 
 
 Crofttons for Soup and Garnish 
 
 24 
 
 Stuffed and Baked . 
 
 . 406 
 
 Cucumber for Garnish 
 
 285 
 
 Salt, Black Butter 
 
 . 411 
 
 Sauce .... 
 
 203 
 
 F.iiK Sauce . 
 
 • 4" 
 
 Currant Iced Cream 
 
 873 
 
 -Maltre d'H6tel 
 
 411 
 
 Jelly 
 
 879 
 
 Melted Butter 
 
 . • 411 
 
 Sauce 
 
 215 
 
 Coffee, Buvarois Crenm 
 
 .. 862 
 
 Curry or Cayenne Butter 
 
 168 
 
 Cieam, Iced 
 
 . 872 
 
 Curry of Chicken 
 
 610 
 
 Custard 
 
 . 852 
 
 Rabbit 
 
 598 
 
 Souffle 
 
 ■ 83s 
 
 Prawns for Garnish . 
 
 30.S 
 
 Collared Eels . 
 
 ■ 470 
 
 Custards, Chocolate 
 
 8S3 
 
 Cond^ Soup 
 
 • 23 
 
 Coffee 
 
 852 
 
 Conger Eels, Maltre d'H6 
 
 bel . 464 
 
 Plain 
 
 840 
 
 Remarks on, page 213 
 
 
 Cutlets, Boar, English Style . 
 
 574 
 

 INDEX, 
 
 Cutlets, Espagnole . 
 
 No. 
 
 S7S 
 
 Eels, Conger, Remarks on, page 
 
 Sarde , 
 
 573 
 
 213 
 
 Lamb. 
 
 -537 
 
 Fresh-water, Bemarks on, 
 
 Mutton, Asparagus-points 
 
 537 
 
 page 214 
 
 Bread-crumbs 
 
 544 
 
 Boast .... 
 
 with Cucumber . 
 
 537 
 
 Stewed, English Style 
 
 Frenoli Beans 
 
 537 
 
 Eggs & I'Aurore 
 
 Italienne . 
 
 537 
 
 Boiled . . . 
 
 Jardinifere . 
 
 541 
 
 BrouillSs with Asparagus 
 
 Mac^doine . 
 
 537 
 
 points . . " . 
 
 Maintenon . 
 
 542 
 
 with Brown Butter . 
 
 Maltre d'H6tel . 
 
 543 
 
 Cream and Butter 
 
 Milanaise , 
 
 538 
 
 Dauphine .... 
 
 Pompadour 
 
 540 
 
 Fried 
 
 Puree of Cliesnuts 
 
 537 
 
 Gratin .... 
 
 Soubise 
 
 539 
 
 auPlat . . . . 
 
 Stewed Mushrooms . 
 
 537 
 
 with Tomatoes . 
 
 Peas . 
 
 537 
 
 Poached .... 
 
 Pigeons Maoedoine . 
 
 654 
 
 Bemarks on, page iiz 
 
 Pork, Gherldn Sauce 
 
 558 
 
 with Sauce 
 
 Indienne . 
 
 562 
 
 Sauce .... 
 
 Milanaise . 
 
 559 
 
 Snow with Custard . 
 
 with Purfe of Chesnut. 
 
 561 
 
 Soup 
 
 Stuffing 
 
 560 
 
 Poached, Styrienne . 
 
 Eoebuck Chasseur . 
 
 577 
 
 Another 
 
 Surprise 
 
 578 
 
 Endive Pur^e for Garnish 
 
 Salmon Indienne 
 
 394 
 
 Salad 
 
 Teal Broiled Plain . 
 
 531 
 
 Soup 
 
 Tomato Sauce . 
 
 532 
 
 Epigrammes of Lamb witli 
 
 and Ham . 
 
 528 
 
 Asparagus-points , 
 
 Italienne . 
 
 530 
 
 Cucumber . 
 
 Milanaise . 
 
 529 ■ 
 
 French Beans 
 
 Papillote . 
 
 531 
 
 Green Peas . 
 
 Purfe of Sorrel . 
 
 527 
 
 Italian Style 
 
 Cygnet, Boast . 
 
 559 
 
 Mac^doine . 
 Proven^ale . 
 
 DABS, Fried . . . 
 Dawn Soup 
 Devilled Sauce . 
 
 463 
 
 77 
 
 201 
 
 Espagnole Sauce 
 
 Another 
 Essence of Anchovies 
 
 Chicken . 
 
 Fish .... 
 
 GfiinB t . ■ • 
 
 Duck Braized with Cabbage 
 
 637 
 
 Green Peas 
 
 634 
 
 Olives . 
 
 636 
 
 Mushrooms . 
 
 Boast ' . . . . 
 
 638 
 
 Tniffipq 
 
 Stewed, Green Peas . 
 
 633 
 
 ,L X U kAJ.\Ji3 W 4 ' 
 
 Turnips 
 "WUd, Boast . 
 Salmis of . 
 
 63s 
 683 
 684 
 
 FAMILYStock . . 
 Feet, Calf's, with Italian Sauce 
 Pig's, k la Genoise . 
 * ■ & la Ste. Menehould . 
 
 TITIIiSj-Collared . 
 
 ' 470 
 
 Sheep's, with Oil and 
 
 Fillets of Fried, Tnrtarf 
 
 
 Vinegar 
 
 Sauce . 
 
 469 
 
 Fennel Sauce .... 
 
 Matelotte . 
 
 467 
 
 Fillets of Beef Champignons . 
 
 Maltre d'H&tel . 
 
 464 
 
 Green Peas 
 
 Milanaise . 
 
 468 
 
 Indian Style 
 
 44S 
 
446 
 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 
 
 No. 
 
 
 No. 
 
 Fillets of Beet Jardiniere 
 
 S09 
 
 Fresh Meat, Boiled . 
 
 379 
 
 Jerusalem Artichokes 
 
 S" 
 
 Fricassee of Chicken 
 
 607 
 
 Mashed Potatoes 
 
 S'l, 
 
 Fritters, Apple 
 
 812 
 
 Mignons with Cham- 
 
 
 Beignets . 
 
 81S 
 
 pignons 
 
 513 
 
 Orange 
 
 814 
 
 Olives. 
 
 Sio 
 
 Fritters, Eine-apple 
 
 813 
 
 Purfe of Celery 
 Chateaubriand . 
 
 5" 
 
 Frittot of Chicken Italienne 
 
 614 
 
 S12 
 
 Milanaise . 
 
 615- 
 
 Eels, Fried, Tartaie 
 
 
 Frog Broth 
 
 27 
 
 Sauce 
 
 469 ; 
 
 Pur^e of . 
 
 28 
 
 Haddock, Citizen Style 
 
 457 
 
 Fruit, Stewed Appk» 
 
 841 
 
 Hare Larded, Venison 
 
 
 Apricots - . 
 
 846 
 
 Sauce . . . 
 
 592 
 
 Cherries 
 
 847 
 
 Mackerel Venitienne , 
 
 422 
 
 French Dried Plums 
 
 849 
 
 Perch Italienne . 
 
 491 
 
 and Rii e 
 
 848 
 
 Romaine . 
 
 492 
 
 Greengages . 
 
 844 
 
 "Venitienne . 
 
 490 
 
 Mirabelle Plums 
 
 84s 
 
 Soles Livournaise 
 
 430 
 
 Pears . 
 
 843 
 
 Tenitienne . 
 
 432 
 
 Pudding, Iced . 
 
 874 
 
 Turbot Indienne 
 
 399 
 
 Frying, Remarlts on; page 142 
 
 
 Italienne 
 
 ■400 
 
 
 
 Veal, or Cusliiou uf . 
 
 525 
 
 
 
 Whiting, Citizen Style 
 
 445 
 
 GALANTINE of Chicken 
 
 706 
 
 Italienne 
 
 443 
 
 Turkey . . . 
 
 706 
 
 Venitienne 
 
 
 444 
 
 Veal and Ham 
 
 705 
 
 Financifere Sauce 
 
 
 187 
 
 Game Broth Chasseur 
 
 10 
 
 Fine Herbs 
 
 
 195 
 
 Another 
 
 II 
 
 Fish Broth 
 
 
 25 
 
 Essence 
 
 172 
 
 Another 
 
 
 26 
 
 Forcemeat of 
 
 273 
 
 Essence of . 
 
 
 17s 
 
 Gravy 
 
 19 
 
 Forcemeat of Kaw 
 
 
 275 
 
 Pie in Mould . 
 
 699 
 
 Another 
 
 
 276 
 
 Purie Soup 
 
 64 
 
 Gravy 
 
 
 20 
 
 Quenelles of 
 
 72 
 
 Omelet 
 
 
 257 
 
 Remarks on, page 329 
 
 
 Remarks on, i)age 18 
 
 
 
 Garnishes — 
 
 
 Flounders 
 
 
 463 
 
 Asparagus-points 
 
 2S7 
 
 Foot, Calf's, Jelly; Plain 
 
 
 227 
 
 Broad Beatis 
 
 289 
 
 Forcemeat, Calf's Liver 
 
 
 274 
 
 Brussels Sprouts 
 
 291 
 
 Chicken . 
 
 
 271 
 
 Cabbage Braized 
 
 295 
 
 Another 
 
 
 272 
 
 Red Stewed 
 
 296 
 
 Fish, Raw . 
 
 
 275 
 
 Carrots, New . 
 
 283 
 
 Another 
 
 
 276 
 
 Cauliflowers 
 
 292 
 
 Game 
 
 
 273 
 
 Celery 
 
 28a 
 
 Lobster 
 
 
 277 
 
 Cliesnuts . 
 
 278 
 
 Veal . 
 
 
 270 
 
 Chicken Liver 
 
 304 
 
 Another 
 
 
 270a 
 
 Cocks-combs 
 
 303 
 
 Fowl, Guinea, Housewife 
 
 Style 
 
 657 
 
 Cucumber . 
 
 285 
 
 Roast 
 
 
 658 
 
 French Beans . 
 
 290 
 
 Pea, Roast 
 
 
 660 
 
 Haricot Beans, "Wliite 
 
 294 
 
 Freeze Ices, How to . 
 
 
 868 
 
 Jerusalem Artichokes 
 
 293 
 
 French Beans . 
 
 
 770 
 
 Lettuces . 
 
 279 
 
 for Garnish 
 
 
 290 
 
 Mac^doine Bechamel 
 
 281 
 
 MaltreJ'Hotel 
 
 
 772 
 
 Mushrooms 
 
 301 
 
 Sautgs 
 
 
 771 
 
 with Wine . 
 
 302 
 
 Fresh Dried Pltjms, Stew 
 
 ed .' 
 
 849 
 
 Mussels 
 
 306 
 
INDEX. 
 
 447 
 
 No. 
 
 Garnishes— 
 
 
 Gravy, Vegetable . 
 
 21 
 
 Onions, Button, Glazed 
 
 
 Greengages, Stewed . 
 
 844 
 
 for Matelotto 
 
 288 
 
 Green Peas Anglaiso 
 
 767 
 
 Glazed 
 
 280 
 
 Fran5aise . 
 
 769 
 
 Peas, Stewed . 
 
 286 
 
 Stewed with Ha^ii 
 
 768 
 
 Prawns with Curry . 
 
 305 
 
 Pea Pur^e .... 
 
 232 
 
 -B^marks on, in general, and 
 
 
 Pur4e Soup 
 
 50 
 
 on Truffles and Mush- 
 
 
 Soup .... 
 
 40 
 
 rooms in particular. 
 
 
 Grouse, Boast .... 
 
 672 
 
 page 128 
 
 
 Guinea-Fowl, Housewife Style 
 
 6S7 
 
 Sauerkraut 
 
 297 
 
 Boast .... 
 
 658 
 
 French 
 
 298 
 
 Gurnard Genoise 
 
 446 
 
 Truffles in Champagne 
 
 300 
 
 Indienne . 
 
 447 
 
 In Glaze 
 
 299 
 
 
 
 in Madeira . 
 
 300 
 
 
 
 in Sherry . 
 
 300 
 
 HADDOCK, Fresh, Broiled 
 
 
 Turnips .... 
 
 284 
 
 Maltre d'H5tel . 
 
 4S3 
 
 Genoese Cake .... 
 
 802 
 
 Egg Sauce .... 
 
 4S2 
 
 Genoise Sauce .... 
 
 207 
 
 Fillets of, Citizen St^ le . 
 
 457 
 
 German Quenelles Soup . 
 
 74 
 
 Fried, Butter Sauce . 
 
 457 
 
 Gherkin Sauce .... 
 
 192 
 
 & ritalienne 
 
 454 
 
 Giblet Omelet .... 
 
 264 
 
 au Gratin .... 
 
 455 
 
 Pie 
 
 694 
 
 Bemarks on, page 209 
 
 
 Soup 
 
 130 
 
 Smoked .... 
 
 458 
 
 Turkey, Housewife Style . 
 
 651 
 
 Citizen Style . 
 
 459 
 
 Ginger Cake .... 
 
 803 
 
 Halibut, Oyster Snuce 
 
 462 
 
 Glaze, How to Prepare . 
 
 362 
 
 Halibut, Bemarks on, page 212 
 
 
 How to Glaze Meat . 
 
 362 
 
 Ham, Baked, Housewife Style 
 
 S72 
 
 Gnochetti with Butter . 
 
 99 
 
 Boiled with Spinach . 
 
 570 
 
 Goose AUemande . 
 
 642 
 
 Braized with Stewed Peas 
 
 S7I 
 
 Navarin .... 
 
 641 
 
 Saudwiches 
 
 786 
 
 Boast . . • . 
 
 639 
 
 Hare, Back of, with Sharp 
 
 
 Stewed with Chesnuts 
 
 640 
 
 Italian Sauce 
 
 593 
 
 Tomatoes . 
 
 643 
 
 Civet of . . . . 
 
 590 
 
 Gooseberry Sauce . 
 
 180 
 
 Fillets of. Larded, Venison 
 
 
 Giatin Boiled Betf . 
 
 382 
 
 Sauce .... 
 
 592 
 
 Cauliflowers 
 
 734 
 
 Jugged 
 
 589 
 
 Celery .... 
 
 746 
 
 Potted .... 
 
 707 
 
 Cod k la Cv&uw . 
 
 409 
 
 Bemarks on, page 290 
 
 
 Eggs 
 
 250 
 
 Koast .... 
 
 594 
 
 Haddock .... 
 
 453 
 
 Sauce .... 
 
 200 
 
 Macaroni .... 
 
 92 
 
 Soup, English Style . 
 
 68 
 
 Mushrooms 
 
 781 
 
 k la Susinoise 
 
 67 
 
 Perch 
 
 4B9 
 
 Haricot Beans, Garnish of 
 
 
 Potatoes .... 
 
 716 
 
 White. . . . 
 
 294 
 
 Bice 
 
 120 
 
 Haricot of Mutton . 
 
 549 
 
 Smelts .... 
 
 471 
 
 Pur^e Soup of . 
 
 53 
 
 Soles 
 
 428 
 
 Dried .... 
 
 773 
 
 Sprats .... 
 
 47S 
 
 Dried, Housewife Style . 
 
 774 
 
 Sturgeon .... 
 
 41S 
 
 Hashed Venison 
 
 588 
 
 Turbot Cream . 
 
 401 
 
 Herrings, Fresh, Mustard Sauce 
 
 460 
 
 Glavy, Chicken 
 
 18 
 
 Fried with Plain Butter . 
 
 461 
 
 Fish ..... 
 
 20 
 
 Bemarks on, page 212 
 
 
 Game .... 
 
 19 
 
 Shipked . . . . 
 HoUandaise Sauce . 
 
 789 
 
 Soup , . . . , 
 
 S 
 
 184 
 
448 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Hors d'CEuvres, or Side Dishes, 
 Bemai'ks on, page 145 
 
 Horse-radish Butter 
 
 . i6s 
 
 Sauce 
 
 . 191 
 
 Cold . 
 
 . 224 
 
 How to Glaze Meat . 
 
 . 362 
 
 How to Make Sausages 
 
 . 376 
 
 How to Prepare Glaze 
 
 -. 362 
 
 ICED Chocolate Cream 
 
 , . 871 
 
 Coffee Cream . 
 
 . 872 
 
 Currant Cream . 
 
 • 873 
 
 Fruit Pudding . 
 
 • 874 
 
 Lemon Cream . 
 
 . 871 
 
 Water 
 
 . 869 
 
 Nesselrode Pudding 
 
 ■ 87s 
 
 Raspberry Cream 
 
 . 873 
 
 Strawberry Cream 
 
 • 873 
 
 Vanilla . 
 
 . 871 
 
 Ices, Cherry Water . 
 
 . 870 
 
 Indian Sauce . 
 
 . 18S 
 
 Italian Sauce . 
 
 . 204 
 
 Sharp Sauce 
 
 . 20s 
 
 JAU, Apricot 
 
 . 877 
 
 Jellies, Lemon . 
 
 • 857 
 
 Madeira . 
 
 . 860 
 
 Orange 
 
 • 859 
 
 Strawberry 
 
 . 858 
 
 Jelly, Preserved Apple 
 
 . 876 
 
 Currant 
 
 . 879 
 
 Quince 
 
 . 878 
 
 Calf's Foot, Plain 
 
 . 227 
 
 Simple . , 
 
 . ISO 
 
 Jerusalem Artichokes, ] 
 
 Sutter 
 
 Sauce . 
 
 • 7SI 
 
 Artichokes, Garnish 
 
 of . 293 
 
 Italian 
 
 . 7S2 
 
 Pickled . 
 
 • 7S2 
 
 Purge of . 
 
 • 239 
 
 John Dory 
 
 • 404 
 
 Jugged Hare . 
 
 • S89 
 
 Venison 
 
 • 584 
 
 Julienne Soup . 
 
 • 14 
 
 KETCHUP and E 
 
 utter 
 
 Sance 
 
 • 177 
 
 Kid, Braized . 
 
 ■ SS7 
 
 Kidney, Beef, Milanaise 
 
 • 504 
 
 Napolitaine 
 
 • SOS 
 
 Pi^montaise 
 
 • 3SO 
 
 Sheep's, Chasseur . 
 
 • 347 
 
 Grilled . . 
 
 • 34S 
 
 Stewed with 
 
 Fine 
 
 Herbs . 
 
 ■ ?46 
 
 No. 
 
 Kidneys, Veal, Broiled h, I'ln- 
 
 
 dienne . 
 
 349" 
 
 Stewed k la Bomaine . 
 
 348- 
 
 Kitchen Utensils, List of, page 
 
 
 432 
 
 
 LAMB Chops 
 
 54S 
 
 Cutlets .... 
 
 537 
 
 Epigrammes of, with 
 
 
 Asparagus-points 
 
 SS3 
 
 with-Cucumber . 
 
 SS3 
 
 French Beans 
 
 SS3 
 
 Green Peas . 
 
 SS3 
 
 Italian Style . 
 
 454 
 
 Mao^doine '. . . 
 
 SS3 
 
 k la Proven^ale " . 
 
 SSS 
 
 Quarter of, Roast 
 
 SS^ 
 
 Remarks on Roast, page 269 
 
 
 Lamprey Bordelaise 
 
 450 
 
 Citizen Style . 
 
 4SI 
 
 Matelotte of . 
 
 449 
 
 Remarks on, page 207 
 
 
 Larks, Housewife Style . 
 
 681 
 
 Pie 
 
 696 
 
 Potted .... 
 
 707 
 
 Roast .... 
 
 681 
 
 Leek Soup .... 
 
 38 
 
 Lemon Cream Ice . 
 
 871 
 
 JeUy 
 
 857 
 
 Water .... 
 
 869 
 
 Lentils, Housewife Style 
 
 778 
 
 Maltre d'Hdtel . 
 
 779 
 
 Purge of . . . . 
 
 234 
 
 Purge Soup of . 
 
 52 
 
 Lettuce, Garnish of . 
 
 279 
 
 Soup of . 
 
 42 
 
 Stuffed Soup of 
 
 43 
 
 Leveret h, la Chasseur 
 
 591 
 
 List of Utensils required for a 
 
 
 Family of Six Persons, 
 
 
 page 432 
 
 
 Lombardo Soup 
 
 58 
 
 Lobster Boiled .... 
 
 477 
 
 a I'Americaine . 
 
 478 
 
 Forcemeat of . . 
 
 277 
 
 Remarks on, page 221 
 
 
 Sauce .... 
 
 212 
 
 Loin of Mutton, Roast . 
 
 552 
 
 Pork, Roast 
 
 S6S 
 
 MACARONI Cardinale . 
 
 86 
 
 Cheese with 
 
 88 
 
 Citizen Style . 
 
 90 
 
 Country Style . 
 
 93 
 
 Dominicaine Ma 
 
 87 
 
INDEX. 
 
 449 
 
 
 No. 
 
 
 Blacaroni, Gratin au 
 
 Q2 
 
 Mullets, Itallenne . 
 
 How to Cook, see Remarks 
 
 Maltre d'H6tel . 
 
 on, page 49 
 
 
 Tomato Sauce 
 
 Italian Style 
 
 89 
 
 Red, k la Genoise 
 
 Milanaise a la . 
 
 94 
 
 in Cases 
 
 Monglas k la . 
 
 85 
 
 Italienne . 
 
 Napolitaine k, la 
 
 91 
 
 Maltre d'Hotel . 
 
 Palermo i la . 
 
 83 
 
 Remarks on Red and Grey, 
 
 Plain. 
 
 81 
 
 page 202 
 
 Keine ^ la , 
 
 84 
 
 Mushrooms Bordelaise . 
 
 Eeraarka on, and Pastt 
 
 
 Essence of . 
 
 of allDesciiptiona, and 
 
 Gratin .... 
 
 How to Cook it, page 49 
 
 Milanaise .... 
 
 Sarde i la . 
 
 82 
 
 Remarks on, page 381 
 
 Mac^doine Bechamel, Garnish 
 
 f 281 
 
 Sauce .... 
 
 Mackerel Boiled 
 
 419 
 
 Garnish of . 
 
 Broiled Mattre d'Hdtel 
 
 420 
 
 with "Wine, Garnish of 
 
 Fillets of, Venitienne 
 
 422 
 
 Mussels, Garnish of . 
 
 Genoise 
 
 421 
 
 Mustard Sauce .... 
 
 Remarks on, page 195 
 
 
 Mutton, Boiled 
 
 Stewed 
 
 423 
 
 Breast Broiled . 
 
 Madeira Jelly . 
 
 860 
 
 Housewife Style 
 
 Madeleine Cake 
 
 80s 
 
 Chops .... 
 
 Maltre d'Hotel Butter . 
 
 226 
 
 Cutlets, with Asparagus- 
 
 Sauce . 
 
 IS9 
 
 points . 
 
 Manor-House Soup . 
 
 39 
 
 with Bread-crumbs . 
 
 Marrow, Vegetable, Butter 
 
 Cucumber . 
 
 Sauce . 
 
 748 
 
 French Beans 
 
 Housewife Style . 
 
 749 
 
 Italienne 
 
 Italieune . 
 
 75° 
 
 Jardinifere . 
 
 Mashed Potatoes 
 
 709 
 
 Macedoine . 
 
 Mayonnaise Sauce . . 21 
 
 8, 219 
 
 Maintenon . 
 
 Eavigote Sauce 
 
 220 
 
 Maltre d'H6tel . 
 
 Meat, Fresh, Boiled 
 
 379 
 
 Milanaise . 
 
 Boiled, Remarks on, page 9 
 
 Pompadour 
 
 Melted Butter Sauce 
 
 176 
 
 with Pur^e of Ches- 
 
 Meringues 
 
 867 
 
 nuts 
 
 with Jelly 
 
 867 
 
 Soubise 
 
 Whipped Cream 
 
 867 
 
 with Stewed Mush- 
 
 Mince-Meat 
 
 854 
 
 rooms . 
 
 Pies .... 
 
 8SS 
 
 with Stewed Peas 
 
 Minced Beef . 
 
 384 
 
 Haricot of . 
 
 Mutton 
 
 548 
 
 Leg of, Boiled . 
 
 Veal with Poached Eggs 
 
 387 
 
 Braized Bretonne 
 
 Minestrone 
 
 106 
 
 Roast . 
 
 Mint Sauce 
 
 225 
 
 Loin of Roast . 
 
 Mirabelle Plums, Stewed 
 
 • 845 
 
 Minced . . . . 
 
 Mock Turtle Soup . 
 
 • 6S 
 
 Pie 
 
 Mode of Preparing Sweet 
 
 
 Remarks on, page 259 
 
 Bread, Brains, Liver, and 
 
 Saddle of, Roast 
 
 Scollops of Veal, page 150 
 
 Shoulder of . . . 
 
 Modena Soup . 
 
 • 54 
 
 
 Montpellier Butter . 
 
 . 163 
 
 NAPOLITAINE Sauce . 
 
 Mullets, Grey, Genoise Sauce 
 
 ■ 439 
 
 Navarin Soup . . . . 
 
 Holiandaise Sauce 
 
 • 439 
 
 New Carrots Soup . 
 
 2 F 
 
45° 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 
 No. 
 
 
 No. 
 
 New Carrots, Garnish of 
 
 . 283 
 
 Panada, B,ice . . . ■ 
 
 266 
 
 Noir or Brown Butter 
 
 . 164 
 
 Semolina .... 
 
 267 
 
 
 
 Pancakes 
 
 830 
 
 OBSERVATION with re- 
 
 Chicken .... 
 
 63S 
 
 spect to French Words in 
 
 with Jam . . . . 
 
 831 
 
 Bills of Fare, page 141 
 
 Pap Soup A, la Eeiiie 
 
 139 
 
 jDmelet with Artichokes . 
 
 ■ 259 
 
 Simple . . 
 
 138 
 
 Asparagus-points 
 
 . 264 
 
 Parisian Cake .... 
 
 79S 
 
 Brains 
 
 . 264 
 
 Partridges, Bondins of ,. . 
 
 671 
 
 Cheese 
 
 . 260 
 
 Braized St la Perignenx ' . 
 
 669 
 
 Another 
 
 . 261 
 
 Pie . . . . . 
 
 697 
 
 Fish . 
 
 • 2S7 
 
 Quenelles of . . . 
 
 671 
 
 Giblets 
 
 . 264 
 
 Boast .... 
 
 670 
 
 Ham or Bacon 
 
 • 254 
 
 Salniis of . 
 
 667 
 
 Jam . 
 
 . 839 
 
 Stewed with Cabbage 
 
 668 
 
 Kidneys 
 
 . 258^ 
 
 "Paste, Almond. 
 
 793 
 
 Mushrooms 
 
 . 264 
 
 Batter for Frying . 
 
 317 
 
 Onion . 
 
 • 2SS 
 
 for Brioche 
 
 792 
 
 Oysters 
 
 . 262 
 
 Italian with Broth or Milk . 
 
 147 
 
 Parsley 
 
 ■ 253 
 
 Short, for Raised Pies 
 
 790 
 
 Peas . 
 
 . 264 
 
 , .^hort, for Tarts . ■ . 
 
 791 
 
 Fiemontaise 
 
 . 263 
 
 for Sponge and Biscuits . 
 
 807 
 
 with Kum . 
 
 . 838 
 
 Ordinary, for Tagliatelli . 
 
 9S 
 
 Sorrel 
 
 . 264 
 
 and Sweet Dishes, Re- 
 
 
 Spinach 
 
 . 264 
 
 marks on, page 387 
 
 
 Souffl6e 
 
 . 832 
 
 of all Description, Remarks 
 
 
 with Tomatoes . 
 
 . 256 
 
 on, and How to Cook 
 
 
 Truffles 
 
 . 264 
 
 it, page 49 
 
 
 Onions, Butter, Glazed for 
 
 Patties, Hot .... 
 
 318 
 
 Matelotte 
 
 . 283 
 
 Pea-Fowl, Roast 
 
 660 
 
 Glazed 
 
 . 280 
 
 Pea, Green, Soup . 
 
 40 
 
 Remarks on, page 38a 
 
 Pearl-Barley .... 
 
 125 
 
 Sauce 
 
 , 202 
 
 Pears, Charlotte of . 
 
 851 
 
 Soup k la Lyonnaiae 
 
 . 78 
 
 Stewed .... 
 
 842 
 
 Maigre 
 
 • 79 
 
 Peas, Dry, Purfe of 
 
 233 
 
 Stewed . 
 
 ■ 784 
 
 Green, Pur6e of 
 
 232 
 
 , Orange Fritters 
 
 . 814 
 
 & i'Anglaise . i. 
 
 767 
 
 JeUy. .. 
 
 . 8sg 
 
 k la Fran^aise . 
 
 769 
 
 Ox-Brain, Montpellier Butter . 365 
 
 Stewed, for Garnishes 
 
 286 
 
 Napolitaine 
 
 • 364 
 
 Stewed with Ham ; 
 
 768 
 
 Ox-Cheek Italienne .. 
 
 . qi^Q 
 
 Perch, Baked, Angler Style : 
 
 493 
 
 with Pur^e of "Vegetables . js8 
 
 Fillets of, 8l ritalienne ; 
 
 491 
 
 Ox-Palate, Fried . 
 
 ■ 3S7 
 
 d la Romaine 
 
 492 
 
 Ox-Tail Soup . 
 
 . 66 
 
 k la Venitienne . 
 
 490 
 
 Ox-Tongue, Fresh, 
 
 with 
 
 Fried 
 
 487 
 
 Gherkin Sau 
 
 oe . 366 
 
 Gardener Style . 
 
 488 
 
 Pickled, Madeira 
 
 Sauce 361 
 
 au Gratin .... 
 
 489 
 
 Sandwiches 
 
 . 786 
 
 Remarks on, page 229 
 
 
 . Oysters, Bouoh6es of 
 
 . 322 
 
 Perigord Butter 
 
 167 
 
 Fried 
 
 • 335 
 
 Pheasant, Boudins of 
 
 666 
 
 Salpicon of 
 
 • 313 
 
 Housewife Style 
 
 662 
 
 Oyster Sauce . 
 
 . 186 
 
 k la Milanaise -i 
 
 664 
 
 Soup .... 
 
 . 127 
 
 k la Kapolitaine 
 
 663 
 
 
 
 Quenelles of . . . 
 
 666 
 
 PANADA, Bread 
 
 . 265 
 
 Roast, Stuffed with Truffles 
 
 665 
 
INDEX. 
 
 451 
 
 
 No. 
 
 
 No. 
 
 Pheasant, Salmi of . 
 
 661 
 
 Pork, Leg of Boiled . 
 
 566 
 
 Pickled Jerusalem Artichokes 
 
 75= 
 
 Eoast . 
 
 565 
 
 Salmon 
 
 39/ 
 
 Loin of Eoast . 
 
 564 
 
 Ox-Tongue, Madeira Sauc 
 
 3 361 
 
 Neck of Eoast . 
 
 563 
 
 ,*ie, Beef-Steak and Kidney 
 
 688 
 
 Pie in Mould 
 
 700 
 
 and Oyster . 
 
 689 
 
 Remarks oa, page 271 
 
 
 Black Game 
 
 697 
 
 Porter-House Steak 
 
 517 
 
 Chicken 
 
 693 
 
 Potatoes k la Beaufort . 
 
 719 
 
 Game, in Mould 
 
 699 
 
 k li Beohiimel . 
 
 715 
 
 Giblet 
 
 694 
 
 Chipped, Fried . 
 
 723 
 
 Lark .... 
 
 696 
 
 with Cream 
 
 711 
 
 Mutton 
 
 691 
 
 Croquets . 
 
 720 
 
 Partridge . 
 
 697 
 
 k la Duchesse . 
 
 721 
 
 Pigeon 
 
 692 
 
 Fried .... 
 
 722 
 
 Pork, in Mould 
 
 700 
 
 Souffldes . 
 
 725 
 
 Eabbit 
 
 69s 
 
 au Gratin . 
 
 716 
 
 Snipe. 
 
 698 
 
 k I'ltalienne 
 
 714 
 
 Veal and Ham . 
 
 690 
 
 k la Lyonnaise . 
 
 713 
 
 Pigeon's Cutlets Macedoine 
 
 654 
 
 4 la Maltre d'Hotel . 
 
 710 
 
 4 la Crapaudine 
 
 6SS 
 
 Mashed, . 
 
 709 
 
 Pie . 
 
 692 
 
 New, \\ith Butter 
 
 727 
 
 Eoast 
 
 656 
 
 Paille 
 
 724 
 
 Stewed, with Grean Peas 
 
 652 
 
 Proven9ale 
 
 718 
 
 Mushrooms. 
 
 653 
 
 Sautees . 
 
 712 
 
 Wild. 
 
 677 
 
 Savoisienue 
 
 7T7 
 
 Pig's Ears with Purge of Lentil 
 
 370 
 
 Souffl(5of . 
 
 726 
 
 ^ la Venitienne . 
 
 369 
 
 Potato Flour Soup . 
 
 144 
 
 Liver, Braized . 
 
 371 
 
 Potato Swiss Soup . 
 
 76 
 
 Pounded . 
 
 372 
 
 Potted Hare . 
 
 707 
 
 Feet k la Genoise 
 
 368 
 
 Larks. 
 
 707 
 
 Ste. Menehould . 
 
 367 
 
 Eiil.bit 
 
 707 
 
 Sucking, k I'ltalienne 
 
 569 
 
 Poularde .... 
 
 632 
 
 i la Provenjale . 
 
 568 
 
 I'oulette Sauce . 
 
 179 
 
 Eoast 
 
 567 
 
 Poultry, Remarks on, page 29^ 
 
 
 Pike, Baked, Citizen Style 
 
 48s 
 
 Pound Cake . 
 
 799 
 
 Boiled, Italian Sharp Saucf 
 
 ' 484 
 
 Prawns with Curry, for Garnish 305 
 
 i, la LyoDnaise . 
 
 483 
 
 Preserved .Telly 
 
 876 
 
 Quenelles of 
 
 486 
 
 Pudding (Meat), Beef-steak an( 
 
 
 Eemarks on, page 225 
 
 
 Kidney 
 
 702 
 
 -Pine-apple Fritters . 
 
 813 
 
 Beef-steak and Oyster 
 
 701 
 
 Plaice and Flounders 
 
 463 
 
 Bird, Small 
 
 704 
 
 Eemarks on, pnge 213 
 
 
 Black 
 
 366 
 
 Plain Seedcake 
 
 798 
 
 Mutton 
 
 703 
 
 Plovers, Roast 
 
 677 
 
 (Sweet) Apple . 
 
 829 
 
 Plum Cake 
 
 797 
 
 Bread and Butter 
 
 822 
 
 Stewed . 
 
 843 
 
 Brown Bread and Butter 
 
 816 
 
 Polenta Piemontaiso 
 
 100 
 
 Cabinet 
 
 818 
 
 Napolitaine 
 
 lOI 
 
 Chesnut 
 
 819 
 
 Polish Soup 
 
 22 
 
 College . 
 
 823 
 
 Polonaise Soup 
 
 134 
 
 Iced Fruit . 
 
 874 
 
 Pork, Cutlets of, Gherkin Sauc 
 
 e 558 
 
 Ginger 
 
 820 
 
 k rindienne 
 
 562 
 
 Gooseberry 
 
 828 
 
 k la Milanaise 
 
 559 
 
 Lemon 
 
 821 
 
 with Puree of Chesnut 
 
 s 561 
 
 Nesselrode 
 
 875 
 
 SuifBng 
 
 . 560 
 
 Plum .... 
 
 826 
 
452 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 
 
 No. 
 
 Pudding, Rice . 
 
 . 82S 
 
 Eoly-Poly . 
 
 
 . 827 
 
 Semolina . 
 
 
 . 817 
 
 Tapioca 
 
 
 . 824 
 
 Purge of Carrota 
 
 
 . 236 
 
 Cauliflower 
 
 
 . 336 
 
 Celery . ■ 
 
 
 . 236 
 
 Chesniits 
 
 
 . 237 
 
 Endive 
 
 
 . 236 
 
 French Beans 
 
 . 236 
 
 Jerusalem Artlcli 
 
 okes 239 
 
 Lentils 
 
 • 234 
 
 Peas, Dry 
 
 
 • 233 
 
 Green 
 
 
 . 232 
 
 Potatoes 
 
 
 . 231 
 
 Sorrel . 
 
 
 ■ 238 
 
 Soubise 
 
 
 . 229 
 
 Spinach 
 
 
 . 236 
 
 Tomatoes 
 
 
 . 228 
 
 Turnips 
 
 
 • 235 
 
 Vegetables 
 
 
 . 230 
 
 Crayfish Soup.or: 
 
 Jisque 
 
 of. 
 
 . 123 
 
 Chicken Soup 
 
 . 64 
 
 Crecy Soup 
 
 . 24 
 
 Frog Soup . 
 
 . 28 
 
 Game Soup . 
 
 . 64 
 
 Green Peas Soup 
 
 • SO 
 
 Lentils Soup. 
 
 . S2 
 
 Potatoes and CJ 
 
 lervil 
 
 Sonp . 
 
 . 48 
 
 k la Keine Soup 
 
 . 61 
 
 Turnips Soup 
 
 • 37 
 
 White Haricot 
 
 Beans 
 
 Soup . 
 
 • S3 
 
 QUAIIiS k la JardiniS 
 
 •e . 679 
 
 Roast. 
 
 . 678 
 
 Quarter of Lamb, Roast 
 
 • ssf- 
 
 Quenelles of Chicken 
 
 a la 
 
 Toulouse 
 
 . 624 
 
 Partridges :. 
 
 . 671 
 
 Pheasants 
 
 
 . 666 
 
 Pikes . 
 
 
 . 486 
 
 Rabbit 
 
 
 . 624 
 
 Chicken Soup 
 
 
 72 
 
 Game Soap 
 
 
 • 72 
 
 German Sonp 
 
 
 • 74 
 
 Potato Soup 
 
 
 • 71 
 
 4 la Reine Soup 
 
 
 • 7S 
 
 Rice Soup . 
 
 
 . 69 
 
 Vegetable Soup 
 
 
 • 70 
 
 Venitienne 
 
 
 • 73 
 
 Quince Jelly , 
 
 
 . 878 
 
 BABBIT k la Chasseur 
 
 Carry of . 
 
 Napolitaine^ la 
 
 Pie. . 
 
 Potted , 
 
 Poulette & U , 
 
 Fiovenfale k la . , 
 
 Remarks on, page 294 
 
 Roast 
 
 Stewed 
 
 Broth h la Proven^ale 
 Baspberry Cream Ice 
 Ravigote Butter 
 
 Sauce 
 
 Mayonnaise Sauce 
 Ravioli k I'ltalienne 
 
 k la Romaine . 
 Red Currant Jelly Sauce 
 Red Mullets k la G^ehoise 
 in Cases 
 k I'ltalienne 
 a la Maitre d'Hdtel . 
 Refreshing Broth . » 
 Remarks on Barbel, page 234 
 
 Beef and Roasting in Gene- 
 ral, page 241 
 
 Boar, page 279 
 
 Bailed Meat, page 9 
 
 Bream, page 207 
 
 Carp, page 231 
 
 Cod, page 188 
 
 Different Sauces, Essences, 
 Melted Butter and Jel- 
 lies, page 80 
 
 Eels, Conger, page 213 
 Fresh-Watei', page 214 
 
 Eggs, page 112 
 
 Fish, page 181 
 
 Frying, page 142 
 
 Game, page 329 
 
 Garnishes in General, and 
 on Truffles and Mush- 
 rooms in particular, 
 page 128 
 
 Haddock, page, 209 
 
 Halibut, page 212 
 
 Hare, page 290 
 
 Herrings, page 212 
 
 Hors d'CEuvres or Side 
 Dishes, page 145 
 
 Lamb, page 259 
 
 Iiamprey, page 207 
 
 Lobsters, Crabs and Craw- 
 fish, and How to Boil 
 them, page 221 
 
 No. 
 596 
 S98 
 S99 
 69s 
 7<37 
 600 
 
 597 
 
 601 
 
 S9S 
 8 
 
 873 
 162 
 189 
 220 
 97 
 98 
 215 
 437 
 438 
 436 
 43S 
 
INDEX. 
 
 453 
 
 No. 
 Bemarks on Mackerel, page 
 
 Mullets, Bed and Grey, 
 page 202 
 
 Mashrooms, page 381 
 
 Mutton, Lamb,' and Goat, 
 page 207 
 
 New Zealand Mutton and 
 American Beef, page 8 
 
 Onions, page 382 
 
 Paste and Sweet Dishes, 
 page 387 
 
 Perch, page 229 
 
 Pike or Jack, page 225 
 
 Plaice, Flounders, &c., 
 page 213 
 
 Pork, page 271 
 
 Poultry, page 296 
 
 Babbit, page 294 
 
 Bice, page 61 
 
 Boasting, page 241 
 
 Salad, page 383 
 
 Salmon, page 182 
 
 Sandwiches, page 384 
 
 Sausages, page 174 
 
 Smelts, page zi8 
 
 Soles, page 197 
 
 Sprats, page 220 
 
 Sturgeon, page 191 
 
 Tripe, page 156 
 
 Trout, page 223 
 
 Turbot, page 186 
 
 Veal, page 248 
 
 Vegetables, page 356 
 
 Venison, page 284 
 
 Whitebait, page 219 
 
 Whiting, page 204 
 Bemoulade Sauce , . . 222 
 lEice, Boiled, for Stewed Fruit 848 
 
 and Cabbage Soup . 103 
 
 Cake 808 
 
 Cream Soup i, la Chasseur 118 
 h, la Beale Soup . .116 
 
 and Chesnut Soup . . 124 
 
 Flour Soup . . . 146 
 
 d. la Frangaise Soup . . 117 
 
 au Gratin Soup . . . 120 
 
 with Milk Soup. . . 122 
 
 Panada .... 266 
 Pheasant Soup . . 119 
 Plain Broth . . 102 
 Potatoe Soup . . 104 
 Pudding . . .82s 
 Bemarks on, page 61 
 
 Souffle of. . . .837 
 
 'Bice, Vegetable Soup 
 Bisotto El la Chasseur 
 Genoa Style 
 Italian Style , 
 
 Another 
 Housewife Style 
 Milanaise . 
 k la Pi^montaise 
 & la Poniastowsky 
 h, la Portnguaise 
 Spanish Style . 
 h la Turque 
 Bissoles of Chicken . 
 Boast Chicken . 
 Cygnet 
 Duck. 
 
 Wild . 
 Eels, Conger 
 Goose 
 Grouse 
 Guinea-Fowl 
 Hare . 
 
 Lamb, Quarter of 
 Larks 
 Mutton, Leg of. 
 
 Loin of 
 
 Saddle of . 
 
 Shoulder of. 
 Partridges . 
 Pheasants . 
 Pigeons 
 
 Wild . 
 Plovers 
 Pork, Leg of 
 
 Loin of 
 ■ Keck of 
 Quails 
 Rabbit 
 Boebuck . 
 Snipe. . . 
 Sturgeon . 
 Sucking Pig 
 Teal . 
 Turkey Naiwlitaiue 
 
 PiSmontaise 
 
 Stuffed, with Truffles 
 Veal . 
 Water-Hen 
 Wheatears 
 Widgeons . 
 Woodcocks 
 Robert Sauce . 
 Boebuck, Brain of . . 
 Breast of, Lyonnaise . 
 Outlets of, Chasseur. 
 
454 
 
 index: 
 
 No. 
 Boebuck, Cutlets of, Surprise . 57^ 
 Chops of, Grilled . . S79 
 Fry of , . . .582 
 Haricot of, , . . 581 
 Haunch of, Lsirded . . 587 
 Roast .... 586 
 Loin of, or Saddle k I'Ecos- 
 
 saise , . . 585 
 
 Eoly-Poly Pudding . . 827 
 
 Romaine Sfbuce . . . 209 
 
 Soup ^ la . . . .56 
 
 Rossini, Soup k la . . .59 
 
 Rump-Steak k la Chasseur . 515 
 
 Anchovy Butter . 517 
 
 with Oyster Sauce . 516 
 
 ' SADDLE of Mutton, Eoast 552 
 
 Sago Soup .... 142 
 
 Salad, Beef . . . .386 
 
 Dressing of all Descri. - 
 
 tion . . . 785 
 
 of tomatoes . , . . 785 
 
 Remarks on, page 383 
 
 Salmi of Partridges . . . 667 
 
 Pheasants .... 661 
 
 Teal 686 
 
 Water-Hen . . . 682 
 
 Widgeon . . . .686 
 
 Wild Duck . . .684 
 
 Salmis Sauce .... 199 
 
 Salmon, Broiled, Tartare Sauce 393 
 
 Croquets .... 39,5 
 
 Cutlets k I'lndienne . . 3^4 
 
 Genoise Sauce . . . 392 
 
 Hollandaise Sauce . . 390 
 
 - Lobster Sauce . . . 390 
 
 Mayonnaise Sauce . . 396 
 
 Melted Butter . . .' 390 
 
 Pickled .... 397 
 
 Remarks on, page 182 
 
 Shrimp Sauce . . . 390 
 
 Smoked, on Toast . . 787 
 
 k la Venitienne . . 391 
 
 Salpicon k la Chasseur . . . 312 
 
 h la Financi^re . . .310 
 
 h, ritalienne . . . 307 
 
 of Lobster or Crab . . 314 
 
 k la Monglas . . . 315 
 
 of Oysters .... 313 
 
 & la Palerme . , . 308 
 
 k la Royale . . . 309 
 
 k la Toulouse . . . 311 
 
 k la Valenoienne . . 316 
 
 Salt Cod with Brown Butter . 411 
 
 with Egg Sauce . .411 
 
 Salt Cod Maltre d'H6tel 
 
 Melted Butter 
 Sandwiches, Beef . 
 
 Chicken . 
 
 Ham . . 
 
 Ox-Tongue 
 
 Remarks on, page 384 
 Sardines on Toast . 
 Sauce^ AUemande . 
 
 Apple 
 
 Bichamel , 
 Another 
 
 Blanquette 
 
 Butter 
 
 Butter and Ketchup 
 
 Butter; for Asparagus 
 
 Bread 
 
 Caper 
 
 Cucumber . 
 
 Devilled . 
 
 Egg . . 
 
 Bspagnole . 
 Another 
 
 Fennel 
 
 Financiire , 
 
 Genoise 
 
 Gherkin . 
 
 Gooseberry 
 
 Hare . ; 
 
 Hollandaise 
 
 Horse-Badish 
 Cold . 
 
 Indian 
 
 Italian - . 
 Sharp . 
 
 Maltre d'Hfitel 
 
 Mayonnaise 
 Another 
 Ravigote 
 
 Mint . 
 
 Mushroom 
 
 Mustard . 
 
 Nap'olitaine 
 
 Onion 
 
 Oyster 
 
 Poulette . . 
 
 Ravigote . 
 
 Red Currant Jelly 
 
 Remoulade 
 
 Robert 
 Romaine 
 
 Salmi 
 Shrimp 
 Sicilian 
 Supreme 
 
INDEX. 
 
 455 
 
 No. 
 
 Sauce, Tartare .... 
 
 221 
 
 Tomato .... 
 
 217 
 
 Truffle .... 
 
 198 
 
 Uxellee, D' . . . 
 
 19s 
 
 Velout^ .... 
 
 IS3 
 
 Venison .... 
 
 196 
 
 Venitienne 
 
 206 
 
 Victoria .... 
 
 214 
 
 White 
 
 158 
 
 Sauerkraut .... 
 
 297 
 
 French .... 
 
 298 
 
 Sausages, Citizen Style . 
 
 377 
 
 How to Make . 
 
 376 
 
 Remarks on, page 174 
 
 
 Savarin Cake .... 
 
 800 
 
 Savoy Cake .... 
 
 796 
 
 Scollops of Beef with Chesnut 
 
 
 Pur^e. 
 
 S14 
 
 Veal, Fried 
 
 523 
 
 h, la Genoise 
 
 334 
 
 with Mushrooms 
 
 526 
 
 Sea Kale, Butter Sauce . 
 
 757 
 
 Semolina Panada 
 
 267 
 
 Padding .... 
 
 817 
 
 Soup 
 
 14s 
 
 Sheep's Feet with Oil and 
 
 
 Vinegar 
 
 3S4 
 
 Head Broth 
 
 80 
 
 Kidneys k la Chasseur 
 
 347 
 
 GriUed 
 
 34S 
 
 Stewed with Fine 
 
 
 Herbs . 
 
 345 
 
 Tongue, Gherkin Sauce . 
 
 320 
 
 k la Napolitaine 
 
 3S3 
 
 with Spinach 
 
 3SI 
 
 Short Paste for Eaised Pies . 
 
 790 
 
 Sponge and Biscuits . 
 
 S07 
 
 Tagliatelli . 
 
 9S 
 
 Tarts .... 
 
 791 
 
 Shoulder of Mutton, Boast 
 
 SS2 
 
 Shrimp Sauce .... 
 
 188 
 
 Sicilian Sauce .... 
 
 211 
 
 Skate with Brown Butter 
 
 416 
 
 h, la Genoise 
 
 417 
 
 i. la HoUandaise 
 
 41B 
 
 Small Birds, Pudding of . 
 
 704 
 
 Smelts, Fried .... 
 
 471 
 
 au Gratiu .... 
 
 471 
 
 Remarks on, page 218 
 
 
 Smoked Haddock . 
 
 458 
 
 Citizen Style 
 
 -4S9 
 
 Herring .... 
 
 789 
 
 Salmon, on Toast 
 
 787 
 
 Snail Broth, for Obstinate Cough 149 
 
 Snipe, Pie of . 
 
 69S 
 
 
 No. 
 
 Snipe, Roast 
 
 674 
 
 Salmi of . . . 
 
 67s 
 
 Soles, Boiled . 
 
 424 
 
 a la Colbert 
 
 426 
 
 au Gratin . 
 
 428 
 
 Fried 
 
 42s 
 
 Fine Herbs 
 
 427 
 
 Fillets of, k la Livournaise 
 
 430 
 
 k la Venitienne . 
 
 432 
 
 k la Normaude . 
 
 438 
 
 with Parsley 
 
 431 
 
 k la Proveusale . 
 
 420 
 
 Remarks on, page 197 
 
 
 with White Wine . 
 
 434 
 
 Sorrel, Purie of 
 
 238 
 
 Soup, Clear 
 
 44 
 
 Thick. 
 
 45 
 
 Soubise PurSe 
 
 229 
 
 Souffl^ Cheese 
 
 836 
 
 Chocolate . . . . 
 
 833 
 
 Coffee 
 
 83s 
 
 Omelet . . . . 
 
 832 
 
 Rice .... 
 
 837 
 
 Vanilla . 
 
 834 
 
 Soup Artoia 
 
 62 
 
 Asparagus, Clear 
 
 33 
 
 Beef-Tea . 
 
 148 
 
 Beer and Wine . 
 
 128 
 
 Bread and Raspings . 
 
 140 
 
 Brunoise . 
 
 17 
 
 Cabbage . 
 
 34 
 
 Milanaise . 
 
 55 
 
 and Rice . 
 
 103 
 
 Calf's Tail, Indian . 
 
 133 
 
 Chantilly . 
 
 49 
 
 Clermont . 
 
 47 
 
 Cock a Leekie . 
 
 13s 
 
 , Cond§ 
 
 23 
 
 Dawn 
 
 77 
 
 Egg .... 
 
 60 
 
 Poached Styrienne 13 
 
 I, 132 
 
 Endive 
 
 46 
 
 Gnochetti with Butter 
 
 99 
 
 Goose Giblet 
 
 130 
 
 Gravy 
 
 5 
 
 Hare, English Style . 
 
 68 
 
 Hare, Susinoise. 
 
 67 
 
 Jelly, Simple . 
 
 150 
 
 Julienne . 
 
 14 
 
 Leek .... 
 
 38 
 
 Lettuce 
 
 • 42 
 
 Stuffed 
 
 • 43 
 
 Lombardo . 
 
 ■ 58 
 
 Macaroni, see Macaroni. 
 
 
 Manor-House . 
 
 . 39 
 
4S6 
 
 Soup, Minestrone 
 Mock-Turtle 
 Modena 
 Navarin 
 New Carrots 
 Onion Lyonnaise 
 
 Maigre 
 Ox-Tail . 
 Oyster 
 Pap ^ la Beine 
 
 Simple 
 Faste . 
 Pea, Green 
 Pearl Barley 
 Polish 
 Polonaise , 
 Potato Flour 
 
 S^iss . 
 Pur^e of Crayfish 
 
 Bisque of 
 Pnr^e of Chicken ' 
 
 Crecy . 
 
 Frog . 
 
 Game . 
 
 Green Peas . 
 
 Lentils 
 
 Patatoes and Chervil 
 
 h la Beine . 
 
 Turnips 
 
 White Beans 
 Quenelles of Chicken 
 
 of Game 
 
 German 
 
 of Potatoes . 
 
 h, la Beine . 
 
 of Bice 
 
 of Vegetables 
 
 d, la Venitienne • 
 Bice, tee Bice and Bisotto 
 h la Bomaine 
 h la Bossini 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Semolina . 
 
 Sheep's Head 
 
 Sorrel, Clear 
 Thick . 
 - Spring 
 
 Stock, Family 
 
 Sturgeon . 
 
 Tapioca 
 
 Tripe Milanaise 
 
 Turnips 
 
 Velouti . 
 
 Venitienne 
 Spanish Cake , 
 
 No. 
 
 io6 
 65 
 S4 
 63 
 41 
 78 
 
 79 
 
 66 
 127 
 139 
 138 
 147 
 
 40 
 126 
 
 22 
 
 134 
 144 
 
 76 
 
 123 
 64 
 28 
 24 
 64 
 50 
 
 S2 
 48 
 61 
 
 37 
 S3 
 72 
 72 
 74 
 71 
 7S 
 69 
 
 70 
 73 
 
 56 
 
 59 
 
 142 
 
 14s 
 80 
 
 44 
 
 4S 
 
 IS 
 
 3 
 
 129 
 
 143 
 
 ss 
 36 
 
 141 
 
 S7 
 804 
 
 Spinach with Batter 
 
 Cream 
 Housewife Style 
 k, ritalienne 
 i, la Proven9ale 
 Furie of . 
 Sprats, Broiled 
 Citizen Style 
 Fried . 
 au Gratin , 
 Bemarks on, page 220 
 Spring Soup 
 
 Stewed Carp, English Style 
 Chickens k, la Africaine 
 
 k la Chasseur 
 
 Housewife Style 
 
 i, la Marengo 
 
 with Mushrooms 
 Mussels 
 
 k la Pi^montaise 
 
 k la Frovenf ale . 
 
 with Bisotto 
 
 k la Sicilienne . 
 Duck with Green Peas 
 Duck with Turnips , 
 Eels, English Style . 
 Fruit, Apples . 
 
 Apricots . . 
 
 Cherries 
 
 French, Dried Plums 
 
 with Bice , 
 
 Mirabel Plums . 
 
 Pears . 
 
 Plums . 
 Goose with Chesnuts 
 
 Tamatoes . 
 Mackerel , 
 
 Mutton Cutlets with Mush- 
 rooms , 
 Mutton Cutlets with Peas 
 Onions 
 
 Partridges with Cabbage 
 Peas with Ham .-^ 
 Pigeons with Green Peas 
 
 Mushrooms . 
 Babbit 
 Sheep's Kidneys with Fine 
 
 Herbs . 
 Veal, Country Style . 
 
 Another 
 Kidneys k la Bomaine 
 
 with Bice , 
 Stock, Family . 
 
 for Gravy and Sauces 
 Ordinary . 
 
INDEX. 
 
 45 7 
 
 No. 
 
 Strawberry Cream, Bavarois . 865 
 
 Crenmlce .... 873 
 
 Jelly 858 
 
 Sturgeon & I'Auglaise . , 413 
 
 au Gratin , , , 415 
 Bemarks on, page 191 
 
 Soast, Larded . . . 414 
 
 & la YeDitienne . . . 412 
 
 Soup 129 
 
 Sucking Kg, Itallenne . . 569 
 
 h la Proven9ale . . 568 
 
 Boast .... 567 
 
 Supreme Sfiuce . . , 188 
 
 Sweetbread, Mode of Preparing, 
 page 150 
 
 Syrup, Clarified, for Jellies and 
 
 Ices 856 
 
 TAGLIATELLI ^la Chas- 
 seur ... 96 
 it la 6enoi>: . . 9601 
 Housewife Style . . 95 
 Paste, Ordinary . 95 
 
 Tapioca Pudding , , . 824 
 Soup . . . .143 
 
 Tartare Sauce .... 221 
 
 Tarts, Apple . . . .810 
 
 of Fruit in General . . 8ii 
 
 Teal, Koast . . . .683 
 Salmi of . . .686 
 
 Tench . . . . . 499 
 
 Tomatoes, Grilled . . . 7S0 
 
 Purfee .... 228 
 
 Salad 785 
 
 Sauce .... 217 
 
 Stuffed, Proven9ale . . 779 
 
 Tongue, Fresh Ox, Gherkin 
 
 Sauce . . . 366 
 
 Pickled Ox, Madeira Sauce 361 
 
 Sandwiches . . 786 
 
 Sheep's, Gherkin Sauce . 352 
 
 £ la Napolitaine . . 353 
 
 with Spinach . . 351 
 
 Tripe, Citizen Style . 340 
 
 Fried 344 
 
 k ritalienne . . 339 
 
 i la Lyonnaise . . . 34^ 
 
 i, la Milanaise . . . 337 
 
 and Onion . . 34^ 
 
 Another . . 343 
 Eemarks on, page 156 
 
 & la Bomaine . . . 338 
 
 Soup il la Milanaise . . 55 
 
 Trout & I'Aurore . . . 481 
 
 Broiled, Hollandaise Sauce 482 
 
 No. 
 
 Trout k ritalienne . . . 479 
 
 h, la Meuniire . . . 480 
 
 Bemarks on, page 223 
 
 Truffles, Butter . . .166 
 
 in Champagne . . . 300 
 
 Kssence of , , . . 170 
 
 Glaze .... 299 
 
 Madeira . . . 300 
 
 Sherry . . . 300 
 
 Sauce .... 198 
 
 Turbot, Coquilles of, . . 402 
 
 an Gratin .... 401 
 
 Croquets .... 402 
 
 Fillets of, i I'Indienne . 399 
 
 k I'ltalienne . . 400 
 
 Hollandaise Sauce . . 398 
 
 Mayonnaise of, • . . 402 
 
 Bemarks on, page 186 
 
 Turkey, Boiled, with Celery 
 
 Sauce . . . 646 
 
 with Oyster Sauce . 647 
 
 Braized & I'ltalienne . . 644 
 
 la Jardiniere . . 645 
 
 Galantine of . . . 706 
 
 Giblets of. Housewife Style 651 
 
 Boast k la Kopolitaine . 649 
 
 Pi^montaise . . 648 
 
 Stuffed, with Truffles 650 
 
 Turnips with Gravy . . . 739 
 
 as a Garnish . . . 2S4 
 
 Mashed . . . .741 
 
 Purde .... 23s 
 
 Soup .... 37 
 
 k la Savoisienne . . 740 
 
 Clear Soup ... 36 
 
 UXELLES, D' 
 
 Sauce 
 
 • 195 
 
 • 19s 
 
 . 871 
 
 VANILLA Cream Ice 
 Souffle ... 
 
 Veal, Blanquette of, . . 524 
 Boiled, Minced^ with Poached 
 
 Eggs . . .387 
 
 k la Napolitaine . . 388 
 
 Braized Italienne . . 519 
 
 Housewife Style . 518 
 
 Breast of. Citizen Style . 536 
 
 with Stuffing, Boast . S3S 
 
 Broth ... . . 6 
 
 Cushion of. Braized k la 
 
 Jardiniere . . S^S 
 Braized, with Glazed 
 
 Onion . . 525 
 
 it la Mac^doine . 522 
 
4S8 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 No. 
 
 No. 
 
 Veal, Cushion of, Braized, with 
 
 
 Vegetable Marrow 4 I'ltali- 
 
 
 New Carrots 
 
 525 
 
 enne 
 
 75° 
 
 Spinach 
 
 525 
 
 Pur^e of . . . 
 
 230 
 
 Stewed Mash- 
 
 
 Remarks on, page 356 
 
 
 • rooms 
 
 525 
 
 Velont^ Sauce .... 
 
 IS3 
 
 , ' Peas" . 
 
 525 
 
 Soup . . . . 
 
 141 
 
 StuSed Tomatoes 
 
 525 
 
 Venison, Hashed . 
 
 S88 
 
 .s aiaToulonao 
 
 525 
 
 Jugged .... 
 
 S84 
 rgo* 
 
 with white Harico 
 
 
 Sance . . . . 
 
 ■ Beans . 
 
 S2S 
 
 Remarks on, page 284 
 
 
 Outlets, Broiled 
 
 S3I 
 
 Venetian Sauce 
 
 206" 
 
 with Tomato Sauce . 
 
 532 
 
 Soup 
 
 57 
 
 Ham . 
 
 528 
 
 Victoria Cake .... 
 
 794 
 
 A I'ltalienne 
 
 53° 
 
 Sauce . . . . 
 
 214 
 
 k, la Milanaise . 
 
 529 
 
 
 
 en Ptipillote ' 
 
 531 
 
 
 
 with Pur^e of Sorrel . 
 
 527 
 
 WATKB-HEN, Eoast 
 
 683 
 
 and Ham, Galantine of, 
 
 705 
 
 Salmi of .' . 
 
 687 
 
 and Ham Pie ... 
 
 690 
 
 Wheatears, Roast . 
 
 682 
 
 Forcemeat of . . . 
 
 270 
 
 "Whitebait . . 
 
 742 
 
 Another 
 
 270a 
 
 Remarks on, page 219 
 
 
 Kidneys, Broiled k lln- 
 
 
 "WTiite Sauce . . . 
 
 158 
 
 , dienne . 
 
 349 
 
 "WTiiting, Boiled 
 
 441 
 
 Stewed t, la Bomaine . 
 
 348 
 
 Broiled .... 
 
 442 
 
 Remarks on, page 248 
 
 
 Fillets of. Citizen Style . 
 
 44S 
 
 Boast .... 
 
 S34 
 
 i, I'ltalienne 
 
 443 
 
 Stewed, Country Style 
 
 520 
 
 si la Venitienne . 
 
 444 
 
 Another 
 
 S2I* 
 
 Fried 
 
 440 
 
 with Bice . 
 
 522 
 
 ;■ Remarks on, page 204 
 
 
 Vegetable Broth 
 
 30 
 
 yidgeon, Housewife Style 
 
 585 
 
 Another . . . . 
 
 31 
 
 Roast . . . . 
 
 683 
 
 Marrow, Butter Sauce 
 
 748 
 
 Salmiof . . . . 
 
 686 
 
 Housewife Style . 
 
 749 
 
 "Woodcock, Boast . 
 
 676 
 
 PRINTED BY BALLANTYNE, HANSON AND CO. 
 EDINBURGH AND LONDON. 
 
^ 
 
 ■"xry^C.^